THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 DAVIS 
 
 GIFT OF 
 JIM HUNT 
 
THE TECHNO-CHEMICAL 
 
 EECEIPT BOOK: 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 SEVERAL THOUSAND RECEIPTS, COVERING THE LATEST, MOST 
 
 IMPORTANT AND MOST USEFUL DISCOVERIES IN CHEMICAL 
 
 TECHNOLOGY, AND THEIR PRACTICAL APPLICATION 
 
 IN THE ARTS AND THE INDUSTRIES. 
 
 EDITED CHIEFLY FROM THE GERMAN 
 
 OF 
 
 DRS, WINCKLER, ELSNER, HEINTZE, MIERZINSKI, 
 JACOBSEN, KOLLER AND HEINZERLING. 
 
 WITH ADDITIONS BY 
 
 WILLIAM T. BRANNT, 
 
 Graduate of the Royal Agricultural College of Eldena, Prussia, 
 AND 
 
 WILLIAM H. WAHL, PH.D. (HEID.), 
 
 Secretary of the Frankliu Institute, Philadelphia; author of ' ; Gaivanopiastic Mauipulationa." 
 
 Jllustrateb bg Seuents-eigljt 
 
 PHILADELPHIA ; 
 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO., 
 
 INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHERS, BOOKSELLERS AND IMPORTERS, 
 
 810 WALNUT STREET. 
 
 LONDON: 
 SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE & RIVINGTON, 
 
 CROWN BUILDINGS, 188 FLEET STREET. 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORtftf 
 DAVIS 
 

 
 
 
 Copyright by HENRY CAREY BAIRD & Co., 1886, 
 
 FerpnHon Bros. & Co.. 
 
 Electrotypers, 
 15 N. Seventh Street, 
 
 Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 PHILADKLPHIA: 
 COLLINS, PRINTER, 705 JAYNE STREET. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 THE principal aim in preparing THE TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT 
 BOOK has been to give an accurate and compendious collection of ap- 
 proved receipts and processes of practical application in the industries, 
 and for general purposes. The work is essentially what it claims to be 
 a receipt book ; and all theoretical reasoning and historical detail have 
 been omitted. Popular and simple descriptions have, wherever possible, 
 been preferred to technical and scientific language. The materials have 
 been principally derived from German technical literature, which is 
 especially rich in receipts and processes which are to be relied on ; most 
 of them having been practically tested by competent men before being 
 given to the public. 
 
 In the laborious task of translation and compilation only the best and 
 latest authorities have been resorted to, and innumerable volumes and 
 journals consulted, and wherever different processes of apparently equal 
 value for attaining the same end have been found, more than one has 
 been introduced. Every care has been taken to select the best receipts 
 of each kind, and we are confident that there are few persons, no matter 
 in what business or trade they may be engaged, who will not here find 
 something of use and benefit to them. 
 
 In regard to the use of the receipts, the observance of the following 
 rules is recommended : 1. Be careful to use the exact proportions pre- 
 scribed. 2. Always experiment first with small quantities. 3. Should 
 the first attempt prove unsuccessful, do not condemn the receipt, but 
 make another trial, as the fault can generally be traced to a mistake in 
 the manipulation or an error in the quantities. 
 
 The alphabetical arrangement adopted and a very copious table of 
 contents, as well as index, will render reference to any subject or special 
 receipt prompt and easy. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA, June 10th, 1886. 
 
 (iii) 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 ADULTERATIONS, IMITATIONS, ETC. How TO DETECT THEM : 
 Olive oil ; Animal charcoal ; Determination of percentage of oil in seeda 1 
 Vinegar, the substances with which it can be adulterated ; Simple pro- 
 
 cess of distinguishing genuine gilding and silvering from imitations ; 
 
 Milk adulterations; Adulteration of wax with tallow .... 2 
 To test dyes for adulterations ; To detect alum in red wine ; Simple 
 
 method for distinguishing genuine butter from artificial ; Crock's method 3 
 ALLOYS : 
 Alloys for teapots ; Oroide ; Britannia metal ; Alloys for taking impres- 
 
 sions of coins, medals, wood-cuts, etc. ; Chrysorine ; Prince's metal ; 
 
 Pinchbeck ; Robertson's alloy for filling teeth ; Aluminium alloys . 3 
 Aluminium bronzes; Aluminium alloy for soldering aluminium; Sil- 
 
 ver and aluminium alloys ; Gold and aluminium ; Zinc and alumini- 
 
 um ; Tin and aluminium ; Bismuth and platinum ; Lead and alumini- 
 
 um ; Iron and aluminium . ......... 4 
 
 Tissier, Debray, and Roger on iron aluminium alloys ; American sleigh- 
 
 bells; Platinum bronze; White metal; Alloys resembling silver; 
 
 Nickel alloys ; Alloy of Christofle and Bouilhet ; Lutecine, or Paris 
 
 metal ; A new and very fusible alloy; Wood's metal ; Alloy of Lipowitz 5 
 Type metal; Alloy for music printing plates; S pence's metal; New al- 
 
 loys for journal-boxes ; Alloys for dental purposes ; Manganese bronze 6 
 Unalterable alloy; Chinese and Japanese bronzes; Bronze for objects 
 
 of art ; Chinese silver ; Composition for metal stop-cocks which deposits 
 
 no verdigris; Alloy for anti-friction brasses; Fenton's alloy for axle- 
 
 boxes for locomotives and wagons ; English copper alloys; Brass; Brass 
 
 for turned articles ........... 7 
 
 Red bronze for turned articles ; Bronzes for castings ; Coin metal; Metals 
 
 for gongs and bells; Bell metals; Bronze for cocks; Statuary bronze; 
 
 Bronzes for medals, rivets, and ornaments ; New alloy resembling gold ; 
 
 Alloy resembling silver ; Alloy for imitation gold and silver wires ; 
 
 Minargent ; Composition of some alloys ...... 8 
 
 ARTIFICIAL GEMS, PEARLS, AND TURKISH BEADS: 
 
 Jesem's glass-melting furnace ; Schrader's fluxes ..... 9 
 
 Donault-Wieland's flux ; " Strass ; " Ruby ; Splittgerber's receipt for ruby 
 glass ; Sapphire ; Emerald ; Chrysoprase ...... 10 
 
 Opal; Beryl, or aqua-marine; Hyacinth; Garnet; Tourmaline; Topaz 
 and Chrysolite ; Amethyst ; Lapis Lazuli ; Agate . . . .11 
 
 Schrader's and Wagner's processes for producing artificial gems ; Color- 
 
 ing substances ; Artificial Pearls, Geissler's process ; Turkish beads . 12 
 BITTERS, CORDIALS, ELIXIRS, LIQUEURS, RATAFIAS AND ESSENCES; 
 EXTRACTS, TINCTURES, AND WATERS USED IN THEIR MANUFACT- 
 URE, AND THE MANNER OF COLORING THEM : 
 
 Mode of coloring cordials, liqueurs, etc. ; Coloring substances . . .12 
 Essences, extracts, tinctures, and waters; Absinthe tincture; Ambergris 
 essence ; Angelica essence ; Anise-seed essence and extract ; Anise-seed 
 tincture; Aromatic tincture; Barbadoes essence; Bergamot essence; 
 Bitter almond essences .......... 13 
 
 Bitter essences ; Bitter extract for Griinewald bitters ; Calamus tinctures ; 
 
 (v) 
 
v CONTENTS. 
 
 Caraway essence (Cumin essence); Cardamon extracts; Cherry ex- 
 tract; Cherry water; Chocolate essence; Cinnamon essence; Clove 
 essence; Coffee essence; Cognac essence; English bitters essence; 
 Fennel essence ; Gold water essence ....... 14 
 
 Herb cordial essence ; Juniper berry essences; Lavender essence ; Lemon 
 essence; Mace extract; Marjoram essence ; Musk essence; Nut essence; 
 Nutmeg essence; Orange-blossom extract; Orange-blossom water; 
 Orange juice; Orange peel extract; Parfait d'Amour essence; Peach 
 essences ............. 15 
 
 Peppermint essences; Quince essence; Raspberry extracts; Raspberry 
 water; Rose essence; Rose water; Rosemary essence; Sage essence; 
 Spanish bitters essence; Strawberry extract; Strengthening tincture; 
 Vanilla essence; Vanilla water and tincture; Wormwood essence; 
 Elixir 16 
 
 Angel elixir; Elixir de St. Aur; Elixir-Colombat: Elixir of life; Elixir 
 Monpou; Elixir des Troubadours; Elixir vital; Juniper elixir; Ta- 
 bpurey elixir; Bitters, cordials, liqueurs and ratafias; Anise-seed cor- 
 dials; Anisette cordial ; French anisette 17 
 
 Holland anisette; Angelica cordial; Aqua Bianca; Aqua reale; Aqua- 
 Turco liqueur; Aromatic cordial; Ambergris water; Berlin bitters; 
 Bitter Rosso! i; Breslau bitter cordial 18 
 
 Calamus liqueur; Cardinal water; Cardinal de Rome; Carminative cor- 
 dial ; Capuchin cordial; Chartreuse; Cherry liqueur; Cherry cordial 19 
 
 Chocolate liqueur; Christofle; Citronelle; Crambambuli; Danzig cram- 
 bambuli ; Cumin cord.ial (Ku'mmel); Cumin liqueur; Curacoa; French 
 and Holland curacoa; Eau Americaine 20 
 
 Baud' Amour; Eaud'Argent; Eau d'Ardelle ; Eau d'Absy nth Citron ne; 
 Eau de Cypre; Eau de Dauphin; Eau de Napoleon; Eaud'Orient; 
 Eau d'Or (Gold water) 21 
 
 Eau de Paradise ; Eau des Princesses ; Eau Precieuse ; Eau royale; Eau 
 de Sante; Eau de Sept Graines; English bitters; Greek bitters; Ham- 
 burg bitters; Juniper liqueur ........ 22 
 
 Koch's herb extract; Maraschino; Mogador; Nectar; Orange peel cor- 
 dial; Parfait d'Amour; Peach cordial; Peppermint cordials; Polish 
 water; Polish whiskey ; Quince cordial (Quittico); Rosemary cordial 23 
 
 Rossolio de Turin; Rostopschin; Scubac; Soya aqua vitse; Spanish bit- 
 ters ; Stettin bitters ; Stomach bitters 24 
 
 Vienna stomach bitters ; Swiss cordial; Thiem's bitters ; Tivoli cordial; 
 Trappistine ; Vanilla cordial ; Veritable extrait d'absinthe ; Vienna bit- 
 ters ; Wormwood cordial ; Ratafias ; Barbadoes ratafia . . .25 
 
 Cocoa ratafia; Citronat-ratafia ; Claret ratafia; English bitters ratafia; 
 Fennel ratafia; Ginger ratafia; Ratafia Chinoise (Chinese liqueur); 
 Ratafia de Grenoble ; Mulberry ratafia ; Orange ratafia ; Apple ratafia ; 
 Pear ratafia; Stomachic ratafia 26 
 
 Celery, Scotch, Vanilla and Wormwood ratafias 27 
 
 BLASTING COMPOUNDS, BLASTING POWDER, DYNAMITE, GUN-COTTON, 
 GUNPOWDER. NITRO-GLYCERINE, FULMINATES, ETC. : 
 
 Nitro-glycerine; Mowbray's process of manufacturing nitro-glycerine . 27 
 
 R. Bottger's process of manufacturing nitro-glycerine; Dynamite and 
 various formulae of making cellulose dynamite; Lithofracteur ; Ditt- 
 mar's dualin ; New dynamite by Anthoine & Genaud ; Carboazotine . 29 
 
 Brise-rocs; Pudrolith ; Pyrolith ; Trets' blasting powder; Frozen dyna- 
 mite ; Augendre's white powder ; Hafenegger's gun and blasting powder 30 
 
 Dr. Borlinetto's gunpowder; Sharp & Smith's patent gunpowder; 
 Spence's powder for cannon of large calibre; Non-explosive powder; 
 Green's blasting powder; Giant dynamite; Blasting compound from 
 potato-starch 31 
 
 Martinsen's new blasting powder ; To protect blasting agents containing 
 
CONTENTS. -v\ 
 
 nitroglycerine and ammonium nitrate from moisture, and to prevent 
 the exudation of the nitro-glycerine ; Giant powder; Faure & French's 
 Blasting compound; Gun-cotton; New blasting compounds; Peralite; 
 Jaline; New blasting compound from a combination of honey and glyc- 
 erine 32 
 
 Preparation of blasting compounds by directly nitrating crude tar oils; 
 Gelatinous nitro-glycerine ; " Forcite ; " Cartridge shells of easily com- 
 bustible substances ; Fulminate of mercury ; Fulminate of silver; Ful- 
 minating platinum 33 
 
 Fulminating gold 34 
 
 BLEACHING: 
 
 New method of bleaching cotton yarns, tissues, etc. ; Cleansing of cotton 
 and other vegetable fibres ; To bleach cotton goods with woven borders ; 
 To bleach muslin; Frohnheiser's method of bleaching cotton; To 
 bleach cotton goods ; Cotton, bleaching 34 
 
 Bleaching of woollen tissues 35 
 
 To keep woollen goods white ; To bleach wool without sulphur ; To make 
 wool bleached without sulphur beautifully white; Bleaching of silk; 
 Hartmann's quick method of bleaching flax yarn . . . .36 
 
 To bleach sponges; To bleach and harden tallow; To bleach bristles; 
 To bleach copper plate engravings, wood-cuts, etc. ; To bleach shellac 37 
 
 To bleach straw; David's new process of bleaching ...... 38 
 
 To bleach stained marble 39 
 
 BOILER INCRUSTATIONS : 
 
 Receipts to prevent and remove boiler incrustations . . . .39 
 
 Alfieri's receipt; Baudet's preventive ; Rogers' preventives . . .40 
 BONE, HORN AND IVORY To BLEACH AND DYE THEM, AND MAKE 
 IMITATIONS AND COMPOSITIONS: 
 
 To bleach bone and ivory; To bleach bones; Hedinger's method of 
 bleaching bones for turners' use ; Peineman's process of bleaching ivory 
 turned yellow ; To make ivory soft and flexible 40 
 
 New process of bleaching ivory and bones; Dyeing of bone and ivory; 
 Receipts for different colors 41 
 
 To produce black and colored drawings upon ivory 42 
 
 Artificial ivory; Artificial ivory for photographic purposes; New arti- 
 ficial ivory ; To bleach ivory articles fastened upon leather, etc. ; Com- 
 pound for buttons, dice, doniinos, etc. ; A. new method of treating horn; 
 To dye horn to resemble tortoise shell 43 
 
 Buttons from waste of horn 44 
 
 BRONZING AND COLORING OF METALS: 
 
 Green bronzes for brass ; Chinese bronze ; Bronzing process used in the 
 Paris Mint; Oxidized silver ; Antique green 44 
 
 Fire-proof bronze upon copper and brass; Commercial bronzes; Bronze 
 for plaster-of-Paris figures; Bronze powders; Copper-colored bronze 
 powder ; Moire metallique 45 
 
 Black bronze for brass (R. Wagner) ; Walker's chemical bronze ; Blue 
 bronze ; Brown bronze ; Gold bronze of great lustre on iron ; Steel blue 
 on brass; Black on brass; Red copper-bronze on white sheet tin and 
 tinned articles; To give copper a durable lustre; New method of col- 
 oring metals 46 
 
 Graham's bronzing liquids for brass ....... 47 
 
 Graham's bronzing liquids for copper and zinc ; Dead-black on brass in- 
 struments; Substitute for gum-Arabic in manufacturing bronze colors; 
 
 Preservation of bronze monuments 48 
 
 BUILDING MATERIALS, ARTIFICIAL BUILDING STONE, MORTARS, ETC. : 
 
 Various formulae for artificial stone ; Artificial building stone; Artificial 
 building stone prepared with cork; Artificial stone from quartz sand 
 and plumbic oxide; E. Schaffer's artificial stone (Elizabeth, N. J.) ; E, 
 
viii CONTENTS. 
 
 E. Westermeyer's artificial stone (Chicago, 111.) ; F. Coignet's (Paris) ; A. 
 Quesnot's (Bloomington, 111.) 49 
 
 Artificial stones of J. Scbellinger, New York ; Of J. Ordway, Jamaica 
 Plains, New York ; Of S. Sorel, of Paris ; Of Adolph Ott, New York ; 
 " Victoria stone " (Highton's process) ; Eansome's artificial stone ; 
 Apcenite 50 
 
 Frear's artificial stone ; Building stones, pipes, etc. ; Artificial mill- 
 stones ; Grindstones; New plastic water-proof grindstones ; To imitate 
 variegated marble; A. Garvey's, of Memphis, Tenn., "lithornarlite;" 
 Artificial marble ; Cement from blast furnace slag . . . .51 
 
 Very hard and durable cement; To manufacture cement from blast fur- 
 nace slag; To prepare white cement; To prepare artificial cement; To 
 harden cement, lime, and similar materials; Oil cement paint for felt 
 roofing ; Requisites for good mortar 52 
 
 Hydraulic mortar from lime and alum shale ; Bitumen mortar ; Hydraulic 
 mortar; Water-proof mortar; To prepare clay plaster; Plaster for 
 damp walls; Treatment of asphaltum for paving purposes; Marble- 
 izing sandstone 53 
 
 To make sandstone and other porous stones tough and impermeable ; To 
 repair worn-down sandstone steps ; Concrete marble ; To make wood 
 almost incombustible ; To dry damp walls; Lyons asphaltum . . 54 
 
 To make glass roofs water-tight; To preserve wood; Bricks, size and 
 
 weight of; Making brick masonry impervious to water . . .55 
 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE: 
 
 Machines required for manufacture of chocolate 55 
 
 Receipts for ordinary and spiced chocolate 56 
 
 Receipts for fine Spanish spiced, for Vienna, Paris, Milan, Hygienic, and 
 Iceland moss chocolates; Chocolate with meat extract; Iron chocolate; 
 Chocolate with carbonate of iron ; Racahout des Arabes; Dr. Koeben's 
 nourishing and healing powder 57 
 
 Vakaka indorurn ; Palamaud or Palmgrne or allataim du harem ; white 
 
 chocolate 58 
 
 CELLULOID, CAOUTCHOUC, GUTTA-PERCHA, AND SIMILAR COMPOSITIONS : 
 
 Preparation of celluloid; Treatment of pyroxyline in the manufacture 
 or plastic masses ........... 58 
 
 How to work and treat celluloid; New celluloid; Manufacture of rubber 
 stamps 59 
 
 To soften rubber hose after it has become hard ; Metalized caoutchouc ; To 
 remove stickiness from the surface of dried caoutchouc ; Cement for vul- 
 canized caoutchouc ; Utilization of vulcanized caoutchouc waste ; Gutta- 
 percha composition; To color caoutchouc and gutta-percha black or 
 green ; Solution of gutta-percha for shoemakers ; Caoutchouc com- 
 positions for sharpening and polishing knives, etc. . . . . 60 
 
 Caoutchouc cements for glass ; Cement for rubber shoes and boots ; Gutta- 
 percha cements for glass, leather, and rubber combs; Elastic gutta- 
 percha and linseed oil cement ; Gutta-percha cement for horses' hoofs ; 
 Substitute for caoutchouc 61 
 
 Substitute for gutta-percha ; Compositions for ornaments, busts, toys, etc. ; 
 and for rollers of wringers and washing machines ; Asbestos and rubber 
 packing; Composition for billiard balls; and for picture frames; A 
 masses for toys, vessels, etc., and for dolls' heads ... . 62 
 
 Marmorin ; New mass for hollow articles ; Papier mache from flour ; 
 Fine pasteboard mass for moulding large figures ; Composition for razor 
 
 strops 63 
 
 CEMENTS, PASTES, AND PUTTIES: 
 
 To cement iron to iron ; Mastic cement ; Cement for steam-pipes, for glass 
 retorts, and for porcelain ; Water and fireproof cement for metal, por- 
 celain, and earthenware 63 
 
CONTENTS. i* 
 
 Cements for fastening metal letters upon glass, marble, wood, etc. ; Cement 
 for fastening iron articles in stone ; Cement for stone troughs and wooden 
 vats; Cement for repairing articles of sandstone; Davy's universal 
 cement; Cements for joining leather driving belts, for fastening rubber 
 upon metal, for aquaria, and for repairing defective places in castings. 64 
 
 Cement for leather; Glycerine cement ; Cement for petroleum lamps, for 
 tortoise shell, for ivory and bone; Caseine cements; Chinese blood 
 cement ; Blood and ash cement ........ 65 
 
 Jewellers' cement; Armenian glue; Cement for quickly closing leaky 
 places in barrels; Cement for iron stoves; To prepare liquid glue; 
 Liquid glue ; Glues for labels, for fancy articles, fine leather goods, etc. ; 
 Water-proof glue for wooden utensils; Glue for ivory and bone ; Glue 
 for joining glass to wood ; Diamond glue of the best quality . . 66 
 
 Chromium glue; Mouth glues; Lime putty and French putty for wood; 
 Powdered wood, oil, and glue putties ; Putty for floors of soft wood ; 
 Putty for floors which are to be scrubbed, and for floors which are 
 to be lacquered . . . . ....... 67 
 
 Paste for wall-paper; Paste for microscopic objects; Glycerine glue for 
 microscopic preparations; Paste for postage stamps; Sugar and lime 
 paste; Fluid paste; Dry pocket paste; Good cements for filling teeth. 68 
 
 Cement for injured trees ; German tree wax and grafting wax ; Durable 
 paste ; Paste for fixing printed labels on machines ; Safety pastes for 
 
 post-office packages 69 
 
 CHEMICAL AND TECHNO CHEMICAL EXPEDIENTS, PREPARATIONS: 
 
 Johnson's process and apparatus for manufacturing potassium ferro- 
 eyanide; Phosphorescent (illuminating) powder; To thaw frozen 
 ground 70 
 
 Artificial sandstone for filtering ; To prepare tincture of litmus ; New 
 method of extracting tannin 71 
 
 Process and apparatus for purifying water with a mixture of caustic mag- 
 nesia or carbonate of magnesia and saw-dust; Caustic potash; Caustic 
 soda; Pure chlorine gas; Chloride of zinc ...... 72 
 
 Chloride of gold ; To prepare pure oxalic acid ; To prepare purified oleic 
 acid; Cream of tartar; Lunar caustic; Pure acetic acid ; Sulphocyanic 
 acid ; Molybdic acid from molybdenum di-sulphide . . . .73 
 
 Potassium acetate; To prepare sulphate of copper; Liver of sulphur; 
 Schiel's apparatus for testing the percentage of nicotine in tobacco; 
 Wilson's process of preparing glycerine; To restore faded manuscripts. 74 
 CLEANSING, POLISHING, AND RENOVATING AGENTS: 
 
 To remove ink stains from wood; Ink and rust stains from clothes ; Mil- 
 dew, wine, or fruit stains from silk or linen ; Tar, grease, oil, and var- 
 nish from silk; Ink stains from silk; To remove wax from velvet; 
 Grease stains from paper; Scouring water for removing grease stains; 
 Le Francois scouring fluid ; "Gantein" for cleansing gloves . . 75 
 
 To cleanse glasses and saucers; Longet's polishing powder for gold 
 workers; To cleanse glass vessels; To cleanse manilla indigo; Toclennse 
 files ; To cleanse paint brushes from dried-in paint ; To cleanse steel and 
 iron from rust; To cleanse barrels ; Polishing powder for glass and metal; 
 To cleanse straw_ hats ; Scouring soaps 76 
 
 To purify bisulphide of carbon ; Polishing powder for plate glass, mir- 
 rors, etc. ; Polishing rags and polislung paste for metals ; Wabeck's pol- 
 ishing wax ; Fine jewellers' rouge ; To remove stains from books; To 
 free paper from fatty substances .... .... 77 
 
 To cleanse gloves without wetting them ; To cleanse tea and coffee trays, 
 marble busts, alabaster, and precious stones 1 ; To cleanse and beautify 
 old oak furniture; To cleanse brass and silver; Polishing powder for 
 silverware, gold, etc. ; Magnus' patent polish for slate . . . .78 
 
i CONTENTS. 
 
 COLORED CHALKS, CRAYONS, PENCILS, AND INKS FOR MARKING LINEN, 
 ETC.: 
 
 Blue chalks ; Colored crayons; Pencils for writing on glass, and for mark- 
 ing linen; Marking-ink for linen ........ 79 
 
 New marking ink; Colored indelible inks ; Blue stamp color . . 80 
 CONFECTIONERY : 
 
 To prepare elaeosaccharum, or oil sugar ; Malt and orange sugars ; Pec- 
 toral troches 80 
 
 Pectoral, raspberry, carrot, cream, and malt bonbons; Cream walnuts; 
 To prepare bonbons of caramel sugar with soft filling ; Sweetmeats 
 (conserves) ; Chocolate and orange sweetmeats 81 
 
 Orange blossom, rose, jasmine, carnation, vanilla, filbert, heliotrope, 
 angelica, lemon, cinnamon, cherry, peppermint, and love sweetmeats . 82 
 
 Sweet smelling and violet sweetmeats ; Medicinal sweetmeats : Spoon- 
 wort, water cress, antiscorbutic sweetmeats ; Crenie du cafe ; Creme du 
 chocolade ; Coated filberts ; Boasted almonds and filberts ; Coated 
 chestnuts ; Candied cherries 83 
 
 Glazed almonds; Coated orange blossoms; Candied oranges; Peppermint 
 drops; Punch drops; Lozenges: Spice for lozenges; Chinese, lemon, 
 peppermint, ginger, and stomachic lozenges ; Cherry marmalade . 84 
 
 Tceland moss, isinglass, gelatine, buckhorn, sago, tapioca, and Irish 
 moss jellies; Ground mass for crenie (Creme fondant); Red color for 
 sweetmeats, jellies, etc. ; Innoxious green color for candies ; Receipts for 
 preparing bandoline or Fixateur ; baking powder .... 85 
 COPYING AND PRINTING: 
 
 A new method of copying engravings, drawings, and designs; Gelatin- 
 ography : A cheap, quick, and simple process of duplicating drawings 
 by means of the printing press; Autographic method of printing; To 
 duplicate writings and drawings ; Printing in colors . . . .86 
 
 To copy drawings in black lines on white ground; Cyanotype (blue 
 prints); Almography; Poly graphic method 87 
 
 Jacobsen's callograph; The hektograph ; Edison's electric pen; The 
 
 cyclostyle . 88 
 
 DAMASKEENING STEEL: 
 
 Genuine daruask ; Imitation of damask ; Damaskeening with gold or silver. 89 
 DECORATION, ORNAMENTATION, ETC.: 
 
 To gild glass 89 
 
 Gold for illuminating ; To gild porcelain ; To gild an ornamental frame ; 
 Applying the first coat; Preparation of gilding size; Applying the 
 gilding size 90 
 
 Bright lustre; Dead lustre; Silvering; Silvering with a dead lustre; To 
 silver wooden figures with bismuth; To gild and silver visiting cards; 
 To gild or silver morocco paper; To gild cotton; Gilding and silvering 
 on parchment and paper; Italian method of gilding wood . . .91 
 
 Burot's process of silvering and gilding silk, cotton, and woollen yarns; 
 To make glass opaque or frosted; Ornamenting metal surfaces; Au- 
 briat's new process of decorating glass 92 
 
 Artificial wood for ornamental purposes; Use of wood tar for architect- 
 ural decorations; To produce ornaments from wood mass . . .93 
 
 To fasten leather ornaments, etc., upon metal ; To decorate tin with cop- 
 per plates and lithographs ; Impressions of flowers on glass . . .94 
 DENTIFRICES AND MOUTH WASHES: 
 
 American tooth powder; Asiatic dentifrices ; Cartwright's tooth powder ; 
 Deschamp's alkaline and acid tooth powders 94 
 
 Charcoal, Circassian, red, Hufeland's tooth powder; Paris tooth powder; 
 Mouth wash for strengthening the teeth and gums ; Mouth wash against 
 toothache; Antiseptic mouth paste ; Kolbe's mouth wash ; Hager's red 
 tooth powder and tooth paste ; Quillaya dentifrice . . . .95 
 
CONTENTS. xi 
 
 DYEING WOOLLEN AND COTTON GOODS AND YARNS, SILK, STRAW 
 HATS, FELT HATS, KID GLOVES, HORSEHAIR, ETC. MORDANTS: 
 
 Cleansing old silk to be dyed 95 
 
 Dyeino 1 silks of various colors; To dye woollen goods and yarns; Dark 
 blue . 96 
 
 Blue (dark fugitive color) ; Gens d'Armes blue on loose wool, yarns, and 
 piece goods ; Various shades of brown ; Brown (sanders wood, fast) ; 
 Chamois 97 
 
 Various shades of gray ; Green : Olive and brownish olive ; Lilac ; Or- 
 ange ; Yellows 98 
 
 Cotton goods and yarns : To dye black, chocolate-brown, chamois, crim- 
 son ; Gold color (cotton for fringes, etc.) ; Silver-gray ; Dark green . 99 
 
 Mineral green; Yellow; Chrome-yellow; To dye wool, silk, and cotton 
 with aniline colors: Fuchsine on wool; Fuchsiue on silk (bluish 
 shade) ; Fuchsine on cotton ; Eosine on wool 100 
 
 Eosine on silk ; Eosine on cotton ; Scarlet and erythrosine on wool ; Violet 
 on wool; Violet on silk; Aniline blue (blue, light blue, and soluble 
 blue) ; On wool and silk; On cotton; Alkali blue; For 100 pounds of 
 wool ; Light blue on cotton 101 
 
 China blue on cotton; Dahlia and primula; Methyl-violet; Methyl and 
 emerald-green; Wool, silk, and cotton; Woollen yarn; Malachite 
 green 102 
 
 Napthaline colors (ponceau, orange, and Bordeaux) on woollen yarn and 
 piece goods; Composition of tin ; To dye silk and cotton with naptha- 
 line colors ; Acetate of alumina fre? from lead ; To dye felt hats with 
 aniline colors; To dye felted fabrics with aniline colors ... 103 
 
 To dye mother-of-pearl with aniline colors ; To dye straw and straw hats, 
 black, chestnut-brown, silver-gray, and violet; To dye kid gloves; Mo- 
 rocco-red ; Gray 104 
 
 To dye kid gloves orange-yellow ; To dye horsehair black, blue, brown, 
 and red; To dye imitation corals; Animalizing of hemp, jute, etc. ; 
 Mordants : Olivier's mixtures as substitutes for tartar in dyeing wool ; 
 Huilard's substitute for tartar in dyeing wool black; Mordant for dark 
 red on cottons ; Mordant for light red on cottons 105 
 
 Mordants for scarlet, light scarlet, crimson, rose-red, fiery red, purple, and 
 violet on cottons ; Manner of preparing the mordants; Use of metallic 
 sulphides as mordants in dyeing cottons with aniline colors; Practical 
 directions for dyeing cotton yarn Turkey-red with alizarine . . 106 
 
 To prepare the so-called Turkey-red oil ; English alizarin oil (Patent oil) ; 
 
 A new dye 107 
 
 ELECTRO-PLATING, GALVANOPLASTY, GILDING, NICKELLING, SILVER- 
 ING, TINNING, ETC. : 
 
 Nickel plating _. .107 
 
 Improvement in nickel plating (E. Weston, Newark, N. J.) ; Martin and 
 Delamotte's process of nickel plating ; Latest improvements in nickel 
 plating (Powell, of Cincinnati, O.) 108 
 
 Receipts for ordinary nickel baths; American nickelling; Bath for iron, 
 cast-iron, and steel ; Bath for brass, copper, tin, Britannia metal, lead, 
 zinc, and tinned sheet metal; Latest Anglo-American nickelling . . 109 
 
 Preparation of the metals to be nickelled ; To nickel iron without the use 
 of electricity ; Doumesnil's process of platinizing metal . . . 110 
 
 Platinizing of metals ; To electroplate metals with cobalt; Plating with 
 aluminium; Gilding copper by boiling Ill 
 
 To impart a more brilliant gold color to gilded or gold-plated articles; 
 To silver articles of Bessemer steel; Adrielle's process of silvering 
 metals; Piffard's galvanoplastic silvering; Silvering tincture; Cold 
 silvering of copper' ........... 112 
 
 New process of making silvered telescopic mirrors; New process for sil- 
 
xii CONTENTS. 
 
 vering iron and steel (Pierre de Villiers, St. Leonards, England) ; Tin- 
 ning of east-iron ........... 113 
 
 To tin cooking utensils ; Cold tinning; New process of galvanizing iron; 
 Gourlier's salt mixtures for galvanic coppering, bronzing, etc. ; Coating 
 of brass; Bronzing wrought and cast-iron; To coat wire with brass . 114 
 
 Coppering bath for wrought and cast-iron or steel articles; Simple fire- 
 plating for iron; Method and apparatus for preparing paper matrices 
 for stereotype plates; Composition for moulds for galvanoplastic de- 
 posits; Elastic moulds for galvanoplastic copies in very high relief . 115 
 ENAMELS AND ENAMELLING : 
 
 To enamel cast-iron utensils 115 
 
 Enamel for sheet-iron vessels; To enamel iron ; To enamel copper cook- 
 ing utensils; Process of enamelling cast-iron; To enamel and cement 
 metals and other substances 116 
 
 Enamel for watch dials; Colored enamels; Preparation of fluxes; Blue, 
 brown, reddish-brown, Vandyke-brown, yellow, orange, green, dark red, 
 pale red, and black enamels . ' 117 
 
 Very beautiful black enamel for inlaying and ground; Black enamel 
 for painting and mixing with other colors ; Opaque white enamel ; 
 Glass enamel for iron; Niello ......... 118 
 
 FEATHERS, OSTRICH, MARABOUTS, ETC., HOW TO WASH, RESTORE AND 
 DYE: 
 
 Description of feathers, plumes, and marabouts 118 
 
 To wash feathers and marabouts ; To bleach feathers ; To restore crushed 
 and bent feathers ; To dye feathers ; To dye feathers black . . . 119 
 
 To dye feathers black, brown, and puce colors 120 
 
 To dye feathers blue; To dye with indigo red, Bleu de France, crimson, 
 and ruby-red; Rose-colors; Yellow; Garnet-brown; Gray . . . 121 
 
 Green; Chestnut-brown; Lilac; Orange; Ruby-red; Violet; To dye 
 feathers with aniline colors; Rose-color; Reddish-blue; Greenish-blue; 
 Genuine alkali (Nicholson's) blue; Green; Orange; Puce; Bronze 
 
 lustre 122 
 
 FIRE-EXTINGUISHING AGENTS AND MEANS OF MAKING TISSUES, WOOD, 
 ETC., INCOMBUSTIBLE: 
 
 Munich fire-extinguishing powder; Vienna fire-extinguishing powder; 
 Fluids for making tissues incombustible ; To make tissues incombusti- 
 ble (Prize process of J. A. Martin, Paris, France) 123 
 
 For all light tissues ; For painted decorations and wood ; For coarse linen, 
 ropes, straw, and wood ; Cartridges for extinguishing fire ; To make 
 paper incombustible ; To make theatre scenes, wood, etc., incombusti- 
 ble; Bucher's fire-extinguishing powder; Hand-grenades . . . 124 
 FIREWORKS : 
 
 Bengal lights 124 
 
 Quick matches; White fire; Mohr's white fire; White fire for theatres ; 
 Greenish-white fire; Bluish-white fire 125 
 
 Red fire; Braunschweiger's red fire; Holtz's red fire ; Red fire mixtures; 
 Purple fire; Rose-red light ; Red-orange fire; Dark-violet, pale-violet, 
 and blue fires 126 
 
 Dark -blue and pale-blue fires ; Blue fire with a bluish-green flame ; Green 
 fire; Green fire according to Braunschweiger ; Other receipts for green 
 fire ; Pale-green fire ; Dark-green fire ; Yellow fire ; Other colored fire- 
 works ; White, red, green, and blue stars 127 
 
 Bluish-green, yellowish-green, and yellow stars ; White, red, green, blue, 
 bluish-green, and yellow candles; Japanese matches; Prof. Bottger's 
 imitation of Japanese matches ; Fireworks for use in rooms according 
 to Perron ; Pharaoh's serpents 128 
 
 Harmless substitute for Pharaoh's serpents 129 
 
CONTENTS. xiii 
 
 FOOD AND FOOD PREPARATIONS : 
 
 Soup extract ; Meat flour ; Pressed feed for horses ; Strengthening foods 
 known as " Dictamia " and " Palamoud ; " Soup tablets ; Stilton cheese 
 as prepared in England ; Honey from beets and carrots . . . 129 
 
 To prepare potato flour for soups ; Meat biscuit ; Apparatus and method 
 for preparing a substitute for coffee ; Bread for horse-feed ; Pudding 
 powders (vanilla); Almond and chocolate puddings; Manufacture of 
 artificial butter 130 
 
 Margarine ; Mege's process for oleomargarine 131 
 
 Other processes for oleomargarine ; Tables of the composition of the best- 
 known milk foods for children ; Condensed milk ; Infants' food . . 132 
 
 Receipts for Vienna economical butters ; Ambrosia; Hydroleine . . 133 
 FREEZING MIXTURES : 
 
 Freezing salt ; Other mixtures 133 
 
 FRUIT AND OTHER SYRUPS: 
 
 American syrups for mineral waters and lemonades ; Receipts for lemon 
 syrups; Mulberry, vanilla, vanilla cream, and cream syrups; Ginger, 
 pineapple, strawberry, peach, raspberry, currant, cherry, and orange 
 syrups; Sherbet, nectar, coffee, and wintergreen syrups . . . 134 
 
 Maple syrup ; Chocolate syrups ; White or red wine syrup ; Coffee cream 
 syrup ; Solferino syrup ; Ambrosia syrup ; Orgeat syrup ; Milk punch 
 syrup; Champagne syrup ; Sherry cobbler syrup ; Orange-flower syrup; 
 Cinnamon syrup; Ginger beer syrup; How to clarify sugar syrups; 
 Marshmallow, balsam, and barberry syrups 135 
 
 Blackberry, lemon, camomile, manna, rhubarb, saffron, senna, Seneca 
 root, licorice, violet, cinnamon, egg, and cochineal syrups; Syrup of 
 
 ferrous nitrate 136 
 
 FUEL AND HEATING. HEAT INSULATION (NON-CONDUCTING COVER- 
 INGS) : 
 
 Necker's kindling compound ; Economical fuel ; Fuel from coal and 
 rosin ; King's patent fuel ; Coal-dust fuel (Loiseau's patent) ; Blair's 
 patent fuel ; Infusorial earth for insulating steam-pipes ; Heat-insulating 
 
 coverings for steam-pipes, etc 137 
 
 FUSIBLE COLORS USED IN PORCELAIN PAINTING : 
 
 Brianchon's peculiar process of painting glass, porcelain, etc.; Preparing 
 the flux ; Ador and Abbadie's zinciferous metallic colors; Solution of 
 zinc salt 137 
 
 Bronze color; Chamois color (leather yellow); Gray, green, rose-red, 
 golden yellow, Roman yellow, and yellowish-green colors; Other 
 colors ; Black (cobalt and manganese) ; Black (iridium) ; Black (re- 
 fractory) ; Blue (azure) ; Blue (dark) ; Blue (shading) ; Blue (Turk- 
 ish) ; Bluish-green 138 
 
 Bluish-red ; Brown (Bistre) ; Brown (dark) ; Brown (pale) ; Brown 
 (sepia) ; Brownish-red ; Chamois ; Flesh color ; Gray (chrome) ; Gray 
 (iridium); Green (dark) ; Green (grass) ; Green (shading) . . . 139 
 
 Lustre colors ; Gold ; Orange-red ; Orange ; Prismatic colors ; Purple 
 (dark); Purple (pale) 140 
 
 Purple (rose-red) ; Yellow (dark) ; Yellow (lemon color) ; Yellow (pale) ; 
 Yellow (uranium) ; Yellowish-red ; Yellow for figures and landscapes; 
 
 Yellow for landscapes ; White (covering) 141 
 
 GLASS. COMPOSITION OF THE VARIOUS KINDS OF, COLORS FOR, AND 
 PROCESSES FOR ENAMELLING, ENGRAVING, GILDING, SILVERING, 
 PULVERIZING, FILING, BENDING, ETC. : 
 
 Dark-green bottle glass 141 
 
 Jahkel's glass for champagne bottles ; Elli's cryolite glass ; Bohemian 
 crystal glass (free from lead) ; Plate glass of the mirror manufactory at 
 Aix la Chapelle ; French mirror glass ; Belgian, Bohemian, English, 
 French, and Prussian window glass ; Stein's receipts for compositions 
 
xiv CONTENTS. 
 
 of glass as actually used in various glass works ; Potash crystal glass; 
 Bohemian mirror glass ; Bohemian chalk glass (ground glass, white 
 concave glass) ; Bohemian window glass ; French mirror glass ; French 
 soda glass 142 
 
 White soda window glass ; Semi-white potash window glass ; Bottle glass j 
 Lead crystal glass; Crown glass (Bontemp); Crown glass (Guinaud) ; 
 Flint glass ; Flint glass (Bontemp) ; Compositions for strass (according 
 toDo;,c,ult-Wieland) , 143 
 
 Compositions for opaque glass ; Tin enamel ; Arsenical enamel ; Bone 
 glass; Opal glass; Alabaster glass; Compositions for colored glass; 
 Aventurine glass (according to Clemandot); Blue glass; Sapphire- 
 blue; Azure-blue; Golden topaz glass ; Green glass .... 144 
 
 Hyalite glass; Orange glass; Red glass; Red with copper; Red with 
 gold ; Turquoise glass ; Violet glass ; Yellow glass ; New combination 
 of materials for the production of glass; Iridescent glass; Engraving 
 on glass ; Colored designs upon glass ; Glass engraving . . . 145 
 
 To pulverize glass ; To bend glass tubes 146 
 
 GLAZES FOR EARTHENWARE : 
 
 Glazing for common earthenware ; English glaze for earthenware ; Glazes 
 free from lead for earthenware ; New glazing free from lead for kitchen 
 utensils; Very fine composition for white glaze (Feilmer's, of Berlin). 146 
 
 White glazes ; To give earthenware or porcelain a marbled or granite ap- 
 pearance 147 
 
 GLASS AND OTHER SIGNS: 
 
 To etch glass (fine and coarse grained) ; Gilding glass .... 147 
 
 Silvering on glass ; Gilding on show windows ; Correcting the isinglass 
 mixture; Backing the inscription on show windows; Backing glass 
 signs without shades ; Backing glass signs with shades ; With mother- 
 of-pearl insertions ; Mother-of-pearl insertions ; Backing with tin-foil ; 
 Transparent glass sign (Child's American patent) ; Sign-painting . . 148 
 
 Japan gold size 149 
 
 GLUE, MANUFACTURE OF: 
 
 The raw material ; Steeping the stock in lime 149 
 
 Glue boiling ; Boiling with wet waste ; Boiling with dry waste . . 150 
 
 Clarifying the glue ; To color the glue yellow ; To whiten the glue ; Pour- 
 ing into the boxes (moulds) . . . 151 
 
 Taking the glue from the moulds; Ruthay's new process of making glue 
 from waste of hides and skins in tanneries ; Glue from waste of tanned 
 leather 152 
 
 Maclagan's apparatus and process for manufacturing glue and gelatine ; 
 Extracting the gelatine 153 
 
 To make gelatine from glue; Liquid steam-glue; Heller's steam-glue; 
 Cold liquid glue; To prepare excellent glue which will hold in water; 
 Good furniture glue ; Glue for books ; Glue resisting wet and moisture ; 
 New liquid glue ; Bone glue 154 
 
 Dupasquier's process of preparing bone glue as a substitute for isinglass ; 
 Selecting and bleaching the bones ; Comminuting the bones ; Immers- 
 ing the comminuted bones in hydrochloric acid 155 
 
 Bleaching ; Pouring the gelatine into moulds ; Isinglass (fish glue) ; 
 
 Printers' rollers from glue and glycerine; Birdlime .... 156 
 HOUSEHOLD AND RURAL ECONOMY: 
 
 How to construct a table fountain ; Pine leaves or " needles " as a sub- 
 stitute for hair, feathers, etc. ; To keep milk from souring ; Mass for 
 artificial flowers and fruits; Simple process for preparing potato flour; *" 
 Roasted malt as a substitute for coffee; Lemonade powder; Cham- 
 pagne powder ; Champagne mixture 157 
 
 Currant champagne; English champagne; Fruit champagne; Fruit 
 wines ; Apple wine (cider, English process; Cider (Normandy process) ; 
 
CONTENTS. xv 
 
 Apple champagne (champagne cider) ; Birch wine ; Blackberry wine . 158 
 
 Cherry, currant, damson, elderberry, ginger, honey, and orange wines; 
 Orange wine with lemon ; Raisin wine 159 
 
 Raspberry wine ; Remedy for warts ; Remedy for chilblains ; Remedy for 
 corns ; Ginger beer ; English ginger beer ; Spruce beer ; English spruce 
 beer; Root beer 160 
 
 To prepare fly paper ; Fly paper free from poison ; Persian insect powder ; 
 To destroy insects and worms infesting wall paper, etc. ; To preserve 
 animal skins; To preserve stuffed animals; To destroy insects infesting 
 herbaria and collections of insects ; To protect woollen goods and furs; 
 Hager's mixtures for preserving cloth and furs 161 
 
 Receipts for destroying moths; For the destruction of bed-bugs and other 
 insects ; For the "destruction of fleas on dogs, horses, and cattle ; To de- 
 stroy cockroaches, mosquitoes, and gnats ; To drive away ants from 
 closets, etc. ; To drive rats away from a building; Phosphorous paste 
 for destroying rats and mice; To destroy field-rats and mice; London 
 purple for the destruction of insects (Prof. C. V. Riley) ; Hager's uni- 
 versal composition for the destruction of vermin . . . . .162 
 
 For the destruction of phylloxera (vine grub) ; Simple disinfectant; Dis- 
 infecting powder of Max Friedrich 163 
 
 Efficacious disinfectants; To cleanse lacquered and stained articles of 
 wood ; To cut and pierce rubber corks ; To protect stone and brick walls 
 from moisture ; Rosin as a protection against moisture in walls ; To pre- 
 vent rust on iron; To prevent wooden posts from rotting; Excellent 
 wash for wood and stone 164 
 
 Brilliant whitewash closely resembling paint ; Utilization of chicken 
 feathers ; Preservation of wooden labels ; Collodion for plant slips ; To 
 destroy stumps of trees ; To prepare beef tea 165 
 
 To disguise the taste of cod-liver oil ; Remedy for hoarseness ; Extract of 
 elder blossoms ; Belladonna ointment; Cantharides ointment ; Com- 
 pound chloride of sulphur ointment; Compound lead ointment; Creo- 
 sote ointment ; Elderberry ointment ; Elemi ointment; Gall-nut oint- 
 ment; Hemlock ointment; Iodide of lead ointment ; Iodide of mercury 
 ointment ; Iodide of potassium ointment ; Iodide of sulphur ointment ; 
 Lead ointments ; Litharge ointment ; Prussian lead ointment ; Saxon 
 lead ointment 16- 
 
 White lead ointment; Lead cerate ; Mercury ointment; Opium ointment ; 
 Pitch ointment ; Savin ointment ; Spermaceti ointment; Sulphur oint- 
 ments; Tar ointment; Tartar emetic ointment ; Zinc ointment ; Am- 
 monia liniment; Camphor liniment; Compound camphor liniment; 
 Lime liniment; Opium liniment; Soap liniment; Turpentine liniment ; 
 Verdigris liniment; Betton's celebrated cattle liniment (critical oil); 
 Turkish balsam for fresh wounds 167 
 
 To soften hard water ; To keep tallow and lard from becoming rancid ; To 
 purify rancid butter ; To purify rancid fat; Dougal's powder for puri- 
 fying the air in stables ; To remove foul air from wells ; To keep ice 
 without an ice-house 168 
 
 To keep fruits in ice-houses ; Substitute for coffee ; To preserve canvas, 
 cordage, etc. ; Stove-polishing compound ; Wiggen's process of purify- 
 ing lard and tallow; Manure salt from urine; Solution of guano for 
 flowers; Substitute for guano; Manure from coal ashes; Manure for 
 turnips, rutabagas, etc. ; Stockhard's manure mixture for vegetable 
 gardens ; Manure powder from blood ; Manure from waste animal sub- 
 stances 169 
 
 ILLUMINATING MATERIALS : 
 
 Incombustible wicks ; Metallic wicks ; Material for preparing incombus- 
 tible torches ; Gas from cork ; Naphtha ether, a new illuminating mate- 
 rial ; Air-tight and flexible tissue for dry gas-meters . . , . 170 
 
xvi CONTENTS. 
 
 To detect a leak in a gas-pipe ; Improvement in dry meters ; Apparatus 
 for manufacturing illuminating gas from ligroin and air by the cold 
 method; Purification of illuminating gas; Preparation of wicks for 
 stearine candles; "Melanyl" candles; To coat tallow candles with a 
 hard substance which will not crack 171 
 
 To color paraffine, wax, stearic acid, etc., black ; Coloring tallow ; June- 
 mann's process of producing white and hard tallow candles burning 
 with a large flame and consuming the wick 172 
 
 Fabrication of stearine candles without the use of presses and other ex- 
 pensive machinery ; New automatic gas lighter 173 
 
 IMITATIONS, SUBSTITUTES, ETC.: 
 
 Artificial leather for lithographers' rollers ; Vegetable ivory ; Substitute 
 for horn, hard rubber, ivory, etc. ; Vegetaline ; Substitute for linseed 
 oil and oil of turpentine in preparing paints ; Substitute for bristles; 
 Artificial chalk ; Artificial leather (X. Karchesky, Belleville, N. J.) . 174 
 
 Artificial leather (Stierlin's German and French patent) ; Artificial wool ; 
 Substitute for meerschaum, ivory, etc. ....... 175 
 
 Porous substance as a substitute for felt, for trays, for beer glasses ; Sub- 
 stitute for cast-iron, stone, clay, and cement; To make heels of boots 
 and shoes, buttons, etc., from pulverized leather; Hall's substitute for 
 leather; Preparation of leather cloth ; Micoud's artificial leather . . 176 
 
 Artificial slating for blackboards and school slates ; Artificial ebony ; 
 Leather, soap, and glue, from sea-weed (algae); Transparent sea-weed 
 leather; Opaque sea-weed leather ; Sea-weed soap ; Sea- weed glue, sub- 
 stitute for animal glue ; Artificial stone for sharpening lead and slate 
 pencils ; To convert ordinary agate into onyx 177 
 
 Substitute for opaque window glass (Chardon) ; Porous substance as a sub- 
 stitute for blotters; Flexible mirrors ; Artificial whalebone for umbrella 
 and parasol ribs, busks for corsets, etc. ; Buffalo skin as a substitute for 
 horn(Rohn); Substitute for tinfoil ; Zeiodelite; Imitations of mother- 
 of-pearl and marble with glue 178 
 
 Preparation of the plates, and of the glue solution; Imitation of mother- 
 of-pearl veneers 179 
 
 Pouring the colored glue solutions upon the plates ..... 180 
 
 Transferring the layer of glue to a layer of gelatine; Drying and detach- 
 ing the veneers ; To make gelatine foils 181 
 
 Sorel's substitutes for gutta-percha and caoutchouc ; To give a pearl lustre 
 to various articles; Substitute for slate; Bertolio's substitute for meer- 
 schaum 182 
 
 To prepare ratan to be used in the manufacture of corsets ; Composition 
 for cane heads, gun and pistol stocks, etc. ; Soren Sorensen's imitations 
 of leather; For soles, heels, and insoles ; Imitation of marble for plastic 
 ornaments and picture frames ; To dye hard-nut shell buttons, coal 
 black, and brown 183 
 
 To dye hard-nut shell buttons, dark brown, gray and fancy colors, olive 
 
 colors ; For coloring with aniline colors ; Blue, red, scarlet, and green . 184 
 INDIGO, INDIGOTINE, AND ALIZARINE : 
 
 Crystallized indigo ; Indigo carmine ; Acetate of indigo .... 184 
 
 Indigo- violet ; Indigo-carmine in the form of extract ; Kopp's process of 
 gaining indigotine and alizarine; The apparatus . . . . . 185 
 
 The operation ; Artificial alizarine ; Coloring artificial alizarine, dark red 
 and rose color 186 
 
 Inspissation for red ; Aluminium acetate ; Aluminium hydrate; Solution 
 of calcium acetate of 16 B. ; Printing colors for red and violet articles 
 by using a paste containing 10 per cent, of dry dye-stuff, very dark red ; 
 Aluminium nitrate; Another red without oil ; Violet printing color; 
 Violet inspissation; Geitner's alizarine liquor 187 
 
CONTENTS. xvii 
 
 INKS, LITHOGRAPHIC, PRINTING, AND WRITING : 
 
 To make a good printing ink 187 
 
 Description and illustration of apparatus for making printing ink . . 188 
 
 Receipts for printing inks 189 
 
 Printing ink from coal-tar; Thick printers' varnish with coal-tar varnish 
 oil ; Fine printers' ink with coal-tar varnish oil ; Black printing colors 
 patented in Germany ; New process of preparing printing inks ; Print- 
 ing and stamping ink containing iron; Bronze color for direct printing 
 upon paper, oil-cloth, etc. 190 
 
 Black printing ink which may also be used as etching ground ; Prepara- 
 tion of tannin black, and its use for printing ink and other purposes; 
 Lithographic inks 191 
 
 Autographic ink ; Lithographic printing ink ; English lithographic ink; 
 Writing inks 192 
 
 Indestructible inks according to Traille, P. A. Gaffard, of Paris, and Stark ; 
 Stark's patent copying ink; Bottger's copying ink .... 193 
 
 Solid inks (ink powders and ink stones) ; Karmarsch's black ink; Reid's 
 black ink; Lipowitz's process of preparing black ink; Brand's black 
 ink ; Booth's excellent black ink; Van Moos' good black ink ; Geiss- 
 ler's black ink ; Jah n's black ink ........ 194 
 
 Lewis' black ink ; lire's black ink ; Schmidt's ink for steel pens ; 
 Runge's ink for steel pens ; Haenle's ink which does not corrode steel 
 pens 195 
 
 English inks ; Duncan, Clockhart & Co.'s, of Edinburgh, celebrated 
 bluish-black inks; Ink for steel pens; Vanadium ink (Berzeli us' re- 
 ceipt) ; Alizarine ink ; Eisner's alizarine ink ; Dubell's alizarine ink . 196 
 
 Winternitz's alizarine inks; Receipt with oxalic acid; Copying inks; 
 Beau's French copying ink ; Black copying inks ..... 197 
 
 Alkaline copying ink ; Aniline inks of various colors ; Indestructible or 
 permanent inks; Indestructible inks according toBosse, Kindt, Bossin, 
 and Braconnot; Excellent blue ink 198 
 
 Red inks ; Carmine ink ; Winckler's durable red ink ; Violet inks ; Violet 
 copying and violet writing inks; Encre violette de Rouen; Solid inks 
 (cakes and powders) ; Platzer's ink powder ; Ink powder in capsules 
 (G. J. Colling Brooklyn, N. Y.) ; Ink cake 199 
 
 Marking ink ; Ink for writing on glass ; Indestructible ink for writing on 
 glass; Red and black ink, not acted upon by acids, for marking glass 
 and metal labels ; Stamping ink ; Sympathetic ink ; Incombustible ink 
 and paper; Indestructible ink for stamping cotton and woollen goods 
 which are to be bleached with chlorine; Changing writing executed 
 with pale ink immediately into black 200 
 
 Colored sands ; Brush for marking boxes, etc. ; Chemical test of written 
 
 documents (Wm. Thompson's, Manchester, Eng.) ; Printers' rollers . 201 
 JEWELLER'S FOILS: 
 
 Turnbull's blue foil; Green, red, and yellow foils; To prepare a'crimson 
 fluid for Dutch gold or paper ; Yellow fluid for foils; Green fluid for 
 
 Dutch gold; Process of producing cameos 202 
 
 LACQUERS AND VARNISHES: 
 
 Manufacture of fat copal varnish (Violette) 202 
 
 Illustrations of apparatus for manufacturing varnish .... 203 
 
 Spirit lacquers ; Iron lacquers ; Clarifying varnish ; Filtering varnishes . 205 
 
 Spirit gold-lac varnishes ; Gold-lac varnish with shellac and other resins; 
 Gold varnish without lac ; Gold-lac varnishes with oil of turpentine 
 and oil of lavender, with and without linseed-oil varnish . . . 206 
 
 Walton's process of preparing linseed-oil varnish ; Several universal fur- 
 niture varnishes ; Balloon varnish 207 
 
 Copal varnish with spirit of sal-ammoniac ; Chinese varnish ; Incombus- 
 tible varnish for wood; Varnish for wood not acted upon by boiling 
 2 
 
xviii CONTENTS. 
 
 water ; Varnish for earthenware vessels ; Japanese transparent lac var- 
 nish ; Japanese black lac varnishes ; Varnish for fans, fancy boxes, 
 etc. ; Varnish for umbrellas ; Black varnish for tinsmiths ; Gold var- 
 nish on iron ; Pitch varnish for buildings 20 
 
 Spirit varnish for violins and other musical instruments; Black var- 
 nish for zinc; Parisian wood varnish ; Furniture varnish ; To lacquer 
 flowers ; White unchangeable lacquer for leather ; To polish carved 
 work 209 
 
 French polish ; Parisian bronze lacquer; Black polish on iron and steel ; 
 A new varnish (German patent) ; Parisian bookbinders' lacquer ; Ex- 
 cellent glass-like varnish ; Varnish for wood naturally colored or 
 stained ; Colorless varnish ; French leather lacquer .... 210 
 
 Cheap lacquer for harness and carriage tops; Lacquer for drawings; 
 Transparent lacquer for closing bottles ; Tar varnish ; Polishing of 
 wood ; Elastic Jacquer; Black harness lacquer ; Parchment fluid ; To 
 provide bars of spring steel with a coating not acted upon by acids, 
 alkalis, chlorine, and steam; Aluminium palmitate and its uses in 
 different branches of industry 211 
 
 New method of preparing fat lacquer and varnish, patented in Germany 
 by Zimmermann and Holtzwich; Light copal varnish with coal-tar 
 varnish oil ; Light Parisian varnish with coal-tar varnish oil ; Light 
 varnish for lacquering photographic negatives ; English method of 
 varnishing coaches ; Pumicing 212 
 
 Puttying, saturating the panels with oil ; Laying on the ground ; Pumicing 
 the ground ; Laying on the paint; First, second, and third pumicings 
 of the paint ; Laying on the lac varnish ...... 213 
 
 .Polishing the lacquer; Ordinary body-carriage lacquer; Quick-drying 
 
 body copal varnish ; Neil's carriage lacquers 214 
 
 LEATHER, TANNING AND DYEING, INCLUDING FURS, ETC. : 
 
 New tanning process ; Quick tanning process ; Manufacture of calf-kid in 
 Philadelphia . 214 
 
 To depilate hides ; Curriers' black gloss ; Heating the liquor in tanning; 
 Heinzerling's quick method of tanning ....... 215 
 
 Boegel's process of quick tanning ; Jungschlager's process of quick tan- 
 ning ; New process of depilating hides ; To prepare transparent leather; 
 To preserve and water-proof skins . 216 
 
 To prepare calf leather with a white flesh-side smooth as a mirror ; To 
 preserve the yelks of eggs used in tawing glove leather ; To preserve 
 hair in a tannery ; To improve hides and skins ; Dyeing leather; Azure^ 
 on tawed white leather; Black on leather; Blue on leather; Red on 
 morocco ; Saffron-yellow on leather ; Dyeing of chamois skins ; Black, 
 green, gray, tan, yellow, and yellowish-brown ; Dyes for ordinary 
 tawed leather ; Blue, camel-brown, chestnut-brown . . . .217 
 
 Coffee-brown, flesh color, garnet, green, lilac, olive-green, orange, rose 
 color, soarlet, violet, and dark and pale yellow ; Dyes for kid leather, 
 azure, black, brown, English gray, French green 218 
 
 Gray, gray-brown, gray-green, gray stone color, green stone color, light 
 and dark green, olive and orange-brown, orange-red, pensee, or violet- 
 blue, silver gray, straw color; Apparatus and process for dyeing and 
 patterning animal skins ; To dye rabbit skins black ; To dye sheep skins 
 brown 219 
 
 Process of dyeing naturally white skins, or skins with naturally white 
 points, various shades of brown, leaving the points white ; Imitation of 
 sable skins; To protect furs against moths; To tan linen, hempen, and 
 cotton fabrics ; To give leather the smell of Russia leather . . . 220 
 LIQUORS AND BEVERAGES: BEER, BRANDY, GIN, WHISKEY, WINES, 
 ETC. : 
 
 Beer brewing; Fabrication of malt ; Steeping ; Germinating (couching) j 
 
CONTENTS. xlx 
 
 Kiln-drying ; Preparation of the liquor containing the dextrine and 
 sugar (mashing) . . . . 221 
 
 Boiling the wort with hops ; Cooling; Fermentation ; Improved brewing 
 process; New brewing process; Clarifying beer; Flaxseed pulp for clar- 
 ifying beer . 222 
 
 Brewers' pitch; Brown brewers' pitch ; Hop pitch; Glaze for beer bar- 
 rels; Glaze of Prof. Artetnus; Testing beer for foreign bitter sub- 
 stances; Pure beer 223 
 
 Acid mixtures; Petroleum-ether; Benzole; Chloroform; Ammoniacal 
 shakings; Beer wort; Wormwood; Benzole and chloroform; Marsh 
 rosemary (sedum palustre) ; Bog beau; Marsh trefoil; Quassia; Col- 
 chicum seeds ............ 224 
 
 Indian berries (cocculi Indici), petroleum ether, and benzole ; Colocynths ; 
 Willow bark; Strychnine ; Atropin ; Hyoscyamin ; Aloes . . . 225 
 
 Gentian root; Determination of glycerine in dark and light beers; Al- 
 cohol and compressed yeast from uncrushed cereals without the nse of 
 steam-pressure; To convert alcohol of 70 per cent, into !)( per cent, in 
 the cold way; To purify alcohol obtained from beets and molasses . 226 
 
 To purify alcohol ; To prepare absolute alcohol ; Manufacture of cognac; 
 Artificial cognacs ; Du'ch method of distilling and manufacture of 
 compressed (dry) yeast .......... 227 
 
 Mashing; Setting (Anstellen) 228 
 
 Clarifying the wash ; Receipt for Holland gin; Rum (Fagon rum); To 
 destroy fusil oil (amyl alcohol) 229 
 
 To purify alcohol and liquors ; To remove the taste of the barrel from 
 whiskey ; Wines; Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne; Artificial Cham- 
 pagnes; Champagne liqueur; Chandon et Moet (green seal); Louis' 
 Roderer (green and bronze seal) ; Heidesick et cie (sealed with tinfoil) . 230 
 
 LembergGeldermann etDeittz (sealed with tinfoil) ; Schneider; Fleur de 
 Sillery ; Jacquesson et fils; Madeira; Malaga; Essence de Goudron; 
 Port wine ; To improve wine must ; Remedy for ropiness or viscidity of 
 wines ; To remove the taste of the barrel from wine .... 231 
 LUBRICANTS FOR MACHINES, WAGONS, ETC. : 
 
 Adhesive grease for machine belts ; Grease for water-proofing leather . 231 
 
 To make kid leather soft ; Lubricant for industrial purposes ; Pulverulent 
 lubricant for axles, etc. ; Doulon's caoutchouc lubricant; Patent wagon- 
 grease from rosin oil soap ; Blue patent grease; Yellow patent grease; 
 Black patent grease; Patent palm-oil wagon grease; Lubricant from 
 paraffine residues ; Consistent machine oil 232 
 
 Lubricant for belts ; French's machine grease; Lubricant for car axles ; 
 Belgian wagon grease ; Excellent carriage grease ; Lubricant from oil 
 residues; Pyroleine (lubricant for machinery) ; Thinly fluid pyroleine ; 
 Thickly fluid pyroleine ' . . . .233 
 
 Metalline ; New lubricant for machines from sea-weed (solid and liquid); 
 Lubricating oil for astronomical instruments; Vulcan oil, foi; spindles, 
 for carding machines, for hydraulic motors; Machine oil from coal-tar 
 varnish oil ; Lubricant for carriages from coal-tar varnish oil ; Persoz's 
 patent wagon grease 234 
 
 Oil for watchmakers ; Very fine lubricant for clocks and watches ; To 
 
 test the fitness of oils for lubricating watches and clocks . . . 235 
 MARINE GLUE : 
 
 Hard marine glue ; Elastic marine glue ; Marine glue for damp walls . 235 
 MATCHES : 
 
 Swedish matches ; Striking surface of Swedish matches ; Matches with- 
 out sulphur; Inflammable compounds (Schwarz) ; Inflammable com- 
 pound without phosphorus ; Parlor matches ; Colored parlor matches . 23G 
 
 Anti-phosphorus matches; Matches inextinguishable by the wind; 
 Matches without phosphorus ; Amorces d'Allumettes ; Nickle's process 
 of preparing an amorphous phosphorus from the ordinary article . 237 
 
xx CONTENTS. 
 
 METAL INDUSTRY: 
 
 To harden cast-iron ; To give iron articles a brilliant lustre and silvery 
 appearance ; To restore burnt cast-steel ; To make steel so soft that it 
 can be worked like copper; Welding steel to cast-iron ; Hardening and 
 welding compounds; Hardening compound; Welding compound for 
 welding wrought-iron to wrought-iron ; Welding compound to weld 
 steel to wrought-iron at a red heat; To weld wrought-iron to wrought- 
 iron at a white heat 238 
 
 Hardening compound to make wrought-iron very hard ; Welding cast- 
 steel ; To harden files and other steel instruments ; To re-sharpen files . 239 
 
 Dr. Hartmann's hardening compound for thin steel ; New process of 
 hardening gun-barrels; To harden steel in sealing-wax; Hardening 
 water; Poncelet's fluids for hardening steel articles ; New case-harden- 
 ing compound ; To obtain smooth castings ; To harden saws and 
 springs ............. 240 
 
 To convert iron into steel (J. H. Wilson, of Liverpool) ; Hard silver ; Mal- 
 leable brass ; Very tenacious brass ; Steel wire for musical instru- 
 ments (Webster & Horsfall) ; To weld copper; New process of pre- 
 paring malleable nickel 241 
 
 To obtain dense and flexible copper castings ; To obtain copper steel ; Si- 
 licium ; To protect lead pipes; To protect iron from rust ; To protect 
 lightning-rods, metal roofs, etc., from rust; To protect M 7 ire, iron, and 
 steel from rust 242 
 
 Cleaning guns with petroleum ; To protect wrought-iron bridges from 
 rust ; Staining metals ; Blue stain on iron and steel ; Gray on steel and 
 iron 243 
 
 Black ; To stain iron, gun-barrels, etc., brown ; English process of 
 staining gun-barrels brown, light brown, and light yellowish-brown ; 
 Lacquering of sheet metal; Glazing 244 
 
 Glazing: Green, yellow, blue, chamois, red-brown; White lac color; 
 
 Lilac or violet; Black lacquer; Blue or steel glaze; Red glaze . . 245 
 MUSTARDS : 
 
 To prepare ordinary mustard ; Frankfort and wine mustards ; Lenor- 
 mand's method of preparing mustard 245 
 
 Moutardede Maille; Moutarde & la Ravigotte; Sour Diisseldorf mustard; 
 Soye's method of preparing mustard ; Aromatic and English mustards ; 
 Black and compound mustard powders; Compound English mustard 
 powder; Compound black mustard powder; Very fine table-mustard . 246 
 OILS AND FATS ANIMAL, VEGETABLE, AND MINERAL: 
 
 Purification of mineral oils; Uses of the residues in the manufacture of 
 shale oil ; French process of cleansing vegetable fat oils ; Manufacture 
 of castor oil (Brosius& Co.); Baeder, Adamson & Co.'s process . . 247 
 
 Manufacture of neat's-footoil ; To prepare Chinese drying oil ; To solidify 
 petroleum and other mineral oils ; Rosin oil and its uses . . . 248 
 
 To prepare pure naphthaline ; Vaseline or cosmoline .... 249 
 
 New process of purifying paraffine ; To purify and bleach fat of bones 
 extracted with benzine, and make it available for the manufacture of 
 soap ; Process of gaining glycerine 250 
 
 Corn oil from corn mash ; Oil from acid tar ; To refine cotton-seed oil ; To 
 purify train oil ; To purify illuminating oil ; To purify turbid or impure 
 poppy-seed oil ; To purify animal oils ... ... 251 
 
 Bottger's simple process of making commercial petroleum clear as water 
 without distillation ; Oil from sunflower seed ; Macassar oil ; To pre- 
 pare oil used in pumicing wood ; Cowper's process of deodorizing coal- 
 tar, rosin oil, etc.; To detect rape-seed oil and all oils derived from 
 crucifera3 ; To detect rape-seed oil in other fat oils 252 
 
 Preparation and uses of paraffine 253 
 
 Belmontine and Sherwood oil ; A new oil from California; To distinguish 
 light oils from crude petroleum from light tar oils 254 
 
CONTENTS. xxi 
 
 Practical purification of crude, heavy wood-tar oil and preparation of 
 crude wood-tar creosote ; Separating and purifying fats .... 255 
 
 To remove sulphuric acid and sulphur adhering to mineral oils after re- 
 fining (Perutz) ; Coal-tar varnish oil; Process of producing heavy coal- 
 tar oil in England 256 
 
 Manufacture of yellow shoemakers' wax from purified coal-tar oils; 
 Manufacture of blacksmiths' pitch from coal-tar ; Testing oils (Mau- 
 
 mene) 257 
 
 OIL-PAINTINGS : How TO CLEANSE, PACK, AND VARNISH THEM, AND 
 TO RESTORE GILT WORK : 
 
 To cleanse oil-paintings ... 257 
 
 Action of water, olive oil, or butter: Wood-ash, potash, soap, spirit of 
 wine, oil of turpentine, oil of lemon, and oils of lavender and rose- 
 mary, upon paintings 258 
 
 To remove a painting from the old canvas and transfer it to a new; How 
 to pack oil-paintings for transportation ; To paste an oil-painting on 
 wood ; To cleanse beef-gall to be used as a varnish on paintings ; 
 Cleansing and lacquering of oil-paintings . ... . . . 259 
 
 To cleanse and renovate the gold and framework of old altars ; For cleans- 
 ing the framework from dirt ; To repair lustre gilding on altars ; To 
 
 restore silver on altars and tabernacles 260 
 
 PAINTS AND PIGMENTS. GRINDING AND MIXING COLORS. GRAINING. 
 IMITATION OF MARBLES. PAINTS AND WASHES FOR VARIOUS 
 PURPOSES, ETC. 
 
 Grinding colors ; Brushes 260 
 
 Graining oak, mahogany, and rosewood 261 
 
 Satinwood, maple, and walnut; Imitation of marble; Green marble; 
 Dove-colored marble ; Receipts for colors, American green, apple-green, 
 aurora, azure-blue, blue (cornflower), bluish-white, Bremen green, 
 chamois, cherry-red, chestnut-brown, crimson, enamel-white, flax-gray, 
 golden-yellow, beautiful golden-yellow, grass-green, hazel-yellow, jon- 
 quil, and lemon color 262 
 
 Light-gray, lilac, mahogany, oak, olive-green, sea-green, silver-gray, 
 straw, sulphur, violet dark, medium, light, very light, bluish and 
 walnut dark, light, and very light colors ; Paints for various pur- 
 poses; Flexible paint; New paint for floors, stone, wood, and brick 
 work; Water-proof paint ; Paint suitable for vessels, submarine work, 
 etc 263 
 
 Cheap and durable paint for brick work ; To prepare a zinc wash for 
 rooms; Durable paint for tin roofs; White paint for metallic sur- 
 faces: Green paint for articles exposed to the action of the weather, 
 such as doors, shutters, etc.; Universal paint; Paint for outside walls ; 
 Paint which resists all moisture, for wood or stone; Cheap white paint 
 for outside work ; Red wash for brick floors and pavements ; To prevent 
 disintegration in stone work 264 
 
 For marble ; For sandstone ; To make sail-cloth pliable, durable, and 
 water-proof; Swedish paint for wood work; Paint for constructions of 
 iron; Parafline paint ; Quickly drying oil-paint; Paint for roofs; Paint 
 on wood exposed to the action of the weather 265 
 
 Water-proof paint for metal ; Coating for blackboards ; To protect the 
 bottoms of ships and other articles under water ; Dryer for oil colors 
 and varnish ; To prepare dryers ; Patent dryer ; Dryer for zinc paint ; 
 Drying oil ; To paint tiles red ; Pigments ; Black ; Lampblack . . 266 
 
 Frankfort black; Carbon from peach stones; Ivory black; Brunswick 
 black ; Black from coal ashes and blood ; Berlin blue ; Mountain blue; 
 Ultramarine (artificial) ; Robiquet's artificial ultramarine . , . 267 
 
 Carmine; Carmine lake; Florentine lake; Green borate of copper for 
 oil and porcelain painting ; Chrome-green ; Chrome-green for painting ; 
 
xxii CONTENTS. 
 
 Innoxious green color ; Mineral green ; Neuwied green ; Paris green or 
 Scheele's green; Schweinfurth green as made in Schweinfurth . . 268 
 
 Verdigris; Indigo carmine; Chrome-red; Cassel yellow; American 
 chrome-yellow 269 
 
 Baltimore chrome-yellow ; French chrome-yellow (Spooner's) ; Paris 
 chrome-yellow ; Naples yellow (various shades) ; Patent yellow ; Van- 
 dyke red ; Innoxious colors for painting toys ...... 270 
 
 Colors which, on account of the poisonous qualities, should not be used 
 for painting toys or in coloring articles of food ; Artists' colors and 
 for restoring pictures ; Kremnitz or Venetian white ; Light and dark 
 ochres 271 
 
 Light and dark burnt ochres ; Sienna ; Burnt sienna ; Umber ; Cologne 
 earth ; Ivory black ; Parisian blue ; Cinnabar ; Naples yellow ; Fine 
 Vienna lake ; Minium ; Ultramarine ; Verona earth ; Cobalt blue and 
 brown Munich lake; Water colors; Deep black; Blue; Indigo blue 
 
 Green ; Red ; Violet blue ; Yellow ; White ; Sap red 
 Painting with sympathetic colors ; Preparation of the colors used 
 Purple and rose red ; Yellow, Green, and blue ; Painters' cream 
 
 272 
 273 
 
 J_ \AL^J^ CUJVl XVFOC J. ^\JL j A t J-JLV VT j VjlJl^^Alj CIJ.1VL Ml U.C ? 4. CMUVC/1. ^1 t/,UJ. 
 
 PAPER AND PAPER MATERIALS, MANUFACTURE, STAINING, ETC., GLASS, 
 SAND, AND EMERY PAPER: 
 
 Preparation of the different kinds of straw used in the manufacture of 
 paper 273 
 
 Corn leaves and stalks ; Oats, barley, wheat, and rye straws ; Process of 
 gaining fibrous substances from different plants; Transformation of 
 woolly fibre ; Paper for documents, checks, etc. ; Improved cigarette 
 paper ; Safety paper (to prevent erasures) 274 
 
 Cork paper (H. Felt & Co. patent) ; Wrapping paper for silverware : Prep- 
 aration of parchment paper; Water-proof paper; Peterson's water- 
 proof paper ; Carbolic acid paper 275 
 
 Two new varieties of preserving paper; Plastic pasteboard for surgical 
 bandages; Preparation of tracing paper, tracing linen, and trans- 
 parent packing paper ; Photo-lithographic transfer paper and transfer- 
 color belonging to it; Writing, copying, and drawing paper which can 
 be washed ; Tracing paper ; Transfer paper ; Tar paper . . . 276 
 
 To prepare leather waste for use in the manufacture of paper ; Iridescent 
 paper ; Colored paper for tying up bottles ; Pouget-Maisonneuve's 
 electro-chemical telegraph paper ; Amianthus paper ; To water-proof 
 cylinders of pasteboard; To produce enamelled writing surfaces on 
 pasteboard and paper ; Imitation of mother-of-pearl on paper . . 277 
 
 To make paper transparent; Emery paper (Edwards' apparatus); Water- 
 proof emery paper 278 
 
 Stains in coloring paper for artificial flowers ; Stains for glazed papers . 279 
 
 Stains for morocco papers ; Stains for satin papers 280 
 
 How to split a sheet of paper 281 
 
 PERFUMERY, AROMATIC VINEGARS, COSMETICS, EXTRACTS, HAIR OILS, 
 POMADES, POWDERS, WASHES, FUMIGATING ARTICLES, ETC. : 
 
 Extraction of perfume from flowers; Manufacture of perfumery; Eau 
 des Alpes; Eau de Cologne (Otto's, Thillaye's, and Wagner's); Eau 
 de lavande ambra ; Eau de Paris ; Empress Eugenie's nosegay ; Esprit 
 de patchouli ; Esprit de rose triple ; Esprit de toilet Francaise . . 232 
 
 Ess. bouquet; Extrait violet; Extract of iris ; Jockey club ; Heliotrope; 
 Millefleur ; Moss rose and musk extracts ; New garden nosegay ; New 
 mown hay, Styrax, Tonka bean, and vanilla extracts .... 283 
 
 Victoria extract; West End and white rose bouquets; Ylang-ylang; Am- 
 bergris, Aromatic, Clover, Jasmine, Lavender, Musk, Orange-blossorn, 
 Rose, and toilette vinegars ......... 284 
 
 Vanilla vinegar; Vinaigre de Beaute; Vinaigre des Dames; Vinaigre 
 aromatique de J. V. Bully; Vinaigre d'Hebe (to remove freckles); 
 
CONTENTS. xxiii 
 
 Cucumber essence; Cucumber milk; Lily essence; Narval bouquet; 
 Moss rose essence ; Odeur fin national 285 
 
 Tea rose essence; Violettede Bois; White rose essence; Hair oils; Flower 
 oil ; Good and cheap hair oils ; Hamilton's hair oil ; Huile antique a la 
 Bergamotte; Huile antique a 1'Heliotrope ; Huile a la 1'Heliotrope . 286 
 
 Huile a 1'Oeillet ; Huile antique a la Vanille ; Huile de Millefleurs et de 
 Pot-pourri; Pot-pourri oil; Macassar oil ; Sweet-scented oil; Lime-juice 
 and glycerine h;iir oil; Pomades; Creme Celeste; Creme Cristallisee ; 
 Glycerine balsam ; Ice pomade; Neroli pomade 287 
 
 Pomade (Wagner); Pomade (Winterberg); Pomade a la Duchesse; Po- 
 made au bouquet ; Pomade divine ; Red and rose pomades ; Stick and 
 beard pomatum; Held's beard pomatums; Hungarian moustache 
 pomatum; Stick pomades ; Hair restorers, tonics, washes, etc, . . 288 
 
 American shampooing liquid to promote the growth of hair; Bandolines; 
 Bay-rum hair tonic; Buhlin^en's hair tonic; Cheap and efficacious hair 
 tonic; Cheap hair wash; Eau de lustre (for dressing the hair); Glycer- 
 ine wash ; Rosemary hair wash ; Wash to remove dandruff; Hair dyes ; 
 Brown hair dye; Eau de Chine pour Noircir les Cheveux . . . 289 
 
 Eau Lajeune ; Hager's innoxious hair dye as a substitute for lead prepa- 
 rations ; Innoxious hair dye ; Turkish hair dye ; Depilatory compounds ; 
 Sulphhydrate of sodium; Cosmetic and medicated waters; Anhalt 
 water ; Barege waters ; Napoleon's bath 290 
 
 " Bretfeld water ; " Cascarilla water ; Creole water; Eau Athenienne ; Eau 
 de 1'Imperatrice ; Eau des Odalisques; Eau des Princesses; English 
 honey water; Florida water; Held's cosmetic washes .... 29 J 
 
 Kummerfehlt water; Cosmetic powders, rouges, etc. ; Bran of almonds; 
 Cosmetic wash powder ; Flour of almonds ; Held's washing powder for 
 the hands; Oriental rouge; Paris powder; Rouge; Vinaigre rouge; 
 White or pearl powder; Augustin's cosmetic wash; Copland's aqua 
 cosmetica ; Flacon Generateur Universe! des Cheveux de Madame S. A. 
 Allen; Fumigating articles ; Black fumigating pastils .... 292 
 
 Fumigation with chlorine; Fumigating essence; Fumigating pastils; 
 Fumigating spirits ; Imperial fumigating powder; Medicated fumigat- 
 ing pastils; Iodine pastils; Stramonium pastils; Tar pastils; Opium 
 pastils ; Oriental fumigating balsam 293 
 
 Paris, perfumed and white fumigating pastils 294 
 
 PHARMACEUTICAL PREPARATIONS : 
 
 Artificial Karlsbad water ; Artificial koumiss; Balm of Gilead; Balsam 
 of horehound for colds and asthma; Bitter elixir; Eland's female pills; 
 Blistering ointment; Blume's remedy for spavin, etc.; Camphor ice; 
 Cheltenham salts; Cod-liver oil and iodide of iron . .294 
 
 form (Vulpius formula) ; lodoform pencils; Aromatic balsam . . 295 
 Locatelli's balsam for wounds and ulcers; Soap balsam for sprains; 
 Gelatine capsules for medicinal purposes; English plaster; Malt ex- 
 tract; Malt extract with iron, with lime, with quinine, with pepsin, 
 and with iodide of iron; Neutral citrate of magnesium (Cornelis); Neu- 
 tralizing the taste of cod-liver oil; New American patent medicines; 
 Phosphorole ............ 296 
 
 Fluid hydrastis ; Lacto-pepsin ; Thermaline ; Oleum aromaticum compos- 
 tium (spice oil for kitchen use); Opodeldoc; Pepsin wine with malt 
 (Ernst Schmidt, of Lille); Plastic bandage; Simple and compound 
 lead plasters; Preparation of sticking plaster; New sticking plaster by 
 Dr. A. Hewson ; Galbanum and saffron plaster; Saffron plaster . . 297 
 Soap plaster; Powdered camphor; Buchner's antarthritic paper; English 
 autarthritic paper 298 
 
xxiv CONTENTS. 
 
 PHOTOGRAPHY : 
 
 Alcoholic solution of gelatine; Alkaline gelatine developer; Chloride of 
 silver find gelatine emulsion ; Claudet's instantaneous positive paper; 
 Cleansing mixture lor glass plates 298 
 
 Cleansing fluid for glass plates; Clear caoutchouc solutions; Damson's 
 tannin plates; Receipt for the collodion cotton ; Collodion ; Solution of 
 tannin; Developer for gelatine plates (Mottu, of Amsterdam); Davanne's 
 intensifier ; H. W. Vogel's developing solution of oxalate of iron ; Direc- 
 tion for calculating focus distances for enlarging pictures . . . 299 
 
 Email photographs; Gelatine emulsions (Abney); Glace or enamelled 
 photographs; Gold and fixing baths; Toning bath .... 300 
 
 New intensifying bath for gelatine negatives; New developer for bromide 
 of silver dry plates; New method of preparing emulsion ; New photo- 
 printing receipts; Preliminary preparation; Chrome-gelatine layer; 
 Fixing solution ; Fluid for drawing off negatives ; Painting the operat- 
 ing-room ............. 301 
 
 Petschler's new dry method of preparing plates; Photo-diaphanie, or 
 process of transferring photographs together with the albumen layer 
 on glass, porcelain, etc.; Photo-emulsions; Improvements by H. W. 
 Vogel; Photo-printing without a press 302 
 
 Photographic process with phosphorescent substances; Photographic re- 
 production . 303 
 
 Platinotypy ; Precipitation of gold from old toning baths; Rapid method ; 
 Sensitive collodion ........... 304 
 
 Developers for children and for adults ; Rapid collodion process by Bor- 
 linetto; Neutral silver bath; Developing bath ; Fixing bath; Regaining 
 silver from residues of gelatine emulsions; Removing the negative layer 
 from the glass plate ; Reproduction of photo-negatives .... 30o 
 
 Sensitive collodion emulsion; Sensitive photo-paper; Simple and quick 
 process of preparing pyrogallic acid; Sutton's new developer-; Sui ton's 
 weak silver-bath for albuminized paper; Toning bath with calcium 
 chloride and sodium acetate by Parkinson ; Transfer paper with col- 
 lodio-chloride of silver; Various practical receipts; Collodion for hot 
 weather .306 
 
 Collodion for outside work ; Developer ; Silver bath ; Developer for land- 
 scapes; After developer ; Good intensifying bath ; Solution for prepar- 
 ing paper; Silver bath; Developer; Fixing bath; Negative lacquer 
 with castor oil; Various receipts for the gelatine process; Edwards' 
 glycerine developer; Dr. Eder's oxalate of iron developer; Nelson's 
 developer; Bedford's developer ; Abney's intensifying bath; Varnishes; 
 Good negative lacquer ; Retouching varnish ...... 307 
 
 Elastic lacquer; Excellent lacquer for photographs; Vibrotypes; Photo- 
 graphs on wood; Worthly's negative process, without intensifying 
 bath ; Collodion: Developer for negatives; Varnish for negatives; Pol- 
 ishing glass plates 308 
 
 PLASTER OF PARIS CASTS WHICH CAN BE WASHED : 
 
 Dr. Reissig's prize process of preparing plaster casts 308 
 
 Process with baryta water; With silicate of potassium .... 309 
 
 Brethauer's method of preparing plaster of Paris casts resisting the 
 action of the weather; Jacobsen's process; Shell hass' coating for plas- 
 ter casts 310 
 
 PRESERVING MEAT, MILK, VEGETABLES, VEGETABLE SUBSTANCES, 
 WOOD, "fere., AND PRESERVATIVES: 
 
 Boro-glycerine for preserving organic substances; Boro-tartrate for pre- 
 serving meat and other food ; English pickle for meat; Fluids for pre- 
 serving corpses, anatomical specimens, plants, etc. .... 310 
 
 Fluids of Struve, and Jacobsen ; Wickersheimer's patent " injecting" and 
 "immersing" Iluids; Improved process for preserving meat, fish, fruits, 
 
CONTENTS. XTW 
 
 liquids, etc. ; New process of giving preserved vegetables a natural 
 color; New process of preparing preservative salt; New method of pre- 
 serving sugar beets, potatoes, and other tubers 311 
 
 Preserving lemon juice; Process of preparing preserved cattle-feed from 
 agricultural products and waste: Sapid process of corning meat on a 
 small scale; To dry fruit by means of a cold air blast ; To pack apples 
 and other fruit for transportation; To preserve the blood from meat 
 cattle; To preserve burnt lime ; To preserve butter and egirs . . 312 
 
 To preserve fish; To preserve fluids containing nutritive substances; To 
 preserve hops 313 
 
 To preserve meat; Wickershemier's patent for preserving meat; To pre- 
 serve meat and vegetables, milk, vegetables and fruits .... 314 
 
 To prevent the formation of mould on fruit jellies; Two new kinds of 
 preservative papers; To smoke beef; To preserve vine props and wine 
 barrels by impregnating the wood ; Impregnation with linseed oil, with 
 preparations of lime, with common salt, with solution of -sulphate of 
 copper, with coal-tar 315 
 
 "With rosin ; New preservative for wood; To restore the original natural 
 
 color of old parquet floors . . 316 
 
 SEALING-WAX AND WAFERS: 
 
 Receipts for all colors of sealing-wax ........ 316 
 
 Transparent sealing-wax ; Gold or silver transparent sealing-wax ; Aven- 
 turine sealing-wax ; Parcel sealing-wax of a great variety of colors . 317 
 
 Cheap Parcel sealing-wax ; Bottle sealing-wax ; Substitute for bottle 
 sealing-wax; Wafers; White and colored wafers 318 
 
 Gelatine or French wafers; Light red wafers; Transparent red wafers; 
 
 For yellow and blue wafers; English metallic wafers. . . . .319 
 SHOE-BLACKING, DRESSINGS, ETC. : 
 
 Ingredients of good blacking 319 
 
 Mixing the ingredients; Caoutchouc blackings, paste, and fluid; Caont- 
 chouc oil ; Cordova blacking ;- Dressing for dancing shoes ; Dressing free 
 from sulphuric acid ; Dressings superior to Paris dressing ; English water- 
 proof blacking ; Fluid blacking, a substitute for ointment and lacquer . 320 
 
 French paste for patent leather; Good shoe-blackings; Gutta-percha 
 blacking; Hardeg's leather ointments; Konrad's celebrated blacking; 
 Ointment for boots used by the Normandy fishermen ; Shoe-blacking 
 from potatoes; Water- proof blacking ; Water-proof ointments for shoes 
 and boots 321 
 
 To give the soles, after scraping, a smooth and beautiful appearance ; For 
 hemlock leather soles ; To prevent boots and shoes from squeaking ; To 
 
 make water-proof boots 322 
 
 SIZING AND DRESSING FOR COTTON, WOOL, STRAW, ETC. : 
 
 Back's improved size and dressing for linen, cotton, and woollen goods . 322 
 
 Dressing and size; Eau de Crystal! ; Glycerine, and its use in sizing and 
 dressing; New preparation, glutine, used for giving gloss to wall 
 papers, and as an inspissation for dyeing and printing purposes . . 323 
 
 New size ; Preparation of artificial gum to be used in place of gum- Arabic ; 
 Preparation of blood albumen 324 
 
 To prepare patent albumen; Preparation of dextrine; Process of sizing 
 all kinds of tissues with alkaline solutions of silk, wool, or feathers; 
 Size for bobbinet: For cotton yarns; For cotton and woollen yarns; 
 Size for cotton ; Dressing cotton' prints 325 
 
 Glaze dressing for colored cotton goods; Glaze on black ; Glaze on black 
 goods when the color is not sufficiently deep and dark; Glaze on blue 
 and green ; Glaze on crimson paper muslin ; Glaze on rose-colored mus- 
 lin ; Size for laces; For linen ; For half-bleached linen ; For fine Hol- 
 land linen; For table linen and damask; Dressing for Panama hats; 
 Size for petinet and marly 326 
 
xxvi CONTENTS. 
 
 Size for woollen goods, cloths, and flannels ; Sulphate of barium ; Gerard's 
 apparatine ............. 327 
 
 SOAP. HARD AND SOFT SOAPS, MEDICATED AND TOILET SOAPS, ETC. : 
 
 American rosin soap 327 
 
 American soaps; Superior soaps ; Old English soap; First premium soap; 
 Brown rosin soap in the cold way ; Cocoanut-oil soap in the cold way . 328 
 
 Cold water soap ; Elaine soap ; Floating soap ; Molasses soap ; Cocoanut- 
 oil and molasses soap 329 
 
 Oranienburg soap; Process of preparing all kinds of perfectly neutral 
 soaps ; Water-glass soaps, hard and soft ; Sand soap .... 330 
 
 Toilet and medicated soaps; Bitter almond soap in the cold way ; Bouquet 
 soap; Camphor soaps; Camphor and sulphur soap; Eagle soap 
 (brown) ; Family soap ; Gall soap ; Glycerine soaps, brilliant and trans- 
 parent 331 
 
 Substitute filling in making glycerine soap; Iodide soap; Kummerfeldt's 
 soap for frosted limbs ; Lemon, lily, and mignonette soaps ; Musk soap 
 in the cold way ; Orange and patchouli soaps ; Prime pumice soap in 
 the cold way ; Eose soap ; Savon de Kiz ; Savon ess. bouquet ; Savon 
 orange ; Soap cremes 332 
 
 Creme d'Amandes Ameres; Creme a la rose; Sulphur soap; Swiss herb 
 soap ; Tannin, tar, vaseline, violet, and white alabaster soaps . . 333 
 
 White Windsor soap ; Shaving soap in the cold way ; Soap for washing 
 silk goods; To give a gloss to the surface of toilet soaps; New process 
 of treating fats 334 
 
 Balling's method of preparing caustic soda-lye; Tunnermann's tables giv- 
 ing the percentage of soda in a soda-lye at 59 F., and percentage of 
 anhydrous potash in potash-lye at 59 F. 335 
 
 Prinz's practical soap-boiling tables for hard and soft soaps . . . 336 
 SOLDERING AND SOLDERS: 
 
 Explanation of soldering 336 
 
 Autogenous soldering; Ordinary soft solder; Bismuth solder; Darcet's 
 metal; Hard solders; Copper for joining iron to iron; Brass hard 
 solder; Hard solder containing tin; Solder for argentan (German 
 silver) 337 
 
 Hard silver solders ; Softer hard silver solders ; Hard gold solders ; Easily 
 liquefiable solders for articles less than 14-carat gold ; Refractory solder 
 for articles of 14-carat gold and over ; Solder for articles of 20-carat gold, 
 which are to be enamelled; Very refractory solders for articles to be 
 enamelled; Other hard gold solders for articles of 14-carat gold . . 338 
 
 Good hard solder for soldering brass; Excellent soft solder; Table of 
 alloys for soft solder and their respective melting points ; Silver solder 
 for plated ware ; Soft solder for cast Britannia metal; Solder for pew- 
 ter; Hard white solder; Hard yellow solder; Solder for gold on alu- 
 minium bronze ; Golden yellow hard solder ; Medium light hard solder ; 
 White hard solder ; To solder brass, sheet-tin, iron, and steel . . 339 
 
 To solder steel on sheet-iron ; Soldering without a soldering iron ; Solder- 
 ing liquid causing 110 rust; Another soldering liquid free from acid; 
 Simple method of soldering small articles; To solder saws . . .340 
 SUGARS, GLUCOSE, ETC. ; 
 
 Preparation of milk-sugar 340 
 
 Engling's process of preparing milk-sugar; Improvement in refining and 
 crystallizing of starch sugar (glucose) ; Refining and preparation of 
 anhydrous glucose; Apparatus and process for starch, glucose, and hard 
 grape sugar (dextrose), by Wm. T. Jepp, of Buffalo, N. Y. . . . 341 
 To remove gypsum from solutions of glucose; Preparation of pure leva- 
 lose; A new source for supplying Mannite ... . .342 
 Purification of sugar-beet juice by means of silica hydrate; To prepare 
 gtrontia sugar from treacle and syrup ....... 344 
 
CONTENTS. xxvii 
 
 TEXTILE FABRICS AND TISSUES- 
 
 Coating textile fabrics with metallic substances ; Effect of heat on textile 
 fabrics; Feather plush 344 
 
 Down cloth ; Improvement in the treatment of vegetable fibres; Improve- 
 ment in the preparation of surfaces to be printed on, embossed, etc. ; 
 New method of compressing the fibres of cotton tissues, and giving the 
 colors more lustre ; New yarn, called pearl yarn; Oil-cloth . . . 345 
 
 Apparatus and process for scouring and removing the oil from fleece, wool, 
 and silk, and woollen fabrics of every description; Process for animal- 
 izing vegetable fibres with nitro-glucose (nitro-saccharose) ; Patent 
 process to give to colored fabrics a metallic lustre; Preparation of fibres 
 that can be spun from nettles, hemp, jute, etc. 346 
 
 Shoddy: how it is made 347 
 
 Silk gauze; Tinning of tissues; To produce a metallic lustre upon 
 fabrics; Utilization of short hair; Utilization and working of jute . 348 
 
 "Heckled yarn," or "jute line yarn;" Utilization of hop-stalks; A new 
 
 yarn produced in France 349 
 
 TOBACCO, SMOKING TOBACCO, SNUFF, STERNUTATIVE POWDERS, ETC. : 
 
 Smoking tobaccos ; Brazilian tobacco ; "Legitimo;" Havana leaf . . 349 
 
 Ordinary American leaf tobacco; Chinese or star tobacco; Canaster; 
 Half canaster ; Maracaibo tobacco; Ostend tobacco; Petit canaster . 350 
 
 Petnm optimum, according to the Dutch process; Portocarero tobacco; 
 Porto Rico tobacco, according to the Dutch process ; Porto Rico tobacco 
 from ordinary leaf; Swiceut tobacco (English process); Swicent tobacco 
 (ordinary); Sweet-scented tobacco 351 
 
 Varinas tobacco ; Improvement of inferior qualities of tobacco . .352 
 
 To remove the disagreeable smell and taste of inferior qualities of tobacco; 
 Snuff manufacture ; Barenburg snuff; Bergamot snuif ; Dutch Musino 
 snuff; Espaniol or Sevilla snuff 353 
 
 Frankfort snuff; Parisian Rappee ; Rappee (genuine) ; St. Vincent Rap- 
 pee ; Sternutative (sneezing) powders ; Green sternutatory ; Variegated 
 sternutatory; White sternutatory ; Sternutatories for cold in the head ; 
 Corrizinio ; Perfumes for cigars ; Turkish smoking tobacco . . . 354 
 
 To impart to common American tobacco the flavor of Havana; New 
 
 process of preparing tobacco; Preparation of leaf for cigars . . .355 
 VINEGAR : MANUFACTURE OF ORDINARY AND FINE TABLE VINEGARS : 
 
 Altvater's process of manufacturing vinegar; The factory ; Utensils .. 355 
 
 Plunging "vinegar producers;" Utilization of cork-waste in the manu- 
 facture of vinegar ; Concentration of vinegar ; To prepare the yellow 
 color for coloring vinegar; To prepare acetic ether; Quick vinegar 
 process ; Production of vinegar by means of bacteria .... 358 
 
 Investigations of Pasteur and Wurm 359 
 
 White wine vinegar ; To prepare acetic acid ; To prepare excellent vin- 
 egar ; Vinegar from potatoes or rice ; Fine table vinegars ; Anise vinegar ; 
 Aromatic vinegar 360 
 
 Dragonswort (Estragon) vinegar ; Compound dragonswort, or herb table- 
 vinegar; Spiced dragonswort -vinegar ; English spiced vinegar; Effer- 
 vescing vinegar; Herb vinegar as prepared in the northern part of 
 Germany ; Herb vinegar as prepared on the Rhine ; Lemon vinegar . 361 
 
 Orange, pine-apple, raspberry, strawberry, and vanilla vinegars ; Vinaigre 
 
 a la Bordin ; Vinaigre a la Ravigote 362 
 
 WASHING AND SCOURING. MANUFACTURE OF WASHING-BLUE, ETC. : 
 
 To wash satin, silk ribbons, brocade, and silk damask ; To wash silk 
 ribbons mixed with gold and silver threads, silver and gold lace . 362 
 
 To wash gold laces ; To wash white silk crape, white gauze, fine muslin, 
 linen, and batiste and velvet; To wash velvet which has become hard 
 and rough by rain or mud; To wash veils, silk, and silk fabrics . . 363 
 
 To wash embroidered fabrics, or muslin, linen, etc., woven with gold ; To 
 
xxviii CONTENTS. 
 
 wash silk stockings, and taffeta; To polish gold and silver lace; To 
 polish silver lace or embroidery ; To wash laces 364 
 
 To wash point lace ; To whiten lace; To cleanse feathers : Cleansing and 
 rosing salt for red cloths stained by use ; To wash genuine pearls ; Dye- 
 starch, and crimson dye-starch ; Washing with -water-glass . . . 365 
 
 Palme's process of washing; New wash process; To wash dresses of fast- 
 colored silk; To make washed silk glossy; To restore the color of 
 fabrics; To wash pearl embroideries; To bleach or whiten clothes; 
 Clark's wash for carpets; To wash straw and chip hats . . . 366 
 
 Experiments in washing woollen fabrics ....... 367 
 
 To wash cotton and muslin prints without injury to the colors ; Panama 
 essence for cleansing and washing clothes; Cleansing fluid for tissues, 
 etc.; Use of tin salt for removing rust-stains from clothes (Hermann's 
 experiments) ; Manufacture of washing-blue 368 
 
 Table of means of removing stains ........ V 3G9 
 
 Liquid wash-blue; Several other receipts for liquid washing-blue; Wash- 
 ing powders ; Washing crystal ; Lustrine Alsacienne (starch gloss) . 370 
 WASTE AND OFFAL, UTILIZATION OF : 
 
 Fabrication of lampblack from waste in working coal-tar . . . 370 
 
 Specially constructed furnace for manufacturing lampblack ; Manufacture 
 of lampblack from asphaltum, pitch, or blacksmiths' pitch . . .371 
 
 Manufacture of various kinds of lampblack from the resinous sodic resi- 
 dues in the working of coal-tar ; Manufacture of artificial manures from 
 residues in the working of coal-tar 372 
 
 Manure for meadows; With wood-ash; With peat-ash; Utilization of 
 ammoniacal liquor from coal-tar 373 
 
 Ammonia, tar, and other products of distillation from the gases of coke- 
 ovens 374 
 
 To regain hydrochloric acid used in the manufacture of gelatine from 
 bones; Tartrate of calcium and spirit of wine from wine lees . . 375 
 
 Process of producing white or black pigment from the clarifying slime 
 in sugar houses; Process of working fecal substances in a rarefied 
 space; Sulphur, sulphuric acid, etc., from gas-lime; Recovering fat 
 and color from waste wash liquors 376 
 
 Utilization of waste wash liquors from wool manufactories; To cleanse 
 woollen waste; Utilization of waste of sheep wool; To regain indigo 
 from old colors and residues of colors; Production of cyanide of potas- 
 sium, ammonia, tar, and gas from nitrogeneous organic substances; To 
 restore rubber corks; Process of gaining the volatile products developed 
 
 in roasting coffee and their utilization 377 
 
 WATER-GLASS (SOLUBLE GLASS) AND ITS USES: 
 
 Potash water-glass; Water-glass from infusorial earth ; Soda water-glass; 
 Buchner's process ; Compound water-glass ...... 378 
 
 Preparation of fixing water-glass; Kuhlmann's (of Lille) process; Water- 
 glass as a substitute for cow-dung for fixing alumina and iron mordants 
 on cotton-prints, linen, etc.; Use of soda water-glass for protecting 
 white colors in printing fabrics; Water-glass for silicifying stones; 
 Water-glass as a bleaching agent (H. Grothe) . . . . . 379 
 
 Water-glass for finishing linen and cotton goods; Potash water-glass as a 
 binding and fixing medium for ground colors on cotton goods; For 
 light blue ultramarine colors ; Violet; Different green tints; Yellow; 
 Orange and red; Red-brown; Copper-brown; W T hite; Different vegeta- 
 ble lakes; ;' Solid blue;" "Solid green" .380 
 
 Water-glass in painting (Feichtinger); Use of ^ater-glass for coating 
 rough-cast and stone walls ; Water-glass in painting metals and glass ; 
 Advantages to wood painted with w r r.ter-glass ; Creuzburg's process of 
 painting with water-glass ; Water-glass as a substitute for borax and 
 poracic acid in soldering and welding ; Water-glass cements , . . 381 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 To cement cracked bottles with water-glass ; To prepare hydraulic Water- 
 glass cement; Water-glass cement for glass and porcelain; Water-glass 
 cement with zinc and pyrolusite; Water-glass and lime cement; Bott- 
 ger's water-glass and lime cement; Water-glass and caseine cement for 
 glass and porcelain ; Water-glass and powdered chalk mortar; Water- 
 glass for preserving barrels and other wooden articles . . . 382 
 WATER-PROOFING COMPOUNDS : 
 
 Preparations for water-proofing tissues ....... 382 
 
 To m;ike sacking water-proof; Soap for water-proofing woollen cloth and 
 other fabrics ; Various processes of water-proofing tissues ; Preparation 
 of collodion varnish for water-proofing fabrics; A new water-proofing 
 compound; To manufacture water-proof cloth which is not impervious 
 to the air; Prepared cloth as a substitute for leather . . . .383 
 
 To water-proof felt, woollen, and half-woollen fabrics, and to give them 
 greater consistence ; To water-proof vegetable fibres ; To water-proof 
 textile fabrics, leather, paper, etc.; To water-proof paper; For water- 
 proofing woollen fabrics .......... 384 
 
 Impregnation with caoutchouc; Impenetrable double stuff'; Becker, 
 Delivaire & Co.'s process of water-proofing fabrics; New process of 
 water-proofing fabrics; VaneFs water-proof composition; Roelaudt's 
 water-proofing compounds; French preparation to make boots and 
 shoes water-proof; To water-proof sugar-bags for transport use . . 385 
 
 English patent water-proofing compound ; Water-proofing felt hats ; Water- 
 proof sail-cloth, known as "Imperial cloth;" Zwilling's water-proofing 
 compound; Dr. Fouruaise's water-proofing compound; Ruhr's receipt 
 for water-proofing linen ; To water-proof textile fabrics and paper, and 
 to give them greater consistence ; Composition for water-proofing textile 
 
 fabrics, and protecting them against moths 386 
 
 WAX AND WAX PREPARATIONS: 
 
 Unadulterated beeswax; To bleach beeswax; Green wax; Black wax; 
 Red wax; Polishing wax; Polishing wax for furniture; Wax soap . 387 
 
 Waxed paper; Colors for wax-work ; Gold ground upon wax ; Wax for 
 waxing threads to be woven; Wax tapers; Wax candles . . . 388 
 
 Floor wax; New compound for waxing floors; Spirit lacquer for 
 
 lacquering wax tapers; Excellent modelling wax . . . . .389 
 WOOD. GILDING, POLISHING, STAINING, ETC.: 
 
 Extraction and impregnation of sounding-board wood ; To prepare sound- 
 ing-board wood ; To make wood flexible and fire-proof .... 389 
 
 To render wood incombustible and impermeable (Folbacci) ; To render 
 wood fire-proof; To render wood impermeable to water .... 390 
 
 How osiers can be peeled in winter ; Staining wood for fine cabinet work 
 (Denninger, of Mayence); Gallic acid; Sulphate of iron; Logwood 
 shavings; Pulverized sanderswood; Saffron and annotto; Shavings of 
 Brazil wood and of fustic; Crushed Persian berries; Pulverized 
 cochineal; Aqueous decoction of logwood; Pulverized indigo; Solution 
 of tin; Denniuger's process of producing colors 391 
 
 Other stains on wood (Thimm's patent); Black ground for lacquering; 
 To stain walking-canes; To stain maple wood silver-gray . . .392 
 
 Ebony stains ; For veneers ; Stain for floors ; Staining wood for veneers, 
 mosaics various colors 393 
 
 Moiner's method of staining wood rose color by chemical precipitation; 
 New polish for wood; Moody's new polish ; Gilding on wood . . 394 
 
 American process of preserving wood; Preparation of mine-timber; Rela- 
 tive durability of the timbers 395 
 
 Shrinking of wood ; Strength of some American woods ; Hard coating for 
 wood; Imitation of cedar wood ; New glaze for barrels, vats, etc. . . 396 
 
 New method of drying wood; New paint for wooden posts, etc. ;-New 
 process of preserving wood ......... 397 
 
xxx CONTENTS. 
 
 Polishing wax for wood; Practical experiments in producing new colors 
 upon wood with known coloring matters ...... 398 
 
 Preparation of fire-proof wood 399 
 
 YEASTS. MANUFACTURE OF PRESSED YEAST, BAKERS' AND BREWERS' 
 YEAST, ETC. : 
 
 Schubert's method of manufacturing pressed yeast 399 
 
 Ssiccharization and cooling; Setting the mash; Scooping off the yeast 
 and freeing it from husks; Washing and pressing the yeast; Moulding 
 the pressed yeast; Vienna pressed yeast; Zettler's process of manufact- 
 uring Vienna pressed yeast 400 
 
 Prof. Otto's directions for preparing pressed yeast; Pressed yeast from 
 potatoes; American dry yeast; Artificial yeast 401 
 
 Cramer's process of preparing pressed yeast from beer-yeast; Improve- 
 ments in treating yeast ; Pressed yeast from beer-yeast .... 402 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 ALLOYS : 
 
 Alloy of copper, platinum, and palladium; Alloys resembling silver; 
 
 Minargent; Warne metal; Trabak metal ; Manganese alloys . . 403 
 New alloy for silvering; Aluminium bronze; Phosphor bronze . .404 
 Manganese bronze ; Density of alloys ; Alloys exhibiting greater density 
 than the mean of their constituents ; Alloys exhibiting less density than 
 the mean of their constituents ; Fusibility of alloys ; Spence's metal ; 
 Receipts for metal-workers proved in practice; Metal for brasses; Ma- 
 chinery metal for various purposes 405 
 
 ANTISEPTIC AND PRESERVATIVE AGENTS : 
 
 Boroglyceride 405 
 
 Calcium and sodium glyceroborates, two new antiseptics .... 406 
 Effective power of different antiseptic agents ; New iron fruit-drying ap- 
 paratus; New process of greening canned vegetables; For peas; For 
 beans; Novelties in preserving organic substances, and apparatus used . 407 
 Preparation, free from arsenic, for preserving animal skins; Preservative 
 packing-paper to protect cloth, furs, etc., from moths .... 408 
 
 ARTIFICIAL EYES, MANUFACTURE OF 408 
 
 ASBESTOS AND ITS USES : 
 
 Asbestos industry in England 409 
 
 BLEACHING : 
 
 Bleaching of fabrics and yarns without chlorine 409 
 
 Bleaching yarns and fabrics; Novelties in bleaching . . . .410 
 BOOKBINDING, GILDING, AND ORNAMENTING: 
 
 Folding ; Rolling ; Sewing ; Rounding 410 
 
 Edge-cutting; Binding; Covering; Tooling and lettering ; Edge-gilding ; 
 
 For plain edges; Marbling; Reichardt's rosin compound for gilding 
 
 paper, leather, etc.; Reber's process of gilding leather; Parchment 
 
 glue ; White of egg; Marbled and dark leather of one color . . . 411 
 
 Calfskin; Dull 'gilding on calfskin; To gild velvet; Gilding on silk; 
 
 Bookbinders' lacquer ; Improvement in book covers .... 412 
 BRONZING, GILDING, SILVERING, ETC. : 
 
 Apparatus for coating tools 412 
 
 Bronzing copper; Cold black stain for brass; Galvanizing and nickelling 
 
 of iron in Cleveland, Ohio; Gilding of steel 413 
 
 Gold and orange stain for brass ; Green bronzing ; Liquid cement for 
 coating articles; New process for producing a bronze-colored surface on 
 iron ; Painting on zinc . . 414 
 
CONTENTS. xxxi 
 
 To cleanse brass ; To color soft solder yellow 415 
 
 BUILDING MATERIALS : 
 
 Fire-resisting properties of building materials; Cork stone; Enamelled 
 bricks . ............ 415 
 
 Mass for roofing, fire-proof ceilings, floors, etc.; Plaster for ceilings; 
 
 Terra-cotta lumber ; Utilization of saw-dust 416 
 
 CELLULOID. IMITATIONS, SUBSTITUTES, ETC. : 
 
 Artificial ivory ; Celluloid printing plates 416 
 
 Elastic mass resembling leather; Flexible insulating mass; Insulating 
 material for electrical conductors ; Mass for plastic models ; New imita- 
 tion of ivory ; New substitute for caoutchouc ...... 417 
 
 Substitute for gutta-percha; Superior modelling wax; Vegetable leather . 418 
 CEMENT WORK : 
 
 Water-proof cement work 418 
 
 CLEANSING, POLISHING, AND RENOVATING AGENTS: 
 
 Cleaning-powder for show-windows ; Clean sing- rags for polishing metal ; 
 Cleansing wash-leather; Cloth-cleaning compound; Furniture reno- 
 vater; Liquid polish for silver-plated ware; New polish for wood . 419 
 
 Polishing soaps and pastes ; Restoring plush ; To clean glass and silver- 
 ware; To clean marble 420 
 
 To cleanse silvered dial plates; To clean smoky walls .... 421 
 COLORS, ENAMELS, CEMENTS, GLUE, VARNISHES, WATER-PROOFING 
 SUBSTANCES, ETC. : 
 
 American wood-filler; Cement for mend ing enamel led dial plates; Crystal- 
 line coating for wood or paper; Enamel for fine cards and other pur- 
 poses ; Imitation of cinnabar 421 
 
 Enamel free from lead and metallic oxides for iron and sheet-iron, and 
 utensils manufactured from them ; New method for the production of 
 water-proof and incombustible fabrics ; Phosphorescent enamel ; Prep- 
 aration of lustre colors with carbolic acid; Bismuth, tin, uranium, and 
 iron lustres 422 
 
 Soap varnishes; Johnson's varnish for water-proofing paper or cloth; 
 
 Soap varnish for gilding; Water-proof glue 423 
 
 COPYING : 
 
 New method of copying drawings; Phytochromotypy . . . .423 
 EXPLOSIVE AGENTS : 
 
 Blasting cartridges ; Blasting paper; Explosive combination ; Explosive 
 substance; Explosive and pyrotechnic substances; Method of blasting 
 under water with compressed gun-cotton 424 
 
 New blasting powder; New method of preparing giant powder; Prepara- 
 tion of hypouitric acid and its use for explosive and illuminating sub- 
 stances 425 
 
 GLASS : 
 
 Appert's method of blowing glass by means of compressed air . . .'426 
 
 Cutting glass with a carbon pencil ; Receipts for making carbon pencils . 430 
 
 Etching ink for glass ; Glass with copper lustre 431 
 
 Lead-pencils for glass and porcelain ; Receipts for different colored pen- 
 cils; Lithium glass ; Manufacture of plate glass 432 
 
 Ornamenting frosted glass; To transfer photographs to glass; Platinizing 
 
 glass; Toughened glass 434 
 
 HORN-COMBS, MANUFACTURE OF: 
 
 Treatment of horn for manufacture of horn-combs 435 
 
 LUBRICANTS, BLACKING, ETC. : 
 
 Belt grease 435 
 
 Caoutchouc lubricant for driving belts; Harness grease; Harness polish; 
 Thurston's machine for testing lubricating oils 436 
 
 Lubricants; Experiments on the effect of admixture of mineral oil with 
 animal oil in lessening the liability of the latter to spontaneous com- 
 bustion; Purification of lubricants after use; New receipts for blacking. 438 
 
xxxii CONTENTS. 
 
 METAL INDUSTRY. 
 
 Hardening composition for steel ; Indium, its preparation and use; Mac- 
 kinnon stylographic pen as made by John Holland (Cincinnati) . . 439 
 
 Phosphor-indium and its properties ; Cowles' electric furnace for reducing 
 refractory ores ............ 440 
 
 Fleetruan's process of refining nickel ; Ostberg's process for wrought-iron 
 (or mitis) castings; Mechanically hardened steel; New solder for metal, 
 glass, and porcelain ; Oxidized silver 441 
 
 Phosphorizing bronze or brass ......... 442 
 
 Prevention of rusting-in of screws ; To mark tools with a name ; Utiliza- 
 tion of nickel waste; Zincing screw bolts 443 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS : 
 
 Continuously-working furnace for the manufacture of animal charcoal . 444 
 
 Gilding and silvering leather; Coating leaden water pipes to prevent con- 
 tamination of the water supply; New floor covering; New process of 
 manufacturing gold wall paper 445 
 
 Phosphorescent mixtures ; Preparation of precipitated chalk for tooth- 
 powders ; Process of joining two pieces of horn ; To make horn combs 
 elastic; Roach and moth exterminator; Shaving cream . . . 440 
 
 To preserve India rubber goods from becoming hard and cracking; To 
 render rubber hose odorless; Washing white straw hats; Window 
 panes which indicate the moisture of the atmosphere .... 447 
 OILS AND FATS : 
 
 Bleaching of bone-fat; Bleaching of paraffine and similar substances for 
 the manufacture of candles; Bleaching of oils and fats . . . 447 
 
 Bleaching tallow . . 448 
 
 Clarifying olive oil; Detection of water in essential oils; Manufacture of 
 cotum-seed oil 449 
 
 Fat from sheep's wool; "Suint," or potassic sudorate in .sheep's wool . 450 
 
 Refining of cotton-seed oil; Production of light-colored soap, or light- 
 colored sebacic acids, from crude cotton-seed oil, or from residues 
 obtained by its purification ; To remove the disagreeable odor of soap 
 made from cotton-seed oil; Utilizing cotton-seed hulls; New process of 
 extracting fish oil ; Preparation of heavy oils and paraffine from petro- 
 leum residues 451 
 
 Purification of oils; Solidification of liquid hydrocarbons; Substitute for 
 linseed oil; To purify oils 452 
 
 White vaseline oil ; Solvent power of glycerine; Tables showing the parts 
 
 of other substances dissolved by 100 parts (by weight) of glycerine . 453 
 PAri-:u: 
 
 Cupro-ammonimn for rendering paper and textile fabrics water-, rot-, and 
 insect-proof (Wi 11 esdeni zing) ......... 453 
 
 Fabrication of parchment; Fire-proof papers, colors, and printed matter; 
 Gas-pipes from paper ; Luminous paper 454 
 
 Manufacture of bottles, etc., from paper; New method of manufacturing 
 paper pulp ; Paper for covering boilers; Preparation of soap paper; To 
 make parchment paper impermeable to oil ...... 455 
 
 STRAW, BLEACHING AND DYEING OF : 
 
 Bleaching straw ............ 455 
 
 Dyeing straw of various colors 456 
 
 STRENGTH OF MATERIALS: 
 
 Thurston's autographic torsion testing machine 456 
 
 WILLOW- WARE : 
 
 Bleaching willow-ware; Stains for willow-ware; Receipts for various 
 colors 458 
 
 Coloring osiers with aniline colors 459 
 
 Varnishing, gilding, and painting willow-ware 460 
 
 INDEX 461 
 
TECMO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 ADULTERATIONS, IMITATIONS, ETC. 
 HOW TO DETECT THEM. 
 
 Olive Oil. The following process of 
 testing olive oil for cotton-seed oil has 
 been authorized by the Italian Govern- 
 ment: Mix 1 part of pure nitric acid 
 with 2 parts of the oil to be tested. 
 Place a clean copper wire in the mix- 
 ture, and stir thoroughly with a glass 
 rod. The oil, if it contains cotton-seed 
 oil, will turn red in the course of half 
 an hour. 
 
 Animal Charcoal. To detect adul- 
 terations of animal charcoal used in 
 the manufacture of sugar, place a 
 weighed quantity of the suspected char- 
 coal, previously finely powdered and 
 dried, in a porcelain crucible, and heat 
 until all organic substances, have been 
 incinerated. Not more than one-tenth 
 of the weight should be lost by this 
 operation. To determine whether the 
 charcoal has been used before, boil the 
 sample several times with pure water, 
 dry, add a small quantity of potassium 
 hydrate and bring again to the boiling 
 point. After a few minutes, filter. If 
 the filtrate appears colored, the char- 
 coal has already been used, and not 
 thoroughly revivified. 
 
 Determination of Percentage of Oil 
 in Seeds. The apparatus, Fig. 1, con- 
 sists of the vessel , the cylindrical 
 vessel b, and a small air pump c on the 
 side of the vessel a. Further, of a 
 small copper still, d (Fig. 2), and a 
 boiler e i , a tinned copper saucer g, and 
 the water-bath h. The lower half of 
 this is perforated, and connected with 
 the still by a rubber hose. 
 
 A convenient quantity, say 4 oz., of 
 the seed to be tested is ground as fine 
 as possible. One-half of it is placed 
 in the cylindrical vessel b, a diaphragm 
 placed upon it, and on the top of this, 
 the second half of the seed, also covered 
 
 by a diaphragm. A sufficient quantity 
 of bisulphide of carbon, to thoroughly 
 
 Fig. 1. 
 
 moisten the seed, is then poured ovei 
 it. After a few minutes the vessel a is 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 emptied by means of the air pump 
 the oily bisulphide of carbon runs o 
 (l) 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 the vessel is charged anew with bisul- 
 phide, and the pumping and charging 
 repeated, until the liquid runs off quite 
 colorless, and leaves no grease stain 
 upon printing paper after evaporation. 
 Four ounces of seed will usually re- 
 quire about 16 ounces of bisulphide of 
 carbon. 
 
 To separate the bisulphide of carbon 
 from the oil, the still is filled three 
 quarters full with water, heated by a 
 lamp placed under it, and the fluid to be 
 evaporated poured into the saucer. 
 When the bisulphide of carbon has been 
 evaporated, the still is removed, the 
 saucer placed over the lamp, and re- 
 moved the moment the oil commences to 
 boil. It is then allowed to cool off, 
 and the oil contained in the saucer is 
 weighed. By this process it was found 
 that 
 
 Rape seed . . 
 Flaxseed . . 
 White poppy 
 
 seed . . . 
 Peanuts . . . 
 Water melon 
 
 seed . . . 
 White mustard 
 
 seed . . . 
 Black mustard 
 
 seed . . . 
 Hemp seed 
 
 yielded 40 to 50 per cent, of oil. 
 34 " " " " 
 
 36 
 
 Vinegar may be adulterated : 
 
 a. With Sulphuric Acid. To detect 
 this adulteration mix a small sample 
 with some powdered starch, boil it for 
 half an hour, then allow it to become 
 entirely cold (this is absolutely neces- 
 sary); and add a few drops of iodine 
 solution. The vinegar, in case it is 
 adulterated, will be colored blue. 
 
 b. With Nitric Acid. Mix a sample 
 with solution of sulphate of indigo. 
 The fluid becomes discolored, or as- 
 sumes a yellowish color, if adulterated. 
 
 c. Tar tar ic Acid. A specimen of the 
 vinegar to be tested is evaporated 
 nearly to dryness. The residue is 
 extracted with alcohol, filtered and 
 treated with a solution of potassium 
 chloride. A white precipitate indicates 
 adulteration. 
 
 d. Lead is present when a sample of 
 vinegar is evaporated to one quarter of its 
 volume, and this, being treated with sul- 
 phuric acid, yields a white precipitate, j 
 
 Saffron. Concentrated sulphuric acid 
 is the surest means of testing saffron. 
 The stigmas of the genuine article will 
 immediately assume an indigo color, 
 which changes quickly into dark red 
 and brown, while the leaves of crocus 
 vermts, the most common adulteration 
 of saffron, are colored dark green. 
 
 Asphaltum. To detect adulterations, 
 dissolve a sample in bisulphide of car- 
 bon, filter, evaporate to dryness, and 
 heat until it can be rubbed to a fine 
 powder in a mortar. One part by- 
 weight of this is gently digested with 
 50 parts of sulphuric acid for twenty- 
 four hours, and then gradually with 
 100 parts of water, and allowed to 
 cool thoroughly. This mixture is fil- 
 tered and diluted with 1,000 parts of 
 water. The unadulterated asphaltum 
 gives a colorless or pale-yellow fluid, 
 while, if pitch, coal-tar, etc., are pres- 
 ent, it is dark brown or black. 
 
 Simple Process of Distinguishing 
 Genuine Gilding and Silvering from 
 Imitations, a. Gilding. Diluted so- 
 lution of chloride of copper produces a 
 black discoloration on imitation gild- 
 ing, but has no effect whatever upon 
 the genuine, b. Silvering. A mixture 
 of equal parts of bi-chromate of potas- 
 sium and nitric acid -produces a red 
 coloration on genuine silvering, while 
 it has no effect upon the imitation. 
 
 Milk. Besides the common method 
 of diluting milk with water, another 
 species of adulteration has recently 
 been detected. It is now frequently 
 sophisticated with dextrine. This 
 fraud can easily be detected by means 
 of a Solution of iodine ; if the specimen 
 contains the smallest quantity of dex- 
 trine, it will acquire a red color. 
 
 Adulteration of Wax with Tallow. 
 Wax floats in alcohol of 29. By ob- 
 serving the strength of the alcohol in 
 which the sample floats, the percentage 
 of wax may be deduced as follows : 
 
 If the alcoholometer 
 shows : 
 
 29 
 
 39.63 
 
 50.25 
 
 60.87 
 
 71.50 
 
 The wax contains 
 wax : 
 
 100 per cent. 
 75 " " 
 50 " " 
 25 " " 
 " " 
 
ADULTERATIONS, IMITATIONS, ETC. 
 
 To Test Dyes for Adulteration. Red 
 dyes must neither color soap solution 
 nor limewater, nor must they them- 
 selves become yellow or brown after 
 boiling. This test shows the presence 
 or absence of Brazil-wood, archil, saf- 
 flower, sanders-wood or the aniline 
 colors. Yellow dyes must stand being 
 boiled with alcohol, water and lime 
 water. The most stable yellow is 
 madder yellow ; the least stable are 
 anotto and turmeric, while fustic is 
 rather better. Blue dyes must not 
 color alcohol red, nor must they de- 
 compose on boiling with hydrochloric 
 acid. The best purple colors are com- 
 posed of indigo and cochineal or pur- 
 purin. The test for blue applies also 
 to them. Orange dyes must not color 
 water, boiling water, alcohol, nor hy- 
 drochloric acid green. Brown dyes 
 must not lose their color on standing 
 with alcohol, or on boiling with water. 
 If black colors have a basis of indigo, 
 they turn green or blue on boiling with 
 sodium carbonate ; if the dye be pure 
 gallnuts, it turns brown. If the 
 material changes to red, on boiling 
 with hydrochloric acid, the coloring 
 substance is logwood without a basis 
 of indigo, and is not durable. If it 
 changes to blue, indigo is present. 
 
 To Detect Alum in Red Wine. Boil 
 a sample of the wine for a few minutes. 
 Pure wine remains unchanged, while 
 the adulterated article becomes turbid. 
 
 Simple Method for Distinguishing 
 Genuine Butter from Artificial. Heat 
 the suspected butter in a crucible or 
 test-tube, to about 300 to 320 F. At 
 this temperature artificial butter froths 
 but little, and the mass exhibits irregu- 
 lar movements resembling those of boil- 
 ing, accompanied by sudden, forcible 
 shocks which frequently throw a part 
 of the fat from the crucible. Casein at 
 the same time is separated and forms 
 on the edge of the crucible in small 
 balls, which assume a brown tint, while 
 the fat retains its original color. Genu- 
 ine butter, under these circumstances, 
 foams copiously, the agitation occa- 
 sioned by boiling is not nearly so forci- 
 ble, and the entire mass assumes a uni- 
 form brown color. 
 
 W. G. Crock melts and filters the 
 suspected butter. He then takes 10 
 grains of this, heats it in a test-glass, 
 
 150.8 F,, then adds 30 minims of phe- 
 nole, shakes the mixture and heats it 
 in a water bath until the fluid becomes 
 transparent. The test-glass is then al- 
 lowed to stand quietly for some time. 
 Genuine butter will give a clear solu- 
 tion, but suet, tallow or lard forms two 
 separate layers of fluid, the upper of 
 which becomes turbid on cooling. 
 
 ALLOYS. 
 
 Alloys for Tea Pots. 88.55 parts of 
 tin, 9.53 of antimony, 9.94 of zinc, 0.88 
 of copper. 
 
 Oroide. This alloy, resembling gold 
 (specific gravity 8.79), consists of U8.21 
 parts of copper, 13.52 of zinc, 0.48 of 
 tin and 0.24 of iron. 
 
 Britannia Metal. Roller prepares 
 this as follows : 85.72 parts of tin, 10.34 
 of antimony, 2.91 of zinc, 0.78 of 
 copper. 
 
 Alloys for Taking Impressions of 
 Coins, Medals, Wood Cuts, etc. Melt 
 at as moderate a heat as possible, 4 
 parts of bismuth, 2i of lead, 2 of tin 
 and 1 of worn-out metal types. 
 
 Chrysorine. This alloy, in color, 
 closely resembles 18 to 20 carat gold. 
 It has a beautiful lustre and does not 
 tarnish when exposed to the air. It 
 consists of 100 parts of copper and 50 
 of zinc. It is used, like Prince's metal, 
 for watch cases and parts of the works. 
 
 Prince's metal consists of 6 parts of 
 copper and 1 of tin, and resembles gold 
 in color. 
 
 Pinchbeck. This alloy, resembling 
 gold in color, derives its name from the 
 English town Pinchbeck, where it was 
 first manufactured, and consists of 90 
 parts of copper and 30 of zinc. 
 
 Robertson's Alloy for Filling Teeth. 
 1 part of gold, 3 of silver and 2 of tin. 
 First melt the gold and silver in a cru- 
 cible, and at the moment of fusion add 
 the tin. The alloy, when cold, may 
 be finely pulverized. Equal quantities 
 of the powder and mercury are kneaded 
 together in the palm of the hand to 
 form a paste for filling teeth. 
 
 Aluminium Alloys. Aluminium 
 forms alloys with many metals. Those 
 with copper, silver and tin are to some 
 extent employed for technical purposes, 
 the most important being those with 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 copper, with which aluminium can 
 easily be alloyed. Lange & Sons have 
 obtained a patent in the United States 
 for an alloy consisting of 95 parts of 
 aluminium and 5 of copper, which is 
 malleable, and used for clock springs. 
 Ten parts of aluminium and 90 of copper 
 give a hard alloy, but nevertheless 
 ductile. It takes a high polish, resem- 
 bles gold and is but little attacked by 
 ammonium hydrosulphide. 
 
 Aluminium Jironses contain from 6 
 to 10 per cent, of aluminium. They 
 are prepared by fusing chemically pure 
 copper with aluminium. Aluminium 
 bronze, consisting of 90 parts of copper 
 and 10 of aluminium, is used more than 
 any other composition. It gives sharp 
 castings, is more easily worked than 
 steel, may be engraved, rolled in sheets, 
 and when exposed to the air suffers 
 less change than brass, silver, cast- 
 iron or steel. It is serviceable for orna- 
 mental articles, household utensils, 
 parts of geodetical and astronomical 
 instruments, pivots, gun and cannon 
 barrels. Aluminium bronze can only 
 be soldered with an aluminium alloy. 
 
 Aluminium Alloy for Soldering Alu- 
 minium. I. Melt 20 parts of alumin- 
 ium in a crucible. Then add gradu- 
 ally 80 part of zinc, and when this is 
 melted some fat. Stir the mass with 
 an iron rod and pour into moulds. 
 
 II. Take 15 parts of aluminium and 
 85 of zinc. 
 
 III. Or, 12 parts of aluminium and 
 88 of zinc. 
 
 IV. Or, 8 parts of aluminium and 
 92 of zinc. All these alloys are pre- 
 pared as indicated above. 
 
 The flux consists of a mixture of 3 
 parts of copaiba balsam, 1 of Venetian 
 turpentine and a few drops of Icrnon 
 juice. The soldering iron is dipped 
 into this mixture. 
 
 Silver and Aluminium, are very 
 easily alloyed. The alloys are harder 
 than aluminium, but more easily 
 worked. 
 
 An alloy of 3 parts of silver and 97 
 of aluminium has a beautiful color, 
 and is not affected by ammonium hydro- 
 sulphide. 
 
 Equal parts by weight of silver and 
 aluminium give an alloy as hard as 
 bronze. 
 
 An alloy of 5 parts of silver and 100 
 
 of aluminium can be worked like pure 
 aluminium. It is harder than the lat- 
 ter, and takes a very high polish. 
 
 An alloy with one-tenth per cent, of 
 gold is as ductile as pure aluminium, 
 but harder, although not as hard as 
 that with 5 parts of silver. 
 
 An alloy of 95 per cent, of aluminium 
 and 5 of silver is white, elastic and 
 hard. It is used for blades of dessert 
 and fruit knives. 
 
 Gold and A luminium. 99 parts of 
 gold and 1 of aluminium give a very 
 hard but not ductile alloy, possessing 
 the color of green gold. 
 
 An alloy of 90 parts of gold and 10 
 of aluminium is white, crystalline and 
 brittle. 
 
 Ninety-five parts of gold and 5 of alu- 
 minium give an alloy as brittle as 
 glass. 
 
 An alloy, the color of which re- 
 sembles gold so closely as to defy de- 
 tection, is obtained by fusing together 
 90 to 100 parts of copper, 5 to 7i of 
 aluminium, and 2^ of gold. The re- 
 sulting alloy is used for jewelry as a 
 substitute for gold. 
 
 Zinc and Aluminium. These alloys 
 are very hard and take a beautiful 
 polish. 3 parts of zinc and 97 of alu- 
 minium give an alloy as white as the 
 pure metal, very ductile and harder 
 than aluminium. It is the best of all 
 alloys of zinc with aluminium. 
 
 An alloy of 30 parts of aluminium 
 and 70 of zinc is white, very brittle 
 and crystalline. 
 
 Tin and aluminium give brittle al- 
 loys when they contain little tin and 
 much aluminium, but those with a 
 small quantity of the latter are very 
 ductile, and may be used as substitutes 
 for tin. They are harder and moro 
 elastic. 
 
 An alloy of 3 parts of aluminium 
 and 100 of tin is hard, and but little 
 affected by acids. 
 
 Five parts of aluminium and 95 to 
 100 of tin give a useful alloy. 
 
 With bismuth and platinum alu- 
 minium gives very brittle alloys. 
 
 Lead and aluminium do not alloy. 
 
 With iron aluminium alloys so easily 
 that the iron rods used in preparing 
 aluminium become coated with a lus- 
 trous covering, giving them the ap- 
 pearance of being tinned. 
 
ALLOYS. 
 
 According to Tissier, a slight per- 
 centage of iron exerts an injurious in- 
 fluence upon aluminium. He claims 
 that 5 per cent, makes the aluminium 
 hard and biittle, and so refractory that 
 the pure metal can be fused upon the 
 alloy. Debray, on the other hand, 
 asserts that 7 to 9 per cent, of iron pro- 
 duces no perceptible change in the 
 properties of aluminium. Iron can be 
 easily separated from aluminium by 
 fusing the alloy with saltpetre, which 
 oxidizes the iron. 
 
 Royer claims that the presence of 
 aluminium in steel makes it very 
 hard, and gives to it the properties 
 of "wootz," or Indian steel. When 
 steel contains but 0.008 per cent, of 
 aluminium, the articles manufactured 
 from it, when etched with sulphuric 
 acid, will show wavy lines like Da- 
 mascus steel. 
 
 A mericu n Sleigh Bells. These bells, 
 excelling in beauty, fine tone and small 
 specific weight, are manufactured by 
 fusing together 10 parts of nickel and 
 60 parts of copper. When this alloy 
 has become cold, add 10 parts of zinc 
 and two-fifths parts of aluminium, fu.se 
 the mass and allow it to cool ; then 
 remelt it with the addition of two- 
 fifths parts of mercury and 60 parts 
 of melted copper. 
 
 Platinum Bronze. By alloying nickel 
 with a small quantity of platinum, it 
 loses its slight tendency to oxidation, 
 and is not affected by acetic acid. To 
 prepare the alloy, the nickel is fused 
 with the platinum and definite quan- 
 tities of tin, without the aid of a flux- 
 ing agent. The following alloys may 
 be used: 
 
 PARTS. 
 
 Plati- Sil^ 
 
 Nickel, num. Tin. ver. 
 
 For knives and forks . 100 1 10 
 
 " bells 100 1 20 2 
 
 " fancy articles . . 100 15 
 " telescopes and ope- 
 ra glasses . . . 100 20 20 
 
 The following alloy will not oxidize : 
 10 parts of brass, 60 of ni< 
 
 120, 
 
 of platinum. 
 White Metal. 
 
 nickel, 5 to 10 
 
 Fuse together 750 
 parts of copper, 140 of nickel, 20 of 
 black cobaltic oxide, 18 of tin, 72 of 
 zinc. 
 
 Alloys Resembling Silver. I. 25 per 
 cent, of manganese, 55 of copper, and 
 20 of zinc. 
 
 II. 5 per cent, of manganese, 10 of 
 nickel, 45 of copper, and 40 of zinc. 
 
 III. 5 per cent, of iron, 20 of man- 
 ganese, 6.5 of nickel, and 57 of copper. 
 
 J\>K.' Sic/eel A Hoy. Fuse together in a 
 reverberatory furnace 20 cwt. of finely 
 powdered nickel sesquioxide and 1 to 2 
 cwt. of copper with 2 cwt. of fluor- 
 spar, or 1 cwt. of cryolite and 2 cwt. 
 of anthracite coal. Purify the result- 
 ing alloy in any known manner. 
 
 A nickel alloy in great demand for 
 technical purposes has been prepared 
 by Cliristoflc and Bowilhet. It consists 
 of 50 per cent, of nickel and 50 of 
 copper, can be easily remelted, and is 
 especially adapted for the manufacture 
 of argetan (German silver). An alloy 
 with 15 per cent, of nickel is remark- 
 able for its ductility, homogeneity and 
 white color. It can be rolled out into 
 sheets about one-twentieth millimetre 
 (0.019 inch) thick, and drawn out into 
 wire of any desired diameter. It is 
 used for ornaments of every kind. 
 
 Lntecine, or Paris Metal. Eight 
 hundred parts of copper, 160 of nickel, 
 20 of tin, 10 of cobalt, 5 of iron, and 5 
 of zinc. 
 
 A new and very Fusible Alloy. Fuse 
 a mixture of 79 per cent, of cast-iron, 
 19.50 of tin, and 1.50 of lead. This 
 alloy has a beautiful appearance, fills 
 the mould completely, and is therefore 
 well adapted for casting small articles. 
 It is malleable to a certain extent. 
 
 Wood's metal, fusing below 158 F., 
 consists of: 
 
 PARTS. 
 
 I. II. III. IV. 
 
 Bismuth . . . 49.87 49.89 49.81 49.72 
 
 Lead 26.81 26.73 26.80 26.'.)0 
 
 Tin 13.25 13.36 13.53 13.41 
 
 Cadmium . . . 10.13 9.93 9.69 10.10 
 
 According to Lipowits, an alloy con- 
 sisting of 3 parts of cadmium, 4 of tin, 
 8 of lead, and 15 of bismuth, becomes 
 soft between 122 and 140 F., and en- 
 tirely liquid at 140 F. ; while Wood 
 found that the mixture most easily 
 fusible became sufficiently liquid for 
 casting purposes at 159.8 *F. and con- 
 gealed at 150 F., and therefore he fixed 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL EECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 its melting point as between 150 and 
 159.8 F. The following proportions 
 give the lowest melting points in both 
 150 F. or very close to it : 
 
 PARTS. 
 
 Cadmium 
 Tin . . 
 Lead . . 
 Bismuth . 
 
 Type Metal. The following are 
 some of the principal alloys made for 
 this purpose : 
 
 
 PARTS. 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 
 ! 
 
 Type Metal. 
 
 . 
 
 | 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 " 
 ^ 
 
 ~1 
 
 
 1 
 
 "c 
 
 a 
 
 1 
 
 s i? 
 
 II 
 
 Ordinary . 
 French . 
 
 75-80 
 55 
 
 20-25 
 30 
 
 15 
 
 0.4 
 
 
 
 
 English . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 No. I . 
 
 55 
 
 22.7 
 
 22.3 
 
 
 
 
 
 English . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 No. 2 . 
 
 61.3 
 
 18.5 
 
 20.7 
 
 
 
 
 
 English . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 No. 3 . 
 
 69.2 
 
 19.5 
 
 9.1 
 
 1.7 
 
 
 
 
 Ehrhardt's 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 No. 1 . 
 
 3 
 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 80 
 
 
 
 Ehrhardt's 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 No. 2 . 
 
 2 
 
 
 3 
 
 2 93 
 
 
 
 Besley's . 
 
 100 
 
 30 
 
 20 
 
 8 
 
 
 8 
 
 5 2 
 
 Caiubrien's 
 
 
 
 
 50 
 
 
 
 
 Alloy for Music- Printing Plates, etc. 
 Ten parts of tin, 12 of zinc, 3 of anti- 
 mony regulus, 1 of copper, and 74 of 
 lead. Jean, who introduced this corn- 
 pound, calls it "heterogeneous al- 
 loy." 
 
 Spence's Metal. This new com- 
 pound, discovered by Spence, and used 
 in England for manifold purposes, is 
 obtained by melting the three sulphides 
 of iron, zinc and lead Avith sulphur. 
 The product is a dark gray mass of 
 great tenacity, small power of conduct- 
 ing heat, a specific gravity of 3.4, and 
 melting point at about 320 F. In 
 congealing it expands like bismuth 
 and type metal, and resists in a remark- 
 able degree the action of atmospheric 
 influences, alkalies and acids, even of 
 aqua regia ; its surface being scarcely 
 affected after having been exposed to 
 the action of the latter for four weeks. 
 Its property of expanding in congeal- 
 
 ing, and therefore filling completely all 
 depressions of the mould, makes it par- 
 ticularly available for castings. If the 
 compound is poured upon a plate on 
 which the impression of the hand has 
 been made, the cast will show all the 
 lines and pores of the palm. 
 
 In England it has been lately used 
 for jointing gas and water pipes. 
 
 New Alloys for Journal Boxes. 
 
 Babbitt's English White 
 
 Metal. Metal. 
 
 , . 5 per cent. 33.0 per cent. 
 4 
 
 Lead . . . 
 
 Copper . . . 
 Zinc . . . 
 Antimony . . 
 Tin .... 
 Specific gravity 
 Melting point 
 
 3 
 
 19 
 
 8.32 
 
 170 F. 
 
 2.4 
 1.0 
 10.6 
 53.0 
 7.22 
 
 290 F. 
 
 Alloys for Dental Purjioses. 
 PARTS. 
 
 A. B. C. 
 
 Tin 91.63 36.78 51.72 
 
 Silver 3.82 48.32 34.35 
 
 Copper 4.4 
 
 Gold 14.72 
 
 Mercury 8.52 
 
 Manganese Bronze. Fifty per cent, of 
 sesquioxide of manganese, 35 of cupric 
 oxide, 15 of coal, all finely powdered. 
 To this are added 2i to 10 parts of 
 organic substance, as tar, starch (2 
 parts of starch and 3 of water), etc. 
 
 Alloys which can be rolled when at 
 a red heat consist of: 
 
 PARTS. 
 
 T. ii. in? 
 
 Manganese .... 2550 13.00 22.25 
 
 Copper 54.50 55.50 52.25 
 
 Zinc 20.00 31.50 25.50 
 
 If it is not necessary for the alloy to be 
 rolled while red hot, iron may advan- 
 tageously be introduced. The follow- 
 ing proportions may be used : 
 
 I. II. 
 
 Iron . . . 5.88 per cent. 5.00 per cent. 
 
 Manganese . 26.35 " 20.00 
 
 Copper . . 56.00 " 57.00 
 
 Zinc . . . 11.77 " 11.50 " 
 
 Nickel . . 6.50 
 
 The alloys are very white, and, when 
 cast and worked, give a very clear tone, 
 making them available for spoons and 
 forks. 
 
ALLOYS. 
 
 Unalterable Alloy. This is used for 
 objects of art, imitation jewelry, etc. It 
 has a yellowish-red tint, and when 
 treated with polysulphides, chloride of 
 antimony, chloride of arsenic, etc., it 
 becomes coated with a black patina, 
 capable of being polished. It consists 
 of 70 to 73 per cent, of copper, 2 to 11 
 of tin, 15 to 20 of lead, 0.5 to 1 of zinc. 
 
 Chinese and Japanese Bronzes. Some 
 bronzes exhibited at the last Paris Ex- 
 hibition attracted especial attention, 
 not only on account of their artistic 
 beauty, but also on account of the un- 
 usually deep bronze color, which in 
 many specimens presented a beautiful 
 dead black appearance. The color, 
 which was doubtless intended to con- 
 trast with the silver of the filigree work, 
 was proved to belong to the substance 
 proper of the bronze, and not to have 
 been artificially produced by an ap- 
 plication upon its surface. Analysis 
 of the different specimens of the bronze 
 gave the following results : 
 
 PARTS. 
 
 I. II. III. 
 
 Tin 4.36 5.52 7.27 
 
 Copper 82.72 72.09 72.32 
 
 Lead 9.9 20.31 14 f>9 
 
 Iron 0.55 1.73 0.28 
 
 Zinc 1.86 0.67 6.00 
 
 \rsenic traces 
 
 99.39 100.32 100.46 
 
 These alloys contain a much larger 
 proportion of lead than is found in 
 ordinary bronze; and it is noticeable 
 that the quantity of lead augments pre- 
 cisely with the intensity of the bronze 
 color, proving, as before stated, that the 
 latter is due to the special composition 
 of the bronze. 
 
 Some of the specimens contain a con- 
 
 siderable proportion of zinc, but the 
 presence of this metal, i: 
 
 instead of im- 
 
 proving the appearance, seemed rather 
 to counterbalance the effect of the lead. 
 In imitation of the Chinese bronze, 
 some alloys were made of the following 
 composition : 
 
 I. II. 
 
 Tin 5.5 parts. 5.0 parts. 
 
 Copper 72.5 " 83.0 " 
 
 Lead 20.0 " 10.0 " 
 
 Iron 1.5 " 
 
 Zinc 0.5 " 2.0 " 
 
 No. I. produced an alloy exceed- 
 ingly difficult to work, ana, without 
 giving any superior results as regards 
 color, furnished castings which were 
 extremely brittle. 
 
 No. II., on the contrary, gave an 
 alloy exactly resembling the Chinese 
 bronze. Its fracture and polish Were 
 identical, and when heated in a muffle 
 it quickly assumed the peculiar dead- 
 black appearance so greatly admired 
 in the Chinese specimens. 
 
 Hitherto it has been found difficult, 
 if not impossible, to obtain this depth 
 of color with bronzes of modern art; 
 since the surface scales off when heated 
 under similar conditions. 
 
 Bronze for Objects of Art. The pro- 
 portions used by Keller Bros., during 
 the time of Louis XIV., are generally 
 employed in Paris at the present day. 
 The bronze consists of 91.60 per cent, of 
 copper, 5.33 of zinc, 1.70 of tin, and 1.37 
 of lead. Somewhat more zinc is taken 
 for articles to be gilded. 
 
 Chinese Silver. 2.05 parts of silver. 
 65.24 of copper, 19.52 of zinc, 13 of 
 nickel, 0.12 of cobalt and iron. Uten- 
 sils of every kind manufactured from 
 this alloy are, it is claimed, preferable 
 to silver, as they are not affected by 
 boiling vinegar, as is the case with 
 genuine and German silver. 
 
 Composition for Metal Stop Cocks 
 which deposits no Verdigris. Seventy- 
 two parts of zinc, 21 of tin, and 7 of 
 copper. 
 
 Alloy for Anti-friction Brasses. 
 Eighty parts of zinc, 14 of tin, 5 of 
 copper, and 1 of nickel. 
 
 Fenton's Alloy for Axle Boxes for Lo- 
 comotives and Wagons. Eighty parts 
 of zinc, 5} of copper, 14V of tin. This 
 alloy may be recommended as regards 
 cheapness and lightness. Experiments 
 have shown that boxes of this alloy 
 require but half as much oil for lubri- 
 cating as others. The components can 
 be melted in an ordinary iron boiler, 
 and the alloy is less difficult to work 
 than brass. 
 
 ENGLISH COPPER ALLOYS, 
 
 Brass. Thirty parts of zinc and 70 
 of copper, in small pieces. 
 
 Brass for Turned Articles. One 
 hundred parts of copper, 50 parts of 
 zinc, and i 3 5 to 1^ parts of lead. 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Red Bronze for Turned Articles. 
 One hundred and twenty parts of cop- 
 per, 25 parts of zinc, 2 parts of lead. 
 The lead is added during casting. 
 
 Another Receipt. Eighty parts of 
 copper, 25 of zinc, 5 of lead, and 1.3 of 
 antimony. 
 
 First Quality of Bronze for Castings. 
 One hundred and twenty parts of cop- 
 per, 25 of zinc, tu of bismuth. 
 
 Ordinary Bronze for Castings. One 
 hundred parts of copper, t>i of zinc, 
 12* of tin. 
 
 Bronze for Hard Castings. Twenty- 
 five parts of copper, 2 of zinc, 4 of 
 tin, 
 
 Bronze. Seven parts of copper, 3 of 
 zinc, and 2 of tin ; or, 1 part of copper, 
 12 of zinc, and 8 of tin. 
 
 Coin Metal. Six parts of copper 
 and 4 of tin. This alloy can be rolled, 
 and is treated warm. 
 
 Metal for Gongs and Bells. One 
 hundred parts of copper with about 
 25 of tin. To give this alloy a very 
 clear tone, the castings are heated, and 
 then dipped in cold water. 
 
 Another Receipt. A composition of 
 78 parts of copper and 22 of tin gives 
 very satisfactory results, and can be 
 rolled. 
 
 Bell Metal (Best Quality). Seventy- 
 one parts of copper, 26 of tin, 2 of zinc, j 
 and 1 of iron. 
 
 For Large Bells. One hundred parts 
 of copper and 20 to 25 of tin. 
 For Small Bells. Three parts of 
 copper and 1 of tin. 
 
 Bronze for Cocks. Twenty parts of 
 copper, 8 of lead, i of litharge, li of an- 
 timony. 
 
 Statuary Bronze. 91.4 parts of cop- 
 per, 5.53 of zinc, 1.7 of tin, 1.37 of lead ; 
 or, 80 parts of copper and 20 of tin. 
 
 Bronze for Medals. Fifty parts of 
 copper and 4 of tin. 
 
 Jironzefor Rivets. Sixty-four parts 
 of copper and 1 of tin. 
 
 Bronze for Ornaments. Eighty-two 
 parts of copper, 3 of tin, 18 of zinc, 2 
 of lead ; or, 83 parts of copper, 17 of 
 zinc, 1 of tin, and of lead. 
 
 New Alloy Resembling Gold. (Pat- 
 ented by Meiffren of Marseilles. ) Eight 
 hundred parts of copper, 25 of plati- 
 num, and 20 of tungstic acid are melted 
 
 together with a flux in a crucible. The 
 mass, when melted, is granulated by 
 pouring it into alkaline water. The 
 alloy is then melted with 170 parts of 
 gold. 
 
 To Prepare an Alloy Resembling 
 Silver. Sixty-five parts of iron are 
 melted with 4 of tungstic acid, and 
 granulated ; and also 23 parts of nickel, 
 5 of aluminium, and 5 of copper. To 
 avoid oxidation, a piece of sodium is 
 placed in the crucible. The granulated 
 metals are then melted together. This 
 alloy resists the action of hydrogen 
 sulphide. 
 
 Alloy for Imitation Gold and Silver 
 Wires. In place of copper, generally 
 used, Helouis of Paris employs argen- 
 tan, composed as follows : 70 per cent, 
 of copper, 15 of nickel, and 15 of zinc. 
 From this alloy he has drawn wire as 
 fine as 0.01 inch in diameter. 
 
 Min argent. This new alloy contains 
 100 parts of copper, 70 of nickel, 5 of 
 tungsten, and 1 of aluminium. 
 
 
 PAKTS. 
 
 ! Composition of some 
 Alloys. 
 
 1 
 
 c 
 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 
 JL 
 
 g 
 
 s 
 
 
 
 
 Ordinary sheet brass 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 and wire. N<>. 1 . 
 
 70 
 
 
 30 
 
 
 
 Ordinary sheet brass 
 and wire, No. 2 . 
 
 64.8 
 
 0.4 
 
 32.8 
 
 2 
 
 
 Brass of a light yel- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 low color . . . 66.6 
 
 
 33.3 
 
 
 
 Tombac .... 
 
 83.4 
 
 
 16.6 
 
 
 
 Red brass .... 
 
 91 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Bell metal . . . 
 
 80 
 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 Gun metal and med- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 al bronze . . . 
 
 90 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 Alloy for journal 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 boxes, soft . 
 
 82 
 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Allov for journal 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 boxes, hard . . 122.2 
 
 33.3 
 
 
 
 44.4 
 
 Alloy for valves and 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 piston rings . . 
 
 80 
 
 60 
 
 
 1.25 
 
 
 Alloy for chilled 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 work No. 1 
 
 5 
 
 
 85 
 
 
 10 
 
 Alloy for chilled 
 
 work No. 2 . . 
 
 5.5 
 
 14.5 
 
 80 
 
 
 
 Alloy for chilled 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 work No. :i . . 
 
 2 
 
 80 
 
 
 
 18 
 
 Alloy for chilled 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 work white, and 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 
 brittle . . . j 
 
 13.3 73 3 
 
 
 
 13.4 
 
 Alloy for gongs . . 
 Statuary metal . . 
 
 80 20 
 91.4 1.7 
 
 5.33 
 
 1.37 
 
 
ARTIFICIAL GEMS. 
 
 9 
 
 ARTIFICIAL GEMS, PEARLS, AND 
 TURKISH BEADS. 
 
 The art of imitating gems consists 
 simply in the production of a glass 
 possessing greater hardness and density 
 than the ordinary product, and colored 
 to simulate the precious stones. These 
 properties are imparted to the flux, 
 partly by special treatment, partly by 
 admixtures, but principally by the 
 purity of the substances used. Besides 
 the essential components, lead oxide, 
 minium, etc., are added to the fluxes. 
 These impart greater density to the 
 glass, more lustre and specific gravity. 
 But too much lead oxide must be 
 avoided, as it disintegrates the surface 
 and spoils the lustre. A great degree 
 of hardness can be obtained by using 
 large proportions of silica, but the flux 
 becomes refractory, to prevent which 
 borax is added. 
 
 The following requisites will be neces- 
 sary for mixing a good flux : 
 
 1. Pure silica. It is best to use for this finely- 
 
 powdered rck crystal. 
 
 2. Pure potash or soda. 
 
 3. Borax. 
 
 4. Lead oxide, carbonate, or minium. 
 
 5. A little saltpetre, partly to promote the 
 
 fusion, but especially to destroy by oxida- 
 tion any carbonaceous impurities which 
 might injure the color. 
 
 6. A metallic oxide to give color to the flux ; 
 
 but of this usually very little must be 
 taken. 
 
 It is best to fuse the mass in a new 
 Hessian crucible. It is filled about 
 half full with the flux, which has been 
 finely powdered and sifted through a 
 fine sieve, and is then covered with a 
 clay plate. 
 
 The glass-melting furnace manufac- 
 tured by Th. Jesem, of Berlin, is de- 
 cidedly the best to use. It has been 
 introduced almost everywhere, as it 
 excels in suitability of construction and 
 cheapness. Fig. 3 represents a cross- 
 section of this furnace, a is the gas- 
 conducting pipe from which the pipes 
 b b branch oft*. 
 
 The upper end of the pipes b is bent 
 inward. The gas flame is under the 
 fire-brick furnace k, the thick walls of 
 which form the hearth. The bottom 
 is provided with an opening through 
 which the gases enter into the crucible 
 A, placed exactly over it, in order to 
 
 circulate around the actual crucible/ 
 containing the flux, and resting upon a 
 support of fire-clay e, and the movable 
 " c. The gases, after playing around 
 "in the cover 
 
 ffl 
 
 /, pass out through a hole 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 of the crucible h and then around and 
 down the walls of h towards the escape 
 pipe. The cover i moves on a hinge 
 joint. 
 
 Schrader, who made these combina- 
 tions a special study for many years, 
 uses the following mixture for fluxes. 
 Powder and mix : 
 
 Rock crystal 29.23 parts. 
 
 Dry sodium carbonate .... 14.61 " 
 
 Calcined borax 10.96 " 
 
 Minium 7.20 " 
 
 Saltpetre 1.21 to 3.65 ' 
 
 The mixture is fused in the manner 
 indicated above. 
 
 A harder flux is obtained by mixing 
 the following proportions : 
 
 Hock crystal 43.84 parts. 
 
 Powdered dry sodium carbonate . 14.61 ' 
 Calcined and powdered borax . 10.96 " 
 
 Minium 7.'20 
 
 Saltpetre 1,21 '* 
 
TECIINO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Pure flint finely powdered may be 
 used instead of rock crystal, or white 
 powdered glass, but in the latter ca.se 
 some white arsenic must be added to 
 obtain the frit entirely colorless. 
 
 A flux so hard that it will emit sparks 
 when struck with a steel can be pre- 
 pared from the following substances : 
 
 Powdered glass 29.23 parts. 
 
 Rock crystal 10.90 
 
 Minium 10.96 
 
 Calcined borax 7.20 
 
 Saltpetre 2.43 
 
 Arsenic 0.60 
 
 Donault- Wieland recommends the 
 following proportions : 
 
 PARTS. 
 
 I. II. III. IV. 
 Bock crystal ... 300 300 HO 
 
 Minium 470 462 1U) 
 
 Potash purified with 
 
 alcohol 163 163 96 
 
 Borax 22 18 27 66 
 
 Arsenious acid . . . 1 % 1 5 
 Very white sand . . 300 
 
 Very pure white lead . 514 
 
 Saltpetre 22 
 
 These fluxes furnish the 
 which is the basis for the manufacture 
 of artificial gems. 
 
 Ruby. The following mixtures, ac- 
 cording to Schrader, are the best for 
 manufacturing imitations of this beau- 
 tiful gem. Powder and mix : 
 
 PARTS. 
 
 Bock crystal . . . 
 Pry sodium carbonate 
 Calcined borax 
 Saltpetre .... 
 Purple of Cassius . 
 Antimony trisulphide 
 Manganese peroxide 
 
 Minium 
 
 Sal ammoniac . 
 
 I. 
 
 29.23 
 14.61 
 10.96 
 5.47 
 3.65 
 0.48 
 0.48 
 10.96 
 
 II. 
 
 29.23 
 14.61 
 
 4.84 
 2.43 
 0.91 
 
 3.65 
 
 D. (7. Splittyerber gives the following 
 receipt for a beautiful ruby glass : 
 
 Fine white quartz sand .... 1650.0 parts. 
 
 Dry white soda 966.6 " 
 
 Chalk, marble, or calcium car- 
 bonate 433.3 " 
 
 White arsenic 133.3 " 
 
 Minium 150.0 " 
 
 Antimony bisulphide .... 133.3 " 
 
 Mix the sand intimately with a solu- 
 tion of a ducat (about two dollars gold 
 value) and then add the other ingre- 
 dients. Expose the mixture for thirty 
 
 hours to a white heat in a plate-glass 
 furnace. When poured out and cold it 
 is entirely colorless and transparent, 
 and only assumes a beautiful ruby color 
 after heating to a moderate red heat, 
 932 F. If exposed to a very strong 
 heat it acquires a liver color. Glass 
 prepared with purple of Cassius has a 
 more violet shade of color. 
 Sapphire. Powder and mix : 
 
 PARTS. 
 
 Bock crystal 43.84 
 
 Sodium carbonate .... 21.92 
 
 Calcined borax 7.20 
 
 Minium 7.20 
 
 Saltpetre 3.65 
 
 Cobalt carbonate 0.06 
 
 Copper carbonate 
 
 II. 
 2!i.23 
 14.61 
 10.96 
 5.47 
 1.82 
 
 1.82 
 
 Emerald. This is prepared with 
 copper and iron. Powder and mix : 
 
 Bock crystal 43.84 parts. 
 
 Dry sodium carbonate .... 21.92 ' 
 
 Calcined borax 7.20 " 
 
 Minium 7.20 " 
 
 Saltpetre - . . . 3.65 " 
 
 Red ferric oxide 1.21 ' 
 
 Green copper carbonate .... 0.60 " 
 
 A beautiful green is obtained by 
 using the following ingredients. Pow- 
 der and mix : 
 
 Bock crystal 43.84paits. 
 
 Dry sodium carbonate .... 14.61 " 
 
 Calcined borax 7.20 " 
 
 Minium 7.20 " 
 
 Saltpetre 2.43 " 
 
 Cobalt carbonate 0.09 " 
 
 Chrome green 0.30 " 
 
 Uranic oxide, which, as a general 
 rule, gives yellow colors shading only 
 slightly into green, furnishes an emer- 
 ald green when used in the following 
 proportions. Powder and mix : 
 
 Rock crystal . . 36. J 3 parts. 
 
 Dry sodium carbonate .... 1U.96 " 
 
 Minium I.'M " 
 
 Saltpetre 3.65 " 
 
 Uranic oxide 2.43 " 
 
 Green copper carbonate . . . 0.18 " 
 
 Stannic oxide 0.18 " 
 
 Calcined bones 0.18 ' 
 
 Chrysoprase. The following mixture 
 is decidedly the best for imitating the 
 transparent, apple-green color of Jiis 
 stone. Powder and mix : 
 
ARTIFICIAL GEMS. 
 
 11 
 
 Bock crystal 43.84 parts. 
 
 Dry sodium carbonate .... 14. 01 " 
 
 Calcined borax 10.90 " 
 
 Minium 7.20 
 
 Saltpetre 1.21 
 
 Calcined bones 7.20 
 
 Copper carbonate 0.12 
 
 Ferric oxide 0.24 
 
 Chrome green 0.36 
 
 This mixture gives the dark chryso- 
 prase. 
 
 A lighter shade is obtained by taking 
 one-quarter of the three metallic oxides, 
 but retaining the same proportions of 
 the other ingredients. Several differ- 
 ent shades can be produced by varying 
 the proportions of the three metallic 
 oxides. 
 
 Opal. Powder and mix : 
 
 Rock crystal 32.29 parts. 
 
 Sodium carbonate 10.96 " 
 
 Calcined borax 7.20 " 
 
 Minium 5.47 
 
 Saltpetre 0.91 
 
 Purple of Cassias 0.06 
 
 Calcined bones 0.09 
 
 Silver chloride 0.12 
 
 Beryl, or Aqua Marine. Powder 
 and mix : 
 
 Rock crystal 43.84 parts. 
 
 Sodium carbonate 14.61 
 
 Calcined borax 10.9 > 
 
 Minium 7.20 
 
 Saltpetre 3.65 
 
 Ferric oxide 0.36 
 
 Copper carbonate 0.12 
 
 Instead of the last two ingredients 
 the following may be used : 
 
 Ferric oxide 0.24 parts. 
 
 Cobalt carbonate 0.01 " 
 
 Hyacinth. Antimony trioxide and 
 antimony trisulphide have been recom- 
 mended for this. By adding to this 
 mixture manganese, or manganese with 
 some iron, 
 
 Garnet is obtained as follows : Pow- 
 der and mix : 
 
 Rock crystal 32.20 parts. 
 
 Sodium carbonate 10.!><> " 
 
 Calcined borax 7.u:5 " 
 
 Minium 5.47 " 
 
 Saltpetre 2.43 " 
 
 Pyrolusite 0.30 " 
 
 Ferric oxide 0.18 " 
 
 If a brighter color is desired add 0.06 
 parts of purple of Cassius to the mix- 
 ture. 
 
 Tourmaline of a reddis h - brown 
 Color is obtained by using nickel. 
 Powder and mix : 
 
 Rock crystal 29.23 parts. 
 
 Sodium carbonate 14.61 " 
 
 Calcined borax 10.96 " 
 
 Minium 5.47 " 
 
 Saltpetre 5.47 " 
 
 Nickel sesquioxide 0.48 " 
 
 Tourmaline of a greenish-blue Color. 
 This is obtained by powdering and 
 mixing : 
 
 Glass . . . . 
 Rock crystal 
 Minium . . . 
 Calcined borax 
 Saltpetn 
 
 .... 58 44 parts. 
 
 .... 21.92 " 
 
 .... 21.92 " 
 
 .... 14.61 " 
 
 .... 2.43 " 
 
 Cobalt carbonate 0.09 " 
 
 Topaz and Chrysolite may accident- 
 ally be obtained if iron should be 
 present in the mixture. They may also 
 be produced by using 0.30 parts of yel- 
 low uranic oxide in the above mixture, 
 instead of cobaltic oxide. 
 
 Chrysolite. A good dark chrysolite 
 is obtained by powdering and mixing : 
 
 Rock crystal 21.92 parts. 
 
 Sodium carbonate 7.20 " 
 
 Calcined borax 5.47 " 
 
 Minium 3.65 " 
 
 Saltpetre 0.60 " 
 
 Pyrolusite 0.12 " 
 
 Amethyst is prepared by using radi- 
 ated pyrplusite, but not more than 0.06 
 parts of it must be taken for a frit pro- 
 ducing about 30 parts of flux. Pow- 
 dered glass in the proportion of 30 parts, 
 3.65 of saltpetre, and some borax and 
 minium gives also a good imitation of 
 the amethyst. 
 
 Lapis Lazuli. This is produced by 
 using a cobalt flux, to which is added 
 some admixture which will dim the 
 mass. Powder and mix : 
 
 Rock crystal 21 .92 parts. 
 
 Sodium carbonate 7.20 " 
 
 Calcined borax 5.47 
 
 Minium 3.65 
 
 Saltpetre 1.00 
 
 Calcined bones 3.65 
 
 Cobaltic oxide 0.12 
 
 Agate can be imitated by allowing 
 fragments of different fluxes to run to- 
 gether, stirring the mass in the mean- 
 while. 
 
12 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Schroder has obtained several varie- 
 ties of agate by mixing about 1.82 parts 
 of ferric oxide with 43.84 of flux. 
 
 R. Wagner suggests the following 
 method of producing artificial gems: 
 2 parts of pure silica (rock crystal), 1 
 of calcined soda, J of anhydrous borax, 
 ^s of lead oxide (massicot), are rubbed 
 together as intimately as possible, and 
 heated in a crucible for one hour with- 
 out allowing the mass to become 
 liquid. It is then brought into fusion 
 and kept so for one hour, when it is 
 allowed to congeal. It is then moder- 
 ately heated for 24 hours, and the re- 
 sulting flux taken from the crucible, 
 cut and ground. 
 
 This forms the base for the flux of 
 the artificial gems. The following 
 minerals 'are added as coloring sub- 
 stances : 
 
 Blue: Cobaltic oxide. 
 Yellow: Antimony pentoxide. 
 Green: Cupric oxide. 
 Red : Purple of Cassius. 
 Violet : Black oxide of manganese. 
 A rtificial Pearls. Geissler's Process. 
 The principal constituents of these 
 pearls are hollow glass beads, silver 
 from the scales of Cymrinus albuonus 
 (a species of carp), fish glue, isinglass, 
 and wax. The so-called silver is first 
 obtained from the scales of the fish, 
 cleansed, mixed with the dissolved 
 isinglass, and blown into the hollow 
 beads by means of a special apparatus. 
 While doing this the beads must be 
 constantly revolved in order that the 
 color may be uniformly deposited on 
 the sides. They are then allowed to 
 lie quietly for a few days to allow the 
 color to become dry and hard. Filling 
 the beads with wax gives them a more 
 beautiful and pellucid lustre and 
 greater durability. The manufacture 
 of artificial pearls is tedious, as every 
 pearl must be handled five or six times, 
 but as the work can be done by girls 
 and children, it is possible to produce 
 them at astonishing low prices. 
 
 Turkish Beads. Dissolve 4 parts of 
 catechu in 16 of rose water. Strain 
 and reduce the solution by boiling to 6 
 parts. Then add to it : 1 part of pow- 
 dered Florentine orris root, ^ of musk, 
 20 drops of oil of bergarnot or lavender, 
 and i part of swelled isinglass, and 
 knead the whole to a paste. Form of 
 
 this, first, round sticks, and then small 
 balls, either in the hollow of the hand 
 or by a special machine. Pierce the 
 balls with a needle dipped in oil of 
 almonds or of jasmine. Then pour oil 
 of alrnonda or of jasmine over them and 
 allow them to dry. Different colors 
 and perfumes can be given to them by 
 adding coloring substances and sweet 
 smelling oils. 
 
 BITTERS, CORDIALS, ELIXIRS, LI- 
 QUEURS, RATAFIAS AND ESSENCKS ; 
 EXTRACTS, TINCTURES AND WA- 
 TERS USED IN THEIR MANUFAC- 
 TURE, AND THE MANNER OF COLOR- 
 ING THEM. 
 
 Most of the bitters, cordials, liqueurs, 
 etc., are produced in the cold way, 
 either by mixing a solution of oil in 
 alcohol with a warm solution of sugar 
 in water, or by adding to this solution 
 tinctures or essences, and diluting the 
 mixture with the quantity of water 
 required. As every cordial or liqueur 
 appears turbid after mixing it, clarifi- 
 cation becomes necessary. For ordinary 
 qualities a solution of one-half ounce of 
 alum in a pint of water for every 20 
 gallons of cordial can be recommended, 
 and if this has not the desired effect, a 
 solution of one ounce of soda in a pint 
 of water may be added to the same 
 quantity of cordial. But for the finer 
 brands it is better to use a solution of 
 4 ounces of isinglass to a pint of water. 
 
 Mode of Coloring Cordials, Liqueurs, 
 etc. Cordials and liqueurs should be 
 colored after they have been filtered. 
 A large number of cordials are not 
 colored, especially anisette, bergamot, 
 calamus, cardamon, caraway, fennel 
 and maraschino. 
 
 Coffee, chocolate, cura9oa, nut, and 
 most bitters are colored brown. 
 
 Barbadoes and orange blossoms 
 cordials, dark yellow or orange. 
 
 Anise, lemon, orange and peach, 
 Dale yellow. 
 
 The cordials prepared from fresh 
 icrbs, green. 
 
 Cherry, gold water, raspberry, straw- 
 aerry, rose and nutmeg, red. We have 
 added the color required to most of our 
 receipts. 
 
 I. COLORING SUBSTANCES. Blue. 
 Dissolve i ounce of finely powdered 
 
BITTERS, CORDIALS, ESSENCES, ETC. 
 
 13 
 
 indigo in 2 ounces of sulphuric acid, 
 and add 6 ounces of water to the solu- 
 tion. 
 
 Green. I. Boil 2 parts of liquid 
 wash blue, 1 of powdered turmeric; 
 add some alum to the mixture and 
 filter it. 
 
 II. To obtain a fine green, mix the 
 tinctures of yellow and blue as given 
 under their respective headings. 
 
 Purple. Boil archil in water, and 
 add some alum. 
 
 Red, I. Crush i ounce of cochineal 
 and 15 grains of alum ; pour over the 
 powder 8 ounces of boiling water and 
 filter the fluid. The color is made 
 darker or lighter according to the 
 quantity of cochineal used. 
 
 II. Macerate 1 Ib. of bilberries in 2 
 quarts of alcohol for 2 days, press the 
 mass through a linen cloth and filter 
 the fluid. 
 
 III. Macerate 3 ounces of finely 
 powdered cochineal in 3 pints of alcohol 
 for 2 days, then add \ ounce of pow- 
 dered alum, and filter the fluid. 
 
 Yellow. I. Macerate 1 ounce of genu- 
 ine saffron in 3 pints of alcohol, and 
 then filter the fluid. 
 
 II. Take a quantity of marigolds 
 according to the shade of color to be 
 produced, steep them in alcohol, and 
 filter the fluid, when it has assumed 
 the desired shade of color. 
 
 II. ESSENCES, EXTRACTS, TINCT- 
 URES AND WATERS. Absinthe Tinct- 
 ure. Dissolve 2 fluid drachms of oil 
 of wormwood, 1-V fluid drachms of oil 
 of badian seed, li fluid drachms each 
 of oil of anise seed, oil of* fennel and oil 
 of coriander seed ; | fluid drachm each 
 oil of Crete marjoram (origan) and of 
 oil of angelica, and 20 drops of oil of 
 cardamon, 2 gallons of rectified spirits 
 of 90 per cent, Tr. ; dilute the solution 
 with 2 quarts of water, and color it 
 green. 
 
 Ambergris Essence. Pour 12 fluid 
 ounces of spirit of wine of 90 per cent. 
 Tr. over 1 ounce of coarsely powdered 
 ambergris, and let it stand for a few 
 days. Then draw off the liquid, extract 
 the residue with spirit of wine, filter 
 the extract, and add it to the other 
 portion. 
 
 Angelica Essence. Mix by shaking 
 | fluid ounce of pure angelica oil with 
 1 quart of alcohol of 90 per cent. Tr. 
 
 Anise-seed Essence. Distil 1 pound 
 of crushed anise seed, li gallons of 
 strong rectified spirit, and i pint of 
 water. Add to this | fluid ounce of 
 anise seed oil and i gallon of rectified 
 spirit, and clarify the mixture with 1 
 ounce of alum. 
 
 Anise-seed Extract. Dissolve by 
 shaking 40 drops of anise seed oil, 
 4 drops of fennel oil, and 2 drops of 
 coriander seed oil in 3 pints of rectified 
 spirit of 90 per cent, Tr. 
 
 Atiise-seed Tincture. Dissolve 2 
 fluid drachms of anise seed oil and 
 H fluid drachms of badian seed oil in 2 
 gallons of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. 
 Tr. ; dilute the solution with gallon 
 of water, and color it green, as above. 
 
 Aromatic Tincture. Comminute 6 
 ounces of zedvary, 4 ounces each of 
 calamus root, galanga and angelica 
 root, 2V ounces of bay leaves, 2 ounces 
 each of cloves, cinnamon blossoms and 
 scraped orange peel, 3 ounces of Roman 
 camomile, i ounce of ginger, and i 
 ounce of mace. Pour If gallons of 
 rectified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. over 
 the ingredients, and let them macerate 
 for 8 days, then filter, and add 40 drops 
 of oil of peppermint and 2& quarts of 
 water. 
 
 Borbadoes. Essence. Mix 25 drops 
 of oil of lemon, 25 of oil of bergamot, 6 
 each of oil of cinnamon, oil of cloves 
 and oil of nutmeg, with 1 gallon of rec- 
 tified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr., shake 
 the mixture thoroughly, and filter it. 
 
 Berg<nnot Essence. Dissolve i fluid 
 ounce of oil of bergamot in i gallon of 
 spirit of wine of 90 per cent. Tr. 
 
 Bitter Almond Essence. Crush 9 
 ounces of bitter almonds, place them 
 into a still with 2| gallons of water, let 
 them macerate for 12 hours; then add 
 2J gallons of spirit of wine of 90 per 
 cent. Tr., and distil off a distillate 75 
 per cent, strong. 
 
 Or, Pour 3| quarts of strong rye 
 whiskey over 1 pound of crushed apri- 
 cot kernels, 4 ounces of cherry kernels. 
 1 fluid drachm of cloves, and i fluia 
 drachm of mace, and distil off 3 quarts 
 of essence of bitter almonds, or kernel 
 extract. 
 
 Or, Dissolve 1 fluid drachm of oil of 
 bitter almonds in 3 quarts of rectified 
 spirit of 90 per cent. Tr., and store the 
 fluid for some time before using it. 
 
14 
 
 TECHNO-CIIEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Bitter Essence (Single}. Macerate 4 
 ounce of dried orange peel, i ounce of 
 calamus root cut in small pieces in li 
 quarts of spirit of wine of 90 per cent. 
 Tr. Let the mass stand for 2 days and 
 then filter it. 
 
 B 'ttter Essence (Double}. Comminute 
 2 2 ounces of leaves of common buck 
 bean, li ounces each of germander 
 water, dried orange peel, and leaves of 
 wormwood, and \ ounce each of cinna- 
 mon and gentian root. Pour IB gallons 
 of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. 
 over the ingredients and let them digest 
 for 2 days, when the fluid is drawn off 
 and filtered. 
 
 Bitter Extract for Grunewald Bitters. 
 Comminute 2 ounces of orange peel, i 
 ounce each of gentian root, leaves of 
 common buck bean, and galanga, i 
 ounce of leaves of blessed thistle, and 1 
 drachm of leaves of wormwood. Put 
 the ingredients in a suitable flask, pour 
 li gallons of spirit of wine 90 per cent, 
 strong over them, place them in a warm 
 place and let them digest. Then draw 
 off the fluid, press out the residue, add 
 the extract to the first fluid, and filter 
 it through porous paper. 
 
 Calamus Tincture. Dissolve 1 fluid 
 ounce of oil of calamus in 2 quarts of 
 rectified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. 
 
 Or, Comminute 15 ounces of calamus 
 root and 1 ounce of angelica root. Pour 
 5 gallons of whiskey, 45 per cent, strong, 
 over the roots, let them macerate for 2 
 days, and then distil off 3 gallons of 
 essence 75 per cent, strong. 
 
 Caraway Essence (Cumin Essence}. 
 Pour 5 gallons of spirits of wine, 50 per 
 cent, strong, over : 
 
 Crushed caraway seed 2 Ibs. 
 
 Crushed anise seed 1 oz 
 
 Crushed fennel seed 1 07. 
 
 Orris root cut in pieces 1% oz. 
 
 Powdered cinnamon % oz 
 
 Let the mass digest for 24 hours, and 
 then distil off a distillate 85 per cent, 
 strong. 
 
 Cardamon Extract. Peel and com- 
 minute 4i ounces of cardamons, pour 2i 
 pints of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. 
 Tr. over them, add and mix thoroughly 
 with it li fluid drachms of oil of carda- 
 mon, and let the entire mass digest for 
 2 days, when the fluid is drawn off and 
 filtered. 
 
 Or, Mix li fluid drachms of oil of 
 
 cardamon with li quarts of rectified 
 spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. and filter the 
 fluid through porous paper. 
 
 Cherry Extract. Press out the flesh 
 of ripe cherries, let the mass stand 
 quietly in a moderately warm room 
 until the pure juice has separated from 
 the pulp. Then place the mass in a 
 bag, press the juice out, let it stand for 
 a few hours longer, and add an equal 
 quantity of rectified spirit of 90 per 
 cent. Tr. 
 
 Cherry Water. Distil 5i pounds of 
 crushed cherry stones with 7| gallons 
 of water, add 4i to 5 gallons of cherries, 
 and distil off 3 to 4i gallons of cherry 
 water. 
 
 Chocolate Essence. Pour 2i quarts 
 of spirit of wine over 12J ounces of 
 roasted and ground cocoa beans, i ounce 
 of powdered cinnamon, and i ounce of 
 powdered cloves; let the ingredients 
 digest and filter the fluid. 
 
 Cinnamon Essence. Dissolve i fluid 
 ounce of oil of cinnamon in li quarts 
 of rectified spirit of 85 per cent. Tr., and 
 filter the solution. 
 
 Clove. Essence. Comminute 9 ounces 
 of cloves, pour li quarts of rectified 
 spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. over them, let 
 them digest for a few days, and then 
 filter the fluid. 
 
 Coffee Essence. Pour li quarts of 
 rectified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. over 
 5i ounces of finely-roasted and ground 
 coffee, let it digest for some time, draw 
 off the fluid and filter it. 
 
 Cognac Essence. Dissolve 3i fluid 
 ounces of sulphuric ether in & gallon of 
 alcohol of 90 per cent. Tr. 
 
 English Bitters Essence. Comminute 
 5 ounce each of leaves of wormwood, 
 leaves of centaury, and leaves of blessed 
 thistle ; i ounce each of gentian root, 
 china root, and orange peel ; k ounce or 
 orris root, and 1 ounce of grains of Par- 
 adise. Pour li quarts of rectified 
 spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. over these in- 
 gredients, let them digest for some time, 
 then pour the fluid off and filter it. 
 
 fennel Essence. Dissolve 1 fluid 
 drachm of oil of fennel, i drachm each 
 of anise seed oil and oil of lemon, and 
 10 drops of cumin oil in li quarts of 
 rectified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. 
 
 Gold Water Essence. Dissolve 4 
 fluid drachms of oil of lemon, 2 fluid 
 drachms of oil of orange, 1 fluid drachm 
 
BITTERS, CORDIALS, ESSENCES, ETC, 
 
 15 
 
 each of rose oil, oil of nutmeg, and oil 
 of cinnamon, i fluid drachm each of 
 oil of calamus, oil of lavender, and oil 
 of juniper, and i fluid drachm of oil of 
 cloves in i gallon of rectified spirit of 
 90 per cent. Tr., and filter the solution. 
 Herb Cordial Essence. Comminute 
 
 1 ounce each of orange peel and lemon 
 peel, i ounce of calamus root, i ounce 
 each of juniper berries, ginger, orris 
 root, angelica root, and coriander seed, 
 and 1 ounce each of galauga, leaves of 
 marjoram, and leaves of rosemary. 
 Pour 1 gallon of rectified spirit of 90 
 per cent. Tr. over these ingredients, let 
 them digest for some time, then press 
 out the fluid and filter it. 
 
 Juniper Berry Essence. Dissolve 1 
 to li fluid ounces of oil of juniper in li 
 quarts of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. 
 Tr. and filter the solution. 
 
 Or, Distil H pounds of crushed juni- 
 per berries, li ounces of bruised anise 
 seed, and 3 ounces of powdered cinna- 
 mon, with whiskey sufficient to give a 
 distillate of 3 gallons 75 per cent, 
 strong. 
 
 Lavender Essence. Dissolve i fluid 
 ounce of oil of lavender in 3-i quarts of 
 rectified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr., and 
 filter the solution. 
 
 Lemon Essence. Dissolve 2 fluid 
 drachms of oil of lemon in 1 J quarts of 
 rectified spirit of 85 per cent. Tr., and 
 shake the solution thoroughly. 
 
 Mace Extract. Pour 3i quarts of 
 rectified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. over 
 
 2 ounces of mace, let it digest for a few 
 days, and then filter the fluid. 
 
 Marjoram Essence. Dissolve \ ounce 
 of oil of marjoram in 3 quarts of recti- 
 fied spirit of 90 per cent. Tr., and filter 
 the solution. 
 
 Musk Essence. Pour li pints of rec- 
 tified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. over 1 
 drachm of powdered musk and drachm 
 of pulverized gray ambergris. Let the 
 ingredients macerate for a few days and 
 then draw off the clear fluid. Extract 
 the residue with spirit of w r ine, filter 
 the extract and add it to the first por- 
 tion. 
 
 Nut Essence. Crush 50 large green 
 walnuts, pour li gallons of rectified 
 spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. over them, let 
 them digest for a few days and press 
 out the fluid. Distil the residue with 
 sufficient whiskey to give a distillate 80 
 
 per cent, strong, and add this to the 
 first essence. 
 
 Nutmeg Essence. Comminute 85 
 ounces of nutmegs, pour 6 gallons of 
 rectified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. over 
 them, let them digest for a few days 
 and then filter the fluid. 
 
 Orange Blossom Extract. Pour li 
 pints of boiling milk over 10i ounces 
 of fresh orange blossoms; place the 
 game on the fire and let it boil up ; then 
 add and thoroughly mix with it 3 
 quarts of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. 
 Tr., and add li quarts of champagne 
 to the filtrate. 
 
 Orange Blossom Water. Distil 11 
 pounds of preserved orange blossoms 
 in 6 gallons of water, so that the distil- 
 late will amount to 3 to 3i gallons of 
 aromatic water. 
 
 Orange blossoms are preserved in the 
 following manner: Put a handful of 
 salt on the bottom of an earthen jar, 
 place upon this a layer of orange blos- 
 soms, and repeat this alternately until 
 the jar is filled. By keeping the jar in 
 a cool place the orange blossoms will 
 remain fresh for a long time. Rose 
 leaves are preserved in the same manner. 
 
 Orange Juice. Mix the juice of 12 
 or more oranges with 12 fluid ounces 
 of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. 
 When the sediment has all settled to 
 the bottom, draw the fluid off and fil- 
 ter it. 
 
 Orange Peel Extract. Crush in a 
 stone mortar the rinds of 12 oranges 
 with some sugar, and let the mass digest 
 for a few days by placing it in i gallon 
 of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. 
 Then decant the clear fluid and fil- 
 ter it. 
 
 Parfait D* Amour Essence. Dissolve 
 fluid ounce of oil of cinnamon, 6 
 fluid drachms each of oil of cardamon, 
 oil of rosemarj', and anise seed oil, and 
 20 minims each of oil of lemon, oil of 
 orange, oil of cloves, oil of camomile, 
 and oil of lavender in li quarts of rec- 
 tified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. Shake 
 the solution thoroughly and filter it. 
 
 Peach Essence. Dissolve 1 fluid 
 drachm of oil of bitter almonds in 3 
 quarts of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. 
 Tr., allow the solution to stand for a 
 few days, and then filter it. 
 
 Or, Crush 8f ounces bitter almonds, 
 put them in a still, pour 2i gallons of 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 water over them, and let them digest 
 for 12 hours. Then add 2J gallons of 
 Epirit of wine, and distil oft' a distillate 
 75 per cent, strong. 
 
 Peppermint Essence. Dissolve to 
 1 ounce of oil of peppermint in 2 
 quarts of rectified spirit of 90 per 
 cent. Tr. 
 
 Peppermint Essence may also be pre- 
 pared by steeping 1 part of the leaves 
 of the plant in 3 of spirit of wine 90 per 
 cent, strong. After remaining in the 
 spirit for 5 or 6 days, the clear fluid is 
 poured off, the residue pressed, and the 
 extract filtered and added to the clear 
 fluid. 
 
 Quince Essence. Grate the quinces, 
 press the juice out, add equal parts by 
 weight of rectified spirit of 85 per cent. 
 Tr. ; let the mass stand until it settles 
 and then filter. 
 
 Raspberry Extract. Crush 2 pounds 
 of ripe raspberries, press them out and 
 add 2 quarts of rectified spirit of 90 per 
 cent. Tr. 
 
 Or, Take freshly picked raspberries, 
 place them in an earthen dish, crush 
 them to a pulp with a wooden spoon, 
 and let this stand quietly in a moder- 
 ately warm room until the pure juice 
 has separated. Then place the pulp in 
 a bag, press it out, let the juice stand 
 for a few hours longer, and add the 
 same quantity of rectified spirit of 90 
 per cent. Tr. 
 
 Raspberry Water. This is prepared 
 from the residue left in preparing the 
 extract by stirring it into a mash with 
 water and distilling. 
 
 Rose Essence. Dissolve 2 fluid 
 drachms of rose oil in H quarts of rec- 
 tified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr., and 
 filter the solution. 
 
 Rose Water. Preserved rose leaves 
 are distilled in the same manner as 
 given under Orange Blossom Water. 
 
 Rosemary Essence. Mix 6 fluid 
 drachms of oil of rosemary with li 
 quarts of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. 
 Tr. ; let the mixture stand for a few 
 days and then filter it. 
 
 Sage Essence. Dissolve 1 fluid ounce 
 of oil of garden sage in 1J pints of rec- 
 tified spirit of 85 per cent. Tr. 
 
 Spanish Bitters Essence. Commin- 
 ute 6 parts of calamus root, 3i each of 
 centaury and polypody root, 3 of orris 
 coot, 2 each of galanga, leaves of 
 
 blessed thistle, elecampane root, and 
 gentian root, and 1 each of leaves of 
 wormwood, angelica root, and mas- 
 terwort root. Pour 400 parts of rec- 
 tified spirit, 90 per cent, strong, over 
 the ingredients, let them digest for 48 
 hours, then press the fluid out and 
 filter it 
 
 Strawberry Extract. Bruise 4 
 pounds of wild strawberries; pour 3 
 quarts of spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. over 
 the mass ; let it stand for some time and 
 filter. The product will be about 1 
 gallon of strawberry essence. 
 
 Strengthening Tincture. Comminute 
 4i ounces each of gentian root, calamus 
 root, and oak bark, 2 ounces each of 
 orange peel and angelica root, 1 ounce 
 of cinnamon, and i ounce each of 
 cloves and ginger. Pour 1J gallons of 
 rectified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr., and 
 1| quarts of water over the ingredients, 
 and let them digest for eight days. 
 Then filter the mass, add 40 minims of 
 oil of wormwood, and a like quantity 
 of oil of peppermint and oil of Tbalm to 
 the filtrate. 
 
 Vanilla Essence. Cut 2 ounces of 
 vanilla beans, pour li quarts of recti- 
 fied spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. over them ; 
 let them digest for some time, and filter 
 the fluid. This essence should be kept 
 in hermetically closed flasks. 
 
 Vanilla water may be made by pour- 
 ing 1 gallon of water over the extracted 
 residue. 
 
 Vanilla Tincture. Macerate ounce 
 of vanilla beans for 8 days in 2 fluid 
 ounces of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. 
 Tr., and filter the fluid. 
 
 Wormwood Essence. Comminute 
 ounce each of leaves of wormwood, 
 leaves of centaury, and leaves of blessed 
 thistle, J ounce each of gentian root, 
 china root, and orange peel, J ounce of 
 orris root, and 1 ounce of grains of 
 Paradise. Pour 2 pints of rectified 
 spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. over the in- 
 gredients, let them digest for some 
 time, and filter the fluid off. 
 
 III. ELIXIRS. Abbe Elixir. Com- 
 minute 3J pounds of lemon peel, 6| 
 ounces of nutmeg, and a like quantity 
 of cloves. Place the ingredients in a 
 wickered demijohn, and pour 20 gal- 
 lons of 33 per cent, alcohol over them, 
 and let them digest for 3 to 4 weeks, 
 placing the demijohn in a warm place. 
 
BITTERS, CORDIALS, ESSENCES, ETC. 
 
 17 
 
 The mass is then strained through a 
 cloth, the residue pressed out, the fluid 
 filtered, and the nitrate compounded 
 with a sufficient quantity of white sugar 
 syrup. 
 
 Angel Elixir, Comminute and mix 
 4V ounces of cinnamon, 2 ounces of 
 galanga, li ounces of cloves, 1 ounce 
 each of nutmeg, orange peel, and lemon 
 peel, f ounce of ginger, i ounce each 
 of orris root, zedvary, cubebs, and car- 
 damons. Pour 3 pints of alcohol 
 over the ingredients, and let them digest 
 for 8 days. Then filter and add 2V 
 gallons of double distilled rose water, 
 and 13 pounds of sugar syrup. 
 
 Elixir de St. Aur. Distil 9 ounces 
 each of lavender blossoms, orange peel 
 and rose leaves, 5i ounces of lemon 
 peel, 1 ounce each of cinnamon, cloves 
 and nutmegs, with 5 gallons of alcohol 
 and 4 gallons of water. Add 2V quarts 
 each of rose water, orange blossom 
 water, balm water, and cinnamon water, 
 and 30 pounds of sugar syrup to the 
 distillate, and color it rose-red. 
 
 Elixir-Colombat. Dissolve.120 drops 
 of oil of juniper, 40 each of oil of an- 
 gelica, oil of wormwood, and oil lemon, 
 and 20 of oil of cinnamon in IV gallons 
 of alcohol; add 2J pounds of sugar dis- 
 solved in 1^ gallons of water to the 
 solution, and color it pale red. 
 
 Elixir of Life. Dissolve 2 fluid 
 ounces of oil of wormwood and 1 fluid 
 ounce each of oil of cardamon, oil of 
 calamus, oil of nutmeg, and oil of 
 orange peel, in 3 gallons of alcohol 90 
 per cent, strong, and add | of a gallon 
 of water to the solution. Color the 
 fluid brown with burned sugar. 
 
 Elixir Jfonpou. Dissolve 120 drops 
 of oil of peppermint, 40 each of oil of 
 balm, oil of orange peel, rose essence, 
 and orange blossom essence; 32 each 
 of oil of mace and oil of cloves, and 60 
 of vanilla tincture, in 1 gallons of rec- 
 tified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. ; sweeten 
 the solution with a syrup made of 7 
 pounds of sugar and li gallons of water. 
 Color it rose-red. 
 
 Elixir des Troubadours. Macerate 
 2 pounds of musk roses, \\ pounds of 
 jasmine blossoms, 9 ounces of orange 
 blossoms, 2V drachms of mace in 3 
 gallons of whiskey, 22 per cent, strong. 
 Let the mass stand for 14 days; distil 
 on the water bath, and add a syrup 
 2 
 
 made of 11 pounds of sugar and 3 quarts 
 of water. Color rose-red. 
 
 Elixir Vital. Dissolve 120 drops of 
 oil of bergamot, 32 each of oil of mace, 
 oil of coriander seed, and oil of cloves ; 
 24 each of cumin oil and oil of cinna- 
 mon, and 60 of vanilla tincture in li 
 gallons of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. 
 Tr. ; sweeten the solution with a syrup 
 made of 6 pounds of sugar and li 
 gallons of water. Color green. 
 
 Juniper Elixir. Crush 4i ounces of 
 juniper berries, pour 1 gallon of spirit 
 22 per cent, strong over them, and let 
 them digest for 4 weeks. Then strain the 
 fluid off, and add a syrup made of 9 
 pounds of sugar and 1| quarts of water. 
 
 Taboiirey Elixir. Comminute i 
 ounce of aloes, 2 ounces each of cinna- 
 mon and walnuts, 4i ounces each of 
 orange peel and lemon peel, and 1 
 ounce of cloves. Pour 2J gallons of 
 spirit of wine 33 per cent, strong over 
 the ingredients, and let them digest for 
 some time ; then distil in a water bath, 
 and add a syrup made of 13 pounds of 
 pulverized sugar, and 1J quarts each 
 of orange blossom water and rose water. 
 This elixir is colored rose-red. 
 
 IV. BITTERS, CORDIALS, LIQUEURS 
 AND RATAFIAS. Anise-seed Cordial. 
 Dissolve 2 fluid drachms of anise-seed 
 oil and 20 drops of badian seed oil in 
 H gallons of alcohol of 90 per cent. Tr. 
 Compound this solution with 6V pounds 
 of sugar in 1 gallons of water, and 
 filter. 
 
 Another Recipe. Dissolve 2 fluid 
 drachms of anise seed oil, 40 drops of 
 fennel oil, 32 drops of cummin oil, and 
 30 drops of oil of lemon, in 2J gallons 
 of spirit of wine. Mix with this a 
 solution of 8J pounds of sugar in 2i 
 gallons of water, and store it away for 
 3 to 4 weeks. Then draw off the clear 
 fluid, filter the sediment and color yel- 
 low. 
 
 Anisette Cordial. Dissolve 2 fluid 
 drachms of anise seed oil and 18 
 drops of oil of bitter almonds in 1^ gal- 
 lons of alcohol of 90 per cent. Tr. ; add 
 a solution of 5& pounds of sugar in 1J 
 gallons of water, and filter. 
 
 French Anisette. Dissolve 2 fluid 
 drachms of anise oil, 20 drops of oil of 
 bitter almonds, and 2 fluid ounces of 
 cognac essence (see Essences) in 1 gal- 
 lons of alcohol of 90 per cent. Tr. Mix 
 
18 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL EECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 this solution with one of 54 pounds of 
 sugar in 14 gallons of water, and filter. 
 
 Holland Anisette. Dissolve 1 fluid 
 drachm of anise oil, 4 fluid drachm 
 of cognac essence, i fluid drachm each 
 of badian seed oil, oil of bitter almonds, 
 and vanilla essence (see Essences), 14 
 gallons of alcohol of 90 per cent. Tr. 
 Mix the solution with one of 6 pounds 
 of sugar in 14 gallons of water, and 
 filter. 
 
 Angelica, Cordial. Macerate the fol- 
 lowing ingredients in 4 gallons of alco- 
 hol of 90 per cent. Tr., and expose them 
 to a moderate heat for 4 days : 
 
 Lemon peel 8\t ounces. 
 
 Orange peel 5J4 
 
 Mace \4 
 
 Nutmeg % 
 
 Cassia 2J4 
 
 Cloves 2 
 
 Orris root 1 
 
 Rosemary leaves' 2 
 
 Lavender flowers 1^ 
 
 Marjoram % 
 
 Orange flowers 2*4 
 
 Vanilla ^ 
 
 Crushed juniper berries . . . 2^ 
 
 Filter the mixture and compound the 
 filtrate with a solution of 26 pounds of 
 sugar in 2J gallons of water. 
 
 Aqua, Bianca. Dissolve 30 drops of 
 oil of lemon, 27 drops of cedar oil, 33 
 drops of oil of balm, 30 drops of oil of 
 peppermint, 4 fluid drachm of vanilla 
 essence, and 4 fluid drachm of amber- 
 gris essence (see Essences), in 14 gallons 
 of alcohol of 90 per cent. Tr. Com- 
 pound the fluid with a solution of 64 
 pounds of sugar in 14 gallons of water, 
 and filter. 
 
 AquaReale. Dissolve 1 fluid drachm 
 of oil of lemon, | fluid drachm of oil of 
 orange peel, 27 drops of oil of cinna- 
 mon, 30 drops of oil of cloves, 30 drops 
 of oil of mace, 2 fluid drachms of van- 
 illa essence, and fluid drachm of am- 
 bergris essence. Add to this solution 
 one of 64 pounds of sugar in 1 gallon 
 of water, and filter. 
 
 A qua- Turco Liqueur. Pour 24 quarts 
 of boiling water over 4 ounces of im- 
 perial tea, 4 ounce of green tea, 1 ounce 
 of black gunpowder tea, 14 ounces of 
 strong infusion of lime blossoms, and 4 
 ounce of angelica seed. Close the ves- 
 sel tightly to prevent the vapors from 
 escaping, until the infusion has become 
 cold. Then draw off the clear fluid 
 
 and pour 24 quarts of boiling water 
 over the residue. Filter this infusion 
 when cold and add it to the first in- 
 fusion. Then add 284 pounds of sugar 
 and 2^ gallons of rectified spirit of wine. 
 Clarify the fluid with the whites of 3 
 eggs and \i pints of sweet cream, and 
 perfume it with some musk and spirit 
 of ambergris. Finally, add 84 fluid 
 ounces of vanilla essence and let the 
 fluid rest quietly for 24 hours. Then 
 filter the liquor through a bag filled 
 with animal or wood charcoal in order 
 to obtain it entirely colorless. 
 
 Aromatic Cordial. Mix 30 drops of 
 oil of lemon, 24 of oil of rosemary, 27 
 of oil of lavender, 30 of oil of pepper- 
 mint, 27 of oil of angelica, 27 of oil of 
 marjoram, and 33 of oil of cardamon 
 with 14 gallons of alcohol of 90 per 
 cent. Tr. Shake thoroughly and then 
 compound the solution with one of 54 
 pounds of sugar in 14 gallons of water, 
 and filter. 
 
 Ambergris Water. Macerate 2 
 drachms of powdered gray ambergris, 
 30 grains of powdered musk, 80 grains 
 of civet in U pints of spirit of wine 40 
 per cent, strong, add 4 ounce of refined 
 sugar. Let the mixture stand for 14 
 days and then filter. 
 
 Berlin Bitters. Dissolve 80 drops of 
 oil of juniper, 80 of oil of coriander, 40 
 each of oil of angelica and badian seed 
 oil, and 44 drops of oil of ginger in 14 
 gallons of alcohol of 80 per cent. Tr. 
 To this solution add 14 gallons of water 
 and 1 pound of sugar. Filter and color 
 brown. 
 
 Bitter-Rossoli. Comminute 84 ounces 
 of oranges and 4 ounces of sandal wood. 
 Add 2i pounds of orange peel and 12 
 gallons of good rye whiskey. Let the 
 mass digest for 14 days, then press, filter, 
 and sweeten it with a solution of 34 
 pounds of sugar in 1 pint of water. 
 
 Breslau Bitter Cordial. 
 
 Cassia 1V4 pounds. 
 
 Cloves 5% ounces. 
 
 Mint leaves 4} 
 
 Caraway seed 
 
 Fennel seed 4} 
 
 Anise seed 
 
 Coriander seed 2 
 
 Ginger 2% 
 
 Cubebs 2 
 
 Rosemary leaves 1% 
 
 Cardamons 4% 
 
 -Juniper berries 5)4 
 
BITTERS, COEDIALS, ESSENCES, ETC. 
 
 19 
 
 Lavender blossoms 1% ounces. 
 
 Nutmegs 434 " 
 
 Eom an camomile 3 " 
 
 Orris root 3 " 
 
 Angelica 6% " 
 
 Oranges 6l " 
 
 Orange peel 7% " 
 
 Lemon peel 10% " 
 
 Gentian root 434 " 
 
 Oalanga 5>| " 
 
 Calamus root 3 " 
 
 Wormwood 5% " 
 
 Alcohol of 90 per cent. Tr. . . 8 gallons. 
 
 Is sweetened with a solution of 58 
 pounds of brown sugar in 10 gallons of 
 water and allowed to digest for 8 to 10 
 days, when it is filtered. This cordial 
 is coloied either dark yellow or dark 
 red. 
 
 Calamus Liqueur. Macerate 9 pounds 
 each of calamus root and of angelica 
 root in 4J gallons of alcohol of 90 per 
 cent. Tr., and let it stand for 6 days. 
 Then filter the fluid, sweeten it with a 
 solution of 22 pounds of sugar in li gal- 
 lons of water, and color it red; 
 
 Cardinal Water. Distil: 
 
 Fresh lemon peel 3.3 pounds. 
 
 Balm 5J/< ounces. 
 
 Anise seed 4)4 " 
 
 Coriander seed 4V " 
 
 Cinnamon 8% " 
 
 Mace 2% " 
 
 Nutmeg 1 " 
 
 Alcohol of 90 per cent. Tr. . . 4% gallons. 
 Water 4 
 
 Dissolve 26i pounds of syrup in 5i 
 gallons of water; add the solution to 
 the distillate. Color sky blue. 
 
 Cardinal de Rome. Dissolve 2 fhiid 
 drachms of oil of lemon, 1 fluid drachm 
 of oil of cloves, 40 drops of oil of nut- 
 nii-g, 20 drops of oil of cinnamon, and 4 
 grains of gray ambergris in 3 gallons 
 of spirit of wine, sweeten the fluid with 
 a solution of 11 pounds of sugar in 2i 
 gallons of water and filter. 
 
 Carminative Cordial. Distil: 
 
 Pried green orange peel . . . 6^ ounces. 
 
 Dried green lemon peel . . . 6% " 
 
 Caraway seed 41^ " 
 
 Juniper berries ?>% " 
 
 Anise seed ?>% " 
 
 Camomile 314; " 
 
 Mint 2*4 " 
 
 Nutmeg 1 " 
 
 Alcohol of 90 per cent. Tr. . . 4% gallons. 
 
 Water 4 " 
 
 Add 27i pounds of syrup and 3J gal- 
 lons of water to the distillate. 
 
 Capuchin Cordial. Dissolve 1 fluid 
 drachms of oil of parsley, 1 fluid drachm 
 of oil of orange blossoms, 24 drops of oil 
 of cinnamon, 1 fluid drachms of cumin 
 oil, and 20 drops each of anise seed oil, 
 oil of mace, and fennel seed oil in 2 
 gallons of alcohol of 90 per cent. Tr. ; 
 sweeten the solution with a syrup made 
 of 5} pounds of sugar and li gallons of 
 water. Color brown. 
 
 Chartreuse. Three varieties of this 
 liqueur, differently colored, are found in 
 commerce. The following receipts can 
 be highly recommended for manufac- 
 turing this liqueur. 
 
 Green. 
 Ozs. 
 
 Yellow. White. 
 O/s. Ozs. 
 
 A 
 
 10 grains. 
 loz. 
 
 I & 
 
 10^ 
 
 35 grains. 
 
 .* g' 
 
 * : 
 
 % 
 
 - 
 11 Ib. 
 
 Mountain wormwood . 
 
 Aloes 
 
 Angelica seed .... 
 Angelica root .... 
 Arnica blossoms . . . 
 Buds of poplars . . . 
 Calamus root .... 
 
 Cassia 
 
 Cardamons .... 
 Coriander seeds . . . 
 Tonka beans .... 
 
 Cloves 
 
 Hyssop in bloom . . . 
 
 Nutmeg 
 
 Mace 
 
 Balm 
 
 Peppermint .... 
 
 Thyme 
 
 Spirit of wine of 85 per 
 
 cent. Tr. . . . 
 Sugar 
 
 Macerate the herbs in the alcohol for 
 about 36 to 48 hours, add a quantity of 
 alcohol equal to that of the distillate, 
 and rectify the resulting product with 
 the addition of an equal quantity of 
 water. Then mix the distillate with 
 the cold solution of the sugar, and add 
 a sufficient quantity of water, so that 
 the entire product will amount to 4i 
 gallons; then color the liqueur green 
 or yellow. 
 
 Cherry Liqueur. Mix If gallons of 
 cherry juice and 2 gallons of pure alco- 
 hol, and dissolve in the mixture { ounce 
 of Indian balsam, 1 drachm each of oil 
 of cinnamon and oil of bitter almonds, 
 and 35 drops of oil of cloves. Sweeten 
 the solution with 13 pounds of syrup 
 and 4i pounds of white sugar dissolved 
 in 4| gallons of water, and after shaking 
 the fluid thoroughly store it away until 
 it becomes clear. 
 
 Cherry Cordial. To a mixture of 4i 
 
20 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 pounds of cherry juice and 3 quarts 
 of alcohol of 80 per cent, add 16 drops 
 of oil of cloves, 1 pound of sugar, and 
 3i quarts of water, and filter the cordial. 
 
 Chocolate Liqueur. 
 
 Cocoa beans moderately roasted 
 
 and crushed 3% pounds. 
 
 Finest cassia 3li ounces. 
 
 Cloves \y. 
 
 Vanilla % " 
 
 Cardamons % " 
 
 Saffron % 
 
 Cinnamon flowers 1J4 " 
 
 Alcohol of 90 per cent. Tr. . . 5ft2 gallons. 
 
 Water b% " 
 
 White sugar 28^ pounds. 
 
 Color dark red with cochineal. 
 
 Christofle. Dissolve 80 drops of oil 
 of orange peel, 60 of oil of lemon, 40 of 
 oil of cinnamon, 40 of oil of balm, 32 of 
 oil of cloves, and 24 of oil of mace in 13 
 pounds of alcohol of 90 per cent. Tr., 
 add a solution of 5i pounds of sugar in 
 li gallons of water and filter. 
 
 Citronelle. Comminute 8i ounces of 
 lemon peel, 3i ounces of orange peel, i 
 ounce of nutmegs, and A ounce of cloves. 
 Pour If gallons rectified spirit of 90 per 
 cent. Tr. over these ingredients and 
 allow them to digest for 8 days, when 
 they are pressed out and the fluid is fil- 
 tered and compounded with a solution 
 of 6i pounds of sugar in li gallons of 
 water and the liqueur colored yellow. 
 
 Crambambuli. Mix 1 fluid drachm 
 each of oil of cloves and oil of mace, i 
 fluid drachm of oil of cinnamon, and 20 
 drops of oil of cardamon with 1J 
 gallons of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. 
 Tr. Sweeten the solution with a syrup 
 made of 5J pounds of sugar and 1J gal- 
 lons of water, and filter. 
 
 Danzig Crambambuli. Comminute 
 4} ounces of cinnamon, 1 ounce of 
 cloves, i ounce of ginger, 1 ounce of 
 mace, "and i ounce of anise seed. Pour 
 2f gallons of rectified spirit of 90 per 
 cent. Tr. over these ingredients, let them 
 digest for 14 days, then press them out, 
 filter the fluid, and sweeten it with a 
 solution of 8f pounds of sugar in 2i 
 gallons of water. 
 
 Cumin Cordial (Kummel}. I. Dis- 
 solve 2 fluid drachms of cumin oil and 
 4 fluid drachms of anise seed oil in li 
 gallons of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. 
 Tr., and sweeten the solution with a 
 syrup made of 6i pounds of sugar and 
 li gallons of water. 
 
 II. li fluid drachms of cumin oil, 24 
 drops of oil of coriander seed, 24 drops 
 of oil of orange peel, 24 drops of cognac 
 essence. Treat and sweeten in the same 
 manner as No. I. 
 
 III. Dissolve li fluid drachms of 
 cumin oil, 24 drops of fennel oil, 12 
 drops of oil of cinnamon, in li gallons 
 of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. 
 Sweeten the solution with a syrup made 
 of li pounds of sugar and li gallons 
 of water, and filter. 
 
 Cumin Liqueur. Macerate for 6 
 days 1 pound of caraway seed, 1 ounce 
 of anise seed, i ounce of orris root, i 
 ounce of cinnamon, i ounce of angelica 
 root, i ounce of cloves, in 2 gallons of 
 alcohol of 90 per cent. Tr. Sweeten the 
 solution with a syrup made of 1 1 pounds 
 of sugar and 2 gallons of water, and 
 filter. 
 
 Curagoa. Comminute 1 pound of 
 fresh orange peel, i ounce of nutmegs, 
 2 ounces of cinnamon. Pour 2 gallons 
 of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. 
 over them, allow them to digest for 8 to 
 
 10 days, and compound the filtered 
 fluid with a solution of 6i pounds of 
 sugar in li gallons of water. 
 
 French Curagoa. Dissolve li fluid 
 drachms of oil of orange peel, 20 drops 
 of oil of cinnamon, 12 drops of oil of 
 mace, 30 drops of vanilla essence, 30 
 drops of raspberry essence, and 4i fluid 
 ounces of Jamaica rum in 1} gallons 
 of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr., and 
 add a solution of 6i pounds of sugar in 
 
 11 gallons of water. 
 
 Holland Curagoa. Dissolve li fluid 
 drachms of oil of orange peel, 20 drops 
 of cognac essence, 8 drops of oil of 
 lemon, 10 drops of oil of mace, and 1 
 fluid drachm of vanilla essence in If 
 gallons of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. 
 Tr., and compound the fluid with a 
 solution of 6i pounds of sugar in li 
 gallons of water. Color the liquor 
 light brown. 
 
 Eau Americaine. 
 
 Orange peel 1 pound, 
 
 Rosemary leaves 4V fluid oz. 
 
 Lavender blossoms 4% " 
 
 Cinnamon 3*4 " 
 
 Cloves 2*| " 
 
 Nutmegs 1 " 
 
 Alcohol of 90 per cent. Tr. . . 4% gallons. 
 
 Water 4 
 
 Add to the distilled fluid 3 gallons of 
 
BITTERS, CORDIALS, ESSENCES, ETC. 
 
 water and 26 pounds of syrup, and color 
 the distillate green. 
 Eau jy Amour. Distil : 
 
 Bitter almonds 13 l / ounces. 
 
 Fresh lemon peel .... 
 
 Cinnamon 
 
 Mace 
 
 Cloves 
 
 Lavender blossoms .... 
 Alcohol of 90 per cent. Tr. . 
 Water . 
 
 4% gallons. 
 
 Then add 1J gallons of Muscatel wine, 
 37 drops of ambergris essence, 22 pounds 
 of syrup, and 14 gallons of water, and 
 color the fluid rose-red. 
 Eau D' Argent. Distil : 
 
 Fresh lemon peel 1 pound. 
 
 Cl'ves 2V^ ounces. 
 
 Angelica seed 1% " 
 
 Badian seed 1% 
 
 Fl..n-ntine orris root .... 1% 
 
 Cinnamon 2'/ " 
 
 Alcohol of 90 per cent. Tr. . . 4% gallons. 
 
 Add to the distillate 1J quarts of balm 
 water, 264 pounds of sugar syrup, and 
 2.i gallons of water. Color the fluid 
 red, and mix some silver leaf macerated 
 with honey with it. 
 
 Eau U'Ardelle. Distil 44 ounces 
 each of mace and of cloves, 4f gallons 
 of alcohol of 90 per cent. Tr., and 4 
 gallons of water. Mix with the distil- 
 late 34 gallons of syrup and 2J gallons 
 of water, and color violet. 
 
 Eau IJ'Absynth Citronne. I. Distil 
 44 pounds of wormwood leaves, | ounce 
 of lemon peel, 4J gallons of alcohol of 
 90 per cent. Tr., and 4 gallons of 
 * water. Add to the distillate H fluid 
 drachms of oil of peppermint, 264 
 pounds of syrup, and 34 gallons of 
 water. 
 
 II. Dissolve li fluid drachms of oil 
 of lemon, f fluid drachm of oil of worm- 
 wood, 24 drops of oil of peppermint, 15 
 drops of anise seed oil, li fluid drachms 
 of oil of cardamon in 1J gallons of rec- 
 tified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. ; sweeten 
 with a solution of 5V pounds of sugar in 
 14 gallons of water, and color green. 
 The same quantity of oil of orange 
 blossoms may be used instead of carda- 
 mon oil. 
 
 Eau De Cypre. Dissolve H fluid 
 drachms of oil of lemon, 30 drops of oil 
 of bergamot, 20 drops each of oil of cin- 
 
 namon, oil of orange blossoms and of 
 vanilla essence, and 24 drops of oil of 
 cardamon in 1} gallons of rectified 
 spirit of 90 per cent. Tr., and sweeten 
 with a solution of 64 pounds of sugar 
 in 14 gallons of water. The liquor ia 
 left either colorless or colored pale yel- 
 low. 
 
 Eau de Dauphin. Dissolve 5 drops 
 of oil of juniper, 20 drops each of an- 
 gelica oil, coriander oil, and oil of gin- 
 ger, 10 drops of oil of cardamon, and a 
 like quantity of badian seed oil in 1 J 
 gallons of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. 
 Tr. ; sweeten by adding a solution of 3J 
 pounds of sugar in 14 gallons of water, 
 and filter. 
 
 Eau de Napoleon. Distil : 
 
 Fresh jasmine blossoms ... ?>% ounces. 
 
 Fresh lemon peel 11 " 
 
 Cloves 34 
 
 Cinnamon 3^? " 
 
 Nutmegs 2J4 " 
 
 Alcohol 6 gallons. 
 
 Then add to the distillate: 2 fluid 
 drachms of vanilla essence, 34 quarts 
 of double distilled rose water, 34 quarts 
 of orange flower water, 1J quarts of 
 peppermint water, 3 pounds of sugar 
 syrup, 34 quarts of water, and color 
 blue. 
 Eau D' Orient. Distil : 
 
 Dates . . . - - 
 
 2 ou 
 
 p 
 
 4% gal 
 
 ces. 
 ona. 
 
 Lemon peel 
 Orange peel 
 Pine apples 
 Grains of Para 
 Calamus . 
 Allspice . . 
 Alcohol of 90 p 
 Water . . 
 
 
 
 dise .... 
 
 er cent. Tr. . 
 
 Add to the distillate 24 gallons of 
 sugar syrup and 5i gallons of water, and 
 color blue. 
 
 Eau D'Or (Gold water). Dissolve | 
 fluid drachm of oil of lemon, 24 drops 
 of oil of cinnamon, 24 drops of oil of 
 coriander, 20 drops of oil of mace, 15 
 drops of oil of orange blossoms in If 
 gallons of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. 
 Tr., and sweeten by adding a solution 
 of 7 pounds of sugar in if gallons of 
 water. Color the fluid pale yellow, 
 filter, and add a small quantity of finely 
 macerated gold leaf. 
 
22 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Eau de Paradise (Paradise Water}. 
 Distil : 
 
 Fresh lemon peel 2^ pounds. 
 
 Angelica root 3% ounces. 
 
 Orris root 2 
 
 Calamus 2% 
 
 Anise seed 2% 
 
 Kosewood 2 
 
 Ciirdamons . 1 
 
 Alcohol of 90 per cent. Tr. . . 4% gallons. 
 
 Add to the distillate 26$ pounds of 
 sugar syrup and 3 gallons of water. 
 Color green and add some silver leaf 
 ' rubbed fine. 
 
 Eau des Princesses. Dissolve 80 drops 
 of oil of lemon, 80 of oil of bergamot, 
 40 of oil of cloves, 40 of oil of balm, 20 
 each of oil of cinnamon, oil of bitter 
 almonds, and oil of peppermint, GO of 
 vanilla essence, and 40 each of rose 
 essence and orange blossom essence in 
 2 gallons of rectified spirit of 90 per 
 cent. Tr., sweeten with a solution of 7J 
 pounds of sugar in li gallons of water, 
 and filter. 
 
 Eau Precieuse. Comminute 4} ounces 
 of rosewood and a like quantity of bit- 
 ter almonds, and let the mass d'igest for 
 6 to 10 days in 3 gallons of rectified 
 spirit. Then press out, filter, and add 
 to the filtrate 20 drops of oil of cloves, 
 12 of oil of lemon, and 12 of oil of nut- 
 meg, and also a solution of 8| pounds 
 of sugar in 2i gallons of water. This 
 liquor is colored green, and a small 
 quantity of silver leaf macerated in al- 
 cohol is added. 
 
 Eau Eoyale. Distil : 
 
 Lemon peel 11 cmnces. 
 
 Orange peel ....... 11 " 
 
 Jasmine blossoms 8% " 
 
 Mace 4k " 
 
 Cinnamon 4% " 
 
 Cloves 2i| " 
 
 Nutmeg 1 " 
 
 Alcohol of 90 per cent. Tr. . . 4% gallons. 
 
 Water 1% " 
 
 Add to the distillate 20 drops of am- 
 bergris essence, 2 fluid ounces of vanilla 
 essence, a like quantity of orange flower 
 water, 2i gallons of water, 264 pounds 
 of sugar syrup, and color the fluid red. 
 Eau de 'Sante. Mix 4 fluid drachms 
 of oil of lemon, f fluid drachm each of 
 oil of rosemary, oil of lavender, oil of 
 peppermint, oil of angelica, oil of mar- 
 joram, and oil of cubebs, and 13| 
 pounds of sugar in 3 gallons of rectified 
 
 spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. Color the 
 solution green and filter. 
 
 Eau de Sept Graincs ( Water of 
 Seven Seeds). Comminute i ounce each 
 of anise seed, fennel seed, caraway seed, 
 and coriander seed, and 6 grains each 
 of dill seed and of wild thyme seed. 
 Macerate the seeds for about 14 days in 
 3i quarts of French brandy, then filter, 
 and sweeten with a solution of 2| 
 pounds of sugar in f of a pint of water. 
 
 English Hitters. I. Compound 4 
 ounces of English Bitters essence (see 
 Essences) and f fluid drachm of cognac 
 essence ; sweeten the liquid with a solu- 
 tion of 4i pounds of sugar in 1^ gallons 
 of water, filter, and color brown. 
 
 II. Compound 80 drops of oil of 
 orange peel, 60 of oil of angelica, 40 of 
 oil of wormwood, 24 of oil of marjoram, 
 and 16 of oil of cardamon with If gal- 
 lons rectified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. ; 
 sweeten the solution with 5& pounds of 
 sugar in H gallons of water, filter, and 
 color brown. 
 
 Greek Sitters. Dissolve 80 drops of 
 oil of lemon, 48 of oil of wormwood, 40 
 each of oil of angelica and oil of cala- 
 mus, 24 each of oil of rnace, oil of cloves, 
 oil of bitter almonds, and 12 of carda- 
 mon oil, in If gallons of rectified spirit 
 of 90 per cent. Tr. ; sweeten this solu- 
 tion with a syrup of 6 pounds of sugar 
 and 1 ! gallons of water, filter, and color 
 reddish brown. 
 
 Hamburg Bitters. Dissolve 120 drops 
 of oil of cinnamon blossoms, 40 each of 
 oil of cloves, oil of calamus, and oil of 
 wormwood, 24 of oil of mace, and 20 
 of oil of cardamon, in If gallons of rec- 
 tified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr., and add 
 a solution of 5 pounds of sugar in 1J 
 gallons of water; filter the fluid and 
 color it brown. 
 
 Juniper Liqueur. I. Compound 2 
 fluid drachms of oil of juniper and 24 
 drops of oil of cardamon with If gallons 
 of spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. ; sweeten the 
 mixture with a solution of 5i pounds 
 of sugar in H gallons of water, and fil- 
 ter the fluid. 
 
 II. Dissolve 2 fluid drachms of oil of 
 juniper, 24 drops of oil of ginger, 24 
 drops of oil of coriander, and H fluid 
 drachms of cognac essence in 2 gallons 
 of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr., 
 and sweeten the solution with 5 pounds 
 of sugar dissolved in li gallons or water. 
 
BTTTEKS, CORDIALS, ESSENCES, ETC. 
 
 Koch's Herb Extract. Macerate : 
 
 Lemon peel ........ 4U 
 
 Calamus ......... V& 
 
 Cinnamon ........ 2!4 
 
 White ginger ....... 2^ 
 
 Peruvian bark ....... 2^ 
 
 Orris root ........ ^A 
 
 Juniper berries ...... &A 
 
 Bay leaves ........ "<% 
 
 Cnbcbs ......... 2*4 
 
 Orange peel ........ 2^ 
 
 Roman camomile . . . . . l l /a 
 
 Elder flowers ....... l>t' 
 
 in 2i gallons of rectified spirit of 90 per 
 cent, Tr. Then press out and filter the 
 fluid. 
 
 Maraschino. Compound 1 pound of 
 maraschino essence with 4i gallons of 
 rectified spirit of 90 per. cent. Tr. and 9 
 gallons of water ; sweeten the mixture 
 with a solution of 44 pounds of sugar, 
 and filter. 
 
 Mogador. Dissolve 40 drops each of 
 oil of wormwood, oil of calamus, oil of 
 peppermint, and oil of orange peel, and 
 20 drops each of oil of cinnamon, oil of 
 cloves, oil of ginger, and oil of balm in 
 1 J gallons rectified spirit of 90 per cent. 
 Tr. ; sweeten the solution with <3 pounds 
 of sugar dissolved in 7 pints of water, 
 color it red with bilberry juice, and 
 filter. 
 
 Nectar. Dissolve 120 drops of oil of 
 lemon, 80 of fennel oil, 40 each of oil 
 of calamus, oil of cinnamon, oil of car- 
 dainoii, and oil of orange blossoms in 
 1J gallons of rectified spirit of 90 per 
 cent. Tr. ; sweeten the solution with 6\ 
 pounds of sugar dissolved in 1 ; \ gallons 
 of water, color it blue, and filter. 
 
 Orange Ped Cordial. I. Dissolve 2 
 fluid drachms of oil of orange peel in 1 j 
 gallons of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. 
 Tr. ; add 6 pounds of sugar in 1$ gal- 
 lons of water, color the fluid yellow, 
 and filter. 
 
 II. Comminute pound of fresh 
 orange peel, pour 1 J gallons of rectified 
 spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. over them ; 
 sweeten with 6V pounds of sugar dis- 
 solved in IV gallons of water, and filter. 
 
 Pa rfait jy A mo u r. Dissolve 80 drops 
 of oil of lemon, 40 of oil of cinnamon, 
 30 of oil of bergamot, 20 of oil of cloves, 
 16 of oil of nutmegs, and 10 each of oil 
 of lavender blossoms and oil of rose- 
 mary in 2J gallons of rectified spirit of 
 90 per cent. Tr. ; sweeten the solution 
 
 with 8| pounds of sugar dissolved in 2i 
 gallons of water, color the fluid pale 
 red, and filter. 
 
 Peach Cordial. Cut 1 pound of 
 peaches in slices, then pour 1J gallons 
 of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. 
 over them, and allow the mass to digest 
 for 8 to 10 days. Then filter and mix 
 the filtrate with 1 gallons of good 
 white wine and 7J pounds of sugar dis- 
 solved in 1J quarts of water. 
 
 Peppermint Cordial. Dissolve 2 
 fluid drachms of oil of peppermint in 
 1J gallons of rectified spirit of 90 per 
 cent, Tr. ; sweeten the solution with 6 
 pounds of sugar dissolved in li gallons 
 of water, and filter. 
 
 Or, Dissolve 2 fluid drachms of oil of 
 peppermint and 1 fluid drachm of cog- 
 nac essence in If gallons of rectified 
 spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. ; sweeten the 
 solution with 6V pounds of sugar dis- 
 solved in 1 i gallons of water, and filter. 
 
 Polish Water. Comminute 6 i ounces 
 of dried currants, 1 ounce each of anise 
 seed, cinnamon, cloves, fennel seed, 
 mint, rosemary, marjoram, and galanga. 
 Pour 4 gallons of alcohol and 3 gallons 
 of rose-water over them, and let the 
 mass digest for 14 days. Then add 44 
 pounds of sugar syrup, and filter. 
 
 Polish Whiskey. Comminute i pound 
 of large raisins, i ounce of licorice root, 
 I ounce each of cinnamon and carda- 
 mons, i ounce each of cloves, galanga, 
 gum ammoniac, anise seed, and corian- 
 der seed, and ounce of saffron. Pour 
 If quarts of whiskey over these ingre- 
 dients, let the mass digest for a few 
 days, then press the liquor out, filter it, 
 and sweeten it to the taste with sugar 
 dissolved in rose-water. 
 
 Quince Cordial (Quittico}. Powder 
 coarsely 2 ounces of cinnamon, i ounce 
 of coriander seed, ounce of white 
 ginger, and i ounce of nutmeg. Macer- 
 ate these ingredients for 8 days in 1 
 pint of spirit of wine 85 per cent, 
 strong, then strain and press out the 
 liquid and add 7 pounds of fresh quince 
 juice in which 6 pounds of white sugar 
 have been dissolved, and add 3 quarts 
 of spirit of wine 85 per cent, strong. 
 Mix the mass thoroughly and filter 
 through felt or blotting paper. 
 
 Rosemary Cordial. Dissolve 2 fluid 
 drachms of oil of rosemary and 24 
 drops of oil of lemon in li pints of rec- 
 
24 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 tified spirit of 80 per cent. Tr. ; sweeten 
 the solution with 1 pound of sugar dis- 
 solved in li gallons of water, and filter. 
 
 Rossolio de Turin. Comminute 1 
 pound of fresh rose leaves, i pound 
 each Of jasmine blossoms and orange 
 blossoms, 1 ounce each of orris root and 
 cinnamon, i ounce each of cloves and 
 vanilla. Pour If gallons of spirit of 
 wine over these ingredients and let 
 them macerate for 8 to 12 days, placing 
 them in a warm place. Then pour off 
 the fluid, press out the residue, sweeten 
 the liquor with 7i pounds of sugar, and 
 let it stand for 3 to 4 weeks. Then 
 pour off the clear liquor, filter the sedi- 
 ment, and color red with cochineal or 
 cherry juice. 
 
 Rostopschin. Dissolve li fluid 
 drachms of anise seed oil, i fluid drachm 
 of oil of cardamons, 40 drops of oil of 
 lemon, and 20 drops each of oil of cin- 
 namon and oil of coriander seed in If 
 gallons of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. 
 Tr. ; sweeten the solution with 6'i 
 pounds of sugar dissolved in li gallons 
 of water, and filter. 
 
 Scubac. Comminute 4J ounces of 
 juniper berries, 2 ounces of coriander 
 seed, 1 ounce each of saffron and cinna- 
 mon, i ounce each of angelica seed and 
 anise seed, i ounce each of mace and 
 cloves, and the fresh peel of 4 lemons. 
 Pour 2 gallons spirit of wine over these 
 ingredients and let them macerate for 
 2 to 3 weeks. Then boil li ounces of 
 raisins or dates in If gallons of water, 
 pour off the liquor, press out the residue, 
 and sweeten with 6i pounds of sugar, 
 and add this to the liquor pressed out 
 of the macerated mass. Let the whole 
 stand for 3 or 4 weeks, then pour off the 
 clear liquor and filter the sediment. 
 
 Soya Aqua Vitae. Comminute 3 
 ounces of anise seed, 1 ounce each of 
 coriander seed, elecampane root, nut- 
 meg, and cloves, i ounce each of cara- 
 way seed and elderberry blossoms, i 
 ounce of Roman camomile, 4i ounces 
 each of lemon peel and orange peel, and 
 1 i ounces of cinnamon. Macerate these 
 ingredients in alcohol for 2 or 3 weeks, 
 then distil them with 5i gallons of 
 rectified spirit, add the necessary quan- 
 tity of sugar, and compound the distil- 
 late with If pints of rose-water and as 
 much water as may be required. 
 
 Spanish Bitters. Dissolve 80 drops 
 
 of oil of Crete marjoram (origan), 40 
 each of oil of bitter oranges and oil of 
 wormwood, and 20 each of oil of angel- 
 ica, oil of cardamon, oil of calamus, oil 
 of marjoram, and oil of thyme in If 
 gallons of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. 
 Tr. ; sweeten the solution with 6i pounds 
 of sugar dissolved in li gallons of water, 
 color it brown, and filter. 
 
 Stettin Bitters. Macerate 1 pound of 
 gentian root, 8f ounces of wormwood, 
 1 pound of cloves, 4i ounces each of 
 coriander seed, cinnamon, and orange 
 peel, 2i ounces each of green oranges 
 and quassia in 9i gallons of spirit of 
 wine 40 per cent, strong. Pour off the 
 fluid, strain the residue, add 11 pounds 
 brown sugar, filter the liquor, and color 
 it brown. 
 
 Stomach Bitters. I. Comminute 2 
 ounces each of calamus, anise seed, car- 
 away seed, and fennel, li ounces each 
 of ginger and cinnamon, i ounce of 
 mace, 1 ounce of cloves, 4f ounces of 
 lemon peel, 1 ounce each of galanga, 
 zedoary, and cubebs, i ounce of pepper, 
 f ounce of sassafras bark, li ounces 
 each of rose leaves, myrrh, and laven- 
 der blossoms, and 2 ounces of orris root. 
 Pour 2 gallons of whiskey and If pints 
 of water over the ingredients, let them 
 macerate for 8 days, then press them 
 out, filter the liquor, and add some 
 common salt and 4i pounds of crushed 
 sugar. 
 
 II. Comminute i ounce each of speed- 
 well, mint, balm, wormwood, arum 
 root, zedoary, calamus root, small pome- 
 granates, caraway seed, and cinnamon. 
 Pour over them If quarts of good 
 whiskey and let them macerate for 14 
 days in a warm place, with frequent 
 shaking in the meanwhile. Then press 
 the liquor out, filter, and put it in 
 bottles. 
 
 III. Dissolve 40 drops each of oil of 
 orange peel, oil of wormwood, oil of 
 mint, and oil of calamus, 20 drops each 
 of oil of marjoram, oil of cinnamon, oil of 
 cloves, and oil of cardamon, and li fluid 
 drachms of cognac essence in If gallons 
 of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. ; 
 sweeten the solution with 6i pounds of 
 sugar dissolved in li gallons of water, 
 color the liquor brown, and filter. 
 
 IV. Dissolve 60 drops of oil of orange 
 peel, 40 each of oil of calamus, oil of 
 angelica, oil of cardamon, oil of worm- 
 
BITTERS, CORDIALS, ESSENCES, ETC. 
 
 25 
 
 wood, oil of ginger, and oil of mar- 
 joram, and 2 fluid drachms of cognac 
 essence in If gallons of rectified spirit 
 of 90 per cent. Tr. ; sweeten the solution 
 with 5h pounds of sugar dissolved in 1 i 
 gallons of water, and filter. 
 
 V. Vienna Stomach Bitters. Dis- 
 solve 40 drops each of oil of balm, oil 
 of orange peel, and oil of angelica, 24 
 drops each of oil of marjoram, oil of 
 wormwood, oil of cinnamon, oil of cori- 
 ander seed, and oil of mace, and i fluid 
 ounce of cognac essence in 1| gallons 
 of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. ; 
 sweeten the solution with 75 pounds of 
 sugar dissolved in 2i quarts of water. 
 Color red and filter. 
 
 Sirix* Cordial. Dissolve 40 drops 
 each of oil of wormwood, oil of calamus, 
 and oil of peppermint, 24 drops each of 
 oil of bitter oranges, oil of marjoram, 
 oil of cinnamon, oil of cloves, and oil 
 of cardamons in 1J gallons of rectified 
 spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. ; sweeten the 
 solution with 4} pounds of sugar dis- 
 solved in Ik gallons of water, color the 
 fluid green, and filter. 
 
 T/iie in's Hitters. 1 pound of peeled 
 calamus root, 2i pounds of orange peel, 
 i pound of galanga, 5 pound of white 
 cinnamon, of ounces of cardamons, 42 
 ounces each of cloves and allspice, 2i 
 ounces each of anise seed and fennel, 
 5| ounces of nutmeg, 1. ounce of Roman 
 camomile, and 2\ ounces of elecampane 
 root are digested in 17 gallons of spirit 
 of wine 50 per cent, strong for 24 hours 
 in a still, and then 8* gallons of liquor 
 are distilled off, 55 pounds of sugar are 
 dissolved in the distillate, and a suffi- 
 cient quantity of water is added to give 
 a volume of 26i gallons of liqueur 30 
 per cent, strong. 
 
 Tivoli Cordial. Dissolve 80 drops 
 each of oil of coriander seed and oil of 
 mace, and 40 drops each of oil of lemon, 
 tincture of vanilla, oil of cinnamon, 
 and tincture of orris root in If gallons 
 of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. ; 
 sweeten the solution with 5J pounds of 
 sugar dissolved in 1 gallons of water, 
 and color the cordial brown. 
 
 Trappistine. 3i ounces each of 
 wormwood and angelica root, If ounces 
 each of myrtle leaves and calamus root, 
 4 ounce of cloves, 3 ounces of carda- 
 mons, 7 ounces of peppermint, 24 ounces 
 of common balin leaves, J ounce of cin- 
 
 namon, and J ounce of nutmeg are 
 macerated for 48 hours in 2i gallons of 
 rectified spirit 85 per cent, strong; 2i 
 gallons of water are then added and the 
 macerated mass isdistilled. One gallon 
 of water is then added to the distillate, 
 and this is compounded with a cold 
 syrup of 17i pounds of sugar in 1 gallon 
 of water, and finally a sufficient quan- 
 tity of water is added to give an entire 
 product of 5i gallons. This liqueur is 
 colored green. 
 
 } 'a )> if /a Cordial. Macerate 2 ounces 
 of vanilla beans for a few days in 1^ 
 gallons of rectified spirit and 3 gallons 
 of water, and then distil the mass. Add 
 22 pounds of dissolved sugar to the dis- 
 tillate, color it with cochineal, and 
 filter. 
 
 Veritable Portrait d' Absinthe. Five 
 pounds of anise seed, a like quantity 
 of fennel, li pounds of elecampane 
 root, 2 pounds of calamus, 2 ounces of 
 wormwood, 2i ounces of leaves and 
 stalks of wild basil, 6 ounces of bitter 
 almonds, 2 ounces each of hyssop, mint, 
 and gnaphalium flowers are commi- 
 nuted and digested in 3 gallons of recti- 
 fied spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. The 
 macerated mass is then pressed out, the 
 liquor filtered, and 2 gallons of rum are 
 added, and the fluid sweetened with 5 
 pounds of brown sugar dissolved in 2 
 gallons of water. 
 
 Vienna Hitters. Dissolve 40 drops 
 each of oil of bitter oranges, oil of 
 wormwood, and oil of Crete marjoram 
 (origan), 32 of oil of calamus, 20 each 
 of oil of peppermint, oil of marjoram, 
 oil of anise seed, oil of thyme, and oil 
 of cinnamon, 24 of oil of coriander seed, 
 and 12 of oil of cloves in 2 gallons of 
 rectified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr. Add 
 3 quarts of good red wine to the solu- 
 tion, sweeten it with 6i pounds of sugar 
 dissolved in 3i quarts of water, color it 
 red, and filter. 
 
 Wormwood Cordial. Dissolve 1 
 fluid drachms of oil of wormwood, 32 
 drops of oil of lemon, and 20 drops each 
 of oil of cinnamon and oil of cardamon 
 in li gallons of rectified spirit of 90 per 
 cent. Tr. ; sweeten the solution with 5 
 pounds of sugar dissolved in 1 gallons 
 of water, and filter. 
 
 VI. RATAFIAS. Barbadoes Rata- 
 fia. Dissolve 80 drops of oil of lemon, 
 a like quantity of oil of bergamot, 40 
 
26 
 
 TECIINO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 each of oil of cinnamon, oil of cloves, 
 and oil of mace, and H fluid drachms 
 of vanilla tincture in 1J gallons of rec- 
 tified spirit of 90 per cent, Tr., and add 
 11 pounds of sugar, dissolved in 1^ gal- 
 lons of water. 
 
 Cocoa Ratafia. Seven pounds of 
 roasted cocoa are digested for 14 days 
 in 1 gallon of alcohol 35 per cent, 
 strong. Sweeten the mixture with 18| 
 pounds of sugar dissolved in 2 quarts 
 of water, filter and add 90 drops of van- 
 illa tincture. 
 
 Oitronat-Ratafia. Dissolve 2i fluid 
 drachms of oil of lemon and 1 fluid 
 drachm each of oil of bergamot, vanilla 
 tincture, and essence of roses in 2 gal- 
 lons of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr., 
 and sweeten the solution with 13 pounds 
 of sugar dissolved in 1 gallons of 
 water. 
 
 Claret Ratafia. Comminute 2 ounces 
 each of anise seed, dill, fennel, and 
 coriander seed, and 4| ounces of cara- 
 way seed; macerate these ingredients 
 for 14 days in 2 gallons of whiskey 22 
 per cent, strong, then strain the macer- 
 ated mass through a linen cloth ; add 
 5i pounds of sugar dissolved in $ pint 
 of water, and filter. 
 
 English Bitters Ratafia. Dissolve 
 80 drops of oil of bitter almonds, a like 
 quantity of oil of angelica, 40 of oil of 
 marjoram, 32 of oil of balm, 20 each of 
 oil 'of wormwood and oil of carda- 
 mons, 120 of cognac essence, and 80 of 
 vanilla tincture in If gallons of recti- 
 fied spirit of 90 per cent. Tr., and 
 sweeten the solution with a syrup made 
 of 10 pounds of sugar and 1 gallons of 
 water. 
 
 Fennel Ratafia. Dissolve 2 fluid 
 drachms of fennel oil, f fluid drachm 
 of oil of coriander seed, a like quantity 
 of oil of anise seed, and 1} fluid drachms 
 of orange blossom essence in 1 J gallons 
 of rectified spirit of 90 per cent. Tr., and 
 sweeten the solution with a syrup made 
 of 10 pounds of sugar and 1J gallons 
 of water. 
 
 Ginger Ratafia. Comminute \ pound 
 of ginger and i ounce of vanilla beans. 
 Pour 12 gallons of rectified spirit of 90 
 per cent. Tr. over these ingredients, let 
 them stand for some time, draw oif the 
 fluid, and sweeten it with a solution of 
 10 pounds of sugar in 1J gallons of 
 water. 
 
 Ratafia Chinoise (Chinese Liqueur). 
 Comminute 1 pounds of green oranges 
 and 5i ounces of fresh stems of an- 
 gelica; pour 2 gallons of spirit of 
 wine over these ingredients, and let 
 them macerate for 10 to 15 days. Then 
 press the macerated mass out, filter 
 the liquid, and sweeten it with 9 
 pounds of sugar dissolved in 1 gallon 
 of water. 
 
 Ratafia, de Grenoble. Comminute 1 
 drachm of cinnamon, J ounce of cloves, 
 8 ounces of peach leaves, and a like 
 quantity of cherry stones. Pour 1 gal- 
 lon of whiskey over these ingredients, 
 and let them digest for 2 to 3 weeks, 
 when they are distilled. Add to the 
 distillate 1 gallon of cherry juice, in 
 which 2i pounds of sugar have been 
 dissolved. 
 
 Mulberry Ratafia. Pour 22 pounds 
 of spirit of wine over 26i pounds of 
 mulberries, 1 pound of orris root, the 
 juice of 4 lemons and of 4 oranges, and 
 the peel of these fruits. Let them ma- 
 cerate for 4 to 6 weeks, then filter and 
 compound the filtrate with 6^ to 9 
 pounds of sugar syrup. 
 
 Orange Ratafia. Slice 20 oranges, 
 pour 13i pounds of rectified spirit of 90 
 per cent. Tr. over them, and let them 
 stand for 8 days. Then press out the 
 fluid, filter it, and add a solution of 
 10 pounds of sugar in 14 gallons of 
 water. 
 
 Apple Ratafia. 26} pounds of apple 
 juice, i ounce each of cloves and mace, 
 7J pounds of sugar, and 22 pounds of 
 spirit of wine are alloAved to digest for 
 4 to 6 weeks, then add some ambergris, 
 filter, and color the fluid yellow. 
 
 Pear Ratafia. 26i pounds of pear 
 juice, i ounce each of mace and cloves, 
 7J pounds of sugar, and 22 pounds of 
 spirit of wine. Treat in the same 
 manner as apple ratafia. 
 
 Stomachic Ratafia. Comminute ?i 
 ounces of pomegranates, 1 ounce of 
 calamus root, ounce of cloves, 2 
 ounces of caraway seed, I ounce of 
 cinnamon, and i ounce of mace. Pour 
 1 gallon of spirit of wine over the 
 ingredients, and allow them to digest 
 for 16 or 20 days. Then pour off 
 the liquid, and press out the residue. 
 Pour 3 quarts of boiling water over 1 
 ounce of peppermint, drain offthe fluid, 
 dissolve in it 3i pounds of sugar, and 
 
BLASTING COMPOUNDS, ETC. 
 
 27 
 
 add this to the above fluid. Then let it 
 stand quietly for 3 or 4 weeks, when 
 the clear fluid is poured off, and the 
 sediment filtered. 
 
 Celery Ratafia. 4} ounces of celery 
 seed, 5 drachms of coriander seed, and 
 3 drachms of cardamons are commi- 
 nuted and digested for 3 weeks in 2i 
 quarts of whiskey 24 per cent, strong, 
 when they are distilled on a water bath. 
 The distillate is sweetened with 2 
 pounds of sugar dissolved in li pints 
 of water. 
 
 Scotch Ratafia. Mix 5 ounces of 
 jujube berries, 2i ounces of saffron, li 
 ounces of dates, li ounces of grapes, I 
 drachm of coriander seed, f drachm of 
 cinnamon, and pour J gallon of whiskey 
 of 24 per cent, over the mixture. After 
 allowing it to digest for 14 days, pour 
 off the fluid, and add to it the fluid 
 pressed from the residue. Sweeten with 
 2| pounds of sugar dissolved in li pints 
 of water. 
 
 Vanilla Ratafia. Cut 1 ounce of 
 vanilla beans in small pieces. Pour 
 13i pounds of rectified spirit of 90 per 
 cent. Tr. over them, add i fluid drachm 
 of oil of orange blossoms, let them stand 
 for 8 days, then filter, add 11 pounds 
 of sugar dissolved in 1J gallons of 
 water, and color pale red. 
 
 Wormwood Ratafia. Dissolve 2 fluid 
 drachms of oil of wormwood, 32 drops 
 of oil of cinnamon, 20 drops each of oil 
 of cloves and oil of cardamons in 1J 
 gallons of rectified spirit of 90 percent. 
 Tr. ; sweeten the solution with a syrup 
 of 8J pounds of sugar, add 1 gallon of 
 water, and color green. 
 
 BLASTING COMPOUNDS, BLASTING 
 POWDER, DYNAMITE, GUN-COTTON, 
 GUNPOWDER, NITRO-GLYCERINE, 
 FULMINATES, ETC. 
 
 Among the blasting compounds nitro- 
 glycerine and the explosive substances, 
 dynamite, etc., derived from it, occupy 
 the foremost place. 
 
 Nitro-glycerine is obtained in the fol- 
 lowing manner : Fuming nitric acid of 
 49 to 50 Beaume is mixed with twice 
 its weight of highly concentrated sul- 
 phuric acid in a vessel kept cool by 
 being surrounded with cold water. 
 Ordinary ommercial glycerine, free 
 
 from lime and lead, is evaporated to 30 
 or 31 Beaume. When entirely cold, 
 it should be of a syrupy consistency. 7i 
 pounds of the cold acid mixture are 
 brought into a glass flask or earthen 
 vessel ; this is place'" 1 in cold water, and 
 I pound of glycerine is slowly poured 
 into it ; constant stirring being kept up 
 during the addition of the glycerine. 
 Great care must be observed to avoid 
 any heating of the mixture, as the con- 
 sequence of this would be an oxidation 
 of the glycerine with development of 
 carbonic acid. When the mixture is 
 complete, it is allowed to stand quietly 
 for 5 or 10 minutes, when it is poured 
 into 5 or 6 times its volume of cold 
 water, to which a rotary motion has 
 previously been imparted. The nitro- 
 glvcerine subsides quickly as a heavy 
 oil, which, by decantation, is brought 
 into a vessel of greater height than 
 width. It is now washed with water, 
 until not a trace of acid reaction is in- 
 dicated by blue litmus paper, when it 
 is put in flasks ready for use. It is a 
 yellow or brown oil, heavier than 
 water, and practically insoluble in it, 
 but soluble in alcohol and ether. When 
 impure or acid, it decomposes spon- 
 taneously in a short time, with develop- 
 ment of gas, and formation of oxalic 
 and glyceric acids. 
 
 Moivbray's Process of Mawufactnri*g 
 Nitro-glycerine. This product is pre- 
 eminent because of its stable character. 
 It freezes at 45 F., is clear as water, 
 and never of an orange color. When 
 detonated it does not produce what 
 is known as glycerine headache and 
 is non-explosive when frozen. These 
 excellent qualities are imparted to 
 it by the care taken in its preparation. 
 The nitrifying acid is made in a well- 
 ventilated building, in which are 
 placed five retorts each of \\ pounds' 
 capacity and charged with 10i ounces 
 of sodium nitrate and 13i ounces 
 of sulphuric acid. Terra-cotta pipes 
 conduct the vapors from each retort 
 into a row of four earthenware receivers 
 standing upon a trestle raised slightly 
 above the floor. 165 pounds of sul- 
 phuric acid are poured into the first two 
 receivers and 110 pounds into the third, 
 while the fourth remains empty. The 
 nitric acid vapors are condensed in the 
 receivers, whereby the mixture of acids 
 
28 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 required for nitrating is at once ob- 
 tained. When the distillation, which 
 requires 24 hours, is finished, the acid 
 mixture (about 660 pounds) is drawn 
 off and emptied into a large trough of 
 soapstone. To remove the hyponitric 
 acid, as well as to obtain a homogeneous 
 mixture, Mowbray passes a current of 
 air into the trough through an iron 
 pipe, which answers the purpose per- 
 fectly. This operation is of great im- 
 portance, as the presence of hyponitric 
 acid and nitrous acid probably causes 
 the spontaneous decomposition and con- 
 sequent explosion of this substance. 
 The room in which the nitrating pro- 
 cess is carried on is about 103 feet long 
 and contains 116 jars of earthenware in 
 9 wooden troughs. 18f pounds of acid 
 are poured into each of the jars and the 
 troughs are filled with ice water, or 
 with a mixture of ice and salt, to within 
 \ inch of the edge of the jars containing 
 the acid. Upon a shelf above the 
 troughs are placed glass vessels, one 
 for each jar. Each contains 2k pounds 
 of pure glycerine (not crude glycerine), 
 which is conveyed drop by drop into 
 the acid mixture by means of a siphon 
 and rubber hose. Beneath the shelf 
 upon which the glycerine vessels stand 
 runs an iron pipe 2 inches in diameter, 
 through which passes a current of cold 
 and dry air, which is introduced into 
 the jars, while the acid and glycerine 
 intermingle, through glass tubes 16i 
 inches long and i inch in diameter, 
 li hours are required for the glycerine 
 to run off, and the greatest attention 
 and care are necessary during this 
 time. The three workmen overseeing 
 the mixing process walk constantly up 
 and down with a thermometer in hand, 
 and should they find the temperature 
 rising in one of the jars, or that red 
 vapors are emitted, they stir the mix- 
 ture with a glass rod. It happens some- 
 times that the glycerine runs too rap- 
 idly, when the flow must be diminished, 
 and in case the engine should cease 
 working must be entirely stopped and 
 the mixture stirred. 
 
 When the conversion of glycerine into 
 nitro-glycerine is completed, and no 
 more red vapors escape, the jars are 
 emptied into a vat containing cold 
 water (42.8 F.). The quantity pro- 
 duced amounts at each operation to 
 
 495 pounds. In this vat the oil sub- 
 sides to the bottom, being covered with 
 water about 6 feet deep. It remains 
 here for 15 minutes, when, after the 
 water has been run off, it is drawn off 
 into another vat resembling an old- 
 fashioned churn, but much larger. 
 Here it is washed 5 times three times 
 with pure water and twice with a solu- 
 tion of soda, a current of air being 
 passed through it at the same time. 
 The water from the washing apparatus 
 is allowed to run into a vat, and from 
 this through two barrels buried in the 
 ground, whence it finds its way to the 
 outside. If any of the oil should have 
 been carried off with the wash-water, it 
 is regained in one of the barrels. The 
 nitro-glycerine is then transported in 
 copper vessels to a magazine about 300 
 feet distant from the work-room and 
 emptied into crocks each having a capa- 
 city of 66 pounds. These are placed on 
 wooden shelves, each holding about 20 
 crocks, which are immersed in water of 
 about 70 F., reaching to within 6 
 inches of the edge of the crocks. Here 
 they remain for 72 hours, during which 
 time the impurities that may be con- 
 tained in the oil rise to the surface in 
 the form of a scum, which is removed 
 with a spoon. The nitro-glycerine is 
 then chemically pure, transparent as 
 water, and strongly refracts light. In 
 this condition it is ready for packing. 
 The tin cans used for this purpose are 
 coated inside with paraffine, and have 
 a capacity of 61V pounds each. When 
 they are to be filled they are placed in 
 a shallow wooden vat ; the oil is first 
 poured into copper cans and then 
 through a rubber funnel into the tin 
 cans. To render any oil which may be 
 spilled harmless the precaution is used 
 to cover the bottom of the vat with a 
 thick layer of plaster of Paris, which 
 quickly absorbs the fluid. When the 
 cans have been filled they are placed 
 in a wooden vat filled with ice water, 
 or ice and salt, until their contents are 
 frozen, and 30 to 40 of them are stored 
 away together in smaller magazines at 
 a distance of about 325 feet from the 
 factory. For transporting the nitro- 
 glycerine the tin cans are packed in 
 open wooden boxes, the bottom of 
 which is covered with several inches of 
 sponge. Around the cans themselves 
 
BLASTING COMPOUNDS, ETC. 
 
 29 
 
 are fastened two gutta-percha tubes 
 crossing each other on the bottom of 
 the can. To thaw the nitro-glyeerine 
 each can is provided with a tube about 
 10 inches long and 1 inches in diame- 
 ter, passing through the centre from top 
 to bottom, into which water of from 70 to 
 90 F. is poured. The cans are closed 
 by a cork covered with a piece of blad- 
 der. Sleighs are used in winter for 
 transporting the cans, and in summer 
 wagons covered with a layer of ice and 
 this with a blanket. 
 
 R. Bdttger recommends the following 
 process as free from risk for preparing 
 small quantities of nitro-glyeerine : A 
 few grammes of anhydrous and entirely 
 pure glycerine are poured into a test- 
 glass kept cool by being surrounded 
 with a freezing mixture, and containing 
 1 part by volume of concentrated sul- 
 phuric acid of 1.52 gravity, and 2 parts 
 by volume of stronger sulphuric acid 
 of 1.83 gravity. The mixture is poured 
 as quickly as possible into a larger vol- 
 ume of water. In this the nitro-glyeer- 
 ine, resembling drops of oil, subsides to 
 the bottom ; it is then washed and re- 
 washed, first with water, and finally 
 with a weak solution of soda. It is 
 freed from water by means of a few 
 small pieces of chloride of calcium, 
 when a product will be obtained of 
 such purity that it may be kept with- 
 out risk for an indefinite time and with- 
 out suffering decomposition. 
 
 Dynamite possesses all the properties 
 of nitro-glyeerine for blasting purposes, 
 and is less dangerous. Explosion is 
 accomplished by means of a percussion 
 cap in the same manner as with nitro- 
 glycerine. The most common mode of 
 milking dynamite is by mixing 75 per 
 cent, of nitre-glycerine with 25 per 
 cent, of powdered sand. 
 
 Dynamite, according to 77. Champion 
 and H. Pellet, may be divided into, a, 
 dynamite with an inert absorbent (in- 
 fusorial earth, ashes, tripoli, etc.), and 
 b, dynamite with an active absorbent. 
 In the latter variety rosin, finely-pow- 
 dered coal, or saltpetre are used as 
 absorbents. To this class belong dualin, 
 lithofracteur, etc. 
 
 To make the manufacture of dyna- 
 mite less dangerous, A. Sohrero suggests 
 to stir infusorial earth with water into 
 a dough, form it into shapes of suitable 
 
 size, dry them at 212 F., and finally 
 dip them into nitro-glyeerine. Dyna- 
 mite with 75 per cent, of effective ex- 
 plosive can be prepared in this manner. 
 
 Cellulose Dynamite. Fra nzl has suc- 
 ceeded in producing a nitro-glyeerine 
 powder which, while it possesses all 
 the properties of dynamite prepared 
 with infusorial earth, has the advan- 
 tage of being unaffected by water. He 
 found that certain organic absorbents 
 possessed the property of retaining ab- 
 sorbed nitro-glyceriue,even when placed 
 under water, and did not lose their ex- 
 plosive power. The nitrogenized ab- 
 sorbents wood fibre and gun-cotton 
 were found to be too dangerous for 
 manufacturing large quantities. But 
 Franzl has now succeeded in preparing 
 a wood fibre which absorbs from 70 to 
 75 per cent, of nitro-glyceriue, which 
 retains these proportions unchanged 
 when in contact with water, and which 
 retains also its explosive power after 
 being pressed out and dried. 
 
 Norbin & Ohlsson's Patent Dynamite 
 consists of a mixture of ammonium 
 nitrate, with 8 to 10 per cent, of pulver- 
 ized charcoal or coal, and 10 to 30 per 
 cent, of uitro-glycerine. The compound, 
 which, on account of the hygroscopic 
 property of the ammonium nitrate, must 
 be kept in metallic cases or glass 
 vessels, is exploded by means of a per- 
 cussion cap. 
 
 A. Nobel's Dynamite is a mixture of 
 69 parts of saltpetre, 7 of paraffine or 
 naphthaline, 7 of coal dust, and 20 of 
 nitro-glyeerine. It is claimed that the 
 addition of paraffine or naphthaline 
 renders the mixture less hygroscopic. 
 
 Lithofracteur, as manufactured by 
 Krcbs & Co. of Deutz, is composed of 
 52 parts of nitro-glyeerine, 30 of infusor- 
 ial earth, 12 of coal, 4 of saltpetre, and 
 2 of sulphur. 
 
 Diftmar's Dualin consists of 50 parts 
 of nitro-glyeerine, 50 of nitrated saw- 
 dust, and 20 of saltpetre. 
 
 New Dynamite by Anthoine & Gen- 
 aud. In this preparation unsized paper 
 takes the place of silica. The paper is 
 not only saturated with nitro-glycerine, 
 but dipped in succession into solutions 
 of saltpetre, potassium chlorate, and 
 potassium picrate. 
 
 Carbodzotine. This explosive mix- 
 ture, patented in France by de Soulagea 
 
30 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 and Cahuc, is composed of 50 to 64 
 parts of saltpetre, 13 to 16 of sulphur, 
 14 to 16 of spent tan, or very fine saw- 
 dust, 9 to 18 of lampblack, and 4 to 5 
 of ferrous sulphate. The mixture is 
 heated with a suitable quantity of water 
 to 230 to 248 F., then allowed to cool, 
 and the solid mass dried and shaped 
 into bricks. 
 
 JS rise-rocs, an explosive agent patent- 
 ed by Hobauai, consists of 40 parts of 
 saltpetre, 20 of soda saltpetre, 15 of 
 sulphur, 1 of rock salt, and J 5 of woody 
 substance, spent tan, sawdust, etc. 
 
 Pudrolitli. Pocli's blasting powder, 
 known under this name, consists of 3 
 parts by weight of spent tan, 5 of saw- 
 dust, 3 of soda saltpetre, 3 of barium 
 nitrate, 6 of wood charcoal, 12 of 
 sulphur, and 68 of saltpetre. The 
 barium and sodium salts are dissolved 
 in hot water, the tan and sawdust 
 stirred into the solution, and the mix- 
 ture is evaporated to dryness. The 
 other ingredients, previously pulver- 
 ized, are intimately mixed with the 
 powdered residue in a revolving cylin- 
 der. 
 
 Pyrolith. This blasting powder, 
 patented by Wattlen, and used for 
 blasting hard rocks, such as granite, etc., 
 consists of 12.5 parts by weight of saw- 
 dust, 67.5 of saltpetre, and 20 of flowers 
 of sulphur. 
 
 For blasting softer rocks, such as 
 limestone, coal, etc., Wattlen recom- 
 mends the following composition: 11 
 parts by weight of sawdust, 50.5 of salt- 
 petre, 16 of soda saltpetre, 1.5 of pow- 
 dered charcoal, and 20 of flowers of 
 sulphur. 
 
 Trets' Blasting Powder, patented in 
 England, consists of 52.5 per cent, of 
 Chili soda saltpetre, 20 per cent, of 
 sulphur, and 27.5 per cent, of spent 
 tan. 
 
 Frozen Dynamite. Dynamite, when 
 frozen solid, is comparatively valueless,^ 
 as in thawing for use it becomes injured 
 and sometimes ignites ; but by granulat- 
 ing it, as freezing takes place, and keep- 
 ing it in this condition, it may be trans- 
 ported, handled, or poured and rammed 
 into bore holes with entire safety and 
 convenience. Freezing the dynamite 
 in grains may be readily accomplished 
 by passing it through a coarse sieve 
 after it is manufactured, but just before 
 
 it congeals, and allowing it to fall 
 loosely and lie undisturbed during its 
 exposure to a freezing temperature. 
 The particles will slightly adhere, but 
 may be readily separated by stirring. 
 : Dynamite so frozen will readily explode 
 by the ordinary means, but the cap 
 should have about three times the usual 
 quantity of fulminate. 
 
 Augendre's White Powder. This 
 powder may be advantageously used 
 for blasting very hard rock, although 
 it is somewhat expensive. Considerable 
 care and caution are required in ram- 
 ming it into the drill holes, and for this 
 reason the work should be only in- 
 trusted to experienced workmen. By 
 the following process Augendre's gun- 
 powder can be produced as a very ho- 
 mogeneous mixture and of great explo- 
 sive energy. The three ingredients of 
 white gunpowder, potassium ferrocy- 
 anide, sugar, and potassium chlorate, 
 are pulverized, each by itself, in a mor- 
 tar, and then thoroughly dried. Each 
 of the ingredients, when dry, is again 
 pulverized as finely as possible, and 
 passed through a fine hair sieve. The 
 respective quantities of the ingredients 
 are then weighed oft', poured upon a 
 sheet of paper, and intimately mixed 
 with the fingers or with a feather. The 
 powder is then placed in a capacious 
 porcelain mortar, moistened with abso- 
 lute alcohol, and an intimate mixture 
 is produced by continued rubbing with 
 a pestle, the process being entirely free 
 from danger if done in this manner. 
 The powder, which is now in the form 
 of a stiff dough, is spread upon a smooth 
 board and dried in a warm room. The 
 alcohol evaporates quickly, when the 
 thin, dry cakes of powder are crushed 
 between two smooth boards, and the 
 powder passed through a fine sieve. In 
 this manner it is obtained in the form 
 of very fine, intimately mixed dust, 
 possessing excellent explosive proper- 
 ties. 
 
 Jfafenegger's Gun and Blasting Pow- 
 der, several varieties of which have 
 been patented in England, resembles 
 Aiigendre's white powder. Their com- 
 position is as follows : 
 
 I. Nine parts of potassium chlor- 
 ate, i of sulphur, and of wood char- 
 coal. 
 
 II. Two parts of potassium chlorate, 
 
BLASTING COMPOUNDS, ETC. 
 
 31 
 
 1 of refined sugar, and 1 of potassium 
 -ferrocyanide. 
 
 III. Four parts of potassium chlorate, 
 1 of sulphur or sugar, i of wood char- 
 coal, and 1 of potassium ferrocyaiiide. 
 
 IV. Four parts of potassium chlorate, 
 4 of sugar, i of wood charcoal, and i of 
 sulphur. 
 
 V. One part of potassium chlorate 
 and 1 of sugar. 
 
 VI. Eleven parts of potassium chlor- 
 ate, i of sulphur, and i of wood char- 
 coal. 
 
 Dr. Borlinetto's Gunpoivder. Mix 
 very intimately 10 parts of Chili salt- 
 petre, 10 of picric acid, and 8} of potas- 
 sium bichromate. 
 
 Sharp & Smith's Patent Gunpoicder 
 consists of 2 parts of saltpetre, 2 of po- 
 tassium chlorate, 1 of potassium ferro- 
 cyanide, 1 of potassium tartrate, and 2 
 of sulphur. 
 
 Spence's Powder for Cannon of Large 
 Calibre. Two parts by weight of finely- 
 pulverized charcoal are boiled with 38 
 parts by weight of water. The boiling 
 is interrupted after a short time, and, 
 with constant stirring, 20 parts by 
 weight of potassium chlorate, 2 of pul- 
 verized coal, and 4 of sodium bicarbon- 
 ate are added to the mixture of charcoal 
 and water. The mass is again brought 
 to the boiling point, 7 parts by weight 
 of fine sawdust are added, and the boil- 
 ing continued until the woody mass has 
 formed a magma with the water. When 
 this is done the mass is evaporated in 
 open pans until it is of a consistency to 
 be granulated in the usual manner in 
 the powder-mill. 
 
 Non-explosive Powder. When this 
 powder is ignited it does not explode, 
 but burns slowly with a hissing noise. 
 It loosens and raises stones without 
 blasting them. It is cheaper than the 
 ordinary powder, of quite a coarse 
 grain, and contains 3 parts of potassium 
 nitrate to 1 of sodium nitrate. The 
 powder is mixed in the following pro- 
 portions: 56.22 to 56.23 per cent, of 
 potassium nitrate, 18.33 to 18.39 per 
 cent, of sodium nitrate, 9.68 per cent, 
 of sulphur, and 14,14 to 15.01 per cent, 
 of charcoal. 
 
 Green's .Blasting Powder consists 
 principally of barium nitrate, contains 
 but little saltpetre and no sulphur. 
 There is less danger in manufacturing 
 
 it than gunpowder, but it is not fit for 
 firearms. It possesses the great advan- 
 tage of not emitting thick smoke or 
 choking gases, and therefore does not 
 interrupt the work in mines; and fur- 
 ther, that it takes up less room than 
 gunpowder and is much cheaper. Its 
 e fleet as compared with gunpowder is 
 as 18 to 11. 
 
 Giant Dynamite is a mixture of 18 
 to 28 parts by weight of pyroxyline, 55 
 to 44 of nitro-glycerine, 5 to 10 of pyro- 
 paper, 20 to 16 of nitro-starch, 1 to 1 of 
 nitromannite, and I to 2 of water-glass. 
 The materials, which should be free 
 from acid, are carefully mixed and 
 brought under a cartridge press, in the 
 stamp of which is fastened a needle 
 which makes a hole in the cartridge for 
 the reception of the fuse. The cartridge 
 thus prepared is hermetically closed 
 with collodion, and packed in the same 
 manner as lithofracteur. Shortly be- 
 fore the cartridge is to be used the 
 coating of collodion is broken on those 
 places where the holes are for the re- 
 ception of the fuse. This consists of 
 soft gun-cotton impregnated with potas- 
 sium chlorate and plumbic ferrocyan- 
 ide, and is }>revented from dropping 
 through by a knot on one end. It is 
 drawn through the holes and a Bick- 
 ford's fuse fastened to the other end. 
 
 Blasting Compound from Pot -i to- 
 Starch. The process is similar to that 
 of manufacturing nitro-glycerine. The 
 potato-starch is shaken with concen- 
 trated nitric acid until it is dissolved, 
 and then, with vigorous stirring, poured 
 into sulphuric acid, whereby the prep- 
 aration is separated in a finely-divided 
 condition. All traces of acid are then 
 removed by washing and rewashing, 
 and treating the preparation with so- 
 dium carbonate. The explosive starch 
 flour, Avhen dry, forms a tender white 
 powder. When touched with a glowing 
 piece of wood it is quickly consumed 
 with a yellow flame without leaving a 
 residue. A great advantage of the ex- 
 plosive starch flour is that it explodes 
 only after having been repeatedly 
 struck with a hammer upon an anvil. 
 Its ignition temperature is between 
 356 and 374 F. In external appear- 
 ance this explosive agent does not differ 
 from ordinary starch flour. It remains 
 entirely unchanged when, boiled in 
 
32 
 
 TECIINO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 water, but loses the property of being 
 colored blue by iodine. If examined 
 with the microscope the well-known 
 starch globules cannot be detected. 
 
 A Ne^v Blasting Powder, patented in 
 Germany by Th. Martinsen, consists of: 
 
 PARTS. 
 
 I. II. III. 
 
 Saltpetre .70 64 56 
 
 Sulphur 12 12 22 
 
 Lampblack 5 3 3 
 
 Sawdust or tan 13 21 29 
 
 Ferrous sulphate 2 3 5 
 
 The ferrous sulphate is completely 
 dissolved in a little water, and the other 
 components are mixed with it at 248 
 to 266 F. The mixture is cooled off 
 by constantly stirring it and then dried. 
 This powder can be stored, transported, 
 and used without danger, and develops 
 no smoke in the mine. The first mix- 
 ture is intended for dense rocks, the 
 second for anthracite, and the third for 
 bituminous coal. 
 
 To protect blasting agents containing 
 nitro-glycerine and ammonium nitrate 
 from moisture, and to prevent the ex- 
 udation of the nitro-glycerine, Nobel 
 adds paraffine to them. He recom- 
 mends the following proportions: 69 
 per cent, of sodium nitrate, 7 per cent, 
 of paraffine, and 4 per cent, of charcoal. 
 These ingredients are carefully mixed, 
 and 20 per cent, of nitro-glycerine is 
 added to the mixture. Or, 75 per cent, 
 of ammonium nitrate, 3 per cent, of 
 charcoal, 4 per cent, of paraffine, and 
 18 per cent, of nitro-glycerine. 
 
 Giant Powder. Forty parts of nitro- 
 glycerine are mixed with 60 parts of a 
 dry mixture, consisting of 40 parts of 
 sodium nitrate, 6 of rosin, 6 of sulphur, 
 and 8 of infusorial earth or other anal- 
 ogous absorbent substance. This forms 
 a powerful blasting compound, which 
 will not ignite from contact with flame 
 nor from a blow, but may be readily 
 exploded by the shock given by dis- 
 charging a cap containing fulminate. 
 
 Faure & French's Blasting Com- 
 pound is a mixture of 1 part of char- 
 coal, 16 of barium nitrate, and 1 of 
 nitro-cellulose stirred into a dough with 
 some water and then formed into disks 
 and dried. 
 
 Gun- Cotton. Cotton-wool is im- 
 mersed in a boiling dilute solution of 
 
 potassium carbonate, then washed with 
 water and well dried. It is now steeped , 
 for a few minutes in a cold mixture of 
 1 part of concentrated nitric acid and 3 
 of oil of vitriol, then squeezed, and 
 again placed in a fresh acid mixture 
 and left there for 48 hours. It is then, 
 again well squeezed and washed for a 
 long time with running water, and fin- 
 ally steeped in a solution of potassium 
 carbonate. 
 
 Gun-cotton thus manufactured will 
 keep without change indefinitely, and 
 may be kept under water for safety's 
 sake, and possesses, after drying, all its 
 original properties. 
 
 It is insoluble in water, alcohol, and 
 ether. It takes fire at 300 F., burning 
 away rapidly but without explosion; 
 but when ignited in a confined space, 
 or by percussion, it decomposes with a 
 violent detonation, the energy of which 
 equals that of five times its weight of 
 gunpowder. 
 
 New Blasting Compounds. 
 
 1. Peralite is a coarse-grained pow- 
 der consisting of 64 per cent, of salt- 
 petre, 30 per cent, of charcoal, and 6 
 per cent, of sulphide of antimony. 
 
 2. J aline contains 05 to 75 per cent, 
 of saltpetre, 10 per cent, of sulphur, 10 
 to 15 per cent, of lignite, 3 to 8 per cent, 
 of sodium pit-rate, and 2 per cent, of 
 potassium chlorate. 
 
 New Blasting Compound from a 
 Combination of Honey and. Glycerine. 
 The following proportions by weight 
 are used : 
 
 No. I. Fifty parts of combination of 
 honey and glycerine, 12 of potassium 
 chlorate, 16 of potassium nitrate, 17 of 
 prepared sawdust, and 5 of prepared 
 chalk. 
 
 No. II. Thirty-eight parts of com- 
 bination of honey and glycerine, 19 of 
 potassium chlorate, 24 of potassium 
 nitrate, 10 of prepared sawdust, and 9 
 of prepared chalk. 
 
 The combination of honey and gly- 
 cerine is prepared as follows : Mix 1 
 part of nitric acid of 1.50 specific grav- 
 ity and 2 parts of sulphuric acid of 1.84 
 specific gravity, and let the mixture 
 cool off to 62 F. Eight parts of this 
 mixture are placed in a wooden vessel 
 lined with lead, and to this is added, 
 with slow and constant stirring, 1 part 
 
BLASTING COMPOUNDS, ETC. 
 
 33 
 
 of a mixture of equal parts of honey and 
 glycerine, keeping the temperature of 
 the compound between 59 and 68 F. 
 After stirring for about 5 minutes the 
 combination of honey and glycerine 
 settles on the bottom of the vessel. It 
 is then separated from the supernatant 
 acid and washed first with water and 
 next with a solution of soda to remove 
 the last traces of acid. It is now ready 
 for mixing with the other ingredients, 
 which must have been previously pul- 
 verized and intimately mixed. The 
 sawdust flour is prepared by passing 
 ordinary sawdust through a fine sieve 
 and boiling it in a solution of soda until 
 all resinous and coloring substances 
 have been extracted, when it is washed 
 in cold water and dried. 
 
 Preparation of Blasting Compounds 
 by directly Nitrating Crude Tar Oils. 
 The crude tar oils are gradually com- 
 pounded by constant stirring with nitric 
 acid of a high grade. The clear oil 
 standing over the precipitate is poured 
 off into another vessel, nitric acid added 
 to the residue, and the process repeated. 
 
 The iiitrogenized substances obtained 
 in this manner are washed, dried, and 
 mixed with substances yielding oxygen. 
 The nitrates of alkalies, potassium 
 chlorate, and the strongest nitric acid 
 (1.5 specific gravity) are principally 
 used for the purpose. 
 
 Gelatinous Nitro-glycerine. Cotton 
 carefully cleansed aiid comminuted is 
 boiled in a closed boiler with 5 parts by 
 weight of dextrine and some acetate of 
 ammonium ; the resulting jelly, of which 
 as much as 7 per cent, may be dissolved 
 in nitro-glycerine, forms with it a mass 
 from which no nitro-glycerine can es- 
 cape. 
 
 To prepare the blasting compound 
 "Forcite " 76 parts of the above gelat- 
 inous nitro-glycerine are mixed with 
 15 parts of saltpetre and 9 of sawdust. 
 
 Cartridge Shells of Easily Comb)' fi- 
 ble Subs' ances. The material consists 
 of very loosely woven cotton or silk 
 tissue, which is impregnated with nitro- 
 glycerine, or with a mixture of sulphur 
 and saltpetre. When the tissue is dry, 
 collodion, to which a small quantity of 
 castor oil has been added, is poured 
 over it and it is then smoothed between 
 rollers. 
 
 fulminate of Mercury is used for 
 3 
 
 filling percussion caps. It is prepared 
 on a large scale by dissolving I part of 
 mercury in 12 of pure nitric acid of 1.36 
 specific gravity, and adding 12 of spirit 
 of wine, when a violent reaction takes 
 place, which is kept in check by adding 
 gradually more alcohol. First, the 
 liquid becomes black by the separation 
 of metallic mercury, which, however, 
 soon disappears. When the liquid be- 
 comes cool the fulminate of mercury 
 separates as a crystalline powder. It 
 is nearly insoluble in cold water : from 
 a boiling solution it is obtained in white 
 prismatic crystals. When kindled in 
 the open air it burns away like gun- 
 powder, but by percussion it is decom- 
 posed with a violent detonation. The 
 explosion of the fulminate is so violent 
 and rapid that it is necessary to moder- 
 ate it for percussion caps. For this 
 purpose it is mixed with potassium 
 nitrate or chlorate. For gun caps 
 potassium chlorate is generally mixed 
 with the fulminate, and powdered glass 
 is sometimes added to increase the sen- 
 sibility of the mixture to explosion by 
 percussion. After a little of the com' 
 position has been introduced into the 
 rap, it is made to adhere by a drop of 
 solution of shellac in spirit of wine, 
 which renders it also water-proof. 
 
 Fulminate of Silver. Ten grains of 
 pure silver are dissolved, at a gentle 
 heat, in 70 drops of concentrated nitric 
 acid of 1.42 specific gravity and 50 
 drops of water. As soon as the silver 
 is dissolved the heat is removed and 
 2,000 drops of alcohol are added. If 
 the action does not commence after a 
 short time, a very gentle heat may be 
 applied until effervescence begins, when 
 the fulminate of silver will be deposited 
 in minute needles, and may be further 
 treated as in the case of fulminate of 
 mercury. When dry the fulminate of 
 silver must be handled with the greatest 
 caution, since it is exploded far more 
 easily than the fulminate of mercury. 
 It should be kept in small quantities, 
 wrapped up separately in paper, and 
 placed in a pasteboard box. The vio- 
 lence of its explosion renders it useless 
 for percussion caps, but it is employed 
 in detonating crackers. 
 
 Fulminating Platinum is obtained 
 by dissolving bin oxide of platinum iu 
 diluted sulphuric acid and mixing the 
 
34 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL EECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 solution with an excess of ammonia, 
 when a black precipitate will result 
 which detonates violently at about 
 400 F. 
 
 Fulminating Gold is obtained as a 
 buff-colored precipitate when ammonia 
 is added to a solution of terchloride of 
 gold. It explodes violently when 
 gently heated. 
 
 BLEACHING. 
 
 Neiv Method of Bleaching Cotton 
 Yarns, Tissues, etc. This new method 
 of bleaching, invented by Banes and 
 Grisdales, is based upon rendering the 
 goods more porous and receptive of the 
 bleaching agent of any kind by treating 
 them in a vacuum boiler from which 
 the air is removed by an air-pump. 
 
 Cleansing of Cotton and other Vege- 
 table Fibres. Mix 8 parts of soda with 
 1 part of unslaked lime, and stir the 
 mixture with a quantity of water suffi- 
 cient to dissolve the soda. Then allow 
 the fluid to clear by standing, and pour 
 it off from the residue. The clear fluid, 
 according to circumstances, should show 
 1.5 to 2.5 of Twaddle: 1.5 is suffi- 
 cient for fine, light goods, while a 
 stronger fluid is required for coarse, 
 heavy materials. The yarns or tissues 
 are dipped for 30 to 50 minutes in the 
 fluid, and then bleached in the usual 
 manner. 
 
 To Bleach Cotton Goods with Woven 
 Borders. 1. Soak in alkaline lye. 2. 
 Rinse thoroughly, using a centrifugal. 
 3. Boil with solution of soap in a high- 
 pressure boiler. 4. Place them for 6 to 
 8 hours in Javelle's lye. 5. Rinse 
 thoroughly with water. 6. Pass them 
 through a hydrochloric acid bath. 7. 
 Rinse in ammoniacal water. 8. Pass 
 them through a centrifugal, and dry. 
 
 To Bleach Muslin. For 100 pounds. 
 Boil the muslin for 4 to 6 hours in a 
 lye consisting of 4V pounds of caustic 
 soda, then rinse it out and winch. Now 
 place the muslin in a bleaching bath 
 composed of 5 pounds of chloride of 
 lime of 100 and water ; allow it to re- 
 main in this for 8 to 12 hours and then 
 place it in fresh water to which 1 pound 
 of sulphuric acid has been added. 
 Here it remains for 1 hour, when it is 
 rinsed and dried. 
 
 Frohnheiser's Method of Bleaching 
 Cotton. Five pounds of calcined soda 
 and 3 pounds of chloride of lime are 
 mixed, each by itself, with water, and 
 then poured together. The mixture is 
 allowed to settle and the clear fluid 
 poured off. In it 200 pounds of cotton 
 yarn are boiled for 8 hours and then 
 rinsed in water. Now 10 pounds of 
 chloride of lime are stirred with water 
 and li pounds of sulphuric acid added 
 to it. In this the yarn is placed for 6 
 to 8 hours, when it is brought into a 
 cold-water bath to which 5 pounds of 
 sulphuric acid have been added. It 
 remains here for 6 hours, when it is 
 rinsed in warm water and is then 
 brought into a solution of 3 pounds of 
 potash or 4 pounds of calcined soda, 
 where it remains for 3 to 4 hours, when 
 it is thoroughly washed, passed through 
 a centrifugal, and then completely 
 dried. 
 
 To Bleach Cotton Piece Goods. 1. 
 Wash the pieces thoroughly in a wash- 
 ing machine. 2. Boil for 6 hours in a 
 high-pressure boiler with an addition 
 of milk of lime. 3. Place them over 
 night in a hydrochloric acid bath of 3 
 Beaume. 4. Rinse them thoroughly to 
 remove all traces of acid. 5. Boil for 4 
 hours in a solution of soda of 5 Beaume. 
 6. Remove all traces of the solution of 
 soda by rinsing. 7. Place them for 6 
 hours in a perfectly clear bath of chlo- 
 ride of lime of 4 Beaume. 8. Place 
 them for half an hour in the hydro- 
 chloric acid bath. 9. Remove all traces 
 of acid by rinsing. 
 
 In place of the hydrochloric acid 
 bath a sulphuric acid bath may be used. 
 The lime separated by this has the 
 effect of loading the fibre. 
 
 Cotton, as it comes from the spinning 
 machine, can be bleached by placing it 
 in a hermetically closed box and passing 
 through a current of freshly developed 
 chloroform. The chloroform is devel- 
 oped in an alembic from equal parts of 
 chloride of lime, 'caustic time, and alco- 
 hol, and a sufficient quantity of water 
 to form a thin paste, and enters the box 
 in the form of vapor. Towards the end 
 of the operation sulphuric acid is slowly 
 added to the chloroform mixture, where- 
 by the development of vapor is pro- 
 moted. After the vapor has acted upon 
 the cotton for 1 hour the alembic is re- 
 
BLEACHING. 
 
 moved and a strong current of a mix- 
 ture of carbonic acid, vapor of ether, 
 and hydrogen gas is passed into the box 
 for 10 to 12 hours, when the cotton will 
 be thoroughly bleached and is dried in 
 the drying room. 
 
 Bleaching of Woollen Tissues. The 
 process of bleaching woollen tissues 
 may be divided into Cleansing and 
 Bleaching the goods. 
 
 1. Cleansing. This is done with soap 
 and soda in a special apparatus. Woven 
 woollen goods should not be brought 
 into the apparatus in loose folds like 
 cotton, but must be kept stretched, or 
 else they lose much of their beauty. 
 The temperature of the bath must not 
 be raised too high. If the goods are to 
 be bleached entirely white the treat- 
 ment with soda and soap must be re- 
 peated several times. Clauzon cleanses 
 the wool without employing heat, and 
 uses for this purpose a weak solution of 
 ordinary soda, brings it then into very 
 dilute sulphuric acid, and finally into 
 water. For very fine goods he uses 
 ammonium carbonate instead of soda. 
 In bleaching he first dips the wool in a 
 solution of soda, then exposes it to the 
 fumes of burning sulphur, and finally 
 washes it. 
 
 The use of caustic soda is not without 
 danger, as, besides the fatty substances, 
 the wool itself may be decomposed. 
 The operation must be carefully and 
 constantly watched to prevent the pres- 
 ence of an excess of caustic soda in the 
 bath. When the cloths have been 
 thoroughly cleansed the next opera- 
 tion is 
 
 2. Bleaching. This is accomplished 
 by means of sulphurous acid. This 
 gas has an entirely different effect from 
 that of chlorine, as, instead of destroy- 
 ing the coloring matter, or of transform- 
 ing it so that it can be removed from 
 the goods by washing, it forms a per- 
 manent combination which remains 
 fastened upon the fibre. The sulphur- 
 ing; is done either with gaseous or with 
 fluid sulphurous acid. In the first 
 process, which is generally employed, 
 large chambers which can be hermeti- 
 cally closed are used. These are pro- 
 vided with valves, opening inward, for 
 the admittance of air during the time 
 the gaseous acid is absorbed by the 
 cloth. After the goods hflve been 
 
 stretched over frames in the chamber, 
 an iron pot containing sulphur is placed 
 in the room, which is then hermetically 
 closed. The developed sulphurous acid 
 is absorbed by the wet goods and comes 
 in contact with the coloring matter and 
 bleaches it. A rarefied space is formed 
 by the absorption, but this is immedi- 
 ately equalized by the air entering 
 through the above-mentioned valves, 
 which supply the oxygen necessary 
 for the combustion of the sulphur. 
 The goods remain for 24 hours ex- 
 posed to the action of the sulphur- 
 ous acid, although sometimes this is 
 not sufficient. If this should be the 
 case, a fresh quantity of sulphur is 
 placed in the room and the operation 
 repeated. 
 
 Forty pieces of goods from 20 to 30 
 yards long are arranged together, singed 
 like cotton goods, and then treated as 
 follows : 1. Bring them 3 times into a 
 bath composed of 25 pounds of crystal- 
 lized soda and 12 pounds of soap to 125 
 to 150 gallons of water, and heated to 
 about 100 F. Add i to J of a pound 
 of soap to the bath every time after the 
 goods nave been passed through it. 2. 
 Rinse them twice in clean water of the 
 same temperature. 3. Bring them 3 
 times into a similar bath as No. 1, but 
 containing no soap. After having been 
 passed through for the first time add k 
 pound of fresh soda to the bath. 4. Sul- 
 phur them for 12 hours in the apparatus 
 mentioned above. Twenty -five pounds 
 of sulphur are burned for the 40 pieces. 
 5. Bring them 3 times into a bath con- 
 taining 30 pounds of soda to 125 to 150 
 gallons of water, and heated to 120 F. 
 Add i pound of soda to the bath each 
 time after the goods have been passed 
 through it. 6. Second sulphuring like 
 No. 4. 7. Repeat the bath as in No. 5. 
 
 8. Wash them twice in water of 85 F. 
 
 9. Sulphur them for 12 hours. 10. Wash 
 them twice in lukewarm and once in 
 cold water. 11. Blue then* with in- 
 digo. 
 
 These operations generally suffice for 
 ordinary woollen goods, but not if they 
 contain much coloring matter, or if they 
 are intended for fine dyes. All traces 
 of fatty matter must be removed, a^ 
 they exert an injurious effect upon the 
 dyestuffs. In these cases the following 
 process is employed ; After singeing and 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 washing the goods in water pass them, 
 1. Through an alkaline soap bath con- 
 sisting of 50 pounds of crystallized soda 
 and 10 pounds of soap to 125 to 150 gal- 
 lons of water, and heated to 140 to 150 
 F. 2. Rinse them in warm water. 3. 
 Pass them twice through a bath consist- 
 ing of 25 pounds of soda to the same 
 quantity of water as No. 1 and of the 
 same temperature. 4. Wash them in 
 warm water. 5. Sulphur them for 10 
 hours with 25 pounds of sulphur for 
 250 pieces. 6. Wash them. 7. Pass 
 them twice through a bath of 16 
 pounds of soda to the same quantity of 
 water as No. 1, but heated to 140 to 
 150 F. 8. Pass them twice through a 
 bath of 13 pounds of soda to the same 
 quantity of water as No. 1, but heated i 
 to 140 to 150 F. 9. Wash them in 
 warm water. 10. Sulphur with 17 
 pounds of sulphur to the same number 
 of pieces. 11. Wash, and, 12. Blue 
 them. 
 
 To Keep Woollen Goods White. The 
 goods, after bleaching by sulphuring, 
 are placed in a bath of 10 gallons of 
 water, 3 pounds of castile soap, and 1 
 to li pounds of spirit of sal ammoniac. 
 The addition of sal ammoniac prevents 
 the goods from turning yellow when 
 stored, and that of soap from feeling 
 rough to the touch. 
 
 To Bleach Wool without Sulphur. 
 The loose wool, or yarn, is thoroughly 
 washed with soda and soap in the ordi- 
 nary manner. It is then brought into 
 a cold bath of 2 pounds of hyposulphite 
 of sodium to 11 gallons of water, where 
 it remains for 1 hour, when it is taken 
 out. 6^ pounds of hydrochloric acid 
 are then added to the same bath, the 
 wool is replaced in it, and allowed to 
 remain for 1 hour. The vessel con- 
 taining the wool must be well covered 
 during the last treatment, and the bath 
 must be large enough to conveniently 
 handle the wool in it. The loose wool, 
 or yarn, acquires, by this operation, 
 a much better appearance than that 
 bleached with sulphur, and keeps white 
 for a longer time. 
 
 To make Wool bleached without Sul- 
 pJnir beautifully White. Take to 1 
 part of spun wool 2 of chalk, scrape 
 this fine arid stir it into a thin paste 
 with soft water. The wool is thoroughly 
 rubbed with this paste, as if it were to 
 
 be washed with soap, and is thus left 
 for 24 hours. It is then rinsed in soft 
 water until all traces of the chalk 
 are removed. By repeating the oper- 
 ation the white becomes more bril- 
 liant. 
 
 Bleaching of Silk. Raw silk , accord- 
 ing to R. Wagner, can be bleached en- 
 tirely white without previously remov- 
 ing the gum by boiling, and with but 
 a small loss of weight. This is done by 
 digesting the raw silk in a mixture of 1 
 part of hydrochloric acid and 23 of 
 alcohol. The fluid assumes a green 
 color, and the silk, after it has been 
 washed and dried will be perfectly 
 white. One hundred parts by weight 
 of raw silk give by this process 97.19 
 parts by weight of bleached silk. The 
 loss in weight, therefore, amounts to 
 but 2.91 per cent. 
 
 Quick Method of Bleaching Flax 
 Yarn, according to C. Hartmann. 
 The yarns are soaked for 48 hours in 
 water at 110 to 122 F., to dissolve the 
 dirt accumulated in spinning. The 
 water is then drawn off and fresh water 
 poured over them until it runs oft' quite 
 clear. The yarns are then dried and 
 boiled 2 to 3 hours in a soda lye of 
 2i to 3 Twaddle. Fresh water is 
 again poured over them until it runs 
 off clear. The yarns are dried, and 
 again boiled in equally strong lye, and 
 soaked in water. They are then dried 
 and winched in a solution of sodium 
 chloride | to 1 Twaddle strong, or in 
 a solution of chlorine. They are then 
 thoroughly washed and laid upon the 
 bleaching ground, where they remain 
 for 8 days, are then turned and allowed 
 to remain for 3 days longer. They are 
 then again boiled, treated as above, 
 dried, brought into a weak chlorine 
 bath, dried, and placed upon the bleach- 
 ing ground. If the yarns are to be only 
 f bleached, they are placed in a 1 
 strong solution of sulphuric acid. If 
 they are to be bleached entirely white, 
 they are boiled a fourth time in the 
 same manner as above, and, after hav- 
 ing been dried, are brought into a weak 
 chlorine bath, and finally in a sulphuric 
 acid bath as above. 
 
 For a better comparative view, Hart- 
 mann recapitulates the process for en- 
 tirely bleached and bleached yarns 
 as follows : 
 
BLEACHING. 
 
 37 
 
 Entirely Bleached. 
 
 I Bleached. 
 
 Soaking 48 hours. 
 
 Soaking 48 hours. 
 
 Rinsing with water. 
 
 Rinsing with water. 
 
 Drying. 
 
 Boiling with soda 4 
 
 Drying. 
 Boiling with soda 4 
 
 hours. 
 
 hours. 
 
 Rinsing with water. 
 
 Rinsing with water. 
 
 Drying. 
 
 Drying. 
 
 Boiling with soda. 
 
 foiling with soda. 
 
 Rinsing with water. 
 
 Rinsing with water. 
 
 Drying. 
 Chlorine bath or 
 
 Drying. 
 Chlorine bath or 
 
 winching. 
 
 winching. 
 
 Washing. 
 
 Washing. 
 
 Eight days upon the 
 bleaching ground. 
 
 Eight days upon the 
 bleaching ground. 
 
 Turning upon the 
 
 Turning upon the 
 
 bleaching ground. 
 
 bleaching ground. 
 
 Boiling with soda. 
 
 Boiling with soda. 
 
 Rinsing with water. 
 
 Rinsing with water. 
 
 Drying. 
 
 Drying. 
 
 Chlorine bath. 
 
 Chlorine bath. 
 
 Washing. 
 
 Washing. 
 
 Four to 6 days upon 
 
 Sulphuric acid bath. 
 
 the bleaching ground. 
 
 Drying. 
 
 Boiling with soda. 
 
 
 Rinsing in water. 
 
 
 Drying. 
 Chlorine bath. 
 
 
 Washing. 
 
 
 Sulphuric acid bath 
 
 
 and washing. 
 
 
 Drying. 
 
 
 Harfmann remarks that the yarns 
 should be washed as little as possible, 
 or else they will lose too much weight, 
 which should never amount to more 
 than 18 to '20 per cent. After each boil- 
 ing, rinsing the yarns in water is suf- 
 ficient, but washing is absolutely neces- 
 sary, after treating them in the chlorine 
 bath, and with sulphuric acid. 
 
 To Bleach S/toncjf's. Beat the sponges 
 carefully, and then place them in a 
 mixture of 1 part of hydrochloric acid 
 and 20 of water. They are then boiled 
 in water and thoroughly washed, after 
 which they are placed in a water bath 
 to which a sufficient quantity of sul- 
 phuric acid has been added to bring it 
 to 4 Beaume. This bath is com- 
 pounded with bleaching liquor, until 
 it is entirely saturated with gas. The 
 sponges remain in this for half an hour, 
 when they are taken out, rinsed off in 
 soft water, and passed through an acid 
 bath. They are placed several times 
 in succession in a bath acidulated with 
 sulphuric acid to 4 Beaume, and to 
 which a sufficient quantity of potassium 
 hydrate or of sodium hydrate has been 
 added to impregnate it with gas. The 
 sponges remain here for some time, 
 
 when they are taken out, rinsed in soft 
 water, squeezed out and dried. 
 
 To Bleach and Harden Tallow. 
 Place 100 pounds of the brownish tal- 
 low in a copper boiler, and add -i gal- 
 lon of clean water. Then melt the tal- 
 Jow at a moderate heat, and add, with 
 constant stirring, a mixture of 1 pound 
 of sulphuric acid in H gallons of water. 
 Next add i pound of finely powdered 
 potassium bichromate, and finally 1-i 
 gallons of pure water. The fire is now 
 allowed to go out, and the tallow, which 
 will be as clear as water, and of slightly 
 greenish tint, is left to congeal, when it 
 is skimmed from the dark green fluid 
 on the bottom of the boiler. 
 
 To Bleach Bristles. Wash the bris- 
 tles thoroughly in a solution of soft soap 
 in tepid water ; then rinse them in cold 
 water. Now place them for 2 or 3 days 
 in a saturated aqueous solution of sul- 
 phurous acid, wash them in clean water 
 and dry them. 
 
 To Bleach Copper Plate Engravings, 
 Woodcuts, etc. Place a quantity of 
 phosphorus in glass carboy with a wide 
 mouth, such as is used for storing sul- 
 phuric acid will answer the purpose. 
 Pour into the carboy sufficient water at 
 85 F. to half cover the phosphorus 
 fragments. Close the carboy loosely 
 with a cork, and let it stand for 12 or 
 18 hours in a moderately warm place. 
 The paper, print, etc., to be bleached, 
 is moistened with distilled water, then 
 fastened to a platinum wire, and sus- 
 pended in the carboy, where it will be- 
 come entirely white in a short time. 
 But as there will be some acid reaction 
 after the paper has been taken from the 
 carboy, it must be rinsed with water 
 until the latter does not turn blue lit- 
 mus paper red. The paper is then 
 passed through a weak solution of soda, 
 next through clean water, and finally 
 dried upon a glass plate. 
 
 To Bleach Shellac. Rub 2 pounds of 
 chloride of lime to a paste with water, 
 strain this through linen, and wash out 
 the residue with 2 pounds of water. 
 A solution of 1 part of potash in 3 of 
 water is added to the filtrate until no 
 more precipitate is formed, when the 
 precipitate is filtered off. Generally 
 4 ounces of potash or 1 pound of the 
 solution of potash is allowed for 
 pound of chloride of lime. 
 
38 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Two pounds of the shellac to be 
 bleached are digested for a few days in 1 
 gallon of highly-rectified spirit of wine. 
 To this is added, with constant stirring, 
 the above fluid, and, in the course of 
 half an hour, a sufficient quantity of 
 hydrochloric acid is added to produce 
 an acid reaction. 
 
 The shellac will assume the appear- 
 ance of a white, tough mass. This is 
 freed from the acid by rinsing, and 
 washed with boiling water until this 
 has no longer a milky appearance. 
 The shellac is then placed upon a moist 
 board, formed into strips, and dried in 
 the air. 
 
 The fluid, which is first poured off, is 
 saturated with hydrate of lime, and the 
 spirit of wine contained in it can then 
 be recovered by distillation. 
 
 To Bleach Straw. There is no better 
 process than treatment with sulphur in 
 connection with very weak chlorine, as 
 by this the straw will lose nothing of 
 its lustre and durability. Bleaching 
 by natural means does not suffice, as 
 the coloring matter is not sufficiently 
 destroyed, and, moreover, the straw will 
 lose its durability by having to remain 
 for a long time upon the bleaching 
 ground. Bleaching by chlorine alone 
 cannot be recommended ; for although 
 it exerts a powerful bleaching effect 
 upon straw, as it must be used very 
 strong, it makes the straw brittle and 
 destroys its lustre. In using sulphur 
 in combination with chlorine, the straw 
 is first soaked for 24 hours in hot water, 
 and then boiled for 3 hours in water 
 containing 1 pound of potash to 9 gal- 
 lons of water. The straw is then soaked 
 in cold water, this being repeated until 
 the water runs off entirely colorless. 
 The straw is now boiled in a lye half as 
 strong as the first and then soaked in 
 cold water for '3 days. This finishes 
 the cleansing operation. The straw is 
 now subjected to the actual bleaching 
 process. For this purpose it is brought 
 into a hermetically closed chamber and 
 exposed, while still moist, for 12 to 16 
 hours to the action of sulphurous vapors 
 
 ? reduced by the combustion of sulphur, 
 fc is washed in water and soaked for 
 about 30 hours in a very dilute solution 
 of chloride of lime, which should be as 
 clear as water. It is then rinsed off 
 with pure water, and finally, to free it 
 
 from the odor of chlorine, a very weak 
 solution of sodium hyposulphite is 
 poured over it and allowed to act upon 
 it for several hours. When the odor 
 of chlorine has disappeared the straw 
 is washed with pure water and 
 dried. 
 
 David's New Process of Bleaching. 
 Gaseous chlorine is generated in a closed 
 receptacle by one of the ordinary meth- 
 ods (as by the action of an acid on 
 chloride of lime diluted with water), 
 and is conveyed by a pipe into a cham- 
 ber containing the articles to be 
 bleached. The sides of the chamber 
 are constructed of a transparent mate- 
 rial in order to admit the entrance of 
 light, which assists considerably in the 
 process of decolorization. After some 
 length of time, varying with the nature 
 of the articles to be bleached, a rapid 
 current of carbonic acid gas, obtained 
 by any of the well-known methods, is 
 sent into the chamber. The apparatus 
 in which the carbonic acid is generated 
 communicates with a vessel containing 
 liquid ammonia, the fumes of which 
 combine with the carbonic acid and are 
 conveyed into the chamber, where the 
 two gases neutralize the hydrochloric 
 acid and accelerate the decolorization 
 of the materials contained therein. The 
 ammonia should be contained in a ves- 
 sel of such a shape that the evaporating 
 surface of the liquid can be augmented 
 or diminished according to the quantity 
 of chlorine employed. 
 
 In the second process, permanganate 
 of lime is obtained by the action of per- 
 oxide or binoxide of manganese on lime 
 aided by heat in the following manner : 
 One part by weight of peroxide of man- 
 ganese and 3 parts by weight of quick- 
 lime in powder are mixed together and 
 submitted to a red heat for about 3 
 hours. When the heat has been con- 
 tinued for 1 hour a rapid current of 
 carbonic acid is passed through the 
 mixture and continued until the pro- 
 cess is completed ; the object of this 
 being to peroxidize the compound. The 
 permanganate of lime thus prepared is 
 placed in a closed receptacle which 
 communicates by a pipe with the 
 bleaching chamber, ordinary sulphuric 
 acid is gradually added, and "ozonized 
 oxygen" is evolved. In order to accel- 
 erate the evolution of this gas a vegeta- 
 
BOILER INCRUSTATIONS. 
 
 ble acid in quantity equal to the sul- 
 phuric acid is added. 
 
 lu the third process phosphorus and 
 acetic acid are employed. The produc- 
 tion of ozone by means of phosphorus 
 in a moist atmosphere is well known, 
 but the quantity thus obtained is very 
 small. By causing air which has been 
 previously forced through acetic acid 
 to bubble through the water containing 
 the phosphorus, the quantity of ozone 
 is considerably increased. The ozone 
 is conveyed to the bleaching chamber 
 in the same manner as before de- 
 scribed, the air being forced through 
 the liquids by means of a fan. 
 
 When the materials are removed 
 from the bleaching chamber it is de- 
 sirable to expose them for a time to the 
 action of the atmosphere in order to 
 remove the odor of ozone. This pro- j 
 cess is adapted to the bleaching of raw 
 or worked materials, especially those 
 which from their shape or nature can- 
 not be immersed in a liquid, and also 
 to books, papers, and engravings. 
 
 To Bleach Stained Marble, Soap 
 the stained marble with a fine piece of 
 linen. Then cover it with a cloth and 
 pour upon this a solution of 1 ounce of 
 cream of tartar in 2V gallons of water. 
 Repeat the moistening 6 to 8 times a 
 day for 6 weeks, and expose the marble 
 to the action of the sun, when the 
 stains will be removed and the marble 
 become entirely wbite. Cracks in 
 white marble are filled with a paste of 
 powdered alabaster with glue water; 
 for gray marble a paste of powdered 
 slate and glue water is used; for red 
 marble, ochre, etc. 
 
 BOILER INCRUSTATIONS. 
 
 The following remedies are recom- 
 mended to remove and prevent boiler 
 incrustations : 
 
 Saillard's Receipt. 
 
 Catechu 100 parts. 
 
 Potash 50 " 
 
 Soda 50 " 
 
 Common rosin 10 " 
 
 Lime 20 " 
 
 Water 200 " 
 
 The lime, rosin, soda, and water are 
 boileu for 30 minutes and then allowed 
 
 to settle. A decoction of the catechu 
 in 100 parts of water is prepared in an- 
 other boiler, strained, aud mixed with 
 the other solution. The fluid is then 
 stored for future use. Every 6 weeks 1 
 pint of the liquor for each horse-power 
 is introduced into a boiler by means of 
 the feed-pump. 
 
 For a 10 horse-power boiler, fed with 
 water containing calcic sulphate, take : 
 
 Catechu 4 pounds. 
 
 Dextrine 2 
 
 Crystallized soda 4 
 
 Potash 1 pound. 
 
 Cane sugar 1 
 
 Alum 1 
 
 Gum Arabic 1 
 
 For a boiler of the same size, fed with 
 water containing lime, take : 
 
 Turmeric 4 pounds. 
 
 Dextrine 2 " 
 
 Sodium bicarbonate 4 " 
 
 Potash I 
 
 Molasses > each 1 pound. 
 
 Alum J 
 
 For a boiler of the same size, fed with 
 water containing iron, take : 
 
 Gamboge . .... 4 pounds. 
 
 Soda 4 " 
 
 Dextrine 2 
 
 Potash 
 Sugar 
 Alum 
 Gi 
 
 Dextrine . . 
 
 Potash "j 
 
 Sugar 
 
 Unm 
 
 Sum Arabic J 
 
 each 1 pound. 
 
 For a boiler of the same size, fed with 
 sea water, take : 
 
 Catechu 4 pounds. 
 
 Glauber's salt 4 " 
 
 Dextrine 4 " 
 
 Alum 1 pound. 
 
 Gum Arabic 1 " 
 
 When one of the above preparations 
 is to be used i gallon of water is added 
 to it, and, in ordinary incrustation, the 
 boiler is charged with it every month; 
 but, if the incrustation is strong, every 
 2 weeks. 
 
 For boilers of 30 horse-power, fed 
 with river water, the following mixture 
 is used, which should be renewed every 
 time the boiler is emptied : 
 
 Crystallized soda 6 pounds. 
 
 Dextrine 6 " 
 
 Alum 2 " 
 
 Potash 1 pound. 
 
40 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 For the same sized boiler, fed with sea 
 water : 
 
 Soda 8 pounds. 
 
 Dextrine 8 " 
 
 Sugar 4 " 
 
 Alum 1 pound. 
 
 Potash 1 " 
 
 Alfieri's Receipt. A mixture of 250 
 parts of carbonate of baryta, 325 of am- 
 monium nitrate, 225 of sodium chloride, 
 and 200 of animal charcoal, prevents in- 
 crustations, and dissolves those already 
 formed. 
 
 BaudeCs Preventive consists of 15 
 parts of sodium hyposulphite, 10 of rain 
 water, and 10 of glycerine. It aug- 
 ments the solubility of gypsum (calcic 
 sulphate), and separates the carbonates 
 and phosphates in the form of powder, 
 and the other salt forms a jelly with the 
 glycerine. 
 
 Itogers' Preventives. Dr. Joseph G. 
 Rogers has proposed two methods for 
 preventing boiler incrustation : one con- 
 sists in introducing into the boiler a 
 sufficient quantity of sodium oxalate, 
 which converts the scale-forming im- 
 purities of the feed water into insoluble 
 oxalates as soon as they enter the boiler. 
 These oxalates are precipitated as a 
 mushy sediment, which has no tendency 
 to form scale, and which may be blown 
 out from the mud drum from time to 
 time: another consists in the use of 
 sodium tannate, which is kept con- 
 stantly present in the boiler in solution ; 
 it decomposes the calcium and mag- 
 nesium carbonates as they enter, tan- 
 nates being precipitated in a light, 
 flocculent, amorphous form, which 
 gradually accumulate in the mud 
 drum, from which they may be readily 
 blown out from time to time. The so- 
 dium carbonate formed in the reaction 
 remains in solution, becoming bicar- 
 bonate by appropriation of the free car- 
 bonic acid in the water. This reacts 
 upon the calcium sulphate, forming 
 sodium sulphate and calcium carbon- 
 ate, which latter in turn is acted on as 
 above by fresh portions of the sodjum 
 tannate. The constant presence of the 
 alkali protects the iron from any in- 
 jurious action of the tannic acid'. A 
 similar reaction will take place be- 
 tween the tannate and the already 
 formed scale, though the action Avill be 
 a gradual one. 
 
 Rogers' processes are based on sound 
 chemical principles, and can be com- 
 mended. (W.) 
 
 BONE,HORN, AND IVORY TO BLEACH 
 AND DYE THEM, AND MAKE IMITA- 
 TIONS AND COMPOSITIONS. 
 
 To Bleach Bone and Ivory. Prepare 
 a solution of 1 part of fresh chloride of 
 lime in 4 of water. Place in it the dis- 
 colored articles of bone or ivory, and 
 allow them to remain for a few days. 
 Then take them out, wash, and dry 
 them in the open air. Articles of ivory 
 must remain somewhat longer in the 
 solution. 
 
 To Bleach Bones. Place the bones 
 in a mixture of unslacked lime, bran 
 and water, and boil them until they are 
 entirely free from fatty substances, and 
 are white. 
 
 JJedinger's Method of Bleaching 
 Bones for Turners' Use. Pour oil of 
 turpentine over the bones in tin boxes 
 which can be hermetically closed, let 
 them remain for 10 hours, remove, and 
 boil them for 3 hours in water contain- 
 ing soft soap. Skim oft' the impurities 
 floating on the surface, cool the hot 
 water with cold, and dry the bones upon 
 pine boards in the open air protected 
 from the sun. 
 
 Peineman's Process of Bleaching 
 Ivory turned Yellow. According to one 
 receipt, the ivory is placed in a satur- 
 ated solution of alum, and allowed to 
 soak in it for 1 hour. It is then rubbed 
 with a woollen cloth, next wrapped in 
 linen, and allowed to dry. 
 
 The other process Avhich, according 
 to experiments we have made, is to be 
 preferred, is as follows : Prepare a thin 
 lime paste, heat it over a fire, place the 
 ivory in it, and allow it to remain until 
 it has become white. Then take it out, 
 dry, and polish. 
 
 To Make Ivory Soft and flexible. 
 Place the ivory articles in a solution of 
 phosphoric acid of 1.1 30 specific gravity, 
 and allow them to remain in it until 
 they have assumed a transparent ap- 
 pearance. Then take them out of the 
 acid, wash them carefully in water, and 
 dry them between soft linen. They are 
 now as soft as thick leather, become 
 hard on exposure to the air, but regain 
 
BONE, HORN, IVORY, ETC. 
 
 41 
 
 their plasticity in warm water. Weaker 
 phosphoric acid than the above has no 
 effect. 
 
 New Process of Bleaching Ivory and 
 Bones. The following is a very effi- 
 cacious means of removing the dis- 
 agreeable odor and fatty emanations of 
 bones or ivory, while it leaves them 
 beautifully bleached. The articles are 
 placed in a glass vessel with oil of 
 turpentine, and exposed to the sun for 
 3 or 4 days ; a little longer in the shade. 
 The turpentine acts as an oxidizing 
 agent, and forms an acid liquor which 
 sinks to the bottom of the vessel, and 
 strongly attacks the bones if they are 
 allowed to touch it. To prevent this 
 they should rest upon strips of zinc, so 
 as to be a fraction of an inch above the 
 bottom of the vessel. The action of the 
 turpentine is not confined to bones and 
 ivorv, but extends to wood of various 
 kinds, especially beech, maple, elm, 
 and cork. 
 
 Dyeing of Bone and Ivory. Bone 
 and ivory are dyed either without any 
 preliminary preparation, or are first 
 treated for 3 to 4 days with a mixture 
 of sulphuric acid and water, with an 
 addition of a small quantity of tartaric 
 acid, until they are rough and can be 
 pressed with the fingers. 
 
 The articles may also be placed in 
 boiling vinegar instead of the diluted 
 mineral acid. After the ivory has been 
 softened in this manner it can be dyed 
 by placing it in the alcoholic solution 
 of any coloring substance, and then 
 worked into the article for which it is 
 intended. The original hardness is re- 
 stored by wrapping it in a sheet of 
 white paper covered with dry, decrep- 
 itated common salt, and allowed to 
 remain for 24 hours. 
 
