UC-NRLP $B EST 137 ■iiiiiiiiiiiiii^ Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2007 with funding from IVIicrosoft Corporation http://www.archive.org/details/farmmechanicsmacOOshearich Farm Mechanics MACHINERY AND ITS USE TO SAVE HAND LABOR ON THE FARM Including Tools, Shop Work, Driving and Driven Machines, Farm Waterworks, Care and Repair of Farm Implements By HERBERT A. SHEARER AGRICULTURIST Author of "Farm Buildings with Plans and Descriptions" ILLUSTRATED WITH THREE HUNDRED ORIGINAL DRAWINGS CHICAGO FREDERICK J. DRAKE & CO. Publishers s^ Copyright 1918 By Frederick J. Drake & Co. Chicago ^ O rr w ^;m ® ^ go a^ > tH a 2' ^2o'S|9 .2ogStJ^ 1 m o" J o fl H ^+j -a 03 aj .a 'ji ^ «s o 'O a ,d ,0 (3 OJ OJ o tfi .^ t! O cujq g s3 ® H be a ;=3.2 >» ^A "^ <=> g ft *H -^^^ t. 2 rt Figure 31. — Bridge Auger. The long handle permits the workman to stand erect whil« boring. The home made handle is welded onto the shank of a ship auger. A wooden carpenter's level, Figure 23, two feet long, with a plumb glass near one end, is the most sat- isfactory farm level, an instrument that is needed a great many times during the year. THE FARM SHOP 27 Good brace bits are scarce on farms. They are not expensive, but farmers are careless about bits and braces. Two sizes of braces are needed, a small brace for small pod bits and twist drills, and a large ratchet brace with a 6-inch crank radius for turning larger bits. Figure 32. — Carpenter's Jointer. Figure 33.- -Fore-Plane. This style plane is preferred to a regular jointer for most farm work. Twist drill bits will bore both wood and iron, and they are not expensive up to three-eighths inch or one- half inch. But for larger sizes from one-half inch to one inch the finest lip wood boring bits will give the best satisfaction. Extension bits are used for boring holes larger than one inch. Two extension bits are bet- ter than one bit with two lip cutters. They will bore holes in soft wood in sizes from one inch to three inches. 28 FARM MECHANICS Other cutting tools such as jack plane jointer and smoothing plane, also an assortment of chisels, belong to the farm equipment. Figure 34. — Tool Box of Socket Chisels and Gouges. The chisels are sized from y^" to 2" in width. The two chisels to the right- show different patterns. All cutting tools should be of the best design and the best steel. If they are properly used and taken care of, the different jobs of repair work can be handled quickly and to great advantage. FARM GRINDSTONE A grindstone may be gritty without being coarse so it will bite the steel easily and cut it away quickly. A good stone is a very satisfactory farm implement, but a greasy stone is a perpetual nuisance. There are grindstones with frames too light. The competition to manufacture and sell a grindstone for THE FARM SHOP 29 farm use at the cheapest possible price has resulted in turning out thousands of grindstone frames that pos- sess very little stability. Grindstones should be kept under cover; the best stone will be injured by leaving it in the hot sun. The Figure 35. — Grindstone. The speed of a grindstone varies with the diameter of the stone. It should turn just fast enough to keep a flow of water on the upper face surface. If the stone turns too slow the water will run down ; if too fast, it will fly off. sun draws the moisture out of the upper side and leaves the lower side damp and soft so that in use the stoiie soon becomes flat sided. The wet side freezes in winter^ which is a disintegrating process. The best stones, with good care, will become uneven in time. The remedy is to true them with a quarter- 30 FARM MECHANICS inch soft iron round rod used like a lathe tool 'over an iron rest placed close to the stone on a level with the center of the stone. The rod is held against the stone in such a way as to cut away the high bumps and make the stone truly round. The stone cuts away best when it is dry. A small rod is better than a large rod. It digs into the stone better and takes out a deeper bite. Large power stones in machine shops are trued up in this way frequently. Farm stones often are neglected until they wabble so badly that it is difficult to grind any tool to an edge. If the grindstone is turned by a belt from an engine the work of truing may be done in a few minutes. If the stone is turned by hand the work of making it round takes longer and requires some muscle, but it pays. The face of a grindstone should be rounded slightly, and it should be kept so by grinding the tools first on one side of edge of the stone, then on the other, with the cutting edge of the tool crosswise to the face of the stone. For safety and to prevent a sloppy waste of water the stone should turn away from the operator. The best way to keep a stone moist is by a trickle of water from an overhead supply. Troughs of water suspended under the stone are unsatisfactory, because the water soon gets thick and unfit for use. Such troughs are forgotten when the job is done, so that one side of the stone hangs in the water. An overhead sup- ply of water