GIFT OF HORACE W. CARPENTER TNI: TEXTILE MANUFACTURES AND TJII-: COSTUMES OF THE PEOPLE OF INDIA. BY J. FORBES WATSON, M.A., M.D., F.R.A.S., &c. REPORTER ON THE PRODUCTS OF INDIA TO THE SECRETARY OF STATE FOR INDIA IN COUNCIL. PRINTED FOR TIIK INDIA OFFICE, BY GEORGE EDWARD EYRE AND WILLIAM SPOTTI S WOOD E, PRINTERS TO THE QUEEN'S MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY. LONDON: 1866. CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION:- PAGE Collection of specimens of Indian Textile Fabrics in 20 sets each of IS volumes, and each set containing 700 examples - 1 Distribution of this work in Great Britain and India 1 Specimens so prepared as to exhibit working samples 1 The 20 sets constitute 20 Industrial Museums 1 Have for their object the promotion of trade operations between Europe and India 1 Necessity for explanatory remarks to accompany specimens 2 Consumption of Textiles in India - 2 Present demand for British Textiles not great in India - 2 Non-production of fabrics suitable for India one cause of this 2 Information respecting the form of garment and style of ornamentation liked in India hitherto inaccessible - ... 2 Tliis deficiency supplied by present work - 3 And further supplied by reference to India Museum 3 Necessity for observing native tastes and native wants in producing textiles for the Indian market ... 3 Importance of a knowledge of the characteristics of Indian costume 3 Failure of attempts hitherto made to produce goods suitable for India 3, noli Conservatism of Indian taste and fashion - 3, unit' Large proportion of Indian garments loom-made and untouched by scissors or needle 4 The Loongee, Dhotee, Turban, and Sarce of this class briefly described 4 Classification of the 700 specimens basis of 4 What this classification prominently shows - - .4 Characteristics of form and ornament very marked and important - ~, Artistic beauty and high character of Indian ornamentation .; Commercial importance of the garments which leave the loom read;.' Cor V-TIU 5 The modes of wearing them illustrated by plates - ~> They have a certain resemblance to our shawls, plaids, and scarfs .', A smaller proportion of Indian garments made with the aid of scissors and needle <> Piece goods used for these ------ . g Extensive use of cotton in all forms of Indian clothing - (i Dacca muslins, their unequalled fineness of texture (j Size as a cause of mildew in goods exported to India (j Indian embroidery - - - - 6 Certain fabrics better and more cheaply made by hand than by machinery 6 Certain Indian fabrics will probably be always made by hand - 6 India has advantages in the production of hand-wrought fabrics r 7 Important feature of trade between Great Britain and India 7 She sells us more than she buys from us - 7 (3428.) A 2 IV CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION continued. PAGE She now sells us raw products, but she was once an exporter of Textiles 8 And may resume that position 8 Meantime labour may be profitably diverted to the development of the natural resources of the country - -8 Importance of the collection as illustrating the requirements of the natives of India 8 Objects of the mode of distribution of the 20 sets of Fabric Books 8 Advantages of the deposit of a certain number of sets in India - 8 Will facilitate trade operations 8 Contemplated extension of the scheme by the distribution of specimens of other manufactures and of raw products 9 Reference to memorandum regarding the distribution in Great Britain and India of the Collections of Specimens - 9, note. COSTUME OF THE PEOPLE OP INDIA:- Indian Textiles divided into two great classes scarf-like and piece goods - 11 The past and present costume of Hindus and of Mahomedans 11 Sewing not practised before the Mahomedan invasion 11 Assimilation of the costumes of the two great races influenced by political conditions 1 1 Convenience of the made-tip garment a recommendation to its adoption by Hindus 1 1 Antipathy of Hindu women to the petticoat, bodice, and made-up garments 12 Importance, commercially, of the scarf-like form of garment 12 Skill and taste of the native weaver in decoration and manufacture 12 Scarf-like articles of attire to be considered under two heads those worn by males, and those by females 12 Object of this work to indicate the mode of wear, the qualities most suitable, the patterns, &c. most likely to be acceptable to the people of India 12 LOOM-MADE ARTICLES OF MALE ATTIRE:- I. TURBANS: The Turban in universal use in India - 13 Its chief function, protection from heat of sun - 13 Materials of which it is made muslin, cotton, silk, and wool - 13 Cotton by far the most usual - 13 Silk used to some extent by the higher classes - - 13 Woollen turbans in the form of small shawls - 13 Size and shape of turban often peculiar to tribes or castes 13 Turbans of different forms or materials have different names 13 Varieties of form, &c., names, and description - - 13, note. Reference to illustrations - - 14 Colours and ornamentation of turbans 14 All colours used - 14 White the most common 14 Dark colours relieved by embroidery - 14 Silk turban pieces of various colours - 14 Cotton turbans often printed - 14 Ornamentation artistic, beautiful, and chaste - 14 This true not of turbans only but of all Indian ornamentation 14 It marks a pure and refined taste - * 14 Dimensions of turban pieces - 14 Mode of wearing the turban - 14 CONTENTS. LOOM-MADE GARMENTS: TUUHANS continued. \'\,,\ The free end decorated with gold or coloured thread 4 Division (if turbans into two groups, long and square - '> A. TURBAN PIECES ; Lose. 1. Cotton ; plain, liltm-linl mid inililcitclii'i! 15 Turbans shoulil not bo sized or stiffened - - 15 This also applicable to other fabrics for wear next the skin 1 ."> 2. Cotton ; plain, with coloured endx 15 Increased width often made to compensate for shortness - 15 3. Cotton ; plain, with gold thread in i nifs I "' Of various degrees of finenc < - - 16 Turbans of fine iiviterials are generally longer than when of coarse - 16 Good quality of gold thread necessary to stand washing, c. 16 Combination of gold with coloured thread as ornament - 16 Fine muslin turbans of Chundeyree and Hyderabad 16 (Tall,) 16 4. Cotton ; dyed or printed - 17 Printing by hand stamping 17 Good effect produced, but not an economical mode of ornamentation 17 Use of padding in making up turbans 17 5. Cotton; dyed, coloured, or printed; gold thread in ends 17 Jeypore specimens of admirable style and quality - 17 Peculiar softness of texture in certain specimens from Rajpootana 18 Madura in Madras long celebrated for its manufactures and the excellence of its dyes - - 18 (Tab/,') 18 6. Cotton ; dyed, coloured, or printed ; gold thread in ends, borders, Sfc. 18 Method of increasing the ornamentation of turbans of large dimensions - - 7. Cotton ; iti/inf. PAQB SILK. iiiil'aeturo in Imlia lor home consumption and for export - 97 Table A. showing tin* <)-100 Reference to Tallies with cxampl .'>oks ... 117 (1.) Silk and cotton fabric-- used for n ,,1 Choices - 97 (Table \) M)| (2.) Mushroos. Fabrics of Silk and Cotton, with Siiiin face and Cotton back. Used extensively for ilivsM's, cii~h . 97 Variety and beauty of the patterns of Miir-ln . \t~ y that they should stand washing - - 97, ,/. (Table 2.) . 102 (3.) Silk fabrics used for trowscrs, &c. - ... 97 I'm tern < noted as favourites with the Hindus and Mahoinedans - 97 (TableS.) 104 (4.) Printing on Silk ... 97 Mode of producing the peculiar spotted patterns used by the Parsees, and the ditlieulty of imitating them by machinery - 97 (Tablet.) 106 Gauze used for inosijuiio em -i gg I >i'scription of sample in silk - gg Cotton net generally used - gg Net- xported from Europe applied to this purpose - - 98 WILD SILKS. Examples of Fabrics of Moonga, Eria, und Tussur silk ( Table) - - 107 MOONGA. Its superiority for mixed fabrics, and for embroidery - - 106 Mixed fabrics of cotton and Moonga silk - ... 106 Moonga Silk manufactures of Dacca - 106 Mode of preparing the silk for use in the loom - - - 106 Variety, names, character, &c. of Cloths of Cotton and Moonga SUk made at Dacca, and places to which exported - - - 106 EBIA SILK. Durable, but defective in lustre ... 107 Tussuit SILK. Buchanan's description of its preparation and manufacture in Bhagulpore - - . - 107 Varieties of patterns in Tussur goods from Bhagulpore - - 108 LOOM EMBROIDERY, GOLD AND SILVER. Gold and silver thread employed in the loom to decorate piece-goods 109 (1.) Ornamentation confined to the introduction of borders ... 109 (2.) Gold and silver used in body of silk fabric to produce striped patterns 109 (3.) Gold-figured .Mushroos- . . . 109 (4.) Kincobs- - - - . - 109 Beauty and variety of the patterns produced in India Inadequately indicated by the examples given in the books - - - - 109 Reference to India Museum for further illustrations ... 109 Description by Capt. Meadows Taylor of the processes employed in the manufacture and flattening of Gold and Silver wire, &c. - - 109 (Table) - - . - 111 XVI CONTENTS. PIECE GOODS continued. PAGE GOLD AND SILVEE TISSUES. The Wire in its flattened state used to produce these - 113 Fabrics so made employed for sashes, mantles, for marriage garments, &c. - 113 Examples of Gold and Silver Cloth, &c. (Table) 113 GOLD AND SILVER LACE. Places of manufacture 113 Quality of the metal used, &c. &c. - - 113 HAND EMBROIDERY. Native skill and taste displayed in embroidery - 114 Probable future importance of embroidered fabrics as articles of Indian export 114 General application of embroidery to the ornamentation of fabrics - 114 Dacca and Delhi Embroideries - - 114 Introduction of the art into Bengal from the banks of the Euphrates 114 Description of the embroidery frame, &c. - 114 KINDS OF EMBROIDERY. (1.) With Cotton. (Chikan) '} (Table) 115 (2.) With Moonga Silk, &c. (Kashida) / (3) With Gold, Silver, Tinsel, and Beetle Wings. (Table) 116 (4.) With Silk on Cloth - 116 Mode of preparing the design for embroidery, &c. 116 Kinds of Silk and of Gold and Silver thread used for embroidering at Dacca ... . . . U7 LACE. Capability of India to produce, &c. 117 Reference to specimens from Tinnevelly - - 111, note. WOOL. Classification adopted - 118 CASHMERE SHAWLS. Reference to Plate showing mode of wearing them in India 118 Their importance to India as articles of export - 118 Table showing the quantities and value of the Cashmere shawls exported from 1850-1 to 1864-5 - - 119, 120 The term "Cashmere" applied to shawls manufactured in India - 121 Report of Lahore Central Committee for the Exhibition of 1862, on shawl manufacture in the Punjab, and on the wool employed 121 Now the most important manufacture in the Punjab 121 Immigration of Cashmere weavers into the Punjab - 121 Shawls of Punjab make still inferior to those of Cashmere - 121 CONTKNTS. xvii i.i i \ GOODS I'liiitiinii'd. I'AGE Superiority of the wool ami tin- dye-: used in Cashmere - - IL'1 I'niee-s of cleaiiini: llie wool - 121 Division of shawls into ir/iri // and it-m-hnt ,-hawls - 121 Cost in Cashmere of woven shawls - - 1'Jl Adulteration of the wool nsed in the Punjab - IL'1 Proposed trade-marks as L'unrai! -t deception - 121 Description of the kinds of wool used in the manufacture of shawls and other fabrics - - 122 Extract from Report on Cashmere Shawls by Committee for the Kxhi- bition of 1851 - 122 Description of the principal articles manufactured of >haw 1-wool : (1.) ]>iixliiill(ix, i.ir Long Shawls - - - 123 (2.) A'w.s'Wwx, or So nary Shawls - 123 (3.) Jtmii'trtirs, or Striped Shawls - 121 (4.) Ulu-iin, or plain shawl-wool cloth 124 Description by Moorcroft of the shawl manufacture in Cashmere, tin- chief articles made, their prices, &c., &c. 124 Moorcroft's description of the wool of the domestic and wild ;:<>a- Ladakh, and of the process of picking the shawl-wool from the fleece - 132 CASHMERE CLOTH AND WOOL FOR SHAWLS. Reference to the examples of Cashmere shawl cloths in the collection - 134 (Table) 134 Patterns show simply the material and the character of the fabric in its worked state - - 134 Peculiar pleasant softness of fabric liable to be affected by profuse decoration - 134 Question of the superiority of the wool of the shawl-goat to that of other animals considered - PUTTOO ; CAMELS' HAIR CLOTH, &c. Material of which Puttoo is made - I-*.") Chogas of this fabric Reference to Plate showing Chogas Their ornamentation by means of the needle Plate (Table} ... 135 SULUNG, OR KERSEYMERE-LIKE CLOTHS. Harsh texture as compared with Put ton - Occasionally used for Chogas Puttoo and Sulung cloths probably capable of being produced from the wool or hair of the same animal (Table) - - 136 (3428.) x Vlli CONTENTS. WOOLLEN GOODS continued. PAGE CAMEL HAIR . . - 136 Its extensive use in Russia - - . 135 Imports from the Levant for the Bradford and Leicester trade - 136 Remarks by Captain T. Button the wool of the Bactrian camel - 137 TAE HAIR, its use, &c. - - - - - 138 CUMBLEES OR BLANKETS, &C. (1.) Thick; of soft texture. (In Table) - - 139 (2.) Thick ; of harsh texture. (In Table) - - - - 139 (3.) Thin ; of harsh, close texture. (In Table) . 139 (4.) Wool and hair mixed. (In Table) - - 139 STRIPED WOOLLENS. Patterns in vogue in Sikkim, Nepal, and Thibet - - - 139 Mode of wearing ; similarity to Scotch kilt. (Plate) - - - 139 Reference to Plate showing other ways of wearing woollen garments - 139 (Table) 140 FELTS. Uses for clothing, &c. - - 140 Method of ornamenting with coloured wool - - - 140 Manufacture of felts : description by Major H. B. Lumsden - 140 (Table) - - - * - . . . . . - 141 CARPETS AND RUGS. Indian Carpet designs afford examples of taste of the highest order - - 142 Probable future commercial importance to India - 142 General use in eastern countries of mats, rugs, or carpets - - 142 Places of manufacture in India - - - - 142 Attempted introduction of European designs into carpets and rugs of Indian manufacture, and its result - - 142-143 Description of the five divisions into which, according to their manufacture, Native carpets and rugs have been divided - ... 143 Examples showing kind of carpet fabric suitable for the European market - 143 Silk carpets, their richness and beauty - - 144 Reference to Plates illustrating patterns of Indian carpets and rugs - 143, 144 (Tablc\ - ... ... 142 CONTENTS. XIX PAGE FABRICS FROM ( KNTRAL ASIA AND RUSSIA. Rrusons for including those in the Collection - 145 Possibility of production in India 145 Source whence specimens wen- nl it. 'lined, &c., c., c. - - 145 Table of samples from Hoklutra, Mcs/inf, Ifirrrf, Yc:d, Balk, Kaftan, and ru. ....... - 146-7-8 APPENDIX. Memorandum regarding the distribution in Britain and India of the collections of specimens ... - 149 LIST OF SAMPLES i.\ FABHIC BOOKS. Contents of Vols. I., II., HI., IV., V., VI., VII., VHL, IX., X., XI., XII., XIII., XIV., XV., XVI., XVH., and XVTH. - 153 to 170 TABLE SHOWING PLACES OF .VAXI-FACTURE OR MARTS FROM WHICH THE SPECIMENS WERE OBTAINED 171 TABLE SHOWING wnzjiE THE DIFFERENT SAMPLES IN THE FABRIC BOOKS ARE REFERRED TO IN THIS WORK - 172, 173 c 2 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. No. of Description. Plate. Figure. Turbans. Plain and Coloured. 1 Plain red Turban. From a photograph. "Pinto 2 Plain red Turban. From a photograph. 1 1, 1 M T 3 Plain red Turbuu (twisted folds). From a photograph by Shepherd and Robertson. JL. "Ffif'i n o* < 4 Group showing white Turbans. The standing figure shows the short Hindu Jacket with the i ii< i n _ > T^I (TP long sleeve, and the Dhotee. From a photograph by Shepherd and Robertson. page 14 5 Large white turban. (Hindu). From a photograph by Dr. Simpson. 6 Plain white turban. (Sikh). From a photograph by Dr. Simpson. - 7 Large yellow turban. (Jat). From a photograph by J. C. A. Dannenberg. Turbans. Ornamented, &c. 8 Large purple Turban. (Hindu). From a photograph. Plato 9 Turban (printed). Ends pendulous, and with gold thread introduced. (Mussulman). II. 10 Red Turban. Folds exposed to view ; gold-embroidered in loom. (Brahmin). From photograph. facin * houldrrs. (Nepal). From a photograph by Dr. Simpson. ."() Sheep's skin Coat. (Sind). From a photograph by Lieut. Tanner. Male Attire. Cashmere Shawls, Chogas, &c. 51 Cashmere Shawl and purple Cho ol' Ca>hmere Shawl and Choga of Kincob. .",:; i ::-hmere Shawl and gold-embroidered Choga. .U Embroidered Cashmere and Kincob Chogas. From a photograph by Shcplierd and Robertson. 55 Embroidered Choira of 1'nttoo. with Kummerbund or Sash. From a photograph by Lieut. Tanner. .'if! Embroidered Chogas of 1'uttoo. From a photograph by Lieut. Tanner. ."7 Choga with Kiimmerbund. From a photograph by Lieut. Tanner. Xon-:. The foreaoing illustrations have been mainly selected from the extensive scries of photographs of the " People of India," as reproduced in the Department. The grouping and arrangement of the different subjects is by the Author. Their photographic reproduction is by W. Griggs, and the colouring of the copies, designed more perfectly to illustrate the costumes of the people, has been done under the Author's directions by II. Wills ancIJ. r'olex . Ornamental Braiding on Choga of Cashmere Cloth. From a photograph by W. Griggs. Plate 1 X. | i'aeing s Cotton Carpet. page | 144. J From Wurrungul, Dcccan. Photo, and Chromo-lithograph by W. Griggs. Plate "I XL Carpets and Rugs. follows 1 Carpet, from Wurrungul, Dcccan. Photo-lithograph by W. Griggs. I'l.X. ]> 2 Carpet, from do. do. Photo-lithograph by W. Griggs. facing 3 Rug, from Multnn. Photo-lithograph by W. Gi page 144. J 4 I. 1 ug, from do. Photo-lithograph by W. Grigg-. Processes in the Manufacture of Dacca Muslins. r 1 Spinning fine Yarn. Plate 2 Warping. A. 3 Reeling Yarn from Reed. (XII.),' 4 Applying the Reed to the Warp. facing J ~> Weaving. page 6 Forming the Ileddles. 64 7 Steaming Cloths during the Process of Bleaching. L 8 Arranging displaced Threads in Cloth. r THE TEXTILE MANUFACTURES AND COSTUMES OF THE PEOPLE OE INDIA. INTRODUCTION. SPECIMENS of all the important Textile Manufactures of India existing in the stores of the India Museum have been collected in eighteen large volumes, of which twenty sets have been prepared, each set being, as nearly as possible, an exact counter- part of all the others. The eighteen volumes, forming one set, contain 700 specimens, illustrating, in a complete and convenient manner, this branch of Indian Manufactures. The twenty sets are to be distributed in Great Britain and India tliirteen in the- former and seven in the latter so that there will be twenty places, each provided with a collection exactly like all the others, and so arranged as to admit of the interchange of references when desired. Each sample has been prepared in such a way as to indicate the character of the whole piece from which it was cut, and thus enable the manufacturer to reproduce the article if he wishes to do so. In other words, the eighteen volumes contain 700 working samples or specimens. The twenty sets of volumes may thus be regarded as Twenty Industrial Museums, illustrating the Textile Manufactures of India, and promoting trade operations between the East and West, in so far as these are concerned. 2 TEXTILE MANUFACTURES OP INDIA. To make this series of Museums, however, accomplish more fully and properly the end in view, it was felt that something was needed beyond the mere bringing together of specimens, and this something the present volume is intended to supply. The interests of the people in India, as well as those of the people at Home, are concerned in this matter, and loth interests must be considered. Our remarks in the first instance, however, will apply more particularly to the latter. About two hundred millions of souls form the population of what we commonly speak of as India ; and, scant though the garments of the vast majority may be, an order to clothe them all would try the resources of the greatest manufacturing nation on earth. It is clear, therefore, that India is in a position to become a magnificent customer. She may still be this, and yet continue to seek her supplies in part from herself; for to clothe but a mere per-centage of such a vast population would double the looms of Lancashire. 1 This is what might and may be ; but that which is, is greatly otherwise, for, in point of fact, India buys but sparingly of our manufactures. Many things probably combine to bring about this result, and it is not our purpose here to inquire into them all. But there are some which are important and apparent, and to these allusion should be made. If we attempt to induce an individual or a nation to become a customer, we endeavour to make the articles which we know to be liked and needed, and these we offer for sale. We do not make an effort to impose on others our own tastes and needs, but we produce what will please the customer and what he wants. The British manufacturer follows this rule generally ; but he seems to have failed to do so in the case of India, or to have done it with so little success, that it would almost appear as if he were incapable of appreciating Oriental tastes and habits. There are probably few things beyond the understanding of our manu- facturers, but it will be admitted that some education in the matter is necessary, and that without it the value of certain characteristics of Indian ornament and form will not be properly realized. This supposes the means of such education to be readily accessible, which hitherto has not been the case, simply because manufacturers have not known with any certainty what goods were 1 NTUODUCTION. 3 suitable.* To attain to skill in nuvtinii Kastern tastes and Kastern wants will require study and much consideration even when the means of study are supplied ; but up to the present time the manufacturer has had no ready opportunity of acquiring a full and correct knowledge of what was wanted. The deficiency here alluded to will, we believe, be supplied by these local Museums, and the object of the present work is to give further aid to those who consult them. If the manufacturer should still encounter difficulties, when exceptional points are in question, these can be got over by reference to the parent and more elaborate collection in the India Museum ; and there also full informa- tion on doubtful matters can be obtained. In fact, it is but reasonable to expect that this will occasionally be necessary. The 700 specimens (and we again point out that they are all what is called working samples) show what the people of India affect and deem suitable in the way of textile fabrics, and if the supply of these is to come from Britain, they must be imitated there. What is wanted, and what is to be copied to meet that want, is thus accessible for study in these Museums. * It was thought, however, that something more than mere specimens was needed to enable the manufacturer to do this intelligibly. It was necessary that he should know* how the garment was worn, by which sex, and for what purpose how, in short, the people were clothed, as well as the qualities of the fabrics they used. It was further necessary that he should know why certain arrange- ments of ornamentation were adopted, as well as the styles of ornamentation and the materials employed.f Information on these points, and on many other similar ones, the present volume is also intended to supply. * Wo are quite aware of the efforts which of late years have been made, more particularly by Glasgow and Manchester, to manufacture Sarecs and some similar loom-made articles of clothing ; the result, however, has been insignificant when we remember the extent of the consumption of such articles. t The steadiness of Indian taste and fashion is a point to which the manufacturers' attention should be directed. Among the people of India there is not that constant desire for change in the material and style of their costume which is so noticeable in Europe. Some patterns which are now favourites, have been so for centuries, and certain articles of dress were ages ago very much what they now are. It is not, however, to be understood from this that new styles of ornamentation have not been occasionally introduced by the native manufacturer in recent times. What this note is intended to convey is simply that there is a much greater fixity of fashion in India than in Europe, and it is not necessary to point out that this has a very direct bearing on the operations of trade. (3428.) D TEXTILE MANUFACTURES OF INDIA. It is shown that a very large proportion of the clothing of the people of India, whether Hindu or Mahomedan, consists of articles which are untouched by needle or scissors. . These articles leave the loom in a state ready to be worn, and have their analogues in our Shawls, Plaids, and Scarfs. The principal of these are the Turbans, Loongees, and Dhotees worn by men, and the Sarees worn by women. The Dhotee is nothing but a scarf folded round the loins and brought up between the legs, and this constitutes the whole clothing of a large number of the lower and poorer classes. The Loongee, again, is a similar but larger scarf or plaid, worn over the shoulders and upper part of the body. The Turban is a longer and narrower scarf, which is folded round the head to form a head-dress. The Saree, or woman's plaid, is used to cover both the body and the head. Loongees, Dhotees, Sarees, and Turbans have each different functions, and the quality of the fabric must fulfil these ; they have appropriate lengths and breadths, and these must be considered ; they have suitable modes or styles of ornamen- tation, and these too must be kept in view. In order to enable. the manufacturer to do this easily and successfully, the 700 specimens have in the present work been arranged in groups thus Turbans have been considered separately, and then Loongees, and so on. These large groups have been again subdivided, and the basis of this subdivision has been the quality of the body of the garment, the material of which it is made, the mode of ornamentation, &c. Thus Loongees made of cotton are not associated with those made of silk ; nor are those in which gold thread is used for their decoration conjoined with those in which coloured cotton or silk is so employed. This work, therefore, may be regarded as an analysis of the contents of the eighteen volumes, and a classification of them according to function, quality, material, and decoration. Many important facts stand saliently out as the result of this analysis ; such, for instance, as that by far the larger proportion of the clothing of the people of India is made of cotton ; that there are certain colours or tones of colour which are favourites ; that gold is largely used in the ornamentation of all sorts of fabrics cotton as well as silk ; and that in the decoration of every garment regard is always had to the special purpose which that garment is intended to fulfil. INTRODUCTION. 5 Indeed, the modes of ornamentation ;uv so peculiar and so characteristic, that it Avill often be found that nothing beyond a diH'erence in this respect separates one group from another. Too much attention cannot be given to this point. A piece of cloth may be offered for sale Avhose length and breadth and quality may fit it admirably for a Turban or a Loongee, yet it may prove utterly unsaleable because its decoration is unsuitable and injures its usefulness; or because it is not in good taste from the Indian's point of view ; or, farther, because its colours are not fast and will not admit of the constant and rough washing to which his clothing is subjected. It must not be thought that the Taste of India takes delight in what is gaudy and glaring. No one will study the contents of these volumes and come to that con- clusion. On the contrary, there will be found there good evidence that Indian taste in decoration is, in the highest degree, refined. Such combinations of form and colour as many of these specimens exhibit everyone will call beautiful ; and this beauty has one constant feature a quietness and harmony which never fail to fascinate. This also can be said of it there is no waste of ornamentation, which is present where it should be, and absent where it should not be. The portions which are concealed when the garment is on the wearer are rarely decorated ; nor is there any of that lavish expenditure of ornament which so often purchases show at the expense of comfort. It is in obedience to this principle that the decoration of these loom-made garments is nearly always confined to one or both ends, or to one or both borders, according to circumstances. We trust that the importance of this class of Indian garments has been made as clear as it should be. We refer to those garments which leave the loom ready for wear the Turbans, Loongees, Dhotees, and Sarees, which bear a certain resemblance to our Shawls, Plaids, and Scarfs, though they by no means serve the same purposes. The photographs interspersed throughout the work illustrate fully the various modes of wearing them. It cannot be too often repeated that they constitute a large portion of the whole clothing of the people ; D 2 6 TEXTILE MANUFACTURES OF INDIA. and it is clear that the nation which desires to supply that clothing can only be successful in doing so by offering garments of this character for sale. But while they constitute a large portion they by no means constitute the whole. In all times past and present Mahomedans have worn vestments made out of Piece-goods by the aid of scissors and needles, and Hindus have been long and increasingly following them in this respect. Jackets, Coats, and Trousers are worn by men ; and Bodices, Trousers, and Skirts or Petticoats, by women. These are not made as they are with us in Europe, but, nevertheless, they may appropriately enough go by these names. Many of the photographs are inserted to show the various styles of these vestments, and the volumes contain numerous specimens of the piece-goods out of which they are made. Like the loom-made garments, these also consist chiefly of cotton, and among them appear the beautiful muslins of Dacca. These are so exquisitely fine that we have dwelt at considerable length on the mode of their manufacture, and on the question of comparative fineness as raised between them and the most delicate muslins hitherto produced in Europe. A careful consideration of all the evidence which has yet been brought to bear on this question leads clearly to the conclusion, that the weavers of Dacca can and do produce a fabric which, for fineness, as well as for all other good qualities, has nowhere been equalled. While on this subject we have taken occasion to speak of the character and extent of Sizing used by the native weaver. This is a point of great practical importance, as it has been thought, and probably correctly so, that the Size used by the British manufacturer is often the cause of that mildewing which is so destructive to the cotton goods sent from this country to India. Among the piece-goods also occur a number of specimens of the loom-made Brocades and of the Hand-Embroideries of India. There may be little hope of Europe ever being able to make these cheaper than India herself can ; but, as a mere lesson in taste, the study of them may prove useful to the Home manufacturer.* * Those who may wish to acquire an extended knowledge of the variety and beauty of these exquisite pro- ductions will have to consult the Collection at the India Museum as now attached to the Department of the Eeporter on the Products of India. INTRODUCTION. 7 This leads us to remark that there are certain fabrics which will probably always be best, and most cheaply manufactured by hand. It is found to be so even in this country, where the powers of machinery have been pushed to their utmost. The hand-loom weaver still exists amongst us, nor is it likely that lie will ev r cease to do so. Less likely still is it that machinery will ever be able to drive him from the field in India. The very fine and the richly decorated fabrics of that country will probably always require the delicate manipulation of human fingers for their production. In such manufactures the foremost place will be taken by that country which can most cheaply supply labour, intelligence, and refined taste all three combined. This being the case, it is not probable that England will ever be able to compete successfully with the native manufacturer in the production of fabrics of this sort. The reverse, indeed, is in every sense probable, and the native looms will continue to yield the Embroideries, the Shawls, and the Carpets, for which they are already so famous. They will continue to do this for the customer in India, and it is quite possible, when the beauty of some of their productions is better known and appreciated, that they will find profitable customers in the far West as well. Such a hope is not without something to rest on, and it may be the sooner' realized now that these collections have been made. In the meantime the British manufacturer must not look for his customers to the upper ten millions of India, but to the hundreds of millions in the lower grades. The plainer and cheaper stuff's of cotton, or of cotton and wool together, are those which he has the best chance of selling, and those which he would be able to sell largely, if in their manufacture he would keep well in view the requirements and tastes of the people' to whom he offers them. This naturally brings us to the more special consideration of the manner in which the interests of India are concerned in the matter. We know India now-a-days as a country whose Raw Products we largely receive. We pay for these partly in kind and partly in money ; but India never buys from us what will repay our purchases from her, and the consequence is that we have always to send out the large difference in bullion, which never comes back to us, disappearing there as if it had been dropped into the ocean. TEXTILE MANUFACTURES OF INDIA. We buy her Cotton, Indigo, Coffee, and Spices ; and we sell her what we can in the shape of Textile and other Manufactures. It must not be forgotten, however, that there was a time when India supplied us largely with Textiles. It was she who sent us the famous Longcloths, and the very term Calico is derived from Calicut where they were made. She may never resume her position as an exporting manufacturer of goods of this sort, though what the extension of the mill-system in India may eventually lead to it is difficult to say, and her friends would most unwillingly see its development fettered by restrictions of any sort. This is clear, however, that it will be a benefit to the masses of the people of India to be supplied with their clothing at the cheapest possible rate let this be done by whom it may. If Great Britain can give Loongees, Dhotees, Sarees, and Calicoes to India which cost less than those made by her own weavers, both countries will be benefited. In a great productive country like India it is certain that she will gain ; for if supplies from Britain set labour free there, it will only be to divert it at once into other and perhaps more profitable channels. It might be otherwise if India were not a country whose strength in raw products is great and far from developed ; but as it is, her resources in this direction are known to be capable of a vast expansion and to be sufficient to occupy the energies of her whole people. The machinery and skill of Britain may thus do a present service to India, by supplying her with material for clothing her people at a cheap rate an end to which these collections must certainly lead by showing the home manufacturer what hV is that the natives require. But they may also show that certain fabrics can be produced at a lower cost than in Europe, and make India both buy and sell her textiles. Those which she would offer for sale would in all probability be her Carpets and Embroideries, which, as already stated, can be made by hand with a greater perfection and beauty than by any machinery hitherto invented. There are other reasons which make it desirable that a few of these twenty sets should be placed in India. For instance, as each set is a copy of all the others, they may prove useful vn. facilitating trade operations. They will enable the agent in India to refer the merchant or the manufacturer at home to a certain specimen, and ask him to produce an article as like it as possible, or with such alterations as he may see fit to suggest. And so, in like manner, they may enable the merchant of one part of India to deal with the merchant of another, when, INTKODl CTIOX. '> through an examination of these volumes, lie learns that an article is made there which will suit his customers. This aspect of their usefulness gives these collections a title to be called Trad- M HM-U-IHX in a fuller and broader sense than belongs to any which have yet been established. It is not desirable, however, that the xctn'inr should stop with the textile manu- factures. It is hoped, indeed, that it may yet be greatly extended and in various directions, to the advantage alike of Britain and of India, whose common interest it certainly is in every way to cultivate intimate commercial relations. A lar^e amount of information has been drawn together regarding all classes of Indian manufactures and -of Indian products, and it is clearly of immense advantage to this country and to India that this knowledge should be so disseminated as to prove pi-dftico.Uy useful in other words, so as to influence directly the interchange of commodities. No way, we think, could so effectually accomplish this as the one which, with the sanction and support of the Secretary of State for India in Council, has been chosen in the case of the Textile Manufactures ; and it is satisfactory to know that the resources of the Department would enable future efforts in the same direction, having regard to other manufactures or products, to be made with less labour and with increased economy. NOTE. A Memorandum, submitted to the India Office, regarding the distribution in Britain and India of the Collections of Specimens, to which this work forms the key, the enumeration of the places in this- country where they have been deposited, and the statement of the conditions attached to the gift by the Secretary of State for India in Council, will be found in an Appendix at p. 149- COSTUME OF THE PEOPLE OF INDIA. IT will be convenient to consider the Textile Manufactures of India as divided into two classes : the first comprehending the various scarf or plaid-like articles of dress which leave the loom ready for wear, and the second consisting of piece goods for the conversion of which into clothing the scissors and needle are required. It would appear that before the invasion of India by the Mahomedans, the art of sewing was not practised there.* Anterior to that period, therefore, it is probable that nearly the whole clothing of the people consisted of loom-made articles coming strictly under the first head. Strict Hindus may yet be found to whom a garment composed of several pieces sewn together is an abomination and defilement. Throughout India generally, however, they have now begun to wear various made-up articles of dress such as were formerly used only by the Mahomedans. On the other hand, the Mahomedans of our day frequently content themselves with the simpler covering which is more peculiarly the dress of the Hindu. This partial assimilation of the costumes of the two great races of India has been brought about in various ways. For instance, under the old Mahomedan rule, Hindu men of rank in the employment of the Government were obliged to present themselves on state occasions dressed in the same fashion as their conquerors. The element of compulsion in this was at first distasteful. The innovation was accordingly resisted, and on their return to their homes they discarded the costume they had been forced to assume, and reverted to that to which they had been accustomed, and which they regarded as belonging to their race. Indeed, the wearing of the Mahomedan costume would at first be looked on as an emblem of defeat and vassalage, and a despotic interference with customs almost sacred from their age. It must be/ remembered, however, that this change of costume was only imposed upon those who were in office under the new rule on those, in short, who were placed in some sort of authoritv ; and hence, in course of time, the change of costume came to be regarded as an evidence of power in those who adopted it, and to be valued accordingly. It is not difficult to see how this would bring the matter eventually within the influence of fashion, which has its rule in India as elsewhere. The new costume, in fact, became an evidence that its wearer occupied a position of more or less importance, and this reconciled him to a change which pride of custom and religious feeling would have led him to resist. * Buchanan, in Montgomery Martin's " Eastern India," Vol. II., p. 699. (3428.) 12 COSTUME OP PEOPLE OP INDIA : Of course this reconciliation was the more readily accomplished, because the made-up articles of dress were after trial found to be convenient and suitable to the climate. Nor was there anything in the style of the new costume to make a Hindu desire to discontinue its use after he had once got accustomed to it, whilst there was much to recommend it. As regards the Hindu women, however, for a long period they scrupulously adhered on all occasions to their native costume. Indeed, even yet the petticoat is not regarded as a legitimate garment ; and in some parts of the country in which it is used, women of rank, when they eat, cook, or pray, lay it aside and retain only their under wrapper which has been made without the use of scissors or needle.* In a few districts also, even to the present day, the bosom is left uncovered by respectable women : the use of the Choice, or bodice, being reserved for the impure. There was thus a tendency, in the first instance, to resist the adoption of those new forms of costume which necessitated the use of the needle, and this tendency cannot yet be regarded as altogether extinct. But though the great bulk of the articles of clothing worn by the native population of India still consists of scarfs, or of simple pieces of cloth of dimensions suited to the purposes which they are intended to fulfil, a considerable quantity of textile materials is now made up into various convenient forms of dress, such as coats and jackets for men, and skirts and bodices for women alike among Hindus and Mahomedans. The class of plaid or scarf-like articles of dress, as a speciality of Oriental costume, assumes a position as regards extent which in Europe we do not easily understand. It constitutes by far the larger proportion of the textiles used for clothing, and is, therefore, the most important and the one most worthy of attention, especially from a commercial point of mew. It is, moreover, the class which has given scope for the introduction of those forms of decoration, which so admirably display the powers of the native weaver in producing beautiful combinations of form and colour, and in arranging these in the way best calculated to set-off and adorn the garment when it is looked at on the person of the wearer. The articles of dress which come under the first group are naturally divided into those used by men and those used by women, and we shall accordingly proceed to describe these separately. The object will be to make the reader understand the manner in which they are worn, and to indicate the qualities which experience has shown to be suitable, and the patterns which have proved pleasing to the people : in short, to illustrate what may be called the fashions of India. * The use of the petticoat among Hindu women is confined to Northern India, Rajpootana, &c. South of the Nerbudda it is almost entirely unknown, the Saree in all its forms being the only garment worn in conjunction with the Cholee or bodice. LOOM-MADE GAEMENTS. 13 LOOM -MADE ARTICLES OF MALE ATTIRE. In describing the various articles of male attire in this group, we shall not start with those fulfilling the purpose for which clothing was probably first adopted, but rather begin with those which have to do with the protection and adornment of the head. After these we shall proceed with the description of those articles in the scarf form which are employed to envelope the shoulders and upper portions of the body ; next, those which are used as a covering to the loins and lower extremities ; and, lastly, those which are employed simply to encircle the waist. I. TURBANS. The Turban is in almost universal use throughout India. As its chief function is the protection of the head from the heat of the sun, it is usually of a fine muslin-like texture which, when folded, is at once light, bulky, and porous thus admirably fulfilling its main purpose. Of the materials employed in the manufacture of turbans, cotton occupies the first place. Besides being the cheapest and most abundant, it has the merit of being a good non-conductor and of permitting at the same time the free escape of perspiration. It is farther recom- mended by the fact that it admits of the ready introduction of other materials for the purposes of adornment. Silk, however, is used to some extent by the higher classes; several places (like Seringa- patam in olden times) being famous for the manufacture of silk turbans. Wool is not often used in the manufacture of turban pieces ; when it is used, they are generally in the form of small shawls, those of embroidered Cashmere cloth being good illustrations. The tribe or caste to which the wearer belongs frequently determines the size and shape of the turban, and there are numerous varieties which take special names from their forms or from the materials of which they are made.* * The following are some of the names by which the Turban, or Pugri, is known : Puttee-dar ptiyri. A compact, neat turban, in very general use t)oth by Hindus and Mahomedans. Joorc-dar pugri. Similar to the Puttee-dar, but has a knot on the crown. Worn also by Hindus and Muhomedans. Khirkce-dar pugri. Full-dress turban of Hindu and Mahomedan gentlemen attached to native courts, and with the Goshwara, or band of brocade, is portion of an honorary dress presented on certain state occasions to persons of rank by native princes. In the lower provinces this is, however, worn by Hindus only. Nustalik. A full dress turban of the finest plain muslin, used with the court dress of Mahomedan Durbars, as at Delhi in olden times, and at Hydrabad, &c., in the present day. This form is very small, and fits closely to the head. Cltakvccdar. A form of turban used by Mahomedans of Mysore and South of India. The court form of the ancient Becjapore monarchy, continued by Tippoo Sultaun. Stthi. Used by bankers, &c. A small form not unlike the Nustalik. Mundeel. Turban of muslin, with gold stripes, spots, and ends. Usually worn by military officers. Surbwnd. -> Siirbutlee. > Derived from Sur the head and Bandhua to bind Buttcc signifying twisted or coiled round. Buttcc. J Morassa. A short turban. Umanni. A loose turban. Duslar. A fine muslin turban. Shwnla. A shawl turban. E 2 14 LOOM- MADE GARMENTS : In the mode of folding and wearing the turban an opportunity is often taken for the display of style and taste. The Costume illustrations which accompany this work show the multitude of forms which the turban may be made to assume by a little ingenuity in the mode of folding or making up. Although the subject in Plate I. opposite and Plate II. facing p. 18 have been specially chosen to illustrate this, most of the male figures in Plates III. IV. VII. and VIII. also afford illustrations. Among these will be found turbans ranging from the neat compact head-dress which adorns the Mussulman in figure 2 of Plate I, to the wisp of calico which envelopes the head of the last figure of Plate VIII.- facing p. 118; while in figure 50, Plate VII. facing p. 140, the turban piece not only envelopes the head but leaves enough to pass across the chest and over the shoulder. With regard to the colours employed and the principles observed in the ornamentation of turbans, a few words may be said before proceeding more specifically to indicate their characteristics. Turbans are to be found in India presenting every colour and hue in the rainbow, but white naturally takes by far the most prominent position. Red comes next, then yellow, and after them green, blue, purple, and, occasionally, even black ; the darker colours being almost invariably relieved by embroidery. Among turbans made of silk, we find buffs, shots, and greys ; and in those made of cotton, printing is frequently employed to produce patterns suited to the tastes of particular consumers. As regards what may be called the special ornamentation of fabrics designed for making up into turbans its peculiarity one founded upon true art as well as economy is that the decoration is, as much as possible, confined to those portions of the material which in wear are exposed to view. The introduction of ornamentation, in undue proportion, would not only involve an unnecessary consumption of comparatively expensive materials, but would actually interfere with the function which the turban is intended to fulfil. The native artist thus affords evidence of skill in avoiding an infringement of what may- be called a first principle in art. Nor is this confined to native work as it is seen in what we are presently speaking of, for the same compliment may be broadly paid to the productions of the Indian artisan, who is always careful to avoid a useless or wasteful ornamentation, and who never allows himself to forget the purpose which the article he is adorning is designed to fulfil. But it is not in these respects alone that the excellency of the native artisan is to be seen. He continually displays an admirable skill in the arrangement of form and colour producing those beautiful and harmonious combinations which are to the eye what chords in music are to the ear. The subdued elegance which characterizes Indian decoration never fails to please. It marks a pure and refined taste, and whether it be the result of cultivation or of instinct it certainly exhibits a charming obedience to the great principles of art. The turban in its unfolded condition ordinarily consists of a strip of cloth varying i n breadth from 9 to 12 inches, and in length from 15 to 25 yards. In some cases, however, the breadth extends to 36 inches, while the length occasionally reaches to 60 yards. In the process of making up, the outer end is usually left free to hang down a little, or is turned up over the folds at the back when the tying is finished. In the simpler and more common forms, coloured thread is introduced into this free end as an ornament, TURBANS. 15 while in others gold in stripes, varying in breadth from one-eighth of an inch to several inches, is introduced. Sometimes the gold, or other decorative medium, in addition to running across the rnd is made to extend longitudinally a little way up from the end, so as to be seen on tin- side of one or two of the last folds of the turban. In some instances, again, the embellishment is carried so far up that all the outer folds of the turban present it to view. In PI. II. the standing figure in the group represents the first of these styles ; the sitting figure to the left in the same group the second ; while the turban on figure 10 shows the more copious ornamentation last alluded to. For the assistance of those who may wish more precise information regarding this class of manufacture, we shall now refer in detail to the in-khi!>' xntnjtlcx shown in the volumes to which allusion has been made. The turbans are divisible into two groups, consisting of long and square turban pieces. In describing these, a classification founded upon the quality of the material and the style of ornamentation will be adopted. A. TURBAN-PIECES ; LONG. 1. TURBAN PIECES. COTTON; PLAIN, BLEACHED AND UNBLEACHED. Nos. 1 and 7, Vol. 1, are examples of a plain material, the only difference between them and ordinary piece goods being that they are specially manufactured of the requisite length and width. It will be observed that, like the vast majority of the India fabrics, they are undressed ; the employment of size to the extent of stiffening the material being objectionable from its interfering with the lightness and openness of the article. This is a remark which applies with equal force both to scarf-like and to other fabrics designed for wear next the skin in hot climates. The use of size interferes with the pleasant feel of the fabric, and impedes free transpiration from the body. No. 1 (bleached) is 15 yards long, 12 inches wide, and weighs 6 ounces. No. 7 is 24 yards long, 12 inches wide, and weighs 84 ounces. The only other example coming under this head is No. 9, in the same volume, which affords a specimen of a thick unbleached material from Arracan. Its length is only 3 yds. 18 in., its width 9 inches, and its weight 11 ounces. Being a thicker and bulkier material, it does not require to be so long. 2. TURBAN PIECES. COTTON ; PLAIN, WITH COLOURED ENDS. Of these Nos. 3 and 4, from Lahore, are examples. In both of these the ornamental effect is produced by the introduction across their ends of a yellow stripe, about an inch wide, with double pink stripes on each side. No. 3 is 6^ yards long, 1 yard wide, and 15 ounces in weight. No. 4 is 8^ yards long, 1 yard wide, and of weight proportional to No. 3, both being about the same in quality. These two, it will be observed, are much shorter than Nos. 1 and 7 in the former group, but here increased breadth is made to supply the necessary bulk. 3. TURBAN PIECES. COTTON ; PLAIN, WITH GOLD THREAD IN ENDS. The subjoined table embraces the examples of the class of ornamentation in this important group. 