 If alcoholic solutions are not used, 
 the ivory must first be placed in a mor- 
 dant. This, for most colors, consists of 
 tin salt or a solution of stannous sul- 
 
 Ehide, obtained from 4 parts of tin, 6 of 
 ydrochloric acid, 8 of sulphuric acid, 
 and 6 of water. 
 
 Receipts for Different Colors. 
 Yellow. I. Prepare a decoction of 
 rasped fustic in water, place the ivory 
 in a solution of tin in aqua regia, and 
 then in the decoction of fustic, which 
 should be previously strained. 
 
 II. An orange color is obtained by 
 adding shavings of Brazil wood. 
 
 III. Or, place the ivory in a concen- 
 trated solution, of potassium chromate 
 and then in a boiling hot solution of 
 sugar of lead in water. 
 
 IV. Mordant the ivory in a solution 
 of stannous sulphide or of alum and 
 then place it in a hot decoction of weld. 
 
 V. Place the ivory in a solution of 
 yellow orpiment saturated with am- 
 monia. 
 
 Jit ne. I. Prepare a highly diluted 
 solution of sulphindigotic acid, which 
 must be partly saturated with potash. 
 Allow the ivory to remain in this for a 
 longer or shorter time, according to the 
 intensity of the color desired. 
 
 II. Dissolved precipitated indigo 
 (blue carmine) may also be used for 
 dyeing ivory blue. Hydrochloric acid 
 should be used as a mordant instead of 
 nitric acid, as the latter colors the car- 
 tilage yellow and therefore produces a 
 green color with the indigo. 
 
 Green.. I. Dip the articles already 
 dyed blue for a few minutes in a solu- 
 tion of tin in aqua regia, and finish 
 dyeing in a hot decoction of fustic in 
 water. 
 
 II. Dip tbe ivory in a solution of 
 verdigris in vinegar. 
 
 III. Place the ivory for a few hours 
 in a partly saturated solution of potas- 
 sium chromate, and expose it for some 
 time to the direct rays of the sun. It 
 will acquire a dark bhiish-gveen color. 
 
 IV. It has been recommended to 
 treat the articles to be dyed green, first 
 with nitric acid, then with a solution 
 of yellow prussiate of potash (potassium 
 ferrocyanide) and an iron salt, and 
 finally with a solution of picric acid. 
 
 Red. I. Place the articles for a few 
 minutes in a solution of tin in aqua, 
 regia and then in a hot decoction of 
 Brazil wood, cochineal, etc v which 
 should first be strained. 
 
 II. Boil the ivory with f pound of 
 Brazil wood and 1 gallon of water, then 
 add i pound of alum, and boil once 
 more. 
 
 III. Dip the ivory in a weak solution 
 of aqua fortis and then place it in a 
 solution of carmine. 
 
 IV. A more beautiful red is obtained 
 by finishing the dyeing in a decoction 
 of cochineal, or dissolving the carmiue 
 
42 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 in ammonia. When cochineal is used 
 add alum and a small quantity of tar- 
 taric acid to the bath. 
 
 Crimson, a. Preparation of the Mor- 
 dant. Place the prepared and polished 
 ivory in a solution of i pound of chlo- 
 ride of zinc in i pint of rain or distilled 
 water ; allow it to remain 1 hour, though 
 a longer time does no harm. 
 
 b. Preparation of the Dye. Boil for 
 
 5 minutes in a porcelain saucer 1 ounce 
 of cochineal and 2 pinches of purified 
 tartar in 1 pint of water. Then, 
 
 I. Place the mordanted ivory in the 
 fluid and boil until it has acquired a 
 beautiful crimson color. If a darker 
 tint is desired, repeat the process, rinse 
 the ivory off with clean water, dry, and 
 lacquer it with bookbinders' lacquer. 
 
 II. A carmine color is also produced 
 by rubbing 2 drachms of carmine with 
 
 6 drachms of crystallized soda and com- 
 pounding them with li pints of water. 
 To the solution add acetic acid slightly 
 in excess. Boil the ivory in this bath 
 until it has acquired the desired color. 
 
 III. The articles are first dyed in a 
 decoction of weld and then in a solu- 
 tion of carmine. To prepare the latter, 
 dissolve a pinch (as much as will lay 
 upon the point of a knife) of carmine 
 in 4i fluid ounces of spirit of sal am- 
 moniac, dilute the solution with 1 pint 
 of N water and heat the bath. Then 
 place the articles in it and allow them 
 to remain until they are sufficiently 
 dyed. A still more brilliant color will 
 be produced by mordanting the articles 
 with a solution of phosphate of tin in- 
 stead of with stannous sulphide. 
 
 Cherry-Red. This is obtained by 
 placing the articles which have been 
 dyed crimson in an aqueous solution of 
 potash. 
 
 Purple. Boil the ivory in a decoction 
 of logwood, then add for every pint of 
 the decoction i ounce of alum and boil 
 the articles in this. 
 
 Violet. I. The articles are mordanted 
 with the solution of tin, as given under 
 carmine, and then brought into a de- 
 coction of logwood in water. 
 
 II. Dye the ivory red and then dip 
 for a moment in a solution of indigo. 
 
 Lilac is obtained by placing the mor- 
 danted ivory in a nearly exhausted bath 
 of logwood. 
 
 I, Place the ivory for some 
 
 time in a diluted solution of nitrate of 
 silver and then expose it to the sun. 
 But as the color has frequently a green- 
 ish shade it will be necessary to repeat 
 the operation several times to deepen 
 the black. 
 
 II. A beautiful black color is ob- 
 tained by boiling the ivory in a strained 
 decoction of rasped logwood, then tak- 
 ing it out and placing it in a solution 
 of sulphate or acetate of iron. 
 
 III. Boil the articles first in a de- 
 coction of gall-nuts and logwood and 
 then in a solution of sulphate or acetate 
 of iron. If, as for instance in billiard 
 balls, white stripes are desired on a 
 black ground, lay a ribbon saturated 
 with wax around the ball and wrap 
 some cord around it. The places thus 
 covered will remain white in dyeing. 
 We will remark here that all colors 
 adhere better to unpolished than to 
 polished ivory, and it is therefore bet- 
 ter to polish the articles after they have 
 been dyed. This is done by rubbing 
 with soap and Vienna lime with the 
 naked hand. In dyeing the boiling 
 should not be continued too long or else 
 the ivory will become full of cracks, 
 and the pieces should be cooled off 
 quickly by being placed in cold water 
 when taken out of the dye. 
 
 To Produce Black and Colored 
 Drawings upon Ivory. Rub 1 ounce 
 of tears or drops of mastic to a fine 
 powder and gradually pour into it the 
 same quantity of melted wax, to which 
 add 9 drachms of powdered asphaltum, 
 and stir them into a homogeneous mass 
 which should be placed in tepid water, 
 and, after cooling, rolled into balls 
 about 1 inch in diameter, and when 
 entirely cold wrapped in taffeta. AVhite 
 wax is cheaper and can be substituted 
 for mastic by using the following pro- 
 portions: 2 ounces of asphaltum, 1 
 ounce of rosin, and 9 drachms of wax. 
 The warmed and polished surface of 
 the ivory is covered with this and the 
 drawing scratched into the ivory sur- 
 face. Concentrated sulphuric acid is 
 poured over the wax enamel and forms 
 a black deposit upon the surface of the 
 ivory exposed by the etching. Warm- 
 ing the ivory or acid facilitates the 
 operation. Immersion in a solution of 
 nitrate of silver, and> subsequent ex- 
 posure to the sun, gives also a very 
 
BONE, HORN, IVORY, ETC. 
 
 durable black etching. Solution of 
 gold gives purple. The etching ground 
 is removed with oil of turpentine. 
 
 Artificial Ivory. I. Comminute the 
 waste of ivory, bones, horn, etc., by 
 rasping, and immerse the shavings in a 
 somewhat diluted solution of a mineral 
 or vegetable acid. The maceration of 
 the 'material may be accelerated by 
 heating in a water bath to 95 or 100 
 F. Strain and compound the shavings 
 with | of their volume of ivory glue, 
 and free them from excessive moisture 
 by means of an air-pump. The mass is 
 then mixed with a solution of copal in 
 alcohol and poured into sulphur moulds, 
 where it soon becomes hard. This arti- 
 ficial ivory has the appearance of genu- 
 ine ; thin plates of it are as translucent 
 and can be dyed in the same manner. 
 
 Artificial Ivory for Photographic 
 Purposes. Allow glue or gelatine to 
 remain in a bath of acetate or sulphate 
 of alumina until it combines with the 
 alumina. The mass is dried until it 
 becomes hard and is polished in the 
 same manner as genuine ivory. A 
 mixture of equal parts of bone dust, 
 glue, and albumen, brought into a 
 suitable form by rolling and pressing, 
 is also used as a substitute for ivory.* 
 
 New Artificial Ivory. Mix 10 parts 
 by weight of white shellac, 8 of ivory 
 dust, 4 of acetate of lead, and 5 of 
 camphor. Heat the mixture, dry, pow- 
 der, and press it. 
 
 To Bleach Ivory Articles fastened 
 upon Leather, etc. Add hydrochloric 
 acid to a solution of chloride of lime, 
 apply the mixture to the ivory by 
 means of a brush, and then expose it to 
 the action of the sun. To prevent the 
 leather, etc., from being attacked by the 
 bleaching agent, it is best to cut the 
 pattern of the ivory ornament out of 
 strong paper, lay this over the leather, 
 and if necessary fill up the joint with 
 wax. When the ornament is bleached, 
 wash off the particles of lime with a 
 brush and water and polish with chalk. 
 For ornaments of horn the bleaching 
 agent must be applied several times; 
 the acid used may also be more con- 
 centrated, and a paste consisting of 1 
 part of water and 1 of chloride of lime 
 
 * For this purpose nothing equals cellu- 
 loid. (W.) 
 
 may be employed instead of the solu- 
 tion of chloride of lime. 
 
 Artificial Ivory. Two pounds of pure 
 India rubber are dissolved in 32 pounds 
 of chloroform and the solution saturated 
 with purified ammoniacal gas. The 
 chloroform is then distilled off. The 
 residue is mixed with pulverized phos- 
 phate of lime or carbonate of zinc, 
 pressed into moulds, and cooled. When 
 the phosphate of lime is used the result- 
 ing compound partakes in a great de- 
 gree of the nature and composition of 
 genuine ivory. 
 
 Compound for Buttons, Dice, Dpm- 
 inos, etc. The powder or other filings 
 of soapstone (steatite), obtained in the 
 manufacture of gas burners, is saturated 
 with water-glass, dried, and ground. 
 Buttons and similar articles are pressed 
 from this powder, burned in ovens, 
 dipped again in water-glass, and once 
 more burned. They are then placed in 
 a tumbling box with some water and 
 polished by tumbling, dried, and again 
 polished in a similar box with soap- 
 stone powder. Dominos and dice are 
 pressed in a similar manner in dies of 
 brass or steel and then polished. 
 
 A New Method of Treating Horn. 
 By this process horn is converted into 
 a substance resembling whalebone. It 
 consists in first cutting the horn into 
 strips, then softening and pressing flat, 
 and next boiling in a closed boiler in a 
 decoction of sage leaves to which has 
 been added a little potash. Horn, so 
 treated can be rolled into long strips by 
 passing through rollers, and the ends 
 of the strips can be joined together by 
 the pressure of the. rollers; or large 
 sheets may be made by joining the 
 strips at the sides, the rolling firmly unit- 
 ing the edges so as to form one piece. 
 
 To Dye Morn so as to Resemble Tor- 
 toise Shell. I. Make a dough of 2 parts 
 of unslacked lime, and 1 of litharge, by 
 adding a sufficient quantity of soap 
 boiler's lye. Cover with this all parts 
 of the horn which are to be dyed. By 
 placing a brass plate under the horn so 
 treated, the imitation will be still more 
 perfect. 
 
 II. To produce semi-transparent 
 spaces upon horn, mix with the above 
 dough a substance, for instance chalk 
 or fine sand, which will decrease the 
 caustic power of the dough. This treat* 
 
44 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 merit produces red stains upon the sur- 
 face of the horn, which enhances the 
 beauty of the article, and its resemblance 
 to genuine tortoise-shell. 
 
 III. Mix orpiment with filtered lime- 
 water, and apply the solution with a 
 brush. Repeat the application if neces- 
 sary. 
 
 IV. Mix 1 ounce of litharge and 9 
 drachms of uuslacked lime to a paste 
 with a sufficient quantity of wine. 
 This composition is applied to the horn, 
 and removed in 3 or 4 hours. 
 
 V. By using a solution of gold for 
 dyeing the horn, red stains are produced 
 upon it. 
 
 VI. A solution of silver in nitric acid 
 dyes horn black. 
 
 VII. A brown color is obtained- by 
 brushing the horn over with a solution 
 of nitrate of mercury. 
 
 Buttons from Waste of Horn. The 
 waste is pulverized by cylindrical 
 graters, and the powder brought into 
 cylindrical moulds, and subjected to 
 high pressure, the temperature being in- 
 creased at the same time. The cylin- 
 ders of horn thus obtained, as soon as 
 they come from the moulds, and while 
 still hot, are cut into disks of the de- 
 sired thickness. 
 
 BRONZING AND COLORING OF 
 METALS. 
 
 Green Bronze for Brass. No. 1 . Mix 
 80 parts of strong vinegar, 1 of min- 
 eral green, 1 of red umber, 1 of sal-am- 
 moniac, 1 of gtim Arabic, and 1 of green 
 vitriol, and add 4 of Avignon berries 
 (fruit of Rhanmus infectorius). Boil 
 the mixture, and strain when cold. 
 The articles to be bronzed should be 
 cleansed with weak aquafortis, then 
 rinsed, and the fluid applied with a 
 brush. Should the color not be dark 
 enough, heat the article until it cannot 
 be held in the hand, and then give a 
 coat of spirit of wine mixed with a little 
 lamp-black. Finally apply a coat of 
 spirit varnish. 
 
 No. 2. Add to a solution of 8\ drachms 
 of copper in 1 ounce of strong nitric 
 acid 10J fluid ounces of vinegar, 3i 
 drachms of sal-ammoniac, and 6J 
 drachms of aqua-ammonia. Put the 
 liquid in a loosely corked bottle, and 
 allow it to stand in a warm place for a 
 
 few days, when it may be used. After 
 applying it to the articles, dry them, 
 by exposure to heat, and, when dry, ap- 
 ply a coat of linseed oil varnish, which 
 is also dried by heat. 
 
 Chinese "Bronze. Small articles bron- 
 zed by this process possess a peculiar 
 beauty, and lose none of their lustre, 
 even when exposed to atmospheric in- 
 fluences and rain. 
 
 Powder and mix thoroughly 2 parts 
 of crystallized verdigris, 2 of cinnabar, 
 
 2 of sal-ammoniac, 2 of bills and livers 
 of ducks, and 5 of alum. Moisten the 
 mixture with water or spirit of wine, 
 and rub it into a paste. Cleanse the 
 article to be bronzed thoroughly, and 
 polish it with ashes and vinegar. Then 
 apply the paste with a brush. Heat 
 the article over a coal fire, and wash 
 the coating off'. Repeat this operation 
 until the desired brown color is ob- 
 tained. By adding blue vitriol to the 
 mixture, a chestnut brown color is pro- 
 duced, while an addition of borax gives 
 a yellowish shade. 
 
 Bronzing Process used in the Paris 
 Mint. Powder and mix 1 pound each 
 of verdigris and sal-ammoniac. 
 
 Take a quantity of this mixture, as 
 large as a hen's egg, and mix into a 
 dough with vinegar. Place this in a 
 copper pan (not tinned), boil in about 
 5 pints of water for 20 minutes, and then 
 pour off the water. 
 
 For bronzing, pour part of this fluid 
 into a copper pan, place the medals sepa- 
 rately in it upon pieces of wood or glass, 
 so that they do not touch each other, or 
 come in contact with the copper pan, 
 and then boil them in the liquid for a 
 quarter of an hour. 
 
 Oxidized Silver. (Argent oxyde.) 
 Place the silver, or plated, articles in u 
 solution of liver of sulphur diluted with 
 spirit of sal-ammoniac. They are then 
 taken out, washed, dried, and polished. 
 
 The above process produces a blue 
 black tint, while a solution of equal 
 quantities of sal-ammoniac and blue 
 vitriol in vinegar gives a brown shade. 
 
 Antique Green. This can be imitated 
 upon new articles by the following pro- 
 cess: Dissolve 1 part of sal-ammoniac, 
 
 3 of powdered tartar, and 3 of common 
 salt in 12 of boiling water. Tl-en add 
 8 parts of a solution of cuprie nitrate, 
 and coat the articles with the l|uicU 
 
B110N2ING AND COLORING OF METALS. 
 
 45 
 
 Fire-proof Bronze npon Copper and 
 Brass. Dissolve 1 drachm of crystal- 
 lized verdigris and a like quantity of 
 finely-powdered sal-ammoniac in 14 
 ounces of rain-water. Cover the vessel 
 containing the solution, and allow it to 
 stand quietly for 3 to 4 hours, and then 
 add li pints of water. 
 
 In bronzing, hold the copper or brass 
 article over a coal fire and heat to a 
 uniform heat and color. Then brush 
 it over with the above mixture and dry 
 carefully. In case the article is tinned 
 it must not be heated enough to melt 
 the tin. By thus heating copper 5 or 6 
 times it acquires a brassy color, and 
 after 6" to 10 applications a beautiful 
 yellow tint. If it is desired to give a 
 copper article a color shading from yel- 
 low into brown, it must be very "hot 
 when the mixture is applied ; for' light 
 brown the operation must be repeated 
 20 to 25 times. When the copper has 
 acquired the desired color place it at 
 once into clean water, but do not cleanse 
 or dry it immediately after taking it 
 out. In fact the greatest care is here 
 required. It is best to dry the article 
 over a moderate coal fire, when the 
 bronze will become durable and fire- 
 proof. 
 
 Commercial Bronzes. The colors are 
 prepared by beating bronze to thin 
 leaves similar to those of gold. They 
 are then rubbed upon a stone with a 
 pestle, an inspissating agent being 
 added during the process. 
 
 Samples analyzed by Koenig con- 
 tained : 
 
 COLORS. 
 
 PARTS. 
 
 i 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 
 s 
 
 | 
 
 B 
 
 H 
 
 Pule yellow . 
 Bright yellow 
 Orange . 
 Green . . . 
 Copper red 
 Reddish yellow 
 Violet . . . 
 White .... 
 
 82.33 
 84.5(i 
 98.93 
 84.32 
 99.90 
 90.00 
 8.22 
 
 1(1.69 
 1530 
 0.73 
 15.02 
 
 9.f>6 
 0.50 
 2.39 
 
 0.16 
 0.07 
 0.08 
 03 
 trace. 
 0.20 
 0.3' i 
 0.5G 
 
 trace. 
 
 trace. 
 9G.46 
 
 The permanent tone is produced by 
 heating. All bronzes contain a small 
 percentage of fat, the English more 
 than the German. The object of the 
 
 fat is to obtain a uniformly low tem- 
 perature during the superficial oxida- 
 tion of the bronzes. One-half per cent, 
 of wax or paraftine is, for this reason, 
 frequently added to bronzes. 
 
 Bmnzc for Piasters/* Paris Figures. 
 The mass used in France for this pur- 
 pose is prepared as follows : Linseed oil 
 is boiled to a soap with soda lye, com- 
 mon salt being added until the soap 
 separates. This soap is then dissolved 
 in rain-water and compounded with a 
 solution of 4 parts of blue and 1 of green 
 vitriol until a precipitate is no longer 
 formed. The soap is washed out and 
 used for preparing the antique green in 
 connection with a varnish prepared 
 from 12J ounces of litharge and 3 
 pounds of linseed oil and wax. Now 
 melt together 1 pound of varnish, 8J 
 ounces of bronze soap, and 5k ounces 
 of white wax. Apply this to the fig- 
 ure, previously heated to 190 F., by 
 means of a brush. If necessary place 
 the figure in a heated box until it is 
 thoroughly permeated with the color. 
 The raised parts are rubbed with bronze 
 powder. 
 
 Bronze Powders. Melt together in a 
 crucible over a bright fire equal parts 
 of sulphur and the white oxide of tin. 
 Stir them continually with a glass rod 
 until they acquire the appearance of a 
 yellow flaky powder. An iron rod 
 must not be used in stirring any mix- 
 ture of sulphur when melted, as the 
 sulphur and iron will unite. 
 
 Another way to prepare it is to take 
 equal parts of mercury, tin, sulphur, 
 and sal-ammoniac. First melt the tin, 
 then pour the quicksilver into it. When 
 the amalgam thus formed has become 
 cold rub it together with the sulphur 
 and sal-ammoniac. Place the mixture 
 in a crucible and heat until the powder 
 in the crucible becomes gold colored 
 and fumes of mercury cease to arise. 
 
 Copper-colored Bronze Powder. This 
 is prepared by dissolving copper in 
 aquafortis until it is saturated and 
 then placing in the solution some 
 small pieces of iron, when the copper 
 will be precipitated in a metallic state. 
 The fluid is then poured off and the 
 impalpable powder carefully washed, 
 dried, and put away for use. 
 
 Moire Metallique. Cleanse sheet iroK 
 with diluted sulphuric acid, riase In 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 water, and dip it several times in melted 
 tin, covered with melted tallow. Now 
 heat the iron and cool it off quickly in 
 water, and pour over it a mixture of 1 j 
 part of nitric acid, 2 of hydrochloric 
 acid, and 3 of water. Then cleanse it 
 with water, dry, and coat it with lac- 
 quer. The tinned sheet iron prepared 
 in this manner has the appearance of 
 mother of pearl. [The surface of com- 
 mercial tin plate may be given this 
 spangled appearance by the use of the 
 same acid liquor. The acid may be 
 applied with the end of a sponge or 
 pad of tow, and followed always by a 
 thorough rinsing in water. The span- 
 gled appearance is produced by the 
 solution of the smooth surface of the 
 tin and the exposure of the crystalline 
 structure of the underlying metal. The 
 beauty of the moire may be enhanced 
 by covering the surface with transparent 
 colored varnish. W.] 
 
 Black Bronze for Brass (R.Wagner). 
 Brush the brass with a diluted solution 
 of nitrate of mercury and then several 
 times with a solution of liver of sulphur. 
 
 Walker's Chemical Bronze. Boil 1 
 ounce of ammonium carbonate and a 
 like quantity of blue vitriol in li pints 
 of vinegar until the latter is nearly 
 evaporated. Then add li pints of vin- 
 egar in which has been dissolved i 
 drachm of oxalic acid and a like quan- 
 tity of sal-ammoniac. Place the mix- 
 ture over the fire until it commences to 
 boil, then allow it to cool, filter, and 
 put by in well-closed bottles. 
 
 If a medal, etc., is to be bronzed, it 
 is first thoroughly cleansed, then heated, 
 and the liquid applied by means of a 
 badger's hair brush. In a short time 
 boiling water is poured over the medal, 
 and, when dry, it is rubbed with a cot- 
 ton rag dipped in oil and then with dry 
 cotton. 
 
 Bine Bronze. Prepare a sand bath 
 as large as the article to be bronzed. 
 Cleanse the metal from all grease by 
 dipping in boiling potash lye, and treat 
 it with white wine vinegar. Wipe and 
 dry the surface thoroughly and rub it 
 with a linen rag moistened with hydro- 
 chloric acid. Allow the coating to 
 dry for a quarter of an hour and then 
 heat the article on the sand bath until 
 it has assumed the desired color, when 
 it should be removed. 
 
 Brown Bronze. Observe the same 
 process as in the foregoing. The blue 
 bronze is finally rubbed over with a 
 linen rag saturated with olive oil, which 
 will change the blue color into brown. 
 
 Gold Bronze of Great Lustre on 
 Iron. Dissolve 3 ounces of finely- 
 powdered shellac in If pints of spirit 
 of wine. Filter the varnish through 
 linen and rub a sufficient quantity of 
 Dutch gold with the filtrate to give a 
 lustrous color to it. 
 
 The iron, previously polished and 
 heated, is brushed over with vinegar 
 and the color applied with a brush. 
 When dry the article may be coated 
 with copal lacquer to which some am- 
 ber lacquer has been added. 
 
 Steel-blue on Brass. Dissolve 1 
 drachms of antimony sulphide and 2 
 ounces of calcined soda in f pint of 
 water. Add 2J drachms of kermes, 
 filter, and mix this solution with an- 
 other of 2f drachms of tartar, 5i 
 drachms of sodium hyposulphite, and 
 S pint of water. Polished sheet brass 
 placed in the warm mixture assumes a 
 beautiful steel-blue. 
 
 Black on Brass. Dissolve, with con- 
 stant stirring, 1 ounce of copper carbon- 
 ate in 8J fluid ounces of spirit of sal- 
 ammoniac and add 1 pint of water to 
 the solution. Suspend the articles by 
 brass or copper wires in the solution for 
 a short time. It is recommended not 
 to polish the articles with very fine 
 emery paper, as the coating adheres 
 much better if coarser paper has been 
 used. The coating is very durable in 
 the open air. 
 
 Red Copper-bronze on WJiite Sheet 
 Tin and Tinned Articles. Dissolve 9 
 drachms of copper sulphate in rain 
 water until this is saturated ; then add 
 40 to 80 drops of sulphuric acid and 
 brush the tin, previously cleansed with 
 onion juice, with the fluid. When dry 
 rub the article with chalk and rinse 
 with water. 
 
 To Give Copper a Durable Lustre. 
 Place the copper articles in a boiling 
 solution of tartar and water for 15 min- 
 utes. Remove, rinse off with cold water, 
 and dry. 
 
 New Method of Coloring Metals. 
 Metals may be colored quickly and 
 cheaply by forming on their surface a 
 coating of a thin film of a sulphide. 
 
BRONZING AND COLORING OF METALS. 
 
 47 
 
 By an immersion of 5 minutes brass ar- 
 ticles may be coated with colors varying 
 from gold to copper-red, then to car- 
 mine, dark red, and from light blue 
 to a blue-white, and at last a red- 
 dish-white, according to the thick- 
 ness of the coat, which depends on the 
 length of time the metal remains in the 
 solution "used. The colors possess a 
 very good lustre, and if the articles to 
 be colored have been previously well 
 cleansed by means of acids and alkalies, 
 they adhere so firmly that they may be 
 operated upon by the burnisher. To 
 prepare the solutions dissolve li ounces 
 of sodium hyposulphite in 1 pint of 
 water and H ounces of acetate of lead 
 previously dissolved in 1 pint of water. 
 When this clear solution is heated to 
 about 190 to 200 F. it decomposes 
 slowly and precipitates sulphide of lead 
 in brown flakes. If metal is present, a 
 part of the sulphide of lead is deposited 
 thereon, and, according to the thick- 
 ness of the deposit, the above colors are 
 produced. To produce an even color- 
 ing the article must be evenly heated. 
 
 Iron treated with this solution takes a 
 steel-blue color, zinc a brown color. 
 In the case of copper objects the first 
 gold color does not appear. 
 
 If, instead of the acetate of lead, an 
 equal weight of sulphuric acid is added 
 to the sodium hyposulphite, and the 
 process carried on as before, the brass 
 becomes coated, first, with a very beau- 
 tiful red, which is followed by a green, 
 and changes finally to a splendid 
 brown, with green and red iridescence. 
 This last is a very durable coating and 
 may be especially recommended. 
 
 [It will be found very difficult to ob- 
 tain by this process the'precise shade of 
 color desired, unless the operator has 
 had much experience in its use. The 
 thorough cleansing of the articles from 
 grease by immersion in boiling potash 
 lye and rinsing is absolutely necessary 
 to success. W.] 
 
 Graham's Bronzing Liquids. These 
 are used by simple immersions and 
 have a wide range of application, as 
 will appear from the three following 
 tables : 
 
 I. FOR BRASS (BY SIMPLE IMMERSION). 
 
 
 j 
 
 ) of Iron. 
 
 I'UO. 
 
 .,0 ,,puoj 
 
 of Copper. 
 
 phide of 
 ?enic. 
 
 c 
 .= - 
 
 u 
 
 i solution. 
 
 II 
 
 vanidc of 
 11 soliilion. 
 
 "o 
 
 11 
 
 F-| 
 
 Iphito of 
 
 .da. 
 
 c Acid. 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 !* 
 
 I 
 
 r 
 
 "3 
 
 l< 
 
 I* 
 
 aH 
 
 1 
 
 II 
 
 || 
 
 
 
 "^pH 
 
 1" 
 
 ^ 
 
 1 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 
 
 
 
 OH 
 
 ^ 
 
 H 
 
 1 
 
 | 
 
 
 
 s 
 
 >> 
 
 
 
 
 
 Xo. 
 
 
 
 
 'ft 
 
 
 
 H 
 
 
 0U 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 pt. 
 
 dr. 
 
 dr. 
 
 oz. 
 
 OZ. 
 
 dr. 
 
 dr. 
 
 oz. 
 
 pt. 
 
 dr. 
 
 dr. 
 
 dr. 
 
 OZ. 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 to black. 
 
 ? 
 
 1 
 
 
 C 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Brown and every shade 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 to black. 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 16 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 to red. 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 to red. 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 Bro w n i sh -red . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Yellow to red. 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 Slate 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 20* 
 
 
 
 Blue 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Black. 
 
 [*Liquid No. 6 must be boiled and cooled. No. 13 must be used at 180 F. or over. No. 6 is 
 slow in action, sometimes taking an hour to give good results. The action of the others is 
 usually immediate. W.] 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 II. FOR COPPER (TJY SIMPLE IMMERSION). 
 
 
 
 c" 
 
 | 
 
 
 
 'S 
 
 
 'S 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 
 
 s 
 
 a A 
 
 * V 
 
 
 g 
 
 
 |g 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 X 
 
 "o 
 
 0> 8 
 IS 
 
 3 
 ^ 
 
 < 
 
 R 
 
 1 
 
 M 
 
 %4 
 
 <3 
 _o 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 d 
 
 *S*3 
 IS 
 
 QQ 
 
 0) 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 II 
 
 "3 
 
 I, 
 
 S 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 No. 
 
 
 
 OB 
 
 
 
 s 
 
 
 CO 
 
 
 
 
 
 pt. 
 
 dr. 
 
 OZ. 
 
 dr. 
 
 dr. 
 
 dr. 
 
 oz. 
 
 dr. 
 
 02. 
 
 dr. 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Brown, and every shade to black. 
 
 16 
 
 i 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Dark-brown drab 
 
 17 
 
 i 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 Dark -brown drab. 
 
 18 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 Bright red. 
 
 19 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 Red, and every shade to black. 
 
 20 
 
 i 
 
 . . 
 
 . . 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 Steel-gray (at 180 F.) 
 
 III. FOR ZINC (AS ABOVE). 
 
 
 
 CJ 
 
 s 
 
 i 
 
 g 
 
 o 
 
 
 fc 
 
 | 
 
 | 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 g 
 
 'S 
 
 1" 
 
 
 3 
 
 . 
 
 |d 
 
 "o 
 
 
 
 S 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 2 
 
 s 
 
 "3 
 
 s 
 
 J 
 
 11 
 
 S 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 "o 
 
 5 
 
 Jj 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 II 
 
 e., 
 
 S 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 P 
 
 A 
 
 S 
 
 3 
 
 S 
 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 No. 
 
 
 
 A 
 
 O2 
 
 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 O 
 
 
 
 
 pt. 
 
 dr. 
 
 dr. 
 
 dr. 
 
 dr. 
 
 oz. 
 
 oz. 
 
 dr. 
 
 dr. 
 
 
 
 
 21 
 
 I 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Black. 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Black 
 
 23 
 
 T 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 Dai k gray 
 
 ?4 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 * 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 85 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2(5 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 27 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 * 
 
 
 lied (buil) 
 
 ?8 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 9q 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 
 
 g 
 
 
 
 
 30 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 * 
 
 I'm pie (boil). 
 
 * Made to the consistency of cream. (W.) 
 
 Dead-black on Brass Instruments. 
 Place about a thimbleful of lampblack 
 on a smooth surface of glass or porce- 
 lain, drop 4 or 5 drops of gold size on it, 
 and thoroughly incorporate the same 
 with a spatula. It should form a stiff 
 paste. Use as little of the size as pos- 
 sible, as an excess will give the coating 
 a glossy, instead of the desired dead fin- 
 ish. Add about double the volume of 
 turpentine; mix with a camel's hair 
 brush, and apply to the surface to be 
 coated, (W.) 
 
 Substitute for Gum Arabic in Manu- 
 facturing Bronze, Colors. The coarsely- 
 powdered metallic dust used in manu- 
 
 facturing bronze colors was formerly 
 rubbed fine with a concentrated solu- 
 tion of gum Arabic. By using a con- 
 centrated aqueous solution of 5 parts of 
 dextrine and 1 of alum, instead of solu- 
 tion of gum, a f;;r more beautiful and 
 cheaper article is ' btained. 
 
 Preservation of Bronze Monuments. 
 The unsightly, dark coating with which 
 most new monuments of bronze become 
 covered, giving them the appearance 
 of cast iron, does not consist, as has been 
 frequently assumed, of sulphide of cop- 
 per, but of a mixture of soot and at- 
 mospheric dust with the oxides of the 
 bronze metals. It is impossible to re- 
 
BUILDING MATERIALS, ETC. 
 
 49 
 
 move this coating by mechanical means, 
 or by diluted sulphuric acid, but it can 
 be done very quickly and efficaciously 
 by washing the surface with a con- 
 centrated solution of carbonate of am- 
 monium. By this means a layer of 
 patina is formed, which protects the sur- 
 face of the monument against a renewal 
 of the formation of the black coating. 
 But as this operation requires skilled 
 and experienced workmen, Magnus has 
 devised the following treatment for at- 
 taining the same object. The surface 
 of the monument is brushed over, at 
 intervals of a few weeks, with a mixture 
 of 20 parts of acetic acid in 100 of neat's- 
 foot oil. The acetate and oleate of cop- 
 per produced thereby form a thin green 
 layer, which prevents an accumulation 
 of dirt and dust, and also causes the for- 
 mation of a patina. 
 
 BUILDING MATERIALS, ARTIFICIAL 
 BUILDING STONE, MORTARS, ETC. 
 
 Various Formulce for Artificial Stone. 
 
 Artificial Building Stone. No. 1. 
 Mix 100 parts of hydraulic lime, which 
 has fallen to a powder, with water to 
 form a paste. To this add 250 parts 
 of gravel and 50 of coal ashes, or 
 lixiviated wood ashes. The mass is 
 then thoroughly mixed, and a sufficient 
 quantity of water added to make the 
 volume of the mass equal to 500 parts. 
 It is then poured into moulds made of 
 pine boards, where it is allowed to re- 
 main until set. 
 
 No. 2. One hundred and twenty -five 
 parts of hydraulic lime, which has fall- 
 en to a powder, are mixed with a suf- 
 ficient quantity of water to form a paste. 
 To this are added 250 parts of ground 
 oyster shells and 150 of ground peat 
 ashes, and a sufficient quantity of water 
 to make the bulk of the mass equal to 
 500 parts. It is then poured into moulds 
 as above and dried. 
 
 Artificial Building Stone, Prepared 
 with Cork. A very light building stone 
 which does not absorb moisture, and 
 does not rot, is prepared according to 
 the following process: 
 
 Comminuted cork, or cork waste, is 
 mixed with cement, sand, clay, lime, 
 and solution of water-glass, by adding 
 
 sufficient water to form a plastic mass, 
 which is pressed in moulds and dried 
 in the air. 
 
 The most advantageous plan is to 
 combine the comminuted cork with a- 
 mixture of clay, lime, solution of water- 
 glass, and a small quantity of hair. 
 
 The addition of clay is necessary to 
 prevent the calcium carbonate whicf. 
 is formed from becoming detached from 
 the surface of the comminuted cork 
 wood. The water glass is added in or- 
 der to form calcium silicate, which 
 contributes to the solidity of the stone. 
 The hair is added to keep the forineo. 
 stones together while drying. 
 
 Artificial Stone from, Quartz Sand 
 and Plumbic Oxide. Ground quartz 
 sand is mixed with 2 to 10 per cent, of 
 finely-ground plumbic oxide. The 
 harder the stones are to be the more 
 plumbic oxide must be used. The mix- 
 ture is moistened with water-glass, 
 again thoroughly mixed, and then 
 pressed firmly into moulds. The re- 
 sulting stone is dried and then burned. 
 
 E. Schajf'er's Artificial Stone (Eliza- 
 beth, N. J.). A mixture of 1 part of 
 cement and 3 of sand is made into a 
 dough with diluted sulphuric acid (100 
 parts of water to 2 of the acid) and sub- 
 jected to a strong pressure. The stones 
 are then dried in the air for 2 days, 
 when they are again placed for 12 
 hours in diluted sulphuric acid (100 
 parts of water to 3 of acid), and finally 
 dried. 
 
 E. Westermeyer's Artificial Stone 
 (Chicago). Two parts of Portland ce- 
 ment, 1 of sand, and 1 of cinders are 
 mixed together dry and then moistened 
 with an aqueous solution of sulphate of 
 iron. The resulting mortar is pressed 
 in moulds, dried for 2 weeks in a warm 
 place, then placed for 24 hours in 
 water, and finally dried for 4 weeks. 
 
 F. Coignet's (Paris). Ten parts of 
 unslaked lime are carefully ground 
 with 3 to 4 parts of water and then 
 mixed with 40 to 60 parts of dry sand 
 and 2i to 10 parts of hydraulic cement. 
 The mixture is again ground and 
 pressed into moulds. 
 
 A. Quesnot's (Bloomington, III.). 
 Dissolve 1 part of alum in 15 parts 
 of water, and add 2 parts of hydraulic 
 lime, 10 of sand, and 1 of cement to the 
 required consistency ; press into moulds 
 
50 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 and allow to remain 24 hours. The 
 blocks are fit for use in 14 days, but 
 only become thoroughly hard after 
 longer drying. 
 
 J. Skellinger, of New York, mixes 4 
 parts of -coarse sand, 1 of cement, with 
 gravel, pebbles, etc., in lime-water to a 
 paste, which is pressed in moulds and 
 the surface covered with a composition 
 of 2 parts of fine sand, 1 of cement, and 
 1 of dry metallic coloring matter. If 
 the surface of the stone is to be orna- 
 mented the design is laid upon the bot- 
 tom of the mould, and on the top of 
 this is placed the layer of the last-men- 
 tioned mixture. When the stone is 
 nearly dry its surface is brushed over 
 with a thin solution of water-glass. 
 Sidewalks of such flags have been laid 
 in several streets of New York, and 
 found to do excellent service. 
 
 J. Ordway, of Jamaica Plains, N. Y. 
 Thirty parts of quartz sand and 1 of 
 plumbic oxide are mixed to a dough 
 with 10 of water-glass. Suitable color- 
 ing substances, if necessary, are added 
 to the mass, which is then pressed into 
 moulds and exposed for 2 hours to a 
 red heat. 
 
 S. Sorel, of Paris. Natural carbonate 
 of magnesia is heated in a furnace to a 
 red heat for 24 hours; it is then 
 powdered, mixed with sand, gravel, 
 marble waste, etc., or with cotton, 
 wool, and other fibrous substances, in 
 the proportion of i to 20 and more to 1, 
 according to the results to be obtained. 
 The mass is moistened with solution 
 of chloride of magnesium, pressed into 
 moulds, or worked and rolled into 
 slabs. 
 
 Adolph Ott, New York. A mixture of 
 hydraulic cement with lime, soluble 
 siliceous earth, or water-glass is stirred 
 into a stiff dough with a mixture of 
 hydraulic cement and heated dolomite. 
 The mass is pressed into moulds and 
 dried without the use of heat. The 
 dolomite should only be heated to 
 about 750 F., to prevent the carbonate 
 of lime from losing its carbonic acid, 
 and then powdered. Stones manufact- 
 ured in this manner resemble the 
 Portland stones, and, it is claimed, are 
 harder. 
 
 "Victoria" Stone (Highton's Pro- 
 cess). The refuse of the granite quarries 
 is broken up into pieces of suitable size, 
 
 and 4 parts of the fragments thus ob- 
 tained are mixed with 1 part of Portland 
 cement, with the addition of sufficient 
 water to bring the mass to the consist- 
 ency of dough. The mass is run into 
 moulds, in which it is allowed to re- 
 main for several days, or until it has 
 set solid. The blocks are then im- 
 mersed in a solution of silicate of 
 soda. (W.) 
 
 Ransome's Artificial Stone. Clean 
 and dry sand and other suitable sili- 
 ceous and earthy ingredients are thor- 
 oughly incorporated in a mixing mill 
 with silicate of soda. The resulting 
 pasty mass is then pressed into moulds 
 of any required pattern or size, and when 
 set sufficiently, immersed in a solution 
 of chloride of calcium. In the case of 
 large pieces the saturation with chloride 
 of calcium is facilitated by the use 
 of the air-pump. The resulting re- 
 action is the formation, by double 
 decomposition of the ingredients, of 
 an insoluble calcium silicate and of 
 sodium chloride. The first named 
 forms a solid and indurate binding 
 material for the stone, and the sodium 
 chloride is removed by a subsequent 
 thorough washing with water. This 
 last operation is important, since if 
 not completely removed from the 
 stone it will make its appearance sub- 
 sequently in the form of a white efflor- 
 escence on its surface. (W.) 
 
 Apcenite (Ransome's Patent). To 
 avoid the difficulty encountered in 
 washing out the soluble sodium chloride 
 in the process just described, Mr. Ran- 
 some devised a process whereby the 
 insoluble calcium silicate should be 
 formed without the simultaneous pro- 
 duction of a soluble salt thus dispens- 
 ing with the washing process. This he 
 accomplishes by incorporating with 
 the foregoing mixture a material capa- 
 ble of yielding silica in form suscepti- 
 ble of dissolving freely in the presence 
 of free alkali. Such a material is 
 found in the earth known variously as 
 infusorial earth, diatomaceous earth, 
 fossil meal, etc., and which is made up 
 largely of the siliceous coverings of 
 microscopic plants which are readily 
 soluble in caustic soda or potassa. 
 
 Mr. Ransome introduces some of this 
 earth into his mixture of lime, sand, 
 and silicate of soda solution. When 
 
BUILDING MATERIALS, ETC. 
 
 51 
 
 intimately mixed, the mass is intro- 
 duced into moulds and allowed to 
 harden gradually. Calcium silicate is 
 formed by the interaction of the in- 
 gredients present, and the mass gradu- 
 ally becomes indurated, forming a 
 compact stone, which improves in 
 strength and hardness as it ages. The 
 action of the siliceous earth introduced 
 is as follows: The free lime and 
 alumina of the mixture seize on the 
 silica of the sodium silicate, forming 
 calcium and aluminum silicate and free 
 soda. This last reacts promptly on 
 the silica of the infusorial earth to form 
 a fresh portion of sodium silicate, and 
 so on, the soda acting as the carrier of 
 silica to the lime, until it is all com- 
 bined. A portion of the soda appears 
 also to combine at each- operation, so 
 that this is gradually united with the 
 lime as a double silicate, leaving noth- 
 ing to be removed by washing. (W.) 
 
 Frear's Artificial Stone. A mixture 
 of Portland cement and sand is moist- 
 ened with a solution of shellac, then 
 reduced to the consistence of dough by 
 the addition of water, and formed by 
 pressure into moulds of any desired 
 shape. After a short time the mass 
 acquires considerable tenacity, and 
 may be removed from the moulds with- 
 out injury. The "Frear" stone was 
 at one time quite largely used in 
 Chicago and other cities of the West 
 and Northwest. (W.) 
 
 Building Stones, Pipes, etc. 
 
 Sand 4000 parts. 
 
 Limestone 528 " 
 
 Burned clay (brickdust) .... GO " 
 Water-glass 130 to 250 " 
 
 are mixed together. 
 
 Artificial Millstones. 
 Coarsely-broken quartz or flint . 4000 parts. 
 
 Chalk or limestone 500 " 
 
 Calcium phosphate 45 " 
 
 Ft-ldspar 60 " 
 
 Fluorspar 10 " 
 
 Water-glass 250 " 
 
 Grindstones. 
 
 Quartz sand or emery .... 235 parts. 
 
 Limestone 75 " 
 
 Calamine 30 " 
 
 Calcium phosphate ...'.. 30 " 
 
 Feldspar 4 " 
 
 Fluorspar 1 part. 
 
 Water-glass 75 parts. 
 
 are mixed and the mass treated in the 
 
 same manner as indicated for artificial 
 marble. 
 
 New Plastic Water-proof Grind- 
 stones. Melt 100 parts of caoutchouc 
 and add to this '25 parts of sulphur 
 mixed with 450 to 1050 parts of emery 
 or some other abrading substance. 
 Knead the mass thoroughly, press it 
 into moulds, and subject it first in the 
 moulds, and then after it has been 
 taken out, to a temperature of 572 F. 
 
 To Imitate Variegated Marble. Mix 
 hydraulic lime and ground marble, and 
 incorporate with the mixture a solu- 
 tion of alum and suitable coloring sub- 
 stances. Differently colored masses are 
 then mixed together and cut into slabs. 
 
 A. Garvey, of Memphis, Term., pre- 
 pares " lithomarlite " by adding to 3 
 gallons of water, pint of glue water, 
 and 4V ounces of powdered borax, a suf- 
 ficient quantity of plaster of Paris to 
 form a dough. An imitation of marble 
 is produced by stirring the coloring 
 substances into the mass. 
 
 Artificial Marble. The following 
 mixtures have been recommended for 
 making artificial marble. Grind and 
 thoroughly mix : 
 
 PARTS. 
 
 Comminuted stone 280 280 
 
 Limestone or chalk 140 140 
 
 Burned calamine 5 6 
 
 Calcined feldspar 3 3 
 
 Fluorspar 2 1.5 
 
 Calcium phosphate 2 
 
 Water-glass 40 40 
 
 On the addition of the water-glass 
 the ingredients are quickly mixed and 
 thereupon pressed into moulds. The 
 finished pieces are dried at a tempera- 
 ture gradually rising to 125 F. 
 
 Cement from Blast-furnace Slag. 
 Mr. Ransome has lately wrought out 
 an important invention by which he is 
 enabled to convert blast-furnace slag 
 into a hydraulic cement having even 
 greater strength than Portland, and be- 
 sides being much lighter in color. 
 
 In this process granulated slag is 
 mixed and ground with chalk or lime, 
 or, in his latest practice, with the 
 spent lime of the gas works. The 
 resulting mixture is then calcined and 
 again ground. The resulting cement is 
 found to possess high qualities both as 
 regards quick setting and strength. 
 
 When spent gas lime is used, Mr, 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Rz.asome gets rid of the sulphur with 
 which it is saturated by mixing a cer- 
 tain proportion of powdered coke with 
 the slag and lime, which, in the furnace, 
 reduces tiie sulphate of lime present to 
 sulphide, and passing a jet of steam 
 through the mass, by which the sulphur 
 is carried off as sulphuretted hydrogen, 
 leaving pure lime behind. He ^ias 
 also devised a revolving retort for the 
 calcination of his materials, by which 
 they are prevented from caking, and a 
 subsequent grinding rendered unneces- 
 sary. This cement exhibited con- 
 siderably greater strength than Port- 
 land. (W.) 
 
 Very Hard and Durable Cement, 
 The following mixtures give three 
 qualities of a very hard and durable 
 cement capable of resisting the action 
 of the weather. It is very suitable for 
 cementing fractures in marble or stone 
 statues, monuments, or ornamental 
 work which are exposed to atmospheric 
 influences : 
 
 PARTS. 
 
 I. II. III. 
 
 Portland cement 12 6 9 
 
 Chalk paste 6 12 6 
 
 Fine sand 6 6 6 
 
 Siliceous earth 1 1 1 
 
 The above ingredients are made into 
 a thick paste with soda water-glass. 
 No. II. gives the hardest cement. 
 
 To Manufacture Cement from Blast- 
 furnace Slag. 
 
 Blast-furnace slag 2 parts. 
 
 Lirne 5 " 
 
 Clay 2 " 
 
 are mixed, calcined, and ground. 
 
 To Prepare White Cement, which 
 hardens under water, stir 25 parts of 
 fossil meal (infusorial earth), free from 
 iron, and 75 of chalk, free from iron, 
 into a solution of 2.5 parts of potash 
 or soda, and form the mass into bricks, 
 which are dried, burned in a white 
 heat, and then ground. 
 
 To Prepare Artificial Cement. Schott- 
 ler's artificial cement consists of: 
 
 Plaster of Paris (best freshly ground) 
 
 6 parts by weight. 
 
 Brickdust 3 " 
 
 Finery cinders .... 4 " " 
 
 The substances are ground or 
 
 pounded fine, then sifted through a 
 wire sieve (so tine as not to allow mus- 
 tard seed to pass through), mixed with 
 water, and, shortly before the cement 
 is to be used, mixed thoroughly with 2 
 parts of sifted iron filings. The mix- 
 ture should be used as thin and soft as 
 possible in all other respects like 
 ordinary mortar. 
 
 To Harden Cement, Lime, and Sim- 
 ilar Materials. Solutions of sulphate 
 of zinc, sulphate of iron, or sulphate of 
 copper are used for this purpose. The 
 plastering of cement or lime mortar 
 may be brushed over with these solu- 
 tions or the mortar mixtures may be 
 stirred together with them. In the lat- 
 ter case the percentage of lime or cement 
 in the mortar can be considerably de- 
 creased. 
 
 Oil Cement Paint for Felt Hoofing. 
 Washed graphite ... 2 parts by weight. 
 
 Rod ochre 2 
 
 Cement 16 " " 
 
 Barium sulphate ... 16 " " 
 Plumbic oxide .... 6 " 
 
 are ground in an oil varnish prepared 
 in the following manner : One hundred 
 parts by weight of good linseed oil are 
 boiled for 8 hours in a copper boiler 
 with 5 per cent, of pyrolusite. Ten 
 parts by weight of flowers of sulphur 
 and 20 parts by weight of French pitch 
 are then dissolved in the mixture and 
 the mass filtered before it becomes cold. 
 Twenty -five pounds of oil cement color 
 and 1A gallons of linseed-oil varnish or 
 linseed oil for reducing the paint are 
 sufficient to give 2 coats to 1000 square 
 feet of roof surface. The first coat, 
 while still wet, is uniformly covered 
 with fine dry sand by means of a sieve. 
 The sanding should be done during the 
 progress of the painting, so that the 
 workman is not obliged to step into the 
 wet paint. The free sand is removed 
 with a broom before the second coat is 
 given, and it is best to apply this 8 days 
 after the first. The second coat need 
 not be sanded ; its purpose being to 
 combine with the first to an insoluble 
 mass hard as stone and to give to the 
 roof a neat, finished appearance. 
 
 Requisites for Good Mortar. To ob- 
 tain a good mortar as much depends on 
 the character of the ingredients and the 
 manner of mixing them as on the qual- 
 
BUILDING MATERIALS, ETC. 
 
 ity of the lime. It does not necessarily 
 follow that because a lime is good the 
 quality of the mortar will be good also. 
 The best lime ever burned would be 
 spoiled by the custom, common among 
 some builders, of mixing with it earth 
 and rubbish taken from the foundations 
 of intended buildings. The sand should 
 be hard, sharp, gritty, and, for purposes 
 of construction, not too fine ; it should 
 be free from all organic matter. Good 
 sand for mortar may be rubbed between 
 the hands without soiling them. The 
 water should also be free from organic 
 matter, and, on this account, should 
 never be taken from stagnant ponds. 
 The presence of salt in sand and water 
 is not found to impair the ultimate 
 strength of most mortars ; nevertheless 
 it causes an efflorescence of white, frothy 
 blotches on the face of the structure. 
 It also renders the mortar liable to re- 
 tain moisture, and for these reasons 
 should never be present in mortar in- 
 tended for architectural purposes, al- 
 though for dock and sea walls it may 
 generally be used with advantage and 
 economy. 
 
 Sand is used to increase the resistance 
 of mortar to crushing, to lessen the 
 amount of shrinking, and to reduce the 
 bulk of the more costly material, lime. 
 Water is the agent by which a combi- 
 nation is effected, and, as sand does not 
 increase in volume by moisture, it neces- 
 sarily follows that no more of the dilut- 
 ing element should be employed than 
 is absolutely necessary to fill the inter- 
 stices between the sand and render the 
 whole into a paste convenient for use, 
 and the greater strictness with which 
 this is adhered to the more compact 
 and durable will be the mortar. 
 
 Hydraulic Mortar from Lime and 
 Alum Shale. Alum shale, which is 
 very abundant and cheap in some local- 
 ities, mixed with lime, gives to the latter 
 all the properties of hydraulic mortar. 
 It dries quickly, becomes very hard and 
 impermeable. To prepare it add J to i 
 part of alum shale to the lime. 
 
 To Prepare Bitumen Mortar. One 
 part of bitumen, gained as a by-prod- 
 uct in the manufacture of parafiine 
 oil and mineral oil, and thoroughly 
 cleansed by means of acids and alkalies, 
 is mixed with 2 to 6 parts of lime mor- 
 tar. The latter is prepared from 1 
 
 part of good slaked lime and 2 parts 
 of sharp quartz sand. After it is 
 mixed and has become hard it is 
 brought into the bitumen, which has 
 been previously melted and heated to 
 140 F. 
 
 To Prepare Hydraulic Mortar. Burn- 
 ed lime is changed into dry calcium 
 hydrate as fine as dust by moistening it 
 with water and allowing it to decompose. 
 It is then mixed with infusorial earth, 
 which has al.so been reduced to an im- 
 palpable powder by washing, drying, 
 gentle heating, and pulverizing the 
 Jumps which may have been formed. 
 For mortar to be used for work under 
 water, equal parts by weight of the 
 two powders are mixed together ; while 
 for work not so much exposed to the 
 action of water, 1 part by weight of 
 infusorial earth to 2 parts by weight of 
 calcium hydrate is sufficient. 
 
 Water-proof Mortar. The lime is 
 slaked with a solution of green vitriol 
 instead of ordinary water. The neces- 
 sary quantity of green vitriol is dis- 
 solved in wa'rm water, the lime slaked 
 in the usual manner, and then mixed 
 with fine quartz sand. 
 
 To Prepare Clay Plaster. Stir 
 gradually 1 part of rye flour into 26 
 parts of water. Boil and the mixture 
 will give 24 parts of paste. Take 1 
 part of this to 8 parts of dry clay, and 
 mix with as much water as necessary 
 to apply it. 
 
 Plaster for Damp Walls. Two coats 
 of ordinary lime mortar are applied to 
 the wall. The last coat is smoothed 
 with a steel float. Upon this is applied 
 a third coat of very fat lime, and this is 
 glazed with pure lime compounded 
 with some alumina and ?V part of alum. 
 
 Treatment of Asphaltum for Paving 
 Purposes. The asphaltum should not 
 be softened by heat, but, in a powdered 
 state, partly dissolved by impregnating 
 it with bisulphide of carbon, naphtha, 
 or benzine. 
 
 Marbleizing Sandstone. By impreg- 
 nating sandstone with a solution of 
 sulphate of alumina and next with one 
 of water-glass, it acquires a marble-like 
 appearance and can be polished. It 
 resists the action of fire and atmospheric 
 influences and is especially adapted for 
 hydraulic works. By treating the im- 
 pregnated sandstone at a very high tern- 
 
54 
 
 TECHNO-CIIEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 perature it acquires a kind of vitrifica- 
 tion, to which any desired color can be 
 given. 
 
 To Make Sandstone and other Porous 
 Stones Tough and Impermeable. The 
 stones are dried at 350 F. and then 
 immersed for 8 hours in coal tar heated 
 to 350 F. Stones treated in this man- 
 ner become so tough that they can 
 scarcely be broken with a hammer. 
 Bricks become hard and impermeable 
 by allowing them to lie for 4 hours in 
 tar heated to 235 F. 
 
 To Repair Worn-down Sandstone 
 Steps. This can be very well accom- 
 plished with good cement mortar. The 
 steps are first thoroughly moistened 
 with water before applying the mortar, 
 consisting of 1 part of cement and 1 of 
 fine quartz sand. The cement and 
 sand must be mixed dry, some water 
 is then gradually added, while the mass 
 is constantly stirred, so that the result 
 will be as plastic a mortar as possible, 
 in which every grain of sand is en- 
 veloped in a coating of cement. 
 
 For repairing broken sandstone steps, 
 the fracture should first be cut as rag- 
 ged as possible and soaked with water. 
 Finely-sifted cement and sand should 
 be used, or, instead of the latter, finely- 
 powdered and washed sandstone as 
 near the color of the steps as possible. 
 The mortar is prepared from 1 part of 
 cement and 2 of sand. 
 
 Concrete Marble. Mix milk of lime 
 with finely-powdered marble or lime- 
 stone, or, what is still better, with 
 chalk, until the mixture acquires the 
 consistency of paste. A certain quan- 
 tity of coarsely-powdered limestone may 
 be added to the mixture to give it more 
 cohesion. The mortar should be ap- 
 plied at once, as it dries very quickly 
 and becomes hard. 
 
 To Make Wood A Imost Incombustible. 
 Well-seasoned wood is steeped for 24 
 hours in a solution of water-glass in 
 three times its volume of water. It is 
 then dried in the air for a few days, and 
 the soaking for 24 hours in the same 
 solution and drying repeated several 
 times. It is finally thoroughly dried 
 and given a coat of a mixture of 1 part 
 of fresh cement and 4 parts of the above 
 solution of water-glass. Not too much 
 of this last mixture must be prepared 
 at one time, as it would become solid 
 
 and therefore useless. The first coat is 
 allowed to dry for 24 hours. The wood 
 receives then a second but somewhat 
 thicker coat of cement and water-glass, 
 and, when dry, a final coat of ordinary 
 water-glass, which gives a smooth, glassy 
 appearance to it. Wood treated in the 
 above manner will not ignite even in a 
 strong fire, as has been proved by ex- 
 periments on a large scale. This treat- 
 ment protects it also against the attacks 
 of insects and rotting. 
 
 To Dry Damp Walls. The old plas- 
 ter is first removed from the walls and 
 the joints. Slabs consisting of: 
 
 Rosin 3 parts. 
 
 Tar 2 " 
 
 Asphaltum 5 " 
 
 Quartz sand 6 " 
 
 are then prepared. The smooth sur- 
 faces of these slabs are coated with a 
 lacquer consisting of: 
 
 Oil of turpentine 2 parts. 
 
 Shellac 1 part. 
 
 Spirit of wine 4 parts. 
 
 and then strewed with sharp sand, while 
 the rough surface of the plates is fast- 
 ened to the wall with a mortar consist- 
 ing of: 
 
 Sand 4 parts. 
 
 Hydraulic lime 2 " 
 
 Portland cement 1 part. 
 
 The joints are filled in with a putty, 
 consisting of: 
 
 Rosin 6 parts. 
 
 Asphaltum 1 part. 
 
 Powdered lime 2 parts. 
 
 They receive then a coat of the above- 
 mentioned varnish and are also strewn 
 with sharp sand. The wall is then 
 plastered. 
 
 Lyons Asphaltum. 
 
 Bitumen 15 parts by weight. 
 
 Coal cinders 35 
 
 Powdered coke .... 10 " " 
 
 Lime 130 
 
 Fine gravel 160 " " 
 
 The bitumen and coal cinders are 
 mixed in a boiler, heated, and skimmed 
 until the formation of froth has ceased. 
 The powdered coke and lime are then 
 intimately mixed and heated to 575 
 
COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 
 
 F. in order to dry them, when they are 
 mixed with the ingredients in the 
 boiler, and finally the gravel is added. 
 
 To Make Glass Roofs Water-tight. 
 It is very difficult to keep glass roofs 
 with iron frames water-tight, as the 
 iron contracts by cold and expands by 
 heat more than the glass. To remedy 
 this it is necessary to use an elastic 
 putty which will follow the variations 
 in the iron. This is prepared in the 
 following manner : Two parts of rosin 
 and 1 of tallow are melted together and 
 intimately mixed with some red lead. 
 This putty, while hot, is spread upon 
 both sides of strips of linen or cotton 
 cloth, and these, while the putty is still 
 warm, are pasted, one-half upon the 
 iron riles and the other upon the glass. 
 The strips should be about i inch wide. 
 
 To Preserve Wood. The following is 
 a new process to protect wood from 
 rotting : Boil in an iron boiler 4 to 8 
 parts of linseed oil with 50 parts of 
 rosin, 40 parts of pulverized chalk 
 (whiting), and 2000 to 3000 parts of 
 sharp white sand. When the paste is 
 thoroughly boiled add 1 part of cuprous 
 oxide and finally 1 part of sulphuric 
 acid. The mass is then thoroughly 
 stirred together and applied, while hot, 
 to the wood with a stiff brush. If the 
 mass is too thick it should be thinned 
 with linseed oil. 
 
 Bricks (Size and Weight}. Traut- 
 wine gives the usual size of bricks in 
 Eastern cities as 8i by 4 2 inches, equiva- 
 lent to 66 cubic inches, or 26. '2 bricks 
 to the cubic foot, or 707 to the cubic 
 yard. 
 
 The weight of a good common brick 
 of the above dimensions will average 
 about 4i pounds, or 118 pounds to the 
 cubic foot, or 3186 pounds (nearly H 
 tons) to the cubic yard. 
 
 A good pressed brick of the same size 
 will average about 5 pounds, or 131 
 pounds to the cubic foot, or 3537 pounds 
 (somewhat over H tons) to the cubic 
 yard. (W.) 
 
 Making Brick Masonry Impervious 
 to Water. Sylvester's process, used 
 with success on the Croton Reservoir in 
 Central Pai-k, consists in the successive 
 application to the walls of two washes, 
 one composed of Castile soap and water 
 and the other of alum and water. The 
 
 proportions are f of a pound of soap to 
 1 gallon of water, and i pound of alum 
 to 4 gallons of water. The walls should 
 be quite dry and clean and the temper- 
 ature of the air should not be below 
 50 F. The soap wash should be laid 
 on first : it should be laid on with a flat 
 brush and at a boiling heat. After 24 
 hours the wash will be dry and hard, 
 and the alum wash should be applied 
 at a temperature of 60 to 70 F. This 
 is allowed to remain for 24 hours, when 
 the whole operation is repeated until 
 the wall has become impervious to 
 water. The number of applications 
 required will depend on trie water 
 pressure to which the wall will be sub- 
 jected. In the case of the Croton 
 Reservoir above named 4 coatings were 
 found to render the reservoir free from 
 leakage under 40 feet head. (W.) 
 
 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 
 
 Cocoa and chocolate are prepared 
 from the cocoa bean. This is character- 
 ized by the presence of more than hal f 
 of its weight of a fatty substance, known 
 as cocoa butter, consisting of oleine and 
 stearine, and does not become rancid 
 like the natural fats generally. 
 
 The beans, carefully cleansed and 
 selected, partly by sifting, and partly 
 by picking out the injured and unripe 
 ones, are alLowed to ferment in heaps 
 for a short time (which improves their 
 flavor), and then roasted like coffee. 
 The drums used for this purpose should 
 be of such a size that about 450 pounds 
 of the seeds will fill them about full. 
 Inside of the drum are 4 blades, the 
 object of which is to stir and mix the 
 seeds while roasting. The beans should 
 be roasted not quite as much as coffee ; 
 they must not have an empyreumatic 
 odor, but a peculiar, agreeable aroma. 
 The roasted beans having been crushed 
 and winnowed, are ground in warm 
 mills, in which the fatty matter melts 
 and unites with the ground beans to a 
 paste. The mill for grinding (Fig. 4) 
 consists of 3 large granite rollers, A, B, 
 C, the surfaces of which must be smooth. 
 The centre roller B runs in brasses, 
 while A and C rest upon the blocks r, 
 r, and ?', r'. Each of these can be uni- 
 
TECIINO-CIIEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 formly pushed forward upon the iron 
 rails x x by the action of an endless 
 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 screw v, t/, and thus are brought nearer 
 to, or removed from, the centre roller 
 B. The rollers are geared to turn at 
 different speeds. The centre roller B 
 generally makes 2 revolutions, while 
 C makes 6, and A 1. The effect of this 
 is that every roller grinds upon the sur- 
 face lying behind it, and that the cocoa 
 between the first pair is transferred 
 from one roller to the other. The paste 
 Is scraped from the roller C by a blade 
 of hardened steel, and conveyed into a 
 tin mould placed under the machine. 
 To keep the fatty matter in a melted 
 state, a copper box, into which steam is 
 introduced, is placed under the rollers. 
 When the machine has worked for some 
 time, sufficient heat is generated by fric- 
 tion to allow of the steam being shut 
 off. 
 
 For the manufacture of chocolate 3 
 machines are required : The mixing 
 boiler, roller, and moulding tables. 
 The mixing boiler consists of a round 
 trough of granite provided with a mix- 
 ing apparatus. The cocoa is intimately 
 mixed with a corresponding quantity 
 of sugar and other ingredients, the warm, 
 soft mixture divided into lumps of a 
 determined weight, and placed in tin 
 moulds upon a shaking table. The 
 soft mass, by this motion, spreads out 
 uniformly in the moulds, and the air 
 bubbles enclosed in it escape. The 
 
 chocolate in cooling off contracts and 
 detaches itself from the sides of the 
 mould. Good chocolate forms a brown 
 homogeneous mass of great density. 
 The surface of the cake should have a 
 dull lustre, and, when broken, the frac- 
 ture, in cool weather, must be sharp 
 and show no lustrous or white gran- 
 ules. 
 
 Starch, either 2 to 3 per cent, of arrow- 
 root or other starch, or 4 to 6 per cent, 
 of kiln-dried wheat or barley flour is 
 added to almost every kind of chocolate. 
 (This adulterant is frequently added in 
 much larger proportion. W.) Va- 
 nilla, spices, and other flavoring sub- 
 stances are also added. 
 
 We give in the following a number 
 of receipts for manufacturing dif- 
 ferent varieties and qualities of choco- 
 late: 
 
 Ordinary Chocolate. I. Mix 2 pounds 
 each of roasted and ground cocoa 
 and pulverized sugar, and i ounce of 
 powdered cinnamon. 
 
 II. Mix 6i pounds of roasted and 
 ground cocoa, a like quantity of sugar, 
 1 ounce of powdered cinnamon, a like 
 quantity of rice roasted light brown, i 
 ounce of cardamons, and i ounce of 
 cubebs. 
 
 Spiced Chocolate. Twelve hundred 
 and fifty parts of roasted cocoa and a 
 like quantity of sugar. 
 
 The cocoa is ground very fine, at a 
 moderate heat, until it forms a thin 
 paste. It is then mixed with the sugar 
 and the following ingredients, all finely 
 powdered : 
 
 Fine cinnamon 18 parts, 
 
 Cloves 9 ' 
 
 Cardamon 4 ' 
 
 The mass is then pressed in moulds. 
 
 Other Receipts for Spiced Chocolate. 
 PARTS. 
 
 I. 
 
 2000 
 1750 
 50 
 
 Roasted cocoa . 
 Sugar ..... 
 Ceylon cinnamon 
 
 Cloves 1; 
 
 Vanilla ground with 
 
 sugar 50 
 
 Cardamon .... 1 
 
 Mace 
 
 Coriander .... 
 Sugar ground with 
 Oil of lemon .... 
 
 II. 
 
 5000 
 50<X) 
 
 '3* 
 
 8 
 133 
 
 III. 
 
 5000 
 6000 
 200 
 66^ 
 
COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 
 
 Fine Spanish Spiced Chocolate. 
 
 Cocoa 1500 parts. 
 
 Fine white sugar . . . 
 Ground vanilla .... 
 
 Cloves 
 
 Cardamon 
 
 Cinnamon , 
 
 Mace 
 
 1500 
 10} 
 MJ 
 
 33 
 50 
 16 
 
 Cedratoil 30 drops 
 
 Vienna Chocolate. Mix : 
 
 PARTS. 
 
 Cocoa mass . 
 
 I. II. 
 
 5000 loi 
 
 Powdered sugar 
 
 5000 750 
 
 Powdered cinnamon . . 
 
 Powdered chives 
 
 . . 200 
 100 
 
 Powdered cardamon . 
 Peruvian balsam ground 
 sugar 
 
 . . 25 
 with 
 25 
 
 Vanilla 
 Ambergris 
 
 . . 25 
 
 Paris Chocolate. 
 Cocoa mass 1000 parts. 
 Sugar . . 1000 " 
 Vanilla . 33 " 
 Ambergris 1 part. 
 Peruvian bal 
 sam . . . 
 Fine cinna- 
 mon . . . 
 
 Milan Chocolate. 
 
 1500 parts. 
 1500 
 16 
 
 33 " 
 
 Hygienic Chocolate. This consists 
 either of cocoa formed into cakes, or 
 equal quantities of cocoa and white 
 sugar, or 1 part cocoa to V, parts sugar, 
 but contains no spices whatever. 
 
 Iceland Moss Chocolate consists of: 
 
 Cocoa 250 parts. 
 
 Sugar 250 " 
 
 Finely-powdered Iceland moss . . 125 " 
 Finely-powdered salep .... 10 " 
 
 Other Receipts for Iceland Moss Choc- 
 olate. One quart of hot water in which 
 & ounce of potash has been dissolved is 
 poured over 5| ounces of selected Ice- 
 land moss. This is allowed to stand 
 quietly for 1 hour; the fluid is then 
 strained off through a cloth, the moss 
 squeezed out with the hands, and thor- 
 oughly washed 3 or 4 times with fresh 
 water. It is again squeezed, dried in a 
 warm place, powdered, and sifted. 
 Four and three-quarter ounces of this 
 powder are mixed with i ounce of pow- 
 dered salep root and H pounds of pow- 
 dered sugar. One and one-half pounds 
 of cocoa mass are added and the whole 
 thoroughly mixed. 
 
 Doliar's Moss Chocolate. 
 Roasted and finely-ground cocoa . 1 pound. 
 Finely-powdered white sugar . . 13^ ounces. 
 Dried and finely-powdered moss . % ounce. 
 Powdered salep root , JZ " 
 
 Chocolate with Meat Extract. One- 
 half ounce of meat extract is dissolved 
 in the same quantity of lukewarm dis- 
 tilled water and mixed, while still 
 warm, with 8} ounces of cocoa. The 
 ingredients must be very intimately 
 mixed. The mass is then formed into 
 cakes like ordinary chocolate. 
 
 Iron Chocolate. Mix : 
 
 Chocolate 1000 parts. 
 
 Cloves 5 " 
 
 Cardamon 2% " 
 
 Ethereal oil of cinnamon ... 1 part. 
 
 Peruvian balsam 2 pints. 
 
 Iron in an impalpable powder .10 " 
 
 Chocolate with Carbonate of Iron. 
 Mix: 
 
 Chocolate 1000 parts. 
 
 Carbonate of iron 10 " 
 
 Vanilla 4 " 
 
 Chocolate Lozenges with Carbonate 
 of Iron. Five ounces of pure crystal- 
 lized ferrous sulphate, or, what is still 
 better, freshly precipitated with alco- 
 hol, are dried at a .moderate heat until 
 the residue weighs 4i ounces. Add to 
 this 4i ounces of dried and powdered 
 sodium bicarbonate and 4 ounces of 
 powdered sugar. Four ounces of co- 
 coa, melted at a moderate tempera- 
 ture, are then gradually incorporated 
 with the mixture and 60 lozenges 
 formed from the resulting mass. 
 
 Racahout des Arabes. Mix : 
 
 PARTS. 
 
 I. 
 
 500 
 500 
 125 
 
 II. 
 
 500 
 
 250 
 250 
 125 
 
 Fine oatmeal .... 
 Powdered chocolate . . 
 Powdered vanilla sugar . 
 Powdered starch . . . 
 Fine wheat flour . . . 
 Powdered sugar . . . 
 Powdered cinnamon . 
 
 Dr. Koeben's Nourishing and 
 
 Healing Powder. 
 I. II. 
 
 Parts. Parts. 
 
 White Sugar. . 65 Chocolate . . 60 
 Prepared cocoa . 30 Sugar ... 35 
 Finest flour . . 25 Finest flour . 25 
 Roasted acorns . 10 Roasted acorns 10 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Vakaka Indorum. This consists of: 
 
 Roasted cocoa 117 parts. 
 
 Sugar 320 
 
 Cinnamon 14 " 
 
 Vanilla 3.5 " 
 
 Gray ambergris & part. 
 
 Musk J* 
 
 Palamaud or Palmgr&ne, or A llataim 
 du Harem. This consists of: 
 
 Roasted cocoa 8 parts. 
 
 Finest starch 32 " 
 
 Bice 32 " 
 
 Powdered red sandal wood ... 1 part. 
 
 According to other formulae ground 
 acorns are substituted for starch. 
 
 White Chocolate. The following 
 mixture is kneaded into a dough by 
 adding a sufficient quantity of boiling 
 water. The resulting paste is then 
 formed into small cakes or lozenges : 
 
 Wh jte sugar S]4 pounds. 
 
 Powdered rice ........ Ug " 
 
 Arrowroot 5% ounces. 
 
 Tincture of vanilla b% drachms. 
 
 Cocoa butter 5% ounces. 
 
 Gum Arabic . . 2 3 2 " 
 
 CELLULOID, CAOUTCHOUC, GUTTA- 
 PERCHA, AND SIMILAR COMPOSI- 
 TIONS. 
 
 Preparation of Celluloid. Any sub- 
 jitance containing cellulose, or vegetable 
 fibre free from incrusting components, 
 as unsized paper, cotton, wool, linen, 
 hemp, white rags cut fine and perfectly 
 clean, certain varieties of white wood, 
 may be used as material in the manu- 
 facture of celluloid. They are dried at 
 212 F., ground up, and stored in a 
 place free from moisture. Three ves- 
 sels of glass, or any other material not 
 liable to be attacked by acids, are re- 
 quired for converting the cellulose into 
 pyroxyline. The cellulose is first soaked 
 iii one of the vessels for 10 to 15 minutes 
 in acid; it is then pressed out, trans- 
 ferred to the second vessel containing 
 fresh acid, consisting of a mixture of 3 
 parts of sulphuric acid of 1.834 specific 
 gravity and 2 of concentrated com- 
 mercial nitric acid. The acids in the 
 first and second vessels may be used in 
 subsequent operations by raising the 
 temperature to about 86 to 95 F., and 
 keeping the material in the bath for a 
 
 few hours. When the conversion is 
 complete, the pyroxyline is pressed out 
 and freed from adhering acid by wash- 
 ing it in the third vessel. It is again 
 pressed out and further washed in tanks 
 resting on an inclined plane and fed 
 with running water. To convert the 
 pyroxyline into celluloid, 42 to 50 parts 
 of camphor are intimately mixed with 
 100 of pyroxyline, wrapped in a strong 
 tissue capable of great resistance, then 
 enclosed in bags made of horse-hair 
 cloth, and placed between the plates of 
 a warm press, and subjected to pressure 
 for 1 hour or longer. The cakes re- 
 maining in the bags can then be brought 
 into a heated cylinder press, and next 
 into an apparatus in which a vacuum 
 prevails, while the cylinder iacket con- 
 tains such substances as chloride of 
 calcium, concentrated sulphuric acid, 
 etc., for the absorption of moisture. 
 Resinous or other substances and color- 
 ing matter may be incorporated with 
 this product, to obtain uniform 1 y colored 
 or marbled masses. Celluloid made 
 by this and similar processes becomes 
 plastic when heated, and may be cast. 
 The celluloid is made incombustible by 
 washing the pyroxyline in a solution 
 of silicate of soda, and incorporating 
 with it phosphate of ammonia or soda, 
 borate of lead, or fluxes used in porce- 
 lain and glass painting. 
 
 G. Mag mis & Co., oj Berlin, dissolve 
 50 parts of gun-cotton in a mixture of 
 100 parts of ether and 25 of camphor, 
 and evaporate the solvent from the re- 
 sulting transparent, jelly-like mass un- 
 til it is plastic. It is then exposed in 
 thin plates to the air until it is hard and 
 capable of taking a polish. Billiard 
 balls, etc., are prepared by rolling 
 several plates together, and rasping the 
 new-formed plate into a coarse powder. 
 This is dried at 222.8 F., pressed in 
 metallic moulds, and heated for li or, 
 at the utmost, If hours at 248 F. 
 
 Treatment of Pyroxyline in the Manu- 
 facture of Plastic Masses. Pyroxyline 
 is prepared by saturating some form of 
 cellulose, linen, cotton, starch, dex- 
 trine, etc., in a mixture of nitric and 
 sulphuric acids. 
 
 After a sufficient soaking the acid is 
 drawn off, the material thoroughly 
 washed and allowed to diy for 12 to 24 
 hours. The resulting product, while 
 
CELLULOID, CAOUTCHOUC, ETC. 
 
 still moist, is treated with a solvent, as 
 methyl alcohol, ethyl alcohol, sul- 
 phuric ether, etc., to which gum, bal- 
 sam, resins, coloring matter, etc., have 
 been added. The solvent may be used 
 in the proportion of i gallon to 2 2 pounds 
 of pyroxyline, but may vary according 
 to circumstances. The proportion of 
 gums and pigments depends on the 
 color, tenacity, and degree of hardness 
 desired. The mass is now heated in a suit- 
 able vessel from 150 to 220 F., whereby 
 it becomes plastic ; it is then ground, 
 thoroughly mixed, and dried at a tem- 
 perature not exceeding 150 F., when 
 it is brought, while still plastic, into 
 the desired moulds. 
 
 How to Work and Treat Celluloid. 
 Celluloid is worked and treated in the 
 same manner as all other horn-like 
 substances. The same instruments 
 may be used for turning, boring, and 
 planing it. By heating it to 165 F. it 
 becomes sufficiently plastic to assume 
 all desired forms by pressing. It is 
 necessary to heat the mould, which 
 should be of brass, before pressing, and 
 the article of celluloid should be cooled 
 off in the mould by means of cold water. 
 If the heat is raised above 165 F. the 
 material should remain in the mould 
 only a few minutes. For polishing, it 
 is best to use very fine pumice stone 
 and powdered emery mixed in equal 
 parts, and kneaded into a dough with 
 hot soap, which must be free from rosin. 
 The mixture is then dried and spread 
 upon the polishing instrument. To 
 cement celluloid upon wood, leather, 
 etc., a solution of 1 part of shellac in 
 1 part of spirit of camphor and 3 to 4 
 parts of alcohol 90 per cent, strong is 
 required. The best cement is pure, 
 very finely-scraped celluloid dissolved 
 in spirit of wine 90 per cent, strong. 
 When the material is cut with iron in- 
 struments, moving quickly to and fro, 
 creating considerable heat, it is recom- 
 mended to allow water to trickle upon 
 the cutting or sawing tool. When 
 articles are to be punched or pressed 
 from the material, it should be heated 
 in lukewarm water to 100 F., as this 
 will prevent it from tearing and splinter- 
 ing. In case it has become brittle, it is 
 dipped into spirit of camphor, but must 
 not remain in it too long. Finished 
 articles should not be kept in air-tight 
 
 boxes, since these will prevent the evap- 
 oration of the camphor. 
 
 New Celluloid. Pared potatoes are 
 treated for 36 hours with a mixture of 
 8 parts of sulphuric acid and 100 parts 
 of water. The mass is then washed and 
 dried between sheets of blotting-paper 
 and pressed. Tobacco pipes, closely 
 resembling meerschaum, are manu- 
 factured from this mass in France, and 
 it is claimed that a strong pressure im- 
 parts sufficient hardness to it so that it 
 can be used as a substitute for ivory 
 and for the manufacture of billiard 
 balls, etc. By using sodium hydrate 
 3 per cent, strong instead of sulphuric 
 acid, the mass becomes more elastic, 
 but acquires a dirty white color. By 
 using soda lye 19 per cent, strong a 
 horn-like mass is obtained which can 
 be worked in the same manner as horn. 
 The action is far more energetic if white 
 turnips are treated in the same manner. 
 To obtain a mass closely resembling 
 buck's horn, the turnip is bored through 
 in the centre of the conical end, but the 
 upper, larger end is left uninjured. It 
 is then stuck upon a stick, dipped in 
 hot tallow, and placed near a warm 
 stove, when, in a few days, it will as- 
 sume a form closely resem bl ing a buck's- 
 horn handle, which requires only to be 
 colored by coating it with Paris polish- 
 ing lacquer. A variety of articles can 
 be manufactured in the same manner. 
 The mass is princi 
 
 ipally used for 
 olored in an 
 
 or veneer- 
 
 ng. It can be colored in any manner 
 desired, and by moistening with diluted 
 glycerine water it becomes as pliable 
 as" leather and well suited for coating 
 various articles. By using yellow tur- 
 nips instead of white, forms resembling 
 buck's horn, but of the color of coral, 
 are obtained. They are used for knife, 
 umbrella, and whip-handles, and walk- 
 ing-sticks. This substance has been 
 called coral celluloid, or corallin. 
 
 Manufacture of Rubber Stamps. 
 For this a vulcanizing apparatus with 
 lamp and thermometer, as used by 
 dentists, is required, and an iron 
 chase, in which the types are firmly 
 held. The types are o'iled in the usual 
 manner, and 'the vulcanite poured over 
 them. The matrix is not allowed to 
 become dry, but a plate of vulcan-. 
 ized caoutchouc is laid upon it. The 
 caoutchouc is forced into the matrix by 
 
60 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 pressing between two iron plates; a 
 few sheets of paper beiug placed be- 
 tween them to prevent the caoutchouc 
 from sticking to the matrix. The whole 
 is then placed in the water of the vul- 
 canizing apparatus, and heated to 305 
 F. After it has become cold the mould 
 is taken out and the caoutchouc de- 
 tached. 
 
 To Soften Rubber Hose after it has 
 become Hard. Dip the hose in petro- 
 leum, and hang it up for 2 days to al- 
 low the oil to drip off, and repeat the 
 operation once or twice. 
 
 Metallized Caoutchouc. Mix non- 
 vulcanized caoutchouc with powdered 
 lead, zinc, or antimony, and vulcanize 
 the product in the usual manner. 
 
 To Jtemove all Stickiness from the 
 Surface of Dried Caoutchouc. Pour 
 11 parts of oil of turpentine overl part 
 of caoutchouc. This will give a tliiu 
 paste. Stir into this a small quantity, 
 about i part, of hot, concentrated liver 
 of sulphur. This gives a yellow emul- 
 sion, which, in drying, leaves the caout- 
 chouc entirely elastic and without the 
 slightest stickiness. 
 
 Cement for Vulcanized Caoutchouc : 
 
 Stockholm pitch 3 parts. 
 
 American rosin 3 " 
 
 Crude caoutchouc 6 " 
 
 Oil of turpentine 12 " 
 
 are heated and stirred together. Should 
 the mass be too thick for desired pur- 
 poses, add some more oil of turpentine. 
 The surfaces to be cemented should be 
 roughened with pumice-stone or emery 
 before the cement is applied. 
 
 Utilization of Vulcanized Caoutchouc 
 Waste. The waste is comminuted as 
 much as possible and exposed to a tem- 
 perature of 570 F. until a plastic mass 
 is formed. The heating is done by 
 passing steam through a cylinder con- 
 taining the comminuted waste. Ten 
 pounds of the mass are then mixed with 
 
 Palm oil 2 ounces. 
 
 Sulphur 5% " 
 
 White lead or magnesia, lime, 
 
 zinc oxide, or clay 3 pounds. 
 
 If necessary the articles manufactured 
 from this mass are exposed to heat. 
 
 Gutta-percha Composition. The fol- 
 lowing compositions are suitable for 
 
 i ornaments, mouldings, tea-traya, pict 
 ure frames, etc. : 
 
 I. II. 
 
 PartB. Parts. 
 
 Gutta-percha . . 4 Gutta-percha . . 4 
 Bone-black ... 2 Powdered whale- 
 White arsenic . . ^ bone or horn 
 
 shavings ... 2 
 
 A hard composition of a light color 
 consists of: 
 
 Gutta-percha ........ 3 parts. 
 
 Ivory or bone dust ...... 1 part 
 
 Pipe-clay ......... % " 
 
 To Color C'oittc'iouc and Gutta- 
 percha BlacJ-. Boil the material in a 
 solution of 1 part of blue vitriol in 10 
 parts of water, and compounded with 
 1 part of caustic ammonia, or in a solu- 
 tion of 1 part of potassium bisulphate 
 and i part of blue vitriol in 10 parts 
 of water. 
 
 Green. Boil : 
 
 Sal-ammoniac ........ 1 part. 
 
 Blue vitriol ........ % " 
 
 Burned lime ........ 2 parts. 
 
 Water .......... 10 " 
 
 The dark or light shade of the color 
 can be regulated by adding more or less 
 of the substances. 
 
 Solution of Gutta-percha for the Use 
 of Shoemakers. Waste of gutta-percha 
 is soaked in boiling water and cut into 
 small pieces. The pieces are placed in 
 a tin or sheet-iron vessel with a close- 
 fitting cover, and covered with coal-tar 
 oil, and allowed to stand quietly from 
 12 to 18 hours. They are then heated 
 in hot water until they melt, and the 
 mass is thoroughly stirred for some 
 time. As the solution congeals on be- 
 coming cold, it must be placed in boil- 
 ing water until it is to be used. 
 
 Caoutchouc Compositions for Sharp' 
 ening and Polishing Knives, etc. Mix : 
 
 PARTS BY WEIGHT. 
 
 I. 
 
 Caoutchouc . . 280 
 Powdered emery 1120 
 Graphite . . 
 Zinc white . 
 Yellow ochre 
 Sulphur . . 
 Lampblack . 
 
 II. 
 
 280 
 
 III. 
 
 280 
 
 512 488 
 
 6% 
 
 IV. 
 
 280 
 
 1120 
 56 
 
 V. 
 
 280 
 1120 
 
 Nos. I. and V., containing emery, 
 are the hardest and best suited for 
 
CELLULOID, CAOUTCHOUC, ETC. 
 
 61 
 
 grinding compositions, while Nos. II., i 
 111., and IV. are used for polishing! 
 purposes. 
 
 Caoutchouc Cements. For Glass. 
 PARTS. 
 
 I. II. 
 
 Caoutchouc 1 12 
 
 Mastic 12 120 
 
 Diunmur 4 
 
 Chloroform 50 600 
 
 Beu/iue 10 
 
 The cement, on being applied to the 
 glass, adheres at once, and when dry 
 possesses a high degree of elasticity. 
 
 Transparent Caoutchouc Cement 
 J'or Glass. 
 
 Caoutchouc 2 parts 
 
 Mastic 6 " 
 
 Chloroform 100 " 
 
 The solution is effected by allowing 
 the ingredients to stand for a few days 
 in a cold place. The cement, which is 
 quite transparent, must be applied at 
 once, as it becomes viscid in a very 
 short time. 
 
 Cement for Rubber Shoes and Boots. 
 To repair holes in rubber shoes the fol- 
 lowing cement is used : 
 
 A. Caoutchouc ....... 10 parts. 
 
 Chloroform 280 
 
 B. Caoutchouc 10 
 
 Hosin 4 
 
 Gum turpentine 2 
 
 Oil of turpentine 40 
 
 The solution A is prepared by allow- 
 ing the caoutchouc to dissolve in the 
 chloroform. For the solution B the 
 caoutchouc is cut into small pieces and 
 melted with the rosin. The turpentine 
 is then added, and the mass is finally 
 dissolved in the oil of turpentine. 
 Both solutions are then mixed together. 
 
 To repair a hole in a rubber shoe or 
 water-proof garment a piece of close 
 linen is dipped in the cement and laid 
 upon the place to be repaired, which 
 has been previously brushed over with 
 the cement. As soon as the linen 
 adheres the cement is applied and 
 smoothed. With some skill the shoe 
 can be repaired so that it cannot be 
 detected. 
 
 Gutta-percha Cements. For Glass. 
 
 Gutta-percha 100 parts. 
 
 Pluck pitch or asphaltum ... 100 " 
 Oil of turpentine 15 " 
 
 This cement, which should be used 
 hot, is well suited for every purpose, 
 but adheres particularly well to leather. 
 
 For Leather. A solution of gutta- 
 percha in bisulphide of carbon of the 
 consistency of syrup, and sufficiently 
 diluted with petroleum, does excellent 
 service. A thin layer of the cement is 
 applied and the pieces of leather are 
 tightly pressed together. 
 
 Cement for Rubber Combs. A. A very 
 thick solution of gutta-percha in bi- 
 sulphide of carbon is prepared. 
 
 B. Dissolve sulphur in bisulphide of 
 carbon. 
 
 The parts to be cemented are brushed 
 over with the solution A and pressed 
 together. When dry the solution B is 
 applied. 
 
 Elastic Gutta-percha and Linseed-oil 
 Cement. 
 
 Gutta-percha 10 parts. 
 
 Benzine 100 " 
 
 Linseed-oil varnish 100 " 
 
 Dissolve the gutta-percha in the ben- 
 zine, and when the solution is clear 
 mix it with the varnish. This cement 
 is very elastic, serviceable for making 
 tissues water-proof and for cementing 
 shoe soles to uppers, as it does not 
 break when bent. 
 
 Gutta-percha Cement for Horses' 
 Hoofs. To fill cracks and fissures in 
 the hoofs of horses a cement is required 
 which resists the action of water and 
 possesses great elasticity combined with 
 solidity. The following compound an- 
 swers all demands : 
 
 Gum ammoniac . . . 10 parts by weight. 
 Purified gutta-percha . 20 to 25 
 
 The gutta-percha is heated from 195 to 
 212 F., and the powdered gum kneaded 
 into it until a homogeneous mass is 
 formed. The place to be cemented 
 should be thoroughly cleansed. The 
 cement is heated until it becomes soft, 
 and the crack in the hoof filled with it 
 by means of a heated knife. It be- 
 comes hard when cooled off to the ordi- 
 nary temperature, and acquires in a 
 short time such a degree of solidity 
 that nails mav be driven into it. 
 
 Substitute for Caoutchouc. Chloride 
 of sulphur is mixed with bisulphide of 
 carbon and naphtha, or any suitable 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 volatile solvent. Some fat oil, for in- 
 stance rape-seed oil, is added to the 
 mixture, which is allowed to stand 
 quietly until the greater part of the 
 volatile materials has evaporated. The 
 vapors are condensed for future use. 
 The color of this substitute for caout- 
 chouc is yci'owish-brown, and can be 
 colored by adding suitable pigments. 
 
 Substitute for Gutta-percha. This is 
 prepared by boiling the external part 
 of the bark of the birch tree in water 
 over an open fire. A black fluid sub- 
 stance remains in the evaporating ves- 
 sel, which, when exposed to the air, 
 becomes hard and very compact. The 
 mass possesses all the properties of 
 gutta-percha and may be used for the 
 same purposes. 
 
 Composition for Ornaments, Busts, 
 Toys, etc. The mass consists of isin- 
 glass or any other animal glue, vegeta- 
 ble or beeswax or rosin, and glycerine. 
 The proportions depend on the degree 
 of hardness the composition is to have. 
 Fifty of glue, 35 of wax or rosin, 15 of 
 glycerine, and the necessary quantity 
 of a metallic oxide as a coloring sub- 
 stance, give a composition as hard as 
 horn. For a soft composition 50 parts 
 of glue, 25 of wax or rosin, and 25 of 
 glycerine are required. The glue is 
 dissolved in the glycerine by means of 
 steam, and the wax or rosin added to 
 the solution. When this is melted and 
 mixed with the ingredients, the mineral 
 color is added, and the mass, while in 
 a liquid state, poured into moulds of 
 plaster of Paris, wood, or metal. By 
 adding 30 to 35 per cent, of zinc white, 
 or another mineral pigment according 
 to the color the article is to have, the 
 hardness of the composition can be 
 much increased. 
 
 Composition for Rollers of Wringers 
 arnl Wash Machines. This consists of 
 a mixture of sulphured linseed oil or 
 other oil, fibrous materials (comminuted 
 linen or cotton rags), and rosin or pitch. 
 The materials are kneaded or passed 
 between hot rollers until all parts are 
 intimately mixed together. The mass 
 is then poured around the spindle of 
 the roller, which has been placed in a 
 suitable mould. 
 
 A sbestos and Rubber Packing. Equal 
 parts by weight of asbestos and caout- 
 chouc are mixed together, forming an 
 
 elastic mass capable of resisting heat. 
 As it contains no metallic oxides or 
 foreign substances, it does not attack 
 the piston-rods, and as it resists even 
 caustic agents, it is very useful in chem- 
 ical manufactories, etc. 
 
 Composition for Billiard Balls. 
 Allow 80 parts of Russian glue and 10 
 of ordinary glue to swell up in 10 parts 
 of water. Heat the mass in a water 
 bath and add 5 parts of heavy spar, 4 
 of chalk, and 1 of boiled linseed oil. 
 Take out part of the mass and when 
 sufficiently cool form it into small 
 sticks. Dip these sticks into the re- 
 maining mass, allow what adheres to 
 them to dry, and repeat the dipping 
 and drying until a crude ball has been 
 formed. When this has become quite 
 dry, which will require from 3 to 4 
 months, it is turned in the usual man- 
 ner, then placed for 1 hour in a bath of 
 acetate of alumina, dried, and polished 
 in the same manner as an ivory ball. 
 
 Picture-frame Composition. Mix: 
 
 Glue previously soaked and melted 
 
 in \v;iter 13 parts. 
 
 Pulverized litharge 4 " 
 
 White lead 8 " 
 
 Plaster of Paris 1 part. 
 
 Very fine sawdust 10 parts. 
 
 The mixture is poured into moulds 
 consisting of 2 parts, which should be 
 first brushed over with oil. 
 
 A Mass for Toys, Vessels, etc., con- 
 sists of a mixture of clay and absorbent 
 substances such as infusorial earth, cel- 
 lulose, fibrous substances, etc., stirred 
 into a paste with water and cast in 
 plaster-of-Paris moulds. When hard 
 the mass is taken out and dipped into 
 a solution of water-glass, which is en- 
 tirely absorbed by the composition. 
 The articles are then dried at 212 F. 
 If they are to be colored outside a thin 
 layer of colored clay is first placed in 
 the mould and on top of this the above- 
 mentioned mass ; the further treatment 
 being the same as above. Dolls' heads, 
 boxes, etc., are manufactured in this 
 manner. By using metallic moulds, 
 instead of those of plaster of Paris, the 
 ingredient^ may be mixed with solution 
 of water-glass before they are brought 
 into the moulds. 
 
 Mass for Dolls 1 Heads. Clay slate 
 is ground fine and 50 per cent, of it 
 
CEMENTS, PASTES, AND PUTTIES. 
 
 stirred into a fluid paste with 20 per 
 cent, of paper pulp and 30 per cent, of 
 plaster of Paris and a sufficient quantity 
 of water. The mass is then cast in moulds. 
 
 Marmorin. Heat, grind, and wash 
 some magnesite and mix it intimately 
 with an equal amount of solution of sul- 
 phate of magnesia, 1.190 specific gravity. 
 The mass is cast in oiled moulds. When 
 hard it can be washed with soapsuds. 
 
 New Mass for Hollow Articles. These 
 articles are manufactured by bringing 
 a frame of the article, made of fibrous 
 substance or paper, into a mould with a 
 composition, and pressing both together. 
 
 The best composition consists of 32 
 parts of solid (oxidized) oil, a like 
 quantity of finely-ground cork, 2 parts 
 each of minium and unslaked lime, and 
 3 of paratfine wax. 
 
 Papier Mache from Flour. The 
 mass is prepared by stirring either 
 wheat, oat, rye, barley, or bean flour 
 into a thick paste with linseed-oil var- 
 nish. It is then pressed in moulds or 
 rolled out in plates and dried in the 
 usual manner. The articles, Avhen en- 
 tirely dry, are saturated with linseed 
 oil, then treated with colored lacquers, 
 and finally polished. 
 
 Fine Pasteboard Mass for Moulding 
 Large Figures. Boil 4 parts of waste 
 paper in water and mix them thor- 
 oughly with 6 of whiting. The mass 
 is then kneaded, rolled out upon a 
 board, and cut in pieces, which are 
 pressed into the separate parts of the 
 mould and then taken out and dried. 
 The pieces are then joined together 
 with the same mass and glue water, and I 
 when they are dry the uneven places 
 are smoothed by means of a knife, file, i 
 and shave-grass, and finally the figure j 
 is coated with a composition consisting 
 of French chalk and decoction of Bra- 
 zil wood, and when dry is painted, 
 gilded, etc. 
 
 Composition for Razor Strops. Mix 
 18 parts of fine paper pulp with 3 of 
 powdered emery and 2 of starch. Fer- 
 ric oxide or stannic oxide can be sub- 
 stituted for the emery. 
 
 CEMENTS, PASTES, AND PUTTIES. 
 
 To Cement Iron to Iron. Mix : 
 Powdered cast iron bore chips ... 60 parts. 
 
 Sal-ammoniac 2 " 
 
 Flowers of sulphur 1 part. 
 
 and stir the mixture into a stiff paste by 
 adding water. The cement must be 
 used while fresh. 
 
 Mastic Cement. Powder: 
 
 Slaked lime 60 parts. 
 
 Sand 36 " 
 
 Litharge 3 " 
 
 and knead them to a stiff mass with 7 
 to 10 parts of old linseed oil, or linseed- 
 oil varnish. It is best to do this in a 
 mortar with a pestle, and the mass 
 should be thoroughly worked. 
 
 Cement for Steam-pipes. Rub as fine 
 as possible : 
 
 Litharge 2 parts. 
 
 Powdered slaked lime 1 part. 
 
 Sand 1 " 
 
 and mix the mass with a sufficient 
 quantity of hot linseed-oil varnish to 
 form a stiff paste. This cement must 
 be used while fresh and warm. 
 
 Cement for Glass Retorts. Mix : 
 
 Iron filings 13V pounds. 
 
 Cement 2J4 " 
 
 Plaster of Paris 1 pound. 
 
 Sal-ammoniac 2% ounces. 
 
 Powdered sulphur 1% " 
 
 Vinegar 1% pints. 
 
 and stir the mass into a paste with water. 
 The cemented articles must not be ex- 
 posed to moisture. 
 
 English Cement for Porcelain. Soak 
 1 drachm of isinglass in water; pour 
 upon this a sufficient quantity of alcohol 
 to cover the isinglass, and allow it to 
 dissolve, placing it in a warm room. 
 Next dissolve A drachm of mastic in 1 
 fluid drachm of rectified spirit of wine ; 
 mix both solutions together, add | 
 drachm of powdered gum ammoniac, 
 and evaporate the mixture in a water- 
 bath until it has acquired the requisite 
 consistency. Keep the cement in a 
 glass bottle, and when it is to be used 
 place the bottle in hot water, when the 
 cement will become soft so that it can 
 be conveniently applied to the frag- 
 ments of porcelain to be cemented, 
 which should be previously heated. 
 
 Water and Fire-proof Cement, avail- 
 able for Metal, Porcelain, and Earthen- 
 ware. One and three-quarter pints of 
 sweet milk are curdled with the addition 
 of some wine vinegar. The whey is 
 taken and the whites of 4 to 5 egga 
 stirred into it. Finely-pulverized quick- 
 lime is added, and the mass thoroughly 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 mixed together with a spatula. This 
 cement will stand fire and water if it is 
 first dried in the air and then over a 
 fire. 
 
 Cements for Fastening Metal Letters 
 upon Glass, Marble, Wood, etc. No. 1. 
 
 Copal varnish 15 parts. 
 
 Linseed-oil varnish 5 " 
 
 Oil of turpentine 5 " 
 
 Glue 5 " 
 
 The glue is dissolved by placing the 
 mixture in a water-bath. When the 
 solution is complete, 10 parts of slaked 
 lime are added to it. 
 
 No. 2. Fifteen parts of a varnish pre- 
 pared from sandaraeh and white pine 
 rosin are mixed with 5 parts of linseed 
 oil boiled with litharge, and 5 parts of 
 oil of turpentine. To this add 5 parts 
 of marine glue, and, after this mixture 
 has been dissolved by placing it in a 
 water-bath, add 10 parts of flake white 
 and white lead. 
 
 No. 3. Mix 15 parts of copal var- 
 nish prepared with an addition of rosin, 
 and 5 parts of oil of turpentine, with : 
 
 Powdered isinglass . . . . . .2 parts. 
 
 Silted iron filings 5 " 
 
 Washed clay or ochre 10 " 
 
 No. 4. Mix 15 parts of copal var- 
 nish prepared with gum-lac, 5 of lin- 
 seed oil boiled with litharge, 8 of solu- 
 tion of caoutchouc in tar oil, 7 of tar 
 oil with 10 of Roman cement and plas- 
 ter of Paris, 
 
 Cement for Fastening Iron A Hides in 
 Stone. Mix : 
 
 Good plaster of Paris 7 parts. 
 
 Iron filings 1 part. 
 
 and stir the mixture into a paste with 
 water. This cement dries very quickly. 
 
 Cement for Stone Troughs and Wooden 
 Vats. Melt : 
 
 Rosin 2 parts. 
 
 Yellow wax 2 " 
 
 in an iron ladle. Then add 2 parts of 
 very finely-pulverized and calcined 
 ochre, and keep the mass for a short 
 time in a fluid state. By pouring the 
 mass into the joints and cracks of the 
 stone or wood, it forms a cement as hard 
 us stone. 
 
 Cement for Repairing Articles of 
 Sandstone. Mix : 
 
 Dry, clean, fine sand 20 parts. 
 
 Pulverized plumbic oxide .... 2 " 
 Pulverized lime 1 part. 
 
 and form a thick paste by adding lin- 
 seed oil or linseed-oil varnish. 
 
 Davy's Universal Cement. Melt: 
 
 Common pitch 4 parts. 
 
 Gutta-percha 4 " 
 
 in an iron vessel, mix intimately to- 
 gether, and keep the resulting cement 
 either fluid under water, or in a dried 
 and hard condition. 
 
 This cement holds equally well upon 
 wood, stone, glass, porcelain, ivory, 
 leather, parchment, paper, feathers, 
 wool, cotton, linen, etc. 
 
 Cement for Joining Leather Driving 
 Belts. Mix 10 parts of bisulphide of 
 carbon and 1 of oil of turpentine, and 
 dissolve in it a sufficient quantity of 
 gutta-percha to form a paste. The 
 pieces of leather to be joined are cleansed 
 from oil and grease by laying a rag up- 
 on their surfaces and placing a hot iron 
 upon it. Both pieces are then spread 
 with the cement and subjected to press- 
 ure until the cement has become dry. 
 
 Cement for Fastening Rubber upon 
 Metal. This cement is prepared by 
 soaking pulverized shellac in ten times 
 its weight of strong ammonia. The re- 
 sult will be a transparent mass which 
 becomes fluid in 3 to 4 weeks without 
 the use of water. This fluid makes the 
 rubber soft, but after the evaporation 
 of the ammonia it becomes hard and 
 impermeable to gases and fluids. 
 
 Cement for Aquaria, etc. Two and 
 one-quarter pounds each of litharge, 
 fine white sand, plaster of Paris, and 1 
 pound of boiled linseed oil are mixed 
 to a paste and drying oil added. This 
 cement can only be used after it has 
 stood for a few hours, but then does ex- 
 cellent service for salt and fresh-water 
 aquaria, reservoirs, etc. It becomes 
 very hard, but acquires its greatest de- 
 gree of hardness when in salt water. 
 
 Cement for Repairing Defective 
 Places in Castings. One part of black 
 pitch and 1 of rosin are melted in a 
 crucible and a sufficient quantity of 
 fine iron filings added to form a stiff 
 mass, and allowed to become cold. 
 The defective place is heated, a piece 
 
CEMENTS, PASTES, AND PUTTIES. 
 
 65 
 
 of t'ne cement laid upon it and pressed 
 into the defective place with a hot 
 iron. 
 
 Cement for Leather. Ordinary glue 
 and isinglass are soaked for 10 hours in 
 sufficient water to cover them. It is 
 then brought to the boiling point and 
 pure tannin added until the solution be- 
 comes sticky and has the appearance 
 of white of egg. 
 
 (.rli/cerine Cement. This cement is 
 prepared by moistening litharge with 
 glycerine. It forms a cement w; ieli be- 
 comes very hard in 10 minutes. The 
 cement is well suited for vessels con- 
 taining benzole, ether, oils, acids, etc., 
 and also for iron and stone. 
 
 Cement for Petroleum Lamps. 
 
 Rosin 12 parts. 
 
 Strong lye 1C " 
 
 Water 20 " 
 
 Plaster of Paris 20 " 
 
 The rosin is boiled with the lye until 
 it is entirely dissolved and, when cold, 
 forms a tenacious solid mass. This is 
 sufficiently diluted by adding the water, 
 and the plaster of Paris is then can> 
 fully worked in. This cement is in- 
 soluble in petroleum, and can be recom- 
 mended for fastening the metal pares 
 upon glass lamps. 
 
 Best Cement for Tortoise Shell. 
 
 Mastic 30 pails. 
 
 Shellac 90 " 
 
 Turpentine 6 " 
 
 Spirit of wine 90 per cent, strong . 350 " 
 
 Cement for Ivory and Bone, White 
 wax, rosin, and oil of turpentine are 
 melted together at a moderate heat so 
 as to form a thick fluid mass. If the 
 cement is to be colored, finely-powdered 
 coloring substances, as red lead, ultra- 
 marine, etc., are added to the mass. 
 
 Casein c Cements. Caseine can be r.sed 
 for preparing a number of cements. It 
 is best i> prepare an entirely pure 
 case i ne, although that found in old 
 cheese may be used; but this always 
 contains some fat, salt, and free acids, 
 which exert an injurious effect upon 
 the hardness and solidity of the cement. 
 Pure caseine is prepared in the follow- 
 ing manner: Milk, carefully skimmed 
 so that not a trace of cream 'remains, is 
 allowed to curdle by letting it stand in 
 5 
 
 a warm place. The curdled milk is 
 then poured through a paper filter, and 
 the caseine remaining upon the filter is 
 washed with rain water until the latter 
 shows no trace of free acid. To remove 
 the last traces of fat the caseine is tied 
 in a cloth and boiled in water. It is 
 then spread out upon blotting-pa;>er 
 and allowed to dry in a moderately 
 warm place, when it will shrivel u| to 
 a horn-like mass. This pure caseins, 
 when properly dried, can be kept for a 
 long time without injury. 
 
 Cn seine Cement for Metals. Mix : 
 
 Washed quartz sund 10 parts. 
 
 ('asriiic 8 " 
 
 Slaked lime 10 " 
 
 Caseine Cement for Meerschaum. Dis- 
 solve caseine in water-glass, stir quickly 
 finely-powdered burned magnesia into 
 the solution and use at once, as the 
 cement rapidly becomes hard. By 
 mixing genuine meerschaum powder 
 with the magnesia, a mass closely re- 
 sembling genuine meerschaum is ob- 
 tained. 
 
 Ordinary Caseine Cement. 
 
 rWh-.e 12 parts. 
 
 Slaked lime 50 " 
 
 Fine sand . 50 " 
 
 This cheap cement is well adapted 
 for filling large holes in freestone and 
 joints between building stones. 
 
 Best Caseiti e Cemen t. Fresh cheese is 
 boiled in water until it has been dis- 
 solved to a mass which will draw into 
 threads between the fingers. Slaked 
 lime and very finely-sifted wood ashes 
 are then stirred into the solution. Take : 
 
 Cheese 100 parts. 
 
 Wat'-r 200 " 
 
 Slaked lime 25 " 
 
 Wood ashes 2:> " 
 
 Chinese Blood Cement. This cement 
 is in general use in China to make 
 wooden and pasteboard vessels, willow- 
 ware, etc., water-proof. Mix : 
 
 Slaked lime 100 parts. 
 
 Beaten bullocks' blood 75 " 
 
 Alum 2 " 
 
 Blood and Ash Cement. 
 
 Flaked lime . . 100 parts. 
 
 Sifted coal ashes . 50 " 
 
 Beaten bullocks' biood 15 " 
 
TECIINO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 This cement is used for filling joints 
 between bricks and building stones. 
 
 Jewellers' Cement. 
 
 Isinglass 100 parts. 
 
 JIastic varnish 50 " 
 
 The isinglass is dissolved in as small 
 a quantity of water as possible, with 
 the addition of some strong spirit of 
 wine. The mastic varnish is prepared 
 by pouring highly-rectified spirit of 
 wine and benzine over finely-powdered 
 mastic and dissolving this in a^ small a 
 quantity of the solvent as possible. 
 The two solutions are then poured into 
 a porcelain dish and intimately worked 
 together. 
 
 Armenian Glue. This preparation 
 possesses about the same properties as 
 the diamond glue and is used for the 
 same purposes : 
 
 . . . 600 parts. 
 
 Isinglass 
 
 Gum ammoniac 
 
 Mastic . . . 
 
 The isinglass is allowed to swell up 
 in water to which some spirit of wine 
 has been added. The gum ammoniac 
 and mastic are dissolved in as little 
 spirit of wine as possible', and both solu- 
 tions are then intimately mixed to- 
 gether. 
 
 Cement for Quickly Closing Leaky 
 Places in Barrels, 
 
 Tallow 25 parts. 
 
 Wax 20 " 
 
 Lard 40 " 
 
 Sifted wood ashes 25 " 
 
 are mixed together by heating and ap- 
 plied to the defective place by means 
 of a heated knife blade. 
 
 Cement for Iron Stoves. 
 
 Wood ashes 10 parts. 
 
 Clay 10 " 
 
 Burned lime 4 " 
 
 are mixed with sufficient water to form 
 <a stiff' paste. 
 
 To Prepare Liquid Glue. Dissolve 
 '3J ounces of ordinary gelatine in a mixt- 
 ure of 1 pint of water and \ ounce of 
 crude oxalic acid, and keep the solu- 
 tion 5 or 6 hours in a flask on a water- 
 bath. It is then poured in a porcelain 
 dish, diluted, neutralized with calcium 
 
 carbonate, filtered, and evaporated at a 
 moderate temperature. The quantity 
 of glue obtained by this process will be 
 about double the quantity of the gela- 
 tine used. It is very clear, slightly 
 colored, and very tenacious. 
 
 Liquid Glue. Soak the glue in water, 
 then melt it at a moderate heat, and add 
 strong vinegar until the solution re- 
 mains a thick fluid when cool. Add a 
 small quantity of acetic or nitric acid, 
 which will keep it fluid at an ordinary 
 temperature until the acid evaporates. 
 
 Glue for Labels, etc. Dissolve at a 
 moderate heat 2 parts of white gelatine 
 and 1 of rock candy in 3 of water. Or, 
 dissolve at a moderate heat 9 ounces of 
 ordinary glue, 4 ounces of rock candy, 
 and 1J ounces of gum Arabic in 1 part 
 of rain, or distilled, water. 
 
 Glue for Fancy Articles, Fine Leather 
 Goods, etc. Compound 1 pint of rye 
 whiskey with the same quantity of 
 water. Add to this 4 ounces of pow- 
 dered starch, and stir the mass into a 
 paste. Then dissolve li ounces of good 
 glue in the same quantity of water, add 
 li ounces of thick turpentine, mix 
 thoroughly, and finally combine this 
 mixture, constantly stirring, with the 
 above paste. 
 
 Water-proof Glue for Wooden Uten- 
 sils. Boil for 10 minutes a mixture of: 
 
 Thick solution of glue 10 parts. 
 
 Linseed-oil varnish 5 " 
 
 Litharge 1 part. 
 
 and use the compound while hot. 
 
 Glue for Ivory and Bone. Colorless 
 isinglass is boiled with water until a 
 thick solution has been formed. Add 
 to this a sufficient quantity of washed 
 zinc white to form a liquid of the con- 
 sistency of honey. 
 
 Glue for Joining Glass to Wood. A 
 solution of ordinary glue is made very 
 fluid by bringing it to the boiling 
 point. Acid to it, with constant stir- 
 ring, a sufficient quantity of very finely- 
 sifted wood ashes to form a mass of the 
 consistency of syrup. It should be 
 used while hot. This cement, which 
 resists the action of water, adheres re- 
 markably well and can also be used for 
 joining stone and wood. 
 
 Diamond Glue of the Best Qualfti/. 
 The following preparation is highly 
 valued by jewellers for cementing gems 
 and corals and can also be advanta- 
 
CEMENTS, PASTES, AND PUTTIES. 
 
 geously used for fastening colored 
 pastes upon white glass. It can be ex- 
 posed for some time to the action of 
 water without becoming soft. It ad- 1 
 heres most tenaciously to glass or gems : 
 
 Isinglass 8 parts. 
 
 Gum ammoniac 1 part. 
 
 Galbanum 1 ' 
 
 Spirit of wine 4 parts. 
 
 The isinglass is allowed to swell up 
 in water to which some of the spirit of 
 wine has been added. The resins are 
 dissolved in the remaining spirit of 
 wine and added to the isinglass. The 
 cement, before it is used, should be 
 sufficiently heated to make it soft. 
 
 Chromium Glue. Glue, when com- 
 bined with chromates and exposed to 
 the light, loses its solubility in water, 
 and can therefore be used for repairing 
 valuable glass or porcelain articles. It 
 is prepared in the following manner: 
 Pure white glue is dissolved in boiling 
 water, potassium bichromate is added to 
 the solution and intimately mixed with 
 it by stirring, and immediately poured 
 into tin boxes, where it is allowed to 
 congeal. The following proportions 
 are used : 
 
 White glue 5 to 10 parts. 
 
 Water 90 " 
 
 Potassium bichromate . . . . 1 to 2 " 
 
 Dissolved in water 10 " 
 
 When the glue is to be used a suffi- 
 cient quantity of it is melted, spread 
 uniformly upon the fractured surfaces 
 of the glass, and the article exposed for 
 a few hours to the sun. 
 
 Good Mouth Glue. No. I. Pieces of 
 ordinary glue are soaked for 2 days. The 
 water is then poured off and the glue 
 melted over a moderate fire. To 1 
 pound of glue add J pound of white 
 sugar, mix thoroughly, and then pour 
 the mass into suitable moulds and 
 allow it to stand quietly for a few days. 
 In using the glue it is moistened with 
 the tongue. 
 
 No. II. Soak for 2 or 3 days 1 part 
 of isinglass, i of parchment shavings, i 
 of rock candy. Then boil the whole in 
 an earthen pot, stirring constantly to 
 prevent the mass from burning. When 
 it is boiled down to about one-half the 
 quantity, strain the fluid through a 
 coarse cloth, and when about half cold 
 
 pour a thin layer of it upon a stone 
 slab. 
 
 Excellent Mouth Glue. Isinglass, to 
 which some sugar has been added, is 
 boiled until it forms a yellow trans- 
 parent mass. This glue may also be 
 used for joining torn pieces of paper, 
 
 Lime Putty for Wood. 
 
 Powdered slaked lime 1 part, 
 
 Rye flour 2 parts, 
 
 Linseed-oil varnish 1 part, 
 
 and a sufficient quantity of umber to 
 color it. 
 
 French Putty for Wood. 
 
 Gum Arabic 1 part. 
 
 Water 2 parts. 
 
 Potato starch 3 to 5 " 
 
 Powdered Wood and Oil Putty. Very- 
 fine sawdust is formed into a dough by 
 moistening it with linseed-oil varnish 
 and continued kneading. This very 
 plastic mass forms an excellent putty. 
 
 Powdered Wood and Glue Putty. 
 
 Water 20 parts. 
 
 Glue 1 part. 
 
 Finest sawdust as much as may be required. 
 
 The glue is first entirely dissolved by 
 boiling it in the water, and the sawdust 
 is then gradually stirred in. 
 
 Putty for Floors of Soft Wood. 
 No. I. For Floors which are to 
 
 be 
 
 For Floors which are 
 Scrubbed. 
 
 Caseine 1 pail. 
 
 Water 7 parts. 
 
 Spirit of ammonia 3 part. 
 
 Burned lime A " 
 
 No. II. 
 
 Glue ..2 parts. 
 
 Water 14 " 
 
 Cement 7 " 
 
 Sawdust 3 to 4 " 
 
 Both putties should be prepared im- 
 mediately before they are to be used. 
 
 Putty for Floors which are to be 
 Lacquered. 
 
 Glue 2 parts- 
 
 Water 14 " 
 
 Plaster of Paris 4 " 
 
 Litharge 2 to 4 " 
 
68 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Paste for Wall Paper. 
 
 Flour paste 100 parts. 
 
 Alum water . . . . - 3 " 
 
 Solution of dextrine 5 " 
 
 The object of adding solution of dex- 
 trine is to give more adhesive power to 
 the paste ; that of alum water to pre- 
 vent the paste from spoiling and the 
 wall paper from becoming mouldy in 
 case the wall is not entirely dry. 
 
 Paste for Microscopic Objects. A 
 thick fluid paste which dries quickly, 
 does not crack, and adheres tenaciously 
 to the glass, is required for fastening 
 the glasses covering microscopic objects. 
 A paste or cement prepared from solu- 
 tions of dammar resin, asphaltum, or 
 caoutchouc, or a mixture of the last two 
 in very volatile solvents, is best adapted 
 for the purpose. After the object to be 
 preserved has been placed in the right 
 position upon the glass, a ring of the 
 paste is formed around it and the cover 
 pressed down and held there until the 
 paste has become hard. 
 
 Benzine, petroleum, or bisulphide of 
 carbon may be used as a solvent for dam- 
 mar resin, caoutchouc, or asphaltum. 
 If the enclosure is to contain a fluid be- 
 sides the microscopic preparation it is 
 best to prepare the paste from a mix- 
 ture of caoutchouc and asphaltum, as 
 this resists fluids far better than a solu- 
 tion of dammar resin. 
 
 The paste prepared from dammar 
 resin has a yellow color; that from 
 caoutchouc and asphaltum is black. 
 A white paste is made by rubbing Can- 
 ada balsam with zinc white, and adding 
 a sufficient quantity of benzine to give 
 a syrupy consistency to the mass. 
 
 Glycerine Glue for Enclosing Micro- 
 scopic Preparations. One part by 
 weight of white glue (gelatine) is placed 
 in a porcelain vessel, 6 parts by weight 
 of water are poured over it, and it is 
 allowed to swell up for 24 hours. It is 
 then heated at 175 to 200 F. until it 
 is entirely dissolved. Seven parts of 
 concentrated, colorless glycerine are 
 added to the solution and intimately 
 mixed with it by stirring. The mixt- 
 ure is then heated for 10 to 15 minutes and 
 liltered, while warm, through cotton. 
 
 Paste for Postage /Stamps, etc. 
 
 Dextrine '.2 parts. 
 
 Acetic acid 1 part. 
 
 Water 5 parts. 
 
 Aleohol 1 part. 
 
 The foregoing mixture is used for 
 United States postage stamps. 
 
 Sugar and Lime Paste. 
 
 White cane sugar 12 parts. 
 
 Water . 3G " 
 
 Slaked lime 3 " 
 
 The sugar is dissolved in water, the 
 solution heated to the boiling point, the 
 lime poured in, and the fluid allowed 
 to stand for several days in a covered 
 vessel and stirred once in a while. 
 When it has settled the thick fluid is 
 poured off from the excess of lime. 
 
 The solution obtained in this manner 
 has all the properties of a solution of 
 gum Arabic, possesses great adhesive 
 power, and dries to a lustrous mass. 
 
 fluid Paste. I. Ten pounds of po- 
 tato starch are placed in a porcelain 
 vessel and 5 quarts of water and i 
 pound of nitric acid poured over it. 
 The mixture is allowed to stand for 24 
 hours in a warm place, being several 
 times stirred, and is then boiled until it 
 becomes thickly fluid and very trans- 
 parent. If necessary it is diluted with 
 water and filtered through a close cloth. 
 
 II. Dissolve 10 pounds of gum Arabic 
 and 2 pounds of sugar in 1 gallon of 
 water; add If ounces of nitric acid, heat 
 to the boiling point and mix both fluids 
 I. and II. The resulting paste is liquid, 
 does not mould, and dries to a trans- 
 parent layer upon paper. It is espe- 
 cially well adapted for flaps of envel- 
 opes, flue bookbinders' work, etc. 
 
 Glue . 
 Sugar 
 
 Dry Pocket Paste. 
 
 6 parts- 
 
 The glue is dissolved by boiling in 
 water, the sugar added to the hot so- 
 lution, and the mass evaporated until a 
 test sample congeals on becoming cold. 
 The hard mass dissolves quickly in 
 lukewarm water, and furnishes a paste 
 adapted especially for paper. 
 
 Good Cement for Filling Teeth. The 
 following preparations furnish cements 
 for filling teeth : 
 
 I. II. 
 
 Parts. Tarts. 
 
 Z5nc oxide . . . 200 Zinc oxido . . 500 
 Silica .... 8 Powdered amber 1.5 
 Borax .... 4 Yellow ochre . 1.5 
 Powdered glass . 5 Borax .... 10 
 Powdered glass . 100 
 
CEMENTS, PASTES, AND PUTTIES. 
 
 in. iv. 
 
 Parts. Parts. 
 
 Zinc oxide . . 500 Zinc oxide . . 500 
 
 Powdered pyro- Powdered pyro- 
 
 lusite ... 1.5 lusite ... 1.5 
 
 Yellow ochre . 3.5 Yellow ochre . 4 
 
 Powdered glass . 100 Powdered glass . 100 
 
 Borax .... 10 Borax .... 10 
 
 The ingredients are well mixed, sifted 
 through a hair sieve, and preserved in 
 well-corked bottles. 
 
 When any of the cement is to be used, 
 it is mixed with concentrated solution 
 of zinc chloride to form a paste, and 
 the hollow tooth filled with it. In ten 
 minutes the paste becomes hard, and 
 remains unchanged for years. 
 
 Nos. I. and II. furnish the lightest 
 colored cement, and No. IV. the dark- 
 est. 
 
 Cement for Injured Trees. Mix : 
 
 Sifted wood-ashes 5 parts, 
 
 Yellow ochre 10 " 
 
 Ordinary white lead 50 " 
 
 Venetian turpentine 10 " 
 
 with a sufficient quantity of linseed oil 
 to ,'^ive to the mixture the consistency 
 of an electuary. It should be applied 
 twice to the injured part of the tree. 
 
 German Tree Wax. Mix: 
 
 Finely powdered lime 3 parts. 
 
 Finely powdered charcoal . . . . 1 part, 
 
 with a sufficient quantity of linseed oil 
 to form a homogeneous dough. It should 
 be kept in a pot hermetically closed. 
 It is applied to the injured parts of the 
 tree by means of a large brush. 
 Grafting Wax. 
 
 Pine rosin 50 parts. 
 
 Tallow 10 " 
 
 Oil of turpentine 5 " 
 
 Spirit of wine 5 " 
 
 The resin is melted in an iron vessel, 
 the turpentine added, next the tallow, 
 and finally the spirit of wine, and the 
 ingredients are thoroughly stirred to- 
 gether. 
 
 Durable Paste. Four parts by weight 
 > of glue are allowed to soften in 15 parts 
 of cold water for some hours, and then 
 moderately heated until the solution 
 becomes quite clear. Sixty-five parts 
 of water are now added, Avith constant 
 stirring. In another vessel 30 parts of 
 gtarch paste are stirred in 20 of cold 
 
 water, so that a thin milky fluid is ob- 
 tained without lumps. Into this the 
 boiling solution of glue is poured, with 
 constant stirring, and the whole kept at 
 the boiling temperature. After cooling, 
 10 drops of carbolic acid are added to 
 the paste. This paste is of extraordi- 
 nary adhesive power, and may be used 
 for leather, paper, or card-board with 
 great success. It must be preserved in 
 closed bottles to prevent evaporation 
 of the water, and will in this way keep 
 good for years. 
 
 Paste for Fixing Printed Labels on 
 Machines. Labels are often required 
 to be affixed to parts of machines ; but 
 the paste, etc., used for this purpose 
 often becomes damp, and the label falls 
 off. A paste to resist damp is made as 
 follows : Prepare a paste of good rye 
 flour and glue, to which linseed oil 
 varnish and turpentine have been added 
 in the proportion of i ounce f each to 
 the pound. 
 
 Safety Paste for Post-Office Packages. 
 The postal ^ wrappers and envelopes 
 in common 'use can be easily opened 
 by loosening the gum with mois- 
 ture. Postage stamps can, in the 
 same way, be dishonestly detached. 
 The following compositions will meet 
 this evil : Two adhesive compounds are 
 used one is applied to the flap of the 
 envelope, the other to the part against 
 which it is pressed, or the first to the 
 stamp, and the other to the place on the 
 envelope where it is to be affixed : 
 
 I. Upon the Letter. 
 
 Chromic acid 2.5 parts. 
 
 Caustic ammonia 15 " 
 
 Water .15 " 
 
 Sulphuric acid ]4 part. 
 
 rnpro-ammonium solution ... 30 "parts. 
 Fine white paper 4 " 
 
 II. Upon the Flap or Stamp. Dis- 
 solve isinglass or glue in a mix- 
 ture of 7 parts of water and 1 of acetic 
 acid. 
 
 The chromic acid forms with glue a 
 combination insoluble in water. When 
 the parts of the wrapper, envelope, etc., 
 are fastened together, the union is so 
 firm as to resist all loosening influences, 
 acids, alkalies, hot or cold water, or 
 steam. The wrapper can only be opened, 
 by tearing or cutting. 
 
70 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 CHEMICAL AND TECHNO-CHEMICAL 
 EXPEDIENTS, PEEPARATIONS. 
 
 Johnson's Process and Apparatus for 
 Manufacturing Potassium Ferrocyan- 
 ide. Potassium carbonate 65 parts, 
 wood charcoal, or coke, 115 parts, 
 water 65 parts, are heated until the 
 coal is entirely dry. It now contains 
 in its pores the decomposed potassium 
 carbonate, which, together with 5 parts 
 of iron filings, are placed in cylindrical 
 cast-iron retorts. Fig. 5 represents the 
 vertical section of the furnace and re- 
 torts, and Fig. 6 the horizontal section 
 in the direction of 1 . . 2. In 
 
 Fig. 6. 
 
 Johnson's Apparatus for Manufacturing 
 Potassium Ferrocyauide, 
 
 Fig. 5 a b are the retorts standing 
 alongside each other in the furnace x. 
 
 They are connected by the pipe c, which 
 passes from the upper part of the retort 
 a to the lower part of 6. The mass in 
 the retorts is heated to a white heat to 
 expel all moisture; aminoiiiacal gas is 
 then passed through it. This is pro- 
 duced by heating equal parts of am- 
 monium sulphate and burned lime in 
 the cast-iron retort d. As less heat is 
 required for developing the gas, the re- 
 tort d is provided with a special fire- 
 place g, while the other two retorts are 
 heated from e. The retort d is separated 
 by a brick wall from a and b. h is the 
 chimney for both fire-places. The am- 
 moniacal gas passes from the retort d 
 through the pipe / into the lower part 
 of the retort b, and the part not fixed 
 here escapes through m into the chim- 
 ney. When the mass in d ceases to 
 generate gas, the residue is removed 
 through s, falls into the wagon p, and 
 is carted away. The retort d is then 
 charged anew. The retorts a and b are 
 emptied in the same manner, after the 
 gas has sufficiently acted upon the mass. 
 This falls into sheet-iron boxes standing 
 upon the wagon q, which, like the wagon 
 p, runs upon rails. The retorts are 
 opened and shut by the valves s and t. 
 The mass taken from the retorts a and 
 b is treated with water in the usual 
 manner, and lixiviated, and the potas- 
 sium ferrocyanide allowed to crystallize 
 from the fluid. The grate bars in the 
 retorts a and b must be so arranged that 
 they can be easily removed. By omit- 
 ting the iron, potassium cyanide can 
 also be prepared with this apparatus. 
 
 Phosphorescent (Illuminating) Pow- 
 der. Mix 100 parts each of calcium 
 carbonate and phosphate (obtained by 
 burning shells, especially those of 
 tridama and sepia), add unslaked lime 
 100 parts, calcined salt 25 parts, and 25 
 to 50 per cent, of the entire mass of 
 sulphur. This powder illuminates 
 barometers, compasses, etc., and be- 
 comes especially phosphorescent when 
 acted upon by an electric current. 
 [The well-known " luminous paint " is 
 composed of substantially the same ma- 
 terials. It remains faintly luminous 
 for some time after being exposed to the 
 light, and is used for match-safes, etc. 
 (W.)] 
 
 To Thaw Frozen Ground. If there 
 is snow on the ground, place alternate 
 
CHEMICAL AND TECHNO-CHEMICAL EXPEDIENTS, ETC. 71 
 
 layers of unslaked lime and snow over 
 the spot to be thawed. Slaking of the 
 lime generates heat, and in a few hours 
 will soften the ground so that it can 
 easily be dug up even at a temperature 
 of zero F. 
 
 Artificial Sandstone for Filtering. 
 Mix: 
 
 PARTS. 
 
 Clay 
 
 I. 
 
 . 10 
 
 II. 
 
 10 
 
 III. 
 15 
 
 Chalk .... 
 
 . . I 
 
 1 
 
 
 Glass-sand, coarse 
 fine . 
 Flint 
 
 . . 55 
 
 25 
 30 
 
 65 
 5 
 
 The mixture is kneaded with water, 
 shaped into the desired form and 
 strongly burned. 
 
 mus, which is nearly insoluble in water 
 free from alkali. In the usual manner 
 of preparing tincture of litmus, the 
 substances passing into the filter remain 
 in it, and this frequently injures the 
 sharpness of the reaction. 
 
 When a solution is to be prepared 
 from the powder obtained in the above 
 manner, place the necessary quantity 
 of it upon a filter, pour hot water and a 
 few drops of ammonia upon it, and 
 wash out until the sand is exhausted, 
 which can be accomplished in a few 
 minutes. The filtrate is then acidulated 
 with a few drops of sulphuric acid, and 
 again neutralized. 
 
 New Method of Extracting Tannin. 
 With this new apparatus the lixiviation 
 
 Fig. 7. 
 
 To Prepare Tincture of Litmus. A 
 quantity of commercial litmus is pow- 
 dered as fine as possible and extracted 
 with cold water until exhaustion just 
 commences; fine sand is then added 
 and the solution evaporated. During 
 evaporation a sufficient quantity of hy- 
 drochloric acid is added, that the fluid, 
 after the evaporation of the carbonic 
 acid, may have a deep *ed color. The 
 brown-red and perfectly dry powder ob- 
 tained in this manner is rubbed as fine 
 as possible, washed upon large, smooth 
 filters, first with hot and then with cold 
 water, and the residue dried on the water- 
 bath. This contains, precipitated upon 
 the sand, the actual constituent of lit- 
 
 of the materials containing tannin is 
 carried on systematically. The first vat 
 A (Fig. 7) of a battery of five lixiviat- 
 ing vessels is filled with the wood, the 
 alkaline sulphite (1 of the latter to 
 250 of the former), and water. This is 
 boiled by steam and the fluid allowed 
 to pass through the pipe a into the 
 reservoir M. From here it is brought 
 by the pump P into the vat N, and 
 then drawn oflf into the reservoirs R 
 and R'. The contents of the vat A are 
 once more lixiviated, and the entire 
 process is repeated. The third time the 
 fluid from A through N does not pass 
 into R, but into the vat B, which has 
 in the meanwhile been filled with fresh 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 material. The lixiviating water trav- 
 erses the same course as before for the 
 fourth time. The same process is gone 
 through with the vats C, D, and E, so 
 that every vat participates in two opera- 
 tion. In the vats E and 11' the decoc- 
 tion is slightly acidulated with sul- 
 phuric acid. From here it is brought 
 into the clarifying vat II. The tempera- 
 ture of the cover is lowered to about 
 100 F. by cold water passing through 
 the coil pipe S. Albumen (blood) is 
 then added, which is coagulated by 
 steam passing through the pipe S'. 
 The precipitate settles and the fluid 
 passes through the perforated float F, 
 and the filter / filled with lixiviated 
 wood-shavings, into the cistern X. 
 
 The solution of tannin obtained in 
 this manner shows 2 B. It can be 
 used for tanning without further prep- 
 aration. For transportatioji the ex- 
 tract is still further concentrated. 
 
 Process and Apparatus for Purifying 
 Water itrith a Mixture of Caustic Mag- 
 nesia or Carbonate of Magnesia and 
 Sawdust. The purifying battery con- 
 sists of several" cylinders containing 
 boxes e (Fig. 8) with perforated bottoms. 
 
 Fig. 8. 
 
 Upon these are placed an intimate 
 mixture of equal parts of magnesia and 
 sawdust. The water to be purified enters 
 through the cock ;, the cataract w, and 
 the cock h from below into the first 
 cylinder. From here it is convoyed 
 through the pipe r into the second 
 
 cylinder and so on. The finely pow- 
 dered magnesia absorbs the carbonic 
 acid of the water, and, in consequence, 
 precipitates the calcium carbonate of the 
 water in crystalline form upon the mass. 
 From the last cylinder the purified 
 water reaches the discharge pipe. The 
 apparatus works continuously. 
 
 Caustic Potash. Take 1 part of po- 
 tassium carbonate and 4 of water, add 1 
 part of fresh-slaked powdered lime, 
 boil for a few minutes and add gradually 
 6 parts of water. 
 
 Caustic Soda, (Soda Lye). Fill a vat 
 of a capacity of 555 gallons half-full 
 of water, r.nd bring this to the boiling 
 point by introducing steam. Dissolve 
 in this 120 pounds of the best calcined 
 soda. Have ready 165 pounds of 
 freshly burned lime. Add this gradu- 
 ally to the soda lye, and as soon as one 
 portion is dissolved add another. As a 
 strong effervescence takes place, water 
 must be kept ready to prevent the 
 fluid from running over. When all the 
 soda has been added the boiling is con- 
 tinued until everything has been dis- 
 solved. The clear liquor, when the lye 
 has settled, is brought into an iron 
 boiler at least half as large as the vat, 
 and heated over a fire. Water is 
 poured upon the residue rtf soda and 
 lime in the vat, steam introduced and 
 it is boiled once more. The clear 
 liquor is added to that in the boiler. 
 Water is again poured upon the sedi- 
 ment in the vat in order to lixiviate it 
 entirely, and this liquor also added to 
 that in the boiler. This liquor is then 
 evaporated until the desired degree, 
 30 to 35 B., has been obtained. 
 
 To Prepare Pure Chlorine Gas. 
 Put 1 part by weight of powdered potas- 
 sium bichromate in a retort or matrass, 
 compound it with 6 parts by weight of 
 hydrochloric acid, and heat gently over 
 a spirit lamp until a vigorous reaction 
 takes place. The chlorine gas will 
 now develop itself continually and 
 quickly without the necessity of con- 
 tinuing to heat the mixture. 
 
 Chloride of Zinc. Heat in a glass 
 vessel 6 ounces of hydrochloric acid, 
 and compound this with 2J ounces of 
 carbonate of zinc. The fluid, when 
 cold, is filtered through powdered glass, 
 and finally evaporated to dryness over 
 a moderate fire, with constant stirring, 
 
CHEMICAL AND TECHNO-CHEMICAL EXPEDIENTS, ETC. 73 
 
 The mass, while still warm, is powdered, 
 and placed immediately in heated ves- 
 sels, which should be tightly closed. 
 By this process a white powder is ob- 
 tained which deliquesces easily on ex- 
 posure to the air. 
 
 Chloride of Gold. This is prepared 
 by dissolving small pieces of gold free 
 from copper in aqua regia (formed of 2 
 parts of pure hydrochloric acid and 1 
 part of pure nitric acid) until, even 
 when the acid is boiling, no more gold 
 is dissolved. As some gold always re- 
 mains undissolved, the solution is 
 filtered from the residue, and gradually 
 evaporated to dryness, in order to ex- 
 pel the excess of acid, The residue is 
 dissolved in distilled water, and the 
 solution of gold obtained in this man- 
 ner kept for future use. 
 
 To Prepare Pure Oxalic Acid. Pot- 
 ash lye of 36 Baume is brought to the 
 boiling point in a strmg iron boiler, 
 and sawdust of pine wood added until 
 the mass becomes thick. By continu- 
 ing the heating, and after the water has 
 evaporated, the mass, while being con- 
 stantly stirred, becomes again thiniy 
 fluid, homogeneous, and assumes a tur- 
 meric-yellow color. The heat is kept 
 up for 2 to 2V hours; the fire is then 
 drawn, and the mass allowed to cool 
 off. Water is now slowly poured into 
 the mass while still hot, until the so- 
 lution shows 40 Baume when, after 
 stirring thoroughly, it is allowed to 
 cool off. The yield of oxalate of po- 
 tassium, which is entirely insoluble in 
 the lye of 40 Baume, is considerable. 
 This method of preparing oxalate of 
 potassium is not new, though consider- 
 ably improved, but the following pro- 
 cess of preparing pure oxalic acid from 
 this oxalate of potassium is entirely 
 new : 
 
 The non-crystallized oxalate of po- 
 tassium is washed and dissolved, while 
 hot, in a large quantity of water and, 
 after clarifying, is precipitated with a 
 solution of chloride of magnesium or a 
 solution of sulphate of magnesia. The 
 resulting magnesium oxalate is thor- 
 oughly washed, heated in a wooden vat 
 by introducing steam, and concentrated 
 hydrochloric acid added until it is com- 
 pletely dissolved. The clarified so- 
 lution is drawn hot into a clay vessel, 
 and, when cold, the oxalic acid separates 
 
 in fine white crystals. These should 
 be dried by placing between the ibid.: 
 of absorbent paper. 
 
 To Prepare Purified Oleic Acid. 
 Dissolve tU parts of oil-soap in 240 
 parts of water, compound the solution 
 with 10 parts of sulphuric acid, let it 
 come to a boil, wash the oleic acid with 
 60 parts of hot water, and then intro- 
 duce 4 parts of plumbic oxide. The 
 lead soap, while still hot, is mixed with 
 60 parts of spirit of wine of 0.52 specific 
 gravity, heated to 1.30 F., and the 
 oleate of lead, after settling, is decom- 
 posed with hydrochloric acid, when the 
 oleic acid, which separates, is repeatedly 
 washed with water. 
 
 Cream of Tartar. Digest for several 
 hours 10 parts of purified powdered 
 tartar with 10 of water and 1 of crude 
 hydrochloric acid. Stir the solution 
 frequently, and allow it to stand for one 
 day. Then filter through linen, and 
 wash first with ordinary and then with 
 distilled water, to free the fluid from 
 the hydrochloric acid. The residue is 
 dried and forms the cream of tartar of 
 commerce. 
 
 Lunar Caustic. Dissolve 6 parts of 
 pure silver in 14 of nitric acid, evapor- 
 ate the fluid to dryness at a moderate 
 heat, and melt the residue in a porce- 
 lain vessel. The mass, when cooled off, 
 is dissolved in water and evaporated to 
 dryness with the addition of a drop of 
 nitric acid. The residue is melted and 
 ; run into moulds. 
 
 Pure Acetic Acid. Distil 5 parts of 
 I anhydrous fused sodium acetate with 
 I 6 of pure concentrated sulphuric acid. 
 The distillate is a colorless fluid, boil- 
 ing at 244.4 F., and solidifying, on 
 cooling, into large transparent plate* 
 (glacial acetic acid). 
 
 Sitlphocyanic Acid is prepared for 
 analytical purposes by precipitating 2 
 parts of sugar of lead with 1 of am- 
 monium cyanide, washing the precipi- 
 tate with water, decomposing with sul- 
 phide of hydrogen and filtering. The 
 resulting sulphocyanic acid is freed 
 from the sulphide of hydrogen by in- 
 troducing a current of air, and then di- 
 luted to 1.01 specific gravity. 
 
 Molybdic Acrid from Molybdenum Df- 
 sulphide. Melt in a Hessian, crucible 
 4 parts of potassium nitrate, and add. 
 gradually 1 of molybdenum disulphidu 
 
74 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 finely powdered. The fused mass with 
 the residue remaining in the crucible is 
 dissolved in water, the solution filtered, 
 evaporated to one-tenth of its volume 
 and allowed to crystallize. Crystals 
 of potassium nitrate and sulphate form 
 in a short time, which are removed from 
 the fluid. This is again filtered and 
 compounded with pure nitric acid as 
 long as a snow-white precipitate is ob- 
 tained, but in doing this any excess of 
 nitric acid must be avoided. This pre- 
 cipitate forms the molybdic acid, which 
 is collected upon a filter and dried in 
 the open air. Eight parts of molybde- 
 num disulphide give about 5 parts of 
 molybdic acid. 
 
 Potassium Acetate. Compound 7 
 ounces of pure potassium carbonate 
 with 1 pint of concentrated vinegar, or 
 add such a quantity of vinegar as is 
 necessary for complete saturation. The 
 fluid is filtered, brought into a porcelain 
 vessel and evaporated to dryness over a 
 steam-bath. The salt, while still warm, 
 is placed in a glass vessel, and this is 
 kept closed hermetically. 
 
 To Prepare Sulphate of Copper. The 
 solution much used in electrotyping is 
 prepared by making a saturated solu- 
 tion of blue vitriol in water, and adding 
 8 to 10 per cent, of sulphuric acid to the 
 solution. (W.) 
 
 Liver of Sulphur. Mix 1 pound of 
 purified sulphur with 2 pounds of pure 
 potassium carbonate. Place the mixt- 
 ure in a melting pot, cover it and ap- 
 ply a moderate neat until all effer- 
 vescence ceases, and the mass is changed 
 into a homogeneous fluid. Then pour 
 it upon a sheet-iron plate or marble 
 slab, and, when cool, pulverize it. 
 This has a yellowish green color, and 
 can be completely dissolved in 2 parts 
 of water. 
 
 Schiel's Apparatus for Testing the 
 Percentage oj Nicotine in Tobacco. The 
 apparatus, Fig. 9, consists of two glass 
 flasks with narrow necks connected by 
 a glass tube bent at right angles. 
 
 The tobacco, cut in pieces, is placed 
 in the flask A, standing in a saucer 
 containing cold water, and extracted 
 with ammoniacal ether. By taking 
 after a short time the flask A out of the 
 cold water, placing B in its place, and 
 putting A in a saucer with warm water, 
 the ether vapor which is formed forces 
 
 the solution of nicotine through the 
 tube reaching to the bottom of the flask, 
 and over the end of which is tied a 
 
 Fig. 9. 
 
 small, fine woollen rag, into B. By 
 changing the position of the flasks, so 
 that A stands again in the cold water 
 and B in the warm, the ether is redis- 
 tilled into A, the nicotine remaining in 
 B. By repeating this operation 
 changing the position of the flasks 
 several times the tobacco will be ex- 
 hausted, and the nicotine can be deter- 
 mined by volumetric analysis. Before 
 connecting the tube with the flask B it 
 is advisable to put some ether into the 
 flask and expel the air by the vapor of 
 the ether. The corks are tied in the 
 same manner as champagne corks. 
 Other substances may be also extracted 
 by this simple apparatus. 
 
 Wilson's Process of Preparing Glyc- 
 erine. Palm-oil is placed in a distilling 
 apparatus and high- pressure steam of 
 500 to 600 F. introduced. The palm- 
 oil is decomposed and two layers are 
 obtained in the receiver; one watery, 
 containing the glycerine, and one upon 
 which float the fatty acids. Care must 
 be exercised during this operation that 
 there is a constant supply of steam and 
 that the temperature does not rise too 
 high, as, if this is the case, acrolein may 
 be formed. By concentrating, and, 
 should the product not be entirely col- 
 orless, repeated distillation, the glycer- 
 ine can be obtained pure of 1.26 specific 
 gravity. 
 
 To Restore Faded Manuscripts. I. 
 Prepare a moderately concentrated 
 watery solution of tannin (gallotannie 
 acid) ; apply the solution with a brush, 
 remove the excess by a current of water, 
 and dry the document at a temperature 
 of 150 to 165 F. The writing devel- 
 oped in this manner is clear and very 
 
CLEANSING, POLISHING, AND RENOVATING AGENTS. 75- 
 
 black, remaining so after the lapse of 
 many months. 
 
 II. Add a few drops of ammonium 
 sulphide to clear water and apply the 
 solution to the manuscript, proceeding 
 as above. Both of these formulae are 
 based on the supposition that the ink 
 used on the faded characters was an 
 iron ink, which will commonly be the 
 case. (W.) 
 
 CLEANSING, POLISHING, AND RENO- 
 VATING AGENTS. 
 
 To Remove Ink Stains from Wood. 
 Prepare a mixture of 8 ounces of con- 
 centrated sulphuric acid and If pints 
 of water. Scour the stain thoroughly 
 with water and sand, then pour some 
 of the mixture upon it and rub until the 
 stain has disappeared. 
 
 To Remove Ink and Rust Stains from 
 Clothes. Instead of using oxalic acid, 
 which attacks the fibre of the texture, 
 prepare a mixture of 2 parts of tartar 
 and 1 of powdered alum. This does 
 not injure the clothes; it may also be 
 used for removing other stains. 
 
 To Remove Mildew, Wine, or Fruit 
 Stains from Silk or Linen. Cut 1 
 pound of ordinary good soap into shav- 
 ings and boil them into a stiff paste 
 with rain water. Apply this to the 
 stain and scatter upon it some finely- 
 powdered potash. Then spread the 
 goods upon a grass plat and allow them 
 to remain there for 24 hours. When 
 dry sprinkle some rain water upon the 
 stain and wash, when the stain will 
 have disappeared. 
 
 To Remove Tar, Grease, Oil, and 
 Varnish from Silk. Rub the stain with 
 a white cloth moistened with a mixture 
 of equal parts of oil of turpentine and 
 ether, until no impure matter adheres 
 to it. Cover the stain about the thick- 
 ness of a knife blade with pulverized 
 white bole, upon which place blotting- 
 paper and press a hot iron. Repeat 
 until the stain has disappeared. 
 
 To Remove Ink Stains from Silk. 
 Moisten the stain with strong white 
 wine vinegar and rub some warm beech- 
 wood ashes upon it, and finally wash 
 with soap water. Should 'the color 
 suffer from the vinegar, mix some beef 
 gall and water and wash the stain with it. 
 
 To Remove Wax from Velvet. Lay 
 the velvet upon a table, coyer the stain 
 with a linen cloth soaked in soft water 
 and rub several times with a medium 
 lot iron. The stain will disappear. 
 
 To Remove Grease Stains from Paper. 
 Warm the stained paper, lay blotting- 
 paper upon the grease spot, and press 
 it gently with a hot iron. Or, heat 
 rectified oil of turpentine to the boiling 
 point and cover both sides of the stain 
 until it can no longer be seen. Then 
 dip a small brush in strong spirit of 
 wine and brush the spot several times 
 where the stain has been. This restores 
 the original whiteness of the paper, 
 and, when ironed, gives it smoothness 
 and lustre. 
 
 Scouring Water for Removing Grease 
 Stains. Put 4 parts by weight of recti- 
 fied oil of turpentine, 1 part by weight 
 of anhydrous spirit of wine, and 1 part 
 by weight of ether, free from acid, into 
 a clean, dry bottle ; shake thoroughly 
 and close the bottle hermetically. 
 When the water is to be used, place 
 blotting-paper under the stained places, 
 moisten a cotton rag with the fluid, and 
 rub until the stains have disappeared. 
 Dry the goods in the shade, but exposed 
 to the air. 
 
 One application will be sufficient for 
 fresh stains, but old spots require sev- 
 eral. 
 
 Le Francois' Scouring Fluid, This 
 is prepared from the root and dried 
 leaves of soap- wort, of each 64 parts, clar- 
 ified juice of lemons 45 parts, spirit of 
 wine 185 parts, soft water 1700 parts. 
 The root is coarsely powdered, boiled in 
 the water for i of an hour, the leaves 
 cut fine are added, and the boiling is 
 continued for 24 hours. It is then 
 strained, filtered, and allowed to be- 
 come cold, when the spirit of wine is 
 added. 
 
 The fluid is used either cold or luke- 
 warm by dipping the stained place 
 into it, rubbing it with the hand to a 
 lather when silk goods are to be 
 cleansed, or with a brush for linen or 
 cotton goods. Rinse in clean water and 
 iron nearly dry. 
 
 " Gantein" for Cleansing Gloves. 
 The preparation sold under this name 
 is prepared in the following manner: 
 Dissolve 6 parts of soap in 2 of water. 
 Add 4 parts of bleaching liquor aud i 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 of aqua ammonia. Rub the gloves with the articles with this and finally rub 
 
 with soft blotting-paper. 
 
 2. If the iron is very rusty pour a 
 mixture of 1 part of diluted hydrochlo- 
 
 this fluid until they are clean. 
 
 To Cleanse Glasses and Saucers. 
 Moisten the places to be cleansed with 
 
 concentrated sulphuric acid, scatter j ric acid and 1 of water over it," rub with 
 finely-powdered potassium bichromate it, wash, . dry, brush it with oil, and 
 
 .1 tijji i , i _n . j. _ -|._ j* _ j* -i ' j . . 
 
 upon them, and let the vessel stand in 
 a warm place for several hours. All 
 vessels to which organic substances ad- 
 here can be cleansed in this manner. 
 
 L/g<'t's Polishing Powder for Gold 
 Workers. This powder, used by Bel- 
 gian gold and silversmiths, gives an 
 excellent lustre to the articles. It con- 
 sists of: 
 
 White lead . 
 
 Chalk . . . 
 
 Carbunate of 
 
 magnesia . 
 
 Parts. 
 
 Alumina . 
 Silica . . 
 Ferric oxide 
 
 Parts. 
 
 allow it to lie for a few days. 
 
 then cleansed in the manner indicated 
 
 in No. 1. 
 
 To Cleanse Barrels. Bring a few 
 pounds of unslaked lime into the bar- 
 rel, add water and close it. After a 
 little while add more water and roll 
 the barrel. Then rinse out with clean 
 water. 
 
 Polishing Powder for Glass and 
 Jfctaf. Ferric oxide obtained from fer- 
 | rous oxalate by heating can be recom- 
 mended as an excellent polishing agent 
 for lenses of optical instruments, metals, 
 etc. 
 
 To Cleanse Straw Hats. Straw hats, 
 not very yellow, are first rubbed with 
 
 glass vessels from rosins and ethereal flowers of sulphur and a cloth moist- 
 oils. Pour a small quantity of alcohol ened with whiskey. When dry they 
 into the vessel, swing it to and fro to ; are brushed and coated on the wrong 
 moisten the inner surfaces, put in the side with gum water, 
 animal charcoal, add water, and shake 
 thoroughly. 
 
 To Cleanse Manilla Indigo. 
 
 To Cleanse Glass Vessels. Animal 
 charcoal is the best agent for cleansing 
 
 Pulver- 
 ize the indigo and make it into a paste 
 with water, upon which gradually 
 pour hydrochloric acid until the effer- 
 vescence ceases. Allow the mass to 
 settle, filter, and wash the precipitate 
 several times with pure or alkaline hot 
 water ; then press and dry. 
 
 To Cleanse Files. Pour a few drops 
 of benzole upon a scratch brush, or 
 upon the file, and remove the accumu- 
 lated impurities by brushing. 
 
 To Cleanse Paint Brushes front 
 Dried'in Paint. Suspend the brush in 
 a tumbler containing a solution of 1 
 part of crystallized sodium carbonate in 
 3 of water, in such a manner that it 
 hangs several inches from the bottom 
 of the tumbler. Let it stand from 12 to 
 24 hours in a moderately warm place 
 (140 to 150 P.). The dried paint will 
 be softened so much that it can be I 
 
 Very yellow straw hats are cleansed 
 by making a lather of fine French snap 
 upon a flannel rag moistened with luke- 
 warm water. This is applied to the hat, 
 and the latter rubbed with it until all 
 dirt has been removed. The hat is then 
 rinsed off' with clean water, wiped off 
 with a clean cloth, and sulphured, 
 which can generally be done in a quarter 
 of an hour. It is then covered with a 
 sheet of fine paper and pressed. 
 
 Excellent Semiring Soap. Dissolve 
 4J ounces of Castile soap in spirit of 
 wine, add the yolks of 4 eggs and 4 
 fluid drachms of oil of turpentine. 
 
 Scouring Soap for Winecvd Vinegar 
 Stains, Mix 2 ounces of white soap, 
 1 fluid drachm of oil of turpentine, and 
 25 grains of sal-ammoniac. 
 
 Scouring Soap for Cotton and Silk 
 Goods. Mix 1 pound of ordinary soap, 
 Jr pound of beef-gall, and 12 ounces 
 Venetian turpentine. 
 
 Jj/ftck Scouring Soap for Removing 
 
 easily washed out with soap and water. I Stains from Silk, Cloth, and Hats. Cut 
 Brushes which have become as hard as ; ^ ounce of Venetian soap into fine 
 stone can be restored by this process. 
 
 To Cleanse Fine Steel and Iron A rti- 
 cles from Rust. 1. Mix 10 parts of tin 
 putty, 8 of prepared buck's horn, and 
 
 25 oi spirit of wine to a paste. Cleanse ! 
 
 soap 
 
 shavings, moisten them with fresh rain 
 water, and add 10 to 12 drops of oil of 
 tartar. The mass is intimately kneaded 
 together and formed into balls. 
 
 Green Scouring Soap. Knead 2$ 
 
CLEANSING, POLISHING, AND RENOVATING AGENTS. 77 
 
 ounces of Venetian soap into a dough 
 with the hand, add 20 grains of pow- 
 dered verdigris, the same quantity of 
 cream of tartar, and finally 15 drops of 
 filtered lemon juice. Mix the ingredi- 
 ents intimately together, form balls 
 from the mass, and allow them to dry 
 at a moderate temperature. 
 
 The stains are moistened with water, 
 rubbed with the soap-ball, and when 
 the spots are again dry are washed with 
 soft water. The process must be re- 
 peated twice or three times, and the 
 goods rubbed with the nap with a linen 
 cloth. 
 
 Brown Scouring Soap. Cut 2 ounces 
 of Venetian soap into shavings, moisten 
 them with a little water, and work the 
 mass into a dough with the hand. Then 
 add 20 grains of powdered white vitriol, 
 the same quantity of powdered red 
 bole, 7 grains of lampblick, and 10 
 drops of spirit of sal-ammoniac. Form 
 the mass in balls of the desired size, 
 and dry them at a moderate heat. 
 
 To remove stains the soap is used in 
 the same manner as the foregoing. 
 
 To Purify Bisulphide of C'-irbon. 
 This can be conveniently and quickly 
 done by the following process : Cover 
 the bisulphide of carbon with water 
 and add gradually small quantities of 
 concentrated solution of potassium per- 
 manganate. Shake every time after 
 adding the solution. If the water j 
 standing over the bisulphide of carbon 
 retains a violet color, no more potassium 
 permanganate is added. Wash now 
 with water until the potassium salt has 
 been removed, separate the bisulphide 
 of carbon from .the water by decanta- 
 tiou or other means, and filter it. 
 
 /' 'i.<'iiitff Powder for Plate-glass, 
 jfi> -. etc. Calcined magnesia is 
 moistened with pure benzine, so as to 
 form a paste sufficiently wet, that, when 
 pressed, a drop will exude from it. 
 Pure benzine being very volatile (it j 
 boils at 177.8 F.) the mixture must be i 
 kept in glass bottles with ground stop- 1 
 pers. The articles are cleansed by tak- 
 ing some of the mixture upon raw cot- 
 ton and rubbing. 
 
 PnlixhiiKj Runs for Metals (called 
 "Serviette Magiqn.e"). These consist | 
 of calico prepared with Castile soap and 
 rotten stone and dyed with a solution 
 of coralline in alcohol. 
 
 English Polishing Paste far Metals. 
 Take finely-powdered rotten stone, sift 
 it through muslin or a hair sieve, and 
 knead with a sufficient quantity of soft 
 soap to form a stiff paste. To i pound 
 of this mass add 1$ fluid ounces of oil 
 of turpentine. Put in boxes or form 
 into balls, which soon become hard. 
 
 The articles to be polished must be 
 entirely free from grease and dirt. 
 Moisten some of the paste with water, 
 apply it to the metal, and rub with a 
 dry rag, when a beautiful lustre will be 
 the result. This is well adapted for 
 household purposes. 
 
 French Polishing for Metals. Mix 1 
 part of washed ferric oxide with 50 
 parts of magnesium carbonate. Moisten 
 a rag with water or alcohol, dip it into 
 the powder, rub the articles thoroughly, 
 and dry them with soft leather. 
 
 Polishing Paste for Metal, Glass, etc. 
 Mix 1 part of olive oil, 1 of spirit of sal- 
 ammoniac, 2 of lime, and 1 of water to 
 a thick paste. 
 
 Wabeck's Polishing Wax. Melt 4 
 parts of yellow wax and 1 of rosin ; 
 stir the mass vigorously, and when 
 taken from the fire stir in 2 parts of the 
 best oil of turpentine. Pour the mass 
 into moulds. Apply a little of it on a 
 woollen rag and rub the wood, furni- 
 ture, etc. 
 
 Fine Jewellers' Rouge. Saturate a 
 solution of sulphate of iron (green 
 vitriol) with a solution of oxalic acid. 
 Filter and dry the resulting precipitate 
 of pale-yellow oxalate of iron; place it 
 in an iron dish and expose it to a 
 moderate heat, whereby the oxalic acid 
 will be decomposed and expelled, and 
 a pure sesquioxide of iron will be left. 
 This is very fine and can be used for 
 producing a very brilliant polish upon 
 the finest jewellers' work. 
 
 To Remove Stains from Books. A 
 solution of oxalic acid, citric acid, or 
 tartaric acid may be used without 
 danger, as these acids do not attack 
 printing ink, but will remove marginal 
 notes in writing ink, stains, etc. 
 
 To Free Paper from Fatty Substances. 
 Photographic paper can be cleansed 
 from all impurities by the following 
 treatment: Dissolve 1 part of nitric 
 acid in 20 of distilled water, pour the 
 solution into an earthen dish, and soak 
 the sheets of paper for 1 hour in the 
 
78 
 
 TECIINO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 fluid, when they are placed in water 
 made alkaline with 5 per cent, of am- 
 monia, and are finally washed in pure 
 water and dried. 
 
 To Cleanse Gloves without Wetting 
 Them. Put the gloves upon a clean 
 board, make a mixture of dried fuller's 
 earth and pulverized alum, and apply 
 the powder to both sides of the glove 
 with an ordinary stiff brush. Then 
 wipe the powder off, cover the glove 
 with dry bran and brush this off. The 
 
 gloves, if not very badly soiled, will, 
 y this process, become entirely clean. 
 Should there be grease stains, remove 
 them with crumbs of toasted bread and 
 powdered animal charcoal, and then 
 rub the glove with a clean woollen rag 
 dipped into the powder of fuller's earth 
 and alum. 
 
 To Cleanse Tea and Coffee Trays. 
 Do not pour hot water upon them, 
 especially if they are lacquered, but 
 wipe them with a sponge dipped into 
 tepid water, and then rub with a cloth. 
 Should they have a smeary appearance 
 dust a little flour over them, and then 
 rub them with a dry cloth. 
 
 To Cleanse Marble Jlusts. First 
 free them from all dust, and then 
 wash them with very weak hydro- 
 chloric acid. Soap injures the color of 
 the marble. 
 
 To Cleanse Alabaster. Rub the ala- 
 baster carefully with shave-grass, and 
 then with Venetian soap and chalk, 
 stirred into a paste with water. 
 
 To Cleanse Precious Stones. Apply 
 precipitated sulphur moistened with 
 spirit of wine, and rub with a very soft 
 brush. 
 
 To Cleanse and Beautify Old Oak 
 Furniture. I. Wash the furniture, in 
 case it has any grease stains, with warm 
 beer. 
 
 II. Boil wax and sugar in beer and 
 rub the furniture with this by means of 
 a brush. When dry rub until the 
 article shows the desired lustre. 
 
 J3rass is cleansed by rubbing it with 
 spirits of ammonia and vinegar, and 
 then with blotting-paper soaked in spirit 
 of wine. 
 
 Silver is cleansed by placing the arti- 
 cles for a few minutes in a boiling hot 
 solution of tartar, and then rubbing 
 them with soft leather. 
 
 Polishing Powder Jor /Silver-ware, etc. 
 
 Mix intimately 4 parts of washed pipe- 
 clay, and 1 of purified tartar. 
 
 Gold is cleansed with Paris red and 
 soft leather. 
 
 To Polish Slate (Magnus' Patent). 
 Mix intimately 7 parts of linseed oil, 1 
 of ground ochre, 3 of tar oil, and 1 of 
 asphaltum. Apply the mixture to the 
 surface of the slate by means of a brush, 
 then submit the article to a heat of 
 about 200 F., when it is cooled off 
 and polished with pumice stone and 
 tripoli. 
 
 COLORED CHALKS (CRAYONS), PEN- 
 CILS, AND INKS FOR MARKING 
 LINEN, ETC. 
 
 Colored chalks (crayons), besides 
 beauty of color, must possess a certain 
 degree of solidity, i. e., they must be 
 neither too hard nor too soft. 
 
 In choosing the white or ground body 
 the chemical nature of the coloring sub- 
 stances to be mixed with it must be 
 taken into consideration. For instance, 
 Paris and Berlin blue, lakes, chrome 
 yellow, etc., must not be mixed with 
 chalk, as this would injure the color. 
 
 Plaster of Paris, alabaster, alumina, 
 and chalk are most suitable for the 
 white ground mass. White lead, zinc 
 white, bones burned white, and pearl 
 white may also be used, but as a general 
 rule are too expensive. 
 
 Oil, wax. and fats serve as agglu- 
 tinants. The finished and dried chalks 
 are dipped in oil, by which they become 
 softer and color better. 
 
 Gum tragacanth is much used as an 
 agglutinant. Soap water is used for 
 many colors, as also yeast from beer 
 which has not been hopped. Glue and 
 gum are best for cinnabar ; and, for pig- 
 ments which become hard in drying, 
 oatmeal gruel. 
 
 The pigments are made into a paste 
 with water and divided into three equal 
 portions. The first portion is mixed 
 with agglutmants for finest crayons. 
 The second portion is mixed with white 
 substances for lighter colors, and the 
 third mixed with other desired pig- 
 ments. 
 
 Small boards covered with 5 or 6 
 sheets of waste paper, and on the top 
 of this a sheet of white printing paper, 
 
COLORED CHALKS, PENCILS, ETC. 
 
 we used in making chalks from the 
 first portion of the pigment. The pro- 
 cess is as follows : The ground pigment 
 is spread upon the board, and, as the 
 paper with which this is covered ab- 
 sorbs much of the moisture, it will 
 acquire considerable consistency. When 
 it has become sufficiently dry to allow 
 of it being treated with the hand with- 
 out sticking, a piece of the size of a 
 hazel-nut is formed into a ball and 
 rolled out between the hands into a 
 cylinder pointed on both ends. The 
 cylinder is then rolled between smooth 
 boards to make the surface smooth and 
 even. It is then laid upon another 
 board, covered with paper, and dried in 
 the shade. 
 
 The second portion is nibbed with 
 half the quantity of a white body and 
 formed into cylinders of a lighter color. 
 
 The last part of the pigment is used 
 for mixing with other colors. 
 
 Blue Chalks. Paris blue gives the 
 dark shades. To prevent the chalks 
 from becoming too hard the following 
 process is used : Paris blue, finely pul- 
 verized, is treated with concentrated 
 sulphuric acid, which decolorizes it. 
 Washing it in water restores the color 
 and deposits a fine sediment, which is 
 mixed with equal parts of alumina and 
 calcareous earth. 
 
 Cobalt Blue and Nurnberg Ultra- 
 marine give excellent crayons. 
 
 Brown Crayons. Brown ochre with 
 lampblack, terra japonica, umber with 
 chalk, liquid gum and beer yeast, etc. 
 
 Crimson Crayons. 1. These are pre- 
 pared from madder lake, round lake, 
 and alumina, with beer yeast, oatmeal 
 gruel, milk, or gum water as agglu- 
 tinants. 2. Mix 4 parts of chalk with 
 1 of calcareous earth, and color with a 
 decoction of cochineal and alum. Very 
 beautiful crayons are manufactured 
 from 2 parts of scarlet ochre and 1 of 
 carmine mixed together with milk, oat- 
 meal gruel, and gum tragacanth. Car- 
 mine and pearl white also furnish very 
 fine crayons. Ordinary crayons are 
 prepared from red chalk, red bole, col- 
 cothar, etc. 
 
 Yellow Crayons. Yellow ochre, 
 chrome yellow, or turpeth mineral are 
 used, either by themselves or rubbed 
 with chalk and mixed with gum water 
 or beer yeast. 
 
 Green Crayons are prepared from 
 green earth (mountain green) with 
 chalk and beer yeast; or mixtures of 
 Berlin blue and chrome yellow, or yel- 
 low lake and Sehvveiniurt green, or 
 green ultramarine. 
 
 Red Crayons. Red crayons are made 
 from cinnabar, red lead, and beer yeast. 
 The ingredients are boiled until a vis- 
 cous mass has been formed; then add 
 gum tragacauth. 
 
 Black Crayons. These are prepared 
 from willow-wood charcoal, finest qual- 
 ity of lampblack or boneblack, with an 
 addition of a small quantity of Paris 
 blue and an agglutinant. 
 
 White Crayons. Pure white chalk 
 is cut into crayons, or they are made 
 from white lead, zinc white, or zinc 
 oxide stirred into a dough with milk. 
 
 Pencils for Writing Upon Glass. 
 Melt in a saucer: 
 
 Spermaceti 4 parts. 
 
 Tallow 3 " 
 
 Wax 2 " 
 
 Add to this, with constant stirring-: 
 
 Red lead 6 parts. 
 
 Potash Ipart. 
 
 Continue to heat the mass for half an 
 hour and then pour it into small glass 
 tubes the size of a lead-pencil. When 
 the compound has become cold it is 
 forced into small wooden tubes and 
 sharpened with a knife. 
 
 Pencils for Marking lAnen. Eight 
 parts of alumina are thoroughly dried 
 and mixed with 2 parts of very finely 
 powdered pyrolusite. Add to these a 
 solution of 3 parts of nitrate of silver in 
 5 of distilled water, and mix the mass 
 intimately bv rubbing and kneading. 
 Pencils are formed from this mass and 
 dried, and used for marking linen, 
 either in this form or enclosed in wood 
 like a pencil. 
 
 The alumina is prepared by precip- 
 itating a solution of alum with ammo- 
 nia. But pure clay may also be used 
 instead of alumina. 
 
 Marking Ink for Linen. To use this 
 ink it is necessary to soak the linen 
 with a fluid consisting of 1 part of 
 sodium hypophosphite, 2 of gum Arabic, 
 and 16 of distilled water. When the 
 linen is dry it is smoothed and marked 
 with an ink consisting of 1 part of silver 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 nitrate, 6 of gum mucilage, and 6 of 
 distilled water. 
 
 J\ T ew Marking Ink. An excellent 
 marking ink can be obtained from the 
 anacardium nut (Anacurdium orient- 
 ale). The juice contains an oily matter 
 which becomes black on exposure to 
 the air, is proof against all known de- 
 tergents; decolorizes acids, alkalies, 
 cyanide of potassium, and chlorine. 
 If linen is marked with this natural 
 ink and then moistened with a little 
 ammonia, the black becomes very in- 
 tense and is perfectly permanent. 
 
 Red Indelible Marking Ink. Equal 
 parts of green vitriol and cinnabar are 
 powdered as fine as possible, bolted, 
 carefully mixed with good linseed oil, 
 and finally strained through a cloth. 
 The resulting thickish fluid is used for 
 marking. It is best to do this with a 
 quill. 
 
 Brown Indelible Ink. Brush the 
 linen with a solution of 2 parts of yel- 
 low prussiate of potash and 3 of gum 
 Arabic in 12 parts of water. When dry 
 mark it with a mixture of equal parts 
 of mangauous hydrate and water. 
 
 Blue Indelible Ink. Mix together: 
 
 Sesquioxide of molybdenum . . 5 parts. 
 
 Oxalic acid 6 " 
 
 Gum Arabic 6 " 
 
 Powdered licorice 2 " 
 
 "Water 9 ounces. 
 
 Mark the linen with this and moisten 
 the writing with solution of tin salt. 
 
 Black Indelible Ink. Mix together 
 2.5 parts of lunar caustic and a like 
 quantity of tartar with 10 parts ofj 
 spirits of sal-ammoniac, and add to the 
 mixture a solution of 0.6 part of sugar, 
 1 of gum Arabic, and 0.1 of lampblack 
 in 10 of water. 
 
 No. 2. Dissolve 5 parts of lunar 
 caustic in 10 of spirit of sal-ammoniac. 
 Add to the solution 7 parts of pure soda, 
 5 of gum Arabic, and 12 of water. 
 
 No. 3. Dissolve 1.7 parts of chloride 
 of copper, 2.1 of sodium chlorate, and 
 1.1 of sal-ammoniac in 12 of water. 
 Next dissolve 24 parts of aniline hydro- 
 chlorate in 40 of water, and add to this 
 24 parts of gum mucilage and 12 of 
 glycerine. When the ink is to be used 
 1 part of the first solution is mixed 
 with 4 of the second. 
 
 Blue Stamp Color. Bleu de Lyons ) 
 
 is dissolved with the aid of gentle heat 
 1 in concentrated glycerine, some of 
 Theuard's blue added, and the liquid 
 thickened with finely -powdered gum 
 Arabic. 
 
 CONFECTIONERY. 
 
 The sugar used in the manufacture 
 of all kinds of confectionery must be 
 boiled until it "breaks;" that mesins 
 until a sample, when taken from the 
 boiler and dropped on a plate of glass, 
 breaks off when cold. 
 
 To Prepare Elaeosaccftarum, or Oil 
 Sugar. This is generally prepared by 
 thoroughly mixing in a porcelain nicr- 
 tar i ounce of sugar with 12 drops of 
 any ethereal oil ; for instance, the oil 
 of anise seed, lemon, fennel, pepper- 
 mint, etc. 
 
 Malt Sugar. Boil for half an hour 
 over a moderate fire, 2 pounds of brown 
 sugar and 2 pounds of sugar-house mo- 
 lasses; then add If ounces of extract of 
 malt and 60 drops of tincture of vanilla. 
 Allow the mixture to boil up once more, 
 and then pour it, while in a liquid 
 state, upon a marble slab, mixed with 
 a moderate quantity of oil of almonds. 
 When half cold the sugar is cut into 
 strips and these twisted into spirals. 
 
 Orange Sugar. Dissolve 2 ounces of 
 tartaric acid or citric acid in 12J ounces 
 of fresh orange iuice, and drop the so- 
 lution upon a sugar-loaf weighing 10 
 pounds placed with the pointed end 
 downward. The sugar-loaf is left in 
 this position until the solution has 
 soaked through to the pointed end, 
 which can be easily recognized by the 
 darker color of the moistened places. 
 This simple method of impregnation 
 can of course be also used for the prep- 
 aration of many varieties of finely 
 flavored sugars, for instance vanilla, 
 rose, strawberry sugar, etc., by employ- 
 ing either waterv or alcoholic extracts 
 of spicy substances or solutions of 
 ethereal oils in spirit of wine. 
 
 Pectoral Troche?, prepared according 
 to the following receipt, can be highly 
 recommended : Mix J ounce of sal-am- 
 moniac, 80 grammes (2f ounces) of pul- 
 verized licorice, 1 ounce of sugar, 30 
 grains of gum tragacanth, and li fluid 
 drachms of glycerine, with a sufficient 
 quantity of water to form a paste. Eoll 
 
SWEETMEATS (CONSERVES). 
 
 81 
 
 this upon a marble slab rubbed with 
 oil into tablets i to i inch thick, cut 
 tiiesa into rhombic troches froin i to i 
 inch square, and allow them to dry. 
 If desired the troches can be wrapped 
 in silver foil. Confections are now 
 wrapped in a glycerine paper or paraf- 
 fined paper. They should be kept in 
 tin boxes. 
 
 Pectoral Bon-bons. Take 2 parts of 
 Iceland moss, 2 of common red poppy 
 flowers, 2 of endive, and 1 of marsh 
 mallow, and boil them once up in water. 
 Let the decoction stand for half an hour ; 
 then press it out, and boil it to a cara- 
 mel with 90 parts of sugar ; then it is 
 treated in the same manner as other 
 bon-bons. 
 
 Raspberry Bon-bons. Take 3 table- 
 spoonfuls of juice of preserved rasp- 
 berries, then boil about 2 pounds of 
 sugar until it " breaks," pour the juice 
 and 4 drops of essence of raspberry into 
 it, and let it boil up once more. 
 
 Carrot Bon-bons. Scrape 4 large 
 carrots, grate them, and strain through 
 a cloth. The juice pressed out is added 
 to 2 pounds of sugar and boiled to cara- 
 mel. 
 
 Cream Bon-bons. Boil 3 pounds of 
 sugar until it "breaks," and then add 1 
 cupful of good cream. Let the sugar 
 boil up repeatedly, and add 2 drops of 
 fine oil of cinnamon. 
 
 31 dt Bon-bons. Boil 1 pound of 
 roasted barley malt with 1 pounds of 
 water until it is reduced to half the 
 quantity ; strain the infusion, andclarify 
 with it 1 pound of sugar boiled until it 
 " breaks." Then pour it upon a mar- 
 ble slab rubbed with olive oil or un- 
 salted butter, and, before it becomes 
 cold, cut it with a knife into square 
 pieces. 
 
 Cream Walnuts. Take the white of 
 1 egg, stir into it powdered sugar to 
 make it stiff enough to handle, and 
 flavor with vanilla. Dip the walnuts 
 into a syrup made of two tablespoon- 
 fills of sugar and 1 of water, boiled for 
 3 or 4 minutes. The cream must be 
 moulded between the fingers, and then 
 placed between the two halves of a wal- 
 nut. To make chocolate cream walnuts, 
 stir 2 tablespoonfuls of dissolved choco- 
 late into the cream. 
 
 To Prepare Bon-bons of Caramel 
 Sugar with Soft Filling. Pour the 
 6 
 
 melted caramel sugar upon a marble 
 slab and place the filling upon it. 
 Then fold the sugar over the filling and 
 join the two sides by pressi ng. A pack- 
 age is formed which, by drawing out, i.v- 
 made into a roll. This is placed at oner 
 upon the board A (Fig. 10), covered 
 
 tttt 
 
 n~D 
 
 Fig. 10. 
 
 with steel plates e. Then the board B, 
 covered with steel plates e' analogous 
 to e, is vigorously pressed against A, by 
 which the roll is divided into bon-bons, 
 which, shortly after the pressing, are 
 broken apart. 
 
 SWEETMEATS (CONSERVES). 
 
 Chocolate Sweetmeat. Boil 2 pounds 
 of sugar. Then rub 4i ounces of va- 
 nilla chocolate, put it into a small ves- 
 sel, sprinkle some of the boiled sugar 
 over it, stir them thoroughly together, 
 and add to the other sugar, mixing 
 thoroughly with it. The mass is done 
 as soon as a crust is formed on the sur- 
 face of the sugar, or when no bubbles 
 arise ; a ladleful of sugar is then taket 
 from the boiler and allowed to flow 
 back into the mass. It is then poured 
 into capsules about of an inch deep. 
 The mass after having been allowed 
 to cool for a short time is marked off 
 with a knife into sticks about A inch 
 wide, and when entirely cold the cap- 
 sules are turned over and moistened 
 with a sponge, when the paper will be 
 easily detached. 
 
 Orange Sweetmeat. Two pounds of 
 sugar and 2 oranges. Treat in the 
 same manner as above. 
 
 Another Receipt. Bring 2 pounds of 
 pulverized loaf-sugar into a scoop, pour 
 orange-blossom water over it, and stir 
 
82 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 to a thick paste. Place this over a 
 moderate coal-fire and, with constant 
 stirring, make it quite hot, but do not 
 allow it to boil. Then pour the mass 
 into paper capsules and mark it into 
 square or oblong pieces. 
 
 Orange- Jf/ossotii Sweetmeat. Clear 
 and boil 3 pounds of loaf-sugar, add a 
 good handful of selected orange blos- 
 soms somewhat cut up, and let it boil 
 up once. When the sugar has settled, 
 rub it with the ladle on the edge of the 
 boiler until it becomes white; scrape 
 this white sugar from the edge, stir it 
 up with the rest of the sugar, and con- 
 tinue this operation until all the sugar 
 is white and thickish, but not more so 
 than that it can be conveniently poured 
 out. It is then poured into capsules of 
 paper and treated as above. 
 
 llose Sweetmeat. Convert powdered 
 sugar into a thick mass by adding rose- 
 water; dilute a little carmine or cochi- 
 neal with rose-water, and add a sufficient 
 quantity of it to give a rose-eolor to the 
 mass. The further treatment is the 
 same as above. 
 
 Jasmine Sweetmeat is prepared in the 
 same manner as rose sweetmeat, with 
 the exception that no color is used, and 
 distilled jasmine water instead of rose- 
 water. 
 
 Carnation Sweetmeat. Take the flow- 
 ers of dark red carnation, which gener- 
 ally have a strong odor, and place them 
 with a few cloves or some essence of 
 cloves in a tin box. Pour sufficient 
 hot water over them to cover the leaves, 
 close the box with a cover, and let it 
 stand on a warm stove for 6 to 8 hours. 
 Then press the contents through a nap- 
 kin, and proceed in the same manner 
 as given for orange-blossom sweetmeat. 
 If essence of cloves is used it is added 
 after the carnations have been pressed. 
 
 Vanilla Sweetmea t. Pound 2 vanilla 
 beans into small pieces and place them 
 in a tin box or earthen pot. Now pour 
 I pint of hot water over them, close 
 the box as tight as possible, and let it 
 stand over night. Then strain the con- 
 tents through a napkin, add 2 pounds 
 of loaf-sugar, and proceed as above. 
 
 Filbert Sweetmeat. Pound 4 ounces 
 of peeled filbert kernels with sufficient 
 water to prevent them from becoming 
 oily ; boil 1 pound of sugar, stir the 
 nuts into it gradually, so as to prevent 
 
 their lumping together, and pour the 
 mass into paper capsules ; after cooling 
 make it into strips and remove the 
 paper. 
 
 Heliotrope Sweetmeat. Pottr a cup 
 of boiling water over a handful of 
 rinsed heliotrope blossoms placed in an 
 earthen pot. Close the pot tight, and 
 let it stand for 2 hours in a moderately 
 warm place. Strain the liquor of the 
 heliotrope blossoms over pulverized 
 sugar, and add a few drops of lemon 
 juice and enough water to make a 
 medium thick paste, and proceed as 
 above. 
 
 Angelica Sweetmeat. Cut the young 
 stems and shoots of angelica into finger- 
 lengths and powder them in a mortar, 
 and pass through a fine sieve. Flavor 
 pulverized sugar with the angelica pow- 
 der, and add water to make a medium 
 thick paste, and treat as above. 
 
 Another Receipt. Put pulverized 
 loaf-sugar in a pan, add a few table- 
 spoonfuls of angelica seeds and form the 
 mixture into a thin paste. For the rest 
 proceed as above. 
 
 Lemon Sweetmeat. Mix pulverized 
 loaf-sugar with a sufficient quantity of 
 lemon juice to form a stiff paste, and 
 proceed as above. 
 
 Another Receipt. Rub 2 to 3 lemons 
 with 2 pounds of sugar, boil this, and 
 treat the mass as above. 
 
 Cinnamon Sweetmeat. Boil 2 pounds 
 of sugar, add powdered cinnamon; stir 
 in the sugar uniformly in the manner 
 indicated above, until *it forms a quite 
 thick mass, and then pour it out. 
 
 Cherry Sweetmeat. Pulverize 2 
 pounds of sugar, add sufficient fresh 
 cherry juice to form a thick mass, and 
 make it hot without allowing it to boil, 
 stirring constantly in the meanwhile ; 
 then pour the mass out, and, when 
 cooled off somewhat, mark it with a 
 pointed knife into sticks about half an 
 inch wide. 
 
 Peppermint Sweetmeat. Pulverize 2 
 pounds of loaf-sugar, stir it with water 
 to a thick paste, and heat this over a 
 gentle coal fire, stirring it constantly. 
 When hot, take it from the fire, add 6 
 drops of oil of peppermint, stir it up 
 several times, then pour it out and 
 mark it into oblong sticks. 
 
 Love Sweetmeat. Pulverize 3 pounds 
 of loaf-sugar, 2 ounces of ginger, | ounce 
 
MEDICINAL SWEETMEATS. 
 
 83 
 
 of oriental saffron, 4J grains of musk, 
 H grains of ambergris, 7J grains of 
 cloves, and a like quantity of cubebs. 
 Then put 1 ounce of apricots in a glass, 
 pour boiling water over them and let 
 it stand for 3 hours, then strain it through 
 a cloth, and add to the liquor 3 grains 
 of tincture of mastic. With this mix- 
 ture stir the ingredients given above 
 into a thick paste. 
 
 Sweet-Smelling Sweetmeat. Mix 2 
 pounds of pulverized sugar with 10 
 drops of essence of mignonette, 10 drops 
 of essence of tuberose, 10 drops of 
 essence of jasmine, 4 drops of essence 
 of ambergris, and 4 drops of essence of 
 musk. Stir this mixture into a paste 
 with orange-blossom water and pour it 
 out. 
 
 Violet Sweetmeat. Pour 1 pound of 
 boiling water over a handful of cleansed 
 violet leaves in a porcelain pot, which 
 close tight and let it stand in a warm 
 place over night. Then filter and pour 
 the filtrate upon 2 pounds of pulverized 
 sugar, and proceed as above. 
 
 All these sweetmeats are poured into 
 paper capsules and marked in sticks 
 with a pointed knife, as indicated 
 above, or are dropped in round drops 
 upon metal plates. 
 
 MEDICINAL SWEETMEATS. 
 
 Spoonwort (Scurvy Grass) Sweetmeat. 
 Convert 1 part of fresh spoonwort into 
 paste by rubbing it with a wooden 
 pestle in a marble mortar, and then 
 work 2 parts of sugar into it. 
 
 Water Cress Sweetmeat. 1 part of 
 fresh leaves of water cress and 2 parts 
 of white sugar. The manner of prep- 
 aration is the same as above. 
 
 Antiscorbutic Sweetmettf. Take equal 
 parts of spoonwort, water cress, leaves 
 of feverfew, juice of Spanish radish, 
 juice of oranges, add the necessary 
 quantity of pulverized sugar, and pro- 
 ceed as above. 
 
 Crdme du Caf6. One ounce of 
 roasted Mocha coffee is made into cof- 
 fee in the ordinary manner with pint 
 of boiling water, and poured upon 3 
 pounds of boiling sugar. Then add 2 
 cupfuls of rich cream, and boil the 
 sugar to caramel. Now add 2 ounces 
 of fresh butter, let the mass boil up 
 
 several times, and then treat it in the 
 same manner as other bon-bons. 
 
 Ore-me du Chocolade. Boil 3 pounds 
 of sugar and add 1 cupful of ordinary 
 boiled chocolate. Then add 1 cup- 
 ful of rich cream, boil the sugar to 
 caramel, and add 2 ounces of fresh 
 butter. Let the mass boil up several 
 times, and then treat it in the same 
 manner as other bon-bons. 
 
 Coated Filberts. Remove carefully 
 the kernels of large filberts from the -, 
 shells, put them on small wooden sticks, 
 dip them into caramel sugar, and then 
 treat them in the same manner as other 
 filled bon-bons. 
 
 Roasted Almonds. Boil 1J pounds 
 of sugar with pint of water until it 
 draws threads. Then add 1 pound of 
 selected almonds, and stir the mixture 
 over the fire until the almonds begin 
 to crack. Now take the boiler from 
 the fire, and stir until the sugar becomes 
 white and mealy, then pour it out upon 
 a metal plate and pick out the almonds. 
 The remaining sugar is put back into 
 the boiler, stirred with water into a thin 
 paste, and a trifle of cinnamon and a 
 few drops of cochineal are added. 
 Then boil the sugar, pour the almonds 
 into it and stir them quickly, so that all 
 become coated with the sugar, when 
 they are poured out upon a metal plate 
 and allowed to cool. 
 
 Jtwisted Filberts. The kernels of 
 large filberts are carefully taken from 
 the shell. Two pounds of sugar are 
 added to 2 pounds of kernels, and they 
 are then treated in the same manner as 
 given for roasted almonds. 
 
 Coated Chestnuts. Make an incision 
 with a penknife into the shell of the 
 chestnuts, and roast them in an oven 
 until they begin to crack and the shell 
 becomes detached. The chestnuts are 
 then taken out, shelled, put on small 
 wooden sticks, and dipped into hot 
 sugar, and turned around in the hand 
 for a few minutes until they are entirely 
 cold. They are then placed upon a 
 clean metal plate, the sticks are taken 
 out and the chestnuts wrapped in 
 paper. 
 
 Candied Cherries. Brain preserved 
 cherries through a strainer, and place 
 them for 2 days in a drying oven, when 
 two of them are placed on a wooden 
 stick and dipped in hot sugar caramel. 
 
84 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 and worked for a few minutes in the 
 hand and laid upon metal plates. The 
 sticks are removed and the candied cher- 
 ries wrapped in white paper. The same 
 directions hold good for all other fruits, 
 such as apricots, nuts, peaches, etc., 
 with the exception that these are put 
 singly on the wooden sticks. 
 
 Glazed Almonds. Boil 1 pound of 
 sugar. Then place 1 pound of small 
 selected almonds in the sugar, and boil 
 until the latter is mealy, when the 
 boiler is taken from the tire, its contents 
 poured upon a metallic sheet, and the 
 almonds are picked out. The remain- 
 ing sugar is brought back into the 
 boiler, stirred into a thin paste with 
 water, and boiled until it draws threads, 
 when the boiler is taken from the fire. 
 Now pour the almonds into the sugar, 
 stir them quickly, and, before the sugar 
 congeals, pour them back upon the 
 metal plate, so that they lie flat and at 
 some distance from each other. Put 
 the plate for a few minutes into a hot 
 oven, and then for C hours in the dry- 
 ing oven. 
 
 Coated Orange Blossoms. Place 8| 
 ounces of dried orange blossoms, 4 
 pounds of sugar, and i pint of water on 
 the fire, and for the rest treat in the 
 same manner as given for roasted al- 
 monds. 
 
 Candied Oranges. Peel the oranges 
 down to the fine white skin and then 
 divide them carefully in 8 or more 
 parts, so that the separate parts remain 
 uninjured and the juice does not escape. 
 Then put them on small wooden sticks, 
 dip into caramel sugar, place them 
 upon a metal plate, and when cold re- 
 move the sticks. 
 
 Peppermint Drops. Stir 2 pounds 
 of pulverized sugar into a stiff paste, 
 with very little water, and then dis- 
 solve it in a well-tinned copper pan pro- 
 vided with a spout and a handle. Stir 
 constantly, and let it become hot with- 
 out boiling. Then add a few drops of 
 oil of peppermint and pour small drops 
 from the spout of the pan upon a well- 
 oiled metal plate. Should the mass in 
 pouring out prove too liquid, place it 
 again on the fire and add more sugar. 
 If it is desired to have the drops very 
 strong, they are placed in a box, sprink- 
 led with oil of peppermint, and the box 
 closed as tightly as possible. 
 
 Punch Drops. The sugar is stirred 
 into a thin paste with equal parts of 
 rum and lemon juice, so that the mass 
 need not be heated as much, or else 
 the rum would evaporate. They are 
 dropped in the same manner as pe'pper- 
 mint drops. 
 
 LOZENGES. Spice for Lozenges. 
 Comminute to a coarse powder 1 
 ounces of cinnamon, 1J ounces of gin- 
 ger root, 1J ounces of cloves, and \ 
 ounce each of galanga, mace, and nut- 
 meg, and sift the fine powder out. 
 Keep this spice in well-closed bottles. 
 
 Chinese Lozenges. Make a syrup of 
 1 pound of white sugar with i pint of 
 water, and then stir quickly into it, 
 while hot, 3 ounces of powdered China 
 root, 1 ounce of comminuted preserved 
 orange peel, and ounce of lozenge 
 spice. Pour out and cut into lozenges. 
 
 Lemon Lozevges. Boil 1 pound of 
 white sugar with 4J ounces of water; 
 then stir into it 1 ounce of comminuted 
 preserved lemon peel, 1 ounce of the 
 yellow part of the peel of fresh lemons, 
 20 drops of oil of lemon, and 1 fluid 
 ounce of lemon juice. Pour the mass 
 out and cut it into lozenges. They 
 have a very agreeable and refreshing 
 taste and quench thirst. 
 
 Peppermint Lozenges. Make a syrup 
 of 1 pound of fine white sugar with i 
 pint of peppermint water ; stir into it 
 while hot li ounces of finely powdered 
 peppermint, ounce of lozenge spice, 
 1 ounce of peeled sweet almonds cut in 
 thin pieces, and 1 fluid drachm of oil 
 of peppermint, and form the mass into 
 lozenges. 
 
 Ginger Lozenges. Make a syrup of 
 1 pound of fine white sugar with 1 gill 
 of water, then stir into it i ounce of 
 powdered cinnamon, 1 drachm of pow- 
 dered nutmeg, $ drachm of powdered 
 mace, and 7 drachms of powdered gin- 
 ger root, and cut lozenges from the 
 
 Stomachic Lozenges. Make a syrup 
 of 1 pound of white' sugar with 1 gill of* 
 best rose-water. Then stir into it 1 
 ounce of preserved orange peel cut in 
 pieces, a like quantity each of lemon 
 peel and candied lemon peel cut in 
 small pieces, and If ounces each of 
 peeled sweet almonds and lozenge 
 spice, and cut the mass into lozenges. 
 
 Cherry Marmalade. Boil, with fre- 
 
MEDICINAL SWEETMEATS. 
 
 85 
 
 quent stirring, for 8 hours 20 pounds of 
 white cherries, 4 pounds of black cher- 
 ries, and 8 to 12 pounds of sugar syrup. 
 This will give a marmalade of excellent 
 taste and preferable to the best jelly. 
 
 Iceland Moss Jelly. Soak and wash 
 2 ounces of Iceland moss and dissolve 
 it in a like quantity of water in order 
 to obtain a strong solution. Boil this 
 for 1 hour, then strain, add 1 drachm 
 of isinglass, and boil the whole until it 
 has the proper consistency, and flavor 
 with sugar and lemon juice. This jelly 
 is used for coughs and asthma. 
 
 Isinglass Jelly. Soak i ounce of 
 isinglass in 1J pints of cold water for 12 
 hours; then add a like quantity of 
 water and heat the mass gently, con- 
 stantly stirring it, until all the isinglass 
 is dissolved. If it is desired to obtain 
 an entirely clear jelly, add the white 
 of 1 egg before removing it from the 
 fire. 
 
 Gelatine Jelly. Soak 1 ounce of gel- 
 atine in \ pint of cold water for 12 
 hours; then add a like quantity of 
 water, and boil, while constantly stir- 
 ring, until all is dissolved. Flavor 
 with 2 cut lemons and sugar and wine. 
 
 Buck-horn Jelly. Wash thoroughly 
 8J ounces of rasped buck's horn, then 
 boil it in 2-i quarts of water until but 
 lj quarts remain, and strain it. Then 
 add 2 ounces of sugar, the juice of 1 
 lemon, and the white of 1 egg beaten 
 previously to a froth, with some water. 
 The mixture is then boiled until it has 
 the proper consistency, when the yel- 
 low part of the peel of 1 lemon is ad.led. 
 
 Sago Jelly. Soak 1 ounce of sago for 
 1 hour in water; then boil it in If 
 pints of fresh water until a clear solu- 
 tion has been obtained. Flavor with 
 wine, sugar, lemon peel, and spices. 
 The sago may also be boiled in milk 
 instead of water. 
 
 . Tapioca Jelly. Wash thoroughly 
 10' ounces of tapioca and then soak it 
 for "> to 6 hours in If pints of fresh 
 >wator; add the peel of 1 lemon and 
 place the whole on the fire. Boil 
 slowly until a clear solution is obtained, 
 and then flavor it with lemon juice, 
 wine, and su^ar. 
 
 Iri#h JfoNS Jelly. Wash the moss 
 thoroughly and soak it in a su Stable 
 quantity of water. Then boil and 
 strain it, and flavor with licorice, rock 
 
 candy, and lemon juice. It is used as 
 a remedy in coughs and asthma. 
 
 Ground Mass for Cretne ((Jr erne Fon- 
 dant). To a solution of 2 pounds of 
 grape sugar add f drachm of tartaric 
 acid and a like quantity of bicarbonate 
 of soda. The solubility and lightness 
 of the mass is increased by an addition 
 of some cream of tartar, but this is not 
 absolutely necessary. The resulting 
 thickly-fluid mass is worked in the 
 usual manner for confectionery pur- 
 poses. 
 
 Red Color for Coloring Sweetmeats, 
 Jellies, etc. Syrup of cochineal is gen- 
 erally used. But a far more beautiful / ., 
 color, which is not affected by acids ir 
 and alkalies, is obtained by preparing 
 a syrup from kerrues berries (Pltyto- 
 lacca dccandra). It may also be used 
 for coloring table vinegar, wine, liq- 
 uors, etc. 
 
 Innoxious Green Color for Candies, 
 etc. Digest 7J grains of saffron for 24 
 hours in i ounce of distilled water. 
 Dissolve, on the other hand, 3J grains 
 of indigo carmine in j ounce of dis- 
 tilled water. By mixing the 2 solu- 
 tions together an intensely green color 
 will be obtained. By boiling the col- 
 oring matter, compounded with sugar, 
 to a syrup, it can be kept for months, 
 or it may be evaporated to dry ness in a 
 porcelain or glass vessel. 
 
 Receipts for Preparing Bandoline or 
 Fi.ro teur. I. Boil Iceland or Irish 
 moss in water, strain, and perfume the 
 fluid. 
 
 II. Boil i teaspoonful of quince 
 seed, 1 tablespoonful of flaxseed, and 
 a pinch of white mustard seed in 1 
 pound of water until it is reduced to 
 half the quantity, and perfume with oil 
 of almonds. 
 
 III. Boil for 5 minutes 1 tablespoon- 
 ful of flaxseed in 1J pints of water. 
 
 IV. Dissolve by heating li ounces of 
 isinsrlass in 1 pound of water. Then 
 add 2 ounces of proof spirit of wine and 
 perfume with oil of almonds. 
 
 V. Digest 1 part of powdered gum 
 tragacanth for 3 days in 30 parts of 
 rose-water, then strain, and perfume 
 the fluid with essential oil of rose or oil 
 of almonds. 
 
 The above mixtures, if necessary, can 
 be dyed with cochineal. 
 
 Baking Powders. I. Mix 9 parts of 
 
TECIINO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 bicarbonate of soda, 8 of tartaric acid, 
 and 10 of pulverized orris root or rice 
 flour. 
 
 II. Mix 2f parts of bicarbonate of 
 soda, i of bicarbonate of ammonia, 5 of 
 alum, and 4 of arrowroot. 
 
 III. Mix 56 parts of carbonate of 
 soda, 28 of tartaric acid, 112 of potato 
 flour, and of turmeric. 
 
 A New Baking Powder consists of 
 180 parts of crude alum, 75 of bicarbon- 
 ate of soda, and 50 of less basic phos- 
 phate of lime. 
 
 By less basic phosphate of lime is 
 meant a product obtained by pouring 
 an equal quantity by weight of hydro- 
 chloric acid of 10 per cent, over bones 
 calcined white and ground to flour. 
 By pouring water over this baking 
 powder, carbonic acid and sulphate of 
 potash and of soda are formed, while 
 alumina is separated. As the alum is 
 entirely decomposed the inventor of the 
 powder considers it innoxious. Three- 
 quarters of an ounce of ) 'owder suffice 
 for 1 pound of flour. It is added dry 
 to the ready dough. 
 
 COPYING AND PRINTING. 
 
 New Method of Copying Engravings, 
 Drawings, and Designs. Place the 
 sheet of paper on which the drawing is 
 made on the top of a sheet of cardboard 
 which has previously been exposed to 
 vapor of hydrochloric acid, and on the 
 top of the drawing spread a sheet of 
 paper sensitized with an oxygen salt of 
 silver. The double nitrate of iron and 
 silver is one of the best for this purpose. 
 The vapors of the hydrochloric acic 1 
 rising from the pasteboard beneath pass 
 through the paper at all points, except 
 those at which the lines of the picture 
 are found. The oxy-salt in the sensi 
 tized paper quickly becomes converted 
 into chloride of silver ; but those points 
 at which the hydrochloric acid has not 
 penetrated remain in their first con- 
 dition. When the paper, treated in this 
 manner, is laid on a plate of copper, or 
 exposed to hydrogen, or vapor of phos- 
 phorus, the unchloridized parts blacken, 
 and a perfect copy of the design is ob- 
 tained, which may be afterwards fixed 
 in the regular way. 
 
 Gelatinoyraphy. A Cheap, Quick, 
 
 and Simple Process of Duplicating 
 Drawings by means of the Printing- 
 press. Cleanse the surface of a smooth 
 zinc plate, and coat it with a paste of 
 plaster of Paris and water, using a 
 camel's-hair brush. When the coating 
 is nearly dry, scratch the drawing upon 
 it with a sharp-pointed instrument, cut- 
 ting down through the plaster to the 
 metal, so that all the lines and points 
 shall show clear and sharp on the zinc 
 plate. A rim of ordinary glazier's putty 
 is then made around the zinc plate, and 
 a gently heated mass prepared from 
 bone glue arid glycerine, such as is u:<ed 
 for printers' rollers, is poured to about a 
 thickness of 4 to i of an inch upon the 
 matrix of gypsum. When entirely cold 
 it is removed from the matrix, which is 
 readily accomplished. 
 
 This gelatine plate reproduces the 
 entire drawing in relief, like a wood- 
 cut or zinc etching. It is attached to a 
 smooth surface of glass or metal, placed 
 in a frame with raised rim, and a plas- 
 ter cast is made of it, from which a stereo- 
 type plate or an electrotype may be made 
 in the usual way, and made ready for 
 the press. (W.) 
 
 Autographic Method of Printing, 
 The writing in autographic ink is trans- 
 ferred in the usual manner on a cop- 
 per plate, and this is treated with a 
 solution of salts of mercury, and then 
 with metallic mercury. By this all the 
 points left free by the automatic ink 
 receive an amalgamated surface which 
 does not take printing ink. 
 
 To Duplicate Writings and Draw- 
 inr;s. A mass consisting of gelatine, 
 glycerine, and water is spread upon 
 water-proof paper. The original writ- 
 ing or drawing is executed with a solu- 
 tion of 100 parts of water, 10 of chrome 
 alum, 5 of sulphuric acid, and 10 of 
 gum Arabic, and transferred by placing 
 it upon the water-proof paper. Solu- 
 tion of aniline color is then poured over 
 this, and the excess removed with tissue 
 paper. By placing clean paper upon 
 the prepared paper, negative impres- 
 sions of the original are obtained. 
 
 Solution of water-glass, or of astrin- 
 gent salts, may be used in place of the 
 above ink. 
 
 Printing in Colors. In ordinary 
 color printing as many plates or stones 
 have to be used as there are varieties 
 
COPYING AND PRINTING. 
 
 87 
 
 of color. Mr. Goeth, of Zurich, has 
 recently invented a process in which 
 all the colors are printed at once with 
 one stone. The colors used are fusible 
 by heat. The most prominent color is 
 first poured on a perfectly smooth mar- 
 ble slab, and the parts not to be covered 
 with this color are cut out with a knife 
 down to the surface of the marble. A 
 second color is now poured in, and the 
 parts not to be covered with it are cut 
 out, and so on until the colors required 
 are complete. The thickness of the 
 coloring matter is determined by the 
 number of impressions, and after each 
 impression the plate is very slightly 
 raised. The paper is moistened with 
 turpentine, and the impressions may be 
 made with nearly the same rapidity as 
 those with one color only. The num- 
 ber of colors has a quite insignificant 
 influence on the price of the prints, 
 whereas the number of stones in the 
 ordinary method raises the price enor- 
 mously. 
 
 To Copy Drawings in Black Lines on 
 White, Ground. The following pro- 
 cess has recently been patented by A. 
 Colas, of Nev/Uly^ France. Paper is 
 prepared with the following solution: 
 i ounce each of sulphate of iron, sesqui- 
 chloride of iron, gelatine, and tartiiric 
 acid in 10^ ounces of distilled water. 
 The paper, kept flat, is stored in a dark 
 closet. When exposed to the light 
 beneath a transparent drawing, the 
 parts influenced by the light lose their 
 greenish-yellow color. It is afterward 
 dipped into a bath made of 7 ounces 
 of gallic acid, | fluid ounce of alcohol, 
 and 1 quart of water. The greenish- 
 yellow lines turn black at once, and 
 the sheet requires only to be rinsed in 
 water. 
 
 Cyanotype (Bine Prints). In a man- 
 ual distributed by the Department of 
 Public Work*, of France, among the offi- 
 cials occupied with producing and copy- 
 ing plans and drawings, the following 
 cyanotype processes are recommended : 
 
 I. Dissolve in 100 parts of water, 10 
 of sesqui-chloride of iron, and 5 of citric 
 or tartaric acid. Paper dipped in this 
 bath and exposed, after drying, under 
 a transparent dra wing gives, on develop- 
 ment with yellow prussiate of potash, a . 
 blue negative. 
 
 II. Dissolve 10 parts of ferric-am- I 
 
 monium citrate in 100 of water, and 10 
 parts of red prussiate of potash in 60 of 
 water, and mix the two solutions. Pa- 
 per dipped in this and, after drying, 
 exposed to the light, gives a blue nega- 
 tive, which is fixed by simply washing 
 it. The prepared paper should be kepi 
 in a dry place. 
 
 Ahiioyraphy. Gamier coats a pol- 
 ished copper plate with solution of 
 sugar and bichromate of ammonium, 
 and, when dry, exposes it to the light 
 under a diapositive and powders the 
 plate with the finest dust of albumen. 
 The plate is then exposed to vapors of 
 fluoric acid, which are absorbed by the 
 albumen, adhering only to the points 
 of the copper plate which have not 
 been exposed to the light. The plate 
 treated in this manner is then quickly 
 laid, with the picture side down, upon 
 a glass plate which has been previously 
 coated with solution of sugar and borax 
 in water, and dried. The coating on the 
 points touched by the absorbed fluoric 
 acid becomes fluid and is dusted over 
 with fusible color. The action is al- 
 most instantaneous, and the operation 
 can be repeated several times with the 
 same copper plate without subjecting it 
 again to vapors of fluoric acid. Mag- 
 lifieent burned-in pictures are obtained 
 in this manner. 
 
 Polygraphic Method. A solution of 
 ounce of aniline color and 8 drops of 
 glacial acetic acid in 3 fluid ounces of 
 water is used as an ink in this process. 
 Japanese paper, a copying press, and 
 a smooth, polished zinc plate are used 
 fur producing copies. The paper, after 
 the corners have been moistened, is 
 spread out upon the zinc plate. On the 
 ;op of the paper is placed a linen cloth 
 first soaked in water and then wrung 
 out, and on the top of this a sheet of 
 water-proof paper. A cushion formed 
 of ordinary paper by folding it several 
 times together is pressed upon the zinc . 
 late thus prepared. The side of the 
 sheet written on is placed upon the 
 sheet fastened on the zinc plate, and on 
 ;he top of this a sheet of paper of the 
 same .size. The sheets of paper which 
 are to receive the copy must be damp- 
 ened. It is now pressed ; in a few min- 
 utes the impression will be ready, which 
 can be used at once for 20 to 25 copies. 
 Ai'U-T the impression is drawn oft' the 
 
88 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Japanese paper is removed and the 
 zinc plate washed and cleansed. If 4 
 pages of a sheet have to be copied the 
 pages must be enveloped in sheets of 
 paper, which will prevent the ink from 
 one page depositing itself on the other. 
 The Ca/lograp/i, an instrument in- 
 vented by Jacobsen-, ofJBer/iti, for dupli- 
 cating manuscripts, supplies a greater 
 number of copies than by any other 
 process, and in printers' ink, which 
 makes them accepted by the Post Office, 
 as printed matter, at cheaper postage 
 than when written. The callograph 
 printing plates are composed of gela- 
 tine, glycerine, and soap, and before 
 using are washed with a mixture of 
 tannin and glycerine, leaving a kind of 
 tanning on the surface. 
 
 The manuscript is written with a 
 fluid ink prepared from salt of alumina, 
 which forms upon the plate a sebate of 
 aluminous substance similar to that in 
 lithography, capable of taking print- 
 ers' ink. The plate should be moist- 
 ened like a lithograph stone. 
 
 The Hektograph. A composition is 
 made as follows : Best gelatine or glue, 
 1 part, is soaked over night in cold 
 water and the excess of water poured 
 off. The glue is then warmed in a 
 water-bath with the addition of from 10 
 to 12 parts of glycerine, to which may 
 be added 4 to parts of finely-ground 
 heavy spar and 1 part dextrine, thor- 
 oughly mixed with constant stirring. 
 (In summer less glycerine should be 
 used.) 
 
 This melted mixture is poured into a 
 shallow metal pan or box of tin or 
 zinc and allowed to cool, when it should 
 have the tough, elastic consistency of a 
 printers' roller. 
 
 The letter or sketch to be duplicated 
 is then written or traced on a sheet of 
 heavy paper with an aniline ink (which 
 has great tinctorial qualities). When 
 dry this is laid, inked side down, on the 
 gelatine plate above described and sub- 
 jected to moderate and uniform press- 
 ure for a few minutes. It may then be 
 removed, when a copy of the original 
 will be found on the gelatine plate, 
 which has absorbed a large quantity of 
 the ink. 
 
 The blank sheets to receive the copies 
 are now laid one by one on the gelatine ! 
 plate, subjected to moderate pressure I 
 
 over the whole surface with a wooden 
 or rubber roller, or with ihe hand, and 
 lifted off by taking hold of the corners 
 and stripping it gently with an even 
 ] movement. If this is done too quick iy 
 | or roughly the composition may be 
 torn. Each succeeding copy thus made 
 will be a little fainter than its prede- 
 cessor. From 40 to 60 legible copies 
 may be made in this manner. When 
 the operation is finished the plate 
 should be gone over gently with a wet 
 sponge and the ink remaining on its 
 surface soaked out. The superfluous 
 moisture is then carefully wiped off, 
 when the plate will be ready for another 
 operation. A good purple hektograph 
 ink is made as follows : Dissolve 1 part 
 methyl-violet in 8 parts water and add 
 1 part glycerine. Gently warm the 
 : solution for an hour, and add, when 
 cool, i part alcohol. Or, take methyl- 
 violet 1 part, water 7 parts, glycerine 2 
 parts. (W.) 
 
 J'Jdison's Electric Pen. This ingen- 
 ious method of duplicating written 
 copy is the invention of Mr. Thos. A. 
 Edison. The pen is a slender tube of 
 metal within which is a steel needle 
 which is slightly driven forward out of 
 the tube many times per second by 
 means of a small electro-magnetic en- 
 ! gine carried at the other extremity, 
 i which engine is actuated by a voltaic 
 I battery. The operator slowly directs 
 the pen by hand over a sheet of pre- 
 pared paper laid on a smooth metal 
 plate. At every blow of the armature 
 the needle punctures the paper, and 
 the result is, finally, the production of 
 a stencil of the letter, design, etc., in 
 which the words or lines are made up 
 of dots so close together that at a little 
 distance they appear to the eye as con- 
 tinuous lines. The sheets to be printed 
 are overlaid by this stencil and an 
 inked roller passed over it the result 
 being an impression of the letter, de- 
 sign, etc. A great number of copies 
 may thus be produced from a single 
 stencil. The apparatus comprises a 
 compact and convenient printing 
 frame. (W.) 
 
 The Cyclostyle. This new duplicat- 
 ing process is a substitute for the " Edi- 
 son Pen," and does away with the use 
 of a battery and other electrical appli- 
 ances. The process is purely - median- 
 
DECORATION, ORNAMENTATION, ETC. 
 
 ical one. The essential feature of this 
 invention is the pen. This consists of 
 a suitable holder, carrying at one ex- 
 tremity a very small disk of hardened 
 steel (or other suitable metal), with ser- 
 rated edge and so mounted as to revolve 
 freely. A sheet of prepared paper is 
 laid on a smooth metal surface, and the 
 letter, design, etc., to be duplicated is 
 traced thereon with the cyclostyle. 
 The fine serrations of the wheel, pac- 
 ing over the paper, produce an infinite 
 number of minute punctures, identical 
 with those produced with the " Edison 
 Ekvtric Pen." A stencil is thus pro- 
 duced from which any desired number 
 of copies can be made by placing sheet 
 after sheet beneath it and going over 
 the stencil with an inked roller. Sev- 
 eral thousand duplicates, it is claimed, 
 may thus be obtained from a single 
 stencil. This apparatus comprises a 
 convenient printing frame. (W.) 
 
 DAMASKEENING STEEL. 
 
 Genuine D'im'tsk. Cut 8 sheets of 
 steel 12 inches long, 1 inch wide, and 
 T ' 5 inch thick. Now prepare 5 sheets 
 of soft iron an 1 4 of brittle iron, of equal 
 dimensions with the steel sheets. These 
 are then joined together in the follow- 
 ing manner: A sheet of steel is laid 
 upon one of soft iron, upon this one of 
 brittle iron, then one of steel, and so on 
 to the seventh sheet, which should be 
 one of soft iron. This bundle is placed 
 in the fire and, without heating it over 
 much, weld 3d together. It is then 
 squared an 1 worked smooth under the 
 hammer and brought to a white heat. 
 One end is then placed in a vise, the 
 other is grasped with a pair of tongs 
 and the mass strongly twisted into the 
 shape of a screw. It is then smoothed 
 and wrought into a Jbar i to f inch 
 wide and ^ to i inch thick. This is cut 
 into 2 equal parts. A sheet of steel & 
 inch thick and as long and as wide as 
 1 of the 2 parts of the prepared bar is 
 cut and placed between the 2 parts. 
 The mass is placed in the fire and then 
 beaten under the hammer to the thick- 
 ness required for the articles to be man- 
 ufactured. A pickle consisting of H 
 pints of water, 1 ounce of aqua-fort is, 1 
 ounce of sal-ammoniac, and 4A- drachms 
 
 of blue vitriol is now prepared in a 
 copper vessel. Paint the places which 
 are not to be damaskeened with some 
 kind of varnish, and place the articles 
 manufactured from the prepared bar 
 into the bath. When the pickle has 
 taken effect they are taken out, rinsed 
 off with cold water, and dried. 
 
 Imitation of Damask. Prepare a 
 mixture of equal parts of good linseed- 
 oil varnish, white rosin, and wax. Coat 
 with this the iron, which should have 
 been previously cleansed and polished, 
 and dfraw with a pen the pattern usually 
 used in damaskeening. Make a rim of 
 wax around the pattern and pour nitric 
 acid mixed with an equal quantity of 
 lemon juice upon the pattern. As soon 
 as the nitric acid assumes a brownish 
 color pour it off, wash the iron thor- 
 oughly with water, and remove the var- 
 nish by melting. If the article is small, 
 round," or has an uneven surface, place 
 it for a few minutes in a mixture of 8 
 parts of water, 1 of nitric acid, and 1 of 
 lemon juice, and allow it to remain un- 
 til the fluid assumes a brownish color, 
 when it is taken out and cleansed. 
 
 Damaskeervmg with. Gold or Silver. 
 There are two methods of practising 
 this process. By one method the sur- 
 face of the metal to be damaskeened is 
 roughened with a file; the artist, by his 
 skill, causes to adhere to the roughened 
 surface threads of gold or silver, which 
 are applied and burnished down. Broad 
 surfaces are produced by working the 
 threads or wires side by side. Heat is 
 applied, but the necessary degree re- 
 quires great judgment. In the other 
 method the surface to be damaskeened 
 is incised or cut into, the incision at the 
 bottom being expanded. Into this 
 channel gold or silver is introduced and 
 beaten down. 
 
 DECORATION, ORNAMENTATION, ETC. 
 
 To Gild Glass. Make a paste of fine 
 bole, burned ochre, umber, and copal 
 varnish, and, to make the mass as fine 
 as possible, strain it through a cloth. 
 
 Cleanse the glass to be gilded by rub- 
 bing it with pulverized chalk and a 
 rag, and, when clean, avoid touching it 
 with the naked hand. Then by means 
 of a brush draw or paint the desired 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 decoration upon the glass with the 
 above mass, fill it with water to prevent 
 it from cracking, and expose it to a 
 moderate heat. Protect the glass from 
 dust and other contaminations. When 
 it is sufficiently dry to allow of the gold 
 leaf being applied, cut this with a finely- 
 polished knife into the necessary shape 
 and press it gently upon the glass. The 
 glass is then protected against dust in 
 the same manner as before, but heated 
 somewhat stronger to burn the gold in. 
 -This gilding will adhere as well as fire 
 gilding. 
 
 Gold for Illuminating. Procure a 
 book of leaf gold ; gently take out some 
 of the leaves and grind them in a mor- 
 tar with a little honey until it is thor- 
 oughly intermixed with the gold, then 
 add a little water and work it again. 
 Put the whole into a vial and shake it 
 well. Let it stand quietly for an hour 
 or two and the gold will deposit at the 
 bottom of the vial. Pour oft' the liquid 
 standing over the gold and add weak 
 prepared gum in its stead, sufficient to 
 make it flow freely from the pen or 
 camel's-hair pencil. When required 
 for use shake it occasionally. 
 
 To Gild Porcelain. Dissolve 1 ounce 
 of gold in a mixture of 4i ounces each 
 of nitric acid and hydrochloric acid; 
 then add 18 grains each of tin and 
 butter of antimony, and when the whole 
 is dissolved dilute the fluid with 1 pint 
 of water. 
 
 The solution of gold is decomposed 
 by a peculiar balsam prepared in the 
 foil /wing manner : Dissolve at a mod- 
 erate heat i ounce each of sulphur and 
 Venetian turpentine in 2f fluid ounces 
 of oil of turpentine, until the solution 
 has acquired a thick consistency and a 
 dark-brown color, and, when cold, add 
 IS ounces of oil of lavender. Pour the 
 solution of gold upon this balsam, heat 
 it moderately, and stir. The solution of 
 gold will be decolorized, and the gold, 
 entirely dissolved, passes into the oily 
 fluid, which, when cold, resembles 
 rosin. The liquid standing over it, 
 which contains the acid, is poured off, 
 the oily fluid washed with warm water, 
 and when the last traces of moisture 
 have been removed, 2i ounces of oil of 
 lavender and 31 ounces of oil of turpen- 
 tine are added, and the mixture is 
 heated until the whole is dissolved, 
 
 when it is poured over 1J drachms of 
 subuitrate of bismuth and allowed to 
 settle. The clear portion is poured oif 
 and concentrated. An auriferous bal- 
 sam consisting of a thickish fluid with 
 a light greenish lustre is obtained in 
 this manner. 
 
 The Venetian turpentine is added as 
 a drier. The auriferous resins remain- 
 ing after the evaporation of the volatile 
 oils become decomposed when exposed 
 to heat, and, without melting, produce 
 at a low temperature a residue of car- 
 bon and gold having the appearance of 
 a very thin leaf. 
 
 To Gild an Ornamental Frame. 
 Cleanse the frame from all impurities. 
 Then boil 4 ounces of fine glue with 
 1^ pints of water. Saturate the cleansed 
 frame with this by means of a brush 
 until the wood is thoroughly permeated 
 and has acquired some lustre. 
 
 Applying the First Coat. Take 8| 
 ounces of Spanish chalk and 4^ ounces 
 of French chalk and triturate both 
 with the glue water; bring the mass 
 into a pot, heat it somewhat, and dilute 
 it to the consistency of syrup, but avoid 
 making it too thinly fluid. Now spat- 
 ter the mass upon the frame with a 
 brush so that it assumes a rough ap- 
 pearance, and as soon as the coat is dry 
 repeat the application 5 or 6 times; 
 but the mass, after the second applica- 
 tion, should be spread instead of being 
 spattered. When the frame thus pre- 
 pared is dry, the surface is first rubbed 
 with pumice stone and then finished 
 with shave-grass (horse-tail), when it is 
 set aside in a clean, dry place to receive 
 later on the gilding size. 
 
 Preparation of Gilding Size. Melt i 
 ounce of beeswax and 1 ounce of Vene- 
 tian soap, then add 8| ounces of Arme- 
 nian bole, and roast the whole thor- 
 oughly. When this has been done add 
 the whites of 16 eggs, rub the whole 
 together upon a rubbing stone, and 
 from the resulting mass form balls of 
 the size of a hazel-nut ; dry these upon 
 a glass plate and put them by in a dry 
 place. 
 
 Applying the Gilding Size. Take a 
 piece of gilding size, triturate it with 
 water, place it in a clean glass, and 
 dilute with water. Brush the frame 
 slightly with the dissolved gilding si/c 
 5 or G times, allowing one application 
 
DECORATION, ORNAMENTATION, ETC. 
 
 01 
 
 to dry before laying on the next. If 
 the frame is to be gilded with a bright 
 lustre a stiff" brushing is required to re- 
 move the dust which may have settled 
 upon the gilding size; but if a dead 
 lustre is wanted, the gilding size is 
 coated with a very thin parchment size ; 
 and if the dead lustre is to be very 
 characteristic it is first smoothed with 
 a burnisher. 
 
 Bright Lustre. A palette is required 
 for this. The gold sizing is moistened 
 with very pure white fruit brandy by 
 means of a caineFs-hair pencil, the gold 
 leaf cut with a knife and placed upon 
 the moistened spot with the palette. 
 It is then allowed to dry, and those 
 places intended to show a bright lustre 
 are smoothed with the burnisher. By 
 this a gilding is produced which closely 
 resembles fire-gilt work. All dust 
 should be avoided during the work. 
 
 Dead Lustre. After the gold leaf has 
 been applied to those places which are 
 to show a dead lustre, apply lukewarm 
 fruit brandy and parchment size. Then 
 take some dragon's blood and orpiment, 
 rub them very fine, and make a simple 
 gold glazing with water and a little 
 parchment size, and apply this 2 or 3 
 times. For lemon-colored gold take 
 saflron instead of dragon's blood. 
 
 /Silvering. Preparation of the Silver 
 Size. Thoroughly roast in a pan 4i 
 ounces of finely-pulverized fat pipe- 
 clay, 2^ ounces of Spanish chalk, i 
 ounce each of Venetian soap and bees- 
 wax. Rub these fine with the whites 
 of 20 eggs, and apply in the same man- 
 ner as the gold sizing. 
 
 Silvering with a Dead Lustre. Rub 
 3 ounces of white lead and i ounce of 
 white litharge with linseed-oil varnish ; 
 mix the mass with an oil varnish and 
 apply in the same manner as indicated 
 above under gilding. 
 
 To Silver Wooden Figures with 
 Jiismut't. Paint the figure over with 
 light glue, make a fine white chalk 
 priming of glue and chalk, and apply 
 this two or three times. Melt the bis- 
 muth in a crucible, and pour it out care- 
 fully so that the impurities remain be- 
 hind. Triturate the melted bismuth 
 upon a hard stone, and stir it into a 
 paste with light-colored glue. Lay this 
 on the chalk priming, and, when dry, 
 polish with a burnisher. 
 
 To Gild and Silver Visiting Cards. 
 Make a small matrice of pasteboard, 
 and surround this with a low edge of 
 the same material, so that the cards can 
 be firmly held during the printing. 
 Then coat the plate twice with thick 
 white of egg, and dry the coating until 
 it shows not the slightest trace of moist- 
 ure. Now place the gold or silver leaf 
 upon the plate, and press. The plate 
 should not be too hot ; it is better to use 
 it almost cold. The gold or silver in 
 excess is removed with cotton. 
 
 To Gild or Silver Morocco Paper. 
 Wash the paper with urine, and paint 
 it over but once with white of egg. A 
 moderate heat only should be used. 
 
 To Gild Cotton. Spread the cotton 
 over with glue, dry it, and then apply 
 a thick solution of parchment size and 
 dry it again entirely. The gilding will 
 adhere to this very well. 
 
 Gilding and Silvering on Parchment 
 and Paper. Triturate Venice glass up- 
 on a hard stone with gum water, write 
 or paint with this upon the parchment 
 or paper and allow it to dry. Then rub 
 : the places written over or painted with 
 ' a gold coin, which will gild them, or 
 | if they are to be silvered, with a piece 
 of fine silver, and burnish them. 
 
 Italian Method of Gilding Wood. 
 Paint the wood over several times with 
 hot, but not too strong, glue water, so 
 that the pores of the wood become thor- 
 oughly permeated. If the surface of 
 the wood is fiat, apply the glue water 
 with a flat brush. When the glue water 
 is dry, a priming of chalk is laid on the 
 wood. For this as much whiting as 
 necessary is rubbed very fine upon a 
 stone with glue water. This is laid on 
 the wood twice or three times, allowing 
 : each application to dry before applying 
 ' the next. The ground is then smoothed 
 I with shave-grass (horse-tail) until the 
 I surface is entirely even. It is then 
 polished with a coarse cloth wrapped 
 around a piece of soft wood, square on 
 one end and pointed on the other. 
 During the polishing, which is con- 
 tinued until the ground shows some 
 lustre, the work must be frequently 
 dampened with a moist brush. 
 
 The gilding size is prepared as fol- 
 lows : ij ounces of graphite, 1 pound of 
 ! French white bole, and 3^ pounds of 
 | Armenian bole are pulverized as finely 
 
92 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL EECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 as possible in a mortar, then passed 
 through a sieve, intimately mixed to- 
 gether, and brought into a well-lined 
 crucible. Eight and three-fourth ounces 
 of shavings of white beeswax are then 
 added ; the mixture is placed over a 
 moderate fire, and allowed to remain 
 there until the mass has become en- 
 tirely homogeneous. It is then poured 
 upon a stone slab, and allowed to cool, 
 when the whites of 24 to 28 eggs are 
 added, and the whole rubbed to an im- 
 palpable powder upon a hard stone. 
 This powder is placed upon paper aad 
 dried, when it is stored away for future 
 use. Every time it is to be used it is 
 triturated with water. 
 
 The gilding is done in the following 
 manner : Take a vessel filled with ordi- 
 nary whiskey, and a few brushes of 
 different sizes; also a cushion stuffed 
 with cotton and edged with parchment, 
 which is placed upon a board covered 
 with leather. The gold leaves are 
 placed upon the cushion, and cut into 
 the required size with a knife. A broad, 
 flat camel's-hair pencil is used for ap- 
 plying and fastening the gold leaf. 
 The parts to be gilded are first moistened 
 with whiskey by means of the brush, 
 and the gold leaf is then laid on. When 
 the work is finished, it is alloAved to 
 dry for a few days, and the parts which 
 are to be polished are then rubbed with 
 the burnisher until the required lustre 
 is produced. Those parts which are to 
 have a dead lustre are brushed over 
 with a solution of saffron in spirit of 
 wine. 
 
 Burofs Process of Silvering and Gild- 
 ing Silk, Cotton, and Woollen Yarns. 
 Arrange the cords to be silvered in 
 proper order, and immerse them for 2 
 hours in a solution of nitrate of silver 
 mixed with caustic ammonia until it is 
 clear. Dry the cords and expose them 
 to a current of pure hydrogen. As the 
 threads, by this process of silvering, 
 have become good conductors, they can 
 be easily electroplated with gold. 
 
 To Make Glass Opaque or Frosted. 
 First cleanse the glass. If only por- 
 tions of it are to be frosted, leave those 
 bare and protect the others by a coat- 
 ing of wax or other impermeable sub- 
 stance. Then rub some fluorspar to a 
 fine powder, and mix it with concen- 
 trated sulphuric acid, so as to make a 
 
 I thin paste. Rub this by means of a 
 piece of lead upon those parts of the 
 
 ! glass which are to be rendered opaque. 
 A fine frosted outline of the design may 
 thus be produced upon a sheet of smooth, 
 transparent glass. To finish the oper- 
 ation tne glass is gently heated in an 
 iron vessel placed beneath a chimney 
 flue, to carry off the noxious fumes that 
 are thrown off. The plate, when cool, 
 is washed with a diluted solution of 
 soda or potash, to remove the last traces 
 of acid, and is then rinsed in water. 
 Focusing- glasses for the photo-camera, 
 and development-glasses for pigment 
 printing, can be prepared in this way 
 at very little expense. 
 
 Ornamenting Metal Surfaces. A 
 new process for ornamenting metal 
 surfaces consists in plating, electro- 
 plating, or othewise covering a plate, 
 bar, or ingot of soft metal witli a thin 
 film of harder metal, and then rolling 
 out or pressing the ingot or bar into a 
 sheet; whereby the coating is broken 
 into irregular forms, and a marbleized 
 appearance produced on the surface of 
 the sheet. 
 
 Aubriut's New Process of Decorating 
 Glass. The present methods employed 
 to render glass opaque are likely to fall 
 into disuse when this new process be- 
 comes better known, for muslin glass, 
 as it is termed, can be produced in a 
 variety of colors and in a number of 
 pleasing designs which will compare 
 favorably with the dull monotony of 
 the present ground glass, and even 
 with etched or embossed glass. A 
 sheet of the material to be covered is 
 floated with a vitrifiable pigment dis- 
 solved in gum water, and, when dry, 
 the stencil pattern is laid on, and the 
 exposed parts are cleaned with a stiff 
 brush. The sheet of glass is then 
 placed in a furnace and the remain- 
 ing color burned in. When simple 
 opaque glass is desired, a plate is cov- 
 ered with gum water and dried ; it is 
 then placed in a frame, and a piece of 
 tulle, muslin, or other suitable mate- 
 rial stretched over it inclose proximity 
 
 to the gummed surface. The frame is 
 then placed in a box containing a 
 quantity of the powdered pigment, 
 which is forced against the muslin by 
 an air-blast, and, passing through the 
 interstices, adheres to the gummed 
 
DECORATION, ORNAMENTATION, ETC. 
 
 93 
 
 glass. In this way the patterns of the j 
 lace or muslin are reproduced, and the i 
 powder heing first caused to adhere 
 tinniy by placing the plate in a steam 
 chamber for a few moments, is burned 
 in, as before described, in a special fur- 
 nace. I>y means of stencil plates of 
 different designs, and muslin and lace 
 of different patterns, together with pig- 
 ments of various hues, very beauti- 
 ful glass screens can be produced, 
 which for many purposes will be pre- 
 ferred to the plain opaque glass at 
 present manufactured. 
 
 Artijicinl Wood for Ornamental Pur- 
 poses. Mix very fine sawdust with bul- 
 locks' blood and subject the paste to 
 hydraulic pressure. Great varieties of 
 articles, having the appearance of the 
 most beautiful ebony carvings, can be 
 thus pressed in strong, suitable moulds. 
 This process may also be used in the 
 manufacture of brushes. The horse- 
 hair is set into the paste while it is still 
 soft. This is then covered with a per- 
 forated plate to allow the passage of the 
 hair. Pressure is now applied whereby 
 brushes of one piece are produced 
 which are more durable and cheaper 
 than those manufactured by the old 
 process. [A composition of this char- 
 acter, called by its inventor " hseniosite," 
 is largely utilized in this country for 
 the production of door-knobs and other 
 articles. W.] 
 
 Use of Wood Tar for Architect i/ r>tf 
 Decorations. Prepare a mass by melt- 
 ing together 80 parts of wood tar, 20 of 
 pine rosin, and 5 of caoutchouc. Add 
 to this a sufficient quantity of chalk, 
 marl, burned clay, or a mixture of these 
 earths, to give it the necessary consist- 
 ency. The moulds employed for shap- 
 ing the mass into such 'architectural 
 ornaments for which formerly plaster 
 of Paris and stone were used, must be 
 oiled or greased before the mass, which 
 should be somewhat heated, is pressed 
 into them. Ffags for sidewalks or 
 tiles for roofs may also be produced 
 from this mass. It can be readily 
 painted with any desired color. 
 
 To Produce Vmuments from Wood 
 Mass. A cheap composition for mould- 
 ing mirror and picture-frames, rosettes, 
 arabesques, etc., is made of sawdust 
 and glue with the addition of other 
 suitable substances. The sawdust 
 
 should be sifted to remove coarse parti- 
 cles. Boil 5 parts of good furniture 
 glue and 1 of isinglass in such a 
 quantity of water that the fluid in cool- 
 ing does not form an actual jelly. 
 Strain it through a cloth and, while 
 hot, mix it with a sufficient quantity of 
 sawdust to form a quite stiff paste. 
 Press this carefully with the fingers 
 into the moulds, "which should be 
 greased with oil, place an oiled plate 
 or plunger over it, load this down with 
 weights, or place the whole under a 
 press. "When the mass in the moulds 
 is about half dry, remove the moisture 
 which has been pressed out, take the 
 ornaments out by inverting the moulds 
 upon a board, and allow them to be- 
 come entirely dry, when they may be 
 gilded or bronzed. If the ornaments 
 are to be fastened upon oblique surfaces 
 they must be bent and laid on before 
 they are entirely dry. 
 
 The mass may be made of various 
 components. Gum tragacanth may be 
 added to the glue, and pulverized chalk 
 and similar substances to the sawdust. 
 Mixtures containing very little or no 
 sawdust are also used for the same 
 purpose. We give in the following a 
 few receipts for such compositions : 
 
 I. Dissolve 13 parts of glue in the 
 necessary quantity of water ; then stir 
 into it 4 parts of pulverized litharge, 8 
 of white lead, 1 of fine sawdust, and 10 
 of plaster of Paris. 
 
 II. Mix plaster of Paris and sawdust 
 and form a paste of the required con- 
 sistency by adding glue water. 
 
 III. Liquefy 2 parts of glue in 2 of 
 linseed-oil ; then melt 1 part of black 
 pitch in 2 of oil of turpentine ; mix the 
 two solutions together and add 2 parts 
 of sawdust, 2 of whiting, and 2 of colco- 
 thar. 
 
 IV. Mix 8 parts of whiting, 4 of fine 
 sifted sawdust and 1 of pulverized lin- 
 seed-oil cake, and knead the mixture 
 into a paste with a strong solution of 
 glue. 
 
 V. Melt together 4 parts of turpen- 
 tine and 1 of white pitch, and mix it, 
 while hot, with 4 parts of glue boiled 
 thick. To this mixture add gradually 
 8 parts of whiting, 4 of fine shavings or 
 sanders wood, and 1 of copal varnish, 
 and knead the whole thoroughly. A 
 thick solution of asphaltuni in turpen- 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 tine may be used instead of the copal 
 varnish. 
 
 The two masses given under III. and 
 V. must be kneaded before they are 
 pressed. 
 
 VI. Knead 5 parts of chalk with 1 
 of glue, and add oil of turpentine to the 
 mixture. In working the mass a suffi- 
 cient quantify of linseed-oil varnish is 
 add.. j d to prevent it from sticking to the 
 hands. 
 
 VII. The potato paste consists of 
 potatoes boiled in water or by steam 
 until done. They are then mashed fine 
 and mixed with sawdust, peat dust, or 
 pulverized tan, and worked into a 
 pliant dough. 
 
 To Fasten Leather Ornaments, etc., 
 upon Metal. Digest 1 part of crushed 
 nut-galls for 6 hours with 8 of distilled 
 water and strain the mass. Soak glue 
 in its own weight of water for 24 hours 
 and then dissolve it. The warm infu- 
 sion of galls is spread upon the leather 
 and the glue solution on the roughened 
 surface of the warm metal ; the moist 
 leather is pressed upon it and then 
 dried, when it adheres so that it cannot 
 be removed without tearing. 
 
 To Decorate Tin with Copper Plates 
 and Lithographs. Prepare a printing- 
 ink of linseed oil and lampblack and 
 apply it to the etched parts of the 
 plate after it has been heated. The 
 superfluous ink is wiped off and the 
 plate cleaned with lye. Dampened 
 paper is laid upon the plate and cov- 
 ered with a cloth folded several times 
 and pressed. The paper is carefully 
 removed, moistened, and laid upon the 
 tin, upon which the picture is imprinted 
 by means of a small cloth-covered roller, 
 and the paper removed. The same 
 process is used for lithographs. The 
 decorated plates are heated in an oven 
 to 18-; F., and remain from 12 to 18 
 hours, when they are coated with a 
 solution of copal lacquer, varnish, oil 
 of turpentine, and alkanet (coloring 
 matter obtained from the roots of An- 
 chusa Tinctoria], and placed in an oven 
 (280.4 F.) and kept for 12 hours. 
 
 By properly regulating the tempera- 
 ture of the oven, every desired color of 
 silver-white, brass, gold, tombac, etc., 
 can be obtained by the use of alkanet. 
 
 Impressions of Flowers on Glass. 
 Gurn the articles and fasten them on 
 
 the glass. The glass is then coated 
 with a warm mixture of oil, tallow, and 
 wax, and when this is dry the articles 
 are removed and the glass exposed to 
 the action of hydrofluoric gas. Solution 
 of hydrofluoric acid in water may also 
 be poured over the glass, or the plate 
 may be covered with a paste of fluor- 
 spar and sulphuric acid. The designs 
 may then be colored by burning the 
 colors in in a, furnace. 
 
 DENTIFRICES AND MOUTH WASHES. 
 
 American Tooth Powder. Mix the 
 following ingredients, which should be 
 finely powdered : 
 
 Coral 250 parts. 
 
 Cuttle bone (ossa sepia) .... 250 ' ' 
 
 Dragon blood i!50 " 
 
 Burnt alum 120 " 
 
 Red sanders wood 120 " 
 
 Orris root 250 " 
 
 Cloves 15 ' 
 
 Cinnamon 15 ' 
 
 Vanilla rubbed with sugar ... 4 " 
 
 Rosewood 15 " 
 
 Piuks 250 " 
 
 Asiatic Dentifrice. Powder and mix : 
 
 I. II. 
 
 Parts. 
 
 Prepared corals 120 Bole . . . 
 
 Venetian red 9 Chalk . . 
 
 Ochre ... 15 Ochre . . 
 
 Pumice stone 15 Pumice stone 
 
 Musk ... T gj5 Musk 
 
 Parts. 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 trace. 
 
 Cartwright's Tooth Powder. Powder 
 and mix : 
 
 Prepared chalk 30 parts. 
 
 Orris root 20 " 
 
 Castile soap 2 " 
 
 Deschamp's Alkaline Tooth Poirder. 
 Powder as fine as possible and mix : 
 
 Sugar 30 parta 
 
 "A r ood charcoal 30 " 
 
 Prtrnv'aH bark 15 " 
 
 (/earn of tartar 5 " 
 
 Cinnamon 1.5 " 
 
 Desch amp's Acid Tooth Powder. Pow- 
 der and mix : 
 
 Venetian talc 120 parts. 
 
 Sodium bicarbonate 30 
 
 Carmine T % part. 
 
 And add : 
 Oil of mint 
 
 15 drops 
 
DYEING WOOLLEN AND COTTON GOODS, ETC. 
 
 95 
 
 Tooth Powder. Powder 
 
 Charcoal 
 and mix : 
 
 "Willow-wood charcoal 120 parts. 
 
 Peruvian bark 120 " 
 
 Cloves 2 " 
 
 Circassian Tooth Powder. Powder 
 and mix : 
 
 Prepared buck's horn 60 parts. 
 
 Potassium sulphate 00 
 
 "White cuttle bone 250 
 
 Orris root 2f0 
 
 Yellow sanders wood 30 
 
 Florentine lac 90 
 
 And add : 
 
 Oil of rosewood 1 part. 
 
 Red Tooth Powder. Powder and 
 mix: 
 
 Round lake 5 parts. 
 
 Onlinary alum 24 " 
 
 Pumice stone 33 " 
 
 Pre-pared cuttle bone 33 " 
 
 Magnesia alba . 16 " 
 
 Hufeland's Tooth Powder, which may 
 be especially recommended for diseased 
 gums, is prepared by mixing and pow- 
 dering : 
 
 Sanders wood 200 parts. 
 
 Peruvian bark 25 " 
 
 Oil of cloves 1 part. 
 
 Paris Tooth Powder. Convert the 
 following ingredients into an impalpa- 
 ble powder and mix : 
 
 Dragon blood 16. 5 parts. 
 
 Cuttle bone 125 
 
 Cream of tartar 6^.5 " 
 
 Orris root 125 
 
 Prepared buck's horn .... 66.5 " 
 
 And add : 
 
 Oil of clores 15 drops. 
 
 Mouth Wash for Strengthening the 
 Teeth and Hardening the Gums. Pow- 
 der and mix myrrh, camphor, Peruvian 
 bark, each 1 ounce, and digest them for 
 a few days in 1 pound of spirit of wine. 
 Then strain through a cloth and filter. 
 Use a teaspoonful daily for rinsing the 
 mouth. 
 
 Month Wash a gainst Toothache. Cut 
 in pieces and rub fine 4 J drachms of the 
 root of Spanish camomile (ant hem is 
 pyrethrum) and 2J drachms of sal- 
 ammoniac. Pour 2J ounces each of 
 vinegar and lavender water over the 
 above mixture, in a glass flask, and let 
 it digest for 12 hours, and filter. Hold 
 
 a teaspoonful in the mouth as long as 
 possible. 
 
 Antiseptic Mouth Paste. Salicylic 
 acid* 30 grains, purified honey 1 ounce. 
 
 Kolbe's Mouth Wash. 
 
 Salicylic acid 12 parta, 
 
 Alcohol (96 per cent.) 315 " 
 
 Distilled water 60 " 
 
 Oil of wintei green (ol. gmtUheriie) 10 to 15 dropg. 
 Essence of orange flowers ... 15 " 
 
 Color with tincture of cochineal. 
 
 Hager'sRed Tooth Powder. Sodium 
 sal icy late 2| drachms, sugar of milk, 
 sodium bicarbonate, orris root, red san- 
 ders wood, each Hi drachms, and oil 
 of peppermint 15 drops. 
 
 1 lager's Tooth Paste. Two and three- 
 quarter drachms sodium salicylate, 30 
 grains sodium bicarbonate, H ounces 
 each of powdered talc and powdered 
 Castile soap, carmine 4^ grains, 20 drops 
 peppermint, 5i drachms glycerine, and 
 5i drachms diluted spirit of wine are 
 made into a paste. 
 
 Quillaya Dentifrice. The following 
 is one of the best of modern dentifrices, 
 as it not only cleanses the teeth thor- 
 oughly, but also refreshes the mouth : 
 
 Quillaya saponaria 4 ounces. 
 
 Glycerine 3 " 
 
 Diluted alcohol 33 " 
 
 Oil of wintergreen (ol. ganMterix) . 20 drops. 
 
 Oil of peppermint 20 ' 
 
 The quillaya saponaria is macerated 
 in a mixture of the glycerine and alco- 
 hol, and then filtered over a small 
 quantity of magnesia which has been 
 mixed with the oils. A finer prepara- 
 tion is obtained in this manner than by 
 macerating the quillaya in alcohol and 
 then adding the glycerine. 
 
 DYEING WOOLLEN AND COTTON 
 GOODS AND YARNS, SILK, STRAW 
 HATS, FELT HATS, KID GLOVES, 
 HORSEHAIR, ETC., ETC. MORDANTS. 
 
 SILK. Cleansing of Old Silk to be 
 Dyed. Boil 2 pounds of the silk in 3i 
 ounces of crystallized soda dissolved in 
 
 * Benzoic or boracic acid, bei?)g more soluble 
 in water than salicylic acid, is preferred by 
 many as a substitute in all tooth powders and 
 pastes in which salicylic acid is prescribed. 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 a sufficient quantity of water, aud iiext 
 in soap aud water. 
 
 Black. Let the material remain in 
 a mordant of solution of nitrate of 
 iron of 40 Beaume for } hour ; then 
 rinse and dye it in a decoction of 31 
 pounds of logwood and 1 pound of fus- 
 tic. It remains in the dye-bath for 
 i hour. 
 
 Blue (Raymond's). Mordant with 
 solution of nitrate of iron of 1 to 2 
 Beaume, rinse the material, place it in a 
 hot soap bath, and rinse again ; then it 
 is dyed with prussiate of potasli and 
 sulphuric acid. It is then rinsed, 
 brightened in cold water containing 
 some spirit of sal-ammoniac, and finally 
 rinsed, 
 
 Brown (Fast with Madder). Mor- 
 dant in a mixture of 3 parts of acetate 
 of alumina and 2 of acetate of iron, 
 each 5 Beaume. Then rinse and dry 
 the material and dye with madder. 
 
 Crimson, (Dark, with Cochineal and 
 Brazil Wood). Mordant with acetate 
 of alumina of 6 Beaume, to which 1 to 
 1J ounces of blue vitriol dissolved in 
 water have been added ; then winch 
 and dry the material, cleanse it in a 
 bath of bran and chalk, and dye it in a 
 hot, but not boiling, decoction of 31 
 pounds of Brazil wood, 13 ounces of 
 cochineal, and 1 pound of wheat bran. 
 It remains in the bath for 1 hour, when 
 it is rinsed in a bath of spirit of sal- 
 ammoniac. 
 
 Drab (Fast). Mordant with a cold 
 decoction of 3J pounds of sulphuric 
 acid, 8J ounces of blue vitriol, a like 
 quantity of common salt, and 4V ounces 
 of purified tartar. Squeeze and rinse 
 and then dye in water not hotter than 
 the hand can bear, which contains a 
 decoction of fustic (for yellowish gray), 
 or decoction of gall-nuts ( for dark gray), 
 or of bablah (for greenish gray). 
 
 Gray. Place the silk in a* solution 
 of 2 pounds of alum, and let it remain 
 in it for 6 to 8 hours. Then rinse it, 
 and dye in a bath containing indigo ex- 
 tract and decoction of logwood, allowing 
 it to remain for 1 hour. 
 
 Red (Fast ivith Madder). Mordant 
 with acetate of alumina of 5 Beau me. 
 Winch, dry, and cleanse the silk with 
 bran and chalk. Then dye in a bath 
 of 6^ pounds of madder, 8J ounces of 
 sumach, and 1 pounds of bran, allow- 
 
 ing it to remain for li hours, when it 
 is brightened by boiling gently for i 
 hour with 31 pounds of Castile soap, 
 1 pound of bran, raid 2 ounces of solu- 
 tion of nitro-muriate of tin. 
 
 Rose-red (with (Jarthainiwe). Tru- 
 rate 1 drachm of carthamine with 1J 
 ounces of alum free from iron, and dye 
 with the mixture dissolved in water. 
 The silk is worked for 15 minutes in 
 the bath, and then in a bath acidulated 
 with wine vinegar. 
 
 Rose-red (with Cochineal). Prepare 
 a mordant of 2 pounds of alum, let the 
 silk remain in this for 6 to 8 hours, then 
 rinse it and dye (as hot as the hand can 
 bear) with 1 ounce of cochineal, and 
 rinse. 
 
 Scarlet'(with Cochineal and Brazil 
 Wood). Mordant with acetate of alu- 
 mina of 6 Beaume ; winch and dry. 
 Then work the silk in a hot, but not 
 boiling, decoction of 31 pounds of bran 
 and 8i ounces of chalk ; rinse, and dye 
 with 31 pounds of Brazil wood and 8J 
 ounces of cochineal. An addition of 1 
 pound of bran makes the dye more 
 brilliant, but somewhat lighter. 
 
 Violet (Fast). Mordant with a cold 
 solution of 31 pounds of sulphuric acid, 
 8% ounces of blue vitriol, a like quantity 
 of common salt, and 4i ounces of puri- 
 fied tartar. Winch, dry, and cleanse 
 with bran and chalk. Then dye in a 
 nearly hot bath of 6 pounds of madder 
 and U pounds of bran, allowing the 
 silk to remain for 1 hour. 
 
 WOOLLEN GOODS AND YARNS. 
 
 Blue (Dark). Boil the material for 
 1 hour in a solution of 21 ounces of 
 alum in hot water, then take it out and 
 throw away the bath. Now boil in the 
 same boiler 5| ounces of logwood 
 in pure water for hour; then lift 
 the bag which contained the logwood 
 out, and place the material, which has 
 been previously washed, into the de- 
 coction, work it for hour, and then 
 let it boil for * hour longer. The 
 bath is now cooled off by adding cold 
 water, the material lifted out, and 21 
 ounces of potash are dissolved in the 
 bath, when the material is worked in it 
 until it has assumed a beautiful blue 
 color. 
 
DYEING WOOLLEN AND COTTON GOODS, ETC. 
 
 97 
 
 Bine (Dark Fugitive Color}. The 
 goods are mordanted pale blue and 
 washed. Boil clear water, and add 5* 
 ounces of blue vitriol, U ounces of green 
 vitriol, 1 pound of alum, 13i ounces of 
 crude tartar, 2.} ounces of tin salt, and 
 1 ounce of crude nitric acid. Boil the 
 goods in the mixture for 1 hour. They 
 are then lifted out, allowed to stand for 
 
 I day, and washed. Clean water is 
 then heated in a boiler, 2 / pints of ex- 
 tract of logwood added, and the goods 
 worked in this for i hour, during which 
 the heat is raised to the boiling point. 
 From 27 to 33 pounds of woollen 
 goods can be dyed by the above pro- 
 cess. 
 
 Gens d'Armes Blue on loose Wool, 
 Yarns, and Piece Goods. Boil for li 
 hours 440 pounds of wool with 88 
 pounds of alum, 8* pounds of chromate 
 of potash, 8* pounds of tin salt, and (5V 
 pounds of sulphuric acid. The next 
 day dye with 65 pounds of indigo-car- 
 mine/22 to 26 pounds of logwood, and 
 13 pounds of common salt. Let the 
 wool boil for IV hours in the bath. 
 
 Brown (Chestnut). Boil in pure 
 water for 5 minutes ounce of madder, 
 a like quantity of sumach or i ounce of 
 gall-nuts, i ounce of tartar, and 1J to 
 2{ ounces of sanders wood. Place the 
 goods in the bath, and let them boil for 
 
 I 1 hours. Then lift them out, cool the 
 bath by adding cold water; then dis- 
 solve i- ounce of green vitriol in it, 
 and work the wool in this for hour 
 longer. 
 
 Brown (Coffee}. Boil in pure water 
 for 5 minutes 4 > ounces of sanders wood 
 2| ounces of sumach or gall-nuts, and 1 
 ounce of green vitriol. The bath is 
 cooled off by adding cold water, when 
 the goods are placed in it and boiled 
 slowly for half an hour, when they are 
 taken out and the fire is extinguished ; 
 2\ ounces of green vitriol are then 
 dissolved in the bath, in which the 
 goods aro worked for J of an hour, 
 when they are cooled off and rinsed. 
 
 Brown (Dark). Boil in water 4J 
 ounces of sanders wood and 2i ounces 
 of logwood, add 2i ounces of sumach or 
 gall-nuts, and 1 ounce of green vitriol. 
 Cool the mixture by adding cold water, 
 then place the goods in it and let them 
 boil slowly for hour, when they 
 are taken out. Should the dye not 
 
 be dark enough, add 1 ounce more of 
 
 i green vitriol, and repeat the opera- 
 
 I tion. 
 
 Jjrmcn (Grayish). Boil 1 ounce of 
 sanders wood, a like quantity of mad- 
 
 | der, and li ounces of gall-nuts, or 3 
 ounces of sumach. Place the goods in 
 the decoction and boil them for 1 hour. 
 Then lift them out, dissolve 1 ounce of 
 green vitriol in the bath, replace the 
 goods in it, and work them, without 
 allowing them to boil, until they are 
 dyed sufficiently dark. 
 
 Brown (A'nt). Fill a small bag with 
 4J ounces of fustic and li ounces of log- 
 wood, and boil them. When the color- 
 ing matter has been extracted lift the 
 bag out and add li ounces of madder 
 and a like quantity of sanders wood; 
 then place the goods m the bath and 
 let them boil for 14 hours, when they 
 are lifted out. The bath is now cooled 
 off with cold water and \ ounce of green 
 vitriol is added. The wool is worked 
 in it until it is sufficiently dyed. 
 
 Brown (Olive). Treat the following 
 ingredients in the same manner as for 
 nut brown : Seven ounces of fustic, 21 
 ounces of logwood, 1 ounce of gall-nuts, 
 2i ounces of madder, and 3-> ounces of 
 tartar. As soon as the tartar is dis- 
 solved place the goods in the bath, and, 
 later on, when it is somewhat cooled 
 off, add 1J ounces of green vitriol and 
 work the wool in the vat until it has 
 assumed the desired shade. 
 
 Brown (Sanders Wood, Fast). Thor- 
 oughly extract 4 pounds of rasped 
 sanders wood i n water. Place the wood, 
 together with the extract, in a boiler, 
 add 2i pounds of sumach and 2i pounds 
 of fustic liquor, and let the bath boil 
 for i hour. Then place the wool in 
 the bath, work it thoroughly, and let 
 it boil for 1A hours. The wool is then 
 lifted out, the bath cooled off by adding 
 cold water, and 1 pound of green vitriol 
 added, w r hen the wool is placed back 
 into the bath, thoroughly worked in 
 it, and boiled for hour more. It 
 is then lifted out, 4i ounces more of 
 green vitriol and a bucketful of urine 
 are added, and the wool worked in this 
 without allowing it to boil. 
 
 Chamois. Triturate i ounce of an- 
 notto with water and add to this fluid 
 \ ounce of potash. Let the bath boii 
 
 i for 5 minutes and then work the wool 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 in it. Now dissolve in warm water If 
 ounces of alum, and work the wool for 
 a few minutes in this solution. 
 
 Gray (Ash). Boil f ounce of gall- 
 nuts in a suitable quantity of water for 
 J of an hour. Then dissolve in it i 
 ounce of tartar, place the wool in the 
 bath and let it boil for 1 hour, fre- 
 quently stirring it in the meanwhile, 
 when it is lifted out. The bath is then 
 thoroughly cooled, 1 ounces of green 
 vitriol are added, and the wool worked 
 in it until it has assumed the desired 
 shade of color. 
 
 Gray (Bluish). Boil 12 ounces of 
 gall-nuts, 4 ounces of tartar, and i 
 fluid drachm of indigo tincture. Place 
 the cloth, previously moistened, in this 
 mixture and let it boil for H hours, 
 with frequent working. It is then lifted 
 out and the bath compounded with 4V 
 ounces of green vitriol and the cloth 
 worked in it for i hour longer. 
 
 Gray (Dark). Put 1 pound of log- 
 wood and 13i ounces of sumac in a 
 small bag and boil them for i hour in 
 a boiler full of water. Then take the 
 bag out, place 13 pounds of cloth, pre- 
 viously moistened with hot water, in 
 the bath, and let it boil for 1 hour, 
 when it is lifted out. The bath is then 
 cooled by adding cold water ; 8i ounces 
 of greeu vitriol are added, and the 
 goods worked in it for hour, and then 
 boiled until they have acquired the de- 
 sired shade. 
 
 Gray (Fast Dark). The cloth is first 
 grounded blue with indigo and then 
 boiled in a solution of 85 ounces of blue 
 vitriol, 4fc ounces of tartar, and some 
 indigo tincture. 
 
 Gray (Light). Rub 1 ounce of ver- 
 digris as fine as possible with 3i pounds 
 of good vinegar; let the fluid stand 
 over night and boil it the next day with 
 water. Add to the solution 1 ounce of 
 gum Arabic and work the goods in it un- 
 til they have acquired the desired shade. 
 
 Gray (Silver). Boil for 10 minutes 
 i ounce of tartar, J ounee of gall-nuts, 
 and 1 drachm of blue vitriol. Work 
 the wool in this bath and then let it 
 boil until the desired color has been 
 obtained. 
 
 Green (Olive). The goods are first 
 grounded light blue. One pound of 
 fustic is then tied in a small bag, placed 
 iu a boiler, and boiled for 1 hour, when 
 
 it is taken out and 3i ounces of bin* 
 vitriol, 2i ounces of tartar, 3i ounces of 
 madder, and 1| ounces of logwood 
 liquor are dissolved in the bath. The 
 goods are then placed in the bath and 
 boiled for 1 hour, when they are lifted 
 out. Four and one-half ounces of 
 crushed gall-nuts are now added to the 
 liquor and the goods boiled in this for 
 i hour more, when they are taken out. 
 The bath is now compounded with If 
 ounces of green vitriol and some urine, 
 and the goods are worked in this until 
 they are sufficiently dyed. 
 
 Green (Brownish-olive). Boil 2J 
 ounces of fustic and 1 ounce of madder, 
 then add to the fluid 2i ounces of tar- 
 tar and 1 drachm of gall-nuts. Place 
 the goods in the bath, let them boil for 
 li hours, take them out and cool them 
 off in the open air. The bath is cooled 
 by adding cold water, and compounded 
 with i ounce of green vitriol, when the 
 goods are placed back in it, worked for 
 I hour, cooled off, and rinsed. 
 
 Lilac. Dissolve 3 ounce of crystal- 
 lized tartar and 2J ounces of alum in 
 hot water, add i ounce of pulverized 
 cochineal to the solution, work the 
 goods in the bath for hour, and then 
 boil them for i hour. 
 
 Orange. Put 1 pound of quercitron 
 bark in a small bag and boil it for 
 i hour in a boilerful of water. Then 
 add to the fluid 1 pound of alum, 
 ounce of tartar, and 2| ounces of tin 
 salt. Boil the cloth in the bath for i 
 hour ; cool the bath off, work the cloth 
 once more, let it again boil for half an 
 hour, and then wash it out. Now boil 
 S.T ounces of madder with water, and 
 work the cloth in the bath with con- 
 stantly increasing temperature. 
 
 Yellow (Dark). Place 3i pounds of 
 quercitron bark in a bag, boil it in a 
 tin boilerful of water for i hour. Then 
 add 2 pounds of alum, 1 ounce of tartar, 
 and 8S ounces of tin salt. Now boil 
 the goods in the bath for 8 to 10 min- 
 utes, when they are taken out. Cool 
 :the bath by adding cold water, work 
 the wool once more in it, and then let 
 it boil for i hour. 
 
 Yellow (Sulphur). Go through the 
 same process as for dark yellow, but 
 add, when that is finished, quercitron 
 bark and solution of tin to the bath ami 
 let the wool boil in it for i hour. 
 
DYEING WOOLLEN AND COTTON GOODS, ETC. 
 
 Yellow (with Weld). Dissolve 5i 
 pounds of alum in a corresponding 
 quantity of water and boil the woollen 
 goods in this for 2 hours, when they are 
 put in a cool place, where they remain 
 for 1 day and are then washed. Now 
 sew 31 pounds of good French weld in 
 a bag, boil it in a boilerful of water, 
 cool the liquor, and work the wool 
 thoroughly in this, without allowing it 
 to boil. 
 
 COTTON GOODS AND YARNS. 
 
 Black. For 10 pounds of yarn. Pre- 
 pare a lukewarm bath of 1 pound of 
 dry extract of logwood and 12 quarts of 
 water. Dissolve further 2 pounds of 
 dry extract of logwood in 2 gallons of 
 water. Now dye 2 pounds of the yarn 
 in this dye-bath, take it out, wring it, 
 and let it dry in the open air. One- 
 quarter of the first solution is then 
 added to the bath, and the second of 
 the yarn treated therein. The same 
 process is repeated with the remaining 
 yarn until all the solution has been 
 used. 
 
 No. II. Prepare a bath by dissolving 
 8| ounces of bichromate of potash and 2 
 ounces of crystallized soda in 2 gallons 
 of water. After the first part of the 
 yarn has been taken from the dye-bath, 
 1 of the solution is added to it ; the next 
 portion of the yarn is dyed, and so on. 
 
 Brwon (Chocolate). For 10 pounds. 
 Boil the material for 1 hour with li 
 pounds of sanders wood, 8J ounces of 
 gall-nuts, 1J ounces of extract of log- 
 wood, 51 ounces of prepared catechu, 
 and 3i ounces of tartar. After boiling 
 let it remain in the bath for 1 hour, 
 then add a solution of 8f ounces of 
 green vitriol and If ounces of blue vit- 
 riol ; mix them intimately with the 
 bath and place the material in it for 1 
 hour longer, when it is taken out and 
 rinsed. 
 
 Chamois. For 10 pounds. Treat the 
 materials, after they have been pre- 
 pared for dyeing, in a warm decoction 
 of 4V ounces of annotto and 11 ounces of 
 potash * lift them out, rinse, and then 
 work them in fresh water mixed with 
 sulphuric acid, and rinse. 
 
 Crimson. For 10 pounds. Eed yarns 
 are boiled in clean water. Place them 
 in a bath of 2 pounds of sumac. Let 
 
 them remain for 12 hours, then place 
 them in a bath of tin salt of 3 Beaume. 
 Allow them to remain for 1 hour, when 
 they are winched and brought into a 
 bath of 31 pounds of Brazil wood. Here 
 they remain for several hours, when 
 they are winched and dried. 
 
 Gold Color (Cotton for Fringes, etc.). 
 Boil, with constant stirring, 8} ounces 
 of sugar of lead and 1 pound of litharge 
 in 3 gallons of water. After the fluid 
 has boiled for 5 to 10 minutes allow it 
 to stand quietly until a precipitate is 
 deposited, then pour the fluid off" and 
 mordant the yarn in this. When thor- 
 oughly permeated it is dried at a uni- 
 form heat, and then, without being 
 washed, dyed in a bath of bichromate 
 of potash. For the above-mentioned 
 quantities a bath is used of 8} ounces 
 of bichromate of potash, to which 41 
 ounces of nitric acid have been added. 
 To produce a perfectly pure chrome 
 yellow the bath must be entirely clear. 
 If it has been used the clear liquor must 
 be drawn off from the sediment. As" 
 soon as the yarn is taken from the bath 
 it is washed for 1 hour in a stream of 
 running water to remove all traces of 
 chrome yellow adhering mechanically 
 to it. To produce a beautiful golden 
 lustre dissolve 1 ounce of saffron in 2 
 pounds of spirit of wine of 20 Beaume^ 
 and add to the solution a sufficient 
 quantity of fruit brandy to produce the 
 desired shade. As a general rule 2 
 minutes are sufficient for the yarn to 
 remain in this solution. The excessive 
 moisture is wrung out and the yarn 
 dried in the shade at a moderate heat. 
 The yarn, as it comes from the safl'ron 
 bath, must not be washed, as the color 
 becomes dull in hard water containing 
 lime and the yarn rough. 
 
 Gray (Silver). Boil the yarn in 
 clean water and bring it into a wooden 
 vat containing hot water and 8| ounces 
 of catechu boiled in 3V quarts of clean 
 water. Work the yarn in this bath 
 for i hour and wring it. Now fill 
 a vat with clean cold water; add to 
 this 2 ounces of green vitriol dissolved 
 in hot water. Work the yarn in this 
 until it has acquired the desired color, 
 then rinse and dry it. 
 
 Green (Dark). Boil 5 pounds of 
 fustic in pure water for f of an hour, and 
 add 51 ounces of verdigris dissolved in 
 
too 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 water. Treat the material in a bath 
 of 11 pounds of sumac, and place it 
 for J hour in the liquor heated to 
 190 F. and boil for a few minutes ; 
 then lift out and wring. The dyed 
 material is brought into a vat contain- 
 ing hot water and extract of logwood 
 and worked for hour at 190 F. and 
 rinsed. 
 
 Mineral Green. Prepare a lye of 
 caustic potash by dissolving in a 
 wooden vat 1 parts of potash in water 
 and gradually adding 2J parts of 
 feurned lime to the solution. The 
 liquor is then thoroughly stirred, and 
 allowed to stand quietly for 12 hours, 
 when the clear fluid is drawn oiF into a 
 vat filled with cold water. Twenty-five 
 parts of the material to be dyed are 
 worked in the liquor for i hour, when 
 it is winched, and dyed in a hot bath to 
 which have been added 1 parts of sul- 
 phate of copper dissolved in hot water ; 
 here it remains for hour, when it 
 is winched and dried. 
 
 Yellow. Dissolve 1 ounce of sugar 
 of lead and ounce of alum in warm 
 water ; place 1 pound of material in 
 this bath, work it for some time, and 
 finish the dyeing process in a solution 
 of chromate of potash. 
 
 Yellow ( Chrome). For 15 pounds of 
 yarn or cloth. I. Slack 6 pounds of 
 freshly burned lime in 50 gallons of 
 water, and then dissolve 3 pounds of 
 sugar of lead in the liquor. 
 
 II. Stir 3 pounds of acetate of lead 
 into 2 gallons of water and slake 6 
 pounds of freshly burned lime in the 
 liquor. The plumbiferous lime formed 
 in this manner is brought into 50 gal- 
 lons of water and the fluid allowed to 
 become clear by standing, when it is 
 ready for use. 
 
 The cotton material is then moistened 
 twice in succession with one of the 
 above fluids, and, while still moist, 
 brought into a bath of chromate of 
 potash. This gives a beautiful chrome 
 yellow color. 
 
 A beautiful green is obtained by dye- 
 ing indigo-blue cotton goods in the 
 above manner. 
 
 To DYE WOOL, SILK, AND COTTON 
 WITH ANILINE COLORS. 
 
 Fuchsine on Wool. In using aniline 
 
 colors it is of the greatest advantage to 
 transform them by dissolution into a 
 very much diluted fluid. For instance 
 fuchsine, soluble in water, is dissolved 
 with gradual stirring in boiling water 
 in the proportion of 2 pounds of crys- 
 tallized fuchsine in 60 gallons of water. 
 The resulting solution is filtered and 
 used for dyeing. The wool, uniformly 
 moistened, is dyed without any further 
 preparation in a very clean, tepid 
 bath of 85 F. to which some solution 
 of fuchsine is added from time to time, 
 and the temperature raised to 120 F. 
 Two pounds of fuchsine, soluble in alco- 
 hol, is gradually dissolved in 4 to 4 gal- 
 lons of good spirit of wine of 90 per cent., 
 previously heated to 100 to 120 F., 
 and the solution used for printing and 
 dyeing. For printing on silk and wool 
 the ordinary inspissations are used, 
 such as gum, etc., but on cotton it is 
 necessary to use albumen, which should 
 always be preferred to its substitutes. 
 
 Fuchsine on Silk, Bluish Shade, 
 One of the above-mentioned solutions 
 of fuchsine is added to a cold bath 
 acidulated with acetic or tartaric acid, 
 and the silk dyed in this, with slow 
 addition of color, until the desired 
 shade has been obtained. If less bluish 
 shades are desired, no acid is added to 
 the bath. 
 
 Fuchsine on Cotton. Only thorough- 
 ly mordanted cotton can be well and 
 uniformly dyed with fuchsine. An oil 
 mordant, as for Turkish red, is excel- 
 lent, but, instead of this, an acid mor- 
 dant consisting of 1 part of sulphuric 
 acid and about 3 parts of olive oil may 
 be advantageously used. A tannic 
 acid mordant can also be recommended. 
 The yarn is then brought into a solu- 
 tion of sumac of 120 F., then into a 
 bath of stanuate of soda, and finally 
 into a bath containing sulphuric acid, 
 when it is washed and dyed as given 
 above. 
 
 Eosine on Woo/. Eosine, soluble in 
 water, is dissolved in hot water, and 
 that, soluble in alcohol, in spirit of 
 wine, in the same manner as fuchsine. 
 
 Prepare a water bath of 85 F., add 
 a sufficient quantity of the cosine dis- 
 solved in water, place the thoroughly 
 moistened wool in it and heat to 
 105 F. Then add alum in the pro- 
 portion of 1J to 2| ounces to 2 pounds 
 
DYEING WOOLLEN AND COTTON GOODS, ETC. 
 
 101 
 
 f wool, bring the bath slowly to the 
 boiling point and let it boil for about 
 hour. The wool is then finished by 
 thorough washing. 
 
 The following receipt has been 
 thoroughly tried and found to be excel- 
 lent : For 80 pounds of wool take 3 
 pounds of tartar and 2 pounds of cosine 
 dissolved and filtered through a cloth. 
 Enter the moist wool and let it boil 
 slowly for f hour. The wool is then 
 lifted' out, 2 pounds of chloride of 
 tin is dissolved in the same bath and 
 thoroughly stirred. The wool is again 
 placed in the bath, and slowly boiled 
 for i hour longer. It is best to allow 
 the wool to cool in the boiler. 
 
 Eosine on tii/k. Dye in a boiling soap 
 bath with an addition of an organic 
 acid. 
 
 Eosineon Cotton. For bluish shades, 
 the cotton is placed in a bath of cas- 
 tile soapsuds of 120 F. and allowed 
 to remain in it for i hour. It is 
 then mordanted for \ hour with ni- 
 trate of lead of 3 Beaume, then thor- 
 oughly washed, and finally dyed in 
 a bath of cosine of 120 F. For a 
 yclloirish shade more or less alum, 
 according to the tint desired, is added 
 to the bath of nitrate of lead. Very pure, 
 soft water should be used for all ball is. 
 
 Scarlet and Erythronint on \Yool. 
 Dissolve the color in hot water. Then | 
 prepare a bath of 120 F., which con- 
 tains 10 pounds of alum to 100 pounds 
 of wool, and place the wool in it. After 
 the lapse of i hour add the color- 
 ing matter, bring the bath slowly to 
 the boiling point, and let the wool boil 
 for i hour, when it is taken out and 
 thoroughly washed. 
 
 Violet on Wool. Two pounds of ani- 
 line violet is dissolved with slow stir- 
 ring in 6 to 8 gallons of spirit of wine, 
 90 per cent, strong, the solution heated 
 to 105 F., and then filtered. The wool 
 is dyed in a weak sulphuric acid bath 
 of 105 to 125 F., to which the dye- 
 stuff is added. The bath is slowly 
 brought to the boiling point. A more 
 or less reddish tint can be given by an 
 addition of sulphuric acid. 
 
 Violet on Silk. The silk is placed in 
 a bath of 105 to 125 F., slightly acid- 
 ulated with sulphuric acid, and the 
 desired shade is obtained by slowly 
 adding the dye-stuff. 
 
 Aniline Blue (Blue, Light Blue, and 
 Soluble Blue). The color is dissolved 
 in the same manner as violet, but it is 
 advisable to take more spirit of wine. 
 The soluble blue is dissolved in boiling 
 water. 
 
 On Wool and Silk. The same direc- 
 tions hold good as for violet, but more 
 alum is added and generally more sul- 
 phuric acid. A clearerand more beauti- 
 ful color on wool is obtained by boiling 
 the wool first with chloride of tin and 
 alum. Of all the colors mentioned 
 here, blue is the most difficult to dis- 
 solve in water, and as the fibres do not 
 absorb it uniformly it is requisite that 
 the coloring matter should be added 
 very gradually. 
 
 Cotton is dyed in a bath to which 
 acetate of alumina has been added as a 
 mordant. The acetate of alumina is 
 obtained by boiling 15 parts of sugar 
 of lead and 20 of sulphate of alumina 
 with 100 of water. The resulting clear 
 solution is used as a mordant. 
 
 Alkali Blue. Two pounds of this is 
 dissolved in at least 4 gallons of boiling 
 water, and when the solution is com- 
 plete 15 gallons more of hot water are 
 added to it. 
 
 For 100 pounds of Wool. Prepare 
 a bath with 8i pounds of borax, heat it 
 to 105 F., then add the solution of 
 coloring matter, and gradually heat to 
 the boiling point. The wool is then 
 washed in cold water, placed in a luke- 
 warm bath acidulated with sulphuric 
 acid, and heated to the boiling point. 
 To dye according to sample, dissolved 
 coloring matter is added to the first 
 bath until a sample of the wool, taken 
 from this bath and worked in a boiling 
 hot acid bath, has assumed the desired 
 color. 
 
 A bath of waterglass is now generally 
 preferred to that of borax, 15 pounds 
 of it being required for 100 pounds of 
 wool. The further treatment is the 
 same as with borax. 
 
 Light Blue on Cotton. For 100 
 pounds. The cotton is soaped and 
 dried. A solution of 2 pounds of alum, 
 2 pounds of tartar emetic, and 6 pounds 
 of dissolved calcined soda is used as a 
 mordant. After mordanting the cotton 
 it is dyed in a fresh bath, to which 
 diluted sulphuric acid has been added 
 the temperature being gradually 
 
102 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 from 75 F. to 140 F. The cotton 
 should be cooled off in the bath. 
 
 China-blue on Cotton. The color is 
 dissolved in the same manner as the 
 blue soluble in water. Some alum is 
 added to the tepid water-bath, and the 
 cotton dyed by heating the bath to the 
 boiling point and allowing it to cool 
 in it. 
 
 Dahlia and Primula. These colors 
 are soluble in water and in alcohol. 
 Those soluble in water are dissolved in 
 the same manner as fuchsine, but those 
 soluble in alcohol, like the aniline 
 violet. The wool is dyed with these 
 solutions, without any further prepa- 
 ration, at 85 to 105 F., and, when 
 finished, worked several times in the 
 boiling bath. Silk is dyed with the 
 dissolved and filtered coloring matter 
 in a bath heated to 85 to 105 F., to 
 which a very small quantity of tartaric 
 acid or some sulphuric acid has been 
 added, until it has acquired the desired 
 shade, and is then frequently turned 
 over in the boiling bath. For dyeing 
 cotton, acetate of alumina is added, and 
 the goods treated in the same manner as 
 given for blue. 
 
 Methyl-violet. This is soluble in 
 water. The dyeing is accomplished by 
 adding acetic acid, or some other or- 
 ganic acid. 
 
 Methyl and Emerald-green. Dis- 
 solve 2 pounds of green powder in 7 to 
 8 gallons of lukewarm water ; add, with 
 constant stirring, some acetic acid, and 
 heat the solution to 140 F. Boiling 
 must be strictly avoided. Then dis- 
 solve 2 pounds of concentrated green 
 paste in 3 gallons of alcohol of 90 per 
 cent., and, with constant stirring, add 
 water and some acetic acid, noting that 
 the temperature must not be allowed to 
 rise above 95 F. This solution, as 
 well as that of green powder, is filtered 
 and then used for dyeing. 
 
 For 20 pounds of Wool (Dyed in the 
 Wooden Vat). Dissolve 6 pounds of 
 hyposulphite of sodium, and add 3 
 pounds of hydrochloric acid. Heat the 
 liquor to 105 F., place the wool in the 
 bath, and, with vigorous stirring, heat 
 it to the boiling point. The wool is 
 then lifted out and washed in a fresh, 
 cold bath. Now prepare a fresh, luke- 
 warm bath, and add to it 10 ounces of 
 aoetic acid and 2 pounds of oil soap 
 
 dissolved at 85 F. The wool is placed 
 in this bath, dyed with the above solu- 
 tions at 120 to 140 F., and then thor- 
 oughly washed. 
 
 For dyeing silk, a little acetic acid is 
 added to the bath, and the dyeing ac- 
 complished at a temperature of 110 F. 
 
 Cotton is first brought into a sumach 
 bath, wrung out, and then into a bath 
 of stannate of sodium. It is then placed 
 in the dye-bath heated to 105 F. and 
 weakly acidulated with acetic acid. 
 To obtain yellowish tints on cotton, add 
 picric acid to the bath, or, what is still 
 better, it is dyed with picric acid in a 
 special bath, which can be used again. 
 
 The following receipt for 35 to 45 
 pounds of woollen yarn has been thor- 
 oughly tried and found to be excellent : 
 Add 10 pounds of hyposulphite of so- 
 dium and 5 pounds of hydrochloric acid 
 to a lukewarm bath, enter the wool at 
 120 F., and raise the heat to 160 F. ; 
 then let the yarn stand in the bath for 1 
 hour, when it is thoroughly rinsed. 
 In the wooden vat, the feed pipe of 
 which should be if possible of rubber 
 or glass, as metal must be avoided 
 wherever possible, 95 ounces of methyl- 
 green dissolved and filtered are added, 
 and according to requirement from 3i 
 to 7 ounces of picric acid, and the dye- 
 ing is finished at 105 to 120 F. 
 
 Malachite-green. Dissolve 2 pounds 
 of malachite-green (la.) in about 35 gal- 
 lons of water ; heat, with constant stir- 
 ring, to the boiling point, and, after 
 boiling, filter for 15 minutes. 
 
 Malachite-green on wool is treated in 
 the same manner as given for methyl- 
 green, namely, with hyposulphite of 
 sodium and hydrochloric or sulphuric 
 acid. 
 
 Silk is also dyed in the same manner 
 as given for methyl-green ; but as mala- 
 chite-green is of a more yellowish tint, 
 considerable picric acid may be saved. 
 If that shade is desired, but a very 
 small quantity of the acid need be ad- 
 ded. 
 
 Cotton is mordanted with sumach, 
 then placed in the dye-bath containing 
 tartaric or acetic acid, and dyed at a 
 lukewarm temperature. 
 
 Malachite-green may be highly rec- 
 ommended for printing on cottons, the 
 more so as this color can stand any de- 
 gree of heat and the hottest steam with- 
 
DYEING WOOLLEN AND COTTON GOODS, ETC. 
 
 103 
 
 out changing or losing its shade. To 
 10 pounds of solution of coloring mat- 
 ter add 3 ounces of tannin, and heat 
 to 140 F. 
 
 The same remarks hold good for 
 printing on woollens. Two pounds of 
 malachite-green (la.) dissolved in 7 gal- 
 lons of boiling water are generally used. 
 The solution is filtered, and 7 gallons 
 of gum-water and about 6 pounds of 
 glycerine are added to it. 
 
 Naphthaline Colors. Ponceau, 
 Orange, and Bordeaux. These colors 
 are dissolved in boiling water. 
 
 For 100 pounds of Woollen Yarn. 
 Prepare a bath containing 2 pounds of 
 tartar, heat to 105 F., place the yarn 
 in it, turn it 5 times, and then add the 
 quantity of coloring matter required. 
 After turn-ing it several times add very 
 slowly 5i pounds of the composition of 
 tin given below, bring the yarn to a 
 ; boil, and let it boil for i hour, when 
 it is taken out, cooled off, and thorough- 
 ly washed. The color takes quickly 
 after the composition of zinc is added 
 and becomes very brilliant. 
 
 For 100 pounds of Piece Goods. 
 The goods are placed in the vat at 105 
 F. The bath should contain from 2 to 
 3 per cent, of tannin. The coloring 
 matter and 2 per cent, of composition 
 of tin are then added ; then the goods 
 are strongly boiled for hour, 
 allowed to cool, and thoroughly washed. 
 Even the thickest goods are thor- 
 oughly dyed in this manner. 
 
 Composition of tin is prepared in the 
 following manner: Mix 3 parts of hy- 
 drochloric acid, 1 of nitric acid, and'l 
 of water. The mixture is moderately 
 heated and 1 pound of English granu- 
 lated tin is then added for every 6^ 
 pounds of the mixture. 
 
 Silk is dyed with these magnificent 
 colors in the soap bath, with an addi- 
 tion of some acetic acid and the 
 quantity of coloring matter required. 
 
 Cotton is first soaped and then dried. 
 It is then strongly mordanted for 1 
 hour in acetate of alumina which must 
 be "free from lead," wrung out, and 
 directly dyed in a fresh water-bath to 
 which the dissolved coloring matter has 
 been added. The temperature is raised 
 to the boiling point, and the cotton 
 allowed tocool in the bath. The baths, 
 once prepared, can be used again. 
 
 Acetate of alumina free from lead is 
 prepared as follows : Dissolve 4 parts 
 of sulphate of alumina and 3i of crystal- 
 lized soda in 7 parts of water. Then 
 dissolve 5 parts of sugar of lead in 3J 
 of water. Boil each solution by itself, 
 mix them slowly while lukewarm, and 
 filter this mixture ; then the alumina is 
 ready for use. 
 
 The naphthaline colors, ponceau, 
 Bordeaux, and orange, should be used in 
 a wooden vat or in a well-tinned boiler, 
 and this especially for wool and woollen 
 goods, as unsatisfactory results are 
 obtained by using a copper boiler, as is 
 evident to every practical dyer. The 
 colors will wash and are not changed 
 by atmospheric influences or light. 
 
 To Dye Felt Hats with Aniline 
 Colors. For the dyeing of felt hats 
 aniline colors can be used in every case. 
 The coloring matter is used repeatedly 
 to make the shade satisfactory. If the 
 dyeing follows the fulling, the felt is 
 not penetrated so easily, but the hair 
 cart be directly dyed, and the dyed hair 
 fulled. For this purpose a solution of 
 the dye is made in boiling water, then 
 allowed to cool, and filtered. A pan 
 with water heated to 85 F. is prepared, 
 the necessary quantity of coloring mat- 
 ter added ; the mixture thoroughly 
 stirred up, and the hair, moistened and 
 ei? closed in a basket, is placed in the 
 bath. The bath is heated to 140 F. 
 and the basket agitated continually. 
 Fresh coloring matter is introduced 
 when the hair has absorbed a certain 
 amount, the basket being for the time 
 removed. 
 
 When the hair is fully dyed, the 
 basket is lifted out and the hair 
 allowed to cool and well rinsed. Mixt- 
 ures of aniline colors may be used for 
 particular tints. For brown, cerise, 
 merron, etc., are used. These give with 
 indigo-carmine and picric acid, with 
 addition of a little sulphuric acid, beau- 
 tiful brown shades. For the prepara- 
 tion of the favorite "Bismarck" a solu- 
 tion of Manchester brown can be used, 
 which is toned down by addition of 
 indigo-carmine, picric acid, and fuch- 
 sine. 
 
 To Dye Felted Fabrics with Ani- 
 line Colors. In making felted fabrics 
 of a mixture of animal and vegetable 
 fibres, it is found difficult to dye them 
 
104 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK, 
 
 evenly, as the vegetable fibre does not 
 take the dye equally with the animal. 
 To overcome this difficulty the vege- 
 table matter is neutralized by subject- 
 ing the felted fabric to an acid bath of 
 from 6 to 12 Beaume, and then wash- 
 ing to remove the acid, after which the 
 fabric will dye an even tint. 
 
 To Dye Mot her- of -Pear I with Aniline 
 Colors. Wash the thin plates with 
 lukewarm solution of potash, then 
 place them in a concentrated aqueous 
 solution of the coloring matter, and let 
 them stand in a warm place, frequently 
 stirring them. If the dye is to pene- 
 trate to some depth the plates must re- 
 main in the coloring matter for two 
 weeks, then be rinsed and dried. 
 
 To Dye Straw and Straw Hats. 
 Black. For 25 Straw Hats. Prepare 
 a boiling bath, and add to it 4V pounds 
 of logwood, 1 pound of gall-nuts or 
 sumach, and 4J ounces of turmeric, or 
 fustic. Let the hats boil in this bath 
 for 2 hours. Then place them in a 
 bath of ferric nitrate of 4 Beaume and 
 rinse them carefully in water, and dry 
 and brush them. 
 
 Chestnut-brown. For, 25 Straw 
 Hats. One and one-half pounds of 
 ground red sanders wood, '2 pounds of 
 ground turmeric, 61 ounces of gall-nuts 
 or sumach, and ounce of rasped log- 
 wood are boiled for at least 2 hours in a 
 boiler of sufficient capacity to hold the 
 hats without being pressed against each 
 other. The hats, after being boiled for 
 2 hours in this bath, are rinsed out and 
 allowed to remain over night in a bath 
 of ferric nitrate of 40 Beaume, when 
 they are carefully rinsed out several 
 times to remove the acid. For a darker 
 chestnut-brown the quantity of sanders 
 wood is increased. When the straw is 
 dry the hats are brushed with a brush 
 of dog's (or couch) grass to give them 
 lustre. 
 
 , Silver-gray. For 25 Straw Hats. 
 The whitest straw should be selected 
 for this color. The hats are first 
 soaked in a bath of crystallized soda to 
 which a little of a clear solution of lime 
 and 4 pounds of alum and 3} ounces 
 of tartaric acid have been added. The 
 hats are then allowed to boil in this 
 bath for 2 hours, when they are 
 rinsed with slightly acidulated wntor. 
 
 Violet. For 25' /Straw Hats. Two 
 
 pounds of alum, 1 portnd of tartaric 
 acid, and a Iik6 quantity of chloride of 
 tin. Let the hats boil in this bath for 
 2 hours and then add, according to the 
 shade to be produced, decoction of log- 
 wood and indigo-carmine, and rinse 
 them with water with a slight addition 
 of alum. 
 
 To Dye Kid Gloves. The dye solu- 
 tions are brushed over a glove drawn 
 smoothly over a wooden hand. In 
 order to dye black, the glove is first 
 washed with alcohol and dried, and 
 then brushed with a decoction of log- 
 wood, left for 10 minutes, and then 
 brushed over once more with logwood. 
 After 10 minutes, the glove is dipped 
 into a solution of sulphate of iron, and 
 brushed afterward with warm water. 
 If the color is not dark enough, add a 
 little fustic or decoction of quercitron 
 in the logwood bath. In place of the 
 sulphate of iron, the nitrate may be ad- 
 vantageously employed. When the 
 glove begins to dry, it is rubbed with 
 a little Provence oil and talc, laid be- 
 tween flannel, and pressed. It is again. 
 rubbed with oil and talc, and drawn oa 
 a wooden hand. The glove must not get 
 black on the inside, consequently none 
 of the coloring matter should reach the 
 inside of the glove. Thrown is dyed by 
 brushing the glove with a decoction of 
 fustic red and logwood with a little 
 alum. The quantities of the dyestuff 
 to be used are regulated according to 
 the shades desired. For darkening the 
 color a small quantity of solution of 
 sulphate of iron is used. 
 
 Morocco-red is produced by brushing 
 the glove with a decoction of cochineal, 
 to which a little tin salt and oxalic acid 
 are added. The shade is easily made 
 darker by adding a little logwood. 
 Gray is produced by brushing the glove 
 with a decoction of sumach, and then 
 treating it with a weak solution of sul- 
 phate of iron ; a greenish-gray shade is 
 obtained by the addition of fustic and 
 logwood, or fustic and indigo-carmine, 
 to the decoction of sumach. 
 
 The aniline colors all fix themselves 
 without any further addition by brush- 
 ing their solutions on the gloves. In 
 place of the brush a sponge may be 
 used where it seems suitable. In order 
 to give black a pleasing bluish appear- 
 ance, after the dyeing, it may be washed 
 
DYEING WOOLLEN AND COTTON GOODS, ETC. 
 
 105 
 
 with a little sal-ammoniac. Should 
 the seams in the gloves remain white 
 after dyeing, they are coated with a 
 paste to which a little fat is added. 
 
 To Dye Kid Gloves Orange-yellow. 
 Take a good pinch of saffron, 1 drachm 
 of auiiotto, and a like quantity of isin- 
 glass; pour li pints of boiling water 
 over these ingredients, and let them 
 stand over night. Cleanse the gloves 
 with alcohol,, draw them over wooden 
 hands, and apply the solution with a 
 brush. The isinglass gives durability 
 and a beautiful lustre to the color. 
 
 To Dye Horsehair. The hair is kept 
 in a soap bath of 120 F. for I'-i hours, 
 and frequently stirred, taken out and 
 washed, and is then ready for the dye. 
 
 Jilack. Boil the hair with milk of 
 lime, then place it for several hours in 
 a decoction of logwood, and finally treat 
 it with acetate of iron. 
 
 Blue. Mordant the hair in a warm 
 solution of alum and tartar, and then 
 dye it in a bath of indigo-carmine com- 
 pounded with alum, or in a solution of 
 indigo in sulphuric acid. 
 
 Jfro-wn. Place the hair in a decoc- 
 tion of logwood prepared with lime- 
 water, raise the temperature of the bath 
 to 120 F., allow the hair to remain in 
 it for 12 hours, and then wash it in 
 water. 
 
 Red. Place the hair for hour in 
 a solution of tin salt to which some 
 warm water has been added. Then 
 wring it out and bring it into a decoc- 
 tion oflogwood compounded with alum. 
 Allow it to remain in this for 24 hours, 
 and then rinse and dry it. 
 
 To Dye Imitation Corals. Alabaster 
 is generally used for making imitation 
 corals. For the purpose of dyeing them, 
 prepare a bath of 1 part of tartar, i part 
 of composition of tin, and 70 of water. 
 The composition of tin is prepared from 
 8 parts of nitric acid, 1 of sal-ammoniac, 
 1 of tin, and 25 of water. 
 
 Saturate this bath with cochineal and 
 bring it to the boiling point. Then 
 allow it to cool and decant it. The 
 alabaster is placed in this clear fluid, 
 boiled for 1 hour in it, then dried in the 
 open air, and finally put for 2 or 3 
 hours in a bath composed of equal 
 parts of stearic acid and wax. When 
 the articles are taken from this bath 
 they are wiped off with paper and pol- 
 
 ished with a substance which should 
 not be too hard. 
 
 AiiiiHiiliziny of Hemp, Jute, etc. 
 Every dyer who handles these articles 
 knows how difficult it is to mordant 
 and dye hemp and jute. To overcome 
 this difficulty place these fibrous sub- 
 stances in a steam boiler, and let them 
 boil for 1 hour in a suflicient quantity 
 of soda; then rinse and subject them in 
 a well-closed vessel to the action of 
 chloride of lime. The substances ani- 
 mal ized in this manner can be easily 
 bleached or dyed. 
 
 MOKDANTS. Olivier 9 * Mixtures as 
 Substitute* for Tartar in Dyeing Wool. 
 I. Dissolve 100 parts of common salt in 
 300 parts of water ; add to the solution 
 
 1 part of white arsenic, 10 of sulphuric 
 acid, and 3 of nitric acid. 
 
 II. Mix 100 parts of Glauber's salt 
 with 1 of sulphuric acid, 3 of itrie 
 acid, and 6 of vinegar. 
 
 III. Mix 100 parts of Glauber's salt 
 with G of sulphuric acid and 2 of nitric 
 acid. 
 
 IV. Mix 100 parts of Glauber's salt 
 and 3 of powdered tartar with 6 of sul- 
 phuric acid. 
 
 Uuilard's Substitute for Tartar in 
 Dyeing Wool Slack, without an addi- 
 tion of alum, is composed of 16.5 gal- 
 lons of water, 55 pounds of common 
 salt, and 11 pounds of nitric acid of 36 
 Beaume. The common salt is dissolved 
 in the water, the nitric acid is tlu'n 
 added, and the solution filtered. If 
 tartar and alum have been used as a 
 mordant, 33 pounds of sulphate of alu- 
 mina are gradually added in small por- 
 tions to the solution of common salt 
 with nitric acid. It is necessary to add 
 some tartar and alum to the bath to be 
 used for the first piece of goods, or 
 a little tartar is added to the dye- 
 bath. 
 
 Mordant for Dark Red on Cottons. 
 One and three-quarter gallons of soft 
 water, 2 pounds of cream of tartar, 11 
 pounds of good alum, 1 pound of sal- 
 ammoniac, 81 ounces of solution of tin, 
 3i pounds of crystallized soda, and 2 
 pounds of spirit of wine. 
 
 Mordant for Light Red on Cottons. 
 One and one-half gallons of water, 2 
 ounces of cream of tartar, 73 pounds of 
 good alum, 13i ounces of sal-ammoniac, 
 
 2 pounds of crystallized soda, 8i ounces 
 
108 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK, 
 
 of solution of tin, and 2 pounds of spirit 
 of wine. 
 
 Mordant for Scarlet on Cottons. One 
 and three-quarter gallons of soft water, 
 11 pounds of alum, li pounds of sal- 
 ammoniac, 3i pounds of crystallized 
 soda, 8f ounces of solution of tin, 1 
 quart of spirit of wine, and 1 pound of 
 sugar of tin. 
 
 Mordant for Light Scarlet on Cottons. 
 One and one-half gallons of soft water, 
 51 pounds of alum, Sf ounces of sal- 
 ammoniac, 1 pound of crystallized soda, 
 13 ounces of solution of tin, 1 quart of 
 spirit of wine, and 1 pound of sugar of 
 tin. 
 
 Mordant for Crimson on Cottons. 
 One and one-half gallons of soft water, 
 2 pounds of lime, 51 pounds of alum, 1 
 pound of sal-amrnoniac, 41 ounces of 
 potash, 8} ounces of liver of sulphur, 1 
 quart of spirit of wine, 1 pound of sugar 
 of tin, and 1 pound of spirit of sal- 
 ammoniac. 
 
 Mordant for Rose-red on Cottons. 
 One and one-half gallons of soft water, 
 If ounces of cream of tartar, 3i pounds 
 of alum, 8| ounces of sal-ammoniac, 8| 
 ounces of solution of tin, 41 ounces of 
 liver of sulphur, 8J ounces of sugar of 
 tin, and 2 pounds of spirit of sal-am- 
 moniac. 
 
 Mordant for Fiery Red on Cottons. 
 One and one-half gallons of soft water, 
 11 pounds of verdigris, 41 pounds of 
 alum, 3i pounds of blue vitriol, and 1 
 quart of spirit of wine. 
 
 Mordant for Purple on Cottons. One 
 and one-half gallons of soft water, 8| 
 ounces of cream of tartar, 8J pounds of 
 alum, 41 pounds of lime, 8 ounces of 
 potash, li pounds of solution of tin, 4i 
 pounds of sugar of tin, and 2 pounds of 
 iron liquor. 
 
 Mordant for Violet on Cottons. One 
 and one-half gallons of soft water, 8i 
 ounces of cream of tartar, 2i pounds of 
 alum, 41 pounds of crystallized soda, 
 61 pounds of sugar of tin, and 3i pounds 
 of spirit of sal-ammoniac. 
 
 Manner of Preparing the Mordants. 
 First dissolve the alum in hot water, 
 then add the coloring matter, for in- 
 stance cochineal and solution of tin, 
 etc.; next the sal-ammoniac and the 
 alkalies, as soda, potash, liver of sul- 
 phur, and finally the spirit of wine and 
 $ urn Arabic, 
 
 Use of Metallic Sulphides as Mor- 
 dants in Dyeing Cottons with Aniline 
 Colors. For the purpose of mordanting 
 with sulphide of zinc the cottons are 
 dipped for a short time into a solution 
 of 15 parts of sulphate of zinc in 10 
 parts of water. They are then dried 
 and placed for 2 minutes in a solution 
 of sulphite of soda of 15 Beaume. To 
 mordant with sulphide of tin the cot- 
 tons are immersed for a short time in a 
 bath containing 1 pint of stannate of 
 soda, of 20 Beaume, and 1 pint of 
 sulphide of ammonium . They are then 
 placed, while still moist, in sulphuric 
 acid of 2 Beauae'. In both cases the 
 mordanted cottons are dyed hot in a 
 watery solution of aniline colors. The 
 coloring matter forms a combination 
 with the metallic sulphide which can- 
 not be w r ashed out with hot water. 
 
 Pra ctica I Direction sfor Dyeing Cotton 
 Yarn Turkey-red with Alizarine. Six 
 hundred and fifty pounds of yarn are 
 boiled with 18i pounds of calcined borax, 
 in a high-pressure boiler, for 10 to 12 
 hours, at a pressure of 1.5 atmosphere. 
 It is then passed through a mixture of 45 
 pounds of sheep or cow dung and 10 
 gallons of solution of potash of 1.1598 
 specific gravity and the necessary quan- 
 tity of water. After it has been dried 
 at 130 to 145 F. it receives the first 
 oil mordant. This is composed of 55 
 pounds of oil, 7| gallons of the above 
 solution of potash, and the residue of a 
 former lot. It is first dried in the air 
 and then thoroughly in the drying 
 room at 145 F. It now receives the 
 second oil mordant, composed as the 
 first. This is succeeded by a clear 
 mordant containing 4| gallons of solu- 
 tion of potash, 40 gallons of the rinsing 
 water, and the residue of both oil mor- 
 dants. The yarn is then immediately 
 dried in the drying room at 130 F. 
 When dry the second clear mordant, 
 composed like the first, is applied and 
 the yarn again dried. It is then placed 
 over night in a solution of 2 to 3 pounds 
 of tannin, and galled. After it has 
 been wrung out it is placed in the alum 
 mordant, which contains either 165 
 pounds of sulphate of magnesia dulled 
 with 22 pounds of calcined soda, or 165 
 pounds of alum dulled with 23 pounds 
 of chalk. The yarn is then again dried, 
 mordanted with soda, and washed. In 
 
ELECTRO-PLATING, GALVANOPLASTY, ETC. 
 
 107 
 
 dyeing, 8J pounds of alizarine, 42 gal- 
 lons of blood, and, according to the 
 quality of the water, IS ounces of tannin 
 and chalk are used for 88 pounds of 
 yarn. After the yarn is dyed it is 
 brightened for 10 hours in the high- 
 pressure boiler with 25 pounds of cal- 
 cined soda; then acidulated with 3i 
 pounds of tin salt, 1 pound of nitric 
 acid, and 8| ounces of alum; next 
 soaped with 22 pounds of soap, 5 
 pounds of soda, 2 pounds of tin salt, llf 
 ounces of nitric acid, and 1 pound of 
 annotto, and finally washed, oiled, 
 loaded, and soaked. 
 
 To Prepare the so-called Turkey-red 
 Oil. The following process furnishes 
 a Turkey-red oil which, when dissolved 
 in water, gives a clear fluid well adapted 
 for dyeing and printing with alizarine. 
 Add in a thin stream and with constant 
 stirring 1 pounds of sulphuric acid of 
 66 Beaume to 6J pounds of castor-oil. 
 Heating during the process should be 
 carefully avoided, but should it occur, 
 the adding of sulphuric acid must be 
 interrupted until the mass has entirely 
 cooled off. The greater the quantity 
 worked at one time the greater is the 
 danger of heating and the consequent 
 spoiling of the product. If the work is 
 carried on on a large scale it is best to 
 use vats lined with lead. The mixing 
 of the sulphuric acid with the oil re- 
 quires from 2 to 4 hours ; 3 hours suffice 
 for the above-mentioned quantity. The 
 mass is now allowed to stand quietly for 
 12 hours, when it is diluted with 1 gal- 
 lon of water. Calcined soda in small 
 portions is now added until litmus 
 paper is no longer colored red. About 
 li pounds of pure soda will be required. 
 This operation must be carried on very 
 slowly, as, on account of the escape of 
 carbonic acid, a strong foaming will 
 take place. The mass gives now a 
 white emulsion with water. To obtain 
 a clear solution ammonia is added until 
 a sample gives a clear solution with 
 water. It is then allowed to settle for 
 about 12 hours, when the now finished 
 Turkey-red oil is drawn off by means 
 of a siphon. The sodium sulphate 
 which has been formed by the re-neu- 
 tralization will be found as a crystallized 
 residue on the bottom of the vessel. 
 
 English Alizarinoil (Patent Oil) is 
 composed of 48,69 per cent, of water, 
 
 4.67 per cent, of castor-oil, 43.90 per 
 cent, of ricinoleic acid, and 3.685 per 
 cent, of ash. Such oil is prepared by a 
 complete saponification of castor-oil 
 with caustic soda. The resulting soap 
 is decomposed with diluted acid. The 
 separated fatty acids are removed by 
 water and then compounded with a like 
 quantity of water and a sufficient 
 amount of caustic soda, that about & of 
 the castor-oil used is again saponified. 
 After boiling the mixture it is allowed 
 to cool and is then converted into an 
 emulsion by stirring. 
 
 A New Dye. The young shoots of 
 the poplar tree yield a dye which can 
 be extracted as follows: The young 
 twigs and branches are bruised and 
 boiled for 20 minutes with a solution of 
 alum 10 pounds of wood requiring 1 
 pound of alum in 3.^ gallons of water. 
 The solution is filtered hot and allowed 
 to cool, and after standing some time is 
 again filtered from a resinous deposit. 
 On exposure to air and light it develops 
 a rich gold color and may be used 
 directly for dyeing orange and yellow 
 shades upon all classes of goods. 
 
 ELECTEO-PLATING, GALVANOPLASTY, 
 GILDING, NICKELLING, SILVERING, 
 TINNING, ETC. 
 
 Nickel Plating. The double sul- 
 phate of nickel and ammonium, which 
 is the salt that is generally used, may 
 now be had in commerce almost pure. 
 The anodes should considerably exceed 
 in size the articles to be covered with 
 nickel. Any common form of battery 
 may be used. Three Darnell's cells, or 
 two Bunsen's, connected for intensity, 
 will be found to be sufficient. The bat- 
 tery power must not be too strong, or 
 the deposited nickel will be black. A 
 strong solution of the sulphate is made, 
 and placed in any suitable vessel; a 
 glazed stoneware pot answers very well 
 if the articles to be covered are small. 
 Across the top of this are placed two 
 heavy copper wires, to one of which the 
 articles to be covered are suspended, to 
 the other the anode. The wire leading 
 from the zinc of the battery must then 
 be connected with the wire from which 
 the articles are suspended, the other 
 battery-wire being connected with the 
 anode. 
 
108 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 To prepare the articles for coating, i Ammonium chloride or ammo- 
 
 they must be well cleansed by scrub- | . nium "W>"* 
 
 bing them, immersing in boiling pot- Ammonium Ultrj 
 
 ash, to remove any grease, then dipping 
 them for an instant in muriatic acid, 
 and afterwards washing thoroughly in 
 water, taking care that the hand does 
 not come in contact with any part of 
 them. This is accomplished by fasten- 
 ing a flexible copper wire around them 
 and handling them by means of it. 
 The wire serves afterwards to suspend 
 them in the bath. 
 
 If the articles are made of iron or 
 steel, they may be first covered with a 
 thin coat'of copper. This is best done 
 by the cyanide bath, which is prepared 
 by dissolving precipitated oxide of cop- 
 per in cyanide of potassium. A copper 
 plate is used as an anode. After they 
 are removed from the copper bath, they 
 must be washed quickly with water 
 and placed in the nickel bath. If al- 
 lowed to become dry, or to tarnish, the 
 nickel will not adhere. Great care 
 must be observed during the whole pro- 
 cess to keep ail grease, dust, or other 
 dirt from tho articles to be coated, or 
 else the result will be unsatisfactory. 
 The whole process is one of the most 
 
 pound. 
 
 The bath is heated to 175 F., and 
 gradually saturated with freshly pre- 
 cipitated nickel hydrate. It is then 
 removed from the 'fire, saturated with 
 i gallon of ammonia, and diluted with 
 water to a bulk of 5 ' gallons. It is now 
 allowed to become cold. One pound of 
 ammonium carbonate is then added, 
 the fluid is allowed to settle, and is 
 finally filtered. 
 
 It is blackish-blue, and shows 11 B. 
 A white layer of nickel of great density 
 and brilliancy is deposited by electrol- 
 ysis. The temperature of the bath, 
 when used, should be about 120 F. 
 A thicker coating can be obtained by 
 adding hydrate of potassium or of so- 
 dium. 
 
 Latest Improvements in Nickel Plat* 
 ing. The double salts of nickel and 
 ammonia, generally used in nickel 
 plating, have not given entirely satis- 
 factory results. After many experi- 
 ments Powell, of Cincinnati, has found 
 that an addition of benzoic acid to 1 
 of the nickel salts (especially when a 
 decidedly alkaline solution is used) 
 
 difficult that is used in the arts, it being su ffi ces to pro duce a beautiful silver 
 
 far easier to gild plate or copper an white C0 ating, which is very hard, uni- 
 
 article than to nickel it ; but if due care forin and adh esive. The solution is at 
 is taken the results will amply pay for 
 
 the trouble. 
 
 Improvement in Nickel Plating. E. 
 Weston, of Newark, N. /., has found 
 that an addition of boracic acid adapts 
 the different salts of nickel better for 
 electrolytic separation than any other 
 substance, and especially prevents the 
 formation of sub-salts of nickel on 
 the cathode. The following mixtures 
 
 the same time more durable, the anodes 
 dissolve freely, and the specific gravity 
 of the fluid remains unchanged. The 
 addition of benzoic acid may vary from 
 i ounce to 1} ounces to the gallon, ac- 
 cording to the nature of the solution. 
 Instead of benzoic acid one of its salts, 
 for instance benzoate of nickel, may 
 be used, and such addition may also be 
 advantageously employed for solutions 
 The in- 
 
 can be especially recommended: Five | of coba j t and other metals . _ ,. 
 parts of nickel chloride and 2 of boracic I ventor recommends the following pro- 
 acid ; or 2 of nickel su phate and 1 of portions for a bath of 1 gallon : 
 boracic acid. The nickel precipitated 
 from these solutions adheres very tena- 
 ciously. 
 
 Sheet metal plated by this process 
 can be polished, stamped, and fashioned 
 into various shapes without injury to 
 the coating. 
 
 Martin and Dclamotte's Process of 
 Nickel Plating. Prepare a bath of: 
 
 Water 3.3 gallons. 
 
 Citric acid 2% pounds. 
 
 I. 
 
 Nickel sulphate 4\ ounces, 
 
 Nickel citrate 3J4 " 
 
 Benzoic acid . 1 ounce 
 
 II. 
 
 Nickel chloride 2 
 
 Nickel citrate 2 
 
 Nickel acetate 2 
 
 Nickel phosphate 2 
 
 Benzoic acid ....... 1 
 
ELECT IIO-PLATING, GALVANOPLASTY, ETC. 
 
 109 
 
 in. 
 
 Nickel sulphate ...... 3V ounces. 
 
 Nickel citr.ite ....... 3^ " 
 
 Nickel bdizuate ...... 1 ounce. 
 
 Benzoic acid ....... " 
 
 IV. 
 
 Nickel acetate 
 
 Nickel phosphate ... 
 
 Nickel citrate .... 
 
 Sodium pyrophosphate . 
 
 Sodium bisulphide 
 
 Ammonia 
 
 3J4 ounces. 
 
 1 ounce. 
 3 l / ounces. 
 
 2 " 
 
 1 ounce. 
 5}^ ounces. 
 
 As benzole acid is difficult to dissolve 
 in water it is best to heat the nickel 
 salts in a sufficient quantity of water, 
 and to add the benzoic acid during the 
 boiling. It will thus dissolve much 
 easier with the nickel salts than in 
 pure water 
 
 The great advantage of these solu- 
 tions is that the manufacturer is no 
 longer restricted to the use of certain 
 chemically pure salts. For preparing 
 the acetate, citrate, and sulphate of 
 nickel, respectively, the ordinary acids 
 of commerce can be used, as the inju- 
 rious influences of the impurities, 
 always present in these salts or acids, 
 are entirely neutralized by the benxoic 
 acid. These solutions are also adapted 
 for electrotyping purposes, where the 
 metal is deposited upon surfaces ren- 
 dered conductive by a thin coating of 
 graphite, bronze powder, etc. The de- 
 posit, as soon as the desired thickness 
 has been obtained, can also be de- 
 tached in the same manner from the 
 surface or the metal. In case the solu- 
 tions to be used contain alkaline salts, 
 it is best to prevent a possible incom- 
 plete decomposition of the fluid by an 
 addition of sodium pyrophospliate. 
 Finally salicylic, gallic, or pyrogallic 
 acid may be 'substituted for a part or 
 the whole of benzoic acid. 
 
 liccc //>/> for Onl iiKirij Xickel F>dtli$. 
 I. Boil, with constant stirring, for 
 \ hour, 1 pound of the double sul- 
 phate of nickel and ammonium and V 
 pound of hydrochlorate of ammonia in 
 1? gallons of water, and let the fluid 
 cool over night. 
 
 II. Boil for i hour 1 pound of the 
 double sulphate of nickel and am- 
 monium and If ounces of citric acid 
 in 2 gallons of water. Then allow it 
 to cool and add from i to f ounces of 
 
 carbonate ot ammonia in small pieces 
 until the fluid is neutralized. 
 
 III. Boil for i hour 10V ounces of 
 the double sulphate of nickel and am- 
 monium, a like quantity of sulphate 
 of ammonia, and H gallons of water, 
 and let the fluid cool. 
 
 IV. Dissolve 10i ounces of the double 
 sulphate of nickel and ammonium by 
 boiling in 3i quarts of water, and allow 
 the fluid to cool. The solution is neu- 
 tralized with spirit of sal-ammoniac, 
 and diluted with water, until it is con- 
 centrated to 20 to 25 B. 
 
 V. Dissolve 2i pounds of the double 
 sulphate of nickel and ammonium, li 
 pounds of hydrochlorate of ammonia 
 by boiling in 8J gallons of water, and 
 make the fluid slightly alkaline so that 
 it shows 3 to 4 by the hydrometer, by 
 adding 3$ pounds of caustic ammonia. 
 
 VI. Dissolve 1 pound of the double 
 sulphate of nickel and ammonium, 10i 
 ounces of hydrochlorate of ammonium, 
 and 7 ounces of sulphate of ammonium 
 by boiling in 12 gallons of water, and 
 allow the fluid to cool. 
 
 American JSickeiling. The following 
 baths are in use in a number of large 
 American manufactories : 
 
 I. Bath for Iron, Cast-iron, and 
 Steel. Dissolve 2 pounds of the double 
 sulphate of nickel and ammonium and 
 5i ounces of sulphate of ammonia by 
 boiling in 5i gallons of water. 
 
 II. Bath for Brass, Copper, Tin, 
 Britannia Metal, Lead, Zinc, and 
 Tinned 8heet Metal. Dissolve 2 pounds 
 of the double sulphate of nickel and 
 ammonium and 7 ounces of sulphate 
 of ammonium by boiling in 6i gallons 
 of water, and let the fluid cool. In 
 case any acid should still be present a 
 little hydrochlorate of ammonia must 
 be added, so that red or blue litmus 
 paper remains unchanged. 
 
 Latest Anglo-American Nicktllifig. 
 