leaks away and no damage is done. Grindstone frames are best made of wood 3'^x4'' thoroughly mortised together and well braced with wooden braces and tied across with plenty of iron rods. A good grindstone frame could be made of angle iron, but manufacturers generally fail in the attempt. THE FARM SHOP ' 31 There are good ball-bearing grindstone hangers on the market, both for hand crank stones and for belt use. The belt is less in the way if it is brought up from below. This is not difficult to do. A grindstone turns slower than any other farm machine so a speed reduc- ing jack may be bolted to the floor at the back of the grindstone a little to one side to escape the drip. This arrangement requires a shoi^t belt but it may have the full face width of the pulley as the tight and loose pul- leys are on the jack shaft. Emery Grinders. — There are small emery wheels made for grinding disks that work quickly and cut an Figure 36. — Emery Grinder. The illustrations show two kinds of grinding that double emery wheels are especially adapted to. To grind a mowing-machine knife it is necessary to reverse. By placing the rest opposite the center between the two wheels the bevel will be the same on both sides, or edges, of the section. even bevel all around. They are made in pairs and are attached to the ends of a mandrel supported by a metal stand which is bolted to a bench. The same rig is used for sickle grinding and other farm jobs. BLACKSMITH SHOP The furniture in a blacksmith shop consists of forge, anvil, half barrel, vise bench, drill press and tool rack. A farm shop also has a heating stove, shave horse, a woodworking bench, a good power driven grindstone and a double emery grinder. 32 FARM MECHANICS Forge, — The old-fashioned forge laid up with brick in connection with an old-fashioned chimney is just as popular as ever. The same old tuyer iron receives the air blast from the same old style leather bellows, and there is nothing more satisfactory. But there are mod- Figure 37. — Portable Forges. The smaller forge is for light work such as heating rivets for iron bridge construction. The larger forge to the right is meant for blacksmith work. ern portable forges, Figure 37, made of iron, that are less artistic, cheaper, take up less room and answer the purpose just about as well. The portable iron forge has a small blower attached to the frame which feeds oxygen into the fire. There are a good many different sizes of portable forges. Most of them work well up to their advertised capacity. THE FARM SHOP 33 Generally, farm forges are not required to develop a great amount of heat. Farmers do but little weld- ing, most of the forge work on the farm being eon- fined to repair work such as heating brace irons, so they may be easily bent into the proper shape, or to soften metal so that holes may be punched through it easily. Sharpening harrow teeth, drawing out plow points and horseshoeing are about the heaviest forge jobs re- Figure 38. — Anvil. The only satisfactory anvil is forged ©ut of ingot steel with a power trip-hammer. It should weigh 140 pounds. quired in a farm blacksmith shop, so that a medium size forge will answer the purpose. Anvil. — ^An anvil should weigh at least 120 pounds ; 140 is better. It should be set six feet from the center of the fire to the center of the anvil. It should be placed on a timber the size of the base of the anvil set three feet in the ground. The top of the anvil should be about thirty inches high. Holmstrom's rule is: *^ Close the fist, stand erect with the arm hanging down. The knuckles should just clear the face of the anvil." 34 FARM MECHANICS Bench and Vise, — The vise bench should be made solid and it should face a good light. The bench win- dow should look to the east or north if possible. It Figure 39. — (1) Shoeing Tool Box. The four small compartments are for horseshoe nails of different sizes. There may be a leather loop for the paring knife. The low box end is for the shoeing ham- mer, rasp, nippers and hoof knife. (2) Blacksmith Tool Rack. Tongs, handled punches and cutters are hung on the iron rails. Hammers are thrown on top. The lower platform is the shop catch-all. Figure 40. — Shoeing Knife. Good temper is the main qualifica- tiop. All shoeing knives are practically the same shape, although they may vary in size. should be about four feet high and eight feet long, with the window sill about six inches above the bench. Two and one-half feet is the usual height for a workbench above the floor. The best workbench tops THE FARM SHOP 35 are made by bolting together 2x4 's with the edges up. Hardwood makes the best bench, but good pine will last for years. The top surface should be planed true and smooth after the nuts are drawn tight. Figure 41. — Horseshoeing Rasp and Wood Rasp. These are neces- sary tools in the farm shop. Figure 42. — Iron Work Bench. Solid is the first specification for an iron shop bench. It should be three feet wide, not less than eight feet long and about 32 inches high. The top is made of 2x4s placed on edge and bolted