16 LOOM-MADE GARMENTS : The pieces shown are of various degrees of fineness, and some (Nos. 13, 14, and 18, for instance) are excellent examples of muslins from both bleached and unbleached thread. As already indicated, the finer qualities (such as Nos. 7 and 9) require a greater length in the piece and a greater number of folds round the head, to give the necessary protection against the effect of the sun's rays. Besides being examples of the material used for turbans, these specimens exhibit the extent to which gold thread is used for decorating the principal or free end of the turban-piece. A stripe of gold thread nearly 4 inches wide, as in No. 15, is of course very effective, but the turban with merely a ^ or a T L-inch stripe of the same material, as in No. 16, when seen on the head, is felt to be far from destitute of ornament. It is of importance that the metal thus introduced should be of a quality which will stand the process of washing. Nos. 2, 8, and 12 are instances in which inferior gold thread has been used, while No. 15 shows a better quality. A marginal stripe of red cotton thread (as in No. 6) constitutes a favourite combination, and adds considerably to the ornamental character of the plain gold stripe. Nos. 15 and 18 are beautiful examples of fine muslin-like materials used for turbans, and in these the gold thread is seen to be of excellent quality. The first of these comes from Chundeyree, long celebrated for its muslins, and the last from Hyderabad in the Deccan, having been probably manufactured at Dhanwarum or Nandair, places famous for fabrics of this kind. Vol. No. Description. Measurement of piece. Weight of of piece. Place of manufacture or v.here obtained. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. I. 2 Cotton, bleached. Common material, with two narrow 23 12 12 Bhurtpore. gold stripes in end. Cotton, bleached. Thin texture ; narrow (J-inch) 16 1 3 14 Kangra. stripe of gold thread in end. )) 6 Cotton, bleached. Fine texture. Two-inch stripe of 20 11 8 Cashmere. gold thread in end, with small double lines of red on each side. 8 Cotton, bleached. Medium texture. In common use 23 18 13 12 Sind. among the higher classes. Wide (2j inches) stripe of gold thread, with two smaller ones nearer to end. 10 Cotton, bleached. Made in India, of English thread. 22 131 9 Benares. One-inch gold stripe in end. 11 Cotton, bleached. Made at the same time as the last 22 13i 12 Benares. sample, but of Indian thread. 2-inch stripe of gold thread in end. 12 Cotton, bleached. Fine, light texture. -inch stripe of 17 12 7 Hoshiarpore. gold thread in end. 13 Cotton, bleached. Fine texture, f -inch stripe of gold 33 10 9 Hyderabad, Deccan. thread in end. 14 Cotton, bleached. Fine texture, ^-inch stripe of gold 20 9 9 Hyderabad, Deccan. thread in end. 15 Cotton, unbleached. Fine texture. Broad (2| inches) 29 121 71 Chundeyree. stripe of gold thread, and three narrow stripes of same closer to end. ' 16 Cotton, unbleached. Gauze, of good texture. Very 21 09,06 Madras. narrow (y^-inch) stripe of gold thread in end. Price 4*. 8rf. 17 Cotton, unbleached. Favourite texture. 1^-iuch stripe 21 101 10 Hyderabad, Deccau. of gold thread, with three narrow stripes nearer to end, and one narrow stripe on inner margin. A nar- row stripe (^-inch) of gold thread is also introduced into the other end of this turban-piece. 18 Cotton, unbleached. Gauze-like texture. |-inch stripe 33 13 9 Hyderabad, Deccan. of gold thread across end. ITIll'.ANs. 17 4. Truiux PIECES. COTTON ; DYED on PRINTED. Nos. -20, 30, 31, 32, and 34 arc the examples given. Of these No. 34 is the one which, in point of material and colour, is the most worthy of attention. No. 20 is interesting as a specimen of what, next to colouring by hand, may be considered the simplest way of producing an ornamental effect, namely, that of using a stamp to lay a body color on the surface of the material. In the specimen in question a star pattern, in white and black, has been thus stamped on a dull red ground. This mode of ornamentation is not uncommon, but it is not an economical one, as the material cannot be cleaned or washed. In the specimen referred to (No. 20) it will be observed that the white stands out from the dull red ground on which it is placed in a way which has a good effect. It is said that in the making up of this turban padding is employed, a mode of construc- tion which is not uncommon in some parts of the country. The turban piece in question (No. 20) is 14 yards long, 10 inches wide, and weighs 7 ounces. It was manufactured at Bhurtpore. No. 30 is a rather coarse material with a small close pattern in dark-red and black on a pinkish-white ground. About 3 inches of the end is dark-red with a pattern in black printed on it. Length 15 yards, width 9 inches, and weight 9-V ounces. Manufactured at Sydapet, and stated to be worn by the Lubbays, an industrious class of Mahomedan fishermen and merchants on the Madras coast. No. 31, an ordinary calico material. Pattern, a small zig-zag stripe of red on a white ground. Six inches of the principal end are dark-red, with an ornamental pattern in black printed on it. Length, 12 yards; width, 11 inches; weight, lib. Manufactured at Pomady but bought in Madras bazaar. Price in 1854, 2s. 7\d* No. 32, quality similar to last example. Pattern a small black and white check. Six inches of principal end dark red, with pattern in black and white. Length, l6i yards ; width, 9 inches ; weight, 154 ounces. From Pomady, in Madras, price 3s. In this, and in No. 31, the fabric is sized or stiffened in an unusual degree, but this would probably be removed before making up the piece for use. No. 34 shows a favourite style of pattern, and although very inferior in texture, is otherwise not unlike the specimens from Jeypore Nos. 23 to 28 included under group 6. The pattern may be described as a double zig-zag. Three inches of the principal end is of the main colour of the piece, viz. purple. When made up, the whole would form a turban similar in appearance to that shown in figure 8, PI. II. Length, 16.V yards; width 10 inches; weight, 15i ounces. Obtained in Madras. Price 3s. 5. TrRBAN-PlECES. CoTTON ; DYED, COLOURED, OR PRINTED ; GoLD THREAD IN ENDS. The subjoined table contains the examples coming under this head. Nos. 23 to 29 inclusive are admirable specimens both of material and of style. They are from Jeypore, a native state, which in other branches of art shows evidence of skill in manipulation and in management of colour. * The prices given here and elsewhere throughout this work, and which are the same as those on the labels in the Fabric Books, must not be taken as a correct guide to present values. They simply represent the sums paid in 1854 by the various Committees appointed by the Government in India to collect specimens for the Paris Universal Exhibition of the following year. Although on the main reliable for the period named, the prices attached to some of the articles are clearly inaccurate. 18 LOOM-MADE GARMENTS : The turban in fig. 9, of Plate II. shows the peculiar zig-zag pattern, which is a favourite in many parts of Rajpootana, and is employed in other garment pieces besides turbans. Some of the examples are so soft and fine to the touch, that it is at first difficult to believe that they are composed of cotton unmixed with silk. No. 33, made at Madura in Madras, a place long celebrated for its manufactures and for its excellent dyes, is a good example of a useful material and of a favourite dark-red colour which shows the gold thread to much advantage. In this piece it will also be observed that a little gold thread is worked into the end of the turban which is usually next the head. In the folding and tying up of such turbans the wearer manages to show both ends. Vol. No. Description. Measurement of piece. Weight of of piece. Place of manufacture or where obtained. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. I. 23 Cotton, printed. Fine texture. Red and white zig-zag 18 18 9 4 Jeypore, pattern. 1^-inch stripe of gold thread in principal Rajpootana. end. )> 24 Cotton, printed. Fine texture. Zig-zag striped 17 18 9 3 Ditto pattern, in variegated colours. If -inch gold stripe in end. J 25 Cotton, printed. Fine texture. Pattern, small zig-zag 18 18 8i 4 Ditto stripes, of crimson and yellow. About 3 inches of end plain red, with If -inch stripe of gold thread. ?) 26 Cotton, printed. Fine texture. Pattern, zig-zag 18 18 9 4 Ditto stripes, inch wide, in variegated colours. Prin- cipal end, plain red with 3j-inch stripe of gold thread. J> 27 Cotton, printed. Fine texture. Zig-zag stripes, 24 11 8 Ditto of a dotted pattern, in variegated colours, on a scarlet ground. Principal end, plain scarlet, with 2 inch stripe of gold thread. JJ 28 Cotton, printed. Fine texture. Zig-zag stripes 17 i 9 3i Ditto in red and white. Principal end, plain red, with gold thread stripe 1^- inches wide. J5 29 Cotton, printed. Fine texture. Figured pattern dotted 21 10 51 Ditto in colours. 2 inch stripe of gold thread in principal end. Favourite pattern in Eajpootana. > 33 Cotton, printed. Useful material. Pattern, a small 23 12 13 Madura, Madras. white spot on a deep chocolate red ground. Prin- cipal end ornamented with 1-inch stripe, and three smaller ones of gold thread. The other end has also four gold threads introduced into the fabric. Price 105. 6. TuRBAN-PlECES. COTTON ; DYED, COLOURED, OR PRINTED ; GOLD THREAD IN ENDS, BORDERS, &c. In these we have examples of the more profuse application of the gold thread for ornamental purposes. Nos. 19, 22, 36 and 37, are illustrations of the method by which, in addition to the stripe across the principal end, the external folds become an ornamental portion of the turban when in wear. To accomplish this, one or more stripes of gold thread are carried to a considerable distance down the piece from the free end ; in one case indeed it extends throughout the whole length of the piece. , &c. TURBANS. 19 The extent to which this method is adopted varies considerably. A bulky turban, like that which No. 36 would make up, requires a larger amount of this kind of ornamentation to produce the effect shown in figure 10, PI., II. than would be needed by one of smaller dimensions. Nos. 36 and 37, like No. 33 referred to under the last head, are from Madura in Madras, and afford additional examples of that dark red which is so favourite and so suitable a colour for this class of turbans. The following details apply to each of the four examples in this group : No. 19. Length, IQi yards; width, 13 inches. A light red colour. Cross stripes and figures in gold thread of a poor quality occupy 20 inches of the principal end, and two stripes, each of about half an inch in breadth, extend four yards down centre of piece. From Oodeypoor in Rajpootana. No. 22. Length, 13 yards ; width, 17 inches, weight 12 ounces. Red. Three |-inch wide stripes of gold with black margins run throughout the whole length of the borders and centre of piece. Four and a half yards of the principal 'end are ornamented with gold spots somewhat of a pine shape, and it is finished off with a figured and striped pattern also in gold thread. From Hoshiarpore, Punjab. No. 36. Length, 261 yards ; width, 15 inches ; weight, 1 Ib. 3| oz. Price 4. Favourite red colour. Stripes of gold thread extend for 10 yards down the centre from the principal end, and for 4jj- yards from the other end. About 20 inches of the principal end are enriched with cross stripes and figures in gold From Madura, Madras. No. 37- Length, 23 yards; width, 12 inches; weight, 13 oz. Price 2. Favourite colour, like the last, and from the same place of manufacture. In addition to an inch-wide stripe of gold in centre, this specimen has a narrow stripe of the same extending 6 yards down from the principal or free end, and a 3-inch wide cross stripe, with 10 smaller ones in three rows, completes the ornamentation. /. TuRBAN-PlECES. COTTON ; DYED ; GoLD PRINTED. The specimen No. 21, although imperfect in execution, affords an illustration of a kind of ornamentation which is not uncommon, and which can be adopted with considerable advantage in the embellishment of fabrics not requiring to be washed nor likely to be exposed to wet. The process by which this mode of decoration is accomplished is by stamping the desired pattern on the cloth with glue. The gold or silver leaf, as the case may be, is then laid on, and adheres to the glue. When dry, what has not rested on the glue is rubbed off. The turban piece No. 21 is 14i yards long and 7 inches wide. The ground is crimson. A gold printed figured stripe, 3^ inches wide, extends the whole length of the centre of the piece. Padding is used in making up this turban, and, in this case, there is no special ornamentation across either end. From Bhurtpore. Such gold printed turbans are used for marriage ceremonies and other household or family festivals, and not for ordinary wear. (3428.) 20 LOOM-MADE GARMENTS : 8. TuRBAN-PlECES. SlLK, &C. As before indicated, silk, although not nearly so common as cotton, is nevertheless frequently employed in the manufacture of turbans. The example given (No. 38) is of silk and cotton, and affords an illustration of a fabric fairly suited for its purpose, such mixtures of the two materials being, in some respects, better calculated to fulfil the functions of the turban than silk alone. It is probable that some of the beautiful silk materials, of the mousseline de sole or gauze class, would, if manufactured into proper turban-pieces, form an attractive article with the richer natives, always supposing that suitable colours and styles of end ornamentation were adopted. The example given (No. 38) is 2(^ yards long, 10 inches wide, and weighs 8| ounces. Price 11*. The warp is a dark purplish red silk, and the weft is a dark cotton. The end is decorated with a f-inch stripe, with two smaller ones on each side. B. TUKBAN-PIECES ; SQUAKE. The class of turbans, or roomals, to which we have now to refer, are those composed of large squares, or pieces nearly square. When made up they present an appearance somewhat like that shown in fig. 12, PI. II., and fig. 24, PI. IV., which illustrate the Shumla, or shawl turban. These squares vary in size from one and a half to four yards per side three, and three and a half yards constituting a useful size. Yarns of the quality of English 60 s (warp) and 80 8 (weft) would produce articles of suitable texture. These squares are sometimes worn over the shoulders as well as used for head-dresses. No. 43, Vol. II. is said to be used both ways. It is a tolerably fine plain book-muslin, with a gold stripe in the borders. Length, 2 yards ; width, 2 yards ; weight, 6 ounces. Price 11*. Manufactured at Arnee, Madras. No. 35, Vol. I., is 96 inches square, and its weight is 12 ounces. It is a moderately fine muslin of the favourite deep-red colour before alluded to. On two sides it has a black border, 1^ inches wide, with a figured gold pattern in it of If inches. The other two sides have each a stripe consisting of a few black and gold threads. Manufactured at Madura, Madras. Price 13*. No. 40, Vol. I., is a fine muslin, scarlet, with deep (3f inches) gold borders set off with black. It is not quite square, the length one way being 1 yard 22 inches, and the other 1 yard 16 inches. Its weight 6^ ounces appears heavy, when its fineness is considered, but this is due to the amount of gold thread which it contains. Manufactured at Bhurtpore, near Agra. No. 39 Vol. I., affords an example in which silk and gold together are employed for the decoration of a cotton fabric, a combination of which we shall find many illustrations in the other classes of wearing apparel. Form nearly square, the length one way being 3| yards, and the other 3^ yards; weight 1 Ib. 11 oz. Price 2 15*. 3d. Colour, a deep blue. Has a figured border, 1^ inch wide, of gold and silk on two borders, and of silk alone on the other two. LOONGEES AND DHOTEES. 21 In the foregoing descriptions of the modes of ornamenting turbans, it will be observed that silver thread has not been mentioned as in use for that purpose. In some parts of the country, however, it is employed, as for instance in the Dharwar district, where a kind of turban called the Mondasa is manufactured, and is said to be worn by the poorer classes on festival days. The use of silver thread is not common, on account of its liability to tarnish ; and perhaps also because the difference between the cost of the small quantity of gold and of silver thread, which proves sufficient for the embellishment of a turban, is too small to render it an important element in the calculation, whilst the greater beauty of the former secures for it the preference. II. LOONGEES AND DHOTEES. Before the introduction of the art of sewing, the dress of the male Hindu, in addition to the head-cloth, consisted of two scarf-formed pieces, one of which was worn over the shoulders and upper part of the body, and the other was used as covering for the loins and legs. The first of these is called a Loongee* and the second a Dhotee.f At the present time the usual dress of the poorer classes of Mahomedans and Hindus, whilst at home or at work, consists simply of the piece of cloth called a Dhotee wrapped round the loins. The end of this, after a couple of turns round the waist, is passed by the Hindu between the legs, and thrust under the folds which cross behind. Occasionally, however, the end is passed from behind and fastened in front. Amongst the Mahomedans again, the loin-cloth, after being folded two or three times round the waist, is usually allowed to hang down : that is, it is not tucked up between the legs as with the Hindus. The standing figure in group 4, PI. L, and other figures in Plates III. and IV., afford illustrations of the manner in which this article of dress is worn. The simpler form consists of a small piece of calico, J with its ends turned over a string tied round the haunches, while the more elaborate forms are nearly as copious as a woman's petticoat. Figures 22 and 23, PI. IV., show this. Although piece-goods of a suitable breadth are largely cut up into dhotees, as well as into shoulder-scarfs, it is to the Loongee and Dhotee manufactured of the proper length and width, that is, in separate pieces, that we have here more particularly to refer. The first class of articles, viz. the Loongees, or scarfs, for wearing over the body and shoulders, are of the more importance, because they afford greater scope for the introduction of those decorations which we have seen to be so successfully employed in turbans. * This term has come to be generally applied to the shoulder or upper cloth worn by males. The majority of the specimens forwarded from India, and inserted in the Fabric Books, were so designated, and although not precisely correct, this name (Loongee) is here adopted as affording, for trade purposes, a convenient distinction between shoulder and loin cloths. Strictly speaking, the Loongee is worn by Mahomedans, and has the same function as the Dhotee of the Hindu. f Dhotee; derived from dhona, to wash, and so named from being washed daily at the time of bathing. Every Dhotee, however, has not this daily washing, for in its more elaborate form it is embellished with ornamental borders, and, by the rich as well as the poor, on festival occasions, is doffed after the ablutions for the day have been finished. J Langgoti is the name used when the Dholee is very small. (Buchanan, in Martin's "Eastern India," Vol. HI., p. 103.) F 2 22 LOOK -MADE GARMENTS : As we proceed it will be observed that these scarfs are frequently manufactured in pairs,* with a fag between for convenience of separation ; the longer portion being used to wrap round the upper part of the body, and the shorter piece round the loins, as already described. The Loongee is worn over the shoulder in a variety of ways. Plates III. and IV., and more particularly the latter, show some of these. It will be observed, also, that most of the male figures represented in Plates I and III. have a cloth of some sort thrown over the shoulder, ready to be adjusted as circumstances may require. The same cloth, when of plain material, acts not only as a plaid during the day, but as a sheet at night, f These scarfs vary in length from 3 to 6 yards, and in breadth from 1 or 1^ to 3 yards ; two breadths being often joined to form a wider garment.J The materials (cotton, silk, and sometimes wool, or combinations of these) of which the Loongees and Dhotees are made, are fully illustrated by the examples, upwards of ninety in number, to be seen in the Textile Work itself. The remark made under the head of Turbans, as to the character of the special ornamentation adopted, applies equally to the loom-made garment pieces presently to be described ; the principle, as already stated, being to employ the decoration in the manner best calculated to set off the articles ivhen in wear. For this purpose, not only are the ends ornamented, but the borders also, as may be seen in the scarfs over the shoulders of the figures in PI. IV. In the case of these men's scarfs, the two ends as well as the borders receive the same amount of ornamentation because both are seen when in use. As in the case of turbans, however, we find that the scarfs worn by women have only one ornamented end, the opposite one being usually concealed in the process of folding round the person. The introduction of special borders and ends into the parts not seen would not only be wasteful, and therefore objectionable, but from the character of the materials employed, it would increase the thickness of the fabric in a way which would interfere with the comfort of the wearer. "We now proceed to afford specific information regarding this class of native manufacture. An arrangement similar to that adopted in the case of turbans will be followed; that is, we shall speak of them according to quality and character of ornamentation, beginning with the inferior and proceeding upwards to the more elaborate specimens.^" A cloth of this sort, of which two pieces form a dress, is called Jore, from Jora, a pair. f The calico sheet called Dakar is in the cold weather doubled and worn over the shoulders. (Buchanan, in Martin's " Eastern India.") J A scarf consisting of two such pieces or breadths stitched together, is called Doputta (literally two breadths) ; the single piece, or width, Ecputta (one breadth) is also used without being joined ; but those who can afford it prefer the more ample garment supplied by the Doputta. Silk and wool loin cloths, or combinations of both, are called Pitambur, and are worn by Brahmins and other high class Hindus exclusively at meal times, when cotton garments of any kind are impure. At meals the Brahmin or other strict Hindu ought to wear no other garment than a Pitambur, the head and body to the waist being uncovered. f The only inconvenience which may be experienced from this arrangement is that the reader who wishes to refer to the samples themselves will have occasionally to turn from one volume to another. This arises from three causes. As originally grouped the examples most worthy of attention were inserted first : in other instances an effort was made to keep together the manufactures of a particular district ; and, lastly, in order to render the work as complete as possible, two or three of the volumes were prepared after the others were finished. C OSXTT M Z - 1 X.JL.U ST COOTTO1T. LOOXGEES AND DHOTJ:i l': , A. LOONGEES, INCLUDING DHOTEES WHEN MANUFACTURED TOGETHER. 1. COTTON. PLAIN; COLOURED ENDS; NO BORDI:I;>. This group, in its simplicity, approaches the class of piece goods which have merely to be cut across to form scarfs of suitable dimensions.* Nos. 79 and 80 (Vol. II.) afford illustrations of the commonest material of which this garment is made. No. 79 is a rag for a boy, and is 1 yard 3 inches in length, 19 inches in width, :ind weighs 2 ounces. It has a few chocolate-coloured threads across each end close to the edge. From Biekul (now Carwar) N. Canara. No. 80. A coarse, thick, unbleached cotton, having two red stripes and one blue at each end. Worn by the Burghers, an aboriginal Hill-tribe in Southern India. Length, 5 yards 9 inches ; width, 1 yard ; weight, 3 Ibs. 1 oz. From Coirnbatore, Madras. 2. COTTON. PLAIN ; COLOURED BORDERS AND ENDS. Nos. 46, 47, 50, and 54, Vol. II., in the subjoined Table afford examples of the Jore or complete dress of two pieces, the longer forming the Loongee for wear round the shoulders and upper part of the body, and the shorter, which is of the same pattern, being the loin cloth or Dhotee. These are woven with a fag, to allow of their being readily separated. No. 75 is an instance of an unusually wide border. Nos. 76, 77, and 78 are illustrations of what may be called the minimum of ornamentation under this head slight, however, as it is, it adds materially to the attractiveness of the piece. No. 52 is a plain muslin material with simple borders and ends. Although entered as a mans garment, it would be much more frequently used as a woman's Saree. Nos. 109 and 110, Vol. III., although received from Bombay, and stated to have been made at Surat, are probably of English manufacture. The borders are good, but the few stripes which form the end pattern are too poor, in proportion, to be effective. So far as we have observed, this is a remark which applies to almost all the attempts hitherto made in this country to manufacture this class of goods for the Indian market. The light, open texture of the fabric, required for ordinary wear in India, is well shown in this group ; but further on we shall find illustrations of the thicker cotton materials which It will be observed that the numbers on the right-hand corner of the labels run through the different volumes consecutively- from 1 upwards an arrangement which affords facility of reference. In each example the utm,-t care has been taken to give a sufficient number of portions to show the whole pattern, and so to constitute what, is called a working sample. In cases which show only one specimen of a border or end pattern, it is to be understood that the two ends borders are alike. * The greater proportion of the grey, and the inferior qualities of the bleached piece-goods exported from thin country to India, are employed in this manner. LOOM-MADE GARMENTS are employed during the cold season of the year, and the manufacture of which has as yet, we believe, been entirely confined to India itself. Vol. No. Description. Measurement. Weight. Cost.* Place of manufacture, or where obtained. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. s. d. II. 46 Cotton, plain. One-inch border. Coloured stripes, Loongee "1 inch wide, in each end, in yellow and choco- late. 5 20 Dh'otee r 2 1 4 026 Ganjam, Madras. 2 27 j II. 47 Cotton, plain. Gauze-like texture. Green and yellow striped border, f inch wide. At each end, one 1 inch, red and green stripe, and one Loongee 5 4 Dhotee L 14 023 c Nagang, J bought in l_ Madras. |-inch red stripe, ! inch apart. 2 27 j II. 50 Cotton, plain. A blue and yellow stripe, ^ inch Loongee 1 wide in border, and two similar stripes across each end. 3 9 Dhotee 2 18 1 not f given J }l 6 039 Nellore, Madras. II. 54 Cotton, plain, unbleached. One-inch border of Loongee "I reddish brown, striped with two blue lines. At each end, two red and yellow cross stripes, 4 18 Dhotee 16 1 21 2 11 Congeveram, iVIadras. one 1| inches, and one ^ inch wide. 2 27 J II. 75 Cotton, plain, unbleached. Seven-inch border 5 28 1 4 1 7 033 Ganjam, (unusually wide), red, yellow, and white stripes. Stripes of same colours in 6^ inches of the prin- - Madras. cipal end. At opposite end ^-inch stripe of red and white. II. 76 Cotton, plain. ^-inch brown stripe in border 3 1 3 81 1 3 Candapoor, (badly marked). Two -^ inch, and one ^-inch N. Canara. red stripes across each end. n. 77 Cotton, plain, unbleached, inch chocolate colour 8 9 1 5 1 10 2 41 Vencata- stripe in border, and two similar ones across gorry, each end. Madras. ii. 78 Cotton, plain, unbleached. T Vinch chocolate colour line in border. At each end, one ^ inch, and, at 2 inches distance, two T \j-inch stripes of red. in. 109 Cotton, plain. A 2-inch border, figured in red, 2 9 1 3 61 1 Surat, Bom- green, and yellow thread. Three lines of red bay. thread across each end. in. 110 Cotton, plain. Two-inch chequered border, in 4 8 1 5 121 1 7 Surat, Bom- red, green, and yellow. -J-inch stripe of five bay. red lines across each end. n. 52 Coarse muslin. Yellow stripe (-[-% inch wide) in 7 27 1 9 131 030 Nagang, border. One fa inch, and one small double bought in stripe of yellow across principal end. Madras. See note, page 17. 3. COTTON. PLAIN ; SILK IN BORDERS AND ENDS. In this class the ornamentation is accomplished by the use of silk. In No. 45 the silk is inserted in the border only, and in 'No. 48 in the end only; but in the other examples given in the table below, both ends and borders are of silk. Nos. 44, 45, 48, afford examples of the pleasing effect produced by making the pointings (called Kutaree, from Kutar, a dagger) seemingly unite the inner side of the border to the body of the garment. LOONGEES AND DHOTEES. 25 It will be observed that the whole of the examples under this head, with the exception of the boy's garment (No. 48), are woven in two pieces to form a Jore, or dress. Vol. No. I V"* c r i pt 1 on Measu rement Pswt PUceof maim Length. Width. Weight. l/Offu or n i obtained. jd". ins. yds. ins. Ibs. n/. i. d. n. u Cotton, plain. Common texture : figured border, Loongee ieh wide, of coloured cotton, with a little Moonga silk used in imitation of gold 5 18 Dhoteo }1 10 1 9 030 GnnjaiM. thread. The Kntr puttern introduced in 3 4 Madras. the inner edge of border. Two coloured stripes (yellow and chocolate) at each end, one , 7 . inch and one inch wide, and 3^- inch apart. \Voven in two pii-ee.-. \vith a fag lictv about ii. 48 Cotton, plain. Hoy's garment. Borders 2j inches 1 34 27 2 1 4 Congeveram, wide, of variegated stripe.-. In ends, two co- Madras loured stripes of cotton and silk ; one '2\ in< and one inch wide, and 1-J ii'/lics apa.-t. In this instance the borders a: of different colours. This variation adds to the attractive- ness of the piece, so long as both colours arc kept in harmony. ii. 44 Cotton, plain. Figured border, with Kular Loongee "I edge of coloured silk 1-J inches wide ; one 3- inch silk and cotton, and one 1-inch cotton 5 9 Dhotee 1, . 1 8 080 Salem, Ma- coloured stripe in end. Woven in two pieces, 3 9 J dras. with a fag between.* n. 49 Cotton, plain, unbleached. .Narrow stripe of deep Loongee "I plum-coloured silk, -J s inch wide, along bonier. Cross stripes of same colour at each end, viz., 3 Dhotee ll 18 1 11 086 Woozzoor, one inch wide, and narrow double stripe, 1| 2 27 J Madras. inch wide nearer to end. Woven in two pi> with a fag between.* ii. 53 Cotton, plain, unbleached. Good texture. Figured Loongee I silk border (with Kutar edge), H inch wide, 5 9 ll 9 111 OR ( i ^ 'lip 111 AT'l- white silk being used in it in imitation Dhotee 1 o v/ k illt_JHj jTj tl" of silver thread At each end one 3-inch 3 J dras. and one ^-inch coloured stripe of silk and cot- ton. Woven in two pieces, with a fag between.* n. 55 Cotton, plain, unbleached. Good texture, i inch Loongee "I reddish brown silk stripe in border. Two similar stripes, one 2^ inches and one f inch wide, at each end. Woven in two pieces, with 4 27 Dhotee 2 27 }" 1 6 056 Congeveram, Madras. a fag between.* * The fay here alluded to as dividing the piece into two portions, that is, into the Loongee, or body garment, and the Dhotee, or loin cloth, is introduced in order to allow of the two garments being easily separated. 4. COTTON. PLAIN ; COLOURED BORDERS ; GOLD IN ENDS. Example No. 51, Vol. II. A plain muslin with narrow deep purple-coloured borders, and at each end a half-inch cross stripe of crimson and gold thread. This sample is another illustration of the manner in which, by a judicious use of a small amount of material, a pleasant effect is produced. Length, 3 yards ; width, 1 yard 9 inches ; weight, 1 Ib. 3 oz. Price 10*. 6d. From Arnee, Madras. 26 LOOM-MADE GARMENTS : 5. COTTON. PLAIN ; GOLD AND COLOURED COTTON IN BORDERS ; GOLD IN ENDS. No. 42, Vol. II. Bleached. Figured borders of gold and of black cotton thread. Has two stripes of gold at each end. Two pieces in one length with fag between. Length of Loongee 5 yards 27 inches, and of Dhotee 3 yards 4 inches ; width, 1 yard 13 inches ; weight, 1 Ib. 3 oz. Price \l. 10s. From Woopparaddy, Madras. 6. COTTON. PLAIN ; GOLD AND COLOURED SILK IN BORDERS ; GOLD IN ENDS. No. 41, Vol. II., is an excellent example both of texture and style. Material, unbleached cotton. Flowered borders of black silk and gold 1^ inches wide. Gold stripe (2 inches wide) at each end. Length, 8 yards 21 inches ; width, 1 yard 19 inches; weight, 1 Ib. Price 31. 12s. From Madura, Madras. Having shown the manner in which a plain white cotton fabric is rendered attractive, by the ornamentation of its ends and borders, we come next to the instances in which colour is employed in the body of the piece, as well as in the ends and borders. In the three groups which follow, the classification has not, as in the previous groups, been strictly founded upon the character of the border and end patterns, since the quality or thickness of the material has been also taken into consideration. In group 7, the texture, although a little closer, will be found to be not unlike that of examples already dealt with. In No. 8 group, however, we find a stouter and softer material ; whilst in group 9 the fabric is as thick as many of the slighter woollen cloths made in England. It is an error to suppose that thick and warm fabrics are not required in India. Throughout a great portion of that country the suffering of the poor from cold during certain seasons, particularly at night, is as great as with us in Europe. The temperature in many parts of India falls occasionally during the cold season to the freezing point or below it. But even when the temperature does not go down so low as 32, a fall from 90 during the day to 60 at night- a by no means uncommon occurrence at certain seasons produces a very decided sensation of cold and a consequent demand for warm clothing. The thicker materials now under consideration are durable as well as warm, and of their commercial importance as a class, evidence is afforded by the fact that during the recent cotton famine in England and the consequent rise in price of the raw material in India, the native goods retained their position in the market more firmly than the English ones did, though the price of the native-made goods rose to a much greater extent than did that of the European. The report of the Sudder Board of Revenue to the Government of the North- Western Provinces " regarding the slackness of demand for European cotton goods " (dated Allahabad, 16th March 1864) so well illustrates this point that we give in a foot-note the portions which specially refer to the subject.* " The extraordinary rise of price " (of the raw material) " has affected, though unequally, the demand both for native and for European stuffs. The same money only buys half, and often less than half, the quantity of cloth it used to." " The enhanced prices have diminished the consumption both of English and of native pieces ; but, at least in the western districts, they have affected the English more than the native. This is remarkable, seeing that the native goods have advanced in price in a higher ratio than the European the increase in the former LOOXGKKS AM) JHIOTEES. 27 The man who could afford to purchase only one garment piece in the year found it true economy to buy one which would both last long, and give him a proper protection against cold.* We may here remark that many of the mixed cotton and woollen fabrics now manufactured in tliis country would probably be suitable substitutes in the Indian market for the thick and warm cotton stuffs which the native makes ; all that is wanted being skill in turning out goods of the proper lengths and breadths, and with a style of ornamentation like that which the native adopts and likes; an important necessity, however, being that they should be of good washing material, both as to quality and dye : without this qualification they would be useless. It would be well if a thicker class of cotton goods could be supplied at a price which would suit the ordinary Indian consumer ; but there is no doubt that mixtures of cotton and wool of a fine soft description, would suit a large class of the people. Indeed, we actually find that in India, where the supply of the finer kinds of wool is as yet but limited, the high price of cotton during the past three years considerably increased the use of woollen manufactures, which in some districts were more than doubled in price.f 1 . COTTON. COLOURED THREAD ; BORDERS AND ENDS FORMED BY MODIFICATIONS OF PATTERN. The subjoined table indicates the examples which come under this head. It will be observed that with the exception of Nos. 117, Vol. III., and 129, Vol. IV., the whole of the illustrations given have been manufactured by the Lubbays of Madras, to whom reference has already been made. Some of the specimens show expertness in the imitation of foreign $ patterns, and their skill in suiting these to the requirements of the being cent, per cent., and i:i some cases rising even to near 200 per cent., while the latter have risen only from 50 to 100 per cent." "One chief reason for this difference is no doubt, that the native fabrics are heavier and contain more cotton ; the COBl of production remaining the same, the rise in the price is of course greater in the heavier than in the lighter stuft's." . . " What is strange is, that while they have increased in price so much more than English goods, they should still maintain themselves in the market better than English goods can do. Yet the tenor of the evidence contained in the returns leaves no doubt on this head." " The consumption of the native goods has diminished in consequence of the increased price, but the consumption of English goods has diminished in Car greater measure. In this view the native goods have, to some extent and in a certain sense, taken the place of the English ; yet this has been, not in consequence of increased, but in spite of very considerably diminished production. The reasons assigned are various. It is alleged that, notwithstanding the relatively greater increase of its price, the cost of the coarse native article is still considerably less than that of any English stuffs that would answer the same object. It is held that the native article is more durable, thicker, warmer, and better suited to the wants of the people in these provinces ; and that Lancashire inuM produce a coarser, thicker, and cheaper article than it does at present before it can compete in this department of manufacture with the native weaver." In the appendix to the same report, Mr. W. A. Forbes states that the Mar/troi, a stout warm kind of English cloth, somewhat like the stout native variety, became doubled in price, whereas the ordinary light English gooils increased in price to the extent of only one-third. The inconvenience which would arise from wearing the thicker material during the hot period of the year is simply avoided by not putting it on. f Mr. H. D. Robertson (in Appendix to the Report already quoted) states this with reference to the Saharun- pore districts , and the remark applies to other places as well. f Is it certain that the checks and other patterns here alluded to are foreign to India ? Our knowledge of the fact that these Lubbays are reputed to have devoted themselves very much to the manufacture of such imitations seems to indicate the probability that the patterns in question are of exotic origin, and we are inclined to believe that some of the more Tartan-looking ones must be so. On the other hand we have, from parts of India with which our communications have been of recent date, patterns clearly of Indian origin, yet very similar to our Tartans. (3423.) G 28 LOOM-MADE GARMENTS Indian market. It will be observed that in the checks which have been imitated, the ends and borders, which constitute the article a separate and special garment, have been produced simply by a modification of the body pattern. Vol. No. Description. Measurement. Weight. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. s. d. n. 63 Cotton. Pattern, green, red, white, and yellow 3 27 1 3 10i 036 Conathoor, cheek. Borders 1 inch, and ends 7 inches, Madras. formed by modification of pattern. n. 65 Cotton. Pattern, black and white check, on 3 18 1 2 1 1 030 Pulicat, Ma- crimson ground. Borders 1 inch wide, dras. and ends 8 inches, formed by modification of pattern. n. 66 Cotton. Pattern, large blue and white check, 3 27 1 6 12 029 Mylapore, Borders and ends formed by modification of Madras. pattern. ii. 67 Cotton. Pattern, blue and white (J inch) check 4 9 1 2 14 080 Pulicat, Ma- on scarlet ground. Borders and ends formed dras. by modification of pattern. n. 68 Cotton. Pattern, large (2^ inch) blue and white 3 27 1 2 1 3 053 Pulicat, Ma- check. Blue ground. No special border. Yel- dras. low cross stripes in each end. n. 69 Cotton. Pattern, green, yellow, and white (f inch) 7 12 1 2 1 6 070 Mylapore, check on a red ground. Border and ends Madras. formed by modification of pattern ii. 71 Cotton. Pattern, a small blue ( inch) check 2 9 1 4 o 71 020 Coonathoor, on crimson ground. Border 1^ inch wide, Madras. formed by modification of pattern. Cross stripes of red and white introduced into each end. n. 72 Cotton. Pattern, email crimson check (9 lines to 6 27 1 3 1 6 080 Coonathoor. an inch) on a black ground. The weft stripe Madras. withdrawn in 40 inches of each end, and cross stripes of red and white are introduced. ii. 73 Cotton. Pattern, blue, crimson, and white check. 3 18 34 9 o 2 n Coonathoor, 1 inch border and 6 inch ends, formed by mo- Madras. dification of pattern. in. 117 Cotton. Pattern, small blue and white check to 4 18 1 22 1 4 046 Loodiana, within 12 inches of each end. 2^-inch blue Punjab. stripe border. Cross stripes of blue at each end. IV. 129 Cotton. Pattern, red and white check. 3J-inch 4 30 1 8 1 060 Shikarpore, border and 7 inches of each end marked by Sind. modification of pattern. 8. COTTON. COLOURED THREAD ; STRIPES AND CHECKS ; SPECIAL BORDERS AND ENDS. In this group it will be observed that although some of the patterns are similar to those in the last one, the borders have a more special character. As regards thickness of material some of the examples in it are intermediate between the last group and that which is to follow. No. Ill, Vol. III., shows a soft material, pleasant to wear, and is worthy of careful examination. LOOXGEES ANT) DHOTEES. Vol. No. Description. Mi'usurvnu-nt. Weight. C061. I'la. Manuftctuiv, or whence obtained. Length. Width. yds. ins. . ins. Ills. t 1. ./. 11. 09 u. Drop rose colour, with Mack stripes. 1 1 "l ! "I I.'! \ .M\ lap.ire. to the inch. Borders (^-inr ;iml lilack Madras. hes. At each end two yellow and ipea, one $ inch ami one .', inch wide. II. 60 Cotton. Dull yellow and choc . red check. 2 !) 1 <) o 10.;. 2 3 Karikal, Ma- (12 to the inch), 6 inches of each end Iieinjr dras. darker in pattern than liodv ot' piece, liorders inch) dark chocolate colour stripes. Made and worn by the Lubh: II. 68 Cotton. Small black line check (10 to an inch) 6 1 4 I ^ 7 9 Coonathoor, on dark lilne ground. Coloured stripes in Madras. borders 3J inches wide. In about a yard of each end of the piece the check pattern is dis- continued an i-ipc-. of various colour- and widths introduced. Worn liy theLubbays.* II. 64 Cotton. Deep rose colour ground, with -.arrow 2 !) 1 1 04 2 (i Karikal, Ma- black stripe, 10 to the inch. Same as No. dras. oil, but without the border. Worn by the Lubbuys. III. 100 Cotton. Red. Borders. 2-inch stripes, chiefly .-, 2S 32 12040 Shikar] )0re, green. A green, red, and white 3-inch stripe Sind. across each end. in. 10.: Cotton. Check of narrow blue lines ^l-inch apart. 6 12 1 4 1 14 060 Shikarpore, One inch border striped in colours. Cross . , L bind. stripes (.> inches) at each end, in orange, green, and crimson. A common pattern. m. Ill Cotton. Plain twilled. I -inch borders, red stripe, 2 30 1 18 17 7 3 Nurrapore, and dotted margin. Across each end a 3 -inch Sind. stripe in yellow, blue and red, and -inch stripe, in red and blue. in. 113 Cotton. Twilled, chrome yellow colour. Bordriv-, 2 27 1 14 1 7 040 Shikarpore, ^-inch stripe of green with white line edges. Sind. At each end cross stripe 1^ inches wide, same pattern as borders ; and near the extreme end a -inch stripe of green and white. 9- COTTON. COLOURED THREAD ; CHECKS AND STRIPES ; FIGURED DIAPER BODY ; BORDERS AND ENDS FORMED GENERALLY BY MODIFICATION OF PATTERN. The subjoined table includes the first examples given of the thick material* to which reference has been made, and to which the remarks regarding the probable advantages of employing a mixture of wool and cotton apply. Nos. 119, Vol. III., and 126 and 127, Vol. IV., are good examples of intermediate qualities. Nos. 479 and 480, Vol. XII., given under the head of Cloths for Domestic Purposes, afford illustrations of a still stouter and warmer fabric, which would prove saleable at certain times and places.f * Called Kass or, more properly, Khes. Loodiana Khes is said to be the best kind of cotton fabric " made in the Punjab. It is exported in some quantity to Leh and Chanthan in Chinese Tartary. Buchanan in " Martin's Eastern India," Vol. I. p. 353, defines Khes to be a cotton diaper used by natives as a dress, but in demand by Europeans for table-linen purposes. The prices of the specimens from Sind, although representing what they actually cost, can scarcely be regarded as representing their real value in the market. f So also do some of the thicker materials used for trouserings shown amongst the piece-goods. G 2 30 LOOM-MADE GARMENTS Vol. No. Description. Measurement. Weight of Piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds ins. Ibs. oz. x. il. III. 102 Cotton. Figured, diaper pattern. Two-inch bor- 5 4 1 20 3 6 047 Nurrapore, ders, dark umber and green stripes ; main stripe Sind. of light umber. 2f-inch green stripe across each end. A soft and thick fabric, much used. III. 112 Cotton. Figured, diaper pattern in red and white. 2 32 1 10 1 6 080? Nurrapore, Two-inch borders formed by variation in colour, Sind. and absence of the white stripe of the check pattern. Each end for 6 inches marked in similar way. Not so soft and thick as No. 102. III. 114 Cotton. Figured pattern in blue and white. 2 27 1 14 1 14 099? Nurrapore, Borders 4 inches, and ends 10 inches, formed Sind. by adaptation of body pattern. III. H5 Cotton. Figured pattern in blue and white, 2 33 1 22 2 1 15 41? Nurrapore, checked with crimson. Border and ends formed Sind. by adaptation of main pattern. III. 116 Cotton. Blue and white, ^ inch, checkered 2 34 26 2 1 099? Nurrapore, pattern. Borders 1 inch, of blue stripes. Sind. Stripe If inch wide, and of same pattern as border across each end. m. 118 Cotton. Figured pattern, blue and white. Border 2 13 1 1 1 12 050 Euneeporeim, 1-jy inch, and ends 5 inches, formed by modifica- Sind. tion of body pattern. in. 119 Cotton. Small blue and red checkered pattern, 2 27 1 20 1 5 12 0? Runeeporeim, on a white ground. An inch border of similar Sind. pattern, but still smaller. Blue and white cross stripes at each end, in keeping with general design. in. 120 Cotton. Dark blue, with broad white stripes. 3 12 1 10 2 21 036 Shikarpore, Special modification of pattern to form borders Sind. and ends. Used as a covering for the body, and also as horse cloths. IV. 121 Cotton. Dark blue. Large blue and white check. 3 111 1 10 1 131 020 Shikarpore, Striped 1^-inch borders, and one 2|-inch stripe Sind. across each end in accordance with pattern of piece. IV. 122 Cotton. Blue and white stripe. 1 inch coloured 2 27 1 4 1 4 1 H Shikarpore, stripe in border, l^-inch red stripe across Sind. each end. IV. 125 Cotton. Somewhat like a small diaper pattern. 3 1 18 1 5 Sylhet. The only attempt at ornamentation is in the narrow fringe at the end of the piece, in which red cotton is introduced at intervals of 1 inch. IV. 126 Cotton. Bleached. Somewhat like the " duck " 2 18 , 1 9 1 3 Cachar. used for military summer trowsers. No special borders or ends. Good example of a favourite plain warm material. IV. 127 Cotton. Bleached, coarse. Borders 3 inch 8 1 2 1 14 ! 2 ? Shikarpore, stripe of pink. Similar stripes across each end. Sind. Soft and thick material. XII. 479 Cotton. Soojney. A thick material of un- 2 9 1 4 2 046 Kurnool, bleached cotton, with large diaper pattern in Madras. bleached cotton woven in the unbleached mate- rial. Used as a counterpane. xn 480 Cotton. Soojney. A thick material of dark ! 2 9 1 4 2 046 Kurnool, red cotton, with large diaper pattern in bleached Madras. cotton woven in the coloured material. Used as a counterpane. In this and the previous example, the design towards the end is varied from the diamond shape or diaper pattern into zig-zag cross stripes, also in bleached cotton on the red ground, and an inch and a half of the extreme end is plain white, with a slight fringe. LOONGEES AND DHOTI 31 10. COTTON. DYED; BORDERS AND ENDS IHUMID. No. 58, Vol. II. and No. 130, Vol. IV., afford illustrations of printing brought to bear upon the production of garment pieces of the class now under notice. No. 58, 8 yards 9 inches long, 1 yard 10 inches wide, weighing 1 Ib. 11 oz. and costing 7*., is a badly dyed pale pink with narrow (i inch) figured borders in chocolate and black. At each end there are two cross stripes, one similar to the border, the other narrower and entirely chocolate colour. From Masulipatam, Madras. No. 130, though poor in execution, shows tolerably well how printing may accomplish a desired effect. The body is the dull but favourite red,* with squares of white spots. The borders (1^ inch wide) are black with white dotted pattern. There are two cross stripes at each end (one 3i and the other lj> inches) of the same pattern as the border, but separated to the extent of 6 inches by a pattern of flowered pines. Length, 2 yards 3 inches ; width, 1 yard 6 inches, weight 4i ounces, price 1*. From Surat, Bombay. We come now to the coloured cotton Loongees and Dhotees in which silk is introduced into the ends and borders in order to add to their attractiveness. In manufacturing this class of goods it is important that the borders should be stiff and thick, and that the weft should not appear through the silk. 11. COTTON. COLOURED OR DYED; SILK ENDS; NO BORDERS. Nos. 97 and 99, Vol III., are from Kohat, an important wool-producing district. The first is dark blue without a border, but plain and figured stripes, in coloured silk and cotton, are woven across each end to a depth of 9 inches. This piece is 10 yards long- by 37 inches wide, and weighs lib. 12 oz. No. 99 is of a similar character, except that across each end the stripes are of red and yellow silk and 2i inches wide. The dimensions of this sample are ; length 3 yards, width 1 yard 2 inches, and weight 1 Ib. 1 oz. These are examples of a garment which is extensively used by both sexes in the valleys west of Kohat. 12. COTTON. COLOURED OR DYED; SILK BORDERS; COLOURED COTTON ENDS. No. 103, is also from Kohat, and is of dark blue cotton, with a plain 1-inch stripe of red along the border. Each end is marked by a weft of white thread for a depth of 9 inches. The length is 4 yards 17 inches, width 1 yard 6 inches, weight 1 Ib. 15 oz. Commonly worn by the men of the Ayrore valley in the Kohat district. The body pattern of No. 108 is a small check of red and white on a green ground. It has a 2;|-inch stripe of crimson silk in the border, and the ends are varied by a narrow stripe pattern crossed by faint stripes of green. This piece, which is 2 yards 3 inches long by 1 yard 6 inches wide, and weighs 8 ounces, is from Surat in Bombay. The price in 1854 was 4*. The favourite reds, as a rule, arc dark ones. The Turkey reds and other variations of pure madder dye colours are extremely popular, not merely on account of the colour, but because that colour is a fast one a most important consideration with the native customer, owing to the very frequent washing of a rough character. 