 ' The best nickel-plating, for the ex- 
 cellence of which we can vouch, is ac- 
 
 I complished by using the following 
 bath : Two pounds of the double sul- 
 phate of nickel and ammonium and 1 
 pound of refined boracic acid are boiled 
 
 j for i hour, when the fluid is allowed 
 
 ! to cool. This bath gives a silver- 
 white plating, and all parts of the 
 article receive a uniform nickelling 
 
 . and remain unchanged even if con- 
 
110 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 tinuously used, which is not the case 
 with other nickel baths. In nickelling 
 large articles, several nickel anodes 
 Hi ust be suspended on each of the four 
 sides. In nickelling plates, cups, etc., 
 a plate of nickel must be suspended in 
 the centre of the hollow, but should be, 
 if possible, kept at a distance of 2 to 4 
 inches from the article to be nickelled. 
 A strong Bunsen battery of 4 to 8 
 elements, or, what is still better, a 
 dynamo-electric machine, is used. 
 
 Preparation of the Metals to be Nick- 
 elled. The treatment of iron and steel 
 requires no further explanation. We 
 advise to first immerse the articles for 
 some time in a boiling hot solution of 
 caustic soda or potash, next to rub them 
 thoroughly with a brush, then to rinse 
 with cold water, and finally to dip 
 them into an acid pickle consisting of 
 1 part of sulphuric acid and 2 of hydro- 
 chloric acid to 10 of water, after which 
 they are again rinsed,thoroughly rubbed 
 with fine, washed pumice-stone or Vi- 
 enna lime, rinsed off, and at once brought 
 into the bath. Fine polished instru- 
 ments of iron and steel for surgical, 
 dental, and other purposes, scissors, 
 knives, and telegraphic instruments are 
 treated in the same manner, but in 
 place of the washed pumice-stone they 
 should be brushed with whiting or trip- 
 oli, or, what is still better, with infu- 
 sorial earth. Brass, bronze, Britannia 
 metal, etc., are also treated with a hot 
 solution of caustic soda or potash, then 
 rubbed and brushed, rinsed with water, 
 and at once placed in a solution of cy- 
 anide of potassium. They are then 
 cleansed with a bristle brush kept for 
 that purpose, carefully rinsed in water, 
 and at once brought into the bath. The 
 variegated colors produced upon brass 
 by the action of the solution of caustic 
 soda disappear almost instantaneously 
 in the solution of cyanide, and a bright 
 surface of the metal is sure to be ob- 
 tained. Special attention must be paid 
 to the careful rinsing of the articles, 
 especially if they have hollow places 
 and depressions, after they have been 
 treated in the solution of cyanide of 
 potassium, to prevent the nickelling 
 bath from being contaminated by the 
 cyanide. For many articles of brass 
 having more or less matt and polished 
 places, it is sufficient to dip them (after 
 
 having been freed from all fatty sub- 
 stances by boiling potash and subse- 
 quently rinsing in water) into the mixt- 
 ure of acids, then to rinse them again, and 
 to bring them at once into the bath. 
 For iron articles the use of finely sifted 
 pumice-stone or chalk is absolutely 
 necessary. Copper wire should be 
 tightly wound around all articles of 
 metal, and two or more wires around 
 large articles. In articles consisting of 
 two metals, for instance iron with steel 
 or with brass, the wire must be wound 
 around both metals. Smaller articles 
 are suspended from copper hooks. The 
 articles should not be immersed in the 
 nickelling bath until the battery or 
 machine is in action. The suspended 
 articles remain in the bath until they 
 have acquired a white color, which, 
 according to the strength of the electric 
 current and the number and size of the 
 articles suspended, will require from 5 
 to 30 minutes. Large articles of steel 
 or iron require longer than brass, cop- 
 per, etc., and, if they fill the entire bath, 
 must remain in it, according to circum- 
 stances, for several hours or an entire 
 night. In case the article to be nick- 
 elled assumes a gray or black color, or 
 feels gritty or rough, the current is too 
 strong. The article, after its removal 
 from the bath, should immediately be 
 dipped for a few seconds in boiling hot 
 water, then allowed to drain off, dried 
 in warm sawdust free from rosin, and, 
 if necessary, polished. Fine articles are 
 rubbed with a polishing brush or with 
 soft leather and whiting. Polishing 
 the articles with a burnishing steel after 
 they have been nickelled is not admis- 
 sible, as the coating is too hard and 
 brittle for such usage. The better they 
 have been polished before plating, the 
 more beautiful will be the nickelling. 
 
 To Nickel Iron without the Use of 
 Electricity. To a solution of chloride 
 of zinc 5 to 10 per cent, strong add 
 enough nickel salt to give the usual 
 color of nickel baths. Cleanse the arti- 
 cles and put them in the solution for i 
 to 1 hour. 
 
 Doumesnil's Process of Platinizing 
 Metal. The preci pitate obtained by treat- 
 ing a solution of platinum chloride with 
 sal-ammoniac is intimately mixed with 
 finely pulverized borate of lead by add- 
 ing water. The articles, which should 
 
ELECTRO-PLATING, GALVANOPLASTY, ETC. 
 
 Ill 
 
 first be thoroughly cleansed, are coated 
 with this mixture and then subjected to 
 a strong heat in a sheet-iron muffle. 
 
 Platinizing of Metals. Optical in- 
 struments, etc., are platinized by boil- 
 ing them in a solution of J ounce of 
 ammonio-chloride of platinum and 3 
 ounces of sal-ammoniac in 14 ounces of 
 water. This solution may also be used 
 for copper and brass articles. Platinum 
 plating is a subject about which very 
 little has been said or written, as elec- 
 tro-platers who have actually obtained 
 good results have" kept the process a 
 profound secret. We give below re- 
 ceipts received from acknowledged au- 
 thorities and from private sources. 
 There are two methods of platinum 
 plating : bv dipping without the use of 
 a battery (boiling), and by electrolysis. 
 Copper and its alloys are best adapted 
 for platinizing, as the platinum adheres 
 well to them, but not very well to iron, 
 zinc, tin, and lead. The following 
 solution is recommended for platinizing 
 by boiling : One part of pure chloride 
 of platinum in solid form and as neu- 
 tral as possible and 10 of entirely pure 
 sodium hydrate are separately dissolved, 
 each in 50 parts of water, and the pla- 
 tinum solution is then carefully poured 
 into the sodium lye. When the two 
 solutions have been thoroughly mixed 
 add ammonia until the mixture shows 
 a perceptible odor of it. The bath is 
 heated to the boiling point, the arti- 
 cles, which should first be thoroughly 
 cleansed, are dipped into it, and, as 
 soon as they have acquired a white, 
 brilliant coating, rinsed in hot water, 
 dried in sawdust, and, if necessary, 
 again dipped. This coating, no matter 
 how well it may look, will necessarily 
 be very thin and not capable of resist- 
 ing acids, scouring, etc. Electroplating 
 is necessary for most purposes. A 
 skilled and experienced operator, by 
 accurately observing the following di- 
 rections, can obtain a deposit of any 
 desired thickness and showing the same 
 lustre as pure platinum : Dissolve 10 
 drachms of pure chloride of platinum ' 
 in 7 ounces of water. Then dissolve 1 J 
 ounces of ammonium phosphate in 7 
 ounces of water. Mix this with the 
 solution of platinum, disregarding the 
 precipitate which is formed. In the I 
 meanwhile bring 10 ounces of water ' 
 
 and 3 ounces of sodium phosphate to 
 the boiling point, and add, while this 
 is boiling, the thoroughly shaken solu- 
 tion above described. Continue to boil 
 the mixture until the fluid has become 
 entirely clear and the odor of ammonia 
 entirely disappears, and the solution, at 
 first alkaline, ceases to impart a blue 
 color to reddened litmus paper. When 
 this bath is cold and has been filtered 
 it is ready for use. It requires a strong, 
 constant current and a large anode. 
 
 According to Jeivreinqff', copper and 
 brass can be electroplated with platinum 
 to any desired thickness by taking the 
 articles from time to time from the solu- 
 tion of platinum and scouring them 
 with whiting. The salt of platinum 
 used is prepared in the following man- 
 ner: One hundred parts of potassium 
 hydrate dissolved in water are added to 
 a solution in water of the chloride of 
 platinum obtained from 100 parts of 
 metallic platinum. The minute yellow 
 crystals of platino-chloride of potas- 
 sium which are formed are heated with 
 20 parts of oxalic acid in a porcelain 
 vessel until they disappear, and, when 
 the solution is complete, 300 parts more 
 of potassium hydrate, dissolved in 
 water, are added. 
 
 To Electroplate Metals with Cobalt. 
 The same formulae as have been de- 
 scribed under nickel plating will be 
 found to answer also for cobalt by sim- 
 ply substituting cobalt- salts for those 
 of nickel where these are named. The 
 deposit is even more brilliant than that 
 of nickel. (W.) 
 
 Plating with Aluminium. Dissolve 
 any desired quantity of salt of alumin- 
 ium, such as the sulphate, muriate, 
 nitrate, acetate, cyanide, etc., in distilled 
 water, and concentrate the solution to 
 20 Beaume in a suitable vessel to hold 
 the articles to be plated. The battery 
 to be used should be 3 pairs of Bunsen's 
 zinco-carbon, with the elements con- 
 nected for intensity, and an anode of 
 aluminium attached to the negative 
 wire. The solution should be slightly 
 acidulated with its appropriate acid, 
 heated to 140 F. and kept at that tem- 
 perature during the operation. 
 
 (Hiding Copper by Boiling. Take a 
 liquid amalgam consisting of 4 parts of 
 mercury, 2 of zinc, and 1 of gold. Mix 
 this amalgam with 8 parts of hydro- 
 
TECHNO-CH3EMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 chloric acid and add 1 of salt of tartar. 
 Cleanse the copper thoroughly with 
 aq lid-fords, and then boil it in the 
 fluid until it has assumed a bright gold 
 color, 
 
 To Impart a 'more Brilliant Gold 
 Golor to Gilded or Gold-plated Articles. 
 Heduce the Following ingredients into 
 an impalpable powder ; 
 
 (Sulphur . , 5 parts. 
 
 Alum -." 2 " 
 
 Arsenic 2 " 
 
 Turmeric 1 part. 
 
 Native antimony 1 " 
 
 Boil and skim urine, put the powder 
 in this, and boil for hour. Then 
 place the articles in the fluid and boil 
 until the color is sufficiently brilliant. 
 
 Instead of urine the following fluid 
 may be used : 
 
 Sal -ammoniac 3 parts. 
 
 Common salt 1 part. 
 
 Vinegar 6 parts. 
 
 Water 23 " 
 
 To Silver Articles of Bessemer Steel. 
 Bessemer sheet steel is now much used, 
 instead of brass or German silver, for 
 manufacturing all kinds of utensils 
 soup tureens, tea and coffee-pots, spoons, 
 knives and forks, etc. C. Safari, of 
 Vienna, has obtained a patent for coat- 
 ing these articles with silver by the 
 following process : The articles are first 
 cleansed from all adhering grease by 
 washing them in hot lye. They are 
 then pickled with diluted hydrochloric 
 acid and scoured with sand. Solution 
 of mercury in nitric acid is dropped 
 into water slightly acidulated with hy- 
 drochloric acid until e- cleansed strip 
 of copper dipped into the fluid becomes 
 covered with a white coating. But as 
 iron does not amalgamate, like other 
 metals, by dipping it simply into the 
 fluid, it is connected with the zinc pole 
 of a Bunsen cell and submerged in the 
 solution of mercury. The Bessemer 
 steel will thus accept a coating of mer- 
 cury, when it is taken out, thoroughly 
 washed, and silvered in the usual silver 
 bath. The articles are taken from the 
 silver b?th, thoroughly washed, and 
 heated upon a coal fire until they hiss 
 Avhen touched with the wet finger. 
 They are then allowed to cool off, 
 scratch-brushed, and, if necessary, pol- 
 ished. 
 
 I A drietle's Process of Silvering Met a Is. 
 \ Dissolve 35 ounces of silver in double 
 ! that quantity of nitric acid. Next dis- 
 solve 2 pounds of cyanide of potassium 
 in 2$ gallons of water. Filter and mix 
 the 2 solutions. Then add 6i ounces 
 of whiting, and put the fluid in given 
 bottles. When articles are to be sil- 
 vered, prepare a bath of 1 part of the 
 fluid and 3 of water. Shake the bottle 
 and pour the fluid into the bath. The 
 article, after it has been silvered, is 
 polished with chalk. 
 
 Pijfard's Galvano-plostic Silvering. 
 The cleansed surfaces of the articles to 
 be silvered are first washed with a so- 
 lution of nitrate of silver, so that a thin 
 film is formed. When dry, the article 
 is exposed to a current of sulphide of 
 hydrogen. The coating thus produced 
 is very conductive, and a deposit of 
 silver adheres very firmly to it when 
 the article is brought into the electro- 
 plating bath. 
 
 Silvering Tincture. Experiments 
 have shown the following receipt for a 
 silvering tincture to be excellent. Pre- 
 pare the following solutions : 
 
 A. 2 parts of burned lime, 5 of grape 
 sugar, 2 of tartaric acid, 650 of water. 
 
 The solution is filtered and put in 
 bottles which should be filled entirely 
 full and well corked. 
 
 B. Dissolve 20 parts of nitrate of 
 silver in 20 of aqua-ammonia, and then 
 add 650 of water. 
 
 Just before the tincture is to be used 
 mix solutions A and B together, shake 
 well and filter. Metals and dry vege- 
 table substances, such as wood tissues, 
 horn-buttons, ivory, etc., can be sil- 
 vered with this fluid. 
 
 Cold Silvering of Copper. The amal- 
 gam consists of 1 part of the finest tin 
 filings and 2 of mercury, which are in- 
 timately rubbed together in a porcelain 
 mortar. When a semi-' 
 
 a semi-liquid amalgam 
 (d, add 1 part of silver 
 
 has been obtained, add 1 part of silver 
 precipitated from a nitric suul solu- 
 tion by metallic z ; nc and thoroughly 
 washed. When ti.e mixture has been 
 made homogeneous by rubbing, mix it 
 thoroughly with about 8 parts ot bone- 
 dust. The process of silvering is car- 
 ried on by means of a moist cloth. The 
 silvering is accomplished at once, and 
 I is both beautiful and durable. The 
 i article should finally be rubbed with a 
 
ELECTRO-PLATING, GALVANOPLASTY, ETC. 
 
 113 
 
 dry cloth. If many and large pieces 
 are to be silvered, it is better to amal- 
 gamate the surfaces first by an instan- 
 taneous dip into a saturated solution of 
 mercury in nitric acid. This process 
 is technically called " quicking." 
 
 New Process for Making Silvered 
 Telescopic Mirrors, Telescopic reflect- 
 ing mirrors can be cheaply and easily 
 produced by the electroplating process. 
 Take a mould of a convex surface 
 made of a mixture which is either an 
 electrical conductor itself or else a non- 
 conductor metallized by the aid of ni- 
 trate of silver and phosphorus dissolved 
 in sulphide of carbon. la either case the 
 mould is plunged in an electroplating 
 bath of silver, where the current con- 
 ducted very slowly to the mould de- 
 termines a deposit of excellent quality. 
 
 When the silver has the thickness of 
 an ordinary sheet of paper, the bath of 
 that metal is replaced by one of copper 
 to obtain a solid backing. The mould 
 is then dissolved or melted, and the 
 mirror removed, nothing further being 
 necessary than a light polishing. Per- 
 fect mirrors 4 inches in diameter have 
 been produced in this manner. 
 
 New Process for Silvering Iron and 
 Steel. Pierre dt Villiers, of St. Leonards, 
 in England, has devised the following 
 process of silvering : he uses an alloy 
 of 80 parts of tin, 18 of lead, and 2 of 
 silver; or 90 parts of tin, 9 of lead, and 
 1 of silver. The tin is first melted, and 
 when the bath has acquired a white 
 lustre the granular lead is added, and 
 the mixture thoroughly stirred with a 
 pine stick. The partly melted silver is 
 then added, and again stirred. The 
 fire is now urged until the surface of 
 the bath assumes a light yellow color, 
 when it is vigorously stirred, and the 
 al loy poured out in ingots. The process 
 of silvering steel is carried on in the 
 following manner: The article, for in- 
 stance a knife-blade, is dipped in a so- 
 lution of hydrochloric or sulphuric acid 
 consisting of 1 to 10 parts of acid in 100 
 parts of distilled or rain water. When 
 taken from this acid bath it is at once 
 rinsed off in clean water, then dried and 
 rubbed with a piece of soft leather or a 
 dry sponge. It is then placed in a muf- 
 fle and exposed for five minutes to a 
 temperature of 150 to 175 F. The 
 object of this operation is to prepare 
 
 the steel for the reception of the alloy, 
 making it, so to speak, porous. The 
 article, while still retaining a heat of 
 120 to 140 F., is dipped in the above- 
 mentioned alloy, which has been melted 
 in a crucible of graphite or refractory 
 clay over a moderate fire. The bath 
 must be entirely liquid, and stirred with 
 a stick of pine or poplar wood. The 
 surface of the bath should have a beauti- 
 ful white silver-color. To coat a knife- 
 blade 2 minutes suffice for dipping. 
 Larger articles must be immersed up to 
 5 minutes. 
 
 After the article has been taken from 
 the bath it is dipped in cold water, or 
 treated otherwise as may be necessary 
 for hardening it, if required, but it must 
 not be left too long in the water as this 
 frequently renders it brittle. Nothing 
 further is now necessary than drying 
 the article, without the aid of heat, by 
 rubbing, and subsequently polishing. 
 
 The articles thus treated have an 
 appearance resembling silver and a 
 similar ring, and resist oxidation when 
 exposed to the air. To protect them 
 against acids they are dipped into a bath 
 of 60 parts of mercury, 39 of tin, and 1 
 of silver. While warm they are then 
 dipped in melted silver, or plated by 
 the electrolytic process. 
 
 The silvering is extraordinarily du- 
 rable. It is claimed that this process 
 is comparatively cheap. Should this 
 be the case, this process of silvering 
 might frequently be preferable to 
 nickelliug, as a coating of nickel is apt 
 to flake and nickelled articles soon lose 
 their lustre by handling. 
 
 Tinning of Cast-iron. Dissolve 1 
 part of chloride of tin in 10 of water, 
 and 2 parts of caustic soda in 20 of 
 water, and mix the two solutions. The 
 fluid will become turbid, but this exerts 
 no influence whatever upon the process 
 of tinning. The articles to be tinned 
 are heated before they are dipped into 
 the fluid. A fragment of metallic tin 
 should be placed in the bath during the 
 process, and the liquid must be fre- 
 quently stirred. 
 
 Another Receipt. Boil three parts 
 by weight of rye flour in 100 of water 
 for 30 minutes, and strain. Add to the 
 resulting fluid, which should be clear 
 but thickly fluid, 106 parts of sodium 
 phosphate, 17 of crystallized stannous 
 
114 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 chloride, 67 of solution of stannous 
 chloride, and 25 of sulphuric acid. 
 The articles are first thoroughly 
 cleansed and then dipped into the bath, 
 where they remain for a short time. 
 
 To Tin Cooking Utensils. The 
 articles are placed in a bath of 8 parts 
 of stannous chloride, 16 of tartar, and 2 
 of stannic chloride, the presence of the 
 latter accelerating the process. The 
 articles are connected by a wire with 
 the positive pole of a Bunsen's battery, 
 while the negative pole communicates 
 with a piece of tin dipping into the 
 fluid. 
 
 Cold Tinning. The articles are 
 freed from adhering grease by im- 
 mersion in boiling potash lye, then 
 pickled in an acid bath (15 to 20 per 
 cent, of sulphuric acid), carefully 
 scoured with sand, and brought into the 
 tinning bath. This consists of 7 to 10 
 ounces of tin salt, 10i ounces of alum, 
 7 ounces of tartar, in 22 gallons of 
 water. A strip of tin is wrapped 
 around the different articles before dip- 
 ping them into the bath, where they 
 remain for 8 or 10 hours or longer, 
 according to the thickness of the coating 
 they are to receive. The articles are 
 taken from the bath, rinsed off, and 
 placed in water in which from i to 
 ounce of carbonate of magnesia per 
 quart has been dissolved. 
 
 New Process of Galvanizing Iron. 
 The article to be galvanized is first 
 cleansed with diluted acid, next rinsed 
 off, then placed in a solution of zinc 
 salt, and connected with the positive 
 pole of a dynamo-machine. Zinc plates 
 connected with the negative pole are 
 suspended in the fluid, and the machine 
 is set to work. The surface of zinc pro- 
 duced in this manner is provided with 
 a metallic lustre by quickly moving 
 the articles over a fire, or placing them 
 in a chamber sufficiently hot to melt 
 the zinc. If at the instant that this 
 takes place a shock is given to the ar- 
 ticles, the coating will assume the span- 
 gled appearance so much sought after. 
 
 Gourlier's Salt Mixtures for Gal- 
 vanic Coppering, Bronzing, etc. The 
 following bath is used for coppering : 
 One thousand parts of distilled water, 
 40 of yellow prussiate of potash, 20 of 
 subsulphide of copper, and 20 of potas- 
 sium carbonate. 
 
 For a Coating of Brass add 25 part* 
 of sulphate of zinc to the coppering 
 fluid, and filter the solution. 
 
 The bath for Bronzing Wrouglit and 
 Cast-iron consists of 1000 parts of 
 distilled water, 58 of yellow prussiate 
 of potash, 15 of chloride of copper, 40 
 of tin salt, and 40 of sodium hyposul- 
 phite. Pour the above-mentioned bath 
 in a cast-iron boiler and heat over a 
 moderate fire. The metal to be coated 
 with copper, brass, or bronze is con- 
 nected with the cathode of the galvanic 
 battery and submerged in the bath, 
 using as an anode a piece of the metal 
 that is to be deposited. The metals to 
 be coated must first be thoroughly 
 cleansed or polished. 
 
 To Coat Wire with Brass. A warm 
 bath contained in an oval iron boiler 
 lined with sheet brass is used for deposit- 
 ing a coat of brass upon wire by galvanic 
 means. The sheets of brass are con- 
 nected with the copper pole of the 
 battery and dipped into the fluid. The 
 bundles of iron wire are first opened, 
 dipped into sulphuric acid, then sus- 
 pended to a strong wooden peg, and 
 scoured with a brush and sharp sand. 
 They are next placed over a strong 
 copper or brass rod resting upon the edge 
 of the boiler and insulated therefrom 
 by means of rubber tubes, and con- 
 nected with the zinc pole of the battery. 
 The wires now receive a coating of cop- 
 per, and then the deposit of brass. As 
 they are only partly submerged in the 
 bath, they must be turned from time 
 to time. They are finished by washing, 
 and drying in sawdust. For other 
 articles a cold bath is prepared in a box 
 lined with gutta-percha. 
 
 The baths are prepared in the follow- 
 ing manner : 
 
 Warm Bath. Four and three-quarter 
 ounces of blue vitriol, 4 to 5 ounces 
 of sulphate of zinc are dissolved in 1 
 gallon of water. The solution is pre- 
 cipitated with 2 pounds of crystallized 
 soda, decanted and washed. A solution 
 of 1 pound of soda and 8i ounces of 
 sodium bisulphate in 1 gallon of water 
 is poured over the precipitate. The 
 mixture is stirred and commercial po- 
 tassium cyanide added until the fluid 
 becomes clear. The fluid is then 
 filtered off from the suspended ferric 
 oxide. 
 
ENAMELS AND ENAMELLING. 
 
 115 
 
 For the cold bath mix : 
 
 Calcium carbonate, freshly pre- 
 pared 2J4 ounces. 
 
 Carbonate of zinc 2J4 " 
 
 Sodium carbonate 4J^ " 
 
 Monosodium hydrogen sulphite . 4}xj " 
 
 Potassium cyanide 9 " 
 
 Arsenious acid 1^ drachm. 
 
 Water 1 gallon. 
 
 Coppering Bath for Wrought and 
 Cast-iron or Steel Articles. Melt in a 
 crucible 1 part of dry chloride of cop- 
 per and 5 or 6 parts of cryolite, com- 
 bined with chloride of barium to make 
 it more fusible. This mixture will 
 give a permanent coating of any desired 
 thickness to the articles, according to 
 duration of their immersion. 
 
 Simple Fire-plating for Iron. A me- 
 tallic surface washed with sodium amal- 
 gam will take up a concentrated solution 
 of gold poured upon it, and after driv- 
 ijlg off the mercury by the heat of a 
 lamp will present a gilded surface 
 capable of being polished, and will also 
 show any design drawn upon the first 
 metal. 
 
 Method and Apparatus for Preparing 
 Paper Matrices for Stereotype Plates. 
 The separate layers of the matrix are 
 pasted together with a paste of starch, 
 glue, glycerine, turpentine, and water. 
 The matrix, while still moist, is taken 
 from the types, and dried in a wire frame 
 by hot air. 
 
 The wire frame b (Fig. 11) is placed 
 in the muffle c, which is provided on 
 
 Fig. 11. 
 
 the top with holes d for the escape of 
 the moisture, and heated by the furnace 
 gases conveyed to it through the flue g. 
 In the muffle is another heating pipe 
 
 mx provided with openings through 
 which the air heated in the flue g is 
 conveyed into the interior of the muffle. 
 
 Composition fur Moulds for Ga/vano- 
 plastic Deposits. Melt together 6 parts 
 of white wax, 2 of asphaltum, 2 of stea- 
 rine, and 1 of lard, and add sufficient 
 lampblack to color the massdeep black. 
 To give more body to the mixture, and 
 to prevent it from sticking to the model, 
 add some plaster of Paris. The model 
 is then oiled, and the melted composi- 
 tion poured over it at as low a temper- 
 ature as possible. When cold it will 
 form a durable mould. 
 
 Elastic Moulds for Galvanoplastic 
 Copies in very high relief can be pre- 
 pared from 20 parts of glue and 2 of 
 brown rock-candy. Both substances 
 are dissolved in sufficient hot water to 
 form, on cooling, a stiff" jelly. After 
 the elastic moulds have been prepared, 
 they are used as a matrix for the stiff* 
 moulds by pouring into them a tepid 
 mixture of 12 parts of yellow wax, 12 
 of mutton suet, and 4 of rosin. This 
 mass, on cooling, becomes very solid. 
 
 ENAMELS AND ENAMELLING. 
 
 To Enamel Cast-iron Utensils. This 
 is done in Lower Silesia by means of 
 two masses, one for a ground, and the 
 other for a surface coat. For the^round 
 mass 110 pounds of quartz, 50 pounds 
 of borax, and 16 pounds of fluorspar 
 are ground as fine as possible, and fused 
 together in clay crucibles. Thirty-five 
 pounds of the resulting mass are then 
 mixed with 14 to 27 i pounds of quartz, 
 9 to 14 pounds of gray clay and 1 pound 
 of borax. This mixture is ground, and 
 during the grinding there should be 
 added 5 j pounds of clay and H pounds 
 of borax. The composition is then 
 formed into a paste with water, applied 
 to the vessels and burned in. 
 
 For the surface coat the following 
 ingredients are mixed together: 
 
 Fluorspar 5^ pounds. 
 
 Xinc oxide 2 1 4 " 
 
 Stannic oxide 10% " 
 
 Bone flour 1 V(> pound. 
 
 Snmltine 1 to \% ounces, 
 
 To this are added : 
 
 Fluorspar 35 l / 4 pounds. 
 
 Borax 20 to 21^ 
 
116 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Sodium carbonate 7 pounds 
 
 Nitre 2% to 3# 
 
 and the mixture fused in refractory 
 crucibles with a hole in the bottom 
 through which the liquid mass escapes 
 into a vessel placed beneath the fur- 
 nace. The mass, when cold, is pounded 
 and ground, and 4 ounces of washed 
 white clay and i pound of zinc oxide 
 added, daring the grinding process, to 
 every 66 pounds of the mass. The com- 
 position is then applied like the first, 
 and burned in. 
 
 Enamel for Sheet-iron Vessels. 
 Cleanse the vessels by " pickling " in 
 diluted sulphuric acid, rinse off with 
 water, and scour with hne sand. Then 
 apply a solution of gum Arabic in 
 water ; dust upon this, while still moist, 
 the enamelling powder, and dry at 212 
 F. When the vessel is dry, knock the 
 excess of powder gently off with the 
 hand, and observe whether there are 
 any places which have not been dusted. 
 Should this be the case, they must be 
 again treated in the same manner. 
 The enamel is prepared in the follow- 
 ing manner : Sixty-five parts of pow- 
 dered crystal glass, 10 of calcined soda, 
 and 6 of boracic acid are mixed, ground 
 and sifted several times to make them 
 homogeneous. This powder, after be- 
 ing liquefied upon the sheet-iron vessel 
 in a red hot muffle, forms the ground 
 for the actual enamelling, which is not 
 quite so refractory. This consists of 65 
 parts of crystal glass, 10 of calcined 
 soda, 2 of boracic acid, and 4 of litharge. 
 
 To Enamel Iron. Powder and mix 
 3V ounces of crystal glass, 1 ounce of 
 purified potash, 1 ounce of saltpetre, i 
 ounce of borax, and 5i ounces of minium. 
 Heat the ingredients in a clean covered 
 crucible, whereby a strong effervescence 
 will at first take place, and the mass 
 will finally fuse to clear liquid glass. 
 This is poured upon an iron plate 
 previously moistened, cooled off with 
 water, and rubbed to a thin paste iipon 
 a glass plate. Pour this paste over the 
 article to be enamelled, allow it to dry 
 very slowly, and then place the article 
 in a hot muffle furnace. The enamel 
 will in a few minutes fuse very uni- 
 formly without bubbles and form a 
 lustrous, transparent surface. 
 
 To impart an agreeable tint to this 
 
 enamel, mix with the above 1 drachms 
 of a preparation of cobalt obtained by 
 saturating nitric acid with cobalt, de- 
 composing this with common salt and 
 evaporating the mixture to dryness. 
 This gives a pale blue color to the 
 enamel. 
 
 To Enamel Copper Cooking Utensils. 
 Powder and mix 12 parts of white fluor- 
 spar, 12 of uuburned gypsum, and 1 of 
 borax, and fuse the mixture in a cru- 
 cible. Pour the mass out and when 
 cold rub it into a paste with water. 
 Apply this with a brush to the inside 
 of the vessel, and place this in a 
 moderately warm place, so that the 
 paste will dry uniformly. When dry, 
 heat the vessel to such a degree in a 
 muffle furnace that the paste, which 
 has been applied, liquefies. When cold, 
 the result will be a white, opaque 
 enamel. 
 
 A tiother Process of Enamelling Cast- 
 iron. Keep the articles at a red heat 
 in sand for i hour, cool off slowly, and 
 cleanse them with hot diluted sul- 
 phuric or hydrochloric acid ; then 
 rinse with water, and dry. Coat them 
 with a mixture composed of 6 parts of 
 flint glass, 3 of borax, 1 of minium, 1 
 of oxide of zinc, finely powdered and 
 roasted for 4 hours at a red heat, then 
 rendered semi-fluid by increased tem- 
 perature, then cooled in cold water, and 
 1 part of it mixed with 2 parts of bone 
 meal and made into a paste Ayith water. 
 When the coating on the article is dry, 
 apply a mixture composed of 32 parts 
 of calcined bones, 16 of kaolin, 14 of 
 feldspar, 4 of potash, mixed with water, 
 dried, cooled, and, when powdered, 
 made into a paste with 16 parts of flint 
 glass, 5i parts of calcined bones, and 3 
 of calcined quartz with sufficient water. 
 When this second coat is dry, apply a 
 mixture composed of 4 parts of feldspar, 
 4 of pure sand, 4 of potash, 6 of borax, 
 1 of oxide of zinc, 1 of saltpetre, 1 of 
 white arsenic, and 1 of pure chalk, 
 mixed, calcined and cooled, and rubbed 
 to a fine powder with 3| parts of cal- 
 cined bones and 3 of quartz. The 
 coated articles are heated in a muffle in 
 a furnace, which fuses the last two coat- 
 ings, and forms an adhesive and bril- 
 liant white enamel. 
 
 To Enamel and Cement Metals and 
 Other Substances. Cleanse the surface. 
 
ENAMELS AND ENAMELLING. 
 
 117 
 
 of the metal and coat it with water- 
 glass. Then treat it with a mixture of 
 waterglass and pulverized asbestos, to 
 which lime or gypsum can be added, 
 and heat it strongly. 
 
 This mixture may also be used to 
 join metallic and other substances. 
 
 Enamel for Watch Dials. The dials 
 are prepared with a backing of sheet- 
 iron having raised edges to receive the 
 enamel in powder, which is fused. After 
 cooling, the lettering and figuring are 
 printed on the plate with soft black 
 enamel by transferring. The dial is 
 again placed in a muffle to fuse the 
 enamel of the lettering or figuring. 
 The enamel used is composed of white 
 lead, arsenic, flint glass, saltpetre, 
 borax, and ground flint, reduced to 
 powder, fused, and formed into cakes. 
 
 Colored Enamels. The ingredients are 
 pounded to a fine powder in a stone mor- 
 tar and then placed in a heated crucible. 
 
 To prepare the fluxes a suitable fur- 
 nace is used, which must be entirely free 
 from rust and lined up to the cover 
 with fire-bricks set in clay so that only 
 the opening for the door remains free. 
 Through a hole in the centre of the 
 cover, which is also provided with a 
 cover, the ingredients in the crucible 
 are stirred with an iron rod. 
 
 To secure the crucible a piece of 
 brick is laid upon the grate. The firing 
 is done either with charcoal alone or 
 with charcoal mixed with coke. 
 
 Preparation of Fluxes. I. Fuse: 
 Eight parts of minium, 1-1 of borax, 
 
 2 of ground flint, and 6 of flint 
 glass. 
 
 II. Fuse: Ten parts of flint glass, 1 
 of white arsenic, and 1 of saltpetre. 
 
 III. Fuse: One part of minium and 
 
 3 of flint glass. 
 
 IV. Fuse : Nine and one-half parts 
 of minium, 5\ of borax, and 8 of flint 
 glass. 
 
 V. Fuse : Six parts of flint glass, 7 
 of the flux prepared according to No. 
 II., and 8 of minium. 
 
 VI. Fuse : Six parts of the flux pre- 
 pared according to No. IV., with 1 of 
 colcothar. 
 
 VII. Fuse: Six parts of minium, 4 
 of borax, and 2 of powdered flint. 
 
 The fluxes prepared as above are 
 cooled off' in water, then dried and finally 
 powdered in a stone mortar. 
 
 Blue Enamel. Powder and mix 4 
 parts of black oxide of cobalt, 9 of flint, 
 and 13 of saltpetre. Fuse them thor- 
 oughly over a charcoal or coke fire, 
 pulverize, wash in cold water, and 
 triturate 1 part of this powder with 1 of 
 flux No. V. 
 
 Another Receipt. Fuse together 1 
 part of black oxide of cobalt and 1 of 
 borax. Then mix by melting over a 
 good fire 2 parts of this, 10 of blue 
 pot metal glass, and of minium. 
 
 Brown Enamel. Fuse together 2 
 parts of pyrolusite, 8 of minium, and 
 
 4 of pulverized flint. Take 1 parts of 
 this mixture and triturate it with 1 
 part of flux No. IV., and li of iron 
 filings. 
 
 Reddish-Brown Enamel. Triturate 
 in water 1 part of brown sulphate of 
 iron and 3 of flux No. I. 
 
 Vandyke-Brown Enamel. Fuse to- 
 gether in a crucible 3 parts of flux 
 No. IV., and 1 of iron filings, and lift 
 it out by the tongs. Take 5 parts of 
 this and 1 of black oxide of cobalt, 
 and rub to a paste with water. 
 
 Yellow Enamel. Mix in a stone 
 mortar 8 parts of minium, 1 of anti- 
 mony oxide, and 1 of white oxide of 
 tin. Place the mixture in a crucible, 
 bring it to a red heat, then cool it off, 
 and rub 1 part of this and 4i of flux 
 No. IV. to a paste with water. 
 
 Orange Enamel. Mix and heat 
 without fusing 12 parts of minium, 1 
 of red sulphate of iron, 4 of antimony 
 oxide, and 3 of pulverized flint. Tritu- 
 rate with water 1 part of this and 2 
 of flux No. VII. 
 
 Green Enamel. Triturate with water 
 
 5 parts of green frit, of flux No. II., 
 and 24 of flux No. VI. The green 
 frit is prepared by fusing together 3 
 parts of pulverized flint, 3 of flux No. 
 [., li of green pot metal glass, 1\ of 
 minium, 7i of borax, and l of green 
 oxide of copper. Pound the mixture 
 to a fine powder in a stone mortar. 
 
 Dark Red Enamel. Triturate with 
 water 1 part of brown sulphate of iron 
 and 2.V of flux No. VII. 
 
 Pale Red Enamel. Triturate with 
 water 1 part of red sulphate of iron, 3 
 of flux No. I., and H of white lead. 
 
 Black Enamel. Triturate with water 
 L part of black calcined umber, 1> of 
 oxide of cobalt, 1^ of black oxide 
 
118 
 
 TECHNO-CIIEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 of copper, and 3 of flux No. IV. Allow 
 it to dry thoroughly, then heat it in 
 a fire upon a brick covered with pul- 
 verized flint, and add i part of flux 
 No. III. 
 
 Very Beautiful Black Enamel for 
 Inlaying and Ground. Mix and tritu- 
 rate with sufficient water 1 part of 
 black oxide of copper and 2 of flux 
 No. IV. 
 
 Black Enamel for Painting and 
 Mixing with Other Colors. Heat small 
 pieces of umber in a crucible until 
 they become black ; then wash in boil- 
 ing water and dry. 
 
 Fuse together 10 parts of this pre- 
 pared umber, 10 of black oxide of 
 cobalt, 10\ of blue flint glass, 7i of 
 borax, and 12 of minium. For use, 
 triturate 2 parts of this mixture and 1 
 of flux No. IV. 
 
 Opaque White Enamel. Calcine in 
 a cruciole 1 part of buck's-horn shav- 
 ings until they are entirely white, and 
 rub them to a paste with 1 part of flux 
 No. I. Then triturate with water 1 
 part of Venetian white enamel in 
 cakes, and 1 of flux No. VIII., and 
 fuse the two mixtures together. 
 
 Glass Enamel for Iron. The articles, 
 kitchen utensils, signs, etc., coated 
 with this enamel, are not affected by 
 atmospheric influences, nor destroyed 
 by an ordinary fire, and do not rust. 
 
 Intimately mix 4 parts of powdered 
 glass, 2 of spar, 1 of saltpetre, i of a 
 part of zinc oxide. Fuse them in a 
 crucible, and pour into moulds to be- 
 come cool. For use, the necessary 
 quantity is triturated with water. Heat 
 the iron utensil to a red heat in a 
 muffle furnace and apply the enamel, 
 which will present a brilliant glass 
 appearance. To color the enamel bine, 
 add cobalticoxide ; for red, ammonium ; 
 for black, manganic oxide ; for yellow, 
 uranic oxide; for brown, ferric oxide; 
 for green, a mixture of 2 parts of stan- 
 nic oxkle and 1 of manganic oxide; 
 for pure white, stannic oxide. 
 
 Niello. This metallic enamel is 
 composed of 4 parts of fine silver, 9 of 
 pure copper, 9 of pure lead, 2 of borax, 
 and 48 of flowers of sulphur. The 
 silver is first melted, the copper is then 
 added and, when both are liquid, the 
 lead. The melted metals are stirred 
 with stick charcoal to insure homo- 
 
 geneity. The mixture is then poured 
 into a large crucible containing the 
 sulphur. The crucible is placed again 
 upon the fire for a few minutes to keep 
 the mass liquid. It is then poured 
 over brushwood into water so that 
 granules are formed. These granules are 
 collected, dried by exposure to the air, 
 and then pulverized in a mortar. This 
 powder is mixed with spirit of sal-am- 
 moniac to a paste, applied by heating 
 the object to be decorated and rubbing 
 the paste into the lines. '1 he design is 
 engraved on the metal object to be 
 ornamented, the lines being more pro- 
 nounced and stronger than on an or- 
 dinary copper plate for printing. When 
 skilfully applied the paste adheres 
 firmly. An excess of it is removed by 
 files, the surface is then stoned and 
 polished. Niello is undoubtedly the 
 best means for decorating, in a quiet, 
 rich manner, surfaces exposed to fric- 
 tion or wear; it is tougher than euame! . 
 
 FEATHERS, OSTRICH, MARABOUTS, 
 ETC. How TO WASH, RESTORE, AND 
 DYE. 
 
 Ostrich feathers, as is well known, 
 are used most for ornamental purposes. 
 The most beautiful ostrich feathers 
 come into the market from Algiers, 
 Btirbary, and the Cnpe of Good Hope; 
 inferior qualities from /Senegal, Mada- 
 gascar , and by way of Alexandria. 
 The next prominent are the cock 
 feathers. 
 
 Heron plumes from different va- 
 rieties of herons are dearer and scarcer. 
 The black feathers, which come mostly 
 from Crete, are very highly valued, the 
 white less so. The latter come from 
 Crete, Canada, and the East Indies; 
 the gray mostly from East Prussia. 
 
 Falcon plumes are the feathers of the 
 gerfalcon. 
 
 Bird of Paradise plumes are the 
 tail and wing feathers of a species of 
 bird inhabiting New Guinea and New 
 Holland. 
 
 J/ irahouts. These come mostly from 
 South America, especially from the 
 American ostrich. According to others 
 from, a species of stork inhabiting the 
 East Indies, Java, etc., where it is 
 i frequently raised for the sake of its 
 
FEATHERS-TO WASH, RESTORE, AND DYE. 
 
 119 
 
 feathers. Imitations of marabouts are 
 produced from the white down of the 
 turkey. 
 
 To Wash Feathers and Marabouts. 
 Take a piece of white soap of the size 
 of a walnut and dissolve it in a pint of 
 water by heating over a fire. When 
 the soap water has become tepid pour 
 it into a wash bowl and dip the feather 
 into it. Then take the feather into the 
 left hand and, with the thumb and in- 
 dex finger of the right hand, squeeze 
 carefully from the top down to the bot- 
 tom of the vane. After having cleansed 
 the feathers in this manner dip them in 
 fresh, clean water, rinse them off care- 
 fully, and starch them by dipping in 
 water in which a tablespoonfnl of raw 
 starch has been dissolved, and colored 
 with a few drops of liquid wash-blue. 
 Feathers which have been frequeutly 
 washed especially require this starch- 
 ing. After the feathers have been 
 starched lay them upon a clean linen 
 cloth and allow them to dry in sum- 
 mer in the sun, in winter near a fire. 
 Before they are entirely dry rub them 
 between the hands until they have re- 
 gained their former appearance. As 
 the paper wrapped around the wire 
 softens during the washing it must be 
 renewed. For this purpose cut long 
 and narrow strips of paper. Fasten the 
 strip where the wire joins the feather, 
 and wrap the paper obliquely around 
 the wire by turning the latter between 
 the fingers. 
 
 To Bleach Feathers. Feathers turned 
 yellow are bleached, according to one 
 process, by soaking them for a few 
 hours in a warm soap bath (175 to 185 
 F.), which should not be too strong, 
 rinsing, and exposing them, strung 
 upon a thread, for some time to the sun, 
 frequently moistening them in the 
 meanwhile. 
 
 According to another process, the 
 feathers, after having been treated in 
 the warm soap bath, are rinsed off and 
 brought into a bath of water acidulated 
 with sulphurous acid. Here they re- 
 main for 20 to 30 hours, are then washed, 
 drawn through a weak, lukewarm soap 
 bath, and dried in the sun, or left in the 
 sun for 1 or 2 days, being frequently 
 moistened. 
 
 According to Dobereiner a solution 
 of carbonate of ammonia is the best 
 
 ! means of bleaching feathers, as it effects 
 j the same purpose in a much shorter 
 time than sulphurous acid. 
 
 To jRestore Crushed and Bent Feath- 
 . ers. Expose the feathers for a few 
 j moments to steaming, or dip them for 
 \ one minute into boiling water. Then 
 | take them out and let them lie for some 
 ! time in water of medium temperature. 
 j To be convinced of the extraordinary 
 I effect of this simple process it is only 
 I necessary to crush an ordinary goose- 
 ! quill lengthwise and to treat it in this 
 manner, when it will come from the 
 j water-bath in a condition which will 
 I not show in the slightest degree that it 
 ever had been bent or crushed. 
 
 To Dye Feathers. The dyeing of 
 
 feathers is not very difficult; it can be 
 
 done either warm or cold. All colors, 
 
 except black, take the more brilliantly 
 
 1 the whiter the feathers were before 
 
 ' dyeing. 
 
 The quill is first made as porous as 
 possible without injuring its lustre. 
 j This is done by rubbing it with a piece 
 I of carbonate of ammonia without allow- 
 ing the thumb of the hand to touch the 
 quill. By this the horn-like skin upon 
 the quill is softened and the oil removed 
 from the surface. The feather is next 
 placed in a warm soap bath and then 
 rinsed in cold water until all traces of 
 soap have been removed. The feathers 
 are then prepared for dyeing. 
 
 To remove the oil, Reimann recom- 
 mends baths of carbonate of ammonia 
 or a weak solution of soda, in which the 
 feathers are carefully placed so that 
 they cannot bend or break. After they 
 have been dyed they must be kept in 
 constant motion while drying, so that 
 the down will raise up and the feather 
 assume its natural shape and form. 
 
 To Dye Feathers Black. This is the 
 most important and at the same time 
 most difficult color. A warm bath (85 
 F.) of 10 gallons of water in which 1 
 pound of soda has been dissolved is 
 used for 8 ounces of feathers. The 
 quills are rubbed with a piece of car- 
 bonate of ammonia, and the feathers 
 placed in the bath and allowed to re- 
 main for 24 hours. Instead of soda, 
 twice the quantity of carbonate of am- 
 monia may be used and the feathers 
 i allowed to remain in the bath over 
 i night. They are then taken out, rinsed 
 
120 
 
 TECHNO-CIIEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 off with warm water, and placed for 5 
 to 6 hours in a bath of ferric nitrate 7 
 Beaume strong, when they are taken 
 out and rinsed in cold water. Now 
 make an infusion of 2 pounds of log- 
 wood and 2 pounds of quercitron ; place 
 the feathers in the tepid bath, work 
 them while in it, and heat the latter 
 gradually until it is hot, but not to the 
 boiling point. Finally dissolve 3 
 ounces of potash in H gallons of water, 
 and stir 8 ounces of oil into the solu- 
 tion until it is uniformly distributed in 
 it. Draw the feathers separately through 
 this bath, allow them to drain off, and 
 swing them. For this purpose the 
 quills of all the feathers are fastened to 
 a long cord and this is put up in a dry- 
 ing chamber. Several such cords are 
 connected in the centre by a cord drawn 
 across them, the end of which is moved 
 to and fro for some time. By this means 
 a constant swinging motion is imparted 
 to the feathers suspended to the cords 
 while they are drying, and they thus 
 regain their natural lustre. If but few 
 feathers are to be dyed, take each feather 
 by the quill and swing it before the 
 open door of a stove until it is dry. 
 Many dyers, after the feathers have 
 been dyed and rinsed, place them in 
 layers in a box, dusting each layer with 
 gypsum. They are taken out, while 
 still moist, and dried by swinging, when 
 the last traces of gypsum are removed 
 with a soft brush. In this case no oil 
 bath is used. The quills are then 
 rubbed smooth and the feathers curled 
 with a suitable iron-. 
 
 Other Receipts for Dr/cinq Feathers 
 Black. I. A mordant is prepared by 
 dissolving : 
 
 Green vitriol 1 pound. 
 
 Blue vitriol 4 ounces 
 
 Alum . . 4 
 
 In water 1% gallons. 
 
 The feathers to be dyed are kept in 
 this solution for 3 days, being frequently 
 turned during the time, when they are 
 taken out and rinsed in clean, cold 
 water. Now prepare an infusion of: 
 
 Ground logwood 1 pound. 
 
 Ground fustic 1 " 
 
 In water K to 2 gallon. 
 
 When it has been thoroughly boiled, 
 filter the decoction, place the mordanted 
 
 feathers in it, and allow them to re* 
 main until they are entirely black. 
 Take them out and rinse them in cold 
 water until this runs off entirely clear. 
 They are then dried and rubbed be- 
 tween the hands with a very small 
 quantity of oil, and finally curled. 
 
 II. Mix 2 pounds of a solution of 
 ferric nitrate of 60 Beaume with If 
 gallons of cold water. Keep the feath- 
 ers in this mixture for 12 hours. Then 
 take them out, rinse in cold water, and 
 finish the dyeing in a mixture of 6i 
 pounds of an infusion of logwood and a 
 like quantity of an infusion of fustic, 
 not hotter than the hand can bear. 
 Place the cold feathers in this bath and 
 heat gradually in a water-bath. When 
 the feathers have absorbed the coloring 
 matter take them out and add to the 
 bath i ounce of turmeric. Place the 
 feathers in this for -V hour. After they 
 are dyed black bring them successively 
 into 3 lukewarm baths of soap and 
 water and then dry them. When dry 
 rub them between the hands with a lit- 
 tle oil and curl them. 
 
 To Dye Feathers Brown. Prepare 
 the feathers in the same manner as for 
 dyeing black, and treat them in an in- 
 fusion of 2 poijnds of catechu in the 
 same manner as given under black. 
 After they have been taken from this 
 bath place them in a warm bath 120 
 to 140 F. of 4 ounces of potassium 
 chromate in 1J gallons of water, and 
 work them until they are dyed. If a 
 
 J)ark Brown Color is desired, put the 
 feathers, after they have been taken 
 from the catechu bath, into a cold bath 
 of acetate of iron of 2 Beaume, and 
 then into the potassium chromate bath. 
 
 Puce-colored. Dissolve 4 ounces of 
 alum in 3 quarts of water. Soak the 
 feathers in this for 12 hours, take them 
 out, rinse with cold water, and place 
 them in a lukewarm bath of 4^ pounds 
 of infusion of logwood, and a like 
 quantity of infusion of Brazil wood 
 until they have acquired the desired 
 color. Then take them out, wash, and 
 place them repeatedly in a quite hot 
 bath of logwood and Brazil wood, 
 when the puce-color will be obtained. 
 The color may also be produced by 
 placing the feathers in a bath of J 
 gallon of cold water and a like quantity 
 of decoction of logwood, and heating 
 
FEATHERS TO WASH, RESTORE, AND DYE. 
 
 121 
 
 this. The feathers are then taken out, 
 3 ounces of hydroehlorate of tin are 
 added to the bath, the feathers re- 
 placed in it, and allowed to remain 
 until the bath is cold. They are then 
 taken out and rinsed off with cold 
 water. 
 
 To Dye Feathers Blue. Prepare a 
 solution of 1 pound of finely ground 
 indigo in 4 pounds of sulphuric acid. 
 Of this solution stir 10 drops into 
 | pint of boiling water, and fix the 
 color contained in this fluid on a close 
 white woollen cloth of about 2 square 
 inches. Then remove every trace of 
 acid by washing with clean cold water. 
 After the cloth has been wrung out 
 place it in a solution of 1 ounce of 
 crystallized soda in 3-V pints of boiling 
 water, draw off the fluid, and dissolve 
 in it 2i ounces of tartaric acid. If the 
 feathers are to be dyed pearl blue, dis- 
 solve 1 ounce of alum in 2 gallons of 
 water, add to this 55 gallons of indigo 
 solution, place the feathers in the bath, 
 and heat by placing the tub in boiling 
 water. As soon as the feathers have 
 acquired the desired color they are 
 dried without washing. For darker 
 colors take more indigo solution. 
 
 To Di/e with Indigo Red. A light 
 blue color is produced by placing the 
 feathers in a solution of i ounce of 
 tartaric acid, and 1 ounce of indigo 
 red in 1J pints of water. By adding a 
 little alum to the solution the color be- 
 comes more durable. 
 
 Bleu de France. Dissolve 4 ounces 
 of tin salt in 2 gallons of water, then 
 add 3 pounds of ferric nitrate of 50 
 Beau me, and stir 1 pound of sulphuric 
 acid into the fluid. Then prepare a 
 mordanting bath by taking 1 pound of 
 the above fluid and 1 gallon of cold 
 water. Mordant the feathers in this, 
 rinse them thoroughly, and dye by 
 placing them in a solution of 2 ounces 
 of red phosphate of iron in water, and 
 heating the bath. The feathers must 
 be dipped alternately into the mor- 
 danting and the dyeing bath. After 
 they have passed through the last 
 bath, which should be that of phos- 
 phate of iron, they are drawn through 
 a bath acidulated with tartaric acid. 
 
 Crimson and Ruby-Red. Dissolve 
 1 pound of alum in l gallons of water, 
 soak the feathers in this solution for a 
 
 few daySj take them out and rinse in 
 cold water. To dye the feathers crim- 
 son, place them in 13 pounds of a de- 
 coction of Brazil wood and heat the 
 bath. For ruby red, add to the above 
 bath 1 pound of blue archil liquor, 
 place the feathers in it and, when dyed, 
 rinse them in cold water. By adding 
 4 ounces of ground turmeric to this 
 bath the feathers can be dyed chestnut 
 brown. The decoction of Brazil wood 
 used is prepared by boiling 1 pound of 
 ground Brazil wood in ij gallons of 
 water, and straining the liquor. 
 
 Rose-color. A fine rose-color is pro* 
 duced by dyeing the feathers with 
 cartharnine. Put the carthamine in 
 warm water, place the feathers in the 
 fluid until they have absorbed the dye- 
 stuff, and then take them out. Now 
 compound the bath with some tartaric 
 acid, place the feathers repeatedly in 
 this, rinse them out in cold water 
 acidulated with tartaric acid, dry, and 
 curl them. 
 
 For Dark Rose-color use the same 
 baths of carthamine and of tartaric 
 acid, but each by itself. It is best to 
 dip the feathers" alternately into the 
 acid bath and the carthamine bath, 
 but they must be finished in the acid 
 bath. 
 
 Yellow. Mordant the feathers with 
 alum or a solution of acetate of alumina, 
 and then rinse them with water. Now 
 prepare a decoction of quercitron bark 
 freed from tannin, by precipitating it 
 with a solution of animal glue, or an 
 infusion of fustic, and finish dyeing the 
 feathers in this. 
 
 A yellow color can also be produced 
 by pouring boiling water over powdered 
 turmeric, placing the feathers in the 
 warm fluid for 5 minutes, when they 
 are taken out. Some tartaric acid is 
 now added to the bath, the feathers are 
 again placed into it and allowed to re- 
 main for 5 minutes longer, then rinsed 
 with cold water, and dried. 
 
 Garnet-Brown. The dye is obtained 
 by adding to the bath for ruby red (see 
 above) 4i ounces of finely ground tur- 
 meric, heating the bath and dyeing the 
 feathers in it. 
 
 Gray is produced by dyeing the feath- 
 ers in a sumac bath and passing them 
 afterwards through a solution of sul- 
 phate of iron. 
 
122 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Green. Boil 2 pounds of fustic twice, 
 each time in li gallons of water, and 
 dissolve 2i ounces of alum and 1 ounce 
 of tartaric acid in the decoctions. Place 
 the feathers for a short time in this 
 solution, then take them out, add 
 solution of indigo, or indigo-red, to the 
 bath ; and dip the feathers repeatedly 
 in it. When the feathers have assumed 
 a light green color rinse them with 
 acidulated water. For a dark green 
 color add more blue. 
 
 Chestnut-brown. The feathers are 
 first dyed ruby-red and then garnet- 
 brown, next washed, and placed for 5 
 minutes in a solution of 4i ounces of 
 sulphate of iron in 3 pints of water. 
 They are then rinsed, replaced in the 
 dye bath, and heated. 
 
 Lilac. This color is produced with 
 archil, and the different shades by means 
 of indigo-red and alum. A weak solu- 
 tion of logwood and hydrochlorate of 
 tin may also be used. 
 
 Orange. Boil 1 pound of the best 
 annotto with 4i ounces of potash in If 
 quarts of water until they are dissolved. 
 Then let the fluid cool off to a hand 
 heat, when the feathers are placed in 
 the bath and allowed to remain in it 
 until they have acquired the desired 
 shade of color, then they are rinsed 
 with lukewarm soap water and passed 
 through a weakly acidulated bath. 
 
 Ruby-red. Distribute 1 pound of 
 cudbear in If gallons of water, place 
 the feathers in the bath and heat it to a 
 hand heat. When the feathers have 
 acquired a ruby-red color they are 
 washed in clean water, dried, and then 
 curled. 
 
 Violet is produced by soaking the 
 feathers in a solution of alum, dyeing 
 in a simple decoction of logwood, rins- 
 ing, drying, and finishing. 
 
 To Dye Feathers with Aniline Colors. 
 Feathers may be dyed without prelimi- 
 nary preparation in a lukewarm bath 
 of aniline colors. For lighter shades 
 of color they are placed, after having 
 been freed from oil, in the sulphuring 
 chamber and sulphured. The dyeing 
 bath is prepared by adding the filtered 
 solution of the aniline color to luke- 
 warm water. The feathers, after hav- 
 ing been prepared in the manner as 
 mentioned in the commencement of this 
 article, are worked in the bath until 
 
 they have assumed the desired color. 
 The further treatment in rinsing and 
 drying is the same as mentioned under 
 black. 
 
 Rose-color. Use a weak solution of 
 fuchsine, and a strong solution for ma- 
 genta. 
 
 Reddish-blue. Use Bleu de Lyons, 
 which will dissolve in water. 
 
 Greenish-blue. Use Bleu de lumiZre, 
 soluble in water. 
 
 Genuine Alkali-Hue (Nicholson's 
 blue) can also be used for dyeing feath- 
 ers by dissolving 1 ounce of soda in the 
 dyeing bath, and adding the solution 
 of alkali-blue. The feathers are then 
 
 E laced in the bath and dyed a light 
 lue ; then they are brought into a bath 
 of 1 ounce of sulphuric acid. 
 
 Green is produced by dyeing the 
 feathers in a solution of aniline green ; 
 Orange in a solution of yellow coral- 
 line; 
 
 Puce in a solution of red coralline. 
 By adding ammonia to a solution of 
 yellow coralline it changes from oranyc 
 to red, and the red solution is changed 
 back into orange by an addition of 
 acetic acid. Therefore, by adding aqua- 
 ammonia to a solution of yellow coral- 
 line, every shade of color can be ob- 
 tained and used for dyeing, 
 
 A bronze-lustre can be given to the 
 tips of the down by using the following 
 process : Blue or red patent-violet is 
 dissolved in alcohol 90 per cent, strong 
 by placing it in the water bath. The 
 places which are to be bronzed are 
 brushed over with this solution after 
 the feathers have been dyed and oiled. 
 The alcohol evaporates quickly and a 
 beautiful bronze remains behind. Only 
 the violet dissolvable in alcohol should 
 be used for the purpose, as that soluble 
 in water rubs off on the fingers. 
 
 FIRE-EXTINGUISHING AGENTS AND 
 MEANS OP MAKING TISSUES, WOOD, 
 ETC., INCOMBUSTIBLE. 
 
 Such substances as ammonium sul- 
 phate, borax, sodium phosphate and 
 tungstate, and, last but not least, water- 
 glass, which were recommended years 
 ago by Gay-Lussac, Fuchs, and others, 
 form essentially the staple of most of 
 the means recommended at the present 
 
FIRE-EXTINGUISHING AGENTS, ETC. 
 
 123 
 
 time, although other substances have Although the impregnated substances 
 als 1 ) been used with more or less sue- do not ignite in an ordinary flame, they 
 cess. In the following we give the ; cannot resist the more intense heat of a 
 results of analyses and experiments JSunsen burner. 
 
 made in the laboratory of the <l Chemi- 
 ker Zeitung." 
 
 Mn n ic/i Fire-extinguishing 
 
 If tissues are to be dyed and impreg- 
 nated it can be done in one bath, pro- 
 Poiv- vided aniline colors are used. Some 
 
 de.r is composed of: Common salt 43 per | aniline color is dissolved in the solution 
 cent., alum 19.5, Glauber's salt 5.1, soda \ of an impregnating agent, and the tis- 
 3.5, water-glass 6.6, water 22.3 percent. I sue, previously mordanted, is drawn 
 A mixture composed of 4V pounds of through it. The sizing can also be 
 alum, 10 pounds of common salt, 1 combined with the impregnating agent, 
 pound each of glauber's salt and soda, j The starch is boiled to a paste in the 
 and H pounds of water-glass was given ; mixture, and the goods are drawn 
 to the Cost/ten fire-brigade and tried in I through it in the usual manner. Muslin 
 extinguishing a fire in a distillery. It j curtains, filtering paper, and other loose 
 did excellent service. The following ' tissues can be made fire-proof without 
 mixture can also be recommended : i much trouble, but it is more difficult to 
 Four parts of common salt, 3 of sodium so impregnate heavier and closer goods, 
 bicarbonate, and 1 each of Glauber's j as linen and flannel, so that absolutely 
 
 salt, water-glass, and calcium chloride. 
 This mixture cannot be used for im- 
 pregnating tissues, as from the chloride 
 of calcium are formed sulphates, car- 
 bonates, and silicates which are insol- 
 uble in water. Such a mixture might 
 
 no flame is formed. 
 
 Vienna Fire-extinguishing Porvder 
 consists of a. solution of 4 parts of green 
 vitriol and 16 of ammonium sulphate 
 in 100 of water. It is sold at the rate 
 of about 6 cents per pound, while its 
 
 be used for painting the backs of scenes | actual value is about li cents. A 
 
 for theatres, etc. If the calcium chlo- 
 ride is omitted as for instance in the 
 following mixture: 10 pounds of com- 
 mon salt, 6 pounds of sodium bicar- 
 bonate, and 2 pounds each of water- 
 glass and sodium sulphate it would be 
 possible to dissolve it completely in 
 water, but its effect in making the 
 tissues incombustible would not be 
 sufficient to recommend it. 
 
 Experiments indicate that a mixture 
 of water-glass and ammonium sulphate 
 acts very well. While water-glass forms 
 a protecting coat which excludes the 
 air, the high value of ammonium sul- 
 phate lies in the fact that it becomes 
 decomposed at a high heat, developing 
 vapors, which, like the water-glass, 
 prevent the access of air. But it is 
 found impossible to combine the two 
 agents in a permanent mixture, as the 
 water-glass, which is always alkaline, 
 expels ammonia from the dry am- 
 monium sulphate. 
 
 Sal-ammoniac in the following mixt- 
 ures gives partially satisfactory re- 
 sults : 
 
 I. II 
 
 Per cent. Per cent. 
 
 Common salt . . 30 Sodium sulphate 30 
 Sodium bicarbonate 40 Sodium bicfbonate2fl 
 
 brown precipitate of ferrous hydrate is 
 formed when the fluid which is at first 
 clear is exposed to the air, and for this 
 reason the mixture is not adapted for 
 impregnating fine colored tissues. For 
 all other purposes it does excellent 
 service. 
 
 Fluids for Making Tissues Incom- 
 bustible. I. A solution of sodium 
 tungstate of 28 Twaddle compounded 
 with 3 per cent, of sodium phosphate. 
 
 II. Six parts of alum, 2 of borax, 1 
 of sodium tungstate, 1 of dextrine, dis- 
 solved in soap water. 
 
 III. Five parts of alum, 5 of ammo- 
 nium phosphate, 100 of water. 
 
 IV. Three parts of borax, 2i of 
 Epsom salt, 20 of water. 
 
 V. Eight parts of ammonium sul- 
 phate, 2 of ammonium carbonate, 3 of 
 boracic acid, 2 of borax, 2 of starch, 
 and 100 of water. 
 
 To Make Tissues Incombustible. The 
 Societe d 1 Encouragement of Paris has 
 recently awarded a prize of 2000 francs 
 to J. A. Martin of Paris for the fol- 
 lowing preparations for making tissues 
 fire-proof. The conditions under which 
 the award was offered were as follows: 
 The ingredients constituting the prepa- 
 
 Sal-ammoniac . . 30 Sal-ammoniac 5( I rations must be cheap and easily ap- 
 
124 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 plied, must neither injure the tissues 
 themselves nor their colors, must be 
 neither of a poisonous nor caustic nature, 
 must not change in a very moist nor very 
 dry atmosphere, and finally the impreg- 
 nated tissues and wood must remain 
 incombustible after they have been 
 exposed for one month to a temperature 
 of 100 to 120 F. It was found that 
 Martin's fluids made the tissues and 
 the surface of wood incombustible, that 
 they do not attack the tissues and their 
 colors, and that they remained incom- 
 bustible after having been exposed for 
 several months in a drying chamber to 
 a temperature of 97 F. The experi- 
 ments were made by the society and at 
 the same time in the different Paris 
 theatres. 
 
 I. For all Light Tissues. Ammo- 
 nium sulphate 8 parts, pure ammonium 
 carbonate 2 parts, boracic acid 3 parts, 
 starch 2 parts, water 100 parts ; f part 
 of dextrine (or the same quantity of gel- 
 atine may be substituted for the 2 parts 
 of starch). 
 
 The fluid is heated to 85 F. and the 
 tissues immersed in it until they are 
 thoroughly permeated. They are then 
 slightly wrung and dried sufficiently 
 for ironing. The quantity of the starch 
 or dextrine or gelatine may be changed 
 according as the tissues are to be more 
 or less stiff. 
 
 II. For Painted Decorations and 
 Wood. Sal-ammoniac 15 parts, boracic 
 acid 5 parts, glue 50 parts, gelatine 1J 
 parts, water 100 parts, and sufficient 
 powdered talc to give the mass the 
 necessary consistency. For use it is 
 heated to 120 or 140 F. and applied 
 with a brush. For decorations already 
 painted it suffices to apply it to the 
 back and wooden frames. 
 
 III. For Coarse. Linen, Ropes, Straw, 
 >and Wood. Sal-ammoniac 15 parts, 
 boracic acid 6 parts, borax 3 parts, 
 water 100 parts. The fluid is heated to 
 220 F. and the articles are submerged 
 in it for 15 to 20 minutes, wrung out 
 slightly, and dried. 
 
 Cartridges for Extinguishing Fire. 
 Make the shells of parchment paper or 
 sheet lead, and fill them with 4 parts of 
 a salt obtained by mixing 343 parts of 
 sulphate of alumina and 142 parts of 
 sodium sulphate with 432 of water ; and 
 1 part of sodium sulphide, separated 
 
 from the 4 parts of the salt by a disk of 
 parchment paper. The cartridge is 
 i broken and its entire contents are 
 j poured into the water to be used for ex- 
 tinguishing the fire. 
 
 To Make Paper Incombustible. The 
 
 paper, as it comes from the machine 
 
 ! and before it is brought upon the dry- 
 
 j ing rollers, is drawn through a solution 
 
 I of 8 parts of ammonium sulphate, 3 of 
 
 1 boracic acid, 2 of borax, and 100 of 
 
 water. The fluid should be heated to 
 
 120 F. 
 
 To Make Theatre Scenes, Wood, etc., 
 Incombustible. A mixture recently re- 
 commended for this purpose consists of 
 the following ingredients : Boracic acid 
 5 parts,, sal-ammoniac 15 parts, potash- 
 feldspar 5 parts, gelatine 1.5 parts, 
 paste 50 parts, water 100 parts. It is 
 applied with a brush. Other mixtures 
 of the same ingredients, with a slight 
 change in their proportions, serve for 
 impregnating sail-cloth, straw, ropes, 
 and wood. 
 
 Bucher's Fire-extinguishing Powder, 
 the value of which has been shown at 
 several fires, consists of 30 parts of pow- 
 dered sulphur, 60 of purified saltpetre, 
 and a small quantity of coke and bole. 
 Hand-grenades. These consist of 
 glass vessels of various shapes usually 
 spherical containing various fire-ex- 
 tinguishing liquids. They are hermet- 
 ically sealed to prevent the evaporation 
 of their contents. They are designed, 
 as their name indicates, to be thrown 
 into the fire, and by the breaking of the 
 glass to liberate the fire-extinguishing 
 solution on the burning object. (W.) 
 
 FlREWOKKS. 
 
 Bengal Lights. Besides the combus- 
 tible and coloring components, the fire- 
 works known under this name contain 
 substances which, by yielding oxygen, 
 aid combustion. The principal ingre- 
 dients used for this purpose are char- 
 coal, lampblack, sulphur, stearine, lin- 
 seed oil, colophony, sugar, etc. For 
 coloring the lights the following sub- 
 stances are made use of: Sulphide of 
 antimony, arsenical sulphides, nitrate 
 of barium, nitrate of strontium, sul- 
 phate of potassium, carbonate of sodium, 
 cupric oxide, boracic acid, chlorate of 
 
FIREWORKS. 
 
 125 
 
 potassium, saltpetre, etc. In preparing 
 colored lights the greatest attention 
 should be paid to the absolute purity 
 of the ingredients used, and that they 
 are powdered as finely as possible and 
 very intimately mixed with a spatula 
 after pulverization. Every mixture 
 containing chlorate of potassium must 
 be treated and handled with the utmost 
 care and caution, as such mixtures are 
 liable to spontaneous ignition and even 
 to explosion. For preparing a very 
 fine powder of it, it is best to allow a 
 supersaturated hot solution of chlorate 
 of potassium to become cold, with con- 
 stant stirring, when the salt will be 
 separated in the form of a very fine 
 crystallized flour, which should be 
 dried without exposing it to direct heat. 
 To secure uniformity the ready mixt- 
 ures should be sifted. It is advisable 
 to use dry materials only in manufact- 
 uring them, not to prepare large quan- 
 tities at one time, and to store the 
 mixtures in a dry place in hermetically 
 closed vessels. 
 
 Colored lights are best used by press- 
 ing the mixture into cases (cartridges) 
 of paper twice as long as wide and ig- 
 niting it by means of a quick match. 
 
 Quick Matches are made of 4 parts of 
 saltpetre, 2 of gunpowder, 2 of charcoal, 
 and 1 of sulphur. Quick matches made 
 of this composition never miss fire and 
 are not extinguished by rain or wind. 
 
 White Fire. This excellent light, 
 on account of its brilliant whiteness, is 
 especially adapted for night signalling 
 and also for festive occasions. It is 
 produced by mixing 24 parts of salt- 
 petre, 7 of flowers of sulphur, and 2 of 
 realgar. 
 
 In mixing the saltpetre with the flow- 
 ers of sulphur sulphurous vapors are 
 developed which form moist lumps in 
 the mass. To secure a good ignition 
 and quick combustion of the mass it is 
 necessary to dry it thoroughly in an iron 
 pan with gentle heat, as, if this precau- 
 tion is neglected, it frequently misses 
 fire or ignites and then goes out. The_ 
 mixture is cheaper than gunpowder, as 
 less labor is required in preparing it 
 and very little danger incurred. 
 
 Mohr'8 White Fire, which is very 
 effective and scarcely ever misses fire, 
 is composed of 24 parts of saltpetre, 7 
 of sulphur, and 1 of fine charcoal. The 
 
 charcoal increases the inflammability 
 of the mixture and shortens the length 
 of time during which the light burns, 
 but adds to its intensity. It is not per- 
 missible to use a larger amount of char- 
 coal than that given, as the composition 
 would then approach that of gunpowder. 
 White Fire for Theatres, etc. I. 
 Forty-eight parts of saltpetre, 13.25 of 
 sulphur, 7.25 of sulphide of antimony. 
 
 II. Twelve parts of saltpetre, 4 of 
 sulphur, 1 of sulphide of sodium. 
 
 III. Sixteen parts of saltpetre, 12 of 
 mealed powder, 12 of cast-iron filings, 
 8 of powdered charcoal. 
 
 IV. One part of charcoal, 3 of sul- 
 phur, 7 of saltpetre, 1 of chlorate of 
 potassium, 4 of sulphide of antimony. 
 
 V. Thirty-two parts of saltpetre, 12 
 of sulphur, 8 of sulphide of sodium, 1 
 of gunpowder. 
 
 VI. One hundred to 133 parts of 
 pulverized antimony, 48 to 206 of pul- 
 verized sulphur, 375 to 500 of saltpetre. 
 
 VII. Sixty-four parts of pulverized 
 saltpetre, 21 of pulverized sulphur, 15 
 of gunpowder. 
 
 VIII. One hundred parts of potas- 
 sium carbonate, 10 of sulphide of anti- 
 mony, 15 of boiled linseed oil. 
 
 IX. Eleven parts of chlorate of potas- 
 sium, 4 of nitrate of potassium, 1 of 
 stearine, 1 of carbonate of barium, 5 of 
 milk sugar. 
 
 X. Forty-five parts of sulphide of 
 antimony, 15 of washed flowers of sul- 
 phur, 96 of saltpetre, 15 of stearine. 
 
 The stearine is either grated or cut in 
 shavings and then rubbed with some 
 pulverized saltpetre into as fine a pow- 
 der as possible. The other powdered 
 ingredients are then mixed with it and 
 the mixture passed through a fine 
 sieve. 
 
 XI. Eighteen parts of saltpetre, 3 of 
 sulphide of antimony, 10 of sulphur, 4 
 of burned lime (unslaked). 
 
 Greenish-white Fire. I. Two parts 
 of sulphur, 1 of oxide of zinc, 2 of sul- 
 phide of antimony, 1 of powdered char- 
 coal. 
 
 II. Fifty parts of saltpetre, 25 of sul- 
 phur, 5 of sulphide of antimony, and 
 0.5 of alum. 
 
 Bluish-ivhite Fire. Widen has made 
 experiments in regard to the availabil- 
 ity of sulphide of cadmium for pyro- 
 technic purposes. In the following 
 
126 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 mixture the sulphide of cadmium burns 
 with a brilliant white flame surrounded 
 with , magnificent blue border : Mix 
 20 parts of saltpetre, 4 of sulphide of 
 cadmium, 5 of sulphur, and 1 of pulver- 
 ized charcoal. This mixture may be 
 used for fire-balls. 
 
 Red Fiic. I. Forty parts of nitrate 
 of strontium, 15 of sulphur, 5 of chlo- 
 rate of potassium, and 2 of charcoal. 
 
 II. Fifty parts of chlorate of potas- 
 sium, 50 of nitrate of strontium, 5 of 
 charcoal, and a sufficient quantity of 
 linseed oil to knead the mass together. 
 
 Bed Fire according to Braunschweig- 
 er. Nine parts of nitrate of strontium, 
 3 of shellac, 1.5 of chlorate of potas- 
 sium. The shellac need only be coarsely 
 powdered. The above 3 mixtures for 
 red fire possess the advantage of not 
 emitting injurious vapors, and can 
 therefore be used in rooms, etc. 
 
 Holtz's Red Fire, which was so much 
 used in Berlin during the festivities in 
 celebration of the victories in the 
 French war, contains no chlorate of 
 
 rtassium, but is simply composed of 
 part of shellac and 4 of nitrate of 
 strontium. The absence of chlorate of 
 potassium makes it possible to store 
 such mixtures without any danger, 
 though the light produced is less in- 
 tense and brilliant in color. The mixt- 
 ure is not very inflammable, burns 
 better if slightly moistened, develops 
 but little smoke, and, as it burns very 
 slowly, is without doubt the cheapest 
 material for red lights. A very small 
 addition of chlorate of potassium im- 
 proves the color of the flame very much. 
 Receipts for other Red-fire Mixtures. 
 I. Fifty-six parts of nitrate of strontium, 
 24 of sulphur, 20 of chlorate of potas- 
 sium. 
 
 II. Twenty-three parts of carbonate 
 of strontium, 16 of sulphur, 61 of chlo- 
 rate of potassium. 
 
 III. Mix 40 parts of pulverized ni- 
 trate of strontium, 6 of pulverized chlo- 
 rate of potassium, 13 of washed flowers 
 of sulphur, and 2 of pulverized char- 
 coal. 
 
 Instead of the rather expensive pre- 
 cipitated chalk, salts of strontia, car- 
 bonate of calcium, and the native 
 sulphate of strontium (coelestine), may 
 be used for preparing red fire according 
 to the following receipts : 
 
 I. Mix carefully 3 parts of powdered 
 coelestine, 2 of sulphur, and 5 of chlo- 
 rate of potassium. 
 
 II. Three parts of precipitated chalk, 
 
 2 of sulphur, 6 to 8 of chlorate of po- 
 tassium. 
 
 III. Twelve hundred and fifty parts 
 of sulphate of strontium, 375 of purified 
 sulphur, 166 of chlorate of potassium, 
 and 133 of antimony. 
 
 IV. Seven hundred and fifty parts of 
 carbonate of strontium, 500 of purified 
 sulphur, 1750 of chlorate of potassium. 
 
 V. Rub fine and mix 195 parts of 
 nitrate of strontium, 45 of chlorate of 
 potassium, 45 of washed flowers of sul- 
 phur, 7.5 of powdered charcoal, and 
 22.5 of stearine. 
 
 VI. Eleven parts of chlorate of potas- 
 sium, 4 of nitrate of potassium, 5 of 
 milk sugar, 1 of earth-moss seed, 1 of 
 oxalate of strontium. 
 
 Purple Fire. Powder and mix 61 
 parts of chlorate of potassium, 16 of 
 sulphur, 23 of chalk. 
 
 Rose-red Light. I. Rub fine and mix 
 61 parts of chlorate of potassium, 16 of 
 sulphur, 23 of chloride of potassium. 
 
 II. Pulverize and mix 20 parts of 
 sulphur, 32 of saltpetre, 27 of chlorate 
 of potassium, 20 of chalk, 1 of charcoal. 
 
 Red-orange Fire. Pulverize and mix 
 52 parts of chlorate of potassium, 14 of 
 sulphur, 34 of chalk. 
 
 Dark-violet Fire. Rub fine and mix 
 60 parts of chlorate of potassium, 16 of 
 sulphur, 12 of carbonate of potassium, 
 and 12 of alum. 
 
 Pale-violet Fire. Rub fine and mix 
 54 parts of chlorate of potassium, 14 of 
 sulphur, 16 of carbonate of potassium, 
 and 16 of alum. 
 
 Blue Fire. I. Eighteen parts of 
 chlorate of potassium, 24 of saltpetre, 
 
 14 of sulphur, 6 of cupric oxide. 
 
 II. Four parts of mealed gunpowder, 
 
 3 of sulphur, 3 of powdered zinc, 2 of 
 saltpetre. 
 
 III. The following mixture gives a 
 loudly detonating compound : Two 
 parts of saltpetre, 1 of sulphur, 2 of car- 
 bonate of potassium, 6 of common salt. 
 
 IV. Mix 27 parts of pulverized salt- 
 petre, 28 of triturated chlorate of potas- 
 sium, 15 of pulverized sulphur, 15 of 
 pulverized sulphate of potassium, and 
 
 15 of powdered cupro-aiamoiihim sul- 
 phate. 
 
FIREWORKS. 
 
 127 
 
 The dark -blue color will gain inten- 
 sity by adding potassium sulphate to 
 the mixture. 
 
 V. Seventeen hundred and fifty parts 
 of chlorate of potassium, 500 of siilphur, 
 575 of carbonate of copper, and 375 of 
 burned alum. 
 
 VI. Twenty-one parts of chlorate of 
 potassium, 23 of copper precipitated 
 with chlorate of potassium, 12 of sul- 
 phate of copper, 12 of calomel, 4 of 
 milk sugar, and 3 of stearine. 
 
 Dark-blue Fire. Mix 60 parts of 
 chlorate of potassium, 16 of -sulphur, 12 
 of carbonate of copper, and 12 of alum. 
 
 Pale-blue Fire. I. Mix 61 parts of 
 powdered chlorate of potassium, 16 of 
 pulverized sulphur, and 25 of strongly 
 heated and pulverized alum. 
 
 II. Mix 61 parts of powdered salt- 
 petre, 17i of pulverized sulphur, 20 of 
 powdered anhydrous soda, and 1J of 
 pulverized charcoal. 
 
 Klne Fire with a Bluish-green Flame. 
 Rub fine and mix 12 parts of nitrate of 
 barium, 5 of chlorate of potassium, and 
 4 of sulphur. 
 
 Green Fire. I. Rub fine and mix 
 433 parts of purified sulphur, 2250 of 
 nitrate of barium, 166 of chlorate of 
 potassium, 66 of arsenic, and 100 of 
 charcoal. 
 
 II. Fifty parts of chlorate of potas- 
 sium, 50 of nitrate of barium, 5 of char- 
 coal, and a sufficient quantity of linseed 
 oil to knead the mass. 
 
 Green Fire according to Braitn- 
 schweiger. Three parts of shellac, 9 of 
 nitrate of barium, H of chlorate of 
 potassium. 
 
 Other Receipts for Green Fire. I. 
 Sixteen parts of nitrate of barium, 4 of 
 sulphur, and 16 of chlorate of potas- 
 sium. 
 
 II. Forty-five parts of nitrate of 
 barium, 10 of sulphur, 20 of chlorate of 
 potassium, 2 of calomel, 1 of lampblack. 
 
 III. Mix very carefully 12 parts of 
 nitrate of barium dry as dust, 4 of sul- 
 phur, and 6 of chlorate of potassium. 
 
 IV. Powder and mix 6 parts of nitrate 
 of barium, 1 of sulphur, 2 of chlorate 
 of potassium, and i of charcoal. 
 
 Pale-green Fire. I. Rub fine and 
 mix 60 parts of chlorate of potassium, 
 16 of sulphur, and 24 of carbonate of 
 barium. 
 
 II. Sixty parts of nitrate of barium, 
 
 14 of washed flowers of sulphur, and 40 
 of chlorate of potassium. 
 
 III. Thirty -eight parts of nitrate of 
 barium, 10 of chlorate of potassium, and; 
 8 of charcoal. 
 
 IV. Six parts of nitrate of barium, 1 
 of sulphur, 2 of chlorate of potassium, 
 and i of charcoal. 
 
 Dark-green Fire. One hundred and 
 twenty parts of nitrate of potassium, 60 
 of washed flowers of sulphur, 45 of 
 chlorate of potassium, 37-i of anhydrous 
 carbonate of sodium, 2 of pulverized 
 charcoal, and 22.5 of stearine. 
 
 Yellow Fire. I. Mix carefully 48 
 parts of sodium nitrate, 16 of sulphur, 
 4 of sulphide of antimony, and 1 of 
 charcoal. 
 
 II. Rub as fine as possible and mix 
 20 parts of sodium nitrate, 3 of sulphur, 
 and 1 of sodium sulphide. 
 
 III. Two thousand parts of chlorate 
 of potassium, 500 of purified sulphur, 
 and 750 of sodium carbonate. 
 
 IV. Fifteen hundred and sixty-six 
 parts of saltpetre, 625 of sodium* car- 
 bonate, and 400 of gunpowder. 
 
 V. Six parts of chlorate of potassium, 
 6 of potassium nitrate, 5 of sodium ox- 
 alate, and 3 of shellac. 
 
 VI. Sixty-one parts of chlorate of 
 potassium," 16 of sulphur, and 23 of 
 anhydrous soda. 
 
 VII. One hundred and twenty parts 
 of potassium nitrate, 30 of flowers of 
 sulphur, 45 of chlorate of potassium, 
 37i of anhydrous sodium carbonate, 2 
 of charcoal "powder, 22-V of stearine. 
 
 VIII. Sixty-one parts of saltpetre, 
 17 of sulphur, 20 of soda, and U of 
 charcoal. 
 
 OTHER COLORED FIREWORKS. 
 
 White Stars. Mix 32 parts of pul- 
 verized saltpetre, 12 of pulverized sul- 
 phur, 8 of powdered sodium sulphide, 
 and 1 of gunpowder. 
 
 Red Stars. Rub fine and mix 40 
 parts of nitrate of strontium, 10 of 
 chlorate of potassium, 13 of sulphur, 2 
 of charcoal, 5 of sodium sulphide. 
 
 Green Stars. Thirty parts of chlo- 
 rate of barium, 10 of flowers of sulphur, 
 and 1 of mastic. 
 
 Blue Stars. Rub fine and mix 20 
 parts of chlorate of potassium, 11 of 
 
128 
 
 TECIINO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 sulphur, 14 of cupric oxide, and 1 of 
 mastic. 
 
 B 'I wish-green Stars. I. Rub fine and 
 mix 24 parts of nitrate of barium, 56 of 
 chlorate of potassium, 30 of sulphur, 
 and 1 of mastic. 
 
 II. Twenty parts of nitrate of barium, 
 18 of chlorate of potassium, 10 of sul- 
 phur, 1 of mastic, and 3 of sodium sul- 
 phide. 
 
 Yellowish-green Stars. I. Rub fine 
 and mix 60 parts of chloride of barium, 
 30 of nitrate of barium, 20 of sulphur, 
 and 1 of mastic. 
 
 1 1. Twenty parts of chlorate of potas- 
 sium, 5 of. sulphur, 1 of mastic, and 1 
 of carbonate of barium. 
 
 Yellow tit firs. Rub fine and mix 16 
 parts of sodium nitrate, 5 of sulphur, 2 
 of sodium sulphide, and 1 of charcoal. 
 
 White Candles. Powder and mix 4 
 parts of saltpetre, 1 of sulphur, and 1 
 of sodium sulphide. 
 
 Rl Candles. Rub fine and mix 26 
 parts of nitrate of strontium, 15 of chlo- 
 rate of potassium, 12 of flowers of sul- 
 phur, 2 of charcoal, 2 of sodium sul- 
 phide, and 1 of mastic. 
 
 - Green Candles. Mix 20 parts of 
 chlorate of barium, 30 of nitrate of 
 barium, and 10 of sulphur. 
 
 Blue Candles. Rub fine and mix 18 
 parts of chlorate of potassium, 6 of salt- 
 petre, 10 of sulphur, and 6 of cupric 
 oxide. 
 
 Bluish-green Candles. Rub fine and 
 mix 20 parts of chloride of barium, 30 
 to 42 of nitrate of barium, 40 of chlorate 
 of potassium, 10 to 22 of sulphur and 
 of sodium sulphide. 
 
 Yellow Candles. Rub fine and mix 
 80 parts of sodium nitrate, 7 of sulphur, 
 3 of sodium sulphide, and 2 of mastic. 
 
 Japanese Matches. One part of pow- 
 dered charcoal, la of sulphur, and 3i 
 of saltpetre. 
 
 According to another receipt they 
 consist of 5 parts of lampblack, 11 of 
 sulphur, and 26 to 30 parts of gunpow- 
 der. The mixture is made into a paste 
 with alcohol, formed into small dice, 
 and dried. When dry one of the little 
 squares is fixed into the cleft of a laven- 
 der stalk, lighted on a candle, and held 
 stem downward. After the first blazing 
 oft', a ball of molten lava will form from 
 which the curious and very beautiful 
 eprruscations will soon appear. 
 
 Prof. Bottger says about Japanese 
 matches: The mixture consists either 
 of 3 parts by weight of lampblack, 8 of 
 flowers of sulphur, and 15 of saltpetre 
 (dry as dust) ; or 2 parts by weight of 
 finely sifted lime-wood charcoal, 4 of 
 flowers of sulphur, and 7 of saltpetre 
 (dry as dust). The mode of preparing 
 the matches is as follows : Cut the finest 
 commercial tissue paper into strips 
 about 6i inches long, 1 inch wide on 
 one end, and running into a point at 
 the other. By rolling these small strips 
 of paper tightly together, commencing 
 at the pointed end, and filling the lower 
 part with from 30 to 45 grains of one of 
 the above mixtures, a close imitation of 
 the genuine Japanese matches will be 
 the result. 
 
 Fireworks far Use in Rooms, accord- 
 ing to Perron. Mix 12 parts of salt- 
 petre, 15 of flowers of sulphur, and 30 
 of gunpowder. Then dissolve 2 parts 
 of camphor in 8 of spirit of wine, and 
 4 of gum Arabic in water. Knead the 
 whole into a dough, and form small 
 cornered pieces from it which are dried. 
 When ignited they give a beautiful 
 light. 
 
 Pharaoh's Serpents. This curious 
 chemical toy is prepared as follows: 
 Dissolve mercury, with the aid of heat, 
 in dilute nitric acid, being careful that 
 there shall always be an excess of mer- 
 cury present. When the action of the 
 acid has ceased, decant the solution, 
 and pour into it a solution of sulpho- 
 cyanide of potassium or ammonium, 
 which may be procured at any drug- 
 gist's. Use about equal quantities of 
 the two solutions. A precipitate of 
 sulpho-cyanide of mercury falls out, 
 which should be filtered off, washed, 
 and dried. Then take for every pound 
 of this substance 1 ounce of gum traga- 
 canth, which should be soaked in water. 
 When the gum is completely softened 
 it is transferred to a mortar, and the 
 dried precipitate is gradually rubbed 
 up with it into a homogeneous paste, 
 Avith the addition of a little water. 
 This mass is filled into moulds of coni- 
 cal or other shape, made of silvered 
 paper, and dried. When these are 
 ignited by the application of a match 
 at the conical end they form an enor- 
 mous volume of ash, which proceeds in 
 great coils from the body of the mass, 
 
FOOD AND FOOD PREPARATIONS. 
 
 129 
 
 and which by its serpentine movements, 
 as it is formed, has suggested the name. 
 
 arrowroot flour, 6 of wheat flour, 2 
 of Trinidad chocolate, 2 of Granada 
 chocolate, and i of vanilla. 
 
 Stren-gt/iening food A'noiru as " Paia- 
 
 Serpenti. The above-named experi- moud."' Mix 2 parts ot chocolate, 8 of 
 incut, though curious and interesting, j rice flour, 8 of arrowroot flour, ^ of 
 
 (W.1 
 
 Harmless Substitute 
 
 for Pharaoh's 
 
 is not altogether free from danger be- 
 cause poisonous mercurial fumes are 
 evolved during the combustion of the 
 mass. On this account several substi- 
 tutes have been suggested. One of these, 
 
 finely powdered red samlers wood, and 
 add some Indian arrowroot. 
 
 Sottp Tablets. Mince pounds of 
 perfectly lean beef, make it into a paste 
 with water, then press it out and evapor- 
 
 which is almost as good as the original, I ate the resulting fluid to i pint. Now 
 and is not poisonous, is prepared in the put in a pot (31 pounds of calves' feet, 
 
 and a like quantity, each, of roasted 
 onions, carrots, celery, and water, with 
 the addition of a small quantity of 
 clove?. Boil the whole thoroughly, 
 strain the fluid, and evaporate it to two- 
 thirds of the quantity. Now add tha 
 
 following manner: 
 Take 
 
 of potaesinm .... 2 parts. 
 
 Siltpetro .......... I 
 
 White siiifur ......... 3 parts. 
 
 Pulverize each of the ingredients sepa- 
 rately, and then mix them thoroughly. 
 Make small paper cones of the desired 
 size, and press the mixture into them. 
 When qnite dry they are ready for use. 
 They should be kept away from mois- 
 ture and light. (W.) 
 
 FOOD AND FOOD PREPARATIONS. 
 
 So up Ext ra ct. Vegetabl es a re ge u 1 1 y 
 
 strained fluid to the meat liquor, mix 
 all with a solution of 2 ounces of gum 
 arabic, and evaporate the whole to a 
 thick mass, which is formed into small 
 tablets. 
 
 Stilton Cheese as Prepared in Eng- 
 land. A tiu cylinder open at both 
 ends is required, 6 inches long and 12 
 inches in diameter, with jerforated 
 sides to allow the escape of the whey. 
 Lamb's maw is used as a rennet, and a 
 
 boiled in a steam apparatus for 6 hours, lemon filled with cloves is placed in 
 and then pressed. Ill the resulting J the curd. Nine gallons of fresh milk 
 
 liquor beef and bones are boiled for (> 
 hours longer. The fluid is then pressed 
 out, and, after it has become cold, the 
 fat is skimmed off, a part of which is 
 - J - JJ ~! again, with 30 per 
 
 afterward added 
 cent, of common 
 
 salt. The whole is 
 
 then evaporated to the consistency of 
 syrup. 
 
 Meat Flour. Meat free from fat is 
 covered with 2 to 3 per cent, of salt, 
 
 and the cream from 2 to 3 gallons of 
 milk are used for 1 cheese. The milk 
 is heated to its natural teni]>erature be- 
 fore adding the rennet. When the mass 
 is curdled, it is strained through a cloth, 
 broken short and allowed to remain 
 quiet, wrapped in the cloth, until it is 
 fit to be cut. The tin cylinder is then 
 placed upon a board and filled with 
 alternate layers of curd aud salt aud 
 covered with another board. 
 
 dried first at 120 to 140 F., then com- 
 pletely at 212 F., and ground. The cylinder with the cheese is 
 
 Pi-eased Feed for Hoi-sex. One him- j turned over every 2 or 3 hours for the 
 dred and fifty parts of cut hay, 400 of first day, and 2 or 3 times a day for 
 crushed oats or corn, 50 of crushed the succeeding 3 or 4 days, after which 
 horse beans or pease, and 20 of wheat the cheese is taken out, wrapped in 
 bran or flour, are mixed with 1 of rock- ! a cloth wet with boiling water, and 
 salt. The mixture is then moistened pressed until it is dry. It is turned 
 with water, wrapped in press-cloths, twice a day, and protected from flies 
 and subjected to a high pressure in a and insects. ^Considerable time is re- 
 heated hydraulic press for i hour, quired to make it fit for the table. 
 The mixture is converted into a solid Jloney from Beets and Carrots. This 
 cake of gluten which is dried at 85 F., is generally prepa red from 2 parts -of 
 and divided into suitable pieces. i sugar beets and 1 of carrots. The 
 
 ^li-fiK/tlicniiKj Fo.nl Known as " Die- ' roots are washed clean and scraped. 
 tamta." Mix 14 parts of sugar, 8 of i They are then placed about a foot 
 
130 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT* BOOK. 
 
 deep in a boiler, covered with water, 
 and boiled until soft, being frequently 
 stirred to prevent scorching. The 
 boiled mass is pressed out, and the 
 juice boiled down to the consistency 
 of a syrup, and filled in well-closed 
 earthenware vessels. Its flavor im- 
 proves with age. 
 
 To Prepare Potato Flour for Soups, 
 etc. Cleanse good potatoes, boil, peel, 
 and cut them in slices. Now add to 
 100 parts of potatoes 4 of salt; then 
 dry thoroughly, and grind them to 
 flour, which should be kept in well- 
 closed tin boxes. 
 
 Meat Biscuit. Fresh meat is thor- 
 oughly boiled, and the liquor concen- 
 trated by evaporation until it has ac- 
 quired the consistency of thick syrup. 
 It is then mixed with the best wheat 
 flour and and made into a dough. This 
 is rolled ont, cut into biscuits, and 
 baked in an oven at a moderate heat. 
 Perfectly dry biscuits, easily broken 
 and resembling the finest ship biscuit, 
 are obtained by this process. They 
 contain no fat, and can be used for the ! 
 preparation of soups and puddings. 
 They contain 5 times as much nutri- 
 ment as an equal volume of good 
 fresh meat, and will keep for a Jong 
 time. 
 
 Apparatus and Method for Prepar- 
 ing a Substitute for Coffee. A substi- 
 tute for coffee is prepared in England, 
 which has been patented by Bolanachi, 
 of West Dulwich. The fruit of the 
 carob tree ( Ceratonia sill qua) is roasted 
 and ground, and mixed \vith roasted 
 and ground vetches and coffee. Some 
 chicory, or gentian root, and a lit- 
 tle carbonate of potassium are also 
 added. 
 
 The roasting apparatus (Fig. 12) con- 
 sists of the cylindrical drum A, the in- 
 terior of which is provided with spiral 
 flues a a. The outer cylinder of the 
 drum forms with the inner narrower cyl- 
 inder E, and the spiral flues, a series of 
 divisions which communicate with the 
 interior of the cylinder E through 
 openings in the wall of E. Upon the 
 face of E is placed the ventilating pipe 
 c. This, with the perforated cylin- 
 drical wall of E, forms a chamber for 
 charging the apparatus through the 
 funnel b'. D is a double jacket en- 
 
 closing A ; e e are hot water pipes ar- 
 ranged around A and heated from /. 
 c' c' are openings in the back of the 
 cylindrical wall of A, through which 
 the roasted mass, pressed backward by 
 the turning of the spiral flues a a, falls 
 down upon d. The roasting gases 
 escape through the ventilating pipe e, 
 reaching this from the divisions a' a' 
 through openings in the inner cylinder 
 E. The substances to be roasted are 
 introduced through b' into a' a', where 
 they remain until pushed forward by 
 the turning of the spiral flues, and 
 finally fall through c' c' upon d. 
 
 Fig. 12. 
 
 Bread for Horse Feed. Crushed 
 wheat, rye, oats, barley, and corn, are 
 mixed with cut straw and a little yeast, 
 the mixture is formed into loaves of 
 about 5 pounds each, and baked. 
 
 Pudding Powders ( Vanilla). Five 
 hundred parts of corn starch, 25 of 
 vanilline, and 50 of egg conserve. 
 
 Almond Padding. Five hundred 
 parts of corn staich, 50 of almond 
 flour (with some bitter almonds), 50 of 
 egg conserve, and 12 of vanilline. 
 
 Chocolate Pudding. Five hundred 
 parts of corn starch, 250 of powdered 
 cocoa free from oil, 35 of vanilline, 
 and 150 of egg con serve. 
 
 Manufacture of Artificial Butter. 
 Fresh beef suet is one of the principal 
 materials required in the manufacture 
 of artificial butter. It .should be en- 
 tirely free from blood and particles of 
 meat, and is especially prepared for 
 the manufacture of margarine and 
 oleomargarine bv cutting it up snul 
 rendering, with an addition of water 
 and crystallized soda. To 300 parts of 
 suet take 100 of water and 1 of crys- 
 tallized soda. The mass is heated 
 
FOOD AND FOOD PREPARATIONS. 
 
 131 
 
 over a moderate fire and frequently 
 stirred, until the suet separates as a 
 clear golden-yellow fluid on the top of 
 the water. It is then skimmed off, 
 poured through a sieve, and preserved 
 for use. 
 
 Margarine is an imitation of butter 
 made from beef suet after it has been 
 treated as just described. The suet is 
 melted and allowed to cool, then put in 
 tin moulds lined with linen cloths and 
 submitted to powerful pressure. From 50 
 to 60 per cent, of margarine is obtained, 
 the residue being used in the manu- 
 facture of candles. The lumps of mar- 
 garine should not exceed 2 or 3 pounds 
 each. 
 
 Mege's Process for Oleomargarine. 
 The process, as carried on in American 
 manufactories working under the Mege 
 patents, is substantially as follows : The 
 selected beef fat, which is received a 
 few hours after killing, is first carefully 
 worked free from adhering blood and 
 other impurities by first soaking in 
 warm water and afterwards thoroughly 
 washing in cold water. Only the pieces 
 appearing richest in oil are reserved for 
 butter making, these being cut off by an 
 experienced workman ; the other parts 
 being thrown into tubs that find their 
 way to the tallow factory. 
 
 The selected fat, after another wash- 
 ing, is next introduced into a hashing 
 machine, which is an iron cylinder 
 provided with a number of revolving 
 knife-blades, which cut up and com- 
 pletely disintegrate the fat as it is fed 
 in at one end and forced out through a 
 perforated plate at the other. This proc- 
 ess is important, as thereby the cel- 
 lular tissue is thoroughly broken up, 
 and the oil separates from the material 
 in this condition at a low tempera- 
 ture, and the prolonged application 
 of heat to effect this, as is necessary in 
 the melting of tallow, and which will 
 develop a rank and tallowy flavor, is 
 avoided. 
 
 The disintegrated fat is then melted 
 in caldrons, which are provided with a 
 water jacket and heated by steam. By 
 this means the melting of the fat takes 
 place at a temperature of 122 to 124 F. 
 When the fat is completely melted the 
 contents of the caldrons are permitted 
 to stand until they deposit the floating 
 fragments of membrane, which collect 
 
 on the bottom, forming " scrap." On 
 top there is formed a layer of a white 
 emulsion of oil and water which is re- 
 moved, and the clear, yellow oil is 
 drawn off into suitable vessels and re- 
 moved to the " press " room. Here the 
 melted fat is allowed to remain quietly 
 for about 24 hours, at a temperature of 
 about 85 F., to allow the oil to granu- 
 late by the crystallization of the stearine. 
 
 The granulated mass is next filled 
 into bags, set in moulds, and placed on 
 galvanized plates in a series of presses. 
 When these are filled with the bags they 
 are subjected to a gradually increasing 
 pressure, under which the fluid oil is 
 separated, leaving the hard cakes of 
 stearine in the cloths. 
 
 The resulting oily product is a clear, 
 sweet, yellow oil, substantially similar 
 in composition to the oil of butter, and 
 in this condition it forms an excellent 
 oil for cooking, and is largely consumed 
 for this purpose. 
 
 The next step is the conversion of 
 this oil into butter substitute, or " oleo- 
 margarine " butter. For this purposa/ 
 it is churned with fresh milk for aboui 
 20 minutes, in which operation it ia 
 thoroughly emulsionized or broken up 
 into minute globules. A small quan- 
 tity of annotto is added at this stage, to 
 impart a richer color to the product. 
 The emulsionized oil is then drawn off 
 into tubs containing pounded ice, in 
 which it cools suddenly without granu- 
 lation. Here it remains for several hours, 
 when it is thoroughly " worked " by- 
 hand and the fragments of ice removed. 
 
 To impart the peculiar butter flavor 
 the solidified product must be provided 
 with more of the butyric elements 
 which impart to natural butter its rich 
 odor and flavor, and, for this purpose, 
 it is again churned with fresh milk. 
 After this second churning the product 
 goes through the same series of opera- 
 tions, of working by hand, salting, and 
 packing, as ordinary butter. The fin- 
 ished product, known as " oleomar- 
 garine," made in this way, while not 
 equal in flavor to the best grades of 
 dairy butter, is really preferable, in 
 taste, smell, and wholesomeness, to 
 much of the butter sold in the shops, 
 and is substantially identical in com- 
 position to butter made from cream, 
 (W.) 
 
132 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Composition of the best-known Milk foods for Children. 
 
 A. CONDENSED MILK. 
 
 Water. 
 
 42 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 Albuminoids. 
 
 Milk Sugar. 
 
 Cane Sugar. 
 
 1. American Condensed Milk Co.. 
 N. Y 
 
 2. Anglo-Swiss Co., Switzerland . . 
 3. Austria Condensed Milk Co., near 
 Vienna 
 
 27.72 
 26.14 
 
 24.26 
 2(510 
 25.56 
 25.21 
 31.3 
 24.75 
 
 25.43 
 32.80 
 24.89 
 21.67 
 
 1.81 
 2.05 
 
 216 
 2.12 
 1.87 
 2.03 
 2.56 
 2.17 
 
 1.89 
 3.01 
 2.61 
 2.61 
 
 8.61 
 9.92 
 
 9.63 
 9.46 
 9.80 
 921 
 10 19 
 11.53 
 
 7.01 
 9.8 
 10.64 
 9.15 
 
 9.92 
 11.90 
 
 11.82 
 11.73 
 12.39 
 14.65 
 12.53 
 12.67 
 
 11.34 
 13.13 
 13.08 
 15.86 
 
 51. 
 
 50. 
 
 53. 
 50. 
 10.18 
 13.42 
 43. 
 11.19 
 
 10.11 
 41. 
 13.31 
 13.48 
 
 84 
 80 
 
 13 
 59 
 
 1010 
 35 48 
 42 
 37.69 
 
 42.22 
 25 
 35.47 
 536.23 
 
 4. Gerber & Co., of Thun, Switzerland 
 6. Hooker's Cream Milk Co., London . 
 6. Italian Condensed Milk Co., Milan . 
 7. Keppel Bros., Kempten .... 
 8. H. Nestle, Vevey, Switzerland . . 
 9. New York Condensed Milk Co., 
 NY. . . 
 
 10. Norwegian Condensed Milk Co., 
 Norway 
 
 11. West of England Condensed Milk 
 Co 
 
 12. Waterloo Dairy Co., Waterloo, Bel- 
 gium 
 
 B. INFANTS' FOOD. 
 
 Water. 
 
 42 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 o 
 a 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 < 
 
 Carbo- Hydrates. 
 
 Soluble. 
 
 Insoluble. 
 
 1. Anglo-Swiss Co 
 2. Faust & Schuster, Gottingen . . j 
 
 5 to 6 
 6.29 
 6.43 
 5 to 6 
 5.52 
 
 4.22 
 9.47 
 7.72 
 6.07 
 5.1 
 5.78 
 6.36 
 
 2 to 2.5 
 1.76 
 1.85 
 2 to 3 
 1.35 
 
 1.78 
 1.53 
 1.85 
 1.65 
 2.2 
 1.52 
 1.85 
 
 5 to 6 
 5.03 
 4.75 
 5 to 6 
 4.42 
 
 4.34 
 6.81 
 4.93 
 5.39 
 5.4 
 4.49 
 4.70 
 
 14 to 15 
 10.71 
 10.96 
 17 to 18 
 12.36 
 
 12.86 
 11.29 
 9.21 
 11.0 
 11.8 
 9.96 
 10.96 
 
 54 to 55 
 48.62 
 39.12 
 45 to 50 
 44.32 
 
 47.68 
 35.81 
 42.60 
 420 
 47.0 
 45.0 
 76. 
 
 15 to 16 
 27.59 
 34.7 
 15 to 20 
 31.56 
 
 29.94 
 34.59 
 33.39 
 28.5 
 32 75 
 32.75 
 08 
 
 4 Gerber & Co., Thun 
 
 5. Gieffey, Schiele <fe Co., Rohrbach, 
 Baden 
 
 7. Oettli Montreux Tablet Powder . 4 
 8 II. Nestle, Vevey j 
 
 
 Ordinary artificial butter is made 
 from cotton-seed oil ; better qualities 
 from peanut oil and olive oil. 
 
 I. Ordinary Oleomargarine. Two 
 hundred and fifty parts of suet and 350 
 of good cotton-seed oil are melted and 
 compounded with 5 of palm oil in 
 order to color the mixture. The fat, 
 while still warm, is poured through afine 
 sieve or cloth into a wooden vat and, with 
 constant stirring, allowed to congeal. 
 
 II. Better Quality of Oleomargarine. 
 Two hundred and fifty parts of ordinary 
 uet, 350 of good cotton-seed oil, to 
 
 100 of lard, and 6 of palm oil ; or, 250 
 of ordinary suet, 350 of good cotton- 
 seed oil, 50 to 100 of margarine, and 6 
 of palm oil. 
 
 III. Very Fine Quality of Oleomar- 
 garine. Two hundred and fifty parts 
 of ordinary suet and 350 of good cotton- 
 seed oil are melted together. Into this 
 are stirred 1 part of coarsely powdered 
 cloves, 1 of coarsely powdered orris 
 root, and 12 anchovies cut very fine. 
 The mass is then again gently heated 
 for 2 to 3 hours, and colored with. 
 parts of palm oil. 
 
FREEZING MIXTURES. 
 
 Other Varieties of Oleomargarine. 
 I. Two hundred and fifty parts of 
 suet, 350 of oil of sesame seed, or pea- 
 nut oil, 5 of palm oil, or butter color, 
 and 200 of genuine butter. 
 
 II. Two hundred and fifty parts of 
 suet, 350 of oil of sesame seed, or 
 peanut oil, 200 of margarine, 7 of palm 
 oil, or butter color, 300 of genuine 
 butter. 
 
 III. Two hundred and fifty parts of 
 suet, 350 of oil of sesame seeds, or pea- 
 nut oil, and 200 of margarine are treated 
 with cloves, orris root, and anchovies as 
 given under the first No. III., and then 
 compounded with 7 parts of butter 
 color and 200 of genuine butter. 
 
 IV. Four hundred parts of marga- 
 rine, 100 of genuine butter, and 4 of 
 butter color. 
 
 Vienna Economical Butter. Mar- 
 garine is melted at a very moderate 
 heat, 20 percent, of sour whey is added, 
 and the mixture thoroughly worked 
 together until the whole is formed into 
 a white froth. This is then beaten in a 
 large vat until it congeals, by which 
 the whey is separated and drawn off by 
 a cock. The butter is then salted, if 
 necessary, and pressed into prints. 
 
 A nother Receipt. Two hundred parts 
 of perfectly fresh beef suet, 100 of lard, 
 100 of water, and 1 of crystallized soda 
 are treated in the same manner as the 
 suet for oleomargarine, and to 50 to 60 
 parts of the mixture is added a like 
 quantity of oil of sesame seed, or pea- 
 nut oil. 
 
 Ambrosia, a new nourishing flour 
 food, is composed of the following in- 
 gredients : Four hundred and fifty-five 
 parts of pulverized chestnuts, 305 of 
 potato flour, 125 of lentil flour, a like 
 quantity of bean flour, and 91 parts of 
 powdered vanilla. It is claimed that 
 this flour is very strengthening and can 
 be used as a substitute for coffee and 
 chocolate. 
 
 Hydroleine^ which is much adver- 
 tised in American and English papers, 
 and claimed to be very strengthening, 
 contains, according to the statements of 
 the manufacturer, in 2 teaspoonfuls 
 (120 drops) 30 drops of the purest cod- 
 liver oil, 35 drops of distilled water, 6 
 grains of soluble pancreatine, J grain 
 of soda, \ grain of boracic acid, and fa 
 grain of glycocholic acid. 
 
 FREEZING MIXTURES, 
 
 Freezing Salt. The mixture intro- 
 duced under this name can be espe- 
 cially recommended to confectioners, 
 beer brewers, and consumers of ice in 
 general. It is inexpensive, and a tem- 
 perature of 5 to 22 F. can be pro- 
 duced with it. It is composed of 20 per 
 cent, of calcium chloride, alike quantity 
 of magnesium chloride, 6 per cent, of 
 sodium chloride, 13 per cent, of potas- 
 sium chloride, and 41 per cent, of water. 
 By mixing this salt with equal volumes 
 of snow of 32 F. a freezing mixture of 
 5to 4 F. is obtained. By using equal 
 volumes of snow or pounded ice of 23 
 F. the temperature of the mixture falls 
 to below 22 F. 
 
 Other Mixtures. In the following 
 we give a number of other mixtures, 
 with the degree of temperature ob- 
 tained with them : 
 
 1. Mix 1 part of ammonium nitrate 
 with 1 of water. 5 F. 
 
 2. Mix 4 parts of ammonium nitrate 
 with 3 of water. 13 F. 
 
 3. Mix 3 parts of pounded sal-ammo- 
 niac, 1 of saltpetre, 6 of potassium chlo- 
 rate with 10 of water. 21.2 F. 
 
 4. Mix 5 parts of pounded sal-ammo- 
 niac, 5 of powdered saltpetre, 8 of 
 crystallized Glauber's salt with 16 of 
 water. 5 F. 
 
 5. Mix 10 parts of water, 6 of salt- 
 petre, 6 of sal-ammoniac, 4i of crystal- 
 lized Glauber's salt. 23 F. 
 
 6. Mix 16 parts of crystallized Glau- 
 ber's salt with 5 of crude hydrochloric 
 acid and 5 of cold water. 3.2 F. 
 
 7. Mix 8 parts of crystallized Glau- 
 ber's salt with 5 of hydrochloric acid. 
 -1.4 F. 
 
 8. Mix 1 part of crude hydrochloric 
 acid with 1 of water, and add 3 of crys- 
 tallized Glauber's salt. 5 F. 
 
 9. Mix 4 parts of crystallized Glau- 
 ber's salt and 3 of sulphuric acid of 41 
 per cent. 23 to 17.6 F. 
 
 10. Mix 2 parts of pounded ice or 
 snow with 1 of common salt. 5 F. 
 
 11. Mix 1 part of pounded ice 
 or snow with 1 of common salt. 
 1.4 F. 
 
 12. Mix 3 parts of pounded ice or 
 snow with 4 of crystallized calcium 
 chloride. 13 F. 
 
 13. Mix 2 parts of pounded ice or 
 
134 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 snow with 3 of crystallized calcium 
 chloride. 13 F. 
 
 14. Mix 3 parts of snow and 2 of di- 
 luted sulphuric acid. 32 to 22 F. 
 
 FRUIT AND OTHER SYRUPS. 
 
 American Syrups for Mineral Waters 
 and Lemonades. 
 
 Lemon Syrup. Peel fresh lemons 
 and grate the peel with a sufficient 
 quantity of granulated sugar. Press 
 the peeled lemons, and compound each 
 pint of juice with 1 pint of water and 
 3^ pounds of granulated sugar, in- 
 clusive of that treated with the peel. 
 Heat until the sugar is dissolved and 
 strain. 
 
 Another Receipt. One gallon of 
 white syrup, 25 drops of oil of lemon, 
 and 10 drachms of citric acid. 
 
 Compound the oil with the acid, add 
 the syrup gradually, and mix. 
 
 Another Receipt. Dissolve 6 drachms 
 of tartaric acid and 1 ounce of gum 
 Arabic in a gallon of white syrup, and 
 give it the necessary flavor by adding 
 li drachms of the best oil of lemon, 
 or, instead of this, a sufficient quantity 
 of tincture of lemon peel prepared 
 with eau de Cologne. 
 
 Mulberry Syrup. Six parts of not 
 entirely ripe mulberries and 6 of 
 granulated sugar Boil them with con- 
 stant stirring until the juice shows 30 
 Beaume ; then strain. 
 
 Vanilla Syrup. One ounce of fluid 
 extract of vanilla, i ounce of citric 
 acid, 1 gallon of white syrup. 
 
 Dissolve the acid by rubbing it with 
 a small quantity of the syrup, add the 
 extract, and mix. 
 
 Vanilla Cream Syrup. One ounce 
 of fluid extract of vanilla, 3 pints of 
 white syrup, 1 pint of cream or con- 
 densed milk. May be colored, if de- 
 sired, with carmine. 
 
 Cream Syrup. Half pint of fresh 
 cream, pint of fresh milk, and 1 
 pound of powdered sugar. Mix by 
 shaking, and keep in a cold place. By 
 adding a few grains of sodium bicar- 
 bonate it will keep longer. 
 
 Ginger Syrup. Tincture of ginger 
 2 ounces, white syrup 4 pints. Mix. 
 
 Pineapple Syrup. Cut up pine- 
 apples of good quality, let them stand 
 
 for 24 to 36 hours, and then press out 
 the juice. This is allowed to stand 
 over night; then add for each pound 
 
 1 ounce of eau de Cologne or alcohol 
 free from fusel oil, mix, let it again 
 stand over night, and filter. For each 
 pound of filtered juice take li pounds 
 of sugar, let it boil up once, skim, and 
 put the syrup in bottles, which must 
 be perfectly clean and previously 
 rinsed out with a little eau de Cologne. 
 This syrup, as well as all others pre- 
 pared in the same manner, is strong 
 enough to allow of being mixed with 
 
 2 to 3 parts of white syrup, especially 
 for effervescing waters. 
 
 Strawberry Syrup. Use only very 
 fine and aromatic berries, as otherwise 
 the syrup will not be of excellent 
 quality. Especially avoid rotten fruit. 
 Mash the strawberries, and let the 
 paste stand for 12 to 24 hours, at a tem- 
 perature of 70 to 80 F. Then stir it 
 once more and press. The further 
 treatment is the same as for pineapple 
 syrup. 
 
 Peach, Raspberry, and Currant syr- 
 ups are prepared in the same manner 
 as strawberry syrup. 
 
 Cherry Syrup. A sufficient quantity 
 of cherries are pounded in a porcelain 
 or stone mortar in order to comminute 
 the stones also. Press out the juice, 
 let it stand for 3 days, to allow it to 
 ferment, filter, and then treat in the 
 same manner as strawberry syrup. 
 
 Orange Syrup. Oil of orange 30 
 drops, tartaric acid 4 drachms, white 
 syrup 1 gallon. Rub the oil with the 
 acid, dissolve and mix. 
 
 Sherbet Syrup. Vanilla syrup 3 
 pints, pineapple syrup 1 pint, lemon 
 syrup 1 pint. Mix. 
 
 Nectar Syrup. Five pints of vanilla 
 syrup, 1 of pine-apple syrup, 2 of straw- 
 berry, raspberry, or lemon syrup. 
 
 Coffee Syrup. Ground roasted coffee 
 pound and sufficient boiling water 
 to filter off i gallon of infusion. Dis- 
 solve in it 7 pounds of granulated 
 sugar without using heat. 
 
 Another Receipt. Two ounces of 
 roasted coffee, 2 of white syrup. Mix, 
 and bring the mixture into a filter and 
 add a boiling solution of 12 ounces of 
 sugar and 8 of distilled water. 
 
 Wintergreen Syrup. Twenty-five 
 drops of oil of wintergreen, 5 pints of 
 
FRUIT AND OTHER SYRUPS. 
 
 135 
 
 white syrup, and as much sugar color 
 as is required for coloring. 
 
 Maple Syrup. Four pounds of 
 maple sugar and 2 pints of water. 
 Dissolve like white syrup. 
 
 Chocolate Syrup. Eight ounces of 
 the finest chocolate, 2 pints of water, 4 
 pounds of sugar. Mix the chocolate 
 with the water at a moderate heat, 
 strain, and dissolve the sugar in it. 
 
 Another Receipt. Pound 2 ounces 
 of roasted cocoa shells to a coarse 
 powder, mix this with 2 ounces of 
 white syrup, bring the mixture into 
 a strainer and exhaust it with a boil- 
 ing solution of 12 ounces of sugar and 
 8 of water. Then add 2 drachms of 
 vanilla extract. 
 
 White or Red Wine Syrup. Mix 1 
 pint of red or white wine with 2 pints 
 of white syrup. 
 
 Coffee Cream Syrup. Mix 2 pints 
 of coffee syrup with 1 of cream. 
 
 Solferino Syrup. Mix 1 pint of 
 cognac and 2 pints of white syrup. 
 
 Ambrosia Syrup. Mix 2 pints of 
 raspberry syrup with 2 of vanilla 
 syrup and 4 ounces of white wine. 
 
 Orgeat Syrup. Eight ounces of 
 sweet almonds, 24 of bitter almonds, 3 
 pounds of sugar, 26 ounces of water, 
 and 4 ounces of orange-flower water. 
 Peel the almonds and pound them to a 
 smooth paste with 2 ounces of water 
 and 12 of sugar. Mix the paste gradu- 
 ally with the remaining water, subject 
 it to a strong pressure, and dissolve 
 the remaining sugar at a moderate 
 heat. When cold, add the orange- 
 flower water. 
 
 Milk Piinch Syrup. Mix 1 pint 
 of white syrup, 8 ounces of cognac, 8 
 ounces of Jamaica rum, and 1 pint of 
 cream syrup. 
 
 Champagne Syrup. Two pints of 
 Rhine wine, 2 ounces of cognac, 1 
 ounce of sherry, 3 pounds of granulated 
 sugar. Dissolve the sugar by macer- 
 ating it without the use of heat. 
 
 Sherry Cobbler Syrup. One pint of 
 sherry and H pints of white syrup. Cut 
 one lemon into thin slices, macerate for 
 12 hours, and strain. 
 
 Orange-flower Syrup. One pint of 
 orange-flower water, 28 ounces of gran- 
 ulated sugar. Dissolve without the use 
 of heat. 
 
 Cinnamon Syrup. Thirty drops of 
 
 oil of cinnamon, 60 grains of carbonate 
 of magnesia, 2 pints of water, 56 ounces 
 of granulated sugar. Rub the oil to- 
 gether with the magnesia, next with the 
 water, and filter. Dissolve the sugar 
 in the cold filtrate. 
 
 Ginger Beer Symp. Two pints of 
 ginger syrup, 1 of lemon syrup, 3 grains 
 of tincture of Spanish cress. Mix. 
 
 To make the syrups sparkle add 2 to 
 4 ounces of guui Arabic, dissolved in 
 equal parts of water to each gallon. 
 
 How to Clarity Sugar Syrups. It 
 happens sometimes that the syrup does 
 not turn out sufficiently clear notwith- 
 standing the use of a clear infusion and 
 the best sugar. This is sometimes 
 caused by a small percentage of lime in 
 the sugar, or by the coloring substance 
 which has been added to increase the 
 whiteness of the sugar. To clarify the 
 syrup with white of egg increases the 
 cost of preparing it and contributes 
 nothing to its keeping quality. The 
 best means of clarifying is by the use 
 of a pulp of good filtering paper. The 
 pulp of U drachms of paper will, in 
 most cases, suffice for 1 pint of syrup. It 
 is added to the fluid which is to be made 
 into syrup with the sugar. The paper 
 pulp is prepared by picking the pajer 
 to pieces, placing it in a capacious flask, 
 pouring distilled water over it, shaking 
 it vigorously several times, and collect- 
 ing it upon a strainer. The moist pulp, 
 wh ich snou Id not be squeezed out,is used. 
 
 Other Fruit Syrups. Marsh-mallow 
 Syrup. Peel and cut in pieces 2 
 ounces of marsh-mallow root and pour 
 li pints of hot water over it. Strain 
 when cold, and dissolve in it 4 1 pounds 
 of white sugar. Beat the white of two 
 eggs, pour this into the mass, boil, 
 skim, and strain it. 
 
 Balsam Syrup. Digest in a glass 
 vessel 1 ounce of black Peruvian bal- 
 sam with 1 pound of water. Let it 
 stand for a few hours. Filter the fluid, 
 and dissolve in this by boiling 1 
 pounds of loaf sugar, and strain through 
 a woollen cloth. 
 
 Barberry Syrup. Pound and press 
 ripe barberries, and allow the ob- 
 tained juice to stand until it is clear. 
 Add to U pounds of this juice 3i 
 pounds of white sugar, and boil the 
 mass to a thin syrup, which must 
 be strained through a woollen cloth. 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Blackberry Syrup. Pound ripe black- 
 berries, press the juice out, and allow it 
 to clear. To 1 pound of this juice add 
 3 pounds of white sugar, boil the mass 
 to syrup, and strain it, while hot, 
 through a cloth. 
 
 Lemon Syrup. Press the juice from 
 fresh lemons and let it stand until it 
 has become clear. Then add to 1 
 pound of this juice 3 pounds of white 
 sugar and boil the mass to a thin 
 syrup. 
 
 Camomile Syrup. Pour hot water 
 over 4 ounces of camomile flowers, 
 strain, and in 1 pound of this decoction j 
 dissolve at a moderate heat 3 pounds 
 of white sugar. Strain, while hot, 
 through a woollen cloth. 
 
 Manna Syrup. Dissolve in boiling 
 water part of picked manna, add to 
 the solution 2 parts of white sugar, and 
 allow the mass to boil up once. 
 
 Rhubarb Syrup. Pour 2 pounds of 
 boiling water over 3 ounces of rhubarb 
 root cut in pieces, 6 drachms of cassia 
 bark, and 4 drachms of carbonate of 
 potassium. Let it stand for 24 hours, 
 then strain the fluid. To 1 pound of 
 the strained fluid add 3 pounds of white 
 sugar and boil the mass to a thin 
 syrup. 
 
 Saffron Syrup. Digest for several 
 hours 1 part of saffron with 30 of 
 French white wine. Strain the fluid 
 and dissolve in 20 parts of it 45 of 
 white sugar. Then filter through a 
 cloth. 
 
 Senna Syrup. Place 8 parts of senna 
 leaves and 1 of pounded anise seed in \ 
 a porcelain vessel, and pour 60 of boil- 
 ing water over them. Let the mass 
 stand for a few hours, squeeze it out, 
 and strain the fluid. Then dissolve 
 in 45 parts of it 90 of sugar, boil 
 it up once, and strain through a 
 cloth. 
 
 Seneca Root Syrup. Boil 2 parts of 
 Seneca root, cut in pieces, in 45 of water. 
 To 20 parts of this add 45 of white sugar, 
 and boil it to a thin syrup. 
 
 Licorice Syrup. Boil for i hour at a 
 moderate fire 15 parts of licorice root, 
 cut in pieces, in 90 of water, pour the 
 liquid off, and evaporate it to 56 parts, j 
 Add to this 60 parts of white sugar and | 
 60 of purified honey, and allow it to ; 
 boil up once. 
 
 Violet Syrup. Place 15 parts of fresh 
 
 violets from which the calix has been 
 removed and 60 parts of water in a 
 vessel, and close it hermetically. Let 
 it stand for 12 hours, strain the fluid, 
 add 90 parts of white sugar, and boil to 
 a thin syrup. 
 
 Cinnamon Syrup. Digest in a closed 
 vessel for 2 days 4 parts of cassia bark, 
 with 30 of vinous cinnamon water, and 
 4 of rose-water. Strain it, and in 24 
 parts of the strained fluid dissolve at a 
 moderate heat 45 of white sugar. Then 
 strain through a cloth. 
 
 Eciy Syrup. This, according to Payen, 
 is prepared by beating the yolks and 
 whites of 1 pound of eggs (about 10 
 egg's) with the same volume of water, 
 until the mass is sufficiently fluid to 
 allow of it being strained through a 
 cloth. What has passed through is 
 then beaten to a froth, and If pounds 
 of pulverized sugar are added to it, and 
 then 20 drops of orange-blossom water. 
 In order to make it keep better, it is ad- 
 visable to add -\ ounce of common salt. 
 The mixture is thoroughly stirred for 
 i hour, and when it is quite fluid the 
 scum is removed and the syrup filled 
 into 4 ounce bottles. When used it is 
 mixed with 10 times its volume of 
 water. 
 
 Cochineal Syrup. One and a half 
 drachms of powdered cochineal, l 
 pounds of boiling distilled water, 3i 
 pounds of sugar, and 2\ ounces of recti- 
 fied spirit of wine. The cochineal is 
 boiled in water in a closed vessel for 
 15 minutes, and then strained. To this 
 fluid is added double its weight of sugar, 
 and when this is dissolved, and after 
 the fluid has become cool, fluid 
 drachm of spirit of wine is added to 1 
 ounce of it. This syrup is used for 
 coloring medicines. 
 
 Syrup of Ferrous Nitrate. Take 2 
 parts of iron wire in small pieces, 3 of 
 nitric acid of 1.42 specific gravity, 13 
 of water, and 25 of sugar. Pour 3 parts 
 of the water upon the iron, mix the rest 
 of the water with the acid, and pour 
 this gradually upon the iron until the 
 acid is saturated, which may be recog- 
 nized with the aid of litmus paper. 
 The fluid is then filtered over the sugar, 
 and the syrup, if necessary, is increased 
 to 30 parts by pouring water upon the 
 filtrate. The syrup should be kept in 
 well -closed bottles. 
 
FUEL AND HEATING. FUSIBLE COLORS. 
 
 1*7 
 
 FUEL AND HEATING. HEAT INSULA- 
 TION (NON-OONDUCTIKQ COVER- 
 INGS). 
 
 Necker*s Kindling Compound. Knead 
 melted rosin with sawdust until the 
 mass does not draw threads between 
 the fingers, and then form long pieces 
 of it. 
 
 Economical Fuel. I. Take of soft, 
 moist clay containing no stones, knead 
 it thoroughly with coal dust, form 
 small balls of the mass, and dry them. 
 
 II. Take equal parts of pulverized 
 charcoal or coal, pulverized coke, and 
 moist clay, and form the mass into balls 
 the size of a hen's egg. Some sawdust, 
 finely cut straw, etc., may be added to 
 the mass. 
 
 III. Instead of the clay and coal, cow 
 or horse dung, sawdust, peat, spent 
 tan, or straw, can be used, and mixed 
 with pulverized glass, pitch, tar, oil- 
 cake, etc. The quantity of coal to be 
 added depends on the size of the stove 
 in which the fuel is to be burned; the 
 larger the stove the more coal. 
 
 Fuel from Coal and Rosin. The coal 
 and rosin are comminuted, heated, and 
 mixed with pitch, coal-tar, and fat, by 
 means of a mixing machine, when the 
 mass is pressed into cakes. Coke is 
 used in a similar manner. 
 
 King's Patent Fuel. Peat is mixed 
 with coal-tar, pitch, asphaltum, lime- 
 stone, common salt, and borax, in vary- 
 ing proportions according to the pur- 
 poses for which the fuel is to be used. 
 
 Coal-dust Fuel (Loiseau*s Patent). 
 Dust of bituminous coal, or anthracite, 
 is mixed with about 7 per cent, of plastic 
 clay, and made up into bricks, which 
 are dipped into ordinary benzole con 
 taining rosin in solution. They are 
 then exposed to a current of air, 
 whereby the benzole is evaporated, and 
 a coating of rosin is left on the surface 
 which renders the coal bricks water- 
 tight. 
 
 Blair's Patent Fuel. Slate and coal 
 waste are pulverized and mixed with 
 coal-tar, schist oil, petroleum, or par- 
 affine oil and intimately impregnated 
 with them by using steam. The entire 
 mass is then formed into bricks by sub- 
 jecting it to strong pressure. 
 
 Infusorial Earth for Insulating 
 Steam-pipes, though, one of the best 
 
 non-conductors, is too expensive to be 
 used by itself as an insulating material. 
 But by enveloping the pipes first with 
 a layer of about 1 inch in thickness of 
 ordinary insulating material, such as 
 straw and clay, ete., and coating this 
 with a thin layer of a mixture of in- 
 fusorial earth with soda water-glass, 
 good resnlts will be obtained. In ap- 
 plying the mixture care must be had 
 to lay on a fresh quantity only when 
 the first laver is entirely dry, which 
 may be readily recognized by the \vhit 
 appearance of the coat. To make the 
 1 yer more durable a light coat of oil 
 should finally be given. 
 
 Heat-insulating Coverings for fcteam- 
 pipes, etc. Felt, cork waste, mineral 
 wool, or asbestos pulp, either made into 
 suitable forms and attached to the pipe, 
 or filled into a casing surrounding the 
 pipe, and with or without an air-space 
 about the pipe, are much used for the 
 above purpose. (W.) 
 
 FUSIBLE COLORS USED IN PORCE- 
 LAIN PAINTING. 
 
 Brianchon's Peculiar Process of 
 Painting Glass, Porcelain, etc. Pre- 
 paring the Flux. Melt in a saucer 30 
 parts of rosin, and add, during the 
 melting, 10 parts of baric nitrate of bis- 
 muth in small portions with constant 
 stirring. When the mixture begins to 
 assume a brown color pour 40 parts of 
 oil of lavender into the saucer and stir 
 until the ingredients are intimately 
 combined. Now take the saucer from 
 the sand-bath, allow the contents to 
 cool, and then add 35 parts of oil of 
 lavender, when the flux is ready for 
 use. The salts and oxides of antimony, 
 chromium, cobalt, copper, iron, iridium, 
 palladium, platinum, rhodium, silver, 
 uranium, zinc, etc., are used as color- 
 ing substances ; and gold, if the colors 
 of mother-of-pearl or a prismatic play 
 of colors is to be produced. 
 
 Ador and Abbadie's Zinciferous 
 Metallic Colors. Solution of Zinc Salt. 
 A solution of zinc salt is prepared by 
 mixing 100 parts of zinc salt with a 
 solution of another metallic salt of 
 known specific gravity. The mixture 
 is evaporated to the consistency of 
 dough and heated in a refractory clay 
 
138 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 retort. As soon as the residue assumes 
 the desired color it is time to withdraw 
 the heated product from the furnace. 
 
 This solution of zinc is requisite for 
 producing the zinciferous metallic 
 colors. 
 
 Bronze Color. Add to the zinc solu- 
 tion 3 parts of solution of nitrate of 
 cobalt of 15 to 16 Beaume, 3 of solu- 
 tion of nitrate of nickel, and 1 to 1 of 
 solution of nitrate of copper. 
 
 Chamois Color (Leather Yellow}. Add 
 to solution of zinc salt IV to 2V parts of 
 solution of ferrous sulphate of 28 to 30 
 Beaume. 
 
 Gray Color. Add 2V. parts of solu- 
 tion of blue vitriol to solution of zinc 
 salt. 
 
 Green Color. Add 2 parts of solu- 
 tion of nitrate of cobalt of 20 Beaume 
 to solution of zinc salt. 
 
 Rose-red Color. Add 2 to 3 parts of 
 solution of ferric nitrate of 20 to 25 
 Beaume to solution of zinc salt. 
 
 Yellow Color (Golden). Add 2J 
 parts of solution of nitrate of manganese 
 of 12 to 14 Beaume and a few drops 
 of saturated solution of silver to solu- 
 tion of zinc salt. 
 
 Ye/low Color (Roman). This is ob- 
 tained by heating sulphate of zinc in 
 clay retorts. 
 
 Yellowish-green Color. Add 2 \ parts 
 of solution of nitrate of nickel of 15? to 
 10 Beauine to solution of zinc salt. 
 
 OTHER COLORS. 
 
 Slack (Cobalt and Manganese). Mix 
 2 parts of anhydrous sulphate of cobalt, 
 2 of anhydrous manganous sulphate, 
 and 5 of saltpetre. Heat the mixture 
 to complete decomposition. By boiling 
 the mass a residue of a deep black color 
 is obtained, consisting of cobalt and 
 manganese. One part of this black, 
 dry residue is then triturated with 2i 
 of 'lead glass (for the preparation of 
 this see Iridium, Black). 
 
 Slack (Iridium). Mix 1 part of me- 
 tallic iridium with 1 of decrepitated 
 salt, place the mixture in a porcelain 
 tube, introduce a current of chlorine 
 gas, and bring it to a gentle red heat. 
 The resulting product is extracted from 
 the non-decomposed iridium with water. 
 By evaporating this watery solution of 
 
 the double salt to dryness with sodhiia 
 carbonate and extracting it with water, 
 a black sesquioxide of iridium is ob- 
 tained. One part of this, mixed with 2 
 of lead glass and rubbed fine upon a 
 glass plate, gives a very beautiful black 
 color. 
 
 The lead glass is obtained by fusing 
 together 12 parts of minium, 3 of fine 
 white sand, and 1 of calcined borax. 
 
 Black (Refractory). Triturate upon 
 a glass plate 5 parts of violet-blue (ob- 
 tained from gold-purple), 1 of sesqui- 
 oxide of cobalt, and If of stannic oxide. 
 
 Blue (Azure). Triturate upon a 
 glass plate 2 parts of dark blue (which 
 see), 1 of stannic oxide, and 4 of lead 
 glass (consisting of 4 parts of minium 
 and 1 of sand). 
 
 Blue (Dark). Mix 1 part of chemi- 
 cally pure sesquioxide of cobalt, 1 of 
 stannic oxide, 1 of lead glass (composed 
 of 2 parts of minium. 1 of sand, and 1 
 of calcined borax), and 4 of lead glass 
 (consisting of 2 parts of minium and 1 
 of sand). Fuse these substances for 3 
 hours at a white heat, when the mass is 
 poured out, comminuted, and rubbed 
 fine upon a glass plate. 
 
 Blue (Shading). Mix and fuse in 
 the manner given under dark blue 10 
 parts of sesquioxide of cobalt, 9 of stan- 
 nic oxide, 25 of lead glass (consisting 
 of 2 parts of minium and 1 of sand), and 
 5 parts of lead glass (composed of 2 
 parts of minium, 1 of sand, and 1 of 
 borax). 
 
 Blue ( Turkish). Dissolve 3 parts of 
 chemically pure sesquioxide of cobalt 
 and 1 of stannic oxide in sulphuric acid ; 
 dilute the solution with water and add 
 40 parts of ammonia alum. The mixed 
 solutions are now evaporated to dry- 
 ness, then powdered and exposed in a 
 crucible to a red heat for several hours. 
 The Turkish-blue color is obtained by 
 mixing 1 part of the residue with 2 of 
 bismuth glass, which is produced by 
 fusing together 5 parts of teroxide of 
 bismuth and 1 of crystallized boracic 
 acid. 
 
 Bluish-green. Mix 10 parts of pro- 
 tochloride of mercury and 1 part of 
 chemically pure sesquioxide of cobalt. 
 Triturate the mixture upon a glass 
 plate and then heat it in small portions 
 in a glass tube open on both ends until 
 all mercury has been expelled. A 
 
FUSIBLE COLORS USED IN PORCELAIN PAINTING, ETC. 139 
 
 beautiful bluish-green color is obtained 1 Brown (Sepia). Mix 1 part of anhy- 
 in this manner. This is then placed in j drous ferrous sulphate, 1 of anhydrous 
 a porcelain crucible with a luted cover ! manganous sulphate, 1 of anhydrous 
 and subjected to the strongest heat of a sulphate of zinc, and 5 of saltpetre, and 
 porcelain furnace as long as the burn- | fuse and treat the mixture in the same 
 ing of the porcelain continues. When manner as bistre brown No. I. 
 
 cold the crucible is broken up, the con- 
 tents taken out and washed with water 
 to remove the last traces of the adher- 
 ing potash. A combination of chrome 
 green with sesquioxide of cobalt, having 
 the color of verdigris, is obtained. 
 
 Jj/iush-red. Heat sulphate of iron 
 until it has acquired a loose structure 
 and a bluish-red color. The fusible 
 color is then prepared by mixing and 
 rubbing fine, upon a glass plate, 2 parts 
 of purple-colored ferric oxide and 5 of 
 lead glass (prepared by fusing together 
 5 parts of minium, 2 of sand, and 1 of 
 calcined borax). 
 
 Brown (Bistre}. No. I. Mix 1 part 
 of anhydrous manganous sulphate, 8 of 
 anhydrous sulphate of zinc, 12 of anhy- 
 drous ferrous sulphate, and 26 of salt 
 petre. Heat the mixture in a Hessian 
 crucible until the saltpetre is completely 
 decomposed. The crucible, when cold, 
 is broken up, the residue taken out, 
 and the soluble parts extracted by boil- 
 ing in water. The brown powder ob- 
 tained is then mixed with 2i times its 
 weight of lead glass, prepared as above 
 indicated. 
 
 No. II. Mix 1 part of anhydrous 
 manganous sulphate, 4 of anhydrous 
 ferrous sulphate, 4 of anhydrous sul- 
 phate of zinc, and 12 of saltpetre. 
 
 This color is prepared in the same 
 
 Brownish-red. Heat, sulphate of 
 iron until the sulphuric acid has been 
 entirely expelled and a sample taken 
 from the crucible shows a dark red 
 color. The ferric oxide is freed from 
 undecomposed salt by washing with 
 water and then dried. To produce the 
 fusible color 2 parts of this ferric oxide 
 are mixed with 24 of lead glass, prepared 
 as above, and rubbed fine upon a glass 
 plate. 
 
 Chamois. Mix and rub fine 1 part 
 of ferric hydrate, produced by precip- 
 itating it with aqua ammonia from solu- 
 tion of ferric oxide, and 4 parts of lead 
 glass, prepared as above. This color is 
 laid on very thin and produces a yel- 
 lowish-brown ground. 
 
 Flesh Color. Mix and rub fine 1 
 part of red ferric oxide, 1 of dark yellow 
 color, No. II. (which see), and 10 of 
 lead glass, prepared as above. 
 
 Gray (Chrome). Mix 1 part of ferric 
 hydrate with 2 of protochromate of 
 mercury. Triturate the mixture upon 
 a glass plate and heat it, by placing the 
 saucer containing it into an open muflie, 
 until all the mercury is expelled. The 
 dark red combination of sesquioxide of 
 chromium and ferric hydrate is mixed 
 with 3 times its weight of above-de- 
 scribed lead glass. The mixture is then 
 rubbed fine upon a glass plate. 
 
 manner as No. I. 
 
 Brown (Dark). Mix 1 part of anhy- 
 drous sulphate of cobalt, 4 of anhydrous ~^~, ~- ~. ,*, v^v,**~ ^c.^ 
 
 sulphate of zinc, 4 of anhydrous ferrous glass, and rub the mixture fine upon a 
 sulphate, and 10 of saltpetre, and treat j glass plate. 
 
 Gray (Iridium). Mix 1 part of ses- 
 quioxide of iridium, 4 parts of oxide of 
 zinc, and 22 of above-described lead 
 
 in the same manner as bistre brown 
 No. I. 
 
 Brown (Pale). No. I. Mix 6 parts 
 of anhydrous ferrous sulphate, 4 of an- 
 hydrous sulphate of zinc, and 13 of 
 saltpetre, and treat in the same manner 
 as bistre brown No. I. 
 
 No. II. Mix 2 parts of anhydrous 
 ferrous sulphate, 2 of anhydrous sul- 
 phate of zinc, and 5 of saltpetre. Fuse 
 and treat the mixture in the same man- 
 ner as given for bistre brown No. I. 
 Then mix 2 parts of the residue with 5 
 of lead glass, prepared as above. 
 
 Green (Dark). Heat protochromate 
 of mercury in a porcelain tube, open on 
 both ends, until all the mercury has 
 been expelled, and mix 1 part of the 
 resulting sesquioxide of chromium with 
 3 parts of above-described lead glass. 
 
 Green (Grass) is obtained by mixing 
 1 part of bluish-green with 6 of lemon 
 color (which see). 
 
 Green (Shading). Mix 8 parts of pro- 
 tochromate of mercury with 1 of sesqui- 
 oxide of cobalt. Place the mixture in 
 a flat saucer and subject it to the full 
 heat of a porcelain furnace. Mix the 
 
140 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 residue with double its weight of lead 
 glass, prepared as above described. The 
 result will be a beautiful black-green 
 color. 
 
 Lustre Colors. Gold. Melt in a sau- 
 cer in a sand-bath 30 parts of colophony, 
 and add 10 parts of uranic nitrate and, 
 with constant stirring, 35 to 40 parts of 
 oil of lavender. When the mixture is 
 entirely homogeneous take it from the 
 sand-bath and add 35 to 40 parts more 
 of oil of lavender, 
 
 By intimately mixing the mass thus 
 obtained with a like quantity of bis- 
 muth glass, prepared by fusing together 
 4 parts of oxide of bismuth and 4 of 
 crystallized boracic acid, a brilliant 
 yellow color will be the result. 
 
 Orange-red. Melt in a saucer 15 
 parts of colophony, and mix with it 
 gradually and with constant stirring 15 
 parts of ferric nitrate and 18 of oil of 
 lavender. When the mixture is homo- 
 geneous take it from the fire, and, when 
 cool, add 20 parts more of oil of laven- 
 der. By mixing J part of this mass 
 with of bismuth glass (see Gold), 
 orange, red, and all intermediate colors 
 can be obtained according to the quan- 
 tity of bismuth glass used. 
 
 Orange. Mix and rub fine upon a 
 marble slab 2 parts of uranic oxide, 1 
 of chloride of silver, and 3 of bismuth 
 (see Gold). 
 
 Prismatic Colors. Rub upon a plate 
 cyanide of gold with mercuric cyanide, 
 so that a paste is formed. This, after 
 drying, is triturated with oil of laven- 
 der. The auriferous combination is 
 mixed with 1, 2, 3 to 10 times its quan- 
 tity of bismuth glass (see Gold). Laid 
 on biscuit and coating it with solution 
 of uranium, light and dark iridescent 
 colors are obtained. The colors may 
 all be mixed together or applied one on 
 top of the other. Mother-of-pearl colors 
 can be easier produced upon glass than 
 upon porcelain. For these it is neces- 
 sary to mix the bismuth glass with lead 
 glass, and frequently chloride of anti- 
 mony mixed with rosin must be added. 
 
 Purple (Dark). Dilute a clear solu- 
 tion of li drachms of gold in aqua regia 
 with 20 pounds of distilled water, and 
 add, with constant stirring, U drachms 
 of solution of protochloride of tin. The 
 fluid will assume a deep brown-red 
 color, and precipitation will take place 
 
 by adding a few drops of sulphuric 
 
 acid. The fluid is now poured off, the 
 
 precipitate washed 5 or 6 times with 
 
 water, and is then collected upon a 
 
 filter, where it is allowed to drain off, 
 
 ! and then, while still moist, is placed 
 
 ' with a silver spatula upon a glass plate, 
 
 I where it is intimately mixed with 3 
 
 j drachms of very fine lead glass, obtained 
 
 i as above. The mixture is dried, then 
 
 mixed with li drachms of carbonate of 
 
 j silver, and rubbed fine. About -i ounce 
 
 ! of dark purple will be obtained in this 
 
 manner. 
 
 Purple (Pale}. Dissolve li drachms 
 of shavings of tin in boiling aqua reyia, 
 and concentrate the solution in a water- 
 bath until it becomes solid. In this 
 manner chloride of tin is obtained con- 
 taining hydrochloric acid in excess, 
 w r hich is dissolved with a little distilled 
 water and mixed with \ drachm of pro- 
 tochloride of tin of 1.7 specific gravity. 
 The solution of tin is then gradually 
 : mixed in a large beaker glass with 2 
 gallons of water, but the solution should 
 i contain a sufficient quantity of acid to 
 prevent a separation of stannic oxide. 
 A solution of 8 grains of gold in aqua 
 regia, which has been previously evap- 
 orated nearly to dryness in a water- 
 bath, then diluted with water, and 
 filtered in a dark room, is now added 
 to the solution of tin, which has also 
 I been diluted with water. 
 
 The fluid will assume a deep red 
 color without a precipitate being formed. 
 The precipitate is immediately formed 
 by adding If ounces of aqua ammonia. 
 Sometimes it happens that the precip- 
 itate does not entirely settle after adding 
 the aqua ammonia ; in this case the ad- 
 i dition of a few drops of concentrated 
 i sulphuric acid will suffice to bring about 
 1 the desired result. The fluid must then 
 be poured off' as quickly as possible and 
 1 the precipitate washed 5 or 6 times with 
 fresh water. It is then collected upon 
 a filter, allowed to drain off thoroughly, 
 and then, while still moist, placed with 
 a silver spatula upon an opaque glass 
 plate with 6 drachms of lead glass, pre- 
 viously rubbed fine. The mixture is 
 dried upon the glass plate, upon which 
 the gold-purple has been rubbed with 
 the lead glass, by placing it in a room 
 ; free from dust, and, when dry, is mixed 
 with 50 grains of carbonate of silver. 
 
GLASS. COMPOSITION OF, ETC. 
 
 141 
 
 By this process a little over 1 ounce of 
 pale purple should be obtained with 
 the use of 8 grains of gold. 
 
 Pa rple (Rose-red}. Dissolve 16 grains 
 of gold in aqua regia and compound 
 the solution with a solution of If ounces 
 of alum in 5 gallons of water. Add to 
 this, with constant stirring, i fluid 
 drachm of solution of protochloride of 
 tin of 1.7 specific gravity, and then 
 pour aqua ammonia into the fluid as 
 long as a precipitate of alumina is 
 formed. When the precipitate has set- 
 tled pour the fluid off, replace it with 
 10 times the quantity ot water, wash the 
 precipitate with this, and then dry it at 
 a moderate heat. About i ounce of 
 dry precipitate will be obtained, which 
 is mixed with 40 grains of carbonate of 
 silver and 2 ounces of lead glass, pre- 
 pared in the same manner as given under 
 pale purple, and the mixture triturated 
 upon a glass plate. 
 
 The gold colors here mentioned can 
 only be fused upon porcelain glaze, as, 
 when subjected to a higher tempera- 
 ture, the gold and silver are separated 
 in metallic form and assume a dirty 
 brown and leather-like appearance. 
 
 Yellow (Dark). I. Mix intimately 
 48 parts of minium, 16 of sand, 18 of 
 anhydrous borax, 16 of potassium anti- 
 moniate, 4 of oxide of zinc, and 5 of 
 ferric oxide. Fuse the mixture in a 
 Hessian crucible until the mass is en- 
 tirely homogeneous, when it must imme- 
 diately be removed or the color will 
 become dirty yellow. 
 
 No. II. consists of 20 parts of min- 
 ium, 2i of w r hite sand, 4i of potassium 
 antimoniate, 1 of ferric oxide, and 1 of 
 oxide of zinc. The ingredients are 
 fused in a Hessian crucible until the 
 mass is entirely homogeneous. 
 
 Yellow (Lemon Color). Mix inti- 
 mately 8 parts of potassium antimoniate, 
 2i of oxide of zinc, and 36 of lead glass. 
 Heat the mixture in a porcelain cruci- 
 ble until it forms a flux. It is then 
 taken out and, when cold, rubbed fine 
 upon a glass plate. The mass must not 
 be fused longer than stated or the color 
 will become decomposed. 
 
 Yellow (Pale). First prepare a lead 
 glass by fusing together 8 parts of min- 
 ium and 1 of white sand. Pulverize 
 and dry this. The color is then pre- 
 pared by intimately mixing together 4 
 
 parts of potassium antimoniate, 1 of 
 stannic oxide, and 36 of the above lead 
 glass. The mixture is fused in a Hes- 
 sian crucible and allowed to cool, when 
 it is comminuted and rubbed fine. 
 
 Yelloiv ( Uranium). Mix 1 part of 
 uranic oxide and 4 parts of lead glass, 
 prepared by fusing together 8 parts of 
 minium and lofwhitesand. Thiscoloris 
 only mixed and triturated upon a stone. 
 
 Yellowish-red. Heat anhydrous sul- 
 phate of iron by placing the saucer con- 
 taining it in an open muffle furnace. 
 Stir it constantly until the greatest part 
 of the sulphuric acid has escaped. Then 
 take it out and, when cool, wash the 
 ferric oxide with water to remove all 
 traces of undecomposed salt, and then 
 dry it. To produce a fusible color mix 
 7 parts of the yellowish-red ferric oxide 
 and L'4 of lead glass, produced by fusing 
 together 12 parts of minium and 1 of 
 calcined borax, and triturate the mixt- 
 ure upon a glass plate. 
 
 Yellow for Figures and Landscapes. 
 Add to the dark yellow colors I. and 
 II. some Naples yellow, which is pre- 
 
 rred by placing 1 part of tartar emetic, 
 of nitrate of lead, and 4 of decrep- 
 itated common salt in a Hessian cruci- 
 ble and subjecting the mixture to a con- 
 tinued strong heat. The residue is com- 
 minuted, washed, dried, and rubbed fine. 
 
 Yellow Jor La ?? dscajjes. Mix 8 parts 
 of Naples yellow and 6 of lead glass, 
 prepared by fusing together 2 parts of 
 minium, 1 of white sand, 1 of calcined 
 borax. 
 
 }\'/u'te (Covering). Mix and fuse in 
 a porcelain crucible 1 part of minium, 
 1 of white sand, and 1 of crystal li zed 
 boracic acid. This color is used for 
 marking the lightest places of the de- 
 sign which cannot be produced by leav- 
 ing bare the porcelain, and also for 
 mixing but only in small quantities 
 with yellow and green colors to make 
 them cover better. 
 
 GLASS. COMPOSITION OF THE VARI- 
 OUS KINDS OF, COLORS FOR, AND 
 PROCESSES FOR ENAMELLING, EN- 
 GRAVING, GILDING, SILVERING, 
 PULVERIZING, FILING, BENDING, 
 ETC. 
 
 Dark Green Bottle Glass is. prepared 
 from 20 parts of Glauber's salt, 18 of 
 
142 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 soap ashes, 90 parts of lixiviated 
 wood ashes, 39 parts of glass flown into 
 the hearth, 179 of broken glass, and 45 
 of basalt. 
 
 Jdhkel's Glass for Champagne Bot- 
 tles consists of 100 parts of feldspar, 10 
 of lime, 74 of common salt, and 63 of 
 iron slag. 
 
 Elli's Cryolite Glass. A composition 
 of 1 part of cryolite and 2 to 4 parts of 
 pure quartz furnishes a beautiful glass, 
 which can be easily shaped and 
 ground. 
 
 Bohemian Crystal Glass (free from 
 lead) is composed of 100 parts of sand, 
 30 of potash, and 18 of lime. 
 
 Plate Glass of the Mirror Manufac- 
 tory at A ix la Chapel le consists of 100 
 parts of sand, 38 of sulphate, 38 of car- 
 bonate of lime, 2.5 of charcoal, and 0.5 
 of arsenious acid. 
 
 French Mirror Glass. One hundred 
 parts of sand, 24 of chalk, 33 of soda 
 or 38 of sulphate, 2.5 to 2.75 of pul- 
 verized coke, and 1 to 2 of arsenious 
 acid. 
 
 Belgian Window Glass. One hun- 
 dred parts of sand, 41 of calcareous 
 spar, 34 of sulphate, 1.5 of pulverized 
 coke, and 0.5 of arsenious acid. 
 
 Bohemian Window Glass. One hun- 
 dred parts of sand, 30 of chalk, 24 of 
 soda, and 1 of arsenious acid. 
 
 English Window Glass. One hun- 
 dred parts of sand, 38 of limestone, 28 
 of sulphate, 1.3 of pulverized coke, and 
 1 of arsenious acid. 
 
 French Window Glass. One hun- 
 dred parts of sand, 36 of sulphate, 35 
 of chalk, 1.75 of pulverized coke or 5 
 of charcoal, and 1.25 of arsenious acid. 
 
 Prussian Window Glass. One hun- 
 dred parts of sand, 37 of calcareous 
 spar, 34 of sulphate, 5 of soda, 2.25 of 
 pulverized coke, and 1 of arsenious 
 acid. 
 
 Stein's Receipts for Compositions of 
 Glass as actually used in Various Glass 
 Works. Potash Crystal Glass. I. One 
 hundred and ten pounds of quartz or 
 very fine and pure white sand, 55 pounds 
 of potash, 4,Jr ounces of arsenious acid, 
 and 16V pounds of slaked lime. 
 
 II. One hundred and ten pounds of 
 quartz, 66 pounds of potash, 22 pounds 
 of slaked lime, 8 ounces of arsenious 
 acid, and 1 pound of saltpetre. 
 
 III, One hundred and ten pounds of 
 
 quartz, 55 pounds of potash, 22 pounds 
 of chalk, 14 pounds of saltpetre, 14 
 pounds of arsenious acid, and f ounce 
 of pyrolusite. 
 
 IV. One hundred and ten pounds of 
 quartz, 374 pounds of purified potash, 
 164 pounds of slaked lime, and 5| 
 ounces of pyrolusite. 
 
 Bohemian Mirror Glass. I. One hun- 
 dred and ten pounds of quartz, 734 
 pounds of purified potash, 364 pounds 
 of marble, 74 pounds of saltpetre, If 
 pounds of arsenious acid, 34 ounces of 
 pyrolusite, and } ounce of smalt. 
 
 II. One hundred and ten pounds of 
 quartz, 77 pounds of purified potash, 22 
 pounds of slaked lime, 74 pounds of 
 saltpetre, If pounds of arsenious acid, 
 34 ounces of potash, and J ounce of 
 smalt. 
 
 Bohemian Chalk Glass (Ground 
 Glass, White Concave Glass). I. One 
 hundred and ten pounds of white sand, 
 714 pounds of potash, 64 pounds of 
 burned lime, 1 pound of arsenious acid, 
 and of ounces of pyrolusite. 
 
 II. One hundred and ten pounds of 
 white sand, 55 pounds of potash, 24J 
 pounds of chalk, IS pounds each of 
 saltpetre and pyrolusite, and 44 ounces 
 of arsenious acid. 
 
 To make the glass produced by these 
 compositions easily fusible, add to each 
 composition 2J pounds of minium and 
 54 pounds of borax. 
 
 Bohemian Window Glass. One hun- 
 dred and ten pounds of white sand, 46J 
 pounds of potash, and 19i pounds of 
 limestone. 
 
 French Mirror Glass. One hundred 
 and ten pounds of white sand, 364 
 pounds of soda, 15| pounds of slaked 
 lime, and 2J ounces of pyrolusite. 
 
 French Soda Glass. I. One hundred 
 and ten pounds of white sand, 68| 
 pounds of soda, 8i pounds of carbonate 
 of lime, 44 ounces of pyrolusite, 34 
 ounces of arsenious acid. 
 
 II. One hundred and ten pounds of 
 white sand, 374 pounds of soda, 16 
 pounds of carbonate of lime, and 44 
 ounces of pyrolusite. 
 
 III. One hundred and ten pounds of 
 white sand, 33 pounds of soda, 384 
 pounds of chalk, 44 ounces of pyrolusite, 
 and 34 ounces of arsenious acid. 
 
 IV. One hundred and ten pounds of 
 white sand, 384 pounds of soda, 44 
 
GLASS. COMPOSITION OF, ETC. 
 
 143 
 
 pounds of chalk, 4} ounces of pyrolu- 
 site, and 3} ounces of arsenious acid. 
 
 Composition No. I. gives a soft glass, 
 No. II. a hard, and No. III. a very 
 hard glass. 
 
 White Soda Windoiv Glass. I. One 
 hundred and ten pounds of sand, 48} 
 pounds of Glauber's salt, 3} pounds of 
 pulverized wood charcoal, 4} pounds 
 of burned lime. 
 
 II. One hundred and ten pounds of 
 sand, 55 pounds of Glauber's sait, 3} 
 pounds of pulverized charcoal, and 22 
 pounds of limestone. 
 
 III. One hundred and ten pounds of 
 sand, 49i pounds of Glauber's salt, 3i 
 pounds of pulverized coke, and 20 
 pounds of limestone. 
 
 IV. One hundred and ten pounds of 
 sand, 35i pounds of Glauber's salt, 2i 
 pounds of coal, and 49} pounds of lime- 
 stone. 
 
 V. One hundred and ten pounds of 
 sand, 33 pounds each of Glauber's salt 
 and limestone, and 3} pounds of char- 
 coal. 
 
 VI. One hundred and ten pounds of 
 sand, 38i pounds of Glauber's salt, 6} 
 pounds of soda, 33 pounds of limestone, 
 and 3} pounds of charcoal. 
 
 Compositions Nos. V. and VI. furnish 
 window glass of established excellence. 
 
 Semi-white Potash Window Glass. 
 I. One hundred and ten pounds of sand, 
 126} pounds of lixiviated wood ashes, 
 36} pounds of potash, and 24i pounds 
 of limestone. 
 
 II. One hundred and ten pounds of 
 sand, 132 pounds of lixiviated wood 
 ashes, 38} pounds of potash, 19} pounds 
 of limestone, and 4} ounces of pyro- 
 lusite. 
 
 III. One hundred and ten pounds of 
 soda, 33 pounds of potash, 24i pounds 
 of limestone, and 16i pounds of com- 
 mon salt. 
 
 All the compositions for window 
 
 glass given above may also be used for 
 ollow glassware. 
 
 Bottle Glass. I. One hundred and ten 
 pounds of sand, 22 pounds of Glauber's 
 salt, 2i pounds of coal, 49} pounds of 
 basalt, and 22 pounds of carbonate of 
 soda. 
 
 II. One hundred and ten pounds of 
 sand, 176 pounds of wood ashes, and 55 
 pounds of basalt. 
 
 III. One hundred and ten pounds of '. 
 
 sand, 27} pounds of Glauber's salt, 3 
 pounds of coal, 37} pounds of limestone, 
 and 4} pounds of basalt. 
 
 The last two compositions furnish a 
 good glass for champagne bottles. 
 
 Lead Crystal Glass. I. One hun- 
 dred and ten pounds of quartz, 73i 
 pounds of minium, and 36} pounds of 
 purified potash. 
 
 II. One hundred and ten pounds Af 
 sand, 66 pounds of minium, and 22 
 pounds of potash. 
 
 III. One hundred and ten pounds of 
 sand, 49} pounds of minium, 39} pounds 
 of purified potash, and 1 pound of 
 arsenious acid. 
 
 IV. One hundred and ten pounds of 
 sand, 77 pounds of minium, 28} pounds 
 of purified potash, 5| pounds of salt- 
 petre, and 4} pounds of borax. 
 
 V. One hundred and ten pounds of 
 sand, 46i pounds of minium, 36 
 pounds of purified potash, 18i pounds 
 of saltpetre, and } pound of pyrolusite. 
 
 It is advisable to add broken glass to 
 all the above compositions. 
 
 Crown Glass (according to Bontemps). 
 I. One hundred and ten pounds of 
 white sand, 45! pounds of purified soda, 
 24J pounds of carbonate of lime, and 1| 
 pounds of arsenious acid. 
 
 II. One hundred and ten pounds of 
 white sand, 33 pounds of potash, 18 
 pounds of soda, 13f pounds of chalk, 
 and 13J ounces of arsenious acid. 
 
 Crown Glass (according to Gui- 
 naud). One hundred and ten pounds 
 of white sand, 44 pounds of American 
 potash, 5} pounds of minium, 5} pounds 
 of borax, and 4i ounces of pyrolusite. 
 
 Flint Glass. One hundred and ten 
 pounds each of quartz and minium 
 and 33 pounds of purified soda. 
 
 Flint Glass (according to Bontemp). 
 I. Two hundred and eighty-seven and 
 one-quarter pounds of sand, a like quan- 
 tity of minium, 66 pounds of potash, 
 and 20 pounds of borax. 
 
 II. Forty-seven and three-quarter 
 pounds of sand, a like quantity of oxide 
 of lead, 11 pounds of carbonate of 
 potash, and 3i pounds of saltpetre. 
 
 Compositions for Strass (acccording 
 to Donault-Wi eland). I. Three hun- 
 dred parts of rock crystal, 470 of min- 
 ium, 163 of potash purified with alco- 
 hol, 22 of borax, aad 1 of arsetuoujs 
 acid. 
 
144 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 II. Three hundred parts of rock 
 crystal, 462 of minium, 163 of potash 
 purified with alcohol, 18 of borax, and 
 i of arsenious acid. 
 
 III. Three hundred parts of the 
 whitest sand, 514 of pure white lead, 
 96 of potash purified with alcohol, 27 
 of borax, and 1 of arsenious acid. 
 
 IV. One hundred parts of roek crys- 
 tal, a like quantity of minium, 66 of 
 borax, 22 of saltpetre, and 5 of arseni- 
 ous acid. 
 
 Compositions for Opaque Glass. 
 Tin Enamel. The percentage of tin in 
 this enamel varies very much. To 
 obtain the oxide of tin, either equal 
 parts of lead and tin as a maximum 
 are fused together, or a smaller quan- 
 tity of tin, as low as 15 parts, to 100 of 
 lead. Two hundred parts of this mixt- 
 ure of oxides are combined with 100 
 parts of sand and 80 of pure potash to 
 form the enamel. 
 
 Arsenical Enamel. I. One hundred 
 parts of sand, 16 of potash, 6 of lime, 
 130 of minium, of saltpetre, and 10 of 
 white arsenic. 
 
 II. One hundred and ten pounds of 
 sand, 73i pounds of minium, 36 V pounds 
 of potash, 5i to 10 pounds of saltpetre, 
 li to 4| ounces of pyrolusite, 4V pounds 
 of white arsenic, and H pounds of 
 teroxide of antimony. 
 
 III. One hundred parts of sand, 200 
 of minium, 60 of potash, and 30 of 
 white arsenic. 
 
 Bone Glass. Take an ordinary com- 
 position for potash, soda, or lead glass, 
 and add, according to the degree of 
 transparency desired, from 10 to 20 per 
 cent, of bone-ash. Besides bone-ash, 
 oxide of tin or arsenious acid is added 
 in some glass works. We give a fe\v 
 receipts : 
 
 I. One hundred parts of sand, 40 of 
 potash, 25 to 30 of oxide of tin, 12 of 
 air-slaked lime, 10 of minium, and 2 of 
 arsenious acid. 
 
 II. One hundred parts of sand, 45 of 
 calcined soda^ 16 of air-slaked lime, 6 of 
 bone-ash., and 3 of arsenious acid. 
 
 III. One hundred parts of sand, 
 23 of potash, 15 of soda, 12 of borax, 
 30 of bone-ash, and 1 of arsenious 
 acid. 
 
 Opal Glass. This differs from bone- 
 glass only in containing a smaller per 
 centage of bone-ash, of which 2 to 4 per 
 
 cent, only are added to a suitable white- 
 glass composition. 
 
 Alabaster Glass. One hundred parts 
 of sand, 43 of potash, 4A of saltpetre, 6 
 of bone-ash. This glass must be fused 
 at as low a temperature as possible. 
 
 Compositions for Colored Glass, 
 The basis of these compositions is <ren- 
 erally lead crystal, or potash crystal- 
 glass, to which a small quantity of 
 oxide of lead is sometimes added ; al- 
 though soda-glass is also frequently 
 colored. But the composition depends 
 always on the purpose for which the 
 colored glass is to be used. As colored 
 glass is mostly worked in combination 
 with plain glass, its basis of crystal or 
 soda-glass must be constituted in accord- 
 ance with the quality of the glass to be 
 combined with :t. In other words it 
 must be as hard, or as soft, in fact must 
 possess the same expansion coefficient 
 as the glass with which it is to be com- 
 bined, or else changes of temperature 
 will produce cracks and separation of 
 the layers. 
 
 Aventurine Glass (according to Cle- 
 m an dot). Three hundred parts of pul- 
 verized glass, 40 of cuprous oxide, 80 of 
 iron scales. The following composition 
 seems to us more suitable : One hundred 
 parts of sand, 13 of lime, 18 of soda, 2 
 of minium, 3 of oxide of tin, 6 of iron 
 scales, and 6 of copper scales. 
 
 Blue Glass, No. I. Fifty parts of 
 sand, 16i of soda, 10 of chalk, and 5 of 
 zaffre. 
 
 No. II. One hundred parts of sand, 
 150 of minium. 35 of potash, 10 of borax, 
 and 4 of cobaltic oxide. 
 
 No. III. One hundred jmrts of sand, 
 50 of potash, 6 of air-slaked lime, and 
 
 1 of cobaltic oxide. 
 
 8app!iire Blue is obtained by adding 
 from i to 3 per cent, of cobaltic oxide. 
 
 Azure Blue is produced with an ad- 
 dition of 1 per cent, of cupric oxide. 
 
 Golden Topaz Glass is produced by 
 adding i per cent, of uranic oxide to a 
 crystal-glass composition. 
 
 Green G/aas, No. I. Fifty parts of 
 sand, 15 of soda, 5 of chalk, 1 of salt- 
 petre, 5 to 10 of ferric oxide, and 3 to 
 10 of cupric oxide. 
 
 No. II. Thirty-seven and a half parts 
 of sand, 12.5 parts of soda, 6 of chalk, 2 
 of saltpetre, 2 to 5 of ferric oxide, and 
 
 2 to 5 of cupric oxide, 
 
GLASS COMPOSITION OF, ETC. 
 
 145 
 
 ^To. III. Sixty parts of sand, 20 of 
 soda, 6 of chalk, 1 of saltpetre, 0.8 to 1 
 part of chrome green. 
 
 No. IV. One hundred parts of sand, 
 60 of potash, S of air-slaked lime, and 
 2 of chrome green. 
 
 No. V. One hundred parts of sand, 
 85 of minium, 38 of potash, 4 of oxide 
 of antimony, and 2 of cobaltic oxide. 
 
 Hyalite "Glass, No. I. One hundred 
 parts of sand, 66 of potash, 8 of air-slaked 
 lime, 6 of arsenious acid, 5 of cobaltic 
 oxide, 5 of pyrolusite, and 5 of ferric 
 oxide. 
 
 No. II. One hundred parts of sand, 
 82 of minium, 38 of potash, 8 of salt- 
 petre, 4 of cobaitic oxide, 4 of pyrolu- 
 site, 6 of iron scales, and 6 of copper 
 scales. 
 
 Orange Glass is obtained by adding 
 2 per cent, of ferric oxide and per 
 i?ent. of pyrolusite to the composition 
 jfbr yellow glass, which see. 
 
 Red Glass. The following color serves 
 for flashing the glass : One hundred 
 parts of sand, 200 of minium, 6 of cop- 
 per ashes, and 6 of tin ashes. 
 
 Red with Copper is produced by add- 
 ing 1 per cent, of cupric oxide and 1 
 to li per cent, of iron scales to a com- 
 position of white or crystal glass. We 
 give two receipts : 
 
 No. I. One hundred parts of sand, 
 160 of minium, 7 of copper scales, and 
 7 of tin ash. 
 
 No. II. One hundred parts of sand, 
 200 of minium, 6 of copper ashes, and 
 6 of tin ashes. 
 
 Red with Gold. One hundred parts 
 of silica, 10 of best potash, 80 of minium, 
 and 12i of saltpetre. Fuse this com- 
 position, and add for every 10 pounds 
 of the composition a dollar gold piece 
 dissolved in aqua regia. 
 
 Turquoise Glass. One hundred parts 
 of pulverized quartz, or sand free from 
 iron, 40 of best potash, 11 of saltpetre, 
 and A to r, of cupric oxide. 
 
 Violet Glass. I. Fifty-five parts of 
 sand, 15 of soda, 2 of saltpetre, 5 of 
 chalk, 10 of pyrolusite, and 2 of ferric 
 oxide. 
 
 II. Fifty-eight parts of sand, 16 of 
 soda, 2 of saltpetre, 10 of chalk, and 2 
 to 10 of pyrolusite. 
 
 Yellow Glass. I. Sixty -five parts of 
 sand, 25 of soda, 3 of chalk, 1 of alder- 
 wood charcoal. 
 10 
 
 II. Fifty-five parts of sand, 15 of 
 soda, 5 of chalk, 2 of saltpetre, 16 of 
 pyrolusite, and 13 of ferric oxide. 
 
 III. One hundred parts of sand, 50 
 of potash, 8 of air-slaked lime, 6 to 10 
 of lead antimoniate. This composition 
 furnishes the yellow used for Ehine 
 wine bottles. 
 
 Neiv Combination of Materials for 
 the Production of Glass. Seventeen 
 parts of sand or silica, 4 of sodium 
 carbonate, and 2 of borax. It is claimed 
 that the glass produced from this com- 
 position equals flint or crystal glass in 
 transparency, clearness, and lustre, and 
 can be produced at half the cost. 
 
 Iridescent Glass, The moment 
 when the glass which is to be made 
 iridescent lias been given the highest 
 degree of heat the following mixture is 
 introduced into the annealing chamber 
 through an aperture : One part of car- 
 bonate of baryta, i part of strontium, 
 and 2 of tin salt. The vapors which 
 are developed produce the lustre. 
 Strontium gives red, baryta blue, and 
 tin salt various colors. 
 
 Engraving on Glass. Grind the glass 
 until it is opaque and draw the design 
 upon it with a mixture of anhydrous 
 boracic acid, gum, and water. When 
 the drawing is dry, heat the glass suffi- 
 cient to melt the boracic acid. The 
 acid gives the glass its original trans- 
 parency, and the design is fixed. Col- 
 ored designs are produced by adding 
 different metallic oxides to the boracic 
 acid. 
 
 Colored Designs upon Glass. Coat 
 the glass with shellac varnish, oil of 
 turpentine, or mucilage. Cover with 
 the pattern and dust the pulverized 
 colors over the cut places in the pat- 
 tern. When dry, place the glass in a 
 closed muffle to burn in the colors. 
 
 Glass Engraving. Coat the glass 
 with wax and engrave the design so 
 that it shows through. Pour 2 parts of 
 sulphuric acid over 1 part of pulverized 
 fluorspar in a leaden basin, and over it 
 plate the prepared glass, drawing down. 
 The design will be etched into the glass 
 in about an hour or two. The wax is 
 removed with oil of turpentine. 
 
 A simpler process is to apply an 
 aqueous solution of hydrofluoric acid 
 to the design with a soft brush. By re- 
 peating this operation several times 
 
146 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL EECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 the design or scale will be found en- 
 graved upon the glass. [Etching with 
 the aqueous solution is much inferior 
 in sharpness and opacity to that done 
 with the vapor. WJ. 
 
 To Pulverize Glass. Heat the glass 
 to a red heat, and while in this condi- 
 tion plunge it into cold water; then 
 dry and pulverize it. It becomes more 
 friable by the sudden cooling. 
 
 To Bend Glass Tubes. If a sharp 
 bend is required, heat only a small 
 portion of the tube to a dull red heat, 
 at the same time turning it in the flame, 
 so that it shall be softened uniformly all 
 around, and bend with the hand held 
 at the opposite ends, applying pressure 
 gradually. If the bend is to be gradual, 
 heat an inch or two of the tube before 
 bending it. If a gradual bend on the 
 one side is wanted and a sharp one on 
 the other, as in retorts, a little manage- 
 ment of the tube in the flame, moving 
 it to the right and left alternately, at 
 the same time turning it around, will 
 easily form it into the desired shape. 
 In bending glass, the part which is to 
 be concave must be heated most. 
 
 An ordinary gas flame can be used 
 for bending glass, but that of a Bunsen 
 burner is to be preferred. 
 
 [If the tube is of large diameter it 
 will be impossible to get sufficient heat 
 to soften it enough for the purpose, 
 except with the glass blower's lamp. 
 To avoid the "kinking" of the bend on 
 the inside, which will contract the 
 area of the tube at the bend, it is neces- 
 sary with large tubes to fill them first 
 with sand, closing the ends with corks. 
 The sand will give the necessary sup- 
 port to the walls of the tube in bend- 
 ing. 
 
 The secret of success in all these 
 manipulations lies chiefly in the art of 
 heating the portion of the tube to be 
 bent uniformly, and this is only ac- 
 complished by keeping the tube, while 
 in the flame, constantly and evenly 
 turning. W.] 
 
 GLAZES FOR EARTHEN-WAKE. 
 
 Glazing for Common Earthen-ware. 
 Water-glass (potassium or sodium sili- 
 cate) of 35 Beaume, either alone or 
 with the addition of 20 per cent, of red 
 
 lead and 5 per cent, of silicic acid, is 
 used. The thick solution is laid upon 
 the half-burned ware by means of a 
 brush. It is also used for glazing crock- 
 ery, being quite indestructible when 
 well burned. 
 
 English Glaze for Earthen-ware. The 
 glaze is fixed on light yellow ware of 
 great uniformity and porosity and of a 
 fire-proof clay. It is of a dark violet- 
 brown color and somewhat translucent, 
 of extraordinary lustre and free from 
 flaws. It consists of 28 parts of quartz 
 sand, 40 of silver litharge, 18 of pipe- 
 clay, 9 of best manganese oxide, and 5 
 of chalk. 
 
 In order to produce uniformity and 
 beauty of color the materials are fused 
 into a frit and then ground finely. .The 
 burning of the frit can be easily accom- 
 plished in a potter's oven furnished 
 with a cover. 
 
 Glazes free from Lead for Earthen- 
 ware. Pulverize a mixture of 4 parts 
 of calcined soda and 5 of white sand 
 free from iron, and place the powder in a 
 crucible which has been chalked in the 
 inside and expose it to the full heat of a 
 potter's oven, where it is melted into a 
 spongy glass, which, in a pulverized 
 state, is used for glazing. 
 
 The following mixtures are treated in 
 the same manner : 
 
 I. Thirty-two parts of pulverized 
 glass, 16 of borax, and 3 of tartar. 
 
 II. Fifty parts of soda and 90 of flint. 
 
 III. Eighty parts of soda, 70 of sand, 
 and 10 of clay. 
 
 IV. Three parts of calcined soda and 
 4 of quartz sand. 
 
 New Glazing free from Lead for 
 Kitchen Utensils. ' Melt together 100 
 parts of borax, 50 of feldspar, and 50 
 of clay. The hot, fluid mass is diluted 
 with water until it has a temperature 
 of 120 F., when the previously heated 
 utensils are dipped into it and then 
 burned in a good oven. 
 
 Another glaze, which is very solid 
 and resists acids almost as well as glass, 
 consists of 100 parts of powdered quartz, 
 80 of purified potash, 10 of saltpetre, 
 and 20 of air-slaked lime. The ingre- 
 dients are melted, powdered, mixed, and 
 heated. 
 
 Very Fine Composition for White 
 Glaze, which is used in Feilmer's man- 
 ufactory in Berlin, is obtained by mix- 
 
GLASS AND OTHER SIGNS. 
 
 147 
 
 ing 36 parts of ash, 27 of sand, and 15 
 of salt, and ashing over with 20 parts 
 of lead and 10 of tin. 
 
 White-Glazes. I. Mix intimately 100 
 parts by weight of white glass, 50 of 
 white sand, 40 of dry, common salt, 120 
 of plumbic oxide, and 60 of tin ashes. 
 
 II. One hundred parts of plumbic 
 oxide, 50 of tin ashes, 100 of white sand, 
 50 of glass, 10 of common salt, 10 of 
 heavy -spar, and 5 to 10 of dry soda. 
 This is more fusible than No. I. Both 
 mixtures furnish a whiter coating the 
 freer the clay is from iron with which 
 the articles are manufactured. 
 
 III. Melt together 24 to 25 parts of 
 red lead, 15 to 16 of tin ashes, 36 to &S 
 of quartz sand, 12 to 14 of potters' clay 
 free" from iron, 7 of carbonate of lime, 3 
 of carbonate of magnesia, and 18 to 20 
 of calcined soda. The mass, when cold, 
 is comminuted, ground, and sifted. 
 
 To Give Earthen-ware or Porcelain a 
 Marbled or Granite Appearance. Dis- 
 solve gum tragacanth in water to the 
 consistency of a thick syrup, which will 
 require 3 to 4 days, and add about 1() 
 times its bulk in water to reduce its 
 specific gravity to 1.003. Now prepare 
 a decoction of 5 ounce of seeds of flea- 
 bane (Pttyllinm pulicaria) in 1 gallon 
 of water and mix 1 part of this decoc- 
 tion with 5 of solution of gum traga- 
 canth. On account of the high specific 
 gravity of the coloring substances used 
 in the process it becomes necessary to 
 add 1 pound of very thin solution of 
 clay in water to each pound of the 
 mixture, as without this precaution the 
 pigments would not float on the surface 
 of the preparation. . The pigments 
 colors used under glaze are mostly em- 
 ployed are triturated with water and 
 kept in special pots until used, when 
 they are mixed with beef gall. To pre- 
 vent the beef gall from spoiling some 
 carbolic acid is added. Now spatter by 
 means of a brush the different colors 
 mixed with beef gall upon the surface 
 of the mixture of the gum tragacanth, 
 decoction of fleabane seed, and solution 
 of clay. Marbled veins will immedi- 
 ately be formed, which can be worked 
 into imitation of any desired variety of 
 marble by stirring the mass with a 
 horse comb or similar instrument. The 
 articles, which should be rather porous, 
 are dipped into this solution, then 
 
 washed to remove the shiny prepara-> 
 tion, heated in a muffle, glazed, and 
 treated like common ware. Any vari 
 ety of decoration can be prepared by 
 painting parts on the surface of the arti- 
 cles with round lake or white lead 
 mixed with gum Arabic, marbling the 
 unpainted spots, and washing of the re- 
 served places ; or by impressing copper 
 prints, covering them with round lake, 
 and marbling. If glazed articles are to 
 be marbled pigments rubbed with oil 
 are used. The article must first be 
 coated with dammar resin dissolved in 
 oil of turpentine ( 1J ounces of resin dis- 
 solved in 1 pound of oil of turpentine). 
 After the^ coating is perfectly dry the 
 article is treated in the same manner as 
 the unglazed. With skill in the man- 
 ipulation very beautiful articles can be 
 prepared by this process. 
 
 GLASS AND OTHER SlGNS. 
 
 The following directions for making 
 glass signs are by W. Arrenbrecht : 
 
 I. To Etch Glxs (Fine-grained). 
 Paint the entire glass, except the parts 
 to be etched, with asphaltum or, best, 
 with ordinary iron lacquer which covers 
 well, and allow it to dry, but not en- 
 tirely hard, as otherwise the acid is apt 
 to find its way under the iron lacquer. 
 Place a rim of putty, prepared with 
 wax and starch, around the design, care 
 being had that it laps over upon the 
 iron lacquer. Then pour hydrofluoric 
 acid upon the surface, let it stand for 
 5 minutes, pour it back into the flask, 
 and wash the entire surface with water. 
 Then remove the asphaltum with oil 
 of turpentine and wash again with white 
 soap and water. 
 
 II. To Etch Glass (Coarse-grained). 
 Proceed in the same manner as above, 
 but throw emery into the acid immedir 
 ately after it has been poured upon the 
 surface; let it remain for 5 minutes, 
 then pour it back into the flask and 
 wash and cleanse as above. 
 
 III. Gilding Glass. Polish the glass 
 thoroughly with whiting and then with 
 a linen'rag dipped in alcohol. Prepare 
 a size by boiling 2 ounces of isinglass 
 in sufficient water to cover it, and, when 
 dissolved, add 1 quart of alcohol, and 
 then dilute to 2 quarts with water, and 
 
148 
 
 TECHtfO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 filter. Flood the surface to be gilded 
 with the size, lay the gold leaf flat on 
 it, and scatter elutriated chalk (whit- 
 ing) previously warmed over the whole. 
 Should the chalk form lumps in heat' 
 ing, rub it fine, but the dusting over 
 with chalk must be delayed until the 
 gold leaf is dry. When the gold leaf 
 is entirely dry dust it off with a fine 
 brush and then polish it with a piece 
 of silk velvet. Kepeat the gilding once 
 more, and then back all the gold which 
 is to remain with copal or dammar lac- 
 quer. When this is dry remove the 
 superfluous gold by rubbing with the 
 moistened finger. 
 
 IV. Silvering on Glass is dojiein the 
 same manner as gilding, but somewhat 
 more isinglass is used, as the silver leaf 
 being softer than gold leaf requires a 
 stronger agglutinant, 
 
 V. Gilding on Shoip Windows. The 
 same solution of isinglass given under 
 III. is used. Cover the surface to be 
 gilded with the mixture and lay on the 
 gold obliquely. When dry, polish the 
 gold with a rag of silk velvet and re- 
 peat the operation. 
 
 VI. Correcting the Isinglass Mixture. 
 If, after the second polishing, stains 
 should make their appearance in the 
 gold, the solution contains too much 
 isinglass and must be diluted by adding 
 distilled water and rectified alcohol. 
 But if the gold cannot be polished the 
 mixture contains too little isinglass. It 
 is therefore advisable to first test the 
 solution upon a piece of glass. 
 
 VII. Sacking the Inscription on Show 
 Windows. After rubbing off" the super- 
 fluous gold with the finger apply to the 
 entire inscription a coat of good oil 
 paint mixed with some hemp oil and 
 English carriage lacquer, which will I 
 preserve the inscription even upon 
 panes covered with sweat, and its dura- 
 bility can be guaranteed for years. 
 
 VIII. Hacking Glass Signs without 
 Shades. After rubbing off carefully 
 the superfluous gold with the finger 
 apply 2 coats of Frankfort black rubbed 
 up in oil to the entire back of the glass 
 and inscription. 
 
 IX. Hacking Glass Signs with Shades. 
 Apply 2 coats of the same black, but 
 leave the shades free. When the black 
 is dry, paint the places left for the shades 
 with red, green, blue, etc., oil paint. 
 
 X. With Mother-of-pearl Insertions, 
 Gild in the manner given above. When 
 the gold is dry, coat only the outlines 
 of the inscription with copal or dammar 
 lacquer. After carefully removing the 
 superfluous gold apply 2 coats of the 
 mentioned black oil paint, leaving free 
 the inner part of the inscription, etc., 
 for the mother-of-pearl. If the inscrip- 
 tion is to be shaded proceed in the same 
 manner as given \\nder IX. 
 
 XI. Mother-of-pearl Insertions. Very 
 thin laminae of mother-of-pearl of differ- 
 ent colors are used. Select suitable 
 pieces, and, if too large, break them in 
 two. Then coat first the places left 
 free in the inscription with dammar 
 lacquer, and then one side of each of the 
 pieces of mother-of-pearl ; lay them on 
 the inscription and press them gently 
 down with the handle of the brush, 
 continuing thus until the entire surface 
 is covered. Do not place the pieces 
 close together, but leave small inter- 
 stices between them, which are after- 
 ward filled up with lacquer and pul- 
 verized oyster shells or other shells 
 dusted in. 
 
 XII. .Backing with Tinfoil is done 
 in the same manner as with mother-of- 
 pearl, except that the oil paint is not 
 allowed to dry entirely, but to remain 
 just sticky enough to fasten the tin- 
 foil by a gentle pressure, care being 
 had to place the glossy side of the tin- 
 foil upon the glass. 
 
 Transparent Glass Sign (Child's 
 American Patent). Coat a glass plate 
 with paint so that the places to be 
 transparent remain free. Back this 
 glass plate with a second, and fill the 
 space between them with pieces of col- 
 ored glass of irregular si/es. By illu- 
 minating the sign from the back a 
 wonderful effect is produced. Further, 
 the filling of such a sign could be set in 
 motion by a suitable apparatus, thus 
 producing a kaleidoscopic effect. 
 
 Sign Painting. It may be laid down 
 as a general rule for all Roman capitals, 
 except I, J, M, and W, that the extreme 
 breadth should equal the height; the 
 breadth of I and J is equal to half the 
 height, and that of M and W to 1} 
 times the height. Gilt letters are writ- 
 ten with Japan size, a substance which 
 soon acquires such a state, between 
 dryness and wetness, that leaf gold laid 
 
GLUE, MANUFACTURE OF. 
 
 on it adheres perfectly. The gold leaf 
 should be gently dabbed over with a 
 pad of cotton wool, which will smooth 
 the surfaces of the gilding and remove 
 all superfluous pieces of gold leaf. 
 
 Jpmi Gold Size. Boil 2^ gallons 
 of linseed oil for 2 hours, then add 
 gradually and in small portions at a 
 time 1-i pounds each of litharge and min- 
 ium and 9i of sulphate of iron, keeping 
 the oil boiling all the time and stirring 
 from the bottom of the pot. It is ad- 
 visable to have a large iron ladle ready 
 to cool the mass down, if it should ap- 
 pear to rise too high, by ladling a part 
 of it into an empty pot. After boiling 
 the oil for about 3 hours melt 2i pounds 
 of gum an ime and heat i gallon of raw 
 linseed oil. When the gum is melted 
 pour in the oil; let it boil until clear, 
 then cool for a few minutes and add it 
 to the first oil. Wash out the pot in 
 which the gum has been melted and 
 melt 2} pounds more of gum anime and 
 heat -V gallon more of oil in the same 
 manner as before and add that also to 
 first oil. Now urge the fire in the fur- 
 nace, but keep it well in front, so that 
 it can be drawn at a moment's warning. 
 The gold size will soon throw up a 
 frothy scum on the surface, which must 
 be constantly kept down by stirring 
 with the ladle, and never be allowed 
 to rise higher than 4 inches below the 
 edge of the pot. After boiling for about 
 5 hours it will commence to become 
 stringy, but boiling must be continued 
 until it hangs to the ladle and drops in 
 lumps. Now take the size from the fire 
 and cool it as quickly as possible, and 
 when cool enough mix it with 8 gallons 
 of turpentine, but do not stir until all 
 the turpentine is in and the froth on the 
 surface has disappeared, and then strain 
 as quickly as possible. 
 
 GLUE, MANUFACTURE OF. 
 
 Glue, as is well known, is manu- 
 factured from the parings of skins and 
 hides steeped in lime-water. The waste 
 of calf and sheepskins gives the best 
 glue ; that from horse-hides is dark and 
 of a poor quality. In buying the waste, 
 it frequently occurs that particles of 
 flesh are mixed with them. This is not 
 actually injurious, as in manufacturing 
 the glue they are regained as fat. 
 
 The materials from which glue is 
 boiled are called " glue stock,'* and con- 
 sist of: 
 
 a. Waste of tanneries, yielding as 
 much as 44 to 4(5 per cent, of glue; 
 
 b. Waste obtained in preparing the 
 skins of sheep, goats, and kids ; 
 
 c. The scarf-skin of bullocks' hides 
 and waste in fleshing the hide, giving 
 about 30 per cent, of glue; 
 
 d. Waste of Buenos Ayres skins, 
 yielding 50 to 60 per cent, of glue ; 
 
 e. The tendons, buttock pieces, and 
 generative organs of cattle with 35 per 
 cent, of glue ; 
 
 /. Horse sinews with 15 to 18 per 
 cent, of glue; 
 
 g. Old gloves, rabbit skins from 
 which the hair has been removed by 
 hatters, also dog and cat skins; 
 
 h. Bullocks' feet and parchment 
 shavings with 62 per cent, of glue; 
 
 i. Waste of tanneries, as foot, head, 
 and buttock pieces, which tanners cut 
 off before tanning, ear-laps of sheep and 
 cows, sheeps' feet with the tendons, 
 small bones and waste of skins. Good 
 material of this kind yields 38 to 42 per 
 cent, of glue ; 
 
 k. Skins unfit for tanning, or such 
 as have been used for packing purposes ; 
 for instance those in which indigo is 
 brought from South America. This 
 stock yields from 50 to 55 per cent, of 
 glue ; 
 
 I, Cartilages and other waste offish. 
 
 The yield of glue from waste, as will 
 be seen from the above, varies very 
 much. From 500 pounds of good ma- 
 terial, 250 pounds of glue may be ob- 
 tained, while 650 to 1200 pounds of poor 
 stock may be required for the same 
 quantity. 
 
 Steeping the Stock in Lime. The glue 
 stock is generally steeped in lime-water 
 in order to preserve it, but before boil- 
 ing it into glue it must be again steeped, 
 and this becomes especially necessary 
 when, after being washed in pure water, 
 the waste assumes a bluish color and 
 becomes very soft. This is a sure sign 
 that it contains too little lime, and it 
 must then remain for a few days in thin 
 lime-water, when it is dried. "The best 
 manner of doing this is as follows: 
 Steep the waste in clear water for 24 
 hours, then place it in a basket to drain 
 off the water ; after draining steep it for 
 
150 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 several days in thin lime and replace it 
 in the basket to drain, and wash off with 
 clean water and dry. This steeping in 
 lime-water is of the utmost importance, 
 as the quality of tiie glue is mainly de- 
 pendent upon it. Too much steeping 
 yields a small quantity of glue, but of 
 an excellent quality, while that ob- 
 tained from glue stock steeped only for 
 a short time is dark. 
 
 It is best to store fresh or undried 
 glue stock during the winter in wooden 
 or brick vats containing dilute lime- 
 water, well stirred when putting in the 
 waste. 
 
 The glue boiling, which is best done 
 in the open air, is commenced in spring, 
 as soon as the weather permits. This can 
 be done with wet and with dry waste. 
 
 Boiling with wet waste is done by 
 covering glue stock in a vat with water 
 and allowing it to soak for 12 hours, then 
 drained, and all signs of lime washed off. 
 It is then piled in heaps and exposed 
 to the air for 12 to 24 hours to evaporate 
 the acrid constituents. It is now boiled, 
 the work being commenced as early in 
 the morning as possible. 
 
 be sufficiently steeped in lime, washed, 
 and dried. 
 
 The actual boiling is done in a copper 
 or iron boiler (Fig. 13), which, if 250 
 pounds of glue are to be manufactured, 
 should be large enough to hold at least 
 275 gallons of water. It should be 
 somewhat shallower than its width, and 
 should have a double bottom bent in- 
 wards in order to offer greater resistance 
 to the fire. It should be further pro- 
 vided with a discharge pipe and cock, 
 through which the fluid glue is drawn 
 off. Upon the bottom of the boiler 
 is a perforated bottom of sheet iron 
 or copper, to prevent the waste from 
 lying immediately upon the bottom, 
 and burning. 
 
 It is an easy matter to procure all 
 the warm water which may be required 
 by utilizing the waste heat for heating 
 water in a reservoir erected in the direc- 
 tion in which the gases of combustion 
 escape. It is placed higher than the 
 boiler so that the warm water can be 
 readily drawn from it into the latter 
 (see Fig. 13). 
 
 When everything is in proper shape, 
 
 Fig. 13. 
 
 For boiling with dry waste nothing I the bones, sinews, and other constit- 
 farther is required than that it should | uents are placed in the boiler, and on 
 
GLUE, MANUFACTURE OF. 
 
 151 
 
 the top of this a sufficient quantity of 
 waste to fill the boiler. If this holds 
 275 gallons, about 125 gallons of clean 
 water are added, if wet material is used, 
 and about 225 gallons to dry stock. 
 The mass is now boiled until a sample 
 taken from the boiler cools to a jelly. 
 This, for wet material, requires gener- 
 ally 1 hour; for dry stock, 2 hours. The 
 glue will be ready for cutting when a 
 sample, poured into a cup, can be con- 
 veniently taken out when cold. The 
 fluid is then drawn off into the cooling 
 vat (clarifying vat). This is also pro- 
 vided with a discharge pipe and cock 
 and placed high enough to allow of a 
 bucket being conveniently put under 
 it. When the glue has become clear 
 it is drawn off and poured into boxes 
 (moulds). 
 
 A fresh quantity of waste is added to 
 the material remaining in the boiler, 
 and boiled. This is called the second 
 boiling, and is treated in the same man- 
 ner as the first. 
 
 The residue remaining in the boiler 
 after the second boiling is boiled until 
 the fluid forms glue. This is called the 
 third boiling. The product is treated in 
 the same manner as the foregoing. 
 
 The residue from the third boiling is 
 used for preparing the so-called glue- 
 water. This is made by pouring in 
 enough water to cover the residue in the 
 boiler from 2} to 3} inches deep, and 
 boiling about 2 hours, until all glutinous 
 substances have been dissolved. This 
 fluid is too weak to form glue. It is 
 added to the next boiling of glue stock, 
 to accelerate the process. 
 
 Clarifying the Glue. This is done 
 either with alum or white of egg. 
 Pulverize 2 to 4i pounds of alum for 
 every 200 pounds of glue, and dissolve 
 it in 50 pounds of boiling glue taken 
 from the boiler. Add this solution to 
 the mass in the boiler, and let the 
 whole boil for 10 minutes longer, 
 when the clarified glue is drawn off into 
 the cooling vat. The glue may also be 
 clarified by dissolving for every 100 
 pounds of glue f pound of purified 
 borax finely powdered and 3 ounces of 
 purified potash in boiling glue, and 
 pouring this into the fluid in the boiler. 
 
 To Color the Glue Yellow. For every 
 100 pounds of glue to be colored dis- 
 solve 1 to 2 pounds of finely-powdered i 
 
 crystallized soda in boiling glue, and 
 stir this into fhe boiler until a uniform 
 yellow color is obtained. 
 
 To Whiten the Glue. For every 100 
 pounds of glue add 2 pounds of sugar 
 of lead completely dissolved in a hot 
 solution of glue. Mix it thoroughly 
 with the glue in the boiler, and then 
 add 2 pounds of pulverized white 
 vitriol (sulphate of zinc) also dissolved 
 in boiling glue. 
 
 Pouring into the Boxes (Moulds). 
 This is done as soon as the glue has 
 
 A A 
 
 Fig. 14. 
 
 been boiled, sufficiently cooled, and 
 clarified. The boxes (Figs. 14, 15) are 
 
 
 J L 
 
 Fig. 15. 
 
 made of pine, and are generally 4 feet 
 long, 84 inches wide, and 6 inches high. 
 They should be very smooth inside and 
 water-tight. Before the glue is poured 
 into them they should be kept filled 
 for 1 day with fresh milk of lime. This 
 is called freshening the boxes. In the 
 spring the boxes should be given a coat 
 of pure linseed oil, which will facili- 
 tate the removal of the congealed glue. 
 The operation of pouring the glue 
 into the moulds is a very simple one : A 
 funnel (Fig. 16) with a flat bottom 
 reaching over the edges of the mould 
 sits so firmly upon them as to need no 
 support from the workman. In the 
 funnel is a small sieve (Fig. 17) of 
 horsehair, which keeps back any im- 
 purities in the glue. When the first 
 
152 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Fig. 16. 
 
 mould is filled 
 place the funne] 
 upon the next, and 
 so on until the vat 
 is empty. 
 
 Taking the Glue 
 I from the Moulds. 
 Twelve hours are 
 generally required 
 for the glue to con- 
 
 geal, but in warm weather 24 hours 
 
 may be necessary. In taking the mass 
 
 from the mould dip 
 
 the blade of a large 
 
 knife (Fig. 18) in cold 
 
 water, and with it 
 
 loosen the glue from 
 
 the sides of the box, 
 
 which must be done 
 
 skilfully and quickly. 
 
 The box is then ,-,. ,_ 
 
 emptied on a table * 1 S < 17< 
 
 and the glue quickly cut into pieces of 
 
 desired shape and thickness with a 
 copper knife dipped in water. 
 When a few cuts have been 
 made the knife is again dipped 
 in water, in order to give to the 
 pieces a smooth surface and pre- 
 vent them from becoming full 
 of cracks. The hand is now 
 
 Ruthatfs New Process of Making 
 Glue from Waste of Hides and kis 
 
 Fig. 19 a. 
 
 in Tanneries. The waste is placed in 
 water until it begins to smell, and then 
 
 Fig. 20. 
 washed in running water. Two and a 
 
 _. half parts of sulphuric acid of 1.035 
 
 dipped into water, and the pieces ! specific gravity to every 11.2 parts of 
 of glue laid upon hurdles strung the waste, while it is still moist, are 
 
 -.1-^ + Vt ^^,^.1 i_~,'l -L_ 1 /T* 
 
 Fig. 
 18. 
 
 with cord similar to a net (Figs. 
 19, 19 a) which are then carried 
 into the drying-room and placed 
 upon frames providedwith strips 
 
 then poured over it, and it is allowed 
 to stand in a covered vessel for 24 hours. 
 The acid is then poured off, the waste 
 washed in clean water, and the same 
 
 set 2| to 3 inches apart (Fig. ' amount of sulphuric acid to the same 
 20). In the course of a few quantity of waste again poured over it. 
 hours the glue upon the hurdle j After allowing it to stand quietly for 
 
 _j Ti ! Al - - "" to ' '" * * ' 
 
 is turned. It is then allowed to dry some time, it is thoroughly washed to 
 gradually, and when nearly dry is remove all traces of acid, pressed out, 
 
 and placed in a vat of such capacity 
 that it will be filled about by it. The 
 vat is then filled with water of 110 F., 
 covered, and the mass allowed to stand 
 quietly for 24 hours. The liquid is 
 then drawn off, and, on cooling, con- 
 geals to a colorless gelatine. Water of 
 a higher temperature is poured upon 
 the residue in the vat. After 24 hours 
 this fluid is drawn off and allowed to 
 congeal to gelatine, and the process is 
 repeated until everything has been dis- 
 solved. This gelatine can be kept for 
 a long time in well-closed jars. 
 
 G/ue from Waste of Tanned Leather. 
 
 Fig. 19. 
 
 strungupon cord by means of a needle, 
 and dried completely in the air, and 
 is then ready for the market. 
 
 Place the waste in soda lye of 1.025 
 
GLUE, MANUFACTURE OF. 
 
 153 
 
 specific gravity for 6 to 12 hours, and 
 tiien press out. To extract all the tan- 
 nin, which is absolutely necessary tor 
 the gaining of glue, the waste must l>e 
 again treated with soda lye. It is tlien 
 thoroughly washed, placed in dilute 
 acid for 24 hours; then, to neutralize 
 tie acid, in a weak solution of soda, 
 aid finally thoroughly washed with 
 water, when it is ready to be worked 
 into glue in the ordinary manner. 
 
 Muclayan's Apparatus and Process 
 for Manufacturing Glue and Gelatine. 
 The apparatus is intended for the ex- 
 traction of gelatine from bones by the 
 aid of steam. Fig. 21 represents a side 
 
 and in the evaporating pan e to the 
 boiling point; in cocks for the escape 
 of condensed steam; and n a crank 
 which moves a driving gear catching 
 into a wheel, by which the extracting 
 pan is revolved. 
 
 Extracting the Gelatine. First 
 Operation. The bones are brought in 
 contact with lime in order to free them 
 from all fleshy parts. They are then 
 thrown into the box </, to extract the fat, 
 which is done by boiling them by the 
 introduction of steam through the pipes 
 b and c into the serpentine pipe /. 'Ih-e 
 fat swimming on the top is skimmed off. 
 The bones are then taken from d and 
 
 Fig. 21. 
 
 view of the apparatus, and Fig. 22 the | placed in the extracting vessel/, which 
 ground-plan ; a is the steam-boiler; b a [ is carefully luted, and steam at a press- 
 pipe conducting the steam to all parts, I ure of atmosphere then introduced. 
 
 I 
 
 Fig. 22. 
 
 of the apparatus; c pipes conducting 
 the steam to the box d, serving for ex- 
 tracting the fat from the bones, then to 
 the evaporating pan e, and finally to the 
 extracting pan ; /, g are cocks for regu- 
 lating the introduction of steam ; h a 
 pedestal upon which the extracting pan 
 can be revolved ; i are valves for the 
 escape of steam ; k cocks through which 
 the steam leaves the extracting vessel ; 
 another cock is placed beneath the ex- 
 tracting vessel, through which the 
 liquid gelatine is drawn off; / are 
 serpentine pipes through which steam 
 passes to bring the fluids in the box d 
 
 After exposing the bones to the action 
 of the steam for 2 hours the gelatin^ is 
 drawn off through the cock on the bottom 
 of the extracting pan, and after filtering, 
 is brought into the evaporating pan e. 
 
 Second Operation. Some of the fluid 
 in the box d is brought into the extract^ 
 ing pan /, steam is- again introduced, 
 and after 3 hours the gelatine is drawn 
 off, filtered, and added to the first. 
 
 Third Operation. All the gelatine 
 obtained having been brought into the 
 evaporating pan e, it is evaporated to 
 the proper consistency and then treated 
 in. the same manner as glue, 
 
154 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 To M<ike Gelatine from Glue. Soak 
 6 pounds of good glue for 2 days in 1 
 gallons of strong vinegar, with 1 ounce 
 of which saturate 40 to 45 grains of po- 
 tassium carbonate. Then pour off the 
 vinegar and place the glue in a sieve 
 suspended in a vat of cold water, and 
 allow it to remain 12 hours to remove 
 the acetates adhering to the glue, which 
 is now clear as glass, with a yellow tint. 
 Glue thus prepared gives, when poured 
 upon glass plates, white sheets of gela- 
 tine. They are somewhat more brittle 
 than those obtained from bone glue, but 
 this difficulty is overcome by adding 
 more or less glycerine, according to the 
 season of the year. In this manner 
 gelatine can be produced which binds 
 better than that obtained from bones, 
 and at less cost. 
 
 Liquid Steam Glue. The Russian 
 Bteam glue is prepared in the following 
 manner: Soak 100 pounds of good glue 
 in 12 to 14 gallons of water, and add 5 
 to 6 pounds of aqua-fortis. The peculiar 
 white color of Russian glue is produced 
 by mixing 6 pounds of finely-powdered 
 sulphate of lead with the solution. 
 
 Heller's Steam Glue consists of 100 
 parts of good glue, 200 of water, and 12 
 of aqua-fortis. 
 
 Cold Liquid Glue. Dilute 2 to 2 
 parts of crude nitric acid with 40 to 50 
 of water. Soak in this 25 parts ot glue 
 for 24 hours and then heat the mixture 
 until it is homogeneous. The quantity 
 of acid used depends on the quality of 
 the glue. All other receipts have given 
 unsatisfactory results. 
 
 To Prepare Excellent Glue which will 
 hold in Water. Powder and dissolve 1 
 part of glue in 1 oi thick linseed-oil 
 varnish boiling hot, and mix thor- 
 oughly. In using it heat the 2 planed 
 sides of the wood, apply the glue warm, 
 and press the pieces together. 
 
 Good Furniture Glue. Boil the de- 
 sired quantity of glue with water. When 
 sufficiently boiled pour it into a porce- 
 lain dish and rub with a pestle into a 
 thick paste free from lumps. Then 
 pour it into an earthen- ware dish, let it 
 flool, and cut it into pieces of desired 
 size. When it is to be used dissolve 2 
 parts of the prepared glue in 1 of ordi- 
 nary whiskey diluted with 2 of water, 
 and let it boil up once. The glue is 
 now ready for use and can be kept for 
 
 some time. It possesses extraordinary 
 adhesive power. 
 
 Glue for Books. Dissolve over a 
 moderate fire 12 parts of glue in 8 of 
 water, add 8 parts of shavings of white 
 soap, and, when all are dissolved, 6 of 
 powdered alum, stirring the mass con- 
 stantly. The sheets of paper may be 
 either dipped into this fluid or it is ap- 
 plied with a sponge. 
 
 Glue Resisting Wet and Moisture. 
 Soak any desired quantity of glue in 
 clean water for 11 hours, then pour the 
 water off and stir the glue into a paste. 
 On the other hand, take & part of the 
 glue used of isinglass, cut it in small 
 pieces, soak for 12 hours in ordinary 
 whiskey, and then rub it into a paste. 
 Place an earthen pot on the fire and 
 put in gradually portions of the glue 
 and of the isinglass ; stir constantly, add 
 a few drops of linseed oil varnish, strain 
 through a clean cloth, and put the glue 
 in bottles for future use. 
 
 New Liquid Glue. This glue, which 
 can be used for joining together all 
 imaginable articles, even porcelain, 
 glass, mother-of-pearl, etc., is prepared 
 as follows : Pour 8 parts of water over 
 3 of glue cut in small pieces, and let it 
 stand for a few hours. Then add i part 
 of hydrochloric acid gas and f part of 
 sulphate of zinc, and expose the mixt- 
 ure to a temperature of 175 to 190 F. 
 for 10 to 12 hours. Tlie glue does not 
 again congeal, and if necessary can be 
 still further clarified by allowing it to 
 settle and then, filtering. 
 
 Bone Glue is manufactured from 
 bones comminuted to the size of peas, 
 or from waste in the manufacture of 
 bone flour. The material is first moist- 
 ened with a solution of oxalic acid in 
 water, then piled in heaps and left to 
 itself, whereby spontaneous heating 
 takes place. It is then steamed in a 
 glue boiler, the manhole being left 
 open during the process. When the 
 ammoniacal combinations have been 
 expelled the material is subjected to a 
 pressure of 2 to 3 atmospheres, and boil- 
 ing water pumped in from time to time 
 in order to completely dissolve the gel- 
 atine. The concentrated solution of 
 glue, containing from 25 to 30 per cent, 
 of dry substance, is finally pressed into 
 a wooden vat, where it can be further 
 concentrated, if necessary, by heating a 
 
GLUE, MANUFACTURE OF. 
 
 155 
 
 ^team-pipe. The whole process re- 
 quires from 5 to 6 hours. 
 
 Dupasquier's Process of Preparing 
 Bone Glue as a Substitute for Isinglass. 
 Selecting and Bleaching the Bones. Re- 
 move all decayed and spongy parts of 
 the bones and boil the sound portions 
 for 1 hour to remove the fleshy and for- 
 eign substances. Potash lye is added 
 near the end of the boiling to effectually 
 clean the bones of fat. This lye con- 
 sists of 1 pound each of potash and 
 lime to every 100 pounds of bones. 
 After remaining in the lye for 2 hours 
 the bones are placed in baskets and set 
 in running water to wash off the potash 
 and foreign substances. 
 
 Comminuting the Bones. Remove 
 the bones from the baskets, dry, and 
 grind them in a power mill. The mill 
 used by the inventor is 6i feet in diam- 
 eter and driven by horse-power, a strong 
 horse being able to crush 150 pounds of 
 bones to the size of beans in an hour. 
 But it is better to grind the bones in an 
 ordinary flour-mill, as the smaller the 
 particles are the better the acid acts 
 upon them. 
 
 Immersing the Comminuted Bones in 
 Hydrochloric Acid. The bone-dust is 
 divided into 2 parts by sifting in a cyl- 
 inder sieve. One part will be impal- 
 pable powder, while the other will be 
 about as coarse as snuff. The reason 
 for this division of the bone flour is that 
 experience has taught that less acid is 
 required for the fine powder than for 
 the coarse. The following are the pro- 
 portions : For every 100 parts of fine 
 powder take 25 of hydrochloric acid 
 and 75 of water ; for 100 parts of coarse 
 powder 50 of hydrochloric acid and 75 
 of water. The process is as follows: 
 Pour the mentioned proportion of water 
 over the bone flour in a large vat of 
 white wood, and stir with a wooden 
 shovel until every particle of flour is 
 thoroughly moistened. Let it stand for 
 1 hour, then add of the mentioned 
 proportion of acid, and, in intervals of 
 1 hour, the other . Let the acid act 
 for 12 hours, stirring the mixture every 
 hour with wooden shovels. Then draw 
 off the liquor which contains hydrochlo- 
 rate of lime, free phosphoric acid, and 
 a certain quantity of free hydrochloric 
 acid. The residue is filled into bags of 
 a loose material and placed in running 
 
 water for 24 hours. The bags are then 
 shaken in running water until, on 
 taking a sample from the bag and plac- 
 ing it upon the tongue, no acid or any 
 other taste is perceived. The bone-dust 
 is now brought into a boiler with a her- 
 metically fitting cover and 200 parts of 
 water added to every 150 parts of bone 
 flour weighed before immersion. The 
 
 Fig. 23. 
 
 whole is now boiled until all gelatine 
 is entirely dissolved, which may be 
 recognized by the sediment on the bot- 
 tom becoming pasty and containing no 
 particles offering resistance to pressure 
 with the finger. Fig. 23 represents the 
 
 Fig. 24. 
 
 form of boiler used for the operation. 
 The liquor is then dravvn off and filtered 
 through a bag, the residue pressed out^ 
 
156 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 and the liquor obtained thereby added 
 to the first. 
 
 J&leacking. Pour the liquor into a 
 tall barrel (Fig. 24) and introduce a 
 very vigorous current of sulphurous 
 gas produced by decomposing sulphuric 
 acid by charcoal. By the action of this 
 acid the dark color of the liquor is con- 
 verted into a bluish-white resembling 
 that of a solution of good isinglass. Let 
 the liquor settle and then draw it off 
 through a faucet placed 3 inches above 
 the bottom of the barrel. 
 
 Pouring the Gelatine into Moulds. 
 The liquor is carried in wooden buck- 
 ets to another room where the moulds 
 are arranged. They are made of white 
 pine, are 5 feet long and 1J feet wide, 
 and stand in a horizontal position along- 
 side each other upon a wooden frame. 
 Around the edge they are provided 
 with a rim 14 inches high. They are 
 painted with a coat of drying oil and 
 white lead. The liquor is poured I inch 
 deep in them. A gelatine of firm con- 
 sistency is soon formed, which is lifted 
 out with wooden knives and laid upon 
 loosely-woven cloths stretched out in a 
 room through which a strong current 
 of air passes. It remains here for 6 to 
 10 days, when it is sufficiently dry to be 
 packed. 
 
 Isinglass (Fish Glue}. Genuine isin- 
 glass is yellowish-white or grayish-yel- 
 low to brown, transparent, very tough 
 and flexible, can be easily torn only in 
 the direction of the grain, has no taste 
 or odor, and when chewed it becomes 
 sticky. A solution of 1 part of isin- 
 glass in 50 of warm water is colorless 
 and cools to a jelly. It consists of : 
 
 Animal glue 70 per cent. 
 
 Qsniazome 16 " 
 
 "Water 7.5 " 
 
 Insoluble particles of skin . . 2.5 " 
 Acid and salts of soda, potash, 
 
 and lime 4 " 
 
 100 " 
 
 It is principally manufactured in 
 Russia from the bladders of the stur- 
 geon and other fishes belonging to the 
 same family. The bladders, after being 
 placed in hot water, are cut open, 
 washed, and exposed to the air with the 
 inner, silvery skin upward. This is 
 then removed by rubbing, placed in 
 moistened cloths, pressed, and then 
 
 taken from the cloth and laid either in 
 serpentine windings between 3 small 
 blocks or placed together in sheets like 
 a book and dried. 
 
 Printers' Hollers from Glue and Glyc- 
 erine. Let good cabinet-makers' glue 
 stand with water until a jelly has been 
 ! formed, heat this in a water-bath, and, 
 when melted, add as much glycerine as 
 glue, stir, and then heat carefully until 
 the water is evaporated. The product 
 is an elastic substance well adapted for 
 printers' rollers, moulds for galvano- 
 plastic purposes, etc. 
 
 Another process is as follows: Clean 
 waste of skins by soaking in water for 
 several days, then cut them in small 
 pieces and cover them with glycerine. 
 Boil the whole for some time at 212 to 
 235 F. \Vhen all the waste is dissolved 
 pour the solution into another vessel, 
 and, when cold, pour into moulds. 
 
 Birdlime is a thick, soft, tough, and 
 sticky mass of a greenish color, has an 
 unpleasant smell and bitter taste, melts 
 easily on heating, and hardens when 
 exposed in thin layers to the air. It is 
 difficult to dissolve in spirit of wine, but 
 easily in hot alcohol,*oil of turpentine, 
 and fat oils, and also somewhat in vin- 
 egar. The best quality is prepared from, 
 the inner green bark of the holly (Ilex 
 aquifolium), which is boiled, then put 
 in barrels, and submitted for 14 days to 
 slight fermentation until it becomes 
 sticky. Another process of preparing 
 it is to mix the boiled bark with juice 
 of mistletoe berries and burying it in 
 the ground until fermented. The bark 
 is then pulverized, boiled, and washed. 
 Artificial birdlime is prepared by boil- 
 ing and then igniting linseed oil, or 
 boiling printing varnish until it is very 
 tough and sticky. It is further pre-' 
 pared by dissolving cabinet-makers* 
 glue in water and adding a concentrated 
 solution of chloride of zinc. The mixt- 
 ure is very sticky, does not dry on ex- 
 posure to the air, and has the advantage 
 that it can be easily washed off the 
 feathers of the birds. 
 
 The following mixtures give a good 
 fly glue : 
 
 I. Melt together 6 parts of colophony, 
 4 of rapeseed oil, and 3 of rosin. 
 
 II. Eight parts of rosin, 4 each of 
 turpentine and rapeseed oil, and i of 
 honey. 
 
HOUSEHOLD AND RURAL ECONOMY. 
 
 157 
 
 III. Boil to a thick paste 1 pound of 
 rosin and 3i ounces each of molasses 
 and linseed oil. Apply either of the 
 above mixtures to a thick stick and 
 plant it in a pot filled with sand. 
 
 HOUSEHOLD AND RURAL ECONOMY. 
 
 How to Construct a Table Fountain. 
 To a glass tube about 2 feet long is fused 
 a glass funnel capable of holding about 
 i cubic inch of fluid. The lower end 
 of the tube passes through a perforated 
 cork into a wide-necked bottle about 4 
 inches high. A glass tube a few inches 
 long and running somewhat to a point 
 (Fig. 25) is inserted in a perforated cork 
 in another neck of the same bottle. 
 
 Fig. 25. 
 
 Sufficient water to entirely fill the bot- 
 tle is now poured through the funnel 
 tube, this being also filled up to the rim 
 of the funnel, while the aperture of the 
 short tube is closed by placing a finger 
 over it. As soon as the finger is re- 
 moved a jet of water will spurt from the 
 small tube, a constant supply being 
 kept up from an urn or basin provided 
 with a cock and standing over the fun- 
 nel. By a suitable arrangement of 
 flowers upon the table it is easy to con- 
 ceal the bottle as well as the funnel 
 tube and water urn. 
 Pine Leaves or "Needles" may be 
 
 I made a very suitable substitute for hair, 
 feathers, etc., for upholstery purposes, 
 by boiling them with lime, soda, pot- 
 ash, or similar chemicals until reduced 
 to a fibrous state. One of the advan- 
 tages claimed for this material is that it 
 is an effectual repellant of moths, bed- 
 bugs, fleas, and other insect pests. 
 
 To Keep Milk from Soiiriny, and to 
 retard the separation of cream, add a 
 small quantity of boracic acid to it. By 
 this means it can be kept for several 
 days. 
 
 Mass for Artificial Flowers and 
 Fruits is prepared from bread crumbs, 
 magnesia, and finely- powdered starch, 
 which, as soon as it is fermented, can 
 be formed and colored to any desired 
 pattern. 
 
 Iiidigo-carmine, saffron, or the various 
 lakes are used as coloring substances, 
 and as a varnish a solution of gamboge 
 in alcohol. 
 
 Simple Process for Preparing Potato 
 Flour. Boil the potatoes and then 
 allow them to freeze, which will facil- 
 itate the pressing out of the water and 
 drying of the substance of the potato. 
 
 Roasted Malt as a Substitute for 
 Coffee. Mix 2 parts of ground malt, 1 of 
 ground coffee, and 1 of chicory ; or use 
 equal parts of coffee and chicory or 
 malt. When boiled in water, or steeped 
 in boiling water, these mixtures furnish 
 a nourishing beverage of agreeable taste 
 and flavor. 
 
 Lemonade Powder. Rub together 1 
 drachm of tartaric acid and 1# ounces 
 of sugar with 3 drops of oil of lemon. 
 Lemonade prepared with this powder is 
 refreshing, cooling, and wholesome. 
 
 II. Mix li pounds of sugar, 5 ounces 
 of oil of lemon, and i ounce of crystal- 
 lized tartaric acid. Preserve the pow- 
 der in glass bottles hermetically closed. 
 
 Champagne Powder. To convert any 
 wine, at a moment's notice, into cham- 
 
 Eagne, take 30 grains of dry, pulverized 
 icarbonate of sodium, 23 grains of dry. 
 powdered tartaric acid, and 2 ounces of 
 pulverized sugar. Put the powder into 
 a strong champagne bottle containing 
 the wine and cork immediately. Then 
 turn the bottle up and the champagne 
 will be ready in one minute. 
 
 Champagne Mixture. Add to 5 quarts 
 of must wine 1 pound of white sugar. 
 and a little alcohol. One /jk.ss of this 
 
158 
 
 TECIINO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 mixture will convert any young wine 
 into champagne. 
 
 Currant Cliampagne. Boil pure cur- 
 rant juice to the consistency of syrup 
 and preserve in well-corked bottles. 
 When to be used add a cupful of this 
 syrup to i gallon of French wine and 
 stir the mixture thoroughly. 
 
 English Champagne. To 10 pounds 
 of gooseberry juice add 5 quarts of water 
 and allow it to stand for 3 days ; then 
 press out and add 3 pounds of sugar 
 and let it stand for 5 or 6 weeks, with 
 occasional skimming, and add a small 
 quantity of brandy and fill into bot- 
 tles. 
 
 Fruit Champagne. Peel and grate 
 juicy pears and press out the juice, 
 which pour into a cask and cover the 
 bung-hole with a linen cloth, and let 
 the cask stand in a moderately warm 
 room. Fermentation will begin in a 
 few days, when the scum must be care- 
 fully removed. When the scum ceases, 
 fill the cask with clear fermented pear 
 juice (which has been fermented in a 
 closely-corked bottle) and allow the 
 cask to rest for 5 or 6 weeks in a cellar. 
 Put a faucet in the cask about 4 inches 
 above the chime, and draw the wine off 
 into bottles and secure their corks with 
 wire covered with pitch or wax. In 
 about 2 weeks the wine will be fit for 
 use, closely resembling champagne. It 
 improves with age. 
 
 FRUIT WINES. Apple Wine (Cider}. 
 English Process. Store the apples for 
 10 to 14 days in an open shed and care- 
 fully reject the rotten ones. Then macer- 
 ate the sound apples, enclose the pulp 
 in a hair cloth, and place under a press, 
 from which the juice is conveyed into 
 barrels. If the apples are pressed with- 
 out the hair cloth the bung-holes of the 
 barrels must be covered with a brick 
 until spring. The juice is then racked 
 off into other barrels and pound of 
 hops and some burnt sugar are added 
 and the bung-holes closed. The wine 
 will not be fit to drink before a year. 
 
 Apple Wine (Normandy Process]. 
 The apples are crushed and pressed in 
 the usual manner and the juice con- 
 veyed into barrels ; but instead of allow- 
 ing fermentation to take its course the 
 juice, as soon as fermentation has com- 
 menced, is poured into other barrels, 
 and again into others as soon as fer- 
 
 mentation recommences. This is gen 
 erally done 3 times. 
 
 The scum and precipitation of the 3 
 fermentations are then placed in wool- 
 len bags and suspended over a vat. 
 The very clear apple wine draining 
 from them is added to the rest. This 
 wine has a very agreeable taste and can 
 be kept for a long time. 
 
 Apple Champagne (Champagne Ci- 
 der). To a champagne bottle full of 
 apple wine take 2 to 3 ounces of sugar, 
 dissolve it in the wine, add as quickly 
 as possible f ounce of finely-powdered 
 tartaric acid and 1 drachm of finely- 
 powdered bicarbonate of sodium, cork 
 the bottle, secure the cork with wire, 
 and let it lie for 8 days, when the cham- 
 
 13irch Wine. Bore holes in birch 
 trees in the spring before the leaves ap- 
 pear and insert tubes to drain off the 
 sap or juice. Branches of elder bush 
 are often used for tubes. Large trees 
 can be tapped in several places without 
 injury. If a sufficient quantity of juice 
 is not obtained in 1 day, it should be 
 kept in bottles hermetically closed by 
 covering the cork with wax or pitch. 
 
 Boil the juice, after a sufficient quan- 
 tity has been collected, and carefully 
 remove the scum as it arises. Then add 
 4 pounds of sugar and the rind of 1 
 lemon to every gallon of juice, and boil 
 for i hour longer, carefully removing 
 the scum. When cold the juice is fer- 
 mented by adding yeast spread upon 
 toasted bread, and is then allowed to 
 stand for 5 to 6 days, being stirred oc- 
 casionally. Now take a clean barrel 
 holding exactly the quantity of wine 
 prepared, suspend in it a piece of ignited 
 sulphur, close the bung until the sul- 
 phur is extinguished, and then bring 
 the wine into the barrel. As long as 
 fermentation continues the bung is 
 placed loosely in the bung-hole. When 
 fermentation ceases the bung is driven 
 in tight and the barrel allowed to lie 
 for 3 months, when the wine is drawn 
 into bottles. 
 
 Blackberry Wine. Cover ripe black- 
 berries with boiling water in an earthen 
 or wooden.vessel and, when cool enough 
 to admit the hand, crush the blackber- 
 ries; cover the vessel and allow it to 
 stand until the berries are forced to the 
 top, requiring generally 2 or 3 days. 
 
HOUSEHOLD AND RURAL ECONOMY. 
 
 The clear juice is then drawn off into a 
 similar vessel and 1 pound of sugar 
 added to every 3 gallons of fluid, when 
 the whole is thoroughly stirred together 
 and allowed to stand for 8 to 10 days. 
 The wine is then filtered through a bag 
 into a capacious vessel. The ne*t morn- 
 ing 4 ounces of isinglass, previously 
 soaked for 12 hours, are slowly boiled 
 in 1 pint of white wine. When all is 
 dissolved the above quantity is added 
 to every gallon of the wine, the whole 
 allowed to boil up once, and then 
 poured into a cask. 
 
 Cherry Wine. Free perfectly ripe 
 cherries from the stems, crush, and 
 press them through a hair sieve. Then 
 add to every gallon of juice 2 pounds 
 of sugar and place it in a vessel just 
 large enough to be entirely filled with 
 it. When fermentation 'has run its 
 course and no noise can be detected in 
 the barrel, drive in the bung and allow 
 the barrel to lay for 3 months, and then 
 fill the wine into bottles. 
 
 Currant Wine. To every gallon of 
 currant juice add 1 pound of sugar. 
 When the sugar is dissolved put the 
 juice in a cask, which should be en- 
 tirely filled with it. Put this in a cellar 
 until fermentation has run its course, 
 then fill it up with juice previously 
 fermented and close the bunghole. 
 The wine remains in this barrel for 6 
 months, when it is drawn off into an- 
 other barrel or into bottles. 
 
 Another Receipt. A beverage re- 
 sembling Madeira wine is obtained by 
 using equal parts of gooseberry and 
 currant juice, dissolving in it 1 pound 
 of sugar for every gallon of juice, and 
 allowing the whole to ferment. The 
 clear wine is then drawn ofi into an- 
 other barrel and 1 pint of French brandy 
 added to every gallon of it, when the 
 bunghole is closed as tight as possible 
 and the barrel allowed to lie in a cellar 
 for 5 to 6 months, when the wine is 
 drawn off into bottles. 
 
 Damson Wine. Ten pounds of dam- 
 sons, when quite ripe, are crushed and 
 boiled in li gallons of water. Then 
 press out the juice, add 3 pounds of 
 sugar, let it ferment in a barrel, and 
 add, after a fortnight, a little good 
 brandy to it, when it will be fit to fill 
 in bottles. 
 
 Elderberry Wine. Remove the stems 
 
 from 100 pounds of elderberries, crush 
 and boil them ; then add 50 pounds of 
 sugar, 2 pounds of cream of tartar, and 
 35 gallons of water, and let the mixture 
 ferment. By adding a little ginger, 
 cloves, raisins, and yeast, it will yield 
 at the termination of the fermentation a 
 wine similar to Cyprus wine. 
 
 Ginger Wine. Add 20 pounds of 
 sugar to 12 gallons of water and boil to 
 a syrup. Then boil in a separate vessel 
 1 pound of white Jamaica ginger in 2i 
 gallons of water and add, while boiling, 
 a few lemon peels. Then mix both 
 liquids, add a little yeast and 4 pounds 
 of seeded raisins. Let it ferment for 
 several weeks, and then add 1 pound of 
 tartaric acid and 2 gallons of elderberry 
 juice. 
 
 Honey Wine. To 2 pounds of honey 
 add 1 gallon of water. Boil the mixt- 
 ure for 1 hour, continually skimming 
 it; then add some yeast and let the 
 liquid ferment, hanging into the barrel 
 a bag containing bruised spices, such 
 as coriander seeds, cloves, ginger, and 
 calamus, of each 1 ounce. The fer- 
 mented liquor will be clear after 1 
 month, when it can be drawn into bot- 
 tles. 
 
 Orange Wine. Boil 40 pounds of 
 sugar for i hour with 13J gallons of 
 water. At the same time press out and 
 filter the juice of 75 oranges and mix it, 
 together with the rinds, with the sugary 
 fluid after the latter has been cooled off 
 to about 85 F. The mixture is then 
 poured into a cask and frequently stirred 
 during 3 or 4 days, when the cask is 
 bunged and placed in a cellar for 6 
 months, when the wine is drawn off. 
 
 Orange Wine with Lemon. Dissolve 
 6\ pounds of sugar in 1 gallons of 
 water at a temperature about 105 F. 
 Add to this the juice of 5 good lemons 
 and 3 table-spoonfuls of beer yeast, and 
 let the mixture ferment for 48 hours. 
 In the meanwhile grate the rinds of the 
 lemons and those of 25 oranges upon 
 1 pound of loaf sugar, add this to the 
 fermenting liquid and immediately 
 afterwards the juice of the 25 oranges, 
 and then let the whole ferment for 48 
 hours longer. Then pour the fluid into 
 a cask, add 1 pint of wine, bung the 
 cask, and let it lie for 6 months, when 
 the wine can be drawn off into bottles. 
 Wine. To 6i pounds of 
 
IfiO 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL HECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 raisins add 20 pounds of water, 2 pound 
 of sugar, 8J ounces of cream of tartar, 
 and sufficient yeast to bring the mass 
 into fermentation. If the wine is to be 
 consumed at ouce it is not necessary to 
 add yeast. 
 
 A nother Receipt* Pour 30 gallons of 
 ordiuary wine over 20 pounds of raisins 
 previously picked over, freed from stems 
 and stoned, and stir the mass thoroughly. 
 Next prepare a solution of 8| pounds of 
 fine loaf sugar in 1 gallon of water by 
 boiling, and when this is cold add it 
 to the raisins and wine ; then add a 
 saturated solution of i ounce of bicar- 
 bonate of potassium and immediately 
 afterwards a solution of i ounce of tar- 
 taric acid in a little water. Bung the 
 cask loosely, shake it thoroughly, place 
 it in a moderately warm place, and then 
 remove the bung. After 4 weeks add 
 4i pounds of loaf sugar and a like 
 quantity after 6 weeks. Fermentation 
 will cease iu 8 to 10 weeks. The wine 
 can then be fined with gelatine, isin- 
 glass, or white of egg, and drawn off 
 into bottles. It has an agreeable taste 
 resembling very much that of Spanish 
 wine. 
 
 Raspberry Wine. Crush the berries 
 with a spoon and filter the juice through 
 flannel into an earthen pot. To each 
 quart of the juice add 1 pound of fine 
 sugar, stir the mass thoroughly, and let 
 it stand for 3 days. Then pour off the 
 clear fluid, add to every quart of iuice 
 2i gallons of white wine, and fill the 
 liquor in bottles. The wine can be used 
 in 6 to 8 days. 
 
 Remedy for Warts. Mix 1 part of 
 carbonate of potassium, 1 of burned lime, 
 and 2 of soap. Stir the mixture into a 
 thick paste with a sufficient quantity 
 of spirit of wine, and apply this to the 
 warts. This should be done very care- 
 fully, so that the caustic mass does not 
 touch the healthy skin of the hand. 
 
 Remedy for Chilblains. Apply tan- 
 nin, which will adhere to the respective 
 parts of the body by gently breathing 
 upon the skin. This is an excellent 
 remedy, frequently preventing the ap- 
 pearance of chilblains if used in time, 
 and does not disturb the transpiration 
 of the hand. 
 
 Remedy for Corns. Mix drachm 
 of salicylic acid, 8 grains of extract of 
 Indian hem]), and Bounce of collodion. 
 
 Apply once a day to the hard skin by 
 means of a small brush. The skin con- 
 tracts to a horn-like crust and becomes 
 detached from the parts underneath it, 
 so that it can be easily removed with- 
 out the slightest pain. 
 
 Ginger Beer. To 3 gallons of water 
 add 4i ounces of bruised ginger root, 2 
 ounces of cream of tartar, and 4J 
 pounds of sugar. Boil for a few min- 
 utes, and after cooling add about 1 
 table-spoonful of fresh yeast. Cover 
 up the vessel with a thick flannel cloth 
 and let it stand over night. Then add 
 a little essence of lemon, strain it, put 
 the fluid in clean bottles, and secure the 
 corks with twine or wire. The beer 
 will be fit to drink after standing 4 days. 
 
 English Ginger Beer, Boil 3 ounces 
 of pulverized ginger, 2 ounces of cream 
 of tartar, and 2 pounds of sugar with 
 li gallons of water. When cold add a 
 table-spoonful of yeast to the fluid, let 
 it stand over night, then filter, and 
 draw into bottles which should be well 
 corked. 
 
 Spruce Beer, Put into a common 
 soda bottle about 30 grains of bicar- 
 bonate of sodium, 10 drops of essence 
 of spruce, and about 30 grains of crys- 
 tallized tartaric acid. Fill the bottle 
 quickly with spring water, cork, and 
 secure the cork with twine or wire. 
 
 Another Receipt. Comminute the 
 young sprouts of the spruce tree, then 
 boil them with water until they turn 
 yellow and the bark peels off easily. 
 Add some toasted bread and malt, let 
 the fluid ferment in the ordinary man- 
 ner, and bottle. The proportions of the 
 materials used are as follows: Ten 
 gallons of water, If quarts of young 
 spruce sprouts, i pint of syrup (or, 
 instead of the syrup, 1 pint of malt 
 or | pint of carrots), and some toasted 
 bread and yeast. 
 
 English Spruce Beer. Comminute 
 the young spruce sprouts, press out the 
 juice, and boil it down to the consist- 
 ency of syrup. Pvt the syrup in well- 
 closed bottles, wh- re in the course of 
 time it will lose all taste of resin. 
 When it is to be used dilute the neces- 
 sary quantity with water and ferment 
 with yeast. 
 
 Root Beer is prepared by boiling 
 various roots, such as sarsaparilla, 
 comfrey, licorice root, and sassafras 
 
HOUSEHOLD AND RURAL ECONOMY. 
 
 161 
 
 blossoms and bark, in the same manner 
 as giveu for ginger beer. Then add 1 
 p.mnd of sugar to every gallon of the 
 decoction, and when the sugar is dis- 
 solved add 1 table-spoonful of yeast 
 to the same quantity of liquid, let it 
 ferment over night, and the following 
 dav the beer will be tit for drinking. 
 
 To Prepare Fly Paper. Thoroughly 
 saturate stout unsized paper with a 
 solution of 1 part of arseniaty of potas- 
 sium or arseniate of sodium and 2 of 
 white sugar in 20 parts of water, and 
 then dry it. When the paper is to be 
 used moisten it with some water and 
 place it in saucers. It is advisable to 
 be very careful with this paper as it is 
 poisonous. 
 
 Fly Paper Free from Poison. Pour 
 i gallon of water over 1 pound of quas- 
 sia wood and let it stand over night, 
 th'jn boil the strained fluid down to 1 
 quart. The wood is again boiled with 
 
 1 quart of water until 1 pint remains, 
 when the 2 infusions are mixed to- 
 gether and i to I pound of sugar dis- 
 solved in it. Pass the paper through 
 this fluid, let it drain off, and hang it 
 up to dry. Red blotting-paper is gen- 
 erally used. 
 
 Persian Insect Powder is prepared 
 from the leaves and blossoms of Pyre- 
 t'nniin, caucasicum. An alcoholic ex- 
 tract can also be prepared by digesting 
 
 2 parts of the powder with 12 of spirit 
 of wine for 8 days and then pressing 
 and filtering. 
 
 To Destroy Insects and Worms In- 
 festing Wall Paper, etc. Mix 2 pounds 
 of starch paste with 1 ounce of finely- 
 pulverized colocynth. 
 
 To Preserve Animal Skins. Wicke 
 recommends to pulverize sulphate of 
 copper as finely as possible and to stir 
 the powder into a paste with water. 
 The flesh side of the skin is brushed 
 with this as quickly as possible, in 
 order to prevent evaporation of the 
 water. The paste permeates the skins 
 in a short time, securing them against 
 all attacks by insects. 
 
 According to another receipt 1 part 
 of sulphate of copper is mixed with 2 
 of alum. This mixture forms insoluble 
 combinations with the organic tissues. 
 
 To Preserve. Stuffed Animals. Mix 
 2 parts of air-slaked lime, sifted through 
 a fine sieve, and 1 part of sifted tobacco 
 11 
 
 ashes, with i part of alum. Rub the 
 mixture thoroughly into the flesh side 
 of the skins to be stuffed. 
 
 A nother Receipt. Pulverize and mix 
 1 ounce of sal-ammoniac, i ounce of 
 burned alum, 3 ounces of tobacco 
 ashes, and 25 ounces of aloes, and pro- 
 ceed as above. 
 
 A nother Receipt. Pulverize and mix 
 thoroughly 1 part of cobalt and 2 of 
 alum, and rub the mixture thoroughly 
 into the flesh side of the skin previously 
 brushed with pine oil. 
 
 The following receipts are principally 
 used for skins of mammalia : 
 
 I. Boil part of alum and i part of 
 pulverized cobalt in 4 parts of water; 
 strain the fluid and brush it over both 
 sides of the skin. 
 
 II. Dissolve i part of tar formed from 
 the grease on the iron axle of a wagon 
 in 1 part of strong soap-boilers lye, and 
 coat the flesh side of the skin uniformly 
 with the resulting thick paste. 
 
 To Destroy Insects Infesting Her- 
 baria, and Collections of Insects. Weiss 
 recommends a solution of corrosive 
 sublimate in sulphuric ether. 
 
 To Protect Woollen Goods and Furs. 
 Fumigation with sal-ammoniac and 
 also laying stems of wormwood and 
 blooming hearts clover between the 
 articles have been proposed as excellent 
 remedies for destroying moths. Dust- 
 ing the articles with pulverized sulphate 
 of iron is said to be good for keeping 
 away moths. 
 
 Formerly a mixture was used consist- 
 ing of 4 parts of oil of lavender, 4 of 
 ethereal oil of wormwood, and 1 of oil 
 of turpentine, well shaken together. 
 Strips of blotting-paper were soaked in 
 the mixture and placed in the pockets 
 or seams of the clothes. 
 
 Hager recommends the following 
 mixtures : 
 
 I. For Cloth. One and a half fluid 
 ounces of pure carbolic acid, 2 fluid 
 drachms each of oil of cloves, lemon 
 peel, and nitro-benzple, dissolved in i 
 gallon of spirit of wine. 
 
 II. For Furs. Six fluid drachms of 
 pure carbolic acid, 3 fluid drachms each 
 
 if oil of cloves, lemon peel, and nitre- 
 benzole, dissolved in 1 quart of spirit 
 of wine. 
 
 The articles are moderately sprinkled 
 with the fluid. One sprinkling will 
 
162 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 suffice for the summer, provided they 
 are stored in closed boxes or closets, but 
 cloth in storerooms will require to be 
 sprinkled twice. 
 
 Other Receipts for Destroying Moths. 
 I. Soak blotting-paper in a mixture of 
 
 phorus in 1 gallon of hot water and 
 add 10 pounds of corn meal ; then rub 
 up gradually and add 10 pounds of 
 butter and 5 pounds of sugar. 
 
 To Destroy Field Rats and Mice. 
 Take equal parts of burnt lime, pow- 
 
 equal parts of oil of camphor and spirits j dered cicuta, calcined plaster of Paris, 
 of turpentine, and lay the paper among \ powdered hellebore, and oil of anise- 
 the clothing or furs. j seed. Mix and form into small pill 
 
 II. Use a mixture of alum, cayenne 
 pepper, oil of camphor, and calcined 
 plaster of Paris. 
 
 For the Destruction of Bedbugs and 
 other Insects. According to Hirzel, 
 watery sulphurous acid is an excellent 
 agent for destroying bedbugs and their 
 eggs, as well as other noxious insects. 
 It is sufficient to sprinkle a few drops 
 of the acid upon the places or into the 
 joints and holes infested by the insects, 
 and to repeat this several times. 
 
 Wild thyme is also an infallible 
 means of destroying bedbugs. Lay it 
 in the beds and corners of the room, and 
 then close the doors and windows. It 
 is advisable to heat the room in winter. 
 In 48 hours all traces of bedbugs will 
 have disappeared. 
 
 For the Destruction of Fleas on Dogs, 
 Horses, and Cattle. Take equal parts 
 of beef gall, oil of camphor, oil of penny- 
 royal, extract of gentian, and spirits of 
 wine. 
 
 To Destroy Cockroaches. Mix equal 
 parts of Persian insect powder and 
 powdered Levantic wormseed, and scat- 
 ter the mixture about the places which 
 the cockroaches frequent. 
 
 To Destroy Mosquitoes and Gnats. 
 A solution of beefs gall in spirits of 
 camphor and spirits of turpentine does 
 
 and scatter them about the places the 
 mice and rats frequent. 
 
 London Purple for the Destruction 
 of Insects. London purple, which is a 
 waste product of the fabrication of rosan- 
 iline, comes into commerce as a fine 
 powder of a violet color. It is soluble 
 in water, and is composed of: 
 
 Rosaniline 12.46 per cent. 
 
 Arsi-nious acid 43.65 " 
 
 Calcium oxide 21.82 " 
 
 Impurities 14.57 " 
 
 Ferric oxide 1.16 " 
 
 Water 2.27 " 
 
 Loss 4.07 " 
 
 Prof. C. V. Riley, of Washington, 
 recommends this substance as a means 
 of destroying insects, especially the po- 
 tato bug, army worm, cotton worm, 
 locusts, and caterpillar. It has the ad- 
 vantage of being cheaper than Paris 
 
 green, 
 
 which has been almost exclu- 
 
 excellent service. 
 
 To Drive away Ants from Closets, 
 Pantries, etc. Chalk the shelves upon 
 which the provisions are put; or apply 
 
 sively used thus far, and of being easily 
 detected by its peculiar color, while 
 Paris green cannot be detected upon 
 plants, this haying frequently caused 
 poisoning. It is claimed that, if suffi- 
 ciently diluted, it is entirely harmless 
 if applied to vegetables.* Eight ounces 
 of the London purple are sufficient for 
 about 50 gallons of water. The retail 
 
 price per pound may be given as from 
 8 to 12 cents. 
 
 Hager's Universal Composition for 
 the Destruction of Vermin is prepared 
 as follows: Pulverize and mix 100 
 
 pantry : or soak brckd^Ste in'til^ I P a of Sumatra ^ benzoin 50 of aloes, 
 ure of quassia, and lay them about the ! and , 25 f an inferior quality of salicylic 
 c j oset M j acid ; then pour over the powder 50 
 
 Rats will be completely driven away \ P arts f inferior oil of lavender (from 
 om any buUdin<i\*v smearing the rat i Lavandula vpica), 10 of badian-seed 
 
 oil, and 1000 of spirit of wine, and let 
 the whole stand for 1 day, stirring it 
 frequently. Then add 100 parts of 
 oleic acid and a solution of 60 parts of 
 
 from any building by smearing the rat 
 holes which are found near the walls, 
 in the cellar, with tar. In 24 hours 
 there will not be found a rat about the 
 house ; nor will they return while fresh 
 supplies of tar are kept about the holes. 
 Phosphorus Paste for Destroying 
 Rats and Mice. Melt 8 ounces of phos- 
 
 * We are inclined to doubt this claim fora 
 substance containing 43.65 per cent, of arsen- 
 ious acid. W. T. B. 
 
HOUSEHOLD AND RURAL ECONOMY. 
 
 163 
 
 crude caustic soda and 25 of borax in 
 500 of water. Allow the whole to stand 
 again for 1 day, stirring frequently, and 
 then add 3000 parts of crude carbolic 
 acid of 90 to 95 per cent. ; place the 
 composition in a cool place for 1 week 
 and then pour off the clear, supernatant 
 fluid. It should be carefully handled, 
 and its spurting into the eyes or upon 
 the lips must be especially avoided. 
 This direction, when prepared for sale, 
 should be printed upon the label. 
 This composition, strongly diluted with 
 water, is principally used for cattle. 
 For young animals dilute it with 120 
 times its volume of water, and for older 
 with 100 times. This is best done by 
 pouring some of the composition into a 
 capacious flask, then adding twice the 
 volume of water, and shaking vigor- 
 ously. Then pour the strongly foaming 
 liquid into a barrel or boiler and then 
 add water sufficient to dilute 100 times, 
 stirring constantly. In using, stir it 
 frequently and apply it with a brush to 
 the skin and other infected parts of the 
 animal, rubbing it thoroughly in. Avoid 
 as much as possible spurting the fluid 
 into the eyes, anus, and sexual parts. 
 To destroy the eggs of the insects re- 
 peat the operation the third day. Ani- 
 mals with white hair must the next day 
 be washed with warm water. The fol- 
 lowing are the principal advantages of 
 this composition : 1. It is the best and 
 safest means of destroying the eggs of 
 vermin infesting animals, while it is 
 entirely innoxious. 2. It is the best 
 and simplest remedy for mange in dogs 
 and scab in sheep and cattle. For 
 horses and cattle dilute the composi- 
 tion with 30 times its volume of water, 
 for sheep with 40 times, and for dogs 50 
 times its volume. Apply twice daily, 
 forenoon and afternoon, to the places 
 infected with scab or mange, and rub 
 in with a brush. If the odor of the 
 composition does not occasion any in- 
 convenience it is also, diluted with 30 
 times its volume of water, an excellent 
 remedy for itch in the human being. 
 Apply it once daily to the infected 
 parts. 3. For wounds, especially for 
 those emitting a bad smell, dip linen, 
 cotton, or lint into the composition di- 
 luted with 100 times its quantity of 
 water. For deep wounds inject the 
 fluid. 4. To protect animals from flies 
 
 and other annoying insects, moisten the 
 skin moderately with the composition, 
 strongly diluted, repeating the opera- 
 tion once or twice daily, if necessary. 
 5. The universal composition may be 
 used everywhere where the vitality of 
 insects or cryptogamous plants is to bo 
 destroyed. Seed corn is kept sound 
 and protected from birds, mice, snails, 
 etc., by soaking it, half an hour before 
 sowing, in the composition diluted with 
 40 times its volume of water, taking it 
 out of the fluid with a sieve, and allow- 
 ing it to dry in the air. 
 
 For the Destruction of Phylloxera 
 ( Vine Grub, Vine Fretter], Armand 
 Boyreau, of La Rochelle, France, rec- 
 ommends the following composition, 
 for which he has obtained a patent in 
 France and Germany : Mix 30 pounds 
 of sodium phosphate, 10 pounds of am- 
 monium phosphate, 40 pounds of sal- 
 ammoniac, 30 pounds of potassium sul- 
 phate, 50 pounds of soda, 60 pounds of 
 flowers of sulphur, and 1900 pounds of 
 sulphate of iron. The composition is 
 mixed with the soil. 
 
 Papasogli applies a mixture of 30 
 parts of nitrobenzole, 50 of sulphuric 
 acid, and 900 of water to the roots of 
 the vine. To kill the eggs on the trunk 
 he uses a paste prepared from i ounce 
 of nitrobenzole, 2 pounds of lime, and 89 
 pounds of earth. This mixture adheres 
 tightly to the trunk and is not washed 
 off by long-continued rain, the odor of 
 the nitrobenzole remaining for a long 
 time. 
 
 Simple Disinfectant. Pulverize 1 
 pound of fresh sulphate of iron of a yel- 
 lowish-green color and mix it with 1 
 pound of plaster of Paris; bring the 
 mixture into a vessel and pour over it, 
 constantly stirring, 1 gallon of rain 
 water heated to the boiling point. After 
 stirring the mixture for 2 minutes pour 
 it down the privy well or over the place 
 to be disinfected. In the meanwhile 
 place in another vessel i gallon of rain 
 water, | pint of petroleum, and pint 
 of soda water-glass, and bring the mixt- 
 ure to the boiling point. Tljen stir it 
 for 2 minutes and pour it after the first 
 mixture. 
 
 Disinfecting Powder of Max Fried- 
 rich consists, according to an analysis 
 made in the laboratory of the Chen* 
 isker Zeitung, of: 
 
164 
 
 TECHHO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK, 
 
 Sand and silica 4.30 per cent. 
 
 Ferric oxide and alumina . . 1.60 
 
 Plaster of Paris 48.13 
 
 Calcium hydrate 32.65 
 
 Chlorine 0.82 
 
 Magnesia traces. 
 
 Alkalies and carbonic acid . 0.62 
 
 Extract of ether 3.16 
 
 Naphthaline, carbolic acid, 
 
 and moisture .... 7.72 
 
 100.00 " 
 
 Efficacious Disinfectants. Sulphate 
 of aluminium and hydrochlorate of 
 aluminium are very powerful disinfect- 
 ants and antiseptics. Their solubility 
 and harmlessness render their use ad- 
 missible under all circumstances. The 
 chloride and sulphate of iron have the 
 same action as the above, and, further, 
 they absorb the sulphuretted products 
 of decomposition. For this reason these 
 salts are the most efficacious of disin- 
 fectants. But there is one objection to 
 their use, namely, that the iron would 
 injure any vegetation with which the 
 disinfected matter might come in con- 
 tact. The best disinfectant for general 
 use is a solution containing hydrochlo- 
 rate of aluminium with a small quantity 
 of chloride of iron. The hydrochlorate 
 will do all the work of a disinfectant 
 and antiseptic, while the chloride will 
 absorb the sulphuretted compounds. 
 
 To Cleanse Lacquered and Stained 
 Articles of Wood use a lye prepared 
 from 3 parts of potash and 1 of calcined 
 tartar dissolved in 24 of soft water. The 
 surface of the article to be cleansed is 
 moistened with the lye diluted with 
 water. In the course of 3 or 4 minutes 
 the adhering dirt will be loosened, when 
 the article should be thoroughly washed 
 with soft water. 
 
 It has also been recommended to 
 cleanse lacquered articles by applying 
 olive oil to the surface, dusting flour, 
 prepared buck's horn, or infants' pow- 
 der upon this, and rubbing off with a 
 soft cloth. By this not only all stains 
 and dust are removed, but the lustre of 
 the article is also restored without in- 
 jury to the colors and gilding. 
 
 To Cut and Pierce Rubber Corks. 
 This can be easily accomplished by 
 dipping the instrument used in potash 
 or soda lye. 
 
 To Protect Stone and Brick Walls 
 from Moisture. Brush the wall over 
 
 with a hot solution of | pound of Cas- 
 tile soap in 1 gallon of water; let it dry 
 for 24 hours and then apply a solution 
 of i pound of alum in 4 gallons of water. 
 
 Rosin as a Protection against Moist- 
 ure in Walls. Heat 5 parts of turpen- 
 tine and stir in 10 parts of pulverized 
 common glue and 1 part of finely-sifted 
 sawdust. Cleanse the wall and heat it 
 by means of a soldering lamp or other 
 flame, and apply the rosin composition, 
 which can be run into every crack and 
 joint by keeping the wall warm. Smooth 
 by use of a hot iron. An addition of 
 boneblack to the composition will give 
 a dark color, or if the wall is to be 
 painted a light color can be had by 
 j using light-colored rosin and woody 
 fibre. This composition is also good 
 for wood buried hi the ground or ex- 
 posed to moisture. 
 
 To Prevent Rust on Iron. Rub 1 
 ounce of graphite to a fine powder, add 
 4}: ounces of sulphate of lead, 1 ounce 
 of sulphate of zinc, and 1 pound of 
 linseed-oil varnish; heat the whole to 
 the boiling point and stir thoroughly. 
 This paint can be used for all metallic 
 articles exposed to the action of the 
 weather. 
 
 To Prevent Wooden Posts from Rot- 
 ting. I. Melt together in an iron 
 boiler 50 parts of rosin, 40 of powdered 
 chalk, and 4 of linseed oil ; then add 1 
 part of natural cupric oxide and stir 
 very carefully into the mixture 1 part 
 of sulphuric acid. Apply with a stiff 
 brush. When dry the mass forms a 
 coating as hard as' stone. 
 
 II. Melt If parts of rosin, then mix 
 with it 48 parts of fish oil and 1-V of 
 sulphur. When the mixture is thor- 
 oughly combined and liquid add suffi- 
 cient ochre, rubbed up with linseed oil, 
 to give the desired shade of color. Then 
 apply the mass, while still warm, in ;is 
 thin a coat as possible, and in a few 
 \ days, when the first coat is dry, repeat 
 I the operation. 
 
 Excellent Wash for Wood and Stone. 
 The following receipt has been thor- 
 oughly tested and found to do excellent 
 service : Slake 30 pounds of burnt lime 
 in a suitable vessel by covering it with 
 water. Dilute the resulting milk of 
 lime and add first 2 pounds of sulphate 
 of zinc and then 1 pound of common 
 salt. A beautiful cream color is 
 
HOUSEHOLD AND RURAL ECONOMY. 
 
 165 
 
 obtained by adding 3 pounds of yellow 
 ochre, pearl color by the addition of 
 some lampblack, and stone color by 
 adding 4 pounds of umber and 2 pounds 
 of lampblack. The whitewash is ap- 
 plied in the usual manner with a brush. 
 
 Brilliant Whitewash Closely Re- 
 sembling Paint. Slake bushel of 
 lime with boiling water, covering it 
 during the process to keep in the steam. 
 Strain the liquid through a fine sieve or 
 strainer, and add to it 8 quarts of salt 
 previously dissolved in warm water, 2-j 
 pounds of ground rice boiled to a thin 
 paste and stirred in boiling hot, i 
 pound of powdered Spanish whiting, 
 and 1 pound of clean glue which has 
 been previously dissolved by soaking 
 it well, and then hang the whole over 
 a slow fire in a small kettle within a 
 large one filled with water. Add 5 gal- 
 lons of hot water to the mixture, stir it 
 well, and let it stand a few days covered 
 from the dust. It should be put on 
 quite hot; lor this purpose it can be 
 kept in a boiler on a portable furnace. 
 It answers as well as oil paint for 
 wood, brick, or stone, and is cheaper. 
 It retains its brilliancy for many years. 
 Colored matter, with the exception of 
 green, may be put in it and made of 
 any desired shade. 
 
 'Utilization of Chicken Feathers. 
 Cut the plume portions of the 
 feathers from the stem. The former 
 are then placed in quantities in a 
 coarse bag, which, when quite full, is 
 closed and subjected to a thorough 
 kneading with the hands. At the end 
 of five minutes the feathers become dis- 
 aggregated and felted together, forming 
 a down perfectly homogeneous and of 
 great lightness. It is even lighter than 
 natural eider down, because the latter 
 contains the ribs of the feathers, which 
 give extra weight. The material thus 
 prepared is worth and readily sells in 
 Paris for about 20 francs ($4.00) a 
 kilogramme (2.2 pounds). About 1 
 ounces of this down can be obtained 
 from an ordinary-sized chicken. 
 Through the winter children can col- 
 lect all the feathers about a farm and 
 cut the ribs out as has been stated. By 
 spring time a large quantity of down 
 could be prepared, which could be 
 sold to upholsterers or employed for 
 domestic uses. Goose and turkey 
 
 feathers may be treated and utilized in 
 the same manner. 
 
 The chicken down forms a beautiful 
 cloth when woven. For about a square 
 yard of the material about 1 pounds of 
 down are required. The fabric is said to 
 be almost indestructible, as, in place of 
 fraying or wearing out at folds, it seems 
 to telt the tighter. It takes dye readily 
 and is thoroughly water-proof. 
 
 Preservation of Wooden Labels. 
 Wooden labels that are to be used on 
 trees or in exposed places may be pre- 
 served by the following process : Thor- 
 oughly soak the pieces of wood in a 
 strong solution of sulphate of iron ; then 
 lay them, after they are dry, in lime- 
 water. This causes the formation of 
 sul] >hate of lime, a very insoluble salt, 
 in the wood. The rapid destruction of 
 the labels by the weather is thus pre- 
 vented. Bast, mats, twine, and other 
 substances used in tying or covering up 
 trees and plants can be treated and 
 preserved in the same manner. 
 
 Collodion for Plant Slips. Dip the 
 end of the plant slips in collodion before 
 setting them out. The collodion should 
 contain twice as much of cotton as 
 the ordinary article used in photog- 
 raphy. Let the first coat dry and then 
 dip again. After planting the slips the 
 roots will develop very rapidly. This 
 method is especially efficacious with 
 woody slips, as geraniums, fuchsias, and 
 similar plants. 
 
 To Destroy Stumps of Trees. In the 
 autumn bore in the centre of the stump 
 a vertical hole of 1 to 1 inches in di- 
 ameter and about 18 inches deep; put 
 in 1 to H ounces of saltpetre and fill 
 with water and then plug the hole tight. 
 In the ensuing spring take out the plug 
 and pour in about 10 ounces of petro- 
 leum and ignite it. The stump will 
 smoulder away without blazing to the 
 very extremities of the roots, leaving 
 nothing but ashes. [In the United 
 States clearing of lands of stumps on 
 an extensive scale is done rapidly and 
 effectively by the employment of dyna- 
 mite cartridges. W.] 
 
 To Prepare. Beef Tea. Take a thin 
 rump steak of beef, lay it upon a board 
 and with a case-knife scrape it. In this 
 way a red pulp will be obtained which 
 contains all the nutritious portion of 
 the steak. Mix this pulp thoroughly 
 
166 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 with 3 times its bulk of cold water, 
 stirring until the pulp is completely 
 diffused. Put the whole upon a moder- 
 
 Creosote Ointment, is used in skin af- 
 fections. Mix 1 part of creosote with 8 
 of lard. 
 
 Elderberry Ointment is used as a 
 soothing and healing application. It is 
 prepared by boiling 1 part of elder bios- 
 
 ate fire and allow it to come slowly to 
 
 a boil, stirring all the time to prevent 
 
 the pulp from caking. In using this 
 
 do not strain it, but stir the settlings soms with 1 of lard until the blossoms be 
 
 thoroughly into the fluid. One to 3 come pulpy, and then pressing through 
 
 ounces of this may be given at a time. 
 
 To Disguise the Taste of Cod-liver 
 Oil. Mix with each table-spoonful of 
 
 oil 12 drops of the following compound : 
 Two ounces of essence of lemon, 1 ounce 
 of sulphuric ether, and 4 ounce each of 
 oils of caraway, peppermint, and cloves. 
 
 Remedy for Hoarseness. Borax is 
 an excellent remedy for hoarseness or 
 loss of voice common among public 
 speakers and singers. A few minutes 
 before any continuous exercise of the 
 Tocal organs dissolve a small lump of 
 borax in the mouth and gradually swal- 
 low the solution. This acts upon the 
 orifice of the glottis and the vocal cords 
 precisely as " wetting " acts upon the 
 notes of the flute. Five grains of nitre 
 taken in a glass of water, the body be- 
 ing wrapped in extra clothing, will ex- 
 cite a gentle perspiration for an entire 
 night; and this treatment will break 
 up a cold, if employed at its first onset. 
 
 Extract of Elder Blossoms. Take 1 
 ounce of tincture of benzoin and add 
 gradually li quarts of elder-blossom 
 water. 
 
 Belladonna Ointment is used .to al- 
 lay pain in cases of rheumatism, boils, 
 etc. It is prepared by mixing part of 
 extract of belladonna with 1 of lard. 
 
 Cantharides Ointment is used to keep 
 blisters open. Boil 1 part of cantha- 
 rides in 12 of distilled water to J its 
 bulk. Then strain and add 15 parts of 
 rosin cerate to it. Evaporate the mixt- 
 ure to the desired consistency. 
 
 Compound Chloride of Sulphur Oint- 
 ment. Mix 8 parts of chloride of sul- 
 phur, \ of carbonate of potash, 30 of 
 purified lard, and i of essential oil of 
 almonds. 
 
 Compound Lead Ointment is used for 
 dressing inflamed ulcers. Take 6 parts 
 of prepared chalk, 6 of diluted acetic 
 acid, 36 of lead plaster, and 18 of olive 
 oil. Melt the plaster in the oil at a 
 moderate heat, add the chalk and then 
 the acid, and stir the mixture until it 
 10 cold. 
 
 a linen cloth. 
 
 Elemi Ointment is stimulating, and is 
 used for ulcers and to promote sup- 
 puration. Take 3 parts of elemi, 3-1 of 
 oil of turpentine, 6 of lard, and i of 
 olive oil. Melt the elemi and lard to- 
 gether ; take the mixture from the fire, 
 stir in immediately the turpentine and 
 the oil, and strain through linen. 
 
 Gall-nut Ointment is used for haem- 
 orrhoids ; it is astringent and soothing. 
 Mix 6 parts of pulverized gall-nuts, 50 
 of lard, and i of powdered opium. 
 
 Hemlock Ointment. Boil 1 part of 
 fresh hemlock leaves and 1 of lard un- 
 til the leaves are soft, and then strain 
 through linen. 
 
 Iodide of Lead Ointment is applied 
 in cases of swollen joints and scrofulous 
 glands. It is prepared by mixing 1 
 part of iodide of lead with 8 of lard. 
 
 Iodide of Mercury Ointment is used 
 for dressing scrofulous ulcers. Melt 2 
 parts of white wax and 6 parts of lard 
 together, and mix with it 1 part of iodide 
 of mercury. 
 
 Iodide of Potassium Ointment is used 
 for scrofulous glands and ulcers. Dis- 
 solve 2 parts of iodide of potassium in 
 2 of boiling distilled water, and mix in 
 15 of lard. 
 
 Iodide of Sulphur Ointment is used 
 for the cure of itch and other cutaneous 
 diseases. It is prepared by mixing i 
 part of pulverized iodide of sulphur and 
 8 of lard. 
 
 Lead Ointments are applied to ex- 
 ternal inflammations wherever a remedy 
 containing lead in the form of an oint- 
 ment is admissible. 
 
 a. Litharge Ointment. One part of 
 litharge, 1 of strong vinegar, and 3 of 
 olive oil. 
 
 b. Prussian Lead Ointment. Six 
 parts of wax, 24 of olive oil, 3 of lead 
 vinegar, and 6 of distilled water. 
 
 c. Saxon Lead Ointment. Twelve 
 parts of lead vinegar and 2 of olive 
 
 j oil ; or, four parts of lard and 1 of 
 i lead vinegar. 
 
HOUSEHOLD AND BURAL ECONOMY. 
 
 167 
 
 d. White Lead Ointment consists of 
 lard, mutton suet, white lead, and 
 camphor, 
 
 e. Lead Cerate, Mix 6 parts of wax 
 with 24 of olive oil to which have been 
 added 3 parts of lead vinegar and 6 of 
 distilled water. 
 
 Mercury Ointment. Take 12 parts 
 of mercury, Hi of lard, and i of suet. 
 Rub the mercury with the suet and a 
 little lard until no more globules of 
 mercury can be detected ; then add and 
 mix with it the remaining lard. The 
 ointment is used in all cases where an 
 application of mercury is admissible. 
 
 Opium Ointment is used as a sooth- 
 ing dressing. It is prepared by mix- 
 ing 1 part of pulverized opium and 24 
 
 Pitch Ointment is used as a stimu- 
 lating application, promoting suppura- 
 tion. Melt together equal parts of 
 black pitch, wax, and rosin, and press 
 through a linen cloth. 
 
 Savin Ointment is used for keeping 
 open blisters and issues (fontanels). 
 
 Spermaceti Ointment is applied as a 
 cooling dressing. It is prepared by 
 melting together 5 parts of spermaceti, 
 If of white wax, and 14 of olive oil, 
 constantly stirred until it is cold. 
 
 Sulphur Ointment is used for the 
 cure of itch. Eub the affected parts 
 with it in the morning and evening. 
 It is prepared by mixing i part of sul- 
 phur with 1 of lard. 
 
 Sulphur Ointment (Compound) is 
 also used for itch and other cutaneous 
 diseases. Apply twice a day, morning 
 and evening, by rubbing thoroughly 
 into the affected parts. It is prepared 
 by mixing together 4 parts of sulphur, 
 1 of pulverized white hellebore, i of 
 saltpetre, 4 of soft soap, and 12 of lard. 
 
 Tar Ointment is also used for the 
 cure of itch, scab, etc. Melt 1 part of 
 tar and 1 of lard, and press through a 
 linen cloth. 
 
 Tartar Emetic Ointment is used for 
 producing eruptions on the skin and as 
 a counter-irritant. It is prepared by 
 mixing 1 part of pulverized tartar 
 emetic with 4 of lard. 
 
 Zinc Ointment is used for inflamed 
 eyelids, sore nipples, and also for ring- 
 worm, etc. It is prepared by intimately 
 mixing 1 part of oxide of zinc with 6 
 of lard. 
 
 Ammonia Liniment is used as a 
 ! stimulating application on ulcers and 
 contusions, and can be made painless 
 by adding a little extract of belladonna. 
 It is prepared by shaking 1 part of 
 aqua ammonia with 2 of olive oil until 
 they are emulsionized. 
 
 Camphor Liniment, used as a stimu- 
 lating application in sprains, contusions, 
 
 parts of aqua ammonia, and thoroughly 
 shaking the mixture. 
 
 Compound Camphor Liniment is 
 more active than the simple liniment. 
 Dissolve 2 parts of camphor in 17 
 parts of rectified spirit of wine, add i 
 part of oil of lavender and 3 of aqua 
 ammonia, and shake until they are in- 
 timately mixed. In case the pain is 
 very severe, i part of its volume of 
 tincture of opium may be added. 
 
 Lime Liniment is often used for alle- 
 viating pain caused by burns and 
 scalds. Mix 10 parts of lime-water 
 with 10 of olive oil. 
 
 Opium Liniment is used as an ex- 
 ternal means of soothing when opium 
 cannot be administered internally. It 
 is frequently mixed with the compound 
 camphor liniment. Mix 2 parts of 
 tincture of opium with 6 of soap lini- 
 ment. 
 
 Soap Liniment is used for the same 
 purposes as compound camphor lini- 
 ment, but is not as active. Take 2i 
 parts of soap, 1 of camphor, 18 of spirit 
 of rosemary, and 2 of distilled water. 
 Mix the water and the spirit, then add 
 the soap and camphor, and macerate 
 until the solution is complete. 
 
 Turpentine Liniment, a stimulating 
 application used for burns. Mix 2 
 parts of soft soap, 1 of camphor, and 6 
 of oil of turpentine. 
 
 Verdigris Liniment acts as a stimu- 
 lant on indolent venereal and other 
 ulcers. Dissolve 1 part of pulverized 
 verdigris in 7 parts of vinegar, and 
 strain through linen ; add 14 parts of 
 honey, and evaporate the mixture to 
 the requisite consistency. 
 
 Betton's Celebrated Cattle Liniment 
 (Critical Oil). Mix 1 part of oil of 
 rosemary, 8 of tar, and 16 of oil of tur- 
 pentine. 
 
 Turkish Balsam for Fresh Wounds. 
 
168 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Pulverize and mix 2| ounces of ben- 
 zoin, li ounces of tolu balsam, 1 ounce 
 of storax, a like quantity of frankin- 
 cense and myrrh, and 1 V ounces of aloes. 
 Pour 1 pint of rectified spirit of wine 
 over the mixture and let it digest for 3 
 days at a moderate heat, and then 
 quietly settle for 6 days, when the fluid 
 is filtered off and kept in well-closed 
 glass bottles. 
 
 To Soften Hard Water. Pulverize 2 
 parts of calcined soda, 1 of bicarbonate 
 of soda, and mix them with 2 parts of a 
 solution of silicate of soda. Let the 
 mixture stand for 24 hours, during 
 which time it becomes generally so 
 hard that it can be rubbed into a pow- 
 der. One to li pounds of the mixture 
 will, as a general rule, suffice for 25 
 gallons of hot water, which can then at 
 once be used for washing, etc. 
 
 To Keep Talloio and Lard from be- 
 coming Rancid. The tallow or lard is 
 first treated with carbonate of soda in 
 the proportion of 2 pounds of soda to 
 every 1000 pounds of lard, and is then 
 subjected to a digestion with alum in 
 the following manner : Ten pounds of 
 alum are dissolved in 500 pounds of 
 water and 1 pound of slaked lime added 
 to the solution, which is then boiled. 
 This solution is stirred well with 1000 
 pounds of lard, at a temperature of 150 
 to 195 F., for about \ hour. The liquor 
 is then separated from the lard and the 
 lard treated with the same amount of 
 pure water. This lard will keep for an 
 exceedingly long time. This treatment 
 has also the advantage of restoring the 
 original flavor and of producing a lard 
 of greater whiteness. 
 
 Rmcid Batter may be purified by 
 melting it and removing any deposit; 
 then boiling it with lime-water and 
 .allowing it to settle; and finally, treat- 
 ing the liquor thus clarified by suddenly 
 cooling. 
 
 Another Process of Purifying R'incid 
 Butter is as follows: Melt the butter 
 over a moderate fire and add to every 
 10 pounds of butter 5J ounces of fresh, 
 pulverized wood charcoal, A- oiince of 
 pulverized chalk, 1 table-spoonful of 
 honey, and a few carrots cut up in 
 pieces. Keep this mixture in a melted 
 state for A hour, constantly stirring it 
 and removing the scum. Then pour 
 the liquid butter through a fine strainer. 
 
 Butter tlms treated is, when cold, ino- 
 dorous and has an agreeable taste. The 
 charcoal absorbs the badly-smelling 
 gases, the chalk neutralizes the acid 
 which may be present, the honey im- 
 proves the taste, and the carrots impart 
 a yellow color to the butter. When the 
 butter is cold take it from the vessel 
 and cut off the sediment on the bottom, 
 sprinkle with fresh water and keep it in 
 a cool place. It is recommended to 
 place the vessel containing the butter in 
 another filled with fresh water, or, what 
 is still better, in a trough through which 
 runs a current of fresh water. 
 
 To Purify Rancid Fat. Heat to the 
 boiling point 10 pounds of the fat to be 
 purified, 1 gallon of water, and 1 ounce 
 of sulphuric acid ; let the mixture boil 
 for i hour and then remove it from the 
 fire. Now add 4 ounces of pulverized 
 chalk and let the mixture cool. The 
 purified fat separates from the gypsum 
 water and the sulphate of lime (gyp- 
 sum) which has been formed, and can 
 be again used. 
 
 Mongol's Powder for Purifying t r ie 
 Air in /Stables is much used in Eng- 
 land. It keeps the stables wholesome 
 by preventing the putrefaction of ex- 
 crement and urine. It is prepared by 
 treating magnesian lime with sulphuric 
 acid and adding 5 per cent, of carbolic 
 acid. The powder obtained in this way 
 is scattered upon the manure and in the 
 stalls. 
 
 The Removal of Ford Air from Wells is 
 easily accomplished by fastening a line 
 to the handle of an innbrella and low- 
 ering it open, handle upwards, into the 
 well and quickly drawing it up again. 
 By repeating this several times the foul 
 air will be removed. 
 
 How to Keep Ice without an Icehouse. 
 Select a dry, shady spot. Dig a ditch 
 for carrying off the waste water and 
 over it place a lath-work. Upon this 
 lay a thick layer of moss, pine leaves, 
 or sawdust. Now pile upon this the 
 cakes of ice, the larger the better and 
 cut or sawed square, in such a manner 
 as to leave as few spaces as possible, 
 filling up those which may occur with 
 fine sawdust, in order to prevent the air 
 from penetrating into the interior of the 
 pile. It is best to build the stack in 
 the form of a pyramid. When com- 
 pleted it is covered with straw, moss, 
 
HOUSEHOLD AND RURAL ECONOMY. 
 
 159 
 
 leaves, etc., as thick and close as possi- 
 ble, a layer of earth being thrown upon 
 it to secure the covering and as further 
 protection of the ice. 
 
 How to Keep Fruits in Icehouses. 
 Lay the fruits upon cotton in tin boxes 
 without any packing about them, shut 
 down the lid and set them upon the ice, 
 not buried in it. After the fruits have 
 been long on the ice they should not be 
 brought out long before they are used, 
 as tiiey do not keep long afterward 
 without showing specks. This process 
 is of course only intended for tender 
 fruits, as }>eacnes, nectarines, etc. 
 Peaches have been ke|4 in this way 
 more than a month after they were 
 dead ripe, and nectarines nearly 2 
 months. Tender-fleshed melons, which 
 will not keep a week in the fruit room 
 in summer, will keep a month in an 
 icehouse. 
 
 Substitute for Coffee. A substance 
 resembling coffee in appearance ad 
 taste can be made by separating the 
 seeds from the pulp of persimmons, 
 cleansing them, and afterward roasting 
 and grinding them in the same manner 
 as coffee. 
 
 To Preserve Canvas, Cordage, tic. 
 Dissolve 1 pound of sulphate of zinc in 
 40 gallons of water and then add 1 
 pound of sal-soda. After these ingre- 
 dients are dissolved add 2 ounces of 
 tartaric acid. The canvas, etc., should 
 be soaked in this solution for 24 hours 
 and then dried without wringing. 
 
 Stove-polishing Compound. Mix 2 
 parts of copperas, 1 of boneblack, 1 of 
 black lead with sufficient water to form 
 a creamy paste. This will produce a 
 very enduring polish on a stove or other 
 iron article, and after 2 applications it 
 will not require polishing again for a 
 long time, as the copperas will produce 
 a jet-black enamel and cause the black 
 lead to permanently adhere to the iron. 
 
 Wig gin's Process of Purifying Lard 
 and Tallow. Heat the melted fat with 
 some sulphuric acid of 1.3 to 1.45 speci- 
 fic gravity, when the fat will separate 
 itself in a pure condition from the im- 
 purities and membranous substances. 
 
 Manure Salt from Urine. By com- 
 pounding urine with hydrochlonite of 
 magnesia a precipitate of phosphate of 
 ammonia and magnesia is formed in a 
 few days, which increases considerably 
 
 in 4 weeks, when it is separated from 
 the fluid and dried. In this way 7 per 
 cent, of manure salt is obtained. 
 
 Solution of Guano fur l^ioicers. Dis- 
 solve 1 pound of Peruvian guano in 5 
 gallons of rain water and wet the plants 
 
 j with it twice a week. 
 
 Substit u t e fo r G nan o. M ix 350 pa rts 
 of bone-dust, 97 of sulphate of ammo- 
 nia, 19 of pearl ash (or 78 of wood ash), 
 
 i 78 of rock or common salt, 19 of dry 
 sulphate of soda, and 40 of crude sul- 
 phate of magnesia. 
 
 M' mure from Coal Ashes. Place 1 
 part of fresh unslaked lime in the cen- 
 tre of a heap of 100 parts of coal ashes 
 and let it remain until it is entirely 
 slaked. After 12 hours work the heap 
 through thoroughly and then store it in 
 a dry place for future use. 
 
 Manure for Turnips, l\utabagas, etc. 
 Mix 100 parts of common salt with 300 
 of lime and let the mixture lie for a 
 few months. When sowing the seed 
 strew the mixture into the furrows. 
 
 Stockhard's Man n re Mixture for Veg- 
 etable Gardens. Mix 300 parts of peat 
 waste, 30 of burned lime, 30 of pulver- 
 ized brick, 30 of wood ashes, 2 of com- 
 mon salt, 36 of horn shavings, and 45 
 of leaves. The above mixture suffices 
 
 i for 250 square yards and produces ex- 
 
 1 cellent results. 
 
 Manure Powder from Bl&od. Pul- 
 verize 20 parts of plaster of Paris and 
 12 of calcined sulphate of soda and mix 
 them in 100 parts of blood in a large 
 
 ! boiler, and add 5 parts of sulphuric 
 acid at 60 Beaume in small portions. 
 The product will be a spongy mass 
 which is dried and ground to powder. 
 
 Manure from Waste Animal Sub- 
 stances. Chop 100 parts of solid animal 
 substance and treat with 18 parts of a 
 solution made of 1 part sulphuric acid 
 
 I at 66 Beaume and 2 of water, and' 
 grind the mixture for an hour, and after 
 standing 6 hours treat it with 8 per 
 
 i cent, of pulverized quicklime. Sul- 
 
 ! phate of lime is thus formed in which 
 the animal matter remains inclosed. 
 
 j After standing for 6 hours the whole 
 
 j is moulded into brick-shaped masses, 
 
 which are drained in the perforated 
 
 moulds jn which they are prepared and 
 
 then dried and pulverized. 
 
 Liquid and semi-liquid masses like 
 
 i brains or blood are treated with 9 er 
 
170 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 sent, of sulphuric acid at 66 Beaume 
 and 12 per cent, of quicklime, the rest 
 of the process being the same. 
 
 ILLUMINATING MATERIALS. 
 
 Incombustible Wicks. Alumina, kao- 
 lin, quartz, or combinations of calcium, 
 magnesium, or aluminium are ground 
 fine and intimately mixed with dragon's 
 blood and colophony or other resins in 
 connection with saltpetre, permanga- 
 nate of potash, or other combinations 
 rich in oxygen. The mixture is then 
 compounded with water until the mass 
 is plastic and capable of being kneaded. 
 From this composition, which should 
 be as homogeneous as possible, the 
 wicks are formed, then dried in the air, 
 and gradually exposed to a moderate 
 red heat for 1 or 2 hours. 
 
 The wicks may also be intermingled 
 with fibres of asbestos, or surrounded 
 with a tissue of the same material. In 
 the latter case it is not necessary to ex- 
 pose the wicks to a red heat, as* this is 
 done in using them. 
 
 Metallic Wicks are prepared by add- 
 ing 1 or more threads of zinc wire to 
 the ordinary wick of silk, cotton, linen, 
 or asbestos. The purpose of this is to 
 increase the vigor and intensity of the 
 flame without a larger consumption of 
 fuel, or to obtain equal light with a 
 considerable saving of fuel. It has been 
 known for many years that zinc, when 
 heated, is consumed with a brilliant 
 white flame, but this is the first time, 
 to our knowledge, that this property of 
 zinc has been used for this purpose. 
 Suppose a wick has an illuminating 
 power of 1, and one or more threads of 
 zinc wire, which are brought to a red 
 heat, have been added, they are con- 
 sumed at the same time with the wick, 
 increasing the illuminating power by 2, 
 3, etc. ; it is therefore self-evident that 
 with the same expense of wick and fuel 
 an increase in illuminating power must 
 be the result. In fact, experiments we 
 have made have shown that with 7 cot- 
 ton and 1 zinc thread an illumination 
 equal to that from 20 cotton threads 
 was obtained. Wicks for all kinds of 
 candles and lamps may be prepared in 
 this manner. 
 
 Material for Preparing Incombustible 
 
 Torches. Mix 3 parts of alumina, 1 of 
 bauxite, 4 of sawdust, and 4 of wheat 
 chaff with water into a stiff dough, and 
 mould into any desired shape. Sur- 
 round this core with a jacket made of 
 3 parts of alumina, 1 of bauxite, 2 of 
 sawdust, and 2 of wheat chaff, and pro- 
 vided with draught holes. A small 
 saucer of fat clay impervious to petro- 
 leum is placed around the foot of the 
 torch to catch any falling drops of pe- 
 troleum, with which the torch is satu- 
 rated before being ignited. A small 
 cylinder of the same kind of clay and 
 lined with sheet iron is inserted in the 
 centre of the torch for the reception of 
 the handle. When entirely dry, the 
 torch is subjected to a red heat for 16 
 hours, whereby the sawdust and wheat 
 chaff are completely consumed, leaving 
 the mass full of pores and adapted for 
 a greedy absorption of oil. When the 
 torch is entirely dry, and is to be used, 
 it is soaked, as stated, in petroleum and 
 ignited. It will last for an indefinite 
 time. 
 
 Guxfrom Cork. Illumination by gas 
 prepared from waste of cork has been 
 successfully tried in the Theatre 
 National de I' Opera in Paris. The 
 waste is heated in retorts, and the pro- 
 duct of distillation purified by being 
 conducted through a water reservoir. 
 The gas possesses great illuminating 
 power, and is free from sulphuretted 
 hydrogen and other objectionable ad- 
 mixtures. 
 
 Naphtha Ether. A new Illuminat- 
 ing Material. By mixing benzole with 
 alcohol or wood spirit, a body is formed 
 which burns without forming soot. 
 
 Air-tight and Flexible Tissue for Dry 
 Gas Meters. Any kind of tissue is 
 brushed over with a fluid prepared in the 
 following manner : A solution obtained 
 by boiling 500 parts of gelatine, 750 of 
 glycerine, and 1500 of water is com- 
 pounded with 40 parts of bichromate 
 of potash and 4 of an alcoholic solution 
 of salicylic acid, and the whole stored 
 in a dark room until it is to be used. 
 After the tissue has been painted with 
 the fluid so that all pores are closed, it 
 is exposed to the light until it has be- 
 come entirely white. Samples of such 
 material have been entirely indifferent 
 to the action of sulphide of hydrogen, 
 bisulphide of carbon, glycerine, alcohol, 
 
ILLUMINATING MATERIALS. 
 
 171 
 
 ammonia, creosote, etc., for more than a 
 year, and have lost nothing in elasticity. 
 
 To Detect a Leak in a Gas Pipe it is 
 recommended to bring a little soap 
 water upon the suspected place; the 
 formation of soap bubbles will show 
 where and how large the leak is. 
 
 Improvement in Dry Meters. The 
 diaphragms used in dry gas meters are 
 usually made of leather, but these are 
 acted upon by the gas in course of time 
 and do not register correctly. To 
 remedy this, diaphragms made from 
 parchment paper are substituted for the 
 leather. The parchment paper is ob- 
 tained by treating cotton or linen paper 
 with equal parts of sulphuric acid and 
 water for a few minutes, washing thor- 
 oughly with water, and then saturating 
 with equal parts of glycerine, acetate 
 of potassium, and water. 
 
 Apparatus for Manufacturing Illu- 
 minating Gas from Li groin and Air 
 by the Cold Method. The ligroin is in- 
 troduced through the tube Z (Fig. 26), 
 and gets under the sieve c through the 
 valve o provided with the float r, by 
 passing the plates /, which are covered 
 with porous substances. When the 
 ligroin has reached a corresponding 
 high level it lifts the float r, whereby 
 the valve o is closed and the supply 
 stopped. The air enters through the 
 tube ra provided with the valve x, gets 
 under the bell C, and lifts the latter up 
 until it has reached the highest admis- 
 sible point. When this is the case the 
 valve x is closed by the self-acting 
 hinge-joint arrangement S, and the sup- 
 ply of air shut off. As both the valves 
 o and x are automatic, the apparatus 
 works with great regularity. The air 
 introduced reaches the ligroin through 
 the tube k, passes over the plates /, 
 where it is carburetted and passes out 
 through the tube g. 
 
 The machine may, if necessary, be 
 connected with a heating apparatus. 
 
 Purification of Illuminating Gas. 
 The process of freeing gas from am- 
 monia by the dry method consists in 
 conducting the gas through a porous 
 mixture of sulphate of lime and phos- 
 phate of lime with or without a per- 
 centage of phosphate of iron. The sub- 
 stance is produced by treating super- 
 phosphate with aqua ammonia and 
 Vying the mixture. 
 
 Preparation of Wicks for Stearine 
 Candles. The following process has 
 
 Fig. 26. 
 
 always given satisfactory results. The 
 wick is laid for 4 hours in warm water 
 acidulated with sulphuric acid, when, 
 it is wrung out and dried by means of 
 hot air for 24 hours. It is then placed 
 in a bath consisting of 1000 parts of 
 rain water, 41 of boracic acid, and 186 
 of crystallized sulphate of ammonia, 
 and should be frequently turned. After 
 it has been taken from the bath it is 
 dried for 72 hours. 
 
 " Melanyl " Candles consist of equal 
 parts of stearine and hard paraffine. 
 This candle combines the pleasantness 
 of the stearine and paraffme candle 
 without the disagreeable features of the 
 latter. 
 
 To Coat Tallow Candles with a Hard 
 Substance which will not crack. The 
 candles are coated by successive dip- 
 pings into the following 3 mixtures : 
 
 I. Melt 1 part of dammar resin, 2 of 
 
172 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 white rosin, 10 of stearic acid, 44 of 
 good tallow, and 3 of camphor. 
 
 II. Melt 5 parts of dammar resin, 2 
 of white pitch, 10 of stearic acid, 24 of 
 tallow, and 3 of camphor. 
 
 III. Melt 2 parts of white wax, 10 of 
 stearic acid, 5 of tallow, and 3 of cam- 
 phor. 
 
 To Color Paraffine, Wax, Stearic 
 Acid, etc., Black. The materials are 
 melted and digested for some minutes 
 with coarsely powdered or bruised 
 anacardium nuts (the fruit of Anacar- 
 dium orientale). This nut contains a 
 black, fluid, vegetable fat, which com- 
 bines intimately with the fused candle 
 material and does not injure the illu- 
 minating power of the candles. 
 
 Coloring Tallow. Grohdaus rejects 
 as a general rule the coloring of tallow 
 to be used for candles, with the excep- 
 tion of giving the candles a bluish- 
 white tint. He claims that the color- 
 ing of candles is only advisable if they 
 are to be used shortly after being manu- 
 factured. For this he gives the follow- 
 ing receipts : To color tallow blue, rub 
 it up with the finest ultramarine at a 
 temperature of from 120 to 145 F. 
 The most common method of coloring 
 it green is with sulphate of copper dis- 
 solved in water and stirred through the 
 tallow ; this serves also for clarifying. 
 If the tallow will not take the color, 
 some older tallow must be added. For 
 100 pounds of tallow 4 ounces of sul- 
 phate of copper are generally taken. 
 It may also be colored green with ver- 
 digris treated in the same manner as 
 ultramarine. To color red, the boiling 
 hot tallow is poured over heuna (al- 
 (cauna root, whereby it assumes a dark 
 red color. All possible tints can then 
 be produced by adding white tallow. 
 The tallow is colored yellow by adding 
 unbleached palm oil having a reddish 
 tint, and also with annotto. 
 
 Junemann's Process of Producing 
 White and Hard Tallow Candles Burn- 
 ing with a Large Flame and Consuming 
 the Wick. Add an equal quantity by 
 weight of water to the tallow and melt it 
 in a vat by introducing steam. Then add 
 gradually and in very small portions at 
 a time, the milk of lime prepared from 
 14 to 20 per cent, of quicklime and the 
 requisite quantity of water, and keep 
 the mass in constant motion by stirring. 
 
 After 4 hours' saponification will have 
 progressed so far that the stirring im- 
 plement can no longer be moved, bu j 
 the introduction of steam is continued 
 for 1 or 2 hours longer until the mass 
 has the appearance of grits. The steam 
 is then shut off, and the yellowish, 
 sweetish water, which remains on the 
 bottom of the vat and contains the 
 glycerine, is drawn off. The soap, 
 when cold, is pulverized between 2 iron 
 fluted rollers, and the powder brought 
 into another vatalso heated by steam and 
 containing 28 to 30 percent, of concen- 
 trated sulphuric acid of 66 B., reduced 
 with water to 25 B. In this the soap 
 powder is boiled for 4 hours, whereby 
 the lime contained in the soap combines 
 with the sulphuric acid and is precipi- 
 tated as gypsum. The sebacic acids 
 are then brought into one or several 
 smaller vats and, when nearly cool, 3 
 per cent, of nitrous acid is added, and 
 the compound constantly stirred until 
 the sebacic acids are entirely congealed. 
 The nitrous acid is obtained as follows : 
 Add water to concentrated nitric acid 
 until it shows 22 B., and then bring it 
 into WoulfPs bottles connected by a gas 
 tube with a cast-iron retort. Place in 
 the retort 5 per cent, of finely-pulver- 
 ized sugar and 20 per cent, of dilute 
 sulphuric acid, and heat until no more 
 red vapors pass over, whereby the acid 
 in the bottles, which should be kept 
 cool, by absorbing nitrous acid gradu- 
 ally assumes a blue, then a green to 
 dark green color, this being the right 
 moment of interrupting the operation 
 and adding the acid to the fat. After 
 thoroughly mixing and adding a few 
 strips of zinc, the fat is brought into 
 another vat and boiled for 1 to 2 hours 
 by introducing steam, the process being 
 interrupted 3 or 4 times during the 
 operation by shutting off the steam for 
 5 to 6 minutes each time. Finally, 
 when a sample taken from the vat 
 indicates that the fat has assumed a 
 dark yellow color and a considerable 
 degree of hardness, add a few bucket- 
 fuls of water, let it boil for i hour 
 longer, and then allow it to stand 
 quietly to settle. 
 
 The sebacic acids are finally brought 
 into a distilling apparatus and distilled 
 by the action of an abundant current of 
 superheated steam, and are then washed 
 
ILLUMINATING MATERIALS. 
 
 173 
 
 Several times in water acidulated with 
 4 of 1 per cent, of oxalic acid in a vat 
 heated by steam, when they are left 
 standing quietly and finally filtered 
 through a thick woollen cloth or felt. 
 
 The sebacic acids treated in this way 
 have lost their original appearance and 
 present now a white and very hard 
 mass, feeling but slightly greasy. 
 
 To prepare candles of the finest 
 quality, the distilled sebacic acids must 
 first be pressed cold and then hot. 
 The press-cakes contain 70 per cent, of 
 the tallow used, and as regards external 
 qualities are equal to stearic acid, dif- 
 fering from the latter only in their 
 melting point being a few degrees 
 lower. 
 
 The moulds should be slightly heated 
 and the tallow stirred until it has as- 
 sumed a milky appearance before be- 
 ing poured into the moulds. No wax 
 is added. The three-cord plaited wicks 
 used are first boiled for 10 minutes in a 
 Solution of 11 3 ounces of glassy phos- 
 phoric acid and 1 ounces of boracic 
 acid to every 100 pounds of water, and 
 then slowly dried. 
 
 Fabrication of Stearine. Candles until- 
 out the Use of Presses and other Expen- 
 sive Machinery. Heat 10 to 20 per cent, 
 of good candle tallow in a thoroughly 
 cleansed boiler. When melted ex- 
 tinguish the fire and allow the tallow 
 to stand until a thin film is formed up- 
 on the surface. Then add 2 per cent, 
 of soda lye of 30 B., and stir until the 
 mass has acquired the consistency of 
 soap prepared in the cold way. The 
 fire is now rekindled and the compound 
 brought to the boiling point. The soap 
 by boiling is again decomposed and a 
 flaky precipitate, containing the im- 
 purities which must be removed from 
 the tallow, is formed. By allowing the 
 tallow to settle for some time it becomes 
 clear and nearly colorless. In this 
 state it can be advantageously used for 
 lubricating machinery. But for the : 
 manufacture of candles it requires ! 
 further treatment, as it still contains I 
 traces of soap, which are as injurious 
 as impure tallow. For this purpose it 
 is brought into a copper boiler and 
 clarified with acidulated water of 1 to 
 2 B, As long as it contains traces of 
 soap, a froth, which does not dissolve, 
 appears on the surface. The addition 
 
 of acidulated water is continued until 
 the froth has entirely disappeared, when 
 it may be assumed that the soap is de- 
 composed. But it is best to make sure 
 of it by a test. For this purpose draw 
 off some of the fluid from the bottom of 
 the boiler and test it with litmus pa- 
 j per; if this is not reddened the boiling 
 i must be continued with a further ad- 
 dition of acidulated water. When lit- 
 mus paper is reddened by a sample the 
 tallow is allowed to settle; the acid 
 water is then drawn off and the fat 
 boiled again with fresh water. 
 
 The oleine and stearine are then 
 separated in the following manner: A 
 vat is required, which is provided with 
 a false bottom having holes i inch in 
 diameter, and placed about 4 inches 
 above the bottom of the vat, and with 
 a faucet between the two bottoms. 
 Place in it equal quantities of the tal- 
 low and boiling water, and cover the 
 vat to prevent rapid cooling. The mass 
 is allowed to stand for 2 or 3 days ac- 
 cording to quantity, until a thermome- 
 ter dipped into the upper layer of the 
 tallow shows a temperature of 70 to 
 75 F. When this is the case the faucet 
 j is opened, the water in the lower part 
 of the vat running off first, then the 
 oleine, while the crystallized stearine 
 remains upon the false bottom and is 
 ready for moulding. This is done in 
 the same manner as tallow candles, but 
 at a higher temperature. The mass, 
 which should have a milky appearance, 
 must be constantly stirred. Three- 
 corded plaited wicks are used. 
 
 New Automatic Gas-lighter. This 
 consists of a film of collodion incor- 
 porated with platinum black (finely- 
 divided metallic platinum). It is pre- 
 pared as follows : Pour a somewhat 
 concentrated solution of gun-cotton up- 
 on a glass plate and, as soon as the col- 
 lodion film has acquired some con- 
 sistency, scatter upon it not too thin a 
 layer of platinum black, and to prevent 
 the latter from becoming heated in con- 
 sequence of the evaporation of the sol- 
 vent, quickly cover the whole with 
 another glass plate. By inserting a 
 small piece of the film, when thor- 
 oughly dried out, in the upper part of 
 an ordinary gas burner, and turning on 
 the gas, the latt*> r will be immediately 
 ignited. 
 
174 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 IMITATIONS, SUBSTITUTES, ETC. 
 
 Artificial Leather for Lithographers 1 
 Rollers. The following mass, pre- 
 viously melted in a water-bath, is poured 
 around a core about 4 inch less in diam- 
 eter than the mould : 
 
 Syrup 20 parts. 
 
 Glue 20 " 
 
 Saltpetre 3 ' 
 
 Sugar 3 " 
 
 Water 5 " 
 
 Oil of almonds 1 part. 
 
 Chrome yellow 1 " 
 
 The mass, when cold, is taken from 
 the mould, placed for 10 hours in a 
 solution of 1 part of sulphate of alum- 
 ina and 1 of potash in 10 of water, when 
 it is dried in the air for 4 to 6 days. 
 
 Vegetable Ivory is obtained in large 
 quantities from the kernel of a nut of a 
 variety of palm (Phytelephus makro- 
 carpa) indigenous to Central and South 
 America and Africa. The green hull 
 of the unripe nut encloses a watery fluid 
 having a bitter taste, which, gradually 
 thickening, forms the kernel. The 
 semi-liquid fluid, mixed with water and 
 sugar, is used in South America as a 
 favorite, refreshing, and wholesome 
 beverage. 
 
 Substitute for Horn, Hard Rubber, 
 Ivory, etc. By stirring starch into a 
 thick paste with a little water, and 
 heating this from 212 to 265 F., it is 
 converted into a transparent, elastic 
 mass, which is then dried and worked 
 into combs, buttons, etc. For certain 
 purposes pigments, glue, sugar, wool, 
 silk, fish scales, asbestos, and similar 
 substances are mixed with the starch 
 paste. 
 
 Vegetaline. This new substance, 
 claimed by its inventor to be incom- 
 bustible, impervious, and unchangea- 
 ble, serves as a substitute for ivory, 
 coral, caoutchouc, leather, etc. It is 
 prepared by treating cellulose derived 
 from any source with sulphuric acid of 
 58 Beaume, at a temperature of 60 
 F., and then washed with cold water to 
 remove any excess of sulphuric acid, 
 dried, and pulverized. The powder is 
 mixed with resinous soap, as sodium 
 resinate, and the soda separated by sul- 
 phate of alumina. The mass is again 
 dried and pressed into cakes in a hy- 
 
 draulic press. The cakes are cut into 
 thin slices and moulded into desired 
 shapes by strong pressure. To make 
 the substance entirely incombustible, 
 the cellulose, after having been treated 
 with sulphuric acid, is washed with 
 chloride of ammonia, silicate of lime, or 
 the borates of soda and potash. To 
 make it transparent, castor-oil or glyc- 
 erine is added to the dry powder, veg- 
 etable coloring matter being used for 
 coloring it. Its opaqueness is increased 
 by adding linseed oil converted into a 
 siccative with litharge; mineral colors 
 being in this case used for coloring. 
 
 Substitute for Linseed Oil and Oil of 
 Turpentine in Preparing Paints. Mix 
 100 parts of colophony and 20 of crys- 
 tallized soda with 50 of water, and di- 
 lute the mixture with 250 parts of 
 water and 24 of caustic ammonia. The 
 product thus obtained is of a syrupy 
 consistency and can be mixed with the 
 pigments in the usual manner. It 
 dries and quickly becomes hard, covers 
 well, can be coated with Tarnish, and 
 is not affected by moisture and changes 
 of temperature. 
 
 Substitute for Bristles. The fibrous 
 bark of the sugar palm (Arenga saccha- 
 ria} is a good substitute for bristles and 
 animal and human hair. The bark ia 
 first immersed in water and boiled for 
 some time in an alkaline solution. The 
 fibres are then soaked in an emulsion 
 of fat, alkali, and water for about 12 
 hours, after which time they are suffi- 
 ciently hard and elastic to be used. 
 
 Artificial Chalk. In preparing soda 
 water, gypsum results from the action 
 of the oil of vitriol on the limestone 
 used. This is mixed with lime-mud 
 obtained in making soda-ash caustic. 
 The whole is then elutriated, and the 
 liquid containing the finer portions in 
 suspension is run off" and allowed to set- 
 tle; the powder is then pressed into 
 moulds and dried. 
 
 Artificial Leather. The following 
 new article of vegetable leather has 
 been invented and patented by X. Kar- 
 chesky, of Belleville, N. J. It is com- 
 posed of a web of paper having one or 
 both of its surfaces converted into veg- 
 j etable parchment. This is dyed by a 
 : process which produces an even and 
 i perfect diffusion of color throughout 
 [ the material, and then embossed to imi- 
 
IMITATIONS, SUBSTITUTES, ETC. 
 
 175 
 
 tate leather. The process is as follows : 
 Paper of any desired thickness is im- 
 mersed in a weak solution of sulphuric 
 acid, the thickness of the paper or the 
 sizing upon the paper determining the 
 strength of the acid solution. The 
 object of this is to reduce only the sur- 
 face of the paper to pulp without dis- 
 solving the entire fabric, so that the 
 result will be a paper web retaining its 
 fibrous quality, but enclosed within 2 
 films of vegetable parchment. After 
 the surface of the paper has been re- 
 duced by the action of the acid to a 
 pulpy state it is taken from the acid 
 bath and lightly scraped by being drawn 
 over stationary scrapers, care being 
 taken not to scrape hard enough to re- 
 move the pulp or tear the sheet. The 
 sheet is then passed over a series of 
 hard, smooth rollers, which compress 
 and spread the pulp evenly over the 
 surfaces of the sheet, thus producing a 
 fabric smooth and glossy on both sides. 
 It is then placed in a water-bath for the 
 purpose of diluting and partially wash- 
 ing out the sulphuric acid in it, a small 
 quantity of the acid being allowed to 
 remain. After being removed from the 
 water-bath the fabric is submitted to a 
 series of dye-baths, more or less in num- 
 ber, according to the depth of color re- 
 quired. The dyes are either alkaline 
 or an alkali is added if necessary. The 
 sulphuric acid left in the fabric acts as 
 a mordant, and the energy and avidity 
 with which the alkaline dyes seek the 
 acid cause a uniform and complete 
 diffusion of color throughout the fabric. 
 It is then washed with water to remove 
 any sulphates or excess of coloring mat- 
 ter lying upon its surfaces, and again 
 drawn over the scrapers to remove the 
 excess of water. It is then passed 
 through a warm bath of glycerine, 
 which, as the water remains in the 
 fabric, penetrates it throughout. It is 
 then carried to hot drying cylinders, 
 over which it is kept passing until the 
 water has been completely expelled, 
 care being had not to subject it to a 
 high enough heat to evaporate the soft- 
 ening material. It is then passed 
 through cold calender rollers until 
 it is thoroughly cooled off, when 
 it is wound upon a reel and is ready 
 for embossing. This is done in 
 the usual manner by subjecting the 
 
 fabric to hot pressure from engraved 
 rollers. 
 
 When it is desired to convert only one 
 surface of the paper into vegetable 
 parchment, the process is modified by 
 substituting in place of the acid bath a 
 roller or rollers of smooth lead or rub- 
 ber revolving in acid, over which the 
 paper is carried and upon which it is 
 pressed by another roller or rollers. 
 By this means only one side of the 
 paper absorbs the acid, the remainder 
 of the process being the same as when 
 both sides of the paper are converted 
 into vegetable parchment. 
 
 Artificial Leather (Stierlin's German 
 and French Patent). A loosely-coher- 
 ing fleece of flax, cotton, or hemp is 
 prepared on the carding engine and 
 immersed in a solution prepared as fol- 
 lows: Dissolve 25 parts of animal or 
 vegetable glue, which has been exposed 
 to the action of tannin, in 75 parts of 
 water, and compound the solution with 
 20 parts of pipe-clay and 5 to 10 of any 
 kind of tannin. The fleece is then 
 passed through rollers heated by steam, 
 which press out the excess of material, 
 and is next brought into a bath con- 
 taining a decoction of oak bark with 5 
 per cent, of glycerine. By this solution 
 color, softness, and density are imparted 
 to the fabric. After remaining here for 
 12 to 24 hours the fabric is taken from 
 the bath and dried by means of hot or 
 cold air, after which the leather is 
 ready for use. 
 
 Artificial Wool is prepared by mixing 
 vegetable fibrous substances, as jute, 
 hemp, nettle, flax, etc., with wool. The 
 fibrous substances are boiled with caus- 
 tic lye, at 350 F., for i hour, then 
 washed, and repeatedly boiled in an- 
 other boiler, 2 ounces of ammonio-sul- 
 phate of copper and 2 pounds of soda 
 being added to every 100 pounds of 
 material during the boiling. The ma- 
 terial is then washed, dried, and mixed 
 with the wool. 
 
 Substitute for Meerschaum, Ivory, etc. 
 A material which can be carved is pre- 
 pared by treating peeled potatoes for 36 
 hours with a solution of 8 parts of sul- 
 phuric acid in 100 of water. The mass 
 is then dried between blotting-paper 
 and pressed. Pipes closely resembling 
 meerschaum and other articles can be 
 manufactured from it. By the use of a 
 
176 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 very strong pressure a close imitation 
 of ivory billiard balls has been made 
 of this material, 
 
 Porous Substance as a Substitute for 
 Felt for Trays for Beer Glasses. The 
 felt generally used in trays for beer 
 glasses is replaced by a porous mass of 
 clay consisting of 54 parts of Meissen 
 clay, 27 of porcelain earth, 13 of feld- 
 spar, and <3 of chalk. The materials 
 are moistened with water and finely 
 ground, when they are dried until suffi- 
 ciently plastic to be moulded. The 
 moulded pieces are then moderately 
 burned in a potter's oven. 
 
 Substitute for Cast Iron, Stone, Clay^ 
 and Cement. Sixty to 80 parts of blast- 
 furnace slag, 10 to 20 of soda waste or 
 alkalies, and 1 to 20 each of lime, pyro- 
 lusite, and greenstone (diabase) are 
 melted together in a small blast fur- 
 nace or cupola, so that the mass has 
 about the following composition : 
 
 Silica 60 per cent. 
 
 Lime 10 " 
 
 Alumina 10 "* 
 
 Ferric and manganic oxide . . 8 " 
 Alkalies .12 
 
 100 " 
 
 The mass is so hard and tough that it 
 can be turned like steel, and resists the 
 action of the atmosphere, water, and 
 acids to such a degree that it can be 
 used for gas and water pipes, building 
 purposes, steps, etc. 
 
 If eels of Boots and Shoes, Buttons, 
 etc., can be prepared from pulverized 
 leather without the use of an aggluti- 
 nant. Place thoroughly cleansed 
 leather waste in a water-bath of about 
 150 F. for 1 hour, then carefully dry 
 it in a revolving drum at about 150 F., 
 and grind it to a fineness according to 
 use intended. The ground material is 
 pressed into moulds heated to about 
 240 to 250 F., and subjected for about 
 JO minutes to a pressure of not less than 
 800 pounds to the square yard. For 
 boot heels the powder is left in the 
 moulds until the exterior parts become 
 hard, but the interior remains com- 
 paratively elastic. If substances are 
 added which do not combine with the 
 leather waste at the above heat, the 
 moulds must be heated from 290 to 
 F. to make the leather semi-fluid. 
 
 Hall's Substitute for Leather. Mix 
 in a suitable vessel 4 parts of wax, 2 
 of caoutchouc, 1 of resin, 2 of bone- 
 black, and 1 of lampblack, and apply 
 the mixture while warm to cloth or 
 other fabrics by means of a brush. Let 
 it dry thoroughly and repeat the coat- 
 ing several times, allowing the previous 
 coating to become entirely dry before 
 applying the next. This material, after 
 having been lacquered, is principally 
 used for shields for caps. 
 
 Preparation of Leather Cloth. Heat 
 for 1 hour over a moderate fire 15 
 parts of powdered litharge, 15 of pulver- 
 ized brown umber, and 2 of manganic 
 hydrate with some linseed oil ; then add 
 500 parts of linseed oil to the mixture 
 and let the whole stand for a few days 
 to settle. It is then thoroughly mixed 
 with an equal volume of water, and 
 applied to linen, cotton, or woollen tis- 
 sues, and allowed to become dry. Now 
 mix clear linseed oil with lampblack 
 to a stiff paste and spread it on the 
 tissue. If the latter is very thin, or the 
 coating required to dry quickly, the 
 linseed oil must be boiled with the 
 above-named substances for 2 or 3 hours 
 to acquire the proper consistency. A 
 paste made of 15 parts of plumbic salt 
 and some turpentine and lampblack 
 to 1000 parts of linseed oil is spread 
 over the first coating and allowed to 
 dry. Successive applications of raw 
 linseed oil follow until the surface is 
 suitable, when it is smoothed with 
 pumice. Mix linseed oil with lamp- 
 black or other coloring matter, and 
 paint the surface, allow it to dry, and 
 pumice. Coat with a varnish of 1000 
 parts of linseed oil, 57 of umber, 5 of 
 litharge, and 5 of Berlin blue, boiled 
 for 24 hours, and when cold mixed with 
 turpentine. After the coat of varnish 
 is dry the appearance of Morocco is 
 given to the fabric by subjecting it to 
 pressure from engraved rollers. The 
 material, which is already manufact- 
 ured in large quantities, is soft, pliable, 
 perfectly water-proof, and particularly 
 well adapted for saddler and trunk- 
 maker's work, fancy articles, etc. 
 
 Jlicoud's Artificial Leather. Knead 
 boiled rye flour, pulverized Spanish 
 chalk, some kind of coloring matter, 
 and linseed oil into a uniform dough, 
 and apply this to woollen or cotton tie- 
 
IMITATIONS, SUBSTITUTES, ETC. 
 
 1T7 
 
 sues with a suitable instrument. Pumice 
 the coat, when dry, and then brush it 
 over with an oil varnish to which the 
 desired color has been added. After 
 an even and perfect diffusion of the 
 color, the fabric is again pumiced and 
 coated with fine lacquer. The flesh 
 side of the leather is prepared in the 
 same manner by using an oil or aque- 
 ous mixture, according to the purpose 
 for which the fabric is to be used. The 
 first is prepared by adding white lead 
 ground in linseed oil of the consistency 
 of syrup, and reducing this with oil of 
 turpentine, so that it can be conve- 
 niently applied to the tissue, coating it 
 several times. The aqueous mixture 
 consists of gelatine, gum paste, solution 
 of gutta-percha, or of caoutchouc. What- 
 ever the mixture applied, dust of cot- 
 ton, silk, woollen, or leather is sifted 
 over it and allowed to dry, when the 
 
 g articles not adhering are removed by 
 rushing. 
 
 Artificial Slating for Blackboards 
 and School Slates. Mix 1(5 parts of 
 ground pumice-stone and 21 of pulver- 
 ized animal charcoal with 10 parts of 
 Ejrified caoutchouc and 5 of sulphur, 
 oil out the mixture in thin sheets and 
 cut it into the desired sizes, which are 
 then formed into packages in the fol- 
 lowing manner: First a sheet of tin 
 plate, next 1 of paper, on the top of this 
 a layer of the above composition, then 
 again a sheet of tin plate, a sheet of 
 paper, a layer of composition, and so 
 on, are pressed together, brought into a 
 boiler, and there submitted to a temper- 
 ature of 266 to 285 F. for 2V hours. 
 The packages are then taken from the 
 boiler, and each plate, with the paper 
 covering it on both sides, is tightly com- 
 pressed by passing it through 2 'plates 
 heated by steam, and then again sub- 
 mitted to the above temperature for 2 
 hours. The plates, when cool, are 
 pumiced, and are then ready for use. 
 