together. The supports are 2x6 bolted to the shop studding and braced back to the studding at the sill. The front part of the bench is supported by iron legs made of gas- pipe with threaded flanges at top and bottom. Heavy right angle wrought iron lugs are used to fasten the top of the bench to the studding. The foot of the vise leg is let into the floor of the shop or into a solid wooden block sunk in the ground. The bench vise should be heavy. A vise is used for bending iron hot from the forge. Unless the jaws are large, the hot iron is likely to heat the vise sufficiently to draw the temper. Heavy jaws are solid enough to 86 FARM MECHANTCIS support the iron when it is being hammered. Often heavy hammers are used for this purpose. A heayy vise holds the work solid, because it may be screwed I Figure 43. — Assortment of Files and Rasps needed in a farm shop. (1) Slim three-cornered handsaw-file. (2) Common three-cornered file suitable for filing a buck-saw. (3) Double-cut, or bastard, 10- inch flat file. (4) Single-cut, or mill file, either 10 or 12 inches. (5) Half-round 10-inch wood rasp. (6) Horseshoer's rasp. Figure 44. — File Handle. Basswood makes the most satisfactory file handles. They are fitted by carefully turning them onto the file shank to take the right taper. There should be a handle for each file. The handle should be the right size and fitted straight with the file so the file will take the same angle to the work when turned over. THE FARM SHOP 37 Figure 45. — Nail Set. On all wooden surfaces to be painted nails should be carefuly driven with a round peen nail hammer and the heads sunk about one-eighth of an inch deep with a nail set.. The holes may then be filled with putty and covered smoothly with paint. Figure 46. — Cold-Chisel. There are more flat cold-chisels than all other shapes. They are easily made in the farm shop and it is good practice. They are usually made from octagon steel. Differ- ent sizes are needed according to the work in hand. A piece of %" steel 6" long makes a handy cold-chisel for repair work. Figure 47. — Cape Cold-Chisel. It may be tapered both ways or one way to a cutting edge, or one edge may be rounded. Figure 48. — (1) Tinner's Punch. Made of octagon steel in sizes to fit the rivets. The cutting end is flat and has sharp edges made by roll filing. It should be about 7" long and from %" to %" in diameter, according to the size of rivet and thickness of sheet metal to be punched. (2) Prick Punch. Usually made rather short and stocky. It may be i/^" or %" diameter and 4i^" to 5" long. (3) Hot-Iron Punch." Made in many sizes and lengths. The taper should be the same as the drawing. 38 FARM MECHANICS SO much tighter than a light vise. A heavy vise will hold light work, but a light vise will not hold heavy work. Heavy vises cost more, but they are cheaper in Figure 49. — (1) Blacksmith Vise. The old-fashioned leg vise is the most satisfactory for the blacksmith shop. It should have 5" jaws. (2) Power Post Drill. Belt power is practical for the post drill in a farm shop. The hand crank may be easily attached when needed. the end and more satisfactory at all times. A leg vise with five-inch jaws weighs about sixty pounds ; five and one-half -inch jaws, eighty pounds. A machinist's vise THE FARM SHOP 39 is made to bolt on top of the bench. It will answer for blacksmith work on the farm, but is not as good as the old-fashioned leg vise. A machinist's vise is very use- ful in the garage, but it would hardly be necessary to have two heavy vises. The pipe vise belongs on a separate bench, which may be a plank bracketed against the side of the room. Drill-Press, — The most satisfactory drill-press for use on a farm is the upright drill that bolts to a post. There is usually a self feed which may be regulated according to the work. The heavy flywheel keeps the motion steady, and because there is no bench in the way, wagon tires may be suspended from the drill block, so they will hang free and true for drilling. Often long pieces of straight iron are drilled with holes spaced certain distances apart. It is easier to pass them along when they lie flat side down on the drill block. To use a drill properly and safely, the chuck must run true. It is easy to break a drill when it wabbles. Most drills are made on the twist pattern, and it is something of a trick to grind a twist drill, but anyone can do it if he tackles the job with a determination to do it right. In grinding a twist drill, use a new drill for pattern. Grind the angles the same as the new drill, and be careful to have the point in the center. A little practice will make perfect. Mechanics will say that no one except an expert should attempt to grind a twist drill, but farmers who are mechanically inclined are the best experts within reach. It is up to a farmer to grind his own drills or use them dull. In drilling wrought iron either water or oil is re- quired to cool the drill, but cast iron and brass are 40 FARM MECHANICS drilled dry. Light work such as hoop -iron may be drilled dry, but the cutting