32 LOOM-MADE GARMENTS : 13. COTTON. PLAIN DYED; SILK BORDERS AND ENDS. Nos. 95 and 98, Vol. III., are the examples under this head. No. 95 is dark blue (a favourite colour) with l) 2 -inch border of dark crimson silk. About 42 inches of each end is decorated with plain and figured cross stripes, in silk and cotton, of various colours. This specimen is interesting, not merely because so considerable a portion of each end is ornamented, but also because the border is sewn on.* Length of piece, 5 yards 24 inches ; width, 1 yard 8 inches ; weight, 3 Ib. 4 oz. From Kohat. , No. 98 is a soft material worthy of notice. The pattern, which is a kind of diaper, in crimson, deserves attention. The border in this instance is a stripe of yellow silk (probably in imitation of gold lace) with margins of coloured cotton thread. Across each end is a coloured and figured stripe of silk and cotton 3^ inches wide. Length 3 yards, width 1 yard 8 inches, weight, lib. 8oz. It cost 11s. 6d. From Nurrapore, Sind. 14. COTTON. CHECK; SILK BORDERS AND ENDS. No. 96 is an example of a favourite pattern in the Punjab. The body pattern is a very small dark blue check, with a border formed by a 1\ inch stripe of red silk. In each end, for 15 inches, cross stripes of yellow, green, and crimson silks are introduced. Length 4 yards, width 1 yard 17 inches, and weight 1 Ib. b\ oz. Price 12s. From Leiah, in the Punjab. The pattern of No. 101, Vol. III. is a wide open check of narrow crimson lines, 1 inch apart, on a white ground. Border, a 2-inch stripe of crimson silk, with f-inch edging on the inner side of the Kutar pattern. Across each end, a 3f-inch stripe of crimson silk and white cotton. Length 3 yards 7 inches. Width 1 yard 8 inches. Weight llJ> ounces. Price in 1854, 4*. Wd. From Pind Dadun Khan. No. 104, Vol. III. This is a check pattern, formed by faint crimson lines T |ths of an inch apart on white ground. The border consists of a plain 2-inch crimson silk stripe, and across each end are a 4^-iuch stripe of crimson, green, and yellow silks, and four supple- mentary stripes of crimson and yellow silks J inch wide. Length 3 yards 22 inches, width 1 yard 16 inches, weight lib. 3oz. Price lls.Qd. From Lahore in the Punjab. 15. COTTON. PLAIN DYE; COTTON AND SILK BORDERS; GOLD ENDS. No. 56, Vol. II., is a further illustration of the method in which the two garment pieces, viz., the Loongee and Dhotee, are woven in one piece with a fag at the point of sepa- ration. The material is a rose-coloured muslin with a 1^-inch border, "Kutar" pattern. Moonga silk is introduced, apparently in imitation of gold thread. At each end is a f-inch cross stripe of gold and black thread. The length of the longer piece, or Loongee, is 5 yards 27 inches, and of the shorter, or Dhotee. 2 yards 18 inches, the width 1 yard 11 inches, and the weight lib. 2 ozs. From Rajahmundry, Madras, where, in 1854, the piece cost 14s. 6d. * This is occasionally done ; and borders made for the purpose might be so employed to a greater extent than they are. 2.-J COTTOOST SILIC. LOOXGEES AND D1IOTEES. 33 16. COTTON. PLAIN DrE; GOLD BOEDI.KS AND ENDS. No. 57, Vol. II., is a pink coarse muslin or light cotton fabric. The special border in this instance is of the Kutnr pattern already described. It is stamped in black on the piece, and is figured with gold thread. At each end are a f-inch and a ^Vinch stripe of dark brown, relieved by lines of gold thread. Length 8 yards 18 inches. Width 1 yard 11 inches. Weight 1 Ib. 3 oz. Price I/. 4*. 6d. From Madura, but purchased in Madras. 17- SILK AND COTTON CHECK. No. 61. Vol. II., is of a deep rose-coloured ground, in which is woven a faint check of yellow silk thread. The borders and ends are a modification of the main pattern. Manufactured by the Lubbays, and obtained from Mylapore, Madras. Length 3 yards 27 inches, width 1 yard 2 inches, weight 10 ounces. Price 4s. 6f/. 18. SILK AND COTTON. SILK BORDERS AND ENDS. Nos. 92 and 93, Vol. III., in this group, are worthy of attention as affording examples of a thickish material formed by a combination of silk and cotton. Vol. No. Description. UjBUDTCBMBti Weight Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Length. Width. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. 3. I/. III. 92 Light blue cotton weft, and silk warp, with i-incli 4 7.! 1 18 1 14 Hyderabad, coloured and figured stripes, inch apart. Sind. Border 2;j indies wide, laced pattern, in yellow and other coloured silks. At each end a broad (4f inches) cross silk stripe, one crimson and the other yellow. Edged with two 1^-inch figured stripes. m. 93 Coloured stripes, alternately ^ inch and ^ inch 4 1 20 2 Hyderabad, wide. 2J-inch border of blue and coloured Sind. silks, laced pattern. At each end a broad silk cross stri]>e of yellow on one side, and crimson on the other, edged with two 1^-inch figured stripes in coloured silks. Total width of cross stripes in ends, 8 inches. in. 94 Green, with . inch check of crimson silk. 4 inch 6 20 1 6 1 1 16 Runecpore, stripe of yellow silk at each end, and a faint Sind. stripe of the same colour in the border. 19. SILK AND COTTON. GOLD IN BORDERS AND ENDS. No. 86, Vol. III., Cotton weft and silk warp. Pattern, a white ground checked with crimson silk lines I inch apart. Rich laced border (l inch wide) in gold and blue and white thread. Deep (9J inch) cross stripes of gold and crimson at each end. Length 7 yards 15 inches. Width 1 yard 18 inches, weight 1 Ib. 1 oz. Price ll. 12s. From Jhelum, in the Punjab. LOOM-MADE GARMENTS : No. 218, Vol. VI., is a gauze-like fabric of green cotton warp and crimson silk weft. Border (jj inch wide) of crimson silk figured with gold lace. At each end a laced pattern of gold thread l inches wide. Length 3 yards 4| inches. Width, 1 yard 15 inches, weight, 9 ounces. Price 18s. From Bombay. 20. SILK. GOLD BORDERS AND ENDS. The specimens described in the following table afford some excellent examples of the extent to which ornamentation of the class of garments under notice is carried. These rich Loongees are only manufactured in a few places in India, and all of them display a remarkable similarity in the patterns of their borders and ends. Vol. Description. Measurement. Length. Width, Weight of Piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. III. in. 82 III. 84 Yellow corded silk. Rich laced border 2 inches wide, of gold and crimson and black silk. 71-inch cross stripes at each end of gold and crimson silk. Woven in half widths, each having the border on one side only. Two of such widths being sewn together, a complete garment with two borders is formed. Deep crimson ground, checked with narrow green lines ^ of an inch apart. Eich laced borders If inches wide in gold and coloured silks. Cross stripes at each end of green and crimson silk and gold. This example, unlike No. 81, is woven in one piece, with a border on each side. Plain, light cinnamon-coloured silk. Rich laced border (2 inches wide) of gold and coloured silks. Each end has also a 3-inch cross stripe of gold lace in the same colours, but of different pattern. Woven in half widths, two pieces sewn together forming one garment. yds. ins. 3 25 3 10 yds. ins. 29 Ibs. oz. s. d. 14 Bhawulpore. 1 16 4 3 2 94- Jhelum, Pun- jab. Bhawulpore. 111. 80 ueep crimson grounu, wiiii ii ciieciv 01 narrow white lines J-inch apart. Richly laced border O O~t J. 1O i i*y ( iy ly \ -LKMiure, JT un- jab. (2 inches wide) of gold and silver threads and coloured silks. Cross stripe 4| inches wide in gold and colours at each end. III. 87 Crimson ground. Border (If inches wide) of 3 18 1 14 1 H 400 Goodaspore, gold and blue. At each end a cross stripe, j Punjab. 2f inches wide, of gold and coloured cotton threads.* III. 89 Figured stripes alternately yellow and green, and 48 1 18 1 84 Bhawulpore. crimson and white. Richly laced 2-inch border of gold and coloured silks. At each end a 34-inch cross stripe, in design and material similar to border. III. 90 Deep red silk with small yellow check (6 lines to 7 1 14 1 13 260 Buttala, an inch). 2^-inch border of crimson silk, Goodaspore. crossed by ^-inch stripes of gold thread, 1-^inch apart. In 19 inches of each end cross stripes of crimson and green silks with gold. III. 91 Yellow silk, with small crimson check (six lines 7 5 1 20 ' 1 H 400 Buttala, to an inch). 2^-inch border of crimson silk, Goodaspore. crossed by ^-inch stripes of gold thread, ] % inches apart. Ends (20 inches) cross stripes of crimson, green, and yellow silk, and gold. * This peculiar use of gold and coloured cotton thread for the ornamentation of silk fabrics is very effective. LOOXGEES AND D1IOTEES, 35 21. SILK. GOLD AND SILVER FIGURED STRIPES. No. 88, Vol. III., is an example of a piece said to be suitable for a Loongee. The pattern, however, is more like that employed for trowser pieces. The specimen in question has neither borders nor ends, and to make it into a loongee, these would have to be added. From Bhawulpore.* Length, 5yds. 15 in.; width, 31 inches ; weight, 1 Ib. 3|oz. 22. SILK. SILVER ENDS ; SILK BORDERS. No. 83, Vol. III. Crimson checked by narrow green lines ; borders green with the Kutar pattern ; ends, for 18 inches, ornamented with cross stripes of green, yellow, black and silver. Length, 6yds. 24 ins. ; width, 1 yd. 14 ins. ; weight, 1 Ib. 1 oz. From Rawul Pindee, Punjab. 23. WOOL. VARIOUSLY ORNAMENTED. In the Table below will be found a description of the examples in which WOOL is the material employed. It will be observed that these have in the Table been grouped according to the mode in which their borders and ends are decorated. No. of Description. Measurement. Weight of piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. & s. tl. XVI. 628 '"Deep end (16 inches) formed by cross 6 12 30 1 11 Hyderabad, stripes of various colours and widths. Sind. XVI. 636 a i Large double line check of blue on plain 3 13 28 4 Kooloo, fa uncoloured ground. 3 inches of end obtained 3} dark crimson, with blue and white from cross stripes. Kangra. XVI. 642 | Plain, uncoloured. Close to end a T 4 ff inch 3 19 1 16 3 4 053 Beejapoor. [_ coloured stripe. XVII. 644 ^Plain, uncoloured, coarse texture. J-inch 3 1 14 2 5 3 7 Bangalore, 00 stripe of yellow in border. Fringed sent from s y. end, with narrow cross line of yellow. Madras. W Sewn together in centre to form com- g plete loongee. XVIII 677 Red ground, with small yellow check ; 5 9 1 34 2 540 Cashmere. 00 border (^-inch wide) is a long stripe of a flowered pattern, woven in coloured wools and silk, sewn on to the garment p piece. A similar stripe is inserted 3 across the end of the loongee. XVI. 637 3 Crimson, with 1-inch stripe in border of 3 1 14 2 4 030 Bangalore, H uncoloured cotton. Two sewn together sent from form one garment piece. Madras. * The specimens from Bhawulpore were presented by the Nawab, and their cost is consequently unknown. As already stated, it would not be safe in any instance to regard the prices attached to the articles as the present value. They merely represent the amount known to have been paid for them when they were bought in 1854. (3428.) H 36 LOOM-MADE GARMENTS: No. of Description. Measurement. Weight of piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. & s. d. XVIII 687 Tlain uncoloured material. Border (1^ 3 6 1 9 1 2 1 14 Lahore. inch wide) consisting of a 1^-inch stripe of green silk, and an inner f-inch silk stripe of crimson, with yellow centre. Also called a " Dhoosa," or wrapper. Single piece. XVIII 688 Plain, dark, uncoloured material. Border 3 4 1 17 1 121 1 14 Lahore. (2 inches wide) consisting of a 1^-inch stripe of crimson silk, and a T *j-inch inner silk stripe of white with green centre. Woven in two lengths with M H fag between. Single piece. xvin. 689 Q n Plain, light drab, uncoloured material. 3 14 1 9 i H 1 6 Lahore. < Border, 1J inches wide, of crimson X silk, plain. Woven in two lengths with 3 fag between. XVIH. 690 QQ Plain, uncoloured, brown material. 2 30 1 6 141 1 6 Lahore. Border, If inches wide, consisting of an inch stripe of crimson silk, and an inner f-inch silk stripe of white and green. xvm. 691 Plain, uncoloured, white material. 3 5 1 12 1 5i 1 15 Lahore. Border (1^ inches wide), consisting of lg inch stripe of green silk, and a ^-inch strips of crimson and yellow silk " in the inner side. Ahout XVII. 652 g ("Plain, dark grey body. Border, 1 J-inch 5 12 25 3 14 040 Hyderabad K stripe in crimson, green and yellow Sind. silks. Across end a 3-inch stripe with , figured centre in crimson, yellow and 3 ' green coloured silks. Used for body 2q clothing in cold weather, also for bed M covers and saddle-cloths. Sewn to- 3 & gether in centre to form one garment. No. 676, Vol. XVIII., from Cashmere, is an example of a woollen Loongee with silk and silver borders. The colour is orange yellow, and the pattern a small diaper. The borders, which are of the same pattern, have a silver thread warp. They are upwards of 5 inches in width, and have green silk and woollen stripes on either side, with an additional stripe of green silk between them and the extreme edge of the piece.* This concludes what we have to say of the important class of Loongees and Pitamburs, and of Loongees and Dhotees manufactured in one piece. * The dimensions, weight, &c., of this garment piece are unknown, as it came to hand in an uncomplete state. For this reason also, in cutting it up for insertion in the collection under description, it was found possible to show the border in a certain number only of the examples, and even these are arranged across the page, instead of vertically, as usual. LOOXGEES A>'D DHOTEES. 37 B. DHOTEES ; SINGLE. Of the Dhotccs or loin-cloths manufactured separately a brief notice will suffice, the general character of this garment having already been pointed out. In these there is not so much room for variety as in the case of the articles employed for the protection or adornment of the upper portions of the person. In a garment, indeed, so much of which is concealed in consequence of the mode of wearing it, the opportunity for ornamentation is limited. The use of such a material as metal would be apt to interfere with the comfort of the wearer. The necessity for its being frequently washed is, perhaps, the principal reason for avoiding much decoration. The following table comprehends the whole of the examples of Dhotees uncombined with Loongees which we have considered it necessary to give. The examples from Santipore, Nos. 289, 290, and 291, Vol. VIIL, are perhaps the most worthy of attention. Nos. 106 and 107, Vol. III., are similar to many of the loongees in having silk borders, the chief difference being, that the end pattern in the dhotee is reduced to a few cross stripes. No. 124, Vol. IV., received from Surat, shows the kind of article which is occasionally manufactured in England for export, and No. 123 illustrates a yellowish colour which would, in some districts, prove an attraction if adopted for grey shirtings. Vol. No. Description. Measurement. Weight of piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. s. d. IIL 106 Cotton, plain. Border, 4-inch figured crimson 3 22 1 8 11$ 050 Surat, silk stripe. Three faint red cotton stripes Bombay. across each end. IIL 107 Cotton, plain. Border, 2^-inch stripe, chiefly 4 6 1 2 o i;;i 040 Surat, of crimson silk. Faintly marked 1 inch Bombay. stripe of red across each end. IV. 124 Cotton, plain, with ^-inch coloured stripe woven 3 30 34 12$ 1 5 Surat, in border. Three narrow red lines across Bombay. each end. IV. 123 Cotton, plain. 1-inch red border, figured 421 1 1 12$ 026 Calcutta. pattern, printed. 2-inch figured stripe across principal end, and an inch stripe across the opposite end ; both of same cha- racter as the border. rv. 128 Muslin, bleached. Blue flowered pattern. 3 1 6^ Kathaman- Border marked merely by two slight lines doo, Nepal. of blue. At each end broad cross stripes and adaptation of body pattern, with pine pattern added.* VIII. 289 Santipore Dhotee. Light texture. f-inch 5 32 1 9 5 056 Santipore, border, figured iu red cotton and Tussah Calcutta. silk, with two inner stripes woven in the plain material. Red stripes across end. vni. 290 Santipore Dhotee. Light texture, f-inch 4 18 32 5 056 Santipore, figured border, woven in red and blue thread, Calcutta. with small inner stripe woven in the plain material. 2$-inch figured stripe in yellow, red, and blue thread across one end, and across the other a -inch blue stripe. vm. 291 Santipore Dhotee. Light texture. One border 5 20 1 10 6 056 Santipore, orange and blue, and the other crimson and Calcutta. blue. Figured, $ inch wide. * It has not been possible to cut the original piece so as to show the pine pattern in every sample. H 2 38 LOOM- MADE GARMENTS : KTJMMERBTJNDS. III. KUMMERBUNDS. The Kummerbund* literally, waist-band or sash, as a loom-made article of male attire, has next to be considered. It is chiefly used by the Mahomedans, the manner in which the dhotee is worn by the Hindus rendering it less necessary in their case. Both Hindus and Mahomedans, of the richer classes, however, when in full dress almost invariably use it. When used, as it often is, for effect, it is narrow ; sometimes, however, it is of considerable width and bulk. Figures 55 and 57, PL VIII., illustrate the manner in which it is worn. In Northern India these sashes are almost always made of wool and are of different degrees of fineness. Muslin textures, however, are used elsewhere. Ornamentation, when adopted, is confined to the ends, into which coloured threads of various kinds, and occasionally gold, are introduced. The examples given of this class of manufactures are all woollen. They show the quality of material used, the length of the sash, &c., but afford no remarkable illustrations of pattern ; it is, however, thought that there is scope for the advantageous introduction of ornament into the ends of such articles. No. of Measurement. Place of Description. Weight of piece. Cost. Manufacture, or where Vol. Sample. Length. Width. obtained. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. s. d. XVI. 629 Waistbaml of a male Beloochee. Red. Coarse 5 10 1 71 Beloochistan. and narrow. Plain. XVI. 630 Plain, uncoloured. Coarse, but strong texture. 6 33 12 1 7 Nepal. XVI. 632 Plain, uncoloured. - 5 18 9i 1 Thibet. XVI. 633 Fair quality, indifferent colour. A red stripe, 3 3 12" 2 9 Darjeeling. 1 inch wide, across end. XVI. 635 Plain, coarse material, with, at 9 inches from 5 18 15 2 2 Kangra. end, a double line stripe of red. * Like most Indian terms, which have passed into use as English, this word is spelt in a variety of ways, as Kumerbund, Kamarband, Cummerbund, &c. 39 LOOM-MADE ARTICLES OF FEMALE ATTIRE. I. SAREES. The chief article of female attire in India consists of a long scarf, called a Saree, which both envelopes the body and acts as a covering to the head. It is the common dress of the Hindu women of all ranks, as well as that of a large proportion of Mahomedans. By the Hindus of the northern provinces of India it is occasionally worn along with the petticoat of the Mahomedan. This combination, however, is rare, and, indeed, amongst the poorer classes, especially during the hot weather, the Saree is the only article of dress employed. The mode of wearing the Saree is very much the same all over India, although, of course, the amplitude of its folds, and the quality of the material used, vary with the social position of the women. As usually worn, one end is passed twice round the waist, the upper border tied in a strong knot, and allowed to fall in graceful folds to the ankle, thus forming a sort of petticoat or skirt a portion of one leg being only partially concealed by the Hindu. The other end is passed in front across the left arm and shoulder, one edge being brought over the top of the head. It is then allowed to fall behind and over the right shoulder and arm. In PL V. and VI. will be found several illustrations of the manner of wearing the Saree. The Brahmin lady, No. 37, PI. VI., shows its application when it forms almost the complete Hindu clothing ; fig. 34, PI. V., a photograph from an imperfect painting on talc,* shows an instance in which the Saree has been employed to produce the full effect of a petticoat of moderate dimensions. The Mahratta costume of the well-known and celebrated lady the Begum of Bhopal as represented to the left in No. 35, PI. VI. (and in three other groups in the same Plate) is likewise worthy of attention. The sitting figures in groupf 27, PI. V., represent the mode of adjusting a Saree of less ample dimensions when used by women employed in out-door labour the end, which falls in front, being passed between the legs, and tucked in behind, forming as it were drawers reaching to the knee. In addition to the petticoat or trowser the Mahomedan women in many parts of Northern India use, instead of the Saree, the Boorka or sheet veil, which consists of a covering thrown over the head, with a networked space opposite the eyes, and which is voluminous enough to conceal almost the whole person. In Burmah the principal article of female dress consists of a square piece of cloth worn over the back and across the breast, one end being secured by thrusting it under the fold which comes over the bosom. * Introduced principally for the purpose of showing the long ornamental end of the Saree, which, however, is represented as having been brought over the right instead of the left shoulder and side of head. f Reproduced from a photograph (by Johnson) of women employed in the construction of the railway, near Bombay. 40 LOOM-MADE GARMENTS : With respect to the materials of which the Saree is made, and the character of its texture, a few general remarks may here be made. As to material, cotton naturally occupies the first place, then mixtures of cotton and silk, and lastly, silk itself. There are no examples given in which wool has been employed, but some of the remarks already made, respecting the introduction of that fibre into fabrics suited for wear in India during the cold season, should be kept in view by the manufacturer, being as applicable to Sarees as to Loongees. Just as in the case of the Loongees and Dhotees, attention must be paid to the texture of the fabric employed. This requires to be loose and soft, in order to be agreeable to the wearer, and to allow the garment to fall more gracefully into shape. Indeed, during the hot season, it would be almost impossible to wear a cloth of cotton or silk in the manner the native women of India do, unless it were of open texture and soft and pliable. With respect to the way in which these long scarfs are embellished by the introduction of borders, &c., we shall find the same variety in the character of the decoration, and the same subordination of ornament to function as in the case of Loongees. Sarees, made in separate pieces of the proper length, have, almost invariably, ornamental borders of some sort or other ; and one end, that exposed to view, has care devoted to its adornment, as in the case of the turban-pieces. The opposite end, being worn next to the body and out of sight, is left nearly plain. The number of ways in which effect is produced, by the variety of materials and patterns employed to form the borders and ends, will be seen by referring to the descriptions of the groups which follow. In the note below will be found some terms which have been applied in different parts of India to the Saree or to modifications of it, but the name of Saree is that which is now most commonly employed.* We now come to the consideration of the special illustrations of this class of loom-made garments. * Boonnee. From Boonna to weave. This cloth is made either with a red or black border. The former is worn by Hindu and the latter by Mahomedan women. Dimensions 10 yards by 1 yard. (Cotton manufacture of Dacca, p. 62.) Kilnya. So called when the piece of cloth is woven so that " two breadths must be stitched together to make one wrapper." {Buchanan in Martin's " Eastern India," Vol. II., p. 93.) Dhoti. In Buchanan's time, in Goruckpore, the wrapper worn by women, when of full size, was called dhoti a term which in Behar and Bengal is confined to the male dress, where also the appellation Sari for the female wrapper was used. {Buchanan in Martin's " Eastern India," Vol. II., p. 93.) Chadur, Choddur, Chudder. Literally a sheet used as a covering by Mahomedan women, but it is also applied to the plain woollen shawls manufactured at Umritsur and Eampore. Sadhie is a name used for the Saree in the Mahratta country. Chundur Kala, when the Saree is of one colour only, black or red. Putta. A kind of holiday cloth of the Saree class, worn in Dharwar by children at weddings, &c. It is of plain cotton or of silk embroidered according to the station of the wearer. Sulleedar. A silk saree worn by women at festivals in Dharwar. Karchori. A Parsee lady's dress, gold embroidered, of the Saree class. Tamieng. A saree worn by Burmese women. COST1J M E- .'.: ::: -. Sfv SAKEES. 41 1. COTTON. COTTON BORDERS AND ENDS. Of the specimens dealt with in the subjoined table, No. 188, Vol. V. is a good example of an open-textured material, of a common quality, and Nos. 221 and 228, Vol. VI., afford instances in which, although the thread is undyed, its arrangement is made to produce a striped appearance. Nos. 193, 194, 193) Vol. V., are of almost the coarsest kind of fabric made, and show that the special ornamentation even of these is a matter which receives attention. No. of Description. Measurement. Weight of piece. Cost Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. s. ,1. V. 188 Cotton. Open texture. H-inch border in 8 27 1 7 1 62 030 Ooppaddy. red and yellow thread, with slight Ivuttir Bought in pattern on inner edge. /. principal end, Madras. one 2^-inch and one ^-inea cross stripe in deep red with yellow lines. The opposite end marked only by a ^-inch cross stripe in red thread. Good example of a common texture. V. 193 Cotton, coarse, unbleached. Border, a faint 3 1 1 3 1 Coimbatore. red line (! inch wide) near edge. The Bought in principal end ornamented with a 2-inch Madras. crimson cross stripe, two narrower stripes of same colour, and nearer end a J-inch cross stripe of blue. Opposite end also marked by two cross stripes of crimson, and one of blue. Used by the Burghers. V. 194 Cotton, coarse, unbleached. Border, a faint 3 1 13 1 6 Bekul in brown stripe near edge. Principal end Canara. marked by two narrow cross stripes of reddish brownthreads. A stripe of similar character in opposite end. V. 195 Cotton, common material, unbleached. Bor- 6 1 1 7 1 9 Congeveram. der, -inch chocolate coloured stripe along Bought in edge. One 1\ inch and one \ inch red Madras. and yellow stripe across the principal end. At opposite end a narrow stripe of red. VI. 221 Cotton. Light texture, bleached. 1-inch 4 22 1 22 11 030 Calcutta. stripes woven in the material. Border, a 1^-inch stripe of crimson cotton thread. In principal end a 1^-incb cross stripe of crimson thread in the weft. Opposite end marked by a -^-inch cross stripe of blue thread. Borders of different colours ; one red, and the other blue. VI. 227 Cotton. Light texture. White and yellow 4 27 1 3 11 030 Calcutta. stripes (1 inch wide) woven in body of garment. 11-inch border of red cotton, with pattern figured in white thread. In each end a ^-inch cross stripe of crimson thread near the edge. VI. 228 Cotton. Light texture. White, with coloured 4 32 1 2 12 030 Calcutta. stripes woven in the body of the garment \ inch wide and ^ inch apart. 1^-inch border, red centre, dark blue and red striped edges. Principal end, for about 17 inches, is of red thread in the weft. At the opposite end a 1-inch faint cross stripe in blue and red thread. vni. 287 Plain white bleached Muslin called Chunder- 4 18 1 4* 6 2 7J Calcutta. kora. Slight border. vni. 288 Ditto, ditto, ditto, ditto. 2 33 1 10 3 020 Calcutta. 42 LOOM-MADE GARMENTS: 2. COTTON (MUSLIN). GOLD END. The specimens of Sarees, Nos. 283, 284, 285, Vol. VIII., form a remarkable contrast to the preceding ones. They have no borders, and have been dealt with as a class on account of the special ornamentation of their ends, into each of which a stripe of gold about an inch wide had been inserted.* They are from Chundeyree, and afford excellent examples of the beautiful fabrics for which that old seat of native manufacture has been so long and so justly celebrated.f The specimens are unbleached ; No. 284 is a plain material ; No. 283 is striped ; and No. 285 is chequered in the loom. Each has a stripe of gold, about an inch wide, at one end. The lengths and widths of Nos. 283 and 284 are the same, viz., 14 yards and 30g inches respectively, but 285 is an inch more each way. No. 283 weighs lOf ounces, and the other two each 10^ ounces. The cost of each, in 1854, was the same, viz., ll. 13s. Qd. Although silk is occasionally used to form borders and ends to plain cotton materials, no examples occur in the series. 3. COTTON (MUSLIN). COLOURED COTTON BORDERS ; COLOURED COTTON AND GOLD IN ENDS. No. 189, Vol. V. A plain and rather coarse muslin. Border (2| inches) of red and yellow cotton stripes, with a narrow line of same, ^ inch from inner edge. In principal end a 2^-inch cross stripe of red cotton with -| inch centre of gold thread. Between this main cross stripe and narrower ones of the same colour, the material is dotted with spots in black thread. Secondary end marked merely by a few threads of red cotton. Length of piece, 8 yards 18 inches; width, 1 yard 9 inches; weight, 1 Ib. 4 oz. ; cost 6*. Qd. Woven at Gangam; bought in Madras. 4. COTTON. SILK BORDERS ; SILK AND GOLD IN END. Example No. 173, Vol. V. A plain, light material; warp of unbleached thread, weft tinged with blue. Border, 1J inch wide, of coloured cotton and crimson and yellow silk. 8i- inches of principal end decorated with 2^-inch cross stripe of gold thread, and several figured stripes of coloured thread and crimson silk. Opposite end marked only by a narrow cross stripe of coloured thread. From Condapore, S. Canara, Madras. Length of piece, 7 yards ; width, 1 yard ; weight, 1 Ib. 3 oz. ; cost 10*. 5. COTTON. COLOURED THREAD ; COTTON BORDERS. In this group there are no special end patterns, the character of the border stripes rendering these, perhaps, as a matter of taste less necessary. * Although grouped with the Sarees these specimens more strictly speaking come under the denomination of piece-goods it being a by no means uncommon custom to ornament the ends of the finer kinds with the flattened gold and silver wire called badla. The wire in such cases is not woven into the fabric, but is put in with the needle a special class of workmen being employed for the purpose. f As in the case of Dacca, the manufacture of these prized cloths at Chuudeyree has of late been restricted to the fulfilment of occasional orders. The weavers are described as working in underground workshops, to secure a greater uniformity of moisture in the air, which in the North-Western provinces is usually very dry. The cotton anciently used in the manufacture of the Chundeyree muslins is stated to have been brought from Oomrawuttee, in Berar ; and the thread, when of fine quality, was sold for its weight in silver. We are informed by Captain Meadows Taylor that a similar class of yarn is spun in rooms or cellars carefully closed and with the floors kept constantly watered, at Nandair, Dhunwarum, Narainpett, and other places near Hydrabad in the Deccan. SAREES. 43 No. 226, Vol. VI., is an example of one border that allowed to come most prominently into sight being made considerably wider than the other. No. of Description. MeasuremcMil. Weight of piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample Length. Width. yds. ins. \ ds. ins. Ibs. ox. .v. i Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. s. d. V. 163 Chock of dark blue cotton and yellow silk. 70 10 1 5 046 .Madras. Border (3 inch) formed l>y modification of body pattern. At each end cross stripes of silk, same as that in check. VI. 211 Dark blue cotton striped with lines of fine 7 32 1 .-> 1 l:U 11 Belgaum, yellow silk (9 to the inch) border (2 inch) Bombay. of yellow and crimson silk. Principal end (12^ inches) yellow silk, with two stripes of white silk, each f-inch wide. Opposite cud marked only by a cross stripe of yellow silk ^-inch wide. A favourite style of pattern. VI. 214 Dark blue cotton, checked by lines of gold- 8 1 6 1 14 1 Bolgaum, coloured silk (8 to the inch in warp, 6 to the Bombay. inch in weft.) Border (44-inch) of crimson with yellow silk at margin. Principal end (18 inches) of rich orange-coloured silk, with two cross stripes of white silk(l inch wide.) Opposite end marked by a 2-inch cross stripe of yellow silk. VI. 219 Yellow silk and dark blue cotton stripe. Borders 7 27 1 9 2 4 1 8 Belgaum, (2^-inches wide) of crimson silk, with figured Bombay. lines in white and yellow silk. The principal end (26 inches) consists entirely of crimson silk, with two 1^-inch cross stripes in white silk ; the blue cotton and yellow silk of the warp being discontinued to make room for the new warp threads of crimson silk. Opposite end marked by a -inch stripe of crimson across the main pattern. 15. COTTON AND SILK. SILK BORDERS; SILK AND GOLD IN END. Example No. 172, Vol. V., manufactured at Trichinopoly, but bought in Madras. Dark crimson warp of silk ; blue cotton weft ; figured with small white flower. Border white silk in imitation of silver lace. At principal end a stripe of gold thread with yellow and red silk stripes at intervals. The secondary end has two stripes of yellow silk. Length of piece, 7| yards ; width, 1 yd. 5 ins. ; weight, 1 Ib. 7 oz. ; cost, ll. Is. Qd. 16. COTTON AND SILK. GOLD IN BORDERS AND IN END. Example No. 162, Vol. V., made at Tanjore, bought in Madras. Dark crimson ; striped with silk of a golden-coloured yellow. Gold border extends for 2 yards from the end, the rest being silk. Principal end (4 inches) gold, flowered with coloured silks. Length, 9 yards ; width, 1 yd. 2 ins. ; weight, 1 Ib. 3 oz. ; cost, ll. 5s. Qd. 50 LOOM-MADE GARMENTS 17- SILK AND COTTON, SILK BORDERS. In this and the three following groups, the silk predominates over the cotton, so that the fabric has the appearance of being almost entirely silk. No. 209, Vol. VI., from Benares, warp of crimson and yellow silk in stripes. Weft of dark blue cotton. Striped border of coloured silks. This fabric and pattern is in common use among the Hindus. The sample has no end ornament as is usual, but one in keeping with the piece itself might be added'with advantage. Length, 9 yards 26 inches ; width, 30 inches ; weight, 1 Ib. 9i 6z. 18. SILK AND COTTON. SILK BORDERS; SILK AND GOLD IN END. No. 206, Vol. VI., from Nagpore, Berar, is of bright yellow silk, checked with blue and white cotton. Border of crimson silk, with three figured stripes in green, white and yellow silks. Principal end of coloured silk and cotton thread, with two 1^-inch and two ^-inch stripes of gold thread. Length of^iece, 8 yards 32 inches ; width, 1 yard 9 i inches ; weight, 1 Ib. 7oz. ; cost, 21. 2s. 19. SILK AND COTTON. GOLD IN BORDERS ; GOLD IN END. No. 207, Vol. VI., from Nagpore, Berar, is a gauze-like material, and the warp consists of yellow and dark crimson silk. Weft, yellow silk and dark crimson coloured cotton. The borders, crimson silk with gold flowered pattern. In principal end two stripes of gold thread. In opposite end two stripes of white cotton thread. Length, 9 yards 8 inches ; width, 1 yard 9 inches; weight, 1 Ib. 3^oz. ; cost, 21. 18s. 20. SILK. SILK BORDERS AND END. This group is represented by No. 174, Vol. V., and No. 210, Vol v VI. The former comes from Tanjore, Madras, and is of a deep crimson silk checked with white silk. The borders are 7|- inches wide, 3 inches being woven in silk in imitation of gold and silver lace, the rest consisting of coloured and figured stripes. The figured stripes at the principal end in this instance extend only to the inner edge of the border which runs through the whole length of the piece. These stripes are green and white, and orange and white alternately, with two rows of small pines in white floss silk. Rather more than a yard of the secondary end consists of coarse yellow silk, with stripes of crimson and white. Length of piece, 8 yards ; width, 1 yard 3 inches ; weight, 1 Ib. 6 oz. ; and cost \l. 5s. No. 210, Vol. VI., from Belgaum, in Bombay, is of yellow silk, striped with crimson. The border is of crimson silk, figured with stripes of yellow, white and crimson. One green ' *s I^TJSLHsTS, SXLIC, &c. \ SAIIKES. 51 line in the border is of cotton. Principal end marked by two li-inch cross stripes of white silk. Length, 7 yards 30 inches; width, 1 yard 6 inches; weight, 1 Ib. 15 oz. ; cost, \l. Qs. 21. SILK. SILK ENDS ; NO BORDERS. The examples of this description of garment are included in the following table and all come from Burnmh. The patterns and character of the manufacture arc peculiar and differ from most of the productions of India proper. The silk used appears to be of fair quality and to be well dyed. Vol. Sample. Description. Measurement. Weight of piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. s. il. XIV. 543 Silk, with angulated stripes figured in orange, 8 28 24!,- 1 1} Pegu. white, yellow, green, and crimson. Woven in plain stripes at centre and ends, the piece being cut in two and sewn together at sides to form garment. XIV. 544 Silk. Pattern (somewhat similar to, but less 8 28 251 1 2i Pegu. elaborate than last-named example) in orange, yellow, white, green, and red, on a dark green ground. About 22 inches of principal end and 11 inches of opposite end, woven in plain stripes of colours same as in body pattern, last example. XIV. 545 Silk. Pattern, angulated stripes figured in 8 30 25 1 4 Pegu. green, yellow, and crimson, on a white ground, very similar in character to the figure of 543, 544. About 20 inches of the principal end, and 15 of opposite end woven in plain coloured stripes. XIV. 547 Silk. Plain white, green, and crimson 9 24 1 131 Pegu. stripes. In about 19 inches of end broad cross stripes of white and green 2 inches wide. 22. SILK. SILK BORDERS ; GOLD IN END. Measurement. Place of Vol. Sample. Description. Weight of piece. Cost. Manufacture, or where Length. Width. obtained. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. a. d. V. 164 White, figured check towards principal end but 8 18 1 12 1 15 3 10 4 Berhampore, plain at opposite one. Border (2| inches) of Gangam, red and yellow silks with " Kutar " pattern in Madras. the inner edge. In principal end (23 inches) cross stripes of crimson figured silk with yellow silk and gold thread ; terminating with one gold laced stripe 2 inches wide, and one 2^-inch stripe of crimson figured silk and gold. At opposite end a 1^-inch cross stripe of crimson silk and a double line of same . colour nearer end. (3428.) 52 LOOM-MADE GARMENTS Vol. Sample. Description. Measurement. Weight of piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Length. Breadth. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. s. d. V. 175 Deep crimson silk. Large check pattern 8 1 7 1 4 1 10 Combaconum, formed by small white silk flashed spots in Madras. diagonal rows 1-| inch apart. The borders (2f inches) are woven in coloured silks of a - gold and silver lace pattern. In the principal end (29 inches) is a series of figured cross stripes in white, green, and yellow silk with two rows of white silk flashed spots of an arrow-headed shape. There are also two stripes of gold on crimson within 4 inches of end. The opposite end is plain deep crimson silk of inferior quality with a single ^-inch cross stripe of yellow. VI. 205 Yellow and green silk check small. Border 8 29 1 12| 1 41 3 10 Nagpore, (6^ inches) of crimson silk, with yellow, Berar. green, and white figured stripes. In principal end (28 inches) the weft stripes of the check are discontinued, and narrow cross stripes of green introduced at intervals of ! inches, except in extreme end which consists of a 9-inch stripe of gold thread with flowered edges of coloured silks. Opposite end marked for 5 inches by crimson cross stripes and by modification of check pattern. VI. 212. Green, striped with crimson. Border (3 inches) 9 16 1 6 2 380 Belgaum, of crimson silk figured with white silk stripes. Bombay. Principal end (19 inches) plain crimson silk, / with two 2^-inch cross stripes of gold thread, and, nearer end, a ^-inch gold stripe. To form this end, crimson is substituted for the green of the warp as well as for the weft. Opposite end (15 inches) marked by modifica- tion of main pattern. XXIII. SILK. GOLD BORDERS; GOLD IN END. No. 161, Vol. V., from Tanjore, Madras, is a gauze material, checked in yellow and crimson. A laced border (5f inches wide) of gold thread and coloured silks, extends only seven feet down the piece, the rest of the saree being plain silk. At the principal end there is a broad stripe of gold thread, with four large flowered figures (pine shaped) in coloured silks in it, and there are six smaller but similar figures in an inner stripe. Length, 8 yards 32 inches ; width, 1 yard 7 inches ; weight, 1 Ib. 8f oz. ; piice 41. 10s. KERCHIEFS. 53 II. KERCHIEFS FOR HEAD AND SHOULDERS. Although, as already described, the end of the saree is made to act as a covering for the head, we find in many instances that kerchiefs are specially used for this purpose. Fig. 28, PI. V., affords an illustration of the manner in which these are occasionally worn, fastened like a turban with one end falling loose behind. Sometimes they are worn shawl fashion, falling over the shoulders as shown on the female No. 26, PI. V. The details given in the table below indicate the character of some of the articles thus employed. Vol. Sample. Description. Measurement. W eight of piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Length. Breadth. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. *. dark brown, with supplemental check of red. Border on each side formed by modi- fication of pattern. Eight woven in :i piece. The glaze obtained by rubbing the surface of the fabric with a chank shelL X. 364 Cotton. White and black check. Borders 1 1 3J 7 \Trtntn formed by modification of pattern. Eight woven in a piece. Like last sample, glazed by means of a chank shell. v enta- > pollam, Mildru.-. X. 365 Cotton. Check pattern in red, white, and 1 1 31 7 blue. Borders formed by modification of main pattern. G-lazed by rubbing with a chank shell, as in two previous samples. X. 366 Cotton. Check pattern, white ground with 1 1 3 1 1| dark blue shaded stripes. Borders formed by modification of main pattern. Glazed by rubbing with a chank shell 1st size. Large size XII. 461 Cotton. Plain with J-inch stripe of red 27 27 1 6 Cundapore, thread in border. Made in two sizes. 2d size. Cauara, 23 23 of eight of eight xn. 462 Cotton. (Plain bleached Calico) with a 29 29 1 1 046 Miisulipatum, f-inch flowered border printed in red and Madras. black. K 2 54 PIECE GOODS. PIECE-GOODS. We have now to consider the varieties of piece-goods employed in the manufacture of made-up articles of dress. The needle is required for the conversion into clothing of a large proportion of the fabrics now to be described; but it must be kept in mind that a proportion by no means insignificant is used for Loongees, Dhotees, and Sarees that is for the scarf-like garments already described by being simply cut to the proper lengths, in a few instances ornamental borders and ends being sewed on.* MADE-UP GARMENTS. The articles of attire which we have now to notice are those in which the material has been made to assume various shapes, more in accordance with our European notions of clothing. We shall in the first instance refer to made-up head-dresses. Commercially speaking, however, these are not important, the quantity of material required for their manufacture being but small. Although the loom-made turban already described forms an important piece of native dress, it does not constitute the only head-dress of the people. On the contrary, among a population comprising innumerable tribes and castes, it may naturally be expected that coverings for the head will be found of every variety of material, form, and ornamentation, some elegant and some perhaps almost grotesque. 1. MADE-UP HEAD-DRESSES. The skull-cap, made up from various materials, is a common form of head-dress, and is often worn temporarily as a substitute for the more elaborate turban. Many of the Brahmins in Bhagulpore and also in the South of India, wear a cap of dyed cotton cloth, which sits close to the head and descends with two flaps over the ears ; an ugly looking affair, which however, is stated to be the original head-dress of the sacred order.f Mahomedans sometimes wear the Taj, a small conical cap of muslin ; and the Brahmins of Sind use the Arak-cliin, an article of the smoking-cap style, made of white or coloured cotton, and also the Col, a cap lined with cotton, with a knob on the top. In the de- coration of the skull-cap and smoking-cap forms of head-dress, the Sind Embroiderers produce very effective and tasteful designs, worked in gold, silver, or coloured floss silks, on cloth or velvet ; while in Cashmere and Loodianah the shawl pattern and shawl material are often employed. The most gorgeous form of head-dress known in India is probably the bulky Topee, formed entirely of gold and silver cloth, and adorned with precious stones. These are made by the Embroiderers of Lucknow, Delhi, and Benares, and are worn only by natives of the highest rank, forming a portion of the Dress of Honour which is sometimes presented to persons of distinction by the princes of native courts. * Sewing and embroidering in India is chiefly practised by men, and these in the Northern provinces are mostly Mahomedans, the larger demand on the part of the people of that persuasion for this class of articles having naturally led to their greater expertness as workmen. In the Central and Southern provinces, however, they are nearly exclusively Hindus. t Buchanan in Martin's " Eastern India." Vol. II. p. 93. MADE-VP (iAUMEXTS. Among the examples of piece goods in this work are classed certain specimens of chintzc--. with a peculiar dotted pattern. These are used in making up the mitre-shaped hat of the Parsee, a form of turban frequently recognisable in the busy quarters of London. This peculiar head-dress is made of pasteboard, or other similar stiff and light material, upon which the chintz is stretched and fastened. The Si/i(tt< Topee is a cylinder, like an inverted hat, with the brim at the top, and is produced in a variety of colours. The Moplas of Malabar wear a stiff cap made of twisted silk thread, or of pasteboard, and around this a Rumal (or shawl kerchief) is sometimes wound. Fur caps are also occasionally worn in cold weather, in lieu of the turban or other lighter head-dress Mahomedan gentlemen using embroidered otter skin (Sumber-topi), and Persians the soft black lambskin of Bokhara. Wool and felt are used in the North and North \V The Guddees, in the Transutlej Division, wear a peculiar conical cap of wool, with long flaps to protect the ears, the front being often decorated with dried flowers, gay feathers, or red seeds threaded like strings of beads. At Simla, the Kunyts wear felt hats and caps, which are sometimes rendered more attractive by the addition of coloured cloth.* As we have already stated, as a rule, there is no special or made-up head-dress in use among the women of Hindustan, the end of the Saree or a kerchief being ordinarily employed as a covering for the head. To this, however, there are exceptions, the embroidered skull-cap being occasionally used ; whilst in some less civilised parts of the country, as in Kooloo for instance, we find the ladies wearing a small quilted cap of gay chintz, which is adorned with broad chains of berries, beads, and coarse turquoises, and amulets of enamel or china work. This elaborate combination, like the European bonnet of the present day, helps to keep in its place the back hair which the owner intertwines with a roll of wool. 2. MADE-UP BODY CLOTHING. Of articles coming under this head a good general notion will be acquired by examining the illustrations contained in this work. In Plates I., II., III., IV. the made-up articles shown are (with one exception, No. PI. IV.), almost entirely of cotton. In Plate VII. (facing p. 140) coarser woollen fabrics and skins are the materials cm- ployed ; -whilst in PI. VIII. (facing p. 118) we find garments made of the finer woollen cloths, and of Kincobl or gold brocade. To the Cashmere shawls which are worn with these brocades, special reference will elsewhere be made. The standing figure to the left of the centre group No. 4, PI. I. (facing p. 14), and that to the right, No. IS, PI. III. (facing p. 22), afford examples of the short Hindu jacket with long, loose sleeves the material of both is ordinary calico, the second being quilted for use during the cold season. It will be observed that in the instance in which the front of the jacket is in view the fastening is on the right side. The Hindu fastens his jacket on the right side, while the Mahomedan fastens his on the left, and the two nationalities may almost invariably * The chief of the Kirghiz tribes at Semipalatinsk. is said to wear a brown conical Lat, turned up at the - the description indicating a form somewhat like that of the felt icidc-airake in use in this county. f As previously stated on the authority of Buchanan (Martin's "Eastern India," Vol. II., p. 699), the needle seems to have been, before the Mahomedan invasion of India, "totally unknown to the Hindu?." 1 Kinkhaub is the more correct spelling, but Kincob is the term now commonly used. 56 PIECE GOODS. be thus known the one from the other, even when the dress, as often happens, is of the same shape and material.* Fig. 21, PI. III., shows the ordinary long calico coat now worn by the great majority of well-to-do Hindus. In form this differs but little from the long but somewhat more ample garment which Mahomedans wear. The standing figure to the left of the group in the centre of PI. II., and the figures No. 20, PI. III., and 24, 25, PL IV. (facing p. 32), afford additional examples of this article of dress. In the note below will be found the names and descriptions of other garments of the same class either used as upper or as under clothing.f * That in these Jays, however, there are exceptions to this rule evidence is afforded by the standing figure in the group of Mahomedans so called in the description which accompanied the original photograph engaged in the favourite game of chess, in the centre of PI. II., in which the coat is tied on the right instead of on the left side. ( Koorta. This is a loose shirt or under gown worn both by Hindus and Mahomedans. A kind of muslin, called Kumecs (from the Arabic word Gumecs, a shirt), manufactured at Dacca, is used for making the finer qualities of this garment. (" Cotton Manufactures of Dacca.") Angarkha, Ungurhha, Angrakha, &jc. These names, undoubtedly identical, have been assigned to garments of different characters. Thus one writer states the Angarkha to be a sort of shirt worn under the Jama and tied in two places on each side of the body ; and a close observer of details Buchanan says that the Angrakha is a short calico vest with sleeves resembling the Anyga which descends only to the haunches ; he states also that the garment, instead of being fastened on both sides, is tied on one side only, viz., on the right by the Hindu, and on the left by the Mahpmcclan. Another writer informs us that the Ungurkha is a long-skirted gown with long sleeves and closed or covered breasts. Minah and Angga. The Minah is made of muslin, has' sleeves, and is tied across the breast. It descends to below the calf of the leg, and is worn by male Mahomedans in hot weather. The Angga is not so long, teaching only to the haunches, and is worn in place of the Minah. Mirzaee. An under jacket with long loose sleeves and open cuffs, woni under the Kuba by respectable Mahomedans and by upper servants in European employ. Kufcha. An open jacket, differing from the Mirzaee in having tight sleeves. Kuba. A long close sort of gown worn by Mahomedans and Hindus. It differs from the Ungurkha in being open-breasted, and is worn over the Mirzaee or Koorta. Kaba. Probably same as the Kuba. Described as having very wide sleeves and reaching to the knees. Worn by Mahomedans in place of the Jama. Jama or Jamo. These names would appear to be given to the outer or dress gown in general wear, in the same manner as the term Ungurkha is applied to the under-gown or shirt in its different forms. Buchanan calls the Jamah an outer coat of same fashion and material as the Minah, but descending to the feet, and states that it forms part of the Mahomedan costume in hot weather. Another writer describes it as having a double-breasted body with loose skirts gathered in close plaits at the waist, and says that it is worn by the higher classes at native courts. In this form it was the ancient court dress of Delhi, where the original Persian (Moghul) pattern was never altered. Jaguli. Mr. Batten, in his report on Kumaon and Gurwhul, describes this as a Jama reaching to the knees. Chupkan. A long-skirted gown resembling the Ungurkha and the usual dress of respectable male domestics, both Hindu and Mahomedan. Duglce, Dvglo. Coats worn by Hindu, Parsee, and Mahomedan males of Western India. The Duglo is of cloth. Ulba-Jooblia. The Arabian and Persian cloak worn over all other garments. Open in front, and much resembling the English boat-cloak. T^lbada. A wide great coat worn by male Hindus. Jora. The Mahomedan dress suit, comprising, 1. The Dustar or Turban. 