 Artificial Ebony. This is prepared 
 on a large scale by grinding to |x>wder 
 60 parts of charcoal obtained from sea- 
 weeds, previously treated with dilute 
 sulphuric acid and dried, and mixing 
 it with 10 parts of liquid glue, oof gutta- 
 porcha, and 2V of caoutchouc, the latter 
 two substances having been previously 
 mixed with coal-tar to render them gelat- 
 inous. Then 10 parts of coal-tar, 5 of 
 12 
 
 pulverized sulphur, 2 of pulverized 
 alum, and 5 of powdered resin are 
 added, and the mixture heated to 300 
 F. After having been cooled a sub- 
 stance is obtained which is equal in 
 many respects to genuine ebony wood, 
 but far less expensive, and capable of 
 receiving a finer polish. 
 
 Leather, Soap, and Glue from Sea- 
 weeds (Algce). The plants 'are dried 
 and powdered, and extracted with warm 
 water in a heated boiler, with or with- 
 out the addition of alcohol, soda, milk 
 of lime or other salt. The solution is 
 allowed to settle at a temperature of 
 120 to 140 F. When cold it congeals 
 to a jelly, which is used for various pur- 
 poses. 
 
 1. Transparent Sea-weed Leather is 
 obtained by pouring the jelly upon a 
 plate and allowing it to dry out, after 
 other substances and various quantities 
 of alcohol, according to the thickness 
 and desired pliability, have been added. 
 
 2. Opaque Sea-weed Leather is pro- 
 duced in the same manner, except the 
 adding of substances which give to it 
 greater power of resistance and the de- 
 sired opacity and color. Both varieties 
 may also be spread upon muslin, or pa- 
 per, or other substances, whereby, in 
 the first case, a substitute for gutta- 
 percha, parchment, etc., is obtained, 
 and, in the latter case, one for wall pa- 
 per, book covers, etc. 
 
 3. Sea-weed Soap. In this soap the 
 jelly takes the place of the fats or re- 
 sins. According to the degree of con- 
 centration it can be obtained in soft or 
 solid form, or as a powder. It is used 
 for linen, cotton, silk, or wool. 
 
 4. Sea-weed Glue can advantageously 
 be substituted for animal glue. 
 
 Artificial Stone for Sharpening Lead 
 and. Slate Pencils. Boil 1 part of lin- 
 seed-oil varnish in 5 parts of glue dis- 
 solved in water, and add with constant 
 stirring 1 part of cement dissolved in 
 water, and sufficient fine sand or ground 
 glass to make a plastic dough. This is 
 spread upon curved blocks of wood as 
 being better suited than flat surfaces for 
 sharpening pencils. 
 
 To Convert Ordinary Agate into 
 Onyx. Place the polished stones in a 
 solution of iron in aqua-fortis. Then 
 impregnate that part of the stone which 
 is to be white or yellowish -white for 
 
178 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 some length of time with a solution of 
 caustic soda in water. The stones are 
 then dried for about 8 days on the top 
 of a stove, and finally burned in a closed 
 earthen pot, when the coloring will make 
 its appearance. 
 
 Substitute for Opaque Window Glass. 
 Chardon recommends for this a layer 
 of gelatine mixed with very finely pow- 
 dered sulphate of baryta. For this pur- 
 pose he mixes the two following solu- 
 tions : a. 1.5 parts of hydrochlorate 
 of baryta and 5 of gelatine in 100 of 
 water; b. 2.15 parts of sulphate of 
 baryta and 5 of gelatine in 100 of 
 water. The chloride of sodium formed 
 is removed by washing the gelatinous 
 mass. 
 
 Porous Substance as a Substitute for 
 Blotters. Mix 7 parts by weight of 
 gypsum with 1 part by weight of potato- 
 flour and pour the mass into a mould. 
 After becoming hard the blotter is ready 
 and may be used for years. 
 
 Flexible Mirrors capable of being 
 bent into any desirable shape can be 
 made by the following process: Coat 
 paper or tissue with white of egg and 
 apply several layers of transparent 
 varnish to the thickness of mirror glass. 
 Coat a sheet of tinfoil with several 
 layers of varnish impervious to water, 
 and, when dry, glue the tinfoil upon 
 paper, tissue, wood, or any other sub- 
 stance. Spread mercury on the other 
 side of the tinfoil, which forms an 
 amalgam with the tin, upon which lay 
 the varnished surface of the paper and 
 subject them to a strong pressure as long 
 as is necessary, and remove the paper 
 by moistening the back with water, as 
 this dissolves the white of egg and de- 
 taches the paper. The result of the 
 operation will be an actual mirror, the 
 beauty of which will of course largely 
 depend upon the clearness and trans- 
 parency of the varnish used. The mir- 
 ror may be made in such a form as to 
 fit the place it is to occupy, but this is 
 not absolutely necessary, since the 
 finished mirrors can be bent into any 
 desired shape, the inventor, for this 
 reason, having given them the name 
 of flexible mirrors. 
 
 Beautiful effects can be produced by 
 using colored mirrors, which can be 
 readily produced in the same man- 
 ner. 
 
 Artificial Whalebone for Umbrella, 
 and Parasol Ribs, Busks for Corsets., 
 etc. Knead and soften 2 pounds or 
 caoutchouc, then mix with it 8| ounces 
 of flowers of sulphur, 7 ounces of shel- 
 lac, a like quantity of magnesia, and 
 8| ounces of roll sulphur. The pieces 
 formed from the mixture are heated in 
 a furnace at 250 to 300 F. 
 
 Buffalo Skin as a Substitute for 
 Horn. According to Rohn, buffalo 
 skins can be softened by steam and 
 pressed into any desired shape, and 
 when dry resemble transparent horn, 
 capable of being turned, ground, and 
 polished. This prepared material is 
 well adapted for pump pistons. 
 
 Substitute for Tinfoil. Make a thin 
 paste with zinc dust and albumen, and 
 spread it with a brush or roller upon 
 cotton or linen tissue. When dry the 
 albumen is coagulated by steam arid 
 the fabric immersed in a solution of 
 chloride of tin. The tin is deposited in 
 a fine powder on the zinc. Beautiful 
 effects can be had by burnishing the 
 whole or parts. Tissues thus prepared 
 are a good water-proof substitute for 
 tinfoil in many cases. 
 
 Zeiodelite. The material known by 
 this name is prepared as follows: 
 Melt 19 parts of sulphur, and stir in 42 
 parts of pulverized fragments of stone- 
 ware or glass, and when thoroughly 
 mixed pour into moulds. Sheets of 
 this prepared material can be substi* 
 tuted for lead in the construction of 
 sulphuric acid chambers, as they resist 
 the action of the highest concentrated 
 acids and, though the plates are 4 inch 
 thick and lead plates only iV inch thick, 
 their cost is but \ of the latter, and the 
 sulphuric acid is entirely free from 
 lead. They retain their solidity in 
 boiling water, and do not melt under 
 250 F., making them a good substitute 
 for asphaltum in many cases, and also 
 for hydraulic cement for stone work. 
 
 To join the plates in constructing sul- 
 phuric acid chambers, they are set 
 about 1 inch apart, and the joints filled 
 in with melted zeiodelite heated to 
 390 F. 
 
 Imitations of Mother-of-pearl and 
 Marble with Glue. The following proc- 
 ess, which is to a large extent based 
 upon laboratory experiments, may be 
 divided into 5 principal operations : 1. 
 
IMITATIONS, SUBSTITUTES, ETC. 
 
 179 
 
 Preparation of the plates ; 2. Prepara- 
 tion of the glue solutions ; 3. Pouring 
 the colored glue solutions upon plates ; 
 4. Transferring the layer of glue to a 
 layer of gelatine ; 5. Drying the ven- 
 eers and detaching them from the 
 plates. 
 
 1. Preparation of the Plates. Both 
 marble and glass plates are used for 
 imitations of marble, but only glass 
 plates are employed for imitations 
 of mother-of-pearl. The glass plates 
 must be ground, but need not exceed 
 rV to } inch in thickness, and only re- 
 quire careful washing and drying for 
 imitations of mother-of-pearl. For imi- j 
 tatious of marble they should be rubbed j 
 with an oiled linen rag. Other glass 
 plates, after being washed, are polished 
 with pure colcothar and water, and 
 wiped with a soft rag to remove any 
 particles of the polishing powder. The 
 polished surface is then gently rubbed 
 with a rag dipped in pure Spanish chalk 
 (soapstone), and the excess of chalk 
 carefully dusted off. 
 
 2. Preparation of the Glue Solution. 
 For 1 dozen plates, each 1 square yard, 
 soak 2 pounds of good, colorless glue for 
 24 hours in water, pour off the water, 
 and melt the glue in a water-bath, and 
 stir in 3 ounces of glycerine. For imi- 
 tating marble with 2 colors, compound 
 1 to H pints of this glue solution with 
 the quantities of thoroughly ground 
 mineral colors given below; the rest 
 of the glue solution is mixed with 
 6i ounces of zinc white ground very 
 fine. For imitating marble with 3 
 colors, mix I pint of the glue solu- 
 tion with one coloring matter, and 
 $ pint with the other coloring matter, 
 and the remainder with zinc white. 
 For imitating marble with 4 colors, 
 take i pint of the glue solution to each 
 of the 3 coloring matters, and mix the 
 rest with 4i ounces of zinc white. 
 
 The proportions by weight of the 
 mixtures for 10 different varieties of 
 imitations of marble and enamel, are as 
 follows : 
 
 a. Mix 1 pint of glue solution with 
 1J ounces of colcothar and 2 ounces 
 of zinc white, and the rest of the glue 
 solution with 6 ounces of zinc white. 
 
 b. Mix 1 pint of glue solution with 
 1J ounces of colcothar, and the rest 
 with 5i ounces of zinc white. 
 
 c. Mix | pint of glue solution with 
 ounces of zinc white and 1 ounce 
 
 .of colcothar, f pint of the glue solu- 
 tion with 1 ounce of yellow ochre, 
 and the rest with 5i ounces of zinc 
 white. 
 
 d. Mix i pint of the glue solution 
 with 1 ounce of colcothar, f pint of 
 the glue solution with f ounce of sepia, 
 and the rest with 5i ounces of zinc 
 white. 
 
 e. Compound 1 pint of the glue 
 solution with 1 ounce of quite concen- 
 trated and filtered solution of aniline 
 black, and the rest with 6i ounces of 
 zinc white. 
 
 /. Mix i pint of the glue solution 
 with | ounce of colcothar, i pint of 
 the glue solution with f ounce of yellow 
 
 \ ochre, i pint of the glue solution with 
 S ounce of sepia, and the rest with 4& 
 
 i ounces of zinc white. 
 
 g. Mix 1 pint of the glue solution 
 with \\ ounces of lampblack. For 
 gray add sufficient zinc white to pro- 
 duce the desired shade. The rest of 
 the glue solution is mixed with 6^ 
 ounces of zinc white. 
 
 h. Mix pint of the glue solution 
 with $ ounce of umber, pint of the 
 
 I glue solution with J ounce of bole, i 
 
 !" pint of the glue solution with f ounce 
 of ochre, and the rest with 4-i ounces of 
 zinc white. 
 
 i. For Enamels mix 1 pint of the 
 glue solution with 1 ounce of ultra- 
 marine, and the rest with 6 ounces of 
 zinc white. 
 
 k. Mix 1 pint of the glue solution 
 with U ounces of chrome green, and the 
 rest with 6i ounces of zinc white. 
 
 For imitating mother-of-pearl veneers 
 ounce of silver bronze, which need 
 not be genuine, is ground with a little 
 glue or water and intimately mixed 
 with the above solution of glue. The 
 bronze powder must not be in a dry 
 state when stirred into the glue, as 
 
 ! lumps would be formed and the veneers 
 become spotted. In place of bronze, 
 essence of fish scales, which is of course 
 a great deal more costly, can be used. 
 The solution of glue thus prepared is 
 then compounded with different aniline 
 colors, according to the coloring de- 
 sired. 
 
 a. For preparing yellowish veneers 
 the glue solution is used without au 
 
180 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 addition of some coloring matter, or 
 with an addition of some solution of 
 picric acid. 
 
 b. For colorless veneers, or those of 
 slightly reddish tints, a smaller or 
 greater number of drops of a concen- 
 trated solution of fuchsine are added, 
 which counteracts the yellowish tint of 
 the glue. For these imitations of 
 mother-of-pearl veneers a concentrated 
 solution of gelatine compounded with 
 15 per cent, of glycerine can be em- 
 ployed, especially when essence of fish 
 scales is used. 
 
 c. For Blue the glue solution is com- 
 pounded with " bleu, de Lyons," but the 
 greatest care must be exercised not to 
 use too much, as otherwise the imitation 
 becomes indistinct. The right degree 
 of coloring can be tested by allowing a 
 few drops of the colored glue solution 
 to fall upon a glass plate. 
 
 d. For Red, solution of fuchsine or 
 carmine is used. The latter is obtained 
 by dissolving commercial carmine pow- 
 der in alcohol. 
 
 e. Orange colors are produced by an 
 add ition of a solution of vesuvine ; violet 
 by adding dahlia violet. For these, as 
 well as for the solution colored with 
 fuchsine, the plates must not be rubbed 
 with oil, as even the smallest trace of 
 oil discolors these colors in drying, or 
 at least the veneers will show colorless 
 spots. The different shades of gray are 
 obtained bv adding more or less of solu- 
 tion of aniline black which has been 
 previously filtered. 
 
 3. Pouring the Colored Glue Solutions 
 upon the Plates. For imitations of 
 marble and enamel the glass plates, 
 rubbed with oil, are placed in a hori- 
 zontal position with the rubbed surface 
 up. The proper portion of the white 
 ground mnss, after it has become some- 
 what thickish, is then poured upon the 
 plates, and the gaps left free in pouring 
 filled in and smoothed with an instru- 
 ment resembling a knife made of horn 
 or bone. Upon this white ground the 
 respective colored solutions of glue are 
 then poured in zigzag form, parallel 
 veins, or spots, and, according to the 
 desired design, drawn through the 
 ground with a glass rod. If several 
 differently colored glue solutions are to 
 be applied, as given, for instance, under 
 2/, they should be poured out in quick 
 
 succession, so that the succeeding color 
 runs into the preceding, or that a white 
 strip or spot remains between each 
 color. The whole is then intermingled 
 with the glass rod according to the de- 
 sign. If the latter is to have sharply 
 defined lines and spots, the respective 
 glue solution is used somewhat thicker ; 
 but if, on the other hand, the design is 
 to be somewhat blended, the glue solu- 
 tions are used somewhat warmer. The 
 plates, when the glue has become solid, 
 are placed, until further treatment, in 
 a cool place tor 2 or 3 hours. 
 
 Imitations of malachite are prepared 
 in a similar manner. Four glue solu- 
 tions, with different shades of green to 
 the lightest tint, are prepared, and these 
 solutions poured upon a slightly green- 
 ish-colored ground in imitation of the 
 curves and veins peculiar to malachite, 
 and these curves and veins are then 
 traced with a comb with teeth which 
 stand at unequal distances from each 
 other. 
 
 The glass plates set aside to be used 
 for imitations of mother-of-pearl are 
 now taken in hand. The glue solu- 
 tions must be kept warm in a water- 
 bath and thoroughly stirred every time 
 before pouring them upon the plates, 
 and the formation of a skin on the sur- 
 face of the glue must be strictly avoided. 
 For pouring out the solutions it is best 
 to use a porcelain dish with a spout 
 and a handle, and having a capacity of 
 about 12 cubic inches. The portion of 
 glue solution required for each plate (1| 
 fluid ounces) is now measured into the 
 porcelain dish and, after allowing it to 
 stand a little while, is poured upon the 
 plate and uniformly distributed. The 
 production of the mother-of-pearl de- 
 sign requires some skill and practice. 
 A comb with teeth set A inch apart is 
 used for the purpose. It is held in a 
 somewhat oblique position, the teeth 
 are gently pressed upon the elass plate, 
 and with frequent turnings of the comb 
 at a right angle cycloidal motion exe- 
 cuted. The treatment is commenced 
 from the front to the back edge of the 
 plate, and when the glue begins to 
 thicken on the edges, continued at the 
 softer places until the desired design is 
 produced. The places, after the glue 
 has acquired the necessary degree of 
 solidity, must not be retouched with the 
 
IMITATIONS, SUBSTITUTES, ETC. 
 
 181 
 
 comb. When a'll the plates have been 
 treated in this manner they are then 
 set aside in a cool place for 2 or 3 
 hours. 
 
 4. Transferring the Layer of Glue to 
 a Layer of Gelatine. For each dozen 
 of veneers soak 2 ounces of gelatine, 
 and then melt them in a water-bath 
 and add glycerine equal to 10 per cent, 
 of the gelatine and let the mixture 
 settle. 
 
 The glass plates treated with colco- 
 tharand Spanish chalk (soapstone) are 
 now placed in a horizontal position ; 1 
 gill of the gelatine solution is poured 
 upon them and the gaps filled in 
 by means of the glass rod. The 
 front edge of the plate covered with 
 the coiored layers of glue is now, 
 glne side down, laid exactly upon the 
 Irout edge of the gelatine plate, while 
 the back edge of the former is gradually 
 lowered until the glue plate lies firmly 
 upon the gelatine plate. We will here 
 remark that the gelatine solution must 
 only be cooled off so far that the glue 
 will not melt on touching it; if it is 
 cooler the veneers will be blistered. It 
 must further be looked to that, before 
 placing the first plate upon the gelatine 
 plate, no gelatine escapes, but that any 
 excess of the latter only runs off after 
 the back edge of the first plate touches 
 that of the latter. 
 
 The plates are now allowed to rest 
 quietly until the gelatine is congealed, 
 when they are removed to a cool place, 
 where they remain 5 or 6 hours. 
 
 The imitations of mother-of-pearl are 
 treated in the same manner with the 
 exception that the gelatine solution is 
 colored with the same coloring matter 
 as the glue solution. For the colorless 
 or yellowish veneers the gelatine solu- 
 tion is not colored. 
 
 After 6 hours the first glass plate is 
 detached from the layer of glue by 
 loosening the latter around the edge 
 with a knife blade, and the plate grad- 
 ually lifted off, commencing at one cor- 
 ner. With some care this is easily 
 accomplished without detaching the 
 gelatine layer. 
 
 5. Drying and Detaching the Veneers. 
 The veneers, with the gelatine layers 
 still adhering to the glass plates, are i 
 now dried. This is effected in a heated j 
 tooin, in which the veneers are ar- 1 
 
 ; ranged upon frames, so that they stand 
 f almost perpendicularly. The hot air 
 enters near the ceiling of the room, 
 while the moist air is sucked away near 
 the fioor. The temperature of the low- 
 est zone, where the fresh plates are 
 placed, should not exceed 08 F. The 
 plates are moved higher up every day 
 until, on the third or fourth day, they 
 have become entirely dry. The veneers, 
 before removing them from the room, 
 must be tested in regard to their dry- 
 ness. They are sufficiently dry when v 
 on pressing the finger nail upon the 
 glue, no impression is made. 
 
 The plates, after removal from the 
 room, are allowed to cool off for at least 
 2 hours before the veneers are detached 
 from the glass plates. The operation 
 begins by detaching the gelatine layer 
 on the edges with a very thin knife 
 blade. The operator then takes hold 
 of one corner of the veneer and draws 
 it gradually and careiully from the 
 glass plate. The edges of the veneers 
 are then trimmed and they are ready 
 for use. 
 
 If the veneers are to resist the action 
 of water, mix with the solution of gel- 
 atine, compounded with glycerine, 
 fluid ounce of a solution of 5 parts of 
 chrome alum in 100 parts of water to 
 every plate, and immerse the veneers 
 for a short time after they have been 
 detached from the first plate in a sim- 
 ilar solution of chrome alum. 
 
 The veneers prepared by these meth- 
 ods can be used for various purposes in 
 architecture and in the manufacture of 
 furniture, also for coating columns, for 
 inlaid work, etc. It is recommended 
 to add some glycerine to the glue with 
 which they are to be fastened to the 
 articles, as this will prevent them from 
 blistering and coming off. 
 
 Gelatine Foils are variously colored 
 leaves of gelatine about as thick as a 
 sheet of paper. Their production forms 
 a special branch of industry in France 
 and England, where large quantities of 
 them are produced, either simply col- 
 ored or painted with neat designs in gold 
 or silver. If but one side of the foil is 
 to be glossy, the solutions are poured 
 upon a glass plate and dried, but if both 
 sides are to be glossy they are dried be- 
 tween two glass plates. 
 The manufacture is quite simple. Al 
 
182 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 low pure gelatine to swell up in water, 
 then pour oft' the water and dissolve 
 the remaining jelly over the water-bath. 
 Allow the solution to cool somewhat, 
 and then add the coloring matter pre- 
 viously dissolved in water. 
 
 In place of pure gelatine a solution 
 of ordinary bone glue may be used. 
 Add to every 6 pounds of glue i ounce 
 of oxalic acid dissolved in water, which 
 will clarify the solution. To make the 
 foil more pliable add also 1 pint of spirit 
 of wine and i ounce of rock candy, or a 
 small quantity of glycerine. 
 
 For coloring the solutions it is best to 
 use the aniline colors soluble in water; 
 for red, fuchsine; for blue, J3leu de 
 Parme; for violet, Hofmann's violet; 
 for green, aldehyde green ; for yellow, 
 picric acid, and for the various shades 
 mixtures of the above colors. 
 
 The gelatine solutions are poured up- 
 on ground-glass plates which have been 
 previously cleansed with elutriated col- 
 cothar and rubbed with Spanish chalk. 
 The f >ils become so smooth upon the 
 glass side that they can be drawn off 
 without much difficulty. In many re- 
 spects their' manufacture resembles that 
 of " Imitation of Veneers," to which we 
 refer the reader. 
 
 Gelatine foils are used for printing 
 sacred images, visiting cards, and labels, 
 for fancy articles, and in the manufact- 
 ure of artificial flowers. 
 
 SoreVs /Substitutes for Gutta-percha 
 and Caoutchouc. I. Mix colophony 2 
 parts, pitch or asphaltum 2, rosin oil 8, 
 calcium hydrate 6, water 3, alumina 10, 
 and gutta-percha 12. Heat the colo- 
 phony, pitch, and rosin oil in a boiler 
 and stir until the resin and pitch are 
 dissolved. Then stir the calcium hy- 
 drate into a thin paste with water, add 
 it to the above mixture and heat the 
 mass again, stirring constantly. When 
 all are intimately mixed add the gutta- 
 percha cut in small pieces. Then con- 
 tinue heating and stirring until the 
 gutta-percha is liquefied, and then add 
 the alumina previously pulverized and 
 mixed with water. As soon as this is 
 equally distributed in the mixture, re- 
 move the excess of water and bring the 
 whole to the boiling point. If any more 
 water separates remove it, then knead 
 the composition with fresh water, and 
 finally pass it through rollers. To 
 
 make the composition entirely water- 
 proof, add 5 per cent, of stearic acid. 
 
 II. Pitch 8 parts, rosin oil 4, cal- 
 cium hydrate 6, and gutta-percha 16. 
 
 III. Pitch 12 parts, calcium hy- 
 drate 6, gutta-percha 16. 
 
 IV. Coal-tar 12 parts, calcium hy- 
 drate 6, gutta-percha 16. 
 
 The above compositions are used 
 for manufacturing water-proof articles, 
 tubes, machine belts, water-proof boots 
 and shoes, etc. If greater tenacity is to 
 be imparted to the compositions add 
 fibrous substances, as cotton, wool, 
 hemp, etc. 
 
 ' To Give to Various Articles the Lus- 
 tre of Mother-of-pearl. Take solution 
 of copal 2 parts, sandarac 2, solution 
 of dammar 4, rosin 1, and absolute 
 alcohol 1. Mix the ingredients with 
 i their volume of oils of bergamot or 
 rosemary, and reduce it by distillation 
 to the consistency of castor-oil. By ap- 
 plying this varnish with a feather or 
 brush to the surface of water, a beauti- 
 ful iridescent film will be formed, which 
 is laid on the articles to be made iri- 
 descent. The vessel filled with water, 
 upon which the film is produced, must 
 be as large or larger than the article to 
 be coated. Add to the water about 5 
 per cent, of pure glue solution, and keep 
 it at a temperature of about 70 F. 
 
 Substitute for Slate. Convert black 
 slate into a fine powder, sift the powder 
 and rub it with water upon a stone. 
 When dry rub it again with the muller 
 and then add to 8 parts of the si ate - 
 powder 1 part of lampblack, mix thor- 
 oughly with glue water, and boil the 
 whole over a moderate fire. Then ap- 
 ply a thin and uniform layer of the 
 composition to bristol-board or thick 
 paper, let it dry, and repeat the process 
 until the coat has the proper thickness ; 
 then pumice it and finally apply a coat 
 of infusion of gall-nuts. 
 
 Bertolio's Substitute for Meerschaum. 
 Cut carbonate of magnesia in small 
 pieces, place them for a few days in a 
 hot solution of silicate of potash, and 
 then dry them. Repeat this operation 
 several times, using in place of silicate 
 of potash, fresh, hot solution of water- 
 glass, and finally expose the pieces to 
 the air for a few months. Pieces treated 
 in this way will become hard enough 
 in 6 to 7 months to be worked, and are 
 
IMITATIONS, SUBSTITUTES, ETC. ' 
 
 183 
 
 a close imitation of the genuine meer- 
 schaum. 
 
 To Prepare. Ratan to be used in the 
 Manufacture of Corsets. Ratan is 
 much used as a substitute for whale- 
 bone in the manufacture of corsets. 
 To prevent the material from staining 
 the corset when washed, boil the ribs be- 
 fore inserting them in a solution of 1 
 part of calcium chloride in 30 of water 
 for i hour, stirring constantly. Then 
 add 1 part of alum, boil again with 
 constant stirring for i hour, and then 
 wash and rewash them in 'water, and 
 finally bleach them in the sun. 
 
 Composition for Cane Heads. Gun 
 and Pistol /Stocks, etc. To 2 pounds of 
 caoutchouc, previously soaked and 
 kneaded, add 1 pound each of mag- 
 nesia, coal-tar, and roll sulphur, and 
 81 ounces of flowers of sulphur. Press 
 the mixture in moulds and heat to 250 
 to 365 F. 
 
 Sdren-Sorensen's Imitations of 
 Leather are prepared from waste of 
 caoutchouc and leather. The leather 
 waste is freed from all foreign substances 
 and then converted by machinery into 
 a homogeneous fibrous material. By 
 treating this with ammoniacal liquor a 
 gelatinous compound is formed which, 
 after pressing in moulds or rolled out 
 in plates, gives a very hard and stiff 
 . product of considerable cohesiveness 
 but without elasticity, and soluble in 
 water. To make the material elastic 
 and capable of resisting the action of 
 water it is mixed with caoutchouc. 
 The latter is washed, dried, then cut up 
 in small pieces and dissolved in oil of 
 turpentine or other suitable solvent. 
 The leather treated with ammoniacal 
 liquor and the solution of caoutchouc 
 are mixed, the mixture made homo- 
 geneous by kneading, and the product 
 pressed in moulds or rolled into plates. 
 The proportions depend on the kind of 
 material to be produced. Thus : 
 
 For Soles. Twenty-five parts of solid 
 caoutchouc, 67 of leather waste, and 67 
 of ammoniacal liquor. 
 
 For Heels. Twenty-five parts of 
 solid caoutchouc, 80 of leather waste, 
 and 80 of ammoniacal liquor. 
 
 For Insoles. Twenty-five parts of 
 solid caoutchouc, 90 of leather waste, 
 and 75 of ammoniacal liquor. 
 
 Imitation of Marble for Plastic Or- 
 
 naments and Picture Frames. Boil li 
 pounds of good glue into a thick: solution, 
 stir into it 10 ounces of rosin or, 
 still better, Venetian turpentine. Mix 
 finely-ground mineral color in a dry 
 state with powdered French chalk to the 
 color of the marble to be imitated, and 
 stir enough of it into the above glue so- 
 i lution to make a stiff paste, and then 
 add a few drops of pure olive oil. Press 
 the mass in stone or gypsum moulds, or 
 roll into thin plates. Cut the plates to 
 the desired patterns, glue them on, and 
 allow them to dry. The mass becomes 
 hard as stone. Any porous places 
 which may be found are filled in with 
 the same composition diluted, and the 
 j whole is finally coated with natural 
 j or white polish. By wrapping the com- 
 position in a damp linen cloth, it can 
 be kept for a long time. When it is to 
 be used, place it in a pot heated by 
 steam, when it will become again plas- 
 tic. Imitations of marbles of 2 or more 
 colors can be produced by mixing dif- 
 ferently colored compositions together. 
 To Dye Hard-nut Shell Buttons. 
 Sort the buttons, selecting the whitest 
 for light fancy colors and the more 
 yellowish and yellow ones for brown 
 and black. Then cleanse the buttons 
 thoroughly by washing with hot water, 
 and mordant them with acetate of iron, 
 copper, or lead, or aluminium. They 
 are then dyed. 
 
 Coal Black. Dissolve by boiling 10 
 pounds of extract of logwood in 25 gal- 
 j Ions of water, place the buttons in the 
 ! bath, and work them in it for i hour at 
 190 F. Then take them out, place 
 them in a bath of iron liquor, work 
 them ^ hour, expose to the air for 2 to 
 3 hours, then bring them in a bath con- 
 sisting of 2 ounces of potassium chro- 
 mate and 6 gallons of water, and finally 
 rinse them thoroughly with water. 
 
 Brown. Dissolve 5 pounds of pre- 
 pared catechu in 2 gallons of water, and 
 when the solution is clear, add to every 
 gallon of it 6 gallons of water, heat the 
 mixture in a boiler to 100 F., throw 
 the buttons in, and heat the bath for i 
 hour to 190 F., stirring constantly. 
 Then allow them to cool, work them 
 for i hour in a bath of 8| ounces of 
 potassium chromate dissolved in 6 gal- 
 lons of water, and finally rinse them 
 thoroughly with water. 
 
184 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Dark Brown. Add more or less of 
 logwood liquor of 4 B. 
 
 Gray and Fancy Colors. Boil 10 
 pounds of gall-nuts converted into a 
 coarse powder or sumach, with 8 gallons 
 of water, and pour 3 quarts of this in- 
 fusion into the dye boiler and add 1 
 gallons of water. Heat the bath to 
 120 to 145 F., stir the buttons in it for 
 i hour, and then place them in a bath 
 of iron liquor of 4 B. for 20 to 30 min- 
 utes. After taking them from the bath 
 spread them out in the air. By treating 
 the buttons with the different mordants 
 mentioned above, and adding a little 
 liquor of logwood, Brazil wood, fustic, 
 or other liquors, all possible faucy 
 colors can be produced. 
 
 Olive Colors are produced by dyeing 
 with a strong infusion of quercitron 
 with a mordant of alum, then passing 
 them through a strong iron mordant, 
 and finally again through the dye bath. 
 For producing shell colors, place 5 to 6 
 dozens of buttons flat upon a board and 
 sprinkle them with spirit lacquer by 
 means of a watering-pot. When the 
 lacquer is dry, dye the buttons in the 
 manner indicated above, but the tem- 
 perature of the bath must not exceed 
 95 to 110 F., since at a higher tem- 
 perature the lacquer would dissolve. 
 When dyed, bring the buttons in a 
 warm soda bath, which dissolves the 
 lacquer, and the places formerly cov- 
 ered by it will appear white upon a 
 colored ground. In this manner any 
 design can be executed in all colors. 
 
 For Coloring with Aniline Colors, 
 place the buttons first in a mordant con- 
 sisting of a solution of 1 ounce of tan- 
 nin in 6 gallons of hot water, allow 
 them to remain for i hour, and then 
 bring them into the aniline dye-bath, 
 heated to 120 to 145 F. 
 
 Blue. Use aniline blue soluble in 
 water. 
 
 Red. Fuchsine. 
 
 Scarlet. Fuchsine or, better, saffron- 
 ine after the buttons have been dyed 
 pale yellow with fustic and tin mor- 
 dant. 
 
 Green. Use methyl or malachite green, 
 with an addition of fustic liquor or pic- 
 ric acid if more or less yellowish -green 
 colors are to be produced. The buttons 
 dyed with aniline colors need not be 
 rinsed with water. They are then thor- 
 
 I oughly dried in a warm place, and fin- 
 | ally polished in a drum with chalk and 
 bore chips. 
 
 INDIGO, INDIGOTINE, AND ALIZA- 
 KINE. 
 
 Crystallized Indigo. In preparing 
 this the oxidation of sugar is made use 
 of in the following manner: Place in a 
 suitable small flask, with a well-ground 
 stopper, ounce of finely-pulverized 
 indigo, li ounces of a strongly concrn- 
 I trated solution of caustic soda in spirit 
 of wine; then fill the flask with boiling 
 spirit of wine 0.880 specific gravity, pre- 
 viously saturated with glucose or honey. 
 Shake the mixture thoroughly and let 
 I it rest. Then draw off the supernatant 
 ! clear fluid with a siphon into an open 
 i glass vessel and expose it to the action 
 of atmospheric air. The changff of 
 I color which takes place is remarkable 
 j and interesting. A precipitate of pure 
 i indigo is formed which is at first red, 
 j then becomes violet, and finally is 
 ; transformed into blue. This, after fil- 
 tering and washing with spirit of wine 
 and hot water, is dried, and yields 
 about i of 1 per cent, of crystallized 
 indigo blue. By this process the for- 
 eign substances remain either undis- 
 splved, or, if dissolved, remain in solu- 
 tion while the indigo is -precipitated. 
 
 Indigo-carmine. Place in a porce- 
 lain or earthen pot 1 part of best indigo, 
 finely pulverized, and 1 part each of 
 fuming and ordinary sulphuric acid, 
 and stir constantly to avoid too strong 
 ! heating. Then cover the vessel and let 
 it stand for 24 hours. When all the 
 indigo has been dissolved, which may 
 be recognized by a drop taken from the 
 pot and thrown into a glassful of 
 water, coloring the latter blue without 
 forming a precipitate, pour the solution 
 into water, dilute it to 18 B., filter 
 and precipitate the indigo-carmine with 
 carbonate of potash or soda ; collect the 
 precipitate upon a filter of wool or felt 
 and let it drain off. Pure blue-carmine 
 is soluble in pure water, but not in 
 water containing salt. 
 
 Acetate of Indigo. Dissolve 1 pound 
 of indigo in sulphuric acid, mix the 
 solution with i gallon of waiter, then 
 add a solution of 7i pounds of sugar of 
 
INDIGO, INDIGOTINE, AND ALIZARINE. 
 
 185 
 
 lead, stir thoroughly, add pound of 
 quicklime slaked in 1 quart of water, 
 filter when cold, and wash. The addi- 
 tion of lime removes the free sulphuric 
 acid from the mixture, which is too 
 strong for many fabrics, especially fine 
 cotton goods. 
 
 Indigo-violet. Indigo gives a beauti- 
 ful pure violet color by mixing 1 part 
 of pure indigo with 5 of sulphuric acid 
 and heating the mixture from 88 to 
 100 F. Dilute the resulting fluid with 
 10 parts of water, and by filtering it tiie 
 violet-indigo will remain upon the filter. 
 By washing this with a concentrated 
 solution of carbonate of soda a durable 
 and beautiful violet color is obtained, 
 while a dirty, greenish fluid runs off. 
 
 all parts are subjected to an equal tem- 
 perature, which would not be the case 
 if steam was only conducted into the 
 cylinder containing the gariincine. 
 'The steam passes from the boiler 
 through a cast-iron pipe j laced in a 
 furnace, and before coming in contact 
 with thegarancine is conducted through 
 a globular reservoir divided into 2 parts 
 bv a perforated division and provided 
 with a thermometer. On the steam- 
 pipe are placed cocks, by means ol 
 which the progress of the operation it 
 regulated and, what sometimes may be- 
 come necessary, the steam conducted 
 directly to the product. Some alizarine 
 is carried away with the condensed 
 water, which can be used in dyeing. 
 
 Fig. 27. 
 
 Indigo-carmine in the Form of Ex- 
 tract. Pour 4 parts of concentrated 
 sulphuric acid over 1 of the best dry 
 indigo finely pulverized, stirring con- 
 stantly ; let the mixture stand for 24 
 hours,' dilute with water, and filter 
 through a flannel cloth. Precipitate 
 the blue fluid with 4 parts of common 
 salt and collect the precipitate. 
 
 Kopp's Process of Gaining Indigotine 
 a 'nd Alizarine. By treating madder 
 with sulphuric acid garancine is pro- 
 duced. This is used for the production 
 of alizarine. It need not be as care- 
 fully washed as when used for dyeing. 
 The garancine is placed in a metal cyl- 
 inder surrounded by another cylinder 
 into which superheated steam is con- 
 ducted, while ordinary steam is passed 
 through the garancine. By these means 
 
 By this process the alizarine is not 
 gained in prisms but in grains. Indigo, 
 when heated, volatilizes in purple va- 
 pors condensing in prisms having a deep 
 blue color with a purple lustre. This 
 is the indigotine. Indigotine can also 
 be obtained synthetically by heating 
 the syrupy modification of methyl 
 nitro-phenyl ketone until it is converted 
 into a solid'mass, which, when carefully 
 heated with soda lime and zinc dust, 
 yields a small quantity of indigotine. 
 
 The Apparatus. Fig. 27 represents 
 Kopp's apparatus for preparing indigo- 
 tine and alizarine. a is the steam- 
 boiler, b the steam-pipe, c the furnace 
 for superheating the steam, which passes 
 into the furnace from the pipe b through 
 the pipe d, and passes out througJi the 
 pipe e. g h are cocks for regulating the 
 
186 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 current of steam. When the cock g is 
 closed and the cock h open, the steam 
 passes from the boiler into the super- 
 heating apparatus and acquires there a 
 temperature of 570 to 660 F., but, 
 when the cock g is open and h closed, 
 passes directly to the chambers m, and 
 finally, when both cocks are half open, 
 half of the steam is superheated while 
 the other half remains in the ordinary 
 condition, and both enter the chamber 
 m, where they mix. The globular cast- 
 iron chamber m is divided into 2 parts 
 by a perforated division indicated in the 
 illustration. The object of this is to 
 mix the superheated and ordinary steam. 
 In one of the partitions of the chamber 
 is placed a thermometer, i, which indi- 
 cates the temperature of the mixed 
 steam. The pipes must be all covered 
 with non-conductors. The copper cyl- 
 inder / contains the dry garancine in 
 pieces as large as a nut, and is placed 
 between 2 partitions. It communicates 
 with the chamber m by a pipe provided 
 with the cock k. n is a cylinder sur- 
 rounding the cylinder/ and connected 
 with the chamber m by a pipe provided 
 with the cock I, through which the 
 steam is introduced into the cylinder /. 
 The excess of steam is conveyed into 
 the open air through a pipe provided 
 with the cock n. R is the cooling ap- 
 paratus into which pass the products 
 of distillation through the pipe p, which 
 communicates with the cylinder /. 
 
 The Operation. After the furnace 
 for superheating the steam has acquired 
 a temperature of 660 F., and the cylin- 
 der / has been filled with garancine, 
 superheated steam, the temperature of 
 which is gradually raised to 356 F., is 
 allowed to circulate in the cylinder n. 
 The cylinder / and the garancine soon 
 acquire both a uniform temperature, 
 when by opening the cock k the super- 
 heated steam is admitted to this cylin- 
 der. The temperature of the steam is 
 then raised to 392 F., next to 445 F., 
 and finally to 465 F. The sublima- 
 tion and distillation of the alizarine 
 commences at 390 F. It volatilizes in 
 orange-yellow vapors condensing to a 
 powder of the same color. The cool- 
 ing apparatus may be divided in 2 
 parts, 1 of which is kept at a tempera- 
 ture of nearly 212 F., while the other 
 is entirely cooled off. The greatest part 
 
 of the alizarine condenses in the first. 
 When distillation is finished the ali- 
 zarine is collected upon a filter. 
 
 The property of alizarine to form in- 
 soluble colored m'etallic compounds is 
 made use of in dyeing and printing. 
 To produce madder colors on calico the 
 desired pattern is printed on the cloth 
 as mordant. For pinks and reds a solu- 
 tion of aluminium acetate which is 
 thickened with gum or starch is used, 
 and for purples and blacks, ferrous ace- 
 tate (iron liquor) is employed, while a 
 mixture of the 2 salts produces brown 
 or chocolate colors. The mordanted 
 cloth is next hung up in a warm, airy 
 room, whereby the acetic acid is ex- 
 pelled and the oxides are fixed in the 
 fibre. The cloth is now brought into 
 the dye-bath, consisting of boiling water 
 and old ground madder root ; the ali- 
 zarine is gradually dissolved and ab- 
 sorbed by the oxides. 
 
 Artificial Alizarine is chiefly used for 
 " topical " printing; for this purpose it 
 is printed together with the mordant on 
 the cloth, which is then steamed or 
 heated to 212 F. ; the alizarine dissolves 
 in the free acetic acid, which soon vola- 
 tilizes, while the alizarine combines with 
 the oxides. The colors thus produced 
 are more brilliant than those obtained 
 by dyeing with madder. 
 
 As artificial alizarine is now brought 
 into commerce in a pure state, and in a 
 paste of 10 per cent, concentration, we 
 give in the following a few receipts for 
 printing colors based upon a 10 per cent, 
 paste of alizarine, which have been 
 tested and given excellent results : 
 
 Dark Red. Alizarine o& pounds, in- 
 spissation (see below) 17i pounds, alu- 
 minium acetate of 10 B. 1 pound, cal- 
 cium acetate of 16 B. 81 ounces. 
 
 Rose Color is obtained by brightening 
 the above with the inspissation for red. 
 Articles, the first print on which is dark 
 red, must, before smoothing, be steamed 
 for 1 hour. After over printing they 
 are again steamed for 1 hour, hung up 
 for 24 hours, and then drawn for 1 to 
 H minutes through one of the following 
 baths: Water 220 gallons, chalk 06 
 pounds, tin salt 3 pounds. Or, water 
 264 gallons, chalk 44 pounds, and 
 sodium arseniate 11 pounds. The bath 
 should have a temperature of 120 to 
 145 F. The pieces are then washed 
 
INKS. LITHOGRAPHIC, PRINTING AND WRITING. 187 
 
 and brightened. For 10 pieces of 50 
 yards: 1. Soap: 3 pounds of soap, 4 
 ounces of tin salt at 122 F. for 4 hour. 
 2. Soap : 3 pounds of soap without tin 
 salt at Ki7 F. for 4 hour. 3. Soap : 
 3 pounds of soap without tin salt at lt>7 
 to 176 F. for 4 hour. The fabrics, 
 after passing through 1 soap bath, 
 must be washed before placing them in 
 the next. 
 
 fngpiggation for Red. Boil thor- 
 oughly 13 pounds of wheat starch, 5 
 gallons of water, 3 quarts of acetic acid 
 of 6 B., 24 gallons of gum tragacanth 
 mucilage, and 3 pounds of olive oil. 
 
 The gum tragacanth mucilage is pre- 
 pared by dissolving 10 ounces of the 
 guin to every gallon of water. 
 
 Aluminium Acetate. Mix 3 pounds 
 of aluminium hydrate with 14 gallons 
 of acetic acid, heat the mixture and 
 filter, and dilute it afterwards to any 
 desired degree. / 
 
 Aluminium Hydrate. Dissolve 80 
 pounds of alum in 100 gallons of water 
 
 and precipitate it with a solution of 68 
 pounds of soda in 100 gallons of water. 
 Wash the precipitate 8 times by decan- 
 
 tation, then collect it upon a filter and 
 finally press it out. A 10 per cent, 
 paste generally requires an addition of 
 20 per cent, of its weight of aluminium 
 acetate of 12 B. 
 
 Solution of Calcium Acetate of 16 
 B. contains 25 per cent, of calcium ace- 
 tate. For alizarine paste thoroughly 
 washed out, 10 per cent, of its weight 
 of the solution will be required, but it 
 is advisable to ascertain by a test the 
 necessary addition of calcium acetate 
 to every portion of alizarine. 
 
 Printing Colors for Red and Violet 
 Articles by using a Paste containing 10 
 per cent, of dry Dyestuff. Eight and 
 three-fourth pounds of alizarine, 2 gal- 
 lons of inspissation (see above), 10 
 ounces of aluminium nitrate of 15 B., 
 14 pounds of aluminium acetate of 10 
 B., and 14 ounces of calcium acetate of 
 10 B. 
 
 Very Dark Red. Ten pounds of ali- 
 zarine, 2 gallons of inspissation (see 
 above), 14 ounces of aluminium nitrate 
 of 15 B., 14 pounds of aluminium ace- 
 tate of 10 B., and 1 pound of calcium 
 acetate of 16 B. 
 
 Aluminium Nitrate. Three and a 
 half ounces of lead nitrate, 2 pounds of 
 
 ' alum, and 4 gallon of water. By using 
 aluminium nitrate the red becomes 
 more yellow than when aluminium ace- 
 tate is employed, the former requiring 
 also more calcium acetate than the 
 latter. 
 
 Another Red without Oil. Boil thor- 
 oughly alizarine 9i pounds, acetic 
 acid of 8 B. 104 pounds, flour 4 
 pounds, water 4 gallon; stir until cold 
 and then add calcium acetate of lb' 
 B. 17 ounces, aluminium nitrate 2 
 pounds, and calcium hyposulphite of 
 9 B. 3 pounds. 
 
 Violet Printing Color. Alizarine 3 
 pounds, inspissation (see below) 24 
 gallons, methyl acetate of iron of 12 
 B. 7 ounces, and calcium acetate of 
 16 B. 13 ounces. 
 
 Violet Inspiration. Boil thoroughly 
 10 pounds of starch, 4 gallons of water, 
 2gallonsof mucilage of gum tragacanth, 
 2^ ounces of gum to every quart of 
 water, 24 quarts of acetic acid of 6 B., 
 and 2 pounds of olive oil, and stir until 
 cold. 
 
 The printed fabric is steamed for 1 
 to 2 hours at a pressure of half an 
 atmosphere and hung up for 24 to 36 
 hours. It is then passed for 14 to 2 
 hours through the following bath at a 
 temperature of 120 to 145 F. : Water 
 220 gallons, chalk 44 pounds, sodium 
 arseniate 11 pounds. It is then washed 
 and soaped at 145 to 167 F. for 1 hour, 
 with 34 pounds of soap for every 10 
 pieces, each 50 yards long. It is then 
 washed, dried, and finally, if necessary, 
 slightly chloridated. 
 
 Geitner's Alizarine Liquor. Pour 
 over 4 part of madder root cut up in a 
 matrass, 6 parts of alcohol of 94 per 
 cent., and let it digest for 24 hours at an 
 ordinary temperature, shaking it fre- 
 quently. By filtering through blotting- 
 paper a clear brownish-yellow tincture 
 is obtained which is known as " * 7 "~ 
 arine Liquor." 
 
 Alaz- 
 
 INKS. LITHOGRAPHIC, PRINTING 
 AND WRITING. 
 
 Good printing-ink possesses the fol- 
 lowing properties: A homogeneous 
 mass of a glossy black color, unchanged 
 by exposure for a considerable time to 
 the air, and quickly drying after print- 
 
188 
 
 TECHNO CHEMICAL EECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 ing ; of a consistency sufficient to pre- 
 vent its penetrating too deep into the 
 paper to blur the appearance of print- 
 ing on the other side. Linseed oil is 
 the principal ingredient in the manu- 
 facture of printing-ink. The oil should 
 be of good quality, as an inferior article 
 gives a bad smell and rusty shade of 
 color. The oil is refined by being 
 mixed with a small percentage of con- 
 centrated sulphuric acid and heated 
 for a few hours at a temperature not 
 exceeding 212 F., and allowed to settle, 
 after which it is drawn off from the 
 sulphuric acid and repeatedly washed 
 with warm water until every trace of 
 , the acid is removed. The oil, if treated 
 in the right manner, should have a light 
 yellow color and be entirely free from 
 smell. It must be protected from the 
 air, as in this condition it will dry very 
 quickly. 
 
 The refined oil is then heated to such 
 a degree that a part of it becomes de- 
 composed. Specially constructed ves- 
 sels must be used for this purpose, as 
 the volume of the oil increases in an 
 extraordinary degree in consequence of 
 the many bubbles which are formed. 
 The most suitable apparatus used for 
 this purpose is represented in Fig. 28. 
 It consists of a cylinder of sheet iron. 
 A rim bent upwards like a shell is 
 placed about half way up on the sides 
 of the cylinder. The top of the cylinder 
 is surrounded by a strong iron ring on 
 which are fastened the chains of a 
 tackle which enables the attendants to 
 lift the cylinder quickly from the fire- 
 place. A helmet or cover of sheet iron, 
 fitting as air-tight as possible, com- 
 pletes the apparatus, which should be 
 erected in a fire-proof room. A flue 
 connected with a well-drawing chimney 
 is placed in the roof of the building to 
 carry off the injurious vapors arising 
 from the boiling linseed oil. The 
 workman should be provided with a 
 stool high enough to enable him con- 
 veniently to take samples out of the 
 cylinder. The chains of the tackle are 
 fastened to a movable crane so that at 
 the word of command an assistant can 
 lift the cylinder immediately from the 
 fire and move it aside. The cylinder 
 is filled only half full with oil, a strong 
 fire being kept under it at the com- 
 mencement of the work. The oil will 
 
 soon commence to bubble, making a 
 crackling noise. This is caused by the 
 
 Fig. 28. 
 
 escape of water vapors which are de- 
 veloped from the oil, and originate 
 from water mixed mechanically with 
 it. It ceases in a short time, and as the 
 temperature rises, the oil, having now 
 become entirely black, swims quietly 
 and uniformly in the cylinder. 
 
 From this moment on the oil rises 
 constantly in the cylinder, and throws 
 out small bubbles* where it comes in 
 contact with the walls of the cylinder. 
 As soon as vapors of a pungent odor 
 commence to rise from the oil, the at- 
 tendant must observe the strictest vigi- 
 lance. The moment the entire mass of 
 the oil commences to bubble up, and 
 vapors are also evolved from the in r 
 terior, the fire must be quickly moder 
 ated or the fluid will surely boil over, 
 be the vessel never so capacious If the 
 oil should continue to rise notwith- 
 standing the fire having been moder- 
 
INKS. LITHOGRAPHIC, PRINTING, AND WRITING. 189 
 
 ated, the cylinder must at once be lifted 
 from the hearth, and only replaced j 
 when the oil has subsided. 
 
 The best plan is to keep the oil at 
 Buch a temperature that the developed 
 vapors ignite on coming in contact with 
 a lighted candle, but will go out when 
 the flame is removed, or can be at least 
 easily extinguished by placing the 
 cover upon the cylinder. The firing is 
 then regulated in such a manner that 
 the vapors will be developed quietly 
 and uniformly without a further rising 
 of the contents, and the condition of the 
 oil is tested by the " thread-test." 
 
 To make this test, a small quantity 
 of the oil is taken from the cylinder 
 with a wooden spatula. This is cooled 
 off by swinging it to and fro, and a drop 
 of it is then squeezed between the fin- 
 gers and drawn out. In doing this a 
 viscid thread 1 to 2 inches long before 
 breaking should be formed from one 
 finger to the other. If the thread 
 breaks before reaching that length, the 
 boiling must be continued. If the 
 sample is of the requisite quality, the 
 cylinder is at once lifted from the fire 
 and the varnish allowed to cool off; or 
 it is subjected to what is technically 
 called "burning." This consists in 
 igniting the vapors and allowing the 
 varnish to burn for about five minutes, 
 when the fire is extinguished by plac- 
 ing the cover upon the cylinder. 
 
 Burning the varnish makes it very 
 dark. This, of course, is of no conse- 
 quence when it is to be used for black 
 printing-ink, but it is best to omit the 
 burning if the varnish is to be used for 
 colored inks; in fact, for delicate shades 
 of color, burned varnish cannot be at 
 all used. 
 
 Hemp oil being much cheaper than 
 linseed oil is sometimes used in place 
 of the latter. It produces a tolerably 
 good ink, but the disagreeable odor of 
 the oil adheres to it, and for this reason 
 varnish prepared with this oil should 
 never be used for fine colors. 
 
 The consistency of a printing-ink de- 
 pends upon the purpose for which it is 
 to be used ; the more elegant the print- 
 ing is to be, the more the varnish must 
 be boiled down, and the greater will be 
 the expense of producing the ink. For 
 newspapers and, generally speaking, 
 for matter which must be printed 
 
 quickly, a more fluid varnish is used 
 than for printing books. The thickest 
 varnish is used for copper plate and 
 lithographic printing. 
 
 Sometimes rosin is added to the var- 
 nish so that it will not be required to be 
 boiled down so much. It is best to use 
 the ordinary, pure, brown pine rosin 
 for black printing-ink, but the light- 
 colored American rosin is more suitable 
 for printing colors. The rosin should 
 be refined by melting and filtering to 
 prevent pebbles or plant-parts, fre- 
 quently mixed with the rosin, firm 
 getting into the varnish. The rosin is 
 added to the oil when the latter has 
 been heated so far that its boiling is 
 j lainly noticeable on the edge of the 
 cylinder. For 120 parts of linseed oil, 
 40 to 50 of rosin, and also 12 to 14 of 
 soap, are used. The purpose in adding 
 soap is to facilitate the cleansing of the 
 forms, which then can be accomplished 
 by washing thtm with a brush. The 
 sc an to be used must be entirely dry. 
 Yellow rosin soap answers for ordinary 
 printing-ink, but white tallow soap 
 must be used for fine colors. 
 
 For black printing-ink, lampblack 
 prepared in a special apparatus is gen- 
 erally used; for printing colors the 
 various mineral and lac colors. All 
 substances used for coloring must I e 
 rubbed very fine and the coloring mat- 
 ter mixed with the varnish in the most 
 careful manner, so as to obtain an ab- 
 solutely uniform color. 
 
 We give a number of receipts for pre- 
 paring printing-inks. 
 
 I. Mix between rollers 16 pounds of 
 prepared linseed oil, 3 ounces of pul- 
 verized indigo, or a like quantity of 
 Berlin blue, and 8 pounds of finest 
 lampblack. The linseed oil is used 
 hot. 
 
 II. Dissolve a small quantity of black 
 rosin or melted amber in 30 parts of old 
 linseed oil ; boil it to a thick lacquer 
 and let it cool. Allow the mixture to 
 stand for a few months for the im- 
 purities to settle, and then mix it with 
 at least 15 parts of fined lampblack, 
 and grind the whole fine in a suitable 
 mill. 
 
 III. Boil down 100 parts of old lin- 
 seed oil or nut oil to the consistency of 
 syrup ; then, in order to clean it from 
 impurities, add 2 parts of bread and a 
 
190 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 few onions, and ignite the compound 
 several times, so that it is reduced to 
 of its weight. Now boil 30 to 35 parts 
 of turpentine until a sample taken from 
 the boiler and placed upon paper ap- 
 pears, when cold, clear, and breaks off 
 without crumbling. Then mix both 
 the fluids, which should be cold and of 
 the consistency of syrup, boil up once 
 more, add the necessary quantity of 
 lampblack, and grind the whole. 
 
 IV. Rub fine upon a marble slab 10 
 ounces of rosin, 3 ounces of lamp- 
 black, i ounce of Berlin blue, alike 
 quantity of indigo, i ounce of indigo- 
 red, and a like quantity of dry, yellow 
 rosin soap. 
 
 V. Melt together, with constant stir- 
 ring, 1 pound of rosin oil, 13 ounces of 
 rosin, ami 3 ounces of soft yellow soap, 
 until a homogeneous mixture is formed. 
 The consistency is regulated by an ad- 
 dition of rosin oil. Lampblack and 
 other coloring substances are added 
 after the varnish is cold. 
 
 VI. The heavy tar oil remaining in 
 the manufacture of anthracene is boiled 
 with about 10 per cent, of chloride of 
 copper. The oil assumes a black-brown 
 color, and requires then but a small 
 quantity (about 2 per cent.) of aniline- 
 violet sebate. 
 
 Printing-ink from Coal-tar. Heat 
 coal-tar with 6 to 15 per cent, of co- 
 lophony and 10 per cent, of paraffine 
 oil. Treat the varnish with chloride 
 of soda or chloride of lime and 
 hydrochloric acid, to remove the odor 
 of the tar and paraffiue oil. Heat the 
 purified varnish and compound it with 
 20 to 25 per cent, of glycerine and 18 
 per cent, of lampblack, and then 
 grind. 
 
 By another process the coal-tar is 
 heated with sulphuric acid, the mass 
 neutralized with soda, and then treated 
 with chlorine. The varnish is boiled 
 with 2i to 3 per cent, of lard and 4 to 5 
 per cent, of glycerine, or in place of the 
 latter, with 8 to 10 per cent, of soap, 
 when it is filtered and rubbed up with 
 A to & pound of lampblack. For 
 finer colors a dark aniline color is dis- 
 solved in the glycerine, or 2 to 5 per 
 cent, of extract of logwood, besides chro- 
 mate of potash, alum, or tartar is added 
 to the varnish. 
 
 Thick Printer's Varnish with Coal- 
 
 tar Varnish Oil. Boil 55 pounds of 
 linseed oil with 6i pounds of fine 
 litharge until the oil, on cooling, 
 thickens ; then allow it to settle quietly. 
 Now melt 22 pounds of light American 
 rosin, add it to the thick linseed-oil 
 varnish, and continue boiling for some 
 time, and finally add 11 pounds of coal- 
 tar varnish oil, continue heating for 
 some time and then stir until cold. The 
 varnish should be thickly fluid and of 
 the consistency of honey. 
 
 Fine Printers-ink with Coal-tar 
 Varnish Oil. Rub 22 pounds of semi- 
 calcined lampblack very fine upon a 
 stone slab, and add gradually some 
 rectified spirit of turpentine until a 
 thick paste is formed ; continue rubbing 
 until the compound acquires a gloss. 
 Now rub 22 pounds more of semi- 
 calcined lampblack to the same con- 
 sistency but with an addition of coal- 
 tar varnish oil, and intimately mix 
 both compounds. Then rub upon a 
 stone slab 4| pounds of Parisian blue, 
 add 81 ounces of dryer, then the above 
 mixture of lampblack, and mix all 
 together. 
 
 This printing-ink is specially adapted 
 for fine lithographic work, cards, and 
 artistic printing. 
 
 Black Printing Colors patented in 
 Germany are prepared from 45 parts of 
 anthracene oil (green oil) previously 
 boiled with 5 per cent, of chloride of 
 copper, 40 parts of pitch or asphaltum, 
 12 parts of soft soap, 5 to 8 parts of train 
 oil, and 3 to 15 parts of aniline colors 
 soluble in alcohol. To remove the un- 
 pleasant smell of the anthracene oil 
 treat it at a temperature of above 212 
 F. with nitric acid. 
 
 New Process of Preparing Pt^inting- 
 inks. In place of linseed-oil varnish 
 solutions of 40 to 50 parts of rosin 
 or other resins in 25 of paraffine oil are 
 used. 
 
 Printing and Stamping Ink con- 
 taining Iron. Add to inks prepared 
 from linseed-oil varnish, combinations 
 of ferric or ferrous oxides or metallic 
 iron. These form an intimate combi- 
 nation with the cellulose and sizing of 
 the paper, in which, even if the black 
 of the ink is entirely destroyed for 
 fraudulent purposes, the iron can be 
 accurately pointed out. 
 
 Bronze Color for Direct Printing 
 
INKS. LITHOGRAPHIC, PRINTING, AND WRITING. 191 
 
 upon Paper, Oil-cloth, etc. The gold 
 and silver designs on wall papers, oil- 
 cloth, etc., were formerly produced by 
 applying gold leaf or silver leaf to the 
 design, printed with thick linseed-oil 
 varnish, or some other agglutinant, or 
 dusting it with bronze powder. In the 
 new process the bronze powder is mixed 
 with the agglutinant and printed di- 
 rectly upon the paper. Water-glass is 
 an excellent agglutinant for this pur- 
 pose. By rubbing up 1 part by weight 
 of bronze powder with 2 parts by weight 
 of water-glass, a printing color is ob- 
 tained, which, on being applied to the 
 blocks or rollers, can be at once trans- 
 ferred to paper, oil-cloth, or tissue, and 
 wood or metal surfaces. The bronze 
 print prepared in this manner dries 
 very quick, cannot be removed by 
 water or oil (if not boiling), and is in- 
 sensible to heat and light. If, in print- 
 ing, the bronze color dries too quickly, 
 dilute it with 10 to 12 per cent, of water, 
 or 5 to 10 per cent, of sugar syrup, the 
 latter giving, besides, more body to the 
 color. 
 
 Black Printing-ink which may also 
 be used as Etching Ground. Heat and 
 mix intimately 40 parts of pitch or as- 
 phaltum, 28 of rectified tar oil, 8 of ani- 
 line-violet sebate, 24 of residue of the 
 distillation of black rosin oil. 
 
 Preparation of Tannin Black and its 
 Use for Printing-ink and other Pur- 
 poses. Chips and all kinds of waste 
 of leather, animal waste containing 
 glue and gelatine, and substances con- 
 taining tannic acid serve as raw ma- 
 terial in manufacturing tannin black. 
 
 I. One thousand pounds of the mate- 
 rial are heated with about 350 gallons of 
 water. After the liquid is drawn off, 
 water is again poured upon the mass. 
 About 50 pounds of caustic soda are 
 then added, the whole is boiled for a 
 few hours, and the liquid then drawn 
 off and added to the first liquid, to which 
 90 pounds of sulphate of iron have been 
 added. After the second liquid has 
 been added, 30 pounds more of sulphate 
 of iron with some alum are added to 
 complete precipitation. The mass, after 
 being sufficiently stirred, is then filtered. 
 To prevent subsequent moulding 3 gal- 
 lons of heavy tar oil are added to each 
 of the liquids drawn off. 
 
 II. According to another process, the 
 
 same proportions of material and water 
 are brought into a steam boiler, and 
 30 pounds of caustic soda and 3 gallons 
 of heavy tar oil added. The whole is 
 evaporated for a few hours and then 
 drawn off into a pan. Here the same 
 quantity of sulphate of iron as given in 
 1. is added, with 350 gallons of water, 
 40 pounds of caustic soda, and 3 gallons 
 of tar oil. The whole is then boiled, 
 the fluid drawn off, 30 pounds of sul- 
 phate of iron are added, and the pre- 
 cipitate treated as above. For printing- 
 ink, the black, to which some prussiato 
 of potash, or some decoction of logwood 
 has been previously added, is evaporated 
 to i its weight, and then mixed with 
 linseed-oil varnish. For shoe-black ing 
 the black is mixed with rosin soap and 
 decomposed with hydrochloric acid, 
 and then syrup, sugar waste, chloride 
 of potash, non-drying oil, and crude 
 glycerine are added in suitable propor- 
 tions. 
 
 Lithographic Inks. I. Melt 10 ounces 
 of wax, 8 ounces of shellac, 5 ounces of 
 mastic, 4 ounces each of pure tallow 
 and hard tallow soap, and i ounce of 
 Venetian turpentine, and mix with this 
 2-J ounces of lampblack. This ink is 
 rubbed up with water like water-colors 
 and forms an emulsion. 
 
 II. consists of a mixture of 2 ounces 
 of suet, 3^ ounces each of white wax and 
 of soap, i ounce of shellac, If ounces 
 of mastic, i ounce of butter, and i ounce 
 of caoutchouc dissolved in oil of laven- 
 der, and li ounces of lampblack. 
 
 The solid ingredients are triturated 
 and melted, the solution of caoutchouc 
 is then carefully added, the mass being 
 constantly stirred. It is then ignited 
 and allowed to burn for 2 minutes, when 
 it "is extinguished by placing the lid 
 upon the vessel containing it. It is 
 then mixed with the lampblack by rub- 
 bing on a stone, again melted and poured 
 out, and allowed to become cold. 
 
 III. Heat 40 parts of yellow wax un- 
 til the vapors emitted become ignited. 
 Then take it from the fire and add grad- 
 ually 10 parts of mastic, 28 of gum lac, 
 and 22 of Castile soap, and mix it with 
 9 parts of lampblack; then ignite the 
 compound, remove it from the fire, ex- 
 tinguish the flame, pour the mass upon 
 a stone, and, when cold, divide it into 
 disks. 
 
192 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 IV. Another kind consists of 3 parts ' always be found in ordinary inkstands, 
 of shellac, 4 of soap, 6 of white wax, 2 and this the quicker the more the ink 
 
 of tallow, and 6 of a strong solution of : " *""* ""*'' ~ 4 - -' -"- - : - 
 
 sandarac, and sufficient lampblack to 
 color the mixture black. 
 
 Autographic Ink consists of 10 parts 
 of dry soap, 10 of wax, 5 each of shellac 
 
 comes in contact with atmospheric air. 
 An ink available for documents must 
 not be so much obliterated by water or 
 absolute alcohol as to render the writ- 
 ing indiscernible. 
 
 Ink may be either a clear solution of 
 any coloring matter, or, as is generally 
 the case with ordinary writing-ink, con- 
 sist of a finely-divided iusoluule pre- 
 cipitate, held in suspension in water. 
 The principal materials used in prepar- 
 ing this kind of ink are gall-nuts, sul- 
 phate of iron, and gum, used in various 
 proportions. The gall-nuts are con- 
 verted into a coarse powder and boiled 
 
 ^.^jno.v^w.wy.vui,.. *..*.. *. ~*,v^~v, with water, or, what is better, digested 
 and mix together 12 parts of shellac, 8 for several hours in water of a temper- 
 of mastic, and melt in 1 of Venetian ature near the boiling point ; the decoc- 
 Remove the vessel 
 
 and mastic, and 3 each of mutton tallow 
 and fine lampblack. 
 
 Lithographic Printing-ink is pre- 
 pared by melting together 8 parts each 
 of tallow, soap, and wax, 6 of shellac, 
 and 4 of mastic, and adding the neces- 
 sary lampblack. It is used to make 
 imprints upon paper from engraved 
 plates, which are then transferred to 
 the lithographic stones. 
 
 Lithographic Ink. Pulverize 
 
 turpentine. Remove the vessel from 
 tLe fire, add 16 parts of wax and 6 of 
 tallow, and when they are melted add 
 6 parts of hard tallow soap cut into 
 shavings, and 11 parts of lampblack. 
 
 The mass, after having been inti- 
 mately mixed by boiling, is allowed to 
 cool off somewhat, and is then, while 
 still in a liquid state, poured upon a 
 marble slab, and, when cold, cut into 
 square pieces 
 
 The principal property of a good 
 lithographic ink is that it does not 
 penetrate into the stone, so that the most 
 delicate lines of a drawing will stand a 
 great number of impressions. It must 
 
 tion is then filtered and the dissolved 
 sulphate of iron and gum are added. 
 In the following we give a few receipts : 
 
 I. 12 parts of gall-nuts, 5 of sulphate 
 of iron, 5 of gum-Senegal, and 120 of 
 water furnishes a very useful ink for 
 ordinary purposes. 
 
 II. The following gives a beautiful 
 writing-ink : 11 parts of gall-nuts, 2 of 
 sulphate of iron, f part of solution 
 of indigo, and 33 of water. 
 
 The quantities in the above receipt 
 being proportionally larger, allow of 
 the omission of the gum, while the 
 solution of indigo imparts a deeper, 
 brilliant black. Although the writing 
 
 therefore be capable of resisting the j executed with this ink can be removed 
 acid, with which the stone is prepared, j from the paper by diluted acid, it can 
 
 to such a degree that not even the 
 smallest particle of the fatty substances 
 is attacked by it. 
 
 Writ! mj-i nl:. Although there is per- 
 haps no other chemical preparation in 
 such general use as writing-ink, but few 
 inks answer all requirements. This 
 may be explained by the circumstance 
 that receipts for ink cannot be calcu- 
 lated according to a chemical formula, 
 but largely depend on experiments, and 
 that we are forced to use the collected 
 results of such experiments. A good 
 black writing-ink must readily flow 
 from the pen, show either at once or in 
 a short time a deep black color, and 
 must not attack the pen or the paper. 
 When kept in a hermetically closed 
 vessel no sediment of any account 
 should be formed, although such will 
 
 be restored by chemical means. 
 
 III. Boil 2 pounds of pulverized 
 gall-nuts in 3 gallons of water, strain 
 the decoction through a linen cloth and 
 filter it, and add 1 pound each of sul- 
 phate of iron and gum- Arabic dissolved 
 in 3 quarts of water 
 
 The mixture is stirred from time to 
 time and exposed to the air until it has 
 assumed a bluish-black color. It is 
 then allowed to settle, when the clear 
 ink is drawn off and bottled. This ink 
 is sold under the name of "Donbl" 
 Ink;" the "Simple Ink" is obtained 
 by adding an equal volume of water. 
 
 To prevent the ink from moulding an 
 addition of creosote or carbolic acid is 
 highly recommended. OR"; drop of 
 creosote thoroughly stirred in suffices 
 for 1 quartof ink. A slight addition of 
 
INKS. LITHOGRAPHIC, PRINTING, AND WRITING. 193 
 
 salicylic acid will prevent the formation 
 of mould even in open inkstands. 
 
 The sediment remaining in the stor- 
 ing barrels is used for marking boxes, 
 barrels, etc. 
 
 As ink prepared from gall-nuts and 
 sulphate of iron has but a dull color, a 
 small quantity of sugar or sulphate of 
 copper is added to give it lustre, though 
 the latter attacks steel pens. 
 
 It frequently happens that an ink 
 which is black at first assumes, in the 
 course of time, a yellowish tint. This 
 is prevented by adding 2 ounces of 
 caustic aqua ammonia to every pound 
 of sulphate of iron used. 
 
 Other substances containing tannin, 
 as sumach, logwood, the bark of oak or 
 alder, are frequently substituted in part 
 or entirely for gall-nuts ; but the ink 
 prepared in this way is not as fine, it 
 flows badly from the pen and soon 
 changes. In the following we give a 
 few of these modified receipts : 
 
 
 V 
 
 a 
 
 * 1 
 
 S 
 
 
 "S 
 
 53 1 
 
 1*1 
 
 
 1 ^ 
 
 "^ 5 
 
 ^ s 
 
 
 Parts. 
 
 Parts. 
 
 Parts. 
 
 Gall nuts 
 
 100 
 
 85 
 
 100 
 
 Logwood 
 
 25 
 
 30 
 
 30 
 
 Sulphate of iron . . . 
 Sulphate of copper . . 
 Gum- Arabic .... 
 
 30 
 
 30 
 30 
 
 30 
 10 
 30 
 
 30 
 60 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 Water 
 
 2000 
 
 2000 
 
 2000 
 
 
 
 
 
 An ordinary writing-ink can be pre- 
 pared by boiling H pounds of logwood 
 with sufficient water to leave a residue 
 of 2i quarts. When cold, add H 
 drachms of yellow bichromate of pot- 
 ash and stir thoroughly, and the ink is 
 ready for use without the addition of 
 gum. This ink is cheap and suitable 
 for steel pens, but becomes thick, which ' 
 defect, according to Stein t e&Q be avoided 
 by adding a few drops of solution of 
 mercury salt. It flows then freely from 
 the pen, and its color, first of a dark 
 indigo-blue tint, changes soon into 
 black. 
 
 The majority of the so-called inde- 
 gtructibleinkg contain a certain quantity 
 of finely-divided carbon. The writing 
 executed with these inks resists ordinary i 
 13 
 
 ! reagents ; but they are much thicker 
 than ordinary ink, soon form a thick 
 sediment, and do not penetrate the fibre 
 of the paper, so they can be readily 
 washed off or effaced by scratching 
 
 Traille prepares an indestructible ink 
 by dissolving gluten in pyroligneous 
 acid. A soap-like fluid is obtained 
 which is diluted to the strength of or- 
 dinary vinegar. To every pint of this 
 fluid there should be added i ounce 
 of lampblack and 20 grains of indigo. 
 This ink possesses a beautiful color, 
 flows readily from the pen, and dries 
 quickly. It cannot be effaced by water 
 or scratching, and reagents which de- 
 stroy ordinary ink have no effect on it 
 whatever. The fibre of the paper must 
 be destroyed before the ink can be re- 
 moved. 
 
 P. A. Gaffard, of Paris, prepares an 
 indestructible ink from 1 part of lamp- 
 black, 12 of potash water-glass of the 
 consistency of syrup, 1 of aqua am- 
 monia, and 38 of distilled water. 
 
 Stark, who has devoted a great deal 
 of time and labor to experimenting with 
 ink, prefers for his own use the follow- 
 ing composition: f pound of gall-nuts, 
 i pound of sulphindigotic acid, a like 
 quantity of sulphate of iron, a few cloves, 
 and i pound of gum- Arabic to every 
 gallon of ink. 
 
 Starts Patent Copying-ink is made 
 as fpllows : Dissolve 250 parts of extract 
 of logwood, 17 each of sulphate of iron 
 and sulphate of copper, and 50 of sugar 
 in 1000 of boiling water; strain the so- 
 lution, and add a solution of 16 parts 
 of neutral chromate of potash, 100 of 
 glycerine, and finally 200 of sulphin- 
 digotic acid, obtained by dissolving 2.5 
 parts of indigo in 50 of fuming sulphuric 
 acid, and diluting with 200 of water. 
 
 Bottger's Copying-ink is prepared by 
 dissolving 1 ounce of extract of log- 
 wood and i ounce of crystallized car- 
 bonate of soda in 1 pint of water and 
 adding to the solution 1 ounce of glyc- 
 erine of 1.25 specific gravity, 15 grains 
 of yellow chromate of potash dissolved 
 in a little water, and i ounce of pulver- 
 ized gum- Arabic converted into a mucil- 
 age with a little water. This ink does 
 not attack the pen, does not mould, and 
 acquires a deep black color. If it is to 
 be used as a writing-ink use 1 ounce of 
 extract of logwood dissolved in 1 pint 
 
194 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL EECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 of water, but leave out the gum and 
 glycerine. It is well to add 15 grains 
 of sulphate of copper to the above 
 quantities, as this will considerably en- 
 hance the blackness of the ink. 
 
 Solid Inks (Ink Powders and Ink 
 Stones}. Various qualities of ink in the 
 solid state are prepared as a con- 
 venience for travellers, so as to avoid 
 the necessity of carrying bottles and the 
 risk of breaking them. They are mostly 
 composed of finely-pulverized constit- 
 uents of gall-nut ink, over which cold 
 water is poured, but such ink is as a 
 general rule pale and poor. The best 
 substance for preparing a good ink 
 powder is aniline black, which can be 
 readily dissolved in 80 parts of water, 
 and furnishes at once an excellent writ- 
 ing-fluid. 
 
 We add a few of the innumerable 
 receipts for ink. Many of them have 
 been tried and found to be excellent. 
 
 Karmarsch's Black Ink. Eighteen 
 parts of pulverized gall-nuts, 7 each of 
 gum- Arabic and sulphate of iron, and 
 150 of water. 
 
 Reid's Black Ink consists of 1 pound 
 of pulverized gall-nuts, i pound of sul- 
 phate of iron, and 3 quarts of water. 
 
 Lipowitz's Process of Preparing 
 Black Ink. Pulverize 6i pounds of the 
 best black gall-nuts, pour as much wa- 
 ter over them as they will absorb, and 
 place them upon a perforated bottom in 
 a barrel provided with several layers 
 of cut straw. A sufficient quantity of 
 soft water is now gradually poured over 
 the moistened gall-nuts to give 6 gal- 
 lons of a clear decoction of a dark- 
 brown color. A cor respond ing quantity 
 of dissolved sulphate of iron is brought 
 at the same time to the boiling point in 
 a suitable earthen vessel, and oxidized 
 with nitric acid during the boiling. 
 The oxidized solution of iron is then 
 precipitated with crystallized carbonate 
 of soda dissolved in the necessary quan- 
 tity of water. The precipitate is placed 
 in a linen bag, washed out, and pressed 
 with a gradually increasing pressure 
 until it is of such a consistency that the 
 cake, after the press-cloth has been re- 
 moved, will cling together and not 
 moisten blotting-paper. Three pounds 
 of this pressed ferric oxide is then 
 stirred together with 4 pounds of good 
 crude wood spirit, and added, with con- 
 
 stant stirring, to the 6 gallons of decoc- 
 tion of gall-nuts. The mixture is 
 allowed to stand for a few days, being 
 frequently stirred, and then 2J pounds 
 of gum Senegal is added, and the mixt- 
 ure stirred until the gum is dissolved. 
 
 Brand's Black Ink consists of 20 
 parts of pulverized Aleppo gall-nuts, 
 250 parts of water, 10 parts of crystal- 
 lized sulphate of iron, and 12 parts of 
 gum-Arabic. 
 
 Booth's Excellent Black Ink. Take 
 6 parts of Aleppo gall-nuts, 2 parts of 
 sulphate of iron, 1 J parts of gum, and 90 
 parts of water. Pulverize the gall-nuts 
 and boil them 3 times, and after each 
 boiling add sufficient water to replace 
 the loss by evaporation. Then strain 
 the decoction and add to it the sulphate 
 of iron and gum previously dissolved in 
 the required quantity of water. The 
 mixture is allowed to stand quietly for 
 a few weeks, the supernatant liquid is 
 then poured off, and a few drops of 
 creosote added to prevent moulding. 
 
 Van Moos' Good Black Ink. I. To 150 
 parts gall-nuts converted into a coarse 
 powder add 85 parts of sulphate of iron. 
 Pour 4000 parts of cold water over the 
 two ingredients and let them digest for 
 24 to 48 hours ; then strain through a 
 cloth and dissolve in the filtrate 48 
 parts of gum-Arabic. 
 
 II. Take 150 parts of coarsely-pow- 
 dered gall-nuts, 50 parts of sulphate of 
 iron, and 16 parts of gum-Arabic. 
 Pour 650 parts of rain water over these 
 ingredients, let them stand for 24 hours 
 in a place not too warm, stir frequently, 
 and finally filter through a cloth. 
 
 III. Boil for i hour 100 parts of gall- 
 nuts converted into a coarse powder 
 and 30 parts of sulphate of iron in 4000 
 parts of ordinary wine or fruit vinegar, 
 and when cold filter ofi' the fluid. 
 
 Geissler's Black Ink. Convert into 
 a coarse powder 1 pound of gall-nuts, 
 I pound of sulphate of iron, and 3 
 ounces of gum-Arabic. Pour over these 
 ingredients 1 quart of vinegar and If 
 gallons of water. Let the mixture 
 stand for 8 to 14 days, stirring it fre- 
 quently, and then pour off the ink. 
 
 Jahn's Black Ink. Boil dowu to % 
 its volume 25 parts of ground logwood, 
 and 150 purts of bablah with 1500 
 parts of water. Strain the decoction 
 through linen and then add 12 parts 
 
INKS. LITHOGRAPHIC, PRINTING, AND WRITING. 105 
 
 each of pulverized gum-Arabic and decoctions together and reduce them by 
 
 pulverized sugar, and 37 parts of finely- evaporation to 1000 parts by weight, 
 
 pulverized sulphate of iron. Moulding Dissolve in this liquid 1 part of neutral 
 
 is prevented by adding a very small yellow chromate of potash, let it clear 
 
 ,., rt 1.i./ 11-1 /"IK . 1 11 iT 1 _ 1-. 
 
 quantity of a solution of chloride of 
 
 mercury in water. 
 Lewis' Black Ink 
 
 consists of 1 ounce 
 each of pulverized sulphate of iron and 
 logwood, 3i- ounces of pulverized gall- 
 nuts, 1 ounce of gum-Arabic, and 1 
 quart of white wine or acetic acid. 
 
 Ure's Black Ink. I. Place 600 parts of 
 bruised gall-nuts in a cylindrical cop- 
 per vessel and boil them for 3 hours in 
 4500 parts of water, replacing always the 
 water lost by evaporation. Then pour 
 the decoction into a vat, and after a 
 short time strain it through a linen 
 cloth. Now dissolve 250 parts of gum 
 Senegal in a small quantity of water, 
 and add the mucilage thus formed, after 
 it has been filtered, to the clear decoc- 
 tion. Finally, dissolve 250 parts of sul- 
 phate of iron, add this to the ink, and 
 expose the latter to the air. As soon as 
 it has assumed a medium black color 
 bottle and cork it tightly. 
 
 II. This ink consists of 100 parts of 
 pulverized gall-nuts, 250 parts of sul- 
 phate of iron, 200 parts of gum- Arabic, 
 6000 parts of water, and a few drops 
 of creosote. 
 
 The following receipts for the prepa- 
 ration of black inks are especially 
 recommended : 
 
 I. Crush 600 parts of small gall-nuts 
 into a coarse powder and boil in a copper 
 boiler with 4500 parts of water for 3 
 hours, the loss by evaporation being re- 
 placed bv fresh water. The decoction 
 is placed* in a vat and drawn off when 
 clear, and the sediment strained 
 through a cloth. Dissolve 250 parts of 
 gum Senegal in 1500 parts of hot water 
 and add it to the decoction of gall-nuts, 
 and dissolve 250 parts of sulphate of 
 iron in 1500 parts of hot water and add 
 this to the same decoction. The ink 
 obtained in this way is exposed to the 
 air until dark enough to be used. 
 
 II. Digest for 8 days 16 parts of 
 bruised Aleppo gall-nuts, 16 of sulphate 
 of iron, 5 of gum Senegal, and 1 of 
 alum in 216 of vinegar ; then add to the 
 whole 36 parts more of vinegar and 200 
 of water. 
 
 III. Boil repeatedly 160 parts of 
 logwood with water. Pour the different 
 
 by standing, and draw the clear ink 
 into bottles, which should be hermeti- 
 cally closed. This is a cheap and good 
 ink, which flows freely from the pen. 
 but spoils quickly if allowed to stand 
 in open vessels. 
 
 Schmidt's Ink for Steel Pens. I One 
 ounce of calcined sulphate of iron, l 
 ounces of gall-nuts, and ounce of vege- 
 table gum are digested in 1 pint of dis- 
 tilled water. 
 
 II. Boil down 2 pounds of pulverized 
 gall-nuts with 3 quarts of water to $ 
 its bulk, and compound this with 7 
 ounces of sulphate of iron previously 
 dissolved in hot water. The whole is 
 then boiled for a few minutes and fil- 
 tered through linen. A part of the de- 
 coction is poured over i ounce of Chi- 
 nese ink, rubbed very fine, and to this 
 is added i ounce of solution of pro- 
 tochloride of manganese of 60 Beauine". 
 The Chinese ink, which will swell up 
 in about 24 hours, is then rubbed very 
 fine upon a stone, the clear fluid of 
 the decoction of gall-nuts is poured off 
 from the sediment and mixed with the 
 Chinese ink. A few drops of oil of 
 cloves dissolved in acetic acid are then 
 added, the mixture thoroughly shaken 
 in a closed bottle, and is then allowed 
 to stand for a few days, and the ink is 
 finally poured off from the sediment 
 into another bottle. 
 
 Run ye' sink for Steel Pens consists of 
 500 parts of decoction of logwood and i 
 part of yellow chromate of potash. 
 
 The decoction of logwood is prepared 
 by boiling 67^ parts of logwood with 
 the quantity of water named above. 
 
 The liquid is filtered and then com- 
 pounded, with constant stirring, with $ 
 part of yel low chromate of potash. The 
 ink is then ready; it is of a bluish- 
 black color, and gives no sediment. To 
 prevent the ink from becoming too 
 thick add a few drops of solution ol 
 chloride of mercury. 
 
 Haenle's Ink, which does not Corrode 
 Steel Pens. Boil 250 parts of pulverized 
 gall-nuts, 125 parts of gum, and a like 
 quantity of sulphuric acid in 4000 parts 
 of distilled or rain water, and add a few 
 grains of chloride of mercury. 
 
196 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 English Inks. The following is a 
 receipt recommended by Penny, of An- 
 derson University : Macerate 12 ounces 
 of bruised gall-nuts in 1 gallon of cold 
 water for one week, add 6 ounces of 
 dissolved sulphate of iron, 6 ounces of 
 gum mucilage, and 5 or 6 drops of 
 creosote. In this receipt Penny makes 
 use of the fact well known to chemists 
 that tannin is more soluble in cold than 
 in warm water, and for this reason rec- 
 ommends cold maceration, which, in 
 fact, is used in the principal ink fac- 
 tories. 
 
 Duncan, Clockhart & Co.'s, of Edin- 
 biirgh, Celebrated Bluish-black Ink is 
 prepared by cold maceration according 
 to the following receipt: 4| ounces 
 bruised Aleppo gall-nuts, not gnawed 
 by insects, 1 drachm of pulverized 
 cloves, 40 ounces of cold water, H 
 ounces of purified sulphate of iron, 35 
 grains of purified sulphuric acid, and | 
 ounce of sulphindigotic acid in the 
 form of a thin paste, and either entirely 
 neutral, or nearly so. 
 
 The gall-nuts are placed together 
 with the cloves into a flask capable of 
 holding about 4 gallons, water is poured 
 over them and they are allowed to di- 
 gest, being frequently shaken. The 
 fluid is then filtered into another flask 
 of the same size. The iron is now 
 added, and, when entirely dissolved, the 
 acid is poured into the mixture and the 
 whole quickly shaken ; finally, the in- 
 digo is added and mixed with the com- 
 pound by shaking, and the whole fil- 
 tered. 
 
 For Copying Ink 5} ounces of gall- 
 nuts are used. 
 
 This ink has several peculiarities: 1. 
 The use of the cold process. 2. Entire 
 absence of gum. 3. The use of sulphin- 
 digotic acid. 4. The small quantity of 
 iron, which may be explained by the 
 fact that pure protpsulphate contain- 
 ing no sesquioxide is used, so that all 
 the iron can combine with the tannin. 
 5. The use of free sulphuric acid, which 
 has generally been considered as in- 
 jurious to inks. 
 
 Ink for Steel Pens. The ink obtained 
 by the following process becomes black 
 at once, does not corrode the pen, and, 
 when thick, can be diluted with water : 
 Convert into a coarse powder ounce 
 pf gall-nuts ; add i ounce of gum-Arabic, 
 
 i and | pint of rain water. Let the whole 
 I stand in a flask for 24 hours, shaking 
 1 it several times. Then add 7 grains of 
 ferric oxide prepared in the following 
 manner : Place 4 ounces of sulphate of 
 iron in an earthen-ware pot, and heat it 
 over a strong fire until it forms a red 
 mass, when it is allowed to cool and 
 stored away for future use. To prevent 
 moulding of the ink, add a few drops 
 of creosote or a few grains of corrosive 
 sublimate. 
 
 Vanadium Ink. Berzelius > receipt 
 for this ink calls for 350 parts of a de- 
 coction obtained from 250 parts of gall- 
 nuts, to which are added 1 part of am- 
 monium meta-vanadate and 25 of gum 
 Senegal. 
 
 A good black ink flowing readily 
 from the pen is also obtained in a short 
 time by rubbing together 1 part of pyro- 
 gallic acid with 3 of finely-pulverized 
 and sifted gum- Arabic, and 3 of neutral 
 ammonium meta-vanadate. 
 
 A li.zarine Ink. Sulphate of iron per- 
 fectly free of oxide is the first requisite 
 in preparing this ink. A decoction of 
 gall-nuts 5 to 6 per cent, strong is first 
 prepared, and then a solution of indigo 
 in fuming sulphuric acid. To the lat- 
 ter, carefully diluted with water, are 
 added iron filings. The acid remain- 
 ing free after the formation of sulphate 
 of iron is dulled by means of chalk or 
 marble, so that only a small quantity 
 of free acid remains in the fluid. The 
 clear solution of indigo and sulphate of 
 iron is poured from the gypsum which 
 has been formed and added to the de- 
 coction of gall-nuts. Gum-Arabic is 
 used to render the liquid viscous. 
 
 Eisner's Alizarine Ink. Extract U 
 pounds of bruised gall-nuts with 3 
 quarts of water. On the other hand 
 pour 8 ounces of sulphuric acid over 4 
 ounces of powdered indigo, and let it 
 stand for 24 hours. Then dilute the 
 blue fluid with 3 quarts of water, and 
 add to it 7| ounces of iron filings free 
 from rust and 5 ounces of pulverized 
 chalk. After the fluid has stood for 
 some time it is filtered and the filtrate 
 added to the decoction of gall-nuts, also 
 previously filtered. The writing exe- 
 cuted with this ink is first greenish, 
 but soon assumes a blue-black color. 
 
 Dubell's Alizarine Ink has a pleasant 
 green color, flows freely from the pen, 
 
INKS. LITHOGRAPHIC, PRINTING, AND WRITING. 197 
 
 and becomes black in a short time. It [ 
 is prepared as follows : Convert into a j 
 coarse powder | ounce of Turkish gall- j 
 nuts, pour U pints of tepid water over 
 them, and allow them to digest for 24 ! 
 hours at a moderate heat. Then strain | 
 the fluid and add 2 ounces of wood 
 spirit, next 1' drachms of gum-Arabic, 
 and 2 ounces of neutralized solution of 
 sulphiudigotic acid, and shake the 
 mixture thoroughly. 
 
 Winternitz's Alizarine Ink. One 
 hundred parts by weight of pulverized 
 nut-galls are digested in 1200 parts of 
 crude wood spirit, allowed to stand for 
 a few days in a moderately warm place, 
 filtered, *and the residue in the filter 
 washed with crude wood spirit until j 
 the filtrate amounts again to 1200 parts, i 
 In this clear brown extract dissolve 12 
 parts of sulphate of iron and 30 of gum- 
 Arabic ; let the mixture again stand for 
 a few days, stirring it frequently, and I 
 finally add sufficient solution of indigo | 
 so that the whole makes 1500 parts by 
 weight. The solution of indigo used is 
 prepared by dissolving 1 part of indigo 
 in 4 of fuming sulphuric acid, diluting 
 the fluid with water, precipitating it 
 with carbonate of potash, collecting the 
 blue precipitate upon a filter, and wash- 
 ing with water. 
 
 Another Receipt. Five hundred and 
 twenty-five parts of the best bruised 
 gall-nuts are digested for 2 days 
 in 7000 parts of water. Then add 
 700 parts of solution of indigo and 
 dissolve in the liquid 190 parts of sul- 
 phate of iron, 175 of sugar, and a like i 
 quantity of gum Senegal, and finally 20 j 
 drops of creosote dissolved in 14 parts 
 of alcohol. 
 
 Receipt with Oxalic Acid. Three 
 hundred and fifty parts of the best gall- 
 nuts are bruised and digested for 2 days 
 in 3500 parts of water, and the fluid 
 strained. In this dissolve 115 parts of 
 sulphate of iron and 25 of crystallized 
 oxalic acid ; then add 225 parts of solu- 
 tion of indigo, and finally dissolve 100 
 parts of sugar, a like quantity of gum 
 v Senegal, and 10 drops of creosote in the 
 fluid. 
 
 COPYING INKS. Beau's French 
 Copying Ink consists of 1650 parts by 
 weight of beer, 95 of gall-nuts, 30 of 
 gum- Arabic, 40 of calcined sulphate of 
 iron, 20 of tormentil root (Potentilla 
 
 tormentilla), 10 of lampblack, 10 of 
 rock candy, 60 of white sugar, and 5 of 
 honey. 
 
 Black Copying Inks. I. Boil 33 parts 
 each of coarsely-powdered gall-nuts, 
 extract of logwood, and bruised tor- 
 mentil root in 500 parts of vinegar and 
 a like quantity of water, and strain the 
 fluid. Next dissolve 180 parts of sul- 
 phate of iron and 33 parts of alum in 
 250 parts of water; add this solution to 
 the above fluid, and dissolve in it by 
 boiling 1 drachm of indigo-carmine, 
 
 1 ounce of gum-Arabic, and 2 ounces 
 of white sugar. 
 
 II. Boil 1 ounce of extract of log- 
 wood with 1 quart each of vinegar and 
 water, ounce of sulphate of iron, 
 ounce of alum, a like quantity of gum- 
 Arabic, and 1 ounce of sugar. 
 
 III. Boil for 2 hours 4J ounces of 
 rasped logwood in 3 gallons of water, 
 replenishing from time to time the 
 evaporated water. To the liquid, while 
 still warm, add 1 pound of best gall- 
 nuts converted to a coarse powder, 4| 
 ounces of sulphate of iron, \ ounce of 
 sulphate of copper, and 3i ounces each 
 of white sugar and gum-Arabic. It is 
 best to place the mixture in an earthen- 
 ware pot of a capacity of 7 gallons, and 
 allow it to stand in this for 14 days, 
 stirring it at least twice a day ; the ink 
 is finally filtered through a coarse 
 woollen cloth. 
 
 Excellent Black Copying Ink. Boil 
 9 ounces of coarsely-powdered gall-nuts 
 and 4| ounces of ground logwood with 
 If gallons of water until f gallon of 
 fluid remain, and filter through a 
 cloth. Then dissolve 4J ounces of 
 ordinary sulphate of iron, 3 ounces of 
 sulphate of copper, 3 ounces of gum- 
 Arabic, and 1 ounce of rock candy in 
 13 quarts of water ; add this solution to 
 the above decoction, stir it thoroughly, 
 let it stand for 24 hours, and filter the 
 ink from the sediment through a felt 
 bag. 
 
 Excellent Black Copying Ink. Con- 
 vert into a coarse powder 8 parts of 
 Turkish gall-nuts, 4 of sulphate of iron, 
 
 2 of gum-Arabic, 1 of alum, and 1 of 
 indigo. Place the ingredients in a 
 flask, pour 12 parts of vinegar over 
 them, and let them digest in a moder- 
 ately warm place for 24 hours. Then 
 add 60 parts of beer, let it again stand 
 
198 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 in a warm place for a few days, when 
 the ink is ready for use. 
 
 Another Receipt. By dissolving 1 
 part of rock candy in 3 of ordinary good 
 ink, a fluid is obtained which permits 
 the transfer of writing to another 
 paper. 
 
 Alkaline Copying Ink which pre- 
 serves the steel pen from oxidation is 
 produced from 5 parts of decoction of 
 logwood, of 8 Beaume, 3 of sugar, 2 of 
 gum Senegal, and 5 of glycerine. The 
 fluid is colored violet by adding a solu- 
 tion of 20 parts of potash and 3 of 
 flowers of sulphur in 100 of water. The 
 substances are mixed in an iron boiler, 
 10 parts of leather waste added, and, 
 with constant stirring, boiled down to 
 dryness. Two hundred parts of water 
 are then poured over the residue, the 
 fluid is pressed out, and then filtered. 
 
 ANILINE INKS are true solutions; 
 the coloring matter does not precipitate ; 
 they are very fluid, flow readily from 
 the pen, and dry quickly. They must 
 not be made too concentrated. If the 
 writing, when dry, has a metallic lustre 
 the ink. should be diluted. The inks 
 do not mould, and, when thick, can be 
 restored by adding water. They do 
 not require an addition of gum, but if 
 desired, 1 part of dextrine may be added 
 to 100 parts of ink ; gum- Arabic should 
 not be used. Some of the inks, espe- 
 cially the violet parlor ink, are very 
 easily affected by other inks, so that a 
 pen used for the latter must not be 
 dipped into the former. 
 
 Blue Aniline Ink. Dissolve 1 part 
 ofbleudenuit (bleu de Paris) soluble 
 in water in 200 to 250 of hot water. 
 
 Black Aniline Ink. Dissolve 1 part 
 of aniline black soluble in water in 80 
 of water. 
 
 Green Aniline Ink is very beautiful, 
 but costly. Dissolve 1 part of iodgreen 
 in 100 to 110 of hot water. Writing 
 executed with this ink has a brilliant 
 bluish-green color; fora more yellow- 
 ish-green tint add some picric acid. 
 
 Red Aniline Ink. Dissolve 1 part of 
 fuchsine soluble in water in 150 to 200 
 of hot water. 
 
 Violet Aniline Ink (Parlor Ink). 
 Dissolve I part of aniline violet soluble 
 in water in 200 of water. 
 
 Inflow Aniline Ink cannot be recom- 
 mended. It is prepared by dissolving 
 
 1 part of picric acid in 120 to 140 of 
 water. 
 
 INDESTRUCTIBLE OR PERMANENT 
 INKS. Bosse's indestructible ink is pre- 
 pared by boiling 33 parts of logwood 
 with 400 of water for i hour, then adding 
 16.5 parts of alum, filtering the fluid 
 down to 266.5 parts, and adding a mixt- 
 ure of 33 parts of very fine elutriated 
 pyrolusite and 16.5 of pulverized gum- 
 Arabic. 
 
 Kindt's Indestructible Ink for Docu- 
 ments, etc. Mix 1 part of honey, 14 
 of water, 2 of sulphuric acid, and 
 enough indigo, dissolved in fuming sul- 
 phuric acid, that the fluid seems to be 
 sufficiently colored to furnish legible 
 writing on paper. The writing executed 
 with this ink, which, of course, must 
 not be done with a steel pen, becomes 
 perfectly black by heating the paper. 
 To prevent the writing from being de- 
 stroyed by free acids, it is, after the paper 
 has been heated, moistened with spirit 
 of sal-ammoniac, or the document is 
 placed in a box and there subjected to 
 vapors of carbonate of ammonia. It is 
 claimed that this ink answers all de- 
 mands. 
 
 Bossin's Indestructible Ink. Mix 
 ounce of pulverized verdigris, 1 ounce 
 of sal-ammoniac, i ounce of lampblack 
 with 5| ounces of water. Keep the 
 mixture in a well-closed flask, and 
 shake thoroughly before using it. 
 
 Braconnot's In destructible Ink. Ten 
 parts of good potash dissolved in boiling 
 water, 4 parts of comminuted leather- 
 waste, and 2 parts of flowers of sulphur 
 are boiled to dryness in a cast-iron 
 vessel. The dry substance is then 
 heated, with constant stirring, until it 
 becomes soft, care being had to prevent 
 it from igniting. Sufficient water is 
 gradually and carefully added until the 
 liquid assumes a very dark color, which 
 is strained through a cloth and kept in 
 well-closed bottles. Writing on paper 
 executed with this ink is not affected 
 by concentrated caustic lye nor by con- 
 centrated nitric acid. 
 
 Excellent Blue Ink, of a beautiful and 
 deep, pure blue color, is prepared as fol- 
 lows. Dissolve 16i parts of yellow 
 prussiate of potash in 500 parts of water. 
 Filter the solution and mix it with a 
 filtered solution of 16> parts of pure 
 sulphate of iron in 500 parts of distilled 
 
INKS. LITHOGRAPHIC, PRINTING, AND WRITING. 
 
 199 
 
 water, and then add 1000 parts of dis- 
 tilled water. The water standing over the 
 nearly white precipitate is then care- 
 fully removed with a siphon, and the 
 precipitate filtered to remove the water, 
 when it is placed hy means of a horn 
 spatula in a porcelain dish, which is 
 
 Sit into a water-bath, and the precipi- 
 te oxidised by stirring into it a mixt- 
 ure of 8 parts of nitric acid of 1.225 spe- 
 cific gravity, and 6| ounces of sulphuric 
 acid, care being had to avoid inhaling 
 the vapors evolved. After the acids 
 have acted upon the precipitate for 24 
 hours it assumes a dark-blue color; it, 
 is then placed in a wide-mouthed flask 
 and thoroughly washed with water un- 
 til a sample taken from the flask shows 
 no reaction upon sulphuric acid ; that 
 means, until a few drops of a solution of 
 chloride of barium no longer give a 
 white precipitate. The precipitate is 
 then rinsed from the flask upon a paper 
 filter and allowed to drain off, when 
 the filter is carefully taken from the 
 funnel and spread out upon several 
 sheets of filtering paper which have 
 been placed upon porous bricks. The 
 jelly-like precipitate is then rubbed up 
 in a mortar with 3 parts of oxalic acid, 
 and diluted with an equal volume of 
 water. An addition of gum is not re- 
 quired, but, if desired, 150 parts of best 
 white gum may be added to the ink. 
 
 RED INKS. Carmine Ink consists 
 of 6 parts of carmine, 15 of spirit of 
 sal-ammoniac, and 2 of tartaric acid. 
 Dissolve the carmine in the spirit of 
 sal-ammoniac previously diluted with 
 15 parts of water, and then add the tar- 
 taric acid. Let the mixture stand for 
 2 or 3 days, then pour off the superna- 
 tant red fluid, filter the sediment, and 
 drain off the ink adhering to it. 
 
 Winckler's Durable Red Ink. Four 
 parts of red carmine are rubbed very 
 fine with 50 parts of ordinary liquid 
 water-glass. The resulting compound 
 is diluted with 450 parts of rain water 
 and allowed to stand quietly for a few 
 days, when the fluid forming the red 
 ink is poured off. 
 
 The water-glass in which the carmine 
 is dissolved is at the same time au ex- 
 cellent means of detecting an adultera- 
 tion of carmine with cinnabar. In dilut- 
 ing the solution of carmine with water, 
 the cinnabar is at once precipitated. 
 
 VIOLET INKS. Violet Copying Ink. 
 Thirty-eight parts of extract of log' 
 wood, 550 of water, 20 of alum, 1J of 
 cream of tartar, 15 of gum -Arabic, and 
 i of crystallized verdigris. Dissolve 
 the extract of logwood in the boiling 
 water. Then in 4 different vessels dis- 
 solve the aliim, cream of tartar, gum, 
 and verdigris in some of the solution 
 of extract of logwood, and add the so- 
 lutions to the liquor of logwood in the 
 order as given. The ink is then ready 
 and is kept from moulding by an ad- 
 dition of creosote. 
 
 Violet Writing Ink. Eight parts of 
 logwood and 64 of water are boiled 
 down to 30 parts. In this fluid dissolve, 
 with constant stirring, 2i parts of alum 
 and H of gum Senegal. 
 
 Encre Violette de Rouen is obtained 
 by boiling 750 parts of logwood, 32 
 parts of alum, a like quantity of gum- 
 Arabic, and 16 parts of sugar in 6000 
 parts of water for 1 hour. The mix- 
 ture is allowed to stand for 2 or 3 days 
 and is then strained through linen. 
 This ink, it is claimed, is much improved 
 by age. 
 
 SOLID INKS. (CAKES AND POW- 
 DERS.) Platzcr* 'sink Powder. Pulver- 
 ize and mix intimately 100 parts of ex- 
 tract of logwood and 1 of bichromate 
 of potash, and A of the weight of the 
 whole of indigo blue. 
 
 Ink Powder in Capsules. To avoid 
 soiling the fingers and spilling some of 
 the powder in taking it from the boxes 
 in which it formerly was brought into 
 the market, G. J. Collins, of Brooklyn, 
 N. Y., encloses a small quantity of pow- 
 der in a capsule of gelatine, which, 
 when dissolved in water, serves also to 
 give the necessary consistency to the 
 ink. The basis of the powders is gen- 
 erally an aniline color. For Carmine 
 40 parts of cosine, 3 of lunar caustic, 
 and 7 of gelatine. For Green 44 parts 
 of aniline green, 4 of gelatine, and 2 of 
 lunar caustic. For Purple 40 parts of 
 aniline violet, 4 of gelatine, and 2 of 
 lunar caustic. The substances are separ- 
 ately converted into fine powder, mixed, 
 and the mixture placed in the capsules. 
 Each capsule contains about 15 grains 
 of powder. It is dissolved in a corre- 
 sponding quantity of pure water, re- 
 quiring about 1 hour for solution. 
 
 Ink Cake. Extract 42 parts of A leppo 
 
200 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 gall-nuts and 3 of madder with suffi- 
 cient water; then filter the fluid and 
 dissolve in it 5k parts of sulphate of 
 iron, and compound it with 2 parts of 
 solution of methyl acetate of iron and 
 1^ of solution of indigo. Evaporate 
 this mixture to dryness at a moderate 
 heat and form into cakes of desired 
 size. One part of this ink dissolved in 
 6 of hot water gives an excellent writ- 
 ing and copying ink, while a beautiful 
 ordinary writing ink is obtained by dis- 
 solving 1 part in 10 to 15 of water. 
 
 Marking Ink, especially adapted for 
 laboratory use, as it resists the action of 
 all acids and caustic fluids, and which 
 is highly recommended for marking 
 articles exposed to any degree of moist- 
 ure, is prepared as follows : Dissolve, 
 with the assistance of heat, 20 parts of 
 brown shellac in a solution of 30 parts 
 of borax in 300 to 400 parts of water, 
 and filter the solution while hot. Then 
 add to the filtrate a solution of 7i to 10 
 parts of aniline black (nigrosine) solu- 
 ble in water, & part of tannin, ik part 
 of picric acid, 15 parts of spirit of sal- 
 ammoniac, and i ounce of water. More 
 aniline black may be used, but the 
 quantity given suffices for the produc- 
 tion of a beautiful black ink, flowing 
 freely from the pen. 
 
 Ink for Writing on Glass. By rub- 
 bing up equal parts of lampblack and 
 iron scales (hammer scale) with strong 
 gum mucilage, an ink is obtained which 
 can be used for writing on glass. 
 
 Indestructible Ink for Writing on 
 Glass. An ink has recently been 
 brought into the market in the United 
 States with which writing can be 
 etched on bottles, etc. With the ex- 
 ception that it corrodes the pen, it an- 
 swers the purpose very well. The ink, 
 according to an analysis by Prof. Maisch, 
 consists of ammonium fluoride, heavy 
 spar, and sulphuric acid. The sul- 
 phate of baryta seems to act as an ab- 
 sorbent and to prevent the running of 
 the ink. 
 
 Red and Black Ink, not acted upon 
 by Acids, for Marking* Glass and Metal 
 Labels. Dissolve with the aid of heat 
 15 parts of finely-sifted copal in 120 
 parts of oil of lavender; then rub up 
 with this solution 2 parts of thoroughly 
 calcined lampblack and keep the mixt- 
 ure in a well-closed bottle. Before 
 
 using the ink shake it thoroughly and, 
 if too thick, reduce it with some oil of 
 lavender or rectified oil of turpentine. 
 
 For Red Ink use cinnabar instead of 
 lampblack and prepare the ink accord- 
 ing to the following proportions: One 
 part of copal, 8 of oil of lavender, and 
 3i of cinnabar. 
 
 Stamping Ink, which does not dry 
 quickly upon the cushion, but is never- 
 theless rapidly absorbed by the paper 
 without blurring, is prepared according 
 to the following receipt : Sixteen parts 
 of fast aniline colors (blue, red, etc.), 
 80 of boiling distilled water, 7 of glyc- 
 erine, and 3 of syrup. The anihne 
 color is dissolved in hot water and the 
 other ingredients then added, with con- 
 stant stirring. 
 
 Sympathetic Ink. Boil some gall- 
 nuts in aqua-fortis, and add to the in- 
 fusion some gum-Arabic and a little 
 sulphuric acid. However plain the 
 writing executed with this ink may be 
 at first, it will entirely disappear from 
 the paper in a few days. 
 
 Incombustible Ink and Paper. This 
 ink, which can be used either in writing 
 or painting, is an English invention, and 
 is made according to the following re- 
 ceipt : Twenty -two drachms of finely- 
 ground graphite, 12 grains of copal or 
 other resinous gum, 2 drachms of sul- 
 phate of iron, a like quantity of tinct- 
 ure of gall-nuts, and 8 drachms of sul- 
 phate of indigo are thoroughly mixed 
 and boiled in water. The graphite can 
 be replaced by an earthy mineral pig- 
 ment of any desired color. 
 
 The pulp for the paper is composed 
 of 1 part of vegetable fibre,.2 of asbes- 
 tos, 4s of borax, and T& of alum. 
 
 Indestructible Ink for Stamping Cot- 
 ton aiid Woollen Goods which are to be 
 Bleached with Chlorine. I. Dilute 1 
 part of coal-tar with 1 of benzine, and 
 stir into it yV part of lampblack. Mix 
 into a homogeneous paste which is 
 used for stamping. By adding more or 
 less benzine it can be given any consis- 
 tency desired. 
 
 Changing Writing executed with Pale 
 Ink immediately into Black. Rub fine 
 4 parts of dry sulphate of iron and then 
 mix it with 8. parts of fine white sand. 
 Strew the mixture on the ink while 
 still wet, and allow it to remain for 
 some time. 
 
INKS. LITHOGEAPHIC, PRINTING, AND WRITING. 201 
 
 Colored Sand. Sift fine white sand 
 from the coarser panicles and color it. 
 
 I. Blue. Boil 106 parts of sand and 
 4 of Berlin blue with a small quantity 
 of water, stirring constantly, and dry 
 as soon as the sand is thoroughly 
 colored. 
 
 II. Rose-colored Sand is obtained by 
 mixing 100 parts of white sand with 4 
 of vermilion. 
 
 III. Dark Brown, Sand. Boil white 
 sand in a decoction of Brazil wood and 
 dry it over a fire. 
 
 IV. Black Sand. Heat very fine 
 quartz sand, previously freed from dust 
 by sifting, and add to every i pound of 
 it 6 to 8 spoonfuls of fat. Continue the 
 heating as long as smoke or a flame is 
 observed on stirring. The sand is 
 finally washed in water and dried. 
 This black sand will not nib off. 
 
 Brush for Marking Boxes, etc. (Fig. 
 29 >. M is a sheet-brass reservoir closed 
 on the top by the cover N. This reser- 
 voir forms the handle of the brush ; the 
 lower part is open and provided with 
 the box O, enclosing the hollow screw 
 P, and at the same time strengthening 
 M. Through P runs a channel p, the 
 upper part of which is protected by the 
 cross-piece n, this being provided with 
 a projection o by which the flow of the 
 color is regulated. On P is fastened a 
 tube Q, and a bunch of bristles forming 
 the brush is fastened outside around a 
 small tube at the end. By pressing 
 down, the bristles are compressed and 
 the color flows out. 
 
 Chemical Test of Written Documents. 
 Wm. Thompson, in a discourse before 
 the Manchester Literary and Philo- 
 sophical Society, recommends the fol- 
 lowing reagents : 1. Dilute sulphuric 
 acid. 2. Strong hydrochloric acid. 3. 
 Ordinary dilute nitric acid. 4. Sul- 
 phurous acid in solution. 5. Solution 
 of caustic soda. 6. Solution of oxalic 
 acid saturated with lime. 7. Solution 
 of calcium chloride. 8. Solution of 
 stannous chloride. 9. Solution of stan- 
 nic chloride. The process is as follows : 
 Moisten different written characters, 
 successively, with each of the mentioned 
 reagents, allow them to act a few 
 seconds, and then carefully remove the 
 excess of fluid with blotting-paper. Ae- 
 cording to Mr. Thompson's statement, 
 the phenomena appearing in the dif- 
 
 ferent inks show such marked anom- 
 alies that it is even possible to dis- 
 
 Fig. 29. 
 
 tingnish characters written with ink 
 prepared in the same manufactory at 
 different times, while characters exe- 
 cuted with the same ink show such a 
 corresponding action that no difference 
 can be observed even if the ink, in case 
 of drying in, had been diluted with 
 water, beer, tea, coffee, or whatever 
 may have been handy to the writer. 
 
 Printers' Rollers are made of molasses 
 and glue. Break part of glue in 
 pieces and cover with rain water and 
 allow it to stand until all the water is 
 absorbed, and then dissolve the glue in 
 a water-bath. When froth begins to 
 
202 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 rise, remove from the fire and add li 
 parts of heated molasses. Mix the com- 
 pound well by stirring on the water- 
 bath over the fire without allowing it 
 to boil. After heating it for i hour 
 take it from the fire and allow it to \ 
 cool somewhat previous to pouring it 
 into a cylindrical mould, made of tin, 
 tinned sheet iron, or copper, having an 
 inking roller previously supported in 
 its centre by means of its end pivots 
 or gudgeons. After remaining in the 
 mould at least 8 to 10 hours in winter, 
 and a longer time in summer, the roller 
 is taken out of the mould by means of 
 a cord fastened to one of the pivots and 
 passed over a strong pulley fixed to the 
 ceiling ; but care must be had to draw 
 the cylinder slowly from the mould. 
 
 Old rollers are recast in the same 
 manner. They are first washed with 
 strong lye, and a small quantity of 
 water and molasses is then added. But 
 the best plan of making use of old roll 
 ers is to mix them with some new ma- 
 terial consisting of 1 part of glue and 
 2 of molasses. 
 
 JEWELLERS' FOILS. 
 
 Foils are very thin sheets of metal, 
 analogous in substance to a sheet of 
 paper. Tinfoil is used on the back of 
 looking-glasses to form an amalgam 
 with the quicksilver, for packing pur- j 
 poses, and as a useful aid in electrical I 
 machines. Jewellers' foils, made of j 
 copper, tin, silver, or combinations of | 
 two of them and colored, are used at j 
 the back of transparent gems, espe- 1 
 cially artificial stones, to heighten the 
 brilliancy and lustre. Some kinds of 
 foil are made by rolling sheet metal to 
 the requisite thickness, others by form- 
 ing a solid cylinder of the metal and 
 then slicing off a film while the cylinder 
 rotates, jewellers' foils are further 
 prepared by coloring, varnishing, and 
 polishing. If the color of the stone re- 
 quires modifying, a foil of lighter or 
 darker color is used. The white foil is 
 colored in the following manner : 
 
 Blue. Turnb nil's blue is rubbed up 
 with very pale, quick-drying oil, until 
 the desired ghade is obtained. This 
 blue is used to impart a darker color to 
 aphires. 
 
 Gretn. Dissolve shellac in alcohol, 
 
 and add sufficient verdigris to the solu* 
 tion to produce the desired tint. 
 
 Red. A solution of carmine in am 
 monia or lacquer, or carmine rubbed 
 up with isinglass, may be used. The 
 tint, in either case, can be modified by 
 mixing, and the lustre augmented after 
 the color has been applied by lacquer- 
 ing. 
 
 Yellow. Solution of mastic and tur- 
 meric in alcohol, or a solution of saffron 
 and isinglass may be used. 
 
 To prepare a Crimson Fluid for 
 Dutch Gold or Paper. Boil seed lac 
 in solution of soda, let it stand for 24 
 hours, pour off the clear fluid and mix it 
 with glue or isinglass and a little sugar. 
 Apply with a brush. 
 
 Yellow Fluid for Foils. Heat 
 saffron in five times its weight of dis- 
 tilled water. As soon as it has assumed 
 the desired color pour off the clear fluid 
 and mix it with gum or isinglass. The 
 fluid, after it has been applied and is 
 dry, must be lacquered. 
 
 Green Fluid for Dutch Gold. Con- 
 vert into an impalpable powder 15 
 parts each of cyanide of iron and bi- 
 chromate of potassium and 60 parts of 
 mastic, mix them with the requisite 
 quantity of wood spirit, and apply the 
 solution with a brush. 
 
 Process of producing Cameos. Stir 
 marble cement into a thin paste with a 
 mixture of yolk of egg and water. The 
 paste can be colored as desired, and is 
 then brought into moulds by means of 
 a brush. The moulds should be sil- 
 vered, and before using them, oiled. 
 The figure of the mould is first filled in 
 with the paste, and when this is cold the 
 mould is filled up with a paste of a 
 different color. When all is hard the 
 cameo is dried, figure side up, then 
 dusted with soapstone, and brushed 
 with a soft brush. It may also be im- 
 pregnated with stearine. 
 
 LACQUERS AND VARNISHES. 
 
 Manufacture of Fat Copal Varnish. 
 Violette, who has thoroughly studied 
 the action of copal subjected to high 
 temperatures, and its solubility, recom- 
 mends the following process for the 
 manufacture of copal varnish : The 
 copal is first heated at 680 F. until it 
 has lost 20 to 25 per cent, of its weight, 
 
LACQUERS AND VARNISHES. 
 
 203 
 
 when a suitable mixture of linseed oil 
 and oil of turpentine is dissolved in the 
 melted copal at 212 F. 
 
 The melting and distillation of copal 
 is an operation which, as a definite 
 
 Fig. 30. 
 
 temperature must be kept up, is very 
 difficult to execute on a large scale. 
 The following apparatuses have been 
 tested and approved by Violette. The 
 arrangements represented by Fig 30 
 consist of a clay crucible / about 8 
 inches in diameter and 12 inches dee]), 
 
 f pound of copal and is suspended 
 from a balance, the right scale pan of 
 which contains the tare of the balloon 
 and the copal, while upon the left scale 
 pan is placed a quarter of the weight of 
 the copal. The vapors from the copal 
 escape through the opening in the 
 chimney K. When 25 per cent, of the 
 
 copal has been distilled off, the beam 
 of the balance assumes a horizontal 
 position, and the balloon is lifted from 
 the crucible, the distillation being fin- 
 ished. The melted copal is distributed 
 on the sides of the balloon by swinging 
 the latter, when it is allowed to cool off 
 somewhat, and then 1 pint of oil of tur- 
 pentine and 5 ounces of linseed oil are 
 added. 
 Figs. 31 and 32 are respectively cross 
 
 Fig. 32. 
 
 resting in a furnace. The crucible is 
 heated to such a degree that zinc will 
 just inelt in it. The balloon J is then 
 Drought into the crucible. It contains 
 
 and longitudinal sections of another 
 distilling apparatus. L is a cast-iron 
 block weighing about 300 pounds, which, 
 can be easily kept at a definite temper- 
 
204 
 
 TECHNO-CIIEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 ature. It is heated to 750 F., and 
 then a little box M, containing If ounces 
 of copal, is placed in the hollow space. 
 
 having a diameter about 20 inches, 
 which can be turned by means of a 
 handwheel around a horizontal shaft. 
 
 Fig. 33. 
 
 JA. moderate fire is kept up to prevent 
 the block from becoming cool. The 
 vapors evolved from the copal escape 
 
 represents the furnace, S a movable 
 helmet, T the cooling apparatus, (/the 
 gas conductor which is connected with 
 
 Fig. 34. 
 
 from the space closed with the cover N 
 through a pipe, are condensed by the 
 cooling apparatus O, and collected as a 
 yellow, clear fluid in the vessel P. The 
 operation is interrupted as soon as a 
 quantity, corresponding to the fourth 
 part of the copal, has been collected, 
 when the box is taken from the cavity 
 in the block and the copal poured 
 out. 
 
 Another modification of the distilling 
 apparatus is represented by Fig. 33. 
 Q is a copper sphere silvered inside and 
 
 R the hollow axle of the globe. After 
 10 pounds of copal have been placed in 
 the globe and the opening closed, a 
 moderate fire is started and the globe 
 slowly turned. 
 
 In the apparatus represented by Fig. 
 34, the globe in Fig. 33, is replaced by 
 a fixed still in which the melted 
 copal is moved about by means of a 
 stirring apparatus. The still, silvered 
 inside, is 40 inches in diameter, and 28 
 inches high. It is bricked in up to the 
 cover, and capable of holding 200 
 
LACQUERS AND VARNISHES. 
 
 205 
 
 pounds of copal ; b is the opening for 
 charging the still with copal, c the 
 stirring apparatus, d the pipe for draw- 
 ing off the melted copal, e the pipe for 
 carrying off the oil of copal. A ther- 
 mometer reaching into the still is used 
 for ascertaining the temperature. 
 
 The apparatus represented by Fig. 
 35 serves for dissolving the copal, / is a 
 
 Fig. 35. 
 
 cylindrical vessel of tinned sheet iron 
 40 inches in diameter and 40 inches 
 high. It is closed by a lid to prevent 
 the evaporation of the oil of turpentine, 
 and surrounded with a wooden jacket 
 to keep it from cooling off; g is a grate 
 of tinned iron wire placed 8 inches 
 above the bottom. Upon this are placed 
 200 pounds of copal, a like quantity of 
 linseed oil, and 650 pounds of oil of 
 turpentine, previously introduced. This 
 will give 1000 pounds of varnish. By 
 opening the cock i on the serpentine 
 pipe k, lying on the bottom of the ves- 
 sel /, steam can be introduced to heat 
 the solvent. The varnish is drawn off 
 through' the pipe.;'. 
 
 Varnish prepared in this manner is 
 soluble in ether. Violette recommends 
 the following proportions for copal : 
 One pound of copal and 2 pounds of 
 sulphuric ether. The resin is powdered, 
 placed in a flask, and the ether gradu- 
 ally added with vigorous shaking, and 
 the flask hermetically closed. Solution 
 takes place readily. The varnish thus 
 prepared is cleared by allowing it to 
 stand, and before using it, filtered 
 through paper or linen. 
 
 Xjtli'it Lacquers are especially 
 adapted for polishing fine woods and 
 coating maps, book-covers, etc. The 
 only objectionable point in using them 
 for metal is that they do not adhere 
 tightly. This can be remedied by 
 **sing crystallized boracic acid, i part 
 
 of which is dissolved in 1000 parts 
 of the respective lacquer. When this is 
 applied to a bright metal surface it 
 forms a hard, glassy coating which can- 
 not be scratched off with the finger-nail. 
 
 Iron Lacquers are all prepared in a 
 very simple manner by melting pitch 
 with various products of the distillation 
 of tar. The pitch is melted, with an 
 addition of the oil, in an open iron 
 boiler heated from the outside. The 
 oil accelerates the melting of the pitch 
 and prevents it from congealing too 
 rapidly. 
 
 After the pitch has become liquid it 
 is advisable to allow it to cool some- 
 what before adding the oil, to prevent 
 the latter from boiling. Add the oil 
 gradually, and stir each portion thor- 
 oughly into the pitch before adding the 
 next. To see whether the varnish has 
 the right consistency take occasionally 
 a sample from the boiler, allowing it to 
 cool. An exact statement as to the 
 quantity of oil to be used cannot be 
 given, since the consistency of the var- 
 nish depends on the purpose for which 
 it is to be used and the demands of 
 the consumer. 
 
 Clarifying Varnish. A method of 
 clarifying varnishes and other liquids 
 and removing impurities in 48 hours is 
 as follows : Mix with every 10 gallons of 
 varnish 8 ounces each of powdered 
 marble dust and burnt oyster-shells. 
 All the impurities in the varnish will 
 be attracted by and adhere to the 
 oyster-shell dust, and the weight of the 
 marble dust mixed therewith precipi- 
 tates every floating particle to the bottom 
 of the vessel containing the varnish. 
 This process may also be applied to the 
 clarification of turpentine, oils, and 
 molasses. 
 
 Filtering Varnishes. The apparatus 
 represented by Fig. 36 prevents a loss of 
 solvent, as spirit of wine, benzole, etc., 
 by evaporation. It consists of a large 
 flask, P, either of glass or tin, closed by 
 a doubly perforated stopper In one of 
 the holes is placed the neck of the glass 
 funnel T, the upper rim of which is 
 ground smooth, and the other is fitted 
 with a glass tube, r, bmit at a right angle. 
 A thick wooden cover, with a ring of 
 rubber on the lower side, is placed upon 
 the funnel, closing it air-tight. In the 
 centre oi'the lid is fitted a glass tube, 
 
206 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 also bent at a right angle, and connected 
 with the tube r' by a rubber hose k. 
 
 Fig. 36. 
 
 Either filtering paper or fine cotton is 
 used as a filtering substance, of which 
 a plug is formed in the lower part of 
 the cone of the funnel and lightly 
 pressed into the tube of the funnel. 
 The air in the bottle, F, is displaced by 
 the fluid dropping into it, and escapes 
 through r k and r' dropping into the 
 funnel, where it absorbs the vapor of 
 the fluid, but absorbs not/ting after it is 
 once saturated. While evaporation 
 goes on constantly when an open funnel 
 is used, it is entirely checked by using 
 this apparatus. When it is observed 
 that the pores of the filter become 
 very much choked up, the contents of 
 the filter are allowed to run off and the 
 filtering material is changed. 
 
 Spirit Gold-Lac Varnishes. I. Pul- 
 verize 66 parts of shellac and 133 
 parts of gambocre. Rub up the powder 
 with 8 parts of dried saffron and dis- 
 solve the whole in 266 parts of alcohol 
 in a flask tied up with a piece of per- 
 forated bladder, by placing it in a water- 
 bath. 
 
 II. Treat the following ingredients 
 in the same manner as above : Thirty- 
 three parts of shellac, 16 parts of drag- 
 on's blood, a like quantity of turmeric, 
 
 and 8 parts of gamboge dissolved in 200 
 to 266 parts of alcohol. 
 
 III. Thirty-three parts of shellac, 4 
 parts of dragon's blood, and 2 parts of 
 saffron are digested in 800 to 1200 parts 
 of alcohol for 8 daya in the sun, and 
 then filtered. 
 
 Qold'Lac Varnish with Shellac and 
 other Resins. I. Mix 133 parts of seed 
 lac, a like quantity of sandarac,66 parts 
 of turpentine, 16 parts of dragon's 
 blood, and 2 parts each of gamboge and 
 turmeric witn 133 to 166 parts of pul- 
 verized glass, and digest the whole in 
 1600 parts of alcohol. 
 
 II. Pour 500 to 600 parts of alcohol 
 over 30 parts of seed lac, 60 parts of 
 sandarac, a like quantity of elemi, 30 
 parts of dragon's blood, 20 parts each of 
 turmeric and gamboge, 1 part of saffron, 
 and 60 to 100 parts of pulverized glass. 
 
 III. Take 133 parts of shellac, 50 
 parts of sandarac, 33 parts of mastic 
 in grains, 100 parts or yellow rosin. 
 33 parts each of yellow amber and 
 dragon's blood, 24 parts each of gam- 
 boge and turmeric, and if a deeper color 
 is desired, 30 parts of aloes, and pour 
 2000 parts of alcohol over the whole. 
 
 Gold Varnish without Lac. Dissolve 33 
 parts of copal, 16 parts of white boiled 
 turpentine, and 4 of camphor in alcohol. 
 Then prepare a solution of 33 parts of 
 sandarac, 16 parts of mastic, 8 parts of 
 dragon's blood, 16 parts of gamboge, 8 
 parts of annotto, and 4 parts of aloes in 
 spirit of wine, and mix the two solu- 
 tions together. 
 
 Gold-Lac Varnishes with Oil of Tur- 
 pentine and Oil of Lavender (from 
 Lavandula spica). I. Without Linseed- 
 oil Varnish. Boil 66 parts of mastic, 
 a like quantity of sandarac, and 4 parts 
 of turpentine with 100 parts of oil of 
 lavender over a coal fire ; then add 33 
 parts of aloes and some rosin, and 
 heat the whole until a small feather 
 dipped into the mixture ignites. 
 
 II. With an Addition of Lin seed -oil 
 Varnish. 1. Dissolve with the aid of 
 a water-bath 16 parts of amber, 33 
 parts of shellac, 16 parts of sandarac, 33 
 parts of aloes, 4 parts of gamboge, and 
 2 parts of dragon's blood in 266 parts 
 of oil of turpentine, and then add a few 
 drops of strong linseed-oil varnish. 
 
 2. Pulverize 266 parts of amber and 
 66 parts of stick lac. Dissolve the pow- 
 
LACQUERS AND VARNISHES. 
 
 207 
 
 der in 266 parts of hot linseed-oil var- 
 nish and 400 to 533 parts of hot oil of 
 turpentine, previously Colored with 66 
 parts each of gamboge, dragon's blood, 
 and annotto, and 16 parts of saffron. 
 
 3. Mix 133 parts of stick lac, a like 
 quantity of sandarac, 16 parts of drag- 
 on's blood, '2 parts of gamboge, and 166 
 parts of pulverized glass, and digest the 
 mixture in 500 parts each of oil of tur- 
 pentine and linseed-oil varnish. 
 
 All the foregoing receipts have been 
 tested and can be highly recommended. 
 
 Walton's Process of Preparing Lin- 
 seed-oil Varnish consists mainly in ex- 
 posing the linseed oil to the action of 
 air, whereby it is converted into a resin- 
 ous mass which, dissolved in wood 
 spirit or alcohol, furnishes a quickly 
 drying varnish. The apparatus repre- 
 sented by Fig. 37 is used. Clear linseed 
 oil is mixed with a siccative, 5 to 10 
 per cent, of acetate of lead being the 
 
 m-'st suitable. The mixture is then 
 passed through the apparatus, a is a 
 tube through which the oil is conveyed 
 by means of a force-pump into the 
 reservoir b provided with a perforated 
 bottom c. The oil passes down through 
 this bottom, and falls in jets or drops 
 through the column d, whereby it comes 
 in contact with air forced in at e by 
 means of a blower. Two sides of the 
 
 column are constructed of glass to 
 allow the entrance of light, which ex- 
 ert^ also a bleaching effect upon the 
 oil ; /and /* are perforated zinc plates. 
 The object of / is to distribute tiie air 
 in the apparatus over the hollow col- 
 umn, while that of/ 1 is to allow the air 
 to pass out and to retain particles of oil. 
 The current oi air need not be very 
 strong, but a constant renewal of the 
 air in the apparatus is absolutely re- 
 quired. The oil falls into the reservoir 
 g, beneath which is a space A, which is 
 heated from 212 to 300 F. by the 
 introduction of steam ; the higher the 
 temperature the quicker will be the con- 
 version of the oil ; i is a pipe through 
 which the oil is re-conveyed to the 
 pump, by which it is again forced into 
 j the reservoir b, drops down through d, 
 : and so on until it has become sufficiently 
 I changed. On the upper end of b is a 
 small cylinder, j t containing a valve k, 
 which is connected with a lever, /, 
 loaded in proportion to the pressure 
 which is to be exerted in b. The rod m 
 is connected in such a manner with a 
 cock on the pipe i, that, when the valve 
 k rises too high, in consequence of 
 too strong a pressure, communication 
 between the pump and the reservoir g 
 is interrupted. 
 
 Several Universal Furniture Var- 
 nishes. I. Dissolve 240 parts of san- 
 darac, 60 parts of seed lac, and 120 parts 
 of rosin in 1500 parts of spirit of 
 wine, and compound the solution with 
 180 parts of Venetian turpentine. 
 
 II. Compound ISO parts of naphtha 
 with 30 parts of virgin wax. Apply 
 the varnish warm and polish with a 
 woollen rag. 
 
 III. Boil 500 parts of white wax in a 
 solution of 750 parts of potash in warm 
 water for I hour, and, when the lye has 
 become cold, skim off the wax which 
 floats on the surface. Apply the wax to 
 the furniture, and by rubbing it an hour 
 afterwards with a woollen cloth, a 
 beautiful lustre will be the result. 
 
 IV. Melt 120 parts of yellow wax 
 and a little pulverized . rosin, and 
 compound this with 60 parts of warm 
 oil of turpentine or spirits of turpen- 
 tine. Rub the furniture with this by 
 means of a woollen rag, which will give 
 it a beautiful lustre. 
 
 Balloon Varnish. Cut up 500 parts 
 
208 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 of caoutchouc, and let it digest in 3000 
 parts of oil of turpentine for 7 days, 
 putting the vessel in a 'warm place; 
 then heat the mixture in a water-bath 
 until it is entirely homogeneous, add 
 2000 parts of warm drying oil pre- 
 viously boiled, mix intimately, and 
 strain the compound as soon as it is 
 cold. The above receipts have been 
 tested and can be highly recommended. 
 
 Copal Varnish with Spirit of Sal-am- 
 moniac. Convert copal into a coarse 
 powder and gradually pour spirit of 
 sal-ammoniac over it until the whole 
 is swelled up to a thick, transparent 
 mass. Heat this to 100 F., then mix 
 it gradually with alcohol 75 to 80 per 
 cent, strong, shake it thoroughly, and 
 finally add more alcohol to give the 
 mixture the requisite consistency. 
 
 Chinese Vanish. Dissolve 60 parts 
 of shellac and a piece of camphor the 
 size of a hazel-nut in 1000 parts of spirit 
 of wine, by placing the vessel contain- 
 ing it in the sun or in hot ashes for 24 
 hours, shaking the bottle from time to 
 time ; then strain the fluid. Let the 
 varnish stand quietly for 24 hours, and 
 then pour it off carefully from the sedi- 
 ment ; the latter may be used for the 
 first coat. 
 
 Incombustible Varnish for Wood. 
 An application of a solution of equal 
 parts of alum and isinglass to the place 
 exposed to the flame prevents ignition, 
 but not the transmission of heat. By 
 coating wooden vessels with this var- 
 nish fluids may be boiled in them over 
 an ordinary fire. 
 
 Varnish for Wood not acted upon -by 
 Boiling Water. Boil in an untinned 
 copper boiler 750 parts ~of linseed oil. 
 Suspend in this, in a bag which must 
 not touch the bottom, 150 parts of 
 litharge and 90 parts of pulverized 
 minium. Let the oil boil until it has 
 assumed a dark-brown color ; then re- 
 move the bag and replace it by one 
 containing 7 to 8 bulbs of garlic. Now 
 melt 500 parts of pulverized amber in 
 60 parts of linseed oil over a strong fire, 
 add it while boiling to the prepared 
 linseed oil and let it boil for 2 to 3 
 minutes longer, stirring it vigorously. 
 Then take it from the fire, allow it to 
 settle, pour off the clear liquid, and 
 when cold put it in bottles, which 
 should be hermetically closed. 
 
 To use this varnish, polish the wood 
 first and give it the desired color, for 
 instance, nut brown, by laying on a thin 
 coat of a mixture of lampblack and oil 
 of turpentine. When the stain is dry 
 apply four coats of the varnish with a 
 fine sponge, allowing one coat to dry 
 before laying on the next. 
 
 Varnish for Earthen-ware Vessels. 
 Mix equal parts of pulverized glass and 
 soda, dry the mixture over a strong tire 
 and spread it upon the surface of the 
 burnt vessels while they are still hot. 
 
 Japanese Transparent Lac Varnish, 
 Dissolve 30 parts of copal and 2 part* 
 of camphor in 120 parts of oil of turpeii' 
 tine and 30 parts of oil of lavender. 
 
 Japanese Black Lac Varnish. I. Take 
 120 parts of burnt umber, 60 parts of 
 genuine asphaltum, and 3000 parts of 
 boiled oil. Dissolve the asphaltum in 
 a small portion of the oil with the aid 
 of heat, then add the umber, previously 
 rubbed up with oil, and finally the re- 
 maining oil ; mix the whole thoroughly, 
 allow it to cool, and thin with oil of 
 turpentine. This varnish is very elas- 
 tic. 
 
 II. Dissolve 1 part of shellac in 4 of 
 wood spirit, and color with lampblack. 
 
 Varnish for Fans, Fancy Boxes, etc. 
 Dissolve 60 parts of mastic and 240 
 parts of sandarac in 1500 parts of spirit 
 of wine, and compound the solution 
 with 120 parts of Venetian turpentine. 
 
 Varnish for Umbrellas. Boil 2 parts 
 of turpentine and 1 of pulverized lith- 
 arge in 2 to 3 of linseed oil. This 
 varnish is applied with a brush and 
 dried in the sun. 
 
 Black Varnish for Tinsmiths. Mix 
 fine lampblack or Frankford black 
 with a solution of shellac, or with a 
 solution of 1 part of asphaltum in 3 of 
 oil of turpentine, and then add some 
 linseed oil and minium. 
 
 Gold Varnish on Iron. Boil in an 
 earthen-ware pot 90 parts or more of 
 linseed oil, 60 parts of tartar, i!0 parts 
 of hard-boiled yelk of egg, 15 parts 
 of aloes, J part of saffron, and <& part 
 of turmeric, and apply the fluid to the 
 iron. 
 
 Pitch Varnish for Buildings. One 
 pound of linseed oil, 150 parts of pitch, 
 and 120 parts of litharge are boiled over 
 a coal fire and stirred until they are 
 intimately mixed. Apply one or, if 
 
LACQUERS AND VARNISHES. 
 
 209 
 
 necessary, several coats of this varnish 
 to the weather side of the buildings, 
 which will render them impervious to 
 moisture. The above quantity suffices 
 to give 4 coats to 18 square feet of sur- 
 face. Shingle roofs coated with this 
 varnish last at least twice as long as 
 ordinary. 
 
 Spirit Varnish for Violins and other 
 Musical Instruments. Dissolve over a 
 moderate fire 120 parts of sandarac, 60 
 parts of shellac, a like quantity of 
 mastic, and 30 parts of elemi in 1500 
 parts of highly rectified spirit of wine, 
 and after the solution has boiled up 
 several times, add 60 parts of Venetian 
 turpentine. 
 
 Black Varnish for Zinc. Equal parts 
 of chlorate of potassium and blue vit- 
 riol are dissolved in 36 times as much 
 warm water, and the solution allowed 
 to cool. If the sulphate of copper used 
 contains iron, it is precipitated as a 
 hydrated oxide and can be removed by 
 decantation or filtration. The zinc 
 castings are then immersed for a few 
 seconds in the solution until quite 
 black, rinsed off with water, and dried. 
 Even before it is dry the black coating 
 adheres to the article so that it may be 
 wiped dry with a cloth. If copper-col- 
 ored spots appear during the operation, 
 the solution is applied to them a second 
 time, and after awhile they turn black, 
 when the article is washed and dried. 
 On rubbing, the coating acquires a 
 glittering appearance like indigo, which 
 disappears on applying a few drops of 
 linseed-oil varnish or " wax-milk," and 
 the zinc then has a deep-black color 
 and gloss. The "wax-milk" is pre- 
 pared by boiling 1 part of yellow soap 
 and 5 of Japanese wax in 21 of water 
 until the soap dissolves. When cold 
 it lias the consistency of a salve, and 
 will keep in closed vessels for an in- 
 definite time. It can be used for pol- 
 ishing carved wood and for waxing 
 ball-room floors, as it is cheaper than 
 the solution of wax in turpentine) and 
 does not stick or smell disagreeably 
 like the latter. 
 
 Parisian Wood Varnish. This cele- 
 brated varnish is prepared by dissolv- 
 ing 1 part of shellac in 3 or 4 of alcohol 
 of 92 per cent, on the water-bath, and 
 cautiously adding distilled water until 
 a curdy mass separates, which is col- 
 14 
 
 lected and wrapped in linen. The 
 liquid is filtered through paper, all the 
 alcohol removed by distillation from 
 the water-bath, and the resin removed 
 and dried at 212 F. until it ceases to 
 lose weight. It is then dissolved in 
 double its weight of alcohol of at least 
 96 to 98 per cent., and the solution per- 
 fumed with lavender oil. 
 
 Furniture Varnish. Heat gently, 
 with constant stirring, 8 parts of white 
 wax, 2 of rosin, and i of Venetian 
 turpentine; pour the mixture into a 
 glazed stone pot and add, while it is 
 yet warm, 3500 parts of rectified oil of 
 turpentine. After standing for 24 hours 
 the mass forms a soft, buttery substance, 
 and is ready for use. The articles to 
 be varnished must be carefullv cleansed 
 with soap and water and then dried 
 before applying the varnish. The pol- 
 ish obtained is not quite as brilliant as 
 that obtained by shellac varnish, but 
 has a peculiar, chaste appearance. 
 
 To Lacquer Flowers. Pulverize 40 
 parts of sandarac, 15 parts of mastic, 
 and 2 parts of camphor, and put the 
 powder into a long-necked flask ; then 
 pour 1000 parts of rectified spirit of 
 wine over it, and place the flask in a 
 moderately warm place, shaking it at 
 first frequently, and then allowing it 
 to stand quietly so that the fluid may 
 settle. Flowers, plants, and herbs may 
 be coated with this varnish. Flowers 
 retain not only their beautiful colors, 
 but are also protected against the rav- 
 ages of insects. This varnish is also 
 adapted for coating maps, playing- 
 cards, copper prints, and pictures. 
 
 White Unchangeable Lacquer for 
 Leather. Artificially prepared carbon- 
 ate of baryta is rubbed up with very 
 light linseed-oil varnish and the com- 
 pound applied to the leather. On this 
 is laid a coat prepared from carbonate of 
 baryta and white copal varnish. When 
 dry the lacquer is pumiced with elutri- 
 ated pumice-stone and a piece of felt, 
 and then polished with elutriated bone- 
 ash. The white color of this lacquer is 
 not changed in the least by sulphur- 
 etted or other exhalations, which, as is 
 well known, darken white lead. 
 
 To Polish Carved Work. Dissolve 
 1 part of seed lac and 1 of transparent 
 resin in 9 of spirit of wine. This polish 
 must be applied warm, and the article 
 
210 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 to be polished must also be heated if 
 possible. 
 
 A beautiful French polish is obtained 
 by using the following ingredients: 
 700 parts of spirit of wine, 15 parts of 
 copal, 7 parts of gum-Arabic and 30 
 parts of shellac. The resins are first 
 pulverized and bolted through a piece 
 of muslin. The powder is placed in a 
 flask, the spirit of wine poured over it, 
 and the flask corked. By putting the 
 flask in a moderately warm place, the 
 solution will be accomplished in 2 or 3 
 days. It is then strained through a 
 piece of muslin and kept in hermeti- 
 cally closed bottles. This polish gives 
 a beautiful appearance to the carvings, 
 and a gloss and richness of color which 
 cannot be obtained by any other means. 
 It is especially adapted for polishing 
 fine furniture, and for this purpose is to 
 be preferred to all other polishes. To 
 give to articles polished with this lac- 
 
 uer the finest finish possible, the fol- 
 )wing peparation is used : Put 8 parts 
 of shellac and a like quantity of ben- 
 zoin, and 350 parts of rectified spirit of 
 wine into a flask, keep this in a warm 
 place until all the gum is dissolved, 
 and shake it vigorously. To the cold 
 solution add a small portion of the best 
 poppy-seed oil, which should be as 
 clear as water; mix all intimately to- 
 gether and keep it for use. 
 
 Parisian Bronze Lacquer. Dissolve 
 1 part of shellac in 8 to 10 of alcohol 
 and add to the solution i part of 
 camphor rubbed up with a few drops of 
 lavender oil. 
 
 Black Polish on Iron and Steel. A 
 beautiful black polish is obtained by 
 boiling 1 part of sulphur with 10 of oil 
 of turpentine, but it has a disagreeable 
 odor. A coat as thin as possible is laid 
 on the article to be polished, which is 
 then held over the flame of an alcohol 
 lamp until the black polish makes its 
 appearance. 
 
 A New Varnish (patented in Ger- 
 many), which serves as substitute for 
 linseed oil or oil of turpentine, is pre- 
 pared in the following manner: 100 
 parts of rosin free from oil of tur- 
 pentine, 20 of crystallized soda, and 50 
 of water are heated together and then 
 intimately mixed with 250 parts of 
 water containing 24 of aqua ammonia. 
 The coloring substances are rubbed 
 
 up with this preparation without an 
 addition of linseed oil, or oil of turpen- 
 tine ; they dry easily without a sicca- 
 tive, and can be coated with lacquer. 
 This varnish becomes very hard, resists 
 the action of water arid atmospheric 
 influences, and is about i cheaper than 
 ordinary varnish. 
 
 Parisian Bookbinders' Lacquer. Dis- 
 solve on the water-bath 360 parts of shel- 
 lac and 2 parts each of camphor and loaf 
 sugar in 3000 parts of alcohol of 66 per 
 cent. Filter the solution through blot- 
 ting-paper, distil otf i of the alcohol, 
 and add to the residue, while yet warm, 
 a trace of oil of cinnamon. 
 
 Excellent Glass-like Varnish. Dis- 
 solve at a moderate heat 4 parts of 
 camphor, 60 parts of sandarac, 15 parts 
 each of Venetian turpentine and oil of 
 turpentine, and 4 parts of white sugar 
 in 400 parts of spirit of wine of 96 per 
 cent., and clarify the solution by allow- 
 ing it to stand for some time. In using 
 the varnish expose the article to be 
 coated to a gentle heat, and then apply 
 the solution, which, when it becomes 
 dry, will form a beautiful, glass-like 
 coat. 
 
 Varnish for Wood Naturally Colored 
 or Stained. Pulverize and dissolve 
 3 parts of light-colored shellac, 2 of 
 sandarac, 2 of white rosin, and i of 
 camphor in 24 of alcohol of 80 per 
 cent. Put, first, the shellac, sandarac, 
 and camphor in the alcohol, tie up the 
 vessel with a piece of wet bladder and 
 shake it for half an hour ; then add the 
 rosin, and let the mixture boil up sev- 
 eral times in a suitable vessel. Filter 
 the ready varnish, while yet warm, 
 through cotton or felt, and to clarify 
 it let it stand for 12 hours in a well- 
 closed bottle. No more varnish than 
 is to be used in 2 or 3 days should be 
 prepared at one time, since age impairs 
 its beauty and hardness. 
 
 Colorless Varnish. Boil 500 parts 
 of linseed oil with 1000 of water for 2 
 hours ; then add 60 parts of silver 
 litharge, 45 of sugar of lead, one onion, t 
 and a small piece of pumice-stone, and 
 then heat the mixture for some time 
 longer. 
 
 French Leather Lacquer. Boil 15 
 parts of logwood shavings in 120 of or- 
 dinary water until but half the quan- 
 tity remains ; dissolve in this 2 parts 
 
LACQUERS AND VARNISHES. 
 
 211 
 
 of sugar and 12 of gum- Arabic and 
 compound the mixture with solution of 
 ferric sulphate until the previously 
 brown-red color of the decoction has 
 changed into a violet-blue tint, and 
 finally add some spirit of wine. 
 
 Cheap Lacquer for Harnesses and 
 Carriage Toj)s. Soak 2 parts of glue 
 and then liquefy it over a moderate fire. 
 Then dissolve 3 parts of ordinary soap 
 over a moderate fire and add this to the 
 solution of glue. About 120 parts of 
 water are used for dissolving both in- 
 gredients. After the two solutions have 
 been intimately mixed add 3 to 4 parts 
 of spirit varnish, and finally stir into 
 the mixture 2 parts of good wheat starch 
 previously triturated with some water. 
 Now place the pot containing the mixt- 
 ure over a moderate coal fire, and let 
 it evaporate, although it may also be 
 used before evaporation. The evapor- 
 ated mass, when to be used, is liquefied 
 by adding beer or water. The thinner 
 the coat the more beautiful will be the 
 gloss. 
 
 Lacquer for Drawings. Dissolve 30 
 
 . to 40 parts of dammar in 180 parts of 
 
 acetone and then mix 40 parts of this 
 
 solution with 30 parts of thickly-fluid 
 
 collodion. 
 
 Transparent Lacquer for Closing 
 Bottles. A process of closing bottles, 
 which is more elegant and effectual 
 than with tinfoil, has recently been 
 introduced in France. The neck of the 
 bottle is dipped into a tenacious mass 
 and quickly withdrawn with a rotary 
 motion, if is in this manner covered 
 with a transparent mass, which can be 
 given a still more beautiful appearance 
 by placing the monogram of the firm 
 or other label on the neck of the bottle 
 or on the cork. The preparation con- 
 sists of 20 parts of rosin, 40 of ether, 
 60 of collodion, and any desired color- 
 ing matter. 
 
 Tar Varnish. Tar is intimately 
 mixed with equal parts of hydraulic 
 lime and Roman or Portland cement, 
 by heating the ingredients to 158 F. 
 The mixture remains thinly fluid and, 
 when dry, soft and flexible. This 
 varnish is not acted upon by acids and 
 protects wood from rotting. It is 
 especially adapted for wood under 
 
 practice of pumicing furniture \ 
 is now supplanted by Rossbach'i 
 
 Water, shingles, and water-pipes. 
 Polishing of Wood. The 
 
 former 
 
 with oil 
 a patent 
 
 (now expired) of pumicing dry and 
 coating with a mixture of 285 parts of 
 copal, 57 of oil of turpentine, 628 of in- 
 fusorial earth, and 28 of umber, prin- 
 cipally used for walnut and chestnut; 
 for rose-wood, carmine is used in place 
 of umber, for oak, ochre, etc. A solu- 
 tion of 3 parts of shellac, 2 of copal, and 
 
 1 of oil of rosemary in 10 of alcohol is 
 used as a ground lacquer. 
 
 Elastic Lacquer. Slake 15 parts of 
 lime with 20 parts of water, and add, 
 while the lime is yet warm, 50 parts of 
 melted crude caoutchouc. When cold 
 the lacquer is in the form of a paste. 
 It is best applied warm. 
 
 Black Earnest Lacquer. Dissolve 
 I 40 parts of best shellac, 10 parts of 
 ' sandarac, and 5 parts of mastic in 500 
 j parts of spirit of wine. To prevent 
 the lacquer from becoming brittle add 
 to the solution 20 to 30 parts of pure 
 Venetian turpentine, and finally suf- 
 ficient aniline-black (nigrosine) dis- 
 solved in water or spirit of wine. 
 
 Parchment Fluid is prepared from 
 gutta-percha soaked and swelled up in 
 ether. It is used for coating pictures, 
 maps, etc. The coat, if stained, or soiled, 
 can be washed with a moist sponge. 
 Crayon and charcoal drawings can be 
 fixed by coating them with this 
 lacquer. 
 
 To provide Bars of Spring Steel U'ith 
 a Coating not acted upon by Acids, 
 Alkalies, Chlorine, and Steam. The 
 bars are first coated with copal or as- 
 phaltum lacquer and dried at a high 
 temperature. They are then wrapped in 
 several layers of strongly-pressed paper 
 impregnated with chromium glue, and 
 subjected to a very strong pressure, and 
 finally receive a coat of the following 
 compound : Fifty parts of China clay, 
 10 of shellac, 8 of sandarac, 3 of elemi, 
 
 2 of gun-cotton, 0.5 of camphor, and 5 
 of oil of lavender (from Larendula 
 spica) dissolved in 100 parts of alcohol. 
 When half dry the bars are again sub- 
 jected to pressure, and when entirely 
 dry, ground. 
 
 "Aluminium P Imitate and its Uses 
 in different Branches of Industry. 
 Aluminium palmitate, a combination 
 of alumina and palmitic acid, is a resin- 
 ous substance of remarkable properties, 
 
212 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 making it useful for many purposes. 
 It melts at a higher temperature than 
 dammar and copal resin, and is easily 
 soluble in oil of turpentine and benzine. 
 A solution of 1 part of it in 5 of a sol- 
 vent retains a lacquer-like, thickly- 
 fluid consistency. The lacquer obtained 
 in this manner does not soak through 
 paper, never becomes brittle, but re- 
 mains flexible and dries quickly. It 
 has a beautiful silky gloss, bears an 
 addition of any amount of dammar and 
 copal, obtaining thereby greater gloss 
 and depriving the latter two resins of 
 their brittleness. Aluminium palmi- 
 tate will without doubt be of great im- 
 portance in the manufacture of wall 
 paper, lacquers, artificial leather, water- 
 proof substances, etc. Lacquer pre- 
 pared from it will be of great value in 
 manufacturing gold wall papers and for 
 coating genuine and imitation leather 
 hangings, giving to the latter the char- 
 acteristic gloss of stamped leather and 
 preserving it in the first. It furnishes 
 also an excellent vegetable glue which 
 does not spoil, is, and remains, entirely 
 neutral, and consequently exerts no 
 injurious influence upon the shades of 
 the colors. This makes it especially 
 useful in the manufacture of velvet 
 wall papers. If used as a sizing on 
 cotton fabrics, it imparts to them a 
 silky gloss which does not entirely dis- 
 appear even after frequent washings. 
 This sizing, on account of its neutrality 
 and entire indifference, can be used for 
 fabrics printed with the most critical 
 colors without injuring them in the 
 least. Palmitate lacquer is not acted 
 upon by water and can therefore, as it 
 remains perfectly flexible, be advan- 
 tageously used in the manufacture of 
 artificial leather, rubber tissues, and 
 water-proof fabrics, its property of being 
 entirely inodorous when dry deserving 
 special commendation. 
 
 New Method of Preparing Fat Lac- 
 quer and Varnish, Patented in Ger- 
 many by Zimmermann and Holtzwich. 
 The resins are melted by a current of 
 air heated above the melting point of 
 the resins and circulating in the melt- 
 ing apparatus. The products escaping 
 in melting are collected in a cooled and 
 closed receiver. The warm current of 
 air, after it leaves the melting appa- 
 ratus, serves to convert the linseed oil 
 
 into varnish. The addition of litharge 
 is saved by the use of lead vessels or 
 lining them with sheet lead. The lin- 
 seed oil flows slowly down in an appa- 
 ratus through several boxes placed 
 above each other, from whence it 
 reaches a reservoir (a kind of montejus), 
 is pumped up by compressed air into 
 another vessel, and flows from this 
 again through the boxes, the operation 
 being repeated until it is converted 
 into varnish. With this apparatus a 
 light-colored fine varnish of excellent 
 consistency, equal to the best English 
 varnish, is prepared in about one 
 quarter of the time used in the ordi- 
 nary process. 
 
 Light Copal Varnish with Coal-tar 
 Varnish Oil. Light copal 2 parts, 
 light rosin 1, sandarac and Venetian 
 turpentine each ^, varnish oil 10. 
 Pulverize and melt together the copal 
 and rosin, then add the sandarac, and 
 finally the turpentine ; stir until all are 
 dissolved, let it cool somewhat and 
 then add the varnish oil, first in small 
 portions and finally the remainder. 
 Filter the varnish through cotton. 
 
 Light Parisian Varnish with Coal- 
 tar Varnish Oil. Light sandarac 3 
 parts, light rosin and mastic each 1, 
 Venetian turpentine i camphor and 
 oil of -lavender each -fa, varnish oil 12, 
 absolute alcohol 2. Melt the sandarac, 
 rosin, and mastic together and then 
 add the turpentine. Dissolve the cam- 
 phor and oil of lavender in the abso- 
 lute alcohol, and add finally to the 
 varnish. 
 
 Light Varnish for Lacquering Photo- 
 graphic Negatives. Dammar 1 part, 
 mastic \, sandarac , chloroform and 
 varnish oil each 10. Pulverize the 
 resin, pour the chloroform over them, 
 then add the varnish oil, and digest the 
 whole in a sand-bath until all are dis- 
 solved. Filter the varnish through 
 clean cotton and keep it in well-closed 
 bottles. It dries very easily. 
 
 English Method of Varnishing 
 Coaches. The superiority of English 
 work is largely due to the fact that, 
 though the same materials are used, 
 more care is exercised in preparing the 
 varnishes, and greater attention paid to 
 preparing the wood-work for the recep- 
 tion of the varnish. 
 Pumicing. Grind a smooth face on a 
 
LACQUEKS AND VARNISHES. 
 
 213 
 
 piece of pumice-stone, then sift some 
 pulverized pumice-stone through a hair 
 sieve, and dipping the ground face of 
 the stone into this powder, pumice the 
 panels of the coach ; then cleanse thor- 
 oughly with a brush, and finish them 
 with a cloth. 
 
 Puttying. Before laying on the 
 ground color, all holes, cracks, and in- 
 dentations must be puttied up. The 
 putty used is prepared by mixing 
 white lead, red lead, umber, and a lit- 
 tle silver litharge with thick boiled 
 linseed-oil varnish and adding a little 
 amber varnish. Press the putty into 
 the holes and cracks by means of a 
 wooden spatula. When the putty is 
 dry dip a piece of pumice-stone in water 
 and grind the puttied places down 
 so that they become even with the 
 panels. 
 
 Saturating the Panels with Oil. For 
 this purpose a mixture of equal parts 
 of Unseed oil and linseed-oil varnish is 
 used. Pour both into a pot, mix 
 thoroughly, make the mixture boiling 
 hot, and then saturate the panels. 
 When the first coat is thoroughly 
 soaked in, repeat the operation, and 
 then allow it to dry thoroughly. 
 
 Laying on the Ground. The ground 
 color is prepared by rubbing 1500 parts 
 of white lead, 66 parts of red lead, 16 
 parts of litharge, and 33 parts of burnt 
 umber with oil of turpentine, and di- 
 luting it with amber lac varnish. Do 
 not lay on the ground color too thick 
 at one time, but apply several thin 
 coats. Care should also be had that 
 the color shows no lustre ; should this 
 be the case add some oil of turpentine. 
 
 Pumicing the Ground. Moioten two 
 pieces of pumice-stone with water, and 
 rub them against each other until they 
 have a smooth surface ; use one of them 
 for pumicing, dipping it frequently in 
 water. The pumicing must be done in 
 a circular direction, so that no place 
 remains untouched. The color adhering 
 to the pumice-stone is removed by 
 rubbing with the other piece after both 
 have been dipped in water. While 
 pumicing wash the panels frequently 
 with a large, wet sponge, and finally- 
 dry them Avith a white linen cloth. 
 
 Laying on the Paint. Proceed in 
 the same manner as for ground, with 
 the exception that, if the color is 
 
 light, pale amber lac varnish must 
 be used. 
 
 First Pumicing of the Paint. Pul- 
 verize some pumice-stone and pass the 
 powder through a hair sieve. Roll a 
 piece of well-fulled felt and tie it to 
 prevent its unrolling during pumicing. 
 Then, with the felt moistened with 
 water and dipped into the sifted pumice- 
 stone powder, pumice the paint as 
 smooth as possible, rubbing always 
 with a circular motion. 
 
 Second Pumicing of the Paint. Cal- 
 cine pumice-stone by placing it on a 
 coal fire, then rub it to a fine powder 
 with water upon a stone, and allow it 
 to dry. Then rub it very fine once 
 more, and with a piece of felt, but not 
 rolled together as before, moistened 
 and dipped into the powder, rub in 
 every direction until a glossy surface 
 results. 
 
 Third Pumicing of the Paint. For 
 this purpose white prepared buck's 
 horn is used. The work is done with a 
 piece of felt moistened and dipped in in 
 the same manner as for the second 
 pumicing. The paint is then cleansed 
 by washing with a sponge and water, 
 dried with a soft linen cloth, and finally 
 rubbed with a piece of chamois, until 
 the paint has a mirror-like lustre. 
 
 Laying on the Lac Varnish. In do- 
 ing this the following rules must be ob- 
 served : 
 
 1. Use only the best brushes, and 
 apply the lacquer in long, perpendicular 
 strokes, taking care that the coat is 
 everywhere of equal thickness. 
 
 2. The lacquer must be applied cold, 
 and the second coat only laid on after 
 the first is thoroughly dry. 
 
 3. Lacquering should only be done 
 in a room protected from dust and ver- 
 min ; when the lacquer is no longer 
 sticky the carriage may be brought into 
 the air. 
 
 4. When the carriage has been 
 placed in the sun, it must be frequently 
 turned, so that the sun does not beat 
 too steadily against one place. 
 
 5. The lacquer should be contained 
 in a wide-mouthed vessel so that the 
 brush can be dipped into it without 
 hindrance. Do not take too much of it 
 on the brush ; after dipping in, turn the 
 
 I brush several times, and strike it 
 1 against the side of the vessel. 
 
214 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 6. Prepare your own lacquer, for 
 which several tested receipts will be 
 found below, or buy it only from a well- 
 known firm. 
 
 Polishing the Lacquer. Use a piece 
 of very soft, clean felt. Dip it first in a 
 little olive oil and then in prepared 
 white buck's horn, and rub the lacquer 
 until it has a lustre equal to a ground 
 mirror plate ; and finally rub it with a 
 soft linen or silk cloth dipped in fine 
 starch flour. 
 
 Ordinary Body Carriage Lacquer. 
 Boil for 4 hours 2 parts of the best 
 African copal, 7 parts of clarified lin- 
 seed oil, and 8 parts of turpentine. Mix 
 thoroughly and strain. On the other 
 hand, boil as usual, 2 parts of the best 
 gum anime, 5 parts of clarified linseed 
 oil, and 7 parts of turpentine. Strain 
 while hot, and put it into the pot used 
 for preparing the copal varnish. Mix 
 2 parts of the anime varnish with one 
 of copal varnish; it will dry quicker 
 and harder than the best body copal 
 varnish, and will polish very soon. 
 
 Quick-drying Body Copal Varnish. 
 Boil 200 parts of best copal, 500 parts 
 of clarified linseed oil, 6 parts of dry 
 sugar of lead, and 800 parts of turpen- 
 tine until viscid, and then strain. Boil 
 in another pot 200 parts of gum anime, 
 500 parts of clarified linseed oil, 6 parts 
 of sulphate of zinc ; strain while hot, 
 and mix equal parts of the two var- 
 nishes. This varnish will dry in 6 to 
 7 hours in winter, and in 3 to 4 in sum- 
 mer. 
 
 Neil's Carriage Lacquers. I. Melt 2 
 parts of best copal, add gradually 10 
 parts of clarified linseed oil, boil until 
 viscid, then reduce it with 6 parts of 
 oil of turpentine, and filter. 
 
 II. Melt 2 parts of gum anime, add 
 5 parts of clarified linseed oil, boil until 
 viscid, reduce with 7 parts of oil of tur- 
 pentine, and filter. The two lacquers 
 can be used either bv themselves or, in 
 case a quick-drying lacquer is required, 
 mixed in equal parts. 
 
 LEATHER: TANNING, AND DYEING, 
 
 INCLUDING FURS, ETC. 
 
 New Tanning Process. According 
 to the process patented by J. & C. Bnl- 
 latschano, and H. Trenck, of Berlin, the 
 
 hides are treated with the following 
 fluids: For solution No. 1, 20 to 30 
 parts of chromate of alumina are dis- 
 solved in 20 to 30 of wood vinegar, and 
 diluted with water to 1000 parts. For 
 solution No. 2, a concentrated solution 
 of tartar is compounded with some am- 
 monio-nickel chloride dissolved in am- 
 monia. The skins, carefully freed from 
 lime, are then placed in a mixture of 2 
 parts of the first and 1 of the second 
 solution, 18 to 21 days being sufficient 
 for thick bullock hides. 
 
 Quick Tanning Process. The hides 
 are subjected to the ordinary treatment 
 in running water, and then placed in a 
 fulling trough hermetically closed. 
 The water in the trough contains to 
 every 100 pounds of hides weighed as 
 taken from the water, a solution of 30 
 pounds of divi-divi, 20 pounds of bark 
 of oak root, 30 pounds of alum, 65 
 pounds of acidulated barley meal, and 
 1 pound of sulphate of copper. The 
 hides in the fulling trough are fre- 
 quently turned for 24 hours, and then 
 brought together with the tanning fluid 
 into an ordinary vat, where for 15 to 20 
 days they are taken out daily and then 
 put back again. After the expiration 
 of this time they are put in tan in an 
 ordinary pit, where they remain 15 to 
 30 days, when they are finished. In 
 place of divi-divi and bark of oak root 
 other materials containing tannin may 
 be used, and sulphate of alumina may 
 be substituted for alum, and sulphate 
 of zinc, sulphate of ammonia, or other 
 sulphates for sulphate of copper, the 
 characteristic feature of this process be- 
 ing the use of the tannin and alum at 
 the same time and in presence of the 
 sulphate of copper. 
 
 Manufacture of Calf Kid, in Phila- 
 delphia. Choice skins only can be 
 used. From 6 to 10 pounds is the most 
 suitable weight, although some manu- 
 facturers turning out a heavier article, 
 use skins weighing as much as 18 
 pounds. The skins, whether green or 
 salted, are soaked, according to the 
 season of the year, for 12 or 14 hours, a 
 few hours more in winter and less in 
 summer, this depending entirely on 
 the condition of the skins and the tem- 
 perature of the water. They are then 
 "stretched," when they are again 
 soaked for 1 to 2 hours, and are then 
 
LEATHER, TANNING, DYEING, ETC. 
 
 215 
 
 ready for liming. The skins, as a 
 general rule, are first placed in old 
 lime for at least 1 to 2 days, and then 
 in fresh lime for about 6" days. For 
 preparing the fresh lime-bath 3 bushels 
 of lime are taken to 12 dozen of skins. 
 The skins, when coming from the lime- 
 bath, are depilated and thrown into 
 fresh water in order to wash out the 
 lime. They are then fleshed. The 
 well-known ooze, consisting of dog dung 
 mixed with pigeon dung, is then pre- 
 pared. Opinions differ as regards the 
 quantity of ooze to be used, every manu- 
 facturer being guided by his own ex- 
 perience and judgment. The skins 
 remain in the ooze from 30 minutes to 
 2 hours, when they are smoothed and 
 then thrown into a mixture of bran and 
 water, where they remain for 24 hours. 
 They are then taken out, washed and 
 cleansed from all adhering particles of 
 bran, and scraped. The skins are now 
 ready for the aluming. For a dozen 
 skins take 2i pounds of alum, about 13 
 to 14 ounces of salt, the yelks of 24 
 eggs, and 2V pounds of flour; mix all 
 thoroughly together, throw the skins 
 into the mixture, and let them lie in it 
 over night. They are then hung up to 
 dry in the air, after which they are 
 stretched and pared down to the desired 
 thickness. They are again dried in the 
 air to prepare them for the second bath, 
 consisting of eggs and salt, and again 
 stretched, when they are ready for dye- 
 ing. This is done with a preparation 
 of a bichromate salt, urine, logwood, 
 and sulphuric acid. They are again 
 hung up and dried, smoothed, and 
 finally ironed, after which they are 
 oiled with prepared neats-foot oil and 
 rubbed with caoutchouc to remove the 
 oil, which finishes the work, 4 to 6 
 weeks being required to prepare such a 
 skin. 
 
 To Depilate Hides. The sulphide 
 of sodium sometimes fails to entirely 
 remove the epidermis, causing ugly 
 stains on the leather. In such case 
 treat the skin, imperfectly depilated, 
 with milk of lime, which quickly re- 
 moves all traces of the epidermis. 
 
 Currier's Black Gloss. Eitner gives 
 the following receipt for preparing a 
 gloss for oiled leather, especially for 
 corned and smooth calf-skins: Pour 1 
 quart of alcohol of 95 per cent, over i 
 
 pound of ruby shellac, close the flask 
 hermetically, let it stand in a warm 
 
 lace for 2 or 3 days, shaking it every 
 ay, until the shellac is dissolved. Then 
 dissolve 1 ounce of dry Castile soap in 
 i pint of warm alcohol of 95 per cent., 
 add to it li ounces of glycerine, shake 
 thoroughly, and then add this mixture 
 to the solution of shellac. To give to it 
 a beautiful black color, dissolve U 
 drachms of aniline black soluble iu 
 1 gill of alcohol, add this to the other 
 mixture, close the flask hermetically, 
 shake thoroughly, and let the mixture 
 stand in a warm place for 14 days be- 
 fore using it. 
 
 Heating the Liquor in Tanning. 
 Hot liquor should never be used in tan- 
 ning. Liquors of 70 to 80 F. may be 
 used without harm in the last stages, 
 when the leather is completely tanned. 
 There has always been a doubt whether 
 warm liquors improve the quality of 
 the leather, it being possible that" the 
 process of tanning is somewhat facili- 
 tated thereby. The strength of the 
 liquors and their frequent use facilitate 
 tanning and increase the weight. 
 
 Jfeinzerling's Quick Method of Tnn~ 
 ning. The cost of production with this 
 process is claimed to be 20 to 25 per 
 cent, cheaper than with the use of tan, 
 and only 3 days are required for tan- 
 ning light hides and 5 for heavier ones. 
 The process (patented in Germany) is 
 as follows: The green hides are depi- 
 lated and swelled in the usual manner. 
 They are then brought into a solution of 
 bichromate of potassium, or bichromate 
 of sodium, or bichromate of magnesium 
 and alum, or sulphate of aluminium and 
 chloride of soda, and allowed to remain 
 in it for a shorter or longer time, accord- 
 ing to the kind of hides. Instead of 
 placing the skins directly in this solu- 
 tion, they may first be brought into a 
 5 to 10 per cent, solution of alum to 
 which some zinc dust or sheet zinc cut 
 up in shavings has been added. The 
 action of the zinc upon the alum pro- 
 duces amorphous alumina which is pre- 
 cipitated upon the fibres. After the 
 skins have remained in the alum solu- 
 tion for a shorter or longer time, accord- 
 ing to their condition, they are brought 
 into one of the first-mentioned solutions, 
 its degree of concentration depending 
 on the nature of the skins to be tanned. 
 
216 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 After remaining in it for a few 
 few percent, of ferrocyanide of potassium 
 is added, although this may be done in 
 the commencement of the operation. 
 For many varieties of leather the addi- 
 tion of ferrocyanide of potassium is omit- 
 ted, but for upper leather, to be black- 
 ened, this treatment is very suitable. 
 
 To fix the tannin on the skins thus 
 treated, they are soaked for a short 
 time in a solution either of chloride of 
 barium or acetate of lead, or of soap, 
 and are then dried in the ordinary 
 manner. 
 
 The smoothed skins, while yet moist, 
 can be oiled in the same manner as 
 tanned leather. The oil may be worked 
 in, or the skins can be submerged for 
 some time in stearine, paraffine, chry- 
 sene, naphtha, or similar substances, 
 previously dissolved in benzine, photo- 
 gene, etc. It is well to add some car- 
 bolic acid or thymol to the solution. 
 
 Boegel's Process of Quick Tanning. 
 The green hides are depilated and 
 soaked in the usual manner. They are 
 then placed in a solution of any vege- 
 table tannin or a solution containing a 
 mixture of several vegetable kinds of 
 tannin. To this are added acetate of 
 alumina, chloride of soda, and picric 
 acid, in alternate smaller or larger 
 quantities, according to the nature of 
 the skins. As an average, 50 pounds 
 of acetate of alumina, 10 pounds of chlo- 
 ride of soda, and a like quantity of 
 picric acid are used to 200 pounds of 
 vegetable tannin. This tanning fluid 
 produces calf leather in 14 days, kip 
 leather in 3 to 4 weeks, bullock leather 
 in 5 to 6 weeks, sole leather in 6 to 8 
 weeks; the quality of the different 
 kinds of leather being such that they 
 cannot be distinguished from leather 
 tanned in the ordinary manner. 
 
 Jungsch lager's Quick Process of Tan- 
 ning. The green hides are placed in 
 a solution of water-glass of 4 to 5 
 Beaume, and worked in it from time 
 to time until the hair can be removed. 
 They are then placed in a solution of 
 2 parts of alum, 0.6 of common salt, a 
 like quantity of sulphate of copper, 
 and 0.2 of sulphate of zinc in 100 of 
 water. During the 5 days the skins 
 are allowed to remain in this solution 
 it is concentrated more and more, and 
 finally brought into the most concen- 
 
 trated form, consisting of 10 parts of 
 aluni, 3 each of common salt and sul- 
 phate of copper, and 1 of sulphate of 
 zinc. The skins remain for 8 days in 
 this last solution, are then dried at 70 
 to 85 F., and saturated with tallow, 
 stearine, etc., at 95 to 110 F. The 
 oiled skins are now brought into a so- 
 lution of soap compounded with soda, 
 in order to fix the metallic salts and to 
 partly saponify the fat. They are finally 
 finished in the same manner as tanned 
 leather. 
 
 New Process of Depilating Hides. 
 The hides are placed in a solution pre- 
 pared by mixing together dilute solu- 
 tions of ammonia and sulphurous acid. 
 
 Woolly hides are coated on the flesh 
 side with a dough made of potter's clay 
 and the above mixture. In place of 
 ammonia the salts of ammonia may 
 be used. 
 
 To Prepare Transparent Leather. 
 The cleansed skin is repeatedly coated 
 with a mixture of 100 parts of glycer- 
 ine, 0.2 of salicylic acid, 0.2 of picric 
 acid, and 2.5 of borax; then nearly 
 dried and impregnated in a dark room 
 w r ith a solution of bichromate of potas- 
 sium ; then completely dried and coated 
 on both sides with shellac varnish. 
 
 To Preserve and Water-proof 8kins. 
 Two baths are used : A. Compound 10 
 pounds of drying oil (linseed oil) with 
 2 pounds of concentrated sulphuric acid ; 
 neutralize with soda and wash with 
 water. To the heated mass add a thick 
 solution of 12 ounces of glue to which 
 has been added, to make the glue in- 
 soluble, i ounce of oxalic acid or If 
 ounces of salicylic acid. 
 
 Reduce the compound before using it 
 with fat or oil, or, where the odor is 
 not annoying, with turpentine or tar 
 oil ; and, when the leather requires to 
 be less dense, with ethereal oils, alco- 
 hol, or water. 
 
 B. Dissolve 10 pounds of glue or gela- 
 tine in 250 gallons of water, compound 
 the solution with 6V pounds of oxalic 
 acid or 20 pounds of salicylic acid, and 
 finally mix it with 100 pounds of solu- 
 tion of acetate of aluminium. The grain 
 side of the leather is coated with the 
 mixture A, dried, and then immersed 
 in B ; again dried, then tanned in Bal- 
 latschano's and Trench's tanning bath 
 (see above), and dried. This process 
 
LEATHER, TANNING, DYEING, ETC. 
 
 217 
 
 may be repeated. When dry, the leather 
 is placed in cold water, whereby sub- 
 stances not absorbed are brought to the 
 surface of the leather, from which they 
 must be removed. 
 
 Textile substances, wood, paper, etc., 
 can in a similar manner be made water- 
 proof, durable, and flexible. 
 
 To Prepare Calf Leather with a White 
 Flesh-side Smooth as a Mirror. The 
 skins are tanned with sumach, dried, 
 and pared. They are then fulled very 
 soft, dyed on the grain side, racked, 
 stretched over a frame, and dried. 
 When the grained side is finished the 
 flesh side is pumiced, coated with the 
 white color, and glass-papered. For 
 the white color for a dozen skins 2 
 pounds of Spanish white and 12 ounces 
 of white tallow soap are stirred together 
 with the white of 12 eggs and 2J gal- 
 lons of water. 
 
 To Preserve the Yelks of Eggs used in 
 Tawing Glove Leather. Rub fine in a 
 mortar or upon a stone 1 pound of yelks 
 of eggs, i ounce of common salt, and 
 I ounce of starch. The mixture, on 
 thickening, is poured into moulds and 
 dried in the air. Yelks of eggs thus pre- 
 pared answer the same purpose as fresh. 
 
 To Preserve Hair in a Tannery. Pour 
 salt water, or brine already used, over it 
 and store it in pits set out with stones. 
 
 To Improve Hides and Skins. The 
 depilated and cleansed skins are placed 
 in a fluid compounded with glycerine, 
 and allowed to remain until thoroughly 
 saturated. This will require from 1 to 
 4 clays, according to the thickness of 
 the skins. They are then taken out, 
 freed from the* excess of glycerine, 
 dried, and stored away for future use. 
 Skins moderately tanned can also be 
 subjected to the same operation. Skins 
 thus prepared can be advantageously 
 used for machine belts, straps, etc. 
 
 DYEING LEATHER. Azure on Tawed 
 White Leather. Rub Berlin blue with 
 some sour milk, and let it stand on a 
 plate for several hours ; then add some 
 dilute sulphuric acid and sugar water, 
 stir the whole thoroughly, and then 
 apply the color repeatedly, by means 
 of a 'sponge, to the leather stretched 
 over a frame. The leather should be 
 drawn over the stretcher every time 
 before a new coat is laid on. 
 
 Black on Leather. Sixty -six parts of 
 
 iron filings and 33 parts of bruised gall- 
 nuts are boiled in 2000 parts of sharp 
 wine vinegar until reduced to half the 
 quantity. Strain the liquor and apply 
 it to the skins. 
 
 Blue on Leather. Moisten the leather 
 with alum dissolved in urine and dye 
 with strained juice of corn-flowers.* 
 
 Red on Morocco. Pulverize the 
 woody parts of lac, add gall-nuts, 
 alum, and some cochineal ; boil these 
 ingredients in water until a red liquor 
 is obtained. Apply this liquor to the 
 leather and finish by giving it a coat 
 of a strained decoction of bruised white 
 gall-nuts in water. 
 
 Saffron-yellow on Leather. Boil 250 
 parts of fine shavings of sour barberry 
 root and 15 parts of pulverized turmeric 
 in water, in an earthen pot. Strain the 
 liquor through linen and add a few 
 drops of aqua-fortis. 
 
 Dyeing of Chamois Skins. The colors 
 are applied with a brush. 
 
 Black. Apply, first, a strong decoc- 
 tion of logwood, next dilute solution of 
 sulphate of iron, and, finally, a decoc- 
 tion of logwood. Soap water and pot- 
 ash lye are used to give gloss to the color. 
 
 Green. Use buckthorn berries and 
 as much alum as is required to pro- 
 duce the desired tint. 
 
 Gray. Apply lampblack and whis- 
 key, dry the skin, and brush off the 
 excess of dry color. 
 
 Tan. Use decoction of oak-bark, 
 and, according to the lighter or darker 
 shade desired, add more or less pulver- 
 ized brown-red. 
 
 Yellow. Mix light or dark ochre 
 with water. 
 
 Yellowish-brown. Mix brown-red 
 and umber with water. 
 
 Dyes for Ordinary Tawed Leather. 
 Blue. Dissolve 40 parts of Berlin blue 
 and 8 parts of gum-Arabic in a little 
 water, strain the fluid through a cloth, 
 and then add sufficient water to pro- 
 duce the desired tint. 
 
 Camel-brown. Boil 2 pounds of oak 
 tan, 2 ounces of sumach, and 1 ounce of 
 Bnizil wood, and some onion peels in 
 water. Apply the color warm. 
 
 Chest mi t-brown. Boil 1 pound of 
 ground logwood, 2 pounds of ground 
 Brazil wood, 1 pound of ground fustic, 
 and 4 ounces of gall-nuts in water. 
 
 * Germ., 
 
218 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Coffee-brown. Boil 2 pounds of 
 ground oak tan and 1 pound of ground 
 fustic and some lye in water. Then 
 boil If ounces of Brazil wood and 1 
 ounce of ground logwood in water. 
 Add gradually of this to the first decoc- 
 tion until the fluid has assumed a 
 brown color, and then add more or less 
 sulphate of iron dissolved in warm 
 water, according as the tint is more or 
 less dark. 
 
 Flesh Color. Boil 4 ounces of bruised 
 Avignon berries and 25 grains of pot- 
 ash, and add gradually decoction of 
 Brazil wood until the desired tint is 
 obtained. 
 
 Garnet. Boil 4 ounce of Brazil wood 
 and some turmeric in water. 
 
 Green. Boil 10 pounds of ground 
 fustet, 2 pounds of logwood, and a like 
 (quantity of fustic in water, add to the 
 infusion 4 pound of decoction of gall- 
 nuts, and dissolve 3 ounces of sulphate 
 of copper in the mixture. 
 
 Another Receipt. Use decoction of 
 buckthorn berries. 
 
 Another Receipt. Boil 1 pound of 
 ground logwood, 1 ounce each of onion 
 peels cut up and ground fustic, and 2 
 ounces of alum, for 2 hours in the 
 requisite quantity of water. 
 
 Lilac. Boil for 2 hours 12 ounces of 
 logwood, a little lime and some alum 
 in sufficient water, and add 2 to 3 
 ounces of decoction of Brazil wood. 
 
 Olive-green. Boil fustic and some 
 bruised gall-nuts in water, and add 
 solution of sulphate of iron until the 
 desired tint is obtained. 
 
 Orange. Boil sumach, double the quan- 
 tity of fustic, and onion peels in water. 
 
 "Rose-color. Boil for 1 hour, 15 
 grains of cochineal, cut fine, in 1 pound 
 of water, and add 2 ounces of decoction 
 of logwood and 6 drops of hydrochloric 
 acid. 
 
 Scarlet. Boil 1 pound of logwood, 8 
 ounces of Brazil wood, 2 ounces of onion 
 peels, some common salt, and alum in 
 4 gallons of water. 
 
 Violet. Mix 8 ounces of decoction of 
 logwood with 2 ounces of decoction of 
 Brazil wood, and dissolve li ounces of 
 alum in the fluid. 
 
 Yellow (Dark). Boil 8 ounces of 
 Avignon berries finely pulverized, i 
 ounce of potash, and some fustic with 
 water. 
 
 Yellow (Pale). Decoction of quer- 
 citron or fustic. 
 
 Dyes for Kid Leather. Azure. Dis- 
 solve 2 ounces of prussiate of potash in 
 1 gallons of tepid water, brush the so- 
 lution over the skin until it is perme- 
 ated, and then give a light coat of weak 
 solution of nitrate of iron. 
 
 Black. Boil 3 pounds of logwood, 
 and 8 ounces to 1 pound of fustic shav- 
 ings in 1 \ gallons of water, filter, apply 
 the liquor to the leather, and give a 
 coat of solution of sulphate of iron. The 
 black skins then receive a coat of fat on 
 the grain side. 
 
 Brown. I. Mix 25 pounds of decoc- 
 tion of willow bark, 8 pounds of decoc- 
 tion of elder bark, 1 pound of decoction 
 of logwood, and some indigo-carmine. 
 
 II. Mix 35 pounds of decoction of 
 willow bark, 8| pounds of decoction of 
 fustet, and S ounces of logwood. - 
 
 Brown {Dark}. I. Mix 8 pounds of 
 decoction of fustic, 2 pounds of infusion 
 of huckleberries, 4 ounces of decoc- 
 tion of logwood, and some indigo-car- 
 mine. 
 
 II. Mix 17i pounds of decoction of 
 fustet, 44 pounds of decoction of fustic, 
 13^ pounds of decoction of Brazil wood, 
 and 54 pounds of decoction of logwood. 
 
 III. Mix 8| pounds of decoction of 
 birch bark, 4V pounds of decoction of 
 willow bark, 4V ounces of infusion of 
 elderberries, and 8 grains of indigo- 
 carmine. 
 
 Brown (Light). I. Mix 13 pounds 
 of decoction of fustic, a like quantity of 
 decoction of fustet, 2 pounds of decoc- 
 tion of Brazil wood, and 1 pound of 
 decoction of logwood. 
 
 II. Mix 8J pounds of decoction of 
 ground willow bark, 4V pounds of de- 
 coction of fustet, 2 pounds of decoction 
 of fustic, and 4 pound of decoction of 
 logwood. 
 
 III. Mix 174 pounds of decoction of 
 fustic, 8| pounds of decoction of Brazil 
 wood, and 44 pounds of decoction of 
 logwood. 
 
 English Gray. Boil willow bark 
 with strong solution of copperas. 
 
 French Green. Dissolve 1 ounce of 
 alum in 1 gallon of water, which fur- 
 nishes the mordant required for dyeing. 
 The dye consists of a solution of 1 
 pound of indigo-carmine in 3 gallons 
 of boiling water, and 10 pounds of strong 
 
LEATHER, TANNING, DYEING, ETC. 
 
 219 
 
 decoction of fustic, and 2 pounds of de- 
 coction of logwood. 
 
 Gray. Mix 17 i pounds of decoction j 
 of willow bark and pound of decoc- 
 tion of logwood. 
 
 Gray-brotrn. Mix 3-5 pounds of de- 
 coction of willow bark, 2 pounds of in- 
 fusion of elderberries, and $ pound of 
 decoction of Brazil wood. 
 
 Gray-green. Mix 13 pounds of de- 
 coction of willow bark, 4 pounds of 
 decoction of fustic, and i pound of de- 
 coction of logwood. 
 
 Gray Stone Color. Mix \7\ pounds 
 of decoction of willow bark and 2 
 pounds of decoction of logwood. 
 
 Green Stone Color. Mix 8? pounds 
 of decoction of willow bark with a like 
 quantity of decoction of fustic and 1 
 pound of decoction of logwood. 
 
 Green. (Light). Mix 17> pounds of 
 decoction of fustic and 2 pounds of de- 
 coction of logwood. 
 
 Green (Dark). Mix 25 pounds of 
 decoction of fustic with a like quantity 
 of decoction of logwood. 
 
 Olive-brown. Mix 10 pounds of de- 
 coction of fustet, 6 pounds of decoction 
 of fustic, 2 pounds of decoction of Brazil 
 wood, and 4 pounds of decoction of log- 
 wood. 
 
 Orange-broivn. Boil 8 ounces of 
 ground fustic and 4 ounce of ground 
 Brazil wood in 14 quarts of water. 
 
 Orange-red. Mix 4 pounds of de- 
 coction of willow bark with a like 
 quantity of decoction of fustet. 
 
 Pensee or Violet-blue. The usual 
 mordant is used with 1 pound of decoc- 
 tion of logwood and i pound of decoc- 
 tion of Brazil wood. 
 
 /Silver-gray. Mix a decoction of 
 weld with some infusion of bilberries. 
 
 Straw Color. Use a more or less con- 
 centrated decoction of weld, according \ 
 to the tint desired. 
 
 Apparatus and Process for Dyeing 
 and Pattern ing A n imal Skins. Woolly- 
 skins to be dyed are hooked with the ! 
 flesh side down upon stretching boards ' 
 a, Fig. 38, provided on the edges with 
 pins, and stretch by tightening the 
 screws s acting upon the levers c. Cop- 
 per paus with a double bottom, between 
 which steam is introduced, receive the 
 dye-bath, which must be somewhat 
 heated and as concentrated as possible. 
 On the inner sides of the pans are ar- 
 
 ranged movable copper knees, upon 
 which the stretching boards are placed 
 
 Fig. 39. 
 
 Fig. 38. 
 
 in such a manner that only the wool of 
 
 the skins is immersed in the bath. The 
 
 dyed skins are rinsed, dried, moistened 
 
 with salt water, and stretched. For 
 
 patterning the skins 
 
 models as represented 
 
 by Fig. 39 are used. 
 
 They are provided 
 
 with a high ledge 
 
 through which runs a 
 
 strap with which they 
 
 are fastened to the 
 
 stretching board and 
 
 pressed against the wool. The models 
 
 protect the wool enclosed in them in 
 
 the dyeing and rinsing process. 
 
 To Dye Rabbit Skins Black. (For 
 IQQ skins.) First Bath: Carbonate of 
 soda 10 pounds. Second Bath : Pure 
 extract of logwood 17 pounds, catechu 
 10 pounds, blue vitriol 2 pounds. Place 
 the skins first in the carbonate of soda 
 solution, rinse them, and then place 
 them for 2 hours in the second bath 
 before the blue vitriol is added. Dur- 
 ing this operation the temperature of 
 the bath should be kept exactly at 85 
 F. The skins are then taken out, cooled 
 off, and replaced in the bath, now heated 
 to 95 F., and this operation, after the 
 blue vitriol has been added, is repeated, 
 increasing the temperature every time 
 10 F. up to 120 F. The skins are 
 then thoroughly rinsed, and will have 
 a beautiful and durable color. 
 
 To Dye Sheepskins Brown. (For 10 
 pounds of skins.) Place the skins over 
 night in water heated from 115 to 140 
 F. and containing sufficient ammonia to 
 make them smell of it. Take them out 
 the next day and wash them. Now ex- 
 haust 2 pounds of logwood by boiling 
 it several times and dilute the liquor 
 to 5 gallons. Place the skins in the 
 
220 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 bath for 3 hours, then take them out 
 and let them drain ofi". Then place 
 them in a bath of wood vinegar of 5 B. 
 for 1 hour, and move them occasionally. 
 Then take them out, rinse, and dye them 
 in a fresh bath heated to 140 F. and 
 containing 1J ounces of Bismarck brown; 
 take them out, let the liquor drain off, 
 rinse, and then dry the skins at a moder- 
 ate heat and rather slowly. It is best 
 to lay the skins flesh side upon a board, 
 as this will prevent shrinking. The 
 skins, when dry, must undergo further 
 treatment to render them soft and plia- 
 ble. For this purpose mix bran to a 
 homogeneous paste with tepid water, 
 and to every 2i gallons add 3i ounces 
 of glycerine of 28 B. This mixture is 
 applied to the skins, and when dry 
 brushed off again. The yelks of 10 
 eggs mixed with li gallons of water and 
 3i ounces of Epsom salts can be substi- 
 tuted for the bran. 
 
 Process of Dyeing naturally White 
 Skins, or Skins with naturally White 
 Points, various Shades of Brown, leav- 
 ing the Points White. To protect the 
 points from the dye cover them with a 
 resist-paste made by mixing with water 
 10 parts of gum -Arabic, 5 of sugar of 
 lead, 10 each of fat white clay and 
 acetate of copper, and carefully dry the 
 skins. 
 
 The fur is now freed from oil and at 
 the same time dyed brown by applying 
 silver litharge, boiled in a solution of 
 caustic lime, diluted to 4 B. and cooled 
 to 75 F., to the skins. The plumbic 
 oxide dissolved in the milk of lime 
 forms with the sulphur contained in 
 the fur an insoluble brown sulphide of 
 lead, whilst the excess of milk of lime 
 frees the fur at the same time from oil. 
 
 To completely convert the excess of 
 plumbic oxide in the mixture and on 
 the fur into sulphide of lead the skins 
 are placed in a revolving drum hermeti- 
 cally closed and treated with very dilute 
 ammonium sulphydrate. They are then 
 brought into a gallic acid bath, and, on 
 neutralizing thisAvith lime, brown color- 
 ing matter is precipitated upon the fur. 
 
 The paste is now removed by careful 
 washing, and the points, having been 
 neither freed from oil nor dyed, will be 
 found perfectly white. By adding to 
 the gallic acid bath small quantities of 
 hyposulphite of silver and nitrate of 
 
 bismuth darker tints can be readily 
 obtained. 
 
 Imitation of Sable Skins. Hamster 
 skins closely resembling sable have re- 
 cently been brought into commerce 
 from England. The process of prepar- 
 ing them is as folloAvs : A mordant pre- 
 pared from 1 part of quicklime and 10 
 of water is applied with a brush to the 
 fur side of the hamster skins and allowed 
 to remain for 12 hours. The skin is then 
 dyed with the following preparation- 
 Pulverize and mix roasted gall-nuts 3 
 pounds, sal-ammoniac 4 ounces, sumach 
 15 ounces, sulphide of antimony 13 
 ounces, verdigris 2 ounces, iron cinders 
 10 ounces, copper ash 4 ounces, and clay 
 10 ounces. Compound the mixture with 
 12 gallons of Avater, stirring constantly. 
 Apply a layer of this to the hamster 
 skins, and after 24 hours place every 
 2 skins Avith the fur side together, let 
 them again lie for 24 hours, and then 
 heat them. Repeat the whole process 
 until the desired color is obtained. The 
 skins are finally cleansed by reA'olving 
 them in a closed cylinder filled Avith 
 sand and mahogany sawdust. 
 
 To Protect Inir af/ainxt the Attacks 
 of Moths. Mix with the liquor used for 
 tanning a mixture ofi part rectified oil 
 of turpentine, i of weak solution of 
 carbonate of soda, and 1 of somewhat 
 concentrated decoction of worniAVood, 
 and proceed as usual. These pro- 
 portions are calculated for 100 small 
 skins. 
 
 For 100 calf or lamb-skins, they being 
 larger, take oil of turpentine 2 pounds, 
 soda-lye 4 pounds, and 8 pounds of 
 wormwood decoction. 
 
 To Tan Linen, Hempen, and Cotton 
 fabrics. Boil 8 ounces of tan in 1 
 gallons of Avater down to li gallons, and 
 pour the liquor Avhile hot upon the 
 fabric to be tanned, and let it remain 
 48 hours. Then take out the fabric, 
 rinse it in cold water, and dry. This 
 quantity suffices for 1 yard. Fabrics 
 thus prepared were kept in a damp 
 cellar for 8 months Avithout injury, 
 Avhilo the same kind of fabrics, but not 
 prepared, AA'ere totally ruined. The 
 process is especially suitable for nets, 
 ropes, cordage, sails, wagon-covers, 
 tents, bags, etc. 
 
 To Give Leather the Smell of Russia 
 Leather. Extract dry birch bark with 
 
LIQUORS AND BEVERAGES. 
 
 221 
 
 alcohol. Distil off the alcohol, pul- 
 verize the remaining resin, mix it with 
 3 parts of calcium hydrate, and distil. 
 The oil passing over soon changes into 
 a resin possessing an aromatic odor like 
 that of Russia leather, and dissolves 
 easily in oils and alcohol. 
 
 LIQUORS AND BEVERAGES: BEER, 
 BRANDY, GIN, WHISKEY, WINES, 
 ETC. 
 
 Beer Brewing. The fabrication of 
 beer is divided into three principal 
 operations: 1. Fabrication of malt. 
 2. Preparation of the liquor containing 
 the dextrine and sugar ; and 3, the fer- 
 menting of this liquor. 
 
 1. Fabrication of Malt requires 3 
 operations : a, Steeping ; 6, Germinat- 
 ing (Couching) ; c, Kiln-drying. 
 
 a. Steeping. The barley is first uni- 
 formly moistened in the steeping- vat, 
 and then covered with water 4 to 6 
 inches deep. The light grains floating 
 on top are removed. During this oper- 
 ation carbonic acid is evolved, the water 
 acquiring a yellowish color, Vhile the 
 barley absorbs water equal to about 
 of its volume, the increase in weight 
 being more than . After 24 hours the 
 water is drawn off and replaced by 
 fresh, this being repeated 3 or 4 times 
 according to the temperature of the 
 air. The operation is finished if the 
 grains can be crushed between the 
 fingers without exuding in the form 
 of a milky juice. In steeping, strict 
 attention must be paid to avoid acid 
 fermentation. 
 
 b. Germinating (Couching}. The 
 water being drawn off the barley is 
 allowed to drain off and laid upon the 
 couch floor of stone flags in heaps 5 to 
 8 inches high, and turned every 5 or 6 
 hours to insure an even temperature 
 and uniform germination. The tem- 
 perature of the heap should never be 
 allowed to rise above 60 F. When 
 germination begins the heap is piled 
 up from 7 to 14 inches high. The tem- 
 perature rises from 77 to 80 F., and the 
 barley commences to sweat, which may 
 be recognized, if, on thrusting the hand 
 into the heap, it not only feels warm 
 but gets bedewed with moisture. The 
 radicles and acrospire begin to develop. 
 
 The latter issues from the same end of 
 the grain as the radicle, but turns over 
 and proceeds within the husk towards 
 the other end, and would there come 
 forth as a green leaf were its progress 
 not arrested. The malting, however, 
 is complete before the acrospire becomes* 
 a leaf. As soon as the radicles and 
 acrospire begin to grow, the barley, to 
 admit air and check too rapid develop- 
 ment, is spread thinner upon the floor, 
 and turned over several times in the 
 course of the day. As soon as the radi- 
 cles have become H longer than the 
 barley, and are contorted so that the 
 grains hook into one another, and the 
 acrospire is just beginning to push 
 through, the barley is spread very thin 
 on the floor, and when it feels no lon- 
 ger moist, brought into the kiln. 
 
 Kiln-drying expels the moisture 
 from the germinated grains and con- 
 verts the starch into dextrine and 
 glucose, and stops the progress of germi- 
 nation and renders the mass fit for 
 storage. The kiln is a chamber with a 
 perforated iron or copper bottom to 
 allow the heated air to permeate 
 through the malt, which is spread upon 
 the bottom about 3 to 4 inches deep. 
 The temperature must not be too high 
 at first, and is gradual ly increased to, but 
 must never rise above, 158 F. During 
 the kiln-drying the roots and acrospire . 
 of the barley become brittle and fall 
 off, and are separated by a wire sieve. 
 The barley, by germinating and kiln- 
 drying, loses 8 per cent, of its weight. 
 
 2. Preparation of the Liquor con- 
 taining the Dextrine and^ Sugar (Mitsh' 
 ing). The object of this operation is 
 to extract from the malt the sugar and 
 dextrine by means of water, and to 
 convert the starch into the same sub- 
 stances by the diastase. The beer, be- 
 sides alcohol, must contain dextrine, and 
 the action of the diastase must therefore 
 be arrested before the dextrine is entirely 
 converted into sugar, this being ac- 
 complished by boiiing the watery solu- 
 tion. The operations necessary for 
 gaining beer from the malt are : a, the 
 actual mashing, or preparation of the 
 wort; b, boiling the wort with hops; 
 and c, cooling the boiled wort. 
 
 a. Mashing. The malt is coarsely 
 ground in a grain-mill and mixed with 
 water in a vat, and after 4 to 6 hours' 
 
222 
 
 TECIINO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 immersion, hot water is added to raise 
 the temperature to 168 F., the vat 
 covered, and the mash allowed to 
 stand for 1 to 2 hours, when the clear 
 wort (wort-black) is drawn off into a 
 covered vessel and the residue washed 
 several times with water. 
 
 b. JBoilihj the Wort with Hops. The 
 clear wort is boiled in the copper to- 
 gether with the hops. The albumen 
 and unchanged starch are precipi- 
 tated by the tannin of the hops, and a 
 bitter taste imparted to the beer and 
 its durability augmented. After boil- 
 ing for several hours the wort, to pre- 
 vent acid fermentation, must be im- 
 mediately cooled. 
 
 c. Cooling. In small breweries the 
 beer is run into coolers, but in larger 
 establishments refrigerators of various 
 constructions are employed. The cooler 
 is a large shallow vessel constructed 
 of planks. It must be so placed that 
 the wort can be cooled as quickly as 
 possible to 60 to 68 F. In bring- 
 ing the wort in the cooler the ex- 
 hausted hops are retained by the hop- 
 strainer. 
 
 d. Fermentation. When the wort is 
 sufficiently cooled it is conveyed into 
 the fermenting vat. Six or 8 hours 
 after the yeast has been added fermen- 
 tation becomes active. The tempera- 
 ture of the fermenting cellar should 
 not rise above 59 F. A thin white 
 froth appears first on the middle, and 
 spreads gradually over the whole sur- 
 face, whose color gradually changes 
 into a yellowish -brown by the action 
 of the air. Fermentation is finished 
 in 5 to 8 days, according to the temper- 
 ature of the cellar. After the beer is 
 clear it is drawn off into barrels in the 
 store-cellar for after-fermentation. 
 
 Improved Process of Brewing. The 
 malt is mashed with water at 140 to 
 158 F. in a vat hermetically closed 
 and provided with a stirring apparatus, 
 double bottom, man-hole, etc., whereby 
 the rnash acquires a temperature of 120 
 F., which is raised to 1(57 F. by intro- 
 ducing steam at 257 F. between the 
 2 bottoms of the mash tun. The clear 
 mash is then forced by steam from the 
 grains into the clear mash-back stand- 
 ing higher than the mash tun. To dis- 
 solve the peptones, etc., the grains are 
 Bteamed and then cooled off to 167 to 
 
 178 F. by squirting cold water over 
 them, and the clear mash is then 
 brought back into the mash tun in 
 order to undergo a second complete 
 saccharization. The mash is then 
 heated to 212 F., and, after resting, 
 forced into the hop-back. 
 
 New Brewing Process. The mash is 
 thoroughly worked for 5 minutes in 
 water at 120 F., and allowed to stand 
 for 10 minutes. The supernatant liquor 
 is then brought into the clarifying tun, 
 and to every 25 gallons are added 1 
 pound of scalded hops and ounce of 
 carbonate of lime. The thick mash re- 
 maining in the copper is first heated to 
 145 F., and then to 170 F., and after 
 saccharization is complete, boiled for 1 
 hour with an addition of 2| ounces of 
 carbonate of lime to every 2000 gallons 
 of mash ; the liquor first drawn off from 
 the thick mash is then added. After 
 standing for i hour the wort is pumped 
 into the pan and boiled for 2 hours. 
 The hops, previously boiled alone for 2 
 hours and cooled off to 190 F., are 
 then added to the mash, cooled to the 
 same temperature. The wort is then 
 pumped *into the cooler, where 2 to 2| 
 ounces of carbonate of lime are added 
 to every 2000 gallons. 
 
 To prevent fermentation and putre- 
 faction of the albumen, i ounce of mag- 
 nesia are added to every quart of the 
 setting yeast. 
 
 Clarifying Beer. A very concen- 
 trated solution of phosphate of soda is 
 first put into the wort, and then gyp- 
 sum or chloride of calcium and slaked 
 lime are added. Instead of the soda 
 salt, phosphoric acid or some soluble 
 phosphate of lime may be employed. 
 This clarifier can be used at any stage 
 of the process, either before or after 
 fermentation. The same process is 
 also recommended for other fermented 
 liquors. 
 
 Flaxseed Pulp for Clarifying Beer. 
 For every 60 gallons of beer boil f pint 
 of washed flaxseed in 1 gallon of water, 
 replacing the water lost by evaporation 
 by fresh. Separate the pulpy liquid 
 from the seeds by straining and add it 
 to the brewing i hour before mixing 
 the hops with it. When the latter is 
 added the flaxseed pulp coagulates, 
 enclosing the substances which make 
 the beer turbid and settling with them 
 
LIQUORS AND BEVERAGES. 
 
 223 
 
 on the bottom of the boiler. Beer pre- 
 pared in this way becomes clear in a 
 very short time, its taste being not in- 
 jnred in any respect. 
 
 Brewer's Pitch. Light Yellow Pitch. 
 Melt in an open iron boiler 100 pounds 
 of pine pitch, and then add, with con- 
 stant stirring, 5 to 6 pounds of caustic 
 soda-lye of 10 B. When the mass in 
 the boiler no longer rises, and the for- 
 mation of bubbles has ceased, the fatty 
 pitch is poured into iron moulds and 
 allowed to cool. 
 
 Brown Pitch. I. Melt in an open 
 iron boiler 150 pounds of pine pitch 
 and 50 pounds of red, transparent Amer- 
 ican rosin ; then add 10 pounds of recti- 
 fied heavy rosin oil, stir thoroughly, 
 and pour into moulds. 
 
 II. Composed of pine pitch 100 
 pounds, red, transparent rosin 85 
 pounds, and rectified heavy rosia oil 
 
 10 pounds. 
 
 III. Seventy-five pounds of pine pitch, 
 140 pounds of red, transparent rosin, 
 and 12 pounds of rectified heavy rosin 
 oil. 
 
 IV. Pine pitch 50 pounds, red, trans- 
 parent rosin 150 pounds, and rectified 
 heavy rosin oil 10 pounds. 
 
 V. Pine pitch 40 pounds, brown rosin 
 160 pounds, and rectified heavy rosin 
 
 011 10 pounds. 
 
 Ordinary Brown Brewer's Pitch. 
 Melt in an open iron boiler pine pitch 
 30 pounds, brown rosin 175 pounds, and 
 rectified heavy rosin oil 10 pounds. 
 
 Hop Pitch. Melt good brewer's pitch 
 for hour with 5 per cent, of hops, 
 pass the mixture through a fine wire 
 cloth, and finally add 0.01 per cent, of 
 oil of hops. This pitch, it is claimed, 
 contributes to make the beer durable 
 and aromatic. 
 
 Glaze for Beer Barrels. Glazing 
 beer barrels, being cheaper and better 
 than pitching, is adopted in many large 
 breweries. For this purpose dissolve 
 \ pound of rosin, i pound of shellac, A 
 pound of turpentine, and & pound of 
 yellow wax in 1 quart of strong spirit 
 of wine, and apply the solution twice to 
 the inside of the barrel by means of a 
 brush. As soon as the second coat is 
 dry, apply one prepared by dissolving 
 1 pound of shellac in 1 quart of strong 
 spirit of wine. This varnish closes the 
 pores, does not break off nor injure the 
 taste of the beer. 
 
 Prof. Artemus recommends to coat 
 the inside of the barrel with a solution 
 of soda water-glass of 1 .25 specific gravity 
 rubbed up with i of 1 per cent, of 
 magnesia. This glaze is very cheap 
 and, as it can only be dissolved by long 
 continued boiling in water, allows of a 
 thorough cleansing of the barrels. 
 
 Testing Beer for Foreign Bitter Sub- 
 stances. Heat about 2 quarts of the 
 beer, to be examined over a water-bath 
 until the largest part of the carbonic 
 acid and about i of the water are evapo- 
 rated. To precipitate the bitter sub- 
 stances derived from the hops, com- 
 pound the fluid, while still hot, with 
 basic acetate of lead as long as a pre- 
 cipitate is formed. The richer the lead 
 salt is in plumbic oxide the more readily 
 will the hop constituents be removed. 
 Filter off the precipitate of lead a* 
 quickly as possible, protecting it at the 
 same time from, the action of atmos- 
 pheric carbonic acid, which would de- 
 compose it. Washing out the precipi- 
 tate is not advisable. The excess of 
 lead added in the filtered fluid is pre- 
 cipitated with the necessary quantity 
 of sulphuric acid ; a quick settling of 
 the sulphate of lead is accomplished by 
 an addition of about 40 drops of a solu- 
 tion of 1 part of gelatine in 20 of water 
 before adding the sulphuric acid. The 
 fluid, after it is again filtered, must, if 
 the beer was unadulterated, have no 
 bitter taste if a few drops of it are 
 placed upon the tongue. 
 
 Now compound the fluid with suffi- 
 cient ammoniacal liquor to neutralize 
 all the sulphuric acid and a part of the 
 acetic acid. Then evaporate it in the 
 water-bath to pint. To precipitate 
 the dextrine, etc., mix the residue with 
 4 parts by volume of absolute alcohol, 
 shake the mixture thoroughly, then 
 place it in the cellar for 24 hours, and 
 finally filter it. After distilling off the 
 largest part of the alcohol, mix the 
 aqueous residue of distillation, now re- 
 acting acid, successively with petroleum- 
 ether, benzole, and chloroform. Then 
 add ammonia to the aqueous fluid until 
 it shows a perceptible alkaline reaction, 
 and then repeat the shaking with the 
 three fluids in the order given. 
 
 Pure Beer prepared from malt and 
 hops shows, if treated in this manner, 
 the following action : 
 
224 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Acid Mixtures. Petroleum-ether.* 
 The solid part obtained by evaporating 
 the residue of the mixture with petro- 
 leum-ether has scarcely any bitter taste, 
 and when dissolved in concentrated 
 sulphuric acidf, in sulphuric acid and 
 sugar, or in nitric acid, gives a very 
 slightly yellowish-colored solution, and 
 in concentrated hydrochloric acid al- 
 most a colorless one. 
 
 Benzole % withdraws only very small 
 quantities of a resinous substance, which 
 acts towards the mentioned acids in a 
 similar manner as that isolated by the 
 petroleum-ether. This substance has 
 also only a slightly bitter taste. 
 
 Chloroform acts similar to benzole. 
 
 Amnioniacal Shakings. $ Petroleum- 
 ether absorbs next to nothing. 
 
 Benzole withdraws only traces of a 
 substance giving no characteristic re- 
 action of color. 
 
 Beer Wort acts in the same manner 
 as fermented beer. 
 
 By the same method the addition to 
 the beer of the following 13 substitutes 
 for hops can be shown. 
 
 1. Wormwood. On shaking the acid 
 fluid with petroleum-ether, ethereal oil 
 is found, which is recognized by its 
 odor and a part of the bitter substance. 
 The residue of evaporation gives a 
 brown solution in concentrated sul- 
 phuric acid, which, on being allowed 
 to stand in the moist air of a room, 
 assumes a violet color.. Compounded 
 with sulphuric acid and a little sugar 
 it acquires gradually a red-violet color. 
 By dissolving a part of the evaporated 
 residue in a little water the filtered 
 solution reduces amnioniacal solution 
 of silver, while precipitates are obtained 
 with chloride of gold and potassium 
 mercuric iodide, but only slight tur- 
 bidity with tannin, potassium bromide, 
 potassium iodide, and mercurious ni- 
 trate. 
 
 Benzole and Chloroform absorb also 
 the bitter substance which reacts as de- 
 scribed above. 
 
 * Should boil between 91 4 and 140 F. 
 
 tThe sulphuric acid should be as tree as 
 possible from nitric acid 
 
 J Benzole boiling at 176 to 177.8 F., and 
 previously rectified, must be used. 
 
 g Before making the fluid alkaline it must be 
 once more mixed with petroleum-ether, in 
 order to remove all traces of chloroform. 
 
 2. Marsh Rosemary (Sedumpalustre). 
 In the extract with petroleum-ether 
 some ethereal oil having the character- 
 istic odor of marsh rosemary is found. 
 The small residue treated with concen- 
 trated sulphuric acid acquires a more 
 brownish color than ordinary beer, but 
 for the rest does not remarkably differ 
 from it. 
 
 Benzole and Chloroform absorb amor- 
 phous substances of a bitter taste, which 
 give dark red-violet solutions with sul- 
 phuric acid and sugar, and, on being 
 boiled in dilute sulphuric acid (1.10), 
 develops an odor of ericinol. The solu- 
 tion reduces chloride of gold and alka- 
 line solution of copper, while a precipi- 
 tate is obtained with potassium iodide 
 and tannin, but not with basic lead 
 acetate. Benzole also absorbs small 
 quantities of a substance which reduces 
 amnioniacal solution of silver. Chloro- 
 form absorbs a substance which is pre- 
 cipitated with potassium -mercuric 
 iodide. 
 
 3. Bog Bean, Marsh Trefoil (Meny- 
 anthes trifoliata}. In the extract with 
 petroleum-ether only traces of the bit- 
 ter substance are found. Benzole and 
 chloroform absorb more of the bitter 
 substance (menyanthin), the taste of 
 which can be detected in the evaporated 
 residue. The latter, on being heated 
 with dilute sulphuric acid (1.10), de- 
 velops also the characteristic odor of 
 mertyanthol, reduces amnioniacal solu- 
 tion of silver, and is precipitated or, at 
 least, made turbid with potassium-mer- 
 curic iodide, potassium iodide, tannin, 
 and chloride of gold. 
 
 Nothing characteristic is found on 
 shaking with amnioniacal liquor. 
 
 4. Quassia. Petroleum-ether absorbs 
 but very small traces of the exceedingly 
 bitter quassiin, which does not differ by 
 any other reaction from substances ob- 
 tained from pure beer. Larger quan- 
 tities of quassiin are isolated by benzole 
 and especially by chloroform. When 
 treated with sulphuric acid arid sugar 
 it acquires a pale reddish color, reduces 
 slightly amnioniacal solution of silver 
 and chloride of gold, and precipitates 
 potassium-mercuric iodide, potassium 
 iodide, tannin, and basic lead acetate. 
 
 5. Colchicum 8eeds. Petroleum-ether 
 yields substances similar to those iso- 
 lated from unadulterated beer. Ben- 
 
LIQUORS AND BEVERAGES. 
 
 225 
 
 tole absorbs small quantities cf colchi- 1 
 cin and colchicein, which taste Ditter j 
 and give a yellow solution with coucen- j 
 trated sulphuric acid, which, oa salt- j 
 petre being added, acquires a violet, 
 blue, and later on a green color. Tne j 
 last reaction of color being also obtained ! 
 with nitric acid of 1.30 specific gravity, j 
 By adding to the solution in nitric acid, 
 when it has ceased to throw up bubbles, \ 
 caustic potash, until a strong alkaline i 
 reaction takes place, a very durable i 
 cherry to dark-red coloring is obtained, j 
 The chloroform residue yields larger j 
 quantities of the above constituents of i 
 the meadow saffron, so that, besides the 
 above-mentioned color reactions, precip- 
 itates are obtained with the alkaloid 
 reagents commonly used. 
 
 6. Indian Berries (Cocculi Indict), 
 Petroleum-ether, and Benzole absorb 
 from the beer adulterated with Persian 
 berries only such constituents as from 
 pure beer. With chloroform and, 
 still easier, with amyl alcohol the picro 
 toxin is withdrawn from the fluid, but, 
 on eyaporating, it remains behind gen- 
 erally in such an impure state that it 
 cannot be directly used for color re- 
 actions. It is therefore best to test 
 whether a part of the residue reduces 
 an alkaline solution of copper, and 
 another part, dissolved in water, has a 
 poisonous effect upon fishes. In this 
 case, re-dissolve the remainder of the 
 residue in warm water, shake again 
 with chloroform, and repeat this until 
 the residue of the chloroform shakings 
 appears crystalline, after having been 
 allowed, to evaporate spontaneously in 
 the ordinary temperature of a room. On 
 re-dissolving the residue in alcohol, and 
 allowing it to evaporate slowly, large j 
 needle-like crystals should remain be- i 
 hind, which give a yellow solution in j 
 concentrated sulphuric acid. By mix- 1 
 ing this solution intimately with 5 to 6 ! 
 parts by weight of pulverized saltpetre, 
 then moistening it with sufficient pure, 
 concentrated sulphuric acid to form a 
 
 Plastic mass, and finally adding soda- 
 ye of 1.3 specific gravity until a strong 
 alkaline reaction takes "place, a brick- 
 red fluid is obtained. 
 
 7. Colocynths. The colocynthin does 
 not pass into petroleum ether and ben- 
 zole, but is shaken out with chloroform. I 
 It is extremely bitter, is precipitated 
 
 15 
 
 from an aqueous solution with tannin, 
 reduces alkaline solution of copper, and 
 dissolved in sulphuric acid gives a red 
 solution, and in Frdhde's reagent* a 
 violet one. But the latter reactions 
 succeed only after the colocynthin has 
 been purified by repeated dissolutions 
 in water and shaking with chloroform. 
 
 8. Willow Bark. The salicin found 
 in the young bark of several species of 
 willow and poplar cannot be well ob- 
 tained from acid extracts with petro- 
 leum-ether, benzole, and chloroform, 
 but easily so with amyl alcohol. On 
 heating the salicin with potassium bi- 
 chromate and dilute sulphuric acid 
 (1.4), it emits the odor of salicylic acid. 
 In concentrated sulphuric acid it gives 
 a red solution, and in Frdhde's reagent 
 a violet-red one ; but both reactions 
 succeed only when the salicin is very 
 pure, which is difficult to obtain even 
 by repeated dissolutions in water and 
 shaking the filtered solutions with 
 amyl alcohol. 
 
 9. Strychnine cannot be gained from 
 the acid solution, but only from the 
 ammoniacal fluid, and then only in 
 small quantities with petroleum-ether, 
 and somewhat less difficult with ben- 
 zole and chloroform. To establish the 
 alkaloid it is best to use its well-known 
 reaction upon sulphuric acid and po- 
 tassium bichromate. 
 
 10. Atropin and 
 
 11. Hyoscyamin are also obtained by 
 shaking the ammoniacal solution witn 
 benzole and chloroform. They are pre- 
 cipitated with most reagents upon alka- 
 loids, but, as good color reactions are 
 wanting, must be confirmed by physio- 
 logical tests. 
 
 The process is modified for proving. 
 
 12. Aloes. By treating the beer, in 
 preparing it for "the test, only with neu- 
 tral lead acetate, and shaking it later 
 on with amyl alcohol. After evapo- 
 ration a residue with the characteristic 
 taste of aloes must remain, and which 
 yields precipitates with potassium bro- 
 mide, basic lead acetate, and mercurious 
 nitrate, and, being heated, reduces alka- 
 line solution of copper and solution of 
 gold. Tannin must also precipitate it, 
 
 *0.15 grains of sodium molybdate dissolved 
 in 40 drops of pure concentrated sulphuric 
 acid. 
 
226 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 but, on being added in excess, partly 
 redissolves the precipitate. By boiling 
 a part of the residue with concentrated 
 nitric acid, and expelling the latter 
 over a water-bath, a mass remains 
 which, on being heated with caustic 
 potash and potassium cyanide, acquires 
 a blood-red color. 
 
 13. Gentian Root. The beer is also 
 prepared for this test by treating it with 
 neutral lead acetate, filtering and re- 
 moving the excess of lead, with just the 
 necessary quantity of sulphuric acid. 
 The fluid is then evaporated to the con- 
 sistency of syrup, and this acidulated 
 with nitric acid, and then subjected to 
 the process of dialysis. The neutral- 
 ized dialysate is again precipitated with 
 neutral lead acetate, then filtered, and 
 the filtrate compounded with basic lead 
 acetate, whereby the bitter principle of 
 gentian root (gentianin) is precipi- 
 tated. The precipitate, after filtering 
 and washing, is decomposed with sul- 
 phide of hydrogen, and the filtered fluid 
 shaken with benzole or chloroform. By 
 adding ferric chloride to an aqueous 
 solution of gentianin it will be colored 
 brown, but is not precipitated by it. 
 Gentianin reduces ammoniacal solu- 
 tion of silver and alkaline solution of 
 copper. It is precipitated with potas- 
 sium bromide and mercurious nitrate, 
 chloride of gold, and phosphomolybdic 
 acid, while corrosive sublimate and 
 potassium-mercuric iodide cause tur- 
 bidity. 
 
 Determination of Glycerine in Beer. 
 For Dark Beers. Evaporate carefully 
 in a water-bath, at about 165 F., 6 
 fluid ounces of beer and li drachms 
 of magnesium hydrate. Rub the resi- 
 due before it is entirely dry with 3 
 fluid ounces of absolute alcohol, then 
 filter off the alcohol and wash the 
 residue with 3 fluid ounces' of alcohol. 
 Then compound the filtrate with 3 
 times its volume of absolute ether in 
 order to separate the maltose and para- 
 pepton, and then allow the filtrate to 
 stand for 12 hours for the volatilization 
 of the ether. Place the remaining al- 
 coholic solution in a flask previously 
 weighed, evaporate it to a syrup on the 
 water-bath, and dry it in a rarefied 
 space for 12 to 24 hours. Extract the 
 residue with about 1 fluid ounce of 
 absolute alcohol, free the fluid by fil- 
 
 tering from the separated cholesterin, 
 malt fat, etc., wash it with i fluid ounce 
 of absolute alcohol, and evaporate the 
 filtrate over the water-bath, then dry it 
 under the air-pump and weigh it as 
 glycerine. 
 
 For Light Beers, poor in peptones, 
 take up the mass thickened with mag- 
 nesium hydrate with absolute alcohol, 
 filter, evaporate the filtrate to a syrup, 
 dry it under the air-pump, add a mixt- 
 ure of 1 part of absolute alcohol and 1 
 part of ether, stir vigorously with a 
 glass rod, filter through a very small 
 filter, wash with the same mixture, 
 evaporate carefully, and finish the proc- 
 ess under the air-pump. 
 
 Alcohol and Compressed Yeast from 
 uncrushed Cereals ivithmit the Use of 
 Steam Pressure. Acidulate 50 gallons 
 of water with 2 ounces of pure sul- 
 phuric acid of 66 per cent., and in it 
 soak 20 pounds of the cereals without 
 being crushed, at a temperature of about 
 104 F. After soaking for 48 to CO 
 hours the material is brought together 
 with the water into the preparatory 
 mashing tun, which is provided with a 
 mashing machine, and saccharization 
 takes place at 140 F. 
 
 To Convert Alcohol of 70 per cent, 
 into 90 per cent, in the Cold Way. Mix 
 calcined potash with alcohol of 70 per 
 cent, until the phlegm, when shaken, 
 shows 80 per cent. ; then pour the al- 
 cohol carefully into another vessel, and 
 add potash until it shows 90 per cent. 
 Then pour it into a third vessel, and to 
 cleanse it, which will require about 1 
 hour, add some more potash, and gome 
 burnt alum. The potash before using 
 it, must be pulverized, sifted, and cal- 
 cined in an iron vessel. 
 
 To Purify Alcohol obtained from 
 Beets and Molasses. The alcohol is 
 brought into a vessel of galvanized 
 iron or enamelled wrought iron. For 
 every 20 gallons of alcohol of about 90 
 per cent., 2 to 2i ounces of caustic 
 potash are added. The mixture is 
 allowed to stand quietly for about 1 
 hour, when it is thoroughly stirred and 
 the agitation repeated every 12 hours 
 during the first 24 hours. Afjter stand- 
 ing quietly for 12 hours, 10 per cent, 
 of water is added, and the agitation 
 repeated every 12 hours during the 
 next 36 hours. It is then allowed to 
 
LIQUORS AND BEVERAGES. 
 
 227 
 
 rest for 24 hours, and filtered through 
 a layer of asbestos. The potash is next 
 neutralized with tartaric acid. After 
 stirring it and then resting for 12 hours 
 about 2 gallons of water are added to 
 every 20 gallons of alcohol. The liquid 
 is again allowed to rest for 12 hours, 
 and filtered before rectifying. 
 
 To Purify Alcohol. The process 
 consists in adding a small quantity of 
 nitrate of silver to the crude alcohol, 
 I to 1J ounces being required for 2000 
 gallons of crude alcohol, according to 
 quality and strength. For practical 
 use it is best to prepare a solution of 10 
 parts of nitrate of silver in 100 of water. 
 After the alcohol has been mixed with 
 the solution it is converted into high- 
 proof spirits. Rectified spirit produced 
 by this process is destitute of all bad odors 
 to a degree not otherwise attainable. 
 The invention is available with equal 
 success for any kind of spirit of wine ; 
 an addition of but 7 grains of nitrate 
 of silver to 100 gallons of spirit of wine 
 being sufficient to remove the bad odors 
 from the poorest quality coming into 
 commerce. For practical use it is best 
 in these cases also to prepare solutions 
 of nitrate of silver in water, namely, 
 for the first, 1 part of nitrate of silver to 
 100 of water, and for the last, 1 part of 
 nitrate of silver to 1000 of water. 
 
 To Prepare Absolute Alcohol. The 
 easiest way of accomplishing this is to 
 pour strong alcohol over anhydrous sul- 
 phate of copper, and agitate as long as 
 the salt is colored blue, and then distil 
 the fluid. 
 
 Manufacture of Cognac. The pro- 
 cess in the Cognac district is as follows : 
 The wine to be distilled is first brought 
 into a stone trough, and is then pumped 
 into a bronze boiler called the "chauffe- 
 vin," whence it can flow into a still. 
 In the chauffe-vin and in the retort the 
 wine is heated by a coal fire, at first 
 strongly and then gradually weak. 
 After a short time a white, generally 
 transparent, liquor called " broulKs, 
 which should amount to about i of the 
 quantity of wine brought into the 
 chauffe-vin, begins to run from the 
 mouth of the cooling-pipe. The brown 
 fluid, containing but very little alcohol, 
 which remains in the reto"t is emptied 
 and thrown away. Fresh wine is then 
 conveyed into the ehauiFe-vin, and the 
 
 distillation commences anew, and is 
 continued day and night until all the 
 wine has been converted into spirits, 
 which is finally rectified. 
 
 A rtificial Cognac. The following 
 compound, after storing for some time, 
 will closely resemble the genuine arti- 
 cle in taste and aroma : I. Mix 10 ounces 
 of acetic acid, 7 ounces of spirit its 
 nitricocethereus, If gallons of white 
 French wine, f pint of tincture of oak 
 bark (extracted from 4 ounces of oak 
 bark), and 30 gallons of spirit of wine 
 of 55 to 60 per cent., and the requisite 
 quantity of sugar color. 
 
 II. Artificial Cognac of a very Jin e 
 favor is obtained by mixing 2400 parts 
 of alcohol of 90 per cent., 1600 of water, 
 8 of spiritus nitricocethereus, 6 of aro- 
 matic tincture, 1 of acetic ether, and 2 
 of tannin. The mixture, after standing 
 for some time, is filtered, and should 
 have a specific gravity of 0.917 to 
 0.920. 
 
 Dutch Method of Distilling and 
 Manufacture of Co mpt ( , w/ ' (Dry} 
 Yeast. At Schiedam, Jtoticrdam. and 
 Dclfshaien are 300 to 400 distilleries 
 and manufacturers of compressed yeast. 
 The arrangement of all the distilleries 
 is nearly the same. The stills and re- 
 frigerator stand on 1 side, and on the 
 other 2 rows of vats, 6 in each row. 
 Some of the vats are covered ; on lift- 
 ing the cover of one in which the mash 
 has ceased fermenting, a thin, mouldy 
 coat will be found on the surface ; by 
 tasting the mash and dipping the finger 
 a few inches into it, no particles of 
 crushed malt will be detected. 
 
 The capacity of the vats is nearly the 
 same in all distilleries, and 3 to 4 "men 
 are employed in^?ach. Work in all dis- 
 tilleries commences at 4 o'clock in the 
 morning aud'eeases at 5 o'clock in the 
 afternoon. The Dutch method of dis- 
 tilling requires comparatively little 
 labor, which is generally done by hand, 
 steam-engines being seldom used, and 
 then only for pumping water. The 
 greatest cleanliness prevails in the dis- 
 tillery; the walls, brickwork ofthestills, 
 etc., being frequently painted, so as to 
 give them always anew appearance. 
 
 1. The mash is brought into fermen- 
 tation with compressed yeast. 
 
 2. Considerable of the mash of former 
 distilling is utilized. 
 
223 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 3. No sulphuric acid is used. The 
 mash is distilled, a, into low wine, and, 
 6, by repeated distilling of the low 
 wine into gin (the receipt for which 
 will be given later on). 
 
 In Schiedam, 4 vats, each having a 
 capacity of about 500 gallons, are 
 usually mashed every day with 250 
 pounds of crushed rye and 150 pounds 
 of crushed malt ; a total of 400 pounds 
 of groats. 
 
 Mas/iiny. At 4 o'clock in the morn- 
 ing water is boiled in 1 of the stills. 
 The groats having been poured into the 
 mashing vat, the mashing water, con- 
 sisting of 7 kannen* of cold and 21 
 kanhen of warm water, is carried into 
 the vat by 3 workmen, while the fore- 
 man manipulates with a kind of mash- 
 ing scoop. When the mashing is 
 finished, each vat contains about 175 
 gallons. A thermometer is seldom used 
 for determining the temperature of the 
 mash. The mash is allowed to stand 
 quietly for saccharization for H to 2 
 hours. 
 
 Setting (Anstelleri). About 7 o'clock 
 A. M. 230 gallons of wash are put into 
 the fermenting vat, next yeast, and 
 finally 40 gallons of cooling water, its 
 temperature depending on that of the 
 wash, leaving 4 inches (37 gallons) for 
 rising space. Recapitulation of quan- 
 tity of mash : One hundred and seventy- 
 five gal Ions of mash, 2.'50 gallons of wash, 
 40 gallons of water, 37 gallons of rising 
 space; 482 gallons. 
 
 It will be seen from the foregoing 
 how little labor is actually required, as 
 only one man mashes lightly by haiid, 
 and cooling apparatuses being super- 
 fluous, as sufficient cold water and wash 
 are added to the mash. 
 
 The mash, after having been set at 9 
 o'clock A. M. at 81.5 F., is allowed to 
 ferment until 12 o'clock, during which 
 time a thin white coating of "froth is 
 formed on the surface. 
 
 The wort from the mash in the 4 tuns 
 is then pumped into a wort-back re- 
 sembling a square wooden cooler, and 
 standing on an elevation in the fer- 
 menting room. In place of a perforated 
 bottom to separate the grains from the 
 
 * Onekanne = 4.4 gallons ; 28 kannen being 
 used. The total quantity of water in each tun 
 is about 125 gallons. (W. T. B.) 
 
 wort, the Dutch distillers use a silghtly 
 serpentine copper siphon about 30 inches 
 long. 4 inches wide on the top. In one 
 of the staves of the vat, about 10 inches 
 above the bottom, which has a fall 
 forward of about 1 inch, is a hole closed 
 with a cork. This latter is removed by 
 pushing the lower pointed end of the 
 copper siphon through the hole from 
 the inside of the vat, allowing it to pro- 
 ject about | inch. To the upper end 
 of the siphon is fastened a strap, which 
 is drawn over the edge of the vat by a 
 stone. The stone is as heavy as the 
 
 | copper tube full of thin mash. By 
 raising the stone somewhat, the upper 
 end of the copper siphon sinks down, 
 
 | sucks in the thin mash, and carries it 
 through the lower end projecting 
 through the hole in the vat, into a col- 
 lecting back. When all the thin mash 
 down to the exhaust has run oft', the 
 stone is raised up a little more and the 
 
 ; operation repeated. All the wort is 
 drawn off from the mash in this man- 
 ner, that of the four vats running at the 
 same time through a gutter into a col- 
 lecting back, and is from here pumped 
 into the above-mentioned wort-back. 
 Thefrolh (scum) formed from the time of 
 setting (anstellen) to drawing off of the 
 wort (9 to 12 o'clock) is prevented from 
 entering the siphon with the thin wort, 
 by placing a lath across the surface of 
 the wort. When the principal part of 
 the wort has been drawn off, water is 
 poured upon the mash remaining in the 
 vat and thoroughly mixed with it. It 
 is allowed to stand quietly for 2 or 3 
 hours, when the heavier particles of the 
 grains will have settled on the bottom, 
 and the operation of drawing off the 
 wort is repeated. About 160 gallons 
 of sediment, i e. thick mash, remain in 
 the vat after all the wort has been 
 drawn off. The wort stands about 4 
 inches deep in the wort-back, which 
 has a total height of about 12 inches; 
 it remains here until the next morning, 
 when the yeast is ripe. 
 
 The formation of yeast is as follows : 
 The yeast separates not as a high froth, 
 
 I but as a brownish mass resembling the 
 
 | formation of cream upon milk. Dark 
 places are frequently observed upon the 
 surface of the wort, but generally it is 
 of a light-brown color; the lighter the 
 color the better is the fermentation, 
 
LIQUORS AND BEVERAGES. 
 
 229 
 
 and also the yeast. When the yeast is 
 ripe the wort is brought back into the 
 respective fermenting tuns. As there 
 is also a sediment of yeast on the bot- 
 tom, in order to retain this a ring is 
 
 placed around the tap-hole, the top 
 
 k by a lath pla 
 across the surface of the wort. When 
 
 yeast being held back by a lath placed 
 
 all the wort has run off a hose is tied to 
 the tap-hole and a workman sweeps the 
 ripe yeast into the precipitating vessels. 
 These are circular in form arid about 
 15J inches high. The yeast, after re- 
 maining here for 3 to 4 hours, can be 
 pressed without much difficulty, al- 
 though only very little water, and that 
 but once, and no starch has been added 
 to precipitate it. 
 
 For pressing the yeast a canvas bag 
 is put inside a stout press bag, and this 
 into another press bag. The yeast is 
 poured into this triple bag, the canvas 
 bag containing the grains being finally 
 lifted out. How much easier the Dutch 
 distiller removes by this process the 
 particles of groats from the yeast, than 
 by washing and sifting it, as is cus- 
 tomary in the distilleries of other coun- 
 tries. To press the yeast uniformly 
 dry the press bag is not tied, but the 
 bags, which are square, are placed one 
 on the top of the other, the open end 
 of the bag being bent upwards and 
 secured between the bag itself and that 
 lying on the top of it, a piece of linen 
 being, for further security, laid around 
 the open end of the bag. As 6 press 
 bags are laid on top of each other, con- 
 siderable yeast can be quickly pressed 
 dry with one press. 
 
 The setting (stell) yeast, preserved 
 in a fluid state, is compounded with hop 
 water. One gallon of hops is distilled 
 off, and the extract used for preserving 
 the yeast required for 16 washings. 
 
 Clarifying the Wash. The wash 
 runs directly from the still into a brick 
 pit,. and clarifies here while still warm, 
 there being but a small opening in the 
 cover of the pit for carrying off the 
 vapors. About 3 of the clarified wash is 
 pumped the next morning into a cooler 
 lined with copper, and used the third 
 day for cooling off the mash. As soon 
 as the wash has been drawn off into the 
 respective fermenting tuns the cooler is 
 at once cleansed and the wash to be 
 used the next day pumped up. 
 
 Receipt for Holland Gin. For a dis- 
 tillate of 12 mashings about 20 gallons 
 of juniper berries are used ; for the 
 finest qualities of gin some licorice root 
 and sugar are added in rectifying. 
 
 The fine flavor is imparted to the gin 
 by the proportion of malt to the crushed 
 rye, and the finished liquor being recti- 
 fied three times. In a few distilleries 
 20 gallons of barley are used in place 
 of the same quantity of rye. 
 
 Rum (Fagon Rum). Prepare first a 
 so-called rum body by pulverizing 10 
 pounds of catechu, placing the powder 
 in a wide-necked bottle, pouring If gal- 
 lons of alcohol of 96 per cent, over it, 
 and letting the mixture stand for 8 days, 
 stirring it frequently until the super- 
 natant alcohol has acquired a dark- 
 brown color, while the sediment has 
 become light brown. Then pour the 
 clear fluid into a demijohn. On the 
 other hand, boil 45 pounds of St. John's 
 bread, as fresh as possi ble, and 10 pounds 
 of large raisins with 4i gallons of water 
 for about 25 minutes and press out the 
 liquor. Mix this with U gallons of 
 alcohol, pour it into the demijohn, stir 
 thoroughly and allow the whole to set- 
 tle. Take 1J to 3 quarts of this rum 
 body to every 130 gallons of alcohol, 
 and flavor the mixture with H to 1J 
 pounds of Kingston rum essence to 
 every 20 gallons. 
 
 To Destroy Fusel Oil (Amy I Alcohol). 
 Every distillate, be it from grain or 
 potato mash, contains more or less fusel 
 oil, which, by its disagreeable odor and 
 taste, injures the flavor of the liquor, 
 and, in preparing cordials, liqueurs, 
 etc., destroys the effect of the aromatic 
 admixtures. The best means hitherto 
 discovered of depriving liquors of fusel 
 oil is to pass them through coarsely- 
 pulverized charcoal, distributed as fol- 
 lows in a series of casks. Each vessel 
 must have a double bottom, the false 
 one being perforated and placed a few 
 inches above the true. Upon this per- 
 forated board a layer of chopped, lixivi- 
 ated straw to 1 inch thick is laid, 
 and over the straw a stratum of frne 
 gravel the size of large peas. This is 
 covered with a pretty thick stratum of 
 the charcoal, previously freed from dirt 
 and dust by washing ; upon this is 
 spread a piece of close canvas, and 
 pressed down by a thin bed of river 
 
230 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 sand. The cylinder or cask should be I WINES. Bordeaux. It is besi to 
 filled with these successive layers to use a light Hungarian red wine. Mix 
 within 2 inches of its top, and is then I with 50 gallons 1 pint of kino, 2 
 closed air-tight. Immediately below to 3 ounces of sulphate of iron dissolved 
 
 the head a hole is bored in the side for 
 receiving an overflow tube, which is 
 either screwed rectangularly to another 
 
 in 1 quart of boiling water, and 1 wine- 
 glassful of extract of orris root and a 
 like quantity of raspberry extract. 
 
 Mix in a barrel 100 
 
 eibow pipe or is bent so as to enter tight Burgundy. 
 into a hole beneath the false bottom parts of white wine, 10 of the juice of 
 of the second cylinder or cask. In this j black cherries, 6 of crushed large rai- 
 way the series may be continued to any 
 desired number of vessels ; the last dis- 
 charging the purified spirit into the 
 store-barrel. The foul alcohol must be 
 made to flow into the bottom space of 
 the first cylinder down through a pipe 
 
 in communication with a charging ves 
 sel, placed upon such an elevation as 
 to give sufficient pressure to force the 
 spirits up through the series of filters, 
 the supply pipe being provided with a 
 regulating stop cock. 
 
 To Purify Alcohol and Liquors. 
 Cover 10 pounds of animal charcoal 
 with a few inches of water, add 1J 
 ounces of concentrated sulphuric acid, 
 agitate the mixture thoroughly, and 
 let it stand over night. Draw off the 
 water the next day, and wash the mixt- 
 ure with fresh water until the latter 
 has no longer an acid taste and does 
 not redden litmus paper. The drained- 
 off charcoal is then placed upon the 
 perforated bottom of the filtering ap- 
 paratus, covered with a layer of lixivi- 
 ated straw | to 1 inch thick. Upon 
 this is placed another perforated bot- 
 tom, and upon this a mixture of 1 
 pound of magnesia, 20 pounds of wood 
 charcoal, and 5i pounds of pyrolusite. 
 This is also covered with a layer of 
 lixiviated straw and a finely-perforated 
 plate upon which comes a thick layer 
 of river sand previously washed and 
 dried. The liquor to be purified is 
 then compounded with J ounce of spirit 
 of ammonia to every 20 gallons. The 
 liquor is allowed to remain quietly for 
 a few days and is then gradually passed 
 into the filter, where it remains for 3 
 days, when the purified liquor is drawn 
 off and the filter replenished. This 
 apparatus may be used for an entire 
 year without renewing the filtering 
 material. 
 
 To Remove the Taste of the Barrel 
 from Whiskey, add a little good olive 
 oil to it. 
 
 sins, 6 of pulverized cinnamon, ^ of 
 pulverized crude tartar, and 50 of must 
 concentrated by evaporation; allow 
 the mixture to ferment in a cool place, 
 and then rack the wine into another 
 barrel. 
 
 Champagne. The following process 
 
 of manufacture is observed in cham- 
 pagne: Late in the fall the must of 
 different grapes is brought and poured 
 in large vats. In December, before 
 fermentation is entirely completed, the 
 wine is clarified with isinglass and 
 racked into well-stoppered bottles. The 
 bottles are then laid on their sides with 
 their mouths sloping downwards at an 
 angle of about 20 degrees, in order that 
 any sediment may fall in the neck. 
 At the end of a few days the inclination 
 of the bottles is increased, and the 
 slimy substances collected over the cork 
 are from time to time dexterously 
 discharged by a skilled workman open- 
 ing the bottles. Every time the bot- 
 tles are opened, 1 teaspoonful of rock- 
 candy is added to each bottle. When 
 no more sediment is collected in 
 the neck, the bottles are corked with 
 long corks by special machines, and 
 wired. 
 
 Artificial Champagnes. Champagne 
 Liqueur. Boil 8| pounds of the finest 
 loaf sugar with 1 gallon of water, add 
 gradually while the water is boiling i 
 gallon of alcohol of 90 per cent., and 
 then filter the mixture. 
 
 The above liqueur is added to all the 
 following compounds. 
 
 Chandon et Moet (Green Seal}. Mix 
 the above liqueur with 7i gallons of 
 white wine and 1 quart of cognac. 
 
 Louis Roderer (Green and Bronze 
 Seal). Mix the champagne liqueur with 
 7i gallons of white wine, 1 bottle of 
 cognac, and 4 drops of sulphuric ether 
 dissolved in cognac. 
 
 Heidesick et Cie. (Sealed with Tin* 
 /oil). Mix the champagne liqueur 
 
LUBRICANTS FOR MACHINES, WAGONS, ETC. 
 
 231 
 
 with 74 gallons of white wine and 
 pint of cognac, 
 
 Lemberg Geldermann ft Deittz 
 (Sealed with Tinfoil). Mix double the 
 quantity of champagne liqueur with 74 
 gallons of white wine and I pint of 
 cognac, in which 2 roots of celery, 
 carefully cleansed, have been previ- 
 ously digested for 4 hours. 
 
 Schneider ( Yellowish green Seal). 
 Mix the champagne liqueur with 74 
 gallons of wine, 1 bottle of cognac, and 
 3 drops of strawberry essence. 
 
 Fleuer de Sillery (Sealed with Tin- 
 foil). Mix the champagne liqueur 
 with 7 gallons of white wine and 1 
 bottle of cognac, in which 4 roots of 
 celery have been previously digested 
 for 8 hours. 
 
 Jacquesson et Flls (Sealed with Tin- 
 foil). Mix the champagne liqueur 
 with 74 gallons of white wine and 1J 
 pints of cognac. 
 
 The bottles are corked with cham- 
 pagne corks and laid on their sides 
 with their mouths sloping downward. 
 They are recorked the next day 
 with the corking machine. The corks, 
 before using them, must be laid in 
 hot water, and before placing them 
 in the machine, moistened with sugar 
 syrup, and as soon as driven into 
 the bottles tied with cord, and finally 
 wired. 
 
 Madeira. Digest at a moderate heat 
 10 ounces of purified honey, 13 ounces 
 of the strongest spirit of wine, 4 ounce 
 of hop tops, and 3 quarts of French 
 wine, then add 4 ounce of tincture of 
 burned sugar, and filter the wine into 
 bottles. 
 
 Malaga. Put 15 gallons of white 
 calabre (white-wine must boiled down 
 to 4 of its volume), 7 gallons of red 
 calnbre (red-wine must boiled down to 
 i of its volume), 2 gallons of spirit of 
 wine, and 1 wineglassful of essence 
 de Goudron dissolved in spirit of wine 
 in a barrel ; fill the barrel full with 
 light white wine and let it remain in 
 a warm room about 4 to 6 weeks. 
 Then color the wine with sugar color, 
 but not too brown, and finally clear it 
 with isinglass. 
 
 The essence de Goudron is prepared 
 by allowing 1 pound of Swedish wood 
 tar to stand for a few weeks with If 
 pints of spirit of wine, shaking it fre- 
 
 quently, and finally drawing off the 
 supernatant liquor. 
 
 Port Wine. Compound 100 gallons 
 of old red wine with 10 to 15 per cent, 
 of pure honey r and let the mixture 
 ferment slowly in a warm room. When 
 the sweet taste has almost disappeared, 
 add 4J gallons of spirit of wine pre- 
 viously mixed with 2 quarts of kino. 
 Should the wine not be dark enough, 
 add some heavy red wine, or color with 
 mallow blossoms. 
 
 To Improve Wine Mmt. Pulverize 
 pure common salt, calcine it in a pan, 
 and distribute it in the barrels in the 
 proportion of i ounce of salt to 15 
 gallons of must. 
 
 A Remedy for Ropiness or Viscidity 
 of Wines is the bruised berries of the 
 mountain ash in a somewhat unripe 
 state, of which 1 pound, well stirred in, 
 is sufficient for a barrel. After agita- 
 tion the wine is left at rest for a day or 
 two, and then racked off into another 
 barrel, and finally cleared and bottled. 
 
 To Remove, the Taste of the Barrel 
 from Wine is best accomplished by 
 agitating the wine for some time with a 
 spoonful of olive oil. An essential oil, 
 the chief cause of the bad taste, com- 
 bines with the fixed oil and rises with, 
 it to the surface. 
 
 LUBRICANTS FOR MACHINES, WAG- 
 ONS, ETC. 
 
 Adhesive Grease for Machine Brits. 
 Lubricate the belts with castor-oil to 
 which 10 per cent, of tallow has been 
 added. This will make them flexible 
 and augment their friction on the pul- 
 leys. 
 
 Grease for Water-proofing Leather. 
 Twenty-four parts of oleic acid, 6 of 
 crude stearic acid, 18 of ammoniacal 
 soap, 3 of extract of tannin, and 24 of 
 water. Melt the oleic acid together 
 with the stearic acid, then add gradu- 
 ally the ammoniacal soap, the extract 
 of tannin, and finally the water. The 
 ammoniacal soap is obtained by adding 
 to heated oleic acid, caustic ammonia 
 until, after continued stirring, the odor 
 of ammonia remains apparent and the 
 whole congeals to a jelly-like ninss. 
 By adding a solution of 2 parts of sul- 
 phate of iron in 6 of water the grease 
 
232 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 will assume a deep-black color, and is 
 then very suitable for treating boots 
 and shoes. 
 
 To Make Kid Leather Soft the fol- 
 lowing ointment has been recom- 
 mended : Wax 30 parts, asphaltum 10, 
 linseed oil 100, oil of turpentine 50, 
 and olive oil 100. The wax and as- 
 phaltum are dissolved in the oil of 
 turpentine with the aid of heat; the 
 linseed oil and olhe oil are mixed, 
 heated, and added to the solution, and 
 the mixture made homogeneous by 
 stirring. 
 
 Lubricant for Industrial Purposes. 
 Melt together 130 pounds of castor-oil, 
 20 pounds of animal fat, and 40 pounds 
 of vegetable oil, as cotton oil, rape-seed 
 oil, etc., then add 40 pounds of Indian 
 meal, and let the whole boil for 30 
 minutes. 
 
 A Pulverulent Lubricant for axles, 
 shafts, etc., is prepared by intimately 
 mixing graphite with the white or yelk 
 of eggs, rubbing the mixture fine after 
 drying, and dusting the powder upon 
 the parts of the machine while slowly 
 revolving. 
 
 Doulon's Caoutchouc Lubricant. 
 Two hundred parts of train oil are 
 melted in a boiler until it commences 
 to bubble and emits a peculiarly dis- 
 agreeable odor; 20 parts of caout- 
 chouc cut up in small pieces are then 
 gradually added, stirring the mixture 
 vigorously after every addition of 
 caoutchouc. 
 
 Patent Wagon Grease from Rosin -oil 
 Soap. Stir 90 pounds of powdered 
 slaked lime into 100 pounds of rosin 
 oil. Heat the mixture, constantly stir- 
 ring it until a uniform paste of the con- 
 sistency of syrup is obtained. This 
 rosin-oil compound is a component of 
 all the patent wagon grease. 
 
 Blue Pte)>t. Grease. Five hundred 
 and fifty pounds of crude rosin oil are 
 heated for 1 hour with 2 pounds of cal- 
 cium hydrate and allowed to cool. The 
 oil is skimmed off, and 10 to 12 pounds 
 pf rosin-oil soap are stirred in until all 
 is of a buttery consistency and of blue 
 color. 
 
 Yellow Patent Grease is prepared by 
 adding 6 per cent, of solution of tur- 
 meric to the blue grease. The solution 
 is obtained by boiling 1 part of tur- 
 meric with 20 of caustic lye. 
 
 Black Patent Grease is produced by 
 adding lampblack rubbed with rosiu 
 oil in the proportion of 2 pounds to 100 
 pounds of the blue grease. 
 
 Patent Palm Oil Wagon Grease. 
 Ten pounds of rosin -oil soap are melted 
 with a like quantity of palm oil; 
 550 pounds of rosin-oil are then added, 
 and as much rosin-oil soap to give 
 the whole the consistency of butter, 
 and finally 71 to 10 pounds of caustic 
 soda-lye. 
 
 Lubricant from Parciffine Residues. 
 The thick sediment deposited in the 
 manufacture of paraffine is used as a 
 lubricant on account of its cheapness 
 and longer retention of its fluidity in 
 the cold. It is thickened by being 
 mixed with lead soap. Mixtures of 
 rosin-oil or rosin-oil soap and petroleum, 
 with glycerine also, are often used as 
 lubricants. 
 
 Consistent Machine Oil. The boiler 
 used for manufacturing consistent ma- 
 chine oil should have a capacity of 
 | twice the quantity of ingredients to be 
 I boiled in it. Ten pounds of tallow are 
 j melted in 20 pounds of rape-seed oil in 
 I a capacious boiler over a moderate fire, 
 ; and 10 pounds of lime after being slaked 
 ; in 5 gallons of water poured in. In- 
 crease the fire sufficient to boil the mass 
 until a scum arises to the surface, con- 
 stantly stirring to prevent burning, 
 then add 70 pounds of rape-seed oil, in 
 10 pound portions at a time, and con- 
 tinue the boiling over a moderate fire 
 until a homogeneous mass is produced, 
 samples of which should be constantly 
 taken and tested. 
 
 When the sample is cool enough 
 touch it with the finger, and if a long 
 thread can be drawn it has acquired 
 the proper consistency. Too much con- 
 densation by boiling renders the mass 
 insoluble in paraffine oil and worthless. 
 W'hen at a proper consistency, stir in 
 gradually 100 pounds of heavy yellow 
 paraffine oil, and, when the heat has 
 sufficiently subsided, which is tested by 
 dropping a few drops of water into the 
 boiler, add 25 to 30 per cent, of water. 
 Increase the heat and boil gently. The 
 fire should be so arranged that it can be 
 reduced on the instant, and a ready sup- 
 ply of cold water kept on hand to check 
 excess of ebullition. Five hundred 
 pounds of paraffine oil are added in 
 
LUBRICANTS FOR MACHINES, WAGONS, ETC. 
 
 233 
 
 portions small enough not to interrupt 
 the boiling, and after the prior portion 
 has been amalgamated. The quantity 
 of paraffine oil may be increased to 800 
 or 900 pounds. After amalgamation 
 of all the paraffine oil allow the boiler 
 to cool, and remove the grease, while 
 still warm, into an agitator, and stir 
 until it congeals. Should it be too 
 stiff, reduce by stirring in sufficient oil 
 to attain the proper consistency. The 
 odor of the paraffine oil can be de- 
 stroyed by an addition of mirbane oil. 
 
 A Lubricant for Bells, which has 
 stood a practical test, is prepared by 
 heating 50 parts of linseed oil and '24 
 of ordinary turpentine on a water-bath, 
 and adding gradually and with con- 
 stant stirring 23 parts of rosin finely 
 pulverized, and finally 1.5 parts of 
 medium fine colcothar. The mixture 
 is then allowed to cool. 
 
 French's Machine Grease. Mix to- 
 gether at a boiling heat 1000 parts of 
 petroleum, 88 parts of graphite, 3 parts 
 of beeswax, 9 parts of tallow, and 3 
 parts of caustic soda. 
 
 Lubricant for Car Axles. Melt to- 
 gether at a moderate heat 10 parts of 
 dark ozocerite and 2 to 4 of heavy 
 petroleum. This is also very suitable 
 for heavy wagons. 
 
 Belgian Wagon Grease. Melt in a 
 large open boiler 30 parts of palm oil 
 and 12 of tallow, and add gradually 9 
 .parts of soda-lye. When the mass com- 
 mences to thicken add, with constant 
 stirring, 8 to 10 parts of boiling rain 
 water, let the mixture stand for 1 hour j 
 in the air, then pour it into a cooling 
 vessel and, after having worked it thor- : 
 oughly for 2 hours, add 120 parts of cold 
 rain water. 
 
 Excellent Carriage Grease. Melt in ' 
 an open, capacious iron boiler over a j 
 moderate fire 1 part of red, transparent j 
 rosin and 1 of rendered tallow. When j 
 the melting is complete add gradually 
 and with constant stirring 1 part of 
 caustic soda-lye. When the mixture 
 ceases to rise add 1 part of linseed oil ; 
 let the whole boil for hour, strain ! 
 while boiling hot through a cotton J 
 cloth into a clean vessel, and let it 
 cool. This will give a beautiful lemon- 
 colored, buttery grease which does not 
 gum. 
 
 Lubricant from Oil Residues* Place 
 
 in a boiler of the right capacity 500 parts 
 of oil residue and 100 parts of water, 
 | and bring them slowly to the boiling 
 I point. When all the oil is dissolved 
 add in small portions 40 to 50 parts of 
 hydrochloric acid of 8 to 10 B. Then 
 let the mixture boil and stir for i hour. 
 After this time, if the decomposition is 
 complete, the acid forms a combination 
 with the oil residues and the grease is 
 liberated in the form of a thick oil. 
 After resting for 24 hours the water con- 
 taining the salts and excess of acid is 
 drawn off, and the oil several times 
 washed with a large quantity of water 
 to free it from the last traces of acid. 
 It is finally mixed with 10, 20, or 30 
 per cent, of tallow, the quantity depend- 
 ing on the thickness of the oil. 
 
 Pyroleine (Lubrican ( for Mar.h inery). 
 Sixty parts of crude rape-seed oil are 
 slowly boiled with 3.5 parts of red lead 
 until the latter, which floats on the sur- 
 face, has become entirely brown. After 
 ascertaining that no red lead remains in 
 the mixture it is allowed to cool slowly 
 and decanted. The rape-seed oil thus 
 purified is well adapted for lubricating 
 steam-engines and heavy gears. For lu- 
 bricating spindles it is'diluted with 30 
 to 50 per cent, of mineral oil or shale oil. 
 
 Thinly-fluid Pyroleine. Ten gallons 
 of rape-seed oil are gradually heated in 
 a copper boiler of 20 gallons, capacity. 
 The boiling is continued till carbonic 
 acid, aeroleine, and other decomposed 
 gaseous products are noticed. After i 
 hour finely-pulverized minium is sifted 
 upon the surface of the oil, the oxidiz- 
 ing effect of which upon the albuminates 
 of the oil will be accompanied by the 
 formation of a white froth. The heat- 
 ing is discontinued as soon as black 
 lumps show themselves upon the surface; 
 the oil is then allowed to cool, the clear 
 portion poured off into a metal vessel 
 and allowed to stand quietly until en- 
 tirely clear. 
 
 Thickly-fluid Pyroleine* Twenty gal- 
 lons of rape-seed oil are heated with 
 2i pounds of minium and, while yet 
 hot, poured into a metal vessel and 
 mixed with mineral oil, shale oil, or 
 any other very thinly-fluid oil until 
 the pyroleine 'has the desired consist- 
 ency ; for instance, that of a fat oil. The 
 oil is cleared by allowing it to stand 
 in a room heated" iu winter to (J5 F. 
 
234 
 
 TECHNO-CIIEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Metalline. In using this lubricant for 
 journals no grease of any kind is re- 
 quired. Metalline, according to the de- 
 scriptions of the American patent, is 
 very ductile. The first receipt con- 
 sists in grinding together 80 parts of 
 finely-ground pock-wood with 20 of sper- 
 maceti. There are 13 more receipts : 
 
 I. Eighty parts of ivory dust and 20 
 of spermaceti. 
 
 II. Ninety-nine parts of tin and 1 of 
 residue of petroleum. 
 
 III. Ninety-five parts of zinc and 5 
 of melted caoutchouc. 
 
 IV. Ninety parts of anthracite and 10 
 of tallow free from oil. 
 
 V. Ninety-eight parts of bronze (best 
 of 93 per cent, of copper, 6 per cent, of 
 tin, and 1 per cent, of lead or zinc) and 
 2 of melted caoutchouc. 
 
 VI. Ninety-six parts of type-metal 
 and 4 of melted caoutchouc. 
 
 VII. Ninety-five parts of oxide of 
 tin and 5 of beeswax. 
 
 VIII. Fifty parts of iron, i of par- 
 affine, and 50 of tin. 
 
 IX. Eighty parts of lead and 20 of 
 cannel coal. 
 
 X. Ninety -two parts of fresh bones 
 and 8 of beeswax. 
 
 XI. Ninety parts of prepared alumina 
 and 10 of spermaceti. 
 
 XII. Ninety-five parts of copper 
 glance, as free from quartz as possible, 
 and 5 of melted caoutchouc. 
 
 XIII. Eighty-six parts of lead, 12 of 
 lampblack, and 2 of beeswax. 
 
 New Lubricant for Machines, from 
 Sea-weed. I. Solid Lubricant. Boil 
 carrageen (Fucus crispus] to a thick 
 jelly and mix with it flour in the pro- 
 portion of 1 part flour to 30 of jelly. To 
 15 parts of this compound add in the 
 order as given 1 part of ordinary soap, 
 li of tallow, both in a fluid state, 1 of 
 palm oil, and of graphite. In place 
 of the fatty ingredients the following 
 may be used : i part of tallow, f of 
 finely-pulverized soapstone, and 1 of 
 ordinary soda. When all have been 
 melted over a fire and thoroughly 
 mixed together the compound is poured 
 through a fine sieve and vigorously 
 stirred until it congeals. 
 
 II. Liquid Lubricant. The above 
 jelly of carrageen is also the basis of 
 this. With 10 parts of it are mixed 8 
 parts of lard oil, or 4 of lard oil and 4 of 
 
 rape-seed oil, \ of pulverized soapstone, 
 and J of solution of caustic potash of 10 e 
 B. The mixture is, with constant stir- 
 ring, brought to the boiling point, then 
 passed through a fine sieve and stirred 
 until cold. 
 
 Lubricating Oil for Astronomical 
 Instruments. A solution of 1 part of 
 rosin in 20 of finest olive oil is espe- 
 cially well adapted for the purpose. It 
 does not become rancid and forms no 
 verdigris. 
 
 VULCAN OIL. For Spindles. Ninety 
 parts of distilled oleine free from min- 
 eral acid, and 10 of purified petroleum. 
 
 For Carding Engines. Ninety-five 
 parts of distilled oleine free from" min- 
 eral acid and 5 of purified petroleum. 
 
 For Hydraulic Motors. Ninety parts 
 of distilled oleine free from mineral acid, 
 5 of lard, 2 each of purified petroleum 
 and graphite. 
 
 Machine-oil from Coal-tar Varnish 
 Oil. Mix intimately 25 parts each of 
 purified heavy rosin oil, ordinary olive 
 oil, and varnish oil, and keep it in well- 
 closed tin cans. 
 
 Tuis composition is a very fine lubri- 
 cant for steam-engines, valves, etc. It 
 does not congeal nor gum, but the 
 reverse, dissolves resinous substances, 
 and leaves no unpleasant odor. It 
 evolves no inflammable vapors, and 
 does not attack metals. 
 
 Lubricant for Carriages from Coal- 
 tar Varnish Oil. Melt in a shallow 
 iron boiler 5 parts each of stearine and 
 tallow and 1 part of parafline, all of an 
 inferior quality, then add 20 parts of 
 heavy rosin oil and stir the compound 
 until it begins to cool, then add 4 parts 
 of caustic soda-lye of 10B.; continue 
 stirring until all are intimately mixed, 
 and then add gradually 10 parts of 
 coal-tar varnish oil. The compound, 
 when it has assumed the consistency of 
 wagon-grease, is packed in boxes. In 
 summer it may be necessary to increase 
 the quantity of stearine and tallow 
 somewhat, to prevent the fat from pen- 
 etrating through the boxes. 
 
 Persoz's Patent Wagon-grease. 
 Heavy parafline oil, rosin oil, tallow, 
 of each 60 parts, and oleic acid 30 parts. 
 Melt the tallow by heating it in the oils, 
 and saponify the mixture by adding 15 
 parts of finely-pulverized burned lime 
 and 6 parts of soda-lye of 40 B. 
 
MARINE GLUE. 
 
 235 
 
 Oil for Watch-makers. It is best to 
 use the purest olive oil, after it has 
 been stored for some time, and expose it 
 to a temperature a few degrees below 
 the freezing point, which will cause all 
 foreign substances to separate. The 
 supernatant clear oil is then carefully 
 poured off and filtered through a cup 
 of linden wood or pit of elder wood. 
 By this process an oil is obtained which 
 will remain liquid for several years, 
 and does not attack the delicate 
 machinery. 
 
 Neat's-foot oil treated in the above 
 manner furnishes a less useful oil, since 
 it loses much fatty matter by exposure 
 to cold. 
 
 A very useful oil is obtained by dis- 
 solving 1 part of pure neat's-foot oil in 
 3 of pure benzine. Allow the com- 
 pound to remain for several days in a 
 closed vessel, then filter and expose the 
 solution to a temperature of 40 F., at 
 which it is again filtered and the ben- 
 zine distilled off. The oil should be 
 kept in small, dark vials protected from 
 the air. 
 
 A very fine lubricant for clocks and 
 watches is, according to Artemus, ob- 
 tained by mixing 2 parts of solar oil 
 and 1 of rape-seed oil. 
 
 To Test the Fitness of Oils for Lubri- 
 cating Watches and Clocks, pour a drop 
 of the oil to be tested upon different 
 metal plates, as iron, brass, tin, lead, 
 etc., keep them in a place free from 
 dust, and examine the drops during 8 
 to 14 days in regard to their liquidity. 
 Oil remaining liquid after the lapse of 
 this time can be safely used. 
 
 MARINE GLUE. 
 
 This glue is water-proof and can be 
 used to cement metal, wood, glass, 
 stone, pasteboard, etc., and is especially 
 adapted for calking vessels. 
 
 Hard Marine Glue. Suspend 10 
 parts of caoutchouc enclosed in a linen 
 bag in a vessel containing 120 parts of 
 refined petroleum, so that only i of the 
 bag is immersed, and allow it to remain 
 10 to 14 days in a warm place. Then 
 melt 20 parts of asphaltum in an iron 
 boiler, and add the caoutchouc solution 
 in a thin jet, and heat the mixture, 
 while constantly stirring, until it is 
 
 perfectly homogeneous. Pour it into 
 greased metallic moulds, where it forms 
 into dark-brown or black plates diffi- 
 cult to break. When it is to be used it 
 should be melted in a kettle placed in 
 boiling water to prevent its burning, 
 which it is very apt to do, as it is a bad 
 conductor of heat. After it has been 
 liquefied, remove the kettle from the 
 water and place it over a fire, where it 
 can be heated, if necessary to make it 
 more fluid, to 300 F., carefully stirring 
 it to prevent burning. 
 
 If possible, the surfaces to be glued 
 together should be heated to 212 F., 
 as the glue can then be slowly applied. 
 The thinner the layer of glue in ce- 
 menting together smooth surfaces, the 
 better it will adhere. But a somewhat 
 thicker layer is required for rough 
 surfaces (for instance, boards not 
 planed), the excess of glue being forced 
 out by strong pressure. Generally 
 speaking it is best to subject all articles 
 cemented together by marine glue to as 
 strong a pressure as possible until the 
 glue is congealed. 
 
 We are fully convinced by experi- 
 ments that, with the aid of this glue, 
 square vats, perfectly water-tight, can 
 be constructed from boards. Wooden 
 pins dipped in the marine glue should 
 be used for putting the vats together. 
 
 Elastic Marine Glue. This is a solu- 
 tion of caoutchouc in a suitable solvent, 
 as benzole, bisulphide of carbon, naph- 
 tha, or chloroform, principally used 
 for coating ropes and other materials 
 exposed to the alternate action of 
 air and water. It can be cheapened 
 by adding very fine sand or whit- 
 ing. 
 
 Marine Glue for Damp Walls. Dis- 
 solve 10 parts of caoutchouc, 10 of 
 whiting, 20 of oil of turpentine, 10 of 
 bisulphide of carbon, 5 of rosin, and 5 
 of asphaltum in a suitable vessel situ- 
 ated in a warm place and frequently 
 shaken. Scrape the wall smooth and 
 clean, and apply the glue with a broad 
 brush to the wall on the damp place, 
 and about 8 inches higher than the line 
 of dampness, and before the glue is dry 
 lay on plain paper, which will adhere 
 tightly. On this plain paper the wall- 
 paper can be pasted in the usual man- 
 ner. If carefully done the wall-paper 
 will always remain dry. 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 MATCHES. 
 
 Swedish Matches are made in Swe- 
 den almost exclusively of white poplar 
 wood, it being the cheapest. Blocks 
 of the length of the match are cut by 
 machinery from the round logs and 
 splintered, the splints kiln-dried and 
 coated with paraffine. The end to be 
 covered with the inflammable com- 
 pound is dipped in a solution of paraf- 
 fine in benzine, when they are again 
 dried. They are then dipped into the 
 inflammable compound, which should 
 be of such a consistency that only small 
 drops remain adhering to the stick. 
 The following mixtures are used : 
 
 PARTS. 
 
 T n~ IIL iv? 
 
 Chlorate of potassium 2000 2000 2000 4000 
 
 Plumbic dioxide . . 1150 21.00 
 
 Minium 'Z500 2500 2000 4000 
 
 Antimony trisulphido 1250 1250 1300 3000 
 
 Chroraate of potassium 1318 750 1500 
 
 Gum-Arabic .... 670 670 670 670 
 
 Paraffine 250 250 
 
 In Nos. I. and II. the paraffine is first 
 rubbed up with the antimony and 
 then incorporated with the compound. 
 The compound ignites easily and trans- 
 mits the flame quickly to the wood. 
 Matches with compound No. II. ig- 
 nite well and burn quietly. Matches 
 with No. III. ignite easily on the 
 striking surface and quickly transmit 
 the flame to the wood. Compound 
 No. IV. furnishes matches exactly like 
 those of the Jonkoping product; they 
 ignite easily on the striking surface, 
 transmit the flame quickly to the wood, 
 burn quietly and without noise. The 
 brown color of Swedish matches is due 
 to the antimony trisulphide in the com- 
 pound. 
 
 Striking Surface of Sivedish Matches 
 consists of a compound prepared by 
 mixing 9 parts of amorphous phos- 
 phorus, 7 of iron pyrites pulverized 
 and sifted, 3 of pulverized glass, and 1 
 of glue or gum with the requisite quan- 
 tity of water. 
 
 Mutches ivithout Sulphur, which can 
 be ignited by friction on any surface 
 and do not absorb moisture from the 
 air, are prepared by dipping the 
 matches into a hot solution of any kind 
 of fat, and using the following iuflam- 
 
 i mable compound : Seven parts of phos- 
 I phorus, 7 of gum-Arabic, 40 of lead 
 ! nitrate, 5 of pulverized glass, and 10 of 
 water. 
 
 Inflammable Compounds. H.Schwarz 
 recommends the following mixtures as 
 giving excellent results: I. One part of 
 pulverized sulphur is melted in warm 
 water with 4 of yellow phosphorus. 
 Most of the water is then poured off 
 and the fluid mixture rubbed inti- 
 mately with 4 parts of dextrine gum. 
 Now compound 45 parts of minium 
 with li equivalent of nitric acid, dry 
 the mixture, pulverize it, and add it 
 gradually to the phosphorus mixture. 
 The matches are saturated with solu- 
 tion of pine rosin in alcohol, and dried 
 at a moderate heat. 
 
 II. Mix 1 part of phosphorus, 5 of 
 chalk, 2.8 of anhydrous gypsum, 6 of 
 pulverized glass, and G of some aggluti- 
 nant and coloring matter. This com- 
 pound requires a rough striking sur- 
 face, ignites with a slight report, and 
 does not absorb moisture. 
 
 Inflammable Compound without 
 Phosphorus. Thirty-six parts of 
 plumbic dioxide, 15 of chlorate of 
 potassium, 9 of manganese dioxide, 8 
 of flowers of sulphur, 6 each of infu- 
 sorial earth, pulverized glass or sand 
 and amorphous phosphorus, and 8 of 
 glue. 
 
 The compound ignites by friction on 
 any surface. 
 
 Parlor Matches. The sticks are first 
 thoroughly dried, then soaked with 
 Btearic acid, and finally dipped into an 
 inflammable compound prepared from 
 3 parts of phosphorus, i of gum traga- 
 canth, 3 of water, 2 of fine sand, and 2 
 of red lead. To perfume the matches 
 they are dipped, after the compound is 
 dry, into a solution of aromatic gum, 
 made of 4 parts of benzoin in 10 of 
 spirit of wine of 40 B. 
 
 Colored Parlor Matches. The in- 
 flammable compound on the end of the 
 matches may be coated with different 
 colored lacquers to give a variegated 
 appearance when placed in boxes. 
 
 The lacquers are prepared in the 
 following manner : Eight parts of pul- 
 verized rosin are dissolved in a hot 
 mixture of 200 parts of alcohol aud 
 4 parts of glycerine, and 40 parts of 
 solution of shellac added to the hot 
 
MATCHES. 
 
 237 
 
 Solution. The whole is then thoroughly 
 agitated and, while yet warm, coin- 
 pounded with the necessary quantity 
 of coloring matter, and finally allowed 
 to cool. 
 
 The green iridescent bronze color, 
 which is in great demand, requires for 
 the above solution of lacquer 80 parts 
 of crystallized fuchsine, or 28 parts of 
 methyl-violet. To produce violet an 
 addition of only part of methyl-violet 
 is required ; for blue f part of aniline 
 blue soluble in water; for orange 4 
 
 rrts of aniline orange ; for blue-green 
 part of methyl-green. For yellow- 
 green 2 parts of blue-green are mixed 
 with 1 of orange ; and for red 32 parts 
 of coralline with an addition of 2 parts 
 of caustic soda-lye, dissolved in the 
 above lacquer. 
 
 All these colors cover easily the head 
 of the match, and, when dry, possess 
 the brilliant gloss desired. 
 
 A ,tti-phos/)'iorus Matches. The paste 
 for the friction surface consists of 
 minium, sand, and amorphous phos- 
 phorus rubbed up with a solution of 
 gum-Arabic and applied with a brush ; 
 or of 10 parts of amorphous phosphorus, 
 8 of pyrolusite or antimony trisulphide, 
 and 3 to G of glue dissolved in water. 
 To prepare the matches the ends are 
 first dipped into melted sulphur, stearic 
 acid, or wax, and then into a compound 
 of tj parts of chlorate of potassium and 
 2 to 3 of trisulphide of antimony mixed 
 with a solution of 1 part of glue in 
 water. It must be remarked here that 
 the mixture of bichromate of potassium 
 and antimony is exceedingly danger- 
 ous, as it is easily ignited by a shock or 
 friction. 
 
 Matches Inextinguishable by the 
 Wind. Sheets of paper, thin paste- 
 board, or wood are saturated with a 
 solution of saltpetre in water to which 
 has been added some substance emitting 
 an agreeable odor while burning. When 
 the sheets are dry, a thin layer of a 
 phosphorus compound, as is used in 
 the manufacture of friction matches, 
 and to which some incombustible sub- 
 stance, as pulverized glass, fine sand, 
 etc., has been added, is placed between 
 two of them, leaving a part of one end 
 free for handling. When dry the 2 
 sheets are pasted together, and this is 
 cut up into strips of suitable shape. 
 
 These strips are then coated with a 
 varnish to protect them from moisture 
 and to prevent their ignition by friction 
 during transportation, etc. Colored 
 varnish may be used to distinguish the 
 part containing the phosphorus from 
 the ends of the sheet left uncoated. 
 
 Matches without Phosphorus. Pre- 
 pare a paste of 10 parts of dextrine, 75 
 of pulverized chlorate of potassium, 35 
 of pulverized plumbic dioxide, and a 
 like quantity of pulverized pyrites with 
 the necessary quantity of water, and 
 dip the end of the splints into the com- 
 pound. 
 
 Matches without Phosphorus, of an 
 excellent quality, and in the manufact- 
 ure of which there is not the slightest 
 danger, are obtained from the follow- 
 ing "mixture: 53.8 parts of chlorate 
 of potassium, 10 of gum-Arabic, 3 of 
 gum tragacanth, 6 of pyrolusite, 6 of 
 ferric oxide, 12 of pulverized glass, 5 
 of bichromate of potassium, 3 of sul- 
 phur, 1.2 of chalk, and sufficient water. 
 
 Paraffine or sulphur is used for trans- 
 mitting the flame to the wood. The 
 matches can only be ignited by being 
 struck on a surface composed of the 
 following mixture: Five parts of anti- 
 mony trisulphide, 3 of amorphous phos- 
 phorus, 14 of pyrolusite, and 4 of glue. 
 
 Amorces d'Allumcttes are matches 
 prepared from 20 parts of phosphorus, 
 5.5 of gun-cotton, 5 of pulverized wood 
 charcoal, 5 of iron filings, 51.5 of sul- 
 phur, and 10 of gum. 
 
 J\ T ick/e's Process of Preparing an 
 Amorphous Phosphorus from the Ordi- 
 nary Article. The conversion of ordi- 
 nary into amorphous phosphorus is ac- 
 complished by heating ordinary phos- 
 phorus from 446 to 482 F. in a closed 
 iron boiler. After 3 or 4 weeks the 
 phosphorus is found to be converted 
 into a red, brittle mass which is ground 
 by millstones under water, and sepa- 
 rated from the ordinary phosphorus 
 either by bisulphide of carbon or caustic 
 soda, in. which the latter is soluble. 
 The temperature requires careful regu- 
 lation, for if it is allowed to rise to 500 
 F. the amorphous phosphorus quickly 
 resumes the ordinary condition, evolv- 
 ing the heat which it had absorbed dur- 
 ing its conversion, and thus converting 
 much of the phosphorus into vapor. 
 This reconversion may be shown by 
 
238 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 heating a little amorphous phosphorus 
 in a test-tube, when drops of ordinary 
 phosphorus condense on the cool part 
 of the tube. Ordinary phosphorus is 
 very poisonous, while amorphous 
 phosphorus appears to be harmless. 
 The vapor of phosphorus produces a 
 Very injurious effect upon the persons 
 engaged in the manufacture of matches, 
 resulting in the decay of the lower jaw. 
 This evil may be greatly mitigated by 
 good ventilation or by diffusing turpen- 
 tine vapor through the air of the work- 
 room, or may be entirely obviated by 
 substituting amorphous phosphorus for 
 the ordinary variety. 
 
 METAL INDUSTRY. 
 
 To Harden Cast Iron. Mix 2 pounds 
 of concentrated sulphuric acid and 2 
 ounces of nitric acid with 2 gallons of 
 water. Immerse the article at a cherry- 
 red heat in this mixture. The surface 
 becomes very hard. 
 
 To Give Iron Articles a Brilliant 
 Lustre and Silvery Appearance. Pour 
 1 pint of alcohol of 90 per cent, over f 
 ounce of antimony trichloride (butter 
 of antimony), 1 drachms of pulverized 
 arsenious acid, and l ounces of elutri- 
 ated bloodstone, and digest the whole 
 at a moderate heat, frequently shaking 
 it. In polishing the articles with this 
 fluid a thin film of antimony and arsenic 
 is precipitated upon them, which gives 
 a beautiful appearance to the surface 
 and protects it against oxidation. 
 
 To Restore Burnt Cast Steel. Heat 
 the article to a red heat and dust it 
 with a mixture of 8 parts of red chromate 
 of potassium, 4 of saltpetre, each of 
 aloes and gum-Arabic, and i of rosin. 
 Then heat it several times and cool it. 
 If the article is to be especially hard 
 take 8 parts of saltpetre and 3 of 
 rosin. 
 
 To Make Steel so Soft that it can be 
 Worked like Copper. Pulverize beef 
 bones, mix them with equal parts of 
 loam and calves' hair, and stir the mixt- 
 ure into a thick paste with water. Ap- 
 ply a coat of this to the steel and place 
 it in a crucible, cover this with another, 
 fasten the two together with wire, and 
 close the joint hermetically with clay. 
 Then place the crucibles in the fire and 
 
 heat them slowly. When taken from 
 the fire let them cool by placing them 
 in ashes. On opening the crucibles the 
 steel will be found so soft that it can be 
 engraved like copper. 
 
 Welding Steel to Cast Iron may be 
 accomplished by first shaping the steel 
 so that it will correspond to the surface 
 of the cast iron to which it is to be 
 welded without forming a lap, then 
 heating to a cherry-red, next applying 
 borax to the surfaces to be united, and 
 immediately heating the parts to a 
 welding heat, after which a strong press- 
 ure applied without hammering will 
 securely join the steel to the iron. 
 
 Hardening and Welding Compounds. 
 I. Hardening Compound. Pulverize 
 and mix intimately 1 part of prussiate 
 of potash, 1 of purified saltpetre, 1 of 
 calcined cows' hoofs, & of gum-Arabic, 
 & of aloes, and i of common salt. Scat- 
 ter the compound upon the steel while 
 at a red heat and upon the wrought 
 iron while at a white heat, and burn it 
 thoroughly in. After cooling the hard- 
 ened parts will be as hard as steel. 
 
 II. Welding Compound for welding 
 wrought iron to wrought iron at a red 
 heat : 1 part by weight of borax, i of sal- 
 ammoniac, and i of water. Boil these 
 ingredients, with constant stirring, until 
 the mixture is stiff, and then allow it to 
 harden over the fire. When cool the 
 compound is pulverized and intimately 
 mixed with i part of wrought-iron fil- 
 ings free from rust. The pieces to be 
 welded together are first dovetailed or 
 tied together, and the place to be welded 
 is made red hot; the powder is then 
 scattered upon it and liquefied over the 
 fire. A few light taps with the hammer 
 suffice to join the two pieces together. 
 
 III. Welding Compound to Weld 
 Steel to Wrought Iron at a Red Heat. 
 Pulverize and mix Avith water 6 parts 
 by weight of borax, 2 of sal-ammoniac, 
 1 of prussiate of potash, and i of rosin. 
 Boil the compound, stirring it con- 
 stantly, until it forms a stiff paste, 
 which is allowed to harden over the 
 fire. When cold pulverize it and mix 
 it with 1 part of wrought-iron filings 
 free from rust. In using it scatter the 
 powder upon the red-hot pieces and 
 liquefy it over the fire. 
 
 IV. Welding Compound to Weld 
 Wrought Iron, to Wrought Iron at a 
 
METAL INDUSTRY. 
 
 239 
 
 White Heat. Pulverize and mix 1 
 part by weight of sal-ammoniac, 2 of 
 borax, 2 of prussiate of potash, and 4 
 of wrought-iron filings free from rust. 
 Heat the pieces to be welded together 
 to a white heat, then scatter the powder 
 2 or 3 times upon the proper place, 
 and liquefy it. Two or 3 vigorous taps 
 with the hammer will then suffice to 
 join the pieces. 
 
 V. Hardening Compound to Make 
 Wro ught Iron Very H< ird. Cut i nto small 
 pieces 1 part by weight of cow or horse's 
 hoof and 2 of old leather, and add ^ of 
 common salt. These ingredients are 
 placed in a heating-box together with 
 the pieces to be hardened. The box is 
 hermetically closed with clay and heated 
 for 1 hour at a red heat, when the pieces 
 are taken out and cooled in cold water. 
 
 Welding Cant Steel. Take 64 parts 
 of borax, 20 of sal-ammoniac, 10 of 
 ferrocyanide of potassium, and 5 of 
 rosin. The whole is boiled with the 
 addition of some water, under constant 
 stirring, until a homogeneous compound 
 is formed, which is allowed to dry out 
 slowly in the same iron vessel in which 
 it has been boiled. An analysis of a 
 sample of this welding compound 
 formed the basis for the composition 
 of the following compound, which is 
 highly recommended. The welding is 
 accomplished at a light-yellow heat, or 
 between that and a white heat, and, as 
 the quality of the steel is not in the least 
 affected, it needs no further treatment. 
 The compound is composed of 61 parts 
 of borax, 17i of sal-ammoniac, 16^ of 
 ferrocyanide of potassium, and 5 of 
 rosin. For welding steel to steel less 
 of the ferrocyanide may be used. The 
 borax and sal-ammoniac are pulverized, 
 mixed, and gradually heated in a 
 porcelain or iron vessel, until both melt 
 in the water of crystallization of the 
 first. A strong odor of ammonia is de- 
 veloped. The heating is continued, 
 under constant stirring, until the odor 
 of ammonia is scarcely perceptible, 
 water being added from time to time to 
 replace that lost by evaporation. The 
 pulverized ferrocyanide and the rosin 
 are then added, and the heating con- 
 tinued, under constant stirring, until a 
 thick paste has been formed. 
 
 As soon as a weak odor of cyanide is 
 perceptible the heating is interrupted, 
 
 as otherwise the boric acid would exert 
 a decomposing effect upon the ferro- 
 cyanide of potassium. The thick paste 
 is spread upon a sheet-iron plate in a 
 layer at the utmost i inch thick, and 
 dried at a very moderate heat. To 
 facilitate the drying, the paste is loos- 
 ened and turned with a spatula, so that 
 lumps are formed, which are stored 
 away. When it is to be used a suffi- 
 cient quantity of one of the lumps is 
 pulverized and scattered upon the 
 article to be welded, which has been 
 heated to a light-red heat. It is then 
 heated to a strong yellow heat and the 
 welding accomplished in the usual 
 manner. 
 
 In the above compound, and manner 
 of preparing it, boracic acid and com- 
 mon salt are formed from the borax 
 and sal-ammoniac, while ammonia es- 
 capes. The welding compound can 
 therefore be directly prepared by mix- 
 ing the following ingredients : 41.5 parts 
 of boracic acid, 35 of pure, dry, common 
 salt, 15.5 to 26.7 of ferrocyanide of 
 potassium, 7.6 of rosin, and perhaps 3 
 to 5 of dry carbonate of sodium. 
 
 This mixture does excellent service, 
 is, in fact, as good as the above com- 
 pound and far easier prepared. It has 
 only the disadvantage of not remaining 
 entirely unaltered if kept for any length 
 of time, but gradually decomposes and 
 assumes a blue color. But this, as the 
 compound is so easily prepared, is a 
 minor evil. 
 
 To Harden Files and other Steel 
 Instruments. The files, etc., are first 
 coated with a paste prepared by boil- 
 ing glue and salt in yeast, and thickened 
 by an addition of wood charcoal and 
 graphite (black lead). Upon this coat 
 is scattered a coarse powder consisting 
 of a mixture of horn, wood charcoal, 
 and common salt. A solid crust is 
 formed upon the files which protects 
 them from a displacement of the cuts 
 by the metal and conveys to them oxy- 
 gen while being heated. For tempering, 
 the files are brought into a lead bath. 
 To prevent the oxidation of the Jead on 
 the surface a mixture of potash, soda, 
 and tartar is scattered upon it. The 
 files remain in the bath from 5 to 8 
 minutes, according to their thickness, 
 and are then immersed in water. 
 
 To He-sharpen Files. Well-worn 
 
240 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 files are first carefully cleansed with 
 hot water and soda; they are then 
 brought into connection with the posi- 
 tive pole of a battery, in a bath com- 
 posed of 40 parts of sulphuric acid and 
 1000 of water. The negative is formed 
 of a copper spiral surrounding the files 
 but not touching them; the coil ter- 
 minating in a wire which rises to the 
 surface. This arrangement is the result 
 of practical experience. When the 
 files have been in the bath for 10 min- 
 utes they are taken out, washed, and 
 dried, when the whole of the hollows 
 will be found to have been attacked in 
 a sensible manner; but should the effect 
 not be sufficient, they are replaced in 
 the bath for the same period as before. 
 Sometimes two operations are necessary, 
 but seldom more. The files thus 
 treated are to all appearance like new 
 ones and good for 60 hours' work. 
 
 Hardening Compound for Thin SteeL 
 Dr. Harlmann recommends to add 
 about 1 pound of rosin to the usual 
 mixture, composed of 1 gallon of train 
 oil, 2 pounds of beef suet, and 44 ounces 
 of wax. He also recommends another 
 compound, consisting of 95 parts of 
 spermaceti oil, 10 of melted tallow, 4V 
 of neat's- foot oil, 4 of pitch, and 14 of 
 rosin. 
 
 New Process of Hardening Gun- 
 barrels. The barrel to be hardened is 
 placed in a gas-pipe of suitable size, the 
 lower end of which is made narrow to 
 prevent the barrel from slipping out 
 while in a vertical position. Several 
 of such pipes containing gun-barrels 
 are then heated to a red heat in a re- 
 yerberatory furnace, when some harden- 
 ing compound is thrown into every bar- 
 rel. The pipes are now taken from the 
 furnace, placed in a vertical position 
 tinder a hose, and hardening water is 
 passed through each barrel under a 
 pressure of 4 to 5 atmosphere. It is 
 very suitable to add a small quantity of 
 sulphuric and nitric acids to the hard- 
 ening water. 
 
 To Harden Steel in Sealing-wax. 
 Watch and clock-makers and engravers 
 harden their steel in sealing wax. The 
 article is heated to a white heat and 
 thrust into sealing-wax, allowed to re- 
 main for a second, then withdrawn, and 
 again inserted in another part. This 
 treatment is continued till the steel is 
 
 cold and will no more enter the sealing- 
 wax. The extreme hardness of steel 
 thus prepared enables it to engrave or 
 bore steel hardened by other processes, 
 the boring or engraving tool being first 
 dipped in oil of turpentine. 
 
 Hardening Water. Two quarts of 
 water, 1 quart of urine, U ounces of 
 saltpetre, 2 ounces of common salt, and 
 4 ounce of sal-ammoniac. 
 
 Poncelet's Fluids/or Hardening Steel 
 Articles, I. Ten pounds of rosin, 5 
 pounds of train oil, 2 pounds of lard, 
 and 44 ounces of assafcetida. By using 
 this bath the steel, even if frequently 
 heated, retains its former peculiarities. 
 
 II. This is especially used for harden- 
 ing cutlery. Two pounds of refined 
 borax, 4 pounds of sal-ammoniac, 3 
 quarts of water, and 4 ounces of French 
 red wine. 
 
 III. Three pounds of sal-ammoniac, 
 1 pound of potash, 4 gallons of water, 
 14 pints of red wine or wine vinegar, 
 and 1 pound of tartaric acid. 
 
 New Case-hardening Compound. 
 This compound is very efficacious for 
 case-hardening iron. It consists of 16 
 parts of lampblack, 18 of sal-soda, 4 of 
 muriate of soda, and 1 of black oxide 
 of manganese. 
 
 To Obtain Smooth Castings it is 
 highly recommended to mix with the 
 green sand forming the mould about 
 -$ part of tar. The mixture is em- 
 ployed without the addition of any 
 other substance. 
 
 To Harden Saws and Springs. The 
 following composition is highly recom- 
 mended: Four and a half pounds of 
 suet and 8f ounces of beeswax are 
 boiled with 2i gallons of whale oil. 
 This will serve for thin articles and 
 most kinds of steel. For thicker pieces 
 about 2i pounds of black rosin is added 
 to the above compound, but it should 
 be judiciously added, or the articles 
 will become too hard and brittle. The 
 usual way of proceeding is to heat the 
 saws in long furnaces and then to im- 
 merse them horizontally and edgewise 
 in a long trough containing the com- 
 position. Two troughs are generally 
 used alternately. Part of the com- 
 pound is wiped off with a piece of 
 leather when the articles are removed 
 from the trough. They are then heated 
 one by one over a clear coke fire until 
 
METAL INDUSTRY. 
 
 241 
 
 the grease inflames ; this is called 
 " Mazing off." When the saws are 
 wanted to be rather hard, but little of 
 the grease is burned off; when less, a 
 large portion ; and for a spring temper 
 the whole is allowed to burn away. 
 When the work is thick or irregularly 
 thick and thin, as in some springs, a 
 second and third application is burned 
 off to insure equality of temper at all 
 places. 
 
 To Convert Iron into Steel. J. H. 
 Wilson, of Liverpool, uses the follow- 
 ing process which he has patented in 
 England : Fo rty-six pounds of wrought- 
 iron waste, 2 pounds of spiegel iron, i 
 of ferro-manganese, and 6 ounces of 
 wood charcoal are melted together ; to 
 this may be added ounce of borax 
 and i ounce of chlorate of potassium. 
 
 Hard Silver . By melting together 
 100 parts of silver, 3.5 parts of iron, 2 
 parts of cobalt, and i part of nickel, a 
 compound is obtained which, by cool- 
 ing in cold water, becomes hard as 
 glass, and in hot water as hard as spring 
 steel. 
 
 Malleable Brass. Thirty-three parts 
 of copper are liquefied in a loosely- 
 covered crucible, and 25 parts of puri- 
 fied zinc added under constant stirring. 
 The zinc must be as free from iron as 
 possible, and the copper from lead. 
 The alloy is cast in moulding sand into 
 bars. It is easily wrought at a red 
 heat ; in a cold state it can be stretched 
 under the hammer; at a white heat it 
 spits (scatters) under the hammer. 
 
 Very Tenacious Urass is prepared 
 from 54 parts of copper and 46 of zinc, 
 but both metals must be absolutely free 
 from tin and lead. 
 
 Steel Wire for Musical Instruments. 
 It is of the greatest importance that 
 these wires should possess great solidity 
 combined with a certain degree of 
 elasticity. It becomes, therefore, neces- 
 sary to anneal the wires to a certain 
 degree after they have been hardened, 
 the accomplishment of which presents 
 many difficulties. 
 
 Webster and Horsfall first harden 
 the wire by heating it to a red heat 
 and then cooling suddenly. To obtain 
 a constant temperature for annealing 
 th.-v use a metallic mixture of 40 parts 
 of lead, 26 of antimony, 22 of tin, 21 of 
 zinc, and 1 of bismuth. These ingredi- 
 16 
 
 ! ents are melted together in a wrought- 
 | iron vessel, carefully stirred, and heated 
 to just above the melting point. The 
 hardened wire to be annealed is then 
 brought into this bath and kept there, 
 according to its thickness, sufficiently 
 long to acquire a uniform temperature. 
 It is then cooled by immersing in water, 
 which will give it all the qualities de- 
 manded for piano strings. 
 
 To Weld Copper. A mixture is em- 
 ployed composed of 358 parts of phos- 
 phate of sodium and 124 of boraeic 
 acid. The powder is applied when the 
 metal is at a dull-red heat; it is then 
 brought to a cherry-red, and at once 
 hammered. As the metal is very apt 
 to soften when exposed to a high degree 
 of heat, a wooden hammer is recom- 
 mended.. All carbonaceous matters 
 must be carefully removed from the 
 surfaces to be joined, as the success of 
 the operation depends on the formation 
 of a very fusible phosphate of copper, 
 which would be reduced by the carbon 
 to the state of a phosphide. The ph'>s- 
 j phate of copper dissolves a thin film of 
 I oxide on the surfaces of the metal, 
 j keeping these clean and in a condition 
 to weld. 
 
 Another Process is as follows: .The 
 two pieces of copper to be united hav- 
 ing been previously shaped so that the 
 surfaces form a lap or other suitable 
 joint, borax is applied on and between 
 i the surfaces of the joint, which are then 
 heated and hammered. The borax is 
 prepared by being heated until all the 
 water of crystallization has evaporated, 
 when the residue is pulverized for use. 
 After being hammered while hot, the 
 joint is further heated to a white heat, 
 and sprinkled over with common salt 
 or other equivalent compound suitable 
 for the exclusion of oxygen, and then 
 welded ; or during the welding opera- 
 tion a current of chlorine gas may 
 be directed upon the heated copper 
 joint. 
 
 New Process of preparing Malleable 
 Nickel. Nickel in a melted state ab- 
 sorbs considerable quantities of oxygen 
 becoming thereby brittle and unsuited 
 for working. The evil can be remedied 
 by adding to the melted nickel a sub- 
 stance which not only absorbs oxygen, 
 with avidity, but possesses also great 
 affinity for nickel. The object is partly 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 attained by an addition of metallic 
 manganese, as is done in the fabrication 
 of steel ; but this, like all other easily 
 combustible metals, disappears in re- 
 melting, and leaves the nickel as brittle 
 as ever. The best means is an addition 
 of phosphorus in the form of a salt, 
 which is obtained by melting together 
 a mixture of phosphate of lime, silica, 
 coal, and nickel, enclosing about 6 per 
 cent, of phosphorus. Nickel contain- 
 ing about 0.025 per cent, of phosphorus 
 has been rolled out cold to a sheet 
 0.019 inch thick. In alloying with 
 copper, ph >sphorus-nickel acts more 
 favorably than the pure metal, the 
 easting being cleaner and more uni- 
 form. Phosphorus makes it also pos- 
 sible to alloy nickel with iron in all 
 proportions, and to always obtain soft 
 and malleable products. 
 
 Dense and Flexible Copper Castings 
 are obtained by adding cryolite and 
 sugar of lead to the copper after it is 
 melted. The proportions are as fol- 
 lows : Two pounds of pulverized cryo- 
 lite and 8J ounces of sugar of lead to 
 200 pounds of copper ; a further addition 
 of 2 pounds of borax being also advisa- 
 ble. The quantities of the additions 
 may be varied according to circum- 
 stances. The mixture of cryolite and 
 sugar of lead, with or without borax, 
 is added after the copper is melted. 
 When the compound is entirely melted, 
 which will be the case in 10 to 15 min- 
 utes, the melted copper is poured into 
 the mould. 
 
 Copper Steel is obtained by melting 
 together 3 parts of fluo-silicate of potas- 
 sium and 1 each of soda and copper at 
 such a temperature that the metal is 
 covered with a very liquid slag, and 
 the copper beneath it forms silicide 
 of copper, containing 12 per cent, of 
 siliciura, and is as white as bismuth, 
 and hard. An alloy containing 4.8 
 per cent, of silicium has a beautiful 
 yellow-bronze color, is hard, and can 
 be worked with the same tools as iron. 
 It may also be drawn into wire. Al- 
 loys with a larger percentage of silicium 
 are harder. 
 
 Silicium. By melting together in a 
 crucible 1 part of granulated zinc, 1 of 
 sodium, and 3 of fluo-silicate of potas- 
 sium, a zinc button traversed by long 
 needles of silicium is obtained. On 
 
 dissolving the zinc in hydrochloric 
 acid, the silicium remains behind. By 
 heating the zinc containing silicium 
 above the evaporating point, the sili- 
 cium remains behind in a melted state, 
 and becomes entirely free from zinc by 
 heating it sufficiently. Pure silicium 
 can be melted and cast. 
 
 To Protect Lead Pipes it is recom- 
 mended to provide them with a coat 
 of sulphide of lead. Dissolve i ounce 
 of caustic soda in 1 quarts of water, mix 
 the solution with one of i ounce of 
 lead nitrate (or an equivalent of other 
 lead salt soluble in water) in i pint 
 of water, and heat the mixture to 195 
 F. As soon as a sufficient quantity of 
 lead salt has been added the fluid be- 
 comes turbid and must be very quickly 
 filtered through asbestos or a similar 
 material. To the clear fluid is added 
 2i ounces of hot water containing 1 
 drachm of sulphocarbamide in solu- 
 tion. In using the fluid it is best to 
 heat it to 150 F., and to hold the 
 thoroughly cleansed lead pipe in it for 
 a few moments, when it will be quickly 
 coated with a fine layer of sulphide of 
 lead. If the lead has been thoroughly 
 cleansed the sulphide of lead adheres 
 very tenaciously and can be easily 
 polished with a piece of leather. 
 
 To Protect Iron from Rmt. The fol- 
 lowing fluid is claimed to prevent the 
 rusting of iron: If pints each of lin- 
 seed oil and brown varnish, 1 quart of 
 turpentine, and li ounces of camphor. 
 Heat the mixture over the water-bath, 
 stirring constantly, then immerse the 
 articles for a few moments, rinse them 
 off with warm water, and dry. 
 
 To Protect Lightning Rods, Metal 
 Roofs, etc., from Rust. Convert 2 parts 
 of graphite mixed with 8 parts of sul- 
 phide of lead and 2 of sulphide of zinc 
 into an impalpable powder, and add 
 gradually 30 parts of linseed-oil varnish 
 previously heated to the boiling point. 
 This varnish dries very quickly and 
 protects the metals coated with it from 
 oxidation. 
 
 To Protect Wire from Rust. Melt 
 mineral pitch and add to it A part by 
 weight of coal-tar and 3a part by weight 
 of very fine quartz sand, and immerse 
 the wire in the mixture. The coating 
 becomes hard in 24 hours. 
 
 To Protect Iron and Steel from 
 
METAL INDUSTRY. 
 
 243 
 
 The following method is but little) 
 known, although it deserves preference | 
 to all others : Add 1| pints of cold 
 water to 7 ounces of quicklime. Let 
 the mixture stand until the supernatant 
 fluid is entirely clear. Then pour this 
 oft' and mix it with enough olive oil to 
 form a thick cream, or rather to the 
 consistency of melted and recongealed 
 butter. Grease the articles of iron or j 
 steel with this compound, and then ! 
 wrap them up in paper, or if this can- 
 not be done apply the mixture some- 
 what thicker. 
 
 Cleaning Guns with Petroleum. 
 Cleansing a weapon with fats and oils 
 does not entirely protect it from rust ; j 
 the so-called drying oils get gummy j 
 and resinous, while the non-drying oils ! 
 become rancid, and by exposure to the | 
 air acids are formed, and these attack 
 the iron. For these reasons petroleum 
 is to be preferred for this purpose. 
 Petroleum is as great an enemy to 
 water as are the fatty oils, and hence, 
 when a gun-barrel is covered with a 
 film of petroleum, it keeps the water 
 away from the metal. The water rest- 
 ing upon this film evaporates, but the 
 oil does not, and hence no rust can be 
 formed. It is very essential, however, 
 that the petroleum employed be per- 
 fectly pure, for impure oil, such as is 
 often met with in commerce, attacks 
 the metal. Care must also be taken 
 not to allow it to come in contact with 
 the polished stock. When about to 
 clean a gun some tow is wrapped 
 around the ramrod and enough petro- 
 leum poured upon it to thoroughly 
 moisten it ; it is then pushed in a rotary 
 'manner through the barrel and back a 
 dozen times, and the tow taken out and 
 unrolled, and the upper and lower ends 
 of the barrel rubbed with the clean 
 part, after which it is thrown away. 
 This removes the coarser portion of the 
 dirt. A round brush of stiff bristles 
 and fitting the barrel is now screwed to 
 the ramrod, then moistened thoroughly 
 with petroleum and twisted into the 
 barrel, running it back and forth at 
 least a dozen times, thus loosening the 
 dirt that is more firmly attached to it. 
 The first operation is now repeated, ex- 
 cept that the tow on the ramrod is left 
 dry, and the rubbing with this must be 
 continued in all directions as long as it 
 
 comes out soiled. The use of wire 
 brushes is objectionable for cleaning 
 guns, as the numerous steel points cut 
 into the tube. Only soft tow, hemp, 
 woollen rags, or the like should be 
 used, as the petroleum dissolves the 
 dirt sufficiently. 
 
 To Protect Wrought-iron Bridges 
 from JKust. The following process was 
 observed in painting the Britannia 
 bridge across the Menai Strait in Ao)-(/i 
 Wales. All of the iron work was 
 scraped and rubbed with wire and 
 still bristle brushes until the surface 
 acquired a metallic lustre. The holes, 
 joints, and cracks were carefully 
 cleaned and filled with red or white 
 lead putty, and when dry the whole 
 was brushed again and the bridge 
 painted with 4 coats of the following 
 paint at intervals of 8 to 14 days : Pure 
 white lead 560 parts, crude linseed oil 
 133 parts, boiled linseed oil (without an 
 addition of litharge) 18 to 36 parts, and 
 spirit of turpentine 18 parts. 
 
 After the fourth coat had been ap- 
 plied the whole was sanded with fine 
 white sand. To the paint for the last 
 coat enough Berlin blue had been added 
 to give it a light grayish tint. 
 
 The parts of the bridge not exposed 
 to view received, after thorough scrap- 
 ing and puttying up, 3 to 4 coats of a 
 varnish obtained by mixing 8 parts of 
 gas-tar, 1 of spirit of turpentine, and 2 
 of pulverized lime. 
 
 Staining Metals. The following re- 
 ceipts have all been tested in the labora- 
 tory of Dr. Winckler by a practical 
 armorer and given excellent results: 
 
 Blue Stain on Iron and Steel. Polish 
 and cleanse the steel thoroughly with 
 lime, and then brush it over with the 
 following mixture : Butter of antimony 
 8 parts, fuming nitric acid 8 parts, and 
 muriatic acid 16 parts. Add the spirit 
 of salt very slowly and drop by drop, 
 to avoid too strong heating. Apply the 
 mixture to the steel with a rag, and rub 
 it with green, young oak wood until the 
 desired blue color is produced. 
 
 Gray on Steel and Iron. Polish the 
 steel and coat it with a mixture of but- 
 ter of antimony 8 parts and sulphuric 
 acid 2 parts. If the color does not 
 turn out handsome enough, add a few 
 drops of empyreumatic pyroligneoua 
 acid or gallic acid. 
 
244 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Black, Mis: 8 parts of butter of anti- 
 mony, 4 parts of sulphuric acid, and 2 
 parts of empyreuraatic pyroligneous 
 acid, or gallic acid. Apply several 
 coats of the mixture to the polished 
 steel until it is black enough. 
 
 To /Stain Iron, Gun -barrels, etc., 
 Brown. Mix 16 parts of sweet spirit of 
 nitre, 12 parts of a solution of sulphate 
 of iron, a like quantity of butter of anti- 
 mony, and l(j parts of sulphate of cop- 
 per. Let the mixture stand in a well- 
 corked bottle in a moderately warm 
 place for 24 hours, then add 500 parts 
 of rain water, and put it away for use. 
 
 After the barrel has been rubbed with 
 emery paper and polished, wash it with 
 fresh lime-water, dry it thoroughly, and 
 then coat it over uniformly with the 
 above mixture; it is best t> use a tuft 
 of cotton ; let it dry for 24 hours, and 
 then brush it with a scratch brush. 
 Repeat the coating and drying twice, 
 but in rubbing off for the last time use 
 leather moistened with olive oil in place 
 of the scratch brush, and rub until a 
 beautiful lustre is produced; then let 
 it dry for 12 hours and repeat the polish- 
 ing with olive oil. 
 
 English Process of Staining Gun-bar- 
 rels Brown. Mix 33 parts of pulverized 
 sulphate of copper, 25 parts of subli- 
 mate, 28 parts each of sweet spirit of 
 nitre and tincture of steel, and 500 parts 
 of rain water. 
 
 Rub up first the spirit of nitre with 
 the sublimate, then add the other in- 
 gredients, let it stand in a well-closed 
 bottle in a warm place for 12 hours, 
 then add the water and treat the barrel 
 in the same manner as above, but wash 
 it off every time after brushing with the 
 scratch brush. After repeating this 3 
 times, polish the barrel with leather 
 moistened with olive oil mixed with 
 some oil of turpentine, then dry it for 
 12 hours, and finally polish with oil. 
 
 Light Brown. Mix 4 parts each of 
 butter of antimony and ordinary butter 
 and 10 to 12 drops of olive oil ; heat the 
 mixture in a flask and then brush it 
 uniformly over the barrel, previously 
 cleansed and polished; hold the barrel 
 over a moderate coal fire, when a beauti- 
 ful brown will soon make its appear- 
 ance ; then polish with olive oil, and 
 finally give it a light coat of good amber 
 lacquer compounded with some shellac. 
 
 Light Yellowish -brown. Mix 32 
 parts of spirit of wine and 16 parts each 
 of sulphate of copper, tincture of steel, 
 and nitric acid and, when all are dis- 
 solved, add 375 parts of rain water. 
 After polishing the barrel and cleans- 
 ing it with fresh lime-water, brush it 
 over uniformly with the mixture, let 
 it dry in an airy room, and then wash 
 it off with a brush dipped in boiling 
 water. Repeat this twice, and then 
 coat the barrel with a lacquer prepared 
 by mixing 1 part of amber varnish, 2 
 , of copal varnish, i of shellac varnish, 
 | and 1 of linseed-oil varnish. Should 
 the lacquer be too viscid, dilute it with 
 some oil of turpentine. As soon as the 
 lacquer is dry polish the barrel first 
 i with beech charcoal and then with a 
 piece of hat felt. 
 
 Lacquering of Sheet Metal. A good 
 copal lacquer is required for the work. 
 j It is prepared as follows : Coat a glazed 
 pot outside with a layer of potters' clay 
 5 inches thick, and the bottom with onel 
 inch thick. Let it dry, and then place 
 in the pot 500 parts of copal in small 
 pieces, and 100 parts of Venetian tur- 
 pentine, and melt the mixture over a 
 moderate coal fire for J hour, stirring 
 it frequently. Then add in small por- 
 tions at a time, and stirring constantly, 
 166 parts of hot linseed-oil varnish, and 
 finally pour into the mixture, stirring 
 constantly, 1000 parts of oil of turpen- 
 tine. Then filter the lacquer and keep 
 it in well-closed flasks. 
 
 Sheet metal to be lacquered must first 
 be provided with a ground of oil paint. 
 For the first ground take some good 
 linseed-oil varnish, some oil of turpen- 
 tine, and a little copal lacquer, and any 
 | desired pigment. If the sheet is, for 
 j instance, to be crimson, grind cinnabar 
 in the above mixture, lay a coat of the 
 paint on the metal, and bake it in the 
 lacquering oven until it is hard and 
 dry ; then apply 3 or 4 more coats, and 
 dry them in the same manner. Then 
 rub the paint with shave-grass, next 
 with finely-pulverized pumice-stone, 
 and finally with a moist piece of felt, 
 and then glaze the article. 
 
 For Glazing rub up fine Florentine 
 or Vienna lake in good linseed-oil var- 
 nish and a little oil of turpentine; di- 
 lute it with copal lacquer, and apply 5 
 to 6 coats of it, allowing each coat to 
 
MUSTARDS. 
 
 245 
 
 dry thoroughly before laying on the [ 
 next. When the last coat is dry, rub ; 
 it smooth, first with a moist linen cloth 
 dipped in pulverized pumice-stone, and j 
 finish with a piece of chamois and pre- ' 
 pared buck's horn, and finally put the \ 
 article in the lacquering oven heated to 
 97 F. 
 
 This mode of treatment is the same 
 for all color mixtures. 
 
 Green. Schweiafurt-green. This re- 
 quires no glaze. 
 
 Yellow. Use chrome yellow. 
 
 Blue is obtained by mixing Parisian 
 blue with some Venetian white. 
 
 Chamois, by mixing cinnabar, red j 
 lead, chrome yellow, and some Venetian 
 white. 
 
 R<'d-brown. Take calcined lamp- 
 black and cinnabar. 
 
 White Lac Color. Rub up very fine 
 Kremnitz white in oil of turpentine, j 
 dilute it with good white copal lacquer, j 
 and dry it in the sun or in the air, as i 
 the color turns yellow if dried by the ' 
 heat of a stove. 
 
 Lilac or Violet. Mix fine Vienna 
 lake, Venetian white, and a little Paris- 
 ian blue. 
 
 Black Lacquer. Boil on a moderate 
 fire for 4 hours 250 parts of a>phal- 
 tum in 125 parts of linseed-oil varnish; 
 mix the compound with 66 parts of cal- 
 cined lampblack, rubbed up in oil of 
 turpentine, and dilute the mixture with 
 oil of turpentine. 
 
 Blue or Steel Glaze. Rub fine Paris- 
 ian blue in good linseed-oil varnish, 
 and dilute with copal lacquer. Apply 
 3 to 4 coats of this to a tin plate, which 
 will thereby acquire a blue-steel color. 
 
 Red Glaze. Rub fine Vienna or 
 Florentine lake in linseed-oil varnish 
 and dilute with copal lacquer. Apply 
 3 to 4 coats of it to a tin plate or bright 
 sheet iron, which acquires thereby a 
 beautiful transparent color. 
 
 MUSTARDS. 
 
 To Prepare Ordinary Mustard. I. 
 Stir gradually 1 pint of good white 
 wine into 8 ounces of ground mustard 
 seed, add a pinch of pulverized cloves, 
 and let the whole boil over a moderate 
 coal fire. Then add a small lump of 
 white sugar and let the mixture boil 
 up once more. 
 
 II. Pour i pint of boiling wine vine- 
 gar over 8 ounces of ground mustard 
 seed in an earthen pot, stir the mixture 
 thoroughly, then add some cold vine- 
 gar, and let the pot stand over night in 
 a warm place. The next morning add 
 i pound of sugar, f drachm of pulver- 
 ized cinnamon, drachm of pulverized 
 cloves, U drachms of Jamaica pepper, 
 some cardamon, nutmeg, half the rind 
 of a lemon, and the necessary quantity 
 of vinegar. The mustard is now ready 
 and is kept in pots tied up with bladder. 
 
 III. Pound in a mortar the flesh of 
 a salt herring and 2 ounces of capers 
 to a paste, and mix this with 2 ounces 
 of pulverized white sugar and 13 
 ounces of ground mustard seed ; then 
 pour If pints of boiling wine vinegar 
 over it, stir, and let the whole stand 
 near a fire for several hours. Finally, 
 add | pint of boiling vinegar, stir thor- 
 oughly, and pour the mustard into 
 glass bottles. 
 