2. The Nimah. 3. The Jamah. 4. The Kummerbund. 5. The Izar. MADE-UP GARMENTS. 57 After the jacket or long coat, the article next in importance is the PAKJAMA or TROWSER. It is worn by both sexes, and although its use is as yet greatly confined to the Mahomcdan part of the population, the younger members of the Hindu community in the larger towns are beginning to adopt it. In most parts of the country the Dhotee is invariably worn under it. As a riding dress the Hindus wear trowsers, but always with the Dho/rc underneath. Some Rajput women are said to wear long drawers like the Mahomedans ; their use amongst Hindu ladies however, is extremely limited. The Paejama * is variously made, sometimes wide and free and sometimes tight at the leg and ankle. The male figures 24 and 25, PI. IV., and the standing figure to left of the centre group 30 in PI. V. (facing p. 40) illustrate the first ; whilst the figure to the right in same group, and the stalwart devotee, No. 17, PI. III., show the latter form; the last-named figure also shows a mode of fastening by means of a string tied round the waist.f Although amongst the female r>.irt of the community the use of the trowser is almost entirely confined to those of the ..loslem persuasion, we find that the petticoat or skirt, though also of Mahomedan origin, is frequently worn by Hindu women along with the Saree.% Fig. 26, PI. V. illustrates what may be termed the simplest form of petticoat. As a rule, it is a garment which is kept within more moderate dimensions than in European countries, but there are instances in which it consumes as many as 60 yards of material in the making. It is allowed however to hang in thick dense folds, without, any attempt at expansion by mechanical means. The skirt or petticoat shown on the prim-looking dancing girl, No. 31, PI. V,, is of this class. || * Although this term (Paejama), literally leg-clothes, has come to be of pretty general application, strictly speaking it applies only to the loose variety. In the north and cast of India the Paejama is for the most part loose. In the central and southern provinces the Paejama is generally tight. By the Mahomedans of Arcot and Southern India generally, a peculiar form of Paejama is used which bulges out at the sides like the European " peg-top " trowsers. Izar is in some districts the distinctive name of the kind used by men, and Turwar that used to indicate the tight-fitting female trowser, of which the standing figure to right of group 30, in the centre of PI. V. (facin- p. 40) affords an illustration. Shalwar and Gurgi are two names likewise in use ; the former referring to Ion 1 * and the latter to short trowsers or drawers tight at the knee and full above. f The strings used for this purpose are frequently of a very ornamental character, made of silk net-work like our military sashes, with gold tassels, &c. | Buchanan states (Op. Cit., Vol. II., p. 417) that widows of pure birth are not allowed to use the petticoat, but that those of low caste may. In the India Museum there are two dress-skirts, the one of red and the other of white muslin, which measure respectively 103 and 180 feet in circumference. || Lahangga, Luhinga, Ghagra, and Peshgecr are terms used to designate the skirt or petticoat. Peshwaz is the name of a Mahomedan dress reaching to the ankle, and is usually of coloured muslin. The upper portion to the waist is similar to the full dress Jama, the lower portion being as much frilled as the waistband will carry. The lower part of the skirt is trimmed with bands and flounces of gold lace, and silver and gold tissue ; the upper portion being also richly ornamented. This dress is worn by Mahomedan brides, and by Mahomedan ladies on occasions of household festivals ; and it forms the invariable costume of Mahomedan dancing women, or of Hiudun who dance in the Mahomedan style. Peswaj, however, is given by Buchanan as the name of a gown with sleeves, which reaches to the heels worn by Mahomedan ladies. 58 PIECE GOODS. A kind of bodice or close-fitting jacket, of varying dimensions, is now almost universally used by Hindu women. There are, however, one or two districts in which, as before stated, no special needle-made covering for the bosom is worn by respectable Hindu women. The most common form of the bodice worn by Hindu and Mahomedan women, con- sists of a closely-fitting jacket with short sleeves*, either merely covering the breast or having a back attached to it as well. In the first case the bodice ties behind and the front does not open. In the second, with a back, the ends of the bodice tie in front under the breasts. Another variety of the jacket termed Koortee reaches nearly to the waist and some- times lower, and has very short sleeves. It is worn by Mahomedan women and is frequently used over the former. Fig. 33, PL V., gives a fair idea of the Choice or first variety of bodice, but the sleeves, as there shown, are shorter than is usual among Hindus. Of the Koortee or Mahomedan jacket, with its characteristic short sleeve, no illustration is given. The figures 34, PI. V., and those in 35, PI. VI. (facing p. 50), show the Choice sleeve as most commonly worn by Hindu ladies. As a general rule the sleeve of the Mahomedan cholee reaches less than half-way from the shoulder to the elbow, whereas the Hindu sleeve usually extends just below the elbow. Our general remarks on the costumes of the people of India may now be considered to be nearly completed a few observations regarding the application of made-up woollen materials only remaining to be made. Accordingly, we shall now proceed to describe the cotton, silk, and other piece goods employed in the manufacture of the class of garments to which reference has just been made, and in dealing with this part of our subject we shall commence with the finer before proceeding to the coarser materials, though many of the last are, commercially, of most importance. * Called Kachuree in some dialects of Western India ; the term Cholee, although strictly applicable to that which has a back, is the one commonly used. Kupissa or Kupassa is the name given to the bodice in Mysore, &c. Buchanan describes the Anggiya as a bodice with very short sleeves, which reaches to the waist, is made of muslin, and is worn under the Peswaj. The Koortee, by the same authority, is also referred to as having been introduced into Behar from the west. The Ungia, as worn with the petticoat, is closed in front and ties behind. The Cholee, worn with the Saree, 011 the contrary, is tied in front and closed behind. Captain Meadows Taylor, to whom we are indebted for some valuable notes under this head of our subject, endorses Buchanan's statement, that before the Mahomedan conquests, the bodice, and other needle-made articles were unknown in India. DACCA MUSLINS. 59 DACCA MISLIXS. As under this head we shall have occasion to notice the famed and still valued productions of the Dacca loom, we shall here take the opportunity of making some general remarks regarding their Jincness. It has long been a subject of interest and doubt whether the finest Dacca muslins have ever been equalled or surpassed by the machine-made muslins of Europe. An answer has been given to the question by the British manufacturer, who alleges that the hand-spinner of Dacca has produced nothing so fine as some of the examples produced by his machinery. It was asserted, and it has been generally accepted as true, that in the Exhibitions of 1851 and 1862 there were muslins of European make which were finer than anything shown there from India. Whatever be the state of the case, however, as regards the contest between Dacca and European muslins, quoad actual fineness, this at least seems clear and it is admitted, we believe, by all that as regards ajiparciif fineness India bears the palm. It is said that this is explained by a greater compression of the thread, depending on the peculiar mode of spinning, and by a consequent lessening of its diameter. We do not think that this fact should be lost sight of. Apparent fineness, of course, is not actual fineness ; but actual fineness loses much of its value by seeming coarse. Whether the muslins which disputed with Dacca for the prize were or were not really the finer, it was admitted by our best judges in such matters that they seemed not to be so. In dealing with a vexed question of this kind the first thing to be done is to examine the way in which the relative fineness of the different muslins is practically determined and stated. We cannot show this better than by quoting from a letter which we received from Mr. H. Houldsworth, in February 1864 : " It may be useful to repeat here the formula for ascertaining the fineness of yarn when woven. In England it is designated bij the number of liankx in one pound weight of 7,000 grs. A hank is 840 yards, or 30,240 inches. The first step is to count the number of threads of warp and weft in one square inch. This is usually done by the weaver's magni- fying glass, which, through an opening of i inch, brings the threads in that space distinctly into view. Thus the specimen A B (muslin from Arnee, Madras) counts 40 threads each way in i inch, or 80 threads in 1 inch of warp, and 80 of weft, showing that each square inch contains 160 inches of yarn. Thus the sq. ins. in the piece X 160 30 240 " = " an k s in tne piece ; and, as the wt. of the piece in grains : the hanks : : 7,000 : No. of the yarn. Then for A B (the length of which is 15 yds. 18 inches, the width 1 yd. 16 inches, Sq. ins. piece. Thds. p. inch. inch. and the weight 6891 grs.), 29016 Xj_60^X7000_ ^ , , fts y0240~X 6891grs. : Nothing can be more clear or simple than the process here described, but it is, at the same time, very evidently one into which error may easily creep. For instance, if we take two specimens of the same muslin halving a piece, for example and if we starch and dress the one half, and leave the other unstarched, by following the manufacturer's method of determining fineness, we shall arrive at the startling conclusion that it is two things at (3428.) L 60 PIECE GOODS. once that the yarn of which it is all made is of two distinct qualities. It will be seen that the whole process depends on the determination of the length of yarn in a given weight of cloth ; but it is clear that this length will be the same before starching as after, while the weight, on the other hand, will be very different ; and this will, of course, affect the estimate of the fineness, and it may do so to a very serious extent. In the case of the Arnee muslin, which formed the subject of the above calculation, we found the loss in weight, after careful washing, to be 23 per cent., and it would in con- sequence have the No. of its yarn raised from 156 before washing to 203 after washing. In ascertaining the comparative fineness, therefore, of different woven yarns, this process cannot be safely employed, unless the sizing or starching has been carefully removed from all the specimens examined and compared. So also it will almost certainly lead to erroneous conclusions if in one muslin the fineness is estimated before, and in another after the yarn is woven. In the first case we find how many hanks or lengths of 840 yards there are in 7,000 grains of yarn, and in the other how many like lengths there are in 7)000 grains of the fabric. But this last will not, or may not, represent 7>000 grains of yarn, but that weight of a mixture of yarn and size. Now it so happens that in assigning those numbers to European muslins which represent their fineness, they have been computed from the yarns before weaving, but the numbers for the Dacca muslins, on the other hand, have always been computed from the fabrics. These last are not nearly so heavily starched as fine European muslins generally are, but still a certain proportion of their weight does consist of size. And this fact has only to be stated to show that the two sets of estimates, when used for purposes of comparison, cannot tell the truth of the matter. If the numbers assigned to Dacca muslins be computed from the examination of the finished fabric, so ought also those for the European and even then we must take the further and absolutely necessary precaution of having both sets of specimens carefully washed. Feeling that this dispute as to superiority was really an unsettled thing, we resolved to try to throw some light on it by another mode of inquiry. It was thought this might be done l>y a series of determinations of the diameter of the thread, the number of filaments in it, and the diameter of the Jilaments themselves. Such measurements could only be ascertained by the aid of the microscope in the hands of persons accustomed to its use, and such assistance was accordingly sought. Four muslins were selected two of European and two of Dacca make. Of the European, one was the best exhibited in 1851,* and the other the best exhibited in 1862.f Of those from Dacca, one was the best exhibited in 1862, and the other a still finer one from the India Museum.^ Each specimen was divided into several portions and these were given to two skilled observers, who were not told that among the samples sent for examination there were any duplicates. This course was adopted in order to have a thorough test of accuracy in a large comparison of results. Ten sets of measurements for each portion of each specimen were made. In only one case was the discrepancy such as to lead us to conclude that the * Numbered in the Catalogue of the Exhibition as 540 s . Of the accuracy of this No., however, there is good reason for doubt. f Numbered in Catalogue of the Exhibition, 44.0 s . Muslia, manufactured by M. Thivel Michon, of Tavare, from yarn made by II. Houldsworth and Co., of Manchester. J As calculated from the piece these gave 380 and 406 as the Nos. of their yarn. DACCA MUSI/ l.Ns. 61 observer had made a mistake, probably by an accidental change of sample at one stage of the measurements. The general results bear intrinsic evidence of substantial accuracy a conclusion which we think a careful examination of the following table will bear out : Description Diameter of Threads. (Part* of an inch.) Number of Filaments in Thread. Diameter of Filaments in Thread in part* of an im h.+ Minimum. Maximum. Mean. Mini- mum. Maxi- mum. Mean. Minimum. Maximum Mean. 'rench muslin, manufactured by M. 1st sample 1)02(1 (KI40 008000* 5 12 8'5* 00036 00100 00068* Mirhou.of l.avare.from thread -'ml ditto 0015 003 002200 8 21 12-7 oooso 00075 000618 of 44d's, spun by Thomas Houlds- 3rd ditto 110125 ooa 002025 7 18 11-7 oooffo 00087 000887 worth & Co. Shown at the Inter- 4th ditto 001S 008 008350 10 20 15-5 00037 00087 000625 national Exhibition of 1SU2. ."ith ditto 0015 003 002225 y M 15-8 )-,() is 7 in 10687 Mean - OO2Z2O 13-8 0006427 ;ngIMi Muslin, staled to be of run's 1 st sample 0032 0025* 7 14 in-:,* 00030 00084 00057* yarn. Exhibited in International 2nd ditto 00175 008 003 IS 9 n n;-7 00050 00075 ooo.'.:.. Exhibition of is.">i. :ird ditto OOUJ 00215 7 22 00037 00075 OOO'iOii Mean - OO21C7 14-9 OOO539 ^Dacca muslin, Mulmul Khas from 1st sample 0014 0032 0023* o 12 8-5* 00030 00102 00066* India Museum. 2nd ditto 001 0025 001636 5 14 9-2 00062 00125 00080 !. 4 yards.* \Viilih, 1 yard. 3rd ditto 00075 002 00135 4 18 8-9 00062 00112 00082 iWarp threads per square inch, 100. Weft threads in square inch, 92. Mean 001526 0-0 000803 Weight of piece, 566-8grs. ^ComputedNo. of yarn in piece, 406's. "Dacca muslin, Mitlmnl Khas. V.\- 1 st sample 0015 0035 0025* 4 10 7* 00038 00098 00068* hibited in Indian section of the In- 2nd ditto -00125 -00375 002175 5 15 9 00050 00075 000681 ternational Exhibition of 1862. 3rd ditto 00125 -00225 001825 4 12 8-1 00062 00087 00095 Length, 10 yds. 12 ins. Width, 1 yard 4th ditto 1)01 0025 0017 5 16 8-9 00062 00100 000725 Warp threads in square inch, 104. 5th ditto .001 0025 001825 4 17 8-8 000375 00100 000725 Weft threads in square inch, 100. : Weight of piece, 1565 grains. Mean - C01396 8-0 __ OOO719 Computed No. of yarn in piece, 380's. j * Those marked thus are the means of the highest and lowest of all the measurements made. The means without the asterisk are calcu- lated from the sum of ten separate measurements. The general means are calculated by using the means marked by the asterisks as one observation, the others being multiplied by ten, and so giving the sum of all the observations from which they are drawn. f To ascertain this, the size was in each case removed before the separation into filaments was attempted. j This applies to the portion used for experiment ; the original length of the piece was 10 yards. These measurements, so far as they go, lead to the following conclusions : 1. That the diameter of the Dacca yam is less than that of the finest European. The two finest specimens of the last ever known to have been exhibited, gave '00222 and -002167 of an inch, while the two specimens from India gave '001526 and 001896 respectively. At first sight this does not appear a great difference, but it is in reality a very appreciable one, and so far as it goes it is distinctly in favour of the Indian fabrics. 2. That the number of filaments in each thread is considerably smaller in the Dacca than in the European yarns. The two latter gave 13'8 and 14'9, and the two former 9'0 and 8'6. We were scarcely prepared to find this point of difference so decidedly marked, but no result of the investigation may be more safely accepted as correct. 3. That the diameter of the ultimate filaments or fibres, of which the cotton of the Dacca yarn consists, is larger than that of the European. The two last gave 0006427 inch and '000539 inch; and the two former '000803 inch and .000719 inch. Here again the difference is quite decided, and is only in accordance with the results of other investigations into the comparative size of the filaments of Indian and American cotton. L 2 62 PIECE GOODS. 4. That it appears from the investigation that the superior fineness of Dacca yarn depends chiefly on the fact that it contains a smaller number of filaments. The mode of spinning as we shall afterwards find makes it more compressed, but it is not probable that this greatly affects the result. Even after taking into account the greater thickness of the filaments of the cotton used in Dacca, it is clear, however, that their number, which is so much smaller, must give a finer thread. In other words the eight to nine (8'9 & 9'0) filaments of a diameter of -000803 and -000719 as in the best of the two Dacca muslins, must give a thread smaller in size or finer, than the 14 or 15 (13'8 and 14 -9) filaments of a diameter of -0006427 and '000539 as in the best of the two muslins from Europe. The measurements of the diameter of the thread were taken from specimens of muslin which were sized, that is in the condition in which they are offered for sale as finished goods. But as it was possible that the sizing might influence these, it was carefully removed from all of them and the measurements repeated. The results of this part of the investigation are given in the following table : Description. Diameter of threads. (Parts of an inch.) Minimum. Maximum. Mean.* (" 1st sample French muslin (International Exhibition of 1862). - < 2nd ditto 001 00125 00325 00325 .001875 001925 L nEean OO19 I" 1st sample English muslin (International Exhibition of 1851). - J 2nd ditto 001 00125 00275 0025 00180 00180 I Mean OO18 {1st sample 2nd ditto mean 00075 001 002 0025 00130 001375 OO13375 {1st sample 2nd ditto Mean 001 001 00225 00225 00155 001575 0015625 * Calculated from ten separate measurements. This table shows that it was proper to extend and complete the investigation, and that sizing does really affect the diameter of the thread ; but it also shows that the Indian maker is still able to claim the palm his yarn being-finer than anything yet knoicn to have been produced in Europe* * In the International Exhibition of 1862, a few yards of muslin, stated to be of No. 700 s yarn, spun by Thomas Houldsworth & Co., of Manchester, were shown. Regarding this specimen, Mr. Hotildsworth himself remarked that it was too imperfect for any purpose, except to fix the limits of fineness at which cotton yarn can be woven at all. Eegarding the specimens of muslin of 440 s yarn, exhibited on the same occasion, and a portion from which formed one of the subjects of the investigation here detailed, Mr. Houldsworth states that he considers these a great advance on any muslin exhibited in 1851. chiefly, he adds, " Owing to the introduction " since then of Neilman's combing machine for cotton, by which the quality of fine yarn has been vastly improved, " and made nearly as perfect as the fibre will admit." (Catalogue of the Indian Department of the International Exhibition of 1862, p. 206.) Mr. Houldsworth's further remarks, on this subject, have such an immediate bearing on what has preceded, that we repeat them here. Eeferring to the muslin (440 s ) before named, he continues, " A comparison, however, of this muslin with the Dacca piece, as tested by the eye and feel, would lead " to the opinion that the Indian piece was the Jiner. This arises from the difference in the finishing or getting DACCA MUSLINS. 63 The condition of the fibre with reference to the amount of twisting which it receives in the process of spinning, constitutes another element of advantage in iavour of the Dacca muslins. The subjoined Table* shows the diHerence between the two in this respect : Description. IKT nl' twists in thr.-ui! per inch. Minimum. Maximum. Mean.* French muslin (International Exhibition, 1862). .( 1-1 >ample 2nd ditto 32 in 172 166 7:! 2 111- 1 I Mean 68-0 English muslin (International Exhibition, 1 'I 1 st sample 2nd ditto Mean 26 20 114 146 65-6 56-6 Dacca muslin (India Museum). .( Nt .-ample 2nd ditto 64 46 260 190 121 -s 98-4 I Mean 110-1 Dacca muslin ( International Exhibition, 1862). . r L 1st sample 2nd diito Mean 48 38 196 144 B2-8 78.6 8O-7 * Calculated from the sum of ten separate determinations. In the case of the two first the European we find that the number of twists or turns which each inch of the yarn has received in the process of spinning amounts on the average to only 68'8 and 56'6 as compared with HO'l and 80'7 in the Indian. This is a most important difference, and one which in all probability affords the key to the very superior dt&rability of the hand-made over the machine-made fabric it being well known that for wear these very fine machine-made muslins of Europe are practically useless, whereas the very finest of the hand-made ones from India are proverbially lasting, and bear frequent washing, which the finest English or European muslins do not.f ' ; up ot' the two muslins the French pieces being got up hard and wiry by means of starch, which coats the threads ' and makes them appear courser than they are ; while the Dacca muslin is soft, and appears perfectly free from nil " starch or other dressing. It may also be that the India threads, spun by hand, are more condensed in their " substance by the compression of the fingers in the act of spinning than the machine-spun 440 s of the Manchester yarn." f These calculations were made by .Mr. W. T. Suffolk, to whose care and skill I am indebted for the results in the last Table, as well as for the majority of those in the one preceding it. The determination of the number of twists per inch was effected without taking the fabric to pieces, in order to avoid the chance of untwisting. The muslin was placed in a compressorium, gently drawn straight, and then fixed. The twists were counted in a length of half-an-inch, determined by means of a carefully cut aperture, the figures being, of course, doubled to give the twists per inch. Power used a -jj-yds. binocular = x GO diameters. f It might be thought that the greater length of the fibre of the Sea-island cotton, of which these European muslins are made, would neutralize the advantage arising from the superior twisting of the shorter Indian staple ; the difference in favour of the Indian njiinniny is, however, too great for this to hold good. The shorter staple of ib- Indian cotton may, however, to some extent, account for /iiiic/iinc-inudc fabrics of it being less durable than those composed of the longer staple cottons, although the difference in the length between India cotton and that of the " Middling Orleans," which before the American civil war constituted the bulk of the cotton used in this country. only amounts on the average to ,'gth of an inch. Another fact must be kept in mind the filaments of the Indian cotton being thicker than that of the American (Sea Island) are perhaps inilii-idm/lli/ stronger ; and, therefore, although called upon to attribute the greater durability of the Dacca muslins, to their better spinning, it is possible that the thickness of the ultimate fibre may have something to do with the matter. 64 PIECE GOODS. However viewed, therefore, our manufacturers have something xtill to do. WitJt all our machinery and wondrous appliances, we have hitherto been unable to produce a fabric which for fineness or utility can equal the "woven air" of Dacca (he product of arrangements which appear rude and primitive, but which in reality are admirably adapted for their purpose. These arrangements appear to us of such interest that we shall introduce here a short account of the processes of the Dacca manufactures, and for this purpose shall fully avail ourselves of the information contained in an admirable work on the Cotton Manufactures of Dacca,* which we are able to say was written by James Taylor, Esq. This gentleman sent to the Exhibition of 1851 a series of specimens of the Dacca fabrics, with valuable drawings, and other objects, illustrative of the process of manufacture. Soon after the Exhibition, Mr. Taylor wrote the book referred to as the one from which the following extracts are taken. Those who desire a knowledge of the subject more full and minute than the quotations afford, should consult the work itself. In order to make the descrip- tion as clear as possible, we have had prepared from the drawings in the India Museum, a lithographic representation opposite of the chief processes on a larger scale than those which Mr. Taylor used in illustration of his excellent work. The passages which we have selected and which we here reproduce, are those which describe the processes of spinning, weaving, bleaching, and dressing. SPINNING. " The cotton in the state oikdp&s (i. e. seeds and wool unseparated) is cleaned and prepared by the women who spin the yarn. Fragments of the leaves, stalks, and capsules of the plant are carefully picked out with the fingers, and the wool adhering to the seeds is then carded with the jaw-bone of the boalee fish (Siluris boaiis), the teeth of which, being small, recurved, and closely set, act as a fine comb in removing the loose and coarser fibres of the cotton, and all extraneous matter, such as minute particles of earthy and vegetable matter, from it. The Hindoo spinner, with that unwearied patience that characterizes her race, sits down to the laborious task of cleaning with this instrument each separate seed of cotton. Having accomplished this, she proceeds to detach the fibres from the seeds. This is done by placing a small quantity of the combed cotton upon a smooth flat board, made of the wood of the Chalta tree (Dillenia specwsa), and then rolling an iron pin backwards and forwards upon it with the hands, in such a manner as to separate the fibres without crushing the seeds. The cotton is next teased with a small hand- bow, formed of a piece of bamboo with two elastic slips of the same material inserted into it, and strung with a cord made of catgut, muga silk, or of plantain or rattan fibres, twisted together. The bamboo slips are moveable within the centre piece, and in proportion to the extent they are drawn out, or pushed back, the tension of the cord is increased or diminished. The cotton having been reduced by the operation of bowing to a state of light downy fleece, is spread out and lapped round a thick wooden roller ; and, on the removal of the latter instrument, it is pressed between two flat boards. It is next rolled round a piece of lacquered reed of the size of a quill ; and, lastly, is enveloped in the smooth and soft skin of -the cuchia fish, which serves as a cover- to preserve it from dust and from being soiled, whilst it is held in the hand, during the process of spinning." " The finest thread is spun by women generally under thirty years of age. The spinning ap- paratus, which is usually contained in a small flat work-basket, not unlike the calathus of the * A Descriptive and Historical Account of the Cotton Manufactures of Dacca in Bengal, by a. former Resident of Dacca. Publisher, John Mortimer, 1851. ' . ' ''. '.' N2 . WARPING. Nl. SPINNING FINE YARN. N3. REELING YARN FROMAREEID. M94 APPLYING THE REED TO THE WARP NP 6. FORMING THE HEDDLES. N.~(tn), a, delicate iron spindle,* a piece of shell embedded in clay, and a little hollow stone containing chalk-powder, to which the spinner occa- sionally applies her fingers. The spindle (//< /?') is not much thicker than a stout needle. It is from ten to fourteen inches in length ; and attached to it, near its lower point, is a small ball of unbaked clay, to give it suHicient weight in turning. The spinner (fig. 1, pi. A.) holds it in an inclined position, with its point resting in the hollow of the piece of shell, and turns it between the thumb and forefinger of one hand, while she, at the same time, draws out the single filaments from the roll of cotton held in the other hand, and twists them into yarn upon the spindle. When a certain quantity of the yarn has been spun and collected on this instrument it is wound from it upon a reed. Dryness of the air prevents the filaments of cotton from being sufficiently attenuated or elongated, and is, therefore, unfavourable to the spinning of fine yarn. A certain degree of moisture, combined with a temperature of about 82 degrees, is the condition of the atmos- phere best suited to the carrying on of this operation. The Dacca spinners generally work from soon after early dawn to nine or 10 o'clock, A.M., and from three or four in the afternoon till half an hour before sunset. The finest yarn is spun early in the morning before the rising sun dissi- pates the dew on the grass ; or, when this is wanting and the air is unusually dry, it is not unfre- quently made over a shallow vessel of water, the evaporation from which imparts the necessary degree of moisture to the filaments of cotton, and enables the spinner to form them into thread. " The native weavers commonly judge of the fineness of yarn by sight alone. They have no rule or standard for the length of the reels, or instrument by which they can form an estimate of any given weight of thread. The only mode, therefore, of ascertaining the quality of the fine yarn is to weigh the skeins and then measure them on sticks placed in the ground, as in warping an operation which requires delicate manipulation, and which few except the spinners or weavers themselves can do. Yarn is measured by the hdtli (cubit), the length of which is stated by the Commercial Resident to be 19;, { inches ; and is weighed by iheruttee, which is equal to about two grains troy. The standard quality of the yarn used in the manufacture of the muslins formerly sent to the Court of Delhi is said to have been 150 hdths in length to one ruttee in weight ; but was commonly used varied from 140 to 160 hdtlts in length to the above weight the yarn of 140 hdths being employed for the warp, and that of 160 for the weft, of these fabrics. The finest yarn used in the Dacca looms, in the year 1800, did not exceed 140 cubits in length to one ruttee in weight. Some, however, is mentioned as having been spun at Sunargong at this time, of the quality of 175 cubits to one ruttee. Yarn much finer than this is made at Dacca in the present day. A skein, which a native weaver measured in my presence in 1846, and which was afterwards carefully weighed, proved to be in the proportion of upwards of 250 miles to the pound of cotton. The short fibres of the Dacca cotton, of which the fine thread is made, are not well adapted to spinning by machinery; while, on the other hand, the long, cylindrico-spiral, and more elastic fibres of the American cotton which are best suited to this process, cannot be made into fine yarn with the primitive spindle of the Hindoo. In 1811, a quantity of Sea Island cotton was sent by the Commercial Resident to the different manufactur- ing stations connected with the Dacca factory for trial, but the spinners were unable to work it into thread, and it was pronounced to be an article unfit for the manufactures of the native looms. The Dacca yarn is said to be softer than mule twist ; and I believe it is generally admitted that the fabrics made of it are more durable than muslins manufactured by machinery. The tendency of the fibres to expand from moisture is the criterion by which the native weavers judge of the quality of cotton ; and it is mentioned by Mr. Bebb, the Commercial Resident in 1 789, as the test which then determined the value of this article as raised in different parts of the district. The cotton which swells the least on bleaching is considered by the weavers as the best, or at least, as the material best suited to the manufacture of fine thread. A common remark among them is, that English yarn swells on bleaching, while Dacca spun thread shrinks and becomes stronger the more frequently it is subjected to that process." In some of the eastern districts of Bengal, and in Assam, the spindle is frequently made of a slender piece of bamboo instead of iron. 60 PIECE GOODS. " A spinner devoting the whole morning to the spindle can make about a half-sicca or tola weight (ninety grains troy) of fine thread in a month. This is considered the maximum quantity. But as spinning is now more a leisure occupation than a professed trade, it is calculated that the average quantity produced in that time, by each of the persons employed in the business, does not much exceed 45 grains weight. Fine thread is weighed either by a small rude balance (tula), on the principle of the Roman steel-yard, or in jewellers' scales the substances used as weights in the latter case being four barleycorns, or a seed of the Abrus precatorius (lal hunch), either of which constitutes a rut fee. The price of the finest yarn used in the Dacca looms is eight rupees (16s.) per tola weight (180 grains). This is at the rate of about 3 1/. 2s. per pound (7,000 grains) avoirdupois." The steps in the process of weaving " may be described according to the order in which they occur, under the following head*, viz. : winding and preparing the yarn; warping; applying the reed to the warp ; beaming, or applying the warp to the end roll of the loom ; preparing the heddles ; and lastly, weaving." WINDING AND PREPARING THE YARN. " The yarn when delivered to the weaver is wound on small pieces of reed, or made up in the form of small skeins. The first thing that is done is to steep it in this state in water. It is then reeled in the manner shown in figure 3, PI. A. A piece of stick is passed through the hollow reed and fixed in the cleft end of a piece of bamboo. The weaver, holding the latter between his toes, draws off the yarn from the reed, which revolves upon the stick through it, and winds it upon the reel, which he holds in the other hand, and whirls round in a small cup of smooth cocoa-nut shell. When the yarn is in the form of a skein, it is put upon a small wheel made oi fine splints of bamboo and thread. This is mounted on the end of a stick upon which it is made to revolve, and as the yarn is thus draVvn off, it is wound upon the reel." ' The yarn is divided into two portions viz., a sufficient quantity of the finest of it for the woof (burna), and the rest for the warp (tuna)'' " The warp thread is steeped for three days in water, which is twice changed daily. On the fourth day it is, after being rinsed, put upon a small wheel, made of splits of reed and thread, and is then reeled the stick upon which the wheel is mounted being held between the toes, and the reel turned in the manner represented. Skeins of a convenient size having been wound off, are steeped in water, and tightly twisted between two sticks ; they are then left upon the sticks and exposed to the sun to dry. They are next untwisted and put into water mixed with fine charcoal-powder, lampblack, or soot scraped from the surface of an earthen cooking vessel. They are kept in tins mixture for two days, then rinsed in clear water, wrung out, and hung upon pieces of stick placed in the shade to dry. Each skein having been again reeled, is steeped in water for one night, and is next day opened up and spread over a flat board, upon which it is smoothed with the hand, and rubbed over with a paste or size made of koie (paddy or rice, from which the husk has been removed by heated sand), and a small quantity of fine lime mixed with water. Rice, it may be remarked, has formed the basis of the starched used in weaving in India, from remote antiquity. ' Let a weaver,' says Menu, ' who has received ten palas of cotton thread, give them back increased to eleven by the rice water, and the like used in weaving, &c., (Menu's 'Institutes,' No. 397.')" " The skeins after being sized are wound upon large reels, and exposed to the sun the turns of the thread being widely spread over the surface of the reels in order that they may dry quickly. All the thread is again reeled and sorted preparatory to warping. It is generally divided into three shades of quality viz., the finest for the right-hand side, the next finest for the left-hand side, and tjie coarsest for the centre, of the warp. Such is the mode of preparing the yarn for the warp of plain muslins. The yarn for the warp of striped or chequered fabrics, is prepared by twisting a certain number of threads together, namely, two for each stripe of the dourcect, DACCA MUSLIW 07 and four for that of the cltnrkunn, muslin, and then sizing and reeling it in the manner above mentioned." " The yarn for the woof is not prepared till two days previous to the commencement of weaving. A quantity sufficient for one day's work is steeped in water for twenty-four hours. Next day it is rinsed and wound on large reels, and then lightly sized with paste of the same kind as that applied to the warp. From small reels it is wound upon larger ones, and left upon these to dry in the shade. This process of preparing the yarn for the woof is continued daily until the cloth H finished." WAUPING. " This operation is usually performed in a field or any open spot convenient for the work near the weaver's house. For this purpose, four short bamboo posts are fixed in the ground, at measured distances (varying according to the intended length of the cloth), and several pairs of rods placed between them, the whole forming two parallel rows of rods about four feet apart. The weaver holding a small wheel of warp-yarn in each hand (Fig. 2, pi. A.), passes the latter over one of the posts and then walks along the rows, laying down two threads, and crossing them (by crossing his hands between each pair of rods) until he arrives at the post at the opposite extremity. He retraces his steps from this point, and thus continues to traverse backwards and forwards as many times as there are threads of the warp to be laid down. The small wheels or bobbins on which the warp yarn is wound are made of fine splits of bamboo and thread, and are each attached at a right angle to a short handle, at the end of which there is a kangch* ring, through which the yarn runs. Two pairs of hand-wheels, one with single, and another with twisted yarn, are used alternately for the warps of striped and chequered muslins." APPLYING THE REED TO THE WARP. " The reed is generally applied to the warp after the preceding 1 operation ; but sometimes it is not attached until the warp has been fastened to the end roll of the loom. It is made of fine splits of bamboo firmly fixed between ribs of split cane. The finest reed used in the Dacca looms contains only 2,800 dents in a space of 40 inches in length. In order to apply it to the warp, the latter is folded up in the form of a roll or bundle, and suspended from the roof of the weaver's hut, with one end of it unfolded, spread out, and hanging down to within a foot or two from the ground. The reed is then fastened with two slight cords to the bundle and lease rods, and hangs in front of the unfolded portion of the warp. Two workmen seat themselves (Fig. 4, PI. A), one on each side of the warp. Having cut with a knife a portion of its end loops, the man in front passes an iron wire or sley hook through the first division of the reed to the other workman ; and the ends of the two outermost threads being twisted upon it by him, it is drawn back, and the thread thus brought through. In this manner the wire is intro- duced through all the divisions of the reed in succession, and two threads are drawn through each of them at a time. The ends of the threads are gathered in bunches of five or six, and knotted ; and through the loops formed by these knots a small bamboo rod is passed." ^ _^___ _^^ __ . * A kind of coarse glass. M PIECE GOODS. APPLYING THE WARP TO THE END ROLL OF THE LOOM. " This is done out of doors and generally in the place where the operation of warping is performed. The warp is folded upon the reed in the form of a bundle, and is held by a work- man. The end of it is then unfolded, and a thin slip of bamboo having been passed through it, it is received into a longitudinal groove in the end roll (yarn beam), and fastened to it with pieces of string. The end roll rests in two loops of cord attached to two posts, and is turned round with a winch. The warp threads are next arranged. The outermost ones are brought to a distance commensurate with the intended breadth of the cloth, and a portion of the warp being unfolded and put upon the stretch by the person who holds the bundle, two workmen proceed to arrange the threads in its middle. They use a small piece of cane, softened and beaten out at one end into the form of a brush, in order to separate the threads from each other, and then gently tap them with an elastic cane, held in the form of a bow, to bring them into a state of parallelism. The portion of the warp which is thus arranged being carefully wound upon the end roll, another portion is then unrolled and similarly prepared." PREPARING THE HEDDLES. " In order to form the heddles, a portion of the warp behind the reed is unfolded and stretched out horizontally in the same manner as it is in the loom. A broad piece of bamboo is then placed edgewise between the threads of the warp, in order that the weaver may have sufficient room to form the loop of the heddles. The reddish coloured twine of which they are made is unwound from a wheel fixed to a post near the weaver, and being passed between the separated threads of the warp to the opposite side, it is fastened to a cane to which is attached an oval piece of wood about eight inches in length. The weaver (fig. 6, PI. A.) then dips two fingers between the outermost thread of the warp and the one next to it, and brings up a fold or loop of the coloured string which passes upon the inside of the oval piece of wood and is crossed round the cane above. The same process is repeated between every two threads of the warp the cane and oval piece of wood being gradually moved across the warp as the work proceeds. As two sets of loops are made on each side of the warp, two workmen are generally employed at the same time in forming them. When the loops of one side are finished, the warp is removed from the posts, reversed, and stretched out as before, and then those of the other side are made. By this process the loops of the one side are interlinked with those of the other the threads of the warp inclosed within them being thereby so placed as either to rise or fall, according as the force applied by the toe of the weaver acts upon the upper or lower loops of the heddles. The canes on which the loops are crossed are fastened by strings to four small bamboo rods the two upper ones being attached, when placed in the loom, to the slings of the heddles, and the two lower ones to the weights of the treadles." THE LOOM AND OPERATION OF WEAVING. " The Indian loom (fig. 5, PI. A.) is horizontal, and is said by Heeren to resemble that of the ancient Egyptians. At Dacca it is always erected under a roof either that of the weaver's house, or the cover of a shed built for the purpose. Its lateral standards are four bamboo posts firmly fixed in the ground. They are connected above by side-pieces which support the trans- verse rods, to which the slings of the lay or batten, and the balances of the heddles, are attached. The warp wound on the end roll (or yarn beam), and having the reed and heddles attached to DACCA MUM. INN. G9 it, is brought to the loom and fixed to the breast roll (or cloth beam) by a small slip of bamboo, which is passed through the loops of the warp, and received into a longitudinal groove in the beam. Both the end and breast rolls rest either in scooped shoulder-posts, or in strong looped cords attached to the four lateral standards. They are turned round with a winch, and prevented from moving in the opposite direction by a piece of stick, one end of which is inserted into a mortice in the end of the roll, and the other fixed in the ground. The lay or batten consists of two broad flat pieces of wood, grooved on their inner edges for the reception of the reed, which is fixed in its place by iron or wooden pins passed through the ends of the lay. It is suspended from the transverse rod (the counterpart of the cape) above by slings passing through several pieces of sawn shell. By altering the distance between these segments of shell, which is done by lengthening or shortening the intermediate slings, the range of motion of the lay is increased or diminished. The extent of this range of motion regulates, in a great measure, the degree of force which is applied to the weft in weaving ; and, as it is necessary to adapt this to the particular texture of the fabric which is to be made, the proper adjustment of this part of the apparatus requires considerable care, and is considered by the weavers as one of the nicest operations connected with the loom. The balances of the heddles, having the slings of the latter attached to their extremities, are equally poised and suspended from the transverse rod above. The treadles are made of pieces of bamboo, and are contained in a pit dug in the ground, of about three feet in length, by two in breadth, and one and a half in depth. The shuttle is made of the light wood of the betel-nut tree (Areca catechu), and has spear-shaped iron points. It is from 10 to 14 inches in length, and three quarters of an inch in breadth, and weighs about two ounces. It has a long open space in its centre, in which is longitudinally placed a moveablc iron wire, upon which the reed of the weft revolves the thread passing, as it is thrown off from the latter, through an eye in the side of the shuttle. The temple, or instru- ment for keeping the cloth on the stretch during the process of weaving, is formed of two rods connected together with cord, and armed at their outer ends with two brass, hooks or pins, which are inserted into the edges of the cloth on its under surface." " The apparatus of the loom being all adjusted, the weaver proceeds to work in the manner shown in the figure. He sits with his right leg bent under him, upon a board or mat placed close to the edge of the pit, and depressing one of the treadles with the great toe of the left foot, and thus forming the shed in the warp above, he passes the shuttle with a slight jerk from one hand to the other, and then strikes home each shot of the weft with the lay. In performing these operations the Hindoo possesses unrivalled skill. Like most of the native artisans of Bengal, the Dacca weaver is of a slender and somewhat delicate form of bod} r . Deficient in physical strength and energy, he is, on the other hand, endowed with fine sensibility of touch, and a nice perception of weight; while he possesses that singular command of muscular action which enables him to use his toes with almost as great effect as his fingers in the exercise of his art. ' The rigid, clumsy fingers of a European,' says Orme, ' would scarcely be able to make a piece of canvass with the instruments which are all that an Indian employs in making a piece of cambric.'* The stretch of the warp in the loom seldom exceeds one yard in length ; and the depth of the shed is generally about seven-eighths of an inch. To lessen friction on the threads of the warp during the process of weaving, the shuttle, reed, and lay are all oiled ; and to prevent the desiccation of the former in very dry hot weather, a brush made of a tuft of fibres of the nut plant (Arundo karka) and smeared with mustard oil, is occasionally drawn lightly along their extended surface. When a portion of the cloth, to the extent of 10 or 12 inches, is finished, it is, in order to preserve it from being injured by insects, sprinkled with lime-water, and then rolled upon the cloth-beam, and a portion of the warp unwound from the yarn-beam at the opposite end of the loom. The condition of the atmosphere most favourable to the manufacture * Fine muslin is meant. M 2 70 PIECE GOODS. of fine muslins, is that of a temperature of about 82 degrees combined with moisture. The heat and dazzling glare of the sun's rays at mid-day are generally too powerful to admit of the process being carried on at that time, and hence it is a practice among the weavers to work only in the morning and afternoon. The best season for weaving fine muslins is during the months of Assar, Sawan, and Bhadun (from the 13th of May to the 14th of August.) In very dry hot weather it is sometimes necessary, during the operation of weaving, to place beneath the extended yarns of the warp in the loom a few shallow vessels of water, the evaporation from which keeps the threads moist and prevents them from breaking. Doubtless, it is this practice which has given rise to the erroneous notion that Dacca muslins are sometimes woven under water. The time required for the manufacture of a piece of muslin of the usual dimensions (20 yards in length by 1 in breadth) necessarily depends on the quality of the fabric, and the expertness of the weaver employed in making it. In this latter respect there exists great diversity natural aptitude, hereditary instruction, and constant practice enabling individual?, as they possess these several advantages to a greater or less extent, to attain to different degrees of excellence in the art. In general, the weavers of the different manufacturing stations of the district confine their industry to the weaving of certain kinds of fabrics ; but, notwithstanding the degree of tact and manual dexterity suited to their particular work, which they thus acquire from this subdivision of the business, there is yet a considerable difference displayed by the workmen in each department, both in regard to the quantity of work of a certain quality which they are individually capable of producing, and the length of time which they require for doing it. On the subject of the time usually occupied in weaving different fabrics, the Commercial Resident states : ' The preparation of the land or warp thread of a full piece of plain or striped cloth of the Dacca station employs two men, according to the quality of the thread, from 10 to 30 days. The weaving of such cloth employs two persons, one to weave, the other to prepare thread and attend the loom if of the ordinary or middling plain assortments, from 10 to 15 days if of the fine, 20 the superfine, 30 the fine superfine, from 40 to 45 and if the cloth be of the fine superfine dooreas or charkana assortments, 60 days. At other stations, where cloths of higher or less value are made, the time requisite for manufacturing them is proportionally increased or diminished. A half piece of mulmul khas or of Circar All of the finest kind, costing from 70 to 80 rupees, cannot be manufactured in less than five or six months. A whole piece of Narainpore jehazy muslin, costing two rupees, can be made in the course of eight days.' ' BLEACHING. DRESSING. PACKING. " The process of bleaching is carried on in the suburbs of the town of Dacca. Abul Fazul mentions a place called Catarashoonda, in Sunargong, that was celebrated in his time for its water, which gave a peculiar whiteness to the cloths that were washed in it. A similar property is ascribed at the present day to the water found in the vicinity of Dacca, extending from Naraindeah, the place where bleaching is now principally practised, to Tezgong, about four miles distant from it. At the latter station the English, Dutch, and French had extensive bleaching grounds during the time they had factories here, but on the extinction of the foreign trade of the place Tezgong was soon deserted, and is now, to a great extent, overrun with jungle." " The water used in washing cloths at Naraindeah, is taken from wells on the bleaching- ground. In the rainy season, when the rivers are high or full, it percolates through the inter- vening fine strata of sand, and rises in the wells to within 4 or 5 feet from the surface of the ground ; but in the dry season, when the former are low, it sinks to a depth of about 18 feet, and is frequently thick and muddy and unfit for washing. Cloths are first steeped in large DACCA Ml'SLIXS. . 71 semicircular earthen vessels (v/w/ 50 Ditto 9-72 JJ 80 Ditto 12-7 >J 75 Ditto - - ... 13-5 J? 74 Ditto 13-52 J) 52 Ditto 15-3 V. 167 COTTON S.UJKI:.* 6-65 194 Ditto 6-94 )5 170 Ditto ... 9-9 J) 168 Ditto 9-28 198 Ditto 9-56 197 Ditto 10-37 186 Ditto 11-88 171 Ditto 12-89 187 Ditto 13-4 IX. 331 MUSLIN, loom-embroidered - 3-8 JJ 330 Ditto ditto 4-6 )> 328 Ditto Charkliaua 7-8 )) 325 Ditto ditto 7-14 VIII. 284 Ditto Chundaree (unbleached) 9-42 IX. 322 Ditto Arnee. Fine quality. 13-1 J) 345 Ditto ditto 17-71 )J 329 Ditto Charkhana 18-46 )) 347 Ditto ditto ..... 20-9 Ditto Arnee. Superfine quality. - - 23-78 XII. 464 CALICO. Watered Isrce. - - 2-19 468 Ditto, coarse 2-99 )) 471 Ditto Dungary cloth. 7-02 )5 463 Ditto, fine, from Raj ahmundry 9-2 )) 473 Ditto Dungaree - - 13-8 * Size determined in portion cut from centre of piece, i.e., excluding borders and ends. It will be seen from the foregoing table that the quantity of size used by the native manufacturer varies considerably, and that not in one class of goods only but in all classes. Some of the Loongees and Sarees gave as much as 12 to 15 per cent, of their weight as starch, while others yielded only 3 to 6 per cent. The details tabulated above are the results of a series of careful observations, and to persons interested in the subject will probably prove worthy of study. Our plan leads us now to the detailed account of the various piece goods, specimens of which are contained in the 18 volumes to which this work forms a key, and, undoubtedlv the first in point of interest are the muslins. MUSLINS. 75 MUSLINS. These are of various qualities, and go under different designations. We shall arrange them in groups, and begin with 1. MUSLINS. FINK ; PLAIN ; WHITE. A large proportion of these, and certainly the most famous of them, are manufactured at Dacca, and thus it happens that we are in the habit of speaking of all the very fine muslins of India as Dacca muslins. But we shall see from the table which follows, that other places in India produce fabrics of extreme delicacy and beauty, though the Dacca weaver has unques- tionably the first place, having never as yet been beaten either in India or out of it. Xo one will examine them, and marvel that they should have received such poetic names as " The Evening Dew, " The Running Water," and " The Woven Air."* " The common dimensions of a piece of Dacca muslin," says Mr. Taylor,f " are 20 yards in length by one in breadth. The number of threads in the warp is reckoned by the number of dents in the reed used in weaving the fabric; but as two threads pass through each division of this instrument, the actual number is twice that expressed by the weavers. There arc more threads in the warp than in the woof the latter being to the former, in a piece of muslin weighing 20 tolas or siccas (3500 grs.), in the proportion of 9 to 11. One end of the warp is generally fringed, four or five threads being twisted together and knotted ; and in this respect it may be remarked the Dacca muslins resemble the mummy-cloths of Egypt, both ends of which have frequently fringed borders, not unlike those of a shawl. The value of a piece of plain muslin is estimated by its length, and the number of threads in the warp, compared with its weight. The greater the length and number of threads, and the less the weight of the piece, the higher is its price. It is seldom, however, that a web of the finest muslin consists wholly of the finest thread which it is possible to spin. It is often difficult to procure a sufficient quantity of this article for the loom ; and hence it is a common practice among the weavers to manufacture a piece of what is called the finest muslin of thread of three or more degrees or shades of quality. The very fine muslins of Dacca have always been made to order, and chiefly for persons of rank and wealth in India ; and though the demand for them of late years has been extremely limited, compared with what it was in the time of the Mogul court, it has yet proved sufficient to preserve the art of making them from falling into disuse." The finest of the Dacca muslins go under the name of Mulmul Khas, or King's Muslin, and this is the one which has been used in the comparison we have instituted between the finest Indian and the finest European fabrics. It is generally made in half pieces, each measuring 10 yards by 1, and there are usually 1000 to 1800 threads in the warp. As stated in the Table p. 61, the weight of a piece 1 yard wide and 4 yards long was found to be 566 grains, and the weight of another piece, of the same width, but 10 yards 12 inches long, was found to be 1565 grains. The prices of these were at the rate of I/, per yard. The Abrawan, or Running Water, is considered the second quality, and a specimen of it will be found in Vol. VII., No. 241. The specimen in question was cut from a piece which measured 20 yards by one, and weighed 7i ounces. The price paid for the piece was 6/. 4s., or about 6*. 2d. per yard. * Though a specimen of the finest quality is not given in the Books, yet there are several examples which are certain to excite admiration. t " Dacca Cotton Manufactures," pp. 42 and 58. (3428.) N 76 PIECE GOODS. "The Hindoos," says Mr. Bolts, "amuse us with two stories, as instances of the fineness of this muslin. One, that the Emperor Aurungzebe was angry with his daughter for showing her skin through her clothes ; whereupon the young princess remonstrated in her justification, that she had seven jamahs or suits on; and another, that in the Nabob Allaverdy Khawn's time, a weaver was chastised and turned out of the city of Dacca for his neglect in not preventing his cow from eating up a piece of Abrooan, which he had spread and carelessly left on the grass."* That which is commonly regarded as third in quality is the Shabnam, or Evening Dew, of which a good specimen will be found in Vol. VII., No. 243. When spread on the ground they say it can scarcely be distinguished from dew on the grass, and hence its fanciful name. The facts regarding this muslin are as follows : A piece, 19 yards and 14 inches long and 34 inches wide, weighed 6| ounces. The price paid for it was 646-., or about 3*. 3^d. per yard. The Circar All comes next, and of it also a good specimen is given No. 242, Vol. VII. It is said to have been formerly manufactured for the Nawaubs of the province, A whole piece of this measured 20 yards, and was 1 yard in width. The weight of this piece was 6f ounces, but in this case the price has not been given. After the Circar Ali, in respect of fineness, comes the Tunzeb, so far at least as concerns the specimens given in the books ; but the Jungle Khassa and Nyansook are also muslins of considerable beauty. The weight and price of these will be found in the Table. Other muslins from the Dacca looms are known by the following names : Buddun Khas, Kumees, Jhuna (much worn by dancing women), Rang, Alaballee, and Turudam (a muslin once imported into this country under the name of Tarendam). The other examples given in the table are the productions of other parts of India. Of these the most celebrated and the best known, after those of Dacca, are the muslins of Arnee in Madras. Nos. 322, Vol. IX., and 459, Vol. XII., are beautiful specimens. The piece from which the former was cut measured 15 yards and 18 inches in length, and 52 inches in width, weighed 13 ounces ; and cost no less than 12/. 5s., or about 15s. 9|^- per yard.f No. of Description. Measurement. Weight of piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. fbs. oz. s. d. VII. 241 Abrawan, or Running Water 20 1 1\ 640 Dacca. VII. 242 Circar Ali. Fine quality 20 1 6| ,, VII. 243 Shubnam, or Evening Dew 19 14 34 o e| 340 ? VII. 244 Tunzeb. Fine quality 21 5 1 o 12! 500 VII. 245 Nyansook. Good quality, used for 19 18 1 7 1 2j 400 >! neckerchiefs, &c. VII. 246 Jungle Kharssa. Good quality 21 6 1 5 1 9i 520 vm. 286 ...... 15 30 1 2 1 2| 043 Shahabad, Patna. IX. 321 Sullah. Fine quality - 13 1 9 440 Cuddapah, Madras. IX. 322 Sullah. Superfine quality 15 18 1 16 13 12 5 Arnee, Madras. XII. 459 Chunderhana. Second quality, for 8 1 2 12 18 handkerchiefs. XII. 460 Similar to Dacca muslin in softness of 12 1 3 111 12 Hyderabad, Dec- texture. can. Bought in Madras. * Bolts' " Considerations on the Affairs of India," page 206. From " Cotton Manufactures of Dacca," pp. 44, 45. f This, ho-wever, is probably one of those instances in which the "Committee" had paid an unnaturally high price to the native manufacturers. MUSLINS 77 2. MUSLINS. DOOREEA, OR STRIPED ; WHITE. The Dooreea, or Striped Muslin, is stated to derive its name from each thread in the stripes being composed of two threads twisted together. No. 249, Vol. VII., is from Dacca. The length of the piece from which it was cut was 10 yards, the width 1 yard, and it weighed 13| oz. Its cost was ll. 4s., or about 2*. 4|rf. per yard. The five other examples given in the books and referred to in the Table, are from as many different places, and four of them are admirable examples of their kind. No. of Description. Measurement. Weight of piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. y\~. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. s. d. VII. 247 Bleached. Striped in the loom (eight 13 14 28 10 Gwalior. stripes to the inch). VII. 248 Bleached. Striped in the loom (triple stripes inch wide aiid inch apart.) 10 6 1 12 Radnagore. VII. 249 Bleached. Very fine. Striped in the 10 1 13| 1 4 Dacca. loom. Stripes very fine, 14 to the inch. vm. 281 Coarse, unbleached. Small |-inch warp 14 18 301 2 2 036 Nagpore, Berar. stripes, inch apart. A piece com- prises four lengths of 3 yds. 22 ins. There is a fag between each piece. IX. 323 Dorreea Sullah, bleached. Stripe inch wide, and in. apart, formed by six narrow lines in the warp, 10 18 27 15 060 Hyderabad, Dec- can. Bought in Madras. IX. 324 Good quality, bleached. 1-^-inch stripe, 14 1 4 1 4 15 Arnee, Madras. formed by 12 thread lines in the warp. N2 78 PIECE GOODS. 3. MUSLINS. CHARKANA, OR CHEQUERED ; WHITE. The Charkana, or chequered muslins, is, as regards manufacture, very similar to the Dooreea. They differ in the breadth of the stripes, their closeness to each other, and the size of the squares. These muslins, according to Taylor, are thought to have been " included among the Indian cloths called diakrossia in the ' Periplus of the Erythrian Sea ' a term which is rendered striped by Apollonius." Nos. 250 and 251, Vol. VII., from Dacca, and Nos. 327 and 329, Vol. IX., from Arnee, Madras, are admirable examples of their kind. The subjoined table affords the requisite particulars regarding this class of muslins. No. of Description. Measurement. Weight of piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. s. d. VET. 250 Good quality. Check. A fine lined stripe 9 26 351 15 1 Dacca. ^ inch wide, and ^ inch apart in weft and warp. VII. 251 Check. A f-inch lined stripe, 2| in. 9 29 I 10 1 SJ apart, in weft and warp. VIII. 282 Coarse, unbleached. Small check of eight 14 18 241 2 Of 036 Nagpore, Berar. lines to an inch. A piece comprises four lengths of 3 yds. 22^ inches each, woven with a fag between. IX. 325 Charkana Sullah. Small check 7 33 1 4 5 10 Arnee, Madras. IX. 326 Charkana Sullah. Ditto 7 34 1 1 5 10 IX. 327 Charkana Sullah. Fine quality. Check. 10 1 4 9 1 4 6 Double line at ^ inch distances. IX. 328 Charkana Sullah. Coarse. Check. 13 1 2 1 14 080 Nellore, Madras. Double line at inch distances. IX. 329 Charhana Sullah. Finest quality. 15 18 1 4 1 2 4 11 Arnee, Madras. Check, ^-inch cross stripe 1^ inch apart. MUSLINS. 79 !. MCSLINS. JAMDANEE OR FIGURED. The Jamdanee or loom-figured muslins, from the exquisite delicacy of manipulation which many of them display, may be considered the chef- 39 2| ins. apart. IX. 335 Check formed by a -|-inch stripe of 7 30 1 040 Chicacole, 4 pink lines 1^ inch apart. Madras. a IX. 336 H 14 ,' Check formed by -inch blue stripes, 7 32 1 040 SJ 1 1^ ins. apart. a IX. 338 Check formed by narrow red lines, 7 18 1 1 10 030 Arnee, Madras. J-inch apart. \ IX. 339 Check formed by narrow red stripes, 7 32 15 040 Chicacole, -inch apart. Madras. IX. 340 Similar to the last, except that the 7 32 151 040 colour is green. IX. 341 Check formed by narrow dark blue 15 1 2 1 5 15 Arnee, Madras. stripes, J inch apart. IX. 342 _ Similar to 341, but in red. 15 30 1 3 060 Chicacole, Madras. vni. 308 "Pattern, an outline check of blue, 7 25 29 1 01 _ Benares. every other row of squares being dotted with spots alternately red and blue. a VIII. 309 p} A small dark blue figure, with crim- 8 1 1 1 H Benares. o *\ son centre in diagonal order, and at Tr-inch distances. IX. 331 Figure. Green and crimson flower 16 31 1 3 14 Chicacole, in diagonal order, at 2 inch dis- Madras. tances. MUSLINS. 6. MUSLINS. PRINTED. 81 No. of Description. Measurement. Weight of Piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. & s. d. IX. 344 Black ground, square red spots, with 4 9 1 7 040 Trichinopoly, yellow centres, alternating with triple Madras. spots of white. IX. 345 Crimson ground, 2-inch squares formed 4 18 1 7 040 Ditto. by cross diagonal rows of square green spots, with central dotted circular figure. IX. 346 Black ground, squares formed by white 4 18 1 o 71 040 Ditto. spots, cucli square enclosing four square red spots, with yellow centiv. IX. 347 Crimson ground, irregular squares of 4 18 1 6i 040 Madras. yellow spots, each square enclosing four green spots and a circular centre of yellow spots. IX. 348 Black ground, 1^ inch square, formed 4 18 1 71 050 Ditto. by diagonal rows of alternately square spots (.red), and triple spot (yellow), with a circular centre figure of white spots. rx. 349 Crimson ground, angulated cross stripes 4 27 38 6 040 Ditto. of white spots, with square green spots in similar order intervening. IX. 350 Crimson ground, curved scroll and 4 18 1 2 6| 040 Cuddapah, straight lines of white spots, inter- Madras. spersed with square green spots, with yellow centres. 7. MUSLINS. GOLD AND SILVER PRINTED. For a description of the process by which this kind of ornamentation is effected, see p. 19. It will be observed that in two of the examples referred to in the table the paint-brush has been employed in order to produce effect. \ No. of Description. Measurement. Weight of Piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. s. d. vn. 271 Plain white muslin, flower printed in gold in diagonal order, at 1^-inch distances. 9 27 1 25 1 Jeypore, Rajpoo- tana. vn. 272' Dyed muslin. Dotted diagonal lines in silver, forming squares, each enclo- 33 1 5 3 046 Hyderabad, Deccan. sing a spot of silver, the centre of each spot being dotted (by hand) with a small scarlet spot, ticked with black. vn. 273 Piece incomplete. Dyed muslin. A star 33 1 7 3 046 Hyderabad, pattern in silver, in diagonal order at Deccan. 1^-inch distances, encircled by dotted wreath-shaped pattern. In centre of each flower a dark green and black spot, painted by hand. Border* (11 in.) a scroll flower pattern, with " Kutar " pattern in inner edge, printed in silver, and striped by hand with green and black. * Only some of the examples in the books show this. 82 PIECE GOODS. CALICOES, &c. We have now to speak of the Calicoes and other cotton fabrics, which at one time occupied such an important place in the list of exports from India to this and other European countries.* It is not our purpose to enter here into the question of the value of the trade in textiles now existing between India and other parts of the world, but the facts shown in the following Table are so suggestive that we have been induced to include it in the present work. As contrasted with the value of the cotton goods imported into India, the value of those exported from it to other countries is comparatively small. It is interesting to observe, however, that during the 15 years comprehended in the Table, the total value of the exports of cotton manufactures from India, so far from declining, has actually increased. It will be observed that the value of the calicoes and yarns she sends to Great Britain varies considerably from year to year, and has, on the whole, diminished. This diminution during the two years 1863-4 and 1864-5 has, however, been much more than balanced by increased exports to China, Arabia, Persia, and other parts. TABLE showing the VALUE of COTTON GOODS (including TWIST and YAKN) exported from India and each Presidency to all parts of the World from 1850-51 to 1864-5. COUNTRIES TO WHICH EXPORTED. Years. Whence Exported. United Kingdom. France. Other parts of Europe. America. China. Arabian and Persian Gulfs. Other parts. Value of Total Exported to all parts. Value. Value. Value. Value. Value. Value. Value. & Bengal - 917 4 942 1,289 17,364 93,403 113,919 1 850-5 !< Madras - Bombay - 46,054 1,830 246 54 12 1,442 3,261 267,992 125,106 77,735 174,733 348,999 I ALL INDIA 48,801 250 996 2,743 288,617 296,244 637,651 r Bengal - 794 861 929 11,908 103,046 117,538 1851-52^ Madras - Bombay - 70,163 11 1 2 774 3,087 305,862 132,562 118,493 205,814 425,141 L ALL INDIA 70,968 862 !>705 320,857 354,101 748,493 r Bengal - 461 40 1,572 8,310 13,990 99,948 124,321 1852-53 J Madras - Bombay - 136,095 66 113 112 1 56 1,749 1,521 411,663 123,981 130,379 261,767 543,969 I ALL INDIA 136,622 225 40 J-573 10,115 427,174 354,308 930,057 r Bengal 4,681 35 2,775 474 16,246 16,125 40,336 j Madras - 102,607 - 1 2,077 105,262 209,946 K53-54< Bombay - 818 353 363,460 154,226 518,857 L ALL INDIA 108,106 35 2,776 827 381,783 275,6i3 769,139 r Bengal - 15,018 270 758 20,125 16,722 52,893 1854-55^ Madras - Bombay - 68,050 512 3,592 700 392,965 114,405 183,986 1 S3, 155 581,055 L ALL INDIA 83,580 270 4,350 413,790 3'5,H3 817,103 r Bengal - 1,440 814 423 89 1,006 11,288 16,124 31,184 1855-56^ Madras - Bombay - - - 35,410 288 39 , , 253 553 648 431,386 97,532 181,944 133,882 614,171 L ALL INDIA 37,'3 8 853 423 342 ',559 443,322 295,600 779> 2 37 f Bengal - 5,352 224 185 104 328 33,117 13,226 52,536 J Madras - 39,952 42 40 2 1.086 84,599 125,721 1856-57^ Bombay - 30 878 493,443 208,216 702,567 L ALL INDIA 45,334 266 '85 144 1,208 527,646 306,041 880,824 f Bengal - 1,504 10 350 345 29,210 24,939 25,315 81,673 1 K^7 f P J Madras - - - 33,515 98 1,246 94,197 129,056 1OO itjC s Bombay - 78 2,425 428,534 167,417 598,454 L ALL INDIA 35-097 1 08 350 345 31,635 454,719 286,929 809,183 * Muslins were also exported to a considerable extent. CALICOES. 83 TABLE showing the YM.I i f COTTON: (OODS, &c. exported I'roin Iixliji tVuni IH.jO-.jl t<> 18(54-65 continued. COUNTIIIES TO WHICH KxrouTED. Years. Whence Exported. United Kingdom. France. Other parts of Europe. America. China. Arabian and Persian Gulfs. Other parti. Value of Total Kxported to all parts. Value. Value. Value. Value. Value. Value. Value. , Bengal 3,686 338 339 22'J 15,077 13,661 33,820 Madras - 83,594 78 987 89,460 113,119 Bombay - 17 1,198 504,836 160,614 r,r,<;,665 ALL INDIA 26,297 3,6 339 1,427 5 2I >5 263,725 813,604 Bengal - 1,510 167 35 518 4,816 10,128 9,112 26,286 Madras - 27,284 41 1 11 1 801 83,609 111,747 Bombay - 310 7,558 387,813 229,872 625,553 Ai.i, INDIA 29,104 208 46 5'9 '2,374 398,742 322,593 763,586 {Bengal - 293 5 246 1,185 3,885 16,762 22,376 Madras - 39,617 822 5 224 82,419 123,087 Bombay - 17 9,944 433,095 190,596 633,652 ALL INDIA 39,927 827 246 ",I34 437, 20 4 289,777 779,"S r Bengal - 740 156 779 8,476 10,259 20,410 1861-G2-| Madras - Bombay - 52,070 4.'ir> 1,162 r 12 6,560 1,080 359,583 91,471 213,019 145,795 579,597 [ ALL INDIA 53,245 I,3l8 7,35' 369,'39 314,749 745,802 r Bengal - 678 33 179 1,345 4,935 16,708 23,878 1862-63-j Madras - Bombay - 51,193 1,496 z 454 259 331,781 79,687 296,356 132,635 628,591 [ ALL INDIA 5'>8?i '.529 179 ',799 336,975 392,751 785,104 r Bengal - 904 958 14 6,469 13,934 97,297 119,576 1863-64^ Madras - Bombay - 23,070 513 802 z 25,158 16 582,910 103,300 307,768 127,188 916,349 I ALL INDIA 24,487 1,760 14 31,627 596,860 508,365 1,163,113 r B engal - 3,769 71 __ 153 5,773 2,118 66,992 78,876 icr< r- J Madras - 5,573 315 218 90,713 96,819 18G4 -H Bombay- 259 29,558 542,522 295,558 867,897 [ Ai.i. INDIA 9,601 386 153 35,331 544,858 453,263 1,043,592 CALICOES. BLEACHED AND UNBLEACHED. The next Table will be found to give the necessary details connected with the calicoes and other plain cotton fabrics, of which examples are given in the books. The first group in the Table will be found to refer to the common unbleached fabrics which, under names varying in different localities, constitute a large proportion of the clothing of the poor. They are also used for packing goods, and as a covering for the dead, for which last purpose a large quantity is employed both by Hindoos and Mahomedans. These fabrics in Bengal pass under the names of Garrha and Guzee. In Western and Southern India they are known under the more general term of Khadi,* which includes a greater variety in quality of material. The manufacture in India of the commoner of these fabrics is not likely to be affected by competition with European fabrics, for the native-made thread of which they consist can be sold at a less price than any similar yarn as yet exported from this country. (3428.) * Dungaree is the common Bombay designation. O 84 PIECE GOODS. The second group in the Table includes bleached goods. The first example given, No. 463, Vol. XII., is perhaps as beautiful a specimen of calico as it is possible to produce.* In this division, likewise, will be found some specimens like the ordinary Punjum cloths, which during the last century occupied such a prominent place in the exports from Madras. The usual lengths of such cloths were 38 cubits, or 18 yards, and they varied in width from 38 to 44 inches, 14 Ibs. being the common weight. Pieces of half the above-named length were exported under the name of Salempores. No. of Description. Measurement. Weight of Piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. s. d. vm. 305 'Coarse gauze-like fabric, used for Sarees, &c. (piece incomplete). 2 12 1 1 6f Benares. vm. vm. 302 303 aanov: Coarse (piece incomplete) - Gurrah cloth (ditto) 2 111 9 19 28 21 8^ 1 5f Ditto. Ditto. vm. 304 3 S3 2 Coarse 2 14 1 12 Ditto. VIII. 306 Gurrah cloth, coarse 2 12 27 3f Ditto. xn. 470 ^Punjum cloth 35 1 096 Vizagapatam, Madras. xn. 463 Tine quality, made to order 33 1 4 14 900 Eajamundry, Madras. xn. 464 Watered Isree, longcloth, good quality 11 24 1 2 4 1 6 Nellore, Madras. XII. 465 Isree, plain, longcloth. mediumquality 6 18 31 1 12 040 Vizagapatam, Madras. xn. 466 i Punjum cloth (22' s ), coarse quality - 10 9 1 4 2 5 070 Nellore, Madras. XII. 467 9 Ditto (20 >s ), (ditto) 18 18 1 2 4 14 18 Vizagapatam, vm. 297 Gurrah cloth, 1st quality 12 18 28 2 12 040 Agra, N.W. Provinces. VIII. 299 Ditto ditto 16 18 31 3 12 030 Patna. vm. 300 Ditto - 12 34 3 040 Agra. VIII. 301 JDhootee cloth 4 12 1 1 4 Bhurtpore. vm. 298 "Guzzy cloth, 2d quality 17 18 18 1 13- 020 Agra. IV. 142 f. Bleached cotton material. An imi- tation of English moleskin. 9 20 26 5 5 12 10 Loodiana, Punjab. XII. 469 MlSCELl Unbleached figured dimity for sheet- ing, called soojney. 3 1 17 1 14 063 Madras. XII. 468 Canvas bleached (kind of Duck) 12 30 5 070 Nellore, Madras. * An attempt was made to determine the length of the filaments or staple of which this and other specimens are made. The discrepancies in the results obtained led to the rejection of the great majority of the measure- ments. In the present instance it would appear that the mean length of the staple would not exceed six-tenths of an inch. COLOURED COTTON GOODS. 85 CANVAS. COTTON. The next group is one which will be regarded with interest. It embraces specimens of the fabrics used in the construction of the tents,* which for mouths of every year constitute the home of a considerable portion of the European community in India. It also embraces specimens of the canvas employed for the sails of the numerous vessels which ply between the different Eastern ports. The strength, lightness, and other good qualities of the cotton sailcloth manufactured in India recommend it to more attention than it has hitherto received in this country. The quantity of cotton annually consumed in India in the manufacture of sail and tent cloth is very large. No. of Description. Measurement Weight of Piece. Cost Place of Manufacture, or wlitn obtained. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. XII. 471a "Canvas of large Indian tent, exhi- bited in 1851. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. s. d. Jubbulpore. xn. 471 sj 5 < H Dungaree, for tents (piece incomplete) 15 Salem, Madras. XII. 474 I Dungaree. Quality occasionally used for tents. 11 23 2 6 020 vm. 307 ta H O Thick and stout, 1st quality, bleached. Orange, green, and red stripes at about a yard from end of piece. 5 22J 4 12 026 Cutch, Bombay. XII. 472 5 DO Country canvas 19 23 10 11 096 Rajahmundry, Madras. xn. 473 ^Dungaree, unbleached 16 23 6 10 060 Salem, Madras. COLOURED COTTON GOODS. We come now to the coloured cotton piece goods in which the yarn itself has been first dyed. In the arrangement of this group we have as far as possible paid attention to the function which the articles are intended to fulfil. For instance, in the Table which follows, the fabrics designed for trouserings will be found, whilst in the next are inserted those used for skirts or petticoats. It must not, however, be supposed that some of the examples so classified may not be equally suitable for both purposes or for more purposes than one ; indeed, we know that they very often are so employed what is used for skirts by the women being frequently employed as trousering by men. 1. COTTON. WOVEN WITH COLOURED THREAD ; CHIEFLY USED FOR TROUSERS. In the first division in the following Table we have included specimens showing a material and pattern called Sousee, which is chiefly employed for trousering, and which very frequently, as we afterwards shall have occasion to show, is composed of a mixture * Kathee and Salembaree are names given to the fabrics of which tents are made. o 2 86 PIECE GOODS. of cotton and silk. The patterns of these Sousee-cloths are very similar, although the product of places very distant from each other. The second group in the Table comprehends a class of goods of a considerably stouter description, and affords examples of the thick, warm stuffs which we have already stated to be so acceptable at certain periods of the year in India.* No. of Description. Measurement. Weight of Piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. s. d. II. 70 'Green ground, brown stripes (4 to the 8 9 1 1 9 076 Mylapore, or St. inch), speckled with white, made Thomas's, by Lubbays, and extensively used. Madras. II. 74 Coarse. Stripes of blue thread, 6 18 1 1 11 2 71 Kurnool, Madras, dotted with white on a chocolate coloured ground. Worn by the Lubbays. IV. 132 Blue, narrow ^ inch figured stripes, 2 32 18 61 030 Shikarpore. alternately white and crimson, and dark blue and yellow. IV. 133 Black, inch plain red stripes, | inch 2 35 17 4 023 Surat, Bombay. apart. IV. 135 ri Blue. White and crimson stripe, 2 30 18 4 020 Shikarpore, Sinde. - Ul g- inch wide, 1^ inch apart. IV. 136 p O Blue weft, blue and crimson warp, 7 31 21 14 020 Surat, Bombay. CG _. J with very narrow stripes of white 0^ and blue, 14 to the inch. IV. 137 \ O Red, striped, with very narrow white 7 22 14 020 Surat, Bombay. O lines, ^ inch apart. IV. 138 *-' Red warp, blue weft, inch stripes, 15 29 20 1 5 050 Surat, Bombay. y inch apart, of pale blue. IV. 139 Yellow, ^ inch stripes, white and 2 34 18 51 020 Shikarpore, Sind. black, inch apart. IV. 140 Pale blue, with ^ inch stripes of 3 3 18 5i 020 Surat, Bombay. white, inch apart, with inter- vening lines in dark blue, yellow, and crimson. XI. 418 Small, inch, dark blue stripe 10 20 2 2 030 Palamcottah. (warp) on a ground of white thread in the warp, and blue in the weft. XII. 453 Blue ground, with narrow stripes of 6 29 15 2 41 Coonatoor, yellow. Madras. IX. 357 Red warp, blue weft 6 9 25 101 030 Coonatoor, Madras. XII. 450 Red warp, blue weft, used for trouserings 6 26 10 030 Syempettah, and petticoats by Mahomedans. Madras. IV. 143 'Black and white striped pattern, ^ inch 3 28 1 5 1 6 Loodiana, black stripe, ^ inch apart. Punjab. IV. 144 Black and white striped pattern, blue 2 24 25 1 31 1 6 Ditto. threads running through stripe, K inch black stripe, $ inch apart. IV. 145 1 Dark blue, angulated striped pattern 3 25 1 8 1 6 Ditto. IV. 146 3 H Grey check 7 27 1 101 050 Ditto. IV. 147 1 Dark grey, black and blue cross 3 26 1 2" 1 6 Ditto. f~: stripes f inch apart. IV. 148 I* Black corded material with a dark 3 2 27 i 7* 030 Ditto. fe blue weft. IV. 149 i Small dark blue, check or plaid pattern. 3 25 111 020 Ditto. IV. 150 H O Black ground, with check of dark 6 4 25 1 51 050 Ditto. O blue, g inch lines, ^ inch apart. XII. 455 20 26 11 020 Pulicat, Madras. XL 407 Check, -inch stripes of blue in weft and warp, inch apart, with crimson line margins, on a green ground. 5 23 22 14 040 Mylapore, Madras. XL 408 Uncoloured ground. An open check of ^-inch stripes of light green, J-inch apart, with 4 intervening lines in the same colour. 6 13 25 12 6drs. 026 Coonatoor, Madras. XI. 409 A light green check, -inch stripes one way, -inch the other, on an un- coloured ground. 6 8 25 121 026 Coonatoor, Madras. XI. 410 An open check of green stripes, 1 inch apart, with double lined check of scarlet thread intervening, on an nn- coloured ground. 7 6 26 12 026 Coonatoor, Madras. i XI. 411 An open check of red stripes with blue margins, and subordinate check of two blue lines intervening, on an un- coloured ground. 6 30 26 11 026 Coonatoor, Madras. XL 412 An open check of alternate blue and crimson stripes on an uncoloured ground. 6 28 14 030 Pulicat, Madrai. XI. 413 Check. A ^-inch stripe of green and scarlet in weft and warp, with a slender green line intervening, on an uncoloured ground. 6 26 26 15 046 Teroomaly, Madras. XI. 414 Check, a blue and red stripe, f-inch in warp, rather narrower in the weft, and inch apart, with a fine white line in centre of each stripe, on an uncoloured ground. 7 26 1.5 039 Coonatoor, Madras. XL 41 Tartan pattern - 6 9 18 1 036 Matmlipatam, Madras. XI. 416 Small blue and white check 10 27 20 1 10 036 Cuddalore, Madras. XL 417 Ditto ditto 6 27 I 10 060 Ditto. XII. 454 Small black and white check 8 32 2 5 053 Masulipatam, Madras. 90 PIECE GOODS. PRINTED COTTON GOODS. The next group of cotton fabrics which we have to consider consists of those in which printing is employed. It naturally sub-divides itself into two, first those in which the pattern is printed on a white ground, and second those in which it is printed on a coloured ground. Fabrics of this character are used chiefly for women's skirts or petticoats, but they are also used for Sarees a portion of the piece, of a proper length, being cut off, and borders and ends being occasionally added. In addition to these uses they are also pretty largely employed to make counterpanes, linings for tents, &c. Among the specimens in the books there are some good and some bad, that is as regards the character and execution of the printing. They exhibit, however, in a very satisfactory manner, the style of pattern which pleases the Indian taste and which proves saleable. One characteristic of this style is that the pattern is small. Large, staring, gaudy patterns are evidently not popular. The native taste condemns and rejects them. Indeed it is clear that the principles of art are more likely to be violated when the pattern is large than when it is small. As regards execution, it will be found that Native work is not equal to European. Our machinery and appliances are more perfect, and our printing is consequently better. But while this is true, as the rule, there are marked exceptions ; and among the specimens in the Books will be found some which are as beautiful and as well finished as anything the British manufacturer can produce. The native dyer and printer has attained great skill in fixing his colours, and this point is one which deserves serious consideration. It must always be remembered that the body- clothing of the Hindu is frequently washed, and by a process which is extremely rough. It is essential, therefore, that the colours should be thoroughly fast. A failure in this entirely destroys the value of the fabric, and hence many of the prints sent from this country have fallen into disrepute, our manufacturers not having fully recognized the necessity of sending no printed goods to India but those in which all the colours are fast. Dyed and printed cotton fabrics are produced in many parts of India, or perhaps more properly speaking here and there over the whole country. Masulipatam, Arnee, and Sydapet, in the Madras Presidency, are famous for their Chefee or Chintzes.* Those of Masulipatam are known under the name of kalam-kouree (which literally means "firm colour") and exhibit great variety in style and quality. As already indicated these printed goods have been divided into two groups those in which the printing is on a white, and those in which it is on a coloured ground. These are given in the three following tables. The second of the Tables contains one specimen (Vol. VIII. 320), which is simply dyed and not printed. The third contains nothing but Palempores or bed-covers, some of which are admirable illustrations of Indian printing (151, 152, 153, 154, and 155, Vol. IV.), while others (156 and 157, Vol. IV.) can scarcely be praised. * This word (from Chhint, Hind : variegated), as well as Calico, is of Indian origin, and in that fact we have another indication of the position which India once occupied as an exporter of Cotton manufactures. COTTON Pill VI v TABLE 1. COTTON. PRINTED ; WHITE GROUND. No. of ption. Measurement, \v, (>!'] Cost niuiiiifiicture, or win-re obtaimil. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. \I!K. ills. yds. ins. 1))S. OZS. .1. (1. VIII. 310 1 ';it 1 1 TII, i-inch diagonal * tripes of flow TS, & -2*!, 1 1 1 4? Futtygurh, of two diflvivnt patterns. H-inch apart : N.V.I'. in intervening space, sprigs of flowers at ^-inch distances, also in diu nrdtT. Colours, red, greon, and black. VIII. 311 Pattern, a -inch circular flower and 5 30| 1 H 1 41 Futtygni-h. foliage in close diagonal order. Colours, green and red. VIII. 312 A we'll filled inch check pattern of small 5 3H l 1H 1 .-,\ Futtygurh. foliage and flowers in green, red, and black. X. 368 Small, close, figured pattern in red, on a 3 24 l 5 15 020 Masulipatam, white ground. Madras. X. 369 Rather coarse texture. Neat pattern, in 5 26 l l 1 5 039 Masulipatani, led and black, of flowers arranged in Madras. diagonal rows. X. 370 Good pattern and material. Pattern, a 3 27 1 2 080 Masulipatam, small neat bouquet, in red, blue, and Madras. black, in diagonal order, on a white ground of bleached cotton. X. 376 Pattern, a small red circle, in diagonal 3 18 1 6 14 2 H Pommy, . rowa at -inch distances. On this piece Madras. is a slight border of three printed red lines. X. 377 Pattern, a red flower with black stalk, 3 18 1 8 14 020 Arcot, Madras. arranged, diagonally, in rows, on a white ground dotted throughout with small black spots. X. 378 Pattern, a small red foliage and flower 3 18 1 8 14 020 Ditto. figure running throughout the piece. X. 379 Pattern (imperfectly printed), a small 3 18 1 2 12 020 Ditto. dotted figure in red. X. 381 Pattern, flowered figure in red and black, 3 18 1 5 1 020 Ditto. intersected by cross diagonal lines and curves of the same character. X. 382 Pattern, a large red flower, with black 3 18 1 12 020 Ditto. stems and foliage, in diagonal rows. X. 383 Pattern, a red stripe edged and figured 9 18 1 2 12 4 11 Ponnary, with black, and on the intervening Madras. white space or stripe, a small red flower with black foliage running throughout. X. 388 Pattern (good), a small flower in dark blue 6 1 1 5 046 Masulipatam, and red, arranged in diagonal rows. Madras. (3428.) 92 PIECE GOODS. TABLE 1. COTTON. PRINTED, &c. cont. No. of Description. Measurement, Weight of Piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample Length. Width. X. 387 Pattern, a small flower sprig in black and brown, arranged in diagonal rows. yds. ins. 5 yds. ins. 1 Ibs. oz. 15 & s. d. 020 Sydapat, Madras. X. 390 Coarse cotton. Pattern, a flowered pine, of good design, 3^ ins. in length and in close order. Colours, yellow, red, and black. 5 27 1 1 12 3 11 Ditto. X. 391 Coarse cotton. Pattern, a large flowered pine, 6^ ins. long, in black and brown, on a plain ground. 6 1 1 12 3 11 Ditto. X. 398 White ground. Print. A large flower and foliage pattern, in black and dark. 5 1 4 9 2 7i Arcot, Madras. X. 399 Print. A large leaf and scroll pattern in green and black. 5 1 4 1 3 2 11 Ditto. X. 400 Print. Well designed scroll and foliage pattern, in black and green on a white ground. 5 1 4 1 7 2 71 Ditto. TABLE 2. COTTON. PRINTED ; COLOURED GROUND. No. of Description. Measurement. Weight of piece. Cost. Place of manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. ozs. & s. d. VIII. 315 Peshgcer. A material of English thread, 5 32 1 21 040 Shikarpore, woven and. printed in India. Used Sind. for petticoats of poorer classes. A deep crimson cotton, surface coloured, with flowered pattern in black with white spots, in diagonal order. VIII. 319 Yellow cotton, surface coloured. Print, 5 26 1 1* 'l 51 Futtygurh, a small rose in red and green, in N.W.P. diagonal order. X. 372 A large pine pattern in black and white, 7 18 1 1 12 3 11 Bellary, Madras. printed on a deep red or scarlet (sur- face coloured) ground. Used for petti- coats. ' X. 373 Red ground. Pattern, a figured stripe in 4 1 6 1 1 2 71 Ponnary, Madras. black and white alternately with a small scrolled pattern of foliage and 1 flowers. X. 374 Coarse Fabric. Red ground. Pattern, 7 30 1 7 020 Arcot, Madras. a flower in white, black, and badly printed green, and arranged in diagonal rows. COTTON FEINTS. TABLE 2. COTTON. PRINTED, &c. 93 No. of Description. Measurement. Weight of 1'iiw. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or when- obtained. Vol. Sample Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. & S. (/. X. 375 Coarse fabric. Red ground, with 1-inch 9 1 2 10 4 11 Ponnary, Madras. figured stripes in black and white, f inch apart. In intervening spaces, rows of small pines in black and white, with patches of green apparently added by hand. X. 380 Imperfectly printed. Black ground, 4 18 1 4 1 3 3 11 Ponnary, Madras. with a small white star-shaped flower in the centre of a circle, formed by a small flowered pattern in red and white. X. 384 A chocolate red ground. Pattern, small 6 18 1 7 1 12 3 101 Ponnary, Madras. white dots forming zigzag strip. - running across the piece. X. 385 Dark brown ground. Pattern, a small 7 19 1 9 033 Bellary, Madras. " creeper " - like figure in white throughout, with a red flower at inter- vals, and in diagonal rows. X. 386 Deep red ground. Pattern, smallf-inch 4 1 6 1 1 2 7 Ponnary, Madras. squares, formed by black and white dotted lines ; in centre of each square a small star-shaped figure, also in black and white. X. 389 Deep red ground. Pattern, a small 5 18 1 6 1 8 3 41 Ditto. white pine in the centre of a square formed by faint diagonal lines of white spots. X. 392 Deep red ground, ^-inch stripes of dark 7 29 I 9 020 Arcot, Madras. red, not quite close together, to give the effect of a narrow white stripe on a red ground. Badly printed. X. 393 Black ground. Pattern, rows of small 9 1 2 2 8 4 11 Ponnary, Madras. white spots in diagonal order. A pattern and colour much used by the Parsees. X. 394 Eed ground. Pattern, horizontal stripes 7 31 1 12 023 Ponnary, Madras. of white spots, somewhat similar to the "flashed"' stripe in a pattern produced in silk in Benares and Hyderabad. X. 395 Coarse. A dark purple ground. Pattern, 9 1 2 10 4 11 Ponnary, Madras. horizontal zigzag stripe in white. Similar to patterns in silks from Benares and Hyderabad. X. 396 Black ground, with the small horizontal 7 9 32 1 10 023 Arcot, Madras. zigzag stripes which form a feature in some of the Mushroos from Hydera- bad, &c. X. 397 Called Gud-ka-cheet. A blue ground with 4 18 31 020 Agra. flower or pine, in black, brown and white, printed in diagonal rows. Used for petticoats by Malays of the poorer classes. vm. 320 Coarse cotton, dyed with indigo. 8 6 34 3 li 036 Beejapore. 94 PIECE GOODS. TARLE 3. COTTON. PRINTED ; PALEMPORES, OR BED-COVERS. No. of Description. Measurement. Weight of Piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. s. rl. IV. 151 Flowered pine pattern on green ground, 3 13 1 24 1 3.i Futtygurh, with 3^ inch border. Bengal. IV. 152 Flowered stripes, alternately pink, white, 3 12 1 21 1 O.| Ditto. and green, with flowered border. IV. 153 White ground, centre small flowered 3 12 1 26 151 Ditto. pattern, 3^ inch border. IV. 154 Green ground, yellow circular spots, with 6 1 7 1 li Ditto. flowered centres. IV. 155 Red ground, flowered circular pattern, 3 9 1 24 1 1 Ditto. with special borders. IV. 156 White ground, with large flowered pat- 4 21 1 18 1 4 040 Shikarpore, tern in centre, special borders and Sinde. ends. Poor example. rv. 157 Large-flowered pattern. Better print 5 1 18 1 15 060 Ditto. than No. 156, but not nearly so good as the Futtygurh specimens. Special pattern in end. IV. 160 Yellow ground, small flowers in crimson 3 8 1 22 1 8 026 Hazara, Punjab. and dark green, arranged in oblique stripes. Of four. XII. 475 Glazed chintz ; centre pattern a large 1 12 1 12 1 7 036 Masulipatam, flowered design in colours on a white Madras. ground, with a deep 11 -inch border of elaborately designed stripes of pines, flowers, and foliage in white and red coloured ground. Four woven in one piece. XII. 476 Unglazed chintz, large flowered pattern, 2 9 1 23 13 1 5 Paumodee, centre in red, green, &c., with 4 inch Madras. border. A deep (20 inch) end, with special stripes of similar design, en- closing a row of flowered pines in colours. Printed on uncoloured cotton. Two pieces sewn together, form com- plete " Palampore," or bed cover. XII. 477 Unglazed chintz, pattern a largo figure 2 1 8 1 3 Masulipatam, 4 inches in diameter, printed in black Madras. within a square formed by brown foliage pattern. At the end, a row of 6-inch figures of armed Sepoys, printed in black, and enclosed by two scrolls of foliage and flowers of good design, and printed in brown. XII. 478 Unglazed chintz, large radiated circular 2 14 1 14 13 020 Masulipatam, figure, 3 inches in diameter, in brown, Madras. within a square formed by another figure printed in black ; lOf inch bor- der, formed by foliage and flowers, with figures of birds printed in black, and enclosed by two scrolls of foliage and flowers printed in brown. COTTOX. TOWELS, BEDCOVERS, &C. 95 COTTON. MISCELLANEOUS. A number of articles have been brought together under this heading, which it was difficult otherwise to group. As they had special functions, it was thought that it might serve a useful purpose to keep them together, using function rather than quality or pattern as the basis of the grouping. They are all cotton fabrics, but some are white and others coloured. Not a few of them, such as the Table Napkins, Doyley's, and Pocket-handkerchiefs, are manufactured to suit European wants, and these illustrate the imitative power of the native manufacturer. One of the bed-covers ruzzai (433) is a specimen of Indian quilting. A considerable quantity of raw cotton is used for this purpose, as quilting is often resorted to in the northern districts in order to produce garments which will give a proper protection against the cold. Tapes form a considerable article of native manufacture, being extensively used in the making of bedsteads. The purpose to which they are applied shows that they must be strong. A width of two to three inches is common. No. of Description. Measurement. Weight of piece. Cost Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. s. (I. XII. 457 1 f-Cotton (muslin), deep border, 20 20 046 Nellore, Madras. H 1 1 (3| inches), plain stripes, woven per dozen. in material. XII. 458 1 ? X PH Q j Cotton (muslin), deep borders 20 20 080 Ditto. (31 inches), plain stripes, woven per dozen. M L in material. XL 419 ^Damask pattern, unbleached 21 21 070 Madras. per dozen. XL 420 Ditto, ditto - 19 19 080 Cuddalore, i per dozen. Madras. XI. 421 y E Diaper, small pattern, ditto 22 22 086 Ditto. < per dozen. XL 424 s CS Damask pattern, ditto - 30 29 13 Masulipatam, H per dozen. Madras. XL 428 Ditto, ditto - 23 23 030 Broach, Bombay. per dozen. XI. 426 Plain diaper, bleached 17 17 023 Masulipatam, - per dozen. Madras. XL 422 ^Huckaback, unbleached 35 35 13 Cuddaloro, . per dozen. Madras. XI. 429 Ditto, ditto 33 33 023 Broach, Bombay. per dozen. XI. 425 Diaper pattern, ditto 36 31 080 Chingleput, per dozen. Madras. XL 427 | Khadee cloth, ditto - 32 31 040 Salem, Madras. per dozen. XL 423 H Stout plain material, bleached Kha- 33 22 040 Cuddalore, dee cloth. per dozen. Madras. XL 430 Bleached small diaper pattern. A 27 25 030 From Goa, sent 3-inch border, with a flower and per dozen. from Madras. foliage scroll pattern, printed in red on plain woven fabric. Made , to order. 96 PIECE GOODS. TABLE. COTTON. MISCELLANEOUS, &c. cont. No. of Description. Measurement. Weight of Piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. & s. d. XI. 431 8 CA green stripe, checked by a faint H J blue stripe on a crimson ground. 13 13 "* 090 per dozen. Madras. o S XI. 432 l_ Crimson and blue check 13 13 083 Cuddalore, per dozen. Madras. rv. 158 "Bleached diaper pattern, diaper pat- 4 32 1 18 1 15 15 Hoshyarpore, tern woven in pink thread, and Punjab. cross stripes at ends. IV. 159 Bleached. Border, blue stripe, 7 inch 4 7 1 13 2 8 Loodiana, Punjab. blue stripe across each end. XI. 433 Cotton, quilted with the needle 2 6 1 10 2 4 .._. Hyderabad, 3 Deccan. 1 xn. 479 o Soojney, Counterpane. A large 2 9 1 4 2 046 Kurnool, Madras. 1 diaper kind of pattern, pro- B duced by weaving the design in o * bleached thread in an unbleached *m ground. End marked by a modi- 1 fication of the diaper pattern, 9 If inch of extremity quite plain, with a small fringe. w XII. 480 Soojney. A large diaper pattern 2 9 1 4 2 046 Kurnool, Madras. similar to last, but in bleached cotton on a dark red ground. End marked by a modification of this design, and a small portion of end of plain uncoloured material. Slight fringe at extremity. Called also Pulungposh. SILK. 97 SILK. We have now to illustrate the silk, or silk and cotton piece goods which form an extensive article of manufacture in many parts of India, chiefly for home consumption, but partly also for export, as will be seen by reference to the following Table A., which shows the quantities and value of the silk goods exported from India and from each Presidency to all parts of the world from 1850-51 to 1864-65. In the Tables which follow the examples in the Books, these manufactures have been grouped under four heads : (1.) In the first one are included the plain, striped, and checked fabrics, which consist of silk and cotton, and are employed for Trowserings, and occasionally also for Skirts and Choices. (2.) In the second group we have an important class of fabrics, also consisting of silk and cotton, and commonly known under the name of Mushroo, which is a satin with a cotton back. It is a favourite material, and is used in a variety of ways by the well-to-do classes for dress purposes, covering cushions, &c. Some idea of the variety and beauty of the patterns produced in this material will be gathered from an inspection of the specimens in the Books.* (3.) In the third Table are included the specimens in which silk alone is the textile material employed. These, like the others, are used for making up trowsers and other articles of attire, and also for linings. It will be observed that in the description of the different patterns, some are noted as being favourites with the Hindu, and others with the Mahomed an portion of the community.! (4.) In the fourth Table we have a few examples of printing on silk as used for the production of a class of goods in vogue amongst the Parsees and employed by them for Sarees, Trowserings, &c. No. 549, Vol. XIV., showing a dark spot in the centre of a white line, illustrates the material and pattern used for making the peculiar mitre-shaped Turban worn by the Parsees. The spots, however, on the fabrics most commonly employed are smaller than those in the specimen referred to. The white margin round the dark central spot is produced by hitching up, and tying a thread around small portions of the cloth, which on transference to the dye-trough is not affected by the * All Mushroo's wash well, especially the finer kinds. As this manufacture is principally used for Choices, petticoats, and for trousers of both sexes, washing becomes indispensable, and the dyes used are in all cases fast, not fading with time, or becoming streaky or cloudy after being wetted. In any imitation of these fabrics, the best dyes would be necessary, and such careful weaving as would enable the gloss to be preserved in the washing as in the Mushroo fabrics, otherwise they would be of no value. English or French satins are more beautiful both in colour and texture ; but it is needless to say they will not wash, and therefore would not supply the place of " Mushroos." f Stated on the authority of the Lahore Central Committee, which forwarded to the International Exhibition of 1862 a valuable collection of the patterns prevailing in the Punjab. 98 PIECE GOODS. colour employed. In many specimens the ties are very fine and close to each other, and, consequently, involve the expenditure of much time and trouble in their production. The rapidity with which the successive little portions of silk are hitched up and ligatured by an experienced hand is, however, very remarkable. This pattern is extremely difficult to imitate exactly, and, as it is one of those results in which a certain charm arises from the absence of the perfect regularity usually effected by machine operations, it is probable that it will still continue to be produced in the laborious and comparatively expensive manner just described.* The only other example of a silk material to which we would refer is that presented by No. 555, Vol. XIV., a red silk gauze, from Bhagulpore, stated to be used for mosquito curtains. The original length of the piece was 11 yards, the width 31 inches, the weight 5| ounces, and the price II. 12s. Od., a sum, probably, very considerably beyond its real value. Although the only example of a mosquito curtain material here given is of silk, it has to be mentioned that this is a very rare application, light cotton gauze or net being the article usually employed. The greater portion of the nets exported from this country are employed in the manufacture of mosquito curtains, which are extensively used in India both by Europeans and well-to-do natives. The foregoing concludes the only remarks which we have considered it necessary to make regarding the fabrics manufactured from true silk, the produce of the Bombyx mori. * That it is possible, however, to produce by machinery at least some classes of this kind of goods, was shown by the "Batiks" manufactured in Holland and shown by Previnaire et Cie., of Haarlem, in the Exhibition of 1862. SILK. EXPORTS. 99 CS o d 3 CO I o ri g -3 M S .2 rs 5 I, M W I a 6 e O o I s ', * 1 1 2 b 3 M fl B 3 5? S? 9 :; - => - o '-f.< !- W i S M B 4 f S fli M 35 S P) M iU M -- 1 1 1 S 1 o a a in B I C? I S 1 1 COU gs II 33 .= .2 If = M I ^ *0 "O ; g ^ . H o >- as -:i-?ii~N -- - s . " H * 'r -- H s O H CO n 9{ 9 8 - - S s S 2 i 1 f 35 i i II 1 i 1 1 ity. N g a N ' 5 S i ; -i ^ n H go 11 - - - H y. - S 'i . .-<*. . i - i i in eoP) i i 5 S ' r- r ( rt_ So" ^ H S o" " S H " df H II 3. ** i ii g H S H H i i S - 1 . i I i i 5 i i 2 S S r i i 5 M 8 . i i 8 S M 2 " - I 1 * li 'I H pf J 2 S s ii M i g i ' S s 2 * 5 . M 3 H 11 o H g . H SMS i i g i i i * s- M Mil 5 S g a R S 1 S 1 41 IB ss S (3428.) 100 PIECE GOODS. S O s H N B S S S " g N ~ H 10 H to m W H tt X o O H H 5 A I 1 i i 3 i i i i tity. Q <0 O ^ - i I W H i i i i i i i i i i i II So*! ID m O v " <0 "0 * H I 1 1-11 1 s 1 11 1 I 1 1 1 1 1 S 01 r H - 1 fl 5 e IA 5 ffl 2 r- s ' 1- ' s "8 s 8 i s i i 1 - 1111 i i i i 1111 aS s- - . e H *- M >-! I I I I 3 W H i l i l till g w a S H ,53 ri tity. S 1 1 O" o rt S 1 1 1 1111 till 1 1 1 1 I 1 . * -I 1 ll ii :; i i 1111 i i i i r i iiii 1111 3 ^ ft, - K H 9 WT-H 1 ' l l s l i i S l l Qu i i i i ID S i i 1111 a ii Iiii 11 S 1 * & 3 I 1 SILK AX1) COTTON. 