 IV. Mix 8 ounces of ground mustard 
 seed with \\ pints of good, cold vinegar, 
 heat the mixture over a moderate "fire 
 for 1 hour, add 1 drachm of ground 
 Jamaica pepper, and when cold keep 
 it in well-closed jars. 
 
 V. Cut up a medium-sized onion, 
 pour 1 pints of good wine vinegar over 
 it, let it stand for a few days, strain the 
 vinegar off and pour it over 8 ounces 
 of mustard seed, and let this stand for 
 12 hours. The mustard seed, is then 
 ground and mixed with the following 
 ingredients : One-half drachm of finely- 
 powdered cloves, J drachm of pulver- 
 ized cardamons, a like quantity of 
 grated nutmeg, and 1 ounce of pulver- 
 ized white sugar. 
 
 Frankfort Mustard. Mix 1 pound 
 of white mustard seed, ground, a like 
 quantity of brown mustard seed, 8 
 ounces of pulverized loaf sugar, 1 ounce 
 of pulverized cloves, 2 ounces of 
 allspice, and compound the mixture 
 with white wine or wine vinegar. 
 
 Wine Mustard. Com pound very fi ne 
 black mustard in powder with & of its 
 quantity of must, which has been 
 previously boiled down to a thickly- 
 fluid paste in a tin boiler. 
 
 Loiormaud's Method of Preparing 
 Mustard. Mix with 2 pounds of ground 
 mustard seed, \ ounce each of fresh 
 parsley and tarragon, both cut up fine, 
 
246 
 
 TECHNO-CIIEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 1 clove of garlic also cut up very fine, 
 and 12 salted anchovies; grind the mixt- 
 ure very fine, add the required must 
 and 1 ounce of pulverized salt, and for 
 further grinding dilute with water. To 
 evaporate the water, after grinding the 
 mustard, heat an iron rod red hot and 
 cool it off in the mixture, and then add 
 wine vinegar of the best quality. 
 
 Moutarde de Maille. Cut up 8 
 ounces of fresh tarragon leaves without 
 the stems, 2V ounces of basil, 2 ounces 
 of bay leaves, and 4 ounces of rocam- 
 bole. Place the ingredients in a glass 
 alembic, pour 2i quarts of strong wine 
 vinegar over them, and, to allow the 
 vapors to escape, tie up the mouth of 
 the alembic with a piece of perforated 
 moist bladder. Place the alembic upon 
 hot sand for 4 days, then filter the fluid 
 first through linen and then through 
 blotting-paper. Add to this aromatic 
 vinegar 1 ounce of common salt, then 
 stir it into a thick paste with ground 
 black mustard seed, and keep the mus- 
 tard in earthen jars. 
 
 Mouturde d la Rav'iaotte. Cut up 12 
 parts of fresh tarragon leaves, 6 of fresh 
 bay leaves, 4 of fresh angelica root, 8 
 of capers, 8 of anchovies, 6 of rocam- 
 bole, and 4 of eschalots, and digest 
 them in 200 parts of strong wine vine- 
 gar ; then strain the fluid, press out the 
 residue, filter the fluid again, and stir 
 in ground black mustard seed to the 
 consistency of a thin paste. 
 
 Sour Dusseldorf Mustard. Fill 2 
 barrels with vinegar; steep in one of 
 the barrels 2 pounds of origan leaves 
 and in the other an ordinary bucketful 
 of onions cut up, and let them digest 
 for 2 days. Then bruise 44 pounds of 
 white mustard seed and 66 pounds of 
 black mustard seed ; put this in a vat 
 and add 1 pound ptilverized cloves, 
 H pounds of pulverized coriander seeds, 
 and 4-V gallons of each of the prepared 
 vinegars. Stir the whole thoroughly 
 and grind it twice in a mill. To every 
 gallon of this acid and mix thoroughly 
 with it 1 pound of salt dissolved in 1 
 quart of the onion vinegar. 
 
 /Soye's Method of Preparing Mustard. 
 I. Steep 4 quarts of mustard seed for 8 
 days in a mixture of 1 gallon of wood 
 vinegar and a like quantity of water; 
 stir it several times daily and then 
 grind it. 
 
 II. Aromatic Mustard. Cut up 8 
 ounces each of parsley, cheroil ( Chacro- 
 phyllum sativum), and celery, steep 
 them for 2 weeks in wood vinegar, 
 then grind the mixture, and add 10 
 quarts of ground mustard seed and 8 
 ounces of pulverized sea salt. On the 
 other hand, pulverize and mix 1 pound 
 each of cinnamon, cloves, nutmegs, and 
 allspice, sift the powder and mix it with 
 the mustard, together with 40 drops of 
 essence of thyme and 30 drops each of 
 essence of cinnamon and essence of 
 tarragon, diluted with some vinegar 
 poured from the first mixture. 
 
 III. English Mustard consists of 9 
 pounds of ground mustard seed, 9 
 ounces of wheat flour, 1J pounds of 
 common salt, 2J ounces of Cayenne 
 pepper, and as much water and vine- 
 gar as required. 
 
 Black Mustard Powder. Mix 10 
 parts of ground black mustard and J 
 of rocambole rubbed very fine, and add 
 3*5 of salt. 
 
 Compound Mustard Founder. Mix 
 10 parts of ground white mustard and 
 i of rocambole rubbed very fine. 
 
 Compound English Mustard Powder. 
 Pulverize and mix 2 pounds of mustard 
 seed, 1 ounces of dried rocambole, $ 
 ounce each of marjoram, thyme, and 
 garden sage, i ounce each of tarragon 
 and cinnamon, J drachm each of 
 ginger, cloves, and fennel seed, and 8 
 ounces of dried common salt, and keep 
 the powder in well-closed bottles. 
 
 Compound Black Mustard Powder. 
 Pulverize and mix 20 parts of ground 
 black mustard seed, 3 of common salt, 
 1 each of tarragon, thyme, and rocam- 
 bole, and 4 of pulverized sugar. 
 
 Very Fine Table Mustard. Digest 
 If ounces of fresh tarragon leaves, 2 
 bay leaves, 1 lemon (juice and rind), 
 \ drachm each of cloves and cinnamon, 
 I drachm of black pepper, ounce of 
 dill, and 1 onion in 4 gallon of good 
 vinegar. It is best to use a steam ap- 
 paratus for the purpose. Then strain 
 the fluid into a porcelain vessel, and, 
 while it is yet warm, mix with it 1 
 poiind of ground black mustard seed 
 and a like quantity of white mustard, 
 and 1 pound of sugar and 3A ounces of 
 common salt. Let the whole digest, 
 stirring it frequently, until the mustard 
 has lost some of its sharpness by the 
 
OILS AND FATS. 
 
 247 
 
 evaporation of the ethereal oil, aiid then 
 dilute, according to taste, with more or 
 less vinegar. 
 
 OILS AND FATS ANIMAL, VEGETA- 
 BLE, AND MINERAL 
 
 Purification of Mineral Oils. To re- 
 move the disagreeable odor of mineral 
 oils, the following process may be 
 used : Prepare a saturated solution 
 of potassium hyposulphite and caustic 
 soda in alcohol, and pour this, with 
 constant stirring, into the mineral oil to 
 be cleansed. The quantity of solution 
 varies between 5 and 9 percent., accord- 
 ing to the condition of the oil. After 
 the mixture has been allowed to settle 
 by standing, the oil is drawn off the 
 sediment, which is mostly of a dark 
 color, into another mixing vessel, and 
 again compounded with lye. 
 
 Residues in the }fannfai-tnre of Shale 
 Oil serve for the manufacture of alum 
 and contain considerable quantities of 
 lithium. The acid, tarry matters con- 
 tain sulphates of the pyridine series, 
 especially coridine, rubidine, and viri- 
 dine. Aniline does not seem to be 
 present. The insoluble parts and alka- 
 line tars contain principally phenols 
 and thymols, but no ordinary phenylic 
 acid. 
 
 French Process of Cleansing Vegeta- 
 ble Fat Oils. A. boiler with a larger 
 diameter at the top than on the bottom 
 and provided with a cover is filled half 
 full with oil, which is brought to a 
 gentle boil. To each 30 gallons of oil 
 are added 2 ounces of minium, pre- 
 viously stirred, for better distribution, 
 into a thin paste with some of the oil. 
 As soon as a strong froth is formed and 
 green flakes are separated the boiler 
 is taken from the fire and placed in the 
 open air to cool off. Special care must 
 be had not to neglect this moment, 
 as otherwise a decomposition of the oil 
 into sebacic acids and glycerine might 
 easily occur. 
 
 Manufacture of Castor-oil. The fol- 
 lowing process i's in use in the Belle- 
 ville Oil Works of Brosius & Co. The 
 seeds, after they have been cleansed 
 from adhering dust and other impuri- 
 ties, are brought into iron tanks and 
 gently heated, care being had to pre- 
 
 vent roasting, since the only object of 
 this operation is to make the oil more 
 fluid for pressing. The pressing itself 
 is accomplished by means of hydraulic 
 presses, each provided with a number 
 of movable plates and a cylinder. As 
 soon as the cylinder is filled and the 
 plates have been put in position the 
 pressing commences. The oil first 
 pressed out runs into a large reservoir. 
 The pressed seeds are thrown together 
 in a pile, and remain there for one day, 
 when they are again heated in an iron 
 tank, brought into the cylinder and 
 pressed. This gives a second quality 
 of oil, which is used as a lubricant for 
 machinery. Part of the press cakes 
 is used as fuel in the manufactory, 
 the other part is sent East, where, 
 in connection with other materials, 
 it is used in the manufacture of man- 
 ures. 
 
 Baeder, Adamson & Co., of Phila- 
 delphia, employ bisulphide of car- 
 bon for extracting the press-cakes, 
 gaining thereby a dark, thick fluid. 
 The process is similar to that used in 
 France with alcohol, but the product 
 is a very ordinary burning oil smelling 
 of bisulphide of carbon. The oil pre- 
 pared by the Belleville process is called 
 cold-pressed, and is without doubt 
 much better than that gained by other 
 methods where more heat is employed. 
 The product of the two iressings is 
 about 16 pounds, or 2 gallons per H 
 bushels of beans. A third pressing has 
 been tried, but it did not pay, as the 
 gain was but 1 to 3 pounds from 1 
 bushels of beans, and the oil more 
 colored. The process of purifying and 
 clarifying the oil varies in different 
 manufactories, the principal point being 
 not to expose the oil to the air for too 
 long a time, as it is apt to become 
 rancid. The oil first pressed out is 
 clear white, or rather colorless, resem- 
 bling water; while the second is yel- 
 lowish, resembling syrup of squills. 
 Castor-oil can be mixed with radical 
 vinegar and absolute alcohol in all 
 proportions without the aid of any 
 other agent. It is soluble in 4 parts 
 of alcohol of 0.835 or 0.850 specific 
 gravity at 60 F., and mixes without 
 becoming turbid with equal parts of 
 the same solvent at 77 F. It has a 
 specific gravity of 0.97 to 0.98, congeals 
 
248 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 at 8.6 to 10.4 F., and becomes solid 
 at 40 F. 
 
 Manufacture of Neat's - foot, Oil. 
 The feet of about 100 wethers are placed 
 in a tank and heated by steam for a few 
 hours to 165 or 175 F. When the 
 woolly hair can be removed the tank 
 is emptied, the feet scraped off, and the 
 claws removed. The feet thus cleansed 
 are tied together in bundles of 18 each, 
 and boiled until the oil contained in 
 them is gained, while the half-boiled 
 feet themselves are brought into com- 
 merce ; 100 to 125 of these bundles are 
 boiled at a time. The yield of fat 
 varies very much, amounting to 1J to 
 3 pints from 100 wethers. The feet of 
 animals, having travelled long dis- 
 tances before being killed, give only 
 traces of oil. After having been boiled 
 the feet are at once thrown into a cur- 
 rent of cold water and, when cold, are 
 ready for the market. The oil has a 
 specific weight of 0.915; it is of a 
 transparent gray color, becomes clear 
 by standing or filtration, and is then 
 very pah; yellow. More than 75 per 
 cent, of commercial neat's foot oil con- 
 tain other fats. 
 
 To Prepare Chinese Drying Oil. A 
 funnel very narrow on the lower end 
 is filled with animal charcoal purified 
 with hydrochloric acid, and converted 
 into a coarse and uniform powder, and 
 old linseed oil filtered through this. 
 The filtered oil is brought into large 
 leaden pans, upon the bottom of each 
 is placed crystallized basic acetate of 
 lead, minium, and borate of protoxide 
 of manganese. The mixture is exposed 
 to the light of the sun, the pan being 
 covered with a glass plate. The pan 
 is then heated to 248 F., and a current 
 of air, heated to 250 F. and containing 
 16 per cent, of steam, is passed through 
 it for 6 hours. The linseed oil thus 
 prepared is put in flat tin cans, which 
 are placed in a closed cylinder of sheet 
 iren in rows one above the other in 
 such a manner as to allow space for 
 the circulation of air. In the upper 
 part of the cylinder is placed a wide- 
 necked flask* filled I full with chloro- 
 form, 1 pound of chloroform being re- 
 quired for 27.5 pounds of prepared 
 linseed oil. A current of air heated to 
 212 F. is introduced beneath the cover 
 of the cylinder, and passes out through 
 
 a clack valve, which can be regulated 
 near the foot of the cylinder. In about 
 8 to 10 hours the oil is converted into 
 a thick, tenacious mass, \yhich passes 
 then through the following process: 
 American oil of turpentine is heated 
 in a closed boiler to 572 F., 10 per 
 cent, of absolute alcohol is added, and 
 a like quantity of the prepared oil dis- 
 solved in this mixture at 212 F. The 
 solution, which is at first yellowish and 
 turbid, is put in a cylindrical vessel of 
 rheet iron and allowed to clarify at a 
 lower temperature. By mixing a small 
 quantity of this drying oil with linseed 
 oil or oil paints, it imparts to them the 
 best drying qualities, and, after stand- 
 ing for some time, expels from the dry- 
 ing oils all vegetable gum. Mixed 
 with linseed oil, a varnish of a straw 
 color is obtained which dries in 18 to 
 24 hours, and leaves behind a tenacious 
 elastic coating. 
 
 To Solidify Petroleum find other 
 Mineral Oils. Mosses containing lich- 
 enine and other pectine substances, 
 for instance Japanese moss, are lixivi- 
 ated with hot water, and the lye ob- 
 tained is intimately mixed with the 
 petroleum or other oil. The com- 
 pound, which becomes thick and even 
 solid, can be easily transported. By 
 adding alkali and faltering, or pressing, 
 the petroleum is regained in a fluid 
 state. 
 
 Rosin Oil and its Uses. Rosin oil, 
 recently brought into commerce, is a 
 product of the dry distillation of rosin. 
 It has a disagreeable odor resembling 
 that of wood tar, and a blueish mother- 
 of-pearl lustre. The apparatus used in 
 gaining it consists of an iron pot, a 
 head piece, a condenser, and a receiver. 
 In the distillation a light oil passes 
 over first, together with water. As 
 soon as the flow of the distillate ceases, 
 the receiver is changed, and the heat 
 raised, when a red-colored and heavy 
 rosin oil passes over. The black resi- 
 due remaining in the pot is used as a 
 pitch. The light oil, called pinoline, 
 is rectified, and the acetic acid water 
 passing over with it is saturated with 
 calcium hydrate, filtered and evapo- 
 rated to dryness ; the calcium acetate 
 obtained being employed in the manu- 
 facture of acetic acid. The rosin oil 
 obtained after the light oil has passed 
 
OILS AND FATS, 
 
 249 
 
 over, is called blue rosin oil, on account 
 of its dark violet - blue color. The 
 red oil is boiled for a day with water, 
 the water lost by evaporation being 
 replaced by fresh; the next day the 
 water is drawn off and the remaining 
 rosin oil saponified with caustic lye of 
 36 Beaume, and the resulting almost 
 solid mass distilled so long as oil passes 
 over. The product obtained is recti- 
 fied rosin oil, which is allowed to stand 
 in iron vessels, protected by a thiu 
 layer of gypsum, whereby, after a few 
 weeks, a perfectly clear oil is obtained 
 free from water. Oil of the first qual- 
 ity is obtained by a repetition of the 
 foregoing operation upon the once rec- 
 tified oil. The residues of both opera- 
 tions are melted up with the pitch. 
 (See also Lubricants.) 
 
 To Prepare Pure Naphthaline. White 
 naphthaline, on exposure to the air, 
 changes its color. This can be rem- 
 edied by repeated recrystallizing, wash- 
 ing, and distilling, and hence a perma- 
 nent white color may serve as a cri- 
 terion of its purity. As naphthaline is 
 gained from coal-tar compounded with 
 alkali to produce phenole, it is first 
 treated with 5 to 10 per cent, of sul- 
 phuric acid of 1.85 specific gravity. As 
 soon as the mixture is complete, 5 per 
 cent, of the weight of the naphthaline 
 of manganese dioxide is added, or 
 natural pyrolusite may also be used. 
 The mixture is heated on a water-bath 
 for 15 to 20 minutes until no further re- 
 action takes place, and, to remove the 
 acid, is then washed with hot water, 
 next with weak solution of sodium 
 hydrate, and again with water. The 
 mass is then distilled and all passes over 
 at 1 to 2 degrees below the boiling point 
 of pure naphthaline. A sample of 
 naphthaline prepared in this simple 
 and cheap manner remained clear for 8 
 to 9 months, while the ordinary com- 
 mercial samples obtained from reliable 
 firms lost their color long before that 
 time. 
 
 Vaseline or Cosmoline. The prin- 
 cipal point in the manufacture of vase- 
 line or cosmoline is to free the raw 
 materials, consisting either of natural 
 mineral tar (soft native bitumen) or 
 the residues of petroleum, from all 
 adhering impurities and easily decom- 
 posable substances, and to decolorize 
 
 them at the same time as much as pos- 
 sible. The mineral taj from Alsace 
 and Galicia, and petroleum residues in 
 the United States, are the principal raw 
 materials used. They are of a semi-fluid 
 to pasty consistency, and according to 
 their condition the resulting vaseline 
 will be more or less consistent. 
 
 The raw material is cleansed and de- 
 colorized by treating it with sulphuric 
 acid and chromate of potassium, and 
 subsequent digesting with animal char- 
 coal. We give in the following a de- 
 scription of the processes used : 
 
 The raw materials are converted into 
 a fluid state and passed, after all the 
 soluble substances have been separated, 
 through a series of carbon filters, such 
 as are used in sugar refineries. 
 
 After passing through 12 to 15 filters, 
 the originally black-brown fluid as- 
 sumes a wine-yellow color, and by 
 passing through double the number of 
 filters becomes clear as water. The 
 clear fluid, the specific gravity of which 
 decreases as it becomes lighter in color, 
 containing now no trace of bituminous 
 substances, is brought into the dupli- 
 cator, into which superheated steam is 
 passed, the temperature being raised to 
 480. F. Samples taken occasionally 
 from the boiler must show no changes 
 in the oil after this temperature has 
 been kept up for several hours. The 
 steam is then shut off and the finished 
 vaseline (about 25 to 30 per cent, of the 
 raw material) is filtered through tissue 
 paper and packed in boxes for trans- 
 port. 
 
 The greatest disadvantage of this 
 process is, that the animal charcoal is 
 very rapidly exhausted and is only 
 able to decolorize a small percentage 
 of its own weight of vaseline; expensive 
 arrangements being therefore required 
 to extract the solution adhering to the 
 charcoal and revivifying the latter by 
 means of superheated steam of 750 to 
 930 F. But the quality of this vase- 
 line is very good, its color being a pure 
 white like the best white tallow. It is 
 entirely tasteless, odorless, not only 
 when rubbed upon the hand, but also 
 when melted in water ; the latter prop- 
 erty distinguishing it from all other 
 varieties of vaseline, which, on melting 
 in water, develop a faint odor of pet'-o- 
 leum. Vaseline when melted gives an 
 
250 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 entirely clear and colorless fluid, recon- 
 gealing into a homogeneous, non-crys- 
 talline mass. 
 
 Cold 98 per cent, alcohol dissolves 
 2.2 per cent, of vaseline. The evapor- 
 ated residue from an alcoholic solution 
 is liquid at an ordinary temperature. 
 It cannot be saponified ; it is therefore 
 neither a fat nor a resin. 
 
 Hot alcohol dissolves it completely 
 and gives a clear solution, the vaseline, 
 on cooling, separating in flakes. 
 
 To potash-lye vaseline is entirely in- 
 different. If, after boiling for some 
 time, the lye is poured off from the 
 vaseline and acidulated, it remains 
 entirely clear, no opalizing nor separa- 
 tion of flakes taking place. 
 
 Sulphuric acid of 1.60 specific gravity 
 and nitric acid of 1.185 specific gravity 
 do not change vaseline if boiled with 
 them. Fuming nitric acid colors it 
 yellow-red, sulphuric acid of 1.82 
 specific gravity blackish-gray, the acid 
 itself becoming yellow-bro\vu. 
 
 When heated in a platinum dish, 
 vaseline is completely consumed and 
 leaves no residue. Its specific gravity 
 is 0.848. 
 
 New Process of Purifying Paraffine. 
 The paraffine, which was formerly 
 pressed, is brought into an ordinary 
 still, and the oily substances expelled 
 by means of superheated steam. They 
 <re drawn off through a cock near the 
 bottom of the apparatus. The paraf- 
 fine is then clarified in the ordinary 
 manner. By this process pressing is 
 avoided, and paraffine melting only at 
 158 F. is obtained. The oils obtained 
 as by-products are very uniform and 
 good. 
 
 To Purify and Bleach Fat of Bones 
 extracted with Benzine, and make it 
 available for the Manufacture of Soap. 
 The principal difficulties preventing 
 the utilization of fat of bones in the 
 manufacture of soap are : 
 
 1. That the odor of benzine does not 
 entirely disappear even during saponi- 
 fication. 
 
 2. The fat assumes a dark and fre- 
 quently brown color. 
 
 3. Soap manufactured from it is dif- 
 ficult to free from salt. 
 
 In most cases these evils are removed 
 by passing steam through the hot fat 
 for 6 to 8 hours, or where no steam can 
 
 be had. boiling it with equal parts of 
 water for the same length of time. 
 
 But this simple manipulation does 
 not always suffice, as it frequently re- 
 moves the odor of benzine only partly, 
 and does not free the fat from the dis- 
 solved glue and the dark color. To do 
 this satisfactorily boil 100 pounds of fat 
 for 6 to 8 hours with an equal quantity 
 of water in which 2i pounds of chloride 
 of zinc have been dissolved. The chlo- 
 ride of zinc dissolves the mucous parts 
 of the fat without attacking it, and 
 separates them from the coloring mat- 
 ter, whereby the fat not only becomes 
 clear, but acquires also a lighter color. 
 Should the fat, after being treated in 
 this manner, require further bleaching, 
 it is subjected to the following process: 
 Heat the fat to 167 F., and add, with 
 constant stirring, to every 100 pounds 
 of fat 2 pounds of caustic soda-lye of 
 34 to 35 Beaume, and 1 pound of salt 
 previously dissolved in some water, and 
 then let it stand quietly. The traces of 
 impurities and glutinous matter still 
 adhering to the fat are absorbed by the 
 lye and precipitated. The clear fat is 
 then poured into a vat of soft wood and 
 cooled to 105 F. The bleaching liquors, 
 having been prepared in the meanwhile 
 by dissolving for every 100 pounds of 
 fat V pound of bichromate of potassium in 
 H pounds of boiling water and mixing 
 this with 2 pounds of fuming hydro- 
 chloric acid, are then poured slowly 
 and with constant stirring into the oil 
 at the above temperature. The oil, in 
 about 15 minutes, will assume a dark- 
 green color, which, with uninterrupted 
 stirring, becomes lighter and lighter 
 until it disappears entirely, and the fat 
 acquires a yellowish tint. When a 
 sample taken occasionally from the vat 
 shows no essential changes the bleach- 
 ing process may be considered finished, 
 and it only remains to wash the fat by 
 means of a watering-pot, using about 
 10 to 12 pounds of water for every 100 
 pounds of fat. 
 
 Process of Gaining Glycerine. The 
 following process is used for extracting 
 glycerine from soap-boiler's lye con- 
 taining salts : The lyes are neutralized 
 and evaporated as much as possible. 
 A large part of the salts is separated in 
 solid form ; this is removed and washed 
 with neutralized lye. The fluid con- 
 
OILS AND FATS. 
 
 251 
 
 taining the glycerine is again evapo- 
 rated and compounded with such a quan- 
 tity of oJeic acid or of trioleius, as oil, 
 tallow, lard, etc., that the mixture con- 
 tains to every molecule of glycerine 
 somewhat more than 1 molecule of 
 pleic or sebacic acid. The compound 
 is first heated in a still to 338 F. by 
 steam, and then gradually to 392 F., 
 whereby the air may be excluded by 
 introducing carbonic acid. A still pro- 
 vided with a stirring apparatus is used. 
 Water escapes, which may be partly 
 present as such and is partly liberated 
 as a decomposition product. Thenion- 
 oleiu thus formed is saponified with 
 lime. A solution of glycerine in water 
 is obtained from which commercial 
 glycerine is gained by evaporation. A 
 lane soap is also produced which, after 
 having been freed from acid, may be 
 again used. 
 
 Corn Oil from Corn Mash. The day 
 before the mash is to be distilled, the 
 oil is skimmed from the surface with a 
 sheet-iron skimmer and poured through 
 a fine sieve into a wooden vat having a 
 capacity of 44 gallons. When the vat 
 is i full of oil it is filled up with hot 
 water, and the mixture, after being 
 thoroughly stirred, is filtered through 
 linen into another vat provided with 
 2 cocks, 1 near the bottom for draw- 
 ing oft' the water, and the other about 
 5 inches higher un for the oil. After 
 the filtrate has stood for a few hours, 
 and the water has separated from the 
 oil, the latter is carefully drawn off. 
 If it is to be quite clear and transpar- 
 ent, it is poured into a glass balloon and 
 exposed to the rays of the sun, when, 
 after the slimy precipitate which is 
 formed has settled, the clear oil is 
 poured off. The oil may be used for 
 illuminating and lubricating purposes. 
 
 Oil from Acid Tar. Good oil 
 suitable for lubricating purposes and 
 as a substitute for linseed oil in the 
 manufacture of printing-inks may be 
 obtained from the acid tar of oil re- 
 fineries by diluting it with benzine, 
 then separating the acid by repeated 
 washings, distilling, and next treating 
 with milk of chloride of lime at a 
 temperature not exceeding 140 F. 
 After the oil has been thus treated the 
 limy sediment is drawn off and a 
 caustic or carbonated alkali introduced 
 
 to neutralize any of the remaining 
 chlorides or chlorine. The alkaline 
 sediment is next drawn off, and, after 
 the oil has been again washed with 
 water, the process is finished. 
 
 To Refine Cotton-seed Oil. One hun- 
 t dred gallons of the crude oil are placed 
 in a tank and 3 gallons of caustic 
 lye of 45 Beaume gradually added 
 and well stirred for several hours; 
 or the same quantity of oil is treated 
 with about 6 gallons of soda-lye of 25 
 to 30 Beaume, and heated for an hour 
 or more to about 200 to 240 F., under 
 constant stirring, and left to settle. The 
 clear yellow oil is then separated from 
 the brown-soap sediment, which is 
 placed into bags to allow the remain- 
 der of the oil to drain oft'. The soap 
 sediment is sold to soap-makers. The 
 potash-lye must be made in iron pots, 
 but the oil and lye may be mixed in 
 wooden tanks. 
 
 To Purify Train Oil. Add to 1 gal- 
 lon of train oil U ounces each of chalk 
 and slaked lime and pint of water; 
 stir the mixture thoroughly, let it stand 
 ibr several days, and then add f pint 
 more of water and 3 ounces of potash ; 
 heat the fluid without letting it come to 
 a boil, and take it from the fire when 
 the oil has acquired a light amber 
 color. Finally add a solution of 1 
 ounce of salt in J pint of water, let the 
 mixture boil for hour and pour it 
 into a reservoir. 
 
 To Purify Illuminating Oil. Mix 
 200 gallons of oil with 60 pounds of 
 sulphuric acid, and stir for 3 hours. 
 Add a mixture of 6 pounds of clay, 15 
 pounds of slaked lime, and 200 gallons 
 of water, and boil the whole for 3 hours, 
 with constant stirring. When cold 
 draw off the oil, which will be entirely 
 pure. 
 
 To Purify Turbid or Impure Poppy- 
 seed Oil. To 5 parts of oil add 2 of 
 cows' milk, and let the mixture boil 
 for i hour. Then remove it from the 
 fire, and when lukewarm filter it into 
 bottles. This oil will in a few days be 
 as clear as good olive oil and resemble 
 it very much in taste. 
 
 To Purify Animal Oils. Animal 
 oils in their natural state contain sticky 
 and albuminous substances, making 
 them unfit for lubricating machinery. 
 The following process is recommended 
 
252 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 by Spencer to remove these evils. The 
 process proposed by him is as follows : 
 Twenty-five gallons of boiling water are 
 poured over 3 quarts of gall-nuts, al- 
 lowed to stand for 3 hours, being fre- 
 quently stirred, and the supernatant 
 clear fluid is then poured off. This 
 is mixed with 125 pounds of bone oil 
 and the mixture boiled for 4 to 6 hours. 
 By adding 8 ounces of sulphuric acid 
 to the mixture, and thoroughly stir- 
 ring, the sticky and albuminous mat- 
 ters will be separated in an insoluble 
 state. 
 
 ot(ger's Simple Process of Making 
 Commercial Petroleum Clear as Water 
 without Distilling it. Place 1 quart 
 of ordinary petroleum in a glass flask 
 and compound it with 4 to 6 ounces of 
 fuming sulphuric acid; close the flask 
 with a glass stopper, shake the mixture 
 several times every day for several 
 days. The oil will in the course of 8 
 days become clear as water, all the for- 
 eign organic substances mixed with the 
 oil having been carbonized. The bottle 
 is then opened, care being had not to 
 inhale the acid vapor; the clear oil is 
 drawn off into another flask by means 
 of a siphon, several times shaken with 
 water frequently renewed, allowed to 
 stand quietly for some time, and then 
 poured into a third flask containing 3 
 ounces of caustic lime ift pieces as large 
 as a pea, when it is shaken several 
 times and then allowed to stand quietly. 
 The oil thus purified is clear as water 
 and well adapted for swelling and dis- 
 solving caoutchouc in small pieces. 
 
 Oil from Sunflower Seed. The seeds 
 of sunflowers yield 15 per cent, of oil. 
 It is used as a table oil, for illuminat- 
 ing purposes, and in the -manufacture 
 of soap. Macassar oil may also be pre- 
 pared from it. This is done by dissolv- 
 ing J ounce of cocoa butter and stirring 
 into it 3 ounces of oil of sunHower seed, 
 entirely odorless, and ounce each of 
 goose grease and melted horse grease. 
 This oil is poured into a flask and 
 mixed with the following ingredients : 
 One-quarter ounce each of liquid storax 
 and oil of eggs, J drachm each of neroli 
 and rose oil, drachm of oil of thyme, 
 and 20 drops of Peruvian balsam. The 
 mixture is allowed to stand for a few 
 hours, and the supernatant pure oil 
 then poured off. 
 
 To Prepare Oil Used in Pumicing 
 Wood. Mix 2 pounds of old linseed 
 oil with 2i ounces of finely-rubbed 
 silver litharge in a glazed pot holding 
 at least one-third more than the quan- 
 tity required, place this over a coal fire 
 and boil the oil for 1 to 2 hours, stir- 
 ring constantly. The oil is now allowed 
 to stand quietly for a few days, and is 
 then carefully poured off the sediment 
 into a dry vessel or flask, and the oil 
 yet remaining in the residue gained by 
 straining through close linen. The oil 
 is then mixed with half its quantity of 
 oil of turpentine, the whole thoroughly 
 mixed, and the oil is ready for use. 
 
 Cowper's Process of Deodorizing Coal- 
 tar, Rosin Oil, etc. Heat 1400 pounds 
 of rosin oil to 260 F., then add 100 
 pounds of heavy coal-tar oil, and in- 
 troduce superheated steam of about 
 400 F. through a perforated tube in 
 the bottom of the boiler for about 10 
 hours. Oil thus prepared is especially 
 adapted for the manufacture of varnish. 
 For preparing white varnish the oil is 
 intimately mixed with some dilute sul- 
 phuric acid, which is afterwards re- 
 moved by treating with steam, which 
 is best ddie in a still, whereby the 
 escaping volatile oil can be condensed 
 and regained. 
 
 To Detect Rape- seed Oil and all Oils 
 derived from Critciferce. Dissolve i 
 drachm of caustic potash in (i fluid 
 drachms of water, and add to 1 ounce 
 of the oil to be tested, and heat for a 
 few minutes to the boiling point. Strain 
 the entire soapy gum through a moist- 
 ened filter. By compounding the 
 filtrate with solution of acetate of lead, 
 it' will, if rape-seed oil is present, as- 
 sume a brownish color. Small quan- 
 tities of the filtrate and solution of 
 sodium nitro-prusside, placed sepa- 
 rately upon a watch crystal and mixed 
 together with a glass rod, will emit a 
 beautiful but evanescent violet to pur- 
 ple color if rape-seed oil is present. 
 
 To Detect Rape-seed Oil in other Fat 
 Oils. One part of the oil to be tested 
 is dissolved in about 2 parts by volume 
 of ether; then add 20 to 30 drops of a 
 saturated solution of nitrate of silver in 
 alcohol, mix the whole thoroughly by 
 shaking and let it then stand quietly 
 in a shady place. Should a consider- 
 able percentage of rape-seed oil be 
 
OILS AND FATS. 
 
 258 
 
 present, the lowest layer of the fluid 
 will at once assume a brownish tint 
 and finally become entirely black. If 
 but little of rape-seed oil is present, a 
 black-brown coloring will be percepti- 
 ble only after about 12 hours. The 
 reaction becomes still more decided 
 by evaporating the ether. Olive oil, I 
 oil of almonds, poppy-seed oil, and fat 
 mustard-seed oil do not show this re- 
 action. 
 
 Preparation and Uses of Paraffine. 
 The tar is washed out with lime-water 
 f< rced into the still by means of a 
 montejus, distilled with steam, and the 
 distillate separated into 2 parts : crude 
 light oil and parafline. The latter is 
 crystallized in reservoirs. The light 
 oil is treated with sulphuric acid and 
 lye, and freed from acid. The acid 
 and lye containing rosin and creosote 
 are worked up into by-products. The 
 oil, on being distilled in a vacuum, gives 
 essence, photogen, solar oil, and pure 
 paraffine. The latter is put into a press. 
 The oil is again treated with acid and 
 lye, and is then ready for the market. 
 
 The paraffine taken from the press 
 is freed from the oil by a centrifugal. 
 The crystallized mass remaining in 
 the centrifugal is further treated in the 
 machine with a saturated solution of 
 pure paraffine, and then formed in 
 wooden moulds into bricks, which are 
 pressed as cold as possible by means of 
 cold hydraulic presses. 
 
 Another process of cleansing paraffine j 
 is as follows: The paraffin* is melted j 
 and digested with about ^ of its weight j 
 of animal charcoal, for a few hours, so I 
 that the paraffine shall remain in a | 
 liquid state. When the purification 
 is complete, the paraffine is strained 
 through linen and crystallized. 
 
 The paraffine of commerce is a color- 
 less, translucent substance, perfectly in- 
 odorous and tasteless. It floats on water, 
 has a density of about 0.87, and melts j 
 at about 113 to 140 F., forming a j 
 colorless oil, which, on cooling, again j 
 solidifies into a crystalline mass. It | 
 boils at about 698 F., and volatilizes 
 without decomposition. It does not ab- 
 sorb oxygen from the air, and is but 
 slowly attacked by sulphuric acid, 
 even at the boiling point of water. It 
 is not at all attacked by dilute nitric 
 acid, and only by the strong acid after 
 
 prolonged boiling. Lately it has been 
 discovered that if paraffine be heated 
 for a considerable time in a sealed tube, 
 the result is a more fusible paraffine, 
 exactly similar in its apparent chemi- 
 cal composition, but much softer and 
 more fusible, so that, in fact, if the heat 
 be continued for a considerable time, 
 the paraffine being still under pressure, 
 a perfectly transparent liquid paraffine 
 is ultimately obtained. 
 
 In addition to the properties which 
 have brought it into such extensive use 
 for illuminating purposes, paraffine has 
 qualities which give it an exceedingly 
 wide range of useful applications. It 
 can be advantageously used in oil baths 
 in place of oil. Independent of greater 
 cleanliness, it can be heated several 
 times and continuously to 572 F. 
 without decomposition, and at that 
 temperature i-emains thinly-fluid and 
 clear as water, so that the drying ap- 
 paratuses in the paraffine bath are 
 plainly visible, while oil, after having 
 been frequently heated, becomes black 
 and thickly-fluid. As paraffine melts 
 at a low temperature, vessels of glass 
 containing the substances to be dried 
 can be placed in it without fear of 
 bursting. The vessels used in the 
 paraffine bath are cleansed in the same 
 manner as those in the oil bath, with 
 benzole, which dissolves paraffine. 
 
 Filtering paper drawn through 
 melted paraffine will bear contact with 
 sulphuric acid for weeks without being 
 in the least attacked by it. Paraffine 
 may also be used for coating labels on 
 vessels containing acids and alkalies. 
 To prevent it from permeating the 
 paper, rendering the latter transparent, 
 it is recommended to coat the paper, be- 
 fore pasting it on the vessels, with thin 
 solution of gum- Arabic. 
 
 Sponges and papers saturated with 
 paraffine furnish products preferable 
 as regards stability to those treated 
 with wax. It seems also to be availa- 
 ble for preserving fruits: apples and 
 pears, being dipped into melted paraf- 
 fine, have been kept unchanged under 
 the most unfavorable circumstances. 
 
 For water-proofing wearing apparel, 
 military equipments, and the like it is 
 much better than rubber, as it is odor- 
 less, and does not become sticky with 
 heat. For the water-proofing of tent- 
 
254 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 cloths, ground-sheets for soldiers, etc., 
 it has been found of great value. 
 
 Paraffine is largely used for the lin- 
 ing of casks and other wooden vessels, 
 to keep them sweet and to prevent 
 either the absorption of their contents 
 by the wood, or their escape through 
 the pores. If applied to beer barrels it 
 keeps them from becoming musty and 
 foul ; and by filling the pores and 
 joints of the staves it prevents the 
 escape of carbonic acid gas. Water- 
 buckets, butter - firkins, and other 
 wooden articles of domestic use can be 
 similarly treated, and, as the material 
 is cheap, easily obtained, and easily ap- 
 plied, it may be tried on a small scale 
 by any one. 
 
 In the laundry, paraffine rubbed on 
 the hot flat-iron imparts a beautiful 
 gloss to starched goods, greatly lightens 
 the labor of ironing, and leaves no 
 greasy stain, being much superior to the 
 spermaceti used for this purpose. Dis- 
 solved in naphtha, paraffine has been 
 applied with excellent effect to decay- 
 ing brick and stonework, filling the 
 pores of these materials and putting a 
 stop to the destructive action of the 
 weather. Fine wood-work exposed to 
 the weather can be protected in the 
 same manner. Instead of using sealing- 
 wax for the tops of bottles, as good a 
 sealing or better, and with much less 
 trouble, is obtained by dipping the bot- 
 tles into melted paraffine. 
 
 JBelmontine and Sherwood Oil. For 
 several years past considerable quan- 
 tities of naphtha have been brought to 
 England from the East Indies and the 
 Indian Archipelago. This is worked 
 up in a large London establishment by 
 distilling it with superheated steam into 
 a light oil called " Sherwood Oil" and 
 into heavy paraffine oils. The Sher- 
 wood oil resembles benzine, and is used 
 as a solvent of caoutchouc, etc. The 
 heavy oils, purified and rectified, furnish 
 a very fine paraffine called "Belmont- 
 ine" which melts at 140 F., and is 
 therefore especially adapted for the 
 manufacture of candles. The purified 
 paraffine oils may also be used for burn- 
 ing in lamps. This, like all other nat- 
 ural naphtha recently examined, con- 
 tains neither creosote nor carbolic acid, 
 which is a special advantage the natural 
 products possess over the artificial tar 
 
 oils gained from coal, brown ooal, and 
 peat. 
 
 A New Oil from California. Hep- 
 tane, as this product is called, is a vol- 
 atile oil resembling paraffine oil, and is 
 gained by making incisions in the 
 trunk of the Digger or nut pine (Pinus 
 sabinianus), growing on the lower 
 ranges of the Sierra Nevada. The prod- 
 uct is an oily, resinous substance which 
 by simple distillation is converted into 
 an oil which is sold in San Francisco and 
 neighborhood under various names, for 
 instance, Abietine, Theoline, Erasine, 
 etc. It is used for the same purposes as 
 benzine and is especially well adapted 
 and preferable for removing stains and 
 cleansing gloves, as it has an agree- 
 able odor resembling that of the 
 orange. The boiling point of the crude 
 oil is only a few degrees above that of 
 water, and, when distilled at this tem- 
 perature, deposits a resinous residue 
 having a strong, penetrating odor of 
 oranges. The inhaling of the vapors 
 of the oil produces an effect like that of 
 chloroform, allaying pain. This new 
 product deserves the attention of the 
 commercial world, as it can without 
 doubt be used in the manufacture of 
 perfumeries, and as a harmless and suit- 
 able remedy for certain ailments. 
 
 To Distinguish Light Oils from 
 Crude Petroleum from Light Tar Oils. 
 
 Light Petroleum Oil 
 ("Benzine" or "Beit- 
 zoline.") 
 
 1. Consists of hep- 
 tano (C 7 H 16 ) and its 
 homologues. 
 
 2. Heptane contains 
 84 per cent, of carbon. 
 
 3. Commences to boil 
 at 129.2 to 140 F. 
 
 4. Specific weight at 
 60 F. about 0.<59 to 
 0.72. 
 
 5. Smells of petro- 
 leum. 
 
 6. Dissolves iodine, 
 the solution being 
 raspberry-red. 
 
 7. If brought in con- 
 tact with coal-tar 
 pitch, even for a long 
 time, it dissolves very 
 little of the latter and 
 becomes scarcely col- 
 ored, 
 
 Coal-Tar Naphtha or 
 "Benzole." 
 
 1. Consists of ben- 
 zc>le(C 6 11 6 ) and its ho- 
 mologues. 
 
 2. Benzole contains 
 92.3 per cent, of car- 
 bon. 
 
 3. Commences to boil 
 at 170 F. 
 
 4. Specific weight at 
 60 F. about 0.88. 
 
 5. Smells of coal-tar. 
 
 6. Dissolves iodine, 
 the solution being pur- 
 ple, resembling an 
 aqueous solution of 
 permanganate of po- 
 tassium. 
 
 7. Dissolves coal-tar 
 pitch very easily, the 
 solution assuming a 
 deep-brown color. 
 
OILS AND FATS. 
 
 255 
 
 8. When shaken in 
 the (old with % of it* 
 volume of melted crys- 
 tals of pure carbolic- 
 acid, the latter is not 
 dissolved, but forms a 
 layer by itself separate 
 from the oil. 
 
 9. Requires for a 
 complete solution at 
 an ordinary tampera- 
 ture '2 volumes of abso- 
 lute alcohol, or 4 to 5 
 volumes of methyl al- 
 cohol of 0.828 specific- 
 gravity. 
 
 10. Heated with 4 
 volumes of nitric acid 
 of 1.45 specific gravity, 
 the latter becomes 
 brown, while the oil is 
 but little attacked and 
 forms an upper layer. 
 
 8. Can be mixed 
 with pure carbolic acid 
 in all proportions. 
 
 9. Miscible with ab- 
 solute alcohol in all 
 proportions. It forms 
 a homogeneous fluid 
 with an equal volume 
 of methyl alcohol of 
 0.828 specific gravity. 
 
 10. Is entirely mis- 
 ciblewith 4 volumes of 
 nitric acid of 1.45 spe- 
 cific gravity, becoming 
 at the same time uni- 
 formly heated and as- 
 suming a dark brown 
 color. A part of the 
 nitrobenzole formed 
 may, on cooling the 
 fluid, separate as a dis- 
 tinct layer. 
 
 Many analyses have shown that the 
 light petroleum oils, sold under the 
 name of benzoline or benzine, contain 
 about 50 per cent, of heptane. 
 
 Practical Purification of Crude, 
 Heavy Wood-tar Oil and Preparation 
 of Crude Wood-tar Creosote. The 
 heavy wood-tar oils obtained in the 
 distillation of wood tar, having a specific 
 gravity of 0.993 to 1.025, are collected 
 in special vessels, then brought into 
 sheet-iron tanks and thoroughly mixed, 
 when they will show at an average a 
 specific gravity of 1.015. This oil is 
 then brought into large vats open on 
 the top, and a strong solution of carbon- 
 ate of sodium is gradually added, caus- 
 ing a strong effervescence and the acetic 
 acid to combine with the soda to acetate 
 of sodium. This is continued until 
 all reaction ceases, when the mixture is 
 allowed to settle. The supernatant oil 
 is then drawn off and treated with cold, 
 caustic soda-lye of 1.20 specific gravity. 
 This is best accomplished by providing 
 the vat with a stirring apparatus and 
 agitating the oil thoroughly for 1 hour. 
 It is then allowed to stand quietly, and 
 the stirring apparatus is removed from 
 the vat. To promote a better settling 
 of the lye it is advisable to heat the 
 fluid towards the end of the stirring 
 operation by introducing steam. 
 
 The separated oily parts are then 
 
 drawn off into another vat, and again 
 treated with cold, caustic soda-lye of 
 1.25, thoroughly agitated by means of 
 the stirring apparatus and allowed to 
 stand quietly, using the above precau- 
 tions. The separated oil is stored in 
 special vessels and finally rectified in a 
 clean still of wrought or cast iron, 
 whereby a considerable quantity of 
 light wood-tar oil will pass over, which 
 is added to the other light oils. The 
 heavy oil is then treated several times 
 with concentrated, caustic soda-lye as 
 above, to remove the last particle of 
 creosote. 
 
 The heavy wood-tar oil, previously 
 washed with hot water, is now treated 
 with 5 per cent, of concentrated sul- 
 phuric acid, thoroughly stirred, and 
 allowed to settle. This operation is 
 carried on in a wooden vat lined with 
 lead, stirring for % to 1 hour. The acid 
 which has settled is then drawn off, 
 the oil freed from all traces of acid by 
 adding 2 per cent, of caustic soda-lye 
 and washing with steam. It is then 
 distilled in a copper still, whereby again 
 some light oil passes over, which must 
 be collected in a special receiver ; the 
 heavy oil containing paraffine, which 
 passes over later on, is brought into 
 special reservoirs, where the paraffine 
 separates by crystallizing into small 
 laminaB. The oil must for this purpose 
 stand at least for 4 weeks in a cool 
 place. The liquid oil is drawn off by 
 faucets arranged on the reservoir at 
 different heights, while the crystals of 
 paraffine remain behind. This fluid 
 oil is largely composed of xylol, but is 
 also contaminated with eupione and 
 Kapnomor. 
 
 The crystals of paraffine are brought 
 into a straw filter, pressed, and kept to 
 be used in the purification of paraffine. 
 while the fat oil which drains off and 
 is free from creosote may be used as a 
 lubricator for machines. 
 
 The lyes containing the creosote are 
 neutralized with sulphuric acid, where- 
 by the crude creosote is separated, which 
 is stored away for preparing creosote, 
 while the acid fluids are evaporated to 
 dryness and calcined to regain the soda 
 contained in them. 
 
 /Separating and Purifying fats. The 
 method of separating the constituents 
 of animal fat used by the Oleomargarine 
 
256 
 
 TECIINO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Manufacturing Co., of New York, con- 
 sists in mincing the fat and introducing 
 it, together with its own weight in water, 
 into a wooden tank, which is heated by 
 a steatn coil to from 104 to 122 F., 
 and constantly stirred. After 2 hours 
 the oleomargarine and stearine sepa- 
 rate from the scraps and are then al- 
 lowed to cool to separate from the 
 water. They are then thoroughly 
 worked with 2 per cent, of salt, put in 
 bags, and subjected to pressure or 
 centrifugal action in a temperature of 
 59 F., which separates the oleomarga- 
 rine from the stearine, as the latter is 
 not affected by this heat, although the 
 former is melted by it. After the oleo- 
 margarine has again congealed, it may 
 be worked a second time with salt to 
 separate the last traces of water. 
 
 To Remove /Sulphuric Acid (ind Sul- 
 Adhering to Mineral Oils after 
 , Periitz uses finely-pulverized 
 dry calcium hydrate and 40 per cent, 
 of soda-lye. The quantities by weight 
 to be used can be determined after a 
 few distillations, but can also be ascer- 
 tained by an experiment on a small 
 scale. The process is as follows : As 
 eoon as the boiler is filled the powdered 
 lime, about i to 1 per cent., is added 
 and the fire started, while a work- 
 man mixes the powder with the oil by 
 means of a wooden implement. As 
 goon as the oil has been mixed for i 
 hour, 40 per cent, of soda-lye is added, 
 .mixed for hour, and the boiler closed. 
 Petroleum, containing many oils with 
 a low boiling point, must be mixed 
 while cold, or treated with the alkalies 
 in a mixing apparatus hermetically 
 closed, and then pumped or forced into 
 the boiler. The sulphur combinations 
 in the mineral oils are decomposed by 
 the added alkaline hydrates during the 
 high temperature prevailing in the last 
 stage of the distillation, and remain 
 mostly sodium sulphide or calcium sul- 
 phide. If the asphaitum can be util- 
 ized it is advisable to distil only to the 
 formation of asphaitum, but if not, to 
 finish distilling in horizontal retorts. 
 This method will, it is claimed, give 5 
 to 10 per cent, more of pure white 
 illuminating oil than any other. The 
 oil has an agreeable ethereal odor; the 
 heavy paraffine oils have a, light yel- 
 lowish color shading finally slightly 
 
 into green, and are entirely free from 
 chrysene and pyrene. 
 
 Coal-tar Varnish Oil. The second 
 distillate passing over in purifying 
 crude, light coal-tar oil, having a 
 specific gravity of 0.850 to 0.890, and 
 also the first distillate gained in purify- 
 ing crude, heavy coal-tar oil, are used 
 for manufacturing varnish oil. The 2 
 distillates combined show a specific 
 gravity of 0.900. Place about 200 
 pounds of this in a holder lined with 
 lead, add 1 pound of chromate of 
 potassium, 8i ounces of pyrolusite, 
 and about 4 pounds of sulphuric acid, 
 stir constantly for 1 hour, then let 
 the mixture stand quietly for a few 
 hours, and draw off the oil, which has 
 assumed a dark color, while many 
 resinous substances remain with the 
 acid upon the bottom of the holder. 
 First wash the oil with warm water, 
 then add 2 per cent, of caustic soda-lye 
 of 5 Beaume, stir thoroughly and 
 allow to stand quietly for a few hours, 
 during which many impurities and 
 resinous substances are removed by the 
 lye. Repeat this operation once more, 
 using only 8i ounces of chromate of 
 potassium, 4 ounces of pyrolusite, and 
 2 pounds of sulphuric acid. The oil is 
 again washed and freed from acid with 
 2 per cent, of caustic soda-lye of 5 B. 
 After allowing it to stand for some time 
 the clear oil is brought into a copper 
 still, and distilled at first with a moder- 
 ate fire. Some benzole passes over 
 first, which is removed, and then the 
 varnish oil having a specific gravity of 
 0.880. It is clear a water, has a 
 slightly aromatic but not disagreeable 
 smell, and does not turn yellow on ex- 
 posure to the air. It is an excellent 
 solvent for resins and fatty substances, 
 especially when it is once more rectified 
 with double-rectified oil of turpentine. 
 
 (For Varnishes, Printing-ink, and 
 Lubricants prepared with this oil see 
 under the respective headings.) 
 
 Process of Producing Heavy Coal-tar 
 Oil in England. Place the crude, 
 heavy oil in large cast-iron stills and 
 introduce superheated steam until the 
 oil passing over has a specific gravity 
 of 0.91. Then shut off the steam and 
 distil with fire under the apparatus, 
 whereby water and heavy coal-tar oil 
 are obtained, continuing the distillation 
 
OIL-PAINTINGS. HOW TO CLEANSE, ETC. 
 
 257 
 
 rantil the oil has a specific gravity of 
 0.99. The residue in the stills, consist- 
 ing principally of asphaltum pitch, is 
 run off and sold as asphaltum. The 
 crude, heavy coal-tar oil is now further 
 refined by mixing it intimately with 
 sulphuric acid in the proportion of 100 
 gallons of oil to 15 gallons of acid, in a 
 vat lined with lead. The mixture is 
 allowed to cool and settle ; the clear 
 fluid is then drawn off into another 
 vessel, and to every 100 gallons of oil 
 are added 10 gallons of caustic soda-lye 
 of 1.35 specific gravity. Stir the whole 
 thoroughly for 1 hour, then allow it to 
 settle, draw off the clear fluid, and 
 rectify this until the oil passing over 
 has a specific gravity of 0.94. The oil 
 is then conveyed into a smaller still 
 and distillation continued until the 
 contents of the still are exhausted. 
 The oil obtained is treated with dry 
 ammoniaeal gas, whereby naphthaline 
 is deposited, then filtered through a 
 bag, the filtrate forming the purified, 
 heavy coal-tar oil. The lighter coal- 
 tar oil, having a specific gravity of 0.91, 
 is compounded in another distilling ap- 
 paratus with 2 pounds of burned lime 
 to 1 gallon of oil, then allowed to 
 stand for some time, and finally dis- 
 tilled. The product will be a more 
 volatile oii, which can be rectified by 
 means of superheated steam, and used 
 together with varnish oil. 
 
 Manufacture of Yellow Shoemaker's 
 Wax from Purified Coal-tar Oils. 
 Melt 400 pounds of rosin in a cast-iron 
 boiler over a moderate fire, add grad- 
 ually 40 pounds of purified, heavy rosin 
 oil and a like quantity of purified, heavy 
 coal-tar oil free from creosote, and con- 
 tinue boiling over a moderate fire until 
 a sample taken from the boiler, on cool- 
 ing, can be kneaded and drawn between 
 the fingers. Now let the mixture cool, 
 and. while it is in a liquid state, add a 
 mixture of 20 pounds each of chrome- 
 yellow and chalk, mix thoroughly and 
 pack the pitch, which is now com- 
 mercial shoemaker's pitch, in boxes. 
 
 Manufacture of Blacksmith's Pitch 
 from Coal-tar. The coal-tar from gas- 
 works, where the tar, for the purpose of 
 freeing it as much as possible from vola- 
 tile oils, is allowed to run back once 
 more into the retorts, is used, or if this 
 cannot be had, the volatile oils must 
 17 
 
 first be expelled from more thinly-fluid 
 tar. The tar is brought into a large 
 distilling apparatus with outlets in tiie 
 bottom, and the light as well as the 
 heavy oils are distilled off" so that finally 
 naphthaline vapors pass over. The 
 cooling water is then drawn off from the 
 condensing tubes, as otherwise the naph- 
 thaline vapors would condense and 
 choke them up. From 100 parts of 
 coal-tar are drawn off 4 per cent, of 
 aqua-ammonia, 3 per cent, of light 
 crude oil, and 15 per cent, of oil con- 
 taining naphthaline, the residue con- 
 taining 48 per cent, of pitch, there being 
 a loss by distillation of 5 per cent. The 
 pitch is very solid, of a eonchoklal 
 fracture, and black-grayish color. It 
 is principally used to provide hot iron 
 with a glossy layer to protect it against 
 rusting. 
 
 Testing Oils. Maumene has investi- 
 gated all the different methods of test- 
 ing oils in regard to their purity, and 
 found that accurate results can only be 
 obtained with sulphuric acid. He pro- 
 ceeds as follows : Fifty grammes of oil 
 are placed in a graduated cylinder 
 capable of holding 150 cubic centi- 
 meters. The temperature of the oil is 
 then ascertained, and 10 cubic centi- 
 meters of concentrated sulphuric aoi<i 
 are gradually added from a pipette and 
 intimately mixed with, the o\\ by stir- 
 ring for a few minutes, and with a ther- 
 mometer the maximum degree of heat 
 is noted. 
 
 The temperature of 50 grammes will rise 
 of pure olive oil . . . 4'2 C. (107. 6 F.) 
 
 of pine-seed oil . 
 
 of castor-oil 
 
 of horse-foot oil . 
 
 of oil of bitter almonds 
 
 of oil of sweet almonds 
 
 of rape-seed oil 
 
 of beech-nut oil 
 
 of peanut oil . 
 
 of sesame oil . 
 
 of hemp oil 
 
 of nut oil. . . 
 
 of cod-liver oil 
 
 of linseed oil . 
 
 43 C. (100.4 F.) 
 47 0. (lK,.fiF.) 
 51. 5 C. (124.7 F.) 
 ft oo r,. (128 f> F ) 
 52.5 C. (12fi.5F.) 
 5,7 0. (134.fi F.) 
 (140 F) 
 (152.6 F.) 
 (154.4 F.) 
 (20X.4 F.) 
 
 fi.5 0. 
 67 O. 
 
 68 C. 
 98 C. 
 
 101 C. (213.8 F,) 
 102C. (215.0) F.) 
 103 C. (217.4 F.) 
 
 OIL-PAINTINGS. How TO CLEANSE, 
 PACK, AND VARNISH THEM, AND 
 TO RESTORE GILT WORK. 
 
 To Cleanse Oil-paintings. The very- 
 important knowledge how to properly 
 
258 
 
 TECIINO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 clean oil-paintings is unfortunately lit- 
 tle understood by those who follow it 
 professionally, their manipulations do- 
 ing often more injury than benefit. 
 The various substances with which the 
 colors may be contaminated, and the 
 variety of ingredients composing the 
 varnish coated upon paintings, demand 
 correspondingly suitable treatment. We 
 can only give a few hints as to the best 
 means of removing stains,impurities,etc. 
 A simple spirit varnish is easily re- 
 moved, but in other cases it can never 
 be done without serious danger to the 
 painting, and for this reason it is of the 
 utmost importance to know whether 
 the varnish is such as can be removed 
 without injury. 
 
 1. Water removes many slimy and 
 sticky substances, and contaminations 
 originating therefrom, when, for in- 
 stance, sugar, honey, glue, isinglass, 
 gum-Arabic, white of egg, etc., have 
 been applied to the painting. 
 
 2. Olive Oil or Butter removes many 
 stains and impurities which resist soap ; 
 it dissolves pitch, rosin, and similar 
 bodies which would require spirit of 
 wine or oil of turpentine. It can be 
 freely used, as it has no effect whatever 
 upon the oil of the painting. 
 
 3. Wood-ash or, what is still more 
 effective, Potash dissolved in water is 
 an excellent solvent for many im- 
 purities; but it must be used with the 
 greatest care, as it easily attacks the oil 
 of the painting when not coated with 
 varnish. But the use of it and of soap 
 is frequently unavoidable, as they are 
 the only substances which can be used 
 for certain purposes. 
 
 4. Soap possesses the same qualities 
 as the above, but as it easily forms a 
 combination with the oil, its use is still 
 more risky. It must therefore only be 
 used in cases where nothing else will 
 dissolve the stains, and then only with 
 the greatest care. 
 
 5. Spirit of wine dissolves all resins, 
 therefore it must be used to remove 
 resinous varnishes ; but it attacks also 
 the oils and softens them that they easily 
 rub off. Oil of turpentine dissolves 
 some resinous varnishes, and many 
 stains can only be removed by its use, 
 which must be done with great care, as 
 it acts very quickly upon the dry oil 
 of the painting. 
 
 6. Oil of Lemon is still more power- 
 ful than oil of turpentine, and should 
 only be used if the stains resist all 
 other means. 
 
 Oils of Lavender and Jtosemary, aa 
 well as other ethereal oils, are as pow- 
 erful solvents as oil of lemon, but, 
 being rather expensive, are seldom 
 used. 
 
 If a painting coated with a varnish 
 consisting of gum-Arabic, albumen, or 
 isinglass is to be cleansed, the varnish 
 must always be removed. This can be 
 easily recognized if, on moistening a 
 part of the painting, the surface feels 
 slimy. The painting, if such is the 
 case, frequently becomes clean by re- 
 moving the varnish, which is done 
 with hot water and a sponge, placing 
 the painting in a horizontal position. 
 The water can be nearly boiling hot 
 and freely used until the varnish begins 
 to soften, but then cooler water and in 
 smaller quantities must be taken. In 
 case the varnish should adhere too 
 tenaciously to be removed with a 
 sponge, it may be rubbed with a woollen 
 cloth, whicn should be frequently 
 wrung out and dipped in fresh, warm 
 water. 
 
 If it is found by the above test that the 
 varnish consists of gum resins, or other 
 substances not soluble in water, it is 
 best to use spirit of wine or oil of 
 turpentine. But if any stains remain 
 behind, the painting is rubbed with 
 warm olive oil or butter. The rubbing 
 is continued when it is found that some 
 parts begin to feel smeary, or the im- 
 purities combine with the oil. The 
 oil, on becoming dirty, is removed, and 
 fresh applied until the stains have dis- 
 appeared, the excess of oil being then 
 wiped off with a woollen cloth. Should 
 the painting require further cleansing, 
 recourse must be had to a solution of 
 wood-ash or potash prepared as fol- 
 lows : Dissolve 2 parts of potash in 30 
 of water, or pour 4-i parts of water 
 over 2 of wood-ash ; let the mixture 
 stand for i day, stirring frequently. 
 When the earthy part of the ash has 
 settled, pour off the clear fluid and 
 evaporate it to i of its volume. Heat the 
 lye somewhat and, with a cloth dipped 
 in, rub the stains until they disappear. 
 Should the effect of the lye be only to 
 attack the stain without entirely re- 
 
OIL-PAINTINGS. HOW TO CLEANSE, ETC. 
 
 259 
 
 moving it, soap-boiler's lye may be 
 tried, but with the utmost caution, and 
 immediately using water when the 
 stain disappears. There is less danger 
 if there is a thick coat of varnish upon 
 the painting, and in such a case it is 
 frequently possible to clean the paint- 
 ing entirely and without injuring it, 
 by washing freely with wood-ash lye or 
 weak soap-boiler's lye. 
 
 Should the stains resist all the means 
 mentioned above, spirit of wine must 
 be tried, or, if this fails, oil of turpen- 
 tine, and, as a last resource, oil of 
 lemon. The stains only, and no other 
 part of the painting, must be gently 
 rubbed with a linen cloth moistened 
 with the solvent, and rubbing must 
 cease at once in case it is noticed that 
 the solvent attacks the colors. 
 
 After rubbing a short time, immedi- 
 ately apply olive oil to the stain, in 
 case oil of turpentine or oil of lemon 
 is used as a solvent, and water 
 if spirit of wine, mopping it up with 
 a woollen cloth; frequently the oper- 
 ation will have to be repeated. 
 
 If the painting is coated with a var- 
 nish composed of substances not solu- 
 ble in water, and remains dirty after 
 a careful application of the mentioned 
 means, or, as happens frequently, be- 
 comes clouded, it will be necessary to 
 remove the varnish. This is done in 
 the following manner: Lav the paint- 
 ing upon a table and thoroughly 
 moisten the surface with a sponge 
 dipped in spirit of wine, rubbing very 
 gently. After thus treating the entire 
 surface for a few minutes, pour cold 
 water over it, which will remove the 
 spirit of wine and also the varnish dis- 
 solved by it. All rubbing or force 
 must be strictly avoided, as this would 
 inevitably injure the painting. This 
 operation, when the painting is dry, 
 may, if necessary, be repeated. If 
 paintings with an old coat of varnish, 
 consisting srenerallv of gum resins and 
 Unseed oil. cannot be sufficiently cleaned 
 in this manner, no other means are 
 available. Such varnish, to be sure. 
 can be somewhat, reduced by rubbing 
 the surface with oil of lemon and then 
 gently with olive oil, but this requires 
 the gVeatest care, and, as the colors of 
 the painting generally suffer injury, 
 is always risky. 
 
 To Remove a Painting from the Old 
 Canvas and Transfer it to a New. 
 Paste several sheets of paper over the 
 painting; then take it out of the frame 
 and place it, paper side down, upon a 
 level table. Now moisten the canvas, 
 but not too much, with a sponge dipped 
 in water, till it can be detached. Com- 
 mence on one corner, rolling the can- 
 vas up and continuing to moisten it, 
 until it is entirely removed. Apply 
 strong glue or paste to the back of the 
 painting and the new canvas, lay the 
 latter upon the back of the painting 
 and rub with a roller until both are 
 joined. When thoroughly dry, care- 
 fully remove the paper by moistening 
 it, cleanse the painting from the glue, 
 and coat it with Dutch varnish pre- 
 pared as follows: Take a flask large 
 enough to be filled about by the fol' 
 lowing ingredients: Eight parts of se- 
 lected \vhite mastic in grains, 2 of 
 Venetian turpentine boiled hard, i of 
 elemi and 30 of pure oil of turpentine. 
 Cover the flask with a piece of perfor- 
 ated bladder and place it in a water- 
 bath until all are dissolved, shaking 
 it frequently. When cold strain the 
 varnish through a clean linen cloth. 
 
 How to Pack Oil -paintings for 
 Transportation. Take the painting 
 from the frame and carefully place 
 upon the painted side, raw cotton, silk 
 wadding, thin flannel, or similar ma- 
 terials, and roll it into a cylinder, tak- 
 ing care not to make the diameter too 
 small. 
 
 To Paste an Oil-painting upon 
 Wood, use cabinet-makers' glue, or a 
 compound of Greek pitch and wax ; or 
 prepare a paste from flour and a little 
 garlic crushed in water. 
 
 To Cleanse Beef's Gall to be Used 
 as a Varnish on Paintinqs, etc. Boil 
 in a porcelain dish 45 parts of beet : s 
 gall with water, and then add 2 parts 
 of powdered alum. Stir the mixture 
 for i hour, and. when cold, filter. 
 Then add to the gall, which is now 
 entirely decolorized, | part of anhy- 
 drous spirit of wine, let the mixture 
 stand for 2 days, and then pour off the 
 supernatant clear fluid, while the alum 
 in the form of small crystals remains 
 on the bottom of the vessel. 
 
 Cleansing and Lacquering of Oil- 
 paintings. Mix 1 part of spirit of sal- 
 
2GO 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 ammoniac and 12 of water, and rub 
 the painting with a soft sponge moist- 
 ened with the mixture. For lacquering 
 dissolve 1 part of choice mastic in 2 
 of pure benzine, and filter the solu- 
 tion. 
 
 To Cleanse and Renovate the Gold 
 and Framework of Old Altars. Cleanse 
 first the lustre gold by rubbing it 
 gently first with a fine sponge slightly 
 moistened with oil of tartar, and then 
 with a sponge dipped in alcohol, which 
 will remove all the dirt. Dead gilding 
 is carefully wiped with a white flannel 
 cloth dipped in soap-boiler's lye, and 
 then quickly dried with a fine linen 
 rag, which will make the gilding ap- 
 pear like new. 
 
 For Cleansing the Frameivork from 
 dirt, prepare a lye by dissolving 1 
 ounce of calcined potash in 1^ pints of 
 water and wash the parts to be cleansed 
 with asponge dipped in thesolution,and 
 immediately afterward wipe dry with 
 another sponge, which will make the 
 work appear like new. Then varnish 
 the work with an amber varnish pre- 
 pared as follows: Introduce 8 ounces 
 of amber in pieces into an iron pot 
 about 5 inches high and coated outside 
 
 1 inch thick with potter's clay. Pour 
 
 2 fluid ounces of turpentine over the 
 amber and melt the whole over a 
 moderate coal fire. Then add grad- 
 ually and with constant stirring 4 i fluid 
 ounces of hot linseed-oil varnish and 1 
 pint of oil of turpentine, and the 
 varnish is ready for use. 
 
 To Repair Lustre Gilding on Altars. 
 In cleansing altars the gold work is 
 frequently rubbed off on the raised 
 parts, while that in the depressions re- 
 mains uninjured. The injured parts 
 are repaired in the following manner: 
 Melt white wax, Venetian turpentine, 
 and a little soap over a moderate coal 
 fire and apply the compound to the in- 
 jured places with a brush. After one 
 hour lay on the gilding, which will be 
 far more beautiful than when laid on 
 size. 
 
 To Restore Silver on Altars and 
 Tabernacles. Prepare a solution of 1 
 ounce of Peruvian balsam in 1 pound 
 of alcohol, and with a sponge dipped in 
 the mixture rub quickly over the sur- 
 face, and wash immediately afterwards 
 with a sponge moistened with fresh 
 
 well water, and then dry with a clean 
 linen cloth. If the silver is rubbed 
 oft' anywhere proceed in the same man- 
 ner as given for repairing gilding. 
 
 PAINTS AND PIGMENTS. GRINDING 
 AND MIXING COLORS. GRAINING. 
 IMITATION OF MARBLES. PAINTS 
 AND WASHES FOB VARIOUS PUR- 
 POSES, ETC. 
 
 Grinding Colors. Although this 
 work has in great measure been super- 
 seded by the iron paint-mill and the 
 introduction of ground colors put up 
 in tin boxes, many painters, either 
 from prejudice or other causes, grind 
 their own colors. This process is per- 
 formed on a stone by the aid of a mul- 
 ler. The stone is generally a slab of 
 white or black marble or porphyry 
 with a perfectly smooth surface, and 
 the muller a stone or glass pestle with 
 a smooth, flat bottom. A small quan- 
 tity of the dry color, previously 
 pounded and sifted, is placed on the 
 
 j stone and moistened with a little oil 
 and the muller worked over it in a cir- 
 cular direction. The materials are 
 gradually worked out towards the edge 
 of the stone, from whence they must 
 be removed, and also from the sides of 
 the muller, with a spatula or palette 
 knife. All colors containing arsenic 
 are injured by contact with steel, so 
 that the painter should have an ivory 
 or horn knife, called a " voider," to re- 
 move the ground paint from the stone. 
 The paint, before it is removed, should 
 be perfectly smooth and free from grit. 
 Jirushes. Either round or flat brushes 
 are used. The latter are used princi- 
 pally in varnishing and in graining. 
 Smaller surfaces, such as mouldings, 
 are painted with "sash-tools," which 
 are an intermediate size between the 
 large brushes and "filches" The lat- 
 ter are very small brushes, bound with 
 tinned iron instead of string. 
 
 The first process in painting wood- 
 work is that of "knotting" As the 
 knots in a piece of wood generally 
 present the ends instead of the side of 
 
 ! the grain to the eye, it is necessary to 
 
 I give the knots an additional coat of 
 paint, which, by filling up the pores, 
 
 i shall leave the surface fit to present a 
 
PAINTS AND PIGMENTS. 
 
 261 
 
 solid and uniform appearance when i 
 painted. The knotting is made of red ' 
 lead, litharge, and boiled oil, or spirits 
 of turpentine. When the knotting is 
 dry the first coat, called "priming," 
 is laid on. This is in almost all cases 
 white lead. The priming is made 
 thinner than any of the subsequent 
 coats. When the priming is dry 
 the nail-holes and other depressions are 
 tilled with putty, and the whole is well 
 dusted. The second color is then given, 
 which has the usual consistency of oil 
 paint. As a general rule the prepara- 
 tory coats of paint are white, whatever 
 the finishing color is to be. When old 
 work, or that which has been previ- 
 ously painted, is to be repainted, care 
 must be taken that all grease and dirt 
 are removed from the paint before the 
 new is applied. For this purpose it 
 should be washed, if necessary, with 
 water containing soda or pearl-ash, or 
 the greasy parts should be cleansed 
 with turpentine, if roughness exists 
 on the surface of the old paint it is 
 necessary to rub it down with pumice- 
 stone or, in extreme cases, to burn off 
 the paint. The manner of using the 
 brush is an art which practice alone 
 will give. Sometimes long strokes of 
 the brush are desirable ; at others 
 shorter strokes, or a kind of dabbing, 
 are necessary, especially for ornamental 
 work. 
 
 Graining. Almost all wood whose 
 grain is of a tanciful or elegant pat- 
 tern, such as oak, mahogany, bird's-eye 
 maple, satin-wood, black walnut, rose- 
 wood, etc., may be imitated. The princi- 
 ple of imitation is, that a ground shall 
 be laid on nearly the same tint as the 
 lightest parts of the wood to be imi- 
 tated, and which color is ground in oil. 
 On this, when dry, is laid a thin coat- 
 ing of a transparent color, which is 
 mixed, not with oil, but with beer: and 
 which is so treated with a comb or 
 ot.her implement as to yield a resem- 
 blance to the grain of the wood to be 
 imitated. After this is dry the darker 
 parts are put in with a small brush or 
 pencil, in such places and in such 
 quantities as may be deemed advisable. 
 The whole, when dry, is then varnished 
 once or twice. 
 
 Oak. This is frequently used for ex- 
 terior work, such as street doors, etc., 
 
 teno 
 
 I 
 
 and is done in oil as follows : For the 
 ground or last coat of paint previous to 
 the graining color, rotten stone and 
 white lead, mixed with oil to a tint 
 similar to the lightest parts of oak is 
 used. On this is laid a thin coat of the 
 " megilp ' or graining color, which is a 
 mixture of rotten stone, sugar of lead, 
 and wax. In a few minutes the grain- 
 ing comb is drawn along the wet sur- 
 face in a waving line, by which an 
 effect is produced similar to the grain 
 of the wood. A piece of leather is now 
 wrapped round the end of the finger, or 
 of a stick, and with it the paint is 
 wiped off in little patches, spots or lines, 
 in imitation of the light spots seen in 
 oak. To remove the appearance of 
 hardness, a dry brush is dabbed over it, 
 by which a softening effect is produced. 
 When the graining color is dry, the 
 dark veins are imitated by putting 011 a 
 little Vaudyke brown, ground in ale. 
 
 To imitate oak in distemper, use the 
 same ground as for oil and apply with 
 a brush, the graining color composed 
 of raw and burned umber, and Van- 
 dyke brown ground in beer. The grain- 
 ing is effected with tools made on pur- 
 pose called "veining brushes." The 
 light and dark patches, veins, etc., are 
 produced in much the same way as in 
 the former instance. When the whole 
 is dry, it is varnished, both for the sake 
 of producing a gloss, and for durability, 
 since the graining color, being mixed 
 with beer, is not of a permanent nature, 
 and requires varnish to preserve it. 
 
 Mahogany. Use a mixture of Vene- 
 tian red, white lead, and a little crim- 
 son lake as a ground, and apply a thin 
 coat of Vandyke brown, or sienna, 
 ground in beer as a graining color, and 
 dab it with a sponge to produce the 
 light parts. A badger hair brush is 
 then drawn lightly across the light and 
 dark parts, by which the edges of divis- 
 ion between them are softened. When 
 this is dry, the deeper tints of the veins, 
 knots, etc., are put in witn a darker 
 shade of Vandyke brown, and the 
 whole again softened with the badger 
 hair brush. 
 
 Rosewood. This requires a brilliant 
 ground. A mixture of vermilion, lake, 
 and flake white is used for the purpose. 
 The graining material is a more opaque 
 and solid Vandyke brown than is used 
 
262 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 for mahogany. This must be laid on in 
 a peculiar way, so as to imitate the re- 
 inaikable contortions of veins so fre- 
 quently observed in rosewood. The 
 light and dark patches, veins, knots, 
 etc., are produced in the same manner 
 as in mahogany, but with a careful 
 attention to the distinctive character of 
 the two kinds of wood. 
 
 Satin Wood. The ground is the same 
 as for oak. The graining color is Ox- 
 ford ochre ground in ale, and is laid on 
 in a thin coat. This is dappled by let- 
 ting a sponge fall on various parts of 
 it, by which portions of the color are 
 taken off. The edges of these dappled 
 patches are then softened with a badger 
 hair brush. When this coat is dry a 
 flat graining brush is dipped in umber 
 and sienna ground in ale, and is drawn 
 over the work in a waving direction, 
 by- which a softened grain is produced. 
 Maple requires the same ground and 
 nearly the same graining colors. as 
 satin wood ; the principal point of differ- 
 ence being in the course and nature of 
 the grain, veins, etc. 
 
 Walnut. Yellow ochre, umber, and 
 white are used for the ground, and the 
 graining color for dark veins, etc., is 
 raw umber. 
 
 Imitation of Marble. This is accom- 
 plished in a very similar manner to 
 that of woods, a study of the natural 
 appearance of marbles being the only 
 way to acquire a knowledge of the best 
 modes of imitating them. 
 
 Green Marble. The ground is white 
 lead, some yellow and blue. When 
 dry it is pumiced and lightly glazed 
 with oil varnish a shade darker than 
 the ground. The patches are then 
 dabbed in with some black and Paris 
 yellow; the veins are painted white, 
 and the whole softened bv a peculiar 
 mode of handling the badger hair 
 brush, called by the painters "scum- 
 bling." 
 
 Dove-colored Marble has a ground 
 of light lead color. Florentine marble 
 has a ground of white, Indian red, and 
 black mixed together; Sienna nlarble 
 a ground of yellow ochre. In all these 
 cases the veins must be put in with 
 such colors as will most successfully 
 imitate the patterns of the original 
 marbles. 
 Receipts for Colors. American Qreen, 
 
 Grind and mix: White 1 part, yellow 
 ochre , lampblack , Berlin blue 20. 
 
 Apple-green. Grind and mix : Min- 
 eral green 1 part, chrome-yellow &. 
 
 Apple-green (Lighter Shade). Min- 
 eral green and white each 1 part, chrome- 
 yellow iV. 
 
 Apple-green ( Very Light Shade). 
 Chrome-yellow 1 part and Berlin 
 blue aV. 
 
 Aurora. Mix chrome-yellow 1 part 
 with vermilion &. 
 
 Azure-blue. White 1 part and Berlin 
 blue lie. 
 
 Blue (Cornflower). White 1 part, 
 Berlin blue &, and some lac varnish. 
 
 Bluish-white. Grind very fine 1 
 part ot white lead or zinc white, and 
 add ilu of indigo. 
 
 Bremen Green. Mix : White 1 part, 
 chrome-yellow A, Berlin blue andiamp- 
 black each &. 
 
 Chamois. White 1 part, chrome- 
 yellow &, vermilion &. 
 
 Cherry-red. Grind and mix : Cinna- 
 bar 1 part and lac varnish i. 
 
 Chestnut-brown. Prussian red 1 
 part, lampblack ^5, and cinnabar &. 
 
 Crimson. Mix vermilion and car- 
 mine lake. 
 
 Enamel-white. Add a trace of Berlin 
 blue to 1 pound of white lead or zinc 
 white. 
 
 Flax-gray. Grind 1 part of white 
 lead or zinc white, and add & of lamp- 
 black and a like quantity of lake. 
 
 Golden-yellow. Grind 1 part of 
 white and add & of chrome-yellow. ' 
 
 A Beautiful Golden-yellow Color is 
 obtained by brightening Naples or 
 Montpellier yellow with Spanish white 
 or white of Morat, mixed with ochre de 
 Berry and realgar. The last substance, 
 even in a small quantity, gives to the 
 mixture a color imitating gold, and 
 which may be employed in distemper, 
 varnish, or oil. 
 
 Grass-green. Grind and mix: 
 Chrome-yellow 1 part, Berlin blue &. 
 ' Grass-Green(LighterShade). Chrome- 
 yellow aud white each 1 part, Berlin 
 blue A. 
 
 Hazel-yellow. White 1 part, yellow 
 ochre A, red ochre and black paint 
 each jfo. 
 
 Jonquil. White 1 part, chrome- 
 yellow &. 
 
 Lemon Color. . White 1 part, chrome- 
 
PAINTS AND PIGMENTS. 
 
 263 
 
 yellow , Berlin Blue ?$a; or, white 
 1 part, mineral yellow J. 
 
 Light Gray. Mix T&S part of lamp- 
 black with 1 of white lead or zinc 
 white. 
 
 Lilac. I. Grind and mix : White 1 
 part, lake A, Berlin blue ds. 
 
 II. White 1 part, red madder lake 
 and ultramarine each aV. 
 
 Mahogany. Grind and mix : White 
 1 part, sienna &, and Paris red j$. 
 
 Oak. Grind and mix : White 1 part, 
 saffron-colored ochre &, and black 
 paint *fc. 
 
 Olive-green. Grind and mix : Yel- 
 low ochre 1 part and lampblack A. 
 
 Sea-green. White 1 part, chrome- 
 yellow iV, and Berlin blue rk. 
 
 Silver-gray. Grind 1 part of white 
 lead or zinc white, and add enough 
 indigo to obtain the desired shade. 
 
 Straw Color. Grind fine 1 part of 
 white lead or zinc white, and add & of 
 chrome-yellow. 
 
 Sulphur Color. Grind and mix: 
 White and mineral yellow each 1 part, 
 and the necessary quantity of Berlin 
 blue to obtain the desired shade. 
 
 Violet (Dark). Grind and mix equal 
 parts of carmine lake and Berlin blue. 
 
 Violet (Medium). Carmine lake 1 
 part, Berlin blue A. 
 
 Violet (Light). Carmine lake J part, 
 white 1, and Berlin blue A. 
 
 Violet ( Very Light). Mix : Carmine 
 lake and white each 1 part, and Berlin 
 blue 2*5. 
 
 Violet (Bluish). Carmine lake and 
 white each 1 part and Berlin blue A. 
 
 Walnut (Dark). Grind and mix: 
 
 White 1 part, umber &, and red ochre 5*5. 
 
 Walnut (Lighter Shade). White 1 
 
 part, saffron-colored ochre and sienna 
 
 each ik. 
 
 Walnut ( Very Light). White 1 part, 
 saffron-colored ochre and sienna each &. 
 
 PAINTS FOR VARIOUS PURPOSES. 
 Flexible Paint. Slice 2i pounds of 
 good yellow soap and dissolve it in H 
 gallons of boiling water, and grind the 
 solution while hot with 3J gallons of 
 good oil paint. It is used to paint on 
 canvas. 
 
 New Paint for Floors. Stone, Wood, 
 and Brickwork. This new paint has 
 the advantage of saving oil and lacquer, 
 being simply a combination of glue, oil 
 paint, and lime, and for wooden floors 
 
 an addition of shellac and borax. To 
 prepare the ground mixture, soak 2 
 ounces of good light-colored glue for 
 12 hours in cold water, and dissolve it, 
 with constant stirring, in thick milk 
 of lime (prepared from 1 pound of 
 caustic lime) heated to the boiling 
 point. To the boiling glue stir in lin- 
 seed oil until it ceases to mix. About 
 8| fluid ounces of oil is sufficient for the 
 above proportions. Too much oil is 
 corrected by addition of lime paste. 
 Mix the above with any color not 
 affected by lime, and diluted with water 
 if needed. For yellow-brown or brown- 
 red colors, boil in the ground color i of 
 its volume of a solution of shellac and 
 borax, making an excellent paint for 
 wooden floors. 
 
 The mixture is easily applied, covers 
 well, and forms a durable combination 
 with any covering, and, as any desired 
 shade can be produced by an addition 
 of proper colors, it may often be sub- 
 stituted for more expensive paints. A 
 simple coat of varnish or lacquer gives 
 a beautiful lustre. 
 
 Water-proof Paint. Boil 2 gallons 
 of linseed oil with 11 ounces each of 
 rosin and litharge, li ounces each of 
 minium and umber, add gradually 8 
 ounces of sulphate of zinc and a solu- 
 tion of 12 ounces of potassium hydrate 
 and a like quantity of alum in 4 gal- 
 lons of water. For preparing the 
 ground color compound 10 pounds of 
 chalk and 2 pounds of zinc white with 
 I gallon of water, in which H ounces 
 of alum have been previously dissolved, 
 and mix with this a solution of li 
 pounds of glue in gallon of water. 
 This ground paint is mixed with 4 
 to 5 pounds of the above composition, 
 and the mixture diluted with petro- 
 leum. 
 
 Paint Suitable for Vessels, Sub- 
 marine Works, etc. A solution of 400 
 pounds of sulphate of copper is com- 
 pounded with 100 pounds of grape 
 sugar and a concentrated solution of 
 200 pounds of potash. The precipitate 
 of hydrated oxide of copper formed by 
 heating is filtered, carefully dried, and 
 mixed with 8 pounds of 75 per cent, 
 carbolic acid. The mass is then mod- 
 erately heated and about 12-gallons of 
 crude linseed oil added. When the 
 paint is to be used, it is reduced with 
 
264 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 linseed oil, and then applied. It is 
 claimed that it has a poisonous effect 
 upon animal and vegetable bodies de- 
 positing themselves on vessels or sub- 
 marine works. 
 
 Cheap and J)urable Paint for Brick- 
 work. Slake fresh-burnt lime to a 
 powder by sprinkling water upon it 
 and pass the powder through a sieve. 
 To 100 parts of this powder add suffi- 
 cient water to form a thin milk of lime 
 and boil it in a copper boiler, and add 
 1 part of bichromate of potassium. 
 Make a thin paste of sulphate of lead 
 with water and stir it in the boiling 
 mixture. Sugar of lead or the nitrate 
 of hydrochlorate of lead can be sub- 
 stituted for the sulphate of lead. Add 
 cold water to the mass and pass it 
 through a fine wire sieve, drain it off 
 through linen or cloth bags, and press 
 tho residue remaining in the bags. 
 After sufficient pressing break into 
 pieces and dry in the air. 
 
 To Prepare a Zinc Wash for Rooms. 
 Mix oxide of zinc with ordinary milk 
 of lime and apply the mixture in the 
 sarn,e manner as whitewash. When 
 dry lay on a coat of solution of chloride 
 of zinc. This combines with the oxide 
 and forms a solid coat with a lustrous 
 surface. 
 
 Durable Paint for Tin Roofs. Thirty 
 parts of linseed oil, 10 of oil of tur- 
 pentine, 14 of colcothar, and 46 of red 
 chalk. The coloring substances are 
 pulverized and the mixture ground. 
 Should the paint be too thick reduce 
 it with equal parts of oil of turpentine 
 and linseed oil. To protect the tin 
 thoroughly against atmospheric influ- 
 ences it is advisable to give it two 
 coats, allowing the first to dry before 
 applying the second. The coats must 
 be neither too thin nor too thick; a 
 principal condition being that the tin 
 is free from rust. 
 
 White Paint for Metallic Surfaces. 
 Pure, finely-powdered zinc white (ox- 
 ide of zinc) is mixed with a solution 
 of soda water-glass of 40 to 60 
 Beaume, to the right consistency far an 
 oil paint. The metallic surface t(| be 
 painted is thoroughly cleansed pnd 
 washed with hydrochloric acid, and 
 afterwards with water, and the paint 
 is laid on in successive coatings. Not 
 too much paint must be mixed at a 
 
 time, as it will become thick and dry 
 on standing, on account of chemical 
 combinations setting in. A surface 
 thus painted preserves a dazzling white 
 appearance. By adding mineral colors 
 various tints may be obtained. 
 
 Green Paint for Articles .Exposed to 
 the Action of the Weather, such as 
 Doors, Shutters, etc. Rub 2 parts of 
 white lead and 1 of verdigris with nut 
 oil or linseed oil varnish, mixed with 
 oil of turpentine, and dilute both colors 
 with ordinary drying oil. 
 
 Universal Paint. A decoction of 
 Brazil wood and flaxseed is mixed 
 with a solution of caoutchouc in lin- 
 seed oil and compounded with coloring 
 substances until a thick paste is formed. 
 It can be applied reduced with water 
 as well as with oil or lacquer. 
 
 Paintfor Outside Walls. Boil 1 pint 
 of clear linseed oil, 4} ounces of rosin, 
 and 3 ounces of litharge until the 
 wooden spatula used for Htirring be- 
 comes brown. Give the walls two or 
 three coats of this. It is best to do the 
 work on a hot summer's day. 
 
 Paint for Wood or Stone which resists 
 all moisture. Melt 12 ounces of rosin, 
 add and thoroughly mix with it 6 gal- 
 lons of fish oil and 1 pound of melted 
 sulphur, and some ochre or any 
 other coloring substance rubbed up 
 with linseed oil. Apply several coats 
 of the hot composition with a brush. 
 The first coat should be very thin. 
 
 Cheap White Paint for Outside 
 Work. Slake H pounds of burnt lime 
 with the necessary quantity of water; 
 then add 6i pounds of skimmed milk. 
 Dissolve 4i ounces of white Burgundy 
 pitch in 12 ounces of linseed oil ; add 
 this to the lime and milk, and finally 
 add 6 pounds of Spanish white to the 
 mixture. 
 
 Red Wash for Brick Floors and Pave- 
 ments. Wash the bricks with soap 
 water containing 2 V part of carbonate 
 of soi 'a. This cleanses the floor and 
 prepares it for the reception of the 
 wash. Then dissolve 1 part of glue in 
 16 of boiling water, add 4 parts of red 
 ochre, and stir the mass thoroughly to- 
 gether. Apply two coats of this to the 
 bricks, and then give a coat of linseed 
 oil varnish. 
 
 To Prevent Disintegration in Stone- 
 work. Apply the following solutions 
 
PAINTS AND PIGMENTS. 
 
 265 
 
 to the stonework by means of a water- 
 ing-pot provided with a rose. They 
 should be applied in such a manner 
 that they are uniformly distributed 
 and cannot run off. The solutions con- 
 sist of 
 
 \.ForMa-rble. One part of white shel- 
 lac and 8 of wood spirit. 
 
 2. Far Sandstone. One-half part of 
 shellac and 8 of wood spirit. 
 
 The shellac is broken into small 
 pieces and added to the wood spirit, 
 and the mixture allowed to stand for a 
 few days, being frequently stirred. . 
 
 To Make Stiil-cloth, Pliable, Durable, 
 and Water-proof. I. Moisten the sail- 
 cloth first with linseed oil ; ground it 
 with Spanish brown rubbed up with 
 linseed oil or rosin oil, and when this 
 is dry give it a coat with a paint pre- 
 pared from Spanish brown, lampblack, 
 linseed oil, and a sufficient quantity of 
 purified rosin oil. 
 
 II. Mix 96 parts of ochre with boil- 
 ing oil, add first 16 parts of lampblack, 
 and later on a solution of I part of yel- 
 low soap in 6 of water. Give the sail- 
 cloth a good coat of this mixture, and 
 repeat the operation 2 days later. 
 
 Swedish Paint, for Wood-work. Melt 
 3 parts of rosin, add '20 parts offish oil, 
 and heat until the mass is uniform. 
 Then stir 10 parts of rye flour into a 
 paste with 20 parts of water. Next dis- 
 solve 4 parts of sulphate of zinc in 9 of 
 boiling water. The 3 mixtures are 
 combined by stirring the flour paste 
 into the solution of sulphate of zinc, 
 and into this mixture the fish oil con- 
 taining the rosin. To obtain the desired 
 tint a suitable mineral color finely 
 ground is then added, when the paint 
 is ready for use. 
 
 Paint for Constructions of Iron. 
 Rolling-mill and hammer scale are 
 finely ground and washed, and then 
 stirred together with oil varnish. By 
 painting the iron work of bridges, etc., 
 with this composition, they will be thor- 
 oughly protected against rust. 
 
 Paraffine Paint. A solution of paraf- 
 fine in heavy coal-tar oil is excellent for 
 painting houses, and especially walls 
 exposed to the action of the weather. 
 Several experiments in painting damp 
 walls with this solution have given 
 very satisfactory results, ^yall paper, 
 Which, formerly became moist and de- 
 
 tached from the walls during rainy 
 weather, remained perfectly dry after 
 the wall had been painted with paraf- 
 fine. The solution of paraffine in heavy 
 coal-tar oil is prepared by dissolving 1 
 part of paraffine in 2 to 3 parts of coal- 
 tar oil at a moderate heat. A sufficient 
 quantity of oil must be used so that the 
 solution does not entirely congeal on 
 cooling. To heat the paint while ap- 
 plying it, place the vessel containing; 
 it in hot water. It is best to apply the 
 solution on a warm day when the bricks 
 are dry. Generally 1 coat is sufficient, 
 but even if 2 coats are given the cost is 
 considerably less than oil paint. 
 
 Quickly-drying Oil Paint. Boil for 
 15 minutes in an earthen-ware pot 1 part 
 of soft curd in 3 parts of water. Pour 
 the mass through a colander, wash it 
 with cold water, and press out the water 
 in a linen cloth. To 1 part of the curd 
 add i part of unslaked lime and J part 
 of water. The fat slime thus formed 
 is triturated in oil or water with the 
 various pigments. Walls, ceilings, 
 stairs, in short anything of stone, plaster 
 of Paris, or zinc, can be painted with 
 this. If the paint is to be used on wood, 
 add A part of linseed oil. Ochre, 
 chrome yellow, Berlin blue, indigo, 
 lead, and zinc, are best adapted for 
 coloring substances. The mixture dries 
 so quick that 3 coats can be applied in 
 1 day. It is entirely without odor and 
 costs about 4 of ordinary oil paint. 
 
 Paint for Hoofs. This paint consists 
 of a mi xtu re of 35 per cent, of pu 1 veri zed 
 slate (argillaceous schist), 30 per cent, 
 of pulverized mica slate (mica schist), 
 and 35 per cent, of pulverized rosin. 
 Compound this mixture with i its 
 volume of pure coal-tar and boil to a 
 fluid mass. This paint gives a very 
 durable and pliant coating, which does 
 not melt in the greatest heat of sum- 
 mer nor crack nor break in the great- 
 est cold. It resists moisture, retains its 
 lustre and smooth surface. It is not 
 necessary to repaint the roof for 4 or 5 
 years. 
 
 Paint on Wood exposed to the Action 
 of thit Weather. Mix 6 parts of un- 
 slaked lime and 1 part of coal dust, 
 both in a dry state, and then add suffi' 
 cient sour milk to form a mixture 
 which can be applied with a brush. 
 The color of the mixture is a light 
 
266 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 gray, but any desired tint can be ob- 
 tained by adding a mineral color. 
 This paint has been tested and can be 
 highly recommended for wood and 
 frame work. 
 
 Water-proof Paint for Metal. Dis- 
 solve 3 pounds of Venetian turpentine 
 and 1 pound of mastic in heated tur- 
 pentine. Then add to this solution 96 
 pounds of linseed-oil varnish, and heat 
 the whole in a water-bath until the 
 odor of oil of turpentine has disap- 
 peared. With 115 pounds of this var- 
 nish triturate 20 pounds of strongly- 
 burned clay, 80 pounds of best Portland 
 cement, 10 pounds of zinc white, and 
 5 pounds of red lead. When the whole 
 has been rubbed fine and intimately 
 mixed together add 25 pounds more of 
 oil of turpentine. 
 
 Coating for Blackboards. Dissolve 
 8 ounces of copal in 1 pound of ether, 
 and compound this with a solution of 
 2 pounds of shellac and 1 pound of 
 sandarac in 3i quarts of 90 per cent, 
 alcohol, and further with 5 ounces of 
 lampblack, If ounces of ultramarine, 
 
 1 ounce of Venetian turpentine, and 
 
 2 pounds of fine Naxos emery. This 
 mixture is applied with a brush to the 
 blackboard, and the coating, while 
 moist, ignited. As soon as the flame 
 is extinguished, a second coat is laid 
 on, which is not ignited but allowed to 
 dry. The board is then rubbed with 
 fine sand-paper, and, when cold, 
 washed. The board has a smooth sur- 
 face and can be written on with a slate- 
 pencil, and the writing washed oif with 
 a sponge. 
 
 To Protect the Bottoms of Ships and 
 other Articles under Water the follow- 
 ing mixture has been patented in Eng- 
 land: Sixty parts of alcohol, 9 of 
 shellac, 4 of rosin, 3 of Burgundy 
 pitch, 2 of soft galipot, 4 of arseniate 
 of copper, 3 of arseniate of mercury, 9 
 of chromate of mercury, and 6 of color- 
 ing substance. 
 
 Dryer for Oil Colors and Varnish, 
 Heat in a copper vessel 12 parts of 
 shellac and 4 of borax with 80 to 100 
 parts of water, when, after the mass 
 has become homogeneous, the vessel is 
 closed, and its contents, when cold, are 
 poured into flasks, which are kept 
 closely corked. This solution may be 
 used, as a quick-drying varnish, and 
 
 when mixed in equal weights with oil 
 colors it causes them to dry quickly. 
 
 To Prepare Dryers. Take 2 parts 
 of white lead, 1 of sulphuric acid, and 
 1 of sugar of lead, and rub them to a 
 paste in boiled linseed oil. This is used 
 as an addition to all mixed oil paints 
 except white, to dry them. White 
 lead, when mixed with this siccative, 
 assumes a dirty color. 
 
 Patent Dryer. Mix 15 parts of dried 
 sulphate of zinc, 4 of sugar of lead, and 
 7 of litharge with boiled oil, and pass 
 the mixture 3 or 4 times through a 
 color mill. Then mix 100 parts of 
 Paris white to a dough with 50 parts of 
 white lead and boiled oil, pass this 
 through a color mill, mix it with the 
 above, and rub the whole up once more. 
 The result will be 2000 parts. This is 
 mixed with the paint to make it dry 
 quickly. 
 
 Dryer for Zinc Paint. 6.66 parts 
 each of anhydrous sulphate of manga- 
 nese, anhydrous acetate of protoxide of 
 manganese, and anhydrous sulphate of 
 zinc, and 980 parts of zinc white. An 
 addition of 2 or 3 per cent, to zinc paint 
 suffices to dry it quickly. 
 
 Drying Oil. Boil together for 2 
 hours on a slow fire: ounce each 
 of litharge, calcined cerussite, um- 
 ber, and talc with l pints of linseed 
 oil, carefully stirring the whole time. 
 Skim and clarify the mixture. The 
 older it grows the better it is. One 
 gill is required to every 1 pound of 
 color. 
 
 To Paint Tiles Red. Cleanse the 
 pavement thoroughly with a brush 
 dipped in soap water, or water charged 
 with & part of carbonate of potassium. 
 When dry dissolve 1 pound of glue in 
 1 gallon of water. Boil the mixture, 
 and while boiling add 2 pounds of red 
 ochre and mix the whole. Then apply 
 a layer of this mixture to the pave- 
 ment, and when dry apply a second 
 layer with drying linseed oil, and a 
 third with the same red mixed up with 
 size. When the whole is dry rub it 
 with wax. 
 
 PIGMENTS. Black. Lampblack, the 
 most important of all blacks used in 
 painting, is produced from common 
 rosin or other bituminous substances. 
 A very superior black may be obtained 
 in the following manner , Ignite a lump 
 
PAINTS AND PIGMENTS. 
 
 267 
 
 of camphor and hold a saucer over the 
 flame to collect the soot, which, mixed 
 with gum-Arabic, makes a black supe- 
 rior to many India inks. Miniature 
 painters who use colors in small quanti- 
 ties sometimes obtain a most beautiful 
 and perfect black by using the buttons 
 which form on the snuff of a candle, 
 when allowed to burn undisturbed. 
 They are allowed to fall into a thimble 
 Which is immediately covered with the 
 thumb to exclude the air. This is 
 found to be perfectly free from grease, 
 and to possess every desirable quality. 
 
 Frankfort Black is produced on a 
 large scale in some districts of Ger- 
 many by calcining wine lees and tartar. 
 The operation is performed in large 
 cylindrical vessels having a vent in the 
 cover for escape of the smoke and 
 vapors which are evolved during the 
 process. When no more smoke is ob- 
 served the operation is finished. The 
 residuum in the vessels is then washed 
 several times in boiling water to ex- 
 tract the salts contained therein, and 
 finally reduced to the proper degree of 
 fineness by grinding it on porphyry. 
 
 Peach-stones, burned in a close vessel, 
 produce a carbon whroh, when ground 
 on porphyry, is employed in painting 
 to give an old gray. 
 
 Ivory Black can be produced on a 
 small scale by calcining ivory chips in 
 a covered crucible, having a small 
 aperture in the cover, until no smoke 
 is seen to escape. It is the most beau- 
 tiful black for painting in oil. The 
 commercial ivory black is generally 
 nothing but bone-black. 
 
 Brunswick Black. Melt 2 pounds of 
 asphaltum, then add U pints of hot- 
 boiled oil, and finally 1J quarts of tur- 
 pentine. It is used for painting iron 
 railings and other iron work, 
 
 Black from Coal Ashes and Blood. 
 Pass coal ashes through a fine sieve and 
 mix the sifted ashes with blood to a 
 thick paste, and dry it in the air or over 
 a fire to expel the water. Win; a en- 
 tirely dry the mixture is brought into 
 a drum resembling a coffee roaster, and 
 calcined uutil all organic parts in the 
 blood are thoroughly carbonized and 
 no more gas escapes through the joints 
 of the drum. It is then cooled, and 
 the lumpy substance remaining in the 
 drum taken out and ground to a fine 
 
 powder. This black is used in painting 
 outside walls, and may also be used in 
 the manufacture of lacquers and shoe- 
 blacking. 
 
 Berlin Blue. Mix 2 parts of alum 
 with 1 of sulphate of iron, and add 
 sufficient water to dissolve them. Then 
 prepare a solution of yellow prussiate 
 of potassium, add a little sulphuric 
 acid, and pour the mixture drop by 
 drop into the first solution until a pre- 
 cipitate is formed, which is washed 
 upon a filter and then dried. 
 
 Mountain Blue. First prepare a 
 genuine Brunswick green by dissolving 
 equal parts of sulphate of copper and 
 common salt in 6 to 8 parts of boiling 
 water, and dilute the solution with 30 
 parts more of cold water, filter the 
 turbid liquid and precipitate the oxide 
 of copper with milk of lime. After 24 
 hours remove the precipitate from the 
 fluid, wash it repeatedly in cold water, 
 and, after cutting it up in small cakes, 
 dry them. These small cakes, when 
 dry, are placed in fresh-prepared lime 
 paste, where they remain for 3 weeks, 
 being frequently carefully turned. The 
 lime is then diluted with water; the 
 cakes, which have assumed a beautiful 
 dark-blue color, are taken out, washed, 
 dried, and finally ground. 
 
 Ultramarine (Artificial). Mix 2 
 parts of pulverized verdigris, 1 of pow- 
 dered sal-ammoniac, and 1 of finest 
 white lead ; moisten the mixture with 
 some oil of tartar (Oleum tartari per 
 dcliquum), put the whole in a strong 
 glass, close it tight, and place it for 1 
 hour in a bake-oven. Then take it out, 
 rub the powder very fine, and preserve 
 it in a well-closed jar. 
 
 RobiqueCs Artificial Ultramarine Is 
 prepared by calcining 3 parts of porce- 
 lain clay in a covered crucible for 1 
 hour, together with 4i parts of sulphur 
 and 4 parts of carbonate of sodium per- 
 fectly dry and thoroughly calcined, 
 until no more vapors escape, and a 
 sample taken from the crucible has a 
 greenish appearance, The caked com- 
 pound is then exposed to the air for 24 
 hours, when the color will change to 
 blue. It is then lixiviated and the 
 residue dried, and the latter again ex- 
 posed in a crucible to a strong heat. 
 In this manner 3i parts of pure ultra 
 marine are obtained. 
 
268 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Carmine. Pulverize 5i pounds of 
 cochineal and i ounce of alum, and 
 boil them in a tinned copper boiler 
 with distilled or rain water for i hour; 
 then filter the color through a clean 
 cloth, and add solution of tin, drop by 
 drop, as long as a precipitate is formed 
 in the warm liquid. After the carmine 
 has been entirely precipitated wash it 
 with clean water and dry it between 
 
 2 porcelain plates in an airy room but 
 not too warm. The residue can be r used 
 for Florentine lake. 
 
 Carmine Lake. Digest at a moderate 
 heat 2 ounces of ground cochineal with 
 
 3 pints of distilled water, and then add, 
 with constant stirring, 1 drachm of 
 alum, li fluid drachms of solution of 
 tin, and 1 drachm of pure soda dis- 
 solved in water. Let the whole stand 
 for 2 days, then separate the sediment, 
 wash, and dry it. 
 
 Florentine Lake. Boil 4 parts of cochi- 
 neal and 12 of alum with a sufficient 
 quantity of water, then strain and add 
 to the hot decoction a solution of pot- 
 ash as long as a precipitate is formed. 
 The latter is washed, filtered, formed 
 into balls, and dried. 
 
 Green JBorate of Copper for Oil and 
 Porcelain Paint nig. Dissolve sepa- 
 rately 16 parts of sulphate of copper 
 and 24 of borax in the requisite quan- 
 tity of water, mix both solutions by 
 stirring them thoroughly together, col- 
 lect the pale-green precipitate upon a 
 filter, wash with cold water, and dry, 
 first at an ordinary temperature and 
 then with the aid of heat, and finally 
 rub the powder fine. 
 
 Chrome-green. I. Pulverize 1 part 
 of bichromate of potassium, li of sal- 
 ammoniac, and 1 of carbonate of potas- 
 sium^ Mix the powders intimately, 
 calcine them in a Hessian crucible, 
 and wash the residue. 
 
 II. Pulverize 240 parts of bichromate 
 of potassium and 5 of sal-ammoniac. 
 Mix the powders intimately with 48 
 parts of gunpowder and form a cone 
 of the mix ture. Ignite the point of the 
 cone, let it gradually burn down, and 
 put the hot residue in water, where the 
 green oxide will settle on the bottom 
 of the vessel. 
 
 Chrome-green for Painting. Pulver- 
 ize and mix 19 parts of bichromate of 
 potassium and 4 of sulphur. Calcine 
 
 | the mixture for | hour, and, when cold, 
 ' pulverize the compound and treat it 
 with water. In this way 9i parts of a 
 beautiful chrome-green are obtained. 
 
 Innoxious Green Color. Digest fof 
 a few days 25 grains of best saffron 
 with 3 fluid ounces of distilled water, 
 and, when the saffron is thoroughly ex- 
 tracted, filter the solution and niix it 
 intimately with one of 25 grains of 
 indigo carmine in 1 pint of distilled 
 water. This gives a beautiful green 
 color of great intensity. 
 
 Mineral Green. Put whiting or lime 
 into a vat and pour solution of nitrate 
 of copper upon it; stir thoroughly and 
 allow the whole to settle. Then pour 
 off the supernatant liquid and add more 
 solution. Repeat this operation until 
 the desired tint is attained. 
 
 Neuwied Green. Dissolve 16 parts 
 of sulphate of copper in hot water, and 
 add a solution of 3 parts of pulverized 
 white arsenic in the necessary quantity 
 of hot water. Allow it to stand for 24 
 hours, then pour oft' the clear liquid, 
 and add, with constant stirring, milk 
 oi'lime prepared from 3 parts of quick- 
 lime. The green precipitate which is 
 formed is washed and dried. 
 
 Paris Green or tichcele's Green. An 
 arsenite of sodium is formed by adding 
 arsenic to carbonate of sodium dissolved 
 in boiling water; next sulphate of cop- 
 per is dissolved in water; both solu- 
 tions are filtered and the first is poured 
 gradually into the second as long as it 
 produces a rich grass-green precipitate. 
 This is thrown upon a filter and cleansed 
 by washing away all particles soluble 
 in water, and is then dried and pulver- 
 ized. 
 
 This pigment is highly poisonous. 
 It is very transparent, works badly 
 under the brush, and covers badly ; but 
 its color is so brilliant that all other 
 greens become dingy brown in contrast 
 with it, and for this reason it is fre- 
 quently used. 
 
 Schweinfurth Green as made in 
 Schweinfnrth. Dissolve 100 parts of 
 white arsenic in 1500 of hot water ; next 
 dissolve 70 parts of verdigris, coarsely 
 powdered, in 300 of boil-ing water. As 
 soon as the arsenious solution is thor- 
 oughly boiled, and the verdigris paste 
 has acquired a temperature of 190 F., 
 of the arsenious solution is intimately 
 
PAINTS AND PIGMENTS. 
 
 269 
 
 mixed with the verdigris solution and 
 the whole allowed to stand for 3 hours. 
 The mixture is then thoroughly stirred 
 and the rest of the arsenious solution 
 added. In the course of 2 or 3 hours 
 the precipitate begins to form, and 
 thin films of a beautiful green color 
 are seen upon the surface of the com- 
 pound, the precipitate finally settling 
 on the bottom. The liquid portion 
 is then drawn off, the precipitate col- 
 lected, washed with water, dried, and 
 sifted. 
 
 Verdigris, a union of oxide of copper 
 and acetic acid, is produced by exposing 
 small sheets of copper to the action of 
 vinegar in the following manner : The 
 refuse of grapes, after the extraction of 
 the juice, is placed in earthen vessels, 
 which are covered with lids and sur- 
 rounded with straw mats. The mate- 
 rials soon become heated, and fermen- 
 tation, beginning on the bottom, rises 
 until it permeates the whole mass. At 
 the end of 2 or 3 days the fermenting 
 materials are removed to other ves- 
 sels in order to check the process, to 
 prevent putrefaction. The copper plates 
 are prepared Ly rubbing them with a 
 cloth dipped in" a solution of verdigris, 
 and then allowed to dry. When the 
 materials are all found to be in proper 
 condition, the plates are laid on a hor- 
 izontal wooden grating in the middle 
 of a vat, on the bottom of which is 
 placed a pan of burning charcoal, 
 which heats them to a certain degree. 
 In this state they are put into earthen 
 vessels, with alternate layers of the fer- 
 menting grape lees ; the vessels are cov- 
 ered with straw mats and left at rest. 
 At the end of 10 or 15 days they are 
 opened to ascertain if the operation is 
 completed. If detached glossy crystals 
 are perceived on the surface the lees 
 are thrown away and the plates are 
 placed upright in a cellar, one against 
 the other. At the end of 2 or 3 days 
 they are moistened by being dipped "in 
 wafer, which is continued at intervals 
 from time to time. This treatment 
 causes the plates to swell, to become 
 green, and be covered with a layer of 
 verdigris. This is scraped off, pressed 
 in paper sacks, dried by exposure to 
 sun and air, and becomes the verdigris 
 of commerce. 
 
 Indigo Carmine, Dissolve 2J pounds 
 
 of indigo ground as finely as possible in 
 13J pounds of sulphuric acid. Then 
 add 4 gallons of water and next a solu- 
 tion of potash of 15 Beaume until effer- 
 vescence ceases. It is then washed with 
 water and allowed to settle, this being 
 repeated until every trace of acid is re- 
 moved. The paste is kept in glazed 
 pots well covered. 
 
 Chrome-red. Ten pounds of yellow 
 chromate of potassium and 20 pounds 
 of pure white lead. The white lead is 
 first ground as fine as possible in water. 
 The chromate of potassium is then care- 
 fully dissolved in 25 gallons of boiling 
 hot water and the white lead stirred 
 into the boiling solution. The whole 
 is then boiled, the water lost by evapo- 
 ration being constantly replaced until 
 no more white spots appear upon the 
 surface. The liquid portion is then 
 quickly poured off and the residue 
 thrown upon a filter. The manipula- 
 tion must be carried on as quickly as 
 possible lest the color should become 
 too light. 
 
 Cassel Yellow. Heat a mixture of 
 
 10 parts of litharge finely prepared and 
 1 of sal-ammoniac in a Hessian crucible 
 until it melts ; then pour the mass into 
 a mould, powder the pieces when cold, 
 and grind fine in a color mill. 
 
 American Chrome-yellou'. 
 
 PARTS. 
 * ^ 
 
 I. II. III. 
 
 Crystallised sugar of lead . . 2i 21 21 
 
 Jliclnx mate of potassium ..44 4 
 
 Alum 20 . 20 20 
 
 1 1 envy spar 10 15 20 
 
 Oypsuiu 
 
 Dissolve the alftm in hot water and 
 pour the hot solution into a tub con- 
 taining the heavy spar and gypajm, 
 previously passed through a fine sieve ; 
 then wash the whole gradually and 
 carefully five times. In the meanwhile 
 dissolve the sugar of lead and bichro- 
 mate of potassium in separate vessels, 
 and then stir the ehromate solution very 
 slowly into the solution of sugar of 
 lead. When all is settled, wash with 
 fresh water, repeating this 3 or 4 times. 
 Finally mix and mingle the two pre- 
 cipitates carefully and very intimately, 
 wash twice, and throw the finished pro- 
 duct upon a filter. It is customary to 
 spread the residue without pressing 
 
270 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL EECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 upon drying boards, to cut it, when half 
 dry, into square pieces, which, when 
 entirely dry, fall off of their own ac- 
 cord. The boards should be placed in 
 a room secured from dust and dirt. 
 But the pigment dried in this manner 
 requires polishing. This is accom- 
 plished by filling a bag made of strong 
 ticking about i with cakes, tying it, 
 and two persons, catching hold on 
 opposite ends, shaking the bag vigor- 
 ously, whereby the cakes, rubbing 
 against each other, acquire a gloss. 
 The yellow dust falling through is col- 
 lected and added to inferior qualities. 
 
 Baltimore Chrome-yellow. Sugar of 
 lead 40 pounds, vinegar i gallon, bichro- 
 mate of potassium 8 pounds, Roman 
 alum 40 pounds, Klagenfurt chalk 20 
 pounds. First elutriate the chalk 
 through a fine sieve with about 25 gal- 
 lons of water. Then mix with it the 
 alum dissolved in about 30 gallons of 
 hot water, stir constantly, and finally 
 wash carefully with water 4 or 5 times. 
 Now dissolve the sugar of lead in 25 
 gallons of hot water, stir the solution 
 into the above compound, and at the 
 same time the k gallon of vinegar. 
 Somewhat later dissolve the chromate 
 of potassium in 25 gallons of hot water, 
 and add this solution to the rest. The 
 further treatment is as given for Ameri- 
 can chrome-yellow. 
 
 French Chrome-yellow (Spooner's). 
 Bologne chalk 17J pounds, alum 35J 
 pounds, sugar of lead 48i pounds, red 
 chloride of potassium 8| pounds. This 
 is prepared in the same manner as 
 Baltimore chrome-yellow; the cakes 
 are stamped " Spooner " with a wooden 
 stamp. 
 
 Paris Chrome-yellow. 
 
 
 F. 
 
 FF. 
 
 Sugar of lead . . . 
 Bichromate of 
 potassium .... 
 Heavy spar .... 
 Sulphate of lead . . 
 Bologne chalk 
 
 10 parts. 
 
 3 " 
 10 " 
 20 " 
 
 10 parts. 
 
 3 " 
 10 " 
 25 " 
 10 " 
 
 Elutriate the sulphate of lead, heavy 
 spar, and chalk through a fine sieve into 
 a vat, draw off the lye and wash twice. 
 The sugar of lead and bichromate are 
 dissolved in the same manner as given 
 above, and then poured in succession 
 into the vat. The mixture is com- 
 
 
 I. 
 
 II. 
 
 III. 
 
 IV. 
 
 V. 
 
 VI. 
 
 Parts. 
 
 Antimonic 
 acid . . . 
 Plumbic 
 oxide . . 
 Zinc oxide . 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 pounded with as much fresh water as 
 possible, which, when all is settled, is 
 drawn off. The product is then thrown 
 upon a filter, and as soon as it is prac- 
 ticable formed into small cones. 
 
 Naples Yellow ( Various Shades). 
 
 Patent Yellow. Grind 1 part of salt 
 and 4 of litharge in water, wash out 
 the carbonate of sodium and heat the 
 residue until it has acquired a beauti- 
 ful yellow color. 
 
 Vandyke Red. Prussiate of potash 
 25 parts, spirit of sal-ammoniac 2.5 
 parts, and sulphate of copper 15:5. 
 The prussiate of potash is dissolved in 
 hot water and carefully compounded 
 with the spirit of sal-ammoniac, and 
 the whole allowed to stand for some 
 time. The sulphate of copper is in the 
 meanwhile dissolved in another vessel 
 and then slowly and with constant stir- 
 ring added to the prussiate of potash. 
 The pigment is then allowed to settle, 
 and the liquid portion drawn off and 
 the residue washed and rewashed with 
 clean water, and then thrown upon a 
 filter, where it should be dried as quickly 
 as possible. 
 
 Innoxious Colors for Painting Toys, 
 a. White. Calcined magnesia is used 
 by itself as well as in connection with 
 other colors. It should be thoroughly 
 calcined, as otherwise it becomes gray 
 when mixed with hot glue water, or in 
 varnishing. 
 
 b. Mix thoroughly fine chalk 4 parts, 
 calcined magnesia 2, with a few drops 
 of solution of indigo. 
 
 c. The solution of indigo is prepared 
 .by mixing part of indigo finely pul- 
 verized with 1 part of concentrated 
 fuming sulphuric acid. 
 
 d. A cheaper white is prepared by 
 using Berlin blue in place of indigo so- 
 lution. 
 
 e. Chrome-yellow. Take any desired 
 quantity of d and a few drops of ex- 
 
PAINTS AND PIGMENTS. 
 
 271 
 
 tract of saffron, and add concentrated 
 aqueous decoction of Avignon berries 
 until the desired shade is obtained. 
 
 The decoction of Avignon berries is 
 obtained by pouring hot water over 
 the berries and adding some alum or 
 common salt. 
 
 /. Yellowish-green. Take equal quan- 
 tities of Dutch pink and white given 
 under b. 
 
 g. Golden-yellow. Take any desired 
 quantity of white given under d, and 
 compound it with aqueous extract of 
 saffron until the desired shade is ob- 
 tained. 
 
 h. Yellowish-red. Mix 1 part of red 
 chalk and 4 of Dutch pink with some 
 liquid glue. 
 
 i. Brownish-red. Mix equal parts 
 of red chalk and round lake with some 
 hot glue water. 
 
 k. Black-brown. Mix 6 parts of red 
 chalk with 1 of calcined lampblack. 
 
 I. Vermilion. Take any desired 
 quantity of carmine and mix it with a 
 few drops of concentrated extract of 
 saffron and some hot glue water. 
 
 m. Rose-red. Mix 1 part of round 
 lake and 2 of white given under d. 
 
 n. Flesh-color. Mix 4 parts of cal- 
 cined magnesia with 1 of extract of 
 rhubarb, prepared by boiling part of 
 rhubarb in 3 of hot water. 
 
 o. Violet. Mix 4 parts of round lake 
 and 1 of indigo with some hot glue 
 water. 
 
 p. Violet-red. Mix 8 parts of round 
 lake and 1 of indigo. 
 
 q. Blue. Use indigo and Berlin 
 blue mixed with white given under d. 
 
 r. Gray. Take 12 parts of white 
 given under d, \ of indigo, and J of 
 calcined lampblack. 
 
 s. Imperial Green. Take 6 parts of 
 decoction of Avignon berries, of in- 
 digo, and 1 of white given under d. 
 
 t. Light Green. Mix 1 part of so- 
 lution of saffron with 3 of white given 
 under d. 
 
 u. Dark Green. Mix 6 parts of 
 Dutch pink and i of indigo. 
 
 All the above colors are calculated 
 as water colors, and, when dry, are 
 coated with a -fright mastic varnish. 
 
 Colors which,* on account of the. 
 Poisonous Qualities, should not be used 
 for Painting Toys or in Coloring Ar- 
 ticles of ffood. Blue : Mountain blue, 
 
 mineral mountain blue, imperial blue, 
 protoxide of cobalt, Berlin blue con- 
 taining zinc or copper, Bremen blue, 
 ash-blue (zaffer), silver-blue, Vienna, 
 blue. 
 
 Brown: Terra di sienna, and the 
 colors mentioned under red mixed with 
 black. 
 
 Green: Verdigris; Brunswick green ; 
 mountain green; Swedish green; 
 Scheele's green ; Vienna, Schweinfurth, 
 Paris, and Berlin green ; green bronze; 
 imperial green; English and Cassel 
 green ; chrome-green, cobalt green, min- 
 eral green, Naples^ green, Neuwied 
 green ; and every mixture of the colors 
 mentioned under blue and yellow. 
 
 Metallic Colors : Metallic gold, me- 
 tallic silver, Dutch gold, silver leaf, 
 gold bronze, silver bronze, copper bronze, 
 and red antimony. 
 
 Orange : Mixtures of the colors given 
 under red and yellow. 
 
 Bed: Cinnabar, minium, protoxide 
 of copper, chrome-red, English red; 
 mineral red. 
 
 Violet: Mixtures of the above blue 
 and red colors. 
 
 White : White lead, Kremnitz white, 
 flake-white, heavy spar, zinc white. 
 
 Yellow : Orpiment, imperial yellow, 
 Cassel yellow, Naples yellow, massicot, 
 English yellow, mineral yellow, chrome- 
 yellow, gamboge, yellow bronze, Paris 
 yellow. 
 
 Artists' Colors and for Restoring 
 Pictures. The following 13 colors are 
 the most important for artists: Vene- 
 tian or Kremnitz white ; light ochre, 
 dark ochre, burnt light ochre, burnt 
 dark ochre, sienna, burnt sienna, umber, 
 burnt umber, Cologne earth ; ivory 
 black, fine Parisian blue, red cinna- 
 bar. These pigments suffice for almost 
 all modern painting, but some of the 
 old masters used special colors, and to 
 imitate them closely the following pig- 
 ments will have to be used: Naples 
 yellow, Florentine or Vienna lake, 
 minium, ultramarine, green Verona 
 earth, cobalt blue, brown Munich lake. 
 
 Kremnitz or Venetian White is a 
 chemical compound prepared from lead 
 and vinegar, requires no oil varnish, 
 and dries easily in poppy or nut oil. 
 
 Light Ochre, a native pigment, re- 
 quires oil varnish for drying, as also 
 Dark Ochre. 
 
272 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMIOAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Light Burnt Ochre has lost its pecul- 
 iar fatty constituents by calcining, and 
 requires only to be ground in poppy- 
 seed or nut oil. 
 
 Dark Burnt Ochre requires some oil 
 varnish for drying. 
 
 Sienna also requires an addition of 
 oil varnish. 
 
 Burnt Sienna requires only to be 
 ground in poppy-seed or nut oil. 
 
 Umber is to be ground in poppy -seed 
 oil, as also Burnt Umber. 
 
 Cologne Earth is ground in oil var- 
 nish, it being very difficult to dry. By 
 calcining this earth it becomes darker 
 and loses its fatty constituents. 
 
 Ivory Black dries very easily in nut 
 or poppy-seed oil. 
 
 Parisian Blue is ground in poppy- 
 seed or nut oil. 
 
 Cinnabar requires some oil varnish, 
 as it does not dry well in poppy-seed 
 oil alone. 
 
 Naples Yellow does not dry without 
 oil varnish. 
 
 Fine Vienna Lake is ground in oil 
 varnish, as also Florentine lake. 
 
 Mini ant is ground in poppy-seed oil. 
 
 Ultramarine is ground in oil var- 
 nish. 
 
 Verona Earth is ground in oil var- 
 nish, as also cobalt blue and brown 
 Jfunich lake. 
 
 WATER COLORS : Deep Black. I. Boil 
 2i ounces of calcined lampblack in 1 
 pint of water ; take the liquid from the 
 fire, skim it and add ^ ounce of finely 
 pulverized indigo. Let the mixture 
 boil until the greater part of the water 
 is evaporated, stirring constantly, and 
 finally mix it with ounce of gum- 
 Arabic, | drachm of glue, and 
 drachm of extract of cichory. Boil the 
 whole to a thick paste and shape this 
 into cakes in moulds oiled with nut oil 
 or oil of almonds. 
 
 II. Dissolve horn shavings in caustic 
 potash lye to saturation, evaporate the 
 dark-brown fluid and boil it in an iron 
 boiler to a pasty mass. Now dissolve 
 it in double its* weight of water, and 
 compound it with solution of alum. 
 A black precipitate is formed, which 
 is washed, dried, and ground with gum 
 water. 
 
 Blue. Boil up, several times, 33 parts 
 of Berlin blue, ground fine in rain- 
 water, to which a few drops of hydro- 
 
 chloric acid have been added. When 
 the color has settled, pour oft' the super- 
 natant fluid, and mix the sediment with 
 16.5 parts of gum-Arabic and 8,2 of 
 glue with a little water, and let the 
 whole evaporate at a moderate heat to 
 a plastic paste, which is moulded into 
 cakes. 
 
 Indigo Blue. Add some white lead 
 to indigo, grind both very fine, and 
 then proceed in the same manner as 
 given for blue, 
 
 Green. Grind 8 ounces of verdigris 
 in milk, and let it digest 24 hours in 
 strong wine vinegar, together with 4 
 ounces of pulverized tartar, and then 
 boil the compound down to one-half 
 its volume. After standing for L'4 
 hours, pour the fluid into a bottle. 
 This is used for mixing, any desired 
 tints being produced by combining it 
 with indigo, sap-green, and saffron. 
 
 Red. Grind either Vienna lake, car- 
 mine, cinnabar, or minium, in some 
 gum-Arabic and water, and dry the 
 color. 
 
 Violet Blue. Crush ripe bilberries 
 and press the juice into a new pot, let 
 it boil, add a small wineglassful of 
 vinegar and f ounce of alum, strain the 
 color and evaporate it to the proper 
 consistency in a porcelain dish. 
 
 Yellow. Boil thoroughly a hand- 
 ful of yellow buckthorn berries in 1 
 pint of water, add some alum and 8 
 grains of rock salt. Evaporate the 
 whole to of its volume, then strain 
 through a cloth, compound the filtrate 
 with some gum-Arabic, and let it dry 
 in moulds. 
 
 White. Grind Kremnitz white to a 
 fine paste in a strong solution of gum- 
 Arabic, then grind it once more in 
 mucilage, and put the paste in moulds 
 to dry. 
 
 8<ip Red. Boil Brazil wood 4 times 
 with soft water, collecting each decoc- 
 tion in a wooden tub, and let them stand 
 in it for 4 days. Then draw off the 
 supernatant fluid, put this also in a tub, 
 and add tin-solution free from iron until 
 all the coloring matter is precipitated. 
 Collect the precipitate upon a cloth 
 and, without washing, let it drain off to 
 a stiff paste. Put 3 pounds of this 
 paste in a porcelain dish and, with con- 
 stant stirring, add 4V fluid ounces of 
 caustic ammonia until the mass is Uis- 
 
PAPER AND PAPER MATERIALS. 
 
 273 
 
 solved. Compound the intensely dark- 
 red tiuid with H pounds of gum- Arabic 
 and 8J ounces of white sugar, and suffi- 
 cient wheat flour to give it the proper 
 consistency. 
 
 Painting with Sympathetic Colors dif- 
 fers from other painting only as regards 
 the colors used, which are simply me- 
 tallic solutions possessing the property 
 to appear only when the picture is sub- 
 jected to a moderate heat, and disap- 
 pearing again on cooling. 
 
 It is best to choose for this kind of 
 painting a winter landscape, executed 
 in water colors. Buildings, if such are 
 represented in the landscape, are col- 
 ored with ordinary water colors with 
 the exception of the roofs, which are 
 
 painted with a sympathetic color mixed 
 from purple-red^ yellow, and some blue. 
 All the rest of the scenery is painted 
 with svmpathetic colors. The sky is 
 colored blue; mountains, meadows, 
 leaves, etc., with the desired tints of 
 green, etc. To liven up the picture a 
 few flowers may be painted in the fore- 
 ground. The painting as mentioned 
 must be executed in a warm room. On 
 carrying the colored picture into a cold 
 room the metallic colors disappear 
 gradually; the sky loses its summer 
 blue, the cold wintery sky again tak- 
 ing its place, the mountains, meadows, 
 trees, etc., seem to be covered with 
 snow, and so on. On exposing the 
 picture again to a moderate heat the 
 scene is changed in a moment to a 
 beautiful summer landscape. 
 
 Preparation of the Colors used. 
 Purple Red. Dissolve 1 part of co- 
 baltic oxide in 3 of nitric acid. It is 
 best, in order to promote the reaction 
 of the acid, to do this in a matrass ex- 
 posed to heat. When the solution is 
 complete, add basic carbonate of potas- 
 sium as long as a dirty-gray precipitate 
 is formed, and cease immediately on the 
 precipitate assuming a purple-red color. 
 Then dilute the solution with 6 parts of 
 water, filter it, and add some gum. 
 
 Rose Red. Dissolve 1 partof'cobaltic 
 oxide in 3 of nitric acid, and when the 
 solution is complete evaporate to dry- 
 ness to expel the acid ; then acid 1 part 
 of nitrate of potassium and dilute the 
 whole with 8 parts of water. The re- 
 sulting rose-red color is filtered and 
 mixed with some gum. 
 18 
 
 Yellow. Dissolve brown cupric oxide 
 in hydrochloric acid, assisting the ac- 
 tion of the acid with heat. The solu- 
 tion is olive-green, and by evaporation 
 furnishes grass-green crystals. Dis- 
 solve 1 part of these crystals in 8 of 
 water, and add a little gum. 
 
 Green. Pulverize 1 part of cobalt, 
 place the powder in a matrass and add 
 4 parts of aqua regia. Digest the mixt- 
 ure at a moderate heat ; then add 1 
 part of common salt and dilute with 16 
 parts of water. Filter the fluid, and 
 when it is to be used mix it with a 
 little gum. 
 
 Blue. Pulverize 1 part of cobalt, 
 and heat in a matrass with 2 of nitric 
 acid. When the cobalt is dissolved 
 pour the solution into a vessel and 
 gradually add solution of potash until 
 precipitation ceases. Let the mixture 
 stand quietly for some time, then pour 
 off the clear fluid and wash the residue 
 entirely free from acid with water. Let 
 the precipitate drain off, and then dis- 
 solve it at a moderate heat in acetic acid, 
 adding the latter in small portions until 
 a saturated fluid is obtained. This solu- 
 tion, mixed with a little gum, is used 
 as a blue color. 
 
 Painter's Cream. Painters, who have 
 long intervals between their periods of 
 labor, are accustomed to cover the parts 
 they have painted with a preparation 
 which preserves the freshness of the 
 colors, and which they can remove on 
 resuming work. This preparation is 
 as follows : Clear nut oil 1 gill, pulver- 
 ized mastic in tears i ounce, and pulver- 
 ized acetate of lead i ounce. Dissolve 
 the mastic in oil over a gentle fire, and 
 pour the mixture into a marble mortar 
 over the pulverized acetate of lead ; 
 stir it with a wooden pestle, and add 
 water in small quantities until the com- 
 pound assumes the appearance and con- 
 sistency of cream, and refuses to admit 
 more water. 
 
 PAPER AND PAPER MATERIALS, MAN- 
 UFACTURE, STAINING, ETC. GLASS, 
 SAND, AND EMERY PAPER. 
 
 Preparation of the different kinds 
 of Straw used in the Manufacture of 
 Paper. The straw must be cleansed 
 from all weeds; it is then cut up in 
 
274 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 pieces from 4 to J inch long, and freed 
 from the hard parts, especially the knots. 
 It is then softened by boiling in water 
 and converted by a machine into half- 
 stuff, which is boiled in lye prepared 
 from potash and lime, and then worked 
 into pulp and finished paper. 
 
 The most tender straw used in the 
 manufacture of paper is that of oats, 
 next that of barley, wheat, and finally 
 rye. Maize straw is prepared from the 
 leaves and is even more tender than oats 
 straw. The time for boiling depends 
 on the hardness of the material, as also 
 the strength of the lye, and the pre- 
 liminary labor which may have been 
 bestowed on the material. 
 
 Corn Leaves and Stalks are placed in 
 lye containing, for 100 pounds of mate- 
 rial, 40 pounds of lime and 1 pound of 
 potash ; the straw remains in the lye 
 for 3 hours. 
 
 Oats Straw. For 100 pounds of 
 straw a lye is required containing 50 
 pounds of lime and 2 pounds of potash. 
 Time : 3 hours. 
 
 Barley Straw is first boiled for 3 
 hours in water and then brought into 
 a lye containing, for every 100 pounds 
 of straw, 50 pounds of lime and 2 
 pounds of potash. It is then brought 
 into a second lye consisting of 30 to 40 
 pounds of lime and 1 pound of potash. 
 Time in each lye 3 hours. 
 
 Wheat Straw is first boiled for 3 
 hours in water and then placed con- 
 secutively in 3 lyes, remaining in each 
 for 3 hours. The first lye consists of 50 
 pounds of lime and 2 pounds of potash, 
 and the last two of 30 pounds of lime 
 and 1 pound of potash. 
 
 Rye Straw, being very hard, must 
 first be boiled in water for 3 hours, and 
 then successively for the same time in 
 four different lyes of the same strength 
 as those for wheat straw. 
 
 Process of Gaining Fibrous Sub- 
 stance from different Plants. The 
 plants are cleaned and cut in small 
 pieces and impregnated with caustic 
 soda-lye of 1 Beaume, then subjected 
 to hydrostatic pressure. The lye dis- 
 solves the silica, coloring matter, pec- 
 tine, etc., contained in the raw mate- 
 rial, and, in consequence of the press- 
 ure, penetrates energetically into the 
 pores of the fibres, swelling and burst- 
 ing the latter. The effect is still further 
 
 increased by abating, after the opera lion 
 is finished, the pressure in the boiler 
 while the lye is drawn off. The mate- 
 rial is then worked into half-stuff or 
 converted into a fibre which can be 
 spun. 
 
 Transformation of Woolly Fibre. By 
 submitting substances containing wool 
 to a current of steam of 300 F. with 
 a pressure of 5 atmospheres the woolly 
 fibre is so changed that it melts, and in 
 this state collects in the lower part of 
 the boiler, while cotton, linen, and all 
 other vegetable fibres remain unaltered. 
 The latter are now suitable for the 
 manufacture of paper, while the soluble 
 matter, called " ozotine " by the in- 
 ventor of the process, furnishes a very 
 valuable substance rich in oxygen, 
 which will without doubt be useful for 
 many technical purposes. 
 
 Paper for Documents, Chech, etc. To 
 make an alteration in the writing or 
 printing by the use of acid, chloride of 
 lime, or alkali easily perceptible the 
 following ingredients are added to the 
 pulp : 0.75 per cent, of iodide of potas- 
 sium, 1 per cent, of starch, 2 per cent, 
 of sulphate or carbonate of manganese, 
 and 2 per cent, of sulphate or carbonate 
 of lead. The compound can be applied 
 to the finished paper with a brush. 
 
 Improved Cigarette Paper. Tobacco 
 leaves are ground to an impalpable 
 powder which is sifted in a box upon a 
 moistened sheet of cigarette paper. The 
 sheet thus prepared is covered with 
 another sheet, and brought under a 
 press. Other sheets treated in the same 
 manner are placed upon these and the 
 whole finally subjected to strong press- 
 ure, whereby the tobacco-powder is 
 intimately united with the moist paper. 
 After remaining in the press for 12 to 
 24 hours the paper is removed and is 
 ready for use. By a suitable mixture 
 the color, flavor, and smell of the 
 various kinds of tobacco can be success- 
 fully imitated. Paper thus prepared 
 burns uniformly, never on one side 
 only, and does not char. 
 
 Safety Paper. To prevent erasures 
 and alterations it has for some time 
 been customary in France to color 
 paper pulp with green ultramarine, 
 and to execute the writing with diluted 
 hydrochloric acid or solution of alum, 
 producing white characters upon the 
 
PAPER AND PAPER MATERIALS. 
 
 275 
 
 green ground. Some English bankers 
 use paper colored with litmus, upon 
 which are printed ornamental lines 
 with oxalic acid. These lines of course 
 are red, but as soon as an attempt is 
 made to remove the ink with acid the 
 entire ground becomes red. If it is 
 sought to revivify the blue by means of 
 alkalies, the ornamental lines also as- 
 sume a blue color. 
 
 Cork Paper, patented in America by 
 H. Felt & Co., is prepared by coating 
 one side of a thick, soft, and flexible 
 
 covering 
 
 cork lightly rolled on. The material 
 is used for packing glass, bottles, etc. 
 
 Wrapping Paper for Silver Ware. 
 The appearance of silver ware is fre- 
 quently injured by being exposed to air 
 containing sulphuretted hydrogen or 
 sulphurous and other acids. The small 
 quantity of sulphuretted hydrogen con- 
 tained in illuminating gas and which 
 in burning yields sulphurous acid is fre- 
 quently sufficient to spoil the appear- 
 ance of all the articles in a store. To 
 prevent this a prepared paper is rec- 
 ommended. Prepare a solution of 6 
 parts of caustic soda in water of 20 
 Beaume, then add 4 of zinc oxide and 
 let the mixture boil for 2 hours, if pos- 
 sible under a pressure of 5 atmospheres. 
 Dilute the solution, when clear, to 10 
 Beaume, and it is ready for impreg- 
 nating the paper. 
 
 Preparation of Parchment Paper. 
 Dilute strong sulphuric acid with i its 
 volume of water, and allow it to cool to 
 about 65 F. Then immerse unsized 
 paper in the cold acid for 10 to 50 
 seconds according to its thickness. 
 When the acid has acted a sufficient 
 length of time, the paper is first well 
 washed in cold running water, then 
 dipped in dilute ammonia, again 
 washed in water, and finally dried. 
 When it is left to itself to dry it be- 
 comes shrivelled and has a bad appear- 
 ance. To guard against this the fol- 
 lowing process is adopted : An endless 
 strip of paper is passed by machinery 
 first through a vat of the acid and then 
 through water, ammonia, and water 
 again; next a cloth-covered roller de- 
 prives it of a portion of the water, and 
 anally it is pressed and smoothed out 
 
 by means of polished heated cylinders. 
 When properly manufactured, parch- 
 ment paper has the same color and 
 translucency as animal parchment. As 
 compared with ordinary parchment 
 this paper possesses the advantage that 
 it is very little liable to be attacked by 
 insects. And again, the characters in- 
 scribed on it cannot be effaced without 
 difficulty, and when effaced cannot be 
 replaced by others, a perfect guarantee 
 against all kinds of falsification. By 
 reason of its firmness and durability it 
 is well suited for plans and drawings, 
 especially such as are much exposed to 
 moisture. Further it can be used for 
 covering books ; or books, maps, etc., 
 for use in schools, could be printed on 
 it and would be very durable. In 
 place of animal membrane it is well 
 suited for covering jars of fruit, ex- 
 tracts, etc., as also for connecting the 
 parts of distilling and other apparatus. 
 It furnishes an excellent substitute for 
 animal bladder for the casings of saus- 
 ages. In surgery it is employed instead 
 of linen, oiled cloth, and gutta percha, 
 for dressing wounds. 
 
 Water-proof Paper transparent and 
 impervious to grease is obtained by 
 soaking good paper in an aqueous solu- 
 tion of shel lac and borax. It resembles 
 parchment paper in some respects. If 
 the aqueous solution be colored with 
 aniline colors very handsome paper, of 
 use for artificial flowers, is prepared. 
 
 Peterson's Water-proof Paper. Dis- 
 solve 3 J ounces of tallow soap in water, 
 add sufficient solution of alum that the 
 soap is entirely decomposed, and mix 
 this fluid with a gallon of paper-pulp. 
 The paper is in all other respects pre- 
 pared in the ordinary manner, and need 
 not to be sized. It is especially suitable 
 for cartridge-shells. 
 
 Carbolic Acid Paper is prepared with 
 3 ounces of carbolic acid to the square 
 foot. It is used for disinfecting pur- 
 poses, and also for packing fresh meat. 
 The process of preparing it is as fol- 
 lows : Melt at a moderate heat 5 parts 
 of stearine, 6 of paraffine, and 2 of car- 
 bolic acid. Apply the melted mixture 
 to the paper with a brush. 
 
 A still more effective paper, and which 
 can be used for a great many purposes, is 
 obtained by the use of a smaller quan- 
 tity of nitric acid in place of carbolio 
 
276 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 acid, the rest of the process being the 
 same. 
 
 Two New Varieties of Preserving Pa- 
 per have been recently brought into 
 the market. The one is obtained by 
 immersing soft paper in a bath of sali- 
 cylic acid, and then drying in the air. 
 The bath is prepared by diluting a 
 strong solution of the acid in alcohol 
 with a large volume of water. This 
 paper may then be used for wrapping 
 up apples, etc. 
 
 The other paper used as protection 
 against moths and mildew is best pre- 
 pared from strong manilla paper by 
 immersing it in the following bath: 
 Seventy parts of tar oil, 5 of crude car- 
 bolic acid containing about i phenole, 
 20 of coal-tar at a temperature of 160 
 F., and 5 of refined petroleum. The 
 paper is then squeezed out, and dried 
 by passing it over hot rollers. 
 
 Plastic Pasteboard for Surgical Band - 
 ages is prepared by softening the raw 
 pasteboard by beating, or, if very stiff, 
 lixiviating with alkalies, then drying 
 thoroughly, and saturating with a solu- 
 tion of shellac, rosin, and turpen- 
 tine, or pine rosin, elemi, etc., and, if 
 necessary, coating with gutta-percha or 
 varnish. 
 
 Preparation of Tracing Paper, Trac- 
 ing Linen, and Transparent Packing 
 Paper. The paper is first treated with 
 boiled linseed oil, and the excess of 
 oily particles removed with benzine. 
 The paper is then washed in a chlorine 
 bath. When dry it is again washed 
 with oxygenated water. 
 
 Linen is first provided with a coating 
 of starch and then with an application 
 of linseed oil and benzine. It is finished 
 by being smoothed between polished 
 rollers. 
 
 Photo-lithographic Transfer Paper, 
 and Transfer-color belonging to it. Pa- 
 per is treated with a solution of 100 
 parts of gelatine and 1 of chrome-alum 
 in 2400 of water, and, after drying, with 
 white of egg. It is sensitized in a bath 
 consisting of 1 part of chrome-alum, 14 
 of water, and 4 of alcohol. The ad- 
 dition of the latter prevents the solution 
 of the white of egg. On the places not 
 exposed to the light the white of egg 
 becomes detached, together with the 
 color with which the exposed paper 
 has been coated. The transfer color 
 
 consists of 20 parts of printing ink, 50 
 
 of wax, 40 of tallow, 35 of rosin, 210 of 
 
 oil of turpentine, and 30 of Berlin blue. 
 
 Writing, Copying, and Drawing Pa- 
 
 n which can be washed. The paper 
 lade transparent by immersion in 
 benzine and then, before the benzine 
 volatilizes, plunged into a solution of 
 siccative prepared in the following 
 manner : One pound each of lead shav- 
 ings and oxide of zinc are boiled for 
 8 hours, together with 8| ounces of 
 hardened Venetian turpentine in 2 
 gallons of purified linseed-oil varnish, 
 and then allowed to stand for a few 
 days to cool and settle. The clear layer 
 is then poured off and to this are added 
 5 pounds of white West Indian copal 
 and 8| to 10 ounces of sandarac dis- 
 solved in spirit of wine or ether. This 
 paper can be written or drawn upon 
 with pen and ink or water colors ; or, by 
 using good copying ink, good copies 
 can be taken from it without a press. 
 
 Tracing Paper. By the following 
 very simple process ordinary drawing 
 paper can be rendered transparent, for 
 the purpose of making tracings, and its 
 transparency removed so as to restore 
 its former appearance when the draw- 
 ing is completed. Dissolve any quan- 
 tity of castor oil in one, two, or three vol- 
 umes of absolute alcohol, according to 
 the thickness of the paper, and apply it 
 by means of a sponge. The alcohol 
 evaporates in a few minutes, and the 
 tracing paper is dry and ready for im- 
 mediate use. The drawing or tracing 
 can be made either with lead-pencil or 
 India ink, and the oil removed from 
 the paper by immersing it in absolute 
 alcohol, thus restoring its original 
 opacity. The alcohol employed in re- 
 moving the oil is, of course, preserved 
 for diluting the oil used in preparing 
 the next sheet. 
 
 Transfer Paper. Mix lard to a paste 
 with lampblack, rub this upon the 
 paper, remove the excess with a rag, 
 and dry the paper. A copy of the writ- 
 ing can be transferred on a clean sheet 
 of paper by placing it underneath the 
 prepared paper and writing upon the 
 latter with a lead-pencil or sharp 
 point. 
 
 Tar Paper. Boil 100 pounds of tar 
 for 3 hours, then dissolve in it a quan- 
 tity of a glue prepared from rosin and 
 
PAPER AND PAPER MATERIALS. 
 
 277 
 
 soap, pour 8 gallons of boiling water 
 upon the mixture, stir carefully, and 
 let the mixture boil. Then stir care- 
 fully 100 pounds of potato flour into 60 
 gallons of water in a vat, mix the dis- 
 solved tar with 15 gallons of boiling 
 water, and add this to the potato flour 
 in the vat, stirring constantly. Twenty- 
 four parts of this homogeneous fluid are 
 taken to 20 parts of paper-pulp. From 
 the pulp the tar-paper is manufactured, 
 which can be painted black and var- 
 nished to make it water-proof. The 
 prepared tar-solution may also be used 
 to impregnate wood, sail-cloth, etc. 
 
 To Prepare Leather Waste for use in 
 the Manufacture of Paper. To extract 
 the tannin place the waste for a few 
 hours in a solution of 5 parts of lime, 5 
 of crystallized soda, and 1 of sal-am- 
 moniac in 100 of water ; then wash first 
 with acidulated and next with pure 
 water. The prepared waste is worked 
 into paper in the ordinary manner, 
 either by itself or mixed with rags. 
 
 Iridescent Paper. Boil 4J- ounces 
 of coarsely powdered gall-nuts, 2J 
 ounces of sulphate of iron, $ ounce of 
 sulphate of indigo, and 12 grains of 
 gum-Arabic; strain through a cloth, 
 brush the paper with the liquor, and 
 expose it quickly to ammoniacal va- 
 pors. 
 
 Colored Paper for Tying up Bottles, 
 etc. The dry aniline colors of all 
 shades are used. Dissolve 15 grains of 
 aniline color in 1 ounce of highly recti- 
 fied alcohol, dilute the solution with 
 10 ounces of distilled water, and add 
 23 grains of tannin dissolved in fluid 
 ounce of alcohol. The object of the 
 aiMition of tannin is to fix the color 
 permanently upon the fibres of the 
 paper, as without it the color on drying 
 could be easily rubbed off. Now take 
 thin white writing-paper, spread it 
 upon a marble or copper plate, and 
 apply the fluid by means of a sponge. 
 Hang the paper over cord to dry, and 
 in a few days varnish it with a concen- 
 trated solution of sodium water-glass to 
 100 parts of which have been added 10 
 parts of glycerine. 
 
 Pouget-Maisonneuve's Electro-ch emi- 
 cal Telegraph Paper. Sufficiently 
 sized paper is treated with a solution 
 of 5 parts of ferro-cyanide of potassium 
 and 150 of sal-ammoniac in 100 of 
 
 water. Telegrams transmitted by means 
 of this paper and Morse's apparatus 
 have given very satisfactory results. 
 
 Amianthus Paper consists of 2 parts 
 of paper pulp and 1 of amianthus. It 
 is especially distinguished from ordi- 
 nary paper by its color, having a yellow- 
 ish tint. When burned in a flame it 
 | leaves a white residue, which, when 
 not violently shaken, retains the form 
 of the paper, and upon which the writ- 
 ing, provided ink containing sulphate 
 of iron has been used, can be traced 
 and deciphered with some trouble by 
 the yellow marks left behind. Experi- 
 ments in the manufacture of amianthus 
 paper have been made in America, 
 where large beds of amianthus of fine 
 fibre have been discovered and the 
 price of the material is low. 
 
 To Water-proof Cylinders of Paste- 
 board. The so-called Chinese lacquer 
 is best adapted for this purpose. It 
 consists of a mixture of 4 parts of slaked 
 lime and 3 of fresh blood, to which 
 some alum has been previously added. 
 As soon as the mixture is complete it 
 is applied to the pasteboard with a 
 large soft brush. When the first coat- 
 ing is dry a second is laid on, which 
 suffices to make the pasteboard im- 
 permeable to water. 
 
 To Produce Enamelled Writing Sur- 
 faces on Pasteboard and Paper. A 
 mixture of bleached shellac and borax 
 dissolved in 10 per cent, of water and 
 glue and vine-black rubbed to an im- 
 palpable powder is used for the first 
 coloring material. It is transferred to 
 | the paper to be coated by means of a 
 felt roller, and distributed with a brush. 
 The paper is then dried and rolled up. 
 After this operation a second color con- 
 j sisting of vine-black, pergamentine 
 I (water-glass and glycerine) is used, the 
 I paper receiving three coats of this. It is 
 then cut into suitable sizes, steamed at 
 a temperature of 248 F., and finally 
 smoothed by calendering. For white 
 tablets Kremnitz white is used in place 
 of vine-black ; for colored, ultramarine, 
 etc. 
 
 Imitation of Mother-of- Pearl on Pa- 
 per. Stout paper with a glossy coating 
 is allowed to float upon a solution of 
 I salts of silver, lead, or bismuth. As 
 j soon as the paper lies smooth upon the 
 | surface of the solution it is slowly 
 
278 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 lifted and allowed to dry. The dry 
 paper is then placed in a room impreg- 
 nated with sulphide of hydrogen, and 
 remains here until the surface has as- 
 sumed a metallic lustre. Diluted col- 
 lodion is now poured over the paper 
 thus prepared, or it is drawn through 
 a bath of it, when, after drying, the 
 beautiful iridescent colors will appear 
 upon the paper. The most varying 
 effects can be produced by sprinkling 
 reducing substances or salts upon the 
 surface of the paper before submitting 
 it to the action of the sulphide of hy- 
 drogen. 
 
 This process is not only adapted for 
 paper but can also be employed for 
 finished articles, as boxes, bonbonnieres, 
 eic. 
 
 To Make Paper Transparent. Apply 
 
 The boiler containing the glue is con- 
 structed of copper or iron, and sur- 
 rounded with a steam-jacket. The small 
 rollers k and n act as distributers, both 
 being turned by friction with b. As 
 soon as the paper reaches the even plane 
 from 6 to c the glue upon it is heated 
 by steam emanating from the apparatus 
 rf, and a fine jet of the material, emery, 
 glass, sand, etc., falls from e upon the 
 surface thus heated. The powder pene- 
 trates deeply into the soft, sticky mass, 
 and adheres quickly. The excess falls 
 off by the paper turning over c, and is 
 collected in a box. The powder in e is 
 heated by a steam-pipe. The fan / sets 
 the paper in motion, whereby all the 
 powder not adhering tightly is shaken 
 off. A jet of steam striking the sur- 
 face of the paper through g helps to 
 
 Fig. 39a. 
 
 a thin coating of a solution of Canada 
 balsam in turpentine to the paper, then 
 give it a good coating of much thicker 
 varnish on both sides. Perform the 
 work before a hot fire, to keep the 
 paper warm, and a third or even fourth 
 coating until the paper becomes evenly 
 translucent. Paper prepared in this 
 manner comes nearer to perfection 
 than any other. 
 
 Emery Paper. The accompanying 
 illustration (Fig. 39a) represents Ed- 
 wards' patented apparatus used in the 
 manufacture of emery, sand, glass, and 
 similar papers, a is the beam on 
 which the endless paper is rolled. In 
 unrolling it passes over the brush- 
 roller i, which takes up the glue from 
 the boiler h and applies it to the paper. 
 
 set the powder more securely in the 
 glue. 
 
 Water-proof Emery Paper. The 
 paper is coated on both sides with pul- 
 verized emery which is made to adhere 
 to it by means of a water-proof cement, 
 so that moisture can have no injurious 
 effect upon the paper. This flexible 
 water-proof cement is prepared by melt- 
 ing 2 parts of hard, African copal, pour- 
 ing over this, while yet hot, 3 of boiled 
 linseed oil and adding 1 part of oil-lac- 
 quer, 1 of Venetian turpentine, 1 of 
 Venetian red, of Berlin blue, J of 
 litharge, and 1 of dissolved caoutchouc. 
 Mix these ingredients intimately, and 
 should the compound be too thick 
 dilute with some linseed-oil varnish. 
 Then spread it uniformly upon paper, 
 
PAPER AND PAPER MATERIALS. 
 
 279 
 
 or a suitable cheap fabric, stretched in 
 a frame, and sift finely pulverized 
 emery, or glass, quartz sand, etc., over 
 it; and, when dry, remove the excess 
 of powder. Usually both sides of the 
 paj>er are covered, one side with 
 coarser and the other with finer pow- 
 der. 
 
 Stains Used in Coloring Paper for 
 Artificial Flowers. Sap-colors are 
 only used and principally those con- 
 taining much coloring matter. The 
 following colors are calculated for one 
 ream of paper. 
 
 The gum- Arabic given in the receipt 
 is dissolved in the sap-liquor. 
 
 Crimson. Mix 1 gallon of liquor of 
 Brazil wood compounded with borax, 
 2 ounces of wax-soap, and 8| ounces of 
 gum-Arabic. 
 
 Dark Blue. I. Mix 1 gallon of tinc- 
 ture of Berlin blue and 2 ounces each of 
 wax-soap and gum tragacanth. 
 
 II. Mix | gallons of tincture of 
 Berlin blue with 2 ounces of wax-soap 
 and 4i ounces of gum tragacanth. 
 
 Dark Green. I. Take 4 gallon of 
 liquor of sap-green (boiled down juice 
 of the berries of Rhamus catharticus), 
 4$ ounces of indigo rubbed fine, 1 
 ounce of wax-soap, and 44 ounces of 
 gum-Arabic. 
 
 II. One-half gallon of liquor of sap- 
 green, 4i ounces of distilled verdigris, 
 1 ounce of wax-soap, and 44 ounces of 
 gum-Arabic. 
 
 Dark Red. Compound 1 gallon of 
 liquor of Brazil wood with 2 ounces 
 of wax-soap and 8i ounces of gum- 
 Arabic. 
 
 Golden Yellow. Mix 64 pounds of 
 gamboge with 2 ounces of wax-soap. 
 
 Lemon Color. I. Compound 1 gallon 
 of juice of Persian berries with 2 ounces 
 of wax-soap and 8| ounces of gum- 
 Arabic. 
 
 II. Add to 1 gallon of liquor of quer- 
 citron compounded with solution of 
 tin 2 ounces of wax-soap and 8f ounces 
 of gum-Arabic. 
 
 Pale. Yellow. Mix 1 gallon of liquor 
 of fustic, 2 ounces of wax-soap, and 8| 
 ounces of gum-Arabic. 
 
 Rose Color. Mix 1 gallon of liquor 
 of cochineal with 2 ounces of wax-soap 
 and 8| ounces of gum-Arabic. 
 
 Scarlet. I. Mix 1 gallon of liquor 
 of Brazil wood compounded with alum, 
 
 and a solution of copper with 2 ounces 
 of wax-soap and 8| ounces of gum- 
 Arabic. 
 
 II. Mix 1 gallon of liquor of cochi- 
 neal compounded with citrate of tin 
 with 2 ounces of wax-soap and 3| 
 ounces of gum-Arabic. 
 
 Yellow-green. I. Compound 1 gal- 
 lon of liquor of sap-green with 2 ounces 
 each of distilled verdigris and wax- 
 soap and 8J ounces of gum-Arabic. 
 
 II. Take 1 gallon of liquor of sap- 
 green, 2 ounces each of dissolved indigo 
 and wax -soap, and 8| ounces of gum- 
 Arabic. 
 
 Stain for Glazed Papers. On ac- 
 count of the cheapness of these papers 
 a solution of glue is used as an agglu- 
 tinant. The following proportions are 
 generally used for one ream of paper : 
 One pound of glue and li gallons of 
 water. 
 
 Black. I. Dissolve 1 pound of glue 
 in li gallons of water; triturate with 
 this 1 pound of lampblack previously 
 rubbed up in rye whiskey, 2| pounds 
 of Frankford black, 2 ounces of Paris 
 blue, 1 ounce of wax -soap, and add 1 
 pounds of liquor of logwood. 
 
 II. Take 4 gallon of liquor of log- 
 wood compounded with sulphate of 
 iron, 1 ounce of wax-soap, and 4i ounces 
 of gum-Arabic. 
 
 Blue (Azure}. Dissolve 1 pound of 
 glue in li gallons of water, and com- 
 pound the solution with 14 pounds of 
 Berlin blue, 2| pounds of pulverized 
 chalk, 2i ounces of light mineral blue, 
 and 2 ounces of wax -soap. 
 
 Blue (Dark). I. Dissolve 1 pound 
 of glue in li gallons of water, and mix 
 with it 4i pounds of pulverized chalk, 
 4i ounces of Paris blue, and 2 ounces 
 of wax-soap. 
 
 II. Mix 4 gallon of tincture of Berlin 
 blue and 1 ounce of wax-soap with 2i 
 ounces of dissolved gum tragacanth. 
 
 Blue (Pale). I. Mix 4 gallon of tinct- 
 ure of Berlin blue and 1 ounce of wax- 
 soap with 34 ounces of dissolved gum 
 tragacanth. 
 
 II. Dissolve 1 pound of glue in li 
 gallons of water, and mix with it 4 
 pounds of pulverized chalk and 2 
 ounces each of Parisian blue and wax- 
 soap. 
 
 Brown (Dark). I. Dissolve 1 pound 
 of glue in li gallons of water, and mix 
 
280 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 with it 1 pound of colcothar, a like 
 quantity of English pink, li pounds of 
 pulverized chalk, and 2 ounces of wax- 
 soap. 
 
 II. Dissolve 1 ounce of wax-soap and 
 4i ounces of gum- Arabic in i gallon of 
 good liquor of Brazil wood and a like 
 quantity of tincture of gall-nuts. 
 
 Cherry Red. Dissolve 1 pound of 
 glue in li gallons of water, and mix 
 with it 8i pounds of Turkish minium 
 previously rubbed up with i gallon of 
 liquor of Brazil wood and 2 ounces of 
 wax-soap. 
 
 Green (Copper}. Dissolve 1 pound 
 of glue in li gallons of water, and 
 triturate with it 4 pounds of English 
 green, li pounds of pulverized chalk, 
 and 4 ounces of wax-soap. 
 
 Green (Pale). Dissolve 1 pound of 
 glue in li gallons of water, and mix 
 with it 1 pound of Bremen blue, 8i 
 ounces of whiting, 1 ounce of light 
 chrome-yellow, and 2 ounces of wax- 
 soap. 
 
 Lemon Color. Dissolve 1 pound of 
 glue in li gallons of water, and mix 
 with it 13 ounces of light chrome-yel- 
 low, 2 pounds of pulverized chalk, and 
 2 ounces of wax-soap. 
 
 Orange-yellow. Dissolve 1 pound of 
 glue in li gallons of water, and mix 
 with it 2 pounds of light chrome-yellow, 
 1 pound of Turkish minium, 2 pounds 
 of white lead, and 2 ounces of wax- 
 soap. 
 
 Red (Dark}. Mix J gallons of liquor 
 of Brazil wood with 1 ounce of wax- 
 soap and 4i ounces of gum- Arabic. 
 
 Red (Pale). Dissolve 1 pound of 
 glue in 1J gallons of water, and mix 
 with it 8| pounds of Turkish minium 
 previously rubbed up with 2 ounces of 
 wax-soap. 
 
 Rose Color. Dissolve 1 pound of glue 
 in li gallons of liquor of Brazil wood 
 and mix with it 50 pounds of rose mad- 
 der previously rubbed up with 2 ounces 
 of wax-soap. 
 
 Violet. Mix4i ounces of gum- Arabic 
 and 1 ounce of wax-soap with i gallon 
 of good liquor of logwood. After the 
 gum has dissolved in the liquor com- 
 pound it with some potash. 
 
 Stains for Morocco Papers. Black. 
 Dissolve 8J ounces of good parchment 
 shavings in li gallons of water and stir 
 in 1 pouud of lampblack, 30 pounds of 
 
 Frankfort black, and 1| ounces of fine 
 Paris blue. 
 
 Blue (Dark). Dissolve 8| ounces of 
 good parchment shavings in li gallons 
 of water, and mix with the solution 8i 
 pounds of white lead and 4i ounces of 
 fine Paris blue. 
 
 Blue (Liyht). Dissolve 8| ounces of 
 parchment shavings in li gallons of 
 water, and mix with it 8J pounds of 
 white lead and 2i ounces of fine Paris 
 blue. 
 
 Green (Dark}. Dissolve 13 ounces 
 of parchment shavings in 2i gallons of 
 water, and mix with 10 pounds of 
 Schweinfurth green. 
 
 Green (Pale). Dissolve 13 ounces of 
 parchment shavings in 2i gallons of 
 water, and mix with 8J pounds of 
 Schweinfurth greet) and 1 pound of 
 fine Paris blue. 
 
 Orange-yellow. Dissolve 8| ounces 
 of parchment shavings in li gallons of 
 water, and mix with li pounds of light 
 chrome-yellow, 8| ounces of orange 
 chrome-yellow, and 1 pound of white 
 lead. 
 
 Pale Yellow. Dissolve 8| ounces of 
 parchment shavings in li gallons of 
 water, and mix with 2 pounds of light 
 chrome-yellow and 81 ounces of white 
 lead. 
 
 Red (Dark). Dissolve 8| ounces of 
 parchment shavings in li gallons of 
 water, and compound this with 7} 
 pounds of fine cinnabar and 1 pound 
 of Turkish minium. 
 
 Red (Pale}. Dissolve 8f ounces of 
 parchment shavings in li gallons of 
 water, and mix it with 8i pounds of 
 Turkish minium. 
 
 Violet (Dark). Dissolve 8? ounces 
 of parchment shavings in li gallons of 
 water, and mix with 3J pounds of white 
 lead, 1 pound of pale mineral blue, and 
 8| ounces of scarlet lake. 
 
 Violet (Light). Dissolve 8f ounces 
 of parchment shavings in li gallons of 
 water, and mix with 4i pounds of white 
 lead, 13 ounces of light mineral blue, 
 and 8 ounces of scarlet lake. 
 
 Stains for Satin Papers. Azure 
 Blue. Dissolve 13 ounces of parchment 
 shavings in 2i gallons of water, and 
 mix with 3 pounds of Bremen blue, If 
 pounds of English mineral blue, and 4i 
 ounces of wax-soap. 
 
 Blue (Liyht). Dissolve 8| ounces of 
 
PAPER AND PAPER MATERIALS. 
 
 281 
 
 parchment shavings in li gallons of 
 water, and mix with 1 pound of light 
 mineral blue and 3i ounces of wax- 
 soap. 
 
 Brown (Light). Dissolve 8f ounces 
 of parchment shavings in li gallons of 
 water, and mix with 13 ounces of light 
 chrome-yellow, 6i ounces of colcothar, 
 2 ounces of Frankfort black, 3 pounds 
 of pulverized chalk, and 3i ounces of 
 wax-soap. 
 
 Broion (Reddish). Dissolve 8f 
 ounces of parchment shavings in li 
 gallons of water, and mix with 1 pound 
 of yellow ochre, 4i ounces of light 
 chrome-yellow, 1 pound of white lead, 
 1 ounce of red ochre, and 3i ounces of 
 wax-soap. 
 
 Gray (Light). Dissolve 8J ounces of 
 parchment shavings in li gallons of 
 water, and mix with 4i pounds of pul- 
 verized chalk, 8 ounces of Frankfort 
 black, 1 ounce of Paris blue, and 3k 
 ounces of wax-soap. 
 
 Gray (Bluish). Dissolve 8f ounces 
 of parchment shavings in li gallons of 
 water, and mix with 4J pounds of pul- 
 verized chalk, 1 pound of light mineral 
 blue, 4 ounces of English green, If 
 ounces of Frankfort black, and 3i 
 ounces of wax-soap. 
 
 Green (Light). Dissolve 8| ounces 
 of parchment shavings in li gallons of 
 water, and mix with 2} pounds of Eng- 
 lish green a like quantity of pulver- 
 ized chalk and 3i ounces of wax- 
 
 Green (Brownish). Dissolve 8f ounces 
 of parchment shavings in li gallons of 
 water, and mix with 1 pound of Schwein- 
 furth green, 84 ounces of mineral green, 
 4i ounces each of burnt umber and 
 English pink, 1 pound of whiting, and 
 3i ounces of wax-soap. 
 
 Lemon Color. Dissolve 8| ounces of 
 parchment shavings in li gallons of 
 water, and mix with li pounds of light 
 chrome-yellow, 1 pound of white lead, 
 and 3i ounces of wax-soap. 
 
 Orange-yellow. Dissolve 8| ounces 
 of parchment shavings in li gallons of 
 water, and mix with li pounds of light 
 chrome-yellow, 8| ounces of orange 
 chrome-yellow, 1 pound of white lead, 
 and 3i ounces of wax-soap. 
 
 Pale Yellow. Dissolve 81 ounces of 
 parchment shavings in li gallons of 
 water, and mix with 4i pounds of light 
 
 chrome-yellow, 1 pound of pulverized 
 chalk, and 3i ounces of wax -soap. 
 
 Orange-yellow. Dissolve Sf ounces 
 of parchment shavings in li gallons of 
 water, and mix with 41 pounds of light 
 chrome-yellow, 81 ounces of Turkish 
 minium, 1 pound of white lead, and 3i 
 ounces of wax-soap. 
 
 Rose Color. Dissolve 8| ounces of 
 parchment shavings in li gallons of 
 water, and mix with J gallon of rose 
 color prepared from liquor of Brazil 
 wood and chalk, and 6i pounds of wax- 
 soap. 
 
 Violet (Light). Dissolve 8J ounces 
 of parchment shavings in li gallons of 
 water, and mix with li pounds of light 
 mineral blue, a like quantity of scarlet 
 lake, 1 pound of white lead, and 3i 
 ounces of wax-soap. 
 
 White. Dissolve 8J ounces of parch- 
 ment shavings in li gallons of water, 
 and mix ^ith 8J pounds of fine Krem- 
 nitz white, 4i ounces of fine Bremen 
 blue, and 3i ounces of wax -soap. 
 
 Silver White. Dissolve 8J ounces of 
 parchment shavings in li gallons of 
 water, and mix with 8| pounds of Krem- 
 nitz white, 81 ounces of Frankfort 
 black, and 3i ounces of wax-soap. 
 
 How to Split a Sheet of Paper. To 
 split paper into two or three even parts 
 proceed as follows : Paste a piece of cloth 
 or strong paper to each side of the sheet 
 to be split. When dry quickly pull 
 the two pieces asunder, when one part 
 of the sheet will be found to have ad- 
 hered to one and part to the other. 
 Soften the paste in water, and the 
 pieces can be easily removed from the 
 cloth. The process can be utilized in 
 various ways. If it be desired to paste in 
 a scrap-book a newspaper article printed 
 on both sides of the pa per and we possess 
 only one copy it is very convenient to 
 know how to detach the one side from 
 the other. The paper when split, as 
 may be imagined, is more transparent 
 than before being subjected to the 
 operation, and the printing-ink is some- 
 what duller; otherwise the two pieces 
 present the appearance of the original 
 if again brought together. 
 
 To separate the paper sheet into two 
 films as above described will require 
 some little practice, but with a little 
 patience the experimenter will soon 
 acquire the necessary dexterity. 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 PERFUMERY. AROMATIC VINEGARS, 
 COSMETICS, EXTRACTS, HAIR OILS, 
 POMADES, POWDERS, WASHES, 
 FUMIGATING ARTICLES, ETC. 
 
 Extraction of Perfume from Flowers. 
 Remove the unpleasant odor from 
 methyl chloride by treating it in a 
 gaseous state with sulphuric acid. The 
 apparatus for extracting the flowers 
 consists of a digesting vessel, a holder 
 for the purified methyl chloride, a her- 
 metically closed receiver, and an air- 
 pump. Place the flowers in the digest- 
 ing vessel and submit them for 2 min- 
 utes to the action of the liquid methyl 
 chloride which is then run into the re- 
 ceiver. Repeat this operation fre- 
 quently, each time with fresh methyl 
 chloride. Finally the methyl chloride 
 absorbed by the blossoms in the digest- 
 ing vessel is removed by rarefying the 
 air, and conveyed to the condensing 
 apparatus. The last traces of it may 
 be gained by the introduction of a jet 
 of steam. The methyl chloride col- 
 lected in the receiver, which is placed 
 on a water-bath heated to about 86 F., 
 is volatilized by rarefying the air to i 
 atmosphere, the perfuming substances 
 mixed with fatty and wax-like matters 
 remaining behind. By treating them 
 with cold alcohol the perfume is ob- 
 tained in a perfectly pure state. 
 
 Manufacture of Perfumery. Pure 
 alcohol free from fusel oil and other 
 substances of a disagreeable odor is one 
 of the principal requisites for the manu- 
 facture of good perfumery. It is also 
 of the utmost importance that the 
 ethereal oils used should be perfectly 
 pure and of the best quality. 
 
 Eau des Alpes. Two thousand parts 
 of alcohol, 38 parts each of oil of orange 
 blossoms, cedrat oil, and oil of berga- 
 mot, 15 parts each of oil of lemon and 
 Portugal oil, 8 parts of oil of wormwood, 
 and 4 parts of oil of cloves. 
 
 Eau de Cologne. Six hundred and 
 fifty parts of 96 per cent, alcohol, 50 
 parts each of orange water and rose 
 water, 200 parts of neroli, 400 parts of 
 oil of lavender, 200 parts of oil of berga- 
 mot, 900 parts of " petit-grain " oil, 250 
 parts of oil of rosemary, and 50 parts 
 of myrtle oil. 
 
 Otto's Eau de Cologne. Mix the fol- 
 lowing ingredients with 400 parts of 
 
 alcohol of 86 per cent. Tralles: Four 
 parts of oil of lemon, 3 of oil of berga- 
 mot, | of neroli, i of lavender oil, i of 
 rosemary oil, 1 of spirit of sal-am- 
 moniac. 
 
 Thillaye's Eau de Cologne. Dissolve 
 the following oils in 2000 parts of strong 
 alcohol : 60 part each of bergamot and 
 lemon, 12 parts of cedrat, and 3 parts 
 of rosemary. 
 
 Wagners Eau de Cologne. Place 
 the following ingredients in a glass mat- 
 
 angelica root, 
 coriander seed, and li of bruised cloves. 
 Pour 300 parts of alcohol and 100 of 
 water over them, let the whole digest 
 for 48 hours, and then distil off 300 
 parts. Then pour 100 parts of 40 per 
 cent, alcohol over 2i of neroli, 4 of 
 orange oil, 2 of oil of bergamot, of oil 
 of peppermint, 2 of.tolu balsam, and | 
 of essence of ambergris, and allow the 
 mixture to stand quietly for 24 hours. 
 Then pour the supernatant liquid off, 
 mix it with the first, let the whole stand 
 again for a few hours, filter through 
 animal charcoal, and finally distil it. 
 
 Eau de Lavande Ambra. Four hun- 
 dred parts of alcohol, 100 parts of oil of 
 cloves, 200 parts of oil of bergamot, 600 
 parts of oil of lavender, 100 parts of Port- 
 ugal oil, 300 parts of tincture of violets, 
 25 parts each of tincture of benzoine and 
 tincture of storax, 50 parts of tincture of 
 musk, 25 parts of tincture of ambergris, 
 100 parts of water, and 100 parts of 
 sugar-color. 
 
 Eau de Paris. Eight thousand parts 
 of 85 per cent, alcohol, 62 parts each of 
 oil of lemons, oil ofbergamot, and Portu- 
 gal oil, 15 parts of neroli, and 8 parts of 
 oil of rosemary. 
 
 Empress Eugenie's Nosegay. One 
 part each of extracts of musk, vanilla, 
 tonka beans, and neroli, and 2 parts 
 each of extracts of rose geranium and 
 sandal wood and triple essence of 
 roses. 
 
 Esprit de Patchouli. Mix 1 part of 
 elixir of musk and 1 part of patchouli 
 oil with 300 parts of cologne water, and 
 distil in a steam-bath. 
 
 Esprit de Rose triple. Mix 100 parts 
 of rose oil with 4000 parts of rectified 
 spirit of wine, and distil. 
 
 Esprit de Toilette Frangaise. Dis- 
 
PERFUMERY, POWDERS, ETC. 
 
 283 
 
 solve in a suitable flask li parts each 
 of the following oils : lemon, thyme, 
 lavender, and bergamot, and i part of 
 oil of cinnamon in 500 parts of rectified 
 spirit of wine. 
 
 Ess. Bouquet. Four ounces of extract 
 of musk, 2 ounces of extract of tube- 
 roses, 1 drachm of rose oil, li drachms 
 of oil of bergamot, i drachm of neroli, 
 8 minims of^oil of verbena, 10 minims 
 of oil of allspice, 3 minims of oil of 
 patchouli, 10 minims of oil of lavender, 
 \ drachm of oil of cedar, and 3 to 4 
 pints of alcohol. 
 
 Extrait Violet. 
 
 Extract of cassia 300 parts. 
 
 " rose 200 
 
 " jasmine 50 
 
 " " tuberose 56 
 
 Tincture of iris 100 
 
 " musk 200 
 
 Oil of bergamot 6 
 
 Extract of Iris. Seven pounds of 
 iris root of good quality and ground 
 fine are treated by percolation with 
 pure alcohol until 1 gallon of extract 
 is obtained. 
 
 Jockey Club Extract. 
 
 Extract of jasmine . 
 
 " " violet . 
 " musk 
 
 " " vanilla . 
 Rose oil . . . . 
 Sandal oil .... 
 Orange blossom oil . 
 Benzoic acid . . 
 
 Alcohol 2 to 4 pints. 
 
 Heliotrope Extract. 
 
 Vanilla 1^ drachma. 
 
 Orange blossom oil 10 drops. 
 
 Cherry-laurel oil 5 " 
 
 Musk % grain. 
 
 Benzoine 6 drachms. 
 
 Rectified alcohol 1 pint. 
 
 Millefleur Extract. 
 
 Oil of rose 1 drachm. 
 
 " " cedar 1 ' 
 
 " oranges 1 " 
 
 " allspice 20 minims. 
 
 Extract of iris 6 ounces. 
 
 "jasmine 2 " 
 
 " styrax 1 ounce. 
 
 " tonka 4 ounces. 
 
 Alcohol 2 to 4 pints. 
 
 Moss-Rose Extract. 
 
 Rose oil 2 drachma. 
 
 Ban.luloil 2 
 
 Extract of musk 12 ounces. 
 
 " vanilla 4 " 
 
 " iris 2 " 
 
 " " jasmine 4 " 
 
 Benzoic acid 1 drachm. 
 
 Alcohol 1 to 4 pints. 
 
 Musk Extract. Two drachms of the 
 finest musk in grains are rubbed up 
 with a solution of i ounce of carbonate 
 of potassium in 4 ounces of alcohol, until 
 the musk is thoroughly soaked and lias 
 the consistency of cream. A sufficient 
 quantity of alcohol is added so that 
 the whole will amount to a pint, and 
 this allowed to settle. The liquid is 
 then poured off, and the coarser parti- 
 cles of the settled musk are again 
 rubbed up in the same manner. This 
 
 Erocess is repeated until all the musk 
 i finely divided, when the whole is 
 allowed to stand for 14 days, and 3 
 pints of extract are drawn off. 
 
 New Garden Nosegay. Mix 50 parts 
 of neroli extract, 25 parts each of the 
 extracts of acacia, tuberose, jasmine, 
 and rose geranium with 10 parts each 
 of essence of musk and essence of am- 
 bergris. 
 
 New-mown Hay. 
 
 25 ounces, 
 
 Extract of tonka bean . . 
 
 " " musk .... 
 
 " iris 8 " 
 
 " " vanilla 1 ounce. 
 
 " " styrax 1 
 
 Oil of bergamot 1 " 
 
 Neroli 15 minims. 
 
 Oil of rose 10 " 
 
 " patchouli 10 " 
 
 " cloves 6 " 
 
 " " sandal wood 1 drachm. 
 
 Benzoic acid 1% " 
 
 Alcohol Ito4 pints. 
 
 Styrax Extract. Dissolve 8 drachms 
 of styrax in 1 pint of alcohol. 
 
 Tonka Bean Extract. Convert 1 
 pound of tonka beans into a coarse 
 powder, and pour sufficient alcohol 
 over it to give 1 gallon of extract. 
 
 Vanilla Extract. Rub 4 ounces of 
 finest vanilla beans to a powder to- 
 gether with 4 to 6 ounces of loaf sugar, 
 and extract with alcohol by percolation 
 until 7 gallons of extract have been 
 obtained. 
 
284 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Victoria Extract. 
 
 Oil of rose 2 drachms. 
 
 " " neroli 2 
 
 " " bergamot 4 " 
 
 " " coriander 16 minims. 
 
 " " lavender 16 " 
 
 " " allspice 24 
 
 Extract of jasmine 2 ounces. 
 
 " musk 2 " 
 
 " " iris 16 " 
 
 Benzoic acid 2 " 
 
 Alcohol 1 to 4 pints. 
 
 West End Bouquet. Mix in a glass 
 flask : Fifty parts each of extracts of 
 acacia, violet, and tuberose, 25 parts of 
 extract of jasmine, 150 parts of triple 
 essence of rose, 25 parts of essence of 
 musk, a like quantity of essence of 
 ambergris, and 6 parts of oil of berga- 
 mot. 
 
 White Rose Bouquet. Oil of rose 2 
 drachms, cedar oil 6 minims, patchouli 
 oil 4 minims, orange oil i drachm, 
 extracts of tuberose, iris, jasmine, and 
 musk each 2 ounces, benzoic acid 1 
 drachm, and alcohol 1 to 4 pints diluted 
 with 4 ounces of rose water. 
 
 Ylang Ylang. 
 
 Oil of ylang-ylang 2 drachms. 
 
 " " rose 1 drachm. 
 
 " " neroli % 
 
 Extract of vanilla 2 ounces. 
 
 Tincture of tolu 8 
 
 Alcohol 1 gallon. 
 
 Bose water ........ 1 pint. 
 
 Allow the mixture to stand for sev- 
 eral days, and then filter through car- 
 bonate of magnesium. 
 
 Ambergris Vinegar. White vinegar 
 800 parts, ambergris ^ part, and musk 
 $ part. Rub the ingredients fine in a 
 mortar before adding them to the vine- 
 gar. Then moisten the powder with 
 some of the vinegar, and with the re- 
 mainder rinse out the mortar, put all 
 into a flask, allow it to digest for 5 or 6 
 days, and then draw off 500 parts, or, 
 at the utmost, 600 parts. 
 
 Aromatic Vinegar. Pour 300 parts 
 of vinegar over 6 parts each of chopped- 
 up leaves of rosemary, garden sage, 
 peppermint, bruised cloves, bruised 
 zedoary root, and pulverized angelica 
 root. Macerate for 4 days in a closed 
 vessel, then press and filter. 
 
 Clove Vinegar. Digest in 800 parts of 
 vinegar for 3 days : Eighteen parts of 
 
 bruised cloves, 6 parts each of grated 
 nutmegs and cinnamon, 9 parts of car- 
 nation pink blossoms, 3 parts each of 
 mace, cinnamon blossoms, and orange 
 blossoms ; then press out and filter. 
 
 Jasmine Vinegar. Pour 800 parts 
 of white- wine vinegar over 50 parts of 
 jasmine blossoms, and 9 parts each of 
 borgamot and orange rind cut up. Let 
 the mixture digest for 3 (lays, then draw 
 off and filter the vinegar. 
 
 Lavender Vinegar. Pour 800 parts 
 of white-wine vinegar over 100 parts 
 of lavender blossoms, 9 parts each of 
 chopped leaves of rosemary, gentian, 
 and marjoram, 4 parts of thyme leaves 
 cut up, and 3 parts each of bruised 
 angelica root and violet root. Let the 
 mixture digest for 3 days, draw off the 
 liquid, strain the residue, add the liquid 
 obtained to the first, and filter the 
 whole through blotting paper. 
 
 Musk Vinegar. Digest for 3 days 
 in 800 parts of white-wine vinegar: 
 Twenty parts of blossoms of the yellow, 
 sweet sultan flower, 3 parts of chopped 
 rosemary leaves, and 6 parts eacli of 
 bruised anise seed, bruised caraway 
 seed, chopped angelica root, and 
 bruised cardamons; press out, strain, 
 and add 3 parts of musk. Let the 
 whole stand for 36 hours and filter 
 through blotting paper. The musk 
 remaining upon the filter can be used 
 several times in preparing this vine- 
 gar. 
 
 Orange Blossom Vinegar. Pour 500 
 parts of white-wine vinegar over 16 
 parts of orange blossoms, 6 of jasmine 
 blossoms, 6 of jonquil, 6 of mignonette, 
 3 of heliotrope blossoms, 3 of cassia 
 blossoms, and 2 of ground caliatour- 
 wood. Digest for 3 days, strain and 
 filter. 
 
 Rose Vinegar. Digest in 3 parts of 
 pure white vinegar 1 part of red roses 
 and 1 of white. Let the whole stand 
 for 6 days, then press out, strain and 
 filter. 
 
 Toilette Vinegar. This toilette arti- 
 cle, much in demand in Paris, is com- 
 posed as follows : Three hundred parts 
 of acetic acid of 6, 1000 parts of 80 
 per cent, alcohol, 20 parts each of 
 tincture of tolu and tincture of ben- 
 zoin, 4 parts each of the oils of lemon, 
 bergamot, Portugal and cedar, 2 parts 
 of oil of limes, 1 part of neroli, 5i parts 
 
PERFUMERY, POWDERS, ETC. 
 
 of lavender oil, I part of oil of rose- 
 mary, and T V part of musk. 
 
 To give the preparation an agreeable 
 color add from 1 to 3 parts of tincture 
 of ratauhy. 
 
 Vanilla Vinegar. Digest for 4 days 
 in 500 parts of red Burgundy vinegar : 
 Four parts of grated vanilla beans, 8 
 of pulverized cinnamon, and 2 of pul- 
 verized cloves; then press out, strain 
 and filter. 
 
 Vinaigre de Bectute. Digest in a 
 flask for 3 days in 500 parts of red 
 Burgundy vinegar : Thirty parts of rose 
 leaves, lb r of daffodil blossoms, 8 of jas- 
 mine blossoms, 3 of jonquils, and 2 each 
 of marjoram and common balm leaves 
 cut up ; press out and strain the fluid. 
 
 Vinaigre des Dames. Digest for 3 
 days with frequent shaking: Three 
 hundred parts of red wine vinegar, 50 
 parts of rose leaves, 18 parts each of 
 blossoms of jasmine and carnation 
 pinks, 9 parts each of ground rosewood 
 and sandal wood, and 3 parts each of 
 quassia wood and sassafras wood cut up 
 in pieces; then press out the liquid, 
 strain through a cloth and finally filter 
 through blotting paper. 
 
 Vinaigve Ar^omatique de J. V. Bully. 
 This toilet article is much in demand. 
 It is composed of 30 parts each of oil 
 of bergamot and oil of lemon rind, 12 
 parts of Portugal oil, 25 parts of oil of 
 rosemary, 4 parts each of lavender oil 
 and neroli, 50 parts of spirit of balm, 
 and 1000 parts of alcohol. Let the 
 mixture stand for 24 hours, shaking it 
 frequently, and then add 60 parts each 
 of tinctures of benzoin, tolu, and storax, 
 and 100 parts of spirit of carnation 
 pinks. Shake again, and after 24 hours 
 add 2000 parts of distilled vinegar, and 
 finally after letting it stand for 12 hours 
 compound the mixture with 90 parts of 
 radical vinegar. 
 
 Vinaigre d' Hebe (to Remove Freckles). 
 Six thousand five hundred parts of vine- 
 gar, 1350 of lemons cut up in small 
 pieces, 850 of alcohol of 85 Tralles, 225 
 of oil of lavender, 5 of rose oil, 60 of 
 cedar oil, and 850 of water. Let the 
 mixture stand for 3 days exposed to the 
 Bun, and then filter. 
 
 Apply the fluid to the skin by means 
 of a sponge before retiring at night and 
 
 -, 
 of 
 
 Cucumber Essence is much used in 
 cosmetics intended for beautifying the 
 complexion. To prevent the juice from 
 spoiling or becoming rancid when mixed 
 with fat, mix the fresh juice with an 
 equal volume of 90 per cent, alcohol, 
 and distil off the latter. If not suffi- 
 ciently perfumed add fresh juice and 
 distil. 
 
 Cucumber Milk is prepared by mak- 
 ing an emulsion from 8 parts of sweet 
 almonds, 20 parts of fresh cucumber 
 juice previously boiled, and i of Castile 
 soap dissolved in 6 of cucumber essence, 
 and finally adding & of tincture of 
 benzoin. 
 
 Lily Essence. Mix 250 parts of ex- 
 tract of tuberoses, 33 parts of extract 
 of jasmine, 66 i parts of extract of orange 
 blossoms, 100 parts of vanilla extract, 
 125 parts each of the extracts of acacia 
 and rose, and a trace of ethereal oil of 
 bitter almonds. The mixture must at 
 least stand for 1 month before it is fit 
 for sale. 
 
 Narval Bouquet. Two hundred and 
 fifty parts each of rose essence, extract 
 of sandal wood, patchouli essence, and 
 verbena essence. 
 
 Moss-rose Essence. One thousand 
 parts of alcoholic extract of French 
 rose-pomade, 500 parts of triple spirit 
 of rose, 500 parts of alcoholic extract 
 of orange blossom pomade, 250 parts 
 of extract of ambergris, and 125 parts 
 of extract of musk. 
 
 The extract from pomades is obtained 
 in the following manner : Five hundred 
 parts of pomade are cut up in small 
 pieces and placed in a capacious flask, 
 together with 575 parts of alcohol. The 
 flask is then hermetically closed and 
 placed in a water-bath until the pomade 
 is melted, when it is converted into a 
 fine-grained mass by shaking. The 
 mixture is allowed to stand for a few 
 days, being occasionally shaken, and 
 the supernatant fluid is then drawn off. 
 By repeating this operation 2 or 3 times 
 a weaker extract is obtained suitable 
 for cheap perfumeries. 
 
 Odeur Fin National. Put J grain 
 of musk into a flask, pour 6 fluid ounces 
 of 85 to 90 per cent, alcohol over it, 
 close the flask, shake it several times, 
 and let it stand for 24 hours ; then add 
 
 let it dry. Wash the next morning with j 5 drops of rose oil, 50 grains each of the 
 cold water. ' oils of bergamot and cloves 1 fluid 
 
286 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 drachm of cedar oil, and i fluid drachm 
 of oil of lavender. Shake the mixture 
 thoroughly and let it stand for 3 days, 
 frequently agitating it. Pour off the 
 clear liquid or filter it through unsized 
 paper. 
 
 A few drops of this mixture imparts 
 an agreeab.c- and lasting perfume to a 
 handkerchief. 
 
 Tea-rose Essence. Alcoholic extract 
 of French rose pomade, triple spirit of 
 rose, and extract of rose geranium of 
 each 50 parts, extract of sandal wood 
 25 parts, extract of neroli and extract 
 of orris root of each 12^ parts. 
 
 Violette de Bois. Essence of violets 
 500 parts, essence of acacia, essence of 
 rose pomade, and extract of iris root of 
 each 100 parts, and oil of bitter almonds 
 a trace. 
 
 White Rose Essence. Alcoholic ex- 
 tract of French rose pomade, triple 
 spirit of roses, and spirit of violets of 
 each 100 parts, extract of jasmine 50 
 parts, extract of patchouli 25 parts. 
 
 HAIR OILS. Flower Oil. Sesame 
 oil 400 parts, geranium oil 400 parts, 
 oils of lavender and bergamot of each 
 100 parts, "petit-grain oil" 50 parts, 
 and angelica oil a trace. 
 
 Good and Cheap Hair Oil. By reason 
 of competition in trade the price of hair 
 oil has been so much reduced that in 
 place of good olive oil cheaper oils, as 
 sesame oil, refined cotton-seed oil, etc., 
 belonging to the half-drying oils, are 
 perfumed, colored, and sold as good 
 hair oil. 
 
 Rape-seed oil is a good fat oil and, 
 when freshly pressed and chemically 
 pure, gives a much better and much 
 cheaper oil to the manufacturer than 
 the above oils, and may be still further 
 improved by compounding it with 10 
 per cent, of castor oil. 
 
 Rape-seed oil is refined as follows: 
 Pour 10,000 parts of crude rape-seed oil, 
 freshly pressed, into a capacious flask, 
 and add 4 parts of camphor and 40 parts 
 of oil of cloves previously dissolved in 
 200 parts of strong alcohol. Mix by 
 shaking the flask vigorously, and then 
 add 900 parts of solution of perman- 
 ganate of potassium obtained by dis- 
 solving 50 parts of the permanganate 
 in 1000 of water. The whole is then 
 thoroughly mixed and placed aside for 
 a few days until the brown color of the 
 
 mixture has disappeared. Now add 
 600 parts of diluted hydrochloric acid 
 containing 12.5 per cent, of the acid. 
 The mixture is allowed to stand, being 
 frequently shaken, until the oil floats 
 nearly clear upon the aqueous fluid, 
 when it is poured ofl'and filtered through 
 paper. During all the operation the 
 flask must be kept closed. 
 
 A good hair oil is now prepared as 
 follows : Color 500 parts of refined rape- 
 seed oil red with alkanet, add 50 parts 
 of castor oil, and perfume with 4 parts 
 of oil of bergamot, 2 parts of oil of 
 balm, and 1 part of essence of mirbane 
 (nitro-beuzole). 
 
 II. Mix 90 'parts of fresh olive oil 
 with 3 of sweet-scented oil, and, if de- 
 sired, color red with alkanet. 
 
 Another Receipt. Bruise 250 parts 
 of fresh southernwood (Artemisia abro- 
 tanum), pour 750 parts of olive oil and 
 250 parts of white wine over it, boil the 
 whole, and press out the liquid through 
 a linen cloth. Repeat this 3 times, but 
 every time with fresh southernwood, 
 and add, during the last operation, 60 
 parts of bear's grease. This oil is 
 claimed to be excellent for producing 
 new hair upon bald heads. 
 
 Hamilton's Hair Oil. Pour 500 parts 
 of fine olive oil into a glass, and add 8i 
 parts of alkanet. When the fluid has 
 assumed a fine dark red color, pour off 
 the clear oil or filter through filtering 
 paper, and add any ethereal oil, as the 
 oil of jasmine, cloves, cinnamon, etc. 
 
 Huile antique a la Bergamotte. Mix 
 500 parts of pure oil of almonds or fil- 
 berts with 60 parts of oil of bergamot, 
 and let the mixture digest in the 
 sun for 14 days, and put up in bottles. 
 
 Huile antique ci r Heliotrope. Put 4 
 parts of the finest oil of almonds and 
 a like quantity of heliotrope blossoms 
 into a glass retort, place it in a sand- 
 bath and distil at a moderate heat. 
 Place the distillate in a cool place for 8 
 days, and then bottle the oil. 
 
 Huile a rHeliotrope. The helio- 
 trope blossoms should be picked very 
 carefully and full-blown ones selected. 
 The perfume is extracted by absorption 
 with fat. 
 
 The following may be used as a sub- 
 stitute for the natural oil : Fifteen parts 
 of Peruvian balsam are digested for 14 
 days in 500 parts of good oil, shaking 
 
PERFUMERY, POWDERS, ETC. 
 
 287 
 
 the vessel frequently. When the mixt- 
 ure is clear add 60 parts of jasmine oil 
 and 30 parts each of the oils of roses 
 and bitter almonds. This oil keeps a 
 long time and resembles very much the 
 heliotrope oil in odor. More strength 
 and a more agreeable aroma can be 
 given it by adding GO parts of vanilla 
 oil and 30 parts each of the oils of am- 
 bergris and musk. 
 
 Huile & r Oeillet. Two kinds of pinks 
 are used: the dark red carnation and 
 the red with white stripes. The flowers- 
 are freed from the calyx and placed in 
 quite thick layers upon cotton cloths. 
 After the oil has been pressed out a 
 stronger aroma can be imparted to it by 
 adding to and mixing it with ethereal 
 oil of carnation pinks. 
 
 Should it be impossible to procure 
 fresh flowers the following mixture may 
 be used in place of the oil : Oil free 
 from all odor 24 parts, orange blossom 
 oil and jasmine oil of each 12 parts, and 
 ethereal oil of carnation pinks IK Mix 
 the whole together by shaking, and let 
 the mixture become clear. 
 
 Huile antique a la Vanille. Take 
 pure oil of almonds 50 parts and 1.5 of 
 oil of vanilla and follow the directions 
 given under huile antique & la ber- 
 gamotte. 
 
 Huile de millefleurs et de Pot-pourri. 
 Mix intimately the following oils: Six- 
 teen parts each of jasmine and rose, 8 
 each of orange blossoms and tuberose, 
 6 of cassia, 4 each of hyacinthe, vanilla, 
 and jonquil, and i of carnation pink. 
 When the mixture is clear add 60 parts 
 of flower oil. If a stronger perfume is 
 desired, add 4 parts each of the oils of 
 ambergris and musk. 
 
 Pot-pourri Oil is prepared from the 
 same ingredients with an addition of 4 
 parts of oi 1 of bergamot and a trace of 
 oil of thyme. 
 
 Macassar Oil. Mix fine inodorous 
 oil of sunflower seed 60 parts, liquid 
 goose-grease and horse oil each 4 parts, 
 liquid storax and egg oil each 2, neroli 
 1, thyme-oil 2, Peruvian balsam k, rose 
 oil i, cacao butter 2. Let the mixture 
 stand for a few hours in a moderately 
 warm place, then put in bottles and 
 keep them in a cool place. 
 
 Sweet /Scented Oil. Mix intimately 
 the following oils : Of cinnamon bios- 
 souls i part, carnation pinks i, of berga- 
 
 mot and cedar each 3, and vanilla 
 essence 2. 
 
 Lime Juice and Glycerine is much 
 used in America as a substitute for 
 hair oil. The mixture does not become 
 rancid and, by reason of the citric acid 
 contained in it, exerts a stimulating 
 1 effect upon the roots of the hair. The 
 following mixture gives an excellent 
 preparation : White wax 1 part, oil of 
 sweet almonds 20, lime water 22, 
 glycerine 2, and oil of lemons i. 
 
 POMADES. An addition of soap im- 
 proves pomades. Before perfuming 
 add about 250 parts of soap dissolved in 
 hot water and about If parts of borax 
 to 12,500 parts of pomade stock. This 
 renders the pomade as white as snow, 
 and very emollient, which is very diffi- 
 cult to attain by an addition of stearine. 
 This pomade will bear an admixture 
 of i water. 
 
 Aurora Pomade is prepared from 
 orris root and cacao butter. It is a 
 patented article, and sold at 50 cents 
 per pot containing i ounce. 
 
 Beef-marroic Pomade. Melt together 
 4000 parts of lard and 2000 parts of 
 beef-marrow, strain through fine linen, 
 and then stir with a wooden or 
 porcelain pestle until the pomade is 
 cold. Then work in 60 parts of oil of 
 bergamot and 1 part of rose oil, or any 
 other perfume desired. If the pomade 
 is to be colored yellow, add to the fat, 
 while yet hot, some crude palm oil or 
 saffron ; red is obtained by an addition 
 of a few drops of alkanet. 
 
 Creme Celeste. Melt 2 J parts of white 
 wax, 50 parts each of spermaceti and 
 oil of almonds, and add 33 parts of 
 rose water. 
 
 Creme Cristallisee. Dissolve 1 part 
 of spermaceti in 1 of huile antique de 
 rose, a like quantity of oil of tuberose, 
 ^ of huile antique of orange blossoms, 
 and 2i of oil of almonds. Fill the clear 
 mixture into small glass jars and let it 
 cool slowly. 
 
 Glycerine Balsam. Melt white wax 
 and spermaceti each 33 parts, and add 
 fat oil of almonds 250 parts, glycerine 
 66 parts, and rose oil I part. 
 
 Ice Pomade. Finest olive oil 2000 
 parts, spermaceti 500, oil of bergamot 
 50, neroli 10, oil of carnation pink 30, 
 good olive oil 50. 
 
 Neroli Pomade. Mix i part of rose- 
 
288 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 pomade and a like quantity of jasmine- 
 pomade with 2 part of fat oil of almonds, 
 and 1 of neroli. 
 
 Pomade according to Wagner. Fif- 
 teen parts of salicylic acid, 30 parts of 
 spirit of wine of 91 per cent., and 150 
 parts of lard. 
 
 Pomade according to Winterberg. 
 One hundred and fifty parts of lard, 
 120 parts of beefs marrow, a like quan- 
 tity of white wax, 60 parts of Peruvian 
 balsam, 40 parts of oil of jasmine, and 
 5 parts of salicylic acid. 
 
 Pomade a la Duchessc. One hun- 
 dred and twenty parts of soft lard, 3 
 each of neroli, oil of bergamot, arid oil 
 of lemon, 1 of tincture of ambergris, 
 and TTJ of tincture of musk. 
 
 Pomade an Bouquet. Two hundred 
 parts of soft pomade fat, 5 of "pet.it 
 grain" oil, 1 each of neroli, rose oil, 
 and oil of geranium, each of oil of 
 cinnamon and Peruvian balsam, and ^ 
 of tincture of musk. 
 
 Pomade Divine. Soak 400 parts of 
 crude beefs marrow for 10 days in pure 
 cold water, changing the water twice 
 every day. Then melt the 400 parts of 
 beefs marrow, and while it is yet liquid 
 add 500 parts of rose water ; pour the 
 whole into a jar which contains 16 parts 
 each of flowers of benzoin, storax, and 
 orris root, and 8 parts each of cinnamon, 
 nutmeg, and cloves; cork the jar tightly, 
 and place it on the fire in a vessel filled 
 with cold water. Then heat over a 
 moderate fire until all is melted, pour 
 it out and stir it until it congeals. This 
 pomade, it is claimed, promotes the 
 growth of hair. Rub the scalp with it 
 before retiring. 
 
 Red Pomade. Melt together in a 
 porcelain dish 90 parts of olive oil of 
 the best quality, 30 parts each of white 
 wax and spermaceti, and 3 to 4 parts 
 of alkinet finely pulverized ; then add 
 4 parts of an essential oil and a few of 
 rose oil and pour the mixture into small 
 porcelain jars. 
 
 Rose Pomade. One thousand two hun- 
 dred parts of French fat rose oil, 100 of 
 white wax, 200 of spermaceti, 1 of 
 Turkish rose oil, 2 of geranium oil of 
 best quality, 1 of oil of bergamot, and 
 1 of alkanet. 
 
 Stick* and Beard Pomatum. Brown 
 
 * Barbers' pomatum generally comes in sticka. 
 
 Beard Pomatum. Melt together 750 
 parts of olive oil, 250 parts of lard, and 
 375 parts of wax. Let the mixture 
 stand for some time, then press out the 
 clear fluid, and perfume it with 1\ parts 
 of oil of bergamot, 12 parts of oil of 
 cloves, and 7i parts of Peruvian bal- 
 sam, and color it with brown umber or 
 alkanet which has been mixed with 
 some bone black. 
 
 ffeld's Beard Pomatums. I. Take 
 3i parts each of pulverized Venetian 
 soap and gum-Arabic, 16$ parts each of 
 rose water and white wax, and a few 
 drops of rose oil. Rub the soap and 
 the gum-Arabic together with the rose 
 water, adding the latter all at one time 
 to prevent the formation of lumps. 
 Then melt the wax in a spoon or other 
 suitable vessel, and mix it with the 
 above paste, first heating the rubbing- 
 dish or mortar containing it, so that the 
 wax shall not congeal too rapidly, and 
 a homogeneous, smooth compound is 
 obtained. 
 
 II. Take 16J parts each of finely- 
 pulverized gum-Arabic and Venetian 
 soap, 100 parts of rose water, 33 parts 
 of white wax, and a few drops of rose 
 oil. Proceed as above. Then mix 16-J- 
 parts of good ordinary soap and 5 parts 
 of gum-Arabic, both pulverized, with 
 about 133 parts of water, and put the 
 mixture in a new, glazed earthenware 
 pot. Then add 5 parts of white wax 
 and boil the whole over a moderate 
 coal fire until it has the desired con- 
 sistency. Perfume the compound when 
 cold with any kind of ethereal oil. 
 
 Hungarian Moustache Pomatum. 
 Take 500 parts of lead-pi aster, 6i parts 
 of acacia oil, 3 parts of rose oil, and 1 
 parts each of oils of cloves and bitter 
 almonds. Give the desired shade of 
 color with sienna rubbed up in oil, and 
 then mix the ingredients by first melt- 
 ing the lead-plaster in water. 
 
 Stick Pomades. I. Consists of purified 
 lard and white wax each 500 parts, 
 jasmine pomade and tuberose pomade 
 each 250 parts, and rose oil li parts. 
 
 II. Mix purified lard 500 parts, white 
 wax 250 parts, oil of bergamot 33 parts, 
 and oil of cassia IV parts. The poma- 
 tum is colored black with lampblack, 
 or brown with umber rubbed up in 
 oil. 
 
 HAIR RESTORERS, TONICS, WASHES, 
 
PERFUMERY, POWDERS, ETC. 
 
 289 
 
 ETC. American Shampooing Liquid to 
 Promote the Growth of Hair. Mix : Rum 
 1000 parts, alcohol 120, tincture of 
 cantharides 5, carbonate of ammonium 
 5, and salt of tartar 10. Rub the head 
 thoroughly with the mixture and then 
 wash with cold water. 
 
 Bandolines. I. Mix in a wide-necked 
 flask 30 parts of gum-tragacanth con- 
 verted into a coarse powder with 5UO 
 of rose water; let the mixture stand 
 for 2 or 3 days, shaking it several times 
 every day, and then strain through a 
 linen cloth, using gentle pressure. 
 
 II. Boil 1 tablespoonful of whole flax- 
 seed for 5 minutes in 1 pint of water 
 and strain. 
 
 Bay-rum Hair Tonic. Mix inti- 
 mately 150 parts of tincture of bay 
 leaves, 4 parts of ethereal bay oil, 30 
 parts of bicarbonate of ammonium, 30 
 parts of borax, and 1000 parts of rose 
 water; and filter after the mixture lias 
 been allowed to stand for a short time. 
 
 Buhlingen's Hair Tonic. Tincture 
 of arnica blossoms 10 parts, glycerine 
 5 parts, spirit of wine 10 parts, and 
 water 60 parts. 
 
 Cheap and Efficacious Hair Tonic. 
 Mix : Eau de Cologne 60 parts, tinct- 
 ure of cantharides 8 parts, rosemary 
 oil and lavender oil of each a few 
 drops. 
 
 Cheap Hair Wash. Pulverize 30 
 parts of borax and 15 parts of cam- 
 phor, and dissolve the powder in 1500 
 parts of boiling water. The solution 
 when cold is ready for use. The cam- 
 phor will form small lumps, but this 
 does not destroy the efficacy of the 
 solution, as the water is thoroughly 
 impregnated. This wash, with which 
 the hair should be frequently moistened, 
 not only cleanses and improves it, 
 but strengthens the growth, preserves 
 the color, and prevents premature bald- 
 ness. 
 
 E<iu de Lustre (For Dressing the 
 Hair). I. Dissolve 120 parts of gum- 
 Arabic La 500 ]>arts of tepid water, and 
 add to the solution 4 parts of sandurac. 
 Before the water becomes entirely cold 
 add to it the white of 2 eggs beaten to a 
 froth, and then compound the whole 
 with some rose water. In place of the 
 gum-Arabic 15 parts of pulverized 
 sugar may be used. In using this 
 preparation pour a little of it into a 
 19 
 
 small saucer and apply it to the hair 
 with an old tooth-brush. 
 
 II. Boil 7 parts of isinglass in 500 
 parts of water, add 7 parts of pulver- 
 ized sugar and 250 parts of spirit of 
 wine or rose water, and shake vigor- 
 ously until a homogeneous mixture is 
 formed. 
 
 Glycerine Wash. Dissolve 33 parts 
 of borax in 4000 parts of orange blos- 
 som water, and add 250 parts of glyc- 
 erine. 
 
 Rosemary Hair Wash. Dissolve 33 
 parts of pearlash in 2000 parts of rose- 
 mary water, and add 250 parts of recti- 
 fied spirit of wine. This preparation 
 can be colored brown with kino. 
 
 T I '<ish to Remove Dandruff. Glycerine, 
 chlorate of potassium, borax, and spirit 
 of camphor each 1 part, and water 25 
 parts. Rub the scalp thoroughly with 
 this preparation before retiring, and 
 wash the head with the yelk of egg once 
 or twice a week. 
 
 HAIR DYES. The basis of nearly all 
 hair dyes is either lead or silver, and 
 the constant application of these metals 
 to the skin is dangerous. \Ve here gi ve 
 several such dyes with a silver basis, 
 quite as much for the purpose of in- 
 structing those who would use these 
 preparations of the risk they run as of 
 furnishing formulae for compounding 
 them. To these we have added some 
 which are innoxious, although these 
 latter are not so effective as those pre- 
 pared from silver and lead. Let the use 
 of all hair dyes be practised with the 
 utmost care. 
 
 Brown Hair Dye. Dissolve 33 parts 
 of nitrate of silver in 250 parts of rose 
 water and filter the solution. The mor- 
 dant used with this preparation con- 
 sists of a solution of 33 parts of sulphide 
 of potassium in 250 parts of water. The 
 mordantis first applied and. when dry, 
 the solution of nitrate of silver. 
 
 Eau de Chine pour Noicir les Che- 
 vaux. This hair dye, sold in Paris, is 
 prepared in the following manner : Put 
 8 parts of pure silver in a flask and 
 pour gradually 30 parts of aqua-fortis 
 over it. Place an earthen vessel filled 
 with sand over a moderate fire and put 
 the flask into the sand. As soon as 
 the silver is dissolved add 1 ounce of 
 mercury and 3 fluid ounces of aqua- 
 fortis. When the solution is complete 
 
290 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 add gradually i pint of distilled water, 
 then take the retort from the sand and 
 let it stand in a moderately warm place 
 until the liquid is clear, and then fill it 
 in bottles which must be well closed. 
 
 Eau Lojeune is a hair-dye manu- 
 factured by M. Lajeune, perfumer in 
 Paris. An elegant box contains 3 
 bottles of fluids and 2small hairbrushes. 
 Bottle No. 1 contains a clear fluid con- 
 sisting of 25 grains of pyrogallic acid, 
 4| grains of alkanet, 6 fluid drachms 
 of spirit of wine, and 1 fluid ounce of 
 water. Bottle No. 2 contains a thick- 
 ish, brown, opaque fluid, composed of 
 4 ounce of nitrate of silver, 1 fluid 
 drachm of spirit of sal-ammoniac, f 
 fluid drachm of gum- Arabic, and 7 fluid 
 drachms of distilled water. Bottle No. 
 3, labelled "Fixateur," contains a fluid 
 consisting of 7f grains of sodium sul- 
 phide and 2 fluid drachms of water. 
 
 Hager's Innoxious Hair Dye as a 
 Substitute for Lead Preparations. 
 Place 10 parts of basic nitrate of bis- 
 muth and 150 parts of glycerine in a 
 glass matrass, heat it gently and add 
 caustic potash lye until by shaking, 
 gentle heating, and digesting on a water- 
 bath a solution as clear as water is 
 obtained. Then add citric acid dis- 
 solved in an equal quantity of water 
 until the alkaline reaction only slightly 
 prevails. Then add sufficient orange 
 blossom water until the whole amounts 
 to 300 parts. The fluid may now be 
 compounded with some aniline color. 
 This preparation gives good results, 
 but its effect is somewhat slow. 
 
 Innoxious Hair Dye. Prepare a 
 pomade of 5 parts of lard and 2 of white 
 wax by melting these two ingredients 
 together, and mixing with them 2 parts 
 of bone-black. The dye is not a very 
 durable one, but it is entirely harmless, 
 and if carefully applied does not rub 
 off as easily as might be supposed. 
 
 Turkish Hair Dye. Pulverized gall- 
 nuts are rubbed to a paste with suffi- 
 cient fat oil, and the paste is then roasted 
 in an iron vessel until no more oily 
 vapors escape. The residue is rubbed 
 to a paste with water and, while yet 
 moist, mixed as intimately as possible 
 with sufficient metallic powder, consist- 
 ing of the finest iron and copper dust, 
 so as to retain the consistency of an 
 ointment, and perfumed with powdered 
 
 ambergris. The preparation must be 
 kept in a moist place, as thereby only it 
 acquires the property of dyeing the 
 hair black. One application is suffi- 
 cient to impart a beautiful black to the 
 hair, which it retains for a long time, 
 leaving it soft and glossy. 
 
 Depilatory Compounds. Triturate in 
 a saucer 20 parts of quicklime, 1 of 
 pure potash, and 1 of potassium sul- 
 phide, and stir the whole into a paste 
 with warm water. Soak the hair in 
 warm water of 128 F. for 10 minutes, 
 and apply the above paste while yet 
 warm. The effect is instantaneous; 
 but the skin should be washed with vin- 
 egar to remedy any injurious effect the 
 preparation may have on it. 
 
 Sulphhydrate of Sodium is recom- 
 mended by R. Bottger as a very effec- 
 tive and inodorous agent destructive 
 of hair. It is readily obtained by rub- 
 bing together intimately 1 part by 
 weight of crystallized sulphhydrate of 
 sodium with 3 parts by weight of fine 
 purified chalk to a fine powder. By 
 moistening this mixture, which keeps 
 for an unlimited time in well-closed 
 glass vessels without suffering decom- 
 position, with a few drops of water to 
 a thick paste, and placing it in a layer 
 of the thickness of a knife blade upon 
 a hide covered with hair, it will be 
 seen that the thickest hair is changed 
 within a few minutes into a soft mass 
 easily removed from the skin with 
 water. Great care should be used in 
 applying it to the human body. 
 
 COSMETIC AND MEDICATED WA- 
 TERS. " Anhalt" Water. Pulverize 
 i ounce each of galanga and rosemary 
 blossoms, the same quantity each of 
 fennel seed, bay leaves, and frankin- 
 cense, and the same each of cloves, 
 cubebs, nutmegs, cinnamon, and mastic. 
 Place the powders in glass flasks, pour 
 i pint of Venetian turpentine and 1 
 gallon of rectified spirit of wine over 
 them, and let the whole digest for 6 
 days; then add 1 pint of water and 
 distil over gallon of "Anhalt" 
 water. It is used for strengthening 
 weak and lame limbs. 
 
 Barege Waters. I. Napoleon's Bath. 
 
 Boil 1| grains each of alum, chalk, and 
 
 hard soap, 3| grains of salt, 20 grains 
 
 of carbonate of sodium,and 15 grains 
 
 i of potassium sulphide in 1 quarts of 
 
PERFUMERY, POWDERS, ETC. 
 
 291 
 
 water until gas commences to be de- 1 cochineal. Pulverize the roots, place 
 veloped. and then add sufficient water i all the ingredients in a glass matrass, 
 for the whole to make 1 gallon of fluid, pour the alcohol and rose water over 
 
 This water is used as a bath for erup- them, and let them digest for 8 days ; 
 tions of the skin. then strain and filter. 
 
 II. Dissolve 2 ounces each of sulph- Eau des Princesses. Mix together 
 hydrate of sodium, carbonate of sodium, tincture of benzoin 4 parts, carbonate 
 and common salt in a little water, and j of potassium 1, spirit of camphor 1, 
 
 then add the quantity of water required 
 for a bath. 
 
 "Bretfeld" Water is used for wash- 
 ing the skin and sprinkling clothing. 
 It is prepared by mixing 2 fluid 
 drachms each of neroli, oil of bergamot, 
 and oil of lemon, 1 fluid drachm each 
 of the oils of lavender and rosemary, 
 30 grains of mace, 4 grains of musk, 
 and 7| grains of ambergris with some 
 spirit of wine, allowing the mixture 
 to stand for 1 month, frequently shak- 
 ing it, and finally pouring off the clear 
 liquid. 
 
 Cascarilla Water. Distil 1 pound 
 of cascarilla bark with sufficient water 
 to produce 10 pounds of liquid. 
 
 Creole Water. Pour 1 pint of French 
 brandy of 36 over 4i ounces of orris 
 root cut up in small pieces. Let the 
 whole stand, with frequent stirring, 
 for 14 days, and then filter. Add to 
 the filtrate i fluid ounce of oil of 
 orange blossoms, i fluid ounce of oil of 
 geranium, and 1 quart of French 
 brandy. Distil the mixture and add 
 simple cumarin essence to the distillate. 
 
 Eau Athenienne. Hoffmann's life 
 balsam, eau de Cologne, essence of 
 orris root, each 200 parts, essence of 
 musk and essence of ambergris each 1, 
 and glycerine 150. 
 
 Eau de V Imperatrice. Dissolve 15 
 drops each of cedar oil and oil of ber- 
 gamot in 1 fluid ounce of rectified spirit 
 of wine, add J ounce of hydrochlorate 
 of ammonia, 1 ounce of basic carbonate 
 of potassium, and 13 fluid ounces of 
 eau de Cologne. Mix the whole with 
 i pint of orange blossom water and 
 distil over 1 quart of liquid. 
 
 Eau des Odalisques. Take 1 gallon 
 of alcohol of 32, 1 quart of rose water, 
 4 ounces of cream of tartar, U ounces 
 of storax, f 'drachm each of bartram 
 root, cypress root, galanga, angelica 
 root, essence of mint, and dill seed, 
 ounce each of liquid Peruvian balsam 
 
 tincture of musk i, eau de Cologne 
 260, and water 60. The preparation, 
 after having stood for 4 weeks, is ready 
 for use. 
 
 English Honey Water. Pour 48 
 parts of rectified spirit over 3 parts of 
 rentifalious rose leaves cut up, i of 
 orange blossoms, and a few rinds of 
 lemons cut up. Then pound fine in a 
 mortar ii 5 part of ambergris, ib part 
 of musk, with an addition of a little 
 sugar. To this mixture add ^r part of 
 pulverized cloves, i part of coriander 
 seed pulverized, and i part of vanilla 
 bean cut up in small pieces. After 
 adding these to the ambergris and the 
 musk the whole is pounded again, and 
 li parts of fine honey are at the same 
 time incorporated with them by rub- 
 bing. The whole is then mixed with 
 the spirit of wine, the mortar and pes- 
 tle washed off with 6 parts of good rose 
 water, and this added to the rest. The 
 mixture is digested for 3 days, and 
 then distilled in the water-bath. 
 
 Florida Water. This cosmetic, much 
 in demand in America, is prepared ac- 
 cording to the following receipts : I. 
 Oil of bergamot 4 ounces, oil of lemon 
 6 ounces, oil of lavender 1 ounce, oil of 
 cloves 6 drachms, alcohol 3 gallons, 
 water 6 pints. The oils are first dis- 
 solved in the alcohol and the solution 
 allowed to stand for some time, and 
 finally the water is added, and the 
 whole filtered. 
 
 II. Oil of bergamot 8 ounces, neroli 
 4 ounces, oil of lavender 3 ounces, oil 
 of cloves 1^ ounces, oil of cinnamon J 
 ounce, tincture of iris i pint, tincture 
 of Peruvian balsam i pint, alcohol 4 
 gallons, water 6 pints. It is prepared 
 in the same manner as No. I. 
 
 Held's Cosmetic Washes. I. Dis^ 
 solve 15 grains of Venetian borax in \ 
 fluid ounce each of rose water sind 
 orange blossom water. This preparation 
 is used to remove pimples and other 
 
 and dry Peruvian balsam, J drachm j purities of the skin. Moisten the places 
 of the finest cinnamon, and 30 grains of I 4 or 5 times daily. 
 
292 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 II. Mix 7 fluid ounces of orange blos- 
 som water, 3i fluid ounces of eau de 
 Cologne, and i fluid ounce of tincture 
 of benzoine. Pour 1 or 2 spoonfuls of 
 it upon a moist sponge or flannel cloth 
 and wash the skin with it. 
 
 Kummerfeldt Water. Rub together 
 in a porcelain mortar ounce of flowers 
 of sulphur, 1 fluid ounce of spirit of cam- 
 phor, and If fluid ounces of spirit of lav- 
 ender, and add If fluid ounces of glycer- 
 ine. Pour the mixture into a glass flask 
 and mix it with 2i fluid ounces of eau de 
 Cologne and 1 quart of distilled water. 
 Shake the liquid thoroughly before 
 using it. 
 
 COSMETIC POWDERS, ROUGES, ETC. 
 Bran of Almonds. Convert 3 parts 
 of sweet almonds pealed into an emul- 
 sion with 4^ parts of water, press out 
 thoroughly, and dry the residue. When 
 entirely dry rub it to a fine powder, and 
 mix it with f part of pulverized orris 
 root. 
 
 Cosmetic Wash Powder. Mix 400 
 parts of pulverized Castile soap, 33 of 
 dry carbonate of sodium, 133 of orris root, 
 200 of bran of almonds, 3 of oil ot ber- 
 gamot, 1 of oil of lemon, and of oil of 
 cloves. A small quantity of this pow- 
 der added to water gives to it a lather 
 of an agreeable odor which cleanses 
 and softens the skin. 
 
 Flour of Almonds. Mix 500 parts 
 of crushed almonds, a like quantity of 
 wheat flour, 125 of pulverized orris 
 root, 16.5 of oil of limes, and 1 of oil of 
 bitter almonds. 
 
 Ifeld's Washing Powder for the 
 Hands. Mix intimately fine wheat 
 flour 500 parts, ordinary pulverized 
 soap 125, finely pulverized orris root 33, 
 oil of bergamot 2, and keep this mixt- 
 ure in a well-closed jar. 
 
 In using it take 1 or 2 spoonfuls of 
 the powder, mix it to a thin paste with 
 water, and rub the hands with this for 
 some time, then wash them in clean 
 water and dry them thoroughly. 
 
 Oriental Rouge. Stir finely pulver- 
 ized orris root into water and strain it 
 several times through fine linen. The 
 powder remaining in the linen is dried 
 and preserved in a glass jar. In using 
 the powder apply a little of it to the 
 part to be rouged and rub it in with 
 the hand for a few minutes. The skin 
 viM become red during the process 
 
 accompanied with a burning sensation, 
 but this ceases in a short time. The 
 color lasts for several days. 
 
 Paris Powder for Beautifying the 
 Complexion. Steep a quantity of rice 
 in pure clean water. Change the water 
 every day for 14 days until the rice is 
 so soft that it can be easily crushed. 
 Then pour off all the water and stir the 
 rice into a white, milky fluid. Strain 
 this through a hair sieve or a coarse 
 cloth, let the fluid settle and dry the 
 fine flour gained in this manner, and 
 finally mix it with some pulverized 
 soda. 
 
 Rouge. Sixteen grains of carmine 
 and 1 drachm of carbonate of mag- 
 nesium. 
 
 Vinaigre Rouge. Digest for 14 days 
 3 drachms of cochineal, a like quantity 
 of carmine lake, 6 fluid drachms of 
 alcohol, and 1 pint of vinegar perfumed 
 by oil of lavender. 
 
 White or Pearl Powder. One ounce 
 of oxide of zinc, 8J ounces of rice flour 
 or starch, and 3 drops of rose oil. 
 
 Augustin's Cosmetic Wash. Mix 9 
 fluid ounces of rose water, J ounce of 
 salt of tartar, and i fluid ounce of tinct- 
 ure of benzoin. The mixture is used 
 as a hair wash. 
 
 Copland's Aqua Cosmetica. Mix 3i 
 fluid ounces of emulsion of bitter al- 
 monds, | pint each of rose water and 
 orange flower water, 1 drachm of borax, 
 and 2 fluid drachms of tincture of ben- 
 zoine. The preparation is used as a 
 wash for the skin. 
 
 Flacon Generateur Universel des 
 Cheveux de Madame S. A. Allen con- 
 sists of precipitate of sulphur 1.69 per 
 cent., pulverized cinnamon 0.20 per 
 cent., glycerine 32 per cent., acetate of 
 lead crystallized 2.65 per cent., water 
 63.46 per cent, perfumed with nitro- 
 benzol. The acetate of lead and sul- 
 phur are first rubbed together, the pow- 
 dered cinnamon is then added, and 
 finally the glycerine and water, and 
 the whole filtered through gauze. 
 
 FUMIGATING ARTICLES. Black 
 Fumigating Paslils. Two and three- 
 quarter pounds of willow charcoal finely 
 pulverized, 3 ounces of pulverized 
 benzoin, If ounces each of powdered 
 storax and liquid storax, i ounce each 
 of pulverized cloves, cinnamon, and 
 Peruvian balsam, 1J grains of musk, 1 
 
PERFUMERY, POWDERS, ETC. 
 
 293 
 
 fluid drachm of oil of lemon, i fluid I of wine, 16.5 parts of benzoic acid, 1 .5 
 drachm each of oil of bergumot and oil j parts each of oils of thyme and cumin, 
 of cloves are mixed with sufficient and 66.5 parts of oil of bergarnot. 
 
 starch paste to form a half-dry, plastic 
 mass, which is shaped into little cones 
 and dried. 
 
 Fumigation with Chlorine. Mix 125 
 parts of sulphuric acid in a flask with 
 37.") parts of water. Then mix 166.5 
 parts of dry common salt with 66.5 
 parts of pyrolusite finely pulverized. 
 Bring this mixture into the dilute sul- 
 phuric acid, and place the open bottle 
 in the room to be fumigated. 
 
 Fumigating Essence. Alcohol 600 
 parts, benzoin 125 parts, infusion of 
 
 Imperial Fumigating Powder. Five 
 hundred parts of orris root coarsely pow- 
 dered, 250 parts of rose wood, a like 
 quantity of cascarilla bark, 66.5 parts of 
 cassia, 750 parts of blue cornflowers, 1500 
 parts of rose leaves, 2000 parts of lv. ven- 
 der flowers, 12 parts of oil of thyme, 90 
 parts each of oils of bergamotand lemon, 
 60 parts of oil of lavender, and 5 parts 
 of liquid storax. 
 
 Indian or Yellow Fumigating Past Us. 
 Fivehundred parts of pulverized sanders 
 wood, 750 parts of benzoin, 125 parts 
 
 and 
 
 storax 400 parts, tolu balsam 100 parts, j of tolu balsam, 5 parts each of oil of 
 Peruvian balsam 4 parts, acetic acid 2 sandal wood, cinnamon, and cloves, 
 parts, oils of bergamot, lavender, and 
 cloves each 5 parts, and infusion of nut- 
 megs 3 parts. 
 
 Fumigating Pastils. The solution 
 of gnm-tragacanth used as an aggluti- 
 nant is prepared by pouring 60 parts 
 of warm water over 10 of gum-traga- 
 canth, letting it stand for a few days, 
 and then pressing or squeezing through 
 a coarse cloth. The pulverized char- 
 coal used in preparing the pastils must 
 be thoroughly calcined and contain no 
 ill-smelling constituents. 
 
 I. Convert the following ingredients 
 into a fine powder : Charcoal 60 parts, 
 benzoin 2, storax 2, frankincense and 
 mastic each 4, auime resin 1. Mix the 
 powders intimately with the charcoal 
 
 and then stir them into a paste with 
 the necessary quantity of solution of 
 gum-tragacanth. 
 
 II. Pulverize and mix: Charcoal 2, 
 cascarilla bark and sandarae each 4, 
 anime resin and liquid storax each 1, 
 cinnamon and cloves each 2, musk and 
 ambergris each 2s part, with sufficient 
 solution of gura-tragacanth, and form 
 the paste into cones. 
 
 III. Very cheap fumigating pastils 
 are obtained by pulverizing and mix- 
 ing : Charcoal 6 parts, frankincense , 
 juniper wood i, and liquid storax 4. 
 The mixture is formed into a paste with 
 starch paste and cones made of this. 
 
 Fumigating Spirit. I. Mix 500 parts 
 of eau de Cologne, 66V parts of tincture 
 of benzoin, 334 parts of tincture of 
 vanilla, and f part each of oils of 
 thyme, mint, and nutmeg. 
 
 II. Mix 500 parts of rectified spirit 
 
 cinnamon, 
 
 5 parts of nitrate of potassium. 
 The ingredients are converted with 
 solution of gum-tragacanth into a paste, 
 which is formed into cones. 
 
 Medicated Fumigating Pastils. Iodine 
 Pastils. Iodine 77 parts, pulverized 
 althea 600, saltpetre 525. Rub the 
 iodine to a fine powder with alcohol, 
 add the althea and saltpetre, and make 
 the compound with water into paste 
 from which conical pastils are formed, 
 each containing about 4 grains of 
 iodine. Sulphur pastils are made in 
 the same manner. 
 
 Stramonium Pastils. Pulverized 
 stramonium leaves and saltpetre each 
 600 parts, and pulverized althea 750. 
 The same proportions are used for 
 digitalis and belladonna pastils. 
 
 Tar Pastils. Tar 450 parts, salt- 
 petre and pulverized althea each 525 
 parts. The powder is mixed and formed 
 into paste without the use of water. 
 
 Opium Pastils. Pulverized althea 
 and saltpetre each 600 parts, pulverized 
 opium 39. Mix the powders into a 
 paste with water and form into pastils. 
 
 Oriental Fumigating Balsam. Cloves, 
 cascarilla bark, amomum seeds, olib- 
 anum each i ounce, orris root, benzoin, 
 and cinnamon each 2i ounces, nutmeg 
 and Peruvian balsam each 1 ounce, 
 musk, oils of bergamot and lavender 
 each 12 grains, oils of fennel and rose- 
 mary each 10 drops, oil of orange 
 flowers 20 drops, and 1 pint of rectified 
 spirit of wine free from fusel oil and of 
 30 Beaume. Powder and mix the in- 
 gredients, let them digest for 8 days in 
 a warm place, shaking the vessel sev- 
 
294 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 eral times each day. Then separate 
 the fluid from the sediment, pour i pint 
 of spirit of wine upon the latter, let it 
 
 rin stand for a few days, then pour 
 the clear fluid and add it to the 
 first. Comminute the solid residue and 
 place it in a glass, weigh and pour the 
 fluid into the glass and let it stand in 
 the sun, or in winter near a warm 
 stove, shaking it frequently. Filter 
 the resulting product immediately after 
 it has been drawn off. 
 
 Paris Pastils. Mix 125 parts each 
 of benzoin and cascarilla bark, 41.5 
 parts of myrrh, 750 parts of wood char- 
 coal, 25 parts each of oils of nutmeg 
 and cloves, and 66.5 parts of saltpetre, 
 and the necesvsary quantity of solution 
 of gum-tragacanth. 
 
 Perfumed Pastils. Mix 500 parts of 
 wood charcoal powder, 375 parts of 
 benzoin, 125 parts each of tolu balsam, 
 vanilla beans, and cloves, 3 parts each 
 of oil of sandal wood and neroli, 50 
 parts of saltpetre, and the necessary 
 quantity of solution of gum-tragacanth. 
 
 White Fumigating Pastils. Pulver- 
 ized lime wood 8 parts, benzoin and 
 mastic each 1, and white Peruvian 
 balsam i. Mix with as much solution 
 of gum-tragacanth as required. 
 
 PHARMACEUTICAL PREPARATIONS. 
 
 Artificial Carlsbad Water. Take 6 
 grains of calcium chloride, 1 drop of 
 tincture of sesqui-chloride of iron, li 
 drachms of sodium sulphate, 1 drachm 
 of sodium carbonate, 7i grains of sodium 
 chloride, and 1 pint of water charged 
 with carbonic acid. 
 
 Artificial Koumiss. Mix 100 parts 
 of condensed milk with 1000 of water ; 
 add 1 part of lactic acid, i of citric acid, 
 and 15 of best Jamaica rum. Saturate 
 the mixture with carbonic acid, fill it 
 in bottles, and let them stand first for a 
 few days in a moderately warm room 
 and then keep them in the cellar. 
 
 Balm of Gilead. Forty parts of com- 
 pound tincture of cardamons and 10 
 parts of tincture of cantharides. 
 
 Balsam of Horehound for Colds and 
 Asthma. Make an infusion of equal 
 quantities of licorice root and horehound 
 leaves, 1J pints of hot water, and add 
 i ounce each of laudanum, camphor, 
 
 flowers of benzoine, squills, and anise- 
 seed oil, and 1 pounds of honey. 
 
 Bitter Elixir. Chop up: Zedoary 
 root 1^ drachms, rhubarb root J ounce, 
 gentian root i ounce, oriental saffron 
 30 grains, Barbadoes aloes 1 ounce, 
 myrrh i ounce, larch-agaric 1 drachms, 
 and common valerian i ounce. Place 
 the ingredients in a suitable glass flask 
 and pour 3 pints of spirit of wine over 
 them. Let them digest for 8 days in a 
 moderate heat, then strain through a 
 cloth and filter. This elixir can be 
 highly recommended. 
 
 Aland's Female Pills. Sulphate of 
 iron 10 parts, salt of tartar, powdered 
 licorice, and gum-tragacanth of each 20 
 parts. Make into pills with extract of 
 gentian. 
 
 Blistering Ointment, a cure for 
 spavin, old swellings of the hough, 
 bony excrescences, etc., in horses, con- 
 sists of li drachms of pulverized can- 
 tharides, 40 grains of euphorbium, f 
 ounce of elemi salve, 20 drops each of 
 oils of juniper, rosemary, and turpen- 
 tine. 
 
 Blume's Remedy for Spavin, etc., con- 
 sists of arsenic 12 percent., bromide of 
 potassium 10 per cent., opium 5 per 
 cent., animal charcoal 1 per cent., bay- 
 oil 20 per cent., and cantharides salve 
 53 per cent. 
 
 Camphor Ice. Melt together 4 parts 
 of spermaceti and 30 parts of oil of 
 almonds and add 4 parts of pulverized 
 camphor. 
 
 Cheltenham Salts. Take 30 parts of 
 Glauber's salt, 24 parts each or Epsom 
 salt and common salt, and i part of sul- 
 phate of iron. Dry each powder sepa- 
 rately, and then mix them. A solution 
 of this mixture gives a good artificial 
 Cheltenham water. It is a tonic and 
 mild purgative. 
 
 Cod-liver Oil and Iodide of Iron. 
 Dissolve by frequent stirring or shak- 
 ing for a few days 1.25 parts of iodine 
 in 98.5 of cod-liver oil. The oil is then 
 poured in a vessel hermetically closed, 
 and shaken with 2.5 parts of pulverized 
 iron for about 4 hours until it has as- 
 sumed a purple-violet color, and a test 
 with solution of iodide of potash and 
 starch shows no more free iodine. 
 The preparation, after having stood Tor 
 24 hours, is allowed to settle and filled 
 in well-closed bottles of yellow glass 
 
PHARMACEUTICAL PREPARATIONS. 
 
 295 
 
 large enough to hold the doses required 
 for 5 days, since the air exerts no per- 
 ceptible influence upon it in this time. 
 The preparation has a purple-violet 
 color, a specific gravity of 0.937 to 0.940 
 at 60 F., and should contain 1.23 per 
 cent, of iodine and 0.27 per cent, of 
 iron. 
 
 Compound Storax Pills, for allaying 
 pain in cases of chronic cough, consist 
 of prepared storax 6 parts, pulverized 
 opium and saffron each 2 parts. Make 
 into pills of 4} grains. Dose : 1 to 2 
 pills. 
 
 Dolorifuqc Elixir Anti-Odontal- 
 gique. This cure for toothache is com- 
 posed of a mixture of 2 parts of acetic 
 ether and 1 part each of chloroform and 
 creosote. 
 
 Edinburgh Stomachic Elixir. Chop 
 up and pound 66 parts of gentian root, 
 33 parts of orange rind freed from the 
 white skin, 5 parts of white cinnamon, 
 and 2 parts of cochineal. Place the 
 ingredients in a suitable glass flask, 
 pour 1250 parts of rectified spirit of 
 wine over them, let them digest for 4 
 days, then strain the liquid through a 
 cloth and filter. 
 
 Glycerine Collodion is prepared by 
 dissolving 2 parts of glycerine in 100 
 of collodion. 
 
 English Peppermint Lozenges. To 
 give to peppermint lozenges the pecu- 
 liar sharp and agreeably pungent taste 
 of the .English product the following 
 receipt may be highly recommended : 
 Dissolve 14 parts of white gelatine in 150 
 of water and intimately mix with it 
 4000 parts of pulverized loaf sugar, 300 
 of starch, 1 of pulverized ginger, and 
 20 of the oil of peppermint, into a 
 paste dry enough not to stick to the 
 board upon which it is worked. Form 
 into 30 grain lozenges. They are as 
 white as chalk, and require no sprink- 
 ling with flour. 
 
 Erasing Powder. Mix thoroughly : 
 Equal parts of alum, amber, sulphur, 
 and saltpetre, and keep the mixture in 
 a well-closed jar. By sprinkling some 
 of the powder upon an ink-stain or re- 
 cently written characters, and rubbing 
 with a white linen rag, the stain or 
 characters will at once disappear from 
 the paper. 
 
 If off' s Malt Beer. To the beer 
 brewed to the consistency of thin syrup 
 
 add the following ingredients : Com- 
 minute and boil in 3 gallons of water 
 1 pound althea root, i pound coriander 
 seed, i badiane seed, and i pound 
 grains of paradise ; cool, press out and 
 filter the liquor. Of this 1 quart is 
 added to every 7i gallons of beer, 
 besides the necessary quantity of sugar 
 syrup, or 1 quart of glycerine, a few 
 drops of oil of lemon, 1 drop of orange 
 oil, and 1 pint of beer color. 
 
 Improved Collodion Styptic. Collo- 
 dion 100 parts, carbolic acid 10, tannin 
 5, and benzoic acid 5. This prepara- 
 tion has a dark-brown color, leaves, 
 after evaporation, a tightly adhering 
 film, coagulates the blood instantane- 
 ously to a crusty mass, and the wound 
 under this covering heals in a very 
 short time. 
 
 lodoform. According to Vulpius, 
 
 Oil of 
 
 Turpentine dissolves 4 per cent, of iodoform. 
 
 Lavender 
 
 Cloves 
 
 Lemons 
 
 Rosemary 
 
 Casaia 
 
 
 Petroleum ether dissolves 1 per cent, 
 and benzole li per cent, of iodoform, 
 both solutions assuming a rose color in 
 a short time. 
 
 lodoform Pencils. Mechanical mixt- 
 ures of finely powdered iodoform with 
 gelatine and glycerine, which in the 
 form of cylindrical elastic pencils are 
 introduced into wounds, have been in 
 use for some time. Recently a demand 
 has sprung up for such pencils contain- 
 ing a large percentage of iodoform, 
 and Vulpius has, by the following 
 process, succeeded in incorporating as 
 much as 50 per cent. Dissolve on a 
 water-bath 15 parts of the best gelatine 
 in 50 parts of water and 7.5 parts of 
 glycerine, and evaporate the solution 
 to*54 parts ; then intimately mix with 
 it 27 parts of iodoform rubbed as fine 
 as possible, and pour the paste into a 
 moderately heated mould, which to ac- 
 celerate congelation, and to prevent the 
 heavy iodoform powder from sinking to 
 the bottom, is immediately placed in 
 ice-water. The congealed cylinders are 
 finally dried to of their* weight by 
 being placed in a dry ing- room. 
 
 Aromatic Balsam. Mix in a por- 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 celain mortar 33 parts of pressed nut- 
 meg oil, 4 parts each of oils of cloves 
 and lavender, 1.33 parts of oil of 
 amber, and 6 parts of black Peruvian 
 balsam. This balsam is an excellent 
 remedy for colic in children, applied 
 by rubbing it on the stomach. 
 
 Locatelli's Balsam for Wounds and 
 Ulcers. Melt in a copper pan 500 parts 
 of yellow wax, then add 750 parts of olive 
 oil and 500 parts of Venetian turpen- 
 tine. Take the pan from the fire, and 
 then add 66 parts of black Peruvian 
 balsam and 33 parts of pulverized red 
 sanders wood. 
 
 Soap Balsam for Sprains. I. Pul- 
 verize in a mortar 25 parts of Vene- 
 tian soap, and add gradually during 
 the operation 75 parts of oil of tur- 
 pentine. Form a paste of the mixture 
 and keep it for future use. 
 
 11. To Prepare the Balsam, dissolve 
 the paste in 150 parts of rectified 
 spirit of wine and filter the solution. 
 
 Gelatine Capsules for Medicinal 
 Purposes. Dissolve 8 parts of gelatine, 
 2 of sugar, and 1 of gum-Arabic in 8 of 
 water in a water-bath. Dip iron pins, 
 the lower ends of which are pear- 
 shaped and slightly oiled, into the 
 lukewarm solution. The thin gelatine 
 films formed on the iron pins when 
 congealed are detached and placed in a 
 hole of a corresponding size in wooden 
 forms, and allowed to dry. The cap- 
 sules, when thoroughly dry, are filled 
 with the respective medicines, and 
 closed with a drop of the same solution. 
 
 English Plaster. Prepare a concen- 
 trated solution of gelatine in warm 
 water, and compound it with pure al- 
 cohol. Stretch silk taffeta of a flesh 
 or black color in a frame, and apply 3 
 coats of the solution, allowing 1 coat 
 to dry thoroughly before laying on 
 the next. When the last coat is dry, 
 give the whole a coat of tincture of 
 Peruvian balsam. 
 
 Malt Extract. Allow a mixture of 
 equal parts of crushed malt and water 
 to stand for 3 hours, add 4 parts of 
 warm water, and keep the mixture for 
 1 hour at a temperature of 150 F. 
 The compound is then boiled up once, 
 pressed, filtered, and evaporated as 
 quickly as possible. 
 
 Malt Extract with Iron. Dissolve 2 
 parts of phosphate of iron with some 
 
 citrate of ammonium in 3 parts of dis- 
 tilled water, and mix the solution with 
 95 parts of malt extract. 
 
 Malt Extract witk Lime. Two parts 
 of calcium hypophosphite and 100 of 
 malt extract. 
 
 Malt Extract and Quinine. One 
 part of neutral quimotannic acid and 
 100 of malt extract. 
 
 Malt Extract and Pepsin. Five 
 parts of German pepsin and 95 of malt 
 extract. 
 
 Malt Extract and Iodide of Iron. 
 Five parts of iodide of iron and 95 of 
 malt extract. 
 
 Neutral Citrate of Magnesium. Cor- 
 nelis gives the following method of pre- 
 paring citrate of magnesium free from 
 impurities and injurious excess of citric 
 acid, which have been complained of 
 as existing in the ordinary commercial 
 article. Dissolve 100 parts of citric 
 acid in 300 parts of boiling distilled 
 water, saturate the solution with about 
 70 parts of basic carbonate of magne- 
 sium, leaving a slight excess of acid, 
 filter the warm solution and place it in 
 a cool place, where in 24 hours it con- 
 geals to a cheese-like mass. This, 
 consisting of citrate of magnesium with 
 14 equivalents of water, is pressed 
 and the cake remaining in the cloth 
 broken up in small pieces, which 
 are dried at 70 to 75 F. and pul- 
 verized. The product is a tasteless, 
 neutral powder of a dull white color, 
 and soluble in double its weight of 
 boiling water ; 100 parts of it consist 
 of 46 per cent, of citric acid, 17 per 
 cent, of oxide of magnesium, and 37 per 
 cent, of water. 
 
 Neutralizing the Taste of Cod-liver 
 Oil. Mix with each table-spoonful of 
 oil 12 drops of the following compound : 
 Two ounces of essence of lemon, 1 ounce 
 of sulphuric ether, ounce each of the 
 essential oils of caraway, peppermint, 
 and cloves. 
 
 New American Patent Medicines. 
 Phosphorole is a solution of 0.6 per cent, 
 of phosphorus in cod-liver oil, arid is 
 recommended in phthisis. Hydroleine, 
 another remedy for the same disease, 
 consists of soda J grain, boracic acid | 
 grain, water 35 drops, pancreatine 5 
 grains, hyocholic acid (from hog-blad- 
 der) & grain, and cod-liver oil 80 drops. 
 Dose : 2 tea-spoonfuls. 
 
PHARMACEUTICAL PREPARATIONS. 
 
 297 
 
 Fluid Hydrastis is an alcoholic ex- 
 tract of Hydrastis canadensis inisciable 
 with water, syrup, and glycerine. 
 
 Lacto-pepsin is recommended as a 
 universal remedy for dyspepsia and 
 other diseases of the stomach. It con- 
 sists of: Milk sugar 40 ounces, pepsin 
 8 ounces, pancreatine 6 ounces, vege- 
 table ptyalin (diastase) 4 drachms, 
 lactic acid 5 drachms, and hydrochloric 
 acid 5 drachms. 
 
 Thermaline is a mixture of cinchona 
 alkaloids and extract of eucalyptus, 
 and is claimed to be much superior to 
 all other fever remedies, quinine in- 
 cluded. 
 
 Oleum Aromaticum Compostium 
 (Spice Oil for Kitchen Use). Oil of 
 cloves 1 part, oil of mace 3.5, oil of cin- 
 namon 5, essential oil of bitter almonds 
 2.5, oil of lemon 30, and absolute alco- 
 hol 50. Mix. 
 
 Opodeldoc. Soap free from stearine 
 12 parts, camphor 8, spirits of wine 
 320, oil of thyme 1, oil of rosemary 2, 
 and spirit of ammonia 16. 
 
 Pepsin Wine with Malt. Prof. Ernst 
 Schmidt,, of Lille, France, furnishes the 
 following receipt: Pepsin extract and 
 maltine extract each 5i parts, chlo- 
 ride of sodium 5, good cognac 45, old 
 Chablis wine 400, vin de Grenache de 
 Gollivure 500. By pepsin extract the 
 author means a solution of pepsin pre- 
 pared in conformity with the directions 
 given in the "Pharmacopoeia," and 
 evaporated to the consistency of thick 
 extract, and to which 10 per cent, of 
 glycerine has been added. The malt- 
 ine extract is prepared by pouring 
 over crushed malt 10 times its weight 
 of cold water, macerating it for 24 
 hours, and straining and pressing. 
 Strong alcohol is added to the fluid, 
 causing a copious precipitate to be 
 formed, from which the fluid is after 
 24 hours filtered off, and fresh alcohol 
 added to it. This is again allowed to 
 settle for 24 hours, when the fluid is 
 carefully poured off, the result being a 
 shiny precipitate and a clear liquid. 
 The latter is distilled to regain the 
 alcohol, while the precipitate is evap* 
 orated to the consistency of a thick ex- 
 tract, and then compounded with 10 
 per cent, of glycerine. 
 
 Plastic Bandage. Tissues or text- 
 urea of any material are saturated 
 
 with a solution of asphaltum with an 
 alternate addition of rosin and coal tar, 
 or gallipot and pitch, and eventually 
 lime. When the finished and hard 
 bandage is to be used it is only neces- 
 sary to soak it in hot water and apply 
 it . to the broken limb, where it con- 
 geals in a short time. 
 
 Plasters. Simple Lead Plaster. Boil 
 equal quantities of elutriated litharge 
 and of olive oil in a copper pan over a 
 moderate fire, stirring constantly, and 
 adding occasionally a few drops of 
 water until the plaster has assumed the 
 necessary consistency. 
 
 Compound Lead Plaster. Melt to- 
 gether 200 parts of simple lead plaster 
 and 25 parts of yellow wax. In the 
 meanwhile dissolve on the water-bath 
 13 parts each of purified gum am- 
 moniac and purified galbanum in 13 
 parts of ordinary turpentine, and mix 
 the solution intimately with the above 
 compound. 
 
 Preparation of SticJcing Plaster. 
 Boil in a copper pan 175 parts of pul- 
 verized litharge and 300 parts of olive 
 oil, adding occasionally a few drops of 
 water, to the consistency of plaster, 
 which is stirred at a gentle heat until 
 all the water has been evaporated and 
 the mass has a grayish-white color. 
 Remove it from the fire, and, while 
 yet warm, add a mixture of 200 parts 
 of rosin and 400 parts of common tur- 
 pentine. Then evaporate, with con- 
 stant stirring, until it ceases to foam, 
 cool it and break into pieces or mould 
 into sticks. 
 
 New Sticking Plaster by Dr. A. new- 
 son. Dissolve glue in boiling water. 
 Compound the solution with 25 per 
 cent, of officinal acetic acid, perfume 
 with rose oil, and spread it upon paper, 
 gauze or muslin. 
 
 Galbanum and Saffron Plaster. 
 Place in a copper pan 200 parts of sim- 
 ple lead plaster and 66 parts of yellow 
 wax. Let the compound cool off some- 
 what and then add 200 parts of purified 
 galbanum, previously dissolved on the 
 water-bath, in 33 parts of ordinary tur- 
 pentine, and finally 20 parts of pul- 
 verised saffron, and mix the whole 
 thoroughly. 
 
 Saffron Plaster. Melt together in a 
 copper pan 250 parts each of yellow 
 wax and rosin, and strain through a 
 
298 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 cloth. Dissolve 66 parts each of gum 
 ammoniac and purified gal ban um in 
 250 parts of common turpentine. Mix 
 it with the above composition, and stir 
 in 66 parts each of pulverized saffron, 
 mastic, myrrh, and frankincense. The 
 result will be a yellowish - brown 
 plaster. 
 
 /Soap Plaster. Melt in a porcelain 
 dish 150 parts of simple lead plaster 
 and 25 parts of yellow wax and mix 
 the compound with 10 parts of pul- 
 verized Castile soap. 
 
 Powdered Camphor. Glycerine is 
 the simplest and most efficient sub- 
 stance to keep camphor in a finely 
 divided state. Mix 2 parts of glycerine 
 in 10 parts of alcohol and triturate it 
 with 150 parts of camphor to a fine 
 powder. 
 
 Antarthritic Papers. Buchner's An- 
 tarthritic Paper. Digest 11 parts of 
 pulverized euphorbium, 22 parts of 
 cantharides powder in 234 parts of 90 
 per cent, alcohol. When thoroughly 
 extracted, compound the extract with 
 11 parts of Venetian turpentine, then 
 immerse fine paper in the mixture, and 
 dry it in the air. 
 
 English Antarthritic Paper. Digest 
 29 parts of pulverized euphorbium and 
 14.5 parts of pulverized cantharides in 
 146 parts of alcohol for 8 to 10 days; 
 then filter, and dissolve in the filtrate 
 58.5 parts of white rosin and 44 parts 
 of Venetian turpentine. Apply three 
 coats of the resulting varnish-like solu- 
 tion to thick letter-paper. 
 
 PHOTOGRAPHY. 
 
 Alcoholic Solution of Gelatine is 
 easily prepared by allowing the hard 
 gelatine to swell up in water, then 
 melting and finally adding 4 to 5 times 
 its quantity of 95 per cent, alcohol. 
 The solution remains entirely clear, 
 runs off like collodion, and dries far 
 quicker than gelatine emulsion with 5 
 per cent, of alcohol, and it can be com- 
 pounded with ammonia to basic re- 
 action without injuring its firmness. 
 
 According to Herschel, a mixture of 
 1 part of dilute nitro-muriatic acid and 
 48 parts of rectified spirit of wine dis- 
 solves almost any quantity of heated 
 gelatine. Poured over plates the solu^ 
 
 tion dries twice as quickly as plates 
 treated with collodion. Ether and 
 chloroform compounded with the above 
 acid mixture also dissolves gelatine. 
 
 Alkaline Gelatine Developer. Dis- 
 solve 1J ounces of Nelson's amber 
 gelatine in 2i fluid ounces of water 
 over a water-bath, then add 1 fluid 
 ounce of saturated solution of caustic 
 soda, and boil until the solution is 
 thinly fluid. Take 1 part of this solu- 
 tion to 8 parts of solution of pyrogallic 
 acid in the proportion of 1 to 250. No 
 bromide of potassium is required ; 
 expose for a very short time ; an over- 
 exposure cannot be remedied. 
 
 Chloride of Silver and Gelatine 
 Emulsion. Water 1000 parts, gelatine 
 50, nitrate of silver 15, chloride of lime 5, 
 citric acid 5 to 10. Dissolve each 
 chemical by itself in a part of the 
 water. Then add to the gelatine first 
 the nitrate of silver, next the chloride of 
 lime, and finally the citric acid. It 
 does not matter should the emulsion 
 become red. It is now ready for use 
 without washing. Coat glass plates 
 with the emulsion and print quite dark 
 in the photo-printing frame. The 
 shades bronze quickly and the inten- 
 sity with workable emulsion is good. In 
 case the tones are a dirty yellow in- 
 stead of black the quantity of citric 
 acid must be increased, which will al- 
 ways rectify this evil. The diaposi- 
 tives thus produced must be still fur- 
 ther toned, which is best done in a bath 
 of cyanide of gold. It is fixed with weak 
 hyposulphite, then washed, tanned 
 with alum, and finally washed again. 
 
 Claudet's Instantaneous Positive Pa- 
 per. Float the paper on a solution of 
 500 parts of distilled water and 20 parts 
 of corrosive sublimate, then dry it and 
 wash with a solution of 5 parts of ni- 
 trate of silver in 60 parts of distilled 
 water. The negative is exposed to the 
 light over this prepared paper for 2 
 seconds to 1 minute. The picture is 
 developed by immersion in a bath of 1 
 part of sulphate of iron, li parts of 
 radical vinegar, and 30 parts of dis- 
 tilled water. The positive picture is 
 then washed and fixed with sodium 
 hyposulphite. 
 
 Cleansing Mixture for Glass Plates. 
 Mix two parts of alcohol, 1 of am- 
 monia, and 15 of water. 
 
PHOTOGRAPHY. 
 
 299 
 
 Cleansing Fluid for Glass Plates. 
 This is especially efficient in case iron 
 salts have been used for the developing 
 bath. Mix 30 parts of water, 7 parts 
 of hydrochloric acid, and a trace of 
 iodine. Rub the plate with a linen 
 rag moistened with the fluid, and then 
 polish in the usual manner. 
 
 Clear Caoutchouc Solutions. Tie 30 
 parts of caoutchouc, cut up in small 
 pieces, in a small linen bag, fasten this 
 to the cork of a bottle containing 1000 
 parts of benzine, in such manner that 
 it floats upon the surface of the ben- 
 zine. Allow it to stand perfectly quiet 
 for 6 to 8 days. During this time the 
 soluble portion of the caoutchouc 
 passes over into the benzine, while the 
 contents of the bag swell up enormous- 
 ly. The resulting solution, which is as 
 clear as water and thickly fluid, con- 
 tains 1.2 to 1.5 per cent, of caoutchouc. 
 The swelled residue retains about i to 
 J of the benzine used, and may serve 
 for the manufacture of an ordinary 
 caoutchouc varnish. 
 
 We would here remark that a solution 
 of caoutchouc in benzine kept in half- 
 full bottles becomes decomposed when 
 exposed to light ; that is to say, a thick- 
 ish solution becomes thinly fluid and is 
 no longer available for photographic 
 purposes. Although the solution will 
 undergo the same change when kept in 
 the dark it requires at least three times 
 as long. 
 
 Damson's Tannin Plates. 1. Receipt 
 for the Collodion Cotton. Sulphuric acid 
 of 1.840 specific gravity 1000 parts, 
 nitric acid of 1.450 specific gravity 360 
 parts, water 240 parts, and cotton 50 
 parts. 
 
 2. Collodion. Collodion cotton ^ part, 
 ether of 0.725 specific gravity 15 parts, 
 alcohol of 0.810 specific gravity 15 
 parts, cadmium iodide ^ part, cadmi- 
 um bromide A part. 
 
 3. Solution of Tannin. One part of 
 tannin dissolved in 30 parts of distilled 
 water. 
 
 Developer for Gelatine Plates. 
 Mottu, of Amsterdam, uses the following 
 formula for developing emulsion nega- 
 tives : Saturated solution of potassium 
 ferricyanide and water each 120 parts, 
 and pyrogallic acid 1 part. Before 
 using the developer a few drops of am- 
 monia are added to every 15 parts of it; 
 
 the plate is then washed and dipped 
 into the mixture. 
 
 Davanne's Intensifies In case a 
 plate has been spoiled it is, after expos- 
 ure, only partly developed and fixed 
 with solution of cyanide of potassium. 
 The plate, after having been freed from 
 the last traces of the fixing salt by 
 washing, is treated twice or several 
 times with a solution of 2 grains of 
 pyrogallic acid, 1 grain of citric acid, and 
 10 drops of radical vinegar in 1 fluid 
 ounce of distilled water, to which a few 
 drops of a solution of silver of 15 per 
 cent, have been added. It is next 
 treated with the following fluids: 
 
 1. Iodine 5i grains, iodide of potas- 
 sium 10 grains, and distilled water 1 
 fluid ounce. 
 
 2. Sulphate of potassium 1 drachm, 
 distilled water 6 fluid ounces. 
 
 Solution No. 1 is poured over the 
 plate either in daylight or in the dark 
 room, and allowed to remain upon it 
 until the precipitate is perfectly yellow ; 
 it is then rinsed off with water and so- 
 lution No. 2 poured upon it, and this 
 allowed to remain until the yellow 
 color is changed into a deep brown. 
 
 Developing Solution of Oxalate of 
 Iron. The following receipt is by 
 H. W. Vogel: a. Neutral oxalate of 
 potassium 9 ounces, water 1 quart. 6. 
 Sulphate of iron 3 ounces, water 10 
 fluid ounces, sulphuric acid 2 to 3 
 drops. A supply of both solutions 
 should be kept on hand. For use mix 
 3 volumes of a with 1 of b. Should the 
 plates appear clouded add to 4 fluid 
 ounces of the mixed solutions several 
 drops of a solution of bromide of 
 potassium, containing 3 parts of bro- 
 mide to 50 of water. 
 
 Direction for Calculating Focus Dis- 
 tances for Enlarging Pictures. Multi- 
 ply the focal length of the lens used by 
 the number of times of enlargement 
 required and add the focal length to 
 the product. For instance, the nega- 
 tive is to be enlarged 3 times with an 
 objective having a focal length of 4 
 inches ; the ground glass of the camera 
 must be 16 inches from the lens, viz. : 
 3X4+4 inches of focal length equals 16 
 inches. The distance the negative is 
 to be in front of the lens is always more 
 than the focal length, but less than 
 twice the focal length. 
 
300 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Email Photographs. The object of 
 this process is to treat photographic 
 pictures in such a manner that they 
 appear to stand out from the surface of 
 the picture. The process is as follows : 
 The photograph is carefully colored 
 with fine gum colors, mostly transpa- 
 rent. The negative is covered on the 
 collodion side with a good glass plate 
 free from scratches, and fastened to it 
 with clamps. The outlines of the 
 figures are then drawn upon the glass 
 plate with a fine brush, and black 
 spirit lacquer and the ground of the 
 negative filled in with the same kind 
 of lacquer, so that only the figures re- 
 main free and clear. The glass plate 
 is now removed from the negative, and 
 the coating with spirit lacquer, after 
 the first coat is dry, is repeated. The 
 coating is now allowed to dry thorough- 
 ly; the black negative mask is then 
 placed exactly upon the colored posi- 
 tive, and both joined together on the 
 edges with strips of paper. Although 
 the colored figure lies in reality behind 
 the black glass plate, it seems never- 
 theless to stand out from it. 
 
 Gelatine Emulsions. Abney con- 
 firms the observations of others that 
 gelatine emulsions become more sensi- 
 tive with age. He states also that 
 emulsion plates inclined to curl lose 
 this fault entirely after having been 
 kept for some time. He also recom- 
 mends the following process for inten- 
 sifying weak plates: The plate, after 
 having been fixed, is first washed for 
 half an hour with fresh water, which is 
 changed every 10 minutes, then placed 
 for half an hour longer in a mixture of 
 1 part of diluted dioxide of hydrogen 
 and 60 parts of water, and finally 
 washed with pure water for 5 min- 
 utes. The intensifying solution con- 
 sists of: I. Pyrogallic acid and citric 
 acid each 1 part, and water 480 parts. 
 II. Nitrate of silver 1 part, water 24 
 parts. To 30 parts of No. I add 1 of 
 No. II. The intensifying must be 
 done in the dark room. 
 
 Glace or Enamelled Photographs. 
 Over a perfectly clean glass sprinkle 
 pulverized talc and with a tuft of cot- 
 ton rub it on the glass with a circular 
 movement until every particle of the 
 talc disappears. The talc gives a sur- 
 face to the glass that assists in lifting 
 
 the enamelled print from it. Now flow 
 the plate with collodion prepared as 
 follows : Four and one-half fluid ounces 
 of ether, 3i fluid ounces of alcohol, 
 sufficient cotton to thicken, and 24 
 drops of castor oil. When this flow is 
 dry, apply the prints face downward, 
 after immersing them in a solution of 
 gelatine made as follows: Cox's gela- 
 tine 1 ounce, water 8J fluid ounces, and 
 glycerine 50 drops. Add the gelatine 
 and glycerine to the water, and let it 
 stand over night, when it will be ready 
 for use after filtering. AlloAV the prints 
 to remain in this solution about 5 
 minutes before laying them on the 
 collodionized glass, and then pass a 
 gum roller lightly over them to press 
 them tightly to the glass, and also to 
 remove the excess of gelatine. After 
 the prints are nearly dry they are 
 ready for the mounts. For this pur- 
 pose light Bristol board is best. Use 
 the gelatine solution for mounting and 
 mount on the glass as the prints lie. 
 It is a good plan to lay upon the back, 
 after the mounts have been applied, a 
 weight of some kind, as a heavy piece 
 of glass, which should remain there for 
 an hour at least. This assists in secur- 
 ing a complete contact to the print. 
 The whole must be perfectly dry before 
 an attempt is made to remove the 
 prints from the glass. When they are 
 thoroughly dry run a knife blade 
 around the edge to start them up; and 
 if the work has been properly done 
 they will come off all right. Careful 
 manipulation is the only surety for suc- 
 cess. A little experience will enable 
 any one to perform this operation well. 
 
 Gold and Fixing Baths. As soon as 
 the impressions come from the printing 
 frame they are drawn through 3 or 4 
 washing waters, and then immersed in 
 a dish with water to which a handful 
 of common salt has been added. 
 
 Toning Bath. Chloride of gold 1 
 grain, sodium acetate 32 grains, sodium 
 carbonate 4V grains, water 81 fluid 
 ounces. The following solution should 
 be kept on hand : Chloride of gold 15 
 grains, sodium acetate 1 ounce, water 12| 
 fluid ounces, some of this being added 
 from time to time to the toning bath as 
 it becomes weaker by use. The copies, 
 after toning, are several times washed 
 with water containing some common 
 
PHOTOGRAPHY. 
 
 301 
 
 *alt, and finished in the following bath : 
 Water 3 fluid ounces and sodium hy- 
 posulphite 8J ounces. 
 
 The fixing bath is previously neu- 
 tralized with sodium carbonate or am- 
 monia. 
 
 New Intensifying Bath for Gelatine 
 Negatives. Mix successively the fol- 
 lowing solution : a, corrosive sublimate 
 4 parts, and water 200; b, iodide of 
 potassium 6 parts, and water 66 ; and c, 
 sodium acetate 8 parts, and water 66. 
 This intensifying bath has the advan- 
 tage over other solutions tbat it can be 
 usi-d immediately after fixing the 
 plates, and it gives the requisite inten- 
 sity, even to the thinnest negatives, in a 
 few minutes. 
 
 New Developer for Bromide of Silver 
 Dry Plates. Edwards' glycerine pyro- 
 gallic developer is superseding the 
 simple pyrogallic developer, having 
 greater scope in the exposure and con- 
 trol of the development. The follow- 
 ing solutions are used : A. Pyrogallic 
 acid and glycerine each 1 part, and 
 alcohol 6. B. Bromide of potassium 1 
 part, ammonia of 0.880 specific gravity 
 and glycerine each 8, and water 50. 
 Both concentrated solutions keep for a 
 long time. For use in developing pour 
 30 parts of water into a saucer, add 1 
 part of solution A, and a like quantity 
 of solution B, and submerge the emul- 
 sion plate in it. With a correct expos- 
 ure the image appears in a few seconds, 
 and the development is finished in a 
 minute. Should the picture, in con- 
 sequence of over-exposure, appear too 
 suddenly, the developer must imme- 
 diately be poured off 1 , water poured into 
 the saucer and some of solution A 
 added, which with the residue of the 
 remaining ammonia will sufficiently 
 develop the plate. 
 
 New Method of Preparing Emulsion, 
 especially in hot weather, and which 
 saves all washing, is as follows: Pre- 
 pare the following solutions: I. Silver 
 400 parts, water 2800 parts. II. Bro- 
 mide of ammonium 240 parts, gelatine 
 24 parts, water 2800 parts, and acid- 
 ulate slightly with hydrochloric acid. 
 
 III. Gelatine 20 parts, water 465 parts. 
 
 IV. Hard gelatine and soft gelatine 
 each 240 parts, water 2230 parts. When 
 No. II. is melted add gradually No. I. 
 and boil for 4 hour. Then cool it to 
 
 about 100 F. and add No. III. Let 
 the whole cool, then shake with 1160 
 parts of alcohol, when the whole will 
 be precipitated in about 5 minutes. 
 The supernatant liquor contains some 
 traces of bromide of silver, but of so 
 little value that it is best to pour the 
 fluid off, although by filtering it can be 
 obtained entirely clear. Now add 
 again 1860 to 2800 parts of alcohol to 
 the precipitate to make it more solid, 
 and then pour off the alcohol. The 
 precipitate may be washed once more 
 with water, though it is not necessary., 
 Now mix the precipitate with No. IV. 
 keep it warm for some time and shake 
 until all is thoroughly mixed. 
 
 New Photo-printing Receipts. I. 
 Preliminary Preparation. Flow thor- 
 oughly cleansed plates with the fol- 
 lowing mixture : Potash water-glass 
 1 rart and Pilsen beer 11 parts. When 
 all the plates have been flowed heat 
 them somewhat and let them stand till 
 the next morning, when they are again 
 heated, washed, and stood aside to dry. 
 
 II. Chrome-gelatine Layer. Wash 
 25 parts of gelatine in several waters 
 and let them swell up in the last water. 
 Then dissolve 7.5 parts of chrome-alum 
 in 200 parts of distilled water, add the 
 soaked gelatine, and heat the whole to 
 120 F. When the gelatine is entirely 
 dissolved add 2.5 parts each of bichro- 
 mate of potassium and bichromate of 
 ammonium. The plate before flowing 
 is somewhat heated. 
 
 Fixing Solution. Glycerine 500 parts, 
 ammonia 50, hyposulphite of sodium 
 12, and water 250. 
 
 Fhiid for Drawing off Negatives. 
 Gelatine 36 parts, radical vinegar 100, 
 and glycerine 6 to 8. The solution re- 
 mains liquid even on cooling, and the 
 negatives can be flowed cold. 
 
 Painting the Operating Room. Blue, 
 which is generally used, prolongs the 
 taking of a picture instead of accelerat- 
 ing it. The best paint for the walls of 
 the operating room is an orange-green, 
 obtained by mixing orange with pea- 
 green. If, "further, the collodion layer 
 and the silver-bath are colored violet 
 the complementary color of orange- 
 green the picture is under favorable 
 conditions taken instantaneously, while 
 under less favorable circumstances it 
 requires but 2 to 3 seconds. 
 
3.02 
 
 TECIINO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Pe'tschler's New Dry Method of Pre- 
 paring Plates. The plates prepared by 
 this method are not affected by day- 
 light, and can be again sensitized by 
 washing before exposure in water in 
 the dark room. It simplifies without 
 varying greatly from the ordinary pro- 
 cess. 
 
 The collodionized and sensitized plate 
 is first washed and then coated with 
 albumen, which, in place of iodide, 
 contains only 2 to 4 parts of common 
 salt to 100 parts of albumen. The plate 
 is then dried by submitting it to a great 
 heat, and is not sensitive. Instead of 
 sensitizing it in a silver-bath it is sim- 
 ply washed in the dark with pure 
 water, whereby the layer becomes 
 again sensitive. 
 
 Photo-diaphanie, or Process of Trans- 
 ferring Photographs together with the 
 Albumen layer on Glass, Porcelain, etc. 
 Float the paper 2 minutes in a bath 
 consisting of nitrate of silver 6 parts 
 and water 30 parts, then dry and ex- 
 pose it under a negative until the 
 picture is copied. Wash with water, 
 and tone the picture in a solution of 1 
 part of chloride of gold, 30 parts of 
 sodium acetate, and 1050 parts of wa- 
 ter, and neutralized with carbonate of 
 sodium. Let the solution stand for 24 
 hours. After it has been used acidu- 
 late it slightly with hydrochloric acid, 
 and when it is to be employed again 
 neutralize the acid with carbonate of 
 sodium and add, if necessary, some 
 neutralized chloride of gold. 
 
 After toning the diaphanie picture is 
 placed in pure water. As soon as the 
 albumen layer begins to detach itself 
 from the paper place the picture in a 
 fixingbatn consisting of sodium hyporal- 
 
 Shite 4 parts and water 20, which will 
 etach the film entirely from the paper. 
 The film remains in the bath about 10 
 minutes, whereby it becomes very 
 elastic and, after' washing thoroughly 
 with water, fit for transferring. It is 
 laid wet on the article to be decorated, 
 which must be entirely free from 
 grease.' If the film should not adhere 
 properly wash it with a mixture of 
 radical vinegar of 32 1 part and dis- 
 tilled water 6, which renders it again 
 elastic. When properly fastened re- 
 move all traces of acid by washing. 
 Photo-emulsions. Improvements by 
 
 j If. W. Vogel. The improvements con- 
 ; sist in a combination of emulsion of 
 bromide of silver and gelatine emul- 
 sion with pyroxyline. Four different 
 methods may be employed. 
 
 1 . Prepare a gelatine emulsion with 
 bromide of silver (or iodide or chloride 
 of silver). Dry and dissolve the emul- 
 sion in 3 to 10 times its quantity of 
 formic or acetic acid. This acidulated 
 emulsion is used either by itself or 
 compounded with pyroxyline. 
 
 2. Dissolve pyroxyline by itself in 
 one of the above acids with an addition 
 of alcohol, and mix the solution with 
 equal parts by volume of the above 
 acidulated emulsion. 
 
 3. Prepare an ordinary collodion 
 emulsion, precipitate it with water, 
 dry the precipitate, and dissolve it in 
 one of the acids mentioned, and add 
 gelatine either direct or in solution. 
 
 4. Dissolve gelatine and pyroxyline 
 and add finely powdered bromide of 
 silver (iodide or chloride of silver), or 
 produce them in the solution. These 
 new emulsions can be used either dry 
 or wet. 
 
 Photo-printing without a Press. A 
 carbon picture is prepared on a glass 
 plate in the usual manner, and the 
 picture surrounded by a wooden frame 
 which exactly encloses the glass plate. 
 Now pour on a moderately warm mixt- 
 ure consisting of gelatine 1 part, gum- 
 Arabic and glycerine each 2, and pos- 
 sessing the consistency of the mixture 
 used in ordinary printing. When 
 solidification has taken place the frame 
 or rim is carefully removed with a 
 hammer, and the gelatine plate, which 
 has united itself with the carbon picture, 
 is cautiously turned over. With re- 
 spect to the printing the blackening of 
 the picture ft performed with a glass 
 roller and is best managed with an 
 elastic runner, as practised by the ordi- 
 nary printer. The printing-ink, which 
 must be of good consistency, is dissolved 
 in oil of turpentine or benzol. This 
 solution without an addition of varnish 
 is poured on the plate and distributed 
 by the glass roller. A non-coagulated 
 albuminized paper is now spread over 
 the blackened picture with due pre- 
 cautions. The paper should not lie too 
 long on the plate, otherwise the albumen 
 layer is apt to dissolve and soil the 
 
PHOTOGRAPHY. 
 
 303 
 
 plate. Moistening the plate with water 
 is not necessary, as the plate is moist 
 enough for the printing of a dozen 
 pictures. After continuous use it ex- 
 hausts itself, but still it is hygroscopic 
 enough to absorb moisture in a few 
 hours to be ready again for printing. 
 This method has the advantage that 
 the print is obtained in relief; also 
 that round or cylindrical objects, as 
 flasks, vases, etc., can be printed. 
 
 Photographic Process with Phospho- 
 rescent Substances. The following 
 process has recently been published by 
 Warnerke : Coat a glass plate or paper 
 with a layer of phosphorescent sul- 
 phide, using albumen as agglutinant 
 to protect the powder from atmospheric 
 influence. By preparing the phos- 
 phorescent surface upon a collodion- 
 ized glass plate, and drawing off the 
 film, a flexible layer is obtained. The 
 plate coated with calcium sulphide is 
 dark as long as not subjected to the 
 action of light, but on exposure in the 
 camera for about 1 minute, and 
 brought into the dark room, the points 
 struck by the light will appear lumi- 
 nous. By placing the luminous pict- 
 ure upon an -emulsion plate for about 
 5 minutes, and then developing it, a 
 complete negative, but reverse, will be 
 obtained. An exposure of the phospho- 
 rescent plate fora few seconds suffices to 
 obtain an image visible in the dark 
 room ; heating the plate increases the 
 luminosity. The picture remains lu- 
 minous sufficiently long to allow of sev- 
 eral copies being successively taken 
 upon emulsion plates. It is a remark- 
 able fact that the picture produced in 
 the camera is not sharp, the cause of 
 this being evidently that the focus of 
 the system of lenses is not corrected for 
 rays promoting phosphorescence (es- 
 pecially ultra-violet and violet rays). 
 A phosphorescent plate after having 
 become luminous remains so in the 
 dark for several hours, the luminosity 
 gradually disappearing after that time, 
 but in a red or green light it is extin- 
 guished in a few minutes. By ex- 
 posing a luminous plate to bright day- 
 light under a red glass plate, or green 
 aniline layer, for several minutes it 
 loses the power of emitting light in the 
 dark. When a phosphorescent plate 
 is exposed under an ordinary negative 
 
 a luminous image is obtained which, 
 on being brought in contact with an 
 emulsion plate, allows of a sharp posi- 
 tive being taken. By exposing a phos- 
 phorescent plate to the light, then 
 covering it with a negative and a col- 
 ored plate, extinguishing luminosity, 
 and again exposing it, a luminous 
 positive image is obtained, because the 
 points struck by the colored light lose 
 the power of emitting light in the dark. 
 With phosphorescent plates it is possi- 
 ble, according to Warnerke, to obtain 
 photographs from the red end of the 
 spectrum. The entire surface of the 
 plate must first be exposed to the light. 
 On being struck by the spectrum of the 
 sun the less refrangible rays (on the 
 red end) destroy the illuminating 
 power, and leave only Fraunhofer's 
 dark lines gleaming upon the plate. 
 These can then be transferred to a 
 gelatine or collodion plate. Lieuten- 
 ant Darwin has made similar experi- 
 ments, using JBalmain's luminous 
 paint. He exposed a phosphorescent 
 plate to the sunlight 3 to 4 seconds, 
 covered it with a negative and a red 
 glass plate, and submitted the whole 
 to the rays of the sun for 1 minutes, 
 and, as soon as the plate was brought 
 into the dark room, a luminous nega- 
 tive made its appearance. This, on 
 being brought in contact with a dry 
 plate for 30 seconds, and then devel- 
 oped, gave a negative picture. 
 
 Photographic Reproduction. This 
 new process is based on the property 
 of perchloride of iron being reduced to 
 protochloride by light. The latter 
 salt is not changed by a solution of 
 prussiate of potash, while the former 
 is immediately colored blue. The 
 copying paper is sensitized by immer- 
 sion in a bath formed of 100 parts of 
 water, and 10 of perchloride of iron, 
 and 5 of oxalic acid. The drawing, 
 on transparent paper, is placed on a 
 dry sheet of the copying paper and 
 exposed to the light under glass from 
 15 to 30 seconds in summer and 40 to 
 70 seconds in winter. After exposure 
 the sheet is placed in a bath of prussi- 
 ate of potash (15 : 100), which immedi- 
 ately colors blue all the parts where 
 the perchloride has remained intact, 
 but does not affect the places where 
 the salt has been reduced by light. 
 
304 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 The drawing is then washed with 
 water, and passed into a bath of 8 to 10 
 per cent, of hydrochloric acid, which 
 removes the salt of protoxide of iron; 
 then it is washed again and dried. 
 The drawing now appears in deep blue 
 tints on a very white ground, and looks 
 like a drawing made by hand with blue 
 ink. 
 
 Platinotypy. This new process of 
 photo-chemical printing in metallic 
 platinum has been recently improved 
 by Roppe. He gives the following 
 directions : Dissolve 500 parts of chlo- 
 ride of iron perfectly pure and dry in 
 1000 parts of water. Then prepare a 
 warm solution of carbonate of sodium 
 entirely free from potash salts. Both 
 salts are found sufficiently pure in 
 commerce. Then filter the solutions, 
 and precipitate the solution of chloride 
 of iron with the soda solution by add- 
 ing the latter as long as a precipitate 
 is formed. The result will be ferric 
 hydrate which, by settling and washing 
 with water, is freed as much as possible 
 from sodium chloride which has been 
 formed, after which it is collected in a 
 funnel arranged for quick filtration. 
 When dry the ferric hydrate is dis- 
 solved in a concentrated" hot solution 
 of oxalic acid. This is best accomplished 
 by pouring the latter gradually to the 
 precipitate contained in a beaker glass, 
 care being had to avoid an excess. 
 Now introduce 12 parts of sodium 
 chloro-platinite, or, if this cannot be 
 procured, 10 parts of platinum tetra- 
 chloride into the hot solution, filter, 
 and concentrate the solution by evap- 
 oration. With this the first sensitizing 
 bath is prepared. 
 
 The paper to be sensitized must be 
 well sized. Float the paper, gelatine 
 side down, for about 5 minutes, care 
 being had to disperse all air bubbles, 
 and using all other precautions as in 
 sensitizing albumen paper. The paper, 
 if kept excluded from light and moist- 
 ure, seems to improve with age. Pict- 
 ures taken upon paper several weeks old 
 seemed to be more perfect. The en- 
 tirely dry paper being exposed under 
 a negative to the light, the picture can 
 be easily perceived, and the printing is 
 continued until the white places assume 
 a weak gray coloring. The exposure 
 requires on an average J of the time 
 
 necessary for albumen papers, silvered 
 or fumigated with ammonia. The papei 
 is now immersed in the following de- 
 veloping solution : Oxalic acid 25 parts, 
 sodium chloro-platinite 2 parts, dis- 
 solved in 250 parts of water; or, 25 
 parts of sodium oxalate and 1.5 parts of 
 platinum chloride dissolved in 200 parts 
 of water. The developing bath must 
 be heated to 120 to 140 F. ; the picture 
 soon reaches the requisite intensity and 
 j is then washed and dried. 
 
 This process is simple, economical, 
 and gives satisfactory results. The 
 I picture retains sometimes a yellowish 
 tone of color caused by the excess of 
 oxalate of iron present in the paper, 
 which can be easily remedied by immer- 
 sion in a tepid solution of potassium 
 oxalate and alum. The sodium salts 
 are better than the potassium salts, 
 potassium chloro-platinite being only 
 moderately soluble in water, while sodi- 
 um chloro-platinite is very much so. By 
 increasing the quantity of the platinum 
 salts very dull black tones of color can 
 be obtained, and also a paper more sen- 
 sitive to light, which might be of ad- 
 vantage in winter. 
 
 Precipitation of Gold from Old To- 
 ning Baths. To regain the gold from 
 baths prepared with sodium tungstate 
 it is recommended to add to the bath, im- 
 mediately after having been used, a few 
 drops of pure aniline oil and to agitate 
 it thoroughly. In about 12 to 24 hours 
 the gold will be precipitated together 
 with a little tungstate. When a suffi- 
 cient quantity of gold has been collected 
 dissolve it in aqua regia, reduce the 
 solution somewhat with water, neutral- 
 ize it carefully with sodium carbonate, 
 and let the fluid stand quietly for 2 or 3 
 days, when a precipitate of gold-spangled 
 tungsten-bronze will be deposited,which 
 is filtered off. 
 
 Rapid Method. Sensitive Collodion: 
 Cotton 10 parts, alcohol 400 parts, ether 
 500 parts, solution of iodide of ammo- 
 nium 45 parts, solution of iodide of cad- 
 mium 40 parts, ari'l solution of cadmi- 
 um ammonio-brornide 35 parts. The 
 latter is prepared by dissolving cadmi- 
 um bromide 6 parts and ammonium 
 bromide 4 parts in 100 parts of alcohol. 
 Sufficient tincture of iodine is added to 
 this collodion to give it an orange-red 
 color, and it is then allowed to stand for 
 
PHOTOGRAPHY. 
 
 305 
 
 2 or 3 days. The silver bath must be 
 neutral, but the collodion acid red. 
 
 Developer for Photographs of Chil- 
 dren. Water 1000 parts, sulphate of 
 iron 50 parts, acetic acid 10 parts, bo- 
 racic acid 10 parts, purified honey 1\ 
 parts, and alcohol 3U parts. 
 
 Developer for Photographs of Adults. 
 Water 1000 parts, iron 60, acetic acid 
 60, alcohol 30. 
 
 Rapid Collodion Process by Borli- 
 netto. Rectified alcohol 96 parts, ether 
 of 66 144 parts, gun cotton 2 parts, 
 ammonium iodide and cadmium iodide 
 each 1.66 parts. 
 
 Neutral Silver Bath. Nitrate of 
 silver 10 parts, distilled water 100 
 parts, and a few drops of a saturated 
 alcoholic solution of cadmium iodide. 
 
 Developing Bath. Sulphate of iron, 
 alcohol, nitric acid, and radical vine- 
 gar each 5 parts, and water 100 parts. 
 
 Fixing Bath. Sodium hyposulphite 
 1 part, water 8 parts. 
 
 Regaining of Silver from Residues of 
 Gelatine. Emulsions. Heat the residues 
 and add caustic potash to prevent 
 gelatinizing. When the solution boils 
 p-Hir it into an earthen- ware pot and 
 add concentrated solution of potassium 
 cyanide till the cream color of the 
 emulsion disappears and a turbid fluid 
 is formed. Then take 2 large zinc-car- 
 bon elements charged with potassium bi- 
 chromate and sulphuric acid, connect a 
 copper plate with the zinc-pole of the 
 battery, and a large piece of coke with 
 the carbon-pole, and hang both into the 
 solution of cyanide of silver. Pure 
 silver will at once be precipitated upon 
 the copper plate. Allow the battery to 
 act for an entire week and, when 'the 
 solution is exhausted, add fresh resi- 
 dues. When the layer of silver is thick 
 enough it is broken from the copper 
 plate. It is chemically pure silver. 
 The expense is somewhat less than 
 melting. For 65 parts of zinc dissolved 
 in the battery 108 parts of silver should 
 be obtained. 
 
 Ronoving the Negative Layer from 
 the Glass Plate is easily accomplished 
 by pouring the following mixture over 
 the dry, unlacquered negative : Gela- 
 tine 60 parts, water 600 parts, alcohol 
 120 parts, glycerine 10 parts, radical 
 vinegar 7.5 parts. The plate is then 
 placed in a horizontal position and 
 20 
 
 dried in a room free from dust. When 
 dry run a knife around the edges, draw 
 the film from the glass, pass it through 
 dull varnish, and hang it up for a few 
 minutes to dry. These negatives have 
 the advantage over the glass negatives 
 that they can be retouched from the 
 back, which makes the retouching less 
 visible in the printing and can be more 
 conveniently kept, requiring less space, 
 and besides" are indestructible and can 
 be easily handled. 
 
 Reproduction of Photo-negatives. The 
 sensitive compound used for coating 
 the plates is prepared from dextrine 4 
 parts, ordinary white sugar 5 parts, 
 bichromate of ammonium '2 parts, water 
 100 parts, glycerine 2 to 8 drop's, accord- 
 ing to the condition of the atmosphere. 
 A new well-cleansed plate is coated 
 with the sensitive chromium solution; 
 and, after the superfluous liquid has 
 been allowed to flow off at one of the 
 corners, the plate is dried in the dark 
 upon a lithographic stone or metal 
 plate for 10 minutes in a temperatuie 
 of 120 to 160 F. The film, being per- 
 fectly dry, while yet warm, is put under 
 a negative and printed in the shade for 
 10 or 15 minutes. As soon as it comes 
 out of the printing frame the plate is 
 again slightly warmed, and a brush, 
 dipped into the graphite, applied over 
 the surface of the image which should 
 be just slightly visible. The applica- 
 tion of the powder is done in a shaded 
 corner of an ordinary room illuminated 
 by daylight. Do not press hard upon 
 the film with the brush, but move it 
 over the surface as gently as possible; 
 nor will it do to hurry the operation. 
 
 In proportion as the film cools so the 
 image appears. By carefully breathing, 
 or, still better, blowing upon the film, 
 the operator will be enabled to acceler- 
 ate the process, and when the picture 
 has attained sufficient vigor the super- 
 fluous graphite may be taken off with 
 a clean brush. A normal collodion is 
 now applied composed of alcohol 500 
 parts, ether 500, and pyroxyline 15 to 
 20. When this film has set and hard- 
 ened the edges are cut round with a 
 knife, and the plate put into a porcelain 
 dish of cold water. In 3 minutes the 
 picture will be free from the glass, and 
 the film may be employed in this posi- 
 tion, or reversed with a soft brush, and 
 
306 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 taken out of the water adhering either 
 to the same glass plate or to another. 
 A gentle stream of water falling upon 
 the film will remove any chromium 
 salt still remaining on it, and will also 
 press down the loose film uniformly 
 upon the glass surface. Finally the 
 plate is allowed to diy in a perpendicu- 
 lar position. Further treatment of the 
 plate with varnish follows as a matter 
 of course. The image upon the col- 
 lodion film is very thin; but it need 
 not be feared that it will tear while in 
 the water. 
 
 Sensitive Collodion Emulsion. Im- 
 merse the plates coated with collodion 
 emulsion for 1 to 2 minutes in a solution 
 of 1 part of gelatine in 100 of water, 
 and then dry them. The plates treated 
 thus are very sensitive, and, if cor- 
 rectly exposed, give a vigorous nega- 
 tive. 
 
 Sensitive Photo-paper. Dissolve 2 
 parts of nitrate of silver in 30 parts of 
 water, and add -fe part of citric acid. 
 After this is dissolved add ammonia 
 until precipitation ceases. Then re- 
 dissolve with nitric acid, and leave the 
 solution so that a small proportion of 
 the precipitated citrate of silver remains. 
 Let that settle perfectly, and then add 
 10 drops of nitric acid to every 2500 
 parts of solution. Sheets of the ordi- 
 nary albuminized paper may be sensi- 
 tized by floating for 1 minutes. There 
 is no trouble from bubbles. The paper 
 is more sensitive in printing than the 
 ordinary paper, and tones splendidly. 
 The paper is fumed in the usual way 
 with strong ammonia. Paper made in 
 this way will be found just as white at 
 the end of 5 days as when first pre- 
 pared. 
 
 Simple and Quick Process of Prepar- 
 ing Pyrogallic Acid. Ten parts of dry 
 gallic acid are placed in a bottle or 
 wide tube together with 30 parts of 
 glycerine, and heated on a sand-bath 
 ito 375 or 390 F. until development 
 of carbonic acid ceases. The conversion 
 of gallic acid into pyrogallic acid takes 
 place in a short time. The brown, tena- 
 cious fluid is, after boiling, diluted with 
 1000 parts of water, whereby a solution 
 is obtained containing in 20 parts about 
 & part of pyrogallic acid. Care must 
 be 'had that the temperature does not 
 rise above 390 F. during the process. 
 
 Button's New Developer. Dissolve 
 8 parts of sulphate of iron in 16 parts 
 of water, and in another vessel 4 parts 
 of sugar in 3 parts of water. When all 
 are dissolved, mix the two solutions, 
 boil and filter the mixture, and allow 
 the salt to crystallize. This produces 
 a more vigorous development than ordi- 
 nary sulphate of iron. 
 
 Button's Weak Silver-bath for Al- 
 buminized Paper. Dissolve 10 parts 
 of nitrate of silver in 100 parts of water, 
 and add, with constant stirring, am- 
 monia until the solution becomes clear 
 and the turbidity at first shown has 
 disappeared. Then add nitric acid, 
 drop by drop, until blue litmus paper 
 begins to redden. 
 
 Toning Bath with Calcium Chloride 
 and Sodium Acetate by Parkinson. 
 Mix in a suitable flask calcium chlo- 
 ride 3 parts, sodium acetate 8 parts, 
 calcium carbonate 8 parts, distilled 
 water 100 parts. Mix 5 parts of this 
 solution with 1000 parts of water, and 
 add i part of chloride of gold. The 
 bath, after standing for 5 to 6 hours, is 
 ready for use, and may be kept for 
 some time. 
 
 Transfer Paper with Collodio-chlo~ 
 ride of Silver is prepared in the follow- 
 ing manner : Coat a stout piece of 
 paper with a solution of caoutchouc 
 thick enough to prevent the collodion 
 from penetrating and spotting the paper. 
 When the coating is dry pour upon it 
 collodio-chloride of silver containing 
 1.5 parts of nitrate of silver, 1 part of 
 citric acid, and some glycerine. The 
 picture prints splendidly upon the 
 caoutchouc surface ; it is toned, fixed 
 and washed, and then laid in water 
 until it can be mounted. The article 
 upon which the photo-print is to be 
 mounted is coated with a solution of 
 gelatine containing some glycerine. 
 When dry dip the gelatinized article in 
 a vessel with clean water, and place 
 the wet print, picture side down, upon it, 
 taking care to avoid air bubbles. The 
 mounted picture is then allowed to dry. 
 When it is entirely dry the caoutchouc 
 paper is brushed over with benzine, 
 and withdrawn from the picture. 
 
 Various Practical Receipts. I. Col- 
 lodion for Hot Weather. Ether 300 
 parts, alcohol 360 parts, bromide of 
 cadmium and bromide of ammonium 
 
PHOTOGRAPHY. 
 
 307 
 
 each A part, iodide of cadmium T V part, 
 and iodide of ammonium 5 part. Take 
 
 30 parts of this to every 30 parts of raw 
 collodion. 
 
 II. Collodion for Outside Work. 
 Ether and alcohol each 150 parts, 
 iodide of ammonium and cadmium and 
 bromide of cadmium each H parts, 
 collodion cotton 4 to 6 parts. This col- 
 lodion may be used for taking photo- 
 graphs of persons and landscapes. In 
 case it becomes discolored, acidulate it 
 with a trace of tincture of iodine. 
 
 III. Developer. Saturated solution 
 of sulphate of iron and radical vinegar 
 each 30 parts, water 360 parts. For 
 white drapery and photographs of 
 children use it somewhat more concen- 
 trated. 
 
 IV. Silver Bath. Water 240 parts, 
 glycerine best quality 120 parts, and 
 silver 20 parts. Let it stand in the sun 
 for a few days. If the nitrate is acid, 
 add a few drops of solution of potas- 
 sium carbonate, heat to the boiling 
 point, and filter. Later on re-acidulate 
 the bath thoroughly. Sensitized plates 
 keep very long in this bath. 
 
 V. Developer for Landscapes. Rad- 
 ical vinegar 90 parts, and 1 to 2 parts 
 of sulphate of iron to every 50 parts of 
 solution. 
 
 VI. After-developer. Rain-water 120 
 parts, citric acid 2 parts, and sulphate 
 of iron 680 parts, and a few drops of so- 
 lution of silver. 
 
 VII. Good Intensifying Bath. So- 
 lution 1. Permanganate of potassium 
 
 31 parts, water 300 parts. 
 
 Solution 2. Bichromate of potassium 
 65 parts, water 300 parts. Keep the 
 two solutions in separate bottles, and 
 for use mix equal parts. 
 
 VIII. Solution for Preparing Paper. 
 Boiled milk 567 parts, radical vinegar 
 a few drops, the white of two large 
 eggs, bromide of potassium 5i parts, 
 iodide of potassium 10J parts. Mix and 
 filter. The white of egg must, pre- 
 viously to adding the milk, be beaten 
 to a froth. Float the paper for 2 minutes. 
 
 IX. Silver Bath. Water 100 parts, 
 silver 8 parts. 
 
 X. Developer. Water 240 parts, rad- 
 ical Vinegar 30 parts, bromide of potas- 
 sium i part, and pyrogallic acid 2 heap- 
 ing tea-spoonfuls to each 8 ounces of 
 solution. 
 
 XI. Fixing Bath. Water 300 parts, 
 hyposulphite of sodium 120 parts. 
 
 XII. Negative Lacquer with Castor 
 Oil. Alcohol 500 parts, white shellac 
 360 parts, sandarac 45 parts, and 1 drop 
 of castor oil to every 20 parts of 
 lacquer. 
 
 Various Receipts for the Gelatine 
 Process. I. Edward's Glycerine De- 
 veloper, a. Pyrogallic acid 30 parts, 
 glycerine 30, alcohol 180. b. Potas- 
 sium bromide 4 parts, ammonia and 
 glycerine each 30, water 180. Take 
 10 parts each of a and b to 300 of 
 water. 
 
 II. Dr. Eder's Oxalate of Iron De- 
 veloper, a. Saturated solution of sul- 
 phate of iron, b. Saturated solution of 
 
 | neutral oxalate of potassium, c. Bro- 
 1 mide of potassium 1 part and water 10. 
 Mix 100 parts of a with 400 of b, and 
 add 15 to 30 drops of c. Should the 
 picture not appear in the course of 5 to 
 10 minutes dip it into the following 
 stronger bath : Dissolve 60 parts of 
 neutral oxalate of potassium in 100 
 of boiling water, and stir in this 15 
 parts of sulphate of iron. This bath, 
 when cold, will keep in full bottles 
 tightly closed. 
 
 III. Nelson's Developer, a. Water 
 360 parts, sulphate of iron 120, alum 
 15, sugar 30. 6. Water 720 parts and 
 neutral oxalate of potassium 240. Mix 
 1 part of a with 2 of b. 
 
 IV. Bedford's Developer, a. Pyro- 
 gallic acid 4 parts, nitric acid i, water 
 600. b. Ammonia 8 parts, bromide 
 of ammonium or potassium 5, water 
 600. For a normal exposure mix equal 
 parts of a and b. 
 
 V. Abney's Intensifying Bath. Pour 
 5 part of pyrogallic acid, 1 of radical 
 vinegar, and 90 of water upon the plate 
 previously laid in alum for one hour, 
 and add after one minute 1 part of solu- 
 tion of silver. Iron may be used in place 
 of pyrogallic acid, viz., 0.9 part of sul- 
 phate of iron, 1.8 of citric acid, and 90 
 of water. 
 
 Varnishes. Good Negative Lacquer. 
 Thirty parts of bleached shellac, 10 
 parts of mastic, 1 part of Venetian tur- 
 pentine, 350 parts of strong alcohol, and 
 a few drops of oil of lavender. 
 
 Retouching Varnish. Shellac 1 part, 
 sandarac 6 parts, mastic 6 parts, ether 
 10 parts. 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Elastic Lacquer. Dammar 40 parts, 
 acetone 180 parts. 
 
 Excellent Lacquer for Photographs. 
 Amber 2 parts, copal 4, mastic 1, petro- 
 leum naphtha 10, spirit of wine 20. 
 
 Vibrotypes. A. Kurtz, of New York, 
 makes use of a very original method to 
 impart softness to negatives and thus j 
 save retouching. He places a number) 
 of gas-flames between the person whose j 
 photograph is to be taken and the 
 camera. These put the air in vibra- 
 tion and cause a peculiar but not in- 
 jurious softness, toning down the very 
 sharp outlines. 
 
 Photographs on Wood. The follow- 
 ing formula will be found useful to 
 wood engravers, or to those who are 
 photographing on wood: Dissolve ' 
 part of gelatine in 33 parts of water, 
 mixing it witli some gilders' glue, and 
 spread it upon the surface of the block 
 with a broad camel's-hair brush. When 
 dry, brush over the prepared surface, 
 in the dark room, some of the follow- 
 ing solution : a. Red prussiate of potash 
 8 parts, water 60 parts, b. Ammonia- 
 citrate of iron 9 parts, water 60 parts. 
 When dissolved mix together and filter, j 
 This solution should be kept in the ! 
 dark. When the coating has dried ex- j 
 pose under a negative in sunshine for 
 10 or 12 minutes, then take the block 
 where the light is not very strong and 
 wash the surface lightly with a soft j 
 sponge and water, and a beautiful dark j 
 blue picture will appear, that will not 
 chip in cutting. To make a red pict- 
 ure prepare aa above, but use the fol- 
 lowing mixture : Dissolve 1.5 to 2 parts 
 of sulphate of uranium in 30 parts of j 
 thin gum-Arabic or gelatine water; 
 brush this on the block in the dark 
 room and, when dry, expose under a 
 negative for 10 to 20 minutes in sun- 
 shine. Then wash well with a sponge 
 and water. Now take a clean sponge 
 moistened with a solution of red prus- ! 
 siate of potash, li parts to 30 parts of j 
 water, and apply it quickly all over | 
 the surface, and the picture will appear j 
 immediately. When the work is com- ! 
 pleted clean with a fresh sponge and : 
 water. A drop or two of muriatic acid i 
 in some water will bleach the picture i 
 if over*printed. 
 
 Wothly's Negative Process (without j 
 Intensifying Bath). 1. Collodion. Nine- 1 
 
 ty per cent, alcohol 200 parts, iodide c* 
 ammonium 37 parts, bromide of cad- 
 mium 7 parts, iodide of cadmium li 
 parts, absolute ether 200 parts, col- 
 lodion cotton 8 parts, and water f part. 
 
 2. Developer for Negatives. Sulphate 
 of iron 2 parts, water 500 parts, alcohol 
 3 parts, and acetic acid part. 
 
 3. Varnish for Negatives. Ninety-five 
 per cent, alcohol 50 parts, white shellac 
 12 parts, and a few drops of oil of 
 lavender. 
 
 4. Polishing Glass Plates. Prepare 
 a mixture of equal parts of sulphuric 
 acid and water. Place the plates in 
 this for one day, then rinse them with 
 water, and rub them dry with a tuft of 
 cotton and old collodion, and finally 
 cleanse them completely with alcohol 
 and linen thoroughly washed and dried. 
 
 PLASTER OF PARTS CASTS WHICH 
 CAN BE WASHED. 
 
 Some time ago a prize was offered by 
 the Prussian government for a method 
 of preparing plaster casts in such a 
 manner that they might be washed 
 without injury. The prize was a warded 
 to Dr. Rcissig. In the following we 
 give a description of the process : In 
 preparing these casts it was not only 
 desirable to obtain a surface which 
 should not wash away, but also to in- 
 clude a simple process for preventing 
 dust entering the pores, and rendering 
 them more easily cleansed. Laborious 
 experiments convinced Dr. Reissig that 
 the only practical method of accom- 
 plishing this, and retaining sharpness 
 of outline, was to convert the sulphate 
 of lime into. 
 
 1. Sulphate of barium and carbonate 
 of calcium ; or, 
 
 2. Into silicate of calcium by means 
 of silicate of potassium. 
 
 Objects treated in this way are not 
 affected by hot water or hot soap solu- 
 tions, but are porous, catch dust, etc., 
 and when first put into water eagerly 
 absorb all impurities. To avoid these 
 evils the articles are rendered water- 
 proof by subsequently coating them 
 with an alcoholic soap solution which 
 penetrates easily and deeply into the 
 pores, and when washed is converted 
 into suds, which easily remove the dust 
 without allowing it to penetrate. 
 
PLASTER OF PARIS CASTS. 
 
 309 
 
 Process ivith Baryta Water. This is 
 the easiest, simplest, and cheapest 
 method. It depends upon the fact that 
 gypsum or calcium sulphate is con- 
 verted by baryta water into barium sul- 
 phate (which is totally insoluble) and 
 caustic lime, which is converted by 
 contact with the air into calcium car- 
 bonate. The practical method of carry- 
 ing this out is as follows : A large zinc 
 vessel is required with a tight-fitting 
 cover. In the vessel is a grating made 
 of strips of zinc resting on feet 1 to 2 
 inches high. This vessel is two-thirds 
 filled with soft water of 50 to 75 F., 
 and to every 25 gallons of water are 
 added 9 pounds of fused or 14 pounds 
 of crystallized pure hydrated oxide of 
 barium, and 9 ounces of lime previ- 
 ously slaked in water. As soon as the 
 baryta water gets clear it is ready to 
 receive the casts. They are wrapped 
 in suitable places with cords, and, after 
 removing the scum from the baryta 
 bath, are dipped in as rapidly as pos- 
 sible, face first, and then allowed to 
 rest upon the grating. 
 
 Hollow casts are first saturated by 
 rapid motions in the bath, then filled 
 with the solution and suspended in the 
 bath with the open part upwards. 
 After the cords are all secured above 
 the surface of the liquid the zinc vessel 
 is covered. The casts are left in the 
 bath for 1 to 10 or more days according 
 to the thickness of the water-proof 
 stratum required. After taking off the 
 cover and removing the scum the casts 
 are drawn up by the strings, rinsed off 
 with lime water, allowed to drain off, 
 carefully wiped off with cotton or 
 linen rags, and left to dry, without 
 being touched by the hands," in a warm 
 place, free from dust. The same solu- 
 tion which has been used once can be 
 used again by adding a little more 
 baryta and lime. 
 
 Of course this process can only be 
 applied to casts free from dust, snioke, 
 dirt, etc. To prevent the casts from 
 getting dust upon them they should be 
 wrapped in paper when taken from 
 the mould and dried by artificial heat 
 below 212 F., care being had not to | 
 handle them with sweaty hands. If in 
 spite of every precaution the casts when 
 finished show yellow spots they can be 
 removed in this manner: The casts 
 
 when perfectly dry are painted over 
 with water and oil of turpentine, then 
 put in a glass case and exposed to the 
 direct rays of the sun. All spots of an 
 organic nature will then disappear, but 
 rust, smoke, and mineral spots cannot 
 be removed in this way. In the place 
 of cold baryta water the casts may be 
 placed for half an hour in a concen- 
 trated solution of baryta heated to 100 
 to 120 F. This has the advantage 
 that the casts may be put in before 
 drying. As the casts treated in this 
 way are not hardened very deeply and 
 are still porous, it is well to place them 
 subsequently in a cold bath for a longer 
 time. 
 
 The casts are now ready, as soon as 
 perfectly dry, for the soap solution. A 
 pure, good, hard soap is cut in shavings, 
 which are dried and then dissolved in 
 50 or 60 per cent, of alcohol, 10 or 12 
 parts of alcohol to 1 of soap. A solu- 
 tion of Marseilles soap known as 
 " spirit us saponatus" can be bought at 
 any drug store. The finest appearance 
 as well as a high degree of durability 
 is obtained by using a solution of stear- 
 ate of soda in strong alcohol. Both 
 the solution and cast should be warm, 
 so that it may penetrate as perfectly 
 and deeply as possible. It does no harm 
 to repeat the operation several times as 
 long as the liquid is absorbed by the 
 cast. When dry the cast is finished. 
 
 Process with Silicate of Potassium. 
 This process depends upon the conver- 
 sion of the calcium sulphate into calcium 
 silicate an extremely hard, durable,in- 
 soluble compound and is accomplished 
 by the use of a dilute solution of silicate 
 of potassium containing free potash. To 
 prepare this solution make a 10 per 
 cent, solution of caustic potash in water, 
 heat to boiling in a suitable vessel, and 
 then add pure silicic acid, free from 
 iron, as long as it continues to dissolve. 
 On standing the cold solution usually 
 throws down some highly silica ted pot- 
 ash and alumina. It is left in well- 
 stoppered glass vessels to settle. Just 
 before using it, it is well to throw in a 
 few small pieces of potash or to add 1 
 or 2 per cent, of the potash solution. 
 If the plaster articles are very bulky 
 this solution can be diluted to one-half 
 with pure water. The casts are silicated 
 by dipping them in a cold state for a 
 
310 
 
 TECIINO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 few minutes into the solution, or ap- 
 plying the solution by means of a well- 
 cleaned sponge, or throwing it upon 
 them as a fine spray. When the chem- 
 ical reaction, which takes place almost 
 instantly, is finished, the excess of the 
 solution is best removed with some 
 warm soap-water or a warm solution 
 of stearine soap, and this finally re- 
 moved with still warmer pure water. 
 The casts, which can be immersed or 
 easily moved about, may be treated as 
 above when warm; a very short time is 
 required, but some experience is neces- 
 sary. In every case it is easy to tell 
 when the change is effected, from the 
 smooth, dense appearance, and by its 
 feeling when scratched with the finger- 
 nail. It is not advisable to leave the 
 casts top long in the potash solution as 
 it may injure them. A little practice 
 renders it easy to hit the right point. 
 The fresher and purer the gypsum and 
 the more porous the cast the more 
 necessary it is to work as quick as pos- 
 sible. Castings made with old and poor 
 plaster of Paris are useless for silicating. 
 These silicated casts are treated with 
 soap as before. In washing plaster- 
 casts prepared by either process it is 
 recommended to use a clean soft sponge, 
 carefully freed from all adherent sand 
 and limestone, moistened with luke- 
 warm water and well soaped. They 
 are afterwards washed with clean 
 water. The addition of some oil of tur- 
 pentine to the soap is useful, as it 
 bleaches the casts on standing. The 
 use of hot soap-suds must be avoided. 
 
 JZrethauer's Method of Preparing 
 Plaster of Paris Casts Resisting the 
 Action of the Weather. Slake 1 part 
 of finely pulverized lime to a paste, 
 then mix gypsum with lime water, and 
 intimately mix both. From the com- 
 pound thus prepared the figures are 
 cast. When perfectly dry they are 
 painted with hot linseed oil, repeating 
 the operation several times, then with 
 linseed-oil varnish, and finally with 
 white oil pai nt. Statues, etc. , prepared 
 in this way have been constantly ex- 
 posed to the action of the weather for 4 
 years, without suffering any change. 
 
 Jacobsen prepares casts which retain 
 no dust, and can be washed with luke- 
 warm soap-water by immersing them 
 or throwing upon tnem in a fine spray 
 
 a hot solution of a soap prepared from 
 stearic acid and soda lye in tenj;imes 
 its quantity by weight of hot water. 
 
 Shellhass recommends the coating of 
 plaster of Paris casts with a compound 
 of finely powdered mica and collodion 
 prepared as follows : The mica, rendered 
 perfectly white by boiling with hydro- 
 chloric acid or calcining, is ground 
 very fine, sifted and elutriated, and 
 then mixed with dilute collodion to 
 the consistency of oil paint, and applied 
 with a soft brush. Casts coated in this 
 way possess a silvery lustre, have the 
 advantage of being indifferent to sul- 
 phurous ex halations, andean be washed 
 without injury. 
 
 PRESERVING MEAT, MILK, VEGE- 
 TABLES, VEGETABLE SUBSTANCES, 
 WOOD, ETC., AND PRESERVATIVES. 
 
 Boro-glycerine for Preserving Or- 
 ganic Substances is prepared by heat- 
 ing 92 parts of glycerine with 62 of 
 boracic acid to 392 F. 
 
 Boro-tartrate for Preserving Meat 
 and other Food. Distilled water is 
 aromatized with nutmeg in the propor- 
 tion of 1 or 2 parts to 1000, and in this 
 is dissolved 12 to 15 parts of boro-tar- 
 trate obtained by melting together 2 
 parts of tartaric acid with 15 of boracic 
 acid. This antiseptic fluid is injected 
 into the arteries of the animal to be pre- 
 served, which is then cut up, and the 
 pieces, after the bones have been re- 
 moved, are immersed in the fluid for 
 several hours and then dried in the air. 
 Small pieces require to be immersed 
 only for a short time, or their surface 
 simply sponged with the fluid. 
 
 English Pickle for Meat. Dissolve 
 300 parts of common salt, 5 parts of 
 saltpetre, and 50 parts of sugar in 2000 
 parts of water. Boil the whole and 
 remove the scum. 
 
 Fluids for Preserving Corpses, Ana- 
 tomical Specimens, Plants, etc. The 
 Cultus Department of the German Em- 
 pire has bought the following patented 
 process from the inventor, Jean Wickers- 
 heimer, and published it for the benefit 
 of the public : Dissolve 3 ounces of 
 alum, | ounce of common salt, 
 ounce of saltpetre, 2 ounces of pot- 
 ash, and J ounce of arsenious acid 
 
PRESERVATIVES FOR MEAT, ETC. 
 
 311 
 
 in 2i quarts of boiling water ; allow the 
 solution to cool, and then filter. Now 
 add to every 2 gallons of the neutral 
 fluid 3i quarts of glycerine and If pints 
 of methyl alcohol. About li quarts are 
 required for injecting the body of a 
 child, and 1 gallon for that of an adult. 
 Anatomical specimens are simply im- 
 mersed in the fluid for 6 to 12 days. 
 The muscles, etc., when dry, remain 
 soft and flexible. 
 
 Struve recommends the following 
 fluid in which the alum is omitted, which 
 he claims to be entirely superfluous, 
 and as exerting a disturbing influence [ 
 in consequence of its being precipi- ' 
 tated : Water 55.45 per cent., glycerine 
 37.7 per cent., methyl alcohol 4.43 per 
 cent., potassium sulphate 1.34 per cent., 
 common salt 0.46 per cent., saltpetre 
 0.23 per cent., and arsenious acid 0.39 
 per cent. 
 
 Oscar Jacobsen, for the same reason 
 as Struve, changes the receipt as fol- 
 lows: Arsenious acid f ounce, potas- 
 sium carbonate i ounce, saltpetre i 
 ounce, common salt & ounce, potassium 
 sulphate \ ounce, and water 2i quarts. 
 
 Two fluids prepared according to 
 Wickers/tenner's patent have been 
 brought into commerce, one intended 
 for " injecting" the other for " immers- 
 ing" the first containing larger quan- 
 tities of the different salts than the 
 latter. They contain no alum, and are 
 prepared according to the following 
 receipts : 
 
 Injecting Immersing 
 
 Arsenious acid . . 
 Sodium chloride . 
 Potassium sulphate 
 
 " nitrate . 
 