101 1. Sir.K AND COTTON. PLAIN, STRIPED, AND CHECKED. No of Description. Measurement. Weight of Piece. Cost Place of manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. \'Is. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. s. d. XII. 447 Shot, pink silk warp and blue cotton weft. "11 15 23 14i 10 Tanjore, Madras. For ] IV. 134 "White, with nniTow lines of pale 9 18 21 1 2 10 Lahore. given silk, 10 to the inch, j inch border, a plain red silk stripe. For trowserings. IV. 141 Green cotton, with small 1 ,Vineh 5 22 21 12 040 Rutul Mudpore, yellow stripe dotted with white Punjab. thread and crimson silk, ,1- inch apart. Border (;'; inch) of deep crimson silk. For trow.-'erii IX. 355 Green cotton, with ^-inch stripes of 11 27 22 1 10 086 Tanjore, Madras. crimson and white si', in the warp \ inch apart. XII. 444 Crimson cotton, with green cotton 24 19 11 1 9 Trichinopoly, and figured yellow silk stripe-. \ per cholee Madras. w piece comprises six of this mea- piece. surement, woven with a " fag " between. For choices. XII. 446 5 Gauze, blue cotton weft, and red silk 7 23 13 14 Trichinopoly B warp, with flashed cross stripes of Madras. o white, 2 inches apart. Forpetticoats. xn. 448 H' Dark blue cotton weft, and a silk 7 33 14 080 Trichinopoly, ' warp. Pattern, black ground with Madras. 2 flashed spots, yellow and white, and a 1 !; inch figured stripes of crimson, i yellow, and white silks, inch H apart. Used for trowserings by 02 Mahomedans of both sexes. Sooseo, for trowserings. XII. 449 Dark blue cotton weft, and crimson 8 1 15 080 Syempettah, silk warp. Pattern, flashed spotted Madras. stripes in white across piece 1 inch apart. Soosee, for trowserings and dress skirts. XII. 451 Dark blue cotton weft, and crimson 7 33 12 080 Trichinopoly, silk warp. Pattern, a fine line Madras. warp stripe in white silk. Soosee, for trowserings and petticoats. xn. 452 Dark blue cotton weft, narrow stripes 11 27 1 9 080 Trichinopoly, in warp, of red and yellow silk. Madras. Soosee, for trowserings. ,rx. 352 '"Crimson silk and black and white 11 27 22 1 070 Tanjore, Madras. cotton check. IX. 353 White cotton, with green and crim- 11 27 22 1 076 Ditto. Q son silk check. IX. 356 | Rose colour silk, with small dark blue 12 22 1 096 Ditto. W < cotton check. IX. 358 I Light texture, dark blue cotton, with 11 27 22 1 090 Ditto. check of crimson silk. XIV. 542 Yellow silk in warp, all cotton weft. 10 18 28 1 61 __ Agra, N.W.P. Pattern, a small faint red check. 102 PIECK GOODS. 2. SILK AND COTTON. MUSHROO OR SATIN ; PLAIN, STRIPED, AND FIGURED. 1 No. of Description. Measurement. Weight of Piece. Cost. Place of manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. s. d. XIII. 500 Plain rose pink colour - 5 31 31 1 2 1 18 Hyderabad, Deccan. XIII. 507 Plain dark green 5 37 301 1 21 1 16 Hyderabad, Deccan. XIII. 510 Plain crimson - 6 32 1 4 1 16 Hyderabad, Deccan. xi n. 514 Ditto, lighter shade than last example - 4 22 31 101 1 18 Hyderabad, t Deccan, bought in Madras. XIII. 515 Plain white 4 16 321 15 1 9 Hyderabad, Deccau. XIII. 486 Crimson, with a loom embroidered 5 19 32 1 101 200 Hyderabad, flower (2 inches in length) in green Deccan, and yellow silks. bought in Madras. XIII. 487 Deep purple, flowered with crimson, 5 301 1 7 200 Hyderabad, white, green, and yellow. Deccan, bought in Madras. XIII. 492 Deep crimson, with figured white silk 4 24 29 11 Oil 6 Tanjore, Madras. stripes. XIII. 493 Yellow, and deep crimson stripes, with 6 15 1 1 10i 16 Tanjore, Madras. spots of white. XIII. 494 A bronze coloured ground, with figured 6 30 1 1 2 1 16 Hyderabad, green stripes. Deccan, bought in Madras. XIII. 495 Deep purple ground, striped with a narrow 6 9 33 1 7 16 Tanjore, Madras. line of yellow, dotted with crimson. Across the piece are zigzag stripes of white silk, tinged with crimson. XIII. 496 Stripes of plain crimson, yellow, and 5 1 1 10 17 Trichinopoly, green (the last named with a central Madras. line of red), divided by figured and flowered stripes in crimson, yellow, and white silks. . xnr. 497 Dark green ground, with cross stripes of 6 31 1 41 1 7 Hyderabad, flashed spots in white. XIII. 498 Figured stripes, separated alternately by 5 1 1 5 17 Trichinopoly, plain green, blue, and yellow stripes, Madras. with central line of crimson and red, and a plain crimson stripe, with yellow central line. SILK AND COTTON. TABLE 2. continued. 103 No. of Description. Measurement. Weight of piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. ': ,-. d. XIII. 499 Yellow, with figured stripes. Same 5 32 301 1 4 1 18 Hyderabad, pattern as No. 494. Deccan. XIII. 501 Crimson, with small zigzag cross stripes 6 32 1 31 1 16 Hyderabad, in white silk. Deccan, bought in Madras. XIII. 502 A deep purple, with a shaded stripe in 3 20 34 13 0110 Trichinopoly, the warp. Madras. XIII. 503 Crimson, with small zigzag cross stripes 6 9 33 1 9 17 Trichinopoly, in white silk. Madras. XIII. 504 Crimson, with cross stripes of flashed 5 31 26 1 2 1 18 Hyderabad, spots in yellow silk. Deecan. XIII. 505 Figured stripes in orange, yellow, and 6 41 341 1 Hi 1 Tanjore, Madras. crimson ; the intervening spaces alter- nately green, purple, and crimson, through which (but intersected by the figured stripe) run zigzag cross stripes of yellow on the green, and white on the purple and crimson ground colour. XIII. 506 Purple, with a zigzag cross stripe of 4 27 35 1 6 17 Trichinopoly, white like 501 and 503, but tinged Madras. with crimson. XIII. 508 Dark crimson, with narrow white lines 5 1 1 5 17 Trichinopoly, in warp, 1 inch apart. Madras. XIII. 509 Orange, with narrow stripes of white, 6 15 1 2 7 18 Tanjore, Madras. with dark crimson edges. XIII. 511 Bright yellow, with narrow figured stripes in crimson, yellow, white, and 5 27 27 1 6 1 16 Hyderabad. purple silks ; the intervening spaces dotted with rows of flashed spots, alter- nately crimson and green, arranged to run in diagonal order throughout piece. XIII. 512 Rose pink, with figured stripes, of pat- 5 33 30 1 1 1 15 Hyderabad, tern similar to 494 and 499. Deccan, bought in Madras. XIII. 513 Plain amber colour, with stripes figured with flashed spots of an arrow-head 6 14 1 1 6 14 Trichinopoly, Madras. shape, in green, crimson, and yellow silk. 104 PIECE GOODS. 3. SILK. PLAIN, STRIPED, CHECKED, AND FIGURED. No. of Description. Measurement. Weight of piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. 07. s. d. xrv. 521 "Red. Stout fabric. Extensively 17 15 2H 2 9| 300 Lahore. used in the Punjab for making up, mid also for lining garments. Fa- vourite old Mahomedan colour. XIV. 522 Shot. Blue warp, crimson weft. Fa- 13 9 211 1 81 1 16 Lahore. vourite Hindu colour. xrv. 523 f: Light green. Favourite Mahomedan 15 31 201 2 1 300 Lahore. 3r colour. xrv. 524 fi Shot. Crimson warp, blue weft. 24 201 2 8 390 Lahore. Favourite Hindu colour. XIV. 532 Rose-coloured. " Golabee Dur- 6 11 13 4 10 6 Agra, N.W.P. reeaee." XIV. 540 Pink. "Yeolah." Thin texture - 11 1 5 1 3 573 Ahmednugger, Bombay. xrv. 541 ^Bright yellow 39 18 111 1 01 1 9 81 Agra. IV. 131 Yellow, with f -inch stripes of deep 6 17 28 12 18 101 Deyra Ishmael crimson. In 2-inch space between Khan. each, eight narrow black and white stripes. Used for trowserings. rx. 354 Deep crimson, striped with dark blue 9 30 10 18 Tanjore, Madras. fine lines, 15 to the inch. Used for trowserings. XIII. 516 Red ground, with figured zigzag 9 4 37 14 1 10 Trichinopoly, stripes. For trowserings. Madras. xni. 517 Red ground, with flowered stripes in 8 27 35 1 2 220 Trichinopoly, white and yellow. In centre of Madras. intervening spaces a double line of yellow with a centre tinged by an underthread of blue. For trow- serings. XIII. 518 Green, with flashed spots faintly 11 33 141 200 Trichinopoly, marked in yellow running in rows Madras. across piece. Used for trow- serings, &c. xni. 519 Stripes of orange, yellow, red, and 9 34 12 17 Trichinopoly, green crosswise through the piece, Madras. and, intersected by the orange and yellow stripe, a series of flashed spots in white and yellow. For trowserings. XIII. 520 Q P P > Amber-coloured, with faint longitu- 9 6 34 111 19 Tanjore, Madras. ** s dinal lines of white, inch apart. GO For trowserings. XIV. 525 Deep crimson, with narrow warp 17 33 211 2 7 300 Lahore. lines of green, f inch apart. Old Mahomedan pattern. XIV. 526 Yellow, with narrow warp lines of 15 22 2 3 460 Lahore. red, inch apart. Old Hindu pattern. xrv. 527 Deep crimson, with narrow warp 18 211 2 8 360 Lahore. lines of white, f inch apart. Fa- vourite Hindu pattern. xrv. 528 Green, with narrow warp lines of 16 15 21 2 21 300 Lahore. red, f inch apart. Old Hindu pattern. SILK. TABLE 3. continued. 105 No. of Description. Measurement Weight of piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ihs. oz. s. d. XIV. 529 Plum-coloured, with narrow warp "l,j 2<> 21 2 5 2 16 Lahore. lines of yellow, f inch apart. Old Hindu pattern. XIV. 530 Shot. Pink weft. Light blue warp, 16 18 21 1 13 260 Lahore. with narrow lines of red, f inch apart. Old Mahomedan pattern. xrv. 531 Shot. Crimson weft. Blue warp, 8 19 lOf 126 Deyra Ishmael with narrow lines of yellow, -,'V of Khan. an inch apart. Old Hindu pattern. XIV. 537 White ground, with ^-inch stripes of 5 18 31 111 Bhawulpore, yellow and red, alternately with a Punjab. ^-inch stripe of purple, }$ inch apart. XIV. 538 Elaiche. A rose-crimson ground 19 11 19 1 5 1 14 Agra. with narrow warp lines of white, inch apart. Old Hindu pattern. XIV. 539 Durreeaee. Yellow ground, with 14 14 11 6 10 6 Agra. cross stripe of red and green alter- nately with a double line stripe of a reddish-brown colour. XIV. 546 Green, pink, yellow, and crimson 8 26 027* 1 U Pegu. stripes. A peculiar pattern, with a flashed angulated figure through- out. rx. 351 fTartan pattern 9 22 15 1 2 Tanjore, Madras. XIV. 533 Sungee Charhhanah. Check pattern. 4 33 27 7| 1 10 Benares. The various coloured stripes crossed by small angulated lines also of different tints. Q XIV. 535 g< White silk, with faint lavender-colour 15 1 1 101 Bhagulpore. W stripes in the warp checked by 5 1-inch stripes of a dark purple colour in the weft. XIV. 536 White silk, with open check formed 15 1 1 10 __ Berhampore. by a broad and a narrow stripe of purple. XJLL1. 485 "Silk brocade. Green ground, with 5 14 31 1 8 Hyderabad, Dec- closely studded pattern of a small can. Bought in star-shaped flower in white silk, Madras. | with central spot in crimson silk. xrv. 534 Pink ground, with stripes (^ inch 5 32 28 151 __ Bhawulpore, N wide and inch apart), figured Punjab. with a circular flower pattern in crimson silk, and margins formed by a yellow and black dotted line. 106 PIECE GOODS. 4. SILK. PRINTED. No. of Description. Measurement. Weight of Piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. K. d. XIV. 548 Lake mcenia. Blue. Pattern, a cir- 1 11 1 21 5| 060 Surat, Bombay, cular flower in light green, arranged diagonally, and interspersed with small round spot of same colour. Border, 12 inches wide, scroll, with "Kutar" inner edge ; all in circular red spots. XIV. 549 " Black Laho," black ground. Pattern, 1 10 29 If 060 Surat, Bombay. square dark red spots, with inner circle of white and central dot of black, ar- ranged in irregular diagonal order. Border, 2 inches wide, of crimson silk, pattern marked in white spots, with dotted centre. Whole surface glazed subsequent to printing. XIV. 550 Crimson silk. Pattern (arranged in dia- 3H 30 02030 Surat, Bombay. gonal rows) a white spot, with crimson central dot ; larger design than the foregoing. Border, 3 inches wide, black, with figured pattern formed by white spots with dotted centre, inter- spersed with red spots, with inner circle of white and central speck of black. XIV. 551 Deep purple ground. Pattern, a check 32 31 2 053 Surat, Bombay. formed by cross diagonal rows (J inch apart) of dark red circular spots, in each square of the check four similar spots. Border, 2 inches wide, a dotted scroll pattern, with " Kutar " inner edge. WILD SILKS. In the Table which follows are included the examples given in the Books of Textiles made from what, in contradistinction to the foregoing, or cultivated variety, may be called Wild Silks. Of these the Tussur, Eria, and Moonga are the most common, and fabrics made of some of them and particularly of the Moonga have probably been known in the East from time immemorial. Although Tussur is the variety of wild silk best known in this country, the Moonga, from its superiority in point of gloss and other qualities, is that most commonly employed, especially for the manufacture of mixed fabrics, and for some kinds of embroidery. No. 2Q4, Vol. VIIL, is an example of a fabric consisting of cotton striped with Moonga silk. Mixed fabrics of this description are stated by Taylor to form the fourth class of the Textile manufactures of Dacca, the cotton yarn used in their manufacture ranging from 30 s to 80 s . The Silk Muga or Moonga is imported into Dacca from Sylhet and Assam. It is prepared for the loom by being first steeped in water mixed with powdered turmeric, and afterwards in lime juice. It is next rinsed, dried, and sized with paste made of parched rice and water, without an admixture of lime, and then reeled and warped in the same manner as cotton thread. The cloths of this class are of considerable variety both as WILD SILKS. 107 regards texture and pattern. Some consist chiefly of cotton, with only a silk border or a silk flower or figure, in each corner ; others are striped, chequered, or figured with silk throughout the body of the cloth. The different varieties may amount to thirty in number, but the principal ones are the Kutuwroomec, Noiclittee, Azeezoola, and Lmhuck. These cloths are made exclusively for the markets of Arabia. Some, indeed, are occasionally shipped to Rangoon, Penang, and places to the eastward, but the far greater portion of them is exported to Jidda, whence they are sent into the interior of the country. A considerable quantity of them is sold at the annual fair held at Meena, in the vicinity of Mecca. They arc made into turbans, gowns, vests, &c. by the Arabs. They were formerly transported from Jidda to Egypt, and were at one time the principal articles of export from Dacca to Bassora, whence they were sent to various parts of Mesopotamia and to Constantinople. Of the Eria, two examples of fabrics from which (Nos. 559 and 560, Vol. XIV.) are given, little need here be said. Although possessed of great durability, the Eria, like the Tussur, is defective in the gloss which gives such beauty to true silk. No. of Measurement. Place of Description. Weight of Piece. Cost. Manufacture, or where Vol. Sample. Length. Width. obtained. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. s. d. XIV. 556 Tussur silk, plain 10 18 1 1 1 15J 15 101 Warungul, Deccan. XIV. 557 Tussur silk, dyed. Grey warp and blue 11 26 1 H 13 Bhagulpore, weft. A twilled mute-rial. XIV. 558 Tussur silk, a large coloured check or 9 18 251 1 4 13 Bhagulpore. plaid on a blue ground, woven in coloured Tussur thread. XIV. 559 Eria silk, " Dooklee," a coarse material 4 34 1 f> 040 Cachar. in uncoloiircd thread. XIV. 560 Eria silk " Endi," a coarse material of 3 2 1 4 1 4 Darjeeling. dyed Eria silk, dyed chocolate red. VIII. 294 Cotton, with $ inch stripes of Moonga 4 16 I 8 Dacca. silk in the warp, inch apart. - The following description, by Buchanan, of the preparation of Tussur (or, as he renders it, Tasar) thread and its manufacture in Bhagulpore, although given with a certain reservation as to the accuracy of some of the details, will be read with interest, It has to be premised, however, that the description here given refers to a period long anterior to the present. " Of the weavers who work in Tasar silk, a few weave cloth entirely of that material, but the quantity is so trifling that I shall take no further notice of it, and confine myself to detail the accounts of the mixed cloth . Green silk. In the warp, narrow i (|-inch) stripes of white with a 4 23 1 1 1 400 Sattara, Deccan. O crimson centre line, inch apart, a checked by a similar but faint stripe in the weft. 3-inch border 3 of rich flowered gold lace pattern I in crimson silk, with green silk H marginal lines. For choices. CO VI. 204 1 Crimson silk. Narrow dotted white and black stripes ( inch apart) in 4 21 1 14i 400 Sattara, Deccan. QQ the warp, checked by similar lines in the weft, but in white only inch apart. 3-inch border of gold flowered lace pattern in crim- son silk, with green silk marginal . . lines. For choices. xn. 441 a r Deep crimson silk, with (^ inch apart) small stripes of green silk 17 29 11 1 9 Tanjore, Madras. d into which two threads of gold are co introduced in the warp. Six of 9 these for six choices, woven with a a fag between, constitute one piece. XII. 442 a H Pattern, small crimson silk stripes ($ inch apart), into which two 17 29 o H 1 9 Tanjore, Madras. j- silver threads are introduced. The a ground is of blue silk warp and B red silk weft, with a dotted angular Tf\ figure in the blue silk of the warp. ( A piece comprises six of this measurement, woven with a con- fj necting fag. xn. 443 Pattern, small crimson silk stripes, ^ inch apart, into which two 17 29 11 1 9 Taajore, Madras. silver threads are introduced. The ground of green silk warp and crimson weft, woven with a small green dotted figure. Six of these form a piece. 112 LOOM-EMBROIDERIES. No. of Description. Measurement Weight of piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. s. d. XIII. 488 "Green ground, deep crimson stripe, 4 18 35 1 12 220 Trichinopoly, 2|- inches wide, with lace pattern Madras. edges in yellow silks, and scroll and flower pattern centre in gold thread. In the intervening spaces a 1 : ,'-inch flower in yellow silk and q gold thread alternating with a 1 small circular flower in gold a 3 thread. q XIII. 489 a Deep purple ground, and figured 4 27 24 14 240 Trichinopoly, stripe (f inch wide) in yellow and Madras. 9 -^ crimson silk. In the intervening i space a flower sprig in gold thread p i alternating with two small circular i 3 flowers, also in gold thread. E| XIII. 490 Green ground,with small ^-inch stripes of gold thread and crimson silk. 6 28 1 5 Hyderabad, Deccan. XIII. 491 Deep purple ground, striped with 4 18 24 14 240 Tanjore, Madras. lines of white silk. In the interven- ing spaces a series of i-inch circular spots in gold thread, arranged in diagonal order across piece. VII. 275 'Lavender-coloured silk gauze, with 4 20 34 2 4i _ Benares, N.W.P. f-inch flowered stripes (1 inch apart) in diagonal order. The flower in the stripe repeated be- tween the stripes in three rows, closely woven in similar diagonal order, viz., left to right. The whole of the pattern in gold thread. XIII. 481 A O Deep crimson silk (satin), with rows 5 26 11 2 16 Trichinopoly, o 2 of flower sprigs in gold thread, Madias. 2. intersected by a double row of Q smaller circular flowers, also in gold thread. Made up into all kinds 2 of garments for both sexes of the fi richer classes. XIII. 482 s o Deep purple silk, with longitudinal 5 9 34 15 1 11 Tanjore, Madras. O. 1 figured stripes in crimson silk and i gold thread. In the intervening spaces a row of small pines in gold thread alternating with a small figured spot in silver. XIII. 483 Deep crimson silk (satin). A richly 4 27 24 14 300 Trichinopoly, figured pattern in gold thread, en- Madras. closing a flowered design, of which the upper portion is in gold thread and the lower part or base of the figure is in bright green and yellow floss silks. XIII 484 Deep purple silk. A flowered pine- 5 27 11 2 10 Trichinopoly, shaped figure in gold thread, in Madras. rows 4 inches apart, with two rows of a circular (^-inch) flower, and three rows of smaller spots, all worked in gold thread in the intervening spaces. Used for dress skirts. GOLD AND SILVER TISSUES. J13 GOLD AND SILVER TISSUES. In these Tissues the flattened wire called Taash instead of being twisted round silk thread, is itself used the warp or the weft, as the case may be, being of very fine silk thread, so as to interfere as little as possible with the continuity of the surface presented by the metal. It is thus that the cloths of gold and silver, of which we hear in Eastern countries, are made. These are employed in India by the rich as sashes, for mantles to throw round their children's shoulders, for marriage garments, &c. An examina- tion of the examples given in the books and described in the Table below will afford a good idea of this class of fabrics. No. of Description. Measurement. Weight Of Pil'cr. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or whence procured. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. s. d. vn. 261 Q Fine crimson silk weft, warp of flat- 2 31 24 5 about. Hyderabad, 5 tened gold wire. 1 16 Deccan. & (No. 270 illustrates the use of this K kind of cloth as a basis for hand g Q % w embroidery.) vn. 263 cc a .,- P1 Fine crimson silk weft, waip of gold, 2 33 261 5| Hyderabad, K o 5iC and striped with crimson silk cord. about. Deccan. vn. 265 ^ P-i Fine crimson silk weft, warp of gold 2 25 4 1 16 Hyderabad, I striped with green silk cord. Deccan. vn. 268 1 Wnrp of crimson silk, weft of gold 1 9 28 51 Moorshedabad, O a k (figured). Bengal. VII. 262 Fine white silk weft, warp of flattened 2 32 231 5 Hyderabad, silver wire. Dec can. vn. 264 3 H Fine white silk weft, warp of silver - 1 22i If Hyderabad, CO 2 Deccan. vn. 267 5 . Warp of white silk, weft of silver - 1 4 331 41 Moorshedabad, Bengal. vu. 266 1 Fine white silk weft, warp of silver, 2 33 24 51 Hyderabad, g" striped with crimson silk cord. Deccan. vn. 269 Warp of white silk, weft of silver, 1 8 31 o 51 Moorshedabad, 1 square figured pattern. Bengal. In addition to these tissues, gold and silver lace is made in some quantity at Benares, Aurungabad, Boorhampore, Moorshedabad, Patna, Surat, and other places. It is of two kinds. That called Kenari is from one to three inches in width, whilst the Gota is only from \ to -| of an inch in breadth. The gold and silver wire is usually of a superior quality. Occasionally, however, an inferior article of gilt or silvered copper wire is employed. Of the importance of using only the very best materials in the manufacture of articles likely to be subjected to the operation of washing, we have already spoken. In the India Museum Collection is a loom-embroidered fabric from Thibet, to which some allusion may here be made. It has been received under the name of Tachu, and its ornamentation has been effected by using a weft of gilt paper, which has been cut into very narrow strips for the purpose. 114 PIECE GOODS. HAND-EMBROIDERY. We have now to speak of Hand or Needle Embroidery, a kind of work in which the Native shows admirable skill, and one which, in all probability, is destined yet to occupy a somewhat important place amongst the list of manufactured articles exported from India to this and to other European countries. A few examples of this sort of embroidery have been inserted in the books, and are classed in the two following Tables, but, just as in the case of the fabrics last con- sidered, these are not calculated to afford an adequate notion of the immense number of ways in which not merely the professional embroiderer, but many of the native ladies of Hindustan, produce patterns of exquisite taste and skill. Every kind of fabric, from the coarsest muslin to the richest cashmere cloth, is thus decorated ; and though Dacca and Delhi are the places best known for their embroideries, there are numerous other places in India in which the workers are equally skilful. Dacca, however, has for a very long time been celebrated for its Zar-do-zi or embroidery. "From Dacca," says the Abbe de Guyon, writing in 1774, "come the best and finest Indian embroideries in gold, silver, or silk, and those embroidered neckcloths and fine muslins which are seen in France." The art is considered to have been first introduced into Bengal from the banks of the Euphrates. On this subject, Taylor remarks that, " In the ninth century the merchants of Bussora carried on a direct trade with Eastern India and China. Many Mahomedans settled at this time in the principal ports of these countries, and, doubtless, they intro- duced from the West such arts, and, among others, that of embroidery, as were required to prepare the goods suited to the markets of Arabia. This conjecture," he adds, " regard- ing the origin of embroidery in Bengal, is, in addition to the fact of this art being only practised by Mahomedans, further strengthened by the tradition at Dacca that the needles formerly used there were procured from Bussora ; and likewise by the circumstance of Bussora and Jidda having been, from time immemorial, the great marts for the embroidered goods of Bengal."* The following is the description given by Taylor of the embroidery frame, the manner of working, &c. : " The cloth is stretched out in a horizontal bamboo frame of rude construction, raised about a couple of feet from the ground, and the figures intended to be worked or embroidered are drawn upon it by designers, who are generally Hindoo painters (nuqash) On woollen cloths the outlines are traced with chalk, and on muslin with pencil, and the body of the design copied from coloured drawings. The embroiderers, seated upon the floor around the frame, ply the needle, which, it may be remarked, they do not draw towards, but, on the contrary, push from them, as is the case with all native sewers in India. In place of scissors they commonly use a piece of glass or Chinaware to cut the threads. The zar-doz, or embroiderers, constitute a distinct society or Mahomedan guild of artisans." * Taylor's " Cotton Manufactures of Dacca," p. 102. HAND-EMBROIDERIES. 115 The examples given in the Books, and grouped in the subjoined Tables 1 and 2, embrace representatives from three of the four principal varieties into which Indian hand embroideries may be divided. 1. HAND EMBROIDERY. COTTON AND SILK. No. of Description. Measurement. Weight of Piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. ozs. s. ,/. Y!I. 252 'Phool Kari/. A striped muslin cm- 13 13 28 141 Gwalior. broidered with sprigs of flowers. VII. 255 Diagonal stripes of flowers in white 10 34 1 Of 400 Dacca. X cotton, with intervening smaller M sprigs. VII. 256 1 Plain muslin embroidered with large 10 35 13^ 3 18 Ditto. I flower sprig. VII. 257 o Vine leaf and grape pattern, with 10 1 1 5 400 Ditto. M intervening double rows of flower H sprigs. VII. 258 Flower sprigs in diagonal order, 10 10 91 3 18 Ditto. I VII. 260 Bootee. Plain muslin with needle- 10 10 13| 1 10 Ditto. |^ worked spots in crimson. VIII. 293 "Embroidered with Moonga silk. Pat- 4 24 1 11 12| Ditto. tern, a check formed by cross lines of small leaf pattern, -i-inch apart and in diagonal order. VIII. 292 Piece of Moonga silk and cotton, in 4 9 331 lOf Ditto. alternate stripes. Cotton stripes embroidered with foliage pattern a in Moonga silk. VIII. 295 \ Cotton and Moonga silk check, em- 4 17 33 0' 13^ ,_,_ Ditto. X broidered with circular and star- J, shaped flowers in Moouga silk. VIII. 296 Cotton and Moonga silk in alternate 4 121 331 11 Ditto. *>" J stripes. The cotton stripes em- 3 broidered with blue, red, and oo yellow flowers. d VI. 234 I .Red twill cotton material, with nar- 1 29 26 1 1 Sylhet. s row black cross stripes : 21-inch p border embroidered with coloured silks. The full piece is cut across at centre and joined at sides to form a dress-skirt. VI. 235 Light blue cotton with cross stripes 1 29 25 1 1 _ Ditto. of dark blue : 2^-in. border, em- broidered with coloured silk and cotton. The full piece is cut across the centre and joined at sides to form a dress-skirt. (3428.) 116 PIECE GOODS. 2. HAND-EMBROIDERY. GOLD, SILVER, TINSEL, "AND BEETLE WINGS. No. of Description. Measurement. Weight of Piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or whence obtained. Vol. Sample, Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. s. d. VII. 274 White muslin, with gold flowers 1 4 1 3 Madras. VII. 276 Red muslin, scroll and foliage pattern, 9 22 1 3 1 111 Madras. worked in flattened gold wire, with flower sprigs in gold and beetle wing. VII. 277 White muslin, tlu'ckly embroidered with 1 29 1 13 12 Madras. gold and tinsel. VII. 278 White muslin, embroidered with gold ;md 2 2 1 8 61 Madras. tinsel. VII. 279 White muslin, embroidered with gold and 3 7 1 12 81 7 10 Madras. tinsel. VII. 280 White muslin, embroidered with gold and 3 3 1 8 o 91 Madras. tinsel. XII. 445 Green silk gauze, embroidered with gold 22 1 7 13 Hyderabad, flowers. An inch wide border of gold Deccan, lace, with figured edges of crimson silk. bought in For choices. Madras. XIV. 552 Silk gauze, crimson weft, blue warp ; 8 1 61 19 Trichinopoly, embroidered with gold flowers. Madras. XIV. 553 Green silk gauze, embroidered with gold 8 34 61 19 Trichinopoly, flowers. Madras. XIV. 554 Crimson silk gauze, embroidered with 8 1 o 51 19 Trichinopoly, gold flowers. Madras. vn. 270 Gold cloth, embroidered with gold thread, 2 22 20 61 Madras. beetle wing, and silver tinsel. In the first part of Table 1 we have specimens of cotton embroidery on muslin, known under the name of Chikan work, termed also Ckikan-Kari or Chiknn dozee. It includes ' a great variety of figured or flowered work on muslin for gowns, scarfs, &c. It also comprises a variety of net-work, which is formed by breaking down the texture of the cloth with the needle, and converting it into open meshes. According to Taylor, Ma- homedan dresses are frequently ornamented in this manner ; and he adds that there are about thirty varieties of this kind of work, of which the Tarter and Sumoonderlah are considered the principal. It is said that the business of Chikan-Kari embroidery affords employment to a considerable number of men and women in the town of Dacca. In the second division of the first table we have a class of embroideries which, although of a comparatively coarse description, occupy a position of some importance, on account of the extent to which they are still exported to Arabia. These consist of fabrics of Moonga silk, or of Moonga silk and cotton, embroidered either with cotton or Moonga silk, but generally the latter. The following is Taylor's description of this class of goods : " Some of these cloths are embroidered in the cotton portion of the warp with the needle, and are then called Kashida. They vary in size from one and a quarter to six yards in length, and from one to one and a quarter yards in breadth. Their price ranges from 2 to 20 rupees (4*. to 40*.) per piece. " Cloth printers (chipigurs) are employed to stamp the figures for embroidering on the khasida cloths. The stamps which they use for this purpose are small blocks of the wood of the khutul tree, having the figures carved in relief. The dye is a red earth, which is brought from Bombay, and is apparently what is called " Indian earth" imported into LACK. 117 that place from the Persian Gulf. It is mixed with gum mucilage when applied to the cloth, and is easily effaced by washing. " This kind of embroidery forms the leisure 'occupation of the majority of the females of poor Mahomedan families in the town. The cloths having the figures stamped upon them are distributed among the embroiderers of this class, and arc worked by them when not engaged in their domestic duties. The merchants who carry on this business employ male and female agents to distribute the cloths and silk and cotton thread among the embroiderers, and through them they make occasional advances of wages to the latter, as the work proceeds. The amount earned by each embroiderer is a small pittance, not exceeding on an average ten or twelve shillings iti the year. These cloths are prepared solely for the markets of Bussora and Jidda, but chiefly for the latter, to which a con- siderable quantity of them is exported annually." In the next, or third division (Table 2) are included the examples in which gold, silver, tinsel, and beetle (Sfernocera orientalis) wings are employed in the decoration of muslin, silk and gold cloth. - Of the beautiful (silk on cloth) embroidery of Sind, and the still better known embroideries in silk and gold on scarfs and shawls of Cashmere cloth, for which Delhi and other places in the north of India are famous, no examples are given in the Books. To form an opinion of the beauty and extent of these the India Museum Collection must be con- sulted.* The following is a statement of the kinds of silk and of gold wire employed in needle embroidery at Dacca. The silk is of two sorts, first common, formerly exported under the name of Dacca silk; and, second, floss silk. Of the gold and silver thread and wire, the varieties are : 1. Gonlabatoon, for embroidering muslins. 2. Goshoo, for embroidering caps. 3. Sulmah, for embroidering caps, slippers, Hookah snakes, &c. 4. Boohin, for the manufacture of gold lace and brocade. LACE. Of the ornamental net-work, wrought of threads of silk, flax, cotton, or of gold or silver interwoven, to which the term lace is usually applied, no examples have been given in the Books. The making of lace of this kind is of only recent introduction, and hitherto has been confined to Nagercoil and a few other places in Southern India. Some of the specimens shown at the Exhibition of 1851 and of 1 862f attracted attention, and the subject is alluded to here chiefly on account of lace being one of the hand-fabrics which India may yet supply to this and other countries. * Some of the shop-windows in London frequently display beautiful examples of the class of articles here alluded to. j Regarding the specimens of lace made under Mrs. Caldwell's directions at the Edaiyangudi Missionary School in Tinnevelly, to which a certificate of Honourable Mention was awarded in 1862, the Jury remarks, "White and black lace from Tinnevelly, showing considerable aptitude for this class of manufacture, and that with perseverance great progress would likely be made." Some good specimens of India-made lace are to be seen in the India Museum Collection. s 2 1 18 PIECE GOODS. WOOL. We have now to place before the reader such information as we possess regarding fabrics made of wool. In treating of these we shall reverse the order hitherto adopted, and speak first of the more elaborate productions of the native loom, particularly of those known as Cashmere shawls, leaving the commoner fabrics for after consideration. CASHMERE SHAWLS. Some of the ways in which the Cashmere shawl is worn by Native gentlemen will be seen in PI. VIII.* opposite the persons of the three first figures being adorned with this costly production. The importance of the Cashmere shawl manufacture as an article of export, will be gathered from the subjoined Table, which shows the value of the Cashmere shawls exported from India to various countries during the past fifteen years. * This Plate, on account of our having after its execution chosen, under the head of Woollen-goods, to deal first with Cashmere Shawls, is made to precede instead of follow PI. VII. COSTXTMIE-ILLXJSTK, V >^s^.V -A 3VCA.LE , &c. CASH MK UK SHAWLS. 119 3 Is o> to ia S o Cl "J- *3 ~ Ct - s R ri S | 8 c" 10 *" ; w o ^itrcflj c: ''to ^* Wrt OO ^ C7T17lif CC '~Z 00 IQ 3 ^"2 *^ ^jiW 90 1 tt E o ^ flO 1 O ^T * ! Quantity. ,s: = ~ n rl "= 8 nil i S i tor i i S i i S 5^1 1 1 1 1 A . Arabian ! .-'- M c*? . " s 2 :- " d IS.* 1 1 - 1 ri * * N ?. s M s s i ri IS g ,| , s g - U) | "> 10 | | I 1 ~- ri ri 1IH0.1XJI i "1 ^S ~ H 1 ^ S ' "2 3S fc ljS,8JgSo WHICH Quantity. i 1 =' N s | * # j 10 | "" ri " ri I-I I *O 1 I I "* I 1 *^ I 1 1 II 1 1 M g H a H i t s O (01, c^n, 1 I Jj S ri 1 1 S H 1 u - 1 ! S 1 " CM- 1". t-T N iN ^ ? K> N 1 1 " to 1 ^ 1 % " S 1 1 * * ' 1 1 ci 1 N N B B 6 4 Quantity. 2 I 2 S S ' H a 1 H S 1 * 1 1 1 1 1 II r ' M INI 1 1 s If 1 ll 1 1 1 s S 1 1 g - 8 g i *. ' 1 * 2 1 " 3 1 1 S 1 1 C -J 1 Quantity. o 1 11 oil, i S ' S 1 1 1 I ! ! II Mil ill! 1 d 1 c^ 1 S * 1 * S g co n "if f-| | l. |lH-| || Quantity. i" i w ri - 1 H II" 1 1 " II s ! !! 5 I lil I I ? " ? s n " ~ w H o JJ to t* Cl J* O C ^ ^ o 01 o Oj^ t>^ P; ~ ri " H V of -*" t^ W cT < t* cf oT ri *2!2"^ 2" -ri "ri N -H 1 Quantity. pj 00 C-I >fl H) OS ON US *V .2_T x - A ~ m * * r- * s-" tx" 1 -. ri g ~ ri S 1 | it I 1 *' Ij 1 1 "" S 1 to" 1 ' " 1 1 -T 1 1 I OS jj CO ^ ^r '^ oft o^ ~ H * H i- l> -^ 4i- O N 1 CM co" ,- 1 o; ri 1 cj i i rf5 W o 01 W - 'j CO *-* i - * * N 1 s - 2 ;-" > 05 2 '^ ? ? 9 CO ^ 10 ri 53 ^i S I I Quantity. S nco -^_ H lol^W WTfO OT H 2 oo o 2 to N = 2 N 22 ||S ij !> H rS 9 5 Of | 1 III III II* ' I S ' m * MI 1 a Parts of rope. 1 l s ll S s i S I i 1 1 1 INI TITIES . o Quantity. | ill 01 ill i 1 m 1 - 1 H 1 1 1 D Q? 2 i i 3 toH *(* oo-*N ooo cjOco tcOTl! ^-'"'S nm M( ** , 5^ K ^ 00 -r " W ** " in H N a * oo o H CM o to oo t* * o w" # S ri See tT p > 'S o IE Quantity. n o ^ e ^ ^ " - 3- S = -21- ri 01 O (M CO 00 (A "^ OT 2- 3 i ;:- i O H Whence Ex- ported. 3 S 3 . ^ooiT 1 ^ ^-.trC* *X ST* ^ ^^tc^* ^3g2 1-1 ^3g^ " ^gj M ^Sj III a "il d gal 3 l"i| d ' ' " 3 __ B ^> ^ j ^-S g j l ^ 1" ^ all | ^ Nj j h CS- 8581 09-6C8I 19-0981 S9-I98 i 89-5981 W ^698^ ' S9-98I ' C\MI.MI:I;I: SHAWLS. 121 It has to be noted that, although the name of ('tix/iHiw attaches to all the shawls of the description under notice, a very considerable proportion of them are now manufactured within our own territory. The following extract from the Report of the Lahore Central Committee for the last International Exhibition (1862) affording, as it does, the latest information on the subject, is here inserted ; and this, although involving some repetition of details, will be followed by an extract from the Report of the Sub-Committee appointed in connexion with the Exhibition of 1851, and also by Moorcroft's still more elaborate, but much less recent, account of the manufacture as practised in Cashmere at the period of his travels through Ladak and Cashmere between the years 1819 and 1825. Referring to shawls, the manufacture of the Punjab, the Lahore Committee (1862) state: " This is now by far the most important manufacture in the Punjaub ; but thirty years ago it was almost entirely confined to Kashmere. At the period alluded to, a terrible famine visited Kashmere ; and, in consequence, numbers of the shawl-weavers emigrated to the Punjaub, and settled in Umritsur, Nurpur, Dinangar, Tilaknath, Jelalpur, and Loodianah, in all of which places the manufacture continues to flourish. The best shawls of Punjaub manufacture are manufactured at Umritsur, which is also an emporium of the shawl trade. But none of the shawls made in the Punjaub can compete with the best shawls made in Kashmere itself; first, because the Punjaub manufacturers are unable to obtain the finest species of wool ; and secondly, by reason of the inferiority of the dyeing, the excellence of which in Kashmere is attributed to some chemical peculiarity in the water there. On receipt of the raw pashutn or shawl wool, the first operation is that of cleaning it; this is done generally by women ; the best kind is cleaned with lime and water, but ordinarily the wool is cleaned by being shaken up with flour. The next operation is that of separating the hair from the pushum ; this is a tedious operation, and the value of the cloth subsequently manufactured varies with the amount of care bestowed upon it. The wool thus cleaned and sorted is spun into thread with the common ' churka ' or native spinning-machine. I This is also an operation requiring great care. White pashumeea thread of the finest quality will sometimes cost as much as 21. 10s. a Ib. f The thread is next dyed, and is then ready for the loom. The shawls are divided into two great classes 1. Woven shawls, called Teliwalah ; 2. Worked shawls. ' Shawls of the former class are woven into separate pieces, which are, when required, sewn together with such precision that the sewing is imperceptible. These are the most highly prized of the two. In worked shawls, the pattern is worked with the needle upon a piece of plain pashumeea or shawl cloth. ' A woven shawl made at Kashmere of the best materials, and weighing 7 Ibs., will cost in Kashmere as much as 300/. ; of this amount the cost of the material, including thread, is 30/., the wages of labour 100/., miscellaneous expenses 50/., duty 701. " Besides shawls, various other articles of dress, such as chogas, or outer robes, ladies' opera-cloaks, smoking-caps, gloves, &c., are made of pashutneea. ' Latterly great complaints have been made by European firms of the adulteration of the texture of Kashmere shawls ; and there is no doubt that such adulteration is practised, especially by mixing up Kirmanee wool with real pashum. In order to provide some guarantee against this, it has been proposed that a guild or company of respectable traders should be formed, who should be empowered to affix on all genuine shawls a trade mark, which should be a guarantee to the public that the material of the shawl is genuine pashum, especially as the Indian Penal Code provides a punishment for those who counterfeit or falsify trade marks, or knowingly sell goods marked with false or counterfeit trade-marks. 122 WOOLLEN GOODS. " At Delhi shawls are made up of pushumeea, worked with silk and embroidered with gold lace. A very delicate shawl is made of the wool of a sheep found in the neighbourhood of Ladak and Kulu ; the best wool is procurable in a village near llampur, on the Sutlej ; hence the fabric is called ' Rampur chudder.' Other woollen manufactures in the Punjaub are Peshawur chogas, made of the wool of the Dumba sheep, and of camel's hair, and chogas made of Patti, or the hair of the Cabul goat." Of the raw woollen substances used in the Punjaub for the manufacture of shawls, and for some of the fabrics which will afterwards be referred to, the Committee give the following description : " 1. Pushum, or shawl wool, properly so called, being a downy substance, found next the skin and below the thick hair of the Thibetan goat. It is of three colours : white, drab, and dark lavender (Tusha). " The best kind is produced in the semi-Chinese Provinces of Turfan Kichar, and exported via Yarkand to Kashmere. All the finest shawls are made of this wool, but as the Maharajah of Kashmere keeps a strict monopoly of the article, the Punjab shawl-weavers cannot procure it, and have to be content with an inferior kind of Pashum produced at Chathan and exported via Leh to Umritsur, Nurpur, Loodianah, Jelapur, and other shawl-weaving towns of the Punjab. The price of white pashum in Kashmere is for uncleaned, 3s. to 4s. per Ib. ; ditto, cleaned, 6s. to 7s. per Ib. Of Tusha ditto, uncleaned, 2s. to 3s. per Ib. ; cleaned, from 5s. to 7*. " 2. The fleece of the Dumba sheep of Cabul and Peshawur. This is sometimes called Kaltuli Pashum. It is used in the manufacture of the finer sorts of chogas, an outer robe or cloak with sleeves, worn by Affghans and other Mfihomedans of the Western frontier. " 3. Wahab Shahi, or Kirmani Wool.- The wool of a sheep found in Kirman, a tract of country in tl)e south of Persia, by the Persian Gulf. It is used for the manufacture of a spurious kind of shawl-cloth, and for adulterating the texture of Kashmere shawls. " 4. The hair of a goal common in Kabul and Peshawur, called Pat, from which a texture called Patlu is made. " 5. The woolly hair of the camel. From this a coarser kind of choga is made. " 6. The wool of the country sheep of the Plains. Regarding the production of wool in the Himalayan or Sub-Himalayan portion of the Punjab, the last year's Revenue Report states that ' there can be no doubt that the valleys of the Sutlej, Ravee, Chandrabaga (or Chenab), Namisukh, and other tributaries of the Indus, supply grazing grounds not to be surpassed in richness and suitableness in any part of the world. The population inhabiting them are chiefly pastoral ; but owing to sloth and ignorance, the wool they produce is but small in quantity, full of dirt and ill-cared for in every way.' The government of the Punjab have made efforts to improve the breed by the importation of Merino rams, but hitherto v.'ith little success. However, a truss of Merino wool produced at Huzara, a hill district to the north-west of the Punjab, and sent to England in I860, was there valued at Is. 6d. per Ib." The following is an extract from the Report on Cashmere shawls by the Committee for the Exhibition of 1861, to which reference has already been made.* * Extracted from the Official Illustrated Catalogue of the Exhibition of 1851. Members of the Committee, Dr. II. Falconer, Joseph Agaberg, and Jorykissen Moakerjee. C \silMERE SHAWLS. 123 " The principal articles of pushmina, or shawl-wool, manufacture may be classiiicd under the following heads : I. DOSHALLA, or long shawls, 3i by H guz. II. KUSSABA, or square shawls, U or '2.', guz. square. III. JAMKWARS, or striped shawl pieces, 15^ by l.\ guz. IV. ULWAN, or plain white shawl cloth. V. Miscellaneous, such as carpets, canopies, saddle-cloths, and various articles of dress, stockings, gloves, turbans, &c. I. DoSHALLAS, Or LoNG SHAWLS. " Doshallfis, or long shawls, invariably manufactured and sold in pairs, are the most esteemed production of the looms of Cashmere. They vary greatly according to the richness of the patterns, all of which are distinctly named, and according to the colours of which the dyers profess to make upwards of fifty tints,) but the Sub-Committee will confine themselves to the leading colours, viz., black, white, crimsons, purple, blue, green, and yellow. " Of the finest doxhal/nx, the principal varieties in pattern depend upon the amount of decoration of mitton, or centre piece, the pulla, or border pieces, being always richly flowered. The following are the leading kinds : 1. Khale mitton, or plain field shawls ; 2. Poor mitton, or full flowered field ; 3. Chand-dar, chantahi-dar, alifda fcoonj boothadar ; according to ornament, being a moon or circle in the centre, four half-moons, green sprigs on a plain ground, a group of flowers at the corners, or any combination of these. " The Sub-Committee would restrict their consideration of the colours to eight kinds, viz., 1. White, sada or sqfaed. 2. Black, mooshkee. 3. Crimson, goolanar. 4. Scarlet, kermisi. 5. Purple, ooda. 6. Blue, ferozee. 7- Green, zingare. 3. Yellow, zurd. " Fine long shawls with plain fields of handsome patterns (khalli mitton) are procurable at about 1,200 rupees per pair, and full flowered (poor mitton) at about 1,500 rupees. Taking the average of these 1,350 rupees, as representing the price of the third class, including chand-dar, chantahi-dar, &c., and as the average price of the whole ; and supposing a pair of each of the above eight colours were ordered of the three several classes of pattern we should have twenty -four pairs of shawls, at 1,350 rupees, making 32,400 rupees in all. II. KUSSABAS, OR SQUARE SHAWLS. " Knssabas, or square shawls, called also Roomals, are of two classes, viz., Kanee Roomal, or loom-manufactured, and Umlee Roomal, or needle-embroidered shawls. In form they are more suited to the taste of the Europeans than the long shawls, and are made and sold singly. They run through the same range of colour and pattern as the long shawls. The needle-worked kinds are much cheaper than the loom-manufactured, and the embroidery is far superior in pattern and execution to the scarfs and shawls embroidered at Delhi. ^ Assuming eight colours and three patterns of each of the Kanee Roomal, at an average of 400, 300, and 500 rupees each, twenty-four square shawls would cost 9,600 rupees, and the same number of needle- worked of Umlee Roomals, at an average of 225, 150, to 300 rupees, would cost 5,400 rupees. (3428.) T 124 WOOLLEN GOODS. III. JAMEWARS. " Jamewars form the third great class : they are handsome striped loom-wrought fabrics of rich patterns, of which the French striped coloured muslins are printed imitations. They are manufactured of an infinity of patterns, but the principal kinds are the Rega-lootha, or small flowered ; the Kirkha-bootha, or large flowered ; and the Jhaldar, or netted patterns. \ The most elaborately worked cost as much as 2,000 rupees each. IV. ULWAN. " Ulwan, or plain shawl wool-cloth, is woven like plain muslin, without flower or ornament, and is made in pieces of various lengths. It forms the centre portion or mitton of shawls, and is used for turbans and cummurbunds. | It is well adapted for ladies' dresses. Eight pieces of twenty yards each of the different colours above-named, at six rupees per yard, would cost 960 rupees. Another fabric is made which may be included under the same head as Ulwan, called Muleedah-pushmina, being intended to imitate European broad-cloths. It is formed of Ulwan manipulated in a peculiar manner in water, so as by rubbing to teaze out the wool of the thread and raise it into a nap. A piece of twenty yards, at six rupees, would cost 120 rupees. " A coarser fabric of the same class is manufactured in the Hill State, to the north-west of Simla, called Putfoo-peshmina, which possesses great softness and warmth in many respects rivalling fine broadcloth." The following is Moorcroft's * account of the shawl manufacture in Kashmir : " The first task of the spinner is to separate the different materials of which the fleece consists, usually in about the following proportions : Coarse hair - - 1| seersf Seconds or Phiri - - f ,, Dust and foreign substances 2 Fine wool - - - 2 6 or 1 tarak. " Much attention is requisite to free the wool from the hair, and the process is a tedious one. " The next step is cleaning and separating the wool. A quantity of husked rice is steeped in clean cold water, for a day and a night, or longer, until it becomes soft, when it is ground, or bruised upon a stone slab, to fine flour. Thin layers of this and of the picked wool are laid alternately, and squeezed with the hand until they are completely inter- mixed. A little water may occasionally be sprinkled over the heap, if the weather is hot and dry, else it is not necessary. Soap is never used, as it makes the wool harsh ; and its employment in Hindustan being communicated to the Kashmirians, induced them to boast that in this matter, at least, they were more knowing than the Europeans. After being thus treated for about an hour, the flour is shaken out, the wool opened and torn to pieces, chiefly by the nails, and made into somewhat square, thin, elastic pads called Tumbu. In this process the Phiri, or seconds wool, is extricated. Though too coarse * Moorcroft's Travels in Kashmir, &c., pp. 168 to 194. Vol. II. Murray : London, 1841. j- The ordinary Indian seer is a little over 2 Ibs., and may be that to which Moorcroft here alludes. CASHMERE SHAWl.s. 125 for fine shawls it is used in the manufacture of those of inferior quality, and of a strong shawl cloth called " Pat//.'' The tumbu is then worked out into a thin, flat roving, about half a yard long, which is called a Mala. The mala is folded up to the size of the tumbu, and deposited in a deep pot of red earthenware, called a Tuskas, to be out of the way of dust or accident, till required for the spinning wheel. " The wheel is constructed on the same principle as that used in Hindustan, but varying in neatness of form and finish, according to its price ; the rudest, the Tafchf'u/m; or Paclibmlar, costs a half rupee; the Katzker, which is the most serviceable, three or four rupees ; and Pakhchedar, which is used by those who spin for amusement only, costs from six to 16 rupees. The iron spindle is enclosed in a cylindrical tube of straw or reed grass, and runs through two elastic twists of grass ; and instead of one line of radii, or spokes, supporting a continued circular wooden rim, there are two circular parallel walls of flat spokes in contact at their edges, leaving between them, at their outer circum- ference, an empty space. A hair cord, fastened to the loose end of one of the spokes, is carried across the space or trough to the end of the next spoke but one on the oppo- site side, and having been passed round, it returns to a spoke on the side from which it began. By a continuation of this process a rim is formed of a surface of hair cord, over which runs a small band that is said to be seldom cut by the friction to which it is exposed. The principle kept in view by this arrangement of spindle and rim, is to pro- duce a continuance of soft elastic movements without jerk or stiffness, to prevent the yarn breaking on the occurrence of any slight interruption in drawing it out. ' Women begin to work at daybreak, continue with little interruption the whole day, if not taken off by other domestic affairs ; and extend their labour until very late in the night, spinning by moonlight, when available, and when they cannot afford to purchase 011 for a lamp. The fine wool is commonly spun into about 700 gaz,* each gaz consist- ing of 16 girahs, about equal to nails. This yarn is doubled and formed into twist, which is cut into 200 lengths, each length of 3| gaz, this measure being . suited to the length of the warp for a shawl. From the phiri, or seconds wool, about 100 gaz of yarn are also produced. " The yarn of the fine wool is sold sometimes by measure and sometimes by weight. A hundred lengths of yarn of fine wool doubled, and each 3 gaz, bring ordinarily seven tangas, or about seven pence. But if the same kind of yarn be sold without being doubled or twisted, the price is regulated by weight a pal bringing from 12 annas to one rupee four annas, according to the demands of the market. The yarn from phiri, or seconds wool, is sold only by measure, but the gaz employed consists of no more than 12 girahs, or nails, that is, of four girah less than the gaz in ordinary use. 100 yards of phiri twist, and each of two short gaz, or of 24 girah, sell for one and a half tangaf, three pice, or about three half-pence. Although calculations upon this matter can be little more than approximations, yet 3d. or 3\d. per day, or from 3 rupees to 3 rupees 8 annas, or from 6s. to 7. a month, may be taken as the general earnings of an industrious and expert spinner in Kashmir : out of which, however, must be subtracted the price of the wool, leaving only 1 rupee 8 annas (or about 3s.) for her labour. " If shawl wool be furnished to a spinner to clean and to spin, 8 annas are paid for spinning one pal, or 3 rupees weight of yarn of the requisite quality for shawls. Sheep's wool, * The Gaz or Guz is about 1 yard. The Girah is given as 2 inches. t Thirty-two tangas or annas equal two rupees. T 2 126 WOOLLEN GOODS. spun by contract, is paid for by the pao, or ^ seer, at the rate of from 2 tangas, or 4 pice, to 12 annas per pao, according to the fineness of the yarn; and the spinning of this quantity into yarn suited for shawls will occupy a woman for eight days. There are several varieties of thread, distinguished by different degrees of fineness. From one pal of clean, fine, shawl wool a spinner will draw from 100 to 1,000 threads of 3.V gaz each. There is not such a difference between the price of coarse and of fine yarn as might be expected, owing to the greater expenditure on the former of a material that is dear, and on the latter, of labour that is cheap. Shawl wool is sometimes spun by men with a loose spindle like that used in Ladakh. These men are called Trakhans, and the yarn thus spun is the finest ; but very little of it is now made. Girls begin to spin at the age of 10, and 100,000 females are employed in this occupation in Kashmir. About one- tenth of this number are supposed to spin for the purpose of obtaining shawls for themselves, or for other members of their families, and nine-tenths to earn a livelihood. " The Puimangu keeps a shop for the purchase of yarn, but also sends people to collect it from the houses of the spinners, who give notice of their approach by ringing a bell. The yarn is sold to the weavers at a profit of from one pice to a tanga in the rupee. As a large stamp duty is levied on shawl goods when finished, the exportation of the yarn is forbidden, and the prohibition is enforced by heavy fines and imprisonment. Much of it is, nevertheless, exported to those places in the Punjab where the expatriated weavers have settled. " Having ascertained the kind of pattern most likely to suit the market, the weaver applies to persons whose business it is to apportion the yarn according to the colours required ; and when this is settled, he takes it to another, whose function it is to divide the yarn into skeins accordingly, and each skein is delivered to the Rangrez, or dyer. When the body of the cloth is to be left plain, the phiri, or seconds yarn, is alone given to be dyed. This is generally about the thickness of common cotton sewing thread, is loosely twisted, of a coarser quality than the yarn used for the cloth, and is prepared for employment in flowers, or other ornaments, from its standing higher, and being, as it were, embossed upon the ground. " The dyer prepares the yarn by steeping in cold water. He professes to be able to give it 64 tints, most of which are permanent. Each has a separate denomination ; as for instance, the crimson is termed Gulanar (pomegranate flower) ; the best kind is derived from cochineal imported from Hindustan ; inferior tints are from Lac and Kirmis (Chermes}, distinguished as Kirmisi, Kirmdana, and Kirmisi lac, or cochineal, and lac chermes ; logwood is used for other red dyes ; blues and greens are dyed with indigo, or colouring matter extracted by boiling from European broad cloth. Logwood is imported from Mooltan, and indigo from India. Carthamus and saffron, growing in the province, furnish means of various tints of orange, yellow, &c. The occupation of a dyer is invariably hereditary. The whiter and finer the fibre of the wool, and the finer the yarn into which it is made, the more capable it is said to be of receiving a brilliant dye ; and this is one reason why the fine white wool of the goat is preferred to that of sheep. " The Nakatu adjusts the yarn for the warp and for the weft. That intended for the former is double, and is cut into lengths of 3^ gaz, anything short of that measure being considered fraudulent. The number of these lengths varies from 2,000 to 3,000, accord- ing to the closeness, or openness of texture proposed, and the fineness or coarseness of the yarn. (As I LMERE SKAAVLS. 