 " carbonate 0.705 ' 
 
 Water 2 gals. 
 
 Glycerine 3 qts. 
 
 Methyl alcohol . . . 1 pt. 
 
 fluid. 
 0.56 
 2.82 
 7.05 
 
 fluid. 
 0.42 oz. 
 2.11 " 
 5. '29 " 
 0.63 " 
 0.52 " 
 
 2 gals. 
 
 3 qts. 
 Ipt. 
 
 Improved Process for Preserving 
 Meat, Fish, Fruits, Liquids, etc. For 
 closing bottles hermetically the follow- 
 ing mixture is used : Melt 3* parts of glue 
 with 1 of glycerine or oil. For bottles 
 containing volatile fluids the mixture 
 consists of 3 parts of gelatine, i of glyc- 
 erine or oil, .and i of water. 
 
 To preserve meat, fish, fruits, etc., 
 the articles are surrounded with a com- 
 pound prepared by melting 2J parts 
 
 of gelatine in * part of glycerine. To 
 protect the gelatine from spoiling 4 
 parts of tannin are added to every 
 10,000 parts of the compound. The 
 bottle or jar is hermetically closed by 
 placing a piece of paper upon the con- 
 tents, and filling the space between this 
 and the cork with the above com- 
 pound. 
 
 New Process of Giving Preserved 
 Vegetables a Natural Color. Copper 
 and zinc salts, both injurious to health, 
 are frequently employed to give canned 
 vegetables a natural green color. This 
 may, according to a new invention, be 
 accomplished by adding chlorophyl, 
 the natural coloring matter of vegeta- 
 bles. Immerse green leaves in dilute 
 caustic soda lye, and compound the 
 fluid with alum. Wash the precipitate 
 and dissolve it with potassium phos- 
 phate and alkaline eart is. By adding 
 the solution to the boiJ.ng vegetables 
 sufficient chlorophyl is absorbed by 
 them to retain their natural green color. 
 The great advantage of this method is 
 that no foreign substance is added, but 
 only one natural to the plant and in- 
 noxious. 
 
 New Process of Preparing Preserva- 
 tive Salt. Melt together 4 equivalents 
 of crystallized boracic acid and 1 equiva- 
 lent of sodium phosphate, and add salt- 
 petre and common salt. 
 
 To preserve fresh meat of any kind 
 remove first all bones, and then scatter 
 the preservative salt over the surface 
 and into all hollows. 
 
 The meat may also be placed for i 
 hour in a solution of the preservative 
 salt in the proportion of 1 to 6, or about 
 10 tablespoonfuls of the salt dissolved 
 in 1 quart of water, and then wrapped 
 up in a linen cloth moistened with the 
 solution and hung up in the air ; or it 
 may be placed in a pot or barrel, the 
 solution poured over it and allowed to 
 remain until it is to be used. For 1 
 pound of meat 1 teaspoonful of the 
 salt is required. 
 
 New Method of Preserving Sugar 
 Beets, Potatoes, and other Tubers, the 
 beets, potatoes, etc., are piled up and 
 covered, not as formerly with straw or 
 earth, but with a sufficient layer of the 
 following mixture : Coal cinders con- 
 verted into coarse powder 80 per cent, 
 and lime slaked to a fine powder with 
 
312 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 as little water as possible 20 per cent., 
 and intimately mixed. 
 
 Preserving Lemon Juice. I. Keep 
 the filtered juice, before it has passed 
 into fermentation without adding alco- 
 hol, in a bottle hermetically sealed. 
 II. Heat the fresh juice not com- 
 pounded with alcohol in a closed ves- 
 sel to the boiling point. III. Com- 
 pound the unfermented juice with 10 
 per cent, of alcohol, and heat as 
 m No. II. IV. Fill the fermented 
 juice in bottles without an addition of 
 alcohol and without heating. V. Heat 
 the fermented juice without an addition 
 of alcohol in a closed vessel to the boil- 
 ing point. VI. Compound the fer- 
 mented juice with 10 per cent, of alco- 
 hol and heat as in No. V. All these 
 methods furnish a juice which, when j 
 mixed with sugar syrup in the proper- 1 
 tion of 5 dract ms of juice to 5 ounces I 
 of sugar-syrup and the necessary quan- i 
 tity of water, give lemonades of a fine 
 flavor. 
 
 Process of Preparing Preserved Cat- 
 tle-feed from Agricultural Products 
 and Waste. Bran, malt-germs, brewers' 
 grains, residues from the manufacture 
 of oil, and of beet sugar, and of potato 
 and corn starch are mixed with each 
 other in water, so that in the mixture 
 the proportion of proteine substances to 
 the carbo-hydrates is as 1 to 3 or 4 in 52 
 to 53 per cent, of dry substance. To 1 
 pound of dry substance is added i 
 drachm of salt and some calcium phos- 
 phate ; the mass is then crushed and 
 E laced in a reservoir, where it is al- 
 >wed to heat spontaneously until a 
 homogeneous compound is formed, 
 which is pressed into cakes and dried. 
 
 Rapid Process of Corning Meat on a 
 small Scale. Mix 16 parts of common 
 salt, i of saltpetre, and 1 of sugar. Roll 
 the meat in the mixture so that it is 
 uniformly covered. Then wrap it in a 
 linen cloth and put it in a covered pot. 
 Turn the meat several times every day. 
 In 8 days it will be thoroughly pickled. 
 To Dry Fruit by means of a Cold Air- 
 blast. Pared apples, etc., are submitted 
 in a sieve-like holder to the action of a 
 cold air-blast for 3 hours. Excellent 
 dried fruit, much superior to that dried 
 jn the sun or by means of hot air, is 
 prepared by this process. 
 
 To Pack Apples and other Fruit to 
 
 be transported to distant places. Wrap 
 each fruit separately in salicy lized paper 
 and pack carefully, so that in rolling 
 r moving the barrel the fruit are not 
 n against each other. The salicy- 
 ized paper is prepared by dissolving 
 salicylic acid in strong alcohol, and 
 compounding the solution with as much 
 water as it will bear without reprecipi- 
 tating the salicylic acid. The paper 
 is then saturated with the solution and 
 dried. The object of the salicylic acid 
 is to prevent the rotting of fruit injured 
 by careless handling in packing. 
 
 To Preserve the Blood from Meat- 
 cattle. The fresh blood to be preserved 
 is mixed with pulverized unslaked 
 lime. The lime being slaked in the 
 blood is precipitated in a short time, 
 while the blood is converted into a 
 homogeneous jelly-like compound, 
 which can be easily separated from 
 the lime-precipitate, dried, and then 
 used as a nutritious food. 
 
 To Preserve Burnt Jnme. A layer 
 of lime slaked to a powder is spread 
 to the^ depth of 6 to 8 inches upon the 
 floor of a shed protected from all moist- 
 ure. Upon this layer are piled the 
 pieces of lime to be preserved and 
 pressed as closely together as possible. 
 The uppermost layer should have a 
 slight slant. On the top is also placed 
 a layer of lime slightly moistened, 
 which is thereby converted into pow- 
 der and falls into the interstices of the 
 heap, protecting it from the access of 
 air and moisture. Experiments on a 
 large scale have proved that this proc- 
 ess is practicable, and makes the keep- 
 ing of burned lime during the winter 
 possible without losing any of its good 
 qualities. 
 
 To Preserve Butter for Transatlantic 
 Transport pack it in tin cans capable 
 of holding from 2 to 30 pounds. The 
 cans should be lined with wood satu- 
 rated with brine, and, when filled, the 
 lid must be soldered down. 
 
 To Preserve Butter. Several Methods. 
 I. Cover the butter with a layer of 
 metallic (iron) sponge and water, so 
 that the air can only reach the butter 
 by passing through it. 
 
 II. Dissolve 1 part of sodium meta- 
 phosphate in water and mix it inti' 
 mately with 240 parts of butter. 
 
 To Preserve Eggs. I. In China, accord- 
 
PRESERVATIVES FOR MEAT, ETC. 
 
 313 
 
 ing to Itier, the eggs are placed in a 
 saturated solution of common salt, and 
 allowed to remain in it until they sink 
 down. They are then taken out, dried, 
 and packed in boxes. The eggs, \^en 
 boiled, are salted to the taste. 
 
 II. Sack recommends the coating of 
 the eggs with paraffine, 1 pound being 
 sufficient for 1500 eggs. Fresh and 
 sound eggs are of course required for 
 the process, as decomposition once com- 
 menced would progress notwithstand- 
 ing the coating of paraffine. 
 
 III. Marsh dissolves in each gallon of 
 water 12 ounces of quicklime, G ounces 
 of common salt, 1 drachm of soda, i 
 drachm of saltpetre, i drachm of tar- 
 tar, and 1^ drachms of borax. The 
 fluid is brought into a barrel and suffi- 
 cient quicklime to cover the bottom is 
 then poured in. Upon this is placed 
 a layer of eggs, quicklime is again 
 thrown in and so on until the bai'rel is 
 filled, so that the liquor stands about 
 10 inches deep over the last layer of 
 egg-;. The barrel is then covered with 
 a cloth upon which is also scattered 
 some lime. 
 
 IV. Eggs immersed in a solution of 
 1| drachms of iodate of calcium in 1 
 gallon of water were not to be dis- 
 tinguished after a month by smell or 
 taste from perfectly fresh eggs ; how 
 much longer than a month they may 
 be thus preserved experience only can 
 determine. 
 
 To Preserve Fish. Freshly caught 
 herring immersed in a solution of 1 
 drachms of iodate of calcium in 1 gal- 
 lon of water remain perfectly good in 
 hot weather for about 4 days, when they 
 begin to change slowly. If dry iodate 
 of calcium is sprinkled over the fish, 
 U to 3 grains to a dozen fish, instead of 
 immersing them in the solution, the 
 result is the same, and in neither case 
 is it possible to detect the slightest 
 foreign flavor in the taste of the fish. 
 If salt herrings are first soaked in water 
 long enough to remove as much of the 
 salt as is considered desirable, and then 
 immersed in a solution of iodate of cal- 
 cium for 24 hours, they lose their dis- 
 agreeable rancid flavor, and are com- 
 pletely restored to the flavor they had 
 when freshly caught. 
 
 To Preserve Fluids containing Nu- 
 tritive Substances. The residues from 
 
 the manufacture of alcohol and of com- 
 pressed yeast are filtered, passed 
 through the centrifugal, or pressed. 
 For filtering, a system of pits is used in 
 connection with a collecting- well. The 
 residue flows from the distilling ap- 
 paratus into the filtering pits a (Fig. 
 396), The substance is retained here 
 while the water charged with the sol- 
 
 1H- 
 
 Fig. 396.3 
 
 uble nutritive substances contained in 
 the residues enters through the filter- 
 ing layer c and the pipe d into the col- 
 lecting-well 6, where, by means of the 
 stirring apparatus e, it is mixed with a 
 suitable alkali, and neutralized to a 
 weak alkaline reaction. This water 
 containing in solution more than i of 
 the nutritive substances contained in 
 the residues is used as ordinary feed 
 water of the boiler of the distillery, to 
 which it is conveyed by the suction- 
 pipe / of a pump. When it has ob- 
 tained the desired percentage of nutri- 
 tive substances it is used for scalding 
 feed, and the animals are fed with this 
 either with or without an admixture 
 of the dry substance of the residues. 
 
 When the pit a is full it is covered 
 with several layers of hard burnt 
 bricks, which, after a few days, are 
 covered with clay or potter's clay, to 
 protect the dry substance as much as 
 i possible from oxidation by excluding 
 the air. 
 
 The water from starch factories is also 
 
 concentrated and the concentrated fluid 
 
 j is used for scalding and changing the 
 
 1 pulp into paste, whereby it becomes 
 
 suitable to be used as an addition to 
 
 mashes or, directly, as cattle-feed. 
 
 The waste-water containing nutri- 
 tive substances of breweries, sugar 
 houses, etc., may be concentrated and 
 utilized in a similar manner. 
 
 To Preserve Hops. Press the hops, 
 
314 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 as soon as dry, into wooden boxes 
 made air-tight with rosin or pitch, 
 close the box hermetically, and do 
 not open it until the hops are to be 
 
 To Preserve Meat. I. Wrap the 
 flesh in a cover of gelatine or parch- 
 ment paper made insoluble by treat- 
 ment with potassium bichromate. 
 
 II. To preserve meat to be used as 
 food, Wickersheimer has patented the 
 following process: A solution of 36 
 parts of potash, 15 parts of common salt, 
 and 60 parts of alum in 3000 parts of 
 water, is heated to 120 F., then mixed 
 with another solution of 9 parts of sal- 
 icylic acid in 45 parts of methyl alco- 
 hol, to which have been added 250 parts 
 of glycerine. The animal to be pre- 
 served is injected with this fluid before 
 it is opened. For smaller animals 100 
 parts of the fluid are used for every 1000 
 parts of dead weight, while larger ani- 
 mals require less. In small animals, 
 as fish, fowl, etc., the fluid is injected 
 before they are killed directly into the 
 heart with a syringe provided with a 
 sharp point, while in large animals it 
 is injected after they are killed into 
 one of the cervical arteries. For cattle 
 and pigs 2 to 3 parts of saltpetre must 
 be added to the fluid. The meat of 
 animals thus treated keeps perfectly 
 fresh for 2 to 3 weeks. If it is to be 
 preserved for a longer time more 
 methyl-alcohol must be used, and 12 
 parts of salicylic acid instead of 9 parts, 
 and 450 parts of glycerine instead of 
 250 parts. To preserve animal sub- 
 stances not to be used for food the fol- 
 lowing solution is used: Eighty parts 
 of potash, 60 parts of common salt, 30 
 parts of saltpetre, and 160 parts of 
 alum in 6000 parts of water. The so- 
 lution is heated to 120 F., and com- 
 pounded with a solution of 18 parts of 
 salicylic acid in 600 parts of methyl- 
 alcohol, and finally 60 parts of carbolic 
 acid and 1800 parts of glycerine are 
 added. 
 
 III. Inject the meat with a saturated 
 solution of boracic acid in cold water, 
 and sprinkle pulverized boracic acid 
 over it. The effect of the solution 
 is increased by an addition of some 
 common salt and saltpetre, which helps 
 especially to preserve the natural ap- 
 pearance of the meat. The meat treated 
 
 thus shows no sign of decomposition, 
 and no change can be detected even by 
 a microscopical examination. 
 
 IV. Excellent results have been ob. 
 tained by using powdered acetate of so- 
 dium. The meat is placed in a barrel 
 and the acetate put in, when it is left for 
 48 hours. Thus prepared, it is said, 
 the meat will keep for any length of 
 time, and will be ready for cooking by 
 soaking for 12 hours in water, to every 
 1000 parts of which 7 parts of sal-am- 
 moniac are added. 
 
 V. Meat and other organic sub- 
 stances can be preserved by adding to 
 them a minute quantity of fuchsine. 
 Pieces of beef enveloped in blotting- 
 paper soaked with gelatine and fuchsine 
 were found to keep unaltered. By 
 being soaked in water for 24 hours the 
 beef became perfectly fresh, and fur- 
 nished a soup in which no disagreeable 
 flavor could be detected. 
 
 To Preserve Meat and Vegetables for 
 some time put a small quantity of 
 cleansed iron filings in a pot, pour 
 clean boiled water over them, then put 
 in the meat or green vegetables, so that 
 the water stands over them, and, to 
 prevent the access of air, pour a layer 
 of oil upon the water. According to 
 many experiments made meat treated 
 thus preserved its good taste for seven 
 weeks and had the appearance of being 
 recently killed. Vegetables can be 
 treated in the same manner without in- 
 jury- 
 
 To Preserve Milk. I. Add to milk 
 evaporated to J its volume at a tempera- 
 ture of 100 to 120 F., in a vacuum, a 
 solution of benzoate of magnesium and 
 preserve the mixture in hermetically- 
 closed vessels. 
 
 II. The addition of a small quantity 
 of boracic acid to milk retards the sep"- 
 aration of cream, and the milk retains 
 its sweetness for several days. 
 
 To Preserve Vegetables and Fruits. 
 Dissolve 1 part of common salt in 100 
 of water, boil the solution and heat the 
 steam evolved by it to a temperature of 
 200 to 400 F., according to the vege- 
 table substance to be treated, and ex- 
 pose the latter to the superheated steam 
 5 to 18 minutes. Such vegetable mat- 
 ters as albumen, caseine, chlorophyl, 
 bassorin (vegetable mucus) are dis- 
 solved and float on the surface, from 
 
PRESERVATIVES FOR MEAT, ETC. 
 
 315 
 
 which they are afterwards removed by | 
 means of clear, running water The 
 vegetables and fruits as soon as dry are 
 pressed and packed. For many plants 
 it is better to place them in brine com- 
 posed of 1 part of common salt and 35 
 of water, which, by the introduction of 
 steam, is kept at a temperature of 400 
 F. For washing a vat is used, through 
 which runs constantly a stream of pure 
 water of a temperature of 40 to 50 F. 
 Vegetables and fruits prepared in this 
 way retain their color and taste for a 
 very long time. 
 
 To Prevent, the Formation of Mould 
 on Fruit Jellies. Scatter upon the sur- 
 face of the jelly a layer of pulverized 
 sugar about i inch thick, and tie up 
 the jar with bladder or waxed paper. 
 
 Two New Kinds of Preservative 
 Papers have recently been introduced 
 in commerce. One is obtained by im- 
 mersing soft paper in a bath of strong 
 solution of salicylic acid in alcohol with 
 as much water as it will bear without 
 re-precipitating the acid, and then dry- 
 ing it in the air. This paper is used 
 for wrapping up fruits, etc. 
 
 For the other paper, which is used as 
 a protection against moths and mildew, 
 it is best to use strong vanilla wrap- 
 ping-paper, which is immersed in a 
 bath and then dried by passing over 
 hot rollers. This bath consists of 90 
 parts of tar-oil, 5 of crude carbolic 
 acid containing phenole about one-half 
 its volume, 20 of coal tar at a temper- 
 ature of 158 F., and 5 of refined petro- 
 leum. 
 
 To Smoke Beef. Put the meat freshly 
 killed and while still warm into a mixt- 
 ure of 1 part of pulverized saltpetre 
 and 32 of common salt, work it thor- 
 oughly, and scatter upon it as much 
 rye bran as will adhere to it, and then 
 hang it, either with or without an en- 
 velope of paper, in the smoke-house. 
 The empyreumatic constituents of the 
 smoke are prevented by the bran from 
 reaching the meat and drying it out 
 too much. The meat thus treated has 
 an excellent taste and appearance. 
 
 To Preserve Vine Props and Wine- 
 Barrels by Impregnating the Wood. 
 The purpose of impregnating vine 
 props is a double one, namely, to pre- 
 serve the props themselves, and by the 
 different chemicals used in impregna- 
 
 tion to keep away insects injurious to 
 the vine 
 
 For Vine Props. Impregnation with 
 Linseed Oil. The props are coated with 
 linseed oil, to which enough pulverized 
 wood-charcoal has been added to give 
 it the consistency of oil-paint. This 
 process protects the wood from rotting 
 for a number of years. 
 
 Process with Preparations of Lime. 
 The wood is first saturated with soap- 
 water and then treated with a solution 
 of a calcium salt or immersed in an 
 acid. The combinations of calcium 
 sebates separated in the wood itself, it 
 is said, protect it against moisture and 
 the attacks of insects. Diluted milk 
 of lime is aJso claimed as an impreg- 
 nating agent. Even lime slaked in a 
 solution of calcium chloride is used as 
 a wash for protecting vine props ; or 
 the wood to be impregnated is covered 
 with burnt lime, which is gradually 
 slaked with water. The wood remains 
 in this 8 days. 
 
 Common Salt is the simplest impreg- 
 nating agent. The wood, well sea- 
 soned, is either immersed in a strong 
 solution of salt or painted with it. The 
 part of the prop set in the ground is 
 surrounded with a layer of salt which 
 is gradually dissolved by earth moist- 
 ure and absorbed by the wood. Wood 
 thus treated, it is claimed, is not at- 
 tacked by insects. 
 
 Solution of Sulphate of Copper. The 
 posts to be impregnated are first 
 pointed and then immersed in a solu- 
 tion of 3i Ibs. of sulphate of copper in 
 40 gallons of water. This process is 
 especially adapted for soft and cheap 
 varieties of wood, as acacia, pine, and, 
 on account of their porosity, for larch, 
 beach, cherry, poplar, alder, etc. 
 
 Coal Tar. A new process is as fol- 
 lows : Wood cut in winter and as well 
 seasoned as possible is immersed for a 
 quarter of an hour in the following 
 mixture : To every 50 parts of coal tar 
 boiling hot add 3 parts of common 
 salt, 5 parts of sulphate of iron, 3 parts 
 of alum, and 13 parts of rosin; mix 
 thoroughly and boil the compound 
 down to the proper consistency. As 
 soon as the wood is taken from this 
 compound a powder consisting of the 
 following ingredients is spread over it : 
 Coal cinders, very hard and thoroughly 
 
316 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 burned, 50 parts, sulphate of iron pul- 
 verized 5 parts, lime pulverized 15 
 parts, and glass pulverized any desired 
 quantity. The wood thus prepared is 
 stored in a dry place. 
 
 Rosin. Heat 25 parts of rosin in an 
 iron boiler together with 2 parts of lin- 
 seed oil, and add with constant stir- 
 ring 150 parts of white sand, and finally 
 1 part of sulphuric acid and a like 
 quantity of oxide of copper ground fine. 
 The whole is then intimately mixed 
 and applied while still hot to the 
 wood. 
 
 New Preservative for Wood, to pre- 
 vent it from rotting, is prepared as fol- 
 lows: Boil in an iron boiler 4 to 8 
 parts of linseed oil with 50 of rosin, 40 
 of whiting, and 200 to 300 of sharp, 
 white sand, and, when the paste is 
 thoroughly boiled, add 1 part of red 
 oxide of copper and 1 part of sulphuric 
 acid ; stir the mixture thoroughly and 
 apply it while hot to the wood with a 
 stiff brush. The coating dries imme- 
 diately and forms an indestructible 
 crust as hard as stone. 
 
 To Restore the Original Natural 
 Color of Old Parquet Floors. Boil 1 
 part of calcined soda for hour with 
 1 part of slaked lime and 15 of water ; 
 mop the floor with the caustic soda lye 
 thus obtained. When nearly dry scrub 
 the floor with a hard brush and fine 
 sand and water in order to remove the 
 old wax and all other impurities. 
 Next mix 1 part of concentrated sul- 
 phuric acid and 8 of water and apply 
 the mixture to the floor. The sulphuric 
 acid revivifies the color of the wood by 
 forming a combination with the brown 
 substance and the earthy parts which 
 may have penetrated into the wood. 
 When the floor is dry scrub it once 
 with water, and when dry wax it in the 
 usual manner. 
 
 SEALING-WAX AND WAFERS. 
 
 Good sealing-wax should be smooth, 
 glossy, and not brittle; when held in a 
 flame it should melt without dropping 
 or charring, and retain, after cooling, a 
 certain degree of elasticity. Its color 
 must not change by melting, the wax 
 must not adhere to the seal, and the 
 impression should be sharp and clear. 
 
 It is perfumed with benzoin, Peru- 
 vian balsam, mastic, musk, etc. An 
 addition of 2 percent, of benzoin and 1 
 per cent, of Peruvian balsam imparts 
 a very agreeable odor to sealing-wax. 
 The perfume can be much varied by an 
 admixture of small quantities of essen- 
 tial oils, oil of peppermint and essential 
 oil of almonds being especially effica- 
 cious. 
 
 The poorest qualities of sealing-wax 
 are known as " parcel wax " and " bot- 
 tle wax." The first is prepared from 
 gallipot, turpentine, shellac, pulverized 
 eavy spar, and pigments, and the lat- 
 ter of the same materials with the ex- 
 ception of shellac. 
 
 We give in the following a number 
 of receipts for all kinds which have 
 been tested and can be recommended. 
 
 Black (Fine No. I.) I. Venetian tur- 
 pentine 183 parts, shellac 300, rosin 
 16.5, and the necessary quantity of 
 lampblack mixed with oil of turpen- 
 tine. 
 
 II. Shellac 1295 parts, bone-black 
 1085, chalk 245, rosin 630, turpentine 
 665. 
 
 Black No. II. Fifty parts of shellac, 
 a like quantity of Venetian turpentine 
 or rosin, and 25 parts of bone-black. 
 
 Black ( Ordinary ). Shel 1 ac 1 8 parts, 
 Venetian turpentine or white rosin 10, 
 whiting 8, and calcined lampblack 2. 
 
 Blue (Dark). I. Venetian turpen- 
 tine 100 parts, rosm 33, shellac 233, 
 mineral blue 33. 
 
 II. Shellac 1 part, Burgundy pitch 
 i, dammar 1, Venetian turpentine i. 
 
 III. ( Very Light). Bleached shellac 
 157i parts, turpentine 525, mastic 385, 
 calcined mica 350, ultramarine 262. 
 
 IV. ( Very Dark). Bleached shellac 
 122.5 parts, turpentine 210, Spanish 
 chalk 105, mastic 752.5, calcined mica 
 70, cobalt blue 420. 
 
 Brown. I. Shellac 1068 parts, rosin 
 560, cinnabar 175, turpentine 910, 
 gypsum 525, lampblack 122.5. 
 
 II. Shellac 1085 parts, rosin 660. 
 red bole 140, turpentine 840, gypsum 
 490, minium 140. 
 
 Brown (Dark). Venetian turpen- 
 tine 133 parts, shellac 250, brown rotten- 
 stone 50, and magnesia mixed with oil 
 of turpentine 5. 
 
 Brown (Light). I. Venetian tur- 
 pentine 133 parts, brown mineral color 
 
SEALING-WAX AND WAFERS. 
 
 317 
 
 33, whiting 16.5, shellac 250, cinnabar 
 16.5, magnesia 3. 
 
 II. Venetian turpentine 133 parts, 
 shellac 233, rosin 100, rottenstone 
 50, cinnabar 8, whiting 33, and magne- 
 sia 3. 
 
 Crimson. Venetian turpentine 66.5 
 parts, shellac 133, colophony 33, car- 
 mine 50, magnesia mixed with oil of 
 turpentine 3. 
 
 Gold. I. Shellac 1260 parts, turpen- 
 tine 1295, rosin 700, mastic 35, Dutch 
 gold cut up fine 70. 
 
 II. Shellac 6 parts, white rosin 2, 
 and silver leaf 1. The brown color of 
 the resins imparts a golden tint to the 
 silver. 
 
 III. Shellac 1085 parts, rosin 1015, 
 turpentine 1120, chrome-green 35, mag- 
 nesia 17.5, gold leaf 87.5. 
 
 Green. I. Shellac 980 parts, turpen- 
 tine 560, rosin 525, gypsum 315, min- 
 eral blue 420, massicot 560. 
 
 II. Shellac 1295 parts, rosin 315, tur- 
 pentine 910, chalk 420, chrome-green 
 420. 
 
 Red ( Very Fine No. I.}. 1. Vene- 
 tian turpentine 133 parts, shellac 233, 
 cinnabar 83, chalk mixed with oil of 
 turpentine 3. 
 
 2. Shellac 100 parts, white rosin and 
 prepared cinnabar each 50 parts. 
 
 3. Turpentine 1050 parts, shellac 1138 
 parts, oil of turpentine 26 parts, sparry 
 gypsum 350 parts. 
 
 Red No. II. Venetian turpentine 
 133 parts, shellac 216, cinnabar 83, 
 colophony 16, chalk rubbed with oil 
 of turpentine 3. 
 
 II. Shellac 58 parts, Venetian tur- 
 pentine 87.5, cinnabar 43, magnesia 
 rubbed up with oil of turpentine 3. 
 
 Red No. If I. I. Venetian turpen- 
 tine 133 parts, rosin 75, shellac 200, 
 cinnabar 58, chalk rubbed up with oil 
 of turpentine 3. 
 
 II. Shellac 1200 parts, oil of turpen- 
 tine 66.5, chalk 100, turpentine 650, 
 calcined sparrv irvp.sum 150, magnesia 
 200-, cinnabar 866.0. 
 
 III. Shellac 884 parts, turpentine 
 1166.5, chalk 500, fine gypsum 333, cin- 
 nabar 216.5. 
 
 Red No. IV. Venetian turpentine 
 133 parts, shellac 200, rosin and cin- 
 nabar each 50, chalk rubbed up with 
 'oil of turpentine 3. 
 
 Red No. V. Venetian turpentine 
 
 133 parts, shellac 183, rosin 50, cin- 
 nabar 40, chalk rubbed up with oil of 
 turpentine 3. 
 
 Red (Ordinary}. I. Shellac 533 
 parts, rosin 266.5, turpentine 666.5, 
 gypsum 133, cinnabar 833. 
 
 II. Shellac 910 parts, rosin 770, tur- 
 pentine 1050, chalk and cinnabar each. 
 315. 
 
 Rose Color. Shellac 61 parts, Munich 
 Iake4, tin-ash 17.5,fiake-white52, wiiite 
 flake (the finest white lead) 17.5. 
 
 Violet. Shellac 245 parts, turpenti ne 
 122.5, mineral blue 79, white flake 52, 
 flake-white 35, Munich lake 9. 
 
 White. Bleached shellac 560 parts> 
 turpentine 280, Spanish chalk 192.5, 
 magnesia 17.5, flake-white 245, white 
 lead 350. 
 
 Yellow. I. Venetian turpentine 3 
 parts, shellac 3i, elutriated massicot 3. 
 
 II. Venetian turpentine 66.5 parts, 
 colophony 41.5, shellac 133, massicot 
 24.5, magnesia rubbed up with oil of 
 turpentine 2.5. 
 
 III. Shellac 1085 parts, rosin 700, 
 turpentine 560, gypsum 175, minium 
 507.5, magnesia 35, and chrome-yellow 
 297.5. 
 
 Transparent Sealing-wax. The best 
 quality of bleached shellac and other 
 materials must be used for making this 
 kind of wax. A mixture of bleached 
 shellac, mastic, and very fine, viscid, 
 light-colored turpentine gives the trans- 
 parency. In the following we give 
 several receipts for preparing the 
 ground mass for transparent sealing- 
 wax, which may be colored as desired 
 by mixing with suitable coloring 
 matters : 
 
 I. Bleached shellac 30 parts, turpen- 
 tine 30, mastic 60, chalk 20. 
 
 II. Bleached shellac 30, turpentine 
 35, mastic 40, and zinc white 20. 
 
 III. Bleached shellac 15, turpentine 
 20, mastic 25, sulphate of barium or 
 nitrate of bismuth 30. 
 
 Gold or Silver Transparent Sealing- 
 wax is obtained by mixing finely pul- 
 verized leaf-metal with one of the above 
 ground masses. 
 
 Aventurine Sealing-wax. This beau- 
 tiful variety of transparent sealing-wax 
 is obtained by stirring finely powdered 
 yellow or bronze-colored mica into one 
 of the above ground masses. 
 
 Parcel Sealing-wax. Light Red, 
 
318 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Common rosin 1120 parts, turpentine 
 280, better quality of rosin 280, chalk 
 840, and brick dust 840. 
 
 Dark Red-brown. Rosin 1540 parts, 
 chalk 420, turpentine 875, bole 560. 
 
 Light Red-brown. Common rosin 
 1120 parts, better quality of rosin and 
 turpentine each 280, chalk and colcothar 
 each 980. 
 
 Very Dark Brown. Shellac 1120 
 parts, turpentine 525, pitch 455, chalk 
 735, umber 560. 
 
 Cheap Parcel Sealing-wax. Heat 
 333 parts of ordinary turpentine, melt 
 in this 500 parts of shellac, and add 
 minium sufficient to give a fine color. 
 
 Another Receipt. Shellac 133 parts, 
 rosin 1.5, turpentine 83, cinnabar 0.8, 
 chalk 100. 
 
 Melt the shellac and turpentine over 
 a moderate fire and stir into the mixture 
 the chalk and cinnabar previously 
 mixed together. -When the compound 
 is cooled off so far that a portion taken 
 out with the stirring implement can be 
 handled without sticking to the fingers 
 roll it out into sticks upon a board 
 without wetting the board or the hands. 
 
 Bottle Sealing-wax. Melt together 
 white pitch 2 parts, yellow wax and 
 pine resin each 4, and turpentine 2. 
 
 Or: Pine resin 10 parts and yellow 
 wax and turpentine each 2. 
 
 The mixture is colored red with 2 
 parts of red ochre ; green, with Berlin 
 blue and chromate of zinc each 1 part ; 
 blue, with ultramarine 2 parts. 
 
 Black. I. Black rosin 6 parts by 
 weight, wax , lampblack H. 
 
 II. White pitch 2 parts, yellow wax 
 and pine rosin of each 4, turpentine 2, 
 bone-black 1. 
 
 The following receipt gives the best 
 mixture for hermetically closing bottles 
 containing alcoholic beverages: Melt 
 2 parts of yellow wax and then add 4 
 each of rosin and pitch. When the 
 whole is thinly fluid, dip the neck of 
 the bottle in the compound and turn it 
 horizontally. Some wine merchants in 
 Champagne give more transparency 
 and a finer color to the mixture by 
 adding 2 parts of shellac. 
 
 Bronze Sealing-wax for Bottles. Melt 
 1000 parts of colored bottle sealing-wax 
 over a moderate fire and add 100 to 200 
 of pulverized mica or bronze powder. 
 
 Substitute for Bottle Sealing-wax. 
 
 Mix gypsum 40 parts, white cement 60 
 parts, chalk 30 parts, dextrine 20 parts, 
 spirit-varnish 500 parts, and sufficient 
 coloring matter to give the desired 
 color. Dip the necks of the bottles into 
 the mixture and let them dry. 
 
 WAFERS. There are two modes of 
 manufacturing wafers, a. With wheat 
 flour and water for the ordinary kind, 
 and, b, with gelatine. The manufact- 
 ure presents no difficulty. The tools 
 required are, 1, a species of waffle iron, 
 consisting of 2 plates of iron which 
 come together like pincers, leaving a 
 small space between them ; and, 2, an- 
 nular punches of diiferent sizes, with 
 sharp edges to cut the prepared paste 
 into wafers. 
 
 White Wafers. Grease and slightly 
 heat the iron plates and fill them with 
 a thin dough made of the finest white 
 flour and water, close and expose them 
 to a charcoal fire. When cooled off, 
 open them and remove the thin dry 
 cake and punch out the wafers. 
 
 Colored Wafers are prepared in the 
 same manner except that the coloring 
 matter is mixed with the dough, and 
 the flour need not be absolutely white. 
 The coloring matter must be readily 
 soluble in water, devoid of any un- 
 pleasant taste or of injurious effects, 
 forbidding the use of most metallic 
 salts or oxides and certain vegetable 
 substances. If the coloring substances 
 cannot be dissolved in water ,4hey must 
 be converted into an impalpable pow- 
 der. 
 
 Black Wafers are produced by adding 
 some finely-pulverized lampblack or 
 Chinese ink to the dough. 
 
 Red, and Rose Color, by more or less 
 concentrated decoction of madder or 
 Brazil wood, or more beautiful with an 
 infusion of finely pulverized cochineal 
 brightened with some alum. 
 
 Yellow Wafers^ are obtained by color- 
 ing the dough with a decoction of weld 
 or turmeric, but saffron furnishes the 
 finest product. 
 
 Blue Wafers. Color the dough with 
 finely pulverized Berlin blue, or a blue 
 liquor obtained by adding & few drops 
 of a solution of sulphate of iron to one 
 of ferrocyanide of iron. 
 
 Violet Wafers are produced by add- 
 ing a mixture of red and blue to the 
 dough. 
 
SHOE-BLACKING, DRESSINGS, ETC. 
 
 310 
 
 Gelatine or French Wafers. Dis- 
 solve fine glue by itself, or mixed with 
 isinglass, in water to a suitable con- 
 sistency. Pour it upon a glass plate 
 previously warmed with steam and 
 slightly greased, which is fitted in a 
 metallic frame with edges just as high 
 as the wafers should be thick. A 
 second plate of glass, heated and 
 greased, is laid on the surface so as to 
 touch every point of the gelatine, and 
 resting on the edges of the frame. 
 When the two plates of glass get cold 
 the gelatine congeals, and may readily 
 be removed. It is then cut with proper 
 punches into wafers of different sizes. 
 
 The coloring matter should not be 
 of a poisonous kind. 
 
 For Light Red Wafers, mix the 
 boiled gelatine with fine English 
 minium rubbed up in whiskey; for 
 medium red, with Chinese cinnabar 
 rubbed up in whiskey. For all dark 
 colors it is necessary' to determine the 
 amount of coloring matter by experi- 
 ment, as, when too little is taken, the 
 color is not sufficiently fiery, and if too 
 much, the wafers lose their lustre and 
 adhesiveness. 
 
 For Transparent Red Wafers, decoc- 
 tion of Brazil wood brightened with 
 some alum may be used. 
 
 For Yellow, fin infusion of saffron or 
 turmeric is recommended, but a decoc- 
 tion of weld, fustic, or Persian berries 
 can be used. 
 
 For Blue Wafers, sulphate of indigo 
 partially saturated with potash is used, 
 and this mixed with yellow for the 
 greens. 
 
 English Metallic Wafers consist of 
 very thin leaf-metal glossy on the sur- 
 face and the lower side provided with 
 a sticky substance. The leaves are 
 passed between two rollers, one having 
 a smooth and the other a somewhat 
 rough surface. To the latter the fol- 
 lowing mixture is applied: Glue 16 
 parts, gum-Arabic 4, syrup 5, spirit of 
 wine 3, camphor 1, virgin wax 1, and 
 distilled water 12. The'ingredients are 
 placed in a glass flask hermetically 
 closed, and heated for 8 hours in a 
 sand-bath at a temperature of 210 F. 
 The solution is then filtered and diluted 
 with one of 1 part of alum in 15 of 
 water, keeping the temperature some- 
 what below the boiling point. When 
 
 dry, the prepared leaves are cut witii 
 proper punches into wafers of different 
 sizes. The smooth surface may be 
 gilded or lacquered. 
 
 SHOE-BLACKING, DRESSINGS, ETC. 
 
 1. Good blacking will preserve the 
 leather soft and flexible and show a 
 gloss with slight rubbing, not dimmed 
 by exposure to ordinary moisture. It 
 should be applied in a thin layer. 
 Bone-black is almost universally used 
 as a colorant, but as it contains only 9 
 or 10 per cent, of carbon to a large per 
 cent, of phosphate of lime, it must be 
 freed from the latter constituent to pre- 
 vent the black from having a gray 
 tinge, which is done as follows : Pour 
 3 parts of pure concentrated hydro- 
 chloric acid over 10 parts of bone-black, 
 and work into a paste with a spatula. 
 Let it stand for 24 hours, then add 50 
 parts of boiling water, and stir into a 
 thin mixture and let it settle. The 
 clear fluid is then drawn otF, and the 
 sediment mixed intimately with 2^ 
 parts of sulphuric acid. The mixture 
 is allowed to stand for 24 hours. Then 
 add 50 parts of boiling water, stir 
 thoroughly, let it settle and pour off 
 the clear fluid. The residue of bone- 
 black is now thoroughly disintegrated, 
 is nearly free from acid, not injurious 
 to leather, and furnishes blacking of a 
 deep-black color. 
 
 Lampblack and Frankfort black are 
 also used as pigments in the manu- 
 facture of blacking, but neither can re- 
 place bone-black, at least not without 
 a large addition of other substances to 
 give gloss. 
 
 If the object is to give to the blacking 
 a beautiful color without taking the 
 cost into consideration, some freshly- 
 precipitated Berlin-blue maybe added. 
 It gives to the blacking a bluish- black 
 shade of a metallic lustre. 
 
 2. Every blacking must contain an 
 agglutinant, which fixes the pigment 
 upon the leather and takes a gloss by 
 brushing. 
 
 It is best to use a mixture of 2 parts 
 of molasses and 1 of glycerine. This 
 combines the preserving qualities of 
 the glycerine and the power of the mo- 
 lasses to give a good gloss. 
 
320 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 3. As a third integral constituent of 
 blacking, especially of such not con- 
 taining glycerine, an addition of some 
 substance "is needed which will keep 
 the leather soft and flexible. Non- 
 drying fat oils, as olive oil, sesame oil, 
 lard, fish oil, etc., are best to use. 
 
 Sesame oil, being cheap, must be 
 preferred to olive oil. Lard is too dear, 
 and readily becomes rancid. Fish oil is 
 principally objectionable on account of 
 its smell. Five to 10 per cent, of the 
 weight of the bone-black of these oils 
 is^generally used. An addition of too 
 much oil makes it difficult to give a 
 gloss to the blacking, and besides the 
 dust adheres so tightly to the shoes or 
 boots as to make it almost impossible to 
 remove it. If the blacking contains 
 glycerine, a very small percentage of 
 oil will do, as glycerine aloue keeps the 
 leather soft and flexible. 
 
 4. Mixing the Ingredients. After the 
 bone-black has been disintegrated by 
 means of acid, add the substances giv- 
 ing gloss, then the oil, and finally suf- 
 ficient water, beer, or vinegar to allow 
 of the whole being mixed together. 
 
 We give below a number of receipts, 
 most of which have been tested and can j 
 be recommended. 
 
 Caoutchouc Blackings. Receipt I. | 
 In the Form of Paste. Mix bone-black 
 20 parts, molasses 15, vinegar and sul- 
 phuric acid of each 4, and caoutchouc 
 oil (see below) 3. 
 
 Receipt II. In Fluid Form.. Bone- 
 black 60 parts, molasses 45, dissolved 
 gum 1, vinegar 50, sulphuric acid 24, 
 caoutchouc oil 9. 
 
 Caoutchouc Oil is prepared by di- 
 gesting, with the assistance of heat, f>.~> 
 parts of caoutchouc in 450 parts of rape- 
 seed oil. 
 
 Cordova Slacking. Thig blacking 
 deserves special recommendation for 
 blacking shoes, boots, harness, etc.., 
 as it contains neither hydrochloric nor j 
 sulphuric acid. Mix: Vinegar 1500 
 parts, beer 500 parts, good cabinet- 
 makers' glue 250 parts, sumac 60 parts, 
 isinglass 4 parts, indigo 2 parts, and let 
 the whole boil slowly for i hour. 
 Strain, after cooling, and apply with a 
 sponge. 
 
 Dressing for Dancing Shoes. Gum- 
 Arabic 1 part, loaf sugar and bone- 
 plack each i, and sufficient water, j 
 
 Dissolve the gum and the sugar, trit- 
 urate the bone-black with the solution, 
 and apply the fluid with a sponge. 
 
 Dressing free from Sulphuric Acid. 
 Boil for J hour: 1 part of extract of 
 logwood and 30 of gall-nuts coarsely 
 powdered, press out and strain the 
 liquid, and add to it 8 parts of sulphate 
 of iron. Let it stand for 24 hours, 
 strain off the clear fluid, heat it moder- 
 ately and stir into it 8 parts of gum- 
 Arabic, 100 of rock -candy, and 80 of 
 molasses. Strain the fluid again, and 
 add 50 parts of spirit of wine, 40 of a 
 solution of equal quantities of shellac 
 and pulverized indigo. 
 
 Dressing, equal if not superior to 
 Paris dressing, is prepared as follows: 
 Boil for half an hour 20 parts of bruised 
 gall nuts and 10 parts of logwood in 500 
 parts of water or wine, then strain and 
 add to the liquor 10 parts of sulphate 
 of iron and 2 parts of sulphate of cop- 
 per, and allow the whole to stand 12 
 hours. The next day the clear fluid is 
 drawn from the sediment and heated, 
 and 90 parts of gum- Arabic dissolved in 
 it, and finally 60 parts of syrup and 150 
 parts of spirit of wine are added. The 
 dressing is applied with a brush and 
 brushed. 
 
 Another Receipt. Boil in 200 parts 
 of water 20 parts of soap and 10 parts 
 each of sulphate of iron, starch, and 
 powdered gall-nuts, strain oft' the fluid 
 and add to it 30 parts of disintegrated 
 bone-black and 60 parts of syrup. 
 
 This dressing acquires great gloss 
 and is certainly not injurious to the 
 leather. 
 
 English Water-proof Blacking. Stir 
 60 parts of bone-black into 45 parts of 
 molasses, and pour over it 12 parts of 
 vinegar, and stir in gradually 12 of 
 sulphuric acid. Let it stand for 7 days, 
 and then add 9 parts of caoutchouc oil 
 and keep the finished blacking in 
 jars. 
 
 The caoutchouc oil is prepared by 
 melting 1 part of caoutchouc cut up in 
 pieces in an earthen pot over a coal- 
 fire, and mixing with it 6 to 8 parts of 
 linseed oil, stirring constantly. 
 
 Fluid Blacking, a Substitute for 
 Ointment and Lacquer. Make a mixt- 
 ure of 500 parts of asphaltum and 500 
 of petroleum, to which add first 60 
 parts of linseed-oil varnish, next 140 
 
SHOE-BLACKING, DRESSINGS, ETC. 
 
 parts of train oil, and finally 130 parts 
 of alcohol. 
 
 French Paste for Patent. Leather. To 
 preserve the gloss of patent leather the 
 following preparation is used : Melt 
 pure wax over a water-bath. Place it 
 on a moderate coal-fire, add first some 
 olive oil and then some lard, and mix 
 intimately by stirring. Then add some 
 oil of turpentine, and finally some oil 
 of lavender. The resulting paste is 
 filled in boxes, where, on congealing, 
 it will acquire the requisite consistency. 
 Apply a little of it to the shoe or boot, 
 and rub with a linen rag, which will 
 restore the gloss to the leather and keep 
 it soft and prevent cracking. 
 
 Good Shoe-blacking. Mix 2 parts of 
 olive oil with 15 of syrup, then mix 1 
 part of sulphuric acid with 75 of stale 
 beer. Pour the two mixtures together, 
 and add 15 parts of bone-black and 4 
 parts of indigo triturated with beer. 
 Boil the whole for about 10 minutes. 
 
 Another Receipt. Mix 6 parts of fine 
 bone-black, 28 of syrup, 4 of sugar, 3 of 
 train oil, and 1 of sulphuric acid ; let 
 the mixture stand for 8 hours, then 
 add, with vigorous and constant stirring, 
 4 parts of decoction of tan, 18 of bone- 
 black, and 3 of sulphuric acid, and 
 pour the compound into boxes. 
 
 Gutta-percha Blacking, a. Dissolve 
 20 parts of gum-Arabic in 1000 of 
 water. Pour 50 parts of olive oil over 
 20 of gutta-percha cut in pieces, and 
 melt, with constant stirring, into a uni- 
 form mass, and stir it into the dissolved 
 gum-Arabic. 
 
 b. Mix intimately 200 parts of bone- 
 black, 400 of lampblack, and 1500 of 
 molasses. Melt the mixtures a and b 
 together. 
 
 As will be seen from the receipt the 
 preparation is entirely free from acid, 
 and cannot injure the leather in the 
 least. The addition of gutta-percha 
 causes the leather, after repeated treat- 
 ment with this blacking, to become 
 nearly water-proof. 
 
 Hardeg's Leather Ointments. I. Melt 
 and mix : Yellow wax, oil of turpen- 
 tine, olive oil, castor oil, each 25 parts, 
 and linseed oil purified and boiled 50 
 parts, and add, with constant stirring, 
 37i parts of pure wood tar. 
 
 II. Melt and mix : Yellow wax, oil 
 of turpentine, and castor oil each 12i 
 21 
 
 parts, linseed oil purified and boiled 
 125, and tar 3 parts. 
 
 Konrad's Celebrated Blacking. Melt 
 in an earthenware pot: Lard 75 parts, 
 train oil 8, tar 2, and colophony 2. 
 When the mixture is homogeneous pour 
 it upon 430 parts of sifted animal char- 
 coal, mix them thoroughly, and add 30 
 parts of furniture polish and 70 of 
 syrup. 
 
 Boil in another pot: Mountain ash 
 berries 70 parts, rasped logwood 30, sul- 
 phate of iron 16, gall nuts 4, and verdi. 
 gris 2, with rain-water 300 ; pour off the 
 liquor and compound it with 12J parts 
 of alum. As soon as the liquor is cool 
 add gradually and with constant stir- 
 ring 3 parts of indigo dissolved in 25 of 
 sulphuric acid. 
 
 This liquor is now poured in small 
 quantities at a time upon the above 
 mixture and intimately mixed with it 
 by vigorous stirring. The pasty com- 
 pound when cold is dried, rubbed fine, 
 and then packed. 
 
 Ointment for Boots used by the Nor- 
 mandy Fishermen. M ix 50 parts of good 
 linseed oil, 35 parts of spermaceti, 5 
 parts of yellow wax, and 3 parts each 
 of pitch and oil of turpentine. Melt 
 the whole in an earthenware pot over 
 a moderate fire, care being had to pre- 
 vent the mixture from igniting. The 
 compound is rubbed into the leather 
 and then dried by exposure to heat. 
 
 Shoe-blacking from Potatoes. Boil in 
 a suitable vessel 10 parts of potatoes 
 chopped fine, and 1 of concentrated sul- 
 phuric acid until a black glossy mass 
 has been formed. Then compound it 
 with 4 parts of bone-black and a corre- 
 sponding quantity of train oil ; stir thor- 
 oughly and form into cakes. 
 
 Water-proof Blacking. Mix 60 parts 
 of bone-black with 45 of syrup; dilute 
 the mixture with 12 parts of strong 
 vinegar, and then add gradually and 
 with constant stirring 12 parts of sul- 
 phuric acid. Let the whole stand for 
 7 days, and then mix it with 9 parts of 
 caoutchouc oil. 
 
 Water-proof Ointments for Shoes and 
 Boots. I. Green wagon grease 3 parts, 
 lard 1, and wall-wort (Symphytum 
 officinale) i part. The wall-wort is 
 chopped up very fine and boiled to a 
 thick paste with water, and then pressed 
 so that the fibrous parts remain behind. 
 
322 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Should the leather be very hard more 
 wall-wort must be used. 
 
 This composition makes the leather 
 water-proof, soft, and gives it almost 
 incredible durability. The boots are 
 first moistened with warm water and 
 then thoroughly impregnated, especial- 
 ly the soles and seams, with this paste, 
 and allowed to dry slowly either in the 
 sun or near a stove. This is repeated 
 at least every two weeks, although it is 
 then sufficient to moisten only the soles 
 and seams. Boots treated in this man- 
 ner can be polished with ordinary 
 blacking. 
 
 II. Melt in an earthenware pot over 
 a moderate fire 6 parts of spermaceti, 
 add 12 parts of caoutchouc cut up in 
 strips, and when this is dissolved 12 
 parts of tallow, 4 of lard, and 8 of am- 
 ber-varnish. Mix the whole intimately, 
 and the compound is ready for use. 
 Apply it twice or three times to the 
 shoes with an ordinary blacking brush. 
 It renders the leather water-proof and 
 gives it a fine gloss. 
 
 To give to the Soles, after Scraping, a 
 Smooth and Beautiful Appearance. 
 Dissolve 1 part of stearine in 4 to 5 of 
 benzine. Apply the solution to the 
 soles, and, when dry, rub smooth with 
 a linen rag. 
 
 Another solution well adapted for 
 the same purpose is obtained by melt- 
 ing together 5 parts of stearine with 1 
 of white wax. Rub the soles, after 
 scraping, with this compound, and 
 smooth with a clean cloth. 
 
 For Hemlock Leather Soles the follow- 
 ing mixture is used : Alcohol, saturated 
 solution of sodium hyposulphite, and 
 hydrochloric acid, equal parts. 
 
 To Prevent Boots and /Shoes from 
 Squeaking, rasp with a coarse rasp the 
 outsole and insole, and every other 
 piece of leather that is moved by the 
 action of the foot. Then apply freely 
 good wheat or rye paste. If this is well 
 attended to from heel to toe, the boot 
 or shoe will not squeak. 
 
 How to Make Water-proof Soots. 
 For 3 pairs of boots cut 3 ounces of 
 caoutchouc in small pieces, place them 
 in a pot over a fire, and add oil of tur- 
 pentine sufficient to form a stiif paste. 
 Great care must be observed, as the 
 mass ignites easily. By diluting the 
 compound with 1 pint of boiled linseed- 
 
 oil an ointment of the consistency of 
 yolk of egg is obtained. 
 
 The uppers of a pair of boots are first 
 soaked in a tub with hot water and 
 brushed while in the water, until the 
 pores are thoroughly opened and en- 
 tirely free from lime. They are then 
 shrunk, dried, and cut somewhat larger 
 than the measure. The uppers are 
 then greased with the compound, lined 
 with soft leather consisting of 2 parts 
 sewed together in the centre, and 
 stretched over the last. The upper is 
 then turned up and the lining brushed 
 over with the water-proofing compound. 
 The upper is then drawn over it and 
 tacked. The peg-leather is filled out 
 with leather and the inner sole burned 
 in with pitch, care being had that the 
 leather forms a close union with the 
 pitch on all points. Finally the soles 
 are sewed on. Boots thus' made are 
 entirely water-proof, so that, even if the 
 sole is broken, water cannot penetrate ; 
 but in this case they should be half- 
 soled before the inner sole is injured. 
 
 SIZING AND DRESSING FOR COTTON, 
 WOOL, STRAW, ETC. 
 
 Sack's Improved Size and Dressing 
 for Linen, Cotton, and Woollen Goods. 
 The sizing of yarn and dressing the 
 finished goods is well known to be one 
 of the most difficult operations in the 
 production of linen, cotton, and woollen 
 goods. The greatest difficulty lies in 
 the preparation of the size, which con- 
 tains generally too much glue and mu- 
 cous constituents, thus rendering the 
 working of the yarn more difficult. For 
 this reason we give here a peculiar 
 method of preparing a size and dressing 
 which, it is claimed, possesses all the 
 qualities demanded. 
 
 1. Size. Boil 100 parts of ordinary 
 peas in 400 parts of soft water, allow 
 it to cool and then add 25 parts of the 
 sticky buds of the balsam poplar and 
 allow the whole to come once to a 
 boil. The compound is then allowed to 
 stand for 24 hours, and the superna- 
 tant clear fluid may then be used for 
 sizing. 
 
 2. Dressing. This is prepared in the 
 same manner, but the proportions are 
 as follows: Water 600 parts, peas 50 
 
SIZINGS AND DRESSINGS. 
 
 323 
 
 parts, and buds of balsam poplar 25 
 parts. Apply the fluid by means of a 
 sponge to the plain or dyed goods, pile 
 them up over each other for 36 hours, 
 then stretch them in a frame and dry 
 in the air. Size and dressing must be 
 prepared fresh every time, as, by ex- 
 posure to the air, they become sour, and 
 decompose in a short time. 
 
 Dressing and Size. The compound 
 can be prepared in solid or fluid form, 
 perfumed or not. To prepare it in fluid 
 form take: Glycerine of 2 Beaume 
 1000 parts, sodium carbonate and gela- 
 tine each 10 parts, alum and borax each 
 ik part. Mix intimately to a homo- 
 geneous fluid compound. To prepare it 
 in solid form mix different proportions of 
 gelatine, hog-fat soap, stearine, gum- 
 Arabic, or gum tragacanth, with vary- 
 ing proportions of borax, soda, and 
 alum. To perfume the compound dis- 
 solve 1 part each of oil of peppermint 
 and oil of lavender and 2 parts of 
 camphor in 40 parts of alcohol, and add 
 1 part of the solution to the above-de- 
 scribed fluid. 
 
 JEau de Crystall. This size consists 
 of sulphate of magnesium, chloride of 
 magnesium, and dextrine. The varieties 
 found in commerce contain : 
 
 Ordinary Good 
 quality, quality, 
 per cent, per cent. 
 
 Water 60 51 to 52 
 
 Sulphate of magnesium . 36 to 38 42 to 48 
 Chloride of magnesium . to 1.5 
 
 Ferric oxide traces. 
 
 Sulphate of sodium . . . to 5.04 
 Sulphate of calcium . . to 0.62 
 
 Glycerine and its Use in Sizing and 
 Dressing. To load and oil the wool the 
 following mixture is used : Rosin and 
 aqua ammonia free from lime each 1 
 part by weight and water 10 parts by 
 weight are mixed, filtered through a 
 cloth, and half the quantity by weight 
 of fat oil adde.d, and then the whole 
 quantity by weight of glycerine. This 
 mixture is reduced half with water and 
 used for oiling the wool. It is also much 
 used as a solvent for aniline colors, 
 being capable of dissolving a larger 
 quantity of them and at a lower tem- 
 perature than alcohol. Its power of 
 dissolving albumen makes it especially 
 adapted for calico-printing. Solutions 
 
 of albumen in glycerine keep for a long 
 time and are not decomposed even at 
 158 F. We give in the following a few 
 receipts for dressing with glycerine : 
 
 1. For White Goods. 1. Water 20 
 parts, gelatine 6, glycerine 2. 
 
 2. Starch 2 parts, glycerine 3. 
 
 3. Kaolin 9 parts, sulphate of cal- 
 cium 5, glycerine 2. 
 
 4. Kaolin 8 parts, dextrine 7, glyc- 
 erine 4. 
 
 A mixture brought into commerce 
 under the name of " polyokoll " or "par- 
 mentine" consists of 100 parts of gel- 
 atine, 70 of dextrine, 20 of glycerine, 
 and 21 of sulphate of zinc; or, grape 
 sugar 10 parts, Epsom salts 15, glycer- 
 ine 5, saltpetre H, dissolved in water, 
 and diluted to 6 Beaume. 
 
 For sizing the following mixtures are 
 used : I. Glycerine 12, dextrine 5, sul- 
 phate of aluminium 1, water 30. 
 
 2. Dissolves parts of glue in 50 parts 
 of boiling water. Pour the solution 
 into 500 parts of glycerine of 20 
 Beaume and add a solution of 5 parts 
 of soda. An addition of a small quan- 
 tity of carbolic acid prevents decompo- 
 sition of the mixture. 
 
 3. A compound glycerine sizing 
 liquid is prepared from glycerine 
 100 parts, soda 1, gelatine 1, white 
 starch 10, alum 1100, and borax 1100. 
 The hardening of cotton yarns is also 
 conveniently prevented by an immer- 
 sion in a glycerine bath. 
 
 New Preparation, called Glutine, 
 used for giving Gloss to Wall Papers, 
 and as an Tnspissation for Dyeing and 
 Printing Purposes. Press caseine, gen- 
 erally known as curd, through rollers 
 revolving towards each other, to free it 
 from fluid, and convert into a coarse 
 powder. Triturate the powder with 1 
 part of sodium tungstate, or pass the 
 compound through the rollers to effect- 
 ually crush the smallest particle of 
 caseine, for as soon as the solution 
 comes in contact with the caseine re- 
 action begins and the compound be- 
 comes tough. Caseine containing much 
 buttermilk is mixed with hydrochloric 
 acid and water, and then repeatedly 
 washed with water, until all acid re- 
 action has ceased, when it is pressed 
 out and treated as above. The caseine 
 and soda solution are stirred in a boiler 
 over a water-bath until the caseiiie is 
 
324 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 fully dissolved, and add a little car- 
 bolic acid and a few drops of oil of 
 cloves. When all is melted pour the 
 compound out, which on cboling will 
 form a more or less solid mass, accord- 
 ing to the quantity of water used. The 
 glutine is soluble in water in every 
 proportion, possesses great adhesive 
 power, and furnishes an excellent paste 
 for fastening labels on tin, glass, and 
 porcelain. When once dry it resists 
 moisture quite well, and gives to dull 
 wall papers, printed with mineral or 
 metallic colors, a beautiful glossy coat- 
 ing, which is made more flexible by 
 an addition of a little glycerine. Gel- 
 atine dissolved in glycerine produces a 
 beautiful, tenacious compound, which 
 gives to paper a flexible enamel, that 
 on being passed through a solution of 
 alum resembles leather. Glutine with 
 decoction of dye wood gives, on account 
 of its percentage of tungstic acid, vari- 
 ous tints of colors. Steeping cotton or 
 linen in a solution of glutine, then 
 dried and drawn through a decoction 
 of logwood, receives a violet color ; by 
 drawing them through acids or solu- 
 tions of mineral salts fast colors of 
 various shades are obtained. 
 
 New Size. Treating starch with soda- 
 lye produces a paste which is used for 
 sizing, and sold under various names. 
 One disadvantage of this compound is 
 that it is always more or less alkaline. 
 It is claimed that otherwise it would 
 lose its efficiency. Chloride of mag- 
 nesium has been recently substituted 
 for the soda-lye. Add 100 parts of 
 chloride of magnesium to a sufficient 
 quantity of boiling water to dissolve 
 the starch, and in a short time draw off 
 the clear liquor, to which is added 1 
 part of hydrochloric acid, and then 100 
 parts of starch are thrown in, and the 
 compound brought to the boiling point. 
 After the mixture has been kept at a 
 temperature of 195 F. for about 1 hour, 
 clarified lime water is added to neutral- 
 ize it. The boiling is repeated once 
 more, and the resulting artificial glue 
 fe, in case it is to be stored, poured into 
 moulds, and allowed to congeal. 
 
 Preparation of Artificial Gum to be 
 nse.d in Place of Gum- Arabic. Place 
 in a boiler, water equal to 6 times the 
 weight of the starch to be added and 
 heat it to about 86 F., and stir in 20 
 
 parts of wheat starch, then 100 parts 
 of potato starch, 20 parts each of sago 
 and crushed malt. Heat the mass over 
 a water-bath until a gummy compound 
 is formed, requiring generally 1 hour 
 after adding the crushed malt. The 
 operation is not complete as long as a 
 drop of the gum mixed with tincture 
 of iodine shows a blue color; when it 
 shows a reddish-violet color reduce the 
 temperature of the gum mixture to 
 212 F. by shutting off' the steam. The 
 solution is then allowed to stand for 1 
 hour, when it is filtered through a 
 woollen cloth. It is then concentrated 
 by bringing it into another vessel and 
 heating by means of steam-pipes to ex- 
 pel the water. If it is desired to obtain 
 the gum in a dry state the compound ia 
 divided into small pieces and dried. 
 
 Preparation of Blood Albumen. The 
 principal requisite in preparing blood 
 albumen is that the working- room 
 should be located as close as possible 
 to the slaughter-house, as the quicker 
 the coagulated blood is cut and placed 
 upon the sieves the brighter and purer 
 the serum drains off. The blood is 
 cut up in pieces of about 1 cubic inch, 
 placed upon sieves, and allowed to drain 
 off 40 to 48 hours. At first the serum 
 is red on account of corpuscles of blood 
 being mixed with it, but in about 1 hour 
 it drains off perfectly clear. After the 
 time stated above the clear fluid is 
 drawn from the red sediment into 
 wooden vats having a capacity of 40 to 
 60 gallons. From the serum " natural 
 albumen," without gloss, and "patent 
 albumen," with gloss, are prepared. 
 
 To manufacture natural albumen add 
 12 } parts of oil of turpentine to 5000 
 parts of serum, and agitate the mixture 
 for 1 hour by means of a perforated 
 board provided with a handle. The 
 oil of turpentine forms ozone, which has 
 a bleaching effect; it withdraws also a 
 mucous fat from the serum and acts 
 as a preservative. The mixture is then 
 allowed to stand quietly for 24 to 36 
 hours, and the clear serum is then 
 drawn from the sediment. The drying 
 is accomplished in iron cups coated 
 with oil-paint and lacquer burned in. 
 The cups are about 12 inches long, 6 
 inches wide, and 2 inch deep. The 
 temperature of the drying-room at the 
 start must be about 122 F., and is 
 
SIZINGS AND DRESSINGS. 
 
 325 
 
 gradually raised for 2 hours to 125 
 to 130 F. It is then lowered to 100 
 to 105 F., and kept there for 34 hours, 
 when the drying is finished. 
 
 To Prepare Patent Albumen add to 
 5000 parts of serum 12 parts of sulphuric 
 acid mixed with 22 parts of concen- 
 trated acetic acid and 336 parts of 
 water, and then add 14 parts of oil of 
 turpentine and agitate for 1 hour. The 
 whole is then allowed to stand quietly 
 for 24 to 36 hours, when the clear 
 serum is drawn off, neutralized with 
 ammonia, and dried. Fifty thousand 
 parts of serum give 5000 parts of dry 
 blood albumen. 
 
 A second quality of albumen is pre- 
 pared from the serum colored red by 
 blood corpuscles and the sediment, 
 and a third quality by lixiviating the 
 blood with water. The remaining 
 blood is comminuted and dried in 
 sheet-iron pans at a temperature of 
 143 to 167 F. 
 
 Preparation of Dextrine. Dilute 4 
 parts of nitric acid of 36 to 40 Beaume 
 with 600 of water, and pour the mixture 
 over 2000 parts of dry potato starch ; 
 mix thoroughly and dry. When the 
 evaporation has progressed so far that 
 the cakes can be easily broken crush 
 them with a shovel and spread the 
 stnrch upon the floor of the drying- 
 room in a layer i to 1 inch deep. The 
 temperature 'should be kept at 230 to 
 24^ F., and the dextrine will be fin- 
 ished in H hours. It will remain 
 white if not exposed to too high a tem- 
 perature. 
 
 Process of Sizing all Kinds of 
 Tisanes with Alkaline Solutions of 
 'Silk, Won?, or Feathers. Dissolve 
 fibres of silk, wool, or down in caustic 
 soda, and apply the solution to the 
 tissues, which are then washed in a 
 bath of sulphuric acid and carefully 
 rinsed. Tissues thus treated may be 
 bleached and dyed. 
 
 This process is used for loading 
 woollen and sTlk yarns and tissues 
 with an alkaline solution of wool or 
 silk, and eventually to improve de- 
 fective qualities. Mixtures of alkaline 
 solutions of silk and wool, silk and 
 down, etc., may also be used for coat- 
 ing all kinds of textile fibres. 
 
 Size for Bobbinet. The bobbinet, 
 after bleaching, dyeing, and drying, is 
 
 stretched evenly in a machine. It is 
 then brought into a closed room hav- 
 ing a temperature of 98i to 104 F., 
 and coated several times with a cold 
 size consisting of boiled starch and 
 dextrine with an admixture of some 
 gelatine or glue, until the desired de- 
 gree of stiffness and gloss the latter 
 being produced by the temperature 
 prevailing in the work-room is ob- 
 tained. The size is applied with 
 brushes. Bobbinet thus prepared is 
 equal to the English product. The 
 size is boiled the day before, and cooled 
 off to an ordinary temperature, say 
 68 F. 
 
 Size for Cotton Yarns. An improved 
 size for cotton yarns, patented by H. 
 Wegmann, consists of tallow, soft soap, 
 rosin, sulphate of iron, and onions. 
 Boil the rosin, sulphate of iron, onions, 
 and tallow until sufficiently liquid, 
 and add the mass to the soft soap 
 melted in a tank with steam and hot 
 water. Mix the ingredients thoroughly 
 with steam, and add them to the starch 
 or flour with sufficient water to make 
 the sizing of the desired consistency. 
 
 Size for Cotton and Woollen Yarns, 
 especially for dark colors. Liquefy 
 100 parts of glue and 20 parts of glyc- 
 erine in water on the water-bath, and 
 then add 5 parts of potassium bichro- 
 mate. The compound, by reason of 
 becoming decomposed by light, must 
 be kept in the dark. 
 
 Size for Cotton. I. Flour 1250 parts, 
 tallow 5 parts, paraffine 5 to 2 per cent. ; 
 or, flour 1 250 parts and 5 to 10 per cent, 
 of paraffine. Add a little alkaline 
 carbonate to both compounds. The 
 materials are mixed with water, 
 heated, and thoroughly mixed to- 
 gether. 
 
 II. Glue 600 parts, dextrine 400 
 parts, sulphate of calcium 500 parts, 
 glycerine 5000 parts, chloride of lime 5 
 parts, spermaceti 500 parts, stearine 
 200 parts, starch-syrup and starch each 
 500 parts, carbolic acid 5 parts, and 
 caustic soda 10 parts are thoroughly 
 mixed. 
 
 Dressing Cotton Prints. I. Prepare 
 the following decoction: Water 137 
 parts, wheat flour 5 parts, potato starch 
 15 parts, wheat starch 5 parts, cocoa- 
 nut oil i part. The goods are starched 
 with covered starching rollers, dried 
 
326 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 over drums, and strongly but uniformly 
 moistened, being wound up very tightly 
 at the same time. They remain upon 
 the rollers for 10 to 12 hours, when 
 they are unwound, folded, and pressed. 
 
 II. Mix | part of pulverized gum 
 tragacanth with spirit of wine "and 
 work it into a homogeneous compound, 
 then digest this in 450 parts of water 
 over a moderate fire, without allowing 
 it to boil, until a liquid, slimy com- 
 pound is formed, which is passed 
 through a sieve. Now boil 150 parts 
 of potato starch with about 1000 parts 
 of water, and add to the boiling mixture 
 7i to 8J parts of alum previously dis- 
 solved in hot water. Then add the 
 solution of gum tragacanth, stirring it 
 in but not boiling it with the starch. 
 
 Glaze Dressing for Colored Cotton 
 Goods. I. Glaze on Black. Weak liquor 
 of logwood 1700 parts, potato starch 100 
 to 120 parts, wheat flour 50 to 60 parts, 
 palm oil 10 parts, yellow wax and tal- 
 low each 5 parts. Compound the de- 
 coction with 1 to part of potassium 
 chromate, and then add solution of 
 rosin 45 parts, and potato syrup 22i 
 parts. Mix the whole thoroughly and 
 use hot. 
 
 II. Glaze on Black Goods when the 
 Color is not sufficiently Deep and Dark. 
 Logwood liquor, to which some extract 
 is added, 1700 parts, potato starch 100 
 to 120 parts, wheat flour 50 to 60 parts, 
 palm oil 10 parts, yellow wax and 
 tallow each 5 parts, acetate of iron 13 
 parts, sulphate of iron and sulphate of 
 copper each 2i parts. The decoction 
 is compounded with to i part of potas- 
 sium chromate and 1J parts of bluestone, 
 and 45 parts of a solution of rosin and 
 22 parts of potato syrup are finally 
 added. 
 
 Glaze on Blue and Green. Water 
 1700 parts, potato starch 100 to 120 
 parts, wheat flour 50 to 60 parts. The 
 proportions of fat, rosin, and potato 
 syrup are the same as for black. When 
 the decoction is about half-cold com- 
 pound it with H parts of tartaric acid 
 dissolved in water, and finally darken 
 it according to the desired tint with in- 
 digo-carmine, or, still better, with solu- 
 tion of potassium sulphate. 
 
 Glaze on Crimnon Paper Muslin. 
 Water 570 parts, liquor of Brazil wood 
 1700 parts, potato starch 100 parts, 
 
 wheat flour 50 parts. When half-cold 
 add 2 to 2J parts of tartaric acid, and 
 fine the decoction with 137i to 140 
 parts of vinegar. Use fat, rosin, and 
 syrup in the same proportions as for 
 black. 
 
 Glaze on Rose-colored Muslin. 
 Water 1700 parts, potato starch 100 to 
 120 parts, wheat flour 50 to 60 parts, 
 white cocoanut oil 5 to 7i parts, white 
 wax and stearine each 5 parts. Com- 
 pound with 1| to 2 parts of tartaric 
 acid dissolved in water, and 115 to 135 
 parts of good wine vinegar. 
 
 Size for Laces. Boil f part of borax 
 and 3 parts of shellac with 1000 parts 
 of water. The solution may be thick- 
 ened with starch, gelatine, or isinglass. 
 One part of the above solution and 1 
 part of gelatine solution give a very 
 good size. For white laces bleached 
 shellac must, of course, be used. 
 
 Size for Linen. I. For Half-bleached 
 Linen. Boil by introducing steam : 
 Wheat starch 5 parts, potato starch 2 
 parts, Utrecht white 4V parts, light glue 
 i part, until 80 parts of size are ob- 
 tained. 
 
 II. For Fine Holland Linen. Fine 
 white wheat starch 100 parts, potato 
 starch 25 parts, fine mineral white 12J 
 parts, soap and stearine each 5 parts, 
 white wax 1 parts, and crystallized 
 soda f part are boiled by introducing 
 steam, and then colored slightly with 
 ultramarine. 
 
 For Table Linen and Damask. 
 Wheat starch 50 parts, potato starch 8 
 parts, white glue 5 parts, stearine and 
 white wax each 2-i parts, white soap H 
 parts, and crystallized soda 12 parts, 
 are boiled by introducing steam. 
 
 Dressing for Panama Hats. The 
 following lacquer is highly recom- 
 mended for the purpose : Alcohol of 95 
 per cent. 200 parts, sandarac 100 parts, 
 and oil of turpentine 20 parts, are di- 
 gested for 10 days. The hat is coated 
 twice with this lacquer, inside and out. 
 
 Size for Petinet and Marly. The 
 process of sizing petinet and marly, 
 to give them sufficient stiffness, hard- 
 ness, and glaze to adapt them for bon- 
 net-frames is as follows : The bleached 
 material is starched, then stretched in 
 a frame and dusted while yet somewhat 
 moist with fine starch flour by means 
 of a hair sieve, so that the meshes re- 
 
SOAPS. 
 
 327 
 
 main free, but the powder adheres 
 abundantly to the threads. The frame 
 thus prepared is then placed in a 
 tightly-closed box into which steam is 
 introduced. The steam swells up the 
 threads, they becoming in consequence 
 adapted for an absorption of the dis- 
 solved starch, and that which is not ab- 
 sorbed is changed into a jelly, adhering 
 tightly to the threads. The frame is 
 then taken from the box and a fine 
 current of cold water thrown over it 
 until the starch jelly begins to dissolve, 
 when the frame is replaced in the box 
 and steam introduced until the starch 
 is transparent, clear, and glossy. The 
 frame is then taken from the box and 
 dried. 
 
 8ize for Woollen Goods, Cloths, and 
 Flannels. Prepare a decoction of flax- 
 seed, to which, for black or blue colors, 
 some logwood liquor may be added. 
 The decoction must be so thick that it 
 draws threads like white of egg. It is 
 then forced through coarse linen and 
 applied with a brush. Dry linen moist- 
 ened with weak soap-water is then 
 placed upon the face of the cloth and 
 ironed with a hot iron. 
 
 Sulphate of Barium has been for a 
 long time used insizingand dressing tis- 
 sues. The old method consisted in add- 
 ing sulphate of barium to the starch or 
 animal or vegetable glue. This gave to 
 the size a yellowish tint, injuring Lhe 
 whiteness of the tissues. The object of 
 the new process is to remedy this evil. 
 Mix in varying proportions, according 
 to the strength and weight of the size 
 desired: 1, Water; 2, starch, vegetable, 
 or animal glue; 3, drying oil, castor 
 oil, poppy seed oil, etc.; 4, sulphate of 
 barium in a nascent condition, i. e., 
 in the act of formation. The most 
 suitable proportions are as follows : 
 Water 400 parts, starch 100 parts, cas- 
 tor oil 10 to 20 per cent, of the weight 
 of the starch, chloride of barium 10 to 
 20 per cent, of the weight of the 
 starch, and a sufficient quantity of 
 ordinary sodium sulphate to com- 
 pletely decompose the chloride of ba- 
 rium by chemical reciprocal action. 
 All the ingredients are mixed together 
 and heated to form a paste. This pro- 
 cess is still further facilitated by the 
 fact that the chloride of barium and 
 the sulphate of sodium can be mixed in 
 
 a dry state without fear of reciprocal de- 
 composition. 
 
 Gerard's Apparatine is a colorless 
 transparent mass prepared from potato 
 starch with caustic soda or potash-lye, 
 and used for dressing all kinds of 
 fabrics. To prepare it take 76 parts of 
 water, 16 of potato starch, and 8 of 
 caustic lye of 25 B. ; pour the starch 
 into the water, and then add the lye, 
 stirring constantly. The fluid clarifies 
 suddenly, and gives a thick gelatine, 
 which must be vigorously beaten. If 
 dried in thin leaves it forms a hornlike 
 substance, which can be folded together 
 without breaking. 
 
 SOAP. HAED AND SOFT SOAPS, MEDI- 
 CATED AND TOILET SOAPS, ETC. 
 
 American Rosin Soap. Place 1000 
 pounds of tallow, 200 pounds of crude 
 palm oil, and 800 pounds of rosin in 
 a boiler, and add about 4000 pounds 
 of lye of 15 B. until a clear paste 
 is formed, which is then thoroughly 
 salted and allowed to stand about 3 
 hours, when the settled salt-lye is 
 pumped or drawn oiF. Five hundred 
 pounds of water and 250 pounds of lye 
 of 8 B. are added to the boiler, and a 
 fire started under it. Should the com- 
 bination be incomplete after boiling, 
 add enough lye of 15 B. until a clear 
 soap is formed. The soap is again 
 salted and boiled clear like other hard 
 soaps. Draw the fire, and let the soap 
 stand in the covered boiler for 3 days 
 to let the impurities and under-lye set- 
 tle. Uncover the boiler and remove 
 the congealed crust, and ladle the clear 
 soap into another boiler, and keep up 
 the fire until a thick mass is formed, 
 which is then ladled into frames of 
 1000 pounds capacity and thoroughly 
 racked until nearly cold, and 36 pounds 
 of dissolved crystallized soda stirred 
 into each frame and the soap becomes 
 solid. The soda solution consists of 
 150 pounds of crystallized soda in 5 
 pounds of hot water. The racking of 
 the soap, after the soda has been added, 
 must be continued as long as it is pos- 
 sible to do so, as the quality of the 
 soap depends much on this. Soap 
 which can be cut after 48 hours is very 
 smooth and of a reddish-brown color. 
 
328 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 If a lighter-colored soap is desired 
 the crude palm oil is omitted, and 200 
 pounds of tallow and light rosin used 
 instead. The pasty lye is freed from 
 salt and used for the next boiling. 
 
 American Soaps. 1. Extra Soaps. 
 Basis: Tallow 45 parts, kitchen soap- 
 fat 5 parts, rosin 25 parts. 
 
 Filling: To every 500 parts of fin- 
 ished soap: Saponified rosin 50 parts, 
 crystallized soda-lye of 37 to 38 
 Beaume (lukewarm) 25 parts, water- 
 glass 50 parts, carbonate of potash-lye 
 of 40 B. (lukewarm) 5 parts, infusorial 
 earth, talc, or marble dust 45 to 50 
 parts. 
 
 2. Superior Soaps. Basis: Tallow 
 12i parts, kitchen soap-fat and rosin 
 each 37i parts. 
 
 Filling: To every 500 parts of fin- 
 ished soap : Saponified rosin and soda- 
 lye of 37 to 38 B. each 50 parts, water- 
 glass 90 parts, carbonate of potash-lye 
 7i parts, infusorial earth, talc, or mar- 
 ble dust 60 parts. 
 
 3. Old English Soap. Basis: Tal- 
 low and kitchen fat each 25 parts, 
 rosin 30 parts. 
 
 Filling: To every 500 parts of fin- 
 ished soap: Saponified rosin 20 parts, 
 soda-lye of 37 to 38 B. 28 parts, water- 
 
 4. First Premium Soap. Basis : Tal- 
 low 12i parts, kitchen fat and rosin 
 each 37 i parts. 
 
 Filling : To every 500 parts of fin- 
 ished soap: Saponified rosin 75 parts, 
 soda-lye of 37 to 38 B. 60 parts, water- 
 glass 110 parts, potash-lye 15 parts, 
 infusorial earth, talc, or marble dust 
 120 parts. 
 
 These rosin soaps are at first of a 
 light-yellow color, but, on account of 
 the large percentage of rosin, become 
 gradually very dark and have a strong 
 odor of rosin. Clothes washed with 
 such soaps, when kept in a dark room, 
 become yellow, and the hands, after 
 using these soaps, feel rough. But the 
 soaps, by reason of their cheapness, are 
 much liked. They are pressed into 
 bars weighing about 1 pound, which 
 are sold at 4 or 5 cents. 
 
 Besides these cheap rosin soaps 
 another soap known as "Silex soap " is 
 manufactured. It is nothing but an 
 ordinary tallow soap mixed by means 
 of a stirring apparatus with 10 times its 
 
 weight of infusorial earth, and pressed 
 into cakes weighing 1 pound each. 
 It is used for cleansing metals, glass, 
 etc. 
 
 Brown Rosin Soap in the Cold Way. 
 Melt together cocoanut oil 16 pounds, 
 crude pal m oil 4 pounds, rosin 20 pounds, 
 and compound the mixture at a tem- 
 perature of 155 F. with 24 pounds of 
 soda-lye of 35 B. In case a thorough 
 combination should not be formed 
 cover the mixing vessel with cloths, 
 and the compound will in a short time 
 become hot. When this is the case 
 stir it thoroughly, and when it appears 
 to be intimately combined stir in 3 to 4 
 pounds of a solution of potash of 30 
 B., and then pour the paste, which 
 should be uniform and quite thickly 
 fluid, into the frame. Soap thus pre- 
 pared is pliant and washes excellently. 
 
 Cocoanut-oil Soap in the Cold Way, 
 100 Pounds of Oil yielding about 200 
 to 230 Pounds of Soap. Cocoanut oil, 
 besides its other good qualities in com- 
 parison with other fais used in the 
 manufacture of soap, possesses the pecu- 
 liai'ity of fixing large quantities of 
 water and saponifying only with con 
 centrated lye, differing from tallovr 
 which is difficult to saponify with 
 strong lyes. With weak lyes it forms 
 no combination whatever, but floats as 
 a clear fat over the lye, and actual 
 saponification can only be accomplished 
 by long continued boiling. This last 
 peculiarity may have been the cause 
 of recourse being had to cold saponifica- 
 tion. In the following we give a few 
 practical processes, thoroughly tested, 
 by vyhich good cocoanut-oil soaps are 
 obtained at a comparatively low price. 
 
 1. Heat 100 pounds of cocoanut oil 
 to 100 F. and add, with constant 
 stirring, 120 pounds of lye of 27 B. 
 The combination is formed as soon as 
 the lye has become thoroughly caustic. 
 Should this not be the case continue 
 the stirring for a short time, or add fine 
 shavings of soap, if such are on hand , 
 cover the boiler carefully and let it 
 stand quietly for a few hours. Then 
 stir in 15 to 20 pounds of salt-water of 
 18 B., perfume with oils of lavender, 
 thyme, and cumin each 3i ounces, and 
 pour the soap into the frame (mould). 
 Yield: Two hundred to 300 pounds 
 from 100 pounds of oil. The soap may 
 
SOAPS. 
 
 329 
 
 be colored or marbled in the ordinary 
 way. 
 
 2. Another process is as follows: 
 Melt 100 pounds of cocoanut oil, dis- 
 solve in it 5 pounds of potato starch, 
 and, when the oil is cooled off to 97.5 
 to 100 F., rake in 100 pounds of soda- 
 lye of 30 B. and, when the combina- 
 tion is complete, fill with 20 pounds of 
 solution of potash of 28 B. 
 
 3. A third process is as follows : Melt 
 100 pounds of cocoanut oil and heat to 
 100 F., then add, with vigorous stir- 
 ring, 85 pounds of lye of 32 B. and, 
 when the combination is complete, 10 
 pounds of water-glass together with 5 
 to 6 pounds of a solution of potash of 
 28 to 30 B., and finally pour the 
 soap in the frame (mould). 
 
 Cold Water Soap. By reason of this 
 soap being generally demanded of a 
 brown color it is prepared from cheap 
 dark fats, as bone fat, dark tallow, etc., 
 in the proportion of 100 pounds of fat 
 to 60 pounds of rosin. The soap is 
 boiled in exactly the same manner as 
 other rosin soap, and is allowed to 
 stand in the boiler 2 to 3 days. If it 
 should be ladled out at once the soap j 
 would be scarcely fit for use, as, on j 
 account of the high percentage of rosin, ' 
 it would be impossible to obtain it in ! 
 a solid form. For this reason, before | 
 it is poured into the frame, it is hardened j 
 with a filling prepared in the follow- | 
 ing manner: One hundred pounds of 
 crystallized soda and 50 of Glauber's 
 salts are melted over a fire without an 
 addition of water ; to this is added 25 
 pounds of water-glass of 75 B., and then 
 12 hundredweight of soap are raked 
 into the mixture. The soap immedi- 
 ately becomes entirely stiff and smooth, 
 and, after raking for \ hour, may be 
 brought into the frame (mould), where 
 the raking is continued for a short 
 time. It is generally perfumed with 
 essence of mirbane (nitro-benzol). 
 
 Elaine Soap. Various kinds of soap 
 are sold under this name. They have 
 the appearance of elaine soap, but do 
 not contain one grain of elaine. 
 
 A really good soap, actua 1 ly deserving 
 the name on account of its containing 
 elaine, is obtained according to the fol- 
 lowing receipt: Nine hundred pounds 
 of palm oil are saponified with 1130 
 pounds of lye of 25 B, When the 
 
 paste is clear add 360 pounds each of 
 half-bleached palm-oil and elaine, then 
 boil the soap clear and let it stand 
 covered 3 to 4 hours. The soap is then 
 drawn off into the settling or heating 
 boiler, which is warmed by flues from 
 the boiling pan, so that the soap is kept 
 warm and the lye can thoroughly settle. 
 It remains here for 24 to 36 hours, is 
 then poured into iron frames (moulds) 
 and raked until cold. 
 
 Floating Soap. Four hundred and 
 twenty pounds of cocoanut oil, 30 
 pounds of bleached palm-oil, 50 pounds 
 of rosin, 100 pounds of olive oil, and 
 120 pounds of tallow are first boiled 
 with weak lye, the strength of which is 
 gradually increased to 40 B., and the 
 weight of which corresponds to 360 
 pounds. As soon as the paste is formed 
 add 400 pounds of flea-bane seed ( Mew en. 
 psyllii), and then boil until the finished 
 soap detaches itself from the boiler in 
 the form of a dough. The compound 
 is then perfumed and, shortly before 
 pouring out, some pulverized carbonate 
 of sodium added. The carbonic acid set 
 free permeates the soap and causes the 
 formation of empty spaces, thereby 
 lessening the specific gravity and giv- 
 ing the soap the quality of floating on 
 water. 
 
 Molasses Soap. One hundred parts 
 of molasses are heated in a boiler pro- 
 vided with closed serpentine steam- 
 pipes, and 28 parts of ordinary calcined 
 soda are then added under constant 
 stirring. As soon as solution is com- 
 plete, 100 parts of oleic acid are care- 
 fully added, so that the carbonic acid 
 of the soda, which is liberated, first 
 escapes. When all the oleic acid has 
 been added, the compound is for a short 
 time heated to the boiling point. The 
 process is very quick, it being possible 
 to produce 20,000 pounds of soap in 2 
 hours. One hundred parts of molasses 
 yield 210 to 225 parts of soap, which, 
 according to the time of boiling, is either 
 half-hard or entirely hard. 
 
 The process for soft soap is the same, 
 only potash being used instead of soda. 
 For ordinary soft soap take 100 parts 
 of molasses/ 100 of oleic acid, JO of pot- 
 ash, 10 of soda, and 50 of water. The 
 yield will be about 260 parts of soap. 
 
 Cocoanut Oil and Molasses Sonp is 
 obtained by dissolving caustic soda ift 
 
330 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 hot molasses and adding cocoanut oil 
 heated to 167 F. One hundred parts 
 each of molasses and eocoanut oil yield 
 400 parts of very good hard soap. The 
 same kind of soap is obtained by taking 
 100 parts of cocoanut oil, 36 o'f caustic 
 soda-lye of 36 B., and 50 of molasses, 
 whereby the cocoanut oil must also be 
 heated to 167 F. When other kinds of 
 fat are used a longer time is required 
 for boiling. 
 
 Oranienburg Soap. The quantity 
 and strength of the lye required in the 
 manufacture of this soap depend on the 
 fats used ; for those of animal origin, as 
 bone-fat, tallow, etc., it may be from 15 
 to 18 B., but more concentrated lye, 
 from 24 to 28 B. strong, is required for 
 the saponification of palm oil. By 
 reason of a soap of yellowish color 
 being in demand some rosin or .crude 
 palm oil is added. 
 
 The following receipts furnish Oran- 
 ienburg soap of excellent quality and 
 at a comparatively low cost : 
 
 Bone-fat . . . 
 Tallow . . . 
 Palm oil . . . 
 Cotton-seed oil . 
 Crude palm oil 
 Rosin .... 
 
 I. 
 
 II. 
 
 III. 
 
 IV. 
 
 Ibs. 
 
 Ibs. 
 
 Ibs. 
 
 Ibs. 
 
 400 
 800 
 1000 
 200 
 100 
 400 
 
 800 
 400 
 1000 
 100 
 250 
 350 
 
 2000 
 
 400 
 300 
 
 2000 
 300 
 300 
 400 
 
 For Nos. I. and II. saponification can 
 begin with lye of 24 B., while Nos. 
 III. and IV. are saponified with a con- 
 centrated lye of 26 B. The boiling 
 process is the same for all. The fats are 
 saponified in the usual manner and the 
 soap separated with hot salt-water. It 
 is then allowed to stand in the boiler 
 24 hours for the paste to settle thor- 
 oughly. 
 
 Process of Preparing all Kinds of 
 Perfectly Neutral Soaps. The fats to 
 be saponified are placed in a cylindri- 
 cal vessel surrounded with a jacket and 
 provided with a stirring apparatus. 
 Water, heated by steam to the melting 
 point of the fat, circulates between the 
 jacket and the cylinder. A solution 
 of soap, 20 per cent, of fat, or any other 
 fluid capable of promoting an emulsion, 
 is then added,and saponification quickly 
 
 accomplished with caustic lye. To 
 avoid cooling, the apparatus must be 
 kept covered during the saponifying 
 process, and the heat formed by the 
 chemical process exhausted as much as 
 possible. The under-lye contains only 
 caustic soda and glycerine iVee from 
 chlorine and has a concentration of 5 
 to 10 B. 
 
 Water-glass Soap. Both hard and 
 soft soaps are brought into commerce. 
 Hard Water-glass Soap is prepared as 
 follows : One hundred pounds of cocoa- 
 nut oil are saponified with 200 pounds 
 of soda-lye of 20 B., and boiled until 
 all froth has disappeared. The soap is 
 then hardened by gradually scattering 
 calcined soda over it until a sample as 
 large as a silver dollar congeals with a 
 bluish border. In 600 pounds of soda 
 water-glass of 36 to 38 B. are in the 
 meanwhile placed in readiness. Eigh- 
 teen to 20 pounds of crude glycerine 
 mixed with 50 pounds of soda-lye of 
 20 B. are added to the soap while it is 
 gently boiling, and then gradually the 
 water-glass, testing the soap from time 
 to time, until all has been added. 
 Should the soap be still too soft, it is 
 hardened with some calcined soda 
 until a sample on congealing shows the 
 above-mentioned bluish border, when 
 the soap will be hard enough. 
 
 Soft Water-glass Soap is prepared as 
 follows : One hundred pounds of co- 
 coanut oil are saponified with 200 
 pounds of soda-lye of 20 B., and the 
 paste boiled clear. Six hundred pounds 
 of potash water-glass are then gradually 
 added, and finally potash-lye of 20 B. 
 to give it the consistency of ordinary 
 soft soap. 
 
 Both kinds of soap are at present 
 successfully used in dyeing, wool-wash- 
 ing, cotton-printing, and for other pur- 
 poses. 
 
 Sand Soap. Fifty pounds of cocoa- 
 nut oil are saponified in the ordinary 
 way with about 100 pounds of soda-lye 
 of 20 B., shortened with salt, hardened 
 with calcined soda, covered while hot, 
 and allowed to stand quietly in the 
 boiler for several hours. When the 
 soap is sufficiently cooled off so that it 
 can be brought into the frame, remove 
 the scum before the soap is poured out. 
 Fifty pounds of white and perfectly 
 dry sand are then added in the fol- 
 
SOAPS. 
 
 331 
 
 lowing manner : While one work- 
 man rakes the soap with a rake 
 nearly as wide as the frame so that it 
 can be conveniently handled without 
 touching the sides of the frame, another 
 sifts the sand into the soap. It is gen- 
 erally perfumed with oil of lavender 3 
 ounces, oil of thyme 2i ounces, and oil 
 of cumin 1} ounces. 
 
 The soap must be raked until it is 
 stiff and begins to congeal. 
 
 Toilet and Medicated Soaps. Bitter 
 Almond Soap in the Cold Way. 
 Cocoanut oil 1750 parts and lard 750 
 parts are saponified with 1250 parts of 
 caustic soda-lve of 40 B., 17 parts of 
 oil of bitter almonds, and 21 parts of 
 oil of bergamot. 
 
 Bouquet Soap. Tallow 1000 parts, 
 cocoanut oil 2000 parts, crude palm-oil 
 100 parts, pulverized orris root 250 
 parts, soda-lye of 40 B. 1250 parts, 
 potash-lye of 40 B. 100 parts, musk & 
 part. Perfume: Sandal-wood oil 2 
 parts, oils of bergamot 8 parts, gerani- 
 um 4 parts, lavender 5 parts, and lemon 
 3 parts. 
 
 Bouquet Soap in the Cold Way. Co- 
 coanut oil 2000 parts are saponified with 
 1000 parts of caustic soda-lye of 40 B. 
 Perfumed with oils of bergaraot 12 parts, 
 sassafras 5 parts, cloves 2 parts, and 
 sage li parts. The soap is colored 
 dark brown. 
 
 Camphor Soap. Good tallow soap 
 1500 parts, rosemary oil 40 parts, oil of 
 lavender 5 parts, and camphor 60 parts. 
 The camphor is first rubbed fine and 
 mixed with the perfume. 
 
 Camphor Soap No. II. This soap is 
 an excellent remedy for chilblains and 
 frosted limbs. One thousand parts of 
 cocoauut oil are saponified with 500 
 parts of caustic soda-lye of 40 B., and 
 when the combination is complete stir 
 in a solution of 75 parts of camphor 
 dissolved in 100 parts of alcohol and 
 50 parts of water. 
 
 Camphor and Sulphur Soap. Cocoa- 
 nut oil 1200 parts, soda-lye of 38 B. 
 600 parts, potassium sulphate 100 parts 
 dissolved in water 50 parts, and 16 
 parts of camphor dissolved in the 
 melted cocoanut oil. 
 
 Ear/le So-tp (Brown}. Cocoanut oil 
 7000 parts, lard 30. K) parts, soda-lye of 
 60 B. 5000 parts. The soap is per- 
 
 fumed with essence of mirbane 16 parts, 
 oils of bergamot 12 parts and cloves 7 
 parts, and colored with 14 parts of bril- 
 liant brown. 
 
 Family Soap. Cocoanut oil 2500 
 parts, soda-lye of 30 B. 2000 parts. 
 The soap is perfumed with oils of ber- 
 gamot and cassia each 4 parts, oils of 
 sassafras and lemon each 2 parts. 
 
 Gall Soap. One hundred and fifty 
 parts of beef-gall are stirred into 2500 
 parts of melted cocoanut oil, and the 
 latter then saponified in the cold way 
 with 1200 parts of soda-lye of 38 B. 
 The soap is colored with 33 parts of 
 ultramarine green, and perfumed with 
 7i parts each of oils of lavender and 
 cumin. 
 
 Glycerine Soap (Brilliant and 
 Transparent}. Water 1050 parts, loaf 
 sugar 3000 parts, glycerine 5700 parts, 
 castor oil 4800 parts, cocoanut oil and 
 tallow each 6650 parts, lye of 40 B. 
 8300 parts, alcohol 3500 parts, and per- 
 fume 150 parts. 
 
 A double boiler heated with steam 
 and provided with a stirring apparatus 
 is used. After the ingredients have 
 been heated, add the alcohol, place the 
 cover on the boiler, and put the stirring 
 apparatus in motion. As soon as the 
 mass is thoroughly saponified shut off 
 the steam and stop the stirring appa- 
 ratus ; let the soap stand quietly 6 to 8 
 hours, then add the perfume and, when 
 cooled off to 130 or 133 F., pour the 
 soap into the frame, and let it congeal 
 as quickly as possible. The soap be- 
 comes brilliant. As the price of glyc- 
 erine is rather high at present it might 
 be advisable to use less glycerine, and 
 substitute sugar-water. It seerns also 
 more advisable to saponify the fats first, 
 and then add the sugar-water, glyc- 
 erine, etc., as otherwise the soap might 
 easily acquire a dark color. 
 
 Glycerine Soap (Transparent}. Heat 
 cocoanut oil 1200 parts, tallow 1000 
 parts, castor oil 600 parts, to 180 F., 
 and add glycerine 600 parts. Then add 
 1500 parts of hot caustic soda-lye and 
 200 parts of alcohol, and saponification 
 will take place. Cover the boiler to 
 prevent evaporation of the alcohol, and 
 fill the soap with 500 parts of solution 
 of sugar in the proportion of 1 part of 
 refined sugar dissolved in 2 of distilled 
 
332 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 water. Heat the solution to 167 F., 
 and stir it into the hot soap. 
 
 This soap is brilliant and compara- 
 tively cheap. 
 
 A substitute filling is now much used 
 in making glycerine soap. Prepare a 
 soap with 10 parts of cocoanut oil and 
 
 10 of hot caustic soda of 30 B., and 
 keep for use. Dissolve 2400 parts of 
 this ground soap in 7000 parts of clear 
 salt water of 13 to 15 B., add 500 
 parts of potash of 96 B., and heat the 
 whole to about 167 F. ; then add 1150 
 parts of 95 per cent, alcohol and cover 
 the boiler. The filling will become 
 clear, the impurities, etc., settling on the 
 bottom. It is kept in well-closed glass 
 balloons. To 5000 parts of soap 30 to 
 50 per cent, and frequently more of 
 this filling is used. 
 
 Iodide Soap is used for preparing 
 iodide baths, and is considered a rem- 
 edy for cutaneous diseases. It is pre- 
 pared in the cold way in the following 
 manner: Twenty pounds of cocoanut 
 
 011 are saponified with 10 pounds of 
 caustic lye of 40 B., and, when saponi- 
 fication is complete, a solution of 3 
 pounds of potassium iodide in 4 pounds 
 of water is added. 
 
 KummerfeldC s Soap for Frosted 
 Limbs. Of cocoanut oil 1200 parts, 
 flowers of sulphur 50 parts, camphor 
 dissolved in alcohol 50 parts, soda- 
 lye of 40 B. 800 parts, potash-lye of 
 40 B. 100 parts. 
 
 Lemon Soap. Cocoanut oil 1000 
 parts, caustic soda-lye of 40 B. 500 | 
 parts, oils of lemon and bergamot each ' 
 4 parts. The soap is colored pale 
 yellow. 
 
 Lily Soap. Wax soap 3000 parts, 
 starch 300 parts, oils of bergamot 16-V 
 parts, geranium 6V parts, cassia IV 
 parts, of sandal-wood I part, cedar oil, 
 tinctures of musk and tonka bean each 
 3V. parts, and tincture of storax 10 
 parts. 
 
 Mignonette Soap. Wax soap 2500 
 parts, starch 400 parts, mignonette Hi 
 parts, genuine Turkish rose oil H 
 parts, oil of geranium 5 parts, essence 
 of iris 3V, parts, oil of bitter almonds 2V 
 parts, tincture of musk 5 parts, and 
 tincture of storax 10 parts. 
 
 Musk Soap in the Cold Way. Cocoa- 
 nut oil 2000 parts, caustic soda-lye of 
 40 B. 1000 parts, tincture of musk 10 
 
 parts, oil of bergamot 6 parts, oil of 
 lemon 3V, parts. Color the soap light 
 brown. 
 
 Orange Soap. Good white tallow 
 soap 600 parts, oils of neroli 1 part, 
 bergamot | part, orange 2 parts, azalea 
 
 1 part, petit-grain 2 parts, lemon 1 part, 
 geranium 2 parts, essence of Portugal 1 
 part, infusion of civet 2 parts, and in- 
 fusion of musk 1 part. 
 
 Patchouli Soap. Good white tallow 
 soap 1250 parts, oil of patchouli 12i 
 parts, and oil of sandal-wood 2 parts. 
 
 Pumice Soap (Prime) in the Cold 
 Way. Cocoanut oil 2000 parts and lye 
 of 40 B. 1000 parts are saponified in 
 the ordinary way. Five hundred parts 
 of pumice-stone, finely pulverized, are 
 then stirred in, the soap ladled into the 
 frame and perfumed with oils of cassia 
 
 2 parts, bergamot 8 parts, cloves 1 part, 
 lavender 1 part. 
 
 Rose Soap. Cocoanut oil 2000 parts, 
 caustic soda-lye of 40 B. 1000 parts, 
 oils of geranium and bergamot each 8 
 parts, rose oil i part, tincture of musk 
 H parts. 
 
 Savon de Riz. Wax soap 2700 parts, 
 starch 400 parts, oil of geranium 3 
 parts, essence of Portugal and oil of 
 bergamot each 5 parts, essence of mir- 
 bane 3 parts, tincture of benzoin, 
 colored white or red, I part, cinnabar 8 
 parts. 
 
 Savon Ess : Bouquet. Wax soap 2500 
 parts, iris powder 200 parts, starch 300 
 parts, oils of geranium 7V parts, berga- 
 mot 15 parts, cinnamon 12- l : parts 
 tincture of storax 9 parts, tincture of 
 musk 3 parts, sugar color for coloring 
 12i parts. 
 
 Savon Orange. Good white tallow 
 soap 3000 parts, scraps of cocoanut oil 
 soap 750 parts, flour 250 parts, oils of 
 neroli, orange, and petit-grain each 10 
 parts, bergamot 5 parts, essences of 
 lemon 5 parts, geranium 10 parts, 
 American Portugal 5 parts, infusion of 
 civet 10 parts, and infusion of musk 5 
 parts. 
 
 Soap Or ernes. The soft toilet soaps 
 are mostly prepared from lard and 
 caustic potash-lye of 30 B. Melt 
 the lard over a water-bath, and stir in 
 hot lye in a thin stream; then work the 
 mass with a pestle to a pearl tint, which 
 will be improved in appearance by 
 using 3 parts of potash-lye and 1 part 
 
SOAPS. 
 
 333 
 
 of socla-lye. The pigment and perfume 
 dissolved in alcohol are added while 
 Working the soap. The soap cremes, 
 by reason of their convenient applica- 
 tion, are much in demand. 
 
 Crime D'Amandes Ameres. Lard 
 600 parts, caustic potash-lye of 38 B. 
 250 parts, and caustic soda-lye of 38 
 B. 50 parts. Perfume : oils* of bitter 
 almonds 3 parts and bergainot i part. 
 
 Crime a la Hose. Lard 600 parts, 
 caustic potash-lye of 38 B. 250 parts, 
 aud caustic soda-lye of 38 B. 50 parts. 
 Perfume : oils of hergamot 3 parts and 
 geranium li parts. 
 
 Besides soap cremes transparent and 
 white soft soaps are manufactured from 
 lard, olive oil, tallow, etc. They are 
 boiled with potash-lye and used as 
 toilette and shaving soaps. 
 
 Sulphur Soap. Cocoanut oil 1000 
 parts is saponified with 500 parts of 
 caustic lye of 40 B. and 75 parts of 
 flowers of sulphur stirred in. 
 
 Swiss Herb Soap. Melt together 
 over a water-bath 500 parts each of 
 best quality of cocoanut oil and tallow, 
 add 150 parts of glycerine of 28 B., 
 200 parts of refined sugar dissolved in 
 225 parts of water ; mix 375 parts of 96 
 per cent, alcohol with 550 parts of soda- 
 lye, and add to the solution,which is then 
 heated as quickly as possible to 190 
 F. with constant stirring. It is then 
 taken from the water-bath, and, under 
 constant stirring, allowed to cool off to 
 144^, F. The soap is now colored with 
 i to J part of uranium green pre- 
 viously dissolved in alcohol or boiling 
 water, and perfumed with 2i parts each 
 of oils of bergamot and peppermint, and 
 11 each of oils of aniseed and lavender. 
 It is finally filtered through gauze into 
 a frame of sheet-zinc, which is lightly 
 covered. 
 
 Tannin Soap. Saponify 900 parts 
 of cocoanut oil with 450 parts of soda- 
 lye of 40 B., and add 25 parts of tan- 
 nin previously dissolved in alcohol. 
 The soap is perfumed with Peruvian 
 balsam 3 parts,, oils of cassia and cloves 
 each 1 part. 
 
 Tar Soap. I. Melt together 20 parts 
 of cocoanut oil and 3 parts tar, and 
 saponify in the ordinary manner with 
 25" parts caustic lye of" 40 B. This 
 soap is used for cutaneous diseases. 
 
 II. Scraps of cocoanut oil soap can 
 
 be utilized by dissolving them in solu- 
 tion of salt of 10 B., and stirring about 
 30 parts of it with 3 parts of coal tar. 
 
 III. Cocoanut oil 350 parts, lye of 
 40 B. 180 parts, good wood tar stirred 
 into the melted cocoanut oil 30 parts. 
 
 Vaseline Soap, Cocoanut oil 200 
 parts, vaseline 25 parts, lye of 40 B. 95 
 parts, and water 5 parts. 
 
 Violet (Prime). Cocoanut oil best 
 quality 500 parts, soda-lye of 38 B. 
 240 parts, and potash-lye of 38 B. 10 
 parts. The soap is perfumed with 10 
 parts of orris root and 5 parts of liquid 
 storax stirred into the fat; and oils of 
 cassia, sassafras, and bergamot each 
 i part, oil of lavender J part, Peruvian 
 balsam part, oil of orange fs part, oil 
 of rose A, essence of musk i part, 
 and colored with part of brilliant 
 brown previously dissolved in boiling 
 water. 
 
 Violet Soap. I. Tallow 100 parts, 
 cocoanut oil 140 parts, pulverized orris 
 root 30 parts, pulverized orange peel 
 ij parts, and storax 2i parts. The 
 storax is dissolved with constant stir- 
 ring in 10 parts of the cocoanut oil 
 over a moderate fire, poured through 
 gauze, and added to the fat. One- 
 thirtieth part of musk is then tritu- 
 rated with some lye and water, and the 
 whole saponified with 120 parts of soda- 
 lye of 38 per cent., and perfumed with 
 1 parts of oil of bergamot, 2 parts of 
 oil of lavender, li parts of Peruvian 
 balsam, and & part of oil of cassia, and 
 colored with 1 part of cinnabar. 
 
 Violet Soap. II. Melt together 315 
 parts of cocoanut oil and 150 parts of 
 crude palm oil, cool off to 108 F., 
 pour through gauze and color with f 
 part of cinnabar. Then take 20 parts 
 of pulverized orris root, 2 parts of 
 pulverized orange peel, and 1J parts 
 of pulverized benzoin, pass the whole 
 through a fine sieve, and add it, with 
 constant stirring, to the fat. When 
 all the powder is dissolved, saponifica- 
 tion is accomplished with 170 parts 
 of soda-lye of 38 B., and the soap 
 perfumed with oils of lavender and 
 bergamot each part, oils of cassia and 
 cloves each * part, and tincture of 
 musk part. The soap does not need 
 coloring, as it is naturally of a beauti- 
 ful brown. 
 
 White Alabaster Soap. Stearine 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 65 parts, cocoanut oil best quality 110 
 parts, glycerine 65 parts, caustic soda- 
 lye of 38 to 39 B. 90 parts, alcohol 
 of 96 per cent. 130 parts. 
 
 White Windsor Soap. Good white 
 tallow soap 200 parts, oils of lavender 
 i part, cassia \ part, neroli \ part, 
 essence of Portugal i part, and oil of 
 cinnamon & part. 
 
 Shaving Soap in the Cold Way. 
 Melt together 250 parts of tallow, 125 
 parts of cocoanut oil and 25 parts of 
 lard, and allow the mixture to cool 
 off to 115 F ; then add 275 parts of 
 caustic soda-lye of 30 B. and 75 parts 
 of caustic potash-lye, and perfume the 
 soap with 1 part of oil of lavender 
 and i part each of oils of thyme and 
 cumin. 
 
 Soap for Washing Silk Goods. Melt 
 in a suitable boiler 1500 parts of soap 
 converted into fine shavings, a like 
 quantity of beef-gall, 165 parts of 
 honey, 150 parts of pulverized sugar, 
 and 25 parts of Venetian turpentine, 
 and pour the mass, while yet hot, into 
 a mould previously lined with a cloth 
 dipped in cold water. The soap will 
 become hard in the course of 24 hours 
 and ready for washing silk goods. 
 
 To Give a Gloss to the Surface 
 of Toilet Soaps they are generally 
 scraped, dipped into dilute lye, and, 
 when dry, brushed. This rather 
 tedious labor can, according to Depuis, 
 be done by steam. The soap, before 
 or after drying, is submitted to a cur- 
 rent of steam, which may be perfumed 
 before reaching the soap by passing 
 through a cloth impregnated with the 
 perfume. The action of the steam 
 effects at once an alteration in the 
 surface of the cakes or bars of soap, 
 forming a salt of varying composition 
 according to the fats used. By uni- 
 formly distributing this salt upon the 
 surface of the soap with a moist linen 
 cloth, all the pores and irregularities 
 of surface are closed, and, when dry, 
 forms a very glossy coating which is 
 not injured even in the moulding 
 press. 
 
 New Process of Treating Fats. By 
 this process the tar-like substances 
 formed in saponification with sul- 
 phuric acid are, by a simple method, 
 removed, and complete decomposition 
 is accomplished by an addition of di- 
 
 lute sulphuric acid, and boiling under 
 pressure in a closed apparatus. The 
 fat is completely decomposed, and the 
 glycerine obtained as a clear fluid. 
 We may divide the process into 4 
 distinct operations: 1, treating the fat 
 with concentrated sulphuric acid with 
 development of sulphurous acid; 2, 
 removing the tar-like substances; 3, 
 decomposition with dilute sulphuric 
 acid in a closed vessel under a pressure 
 of 3 to 4 atmospheres; and, 4, treating 
 the sebates in the cold and warm press. 
 
 1st Operation. The fats are heated 
 in a vessel lined with lead to 250 to 
 300 F., fresh fats requiring a higher 
 temperature than old stock. Sulphuric 
 acid in the proportion of 1 to 1.5 parts 
 to 100 parts of fat is then added with 
 constant stirring, and the stirring con- 
 tinued until the temperature is reduced 
 to 212 F. This operation prepares the 
 fats for decomposition. The mass be- 
 comes black under development of sul- 
 phurous acid, by reason of which 
 arrangements must be made for the 
 protection of the workmen against the 
 injurious effects of the acid. The fat, 
 when the temperature is reduced to 
 212 F., is brought into another vessel. 
 
 2d Operation. To 100 parts of fat 
 treated with concentrated sulphuric 
 acid add 50 parts of hot water. The 
 compound is thoroughly agitated and 
 then allowed to settle, whereby the 
 greatest part of the tar-like bodies is 
 dissolved. The fat is then skimmed off 
 and brought into another pan. To 
 every 100 parts of it 50 parts of water 
 are added ; it is boiled for a short time 
 and then again allowed to settle for a 
 few hours. If the sebacic acids are to 
 be distilled, two washings are sufficient, 
 but if the acids are to be worked up 
 without distilling, it is best to wash a 
 third time. The fat will then be en- 
 tirely cleansed from all tar-like sub- 
 stances originated in the first operation. 
 
 3d Operation. The purified fat is 
 brought into a vat lined with lead, and, 
 according to the condition of the fat, 3 
 to 4 per cent, of concentrated sulphuric 
 acid previously diluted with double its 
 quantity of water is added. The vessel 
 is then closed, and the fat boiled by in- 
 troduction of steam under a pressure 
 of 3 to 4 atmospheres for 4 to 5 hours, 
 which completes the decomposition. 
 
SOAPS. 
 
 335 
 
 The glycerine sulphuric acid, by reason 
 of the three washings in the second op- 
 eration, is entirely clear and almost 
 colorless; it is neutralized with lime 
 and evaporated. One hundred parts of 
 tallow yield by this process 7 parts of 
 glycerine in no respect inferior to that 
 obtained by lime-saponificatioii. If the 
 sebacic acids are to be distilled it 
 suffices to treat them with boiling 
 water, but if they are to be pressed un- 
 distilled they must be washed with 
 boiling water to which 1 per cent, of 
 sulphuric acid has been added. All that 
 remains then is cold and warm pressing. 
 
 Balling's Method of Preparing 
 Caustic Soda-lye. Dissolve by intro- 
 ducing steam 100 parts of calcined 
 soda of 80 to 90 per cent, in 600 of clear 
 water; then add 60 to 70 parts of 
 burned lime which, on becoming slaked 
 in the hot fluid, raises the temperature. 
 Carbonate of calcium is formed which 
 settles in a short time, and the clear 
 lye is then drawn off. The carbonate 
 o"f calcium is vyashed with water, this 
 wash water being afterwards used in 
 preparing the caustic soda-lye, giving 
 a product of 15 to 16 B. ; 100 parts of 
 this lye will saponify 400 parts of tallow. 
 
 The caustic lye thus obtained is at 
 once, and without being concentrated 
 by evaporation, used for boiling soap. 
 It is one of the principal requisites that 
 only fresh caustic lye should be used in 
 boiling soap. The lye is first placed in 
 the boiler and then the tallow. The 
 latter melts, covering the surface of the 
 lye and preventing the access of air to 
 it, and the saponitication of the fat is 
 hastened by the quicker boiling of the 
 lye. 
 
 By this process but very little under- 
 lye is obtained. This contains the for- 
 eign constituents of the soda, common 
 salt, and Glauber's salt, on which the 
 separation of the soap from the under- 
 lye depends. Salting is required only 
 for potash soaps. 
 
 The soap is allowed to remain quietly 
 in the boiler for i hour to allow the 
 under-lye to separate. It is then 
 poured into the frame and when cold 
 divided into bars. 
 
 The under-lye obtained is of a dark 
 brown color aiid contains, besides com- 
 mon salt and Glauber's salt, some glyc- 
 erine. When a considerable quantity 
 
 has been collected, it is boiled down, 
 whereby a part separates as black soap. 
 The dry residue is calcined and fur- 
 nishes a black substance which, after 
 lixiviation, gives a colorless lye. By 
 evaporating the latter a white sub- 
 stance containing considerable quan- 
 tities of soda is obtained, which on 
 being dissolved and made caustic with 
 lime can be again used as lye. 
 
 TUNNERMANN'S Table giving the Per- 
 centage of Soda in a Soda-lye at 
 59 F. 
 
 Per cent. 
 
 Specific 
 
 Per cent. 
 
 Specific 
 
 of soda. 
 
 gravity. 
 
 of soda. 
 
 gravity. 
 
 0.302 
 
 1.0040 
 
 15.714 
 
 1.2453 
 
 0.604 
 
 1.0081 
 
 16.319 
 
 1.2515 
 
 1.209 
 
 1.0163 
 
 16.923 
 
 1.2578 
 
 1.813 
 
 1.0246 
 
 17.528 
 
 1.2642 . 
 
 2.418 
 
 1.0330 
 
 18.132 
 
 1.2708 
 
 3.022 
 
 1.0414 
 
 18.730 
 
 1.2775 
 
 3.626 
 
 1.0500 
 
 19,341 
 
 1.2843 
 
 4.231 
 
 1.0587 
 
 19.945 
 
 1.2912 
 
 4.835 
 
 1.0675 
 
 20.550 
 
 1.-/982 
 
 5.440 
 
 1.0764 
 
 21.154 
 
 1.3053 
 
 6.044 
 
 1.0855 
 
 21.758 
 
 1.3125 
 
 6.648 
 
 1.0948 
 
 21.894 
 
 1.3143 
 
 7.253 
 
 1.1042 
 
 22.363 
 
 13198 
 
 7.857 
 
 1.1137 
 
 22.967 
 
 1.3273 
 
 8.462 
 
 1.1233 
 
 23.572 
 
 1.3:549 
 
 9.066 
 
 1.1330 
 
 24.176 
 
 1.3426 
 
 9.670 
 
 1.1428 
 
 24.780 
 
 1.3505 
 
 10.275 
 
 1.1628 
 
 25.385 
 
 1.3586 
 
 10.879 
 
 1.1630 
 
 25.989 
 
 1.3668 
 
 11.484 
 
 1.1734 
 
 2H.594 
 
 1.3751 
 
 12.088 
 
 1.1841 
 
 27.200 
 
 1.3836 
 
 12692 
 
 1.1948 
 
 27.802 
 
 1.3923 
 
 13297 
 
 12058 
 
 28.407 
 
 1.4011 
 
 13.901 
 
 1.2178 
 
 29.011 
 
 1.4101 
 
 14.506 
 
 1.2280 
 
 29.616 
 
 1.4193 
 
 15.110 
 
 1.2392 
 
 30.220 
 
 1.4285 
 
 TUNNERMANN'S Table showing the Per- 
 centage of Anhydrous Potash in Pot- 
 ash-lye at 59 F. 
 
 Per cent. 
 
 Specific 
 
 Per cent. 
 
 Specific 
 
 of potash. 
 
 gravity. 
 
 of potash. 
 
 gravity. 
 
 05658 
 
 1.0050 
 
 15.277 
 
 1.1568 
 
 1697 
 
 1.0153 
 
 16 408 
 
 11702 
 
 2.829 
 
 1.0200 
 
 17.540 
 
 1.1838 
 
 3.961 
 
 1.0369 
 
 18.671 
 
 1.1979 
 
 5002 
 
 1.0478 
 
 19.803 
 
 1 212:i 
 
 6.224 
 
 1.0589 
 
 20.935 
 
 1.2268 
 
 7.355 
 
 1.0703 
 
 21 500 
 
 1 2342 
 
 8.487 
 
 1 .0839 
 
 22.632 
 
 1.2493 
 
 9.619 
 
 1.0938 
 
 23.764 
 
 1.2648 
 
 10750 
 
 1.1059 
 
 24.895 
 
 1.2805 
 
 11.882 
 
 1 1182 
 
 26.027 
 
 1.2906 
 
 13.013 
 
 1.1318 
 
 27.1S8 
 
 1 3131 
 
 14.145 
 
 1 1437 
 
 28200 
 
 1.3300 
 
336 
 
 TECHNO-CIIEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 PRINZ'S PRACTICAL SOAP-BOILING TABLE. 
 
 Hard Soaps. 
 
 100 parts of the following fata 
 
 require for complete saponification, of soda: 
 
 ts 
 
 I 
 
 2a 
 
 Parts of 
 Na 0, HO 
 
 Parts of Na 
 OC0 2 
 
 of soda-lye of degrees 
 Beaume. 
 
 10 
 
 20 
 
 25 
 
 30 
 
 Tallow, suet, stearine, stearolic acid . . . 
 Free elaic acid oleic acid 
 
 .OK 
 $ 
 
 13% 
 
 u l A 
 
 15 
 
 17^ 
 
 S* 
 
 20 
 23 
 
 273 
 
 287 
 300 
 350 
 
 137 
 
 143 
 15O 
 
 175 
 
 105 
 110 
 115 
 135 
 
 80 
 84 
 89 
 103 
 
 Palm oil . . . 
 
 
 
 Soft Soaps. 
 
 require for complete saponification, of potash 
 
 100 parts of the following fats 
 
 Parts of 
 KaO 
 
 Parts of Ka 
 OHO 
 
 Parts of Ka 
 OC0 3 
 
 of potash-lye of degrees 
 
 Iti'itumc. 
 
 8 
 
 20 
 
 2G 
 
 35 
 
 72 
 75 
 
 7 
 90 
 
 Tallow, suet, stearine, stearolic acid . . . 
 Free elaic acid, oleic acid 
 
 16 
 
 16% 
 17^ 
 
 20^ 
 
 19^ 
 
 20 
 
 24}| 
 
 24 
 25 
 26 
 30^ 
 
 322 
 
 333 
 345 
 
 405 
 
 129 
 133 
 138 
 
 162 
 
 97 
 100 
 103 
 
 122 
 
 Palm oil 
 
 Cocoanut oil 
 
 
 Note to the Table. By multiplying the quantity of potash (column 3) required for saponifica- 
 tion with 3 and dividing the product by 7 the quantity of quicklime required for making the 
 lye caustic is obtained. 
 
 The lyes indicated by figures printed in bold type accomplish saponification best, those by 
 figures in medium type good, while the work is difficult with lyes indicated by figures in small 
 type. Of the 4 fats tallow is the most difficult to saponify, palm oil less so, while cocoauut oil 
 and elaic acid are the easiest to work. 
 
 SOLDERING AND SOLDERS. 
 
 Soldering is the process of uniting 
 the surfaces of metals by means of a 
 more fusible metal which", being melted 
 upon each surface, serves, partly by 
 chemical attraction and partly by cohe- 
 sive force, to bind chem together. There 
 is a great variety of solders, known by 
 the names of hard, soft, spelter^ silver, 
 white, gold, copper, tin, plumbers', and 
 many others. Nearly all the principal 
 metals take part in the composition of 
 solder, and most unmelted metals can 
 be jointed by one or other of these 
 solders. The metals to be united may 
 be either the same or dissimilar, but 
 
 the uniting metal must always have 
 an affinity for both. In all soldering 
 processes the following conditions must 
 be observed : 1. The surfaces to be 
 united must be bright, smooth, and 
 free from oxide ; 2. The contact of air 
 must be excluded during the soldering, 
 because it is apt to oxidize one or other 
 of the surfaces, and thus to prevent the 
 formation of an alloy at the points of 
 union. The most frequently employed 
 solder consists of tin and lead, and 
 melts somewhere between 329 and 
 563 F., according to the proportions 
 of the ingredients. A flux of borax, 
 etc., is often needed to insure the adhe- 
 siou of the solder to the two pieces of 
 
SOLDERING AND SOLDERS. 
 
 337 
 
 metal, and soldering irons of various 
 kinds are required. 
 
 Autogenous /Soldering takes place by 
 the fusion of the two edges of metais 
 themselves without interposing another 
 metallic alloy as a bond of union. 
 This is accomplished by directing a 
 jet of burning hydrogen gas from a 
 small movable beak upon the two sur- 
 faces or edges to be soldered together. 
 Metals thus joined are much less apt 
 to crack asunder at the line of union 
 by differences of temperature, flexi- 
 bility, etc., than when the common 
 soldering process is employed. This 
 method of soldering is especially of 
 great advantage in chemical works for 
 joining the edges of sheet lead for sul- 
 phuric acid chambers and concentra- 
 tion pans, because any solder contain- 
 ing tin would soon corrode. 
 
 Ordinary Soft Solder, an alloy of tin 
 and lead, is best adapted for most 
 metals, with the exception of cast-iron, 
 worked in the various industries. Its 
 composition varies very much, about 
 equal parts of the metals being gener- 
 ally taken; 2 parts of tin to 1 of lead 
 furnishing what is called " weak soft 
 solder," and 2 parts of lead to 1 of tin 
 "strong soft solder." A composition 
 consisting of: 
 
 Tin 1 part and lead 2 parts melts at 441.5 F. 
 " 1 " " " 1 part " " 371. 7 F. 
 ' 2 parts" " 1 " " " 340.2 F. 
 
 Bismuth Solder consists of 2 parts or 
 more, frequently even as much as 8 
 parts, of tin solder and 1 part of bis- 
 muth. It is more fusible than tin 
 solder, and for this reason is better 
 suited for soldering thin articles of 
 plumbiferous tin, but it breaks quite 
 easily and is therefore but little used 
 for other purposes. A composition 
 consisting of: 
 
 Tin 8 parte bismuth 1 part melts at 320 F. 
 " 6 " "1 " ' "..11F. 
 
 " 4 " "1 " " ' 2!t:5 F. 
 
 ' 2 " "1 " " " 230.7 F. 
 
 Darcel's Metal is an excellent soft 
 solder consisting of lead and bismuth 
 each 8 parts and tin 3 parts. 
 
 Hard Solders. Cast-iron may be 
 used as a solder for wrought-iron, but, 
 being very refractory and brittle, it is 
 but seldom used. 
 22 
 
 Copper is the best material of joining 
 iron to iron whether wrought or cast. 
 It unites the two surfaces very firmly 
 and, by reason of its natural ductility 
 and toughness, allows of the soldered 
 articles being bent into almost any 
 shape. 
 
 Brass Hard Solder consists of a 
 mixture of brass and zinc to which is 
 sometimes added a small portion of 
 tin. Wrought or rolled brass being 
 more homogeneous, and not likely to 
 contain an undue proportion of zinc, 
 should be preferred to cast-brass in 
 preparing the solder. The proportions 
 of brass and zinc vary according to 
 the purpose intended ; addition of zinc 
 increases the fusibility but decreases the 
 ductility and also the durability of the 
 solder. A very good hard solder for 
 cast-steel, wrought-iron, steel, copper, 
 and brass (with the exception of cast- 
 brass) is obtained by melting 7 parts 
 of brass shavings together with 1 of 
 zinc, keeping the mixture in flux for 
 not longer than 6 to 7 minutes, and 
 then pouring out. 
 
 Hard Solder containing Tin. In 
 preparing this solder it is best to melt 
 the brass and zinc separately in 2 
 crucibles, so that they become liquid 
 at the same time. The zinc is then 
 carefully, and with quick and constant 
 stirring, poured in the brass previously 
 skimmed. 
 
 
 I. 
 
 II. 
 
 in. 
 
 IV. 
 
 
 
 Pa 
 
 ts. 
 
 
 Brass . 
 
 18 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 16 
 
 Zinc 
 
 3 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 Tin free from lead . . 
 Copper 
 
 2 
 
 ..! 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 16 
 
 Other solders belonging to the same 
 order : 
 
 
 I. 
 
 II. 
 
 III. 
 
 IV. 
 
 V. 
 
 Parts. 
 
 Copper 
 
 33.34 
 
 61.25 
 
 13 
 
 49.5 
 
 24 
 
 Zinc 
 
 66.66 
 
 38.75 
 
 10 
 
 50.5 
 
 8 
 
 Tin . . . 
 
 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Or, tin 1 part, brass 5; or, zinc 19 
 parts, brass 82 ; or, zinc 333 parts, brass 
 1000, and tin 125. 
 
 Solder for A ryentan ( German Silver). 
 
338 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 A composition consisting of argentan 
 and more or less zinc is used for this. 
 The proportions vary very much, but, 
 as regards durability and solidity of 
 the solder, it is best to take as little 
 zinc as possible. Argentan by itself is 
 well suited for soldering iron and steel 
 articles. 
 
 Hard Silver Solder is used for solder- 
 ing silverware and fine articles of brass, 
 copper, steel, and iron. It consists of 
 silver with a large addition of copper, 
 or of silver, copper, and zinc. 
 
 a. Hard Silver Solder (for the first 
 soldering) is generally composed of: 
 
 
 I. 
 
 II. 
 
 III. 
 
 IV. 
 
 V. 
 
 VI. 
 
 VII. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 IX. 
 
 X. 
 
 XI. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Parts. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Fine silver 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 19 
 
 57 
 
 66. 7 
 
 663 
 
 50 
 
 11 
 
 16 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 Copper 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 28.6 
 
 23.3 
 
 25.7 
 
 33.4 
 
 
 
 
 
 Brass 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 15 
 
 76 
 
 157 
 
 Zinc 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 143 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 16 6 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 18 
 
 35 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 b. Softer Hard Silver Solder for after- 
 soldering, i. e., for soldering articles 
 having parts already soldered and 
 
 therefore requiring a more fusible 
 solder : 
 
 
 I. 
 
 II. 
 
 III. 
 
 IV. 
 
 v. 
 
 VI. 
 
 VII. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 IX. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Parts. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Medium fine silver .... 
 Zinc 
 
 7 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 1 
 
 3.5 
 1 
 
 2 
 1 
 
 10.5 
 3 
 
 68.8 
 
 8.2 
 
 67.1 
 10.5 
 
 48.3 
 16.1 
 
 Copper 
 
 
 
 
 2.6 
 
 3 
 
 4.5 
 
 23 
 
 24.4 
 
 32.3 
 3 3 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Hard Gold Solders for soldering gold- 
 Avare, and sometimes fine articles of 
 steel, are generally divided into : 
 
 1. Easily Liquefiable Solder for Arti- 
 cles of less than 14-carat gold. Four- 
 teen-carat gold 10 parts, fine silver 5, 
 zinc 1. This solder serves for yellow 
 gold which it resembles in color, and 
 also for finer goldware which is not to 
 be colored. 
 
 3. Refractory Solder for Articles of 
 14-carat gold and over, especially when 
 they are to be colored. Fine gold 16 
 parts, fine silver 9, copper 8. 
 
 3. Solder for Articles of 20-carat 
 gold which are to be enamelled, and 
 
 by reason of the heat to which they are 
 exposed during the process require a 
 very refractory solder: a. Fine gold 
 37 parts, fine silver 9. b. Eighteen- 
 carat gold 16 parts, fine silver 3, cop- 
 per .1. 
 
 Very Refractory Solders for Articles to 
 be enamelled. 
 
 I. 
 
 III. 
 
 II. 
 
 Parts. 
 
 Copper 25 0.1 
 
 Silver 7 3 9 
 
 Gold 68 16 37 
 
 Other Hard Gold Solders for articles 
 of gold of 14-carat and over are com- 
 posed of: 
 
 
 I. 
 
 II. 
 
 III. 
 
 IV. 
 
 V. 
 
 VI. 
 
 VII. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 IX. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Parts. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 24 2 
 
 33.4 
 
 37.5 
 
 26.1 
 
 27.1 
 
 27.2 
 
 29.2 
 
 33.3 
 
 31.3 
 
 Silver . . . 
 
 27 3 
 
 Itt. 6 
 
 18.75 
 
 ^5 
 
 76.7 
 
 31.8 
 
 33.3 
 
 37.5 
 
 50 
 
 Gold 
 
 48.5 
 
 50 
 
 43.75 
 
 48.9 
 
 56.2 
 
 40.9 
 
 37.5 
 
 29.2 
 
 18.7 
 
SOLDERING AND SOLDERS. 
 
 339 
 
 Good Sard Solder used for soldering 
 brass is prepared from an alloy of 6 
 parts of copper with 4 of brass and 10 
 of tin. The copper and brass are first 
 melted and the tin is then added. 
 When the whole is melted together it is 
 poured upon a bundle of twigs held 
 over a tub of water, into which it falls 
 in granulations. The granulated metal 
 is then dried and pounded to the re- 
 quired fineness in a mortar. By add- 
 ing to this alloy 2 parts of zinc a still 
 more fusible solder is obtained. For 
 soldering platinum, fine gold cut up in 
 small pieces is used. 
 
 An Excellent Soft Solder is obtained 
 by melting together equal parts of bar- 
 tin and lead. It is used for soldering 
 tin plates together, and gives very good 
 results. The following table gives a 
 number of alloys for soft solder and 
 their respective melting points : 
 
 Soft Solder for Cast Britannia 
 Metal. Melt together lead 10 parts, 
 tin 16. 
 
 Solder for Pewter. Melt together 
 tin 30 parts, lead 15, and bismuth 3 
 to 9. 
 
 Hard White Solder is composed of 
 copper 24 parts, zinc and tin each 8. 
 
 Hard Yellow Solders. 1 consists 
 of copper 13 parts and zinc 10. 
 
 2. This is especially suitable for cop- 
 persmiths. It is composed of zinc 49.5 
 parts and copper 50.5. 
 
 Solder for Gold on Aluminium 
 Bronze. Copper 8 parts, aluminium 
 12, and zinc 80, melted together in the 
 order mentioned. For larger articles : 
 Copper 4 parts, aluminium 6, and zinc 
 90. 
 
 Three Excellent Hard Solders found 
 in commerce are composed as follows : 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 (Jopper Zinc Tin Lead 
 
 
 
 
 Bis- 
 
 Melting 
 Point. 
 
 Parts. Parts. Parts. Parts. 
 
 0. 
 
 m. 
 
 
 muth. 
 
 DegreesF. 
 
 A. Golden yellow 53.50 43.33 2.12 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 B. Medium light 43.75 50.58 3.75 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 C. White . . . 57.50 27.90 14.90 trace. 
 
 1 
 
 
 25 
 
 
 556 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 541, 
 
 To Solder Brass and Sheet-tin. Tin 
 
 4 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 482 
 
 the brass where it is to be soldered, and 
 
 5 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 441 
 
 use a solder consisting of 2 parts tin and 
 
 6 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 370 
 
 1 lead. 
 
 7 
 
 I* 
 
 1 
 
 
 3:M 
 
 To Solder Iron and Steel. For large 
 
 8 
 9 
 10 
 
 2 
 3 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 
 340 
 356 
 365 
 
 pieces of iron or steel, copper or brass 
 is used as solder. Place a thin strip of 
 
 11 
 12 
 
 5 
 6 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 
 378 
 380 
 
 copper or brass along the junction, 
 bind the plates together with wire, and 
 
 13 
 14 
 15 
 
 4 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 320 
 310 
 
 292 
 
 cover them an inch deep with clay free 
 from sand. For soldering iron to iron 
 
 16 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 254 
 
 bring the plates, when dry, to a white 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 334 
 
 heat, and then plunge them into cold 
 
 18 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 2U3 
 
 water; for iron to steel or steel to steel 
 
 19 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 
 cool slowly from the white heat. The 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 vitrified clay is then broken off. 
 -__ , y , i -IT 
 
 
 For smaller articles prepare a solder 
 
 No. 8 is used for soldering cast-iron 
 and steel, sal-ammoniac or rosin 
 
 by granulating a mixture of 8 parts of 
 brass with 1 of zinc. Mix this solder 
 
 serving as a flux. Copper, brass, and 
 
 with borax and spread it over the arti- 
 
 bronze can also be soldered with the 
 
 cles to be joined. 
 
 same alloy and the same flux. For 
 
 For very small articles a solder pre- 
 
 soldering tin-plate and sheet-iron chlo- 
 ride of zinc is used as a flux with the 
 
 pared by melting together 6 parts of 
 brass, 1 of zinc, and 1 of tin is used. 
 
 same solder. Lead and tin-pipes are 
 
 The solder is beaten into thin plates, 
 
 soldered with Nos. 6, 7, and 8, using 
 
 which are applied, together with borax, 
 
 rosin and olive oil as flux. 
 
 to the surfaces of the articles to be sol- 
 
 Hi Jver Solder for Plated Ware. Melt dered. 
 
 together silver 64 parts and brass 40. Very small and delicate articles are 
 
340 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 best soldered by gold, either pure or 
 mixed with 2 parts of silver and 3 of 
 copper. 
 
 To Solder Steel on Sheet-iron. Melt 
 borax in an earthenware pot, and mix 
 it with T\J part of sal-ammoniac. Cool 
 it upon an iron plate, and add an equal 
 weight of lime. When iron and steel 
 are~to be soldered together bring them 
 first to a red heat, and spread the above 
 mixture over them. The mixture melts 
 and becomes liquid like sealing-wax. 
 The pieces of metal are replaced in the 
 fire and heated again, but not nearly as 
 strong as for ordinary soldering ; they 
 are then taken out and the two surfaces 
 united by hammering. The same pro- 
 cess is also recommended for soldering 
 sheet-iron tubes. 
 
 Soldering without a Soldering Iron. 
 Pieces of brass, etc., can be soldered 
 without it being possible to detect the 
 joint by filing the pieces so that they 
 fit exactly, moistening them with a sol- 
 dering liquid, then placing a piece of 
 smooth tin-foil between them, tying 
 them together with wire, and heating 
 over a lamp or fire until the tin-foil 
 melts. With good soft solder most all 
 soldering can be done over a lamp 
 without the use of soldering iron. The 
 different degrees of fusibility of solders 
 can also be advantageously used for 
 several solderings and joints on the 
 same piece. By soldering first with a 
 fine solder composed of lead 2 parts, tin 
 1, and bismuth 2 there will be no 
 danger of melting when close to the 
 jointed part another piece is soldered 
 on with solder composed of lead 4 parts, 
 tin 4, and bismuth 1. The following 
 soldering liquid is the best to use : 
 Equal parts of water and hydrochloric 
 acid saturated with zinc. 
 
 Soldering Liquid Causing no Rust 
 is prepared as follows : Dissolve small 
 pieces of zinc in hydrochloric acid until 
 the acid ceases to effervesce. Then add 
 about J part of the solution of spirit of 
 sal-ammoniac, which neutralizes all 
 acid, and finally dilute the whole with 
 an equal quantity of water. This sol- 
 dering liquid causes no rust on iron 
 or steel, and does excellent service in 
 all soldering and also in tinning opera- 
 tions. 
 
 Another Soldering Liquid Free from 
 Acid is prepared by mixing 10 parts of 
 
 pure hydrochloric acid with 5 of water, 
 and adding gradually to the mixture 5 
 parts of zinc cut up in small pieces. It 
 is best to use an earthenware or glass 
 vessel with a wide neck, and, by reason 
 of the escaping gases being very poison- 
 ous, to perform the work in the open 
 air. When all the zinc has been added 
 stir frequently with a wooden rod dur- 
 ing the first day ; the next day heat the 
 vessel gently by placing it in hot water 
 or hot sand, and then place the mixture 
 aside for clearing. In a few days pour 
 oft' the clear fluid, and add a solution 
 of i part of sal-ammoniac in 2 of 
 water; stir thoroughly and put the 
 ready liquid in earthen jars or glass 
 bottles. 
 
 The zinc remaining in the vessel is 
 rinsed off with water, dried, and kept 
 for future use. 
 
 If a stronger liquid is desired, the last 
 2 parts of water may be omitted and 
 the sal-ammoniac directly dissolved in 
 the solution of zinc. 
 
 Simple Method of Soldering Small 
 Articles. Moisten the surfaces of the 
 metals to be soldered with a feather 
 dipped in a solution of sal-ammoniac, 
 and fit the joint with tin-foil cut to the 
 exact size, and heat the metals suffi- 
 ciently to melt the tin-foil. When cold 
 the surfaces will be found firmly ce- 
 mented together. 
 
 To Solder Saws. A piece of char- 
 coal, a blowpipe, some spelter and bo- 
 rax are required. File the ends of the 
 saw smooth, so that one side laps over 
 the other ; fit the teeth opposite each 
 other, and bind it with iron wire to 
 keep in place. Then moisten the lap 
 with borax dissolved in water and place 
 the saw on the charcoal. Place the 
 broken parts near a gas jet, sprinkle 
 the parts previously wetted with the 
 spelter, and blow the flame of gas until 
 the spelter runs; let it get cool before 
 removal. When quite cold file it flat 
 with the other part of the saw. 
 
 SUGARS, GLUCOSE, ETC. 
 
 Preparation of Milk Sugar. By the 
 former process of evaporating the whey 
 in order to gain the milk-sugar, a 
 large part of it, by reason of the per- 
 centage of acid, passed over into non- 
 
SUGARS, GLUCOSE, ETC. 
 
 trystallizable lactose. By Singling* s 
 process the whey is neutralized with 
 whiting, then evaporated to one-half 
 its volume and allowed to settle. The 
 clear whey is then drawn off from the 
 precipitate, consisting of albumen and 
 calcium phosphate, and further evap- 
 orated. The sugar separates from the 
 purified solutions in cohering lamina 
 and crusts. The mother lye, by being 
 further evaporated, yields a 'second 
 crystallization. The remaining thick 
 lye can be still further worked into 
 sugar by dialysis. By this process 100 
 parts of summer whev yield 4 parts of 
 refined milk-sugar. By allowing the 
 whey to freeze and removing from time 
 to time the ice-crust formed, a solution 
 rich in sugar is obtained in a compara- 
 tively short time, and which is purer 
 than that gained by evaporation, since 
 the fat, albumen, and salts mostly com- 
 bine with the ice. An experiment to 
 obtain milk-sugar by this process re- 
 sulted in a yield of part of milk- 
 sugar, white as snow, from 10 parts of 
 whey, the result being still better from 
 winter whey, naturally poor in sugar, 
 100 parts of" which yielded 2} parts of 
 milk-sugar. 
 
 Improvement in Refining and Crys- 
 tallizing of Starch Sugar (Glucose). 
 Commercial glucose is melted and 
 mixed with 70 to 80 per cent, of spirit 
 of wine of 80 Tralles, or with pure 
 pyroligneous spirit. To the resulting 
 syrupy mixture add pulverized glu- 
 cose, and allow the whole to congeal at 
 a temperature of above 86 F., stirring 
 it frequently. The syrup obtained in 
 the manufacture of starch can also be 
 treated in this manner. The resulting 
 paste is pressed and treated in the cen- 
 trifugal machine, and the alcohol re- 
 gained by distilling in a vacuum. To 
 prepare solid transparent glucose (dex- 
 trose hydrate C 6 II 12 O 6 H 2 O) concen- 
 trate in a vacuum a solution of glu- 
 cose to 40 (weighed at 90) and allow 
 it to crystallize in moulds at a temper- 
 ature from 95 to 120 F. At a lower 
 temperature it crystallizes in wart-like 
 masses. 
 
 Refining and Preparation of An- 
 hydrous Glucose. Evaporate in a j 
 vacuum an entirely colorless and clear i 
 solution of glucose until a sample can 
 scarcely be kneaded. Then mix the 
 
 evaporated mass with 10 to 25 parts 
 by weight of boiling hot methyl al- 
 cohol, and pour the resulting thin 
 syrup in conical moulds, which can be 
 closed. Crystallization will be com- 
 plete in 2 or 3 days, when what re- 
 mains liquid is expelled by suction. 
 
 For producing dense and solid 
 sugar, saturate the porous mass taken 
 from the moulds with a mixture of 
 100 parts of concentrated syrup and 80 
 to 100 parts of pyroligneous spirit and 
 allow it to crystallize at an ordinary 
 temperature. When the desired den- 
 sity has been obtained, remove the 
 liquid portion by suction and wash the 
 sugar with methyl alcohol. The 
 methyl alcohol remaining in the loaves 
 is distilled off by bringing the loaves 
 into a vacuum pan, a temperature of 
 86 F. being sufficient at the start, 
 and need only be raised towards the 
 end of the operation to 120 to 140 F. 
 The pyroligneous spirit is regained by 
 distillation from the fluid drawn off by 
 suction. 
 
 Apparatus and Process for the Fab- 
 rication of Starch, Glucose, and Hard 
 Grape Sugar (Dextrose), by Wm. T. 
 Jepp, of Buffalo, N. Y. Through the 
 hopper A 1 (Fig. 40) the corn, etc., to be 
 worked is conveyed into the closed 
 steeping vat A filled with water of 
 about 140 F., and distributed by an 
 apparatus over the entire inner sur- 
 face of the vat. The material sinks 
 down, while the foreign admixtures 
 are removed by a discharge pipe. 
 After 48 hours the water is drawn off, 
 and the corn conveyed by an elevator 
 to the hopper B 1 , and from here to the 
 mill B 2 , from whence it passes to the 
 shaking sieve C, upon which falls a 
 constant stream of water. The starch 
 passes through the sieve, while the 
 bran remains behind and is carried by 
 a transport screw placed underneath 
 the sieve to the elevator C", and is 
 conveyed by this to the crushing ap- 
 paratus D, consisting of two rubber 
 collars between which passes a wire 
 cloth. The bran is here freed from 
 moisture and starch, the bran remain- 
 ing upon the wire cloth while the 
 starch is collected in a basin beneath 
 the cloth and runs from here into the 
 settling boxes E, where it is treated 
 with chemicals in order to separate 
 
342 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 the gluten. From here the starch- 
 milk is conveyed to the inclined 
 starch tables G, and is then carried 
 into a channel at the head of the 
 series of tables where it is comminuted 
 by a revolving knife, water being 
 admitted at the same time. The paste 
 is conveyed to the mixing reservoir 
 K provided with a stirring apparatus, 
 and finally into the settling box L, 
 where it is washed. To produce 
 glucose the starch is brought into the 
 open converter L, drawn off into the 
 holder M, and here neutralized. The 
 fluid is then conducted through the 
 settling box M l and the bag-filter M* 
 into the reservoir M 4 , and bleached. 
 From M 4 the fluid passes through the 
 bag-filter N 1 to N 1 and O, is filtered 
 through animal charcoal, and then 
 pumped into the vacuum pan Q, 
 where it is concentrated. After pass- 
 ing through the filtering presa R, it is 
 ready to be drawn into barrels. 
 
 For preparing hard grape sugar 
 (dextrose), the solution of sugar is con- 
 veyed from the closed converter L 3 
 into the reservoir T, then to T 1 where 
 it is neutralized and blenched, and 
 
 phate of barium may be used, or any 
 other barium salt forming an insoluble 
 combination. 
 
 Preparation of Pure Levulose. Pre- 
 pare a 10 per cent, solution of cane 
 sugar, add for every 100 parts of sugar 
 2 parts of hydrochloric acid, and heat 
 to 140 F. At this temperature the 
 fluid remains entirely colorless. The 
 conversion into grape and fruit sugars 
 takes place very slowly and regularly, 
 
 11 pounds of sugar requiring about 17 
 hours. After complete conversion a 
 
 12 per cent, solution of inverted sugar 
 is obtained. Allow the fluid to cool 
 slowly to about 23 F. Then add to 
 every 10 parts of sugar 6 parts of 
 slaked lime pulverized and passed 
 through a hair sieve, mix and stir 
 thoroughly. The fluid congeals to a 
 paste, the temperature rising about 2 
 degrees. Then press out the paste in 
 order to separate the liquid lime-com- 
 pound of grape sugar from the solid 
 lime-compound of fruit sugar. Re- 
 place the latter in water and press it 
 out again, repeating the operation as 
 long as the wash-water turns to the 
 right. The remaining mixture of 
 
 finally into the settling box M 1 . From j lime-compound of levulose and excess 
 here it is passed through the bag-filter I of lime is suspended in water and 
 M 2 into the reservoir M 3 , filtered, then saturated with oxalic acid until the 
 pumped into M 4 , where it is bleached | lime-compound is accurately neutral- 
 
 and filtered through N into N 1 . From 
 the latter it is conveyed to O, and is 
 either filtered through the carbon 
 filter P or brought directly into the 
 vacuum pan Q. The concentrated 
 fluid is filtered through filter-presses 
 
 5 zed. The scarcely yellowish colored 
 fluid is then filtered off from the 
 oxalate of lime into a large beaker 
 glass and placed in a cold mixture of 
 snow and hydrochloric acid. Stir 
 thoroughly until about ^ of the water 
 
 into U, and passes from here into the is frozen. Then throw the whole 
 cooling apparatus. S V and V 1 are the upon a linen filter, and, as soon as the 
 steam apparatus and furnace for re- greater part of the fluid is drained off, 
 
 vivifying the animal charcoal. In the 
 cooling apparatus S the hot cream-like 
 sugar is kept in constant motion by a 
 screw, and cooled off by serpentine 
 pipes. Solidification is accelerated by 
 throwing in finished sugar. 
 
 To Remove Gypsum from Solutions 
 of Glucose produced with the aid of 
 Sulphuric Acid. The solution of glu- 
 cose formed by boiling the starch with 
 dilute sulphuric acid is, after being 
 neutralized with chalk, filtered, com- 
 pounded with oxalate of barium and 
 boiled down. The solution, after fil- 
 tering, is entirely free from gypsum. 
 In place of oxalate of barium, phos- 
 
 press out the residue. Replace the 
 combined filtrates in the cold mixture 
 and repeat the whole process until a 
 very concentrated solution of levulose 
 is obtained, and then dry the levulose 
 syrup in a vacuum. Levulose thus 
 obtained is pure and white. 
 
 A New Source for Supplying Man- 
 nite is, according to W. Tlidrner, the 
 Afjaricus integer, a common and easily 
 recognized fungus. Boil out the com- 
 minuted fungus with fresh quantities 
 of alcohol until the extracts, on cooling, 
 separate no more crystals. The crys- 
 talline mass, consisting of separated 
 mannite, is redissolved in alcohol and 
 
SUGARS, GLUCOSE, ETi 
 
 343 
 
344 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 boiled with animal charcoal. From 
 the filtered fluid the mannite crystal- 
 lizes in snow-white needles. One hun- 
 dred parts of Agaricus integer yield 
 from 19 to 20 parts of mannite. 
 
 Purification of Sugar Beet Juice by 
 means of Silica Hydrate. Heat the 
 juice nearly to the boiling point and 
 compound it with to 2 parts of silica 
 hydrate of 10 B. to every 100 parts of 
 juice, the quantity depending on the 
 organic substances and organic alka- 
 line combinations in the juice. In 
 about 5 minutes add to the mixture 
 0.004 per cent, of lime in the form of 
 milk of lime (or air-slaked) and then let 
 it come to a boil. Remove the result- 
 ing precipitate by pressing and treat the 
 filtrate like other juice, i. e., filter and 
 boil down. 
 
 To Prepare Strontia Sugar from 
 Treacle and Syrup. By using 3 mole- 
 cules of strontia to 1 molecule of sugar 
 strontium saccharate is precipitated at 
 the boiling point under ordinary or 
 higher pressure. The precipitate is 
 separated from the fluid in a hot con- 
 dition and washed with hot water. The 
 strontium saccharate thus obtained is 
 decomposed by water at a lower tem- 
 perature into basic saccharate and free 
 strontium hydrate. The strontium sac- 
 charate is used for separating beet 
 juice and other sacchariferous juices. 
 
 TEXTILE FABRICS AND TISSUES. 
 
 Coating Textile Fabrics urith Metallic 
 Substances. Fine comminuted metallic 
 powder is mixed with an adhesive sub- 
 stance, as caoutchouc, etc., and the 
 mixture applied either by hand or 
 machine to the textile fabric, which is 
 then dried and glazed. After glazing 
 a pattern may be either pressed or 
 printed upon the fabric. 
 
 Effect of Heat on Textile Fabrics. 
 Recent experiments have shown that 
 white wool, cotton, and silk may be 
 heated to 248 F. for 3 hours without 
 apparent injury, except that wool will 
 show a slight change in color, especially 
 when new. The same may be said of 
 dyed wools, printed cottons, and most 
 dyed silks ; but some white silks turn 
 brown by this heat, and some pink 
 silks are faded by it. The same tem- 
 
 perature will, if continued for a longer 
 period, slightly change the color of 
 white wool, cotton, silk, and un- 
 bleached linen, but will not otherwise 
 injure them. A heat of 293 F., con- 
 tinued for about 3 hours, slightly singes 
 white wool, and less so unbleached and 
 white cotton, white silk, and linen, 
 both unbleached and white, but does 
 not materially injure their appearance. 
 The same heat continued for about 5 
 hours singes and injures the appear- 
 ance of white wool and cotton, un- 
 bleached linen, white silk, and some 
 colored fabrics of wool, or mixed wool 
 and cotton, or mixed wool and silk. It 
 is noteworthy that the singeing of any 
 fabric depends not alone upon the heat 
 used, but also on the time during which 
 it is exposed. In these experiments 
 the heat was obtained by burning gas 
 with smokeless flames, and conducting 
 the products of combustion, mixed with 
 the heated air, by means of a short 
 horizontal flue into a cubical chamber 
 through an aperture in its floor, and 
 out of it by a smaller opening in its 
 roof. Fixed thermometers showed the 
 temperature of the entering and out- 
 going currents, which represent the 
 maximum and minimum temperatures 
 of the chambers. 
 
 Feather-plush. A process has re- 
 cently been patented in Germany 
 whereby finely comminuted down is 
 worked with textile materials into a 
 fur-like fabric, in lengths of about 50 
 yards by 2 yards in width. The down 
 may also be used in the manufacture 
 of light bed-covers, wall-papers, etc., 
 and for this feathers of little or no value 
 and formerly considered useless can be 
 utilized. The process is as follows: 
 The feathers are comminuted by a 
 machine representing a combination of 
 a batting machine, fan and sieves. The 
 resulting down is then carded in a 
 carding engine together with 40 to 90 
 per cent, of other material and formed 
 into a close fleece. By mechanical 
 friction and the aid of steam the fleece 
 is joined together in large pieces of a 
 kind of felt, which is then converted 
 into a cloth-like material by the fulling 
 process. The resulting fabric is then 
 thoroughly dried and steamed for some 
 time at a very high temperature in a 
 closed steam-box, resembling an appa- 
 
TEXTILE FABRICS AND TISSUES. 
 
 345 
 
 ratus for shrinking cloth. By this pro- 
 cess an intimate union is formed be- 
 tween the down and the other materials, 
 the fabric assuming at the same time a 
 plush-like appearance, which can be 
 very much varied in the finishing. 
 
 Down-cloth. Seventy-nine to 85 
 parts of down are mixed with 20 to 30 
 parts of wool and 50 to (30 parts of oleic 
 acid. The mixture is then passed 
 through a batting machine, and then 
 worked in succession in a breaking 
 card, finishing card, and carding ma- 
 chine. The material is then spun and 
 woven. The finished piece is freed 
 from oil, fulled, raised, shorn, and dyed. 
 The card-clothing of the rollers of the 
 carding machine corresponds to the 
 material to be worked. On the finish- 
 ing card is arranged an endless cloth 
 upon which rests another endless cloth, 
 which receives the mixture from the 
 porcupine, and, carrying it along, is 
 wound with it around a roller. On the 
 carding engine is also arranged an end- 
 less cloth upon which the fleece wound 
 around the roller of the finishing card 
 is unrolled and carried by it to the 
 working rollers. There is a further 
 contrivance on the carding engine by 
 which one or more threads may be in- 
 troduced into the roving in order to 
 make the fabric more durable. The 
 improvements in the gig consist in an 
 arrangement of drums covered with 
 carding between which the piece of 
 cloth runs. 
 
 Improvements in the Treatment of 
 Vegetable Fibres. The fibres after 
 having been freed from foreign con- 
 stituents are bleached in a bath of 4 to 
 1 per cent, of ethyl chloride to 25 
 gallons of water. To give to them a 
 silk-like gloss they are immersed for 
 3 hours iu a bath of sodium carbonate 
 or bicarbonate, then exposed to the 
 fumes of burning sulphur, and finally 
 thoroughly rinsed with water. 
 
 To give greater flexibility to the 
 fibres, they are, after having been dried 
 over hurdles, submitted to the action 
 of glycerine vapors. 
 
 Improvement in the Preparation of 
 Surfaces to be Printed on, Embossed, 
 etc. A design or drawing on transpar- 
 ent paper is placed upon a layer of 
 chrome-gelatine and exposed to the 
 light. The surface of chrome-gela v ane, 
 
 after the drawing has been removed, 
 is washed. A very fusible metal, the 
 Spen.ee me*al being the best adapted 
 for the purpose, is then poured over the 
 chrome-gelatine surface. The casting 
 can be directly used, or fac-similes are 
 prepared with the help of this metal- 
 plate, either by the galvanoplastic or 
 some other process. 
 
 In place of the design a drawing 
 prepared by weaving, knitting, print- 
 ing, etc., cao be used. Such drawing, 
 is then coated with a thick coat of 
 coloring matter or plastic material. In 
 case the relief formed is not deep 
 enough, it is improved by scattering 
 any powder or fibrous substance upon 
 the surface while it is still in a plastic 
 state. It is then filled up with Spence 
 metal, and the resulting plate used "for 
 printing. This process is also available 
 for printing with type and for emboss- 
 ing. 
 
 New Method of Compressing the 
 Fibres of Cotton Tissues, and Giving 
 the Colors more Lustre. This invention 
 is based upon the fact that cotton 
 threads treated with cold caustic-lye 
 are compressed to J. By this process 
 apparently very fine tissues can be pre- 
 pared from coarser, the colors appear- 
 ing more intense and brilliant. The 
 fabric gains in strength. A thread which 
 would formerly break when loaded 
 with 14 ounces will, after treatment, 
 require a weight of 21i ounces. 
 
 New Yarn, called Pearl Yarn, con- 
 sists of threads upon which at any 
 desired intervals are fastened drops or 
 pearls of a pasty substance, which, on 
 congealing, assume the appearance of 
 glass or crystals. The substance is 
 prepared from wax, rosin, lacquer, gum, 
 and enamel. The pearl yarn is prepared 
 either by hand or a trough is used for 
 the reception of the paste. Tubes are 
 arranged in the trough, each of which 
 is provided with an aperture below, 
 from which a drop of the pearl sub- 
 stance exudes and is received by a 
 thread held under the tube. 
 
 Oil-cloth. The customary process 
 of stretching the tissue in a frame and 
 coating it with a vegetable gluten 
 makes the oil-cloth hard and brittle. 
 It is claimed that animal gelatine, sub- 
 stituted for the vegetable gluten, reme- 
 dies this defect. Boiling the pit of the 
 
346 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 horns of ruminants makes the best 
 gelatine for this purpose, the ordinary 
 glue and gelatine not giving equally 
 good results. To about 32 parts of 
 melted gelatine add i part of a saponify- 
 ing material (borax being the best) and 
 16 parts of linseed-oil varnish, aiid allow 
 the compound to congeal. Then bring 
 it into a mill and mix it with 30 parts 
 of mineral color soaked in water, such 
 as kaolin, chalk, etc. Reduce the 
 compound with naphtha, and bring it 
 into the priming machine, where it may 
 be applied to the tissue once or oftener. 
 When the ground is sufficiently dry, 
 the following composition is applied: 
 75 parts of kaolin are formed into a 
 thick paste with water mixed in a mill 
 with 33 parts of linseed-oil varnish and 
 reduced with naphtha. Kaolin mixed 
 with linseed-oil varnish has been pre- 
 viously used for the same purpose, but 
 the kaolin having been mixed in a dry 
 state with the varnish, the oil-cloth re- 
 mained in consequence hard and brittle. 
 Soaking the kaolin before mixing it 
 with the varnish remedies this evil. 
 The composition is also applied to the 
 cloth by means of the priming machine, 
 adding at the same time the ground 
 color the oil-cloth is to have, and it 
 finally receives the desired pattern in 
 the ordinary way. 
 
 Apparatus and Process for Scouring 
 and Removing the Oil from fleece, Woof, 
 and Silk, and Woollen Fabrics of every 
 Description. The process is based upon 
 the use of carbonic acid gas or carbon- 
 ated water as a washing agent, with or 
 without other ingredients generally 
 used for washing, cleansing, and bleach- 
 ing. The apparatus used consists of a 
 revolving wash-barrel containing the 
 
 Fig. 41. 
 
 fabrics to be manipulated. The car- 
 bonic acid gas or carbonated water 
 enters through the tube a (Fig. 41), and 
 
 steam from the opposite side through 
 the tube b. Both steam and carbonic 
 acid are converted into a fine spray by 
 means of a perforated tube inside the 
 barrel, c is the carbonic acid holder, 
 d is a wagon for carrying away the 
 fabrics, e the cover of the aperture 
 through which the barrel is filled and 
 emptied, /the safety-valve, g the escape- 
 pipe for the gases. 
 
 Process for Animalizing Vegetable 
 Fibres with Nitro-glucose (Nitro-sac- 
 charose). Nitro-glucose or saccharose 
 is prepared by treating sugar with ni- 
 tric or sulphuric acid and washing and 
 kneading. The product is dissolved in 
 acetic acid or methyl-alcohol, and the 
 vegetable fibres are saturated with the 
 solution. The nitro-glucose may also 
 be produced upon the tissue by immers- 
 ing it in a solution of sugar and submit- 
 ting it to the action of nitric acid vapors 
 or drawing it through a solution of the 
 acid. Fibres prepared in this manner 
 act in dyeing like animal substances. 
 
 Patent Process to give to Colored 
 Fabrics a Metallic Lustre. For 5 parts 
 of black tissues use a bath consisting 
 of: Water 500 parts, sulphate of copper 
 J part, and tartaric acid part. The 
 tissues are manipulated in this at a 
 moderate heat for half an hour, then 
 rinsed, placed in a decoction of 5 parts 
 of logwood and some ebony shavings 
 with the corresponding quantity of 
 water, again rinsed and dried. They 
 are then placed in a mixture of ^ part 
 of sulphate of copper, H parts of aqua 
 ammonia, and 500 parts of water at a 
 temperature of 167 to 190 F., for 12 
 to 15 minutes. They are then rinsed, 
 and finally brought into solution of so- 
 dium hyposulphite of 25 B., again 
 rinsed and dried. 
 
 Preparation of Fibres that' can be 
 Spun from Nettles^, Hemp, Jute, etc. 
 To facilitate the action of the chemicals 
 used in the process the stems, which are 
 generally very hard and woody, must 
 be broken. This is best accomplished 
 by passing the stems between fluted 
 rollers and exposing them in a suitable 
 vessel for a few hours to the action of 
 steam, which separates the woody parts 
 from the fibres, removes the vegetable 
 gum mucus, etc., by loosening the sub- 
 stances enclosing the fibres. To make 
 the action of the steam more effective, 
 
TEXTILE FABRICS AND TISSUES. 
 
 347 
 
 it may be mixed with a small propor- 
 tion of hydrochloric acid vapors. The 
 stems are then placed for a few days ia 
 a lye prepared by slaking 10 parts of 
 lime in 1 of water. The .solution is 
 used either cold or hot, according to 
 the nature of the stems. Prepare a i 
 bath of 50 parts of caustic soda in 10,000 
 parts of water, and in it boil the pre- 
 pared stems for 4 to 6 hours at a tem- 
 perature of 212 to 248 F. ; 500 parts 
 of stems require about 4000 parts of 
 water. For very hard or unripe stems 
 the above bath can be strengthened by 
 addition of caustic soda previously dis- 
 solved in water distilled over quick- 
 lime. The strength of the bath varies 
 according to the condition of the stems, 
 to be regulated only by actual experi- 
 ence. In the strengthened bath the 
 stems may be left 6 to 8 hours at a tem- 
 perature of 176 to 248 F. To remove 
 the last traces of vegetable gum or 
 mucus the stems are placed in a hot 
 bath composed of water and ordinary 
 soft soap. The fibres, now cleansed 
 from all foreign substances, are 
 bleached, various methods being in 
 use. 
 
 I. Place the fibres for 1 to 3 hours in 
 a bath containing 5 parts of chloride 
 of lime to 1000 'parts of water. The 
 strength of the bath and duration of 
 immersion must be governed by the 
 conditions. If necessary a bath con- 
 taining an aqueous solution of i to 1 
 per cent, of ethyl chloride (spiritus 
 setheris chlorati) is used, which, it is 
 claimed, bleaches the fibres without in- 
 juring them in the least. 
 
 II. Immerse the fibres for 15 to 30 
 minutes in a bath containing 10 parts 
 of chloride of lime to 1000 parts of 
 water. Then immerse them in another 
 bath composed of 10 parts of magnesia 
 in 1000 parts of water. Chloride of 
 magnesium and free chlorine are 
 formed, which last bleaches the 
 fibre without injuring it. Drain 
 the fibres, after being bleached, and 
 bring them into a bath containing 
 5 parts of carbonate of potassium or 
 soda to 1000 parts of water. Carbonic 
 acid having a strong affinity for mag- 
 nesia forms carbonate of magnesium, 
 and the chlorine set free forms a fresh 
 equivalent of bleaching salt, which fin- 
 ishes the bleaching of the fibres, this 
 
 being the principal object of the opera- 
 tion. The fibres are then washed either 
 in cold or warm water to remove the 
 adhering chlorine. As this has to be 
 done verv carefully several baths are 
 used, either separately or combined. 
 The fibres are placed, for instance, 5 to 
 10 minutes in a hot sulphuric acid batli 
 of 140 to 170 F., in the proportion of 
 5 parts of sulphuric acid to 1000 parts 
 of water. Or the moist fibres, after 
 they have been washed, are placed for 
 
 1 to 2 hours in a room and exposed to 
 sulphuric fumes generated by the burn- 
 ing of sulphur. The fibres when thor- 
 oughly washed have a silky lustre 
 which can be augmented by a bath of a 
 strong solution of sodium carbonate or 
 bicarbonate. By again exposing the 
 fibres to sulphurous fumes it is claimed 
 that the carbonic acid which is devel- 
 oped splits the fibres, making them very 
 fine and extremely soft. They are then 
 again rinsed in water. To give the 
 fibres the necessary degree of softness 
 they are placed for 2 hears in a hot 
 bath having a temperature of 170 to 
 248 F., and composed as follows : Two 
 parts of olive or palm oil soap are dis- 
 solved in 100 parts of water, and the 
 solution compounded with i part of 
 soda. The fibres when dry are once 
 more passed through fluted rollers or a 
 breaker. They are finally spread Dut 
 upon hurdles, and in a closed room 
 exposed to the action of weak glycerine 
 vapors, whereby they obtain greater 
 flexibility without injury to their silky 
 lustre. They are now ready for spin- 
 ning. The fibre in a finished state is 
 soluble in strong acids, chloride of zinc, 
 and soda. 
 
 Shoddy. How it is Made. Shoddy 
 consists of old rags torn up for use in 
 adulterating wool. Both woollen and 
 cotton rags are used, but the former 
 more so than the latter. The rags are 
 first sorted and then go into the picker- 
 room, entering first a machine for beat- 
 ing out dust and called " the willow." 
 It consists of a cylinder provided with 
 long teeth and boxed in. A fan is at- 
 tached, which blows the dust into a 
 long flue. The cylinder revolves at 
 the rate of about 600 times per minute. 
 The rags next go to the picker. This 
 has a cylinder with teeth about 
 
 2 inches long, very sharp and set 
 
348 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 close ; it revolves about 1200 times ] 
 per minute. The rags are fed by 
 slow-moving rollers, which hold them 
 so that the teeth of the picker-cylinder 
 tear them in threads, and these threads 
 are passed on to a machine called the 
 "finisher" or " lumper" This is some- , 
 thing like the picker, but not so power- j 
 ful. It throws out the unworkable 
 stock or lumps and reduces the good 
 stock to finer texture. After leaving ' 
 the lumper the stock is ready for mix- 
 ing ; that is, different weights of 
 shoddy, cotton, and good wool are 
 placed in piles, according to the grade 
 of cloth to be made. The materials ore 
 then mixed in layers, often in such 
 quantities as to weigh several tons. 
 This mixture is then passed through 
 the willow, to more completely mingle 
 it, and then tli rough the lumper. It 
 then leaves the picker- room and goes 
 to the card-room. The " stock," as it is 
 now called, is placed in machinery 
 called " breakers," which make it uni- 
 form in quality, and it then goes to the 
 "condenser," by which it is formed 
 into thin folds, from f inch to 2 inches 
 in width, according to the quality of 
 the stock. It then goes to a system of 
 rollers, which roll these thin folds into 
 thread, which is run on to large spools 
 and is ready for spinning. The carding 
 machines are of different character, ac- 
 cording to the work demanded. The 
 spinning frame is generally called a 
 tf mule," and has on it from 600 to 700 
 spindles, and can work that many 
 threads at once. The art of hiding the 
 nature of shoddy is seen in great per- 
 fection in the weaving. By an arrange- 
 ment of the loom machinery the inferior 
 material is thrown to the back of the 
 cloth and the better fibres to the front. 
 By more complicated machinery certain 
 arrangements of fibres can be made on 
 the surface of the cloth, producing va- 
 rious forms of diagonal twills. To test 
 the quality of the cloth take a thread 
 of the filling and pull it apart. If it 
 'breaks off short, without any long fibres 
 holding it together, it is shoddy. If, 
 however, it draws out without break- 
 ing at once, and shows long fibres, then 
 the body or filling contains pure wool, 
 and the more of these long fibres are 
 ibund the better the cloth. We would 
 Anally remark that nowadays it is very 
 
 good cloth which has 50 per cent of 
 good wool in it. 
 
 &i//c Gauze. The warp is dressed 
 with a solution of gelatine and runs 
 only through two shafts. The wool' ia 
 reeled dry, and in the shuttle is placed 
 a small moistened sponge, through 
 which the cocoon-thread runs during 
 weaving. The raw fabric is immersed 
 in a hot solution of gelatine, then half- 
 dried, vigorously beaten between the 
 hands, and then stretched in a frame. 
 
 Tinning of Tissues. Woollen or cot- 
 ton fabrics can be provided with a close 
 and flexible coating of tin having a 
 silvery lustre. The process is as fol- 
 lows: Mix commercial zinc dust with 
 an albuminous solution into a thin 
 paste, and brush or roll the paste on 
 the fabric. When dry the coating is 
 fixed by coagulating the albumen by 
 means of hot steam, and the fabric is 
 then placed in a solution of chloride of 
 tin. The tin precipitates itself in a 
 finely-divided state upon the zinc. The 
 fabric is then washed with water, and, 
 when dry, is passed on to the glazing 
 machine, when the tin will appear as a 
 lustrous coating upon the fabrics. 
 Beautiful effects can be produced by 
 printing the fabrics, making them 
 available for decorative purposes. 
 Tinned linen, etc., can in many cases 
 be substituted for tin-foil as an elegant 
 and water-proof packing. 
 
 To Produce a Metallic Lustre upon 
 fabrics saturate them with a metallic 
 solution; for instance, acetate of lead, 
 and bring them before they are entirely 
 dry into a vessel, on the bottom of 
 which is placed some metallic sulphide 
 slowly decomposable by air, so that the 
 sulphide of hydrogen which is formed 
 acts upon the metallic salt. 
 
 Utilization of Short Hair. To make 
 short, rough hair suitable like wool for 
 spinning, weaving, or felting, treat 
 it with a thin alkaline solution and 
 then with diluted acid. 
 
 Utilization and Working of Jute. 
 The best qualities of jute are of a pale 
 yellow or silver-gray color, with a very 
 high silky gloss, and feel agreeably soft 
 and smooth to the touch. Jute is not 
 as strong as hemp or flax, but suffi- 
 ciently so for the production of durable 
 coarse fabrics. Although the separate 
 threads are comparatively fine they can 
 
TOBACCO, SNUFF, ETC. 
 
 only be used for coarse yarns. The 
 root ends, or jute-butts as they are 
 called in commerce, are generally 
 darker in color and harder and more 
 woody than the middle and upper por- 
 tions. The fibres are free from steins, 
 and only inferior qualities exhibit 
 dark scarf-skin cells adhering quite 
 tightly. The fibres are generally b'i to 
 9 feet* long, although there are some 
 varieties 14 feet long. The medium 
 qualities are of a dark brown color, 
 while the ordinary qualities are yellow 
 or reddish-brown, and both are harder 
 and more woody than the best quality, 
 and their root ends very hard and 
 coarse. The jute-fibre is very hygro- 
 scopic, and in an ordinary state contains 
 about 11 per cent, of water, and, if 
 stored in a damp room, may absorb as 
 much as 30 per cent, and more. The 
 better qualities of raw jute are much 
 used for enveloping submarine tele- 
 graph cables and as bandages for sur- 
 gical purposes, for which they are es- 
 pecially prepared. If they are to be 
 employed for bandages they are satu- 
 rated either in the dry state with sali- 
 cylic acid (salicyl-jute) or in a half- 
 moist condition with carbolic acid 
 (carbol-jute). Jute yarns are prepared 
 according to two processes. By the 
 first the jute is first cut up in stricks 
 about 2 feet long, which are then 
 heckled by machines, and finally 
 worked like flax into finished yarn, 
 but always upon the dry frame. This 
 method is employed in England, 
 France, and Belgium for a few num- 
 bers of yarns only, namely, for Nos. 16, 
 20, and 22, and furnishes also the article 
 which comes into commerce under the 
 name of " heckled yarn " or "jute line 
 yarn." 
 
 The second process for all numbers 
 from No. 14 down is almost generally 
 used in Germany and exclusively in 
 Austria. By this process the jute-stricks 
 are torn to short fibres by special card- 
 ing machines very strongly built, and 
 these short fibres are joined together in 
 an endless band, which is then stretched 
 iu the usual way in a drawing-frame, 
 and double-milled. It is then con- 
 verted into roving upon the fly-frame, 
 and finally into finished yarn upon the 
 dry frame But the jute, before it is 
 actually worked up, undergoes several 
 
 other processes in order to make it 
 softer and more flexible. These con- 
 sist in moistening the fibres with train 
 oil and water, and then passing them 
 repeatedly through between fluted roll- 
 ers. The yarns and the threads pre- 
 pared from them are either worked into 
 actual jute-fabrics, which are used as a 
 packing material, or employed in the 
 production of mats, carpets, table- 
 covers, and curtains, which, by reason 
 of their naturally yellow and glossy 
 color, are much in demand for decora- 
 tive purposes. The yarns, either raw, 
 bleached, or colored, are used as filling 
 either by themselves or mixed with 
 cotton warp. Jute yarns, mixed with 
 cotton, wool, and flax, are also used in 
 the manufacture of drills, bed-ticking, 
 furniture reps, lamp-wicks, canvas of 
 all kinds, and many small articles. 
 
 Utilization of Hop-stalks. In Sweden 
 a strong cloth is manufactured from 
 hop-stalks. The stalks are gathered 
 in autumn and soaked in water during 
 the whole winter. The material is 
 then dried in an oven and woven as flax. 
 
 A New Yarn is produced in France 
 in the following manner : Upon a mule 
 is placed another row of rollers through 
 which at different speeds is passed a 
 colored or plain thread, but twisted in 
 the reverse way of the yarn to be oper- 
 ated upon. Thus, when the spindles 
 revolve, the two threads are twisted, 
 but the additional yarn is untwisted. 
 This double yarn is again twisted with 
 the same or other yarn, but running it 
 again in the opposite direction, which 
 untwists the first thread and produces a 
 very singular effect, and one which in 
 the loom will, no doubt, produce a nov- 
 elty. 
 
 TOBACCO. SMOKING TOBACCO, SNUFF, 
 STERNUTATIVE POWDERS, ETC. 
 
 SMOKING TOBACCOS. Brazilian 
 Tobacco is brought into commerce 
 either in rolls or cut and in three qual- 
 ities. 
 
 I. Known as "Legitimo" is prepared 
 by mixing equal parts of best unribbed 
 Brazilian leaf and Havana leaf. 
 
 II. Havana leaf alone is used for 
 this and treated in the customary man- 
 ner, as follows : Extract pounded cassia 
 
350 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 bark 100 parts and sugar 300 parts in 
 2250 parts of soft water; then press out 
 tiie liquor and add cinnamon water 500 
 parts, saltpetre 100 parts, wine vinegar 
 450 parts, and common salt 125 parrs. 
 
 III. Ordinary American leaf of good 
 dark brown color is used for this. For 
 500 parts or' such leaf the following 
 mixture is required : Pulverize dried 
 plums 20 parts, tamarinds 15 parts, 
 cassia bark 5 parts, figs 10 parts, and 
 juniper berries 30 parts. Macerate the 
 powder in 225 parts of soft water for 24 
 hours, and add to the resulting liquor : 
 
 i'uice of Spanish licorice 30 parts, mo- 
 asses 20 parts, honey and saltpetre 
 each 10 parts. 
 
 Chinese or Star Tobacco, Yellow 
 Virginia leaf is used and treated as fol- 
 lows : Comminute orris root 10 parts, 
 large raisins 5 parts, angelica root 12* 
 parts, fresh walnut leaves 15 parts, cal- 
 amus root and elder blossoms each 7i 
 parts; pour 187i parts of water over 
 them, digest for 24 hours, and then 
 , press out the fluid. Now mix in a 
 glass matrass : Benzoine powder 1 part, 
 pulverized storax I part, cinnamon 
 blossoms I part, rosewood oil part, 
 and spirit of wine of 70 per cent. 15 
 parts. Close the matrass with a piece 
 of wet bladder perforated with a needle. 
 Digest the whole in a sand-bath for 24 
 hours, then pour off the .liquor and 
 press out the residue. Mix the two 
 fluids and the product is ready for use. 
 
 Canaster. To convert 500 parts of 
 Virginia leaf into canaster proceed as 
 follows : Pulverize 20 parts of cascarilla 
 bark, U parts of nutmeg, 5 parts each 
 of orris root and lavender blossoms, and 
 sift them into a tin tank, and pour over 
 them 185 parts of a solution of 1 J parts 
 each of purified potash and fresh 
 burned lime in soft water. Cover the 
 veosel and let it stand 24 hours in a 
 warm place, so that the mixture is 
 heated nearly to the boiling point with- 
 out actually boiling. The liquor when 
 cold is strained through linen and the 
 residue pressed out. Then dissolve in 
 the fluid thus obtained : Purified salt- 
 petre and common salt each 10 parts, 
 and white sugar 12 parts. Moisten the 
 leaves with the mixture, and pile them 
 together and turn them frequently, so 
 that they become uniformly permeated 
 with the liquor, which will be the case 
 
 in 6 to 8 days. While still moist the 
 leaves are cut, and when dry packed in 
 tin-foil or paper. 
 
 Half Canaster. I. Moisten 50 parts 
 of Virginia leaf before cutting with 
 the following mixture: Dissolve 2 parts 
 of sugar in 24 of water, and add A part 
 of cinnamon wine, & part of extract of 
 mastic, and 2 of juniper wine. The 
 tobacco after moistening is pressed into 
 a barrel, remaining there 24 hours, 
 when it is cut and packed. 
 
 II. Moisten 100 parts of Virginia leaf 
 with the following mixture, obtained 
 by boiling for 3 hours : Raisins 3 parts, 
 bay-leaves i, and pulverized cascarilla 
 bark i in water 80. Let the decoction 
 cool and strain the liquor through a 
 linen cloth, and then add 4 parts of 
 cinnamon wine and 1| of sugar. The 
 tobacco, after moistening, is dried and 
 cut. 
 
 Maracaibo Tobacco or Varinas Can- 
 aster. Finest Quality, No. I. Finest 
 Havana leaf 30 parts, small Orinoco 
 leaf and genuine Porto Rico leaf each 
 25, light yellow and green Virginia 
 leaf each 10. 
 
 Quality No. II. Havana leaf 15 
 parts, Louisiana leaf 20, Porto Rico 
 leaf 40, yellow Virginia leaf 15, and 
 green Virginia leaf 10. 
 
 Quality No. III. Havana and Lou- 
 isiana leaf each 5 parts, Porto Rico 
 leaf 40, and yellow and green Virginia 
 leaf each 25. 
 
 These mixtures have a very light 
 color. When a darker color is preferred 
 the yellow and green leaf is replaced 
 by dark yellow or brown. 
 
 Ostend Tobacco consists of a mixture 
 of American leaf. There are four va- 
 rieties : 
 
 No. I. Porto Rico leaf 33 parts, light 
 brown Maryland leaf 35, and brown 
 Virginia leaf 32. 
 
 No. II. Louisiana leaf 45 parts, light 
 yellow Virginia leaf 35, and light yel- 
 low Pennsylvania leaf 20. 
 
 No. III. Louisiana leaf 25 parts, 
 brown Virginia leaf 30, and good brown 
 Pennsylvania leaf 45. 
 
 No. IV. Equal parts of long Orinoco 
 leaf, yellow Virginia leaf, and yellow 
 Maryland leaf. 
 
 Petit Canaster comes into commerce 
 cut and packed in tin boxes. There 
 are two varieties of pure American leaf: 
 
TOBACCO, SNUFF, ETC. 
 
 351 
 
 No. I. Long Orinoco leaf 10 parts, ! orange peel, coriander seed, figs, and 
 Louisiana leaf 45, Porto Rico leaf 45. I sassafras wood each 1 pound, elder 
 No. II. Louisiana leaf 5 parts, long blossoms 12 ounces, cassia and juniper 
 
 Orinoco leaf 45, and brown Virginia 
 leaf 50. 
 
 Petum Optimum, according to the 
 Dutch Process. Free 50 parts of Vir- 
 ginia leaf from the Ctems and moisten it 
 with the following mixture : Dissolves 
 
 berries each 5f ounces, and galanga 12 
 ounces. Pour 60 pounds of water over 
 the above ingredients; allow them to 
 digest for 24 hours ; then pour oft' the 
 liquor and press out the residue. Dis- 
 solve in the liquor 2 pounds of pure 
 saltpetre, 3 pounds of common or rock 
 
 parts of rock-candy in 60 01' soft water, 
 
 sprinkle the solution over the leaf, salt" and 4 pounds of sugar. The 
 press the latter into a barrel, and then product is now ready for use. To im- 
 cut it. Dry the tobacco in the air, but j prove the scent of the tobacco in smok- 
 
 not near a fire, and then sprinkle it 
 with a mixture of juniper wine 1 part, 
 extract of mastic and cinnamon wine 
 each 2 parts, so that it is just moistened, 
 and then pack it in tin-foil or paper. 
 
 II. Moisten 100 parts of Virginia leaf 
 with water, let it stand 24 hours, cut 
 and dry in an airy room. In the mean- 
 while boil the following ingredients 
 for 3 hours in 32 parts of soft water : 
 One part of raisins, 3 of yellow rock- 
 sugar, and i of bay-leaves, and, when 
 the liquor is cool, add 3 parts cinnamon 
 wine. Sprinkle the tobacco with the 
 
 mixture 
 through. 
 
 and work it thoroughly 
 Dry it for some time in an 
 
 ing, compound the above before using 
 it with benzoin 2J ounces, mastic 1 
 ounce, myrrh 8| ounces, and spirit of 
 wine of 60 per cent, li pints. 
 
 Sivicent Tobacco (English Process). 
 Remove the lower thick stems from 100 
 parts of Virginia leaf, and moisten the 
 leaf with 60 parts of water, then cut it 
 up fine and kiln-dry it. In the mean- 
 while boil the following ingredients in 
 10 parts of water : sugar 3 parts, raisins 
 2, and cascarilla bark i. Strain the 
 liquor, when about milk-warm, through 
 a linen cloth, and when it is entirely 
 cold add 1 part of extract of mastic 
 and A of cinnamon wine. Moisten the 
 
 airy room, then put it in a barrel, let it ? tobacco with this mixture, and then 
 
 pack in paper or linen bags. 
 
 Swricent Tobacco (Ordinary). Macer- 
 ate i part of powdered cascarilla bsirk 
 
 stand in a cool place for 8 days, and 
 then pack in paper or linen bags. 
 
 Portocarero Tobacco. Boil in 24 
 
 parts of water, 2 of loaf sugar, A of pul- i 8 days in 2 parts of spirit of wine. 
 verized fennel-seed, i of pulverized Then boil the whole in 24 parts of 
 cascarilla bark, & of powdered cubebs, water together with 2 parts of wine- 
 and a like quantity of powdered cloves. | vinegar, i of bruised juniper berries, \ 
 
 of saltpetre, and i of bruised angelica 
 root, strain the liquor and with it treat 
 100 parts of ordinary country tobacco. 
 Sweet-scented Tobacco. This is pure 
 
 Moisten with the liquor 60 parts of 
 Maryland leaf, allow it to lie for 8 
 hours, then cut, dry, and pack it. 
 
 Porto Rico Tobacco, according to the 
 Dutch Process. Boil in a covered 
 
 boiler for 3 hours: Best wine-vinegar 
 12 parts, water 90, honey 1, large raisins 
 
 3, and bay-leaves i. Filter the liquor 
 and, when cooled off to milk-warm, 
 treat with it 100 parts of Porto Rico 
 leaf. 
 
 In Holland tobacco treated with the 
 
 Virginia leaf, but most of the article 
 sold under this name is an imitation 
 prepared from ordinary country to- 
 bacco. Treat 100 pounds of ordinary 
 
 tobacco in the usual manner. Prepare 
 the following compound : Comminute 
 4 pounds of dried prunes, 2 pounds 
 each of orange peel and rosewood, 1 
 above mixture is put up in rolls and is . pound of coriander seed, and 2 pounds 
 in great demand. j of raisins ; pour over them 8| ounces of 
 
 Porto Rico Tobacco from Ordinary \ purified potash and let the whole stand 
 Leaf. For 100 pounds of ordinary leaf, j for 24 hours. Then heat it nearly to 
 cured for 1 year, the following mixture j the boiling point, draw off the liquor, 
 is used. When the leaves are thoroughly and press out the residue; dissolve in 
 permeated they are piled together for 8 the liquor 2 pounds of purified salt- 
 days and turned once every day. Com- petre, 4 pounds each of common salt 
 minute : Lemon peel, green, dried and honey. Pour 40 pounds, of this 
 
352 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL .RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 mixture over the 100 pounds of pre- 
 pared tobacco. 
 
 Varinas Tobacco. I. Prepare a mixt- 
 ure by boiling in 90 parts of soft water 1 
 of raisins, 1 of raisin stems, 2 of fine 
 sugar, and i of pulverized fennel seed. 
 Cover the boiler and let the mixture cool. 
 When cold sprinkle 60 parts of yellow- 
 Porto Rico leaf and 40 of Maryland 
 leaf with it; cut and kiln-dry the to- 
 bacco. Then sprinkle it with 3 parts 
 of cinnamon wine, and pack it imme- 
 diately. 
 
 Improvement of Inferior Qualities of 
 Tobacco. We here give a number of 
 mixtures which can be recommended 
 for converting inferior qualities of leaf 
 tobacco into good smoking tobacco. 
 Each mixture is calculated for 100 
 pounds of leaf, the latter being treated 
 with it in the usual manner. It is left 
 to the manufacturer to adopt a suitable 
 name for each brand. 
 
 I. Comminute orris root, juniper 
 berries, and coriander seeds each 8J 
 ounces; pour 3 gallons of water over 
 them and let the whole digest 24 hours. 
 Now dissolve saltpetre 2 pounds, sugar 
 syrup 4 pounds, in water ! gallons, 
 and mix the solution with the above 
 liquor. Then macerate in a glass mat- 
 rass with the assistance of heat 8J 
 ounces of liquid storax in 2 pounds of 
 strong spirit of wine, filter the extract 
 and compound it with the above mixt- 
 ure, and the mixture is ready for use. 
 
 II. Comminute cascarilla bark, an- 
 gelica root, cinnamon blossoms, and 
 badiane each 7 ounces, and cloves 2 
 ounces ; pour 4 gallons of water over 
 them, macerate the whole 24 hours, 
 then press out the liquor and com- 
 pound it with a solution of 1^ pounds 
 of saltpetre and 2J pounds of brown 
 syrup in 1 gallons of water, and it is 
 ready for use. 
 
 III. Comminute cassia bark, orris 
 root, licorice root, angelica root, and 
 rosewood each 7 ounces. Macerate 
 with 4 gallons of water, press out the 
 liquor and compound it with a solution 
 of 2 pounds of pure saltpetre and 3i 
 pounds of white sugar in 1 gallons of 
 water, 
 
 IV. Comrninute juniper berries and 
 fresh bay-leaves each li pounds, fresh 
 walnut leaves 2 pounds, and green or- 
 
 8| ounces ; macerate with 4 gal- 
 
 lons of water for 24 hours, and press out 
 the fluid. Now pound in a mortar 1 fluid 
 ounce of oil of lemon and i ounce of 
 amber together with 3i pounds of white 
 sugar; dissolve the mixture in li gal- 
 lons of water, add 2 pounds of pure 
 saltpetre, and mix this solution with 
 the above liquor, and the mixture is 
 ready for use. 
 
 V. Comminute orris root and an- 
 gelica root each 7 ounces, vanilla 1 
 ounce, and cassia bark 8| ounces. 
 Pour 4 gallons of water over the in- 
 gredients, let the whole stand for 24 
 hours and then press out the liquor. 
 Rub up li pounds of white sugar with 
 a like quantity of rosewood oil and 8| 
 fluid ounces of oil of bergamot, add li 
 pounds of pure saltpetre, dissolve the 
 mixture in 1 gallons of water, and 
 compound the solution with the above 
 liquor. 
 
 VI. Convert into a coarse powdei? 
 cascarilla bark 7 ounces, cassia bark 4 
 ounces, digest with 4 gallons of water 
 for 24 hours, and press out the liquor. 
 Now rub up 2 pounds of sugar with 
 fluid ounce each of Peruvian balsam 
 and oil of cloves, add 1 pounds of pure 
 saltpetre, dissolve the mixture in H gal- 
 lons of water, and compound it with 
 the above fluid. 
 
 VII. Pulverize cassia bark and ba- 
 diane each 4 ounces, nutmeg 2 ounces, 
 and purified potash 3 i ounces; digest 
 them 24 hours in 4 gallons of water, 
 then pour off the fluid and press out the 
 residue. Now dissolve Peruvian bal- 
 sam and olibanum each 1 fluid ounce 
 in strong. spirit of wine 1 quart, add 
 2 pounds of sugar and U pounds of 
 saltpetre, and mix the solution with 
 the above liquor. 
 
 VIII. Convert into a coarse powder 
 orris root 8J ounces, cardamons with 
 their shells 23 ounces, cubebs 2i ounces, 
 cassia bark 4 ounces, cloves 1 ounce, 
 mastic 2i ounces ; digest them in 2 gal- 
 lons of water and 1 quart of alcohol of 
 70 per cent, for 24 hours, and then pour 
 off the liquor. The residue is extracted 
 with 2J gallons of water, with the 
 
 I assistance of heat, and the liquor ob- 
 | tained from this mixed with the first. 
 Then dissolve in the mixture 3i 
 j pounds of white sugar and l\ pounds 
 I of saltpetre, and add to the whole l\ 
 , gallons more of water, 
 
TOBACCO, SNUFF, ETC. 
 
 353 
 
 IX. Comminute the following in- 
 gredients and macerate them with i 
 gallon of spirit of wine of 60 per cent. : 
 Sassafras wood 8| ounces, cubebs 4 
 ounces, cloves 21 ounces, rosewood and 
 fennel seed each 7 ounces, and, after 24 
 hours, press out the liquor. The resi- 
 due is macerated with 4 gallons of hot 
 water, the fluid poured off and the resi- 
 due pressed out. Dissolve in this last 
 liquor 2 pounds of white sugar, 11 
 pounds of pure saltpetre, and then mix 
 the whole with the liquor obtained 
 first. 
 
 X. Comminute the following in- 
 gredients and macerate them 24 hours 
 in 2V gallons of soft water: Orange 
 peel 8| ounces, coriander seed 7 ounces, 
 and preserved rose leaves 1J pounds, 
 and then press out the liquor. Macerate 
 at the same time If ounces of nutmeg 
 and 21 ounces of storax with i gallon 
 of spirit of wine of 60 per cent., press 
 out the liquor and dissolve in it 1J 
 fluid ounces of oil of bergamot and H 
 pounds of sugar-syrup. Now mix this 
 gradually with the first liquor and 
 then dissolve in the whole li pounds 
 of saltpetre. 
 
 XI. Comminute : Cascarilla bark 4} 
 ounces, orris root 7 ounces, badiane 3V. 
 ounces, cubebs 21 ounces, and galanga 
 3V. ounces. Digest them in 4 gallons 
 of water in the sand-bath for 24 hours, 
 and then press out the liquor. In i 
 of the liquor dissolve 11 pounds of sugar 
 rubbed up with 1 fluid ounce of oil of 
 cloves, and in the other half 1 pint of 
 licorice juice and 11 pounds of salt- 
 petre, and then mix both thoroughly 
 togetner. 
 
 XII. Comminute: Fresh lemon peel 
 and fresh orange peel each 8| ounces, 
 cubebs 3V. ounces, calamus root and 
 coriander seed each 7 ounces, and 
 figs 1 1 pounds; macerate 24 hours in 4 
 gallons of soft water, strain off the 
 liquor, and dissolve in it 2 pounds of 
 sugar-syrup and li pounds of pure 
 saltpetre. 
 
 To Remove the Disagreeable Smell 
 and Taste of Inferior Qualities of To- 
 bacco. Treat 100 parts of ordinary 
 cured tobacco with a mixture of solu- 
 tions of If to 2 parts of potash in 100 
 parts of water and 20 of soda water- 
 glass in 500 to 600 parts of water. The 
 solution is poured over the leaf, the 
 23 
 
 latter remaining in it 2 days, with fre- 
 quent turning. The solution is then 
 poured off and the tobacco dried. 
 
 SNUFF MANUFACTURE. The tobacco 
 leaf is well fermented, then dried and 
 ground. The snuff-mill resembles some- 
 what a coffee or cocoa-mill with a 
 continuous rotation of the cone or 
 crusher. The ground tobacco travels 
 on an endless cloth to a vibrating sieve 
 where it is sifted, the fine particles are 
 carried forward into a box, while the 
 coarser are returned to the mill to be 
 reground. 
 
 J3arenburg Snuff. Treat 100 pounds 
 of ground tobacco with a sauce pre- 
 pared from the following ingredients : 
 Brown syrup 2 pounds, loaf sugar 6i 
 pounds, oil of jasmine li fluid ounces, 
 oil of bergamot i fluid ounce, purified 
 potash 31 pounds, common salt 12i 
 pounds rose water 8J pounds, and soft 
 water 2i gallons. 
 
 Bergamot Snuff. Treat 100 pounds 
 of ground tobacco with the following 
 mixture: Stems of American tobacco 
 cut up 41 pounds, rasped rosewood 41 
 pounds, calamus root and orange peel 
 cut up each 2 pounds, angelica root 
 cut up 1 pound, loaf sugar 41 pounds, 
 oil of bergamot 2 fluid ounces, oils of 
 lemon and lavender each i fluid ounce, 
 elder flower water 41 pounds, rose water 
 6i pounds, purified potash 2 pounds, 
 pure common salt 12i pounds, and soft 
 water 2 gallons. 
 
 Dutch Musino Snuff. Convert 100 
 pounds of fat Virginia leaf to a coarse 
 powder and mix it with the following 
 ingredients previously pulverized : 
 Cassia bark, orange peel, angelica root 
 each 1 pound, galanga and Brazil wood 
 each 2 pounds. Treat the above with 
 the following mixture: Dissolve loaf 
 sugar 2 pounds, saltpetre 1 pound, sal- 
 ammoniac 31 pounds, common salt 10 
 pounds, and purified potash 31 pounds 
 in elder flower water 2i gallons. 
 
 Espaniol or Sevilla Snuff. Convert 
 100 pounds of Orinoco or Havana 
 leaf into a fine powder, and treat it 
 with a mixture prepared from the fol- 
 lowing substances: Purified potash 41 
 pounds, common salt 5V pounds, cassia 
 water 11 gallons, melilot water and 
 rose water each i gallon, tonka beans 
 2 ounces, and color with 3 to 4 pounds 
 of colcothar. 
 
354 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Frankfort Snuff. Convert 100 pounds 
 of leaf tobacco into powder and treat it 
 as follows: Stems of Virginia tobacco 
 cut up 4 pounds, bruised juniper 
 berries 4i pounds, elecampane root cut 
 up 12i ounces, cassia bark, St. John's 
 bread, tamarinds, juniper-berry juice, 
 orange peel, and purified potash each 
 2 pounds, licorice juice and sal-am- 
 moniac each i gallon, brown syrup 3i 
 pounds, pure saltpetre li pounds, and 
 water 4 to 4 gallons. 
 
 Parisian Rappee. Boil dried prunes 
 8 pounds, juniper berries 1 pound, 
 tamarinds 4 pounds, syrup 3i pounds, 
 sal-ammoniac 8f ounces, salt of tartar 
 1 pound, and common salt 121 pounds 
 in 6 gallons of water, and then add 1 
 gallon of French brandy and 11 quarts 
 of wine-vinegar. Moisten as much 
 tobacco powder as possible with this 
 mixture and pack the finished snuff in 
 tin-foil. It improves with age. 
 
 Rappee (Genuine}. Boil in a cov- 
 ered boiler for 1 hour, in 5 gallons of 
 water, 1 pound of licorice root cut up, 
 8| ounces each of calamus root and bay 
 leaves, and 11 pounds of best logwood. 
 Filter the decoction while still warm 
 into a small barrel and dissolve in it, 
 stirring constantly : Common salt 9f 
 pounds, potash 1 pound, sal-ammoniac 
 4i ounces, and sulphate of iron 8| 
 ounces. When all is entirely dissolved 
 and thoroughly mixed add 21 quarts 
 of wine-vinegar. With this moisten 
 100 pounds of ground tobacco, press the 
 snuff into a barrel, and let it stand well 
 covered for 6 weeks, when it is ready 
 to be packed in tin-foil. 
 
 St. Vincent Rappee. Convert 100 
 parts of tobacco into powder and treat 
 it with the following mixture : Stoned 
 plums 4 parts, honey 2, bruised juniper 
 berries 1, calamus root chopped up 1, 
 angelica root cut up i, sal-ammoniac 4, 
 purified potash 2, wine-vinegar 6, pure 
 common salt 12, and soft water 24. 
 
 STERNUTATIVE (SNEEZING) POW- 
 DERS. Green Sternutatory. Convert 
 into a fine powder leaves of marjoram, 
 sage, pennyroyal with the flower, 
 betony, and origan each 30 parts, and 
 pass the powder through a hair-sieve. 
 Then add 15 parts of pulverized orris 
 root, 3 parts of cloves, and 2 parts of 
 cinnamon, each pulverized by itself. 
 Mix the powders intimately and color 
 
 with 1J parts of fine indigo and 21 
 parts of turmeric rubbed to an impalpa- 
 ble powder, and moistened with spirit 
 of wine. This imparts to the powder 
 a green color. Finally add a few drops 
 each of the following oils : marjoram, 
 cajeput, lavender, and bergamot. 
 
 Variegated Sternutatory. Pulverize 
 dried corn flowers, common marigolds, 
 lavender flowers, leaves of marjoram, 
 sage, and savory each 2 parts. Pass 
 the powders through a fine sieve, and 
 then add the following ingredients all 
 finely pulverized and rubbed up with 
 & part of sugar: White sandal wood, 
 yellow sandal wood, orris root, cinna- 
 mon, cloves, zedoary of each 1 part, 
 and musk 5 V part, and finally oils of 
 cloves, cinnamon, and cardamon each 
 A part. Mix all intimately with an 
 addition of 2 parts of spirit of wine, 
 and preserve in well-corked glass bot- 
 tles. 
 
 White Sternutatory. Pulverize : 
 Orris root and cinnamon each 30 parts, 
 white Castile soap 6 parts, white sugar 
 15 parts, arum root 3 parts, white helle- 
 bore 1 part. Mix intimately and add 
 a few drops of oil of marjoram and 
 essence of ambergris. 
 
 Sternutatories for Cold in the Head. 
 I. Convert into a fine powder and mix : 
 Dried leaves of the witch-hazel 3 parts, 
 marjoram blossoms and lavender blos- 
 soms each 1 part. 
 
 II. Valerian leaves and snuff each 8 
 parts, oils of lavender and marjoram 
 each a few drops. 
 
 III. (Corrizino). Mix: Salicylic acid 
 J part, tannin 21 parts, and pulverized 
 borax 21 parts. Or, Sodium salicylate 
 10 parts, rose leaves 20 parts, and snuff 
 70 parts. 
 
 Perfumes for Cigars. I. Fluid 
 extract of valerian 1 ounce, tincture 
 of tonka beans 8 ounces, alcohol 23 
 ounces. 
 
 II. Valerianic acid 3 drachms, bu- 
 tyric aldehyde 10 minims, acetic ether 
 40 minims, and sufficient alcohol to 
 make 64 ounces of mixture. 
 
 III. Tincture of valerian 4 drachms, 
 butyric aldehyde 4 drachms, tincture 
 of vanilla 2 drachms, ethyl-nitrite 1 
 drachm, alcohol 5 ounces, and suffi- 
 cient water to make 16 ounces of mixt- 
 ure. 
 
 Turkish Smoking Tobacco. The pe- 
 
VINEGAR, 
 
 .culiar flavor of this tobacco depends 
 not so much, as is generally supposed, 
 on climatic conditions and a particular 
 sauce, as on the peculiar treatment of 
 the leaf As soon as the leaves have 
 been cut, they are moistened with soft 
 water, and then piled up in layers on 
 the floor of the tobacco house, a small 
 quantity of melilot (Herba meliloti) 
 being scattered upon each layer. In 
 a few days the tobacco begins to fer- 
 ment, becomes hot and diffuses a pun- 
 gent but stupefying smell. When 
 fermentation is complete, which is 
 recognized by the pile becoming cold, 
 the leaves are freed from the adhering 
 melilot, and then strung on cords or 
 packed in boxes. 
 
 The honey-aroma of the melilot has 
 been imparted to the tobacco during 
 fermentation, the cumarin of the meli- 
 lot forming very likely a new combi- 
 nation with the pectine substances of 
 the tobacco, since without fermenta- 
 tion the desired result is not obtained. 
 In some parts of Servia and Turkey 
 the tobacco, after cutting, is slightly 
 sprinkled with honey-water, and then 
 pressed for transportation into leather 
 bags or tin boxes. 
 
 To Impart to Common American 
 Tobacco the Flavor of Havana To- 
 bacco. To dissolve the gummy sub- 
 stance, which causes the bad taste, 
 soak the tobacco in cold or hot water 
 for 6 to 12 hours. The tobacco is then 
 freed from the gum by pressing, dried, 
 and steeped in an infusion of stems and 
 ribs of genuine Cuba tobacco, and 
 again dried. Leaves thus prepared are 
 equal to imported leaf, ana can be 
 used as wrappers for Havana fillers 
 without injury to the taste of the ci- 
 gars. 
 
 New Process of Preparing Tobacco. 
 Fill an enamelled sheet-iron pot with 
 pressed tobacco leaves and cover it 
 with a perforated lid to allow the es- 
 cape of the gases. Heat the vessel 
 gradually in a sand or water-bath so 
 that in the course of 6 hours the tem- 
 perature rises to 212 F., but in the 
 first 3 hours it must not rise above 180 
 F. The tobacco curls, loses weight, 
 and the leaves, which have assumed a 
 darker color, are covered with a gray- 
 ish dust. Tobacco thus prepared 
 burns well, has an agreeable odor, and 
 
 is especially suitable for the manu- 
 facture of cigars, since it is freed from 
 all injurious constituents. 
 
 Preparation of Leaf Tobacco for Ci- 
 gars. Prepare a lye from red and white 
 beech-ash, filter it while hot, and after 
 pouring it boiling hot over the tobacco 
 leaves let them soak for 24 hours. Then 
 rinse the tobacco in baskets with clean 
 water, and press and dry. When thor- 
 oughly dry the leaves are treated as fol- 
 lows : Boil for one hour over a moderate 
 fire 28 parts of beer-wort, i of powdered 
 cubebs, i of bay-berries, Aof bruised juni- 
 per berries, i of powdered coriander seed, 
 and i of storax. In another vessel boil 1 
 part of wine and \ of powdered cascarilla 
 bark previously soaked for 12 hours in 
 the wine and add the decoction to the first 
 liquor. Pour off the supernatant liquid; 
 when cold, moisten the tobacco with it. 
 
 To give to cigars, made from tobacco 
 
 S-epared as above, the odor of genuine 
 avana tobacco, proceed as follows : To 
 100 parts of French wine add 2 parts 
 of cascarilla bark and 2 of vanilla 
 previously grated with 15 of sugar. 
 Cork the flask and let it stand in a 
 warm place for 8 days. Then pour off 
 the liquid and add 50 parts of mastic 
 extract. Moisten the cigars with this 
 and pack them in boxes. Keep the 
 lids of the boxes nailed down to pre- 
 vent the access of air. 
 
 VINEGAR. MANUFACTURE or ORDI- 
 NARY AND FINE TABLE VINEGARS. 
 
 Altvater's Process of Manufacturing 
 Vinegar. A. Ar- 
 rangement of the 
 factory. The 
 building should 
 be soKd,with tight 
 fitting windows 
 and doors to pre- 
 vent outside at- 
 mospheric influ- 
 ences. The walls 
 should be covered 
 with hard plaster 
 or clay, not iime- 
 Avashed, but coat- 
 ed with asphaltum, and all wood and 
 iron painted with oil paint. 
 
 B. Utensils. It is best to use coni- 
 cal barrels, as represented by Fig. 42, 
 each of a capacity of about 2tJ5 gallons. 
 
 Fig. 42. 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 The use of smaller barrels is not ad- 
 visable, since experience has shown that 
 a uniform temperature cannot be kept 
 up in them, thus preventing the vinegar 
 from attaining the proper quality. 
 
 Only beech-wood but recently cut 
 should be used in the manufacture of 
 vinegar. The billets are sawed up in 
 pieces 18 inches long; these are again 
 divided into flat pieces 12 inches thick, 
 which are then converted by means of 
 a large plane into fine shavings, and 
 the latter lixiviated by steeping in 
 water for 2 days. 
 
 The barrels are arranged in the 
 Vinegar-room of the factory in such a 
 way as to allow a person to pass be- 
 tween them and the wall, so that, in 
 case a barrel leaks or a hoop bursts, 
 the damage can be conveniently re- 
 paired. The barrels should stand 
 about 3 feet above the floor, and a plat- 
 form about 5V feet high run in front of 
 them, to allow the workmen to pass 
 along and conveniently look into the 
 barrels. 
 
 The barrels are filled with shavings ; 
 and the latter stamped down so as to 
 leave a space of 6 inches between them 
 and the top of the barrel. Immedi- 
 ately upon the shavings comes a 
 perforated cover, so secured that no 
 fluid can transude between it and the 
 barrel-staves. The barrel is then cov- 
 ered with a cover of pine-wood joined 
 
 Fig. 43. 
 
 together with wooden nails and con- 
 sisting of two parts, the front part 
 being somewhat smaller than the back. 
 
 In the centre of the cover is a hole as 
 shown in Fig. 43. The perforated 
 cover is made of oak-wood 1 inch thick, 
 and strengthened with cross-pieces to 
 prevent its warping. The holes are 
 bored or, what is better, burned through 
 with a thin piece of iron, and should 
 be about 1 inch apart. In the four 
 large holes seen in the illustration 
 (Fig. 44) tubes ^ inch in diameter and 
 projecting 3 inches above the cover are 
 placed. At a distance of 2 inches be- 
 low the perforated cover a hole is 
 bored in the right side of the barrel, in 
 which is placed a thermometer, so that 
 
 Fig. 44. 
 
 the temperature can always be ob- 
 served. Twelve inches above the 
 bottom of the barrel is a large wooden 
 faucet, and under this stands a bucket 
 capable of holding 24 gallons without 
 becoming too full. Fig. 45 represents 
 the entire arrangement. When every- 
 thing is in order the barrels are acidu- 
 lated in the following order. 
 
 F'irxt Day. At 5 o'clock P. M. acetic 
 acid is heated in a tinned boiler to 122 
 to 167 F. Ninety gallons of this are 
 poured into each tank, 1 wine-glassful 
 of whiskey of 25 per cent, being 
 added to every bucketful. The bar- 
 rels are then allowed to stand quietly 
 till the next day. 
 
 Xcctl Dn\i The next morning at 7 
 o'clock the faucets are turned to test 
 whether all the acetic acid has been 
 absorbed by the shavings, or whether 
 there is any fluid in the barrel. Should 
 the quantity of fluid be very small 90 
 gallons of warm acetic acid with the 
 
VINEGAR. 
 
 addition of the above-mentioned quan- 
 tity of whiskey are again poured into 
 each barrel, and the latter allowed to 
 stand quietly for a few hours. At 2 
 o'clock P. M. 2i gallons of liquor are 
 drawn from each barrel into the buckets 
 standing under the faucets, and poured 
 back over the contents of the barrel. 
 This operation is repeated at 3 P.. M., 
 
 Taking barrels I., II., and III. as an 
 example," at 5 o'clock A. M. 2i gallons 
 are drawn from each barrel, that drawn 
 from No. III. being conveyed to the 
 storing-barrel in the cellar as finished 
 vinegar. The bucketful drawn from 
 No. I. is poured upon the contents of 
 No. II., and that from No. II. upon 
 those of No. III. Upon I. is poured 2i 
 
 Fig. 45. 
 
 but with an addition of a wine-glassful 
 of whiskey to each bucket. The oper- 
 ation is repeated in the following order: 
 
 At 4 P. M. as at 2 P. M., without an 
 addition of whiskey ; at 5 P. M., as at 
 3 P. M. ; at 6 P. M. as at 4 P. M. ; at 7 
 p. M. as at 5 P. M. ; at 8 P. M. as at 4 P. M. 
 
 Third Day. At 5 A. M. as at 3 P. M. ; 
 at 6 A. M. as at 2 p. M. ; at 7 A. M. as at 
 3 P. M. ; at 8 A. M. as at 2 P. M. ; at 9 
 A. M. as at 3 P. M. ; at 10 A. M. as at 2 
 p. M. ; at 11 A. M. as at 3 P. M. ; at 12 M. 
 as at 2 P. M. ; at 1 P. M. as at 3 P. M. 
 
 As will be seen from the foregoing, 
 at the even hours the 2 gallons are 
 poured back without an addition of 
 whiskey; while at the odd hours 1 
 wine-glassful of whiskey of 25 per cent, 
 is added to every 2i gallons poured back 
 over the contents of the tanks. This 
 process is continued for 2 or 3 days more, 
 after which the tanks will have become 
 heated and the thermometer show a tem- 
 perature of 86 to 100 F. The acidulat- 
 ing of the tanks is now finished and the 
 regular fabrication is proceeded with. 
 
 Three barrels are worked together so 
 that barrels I., II., and III., and bar- 
 rels IV., V., and VI., and so on, belong 
 to one set. 
 
 gallons of diluted whiskey of 7 percent. 
 Tralles. The same operation is repeated 
 at 6 o'clock A. M. At 7 A. M. 2i gallons 
 are drawn from each barrel, and poured 
 back upon its contents. At 8A. M. 2i gal- 
 lons are again drawn from each barrel. 
 To the quantity drawn from No. I. is 
 added i pint of whiskey of 25 per cent. 
 T., and is then poured upon the con- 
 tents of No. II. That drawn from No. 
 II., without an addition of whiskey, is 
 poured upon those of No. I. ; that drawn 
 from No. III., to which has been added 
 the same quantity of whiskey as to No. 
 I., is poured back into the same barrel. 
 At 10.45 A. M. 2i gallons are drawn 
 from each barrel, and poured back over 
 the contents. The operations are re- 
 peated as follows : 
 
 At 12 M. the same as at 5 A. M. ; at 
 1.45 P. M. the same as at 8.45 A. M. ; at 
 3 P. M. the same as at 12 M. ; at 4.30 
 P. M. the same as at 8.45 A. M. ; at 6 
 P. M. the same as at 10.45 A. M. ; at 7 
 p. M. the same as at 12 M. ; at 8 P. M. the 
 same as at 7 P. M. 
 
 As will be seen ready vinegar is al- 
 ways taken from No. III. 6 times a day, 
 namely at 5 o'clock,6,12,3,7,and 8, yield- 
 ing daily about 16 gallons of 45 to 50. 
 
358 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 The principal point in the manufact- 
 ure of vinegar is strict regularity. 
 Should it happen that through an ir- 
 regular pouring the temperature of the 
 barrels has sunk below 72 i F., the 
 barrels must be allowed to stand quietly 
 for I or 2 days until the proper temper- 
 ature has been restored. A temperature 
 of 70 to 77 F. should always prevail 
 in the factory, and one of 86 to 104 
 F. in the barrels. The vinegar should 
 be immediately conveyed into the cel- 
 lar. It is first stored in uncovered bar- 
 rels, filled loosely with shavings, where 
 it remains for 2 days, and is then drawn 
 off into storing-barrels. 
 
 rc 
 
 Fig. 46. 
 
 Plunging " Vinegar Producers" In 
 the vessel A (Fig. 46) moves a plunger E 
 
 Erovided with a perforated bottom. It 
 i filled with shavings and periodically 
 immersed in the vinegar-stock con- 
 tained in A. The air enters through 
 the aperture C, and passes out through 
 the pipe F. A and E are hermetically 
 closed by the rubber ring D, fastened 
 either to A or E. 
 
 Utilization of Cork-waste in the 
 Manufacture of Vinegar. The wood 
 shavings generally used in the manu- 
 facture of vinegar act vigorously for 
 some time, but lose perceptibly in effi- 
 ciency. This is explained by the fact 
 that the shavings as soon as permeated 
 with the fluid press down the layers 
 beneath them by their increased weight, 
 and thus prevent a free access of air. 
 
 It has, therefore, been recommended 
 to replace the shavings by cork-waste. 
 The elasticity of cork is increased by 
 its becoming moist, and a compression 
 of the filling need not be feared even in 
 very deep barrels. In the cracks 
 of the cork many small organisms are 
 found, and among them a large quan- 
 tity of vinegar- bacteria, in consequence 
 of which barrels filled with cork- waste 
 become quickly acidulated. 
 
 Concentration of Vinegar by Means 
 of Calcium Chloride. Two glass 
 vessels, one containing vinegar and the 
 other calcium chloride, are placed in a 
 glass holder. The vinegar gradually 
 yields water to the calcium salt. 
 
 To Prepare the Yellow Color for 
 Coloring Vinegar. Melt 250 parts of 
 pulverized r'hite sugar in a boiler over 
 a clear fire. When the syrup is thick 
 enough to drop slowly from the stirring 
 implement add 1000 parts of water, and 
 after mixing this thoroughly with the 
 sugar syrup the color is ready for use. 
 
 To Prepare Acetic Ether. Place 600 
 parts of sodium acetate in a tubulated 
 glass retort; pour over it 420 parts of 
 crude sulphuric acid mixed with 340 
 parts of spirit of wine, and distil until 
 370 parts of fluid have passed over. 
 Then compound the distillate with a 
 solution of potassium acetate in water 
 until the ether is separated, and rectify 
 this over 5 parts of calcined mag- 
 nesia. 
 
 Quick Vinegar Process. Mix alcohol 
 of 80 per cent, with 6 parts of water 
 and TI&O part of yeast, or some other fer- 
 ment containing nitrogen, and heat the 
 mixture to about 80 F., and cause it to 
 trickle from cords fastened to a shelf 
 placed over beech-wood shavings soaked 
 in vinegar and packed in a cask bored 
 with holes to permit a circulation of 
 air. The oxidation of the alcohol soon 
 raises the temperature to about 100 F., 
 which occasions a free circulation of 
 air among the shavings. The mixture 
 is passed 3 or 4 times through the cask, 
 and in about 36 hours the conversion 
 into vinegar is completed. The oxida- 
 tion of the alcohol in this process is 
 found to be arrested by the presence of 
 essential oils, or of creosote and similar 
 antiseptic substances. 
 
 Production of Vinegar by Means of 
 Bacteria. The process first introduced 
 
VINEGAR. 
 
 359 
 
 by Pasteur consists in planting (sowing) 
 acetic acid bacteria (mother of vinegar) 
 upon a mixture of wine and vinegar, or 
 water with 1 per cent, of acetic acid and 
 2 per cent, of alcohol and mineral nour- 
 ishing salts, and, after the conversion 
 into acetic acid of half the alcohol 
 used, adding alcohol daily in small 
 portions until the fluid contains enough 
 of it to give the vinegar the degree 
 demanded in commerce. In order to 
 add the alcoholic fluid without de- 
 stroying the bacteria by immediate 
 contact, two gutta-percha tubes per- 
 forated on the sides are fastened upon 
 the bottom of the vat. 
 
 Mr. E. Wurm, after having obtained 
 satisfactory results by experimenting 
 in a small way, commenced the fabrica- 
 tion of vinegar on a large scale accord- 
 ing to Pasteur's method. The mode 
 of manufacture is as follows: Large 
 wooden vats are charged with 50 gal- 
 lons of the above vinegar mixture, and 
 the nourishing salts consisting of 0.01 
 per cent, each of the phosphates of po- 
 tassium, calcium, and magnesium. The 
 vats are covered with tight wooden lids. 
 The air is admitted through small holes 
 in the sides. The bacteria are planted 
 by means of a thin spatula of wood, and 
 the fluid heated to 77 to 86 F., while 
 the room in which the vats are located 
 has a permanent temperature of 86 F. 
 The percentage of acetic acid (1 per 
 cent.) in the setting-fluid, recommended 
 by Pasteur, was found too low, since a 
 fluid so weakly acidulated is easily at- 
 tacked by saccharomyces mycoderma, 
 which prevent the growth of the acetic 
 acid bacteria and the formation of vin- 
 egar by a direct combustion of the al- 
 cohol present into carbonic acid. Ex- 
 periments proved that with an addition 
 of 2 per cent, of acetic acid a pure 
 growth of bacteria was obtained, while 
 at a lower percentage, up to 1.2 per 
 cent, of acid, the formation of sacchar- 
 omyces mycoderma increased, and that 
 of bacteria decreased. The addition of 
 2 per cent, of alcohol recommended by 
 Pasteur was found to be sufficient. The 
 formation of vinegar progressed now in 
 the following manner : The planted 
 bacteria covered the entire surface in 24 
 to <36 hours, the temperature of the fluid 
 rising to 93^ F., and a strong smell of 
 acetic acid becoming at the same time 
 
 perceptible. The practical yield of 
 acetic acid is less than that promised 
 by theory. The loss of alcohol by this 
 method amounts to 10 to 15 per cent., 
 while, when casks filled with shavings 
 are used, it is from 12 to 15 per cent, in 
 the production of ordinary acetic vin- 
 egar spirit of 23 per cent. ; 2 per cent, 
 by volume of alcohol furnished acetic 
 acid of 1.7 to 1.8 per cent., the produc- 
 tion of stronger vinegar requiring there- 
 fore an addition of alcohol. This must 
 only be done when but to J of 1 per 
 cent, of alcohol is present in the mixt- 
 ure, and the fluid coming in contact 
 with the bacteria must never contain 
 over 0.5 per cent, of alcohol, since, as 
 Pasteur has already shown, a too strong 
 addition of alcohol may easily destroy 
 the formation of vinegar. The alcohol 
 to be added is distributed in the fluid 
 by means of a strong perforated porce- 
 lain tube reaching from the bottom of 
 the vat to the surface of the fluid ; not 
 more than A of 1 per cent, should be 
 added daily. When the vinegar has 
 acquired the desired degree of strength 
 it is drawn off into a clarifying vat in 
 order to free it from turbidity caused 
 by adhering particles of the plant. 
 The other vat is then thoroughly 
 cleansed with brushes and charged 
 anew. The principal requisites for the 
 success of the operation are pure bac- 
 teria seed, a uniform temperature of 
 86 F., and a well-regulated addition 
 of alcohol. By strictly observing these 
 precautions this new process can be 
 very easily carried out, and offers the 
 following advantages : 1. It produces 
 vinegar in one-half the time of any 
 quick process formerly used. Ten vats 
 yield daily as much acetic acid as 3 
 barrels 9| feet high, filled with shavings ; 
 but the cost of ten vats, with all appur- 
 tenances, is scarcely one-half that of the 
 casks with the necessary filling. 2. By 
 a suitable arrangement of the vats less 
 room is required. 3. By reason of the 
 vats being emptied in 10 to 15 days and 
 cleansed, the vinegar-eels (vibrios) have 
 no time to increase in a disturbing 
 manner. It is only necessary to see 
 that the fungus seed is not taken from 
 a fluid containing eels, and this can be 
 easily avoided since the eels are percept- 
 ible to the naked eye. If, in spite of 
 all precautions, the fluid in one of the 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 vats should become eely, it is drawn off j 
 and heated by means of boiling water 
 or steam to 140 F., and the vat itself 
 scoured with boiling water and a little 
 sulphuric acid, and the fluid, after cool- 
 ing, replaced in it. 4. While the acid- 
 ulation of a new barrel filled with 
 shavings requires 4 to 8 weeks, and the 
 vinegar produced during the first 4 
 weeks has always a strong taste of 
 wood, Pasteur's method furnishes at 
 once a good product, without any loss 
 of vinegar, and the work can be in- 
 terrupted at any time, it being only 
 necessary to provide a stock of fungus 
 seed. The manufacture is simpler, 
 surer, and cheaper, but requires a daily 
 and accurate controlling of the working 
 vats. 
 
 White Wine Vinegar is produced in 
 France from light wines. A little vine- 
 gar is poured into a cask partially 
 open at the top, together with 5 to 6 gal- 
 lons of white wine, which has been 
 allowed to trickle over wood shavings. 
 In a few days, during which the tem- 
 perature is maintained at about 80 F., 
 a fresh quantity of wine is poured in, 
 and in the course of 12 to 14 days 
 half the vinegar contained in the cask 
 is drawn off and replaced by a fresh 
 portion of wine. In this way an occa- 
 sional renewal of the air in the upper 
 part of the cask is provided for. The 
 Rectification is found to proceed more 
 rapidly in old casks than in new, which 
 is attributed to the presence of bacteria 
 or mother of vinegar. 
 
 To Prepare Acetic Acid. Mix 26 
 parts of pulverized potassium sulphate 
 and 15 of crude sulphuric acid, evapo- 
 rate to dryness and melt the residue; 
 then cool and pulverize it and add 24 
 parts of dry sodium acetate obtained by 
 heating moderately about 40 parts of 
 ordinary sodium acetate, and distil in a 
 sand-bath, thoroughly cooling the re- 
 ceiver until 14 parts of acetic acid have 
 passed over. 
 
 To Prepare Excellent Vinegar. 
 Bruise 200 parts of large raisins, 12 
 parts of crude tartar, and 100 parts of 
 wheat malt, and work them to a stiff 
 paste by adding hot water. Let this 
 stand for half an hour, then pour 1800 
 to 2000 parts of hot water over it, and 
 let it stand for 3 hours. Now pour it 
 in a barrel provided with a faucet and 
 
 standing near a warm stove. When 
 the mixture is as warm as the hand 
 will bear add 300 parts of yeast and 
 stir thoroughly. After 3 hours, when 
 all the yeast is fermented, add 400 parts 
 of sharp wine-vinegar, let it stand for 
 24 hours, and then draw off the fluid. 
 Remove the yeast and cleanse the barrel 
 by rinsing it with water. Replace the 
 fluid in the barrel, bung tightly, and 
 let it stand quietly for 14 days, when 
 the vinegar will be sour. After it has 
 laid for 6 weeks draw it off, and to 
 improve the vinegar repeat the opera- 
 tion several times. Vinegar thus pre- 
 pared is nearly equal to the best wine- 
 vinegar. 
 
 Vinegar from Potatoes or Rice. Grate 
 3500 parts of potatoes and add 2000 to 
 2500 parts of water and 20 parts of sul- 
 phuric acid. Let the mixture boil for 
 6 hours, and run it through a strainer 
 into a cooler, in order to separate the 
 fluid from the sediment. The fluid is 
 then drawn off into another vat and 
 placed in a room having a temperature 
 of 79 F., and I part of potash dissolved 
 in water and 560 parts of yeast are 
 added, some more yeast being added in 
 the course of 3 days to promote fermen- 
 tation. Now fill "a barrel loosely with 
 beech-wood shavings or grape husks 
 saturated with strong vinegar, and 
 pour, every morning and evening, 200 
 parts of the fermented fluid over them 
 until the barrel is full. Then draw off 
 200 parts and pour them into another 
 vessel half-filled with vinegar, and from 
 this into another barrel filled loosely 
 with beech-wood shavings, where the 
 vinegar is allowed to cool and clarify, 
 and is then ready for use. 
 
 Fine Table Vinegars. Anise Vine- 
 gar. Convert the following ingredients 
 into a coarse powder: Anise seed 5 parts, 
 caraway seed i part, fennel and coriander 
 seed each J part ; pour 5 parts of alco- 
 hol and 45 parts of good strong vinegar 
 over the powders, close the flask her- 
 metically, and let the whole digest in a 
 warm place for 6 to 8 days, shaking 
 frequently. Then strain the liquid off, 
 press out the residue, filter the vinegar, 
 aijd put it up in bottles. 
 
 'Aromatic Vinegar. Chop up leaves 
 of rosemary, sage, and peppermint each 
 I part, cloves, zedoary, and angelica 
 root each J part ; place all in a suitable 
 
J.INEGAR. 
 
 361 
 
 flask, into which also pour 30 parts of J the whole stand for a few days, and 
 crude vinegar, let it macerate for 4 days, j then filter through blotting paper, 
 then press out and filter. The product This vinegar must be kept in well- 
 
 is a clear fluid of a reddish-brown color. 
 
 Dragonsicort (Estragon) Vinegar. 
 Pick the young tender leaves of dragons- 
 wort (Artemisia dracunculus L.) when 
 the first flower-buds appear. Bruise 
 the leaves, place them in a suitable 
 flask, pour good wine- vinegar over 
 them, and let the whole stand for a few 
 days. Then strain the vinegar through 
 a cloth, filter, and bottle. The bottles 
 must be filled entirely full, as other- 
 wise the vinegar will not keep. 
 
 Another Receipt. Mix 11 parts of 
 oil of dragonswort with 3000 parts of 
 pure good vinegar, let the whole stand 
 for a few days, and then filter the vine- 
 
 gar 
 
 Compound Dragonswort Vinegar or 
 
 closed bottles and in a cool place. 
 
 Effervescing Vinegar. Dissolve 500 
 parts of loaf sugar in 5000 parts of 
 water, add lemon juice and rind cut up 
 in the proportion of 1 lemon to 1 pound 
 of sugar, 11 parts of the best cinnamon, 
 and 121 parts of beer-yeast thoroughly 
 washed. Place the whole in a barrel, 
 and after agitating thoroughly let it 
 ferment at a temperature of 55 to GO 
 F. When fermentation has ceased the 
 vinous fluid is strained, and mixed with 
 1000 parts of best wine-vinegar pre- 
 viously boiled up, and yeast in the pro- 
 portion of 1 spoonful to 5 pounds of 
 sugar. The fluid is then distributed in 
 several earthenware pots and exposed 
 to a temperature of 77 to 88 F., until 
 
 Herb Table Vinegar. Comminute leaves it has been converted into strong vine- 
 of dragonswort 100 parts, bean leaves gar. This, while remaining in the 
 25 parts, leaves of basil and marjoram I pots, is mixed with 200 parts of French 
 each 12^ parts, bay leaves and orris brandy and after two days bottled in 
 root each 25 parts, cloves 31 parts, cin- small bottles. To each pound of this 
 namon 61 parts, and shallots 25 parts, vinegar are added f part of crystallized 
 Put all in a demijohn, pour 700 to 750 tartaric acid pulverized and \ part of 
 parts of pure good vinegar over it, let i bicarbonate of sodium. The bottles, as 
 it stand on a warm place and digest 5 j soon as the respective portion of the 
 to 6 days, frequently agitating it. Then j mixture has been added to each, must 
 strain the vinegar through linen, press ' 
 out the residue with the hands, add 25 
 parts of alcohol, and filter. Keep the 
 vinegar in well-corked bottles in a cool 
 place. 
 
 Spiced Dragonswort Vinegar. Cut 
 up and treat as above leaves of drag- 
 onswort 100 parts, fresh lemon peel 40 
 parts, cinnamon and coriander seed 
 each 131 parts, fennel seed 31 parts, 
 cardamons $ part, shallots 25 parts, 
 and vinegar 700 to 750 parts. 
 
 English Spiced Vinegar* I. Pour 
 400 parts of pure vinegar and 50 parts 
 of strong alcohol over the following 
 ingredients, previously pulverized : 
 Cloves 25 parts, cassia bark, mace, and 
 orange blossoms each 31 parts. Let 
 the whole stand in a warm place for 1 
 week, then strain through a cloth, press 
 out the residue, and filter. 
 
 II. Mix oils of cloves 96 drops, ber- 
 gamot 70 drops, and camphor 151 
 grains, triturated with 4J ounces of 
 strong acetic acid and 15 drops of acetic 
 ether. Add to this mixture 2 gallons 
 of pure vinegar, mix thoroughly, let 
 
 be corked as quickly as possible, and 
 then stored in a cool place. 
 
 Herb Vinegar as Prepared in the 
 Northern Part of Germany. Chop fine 
 the leaves of marjoram and thyme each 
 131 parts, bean leaves 61 parts, leaves 
 of mint, basil, and celery each 31 
 
 Krts, and 11 parts of fresh shallots. 
 ur 600 to 700 parts of good vinegar 
 over the herbs, and treat in the same 
 manner as given for compound dragons- 
 wort vinegar. 
 
 Herb Vinegar as Prepared on the 
 Rhine. Chop up leaves of fresh drag- 
 onswort and woodroof each 20 parts, 
 borage 11 parts, fresh mint 31 parts. 
 Pour 600 to 750 parts of good vinegar 
 over them, and then proceed as 
 given for compound dragouswort vine- 
 gar. 
 
 Lemon Vinegar. Remove the rindi 
 from 5 to 6 fresh lemons, press out the 
 juice and let.it stand in a tall covered 
 glass until clarified. Then pound the 
 rinds to a paste and pour 1 gallon of 
 good vinegar over it. Let it stand for 
 a few days, then pour off the vinegar, 
 
362 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 mix it with the clear lemon juice, filter 
 and bottle the vinegar. 
 
 Orange Vinegar. Peel 5 to 6 fresh 
 oranges, press out the juice in a tall 
 glass, and let it stand covered to 
 clarify. Free the rinds from the white 
 parts, pound them to a paste and pour 
 1 gallon of good vinegar over it, and 
 proceed in the same manner as given 
 for lemon vinegar. 
 
 Pine-apple Vinegar. This excellent 
 vinegar soon loses its flavor, and it is 
 therefore best to prepare a small quan- 
 tity at a time and keep it in hermet- 
 ically closed bottles. 
 
 Bruise the slices of pine-apple and 
 pour over them a considerable quantity 
 of vinegar. Close the vessel as tightly 
 as possible and let it stand 12 hours; 
 after which pour off the vinegar and 
 filter it. 
 
 Raspberry Vinegar. Crush perfectly 
 ripe raspberries to a paste, let it stand 
 24 to 36 hours; then put 1 pound of 
 this paste into a jar, pour li to 2 gal- 
 lons of vinegar over it, place it in a 
 warm place, but not in the sun, and 
 shake frequently. After standing for 
 several days strain the mixture 
 through a cloth, add 1 gill of alcohol, 
 mix thoroughly, and filter the vinegar. 
 The bottles should be entirely filled 
 and kept in a cool place. 
 
 Strawberry Vinegar. Mash thor- 
 oughly ripe strawberries, let the paste 
 stand in a warm place for 24 hours, 
 then press out the juice, bottle and let it 
 stand for a few days to ferment and to 
 allow the slimy constituents to separate. 
 Then filter the juice and put it in well- 
 closed glass bottles which should be 
 scrupulously clean, where it will keep 
 for a long time. When it is to be used 
 for flavoring, add a sufficient quantity 
 of it to good vinegar. 
 
 Vanilla Vinegar. Triturate in a 
 porcelain mortar 4 parts of vanilla 
 bean cut up with some white sugar, add 
 2 parts each of pulverized cloves and 
 cinnamon, put all in a flask and digest 
 it with 30 parts of strong alcohol for 
 several days. Then add 250 to 270 
 parts of good vinegar, let it stand for 
 some time, shaking it frequently, then 
 strain through a cloth and finally filter. 
 This vinegar is usually colored red. 
 
 Vinaigre a la Bordin. Chop up: 
 Leaves of dragonswort 20 parts, bay 
 
 leaves 10 parts, angelica root 6i parts, 
 capers and anchovies each 10 parts, 
 shallots 6^ parts, and pour 150 parts 
 of good vinegar over them. Let the 
 whole stand for 3 days, shaking fre- 
 quently, then strain through a cloth, 
 press out the residue, and filter the 
 vinegar. 
 
 Vinaigre a la Ravigote. Leaves of 
 dragonswort 25 parts, bay leaves 6i 
 parts, capers 13J parts, anchovies cut 
 up fine 26 i parts, cloves and horse- 
 radish each 3J parts, white mustard 
 seed pounded fine I part, shallots 13^ 
 parts, and good vinegar 300 parts. 
 Proceed as above. 
 
 WASHING AND SCOURING. MANU- 
 FACTURE OF WASHING-BLUE, ETC. 
 
 To Wash Satin, Silk Ribbons, Bro- 
 cade, and Silk Damask. Rub the mate- 
 rials either with yelk of egg or Venetian 
 soap, wash them in tepid water, then 
 rinse, and dry. . Now dissolve good gum- 
 tragacanth in equal parts of wine-vine- 
 gar and spring water, and strain the 
 solution through a cloth ; it should not 
 be too thick. Dip the fabric in this 
 solution so that it is uniformly moist- 
 ened, then squeeze out the gum water, 
 and by means of a brush spread the 
 fabric upon a smooth board and let it 
 dry quickly in the sun or near the 
 stove. But ribbons should be ironed 
 dry. 
 
 To Wash Silk Ribbons mixed with 
 Gold and Silver Threads. Before wash- 
 ing brush the ribbons with honey water 
 to protect the colors. Then wash in a 
 solution of beef's gal land soap; manipu- 
 late the ribbon with one hand while 
 pouring rain water over it with the 
 other hand. After washing dip them 
 in clear gum water, wrap them be- 
 tween two cloths around a mangle 
 roller, and mangle them for a short 
 time ; then fasten some weight to one 
 end of the ribbons and hang them up 
 to dry. 
 
 To Wash Silver and Gold Lace. 
 Place the lace in curdled milk for 24 
 hours. Dissolve shavings of some good 
 soap in 1 quart of rain water, add a 
 comparatively large quantity of honey, 
 1 beef's gall, and heat the whole for 1 
 hour. In case it is too thick add rain 
 
WASHING AND SCOUEING. 
 
 363 
 
 water, so that a thinly-fluid paste is 
 formed. Allow this to stand for 12 
 hours, then brush the paste over the 
 wet laces. Wrap a ruoist cloth around 
 a mangle roller, around this the lace, 
 and around it another moist cloth. 
 The lace is then mangled, being occa- 
 sionally dampened with rain water and 
 several times brushed over with the 
 paste. Now soak gum-tragacanth in 
 water for 24 hours, strain it through a 
 cloth, add an equal quantity of sugar, 
 and, when this is dissolved and the 
 solution has become clear, immerse the 
 laces in it ; then mangle them smooth 
 between 2 clean cloths and then hang 
 them up to dry. 
 
 To Wash Gold Laces. Place them 
 over night either in urine or wine, and 
 then wash them in the same manner as 
 above. Color and gloss are restored 
 by heating in a pot 1 pint each of water 
 and whiskey, to which has been added 
 pulverized gum- Arabic and some 
 saffron; spread the laces upon a table 
 and apply the solution uniformly with 
 a small brush, and then hang them up 
 to dry. 
 
 To Wash White Silk Crape. Soak 
 over night in a solution of soap in 
 milk, then sponge without rubbing 
 and lay it in a solution of soap ahd 
 water for 12 hours, squeeze gently, and 
 place it between 2 damp cloths in a 
 basket. Put some sulphur in an iron 
 pot, and place the latter in a barrel or 
 tall vessel covered with a cloth folded 
 4 times. Place the wet basket contain- 
 ing the crape over the sulphur, which is 
 now ignited and allowed to burn some 
 time. The crape is then taken out, 
 stretched evenly over a board covered 
 with cloth, and pressed down upon it 
 with a sponge dipped in white boiled 
 starch. 
 
 To Wash White Gauze. Place the 
 gauze between 2 cloths together with 
 some fine shavings of Venetian soap, 
 put all in a tin dish, and pour luke- 
 warm water over it; place a cloth 
 folded double on top, load it down with 
 a weight, and, when the water has be- 
 come cold, pour it off and add luke- 
 warm water, repeating this operation 
 several times. Now let it stand over 
 night under the pressure of the weight, 
 then rinse the gauze several times with 
 lukewarm water. The further treat- 
 
 ment and sulphuring is the same as 
 given for silk crape. 
 
 Fine Jfit^lin, Linen, and Batiste are 
 first soaked in soft water. Then boil 
 and skim 1 pound of soap, i ounce of 
 alum, and 1 ounce of carbonate of 
 potassium until a plastic mass is ob- 
 tained, which is formed into cakes or 
 balls. Apply this to the fabric, rub- 
 bing with the grain ; then squeeze it 
 and repeat the operation several times, 
 and finally, to prevent adhering parti- 
 cles of soap from turning the fabric 
 yellow, rinse several times in fresh 
 water, putting a few drops of indigo 
 solution in the last rinsing water. The 
 fabric is then squeezed out, beaten be- 
 tween the hands, and then dried in the 
 shade. 
 
 To Wash Velvet. Boil, with con- 
 stant stirring, 2 beef-galls with some 
 soap and honey in a sufficient quantity 
 of water. Place the velvet upon a 
 clean damp board and freely apply the 
 above mixture with a rag. Then wrap 
 the velvet around a mangling roller 
 and mangle it until the dirt has disap- 
 peared; then draw it through clean 
 water, mangle again, and then hang up. 
 When half dry moisten the velvet with 
 isinglass dissolved in water, wrap it in 
 a cloth, mangle it until dry, and raise 
 the pile by rubbing with a cloth. 
 
 Velvet, which has become hard and 
 rough by rain or mud, is made soft in 
 the following manner: Moisten the 
 back of the velvet. Secure a hot iron 
 with the flat smoothing part up and 
 draw the moist velvet across it. The 
 heat converts the water into steam 
 which penetrates through the pile of 
 the velvet and separates the tangled 
 threads. 
 
 To Wash Veils. White veils are 
 washed in lukewarm soap water, gently 
 wrung out, rinsed in cold water, blued, 
 starched, beaten half dry between the 
 hands, and then hung up to dry en- 
 tirely. Black veils are immersed in 
 warm water in which beef gall has 
 been dissolved, then rinsed in cold 
 water, and stiffened with gum water, 
 beaten half dry between the hands, 
 and then hung up until entirely dry. 
 
 S-ilk and Silk Fabrics are best washed 
 in tea water and rinsed clean in whiskey 
 in which some sugar has been dissolved, 
 mangled, and ironed while still moist; 
 
364 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 or they are washed in strong bran water 
 to which some pulverized alum has 
 been added ; or by spreading the fabric 
 upon a clean table, soaping it thor- 
 oughly with a woollen rag, using luke- 
 warm water, and rubbing always in 
 one direction. When the dirt is re- 
 moved the soap is washed off with a 
 rnge dipped in cold water. After 
 other side of the fabric has been 
 cleansed in the same manner it is rinsed 
 in cold water, spread out, and dried in 
 the shade. The iron used for ironing 
 should be but half warm, and paper 
 be laid between the iron and the fabric. 
 
 Embroidered Fabrics, or Muslin, 
 Linen, etc., Woven with Gold should 
 be soaked in cold water, so as to pre- 
 vent a disarrangement of the threads ; 
 all rubbing and wringing must be 
 strictly avoided. When this has been 
 done make suds of lukewarm water 
 and Venetian soap, place the em- 
 broideries in it, and squeeze them out. 
 Then place them in fresh water and, 
 after 4 hours, squeeze them out and let 
 them dry. Then sew linen around the 
 edges of each piece and stretch them in 
 a frame for finishing. 
 
 Silk Stockings are washed in warm 
 water with good soap, and then rinsed 
 in fresh water until all the soap has 
 been removed. Then dissolve a piece 
 of litmus as large as a hazel-nut in 1 
 quart of water and draw the stockings, 
 turned outside in, several times through 
 the solution. Then hold the stockings 
 over sulphur burning in a pan filled 
 with hot coals, and let the fumes pass 
 through them. Then turn the stock- 
 ings inside out, draw them upon frames, 
 smooth them, while still moist, with a 
 glass roller, and let them dry in the 
 sun. 
 
 To Wash Taffeta. White taffeta is 
 soaked in soft water and then washed 
 with wheat bran and Venetian soap. 
 It is then rinsed, sulphured, and fi- 
 nally stiffened with gum tragacanth, 
 fleabane seed, and Saxony blue, then 
 mangled between two cloths and 
 lightly brushed. By another method 
 white taffeta is washed three times in a 
 solution of 4| ounces of Venetian soap 
 in 2 gallons of rain water prepared by 
 boiling and cooling off to lukewarm. 
 
 Slack Taffeta is washed three times 
 in a like solution of Venetian soap in 
 
 water which has stood over night, and 
 then stiffened with gum-Arabic and 
 fleabane seed, and mangled and 
 ironed. Another method of washing 
 black taffeta as well as all other black 
 silk fabrics is by rubbing the fabric 
 with a sponge dipped in beer, mint- 
 water, or whiskey, then mangling dry 
 between two cloths, and finally iron- 
 ing on the wrong side. 
 
 To Polish Gold and Silver Lace. To 
 restore gold lace, spangles, and but- 
 tons, which are worn so that the white 
 ground shines through, treat If ounces 
 of shellac and 12 grains each of 
 dragon's-blood and turmeric root with 
 strong alcohol, and decant the ruby- 
 red colored solution. The objects to 
 be restored are then brushed over with 
 some of the color by a camel's-hair 
 brush, and then a hot flat-iron is 
 passed over, so that the objects shall 
 only be gently warmed. Gold em- 
 broidery is treated in the same man- 
 ner. Detached gold knobs and but- 
 tons are fastened on a fork, brushed 
 over with the gold lac, and then dried 
 over red-hot coals with the above-men- 
 tioned precautions. 
 
 Silver Lace or Embroidery is pol- 
 ished with a powder obtained as fol- 
 lows: Alabaster is strongly calcined 
 and, while hot, placed in corn-whiskey. 
 A white powder is obtained, which is 
 dried over the flame of a spirit-lamp 
 and placed in a linen bag. The lace 
 is then dusted over with the powder 
 and brushed with a velvet brush. 
 
 To Wash Laces. Cover an ordinary 
 wine bottle with fine flannel and 
 stitch it firmly around the bottle, tack 
 the outer edge of the lace to the flan- 
 nel, rolling it smoothly around the 
 bottle, then tack the inner edge 
 smoothly down. Cover over the lace 
 with a piece of very fine flannel or 
 muslin, and rub the whole gently with 
 clean suds made of Castile soap. If t he 
 lace is very much discolored, fill the 
 bottle with hot water, place it upright 
 in a sauce-pan of suds, and let it boil 
 for a few minutes; then place the bot- 
 tle under a running hydrant, to rinse 
 the lace thoroughly. Make some 
 starch about as thick as arrow-root for 
 an invalid, melt in it a small quantity 
 of white wax and a little loaf-sugar. 
 Plunge the bottle 2 or 3 times in the 
 
WASHING AND SCOURING. 
 
 365 
 
 starch, pressing out the excess with 
 the hands; then dip the bottle into 
 cold water, remove the outer covering 
 from the lace, fill the bottle with very 
 hot water, and set it in the sun to dry. 
 When nearly dry take it off the bot- 
 tle carefully, pick it out with the 
 fingers and lay it in a cool place to 
 dry. 
 
 To Wash Point Lace. Fix the lace 
 in a frame, draw it tight and straight, 
 make a warm suds of Castile soap and 
 apply it gently to the lace with a fine 
 brush ; when clean on one side wash 
 the other in the same manner. Then 
 rinse by throwing clean water on it in 
 which some alum has been dissolved. 
 Then make some thin starch, apply it 
 to the wrong side of the lace, and, 
 when dry, iron it on the same side, and 
 pick it out with the fingers or a bod- 
 kin. To clean the lace, if not very 
 dirty, without washing, fix it in the 
 frame as above and go over it with 
 fine bread-crumbs, and,when done, dust 
 out the crumbs. 
 
 To Whiten Lace. Iron the lace 
 slightly, then fold it, and sew it in a 
 clean linen bag, and place this for 24 
 hours in pure olive oil. Then boil the 
 bag in a solution of soap and water for 
 15 minutes, rinse in lukewarm water, 
 and finally dip in water containing a 
 small quantity of starch. Then take 
 the lace from the bag and dry it 
 stretched on pins. 
 
 To Cleanse Feathers. Take for 
 every gallon of clean water 1 pound 
 of quicklime, mix them well together, 
 and when the undissolved lime is 
 precipitated in a fine powder pour off 
 the clear lime water for use. Put the 
 feathers to be cleansed in another tub 
 and add to them a quantity of the 
 clear lime water sufficient to cover the 
 feathers about 3 inches when well 
 immersed and stirred about therein. 
 The feathers when thoroughly moist- 
 ened will sink down and should re- 
 main in the lime water 3 or 4 days, 
 after which the foul liquor is drawn 
 off, the feathers rinsed with clean 
 water, and then dried. 
 
 Cleansing and Rosing Salt, for Red 
 Cloths which have become dirty or 
 decolorized by use, is prepared as fol- 
 lows: Dissolve in 1000 parts by weight 
 of water 32 parts by weight of sorrel salt, 
 
 16 of crystallized soda, and 5 of potash. 
 When all are dissolved add 2 parts of 
 cochineal and filter the solution. 
 Moisten the red woollen fabrics and 
 brush them with a hard brush, rub- 
 bing always with the grain, until the 
 dirt is removed, and then wash them in 
 pure water. 
 
 This renovator possesses all the 
 qualities ascribed to it by the inven- 
 tor; the effect is quick and complete, 
 the red color regaining its original 
 
 freshness and purity. The small 
 quantity of cochineal in the mixture 
 exerts but little influence and may 
 just as well be left out. 
 
 To Wash Genuine Pearls. Scatter 
 s-alt over the pearls laid on a clean 
 linen cloth, tie this together with a 
 cord, and rinse in lukewarm water 
 until all the salt is dissolved and 
 washed out; then dry the pearls at an 
 ordinary temperature. 
 
 Dye-starch and Preparation and 
 Use of Crimson Dye-starch. To dye 
 white dresses Actus recommends a 
 dye-starch of his invention, by means 
 of which any lady can dye her dress 
 with little expense and trouble. He 
 gives the following directions for pre- 
 paring crimson dye-starch and how to 
 use it: Mix 3 parts of fuchsine into a 
 thick paste with water, and dissolve 
 in it 20 parts of glycerine by constant 
 stirring, which will be done without 
 the aid of alcohol as a solvent. When 
 the fuchsine is dissolved, and the com- 
 pound lias assumed a uniform crimson 
 color, add with constant stirring 150 
 parts of starch previously rubbed 
 fine, spread the whole upon unsized 
 paper, and dry in the air. To dye a 
 dress after it has been washed prepare 
 a small quantity of the dye-starch 
 with boiling water in the same manner 
 as ordinary starch, and starch with it 
 the dress to be dyed. It is then dried, 
 sprinkled, and ironed with a hot tiat- 
 iron. 
 
 Washing with Water-glass. This lias 
 been highly recommended of late and 
 gives excellent results. Soak the clothes 
 over night in a solution of 1 part of 
 water-glass in 20 to 30 parts of water at 
 122 to 140 F. In the morning add 
 hot water and manipulate the clothes 
 with a stick, drain them off, which will 
 remove nearly all the dirt, and a little 
 
360 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 rubbing with soap will complete the 
 work. It is advisable to treat the clothes 
 once more with a weak solution of water- 
 glass ( 1 part to 50 of water of a tempera- 
 ture of 113 to 122 F.), and then to 
 boil them in clean water. Clothes 
 washed in this manner are brilliantly 
 wliiu, require no bleaching, and besides 
 the process is considerably cheaper 
 and takes less time than the ordinary 
 one with soap and water. Colored 
 woollen fabrics are washed in a solu- 
 tion of 1 part of water-glass in 50 of 
 water of a temperature of 100 to 
 122 F. 
 
 Palme's Process of Washing. Soak 
 the clothes for 15 minutes in clean 
 water. Dissolve U ounces of washing 
 powder and 7 ounces of soap in 9 gallons 
 of boiling water. In 1 gallons of this 
 hot solution rinse the clothes wrung 
 out from the clean water and wring out 
 again. Then immerse them in 2 gal* 
 Ions of the solution mixed with 1 gal- 
 lon of cold water, then in 4 gallons 
 of the boiling-hot solution, and rinse 
 in cold water. 
 
 The washing powder used consists of 
 30 per cent, of borax, 65 per cent, of 
 commercial soda, and 5 per cent, of 
 wheat or corn-starch. 
 
 New Wash Process. Boil 2 pounds 
 of soap to a paste, dilute this with 6i 
 gallons of water, add 1 table-spoonful 
 of spirit of turpentine and 2 table-spoon- 
 fuls of ammonia, and beat the mixture 
 thoroughly. The water must be as 
 warm as the hand will bear. The dry 
 clothes are then soaked in this for 2 
 hours previously to washing them. 
 The tub containing them must be well 
 covered. The suds can be again heated, 
 and used once more by adding i table- 
 spoonful of spirit of turpentine and 1 
 table-spoonful of ammonia. 
 
 To Wash Dresses of Fast-colored Silk. 
 I. Mix 1 quart of liquid ammonia in 2i 
 gallons of soft water with sufficient 
 soap. Wash the dress thoroughly in 
 this solution and rinse it in running 
 water if possible. 
 
 II. Rub the dress with yelk of egg 
 and wash it in clean lukewarm water, 
 rinse in cold water, and dry at an or- 
 dinary temperature. Soak for 1 2 hours 
 & ounce each of gum tragacanth and 
 fleabane in water; then boil to a thin 
 starch, through which draw the dress, 
 
 and iron it between two cloths until 
 dry. 
 
 To Make Washed Silk Glossy. Dis- 
 solve 1 ounce of gum-Arabic in \ gallon 
 of water, and add 2 table-spoonfuls of 
 beef's gall and i ounce of fleabane seed. 
 Boil the whole for a quarter of an hour 
 and, when cold, spread a thin coat of it 
 on the silk with a sponge, and smooth 
 with a linen cloth. 
 
 To Restore the Color of Fabrics. 
 Sponge the silk or woollen fabric with 
 a solution of sal-ammoniac in half its 
 quantity of water. Then with a piece 
 of the same material rub the stains 
 until they are dry, and the color will 
 be restored. 
 
 To Wash Pearl Embroideries. Boil 
 8J ounces of shavings of ordinary soap 
 with 1 pound of beef's gall into a uni- 
 form mass, then add 1 ounce each of 
 Venetian turpentine, honey, and pul- 
 verized sugar, stir together and boil for 
 a few minutes. Pour this soap into a 
 dish, and when dry cut it into cakes. 
 To wash an embroidery, dissolve as 
 much of the soap as required by boil- 
 ing it in soft water, allow the solution 
 to cool, and apply it with a sponge. 
 
 To Bleach or Whiten Clothes which 
 have turned Yellow. Soak the clothes 
 in buttermilk, allowing them to re- 
 main for some time, coarser articles 
 requiring a longer time than finer. 
 Then wash with soap in tepid water, 
 rinse in cold water and dry. Repeat 
 the operation if the first application is 
 not entirely successful. For very fine 
 clothes the buttermilk must not be too 
 sour. 
 
 Clark's Wash for Carpets. Solution 
 I. Dissolve 10 parts of soap in 20 of 
 water, and add 3i parts of soda and i 
 each of liquid ammonia and spirit of 
 wine. 
 
 Solution II., which is the actual 
 cleansing liquid, consists of 4 parts of 
 liquid ammonia and 3 of alcohol di- 
 luted with water. 
 
 The last solution is first used, and 
 when the dirt loosened by it has been 
 removed the soap solution is applied. 
 Carpets thus treated regain their original 
 colors in all their freshness, the entire 
 operation of washing and drying a large 
 carpet requiring biit 2 hours, and the 
 carpet need not be taken up. 
 
 To Wash tit raw and Chip Hats. Make 
 
WASHING AND SCOURING. 
 
 367 
 
 a strong lather of Castile soap on a 
 woollen rag and rub it on the hat until 
 the dirt is removed. Wash the soap off 
 the hat with clean water. Then dry 
 with a cloth until the hat is only 
 moderately moist, and finally place it 
 in a sulphuring barrel to be bleached. 
 
 The sulphuring barrel is prepared 
 as follows: Cover the bottom of a 
 barrel with stone or sheet-iron and 
 ignite some sulphur upon it. Sus- 
 pend the hat for 30 minutes, so that the 
 sulphur fumes but not the flame can 
 reach it, and cover the barrel tightly. 
 The hat, when sufficiently sulphured, 
 is taken out and made glossy by press- 
 ing with a warm flat-iron. 
 
 Experiments in Washing Woollen 
 Fabrics. Opinions about washing 
 woollen fabrics differ so widely, and 
 the receipts and directions given in 
 practical journals vary so much and 
 are so contradictory, that we decided to 
 test the matter thoroughly. The most 
 varying degrees of heat, from the hot- 
 test to the coolest temperature, were 
 made use of in this experiment ; and, 
 further, all the recommended cleansing 
 agents, such as soap, borax, spirit of 
 sal-ammoniac, benzine, and all mixt- 
 ures of the latter. The results were so 
 decidedly and distinctly marked that 
 the following may be given as the 
 principal guiding points : 
 
 1. The suds used for washing must 
 be as hot as possible. 
 
 2. To remove greasy impurities, as 
 perspiration, etc., borax is of so little 
 use that its employment is sheer waste ; 
 even pure soap-suds is better, but the 
 best of all is soap-suds with spirit of 
 sal-ammoniac. The latter actually 
 effects wonders in quickly dissolving 
 dirt on special places in woollen under- 
 shirts, etc., otherwise hard to cleanse, 
 and restores and brightens the colors. 
 On the other hand, for washing white 
 woollen articles, nothing is equal to 
 borax; soap-suds with borax used boil- 
 ing hot gives to white woollen articles 
 a looseness of texture and a brilliant 
 white which they frequently do not 
 possess when new. 
 
 3. If shrinking is to be entirely 
 avoided and the texture of the fabric is 
 to be even looser than when new, the 
 articles must be prepared for quick 
 drying by pressing them repeatedly be- 
 
 tween soft drilling. Under no circum- 
 stances should woollen articles be dried 
 in the sun, as that renders them hard 
 and close ; it is best to dry them in a 
 moderate draught ot air, and in winter 
 in a warm room, not too close to the 
 stove. 
 
 Separate the white from the colored 
 woollens. For the latter prepare a suds 
 of about 2i ounces ofyellowsoap(Elaine 
 soap) in about 2 gallons of boiling soft 
 water, and divide in two tubs, in one 
 of which add a small tea-spoonful of 
 spirits of sal-ammoniac for each quart 
 of suds. When the articles (only 3 or 
 4 pair of stockings or an equivalent at 
 one time) are placed in the suds, they 
 must be so hot that the hand cannot be 
 borne in it, and the articles must be 
 squeezed, turned, and manipulated with 
 clean wooden sticks or spoons. They 
 are then squeezed out as much as pos- 
 sible, and brought into the tub con- 
 taining the other half of the suds with- 
 out an addition of spirits of sal-ammo- 
 niac. This will be generally sufficiently 
 cooled off to allow of the articles being 
 thoroughly squeezed out, but under no 
 circumstances must they be wrung out 
 with a turning motion. The articles, 
 to accelerate their drying, are now 
 pressed between 3 or 4 soft dry cloths, 
 until the latter absorb no more moist- 
 ure. Then every article is drawn into 
 the shape it is to have; undershirts, for 
 instance, being stretched in the width, 
 this being still more necessary in regard 
 to the sleeves, as they have a tendency 
 to become long and narrow. In hang- 
 ing on the line the shape of the article 
 must also be carefully taken into con- 
 sideration ; jackets and undershirts, for 
 instance, must be hung only crosswise, 
 that is, the collar to the right and the 
 tail to the left. In summer a few 
 hours suffice for drying. 
 
 For washing white woollen articles 
 add 1 tea-spoonful of pulverized borax 
 to 1 quart of soap-suds, and for the rest 
 proceed exactly as above. Should the 
 second suds be found too soapy some 
 hot water may be added. It is of great 
 importance that, after washing about 3 
 sets of articles, the suds should be re- 
 heated, which is accomplished by add- 
 ing to the first from the second, and 
 replacing this by fresh. Even suds 
 which have become almost black can 
 
368 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 be further utilized by allowing the dirt 
 to settle, then carefully pouring off the 
 suds, and using them for the first wash- 
 ing of coarse colored clothes. 
 
 Any one wishing to test the efficacy 
 of these methods should make a trial 
 with articles not thickened by pre- 
 vious washing in lukewarm water, and, 
 if possible, new ones. 
 
 To Wash Cotton and Muslin Prints 
 Without Injury to the Colors. Heat 
 soft water in a copper boiler to such a 
 degree that the hand can be barely 
 borne in it, and pour in the eighth 
 part by weight of the fabrics to be 
 washed of wheat-bran. Then place 
 the articles in the water and let this 
 come to a boil, during which the fab- 
 rics should be frequently turned with 
 a wooden stick. Now let the water 
 cool off sufficiently to allow of the 
 dresses, etc., being washed in it ; then 
 rinse them in soft water, and dry at an 
 ordinary temperature. The dresses, 
 etc., are by this process washed as 
 clean as with soap without the least 
 injury to the colors. 
 
 Panama Essence for Cleansing and 
 Washing Clothes is prepared by dis- 
 solving 15 pounds of Marseilles soap 
 and li pounds of carbonate of sodium 
 in 25 gallons of hot water, and adding 
 1 pound of extract of quillaya bark. 
 
 This gives solution No. I. In an- 
 other vessel mix 4 gallons of beef's 
 or sheep's gall with li quarts of am- 
 monia of 22 per cent. ; heat and skim 
 the mixture, and, when cold, com- 
 pound it with 4 gallons of spirit of 
 wine of 90 per cent. This gives so- 
 lution No. II. For use mix i part 
 of solution No. I. with of solu- 
 tion No. II., and compound the mixt- 
 ure with a suitable quantity of aro- 
 matic essence. 
 
 Cleansing Fluid for Tissues, etc. 
 The parts of mineral oils having a low 
 boiling point are treated with chlorine 
 gas until a sample, after shaking with 
 alkali, emits no disagreeable odor. 
 The whole is then treated with milk 
 of lime and next with soda, or air is 
 forced through it. It is then distilled, 
 and the product passing over at less 
 than 212 F., having a weak, agreeable 
 odor, may be perfumed. 
 
 Use of Tin-salt for Removing Rust- 
 stains from Clothes. HiJnnann has 
 
 made experiments to determine the 
 value of tin-salt for removing rust 
 stains from clothes as compared with 
 that of the usual means, oxalic acid 
 and sorrel salt. For this purpose he 
 prepared the following solutions : 
 
 1 a. 1 part of tin-salt in 10 parts of water. 
 
 Ib. 
 
 2 a. 
 2b. 
 2c. 
 
 3 a. 
 3b. 
 3c. 
 
 oxalic acic in 10 
 tin-salt in 20 
 oxalic acid in 20 
 sorrel salt in 20 
 tin -salt in 40 
 oxalic acid in 40 
 sorrel salt in 40 
 
 The rust stains to be removed were 
 in old ironed towels, which, to all ap- 
 pearance, had been in them for some 
 time, and in a condition as generally 
 found in clothes. Pieces as large as a 
 hand containing the stains were cut out 
 of the towels, and to prevent errors five 
 of such pieces placed in every solution, 
 care being also taken to place stains of 
 equal intensity in equally strong solu- 
 tions. All solutions were used cold. 
 
 The result of the observations was as 
 follows : 
 
 In the oxalic acid solution even the 
 strongest stains disappeared com- 
 pletely in 1 b. in about 20 minutes; in 
 2 b. in 25, and in 3 b. in 30 minutes. 
 
 In the sorrel salt solutions, 2 c. and 3 
 c., the stains disappeared in about 30 
 minutes. 
 
 In the stains treated with tin solu- 
 tion only a slight change was percept- 
 ible in the stains, even after an immer- 
 sion of 3 hours, and they remained 
 plainly visible after 3 days. 
 
 By a completely saturated solution 
 of tin-salt the rust stains were removed 
 after an immersion of 3 days. 
 
 Such stains as had been in the tin- 
 salt solutions for 3 hours, and then 
 carefully washed, disappeared in 10 to 
 15 minutes after being placed in the 
 oxalic acid solutions. 
 
 With ink stains the result was the 
 same. From these experiments the 
 conclusion may be drawn that tin-salt 
 deserves but little recommendation for 
 removing rust and ink stains. 
 
 Manufacture of Washing Blue. 
 Washing blue usually consists of 
 starch colored with Parisian blue. Its 
 manufacture presents no difficulties 
 whatever, so that every one after a 
 few trials can prepare it. 
 
WASHING AND SCOURING. 
 
 369 
 
 
 
 
 CH 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 05 
 
 
 P 
 
 H 
 
 w 
 
 B 
 
 
 S. * 
 
 
 
 
 
 (K 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 I" 
 
 n 
 
 e and alkalii 
 
 st and gall-m 
 
 3' 
 
 (B 
 
 3] 
 
 si 
 
 ll 
 
 - . 
 
 Stearine. 
 
 P 
 
 3 
 
 2. 
 
 * 
 
 II 
 
 p Je 
 
 s 
 
 3 
 
 P 
 
 S 
 
 S- 
 
 
 Sijj 
 
 
 f 
 
 
 e; 
 
 
 i 
 
 ? 
 
 f 
 
 3' 
 
 
 *! 
 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 f 
 
 |,|l 
 
 . 
 
 ?^5 
 
 3? 
 
 OB 
 
 
 
 ? 
 
 
 
 fa 
 
 3.^ S" 
 
 1 
 
 *<r o 
 
 n ^ 
 
 '5' 
 
 
 
 p 
 
 T 
 
 
 
 fj 
 
 in 
 
 HI ^* 
 
 1 
 32. 
 
 3 
 
 &n 
 II 
 
 acid ; th 
 B concen 
 
 inrous v 
 chlorine 
 
 
 
 j 
 
 
 I 
 
 *5" o 
 
 JT 
 
 *o 
 
 -s 
 
 r^- Q 
 
 i * 
 
 
 
 Pj 
 
 
 t 1 ^ 
 
 <* 3 
 
 ^p 
 
 5" 
 
 
 ll 
 
 P 
 
 
 
 E 
 
 
 s' 
 
 ^" S 
 
 ^3 
 
 5" 
 
 * 
 
 <M 
 
 ct J* 
 
 
 
 B 
 
 
 p 
 
 IE. 
 
 2. 
 
 j; 
 
 c 5- 
 
 S a 
 
 "" 3- 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 S2 
 
 c o 
 
 I 
 
 Ba 
 
 II 
 
 C 
 
 
 C 
 
 s 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 s 
 
 
 P. T 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 -- 
 
 
 
 
 *g 
 
 
 
 ,Jf 
 
 g 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 P S 
 
 K 
 
 
 2" **X 
 
 
 ^J 
 
 
 H" 
 
 v^ 
 
 
 
 f* 
 
 1 
 
 o 
 
 5" 
 
 OR 
 
 ||| 
 
 C 
 
 2. 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 
 i 
 
 t 
 
 
 r 
 
 fT -* 
 
 1 
 
 g; 
 
 *|| 
 
 
 
 5' 
 
 
 5' 
 
 1 
 
 ^ 
 
 a 
 
 || 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 
 o 
 2, 
 
 j 
 
 o 
 g. 
 
 P 
 
 s 
 
 1 
 
 E 
 
 s" 
 
 P 
 
 *^ ^ 
 
 3 
 
 s. 
 
 c "*" ~ 
 
 p<- 
 
 
 5_ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ly 
 
 II 
 
 3 "^ 
 
 r'~>~ 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 2. 
 
 E. 
 
 
 a. 
 
 
 &o 
 
 2. x 
 
 2,1. 
 
 "p 2. 
 
 B S 
 
 C. O 
 
 < acid dr 
 loistened 
 
 ?=r 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 1 
 
 
 I 
 
 "S. 
 3' 
 
 ? 
 
 1 
 
 ig, and after a w' 
 ;urpcntiue and wat 
 
 ine water, ccordii 
 alternate washing 
 
 op by drop upon tl) 
 ia rubbed off with 
 
 ne as for cotton, 
 d hydrochloric aci 
 x>l is naturally colo 
 
 if the fabric permi 
 
 or liquid ammonia 
 
 
 
 -water, spiritof sa 
 ammoniac. 
 
 S 
 
 
 3S 
 
 ^ ^ 
 
 o 
 
 5 ^ & 
 
 sr 
 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 Sg- 
 
 ** s^ 
 
 - & s;S- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 flllll 
 
 If 
 
 ^ 
 
 s 3 ~ 
 
 
 ^> 
 
 
 1 
 
 III 
 
 
 
 i"5 5 ?r^'5 
 
 S" 
 
 e> 
 
 "S.-JJ5 
 
 
 S& 
 
 
 i 
 
 Fi g 
 
 
 
 y?iii 
 Biffi 
 
 re and tint of 
 
 stain previous 
 
 ll 
 
 As above. 
 
 ^ 2 
 
 p, 
 
 &g 
 
 2 ? 
 C c; 
 
 M. 3 
 
 s' 
 
 
 it 
 Ij 
 
 Hi 
 
 ill 
 
 
 g 
 
 r 
 
 r !T Z = = =- 
 
 & 
 
 CT 
 
 Sp^ 
 
 
 ^0 
 
 
 
 
 "^s 2j 
 
 
 
 2 = = - P" 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 
 t^j 
 
 
 
 
 res S- 03 
 
 
 
 1 a . r F 
 
 
 
 5 V 
 
 
 
 
 ? 
 
 apWjL 
 
 
 
370 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL EECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 The apparatus required consists of a 
 trough 4 feet long, 1 foot wide on the 
 bottom, and 2 feet wide on the top, and 
 about 25 to 30 drying boards 3 feet long, 
 1 foot wide, and 1 inch thick, and pro- 
 vided on 3 sides with small ledges; a 
 drying frame constructed of 2 ladders 7 
 feet high with rounds li inches apart ; 
 and finally a barrel which can be 
 turned around an axle passing through 
 the head and bottom. In summer the 
 blue is dried in airy lofts, but in winter 
 in heated rooms. 
 
 The Parisian blue must be in the 
 form of a paste and have a consistency 
 of at least 30 per cent. Place in the 
 trough 20 pounds each of potato starch 
 and residue from the manufacture of 
 wheat starch, both perfectly white, 40 
 pounds of Parisian blue in the form of 
 paste, 2 pounds of indigo-carmine, and 
 alike quantity of gum-Arabic dissolved 
 in water. Then add sufficient water 
 for the whole to form a compound of 
 somewhat greater consistency than the 
 Parisian blue. Knead this with the 
 hands into a homogeneous compound j 
 free from lumps, place enough of this 
 upon the drying boards to fill them ! 
 about half, distribute the mass uni- 
 formly over their whole surface by 
 beating and shaking them, and then 
 place them in the drying frames. The 
 ladders of the latter are placed about 2 
 feet apart and connected on the top by 
 cross-pieces, so that they will stand by 
 themselves. The paste remains here 
 until half dry, which in the open air 
 will require about 2 hours, but a 
 less time in a heated room. The half- 
 dry paste is then cut into square pieces. 
 This is accomplished with a roller 4 
 inches long on which are arranged 16 
 small knife blades at equal distance 
 from each other. With this instru- 
 ment the paste is cut into equally wide 
 strips and then into squares, which are 
 then entirely dried. But, as the product 
 in this state would not present a fine 
 appearance, it is polished by placing 
 30 pounds of the cakes in the mentioned 
 barrel or drum together with li to If 
 ounces of Parisian blue finely pulver- 
 ized. The barrel is revolved until the 
 cakes have acquired a uniform and fine 
 appearance. The excess of Paris blue 
 and broken pieces is removed by sifting, 
 and the product is ready for the market. 
 
 Liquid Wash Blue is easily prepared 
 in the following manner: Pulverize 
 8.3 parts of solid indigo in a porcelain 
 dish, and add 33.^ parts of sulphuric 
 acid. Let it stand for 6 hours with 
 frequent stirring with a wooden or 
 glass rod, and pour into a flask con- 
 taining gallon of water not too cold. 
 Throw powdered chalk into the flask 
 until effervescence ceases, in order to 
 remove the sulphuric acid, which is in- 
 jurious to the clothes. The whole is 
 then allowed to stand quietly for a few 
 days, then filtered through blotting 
 paper, and can be kept for years with- 
 out fear of spoiling. 
 
 Several other Receipts for Liquid 
 Washing Blue. I. Dissolve 1 part of 
 indigo-carmine in 10 of water and then 
 add i of gum-Arabic. 
 
 II. Concentrated Liquid Washing 
 Blue. Bengal indigo 2 parts, fuming 
 sulphuric acid 9, gum-Arabic 4, water 
 50. 
 
 III. Ordinary Liquid Washing Blue. 
 Dissolve 2 parts of indigo in 9 of fum- 
 ing sulphuric acid and mix the solu- 
 tion with 350 parts of water and 8 of 
 gum-Arabic. 
 
 Washing Powders. Washing Crystal 
 is a solution of borax and soda in 
 water. 
 
 Lustrine Alsacienne (Starch Gloss) 
 consists of spermaceti, gum-Arabic, and 
 borax each If ounces, glycerine 4i 
 ounces, distilled water H pints, and 
 some sweet-scented essence. The mixt- 
 ure is used with or without an addition 
 of starch. If it is to be mixed with 
 starch add 4 spoonfuls of lustrine to 4 
 ounces of boiling starch. 
 
 WASTE AND OFFAL, UTILIZATION OF. 
 
 Fabrication of Different Kinds of 
 Lampblack from Waste in Working 
 Coal-tar. The oil last obtained in dis 
 tilling coal-tar and freed as much as 
 possible from naphthaline is burned in 
 a furnace of special construction (Figs. 
 47 and 48) for manufacturing lamp- 
 black. In the division a of this fur- 
 nace is an iron plate which must be 
 constantly kept red hot. Immediately 
 over it is a tube e through which the 
 oil drops upon the plate where it is de- 
 composed, and the smoke (soot) enters 
 
WASTE AND OFFAL, UTILIZATION OF. 
 
 371 
 
 the chambers 1, 2, 3, 4, through small 
 apertures/. 
 
 When the quantity of oil to be de- 
 composed is exhausted, the furnace is 
 allowed to stand for a few days when 
 
 (Fig. 48) is used, in which the pitch 
 is burned, the air being as much ex- 
 cluded as possible. The material is 
 thrown in through the doors a a, the 
 smoke (soot) passes through the chim- 
 
 Fig. 47. 
 
 Cross-section of Furnace No. 1. a, door with small apertures ; 6, iron plate ; c, tube for the oil ; d } 
 windows or iron doors; /, apertures for vhe soot ; g, fire-place ; h, chimney for the gases; z, 
 chimney for the smoke ; k, evolution of the soot into the chambers ; I, oil reservoir. 
 
 the windows d in the chambers 1, 2, 3, 
 4 are opened. The finest lampblack 
 suitable for lithographic purposes is in 
 No. 4. No. 3 contains that fit for 
 printing ink, while a coarser quality is 
 in No. 2 and No 1. The latter is sifted 
 and sold as ordinary lampblack. The 
 calcined lampblack used by paper 
 manufacturers is also made from the 
 best quality obtained by this process. 
 The lampblack is firmly pressed into 
 closed tubes of sheet-iron, the covers of 
 which are luted on with fine clay and 
 provided with a small aperture. The 
 tubes are placed in a furnace and sub- 
 jected to a strong heat, whereby the 
 empyreumatic oils are expelled and the 
 lampblack becomes inodorous. The 
 tubes, after cooling off for a few days, 
 are opened and the soot taken out. 
 This is half-calcined lampblack. To 
 calcine it entirely it is again pressed 
 into tubes and once more thoroughly 
 heated. The tubes are opened in two 
 days, when the entirely calcined mate- 
 rial will be obtained in compact pieces. 
 Manufacture of Lampblack from 
 Asphaltum Pitch or Blacksmiths' Pitch. 
 A furnace of a different construction 
 
 ney b and the flue g into the chambers 
 1, 2, 3, 4, where the soot is deposited. 
 When all the pitch has been burned, 
 the furnace is allowed to stand for a few 
 days before it is opened. The iron 
 doors d are then slightly opened for the 
 admission of air, and later on, when the 
 lampblack is entirely cold, are thrown 
 wide open. The finest lampblack suit- 
 able for the use of manufacturers of 
 leather and oil-cloth will be found in 
 chamber No. 4, while the coarser qual- 
 ity in the other chambers, after sifting, 
 is sold as ordinary lampblack. The 
 finest quality of this may also be con- 
 verted into calcined lampblack by the 
 same process given above. 
 
 Description of the Furnace. It may 
 be built of stone or bricks, but the in- 
 terior b must be lined with strong iron 
 plates. The doors d are of strong sheet- 
 iron, as also the door a, which is pro- 
 vided with a few apertures for the in- 
 troduction of air required for com- 
 bustion. The flue g leads into soot 
 chambers 1, 2, 3, 4, arranged in the 
 same manner as Fig. 47. 
 
 In regard to the amount of lamp- 
 black obtained we give the following 
 
372 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 statement: Four hundred pounds of oil Manufacture of Artificial Manures 
 
 yield about 20 pound 
 lampblack, 
 
 from Residues in the Working of Coal- 
 The various sodie residues impreg- 
 
 Fig. 48. 
 
 Front Yiew of the Furnace, aa, doors ; 6, chimney ; c, flue leading to the soot chambers ; /, 
 apertures for the admission of air. 
 
 pounds of Nos. 3 and 4. Upon the iron 
 plate remains a coke-like residue which 
 must be removed, and can be used as 
 fuel. Five hundred pounds of pitch 
 yield about 200 pounds of lampblack 
 of all qualities. The coke-like residue, 
 which must be broken oft' with a ham- 
 mer and chisel, amounts to about 440 
 pounds, and can also be used as fuel. 
 
 Manufacture of Various Kinds of 
 Lampblack from the Resinous Sodic 
 Residues in the Working of Coal-tar. 
 The dry residues, containing potash and 
 soda and rich in oil and resin, obtained 
 in the various processes of purifying 
 and distilling crude coal-tar oils *and 
 creosote, can also be burned to lamp- 
 black in the furnace. The residues, to 
 make them more inflammable, are 
 mixed with some asphaltum or black- 
 smiths' pitch. The lampblack formed 
 is also conducted into the chambers 1, 
 2, 3, 4, and there allowed to cool. In 
 quality it does not differ from that pro- 
 duced by burning blacksmiths' pitch. 
 The furnace, after the lampblack has 
 been taken out, is closed and the black 
 cinders containing soda and potash are 
 completely burned with the aid of wood 
 until they show a grayish-white color. 
 The residues, when cold, are pulverized 
 and used in the fabrication, of manure 
 urn! artificial guano. 
 
 nated with very finely powdered carbon 
 obtained in purifying the crude light 
 and heavy coal-tar oils are pulverized, 
 the powder sifted and stored in a dry 
 place. The lime remaining in the 
 filtering bag in preparing the caustic 
 lye is also thoroughly dried, pulverized, 
 and sifted. The wood ash is also sifted 
 and mixed with the-above residues in 
 the following proportions: One part 
 of sodic residues, 2 of caustic lye residues, 
 and 4 of sifted wood-ash. Upon this are 
 poured 2 parts of sulphuric acid residues, 
 i. e., residues obtained by treating the 
 crude oils with sulphuric acid. The 
 mixture, which becomes quite heated, 
 is thoroughly worked with iron rakes 
 until it is again entirely dry. Now 
 take 2 parts of bone-flour, 2 of animal 
 charcoal, and pour upon them 4 parts 
 of acid residues, stirring constantly. 
 Next evaporate, under constant stirring, 
 fresh bullock's blood until it can be 
 rubbed to a fine powder. Pass it 
 through a sieve, and add 4 parts of it to 
 the above mixture, and finally 3 parts 
 of crude sulphate of ammonium, and 4 
 of pulverized pigeon dung. Mix the 
 I whole thoroughly and, to separate the 
 I coarser parts, pass it repeatedly through 
 | sieves. This manure is equal to guano 
 j in a!} respects, 
 1 We give in the following a few simi- 
 
WASTE AND OFFAL, UTILIZATION OF. 
 
 373 
 
 lar compositions: I. Sodic residues 1 
 jart, caustic lye residues 2, wood-ash 4, 
 animal charcoal 2, bone^nour 2, acid 
 residues 6, dry bullock's blood 4, crude 
 sulphate of ammonium 3, pigeon's 
 dung 4. 
 
 Manure for Meadows, a. With Wood- 
 ash. Wood-ash 30 parts, caustic lye 
 residues 60, acid residues 30, sodic resi- 
 dues 7, crude sulphate of ammonium 3. 
 
 cium hydrate, and introduce steam as 
 long as the distillate passing over 
 smells of ammonia. Then empty the 
 still, put in fresh ammomacal liquor, 
 and proceed as before. The concen- 
 trated aniinoiiiacal liquor is then neu- 
 tralized with sulphuric acid and filtered, 
 whereby many lar-like substances are 
 separated, and finally evaporated in 
 shallow lead pans ^Figs. 4tJ and 50). 
 
 Fig. 49. 
 
 Ground-plan of Evaporating Furnace, a, grate ; 6, flues ; c, chimney ; e, damper to regulate 
 
 the fire. 
 
 Fig. 50. 
 
 Longitudinal Section of Evaporating Furnace, a, grate ; b, flue ; c, chimney ; d, cover-plates ; 
 e, sand ; /, lead pan for the sulphate of ammonium ; g t flue for the vapors escaping into the 
 chimney ; h. top vault ; i, reservoir for ammoniacal water ; k, escape-pipe for the concentrated 
 ammonia ; I, damper for regulating the fire. 
 
 b. With Peat Ash. Peat-ash 30 parts, 
 lye residues 60, acid residues 30, sodic 
 residues 7, crude sulphate of ammoni- 
 um 3. 
 
 Utilization of Ammoniacal Liquor 
 from Goal-tar. Bring the ammoniacal 
 water gained in gas-works and in the 
 distillation of coal-tar into large cast- 
 iron stills, add 2 to 4 per cent, of cal- 
 
 As soon as the mass begins to be crys- 
 talline it is drawn off through the 
 faucet k into shallow cast-iron boilers, 
 and under constant stirring evaporated, 
 whereby many empyreumatic oils es- 
 cape, and the mass assumes a much 
 darker appearance. It is then poured 
 out upon stone slabs and allowed to 
 congeal. The product forms crude 
 
374 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 commercial sulphate of ammonium. 
 To prepare the p untied article from it, 
 itmust be redissolved, filtered and again 
 evaporated. The purified sulphate of 
 ammonium is used for the production 
 of the liquor aininonise of commerce. 
 For this purpose a mixture of equal 
 parts by weight of sulphate of ammo- 
 nium and calcium hydrate is placed in 
 a cast-iron retort and slowly heated. 
 The developed gas is conducted through 
 a series of VVoulfl bottles filled with 
 pure water. 
 
 The fluid in the first bottles generally 
 assumes a somewhat yellowish color, 
 while that in the other bottles, in which 
 the gas tubes reach to the bottom and 
 the ammoniacal gas must pass through 
 the water which becomes thoroughly 
 saturated, remains entirely colorless. 
 
 The water absorbs 670 times its vol- 
 ume of ammoniacal gas, and the specific 
 gravity sinks from 1.0 to 0.780, but 
 liquor ammonite, as a general rule, 
 has a specific weight of only 0.960. 
 
 In England the ammoniacal liquor 
 of gas works is neutralized with hydro- 
 chloric acid in large covered vats, hav- 
 ing a capacity of 100,000 to 125,000 gal- 
 lons, and the mixture uniformly mixed 
 by agitating with a stirring apparatus. 
 The carbonic and hydrosulphuric gases 
 which are expelled are, on account of the 
 bad smell of the latter and its unwhole- 
 someness, conveyed through pipes with 
 which the vats are provided into a 
 furnace where the hydrosulphuric acid 
 is burned, forming water and sulphurous 
 acid. After a few days, when the tarry 
 constituents and the separated sulphur 
 have settled, the fluid is drawn off into 
 lead pans resting upon iron plates. 
 The latter are laid upon sand over a 
 heated flue, by which the sand, plates, 
 and pans are uniformly heated. The 
 ammoniacal liquor is exactly neutral- 
 ized with milk of lime or concentrated 
 liquor ammonise and then evaporated, 
 whereby many tarry constituents and 
 volatile oil, as impure benzole, etc., are 
 separated. The fluid, as soon as it has 
 obtained a specific gravity of 1.25 to 
 1.30, is run off through large filters into 
 special crystallizing vats, which are so 
 placed that the mother-lye can run 
 back into the evaporating pans. 
 
 After about 8 days crystallization is' 
 so far progressed that the mother-lye I 
 
 can be drawn off and the crystals formed 
 placed upon large linen filters to 
 drain off. The mass when nearly dry 
 is entirely dried upon cork hurdles, and 
 forms the crude sal-ammoniac, having 
 a yellowish-gray appearance. This 
 crude product is further purified by 
 sublimation. For this purpose the 
 crystals are heated in a cylindrical iron 
 boiler covered with an iron dome lined 
 with fire-clay, and provided in the 
 centre with a small aperture closed by 
 an iron rod, which is removed during 
 the operation to allow the non-condens- 
 able vapors to escape. The crude sal- 
 ammoniac rises in vapor below a red 
 heat, and condenses upon the dome in 
 the form of the fibrous cake known as 
 sal-ammoniac. The sublimation re- 
 quires 5 to 8 days. A boiler in which 
 1000 pounds of crude sal-ammoniac can 
 be sublimated at one time has a diam- 
 eter of 3 to 6 feet. But as this sal- 
 ammoniac generally contains some 
 empyreumatic substances, it is redis- 
 solved in water and treated with steam, 
 whereby all volatile foreign substances 
 are removed. The hot fluid is then 
 filtered through fresh calcined animal 
 charcoal, again evaporated in lead pans, 
 and allowed to crystallize. The product 
 obtained is perfectly white and inodor- 
 ous. 
 
 Ammonia, Tar, and Other Products 
 of Distillation from the Gases of Coke- 
 ovens. To preserve the gases de- 
 veloped in the coke-ovens r (Fig. 51) 
 from decomposition, a fine jet of steam 
 is forced towards them in the absorbing 
 pipe a. A second jet of steam may 
 also be conducted from the lower to the 
 upper part of the pipe. With the as- 
 sistance of these two jets the pressure 
 and draught in the oven are regulated. 
 From the absorbing pipes the gases 
 pass into a spacious channel e, the top 
 of which / is cooled with ammoniacal 
 liquor. A strong exhauster g sucks the 
 gases from this, and blows them into a 
 second channel A, nearly as w T ide as e, 
 placed above the cooling water of the 
 first channel, and also cooled on top by 
 ammoniacal liquor i. From here the 
 gases pass into a large condenser k, the 
 pipes of which are kept cool by means 
 of water, flowing towards the gases. 
 The gases after passing through sev- 
 eral systems of pipes, the cross section 
 
WASTE AND OFFAL, UTILIZATION OF. 375 
 
 of which becomes smaller in accord- [ the compound contains either phos- 
 ance with the process of cooling, are phoric acid or superphosphate of lime 
 finally forced through dilute sulphuric The acid is expelled by boiling and 
 acid into the lower chambers, where the residual filtered. 
 
 lig. 51, a. 
 
 Fig. 51, b. 
 
 they are deprived of the last traces of 
 condensable admixtures. 
 
 After the gases have left the con- 
 deuser they can be used in any man- 
 ner desired. The solution of sulphate 
 of ammonium is allowed to stand for a 
 few days in order to separate the tar 
 and oils. It is then pumped into i 
 and /, where as mentioned it is used 
 for condensing the gases, and is at the 
 same time evaporated. 
 
 To Regain Hydrochloric Acid used 
 in the Manufacture of Gelatine from 
 Bones. The bones are treated, not 
 with hydrochloric acid alone, but with 
 a mixture of this with sulphuric acid. 
 Of the latter so much is added that 
 
 Process of Ptwlncing Tartrate of 
 Calcium and X/tin'tof Wine from Wine- 
 lees, The thickly fluid mass remain- 
 ing in the fermenting tuns after fer- 
 mentation and drawing off of the clear 
 wine, and the press-cakes remaining in 
 the press-bags in case the lees are 
 pressed out, are used for gaining tar- 
 trate of calcium and spirit of wine. The 
 pure lees contain 3 to 5 per cent, of 
 pure alcohol and 2 to 3 per cent, of 
 tartrates, while the pressed cakes yield 
 only 1 to 2 per cent, of alcohol, but 4 
 to 6 per cent, of tartrate of calcium. The 
 gaining of alcohol is the first operation, 
 for which any ordinary liquor still 
 may be used, the product being alcohol 
 of 85 to 90 per cent. Tralles. The 
 thickly fluid lees are put in the still 
 and distilled as long as alcohol is 
 obtained, but the pressed cakes must 
 first be intimately mixed with cold 
 water, 12 gallons to 200 pounds of lees. 
 After distillation the boiling hot resi- 
 due is drawn from the still into a 
 wooden vat, and compounded with 2 
 to 3 per cent, of hydrochloric or sul- 
 phuric acid to every 20 gallons. The 
 mass thus treated is kept boiling for 
 half an hour longer, being constantly 
 stirred. The residue is then left 
 standing quietly for 18 to 20 hours, to 
 allow the lees "to settle. The nearly 
 
376 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 clear fluid containing in solution all 
 the tartrates is, in order to gain the tar- 
 trate of calcium, drawn off into another 
 vat and compounded, under constant 
 stirring, with elutriated carbonate of 
 calcium until the acid is completely neu- 
 tralized, whereby the tartrate of calcium 
 formed is precipitated. The whole is 
 then allowed to stand quietly for 5 
 hours, when the tartrate of calcium is 
 separated by drawing off the fluid 
 standing over it. The product thus 
 obtained is especially adapted for the 
 fabrication of tartaric acid, tartrates of 
 potassium, sodium, etc., and is a perfect 
 substitute for crude tartar. 
 
 Process of Producing White or Blatk 
 Pigment from the Clarifying /Slime in 
 Sugar Houses. The slime is dried and 
 calcined in retorts, under exclusion of 
 air, and then cooled in a well-closed 
 vessel. To obtain a white pigment 
 admit air to the calcined mass. 
 
 Process of Working Fecal Substances 
 in a Rarefied Space, a, b } d (Fig. 52) 
 are the saturating reservoirs in which 
 
 the injector into the column apparatus 
 B, and be used for warming the fecal 
 substances. According to another 
 method the injector placed on the 
 reservoir h creates a vacuum in the 
 column apparatus B by means of the 
 suction pipe F, and blows the ammo- 
 niacal vapors to h, where they are 
 absorbed. 
 
 Sulphur, Sulphuric Acid, etc., from 
 Gas-lime may be obtained by heating 
 the lime to 300 F. in a closed retort, 
 and passing steam at 600 F. over it, 
 evolving sulphuretted hydrogen, which 
 passes to a leaden chamber, and is 
 there supplied with air and ignited to 
 produce sulphurous acid ; it is then 
 mixed with nitric acid vapors, when 
 the reaction produces sulphuric acid. 
 The gas-lime is then mixed with clay, 
 loam, or sand and subjected to heat, 
 when the silicate or aluminium unites 
 with the lime and with oxygen, forming 
 silicate of calcium, etc., and liberating 
 the sulphur. To produce the sulphide 
 of sodium or potassium the gas-lime, 
 
 Fig. 52. 
 
 a partial vacuum is produced by means 
 of injectors. The air is also rarefied in 
 the column apparatus B, in which the 
 fecal substances are laid on plates situ- 
 ated above each other. The ammoniacal 
 gases in the reservoirs a, b, d, in dis- 
 tilling, in consequence of this pass over 
 much more quickly and are less heated. 
 The steam used in creating a vacuum can 
 be passed through the blast-pipe G of 
 
 etc., should be mixed with caustic 
 soda or potash, and allowed to stand 
 until the reaction takes place. 
 
 Recovering Fat and Color from Waste 
 Wash Liquors. Treat the 'waste soap 
 liquor with a solution of muriate of 
 lime, and add milk of lime until free 
 lime remains in the mixture. After 
 mixing thoroughly, and allowing to 
 settle, the supernatant liquor is drawn 
 
WASTE AND OFFAL, UTILIZATION OP 
 
 377 
 
 off. The precipitate containing the 
 fatty and coloring matters is then 
 treated with sufficient muriatic acid to 
 decompose the fatty but not the color- 
 ing matter. The whole is then 
 strained through flannel, and the fatty 
 and coloring matters left on the strainer 
 are heated, to melt and agglutinate the 
 colored fatty substance, then cooled 
 and pressed in bags to remove any 
 watery solutions left by the first strain- 
 ing. "The substance removed from the 
 bag may be further heated to remove 
 any remaining water, and the color 
 combined with the fat may be sepa- 
 rated by heat and pressure, or by treat- 
 ment with hydro-carbons as a solvent. 
 Utilization of Waste Wash Liquors 
 from, Wool Manufactories. Compound 
 the waste soap liquor with a mixture 
 of 44 pounds of sulphuric acid of 66 
 . B., 132 pounds of the same acid of 53 
 B., and 44 pounds of hydrochloric acid 
 of 22 B. The sulphuric acid of 66 
 B. unites with the alkalies and colors 
 the liquor, which assumes a milky ap- 
 pearance, while the acid of 53 B. 
 liberates the fatty substances, the 
 hydrochloric acid completing the de- 
 composition and neutralizing the liquor, 
 in which will then be found small 
 lumps of fat of the size of pin-heads. 
 These small lumps rise to the surface 
 and form a cake of fat floating thereon. 
 This is separated from the liquor, heated 
 in a boiler, and then mixed with saw- 
 dust in the proportion of 25 gallons of 
 the latter to 400 pounds of fat. The 
 mass is then cooled, pressed in a hydrau- 
 lic press, and the oil running off allowed 
 to settle, and is then decanted. The 
 oil thus gained is claimed to be just as 
 good as if it had never been used. 
 
 To Cleanse Woollen Waste. Soak the 
 waste in cold urine for 1 to 6 days, then 
 place it in a basket to drain off. Now 
 place the wool for 4 to 6 days in a vat 
 containing fulling liquor in which 2 
 pounds of soda to every 20 pounds of 
 waste have been dissolved ; then wish 
 with cold water and dry. The waste 
 will have the appearance of pure wool 
 and can be used as such. 
 
 Utilization of Waste of Sheep Wool. 
 Comminute the waste to a length of 2J 
 inches, and soak it in quite hot water 
 for 3 days. Then free the waste from 
 the greater part of the water and bring it 
 
 while still moist upon a close and fine 
 carding engine. 
 
 To .Regain Indigo from old Colors 
 and Residues of Colors. Put 85 to 100 
 pounds of residues of colors in a vat or 
 boiler having a capacity of 50 gallons, 
 add 30 gallons of water, and boil the 
 whoJe J hour. Then add gradually a 
 mixture of 10 pounds of sulphuric acid 
 and 2i gallons of water, and let the 
 whole boil until no more sulphurous 
 acid is developed. Then pour the 
 liquor into a large wooden vat with 
 water, wash the indigo by decantation 
 until the water shows no more acidity, 
 and throw the slime upon a filter. The 
 paste, after the percentage of indigo 
 has been determined, can be used at 
 once. 
 
 Production of Cyanide of Potassium. 
 Ammonia, Tar, and Gas from JVitro- 
 geneous Organic Substances. Leather 
 waste, blood, wool, hair, etc., are satu- 
 rated with a solution of potash and 
 then dried. The mass is then heated 
 in retorts, but not to the melting point. 
 Ammonia, gas, and tar are caught up 
 in the usual manner. The residue con- 
 tains cyanide and cyanate of potassium, 
 sulphocyanide of potassium, calcium 
 carbonate, potassium hydrate, potas- 
 sium sulphide, and carbon. In the 
 presence of metallic iron or ferrous 
 oxide the cyanide of potassium is con- 
 verted into ferrocyanide of potassium by 
 lixiviation. After separating this the 
 solution may again serve for impregnat- 
 ing nitrogeneous substances. The potas- 
 sium hydrate present is converted into 
 carbonate by treating the solution with 
 carbonic acid. In case the raw mate- 
 rials are contaminated with sand it is 
 removed by washing with potash-lye. 
 
 To Restore Rubber Corks which have 
 become hard digest them for 10 days in 
 a 5 per cent, solution of soda-lye at 
 100 to 120 F., then wash them and 
 scrape off" the outer layer which has be- 
 come very soft with a dull knife until 
 nothing more can be scraped off. Then 
 wash the corks once more with warm 
 water, and they are again fit for use. 
 
 Process of Gaining the Volatile Prod- 
 ucts Developed in Roasting Coffee and 
 their Utilization. The volatile products 
 developed in roasting coffee, which may 
 amoiint to as much as 25 per cent, or 
 the weight of the coffee, are condensed 
 
378 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 in a condenser. The resulting fluid is 
 used either by itself or, after previous 
 evaporation, in the manufacture of 
 coffee substitutes, or for improving 
 solid or fluid coffee extracts. 
 
 WATER-GLASS (SOLUBLE GLASS) AND 
 ITS USES. 
 
 Water-glass comes into commerce in 
 the form of a thickly fluid and tough 
 mass, obtained by fusing together 
 quartz , sand with soda and less fre- 
 quently with potash. 
 
 It is actually a glass, distinguished 
 from other varieties by being easily 
 soluble in water. 
 
 The solution possesses an alkaline 
 taste, and on exposure to air is gradu- 
 ally converted into a gelatinous, trans- 
 parent mass, which finally becomes 
 entirely hard. This phenomenon is 
 caused by the expulsion of the silicic 
 acid from the water-glass by the car- 
 bonic acid in the air, thus forming a 
 gelatinous mass of hydrated silicic 
 acid. The article must therefore 
 always be kept in hermetically closed 
 vessels. Glass stoppers must not be 
 used, as they are cemented so tightly 
 to the neck of the vessel that they can- 
 not be removed without the greatest 
 difficulty. 
 
 Four varieties of water-glass are 
 known in commerce: Potash water- 
 glass, soda water-glass, compound wa- 
 ter-glass, and fixing water-glass. 
 
 Preparation of Potash Water-glass. 
 Mix 15 parts of pure quartz-sand with 
 10 of potassium carbonate and 1 of 
 charcoal powder, and fuse the mixture 
 in a crucible. The contents of the 
 crucible, when cold, is taken out, pul- 
 verized, and exposed to the air, being 
 frequently stirred during the time. 
 The powder is then several times 
 washed with cold water, and then 
 boiled with 5 parts of water until all 
 is completely dissolved. The solution 
 is then filtered and evaporated to a 
 specific gravity of 1.25. In this man- 
 ner a sticky, syrupy liquid is obtained 
 which, on exposure to the air, dries to 
 a transparent glass. 
 
 Another receipt: Quartz sand 15 
 parts, potash 5, and anhydrous soda 4. 
 It is prepared as above. 
 
 Preparation of Water-glass from In- 
 fusorial Earth. Liebig first drew atten- 
 tion to infusorial earth as a valuable ma- 
 terial for preparing water-glass. By 
 treating 24 parts of infusorial earth with 
 72.6 of soda-lye of 1.135 specific gravity 
 46 parts of an excellent gelatinous com- 
 pound are obtained which consist of 
 58.5 per cent, of dry potash water-glass 
 and 41.5 per cent, of water. The lye 
 used in preparing it is obtained by dis- 
 solving 74.5 parts of calcined soda in 5 
 times the quantity of water, compound- 
 ing the solution with 56 parts of dry, 
 slaked lime, and evaporating the com- 
 pound to 1.5 specific gravity. By add- 
 ing to this lye 120 parts of infusorial 
 earth water-glass is obtained. By tak- 
 ing less infusorial earth a very strongly 
 alkaline water-glass is the result which, 
 on exposure to the air, deliquesces very 
 easily. 
 
 By using 120 parts of infusorial earth 
 to 74.5 of soda 8.62 to 8.94 ounces of 
 gelatinous water-glass are obtained, 
 which contains : 
 
 Dry water-glass 47 per cent. 
 
 Water 53 " " 
 
 100 
 
 The dry water-glass contains : 
 
 Silicic acid 73 per cent. 
 
 Soda 27 " " 
 
 100 
 
 Preparation of Soda Water-glass. I. 
 Mix 15 parts of fine quartz-sand with 8 
 of sodium carbonate and 1 of wood 
 charcoal powder. The process is the 
 same as given for potash water-glass. 
 
 II. Mix 45 parts of quartz sand, 23 
 of anhydrous sodium carbonate, and 3 
 of wood charcoal powder. This mixt- 
 ure is easier to fuse. 
 
 III. Water-glass may also be pre- 
 pared from 1 part of finely-pulverized 
 quartz and 2 of crystallized soda. 
 
 IV. Buchner prepares soda water- 
 glass with the assistance of Glauber's 
 salt, using the following proportions: 
 Quartz finely pulverized 100 parts, 
 anhydrous Glauber's salt 60, and pul- 
 verized wood charcoal 15 to 20 parts. 
 By this process a solution in water is 
 obtained which is more opalescent than 
 potash water-glass. 
 
 Preparation of Compound Water- 
 
WATER-GLASS AND ITS USES. 
 
 379 
 
 glass. This can be obtained either by 
 mixing 3 parts of concentrated potash 
 water-glass and 2 of concentrated soda 
 water-glass; or by fusing together: 
 Quartz 100 parts, purified potash 28, 
 neutral anhydrous sodium carbonate 
 22, and pulverized wood charcoal 6. 
 The rest of the process is the same as 
 given for potash water-glass. 
 
 Preparation of Fixing Water-glass. 
 This is prepared by fusing together 3 
 parts of pure anhydrous sodium car- 
 bonate with 2 of pulverized quartz, and 
 making of this a concentrated solution, 
 1 part of which is mixed with 4 to 5 of 
 concentrated potash water-glass com- 
 pletely saturated with silica. 
 
 In Kuhlmann's water-glass factory 
 at Lille liquid water-glass is prepared 
 by treating pulverized flint in iron 
 boilers, under a pressure of 7 to 8 at- 
 mospheres, with a strong solution of 
 hydrate of soda. 
 
 Water-glass as a Substitute for Cow- 
 dung for Fixing Alumina and Iron 
 Mordants on Cotton-prints, Linen, etc. 
 The cotton and linen fabrics, after 
 hanging three days to allow of a partial 
 evaporation of the acetic acid and its 
 conversion into basic salts, are drawn 
 through a roller-box containing a solu- 
 tion of 15 parts of sodium silicate in 
 4500 parts of water ; they are then 
 washed and passed through a bath of 
 cow-dung. 
 
 But the manufacturers experience 
 great difficulty with this process on 
 account of the sodium silicate, which 
 generally contains some caustic alkali, 
 and attacks the alumina mordant too 
 strongly for alazarine, while the iron 
 mordant used remains untouched. For 
 this reason Higgins proposed calcium 
 silicate, which was found to answer the 
 purpose very satisfactorily. It is pre- 
 pared as follows : Melt in a furnace a 
 mixture of quartz powder and calcined 
 soda, so that the resulting water-glass 
 consists of 2 equivalents of silica and 1 
 equivalent of soda: dissolve this in suf- 
 ficient water for the solution to show 
 30 B. Then prepare an aqueous solu- 
 tion of chloride of calcium of 30 B. 
 The mixture used for cleansing the 
 fabrics printed with bases consists of 2 
 parts of a solution of water-glass of 30 
 B., obtained as given above, 2 parts of 
 a solution of chloride of calcium of 30 
 
 B., and 1200 parts of water. In mixing 
 a precipitate of calcium bisilicate is 
 formed, which is held in suspension in 
 the fluid. The solution contains also 
 chloride of calcium, but the calcium 
 bisilicate is the effective part in passing 
 the fabrics printed with mordants 
 through the bath. This cleansing bath 
 takes the place of two of cow-dung. A 
 part of the silicic acid in the calcium 
 bisilicate combines with the alumina or 
 iron mordant to aluminium silicate or 
 iron silicate, both giving great in- 
 tensity and constancy to the colors to 
 be produced. 
 
 Use of Soda Water-glass for Protect- 
 ing White Colors in Printing Fabrics. 
 If white figures are to be produced 
 under a catechu brown ground color, 
 neutral sodium silicate furnishes an ex- 
 cellent protection. It is accomplished 
 by printing upon cotton fabrics 
 bleached white with a solution of sodi- 
 um silicate. The places, when dry, 
 appear like coated with a glass varnish 
 which prevents the catechu color from 
 penetrating. 
 
 Water-glass for Silicifuing Stones. 
 By dissolving pulverized chalk in 
 water-glass a paste is formed which 
 hardens slowly in the air, and becomes 
 so hard that jt is well adapted for re- 
 pairing monuments and manufacturing 
 mouldings. 
 
 Limestone dipped several times in a 
 solution of water-glass and then ex- 
 posed to the air acquires a very smooth 
 surface and becomes very hard. It is 
 also claimed that stones prepared with 
 water-glass are suitable for lithographic 
 purposes. 
 
 Water-glass as a Bleaching Agent. 
 If. Grothe, who has made many exper- 
 iments with water-glass in large bleach- 
 cries, pronounces it superior to soda for 
 bleaching purposes. Even such mate- 
 rials as jute yarns become brilliantly 
 white in a short time by subjecting 
 them to the following process: Place 
 the yarns for 15 to 20 minutes in a hot 
 solution of 3 to 4 parts of water-glass in 
 50 parts of water, and turn them several 
 times with a stick. They are first 
 rinsed in hot but not boiling water, and 
 next in cold, and then placed in a weak 
 chlorine-bath , and finally in an acid- 
 bath. Jute bleached in this manner 
 can be used not only as fine material 
 
380 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 for paper but also for fine white textile 
 fabrics. Instead of boiling hemp and 
 cotton yarns for 6 to 8 hours in strong 
 solution of soda, it is only necessary to 
 work them for 10 to 15 minutes in a 
 very hot bath of water-glass. For 100 
 parts of flax-yarn 12 to 15 parts of 
 water-glass are required, which cost 30 
 per cent, less than the 10 parts of soda 
 of 90 per cent, generally used. The 
 yarn, after being taken from the water- 
 glass bath, must be rinsed in hot water 
 and then in cold, and is finally placed 
 in the ordinary chlorine and acid-baths. 
 Linen and cotton fabrics cannot be 
 bleached in the same manner as the 
 yarns, as the si/ing, consisting of starch, 
 glue, gum, etc., must first be removed 
 by boiling in milk of lime ; but when 
 this has been done bleaching is accom- 
 plished decidedly quicker and cheaper 
 with water-glass than with soda. 
 
 For Finishing Linen and Cotton 
 Goods water-glass can be advantage- 
 ously used in place of China clay. It 
 has the advantage of being far whiter 
 and forming a chemical combination in 
 the finest fibres of the fabric. To pro- 
 duce a precipitate the linen or cotton 
 fabric is first passed through a hot solu- 
 tion of alum, and then through a hot 
 bath of water-glass, to which has been 
 added a small quantity of glycerine. 
 The fabric is then passed through a 
 weak starch-bath, and finally through 
 warm rollers. 
 
 Potash Water-glass as a Binding and 
 Fixing Medium for Ground Colors on 
 Cotton Goods. For fixing ultramarine 
 potash water-glass is better for printing 
 than soda water-glass ; but for all other 
 printing colors the latter is the best. 
 
 The printing color is. prepared by 
 grinding ultramarine very fine in a 
 concentrated solution of potash water- 
 glass, then pressing through a sieve or 
 cloth, and printing on the cloth with 
 the cylinder printing-machine. The 
 fabric* is then hung up in the air for a 
 few days to allow the ultramarine to 
 combine with the silicic acid upon the 
 fibres of the fabric, and the potash is 
 then removed by washing. Fabrics 
 printed with ultramarine prepared as 
 above and dried in the air may also be 
 drawn through a cold and very 
 weak bath of alum or vinegar. The 
 potash water-glass is thereby partly 
 
 decomposed and the ground color in- 
 timately combined with the cotton 
 fibre. Rinse the fabric in running 
 water and then dry it. Hydrochloric 
 acid destroys the ultramarine. 
 
 Potash water-glass is a much cheaper 
 material for printing with ultramarine 
 than albumen, which passes quickly 
 into putrefaction. 
 
 For Light Blue Ultramarine Colors 
 bleached potash water-glass is used, 
 which is prepared in the same manner 
 as soda water-glass. 
 
 Other colors are mechanically fixed 
 upon the fibre of cotton fabrics by 
 grinding them in neutral water-glass 
 and proceeding in the same manner as 
 given for ultramarine. 
 
 Violet is obtained by mixing blue 
 ultramarine and red carmine or cin- 
 nabar with liquid neutral water-glass. 
 
 Different green tints by mixing 
 chrome-green, Schweinfurth green, or 
 green carmine with liquid neutral 
 glass. 
 
 Yellow is produced by mixing chro- 
 mate of zinc or sulphide of cadmium 
 with liquid neutral water-glass. 
 
 Orange and Red with minium and 
 cinnabar. 
 
 Red-brown by mixing red ferric oxide 
 with liquid neutral water-glass. 
 
 Copper-brown with cupric ferro- 
 cyanide. 
 
 White by grinding zinc-white with 
 neutral soda water-glass. 
 
 The different vegetable lakes ob- 
 tained by precipitation with alum, 
 pink-salt, and other tin-chlorides are 
 also very suitable for printing on cotton 
 goods. After printing and drying they 
 are, in order to decompose the soda 
 water-glass, drawn through an alum- 
 bath, whereby the silicic acid forms 
 a combination with the lake, and 
 precipitates itself in an insoluble state 
 upon the fibre of the fabric. The 
 goods are then rinsed in running water 
 and dried in the shade. 
 
 For printing the so-called " solid 
 blue," soda water-glass is especially 
 well adapted as an inspissating agent. 
 This blue is the precipitate obtained 
 with acid chloride of tin in the cold in- 
 digo vat. After printing the color is 
 fixed in a sulphuric acid bath, and the 
 goods are then rinsed. 
 
 The "solid green" is obtained by 
 
WATER-GLASS AND ITS USES. 
 
 381 
 
 adding to the blue color solution of 
 plumbic oxide in caustic lye. After 
 printing the color is fixed by drawing 
 the fabric through a bath of potassium 
 bichromate. 
 
 Water-glass in Painting. Feichtinger 
 states that the palace at Munich is 
 decorated with paintings in the prepa- 
 ration of which alkaline silicates have 
 been used, and some of which have 
 been in existence for some tilne. The 
 alkaline silicate liquor used has the 
 specific gravity of 1.12, is opalescent, 
 and, on standing, forms calcium carbo- 
 nate. It leaves on evaporation a resi- 
 due composed of silica 9.18 parts, pot- 
 ash 3.56, soda 1.14, potassium sulphate 
 0.66, and traces of chloride of sodium 
 and calcium carbonate. The colors 
 used are white (mixtures of 27 to 36 
 parts of oxide of zinc and 64 to 73 parts of 
 barium sulphate), yellow, reddish-brown, 
 and dark brown, these last being cal- 
 careous ochres; and black, a mixture 
 of lampblack and manganese. They 
 are made up into thick parts with a 
 solution of water-glass containing silica 
 51.79 per cent., potash 39.05 per cent., 
 and soda 9.16 per cent. The surface on 
 which these colors are applied is a cal- 
 careous mortar exposed to the air for a 
 long time. 
 
 A water-glass paint of a yellowish- 
 white contains oxide of zinc 52.7 parts, 
 oxide of iron 3.25, calcium carbonate 
 22.12, sand 21.85. This is mixed with 
 a solution of water-glass, leaving be- 
 hind 27.2 parts of residue containing 
 silica 67.05 per cent., potash 29.4 per 
 cent., and soda 3.55 per cent. Appa- 
 rently the coloring matter in this case 
 is a partially-calcined natural cala- 
 mine. 
 
 Use of Water-glass for Coating Rough- 
 cast and Stone Walls. Mix 1 part of 
 water-glass with 3 of rain water. The 
 solution of water-glass is decomposed 
 by the lime in the mortar. The cal- 
 cium carbonate is converted by this 
 decomposition into silicate, whereby 
 the surface acquires a glassy appear- 
 ance of a darker hue, becomes solid 
 and hard, and resists the action of the 
 weather. 
 
 By painting white- washed walls with 
 Water-glass the coat becomes very dura- 
 ble, does not rub off, and can be washed. 
 li the white color is to be preserved 
 
 some fat lime may be added to the 
 water-glass. 
 
 Zinc white with an addition of J to 
 i part by weight of permanent white 
 and ground in water-glass gives a beau- 
 tiful white color. 
 
 Water-glass in Painting Metals and 
 Glass. Water-glass either by itself or 
 mixed with pigments is especially well 
 adapted for painting articles of iron, 
 zinc, brass, etc., exposed to the action 
 of air and moisture, and also to prevent 
 rust. A coat of a mixture of water- 
 glass and some elutriated manganese ap- 
 plied to iron will stand a red heat; nay, 
 more, the coating will become more 
 beautiful. This paint, as it prevents 
 rusting, maybe especially recommended 
 for stove-pipes. 
 
 Wood Painted with Water-glass is 
 protected against the action of fire, the 
 atmosphere, and moisture, and is be- 
 sides rendered very durable. The 
 water-glass must be applied cold, not 
 too concentrated nor too thick. Such 
 solution is obtained by diluting 1 part 
 of water-glass of 33 per cent, with 5 of 
 rain water. Apply several coats of this 
 to the wood, allowing each coat to 
 dry thoroughly before laying on the 
 next. 
 
 Creuzburg's process, according to 
 which water-glass paint is more dura- 
 ble than oil or varnish, consists in 
 grinding the pigments not in water- 
 glass but in a compound of equal parts 
 of water and skim milk, as pigments 
 ground in water-grass alone rub off too 
 easily. In painting the solution of 
 water-glass is first applied, then a coat 
 of paint, then again water-glass, and so 
 on, the last coat being one or more 
 of water-glass. Every coat must be 
 thoroughly dry before the next is laid 
 on. 
 
 Water-glass can be substituted for 
 borax and borocic acid, especially for 
 soldering, hardening, and welding cast- 
 iron. For welding cast-iron to iron or 
 steel scatter upon the hot surfaces to be 
 joined a powder consisting of clay thor- 
 oughly dried 2 parts, calcined soda 1, 
 and potash i. 
 
 Water-glass Cements. By combining 
 water-glass with cement or quicklime 
 a double silicate hard as stone and re- 
 sisting chemical agents is formed in ft 
 short time, 
 
382 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Water-glass by itself can only be used 
 for cementing glass to glass, and even 
 for this a certain skill is required, but 
 combined with other substances it fur- 
 nishes a durable and hard cement. 
 
 To Cement Cracked Bottles with 
 Water-glass. Prepare a thickly-fluid 
 solution of water-glass. Provide the 
 bottle with a cork fitting tightly but 
 set on loosely, while the bottle is heated 
 to at least 212 F. When this is done 
 press down the cork, so that it closes 
 the bottle hermetically, and then apply 
 a thick coat of the water-glass solution 
 to the cracks. The air in the bottle on 
 cooling contracts, the pressure of the 
 outer air forces the water-glass into the 
 cracks, closing them so perfectly that 
 they cannot be detected. 
 
 Hydraulic Water-glass Cement is 
 prepared by quickly mixing fiuely- 
 pulverized cement with solution of 
 water-glass. The cement, by reason 
 of its hardening in a very short time, 
 must be applied as quickly as possible. 
 It is excellent for hydraulic works, as 
 in the water it becomes as hard as stone. 
 The stones should be coated with a solu- 
 tion of water-glass immediately before 
 applying the cement. 
 
 Water-glass Cement for Glass and 
 Porcelain. Elutriated glass powder 
 10 parts, elutriated powder of fluor- 
 spar 20, solution of water-glass 60. 
 The ingredients are stirred together as 
 quickly as possible, and the resulting 
 homogeneous paste is immediately ap- 
 plied. The cement becomes so hard in 
 a few days that the cemented article 
 can be safely heated. 
 
 Water-glass Cement with Zinc and 
 Pyrolusite. Pyrolusite 80 parts, zinc 
 white 100, and water-glass 20. This 
 cement hardens in a short time, and 
 Js especially adapted for cementing 
 the joints of pipes exposed to a red heat, 
 as, when once fused, it forms a glass-like 
 mass of great adhesive power, and 
 makes a very close joint. 
 
 Water-glass and Lime Cement. 
 Quicklime 10 parts, whiting 100, solu- 
 tion of water-glass 25. This cement 
 hardens slowly and can be used for 
 flag-pavement by mixing with it small 
 sharp-edged stones and stamping it into 
 moulds. 
 
 Uottger's Water-glass and Lime 
 Cement. This cement becomes so hard 
 
 in a few hours that it can be polished ; 
 it consists of whiting 100 parts and 
 thick solution of water-glass 25, and is 
 especially adapted for cementing the 
 joints between marble plates. 
 
 Water-glass and Caseine Cement for 
 Glass and Porcelain. Caseine 10 
 parts, solution of water-glass 60. The 
 cement must be applied as quickly as 
 possible, and the cemented articles 
 dried in the air. 
 
 Water-glass mixed with powdered 
 chalk furnishes a mortar hardening 
 completely in 6 to 8 hours ; mixed with 
 sulphide of antimony it forms a dark 
 mass, susceptible of a high polish ; with 
 iron filings the result is a grayish-black, 
 very hard mass; whilst with zinc fil- 
 ings a very hard gray metallic mass is 
 produced very suitable for cementing 
 zinc work. 
 
 Water-glass for Preserving Barrels 
 and Other Wooden Articles. Heat 
 commercial water-glass diluted with 
 about 25 per cent, ot water and apply a 
 coat of the hot solution to the barrel. 
 When thoroughly soaked in, repeat the 
 application, allow it to dry and then 
 give a coat of a solution of 1 part of 
 sodium bicarbonate in 8 parts of water. 
 By the latter application the carbonic 
 acid of the bicarbonate separates the 
 silicic acid from the water-glass (so- 
 dium silicate) soaked into the pores of 
 the wood, which, so to speak, silicifies 
 the wood and renders it capable of re- 
 sisting the penetration of liquids. Bar- 
 rels thus treated are very durable and 
 easily cleansed. 
 
 WATER-PROOFING COMPOUNDS. 
 
 Preparations for Water-proofing Tis- 
 sues. Dissolve 33 to 36 parts of pure 
 gutta-percha in 333 parts of oil of tur- 
 pentine or benzole, filter the solution, 
 and compound it with 333 parts of lin- 
 seed-oil varnish. Apply with a brush. 
 
 II. Dissolve at a moderate heat 33 
 Darts of white wax shavings in 1665 to 
 3000 parts of collodion. 
 
 III. Pulverize as fine as possible 250 
 larts of white bole, 1500 parts of silver 
 itharge, and 500 parts of calcined lamp- 
 black, and compound the ingredients 
 with the required quantity of linseed- 
 
 il varnish. 
 
WATER-PROOFING COMPOUNDS. 
 
 To Make Sacking Water-proof. Dis- 
 solve 1 part of rosin in 20 parts of coal- 
 tar oil, and filter the solution. Let the 
 sacking lie in it for 5 days, and then 
 rub it with litharge or lime. Then dis- 
 solve i part of rosin in 4 parts of coal-tar 
 oil, immerse the sacking several times 
 and rub again with litharge or lime. 
 
 Soap for Water-proofing Woollen 
 Cloth and other Fabrics. Prepare the 
 following solutions: I. Thirty -three 
 parts of isinglass in 66 parts of water. 
 II. Sixty-six parts of alum in a like 
 quantity of water. III. Sixty-six parts 
 of white soap in 500 parts of water. 
 Filter the solutions, then pour them 
 together in a vessel standing on a fire, 
 arid let the mixture boil up. Then 
 take it from the fire and apply it with 
 a brush to the back of the fabric. 
 When dry brush it against the grain 
 and later on with the brush dipped in 
 water in order to remove all lustre. 
 The fabric is then dried. For thin 
 woollen and cotton fabrics and silk 
 take but half the quantity of water and 
 soak them in the fluid. 
 
 Various Processes of Water-proofing 
 Tissues. I. Dissolve 1 part each of 
 glue and neutral lime soap in 20 of 
 boiling water, and add gradually 1-i 
 
 rrts of alum. Then boil the solution 
 hour, let the resulting milky fluid 
 cool off to 120 F., and immerse the 
 tissues until they are thoroughly per- 
 meated, and hang them up to dry with- 
 out wringing. When dry the tissue is 
 washed, again dried and mangled. 
 
 II. Dissolve 125 parts of gun-cotton 
 in 425 of ether and mix the solution 
 with 375 parts of castor oil and 25 of 
 an organic coloring substance. The 
 quantity of castor oil depends on the 
 degree of flexibility the fabric is to 
 have. Apply the mixture in the same 
 way as caoutchouc solution. 
 
 Preparation of Collodion Varnish 
 for Water-proofing fabrics. Dis- 
 solve 250 parts of gun-cotton in a mixt- 
 ure of 630 parts of ether and 100 of 
 alcohol, add 20 parts of castor oil, and 
 apply several layers of the solution to 
 the fabric. Paper thus prepared, on 
 being rubbed with a rag dipped in 
 ether, acquires a beautiful polish. This 
 collodion varnish can also be mixed 
 with linseed-oil varnish or oil of tur- 
 pentine varnish. 
 
 A New Water-proofing Compound 
 is prepared by melting paraffine, and 
 adding gradually a suitable drying 
 oil, stirring well to insure intimate 
 mixture; it is then poured into moulds 
 the shape of bricks or blocks, and 
 allowed to cool. The fabric to be 
 rendered water-proof is rubbed over 
 with a block of the compound, warm- 
 ing the rubbing face gently if the 
 atmosphere is cold, and then ironing 
 the cloth with a warm iron or passing 
 it between hot rollers. The applica- 
 tion of this compound to leather and 
 textile and felted fabrics gives .ex- 
 cellent results, as, although it renders 
 the cloth thoroughly water-proof, it is 
 not impervious to the air. 
 
 To Manufacture Water-proof Cloth 
 which is not Impervious to the Air. 
 Instead of water-proofing the finished 
 cloth, coat the yarns before weaving 
 with a solution of copal or aniine, and 
 boiled linseed-oil in oil of turpentine, 
 which is heated and mixed with half 
 its weight of a *hick solution of caout- 
 chouc in oil of turpentine. The yarn 
 is drawn through the varnish and, to 
 remove any excess, is passed through 
 a cut in a piece of leather or rubber ; it 
 is then wound upon a roller, dried at a 
 moderate heat, and is now ready for 
 weaving. It is very glossy, and fabrics 
 manufactured from it present a beauti- 
 ful appearance. 
 
 Prepared Cloth as a Substitute for 
 Leather. The cotton or linen cloth 
 called "moleskin" is used for the 
 purpose, both sides of it being coated 
 with a compound obtained by mixing 
 100 parts of drying oil, 3 of burnt 
 umber, and 6 of lampblack, and lique- 
 fying the mixture with oil of turpen- 
 tine. When dry the cloth is passed 
 between smoothing rollers. Several 
 layers of this mixture may be applied, 
 and when the last layer is dry the 
 cloth is coated with a varnish consist- 
 ing of the same ingredients as above, 
 but a larger quantity of ail of tnrpen~ 
 tine. When this is dry, the surface is 
 polished with pumice stone, and finally 
 coated with a varnish consisting of 
 linseed oil 100 parts, litharge, umber, 
 and Berlin-blue each 3, and caout- 
 chouc 2. The cloth is finally dried for 
 48 to 60 hours, at a temperature of 
 120 F. 
 
884 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 To Water-proof Felt, Woollen and 
 Half-woollen Fabrics, and to give 
 them greater Consistence. The fabrics 
 are treated with a solution composed 
 of potash-alum, animal or vegetable 
 glue each 100 parts, tannin 5, and 
 potash water-glass 2. Three different 
 operations are required to prepare the 
 solution. 1. The potash-alum is dis- 
 solved in an equal quantity by weight 
 of boiling water. 2. The glue is al- 
 lowed to swell up in cold water until 
 it has absorbed double its quantity by 
 weight. The excess of water is then 
 poured off, and the glue brought to 
 the boiling point, and the tannin and 
 soda water-glass are then added. 3. 
 The two solutions are now mixed to- 
 gether and boiled, with constant stir- 
 ring, until a complete union has taken 
 place, when it is allowed to cool, 
 whereby it will acquire a gelatinous 
 consistency. For treating felt or other 
 fabrics a bath is prepared by boiling 1 
 part of the gelatinous compound with 
 10 to 12 parts of water for 3 hours. 
 The water evaporating in boiling is 
 always replaced by fresh, so that the 
 bath retains its density, which is regu- 
 lated by a test with the densimeter. 
 The bath is then cooled to 175 F., 
 and the felt or fabric immersed in it 
 for i hour. The impregnated fabric 
 is then spread upon a table for 6 hours 
 to allow the fluid to drain off. This 
 must be done at an ordinary tempera- 
 ture, and in such a manner that the 
 fabric lies in a perfectly horizontal 
 position and is everywhere equally 
 permeated. The fluid draining off is 
 collected and again used. The fabric 
 is then dried in the sun or in a room 
 heated at most to 120 F. ; kept in a 
 horizontal position, so that the fluid re- 
 mains equally distributed over the en- 
 tire surface. Finish by passing the 
 fabric through rollers heated to 120 F. 
 Felt or other fabrics prepared in this 
 manner possess more consistency and 
 power of resistance than ordinary 
 tissues are water-proof but not im- 
 pervious to the air. If the fabrics are 
 subjected to this treatment after 
 yeing it helps to fix the colors, but 
 for very tender colors it is advisable to 
 use almost white glue and perfectly 
 pure alum, i. e., containing no trace of 
 iron, as this would injure the colors. 
 
 To Water-proof Vegetable Fibres. 
 Compound 20 parts of petroleum as 
 inodorous as possible with part of 
 ordinary, i-of very light rosin, and & 
 of paraffine, heat the mixture at 167 
 F. until all are dissolved. Then add 
 60 to SO parts of water, and heat the 
 whole until the fluid becomes clear. 
 Then, after cooling the mixture to 
 about 140 F., immerse the fibres in it, 
 and allow them to remain until no 
 more foaming up is perceived on the 
 surface. Yarns, tissues, ropes, bags, 
 etc., are slowly drawn through the 
 bath until the above-named foaming 
 up ceases. The impregnated fabrics or 
 fibres are then freed from adhering 
 parts of the mixture by passing them 
 through rollers. They are then 
 thrown into water for 1 to 2 hours, 
 again passed through rollers, this 
 manipulation being repeated until the 
 impregnating mixtureis almost entirely 
 removed from the surface of the fibres 
 or fabrics, and they are then dried. 
 
 To Water-proof Textile Fabrics, 
 Leather, Paper, etc. The compound 
 consists of 100 parts of best quality of 
 white or yellow wax, 6 parts of English 
 varnish, 4 parts of Burgundy pitch, 8 
 parts of peanut oil, 5 parts of sulphate 
 of iron, and 2 parts of essence of 
 thyme. The pitch is melted in an iron 
 boiler, and the wax together with the 
 sulphate of iron in another. Both are 
 then poured together, intimately mixed 
 and kept at a moderate heat until the 
 compound is liquid and homogeneous. 
 The fabrics to be water-proofed are 
 immersed in it, and then freed from an 
 excess by passing through heated 
 rollers. For water-proofing leather the 
 compound is applied with a brush to 
 the inner side with the leather lying 
 upon a heated plate. 
 
 To Water-proof Paper add to the 
 stuff a solution of pure tallow soap in 
 water, to which has been added suffi- 
 cient alum to effect an entire decompo- 
 sition of the soap. The stuff is then 
 worked up in the ordinary manner, 
 but requires no sizing. 
 
 For Water-proofing Woollen Fab- 
 rics. Boil 12 parts of Castile soap in 
 1200 parts of water, and 16 parts of 
 alum also in 1200 parts of water. 
 Heat both solutions to about 195 F., 
 then pass the fabric several times 
 
WATER-PROOFING COMPOUNDS. 
 
 385 
 
 through the soap-bath, and through 
 the alum solution, and dry in the air. 
 
 II. The following mixture answers 
 the same purpose : Borax 15 parts, 
 isinglass 100 parts, sago 3 parts, salep 
 2 parts, stearine 15 parts, and water 
 1000 parts. 
 
 Impregnation with Caoutchouc. Mix 
 intimately 30 parts of alumina with 100 
 parts of a concentrated solution of 
 caoutchouc in oil of turpentine, spread 
 the cloth upon a table and apply the 
 compound with a brush, and dry. 
 Several layers of the compound maybe 
 applied, the thickness of each coat 
 varying according to the number of 
 layers. Should the non-coated side of 
 the cloth undergo any change, cleanse 
 it with alcohol. 
 
 Impenetrable Double Stuff. The 
 principal feature of this fabric consists 
 in it being formed by uniting two 
 tissues, which without being impervious 
 to the air are water-proofed by the 
 above compound or by the following 
 preparation : Mix 62 parts of alum, 50 
 parts of white lead, and 900 parts of 
 water. After these ingredients have 
 acted upon each other for some time, 
 pour off the clear liquid and immerse 
 the fabrics in it to saturation. Then 
 place them in an ordinary soap-bath, 
 wash and dry them. The caoutchouc 
 solution is then applied in oblique 
 strokes to the surfaces to be joined, so 
 that when the two fabrics are placed 
 together the strokes upon the first cut 
 those upon the other at a right angle. 
 Small squares are formed in this manner 
 which allow of the passage of air and 
 transpiration, without moisture or rain 
 being able to penetrate through the 
 double fabric. 
 
 Becker, Delivaire & Co. make cloths 
 and other fabrics water-proof by coat- 
 ing them with a mixture of : Spermaceti 
 58 parts, flaxseed 78 parts, decoction 
 of snails (from 200 snails) 29 p.u-ts, 
 isinglass and alum each 175 parts. 
 Each of the ingredients is dissolved by 
 itself in boiling water, and the solutions 
 are then mixed. In place of spermaceti, 
 stearine saponified with caustic soda- 
 lye may be used, and the decoctions of 
 flaxseed and isinglass compounded 
 with some ammonia. The alum-bath 
 may be used by itself or the decoction 
 of fiaxseed is first stirred into the solu- 
 25 
 
 tion of isinglass, then the soap, and 
 finally the alum solution, the whole 
 being heated to 100 to 120 F. An 
 addition of a little sulphuric acid 
 makes the compound adhere better to 
 the fibres. Cloth water-proofed in this 
 manner is not impervious to air and 
 transpiration. 
 
 A JSew Process of Water-proofing 
 Fabrics is as follows : Dissolve at a 
 moderate heat 35 parts of stearic acid 
 in 850 parts of spirit of wine, pour the 
 solution upon 1100 parts of pulverized 
 alum and expose the whole to a tem- 
 perature of 98i F. For water-proofing 
 cotton and linen fabrics immerse them 
 in a solution of 1 part of this powder in 
 100 of water,and then dry them. For silk 
 1 part of the powder in 200 of water is 
 used. 
 
 VaneVs Water-proof Composition con- 
 sists of mineral salts and stearic or 
 margaric acid. It is prepared as fol- 
 lows: The salt and about 50 parts of 
 sebacic acid are mixed with 1000 parts 
 of water, the mixture filtered through 
 a felt bag, and the residue pressed to 
 dryness. One part of this residue in 100 
 of water forms the bath in which the 
 fabrics are immersed. They become 
 water-proof but not impervious to the 
 air. All kinds of tissues, paper, and 
 leather can be subjected to the process. 
 The composition is inodorous and does 
 not injure colors. 
 
 Roelandt's Water -proofing Com- 
 pounds. Dissolve 1 part by weight of 
 caoutchouc and 1 part by weight of 
 paraffine or stearine in 2 parts by weight 
 of benzine, dilute the compound to the 
 proper consistency, and apply it with a 
 brush or immerse the substances in it. 
 
 To make Hoots and Shoes Water-proof 
 use the following preparation patented 
 in France: Soda 20 parts, oil of tur- 
 pentine 50, tar-oil 160, rosin 25, linseed 
 oil and isinglass each 15, gutta-percha 
 125, and glue 25. 
 
 To Water-proof Sugar-bags for Trans- 
 port use a compound also patented in 
 France, prepared from 100 parts of best 
 starch, 50 parts of rosin, 25 parts each 
 of potash and boiled linseed-oil, and 
 sufficient water to form a paste of more 
 or less consistency, according to the 
 material with which the bags are to be 
 lined, strong paper or muslin being 
 used for this purpose. Coat the inside of 
 
386 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 the bag with the paste, and while 
 moist press on it the paper or muslin 
 lining, which should be large enough to 
 lap over the seams. Dry in summer in 
 the sun and in winter in a room heated 
 to 104 F. 
 
 The following Water-proofing Com- 
 pound has been patented in England : 
 Mix about 100 parts of alumina with 
 40 parts of flaxseed and 70 parts of 
 alcohol, let it stand to settle and press 
 the sediment formed into blocks. For 
 water-proofing fabrics, dissolve 5 to 7i 
 parts of the compound in 300 parts of 
 water. 
 
 Water-proofing Felt Hats. Pulver- 
 ize: Ordinary shellac 4 parts, white 
 pitch, fine glue, and ordinary soap each 
 1 part, and purified potash & part. Dis- 
 solve the potash in 2 parts of warm 
 water, place the other ingredients in a 
 copper boiler on a coal fire, and as soon 
 as the mixture begins to liquefy add 
 the potash solution, and finally a little 
 more soap dissolved in water. Apply 
 the compound with a brush. 
 
 Water-proof Sail-cloth, known by 
 the name of "Imperial Cloth" is pre- 
 pared in the following manner: Seventy- 
 two parts of fine linseed oil are boiled 
 for 2 to 3 hours with 6 parts of sulphate 
 of iron and 4 of sulphate of zinc, and, 
 when cool, mixed with 60 parts of oil 
 of turpentine and the necessary quan- 
 tity of lampblack. The sail-cloth is 
 painted with this compound and dried 
 in the sun. After 8 or 10 days the ap- 
 plication is repeated. We will here 
 remark that it is necessary to shrink 
 the sail-cloth in water and dry it before 
 applying the compound. 
 
 Zwilling's Water-proofing Compound. 
 Put a porcelain dish in a water-bath 
 and place in it the following ingredi- 
 ents: Caoutchouc cut up very fine 50 
 parts, Venetian turpentine 3 parts, and 
 paraffmeoil 66 parts. Let the mixture 
 stand in the water-bath at a tempera- 
 ture of 98P F. for 1 day, then add 66i 
 parts of oil of turpentine, mix thor- 
 oughly by stirring, and leave the com- 
 pound in the water-bath for 10 days, 
 then add 583 parts more of oil of tur- 
 pentine, and let it stand for 14 days 
 longer in the water-bath. The product 
 will be 750 parts of yellowish liquid, 
 which is applied with a brush, and the 
 fabric is then dried at 120 F. 
 
 Dr.Fournaise's Water-proofing Com- 
 pound. Immerse the fabrics in a bath 
 of 4 to 5 B. of acetate of alumina, 
 prepared, not by double decomposition, 
 but by dissolving hydrate of alumina 
 in acetic acid. The fabric is immersed 
 in this solution for 1 hour, then pressed 
 dry, and, to expel the acetic acid from 
 the combination, exposed in a steam- 
 box to a temperature of 230 to 248 F. 
 Kuhr's Receipt for Water-proofing 
 Linen. The linen is first immersed in 
 an alum-bath composed of a solution 
 of 1 part of neutral sulphate of alu- 
 minium in 10 of water, and, when thor- 
 oughly saturated, in a hot soap-bath 
 prepared by boiling 1 part each of 
 colophony and soda in 10 of water, sep- 
 arating the soap with 1 part of salt, and 
 dissolving this soap and 1 part of white 
 hard soap by boiling in 30 parts of 
 water. The fabric is then dried. 
 
 To Water-proof Textile Fabrics and 
 Paper and to Give them Greater Consist- 
 ence. To water-proof paper take : Soda 
 100 parts, rosin 270 parts, gamboge 3s 
 part, and 100 parts of lime. Slake the 
 lime in water, and dissolve the soda in 
 water. Heat the soda solution in a 
 boiler, and add sufficient milk of lime 
 to make it caustic. The rosin and 
 gamboge are melted together at a mod- 
 erate heat. Pour this melted com- 
 ixuind gradually into the caustic soda- 
 ye until it is no longer dissolved by it. 
 On cooling the compound congeals to a 
 solid mass, which is kept for future 
 use. For water-proofing paper or 
 textile fabrics dissolve 10 parts of this 
 compound in 100 parts of boiling water. 
 Next prepare a solution of 10 parts of 
 alum in 100 parts of water. The paper 
 or fabric is immersed in the first and 
 then in the second solution, and dried 
 by passing between hot rollers or in any 
 other manner. For white paper or fab- 
 rics the gamboge is omitted. 
 
 Composition for Water-proofing 
 Textile Fabrics and Protecting them 
 ar/ainst Moths. Dissolve separately 5 
 parts each of alum and sugar of lead in 
 sufficient water. Heat the solutions 
 and mix them while warm ; then allow 
 the mixture to stand quietly until a 
 precipitate of sulphate of lead is 
 formed. The clear fluid, now contain- 
 ing acetate of alumina, is then poured 
 off and mixed with 500 parts of water 
 
WAX AND WAX PREPARATIONS. 
 
 387 
 
 containing some solution of isinglass. 
 Immerse the articles for 12 hours in 
 this fluid until saturated, then dry and 
 press them. They are water-proof, but 
 not impervious to air, and not attacked 
 by moths. 
 
 WAX AND WAX PREPARATIONS. 
 
 Unadulterated beeswax is of a pure 
 yellow color, has a honey-like smell, 
 breaks easily into small pieces, does 
 not dissolve in cold spirit of wine nor 
 oil of turpentine, and melts at 148.6 F. 
 
 To Bleach Beeswax. A wooden vat 
 of about twice the volume of the wax 
 should be lined with lead and have on 
 its bottom a coil of perforated lead pipe. 
 Faucets should be placed different 
 heights. Thirty parts of water to every 
 50 parts of wax are first placed into the 
 vat, and brought to the boiling point 
 by introducing steam in the serpentine 
 pipe. Then add to the water for every 
 50 parts of wax 6 to 7i parts of potassium 
 bichromate, according to the light or 
 dark color of the wax, and about 24 
 parts of concentrated sulphuric acid. 
 Now melt the wax in water in another 
 vessel by introducing steam, and pour 
 it either directly into the bleaching 
 liquor or allow it first to congeal and 
 add it in a solid state. After the wax 
 has been placed in the bleaching liquor 
 introduce steam through the serpentine 
 pipe, and let the whole boil vigorously 
 for about 1 hour. Steam of about 5> 
 pounds pressure to the square inch 
 should be used ; too hot steam, being 
 injurious to the wax, must be avoided. 
 Take occasionally a sample from the 
 vat and examine it in a test-glass. The 
 process is finished if the wax floats as a 
 green layer upon a black fluid. Let 
 the mass stand quietly for half an hour, 
 then draw the wax off into another vat 
 containing 7i parts of water and i part 
 of sulphuric acid, or, still better, oxalic 
 acid. Heat the mixture to the boiling 
 point by steam introduced through a 
 pipe on the bottom of the vat, and con- 
 tinue boiling iintil the wax has lost its 
 green color. The wax is finally washed 
 with water and poured into moulds. 
 
 Green Wax. Melt 200 parts of yellow 
 wax, 100 parts of white rosin, and 66i 
 parts of ordinary turpentine ; mix the 
 
 compound with 16J parts of pulverized 
 verdigris, and pour the mass, while 
 hot, into paper capsules. 
 
 Black Wax. I. Melt in a copper 
 boiler 550 parts of yellow wax, and add 
 gradually and with constant stirring 50 
 parts of prepared silver litharge, and 
 boil until the compound begins to as- 
 sume a brown color; then add 16i 
 parts of calcined lampblack rubbed 
 very fine, mix thoroughly, and pour 
 the mass into paper capsules. 
 
 II. Melt in a porcelain dish 333 
 parts of yellow wax and 83 parts of 
 Venetian "turpentine; then add gradu- 
 ally and with constant stirring 33 parts 
 of black sulphide of mercury, and pour 
 the mass into paper capsules. 
 
 Red Wax. Melt 20 parts of white 
 wax and 12 of Venetian turpentine, add 
 1 part of fine cinnabar, and pour the 
 mass into paper capsules. 
 
 Polishing Wax. Melt i part of yel- 
 low wax and & of rosin, and add i part 
 of oil of turpentine. 
 
 Polishing Wax for Furniture. Pour 
 3 parts of oil of turpentine over 4 parts 
 of white wax in an earthen vessel, cover 
 the vessel tightly with strong paper, 
 and place it in warm water on the back 
 part of a warm stove to melt the wax. 
 When both substances are united let 
 the mixture cool until it begins to be 
 solid and assume a whitish color, then 
 add and mix with it 2 parts of strong 
 alcohol. 
 
 Another Polishing Wax for Furni- 
 ture is prepared by melting 8 parts of 
 white wax, 2 of rosin, and \ of Venetian 
 turpentine over a moderate fire, pouring 
 the compound while warm into a suit- 
 able earthenware pot, and stirring into 
 it 6 parts of rectified oil of turpentine. 
 In 24 hours the polish will have ac- 
 quired the consistency of soft butter, 
 and is then ready for use. Now care- 
 fully cleanse the furniture with soap- 
 water, and, when dry, apply the polish 
 in a thin layer with a woollen rag, rub- 
 bing first gently and then more vigor- 
 ously. Then let the furniture stand for 
 i to hour, and rub once more thor- 
 oughly with a woollen cloth. 
 
 Wax Soap. Melt part of crumbs 
 of wax in 1 part of caustic soda-lye. 
 Should the soap thus obtained be too 
 caustic add some more wax and rain- 
 water, and unite the whole by melting 
 
588 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 and stirring. This soap is used for 
 waxing floors, etc. 
 
 To Prepare Waxed Paper. Place 
 a level sheet of copper over a moderate 
 coal fire, and cover it with a clean 
 sheet of paper as a basis for the work ; 
 place the paper to be prepared upon 
 this, smear it over with yellow or white 
 wax, and distribute it uniformly over 
 the whole sheet by means of a sponge 
 until the paper is transparent. The 
 success of the work depends principally 
 on the condition of the fire ; it must be 
 neither too strong nor too moderate, as 
 in the first case it blackens the paper, 
 and in the latter makes the labor very 
 difficult. 
 
 Colors for Wax* Work. Every wax- 
 worker should thoroughly understand 
 the mixing of colors to give to the dif- 
 ferent articles fashioned of wax a pleas- 
 ing and natural appearance. The 
 colors given in the following must be 
 rubbed up in oil of turpentine : 
 
 Rose Color. Rub a rose color with 
 fine Vienna lake and Kremuitz white, 
 paint a rose upon the wax candle or 
 other article to be decorated, then add 
 a little more white, making the color 
 somewhat whiter, paint a few rose- 
 petals upon the first red ground, and 
 finally shade with some Vienna 
 lake. 
 
 Yellow F/owers, for instance daffo- 
 dils, are entirely painted with chrome- 
 yellow, with the exception of the pistil, 
 which is executed with Vienna lake, 
 and the work is then shaded with dark 
 och re. 
 
 Blue Color. To paint larkspur, blue 
 gilly flowers, etc., mix Parisian blue 
 with white to a sky-blue, and paint the 
 flower with this. Lighter shades are 
 obtained by adding more white. Shade 
 with Parisian blue. 
 
 Violet Colors. By mixing Parisian 
 blue, white, and Vienna lake, a beau- 
 tiful lilac is obtained. The flower is 
 painted with this; then add some white 
 and Vienna lake to make the color 4 
 shades lighter than the first; paint the 
 petals with this, and shade with fine 
 Vienna lake. 
 
 Leaves are painted alternately with 
 verdigris and mineral green or with 
 chrome-yellow and blue. To produce 
 different tints these colors must be 
 suitably mixed. After the wax ground 
 
 is painted the decoration must be coated 
 with a very light varnish, prepared as 
 follows : Dissolve in 330 parts of spirit 
 of wine 133 parts of sandarac, 33 parts 
 of mastic in grains, and 16 parts of 
 white pine rosin. 
 
 Gold Ground upon Wax. Take some 
 copal lacquer, white lead, and red 
 minium ; paint the flowers and decora- 
 tions with this; allow it to dry and then 
 ! gild it, 
 
 Wax for Waxing Threads to be Woven. 
 Mix 1 part of pulverized graphite with 
 i of pulverized soapstone and li parts 
 of melted beeswax. The compound, 
 when cold, is ready for use. 
 
 Wax Tapers. Two wooden drums 
 having a diameter of 71 to 10 inches are 
 required ; further, a trestle (horse) with 
 two clamps, between which is placed 
 the draw-iron provided with holes of 
 different dimensions. The drums, pro- 
 vided with cranks for turning, stand 
 one on each side of the trestle. Upon 
 one is wound the wick, which is passed 
 through melted wax and then through 
 the narrow hole of the draw-iron, and 
 wound upon the other drum. It is 
 again passed through melted wax and 
 a wider hole of the draw-iron, again 
 wound up, and this operation repeated 
 until it has acquired the desired thick- 
 ness. The room in which the work is 
 done must be moderately warm, so that 
 the wax is kept neither too hard nor too 
 soft. As wax by itself is too brittle it 
 is best to use the following composition : 
 Yellow wax 8 parts, white rosin 4, tal- 
 low 2, and turpentine 2. 
 
 To White Wax add \ of its weight of 
 tallow and A of Venetian turpentine. 
 
 For Coloring the Tapers, vegetable 
 colors, as indigo, infusion of Brazil 
 wood, an n otto, etc., are used. 
 
 Wax Candles. Mix 1 part of white 
 wax and of tallow. Insert the wick 
 in the mould, which should stand accu- 
 rately perpendicular, and, to prevent it 
 from shifting, fasten it in a vessel 
 standing under the mould. Then sat- 
 urate the wick by pouring melted wax 
 over it, and, when this coat has some- 
 what stiffened, continue the pouring 
 until the desired thickness has been 
 obtained. Cut off the candles while 
 still warm, roll them smooth upon a 
 moistened marble plate, and bleach in 
 the sun. The candles must be moist- 
 
WOOD GILDING, POLISHING, STAINING, ETC. 
 
 389 
 
 ened every evening and turned daily 
 until they are sufficiently white. 
 
 Floor Wax. Boil 5 parts of puri- 
 fied potash, 20 parts of water, and 25 
 parts of wax, stirring constantly, until 
 a thickly-fluid and homogeneous com- 
 pound has been formed, and no more 
 watery fluid is separated. Then take 
 the ve'ssel from the fire carefully, add 
 first a few drops of boiling water and 
 then a larger quantity, so as to form a 
 fat-like mass, in which no water can 
 be detected. Then replace the vessel 
 on the fire, heat the compound without 
 allowing it to come to a boil, and add 
 gradually and with constant stirring 
 400 to 450 parts of hot water. 
 
 Yellow Floor Wax is obtained by an 
 addition of finely-pulverized gold ochre 
 to the above composition ; 
 
 Brown, by adding umber; 
 
 Red, by an addition of colcothar; 
 
 Beautiful Golden Yellow, by adding 
 12 parts of golden ochre and 3 parts of 
 anuotto. 
 
 New Compound for Waxing Floors. 
 Linseed oil 200 parts, litharge 20, wax 
 150, tallow 15, molasses 190, lampblack 
 103, oil of turpentine 280, alcohol 35, 
 shellac 5, aniline violet 2. Boil the 
 linseed oil with the litharge for 1 hour, 
 then melt the wax and tallow in the 
 hot fluid, add the molasses, and keep 
 the whole at a temperature of 230 to 
 248 F., until all the water is volatil- 
 ized. Then add the lampblack or any 
 other coloring matter, and, after cool- 
 ing, the oil of turpentine, and finally 
 the shellac dissolved in alcohol and the 
 aniline violet. 
 
 Spirit Lacquer for Lacquering Wax 
 Tapers. Place 25 parts of mastic and 
 250 parts of sandarac in a fine sieve, 
 and suspend the latter in a tin vessel 
 containing 600 parts of alcohol of 96 
 per cent., in such a manner that the 
 resins are just covered with the alcohol. 
 After 24 hours, when all the resins will 
 be dissolved, filter the solution. 
 
 Excellent Modelling Wax. Melt 
 carefully over a moderate coal fire 100 
 parts of yellow wax, and then add 13 
 parts of Venetian turpentine, 6i parts 
 of lard, and 72i parts of elutriated 
 bole. Mix thoroughly, pour the mixt- 
 ure gradually into a vessel containing 
 water, and knead it several times with 
 the hands. The wax must be melted at 
 
 so low a temperature as not to create 
 bubbles. 
 
 WOOD GILDING, POLISHING, STAIN- 
 ING, ETC. 
 
 Extraction and Impregnation of 
 Sounding-board Wood. The object 
 of the invention is to remove the soft 
 rosin from the wood and replace it by 
 a hard resinous substance. The ex- 
 traction is accomplished by placing 
 the boards for 4 hours in petroleum 
 ether, and then drying them in the 
 shade in the open air. To replace the 
 extracted natural rosin by a hard resin- 
 ous substance the boards are placed for 
 2 days in a holder containing a spirit 
 varnish composed of glassy co]*al, sand- 
 arac, pulverized glass, and aloes. The 
 boards are then dried and are ready 
 for use. 
 
 To Prepare Sounding-board Wood. 
 The wood to be prepared is strongly 
 heated for 12 hours in a hermetically- 
 closed boiler, K (Fig. 53). The boiler 
 is then opened for a few hours and the 
 wood, slightly heated, exposed to the 
 action of ozone. The oxygen is gener- 
 ated in the reservoir A, which, like the 
 boiler K, is lined with charnotte* to 
 protect it against the action of the 
 oxygen, and ozonized in the boiler K 
 by electrical sparks. By this process 
 the resinous and fatty constituents of 
 the wood are extracted. 
 
 To Make Wood Flexible and Fire- 
 proof. To accomplish this the rosins 
 contained in the wood are saponified, 
 and the acids neutralized with alkalies 
 obtained from wood ash. Although 
 all alkaline combinations possess the 
 property of rendering vegetable sub- 
 stances more or less flexible and fire- 
 proof, the carbonates are preferable ; 
 they are used in the following manner : 
 Dissolve carbonate of potassium or 
 sodium in cold clear water, and add 
 calcium hydrate to the solution. Then 
 immerse the boards or timber in the 
 alkaline solution until a coating A to 
 i inch thick has been formed, which 
 will require about 5 to 12 hours. A 
 
 * Chamotteis a mixture of nnburnt fire-clay 
 and dust of fire-bricks, glass pots, or seggara, 
 
390 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL EECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Fig. 53. 
 
 coating J inch thick suffices to render 
 building timber fire-proof, but in case 
 great flexibility with absolute non- 
 inflammability is desired, a thicker 
 coating or even an entire saturation of 
 the timber will be necessary, which is 
 accomplished by hydraulic pressure. 
 
 Thin veneers of any dense, veined 
 wood treated in the above manner can 
 be rendered sufficiently flexible to re- 
 semble tanned leather. To attain this 
 result immerse the veneers in the alka- 
 line solution for a sufficiently long 
 time to acquire a transparent appear- 
 ance, which will require from 15 to 40 
 minutes, according to their nature and 
 thickness. They are then allowed to 
 dry, and rolled and pressed between 
 steel cylinders or plates. Veneers 
 treated in this manner can be used for 
 many purposes instead of leather, and 
 are especially well adapted for chair 
 bottoms, wainscoting, etc. 
 
 To Render Wood Incombustible and 
 Impermeable. Folbacci uses a process 
 by which wood is, so to say, petrified 
 without losing its ordinary appearance. 
 It will bear any degree of heat without 
 the primary substance suffering any 
 change, except the formation of an ex- 
 traordinarily thin charred coating, 
 which falls off on the lightest touch. 
 The process is as follows : Heat in a 
 
 boiler 55 parts of water to 113 F., and 
 then add 55 parts of sulphate of zinc, 
 22 of potash, 44 of alum, and 22 of 
 manganic oxide. When all are dis- 
 solved, add gradually 22 parts of sul- 
 phuric acid of 60, until the compound 
 is thoroughly saturated. Then place 
 the pieces of wood into the compound 
 in such a manner that they lie about 
 2 inches apart, allowing them to re- 
 main for 3 hours, and then dried in the 
 open air. 
 
 To Render Wood Fire-proof. Boil 
 the wood first in a solution of potas- 
 sium sulphate and, after drying, heat it 
 together with a mixture of coal-tar and 
 argillaceous admixtures, by which it 
 acquires a durable coating of a mixt- 
 ure of asbestos and fire-clay. Heat the 
 wood thus treated in a steam -vat be- 
 tween layers of clay, whereby the coat- 
 ing is firmly united with the wood. 
 Timber prepared in this manner is fire 
 and weather-proof, and well adapted 
 for building purposes. 
 
 To Render Wood' Impermeable to 
 Water. Even the softest kind of wood, 
 as that of the poplar and lime tree, can 
 be made water-proof by the following 
 process : Coat the article several times 
 with hot linseed-oil varnish, and finally 
 apply quite a thick layer of polish. 
 Wooden gutters for holding water for 
 
WOOD GILDING, POLISHING, STAINING, ETC. 
 
 591 
 
 moistening the threads in throwing silk 
 and thread were made water-proof in 
 this manner. 
 
 How Oziers can be Peeled in Winter. 
 Steam the oziers for 10 to 14 minutes in 
 a closed cylinder, and then place them 
 for 24 hours in water of about 100 F. 
 
 Staining Wood for Fine Cabinet 
 Work. Denninger, of Mayence, has 
 made a series of experiments in staining 
 maple wood. Of the coloring matters 
 used he prefers decidedly the alcoholic 
 extracts to aqueous decoctions, since, on 
 account of the woods having to remain 
 longer in the decoction, the pores are 
 opened too widely and the coloring mat- 
 ter penetrates too deeply into the soft 
 parts of the wood, while the hard parts 
 remain almost untouched. For soft 
 varieties of wood aqueous coloring ex- 
 tracts must therefore be entirely avoided. 
 Denninger advises also against the use 
 of strong acids, as aqua fortis, hydro- 
 chloric and sulphuric acids, since the 
 slightest excess of these acids exerts 
 later on an injurious and frequently 
 destroying effect upon the polish. The 
 alcoholic extracts are of course more 
 expensive than the aqueous decoctions, 
 but they furnish a more uniform and 
 intense coloring and go a great deal 
 further. 
 
 Denninger made use of the following 
 coloring matters and other materials : 
 
 a. Gallic Acid. This is prepared by 
 pouring ordinary spirit of wine over 
 pulverized black or white gall-nuts, 
 allowing the mixture to stand in a 
 warm place for a few days, stirring 
 frequently, and then straining it. 
 
 b. Sulphate of Iron. Roast it in an 
 iron pan over a coal fire until it turns 
 reddish ; when cold pulverize it, and 
 pour spirit of wine over it. 
 
 c. Logwood Shavings, d. Pulverized 
 Sander swood. e. Saffron and Annotto. 
 Pour spirit of wine over them and 
 treat the tincture as given under a. 
 
 d. Shavings of .Brazil Wood, and g. of 
 Fustic, h. Crushed Persian Berries. 
 Pour water over them and use the in- 
 fusion cold. 
 
 e. Pulverized Cochineal. Boil it 
 with double its weight of spirit of am- 
 monia and water in a water-bath until 
 the spirit of ammonia is volatilized; 
 then mix the fluid with spirit of wine, 
 and filter. 
 
 /. Aqueous Decoction of Logwood 
 is compounded with some solution of 
 alum in water. The precipitate formed 
 is collected upon a paper filter, dried 
 and formed into a paste with a few 
 drops of hydrochloric acid, and then 
 dissolved in spirit of wine. 
 
 g. Pulverized Indigo. Dissolve in- 
 digo in four times its own weight of 
 fuming sulphuric acid, allow the solu- 
 tion t stand in a warm place for a few 
 days and then dilute it with water. 
 
 h. Solution of Tin. Dissolve 50 
 parts of granulated tin by boiling in 50 
 parts of hydrochloric acid ; or, A 1 , dis- 
 solve 33J parts of granulated tin by 
 boiling it in 50 parts of hydrochloric 
 acid. And also ^ to i ounce each of 
 the following salts: i. Alum. j. Potas- 
 sium bichromate, k. Potassium ferro~ 
 cyanide, and /. Sulphate of copper. 
 Dissolve the salts in so much water 
 that a part of them remains undis- 
 solved on the bottom of the vessel. 
 
 In the following we give a number 
 of colors and the materials used by 
 Denninger in producing them : 
 
 Blue. Dilute a solution of indigo 
 with a sufficient quantity of water. 
 
 Bluish-brown. Dilute a solution of 
 logwood extract with spirit of wine, 
 and add some solution of tin (h 1 ). 
 
 Bluish-gray. Dilute a solution of 
 cochineal strongly with spirit of wine, 
 and add solution of indigo. 
 
 Blue-black. Dilute a solution of ex- 
 tract of logwood with spirit of wine, 
 and add solution of sulphate of iron. 
 
 Brown. Mix equal parts of solution 
 of extract of logwood and solution of 
 saffron, dilute with spirit of wine, and 
 add some solution of tin (k.). 
 
 Brownish-red. Mix a decoction of 
 Brazil wood with some solution of 
 tin (A 1 ). 
 
 Crimson. Dilute a solution of cochi- 
 neal with spirit of wine. 
 
 Dark Gray. Use first extract of gall 
 nuts, then solution of sulphate of iron, 
 and finally indigo solution diluted with 
 water. 
 
 Greenish. Extract of saffron with 
 an addition of some indigo solution. 
 
 Green. Same as above with an addi- 
 tion of more indigo. 
 
 Gretnisk-gray. Mix decoctions of 
 gall nuts, sulphate of iron, and fustic 
 with some solution of indigo. 
 
TSCIINO-CIIEMICAL EECEIPT BOOK, 
 
 Yellowish- gray. Decocti on of Persi a n 
 berries mixed with some solution of 
 sulphate of iron. 
 
 Light Brown. Sulphate of copper 
 dissolved in water, then solution of 
 potassium ferrocyanicle in water with 
 an addition of some hydrochloric acid. 
 
 Cherry-red. Decoction of Brazil 
 wood diluted witli spirit of wine, and 
 then solution of tin (A.). 
 
 Orange. An notto or saffron dissolved 
 in spirit of wine. 
 
 Red. Solution of cochineal mixed 
 with solution of saffron. 
 
 Red-brown. Dissolve precipitate of 
 logwood (/.) in spirit of wine com- 
 pounded with some hydrochloric acid. 
 
 Rose Color. Compound a solution 
 of cochineal with some alum water. 
 
 Straw Color. Use first decoction of 
 Persian berries and next solution of 
 tin (h.) much diluted with water. 
 
 Other Stains on Wood. Thimm's 
 Patent. The woods are painted with 
 suitable concentrated solution of metal- 
 lic salts, and then thoroughly dried, 
 which will require about 12 hours. 
 They are then placed in a closed room 
 into which gases, as sulphide of hydro- 
 gen, ammonia, etc., are introduced 
 according to the combination to be pro- 
 duced. 
 
 By using sulphide of hydrogen the 
 following colors are obtained : 
 
 Brown from bismuth sulphide formed 
 from bismuth nitrates. 
 
 Yellow from cadmium sulphide 
 formed from solutions of cadmium sul- 
 phate. 
 
 Golden Yellow from stannic sulphide 
 formed from solutions of stannous 
 chloride (tin salt). 
 
 Iron Gray to Brown from lead mono- 
 sulphide formed from a solution of 
 acetate of lead. 
 
 Green from chromium sesquioxide 
 formed from solutions of chromic acid. 
 
 Red from antimony trisulphide 
 f >rmed from solutions of antimony. 
 
 The cost of this process is very small, 
 since 2 pounds of any of the solutions 
 will cover 100 square feet of wood sur- 
 face. The woods can also be provided 
 with various designs in any color de- 
 sired. The colors are not affected by 
 air, light, or water. 
 
 The very cheap solution of ferric 
 hydrate in ferric chloride is used for 
 
 completely saturating floors, staif -steps, 
 and other articles subjected to strong 
 wear, which are then colored by means 
 of ammonia. Wood thus treated is 
 also far less inflammable than when 
 painted. 
 
 Black Ground for Lacquering. Grind 
 fine ivory-black in shellac- varnish upon 
 a sione slab with a muller until a per- 
 fectly smooth varnish is obtained. The 
 following directions give good black 
 grounds : 
 
 I. One pound each of asphaltum 
 and copaiba balsam and the necessary 
 quantity of turpentine. Melt the 
 asphaltum over a fire, then add the 
 balsam previously heated, and finally 
 the oil of turpentine. II. Moisten 
 lampblack with oil of turpentine and 
 rub it very fine upon the stone with a 
 muller. Then add ordinary copal 
 varnish and mix all thoroughly. III. 
 Take 3 ounces of asphaltum, 4 quarts 
 of boiled linseed-oil, 8 ounces of burnt 
 umber, and some turpentine. Melt the 
 asphaltum, stir the oil previously heated 
 into it, then the umber, and, when cool, 
 dilute the mixture with turpentine. 
 IV. An extra black is obtained from 12 
 
 ounces of umber, 2 ounces of purified 
 
 spl 
 oil, 2 ounces of rosin, and IV pints of 
 
 asphaltum, pint of boiled linseed- 
 
 turpentine. Melt the asphaltum and 
 rosin together, add the oil in a hot 
 state, stir thoroughly, and then mix 
 the turpentine with it. V. A white 
 ground is obtained by mixing equal 
 parts of copal varnish and zinc white 
 or starch. 
 
 To Stain Walking Canes. I. Apply 
 to the sticks in a natural state a more 
 or less concentrated solution of calcium 
 hydrate in water, according as the stain 
 is" to be more or less dark. 
 
 II. Dissolve iron filings in sulphuric 
 acid, apply the solution to the sticks in 
 a natural state, and burn them at once 
 over a fire of wood shavings. This 
 burning must be done thoroughly, as 
 stains, spoiling the work, will be 
 formed in case any places remain un- 
 touched by the fire. 
 
 To Stain Maple Wood Silver-gray. 
 I. Upon the bottom of a water-tight box 
 place a layer of grindstone sand (from 
 the troughs of grindstones) upon this 
 wood, and then again a layer of grind- 
 stone sand. Then pour over it sufficient 
 
WOOD GILDING, POLISHING, STAINING, ETC. 
 
 393 
 
 rain water to cover the Avhole, and 
 place the box in a warm place for 3 to 
 5 weeks. Eeplace occasionally the 
 water lost by evaporation, so that the 
 wood is never dry. By this process a 
 beautiful silver-gray color is produced 
 on maple and lime wood. 
 
 II. Place the wood for 3 to 4 hours 
 in a decoction of 1 part of pulverized 
 gall nuts in 10 of water, and then for 1 
 hour in a solution of 1 part of sul- 
 phate of iron in 60 of cold water, and 
 then brush it off with a soft brush dipped 
 in a solution of 1 part of alum in 18 of 
 water, and allow it to dry. Should 
 the color be too light repeat the process, 
 but allowing it to remain in the baths 
 only a few minutes. 
 
 III. Pour sharp vinegar over iron 
 filings and alum, and brush the wood 
 over with the solution until the desired 
 silver color is obtained. Gall nuts 
 converted into coarse powder may also 
 be used in place of the iron filings. 
 
 IV. Dissolve verdigris in vinegar or 
 crystallized verdigris in water, and 
 paint the wood with the solution until 
 it has acquired the tint desired. The 
 solution may be used either warm or 
 cold. 
 
 Ebony Stains. To prepare a very 
 fine ebony stain applicable especially 
 to pear or walnut woods boil 40 parts 
 of gall nuts, 4 parts of rasped logwood, 
 5 parts each of sulphate of iron and 
 verdigris with water, strain through 
 linen and apply the warm fluid to the 
 wood, and then give it 3 coats of a warm 
 solution of 10 parts of iron filings in 75 
 parts of vinegar. 
 
 For Veneers which are to be stained 
 through and through place 16 parts of 
 sal-ammoniac and a sufficient quantity 
 of steel filings in an earthenware pot, 
 pour strong vinegar over them, and let 
 it stand for 14 days in a moderately 
 warm oven. Then pour sharp lye into 
 another pot, add gall nuts converted 
 into a coarse powder and shavings of 
 blue Brazil wood, and let the whole 
 stand in a warm place for a few days. 
 This gives an excellent stain. 
 
 Boil the veneers for a few hours in 
 the first stain of sal-ammoniac and 
 steel filings, and let them remain 
 therein for 3 days. Then place them 
 in the second s'tain, and proceed in 
 the same manner as with the first. 
 
 In case the veneers should not be en- 
 tirely colored through repeat the opera, 
 tion. 
 
 Stain for Floors. Boil 25 parts of 
 fustic and 12* of Brazil wood with 1000 
 parts of soap-boiler's lye, to which has 
 been added 12V parts of potash. When 
 the liquid is boiled down to 700 or 800 
 parts, add 3J parts of.annotto and 75 
 parts of wax, and when this is melted 
 stir the compound until it is cold. It 
 is of a brown-red color, and the above 
 quantity suffices to keep a floor in good 
 condition for a year by applying it 
 once a week, and rubbing it on" with a 
 brush. 
 
 Staining Wood for Veneers, Mosaics, 
 etc. Treat the wood for 24 hours with 
 a 10 per cent, caustic soda-lye, then 
 boil it therein for half an hour and 
 wash it to remove the alkali. This 
 prepares the wood for the reception of 
 the color. Dry the wood with filtering 
 paper and press it to preserve the shape. 
 Then immerse it for 24 hours in a dye- 
 bath consisting of ^ dye-wood and 5 
 liquid, turn it occasionally, and throw 
 it in a bath of 1 part of sulphate of iron 
 to 3 of water, and the result will be a 
 beautiful black. 
 
 Yellow is obtained with 1 part of 
 picric acid dissolved in 60 of water. 
 
 Various Rose-colored Tints by add- 
 ing a little caustic soda to coralline. 
 
 Red Stain. Immerse the wood in a 
 solution of 3J parts of Marseilles soup 
 in 100 of water, and then apply aniline 
 red sufficiently diluted to give the 
 desired tint. 
 
 Violet. Treat the wood in a bath 
 consisting of 12 J parts of olive oil, a 
 like quantity of calcined soda, and 125 
 parts of boiling water; then stain with 
 aniline red to which tin salt has been 
 added. 
 
 Blue is produced in the same manner, 
 except that aniline blue is used as a 
 stain. 
 
 Green. Mordant the wood first with 
 a solution of aluminium acetate of 
 1 B., and then place it in a decoction 
 of Persian berries and indigo-carmine. 
 Quercitron may also be used in place 
 of Persian berries. 
 
 Bright Red. Boil for 3 hours 6J parts 
 of cochineal ground veryfine in 100 
 parts of water, and paint the wood with 
 the solution. When dry apply a coat 
 
394 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 of a solution 3 : V parts of tin-sa2t and 1J 
 parts of tartaric acid in 100 parts of 
 water. 
 
 Brown in Various Tints is produced 
 by mordanting the wood with potas- 
 sium bichromate, and applying later on 
 decoctions of fustic, logwood, or Brazil 
 wood. 
 
 Mower's Method of Staining Wood 
 Rose Color by Chemical Precipitation, 
 Wood, and also vegetable ivory, can be 
 colored rose-red without much difficulty 
 by chemical precipitation. The result- 
 ing color is very brilliant and uniform. 
 
 First Bath. This consists of 8 parts 
 of potassium iodide to 100 parts of 
 water. 
 
 Second Bath. Two and one-half 
 parts of corrosive sublimate to 100 parts 
 of water. 
 
 Immerse the wood for a few hours in 
 the first bath. Then place it in the 
 second, in which it will acquire a 
 beautiful rose-red color. The wood, 
 after drying, is varnished. Both baths 
 can be repeatedly used without renew- 
 ing them. 
 
 New Polish for Wood. Compound 
 an alcoholic solution of 3 parts of shel- 
 lac with a solution of 100 parts of collo- 
 dion cotton and 50 parts of camphor in 
 ethyl alcohol. For finishing use a 
 mixture of benzole and alcohol. 
 
 Moody's New Polish consists of 8 
 parts of rectified wood spirit, 1 of 
 shellac, and i of benzoin, and if desired 
 l^s of dragon's-blood may be added. 
 Dissolve the ingredients by heating, 
 and filter the solution through flannel. 
 Apply with a eameFs-hair brush. 
 
 Gilding on Wood. The gilding on 
 wood, called oil gold, cannot be bur- 
 nished, aud is always of the natural 
 color of unwrought gold. It has the 
 advantage that it may be washed and 
 cleansed with water, which burnished 
 gold will not stand. It is often used for 
 parts of furniture and mouldings of 
 rooms, and as it stands the weather it 
 is also employed for outside work. 
 The surface to be gilded must first be 
 rubbed smooth with shave grass. After 
 this apply a priming of glue size and 
 two coats of oil paint and one of flat- 
 ting. To enrich the color of the gold 
 these last may be laid down in red or 
 yellow. White, however, is usually 
 preferred, as the darker color renders 
 
 any imperfection in the gold-sizing 
 more difficult to detect. When the 
 last coat of paint is thoroughly dry, 
 rub it over with wash leather to render 
 it smooth and free from dust and grit. 
 If any patterns or figures are to be left 
 ungilded, they should be lightly 
 pounced over with white to prevent the 
 gold-leaf adhering to them. Another 
 way is to paint them over with the 
 white of egg diluted with water. If 
 any gold sticks to this it can be easily 
 washed or wiped oif with a moistened 
 linen cloth. When all is ready for 
 sizing strain sufficient size through 
 muslin, and put some out on the palette, 
 adding to it enough ochre or vermilion, 
 mixed with oil alone, to color. Then 
 with a stiff hog-hair tool commence 
 painting it on the surface, taking care 
 to lay it on smoothly and not too thick, 
 as in the latter case it runs and leaves 
 wrinkles .in the gilding. Size always 
 from left to right, beginning on the top 
 of the surface, and working downward. 
 Move the brush lightly and firmly, 
 mapping out the surface to be sized 
 into several squares, and finishing and 
 cross-hatching each before proceeding 
 onwards. If there are patterns to be left 
 ungilded, carefully trace round their 
 outline with a sable pencil, and then 
 fill in the interstices. When the 
 whole surface is covered with size, give 
 it a thorough inspection to make sure 
 there is no faulty portion, and if there 
 is, delicately touch in the size with a 
 small pencil. When very perfect gild- 
 ing is required it should be sized twice, 
 the first coat being allowed to dry 
 thoroughly before the second is applied. 
 In carved work be careful to dip the 
 brush down into the hollows of the 
 carving. It is a good plan to size over 
 night so as to gild in the morning. But 
 all size does not dry alike, sometimes 
 taking 12 to 24 or 30 hours before it is 
 ready for the gold-leaf, in damp weather 
 or locations always more than in dry. 
 The readiness of the size can only be 
 ascertained by the touch. If on being 
 touched by the finger the surface daubs 
 or comes off it is not ready, but if it 
 feels clammy and sticky it is sufficiently 
 dry. If too dry it must be sized again. 
 The books of gold-leaf 'should always 
 be placed before a fire half an hour 
 previous to use, in order to dry the 
 
WOOD-GILDING, POLISHING, STAINING, ETC. 
 
 395 
 
 gold and make it more manageable. | 
 When all is ready, shake out several | 
 leaves upon the gold cushion, and blow 
 them towards the parchment screen. 
 Then carefully raise one leaf with the 
 blade of a knife, and place it on the 
 cushion, gently breathing on it to 
 flatten it out. If it curls up, work it 
 about with the knife-blade until it lies 
 flat. Then replace the knife in its loop 
 under the cushion, and taking the tip 
 pass it lightly over your hair, thus 
 acquiring sufficient greasiness to enable 
 the gold to stick to it. Lay the hairy 
 portion of the tip upon the gold-leaf, 
 and then raising it apply it to the 
 sized surface. As in sizing, work from 
 left to right, and be especially careful 
 to let each leaf overlap slightly, so as 
 to avoid gaps and spaces. Lay on 
 whole leaves as far as the space permits, 
 and then proceed to gild the curves and 
 corners which need smaller pieces. 
 Place a leaf flat and smooth on the 
 cushion, and then taking the knife in 
 the right hand draw the edge easily 
 and evenly along it with a gentle press- 
 ure. Divide the leaf into as many 
 pieces as required, and lay on as before. 
 When all the ground is complete inspect 
 it carefully to make sure there are no 
 portions ungilt, however small, and 
 mend them at once. Next take a piece 
 of cotton-wool and gently dab or press 
 the gold down all over, finally brushing 
 off the superfluous pieces either with 
 cotton-wool or a camel's-hair brush. It 
 is a good plan to stipple the gold with 
 a large stiff hog-bristle tool, quite dry 
 and clean, as this gradually softens and 
 removes the marks of joining and other 
 little imperfections. Finally smooth 
 the gold with a clean piece of wash- 
 leather, and it is completed. With 
 regard to gilding with japanner's size 
 the same instructions apply, except as 
 to the time necessary to wait between 
 sizing and gilding. If japanner's size 
 is used pure, it will be ready in from 
 20 to 30 minutes, but better gilding can 
 be made by mixing one-third oil size 
 with two-thirds of japanner's size. This 
 will be ready in about 2 to 4 hours 
 from the time of putting on. When all 
 the gilding is finished, dilute 1 part of 
 very clean and pure parchment size 
 with 2 parts of water, and brush it over 
 the entire surface of the gold to enrich 
 
 and preserve it. If it is necessary to 
 gild in a position much exposed to 
 touch, as the base of a pillar or string- 
 courses, it is as well to give the gold a 
 coat of mastic varnish thinned with 
 turpentine. There are various pro- 
 cesses which tend to enrich and vary 
 the effect of gilding. Glazings of trans- 
 parent colors are sometimes applied for 
 the purpose of deadening its lustre. 
 Raw sienna passed thinly over a sheet 
 of gold gives it a leathery appearance. 
 A good effect may be produced by 
 stencilling a small pattern in umber, 
 sienna, or Indian red over gold, es- 
 pecially if there is foliage or arabesque 
 work upon the gilding, as the small 
 design affords an agreeable relief. This 
 is the easiest mode of gilding; any 
 other metallic leaves can be applied in 
 a similar manner. 
 
 American Process of Preserving 
 Wood. The wood, while immersed in 
 a bath of creosote, is subjected to a 
 temperature above the boiling point of 
 water and below 300 F. until all the 
 moisture is expelled. When the water 
 is thus expelled the pores contain only 
 steam ; the hot oil is then quickly re- 
 placed by a bath of cold oil which con- 
 denses steam in the pores, and forms a 
 vacuum into which the oil is forced by 
 atmospheric pressure and capillary at- 
 traction. A wooden platform thor- 
 oughly creosoted will last twenty 4;o 
 thirty years, and be better than a stone 
 platform during that entire period. 
 
 Preparation of Mine-timber. Ex- 
 periments on a large scale have been 
 made at the Commenlry Coal Mines in 
 France in regard to mine-timber im- 
 pregnated with different substances. 
 The experiments were executed at the 
 same time with different varieties of 
 wood, the following table giving the 
 result of all the experiments : 
 
 Relative Durability of the Timbers : 
 
 Without preparation 1.00 
 
 After immersion in the mine-water . . 1.40 
 
 Charred 2.44 
 
 Impregnated with tar 7.42 
 
 " sulphate of copper . 9.77 
 " sulphate of iron . . 11.11 
 
 " " creosote 16.36 
 
 " " chloride of zinc . .34.00 
 
 Unprepared oak wood lasted at an 
 average 4} years, beech wood 2, pine, 
 cherry, and poplar woods H, and acacia 
 
396 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 wood 6 to 9 months. Of the different 
 varieties of tar, wood tar gave the best 
 results, but its high price prevents its 
 general use. Tar gained from peat 
 gave less favorable results, but better 
 than coal-tar. The French experiments 
 showed that while the durability of oak 
 timber was considerably increased and 
 sometimes doubled by an impregnation 
 with coal-tar, that of pine was but little 
 augmented, it making no difference 
 whether the tar was used in a cold 
 state or heated to 284 F. The use of 
 sulphate of iron gave the following re- 
 sults : 1. While unprepared oak 
 showed signs of decay after 2 years, 
 impregnated with sulphate of iron it 
 lasted 30 years. 2. Immersing the 
 timber for 24 hours in a solution con- 
 taining 20 parts of sulphate of iron to 
 100 parts of water gives just as good re- 
 sults as a longer immersion in a stronger 
 solution. 3. The action of a solution 
 of sulphate of iron is just as effective 
 on green as on seasoned wood, and 
 alike on oak and pine woods. The 
 impregnation with sulphate of iron costs 
 about 4 cent per running foot of timber. 
 
 The experiments seem to prove con- 
 clusively that sulphate of iron is to be 
 preferred for impregnating mine-tim- 
 ber. The apparatus required for pre- 
 paring 100 pieces of mine-timber daily 
 costs, with all appurtenances, about 
 1860 francs ($372). 
 
 Shrinking of Wood. It is of impor- 
 tance for every mechanic to know the 
 percentage of shrinkage in wood. In 
 the following table, I. gives the per- 
 centage of shrinkage in the direction 
 of the fibres ; II. in the direction of the 
 semi-diameter of the trunk, and III. in 
 vertical direction : 
 
 Wood. 
 
 
 bs. per 
 
 Wood. lb 'P er 
 
 
 
 sq. in. 
 
 sq. ill. 
 
 Ash . 
 
 
 6280 
 
 Maple . . . 6355 
 
 Beech . 
 
 
 5223 
 
 Oak (white) . 4425 
 
 Birch 
 
 
 5.W5 
 
 " (live) . . 8480 
 
 Cedar (whit 
 
 ) 
 
 1445 
 
 Pine (white) . 2480 
 
 " (Cent 
 
 al 
 
 
 " (yellow 
 
 American) 
 
 
 3410 
 
 Northern) . . 4340 
 
 Cherry . 
 
 
 2 ( J45 
 
 Pine (yellow 
 
 Chestnut 
 
 
 1535 
 
 Southern) . . 5735 
 
 Dogwood 
 
 
 6510 
 
 Pine (yellow, 
 
 Ebony 
 
 
 7750 
 
 very resinous) 5053 
 
 Gum 
 
 
 5890 
 
 Poplar . . . 4418 
 
 Hemlock 
 
 
 2750 
 
 Spruce . . . 3255 
 
 Hickory 
 
 
 P045 
 
 7285 
 
 Walnut (black) 4728 
 ' ' (com- 
 
 Locust . 
 
 
 7176 
 
 mon) . . . 2830 
 
 
 I. 
 
 II. 
 
 III. 
 
 Hornbeam (iron wood) 
 Beech 
 
 0.21 
 20 
 
 6.82 
 5 25 
 
 8.00 
 7 03 
 
 Field maple .... 
 Elm 
 
 0.00 
 005 
 
 2.03 
 3 85 
 
 2.97 
 4 10 
 
 Maple 
 
 0.11 
 
 2 06 
 
 4 13 
 
 Birch . . 
 
 50 
 
 3 05 
 
 3 19 
 
 Oak 
 
 0.00 
 
 2.65 
 
 4.13 
 
 \sh . . . 
 
 0.26 
 
 5 35 
 
 6 90 
 
 Aspen 
 
 00 
 
 3.97 
 
 3 33 
 
 Kound-leaved willow . 
 Lime 
 
 0.00 
 0.10 
 
 2.07 
 5.73 
 
 1.90 
 
 7.17 
 
 Pine . . 
 
 000 
 
 2.49 
 
 2 87 
 
 Pitch pine 
 Alder 
 
 0.09 
 0.30 
 
 2.08 
 3.16 
 
 2.62 
 
 4.15 
 
 
 
 
 
 Strength of some American Woods, 
 In view of the frequent use of wooden 
 pins, J. C. Trautwine made experi- 
 ments by which cylindrical pins | inch 
 diameter were sheared off. Each sam- 
 ple was subjected to two tests; where 
 the difference was not more than 10 
 per cent, the average is given. The 
 principal results were as follows : 
 
 Hard Coating for Wood. To coat 
 wood with a substance as hard as stone 
 mix intimately 40 parts of lime, 50 of 
 resin, and 4 of linseed oil, and add 1 
 part each of cupric oxide and sulphuric 
 acid. Apply the hot mixture with a 
 brush. 
 
 Imitation of Cedar Wood. To give 
 soft, white wood used for turned arti- 
 cles and lead-pencils the appearance 
 of cedar wood the following stain is 
 used: Two hundred parts by weight 
 of catechu, 100 of caustic soda, and 
 10,000 of water. The finished article is 
 boiled in the stain for a few hours, 
 rinsed, and dried. If not sufficiently 
 deep in color boil for some time 
 longer. 
 
 This stain penetrates the wood so 
 deeply that veneers of considerable 
 thickness will be penetrated through 
 and through, so that articles made from 
 it can be afterwards worked further 
 without the original color of the wood 
 making its appearance. 
 
 New Glaze for Barrels, Vats, etc. 
 Mix intimately 2 parts of plaster of 
 Paris find 1 part of finely-pulver- 
 ized asbestos, with sufficient fresh 
 bullocks' blood to form a thick 
 mass, but so that it can be worked with 
 a brush. Apply a uniform coat of this 
 to the dry wood, and after a few hours 
 
WOOD-GILDING, POLISHING, STAINING, ETC. 
 
 397 
 
 give a second coat, to which it is advan- 
 tageous to a<ld a small quantity of lin- 
 seed-oil varnish. If necessary to dry 
 the barrel quickly suspend a basin with 
 live coals in it, but the heat should be 
 moderate, and it is preferable to let the 
 barrel stand for a few days in a dry, 
 warm room. 
 
 Before use, heat the barrel with 
 steam, and then allow it to dry out. If 
 properly done the layer of glaze will 
 adhere tightly, never show cracks, nor 
 scale off. The glaze on a vat used for 9 
 months for boiling starch with sul- 
 
 Ehuric acid was well preserved, and in 
 ict had become somewhat harder. 
 
 As the process is very cheap and 
 simple, and the materials are entirely 
 harmless and impart no odor or taste to 
 liquids brought in contact with them, 
 it is especially adapted for breweries, 
 distilleries, starch manufactories, and 
 other industries where, wooden vessels 
 are exposed to the action of acids. 
 
 New Method of Drying Wood. The fol- 
 lowing process to dry green wood in 10 
 to 14 days, without the use of heat, is 
 patented in Germany. The wood is 
 freed from the bark and then imbedded 
 in animal charcoal, bone-black, or peat 
 dust The moisture in the wood is 
 
 10 to 14 days the wood is removed, and, 
 it is claimed, is free from cracks, quite 
 dry, and ready to be worked. 
 
 New Paint for Wooden Posts, etc. 
 I Fifty parts of rosin, 40 of finely-pulver- 
 ized' chalk, 500 of fine, sharp, white 
 sand, 4 of linseed oil, 1 of native red 
 oxide, and 1 of sulphuric acid. 
 
 Heat the rosin, chalk, sand, and lin- 
 seed oil in an iron boiler, add the red 
 oxide, and then very carefully the sul- 
 phuric acid. Mix all thoroughly, and 
 apply the hot mixture to the wood by 
 means of a stiff brush. Should the 
 mixture be too thick dilute with some 
 linseed oil. When cold and dry this 
 paint forms a varnish hard as stone and 
 impermeable to all moisture. 
 
 New Process of Preserving Wood. 
 By this process wood is saturated with 
 paraffme, resins, fats, or heavy tar oils 
 by dissolving them in petroleum or 
 benzine instead, as was formerly the 
 case, by heating them to a high tem- 
 perature. Such solutions penetrate the 
 wood much easier than thickly-fluid 
 substances. 
 
 It is best to force the solutions into 
 the wood under pressure, for which the 
 pneumatic methods slightly modified 
 can be used, so that the solvent can be 
 
 Fig. 54. 
 
 eagerly absorbed by these substances. 
 Care must be had to cover the wood 
 completely, as otherwise the places ex- 
 posed to the air will form cracks. After 
 
 regained after impregnating the wood. 
 We give in Figs. 54 and 55 an apparatus 
 by which this object can be attained. 
 A is the impregnating boiler, BB the 
 
898 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 steam-jacket, and Cthe condenser. The 
 boiler is provided on top with the 
 escape-pipe s for the vapors to be con- 
 densed, the manometer v and the pipe 
 i for the introduction of the impreg- 
 nating mixture. The boiler is further 
 provided with a removable cover h. In 
 the interior are the rails /, upon which 
 the carriage w with the ties, etc., is in- 
 troduced. The steam-jacket is provided 
 with the pipe a for the introduction of 
 steam, and the escape-pipe b, and on 
 the lower side with a cock for drawing 
 off the condensed water. The cooling 
 vat D receives a cooling coil, of which 
 5 is the receiving and t the discharging 
 end. The water runs in through the 
 pi pe d, and escapes through the pipe e. 
 R is a vessel placed under D for the re- 
 ception of the regained distillate. 
 
 To execute the operation the solution 
 prepared as described further on is 
 forced under pressure into the thor- 
 oughly dried wood in the same manner 
 as in the Bethell process. After suffi- 
 cient impregnation the pressure is shut 
 off, and after connecting the impreg- 
 nating boiler with the cooling coil, the 
 volatile solvent is distilled off by ad- 
 mitting steam into the steam-jacket, 
 distillation being continued as long as 
 considerable quantities of solvent pass 
 over. 
 
 The following mixtures are consid- 
 ered especially well adapted for im- 
 pregnation : I. Three parts of rosin, 1 
 part of paraffine, and sufficient benzine 
 to make a thinly-fluid solution. II. 
 Two parts of heavy tar oil, 1 part of 
 paraffine, and benzine sufficient for 
 solution. 
 
 The best manner of dissolving the 
 substances is as follows : Melt the par- 
 affine, pour in double the quantity of 
 benzine, and add the pulverized rosin. 
 The solution of the mixture with tar 
 oil is effected in the same manner by 
 first dissolving the tar oil in benzine 
 and then adding the pulverized colo- 
 phony. 
 
 The solution is best effected in a ves- 
 sel provided with a cover made tight 
 by water-closing and heated by steam. 
 By continuing distillation sufficiently 
 long and having good cooling appa- 
 ratus, the loss of benzine will be very 
 slight. 
 
 It is believed that wood impregnated 
 
 in this manner is especially durable in 
 moist places or under water. 
 
 Polishing Wax for Wood. Melt 
 over a moderate fire 1 pound of yellow 
 beeswax and pound of rosin, and after 
 removing the vessel from the fire add i 
 pound of oil of turpentine. Allow the 
 mixture to cool with constant stirring, 
 and apply it to the wood with a woollen 
 rag, rubbing thoroughly. In a few days 
 the wood will look as though varnished. 
 
 Practical Experiments in Producing 
 New Colors upon Wood with known Col- 
 oring Matters. The coloring matters 
 used are, according to their nature, 
 either concentrated decoctions or solu- 
 tions. To produce the desired color the 
 stained wood is treated with the re- 
 spective chemical agent. The colors 
 obtained are beautiful, fast, and cheap. 
 
 Decoction of Logwood Extracts treated 
 with : 
 
 Gives : 
 Concentrated hydrochloric 
 
 acid reddish-yellow. 
 
 Diluted hydrochloric acid . reddish. 
 Concentrated and dilute 
 
 nitric acid red. 
 
 Concentrated sulphuric acid . black. 
 Dilute sulphuric acid . . . red. 
 Sulphide of hydrogen . . . yellow-hrown. 
 
 Ferric nitrate black. 
 
 Potassium chromate . . . black. 
 Stannous chloride .... violet. 
 
 Tartaric acid gray-brown. 
 
 Sulphate of copper .... dark gray. 
 
 Tannin yellow-red. 
 
 Sal-ammoniac yellow. 
 
 Verdigris dark brown. 
 
 Sugar of lead gray-brown. 
 
 Potash dark rod. 
 
 Potassium permanganate . . light brown. 
 
 Potassium iodide red-yellow. 
 
 Pyrogallic acid yellow-brown. 
 
 (reddish-vio- 
 
 Cupric chloride -< let to dark 
 
 (brown. 
 
 Chrome-yellow dark violet. 
 
 Sodium violet. 
 
 Sulphate of iron gray to black. 
 
 Alum (darkred- 
 
 \ brown . 
 
 Potassium carbonate . yellow-brown. 
 
 Magnesium sulphate . brown. 
 
 Cupric nitrate . . . violet. 
 
 Spirit of sal-ammoniac . dark violet. 
 
 Ammonium sulphydrate violet 
 
 Potassium sulphocyanide red. 
 
 Zinc chloride red-brown. 
 
 Decoction of Fustic Extract treated 
 with : 
 
 Gives : 
 Concentrated hydrochloric 
 
 acid red. 
 
YEASTS. 
 
 399 
 
 Diluted hydrochloric acid . 
 Concentrated nitric acid . 
 
 Diluted nitric acid . . . 
 Concentrated sulphuric acid 
 Diluted sulphuric acid . . 
 Spirit of sal-ammoniac . . 
 Ammonium sulphydrate . 
 Ferric nitrate 
 
 Tannin 
 
 Potash 
 
 Staunous chloride . . 
 Cupric chloride . . . 
 Tartaric acid .... 
 
 Alum 
 
 Pyrogallic acid . . . 
 Potassium permanganate 
 
 Cupric sulphate 
 Sugar of lead . 
 
 yellow-brown. 
 
 J" reddish- 
 
 t yellow, 
 brown, 
 dark purple, 
 brown-rod, 
 dark yellow, 
 dark yellow. 
 
 f dark gray 
 
 ( green, 
 yellow, 
 yellow, 
 yellow, 
 yellow, 
 yellow, 
 yellow, 
 yellow. 
 
 f brownish- 
 
 ( yellow, 
 orange, 
 yellow. 
 
 Decoction of Brazil-wood Extract 
 treated with : 
 
 Gives : 
 
 Concentrated nitric acid . . dark purple. 
 
 Diluted nitric acid .... pale red. 
 
 Concentrated sulphuric acid . red. 
 
 Diluted sulphuric acid . . purple. 
 Concentrated hydrochloric 
 
 acid dark red. 
 
 Diluted hydrochloric acid . light red. 
 
 Spirit of sal-ammoniac . . dark red. 
 
 Ammonium sulphydrate'. . dark red. 
 
 Sulphide of hydrogen . . . light red. 
 
 Sulphate of iron dark violet. 
 
 Tannin no change. 
 
 Stan nous chloride .... light red. 
 
 Cupric chloride dark red. 
 
 Sal-ammoniac reddish-yellow. 
 
 Sugar of lead yellowish-red. 
 
 Potash dark crimson. 
 
 Tartaric acid reddish-yellow. 
 
 Decoction of Madder treated with : 
 
 Diluted hydrochloric, sul- 
 pl i uric, and nitric acid . . 
 
 Sugar of lead 
 
 Sodium ' . 
 
 Tartaric acid 
 
 Tannin 
 
 Potash 
 
 Sal-ammoniac 
 
 Spirit of sal-amrnoniac . . 
 
 Alum 
 
 Stauuous chloride . 
 
 Gives : 
 
 pale yellow, 
 reddish violet, 
 red. 
 
 pale yellow. 
 pale yellow, 
 light red. 
 pale yellow, 
 reddish yellow, 
 faint red. 
 light red. 
 
 Decoction of Avignon Berries treated 
 
 with : 
 
 Gives : 
 
 Dilute hydrochloric acid . . rose color. 
 Dilute nitric acid .... no change. 
 Dilute sulphuric acid . . . yellow. 
 
 Potash yellow. 
 
 Stannous chloride .... dark yellow. 
 
 Tartaric acid discoloration. 
 
 Sugar of lead dark yellow. 
 
 Ammonium sulphydrate . . faint yellow. 
 Potassium bichromate . . . brown-yellow. 
 Ferric nitrate f dark olive- 
 
 \ green. 
 
 Potassium iodide yellow. 
 
 Cupric sulphate f greenish- 
 
 ( yellow. 
 
 Decoction of Turmeric treated with : 
 
 Gives : 
 
 Hydrochloric, nitric, or sul- 
 phuric acid yellow. 
 
 Sulphate of iron f greeuish- 
 
 ( yellow. 
 
 Ferric nitrate / yellow to 
 
 ( dark yellow. 
 
 Sugar of lead yellow. 
 
 Alum yellow. 
 
 Potash red yellow. 
 
 Stannous chloride .... yellow. 
 Sodium yellow. 
 
 Preparation of Fire-proof Wood. To 
 render wood incombustible the follow- 
 ing mixture is recommended : Soak 
 27.5 parts by weight of sulphate of zinc, 
 11 of potash, 22 of alum, and 11 of 
 manganic oxide in lukewarm water in 
 an iron boiler and gradually add 11 
 parts by weight of 60 per cent, sul- 
 phuric acid. The wood to be prepared 
 is placed upon an iron grating in an 
 apparatus of suitable size, care being 
 had to place the separate pieces at 
 least i inch apart. The liquid is then 
 poured in the apparatus ;\r\d the wood 
 allowed to remain completely covered 
 for 3 hours, and is then dried in the 
 air. 
 
 YEASTS. MANUFACTURE OF PRESSED 
 YEAST, BAKERS' AND BREWERS' 
 YEAST, ETC. 
 
 Schubert's Method of Manufacturing 
 Pressed Yeast. 1. Mashing in. Four 
 hundred and ninety-five pounds of 
 crushed rye and 165 pounds of kiln- 
 dried malt are doughed in the prepara- 
 tory mash-vat with 90 gallons of 
 water of 133i to 140 F. Continue 
 mashing until no more lumps can be 
 detected in the dough, and then add 1 
 pound of pressed yeast dissolved in 
 water. Allow the mash to stand for 20 
 to 30 minutes, but stirring it several 
 times. Then add 72\ gallons of water 
 of 200 F., and mix it as intimately 
 and quickly as possible with the mash, 
 which thereby acquires a temperature 
 
400 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 of about 144i F., which is the best for 
 saccharization. 
 
 2. Sacchari&ation and Cooling. After 
 finishing mashing in cover the mash- 
 vat, but stir the mash vigorously every 
 half an hour. Saccharization is com- 
 plete in 3 hours, and the mash is then 
 slowly cooled in the cooler to 104 F., 
 this promoting top fermentation later 
 on and increasing the yield of yeast. 
 
 3. Setting the Mash. When the mash 
 is cooled to the proper temperature, 104 
 F., it is drawn off into the fermenting 
 vat, and set in the following manner : 
 Add gradually 48i gallons of clarified 
 wash and 95 gallons of cold water to 
 reduce the temperature of the mash to 
 84 F. Then add to every 100 pounds 
 of crushed grain 8J ounces of sulphuric 
 acH, previously diluted with water, 
 and 6 pounds of pure pressed yeast 
 previously set with some mash. The 
 fermenting tun should be large enough 
 to allow of the mash rising without run- 
 ning over. The clarified wash is ob- 
 tained by mixing wash freshly drawn 
 off with a few bucketsful of cold water to 
 promote cooling and clarification. The 
 barrel in which this is done must be 
 provided with stop-cocks arranged at 
 suitable distances above each other. 
 The wash when clear is gradually 
 drawn off by opening the cocks in suc- 
 cession from above to below. 
 
 4. Scooping off the Yeast and Free- 
 ing it from Husks. Top fermentation 
 begins as soon as the mash is set, and 
 in course of 8 to 12 hours the yeast is 
 sutficiently matured to be ladled off. 
 The yeast is strained through a bag 
 filter, being thereby separated from 
 the husks which remain in the bag. 
 The latter is then thoroughly squeezed 
 out, and the husks poured back into 
 the fermenting vat. 
 
 Washing the Yeast. The yeast is 
 brought into the washing-back. This 
 should be higher than wide, and pro- 
 vided with 10 to 12 small discharge 
 cocks one above the other. The yeast 
 is stirred with cold water and then left 
 to settle, after which the water is drawn 
 olFthrough the cocks, fresh water poured 
 in, and this continued until the water 
 running off does not redden blue litmus 
 paper. Two and a quarter to 4i pounds 
 of potato starch are frequently added 
 to the wash-water. 
 
 Pressing the Yeast. The yeast, after 
 washing, is mixed with as much potato 
 starch as desired, and to free it from 
 water is placed in a double bag and 
 pressed with a gradually increasing 
 pressure. It is best to use screw 
 presses. 
 
 Moulding the Pressed Yeast. When 
 freed from water the yeast is thoroughly 
 kneaded and formed into pieces weigh- 
 ing 1 pound each. When dry they are 
 packed in paper, then wrapped in 
 linen, and preserved in a cool, airy 
 place. 
 
 Vienna Pressed Yeast. The yeast 
 manufactured in Vienna and Moravia 
 possesses excellent qualities. It does 
 not impart a bitter taste or odor to 
 bread or cakes, as is frequently the 
 case with other pressed yeast, the bitter 
 taste being no doubt caused by hops 
 mixed with the yeast. Vienna yeast 
 is manufactured from a mixture of 
 malt, rye, and corn. The grains are 
 crushed and mashed in the usual man- 
 ner, and the mash set with a ferment 
 and subjected to alcoholic fermenta- 
 tion for 72 hours. A light froth ap- 
 pears first on the surface and then 
 yeast, which is taken off' 3 or 4 times. 
 One hundred parts of grain yield 10 
 parts of yeast. 
 
 Zettler's Process of Manufacturing 
 Vienna Pressed Yeast. A mixture in 
 the proportion of 2 pounds of crushed 
 barley malt to 22 pounds of rye flour 
 is mashed in with 6 times its quantity 
 by weight of water at 140 to 144i F. 
 When all is thoroughly mixed by con- 
 tinued stirring the mash is allowed to 
 rest for 2 or 3 hours, during which 
 time saccharization is completed. To 
 promote the fermentation of the mash 
 some yeast is added, but this must not 
 be done before the temperature of the 
 mash has fallen to 72i or 8H F. 
 Alkaline carbonates and sulphuric acid 
 are sometimes used in place of yeast. 
 To every 100 pounds of flour are gen- 
 erally taken J ounce each of potash and 
 sulphuric acid, or 8| ounces of crystal- 
 lized sodium carbonate and 3-J ounces 
 of sulphuric acid. 
 
 As soon as the froth makes its ap- 
 pearance on the surface it must be re- 
 moved with ladles. This moment must 
 not be overlooked, as the froth falls 
 back later on and the yeast is then lost. 
 
YEASTS. 
 
 401 
 
 This froth is the yeast. It is freed from 
 husks by passing it through a hair 
 sieve into a settling vessel into which 
 cold water is poured, and the whole 
 allowed to stand quietly for 8 to 12 
 hours, during which the yeast settles 
 on the bottom. The yeast is washed 
 once more, then tied in linen hags, and 
 pressed with gradually increasing press- 
 ure. After pressing it is formed into 
 suitable cakes and stored in a cool place. 
 It will keep 3 to 4 weeks. 
 
 The following directions for prepar- 
 ing Pressed Yeast are by Prof. Otto. 
 Mash in a vat of 450 gallons capacity 
 6oO pounds of crushed malt consisting 
 of 2 parts of rye and 1 of barley. The 
 mash, after being thoroughly worked, 
 should have a temperature of 140 to 
 144i F. Cover the vat and let the 
 mash rest for li hours, and then cool 
 it to 100 F. by stirring. AVhen the 
 proper temperature has been obtained 
 pour 114 gallons of the mash into an 
 yeast-vat of 35.3 to 37 gallons capacity ; 
 then add 7J pounds of good pressed 
 yeast dissolved in 1J gallons of luke- 
 w;.rm water, 4 pint of beer yeast, and, 
 after stirring, 1J pounds of sulphuric 
 acid diluted with 1 to 1J gallons of 
 water. If the temperature of the mixt- 
 ure should be below 88 F. add suffi- 
 cient hot water to bring it up to that 
 temperature, or cool it by stirring if 
 above that degree. Then cover the 
 vessel and fermentation will begin in 
 about i hour. 
 
 The remainder of the mash is in the 
 meanwhile cooled off to 814 F. by 
 adding water, and is then brought into 
 the fermenting vat. Then, when the 
 yeast in the yeast- vat begins to ferment, 
 add it to the mash in the fermenting 
 vat, agitate thoroughly, and add 1J 
 pounds more of sulphuric acid diluted 
 with 1? gallons of water. Stir the 
 mash until it shows a temperature of 
 734 to 77 F. Cover the fermenting 
 vat in winter. Skimming off the yeast 
 may be commenced after 10 to 12 hours 
 and be continued 6 to 8 hours. Pour 
 the skimmings into bags of medium- 
 fine bolting-cloth, press the milky yeast 
 through, and pour the remainder back 
 into the fermenting vat. The filtered 
 yeast is transferred to a vat of about 300 
 gallons capacity filled half with water; 
 stir the mixture thoroughly and then 
 26 
 
 let it rest 6 to 8 hours. Then draw off 
 the supernatant fluid into the ferment- 
 ing vat, pour fresh cold water over the 
 yeast, add 4^ ounces of sulphuric acid, 
 and thoroughly agitate the mixture. 
 Let it settle 10 to 12 hours and then 
 draw off the supernatant fluid, which 
 may be used in cooling off the next 
 mash. The yeast is mixed with 284 to 
 33 pounds of potato starch, then brought 
 into double bags and carefully pressed. 
 Scrupulous cleanliness must be ob- 
 served throughout the whole opera- 
 tion. The mash and fermenting vats 
 must be frequently whitewashed, as also 
 the washing vat. The press bags must 
 be washed in hot water and then thor- 
 oughly dried. 
 
 Pressed Yeast from Potatoes. The 
 potatoes are boiled to a thin paste in 
 water mixed with sulphuric acid. For 
 220 pounds of potatoes, with an average 
 of 17.5 to 18 per cent, of starch, 8 gal- 
 lons of water and 2 ounces of sulphuric 
 acid are required. The potato-paste is 
 then brought into the preparatory 
 mash-vat, mixed with 40 to 50 pounds 
 of a mixture of malt and rye to every 
 220 pounds of potatoes, and converted 
 into pressed yeast-mash at a tempera- 
 ture of 1364 to 140 F. The washing 
 and elutriating of the yeast is done in 
 the usual manner, but only for 30 to 40 
 minutes, instead of 6 to 8 hours. 
 
 American Dry Yeast. Mix 34 ounces 
 of hops with 15 quarts of hot water and 
 3J pounds of rye flour. When the 
 mixture is cooled* off to lukewarm, add 
 4 pint of beer-yeast, and allow the mass 
 to ferment. The next day add 7| 
 pounds of corn or barley rneal, knead 
 the mass into a stiff dough, and form 
 this into a cake about 4 inch thick. 
 Divide this with a glass knife into small 
 pieces and dry them completely in a 
 warm room, or in the sun, turning them 
 frequently. This yeast can be kept in 
 well-closed pots for an indefinite time. 
 For use, break off the required quan- 
 tity, soak it in warm water, let it stand 
 for 12 hours in a warm place, and then 
 use it like ordinary yeast. 
 
 Artificial Yeast. Mix 2 parts by 
 weight of the fine flour of pale barley 
 malt with 1 part of wheat flour. Stir 
 55 pounds of this mixture gradually 
 into 33 gallons of water with a wooden 
 spatula until it forms a smooth paste. 
 
402 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Place this in a copper boiler over a 
 slow fire, stir it well until the tempera- 
 ture rises to 149 to 158 F., when a 
 partial formation of sugar will take 
 place, but this sweetening must not pro- 
 gress too far. Then turn out the thin 
 paste into a flat cooler and stir it from 
 time to time. As soon as the tempera- 
 ture of the paste has fallen to 59 F. 
 transfer it to a tub or vat, and add to 
 every 15 gallons of the paste 1 quart of 
 beer-yeast, which will throw the mass 
 into brisk fermentation in the course of 
 12 hours. This preparation is a good 
 yeast for bakers' and brewers' use, and 
 will continue fresh and active for 3 
 days. It should be occasionally stirred. 
 Cramer's Process of Preparing 
 Pressed Yeast from Beer-yeast. 1. 
 Press the raw beer-yeast in a bag of 
 fine silk bolting-cloth under water, 
 whereby even the finest constituents, 
 mechanically mixed with the yeast, 
 will remain in the bag. 2. As soon as 
 a sufficient quantity of yeast is purified 
 in this manner transfer it to the wash- 
 ing vat and add three times its quan- 
 tity of water. Then dissolve i to 
 ounce of carbonate of ammonium in 
 water to every quart of beer-yeast, and 
 mix the solution with the yeast in the 
 washing vat. The yeast soon separates 
 as a white sediment on the bottom of 
 the vat, while the hop-resin giving the 
 bitter taste to the yeast remains dis- 
 solved in the water, which is then 
 poured off. The white yeast remaining 
 behind is now free from all bitter sub- 
 stances, but is not vigorous enough for 
 the promotion of fermentation, and must 
 therefore be subjected to a regenerating 
 process. 3. Regeneration of the Yeast. 
 Mash in crushed air-dry barley malt 
 with cold water, heat the mash to 149 
 to 158 F., add 1 ounce of tartaric acid 
 to every 15 gallons of the mash, and let 
 it stand in a room the temperature of 
 which should not be below 72i F. for 
 24 hours, during which time the forma- 
 tion of sugar and acid takes place. 
 Then free the mash from the grains by 
 passing it through a fine hair-sieve, and 
 add a half gallon of it to every quart 
 of yeast to be regenerated. The tem- 
 perature of the mixture should be 77 
 F. The mass will soon be thrown into 
 vigorous fermentation, the revivified 
 yeast rising partly to the surface, from 
 
 which it is removed, and settling partly 
 on the bottom. Fermentation ceases in 
 about 36 to 48 hours ; the fluid is then 
 drawn off from the vat and the bottom, 
 yeast is mixed with the top yeast and 
 both placed under water, and then 
 pressed through double linen bags. 
 The pressed yeast thus obtained is 
 white, has no bitter taste, is very vig- 
 orous and durable. 
 
 Improvements in Treating Yeast. 
 Brewers frequently suffer serious losses 
 by the spoiling of the yeast in warm 
 weather. The cause of the spoiling 
 of the yeast must be sought, 1, in its 
 porosity, as it is generally in a half 
 liquid state, containing innumerable 
 bubbles of carbonic acid which escape 
 constantly, giving the oxygen of the air 
 free access to all parts of the yeast, and, 
 2, in the rapid development of acid in 
 the yeast, turning it sour and rendering 
 it unfit for brewers' use. 
 
 These evils may be overcome by the 
 following treatment : Add three times 
 the volume of the yeast of water of as 
 low a temperature as possible to the 
 vessels containing the yeast. Mix the 
 yeast and water by stirring thoroughly, 
 and then allow the yeast to settle for 
 24 hours. Then pour off the water, add 
 half the quantity of fresh water, stir 
 again, and add gradually milk of lime, 
 a solution of soda or other alkali, 
 until the fluid reacts only slightly acid. 
 Then add to every 100 pounds of yeast 
 about H ounces of salicylic acid. Allow 
 the yeast to settle, and do not remove 
 the supernatant fluid until the yeast is 
 to be used. After drawing off the fluid 
 add to every 100 pounds of yeast 10 
 pounds of a mixture of equal quantities 
 of malt flour or wheat flour and sugar, 
 and mix it thoroughly with the yeast. 
 The yeast quickly absorbs this com- 
 pound containing sugar and starch, 
 which is at once recognized by an 
 abundant development of carbonic acid. 
 To render the yeast very active 8 ounces 
 of a soluble phosphate may be added to 
 every 200 pounds of yeast. 
 
 Pressed Yeast from Beer-yeast. The 
 following process gives, according to 
 Pfauth, a pure and white yeast. Strain 
 the yeast through a very fine filter in 
 order to remove all larger resinous 
 particles, and then stir it up with three 
 times its quantity of cold water in a vat 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 403 
 
 of suitable size and provided with cocks 
 arranged at suitable distances one above 
 the other. Allow the mixture to stand 
 for 10 minutes for the yeast to settle, 
 draw off the supernatant fluid, and re- 
 peat the washing twice. To the first 
 wash-water add l| ounces of bicarbonate 
 of sodium to every 15 gallons of yeast, 
 to the second ounce of tartaric acid 
 to the same quantity of yea^t, and to 
 
 the third water 1 ounce of carbonate of 
 ammonium. After the last water has 
 been drawn off the yeast is pressed into 
 cakes. Some kinds of yeast settle 
 with difficulty. In such cases, ice- 
 cold water in larger quantities may be 
 employed, or in lieu of this a little 
 alum may be added to the first water, 
 which must, however, be completely 
 removed by washing. 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 ALLOYS. 
 
 Alloy of Copper, Platinum, and 
 Palladium. An excellent alloy of 
 these three metals is made by melting 
 for 3 hours 8 parts by weight of copper 
 and 1 part of platinum with a pinch 
 of borax. Then add 1 part of palla- 
 dium and retain the crucible over a 
 bright flame until the metals melt and 
 amalgamate. 
 
 Alloys Resembling Silver. In the 
 following we give the composition of 
 a few new alloys having the appear- 
 ance of silver: 
 
 Minargent: Copper 100, nickel 70, 
 tungstate of iron 5, aluminium 1. 
 
 Warne Metal: Tin 10, nickel 7, 
 bismuth 7, cobalt 3. 
 
 Trabak Metal: Tin 87.5, nickel 5.5, 
 antimony 5, bismuth 2. 
 
 Manganese Alloys. A good effect, 
 as is well known, is produced by the 
 use of manganese as an addition to 
 bronze, brass, German silver, red cop- 
 per, etc. All red copper and bronzes 
 fouud in commerce contain more or 
 less oxide, which injures their tenacity 
 and malleability. The removal of the 
 oxide is effected by substances having 
 a greater affinity for oxygen than cop- 
 per; for instance, by the addition of 
 phosphorus in the form of a tin or 
 copper phosphide, as in the prepa- 
 ration of phosphor-bronze. Manga- 
 nese, however, acts more energetically. 
 An alloy of copper and manganese 
 cupro-manganese composed of 70.50 
 parts of copper, 25 parts of manganese, 
 
 and part of charcoal, is well adapted 
 for the purpose. An addition of at the 
 utmost 2i per cent, is sufficient, and 
 the process is quite simple. 
 
 After melting the bronze masses the 
 metal bath is covered with pulverized 
 charcoal and the pieces of cupro-mau- 
 ganese, previously weighed and com- 
 minuted, a re allowed to slide slowly into 
 the cruci ble ; the melting together takes 
 place immediately. The crucible must, 
 however, be replaced upon the fire for 
 a few minutes to restore the tempera- 
 ture lowered by the addition of the 
 cold pieces of metal. Pouring out is 
 done in the usual manner. 
 
 To scorify the manganic oxide 
 formed during the process add to the 
 charcoal, with which the metal bath is 
 covered, about one-half the quantity 
 of pure sodium carbonate or potassium 
 carbonate. 
 
 The following alloys are prepared 
 according to this process : 
 
 
 
 
 R 
 
 MITS. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 j 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 
 & 
 
 e 
 S 
 
 3 
 
 si 
 
 a 
 
 3 
 
 1. . 
 
 Ifi 
 
 W< 
 
 s'M 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 9" 
 
 3' 3 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 3. Red brass . 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 85 
 
 
 or . . 
 
 17 
 
 ... 
 
 
 2 
 
 81 
 
 
 4. White brass 
 
 42 
 
 
 40 
 
 2 
 
 
 16 
 
 or . . 
 
 20 
 
 
 58 
 
 2 
 
 ... 
 
 20 
 
404 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 A composition of 70 per cent, of 
 copper and 30 per cent, of manganese 
 is used as an addition to a large num- 
 ber of alloys, especially for red brass, 
 white brass, and bronze. By this ad- 
 dition the alloys acquire greater den- 
 sity, solidity, and ductility. A copper 
 and tin alloy with 6 per cent, of man- 
 ganese possesses the hardness of steel. 
 
 We give in the following a few com- 
 positions which can be highly recom- 
 mended : 
 
 
 PARTS. 
 
 
 I 
 
 c 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 ntimony. 
 
 1 
 
 II 
 
 
 o 
 
 H 
 
 N 
 
 ^ 
 
 * 
 
 ^a 
 
 For brasses . 
 
 80 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 " rollers . 
 
 8 
 
 64 
 
 
 10 
 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 " malleable 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 brass . . 
 
 56^ 
 
 42 
 
 "- 
 
 
 
 IK 
 
 Manganese alloys can be polished, 
 and their color is from white to rose 
 color. 
 
 In refining copper, cupro-manganese 
 is used to reduce the cuprous oxide, 
 playing a part corresponding to that 
 of ferro-manganese in the manufacture 
 of steel. Manganese silver composed 
 of 80 per cent, of copper, 15 per cent, 
 of manganese, and 5 per cent, of zinc is 
 white, takes a good polish, and is 
 easily worked. 
 
 New Alloy for Silvering. This new 
 alloy consists of 80 parts of tin, 18 of 
 lead, and 2 of silver; or, 90 parts of 
 tin, 9 of lead, and 1 of silver. 
 
 Melt the tin, and when the bath is 
 lustrous white add the granulated 
 Jead and stir the mixture with a pine 
 stick ; then add the silver and stir 
 again. Increase the fire for a short 
 time until the surface of the bath 
 assumes a light yellow color, then stir 
 thoroughly and cast the alloy into 
 bars. The operation of silvering is 
 executed as follows : 
 
 The article for instance, a knife 
 blade is dipped in a solution of hydro- 
 chloric or sulphuric acid, rinsed in 
 clean water, dried, rubbed dry with a 
 piece of soft leather or dry sponge, and 
 
 then exposed in a muffle 5 minutes to 
 a temperature of 158 to 176 F. The 
 effect of this treatment is to render the 
 surface of the iron or steel porous. 
 With iron, not very good and coarsely 
 porous, the silvering process is diffi- 
 cult to execute. With steel, however, 
 the process is easy ; the article heated 
 to about 140 F. is dipped in the alloy, 
 melted in a crucible over a moderate 
 fire. The bath, which must be com- 
 pletely liquid, is stirred with a pine or 
 poplar stick. The surface of the bath 
 should show a fine silver white color. 
 One to 2 minutes dipping suffices for a 
 knife blade. When taken from the 
 bath, the article is dipped in cold 
 water, or, if necessary, hardened and 
 tempered in the usual manner. It is 
 then rubbed dry, and polished without 
 heating. 
 
 Articles thus treated have the ap- 
 pearance of silver, and also possess the 
 sound of silver, and resist oxidation in 
 the air. To protect them from the 
 action of acid liquids they are first 
 dipped in an amalgam bath of 69 
 parts of mercury, 39 parts of tin, and 1 
 of silver; then, while hot, in melted 
 silver, and electroplated with silver. 
 This method of silvering is claimed to 
 be very durable and not costly. 
 
 Aluminium Bronze. Several alloys 
 are known by this designation. By 
 far the most useful and valuable is 
 that composed of copper 90 per cent, and 
 aluminium 10 percent. It has a golden- 
 yellow color, is very dense, and ho- 
 mogeneous. It may be worked hot or 
 cold, though it is difficult to weld. 
 It possesses great tensile strength, 
 often as high as 100,000 pounds to the 
 square inch, and is remarkably ductile 
 and malleable. Its stiffness is 3 
 times that of gun bronze and 44 times 
 that of brass. It can be cast very well 
 and works well under the tool. It is 
 generally acknowledged to be of all 
 the bronzes decidedly the best. Re- 
 cent improvements in the metallurgi- 
 cal treatment of aluminium promise 
 to considerably lessen its cost, which, 
 up to the present time, has stood in 
 the way of its extensive use in the 
 arts, (w.) 
 
 Phosphor Bronze, which is largely 
 used as a substitute for bronze and gun- 
 metal compositions, for gearing, bear- 
 
ANTISEPTIC AND PRESERVATIVE AGENTS. 
 
 405 
 
 ings, wire rope, etc., etc., is an alloy of 
 copper and tin which has been fluxed by 
 the introduction of a variable quantity 
 of phosphorus, which is generally 
 added in the form of phosphide of 
 copper or phosphide of tin. This ad- 
 dition prevents the formation of oxide 
 by which the strength, ductility, and 
 homogeneity of the resulting alloy 
 would be impaired, and furnishes a 
 metal which in respect to these quali- 
 ties is notably superior to ordinary 
 bronze. Numerous grades of phosphor- 
 bronze are made according to the uses 
 for which it is intended. (W.) 
 
 Manganese Bronze. This alloy is 
 much used in England. It is formed 
 by fusion of copper, tin, and manga- 
 nese. Its color is usually white, and 
 when very rich in copper tinged rose 
 color. The addition of manganese to 
 copper-tin alloys imparts to them 
 greater strength, ductility, and homo- 
 geneity, resembling in this respect the 
 influence of phosphorus. Thurston 
 speaks very highly of this alloy as a 
 material of construction. It is re- 
 markably hard, tough, and elastic, as 
 compared with ordinary bronze, and 
 very durable when used for bearings 
 of machinery. An average compo- 
 sition would have the proportions : Cop- 
 per 88 per cent., tin 10 per cent, man- 
 ganese 2 per cent. (W.) 
 
 Density of Alloys. This is frequently 
 greater or less than the mean density 
 of their constituent metals. In the fol- 
 lowing is given a list of alloys exhibit- 
 ing such abnormal densities : 
 
 1. Alloys exhibiting greater Density 
 than the Mean of their Constituents : 
 
 Copper and zinc. 
 
 Copper and tin. 
 
 Copper and palladium. 
 
 Copper and bismuth. 
 
 Loud and antimony. 
 
 Platinum and molyb- 
 denum. 
 
 Palladium and bis- 
 muth. 
 
 Gold and zinc. 
 Gold and tin. 
 Gold and bismuth . 
 Gold and antimony. 
 Gold and colialt. 
 Silver and zinc. 
 Silver and bismuth. 
 Silver and tin 
 Silver and antimony. 
 
 2. Alloys exhibiting less Density 
 than the Mean of their Constituents : 
 
 Gold and silver. 
 Gold and iron. 
 Gold and copper. 
 Gold and lead. 
 Gold and iiidium. 
 Gold and nickel. 
 Silver and copper. 
 
 Iron and bismuth. 
 Iron and antimony. 
 Iron and lead. 
 Tin and lead. 
 Tin and palladium. 
 Nickel and arsenic. 
 Zinc and antimony. 
 
 (W.) 
 
 Fusibility of Alloys. In nearly all 
 cases the fusibility of alloys is lower 
 than the mean fusing point of their 
 constituent metals. In some cases, as 
 in that of the so-called fusible metals, 
 the point of fusion is lower than t'hat 
 of either of their constituents. (W.) 
 
 ^pence's Metal. This compound 
 has lately attracted considerable at- 
 tention. It is an English invention, 
 and is named after the inventor. 
 Strictly speaking it is not a metal, but 
 a compound obtained by dissolving 
 metallic sulphides in molten sulphur, 
 which is found to be capable of receiv- 
 ing into solution nearly all the sul- 
 phides of the metals. For most pur- 
 poses Mr. Spence employs in the pro- 
 duction of his "metal" the sulphides of 
 iron, lead, and zinc, in varying propor- 
 tions according to the quality of the 
 product desired, which will depend on 
 the uses for which it is designed. On 
 cooling the mixture solidifies, forming 
 a homogeneous,, tenacious mass, having 
 ordinarily a specific gravity of 3.37 to 
 3.7. It is said to be exceedingly useful 
 in the laboratory for making the air- 
 tight connections between glass tubes 
 by means of caoutchouc, and a water 
 or mercury jacket, where rigidity is no 
 disadvantage. The fusing point is so 
 low that it may be run into the outer 
 tube on to the caoutchouc, which it grips, 
 on cooling, like a vise, and makes it 
 perfectly tight. It melts at 320 F., 
 expands on cooling, is claimed to be 
 capable of resisting well the disin- 
 tegrating action of the atmosphere, is 
 attacked by but few acids, and by them 
 but slowly ; or by alkalies ; is insoluble 
 in water, and may receive a high 
 polish ; it makes clean, full castings, 
 taking very perfect impressions ; it is 
 cheap, and easily worked. It has been 
 used as a solder for gas-pipes, and as a 
 joint material in place of lead. (W.) 
 
 ANTISEPTIC AND PRESERVATIVE 
 
 AGENTS. 
 
 Boroglyceride. This compound, 
 which is patented in this country under 
 the name of " Barff 's Preserving Com- 
 pound," is obtained by heating 92 parts 
 of pure glycerine to 302 F. and gradu- 
 ally adding 62 parts of finely-pulver- 
 
406 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Receipts for Metal-workers proved in Practice : 
 a. Metal for Brasses. 
 
 
 Copper. 
 
 Zinc. 
 
 Tin. 
 
 For locomotive axles 
 
 86 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 82 
 
 g 
 
 10 
 
 " axles of railway carriages 
 
 82 
 
 18 
 
 
 
 84 
 
 16 
 
 
 
 
 75 
 
 2 
 
 
 " various kinds of axles 
 
 73 7 
 
 2 1 
 
 14 2 
 
 " " " (medium hard) .... 
 
 C9 55 
 
 5 88 
 
 21 77 
 
 " (hard) 
 
 82 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 88 8 
 
 11 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 6. Machinery Metal for Various Purposes. 
 
 
 Copper. 
 
 Zinc. 
 
 Tin. 
 
 Lead. 
 
 For cogwheels 
 
 91 3 
 
 8 7 
 
 
 
 " punches 
 
 83 3 
 
 16 7 
 
 
 
 " steam- whistles 
 
 80 
 
 2 
 
 17 
 
 
 
 81 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 
 " cocks 
 
 88 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 
 " wagon-wheel boxes 
 
 87 7 
 
 2 6 
 
 9 7 
 
 
 " stuffing-boxes 
 
 86 2 
 
 3 6 
 
 10 2 
 
 
 " mechanical instruments . 
 
 81 2 
 
 5 1 
 
 12 8 
 
 
 files 
 
 64 4 
 
 10 
 
 17 6 
 
 8 6 
 
 
 61 5 
 
 7 7 
 
 30 8 
 
 
 " weights 
 
 90 
 
 2 
 
 g 
 
 
 " castings (for gilding) 
 
 79 1 
 
 7 8 
 
 13 1 
 
 
 
 77 2 
 
 7 
 
 15 8 
 
 
 " piston rings 
 
 84 
 
 8 3 
 
 2 9 
 
 4 3 
 
 " buttons (white) . 
 
 57 9 
 
 36 8 
 
 5 3 
 
 
 
 63 88 
 
 30 55 
 
 5 55 
 
 
 " email cast articles 
 
 94 12 
 
 
 5 88 
 
 
 
 90 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ized boracic acid ; water vapor escapes 
 during the operation. The manipu- 
 lation of about 6 pounds requires an 
 entire day, as on account of the viscos- 
 ity of the melted mass it is difficult for 
 the water vapor to escape. The process 
 is completed when no more loss of 
 weight takes place, and the preparation 
 dissolves readily in water of ordinary 
 temperature. The escaping wateV 
 amounts to somewhat more than J of 
 the substances used. 
 
 Boroglyceride, when cold, is solid, 
 brittle, and transparent, of a light yel- 
 low color and lustrous fracture. 
 
 It is readily soluble in water, only 
 slightly soluble in cold alcohol and in 5 
 parts of alcohol at 122 F., and insol- 
 uble in ether and chloroform at or- 
 dinary temperature. A hot alcoholic 
 solution might be well adapted for im- 
 
 pregnating cotton for surgical purposes 
 with boroglyceride. It is an excellent 
 agent for preserving milk, fruits, meat, 
 anatomical preparations, etc. 
 
 Calcium, and Sodium Glyceroborates, 
 Two New Antiseptics. Both are 
 readily soluble, odorless, and non-poi- 
 sonous. Calcium glyceroborate is ob- 
 tained by heating together equal parts 
 by weight of calcium borate and glyc- 
 erine with constant agitation, until 
 a drop taken from the vessel and 
 placed upon a glass plate solidifies to a 
 clear colorless pearl. The compound 
 is then poured upon a metal plate 
 where it solidifies to a transparent, 
 glassy, and very brittle mass. The 
 pieces, still hot, are kept in a well- 
 stoppered bottle. Sodium glycerobo- 
 rate is obtained in the same manner by 
 heating together 100 parts of anhydrous 
 
ANTISEPTIC AND PRESERVATIVE AGENTS. 
 
 407 
 
 borax and 150 parts of glycerine. These 
 compounds possess analogous proper- 
 ties ; they melt at about 302 F. and 
 are very hygroscopic. They deliquesce 
 very rapidly when exposed to the air, 
 absorbing their own weight of water. 
 They dissolve in half their weight of 
 alcohol or water. Both are powerful 
 antiseptics even in a very diluted state. 
 They deserve preference to carbolic 
 acid" on account of being soluble in 
 water in all proportions and producing 
 no effect injurious to health. They 
 can be applied without inconvenience 
 even to such a sensitive organ as the 
 eye. Meat simply covered with a glaze 
 of glyceroborate was sent to La Plata 
 and arrived in a perfectly fresh con- 
 dition. From a therapeutical point of 
 view the sodium compound would 
 seem to be preferable, though they are 
 both pre-eminently adapted for preserv- 
 ing provisions, etc. In surgery they 
 may be used in place of phenol. 
 
 Effective Power of different Antisep- 
 tic 'Agents. To test the antiseptic 
 power of different agents Miguel has 
 made experiments and calculated the 
 smallest quantity required to prevent 
 putrefaction in "neutralized bouillon, 
 as follows ; 
 
 Mercuric iodide 0.025 per cent. 
 
 Corrosive sublimate . . . 0.070 " 
 
 Chromic acid 0.20 " 
 
 Chlorine 0.25 " 
 
 Iodine 0.25 " 
 
 Broine 0.60 
 
 lodofnrm 0.60 " 
 
 Chloroform 0.80 
 
 Sulphate of copper . . . 0.!K) " 
 
 Carbolic acid 3.0 " 
 
 Tannin 4.80 " 
 
 Arsenious acid 6.0 " 
 
 Boric acid 7.50 " 
 
 Chloral hydrate .... 9.30 " 
 
 Salicylic acid 10.0 " 
 
 Sulphate of iron .... 11.00 " 
 
 Amyl alcohol 14.00 " 
 
 Ether 22.00 " 
 
 Alcohol 95.00 
 
 Common salt 165.00 " 
 
 Glycerine 200.00 " 
 
 It will be seen from the above that 
 the mercury combinations possess the 
 greatest antiseptic power. 
 
 New Iron Fruit-drying 'Apparatus. 
 The fruit is placed upon the movable 
 hurdles h h h h, which are protected 
 from catching fire by layers of ashes 
 and the air-ilue L. Cold air is sucked 
 
 into the air-flue L, which is provided 
 with heating pipes, through the open- 
 ings r, and after being heated passes 
 through the opening * into the drying- 
 
 Fig. 56. 
 
 room a b, where it absorbs the moisture 
 escaping from the fruit, and passes 
 through the dampers k k into the 
 chimney. The dampers k k are opened 
 by shutting the door t, and closed on 
 opening it. 
 
 New Process of Greening Canned Veg- 
 etables. For Peas. Nine gallons of peas, 
 bleached in the ordinary manner, are 
 poured into a vessel containing 18 gal- 
 lons of boiling water. They are then 
 washed in cold water, dried, and put in 
 the cans, which are filled with the fol- 
 lowing liquor: Prepare a solution of 
 white sugar with common salt and 
 ordinary water and add 20 per cent, of 
 milk of lime. After stirring, add 1J 
 pints of the following solution : Ten to 
 25 ounces of soda-lye of 40 B., and 3 
 to 6 ounces of crystallized sodium 
 sulphide, dissolved in 1 pound of water. 
 The tin cans are filled as full as pos- 
 sible and subjected to boiling in an 
 ordinary digester for 10 to 15 minutes, 
 according to the size of the peas. 
 
 For Beans the cans are filled with 
 the following liquor : Clear lime-wa- 
 ter 22 gallons, common salt 2 to 6 
 pounds, and 1 or 2 drachms of sodium 
 sulphide. The cans are boiled 6 to 8 
 minutes at a temperature of 223 to 
 230 F. 
 
 It will be seen that the substances 
 used are entirely harmless, especially 
 in such small quantities. 
 
 Novelties in preserving Organic Sub- 
 
408 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 stances, and Apparatus used. The 
 glass or other vessels containing the 
 fruits, etc., to be preserved, are placed 
 upon the carriage m, which is pushed 
 upon the track i into the air and steam- 
 tight box a. A rail-bridge is connected 
 
 Fig. 57. 
 
 by means of a hinge joint with the 
 track, so that, after closing the box, it 
 can be turned up. The door is pressed 
 against the box a by the joint hinge d, 
 provided with a longitudinal slit, the 
 strap e, and the pressing screw g. In 
 
 Figs. 58, 59. 
 
 using the apparatus, water covering the 
 serpentine pipe k to a height regulated 
 by an overflow funnel is introduced 
 through the pipe o and its perforated 
 continuation. The steam, which is in- 
 troduced into the serpentine pipe k by 
 opening the valve I, heats the layer of 
 water, and the steam arising from it, 
 the glass vessels. Should the heat be- 
 come too great cold water is intro- 
 duced through the pipe o. A valve q 
 opening to the inside is placed along- 
 side the thermometer p. The steam 
 escapes through the valve s. 
 
 Preparation, free from Arsenic, for 
 Preserving Animal Skins. Boil until 
 reduced one-half, 125 parts of colocynths 
 and 25 of aloes in 1500 of water, and 
 strain while hot. Then stir 500 parts 
 of brown resin soap in 250 of soft soap 
 with some water to a paste over a mod- 
 erate fire, and mix it carefully with 
 the first decoction, and 125 parts of glyc- 
 erine and 40 of rape-seed oil over a 
 moderate fire. After thorough mixing 
 stir into the whole 50 parts of powdered 
 naphthaline rubbed up with 35 parts 
 of oil of turpentine and 80 of carbolic 
 acid, kept liquid by a sufficient addition 
 of alcohol. The mass should be homo- 
 geneous ; if too thick, thin with oil of 
 turpentine. 
 
 Preservative Packing-paper to protect 
 Cloth, Furs, etc., from Moths. Paper 
 manufactured from woollen rags and 
 manilla threads or paper is saturated 
 with a mixture of 70 parts by measure 
 of oil obtained as residue in the distilla- 
 tion with energetic steam of coal tar 
 naphtha, 5 parts of crude carbolic acid 
 containing at least 50 per cent, of 
 phenol, 20 parts of thin coal tar heated 
 to about 160 F., and 5 parts of refined 
 petroleum. After saturation the paper 
 is passed through pressing machines 
 and over hot rolls to dry it, and when 
 sufficiently cooled is cut into leaves of 
 suitable size and completely dried in 
 the open air. 
 
 ARTIFICIAL EYES, MANUFACTURE OF. 
 
 A wax model of the cornea, fitting 
 accurately into the orbital cavity of the 
 person who is to wear the artificial 
 eye, is placed in plaster of Paris paste. 
 When hardened the wax model is taken 
 out, the pupil removed from it, and 
 after coating with caoutchouc solution 
 replaced in its cavity in the plaster of 
 Paris mould. The concave bottom of 
 the mould is then entirely covered with 
 caoutchouc and vulcanized. 
 
 The eye thus prepared is placed in 
 alcohol and exposed to the sun, where- 
 by the color of the artificial cornea 
 becomes like that of the natural one. 
 The pupil consists of glass or enamel, 
 the cornea of 2 parts each of oxide of 
 zinc and caoutchouc, and 1 part of 
 sulphur. The red caoutchouc used for 
 
ASBESTOS AND ITS USES. BLEACHING. 
 
 409 
 
 imitating the blood veins of the cornea 
 consists of a mixture of 2 parts each of 
 caoutchouc and cinnabar and 1 part 
 of sulphur. 
 
 ASBESTOS AND ITS USES. 
 
 Asbestos Industry in England. Ital- 
 ian asbestos is principally used. Im- 
 mense deposits are also found in other 
 countries, especially in Canada, but 
 the fibre of the Canadian variety is 
 short and has not the snowy whiteness 
 of the Italian. 
 
 For manufacturing purposes the 
 asbestos is separated into two kinds, 
 the first to be used for making paper 
 and the second for textile fabrics. For 
 the manufacture of asbestos paper large 
 quantities of water are required, and 
 for this reason the large establishments 
 at Harefield, the most important place 
 of the English asbestos industry, are 
 located close to the canal. 
 
 The separation of the asbestos is 
 effected in the following manner : The 
 fibres are disaggregated with a machine 
 consisting of two rollers with three- 
 cornered teeth. The rollers have a re- 
 volving and backward and forward 
 motion, so that disaggregation is effected 
 without destroying the parallelism of 
 the fibres. 
 
 Three machines differing only in 
 size are used for the operation. The dis- 
 aggregated asbestos is placed in vats 
 provided with stirring apparatus and 
 boiled with constant agitation and 
 occasional lifting out and replacing. 
 After boiling the water is partially re- 
 moved by mechanical means, and the 
 asbestos dried in chambers heated by 
 steam. The long fibres are then sepa- 
 rated from the short ones by a special 
 machine. The short fibres are con- 
 verted into pulp and made in the 
 usual manner into paper and paste- 
 board. Leaves of asbestos paper are 
 generally 40 inches square and s? to i 
 inch thick. Asbestos board, which is 
 principally used for fire-proof lining 
 and for steam-joints, is also used for 
 other purposes as it does not cause a 
 chemical alteration of metal. 
 
 The manufacture of asbestos tissue is 
 much more difficult than that of paper, 
 as the fibre neither crimps nor felts. 
 
 The fibre is first carded upon ma- 
 chines similar to carding engines used 
 in the wool industry. Upon the last 
 carding engine, technically known as 
 " condenser," the mass of fibres is 
 divided into separate strands. Each 
 of these strands passes between two hoses 
 moving in the same direction, which 
 form the strand into a single thread, 
 not by torsion, as in the textile indus- 
 try, but by rolling it together somewhat 
 like putty is rolled between the fingers. 
 
 The other operations, doubling the 
 threads and weaving, are comparatively 
 simple. In doubling a number of 
 threads are joined and twisted together 
 like a rope. The thread thus obtained 
 serves as the chain in making the 
 fabric. The weaving is done upon 
 ordinary looms. 
 
 Asbestos cloth is chiefly used for 
 filtering in chemical works, for theatre 
 curtains, aprons and trousers for stokers, 
 clothing and gloves for firemen, lining 
 for fire-proof safes, etc. In the United 
 States there is quite an extensive in- 
 dustry in asbestos products, much 
 of which are produced from native 
 material. Asbestos fibre twisted into 
 rope is largely used for steam-pack- 
 ing ; asbestos millboard is used largely 
 for gaskets, pipe and boiler covering, 
 fire-proof linings, etc.; asbestos pulp for 
 the last-named purposes and ground 
 asbestos for paint body. (W.) 
 
 BLEACHING. 
 
 Bleaching of Fabrics and Yarns 
 without Chlorine. The article to be 
 bleached is soaked in an iron or wooden 
 vat, or, if great purity is demanded, 
 boiled with an addition of 3J pounds of 
 caustic soda to 100 pounds of material 
 for 12 hours. After this operation the 
 material is placed in a warm concen- 
 trated bath of permanganate of potas- 
 sium for 15 to 30 minutes, and after 
 cooling brought into a bath of borax 
 and sulphurous acid for 15 to 30 min- 
 utes. The materials thus prepared are 
 then treated with a preparation formed 
 by the action of gaseous sulphurous 
 acid upon crystallized borax. To pre- 
 
 rre this borax-bath dissolve 2 pounds 
 ounces of borax in 22 gallons 
 of cold water previously saturated 
 
410 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 with gaseous sulphurous acid. The 
 bleaching effect produced by this com- 
 bination must be explained by the 
 simultaneous action of the borax and 
 sulphurous acid, since, when used one 
 after the other, the result is quite dif- 
 ferent. After washing and drying the 
 materials thus treated are brilliantly 
 white. 
 
 Bleaching Yarns and Fabrics. Linen 
 yarns and fabrics are boiled for 3 hours 
 in a solution containing 37 grains of 
 potassium cyanide in If pints of water, 
 then washed, and treated again in the 
 same manner. For cotton this opera- 
 tion maybe omitted unless the material 
 has been brought in contact with fatty 
 or oily substances, in which case the 
 above solution is used in a more dilute 
 form (about half the strength). The 
 fabric thus prepared is placed in closed 
 vessels and treated with a solution of 
 8U grains of chloride of lime in If 
 pints of water. As soon as the vessel is 
 full the solution is drawn off and car- 
 bonic anhydride passed in. This oper- 
 ation is repeated until the fabric as- 
 sumes the desired degree of whiteness. 
 It is then taken out, washed in water, 
 and pressed. In most cases a slight 
 yellow tinge is retained within the 
 fabric, owing to the presence of traces 
 of iron in the bleaching agent. To re- 
 move this coloration the fabric is drawn 
 through a bath of oxalic acid (about 
 70 grains per gallon), washed with 
 water, pressed and toned with indigo or 
 aniline violet. 
 
 Novelties in Bleaching. Before 
 bleaching wool with hydrogen per- 
 oxide it must be washed thoroughly 
 clean. An immersion of 30 to 40 min- 
 utes in a bath of commercial hydrogen 
 peroxide diluted with 10 parts of water 
 suffices to bleach the wool. With a 
 dilution of 15 parts of water about 1 
 hour is required. A capacious vat 
 should be used to allow of the wool 
 being easily moved, as this accelerates 
 the bleaching process. 
 
 As long as the wool, after being taken 
 from the bleaching bath, is moist and 
 exposed to the air, the bleaching pro- 
 cess goes on, and it is therefore advis- 
 able not to hasten drying. The best 
 results are obtained by drying in the 
 sun ; if this cannot be done a moderate 
 temperature should be kept in the 
 
 drying-room. In working with diluted 
 bleaching water, the small quantity of 
 indigo required for the production of a 
 pure white can be directly added to the 
 bleaching bath. By using a concen- 
 trated bath the toning must, however, 
 be done in a separate bath. For very 
 yellow wool add a few drops of dis- 
 solved methyl violet to the bath, which 
 prevent the white from acquiring a 
 greenish tint. 
 
 BOOKBINDING, GILDING, AND ORNA- 
 MENTING. 
 
 Folding. The sheets are folded in 
 leaves, according to the form of the 
 book, viz. : Two leaves for folios, four 
 for quartos, eight for octavos, twelve 
 for duodecimos, etc., and are marked 
 with what printers call signatures to 
 guide the folder. The folding-sticks 
 are made of wood, bone, or ivory, and 
 the folding generally done by women. 
 
 Rolling. After being folded the 
 sheets are made smooth and compact 
 either by being beaten with a hammer 
 weighing 12 to 14 pounds, or passed 
 through a rolling-press consisting of 
 two smooth horizontal rollers placed a 
 small distance apart. 
 
 Sewing. The sheets forming one 
 volume are fixed in a cutting-press and 
 saw-cuts made across the back edge to 
 receive the bands or cords to which the 
 sheets are to be sewed, and which aid 
 in fastening the covers. After this 
 preparation they are placed in a sewing- 
 press, consisting of two vertical wooden 
 screws fastened on a table or board and 
 joined at their top by a horizontal bar 
 from which cords are stretched verti- 
 cally to the table or board, and held 
 tight by nuts on the cross-bar. The 
 sheets are laid singly on top of each 
 other, the saw-grooves fitting to the 
 cords, and each sheet is sewed fast by 
 passing the needle in and out through 
 the sheet and around the cords. 
 
 Rounding. The back of the book is 
 now glued, and the ends of the bands 
 are opened and scraped with a knife 
 that they may be more conveniently 
 fixed to the pasteboard covers. By a 
 dextrous application of a hammer and 
 the fingers the back, while still moist 
 with glue, is made round or convex, 
 
BOOKBINDING, GILDING, AND ORNAMENTING. 
 
 411 
 
 and the front edge hollow or concave, 
 the book being fixed in a press between 
 boards called backing-boards, in order 
 to make a groove for receiving the 
 covers. 
 
 Edge-cutting or trimming is next 
 done in a cutting-press with a very 
 sharp blade working vertically. The 
 concave edge is temporarily made flat 
 by the press during the cutting, but it 
 springs back to its proper concavity 
 afterwards. 
 
 Binding. The covers of books are 
 mostly made of what is technically 
 called " binders 1 board" cut to the 
 proper sizes and shapes from large j 
 sheets. Holes are pierced through the 
 boards corresponding to the cords in 
 the back of the sheets, which are passed 
 through and fastened. 
 
 Covering. The covering is done by 
 pasting leather, muslin, or other mate- 
 rial on the board, and requires consid- 
 erable skill. The hollow back of a 
 book is produced by the interposition 
 of paper or cloth between the edge and 
 the leather in a way that enables the 
 book to be opened without crinkling 
 the back. 
 
 Tooling and Lettering. Numer- 
 ous tools are employed in a heated 
 state and pressed heavily against the 
 covers. If no gold is used the tool 
 makes a dark, glossy impression, which 
 is called "blind tooling," but in gold 
 tooling leaf-gold is applied before the 
 tools are used. The cover is first 
 washed with clear gum water. The 
 parts to be gilded are then coated twice 
 with white of egg beaten into a froth, 
 and then allowed to subside into a clear 
 liquid. To gild, spread a leaf of gold 
 on the gilding-cushion with a knife, 
 and blow it flat, then cut it into strips 
 about i inch wide. Heat the tool until 
 it is just hot enough to fizz under the 
 wet finger ; if it sputters it is too hot 
 and will burn the leather; touch its 
 edge with a rag slightly moistened with 
 sweet oil, and with the same rag rub 
 over the part of the book to be gilt. 
 Roll the tool softly on the strips of gold, 
 which will adhere to it, and when 
 enough is taken up roll it with a 
 heavier pressure along the places to be 
 gilt, and the gold will be transferred to 
 the leather, the excess being wiped 
 away with a soft rag. 
 
 Edge Gilding. The top, bottom, and 
 front edges are scraped smooth with a 
 ! piece of steel, and are then coated with 
 ' a composition of red chalk and water ; 
 this is wetted with white of egg and 
 water; the leaf-gold is laid on, and 
 soon afterwards is brilliantly polished 
 ! by rubbing with a burnisher of agate or 
 blood-stone. 
 
 For Plain Edges. Screw the book 
 tight into the press between boards and 
 rub the edges vigorously with an agate 
 or a dog's tooth. 
 
 Marbling is done by sprinkling the 
 colors on the edges of the leaves \vith a 
 brush made of hogs' bristles, the brush 
 being held in the one hand and the 
 bristles moved with the other. 
 
 Another plan is to tightly stretch 
 either plain or figured mull in a 
 wooden frame and place the edge of the 
 book upon it, to quickly draw the 
 brush over the mull or sprinkle the 
 color in the above manner, whereby 
 the places protected by the threads of 
 the mull remain white. 
 
 Reichardfs Rosin Compound for 
 Gilding Paper, Leather, etc. Pulverize 
 and mix 4 to 5 parts of copal and 1 of 
 mastic, and apply the powder with a 
 fine camel's-hair brush to the place to 
 be gilt. 
 
 Reber's Process of Gilding Leather. 
 Prepare parchment glue and white of 
 egg of the best quality. 
 
 Parchment Glue. Dissolve 1 part by 
 weight of hogskin parchment shavings 
 (but not those of sheepskin parchment), 
 and boil the solution to half its vol- 
 ume. 
 
 White of Egg. In place of diluting 
 the white of egg with water, as most 
 bookbinders do, add 3 drops of spirit of 
 sal-ammoniac to each white of egg be- 
 fore beating it to a froth. 
 
 The manner of gilding the different 
 kinds of leather is as follows : 
 
 Marbled and Dark Leather of one 
 Color. Rub the place to be gilded with 
 good nut oil, and burnish it with a 
 | dog's tooth, and then coat it with very 
 thinly-fluid flour paste ; wash off the 
 : whole with urine and let it dry. Then 
 j coat the parts to be gilded with parch- 
 ment glue, and, after drying, twice with 
 white of egg. When dried so far as not 
 ! to be injured on being touched with the 
 I hand, press the places with the warm 
 
412 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 tool, and finally, before applying the 
 gold, coat them with nut oil. 
 
 Calfskin. The best way to avoid 
 stains is to dampen the leather with a 
 wet sponge. When dry coat it with 
 parchment glue, and then twice or 
 three times with white of egg, and, 
 when this is dry, gild as given above. 
 
 DM Gilding on Calfskin. After 
 washing and drying the cover, coat the 
 places to be gilded once with gum- 
 water, once with milk, once with parch- 
 ment glue, and twice or three times 
 with white of egg. Allow the ground 
 to dry thoroughly, and then lay on 
 the gold without oil. 
 
 To Gild Velvet. Velvet to be gilded 
 must be lined with paper, as otherwise 
 the gold will not adhere. The design 
 is then pressed in with hot tools, and 
 gamboge pulverized as fine as possible 
 dusted quite thick over the places. 
 Roll the tool softly on the gold, and 
 when enough is taken up apply it with 
 such a uniform pressure that when the 
 tool is lifted up no gold remains on it. 
 The tool should be just warm enough 
 to allow of the hand being quickly 
 passed over it without burning. 
 
 A very convenient method of apply- 
 ing the gamboge powder is to dust it 
 through the silk bottom of a paste- 
 board cylinder. The velvet must be 
 scrupulously clean, since the smallest 
 impurity prevents adhesion of the gold. 
 
 Gilding on /Silk is done in the 
 same manner as on velvet, only still 
 more care, with less pressure, is re- 
 quired. 
 
 Bookbinders' Lacquer. The follow? ng 
 well-tested receipts are recommended : 
 Pulverize and dissolve 3 ounces of 
 shellac, 1 ounces each of sandarac, 
 mastic, and benzoin in li pints of ab- 
 solute alcohol, then add l| ounces of 
 Venetian turpentine, and filter the 
 solution. 
 
 II. Pulverize 1 ounce each of san- 
 darac, mastic, and white elemi, and 
 dissolve the powder with the assistance 
 of a moderate heat in i ounce of Vene- 
 tian turpentine, and combine this by 
 shaking with a solution of 4 ounces 
 of bleached shellac in 1 ounce of strong 
 spirit of wine and 3.V ounces of oil of 
 lavender. After standing for a few 
 days the solution is filtered. 
 
 Improvement in the Manufacture of 
 
 Book Covers. Book covers are now 
 made in endless strips by using a com- 
 position of oils solidified by mixture 
 with fibrous substances and coloring 
 matter and pressed through embossed 
 rollers, which produces a resemblance 
 of morocco, but with sharper outlines 
 and capable of being washed. The 
 mixture principally used consists of 
 100 parts of oxidized oil,* 10 of rosin, 
 10 of Kawrie copal (New Zealand 
 rosin), 20 of white lead, 10 of color- 
 ing matter, 20 of sawdust, and 10 of 
 paraffine wax. These substances 
 are intimately mixed in a horizontal 
 cylinder heated by steam. The cylinder 
 is provided with a shaft with inclined 
 wings by which the contents are carried 
 forward and pressed out through an 
 aperture in a similar manner as the 
 clay in a kneading machine. When 
 the mixture is ready it is spread upon 
 a basis of textile fabrics, but principally 
 consisting of paper combined with a 
 fabric. A suitable agglutiiiant consists 
 of: 12 parts of oxidized oil, 1 of Kawrie 
 copal (J\'ew Zealand rosin), 1 of rosin, 
 24 of ochre, and 2 of turpentine. The 
 plate produced by the machine is after- 
 wards divided in suitable pieces and 
 the covers, if necessary, can be stiffened 
 with paper board pasted to the back. 
 
 BRONZING, GILDING, SILVERING, ETC. 
 
 Apparatus for Coating Tools. Metallic 
 tools and other articles, particularly 
 those consisting of iron and steel which 
 are used in laboratories or other work- 
 shops where acid vapors are of frequent 
 occurrence, can be protected from rust 
 with a black shining coat which resists 
 acids and is but little affected even by 
 a low red heat, as follows : Have a 
 sheet-iron box constructed large enough 
 to hold all the tools, etc., to be coated, 
 and provided with a false bottom 
 of wire netting. Underneath this is 
 placed a layer of crushed blacksmiths' 
 coal about | inch deep ; then place the 
 
 * Oxidized oil is prepared by applying a 
 drying oil to a tissue and exposing it to the 
 action of the air, and when dry spreading on 
 repeated routines until the enamel thus formed 
 is about % inch thick. The solid oil i,s then 
 ground together with the tissue upon which it 
 has been formed. 
 
BRONZING, GILDING, SILVERING, ETC. 
 
 413 
 
 tools, which must be entirely free from 
 rust, clean and polished, upon the wire 
 net. The box is then covered and set 
 on a strong tire, which causes the coal 
 to give off tarry constituents, and the 
 heat is continued until the bottom of 
 the box is at a red heat. When all 
 evolution of gas has ceased, the box is 
 allowed to become cold and the tools 
 are taken out and will be found covered 
 with a beautiful glossy coat. Tongs, 
 shears, pincers, etc., so coated, keep in 
 good condition for many months even 
 in places where the air is constantly 
 mixed with acid vapors. 
 
 Bronzing Copper. Dissolve 30 parts 
 of carbonate or hydrochlorate of am- 
 monium and 10 parts each of common 
 salt, cream of tartar, and acetate of 
 copper in 100 parts of acetic acid of 
 moderate concentration, or in 200 parts 
 of strong vinegar and add a little water. 
 When an intimate mixture has been 
 obtained, smear the copper object with 
 it, and let it dry at the ordinary tempera- 
 ture for 24 or 48 hours. At the end of 
 that time the object will be found to be 
 entirely covered with verdigris present- 
 ing various tints. Then brush the 
 whole, and especially the reliefs, with a 
 waxed brush, and if necessary set off 
 the high reliefs with hematite or 
 chrome-yellow or other suitable colors. 
 Light touches with ammonia give a 
 blue color to the green portions, and 
 carbonate of ammonium deepens the 
 color of the parts on which it is laid. 
 
 Cold Black Stain for Brass. Dissolve 
 with constant stirring 1 ounce of car- 
 bonate of copper in 9 ounces of spirits 
 of sal-ammoniac and then add 1 pound 
 2 ounces of water. The stain is then 
 ready for use. Suspend the articles to 
 be stained by copper or brass wires 
 and allow them to remain for a short 
 time. 
 
 Galvanizing and Nickelling of Iron 
 in Cleveland, Ohio. The sheets of iron 
 are immersed in a bath of hot dilute 
 sulphuric acid to remove oxide, and 
 then washed with water ; the plates are 
 then immersed in commercial hydro- 
 chloric acid, after which they are dried 
 in a hot oven. The zinc is melted in a 
 large iron pan along the middle of 
 which an iron screen is fixed, so that it 
 just dips into the bath and extends 
 about 3 inches above the rim ; the surface 
 
 of the zinc is thus divided longitudin- 
 ally into two compartments; ammoni- 
 um chloride is strewn on the surface of 
 one and in the other sand. The iron 
 plates, hot from the oven, are dipped 
 one at a time perpendicularly into the 
 melting zinc on the ammonium chloride 
 side, and are passed under the iron 
 screen into the other side, whence they 
 are drawn out by tongs and pulleys. 
 Drops of zinc are removed from the 
 lower edge by touching with an iron 
 rod. When they are completely re- 
 moved from the bath, the sand is wiped 
 off and the plate is finished. The 
 nickelling is conducted in wooden tanks 
 lined with asphalt; the solution used 
 consists of | pound of nickel-ammonium 
 sulphate dissolved in 1 gallon of water. 
 The object to be nickelled, after it has 
 been made perfectly clean by washing 
 respectively with potash and dilute 
 hydrochloric or sulphuric acid and 
 scouring with pumice stone, is sus- 
 pended in the bath by means of copper 
 slinging wires from a copper or brass 
 bar which is connected with the nega- 
 tive conductor of a dynamo-electric 
 machine, while from another copper 
 bar a nickel plate is suspended in the 
 bath, care being taken that the nickel 
 plate does not touch the object. After 
 15 to 30 minutes under the influence of 
 the current, the object becomes suffi- 
 ciently nickelled and is withdrawn, 
 washed first with cold and then with 
 warm water, and subsequently well 
 dried. Care must be taken to regulate the 
 current, as if it is too strong the de- 
 posited nickel will be dull, while if too 
 feeble the deposit will be granular. 
 The polisher is a disk of wood covered 
 on the surface with a piece of leather, 
 which has been immersed in thin lime- 
 water, rolled in emery powder and 
 dried. 
 
 Gilding of Steel. Dissolve pure gold 
 in nitro-inuriatic acid, and evaporate 
 the solution to dryness to expel the 
 excess of acid. Dissolve the residue in 
 pure water and add 3 times the quan- 
 tity of sulphuric ether. Then shake 
 the mixture in a well -stoppered bottle 
 until, when standing quietly, the ether 
 appears of a golden-yellow color, and 
 the water beneath it is entirely clear. 
 Polished articles of steel plunged into 
 the solution are instantly beautifully 
 
414 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK/ 
 
 gilded. By protecting portions of the 
 surface of the articles with lacquer or 
 varnish, beautiful designs can be pro- 
 duced. If the gilding should not turn 
 out well at first, dilute the liquid with 
 ether. Care should be had not to exe- 
 cute the work near a light or fire. 
 
 Gold and Orange /Stain for Brass. 
 Dip the articles in a mixture of 3 
 drachms of caustic soda, 2 ounces of 
 water, and 5 drachms of moist carbon- 
 ate of copper. The shades of color 
 appear in a few minutes, and the prog- 
 ress can be readily judged and ob- 
 served. After obtaining the desired 
 shade of color, rinse the articles in 
 water and dry in fine sawdust. 
 
 Green Bronzing. The repeated ap- 
 plications to copper or brass of alternate 
 washes of dilute acetic acid and exposure 
 to the fumes of ammonia will give a 
 very antique-looking green bronze ; but 
 a quick method of producing a similar 
 appearance is often desirable. To this 
 end the articles may be immersed in a 
 solution of 1 part of perchloride of iron 
 in 2 parts of water. The shade becomes 
 darker with the length of immersion. 
 Or the articles may be boiled in a strong 
 solution of nitrate of copper. Or they 
 may be immersed in a solution of 2 
 ounces of nitrate of iron and 2 ounces 
 of hyposulphite of sodium in 1 pint of 
 water. Washing, drying, and burnish- 
 ing complete the process. 
 
 Liquid Cement for Coating Articles. 
 A liquid cement for giving a cheap and 
 durable metal-coating to papier-mache, 
 plaster of Paris, clay, slate, metal, etc., 
 is prepared by two combined processes 
 which supplement one another. The 
 first consists of the folio wing ingredients, 
 which are mixed in substantially the 
 following proportions: No. 1: 60 parts 
 of powdered rosin, 15 of alcohol, spirit 
 of wine, or pyroxylic spirit, 10 of tur- 
 pentine, 10 of petroleum spirit, and 5 
 of soda water-glass. The liquid thus 
 prepared is then spread upon the 
 object to be treated in the manner of 
 applying sizing, and can be used for 
 papier-mache, plaster of Paris, clay, 
 slate, cement, metals, etc., and renders 
 them more firm^^nd water-proof. 
 When it is desired to give a metallic 
 finish in imitation of metal to the 
 object treated with the above composi- 
 tion, apply to its surface, before the 
 
 composition has hardened, the powder 
 of any desired metal, such as silver, cop- 
 per, etc., by means of a fine camel's-hair 
 brush, after which the article is dried 
 in warm air or in the sun. In order 
 that not only the metal dust may ad- 
 here but that also the metallic color 
 may be retained and not oxidize on ex- 
 posure to the air, the second composi- 
 tion or varnish is laid quite lightly on 
 the metallized surface after the lapse 
 of a few days. To prepare composition 
 No. 2, dissolve 1 part of bichromate of 
 potassium in 5 of water, and mix then 
 80 parts of distilled water, 15 of Russian 
 glue, 5 of the above solution, or 5 of 
 chrome-alum and water (1:5). After 
 the article thus treated has been dried 
 for some days in warm air or in the 
 sun it will be found that this layer or 
 metallic surface has become so' hard 
 and firm that it will not be injured by 
 exposure to the heat of the sun, or to 
 frost or moisture, being in fact weather- 
 proof. 
 
 Porous and water-absorbing materials 
 are rendered impervious by coating 
 with the liquid cement No. 1. 
 
 New Process for Producing a Bronze- 
 colored Surface on Iron,. The cleansed 
 objects are exposed to the vapors of a 
 heated mixture of equal parts of con- 
 centrated hydrochloric and nitric acid 
 for a few minutes, and heated to a tem- 
 perature of from 572 to 662 F., the 
 heating being continued until the 
 bronze color appears. The objects are 
 then cooled, rubbed with vaseline, and 
 heated, until the latter begins to de- 
 compose, the operation being repeated 
 once more. A bronze-colored oxide 
 coating is obtained by using acetic acid 
 in conjunction with the above-men- 
 tioned acids. By varying the propor- 
 tions of the different acids it is possible 
 to obtain light and dark brown shades. 
 Iron bars coated in this manner and 
 exposed for a year to the atmosphere 
 of a laboratory remained unchanged 
 and without the slightest sign of corro- 
 sion. 
 
 Painting on Zinc. The process is 
 made easier by employing a mordant 
 composed of 1 part each of chloride 
 of copper, nitrate of copper, and sal- 
 ammoniac dissolved in 64 parts of 
 water, and to this mixture is added 1 
 part of commercial hydrochloric acid. 
 
BUILDING MATERIALS. 
 
 415 
 
 This is brushed over the plate of zinc, 
 and after 12 or 24 hours it dries a dullish 
 gray color. Painting upon this surface 
 the colors will adhere in a perfect man- 
 ner. Another method is as follows: 
 Into some muriatic acid of full strength 
 drop some pieces of zinc until effer- 
 vescence ceases. Add an equal quan- 
 tity of water, and with a sponge tied to 
 a stick wash over every part of the sur- 
 face to be painted. This ronghens the 
 surface and takes off that sort of greasi- 
 ness which prevents paint from adher- 
 ing. After the acid has remained a 
 short time wash it over with water or 
 dilated vinegar, dry off, and paint. 
 
 To Cleanse Brass. Dip the articles 
 in a mixture of 1 part of nitric acid and 
 i part of sulphuric acid, then rinse in 
 water, and finally rub with sawdust. 
 If greasy, dip the brass first in a 
 boiling hot solution of potash-lye. 
 
 To Color Soft Solder Yellow. When 
 brass is soldered with soft solder the 
 difference in color is so marked as to 
 direct attention to the spot mended. 
 This can be obviated by the following 
 method : First prepare a saturated so- 
 lution of sulphate of copper in water, 
 and apply some of this on the end of a 
 stick to the solder. On touching with 
 a steel or iron wire it becomes coppered, 
 and by repeating the experiment the 
 deposit of copper may be made thicker 
 and darker. To give the solder a yel- 
 lower color mix 1 part of a saturated 
 solution of sulphate of zinc with two 
 of sulphate of copper, apply this to the 
 coppered spot, and rub with a zinc 
 rod, which produces a precipitation of 
 brass. The color can be still further 
 improved by applying gilt powder and 
 polishing. 
 
 BUILDING MATERIALS. 
 
 Fire-resisting Properties of Building 
 Materials. Of the natural building 
 stones the highest rank as fire-resist- 
 ing materials must be accorded to the 
 sandstones; and of these the fine- 
 grained, hard, silicious varieties (that 
 is, those having a silicious cementing 
 material) are the best. Such sandstones 
 are found to be capable of resisting the 
 radiant or direct heat of the most intense 
 fire, before which limestone crumbles 
 
 and granite or gneiss crack and split 
 into fragments. Of the artificial mate- 
 rials, brick and cement and iron com- 
 prise all that are commonly employed. 
 Of these, the first two are first-class fire- 
 resisting materials. The first named 
 is undoubtedly the very best fire- 
 proof material for a wall that can be 
 used. Cast-iron, which at one time was 
 largely used for the fronts of large 
 structures, has proved to be utterly un- 
 reliable as a fire-resisting material, and 
 is rapidly going out of use for this 
 purpose, as it should. Even vrrought- 
 iron girders, used as floor supports, are 
 elements of danger and weakness in 
 case of fire, unless they are surrounded 
 with a cement or similar filling. (W.) 
 
 Cork Ktone. A product possessing 
 many of the properties of natural cork 
 but less specific gravity is prepared as 
 follows: 6.3 parts by weight of pulver- 
 ized cork-wood are mixed with boiling- 
 hot paste prepared from 3 parts by 
 weight of starch and 25 parts of boiling 
 water. The plastic mass thus obtained 
 is pressed at once into suitable moulds, 
 and the objects produced are dried at a 
 temperature of 212 F. The drying 
 process is very slow. To make the 
 articles more capable of resisting moist- 
 iire add small quantities of linseed oil 
 or tar to the mass. 
 
 Cork stone thus prepared being very 
 light and a poor conductor of heat is 
 especially adapted as a building mate- 
 rial for the insulation of roofs, for ice 
 cellars, and drying-rooms. 
 
 Enamelled Bricks. The composition 
 of the enamel varies between 1 part of 
 plumbic oxide and 1 of sand, and 2 
 parts of plumbic oxide and 1 of sand. 
 For green enamel least plumbic oxide is 
 used, and for colorless enamel generally 
 4 parts of plumbic oxide and 3 of sand. 
 Some manufacturers add heavy spar, 
 so that the enamel will only fuse at a 
 high temperature. For coloring light 
 brown to black, pyrolusite is used, and 
 for green, copper scales. The constitu- 
 tion of the body of the brick is of great 
 importance for the durability of the 
 enamel. The harder it is burnt and the 
 more the clay of which it is composed 
 is inclined to slagging in consequence 
 of a fine division of the lime contained 
 in it the more intimate the union be- 
 tween the enamel and the body of the 
 
416 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMTCAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 brick will be, and the fewer cracks the 
 enamel will show. Solid particles of 
 lime near the surface of the body of 
 the brick are especially injurious, as 
 on coming later on in contact with 
 water they are apt to crack the 
 enamel. 
 
 Mass for Roofing, Fire-proof Ceil- 
 ings, Floors, etc. Two masses are 
 used, an under-layer and top-layer. 
 For the under-layer stir to a paste : 
 Slaked lime, blood, burnt alum, cement, 
 sand, brickdust or pumice stone, coal- 
 ashes, sawdust, broken glass or porce- 
 lain, and water-glass. 
 
 For the top-layer mix linseed oil, 
 asphaltum, chalk, litharge, broken 
 glass, burnt alum, blood, cement, plas- 
 ter of Paris or chalk, and pumice 
 stone. 
 
 For roofing, insulating layers, fire- 
 proof ceilings, etc., apply both masses 
 in a cold and liquid state upon a base. 
 They soon harden. 
 
 For roofing, plates of the under-layer 
 with a wire net enclosed are also used. 
 The plates are coated with the top-layer 
 and a solution of water-glass, and fast- 
 ened to the rafters by means of cramps 
 through the loops of the wire net. 
 
 Plaster for Ceilings. H. Kahl's 
 patented plaster consists of: Sawdust 
 35 per cent., sand 35 per cent., plaster 
 of Paris 10 per cent., glue 10 per cent., 
 and whiting 10 per cent. 
 
 Terrti-cotta Lumber. Mix, according 
 to the degree of porosity desired, 1 to 3 
 parts of resinous wood with 1 part of 
 elutriated kaolin, and add sufficient 
 water to form a plastic mass of spongy 
 consistency, which is exposed in metal 
 cylinders to a strong pressure by steel 
 stamps. The result of the operation 
 are cylindrical blocks 8 to 12 inches in 
 diameter and 4 to 6 feet long. The 
 blocks are dried in the air, then in a 
 drying oven, and finally heated in a 
 furnace to a white heat. The blocks, 
 after cooling, are very strong, and can 
 be sawed, cut, and planed. Their den- 
 sity corresponds to about half of that 
 of ordinary bricks. A special ad- 
 vantage of the mass is that it is fire- 
 proof. It is patented in this country, 
 and is successfully used for building 
 and other purposes. 
 
 Utilization of Sawdust. Two patents 
 have been recently issued in this coun- 
 
 try for the use of sawdust in place of 
 sand for plastering. According to the 
 one, equal parts of plaster of Paris and 
 sawdust are used, while the other pre- 
 scribes the following mixture : 4i parts 
 of slaked lime mixed with sawdust, 1 
 part of plaster of Paris, i part of glue, 
 and TS part of glycerine. The plaster 
 thus prepared is claimed to be much 
 lighter and to adhere more firmly. 
 
 CELLULOID : IMITATIONS, SUBSTI- 
 TUTES, ETC. 
 
 Artificial Ivory. Mix 8 parts of 
 shellac with 32 parts of ammonia of 
 0.995 specific gravity, and shake the 
 solution in revolving cylinders for 
 about 5 hours at a temperature of 99.5 
 F. The result of the operation will be 
 a complete solution of the consistency 
 of thin syrup. Add to this 40 parts of 
 zinc oxide, mix thoroughly with the 
 hand, and then grind the mixture in a 
 color-mill. The ammonia is then ex- 
 pelled by heating. The residue is 
 completely dried upon glass plates, 
 ground fine in a mill, and pressed into 
 moulds with a pressure of as much as a 
 ton to the square inch, and an increase 
 of temperature to from 500 to 540 F. 
 The product, when taken from the 
 mould, is of a pure white color and 
 closely resembles ivory. 
 
 Celluloid Printing Plates. Cellu- 
 loid, though comparatively a recent 
 product, is being continually applied 
 to new uses in the arts. Very good re- 
 sults have lately been obtained with 
 celluloid stereotypes, both from wood 
 engravings and from tvpe, which may 
 be used on the printing-press. The 
 process consists in taking a copy of the 
 engraving on wood or of the type with 
 the use of a special cement, which 
 hardens rapidly and takes the finest 
 lines sharply. After about 20 minutes 
 this cement is hard and resistant. The 
 form in which the first impression is 
 taken should be slightly heated ; arid a 
 sheet of celluloid is employed to obtain 
 a counter impression from this, which 
 is then prepared by ordinary methods 
 for the printing-press. A celluloid 
 plate has been subjected to 25,000 im- 
 pression^, apparently without losing 
 any of its sharpness. 
 
CELLULOID IMITATIONS, SUBSTITUTES, ETC. 
 
 417 
 
 When used as a Substitute for wood 
 in the production of large printing- 
 type, it is found to be much preferable 
 to wood. It has a fine surface, pos- 
 sesses great durability, cau be readily 
 worked, is light, and can stand all the 
 rough usage of th/e press. [Celluloid has 
 lately been successfully used for im- 
 itating enamel for signs, monograms, 
 etc., to be attached to glass. (W.)] 
 
 Elastic Mass Resembling Leather. 
 The pulverulent residue obtained in 
 refining cotton-seed oil is intimately 
 mixed in varying proportions with suit- 
 able non-volatile solvents, such as fats, 
 oils, paraffine wax, resins, etc., and 
 with pulverulent substances, such as 
 graphite, cinnabar, soot, etc., and sul- 
 phur powder or carbon di-sulphide is 
 added to the mixture. By heating the 
 mass at 17 to 302 F. until the pow- 
 der unites with the solvents to a homo- 
 geneous mass, a more or less hard, 
 plastic substance is obtained. 
 
 Flexible Insulating Mass. One part 
 by weight of mineral wax (paraffine, 
 ozocerite), 20 of wood tar, 32 of shellac, 
 and 32 of dry and finely-pulverized 
 asbestos, flax, cotton, wood, or paper, 
 are mixed in a boiler at 100 to 200 
 F., and constantly stirred. For a 
 harder mass use less tar. For an espe- 
 cially hard mass omit the mineral wax, 
 decrease the quantity of asbestos, and 
 add about 24 parts of ground slate or 
 clay, free from iron. 
 
 Insulating Material for Electrical 
 Conductors. Mix 66 parts by weight 
 of finely-powdered glass or quartz and 
 34 parts by weight of pulverized vege- 
 table or mineral resin, and add 26 parts 
 by weight of paraffine, beeswax or sper- 
 maceti, and 3 parts by weight of boiled 
 or raw linseed oil. The proportions 
 differ according to circumstances. If 
 the mass is to be exposed to the sun 
 only a small quantity of wax is to be 
 used, while, for underground lipes, the 
 quantity of wrx must be increased. 
 
 Mass for Plastic Models. The fol- 
 lowing preparation possesses many ad- 
 vantages over most now in use : Mix 
 200 parts of soapstone powder and 100 
 parts of the best wheat flour, and stir 
 the mixture carefully into 300 parts of 
 melted white wax, not too hot. The 
 homogeneous mass can be colored at 
 pleasure. 
 27 
 
 New Imitation of Ivory. This new 
 material possesses all the hardness and 
 brilliancy of celluloid, and has the ad- 
 vantage of being fire-proof. It is pre- 
 pared as follows: Dissolve 200 parts 
 of casein in 50 of ammonia and 400 of 
 water, or 140 parts of albumen in 400 
 of water, and add to either solution 240 
 parts of quicklime, 150 of acetate of 
 aluminium, 50 of alum, 1200 of sul- 
 phate of calcium, and 100 of oil, the oil 
 to be mixed in last. For dark objects 
 substitute 75 to 100 parts "of tannin for 
 the acetate of aluminium. The mixt- 
 ure is well kneaded, and made into a 
 smooth paste and passed through rollers 
 to form plates of the desired thickness. 
 These are either dried and pressed into 
 metallic moulds previously heated or 
 they may be reduced to a very fine 
 powder, which is introduced into the 
 mould and submitted to a strong press- 
 ure. The objects are afterwards 
 dipped into a bath consisting of 100 
 parts of water, 6 of white glue, and 10 
 of phosphoric acid. They are then 
 dried, polished, and varnished with 
 shellac. 
 
 New Substitute for Caoutchouc. 
 Skins of hares, rabbits, and other small 
 animals, or waste of such skins, are 
 cleansed in water, depilated in lime- 
 water, or bv some other suitable 
 method, and boiled with 5 per cent, of 
 crude glycerine and as little water as 
 possible, until entirely dissolved. The 
 thickly-fluid, viscous mass obtained is 
 either dried upon nets in an airy room 
 or at once further manipulated. Three 
 parts by weight of the mass and an 
 equal quantity of crude glycerine are 
 melted in a water or steam -bath, and i 
 part by weight of a concentrated solu- 
 tion of potassium bichromate is added. 
 The liquid mass is poured into moulds 
 and allowed to solidify under pressure. 
 When cold the articles are taken from 
 the moulds and dried in a dark, airy 
 room. The evaporation of the excess 
 of water takes place more quickly in a 
 dark room than in a light one, as in the 
 latter the surface of the articles be- 
 comes too quickly insoluble under the 
 influence of light, which impedes the 
 evaporation of the water in the interior. 
 This mass bears a close resemblance to 
 vulcanized caoutchouc, and has the ad- 
 vantage of standing heat much better. 
 
418 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 To prepare a mass resembling hard 
 rubber add less glycerine and a little 
 moreehromate and dry between heated, 
 polished metal plates under pressure. 
 A very hard product is obtained by 
 immersing the articles in a bath of 
 chrome-alum solution. This substitute 
 for hard rubber can be sawed, ground, 
 and polished. To make it resist acids 
 add to the mass 30 per cent, of gum-lac 
 dissolved in alcohol. By the addition 
 of suitable coloring matters, imitations 
 of coral, malachite, etc., are obtained. 
 If the mass is to be used for articles 
 which, with great elasticity, have to 
 resist strong pressure, such as railroad 
 buffers, wheel tires, etc., only 1 part of 
 crude glycerine is used and part 
 of comminuted cork mixed with the 
 mass. 
 
 For the preparation of a mass for 
 water-proofing fabrics, etc., add % part by 
 weight of ox-gall to the mass and com- 
 pound with sufficient soft water to give 
 it the consistency of thickly-fluid oil ; 
 about \ part of the potassium bichro- 
 mate is used. The thickly-fluid mass 
 thus obtained is brought into a double- 
 walled cylinder, heated by steam and 
 provided with a roller under which 
 the fabric to be impregnated is con- 
 ducted. 
 
 Substitute for Gutta-percha. The 
 following mass, which is patented in 
 Germany, is claimed to be a good 
 substitute for gutta-percha for many 
 purposes. The process of manufacture 
 is as follows : A mixture of 50 parts by 
 weight of powdered gum copal, 7 to 15 
 of sulphur, and 15 to 30 of oil of tur- 
 pentine, is heated to from 228 to 300 
 F. and thoroughly stirred. After being 
 allowed to cool to 100 F., an emulsion 
 prepared from 3 parts by weight of 
 casein and weak ammonia with an 
 addition of some alcohol and wood 
 spirit is added, and the whole heated 
 once more to 300 F. until it has ac- 
 
 ?uired the consistency of thin syrup, 
 t is then boiled for a few hours with 
 an ammoniacal solution of 15 to 25 per 
 cent, of tannin. The product is cooled, 
 washed in cold water, rolled out, and 
 finally dried. 
 
 Superior Modelling Wax. Melt care- 
 fully over a moderate coal fire 2 pounds 
 of yellow beeswax, add 4 ounces of 
 Venetian turpentine, 2 ounces of lard, 
 
 and If pounds of elutriated bole, and 
 mix thoroughly. Then gradually pour 
 the mixture into a vessel with water 
 and thoroughly knead several times 
 with the hands. The wax should be 
 melted at such a low temperature that 
 no bubbles appear upon the melted 
 surface. 
 
 Vegetable Leather. This new prod- 
 uct, which, it is claimed, possesses all 
 the properties of genuine leather, is 
 water-proof and a non-conductor of 
 electricity, is prepared by mixing 6J 
 pounds of gutta-percha, 2 pounds of 
 sulphur, 2 pounds of raw cotton, 1 
 pound 5 ounces of zinc white, 3i ounces 
 of colcothar, and 8| ounces of antimony 
 oxide, and vulcanizing the mass by 
 means of steam similar to caoutchouc. 
 Gutta-percha and sulphur are abso- 
 lutely required, while chemicals of 
 similar nature may be substituted for 
 the other constituents. The proportions 
 of the separate components may also be 
 varied, according to the purpose the 
 product is to serve. The composition is 
 recommended for soles and heels. 
 
 CEMENT WORK. 
 
 Weatherproof Cement Work. Soak 
 the article for 24 hours in a solution of 
 1 part of ferrous sulphate in 3 of water 
 and dry in the air. The ferric oxide 
 produced is chemically combined in the 
 cement and makes it denser, harder, 
 heavier, and weather-proof, filling up 
 most of the pores, and giving it an ochre 
 color. Ornamental cement work is 
 brushed over with the solution four 
 times and allowed to dry. The cement 
 work can be rendered extremely resist- 
 ing by warming and then coating with 
 a hot mixture of equal parts of paraffine 
 and paraffine oil. This treatment is rec- 
 ommended as being especially service- 
 able for ornamental cement work which 
 is exposed to the weather. By treating 
 twice with a 5 per cent, soap solution, 
 drying and polishing, the surface is made 
 receptive for oil-painting. Chalk ob- 
 jects and room walls treated in this man- 
 ner will stand any amount of washing. 
 Light ochre color can be obtained by 
 adding alum to the ferrous sulphate; 
 and various shades of green by paint- 
 ing with chrome-alum. 
 
CLEANSING, POLISHING, AND RENOVATING AGENTS. 419 
 
 CLEANSING, POLISHING, AND RENO- 
 VATING AGENTS. 
 
 Cleaning-powder for Show-windows. 
 A good cleaning-powder, which leaves 
 no dirt in the joints, etc., is prepared 
 by moistening calcined magnesia with 
 pure benzine so that a mass is formed 
 sufficiently moist to let a drop appear 
 when pressed. The mixture should be 
 preserved in glass bottles with ground 
 stoppers, in order to retain the easily 
 Volatile benzine. A little of the mixt- 
 ure is placed on a wad of cotton and 
 applied to the glass plate. It may also 
 be used for cleaning mirrors. 
 
 Cleansing-rags for Polishing Metal. 
 Dip flannel rags into a solution of 20 
 parts of dextrine and 30 parts of oxalic 
 acid in 20 parts of logwood decoction, 
 wring them gently, and sift over them 
 a mixture of finely-pulverized tripoli 
 and pumice stone. The moist rags are 
 piled upon each other, placing a layer 
 of the powder between each two. They 
 are then pressed, taken apart, and 
 dried. 
 
 Cleansing Wash-leather. Wash the 
 spiled polishing leather in a weak solu- 
 tion of soda and warm water, .then rub 
 a good deal of soap into the leather and 
 let it soften for 2 hours. It is after- 
 wards thoroughly washed until per- 
 fectly clean, and rinsed in a weak solu- 
 tion of warm water, soda, and yellow 
 soap. It must not be washed in water 
 alone or it will become so hard when 
 dry that it cannot be used again. It is 
 the small quantity of soap remaining in 
 the leather which penetrates its smallest 
 particles and makes the leather as soft 
 as silk. After the rinsing, it is wrung 
 out in a coarse towel and dried quickly. 
 It is then pulled in every direction and 
 well brushed, after which it is softer 
 and better than most wash leather when 
 first bought. If rough leather is used 
 to finish highly polished surfaces, it 
 will be often observed that the surface 
 is scratched or injured. This is caused 
 by particles of dust, and even grains of 
 hard rouge that were left in the leather. 
 As soon as they are removed with a 
 clean brush and rouge, a perfectly 
 bright and beautiful finish can be ob- 
 tained. 
 
 Cloth-cleaning Compound. Take 
 ounce each of glycerine, alcohol, and 
 
 sulphuric ether, 2 ounces of aqua am- 
 monia, i ounce of powdered Castile 
 soap and add sufficient water to make 
 1 quart of the mixture. Use with 
 brush or sponge, and rinse with pure 
 water. 
 
 Furniture Renovater. Mix thor- 
 oughly, olive oil 1 pound, refined oil 
 of amber 1 pound, and tincture of henna 
 1 ounce. Keep the mixture in a well- 
 stoppered glass bottle. For renovating 
 the polish of furniture apply the mixt- 
 ure with a tuft of raw cotton and rub 
 dry with a cotton rag. 
 
 Liquid Polish for /Silver-plated Ware. 
 Dissolve 3 to 4 drachms of cyanide of 
 potassium and 8 to 10 grains of nitrate 
 of silver in 4 ounces of water. Apply 
 with a soft tooth-brush, wash the object 
 thoroughly with water, dry with a soft 
 linen cloth, and polish with a chamois 
 skin. Neither whiting nor powder of 
 any kind should be used for cleaning 
 and polishing; they only wear out or 
 scratch the silver. In the case of solid 
 silver some precipitated chalk is allow- 
 able in the solution. 
 
 For preserving the lustre of silver or 
 plated ware, when not needed for actual 
 use for a considerable time, a coating 
 of collodion may be employed to great 
 advantage. The articles are heated 
 and the collodion is carefully applied 
 by means of a brush, so as to cover 
 the surface thoroughly and uniformly. 
 It is used most conveniently when 
 diluted with alcohol, as for photo- 
 graphic purposes. 
 
 New Polish for Wood. Dissolve 6 
 pounds of shellac in about 4 fo 5 gal- 
 lons of pure alcohol. Then pour 3i 
 ounces of high-grade sulphuric ether 
 over 3i ounces of collodion cotton in a 
 bottle, add If ounces of camphor, stir 
 thoroughly and add 96 per cent, alco- 
 hol enough to completely dissolve the 
 cotton. 
 
 Then pour both solutions together 
 and shake well. The polish is then 
 rubbed in with an oil prepared as fol- 
 lows : Prepare a saturated solution of 
 camphor in good oil of rosemary and 
 add If ounces of this to 2 pounds 3 
 ounces of pure linseed-oil. For finish- 
 ing, dissolve benzole in alcohol and 
 dilute at pleasure, taking care to 
 apply the solution as weak as practi- 
 cable. 
 
420 
 
 TECHNO-CHEM1CAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Polishing Soaps and Pastes have been 
 Recently introduced, and as they are 
 preferred by many to the ordinary 
 polishing powders for cleansing gold, 
 silver, brass, etc*, we give in the fol- 
 lowing several receipts for good polish- 
 ing soaps and one for polishing paste. 
 
 A polishing soap especially suitable 
 for silver and brass is prepared as fol- 
 lows: Set in the ordinary manner 50 
 pounds of cocoanut oil with 75 to 80 
 of 23 soda, and boil the mixture to a 
 clear jelly. When the soap is ready 
 and sufficiently solidified add 10 
 pounds of tripoli, 5 pounds of alum, 5 
 pounds of cream of tartar, and 5 pounds 
 of white lead, all previously fi-nely pul- 
 verized and intimately mixed. Pour 
 the mixture into small, shallow tin 
 moulds, and it will quickly solidify. 
 For .cleansing, moisten the articles 
 with lukewarm water with a brush, 
 and apply the soap with a rag. 
 
 Another polishing soap is made as 
 follows: Wash commercial colcothar 
 in water 6 to 8 times and then dry it. 
 Next prepare a soap solution by dissolv- 
 ing at a moderate heat 6 pounds of 
 cocoa soap, cut in pieces, in soft water. 
 Mix intimately i pound of the prepared 
 colcothar rubbed up with a little water 
 and 5i ounces of purified ammonium 
 carbonate, finely pulverized, and add 
 the cold soap solution, with constant 
 stirring. Keep the polishing soap thus 
 prepared in stone jars closed with oiled 
 paper. 
 
 Another polishing soap is prepared 
 by dissolving 14 ounces of Marseilles 
 soap in i gallon of water, and adding 
 to the solution 7 ounces of finely-pul- 
 verized chalk. The mixture is colored 
 red with fuchsine and kept in stone 
 jars. By applying this soap with 
 leather or a woollen rag the dirtiest 
 articles can be cleansed in a short time. 
 
 For preparing polishing paste or 
 pomade ''melt 7 ounces of beef marrow 
 and add 3 ounces of fine colcothar. 
 Perfume the mixture with oil of 
 almonds and pour it into small tin 
 boxes. Lard may be used instead of 
 beef marrow. Apply the paste with a 
 soft rag, rub thoroughly, and finish 
 with a dry rag. 
 
 Restoring Plush. It is customary to 
 use ammonia for the purpose of neutral- 
 izing acids that have accidentally de- 
 
 stroyed the colors of fabrics. This 
 must be applied immediately, or the 
 color is usually imperfectly restored. 
 An application of chloroform, used 
 with caution, will, however, bring out 
 the colors as bright as ever. Plush 
 goods and all articles dyed with aniline 
 colors, faded from exposure to light, 
 will look as bright as ever after spong- 
 ing with chloroform. 
 
 To Clean Glass and Silverware. 
 Egg shells crushed into small pieces 
 and shaken well in decanters three 
 parts filled with cold water will not 
 only clean them thoroughly but make 
 the glass look like new. By rubbing 
 with a flannel dipped in the best whit- 
 ing the brown discoloration may be 
 taken off cups in which custards have 
 been baked. Emery powder will re- 
 move ordinary stains from white ivory- 
 handle knives, and the lustre of mo- 
 rocco leather is restored by varnishing 
 with white of egg. To clean silver 
 nothing is better than alcohol or am- 
 monia, finishing with a little whiting 
 on a soft cloth. 
 
 To Clean Marble. After brushing 
 the dust off with a piece of chamois 
 rub the marble with the following so- 
 lution : One-quarter pound of soft-soap, 
 
 1 pound of whiting, and 1 ounce of 
 soda, and a piece of stone-blue the size 
 of a walnut. Rub it over the marble 
 with a piece of flannel and leave it for 
 24 hours, then wash it off with clean 
 water, and polish the marble with a 
 piece of flannel or an old piece of felt. 
 
 Another method is as follows : Take 
 
 2 parts of common soda, 1 part of 
 pumice stone, and 1 part of finely pow- 
 dered chalk, sift it through a fine sieve, 
 and mix it to a paste with water. Rub 
 it well over the marble, and then wash 
 with soap and water. 
 
 To take stains out of white marble 
 mix 1 ounce of ox gall, 1 gill of lye, 
 and 1-i table-spoonfuls of turpentine, 
 and make it into a paste with pipe-clay. 
 Put the paste over the stain and let it 
 remain for several days. To remove 
 oil stains apply common clay saturated 
 with benzine. If the grease has re- 
 mained in long the polish will be in- 
 jured ; but the stain will be removed. 
 Iron mould or ink spots are taken out . 
 in the following manner : Dissolve i 
 ounce of butter of antimony and 1 
 
COLORS, WATER-PROOFING SUBSTANCES, ETC. 
 
 421 
 
 ounce of oxalic acid in 1 pint of rain 
 water, and add enough flour to bring 
 the mixture to a proper consistency. 
 Lay it evenly on the stained part with 
 a brush, and, after it has remained for 
 a few days, wash it oft', and repeat the 
 process, if the stain be not wholly 
 removed. 
 
 To Cleanse Silvered Dial Plates. 
 Silvered dial plates of clocks frequently 
 lose their lustre by the effect of air and 
 smoke or sulphurous emanations. To 
 cleanse them make pulverized purified 
 tartar into a paste with water. Take 
 some of the paste on a brush of bristles 
 and rub the dial plate with it, turning 
 it constantly, until the silvering has 
 acquired its original whiteness and 
 lustre. Then wash the dial plate with 
 clean water and dry by gentle patting 
 with cloth, and finally expose it for 
 a few minutes to a moderate heat. 
 
 To Clean Smoky Walls. Brush them 
 with a broom, then wash them over 
 with strong pearlash water, and im- 
 mediately rinse them with clean water 
 before the pearlash is dry. When dry, 
 give the walls a thin coat of fresh 
 slaked lime containing a liberal portion 
 of alum dissolved in hot water. Finish 
 with whiting and good size. Be care- 
 ful not to apply the size distemper till 
 the lime wash is dry, as the latter will 
 destroy the strength of the size if the 
 two come in contact while wet. 
 
 COLORS, ENAMELS, CEMENTS, GLUE, 
 VARNISHES, WATER - PROOFING 
 SUBSTANCES, ETC. 
 
 American Wood- filler. Mix 1 part 
 by weight each of pulverized starch 
 and heavy spar and i part by weight 
 of siccative with sufficient turpentine 
 to the consistency of ordinary varnish. 
 For dark woods add up to 4 part by 
 weight of umber to the siccative. 
 
 Apply the filler with a medium stiff 
 brush. When the coat, at first lus- 
 trous, becomes dull, remove everything 
 from the surface by rubbing across the 
 grain of the wood with a piece of felt or 
 strong leather fastened to a piece of 
 wood. Allow the prepared wood to 
 dry 8 hours, then rub thoroughly with 
 
 S'ass paper, and it is ready for polish - 
 g or varnishing. 
 
 I Cement for Mending Enamelled Dial 
 
 | Plates. Scrape some pure white wax, 
 mix it with equal parts of zinc white, 
 melt the mixture over a spirit lump, 
 and let it cool. For use, warm the dial 
 plate slightly and press the cold cement 
 into the defective places. The cement 
 adheres very firmly and by scraping 
 with a sharp knife acquires a white ami 
 lustrous surface. In case the cement 
 should be too hard add some wax, and 
 if too soft some zinc Avhite. Cleanli- 
 ness in the manipulation and moderate 
 
 ; heating in mixing are the principal 
 points and contribute essentially to the 
 snow-white color of the cement. 
 
 Crystalline Coating for Wood or 
 
 ; Paper. Mix a very concentrated so- 
 lution of salt with dextrine and lay the 
 thinnest coating of the fluid on the sur- 
 face to be covered by means of a broad 
 soft brush. After drying, the surface 
 has a beautiful, bright, mother-of-pearl 
 coating, which, in consequence of the 
 dextrine, adheres firmly to paper and 
 wood. The coating may be made ad- 
 hesive to glass by going over it with an 
 alcoholic shellac solution. The follow- 
 ing salts are mentioned as adapted to 
 produce the most beautiful crystalline 
 coating, viz. : Magnesium sulphate, 
 sodium acetate, and tin sulphate. Paper 
 must first be sized; otherwise it will 
 absorb the liquid and prevent the for- 
 mation of crystals. 
 
 Enamel for Fine Cards and Other 
 Purposes. For white and for all pale 
 and delicate shades take 24 parts by 
 weight of paraffme, add 100 parts of 
 pure kaolin (china clay) very dry, and 
 reduce to a fine powder. Before mix- 
 ing with the kaolin the paraffine 
 must be heated to the 'fusing point. 
 Let the mixture cool, and.it will form 
 a homogeneous mass, which for use is 
 reduced to powder, and worked into 
 paste in a paint mill with warm water. 
 It can be tinted according to fancy. 
 
 Imitation of Cinnabar. Dissolve in 
 5 parts of warm water made slightly- 
 alkaline by the addition of a small 
 quantity of soda 1 part of eosin, and 
 add with constant stirring 100 parts of 
 best orange minium ; then add 3 parts 
 of sugar of lead or lead nitrate dis- 
 solved in warm water. The mass is 
 filtered and pressed, and the press 
 cakes are cut into small pieces and 
 
422 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 dried as quickly as possible. After 
 drying the product is ground and passed 
 through a fine sieve. 
 
 Enamel free from Lead and Metallic 
 Oxides for Iron and Sheet-iron, and 
 Utensils Manufactured from them: 
 
 PARTS. 
 
 PARTS. 
 
 Silica . . 
 
 30 to 50 or quartz . 30 to 50 
 
 Flint . . 
 
 10 to 20 
 
 granite . 20 to 30 
 
 Kaoline 
 
 10 to 20 
 
 borax . . 16 to 20 
 
 Pipe-clay . 
 
 8 to 10 
 
 glass . . fi to 10 
 
 Chalk . . 
 
 6 to 10 
 
 magnesia 10 to 15 
 
 Porcelain meal 5 to 15 
 
 fluorspar . 5 to 20 
 
 
 weathered) 
 
 Boracic acid . 20 to 40 
 
 sodium V10 to 20 
 
 
 carbonate ) 
 
 Saltpetre . . 6 to 10 
 
 heavy spar 2 to 8 
 
 Gypsum , . 2 to 6 
 
 fluorspar. 3 to 10 
 
 After grinding every ingredient sepa- 
 rately they are all intimately mixed and 
 fused to enamel. This, after again 
 grinding, is applied and -burnt in. 
 
 The proportions of these constituents 
 may vary according to the nature of the 
 metal to be enamelled. The enamel 
 should be applied in thin layers, as it 
 expands in different proportions from 
 the sheet-iron on exposure to a high 
 temperature. The articles must be 
 slowly cooled, as otherwise an unequal 
 contraction takes place, which causes 
 the enamel to crack off. 
 
 New Method for the Production of 
 Water-proof and Incombustible Fabrics. 
 The fabric is immersed for a few minutes 
 in a 7 to 8 per cent, solution of gelatine 
 heated to 104 F., then pressed out 
 between rollers and dried to a certain 
 degree in the air. It is then placed 
 for a few minutes in a cold 30 to 40 per 
 cent, solution of alum, hung up for an 
 hour in the air, washed in cold water, 
 and dried. It is claimed that by this 
 process, which is patented in England, 
 the fabric is rendered water-proof and 
 incombustible without becoming .stiff 
 or losing its ductility, or preventing 
 the free passage of air. 
 
 Phosphorescent Enamel. Commercial 
 phosphorescent paint in powder is inti- 
 mately mixed with of its weight of 
 very finely-pulverized fluorspar or 
 cryolite, and i of calcium borate. The 
 mixture is made into a paste with water, 
 and applied in a uniform layer to the 
 articles to be enamelled by means of a 
 brush. They are then burnt in the 
 usual manner. 
 
 Preparation of Lustre-colors with 
 Carbolic Acid. The present methods 
 of preparing lustre-colors, which are 
 much used in the decoration of earthen- 
 ware and glass, have the disadvantage 
 that a large portion of the metallic 
 salts remains undissolved, and is sepa- 
 rated and lost in an undissolved state 
 in dissolving the resinous mass. With 
 the aid of carbolic acid it is possible 
 to prepare lustre-colors without an ap- 
 preciable loss of metallic combinations. 
 
 Bismuth Lustre. Dissolve 10 parts 
 by weight of bismuth in nitro-muriatic 
 acid and evaporate to the consistency 
 of thin syrup. When cold add 50 parts 
 by weight of carbolic acid liquefied by 
 moderate heating in warm water. Let 
 the mixture stand a fe.w hours, as by 
 stirring and heating at once a too ener- 
 getic reaction, accompanied by strong 
 foaming, takes place. Then stir the 
 mixture with a glass rod and heat it 
 for some time in a steam-bath. During 
 this operation vapors of hydrochloric 
 acid are evolved. The mass is taken 
 from the steam-bath as soon as a drop 
 taken from the vessel by means of the 
 glass rod dissolves clear in nitro-ben- 
 zole. When this is the case the mixture 
 is dissolved in nitro-benzole and is 
 ready for use. 
 
 Tin Lustre. Dissolve 10 parts by 
 weight of tin in nitro-muriatic acid, 
 evaporate to the consistency of thin 
 syrup, and treat with 50 parts by weight 
 of carbolic acid in the same manner as 
 prescribed for bismuth lustre. The 
 subsequent treatment for this and the 
 following preparations is the same as 
 that of bismuth lustre. 
 
 Uranium Lustre. Dissolve 15 parts 
 by weight of uranic nitrate in 40 parts 
 by weight of pure hydrochloric acid, 
 and treat with 50 parts by weight of 
 carbolic acid. 
 
 Iron Lustre. Dissolve 15 parts by 
 weight of ferrous chloride in pure hy- 
 drochloric acid, and after evaporating 
 to the consistency of thin syrup treat 
 with 50 parts by weight of carbolic 
 acid. 
 
 In the same manner as iron lustre 
 manganese lustre is prepared from 
 manganous chloride, nickel lustre from 
 nickel chloride, and cobalt lustre from 
 cobaltous chloride. 
 
 For the production of combination 
 
COPYING. 
 
 423 
 
 lustres the different preparations are 
 mixed together. 
 
 Soap Varnishes. These varnishes 
 are valuable on account of their cheap- 
 ness, their resistance to water, and their 
 elasticity. The simplest mode of pre- 
 paring them is as follows : Tallow soap 
 is boiled in rain water until a clear 
 solution is formed, and the hot solution 
 filtered through a cloth. It is then 
 again heated, and after diluting with 
 an equal volume of rain water precipi- 
 tated with boiling solution of alum. 
 The precipitated stearate of aluminium 
 is washed several times with boiling 
 water and dried, heated on a water-bath 
 until transparent, and stirred into hot 
 turpentine until it forms a thick varnish, 
 which, if too thick, can be thinned with 
 hot turpentine. 
 
 Johnson's Varnish for Water-proofing 
 Paper or Cloth. Dissolve green vitriol 
 in water, add soap to the solution, and 
 collect and dry the precipitate of stear- 
 ate of iron or iron soap. By dissolving 
 the stearate of iron in carbon sulphide 
 or benzole a liquid is obtained which 
 leaves a water-proof layer upon paper 
 or cloth. If the paper or cloth is to 
 remain white, alum solution is substi- 
 tuted for the green vitriol, and the re- 
 sulting white stearate of aluminium is 
 used in the same manner. 
 
 Soap Varnish for Gilding. This is 
 prepared from resin soap which is made 
 by heating a solution of 50 parts of 
 soda in 150 of water to the boiling 
 point, and adding gradually and witli 
 constant stirring 100 parts o'f powdered 
 rosin; the boiling is then continued 
 2 or 3 hours until the liquid is trans- 
 parent. After cooling and pouring off 
 the supernatant fluid the resin soap is 
 mixed with 100 parts of water and 15 
 of soaked glue and heated until the 
 whole is dissolved. This is a quick- 
 drying varnish, but can be made slow- 
 drying by adding 10 to 20 parts of glyc- 
 erine of 28 B. The resin soap mixed 
 with 5 per cent, of its weight of am- 
 monia forms a cheap and durable 
 vehicle for paint. 
 
 Water-proof Glue. Dissolve of gum 
 sandarac and mastic each 5i drachms in 
 i pint of alcohol and add 5J drachms of 
 turpentine. Place the solution in a 
 glue boiler upon the fire and gradually 
 stir into it an equal quantity of a strong, 
 
 hot solution of glue and isinglass. The 
 mixture is ready for use after straining 
 it, while hot, through a cloth. 
 
 For gluing mineral substances it is 
 best to stir 5-i drachms of finely-pulver- 
 i/ed glass into the strained mixture. 
 Articles glued with this preparation can 
 be placed under water without danger, 
 of the glued parts separating. 
 
 COPYING. 
 
 New Method of Copying Drawing*. 
 The paper on which the copy is to 
 appear is first dipped in a bath con- 
 sisting of 30 parts of white soap, 30 
 parts of alum, 40 parts of glue, 10 parts 
 of albumen, 2 parts of glacial acetic 
 acid, 10 parts of alcohol of 60, and 
 500 parts of water. It is afterwards 
 put into a second bath which contains 
 50 parts of burnt umber ground in al- 
 cohol, 20 parts of lampblack, 10 parts 
 of glue, and 10 parts of bichromate of 
 potassium in 500 parts of water. The 
 paper is now sensitive to light and 
 must therefore be preserved in the 
 dark. In preparing paper to make the 
 positive print another bath is made 
 just like the first one, except that 
 lampblack is substituted for the burnt 
 umber. To obtain colored positives 
 the black is replaced by some blue, red, 
 or other pigment. In making the copy 
 the drawing to be copied is put in a 
 photographic printing-frame, and the 
 negative paper laid on it and then ex- 
 posed in the usual manner. In clear 
 weather an illumination of two minutes 
 will suffice. After the exposure the 
 negative is put in water to develop it, 
 and the drawing will appear in white 
 on a dark ground : in other words it m 
 a negative or reverse picture. The 
 paper is then dried and a positive made 
 irom it by placing it on the glass of a 
 printing-frame and laying the positive 
 paper upon it and exposing as before. 
 After placing the frame in the sun for 
 two minutes the positive is taken out 
 and put in water. The black dissolves 
 off without the necessity of moving it 
 back and forth. 
 
 Phytochromotypy. This is a process 
 of producing impressions of leaves and 
 plants and is effected as follows : The 
 plant is first dried and flattened by 
 
424 
 
 TECIINO-CIIEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 pressure between unsized paper, or it 
 may be done rapidly with a hot iron. 
 The surface to be copied is then brushed 
 with a solution of aniline color in 
 alcohol and allowed to dry, which will 
 take place very rapidly. If the im- 
 pression is to be taken on paper, im- 
 merse the latter in water for a few 
 seconds, and remove the excess by 
 pressing between blotting-paper. Place 
 it then on some non-absorbing surface 
 and apply the plant colored side down ; 
 place over it a sheet of strong paper, 
 and while it is held securely in position 
 stamp the whole surface with a wad of 
 cotton. A cold iron may be lightly 
 passed over the paper instead of using 
 the cotton, and if a few sheets of tissue 
 paper are interposed between the paper 
 and plant its outline and veins prin- 
 cipally will be copied, while without it 
 the whole surface may be impressed on 
 the paper. If the paper which is to re- 
 ceive the impression is moistened with 
 alcohol instead of water, the impression 
 will be brighter and the paper will re- 
 tain its lustre or glaze better. If a very 
 light coating of glycerine be spread 
 upon the colored plant when perfectly 
 dry, and the excess removed by un- 
 glazed paper, one or more prints may 
 be immediately taken upon dry paper 
 or other dry surface. If the print 
 fihows blots when a strong color is used, 
 pass over the surface with a solution 
 of saltpetre which will moderate the 
 impression. Different parts of plants 
 may be colored differently to conform 
 to nature or individual taste. Defects 
 may be touched up with a pen dipped 
 in the color. 
 
 EXPLOSIVE AGENTS. 
 
 Wasting Cartridges. Dissolve 73 
 parts of saltpetre and 1 of magnesium 
 sulphate in ^ of their weight of boiling 
 water, and compound with 8 parts of 
 ground wood charcoal, 8 of bran, and 
 10 of sulphur, previously jnixed dry. 
 Stir the mass thoroughly, and heat for 
 2 hours at a temperature of 284 F., 
 and then dry in a drying apparatus for 
 5 hours at a temperature of 122 F. 
 The dried mass is pressed into cylin- 
 ders, four of which are generally 
 formed into a cartridge in a paper 
 shell. 
 
 Bla sting Paper. Coat n sized paper 
 with a hot mixture of 11 drachms of 
 ferrocyanide of potassium dissolved in 
 3i pints of water, 11 ounces of bass- 
 wood charcoal, H ounces of refined 
 saltpetre, 2 ounces of potassium chlo- 
 rate, and 6 drachms of wheat starch, 
 stirred to a paste with 14 ounces of 
 water ; dry and smooth. For use roll 
 strips of the prepared paper into car- 
 tridges. 
 
 Explosive Combination. An explo- 
 sive combination consists, according to 
 a French patent, of 80 parts of pow- 
 dered potassium chlorate, 20 parts of 
 ordinary coal tar, and a porous, ab- 
 sorbent substance, such as pulverized 
 wood-charcoal or silicious earth. Po- 
 tassium permanganate can be substi- 
 tuted for a portion of the chlorate. 
 
 Explosive Substance. This, accord- 
 ing to an English patent, consists of 9 
 parts of potassium chlorate, 2 of carbo- 
 hydrate (sugar), 1 of flour, and 1 of fer- 
 rocyanide of potassium. 
 
 Explosive and Pyrotechnic Sub- 
 stances. Ferrocyanide of potassium, 
 saltpetre,and chlorate 
 of potassium are dis- 
 solved and mixed 
 with pulverized char- 
 coal. The water is 
 then evaporated, and 
 the substances are 
 combined by the ad- 
 mixture of paramne 
 or resins. The paraf- 
 fiiie is used either 
 melted or dissolved 
 in benzine. The mass 
 is made into any de- 
 sired shape, and can 
 also be used for coat- 
 ing paper. 
 
 Method of Blasting 
 under Water with 
 Compressed Gun-cot- 
 ton. In the accom- 
 C panying illustration, 
 Fig. 60, aa represent 
 layers of gun-cotton, 
 b the cartridge of com- 
 pressed gun-cotton, 
 and d the quick match 
 with the cap. The 
 
 Fig. 60. 
 
 cartridge is enclosed in the rubber tube 
 e, which on the top is fastened water- 
 tight around the quick-match, so that 
 
EXPLOSIVE AGENTS. 
 
 425. 
 
 when the cartridge is-, placed under 
 water the latter can penetrate the gun- 
 cotton only from below. The entire 
 charge is enclosed in the tin case c, 
 which is open on top and bottom for 
 the passage of water. The cartridge re- 
 mains explosible until all the gun- 
 cotton is soaked through by the water 
 entering from below, which with a 
 cartridge about 1 inch in diameter and 
 4$ inches long will be the wise in ex- 
 actly 22 hours, which makes the unex- 
 pected explosion of a charge missing 
 fire impossible after that time. 
 
 New Blasting Powder. Saltpetre, 
 potassium chlorate, and finely-pulver- 
 ized coal-tar pitch are converted with 
 benzine into a plastic paste, which is 
 made into flat cakes and freed from the 
 
 of this powder are: 1. Facility and 
 quickness of manufacture. 2. Safety 
 in its preparation. 3. Absence of all 
 hygroscopic properties (4 ounces placed 
 upon a very sensitive scale in an open- 
 window for 4 days of misty weather did 
 not increase in weight). 4. Superior 
 force, 2i times that of ordinary powder. 
 5. Very small residue. 6. Scarcely 
 perceptible smoke. , 
 
 New Method of Preparing Giant 
 Powder. Two mixtures are prepared : 
 
 a. 36.06 parts of potassium or sodium 
 bisulphate, 28.60 of potassium nitrate, 
 and 9.20 of glycerine. 
 
 6. 50 to 55 parts of some chlorate, and 
 50 to 45 parts of a substance rich inr 
 carbon. 
 
 On igniting a mixture of the two, it 
 
 Fig. 61. 
 
 benzine by evaporation, and then 
 worked in the samemannerasordinary 
 powder. The grains, which, like those 
 of the ordinary article, are-irregular in 
 form, can be made of any desired size. 
 The density, which is 0.9 or somewhat 
 more, corresponds with that of ordinary 
 gunpowder. This new powder pos- 
 sesses considerable hardness, does not 
 lose color, even when wet, and without 
 undergoing a change stands a higher 
 degree of heat than that of melting 
 tin. It is not inflammable by single 
 sparks of short duration. Ignited free, 
 it burns quickly with a white flame; 
 in a closed space it burns, however, 
 very energetically with little smoke 
 and leaving a very small residue. A 
 gun is not in the least affected by its 
 combustion products. The advantages 
 
 is claimed mixture 6 evolves sufficient 
 heat to effect the nitrification of the 
 glycerine and explosion of the nitro- 
 glycerine. The material rich in carbon 
 is saturated with concentrated solution* 
 of the bisulphate, nitrate, and chlorate, 
 and dried. The mass is then mixed 
 with the glycerine and made into car- 
 tridges. 
 
 Preparation of Hyponitric Acid and 
 its Use. for Explosive and Illuminating 
 Substances. The following process has 
 been patented in France and Germany : 
 Nitrate of lead is heated in the retort 
 A (Fig. 61). The developed gases are 
 first conducted through sulphuric acid, 
 which retains the moisture, and then 
 into the condensers C of enamelled cast- 
 iron, which rest in the cooling vessel E, 
 whose cooling fluid is kept at zero by 
 
TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 the ice machine G. While the oxygen 
 escapes for further use through D y the 
 hyponitrie acid collects in the reser- 
 voirs IT and </, the first of which is pro- 
 vided with a test-cock for the examina- 
 tion of the acid. The reservoir / con- 
 tains sulphuric acid. From J the 
 hyponitrie acid is brought by the pump 
 O into the vessel L, and from there is 
 drawn into tin cans. The oxide of lead 
 in the retorts is reconverted into nitrate 
 by nitric acid. 
 
 A mixture of carbon di-sulphide and 
 hyponitric acid is a powerful explosive, 
 which is exploded by fulminate of mer- 
 cury or gunpowder. It does not ex- 
 plode by a shock alone, nor by heating 
 to 398 F. A mixture of equal parts 
 of hyponitrie acid and carbon di-sul- 
 phide gives the most powerful explo- 
 sion. 
 
 The mixture burns in the open air 
 with a brilliant white light, wnich is 
 powerfully actinic. 
 
 GLASS, 
 
 Appert's Method of Blowing Glass 
 by Means of Compressed Air. The air 
 is compressed by a double cylinder 
 pump to 50 pounds per square inch. 
 The compressed air passes into 12 steel 
 reservoirs, which together form a bat- 
 tery. 
 
 Each reservoir has a capacity of 
 150 gallons, and is tested to stand a 
 working pressure of 70 pounds per 
 square inch. A cylinder placed on the 
 side is provided 'with a safety-valve 
 with an alarm whistle. The reser- 
 voirs serve .as accumulators for night 
 work. 
 
 Lead pipes, 1 inch in diameter, are 
 used for distributing the compressed 
 air. They are placed in the upper 
 part of the work-room, and provided at 
 suitable places with discharge-cocks. 
 For blowing large vessels the air can 
 be taken direct from the conduit, while 
 for small articles the air is conducted 
 into collecting cylinders, and the press- 
 ure regulated according to the nature 
 of the articles to be blown. 
 
 The compressed air is conducted to 
 every large room by underground iron 
 pipes connected with the accumulators 
 and the collecting cylinder, which is 
 
 provided with contrivances by which 
 the pressure can be regulated to J 
 ounce to the square inch. From the 
 pressure regulator conduits lying upon 
 the floor lead to the work-places of the 
 glass-blowers. The conduits are pro- 
 vided with cocks which can be regu- 
 lated by the workman with the foot. 
 On the cocks are rubber pipes commu- 
 nicating with the air-nozzle, consisting 
 of a rubber cone enclosed by a copper 
 case which is fastened to an iron pipe 
 movable in a stationary pipe. The 
 two pipes are separated from each other 
 by oiled tow. 
 
 One end of the pipe is connected with 
 the nozzle. Figs. 62 to 74 represent the 
 manner of connection. 
 
 The glass-blower works upon a bench 
 upon which the pipe connected with 
 the nozzle is carried by a small car- 
 riage, which moves in a frame fastened 
 to the ledge of the bench, and is pro- 
 vided with 1 vertical and 4 horizontal 
 rollers. 
 
 For fashioning an article a curved 
 metal pipe called a "swan neck" is 
 used. It is connected with the air-noz- 
 zle by means of a piece of rubber pipe, 
 which rests upon the blowing-pipe, 
 which is held straight. 
 
 A third arrangement allows of blow- 
 ing free in the air by holding the blow- 
 ing-pipe perpendicular or slanting, the 
 glass being always under it. 
 
 It will be readily understood that by 
 varying the shape and adjustments of 
 the pipes fastened to the air-holes and 
 by fitting to the pipes rubber hose of 
 various lengths and connecting each 
 with a nozzle, the blowing-pipe can be 
 given any desired mobility, and the 
 smallest as well as the largest articles, 
 for instance cylinders 3 feet in diam- 
 eter, can be blown with the greatest 
 ease. 
 
 Another use of compressed air is for 
 the manufacture of pressed glass. Ap- 
 pert's apparatus consists of a cylinder, 
 in which moves a piston. Thick rubber 
 plates on both ends of the piston-track 
 serve for breaking the shocks. The 
 core is fastened to the lower part of the 
 piston, whose motion can be accurately 
 regulated. 
 
 The piston is put in motion by a slide- 
 valve constructed similar to that of a 
 steam-engine. This machine can exert 
 
GLASS. 
 
 427 
 
 Figs. 62 and 65, 
 
 a pressure of 1450 pounds, and the 
 pressure is carried out with such rapid- 
 ity that extremely thin articles can be 
 made. The average capacity of the 
 
 machine is 100 piston strokes per hour, 
 with a consumption of 2 cubic feet of 
 compressed air. 
 
 The expenses of blowing glass by 
 compressed air are not increased, but 
 on account of the great rapidity of the 
 work rather diminished ; and, besides, 
 the work is easier on the workmen and 
 the process does away with many evils 
 of the present manner of blowing 
 
 Without the aid of illustrations it 
 would be difficult to give a complete 
 description of the process. From the 
 accompanying accurate illustrations 
 with explanations the practical impor- 
 tance and ingenious arrangement of 
 the process will be readily recog- 
 nized : 
 
 Figs. 62 and 63 show a section of the 
 air-nozzle into which the workman in- 
 troduces his blowing-pipe in the mo- 
 ment of blowing. 
 
 Fig. 64 is a longitudinal .section 
 through the working-room of the glass- 
 house. 
 
 a. Air reservoir under a pressure of 
 8.8 pounds. 
 
 Fig. 64. 
 
428 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 Fig. 65. 
 
 r 
 
 Fig. 66. 
 
 Fig, 67. 
 
GLASS. 
 
 J 
 
 
 Fig. 69, 
 
430 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 6. Air reservoir under a pressure of 
 6i ounces. 
 
 c. High-pressure air conduit. 
 
 (1. Low-pressure air conduit. 
 
 Fig. 65. Cross section through the 
 work-room of the glass-blowers. 
 
 Fig. 71. 
 
 /. Machine for compressing air. 
 
 g. Pressure regulator. 
 
 oo. Distributing openings with stop- 
 cocks. 
 
 Fig. 66. Automatic pressure regulator 
 (Delaneare's system). 
 
 Fig. 67. View of the movable appa- 
 
 ratus called a "swan neck," which 
 serves for blowing gas and lamp chim- 
 neys, bottles, etc. 
 
 Fig. 68. Side view of the same appa- 
 ratus. 
 
 Fig. 69. General arrangement of mir- 
 ror rollers. 
 
 a. Distributing plane for the com* 
 pressed air. 
 
 b. Distributing cock turned by 
 treadles. 
 
 cc'. Treadles upon which the work- 
 man places his foot. 
 
 d. Distributing pipes. 
 
 /. Compensation roller, which, ac- 
 cording to need, permits the short- 
 ening or lengthening of the rubber 
 pipe. 
 
 Figs. 73 and 74. 
 
 Fig. 70. Side view of this apparatus. 
 Fig. 71. Glass-blower's bench. Side 
 view. 
 Fig. 72." Ground-plan of the same. 
 
 a. Vessel containing compressed air. 
 
 b. Cock for decreasing pressure, 
 which is turned by the treadle c. 
 
 d. Nozzle into which the workman 
 inserts his blowing-pipe. 
 
 e. Frame with hinge-joints, in which 
 moves the roller arrangement carrying 
 the air-nozzle. 
 
 Figs. 73 and 74. Apparatus for " free 
 blowing," for the manufacture of lamp- 
 shades, flasks, and retorts. 
 
 a. Distributing cock turned by means 
 of the pedal c. 
 
 b. Nozzle movable around the shaft 
 o, which .allows the pipe to assume all 
 positions in a vertical plane. 
 
 Cutting Glass with. a Carbon Pencil. 
 The carbon pencils are made according 
 to different receipts, of which we give 
 three : 
 
GLASS. 
 
 1. Dissolve 100 parts of gum- Arabic 
 in 240 parts of water, and mix the so- 
 lution with a paste prepared by trit- 
 urating 40 parts of powdered gum 
 tragacanth with 640 parts of hot water. 
 Then, having dissolved 20 parts of 
 storax and 20 parts of benzoin in 90 
 parts of alcohol, strain the latter solu- 
 tion and add to it the mixed mucilage. 
 Finally mix the whole intimately with ! 
 240 to 280 parts of powdered charcoal, 
 so as to be uniform throughout. The- 
 charcoal should be previously passed 
 through a fine sieve. The doughy mass 
 is cut into suitable pieces, which are 
 rolled between two boards dusted over 
 with coal dust until cylindrical strips j 
 about J inch in thickness are formed, 
 which are allowed to dry slowly be- 
 tween blotting-paper. When using 
 them, one end is pointed like a lead- 
 pencil, and, after having previously 
 made a scratch in the glass with a file 
 or diamond, the heated and glowing 
 end of the pencil is carried along the 
 line in which the glass is intended to 
 be fractured. 
 
 2. Dissolve 8 to 10 parts of gum trag- 
 acanth in about 100 parts of hot 
 water, add to the mixture, with con- 
 stant stirring, 30 parts of acetate of 
 lead and 60 parts of finely-sifted beach- 
 wood charcoal, and proceed as in the 
 previous receipt. 
 
 3. Sticks of soft wood (willow or 
 poplar) of about the thickness of a fin- 
 ger, and thoroughly dry, are immersed 
 for about one week in a concentrated 
 solution of acetate of lead, after which 
 they are again dried. When ignited 
 these sticks burn like glaziers' char- 
 coal. 
 
 The first receipt yields the best prod- 
 uct, as it burns much slower than the 
 others. These pencils maintain a more 
 uniform heat than a hot iron which is 
 constantly getting cold. 
 
 Etching Ink for Glass. Equal parts 
 of hydrofluoric acid, fluoride of ammo- 
 nium, and dry precipitated barium sul- '< 
 phate are rubbed together in a por- 1 
 celain mortar. When intimately | 
 mixed, the mass is transferred to a dish ; 
 made of platinum, lead, or gutta- 
 percha, and fuming hydrofluoric acid 
 poured over it successively and rapidly 
 stirred with a gutta-percha rod, shaped 
 like a pestle, until the impression left 
 
 by the rod quickly vanishes. The re- 
 sulting fluid can be applied with an 
 ordinary steel -pen, and the glass written 
 on is etched immediately, the etched 
 portions being so beautifully roughened 
 that they are visible at a long distance. 
 The ink only needs to act for 15 sec- 
 onds on the glass, and a longer action 
 may cause the edges to lose their sharp- 
 ness. 
 
 The ink cannot of course be kept in 
 glass bottles, but only in gutta-percha 
 vessels closed with corks protected 
 with wax or paraifine. Owing to its 
 greater specific gravity the barium 
 compound used to thicken it settles; 
 hence the bottle must be well shaken 
 each time before using. 
 
 In making good etching ink the 
 quality of the barium sulphate is of 
 great consequence. It is best prepared 
 by precipitating barium chloride with 
 an excess of sulphuric acid, washing 
 well by decahtation, filtering, and dry- 
 ing at 248 F. It is only in this man- 
 ner that it can be obtained sufficiently 
 fine and impalpable. Concentrated 
 hydrofluoric acid may cause serious in- 
 flammation and even ulcers if left in 
 contact with the skin for some time, 
 so that care should be taken, both in 
 making and using the ink, not to touch 
 it to the fingers. 
 
 To make ordinary etchings more dis- 
 tinct and visible at a greater distance 
 it is frequently necessary with delicate 
 lines, especially on graduated chemical 
 ware, burettes, eudiometers, etc., to rub 
 some clay, red lead, or soot over them. 
 A small quantity adheres to the rough- 
 ened surface, but it soon rubs off. The 
 etchings made with this ink are so 
 much rougher that if a strip of metal is 
 rubbed over the lines some will adhere, 
 and they acquire the color and lustre 
 of the metal. If a name is written on 
 glass with this ink and the spot rubbed 
 with a thick brass wire, the name will 
 appear in golden letters, and may be 
 protected by a thin coat of colorless 
 varnish. Lead may also be used, but 
 for chemical apparatus platinum is pre- 
 ferred, as it easily rubs into the lines 
 and requires no protective coating. 
 
 Glass ivith Copper Lustre. Pins with 
 glass heads of a beautiful coppery ap- 
 pearance are found in commerce. The 
 glass used for such heads is composed of 
 
432 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 45 per cent, of fine quartz sand contain- 
 ing some ferric oxide and lime (so-called 
 silver sand), 36 per cent, of minium, 11 
 per cent, of soda, 2 per cent, of salt- 
 petre, 3.25 per cent, of pyrolusite, 2.5 
 per cent, of cupric oxide, and 0.25 per 
 cent, of crystallized bismuth nitrate. 
 
 Mix the ingredients thoroughly and, 
 after melting in a clay crucible, stir the 
 melted mass and keep it in flux for 
 some time. The resulting product 
 when cold is a nearly black trans- 
 parent glass, which can be easily 
 shaped into pin-heads and fastened to 
 steel pins by melting in the blast lamp. 
 The heads show at first the dark ap- 
 pearance of the glass, but by bringing 
 the melted glass mass, when no longer 
 at a red heat, into the interior of the 
 blast flame, it acquires in a few seconds 
 the appearance and lustre of polished 
 copper. 
 
 Lead-pencils for Glass and Porce- 
 lain. A. Blade Pencils. Ten parts 
 of best lampblack. 40 parts of white 
 wax, and 10 parts of suet. 
 
 li. White Pencils. Forty parts of 
 Kremser white, 20 parts of white wax, 
 and 10 ]>arts of suet. 
 
 C. Light-blue Pencils. Ten parts 
 of Berlin blue, 5 parts of white wax, 
 and 10 parts of suet. 
 
 D. Dark-blue Pencils, Fifteen parts 
 of Berlin blue, 5 parts of white wax, 
 and 14 parts of suet. 
 
 K. Yellow Pencils, Ten parts of 
 chrome-yellow, 20 parts of white wax, 
 and 10 parts of suet. 
 
 The coloring material is mixed with 
 the heated wax and suet, the mixture 
 ground and sufficiently dried in the air 
 to allow of iis being pressed into roimd 
 pencils by .means of a hydraulic press, 
 and treated like ordinary lead-pencils. 
 After pressing, the pencils are dried in 
 the air uniil they have acquired suffi- 
 cient solidity to be glued into wooden 
 cases. 
 
 Lithium Glass. Lepidolite is con- 
 tinuously heated 6 to 8 hours, without, 
 however, being allowed to fuse, then 
 cooled in water and converted into a 
 fine powder, which is melted in clay 
 pots like ordinary glass material and 
 worked into glass. All fluxes, clarify- 
 ing material, and coloring matters used 
 in the manufacture of glass can be 
 added as required or desired. 
 
 Manufacture of Plate Glass. The 
 following is one of the formula? gen- 
 erally employed : Silica 78 parts, pot- 
 ash 2, soda 13, lime 5, alumina 2. The 
 materials in a comminuted form are 
 fused in crucibles or pots, exposed to 
 an intense heat iii a furnace, complete 
 fusion requiring about 20 hours. From 
 the pots it is ladled into a cistern, 
 called the cuvette, which is also placed 
 in a hot furnace, where it remains until 
 the glass is fired and in proper con- 
 dition to flow readily and equably. 
 When this is the case the cuvette is 
 lifted out of the furnace by means of 
 tongs and hoisted on to a carriage by 
 which it is moved to the casting table. 
 It is then skimmed to remove impur- 
 ities from its surface, and hoisted by a 
 crane immediately over the casting 
 table. The casting table is surrounded 
 by side and end ledges corresponding in 
 depth to the thickness of the plate to 
 be made, to prevent the escape of the 
 liquefied glass which is poured upon it 
 by tilting the cuvette. During the 
 pouring a washer is drawn immediately 
 in front of the glass to remove any dirt 
 from the casting slab, and when this 
 has been covered to the requisite depth 
 a heavy copper roller is drawn over the 
 surface of the glass, causing it to ex- 
 hibit a beautiful iridescent play of 
 colors ; this roller flattens its upper sur- 
 face and causes an excess of the metal 
 to be thrown off at the end of the table, 
 where it is received in a trough of water. 
 
 A thick flange of the glass is turned 
 up at the end of the plate, to which, 
 when somewhat hardened, a rake- 
 sliaped iron is applied, by which it is 
 forced into the annealing oven, or upon 
 a carriage by which it is conveyed to 
 the oven. As the plate is yet plastic, 
 its under side takes an impression from 
 the bricks of the oven, while the upper 
 surface, though smooth, is uneven; it 
 consequently requires to be ground 
 and polished. After remaining in the 
 oven about 5 days, and being allowed 
 to cool gradually, it is carefully ex- 
 amined to see if it will admit of being 
 finished as a single plate, or whether it 
 has flaws or knots which necessitate it 
 being cut into smaller pieces. If the 
 latter be the case the defective por- 
 tions are cut out and the remainder 
 .serves for plates of less size. In either 
 
GLASS. 
 
 433 
 
 case the plates are embedded in plaster- 
 of- Paris upon stone tables about 8 feet 
 wide and 15 feet long. The tables are 
 arranged in pairs at about 10 feet dis- 
 tance apart. 
 
 Other plates of glass are cemented to 
 the under surfaces of the two swing- 
 tables or runners, which by means of a 
 horizontal frame between each are 
 caused to traverse backward and for- 
 ward, a circular motion being at the 
 same time imparted by means of a 
 vertical crank shaft pivoted to the 
 central and upper part of the table and 
 actuated by bevel-gearing ; four other 
 cranks, one at each corner of the frame, 
 serve to guide and limit its motion, 
 causing its central point to describe a 
 circle about 4 feet in diameter, so that 
 different portions of the faces of the 
 upper and lower glass plates are con- 
 tinually applied to each other. Sharp 
 river -sand sifted into two different sizes 
 is used as an abradant; when the sur- 
 face of the lower plate has been ground 
 quite flat by tbe coarser sand, it is 
 removed by careful washing, and the 
 finer sand substituted for it: to this 
 succeeds emery powder, a coarser and 
 then a finer quality being applied, the 
 glass being thoroughly washed previ- 
 ous to each change of material, so that 
 none of the coarser particles previously 
 used may remain to cause scratches on 
 its surface. The plates are then in- 
 verted and the same process is repeated 
 on the other side. For this purpose 
 the frame above described is suspended 
 by chains, which admit of its being 
 raised from the surface of the lower 
 table. These machines do not permit 
 the use of very fine emery, as their 
 weight and velocity at such near prox- 
 imity as they would necessarily be 
 would tear the surface of the glass"; the 
 velocity is consequently reduced when 
 the liner emery is employed, and a dif- 
 ferent machine worked by hand-power 
 is used for the final smoothing, prepar- 
 atory to the process of polishing. This 
 is effected upon stone benches about 
 2 feet high, having plane upper sur- 
 faces which are covered with wet can- 
 vas. Upon this one of the larger plates 
 is laid, the wetted surface of the canvas 
 serving to retain it in its place. A 
 smaller plate is used as a grinder or 
 runner ; if this be of such si/e that a 
 28 
 
 uniform pressure of it cannot be im- 
 parted to it by hand, leaden weights 
 are distributed over its surface. Emery 
 powders of gradually increasing fine- 
 ness are applied with water, and the 
 runner is traversed back and forth by 
 hand with a semicircular stroke, its 
 path being slightly changed at each 
 stroke, while the runner itself is gradu- 
 ally turned around as on an axis dur- 
 ing the progress of the work. These 
 combined movements serve to evenly 
 distribute the emery, and insure an 
 equal amount of grinding, both to the 
 bed-plate and runner. 
 
 About six sizes of carefully washed 
 emery are used in smoothing, and 
 between each change the plates and 
 everything about the apparatus are 
 carefully washed, including the hands 
 of the operators. The fine emery pow- 
 der last employed imparts a very 
 smooth surface to the plates, which are 
 now ready for polishing. The polish- 
 ing machine has a bed mounted upon 
 rollers, and traversed slowly back and 
 forth sideways by a rack and pinion 
 beneath. Two carriages supported on 
 wheels on each end, which run on rails 
 at each end of the table, have a recip- 
 rocation of about 2 feet by means of 
 two opposed cranks, so that one ad- 
 vances while the other recedes. They 
 are placed about 4 feet apart, and to 
 their under surfaces are attached rub- 
 bers having sockets in their upper parts 
 into which bars with rounded ends on 
 the under side of the carriage are fitted, 
 allowing a certain freedom of motion 
 independent of each other ; they measure 
 6X8 inches, are placed at distances of 
 1 foot apart, and their faces are covered 
 with thick felt. By the reciprocating 
 motion of the carriage and the transverse 
 movement of the bed they are caused 
 to act on every part of the surface of 
 the glass, a sufficient pressure being 
 imparted to each by weights. 
 
 The powder generally employed in 
 polishing is " Venetian pink," a sub- 
 stance containing a small proportion of 
 oxide of iron mingled with earthy 
 matter. It is used with water, which 
 reduces the friction and prevents the 
 glass from becoming heated. Tripoli, 
 crocus, and putty powders, when used 
 with water, cut too actively to produce 
 a high polish in this way; though 
 
434 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 they are employed dry for the last 
 finish in hand-polishing, the amount 
 of surface acted on, with the velocity 
 and power of the machinery, would 
 render these liable to tear the surface 
 of the glass, besides exposing it to the 
 contingency of being broken by the 
 heat evolved. 
 
 , Ornamenting Frosted Glass, A 
 method of ornamenting frosted glass 
 for those who cannot draw is to choose 
 some pretty pattern of lace curtains, 
 lay it smoothly on thin paper, and 
 with a pencil trace the outlines. Then, 
 after making as many layers as you re- 
 quire patterns, cut out the designs at 
 one time through the several layers of 
 the paper with a pair of sharp-pointed 
 scissors. Fasten the patterns with 
 tacks to the frame around each pane of 
 glass you wish to decorate. Tie up a 
 piece of putty in a piece of thin muslin, 
 leaving enough of the latter to hold 
 instead of a handle. With this dabble 
 all over that part of the glass which 
 the pattern leaves bare. When the 
 putty on the glass has dried, remove 
 the paper and varnish the glass. 
 
 To Transfer Photographs to Glass. 
 Separate the paper print from the back- 
 ground by steaming it, dry thoroughly 
 and, having given the warmed glass 
 an even coating of balsam or negative 
 varnish, place the face of the print on 
 the surface thus prepared. Smooth it 
 out and let it stand in a cool place until 
 the varnish has hardened. Then apply 
 water, and with a soft piece of gum 
 rubber rub off the paper so as to leave 
 the photographic image on the var- 
 nished glass. 
 
 Platinizing Glass. In order to suc- 
 ceed in coating porcelain or glass with 
 a perfectly faultless film of platinum 
 of the brilliancy of silver it is indis- 
 pensable to make use of a perfectly dry 
 chloride of platinum, as free from acid 
 as possible. To that end pour some oil 
 of rosemary over the perfectly dry 
 chloride of platinum in a small porce- 
 lain mortar and knead it up with the 
 pestle, renewing the oil about three 
 times; and continue this operation 
 until there is produced from the 
 brownish-red chloride a black plastic 
 mass, wherein no particles of undecom- 
 posed chloride of platinum can be 
 found. The oil of rosemary assumes 
 
 hereby a more or less yellow color, 
 in consequence of partially taking up 
 chlorine from the chloride of platinum. 
 When the whole of the chloride of 
 platinum is thus reduced, and after 
 pouring the oil of rosemary off, rub it 
 up well with the pestle with about five 
 times its weight of oil of lavender 
 until it has become a perfectly homoge- 
 neous, thin fluid. Then after leaving 
 it to stand for half an hour or so ap- 
 ply the mass as uniformly as may be 
 and in the thinnest possible layer to 
 the object of porcelain, earthenware, or 
 glass by means of a soft, delicate brush. 
 The thinner the coat of the application 
 the more brilliant the film of platinum. 
 All that is required further is to subject 
 the articles for a few minutes to a very 
 low, scarcely perceptible red heat, 
 either in a muffle or in the flame of 
 a Bunseu's gas-blowpipe used with cau- 
 tion. The articles receive from this 
 baking a beautiful lustre as brilliant 
 as silver. If, by an oversight, the coat- 
 ing of platinum upon the articles has 
 turned out faulty, or if breakages 
 occur during the baking, every trace 
 of the metal can be recovered from the 
 objects. Nothing more is required 
 than to pour common hydrochloric 
 acid over them and then touch them 
 with a zinc rod. In consequence of 
 the hydrogen evolved, both at the 
 upper and lower surface of the film of 
 platinum which acts as the negative 
 pole, the shining metallic coating in- 
 stantly peels off in the form of ex- 
 tremely thin leaves from the base of 
 porcelain or gl#ss and, notwithstanding 
 the specific gravity of the metal, these 
 ascend partially and float on the sur- 
 face of the acid. On separating the 
 hydrochloric acid by the use of a filter 
 the whole of the platinum is recovered. 
 One should prepare only as much of 
 the platinizing fluid as is required for 
 immediate use, as it loses in efficiency 
 by keeping. 
 
 Toughened Glass. In this process 
 the red-hot glass is dipped into a warm 
 bath consisting of water and starch, or 
 gum kept at 212 F. It is taken out 
 again when the red glow has almost 
 gone, and is then allowed to cool in an 
 oven kept at a slightly lower tempera- 
 ture than the glass. Any article of 
 glass can be treated by this method, 
 
HORN-COMBS. LUBRICANTS. BLACKING, ETC. 
 
 435 
 
 and the glass can be cut by a diamond 
 or ground, etc., with sand, and is quite 
 as tough as glass prepared by the "oil 
 process." 
 
 HORN-COMBS, MANUFACTURE OF. 
 
 The first operation is to cut the horn 
 in such a manner that when opened it 
 shall be of rectangular shape. This 
 cutting involves the loss of several large 
 pieces and also of the tips so far as 
 comb-making is concerned ; but the 
 pieces are sold to manufacturers of 
 other commodities, so that the total 
 loss is comparatively small. To assist 
 the action of the knife the horn is 
 heated to a certain degree over a fire, 
 by the side of which the operative sits. 
 When cut the horn is often softened 
 and opened by tongs, and placed be- 
 tween screw-plates, wherein, under the 
 influence of a strong pressure, the 
 pieces are flattened out. It is a charac- 
 teristic of horn to remain when cold 
 just as it is shaped when warm ; so 
 that, when the pieces are removed 
 from the screw-plates, they do not 
 warp or curl up again. Such pieces as 
 are intended^ to be used for imitation 
 tortoise-shell are subjected to an enor- 
 mous pressure between heated and oiled 
 iron plates. This heavy pressure, how- 
 ever, weakens the horn and renders it 
 liable to split. Omitting the drying 
 process, the next operation is to cut the 
 pieces into suitable sizes and shapes for 
 combs; and, after that, the teeth are 
 cut. Originally this was done by 
 hand ; now it is done by circular saws, 
 some of whi<?h are so fine and thin as to 
 cut from 70 to 80 teeth per lineal inch. 
 They revolve at a very rapid rate, but, 
 instead of travelling up to the horn, the 
 horn travels up to the saw. After each 
 cut the horn is automatically moved 
 forward the exact breadth of a tooth, 
 and it is possible to arrange that a fine 
 or a coarse tooth shall be cut at pleas- 
 ure. 
 
 There is a second method of cutting 
 the teeth by which a pair of combs is 
 made from a single plate of horn; what 
 is cut out to form the tooth of one comb 
 being utilized to form the tooth of the 
 second comb, which lies immediately 
 opposite to the first. This may be un- 
 
 derstood by dovetailing two combs into 
 each other. The two end teeth, being 
 thicker than the others, show a gap 
 when the two combs are separated ; but 
 a little warming and a slight bending 
 make that unsightliness disappear. 
 The cutting in this case is done by a 
 pair of chisels, which travel fast or 
 slow, as may be required, according to 
 the character of the teeth to be cut, each 
 chisel descending alternately. 
 
 After the tooth-cutting, the combs 
 are next thinned or tapered down to 
 their outer edges. This is done on 
 grindstones ; and in due succession the 
 teeth are rounded, pointed, or bevelled, 
 as the case may require, by a special 
 kind of file or rasp. If it is necessary 
 to treat the horn to make it an imita- 
 tion of tortoise-shell, the object is ef- 
 fected by first applying dilute nitric 
 acid, which imparts a light yellow 
 tinge, and afterwards by dropping over 
 certain spots a composition containing 
 caustic soda, litharge, and dragon's- 
 blood. After some time the composi- 
 tion is washed off, but the spots beneath 
 it are found to be slightly swollen up, 
 and stained a deep orange tinge. It 
 then only remains to polish the combs, 
 whether they are in plain horn or in 
 imitation tortoise-shell. This is done 
 by first sandpapering to get a smooth 
 surface, then buffing on leather wheels, 
 and finally polishing on wheels made 
 up of circular pieces of calico with 
 frayed edges, which, though soft in 
 themselves, do the work of polishing 
 very well when rapidly revolved. 
 
 LUBRICANTS, BLACKING. ETC. 
 
 Belt Grease. To prevent belts from 
 slipping from the pulley the following 
 preparation is highly recommended : 
 Prepare a soap by boiling 9 parts of 
 linseed oil with 4 parts of bolted 
 litharge, with an addition of a sjmall 
 quantity of water, until a sample taken 
 from the boiler shows the consistency 
 of plaster. This is ascertained by al- 
 lowing a few drops of the boiling mass 
 to fall into cold water, and testing with 
 the thumb and forefinger whether the 
 mass is still smeary or can be twisted 
 into a small ball. If the latter is the 
 case, it is taken from the fire, allowed 
 
436 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 to cool somewhat, and sufficient of a 
 mixture of equal parts of rape-seed oil 
 and oil of turpentine or petroleum is 
 added to make a mass of the thickness 
 of cream. 
 
 Caoutchouc Lubricant for Driving- 
 belts. One-half pound of rubber in small 
 pieces and J pint of oil of turpentine 
 are brought into an iron boiler, tightly 
 covered with a lid, and gently digested 
 over a coal fire, until the rubber is 
 melted. Then add 14 ounces of rosin, 
 stir thoroughly, melt again, and add in 
 the same manner 14 ounces of yellow 
 wax. Stir the mass occasionally while 
 melting. Next heat in a large pot 3 
 pounds of fish oil and i pound of tal- 
 low until the tallow is melted, and 
 then add with constant stirring the first 
 mixture, while still hot. Continue 
 stirring until the mass solidifies. For 
 use, the lubricant is applied with a 
 brush to both sides of old, cracked 
 belts, in the sun or a warm room, and 
 allowed to dry. The durability of new 
 or good belts is much increased by an 
 occasional application, while running, 
 of a small quantity of the lubricant. 
 Instead of caoutchouc, old rubber 
 waste can also be employed, but it 
 must first be boiled with soda-lye for 
 to i hour, and instead of i pound 
 about | pound must be used. 
 
 Harness Grease. Ammonia soap 4 
 parts, palm oil 1 part, ordinary hard 
 soap 3 parts, solution of tannin (9 to 16 
 parts of tannin in 4 of water) 1$ parts. 
 Melt the oil and soap together, add the 
 ammonia soap, then the tannin solu- 
 tion, and stir thoroughly. The prepa- 
 ration will keep for some time if kept 
 in stone bottles well corked. In greas- 
 ing, no more grease should be used than 
 the leather will absorb. 
 
 The ammonia soap used in the prep- 
 aration is made by heating oleic acid 
 to the boiling point and adding sesqui- 
 carbonate of ammonium until the odor 
 of ammonia no longer disappears. 
 
 Harness Polish. Four ounces of 
 glue, li pints of vinegar, 2 ounces of 
 gum-Arabic, i pint of black ink, and 2 
 drachms of isinglass. Break the glue 
 in pieces, put it in a basin, and pour 
 over it about 1 pint of the vinegar; let 
 it stand until it becomes perfectly soft. 
 Put the gum-Arabic in another vessel, 
 with the iiik, until it is entirely dis- 
 
 solved ; melt the isinglass in as much 
 water as will cover it, which may be 
 easily done by placing the cup contain- 
 ing it near the nre about an hour before 
 it is wanted for use. To mix them, 
 pour the remaining vinegar with the 
 softened glue into a dish over a mod- 
 erate fire, stirring it until it is en- 
 tirely dissolved, being careful not to let 
 it reach the boiling point, that it may 
 not burn the bottom, about 182 F. 
 being the best heat. Next add the 
 gum; let it arrive at about the same 
 heat, and then add the isinglass. Take 
 from the fire and pour it off for use. 
 
 To use it put as much as required in 
 a saucer, heat sufficiently to make it 
 fluid, and apply a thin coat with a dry 
 sponge. If the article is dried quickly, 
 either in the sun or by the fire, it will 
 show the better polish. 
 
 Thurston's Machine for Testing Lu- 
 bricating Oils. Prof. R. H. Thurston, 
 whose investigations on this subject 
 are of much importance, has devised 
 several machines for the determination 
 of the value of lubricating oils. The 
 form shown in Fig.75 is designed for test- 
 ing oils used in railway service, and for 
 all other purposes where it is important 
 to reduce to a minimum the friction of 
 ressures. 
 :etermine 
 
 which is the best and consequently the 
 cheapest oil for lubricating purposes, 
 a matter of great importance in respect 
 to the question of the economical use 
 of power. The principle of the ma- 
 chine will appear from the following 
 description, viz. : It comprises a spindle 
 revolved in horizontal bearings by a 
 belt from the main shaft of the work- 
 shop. On the overhanging end of this 
 spindle is formed a journal, from which 
 is hung a heavily-weighted rod. The 
 two halves of the bearings in this rod 
 by which it hangs on the journal are 
 pressed down upon the journal with any 
 desired pressure by means of a spiral 
 spring placed in the centre of the rod. 
 The weight of this pendulum prevents 
 it revolving along with the spindle, but 
 the friction at the journal deflects the 
 pendulum from the vertical through an 
 angle whose line is a measure of the 
 frictional effort. There is also inserted 
 in the bearings a thermometer, by 
 which the effect of the friction in 
 
 bearing surfaces under heavy pt 
 With its use it is possible to de 
 
LUBRICANTS, BLACKING, ETC. 
 
 437 
 
 increasing the temperature is ob- 
 served. 
 
 With this machine Prof. Thurston 
 has obtained extremely interesting re- 
 
 in the form of the machine here 
 shown, the journal, which is master 
 car-builders' standard, 3 inches diam- 
 eter, is a hardened steel sleeve, ground 
 
 Fig. 75. 
 
 salts regarding the variation of the co- 
 efficient of friction with temperature, 
 pressure, and velocity of rubbing. 
 
 truly cylindrical. The boxes in wnich 
 this journal runs are of phosphor- 
 bronze, and are designed for internal 
 
438 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 water circulation. A late improvemen 
 includes a thin lining of phosphor- 
 bronze or other metal ordinarily used, 
 which can be accurately weighed before 
 and after a test, determining the per- 
 centage of wear for any given mileage. 
 By being made interchangeable these 
 linings can be renewed at any time, or 
 special linings of any other metal or 
 alloy may be inserted, using the same 
 water brasses. 
 
 Pressures up to 9000 pounds are ob- 
 tained by the use of a heavy helical 
 spring secured within a 4-inch wrought- 
 iron pendulum tube. By a convenient 
 taper-key adjustment (not shown in the 
 cut) the pressure may be easily and 
 quickly relieved for removal of the 
 pendulum and brasses from the journal, 
 without release of pressure of the spring 
 within the tube. 
 
 The standard boxes may be replaced 
 by the ordinary brasses used in regular 
 railway service if desired, thus imitat- 
 ing the actual conditions of practice. 
 The graduated arc on which the fric- 
 tion is indicated is conveniently placed 
 above the pendulum. The standard 
 thermometer used is graduated from 
 40 to 350 F. A positive automatic 
 revolution-counter which reads up to 
 one million is attached, enabling the 
 experimenter to determine the compar- 
 ative mileage run. The apparatus may 
 be speeded to correspond to the rates 
 usual for trains by suitable provision 
 of counter-shaft and cone pulleys. This 
 machine, including the counter-shaft, 
 weighs 1125 pounds, and is manufact- 
 ured by the Pratt & Whitney Company 
 of Hartford, Conn. (W.) 
 
 Lubricants. Admixtures of min- 
 eral oil with animal oil lessen the 
 liability of the latter to spontaneous 
 combustion. A series of experiments, 
 which were made to test the inflamma- 
 bility of such mixtures, by saturating 
 balls of cotton waste with oil and meas- 
 uring the increase in temperature, 
 showed the following results: With 
 pure lard oil the temperature increased 
 to 428 F. in 4 hours ; with pureneat's- 
 foot oil to 446 F. in 6 hours, and in i 
 hour more the cotton was converted 
 into glowing coal. With a mixture of 
 50 per cent, of pure mineral oil and 50 
 per cent, of neat's-foot oil the temper- 
 ature did not increase to over 214 F. 
 
 in 7 hours. A mixture of 75 per cent, 
 of neat's-foot oil and 25 per cent, of 
 mineral oil became heated to about 
 425 F. in 6i hours, and gave off an 
 odor of burning. With 67 per cent, of 
 neat's-foot oil and 33 per cent, of min- 
 eral oil the highest temperature at- 
 tained was 214 F. and the cotton 
 showed no trace of charring. Accord- 
 ing to these experiments it would seem 
 that, if it is desired to give mineral oil 
 greater tenacity and consistency for 
 certain purposes, a mixture of 67 per 
 cent, of neat's-foot oil and 33 per cent, 
 of mineral can be considered as en- 
 tirely safe. 
 
 Purification of Lubricants after Use. 
 Dissolve 2i parts by weight ot potas- 
 sium chromate, 2 parts of calcined soda, 
 2i parts potassium chloride, and 5 parts 
 of common salt in a wooden vat. Bring 
 into this 1000 parts of the oil to be 
 purified previously heated to about 
 167 F., and after stirring thoroughly 
 for 10 to 15 minutes let it stand quietly 
 8 to 10 days in a warm place. At the 
 end of the time draw the clear oil off 
 by means of a cock on the vat. 
 
 Used lubricants can also be purified 
 in the following manner: Heat 1000 
 parts by weight of the oil to be purified 
 to about 167 F. and add with con- 
 stant stirring a mixture of 10 parts by 
 weight of concentrated sulphuric acid 
 and the same quantity of 96 per cent, 
 alcohol. After 24 to 48 hours rest the 
 oil is drawn off from the sediment and, 
 to remove all traces of sulphuric acid, 
 washed with boiling water. 
 
 New Receipts for Blacking. No. 1. 
 Melt 90 parts by weight of beeswax, 30 
 of spermaceti, 350 of oil of turpentine, 
 and 20 of asphaltum lacquer, and mix 
 with 10 parts by weight of borax 20 of 
 lampblack, 10 of Berlin blue, and 5 of 
 nitro-benzole. 
 
 No. 2. Dissolve 150 parts of wax and 
 15 of tallow in a boiling mixture of 
 200 parts of linseed oil, 20 of litharge, 
 and 100 of molasses. Heat to 230 to 
 248 F. with an addition of 100 parts 
 of lampblack. When cold dilute with 
 280 parts of linseed oil and mix with a 
 solution of 5 parts of gum-lac and 2 of 
 aniline violet in 25 of alcohol. 
 
 No. 3. Mix intimately 6 parts of fine 
 jone-black, 28 of syrup, 4 of sugar, 3 
 of train oil, and 1 of sulphuric acid, 
 
METAL INDUSTRY. 
 
 439 
 
 and allow the mixture to stand 8 hours. 
 Then add with constant stirring 4 
 parts of decoction of tan, 18 of bone- 
 black, and 3 of sulphuric acid, and 
 pour into boxes, 
 
 No. 4. Boil 1 part of extract of log- 
 wood, 30 of gall-nuts coarsely pow- 
 dered with 25 of their combined weight 
 of strong vinegar. Filter the fluid and 
 after adding 8 parts of greer. vitriol 
 allow it to settle 24 hours. Then draw 
 off the clear liquid and mix it with 
 constant stirring with 8 parts of gum, 
 100 of sugar, and 80 of syrup. Strain 
 and add 50 parts of spirit of wine, 40 
 of shellac solution, and 40 of pulver- 
 ized indigo. 
 
 METAL INDUSTRY. 
 
 Hardening Composition for Steel. 
 To the ordinary hardening composition 
 consisting of 4f quarts of fish oil, 2 
 pounds of beef suet, and i pound of 
 wax, it is recommended to add 1 pound 
 of rosin. Another composition consists 
 of 95 quarts of spermaceti oil, 20 pounds 
 of melted tallow, 4^ quarts of neat's- 
 foot oil, 1 pound of pitch, and 3 pounds 
 of rosin. After melting the last two 
 together the other ingredients are 
 added and the mass is heated in an iron 
 vessel until all moisture is driven out 
 and the heated mass ignites from a 
 burning chip of wood held over it; the 
 flame is at once extinguished by a close- 
 fitting lid. In using either of the 
 methods for saw blades they are first 
 heated in a suitable furnace and then 
 placed vertically, teeth upward, in 
 troughs filled with the mixture. After 
 sufficient cooling they are taken out 
 and wiped with a piece of leather so 
 that only a slight film of fat remains. 
 They are then placed flat over a coal 
 fire until the coating of fat ignites. 
 
 point," consists simply of a grain of 
 iridium soldered on the point of the 
 pen, which is afterwards sawed in two 
 to make the two nibs and ground 
 into proper shape. 
 
 For preparing larger pieces of irid- 
 ium than found in nature for making 
 points for the Mackinnon stylographic 
 pen, Mr. John Holland, of Cincinnati, 
 has devised the following ingenious 
 process : The ore is heated in a Hessian 
 crucible to a white heat, and after add- 
 ing phosphorus the heating is continued 
 for a few minutes. In this manner a 
 perfect fusion of the metal is obtained 
 which can be poured out and cast into 
 any desired shape. The material is 
 about as hard as the natural grains of 
 iridium, and in fact seems to have all 
 the properties of the metal itself. 
 
 For making points for the Mackinnon 
 pen, the fused metal is poured between 
 two iron plates which are kept apart a 
 proper distance so as to make a sheet 
 of iridium of the desired thickness. 
 To obtain very compact castings, the 
 plates are brought suddenly together, 
 on the plan of a closed ingot with a 
 hinge, so that as the metal cools it is 
 subjected to great pressure. The sheets 
 required for the Mackinnon pen are 
 about aV inch in thickness, and are cut 
 up into small irregular pieces, which 
 are soldered on a strip of bronze and 
 ground down to a flat surface upon a 
 copper lap. Corundum or diamond 
 dust mixed with oil is applied to 
 the flat surface of the lap by means 
 of a flat steel instrument, upon which 
 pressure is applied in order to force the 
 corundum or diamond dust into the 
 copper, thereby making a cutting sur- 
 face. The lap makes about 800 to 1000 
 revolutions per minute. After the 
 pieces are ground to a surface they are 
 first countersunk by means of a dia- 
 mond drill making about 900 
 
 which may burn as freely as required ! lutions per minute. After counter 
 
 for great hardness. Screws or other sinking the iridium is finally pierced 
 
 , by means of a copper wire held by a 
 
 articles which are to receive a less de- 
 gree oi hardness are dipped into the 
 hot mixture and brought to a red heat. 
 Iridium, its Preparation and Use. 
 With the exception of alloying with 
 platinum the principal use of iridium 
 
 suitable drilling apparatus, which 
 makes about 3500 revolutions per min- 
 ute. Some corundum or diamond 
 dust and oil are put in the countersunk 
 opening in the iridium and then it is 
 
 up to the present time has been for | held up against the piece of revolving 
 
 pointing gold pens. The iridosmine, copper. 
 
 called by the manufacturers " diamond The holes having been drilled, the 
 
440 
 
 TECIINO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 strips of bronze to which the pieces of 
 iridium were soldered are dissolved by 
 means of nitric acid, and the pieces of 
 iridium are then soldered in proper 
 position to the end of a MacKinnon 
 pen. The iridium is then ground to a 
 proper shape upon an apparatus con- 
 sisting of three or more copper cylinders 
 on a common spindie making about 
 3500 revolutions per minute. The 
 operation of sawing the iridium is 
 carried on by means of a copper disk 
 from 4 to 8 inches in diameter, made of 
 soft thin sheet-copper, held between 
 two clamps and placed on a spindle re- 
 volving at the rate of about 2500 
 revolutions per minute. It revolves in 
 a box which contains corundum or dia- 
 mond dust and cotton-seed oil. 
 
 Phosphor-iridium, as this nretal may 
 be called, possesses some very remark- 
 able properties. It is as hard, if not 
 harder, than iridosmine from which it is 
 prepared. It is somewhat lighter, 
 owing to its percentage of phosphorus 
 and increase of volume. It is homo- 
 geneous and easy to polish, and forms 
 some alloys impossible to prepare in 
 any other manner. It combines with 
 small quantities of silver and forms with 
 it the most flexible and resisting alloy 
 of silver. With gold or tin no alloy 
 has thus far been obtained. Added in 
 small quantities to copper it furnishes 
 a metal possessing very small resistance 
 to friction, and especially adapted for 
 articles subjected to great pressure. 
 This alloy seems to possess more than 
 any other metal the power of retaining 
 lubricants. With iron, nickel, cobalt, 
 and platinum, phosphor-indium forms 
 combinations in all proportions, which 
 are of great importance. With iron an 
 alloy is obtained which retains the 
 properties of phosphor-iridium, al- 
 though its hardness decreases with a 
 larger addition of iron. The alloy is 
 slightly magnetic, and is not attacked 
 by acids and alkalies, and the best file 
 produces no effect upon it even if it con- 
 tains as much as 50 per cent, of iron. 
 With more than 50 per cent, of iron the 
 power of resistance decreases gradually 
 and the nature of the metal approaches 
 that of iron. 
 
 In casting phosphor-iridium it is 
 observed that the mould fills up better 
 after a second and third fusion. 
 
 The most difficult objects are obtained 
 with the aid of open or closed iron 01 
 steel moulds, which are previously 
 heated to prevent too rapid cooling. 
 By fusing the phosphor-iridium several 
 times, a part of the phosphorus evapo- 
 rates, and the melting point becomes 
 higher. If heating is continued too 
 long, the metal does not fuse, and phos- 
 phorus must be added in order to give 
 it its former properties. The process 
 of removing the phosphorus after cast- 
 ing is as follows: The metal to be de-. 
 phosphorized is placed upon a perfo- 
 rated fire-resistant bed upon the bot- 
 tom of the crucible and surrounded 
 with powdered lime, and then heated 
 for some time to a red heat. The phos- 
 phorus combines with the lime and 
 forms a green slag which collects upon 
 the bottom of the crucible. After some 
 time the crucible is taken from the fire 
 and the metal, after cooling, is once 
 more treated in the same manner iu 
 another crucible. The temperature is 
 gradually raised until the metal is com- 
 pletely dephosphorized. 
 
 Cowles' Electric Furnace. The 
 Cowles Brothers, of Cleveland, Ohio, 
 have lately invented a process of reduc- 
 ing the refracting ores of many metals 
 by electrical means, which promises to 
 become very important in the arts. 
 They construct a rectangular box of 
 fire-resisting material, lined with a 
 mixture of fine charcoal and lirne. 
 It has a removable cover, which is 
 perforated with openings to allow the 
 escape of gases evolved. In the sides 
 of this furnace the electrodes 2 plates 
 of gas carbon are let in, by means 
 of which the current of a powerful 
 dynamo-electric machine is introduced. 
 The charge consists of a mixture of the 
 coarsely crushed ore and coke fragments. 
 The es'sential feature of the process 
 consists, therefore, in employing in 
 the furnace a substance like carbon 
 whose high resistance to the passage of 
 the current causes the production of a 
 prodigiously high temperature, and 
 which at the same time is capable of 
 exercising a powerful reducing action 
 on the ore. With such an arrangement 
 of apparatus, and by the use of a power- 
 ful electric current, the inventors have 
 succeeded in reducing aluminium from 
 corundum, boron from boracic acid, 
 
METAL INDUSTRY. 
 
 441 
 
 and silicium from quartz. They have 
 greatly cheapened the cost of alumin- 
 ium-bronzes and brasses, and, it is 
 expected, will be able to produce pure 
 aluminium in quantity at much lower 
 prices than it has heretofore been possi- 
 ble to produce it. (W.) 
 
 Refining Nickel (Fleitmann's Pro- 
 cess.} Dr. Fleitmann, of Iserlohn, has 
 devised a very simple and successful 
 process of refining and toughening 
 nickel, which is now very largely used. 
 It produces a very homogeneous metal 
 from which castings may be made with 
 much less liability to the presence of 
 blow-holes than with other methods. 
 Fleitrnann's procedure consists in add- 
 ing to the molten charge, in the pot, 
 when ready to pour, a very small quan- 
 tity of magnesium. The magnesium is 
 added in small quantities at a time and 
 stirred into the charge. About one 
 ounce of magnesium is found to be suf- 
 ficient for purify ing 60 pounds of nickel. 
 The theory of the operation is that the 
 magnesium reduces the occluded car- 
 bonic oxide, uniting with its oxygen 
 to form magnesia, while carbon is 
 separated in the form of graphite. 
 The nickel refined by this method is 
 said to become remarkably tough and 
 malleable, and may be rolled into 
 sheets and drawn into wire. Cast 
 plates (intended for anodes in nickel- 
 plating), after reheating, can be readily 
 rolled down to the required thick- 
 ness, which greatly improves them for 
 plating purposes, as they dissolve 
 with greater uniformity in the plating- 
 bath. Nickel so heated may be rolled 
 into sheets as thin as paper, and has 
 been successfully welded upon iron and 
 steel plates. (W.) 
 
 Wrouyht-iron (or Mitis) Castings. 
 Ostberg, a Swedish inventor, has lately 
 devised an ingenious process of making 
 castings (clean and sharp) of wrought- 
 iron, by taking advantage of the ob- 
 servation which he made that the ad- 
 dition of an extremely small quantity 
 of aluminium to vvrought-iron, kept at 
 a white heat in a crucible, forms a 
 combination which has a much lower 
 point of fusion than wrought-iron. 
 
 When wrought-iron is heated in cru- 
 cibles until it has become pasty, the 
 aluminium in the form of an alloy of 
 iron and aluminium is introduced. 
 
 The mass almost instantly becomes 
 thinly fluid the fusion point of the 
 resulting metal being lowered about 
 500 F. The surplus heat which it 
 now contains, beyond that required for 
 fusion, is sufficient to keep it thoroughly 
 fluid during the operation of casting. 
 The addition of aluminium required to 
 produce this remarkable effect does not 
 exceed & of one per cent. The process 
 bids fair to become valuable. ( W.) 
 
 Mechanically Hardened Steel. A bar 
 of steel heated to a cherry-red is placed 
 in a space enclosing it accurately and 
 subjected to an enormous pressure by 
 means of a hydraulic press. It is then 
 allowed to cool under pressure, when 
 it will be found that the steel has ac- 
 quired a high degree of hardness and is 
 very much inclined to become strongly 
 magnetic. Magnets prepared accord- 
 ing to this method possess an extraor- 
 dinary power of resistance, and are al- 
 ready used for telephones. Steel har- 
 dened by pressure is also very suitable 
 for edge tools, and finally the degree 
 of hardness can be modified at pleasure 
 by regulating the pressure. 
 
 New Solder for Metal, Glass, and Por~ 
 celain. A soft alloy which adheres to 
 metal, glass, and porcelain, and can be 
 used in the same manner as soft solder, 
 is prepared from finely-powdered cop- 
 per copper dust which is obtained by 
 shaking a solution of blue vitriol with 
 granulated tin. The solution becomes 
 considerably heated, and a fine* brown 
 powder is precipitated. Of this copper 
 dust, 20, 30, or 36 parts by weight, ac- 
 cording to the desired hardness of the 
 solder, are mixed in a cast-iron or por- 
 celain mortar with sulphuric acid of 
 1.85 specific gravity to the consistency 
 of paste, and 70 parts of mercury added 
 with constant stirring. 
 
 When the amalgam is thoroughly 
 mixed, it is carefully washed with 
 water to remove all traces of acid, and 
 then cooled off. In 10 to 12 hours the 
 mass becomes harder than tin. When 
 the solder is to be used, it is heated to 
 1300 F., and can be kneaded like wax 
 in an iron mortar. In this plastic con- 
 dition it is applied to the surfaces to be 
 joined and the latter pressed together. 
 After cooling, the solder is hard and 
 adheres very firmly. 
 
 Oxidized Silver. Solution of penta- 
 
442 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 sulphide of potassium (Hver-of-sulphur 
 of the shops) is generally used for ox- 
 idizi ng silver. Li ver-of-sulphur is pre- 
 pared by intimately mixing and heat- 
 ing together 2 parts of thoroughly 
 dried potash and 1 part of sulphur 
 powder. Dissolve 2 to 3 drachms of the 
 compound in If pints of water, and 
 bring the liquid to a temperature of 
 from 155 to 175 F., when it is ready 
 for use. Silver objects, previously freed 
 from dust and grease with soda-lye and 
 thorough rinsing in water, plunged in 
 this bath are instantly covered with an 
 iridescent film of silver sulphide which 
 in a few seconds more becomes blue- 
 black. The objects are then removed, 
 rinsed off in plenty of fresh water, 
 scratch-brushed, and, if necessary, pol- 
 ished. It is advisable to use the ox- 
 idizing liquid as soon as prepared. 
 After it has been used for some time, 
 the deposit becomes dull and gray and 
 lacking in adherence. There is danger 
 in using the alkaline liquid too strong ; 
 the coating will form quicker, but does 
 not adhere as well. 
 
 The process is very readily executed 
 upon pure silver, but with articles of 
 cupriferous silver the result is not 
 quite so beautiful, and it is therefore 
 advisable to subject them to blanching 
 before oxidizing. 
 
 A velvety-black color is obtained by 
 dipping the article previous to oxidiz- 
 ing in solution of mercurous nitrate, by 
 which it becomes coated with a thin 
 film of mercury, which forms a silver 
 amalgam with the silver. When 
 brought into the li ver-of-sulphur solu- 
 tion a mixture of mercury sulphide 
 and silver sulphide is.forme'd which is 
 much darker than silver sulphide by 
 itself. By dipping the oxidized article 
 in a liquid composed of 10 parts of blue 
 vitriol, 5 of sal-ammoniac, and 100 of 
 vinegar, the places of the silver left 
 bright acquire a warm, brown shade. 
 
 Another method of oxidation is ef- 
 fected by dipping the article in diluted 
 chlorine water, in chloride of lime so- 
 lution, or in eau de Javelle. The action 
 of these baths is based upon the forma- 
 tion of a thin layer of silver chloride 
 which becomes dark on exposure to 
 light. 
 
 Beautiful effects and tasty colored 
 designs can be produced by combining 
 
 various shades of oxidation with the 
 bright or gilded silver surface. By ex- 
 ecuting the design, for example, witli 
 asphalt lacquer, and placing the arti- 
 
 s in the liver-of-sulphur solution, 
 only the places left free become oxid- 
 ized, and the result, after removing the 
 asphalt lacquer with oil of turpentine, 
 will be a white design upon a dark 
 round. Dark designs upon a white 
 ground are executed with ink prepared 
 by thickening concentrated liver-of- 
 sulphur solution by the addition of 
 gum-Arabic solution. When the de- 
 signs are dry, the article is heated so 
 that the gum cracks off or can be re- 
 moved by a gentle tap. Black and 
 light designs upon a dark gray ground 
 are carried out by executing the first 
 with asphalt solution and the latter 
 with ink composed of mercurous nitrate 
 and gum-Arabic solution, and dipping 
 the article in the liver-of-sulphur bath. 
 
 A deep black oxidized surface may 
 be obtained directly on copper, properly 
 cleansed, by immersion in a concen- 
 trated solution of hydrous carbonate of 
 copper, either cold or tepid. The cop- 
 per surface at once becomes coated with 
 a fine black deposit, which will stand 
 subsequent treatment very well. A 
 fine oxidized surface may also be pro- 
 duced by depositing on the surface of 
 the articles, or on certain portions 
 thereof, a film of metallic platinum. 
 For this purpose prepare a solution of 
 platinic chloride in sulphuric ether or 
 alcohol, and apply the solution with a 
 brush to the parts of the surface to be 
 oxidized. The ether or spirit speedily 
 evaporates, leaving behind a film of 
 metallic platinum adhering to the sur- 
 face of the object, which film, accord- 
 ing to its thickness, imparts either a 
 steel-gray or nearly black lustre to the 
 surface. A hot aqueous solution of 
 platinic chloride 'will give the same 
 results. 
 
 Phospliorizing Bronze or Brass. 
 Bronze or brass wire is placed for some 
 time in a solution of to 5 per 
 cent, of phosphorus dissolved in ether, 
 carbon di-sulphide, or olive oil, 5 to 10 
 per cent, of sulphuric acid and 85 to 95 
 per cent, of water. The metal takes up 
 phosphorus. The wire is then drawn 
 a size finer and introduced into a 
 closed retort; the bottom is covered 
 
METAL INDUSTRY. 
 
 443 
 
 with a thin layer of phosphorus so that i 
 the resulting vapors come in contact j 
 with the wire. After this the wire is [ 
 packed in wood-charcoal, and ignited 
 and heated until it softens and can be 
 drawn a size still smaller. This treat- 
 ment is alternately repeated until the 
 wire has been reduced to the desired 
 fineness. Wire prepared in this man- 
 ner is claimed to be more indestructi- 
 ble, takes a higher polish, and is less 
 subject to corrosion. 
 
 Prevention of Riisting-in of Screivs. 
 The screws in machines exposed to 
 heat and moist air soon rust in even if 
 oil is used, which makes the taking 
 apart of a machine a difficult task. By 
 dipping the screws before putting them 
 in place in a thin paste of graphite and 
 oil they can be removed without diffi- 
 culty even after several years. 
 
 To Mark Tools with a Name. Protect 
 the tool with a thin layer of wax or 
 hard tallow, by coating the heated 
 steel with wax and allowing it to cool. 
 When the wax is hard the name is 
 written in it with a pointed instrument, 
 so that each stroke penetrates to the 
 steel. Then pour some nitric acid over 
 the waxed surface, let it stand for a 
 short time, and after washing off the 
 acid with water heat the metal until 
 the wax melts and wipe it dry. The 
 name will appear engraved in the 
 steel. 
 
 Utilization of Nickel Waste. For the 
 utilization of waste from rolled and 
 cast-nickel anodes and of the nickel 
 sand gradually collecting upon the bot- 
 tom of the vats, the following method 
 is recommended : 
 
 Wash the waste repeatedly in clean 
 hot water and then boil in dilute sul- 
 phuric acid (1 part of acid to 4 of water) 
 until water poured upon the waste is 
 no longer clouded by it. Then pour 
 off the liquid and treat 'the waste or sand 
 with concentrated nitric acid. This 
 must be done very carefully and a large 
 porcelain vessel should be used to pre- 
 vent the solution from boiling over. 
 When the solution is sufficiently con- 
 centrated, so that it contains little free j 
 acid, it should be filtered, and slowly 
 evaporated to dryness over the water- 
 bath. The product is nickel nitrate. 
 
 [The nickel nitrate thus' obtained is 
 dissolved in hot distilled water, and the 
 
 solution precipitated with caustic soda 
 carefully and gradually added. The 
 precipitate of hydrated nickel oxide is 
 then carefully filtered and washed, then 
 treated with dilute sulphuric acid with 
 the aid of heat until solution has taken 
 place. The solution is concentrated by 
 evaporation and an excess of concen- 
 trated solution of ammonium sulphate 
 is added. The precipitate is the double 
 sulphate of nickel and ammonium, or 
 Adams' nickel-plating salt, which is 
 
 commonly used for nickel-plating.] 
 
 Zincing Screw Bolts. To free the 
 screw bolts from dirt and grease, place 
 them in an aqueous solution of soda 
 or potash-lye, and for the purpose 
 of stirring and mixing the ingredients 
 and raising the temperature of the bath 
 introduce steam. 
 
 After remaining in the bath a suffi- 
 cient length of time the bolts are rinsed 
 in cold water. They are then placed 
 in a second bath consisting of 5 parts 
 of water and 1 part of hydrochloric 
 acid, to remove rust, which would pre- 
 vent the zinc from firmly adhering to 
 the iron. In this bath the bolts remain 
 until all traces of rust have disappeared, 
 and they show a uniform gray color. 
 The bolts are then dried and placed in 
 a bath of zinc chloride in which the 
 free acid has been neutralized by am- 
 monia. The bolts are then thoroughly 
 dried in a drying-room, care being had 
 to avoid all contact with the atmos- 
 pheric air. This precaution is not used 
 in many shops, but experience has 
 shown that an incomplete drying in the 
 air exerts an injurious influence upon 
 the lower layer of zinc, so that it ad- 
 heres badly and defective places are 
 formed in the coating. For the baths 
 it is best to use wooden vessels, as they 
 are not affected by the acids. 
 
 After treating the bolts in the above 
 manner and drying as thoroughly as 
 possible, they are placed in an iron 
 wire basket and dipped into the melted 
 zinc in a pot of cast or wrought- 
 iron heated by direct firing. One of 
 the greatest inconveniences in the use 
 of such baskets is that the iron forms 
 an alloy with the zinc, and the bas- 
 kets soon wear out, and besides the con- 
 taminated zinc must be replaced by 
 fresh metal. To overcome this evil 
 
444 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 baskets of burnt clay have been re- 
 cently introduced and used with suc- 
 cess. 
 
 It is best to use large crucibles, as 
 practical experience has shown that the 
 zincing turns out better with large 
 quantities of melted zinc. It is advan- 
 tageous to add some tin to the zinc, 
 which increases the whiteness of the 
 coating in the crucible. 
 
 By quickly cooling the bolts in cold 
 
 The bolts, when taken from the bath, 
 are treated in a revolving drum filled 
 with sawdust, fine sand, or iron filings, 
 to remove superficial inequalities and 
 
 unevenness. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS. 
 
 Continuously-working furnace for 
 the Manufacture of Animal Charcoal. 
 
 water a dull, lustreless white color is 
 obtained. To protect the melted metal 
 from constant oxidation some ammo- 
 nium chloride, which forms a good 
 flux, is thrown into the pot after re- 
 moving the oxide layer formed in the 
 commencement; rosin is also used for 
 the same purpose. The time of immer- 
 sion depends on the thickness of the 
 zinc layer desired, and on the quality 
 of the iron. 
 
 77. 
 
 Figs. 70 and 77 represent the furnace. It 
 is provided with an equal number of re- 
 torts of cast-iron and of fire-clay with 
 interspaces for the passage of the heat- 
 ing gases. The retorts are filled with- 
 out the admission of outer air through 
 slides in reservoirs above them. The 
 finished charcoal falls from the retorts 
 into boxes of iron or tin, and from 
 there, when cold, into wagons. By the 
 circulation of the heating gases through 
 
MISCELLANEOUS. 
 
 445 
 
 the hollow spaces a very uniformly 
 burnt product is obtained. The gases 
 pass from the furnace, which is about 8 
 feet wide, 10 feet long, and 7 J feet high, 
 into a receiver and condenser, and, af- 
 ter cooling, into a column with milk 
 of lime. The ammonia is absorbed by 
 sulphuric acid in lead tanks. Two or 
 three men are required for attendance. 
 The furnace has a capacity of 7500 to 
 11,000 pounds of raw material per day, 
 and can be built with or without gas- 
 firing and of any size with 4, 6, 8, and 
 12 retorts for working horn, hoofs, blood 
 for the manufacture of albumen, and 
 any other animal waste, and as no dis- 
 agreeable odors occur can be used in 
 any locality. 
 
 Gil ding and Silvering Leather. Thor- 
 oughly tanned leather free from all 
 fatty substances is soaked in a medium 
 strong bath of caustic soda for a time 
 varying according to its thickness. 
 When taken out it is dried and satu- 
 rated with a solution of icinglass and 
 alum. After drying in the air it is 
 coated once or twice, according to its 
 quality, with a mixture of 2 pounds of 
 collodion and 1 drachm of castor oil, 
 again dried and then treated with a 
 weak solution of caoutchouc in benzine, 
 after which the gilding varnish, pre- 
 pared from old linseed-oil varnish 
 boiled with litharge and Venetian tur- 
 pentine, is applied. When dry so far 
 that it is only slightly sticky the gold 
 or other metal leaf is "laid on, brushed 
 over with a brush, and finally, to pro- 
 tect the gilding, coated with a solution 
 of mastic in alcohol. 
 
 Coating Leaden Water Pipes to Pre- 
 vent Contamination of the Water Sup- 
 ply. To avoid the contamination of 
 drinking water by the lead of the service 
 pipes commonly used it has been pro- 
 posed to coat them on the interior with 
 some chemical substance which will 
 form an insoluble compound with the 
 metal and protect it from the solvent 
 action of the water. Several suggestions 
 to this end have been made. One is to 
 fill the pipes with water slightly acidu- 
 lated with sulphuric acid, which will 
 speedily form a coating of sulphate of 
 lead on the inside surfaces a coating 
 which, being almost absolutely insolu- 
 ble in water, should serve as a very 
 effectual barrier against the action of 
 
 the water on the underlying metal. 
 Another suggestion is to pass through 
 the pipe a solution of an alkaline sul- 
 phide (such as sodium or potassium 
 sulphide), by which a film of insoluble 
 lead sulphide will be formed, which will 
 answer the same purpose of protecting 
 the underlying metal from the action 
 of the water. Ordinarily the only dan- 
 ger to be feared from lead contamina- 
 tion is when the pipes are new and the 
 water that is passed through them con- 
 tains impurities of an organic nature, 
 or when, on the other hand, the water 
 is very pure. In the great majority of 
 cases the interior of the pipes speedily 
 becomes coated with a thin, adhesive 
 film of lead carbonate, which protects 
 the lead very effectually, and the al- 
 leged dangers of poisoning by the use 
 of the lead water pipes have, in our 
 opinion, been greatly exaggerated. 
 
 (W.) 
 
 New Floor Covering. Clean the 
 floor thoroughly, then fill the holes 
 and cracks with paper putty, made by 
 soaking newspapers in a paste made of 
 wheat flour, water, and ground alum, 
 as follows : To 1 pound of flour add 3 
 quarts of water and a table-spoonful of 
 ground alum, and mix thoroughly. 
 The floor is then coated with this paste 
 and a thickness of manilla or hardware 
 paper is put on. If two layers are de- 
 sired a second covering of manilla 
 paper is put on in the same manner, 
 and allowed to dry thoroughly. The 
 manilla paper is then covered with 
 paste, and a layer of wall paper of any 
 style or design desired is put on. After 
 allowing this to thoroughly dry it is 
 covered with two or more coats of 
 sizing, made by dissolving pound 
 of white glue in 2 quarts of hot water. 
 After this is allowed to dry, the surface 
 is given one coat of hard oil-finish var- 
 nish, which comes already prepared. 
 This is allowed to dry thoroughly, 
 when the floor is ready for use. This 
 covering is cheap and durable, makes 
 the floor air-tight, and can be washed 
 or scrubbed. 
 
 Neiv Process of Manufacturing Gold 
 Wall Paper. Dissolve one part of gutta- 
 percha and 2 parts of caoutchouc in 
 5 parts of benzole, and 10 parts of 
 white rosin in 30 parts of benzine, 
 and mix the last solution with the 
 
446 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 first. With the lacquer thus obtained 
 the wall paper is printed in the usual 
 manner, the gold dust strewn upon it 
 and the surplus shaken off. The paper 
 is then quickly dried upon a hot steam - 
 cylinder which effects an intimate 
 union of the gold dust with the lacquer 
 and gives tii3 paper a very high and 
 durable lustre. Such wall paper can 
 be washed. 
 
 Phosphorescent Mixtures. The fol- 
 lowing are approved formulae for 
 phosphorescent mixtures which will 
 produce light of various colors, so that 
 after exposure to bright light all the 
 colors of the rainbow may be shown in 
 the dark. The mixtures must be sealed 
 up in glass tubes and kept in the dark. 
 If exposed for a few seconds to direct 
 sunshine or to the light of burning 
 magnesium and then taken into the 
 dark, they will be luminous for a con- 
 siderable time, sometimes for half an 
 hour. 
 
 No. 1. Pulverized oyster-shells 12 
 parts, flowers of sulphur 4 parts, oxide 
 of zinc 0.5 part. 
 
 No. 2. Pure calcium carbonate 12 
 parts, flowers of sulphur 4 parts, realgar 
 0.5 part. 
 
 No. 3. Strontium nitrate 12 parts, 
 flowers of sulphur 4 parts, sulphide of 
 antimony 0.5 part. 
 
 No. 4. Barium sulphate stirred 
 into a paste with white of an egg 
 and ignited in an open coal fire for 
 1 hour. 
 
 No. 5. Strontium carbonate 12 parts, 
 sulphur 4 parts, oxide of zinc 1 part. 
 
 No. Q. Strontium carbonate 12 parts, 
 sulphur 4 parts, sulphide of antimony 
 0.5 part. 
 
 No. 7. Strontium carbonate 12 parts, 
 sulphur 4 parts, sulphide of barium 
 2.2 parts. 
 
 A"o. 8. Pure calcium carbonate 12 
 parts, sulphur 12 parts. 
 
 All these mixtures, with the ex- 
 ception of No. 4, require to be ignited 
 or exposed to a red heat for \ hour. 
 A little practice will show the temper- 
 ature and time best adapted for their 
 preparation. 
 
 Preparation of Precipitated Chalk for 
 Tooth-powders. Dissolve 1 part of cal- 
 cium chloride in 15 parts of distilled 
 water, filter, and add to the filtrate a 
 previously filtered solution of crystal- 
 
 lized soda in distilled water until a 
 precipitate is no longer formed. 
 
 This fine white precipitate thus formed 
 is prepared chalk. After it has settled 
 on the bottom, pour off the supernatant 
 fluid, moisten the precipitate with a 
 little distilled water and bring it into a 
 funnel provided with filtering paper. 
 Wash the precipitate 6 to 8 times and 
 finally dry it at a moderate heat. 
 
 Precipitated chalk thus prepared is 
 absolutely free from particles of sand, 
 which cannot be said of tooth-powders, 
 prepared as they mostly are with 
 natural chalk. 
 
 Process of Joining Two Pieces of 
 Horn. Heat the pieces of horn before 
 a fire and carefully scrape the edges 
 where they are to be joined until they 
 fit together exactly. Then take a pair 
 of pincers, previously heated quite hot, 
 and, after moistening the edges to be 
 joined, press them together firmly and 
 quickly. If the operation is skilfully 
 performed a perfect joint will result; 
 and after the edges have been made 
 smooth with a fine file and polished 
 with tripoli and water, it will be diffi- 
 cult to tell where the two pieces are 
 joined together. 
 
 To Make Horn Combs Elastic. Place 
 the horn from which the combs are to 
 be made for 12 hours in a mixture of 3 
 parts of nitric acid, 15 parts of white 
 wine, 2 parts of vinegar, and 2 parts of 
 soft water. Then dry it and place it 
 in a bath of 100 parts of warm water 
 and 50 parts of nitric acid. The horn 
 is then dyed and placed for 10 hours in 
 a bath of vinegar and water. 
 
 Combs made from horn thus pre- 
 pared are so soft that they can be trodden 
 upon without breaking. 
 
 Roach and Moth Exterminator. Dis- 
 solve 2 parts of thymol and 2 parts of 
 salicylic acid in 200 parts of alcohol, 
 and perfume the mixture with 1 part 
 of lemon oil. 
 
 This preparation makes no stain and 
 kills the vermin immediately. The 
 odor is not unpleasant and is quickly 
 removed by airing the room. 
 
 Shaving Cream. To make shaving 
 cream that can be used without water 
 melt 20 pounds of lard in a steam-bath 
 at a temperature of 212 F., then let 5 
 pounds of caustic potash-lye of 36 B. 
 run in very slowly during constant 
 
OILS AND FATS. 
 
 447 
 
 stirring with a wooden paddle; when 
 the paste becomes thick, 5 pounds more 
 of lye are added in the same manner. 
 After several hours stirring, the mixt- 
 ure becomes firm and is finished. It 
 is then transferred to a mortar and 
 triturated until the soap becomes per- 
 fectly smooth throughout and assumes 
 a pearly appearance. Attar of almonds 
 is the perfume for almond cream and 
 attar of rose for rose cream. They are 
 dissolved in a little alcohol and added 
 during trituration. 
 
 To Preserve India Rubber Goods 
 from Becoming Hard and Cracking. 
 Dip the goods, according to their size, 
 for a few seconds to some minutes in a 
 bath of melted paraffine of about 212 
 F., and dry them in a room heated to 
 212 F. 
 
 To Render Rubber Hose Odorless. 
 To obviate the disagreeable smell of 
 rubber hose used for gas conductors, 
 etc., it is recommended to rub the hose 
 with a rag dipped in a solution of 
 equal parts of linseed oil and alcohol 
 of 36 per cent., thoroughly shaken to- 
 gether. Stretch the hose moderately 
 and continue the rubbing until the 
 mixture is nearly dry, and repeat the 
 operation three or four times in inter- 
 vals of a few days. By this treatment 
 the hose is made gas-tight and odorless 
 without losing color and elasticity. 
 
 Washing White Straw Hats. Ke- 
 move the hat band and wash the hat 
 with a 5 per cent, solution of citric acid 
 by means of a small sponge. Then 
 rinse with clean water and hang the hat 
 in the sun to dry. 
 
 Window Panes which Indicate the 
 Moisture of the Atmosphere. A neat 
 utilization of the property of cobalt and 
 nickel salts of indicating every change 
 of moisture by a change of color is as 
 follows : By coating window panes or 
 wall paper with solutions of I. : cobalt- 
 ous chloride 1 part, gelatine 10 parts, 
 and water 100 ; II. : cuprous chloride 1 
 part, gelatine 10 parts, and water 100 
 parts; III.: cobaltous chloride 1 part, 
 gelatine 20 parts, water 200 parts, 
 nickel protoxide 0.75 part, and cuprous 
 chloride 0.25, the painted surfaces re- 
 main colorless in cloudy weather, and 
 in clear weather No. I. turns blue, No. 
 II. yellow, and No. III. green. Other 
 attractive devices are likewise made. 
 
 OILS AND FATS. 
 
 Bleaching of Bone-fat. Melt the 
 
 t at from 158 to 167 F., then stir 
 into it 1 per cent, of soda-lye of 30 B v 
 to which has been added per cent, of 
 common salt, and let the mass stand 
 for 12 hours. The clear fat is then 
 brought into a barrel of soft wood and 
 allowed to cool to 104 F. Now dis- 
 solve 1 per cent, of the fat of potassium 
 bichromate in sufficient hot water that 
 the hot solution shows 22 B., add 3 
 per cent, of fuming hydrochloric acid 
 of 22 and stir the mixture into the fat. 
 The fat is then washed with hot water, 
 covered, and allowed to settle. 
 
 Bleaching of Paraffine and Similar 
 Substances for the Manufacture of 
 Candles. Filter the crude paraffine 
 and boil it 2 hours with 5 per cent, of 
 its weight of sodium sulphide and a 
 sufficient quantity of water. When 
 cold, the paraffine, which floats on the 
 top, is washed in water, pressed, and 
 dissolved in 20 per cent, of amyl alco- 
 hol, from which it separates as a pasty 
 mass. It is then allowed to rest for 
 some time, filtered through charcoal, 
 and subjected to powerful pressure. 
 
 Bleaching of Oils and Fats. The 
 following method, which is adapted for 
 solid and fluid fats, can be used for 
 bleaching and clarifying oils and fats 
 for domestic and industrial purposes. 
 Cotton-seed oil, rape-seed oil, and all 
 other fat oils are prepared for treatment 
 by mixing in a large tank with 2 to 3 
 per cent, of common salt and thor- 
 oughly stirring for 5 to 10 minutes with 
 25 to 50 per cent, of water. After a 
 rest of 24 to 48 hours it will be found 
 that a portion of the impurities and the 
 water and salt have settled on the bot- 
 tom. The supernatant oil is then 
 drawn off into another tank and again 
 thoroughly washed with cold water, 
 and again drawn off after a rest of 6 to 
 12 hours. 
 
 This treatment with common salt is 
 especially valuable for the preparation 
 of fine table-oils, but can also be used 
 for other oils, such as linseed oil, train 
 oil, etc. By conducting at the same 
 time during the mechanical treatment 
 an electrical current through the mixt- 
 ure the oil is bleached by the decom- 
 position of the common salt by the 
 
448 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 action of the electric current, and the 
 formation of secondary combinations 
 of strong bleaching power. 
 
 For many oils and fats which readily 
 become rancid or spoil, it is recom- 
 mended to add 2 to 3 per cent, of bi- 
 carbonate of sodium to the above proc- 
 ess. Besides the second washing with 
 cold water, the oil can also be treated 
 with steam conducted through it in a 
 finely divided state, 5 to 10 minutes 
 being sufficient for cotton-seed oil, while 
 15 to 20 minutes are required for rape- 
 reed oil and 30 minutes for fish oil. By 
 this treatment the rancid constituents 
 are removed and the slimy particles 
 precipitated. 
 
 Instead of steam, repeatedly heated 
 air mixed with 20 to 30 per cent, of hot 
 water may also be forced through the 
 oil by means of a blowing engine. By 
 filtering the oil thus prepared and stor- 
 ing it for some time, a pure product of 
 an agreeable taste and clear pale yel- 
 low color is obtained. For filtering,* the 
 ribbed sides and bottom of the filtering 
 vessel are covered with endless filtering 
 paper. 
 
 For the preparatory treatment of 
 varnish oil, burning and lubricating 
 oils, etc., the oil is compounded with a 
 solution of 2 per cent, of common salt 
 in 15 to 20 per cent, of water of 176 to 
 212 F., which, during the stirring, is 
 still further heated by the introduction 
 of steam. One to 1 per cent, of hydro- 
 chloric acid diluted with 15 to 20 per 
 cent, of water is then added with con- 
 stant stirring, and finally steam is in- 
 troduced in intervals of 5 minutes. 
 The oil is then allowed to collect in 
 settling tanks. 
 
 In many cases an addition of potas- 
 sium permanganate, or potassium chlo- 
 rate, or potassium bichromate previous- 
 ly dissolved in as little warm water as 
 possible is useful. For 100 parts of oil 
 about T\>- part of the last-named salts and 
 1 to 2 parts of common salt are used. 
 The heated oil to be bleached is suc- 
 cessively mixed with the salt solutions, 
 2 to 3 per cent, of hydrochloric acid or 
 1 to li per cent, of sulphuric acid be- 
 ing added by means of a rose with con- 
 stant stirring for one hour. Then add 
 30 per cent, of warm water to the mixt- 
 ure and allow it to rest. 
 
 After the oil is drawn off it is several 
 
 times washed with water with an addi- 
 tion of some soda and finally treated 
 with steam. The slimy sediment can 
 be used for the manufacture of soap. 
 This method is applicable to mineral, 
 vegetable, and animal oils. 
 
 Bleaching Tallow, About 50 pounds 
 of caustic soda-lye are placed in a clean 
 boiler and the steam is turned on. 
 Salt is then added to the lye until it 
 shows 25 to 28 B. ; 300 pounds of fat 
 are now placed in the boiler and the 
 steam is turned on until the mass is 
 brought to a boil, when the steam is 
 shut off to prevent overflowing. It is 
 then allowed to boil up 1 to 2 inches at 
 the most, and then left to itself ior 3 to 
 5 hours so that the fat will clarify. At 
 the end of this time the upper saponi- 
 fied layer is ladled off, the pure tallow 
 is removed and passed through a hair 
 sieve or linen into a clean vessel, until 
 the lower saponified layer is reached. 
 The residue in the boiler, consisting of 
 saponified fat and lye, is removed and 
 used in the preparation of curd soap, 
 together with 'i'he upper layer. 
 
 The boiler is then thoroughly cleansed 
 and about 30 to 35 pounds of water with 
 I to 1 pound of alum are heated to boil- 
 ing. To this solution the fat is added, 
 and the mass is allowed to boil for about 
 15 minutes, until all the filth has dis- 
 appeared from the fat. The mass is 
 then transferred to another vessel and 
 left to itself from 3 to 5 hours. The 
 pure fat is then again placed in the 
 boiler and heated until it shows a tem- 
 perature of 338 to 392 F. In this 
 last operation the fat becomes snow- 
 white. The steam must be turned off 
 as soon as the slightest trace of vapor 
 of a disagreeable odor is thrown off. 
 The fat may then be directly used or 
 left to cool. As stated, the steam must 
 be turned off or the fire removed as soon 
 as a trace of disagreeable vapors be- 
 comes manifest, whether the tempera- 
 ture be 306 or 338 F., for if this is 
 not done the fat will again turn dark. 
 
 Freshly rendered, sweet fat (not acid 
 or rancid) is most readily bleached and 
 may be heated quite high. Still the 
 fat should not be too fresh, or one will 
 take the risk of saponifying the 300 
 pounds without leaving any to bleach. 
 Tallow treated in this way, when used 
 for toilet soaps, gives them a white 
 
OILS AND FATS. 
 
 449 
 
 color and agreeable odor. It is also 
 well adapted for candle-making, as it 
 becomes exceedingly hard. 
 
 Clarifi/iny Olive Oil. The most com- 
 mon method is to have a series of boxes, 
 one above the other, each with cotton 
 battingin the bottom ; the oil passingthe 
 sixth box will be beautifully clear and 
 ready for market. Some use cylindrical 
 tin vessels holding about 3 gallons each, 
 one fitting into the other in tiers of 
 three, with fine wire sieves in the bot- 
 tom of each. On these sieves lie two or 
 three layers of cotton batting. The oil 
 is passed from one tier to the other until 
 clear. Clarifying can be done by the 
 sunlight also: it can be bleached and 
 made much lighter in color, but not 
 without injuring it. When it is adul- 
 terated artificial heat is necessary in the 
 process. When once heated it loses 
 a part of the nutty flavor, and is liable 
 to become rancid when exposed to the 
 air. It should be kept in an ordinarily 
 cool place and not exposed to sunlight 
 or heat; neither should it be handled 
 any more than absolutely necessary in 
 the filtering and bottling and should 
 not be shaken after it is bottled. The 
 mucilage contained in the oil will not 
 separate for a long time after the oil is 
 ready for use, and, as it does not injure 
 it, it is not therefore objectionable. 
 It will sometimes form in the bottle 
 like globules of water, in films settling 
 to the bottom as sediment, and when 
 shaken will give it a muddy appear- 
 ance, which frequentl v renders it unsal- 
 able, as consumers have a prejudice 
 against all table oils that are not per- 
 fectly clear. The oil is better when 
 new and fresh, and what is gained by 
 its appearance from remaining a longer 
 time in the tank is more than lost in 
 freshness and delicacy of flavor. 
 
 Detection of Water in Essential Oils. 
 Essential oil distilled from the respec- 
 tive parts of the plants with water con- 
 tain water, even if apparently perfectly 
 clear. By adding to such oils 3 to 5 
 times their volume of petroleum ether 
 of 0.67 to 0.675 specific gravity, an im- 
 mediate cloudiness will make its ap- 
 pearance in consequence of the separa- 
 tion of the drops of water. The more 
 water the oil contains the greater the 
 cloudiness. This simple test is infal- 
 lible. 
 
 29 
 
 Mrrniifitcture of Cotton-seed Oil. The 
 cotton seed having been screened from 
 all dust and foreign substances, is freed 
 from adhering cotton by passing it 
 through a machine similar to a gin, 
 only with teeth placed closer together. 
 The seed is then delivered into the 
 huller, which consists of a cylinder 
 armed with steel blades and surrounded 
 about two-thirds way by a concave box 
 also armed with corresponding knives. 
 The cylinder revolves at great speed, 
 and as the seed is forced between the 
 knives the pericarp or hull is broken 
 and forced from the kernel. The mass 
 of crushed seed then falls into a large 
 revolving sieve. The kernels, many of 
 which are broken into fine pieces, pass 
 through the meshes of the wire sieve, 
 and the pericarp to which the lint ad- 
 heres is carried away and either burned 
 under the boiler or used as cattle-feed. 
 The clean seed is now carried by a sys- 
 tem of elevatois into the attic story and 
 then passes down into the crushers or 
 rollers. These consist chiefly of two 
 rollers revolving towards each other 
 with unequal velocity, so geared as to 
 produce both a crushing and a tearing 
 effect upon the seed. The meal, as the 
 seed is now called, falls to the bin on 
 the first floor and is shovelled into the 
 heater, which is a short double cylinder 
 so arranged as to heat the meal in the 
 inner cylinder by steam, which circu- 
 lates in the space between the inner and 
 the outer walls. Here the meal is 
 heated until the water it contains is 
 converted into steam and escapes. The 
 hot meal is then placed in wedge- 
 shaped bags of woollen duck, each hold- 
 ing sufficient seed for a cake. The 
 bags are then placed between the sides 
 of wrappers formed of thickly woven 
 horsehair backed with corrugated 
 leather to facilitate the escape of the 
 oil, which are called "hairs" or 
 "books." The hair and its contained 
 bag of seed are then placed in the hy- 
 draulic press. The press usually has 
 spaces for four cakes, one above an- 
 other. The ram is 12 inches in diame- 
 ter and is worked at a pressure of 1 
 tons to the square inch. The pressure 
 is given by pumps, two with 1 inch 
 rams and two with 2* inch rams being 
 in one set; the larger diameter of 
 pumps gives the pressure quickly until 
 
450 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL EECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 it reaches about 3 cwt. per square inch, 
 when the small pumps give the final 
 squeeze. Fifteen minutes' pressure suf- j 
 fices to completely extract the oil, which I 
 collects in a reservoir. The hairs are | 
 then thrown out, the cluck bags are 
 stripped from the meal, now pressed 
 into solid cakes, the cakes are set up in 
 racks to dry, and the operation is com- 
 pleted. 
 
 Two merchantable articles are pro- 
 duced at the press: crude cotton-seed 
 oil and cotton-seed cake. After the 
 oil has cooled down to atmospheric 
 temperature, and the floating impuri- 
 ties have separated from it, it is of a 
 deep red color, and weighs about 7i 
 pounds to the gallon. It is estimated 
 that out of a bushel of seed weighing 
 30 pounds, three quarts of oil will be 
 produced, leaving about 10 pounds of 
 oil cake, which is very valuable for 
 feeding cattle, horses, and hogs. 
 
 It has been proven in England by 
 fair tests that the manure of cattle fed 
 with cotton-seed meal is better than any 
 other animal manure other than guano 
 from birds. The meal as food for meri- 
 no sheep produces an exceedingly valu- 
 able result. The usual effect of feeding 
 cotton-seed meal to female cattle when 
 they are with young is a tendency 
 to produce miscarriage. Strangely 
 enough, the effect upon merino ewes is 
 to make them bear twins. A sheep 
 farmer in Arkansas, by careful feeding 
 of cotton-seed meal to his flock, caused 
 three-fourths of his ewes to bear twins. 
 Another valuable result to be got from 
 feeding on cotton-seed meal is the oil 
 from the wool, which is more abundant 
 than from other food, and by the use 
 of naphtha in its preparation can be 
 made into the best tanning oil in use. 
 
 Fat from Sheep's Wool. Under the 
 name of lanolin Prof. Liebreich has 
 introduced a fat obtained from sheep's 
 wool, which is believed to possess 
 valuable properties for the preparation 
 of ointments. Various medicaments 
 combined with lanolin are said to be 
 more promptly absorbed than when 
 prepared with other bases as a vehicle. 
 Liebreich prepares lanolin in the fol- 
 lowing manner : 
 
 He takes the suds from the washing 
 of wool in the mills, submits it to the 
 action of a centrifugal machine which 
 
 separates the soapy, oily suds from the 
 dirt associated therewith, decomposes 
 the suds by an acid, whereby the acid 
 and the saponifying alkali unite, and 
 the saponified wool-fat is separated, 
 combined with about 100 per cent, of 
 water ; this is then thoroughly washed 
 with cold water, then heated so as to 
 separate the water and the wool-fat, 
 and again combined with a definite 
 proportion of water, and lanolin is the 
 result; or, he treats wool with alkaline 
 water, producing his suds in that way, 
 and then proceeding as above out- 
 lined. 
 
 A much quicker and less complex 
 way of making the article is to treat 
 the wool directly with petroleum ben- 
 zine; distil off the benzine, and the 
 wool-fat remains; combine this with a 
 proper proportion of water, and lanolin 
 results. 
 
 The last process is objectionable, 
 however, on account of the great diffi- 
 culty of entirely removing the odor of 
 benzine from the product. (W.) 
 
 "Suint," or Potass ic Sudorate in 
 Sheep's Wool. This is the name given 
 by the French to the sweat exuded 
 from the skin of the sheep and retained 
 in the wool. This substance, which 
 forms nearly 15 per cent, of the raw 
 wool, may readily be removed from the 
 wool by simple washing in water. It 
 contains considerable potash, and from 
 this source there are produced annually 
 in France about 250,000 pounds (or 100 
 tons) of potash. This substance must 
 not be confounded with the oil or grease 
 of the wool (which constitutes about 8 
 per cent, of the weight of the raw wool, 
 and is combined largely with earthy 
 matter, chiefly lime, as an insoluble 
 soap). The "suint" is a neutral salt 
 of potassium Math an animal acid con- 
 tained in the sweat. The wash-waters 
 of the large woollen manufactories are 
 utilized for this purpose, the liquors 
 being valued according to their strength. 
 The process consists in boiling down 
 the liquors to dryness, calcining the 
 mixture, lixiviating, and crystallizing. 
 It is estimated that if the wash-water 
 of all the fleeces handled in France could 
 be utilized the country could derive 
 from that source all the potash she 
 requires for agricultural and other 
 uses. (W.) 
 
OILS AND FATS. 
 
 451 
 
 Refining of Cotton-seed Oil. One 
 hundred gallons of the crude oil are 
 placed in a tank and 3 gallons of 
 caustic potash-lye of 45 B. are gradu- 
 ally added and well stirred for several 
 hours ; or, the same quantity of oil is 
 treated with about 6 gallons of soda-lye 
 of 25 or 30 B., and heated for an hour 
 or more to about 200 or 240 F. under 
 perpetual stirring and left to settle. 
 The clear oil is then separated from 
 the brown soap stock and this dark 
 soap sediment is placed into bags, 
 where the remainder of the oil will 
 drain off. 
 
 Refined cotton-seed oil has the color, 
 transparency, and taste of olive oil, 
 and it has the same character for lubri- 
 cating and pharmaceutical purposes. 
 It has the property of resisting cold, 
 remaining limpid, when pure, at 30 
 F., and quite fluid at 20, hardening 
 only at 8 to 10 F. It is not volatile, 
 but is a fixed oil like lard, sperm, or 
 olive oil, and is therefore not explosive. 
 It gives a brighter light and burns 
 longer than lard oil, owing to the 
 absence of the gum which always exists 
 in lard ; and for this reason it is a better 
 lubricator than lard oil. It is almost 
 impossible to distinguish good refined 
 cotton-seed oil from olive oil, and for 
 this reason the latter is frequently 
 adulterated with it, the general pro- 
 portion being about 75 parts of cotton- 
 seed oil to 25 parts of olive oil. 
 
 In the Southern and Western States 
 refined cotton-seed oil is largely used 
 for culinary purposes, and it is claimed 
 that for "shortening," as for pie- 
 crusts, it is far superior to lard or any 
 other grease, both as to taste of the 
 finished pie and its appearance. 
 
 Production of Light-colored Soap, or 
 Light-colored Sebacic A cids, from Crude 
 Cotton-seed Oil, or from Residues Ob- 
 tained by its Purification. The oil is 
 freed from impurities by settling or 
 filtering. The residues are slightly 
 warmed with a little water, and after 
 cooling drawn off from the aqueous 
 layer. The oil or the residues are then 
 treated with sufficient strong soda-lye, 
 so that the soap separates in flakes 
 which are removed from the strongly 
 colored under-layer. The soap is dis- 
 solved in as little water as possible, and 
 decolorized by the addition of chlorine 
 
 water. Instead of the latter, bleaching 
 powder, potassium chlorate, potassium 
 permanganate, or potassium bichromate 
 can be added and afterwards acids. By 
 the addition of an excess of such acids 
 purified sebacic acids are separated. 
 
 To Remove the Disagreeable Odor of 
 Soap made from cotton-seed oil, boil the 
 oil to be used for white soap with an 
 equal quantity of 25 per cent, soda-lye 
 for 3 to 4 hours. 
 
 Utilizing Cotton-seed Hulls. Instead 
 of treating the hulls as refuse or burning 
 them for fuel, potash and phosphate of 
 lime can be extracted from them by the 
 following process : The hulls are first 
 burnt and the resulting ashes boiled 
 for two hours in about ten times their 
 weight of water. Then gradual ly add 
 about half the weight of ash of lime 
 to the boiled solution and allow it to 
 settle. The clear liquid is next drawn 
 off in any suitable manner. The res- 
 idue is then put in a percolator and 
 exhausted with water, and the solution 
 is added to the clear liquid, and both 
 evaporated to dry ness, after which the 
 potash is fused and run into moulds. 
 The process of exhaustion is repeated 
 and the subsequent washings are used 
 to dissolve the next batch of ash and to 
 slake the lime. The residue left in the 
 percolator contains 50 per cent, of phos- 
 phate of lime. 
 
 New Process of Extra cling Fish Oil. 
 The fish are sprinkled with 5 per cent, 
 of their weight of ferric chloride or 
 sulphate solution of 45 B., and can then 
 be kept 3 or 4 days without undergoing 
 alteration. They are then crushed, 
 made into a paste, and pressed, when a 
 large quantity of oil and water is forced 
 out. The cake from the press dries 
 readily, becomes friable, and is easily 
 pulverized. A further quantity of fatty 
 matter may be obtained from it, either 
 by pressing between heated metal 
 plates, or by extraction with benzine or 
 carbon di-sulphide. The residue forms 
 an excellent fertilizer. 
 
 Preparation of Heavy Oils and Par- 
 affine from Petroleum, Residues. A 
 large percentage of paraffine oil can be 
 obtained by distilling the residues in 
 vacuum with superheated steam. At 
 from 59 to 68 F. these oils are gelat- 
 inous and contain from 22 to 24 per 
 cent, of paraffine, 20 per cent, of which 
 
152 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 can be gained. The oils are first puri- 
 fied by filtering through cloths at from 
 86 to 104 F., and treating with 4 to 5 
 per cent, of sulphuric acid of 66 B. 
 After allowing the tarry substances to 
 settle at 114 F., the oil is drawn off, 
 the acid removed with quicklime, and 
 the oil gradually cooled off to 41 F. 
 The paraffiue crystallizes and can be 
 obtained by pressing, after which it is 
 further purified by pressing with amyl 
 alcohol or benzine and filtration 
 through animal charcoal. 
 
 Purification of Oils. Linseed oil 
 should be warmed in an iron boiler and 
 melted lead poured into it, in a thin 
 stream, a little at a time. It should 
 then be left for several days in a warm 
 place, when a deposit separates and the 
 oil becomes quite clear. Oil thus 
 treated possesses in a high degree the 
 property of drying quickly, and is es- 
 pecially suited" for the manufacture of 
 varnishes aud lacquers. Cocoanut oil 
 should be rubbed up, thoroughly in- 
 corporated with warm water, placed hi 
 a bag and pressed through it. The 
 fluid thus obtained is brought to the 
 boiling point, and the separating oil 
 clarified with sugar and alum. The oil 
 thus obtained is odorless, white, and 
 well adapted for use in perfumery. 
 The purification of fatty oils may be 
 conducted in the following manner: In 
 a tub provided with a faucet 2 Ibs. of 
 potassium permanganate are dissolved 
 in 6i gallons of water. Eighteen gal- 
 lons of oil are added and thoroughly 
 agitated, and then left to settle for 2 
 days. After this time 4 gallons of 
 warm water are added with 11 Ibs. of 
 crude hydrochloric acid, and the whole 
 vigorously agitated. After several days' 
 rest the water is drawn off from the oil 
 and the latter is washed with hot water 
 to remove the acid. For the quicker 
 separation of the oil from the water the 
 whole is placed in a carboy with a per- 
 forated cork, in which two tubes are 
 fitted. One of these is a funnel tube, 
 reaching nearly to the bottom; the 
 other is a bent delivery tube, reaching 
 a little way below the cork. By pour- 
 ing water through the funnel tube the 
 oil is delivered bright and clear. It is 
 colorless and odorless. 
 
 Solidification of Liquid Hydrocar- 
 bons, The liquid hydrocarbon, such as 
 
 crude petroleum, refined petroleum, 
 etc., is mixed with some melted fat, 
 after which the mixture is acidulated, 
 and in the form of a spray introduced 
 into an alkaline solution. The mass 
 coagulates and is mechanically sepa- 
 rated from the aqueous solution. The 
 coagulum thus obtained is made still 
 more resisting to the influence of heat, 
 etc., by mixing with water-glass solu- 
 tion to which has been added burnt 
 lime, gypsum, or magnesia. To regain 
 the hydrocarbons the melted mass is 
 compounded with dilute sulphuric or 
 hydrochloric acid, whereby fat and hy- 
 drocarbon are separated on the surface. 
 By using ammonia for coagulating the 
 hydrocarbon the dried mass after heat- 
 ing can t>e formed into candles or 
 torches. For preparing solid fuel the 
 coagulum is mixed with powdered 
 eoke, etc. 
 
 The same method can also be used 
 for the solidification of volatile oils, fat 
 oils, etc. It is best not to add the acid 
 at one time, but in several portions, 
 and to stir thoroughly after each addi- 
 tion. If crude petroleum is to be solidi- 
 fied to be used for candles or torches, it 
 is previously purified by treatment 
 with oxidizing agents, such as potas- 
 sium manganate and permanganate, 
 etc. 
 
 Substitute for Linseed Oil. Melt 5i 
 parts of light Burgundy pitch and mix 
 with 2| parts of crude cotton-seed oil 
 and i part of fat oil, both previously 
 heated to 176 F. Then add 3i parts 
 of petroleum heated to the same tem- 
 perature and heat the mixture. When 
 cold add a trace of a mixture of oil of 
 valerian and essence of mirbane, and 
 allow the mixture to clarify. By boil- 
 ing the cotton-seed oil before use with 
 3 per cent, of gold litharge a mass is 
 obtained which can be used as a sub- 
 stitute for boiled linseed oil in prepar- 
 ing paints, varnishes, etc. 
 
 To Purify Oils. Heat the oil with 2 
 to 3 per cent, of sodium di-sulphide to 
 77 to 95 F., and stir until all the sul- 
 phurous acid has escaped. 
 
 The following method is especially 
 used for rancid and bitter peanut oil 
 and oil of almonds: Make an emulsion 
 of the oil with a base (good results have 
 been obtained with potash dissolved in 
 twenty times its weight of water), add 
 
PAPER. 
 
 453 
 
 about double the volume of oil of water 
 and agitate. In an hour the emulsion 
 is destroyed with sulphuric acid and 
 diluted with ten times its weight of 
 water. The reforming process com- 
 mences immediately ; the oil appears 
 on the surface, and after a few hours 
 of rest is completely separated. The oil 
 is then decanted and filtered. 
 
 White Vaseline Oil. To 100 parts 
 of yellow Eussian mineral oil add with 
 constant stirring 25 parts of fuming 
 sulphuric acid in a thin stream. Con- 
 tinue the stirring for 30 minutes and 
 allow the mixture to rest 4 to 5 hours. 
 Then draw the supernatant oil from the 
 black tar-like sediment into another 
 boiler, and add gradually and in small 
 portions 30 per cent, of best well -dried 
 decolorizing powder (residue from the 
 manufacture of potassium ferrocy- 
 anide.) Continue the stirring with 
 constant heating for 2 hours and then 
 Jet the oil rest 4 to 6 hours. Draw the 
 oil off and bring it into a double walled 
 filter heated by steam and filled i with 
 decolorizing powder. 
 
 Should the oil coming from the filter 
 not be entirely white, pass it through a 
 second filter and if necessary through 
 a third until the desired whiteness is 
 attained. 
 
 The major portion of the oil retained 
 by the decolorizing powder can be re- 
 gained by pressing the latter in a filter- 
 ing press, and by boiling the pressed 
 powder with water acidulated with 5 
 per cent, of sulphuric acid nearly all 
 the remainder of the oil is obtained. 
 
 Solvent Power of Glycerine. Al- 
 though not used to a great extent in the 
 chemical industries as a solvent, glyc- 
 erine is of considerable service for this 
 purpose in pharmacy. Below is a table 
 showing the solvent power of this sub- 
 stance. It is found that 100 parts (by 
 weight) of glycerine will dissolve : 
 
 30 
 
 
 
 
 Cupi ic sulphate. 
 
 VA 
 
 
 
 
 Mercuric chloride. 
 
 27 
 
 
 
 
 Mercuric cyanide. 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 Iodine. 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 
 Phosphorus. 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 
 Plumbic acetate. 
 
 50 
 
 
 
 
 Potassium arsenate. 
 
 V/* 
 
 
 
 
 Potassium chlorate. 
 
 25 
 
 
 
 
 Potassium bromide. 
 
 32 
 
 
 
 
 Potassium cyanide. 
 
 40 
 
 
 
 
 Potassium iodide. 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 
 Hydrogen sodium carbonate. 
 
 60 
 
 
 
 
 Borax. 
 
 98 
 
 
 
 
 Sodium carlionate. 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 
 Sodium chlorate. 
 
 & 
 
 
 
 
 Sulphur. 
 
 50 
 
 
 
 
 Zinc chloride. 
 
 35 
 
 
 
 
 Zinc sulphate. 
 
 50 
 
 
 
 
 Urea. 
 
 V 
 
 
 
 
 Morphine. 
 
 X^ 
 
 
 
 
 Quinine. 
 
 7* 
 
 
 
 
 Strychnine. 
 
 
 
 
 
 (W.) 
 
 Parts by weight. Substance. 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 Arsenious acid. 
 
 20 
 
 t 
 
 
 Arsenic acid. 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 Benzoic acid. 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 Boracic acid. 
 
 15 
 
 , 
 
 
 Oxalic acid. 
 
 50 
 
 
 
 Tannic acid. 
 
 40 
 
 
 
 Alums. 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 Ammonium carbonate. 
 
 20 
 
 . 
 
 
 Ammonium chloride. 
 
 514 
 
 
 Tartar emetic. 
 
 10 ; ! 
 
 
 Barium chloride. 
 
 PAPER. 
 
 Cupro-ammonium for Rendering 
 Paper and Textile Fabrics Water-, Rot-, 
 and Insect-proof. By a recently pat- 
 ented process called " Willesdeni'ziiitf," 
 paper, canvas, cordage, etc., are ren- 
 dered water-proof and rot-proof, and are 
 protected against liability to injury 
 from mould and the attacks of insects. 
 These products are made on the large 
 scale at Willesden, England, by the 
 Patent Water-proof Paper and Canvas 
 Co. Two classes of products are made. 
 1. Round or "made up" goods, con- 
 sisting of rope and cordage, Willesden- 
 ized netting, etc. ; and, 2. Flat goods 
 turned out in the roll. All of these 
 fabrics are water-proof and free from 
 any tendency to rot or mildew. The 
 " Willesdenized " paper and canvas 
 are made in endless rolls, and of any 
 desired thickness. They are adapted for 
 diverse uses, such as panel-work where 
 great strength is required, as a roofing 
 material which will be unaffected by 
 the weather, and for building purposes 
 generally. Any desired thickness of 
 material is obtained in the finished 
 product by pressing into one compact, 
 homogeneous sheet several layers while 
 they are still superficially gelatinized 
 or " pectized " by the action of the 
 cupro-ammonium solution. 
 
 The paper, canvas, etc., by this 
 process is treated with a solution of 
 cupro-ammonium hydroxide, which is 
 prepared by the action of strong am- 
 
454 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMiCAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 monia on copper turnings, in a cur- 
 rent of air. The action of the solution 
 on vegetable tissues (cellulose) is a sol- 
 vent action. The extracts to be treated, 
 however, are passed through the solu- 
 tion at such a rate as to simply gelatin- 
 ize the exterior of the fibres without 
 disintegrating them, so that on their 
 emergence from the batli the goods 
 possess sufficient coherence to permit 
 them to be passed through a suitable 
 drying apparatus. By this treatment 
 the exterior film of" pectized " cellulose 
 is converted into an elastic varnish in 
 
 bestos fibres of the best quality are 
 washed in solution of potassium per- 
 manganate and bleached with sul- 
 phuric acid. To 95 parts of fibre thus 
 prepared are added 5 parts of ground 
 cellulose such as is used in paper mills. 
 The mass is then thoroughly mixed 
 with an addition of glue water and 
 borax and then worked into paper. 
 The product is smooth and is made fit 
 for writing by satin Jzingj it is claimed 
 to resist a strong red heat. 
 
 For the preparation of fire-proof 
 printing and writing ink a mixture of 
 
 which all the copper taken up by the i platinum chloride and oil of lavender 
 materials is retained in the combination I is used, to which, for black printing ink, 
 (probably as a cupro-cellulose) and | lampblack and varnish are added, and 
 forms a perfect water-proof coating. for writing ink, Chinese ink, water, and 
 
 Instead of cupro-ammonium the gum-Arabic, 
 analogous zinc compound may be For a good fire-proof printing ink 10 
 
 used, though its action is not so prompt x ~ f ' "' 
 
 as that of the copper compound. Good 
 results are obtained by using a mixture 
 of the two metallic compounds. The 
 
 products here described have only 
 lately been placed upon the market, 
 but enough is known of them to make 
 it safe to state that they possess most 
 variable qualities. (W.) 
 
 fabrication of Parchment. A solid 
 parchment impermeable to water and 
 adapted for the osmose of molasses, 
 etc., is prepared as follows : Woollen 
 or cotton tissues are freed by washing 
 from gum, starch, and other foreign 
 substances, and then passed between 
 
 parts of platinum chloride and 25 parts 
 of lavender oil are heated in a por- 
 celain dish until the development of 
 gas ceases, and 35 parts of lampblack 
 and 30 parts of varnish added in small 
 portions. On heating paper printed 
 with this preparation the platinum is 
 reduced and remains as a black-brown 
 coating. 
 
 For fire-proof writing ink a mixture 
 of 5 parts of platinum chloride, 15 of 
 lavender oil, 18 of Chinese ink, 1 of 
 gum-Arabic, and 64 of water is used. 
 
 Colored fire-proof inks are produced 
 by an admixture of metallic under- 
 gla/e colors. 
 
 Gas-pipes from Paper. A strip of 
 manilla paper equal in width to the 
 
 two rollers in a bath containing some 
 
 paper pulp. The product is passed . r r _ ^ 
 
 through a bath of concentrated sul- length of the pipe to be made is passed 
 phuric acid and then repeatedly dipped I through a vessel with melted asphalt, 
 into one of aqueous ammonia until the j and then wrapped firmly and uniformly 
 acid is completely neutralized. It is around an iron core until the required 
 then pressed between rollers, dried be- 
 tween two other rollers covered with 
 felt, and finally calendered. 
 
 .Fire-proof Papers, Colors, and 
 Printed Matter. Actually fire-proof 
 paper, i. e., such as will bear a temper- 
 ature of 1482 F., in connection with 
 printers' ink or ink not affected by such 
 a strong heat, has not been known up 
 
 to this time. Some papers manufact 
 ured with asbestos will stand certain 
 degrees of heat, but they are not suit- 
 able for writing or printing paper. L. 
 
 Forbern, of Berlin, now prepares such > bichromate, 4 of gelatine, and 50 of 
 papers of the desired qualities accord- j calcium sulphide. The constituents 
 ing to a method patented by him. As- 1 are thoroughly dried and mixed by 
 
 thickness is attained. The pipe is then 
 subjected to powerful pressure, after 
 which the outside is strewn over with 
 sand, and the whole cooled in water. 
 The core is then removed and the in- 
 side of the pipe coated with a water- 
 proof composition. These pipes are 
 claimed to be perfectly gas-tight and 
 much cheaper than iron pipes, and 
 very resisting to shocks and concus- 
 sions. 
 
 Luminous Paper. The luminous 
 mass consists of 4 parts of potassium 
 
STRAW, BLEACHING AND DYEING OF. 
 
 455 
 
 grinding. One part of the resulting 
 powder IL stirred with 2 parts of boiling 
 water to a thickly fluid paint, 1 or 2 
 coats of which are applied with a brush 
 to the paper or pasteboard to be made 
 luminous. To avoid inequality in the 
 thickness of the layer of paint the 
 paper is passed through a sort of cal- 
 ender with rolls at a proper distance 
 to insure a uniform spreading of the 
 luminous mass. The rolls may be 
 heated, if desired. 
 
 Manufacture of Bottles, etc., from 
 Paper. Well-sized paper made of 10 
 parts of rags, 40 of straw, and 50 of 
 brown wood-pulp is generally used. 
 The paper is impregnated or coated on 
 both sides with a mixture of GO parts 
 of defibrinated blood, 35 parts of lime 
 powder, aud 5 parts of sulphate of al- 
 uminium. After drying 10 or 12 rolled 
 leaves are coated again, placed over 
 each other, and then brought into heated 
 moulds. The albumen in the blood 
 forms a combination on pressure with 
 the lime which is perfectly proof against 
 spirits, etc. Bottles are made in 2 
 pieces, which are joined afterwards 
 with caoutchouc cement. 
 
 New Method of Manufacturing Paper 
 Pulp. Straw or wood is digested for 
 12 hours in dilute milk of lime ; it is 
 then saturated with sulphur dioxide 
 under a pressure of four atmospheres, 
 which effects a complete disintegration 
 of the mass in 1 or 2 hours. The mass 
 is washed with water and subjected 
 under pressure to the action of 3 per 
 cent, of calcium chloride and 0.5 per 
 cent, of aluminium sulphate dissolved 
 in a small quantity of water. After a ! 
 final washing the product resembles 
 cotton wool in appearance and can be 
 used for the manufacture of the finest 
 kind of paper. 
 