127 " The weft is made of yarn which is single, but a little thicker than the double yarn or twist of the w;irp. The weight of the weft is estimated at half more than that of the \varp. The Xnkntu receives the yarn in hanks, but returns it in balls : he can prepare in one day the warp and weft for two shawls. "The Pennakamguru, or warp dresser, takes from the weaver the yarn \vhich has been cut and reeled and stretching the lengths by means of sticks into a band, of which the threads are slightly separate, dresses the whole by dipping it into thick boiled rice water. After this the skein is slightly squeezed, and again stretched into a band, which is brushed and suffered to dry ; by this process each length becomes stiffened and set apart from the rest. " Silk is generally used for the warp on the border of the shawl, and has the advantage of showing the darker colours of the dyed wool more prominently than a warp of yarn as well as hardening and strengthening, and giving more body to the edge of the cloth. When the border is very narrow it is woven with the body of the shawl ; but when broader, it is worked on a different loom, and afterwards sewn on the edge of the Shawl by the Rufiignr, or fine drawer, with such nicety, that the union can scarcely be detected. The silk is twisted for the border warp by the Tabgar. The warp differs in breadth, the narrowest consisting of 20, and the broadest of 100 threads. From the Tabgar the silk is handed to the Alakaband, who reels it and cuts it into the proper lengths. The operation of drawing, or of passing the yarns of the warp through the heddles, is performed precisely in the same -way as in Europe, and the warp is then taken by the Shctl-baf, or weaver, to the loom. The weavers are all males, commencing to learn the art at the age of 10 years. In all transactions there are two parties, the master, or Ustdd, and the scholar, or Shahgird, the former being the capitalist, the latter the mechanic. Work is executed under four different conditions : first, for wages, when it almost always happens that a system of advances has occurred, by which the workman is so deeply indebted to his employer that he may, in some sort, be considered as his bondslave. Secondly, upon contract, of which the common term is, that one pice is paid for every hundred needles carrying coloured yarn that shall have been each once passed round as many yarns of the warp. Third, a sort of partnership, in which the Ustdd finds all the materials, and the workmen give their labour. When a shawl is sold, the outlay of the Ustdd is deducted from the price, and the remainder is divided into five shares, of which one goes to the master, and the other four to the workmen. The fourth mode is an equal division of the proceeds ; in which case the master not only finds the materials, but feeds the workmen. Three men are employed upon an embroidered shawl of an ordinary pattern for three months, but a very rich pair will occupy a shop for 18 months. " The loom differs not in principle from that of Europe, but is of inferior workmanship. An Ustdd has from three to 300 in his establishment, and they are generally crowded together in long, low apartments. When the warp is fixed in the loom, the Nakash, or pattern drawer, and the Tarah-guru and Talim-guru, or persons who determine the propor- tion of yarn of different colours to be employed, are again consulted. The first brings the drawing of the pattern in black and white. The Tarah-guru, having well considered it, points out the disposition of the colours, beginning at the foot of the pattern, and calling out the colour, the number of threads to which it is to extend, that by which it is to be followed, and so on in succession, until the whole pattern has been described. From his dictation the Talim-guru writes down the particulars in a kind of character or shorthand, and delivers a copy of the document to the weavers. 1 28 WOOLLEN GOODS " The workmen prepare the tujis, or needles, by arming each with coloured yarn of about four grains weight. These needles, without eyes, are made of light smooth wood and have both their sharp ends slightly charred, to prevent their becoming rough or jagged through working. Under the superintendence of the Tarah-guru, the weavers knot the yarn of the tuji to the warp. The face, or right side of the cloth, is placed next to the ground, the work being carried on at the back or reverse, on which hang the needles in a row, and differing in number from 400 to 1,500, according to the lightness or heaviness of the embroidery. As soon as the Ustud is satisfied that the work of one line or woof is completed, the comb is brought down upon it with a vigour and repetition, apparently very disproportionate to the delicacy of the materials. " The cloth of shawls is generally of two kinds, one plain, or of two threads, one twilled, or of four threads. The former was, in past times, wrought to a great degree of fineness, but it has been, of late, less in demand. The various twilled cloths are usually from five to 12 girahs, or nails, wide. Shawls are twilled, and are commonly about 24 nails broad, and differ in their extent of field. Two persons are employed in weaving a cloth of this breadth. One throws the shuttle from the edge as far as he can across the warp, which is usually about half way. It is there seized by the second weaver, who throws it onwards to the opposite edge, and then returns it to his companion, who, in his turn, introducing his fingers into the warp, forwards the shuttle to the edge whence it started, and then recommences the operation. The cloth thus made is frequently irregular, the threads of some parts of the woof being driven up tightly, and in others left open, from which results a succession of bands, sufficiently distinguishable whilst without colour, but still more obvious when dyed. The open texture is, in a degree, remediable by the introduction of fresh threads; but there is no sufficient cure for that which has been much compacted. One might be led to suspect that there existed some radical defective- ness in the principle of this mode of weaving not readily mastered, were not pieces of cloth found occasionally of an almost perfect regularity of texture. But the greatest irregularity is discoverable in those shawls which have the deepest and heaviest borders, and a further examination compels me to retract an observation somewhere made of the artist being so much engrossed by attention to the work of the pattern as to neglect the structure of the field. The edge of the warp in the loom is filled with the heavy thread of the phiri, or seconds yarn, charged also with colour, so that in a few lines the front of the worked part advances beyond that of the plain part or field, and an endeavour to equalize this betrays the weaver into a work which proves fruitless ; and, in general, the heavier the embroidery on the border, and, of course, the higher the price of the shawl, the less regular is the structure of the cloth. Such indeed, in some instances, is the degradation of the cloth in the field, as to induce some foreign merchants to cause it to be removed, and another piece to be engrafted within the edge of the border. But in this case there is no other remedy than in a judicious selection of a sheet of the same breadth and fineness; for, although two breadths of the narrow cloth might fit the vacant space, yet these must be joined by the rafugar in the middle; and, although this can be so done that the band differs not in thickness from the rest of the cloth, yet the joint is discernible when held between the eye and the light, from the threads in the joined breadth not being continuous in the same line; whereas any irregularity of this nature is drowned in the edge of the border. The best practice to ensure a good field seems to consist in weaving the border, in every case, separately, and inserting the field by the Rafugar. 129 " When finished, the shawls are submitted to the Purusgar, or cleaner, whose business it is to free the shawl from discoloured hairs or yarn and from ends or knots : he either pulls them out severally with a pair of tweezers, or shaves the reverse face of the cloth with a sharp knife ; any defects arising- from cither operation are immediately repaired by the rafuffdi: At this stage of the manufacture the shawls are sent to the Collector of the Stamp Duties, by whom an ail i-nlwm duty of 26 per cent, is levied, and each piece is then stamped and registered. The goods are now handed over to the Wafurosh, or person who has advanced money on them to the manufacturer, and to the Mohk'un, or broker, and these two settle the price and effect the sale to the merchant; the former charges interest on his advances, the latter a commission, varying from 2 to 5 per cent. The purchaser takes the goods unwashed, and often in pieces, and the fine-drawer and washerman have still to do their part. " When partly washed, the Dholi or washerman brings the shawls to the merchant, that they may be examined for any holes or imperfections ; should such occur, they are remedied at the expense of the seller; if there are none, the washing is completed. This is done with clear cold w:itcr, using soap very cautiously to white parts alone, and never to embroidery. Coloured shawls are dried in the shade ; white ones are bleached in the open air, and their colour is improved by exposure to fumes of sulphur. After being washed, the shawls are stretched in a manner which answers, in some degree, to calendering. A wooden cylinder in two parts is employed for this purpose, round which the shawl, folded so as not to be quite so broad as the cylinder is long, is carefully wrapped, being occasion- ally damped to make it fold tighter; the end is sewn down, two wedges are then gradually driven between the two parts of the cylinder at the open extremities, so as to force them asunder, and the surrounding folds of the shawl are thus stretched to as great an extent as is consistent with its texture. The piece remains in this state for two days, when it is removed to be packed. The packages are of various dimensions, but they are formed on one principle : the shawls are separated by sheets of smooth, glazed, and coloured paper, and they are placed between two smooth planks of wood, with exterior transverse bars, which, projecting beyond the planks, offer a purchase for cords to tie them together : the whole is then placed in a press, or under heavy weights, for some days, when the planks are withdrawn, and the bale is sewed up in strong cloth : over this a cover of tus, or of birch bark, is laid, and an envelope of wax cloth is added, and the whole is sewed up as smoothly and lightly as possible in a raw hide, which, con- tracting in drying, gives to the contents of the package a remarkable degree of compact- ness and protection. " An immense variety of articles of shawl stuff are manufactured in Kashmir, besides the shawls themselves. Of them, also, there are two chief varieties, those made in the manner described, and the worked shawl (doshali amli), in which the whole of the embroidery is worked on the cloth, with needles having eyes, and with a particular kind of woollen thread, instead of the silk employed in the usual embroidered work. In the amli shawl, the pattern which is in every case delineated, but which at the loom is read off in certain technical terms from a book, is covered with transparent paper, upon which the outlines of the composition are slightly traced with a charcoal twig, and the traced lines are permanently defined by being pricked through with a small needle. The cloth intended to receive the pattern is rubbed strongly upon a smooth plank, with a piece of highly polished agate or cornelian, until it is perfectly even and regular. The pricked pattern is then stretched upon the cloth, and some fine coloured powder, 130 WOOLLEN GOODS. charcoal or chalk, is passed slightly over the paper, which, penetrating through the holes, transfers the outline to the cloth underneath. This is next more accurately delineated with some coloured powder, rendered tenacious by mucilage of gum arabic, which, when the work is completed, is readily detached in dust by the hand. " The use of patterns by the chain stitch embroiderer, and the carpet weaver of Kashmir, is more restricted to a confined number of forms, by being transferred from a wooden block to the cloth, in regard to the former, and to paper in respect to the latter. " The following are the chief articles of this manufacture, with their usual prices. " Shawls in pairs form the principal article of this manufacture, and have different names, according to their nature and quality, as plain white, coloured, embroidered in the loom, or by the hand with the needle, viz. : Patu Pashmini, sometimes made of Aaal-tus, but more frequently of the coarse kinds of shawl wool, is in length 4 gaz and in breadth l gaz. This is thick, and used as a blanket or for outer clothing. Price from five to six rupees per gaz. Shala Phiri, as its name denotes, is made of phiri, or seconds wool. Its length is from 3 to 4 gaz; breadth, H gaz. Price from 20 to 30 rupees per piece. Ilahcan, or plain white cloth, of fine shawl wool, without flower, border, or other ornament, differs in length, but is 12 girahs in breadth, and is used for turbans and for dyeing. Price from 3 to 6 rupees per gaz. Jowhar Shala Sadu, or shawl with a narrow edging of coloured yarn, is from 3^ to 3| gaz in length and H in breadth. Price from SO to 60 rupees per piece. " As all the following shawls are of the same dimensions, viz., 3^ gaz in length, and 1^ gaz in breadth, it is unnecessary to affix the measures to their several names. Shala Hashiadar, edged by a single border. Price from 60 to 70 rupees. Shala Dohashiadar, has a double border. Price from 40 to 70 rupees. Shala Chahar Hashiadar has four borders. Price from 60 to 70 rupees. Hashiadar Khosar, or Khalil Khani, has two borders and two tanga, sometimes with, at others without a flower in the corners. 40 to 50 rupees. Hashiadar Kiungridar. This has a border of the usual form with another within side, or nearer to the middle, resembling the crest of the wall of Asiatic forts, furnished with narrow niches or embrasures for wall pieces, or matchlocks, whence its name. 100 to 150 rupees. Dhourdar has an ornament running all round the shawl, between the border and the field. 200 to 2,200 rupees per pair. Mathandar, has flowers or decorations in the middle of the field. 300 to 1,800 rupees per pair. Chand'dar has a circular ornament or moon in the centre of the field. 500 to 1,500 rupees per pair. Choutahidar has four half-moons. 300 to 1,500 rupees per pair. Kunjbuthadar has a group of flowers at each corner. 200 to 900 rupees per pair. Alifdar has green sprigs, without any other colour, on a white ground or field. 120 to 1,150 rupees per pair. Kaddar has large groups of flowers, somewhat in the form of the cone of a pine, with the ends or points straight, or curved downwards. Dohaddar has two heights of such groups, and Sekaddar has three rows, and so on to five and upwards ; in the latter case, however, the cones are somewhat small. 100 to 800 rupees per pair. " The ornaments of shawls are distinguished by different names, as Pala, Hashia, Zanjir, Dhour, &c., and these are divided into different parts. By the term Pala, is meant the whole of the embroidery at the two ends, or, as they are technically called, the heads of the shawl. The Hashia, or border, is disposed commonly one at each side in the whole length, and if double or triple, gives particular denomination to the shawl. The Zanjir, or chain, runs above and also below the principal mass of the Pala, and, as it were, confines it. CASHMERE SHAWLS. 131 Tin- Dlnmr, or running ornament, i- situated to the inside in regard to the //n.i/iin and I lie Znnjir, loping iinniediately the whole of the field. The Kinijli/il/in is a corner ornament, or clustering of flowers. The Mniiiin is the decorated part of the field or ground. liutha is the generic term for flowers, but is specifically applied when used alone t:> the large coue-like ornament which forms the innsl prominent feature of the Pala. Sometimes there is only tine line of tin -c ornaments, extending from the lowest Zniijir to the upper one. When there is a double row, one above the other, the liiitJin is called Dokad, Schkad, up to five, after which it takes the name of Tuliitddnr. Kadi liiitlui consists of three parts ; vi/., the Pat or foot or pediment of leaves generally ; the Slii/unn, or belly, and the Sir, or head. The head is either erect, straight, curved, or inclined. If the Dutlia slope uerally it is named Butha-kaj. The That, or net, is the work which separates the different But tins, but sometimes the interstice is without ornament. Jamaicar signifies, literally, a gown piece. The length of this cloth is 3| gaz, and the breadth ! gaz. This article branches into many varieties, as Khirkhabutha, large compound flowers, consisting of groups of smaller ones. This is used by the Persians and Afghans. Kupees per piece. RezabuAa (small flowers thickly set) 200 to 700 Thulditr (network) - 500 to 1,700 I si i mi 250 to 400 Mehramat 150 to 300 Khatherast 150 to 750 Murpech 200 to 350 Kalmkar 300 to 1,000 Zakhe Augur . 300 to 500 Chaporast 300 to 7,000 Dogul, Seh-fful, Chahar-gul, 8/c. 500 to 1,000 Barghe Bed 250 to 400 Gulisant 200 to 900 Duazdeh Khat - 700 to 1,500 Duazdch rang - 800 to 1,400 Gule parwanc - . 300 to 450 Kaddhar 300 to 2,000 Kayhamu, Sabzkar, Sajed 120 to 130 ' These are made by the shawl weaver alone, and go largely into Hindustan, where they are dyed, the small green flowers being previously tied up in hard small knots, so as to be protected from the action of the dye, and are, of course, when untied, each surrounded by a small white field. Small eyes of spots of yellow, red, and of other colours, are sup- posed to harmonize with the green flowers and the new ground, and these are added by embroiderers of Chikkandoz. Kasabeh or Rumal, women's veils, square shawls. These are from one-and-a-half to two-and-a-half gaz square, and are called Khathdnr 300 to 500 rupees. Mehramat 150 to 300 Islimi, with the 13 other patterns of the Jama wars ; and in addition there are Chaharbagh - 300 to 350 rupees. Hashia 100 to 175 Chand . 50 to 200 Shash Manta/ii 250 to 200 Feringi, exported chiefly to Russia - - - 100 to 500 Chantahi - 150 to 400 Tara Armeni, exported chiefly to Armenia and Persia - 100 to 250 Tara Rumi, exported chiefly to Turkey - 120 to 300 Sada for domestic use - 12 to 15 (3428.) 132 WOOLLEN GOODS. Sliamlrts, or girdles for the waist, worn by the Asiatics, are 8 gaz in length, and 1^ gaz broad, of various colors and patterns, and vary from 50 to 2,000 rupees a piece, according to the richness of the work. Dosliala or shawls, which contain three palas instead of two, go only to Thibet, and sell for 100 to 150 rupees. Goshpcch or Patha, or turbans, are in length from 8 to 10 gaz, breadth 1 gaz, and of all colours. One variety has two palas, two zanjirs, and two hashias. 150 to 800 rupees. Mandila, another variety, sometimes has a zanjir, and sometimes is without this ornament. This latter is from 8 to 10 gaz in length, and about 12 giras broad. 45 to 70 rupees. Khalln Paskmiita, shawl carpets. This is sold at 20 to 40 rupees the square gaz of only three-quarters, and is made of any size in a single piece. Nakash. Trousers. Some are with, others without, seams. The former are made of two pieces, which are sewn together by the rafugar, the latter by the jarab saz, or stocking maker. 200 to 500 rupees per pair. Chaharkhana, netted cloth. Length indefinite ; breadth, 1^ gaz; used by women. 5 to 10 rupees per gaz. Gulbadan. Length indefinite, breadth from 14 girahs to one gaz. 5 to 6 rupees per gaz. Lungi, girdles. Length 3-^ gaz ; breadth, 1^ gaz. These differ from Shamlas by being in narrow check, and bordered by lines of different colours. 50 to 70 rupees. Takhin, caps, 8 annas to 4 rupees. Jarab, short stockings. Guldar and Mehramat, flowered and striped. 1 to 5 rupees. Maze Pashmina, long stockings. 5 to 25 rupees. Sakkab Posh, canopies. 300 to 1,500 rupees. Darparda, curtains for doors and windows. Same price as Jamawar, by measure. Kajjari Asp, saddle cloths, by measure. Kajjari Fil, elephant's housing, by measure. Balaposh or P along Posh, quilt or coverlet. 300 to 1,000 rupees. Galaband, cravat. 12 to 300 rupees. Pistanband, neckerchief. 5 to 15 rupees. Langota, waist-belts. 15 to 30 rupees. Postin, cloths left long in the nap to line pelisses. 500 to 1,000 rupees. Paipech, leggings. Length, 2 gaz ; breadth, 1 gira, of all colors. From 2 to 10, rupees. Yezar, or Izarband, waist-strings. 1 to 15 rupees. Takkia, pillow bier. Same price as Jamawar. Khalita, bags or purses. 8 annas to 2 rupees. Kubbur Posh, shrouds or covers for tombstones. Same price as Jamawar. Takposh, covers or hangings in front of recesses or cupboards ; and Khwanposh, dish covers or napkins, of various qualities and patterns. From 30 to 500 rupees a piece." The following remarks on the shawl-wool of the domestic goat of Ladakh, and on that of the wool of the Wild Goat, including a notice of the manner in which the shawl- wool is picked from the fleece are also from Moorcroft : " One of the most important articles of the trade of Ladakh is shawl-wool, of which it forms in some degree the source, but in a still greater the entrepot between the countries whence the wool is chiefly supplied, Rodokh and Chan-than, and that in which it is consumed, Kashmir. The wool is that of a domestic goat, and consists of the under fleece or that next the skin beneath the outer coat of hair ; the breed is the same in Ladakh as in Lassa, Great Tibet and Chinese Turkistan, but the wool is not so fine as in the breeds of the districts on its eastern and northern frontier. The fleece is cut once a year, and the wool, coarsely picked either in the place from whence it comes or at Le, is sold by the importer to the merchants at that city, by whom it is sent on to Kashmir. The Raja and Khalun deal extensively in this trade, but it is also shared by merchants both from Kashmir and Turan. About 800 loads are annually exported to s ii UVIMVOOL. i:j;j Kashmir, to which country, by ancient custom and engagements, the export is exclusively confined, and all attempts to convey it to other countries are punished by confiscation. In like manner it is considered in Rodokh and Chan-than as illegal to allow a trade in shawl- wool except through Ladakh, and in the latter country considerable impediments arc opposed to the traffic in wool from Yarkand, although it is of superior quality and cheapness. The hair of the goat after it is separated from the wool is made into ropes, blankets, and bags for home use, and as wrappers for bales of merchandise. " Besides the fleece of the domesticated goat, that of the wild goat, under ,the deno- mination of Asnl! Tux, is exported in smaller quantities to Kashmir. It is of a light brown colour and exceeding fineness, and is worked into shawls, a kind of soft cloth called Tusi, and linings for shawl-wool stockings ; very few shawls, however, are made from this materal. " In general the pickers of shawl-wool are paid by the hair, but in this case the hair is considered unfit for making into ropes, &c. Shawls made of this material would be much softer, lighter, and warmer than those of ordinary fabric. When, without being picked, the Asali Tus is worked into Tusi it forms a warm, soft cloth of a drab or gray colour which is much worn in the hills. This article must be always high priced from the difficulty of procuring the animal that produces it, the wild goat rarely venturing within gun-shot during the day, and being obtained only by snares at night, when they come down from the mountains to browse in the valleys."* ' On my way to Digar I had an opportunity of witnessing the manner in which the shawl wool was extracted from the fleece. After the hair of the goat had been cut short with a knife in the direction of its growth, or from the head towards the tail, a sort of comb was passed in the reversed direction, and brought away the finer wool almost unmixed with the coarse hair. The comb consisted of seven pegs of willow tied side by side and secured by cross bars ; the pegs were cut away at the points to the thickness of quills and were made slightly to diverge from each other. The operation was roughly performed, and brought away scales of the cuticle along with the wool. The wool, however, was at this season easily detached, for it is a curious provision of nature that with the setting in of warmer weather the delicate woolly clothing nearest the skin of the mountain animals being no longer needed, becomes loosened in its attachment, and is removed, if not by man, by the animals themselves. I noticed the yaks at the end of April very busy rubbing themselves with their horns and bringing off the finer hairs in considerable quantities. In sheep and dogs the wool rose to the end of the hair, and either fell off or was got rid of by the animals rolling on the ground or rubbing themselves against trees, &c., and I was told that the wild goats and sheep relieve themselves in the same manner of a vesture indispensable to their comfort in winter, but unnecessary and inconvenient in the heat of summer."t * Moorcroft's "Travels in Kashmir," &c., vol. L, p. 346. f Op. cit., vol. I., p. 410. U 2 134 WOOLLEN GOODS. CASHMERE CLOTH AND WOOL FOR SHAWLS, &c. In the following Table are inserted the particulars regarding the specimens of Cashmere cloths and of the portions of the Shawls which are shown in the books. No. of Description. Measurement. Weight of Piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. x. d. XVIII. 667 ["Bright crimson, fine quality - 7 1 10 2 4 300 Loodiana,Punjab. XVIII. 668 Black, first quality. Chiefly used for 4 10 19 12 Cashmere. Chogas. xvin. 669 White, fine quality - 7 1 19 2 12 400 Loodiana, GO a Punjab. XVIII. 670 H O Magenta, first quality 5 28 1 ] i 2 15 Cashmere. XVIII. 671 o< Black, second quality 5 26 1 Cashmere. XVIII. 672 Grey, second quality 26 14| 300 Cashmere. XVIII. 673 5 -1 Green, fine texture - - - 6 20 1 6 15 3 10 Cashmere. XVIII. 674 fi Purple, fine texture -,50 26 14 Cashmere. XVIII. 675 Crimson, second quality 5 10 25 15 Cashmere. XVIII. 678 Crimson, coarse shawl cloth, inferior 6 21 27 1 7 Lahore. ^ in quality. XVIII. 664 fjamewar, striped and figured, fine 3 14 1 19 2 8 700 Kangra. 3 quality. XVIII. 66.5 5 < Red ground, pine pattern throughout 3 9 1 15 2 2 Cashmere. XVIII. 666 (jj Green ground, pine and flowered 3 16:27 Cashmere. L pattern. No attempt could, of course, be made to illustrate, in this way, the patterns of the Shawls. The three examples (Nos. 664, 665, and 666, Vol. xviii) have merely been inserted to show the material in its worked, or loom-embroidered condition. The ten specimens of the cloth are, however, calculated to give a good idea of the beauty of the dye, and the delicious softness of the fabric which forms, so to speak, the base of the Cashmere Shawl the comfort of which in wear, however, perhaps is diminished by the quantity and weight of the material with which it is so profusely but charmingly decorated. In the preceding description of the wool employed in the manufacture of the true Cashmere shawl, it will be observed that considerable importance is attached to the fact that it should, in all cases, consist of the down called pushum, which is found upon goats pastured in Ladak and other elevated regions to the north of the Himalayas. There are no doubt very excellent reasons for this distinction ; but on this point we would remark that whatever these may be, the preference given to the Goat Wool cannot be ascribed merely to its superior fineness. These downs act as a protection from the intense cold, and it is probable that all the hair-bearing animals in these regions possess them to some extent. The Yak and Camel, and even the Shepherd's Dog,* we know to do so, and the down of the two former is often found to be quite as fine as that of the Shawl-Goat itself. Again the beautifully fine sheep's wool of which the Rampore Chuddar is said to be manufactured, frequently equals, in softness, that from the goat : it would appear, however, not to admit, equally with the latter, of the attachment of dyes, and it is probably in this respect that the chief difference is to be found. * Vigne, "Travels in Kashmir," vol. II. p. 124. CAMia's II AIR CLOTH, ETC. 135 On the subject of the sources of the different wools employed in the manufacture of various fabrics found in Northern India, considerable obscurity prevails. The group to which we have next to allude affords an illustration of this. PUTTOO ; CAMEL'S HAIR CLOTH, &o. The material called Puttim, of which the examples given in the books are embraced in the next Table, is usually considered to be manufactured from the inferior qualities of shawl-wool, and such may often be the case ; but the fine down of other animals as, for instance, the camel, is, we believe, capable of making a fabric equally good in respect of softness. Two Itonn Jiodeypore. XVII. 663 HtJF Ss - Coarse ; plain, uncoloured 3 16 2 9 9 14 Jeypore. XVII. 659 Large coloured check, English H pattern. 4 2 21 15 15 1 Delhi. XVI. 634 Thick, coarse, uncoloured, used Kangra. " '-i ^ a for trowseriugs. XVII. 650 -^ L. U H Thick, coarse, uncoloured. Used # Kohat. i- X < ~ for coats and cloaks by the -: peasants of Kohat. XVII. 654 g| Thick, coarse, uncoloitred ; dark '2 27 1 2 2 10 1 Bangalore. Sent - -r - ~ brown sheep's wool. Fringed from Madras. ends. XVI. 638 Plain, uncoloured ; strong and 7 2 3 7 15 0113 Sattara. H M rough. XVI. 639 < Plain, dark chocolate colour. 14 9 2 - Thibet. .. Used for making shawls for _: - - - the Lamas or priests. XVI. 640 K * - Black and white check pattern - 5 5 1 29 5 2 18 Delhi. XVI. 641 HH . ^ a Plain black, strong. Ends 3 14 1 13 2 15 060 Beejapoor. ^s fringed. XVI. 643 gs Plain black. Fringed ends 7 22 2 6 8 8 Beckaneer, N.W. B i India. XVII. G45 Plain black. Fringed ends 3 6 1 8 3 4 10 Bellary. Sent from Madras. XVII. 655 a f Wool mixed with camels' hair 2 20 1 18 5 1 6 Bangalore. ^ Very stout and thick, similar Obtained in to No. 654 in texture. Madras. XVII. 657 Z -^ Wool and horsehair. Black, with 18 14 10 10 13 Kangra. j a chequered stripe. Coarse o and harsh texture. Used for * (__ rugs. Sufficient material for trowsers for about 2s. Grf. WOOLLENS. STRIPED. The three specimens (Nos. 646, 647, and 656) included in the next Table afford examples of patterns in vogue at Sikkim, as well as in Nepal and Thibet. The group (44) at top of Plate VII.,* facing next page, shows the manner in which the fabric is made up for wear in Sikkim the similarity to the Scotch kilt is very obvious. Figures 46 and 47 in the same Plate illustrate the way in which the Cumllee is worn in the cold weather for the protection of the head and shoulders. Fig. 48 shows a scanty woollen garment in the made-up form, and No. 43, with standing figure in group 49, illustrate the wearing of a large wrapper and thick hooded cloak of felt, a material in common use in many parts .of High Asia, to which reference has now to be made. This Plate, on account of our having, after its execution, chosen to deal first with the Cashmere Shawls, is made to follow, instead of precede, PL VIII. (3428.; x 140 WOOLLEN GOODS. No. of Description. Measurement. Weight of Piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or where obtained. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. s. d. XVII. 646 Woollen. Green, with cross stripes in Sikim. Obtained blue, crimson, white, &c. Colours good. from Thibet. Pattern similar to Darjeeling produc- tions. XVII. 647 Woollen. Very strong. Green, with 19 91 6 14 Thibet. 1 inch cross stripes in crimson, yel- low, blue, and white, f inch apart. Good colours. Worn by both sexes. Darjeeling figure. XVII. 656 Woollen. Coarse quality. Black, with 2 9 15 2 Kathmandoo. f inch crimson, yellow, and white stripes. Made and used by the Hill tribes. Sewn together to form any desired width. FELTS. Nos. 660, 661, and 662 in the books, the particulars of which are included in the next and last Table in this division, are three specimens of Felt; the first being from Ladak, and the other two from Jeypore and Rajpootana. These felts are used for blankets and cloaks, and for making into leggings, &c. Coloured wool is often used with great effect in the production of patterns upon the surface of the material. The following is the description of the manufacture of felts, or Namads, given by Major H. B. Lumsden in his "Mission to Kandahar, I860." " The mode of manufacture is apparently very simple, and the beauty and accuracy of the patterns in the finer kinds is astonishing. A large mat, called chappar, formed of the stems of the Guinea grass, bound together with thin cords and crushed, is the principal instrument used in their production, and for the finer kinds a large knife is used for mowing down the surface to an equal level and developing the clearness of the pattern. The Un, which is the best sort of felt, consists entirely of sheep's wool, is usually a mixture of wool with goat's and camel's hair picked and cleaned.* This is spread out evenly on the ' chappar ' which is then rolled up with firm pressure with the feet (the Peshwaries employ the back of the forearm in this process) unrolled and re-rolled from the opposite end. This process of rolling backwards and forwards, which occupies a considerable time, owing to the slow and continued to-and-fro action that accompanies the rolling and unrolling and revolving is continued for four or five hours, by which time the fibres have become firmly and intimately interwoven.f The felt is now taken up, washed * He tells us in another part of the work that great attention has to be paid to having the wool thoroughly carded and cleaned first. f In order to assist the felting-process we believe that hot water is employed in connexion with the operation here described. > WOOLLENS A3STX) SICXITS. FELTS. 141 with soap and water, dried, and again stretched on the c/tujtjt/tr, when coloured patches of wool are arranged according to pattern on its surface, and the whole is then again submitted to the rolling process for four or five hours, after which the felt is completed and fit for use. The finer kinds are trimmed with a mowing-knife, which greatly improves the appearance and brings out the distinctness of the colours. These felts are commonly used as carpets, cushions, bedding, horse- clothing, &c., and by nomadcs as a warm lining for their hair tents. They vary in price from one to two rupees to fifty or sixty rupees per piece, according to pattern, size, and quality." No. of Measurement. Place of Description. \\Yi K ht of Piece. Cost. Manufacture, or whence Vol. Sample. Length. Width. procured. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. s. d. XVII. 660 Felted material. Plain uncoloured body. 31 18 9 1 Ludak. Kinl 1'or 6i indies ornamented with coloured silks in diamond pattern. formed by the needle. Used for leg- gings, &c. xvn. 661 Felted material, for cloak to cover the head and body. Large circular figure in 1 21 2 21 3 13 Jeypore, Rajpoo- tana. coloured wool pressed into the surface of the piece.* XVII. 662 Felted material. Large circular figure 3 1 20 4 8 ^__ Ditto. formed by fragments of bright coloured cloth pre.ssed into the surface of the felt.* * Not shown in all the samples. This concludes our remarks on woollen fabrics used as articles of body clothing. But the wool on the skin is also occasionally employed for that purpose. Figures 45 and 50, PI. VII. , facing p. 140 opposite afford illustrations of sheep's skin used for this purpose in Sind and elsewhere in North-western India. x 2 142 CARPETS AND RTIGS. CARPETS AND HUGS. The class of manufactures to which we have now to refer are of interest not merely as frequently affording examples of taste of the highest order, but likewise on account of the probable commercial importance of some of them to India at a future period. In India, as in all other countries where it is the custom of the inhabitants to sit on the floor or ground, rugs or carpets, varying in size from less than a yard to many feet square, are in common use amongst all classes, except, perhaps, the very poorest. The manufacture is, therefore, one of very considerable extent ; but although the common kinds are made in almost every district throughout the country, the production of those of a superior description is confined to a comparatively small number of places. Amongst these some, such as Ellore and Masulipatam (in Madras), Warungul (near Hydrabad in the Deccan), Benares, Mirzapore, and Goruckpore, have long been favourably known, and appear calculated to retain their position, whilst in other localities the attempt to imitate European patterns is producing a degradation in the character of the productions which, if persisted in, will prove fatal to the trade. In place of the beauty and truthfulness of the native design, some of the carpets and rugs lately imported into this country are simply hideous pale colours in contrast with raw yellows and blues common European chintz patterns intermixed with the distorted remains of fine native designs. No. of Description. Measurement. Weight of Piece. Cost. Place of Manufacture, or whence procured. Vol. Sample. Length. Width. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. s. d. XI. 435 r Suttringee, Rug, blue stripes 1 32 32 2 4 030 Mangalore, Madras. XT. 436 Suttringee, Rug, blue stripes 5 13 2 20 15 3 020 Mangalore, en W Madras. XI. 437 a o Suttringee, Rug, blue and white. This 2 14 1 4 2 5 020 Palamcottah, m NH is an example of the Sepoy regu- Madras. H , lation rug. XL 438 & ^ 03 Suttringee, blue and white - 2 16 'l 6i 2 14 020 Palamcottah, fc Madras. XL 439 O E Suttringee, figured stripes in blue 2 30 1 24 8 11 Agra, N.W.P. a and red. XI. 440 Suttringee, figured stripes in blue, 2 30 1 19 8 13 Agra, N.W.P. red, and white. XVIII. 699 {^Suttringee, coloured stripes - 2 30 1 24 Agra, N.W.P. XI. 434 Sleeping rug, with looped pile,* of 2 8 1 24 6 2 Upper Assam. bleached cotton. The rug from which the samples have been cut was formed by two pieces sewn together. XVIII. 698 COTTON CAKPET ; short pile - 3 12 1 24 Wurrungul, Deccan. XVIII. 695 fDeep pile ... - Ellore, Madras. XVIII. 696 3 J Short pile - --- 2 16 1 18 Wurrungul, 11 Deccan. XVIII. 697 Q 1 ^ l_ Short close pile Bokhara. XVIII. 700 SILK, short pile 2 20 1 18 r __ Wurrungul, 1 1 Deccan. * There is also a woollen fatric called Pureepuz the pile of which is formed of loops. CAB.PETS \N.> i;i < M;', These errors are not those into which the native artist will fall, //' left / Vol. XVIII., is an example of a pile which is too long, or, as it is called, deep, to be recommended. No. 696, from Warungul, a place which in point of quality of texture and of beauty of pattern has furnished some of the best examples of this class of goods ever sent to this country from India, is that which is considered suitable for imitation, and that which probably could be practically obtained ; although No. 697, from Bokhara, is the example nearest to perfection in the way of a carpet texture of the kind in question. In the fifth and last division we place silk carpets, or those in which the pile is of that expensive material. No. 700, the last example given in the Books, affords a specimen of this beautiful, but for all ordinary purposes, too costly production. These silk carpets, however, frequently display a richness and beauty which it would be difficult, if not impossible, to obtain from the use of any other textile substance, and may possibly come into occasional use in the houses of the rich in this and other European countries. In India they are often used by the great on State occasions. In Plate XI. following PL X. opposite are given four illustrations of carpets and rugs in the India Museum Collection, which we have considered it expedient to present simply in outline, it being extremely difficult by any method short of the most careful hand-work to do justice to the colouring. The foregoing concludes our remarks on the Textile Manufactures of India proper. N 2. l^t^^Aj^^^kLib, N2 3. N94-. itfitJMu ijffl >jq i iv I? lOjukit'ti v ij . < f TfT'\ '-'I ' < I. 1 " .,!- I'l 'i.-j- , (. .i L ''i.rV.v 1 Mk'.A A CARPETS & RUO-S. COTTOIT FABRICS i'KOM (KNTKAI, ASIA AND RUSSIA. 145 FABRICS VKOM CENTRAL ASIA AM) HUSSIA. In Vol. XV. of the series of sample books we have included a number (67) of specimens of fabrics which are stated to have been manufactured in various parts of what is usually known as Central Asia, and also in Russia. These are of very considerable interest as affording a key to some of the kinds of Textile materials suited to the wants and tastes of the vast population inhabiting the countries to the north and northwest of the Himalayas ; and these along with many other productions are, probably, capable of being supplied from the Indian side by the exercise of British and Native enterprise. The specimens alluded to were originally purchased in the Shikarpore Bazaar, in Upper Sind, and forwarded to Sir Henry Willock, when chairman of the Court of Directors of the East India Company. The samples, so far as we have been able to ascertain, were unaccompanied by any special memorandum giving the particulars of the collection, so that we are unable to say to whom we are indebted for the selection of the specimens. The information furnished with the labels attached to the samples, giving the place of manufacture, the name of the material, and the price at which it was bought in Shikarpore has been transferred to the subjoined Table in which the various examples have been grouped geographically and in the following order, viz., from Bokhara, Meshed, Herat, Yezd, Balk, Kokan, and lastly Russia. Although the information as given would imply that the samples were, in each case, manufactured at the place mentioned, the statement must be taken with a certain amount of reservation, as we believe that at least some of them are from China, while a few others not inserted under the head of Russia are probably from that country.* * The cotton twilled material called Naukrr, also Naka, in white, and also in blue, green, &c., is a favourite throughout all parts of Turkistan. Eegarding this class of goods, Mookhtar Shah, of Cashmere, who, in 1852, sent to Major George Macgregor, Deputy Commissioner of Lahore, certain samples brought by merchants from Turkistan, writes, " Of the Naka cloths from Russia, and all parts of Turkistan, and through the country of Khorassan, thousands of camel-loads are annually brought into Bokhara, and from thence they are taken to other countries. " They are named in the Turkish language, but it is unknown by what name they are called in Russia, but in Khorassan and Cashmere they are called by the Turkish names. They are universally used, and are of various colours. Ten or fifteen thousand pieces are brought to Cabool alone. They are made up at Bokhara in dresses called Chogha, "All the middling clashes and the, poor make use of them. Each piece makes not less than three Choghas. The merchants make their purchases at Bokhara, and carry them to other countries, pricing their goods according to the distance they have to travel." The Book containing the samples, and the Report from which the above is au extract is in our possession. A few of the examples differ from those referred to in the Tables, and may, together with the information attached to them, prove of use for reference. 146 .FABRICS FROM CENTRAL ASIA AND RUSSIA. Vol. No. Description. Measurement. Weight of Piece. Cost. Length. Width. FROM BOKHARA. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. .v. d. XV. 561 Uddrussa. Silk and cotton. Cotton weft. Striped, with 70 111 080 coloured silk in the warp. Dark and light green, crimson, pink, and blue. Watered surface. XV. 562 Silk. Light texture. Weft of blue, warp of crimson. A 25 2-inches wide border with 1 inch yellow centre, with edges of blue, white, and crimson lines. Principal end consists of a broad cross stripe of gold-coloured yellow silk with central and marginal lines in purple and crimson. XV. 563 Known as Uddrussa in Bokhara, and E'ac/in in Sind. 7 9 12 11 Twilled material. Cotton weft, coloured silks in warp. Large irregular pattern in crimson, yellow, white, and green, with watered surface. Used for linings for coats. XV. 564 Called Uddrussa in Bokhara, and Elacha in Sind. Silk 3 16 19 13 and cotton. Twilled material. Cotton weft. Coloured silks in warp. Large pattern, blue, white, crimson, yellow, and green on a black ground. Surface watered. " Much prized and sought after." XV. 565 Vlukh. Silk and cotton. Cotton weft, coloured silks in 36 20i !0 warp. Peculiar pattern in flashed colours, viz. white, crimson, yellow, green, and purple on a blue ground. Watered surface. XV. 566 Goolbuddan. Silk, for trowserings. Purple, with narrow 32 29 2 10 stripe of white and crimson. XV. 567 Silk. Light texture. A flashed pattern in yellow, white, 26 purple, green, &c. on a crimson ground. Border (2 inches wide), with 1 inch yellow centre stripe, with purple, crimson, and white lined edges. Principal end (65 inches) of crimson silk, with a broad weft stripe of yellow. XV. 568 Bakisum and Elacha. Silk and cotton striped. Weft of 5 121 i 12 cotton, warp of silks in crimson, light blue, green, and yellow stripes of various widths. Twilled material, with watered surface. Obtainable at most of the marts of North Western India. XV. 569 Kootnee. A glazed cotton chintz. Stripes of various 3 18 2H 080 colours and widths. In pretty general use. XV. 570 Glazed cotton. Stripes of various widths and colours, prin- 11 cipally crimson, green, and yellow. XV. 571 Khoodbauf. A. Silk. Light texture. Small pattern of 10 29 046 angulated stripes in white silk on a figured green ground. A. B. B. Similar material and pattern, the figured ground being brown instead of green. XV. 572 Cotton or chintz. Glazed. Stripes of a chequered pattern 20 A. in green, yellow, and red, with plain central stripe of green in a yellow ground ; and a flashed red figure in rows between the stripes. 572 Ditto. Glazed. Red ground, with an inch stripe eon- B. sisting of a small figured centre enclosed within blue i stripes. XV. 573 Nauker. Cotton. Plain green twilled material - - 14 XV. 574 Goolbuddan. Striped silk in various colours, blue, green, 32 25 3 11 yellow, purple, &c. Border a green stripe with white and crimson line edges. XV. 575 Kunawey. Plain yellow silk 30 27Jr 027 XV. 576 Ditto. Shot silk. Crimson warp. Yellow weft 30 tf 027 XV. 577 Ditto. Shot silk. Light blue weft. Crimson warp - 30 27i 027 XV. 578 Ditto. Plain green silk 30 27i 027 XV. 579 Ditto. Shot silk. Pink warp. White weft - 30 27^ 027 XV. 580 Ditto. Shot silk. Green warp. Crimson weft 30 27^ : 027 XV. 581 Ditto. Shot silk. Light blue warp. Yellow weft 30 27i 027 XV. 582 Ditto. Shot silk. Dark blue warp. Crimson weft - 30 27| ! 027 lAIMMCS FROM CENTRAL ASIA AND RUSSIA. 147 Vol. No. Description. .Measurement. Weight at I'irci'. Cost Length. Width. FROM MKSIIKD. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. oz. .. ..;,.,, 4- Whence pri" BfOi Name anil t'sf. Material. Quality, to. 1 rn t'.T Place of Manufacture, &c. yds. ins. Mis. ms. e *. a. l Turban Cotton Bleached. Common material 15 12 - QdooMh 2 Ditto TVf+n , ditto 6 18 12 1 12 15 " Bhurtpore, 31 mill's from Agra. 3 4 UlttO Ditto Ditto " * Ditto 8 18 1 - - . Ditto 5 Ditto Ditto Bleached. Thin texture 1G 1 3 1-1 Kanicra, Punjab. 6 Ditto Ditto Ditto. I'HM- texture 20 11 8 . . . Cashmere. 7 Ditto - Ditto Ditto. Plain ends - - 24 12 n s; . Gya, 289 miles north-west from Calcutta. 1 Ditto Ditto Ditto 23 18 13 1 2 - . . Sind. 9 Ditto Ditto rlied. Coarse thick material - 3 18 9 11 - Arraean. 