 Paper for Covering Boilers. Im- 
 pregnate the paper with a silicate and, 
 when dry, coat with a mixture of 2 j 
 parts of magnesia, 2 of zinc white, 4 of 
 sodium silicate, aud 1 of linseed oil. 
 When dry apply a coat of sodium sili- 
 cate. 
 
 Preparation of Soap Paper. The , 
 material for impregnating the paper | 
 consists of 10 parts of glycerine, 30 ! 
 of alcohol, 60 of dry glycerine soap, ; 
 and 50 of ordinary dry neutral soap | 
 at a temperature varying between 162 j 
 
 and 180 F. In the trough containing 
 the mixture are three rollers driven by 
 steam and revolving in the same di- 
 rection, over the lower side of which 
 the paper is passed. During the man- 
 ipulation a thin spray of oil of tur- 
 pentine is allowed to fall upon the 
 paper, which makes it dry more quickly 
 and gives it a beautiful lustrous ap- 
 pearance. The patent applies not only 
 to paper but to all materials containing 
 40 or more per cent, of cotton. 
 
 To make Parchment Paper Imperme- 
 able to Oil. Dip the parchment in a 
 hot solution of gelatine to which has 
 been added 2 J to 3 per cent, of glycerine 
 and dry. To make the same parchment 
 water-proof soak in a solution of 1 per 
 cent, of linseed oil and 4 per cent, of 
 caoutchouc in carbon di-sulphide. 
 
 STRAW, BLEACHING AND DYEING OF. 
 
 Before straw is available for the 
 many industrial purposes for which it 
 is used it is subjected to a bleaching 
 process, which is generally preceded by 
 a cleansing bath. For the purpose of 
 dissolving the natural coloring matter 
 the straw is steeped in hot water and 
 then treated with alkaline lye, consist- 
 ing of 50 parts of water, 8 of potash, 
 and 12 of soda. When taken from 
 this bath it is successively immersed 
 in two or three of weaker lye, and 
 finally rinsed in boiling water. The 
 bleaching process commences in a 
 chlorine bath and is finished in one of 
 sulphuric acid. Good results are also 
 obtained by treating the straw, after 
 the cleansing process, with sulphur 
 vapors, but in order to obtain beautiful 
 shades of color it is advisable in this ca^e 
 to color the straw after the treatment 
 with a little picric acid by immersing 
 it in a bath consisting of 24 pounds 
 of water and f drachm of crystallized 
 picric acid. Besides, with sulphur va- 
 pors, the straw can also be bleached in 
 the following manner: Immerse 30 
 pounds of straw in warm water for a few 
 hours, then treat it with a soda solu- 
 tion of 40 B. for 6 hours, and boil it 
 for 1 hour with 1 pound of chloride of 
 lime. Then add to the bath 1 ounce 12 
 drachms of hydrochloric acid diluted 
 with 3 gallons of water and allow the 
 
456 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 straw to remain in it for i hour, after 
 which it is placed in a 1 per cent, soda 
 bath, and finally rinsed in water. By 
 this method the straw acquires a beau- 
 tiful white color and great suppleness 
 and elasticity. 
 
 Before dyeing it is advisable to 
 thoroughly soak the straw in order to 
 fix the color uniformly. The most im- 
 portant colors are black, brown, and 
 gray. 
 
 Black for 22 Pounds of Straw. Boil 
 the straw for 2 hours in a dye-bath of 4 
 pounds of logwood and 1 pound of su- 
 mach or gall nuts, and then place it in 
 a bath of nitrate of iron (best 4 B.), 
 rinse and dry. 
 
 Black for 22 Pounds of Straw. Boil 
 for 2 hours with logwood 4 pounds, su- 
 mach 4 pound, and fustic or turmeric 1 
 pound. Then darken with green vit- 
 riol, rinse and dry. 
 
 Black for 22 Pounds of Straw. Boil 
 for 2 hours with green vitriol 4 pounds, 
 tartar 2 pounds, and blue vitriol 1 
 pound. Finish in a bath of 8 pounds 
 of logwood, with an addition of some 
 turmeric. 
 
 Gray for 22 Pounds of Straw. Soak 
 the straw in a solution of sodium car- 
 bonate, with an addition of some lime 
 to remove the sulphur. Then boil for 
 2 hours in a dye-bath consisting of 
 alum 4 pounds, tartaric acid 3i ounces, 
 and, according to the desired shade, 
 some cochineal or indigo carmine. To 
 neutralize the cochineal add some sul- 
 phuric acid. After boiling wash the 
 straw in slightly acidulated water. 
 
 Brown for 22 Pounds of Straw. Boil 
 for 2 hours in a dye-bath of 1 pound 10 
 ounces of sanders wood, 2 pounds of 
 turmeric, i pound of sumach, and 1 
 pound 5 ounces of logwood. Then 
 rinse and darken according to the de- 
 sired shade with 3 to 4 per cent, of 
 green vitriol. 
 
 Chestnut-brown for 22 Pounds of 
 Straw. Catechu 1 pound 10 ounces, 
 turmeric 2 pounds, gall nuts 6 ounces, 
 and logwood 1 ounce. Boil for 2 hours, 
 rinse, and finally treat with nitrate of 
 iron of 4 B. and rinse again. 
 
 Havana Brown for 22 Pounds of 
 Straiv. Soak the straw in solution of 
 4i to 6-i pounds of alum, then dye in a 
 bath of 13 ounces of sanders wood, 1 
 pound of turmeric, 3 ounces 8 drachms 
 
 of sumach, and 12 ounces of logwood, 
 and rinse. 
 
 Violet for 22 Pounds of Straw. Boil 
 for 2 hours with alum 4 pounds, tar- 
 taric acid 1 pound, and tin salt 1 
 pound. According to the shade de- 
 sired add some extract of logwood or 
 indigo. After dyeing, wash in water 
 compounded with alum. 
 
 Red for 22 Pounds of Straw. The 
 mordant consists of tartar 1 pound and 
 some tin salt. Boil for two hours. 
 Then boil for one hour with fustic 1 
 pound, turmeric 7 ounces, madder 7 
 ounces, cudbear 1 pound, and logwood 
 1 pound. Then add, according to the 
 shade desired, cudbear, archil, or 
 madder. 
 
 Green for 22 Pounds of Straw. Boil 
 for 2 hours in a mordant of sumach 7 
 ounces, alum 2 pounds, and tartar 1 
 pound, and then add some picric acid, 
 turmeric, and aniline green. 
 
 Straw can also be dyed with aniline 
 colors, the manipulation of which pre- 
 sents no difficulties. 
 
 To give lustre to the articles manu- 
 factured from the dyed straw, gum or 
 gelatine is frequently used. 
 
 STRENGTH OF MATERIALS. 
 
 Autographic Torsion Testing Ma- 
 chine, made by the Pratt & Whitney 
 Co., Hartford, Conn. This instrument 
 has been devised by Prof. R. H. Thurston 
 for the special purpose of determining 
 thetorsional strength of materials of con- 
 struction. It gives the investigator an 
 autographic accord of the values of 
 elasticity, ductility, homogeneity, and 
 ultimate resistance of the various met- 
 als, alloys, woods, etc., used in engi- 
 neering constructions, enabling him to 
 pass a sound judgment upon the rela- 
 tive usefulness of such materials ibr the 
 various purposes in construction for 
 which they may be intended. The 
 machine is constructed with special 
 reference to convenience of operation, 
 and provides improved methods of sub- 
 jecting specimens to torsional strains, 
 either continuously or intermittingly, 
 through all degrees of strain to final 
 rupture; and the autographic recording 
 device with which the same is pro- 
 vided exhibits graphically throughout 
 
STRENGTH OF MATERIALS. 
 
 457 
 
 the entire investigation the relation be- 
 tween the moment of torsion and the 
 angle of torsion. The following de- 
 scription will make its construction 
 and. operation clear : 
 
 men to the weighted pendulum on the 
 opposite side of the frame. A yoke, 
 carrying a pencil, is attached or pivoted 
 to the pendulum, and is guided at its 
 upper end by a brass semi-circular tern- 
 
 Fig. 
 
 The jaws (Fig. 78) which receive the 
 specimen each have their axis in the 
 same plane horizontally and verti- 
 cally, and motion given to the worm 
 wheel is imparted through the speci- 
 
 plate or "curve of lines," its inner edge 
 being made to represent a curve, the 
 ordinates of which correspond to the 
 torsional resistance of the weighted 
 pendulum while moving through an 
 
458 
 
 TECH NO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 arc to which the corresponding abscissae 
 are proportional ; while the rotation of 
 the jaw attached to the worm wheel 
 causes the pencil to be moved forward 
 by the action of the guide curve. 
 
 Upon the shaft connecting the worm 
 wheel and the jaws which receive the 
 end of the specimen is a brass drum 5i 
 inches wide, and circumference equal 
 to 36 inches; upon this drum is 
 stretched a special blank of section- 
 lined paper, upon which strain dia- 
 grams are thus autographically traced. 
 
 The motion of the pencil in the direc- 
 tion of the axis measures the torsional 
 moment, from which the tensile 
 strength of the specimen may be de- 
 duced ; while the rotation of the drum 
 carrying the diagram represents the 
 angle of torsion, from which is deduced 
 the ductility of the specimen. 
 
 By an improved device the worm can 
 be readily disengaged from the worm 
 wheel, and by carefully allowing the 
 pendulum to swing back to its normal 
 position the limit of elasticity may be 
 determined. 
 
 By placing a number of the diagrams 
 representing strains or tests of various 
 metals, alloys, etc., upon the same 
 sheet, the results obtained may be read- 
 ily compared. (W.) 
 
 WILLOW- WARE. 
 
 Bleaching Willow-ware. This can 
 be effected either by means of sulphur- 
 ous acid, chlorine, or peroxide of hy- 
 drogen. The latter process, though 
 but little practised, is preferable to the 
 others, as no unwholesome gases or bad 
 odors are evolved. 
 
 For bleaching with sulphurous acid 
 place an iron dish filled with flowers 
 of sulphur in the bleaching room, and, 
 After igniting the sulphur, leave the 
 door open until the sulphur burns 
 freely. Then close the door all but a 
 small crack, and only shut it entirely 
 when the sulphur is nearly consumed. 
 Leave the articles 5 to 6 hours in the 
 room. 
 
 For bleaching with chlorine mix 1 
 part of chloride of lime with 15 parts 
 of water, acidulate the mixture with 
 sulphuric acid and place the vessel in 
 the bleaching room, which should be 
 
 air-tight and previously filled with the 
 articles to be bleached so arranged that 
 they are not in contact with the floor 
 or the walls. 
 
 Peroxide of hydrogen, which is now 
 an article of commerce, is the most ef- 
 fective and harmless bleaching agent. 
 It is entirely odorless, bleaches the ar- 
 ticles in less time than the others, and 
 no special bleaching room is required. 
 Place the articles in a bath of com- 
 mercial peroxide of hydrogen for ^ 
 hour, then take them out and expose 
 them to the sun. By this treatment 
 even yellowish and brownish willow- 
 ware is bleached snow-white. 
 
 Stains for Willow-ware. All kinds 
 of osiers take stains remarkably well, 
 but in order that they may penetrate 
 deeper and remain more constant when 
 exposed to air and light it is advisable 
 to treat the osiers first with a chemical 
 agent, lime-water being especially 
 adapted for the purpose. It is pre- 
 pared by gradually slaking fresh-burnt 
 lime with lukewarm water until it falls 
 to a fine powder, and stirring 1 part of 
 this with 15 to 16 parts of soft water, 
 allowing it to settle and pouring off the 
 supernatant fluid. The osiers are 
 placed in this for to 6 hours, accord- 
 ing to their thickness. They are then 
 taken out and dried at about 96 to 
 104 F. The warm wood eagerly ab- 
 sorbs every kind of stain. 
 
 The osiers are generally colored be- 
 fore working them into articles by 
 boiling in the stain for a shorter or 
 longer time, according to their thick- 
 ness and the depth of the color desired. 
 Small finished articles are, however, 
 sometimes colored by applying the hot 
 stain by means of a brush or dipping 
 them in the boiling stain. For the 
 latter process large vessels and consid- 
 erable quantities of stain are, of course, 
 required. 
 
 Black Stain. Place the osiers in a 
 boiling solution of 100 parts of aniline 
 nitrate and 5 parts of cupric chloride 
 in 1500 parts of water for 1 hour. 
 Then take them out, dry thoroughly 
 and place them for J hour in a boiling 
 bath of 100 parts of potassium bichro- 
 mate in 2000 parts of water. 
 
 No. 2. Boil 250 parts of logwood ex- 
 tract with 2500 parts of rain-water and 
 15 parts of alum. After straining the 
 
WILLOW-WARE. 
 
 459 
 
 liquid to remove the impurities con- 
 tained in the logwood extract, immerse 
 the osiers for 2 to 6 hours, according 
 to their thickness, keeping the bath 
 constantly boiling to effect a thorough 
 penetration of the stain. After taking 
 them out and drying place them for 2 
 to 4 hours in a boiling solution of 
 150 parts of sulphate of iron iu 1500 
 parts of rain-water. 
 
 A very beautiful b'lack color is ob- 
 tained by placing the osiers in the 
 above-mentioned decoction of logwood 
 extract, and, after drying, bringing 
 them for 4 to 6 hours in a boiling solu- 
 tion of 130 parts of cupric sulphate in 
 2000 parts of rain-water. 
 
 Hlne Stain. Boil 200 parts of indigo 
 with 4000 parts of soft water and leave 
 the osiers 5 to 6 hours in the boiling 
 stain. 
 
 Brown Stains. Place the osiers in a 
 solution of 10 parts of potassium per- 
 manganate in crystals in 300 parts of 
 water. By taking them out imme- 
 diately and allowing them to drain as 
 quickly and uniformly as possible a 
 pale yellow-brown color is obtained; 
 by allowing them to remain i hour a 
 somewhat darker color, which, by an 
 immersion of 2 to 3 hours, may be 
 made a dark chestnut-brown. 
 
 No. 2. Place the osiers for 2 hours 
 in a boiling solution of 15 parts of pot- 
 ash in 200 parts of water, and, after 
 drying, place them for 2 hours in a 
 boiling solution of 5 parts ofpyrogallic 
 acid in 200 parts of water. The color 
 thus obtained is a beautiful light chest- 
 nut-brown and very constant. 
 
 No. 3. Place the osiers for 4 hours 
 in a strained decoction of 15 parts of 
 prepared catechu and 3 parts of soda 
 with 200 of water, and, after drying, 
 for 1 hour in a solution of 10 parts of 
 potassium bichromate in 250 parts of 
 water. 
 
 Gray Stains. Blue-gray. Place the 
 osiers for 2 hours in a boiling solution 
 of 35 parts of sulphate of iron in 150 
 parts of water, and, after drying, i hour 
 in a boiling solution of 3 parts ofpyro- 
 gallic acid in 100 parts of water. 
 
 Dark Gray. Place the osiers for 2 to 
 6 hours, according to the depth of color 
 required, in a boiling solution of 45 
 parts of sulphate of iron in 150 parts 
 of water, and, after drying, for the same 
 
 length of time iu a boiling solution of 
 20 parts of pyrogallic acid in 100 parts 
 of water. 
 
 For the production of beautiful pure 
 gray colors only fine green sulphate of 
 iron is to be used, while for yellowish- 
 gray shades the weathered, rusty mate- 
 rial is employed. 
 
 Green Stain. Place the osiers for 3 
 to 4 hours in a boiling solution of 20 
 parts of indigo and 10 parts of picric 
 acid in 500 parts of water. The shades 
 of green can be varied at pleasure by 
 using different proportions of the two 
 coloring matters. Bluish-green and 
 blue-green shades are obtained by 
 taking more indigo and yellowish-green 
 and yellow-green by adding more picric 
 acid. 
 
 Yellow Stain. Boil 20 parts of 
 Avignon berries, powdered or ground 
 as fine as possible, and 2 parts of soda 
 with 200 parts of water, strain, and, 
 after boiling the clear liquor, place the 
 osiers in it for 2 to 4 hours. 
 
 Yellow Stain from Picric Acid. Dis- 
 solve 10 parts of crystallized picric acid 
 in 200 parts of boiling water. By treat- 
 ing the osiers for 2 hours in this solu- 
 tion a beautiful yellow color, of great 
 constancy, is obtained. 
 
 Coloring Osiers with Aniline Colors. 
 It is best, as a general rule, to produce 
 only black, brown, gray, and yellow 
 colors by means of stains, and the more 
 vivid colors, such as red, blue-green, 
 etc., with aniline colors. 
 
 In coloring with aniline colors the 
 treatment of the osiers with lime-water 
 is omitted, as in the presence of the 
 smallest quantity of quicklime the 
 aniline colors frequently undergo a 
 change. The osiers are instead treated 
 in a bath prepared by boiling 12 parts 
 of Marseilles soap in 500 parts of water 
 until the soap is dissolved. After suf- 
 ficient soaking in the soap-bath the 
 osiers are thoroughly dried in a heated 
 room. 
 
 Aniline colors soluble in water 
 should be used, though such as are 
 soluble in water and alcohol may also 
 be employed by dissolving them in a 
 small quantity of alcohol and diluting 
 with water. The colors soluble in 
 water are mixed with the required 
 quantity of water, best heated from 86 
 1 to 140 F., and, after stirring for a few 
 
460 
 
 TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 minutes, the osiers are kept in the bath 
 until they are sufficiently colored. 
 
 Blue Stains. Dark Blue. Fifteen 
 parts of Bengal blue (deep blue) and 
 350 parts of water. 
 
 Greenish-blue. Fifteen parts of bleu 
 trZs vert and 300 parts of water. 
 
 Light Blue. Fifteen parts of bleu de 
 lumfere and 400 parts of water. 
 
 Sky-blue. Fourteen parts of bleu de 
 del and 400 parts of water. 
 
 Brown Stains. Bismarck Brown. 
 Fifteen parts of Bismarck brown and 
 400 parts of water. 
 
 Chestnut Brown. Eighteen parts of 
 maroon and 450 parts of water. 
 
 Dark Brown. Eighteen parts of 
 leukaniliue brown and 350 parts of 
 water. 
 
 Gray Stains. Blue-gray. Fifteen 
 parts of gris-bleu and 350 parts of 
 water. 
 
 Iron-gray. Twenty parts of gris- 
 rouge and 350 parts of water. 
 
 Gray. Fourteen parts of gris and 
 300 parts of water. 
 
 Yellowish-gray. Fifteen parts of 
 gris-jaune and 300 parts of water. 
 
 Green Stains. Dark Green. Fifteen 
 parts of methyl green, 3 parts of bleu 
 de lumitre, and 400 parts of water. 
 
 Leaf-green. Fifteen parts of mala- 
 chite green, 4 parts of naphthaline 
 yellow, and 300 parts of water. 
 
 Dark Leaf-green. Fifteen parts of 
 malachite green, 3 parts of bleu de 
 lumi"ere, and 300 parts of water. 
 
 Light Green. Fifteen parts of 
 methyl green and 300 parts of water. 
 
 Malachite Green. Fifteen parts of 
 malachite green and 300 parts of water. 
 
 Red Stains. Crimson. Twelve parts 
 of rouge cochenille and 400 parts of 
 water. 
 
 Coral Red. Twelve parts of coral- 
 line and 400 parts of water. 
 
 Dark Red. Twelve parts of fuchsine, 
 4 parts of orange, and 400 of water. 
 
 Delicate Pale Red. Five parts of 
 eosine and 400 parts of water. 
 
 Ponceau Red. Twelve parts of pon- 
 ceau and 400 parts of water. 
 
 Rose Color. Twelve parts of rose 
 bengale and 400 parts of water. 
 
 Violet Stains. Bluish-violet. Fif- 
 teen parts of methyl violet, 30 parts of 
 bleu d e lumibre, and 500 parts of rain- 
 water. 
 
 Dark Violet. Fifteen parts of methyl 
 violet and 400 parts of water. 
 
 Light Violet. Fifteen parts of methyl 
 violet and 400 parts of water. 
 
 Reddish-violet. Fifteen parts of 
 methyl violet, 3 parts of fuchsine, and 
 400 parts of water. 
 
 Yellow Stains. Dark Yellow. Eigh- 
 teen parts of phosphine and 300 parts 
 of water. 
 
 Pure Yellow. Fifteen parts of naph- 
 thaline yellow and 400 parts of water. 
 
 Reddish-yellow. Twenty parts of 
 orange, 50 parts of fuchsine, and 550 
 parts of water. 
 
 Saffron Yellow. Eighteen parts of 
 saffronine and 300 parts of water. 
 
 By mixing several colors an innu- 
 merable variety of shades can be pro- 
 duced ; but, to avoid mistakes, it is best 
 to always experiment first with small 
 quantities. 
 
 Varnishing, Gilding, and Painting 
 Willow-ware. If willow-ware is to be 
 varnished without staining, it is best, 
 after bleaching the articles, to give 
 them a coat of a hot solution of white 
 glue. This closes the pores and makes 
 the coat of varnish more uniform and 
 more lustrous. Dammar varnish and 
 cheap copal varnish should never be 
 used. 
 
 For white ware use colorless spirit 
 lacquer ; for dark ware, light and dark 
 brown spirit lacquer or quick-drying 
 copal varnish ; and for black, deep- 
 black spirit lacquer or quick-drying 
 asphaltum lacquer. 
 
 If the ware is to be painted, give two 
 coats of good oil paint, and when thor- 
 oughly dry a coat of varnish. 
 
 For gilding, apply first a coat of 
 well-covering pale yellow oil paint 
 (white lead and ochre), and when dry 
 a coat of gilders' varnish. Before the 
 latter is entirely dry lay on the gold or 
 silver-leaf cut into suitable pieces, and 
 press it down with a cotton pad. When 
 dry remove the superfluous leaf with a 
 soft brush. 
 
 Bronzing is done by applying a coat 
 of good copal varnish, and before the 
 latter is entirely dry dusting over the 
 bronze powder by means of a soft 
 brush. To avoid unnecessary loss, 
 place the article upon a sheet of clean 
 white paper, so that superfluous bronze 
 powder can be saved. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Abb elixir, 16. 
 Absinthe tincture, 13. 
 
 veritable extract, 25. 
 Acetate of indigo, 184, 185. 
 
 potassium, to prepare, 74. 
 Acetic acid, pure, to prepare, 73. 
 
 acid, to prepare, 360. 
 
 ether, to prepare, 358. 
 Acid, acetic, 360. 
 
 acetic, to prepare, 73. 
 
 molybdic, to prepare, 73, 74. 
 
 nitric, detection of in vinegar, 2. 
 
 oleic, to prepare, 73. 
 
 oxalic, preparation of, 73. 
 
 sulphocyanic, to prepare, 73. 
 
 sulphuric, detection of in vinegar, 2. 
 
 tartaric, detection of in vinegar, 2. 
 
 tar, to extract oil from, 251. 
 Adrielle's process of silvering metals, 112. 
 Adulterations, imitations, etc., how to detect 
 them, 1-3. 
 
 in beer, 223-226. 
 Agate, how to imitate, 11. 
 
 Schrader's formula, 12. 
 
 to convert into onyx, 177, 178. 
 Agents, cleansing, polishing, and renovating, 
 
 75-78. 
 Air, compressed, blowing glass by means of, 
 
 426-430. 
 Alabaster glass, 144. 
 
 soap, 333. 
 
 to cleanse, 78. 
 Albumen, from blood, 324, 325. 
 
 natural, manufacture of, 324, 325. 
 
 patent, 325. 
 Alcohol, absolute, to prepare, 227. 
 
 amyl, 229, 230. 
 
 and compressed yeast from uncrushed 
 cereals, 226. 
 
 of 70 per cent, to convert to 90 per cent, in 
 the cold way, 226. 
 
 to purify, 226, 227, 230. 
 
 use of in detecting adulteration of wax, 2. 
 Alfieri's receipt for removing incrustations, 40. 
 Alizarine, artificial, 186. 
 
 dyeir-? Turkey red with, 106, 107. 
 
 inks, 196, 197. 
 
 liquor, 187. 
 
 oil, English patent, 107. 
 
 preparation of, 184-187. 
 
 process of obtaining, 185-187. 
 Alkaline copying ink, 198. 
 
 gelatine developer, 298. 
 
 tooth-powder, 94. 
 Allataim du Harem, 58. 
 Alloy for imitation of gold and silver wires, 8. 
 
 for music printing plates, 6. 
 
 for soldering aluminium, 4, 
 
 Alloy, new, for silvering, 404. 
 
 new nickel, 5. 
 
 of copper, platinum, and palladium, 403. 
 
 resembling gold, 8. 
 
 resembling silver, 8. 
 
 Robertson's, for filling teeth, 3. 
 
 unalterable, 7. 
 
 which will not oxidize, 5. 
 Alloys, 3-8, 4' i3-406. 
 
 aluminium, 3, 4. 
 
 available for spoons and forks, 6. 
 
 density of, 405. 
 
 English copper, 7, 8. 
 
 exhibiting greater density than the mean 
 of their constituents, 405. 
 
 exhibiting less density than the mean of 
 their constituents, 405. 
 
 for dental purposes, 6. 
 
 for journal-boxes, 6. 
 
 for taking impressions of corns, medals, 
 etc., 3. 
 
 fusibility of, 405. 
 
 manganese, 403, 404. 
 
 resembling silver, 5, 403. 
 
 silver and aluminium, 4. 
 
 table of composition of, 8. 
 
 which can be rolled at red heat, 6. 
 Almond, bitter, essence, 13. 
 Almonds, glazed, 84. 
 
 roasted, 83. 
 
 Altars, to cleanse and renovate, 260. 
 Altvater's process of manufacturing vinegar, 
 
 355-358. 
 
 Alumina and iron mordants on cotton-prints, 
 linen, etc., fixing of by water-glass, 379. 
 Aluminium acetate, 187. 
 
 alloy for soldering aluminium, 4. 
 
 alloys, 3. 
 
 and gold alloys, 4. 
 
 and iron alloy, 4. 
 
 and silver alloys, 4. 
 
 and tin alloys, 4. 
 
 and zinc alloys, 4. 
 
 bronze, 404. 
 
 bronze, solder for gold on, 339. 
 
 bronzes, 4. 
 
 flux for soldering, 4. 
 
 hydrate, 187. 
 
 nitrate, 1S7. 
 
 palmitate, its uses in industrial works, 
 211,212. 
 
 plating with, 111. 
 Alum in red wine, 3. 
 
 manufacture of, from residues from shale 
 
 oil, 247. 
 Ambergris essence, 13. 
 
 water, 18. 
 Ambrosia, a new nourishing flour food, 133. 
 
 (461) 
 
462 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 American nickelling, 109. 
 sleigh-bells 5. 
 
 woods, strength of some, 396. 
 Amethyst, formula for, 11. 
 Amianthus paper, 277. 
 Ammoniacal liquor from coal-tar, utilization 
 
 of, 373, 374. 
 
 Ammonia, from gases of coke ovens, 374, 375. 
 from nitrogeneous organic substances, 
 
 377. 
 
 liniment, 167. 
 Ammonium, cupio, 453. 
 
 nitrate, to protect from moisture, 32. 
 Amorces d'Allumettes, 237. 
 Amorphous phosphorus, preparation of, 237, 
 
 238. 
 
 Amyl alcohol, 229, 230. 
 Anatomical specimens, fluids for preserving, 
 
 310,311. 
 Angel elixir, 17. 
 Angelica cordial, 18. 
 essence, 13. 
 sweetmeat, 82. 
 Anhydrous glucose, 341. 
 Aniline colors, coloring osiers with, 459, 460. 
 colors, to dye buttons with, 184. 
 colors, to dye feathers with, 1'22. 
 colors, to dye wool, silk, and cotton with, 
 
 100-105. 
 inks, 198. 
 
 Animal charcoal, furnace for continuous manu- 
 facture of, 444, 445. 
 charcoal, to detect adulterations of, 1. 
 oils, to purify, 251, 252. 
 skins, dyeing and patterning, 219. 
 skins, preparation, free from arsenic, for 
 
 preserving, 408. 
 skins, to preserve, 161. 
 Animal waste, manure from, lf>9. 
 Animalizing of hemp and jute, 105. 
 Animals, stuffed, to preserve, 161. 
 Anise-seed cordial, 17. 
 essence, 13. 
 extract, 13. 
 tincture, 13. 
 Anisette cordial, 17. 
 French, 17. 
 Holland, 18. 
 Annotto and turmeric, the least stable yellow 
 
 dyes, 3. 
 
 Antarthritic papers, 298. 
 
 Anthoine and Genaud, process for dynamite, 29. 
 Antifriction brasses, 7. 
 Antiphosphorus matches, 237. 
 Antique green, 44. 
 Antiscorbutic sweetmeat, 83. 
 Antiseptic agents, effective power of different, 
 
 4(17. 
 
 and preservative agents, 405-408. 
 Antiseptics, new, 406, 407. 
 Ants, to drive from closets, etc., 162. 
 Apcenite, Ransome's patent, 50, 51. 
 Apparatine sizing, 327. 
 Apparatus for purifying water, 72. 
 
 for testing percentage of nicotine in to- 
 bacco, 74. 
 Appert's method of blowing glass by means 
 
 of compressed air, 426-430. 
 Apple champagne, 158, 
 ratafia, 26. 
 wine, 158. 
 
 Aqua Bianca, 18. 
 
 marine, formula for, 11. 
 
 reale, 18. 
 
 Turco liqueur, 18. 
 Aquaria, cement for, 64. 
 Armenian glue, 66. 
 Aromatic balsam, 295, 296. 
 
 cordial, 18. 
 
 tincture, 13. 
 Arsenical enamel, 144. 
 Artificial alizarine, 186. 
 
 building stone, 49. 
 
 butter, 130-133. 
 
 butter, to distinguish from genuine, 3, 
 
 chalk, 174. 
 
 cognac, 227. 
 
 ebony, 177. 
 
 eyes, manufacture of, 408, 409. 
 
 flowers, mass for, 157. 
 
 flowers, stains for paper for, 279. 
 
 fruits, mass for, 157. 
 
 gems, minerals for coloring, 12. 
 
 gems, pearls, and Turkish beads, 9-13. 
 
 gems, Wagner's formula for, 12. 
 
 grindstones, 51. 
 
 ivory, 43, 416. 
 
 ivory for photographic purposes, 43. 
 
 ivory, new, 43. 
 
 leather, 174. 
 
 marble, 51. 
 
 millstones, 51. 
 
 pearls, Geissler's process, 12. 
 
 sandstone for filtering, 71. 
 
 sharpening stone for pencils, 177. 
 
 whalebone, 178. 
 
 wines, 230, 231. 
 
 wood for ornaments, 93. 
 
 wool, 175. 
 
 yeast, 401, 402. 
 Artists' colors, 271, 272. 
 Asbestos and its uses, 409. 
 
 and rubber packing, 62. 
 
 industry in England, 409. 
 Ash and blood cement, 65. 
 Asiatic dentifrice, 94. 
 Asphaltum, adulteration of, 2. 
 
 for paving, 53. 
 
 Lyon's, 54. 
 
 pitch, lampblack from, 371, 372. 
 Asthma and colds, balsam for, 294. 
 Astronomical instruments, lubricating oil for, 
 
 234. 
 
 Atmography, 87. 
 Atmosphere, window panes to indicate the 
 
 moisture of, 447. 
 
 Aubriat's process of decorating glass, 92. 
 Augender's white powder, 30. 
 Autogenous soldering, 337. 
 Autographic ink, 192. 
 
 method of printing, 86. 
 Automatic gas-lighter, 173. 
 Aventurine glass, 144. 
 Axle boxes, Fenton's alloy for, 7. 
 Axles, lubricants for, 232, 233. 
 
 Backing glasj signs with shades, pearl inser- 
 tions, and with tinfoil, 148. 
 
 Bacteria, to produce vinegar with, 358-360. 
 
 Baeder, Adamson & Co.'s process of extracting 
 castor oil, 247. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 463 
 
 Bags, to water-proof,' 385, 386. 
 Baking powders, JS5, Sti. 
 
 Ballatschano and Trenck's new tanning pro- 
 cess, 214. 
 
 Balling's method of preparing caustic soda- 
 lye, 335. 
 
 Bnlloon varnish, 207, 208. 
 Balls, billiard, composition for, 62. 
 Balm of Gilead, 294. 
 Balsam, aromatic, 2^5, 290. 
 
 for colds and asthma, 294. 
 
 for sprains, 296. 
 
 for wounds, etc., 167, 1G8, 296. 
 
 fumigating, 293. 
 Bandage, plastic, 297. 
 Bandoline, receipts for, P5, 86. 
 Barbadoes essence, 13. 
 
 ratafia, 25, 26. 
 Barenburg snuff, 353. 
 Barium, sulphate of, for sizing, 327. 
 Barff 's preserving compound, 405, 406. 
 Barley, germinating the, for brewing, 221. 
 
 kiln-drying for brewing, 221. 
 
 steeping the, for brewing, 221. 
 Barrels and wooden articles, to preserve by 
 use of water-glass, 382. 
 
 leaky, cement for, 66. 
 
 new glaze for, 223, 396, 397. 
 
 to cleanse, 76. 
 
 Baths, coppering, for iron and steel articles, 
 115. 
 
 for coating wire, 114. 
 
 for nickelling iron, steel, brass, copp' r, tin, 
 Britannia metal, lead, zinc, and tinned 
 sheet metal, 109-111. 
 
 for photographic purposes, 300, 301. 
 
 nickel, 109. 
 Batiste, to wash, 363. 
 Baudet's preventive of incrustations, 40. 
 Beads, Turkish, 9-12. 
 
 Turkish, formula for, 12. 
 
 Becker, Delivaire & Co.'s process of water- 
 proofing fabrics, 385. 
 Bed-bugs, to destroy, 162. 
 Beef's gall, as a varnish for oil paintings, 
 
 259. 
 Beef, to smoke, 315. 
 
 tea, to prepare, 165, 166. 
 Beer, adulterations in, 223-226. 
 
 brewing, 221-226. 
 
 cooling, 222. 
 
 flaxseed pulp for clarifying, 222, 223. 
 
 ginger, 160. 
 
 malt, 295. 
 
 root, 160. 
 
 spruce, 160. 
 
 tests for, 223-226. 
 
 to clarify, 222, 223. 
 
 yeast, to prepare pressed yeast from, 402. 
 Beeswax, to bleach, 387. 
 Belladonna ointment, 166. 
 Bell metal, best quality, 8. 
 Bells, alloy for, 5. 
 
 American sleigh, 5. 
 
 and gongs, metal for, 8. 
 
 metal for large and small, 8. 
 Belmontine and Sherwood oils, 254. 
 Belt grease, 435. 
 Belts, caoutchouc lubricant for, 436. 
 
 leather, cements for, 64. 
 
 lubricant for, 233. 
 
 Bending of glass tubes, 146. 
 Bengal lights, 124. 
 
 Benzine, in the extraction of fat of bones, 
 250. 
 
 substitute for, in cleansing gloves, etc., 
 254. 
 
 test of, 254, 255. 
 Benzole, test of, 254, 255. 
 Bergamot essence, 13. 
 
 snuff, 353. 
 Berlin bitters, 18. 
 Beryl, formula for, 11. 
 Bessemer steel, to silver, 112. 
 Betton's cattle liniment, 167. 
 Bianca, aqua, 18. 
 Billiard balls, composition for, 62. 
 Birch wine, 158. 
 Birdlime, description of, 156. 
 Bird of Paradise plumes, 118. 
 Biscuit, meat, 130. 
 Bismuth and platinum alloy, 4. 
 
 lustre, 422. 
 
 solder, 337. 
 
 to silver wooden figures with, 91. 
 Bisulphide of carbon in extracting oils, 247. 
 
 of carbon, to purify, 77. 
 
 of carbon, use of in determining oils in 
 
 seeds, 1. 
 Bitter almond essence, 13. 
 
 almond soap, 331. 
 
 elixir, 294. 
 
 rossoli, 18. 
 Bitters, Berlin, 18. 
 
 coloring substances for, 12, 13. 
 
 cordials, elixirs, liqueurs, ratafias, and 
 essences ; extracts, tinctures, and waters 
 used in their manufacture, and the man- 
 ner of coloring them, 12-27. 
 
 English, 22. 
 
 Greek, 22. 
 
 Grime wald, extract for, 14. 
 
 Hamburgh, 22. 
 
 Spanish, 24. 
 
 Stettin, 24. 
 
 stomach, 24, 25. 
 
 Thiem's, 25. 
 
 Vienna, 25. 
 
 Vienna stomach, 25. 
 Bitumen mortar, 53. 
 
 Black and colored drawings upon ivory, 42. 
 Blackboards, artificial slating for, 177. 
 
 coating for, 266. 
 Blackberry wine, 158. 
 Black bronze, 46. 
 
 bronze on brass, 46. 
 
 colors, test for, 3. 
 
 crayons, 79. 
 
 gloss for leather, 215. 
 
 ground for lacquering, 392. 
 
 mustard seed, yield of, in oil, 2. 
 
 pigments, various kinds of, 266, 267. 
 
 polish on iron and steel, 210. 
 
 varnishes, 208. 
 
 Blacking, rlew receipts for, 438, 439. 
 Blacksmiths' pitch from coal tar, 257. 
 Blasting cartridges, 424. 
 
 compound, Faure & French's, 32. 
 
 compound from potato-starch, 31. 
 
 compound of honey and glycerine, 32. 
 
 compounds by nitrating crude-tar oils, 33, 
 
4G4 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Blasting compounds, blasting powder, dyna- 
 mite, gun-cotton, gunpowder, nitro- 
 glycerine, fulminates, etc., 27-34. 
 
 compounds, new, 32, 33. 
 
 compounds, nitro-glycerinc, fulminates, 
 etc., 27-34. 
 
 paper, 424. 
 
 powder, by Martinsen, 32. 
 
 powder, Green's, 31. 
 
 powder, new, 425. 
 
 powder, Trets'. 30. 
 
 under water with compressed gun-cotton, 
 
 424, 425. 
 
 Bleach and harden tallow, to, 37. 
 Bleaching, 34-39, 409, 410. 
 
 bones and ivory, 41. 
 
 bones for turners' use, Hedinger's method, 
 40. 
 
 bristles, 37. 
 
 copper plate engravings, 37. 
 
 cotton, Frohnheiser's method, 34. 
 
 cotton goods with woven borders, 34. 
 
 cotton piece goods, 34. 
 
 David's new process for, 38, 39. 
 
 ivory articles, 43. 
 
 ivory turned yellow, 40. 
 
 muslin, 34. 
 
 novelties in, 410. 
 
 of bone fat, 447. 
 
 of clothes which have turned yellow, 366. 
 
 of oils and fats, 447, 448. 
 
 of paraffine and similar substances for the 
 manufacture of candles, 447. 
 
 of silk, 36. 
 
 of sponges, 37. 
 
 straw, 455. 
 
 shellac, 37, 38. 
 
 stained marble, 39. 
 
 tallow, 448, 449. 
 
 willow-ware, 458. 
 
 without chlorine, 409, 410. 
 
 wool without sulphur, 36. 
 
 with water-glass, 379, 3SO. 
 
 yarns and fabrics, 410. 
 Blistering ointment, 294. 
 Blood albumen, to prepare, 324, 325. 
 
 and ash cement, 65. 
 
 from meat cattle, to prepare as a food, 
 312. 
 
 manure powder from, 169. 
 Blotters, porous substitute for, 178. 
 Blue bronze, 46. 
 
 chalks, 79. 
 
 dyes, boiled with hydrochloric acid, 3. 
 
 dyes, effect on alcohol, 3. 
 
 pigments, 267. 
 
 prints, 87. 
 
 stamp color, 80. 
 
 washing, manufacture of, 368-370. 
 Bobbinet, size for, 325. 
 Boegel's quick process of tanning, 216. 
 Bohemian crystal and other glasses, 142, 143. 
 Boiler for glue, 150. 
 
 incrustations, 39, 40. 
 Boilers, paper for covering, 455. , 
 Bolts, screw, zincing of, 443, 444. 
 Bone and ivory, cement for, 05. 
 
 and ivory dyeing. 41. 
 
 and ivory glue for, 66. 
 
 fat, bleaching of, 447. 
 
 glass, 144. 
 
 Bone glue, 154. 
 
 horn, and ivory, to bleach and dye them, 
 and make imitations and compositions, 
 40-44. 
 Bones and ivory, bleaching, 41. 
 
 fat of, to bleach and purify, 250. 
 
 receipts for coloring, 41, 42. 
 Bon-bons, carrot, 81. 
 
 cream, 81. 
 
 malt, 81. 
 
 of caramel sugar with soft filling, to pre- 
 pare, 81. 
 
 pectoral, 81. 
 
 raspberry, 81. 
 
 Bonnet-frames, size for, 32R, 327. 
 Bookbinders' lacquer, 210, 412. 
 Bookbinding, gilding and ornamenting, 410- 
 
 412. 
 Book covers, improvement in the manufacture 
 
 of, 412. 
 Books, glue for, 154. 
 
 to remove stains from, 77. 
 
 Boots and shoes, French process of water- 
 proofing, 385. 
 
 to make water-proof, 322. 
 
 to prevent squeaking in, 322. 
 Bordeaux wines, 230. 
 Borlmetto's gunpowder, 31. 
 Boro-glyceride, 405, 406. 
 
 Boro-glycerine, for preserving organic sub- 
 stances, 310. 
 Boro-tartrate for preserving meat, etc., 
 
 310. 
 
 Biittger, process for nitro-glycerine, 29. 
 Biittger's process of making petroleum clear as 
 water without distilling, 252. 
 
 water-glass and lime cement, 382. 
 Bottle-glass, 142, 143. 
 Bottles, manufacture of, from paper, 455. 
 
 transparent lacquer for closing, 21 J. 
 Bouilhet and (Jhristofle, recipe for nickel alloy, 
 
 5. 
 
 Bouquets, 284. 
 Bouquet soap, 331. 
 Brass, bath for nickelling, K>9. 
 
 black bronze on, 46. 
 
 coatings, salts for, 114. 
 
 cold black stain for, 413. 
 
 dead black bronze on, 48. 
 
 fire-proof bronze on, 45. 
 
 for turned articles, 7. 
 
 gold and orange stain for, 414. 
 
 hard solder, 337. 
 
 malleable, receipt for, 241. 
 
 phosphorizing, 442, 443. 
 
 steel-blue bronze on, 46. 
 
 to cleanse, 415. 
 
 to coat wire with, 114. 
 
 very tenacious, 241. 
 
 with zinc and copper, 7. 
 Brasses, anti-friction, 7. 
 
 table of metal for, 406. 
 Bread for horse-feed, 130. 
 Breslau bitter cordial, 18, 19. 
 Brewing beer, 221-226. 
 
 improved processes of, 222. 
 Brewers' pitch, 223. 
 Brianchon's process of painting glass, etc., 
 
 137. 
 
 Brick and stone walls, to protect from moist- 
 ure, 164. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 465 
 
 Brick masonry made impervious to water, 
 55. 
 
 work, cheap paint for, 263, 264. 
 Bricks, enamelled, 415, 416. 
 
 red wash for, 264. 
 
 size and weight of, 55. 
 Bridges, iron, to protect from rust, 243. 
 Bright lustre, 91. 
 Brise-rocs, by Robaudi, 30. 
 Bristles, to bleach, '37. 
 
 substitute for, 174. 
 Britannia metal, bath for nickelling, 109. 
 
 metal, Koller's preparation of, 3. 
 
 metal, solder for, 339. 
 Brocade, to wash, 362. 
 Bronze alloy, platinum, 5. 
 
 aluminium, 404. 
 
 at time of Louis XIV., 7. 
 
 black, 46. 
 
 blue, 46. 
 
 brown, 46. 
 
 Chinese, 44. 
 
 color for direct printing upon paper, oil- 
 cloth, etc., 190, 191. 
 
 colors, substitute for gum-Arabic in mak- 
 ing, 48. 
 
 fire-proof, 45. 
 
 for cocks, 8. 
 
 for medals, 8. 
 
 for objects of art, 7. 
 
 for ornaments, 8. 
 
 for plaster of Paris figures, 45. 
 
 for rivets, 8. 
 
 gold, on iron, 46. 
 
 green, for brass, 44. 
 
 lacquer, 210. 
 
 manganese, 6, 405. 
 
 monuments, 48, 49. 
 
 phosphor, 404, 405. 
 
 phosphorizing, 442, 443. 
 
 powder, copper colored, 45. 
 
 powders, 45. 
 
 red, for turned articles, 8. 
 
 statuary, 8. 
 
 surface on iron, process for producing, 
 
 Walker's, 46. 
 Bronzes, aluminium, 4. 
 
 Chinese and Japanese, 7. 
 
 commercial, 45. 
 
 for castings, 8. 
 Bronzing and coloring of metals, 44-49. 
 
 copper, 413. 
 
 gilding, silvering, 412-415. 
 
 Gourlier's salt mixtures for, 114. 
 
 green, 414. 
 
 in Paris mint, 44. 
 
 liquids, Graham's, 47, 48. 
 
 on iron, new process of, 414. 
 
 willow-ware, 460. 
 Brown bronze, 46. 
 
 crayons, 79. 
 
 dyes, test for, 3. 
 Brunswick black, 267. 
 Brush, for marking boxes, 201. 
 Brushes, paint, 260. 
 
 paint, to cleanse, 76. 
 Buck-horn jelly, 85. 
 Buffalo-skin, as substitute for horn, 178. 
 Building materials, 415, 416. 
 30 
 
 Building materials, artificial stones, mortars, 
 etc., 49-55. 
 
 materials, fire-resisting properties of, 415. 
 
 stone, artificial, 49. 
 
 stones, 51. 
 
 Burgundy wines, 230. 
 
 Busks for corsets, artificial whalebone for, 178. 
 Busts, composition for, 62. 
 
 marble, to cleanse, 78. 
 Butcher's fire-extinguishing powder, 124. 
 Butter, artificial, 130-133. 
 
 rancid, to purify, 168. 
 
 to distinguish genuine from artificial, 3. 
 
 to pack for ocean transportation, 312. 
 
 to preserve, 312. 
 
 Vienna, 133. 
 Buttons, compound for, 43. 
 
 from pulverized leather, 176. 
 
 from waste of horn, 44. 
 
 to color with aniline colors, 184, 
 
 to dye, 183, 184. 
 
 Caf(, crgme du, 83. 
 Calamus liqueur, 19. 
 
 tincture, 14. 
 Calcium acetate, 187. 
 
 and sodium glyceroborates, 406, 407. 
 
 chloride, concentration of vinegar with, 
 358. 
 
 silicate, use of in fixing mordants on cot- 
 ton prints, linens, etc., 379. 
 Calf-kid, manufacture of in Philadelphia. 214, 
 
 215. 
 Calf leather, with a white flesh-side, smooth, 
 
 217. 
 
 Calfskin, gilding on, 412. 
 Callograph, Jacobsen's, 88. 
 Cameos, how to produce, 202. 
 Camphor and sulphur soap, 331. 
 
 ice, 294. 
 
 liniments, 167. 
 
 powdered, 298. 
 
 soap, 331. 
 Canaster tobacco, 350. 
 Candied cherries, 83, 84. 
 
 fruits, 84. 
 
 oranges, 84. 
 Candle materials, coloring, 172. 
 Candles, bleaching of paraffine and similar 
 substances for manufacture of, 447. 
 
 colored firework, 124. 
 
 "Melanyl,"171. 
 
 stearine, cheap mode of making, 173. 
 
 tallow, Junemann's process of making, 
 172, 173. 
 
 tallow, to coat with a hard substance, 171, 
 172. 
 
 wax, 388. 
 
 wick-consuming, 172, 173. 
 
 wicks for, 171. 
 
 Cane-heads, composition for, 183. 
 Canes, walking, stain for, 392. 
 ^-ned vegetables, new process of greening, 
 
 Cantharides, ointment, 166. 
 
 Canvas, cordage, etc., to preserve, 169. 
 
 paint for, 263. 
 Caoutchouc blackings, 320. 
 
 cements, 61. 
 
 cement, transparent, 61. 
 
466 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Caoutchouc composition for sharpening and 
 polishing knives, 60. 
 
 dried, to remove stickiness from, 60. 
 
 how to color green or black, 60. 
 
 impregnating cloth with, 385. 
 
 lubricant, 232. 
 
 lubricant for driving-belts, 436. 
 
 metallized, 60. 
 
 new substitute for, 417, 418. 
 
 oil, 320. 
 
 solutions for photographers, 299. 
 
 substitute for, 61, 62, 182. 
 
 vulcanized cement for, 60. 
 
 vulcanized, utilization of waste of, 60. 
 Capsules, gelatine, 296. 
 Capuchin cordial, 19. 
 
 Caramel sugar bon-bons with soft filling, 81. 
 Caraway essence, 14. 
 Carboazotine, 29, 30. 
 Carbolic acid paper, 275. 
 
 preparation of lustre-colors with, 422. 
 Carbon, bisulphide of, to purify, 77. 
 
 bisulphide of, used in determining oils in 
 seeds, 1. 
 
 Xncils, manufacture of, 430, 431. 
 non, extract, 14. 
 Cardinal de Rome, 19. 
 
 water, 19. 
 
 Carding engines, oil for, 234. 
 Cards, enamel for, 421. 
 
 to gild and silver, 91. 
 Carlsbad water, artificial, 294. 
 Carminative cordial, 19. 
 Carmine and lake pigments, 268. 
 
 indigo, 184, 185. 
 
 indigo, to make, 269. 
 Carpets, Clark's wash for, 366. 
 Carriage lacquers, 214. 
 Carrot bon-bons, 81. 
 Cartridges, blasting, 424. 
 
 for extinguishing fire, 124. 
 
 Cartridge shells of easily combustible sub- 
 stances, 33. 
 
 Cartwright's tooth powder, 94. 
 Carved work, to polish, 209, 210. 
 Case-hardening compound, 240. 
 Caseine cements, 65. 
 Cast-iron, substitute for, 176. 
 
 tinning of, 113, 114. 
 
 to enamel, 115, 116. 
 
 to harden, 238. 
 
 welding to steel, 238. 
 Cast-steel, to restore burnt, 238. 
 Castings, cement for repairing, 64. 
 
 copper, dense and flexible, 242. 
 
 mitis, 441. 
 
 to obtain smooth, 240. 
 
 wro ught-iron, 441. 
 
 Casts, plaster, which can be washed, 308-310. 
 Castor oil, to make, 247. 
 
 Cattle feed, from alcohol and yeast waste, 
 313. 
 
 feed, to prepare, 312. 
 
 liniment, 167. 
 Caustic, lunar, to prepare, 73. 
 
 potash; to purify water with, 72. 
 
 soda-lye, to prepare, 335. 
 
 soda to purify water, 72. 
 Cedar wood, imitation of, 396. 
 Ceilings, plaster for, 416. 
 Celery ratafia, 27. 
 
 Celluloid, caoutchouc, gutta-percha,and similar 
 compositions, 58-63. 
 
 how to work and treat, 59. 
 
 imitations, substitutes, etc., 416-418. 
 
 new, 59. 
 
 preparation of, 58. 
 
 preparation of, Magnus & Co.'s formula 
 for, 58. 
 
 printing plates, 416, 417. 
 
 substitute for, 43. 
 Cellulose dynamite, 29. 
 Cement, artificial, Schottler's, 52. 
 
 blood and ash, 65. 
 
 for glass retorts, 63. 
 
 Chinese blood, 65. 
 
 Davy's universal, 64. 
 
 fire and water-proof, 63. 
 
 for aquaria, 64. 
 
 for fastening iron in stone, 64. 
 
 for fastening rubber upon metal, 64. 
 
 for filling teeth, 68, 69. 
 
 for horses' hoofs, 61. 
 
 for injured trees, 69. 
 
 for iron stoves, 66. 
 
 for ivory and bone, 65. 
 
 for leaky barrels, 66. 
 
 for leather, 65. 
 
 for leather belts, 64. 
 
 for meerschaum, 65. 
 
 for mending enamelled dial-plates, 421. 
 
 for petroleum lamps, 65. 
 
 for porcelain, 63. 
 
 for repairing defective castings, 64. 
 
 for repairing sandstone, 64. 
 
 for rubber combs, 61. 
 
 for rubber shoes and boots, 61. 
 
 for steam-pipes, 63. 
 
 for stone troughs, 64. 
 
 for tortoise shell, 65. 
 
 for vulcanized caoutchouc, 60. 
 
 for wooden vats, 64. 
 
 from blast-furnace slag, 51, 52. 
 
 glycerine, 65. 
 
 gutta-percha and linseed oil, 61. 
 
 hard and durable, 52. 
 
 hydraulic water-glass, 382. 
 
 iron to iron, 63. 
 
 jewellers', 66. 
 
 mastic, 63. 
 
 substitute for, 176. 
 
 to harden, 52. 
 
 water-glass, for glass and porcelain, 382. 
 
 water-glass, with zinc and pyrolusite, 382. 
 
 white, 52. 
 
 work, 418. 
 
 work, weather-proof, 418. 
 
 Cementing cracked bottles with water-glass, 
 382. 
 
 of metals, 116, 117. 
 Cements, caoutchouc, 61. 
 
 colors, enamels, glue, varnishes, water- 
 proofing substances, etc., 421-423. 
 
 for fastening metal letters upon glass, 
 marble, etc., 64. 
 
 gutta-percha, 61. 
 
 pastes, and putties, 63-69. 
 
 water-glass, 381, 382. 
 
 water-glass and caseine, for glass and 
 porcelain, 382. 
 
 water-glass and lime, 382. 
 Cerate, lead, 167. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 46f 
 
 Chalk, artificial, 174. 
 
 precipitated, preparation of, for tooth 
 ' powder, 446. 
 Chalks, blue, 79. 
 Chamois skins, dyeing, 217. 
 Champagne from fruits and berries, 157, 158. 
 
 powder, 157. 
 
 wines, 230. 
 
 Champagnes, artificial, 230, 231. 
 Charcoal, animal, furnace for continuous manu- 
 facture of, 444, 445. 
 
 animal, to detect adulterations in, 1. 
 
 tooth powder, 95. 
 Chartreuse, 19. 
 Cheese, English Stilton, 129. 
 Cheltenham salts, 294. 
 
 Chemical and techno-chemical expedients, 
 preparations, 70-75. 
 
 bronze, Walker's, 46. 
 
 test of written documents, 201. 
 Cherries, candied, 83, 84. 
 Cherry cordial, 19, 20. 
 
 extract, 14. 
 
 liqueur, 19. 
 
 marmalade, 84, 85 
 
 sweetmeat, 82. 
 
 water, 14. 
 
 wine, 159. 
 
 Chestnuts, coated, 83. 
 Chicken feathers, utilization of, 166. 
 Chilblains, remedy for, 160. 
 Children, milk foods for, 132. 
 Chinese blood cement, 65. 
 
 bronze, 44. 
 
 bronze, imitations of, 7. 
 
 bronzes, 7. 
 
 drying oil, 248. 
 
 liqueur, 26. 
 
 lozenges, 84. 
 
 silver alloy, 7. 
 
 silver, preferable to pure or German silver 
 for utensils, 7. 
 
 varnish, 208. 
 
 Chip-hats, to wash, 366, 367. 
 Christofle and Bouilhet, recipe for nickel 
 
 alloys, 5. 
 Chlorine, fumigating with, 293. 
 
 gas, to prepare, 72. 
 Chloride of gold, to prepare, 73. 
 
 of silver and gelatine emulsion, 298. 
 
 of sulphur ointment, 166. 
 
 of zinc, to prepare, 72. 
 Chocolade, creme du, S3. 
 Chocolate and cocoa, 55-58. 
 essence, 14. 
 
 hygienic, 57. 
 
 Iceland moss, 57. 
 
 iron, 57. 
 
 liqueur, 20. 
 
 lozenges, 57. 
 
 machines for manufacture of, 55, 66. 
 
 Milan, 57. 
 
 ordinary, 56. 
 
 Paris, 57. 
 
 Spanish spiced, 57. 
 
 spiced, 56, 57. 
 
 sweetmeat, 81. 
 
 Vienna, 57. 
 
 white, 58. 
 
 with carbonate of iron, 57. 
 
 with meat extract, 57. 
 
 Chrome-red, 269. 
 
 yellow, 269, 270. 
 Chromium glue, 67. 
 Chrysolite, formula for, 11. 
 Chrysoprase, dark, formula for, 10. 
 
 formula for, 10, 11. 
 
 light, formula for, 11. 
 Chrysorine, composition and use of, 3. 
 Cider, 158. 
 Cigarette paper, 274. 
 Cigars, perfumes for, 354. 
 Cinnabar, imitation of, 421, 422. 
 Cinnamon essence, 14. 
 
 sweetmeat, 82. 
 Circassian tooth powder, 95. 
 Citrate of magnesium, 296. 
 Citronat ratafia, 26. 
 Citronelle, 20. 
 Claret ratafia, 26. 
 Clarifying of beer, 222, 223. 
 
 of varnishes and liquids, 205. 
 
 olive oil, 449. 
 
 slime in sugar houses, white or black pig- 
 ment from, 376. 
 
 the glue, 151. 
 Clay plaster, 53. 
 Clay, substitute for, 176. 
 Cleaning compound for cloth, 419. 
 
 glass, silverware, and marble, 420, 421. 
 
 powder for show windows, 419. 
 
 smoky walls, 421. 
 
 Cleansing and washing clothes with the Pana- 
 ma essence, 368. 
 
 brass, 415. 
 
 cotton and other vegetable fibres, 34. 
 
 fluid for tissues, 368. 
 
 mixture for glass plates, 298, 299. 
 
 oil paintings, 257. 
 
 polishing, and renovating agents, 76-78, 
 419-421. 
 
 rags for polishing metal, 419. 
 
 silk, cloth, and hats, 76. 
 
 silver dial plates, 42. 
 
 wash leather, 419. 
 
 woollen tissues, 35, 36. 
 Cloth as a substitute for leather, 383. 
 
 cleaning compound, 419. 
 
 down, 345. 
 
 impregnating with caoutchouc, 385. 
 
 Johnson's varnish for water-proofing, 423. 
 
 oil, 345, 346. 
 
 water proof, which is not impervious to the 
 
 air, 383. 
 Cloths, red, cleansing salt for, 365. 
 
 scouring soap for, 76. 
 Clove essence, 14. 
 Coach varnishing, 212-214. 
 Coal and rosin, fuel from, 137. 
 Coal ashes and blood, black pigment from, 267. 
 Coal ashes, manure from, 169. 
 Coal dust fuel, 137. 
 
 Coal-tar, ammoniacal liquor from, utilization 
 of, 373, 374. 
 
 blacksmiths' pitch from, 257. 
 
 for printing ink, 190. 
 
 lampblack from the resinous sodic residues 
 of, 372. 
 
 manures from the residues of, 373. 
 
 naphtha, test of, 254, 255. 
 
 oil, process of producing in England, 266, 
 257. 
 
468 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Coal-tar oils, shoemakers' wax from, 257. 
 
 oil, to deodorize, 252. 
 
 varnish oil, 190, 256. 
 
 varnish oil, lubricating oils from, 234. 
 
 varnish oil, varnishes with, 212. 
 
 waste, lampblack from, 370-372. 
 Coated chestnuts, 83. 
 
 filberts, 83. 
 
 orange blossoms, 84. 
 Cobalt, 111. 
 
 blue for crayons, 79. 
 
 electroplating metal with, 111. 
 Cochineal syrup, 136. 
 Cockroaches, to destroy, 162. 
 Cocks, bronze for, 8. 
 Cocoa and chocolate, 65-58. 
 Cocoanut oil and molasses soap, 329, 330. 
 
 oil soap, 328, 329. 
 Cocoa ratafia, 26. 
 Cod-liver-oil and iodide of iron, 294, 295. 
 
 to disguise the taste of, 166, 296. 
 Coffee and tea trays, to clean, 78. 
 
 essence, 14. 
 
 malt as a substitute for, 167. 
 
 substitute for, 169. 
 
 to regain the volatile products developed in 
 
 roasting, 377, 378. 
 Cognac, artificial, 227. 
 
 essence, 14. 
 
 manufacture of, 227. 
 Coignet's artificial stone, 49. 
 Coin metal, 8. 
 Coke ovens, to preserve the ammonia, tar, and 
 
 other products from, 374, 376. 
 Cold tinning, 114. 
 
 water soap, 329. 
 
 Colds and asthma, balsam for, 294. 
 Collodion emulsion, 306. 
 
 for plant slips, 165. 
 
 glycerine, 295. 
 
 styptic, 295. 
 
 varnish for water-proofing fabrics, prepa- 
 
 ration of, 383. 
 Cologne waters, 282. 
 Colombat elixir, 17. 
 
 Colored chalks (crayons), pencils, and inks for 
 marking linen, etc., 78-80. 
 
 designs upon glass, 145. 
 
 enamels, 117. 
 
 fluids for paper and foils, 202. 
 
 glass, compositions for, 144, 145. 
 
 indelible inks, 80. 
 
 sands, 201. 
 Coloring materials for wood, 391, 392. 
 
 metals, 46, 47. 
 
 substances for cordials, bitters, etc., 12, 
 
 13. 
 
 Colorless varnish, 210. 
 Colors, artists', 271, 272. 
 
 enamels, cements, glue, varnishes, water- 
 proofing substances, etc., 421-423. 
 
 fireproof, 454. 
 
 for painting, receipts for, 262, 263. 
 
 fusible, for porcelain painting, 137-141. 
 
 grinding of, 260. 
 
 lustre, preparation of with carbolic acid, 
 422. 
 
 new, on wood, 398, 399. 
 
 printing, German patent, 190. 
 
 printing in, 86, 87. 
 
 sympathetic, 273. 
 
 Colors, water, 272, 273. 
 
 Combs, horn, manufacture of, 435. 
 
 horn, to make elastic, 446. 
 Combustion, spontaneous, experiments with 
 
 oils in regard to, 438. 
 Commercial bronzes, 46. 
 Composition for billiard balls, 62. 
 
 for ornaments, etc., 62. 
 
 for picture frames, 62. 
 
 for razor strops, 63. 
 
 for rollers, 62. 
 Compound for buttons, dice, etc., 43. 
 
 water-glass, preparations of, 378, 379. 
 Compressed yeast, to make, 227-229. 
 Concrete marble, 54. 
 Condensed milks, 132. 
 Conductors, electrical, insulating material for. 
 
 417. 
 
 Confectionery, 80-86. 
 Cooking utensils, tinning of, 114. 
 Copal varnish, to make, 202-205, 208. 
 
 varnishes with coal-tar varnish oils, 212. 
 Copper alloys, 7, 8. 
 
 as a solder for iron, 337. 
 
 bath for nickelling, 109. 
 
 bronzing on, 413. 
 
 castings, dense and flexible, 242. 
 
 cold silvering of, 112, 113. 
 
 fireproof bronze on, 45. 
 
 gilding of, by boiling, 111. 
 
 plate engravings, to bleach, 37. 
 
 platinum and palladium alloy, 403. 
 
 steel, receipt for, 242. 
 
 sulphate of, to prepare, 74. 
 
 to give it a durable lustre, 46. 
 
 to weld, 241. 
 
 vessels, to enamel, 116. 
 Coppering bath for iron or steel articles, 115. 
 
 galvanic, Gourlier's salt mixture for, 114. 
 Copying, 423. 
 
 and printing, 86-89. 
 
 drawings in black lines on white ground, 
 
 inks] 193, 196-198. 
 
 paper, that can be washed, 276. 
 
 polygraphic method of, 87, 88. 
 Corals, to dye imitations of, 105. 
 Cordage, to preserve, 169. 
 Cordial, Angelica, Ib. 
 
 anisette, 17. 
 
 anise seed, 17. 
 
 aromatic, 18. 
 
 Breslau bitter, 18, 19. 
 
 capuchin, 19. 
 
 carminative, 19. 
 
 cherry, 19, 20. 
 
 cumin, 20. 
 
 kiimmel, 20. 
 
 orange-peel, 23. 
 
 peach, 23. 
 
 peppermint, 23. 
 
 quince, 23. 
 
 quittico, 23. 
 
 rosemary, 23, 24. 
 
 Swiss, 25. 
 
 Tivoli, 25. 
 
 vanilla, 25. 
 
 wormwood, 25. 
 Cordials, bitters, liqueurs, and ratafias, 17-27. 
 
 coloring substances for, 12, 13. 
 
 liqueurs, etc., mode of coloring, 12. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Cordova blacking, 320. 
 Cork, gas from, 170. 
 
 paper, 275. 
 
 stone, 415. 
 
 waste, utilization of in the manufacture of. 
 
 vinegar, 358. 
 Corks, rubber, to cut and pierce, 164. 
 
 rubber, to restore, 377. 
 Corn oil from corn ma<h, 251. 
 Corns, remedy for, 160. 
 Corset busks, artificial whalebone for, 178. 
 Cosmetic and medicated waters, 290-292. 
 
 powders, rouges, 292. 
 Cosmoline, to prepare, 248, 249. 
 Cotton and linen goods, finishing of by water- 
 glass, 380. 
 
 and muslin prints, to wash without injury 
 to the colors, 368. 
 
 and silk goods, soap for removing stains 
 from, 76. 
 
 and vegetable fibres, cleansing of, 34. 
 
 fabrics, to t;m, 220. 
 
 goods and yarns, 20. 
 
 goods, sizing for, 32'2, 323. 
 
 goods with woven borders, to bleach, 34. 
 Cotton, gun, 32. 
 Cotton piece goods, to bleach, 34. 
 
 prints, dressing for, 325, 326. 
 Cotton-seed hulls, utilizing, 451. 
 
 oil in olive oil, 1. 
 
 oil, manufacture of, 449, 450. 
 
 oil, production of soap and sebacic acids 
 from crude, 451. 
 
 oil, refining, 251, 451. 
 
 Cotton tissues, to compress and give more 
 lustre to, 345. 
 
 to bleach as it comes from the spinning- 
 machine, 34. 
 
 to gild, 91, 92. 
 
 wool, and silk, to dye with aniline colors, 
 100-105. 
 
 yarns and tissues, Banes' and Grisdale's 
 method for bleaching, 34. 
 
 yarn, size for, 325. 
 Cowles' electric furnace, 440, 441. 
 Crambambuli, 20. 
 Cramer's process of preparing pressed yeast 
 
 from beer yeast, 402. 
 Crape, white silk, to wash, 363. 
 Crayons, black, 79. 
 
 brown, 79. 
 
 crimson, 79. 
 
 green, 79. 
 
 materials, how to select, 78,79. 
 
 red, 79. 
 
 white, 79. 
 
 yellow, 79. 
 Cream bon-bons, 81. 
 
 of tartar, to prepare, 73. 
 
 shaving, 446, 447. 
 
 walnuts, 81. 
 Creams, soap, 332, 333. 
 Creme du cafe, 83. 
 
 du chocolade, 83. 
 
 Fondant, 85. 
 
 ground mass for, 85. 
 Creosote ointment, It56. 
 
 to prepare from wood-tar oil, 255. 
 Creuzburg's process of making water-glass 
 paint more durable than oil or varnish, 
 381. 
 
 Crimson crayons, 79. 
 dye starch, 365. 
 
 Crock, W. G., process for detecting artificial 
 butter, 3. 
 
 Crocus vernus, adulteration of saffron with, 2. 
 
 Crown glass, 143. 
 
 Cryolite glass, 142. 
 
 Crystal glass, 142. 
 
 Crystalline coating for wood or paper, 421. 
 
 Crystallized indigo, 184. 
 
 Cumin cordial, 20. 
 essence, 14. 
 liqueur, 20. 
 
 Cupro-ammonium for rendering paper and 
 textile fabrics water-, rot-, and insect- 
 proof, 453, 454. 
 
 Curafoa, 20. 
 French, 20. 
 Holland, 20. 
 
 Currant wine, 159. 
 
 Currier's black gloss, 215. 
 
 Cutlery, fluid for hardening, 240. 
 
 Cyanide of potassium, from nitrogeneous or- 
 ganic substances, 377. 
 
 Cyanotype, 87. 
 
 Cyclostyle, the, 88, 89. 
 
 Cypre, eau de, 21. 
 
 D'Absynth CitronnS, eau, 21. 
 D' Amour parfait, 23. 
 Damask, genuine, 89. 
 
 imitation of, 89. 
 
 silk, to wash, 362. 
 Damaskeening steel, 89. 
 
 steel with gold or silver, 89. 
 Damp walls, glue for, 235. 
 
 walls, how to dry, 54. 
 
 walls, plaster for, 53. 
 Damson wine, 159. 
 Danzig crambambuli, 20. 
 Darcet's metal, 337. 
 Dauphin, eau de, 21. 
 
 David's new process for bleaching, 38, 39. 
 Davy's universal cement, 64. 
 Dead black bronze on brass, 48. 
 Dead lustre, 91 . 
 Debray on the effect of iron in aluminium, 
 
 Decoration, ornamentation, etc., 89-94. 
 Decorations, to make incombustible, 124. 
 
 wood-tar for, 93. 
 Denninger's process of staining wood for fine 
 
 cabinet work, 391. 
 Density of alloys, 405. 
 Dental purposes, alloys for, 6. 
 Dentifrice, Asiatic, 94. 
 
 Quillaya, 95. 
 
 Dentifrices and mouth washes, 94, 95. 
 Depilation of hides, 215, 216. 
 Deschamp's tooth powders, 94. 
 Designs, to copy, 86, 
 De Soulages and Cahuc, process for carboa- 
 
 zotine, 29, 30. 
 
 Detection of water in essential oils, 449. 
 Developer, alkaline gelatine, 298. 
 
 for photographic dry plates, 301. 
 
 Sutton's new, 306. 
 Developers, photographic, for hot weather, 
 
 306, 307. 
 Dextrine and sugar in malt, 221. 
 
 milk adulterated with, 2. 
 
470 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Dextrine, to prepare, 325. 
 Dextrose, 341,342. 
 
 Dial-plates, enamelled, cement for mending, 
 421. 
 
 silvered, to cleanse, 421. 
 Dials, watch, enamel for, 117. 
 Diamond glue, best quality, 66, 67. 
 Dice, compound for, 43. 
 Dictamia, composition of, 129. 
 Disinfectants, 163, 164. 
 Dittmar's dualin, 29. 
 Documents, chemical test of written, 201. 
 
 papers for, 274. 
 Dolls' heads, mass for, 62, 63. 
 Dominos, compound for, 43. 
 Donault-Wieland's flux, 10. 
 Dougal's powder for purifying air in stables. 
 
 168. 
 Doumesnil's process of platinizing metals, 110, 
 
 111. 
 
 Down cloth, 345. 
 
 Drawing-paper that can be washed, 276. 
 Drawings, lacquer for, 211. 
 
 new method of copying, 423, 424. 
 
 to copy, 86. 
 
 to copy in black lines on white ground, 87. 
 
 to duplicate, 86. 
 
 to make black and colored on ivory, 42. 
 Dressing cotton prints, 325, 326. 
 
 for dancing shoes, 320. 
 
 for Panama hats, 326. 
 
 for shoes free from sulphuric acid, 320. 
 Dried caoutchouc, to remove stickiness from, 
 
 60. 
 Drops, peppermint, 84. 
 
 punch, 84. 
 Dryers for oil colors and varnish, 266. 
 
 receipts for, 266. 
 Drying oil, 266. 
 
 oil, Chinese, 248. 
 
 wood, new method of, 397. 
 Dry pocket paste, 68. 
 Dualin, Dittmar's, 29. 
 Dupasquier's process of preparing bone glue 
 
 as a substitute for isinglass, 155, 156. 
 Durability of mine timbers, 395, 396. 
 Durable paste, 69. 
 Dutch Musino snuff, 353. 
 Dye, new, from shoots of poplar tree, 107. 
 
 starch, 365. 
 
 Dyeing and printing, inspissation for, 323, 
 324. 
 
 bone and ivory, 41 
 Tur 
 106, 107. 
 
 cotton yarn Turkey red with alizarine, 
 
 leather, 217-221. 
 
 naturally white skins, 220. 
 
 rabbit skins, 219. 
 
 sheepskins, 219, 220. 
 
 straw, 455, 456. 
 
 woollen and cotton goods and yarns, silk, 
 straw hats, felt hats, kid gloves, horse- 
 hair, etc., etc., 107. 
 
 wool, silk, and cotton with aniline colors, 
 
 100-105. 
 Dyes for straws, 456. 
 
 hair, 289, 290. 
 
 testing of, for adulteration, 3. 
 Dynamite, A. Nobel's process, 29. 
 
 by Anthoine and Genaud, 29. 
 
 cellulose, 29. 
 
 Dynamite, frozen, 30. 
 giant, 31. 
 gun-cotton, gunpowder, nitroglycerine, 
 
 fulminates, etc., 27-34. 
 Norbin and Ohllson's patent, 29. 
 properties of, 29. 
 Sobrero's process, 29. 
 
 Earthenware, fire and water-proof cement for, 
 
 63. 
 
 glazes for, 146. 
 to give it a marbled or granite appearance, 
 
 varnish for, 208. 
 Eau Americaine, 20. 
 
 D'Amour, 21. 
 
 D'Absynth Citronnfi, 21. 
 
 D'Ardelle, 21. 
 
 D'Argent, 21. 
 
 d'Or, 21. 
 
 d'Orient, 21. 
 
 de Cologne, 282. 
 
 de Cypre, 21. 
 
 de Dauphin, 21. 
 
 de Lavande Ambra, 282. 
 
 de Napoleon, 21. 
 
 de Paradise, 22. 
 
 de Paris, 282. 
 
 de Sant6, 22. 
 
 de Sept Graines, 22. 
 
 des Alpes, 282. 
 
 des Princesses, 22. 
 
 precieuse, 22. 
 
 royal, 22. 
 Ebony, artificial, 177. 
 
 stains, 393. 
 Edinburgh ink, 196. 
 Edison's electric pen, 88. 
 Effervescing vinegar, 361. 
 Egg syrup, 136. 
 Eggs, to preserve, 312, 313. 
 
 yelks of in tawing, to preserve, 217. 
 Elaeosaccharum, 80. 
 Elaine soap, 329. 
 Elastic lacquer, 211. 
 Elderberry ointment, 166. 
 
 wine, 159. 
 
 Elder blossoms, extract of, 166. 
 Electrical conductors, insulating material for, 
 
 417. 
 Electric furnace, Cowles', 440, 441. 
 
 pen, Edison's, 88. 
 Electricity, 110. 
 Electro-plating, galvanpplasty, gilding, nick- 
 
 elling, silvering, tinning, etc., 107-115. 
 Elemi ointment, 166. 
 Elixir, Abb6, 16. 
 
 Angel, 17. 
 
 Colombat, 17. 
 
 de St. Aur, 17. 
 
 des Troubadours, 17. 
 
 juniper, 17. 
 
 Monpou, 17. 
 
 of life, 17. 
 
 Tabourey, 17. 
 
 vital, 17. 
 Elixirs, 16, 17. 
 Email photographs, 300. 
 Embossing, preparation of surfaces for, 345. 
 Embroidered fabrics woven with gold, to wash, 
 364. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 471 
 
 Embroidered linen, to wash, 364. 
 
 muslin, to wash, 364. 
 Embroideries, pearl, to wash. 366. 
 Embroidery, silver, to polish, 3G4. 
 Emerald, formula for, 10. 
 
 green for gems, formula of, 10. 
 Emery paper, 278, 279. 
 Emulsion, for photographers, 298. 
 
 sensitive collodion, 306. 
 Emulsions, gelatine, photographic, 300. 
 Enamel, arsenical, 144. 
 
 for fine cards, etc., 421. 
 
 for sheet-iron, 116. 
 
 for watch dials, 117. 
 
 free from lead and metallic oxides for iron 
 and sheet-iron, and utensils manufact- 
 ured from them, 422. 
 
 glass for iron, 118. 
 
 opaque white, 118. 
 
 phosphorescent, 422. 
 
 tin, 144. 
 Enamelled bricks, 415, 416. 
 
 dial-plates, cement for mending, 421. 
 
 photographs, 300. 
 
 Enamelling and cementing of metals, etc.. 
 116, 117. 
 
 cast-iron utensils, 115, 116. 
 
 of copper Vessels, 116. 
 
 of iron, 116. 
 
 of pasteboard, 277. 
 Enamels and enamelling, 115-118. 
 
 colors, cements, glue, varnishes, water- 
 proofing substances, etc., 421-423. 
 
 colors for, 117, 118. 
 
 imitations of, 17'.). 
 English bitters, 22. 
 
 bitteis essence, 14. 
 
 bitters ratafia, 26. 
 
 copper alloys, 7, 8. 
 
 inks, 196. 
 
 method of varnishing coaches, 212-214. 
 
 Stilton cheese, 129. 
 Engraving on glass, 145. 
 Engravings, to copy, 86. 
 Erasing powder, 295. 
 Esprit de Pachouli, 282. 
 
 de rose triple, 282. 
 
 de toilette Francaise, 282, 283. 
 Essence, ambergris, 13. 
 
 angelica, 13. 
 
 anise-seed, 13. 
 
 Barbadoes, 13. 
 
 bergamot, 13. 
 
 bouquet, 283. 
 
 chocolate, 14. 
 
 cinnamon, 14. 
 
 clove, 14. 
 
 coffee, 14. 
 
 cognac, 14. 
 
 cumin and caraway, 14. 
 
 de Gpudron, 231. 
 
 English bitter, 14. 
 
 extracts, tinctures, and waters, 13-16. 
 
 fennel, 14. 
 
 gold water, 14, 15. 
 
 herb cordial, 15. 
 
 juniper berry, 15. 
 
 lavender, 15. 
 
 lemon, 15. 
 
 marjoram, 15. 
 
 musk, 15. 
 
 Essence, nut, 15. 
 
 nutmeg, 15. 
 
 Panama, for washing, 368. 
 
 Parfait d' Amour, 15. 
 
 peach, 15. 
 
 peppermint, 16. 
 
 quince, 16. 
 
 rose, 16. 
 
 rosemary, 16. 
 
 sage, 16. 
 
 Spanish bitter, 16. 
 
 vanilla, 16. 
 
 wormwood, 16. 
 
 Essential oils, detection of water in, 449. 
 Estragon vinegar, 361. 
 Etching ground, printing ink which can be 
 
 ink for glass, 431. 
 
 on glass, 147. 
 Ether, acetic, to prepare, 358. 
 
 naphtha, 170. 
 Eugenie's nosegay, 282. 
 Expedients, preparations, 70-75. 
 Explosive agents, 424-426. 
 
 and pyrotechnic substances, 424. 
 
 combination, 424. . 
 
 substances, 424. 
 
 substances, use of hyponitric acid for, 
 
 425, 426. 
 
 Exterminator, moth and roach, 446. 
 Extract, anise-seed, 13. 
 
 cardamon, 14. 
 
 Koch's herb, 23. 
 
 mace, 13. 
 
 of elder blossoms, 166. 
 
 orange blossom, 15. 
 
 orange peel, 15. 
 
 raspberry, 16. 
 
 soup, 129. 
 
 strawberry, 16. 
 Extracts, 283, 284. 
 
 essences, tinctures, and waters, 13-16. 
 
 malt, 296. 
 Eyes, artificial, manufacture of, 408, 409. 
 
 Fabrics, colored, to give a lustre to, 34f>. 
 
 double, water-proof not impermeable to 
 
 air, 385. 
 
 linen, hempen, and cotton, to tan, 220. 
 metallic lustre upon, 348. 
 new process for water proofing, 385. 
 textile, to render water-, rot-, and insect- 
 proof, 453, 454. 
 textile, to water-proof, 384. 
 textile, to water-proof and give greater con- 
 sistence to, 386. 
 to water-proof and protect against moths, 
 
 386, 387. 
 water-proof and incombustible, new method 
 
 for the production of, 422. 
 woollen, to water-proof, 384. 
 Facon rum, 229. 
 
 Faded manuscripts, to restore, 74, 75. 
 Falcon plumes, 118. 
 Fancy articles, alloy for, 5. 
 Fat, bone, bleaching of, 447. 
 from sheep's wool, 450. 
 of bones, to utilize in the manufacture of 
 
 soap, 250. 
 
 oils, vegetable, French process of cleans- 
 ing, 247. 
 
472 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Fat, to recover from waste wash liquors, 376. 
 377. 
 
 rancid, to purify, 168. 
 Fats, separating and purifying, 255, 256. 
 
 and oils, 247-257, 447-453. 
 
 and oils, bleaching of, 447, 448. 
 
 new process of treating, 334, 335. 
 Faure & French's blasting powder, 32. 
 Feather plush, <?44. 
 Feathers, chicken, utilization of, 165. 
 
 how to restore and dye, 118-li.2. 
 
 to bleach, 119. 
 
 to cleanse, 365. 
 
 to dye with aniline colors, 122. 
 
 to restore crushed and bent, 119. 
 
 to wash, restore, and dye ostrich mara- 
 bouts, etc., 118-122. 
 Fecal substances, to work in a rarefied space, 
 
 376. 
 
 Feed, pressed horse, 129. 
 Felted fabrics, to dye with aniline colors, 103, 
 
 104. 
 
 Felt, to water-proof, and give greater con- 
 sistence to, 384. 
 
 hats, to water-proof, 386. 
 
 substitute for, 176. 
 
 roofing, oil paint for, 52. 
 Female pills, 294. 
 Fennel essence, 14. 
 
 ratafia, 26. 
 
 Fenton's alloy for axle boxes, 7. 
 Fermentation, 222. 
 Ferrocyanide, potassium, 70. 
 Ferrous nitrate syrup, 136. 
 Fibres from nettlos, hemp, jute, etc., to pre- 
 pare, 346, 347. 
 
 vegetable, improved treatment of, 345. 
 
 vegetable, to animalize, 346. 
 
 vegetable, to water-proof, 384. 
 Fibrous substances, to gain from different 
 
 plants, 274. 
 
 Field rats and mice, to destroy, 162. 
 Filberts, coated, 83. 
 
 roasted, 83. 
 Filbert sweetmeat, 82. 
 Files, to cleanse, 76. 
 
 to harden, 239. 
 
 to resharpen, 239, 240. 
 Filling for caramel sugar bon-bons, 81. 
 Filtering, artificial stone for, 71. 
 
 of varnishes, 205, 206. 
 Fire and water-proof cement, 63. 
 
 cartridges for extinguishing, 124. 
 
 extinguishing agents and means of mak- 
 ing tissues, wood, etc., incombustible, 
 122-124. 
 
 extinguishing hand grenades, 124. 
 
 extinguishing powders, Munich and Vi- 
 enna, 123. 
 
 plating for iron, 115. 
 Fire-proof bronze, 45. 
 
 ceilings, mass for, 416. 
 
 floors, mass for, 416. 
 
 papers, colors, and printed matter, 454. 
 
 wood, preparation of, 309. 
 
 resisting properties of building materials, 
 
 415. 
 
 Fires, white, 125. 
 Fireworks, 124-129. 
 
 for rooms, 128. 
 Fish, fluids for preserving, 311. 
 
 Fish oil, new process of extracting, 451. 
 
 to preserve, 313. 
 Fixateur, receipts for, 85, 86. 
 Flaxseed pulp, for clarifying beer, 222, 223. 
 
 yield of oil in, 2. 
 Flax yarn, C. Hartmann's quick method of 
 
 bleaching, 36, 37. 
 Fleas on animals, to destroy, 162. 
 Fleece, to remove oil from, 346. 
 Fleitmann's process of refining nickel, 441. 
 Flexible insulating mass, 417. 
 
 mirrors, 178. 
 Flint glass, 143. 
 Floating soap, 329. 
 Floor covering, new, 445. 
 
 wax, 389. 
 Floors, cheap paint for, 263. 
 
 fire- proof, mass for, 416. 
 
 new compound for waxing, 389. 
 
 stain for, 3U3. 
 Flour, meat, 129. 
 
 potato, for soups, 130. 
 
 potato, to prepare, 157. 
 Flowers, artificial, mass for, 157. 
 
 artificial, paper stains for, 279. 
 
 extraction of perfume from, 282. 
 
 guano solution for, 169 
 
 lacquer for, 209. 
 
 on glass, 94. 
 Fluid hydrastis, 207. 
 
 le Franyois, scouring, 75. 
 
 Saste, 68. 
 s for making tissues incombustible, 123. 
 Flux, Donault-Wieland's, 10. 
 
 for soldering aluminium, 4. 
 
 Schrader's, components of, 9. 
 Fluxes, components of, for artificial gems, 
 9, 10. 
 
 for enamels, preparation of, 117. 
 Fly glue, composition for, 156, 157. 
 
 paper, to prepare, 161. 
 Focal distances for enlarging photographic 
 
 pictures, 299. 
 Foils, gelatine, 181, 182. 
 
 jewellers', 202. 
 
 Folbacci's process of rendering wood incom- 
 bustible and impermeable, 300. 
 Food and food preparations, 129-133. 
 Foods, strengthening, 129. 
 Forcite, 33. 
 Forks, alloys for, 6. 
 Foul air in wells, to remove, 1R8. 
 Fountain, table, to construct, 157. 
 Fournaise's water-proofing compound, 386. 
 Frames, gilding, 90, 91. 
 
 Frame work of old altars, to cleanse and reno- 
 vate, 260. 
 Frankfort black, 267. 
 
 snuff, 354. 
 
 Franzl, process for cellulose dynamite, 29. 
 Frear's artificial stone, 51. 
 Freckles, vinegar to remove, 285. 
 Freezing mixtures, 133, 134. 
 
 salt, 133. 
 French anisette, 17. 
 
 curacoa, 20. 
 
 putty for wood, 67. 
 
 Frohnheiser's method of bleaching cotton, 34. 
 Frosted glass, ornamenting, 434. 
 
 limbs, soap for, 332. 
 Frozen dynamite, 30. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 473 
 
 Frozen ground, to thaw, 70, 71. 
 Fruit and other syrups, 134-1 36. 
 
 -drying apparatus, new, 407. 
 
 jellies, to prevent moulding, 315. 
 
 stains, to remove, 75. 
 
 to dry by cold air blast, 312. 
 
 to pack for transportation, 312. 
 
 wines, 158-1(50. 
 
 wrapping paper for, 276. 
 Fruits, artificial, mass for, 157. 
 
 candied, 84. 
 
 fluids for preserving, 311. 
 
 to keep, in ice-houses, 169. 
 
 to preserve, 314, 315. 
 Fulminate, 33, 34. 
 
 of mercury, 33. 
 
 of silver, 33. 
 Fulminating gold, 34. 
 
 platinum, 33, 34. 
 Fumigating articles, 292-294. 
 Furnace, continuously working, for manufact- 
 ure of animal charcoal, 444, 445. 
 
 Cowles' electric, 440, 441. 
 
 Jesem's glass melting, 9. 
 Furniture glue, 154. 
 
 oak, to cleanse and beautify, 78. 
 
 renovator, 419. 
 
 varnish, 209. 
 
 wax, 389. 
 Furs, to protect, 161. 
 
 to protect from moths, 220. 
 Fusel oil, to destroy, 229, 230. 
 Fusible alloy, 5. 
 
 alloys, lowest melting points of, 6. 
 
 colors used in porcelain painting, 137-141. 
 Fusibility of alloys, 405. 
 Fustic as a yellow dye, 3. 
 
 Galbanum and saffron plaster, 297. 
 
 Gall, beef's, as a varnish on paintings, 259. 
 
 -nut ointment, 166. 
 
 soap, 331. 
 Galvanic coppering, salt mixtures for (Gour- 
 
 lier's), 114. 
 
 Galvanizing and nickelling of iron in Cleve- 
 land, 413. 
 
 iron, new process of, 114. 
 Galvano-plastic deposits, moulds for, 115. 
 
 silvering, 112. 
 Galvanoplasty, 107-115. 
 " Gantein," for cleansing gloves, 75. 
 Garnet, formula for, 11. 
 Garvey's lithomarlite, 51. 
 Gas, chlorine, to prepare, 72. 
 
 from cork. 170. 
 
 from ligroin and air, 171. 
 
 from nitrogeneous organic substances, 377. 
 
 leaks, to detect, 171. 
 
 lighter, automatic, 173. 
 
 lime, sulphur and sulphuric acid from, 376. 
 
 meters, dry, 170, 171. 
 
 meters, tissue for, 170, 171. 
 
 pipes from paper, 451. 
 
 purification of, 171. 
 
 Gases, of coke ovens, distillation of, 374, 375. 
 Gauze, silk, 348. 
 
 white, to wash, 3C3. 
 Geitner's alizarine liquor, 187. 
 Gelatine, alchoholic solution of, 298. 
 
 capsules, 296. 
 
 emulsions, photographic, 300. 
 
 Gelatine foils, 181, 182. 
 
 jelly, 85. 
 
 Maclagan's apparatus and process for 
 making, 153. 
 
 plates, developer for, 299. 
 
 to make from glue, 154. 
 
 Gelatinography, for duplicating drawings, 86. 
 Gelatinous nitro-glycerine, 33. 
 Gems, artificial, 9-12. 
 
 artificial, minerals for coloring, 12. 
 
 artificial, Wagner's formula for, 12. 
 German silver solder, 337, 338. 
 
 tree wax, 69. 
 Giant dynamite, 31. 
 
 powder, 32. 
 
 powder, new method of preparing, 425. 
 Gilding and silvering cards, 91. 
 
 and silvering, detection of imitations, 2. 
 
 and silvering leather, 445. 
 
 and silvering silk, cotton and woollen 
 yarns, 92. 
 
 an ornamental frame, 90, 91. 
 
 bronzing, silvering, etc , 412-415. 
 
 copper by boiling, 111. 
 
 cotton, 91, 92. 
 
 glass, 89, 90, 147, 148. 
 
 of steel, 413, 414. 
 
 on wood, 394, 395. 
 
 paper, leather, etc., rosin compound for, 
 411. 
 
 porcelain, 90. 
 
 soap varnish for, 423. 
 
 to restore the lustre of, 260. 
 
 willow-ware, 460. 
 
 wood, Italian method of, 90, 92. 
 Ginger beer, 160. 
 
 lozenges, 84. 
 
 ratafia, 26. 
 
 wine, 159. 
 
 Gin, Holland, receipt for, 229. 
 Glace photographs, 300. 
 Glass, 426-435. 
 
 alabaster, 144. 
 
 and metals, painting with water-glass, 381. 
 
 and other signs, 147-149. 
 
 and porcelain, water-glass and caseine 
 cement for, 382. 
 
 and porcelain, water-glass cement for, 382, 
 
 aventurine, 144. 
 
 black and colored lead-pencils for, 432. 
 
 blowing, by means of compressed air, 
 426-430. 
 
 Bohemian chalk, 142. 
 
 Bohemian crystal, 142. 
 
 bone, 144. 
 
 caoutchouc cements for, 61. 
 
 colored, composiiions for, 144, 145. 
 
 colored cie-igns on, 145. 
 
 compositions of, as actually used in various 
 glass-works, 142-144. 
 
 composition of colors for and processes 
 for enamelling, engraving, gilding, bend- 
 ing, etc., 141-146. 
 
 compound water, to prepare, 378, 379. 
 
 crown, 143. 
 
 cutting, with a carbon pencil, 430, 431. 
 
 decorating, 92. 
 
 Elli's cryolite, 142. 
 
 enamel for iron, 118. 
 
 engraving on, 145. 
 
 etching ink for, 431. 
 
474 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Glass, etching on, 147. 
 
 flint, 143. 
 
 for bottles, 141-143. 
 
 for champagne bottles, 142. 
 
 French soda, 142. 
 
 frosted, ornamenting, 434. 
 
 gilding and silvering, 147, 148. 
 
 gilding of, 89, 90. 
 
 gutta-percha cements for, 61. 
 
 -headed pins with copper lustre. 431, 
 432. 
 
 impressions of flowers on, 94. 
 
 iridescent, 145. 
 
 lead crystal, 143. 
 
 -like varnish, 210. 
 
 lithium, 432. 
 
 melting furnace, by Th. Jesem, 9. 
 
 new materials for, 145. 
 
 new solder for, 441. 
 
 opal, 144. 
 
 opaque, compositions for, 144. 
 
 pencils for writing on, 79. 
 
 plate, 142. 
 
 plate, manufacture of, 432-434. 
 
 plates, cleansing mixtures for, 298, 299. 
 
 plate, polishing powder for, 77. 
 
 platinizing, 434. 
 
 polishing agents for, 433, 434. 
 
 polishing powder for, 76. 
 
 potash water, to prepare, 378. 
 
 retorts, cement for, 63. 
 
 roofs, to make water-tight, 55. 
 
 semi-white, potash window, 143. 
 
 signs, backing of, 148. 
 
 soda, 142, 143. 
 
 to clean, 420. 
 
 to make opaque or frosted, 92. 
 
 to pulverize, 146. 
 
 toughened, 434, 435. 
 
 to wood, joining, 66. 
 
 transferring photographs to, 434. 
 
 tubes, how to bend, 146. 
 
 water, as a bleaching agent, 379, 380. 
 
 water, characteristics of, 378. 
 
 water, for finishing linen and cotton goods, 
 380. 
 
 water, for silicifying stones, 379. 
 
 water, from infusorial earth, 378. 
 
 water, its uses, 378-382. 
 
 water, Kuhlmann's process, 379. 
 
 water, preparation of fixing, 379. 
 
 window, 142. 
 
 window, substitute for, 178. 
 
 with copper lustre, 431, 432. 
 Glasses and saucers, to cleanse, 76. 
 Glazed almonds, 84. 
 
 papers, stains for, 279, 280. 
 Glaze for beer barrels, 223. 
 
 for common earthenware, 146. 
 
 new, for barrels, vats, etc., 396, 397. 
 Glazes, Berlin white, etc., 146, U7. 
 
 for colored goods, 326. 
 
 for earthenware, 146, 147. 
 
 for metals, 244, 245. 
 
 free from lead, 146. 
 Gloss on wall papers, 323, 324. 
 
 for toilet soaps, 334. 
 
 Gloves, kid, to dye with aniline colors. 104, 
 105. 
 
 preparation for cleansing, 75. 
 
 to cleanse without wetting, 78. 
 
 Glucose, anhydrous, 341. 
 
 sugars, etc., 340-344. 
 
 to remove gypsum from solutions of, 342. 
 Glue and wood putty, 67 
 
 Armenian, 66. 
 
 as a substitute for isinglass, 155. 
 
 boiling, with wet and dry waste, 150 
 
 bone, 154. 
 
 chromium, 67. 
 
 clarifying, the, 151. 
 
 cold liquid, 154. 
 
 diamond, 66, 67. 
 
 fly, composition for, 156, 157. 
 
 for books, 154. 
 
 for fancy articles, etc., 66. 
 
 for fine leather, 66. 
 
 for imitations of pearl and marble, 178- 
 181. 
 
 for ivory and bone, 66. 
 
 for joining glass to wood, 66. 
 
 for labels, 66. 
 
 from seaweeds, 177. 
 
 furniture, 154. 
 
 glycerine for enclosing microscopic ob- 
 jects, 68. 
 
 liquid steam, 154. 
 
 liquid, to prepare, 66. 
 
 Maclagan's apparatus and process for 
 making, 153. 
 
 manufacture of, 149. 
 
 marine, 235. 
 
 moulding, 1 
 
 mouth, 67. 
 
 new liquid, 154. 
 
 parchment, 411. 
 
 stock, materials of, 149. 
 
 stock, steeping in lime, 149, 150. 
 
 taking it from the moulds, 152. 
 
 to color yellow, 151. 
 
 to make from tannery waste, 152. 
 
 to whiten, 151. 
 
 water-proof, 154, 423. 
 
 Glutine, for wall papers and for dyeing and 
 printing purposes, 323, 324. 
 
 thickening of, 323, 324. 
 Glycerine cement, 65. 
 
 collodion, 295. 
 
 glue for enclosing microscopic objects, 68. 
 
 soap, 331,332. 
 
 solvent, power of, 453. 
 
 to gain from soapboilers' lye, 250, 251. 
 
 use in sizing and dressing, 323. 
 
 Wilson's process for preparing, 74. 
 Glyceroborates, calcium and sodium, 406, 407. 
 Gold, alloy resembling, 8. 
 
 and aluminium alloys, 4. 
 
 and orange stain for brass, 414. 
 
 and silver lace, to wash, 362, 363. 
 
 and silver wires, alloys for imitating, 8. 
 
 bronze on iron, 46. 
 
 chloride of, to prepare, 73. 
 
 color, brilliant, on plated articles, 111. 
 
 for illuminating, 90. 
 
 fulminating, 34. 
 
 polishing powder for, 76. 
 
 size, 149. 
 
 solders, 338. 
 
 substitute for, 4. 
 
 to cleanse, 78. 
 
 to regain from old toning baths, 304. 
 
 varnish on iron, 208. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 475 
 
 Gold wall paper, new process of manufacturing, 
 445, 446. 
 
 water, 21. 
 
 water essence, 14, 15. 
 Gongs and bells, metal for, 8. 
 Goudron, essence de, 231. 
 
 Gourlier's salt mixtures for galvanic cop- 
 pering, bronzing, etc., 114. 
 Grafting wax, 69. 
 
 Graham's bronzing liquids, tables, 47, 48. 
 Graining, 261. 
 Grease, Belgian wagon, 233. 
 
 belt, 435. 
 
 carriage, excellent, 233. 
 
 for machine belts, 231. 
 
 for water-proofing leather, 231. 
 
 French's machine, 233. 
 
 harness, 436. 
 
 stains, to remove from paper, 75. 
 
 stains, water for removing, 75. 
 
 to remove from silk, 75. 
 
 wagon, Persoz's patent, 234. 
 Greases, patent, 232, 233. 
 Greek bitters, 22. 
 Green, antique, 44. 
 
 bronze for brass, 44. 
 
 bronzing, 414. 
 
 color, innoxious, for candies, 85. 
 
 crayons, 79. 
 
 for artificial gems, formula for, 10. 
 
 marble, to grain imitation of, 262. 
 
 paint for outside work, 264. 
 
 pigments, 268, 269. 
 Green's blasting powder, 31. 
 Grenades, hand, 124. 
 Grenoble, ratafia de, 26. 
 Grinding colors, 260. 
 Grindstones, artificial, 51. 
 
 plastic water-proof, 51. 
 Ground mass for creme, 85. 
 Griinewald bitters, extract for, 14. 
 Guano, solution for flowers, 169. 
 
 substitute for, 169. 
 
 Gum-Arabic, artificial substitute for, 324. 
 Gum, artificial, 3'24. 
 
 substitute for in making bronze colors, 48. 
 Gun and blasting powder of Hafenegger, 30. 
 
 barrels, English process of staining, 244. 
 
 barrels, processes for staining, 244. 
 
 barrels, to harden, 240. 
 
 -cotton, 32. 
 
 -cotton, compressed, blasting under water 
 with, 424, 425. 
 
 -cotton, gunpowder, nitro-glycerine, fulmi- 
 nates, etc., 27-34. 
 
 stocks, composition for, 183. 
 Gunpowder, Borlinetto's, 31. 
 
 Sharp and Smith's patent, 31. 
 Guns, cleaning with petroleum, 243. 
 Gutta-percha and linseed oil cement, 61. 
 
 blacking, 321. 
 
 cement for horses' hoofs, 61. 
 
 cements, 61. 
 
 composition, 60. 
 
 how to color green or black, 60. 
 
 solution of, for shoemakers, 60. 
 
 substitute for, 182, 418. 
 
 Gypsum, to remove from solutions of glucose, 
 342. 
 
 Hafenegger's gun and blasting powder, 30, 31. 
 
 Hager's composition for the destruction of ver- 
 min, 162, 153. 
 
 tooth paste, 95. 
 
 tooth powder, 95. 
 Hair dyes, 289, 290. 
 
 in tanneries, to preserve, 217. 
 
 oils, 286-288. 
 
 restorers, tonics, washes, etc., 288, 289. 
 
 short, utilization of, 348. 
 Hamburgh bitters, 22. 
 Hand grenades, 124. 
 Hard coating for wood, 396. 
 
 nut shell buttons, to dye, 183, 184. 
 
 solder, 337. 
 
 water, to soften, 168. 
 Hardened steel, mechanically, 441. 
 Hardening and welding compounds, 238-241. 
 
 cement, lime, 52. 
 
 composition for steel, 439. 
 Harness grease, 436. 
 
 lacquer for, 211. 
 
 polish, 436. 
 Hartmann's quick method of bleaching flax 
 
 yarn, 36, 37. 
 Hats, felt, to water-proof, 386. 
 
 scouring soap for, 76. 
 
 straw and chip, to wash, 366, 367. 
 
 straw, to cleanse, 76. 
 
 white straw, washing, 447. 
 Heat, effect of on textile fabrics, 344. 
 
 insulation, 137. 
 Heating and fuel, 137. 
 Hedinger's method of bleaching bones, etc., 
 
 40. 
 
 Heel leather, imitations of, 183. 
 Heels of boots and shoes, 176. 
 Heinzerling's quick process of tanning, 215, 
 
 216. 
 
 Hektograph, the, 88. 
 Heliotrope sweetmeat, 82. 
 Hemlock ointment, 166. 
 Hempen fabrics, to tan, 220. 
 Hemp seed, yield of oil, 2. 
 
 to dye, 105. 
 
 to prepare for spinning, 346, 347. 
 Heptane, from California digger or nut pine 
 
 tree, '254. 
 Herb cordial essence, 15. 
 
 extract, Koch's, 23. 
 
 soap, Swiss, 333. 
 Heron plumes, 118. 
 Heterogeneous alloy (Jean's), 6. 
 Hides and skins, to improve, 217. 
 
 to depilate, 215, 216. 
 Hoarseness, remedy for, 166. 
 Hoff 's malt beer, 295. 
 Holland, anisette, 18. 
 
 cura9oa, 20. 
 
 gin, receipt for, 229. 
 Hollow articles, mass for, 63. 
 Honey and glycerine compound for blasting, 
 32. 
 
 from beets and carrots, 129, 130. 
 
 wine, 159. 
 
 Hop stalks, to make cloth from, 349. 
 Hops, to preserve, 313, 314. 
 Hormann s experiments with tin salt, 368. 
 Horn combs, manufacture of, 435. 
 
 combs, to make elastic, 446. 
 
 new method of treating, 43. 
 
 process of joining two pieces of, 446. 
 
476 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Horn, substitute for, 174, 178. 
 
 to imitate tortoise-shell, 43, 44. 
 
 treatment of for manufacture of combs, 
 435. 
 
 waste of, for buttons, 44. 
 Horse feed, bread for, 130. 
 
 feed, pressed, 129. 
 
 Horsehair, to dye with aniline colors, 105. 
 Horses' hoofs, cement for, 61. 
 Hose, rubber, how to soften, 60. 
 
 rubber, to render odorless, 447. 
 Household and rural economy, 157-170. 
 Hufcland's tooth powder, 95. 
 Huilard's substitute for tartar in dyeing, 105. 
 Hyacinth, formula for, 11. 
 Hydraulic mortar, 53. 
 
 motors, oil for, 234. 
 
 water-glass cement, 382. 
 Hydrocarbons, liquid, solidification of, 452. 
 Hydrochloric acid, used in the manufacture of 
 
 gelatine, to regain, 375. 
 Hydroleine, 133, 29G. 
 Hygienic chocolate, 57. 
 
 Hyponitric acid, preparation of, and use for 
 explosive and illuminating substances 
 
 . 425, 426. 
 
 Iceland moss chocolate, 57. 
 
 moss jelly, 85. 
 
 Ice, to keep, without an ice-house, 168, 169. 
 Illuminating, gold for, 90. 
 
 materials, 170-173. 
 
 oil, to purify, 251. 
 
 substances, use of hyponitric acid for, 
 
 425, 426. 
 Imitation of cedar wood, 396. 
 
 of cinnabar, 421, 422. 
 
 of ivory, new, 417. 
 
 Imitations, adulterations, etc., how to detect 
 them, 1-3. 
 
 of mother-of-pearl and marble, with glue, 
 178-181. 
 
 substitutes, etc., 174-184. 
 
 Incombustible fabrics, new method for the pro- 
 duction of, 422. 
 
 ink and paper, 200. 
 
 tissues, 123, 124. 
 
 torches, material for, 170. 
 
 varnish for wood, 208. 
 
 wicks, 170. 
 
 Incrustations, Alfieri's receipt for removing, 
 40. 
 
 Baudet's preventive, 40. 
 
 boiler, 39, 40. 
 
 Roger's preventives, 40. 
 
 Saillard's receipt for removing and pre- 
 venting, 39. 
 
 Indelible marking inks, 80. 
 Indestructible inks, 193, 198, .199. 
 India-rubber goods, to prevent becoming hard 
 and cracking, 447. 
 
 hose, to render odorless, 447. 
 Indigo, acetate of, 184, 185. 
 
 carmine, 184, 185. 
 
 carmine, to make, 269. 
 
 crystallized, 184. 
 
 indigotine, and alizarine, 184-187. 
 
 to cleanse, 76. 
 
 to regain from residues of colors, 377. 
 
 violet, 185. 
 Indigotine, indigo, and alizarine, 184-187. 
 
 Indigotine, Kopp's process of obtaining, 185- 
 
 187. 
 
 Infants' foods, 132. 
 Inflammable compounds, 236. 
 Infusorial earth for insulating steam-pipes, 13T. 
 Ink, alkaline, 198. 
 
 autographic, 192. 
 
 cake, 199 200. 
 
 etching, for glass, 431. 
 
 for bleached cotton and woollen goods, 200. 
 
 incombustible, 200. 
 
 lithographic, English, 192. 
 
 lithographic printing, 192. 
 
 marking, 200. 
 
 pale writing, to make black, 200. 
 
 powders, 194. 
 
 powder in capsules, 199. 
 
 printers', with coal-tar varnish oil, 190. 
 
 printing and stamping, containing iron, 190. 
 
 printing from coal-tar, 190. 
 
 printing, good, the properties which it 
 must possess, 187, 188. 
 
 printing, the manufacture of, 187-190. 
 
 stains, to remove, 75. 
 
 stains, to remove from silk, 75. 
 
 stones, 194. 
 
 vanadium, 196. 
 
 yellow, 198. 
 Inks, alizarine, 196, 197. 
 
 aniline, 198. 
 
 black, 194, 195. 
 
 blue, 198, 199. 
 
 colored indelible, 80. 
 
 fire-proof, 454. 
 
 for marking glass and metal labels, 200. 
 
 for steel pens, 195, 196. 
 
 for writing on glass, 200. 
 
 green, 19. 
 
 indestructible, 193, 198, 199. 
 
 lithographic, 191, 192. 
 
 lithographic, printing, and writing, 187- 
 
 not acted upon by acids, 200. 
 
 patent copying, 193. 
 
 printing, new process for, 190. 
 
 red, 198-200. 
 
 solid, 194, 199. 
 
 stamping and sympathetic, 200. 
 
 violet, 198, 199. 
 
 writing, 192-198. 
 
 Innoxious green color for candies, 85. 
 Insects and worms, to destroy, 161, 162. 
 Insect powder, Persian, 161. 
 Insole leather, imitation of, 183. 
 Insulating mass, flexible, 417. 
 
 material for electrical conductors, 417. 
 Insulation, heat, 137. 
 Intensifier, Davanne's, for spoiled photographic 
 
 plates, 299. 
 
 Intensifying bath, Abney's photographic, 307 
 Iodide of lead ointment, 166. 
 
 of mercury ointment, 166. 
 
 of potassium ointment, 166. 
 
 of sulphur ointment, 166. 
 
 soap, 332. 
 Iodine pastils, 293. 
 
 solution of, to detect dextrine in milk, 2. 
 lodoform, 295. 
 
 pencils, 295. 
 Iridescent glass, 145. 
 
 paper, 277. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 477 
 
 Iridium v its preparation and use, 439, 
 440. 
 
 phosphor, casting of, 440. 
 
 phosphor, properties of, 440. 
 
 points for pens, 439, 440. 
 Irish moss jelly, 85. 
 Iron, 238. 
 
 and alumina mordants on cotton prints, 
 linens, etc., fixing of by water-glass, 
 379. 
 
 and aluminium alloy, 4. 
 
 and steel, black polish for, 210. 
 
 and steel, silvering of, 113. 
 
 and steel, solder for, 339. 
 
 and steel, staining, 243, 244. 
 
 and steel, to cleanse from rust, 76, 
 
 bath for coppering, 115. 
 
 bath for nickelling, 109. 
 
 carbonate of, with chocolate, 5T. 
 
 cast, substitute for, 176. 
 
 cast, to harden, 238. 
 
 chocolate, 57. 
 
 constructions, paint for, 266. 
 
 enamelling of, 116. 
 
 fire-plating for, 115. 
 
 galvanizing, 114. 
 
 galvanizing and nickelling of, in Cleveland, 
 413. 
 
 glass enamel for, 118. 
 
 gold bronze on, 46. 
 
 gold varnish for, 208. 
 
 injurious effect on aluminium, 5. 
 
 lacquers, 205. 
 
 lustre, 422. 
 
 new process of bronzing on, 414. 
 
 in stone, cement for fastening, 64. 
 
 rods, effect of aluminium on, 4. 
 
 separation of, from aluminium, 5. 
 
 stoves, cement for, 66. 
 
 to convert into steel, 241. 
 
 to give it a bright lustre, 238. 
 
 to iron, to cement, 63. 
 
 to prevent rust on, 164. 
 
 to protect from rust, 242. 
 Isinglass, composition of, 156. 
 
 glue, substitute for, 156. 
 
 jelly, 85. 
 Italian government, process of testing olive oil 
 
 for cotton-seed oil, 1. 
 Ivory and bone, cement for, 65. 
 
 and bone, dyeing, 41. 
 
 and bone, glue for, 66. 
 
 and bones, bleaching, 41. 
 
 articles, how to bleach, 43. 
 
 artificial, 43, 416. 
 
 black, 267. 
 
 bleaching, Peineman's method, 40. 
 
 new imitation of, 417. 
 
 receipts for coloring, 41, 42. 
 
 substitute for. 43, 174, 175. 
 
 to make it soft and flexible, 40, 41. 
 
 to produce black and colored drawings 
 upon, 42, 
 
 vegetable, 174. 
 
 Jaline, 32. 
 Japanese bronzes, 7. 
 
 matches, 128. 
 
 transparent varnish, 208, 
 Japan gold size, 149. 
 Jasmine sweetmeat, 82. 
 
 Jellies, red color for, 85. 
 
 to prevent the moulding of, 315. 
 Jelly, buck-horn, 85. 
 
 gelatine, 85. 
 
 Iceland moss, 85. 
 
 Irish moss, 85. 
 
 isinglass, 85. 
 
 sago, 85. 
 
 tapioca, 85. 
 Jepp's apparatus and process of manufacturing 
 
 starch, glucose, and dextrose, 341-343. 
 Jewellers' cement, 66. 
 
 foils, 202. 
 
 rouge, 77. 
 
 Jewelry, alloy for, substitute for gold, 4. 
 Jewreinoff on platinizing copper and brass, 
 
 Johnson's process for potassium ferrocyanide, 
 
 ournal-boxes, alloys for, 6. 
 
 uice, orange, 15. 
 
 ungschlager's quick process of tanning, 216. 
 
 uniper berry essence, 16. 
 
 uniper elixir, 17. 
 
 liqueur, 22. 
 
 Juneman's process for wick-consuming can- 
 dles, 172, 173. 
 Jute, to dye, 105. 
 
 to prepare for spinning, 346, 347. 
 working of, 348, 349. 
 
 Kahl's patent plaster, 416. 
 Kid, calf, manufacture of in Philadelphia, 214, 
 215. 
 
 leather, dyes for, 218, 219. 
 
 leather, to make soft, 232. 
 Kindling compound, 137. 
 King's patent fuel, 137. 
 Knife-sharpeners, caoutchouc composition for, 
 
 Knives and forks, alloy for, 5. 
 
 Koch's herb extract, 23. 
 
 Koeben's healing powder, 57. 
 
 Kolbe's mouth wash, 95. 
 
 Kopp's process of obtaining alizarine and in- 
 
 digotine, 185-187. 
 Koumiss, artificial, 294. 
 Krebs & Co., process for dynamite, 29. 
 Kuhr's receipt for water-proofing linen, 386. 
 Ktimmel cordial, 20. 
 
 Labels, glue for, 66. 
 
 inks for, 200. 
 
 on machines, paste for, 69. 
 Lace, point, to wash, 365. 
 
 silver and gold, to polish, 364. 
 
 silver and gold, to wash, 362, 363. 
 
 to whiten, 365. 
 Laces, size for, 326. 
 
 to wash, 364, 365. 
 
 Lacquer and varnish, German patent process 
 of making, 212. 
 
 bookbinders', 210, 412. 
 
 bronze, 210. 
 
 elastic, 211. 
 
 for closing bottles, 211. 
 
 for drawings, 211. 
 
 for flowers, maps, playing cards, prints, 
 etc., 209. 
 
 for harness, etc., 211. 
 
 for leather, 209, 210. 
 
473 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Lacquer for spring steel, 211. 
 
 spirit, for wax tapers, 389. 
 Lacquered wood, to cleanse, 164. 
 Lacquering, background for, 392. 
 
 of sheet metal, 244, 245. 
 Lacquers and varnishes, 202-214. 
 
 for carriages, 214. 
 
 iron, 205. 
 
 photographic, 308. 
 
 spirit, 205. 
 Lactopepsin, 297. 
 
 Lake pigments, carmine and others, 268. 
 Lampblack, 266. 
 
 from the resinous sodic residues in the 
 
 working of coal-tar, 372. 
 
 Lampblacks, manufacture of, from asphaltum 
 pitch or blacksmiths' pitch, 371, 372. 
 
 manufacture of, from waste in working 
 
 coal-tar, 370-372. 
 Lamps, cement for, 65. 
 Lange & Son's patent aluminium alloys, 4. 
 Lanolin, Liebreich's process of preparing, 450. 
 Lapis lazuli, formula for, 11. 
 Lard and tallow, to prevent becoming rancid. 
 168. 
 
 and tallow, to purify, 169. 
 Lavender, essence, 15. 
 Lead, adulteration of vinegar with, 2. 
 
 and aluminium, do not alloy, 4. 
 
 bath for nickelling, 109. 
 
 crystal glass, 143. 
 
 ointment, 166. 
 
 pencils, black and colored, for glass and 
 porcelain, 432. 
 
 pipes, to protect, 242. 
 
 plasters, 297. 
 
 Leaden water-pipes, coating of, 445. 
 Leather, artificial, 176, 177. 
 
 artificial, for lithographers' rollers, 174. 
 
 belts, cements for, 64. 
 
 black gloss for, 215. 
 
 calf, with a white flesh-side, smooth, 217. 
 
 cement for, 65. 
 
 cloth, 176. 
 
 dyeing of, 217-221. 
 
 elastic mass resembling, 417. 
 
 fine, glue for, 66. 
 
 from seaweeds, 177. 
 
 gilding and silvering, 445. 
 
 grease for water-proofing, 231, 232. 
 
 gutta-percha cements for, 61. 
 
 Hall's substitute for, 176. 
 
 imitations of, 183. 
 
 lacquer for, 209, 210. 
 
 marbled and dark of one color, gilding on, 
 411,412. 
 
 ointments, 321. 
 
 ornaments, to fasten, on metal, 94. 
 
 prepared cloth as a substitute for, 383. 
 
 pulverized, for boot heels, 176. 
 
 Reichard's and Reber's processes for gild- 
 ing, 411. 
 
 tanning and dyeing, including furs, etc., 
 214-221. 
 
 to give it the smell of Russia leather, 220, 
 221. 
 
 to water-proof, 384. 
 
 transparent, to prepare, 216. 
 
 vegetable, 418. 
 
 wash, cleansing of, 419. 
 
 waste, use of in manufacture of paper, 277. 
 
 Lemonade powders, 157. 
 
 syrups for, 134, 135. 
 Lemon essence, 15. 
 
 juice, to preserve, 312. 
 
 lozenges, 84. 
 
 soap, 332. 
 
 sweetmeat, 82. 
 Levulose, to prepare, 342. 
 Liebreich's process for preparing lanolin, 460. 
 Life, elixir of, 17. 
 Light blue ultramarine colors with potash 
 
 water-glass, 380. 
 
 Lightning-rods, to protect from rust, 242. 
 Lights, Bengal, 124. 
 Ligroin and air, gas from, 171. 
 Lily soap, 332. 
 Lime and sugar paste, 68. 
 
 burnt, to preserve, 312. 
 
 liniment, 167. 
 
 putty for wood, 67. 
 
 to harden, 52. 
 
 Linen and cotton goods, finishing of, by water- 
 glass, 380. 
 
 fabrics, to tan, 220. 
 
 gold embroidered, to wash, 364. 
 
 goods, sizing for, 322, 323. 
 
 Kuhr's receipt for water-proofing, 386. 
 
 marking ink for, 79, 80. 
 
 pencils for marking, 79. 
 
 sizes for, 326. 
 
 to wash, 363. 
 
 tracing, 276. 
 Liniments, various, 167. 
 Linseed oil and gutta-percha cement, 61. 
 
 oil, substitute for, 452. 
 Lipowitz, fusible alloy of, 5. 
 Liqueur, calamus, 19. 
 
 cherry, 19. 
 
 Chinese, 26. 
 
 chocolate, 20. 
 
 cumin, 20. 
 
 juniper, 22. 
 Liqueurs, bitters, cordials, ratafias, 17-27. 
 
 cordials, etc., mode of coloring, 12. 
 Liquid cement for coating metals, papier 
 mache, etc., 414. 
 
 glue, cold, 154. 
 
 glue, to prepare, 66. 
 
 Graham's bronzing, 47, 48. 
 
 wash blues, 370. 
 
 water-glass, Kuhlmann's process at Lille, 
 
 379. 
 
 Liquids, hermetically closing bottles con- 
 taining, 311. 
 
 Liquor, Geitner's alizarine, 187. 
 Liquors and beverages, beer, brandy, gin, 
 whiskey, wines, etc, 221-231. 
 
 to purify, 230. 
 Litharge ointment, 166. 
 Lithium glass, 432. 
 Lithofracteur made by Krebs & Co., of Deutz, 
 
 29. 
 Lithographers' rollers, artificial leather for, 
 
 174. 
 Lithographic ink, English, 192. 
 
 inks, 191, 192. 
 
 printing ink, 192. 
 Lithomarlite, Garvey's, 51. 
 Litmus, tincture of, to prepare, 71. 
 Liver-of-sulphur, to prepare, 74. 
 London purple for the destruction of insects,162. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 479 
 
 Love sweetmeat, 82, 83. 
 Lowget's polishing powder, 76. 
 Lozenges, 84. 
 
 Chinese, 84. 
 
 chocolate, 57. 
 
 ginger, 84. 
 
 lemon, 84. 
 
 peppermint, 84, 295. 
 
 spice for, 84. 
 
 stomachic, 84. 
 Lubricant, caoutchouc, 232. 
 
 caoutchouc, for driving belts, 436. 
 
 for axles, shafts, etc., 232. 
 
 for belts, 233. 
 
 for industrial purposes, 232. 
 
 from oil residues, 233. 
 
 from paraffine residues, 232. 
 
 from seaweed, 234. 
 
 pulverulent, 232. 
 
 pyroleine, 233. 
 Lubricants, 438. 
 
 blacking, etc., 435-439. 
 
 for machines, wagons, etc., 231-235. 
 
 mixtures of mineral and animal oils for, 
 438. 
 
 purification of, after use, 438. 
 Lubricating oil for astronomical instruments, 
 234. 
 
 oils, Thurston's machine for testing, 436- 
 
 438. 
 
 Lumber, terra-cotta, 416. 
 Luminous paper, 454, 455. 
 Lunar caustic, to prepare, 73. 
 Lustre, bright, 91. 
 
 colors, 140. 
 
 colors, preparation of with carbolic acid, 
 422. 
 
 dead, 91. 
 
 durable on copper, 46. 
 Lustres, bismuth, tin, uranium, and iron, 422. 
 
 metallic, upon fabrics, 348. 
 Lustrine, Alsacienne, 370. 
 Lutecine, components of, 5. 
 Lye, caustic soda, Balling's method of pre- 
 paring, 335. 
 
 Lyes, percemtage of soda and potash in, 335. 
 Lyons asphaltum, 54. 
 
 Mace extract, 15. 
 
 Machine oil, consistent, 232, 233. 
 
 Machines for manufacture of chocolate, 55, 56. 
 
 lubricants for, 231-235. 
 Machinery metal for various purposes, table 
 
 of, 406. 
 
 Mackinnon pen, iridium points for, 439. 
 Madder, yellow, the most stable yellow dye, 3. 
 Madeira wine, 231. 
 Magnesium, neutral extract of, 296. 
 Magnus' patent to polish slate, 78. 
 Mahogany, to grain imitation of, 261. 
 Malachite, imitations of, 180. 
 Malaga wine, 231. 
 Malleable brass, receipt for, 241. 
 
 nickel, receipt for, 241, 242. 
 Malt beer, 295. 
 
 bon-bons, 81. 
 
 extracts, 296. 
 
 fabrication of, 221. 
 
 mashing, 221, 222. 
 
 mashing the, for brewing, 221, 222. 
 
 sugar, 80. 
 
 Malt with pepsin wine, 297. 
 Manganese alloys, 403, 404. 
 
 bronze, 6, 405. 
 Mannite, 342, 343. 
 Manure for meadows, 373, 
 
 from animal waste, 169. 
 
 from coal-ashes, 169. 
 
 powder from blood, 169. 
 
 salt from urine, 169. 
 
 Manures, artificial, from residues in the work- 
 ing of coal-tar, 372. 
 
 for meadows, 373. 
 
 for turnips, etc., 169. 
 Manuscripts, faded, to restore, 74, 75. 
 Maple, to grain imitation of, 2(52. 
 Maps, lacquer for, 209. 
 
 Marabouts, how to restore and dye, 118, 122. 
 Maracaibo tobacco, 350. 
 Maraschino, 23. 
 Marble, artificial, 51. 
 
 bleaching stained, 39. 
 
 busts, to clean, 78. 
 
 concrete, 54. 
 
 imitation of, 178. 
 
 imitation of for plastic ornaments, 183. 
 
 to clean, 420, 421. 
 
 to grain imitation, 262. 
 
 variegated, to imitate, 51. 
 Marbleizing sandstone, 53. 
 Margarine, 131-133. 
 Marine glue, 235. 
 Marjoram essence, 15. 
 Marking brush for boxes, 201. 
 
 ink for linen, 79, 80. 
 
 inks, 200. 
 
 tools, 443. 
 
 Marmalade, cherry, 84, 85. 
 Marmorin, 63. 
 
 Martin and Delamotte's process of nickel- 
 plating, 108. 
 
 Martinsen's blasting powder, 32. 
 Masonry, brick, made impervious to water, 55. 
 Mass, flexible insulating, 417. 
 
 for hollow articles, 63. 
 
 for plastic models, 417. 
 
 for roofing, fire-proof ceilings, etc., 416. 
 
 for toys, vessels, dolls' heads, etc., 62. 
 
 resembling leather, 417. 
 Mastic cement, 63. 
 Matches, 236-238. 
 
 antiphosphorus, 237. 
 
 inextinguishable in the wind, 237. 
 
 Japanese, 128. 
 
 parlor, 236, 237. 
 
 quick, 125. 
 
 Swedish, 236. 
 
 without phosphorus, 237. 
 
 without sulphur, 236. 
 Materials, strength of, 456-458. 
 Meat biscuit, 130. 
 
 English pickle for, 310. 
 
 extract with chocolate, 57. 
 
 flour, 129. 
 
 preservatives of, 310, 311. 
 
 quick process of corning, on a small scale, 
 312. 
 
 to preserve, 314. 
 Medals, bronze for, 8. 
 Medicated and toilet soaps, 331-335. 
 
 waters, 290-292. 
 Medicinal sweetmeats, 83. 
 
480 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Medicines, new patent, 296, 297. 
 Meerschaum, caseine cement for, 65. 
 
 substitute for, 175, 176. 
 Mege's process for oleomargarine, 131. 
 Meiffren's patent alloy, 8. 
 Melanyl candles, 171. 
 Mercury, fulminate of, 33. 
 Metal, cement for fastening rubber upon, 64. 
 
 coin, 8. 
 
 electroplating with cobalt, 111. 
 
 fire and water-proof cement for, 63. 
 
 for brasses, table of, 406. 
 
 for gongs and bells, 8. 
 
 industry, 238-245, 439-444. 
 
 letters, cement for fastening on glass, etc., 
 64. 
 
 machinery for various purposes, 406. 
 
 new solder for, 441. 
 
 polishing powder for, 76. 
 
 rags for polishing, 419. 
 
 Spence's, 6, 405. 
 
 stop-cocks, composition for, 7. 
 
 surfaces, ornamenting, 92. 
 
 to lacquer, 244, 245. 
 
 type, components of, 6. 
 
 water-proof paint for, 266. 
 Metals, and glass, painting with water-glass, 
 381. 
 
 bronzing and coloring, 44-49. 
 
 caseine cement for, 65. 
 
 coloring, 46, 47. 
 
 glazes for, 244, 245. 
 
 liquid coating for, 414. 
 
 platinizing, 110,111. 
 
 polishing pastes for, 77. 
 
 polishing rags for, 77. 
 
 preparation of, for nickelling, 110. 
 
 staining, 243, 244. 
 
 to enamel and cement, 116, 117. 
 
 Warne and Trabak, 403. 
 Metallic colors, zinciferous, 137, 138. 
 
 lustre, to impress upon fabrics, 346. 
 
 sulphides as mordants, 106. 
 
 surfaces, paint for, 264. 
 
 wicks, 170. 
 
 Metalline, manufacture of, 234. 
 Metallique, moire, 45, 46. 
 Metallized caoutchouc, 60. 
 Meters, dry gas, 170, 171. 
 Mice, paste for destroying, 162. 
 Microscopic objects, paste for, 68. 
 
 preparations, 68. 
 Mignonette soap, 332. 
 Mildew stains, to remove, 75. 
 Milk, adulterations of, 2. 
 
 foods for children, 132. 
 
 sugar, 340, 341. 
 
 to keep from souring, 157. 
 
 to preserve, 314. 
 Milks, condensed, 132. 
 Millstones, artificial, 51. 
 Minargent, 8, 403. 
 Mineral oils, to purify, 247. 
 
 oils, to free from sulphuric acid and sul- 
 phur, 256. 
 
 waters, syrups for, 134, 135. 
 Mine timber, preparation of, 395, 396. 
 Mint, Paris, bronzing in, 44. 
 Mirror-glass, 142. 
 
 Bohemian, 142. 
 Mirrors, flexible, 178. 
 
 Mirrors, polishing powder for, 77. 
 
 silvering of telescopic, 113. 
 Mitis castings, 441. 
 Modelling wax, 389. 
 
 wax, superior, 418. 
 Models, plastic mass for, 417. 
 Mogador, 23. 
 Moire metallique, 45, 46. 
 Molasses soap, 320. 
 Moleskin, a substitute for leather, 383. 
 Molybdic acid, to prepare, 73, 74. 
 Monpou elixir, 17. 
 Monuments, bronze, 48, 49. 
 
 to repair with water-glass paste, 379. 
 Moody's new polish for wood, 394. 
 Mordants, 105, 106. 
 
 iron and alumina, fixing of by water-glass* 
 
 Morocco paper, stains for, 280, 281. 
 Mortar, bitumen, 53. 
 
 hydraulic, 53. 
 
 requisites for, 52. 
 
 water-proof, 53. 
 
 water-glass and chalk, 382. 
 Mosaics, staining wood for, 393, 394. 
 Mosquitoes and gnats, to destroy, 162. 
 Moth and roach exterminator, 446. 
 Mother-of-pearl, imitation of, 178. 
 Moths, packing paper to protect cloths, furs, 
 etc., from, 408. 
 
 receipts for destroying, 161, 162. 
 
 to protect furs from, 220. 
 Moulding figures, pasteboard mass for, 63. 
 
 the glue, 151. 
 Moulds for galvano-plastic deposits, 115. 
 
 taking glue from, 152. 
 Mouth glue, 67. 
 
 paste, antiseptic, 95. 
 
 washes, 95. 
 
 Mowbray's process for nitro-glycerine, 27-29. 
 Mulberry ratafia, 26. 
 Munich fire-extinguishing powder, 123. 
 Musical instruments, steel wire for, 241. 
 Music printing plates, alloy for, 6. 
 Musk extract, 283, 284. 
 
 essence, 15. 
 
 soap, 332. 
 
 Muslin and cotton prints, to wash without in* 
 jury to the color, 368. 
 
 fine, to wash, 363. 
 
 gold embroidered, to wash, 364. 
 
 to bleach, 34. 
 Mustards, 245-247. 
 Mustard-seed, yield of oil by, 2. 
 Must, wine, to improve, 231. 
 
 Naples yellow, 270. 
 
 Naphtha, ether, 170. 
 test of, 254, 255. 
 
 Naphthaline colors, to dye with, 103. 
 to prepare, 248. 
 
 Napoleon, eaude, 21. 
 
 Nectar, 23. 
 
 Negative layer, to remove from glass-plate in 
 
 photography, 305. 
 
 process, Wothly's, without intensifying 
 bath, 308. 
 
 Nettles, to prepare for spinning, 346, 347. 
 
 Neutral soaps, 330. 
 
 Nicotine in tobacco, apparatus for testing per- 
 centage of, 74. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 481 
 
 Nickel alloy, prepared by Christofle and 
 Bouilhet, 5. 
 
 baths, 109. 
 
 Fleitmann's process of refining, 441. 
 
 malleable, receipt for, 241, 242. 
 
 waste, utilization of, 443. 
 Nickelling, American, 109. 
 
 and galvanizing of iron in Cleveland, O., 
 413. 
 
 latest Anglo-American, 109, 110. 
 
 preparation of the metals for, 110, 
 Nickel-plating, 107-109. 
 Niello, 118. 
 
 Nitric acid, adulterating vinegar with, 2. 
 Nitrogeneous organic substances, productions 
 
 made from, 377. 
 Nitro-glycerine, 27-34. 
 
 Bottger's process, 29. 
 
 gelatinous, 33. 
 
 to protect from moisture, 32. 
 Nobel's process for dynamite, 29. 
 Non-explosive powder, 31. 
 Norbin & Ohlsson's patent for dynamite, 29. 
 Nut essence, 15. 
 Nutmeg essence, 15. 
 
 Nutritive substances, fluids containing, to pre- 
 serve, 313. 
 Nuts, pea, yield of oil by, 2. 
 
 Oak furniture, to cleanse and beautify, 78. 
 
 to grain imitation of, 261. 
 Offal and waste, utilization of, 370-378. 
 Oil and wood putty, 67. 
 
 a new, from California, 254. 
 
 Belmontine and Sherwood, 254. 
 
 castor, manufacture of, 247. 
 
 cement paint for felt roofing, 52. 
 
 -cloth, 345, 346. 
 
 -cloth, bronze color, for printing on, 190, 
 191. 
 
 coal-tar, process of producing in England, 
 256, 257. 
 
 coal-tar varnish, 256. 
 
 colors, dryer for, 266. 
 
 corn, from corn mash, 251. 
 
 cotton-seed, manufacture of, 449, 450. 
 
 cotton-seed, refining, 451. 
 
 crude cotton-seed, production of soap or 
 sebacic acids from, 451. 
 
 drying, Chinese, 248. 
 
 fish, new process of extracting, 451. 
 
 for pumicing wood, 252. 
 
 for watchmakers, 235. 
 
 from acid tar, 251. 
 
 from sunflower seed, 252. 
 
 illuminating, to purify, 251. 
 
 linseed, substitute for, 174, 452. 
 
 machine, consistent, 232, 233. 
 
 machine, from coal-tar varnish oil, 234. 
 
 neat's-foot, manufacture of, 248. 
 
 of lemon, effect of on oil paintings. 258. 
 
 of turpentine, effect of on oil paintings, 
 258. 
 
 of turpentine, substitute for, 174. 
 
 olive, clarifying, 449. 
 
 oxidized, 412. 
 
 painting^ green borate of copper for, 268. 
 
 painting, to transfer from an old to a new 
 canvas, 259. 
 
 paintings, effects of different solvents on, 
 257-259. 
 31 
 
 Oil paintings, how to cleanse, pack, and var- 
 nish, and to restore gilt-work, 257-260. 
 
 paintings, how to pack, 259. 
 
 paintings, special instructions for cleansing, 
 258, 259. 
 
 paintings, to lacquer and cleanse, 259. 
 
 paintings, to paste on wood, 259. 
 
 paintings, varnishing of, 259, 260. 
 
 poppy-seed, to purify, 251. 
 
 rape-seed, to detect, 252, 253. 
 
 residues, lubricant from, 233. 
 
 rosin, and its uses, 248, 249. 
 
 shale, residues of, 247. 
 
 sugar, to prepare, 80. 
 
 to disguise the taste of, 166. 
 
 to make parchment paper impermeable to, 
 
 to remove from fleece, wool, silk, and 
 
 woollen fabrics, 346. 
 to remove from silk, 75. 
 train, to purify, 251. 
 Vulcan, 234.. 
 white vaseline, 453. 
 wood-tar, purification of, 255. 
 Oils and fats, 447-453. 
 
 and fats, animal, vegetable and mineral, 
 
 247-257. 
 
 and fats, bleaching of, 447, 448. 
 and paraflines, from petroleum residues. 
 
 451, 452. 
 animal and mineral, lessening of the lia- 
 
 bility to spontaneous combustion by 
 
 mixing, 438. 
 
 animal, to purify, 251, 252. 
 coal-tar, shoemakers' wax from, 257. 
 cruciferal, to detect, 252. 
 essential, detection of water in, 449. 
 hair, 286-288. 
 light, to distinguish from petroleum and 
 
 tar-oils, 254. 
 
 lubricating, machine for testing, 436-438. 
 mineral and animal, lessening of the lia- 
 
 bility to spontaneous combustion by 
 
 mixing, 438. 
 mineral, to purify, 247. 
 mineral, to remove sulphuric acid and sul- 
 
 phur from, 256. 
 mineral, to solidify, 248. 
 percentage of, in seeds, 12. 
 purification of, 452, 453. 
 testing, 257. 
 to deodorize, 252. 
 vegetable fat, French process of cleansing, 
 
 Ointment, blistering, 294. 
 Ointments, leather, 321. 
 
 various, 166, 167. 
 
 water-proof, for shoes, 321, 322. 
 Oleicacid, purified, to prepare, 73. 
 Oleomargarine, 131-133 
 
 separating and purifying the fats for, 235 
 Oleum aromaticum, 297. 
 
 Olive oil, clarifying, 449. 
 
 oil, effect of on oil paintings, 258. 
 process of testing for cotton-seed oil, L 
 
 Onyx, to make from agate, 177. 
 Opal, formula for, 11. 
 
 glass, 144. 
 Opaque glass, composition for, 144. 
 
 glass, substitute for, 178. 
 Opera glasses, alloy for, 6. 
 
482 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Opium liniment, 167. 
 
 ointment, 167 
 Opodeldoc, 297. 
 Orange and gold stain for brass, 414. 
 
 blossom extract, 15 
 
 blossom sweetmeat, 82. 
 
 blossom water, 15. 
 Orange blossoms, coated, 84. 
 
 blossoms, preparation of, 15. 
 
 dyes, test for, 3. 
 
 juice, 15. 
 
 peel cordial, 23 
 
 peel extract, 15. 
 
 ratafia, 26 
 
 soap, 332 
 
 sugar, 80. 
 
 sweetmeat, 81 
 
 wine, 159. 
 
 Oranges, candied, 84. 
 Oranienburg soap, 330. 
 Ordway's artificial stone, 50. 
 Ores, refractory, Cowles' electric furnace for 
 
 reducing, 440, 441. 
 Organic substances, novelties in preserving, 
 
 and apparatus used, 407, 408. 
 Orient, eau d', 21. 
 
 Ornamentation, decoration, etc , 8994. 
 Ornamenting frosted glass, 434. 
 Ornaments, artificial wood for, 93. 
 
 bronze for, 8. 
 
 composition for, 62 
 
 imitation of marble for, 183. 
 
 leather, to fasten upon metal, 94. 
 
 wood mass for, 93, 94. 
 Oroide, composition of, 3. 
 Osiers, coloring with aniline colors, 459, 460. 
 
 how they can be peeled in winter, 391. 
 Ostberg's process of making wrought-iron cast- 
 ings, 441. 
 
 Ostrich feathers, 118. 
 Otto's process of manufacturing pressed yeast, 
 
 401. 
 
 Ott's artificial stone, 50. 
 Oxalic acid, preparation of, 73 
 Oxidized oil, 412. 
 
 silver, 44, 441, 442. 
 Ozotine, from woolly fibre, 274. 
 
 Packing, asbestos and rubber, 62. 
 
 Painters' cream, 273. 
 
 Paint brushes, to clean from dried paint, 76. 
 
 cheap, for outside work, 264. 
 
 flexible, 263. 
 
 for constructions of iron, 265 
 
 for metallic surfaces, 264. 
 
 for outside walls, 264. 
 
 for outside work, 265, 266. 
 
 for roofs, 265. 
 
 for tin roofs, 264. 
 
 for vessels, submarine works, etc., 263, 
 264 
 
 for wooden posts, etc., 397. 
 
 for wood or stone which resists moisture, 
 264. 
 
 green, for outside work, 264. 
 
 oil cement, for roofing, 52. 
 
 parafine, receipt for, 265. 
 
 quickly drying, 265. 
 
 Swedish, for wood work, 265. 
 
 universal, for oil or water, 264. 
 
 water-proof, 263 
 
 Paint, water-proof, for metals, 266. 
 
 white, for metallic surfaces, 264. 
 
 whitewash closely resembling, 165. 
 Painting on zinc, 414, 415. 
 
 receipts for colors for, 262, 263. 
 
 sign, 148, 149. 
 
 water-glass in, 381. 
 
 willow-ware, 460. 
 
 Paints and pigments, grinding and mixing 
 colors, graining, imitation of marbles, 
 paints, and washes for various purposes, 
 260-273 
 
 cheap, for floors, stone- work, etc., 263, 
 264. 
 
 for various purposes, 263-266. 
 
 poisonous, 271. 
 Palamaud, 58. 
 
 composition of, 129 
 
 Palladium, platinum and copper alloy, 403. 
 PalmgrSne, 58. 
 Palm oil wagon grease, 232. 
 Panama essence, 368. 
 
 hats, dressing for, 326. 
 Paper, 453^55. 
 
 amianthus, 277. 
 
 and paper materials, manufacture, stain- 
 ing, etc., glass, sand, and emery paper. 
 273-281. 
 
 blasting, 424. 
 
 cigarette, 274. 
 
 carbolic acid, 275. 
 
 colored, for tying up bottles, 277. 
 
 crystalline coating for, 421. 
 
 electro-chemical telegraph, 277. 
 
 emery, 278, 279. 
 
 fly, to prepare, 161. 
 
 for artificial flowers, stains for, 279. 
 
 for covering boilers, 455 
 
 for documents, 274. 
 
 for wrapping fruit in, 276. 
 
 gas-pipes, 454. 
 
 glazed, stains for, 279, 280. 
 
 gold wall, new process of manufacturing, 
 445,446. 
 
 how to split, 281. 
 
 imitation of mother-of-pearl on, 277, 278. 
 
 incombustible, 200. 
 
 iridescent, 277. 
 
 Johnson's varnish for water-proofing, 423. 
 
 luminous, 454, 455. 
 
 manufacture of bottles from, 455. 
 
 matrices for stereotype plates, 115 
 
 morocco, stains for, 280, 281. 
 
 parchment, 275. 
 
 parchment, to make impermeable to oil, 
 455. 
 
 photo-lithographic transfer, 276. 
 
 pulp, new process of manufacturing, 455. 
 
 raw materials for, 273, 274. 
 
 Reichardt's process of gilding, 411. 
 
 safety, 274, 275. 
 
 soap, preparation of, 455. 
 
 tar, 276, 277. 
 
 to free from fatty substances, 77. 
 
 to make incombustible, 124. 
 
 to make transparent, 278. 
 
 to protect cloth, furs, etc., from moths, 
 408. 
 
 to remove grease stains from, 75. 
 
 to render water-, rot-, and insect-proof, 
 453, 454. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Paper, to water-proof, 384. 
 
 tracing, 276. 
 
 wall, paste for, 68. 
 
 water-proof 275. 
 
 waxed, to prepare, 388. 
 
 writing and drawing, which can be washed, 
 
 276. 
 Papers, cork, 275. 
 
 fire-proof, 454. 
 Papier mache, from flour, 63. 
 
 mach6, liquid cement for coating, 414. 
 Paradise, eau de, 22. 
 
 water, 22. 
 
 Paraffine and heavy oils from petroleum resi- 
 dues, 451, 452. 
 
 bleaching of, for manufacture of candles, 
 447. 
 
 paint, receipt for, 265. 
 
 preparation and uses of, 253, 254. 
 
 purifying, 259. 
 
 residues, lubricants from, 2:52. 
 Parasol ribs, artificial whalebone for, 178. 
 Parchment, fabrication of, 454. 
 
 fluid, 211. 
 
 glue, 411. 
 
 paper, 275. 
 
 paper, to make impermeable to oil, 455. 
 
 to gild and silver, 91. 
 Parfait D'Amour, 23. 
 Paris green, to make, 268. 
 
 metal, components of, 5. 
 
 mint, bronzing in, 44. 
 
 tooth powder, 95. 
 Parisian rappee snuff, 354. 
 
 wood varnish, 209. 
 Parlor matches, 236, 237. 
 Pasteboard, for moulding large figures, 63. 
 
 plastic, for surgical bandages, 276. 
 
 to enamel, 277 . 
 
 to make water-proof, 277. 
 Paste, durable, 69. 
 
 dry, 68. 
 
 fluid, 68. 
 
 for fixing printed labels on machines, 69. 
 
 for microscopic objects, 68. 
 
 for patent leather, 321. 
 
 for postage stamps, 68. 
 
 for wall-paper, 68. 
 
 lime and sugar, 68. 
 
 safety for post-office packages, 69. 
 Pastes, cements and putties, (53-69. 
 
 polishing, for metals, glass, etc., 77, 420. 
 Pastiles, 293, 294. 
 Patchouli soap, 332. 
 
 Patent dynamite, Norbin and Ohlsson's pro- 
 cess, 29. 
 
 leather, paste for, 321. 
 
 medicines, 296, 297. 
 Paving, asphaltum for, 53. 
 Peach cordial, 23. 
 
 essence, 15. 
 
 Peanuts, yield of oil in, 2. 
 Pear ratafia, 26. 
 Pearl embroideries, to wash, 366. 
 
 imitations of, 178-181. 
 
 imitation of on paper, 277, 278. 
 
 lustre, to imitate, 182. 
 
 mother-of, to dye with aniline colors, 104. 
 
 veneers, to imitate, 179. 
 
 yarn, 345 
 
 iris, 
 
 Pearls, artificial, 9-12. 
 
 Pearls, artificial, Geissler's process, 12. 
 
 genuine, to wash, 365. 
 Pectoral bon-bons, 81. 
 
 troches, 80. 
 Peineman's method of bleaching ivory turned 
 
 yellow, 40. 
 Pencils for marking linen, 79. 
 
 for writing on glass, 79. 
 
 iodoform, 295. 
 
 sharpening stone for, 177. 
 Pens, iridium points for, 439. 
 Peppermint cordial, 28. 
 
 drops, 84. 
 
 essence, 16. 
 
 lozenges, 84, 295. 
 
 sweetmeat, 82. 
 Pepsin, lacto, 297. 
 
 wine, with malt, 297. 
 Peralite, 32. 
 
 Perfume from flowers, extraction of, 282. 
 Perfumes for cigars, 354. 
 
 Perfumery, aromatic vinegars, cosmetics, ex 
 tracts, hair oils, pomades, powders, 
 washes, fumigating articles, etc., 282- 
 
 Permanent inks, 198, 199. 
 
 Perron's fireworks for rooms, 128. 
 
 Persian insect powder, 161. 
 
 Persimmon seeds, substitute for coffee, 169. 
 
 Petroleum, cleaning guns with, 243. 
 
 lamps, cement for, 65. 
 
 residues, heavy oils and paraffine from, 
 451, 452. 
 
 to clarify without distilling, 252. 
 
 to detect, 254. 
 
 to solidify, 248. 
 Petum optimum, 351. 
 Pewter, solder for, 339. 
 Pfauth's process of preparing pressed yeast 
 
 from beer yeast, 402, 403. 
 Pharaoh's serpents, 128. 
 
 serpents, substitute for, 129. 
 Pharmaceutical preparations, 294-298. 
 Phosphor bronze, 404, 405. 
 
 iridium, casting of, 440. 
 
 iridium, properties of, 440. 
 Phosphorescent enamel, 422. 
 
 illuminating powder, 70. 
 
 mixtures, 446. 
 
 Phosphorizing bronze or brass, 442, 443. 
 Phosphorole, 296. 
 Phosphorus, amorphous, preparation of, 237, 
 
 238. 
 Photo-diaphanic process of transferring, 302. 
 
 -emulsions, Vogel's improvements in, 302. 
 Photographic baths, 300, 301, 305, 307. 
 
 developers, 298, 299, 301, 305-307. 
 
 developing solution, 299. 
 
 emulsion, 301. 
 
 emulsions, 298, 300-302, 306. 
 
 lacquers, 308. 
 
 negatives, varnish for, 212. 
 
 plates, intensifier for, 299. 
 
 plates, new developer for, 301 . 
 
 purposes, artificial ivory for, 43. 
 
 process with phosphorescent substances, 
 303. 
 
 reproduction. 303, 304. 
 
 varnishes, 307. 
 Photographs, email, 300. 
 
 enamelled, 300. 
 
484 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Photographs on wood, 308. 
 
 transferring to glass, 434. 
 Photography, 298-308. 
 
 rapid method for, 304, 305. 
 
 use of gelatine in, 298-305, 307. 
 
 various practical receipts for, 306-308. 
 Photo-lithographic transfer paper, 276. 
 
 -negatives, fluid for, 301. 
 
 -negatives, reproduction of, 305, 306. 
 
 -operating room, painting the, 301. 
 
 -paper, sensitive, 306. 
 
 -plates, Petchlers' new method of prepar- 
 ing, 302. 
 
 -printing receipts, 301. 
 
 -printing without a press, 302, 303. 
 Phylloxera, to destroy, 163. 
 Phytochromotypy, 423, 424. 
 Picture frame composition, 62. 
 
 frames, imitation of marble for, 183. 
 Piffard's galvano-plastic silvering, 112. 
 Pigment, white or black, from the clarifying 
 
 slime in sugar-houses, 376. 
 Pigments, 266-272. 
 
 innoxious for toys, 270, 271. 
 Pills, female, 294. 
 Pinchbeck, composition of, 3. 
 
 origin of name, 3. 
 Pine needles, a substitute for hair, etc.. 
 
 157. 
 
 Pins with glass heads of a coppery appear- 
 ance, 431, 432. 
 Pipes, leaden water, to coat, 445. 
 
 steam, cement for, 63. 
 Pistol-stocks, composition for, 183. 
 Pistons, from buffalo skins, 178. 
 Pitch, 223. 
 
 asphaltum, lampblack from, 371, 372. 
 
 blacksmiths', from coal-tar, 257. 
 
 brewers', 223. 
 
 hop, 223. 
 
 ointment, 167. 
 
 varnish for buildings, 208, 209. 
 Plant slips, collodion for, 165. 
 Plaster, clay, 53. 
 
 for ceilings, 416. 
 
 for damp walls, 53. 
 
 galbanum and saffron, 297. 
 
 gelatine, 296. 
 
 Kahl's patented, 416. 
 
 of Paris casts which can be washed, 308- 
 310. 
 
 of Paris figures, bronzes for, 45. 
 
 soap, 298. 
 Plasters, lead, 297. 
 
 sticking, 297. 
 Plastic bandage, 297. 
 
 masses, treatment of pyroxyline in the 
 manufacture of, 58, 59. 
 
 models, mass for, 417, 
 Plated ware, solder, silver, for, 339. 
 Plate glass, manufacture of, 432-434. 
 
 glass, of the mirror manufactory at Aix la 
 
 Chapelle, 142. 
 Plates, developers for, 299. 
 Plating with aluminium, 111. 
 
 with nickel, 107-109. 
 Platinizing copper and brass, Jewreinoff on, 
 
 glass and porcelain, 434. 
 metals, 110, 111. 
 Platinotypy, recent improvement in, 304. 
 
 Platinum and bismuth alloy, 4. 
 
 bronze, alloy, 5. 
 
 fulminating, 33, 34. 
 
 palladium, and copper alloy, 403. 
 Playing cards, lacquer for, 209. 
 Plumes, description of, 118. 
 Plush, feather, 344. 
 
 restoring of, 420. 
 Poch's pudrolith, 30. 
 Poisonous paints, 271. 
 Polish for carved work, 209, 210. 
 
 for wood, 394. 
 
 French, 209, 210. 
 
 harness, 436. 
 
 liquid, for silver-plated ware, 419. 
 
 new, for wood, 419. 
 
 water, 23. 
 
 whiskey, 23. 
 Polishing agents, 75-78. 
 
 metal, rags for, 419. 
 
 of wood, 211. 
 
 pastes for metals, 77. 
 
 powder for glass and metal, 76. 
 
 powder for plate, 77. 
 
 powder for silverware, 78. 
 
 powder, Louget's, 76. 
 
 rags for metals, 77. 
 
 soaps and pastes, 420. 
 
 substances for glass, 433, 434. 
 
 wax, 387. 
 
 wax for woods, 398. 
 
 wax, Wabeck's, 77. 
 Polygraphic method of copying, 87, 88. 
 Pomades, 287, 288. 
 
 Poplar tree, new dye from shoots of, 107. 
 Poppy seed oil, to purify, 25J. 
 
 seed, white, yield of oil, 2. 
 Porcelain and glass, water-glass and casein* 
 cement for, 382. 
 
 and glass, water-glass cement for, 382. 
 
 black and colored lead-pencils for, 432. 
 
 cement for, 63. 
 
 fire and water-proof cement for, 63. 
 
 gilding of, 90. 
 
 new solder for, 441. 
 
 painting, fusible colors used in, 137-141. 
 
 painting, green borate of copper for, 268. 
 
 platinizing, 434. 
 
 to give it a marbled or granite appearance, 
 
 Portocarero tobacco, 351. 
 Porto Rico tobacco, 351. 
 Port wine, 231. 
 
 Positive paper for photographers, 298. 
 Postage stamps, paste for, 68. 
 Posts, wooden, new paint for, 397. 
 Potash, caustic, to purify water, 72. 
 Potash, effect of on oil paintings, 258. 
 from sheep's wool, 450. 
 percentage of in lye, table of, 335. 
 water-glass as a binding and fixing me- 
 dium for ground colors on cotton goods, 
 380. 
 water-glass, substitute for albumen in 
 
 printing with ultramarine, 380. 
 water-glass, to prepare, 378. 
 Potassium acetate, to prepare, 74. 
 
 ferrocyanide, Johnson's process and ap- 
 paratus for manufacturing, 70. 
 Potatoes and other tubers, to preserve, 311, 
 312. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 485 
 
 Potatoes, pressed yeast From, 401. 
 Potato flour for soups, 130. 
 
 flour, to prepare, 157. 
 
 starch, blasting compound from, 31. 
 Powder, Augendre's white, 30. 
 
 blasting, Green's, 31. 
 
 blasting, new, 425. 
 
 cleaning, for show windows, 419. 
 
 copper colored bronze, 45. 
 
 for cannon of large cajibre Spence's, 31. 
 
 for polishing silver, 78. 
 
 giant, 32. 
 
 giant, new method of preparing, 425. 
 
 Koeben's healing, 57. 
 
 non-explosive, 31. 
 
 tooth, preparation of precipitated chalk 
 
 for, 446. 
 Powders, bronze, 45. 
 
 cosmetic, 292. 
 
 pudding, 130. 
 
 sneezing, 354. 
 
 washing, 370. 
 Powell's improvements in nickel-plating, 108, 
 
 109. 
 
 Precious stones, to cleanse, 78. 
 Preservative agents, 405-408. 
 
 papers, 315. 
 
 salt, to prepare a, 311. 
 
 Preserving meat, milk, vegetables, vegetable 
 substances, wood, etc., and preserva- 
 tives, 310-316. 
 Pressed yeast from potatoes, 401. 
 
 yeast, Otto's method of manufacturing, 
 
 401. 
 
 Prince's metal, composition of, 3. 
 Princesses, eau des, 22. 
 Printed matter, fire-proof, 454. 
 Printers' ink with coal-tar varnish oil, 190. 
 
 rollers, 201, 202. 
 
 rollers, from glue and glycerine, 156. 
 
 varnish, with coal-tar varnish oil, 190. 
 Printing and copying, 86-89. 
 
 autographic method of, 86. 
 
 bronze color, for direct upon paper, oil- 
 cloth, etc., 190, 191. 
 
 colors, German patent, 190. 
 
 colors, paste for, 187. 
 
 in colors, 86, 87. 
 
 ink containing iron, 190. 
 
 ink from coal-tar, 190. 
 
 ink, good, the properties which it must 
 possess, 187, 188. 
 
 fnk, new process for, 190. 
 
 ink, the manufacture of, 187-190. 
 
 plates, celluloid, 416, 417. 
 
 preparation of surfaces for, 345. 
 Prints, lacquer for, 209. 
 Prinze's soap-boiling tables, 336. 
 Prismatic colors, 140. 
 Pudding powders, 130. 
 Puddings, vanilla, almond, and chocolate, 
 
 130. 
 
 Pudrolith, Poch's, 30. 
 Pulverize glass, to, 146. 
 Pumice soap, 332. 
 Pump pistons, to make from buffalo skins, 
 
 178. 
 
 Punch drops, 84. 
 Purple colors, how composed, 3. 
 
 colors, test for, 3. 
 Putties, pastes, and cements, 63-69. 
 
 Putty for wood floors, 67. 
 
 for wood lime, 67. 
 
 wood, and glue, 67. 
 
 wood, and oil, 67. 
 Pyrogallic acid, to prepare, 306. 
 Pyroleine lubricant, 233. 
 Pyrolith, Wattlen's, 30. 
 Pyrotechnic and explosive substances, 424. 
 Pyroxyline, treatment of, in the manufacture 
 of plastic masses, 58, 59. 
 
 Quesnot's artificial stone, 49. 
 Quillaya dentifrice, 95. 
 Quince essence, 16. 
 Quittico cordial, 23. 
 
 Rabbit skins, to dye, 219. 
 Racachout des Arabes, 57. 
 Raisin wine, 159. 
 
 Rancid butter, to 
 
 , 168. 
 
 fat, to purify, 168. 
 Ransome's artificial stone, 50. 
 
 patent apoenite, 50, 51. 
 Rape seed, yield of oil in, 2. 
 Rappee snuff, 354. 
 Raspberry bon-bons, 81. 
 
 extract, 16. 
 
 vinegar, 362. 
 
 water, 16. 
 
 wine, 160. 
 Ratafia, apple, 26. 
 
 Barbadoes, 25, 26. 
 
 celery, 27. 
 
 chinoise, 26. 
 
 citronat, 26. 
 
 claret, 26. 
 
 cocoa, 26. 
 
 de Grenoble, 26. 
 
 English bitters, 26. 
 
 fennel, 26. 
 
 ginger, 26. 
 
 mulberry, 26. 
 
 orange, 26. 
 
 pear, 26. 
 
 Scotch, 27. 
 
 stomachic, 26, 27. 
 
 vanilla, 27. 
 
 wormwood, 27. 
 Ratafias, 25-27. 
 
 bitters, cordials, and liqueurs, 17-27. 
 Ratan, to substitute for whalebone, 183, 
 Rats, paste for destroying, 162. 
 
 to clear from buildings, 162. 
 Razor strops, composition for, 63. 
 Reale aqua, 18. 
 Receipts for coloring bones, horn, ivory, etc., 
 
 41, 42. 
 Red bronze for turned articles, 8. 
 
 chrome, 269. 
 
 cloths, cleansing salt for, 365. 
 
 color for jellies, 85. 
 
 color for sweetmeats, 85. 
 
 copper bronze on tin, 46. 
 
 crayons, 79. 
 
 dyes, affected by boiling, 3. 
 
 dyes, effect upon soap solution and upoa 
 lime-water, 3. 
 
 inks, 198-200. 
 
 tooth powder, 95. 
 
 Vandyke, 270. 
 
 wine, alum in, 3. 
 
486 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Refining cotton-seed oil, 451. 
 
 nickel, 441. 
 
 Refractory solders, 338. 
 Reichardt's rosin compound for gilding paper, 
 
 leather, etc., 411. 
 Remedy for warts, 160. 
 Renovating agents, 75-78. 
 Renovator, furniture, 419. 
 Residues of colors, to regain indigo from, 377. 
 Restoring pictures, colors for, 271, 272. 
 
 Retorts 
 
 ng pic. i 
 , glass, 
 
 cement for, 63. 
 
 Ribbons, silk, mixed with gold and silver 
 threads, to wash, 362. 
 
 silk, to wash, 362. 
 
 Riber's process of gilding leather, 41. 
 Rice soap, 332. 
 Riley, Prof. C. V., recommendation of, for 
 
 destruction of potato-bugs, etc., 162. 
 Rivets, bronze for, 8. 
 Roach and moth exterminator, 446. 
 Roasted almonds, 83. 
 
 filberts, 83. 
 
 malt, substitute for coffee, 157. 
 Robandi process for brise-rocs, 30. 
 Robertson's alloy for filling teeth, 3. 
 Roelandt's water-proofing compounds, 385. 
 Roger on the presence of aluminium in steel, 5. 
 Roger's preventive of incrustation, 40. 
 Rollers, printers', 156, 201,202. 
 Roofing, mass for, 416. 
 
 oil cement paint, 52. 
 Roofs, glass, to make water-tight, 55. 
 
 paint for, 265. 
 Root beer, 160. 
 
 Ropes, to make incombustible, 124. 
 Rose essence, 16. 
 
 leaves, preservation of, 15. 
 
 soap, 332. 
 
 sweetmeat, 82. 
 Rosemary cordial, 23, 24. 
 
 essence, 16. 
 Rosewater, 16. 
 
 Rosewood, to grain imitation of, 261 , 262. 
 Rosin, as protection against moisture in walls, 
 164. 
 
 oil and its uses, 248, 249. 
 
 oil, to deodorize, 252. 
 
 soap, 327, 328. 
 Rosoli, bitter, 18. 
 Rossolio de Turin, 24. 
 Rostopschin, 2t. 
 Rotting, to prevent, 164. 
 Rouge for jewellers, 77. 
 Rouges, 292. 
 
 Rough-cast walls, water-glass for, 381. 
 Rubber and asbestos packing, 62. 
 
 combs, cement for, 61. 
 
 corks, to cut and pierce, 164. 
 
 corks, to restore, 377. 
 
 hose, how to soften, 60. 
 
 hose, to render odorless, 447. 
 
 shoes and boots, cement for, 61. 
 
 stamps, manufacture of, 59, 60. 
 
 substitute for hard, 174. 
 
 upon metals, cement for fastening, 64. 
 Ruby, Schrader's mixture for, 10. 
 
 Splittgerber's mixture for, 10. 
 Rum, to manufacture, 229. 
 Russia leather, to imitate the smell of, 220, 
 
 221. 
 Rust and ink stains, to remove, 75. 
 
 Rust on iron, to prevent, 164. 
 
 stains, to remove from clothes by tin salt. 
 
 368. 
 to protect iron metal roofs, wire, etc., 
 
 from, 242, 243. 
 
 to remove from iron and steel, 76. 
 Rusting in of screws, preventing, 443. 
 Rutabagas, manure for, 169. 
 Ruthay's process for making glue from tan- 
 nery waste, 152. 
 
 Sable skins, imitation of, 220. 
 Sacking, to make water-proof, 383. 
 Safety paper, 274, 275. 
 
 paste for post-office, 69. 
 Saffron plaster, 297, 298. 
 Sage essence, 16. 
 Sago jelly, 85. 
 
 Sail-cloth, to make pliable and water-proof, 
 265. 
 
 water-proof, 386. 
 Saillard's receipt for removing and preventing 
 
 incrustations, 39. 
 
 Salt, mixtures for galvanic coppering, bronzing, 
 etc., 114. 
 
 preservative, 311. 
 
 Saltpetre, use of to separate iron from alumin- 
 ium, 5. 
 
 Sands, colored, 201. 
 Sand soap, 330, 331. 
 Sandstone, cement for repairing, 64. 
 
 marbleizing, 53. 
 
 steps, to repair, 54. 
 to make tough and impermeable, 54. 
 Sapphire, formula for, 10. 
 Satin, to wash, 362. 
 
 wood, to grain imitation of, 262. 
 Satori's process of silvering Bessemer steel, 
 
 112. 
 
 Saucers and glasses, to cleanse, 76. 
 Savin ointment, 167. 
 Savon de Riz, 332. 
 
 ess. bouquet, 332. 
 
 orange, 332. 
 
 Sawdust, utilization of, 416. 
 Saws and springs, to harden, 240, 241. 
 
 to solder, 340. 
 
 Schaeffer's artificial stone, 49. 
 Schrader's flux, components of, 9. 
 
 mixture for ruby, 10. 
 School slates, artificial slating for, 177. 
 Schottler's artificial cement, 52. 
 Schubert's method of manufacturing pressed 
 
 yeast, 399, 400. 
 Scotch ratafia, 27. 
 Scouring and washing, 362-370. 
 
 fluid, le Francois, 75. 
 
 soap, 76. 
 
 soap for cotton and silk goods, 76. 
 
 soap for glass mirrors, 77. 
 
 soap, green, 76, 77. 
 
 soaps, black and green, 76. 
 
 water for removing grease stains, 75. 
 Scubac, 24. 
 
 Scurvy grass sweetmeat, 83. 
 Screw bolts, zincing of, 443, 444. 
 Screws, to prevent from rusting-in, 443. 
 Sealing wax and wafers, 316-319. 
 Seaweed leather, 177. 
 
 lubricant, 234. 
 
 soap, 177. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 487 
 
 Seaweeds for leather, soap, and glue, 177. 
 Sebacic acids, production of, from crude cot- 
 ton-seed oil, or from its residues, 451. 
 Seed, black mustard, yield of oil by, 2. 
 
 flax, yield of oil by, 2. 
 hemp, yield of oil by, 2 
 rape, yield of oil by, 2. 
 
 watermelon, yield of oil by, 2. 
 white mustard, yield of oil by, 2. 
 white poppy, yield of oil by, 2. 
 Seeds, percentage of oil in, 1, 2. 
 
 yield of per cent, of oil, 2. 
 Sensitive photo-paper, 306. 
 Sept graines, eau de, 22. 
 Serpents, Pharaoh's, 128. 
 Serviette magique, for metals, 77. 
 Sevilla snuff, 353. 
 Shafts, lubricants for, 232. 
 Shale oil, residues of, 247. 
 Sharp and Smith's patent gunpowder, 31. 
 Sharpening stone for pencils, 177. 
 Shaving cream, 446, 447. 
 
 soap, 334. 
 
 Sheepskins, to dye, 219, 220. 
 Shellac, to bleach, 37, 38. 
 Shell, tortoise, cement for, 65. 
 
 tortoise, dyeing, how to imitate, 43, 44. 
 Shellinger's artificial stone, 50. 
 Sheet-iron, enamel for, 116. 
 Sheet-metal, to lacquer, 244, 245. 
 Ships' bottoms, to protect, 266. 
 Shoddy, how made, 347, 348. 
 Shoe blacking, dressings, etc., 319-322. 
 
 blacking, good, requirements for, 319, 320. 
 
 dressings, 319-322. 
 
 Shoes and boots, French process of water- 
 proofing, 385. 
 
 Shoemakers, gutta-percha solution for, 60. 
 Shoemakers' wax from coal-tar oils, 257. 
 Short hair, utilization of, 348. 
 Show windows, cleansing powder for, 419. 
 
 windows, gilding on, 148. 
 Shrinking of wood, 396. 
 Sign painting, 148, 149. 
 Signs, glass and other, 147-149. 
 Silex soap, 328. 
 Silica-hydrate, purification of sugar beet juice 
 
 by, 344. 
 Silicium, 242. 
 
 Silk and cotton goods, soap for removing 
 stains, 76. 
 
 and silk fabrics, to wash, 363. 
 
 and woollen fabrics, to restore the color 
 of, 366. 
 
 bleaching of, 36. 
 
 cleansing old, 95, 96. 
 
 cloth, and hats, scouring soap for, 76. 
 
 cotton, and wool, to dye with aniline 
 colors, 100-105. 
 
 damasks, to wash, 362. 
 
 dresses, to wash, 366. 
 
 dyeing of, 95, 96. 
 
 gauze, 348. 
 
 gilding on, 412. 
 
 goods, soap for washing, 334. 
 
 ribbons mixed with gold and silver thread, 
 to wash, 362. 
 
 ribbons, to wash, 362. 
 
 silvering or gilding, 92. 
 
 stockings, to wash, 3'i4. 
 
 to remove ink stains from, 75, 
 
 Silk, to remove oil from, 346. 
 
 to remove tar, grease, oil, and varnish 
 
 from, 75. 
 Silver, alloys resembling, 8, 403. 
 
 and aluminium alloys, 4. 
 
 and gold lace, to polish, 364. 
 
 and gold lace, to wash, 362, 363. 
 
 bath, Sutton's, 306. 
 
 Chinese, alloy, 7. 
 
 fulminate of, 33. 
 
 hard, receipt for, 241. 
 
 oxidized, 4 U, 442. 
 
 polishing powder for, 78. 
 
 size, preparation of, 91. 
 
 solder, 338. 
 
 to cleanse, 78. 
 
 to regain from gelatine emulsions, 305. 
 
 to restore the lustre of, 260. 
 Silvered dial plates, to cleanse, 421. 
 
 telescopic mirrors, 113. 
 Silvering, 91. 
 
 and gilding, detection of imitations, 2. 
 
 and gilding leather, 445. 
 
 and gilding silk, cotton, and woollen yarns, 
 92. 
 
 galvano plastic, 112. 
 
 gilding, bronzing, etc., 412-415. 
 
 iron and steel, 113. 
 
 metals, Adrielle's process, 112. 
 
 new alloy for, 404. 
 
 of copper, 112,113. 
 
 of steel, 112. 
 
 on glass, 148. 
 
 steel, Satori's process, 112. 
 
 tincture, 112. 
 
 Silver-plated ware, liquid polish for, 419. 
 Silverware, to clean, 420. 
 Size, a new, from starch, 324. 
 
 for bonnet frames, 326, 327. 
 
 for laces, 326. 
 
 for woollen goods, 327. 
 Sizes for linen, 326. 
 Sizing and dressing for cotton, wool, straw, 
 
 etc. ,322-327. 
 Skins and hides, to improve, 217. 
 
 animal, dyeing and patterning, 219. 
 
 animal, preparation, free from arsenic, for 
 preserving, 408. 
 
 animal, to preserve, 161. 
 
 naturally white, to dye, 220. 
 
 to preserve and make water-proof, 216, 217. 
 Slag, cement from, 51, 52. 
 Slate, substitute for, 182. 
 
 to polish, 78. 
 
 Slating for blackboards, etc., 177. 
 Sleigh bells, American, 5. 
 Smoked beef, 315. 
 
 Smoking tobacco, Turkish, 354, 355. 
 Smoky walls, to clean, 421. 
 Sneezing powders, 354. 
 Snuff manufacture, 353, 354. 
 Soap balsam for sprains, 296. 
 soap-boiling table, Prinz's practical, 336. 
 Soap, cocoanut oil and molasses, 329, 330. 
 cold water, 329. 
 creams, 332, 333. 
 effect of, on oil paintings, 258. 
 elaine, 329. 
 
 fat of bones for, 250, 251. 
 floating, 329. 
 for frosted limbs, 332. 
 
48$ 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Soap for washing silk goods, 334. 
 
 for water-proofing woollen cloth and other 
 fabrics, 383. 
 
 from cotton-seed oil, to remove the disa- 
 greeable odor of, 451. 
 
 from seaweeds, 177. 
 
 hard and soft soaps , medicated and toilet 
 soaps, etc., 327-336. 
 
 liniment, 107. 
 
 molasses, 329. 
 
 Oranienburg, 330. 
 
 paper, preparation of, 455. 
 
 plaster, 298. 
 
 preparation of, from crude cotton-seed oil, 
 or from residues obtained bj its purifica- 
 tion, 451. 
 
 rosin, 327, 328. 
 
 sand, 330, 331. 
 
 scouring, 76. 
 
 silex, 328. 
 
 soft, 329. 
 
 varnish for gilding, 423. 
 
 varnishes, 423. 
 
 wax, 387, 388. 
 Soaps, American, 327, 328. 
 
 medicated and toilet, 331-335. 
 
 neutral, 330. 
 
 polishing, 420. 
 
 scouring, 76, 77. 
 
 water-glass, 330. 
 
 Sobrero's process for dynamite, 29. 
 Soda, caustic, to purify water, 72. 
 
 lye, caustic, to prepare, 335. 
 
 percentage of, in lyes, tables of, 335. 
 
 water-glass for protecting white colors in 
 printing fabrics, 379. 
 
 water-glass, preparations of, 378. 
 Soft solder, 337. 
 Solder, brass, hard, 337. 
 
 copper as a, (or iron, 337. 
 
 for argentan, 337, 338. 
 
 for brass and sheet tin, 339. 
 
 for Britannia metal, 339. 
 
 for German silver, 337, 338. 
 
 for gold on aluminium bronze, 339. 
 
 for iron and steel, 339. 
 
 for pewter, 339. 
 
 for steel on sheet-iron, 340. 
 
 hard, 339. 
 
 hard, containing tin, 337. 
 
 hard, soft, and bismuth, 337. 
 
 hard white, 339. 
 
 liquefiable, 338. 
 
 new, for metal, glass, and porcelain, 44T. 
 
 refractory, 338. 
 
 silver, 338. 
 
 silver, for plated ware, 339. 
 
 soft, 339. 
 
 soft, to color yellow, 415. 
 Soldering and solders, 336-340. 
 
 autogenous, 337. 
 
 liquid, causing no rust, 340. 
 
 liquid, free from acid, 340. 
 
 small articles, 340. 
 
 saws, 340. 
 
 without a soldering iron, 340. 
 Solders for articles to be enamelled, 338. 
 
 for gold, 338. 
 
 hard, 337-339. 
 
 hard yellow, 339. 
 
 soft, 337, 339. 
 
 Solders, tables of, 337-339. 
 Sole leather, imitations of, 183. 
 Soles, shoe, to improve the appearance of, 322. 
 Solid inks, 194, 199. 
 Soluble glass and its uses, 378-382. 
 Solutions, caoutchouc, 299. 
 Sorel's artificial stone, 50. 
 Sounding-board wood, extraction and impreg- 
 nation of, 369. 
 Soup extract, 129. 
 
 tablets, 129. 
 Soya aqua vitae, 24. 
 Spanish bitters, 24. 
 
 bitters essence, 16. 
 Spavin, remedy for, 294. 
 Spence's metal, 405. 
 
 powder for cannon of large calibre, 31. 
 Spermaceti ointment, 167. 
 Spiced chocolate, 56, 57. 
 
 vinegar, 361. 
 Spice for lozenges, 84. 
 Spindles, oil for, 234. 
 Soirit gold lac varnishes, 206, 207. 
 
 lacquers, 205. 
 
 of wine, to produce from wine-lees rf75. 
 
 376. 
 
 Splittgerber's mixture for ruby, 10. 
 Sponges, to bleach, 37. 
 Spontaneous combustion, experiments with 
 
 oils in regard to, 438. 
 Spoons and forks, alloys for, 6. 
 Spoonwort sweetmeat, 83. 
 Sprains, balsam for, 296. 
 Springs and saws, to harden, 240, 241. 
 Spring steel, lacquer for, 211. 
 Spruce beer, 160. 
 Stables, to purify the air in, 168. 
 Stained wood, to cleanse, 164. 
 Stain for walking canes, 392. 
 Staining maple wood silver-gray, 392, 393. 
 
 metals, receipts for, 243, 244. 
 
 wood for fine cabinet work, 391. 
 
 wood for veneers, mosaics, etc., 393, 394. 
 Stains, ebony, 393. 
 
 for papers, 279-281. 
 
 for veneers, 393. 
 
 for willow-ware, 458-460. 
 
 ink, to remove, 75. 
 
 ink, to remove from silk, 75. 
 
 means of removing, 369. 
 
 mildew, wine, or fruit, to remove, 7ft. 
 
 rust, to remove from clothes, 308. 
 
 to remove from books, 77. 
 
 wine and vinegar soap for, 76. 
 Stamp color, blue, 80. 
 Stamping ink, 200. 
 
 ink, containing iron, 190. 
 Stamps, postage, paste for, 68. 
 
 rubber, manufacture of, 59, 60. 
 Starch, crimson dye, 365. 
 
 dye, 365. 
 
 gloss, 370. 
 
 glucose and dextrose, Jepp's process of 
 manufacturing, 341-343. 
 
 sugar, refining of, 341. 
 Statuary bronze, 8. 
 St. Vincent Rappee snuff, 354. 
 Steam glues, 154. 
 
 pipes, cement for, 63. 
 
 pipes, earths for insulating, 137. 
 
 pipes, heat insulating coverings for, 137. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Stearine candles, cheap mode of making, 173. 
 Steel and iron, black polish for, 210. 
 and iron, silvering of, 113. 
 and iron, solder for, 339. 
 and iron, staining, 243, 244. 
 and iron, to cleanse from rust, 76. 
 bath for coppering, 115. 
 bath for nickelling, 109. 
 blue bronze en brass, 46. 
 cast, to restore burnt, 238. 
 copper, 242. 
 damaskeening, 89. 
 etched with sulphuric acid, 5. 
 gilding of, 413, 414. 
 hardening composition for, 439. 
 hardening water for, 240. 
 instruments, to harden, 239. 
 mechanically hardened, 441. 
 on sheet-iron, solder, 340. 
 pens, inks for, 195, 196. 
 Poncelet's fluids for hardening, 240. 
 silvering of, 112. 
 thin, Hartmann's hardening compound 
 
 for, 240. 
 
 to convert iron into, 241. 
 to harden in sealing wax, 240. 
 to soften, 238. 
 welding, 239. 
 
 wire for musical instruments, 241. 
 Stein's receipts for compositions of glass, as 
 actually used in various glass works, 
 142-144. 
 
 Steps, sandstone, to repair, 54. 
 Stereotyping, paper matrices for, 115. 
 Sternutative powders, 354. 
 Stettin bitters, 24. 
 
 Stickiness of dried caoutchouc, how to re- 
 move, 60. 
 
 Sticking plasters, 297. 
 Stockings, silk, to wash, 364. 
 Stomach bitters, 24, 25. 
 bitters, Vienna, 25. 
 Stomachic elixir, 295. 
 lozenges, 84. 
 ratafia, 26, 27. 
 
 Stone and brick walls, to protect from moist- 
 ure, 164. 
 
 and wood, wash for, 164, 165. 
 artificial building, 49. 
 artificial, for filtering, 71. 
 cement for fastening iron on, 64. 
 cheap paint for, 263. 
 cork, 415. 
 substitute for, 176. 
 troughs, cement for, 64. 
 walls, water-glass for, 381. 
 water-proof paint for, 264. 
 Stones, building, 51. 
 
 porous, to make tough and impermeable, 
 
 54. 
 
 precious, to cleanse, 78. 
 silicifying of, by water-glass, 379. 
 Stonework, to prevent disintegration of, 264, 
 
 265. 
 
 Stop cocks, metal, composition for, 7. 
 Storax pills, 295. 
 Stove polish, 169. 
 Stoves, iron, cement for, 66. 
 Stramonium pastils, 293. 
 Strass, basis of artificial gems, 10. 
 compositions for, 143, 144. 
 
 Strawberry extract, 16. 
 
 vinegar, 362. 
 
 Straw, bleaching and dyeing of, 455, 456. 
 dyes, 456. 
 
 goods, to dye, with aniline colors, 104. 
 hats, to cleanse, 76. 
 hats, washing, 366, 367, 447. 
 preparation of, in making paper, 273, 274. 
 to bleach, 38. 
 
 to make incombustible, 124. 
 Strengthening tincture, 16. 
 Strength of materials, 456-458. 
 Strontia sugar from treacle and syrup, 344. 
 Strops, razor, composition for, 63. 
 Stumps, tree, to destroy, 165. 
 Submarine works, paint for, 263. 
 Substitute for caoutchouc, new, 417, 418. 
 
 for gutta-percha, 418. 
 Substitutes, imitations, etc., 174-184. 
 Sudorate, potassic, in sheep's wool, 450. 
 Sugar and dextrine in malt, 221 . 
 and lime paste, 68. 
 beet juice, clarification of, 344. 
 beets, to preserve, 311. 
 house clarifying slime, pigments from. 376. 
 malt, 80. 
 
 of milk, 340, 341. 
 oil, to prepare, 80. 
 orange, 80. 
 strontia, preparation of, from treacle and 
 
 syrup, 344. 
 
 syrups, to clarify, 135. 
 Sugars, glucose, etc., 340-344. 
 Suint, 450. 
 Sulphate of barium, preparation of, for sizing, 
 
 327. 
 
 of copper, to prepare, 74. 
 Sulpho-cyanic acid, to prepare, 73. 
 Sulphur, from gas lime, 376. 
 liver of, to prepare, 74 
 ointments, 167. 
 soap, 333. 
 
 Sulphuric acid, adulterating vinegar with, 2. 
 acid and sulphur, to remove from refined 
 
 oils, 256. 
 
 acid, from gas lime, 376. 
 Sunflower seed oil, 252. 
 
 Surgical bandage, plastic pasteboa/d for. 276. 
 Swedish matches, composition of, 236. 
 
 matches, striking surface, 236. 
 Sweetmeat, Angelica, 82. 
 antiscorbutic, 83. 
 carnation, 82. 
 cherry, 82. 
 chocolate, 81. 
 cinnamon, 82. 
 filbert, 82. 
 heliotrope, 82. 
 jasmine, 82. 
 lemon, 82. 
 love, 82, 83. 
 orange, 81. 
 orange-blossom, 82. 
 peppermint, 82. 
 rose, 82. 
 
 scurvy grass, 83. 
 spoonwort, 83. 
 sweet smelling, 83. 
 vanilla, 82. 
 violet, 83. 
 water-cress, 83. 
 
400 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Sweetmeats (conserves), 81. 
 
 medicinal, 83-86. 
 
 red color for, 86. 
 Sweet smelling sweetmeat, 83. 
 Swicent tobacco, 351. 
 Swiss cordial, 25. 
 
 herb soap, 333. 
 Sympathic colors, 273. 
 Sympathetic ink, 200. 
 
 Syrups for lemonades and mineral waters, 
 134, 13&. 
 
 fruit and other, 134-136. 
 
 how to clarify, 135. 
 
 Tables, Graham's bronzing liquids, 47, 48. 
 Tablets, soup, 1^9. 
 Tabourey elixir, 17. 
 Taffeta, black, to wash, 364. 
 
 to wash, 364. 
 Tallow, adulteration of wax with, 2. 
 
 and lard, to prevent becoming rancid, 168. 
 
 and lard, to purify, 169. 
 
 bleaching, 448, 449. 
 
 candles, Juneman's process of manufact- 
 ure, 172, 173. 
 
 candles, to coat with a hard substance, 
 171, 172. 
 
 to bleach and harden, 37. 
 Tannery waste, Ruthay's process for making 
 
 glue from, 152. 
 Tannin black, for printing ink, 191 
 
 method of extracting, 71. 
 
 plates, 299. 
 
 soap, 333. 
 
 solution of, 299. 
 Tanning linen, hempen and cotton fabrics, 220. 
 
 liquor, heating, 215. 
 
 new process of Ballatschano and Trenck, 
 214. 
 
 processes, quick, 214-216. 
 Tapers, wax, 388. 
 Tapioca jelly, 85. 
 Tar, from gases of coke ovens, 374, 375. 
 
 from nitrogeneous organic substances, 377. 
 
 oils, nitrating for blasting compounds, 33. 
 
 ointment. 167. 
 
 paper, 276, 277. 
 
 soap, 333. 
 
 to extract oil from, 251. 
 
 to remove from silk, 75. 
 
 varnish, 211. 
 
 wood, for decorations, 93. 
 Tartar, cream of, to prepare, 73. 
 
 emetic ointment, 167. 
 
 substitute for, in dyeing wool, 105. 
 Tartaric acid, adulterating vinegar with, 2. 
 Tartrate of calcium, to produce from wine lees, 
 
 375, 376. 
 
 Tawed leather, to dye, 217, 218. 
 Tawing, yelks of eggs in, to preserve, 217. 
 Tea and coffee trays, to clean, 78. 
 
 beef, to prepare, 165, 166. 
 Teapots, alloys for, 3. 
 Teeth, cement for filling, 68, 69. 
 
 Robertson's alloy for filling, 3. 
 Telegraph paper, electro-chemical, 277. 
 Telescopes, alloy for, 5. 
 Telescopic mirrors, silvered, 113. 
 Terra-cotta lumber, 416. 
 
 Test for detection of water in essential oils, 
 449. 
 
 Testing lubricating oils, 436-438. 
 
 oils, Maumene's process of, 257. 
 Tests for foreign substances in beer, 223-226. 
 Textile fabrics and tissues, 344-349. 
 fabrics, effect of heat upon, 344. 
 fabrics, to coat with metallic substances, 
 
 344. 
 
 fabrics, to render water-, rot-, and insect- 
 proof, 453, 454. 
 fabrics, to water-proof, 384. 
 Thaw, frozen ground, to, 70, 71. 
 Theatre scenes, to make incombustible, 124. 
 Thermaline, 297. 
 Thiem's bitters, 25. 
 
 Thurston's autographic torsion testing ma- 
 chine, 456-458. 
 machine for testing lubricating oils, 436- 
 
 438. 
 
 Tiles, to paint red, 266. 
 Timbers, mine, preparation of, 395, 396. 
 relative durability of mine, 395, 396. 
 Tin and aluminium alloys, 4. 
 bath for nickelling, 109. 
 enamel, 144. 
 
 red copper bronze on, 46. 
 roofs, durable paint for, 264. 
 salt, for removing rust stains, 368. 
 to decorate with copper plates and litho- 
 graphs, 94. 
 Tincture, absinthe, 13. 
 anise-seed, 13. 
 aromatic, 13. 
 calamus, 14. 
 
 of litmus, to prepare, 71. 
 silvering, 112. 
 strengthening, 16. 
 vanilla, 16. 
 
 Tinctures, extracts, essences, and waters, 13-16. 
 Tinfoil, substitute for, 178. 
 Tinning, cold, 114. 
 
 cooking utensils, 114. 
 of cast-iron, 113, 114. 
 of tissues, 348. 
 
 Tin-plates, bath for nickelling, 109. 
 Tinsmiths, varnish for, 208. 
 Tissier on the effect of iron in aluminium, 5. 
 Tissues and fabrics, 344-349. 
 bleaching woollen, 35, 36. 
 cleansing fluid for, 368. 
 incombustible, 123, 124. 
 tinning of, 348. 
 
 to make incombustible, 122-124. 
 to size with alkaline solutions of silk, 
 
 wool, or feathers, 325. 
 to water-proof, 382. 
 
 various processes of water-proofing, 383. 
 Tivoli cordial, 25. 
 Tobacco, American, to give it the flavor of 
 
 Havana, 354, 355. 
 apparatus for testing percentage of nicotine 
 
 in, 74. 
 
 Brazilian, 349. 
 canasters, 350. 
 Chinese or star, 350. 
 improvement of inferior qualities of, 352, 
 
 363. 
 
 " Legitimo," 349. 
 new process of preparing, 355. 
 petum optimum, 351. 
 Portocarero, 351. 
 Porlo Rico, 361. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 491 
 
 Tobacco, preparation of leaf, for cigars, 355. 
 
 smoking tobacco, snuff, sternutative pow- 
 ders, etc., 349-355. 
 
 sweet scented, 351. 
 
 Swicent, 351. 
 
 to remove disagreeable smell from, 353. 
 
 Varinas, 361. 
 Tobaccos, smoking, 349. 
 Toilet and medicated soaps, 331-335. 
 
 soaps, to gloss, 334. 
 Tonics, hair, 288-290. 
 
 Toning bath for photography, Parkinson's, 
 306. 
 
 baths, to regain the gold from, 304. 
 Tools, apparatus for coating, 412. 
 
 marking, with a name, 443. 
 
 protecting from acids, 412, 413. 
 Toothache, elixir for, 295. 
 Tooth paste, Hager's, 95. 
 
 powder, American, 94. 
 
 powder, Cartwright's, 94. 
 
 powder, charcoal, 95. 
 
 powder, Circassian, 95. 
 
 powder, Hager's, 95. 
 
 powder, Hufeland's, 95. 
 
 powder, Paris, 95. 
 
 powder, preparation of precipitated chalk 
 for, 446. 
 
 powder, red, 95. 
 
 powders, Deschamps, 94. 
 Topaz, formula for, 11. 
 Torches, incombustible, 170. 
 Torsion testing machine, 456-458. 
 Tortoise-shell, cement for, 65. 
 
 dyeing horn to imitate, 43, 44. 
 Toughened glass, 434, 435. 
 Tourmaline, formula for, 11. 
 Toys, innoxious paints for, 270, 271. 
 
 mass for, 62. 
 Trabak metal, 403. 
 Trac:::g linen, 276. 
 
 paper, 276. 
 
 Train oil, to purify, 251. 
 Transferring photographs to glass, 434. 
 Transfer paper for lithographic work, 276. 
 
 paper with collodio-chloride of silver for 
 
 photography, 306. 
 Transparent glass signs, 148. 
 
 lacquer for closing botlles, 211. 
 
 varnish, 208. 
 Trappistine, 25. 
 Trays, to clean, 78. 
 Trees, cement for injured, 69. 
 Tree stumps, to destroy, 165. 
 
 wax, German, 69. 
 Tret's blasting powder, 30. 
 Troches, pectoral, 80. 
 i Troughs, stone, cement for, 64. 
 'Tunnermann's tables of percentage of soda, 
 
 and of anhydrous potash in lyes, 335. 
 Turco liqueur aqua, 18. 
 Turin, rossolio de, '24. 
 Turkey-red, dyeing with alizarine, 106, 107. 
 
 oil, to prepare, 107. 
 Turkish beads, 9-12. 
 
 beads, formula for, 12. 
 
 smoking tobacco, 354 355. 
 Turnips, manure for, lf>9. 
 Turpentine liniment, 167. 
 
 substitute for, 174. 
 Type metals, composition of various, 6. 
 
 Ulcers and wounds, balsam for, 296. 
 
 Ultramarine, artificial, 207. 
 
 Umbrella ribs, artificial whalebone for, 178. 
 
 Umbrellas, varnish for, 208. 
 
 Unalterable alloy, 7. 
 
 Universal cement. Davy's, 64. 
 
 Upholstering, pine needles in, 157. 
 
 Uranic oxide for yellow colors for gems, 10. 
 
 Uranium lustre, 422. 
 
 Urine, manure salt from, 169. 
 
 Utilizing cotton-seed hulls, 451. 
 
 Vakaka indorum, 58. 
 Vanadium ink, 196. 
 Vandyke red, receipt for, 270. 
 Vanel's water-proof composition, 385. 
 Vanilla cordial, 25. 
 
 essence, 16. 
 
 ratafia, 27. 
 
 sweetmeat, 82. 
 
 tincture, 16. 
 
 vinegar 362. 
 
 water, 16. 
 Varnish, balloon, 207, 208. 
 
 black, for zinc, 209. 
 
 Chinese, 208. 
 
 colorless, 210. 
 
 copal, to make, 202-205, 208. 
 
 copal, with coal-tar varnish oil, 212. 
 
 dryer for, 266. 
 
 for fancy articles, 208. 
 
 for photographic negatives, 212. 
 
 for tinsmiths, 208. 
 
 for umbrellas, 208. 
 
 for violins, etc., 209. 
 
 for water-proofing paper or cloth (John 
 son's), 423. 
 
 for wood, 209. 
 
 furniture, 207-209. 
 
 glass-like, 210. 
 
 gold, for iron, 208. 
 
 gold, without lac, 206. 
 
 incombustible, for wood, 208. 
 
 linseed oil, 207. 
 
 oil from coal-tar, 256. 
 
 pitch, for buildings, 208, 209. 
 
 printers', with coal-tar varnish oil, 190. 
 
 soap, for gilding, 423. 
 
 tar, 211. 
 
 to remove from silk, 75. 
 
 transparent, 208. 
 Varnishes and lacquers, 202-214. 
 
 black, 208. 
 
 filtering, 205, 206. 
 
 for earthen-ware, 208. 
 
 for wood, not affected by fire or boiling 
 water, 208. 
 
 photographic, 307. 
 
 soap, 423. 
 
 spirit gold lac, 206, 207. 
 
 to clarify, 205. 
 
 Varnishing coaches, English method of, 212- 
 214. 
 
 gilding, and painting willow-ware, 460. 
 Variegated marble, to imitate, 51. 
 Varinas tobacco, 352. 
 Vaseline oil, white, 453. 
 
 soap, 333. 
 
 to prepare, 248, 249. 
 Vats, new glaze for, 396, 397. 
 
 wooden, cement for, 64. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Vegetable fat oil, process of cleansing, 247. 
 
 fibres, improved treatment of, 345. 
 
 fibres, to animalize, 346. 
 
 fibres, to water-proof, 384. 
 
 ivory, 174. 
 
 leather, 418. 
 Vegetables, garden, manures for, 169. 
 
 new process for greening, 407. 
 
 preserved, to give a natural color, 311. 
 
 to preserve, 314. 
 Vegetaline, 174. 
 Veils, to wash, 363, 364. 
 Velvet, to gild, 412. 
 
 to remove wax from, 75. 
 
 to wash, 363. 
 
 which has become hard, to soften, 363. 
 Veneers, drying, 181. 
 
 imitations of, 179, 180. 
 
 staining wood for, 393, 394. 
 
 stains for, 393. 
 Verdigris liniment, 167. 
 
 to make, 269. 
 
 Veritable extrait d' Absinthe, 25. 
 Vermin, destruction of, 162, 163. 
 
 Hager's composition for the destruc- 
 tion of, 162, 163. 
 Vessels, paint for, 263. 
 Vibrotypes, 308. 
 
 "Victoria" stone, Highton's, 50. 
 Vienna butter, 25, 133. 
 
 fire-extinguishing powder, 123. 
 
 pressed yeast, 400. 
 
 pressed yeast, Zettler's process of manu- 
 facturing, 400, 401. 
 
 stomach bitters, 25. 
 Vinaigre & la Bordin, 362. 
 
 a la Ravigote, 362. 
 Vinegar, adulterations of, 2. 
 
 Altvater process of manufacturing, 355- 
 358. 
 
 anise, 360. 
 
 aromatic, 360, 361. 
 
 by means of bacteria, 358-360. 
 
 concentration of, 358. 
 
 dragonswort, 361. 
 
 estragon, 361. 
 
 from cork waste, 358. 
 
 herb, 361. 
 
 lemon, 361. 
 
 manufacture of ordinary and fine table 
 vinegars, 355-362. 
 
 orange, 362. 
 
 pine-apple, 362. 
 
 producers, plunging, 358. 
 
 quick process, 358. 
 
 raspberry, 362. 
 
 stains, soap for, 76. 
 
 strawberry, 362. 
 
 vanilla, 362. 
 
 white wine, 360. 
 
 yellow coloring for, 358. 
 Vinegars, fine table, 360-362. 
 
 from raisins, potatoes, and rice, 360. 
 
 spiced and effervescing, 361. 
 
 toilette, 284, 285. 
 Vine props, to preserve by impregnation, 315, 
 
 316. 
 Violet indigo, 185. 
 
 soaps, 333. 
 
 sweetmeat, 83. 
 Violins, varnish for, 209. 
 
 Vital elixir, 17. 
 
 Volatile products developed in roasting coffee, 
 
 to regain, 377, 378. 
 
 Vulcanized caoutchouc, cement for, 60. 
 caoutchouc waste, utilization of, 60. 
 Vulcan oil, 234. 
 
 Wabeck's polishing wax, 77. 
 Wafers and sealing wax, 316-319. 
 
 white and colored, 318, 319. 
 Wagons, lubricants for, 231-235. 
 Walker's chemical bronze, 46. 
 Wall-paper, gold, new process of manufactur- 
 ing, 445, 446. 
 
 paste for, 68. 
 Wall-papers, glutine for, 323, 324. 
 
 to give a gloss to, 323, 324. 
 
 damp, glue for, 235. 
 Walls, damp, how to dry, 54. 
 
 damp, plaster for, 53. 
 
 rough-cast and stone, water-glass for, 381. 
 
 smoky, to clean, 421. 
 
 to protect from moisture, 164. 
 Walnut, cream, 81. 
 
 to grain imitation of, 262. 
 Warne metal, 403. 
 Warts, remedy for, 160. 
 Wash blues, liquid, 370. 
 
 for carpets, Clark's, 366. 
 
 for wood and stone, 164, 165. 
 
 leather, cleansing of, 419. 
 
 process, new, 366. 
 
 red, for brick pavements, 264. 
 Washed silk, to make glossy, 366. 
 Washes, hair, 288, 289. 
 
 Washing and scouring, manufacture of wash- 
 ing blue, etc., 362-370. 
 
 blue, manufacture of, 368-370. 
 
 crystal, 370. 
 
 machines, composition of rollers for, 62. 
 
 Palmer's process of, 366. 
 
 powders, 370. 
 
 silk goods, soap for, 334. 
 
 with water-glass, 365, 366. 
 
 woollen goods, 367, 368. 
 Waste and offal, utilization of, 370-378. 
 
 caoutchouc, utilization of, 60. 
 
 nickel, utilization of, 443. 
 
 of sheep wool, to utilize, 377. 
 
 wash liquors, to recover fat and color from, 
 376, 377. 
 
 woollen, to cleanse, 377. 
 Watch dials, enamel for, 117. 
 
 -makers, oils for, 235. 
 
 -makers' oils, test for, 235. 
 Water, ambergris, 18. 
 
 and fire-proof cement, 63. 
 
 apparatus for purifying, 72. 
 
 blasting under, with compressed gun-cob 
 ton, 424, 425. 
 
 cardinal, 19. 
 
 cherry, 14. 
 
 colors, 272, 273. 
 
 -cress sweetmeat, 83. 
 
 detection of in essential oils, 449. 
 
 essences, extracts, and tinctures, 13-18. 
 
 gold, 21. 
 
 -melon seed, yield of oil, 2. 
 
 hard, to soften, 168. 
 
 orange blossom, 15. 
 
 paradise, 22. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 493 
 
 Water pipes, leaden, to coat, 445. 
 
 Polish, 23. 
 
 raspberry, 16. 
 
 rose, 16. 
 
 to prevent contamination of, in leaden 
 pipes, 445. 
 
 vanilla, 16. 
 
 Waters, cosmetic and medicated, 290-292. 
 Water-glass and caseine cement for glass and 
 porcelain, 382. 
 
 and chalk mortar, 382. 
 
 and lime cements, 382. 
 
 as a bleaching agent, 379, 380. 
 
 as a substitute for cow-dung in fixing 
 alumina and iron mordants on cotton- 
 prints, linen, etc., 379. 
 
 as a substitute for borax and boracic acid 
 in soldering and welding, 381. 
 
 cement for glass and porcelain, 382. 
 
 cement, hydraulic, 382. 
 
 cement with zinc and pyrolusite, 382. 
 
 cements, 381, 382. 
 
 cementing cracked bottles with, 382. 
 
 characteristics of, 378. 
 
 compound, to prepare, 378, 379. 
 
 for coating rough-cast and stone walls, 
 381. 
 
 for finishing linen and cotton goods, 380. 
 
 for preserving barrels and other wooden 
 articles, 382. 
 
 for silicifying stones, 379. 
 
 from infusorial earth (Liebig), 378. 
 
 in painting, 381. 
 
 in painting metals and glass, 381. 
 
 paint, Creuzburg's process of making 
 more durable than oil or varnish, 381. 
 
 potash, as a binding and fixing medium 
 for ground colors on cotton goods, 380. 
 
 potash, cheap substitute for albumen in 
 printing with ultramarine, 380. 
 
 potash, to prepare, 378. 
 
 preparation of fixing, 379. 
 
 soaps, 330. 
 
 soda, for protecting white colors in print- 
 ing fabrics, 379. 
 
 soda, preparations of, 378. 
 
 (soluble glass) and its uses, 378-382. 
 
 to paint wood with, 381. 
 
 washing with, 365, 366. 
 
 Water-proof and incombustible fabrics, new 
 method for the production of, 422. 
 
 blacking, 320, 321. 
 
 boots, 322. 
 
 cloth which is not impervious to the air, 
 383. 
 
 compounds, of Zwillings, Fournaise's, 386. 
 
 glue, 154, 423. 
 
 glue for wooden utensils, 66. 
 
 mortar, 53. 
 
 grindstones, 51. 
 
 ointments for shoes, 321, 322. 
 
 paint, 263. 
 
 paper, 275. 
 
 sail-cloth, 386. 
 
 skins, to make, 216, 217, 
 
 Water-proofing boots and shoes, French pro- 
 cess, 385. 
 
 compound, English patented, 386. 
 
 compound, new, 388. 
 
 compounds, 382-387. 
 
 fabrics, new process for, 385. 
 
 Water-proofing linen, Ruhr's receipt, 386. 
 
 sugar bags for transportation, 385, 386. 
 
 textile fabrics and paper, and giving them 
 greater consistence, 386. 
 
 textile fabrics, and protecting them against 
 moths, 386, 387. 
 
 tissues, preparations for, 382. 
 
 tissues, various processes for, 383. 
 Wattlen's pyrohth, 30. 
 Wax, adulterated with tallow, 2. 
 
 and wax preparations, 387-389. 
 
 candles, 388. 
 
 floats in alcohol, 2. 
 
 floor, 389. 
 
 for modelling, 389. 
 
 for polishing furniture, 387. 
 
 for threads to be woven, 388. 
 
 from velvet, to remove, 75. 
 
 grafting, 69. 
 
 modelling, superior, 418. 
 
 polishing, 387. 
 
 soap, 387, 388. 
 
 tapers, 388. 
 
 tapers, spirit lacquer for, 389. 
 
 tree, German, 69. 
 
 yellow, for shoemakers, from coal-tar oils, 
 
 257. 
 
 Waxed paper, to prepare, 388. 
 Waxes, coloring of, 387-389. 
 Waxing floors, new compound for, 389. 
 
 threads, to be woven, 388. 
 Weather-proof cement work, 418. 
 Welding and hardening compounds, 238-241. 
 Wells, to remove foul air from, 168. 
 Westermeyer's artificial stone, 49. 
 Weston's process of nickel-plating, 108. 
 Whalebone, artificial, 178. 
 
 ratan as a substitute for, 183. 
 Whiskey, Polish, 23. 
 
 to remove the taste of the barrel from, 
 
 230. 
 White cement, 52. 
 
 chocolate, 58. 
 
 crayons, 79. 
 
 fires, 125. 
 
 metal, components of, 5. 
 
 mustard seed, yield of oil in, 2. 
 
 poppy seed, yield of oil in, 2. 
 
 powder, Augendre's, 30. 
 
 wine vinegar, 360. 
 
 Whitewash closely resembling paint, 165. 
 Wickerscheimer's fluids for preserving corpses, 
 anatomical specimens, etc., 310, 311. 
 
 process of preserving meat for food, 314. 
 Wicks for stearine candles, 171. 
 
 incombustible, 170. 
 
 metallic, 170. 
 Willesdenizing, 453, 454. 
 Willow-ware, 458-460. 
 
 stains for, 458-460. 
 
 varnishing, gilding, painting, and bronz- 
 ing, 460. 
 
 Wilson's preparation of glycerine, 74. 
 Window glass, 142-144. 
 Window-panes which indicate the moisture of 
 
 the atmosphere, 447. 
 Windows, gilding on, 148. 
 Windsor soap, 334. 
 
 Wine and vinegar stains, scouring soap for, 
 76. 
 
 apple, 158. 
 
494 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Wine barrels, to preserve by impregnation, 315, 
 
 316. 
 
 blackberry, 158. 
 birch, 158. 
 lees, for production of tartrate of calcium 
 
 and spirit of wine, 375, 376. 
 must, to improve, 231. 
 port, 231. 
 red, alum in, 3. 
 stains, scouring soap for, 76. 
 stains, to remove, 75. 
 to remove the taste of the barrel from, 
 
 231. 
 
 Wines, artificial, 230, 231. 
 Bordeaux, 230. 
 Burgundy, 230. 
 from fruits, 158-160. 
 Madeira, 231. 
 Malaga, 231. 
 
 remedy for ropiness or viscidity, 231. 
 Wire for musical instruments, 241. 
 to coat with brass, 114. 
 to protect from rust, 242, 243. 
 Wires, gold and silver, alloys for imitating, 8. 
 Wood, American process of preserving, 
 
 395. 
 
 and glue putty, 67. 
 and oil putty, 67. 
 and stone, wash for, 164, 165. 
 artificial, for ornaments, 93. 
 cedar, imitation of, 396. 
 cheap paint for, 263. 
 coloring materials for, 391, 392. 
 cuts, to bleach, 39. 
 crystalline coating for, 421. 
 Denninger's process of staining, for fine 
 
 cabinet work, 391. 
 -filler, American, 421. 
 floors, putty for, 67. 
 floors, to restore the original color of, 
 
 316. 
 
 fire-proof, preparation of, 399. 
 gilding on, 394, 395. 
 
 gilding, polishing, staining, etc., 389-399. 
 hard coating for, 396. 
 how to make almost incombustible, 54. 
 how to preserve, 55. 
 maple, to stain silver-gray, 392, 393. 
 mass for ornaments, 93, 94. 
 method of gilding, 91,92. 
 Moody's new polish for, 394. 
 new colors on, 398, 399. 
 new method of drying, 397. 
 new polish for, 419. 
 new process of preserving, 397, 398. 
 painted with water-glass, 381. 
 -polishing, 211. 
 polishing-wax for, 398. 
 shrinking of, 396. 
 -tar creosotes, 255. 
 -tar for decorations, 93. 
 -tar oil, purification of, 255. 
 to cleanse lacquered and stained, 164. 
 to glass, joining, 66. 
 to make flexible and fire-proof, 389. 
 to make incombustible, 122-V24. 
 to prevent from rotting, 315, 316. 
 to render incombustible and impermeable, 
 
 390. 
 
 to remove ink-stains from, 75. 
 to render fire-proof, 390. 
 
 Wood, to render impermeable to water,- 390. 
 
 varnishes, 208. 
 
 water-proof paint for, 264. 
 Wooden labels, preservation of, 165. 
 
 posts, new paint for, 397. 
 
 posts, to prevent from rotting, 164. 
 
 utensils, water-proof glue for, 66. 
 
 vats, cement for, 64. 
 
 Woods, American, strength of some, 396. 
 Wood's metal, components of, 5. 
 Wool, artificial, 175. 
 
 sheep's, fat from, 450. 
 
 sheep's, potassic sudorate in, 450. 
 
 to bleach white, 36. 
 
 to bleach without sulphur, 36. 
 
 to remove oil from, 346. 
 
 to utilize waste of, 377. 
 
 Woollen and half-woollen fabrics, to watei- 
 proof, 384. 
 
 fabrics, to remove oil from, 346. 
 
 fabrics, to restore the color of, 366. 
 
 fabrics, to water-proof, 384. 
 
 goods and yarns, dyeing of, 96-99. 
 
 goods, sizing for, 322, 323. 
 
 goods, to keep white, 36. 
 
 goods, to protect, 161. 
 
 goods, washing, 367, 368. 
 
 tissues, bleaching, 35. 
 
 tissues, cleansing of, 35, 36. 
 
 waste, to cleanse, 377. 
 
 yarns, size for, 325. 
 Woolly fibre, precipitation of, 274. 
 " Wootz," or Indian steel, 5. 
 Worms and insects, to destroy, 161, 162. 
 Wormwood cordial, 25. 
 
 essence, 16. 
 
 ratafia, 27. 
 
 Wort, boiling of, with hops for brewing, 222. 
 Wounds and ulcers, balsam for, 296. 
 
 balsam for, I(i7, 168. 
 Wringers and washing-machines, composition 
 
 of rollers for, 62. 
 Writing inks, 192-198. 
 
 paper which can be washed, 276. 
 Writings, to duplicate, 86. 
 Wrought-iron castings, 441. 
 
 Yarn, a new French, 349. 
 
 flax, Hartmann's quick method of bleach- 
 ing, 36, 37. 
 pearl, 345. 
 
 Yarns, cotton, size for, 325. 
 silvering or gilding, 92. 
 woollen, size for, 3'25. 
 Yeast, American dry, 401. 
 artificial, 401,402. 
 compressed, from uncrushed cereals, 
 
 226. 
 
 compressed, to make, 227-229. 
 improvements in treating, 402. 
 manufacture of pressed, bakers' and brew- 
 ers', etc., 399-403. 
 pressed, from beer yeast, 402, 403. 
 pressed, Schubert's method of manufact- 
 uring, 399, 400. 
 Vienna pressed, 400. 
 
 Yelks of eggs in tawing, to preserve, 217. 
 Yellow crayons, 79. 
 
 dyes, boiled with alcohol, water, and lime 
 
 water, 3. 
 dyes, the least stable, 3. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 495 
 
 Yellow dyes, the most stable, 3. 
 
 pigments, 209, 270. 
 Ylang ylang, 284. 
 
 Zeiodelite, preparation of, 178. 
 
 Zettler's process of manufacturing Vienna 
 
 pressed yeast, 400, 401. 
 Zinc and aluminium alloys, 4. 
 bath for nickelling, 109. 
 
 Zinc, black varnish for, 209. 
 
 chloride of, to prepare, 72. 
 
 ointment, 167. 
 
 paint, dryer for, 266. 
 
 painting on, 414, 415. 
 
 wash, to prepare, 264. 
 Zinciferous metallic colors, 137, 138. 
 Zincing screw-bolts, 443, 444. 
 Zwilling's water-proofing compound, 286. 
 
OF 
 
 practical and Scientific 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & Co. 
 
 INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHERS, BOOKSELLERS AND IMPORTERS, 
 
 810 Walnut Street, Philadelphia. 
 
 #5" Any f the Books comprised in this Catalogue will be sent by mail, free of 
 postage, to any address in the world, at the publication prices, 
 
 ~ A Descriptive Catalogue, 96 pages, 8vo., will be sent free and free of postage, 
 to any one in any part of the world, who will furnish his address. 
 
 ** Where not otherwise stated, all of the Books in this Catalogue are bound 
 in muslin, 
 
 AMATEUR MECHANICS' WORKSHOP: 
 
 A treatise containing plain and concise directions for the manipula- 
 tion of Wood and Metals, including Casting, Forging, Brazing, 
 Soldering and Carpentry. By the author of the " Lathe and Its 
 Uses." Third edition. Illustrated. 8vo. . . . $3.00 
 
 ANDRES. A Practical Treatise on the Fabrication of Volatile 
 and Fat Varnishes, Lacquers, Siccatives and Sealing 
 Waxes. 
 
 From the German of ERWIN ANDRES, Manufacturer of Varnishes 
 and Lacquers. With additions on the Manufacture and Application 
 of Varnishes, Stains for Wood, Horn, Ivory, Bone and Leather. 
 From the German of DR. EMIL WINCKLER and Louis E. ANDES. 
 The whole translated and edited by WILLIAM T. BRANNT. With 1 1 
 illustrations. I2mo. ....... $2.50 
 
 ARLOT. A Complete Guide for Coach Painters : 
 
 Translated from the French of M. ARLOT, Coach Painter; for 
 eleven years Foreman of Painting to M. Eherler, Conch Maker, 
 Paris. By A. A. FESQUET, Chemist and Engineer. To which is 
 added an Appendix, containing Information respecting the Materials 
 and the Practice of Coach and Car Painting and Varnishing in the 
 United States and Great Britain. I2mo. . . . $1.25 
 
 (0 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 ARMENGAUD, AMOROUX, AND JOHNSON. The Practi- 
 cal Draughtsman's Book of Industrial Design, and Ma- 
 chinist's and Engineer's Drawing Companion : 
 Forming a Complete Course of Mechanical Engineering and Archi- 
 tectural Drawing. From the French of M. Armengaud the elder, 
 Prof, of Design in the Conservatoire of Arts and Industry, Paris, and 
 MM. Armengaud the younger, and Amoroux, Civil Engineers. Re- 
 written and arranged with additional matter and plates, selections from 
 and examples of the most useful and generally employed mechanism 
 of the day. By WILLIAM JOHNSON, Assoc. Inst. C. E. Illustrated 
 by fifty folio steel plates, and fifty wood-cuts. A new edition, 410., 
 half morocco . . . $10.00 
 
 ARMSTRONG. The Construction and Management of Steam 
 
 Boilers : 
 
 By R. ARMSTRONG, C. E. With an Appendix by ROBERT MALLET, 
 C. E., F. R. S. Seventh Edition. Illustrated. I vol. I2mo. 75 
 
 ARROWSMITH. Paper-Hanger's Companion : 
 
 A Treatise in which the Practical Operations of the Trade are 
 Systematically laid down: with Copious Directions Preparatory to 
 Papering; Preventives against the Effect of Damp on Walls; the 
 various Cements and Pastes Adapted to the Several Purposes of 
 the Trade ; Observations and Directions for the Panelling and 
 Ornamenting of Rooms, etc. By JAMES ARROWSMITH. I2mo., 
 cloth $1.25 
 
 ASHTON. The Theory and Practice of the Art of Designing 
 
 Fancy Cotton and Woollen Cloths from Sample : 
 Giving full instructions for reducing drafts, as well as the methods of 
 spooling and making out harness for cross drafts and finding any re- 
 quired reed; with calculations and tables of yarn. By FREDERIC T. 
 ASHTON, Designer, West Pittsfield, Mass. With fifty-two illustrations. 
 One vol. folio $10.00 
 
 AUERBACH CROOKES. Anthracen : 
 
 Its Constitution, Properties, Manufacture and Derivatives, including 
 Aitificial Alizarin, Anthrapurpurin, etc., with their applications in 
 Dyeing and Printing. By G. AUERRACH. Translated and edited 
 fiom the revised manuscript of the Author, by WM. CROOKES, F. R. 
 S., Vice-President of the Chemical Society. 8vo. . . $5.00 
 
 3AIRD. Miscellaneous Papers on Economic Questions. 
 By Henry Carey Baird. (In preparation,} 
 
 BAIRD. The American Cotton Spinner, and Manager's and 
 
 Carder's Guide: 
 
 A Practical Treatise on Cotton Spinning; giving the Dimensions and 
 Speed of Machinery, Draught and Twist Calculations, etc.; with 
 notices of recent Improvements: together with Rules and Examples 
 fur making .changes in the sizes and numbers of Roving and Yarn. 
 Compiled from the papers of the late ROBERT H. BAIRD. I2mo. 
 
 $1.50 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 BAIRD. Standard Wages Computing Tables : 
 
 An Improvement in all former Methods of Computation, so arranged 
 that wages for days, hours, or fractions of hours, at a specified rate 
 per day or hour, may be ascertained at a glance. By T. SPANGLKR 
 BAIRD. Oblong folio $5.00 
 
 BAKER. Long-Span Railway Bridges: 
 
 Comprising Investigations of the Comparative Theoretical and 
 Practical Advantages of the various Adopted or Proposed Type 
 Systems of Construction; with numerous Formulae and Tables. By 
 B. BAKER. I2mo. #1.50 
 
 BAKER. The Mathematical Theory of the Steam-Engine : 
 With Rules at length, and Examples worked out for the use of 
 Practical Men. By T. BAKER, C. E., with numerous Diagrams. 
 Sixth Edition, Revised by Prof. J. R. YOUNG. I2mo. . 75 
 
 BARLOW. The History and Principles of Weaving, by 
 
 Hand and by Power : 
 
 Re-printed, with Considerable Additions, from " Engineering," with 
 a chapter on Lace-making Machinery, reprinted from the Journal of 
 the "Society of Arts." By ALFRED BARLOW. With several hundred 
 illustrations. 8vo., 443 pages $10.00 
 
 BARR. A Practical Treatise on the Combustion of Coal: 
 Including descriptions of various mechanical devices for the Eco- 
 nomic Generation of Heat by the Combustion of Fuel, whether solid, 
 liquid or gaseous. 8vo $2.50 
 
 BARR. A Practical Treatise on High Pressure Steam Boilers: 
 Including Results of Recent Experimental Tests of Boiler Materials, 
 together with a Description of Approved Safety Apparatus, Steam 
 Pumps, Injectors and Economizers in actual use. By WM. M. BARR. 
 204 Illustrations. 8vo. ....... $3.00 
 
 BAUERMAN. A Treatise on the Metallurgy of Iron : 
 
 Containing Outlines of the History of Iron Manufacture, Methods of 
 Assay, and Analysis of Iron Ores, Processes of Manufacture of Iron 
 and Steel, etc., etc. By H. BAUERMAN, F. G. S., Associate of the 
 Royal School of Mines. Fifth Edition, Revised and Enlarged. 
 Illustrated with numerous Wood Engravings from Drawings by J. B, 
 JORDAN. i2mo. $2.00 
 
 BAYLES. House Drainage and Water Service : 
 
 In Cities, Villages and Rural Neighborhoods. With Incidental Con. 
 sideration of Certain Causes Affecting the Health fulness of Dwell- 
 ings. By JAMES C. BAYLES, Editor of " The Iron Age " and " The 
 Metal Worker." With numerous illustrations. 8vo. cloth, $3.00 
 
 BEANS. A Treatise on Railway Curves and Location of 
 
 Railroads : 
 By E. W. BEANS, C. E. Illustrated. I2mo. Tucks . $1.50 
 
 BECKETT. A Rudimentary Treatise on Clocks, and Watches 
 
 and Bells : 
 
 By Sir EDMUND BECKETT, Bart., LL. D., Q. C. F. R. A. S. \Yiih 
 numerous illustrations. Seventh Edition, Revised and Enlnr.t'cd. 
 I2U10 #2.25 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 BELL. Carpentry Made Easy: 
 
 Or, The Science and Art of Framing on a New and Improved 
 System. With Specific Instructions for Building Balloon Frames, Barn 
 Frames, Mi'l Frames, Warehouses, Church Spires, etc. Comprising 
 also a System of Bridge Building, with Bills, Estimates of Cost, and 
 valuable Tables. Illustrated by forty-four plates, comprising Dearly 
 200 figures. By WILLIAM E. BELL, Architect and Practical Builder. 
 8vo. $5-oo 
 
 BEMROSE. Fret-Cutting and Perforated Carving: 
 
 With fifty-three practical illustrations. By W. BEMROSE, JR. I vol. 
 quarto .......... $3.00 
 
 BEMROSE. Manual of Buhl-work and Marquetry: 
 
 With Practical Instructions for Learners, and ninety colored designs. 
 By W. BEMROSE, JR. I vol. quarto .... $3-OO 
 
 BEMROSE. Manual of Wood Carving: 
 
 With Practical Illustrations for Learners of the Art, and Original and 
 Selected Designs. By WILLIAM BEMROSE, JR. With an Intro- 
 duction by LLEWELLYN JEWITT, F. S. A., etc. With 128 illustra- 
 tions, 410. ......... $3.00 
 
 BILLINGS. Tobacco : 
 
 Its History, Variety, Culture, Manufacture, Commerce, and Various 
 Modes of Use. By E. R. BILLINGS. Illustrated by nearly 200 
 engravings. 8vo. . . . . . . . $3.00 
 
 BIRD. The American Practical Dyers' Companion : 
 
 Comprising a Description of the Principal Dye-Stuffs and Chemicals 
 used in Dyeing, their Natures and Uses ; Mordants, and How Made ; 
 with the best American, English, French and German processes for 
 Bleaching and Dyeing Silk, Wool, Cotton, Linen, Flannel, Felt, 
 Dress Goods, Mixed and Hosiery Yarns, Feathers, Grass, Felt, Fur, 
 Wool, and Straw Hats, Jute Yarn, Vegetable Ivory, Mats, Skins, 
 Furs, Leather, etc., etc. By Wood, Aniline, and other Processes, 
 together with Remarks on Finishing Agents, and Instructions in the 
 Finishing of Fabrics, Substitutes for Indigo, Water-Proofing of 
 Materials, Tests and Purification of Water, Manufacture of Aniline 
 and other New Dye Wares, Harmonizing Colors, etc., etc. ; embrac- 
 ing in all over 800 Receipts for Colors and Shades, accompanied by 
 170 Dyed Samples of Raw Materials and Fabrics. By F. J. BIRD, 
 Practical Dyer, Author of "The Dyers' Hand- Book." 8vo. $10.00 
 
 B LINN. A Practical Workshop Companion for Tin, Sheet- 
 Iron, and Copper-plate Workers : 
 
 Containing Rules for describing various kinds of Patterns used by 
 Tin, Sheet-Iron and Copper- plate Workers; Practical Geometry; 
 Mensuration of Surfaces and Solids ; Tables of the Weights of 
 Metals, Lead-pipe, etc.; Tables of Areas and Circumferences 
 of Circles; Japan, Varnishes, Lackers, Cements, Compositions, etc., 
 etc. By LEROY J. BLINN, Master Mechanic. With over One 
 Hundred Illustrations. I2mo. $2.50 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 BOOTH. Marble Worker's Manual: 
 
 Containing Practical Information respecting Marbles in general, their 
 Cutting, Working and Polishing ; Veneering of Marble ; Mosaics ; 
 Composition and Use of Artificial Marble, Stuccos, Cements, Receipts, 
 Secrets, etc., etc. Translated from the French by M. L. BOOTH. 
 \VithanAppendixconcerningAmericanMarbles. I2mo., cloth $1.50 
 BOOTH and MORFIT. The Encyclopaedia of Chemistry, 
 
 Practical and Theoretical : 
 
 Embracing its application to the Arts, Metallurgy, Mineralogy, 
 Geology, Medicine and Pharmacy. By JAMES C. BOOTH, Melter 
 and Refiner in the United States Mint, Professor of Applied Chem- 
 istry in the Franklin Institute, etc., assisted by CAMPBELL MORFIT, 
 author of " Chemical Manipulations," etc. Seventh Edition. Com- 
 plete in one volume, royal 8vo., 978 pages, with numerous wood-cuts 
 and other illustrations . . ... . . . $5-OO 
 
 BRAMWELL. The Wool Carder's Vade-Mecum: 
 
 A Complete Manual of the Art of Carding Textile Fabrics. By W. 
 C. BRAMWELL. Third Edition, revised and enlarged. Illustrated. 
 Pp. 400. I2mo $2.50 
 
 BRANNT. A Practical Treatise on Animal and Vegetable 
 
 Fats and Oils : 
 
 Comprising both fixed and volatile oils, their physical and chemical 
 properties, the manner of extracting and refining them, and practical 
 rules for testing them ; as well as the manufacture of Artificial Butter, 
 Lubricants, etc. Edited chiefly from the German of Drs. KARL 
 SCHAEDLER, G. \V. ASKINSON, and RICHARD BRUNNER, with addi- 
 tions. By WILLIAM T. BRANNT. Illustrated by numerous Engrav- 
 ings. About 600 pages. 8vo. (In Press.) . . . $ . 
 
 BRANNT. A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Soap 
 
 and Candles : 
 
 Based upon the most Recent Experiences in the Practice and Science ; 
 comprising the Chemistry, Raw Materials, Machinery, and Utensils 
 and Various Processes of Manufacture. Edited from the German of 
 Dr. C. DEITE, A. ENGELHARDT, Dr. C. SCHAEDLER, and others. 
 By WILLIAM T. BRANNT. Illustrated by numerous Engravings. 8vo. 
 (In Preparation.) $ . 
 
 BRANNT. A Practical Treatise on the Raw Materials and the 
 Distillation and Rectification of Alcohol, and the Prepara- 
 tion of Alcoholic Liquors, Liqueurs, Cordials, Bitters, etc. : 
 Edited chiefly from the German of Dr. K. Stammer, Dr. F. Eisner, 
 and E. Schubert. By WM. T. BRANNT. Illustrated by thirty-one 
 engravings. I2mo. ....... $2.50 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 BRANNT WAHL. The Techno- Chemical Receipt Book: 
 
 Containing several thousand Receipts covering the latest, most im 
 portant, and most useful discoveries in Chemical Technology, and 
 their Practical Application in the Arts and the Industries. Edited 
 chiefly from the German of Drs. Winckler, Eisner, Heintze, Mier- 
 zinski, Jacobsen, Roller, and Heinzerling, with additions by WM. T. 
 BRANNT and WM. H. WAHL, PH. D. Illustrated by 78 engravings. 
 I2mo. 495 pages . . . #200 
 
 BROWN. Five Hundred and Seven Mechanical Movements. 
 Embracing all those which are most important in Dynamics, Hy- 
 draulics, Hydrostatics, Pneumatics, Steam-Engines, Mill and othei 
 Gearing, Presses, Horology and Miscellaneous Machinery; and in- 
 cluding many movements never before published, and several of 
 which have only recently come into use. By HENRY T. BROWN. 
 I2mo. .......... $i.oc 
 
 BUCKMASTER. The Elements of Mechanical Physics : 
 By J. C. BUCKMASTER. Illustrated with numerous engravings. 
 I2mo. .......... $1-5 
 
 BULLOCK. The American Cottage Builder : 
 
 A Series of Designs, Plans and Specifications, from $200 to $20,000, 
 for Homes for the People ; together with Warming, Ventilation, 
 Drainage, Painting and Landscape Gardening. By JOHN BULLOCK, 
 Architect and Editor of " The Rudiments of Architecture and 
 Building," etc., etc. Illustrated by 75 engravings. 8vo. $3-5Q 
 
 BULLOCK. The Rudiments of Architecture and Building : 
 For the use of Architects, Builders, Draughtsmen, Machinists, En- 
 gineers and Mechanics. Edited by JOHN BULLOCK, author of " The 
 American Cottage Builder." Illustrated by 250 Engravings. 8vo. $3.50 
 
 BURGH. Practical Rules for the Proportions of Modern 
 
 Engines and Boilers for Land and Marine Purposes. 
 By N. P. BURGH, Engineer. 12010. . . . . $1.50 
 
 BYLES. Sophisms of Free Trade and Popular Political 
 
 Economy Examined. 
 
 By a BARRISTER (SIR JOHN BARNARD BYLES, Judge of Common 
 Pleas). From the Ninth English Edition, as published by the 
 Manchester Reciprocity Association. I2mo. . . . $1.25 
 
 BOWMAN. The Structure of the Wool Fibre in its Relation 
 
 to the Use of Wool for Technical Purposes : 
 Being the substance, with additions, of Five Lectures, delivered at 
 the request of the Council, to the members of the Bradford Technical 
 College, and the Society of Dyers and Colorists. By F. II. BOW- 
 MAN, D. Sc., F. R. S. E., F. L. S. Illustrated by 32 engravings. 
 Svo $6.50 
 
 BYRNE. Hand-Book for the Artisan, Mechanic, and Engi- 
 neer : 
 
 Comprising the Grinding and Sharpening of Cutting Tools, Abrasive 
 Processes, Lapidary Work, Gem and Glass Engraving, Varnishing 
 and Lackering, Apparatus, Materials and Processes for Grinding and 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 7 
 
 Polishing, etc. By OLIVER BYRNE. Illustrated by 185 wood en- 
 gravings. 8vo. . . . . . . . $5.00 
 
 BYRNE. Pocket-Book for Railroad and Civil Engineers : 
 Containing New, Exact and Concise Methods for Laying out Railroad 
 Curves, Switches, Frog Angles and Crossings ; the Staking out of 
 work; Levelling; the Calculation of Cuttings; Embankments; Earth- 
 work, etc. By OLIVER BYRNE. i8mo., full bpund, pocket-book 
 form $!-75 
 
 BYRNE. The Practical Metal- Worker's Assistant : 
 
 Comprising Metallurgic Chemistry; the Arts of Working all Metals 
 and Alloys; Forging of Iron and Steel; Hardening and Tempering; 
 Melting and Mixing; Casting and Founding; Works in Sheet Metal; 
 the Processes Dependent on the Ductility of the Metals; Soldering; 
 and the most Improved Processes and Tools employed by Metal- 
 Workers. With the Application of the Art of Electro-Metallurgy to 
 Manufacturing Processes; collected from Original Sources, and from 
 the works of Holtzapffel, Bergeron, Leupold, Plumier, Napier, 
 Scoffern, Clay, Fairbairn and others. By OLIVER BYRNE. A new, 
 revised and improved edition, to which is added an Appendix, con- 
 taining The Manufacture of Russian Sheet- Iron. By JOHN PERCY, 
 M. D., F. R. S. The Manufacture of Malleable Iron Castings, and 
 Improvements in Bessemer Steel. By A. A. FESQUET, Chemist and 
 Engineer. With over Six Hundred Engravings, Illustrating every 
 Branch of the Subject. 8vo $7.00 
 
 BYRNE. The Practical Model Calculator: 
 
 For the Engineer, Mechanic, Manufacturer of Engine Work, Nava> 
 Architect, Miner and Millwright. By OLIVER BYRNE. 8vo., nearly 
 600 pages ......... $4.50 
 
 CABINET MAKER'S ALBUM OF FURNITURE: 
 
 Comprising a Collection of Designs for various Styles of Furniture. 
 Illustrated by Forty-eight Large and Beautifully Engraved Plates. 
 Oblong, 8vo $3.50 
 
 CALLINGHAM. Sign Writing and Glass Embossing: 
 
 A Complete Practical Illustrated Manual of the Art. By JAMES 
 CALLINGHAM. i2mo #1.50 
 
 CAMPIN. A Practical Treatise on Mechanical Engineering: 
 Comprising Metallurgy, Moulding, Casting, Forging, Tools, Work- 
 shop Machinery, Mechanical Manipulation, Manufacture of Steam- 
 Engines, etc. With an Appendix on the Analysis of Iron and Iron 
 Ores. By FRANCIS CAMPIN, C. E. To which are added, Observations 
 on the Construction of Steam Boilers, and Remarks upon Furnaces 
 used for Smoke Prevention ; with a Chapter on Explosions. By R. 
 ARMSTRONG, C. E., and JOHN BOURNE. Rules for Calculating the 
 Change Wheels for Screws on a Turning Lathe, and for a Wheel 
 cutting Machine. By J. LA NICCA. Management of Steel, Includ- 
 ing Forging, Hardening, Tempering, Annealing, Shrinking and 
 Expansion; and the Case-hardening of Iron. By G. EDE. 8vo. 
 Illustrated with twenty-nine plates and 100 wood engravings $5.00 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 CAREY. A Memoir of Henry C. Carey. 
 
 By DR. WM. ELDER. With a portrait. 8vo., cloth . . 75 
 
 CAREY. The Works of Henry C. Carey : 
 
 Harmony of Interests : Agricultural, Manufacturing and Commer- 
 cial. 8vo. ..... . $1.50 
 
 Manual of Social Science. Condensed from Carey's " Principles 
 of Social Science." By KATE McKEAN. i vol. I2mo. . $2.25 
 Miscellaneous Works. With a Portrait. * vols. 8vo. $6.00 
 
 Past, Present and Future. 8vo $2.50 
 
 Principles of Social Science. 3 volumes, 8vo. . . $10.00 
 The Slave-Trade, Domestic and Foreign; Why it Exists, and 
 How it may be Extinguished (1853). 8vo. . . . $2.00 
 The Unity of Law : As Exhibited in the Relations of Physical, 
 Social, Mental and Moral Science (1872). 8vo. . . #3.50 
 
 CLARK. Tramways, their Construction and Working : 
 
 Embracing a Comprehensive History of the System. With an ex- 
 haustive analyses of the various modes of traction, including horse- 
 power, steam, healed water and compressed air; a description of the 
 varieties of Rolling stock, and ample details of cost and working ex- 
 penses. By D. KINNEAR CLARK. Illustrated by over 200 wood 
 engravings, and thirteen folding plates. 2 vols. 8vo. . $12.50 
 
 COLBURN. The Locomotive Engine : 
 
 Including a Description of its Structure, Rules for Estimating its 
 Capabilities, and Practical Observations on its Construction and Man- 
 agement. By ZERAH COLBURN. Illustrated. I2mo. . $1.00 
 
 COLLENS. The Eden of Labor; or, the Christian Utopia. 
 By T. WHARTON COLLENS, author of " Humanics," " The History 
 of Charity," etc. I2mo. Paper cover, $1.00; Cloth . $1.25 
 
 COOLEY. A Complete Practical Treatise on Perfumery : 
 Being a Hand-book of Perfumes, Cosmetics and other Toilet Articles. 
 With a Comprehensive Collection of Formulae. By ARNOLD J. 
 COOLEY. I2mo. . $1.50 
 
 COOPER. A Treatise on the use of Belting for the Trans- 
 mission of Power. 
 
 With numerous illustrations of approved and actual methods of ar- 
 ranging Main Driving and Quarter Twist Belts, and of Belt Fasten- 
 ings. Examples and Rules in great number for exhibiting and cal- 
 culating the size and driving power of Belts. Plain, Particular and 
 Practical Directions for the Treatment, Care and Management of 
 Belts. Descriptions of many varieties of Beltings, together with 
 chapters on the Transmission of Power by Ropes; by Iron and 
 Wood Frictional Gearing; on the Strength of Belting Leather; and 
 on the Experimental Investigations of Morin, Briggs, and others. By 
 JOHN H. COOPER, M. E. 8vo $3-S 
 
 CRAIK. The Practical American Millwright and Miller. 
 
 By DAVID CRAIK, Millwright. Illustrated by numerous wood en- 
 gravings and two folding plates. 8vo $5-OO 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 CRISTIANI. A Technical Treatise on Soap and Candles: 
 
 With a Glance at the Industry of Fats and Oils. By R. S. CRIS- 
 TIANI, Chemist. Author of "Perfumery and Kindred Arts." Illus- 
 trated by 176 engravings. 581 pages, 8vo. . . . $7.50 
 .CRISTIANL Perfumery and Kindred Arts: 
 
 A Comprehensive Treatise on Perfumery, containing a History of 
 Perfumes from the remotest ages to the present time. A complete 
 detailed description of the various Materials and Apparatus used in 
 the Perfumer's Art, with thorough Practical Instruction and careful 
 Formulae, and advice for the fabrication of all known preparations of 
 the day, including Essences, Tinctures, Extracts, Spirits, Waters, 
 Vinegars, Pomades, Powders, Paints, Oils, Emulsions, Cosmetics, 
 Infusions, Pastilles, Tooth Powders and Washes, Cachous, Hair Dyes, 
 Sachets, Essential Oils, Flavoring Extracts, etc. ; and full details for 
 making and manipulating Fancy Toilet Soaps, Shaving Creams, etc., 
 by new and improved methods. With an Appendix giving hints and 
 advice for making and fermenting Domestic Wines, Cordials, Liquors, 
 Candies, Jellies, Syrups, Colors, etc., and for Perfuming and Flavor- 
 ing Segars, Snuff and Tobacco, and Miscellaneous Receipts for 
 various useful Analogous Articles. By R. S. CRISTIANI, Con- 
 sulting Chemist and Perfumer, Philadelphia. 8vo. . . #5.00 
 
 CUPPER. The Universal Stair-Builder : 
 
 Being a new Treatise on the Construction of Stair-Cases and Hand- 
 Rails; showing Plans of the various forms of Stairs, method of 
 Placing the Risers in the Cylinders, general method of describing 
 the Face Moulds for a Hand- Rail, and an expeditious method of 
 Squaring the Rail. Useful also to Stonemasons constructing Stone 
 Stairs and Hand-Rails ; with a new method of Sawing the Twist 
 Part of any Hand-Rail square from the face of the plank, and to a 
 parallel width. Also, a new method of forming the Easings of the 
 Rail by a gauge ; preceded by some necessary Problems in Practical 
 Geometry, with the Sections of Prismatic Solids. Illustrated by 29 
 plates. By R. A. CUPPER, Architect, author of " The Practical 
 Stair-Builder's Guide." Third Edition. Large 4to. 
 
 DAVIDSON. A Practical Manual of House Painting, Grain- 
 ing, Marbling, and Sign- Writing : 
 
 Containing full information on the processes of House Painting in 
 Oil and Distemper, the Formation of Letters and Practice of Sign- 
 Writing, the Principles of Decorative Art, a Course of Elementary 
 Drawing for House Painters, Writers, etc., and a Collection of Useful 
 Receipts. With nine colored illustrations of Woods and Marbles, 
 and numerous wood engravings. By ELLIS A. DAVIDSON. I2mo. 
 
 $3- 
 
 DAVIES. A Treatise on Earthy and Other Minerals and 
 
 Mining : 
 
 By D. C. DAVIES, F. G. S., Mining Engineer, etc. Illustrated by 
 76 Engravings. I2mo. ....... $5- 
 
to HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 DA VIES. A Treatise on Metalliferous Minerals and Mining: 
 By D. C. DAVIES, F. G. S., Mining Engineer, Examiner of Mines, 
 Quarries and Collieries. Illustrated by 148 engravings of Geological 
 Formations, Mining Operations and Machinery, drawn from the 
 practice of all parts of the world. 2d Edition, I2mo., 450 pages $5.00 
 
 DAVIES. A Treatise on Slate and Slate Quarrying: 
 Scientific, Practical and Commercial. By D. C. DAVIES, F. G. S., 
 Mining Engineer, etc. With numerous illustrations and folding 
 plates. I2mo. $2.50 
 
 DAVIS. A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Bricks, 
 Tiles, Terra-Cotta, etc. : 
 
 Including Common, Pressed, Ornamentally Shaped, and Enamelled 
 Bricks, Drain-Tiles, Straight and Curved Sewer- Pipes, Fire-Clays, 
 Fire-Bricks, Terra-Cotta, Roofing- Tiles, Flooring-Tiles, Ait-Tiles, 
 Mosaic Plates, and Imitation of Intarsia or Inlaid Surfaces; com- 
 prising every important Product of Clay employed in Architecture, 
 Engineering, the Blast-Furnace, for Retorts, etc., with a History and 
 the Actual Processes in Handling, Disintegrating, Tempering, and 
 Moulding the Clay into Shape, Drying Naturally and Artificially, 
 Setting and Burning, Enamelling in Polychrome Colors, Composition 
 and Application of Glazes, etc.; including Full Detailed Descriptions 
 of the most modern Machines, Tools, Kilns, and Kiln-Roofs used. 
 By CHARLES THOMAS DAVIS. Illustrated by 228 Engravings and 
 6 Plates. 8vo., 472 pages . . . . . . $5.00 
 
 DAVIS. The Manufacture of Leather: 
 
 Being a description of all of the Processes for the Tanning, Tawing, 
 Currying, Finishing and Dyeing of every kind of Leather ; including 
 the various Raw Materials and the Methods for Determining their 
 Values; the Tools, Machines, and all Details of Importance con- 
 nected with an Intelligent and Profitable Prosecution of the Art, with 
 Special Reference to the Best American Practice. To which are 
 added Complete Lists of all American Patents for Materials, Pro- 
 cesses, Tools, and Machines for Tanning, Currying, etc. By CHARLES 
 THOMAS DAVIS. Illustrated by 302 engravings and 12 Samples of 
 Dyed Leathers. One vol., 8vo., 824 pages . . . $10.00 
 DAWIDOWSKY BRANNT. A Practical Treatise on the 
 Raw Materials and Fabrication of Glue, Gelatine, Gelatine 
 Veneers and Foils, Isinglass, Cements, Pastes, Mucilages, 
 etc. : 
 
 Eased upon Actual Experience. By F. DAWIDOWSKY, Technical 
 Chemist. Translated from the German, with extensive additions, 
 including a description of the most Recent American Processes, by 
 WILLIAM T. BRANNT, Graduate of the Royal Agricultural College 
 of Eldena, Prussia. 35 Engravings. I2mo. . . . $2.50 
 
 DE GRAFF. The Geometrical Stair-Builders' Guide: 
 
 Being a Plain Practical System of Hand-Railing, embracing all its 
 necessary Details, and Geometrically Illustrated by twenty-two Steel 
 Engravings ; together with the use of the most approved principles 
 of Practical Geometry. By SIMON DE GRAFF, Architect. 4to. 
 
 $2. So 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO'.S CATALOGUE. n 
 
 DE KONINCK DIETZ. A Practical Manual of Chemical 
 
 Analysis and Assaying : 
 
 As applied to the Manufacture of Iron from its Ores, and to Cast Iron, 
 Wrought Iron, and Steel, as found in Commerce. By L. L. D 
 KONINCK, Dr. Sc., and E. DIETZ, Engineer. Edited with Notes, by 
 ROBERT MALLET, F. R. S., F. S. G., M. I. C. E., etc. American 
 Edition, Edited with Notes and an Appendix on Iron Ores, by A. A. 
 FESQUET, Chemist and Engineer. I2mo. . . . $2.50' 
 
 DUNCAN. Practical Surveyor's Guide: 
 
 Containing the necessary information to make any person of com- 
 mon capacity, a finished land surveyor without the aid of a teacher. 
 By ANDREW DUNCAN. Illustrated. I2mo. . . . $1.25 
 
 DUPLAIS. A Treatise on the Manufacture and Distillation 
 
 of Alcoholic Liquors : 
 
 Comprising Accurate and Complete Details in Regard to Alcohol 
 from Wine, Molasses, Beets, Gmin, Rice, Potatoes, Sorghum, Aspho- 
 del, Fruits, etc.; with the Distillation and Rectification of Brandy, 
 Whiskey, Rum, Gin, Swiss Absinthe, etc., the Preparation of Aro- 
 matic Waters, Volatile Oils or Essences, Sugars, Syrups, Aromatic 
 Tinctures, Liqueurs, Cordial Wines, Effervescing Wines, etc., the 
 Ageing of Brandy and the improvement of Spirits, with Copious 
 Directions and Tables for Testing and Reducing Spirituous Liquors, 
 etc., etc. Translated and Edited from the French of MM. DUPLAIS, 
 Aine et Jeune. By M. McKENNiE, M. D. To which are added the 
 United States Internal Revenue Regulations for the Assessment and 
 Collection of Taxes on Distilled Spirits. Illustrated by fourteen 
 folding plates and several wood engravings. 743 pp. 8vo. $10 oo 
 
 DUSSAUCE. A General Treatise on the Manufacture of 
 
 Vinegar : 
 
 Theoretical and Practical. Comprising the various Methods, by the 
 Slow and the Quick Processes, with Alcohol, Wine, Grain, Malt, 
 Cider, Molasses, and Beets; as well as the Fabrication of Wood 
 Vinegar, etc., etc. By Prof. H. DUSSAUCE. 8vo. . $5 oo 
 
 DUSSAUCE. Practical Treatise on the Fabrication of Matches, 
 
 Gun Cotton, and Fulminating Powder. 
 By Professor H. DUSSAUCE. I2mo $3 oo 
 
 DYER AND COLOR-MAKER'S COMPANION: 
 
 Containing upwards of two hundred Receipts for making Colors, on 
 the most approved principles, for all the various styles and fabrics now 
 in existence ; with the Scouring Process, and plain Directions for 
 Preparing, Washing-off, and Finishing the Goods. I2mo. $i 2$ 
 
 EDWARDS. A Catechism of the Marine Steam-Engine, 
 For the use of Engineers, Firemen, and Mechanics. A Practical 
 Work for Practical Men. By EMORY EDWARDS, Mechanical Engi- 
 neer. Illustrated by sixty-three Engravings, including examples of 
 the most modern Engines. Third edition, thoroughly revised, with 
 much additional matter. 12 mo. 414 pages . . . $200 
 
 EDWARDS. Modern American Locomotive Engines, 
 Their Design, Construction and Management. By EMORY EDWARDS. 
 Illustrated I2mo. 2 oo 
 
12 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 EDWARDS. Modern American Marine Engines, Boilers, and 
 
 Screw Propellers, 
 
 Their Design and Construction. Showing the Present Practice of 
 the most Eminent Engineers and Marine Engine Builders in the 
 United States. Illustrated by 30 large and elaborate plates. 4to. $5.00 
 
 EDWARDS. The Practical Steam Engineer's Guide 
 
 In the Design, Construction, and Management of American Stationary, 
 Portable, and Steam Fire- Engines, Steam Pumps, Boilers, Injectors, 
 Governors, Indicators, Pistons and Rings, Safety Valves and Steam 
 Gauges. For the use of Engineers, Firemen, and Steam Users. By 
 EMORY EDWARDS. Illustrated by 119 engravings. 420 pages, 
 I2mo $2 50 
 
 ELDER. Conversations on the Principal Subjects of Political 
 
 Economy. 
 By Dr. WILLIAM ELDER. 8vo. $2 50 
 
 ELDER. Questions of the Day, 
 
 Economic and Social. By Dr. WILLIAM ELDER. 8vo. . $3 oo 
 
 ELDER. Memoir of Henry C. Carey. 
 
 By Dr. WILLIAM ELDER. 8vo. cloth 75 
 
 ERNI. Mineralogy Simplified. 
 
 Easy Methods of Determining and Classifying Minerals, including 
 Ores, by means of the Blowj ipe, and by Humid Chemical Analysis, 
 based on Professor von K obeli's Tables for the Determination of 
 Minerals, with an Introduction to Modern Chemistry. By HENRY 
 ERNI, A.M., M.D., Professor of Chemistry. Second Edition, rewritten, 
 enlarged and improved. I2mo. 33 
 
 FAIRBAIRN. The Principles of Mechanism and Machinery 
 
 of Transmission 
 
 Comprising the Principles of Mechanism, Wheels, and Pulleys, 
 Strength and Proportions of Shafts, Coupling of Shafts, and Engag- 
 ing and Disengaging Gear. By SIR WILLIAM FAIRBAIRN, Bait. 
 C. E. Beautifully illustrated by over 150 wood-cuts. In one 
 volume, I2mo #2.50 
 
 FITCH. Bessemer Steel, 
 
 Ores and Methods, New Facts and Statistics Relating to the Types 
 of Machinery in Use, the Methods in Vogue, Cost and Class of Labor 
 employed, and the Character and Availability of the Ores utilized in 
 the Manufacture of Bessemer Steel in Europe and in the United States ; 
 together with opinions and excerpts from various accepted authorities. 
 Compiled and arranged by THOMAS W. FITCH. 8vo. . $3 oo 
 
 JTLEMING. Narrow Gauge Railways in America. 
 
 A Sketch of their Rise, Progress, and Success. Valuable Statistics 
 as to Grades, Curves, Weight of Rail, Locomotives, Cars, etc. By 
 
 ! HOWARD FLEMING. Illustrated, 8vo $i 50 
 
 FORSYTH. Book of Designs for Headstones, Mural, and 
 
 other Monuments : 
 
 Containing 78 Designs. By JAMES FORSYTH. With an Introduction 
 by CHARLES BOUTELL, M. A. 4 to., cloth . . . #5 oo 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 13 
 
 FRANKEL HUTTER. A Practical Treatise on the Manu- 
 facture of Starch, Glucose, Starch- Sugar, and Dextrine : 
 Based on the German of LADISLAUS VON WAGNER, Professor in the 
 Royal Technical High School, Buda-Pest, Hungary, and other 
 authorities. By JULIUS FRANKEL, Graduate of the Polytechnic 
 School of Hanover. Edited by ROBERT HUTTER, Chemist, Practical, 
 Manufacturer of Starch-Sugar. Illustrated by 58 engravings, cover- 
 ing every branch of the subject, including examples of the most 
 Recent and Best American Machinery. 8vo., 344 pp. . $3.50 
 
 GEE. The Goldsmith's Handbook : 
 
 Containing full instructions for the Alloying and Working of Gold, 
 including the Art of Alloying, Melting, Reducing, Coloring, Col- 
 lecting, and Refining; the Processes of Manipulation, Recovery of 
 Waste; Chemical and Physical Properties of Gold; with a New 
 System of Mixing its Alloys; Solders, Enamels, and other Useful 
 Rules and Recipes. By GEORGE E. GEE. I2mo. . . $i-75 
 
 GEE. The Silversmith's Handbook : 
 
 Containing full instructions for the Alloying and Working of Silver, 
 including the different modes of Refining and Melting the Metal ; its 
 Solders; the Preparation of Imitation Alloys; Methods of Manipula- 
 tion; Prevention of Waste ; Instructions for Improving and Finishing 
 the Surface of the Work ; together with other Useful Information and 
 Memoranda. By GEORGE E. GEE, Jeweller. Illustrated. I2mo. 
 
 *'-75 
 
 GOTHIC ALBUM FOR CABINET-MAKERS : 
 
 Designs for Gothic Furniture. Twenty-three plates. Oblong $2.00 
 
 GREENWOOD. Steel and Iron: 
 
 Comprising the Practice and Theory of the Several Methods Pur- 
 sued in their Manufacture, and of their Treatment in the Rolling- 
 Mil Is, the Forge, and the Foundry. By WILLIAM HENRY GREEN- 
 WOOD, F. C. S. Asso. M. I. C. E., M. I. M. E., Associate of the Royal 
 School of Mines. With 97 Diagrams, 536 pages. I2mo. . #2.00 
 
 GREGORY. Mathematics for Practical Men: 
 
 Adapted to the Pursuits of Surveyors, Architects, Mechanics, and 
 Civil Engineers. By OLINTHUS GREGORY. 8vo., plates . $3.00 
 
 GRIER. Rural Hydraulics: 
 
 A Practical Treatise on Rural Household Water Supply. Giving a 
 full description of Springs and Wells, of Pumps and Hydraulic Ram, 
 with Instructions in Cistern Building, Laying of Pipes, etc. By W. 
 W. GRIER. Illustrated 8vo 75 
 
 GRIMSH AW. Modern Milling: 
 
 Being the substance of two addresses delivered by request, at the 
 Franklin Institute, Philadelphia, January iQth and January 2yth, 
 1881. By ROBERT GRIMSHAW, Ph. D. Edited from the Phono- 
 graphic Reports. With 28 Illustrations. 8vo. . . $1.00 
 
 GRIMSHAW. Saws : 
 
 The History, Development, Action, Classification, and Comparison 
 of Saws of all kinds. With Copious Appendices. Giving the details 
 
14 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 of Manufacture, Filing, Setting, Gumming, etc. Care and Use of 
 Saws ; Tables of Gauges ; Capacities of Saw-Mills ; List of Saw- 
 Patents, and other valuable information. By ROBERT GRIMSHAW. 
 Second and greatly enlarged edition, with Supplement, and 354 Illus- 
 trations. Quarto $4.00 
 
 GRIMSHAW. A Supplement to Grimshaw on Saws: 
 
 Containing additional practical matter, more especially relating to the 
 Forms of Saw-Teeth, for special material and conditions, and to the 
 Behavior of Saws under particular conditions. 120 Illustrations. By 
 ROHERT GRIMSHAW. Quarto $2.00 
 
 GRISWOLD. Railroad Engineer's Pocket Companion for the 
 
 Field : 
 
 Comprising Rules for Calculating Deflection Distances and Angles, 
 Tangential Distances and Angles, and all Necessary Tables for En- 
 gineers; also the Art of Levelling from Preliminary Survey to the 
 Construction of Railroads, intended Expressly for the Young En- 
 gineer, together with Numerous Valuable Rules and Examples. By 
 W. GRISWOLD. i2mo., tucks $i-75 
 
 GRUNER. Studies of Blast Furnace Phenomena: 
 
 By M. L. GRUNER, President of the General Council of Mines of 
 France, and lately Professor of Metallurgy at the Ecole des Mines. 
 Translated, with the author's sanction, with an Appendix, by L. D. 
 B. GORDON, F. R. S. E., F. G. S. 8vo. . . . $2.50 
 
 GUETTIER. Metallic Alloys: 
 
 Being a Practical Guide to their Chemical and Physical Properties, 
 their Preparation, Composition, and Uses. Translated from the 
 French of A. GUETTIER, Engineer and Director of Founderies, 
 author of " La Fouderie en France," etc., etc. By A. A. FESQUET, 
 Chemist and Engineer. I2mo. . . . . $3.00 
 
 HASERICK. The Secrets of the Art of Dyeing Wool, Cotton, 
 
 and Linen, 
 
 Including B caching and Coloring Wool and Cotton Hosiery and 
 Random Yarns. A Treatise based on Economy and Practice. By 
 E. C. HASERICK. Illustrated by 323 Dyed Patterns of the Yarns 
 or Fabrics. 8vo. $25.00 
 
 HATS AND FELTING: 
 
 A Practical Treatise on their Manufacture. By a Practical Hatter. 
 Illustrated by Drawings of Machinery, etc. 8vo. . . $1.25 
 
 HENRY. The Early and Later History of Petroleum : 
 
 With Authentic Facts in regard to its Development in Western Penn- 
 sylvania. With Sketches of the Pioneer and Prominent Operators, 
 togt-ther with the Refining Capacity of the United States. By J. T. 
 HENRY. Illustrated 8vo. ...... 
 
 HOFFER. A Practical Treatise on Caoutchouc and Gutta 
 
 Percha, 
 
 Comprising the Properties of the Raw Materials, and the manner of 
 Mixing and Working them; with the Fabrication of Vulcani/ed and 
 Hard Rubbers, Caoutchouc and Gutta Percha Compositions, Water- 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. i$ 
 
 proof Substances, Elastic Tissues, the Utilization of Waste, etc., eic. 
 From the German of RAIMUND HOFFER. By W. T. I? RAN NT. 
 Illustrated I2mo. . . . ... . . . $2.50 
 
 HOFMANN. A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of 
 
 Paper in all its Branches : 
 
 By CARL HOFMANN, Late Superintendent of Paper-Mills in Germany 
 and the United States; recently Manager of the "Public Ledger" 
 Paper Mills, near Elkton, Maryland. Illustrated by no wood en- 
 gravings, and five large Folding Plates. 4to., cloth; about 400 
 pages $3$.oo 
 
 HUGHES. American Miller and Millwright's Assistant: 
 By WILLIAM CA.RTER HUGHES. i2mo. .... $1.50 
 
 HULME. Worked Examination Questions in Plane Geomet- 
 rical Drawing : 
 
 For the Use of Candidates for the Royal Military Academy, Wool- 
 wich; the Royal Military College, Sandhurst ; the Indian Civil En- 
 gineering College, Cooper's Hill ; Indian Public Works and Tele- 
 graph Departments ; Royal Marine Light Infantry; the Oxford and 
 Cambridge Local Examinations, etc. By F. EDWARD HULME, F. L. 
 S., F. S. A., Art-Master Marlborough College. Illustrated by 300 
 examples. Small quarto #3-75 
 
 JER VIS. Railroad Property: 
 
 A Treatise on the Construction and Management of Railways; 
 designed to afford useful knowledge, in the popular style, to the 
 holders of this class of property ; as well as Railway Managers, Offi- 
 cers, and Agents. By JOHN B. JERVIS, late Civil Engineer of the 
 Hudson River Railroad, Croton Aqueduct, etc. i2mo., cloth $2.00 
 
 KEENE. A Hand-Book of Practical Gauging : 
 
 For the Use of Beginners, to which is added a Chapter on Distilla- 
 tion, describing the process in operation at the Custom- House for 
 ascertaining the Strength of Wines. By JAMES B. KEENE, of H. M. 
 Customs. 8vo. #1.25 
 
 KELLEY. Speeches, Addresses, and Letters on Industrial and 
 
 Financial Questions : 
 By HON. WILLIAM D. KELLEY, M. C. 544 pages, 8vo. . $3.00 
 
 KELLOGG. A New Monetary System : 
 
 The only means of Securing the respective Rights of Labor and 
 Property, and of Protecting the Public from Financial Revulsions. 
 By EDWARD KELLOGG. Revised from his work on " Labor and 
 other Capital." With numerous additions from his m~mi c rript. 
 Edited by MARY KELLOGG PUTNAM. Fifth edition. To which is 
 added a Biographical Sketch of the Author. One volume, I2mo. 
 
 Paper cover $1.00 
 
 Bound in cloth 1-5 
 
 fcEMLO. Watch-Repairer's Hand-Book : 
 
 Being a Complete Guide to the Young Beginner, in Taking Apart, 
 Putting Together, and Thoroughly Cleaning the English Lever and 
 other Foreign Watches, and all American Watches. By F. KEMLO, 
 Practical Watchmaker. With Illustrations. I2mo. . #1.25 
 
16 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 KENTISH. A Treatise on a Box of Instruments, 
 
 And the Slide Rule; with the Theory of Trigonometry and Loga- 
 rithms, .including Practical Geometry, Surveying, Measuring of Tim- 
 ber, Cask and Malt Gauging, Heights, and Distances. By THOMAS 
 KENTISH. In one volume. I2mo. .... $1.25 
 
 KERL. The Assayer's Manual: 
 
 An Abridged Treatise on the Docimastic Examination of Ores, and 
 Furnace and other Artificial Products. By BRUNO KERL, Professor 
 in the Royal School of Mines ; Member of the Royal Technical 
 Commission for the Industries, and of the Imperial Patent-Office, 
 Berlin. Translated from the German by WILLIAM T. BRANNT, 
 Graduate of the Royal Agricultural College of Eldena, Prussia. 
 Edited by WILLIAM H. WAHL, Ph. D., Secretary of the Franklin 
 Institute, Philadelphia. Illustrated by sixty-five engravings. 8vo. 
 
 $3-00 
 
 KINGZETT. The History, Products, and Processes of the 
 
 Alkali Trade : 
 
 Including the most Recent Improvements. By -CHARLES THOMAS 
 KINGZETT, Consulting Chemist. With 23 illustrations. 8vo. $2.50 
 
 KINSLEY. Self-Instructor on Lumber Surveying: 
 
 For the Use of Lumber Manufacturers, Surveyors, and Teachers. 
 By CHARLES KINSLEY, Practical Surveyor and Teacher of Surveying. 
 I2mo. .......... $2.00 
 
 KIRK. The Founding of Metals : 
 
 A Practical Treatise on the Melting of Iron, with a Description of the 
 Founding of Alloys; also, of all the Metals and Mineral Substances 
 used in the Art of Founding. Collected from original sources. By 
 EDWARD KIRK, Practical Foundryman and Chemist. Illustrated. 
 Third edition. 8vo. ....... $2.50 
 
 KITTREDGE. The Compendium of Architectural Sheet- 
 Metal Work : 
 
 Profusely Illustrated. Embracing Rules and Directions for Estimates, 
 Items of Cost, Nomenclature, Tables of Brackets, Modillions, Den- 
 tals, Trusses, Stop-Blocks, Frieze Pieces, etc. Architect's Specifica- 
 tion, Tables of Tin-Roofing, Galvanized Iron, etc., etc. To which is 
 added the Exemplar of Architectural Sheet-Metal Work, containing 
 details of the Centennial Buildings, and other important Sheet- Metal 
 Work, Designs and Prices of Architectural Ornaments, as manufac- 
 tured for the Trade by the Kittredge Cornice and Ornament Com- 
 pany, and a Catalogue of Cornices, Window-Caps, Mouldings, etc., as 
 manufactured by the Kittredge Cornice and Ornament Company. 
 The whole supplemented by a full Index and Table of Contents. By 
 A. O. KITTREDGE. 8vo., 565 pages . ... 
 
 LANDRIN. A Treatise on Steel : 
 
 Comprising its Theory, Metallurgy, Properties, Practical Working, 
 and Use. By M. H. C. LANDRIN, JR., Civil Engineer. Translated 
 from the French, with Notes, by A. A. FESQUET, Chemist and En- 
 gineer. With an Appendix on the Bessemer and the Martin Pro- 
 cesses for Manufacturing Steel, from the Report of Abram S. Hewitt 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 17 
 
 feARKIN. The Practical Brass and Iron Founder's Guide: 
 A Concise Treatise on Brass Founding, Moulding, the Metals and 
 their Alloys, etc. ; to which are added Recent Improvements in the 
 Manufacture of Iron, Steel by the Bessemer Process, etc., etc. By 
 JAMES LARKIX, lale Conductor of the Brass Foundry Department ii; 
 Reany, Neafie & Co.'s Penn Works, Pniladeiphia. fifth edition, 
 revised, with extensive additions. 121110. . . . $2.25 
 
 LJSROUX. A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of 
 
 Worsteds and Carded Yarns : 
 
 Comprising Practical Mechanics, with Rules and Calculations applied 
 to Spinning; Sorting, Cleaning, and Scouring Wools; the English 
 and French Methods of Combing, Drawing, and Spinning Worsteds, 
 and Manufacturing Carded Yarns. Translated from the French of 
 CHARLES LKROUX, Mech-mical Engineer and Su[>erintendent of a 
 Spinning-Mill, by HORATIO PAIXE, M. D., and A. A. FESQUET, 
 Chemist and Engineer. Illustrated by twelve large Plates. To which 
 is added an Appendix, containing Extracts .from the Reports of the 
 International jury, and of the Artisans selected by the Committee 
 appointed by the Council of the Society of Aits, London, on Woole/i 
 and Worsted Machinery and Fabrics, as exhibited in the Paris Uni- 
 versal Exposition, 1867. 8vo. $5.00 
 
 LEFFEL. The Construction of Mill-Dams : 
 Comprising also the Birlding of Race and Reservoir Embankments 
 and Head-Gates, the Measurement of Streams, Gauging of Water 
 Supply, etc. By JAMES LEFFEL & Co. Illustrated by 58 engravings. 
 8vo. $250 
 
 LESLIE. Complete Cookery: 
 
 Directions for Cookery in its Various Branches. By Miss LESLIE. 
 Sixtieth thoasand. Thoroughly revised, with the addition of New 
 Receipts. In I2mo., cloth $1.50 
 
 JUIEBER. Assayer's Guide : 
 
 Or, Practical Directions to Assayers, Miners, and Smelters, for the 
 Tests and Assays, by Heat and by Wet Processes, for the Ores of all 
 the principal Metals, of Gold and Silver Coins and Alloys, and of 
 Coal, etc. By OSCAR M. LIET?ER. I2mo. . . . $1.25 
 
 Lockwood's Dictionary of Terms : 
 
 Used in the Practice of Mechanical Engineering, embracing those 
 Current in the Drawing Office, Pattern Shop. Foundry, Fitting, Turn- 
 ing, Smith's and Boiler Shops, etc., etc., comprising upwards of Six 
 Thousand Definitions. Edittd by a Foreman Pattern Maker, author 
 of " Pattern Making." 417 pp. 121110. . . . $3.00 
 
 LOVE. The Art of Dyeing, Cleaning, Scouring, and Finish- 
 ing, on the Most Approved English and French Methods : 
 Being Practical Instructions in Dyeing Silks, Woolens, and Cottons, 
 Feathers, Chips, Straw, etc. Scouring and Cleaning Bed and Win- 
 dow Curtains, Carpels, Rugs, etc. trench and English Cleaning, 
 any Color or Fabric of Siik, Satin, or Damask. By THOMAS LOVE, 
 a Working Dyer and Scuuier- Second American Edition* to which 
 
tS HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 are added General Instructions for the use of Aniline Colors. 8vo. 
 
 343 P a g es #5- 
 
 LUKIN. Amongst Machines; 
 
 Embracing Descriptions ot the various Mechanical Appliances used 
 in the Manufacture of Wood, Metal, and other Substances. 2mo. 
 
 #i-75 
 LUKIN. The Boy Engineers: 
 
 What They Did, and How They Did It. With 30 plates. i8mo. 
 
 #i-75 
 
 LUKIN. The Young Mechanic : 
 
 Practical Carpentry. Containing Directions for the Use of all kinds 
 of Tools, and for Construction of Steam- Engines and Mechanical 
 Models, including the Art of Turning in Wood and Metal. By JOHN 
 LUKIN, Author of "The Lathe and Its Uses," etc. Illustrated. 
 I2mo $1.75 
 
 MAIN and BROWN. Questions on Subjects Connected with 
 
 the Marine Steam-Engine: 
 
 And Examination Papers; with Hints for their Solution. By 
 THOMAS J. MAIN, Professor of Mathematics, Royal Naval College, 
 and THOMAS BROWN, Chief Engineer, R. N. 121110., cloth . $1.50 
 
 MAIN and BROWN. The Indicator and Dynamometer: 
 
 With their Practical Applications to the Steam-Engine. By THOMAS 
 J. MAIN, M. A. F. R., Ass't S. Professor Royal Naval College, 
 Portsmouth, and THOMAS BROWN, Assoc. Inst. C. E., Chief Engineer 
 R. N., attached to the R. N. College. Illustrated. 8vo. . $1.50 
 
 MAIN and BROWN. The Marine Steam-Engine. 
 
 By THOMAS J. MAIN, F. R. Ass't S. Mathematical Professor at the 
 Royal Naval College, Portsmouth, and THOMAS BROWN, Assoc. 
 Inst. C. E., Chief Engineer R. N. Attached to the Royal Naval 
 College. With numerous illustrations. 8vo. . . . $5- 
 
 MARTIN. Screw-Cutting Tables, for the Use of Mechanical 
 
 Engineers : 
 
 Showing the Proper Arrangement of Wheels for Cutting the Threads 
 of Screws of any Required Pitch ; with a Table for Making the Uni- 
 versal Gas-Pipe Thread and Taps. By W. A. MARTIN, Engineer. 
 8vo 50 
 
 MICHELLl. Mine Drainage: 
 
 Being a Complete and Practical Treatise on Direct- Acting Under- 
 ground Steam Pumping Machinery. With a Description of a large 
 number of the best known Engines, their General Utility and the 
 Special Sphere of their Action, the Mode of their Application, and 
 their Merits compared with other Pumping Machinery. By STEPHEN 
 MlCHELL. Illustrated by 137 engravings. 8vo., 277 pages , $6.00 
 
 MOLESWORTH. Pocket-Book of Useful Formulae and 
 
 Memoranda for Civil and Mechanical Engineers. 
 By GUILFORD L. MOLESWORTH, Member of the Institution of Civil 
 Engineers, Chief Resident Engineer of the Ceylon Railway. Full- 
 bound in Pocket-book form . . . $1.00 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 19 
 
 MOORE. The Universal Assistant and the Complete Me- 
 chanic : 
 
 Containing over one million Industrial Facts, Calculations, Receipts, 
 Processes, Trades Secrets, Rules, Business Forms, Legal Items, Etc., 
 in every occupation, from the Household to the Manufactory. Bj 
 R. MOORE. Illustrated by 500 Engravings. I2mo. . $2.50 
 
 MORRIS. Easy Rules for the Measurement of Earthworks : 
 By means of the Prismoidal Formula. Illustrated with Numeroui 
 Wood-Cuts, Problems, and Examples, and concluded by an Exten- 
 sive Table for finding the Solidity in cubic yards from Mean Areas. 
 The whole being adapted for convenient use by Engineers, Surveyors, 
 Contractors, and others needing Correct Measurements of Earthwork. 
 By ELWOOD MORRIS, C. E. 8vo. ..... $1.50 
 
 MORTON. The System of Calculating Diameter, Circumfer- 
 ence, Area, and Squaring the Circle : 
 
 Together with Interest and Miscellaneous Tables, and other informa- 
 tion. By JAMES MORTON. Second Edition, enlarged, with the 
 Metric System. I2mo $1.00 
 
 NAPIER. Manual of Electro-Metallurgy: 
 
 Including the Application of the Art to Manufacturing Processes. 
 By JAMES NAPIER. Fourth American, from the Fourth London 
 edition, revised and enlarged. Illustrated by engravings. 8vo. $1.50 
 
 NAPIER. A System of Chemistry Applied to Dyeing. 
 
 By JAMES NAPIER, F. C. S. A New and Thoroughly Revised Edi- 
 tion. Completely brought up to the present state of the Science, 
 including the Chemistry of Coal Tar Colors, by A. A. FESQUET, 
 Chemist and Engineer. With an Appendix on Dyeing and Calico 
 Printing, as shown at the Universal Exposition, Paris, 1867. Illus- 
 trated. 8vo. 422 pages . $5.00 
 
 NEVILLE. Hydraulic Tables, Coefficients, and Formulae, for 
 rinding the Discharge of Water from Orifices, Notches, 
 Weirs, Pipes, and Rivers : 
 
 Third Edition, with Additions, consisting of New Formulae for the 
 Discharge from Tidal and Flood Sluices and Siphons ; general infor- 
 mation on Rainfall, Catchment-Basins, Drainage, Sewerage, Water 
 Supply for Towns and Mill Power. By IOHN NEVILLE, C. E. M. R, 
 I. A. ; Fellow of the Royal Geological Society of Ireland. Thick 
 I2mo 15.50 
 
 NEWBERY. Gleanings from Ornamental Art of every 
 
 style : 
 
 Drawn from Examples in the British, South Kensington, Indian, 
 Crystal Palace, and other Museums, the Exhibitions of 1851 and 
 1862, and the best English and Foreign works. In a series of loo 
 exquisitely drawn Plates, containing many hundred examples. By 
 ROBERT NEWBERY. 410. $12.50 
 
 NICHOLLS. The Theoretical and Practical Boiler-Maker and 
 
 Engineer's Reference Book: 
 
 Containing a variety of Useful Information for Employers of Labor. 
 Foremen and Working Boiler-Makers, Iron, Copper, and Tinsmiths* 
 
90 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 Draughtsmen, Engineers, the General Steam-using Public, and for the 
 Use of Science Schools and Classes. By SAMUEL NICHOLLS. Illus- 
 trated by sixteen plates, I2mo. . . . . . $2.50 
 
 NICHOLSON. A Manual of the Art of Bookbinding : 
 
 Containing full instructions in the different Branches of Forwarding, 
 Gilding, and Finishing. Also, the Art of Marbling Book-edges and 
 Paper. By JAMES B. NICHOLSON. Illustrated. I2mo., cloth $2.25 
 
 NICOLLS. The Railway Builder: 
 
 A Hand-Book for Estimating the Probable Cost of American Rail- 
 way Construction and Equipment. By WILLIAM J. NICOLLS, Civil 
 Engineer. Illustrated, full bound, pocket-book form . $2.00 
 
 NORMANDY. The Commercial Handbook of Chemical An- 
 
 alysis : 
 
 Or Practical Instructions for the Determination of the Intrinsic OT 
 Commercial Value of Substances used in Manufactures, in Trades, 
 and in the Arts. By A. NORMANDY. New Edition, Enlarged, and 
 to a great extent rewritten. By HENRY M. NOAD, Ph.D., F.R.S., 
 thick I2mo. .......... $5.00 
 
 NORRIS. A Handbook for Locomotive Engineers and Ma- 
 chinists : 
 
 Comprising the Proportions and Calculations for Constructing Loco- 
 motives; Manner of Setting Valves; Tables of Squares, Cubes, Areas, 
 etc., etc. By SEPTIMUS NORRIS, M. E. New edition. Illustrated, 
 I2mo |i-5o 
 
 NYSTRGM. A New Treatise on Elements of Mechanics : 
 Establishing Strict Precision in the Meaning of Dynamical Terms: 
 accompanied with an Appendix on Duodenal Arithmetic and Me 
 trology. By JOHN W. NYSTROM, C. E. Illustrated. 8vo. $2.00 
 
 NYSTROM. On Technological Education and the Construc- 
 tion of Ships and Screw Propellers : 
 
 For Naval and Marine Engineers. By JOHN W. NYSTROM, late 
 Acting Chief Engineer, U. S. N. Second edition, revised, with addi- 
 tional matter. Illustrated by seven engravings. I2mo. . $1.50 
 
 O'NEILL. A Dictionary of Dyeing and Calico Printing: 
 - Containing a brief account of all the Substances and Processes in 
 use in the Art of Dyeing and Printing Textile Fabrics ; with Practical 
 Receipts and Scientific Information. By CHARLES O'NEILL, Analy- 
 tical Chemist. To which is added an Essay on Coal Tar Colors and 
 their application to Dyeing and Calico Printing. By A. A. FESQUET, 
 Chemist and Engineer. With an appendix on Dyeing and Calico 
 Printing, as shown at the Universal Exposition, Paris, 1867- 8vo., 
 491 pages $5.00 
 
 ORTON. Underground Treasures'. 
 
 How and Where to Find Them. A Key for the Ready Determin-ation 
 of all the Useful Minerals within the United States. By JAMES 
 ORTON, A.M., Late Professor of Natural History in Vassar College, 
 3. Y.; Cor. Mem. of the Academy of Natural Sciences, Philadelphia, 
 and of the Lyceum of Natural History, New York ; author of the 
 'Andes and the Amazon," etc. A New Edition, with Additions. 
 Illustrated $1.50 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 21 
 
 OSBORN. The Metallurgy of Iron and Steel: 
 
 Theoretical and Practical in all its Branches; with special 
 to American Materials and Processes. By II. S. O.HORN, LL. D., 
 Professor of Mining and Metallurgy in Lafayette College, Easton, 
 Pennsylvania. Illustrated by numerous large folding plates and 
 wood-engravings. 8vo. ...... #25.00 
 
 OSBORN. A Practical Manual of Minerals, Mines and Min- 
 ing : 
 
 Comprising the Physical Properties, Geologic Positions, Local Occur- 
 rence and Associations of the Useful Minerals ; their Methods of 
 Chemical Analysis and Assay : together with Various Systems of 
 Excavating and Timbering, Brick and Mnsonry Work, during Driv- 
 ing, Lining, Bracing and other Operations, etc. By Prof. H. S. 
 OSBORN, LL. D., Author of the " Metallurgy of Iron and Steel." 
 Illustrated by 171 engravings from original drawings. 8vo. #4-5 
 
 OVERMAN. The Manufacture of Steel : 
 
 Containing the Practice and Principles of Working and Making Steel. 
 A Handbook for Blacksmiths and Workers in Steel and Iron, Wagon 
 Makers, Die Sinkers, Cutlers, and Manufacturers of Files and Hard- 
 ware, of Steel and Iron, and for Men of Science and Art. By 
 FREDERICK OVERMAN, Mining Engineer, Author of the " Manu- 
 facture of Iron," etc. A new, enlarged, and revised Edition. By 
 A. A. FESQUET, Chemist and Engineer. I2mo. . . $1.50 
 
 OVERMAN. The Moulder's and Founder's Pocket Guide : 
 A Treatise on Moulding and Founding in Green-sand, Dry-sand, Loam, 
 and Cement; the Moulding of Machine Frames, Mill-gear, Hollow- 
 ware, Ornaments, Trinkets, Bells, and Statues; Description of Moulds 
 for Iron, Bronze, Brass, and other Metals ; Plaster of Paris, Sulphur, 
 Wax, etc. ; the Construction of Melting Furnaces, the Melting and 
 Founding of Metals ; the Composition of Alloys and their Nature, 
 etc., etc. By FREDERICK OVERMAN, M. E. A new Edition, to 
 which is added a Supplement on Statuary and Ornamental Moulding, 
 Ordnance, Malleable Iron Castings, etc. By A. A. FESQUET, Chem- 
 ist and Engineer. Illustrated by 44 engravings. I2mo. . $2.<M 
 
 PAINTER, GILDER, AND VARNISHER'S COMPANION; 
 Containing Rules and Regulations in everything relating to the AnS 
 of Painting, Gilding, Varnishing, Glass-Staining, Graining, Marbling, 
 Sign- Writing, Gilding on Gla.>s, and Coach Painting and Varnishing; 
 Tests for the Detection of Adulterations in Oils, Colors, etc. ; and a 
 Statement of the Diseases to which Painters are peculiarly liable, with 
 the Simplest and Best Remedies. Sixteenth Edition. Revised, with 
 an Appendix. Containing Colors and Coloring Theoretical and 
 Practical. Comprising descriptions of a great variety of Additional 
 Pigments, their Qualities and Uses, to which are added, Dryers, and 
 Modes and Operations of Painting, etc. Together with Chevreui's 
 Principles of Harmony and Contrast of Colors. I2mo. Cloth $1.50 
 
 PALLETT. The Miller's, Millwright's, and Engineer's Guide, 
 By HENRY PALLETT. Illustrated. I2mo. . . . $2.00 
 
22 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 PERCY. The Manufacture of Russian Sheet-Iron. 
 
 By JOHN PERCY, M. D., F. R. S., Lecturer on Metallurgy at the 
 Royal School of Mines, and to The Advance Class of Artillery 
 Officers at the Royal Artillery Institution, Woolwich; Author of 
 " Metallurgy." With Illustrations. 8vo., paper . . 50 cts t 
 
 PERKINS. Gas and Ventilation : 
 
 Practical Treatise on Gas and Ventilation. With Special Relation 
 to Illuminating, Heating, and Cooking by Gas. Including Scientific 
 Helps to Engineer-students and others. With Illustrated Diagrams. 
 By E. E. PERKINS. I2mo., cloth #1.25 
 
 PERKINS AND STOWE. A New Guide to the Sheet-iron 
 
 and Boiler Plate Roller : 
 
 Containing a Series of Tables showing the Weight of Slabs and Piles 
 to Produce Boiler Plates, and of the Weight of Piles and the Sizes of 
 Bars to produce Sheet-iron ; the Thickness of the Bar Gauge 
 in decimals; the Weight per foot, and the Thickness on the Bar or 
 Wire Gauge of the fractional parts of an inch; the Weight per 
 sheet, and the Thickness on the Wire Gauge of Sheet-iron of various 
 dimensions to weigh 1 12 Ibs. per bundle; and the conversion of 
 Short Weight into Long Weight, and Long Weight into Short. 
 Estimated and collected by G. H. PERKINS and J. G. STOWE. $2.53 
 
 POWELI CHANCE HARRIS. The Principles of Glass 
 
 Making. 
 
 By HARRY J. POWELL, B. A. Together with Treatises on Crown and 
 Sheet Glass; by HENRY CHANCE, M. A. And Plate Glass, by H. 
 G. HARRIS, Asso. M. Inst. C. E. Illustrated i8mo. . $!.$<* 
 
 PROCTOR. A Pocket-Book of Useful Tables and Formulae 
 
 for Marine Engineers : 
 
 By FRANK PROCTOR. Second Edition, Revised and Enlarged. 
 Full -bound pocket-book form $1.50 
 
 REGNAULT. Elements of Chemistry: 
 
 By M. V. REGNAULT. Translated from the French by T. FORREST 
 BETTON, M. D., and edited, with Notes, by JAMES C. BOOTH, Melter 
 and Refiner U. S. Mint, and WILLIAM L. FABER, Metallurgist and 
 Mining Engineer. Illustrated by nearly 700 wood-engravings. Com- 
 prising nearly 1,500 pages. In two volumes, 8vo., cloth . $7.50 
 
 RICHARDS. Aluminium : 
 
 Its History, Occurrence, Properties, Metallurgy and Applications, 
 including its Alloys. By JOSEPH W. RICHARDS, A. C., Chemist and 
 Practical Metallurgist, Member of the Deutsche Chemische Gesell- 
 schnft. Illustrated by 16 engravings. 12 mo. 346 pages $2.50 
 
 RIFFAULT, VERGNAUD, and TOUSSAINT. A Practical 
 
 Treatise on the Manufacture of Colors for Painting : 
 Comprising the Origin, Definition, and Classification of Colors; the 
 Treatment of the Raw Materials ; the best Formulae and the Newest 
 Processes for the Preparation of every description of Pigment, and 
 the Necessary Apparatus and Directions for its Use; Dryers; the 
 Testing, Application, and Qualities of Paints, etc., etc. By MM. 
 RIFFAULT, VERGNAUD, and TOUSSAINT. Revised and Edited by M. 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 23 
 
 F. MALEPEYRE. Translated from the French, by A. A. FESQUET; 
 Chemist and Engineer. Illustrated by Eighty engravings. In one 
 vol.. 8vo., 659 pages &/-5 
 
 ROPER. A Catechism of High-Pressure, or Non-Condensing 
 
 Steam- Engines : 
 
 Including the Modelling, Constructing, and Management of Steam- 
 Engines and Steam Boilers. With valuable illustrations. By STE- 
 PHEN ROPER. Engineer. Sixteenth edition, revised and enlarged. 
 l8mo., tucks, gilt edge $2.oc 
 
 ROPER. Engineer's Handy-Book: 
 
 Containing a full Explanation of the Steam-Engine Indicator, and its 
 Use and Advantages to Engineers and Steam Users. With Formulae 
 for Estimating the Power of all Classes of Steam-Engines; also. 
 Facts, Figures, Questions, and Tables for Engineers who wish to 
 qualify themselves for the United States Navy, the Revenue Service, 
 the Mercantile Marine, or to take charge of the Better Class of Sta- 
 tionary Steam-Engines. Sixth edition. i6mo., 690 pages, tucks, 
 gilt edge $3.50 
 
 ROPER. Hand-Book of Land and Marine Engines : 
 
 Including the Modelling, Construction, Running, and Management 
 of Lane 1 and Marine Engines and Boilers. With illustrations. By 
 STEPHEN ROPER, Engineer. Sixth edition. I2mo.,h'cks, gilt edge. 
 
 #3-5<> 
 ROPER. Hand-Book of the Locomotive : 
 
 Including the Construction of Engines and Boilers, and the Construc- 
 tion, Management, and Running of Locomotives. By STEPHEN 
 ROPER. Eleventh edition. i8mo., tucks, gilt edge . $2.50 
 
 ROPER. Hand-Book of Modern Steam Fire-Engines. 
 
 With illustrations. By STEPHEN ROPER, Engineer. Fourth edition, 
 I2mo., tucks, gilt edge ....... $3.50 
 
 ROPER. Questions and Answers for Engineers. 
 
 This little book contains all the Questions that Engineers will be 
 asked when undergoing an Examination for the purpose of procuring 
 Licenses, and they are so plain that any Engineer or Fireman of or 
 dinary intelligence may commit them to memory in a short time. By 
 STEPHEN ROPER, Engineer. Third edition . . . $3.00 
 
 ROPER. Use and Abuse of the Steam Boiler. 
 By STEPHEN ROPER, Engineer. Eighth edition, with illustrations. 
 i8mo., tucks, gilt edge $2.00 
 
 ROSE. The Complete Practical Machinist : 
 
 Embracing Lathe Work, Vise Work, Drills and Drilling, Taps and 
 Dies, Hardening and Tempering, the Making and Use of Tools, 
 Tool Grinding, Marking out Work, etc. By JOSHUA ROSE. Illus- 
 trated by 356 engravings. Thirteenth edition, thoroughly revised 
 and in great part rewritten. In one vol., I2mo., 439 pages $2.50 
 
 ROSE. Mechanical Drawing Self-Taught: 
 
 Comprising Instructions in the Selection and Preparation of Drawing 
 Instruments, Elementary Instruction in Practical Mechanical Draw- 
 
24 HENRY CAREY BATRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 ing, together with Examples in Simple Geometry and Elementary 
 Mechanism, including Screw Threads, Gear Wheels, Mechanical 
 Motions, Engines and Boilers. By JOSHUA ROSE, M. E. Illustrated 
 by 330 engravings. 8vo ,313 pages .... $4.00 
 
 ROSE. The Slide- Valve Practically Explained: 
 
 Embracing simple and complete Practical Demonstrations of the 
 operation of each element in a Slide-valve Movement, and illustrat- 
 ing the effects of Variations in their Proportions by examples care- 
 fully selected from the most recent and successful practice. By 
 JOSHUA ROSE, M. E. Illustrated by 35 engravings . $i.co 
 
 ROSS. The Blowpipe in Chemistry, Mineralogy and Geology: 
 Containing all Known Method* of Anhydrous Analysis, many \Yi>rk- 
 ing Examples, and Instructions for Making Apparatus. By LIKUT.- 
 COLONEL W. A. Ross, R. A., F. G. S. With 120 Illustrations. 
 
 121110 $2.OO 
 
 SHAW. Civil Architecture: 
 
 Being a Complete Theoretical and Practical System of Building, con- 
 tnining the Fundamental Principles of the Art. By EDWARD SHAW, 
 Architect. To which is added a Treatise on Gothic Architecture, etc. 
 By THOMAS W. SILLOWAY and GEORGE M. HARDING, Architects. 
 The whole illustrated by 102 quarto plates finely engraved on copper. 
 Eleventh edition. 4to. ....... $10.00 
 
 SHUNK. A Practical Treatise on Railway Curves and Loca- 
 tion, for Young Engineers. 
 By W. F. SHUNK, C. E. 121110. Full bound pocket-book form $2.00 
 
 SLATER. The Manual of Colors and Dye Wares. 
 By J. W. SLATER. i2mo $3-75 
 
 SLOAN. American Houses : 
 
 A variety of Original Designs for Rural Buildings. Illustrated by 
 26 colored engravings, with descriptive references. By SAMUEL 
 SLOAN, Architect. 8vo. $1.50 
 
 SLOAN. Homestead Architecture : 
 
 Containing Forty Designs for Villas, Cottages, and Farm-houses, with 
 Essnys on Style, Construction, Landscape Gardening, Furniture, etc., 
 etc. Illustrated by upwards of 200 engravings. By SAMUEL SLOAN, 
 Architect. 8vo $3-5o 
 
 SLOANE. Home Experiments in Science. 
 By T. O'CoNOR SLOANE, E. M., A.M., Ph.D. Illustrated by 91 
 engravings. I2mo. ....... $1.50 
 
 SMEATON. Builder's Pocket-Companion : 
 
 Containing the Elements of Building, Surveying, and Architecture; 
 with Practical Rules and Instructions connected with the subject. 
 By A. C. SMEATON, Civil Engineer, etc. I2mo. . . #1.50 
 
 SMITH. A Manual of Political Economy. 
 
 By E. PESHINE SMITH. A New Edition, to which is added a full 
 Index. I2mo $1.25 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 2J 
 
 SMITH. Parks and Pleasure-Grounds : 
 
 Or Practical Notes on Country Residences, Villas, Public Parks, and 
 Gardens. By CHARLES H. J. SMITH, Landscape Gardener and 
 Garden Architect, etc., etc. 121110. .... $2.00 
 
 SMITH. The Dyer's Instructor: 
 
 Comprising Practical Instructions in the Art of Dyeing Silk, Cotton, 
 Wool, and Worsted, and Woolen Goods; containing nearly 800 
 Receipts. To which is added a Treatise on the Art of Padding; and 
 the Printing of Silk Warps, Skeins, and Handkerchiefs, and the 
 various Mordants and Colors for the different styles of such work. 
 By DAVID SMITH, Pattern Dyer. I2ino. . . . $3.00 
 
 SMYTH. A Rudimentary Treatise on Coal and Coal-Mining. 
 By WARRINGTON W. SMYTH, M. A., F. R. G., President R. G. S. 
 of Cornwall. Fifth edition, revised and corrected. "With numer- 
 ous illustrations. 121110. . . . . . . $i75 
 
 SNIVELY. A Treatise on the Manufacture of Perfumes and 
 
 Kindred Toilet Articles. 
 
 By JOHN H. SNIVELY, Phr. D., Professor of Analytical Chemistry in 
 the Tennessee College of Pharmacy. 8vo. . . . $3.00 
 
 SNIVELY. Tables for Systematic Qualitative Chemical Anal- 
 ysis. 
 By JOHN H. SNIVELY, Phr. D. 8vo. . . . . jgi.oo 
 
 SNIVELY. The Elements of Systematic Qualitative Chemical 
 
 Analysis : 
 A Hand-book for Beginners. By JOHN H. SNIVELY, Phr. D. i6mo. 
 
 $2.00 
 
 STEWART. The American System : 
 
 Speeches on the Tariff Question, and on Internal Improvements, 
 principally delivered in the House of Representatives of the United 
 States. By ANDREW STEWART, late M. C. from Pennsylvania. 
 With a Portrait, and a Biographical Sketch. 8vo. . . $3.00 
 
 STOKES. The Cabinet Maker and Upholsterer's Companion: 
 Comprising the Art of Drawing, as applicable to Cabinet Work; 
 Veneering, Inlaying, and Buhl-Work; the Art of Dyeing and Stain- 
 ing Wood, Ivory, Bone, Tortoise-Shell, etc. Directions for Lacker- 
 ing, Japanning, and Varnishing; to make French Polish, Glues, 
 Cements, and Compositions; with numerous Receipts, useful to work- 
 men generally. By J. STOKES. Illustrated. A New Edition, with 
 an Appendix upon French Polishing, Staining, Imitating, Varnishing, 
 etc., etc. I2mo. ........ $1-25 
 
 STRENGTH AND OTHER PROPERTIES OF METALS; 
 Reports of Experiments on the Strength and other Properties of 
 Metals for Cannon. With a Description of the Machines for Testing 
 Metals, and of the Classification of Cannon in service. By Officers 
 of the Ordnance Department, U. S. Army. By authority of the Secre. 
 taryof War. Illustrated by 25 large steel plates. Quarto . $10.00 
 
 SULLIVAN. Protection to Native Industry. 
 
 By Sir EDWARD SULLIVAN, Baronet, author of " Ten Chapters on 
 Social Reforms." 8vo $1.50 
 
*6 HENRY CAREY BAIRL* & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 SYME. Outlines of an Industrial Science. 
 
 By DAVID SYME. i2mo. . ... $2.00 
 
 TABLES SHOWING THE WEIGHT OF ROUND, 
 
 SQUARE, AND FLAT BAR IRON, STEEL, ETC., 
 By Measurement. Cloth 63 
 
 TAYLOR. Statistics of Coal : 
 
 Including Mineral Bituminous Substances employed in Arts and 
 Manufactures; with their Geographical, Geological, and Commercial 
 Distribution and Amount of Production and Consumption on the 
 American Continent. With Incidental Statistics of the Iron Manu- 
 facture. By R. C. TAYLOR. Second edition, revised by S. S. HALDE- 
 MAN. Illustrated by five Maps and many wood engravings. 8vo., 
 cloth . . $10.00 
 
 TEMPLETON. The Practical Examinator on Steam and the 
 
 Steam -Engine: 
 
 With Instructive References relative thereto, arranged for the Use of 
 Engineers, Students, and others. By WILLIAM TEMPLETON, En- 
 gineer. I2mo. ........ $1.25 
 
 THAUSING. The Theory and Practice of the Preparation of 
 
 Malt and the Fabrication of Beer : 
 
 With especial reference to the Vienna Process of Brewing. Elab- 
 orated from personal experience by JULIUS E. THAUSING, Professor 
 at the School for Brewers, and at the Agricultural Institute, Modling, 
 near Vienna. Translated from the German by WILLIAM T. BRANNT, 
 Thoroughly and elaborately edited, with much American matter, and 
 according to the latest and most Scientific Practice, by A. SCHWARZ 
 and DR. A. H. BAUER. Illustrated by 140 Engravings. 8vo., 815 
 P^es $io.ob 
 
 THOMAS. The Modern Practice of Photography: 
 
 By R. W. THOMAS, F. C. S. 8vo. .... 75 
 
 THOMPSON. Political Economy. With Especial Reference 
 
 to the Industrial History of Nations : 
 
 By ROBERT E. THOMPSON, M. A., Professor of Social Science in the 
 University of Pennsylvania. 121110. . . . . $1.50 
 
 THOMSON. Freight Charges Calculator: 
 
 By ANDREW THOMSON, Freight Agent. 2^mo. . . $1.25 
 
 TURNER'S (THE) COMPANION: 
 
 Containing Instructions in Concentric, Elliptic, and Eccentric Turn, 
 ing; also various Plates of Chucks, Tools, and Instruments; and 
 Directions for using the Eccentric Cutter, Drill, Vertical Cutter, and 
 Circular Rest; with Patterns and Instructions for working them. 
 I2mo. $1.25 
 
 TURNING : Specimens of Fancy Turning Executed on the 
 
 Hand or Foot- Lathe : 
 
 With Geometric, Oval, and Eccentric Chucks, and Elliptical Cutting 
 "Frame. By an Amateur. Illustrated by 30 exquisite Photographs. 
 4to. $3.00 
 
 URBIN BRULL. A Practical Guide for Puddling Iron and 
 
 Steel. 
 By ED. URBIN, Engineer of Arts and Manufactures. A Prize Essay, 
 
HENRY CAREY BA1RD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 27 
 
 , - ; . _ , 
 
 read before the Association of Engineers, Graduate of the School of 
 Mines, of Liege, Belgium, at the Meeting of 1865-6. To which is 
 . added A COMPARISON OF THE RESISTING PROPERTIES OF IRON AND 
 STEEL. By A. BRULL. Translated from the French by A. A. FES- 
 QUET, Chemist and Engineer. 8vo. .... $1.00 
 
 VAILE. Galvanized- Iron Cornice-Worker's Manual: 
 
 Containing Instructions in Laying out the Different Mitres, and 
 Making Patterns for all kinds of Plain and Circular Work. Also, 
 Tables of Weights, Areas and Circumferences of Circles, and other 
 Matter calculated to Benefit the Trade. By CHARLES A. VAILE. 
 Illustrated by twenty-one plates. 4to $5.00 
 
 VILLE. On Artificial Manures : 
 
 Their Chemical Selection and Scientific Application to Agriculture. 
 A series of Lectures given at the Experimental Farm at Vincennes, 
 during 1867 and 1874-75. By M. GEORGES VILLE. Translated and 
 Edited by W T ILLIAM CROOKES, F. R. S. Illustrated by thirty-one 
 engravings. 8vo., 450 pages $6.00 
 
 VILLE. The School of Chemical Manures : 
 Or, Elementary Principles in the Use of Fertilizing Agents. From 
 the French of M. GEO. VILLE, by A. A. FESQUET, Chemist and En- 
 gineer. With Illustrations. I2mo. .... $1.25 
 
 VOGDES. The Architect's and Builder's Pocket-Companion 
 
 and Price-Book : 
 
 Consisting of a Short but Comprehensive Epitome of Decimals, Duo- 
 decimals, Geometry and Mensuration ; with Tables of United States 
 Measures, Sizes, Weights, Strengths, etc., of Iron, Wood, Stone, 
 Brick, Cement and Concretes, Quantities of Materials in given Sizes 
 and Dimensions of Wood, Brick and Stone; and full and complete 
 Bills of Prices for Carpenter's Work and Painting ; also, Rules for 
 Computing and Valuing Brick and Brick W r ork, Stone Work, Paint- 
 ing, Plastering, with a Vocabulary of Technical Terms, etc. By 
 FRANK W. VOGDES, Architect, Indianapolis, Ind. Enlarged, revised, 
 and corrected. In one volume, 368 pages, full-bound, pocket-book 
 
 form, gilt edges 2.00 
 
 Cloth . 1.50 
 
 WAHL. Galvanoplastic Manipulations : 
 
 A Practical Guide for the Gold and Silver Electroplater and tne Gal- 
 vanoplastic Operator. Comprising the Electro-Deposition of all 
 Metals by means of the Battery and the Dynamo-Electric Machine, 
 as well as the most approved Processes of Deposition by Simple Im- 
 mersion, with Descriptions of Apparatus, Chemical Products employed 
 in the Art, etc. Based largely on the " Manipulations Hydroplas- 
 tiques" of ALFRED ROSELEUR. By WILLIAM H. WAHL, Ph. D. 
 ( Heid), Secretary of the Franklin Institute. Illustrated by 189 en- 
 gravings. 8vo., 656 pages $7-5 
 
 WALTON. Coal-Mining Described and Illustrated: 
 1jy THOMAS H. WALTON, Mining Engineer. Illustrated by 24 large 
 and elaborate Plates, after Actual Workings and Apparatus. $5.00 
 
28 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 WARE. The Sugar Beet. 
 
 \ Including a History of the Beet Sugar Industry in Europe, Varieties 
 of the Sugar Beet, Examination, Soils, Tillage, Seeds and Sowing, 
 Yield and Cost of Cultivation, Harvesting, Transportation, Conserva- 
 tion, Feeding Qualities of the Beet and of the Pulp, etc. By LEWIS 
 S. WARE, C. E., M. E. Illustrated by ninety engravings. 8vo. 
 
 $4.00 
 
 WARN. The Sheet-Metal Worker's Instructor: 
 
 For Zinc, Sheet- Iron, Copper, and Tin- Plate Workers, etc. Contain- 
 ing a selection of Geometrical Problems ; also, Practical and Simple 
 Rules for Describing the various Patterns required in the different 
 branches of the above Trades. By REUBEN H. WARN, Practical 
 Tin- Plate Worker. To which is added an Appendix, containing 
 Instructions for Boiler-Making, Mensuration of Surfaces and Solids, 
 Rules for Calculating the Weights of different Figures of Iron and 
 Steel, Tables of the Weights of Iron, Steel, etc. Illustrated by thirty- 
 two Plates and thirty-seven Wood Engravings. 8vo. . $3.00 
 
 WARNER. New Theorems, Tables, and Diagrams, for the 
 Computation of Earth-work : 
 
 Designed for the use of Engineers in Preliminary and Final Estimates, 
 of Students in Engineering, and of Contractors and other non-profes- 
 sional Computers. In two parts, with an Appendix. Part I. A Prac- 
 tical Treatise; Part II. 'A Theoretical Treatise, and the Appendix. 
 Containing Notes to the Rules and Examples of Part I.; Explana- 
 tions of the Construction of Scales, Tables, and Diagrams, and a 
 Treatise upon Equivalent Square Bases and Equivalent Level Heights. 
 The whole illustrated by numerous original engravings, comprising 
 explanatory cuts for Definitions and Problems, Stereometric Scales 
 and Diagrams, and a series of Lithographic Drawings from Models . 
 Showing all the Combinations of Solid Forms which occur in Railroad 
 Excavations and Embankments. By JOHN WARNER, A. M., Mining 
 and Mechanical Engineer. Illustrated by 14 Plates. A new, revised 
 and improved edition. 8vo. ...... $4.00 
 
 WATSON. A Manual of the Hand-Lathe : 
 
 Comprising Concise Directions for Working Metals of all kinds, 
 Ivory, Bone and Precious Woods; Dyeing, Coloring, and French 
 Polishing; Inlaying by Veneers, and various methods practised to 
 produce Elaborate work with Dispatch, and at Small Expense. By 
 EGBERT P. WATSON, Author of " The Modern Practice of American 
 Machinists and Engineers." Illustrated by 78 engravings. $1.50 
 
 WATSON. The Modern Practice of American Machinists and 
 Engineers : 
 
 Including the Construction, Application, and Use of Drills, Lathe 
 Tools, Cutters for Boring Cylinders, and Hollow-work generally, with 
 the most Economical Speed for the same ; the Results verified by 
 Actual Practice at the Lathe, the Vise, and on the Floor. Together 
 
HENRY CA.REY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 29 
 
 with Workshop Management, Economy of Manufacture, the Steam 
 Engine, Boilers, Gears, Belting, etc., etc. By EGBERT P. WATSON, 
 Illustrated by eighty-six engravings. I2mo. . . . $2-50 
 
 UTATSON. The Theory and Practice of the Art of Weaving 
 
 by Hand and Power : 
 
 With Calculations and Tables for the Use of those connected with the 
 Trade. By JOHN WATSON, Manufacturer and Practical Machine- 
 Maker. Illustrated by large Drawings of the best Power Looms. 
 8vo. . ...... $7.50 
 
 WATT. The Art of Soap Making : 
 
 A Practical Hand-book of the Manufacture of Hard and Soft Soaps, 
 Toilet Soaps, etc., including many New Processes, and a Chapter on 
 the Recovery of Glycerine from Waste Leys. By ALEXANDER 
 WATT. 111. i2mo ....... . $3.00 
 
 WEATHERLY. Treatise on the Art of Boiling Sugar, Crys- 
 
 tallizing, Lozenge-making, Comfits, Gum Goods, 
 And other processes for Confectionery, etc., in which are explained, 
 in an easy and familiar manner, the various Methods of Manufactur. 
 ing every Description of Raw and Refined Sugar Goods, as sold by 
 Confectioners and others. I2mo ...... $i-5<> 
 
 WIGHTWICK. Hints to Young Architects : 
 
 Comprising Advice to those who, while yet at school, are destined 
 to the Profession ; to such as, having passed their pupilage, are about 
 to travel ; and to those who, having completed their education, are 
 about to practise. Together with a Model Specification involvii.g a 
 great variety of instructive and suggestive matter. By GEORGE 
 WIGHTWICK, Architect. A new edition, revised and considerably 
 enlarged ; comprising Treatises on the Principles of Construction 
 and Design. By G. HUSKISSON GUILLAUME, Architect. Numerous 
 Illustrations. One vol. I2mo ....... 2.00 
 
 WILL. Tables of Qualitative Chemical Analysis. 
 
 With an Introductory Chapter on the Course of Analysis. By Pro 
 fessor HEINRICH WILL, of Giessen, Germany. Third American, 
 from the eleventh German edition. Edited by CHARLES F. HIMES, 
 Ph. D., Professor of Natural Science, Dickinson College, Carlisle, Pa 
 8vo. . ....... $1-50 
 
 WILLIAMS. On Heal and Steam: 
 
 , Embracing New Views of Vaporization, Condensation, and Explo- 
 sion. By CHARLES WYE WILLIAMS, A. I. C. E. Illustrated 8vo. 
 
 WILSON. A Treatise on Steam Boilers : 
 
 Their Strength, Construction, and Economical Working. By ROBERT 
 WILSON. Illustrated I2mo ....... $2.50 
 
 WILSON. First Principles of Political Economy: 
 
 With Reference to Statesmanship and the Progress of Civilization. 
 By Professor W. D. WILSON, of the Cornell University. A new and 
 revised edition, I2mo ........ #1.50 
 
30 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 
 
 WOHLER. A Hand-Book of Mineral Analysis : 
 
 By F. WOHLER, Professor of Chemistry in the University of Gottin- 
 gen. Edited by HENRY B. NASON, Professor of Chemistry in the 
 Renssalaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, New York. Illustrated. 
 I2mo. $3-OO 
 
 WORSSAM. On Mechanical Saws: 
 
 From the Transactions of the Society of Engineers, 1869. By S. W. 
 WORSSAM, JR. Illustrated by eighteen large plates. 8vo. $2.50 
 
 RECENT ADDITIONS. 
 
 ANDERSON. The Prospector's Hand-Book: 
 
 A Guide for the Prospector and Traveler in Search of Metal Bearing 
 or other Valuable Minerals. By J. VV. ANDERSON. 52 Illustrations. 
 I2mo $1.50 
 
 BEAUMONT. Woollen and Worsted Cloth Manufacture: 
 Being a Practical Treatise for the use of all persons employed in the 
 manipulation of Textile Fabrics. By ROBERT BEAUMONT, M. S. A. 
 With over 200 illustrations, including Sketches of Machinery, 
 Designs, Cloths, etc. 391 pp. I2mo $2.50 
 
 BRANNT. The Metallic Alloys: 
 
 A Practical Guide for the Manufacture of all kinds of Alloys, Amal- 
 gams and Solders used by Metal Workers, especially by Bell Founders, 
 Bronze Workers, Tinsmiths, Gold and Silver Workers, Dentists, etc., 
 etc., as well as their Chemical and Physical Properties. Edited 
 chiefly from the German of A. Krupp and Andreas Wildberger, with 
 additions by WM. T. BRANNT. Illustrated. I2mo. $2.50 
 
 CROSS. The Cotton Yarn Spinner: 
 
 Showing how the Preparation should be arranged for Differen 
 Counts of Yarns by a System more uniform than has hitherto been 
 practiced; by having a Standard Schedule from which we make all 
 our Changes. By RICHARD CROSS. 122 pp. I2mo. . $1.25 
 
 GRANT. A Hand-Book on the Teeth of Gears : 
 
 Their Curves, Properties, and Practical Construction. By GEORGE 
 B. GRANT. Illustrated. Second Edition, enlarged. 8vo. $1.00 
 
 MAKINS. A Manual of Metallurgy: 
 
 By GEORGE HOGARTH MAKINS, M. R. C. S., S. C. S. Illustrated 
 by 100 engravings. Second edition rewritten and much enlarged. 
 8vo., 592 pages $3 .00 
 
HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 31 
 
 POSSELT. Technology of Textile Design : 
 
 Being a Practical Treatise on the Construction and Application of 
 Weaves for all Textile Fabrics, with minute reference to the latest 
 
 . Inventions for Weaving. Containing also an Appendix, showing the 
 Analysis and giving the Calculations necessary for the Manufacture 
 of the various Textile Fabrics. By E. A. POSSELT, Head Master 
 Textile Department, Pennsylvania Museum and School of Industrial 
 Art, Philadelphia, with 'over 1000 illustrations. 292 pages. 
 4to. . $5.00 
 
 POSSELT. The Jacquard Machine Analysed and Explained: 
 With an Appendix on the Preparation of Jacquard Cards, and 
 Practical Hints to Learners of Jacquard Designing. By E. A. 
 POSSELT. With 230 illustrations and numerous diagrams. 127 pp. 
 4to 5.00 
 
 ROPER. Instructions and Suggestions for Engineers and 
 
 Firemen : 
 By STEPHEN ROPER, Engineer $2.00 
 
 ROPER. The Steam Boiler: Its Care and Management: 
 
 By STEPHEN ROPER, Engineer. I2mo., tuck, gilt edges . $2.00 
 
 ROPER. The Young Engineer's Own Book : 
 
 Containing an Explanation of the Principle and Theories on which 
 the Steam Engine as a Prime Mover is Based. By STEPHEN ROPER, 
 Engineer. 160 illustrations, 363 pages. i8mo., tuck . $3.00 
 
 ROSE. Modern Steam-Engines : 
 
 An Elementary Treatise upon the Steam-Engine, written in Plain 
 language ; for Use in the Workshop as well as in the Drawing Office. 
 Giving Full Explanations of the Construction of Modern Steam- 
 Engines: Including Diagrams showing their Actual operation. To- 
 gether with Complete but Simple Explanations of the operations of 
 Various Kinds of Valves, Valve Motions, and Link Motions, etc., 
 thereby Enabling the Ordinary Engineer to Clearly Understand the 
 Principles Involved in their Construction and Use, and to Plot out 
 their Movements upon the Drawing Board. By JOSHUA ROSE, M. E. 
 Illustrated by 422 engravings. 410, 320 pages . . $6.00 
 
 ROSE. Steam Boilers : 
 
 A Practical Treatise on Boiler Construction and Examination, for the 
 Use of Practical Boiler Makers, Boiler Users, and Inspectors ; and 
 embracing :n plain figures all the calculations necessary in Designing 
 or Classifying Steam Boilers. By JOSHUA ROSE, M. E. Illustrated 
 by 73 engravings. 250 pages. 8vo $2.50 
 
 SULZ. A Treatise on Beverages : 
 
 Or the Complete Practical Bottler. Full instructions for Laboratory 
 Work, with Original Practical Recipes for all kinds of Carbonated 
 Drinks, Mineral Waters, Flavorings, Extracts, Syrups, etc. By 
 CHAS. HERMAN SULZ, Technical Chemist and Practical Bottler. 
 Illustrated by 428 Engravings. 818 pp. 8vo. . . #IQ.QO 
 
A. Orcat Repository of Practical and Scientific Information. 
 
 Fullest, Freshest and Most Valuable Hand-books 
 of the Age. Indispensable to Every Practical Man. 
 
 NOW READY. 
 PRICE, $2.00 
 
 FREE OF ^CSTAOE TO ANY ADDRESS IN THE WORLD. 
 
 THE TECHNO-CHEMICAL 
 RECEIPT BOOK: 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 Several Thousand Receipts, covering the Latest, Most 
 
 Important and Most Useful Discoveries in Chemical 
 
 Technology, and their Practical Application 
 
 in the Arts and the Industries. 
 
 Edited chiefly from the German of Drs. Winckler, Eisner, Heintxe, 
 Mierzinski, Jacobsen, Koller, and Heinzcrling, 
 
 WITH ADDITIONS BY 
 
 WILLIAM T. BRANNT, 
 
 Graduate of the Royal Agricultural College of Eldena, Prussia, 
 AND 
 
 WILLIAM H. WAHL, PH. D. (Held.), 
 
 Secretary of the Franklin Institute, Philadelphia; author of "Galvanoplastic Manipulations." 
 Illustrated by Seventy-eight Engravings. 
 
 In one volume, xxxii, 49- pages, 12 mo., closely printed, containing an immense a::iu . 
 
 and a great variety of matter. Elegantly bound in scarlet clotli, gilt. 
 
 Price j>2.oo, free of postage to any address in the world. 
 
 above or any of our books sent by mail, free of postage, at the publication 
 Price, to any address in the -world. 
 
 ages, 
 
 .. --o tke 
 
 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO., 
 
 Industrial Publishers, Booksellers and Importers, 
 
 810 Walnut Street, Philadelphia, Pa., U. S. A. 
 
THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE 
 STAMPED BELOW 
 
 RENEWED BOOKS ARE SUBJECT TO IMMEDIATE 
 RECALL 
 
 LIBRARY, UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, DAVIS 
 
 Book Slip-70m-9,'65(F7151s4)458 
 
N2 404533 
 
 Brannt, W.T. 
 
 The techno-chemical 
 receipt book. 
 PHYSICAL 
 SCIENCES 
 LIBRARY 
 
 TP151 
 
 II I III I Ml illll IIMI II III IIHI I III! HI II 
 
 3 1175020884360 
 
 UOU533 
 
 Call Number: 
 
 TP151 
 
 B8 
 
 Brannt, W.T. 
 The techno-chemical 
 receipt book. 
 
 LIBRARY 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 
 DAVf??