10 Ditto Ditto 1 !ish thread 22 13i 9 . . . Benares. 11 Ditto Ditto Of Indian thrcnd; made same time as No. lu. 22 135 13 . Ditto. 12 Ditto Ditto iL Fine light texture 17 12 7 - - Hoshiarpore, Punjab. 13 Ditto Ditto Fine .... 33 10 9 . . . Hyderabad, Deccan. 11 Ditto Ditto - 20 9 9 v Ditto. 15 Ditto Ditto Unbleached 29 12} 7} - - - Chunderee. 16 Ditto Ditto Gauze. Good texture ... 21 9 6 048 Madras. 17 Ditto Ditto - Unbleached - - - - 21 101 10 . . . Hyderabad, Deccan. 18 Ditto Ditto Ditto 33 13 9 . . . Ditto. 19 Ditto Ditto Dyi-il. Two jrolil strijir-s extend down inl>al end for four yards. 19 18 13 - Oodeypore, Eajpootana. 20 Ditto Ditto Colours laid on U 10 7 . Bhurtpore, 34 miles west of Agra. 21 Ditto Ditto Scarlet. Printed gold centre 14 18 7 7 - Ditto. 22 Ditto Ditto Red dye. (inM strini's in centre and rito throughout whole icnirth. Gold spots on 4i yards of principal end. 13 17 12 Uoshiarpore, Punjab. 23 Ditto Ditto . 18 18 9 4 . .- 24 Ditto Ditto "Fine texture - ... 17 18 9 31 . . . 25 Ditto Ditto Ditto 18 18 Si 4 . . . 26 Ditto Ditto Ditto 18 18 9 4 . . . Jeypoor, Eajpootana. 27 Ditto Ditto Ditto 24 11 8 . . . 28 Ditto Ditto Ditto 17 9 35 . . . 29 Ditto Ditto Ditto - 21 10 54 - -. 30 Ditto Ditto Coarse .... 15 9 94 . - - Sydapct, Madras. 31 Ditto Ditto Common material and pattern - 12 11 1 2 74 Pomady, Bought in Ba- zaar, Madras. 32 Ditto Ditto Ditto - ... 16 18 9 ISi 030 Pomady, Madras. 33 Ditto Ditto Ditto 23 12 0-13 010 Madura, Madras. 34 Ditto Ditto . 16 18 10 154 3 14 Madras. 35 Ditto Ditto Square head covering. Gold thread borders. a 24 2 24 12 13 Madura, Madras. 36 Ditto Cotton, with gold thread. The dye used is said to be remarkable for its excellence. The gold thread stripes extend 12 yards down centre of principal end, ana 44 yards of opposite end. 10 yards are entirely plain. 26 18 15 1 34 400 Ditto. 37 Ditto Ditto Gold stripes down principal end for 6 yards, the remainder plain. 23 12 13 100 Ditto. 38 Ditto Silk and Cotton . 20 IS 10 8} Oil Berhampore, Gangam, Madras. 39 Ditto Ditto Cotton, with crimson silk ends. Head covering, nearly square. Gold border on each side. 3 18 1 9 1 11 2 15 3 Coimbatore, Madras. 40 Ditto Cotton Deep gold borders. Head covering, nearly square. 1 22 1 16 64 ... Bhurtpore, near Agra. The description given in this and the following Tables is that which originally accompanied the samples, and it is in some instances imperfect. For correct classification and details see text, t The prices given in this and the following Tables represent the cost of the articles hi 1854. For farther remarks on this head see foot-note, p. 17. 154 VOL. 2. GARMENTS FOR MEN. DESCRIPTION. Xo. Length. Width. Weight. Price. Whence procuivil, Place of Manufacture, &c. Name and Use. Material. Quality, &c. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. ozs. s. d. u Man's garment Cotton ... Gold flowered border and end. Favourite 8 21 1 19 1 3 12 Madura. Bought in Ma- texture. dras. a Ditto Ditto - Fine light texture. Two pieces woven, ( as usual, in one length, with a " fag " ) between to permit of their being rcaO Long piece, . -n Short piece, > 1 13 1 3 1 10 Woopparaddy, Madras. dily separated. v 3 4 ) 18 Ditto Muslin - - . 2 2 6 Oil Amee, Madras. 41 Ditto ... Cotton Silk in principal ends and borders. Two C Long piece, -\ pieces woven in one length, with a) "fag" between to permit of their j 5 9 Short piece, ( l 9 1 8 080 Salem, Madras. being readily separated. 3 9 ) 1 > Ditto Ditto - Common texture. Two pieces woven in ( Long piece, ~\ one length, with "fag" between toj permit of then- being readily scpa-y 5 18 Short piece, 1 10 1 9 030 Gangam, Madras. rated. V 3 4 J '.out; piece. ^ 46 Ditto Ditto . - - Two pieces woven in one length, with f "fag" between to permit of their be--< ing readily separated. (^ 5 20 Short piece, 2 27 jl 2 1 4 026 Gangam. Bought in Ma- dras. r Long piece, X -17 Ditto Ditto - Gauze texture. Ditto ditto -< 5 4 Short piece, 2 27 r 6 14 023 Nagang. Bought in Ma- dras. 48 Boy's garment Ditto - Borders of different colours, silk in end 1 34 27 2-fa 014 Congevcram, Madras. Bought in Madras. 49 Han's garment Ditto - Two pieces woven in one length, with ( " fag " between to permit of their be- -s ing readily separated. (^ Long piece, 3 I) Short piece, 2 27 V 1 18 1 11 088 Woozzoor, Madras. f Long piece, N 50 Ditto 3 !l Short piece, 2 18 1 1 6 039 Nellore, Madras. 51 Ditto ... Muslin ... . 3 1 9 1 3 10 6 Arnee, Madras. 52 Ditto Cotton ... Coarse muslin 7 27 1 9 13} 030 Nagang. Bought in Ma- dras. f [.on piece 53 Ditto Ditto - - - Good texture. Two pieces woven in one I length, with " fag " between to permit < of their being readily separated. ( 5 9 Short piece, 3 1 < 1 9 1 11 080 Salem, Madras. " Ditto Ditto Two pieces woven in one length, with ( " fai< " between to permit of their be- < ing readily separated. / Long piece, 4 18 Short piece, 2 27 jl 1 2J 2 14 Congeveram. Bought in Madras. f Long piece, -\ 55 Ditto Ditto - Ditto \ 4 27 Short piece, 2 27 r * 1 6 056 Ditto. f Lous pipce, \ 56 Ditto Ditto - Ditto \ 5 27 Shortpiece, 2 18 r u 1 2 14 6 Rnjnlimundry. Bought in Madras. 57 Ditto - - Ditto - 8 18 1 11 1 3 146 Madura. Bought in Ma- dras. 5S Ditto ... Ditto '- Badly dyed - ... 8 9 1 10 1 11 070 Masidipatam, Madras. 59 Ditto - Ditto - . 4 9 1 13 040} Mylapore, Madras. 60 Ditto ... Ditto - . 2 9 1 9 10} 023 Karikal, Madras. 01 Ditto Cotton and Silk With yellow silk check 3 27 1 2 10 046 Mylapore, Madras. 02 Ditto Cotton ... . 6 1 4 1 5} 079 Coonathoor, Madras. 63 Ditto - Ditto .... 3 27 1 3 10} 036 Ditto. 01 Pour woven together, with "fags" be- tween. single piece, 2 9 single piece 1 4 4 026 Karikal. Bought in Ma- dras. 05 Ditto Ditto - - - . 3 18 1 2 1 1 030 Pulicat, Madras. 06 Ditto Ditto - . 3 7 1 6 12 029 Mylapore. Bought in Madras. 67 Ditto Ditto - - - . 4 9 1 2 14 080 Pulicat. Bought in Ma- dras. 08 Ditto ... Ditto - . 3 27 1 2 1 3 053 Pulicat, Madras. 09 Ditto ... Ditto . 7 12 1 2 1 6 070 Mylapore, Madras. 70 Ditto Ditto - - - . . S 9 1 1 9 076 Mylapore or St. Thomas, Madras. 71 Ditto - Ditto - . 2 9 1 4 7} 020 Coonathoor, Madras. 72 Ditto Ditto - . 6 27 1 3 1 6 080 Ditto. 73 Ditto - Ditto - . 3 18 34 9 027} Ditto. 74 Ditto Ditto - . 6 18 1 1 11 2 7i Kurnool, Madras. 75 Ditto Ditto - ..... 5 28 1 4 1 7 033 Gangam, Madras. 73 Ditto Ditto - - - . 3 1 3 8} 013 Cundapoora, N. Canara. 77 Ditto Ditto - Unbleached thread - 8 9 1 6 1 10 024} Vencatagorry, Madras. 73 Ditto Ditto - . 2 18 27 7 010 Mangalore S. Canara. 79 Boy's garment Ditto - Very common .... 1 3 19 2 . . . Biekul, N. Canara. 80 Man's garment Ditto - . 5 9 1 3 1 - Coimbatore, Madras. 155 VOL. 3. GAUM K NTS FOR MEN, fto. No. DESi inn lux. Width. Weight. Pita Whence procured, Place of Manufacture \. . rial. Quali -1 arment or " Loongec * . ill half widths with pjld lace boril> .iili.'; l\vo of these widths b." ; her form the conn vils. ins. yds. ins. Ills. o/s. 141 s. a. Hhawulporc. 82 Ditto Dilto - - - This, unlike the previous one, U woven in one piivc, with a border on each side, same as in pattern. 3 10 1 16 1 4J . .Ihehmi, Punjab. 83 Ditto Ditto - With silver thread introduced iu ends - 6 21 1 14 1 1 . Kawul Piiidec. M , - . Ditto Woven in half widths with pold laee :unl coloured silk border on one tide; the two widths sown together form the Complete scarf. i ;i 9ini:l>lil i i 'r 2 yards, the i plain silk. 1 2 1 I! 150 IlilM. 1C3 . Ditto . 7 1 i r, 046 Madras. 1M Ditto Silk - - - i >al end worked with gold 8 18 1 12 1 15 3 10 4 ii pore iu Ganpun, Madras. 105 Ditto rottoii ilk in principal end 7 '-'7 1 2 i a 0120 Madras. 166 Ditto - - Ditto 6 18 1 1 n r, o Sydapat, Madras. 167 Ditto Ditto little silk in principal end 27 1 2 i 5; 049 .Madras. ua Ditto Ditto \Vit II Ml'iv in Uini.TS ... S I) 1 8 i 11 160 Gangam, Madras. 1G9 Ditto Dilto Silk in principal end. Borders two 7 9 1 2 1 13 076 Mylaporc. limiu'lit in .Madras l!a/,aar. 170 Ditto Ditto Ditt<>. Wliiti- -triiii's in body of i; yards in ] 7 27 1 2 1 7 12 Nought in Madras li:i/.;uir. 171 Ditto Ditto -, Silk in borders and end - 8 1 9 1 9 IS Hangaloro. Bought iu M:ulnis l!:i/.a:ir. 172 Ditto Ditto s and ends. Gold in prin- cipal cud. 7 27 1 5 1 71 1 1 Trichinopoly. Bought in Madnis l!;i/;i:ir. 17.'! Ditto Ditto With silk and gold in end 7 1 1 3 10 Condapore, S. Canara. 174 Ditto Silk With deep borders and ends 8 1 3 1 160 Tanjore, Madras. 175 Ditto Ditto 1. Ornamental border and end - S II 1 7 1 4 1 10 Combaconum, Madras. 176 Ditto - Cotton Silk in end ..... 7 1 11 11 Madras. 177 Ditto Ditto Common material 7 27 1 3 1 7 050 Ventapollam. Bought in -Madras. 178 Ditto Ditto Silk stripes in principal end 7 31 15 13 Combaconum. Bought in Madras. 179 Ditto Ditto Silk in principal end. Stripes in body of piece run about 4} yards, and then u*. 7 27 1 2 1 7 12 lure. Bought in Madras. 180 Ditto Ditto - 8 9 1 6 2 . . . Coimbatore, Madras. 1S1 Ditto Ditto Borders of different colours 7 9 1 4, 1 8 053 1'oiidii'lierry. Bought in Madras. 182 Ditto Ditto Favourite teiture - 8 27 1 6 1 3 . . . Arncc. Bought in Madras. 183 Ditto - Ditto Silk in principal end 8 1 4 1 8 056 Sydapat. Bought in Madras. 18 Ditto Ditto Common material - 3 1 3 1 12 039 Ventapollam. Bought iu Madras. 185 Ditto - Ditto Strong and durable; common pattern - 7 1 2 1 043 Force Arnce. Bought in Madras. 186 Girl's Garment Ditto Common material ; favourite colour S 18 27 10 013 Congevcram. Bought in Madras. 187 Woman's Garment Ditto . 7 1 1 10 023 Bellary. Bought in 188 Ditto Ditto . 8 27 1 7 1 6} 030 Ooppaddy. Bought in Madras. 189 Ditto Muslin - Narrow stripe of gold worked in end - 8 18 1 9 1 4 069 Ganioim. Bought in Madras. 190 Ditto Cotton Light texture .... 7 M 1 4 1 3 041 Arnce. Bought in Madras. 191 Ditto - Ditto Common material 5 n 1 1 6 030 Vcuiapollam. Bought in Madras. 192 Ditto Muslin . a o 1 9 2 5 C Ganiram. Bougho in Madras. 193 Ditto - Cotton - Common material - ... S 1 1 3 010 Coimbatore. Bought in Madras. 191 Ditto Ditto Coarse --.... 3 1 IS 016 Biekul, N. Canara. 195 Ditto Ditto Common material ... 6 1 1 7 019 Oniircvoram. Bought in Madras. 196 Ditto Ditto Deep pine pattern in end - - 3 9 1 8 1 6 033 Arcot. Bought in Madras. 197 Ditto Muslin - Narrow stripes of gold in principal end 6 18 27 8 060 Madras. 198 Ditto Cotton Coarse 6 30 29 1 6 2 11 Cuddapah. Bought in Madras. 199 Ditto Ditto. Covering for head and shoulders. Glazed chintz - 2 9 1 14 12 . Poonary. Bought in Madras. 200 Ditto Ditto Ditto ... 2 9 1 14 IS . . . Ditto. z 2 158 VOL. 6. GAEMENTS FOR WOMEN. No. DESCRIPTION. Lcnu'Ui. Width. Weight. Price. Whence procure], Place of Manufacture, &e. Name and Use. Material. Quality, &c. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. n/s. s. d. 201 Employed for making up into bodices or jackets callrd "choices," woman's garment. Silk With gold border 4 27 1 11 1 1 2 16 Sattara, Deccan. 202 Ditto Ditto Ditto 4 351 11 2 16 Ditto. 203 204 205 Ditto Ditto Woman's garment Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto 4 23 4 21 8 29 I 1 1 i 121 1 14i 1 41 400 400 3 10 Ditto. Ditto. Nagpore, Berar. With wide borders and deep gold flowered end. 206 Ditto Silk and a little cotton . 8 32 1 01 1 7 220 Ditto. 207 Ditto Silk and cotton gauze . 9 8 1 9 1 31 2 18 Ditto. 208 Ditto Cotton and silk . 4 28 34 8} . . . Benares. 209 Ditto Silk and cotton This sample, unlike the majority of such articles of apparel, is without any special ornament in the ends. 9 26 30 1 91 ... Ditto. 210 Ditto ... Ditto - 7 30 1 G 1 15 160 Belgaum, 42 miles N.W. of Dharwar. 211 Ditto Cotton with silk . 7 32 1 5 1 131 11 Ditto. 212 Ditto Silk A little gold thread in principal end 9 16 1 6 2 380 Ditto. 213 Ditto Cotton Silk in borders and ends 8 17 1 8 2 3 100 Ditto. 214 Ditto Cotton and silk . 8 1 6 1 14 100 Ditto. 215 Ditto Ditto . 4 16 1 3 11 040 Surat, Bombay. 216 Ditto - Cotton ... Deep silk borders and ends 8 18 1 10 2 2 2 16 Eelgaum, 42 miles N. V. of Dharwar. 217 Ditto Ditto Deep silk borders and silk in ends 8 18 1 10 2 5 16 Ditto. 218 Ditto Silk Gold thread in borders and ends 3 4i 1 15 9 018 Bombay. 219 Ditto Silk and cotton - 7 27 1 9 2 4 180 Belgaum, 42 miles N.W. of Dharwar. 220 Ditto ... Cotton 5 16 1 2 1 2 . . . Gya, 289 miles N.W. of Calcutta. 221 Ditto Ditto Borders of different colours, one side being red, the other blue. 4 22 1 22 11 030 Calcutta. 222 Ditto Ditto Narrow stripe in principal end, pattern inserted " crossways." 3 23 3 020 Ditto. 223 Ditto Ditto Narrow white stripe in both ends 2 32 26 51 020 Ditto. 224 Ditto Ditto Ditto 3 -22 29 6i 020 Ditto. 225 Ditto Ditto Pattern inserted "crossways," showing full width and borders. S 18 30 6 020 Ditto. 226 Ditto Ditto Pattern sample inserted crossways, showing one border narrow and the other broad. 3 IS 29 61 019 Ditto. 227 Ditto ... Ditto Narrow stripe in each end 4 27 1 3 11 030 Ditto. 228 Ditto Ditto . 4 32 1 2 12 030 Ditto. 229 Ditto Ditto Pattern sample inserted crossways. Nar- row red stripe in principal end. 2 27 25 020 Ditto. 230 Ditto, for petticoat skirts Ditto The sample extended shows one half of the whole length of piece, which when complete is cut in two at the centre, and joined at the sides toform a skirt. The other half is similar to the one shown. 2 16 23 61 Pegu. 231 Ditto Ditto Ditto 2 12 231 65 . Ditto. 232 Ditto Ditto Ditto 2 8 22 61 . . . Ditto. 233 Ditto Ditto Ditto 2 8 21 61 . . . Ditto. 234 Ditto Ditto With embroidered silk borders. The piece is cut at the half length, and joined at sides to form skirt. 1 29 26 1 1 - Sylhet. 235 Ditto Ditto One border embroidered with yellow, the other with white silk. The piece is cut across at centre and joined at sides to form a skirt. 1 29 25 1 1 Ditto. 230 Ditto Ditto . 5 11 29 - . . . Kathamandoo, Nepal. 237 Ditto Ditto . 6 30 2 9 . . . Ditto. 238 Ditto Ditto . 5 31 1 9 . Ditto. 239 Ditto Ditto . 4 25 28 1 11 . . . Ditto. 2tO Ditto - . Ditto - 5 28 1 10 - - - Ditto. VOL. 7. M I SLINS, PLAIN AND EMBROIDERED. 159 Ho, DKSCBIFTIOX. Width. Weight. Whence procured, Place of Manufacture, &c. Name anil I rial. Quality, ,vr. MI " \br.nvnn " or " ({tinning yd*, ins. M M ,M!S. ins. 1 Ibs. ozs 75 t. . d 321 "Sullah" Muslin - Plain. Pino quality 13 1 9 440 Cuddapah, Madras. 322 Ditto .... Ditto Ditto. Superfine quality 1.-, iv 1 13 13 12 5 Arnee, Madras. " Dooroea Sullah " Ditto Striped 1(1 IS 27 15 llvilcrabad, Dei ItoiiKht in Madras. 324 . Ditto Ditto. Goodqualitv 14 1 4 1 4 15 Amoe, Madras. 325 "('h.irkhana Sullah" for children's drosses. Ditto (heck- 7 S3 1 4 5 10 Ditto. tat Ditto Ditto Ditto 7 34 1 1 5 10 Ditto. H) Ditto Ditto Ditto. Fine quality 10 1 4 9 146 Ditto. 328 Ditto , Ditto 13 1 2 1 14 080 Nellore, Madras. 329 Ditto Ditto Ditto. Finest quality 15 18 1 4 1 2 4 11 Arnee, Madras. 3,10 - Ditto lality. Pattern worked in loom - 15 1 180 Chicacolc, Madras. 331 . Ditto quality. Flower pattern loom wrought. 16 31 1 3 14 Ditto. 3.12 - Ditto Coloured check ... 15 39 1 01 6 1} Arnee, Madras. .T!3 . Ditto Ditto 10 32 12J 10 Ditto. 334 . Ditto Ditto 15 1 2 1 Si 15 Ditto. 3.15 . Ditto Ditto 7 30 1 040 Chicacolc, Madras. XV, . Ditto Ditto 7 32 1 040 Ditto. 337 . Ditto Ditto 7 32 9 030 Arnee, Madras 338 . Ditto Ditto 7 18 37 10 030 Ditto. 339 . Ditto Ditto 7 32 15 040 Chicacole, Madras. 340 . Ditto Ditto 7 32 15J 040 Ditto. 341 . Ditto Ditto. Fine quality 15 1 2 1 5 15 Arnee, Madras. Ml . Ditto Ditto 15 30 1 3 060 Chicacole, Madras. 313 - Ditto Coloured stripes. Very light texture 13 1 2 1 4} .0 11 Nellore, Madras. 344 Scarf, worn by Hindoo women. Ditto Printed 4 9 1 7 n l o Trichinopoly, Madras. 345 Ditto Ditto Ditto - - - 4 18 1 7 040 Ditto. 346 Ditto - Ditto Ditto 4 18 1 7} 040 Ditto. 347 Ditto - - - Ditto Ditto 4 18 1 fti 040 Madras. 348 Ditto - Ditto Ditto 4 18 1 7i (i r, n Ditto. 349 Ditto Ditto Ditto 4 27 38 6 040 Ditto. 350 Ditto - Ditto Ditto 4 18 1 2 61 040 Cuddapali, Madras. 351 . Silk Tartan 9 22 15 120 Tanjore, Madras. 352 . Silk and cotton heck - ... 11 27 22 1 070 Ditto. 353 Worn by women and children. Ditto Ditto 11 27 22 1 076 Ditto. 354 - Silk - - - Fine cross stripes 9 30 10 18 Ditto. 355 . Silk and cotton Striped 11 27 23 1 10 086 Ditto. 356 . Ditto Check 12 22 1 096 Ditto. 357 . Cotton - Dyed. Plain 6 9 25 101 030 Coonatoor, Madras. 358 - Silk and cotton Check - - - 11 27 22 1 090 Tanjore, Madras. 359 . Cotton laid. Imitation of English pattern - 6 21 14 040 *ulicat, Madras. 360 . Ditto Ditto 6 22 14 040 Jylapore, Madras. 162 VOL. 10. COTTON PIECE GOODS, DYED AND PRINTED. No. DESCRIPTION. Length Width. Weight. Price. Whence procured, 1'kicr of Manufacture, &c. Xamc and Use. Material. Quality, &c. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. ozs. s. d. Each, Each, Each, Each, 361 Kerchief, worn on head and Cotton Half dye. Eight woven in a piece 35 33 2} 008 Coonathoor, Madras. shoulders. Each, Each, Each, Each, 362 : Ditto Ditto Fast colours, ditto - 30 28 3J 71 Ditto. Each, Each, Eacli, Each, 363 Ditto Ditto - The glaze by a chank shell rubbed over 1 1 3 71 Ycntai>ollum, Madras. the surface. Eight woven in a piece. Each, Each, Each, Each, Ditto Ditto Ditto 1 1 3} 71 Ditto. Each, Each, Each, Each, 366 Ditto Ditto - Ditto 1 1 35 74 Ditto. Each, Each, Each, 360 Ditto Ditto Ditto 1 1 81 1 11 Ditto. 367 Chintz, with an end for Ditto - Printed and glazed ... 3 1 12 016 Arcot, Madras. covering the head and shoulders. 308 Piece goods . - - Ditto Print 3 24, 1 5 15i 020 Masulipatam, Madras. 369 Ditto Ditto - Print ; coarse .... 5 26 1 1 1 5 039 Ditto. 370 Chintz - Ditto Printed and glazed; good pattern and 3 27 1 2 . 080 Ditto. material. 371 Ditto Printed, with end pattern 4 18 1 15 040 Madras. 372 For petticoats Ditto Print .... 7 18 1 1 12 3 11 Bcllary, Madras. 373 Piece goods Ditto Print ; good pattern 4 1 6 1 1 2 71 Ponnary, Madras. 374 Ditto, " chetee," chintz - Ditto Print j coarse fabric ... 7 30 1 7 020 Arcot, Madras. 375 Ditto ditto - Ditto Ditto .... 9 1 2 10 4 Is Ponnary, Madras. 370 Ditto ditto - Ditto Ditto 3 18 1 6 14 2 li Ditto. 377 Ditto ditto - Ditto Print 3 IS 1 8 11 020 Arcot, Madras. 378 Ditto ditto - Ditto Ditto 3 18 1 8 14 020 Ditto. 379 Piece goods Ditto Ditto (imperfectly printed) 3 IS 1 2 12 020 Ditto. 380 Ditto Ditto Ditto 4 18 1 4 1 3 3 11 Ponnary, Madras. 381 Ditto, " chetee," chintz - Ditto Ditto 3 IS 1 5 1 020 Arcot, Madras. 382 Piece goods - Ditto Ditto 3 18 1 12 020 Ditto. 3S3 Ditto, "chetee," chintz - Ditto Ditto 9 18 1 2 12 4 11 Ponnary, Madras. 3S4 Ditto ditto - Ditto Ditto 18 1 7 1 12 3 101 Ditto. 335 Piece goods ... Ditto Ditto - 7 19 1 9 033 Bcllary, Madras. 380 Ditto Ditto Ditto 4 1 6 1 1 2 71 Ponnary, Madras. 387 Ditto, " chetee," chintz - Ditto - Ditto 5 1 15 020 Sydapat, Madras. 388 Ditto ditto - Ditto Ditto 6 1 1 5 046 Masulipatam, Madras. 389 Piece goods - Ditto Ditto 5 18 1 6 1 8 3 41 Ponnary, Madras. 300 Ditto Ditto Dittg ; coarse 5 27 1 1 12 3 11 Masulipatam, Madras. 391 Ditto Ditto Ditto 6 1 1 12 3 11 Ditto. 392 Ditto, "chetee," chintz - Ditto Ditto 7 29 1 9 020 Arcot, Madras. 393 Ditto ditto - Ditto - Ditto 9 1 2 2 8 4 11 Ponnary, Madras. 391 Piece Goods Ditto Ditto 7 31 1 12 023 Ditto. 335 Ditto Ditto - Ditto ; coarse .... 9 1 2 10 4 11 Ditto. 390 Ditto Ditto Ditto 7 9 32 1 10 023 Arcot, Madras. 397 Ditto, "gudkacheet" for Ditto 4 18 31 . 020 Agra, j\ T .W. Provinces. petticoats. 393 " Chetee," chintz for lining Ditto Print; coarse - 5 1 4 9 2 71 Arcot, Madras. tents. 309 Ditto Ditto - - Ditto 5 1 4 1 3 2 11 Ditto. 400 Ditto - Ditto Ditto - - 5 1 4 1 7 2 71 Ditto. 103 VOL. 11. COTTON PIECE GOODS, TOWKLI.IXC8, &c. tfo r. Width. Wright. Whom Xamo anil i rial. Quality. Ac. Phuv i re, &c. 4I>1 Gown-piece Cotton I'laicl pattern, imitation English - yds. ins. 6 yds. ins. Ibs. ozs. 13 . <1. 3 10} Mylaporr, Mudni*. IM Ditto Ditto - Ditto 5 27 21 13 030 <1 ulras. Ml . Ditto - . 11 21 1 3 n :, i; Tanjore, Madras. i'H , Ditto . 6 31 12 050 lure, Madras. 405 Ditto - Ditto Check pattern ... G 31 14 046 Ditto. 400 Ditto Ditto Ditto 6 20 28 11 020 Pulicat, Madras. 9 Ditto Ditto - Ditto 5 23 14 040 Mjlaporo, Madras. 408 Ditto Ditto - G 13 o 2.-, 12,1 020 Coonatboor, Madras. 409 Ditto Ditto - Small check pattern ... ti S 25 o 125 026 Ditto. 410 Ditto Ditto - - 7 G 20 12 020 Ditto. HI Ditto Ditto Check pattern G 30 20 11 020 Ditto. 1 10 2 4 083 080 Hyderabad, Deccan. 434 Rug for sleeping on - Ditto - Sewn together in centre ... 2 8 1 24 C 2 . . . Upper Assam. 435 Rug " suttringcc " - Ditto - 1 32 32 2 4 030 Mangalorc, Madras. 436 Ditto Ditto - 5 13 2 20 15 3 020 Ditto. i 7 Ditto Ditto - Sepoy regulation rug ... 2 14 1 4 2 5 020 Palaincottab, Madras. 433 Ditto Ditto - - - 2 10 1 fit 2 14 020 Ditto. 439 Ditto Ditto Very durable fabric - - 2 30 1 21 8 11 . . . Agra, N. W. Provinces. 410 Ditto Ditto Ditto 2 SO 1 19 8 13 . . . Ditto. (3428.) A A 164 VOL. 12. SILK AND COTTON PIECE GOODS. No. DESCEIPTJOIT. Length. Width. Weight. Price. Whence pro' Place of Manufacture, &c. Name and Use. Material. Quality, &c. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. ozs. s. d. '.ach piece, Each piece, ufich piece, Per piece, 441 J ieco goods for making up into "Cholecs" or close 111 t ing bodices for women. Silk - With gold stripes. The piece includes material for six "choices," separated by a " fag" woven between. 17 29 li 019 Tanjore, Madras. 442 Ditto Ditto With silver stripes. Six in a piece 17 29 li 019 Ditto. 443 Ditto Ditto Ditto. ditto 17 29 li 019 Ditto. 444 Ditto Ditto and Cotton - Coloured stripes. ditto 24 19 11 019 Trichinopoly, Madras. 44S Ditto Silk gauze With gold flowers and borders 22 1 7 - 13 Hyderabad. Bought in Madras. 410 'or petticoats Cotton and silk gauze . 7 23 13 014 Trichinopoly, Madras. 447 Ditto Cotton and silk - 11 15 23 14i 10 Tanjore, Madras. 448 Soosee" for trouserings - Ditto . 7 33 14 080 Trichinopoly, Madras 449 Soosee " for trouserings Ditto . S 1 15 080 Syempettah, Madras. and petticoats. 450 Ditto Cotton - 6 26 10 030 Ditto. 451 Ditto Cotton and silk . 7 33 12 080 Trichinopoly, Madras. 452 Soosee," used for trouser- Silk and cotton . 11 27 1 9 080 Ditto. ings. 453 'Soosee," for iron Cotton . 6 29 15 2 4i Coonatoor, Madras. and petticoats. 454 . Ditto Check. English pattern 8 32 2 5 053 Masulipatam, Madras. 455 456 Twill for trousering Ditto Ditto Twill 5 11 25 22 1 10 1 10 4 li 026 Cuddalore, Madras. Ditto. Ditto Per dozen, 457 'ocket handkerchief Ditto Plain, deep borders 20 20 046 Nellore, Madras. Per dozen, 458 Ditto Ditto - Ditto 20 20 - 080 Ditto. 459 'Chunderkana," muslin for handkerchiefs. Ditto - -{ Without borders ~> Second sort of good quality - -5 S 1 2 15 18 Arnee, Madras. 460 Muslin ... Ditto Plain; similar to Dacca muslin in its 12 1 3 111 12 Hyderabad, Deccan. softness of texture. Bought in Madras. ( let size. 1st size, -J Largest size, 461 Serchiefs - - Ditto Coloured. Coarse 23 J.I size, 23 2d size, "( 016 Cundapoor, S. Canara. ( 27 27 - ~J Weight of eight, Trice of eight 462 Ditto Ditto Coloured borders - 29 29 1 1 046 Masulipatam, Madras. 463 Long cloth Ditto Fine quality. Made to order 33 1 4 14 900 Eajahmundry, Madras. 464 Long cloth. Watered " Is- Ditto Calico of good quality 11 24 1 2 4 160 Nellore, Madras. rec." 465 Watered "Isree" Ditto Plain. Coarse 6 18 31 1 12 040 Tizagapatam, Madras. 466 ' Punjum " cloth Ditto Calico. Coarse quality. " 22s." 10 9 1 4 2 5 070 Nellore, Madras. 467 Ditto Ditto Ditto. ditto " 20*." 18 18 1 2 4 14 18 Vizagapatam, Madras. 468 Canvas Ditto Bleached 12 30 5 070 Nellore, Madras. 469 " Soojney," used for sheeting Ditto Figured dimity, unbleached 3 1 17 1 14 063 Madras. 470 " Punjum " cloth Ditto Coarse. Unbleached (Incomplete piece) 35 1 - 096 Vizajrapatam, Madras. 471 " Dungary " cloth - Ditto Unbleached - - ditto - 155 - - - - Salem, Madras. 472 Country canvas Ditto Ditto 19 23 10 11 096 Rajahmundry, Madras. 473 " Dungarv " cloth, used as Ditto - 16 23 6 10 060 Salem, Madras. sailcloth. 474 Ditto Ditto Coarse 11 23 2 6 020 Ditto. Of four, Of four, 475 " Palempores," or bed covers Ditto Chintz, glazed. Four woven in one 1 12 1 12 1 7 14 Masulipatam, Madras. piece. 476 Ditto Ditto Chintz, unglazed. Printed pine pattern 2 9 1 23 13 015 Paumodee, Madras. ends. Sewn together in centre. 477 Ditto Ditto Chintzes, unglazed. Printed cotton 2 1 8 013 Masulipatam, Madras. 478 Ditto Ditto Ditto. Printed border. 2 14 1 14 13 020 Ditto. Seam 14 inches from the edge. 47' " Soojney," used as a coun- Ditto . 2 9 1 4 2 046 Kurnool, Madras. terpane. 480 Ditto Ditto Coloured thread 2 9 1 4 2 046 Ditto. VOL. i:?. K1XCOBS, SATINS, AND SILKS. 105 No. Width. i Xameand I rial. Quali . d. i 181 ;:ide up into Silk With gold tlower, - r, (I u 211 11 2 ir, it Iras. 182 Ditto Satin With stripes and l!n\vcrs of gold and 5 9 S4 IS 1 11 481 Ditto , With gold (lowers - - t 27 24 II !1 ; n n Trie 1 1 iras. 4M Ditto. IVed for IK'tti- coots. Silk - Ditto .... r. ii ::7 11 2 10 Ditto. 483 Ditto With flowon of white silk 5 11 31 1 8 - . . Hyde; Dcccaii. Bought in Madras. IN TOO" silk surface, cotton kick. roidend in loom 5 9 1 10J 200 Ditto. 487 - Ditto 5 SOi 1 7 200 Ditto, 488 Ditto Ditto i gold and silk - 4 18 o as 1 12 2 2 Trichinopoly, Madras. 188 Ditto I'd in gold, with silk stripes 4 27 24 14 240 Ditto. i Ditto Ditto - G 28 1 5 . . . bad, Deccan. 491 Ditto - Dotted with gold. Striped silk - 4 18 24 14 240 Taujore, Madras. 492 - Ditto Flowered stripe in silk ... 4 24 29 11 11 6 Ditto. ; Ditto Ditto d stripes - 6 15 1 1 101 16 Ditto. 4M ... Ditto !vd stripes - 6 SO 1 1 2 1 16 Hyderabad, Deccan. Bought in Madras. 188 , Ditto . 6 9 33 1 7 10 Tanjore, Madras. 496 Ditto Ditto Coloured stripes and flowers 5 1 1 10 17 Trichinopoly, Madras. 497 Ditto Ditto - R 31 1 4t 170 Hyderabad, Deccan. 498 Ditto Ditto Parti-coloured and figured stripes 5 1 1 5 17 Trichinopoly, Madras. 489 Ditto Ditto Flowered stripes - - 5 32 SOi 1 4 1 18 Hyderabad, Deccan. 500 Ditto Ditto Main. Pink 5 31 31 1 2 1 18 Ditto. 501 502 Ditto - - - . Ditto Ditto "ii. with zigzag cross stripes of a lighter shade. Plain purple - - C 3 20 32 34 1 3* 13 1 10 11 Ditto. Bought in Madras. Trichinopoly, Madras. 5<>3 Ditto Ditto M, white zigzag stripes across; same pattern as No. 501. 6 9 33 1 9 17 Ditto. 504 Ditto Ditto Red, with yellow dotted cross stripe 5 SI 26 1 2 1 18 Hyderabad, Deccan. 505 Ditto Ditto Zigzag cross stripes, intersected by \ negated stripes lengthwise. 6 14 34} 1 Itt 100 Tanjore, Madras. SOB Ditto Ditto Zigzag stripes in white, with red tinted edges, on a puce ground. 4 27 35 1 17 Trichinopoly, Madras. 507 Ditto Ditto Plain green - 6 37 30i i M 1 16 Hyderabad, Deccan. 808 Ditto Ditto Crimson, with narrow white stripes one inch apart. 5 1 1 5 17 Trichinopoly, Madras. 509 Ditto Ditto Orange, with white stripes 6 15 1 2 7 IS Tanjore, Madras. 510 Ditto Ditto Plain crimson .... 6 32 1 4 116 Hyderabad, Deccan. 511 Ditto Ditto Bright yellow and coloured stripes and spots. 5 27 27 1 6 1 16 Ditto. 512 Ditto Ditto Pink flowered stripes - 5 33 30 1 1 1 15 Ditto. Bought in Madras. 513 Ditto Ditto Broad coloured stripes on dark amber ground. 6 U 1 1 14 Trichinopoly, Madras. 514 Ditto Ditto Plain red 4 22 31 lOt 1 18 Hyderabad, Deccan. Bought in Madras. 515 Ditto Ditto Plain white ... 4 13 32i 15 190 Hyderabad, Deccan. 516 Used for trowserings Silk Figured stripes. Thin and light material 9 4 37 14 1 10 I'riehinopoly, Madras. 517 Ditto Ditto Plain and flowered (coloured) stripes - 8 27 35 1 2 220 Ditto. S18 Used for bodices, petticoats, and trowsorings. Ditto Gauze-like fabric. Green and yellow dotted cross stripes. 11 33 141 200 Ditto. 519 Used for trowsering and under garments. Ditto Gauze-like fabric, coloured stripes 9 34 12 17 Ditto. 520 Used for trowserings Ditto Gauze-like fabric. Amber and faint white stri i>c. 9 6 34 111 >i 1:1 n Tanjore, Madras. A A 2 166 VOL. 14. SILK PIECE GOODS. No. DESCRIPTION. Length. Width. Weight. Price. Whence procured, Place of Manufactui Name and Use. Material. Quality, &e. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. ozs. s. d. 521 Piece goods Silk - - - Plain, red .... 17 15 21J 2 9} 300 Lahore. 522 Djtto Ditto - Plain, purple shot with red 13 9 211 1 81 1 16 Ditto. 523 Ditto Ditto Plain, light green ... 15 31 201 2 1 300 Ditto. 521 Ditto Ditto Plain, red (shot) .... 24 201 2 8} 390 Ditto. 525 Ditto Ditto Crimson, with small green stripes 17 S3 21i 2 7 300 Ditto. 526 Ditto Ditto - Yellow, with red stripes - - - 15 22 2 3 460 Ditto. 527 Ditto Ditto Crimson, with white stripes 13 211 2 8 360 Ditto. 528 Ditto Ditto - Green, with red stripes - - 16 15 21 2 2i 300 Ditto. 529 Ditto Ditto - Crimson, with yellow stripes 15 26 21i 2 5 2 16 Ditto. 530 Ditto Ditto Puce, witli red stripes (shot) 16 IS 21 1 13} 260 Ditto. 531 Ditto Ditto - Purple, with yellow stripes (shot) 8 19 10i 126 Dera Ishmael Khan. 532 " Golabee Durreeaee " Ditto Red 6 11 13 4 10 6 Agra, N.W. Provinces. 533 "Sungee Charkhanah" Ditto - Coloured cheek .... 4 33 27 7} 1 10 Benares. 534 . Ditto Flowered and striped ... 5 32 281 151 . . . Bhawulpore. 535 For dresses - - Ditto Purple check .... 15 1 1 101 . . . Bhagulpore, Bengal. 536 Ditto Ditto Ditto, good quality 15 1 1 10 . Berhampore. 537 . Ditto Coloured stripes .... 6 18 31} 111 . . . Bhawulpore. 538 "Elaiche" - - - Ditto - Red, with small white stripes 19 11 19 1 5 1 14 Agra, N. W. Provinces. 539 " Durreeaee " Ditto Coloured stripes .... 14 14 11 CJ ' 10 6 Ditto. 540 "Yeolah" - Ditto - - - Plain pink, thin texture, extra wide 11 1 5 1 3 573 Ahmednugger, Bombay. 541 "Durreeaee" Ditto Yellow, very narrow 39 18 111 1 OJ 1 9 81 Agra, N. W. Provinces. 542 - Silk and Cotton Small check - 10 18 28 1 6} - Ditto. 543 For garments for men and women. Silk A peculiar fabric, woven with stripes at centre and ends. To be cut in two, and sewn together at sides to form a garment. 8 28 241 1 H. Pegu, Burmah. 544 Ditto Ditto For wear, cut in two and sewn together at sides. 8 28 25J 1 2} . . . Ditto. 545 Ditto Ditto - Ditto 8 30 25 1 4 . Ditto. 546 Ditto Ditto Ditto, with coloured stripes 8 26 27i 1 U . . . Ditto. 547 Ditto Ditto - White and green stripes 9 24 1 13i . . . Ditto. 548 "Laheuieenia" kerchiefs - Ditto - Black, with dull yellow figures and spots, red dotted border. 1 11 1 21 5} 060 Surat, Bombay. 549 " Lahe " kerchiefs Ditto Black, with red tinted spots, red border 1 10 29 1} 060 Ditto. 550 Handkerchief Ditto Red, white spots. Black border, spotted pattern. 311 30 2 030 Ditto. 551 Ditto "Printed Lahe" Ditto - - - Black, red figured pattern and spotted border. 32 31 2 053 Ditto. 552 Gauze ... Ditto - With gold flowers 8 1 61 19 Trichinopoly, Madras. 553 Ditto ... Ditto - Ditto 8 34 61 19 Ditto. 554 Ditto Ditto Ditto .... S 1 5} 10 Ditto. 555 Ditto, for Mosquito curtains. Ditto - 11 31 5} 1 12 Bhagulpore, Bengal. 55G " Tussur " - Ditto - - - Plain .... 10 18 1 1 1 15J 16 10t Warungul, Hyderabad, Deccan. 657 Ditto Ditto - Twilled, dyed - 11 2fl 1 71 13 Bhagulpore, Bengal. 558 Ditto ... Ditto Large check, dyed 9 18 251 1 4 13 Ditto. 559 Eria " Dookloe " Ditto Coarse .... 4 34 1 6 040 Cachar, Bengal. 580 Ditto, " Endi " used for garments by both sexes. Ditto - - 3 2 1 4 1 4 . . . Darjeeling. 167 VOL. i:>. KAV.UK'S FROM (T.NTRAL ASIA AND RUSSIA. No. DE8Ci;!fT Length. Width. Weight. Price. Whence procured, Manufacture Name and Use. Material. Quuli; yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. ozs. JE s. d. 861 "Uddrussa" ... Silk and cotton J stripes - 7 111 - 080-> Bokhara. 862 . . ^ilk - Veil-in Imnlers anil ends . . . .) 563 ' 1'ddruss.i " and " lilacha," nd silk (Full pattern shown in half piece) 7 9 12 - 11 Ditto, 561 Ditto Ditto (Cut cn>ss\\:iys to show full pattern) - 3 16 191 - 13 Ditto. 565 Vlukh" Ditto one third of full width). 3 6 20} . 10 Ditto. full pattern. about -\ BM " Goolbuddan " Silk - Striped 32 29 2 10 I Ditto. 867 For garments Ditto Bordcml pi - - - . 20 - - -J about about 56S . Silk and cotton t'ol. Hired stripes. Full pattern in 8 12} - II 12 li Ditto. 569 "Kootnee" - Cotton chintz iile. <;la/eil. ( 'oliuircil st I'ipes. Full p:it tern In pretly t-eneral Use. 3 18 21} 080") Ditto ? 570 . Cotton - (ila/.eil. Coloured stripes. Cut cross- - 11 . . .) 571 " Khoodbauf " Silk - - - ways. Same pattern in two colours (A. B.) 1 29 - 4 Made at Bokhara. Ob- tained in Sind. 572 Cotton chintz - L Striped. (Two samples) (A. B.) - 20 . . -s Bokhara. 573 "Xaukcr" Cotton Plain irr ... - 14 - . ./ 674 " Goolbuddan " Silk - Striped with border. Cut crossways to exhibit full pattern. 32 25 3 11 Ditto. 575 876 " Kuuawey " Ditto Ditto Ditto Plain primrose colour - -) ,..,,.], Plain cinnamon colour - -j 30 271 - 027} Ditto. m 878 Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Plain red shot with blue O ,, Plain green - - -j cacn 30 271 (1 2 71 Ditto. 579 980 Ditto Dim, Ditto Ditto Plain pink "- - -> , Plain green shot with red -5 SO 271 o 2 n Ditto. 581 DU Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Plain green shot with yellow -~) , Plain 111 ue shot with red -i l 30 271 - 2 71 Ditto. 5S1 "BoolboolChrshum" Ditto Figured red and yellow . 28 - . Meshed. 581 Ditto Ditto Ditto White - 21 . Ditto .-,S5 Ditto Ditto Ditto Green shot with red and green figure. - 16 ( about ") Josef- Ditto. 586 Ditto - - Ditto Ditto Pink, white figure . 21 - (. per yard J 537 . Ditto Crimson ground, blue figure . 16 - . Ditto. 58S ... Ditto Coloured and figured stripes . 20 . . Ditto. 5S9 . Ditto Yellow ground, red liguro . 18 . Ditto. 590 591 " Musjoor " - Ditto ... Ditto Ditto Yellow, figured - -> h Crimson, ditto - - -i - 18 . . . Ditto. 692 . Silk rauze Flowered stripes on yellow ground - 24 . . ., Ditto. 593 .... Ditto Ditto on white ground . 24 - . .) per yard 591 "Ubra" or "Shalwal," for Silk cloth Shawl pattern . 251 - 10 Herat. Chogas,&c. Shawl pattern. per yard 595 Ditto Ditto Ditto . 251 . . 10 Ditto. per yard 590 Ditto Ditto Ditto . 251 - 10 Ditto. per yard 597 Ditto Ditto Ditto - - - . 25} . 10 Ditto. per yard 59S Ditto Ditto Ditto . 25} 10 Ditto. 599 . Cotton and silk Plain red - - - 29 - . Ditto. 600 Ditto Ditto Plain black ... - 171 . -J 601 "Naukrr" - - Cotton Plain brown - - - - 17 - . . .. Ditto. 602 " Atlas " (Satin) Silk face, cotton back Plain yellow ... 28 . .J 603 "Goolbuddun" Silk - Narrow stripes on a deep red ground - . 18 - . Yezd. 601 .... Ditto Brocade. Crimson flower on yellow _ 29 . ( about ") JO 4 t llalk. ground. (.'per yard J 605 . - . Ditto Ditto - . . 29} . ( about ") ^0 1 \ Ditto. v, per yard ) 606 607 "Boodul" Ditto Ditto Ditto Shaded figure, yellow \ Each piece ") IMtto crimson $ varies from .) - (-09) 5 to I 17J - ( about ^ SO 2 f (. per yard ) Ditto. ( about *) 60S Ditto Ditto Shaded figure. Deep blue. (Flimsy) - - 17 - JO 2 L Ditto. C per yard ( 609 Ditto Ditto Ditto. Light blue. (Harsh surface) - 19 . . .) 610 .... Ditto Figured. Peculiar design. Pattern 6 25 . 13 Ditto. complete in sample. 611 .... Gauze, silk, and a little cotton. White. Striped in material -") ? cach . 28 m _ . . Koknn. 612 . Gauze -, silk only Crimson, ditto - -) 613 "Dasija" Silk gauze White silk stripe on yellow") ground - - > cach 30 26 per picor 011} Ditto. 611 Ditto Ditto Ditto on crimson ground.) 615 " Saujoo gool goshen " Silk Deep blue, shaded figure - - 30 - . Bokhara. 616 ... Satin Yellow figure on purple, crimson, and 31 20 . 070 Obtained in Bokhara. green stripes. .Manufactured in Russia. 617 .... Ditto Yellow liu-mr on light blue, red, and 31 20 . 7 Ditto. 619 green stripes. Oil ft 7 ft "\ stripes. ol 070| Ditto. 619 Ditto Ditto Ditto on crimson and green stripes 31 20 - o 7 o ; 620 Ditto Ditto Ditto on variegated stripes 31 20 - 7 > Ditto. 621 Ditto Ditto Ditto - - - 31 20 . 010) 022 2:i "Naukir" - " - '- Woollen Cotton - Striped and flowered in printed colours Blue striped - 33 13 Obtained in Bokhara. Manufactured at Ooroos in Russia. 168 VOL. 1C. WOOLLENS. No. DESCRIPTION. Length. Width. Weight. Price. AVhonce procun'il, Place of Manufacture, &c. Name and Use. Material. Quality, &c. 624 " Kooroon " or Sulung " cloth. Woollen Fine quality yds. ins. 20 yds. ins. 16J Ibs. ozs. 3 2 S, . d. Tcr yard. 023* Sulung, between Lassa and China. C25 Ditto Ditto - Ditto 20 16i 3 2 023* Ditto. 620 Ditto Ditto - Ditto 20 17 :i 2 023* Ditto. 627 Ditto Ditto - Ditto 20- 101 2 3 023* Ditto. C2S " Cummerbund " or "Ezar- bund " (waistband). Ditto Deep ends generally - 6 12 30 1 11 . - - Hyderabad, Siud. 629 Ditto Ditto - Narrow and coarse 5 10 1 1\ . . . Beloochistan. 630 Ditto Ditto - Coarse, but strong in texture 6 33 12 1 7 . . . Nepal. 631 "Cumblee" or blanket Ditto - Sewn together in centre to form one 7 18 1 22 7 18 6 Made at nharwar. Sent from Madras. 632 "Cummerbund" (waistband) Ditto - . 5 18 91 1 - - - Thibet. 633 Blanket, worn as a scarf by men. Ditto - Fair quality. Indifferent colour - 3 3 12 2 9 - - - Darjeeling. 634 For men*s trouserings Ditto - . - - - 2 6t Kangra, Punjab. 633 For clothing Ditto - Coarse cloth 5 18 15 2 2 . . . Ditto. 636 " Kulloo " (blanket) - Ditto - 3 13 23 4 - - - MadeatKooloo. Obtained from Kangra, Punjab. 637 " Cumbleo " (blanket) Ditto Bordered. Two sown together in centre to form one. 3 1 14 2 4 030 Bangalore. Sent from Madras. 638 " Kumblee " (blanket) Ditto - Strong. Coarse material 7 2 3 7 15 11 3 Sattara, Mahratta country 639 Used principally for making shawls for the " lamas." Ditto . 11 9 2 . . . Made at Thibet. From Darjeeling. 040 " Cumblee " or blanket Ditto - . 5 5 1 29 5 9 18 Delhi. 641 Ditto Ditto - - - Coarse, but strong. Ends fringed 3 U 1 13 2 15 060 Made at Beejapoor. Ob- tained from Sattara. 642 Ditto S . Ditto - Coarse ---.- 3 19 1 16 3 4 053 Ditto. 643 Ditto Ditto - - - Black. Fringed ends - 7 22 2 8 8 - - - Beckaneer. * The value here named is the price in Cashmere. 1 2s. W. is the price for material sufficient for one pair of trowsers. VOL. 1 7. 169 N DESCRIPTION. Width. Price. Whence procured, Place of Manufacture, 4c. Name and Use. Material. Qualii yds. ins. 1. d. 6 " Cumblco " or blank Woollen - Coloured border, 00 S 1 14 2 5 il .". 71 M:I.!I ,-it Banenlore. Ob- in Madras. 43 , Ditto il<. White thread 3 6 1 8 3 4 10 M.ulr in Bcllary. From run Mmlnis. 610 T \olformakin loaks Ditto C 1 i From Sikiui Obtained 617 Ditto Ditto - 1 >n in, vi TV strong 1'J 9i 6 14 . . . Thibet. ftlS " Foorook " and " Puttoo " Ditto - Superior quality 11 15 9 11 12 Prom Lassa, Thibet. Ob- tained in Kangra. C.l'.l "Puttoo" Ditto - . 6 29 12 3 7 18 Ditto. G50 i- making coats and Ditto - Very coarse* .... . . . . . Kohat. cloaks. IV.l Ditto - Coarse material .... 7 18 12 .'i S - Thibet. About 652 " Loongee " or scarf, used for lKxly clothing during cold Ditto - Silk borders and ends. Sewn together in centre to form one. 5 12 25 S 14 040 Hyderabad, Sind. weather, also for bed covers and saddle cloths. 633 For blankets Ditto - . 7 9 14 5 10 . . . Thibet. 654 " Cumblce " or blanket Ditto - Coarse quality. Fringed ends - 2 27 1 2 2 10 010 From Bangalore. Obtained in Madras. 655 Ditto Ditto - Mixed with camel hair. Fringed ends. 2 20 1 18 D 016 Ditto. Coarse. Sewn together in centre when complete. 656 Ditto Ditto - Coarse. Sewn together to form any 2 9 15 2 . Kathmandoo, Nepal. iti'Mredwidth.t 657 Used for rugs, 4c. Wool and Horsehair - Coarse 18 14 10 10 IS . . . Kangra, Punjab. 658 For blankets Woollen _ 2 IS 1 26 5 - - Odypore, Eajpootana Stati-s. 659 Horsecloth - Ditto English pattern. Large dark check - 4 2 21 15 15 100 Delhi. an Felt material nsed for leg- Ditto . . _ SI 18 9 010 Ladak. gings, &c. 661 Felted blanket or cloak to cover the head and body. Ditto - 1 21 2 21 3 13 . . . Jeypore, Rajpootana States, 662 Felt blanket- - Ditto Bough 3 1 20 4 8 . . . Ditto. 663 For blankets Ditto Coarse ..... 3 16 2 9 9 14 - Ditto. * Used by peasants of Kohat. t Made and used by the Hill Tribes. 170 VOL. 18. WOOLLENS, CASHMERE SHAWL CLOTHS, &c. Xo. DESCRIPTION. Length. Width. Weight. Price. \Vlii'iicf jirocuri'd, Place of Manufacture, ic. Name and Use. Material. Quality, &c. yds. ins. yds. ins. Ibs. ozs. *. d. 604 665 668 "Jamewar/'caabmere sha\vl; worn by both sexes, Cashmere wool - Ditto Ditto ;.;i;nd pattern. Figured. Fine quality Vim- pattern throughout Pine pattern ... 3 14 3 9 3 1 19 1 15 1 6 2 8 2 2 2 7 700 Kangra, Punjab. Cashmere. Ditto. Shawl cloth 607 Ditto, worn by both sexes Ditto Plain crimson. Very fine. Good colour 7 1 10 2 4 300 Loodiana, Punjab. 60S Shawl cloth, chiefly used for chogas. Ditto Plain black. First quality 4 10 19 12 . . . Cashmere. 669 Shawl cloth ... Ditto Plain white. Very fine - - - 7 1 19 2 12 400 Loodiaua, Punjab. 670 Ditto, worn by both sexes Ditto Plain. First quality 5 28 1 11 2 15 Cashmere. 671 Ditto Ditto - - - Plain black. Second quality 5 26 1 - - - Ditto. 672 Ditto .... Ditto Plain grey. Second quality 5 8 26 14J 300 Ditto. 673 Ditto Ditto - - Plain green. Fine texture ... 6 20 1 6 15 3 10 Ditto. 674 Ditto Ditto - Plain purple. Fine texture 5 26 14 . i . Ditto. 675 676 G77 Ditto " Dooputtah " or scarf (in- complete). " Loongee " or scarf - Ditto - Ditto - Ditto Plain crimson. Second quality. Fine colour. Deep buff. Silver and silk fiirured border sewn on. Broad figured stripe in gold thread across end of si'art'. Small red and yellow check. Figured narrow border sewn on. 5 10 25 15 . . . Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. 5 9 1 34 2 540 678 Shawl cloth Woollen - Plain red. Coarse - 6 21 27 1 7 . . . Lahore, Punjab. 679 Cloth for chogas ... Ditto Plain purple - - - 200* Cabool. 630 681 "Kid cloth" "puttoo," a wrapper. Kid cloth " puttoo " or wrapper. Ditto - Ditto Plain white. Fine quality. Woven in half width of 31} inches. Two pieces sewn together in centre forms one complete. Plain brown. Fine quality. 4 29 3 2-1 1 27 1 10 4 1 2 9 340 133 Lahore. Ditto. 682 Ditto Ditto Ditto 9 22 27 3 15 . . . Thibet. 683 Kid cloth "toosce"or"tose" cloth. Ditto - Plain grey 12 27 13 2 15 300 Baltistan, obtained at Kangra. 6S4 685 Used as a wrapper " Biirruch " cloth forchosas, &c. Ditto Camel's hair Ditto, sewn together in centre forms a garment. 2 18 1 20 1 12 . Lahore. Hyderabad, Sind. 680 Ditto Ditto ... Plain brown - 8 13 13 1 14 090 Meshed. 687 688 " Dhoosa " or wrapper - Ditto Woollen - Ditto - Greyish white, with green, crimson, and yellow striped silk border. With striped silk borders. Woven in two lengths with a fag between. 3 6 Single 3 4 1 9 length 1 17 1 2 l I2i 1 14 1 14 Lahore. Ditto. 089 Ditto Ditto With red silk bnrdor. Woven in two lengths with a fag between. 3 14 1 9 1 li 160 Ditto. 600 Ditto Ditto With red, white, and green silk borders 2 30 1 6 144 160 Ditto. C91 Ditto Ditto With green, red, and yellow silk borders 3 5 1 12 1 5J 1 15 Ditto. C92 Used as a wrapper Ditto Inferior quality. Two sewn together form one. 4 18 2 12 3 75 160 Ditto. 693 "Loee " or wrapper Ditto - Good quality. White - 6 28 1 23 4 - - - Beckaneer, N.W. India. 695 Carpet Ditto Deep pile . - - - - - - - . . . Ellore, Madras. 696 Ditto Ditto Short pile 2 16 1 18 - . . . Wurrungul, Deccan. C97 Ditto Ditto Short, close pile ... - - . . . Bokhara. 098 Suttringee or Rug - Cotton - Short pile 3 12 1 24 - . - - Wurrungul, Deccan. 699 Ditto Ditto Coloured stripes - 2 30 1 24 - - - Agra, N. W. Provinces. 700 Carpet Silk - Short pile 2 20 1 18 - - Wurrungul, Deccan. This is the price of a cloak made from this material. Worn by the higher classes of Northern India. 171 !'I.A( KS OK MANTFArrrKK Oil MARTS FROM WHICH Till: Sl'KCI.MKNS WKKK OBTAIXKI). XAMK OF i X.l v Disi l.\ 1 1- ll in;. / O 1 o / o / kgn Agra X.W. Prou 27 HI Kathamandoo Xepaul 27 12 s.-, 1 S r,-r , r .ay 19 6 71 Hi Kohat. - - .13 32 71 27 t Xorlh \rcot Madras - Kolian Arnce Arracan Ditto Arracan - -j . r Lieut. ( l,en-< ( BrlwMn Is and 21 33 7:i 2! '.12 ID and Kooloo or Kuhi - Kurnool Kurnool Madras :Ti "'! 15 50 . and 7s r, ( 90 40 l. :l ,lak - Ladak Thilxjt Ass-.v.n i Ditto % to 2s 17 to 97 1 I 35 . Turkestan :lti 4S 67 3 Lahore Lahore Punjab 31 36 71 21 l.assa ... Thibet '.'1 l! Baltistan - ... Thibet - -( to 75 to I.eiah I.eiah Punjab 30 57 71 4 (. 36 77 II Loodiana - - :> 55 75 51 Bangalore Mysore Xative state 12 .-s 77 :;s Madras . Madras 13 5 Ml 21 - - Hillo 2S II 7.'! 22 .ira Madura Ditto 9 65 .78 10 i -ipoor - :ay 16 50 75 48 Mangalorc South Canara Ditto 74 54 Beltraum Belgaum - Ditto - 15 50 74 36 Mpalam Masulipatam Ditto 16 10 81 13 liellary Bellary Madras 15 8 76 59 Meshed ... Persia 36 17 Bcloochistan .( 24 50 to to Moorshedabad - Rajshahye - Bengal 21 12 88 17 (. 30 20 63 50 Mylapore Chinglepnt - Madras 13 1 80 20 Benares 1V9 . X.W. Provinces 25 17 83 4 XagaiiR - Ditto. Bcrhnmporc Berhamporc Ganjam i ad ,'IS Bengal t'.l 211 24 5 84 50 88 17 ' Xac-pore ("Dist. j 17 50 to 23 5 78 S to 83 10 Bhagulporc Ipore 87 (.Town 21 ]o 79 10 Rhawulpore . Xative State 71 47 Xellore Nellorc - Madras H 27 80 1 llhurtpore Bhurtpore - Ditto - 27 12 77 33 I 2,; 2.-, .80 15 ul Xorth Canara Bombay Turkc 12 23 75 5 r, i '.', Xepal . l e^ to 30 17 to 88 15 i, ^ Sind ... 26 68 16 Bombay Broach Bombay Breach - Ditto Is :,7 21 42 72 52 7 2 Oodeypore Eajpootana States 24 37 73 49 da 1 Goodaspore Punjab -listau :;i in 75 14 li'.i r, addy - 1'alamcottah (SefWoopparoddy) Tinnevclly - Madras. Ditto 8 43 77 Is ( ;i2 51 I'atna I'atna 'll 25 35 85 15 .r r '.'.; 2s . Pegu - BcnKaLGov.Gon. f A dm ii list. O 15 49 to 19 30 94 11 to ill 55 iltS N'uddea Ditto - 22 :: ^ . k S '2.. > / 32 17 1'ind Dadun Kha:\ Sind Sagur Doab Punjab 32 36 7.". 5 Cashmere , 're - X'ativc Stale --] to "'to' 1'omody or Pau- ... KidiM, I :;,; u 71) -111 nioilee. Chieacole (Jan-rain Madras is is 83 53 Pondicherry S. Arcot Madras, a Frencli 11 56 79 51 set 1 lemout. Chin: Chingleput >r - Native State 12 41 21 41 80 2 78 12 Poonary . Madras 13 20 80 13 - Coimbatore - Madras 11 77 1 Pulicat :r],ul '- . Ditto 13 25 laconum Tanjore Ditto 10 58 Radn:i C.inu-everam Chinirl'.pnt Ditto . 12 :,0 79 40 Kajahmundry Eajahiuundry ^la Iras 17 81 50 Coonathoor Chingleput Ditto 12 59 80 10 -pore - Sind - 27 18 Cudilalore A reot Ditto 11 43 7'.i .-ii Rawul Pindec Rawnl Pindce Punjab 33 37 73 G (nddapah ( iiddapah - Ditto 14 2S 7S 52 Runeeporeira (Ste Kanoeporc) - Sind. i looora, "} Cundapoor, or r South Canara Ditto - 1.1 .18 74 45 Ilutul Mudporo - Salem i Punjab. Madras 11 39 7s 12 Condapore ) '-' 17 68 ^S Sa'itipore Xuddea d 23 14 88 26 Catch Cuteh Xativc State -' to to Sattara Sattara Bombay 17 45 74 4 1 21 40 71 45 ( 24 30 83 20 Dacca - Beniral 90 25 Shahabad Patna Bengal - -\ to to Darjeeling Delhi Darjeeling Delhi Ditto - X.W. Provinces - 27 2 23 39 88 19 77 18 Shikarporc - - Shikarporc - t, Sind 25 46 23 6S 39 DcyralshmailKhan Drrajat Punjab 70 53 Sikkim - Xative State -\ 27 5 to 8S 2 to Dlianvar Dharwar IV 15 28 75 4 1 23 3 89 Futtyirurh Fnrruekabad X.\V. Provinces - 27 22 79 41 r 23 37 66 4.1 Gangam Gangam Madras I'.l 2.1 85 7 Sind "( to 2s ;;2 to 71 :; Goa . Former capital of 15 30 74 Sulung Thibet. _ _ Portuguese p"s- st -sions. Surat Surat Bombay 21 10 72 52 Goodaspore . Punjab. _ Sydapct Chingleput .Madras. f 21 8 74 45 Syempettah . Ditto. Gwalior ... Xative State - j to 26 50 to 79 21 Sylhet Dacca Bengal 24 54 91 50 Gya . Bengal 24 48 85 4 Tanjore Tanjore Madras 10 47 79 12 33 50 72 30 Teroomaly . Ditto. Hazara - to 35 to 7,1 Thibet - . . J 28 to 7'J u to Herat _ Afghanistan 34 26 62 8 c 36 IM n Hoshiarpore Hyderabad Trans Sutlej States Sind Punjab Bombay 31 33 2'. 22 75 57 OS 2s Trichinopoly Vencatagorry Trichinopoly X. Arcot Madras - Ditto 10 50 13 78 46 78 32 Hyderabad Deccan The Xizam's terri- 17 22 78 32 Ventapollam Guntoor Ditto 15 47 80 22 tory. Tizagapatam Vizagapatam Ditto 17 41 83 21 Jcypoor Jeypoor Xative State 26 56 75 55 Warungul - Hyderabad - The Deecan, Xi- 17 58 79 -JO Jhelum - ... Punjab 32 56 73 47 zam's Territories. Kangra Trans Sutlej States Ditto - 32 5 76 18 "Woopparaddy . Madras - 17 5 82 23 Karikal - Tanjore Madras. A French 10 55 79 53 Woozzoor or Oosoor Salem Ditto 12 46 77 51 settlement. Vc/d . ... 31 45 .-,1 50 (3428.) B B 172 TABLE SHOWING WHERE THE SAMPLES IN THE FABRIC BOOKS ARE REFERRED TO IN THIS WORK. No. of Sample in Vol. I. de page No. of Sample In Vol. II. Vide Teit, page No. of Sample in Vol. III. ' Vide Text, page No. of Sample in Vol. IV. \ Mli- Test, page No. of Sample iu Vol. V. Vide Text, page No. of Sample in Vol. VI. Vide Text, patro No. of Sample' in Vol. VII. Vide Tart, No. of Sample in Vol. VIII. Vide Text, page No. of Sample in Vol. IX. Vide Text, page 1 15 41 26 81 34 121 30 161 52 201 111 241 75,76 281 77 321 76 2 16 42 26 82 34 122 30 162 49 202 111 242 76 282 78 322 74,76 S 15 43 20 83 35 123 37 163 49 203 111 243 76 283 42 323 77 4 15 44 24,25 84 3-1 124 37 161 51 20 1 111 244 76 284 42,74 324 77 5 16 45 24,25 85 34 125 30 165 45 205 52 241 76 285 42 325 74,78 6 16 40 23,24 86 33 126 29,30 166 45 206 50 246 70 286 76 326 78 7 15 47 23,24 87 34 127 29,30 167 45,74 207 60 247 77 287 41 327 78 8 16 49 24,25 88 35 128 37 168 47,74 208 48 248 77 288 41 328 74,78 9 15 48 25 89 34 129 27,28 109 45 209 50 249 77 289 37 329 74,78 10 16 50 23, 24, 74 90 34 130 31 170 45,74 210 50 250 78 290 37 330 74,80 11 16 51 25 91 34 131 101 171 46,74 211 49 251 78 291 37 331 74,80 12 16 52 23,24,74 92 33 132 86 173 49 212 52 232 115 292 115 332 SO 13 16 53 25 93 33 133 86 173 42 213 46 253 79 293 115 333 80 14 15 54 23,24 94 33 134 101 171 50 214 49 UU 79 291 106,107 334 80 15 10 55 25 95 32 135 86 175 52 215 46 255 115 295 115 335 80 16 16 56 32 96 32 136 86 176 45 216 47 256 115 296 115 336 80 17 16 57 33 97 31 137 86 177 45 217 46 257 115 297 84 337 80 18 16 58 31 98 32 138 86 178 45 218 34 258 115 298 84 333 80 19 19 59 ^9,74 99 31 139 86 179 46 219 49 259 79 299 84 339 80 20 17 60 29 100 29 140 86 180 tt 220 44 260 115 300 81 340 80 21 19 61 33 101 32 141 101 181 43 221 41 201 113 301 84 341 80 22 19 62 29,74 102 30 142 84 182 41 222 43 262 113 302 84 342 80 23 18 63 28 103 31 143 86 183 46 223 43 263 113 303 84 343 80 24 18 61 29 104 32 144 86 184 U 221 43 26 1 113 304 84 344 81 25 18 65 28 105 29 145 M 185 14 225 43 265 113 305 84 345 74,81 26 18 66 28 106 37 146 86 186 44,74 226 43 260 113 306 84 346 81 27 18 67 28 107 37 147 86 187 44,74 227 41 267 113 307 85 347 74,81 28 18 68 28 108 31 148 86 188 41 228 41 268 113 308 80 SIS 81 29 18 69 28 109 23,24 149 86 189 42 229 43 269 113 309 80 349 81 30 17 70 74,86 110 23,24 150 86 190 41 230 87 270 116 310 91 350 81 31 17 71 28 111 28,29 151 90,94 191 41 231 87 271 81 311 91 351 105 32 17 72 28 112 30 152 90,91 192 44 232 87 272 81 312 91 352 101 S3 18 73 28 113 29 153 90,94 193 41 233 88 273 81 313 88 353 101 34 17 74 74,86 114 30 154 90,94 191 41,74 234 115 274 116 314 88 354 104 35 20 75 23, 24, 74 1 115 30 155 90,94 195 41 235 115 275 112 315 92 355 101 36 19 76 23,24 ; 116 30 150 90,94 196 43 236 87 276 116 316 88 356 101 37 19 77 23,24 117 27,28 157 90,94 197 43,74 237 87 277 116 317 88 357 86 38 20 78 23,24,74 j 118 30 158 96 198 43,74 238 87 278 116 318 88 358 101 39 20 79 23 119 29,30 159 9G 199 43 239 87 279 116 319 92 359 83 40 20 80 23,74 120 30 160 94 j 200 48 240 87 280 116 320 90,93 360 83 173 TABLE SHOWING Tin: SAMPLES IN THE FABRIC BOOKS AKI: KI:I-I;I;I;I;I> TO IN THIS WORK. continued. Sample \ ill,' Text, page No. of XII. Text, No. of in Vol. XIII. page in Vol. XIV. Vide Text, No. of in Vol. XV. No. of in Vol. XVI. Vide Text, page JNo.of Sample in V..1. XVII. Milr Text, me No.of Sample in \,il. XVIII. \id,- Text, I ML-,' .;.-,i n 401 Ill 111 IM 111 521 104 Ml 624 136 6M H 664 134 :<:i 402 112 111 162 112 522 H8 136 6tf 139 665 134 53 403 ss 413 111 186 112 523 101 en 136 646 139, 140 666 134 565 364 n 80 til 101 484 112 524 101 DM 627 13(! 647 139,140 667 134 365 53 .105 88 116 1S5 105 104 567 568 en 35 618 135 668 134 H6 n 406 89 in; 101 186 102 101 569 en 38 649 135 669 134 867 17 407 Si) 117 101 167 102 527 101 m 671 146 en 88 650 139 670 134 408 S',1 101 488 112 528 104 r.72 631 136 651 139 071 134 HI 868 '.H 409 n I 1:1 101 168 112 52!l 105 571 632 38 36 672 134 370 n 410 89 IM 86 490 112 530 105 575 076 en 38 653 189 673 134 371 17 411 n 451 101 I'H 112 531 105 677 634 139 654 139 674 134 .12 U'J 88 2 101 192 102 532 104 578 579 635 38 656 139 675 134 873' n 413 88 453 n IM 102 533 105 580 636 35 656 139,140 676 36 374 U 89 154 V.I 491 102 534 105 581 582 637 35 657 139 677 35 375 n as 89 n 495 102 535 105 583 638 139 658 139 678 134 376 416 89 456 86 M 102 536 105 584 58S 639 139 en 139 679 186 m 417 457 95 197 102 537 105 586 587 640 139 660 140, 141 680 185 91 US M 458 95 498 102 538 11)5 588 641 139 v 661 140, 141 681 135 in 419 95 459 76 103 539 105 589 590 642 35 i;*;2 140, 141 682 185 880 m 88 460 76 500 102 540 101 591 643 139 663 139 683 135 592 381 91 121 '.15 461 53 501 103 511 104 593 684 135 832 91 122 H 462 .-,:; 502 103 542 101 594 595 en 135 383 .H 423 H 463 74, 84 503 103 543 51 596 ' 147 686 135 597 087 384 n IM H 464 74, 84 504 103 544 51 598 w* 385 n 95 465 84 505 103 545 51 599 688 n 386 !':; 426 95 466 84 506 103 105 600 601 689 36 :;v7 127 95 467 84 5H7 102 547 51 602 603 690 36 388 '.11 428 95 468 74, 84 508 103 548 106 604 691 36 389 429 95 169 84 509 103 549 97,106 605 606 692 135 390 n 430 93 470 84 510 102 m 106 607 693 136 391 92 431 96 171 74, 85 511 103 551 106 608 609 694 Cancelled. 610 695 142, 144 471 392 n W2 96 A 35 512 103 552 116 611 6M 142, 144 393 433 96 472 85 513 103 553 116 612 613 397 142, 144 394 n 4S4 112 473 74, 85 514 102 554 116 614 698 142, 148 395 93 435 142 474 85 515 102 555 98 615 616 699 142 396 93 M 142 475 94 516 104 556 107 617 148 700 112, in M n 437 142 476 94 517 104 557 107 618 619 398 92 438 142 477 91 518 104 558 107 620 399 '.12 439 142 478 94 519 104 559 107 621 en 400 92 410 142,143 479 IMOJO 520 104 560 107 623 * 480 29,30,96 THE END. 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