edge of the drill will last longer even in light work if the drill is fed with oil or water. Figure 50. — (1) Electric Drill-Press. A small electric motor is attached to the drill spindle. (2) Tram Points. Two steel points are fitted with thumbscrew clamps to fasten them to a long wooden bar. They are used to scribe circles too large for the compasses. (3) Ratchet-Brace. Two braces, or bitstocks, are needed. A large brace with a 6" radius for large bits and a small brace with a 3" or 3^" radius for small bits. In using drill-presses, some extra attachments come in very handy, such as a screw clamp to hold short pieces of metal. Before starting the drill, a center THE FARM SHOP 41 punch is used to mark the center of the hole to be bored and to start the drill in the right spot. Figure 51. — Twist-Drills. Round shank for the post drill and square taper shank for brace work. Brace drills are small, %" or Figure 52.- -Taper Reamer. Used to enlarge, or true, or taper a hole that has been drilled or punched. Figure 53. — ^Another style of Reamer. Figure 54. — Countersink. This is the old style, blacksmith-made, flat countersink. It will do quick work but not so smooth as the fluted kind. In doing particular work, the drill may be re- centered when it starts wrong. This is done with a 42 FARM MECHANICS small round-nosed cold chisel. If the work is not very particular, the drill may be turned a little to one side by slanting the piece to be drilled. This plan is only a makeshift, however, the proper way being to block the work level, so that the drill will meet it perpendicu- larly. However, by starting carefully, the hole may be bored exactly as required. Iro7i Working Tools.— Forge tools for a farm shop need not be numerous. Several pairs of tongs, one Figure 55. — Machinist's Hammfers. A me- dium weight should be selected for farm repair work. It should be hung so the end of the handle clears half an inch when the face rests flat on the bench. s blacksmith hammer, one sledge, one hardy, one wooden-handled cold chisel, one pair pincers, one par- ing knife, one shoeing rasp, and one shoeing hammer will do to begin with. Monkey-wrenches come first in the wrench depart- ment. The farmer needs three sizes, one may be quite small, say six inches in length, one ten inches, and the other large enough to span a two-inch nut. And there should be an ironclad rule, never use a monkey-wrench for a hammer. For work around plows, cultivators, harvesters, and other farm machines, a case of S THE FARM SHOP 43 Figure 56i — ^(1) Hardy. The anvil hardy is used more than any other anvil tool except the blacksmith's hammer and tongs. (2) A Cold-Shut Link that may be welded, riveted or simply pounded shut. 1 2 3 Figure 57. — Calipers: (1) A pair of tight-joint inside calipers. (2) Its mate for taking outside dimensions. (3) A pair of spring- jointed, screw-adjustment inside calipers for machinists' use. Figure 58. — Blacksmith Tongs. Straight tongs made to hold %" iron is the handiest size. Two or three pairs for larger sizes of iron and one pair smaller come in handy. 44 FARM MECHANICS wrenches will be greatly appreciated. Manufacturers include wrenches with almost all farm machines, but such wrenches are too cheap to be of much use. For heavier work pipe-wrenches are absolutely necessary. The reason for having so many wrenches is Figure 59. — (1) Wire Splicer. The oval openings in the tool are of different sizes. They are made to hold two wires, close together, with ends projecting in opposite directions. Each end is wound around the other wire. The ends are then notched with a three- cornered file and broken off short and filed smooth. The splicing tool should be thin, about %" or ^^", to bring the two twists close together. This is especially necessary in making hoops for wooden pails. (2) Blacksmith Shoeing Pincers, used to pull horseshoes. They should close together to catch a nail by the head. ^ ^(^ Figure 60. — (1) Cotter Pin Tool. Handy for inserting or remov- ing all sorts of cotter keys. (2) Nest of S Wrenches of different sizes. Farmers have never appreciated the value of light, handy wrenches to fit all sorts of nuts and bolt heads closely. to save time when in the field. It often happens that men and horses stand idle waiting for what should be a quick repair job. For bench work a riveting hammer and a ball pene machinist 's hammer are needed. A nest of S wrenches, two rivet sets, cold chisels, round punches and several files also are required. THE FARM SHOP 45 The same twist drills up to three-eighths-inch will do for iron as well as wood. However, if much drilling is done, then round shank twist drills to fit the drill chuck will work better. Farmers seldom drill holes in iron larger than one-half inch. For particular work, to get the exact size, reamers are used to finish the Figure 61. — Hack Saw. One handle and a dozen blades. The frame should be stiff enough either to push or pull the saw without binding. The teeth may point either way to suit the work in hand. Figure 62. — ^Powerful Bolt Cutter. It is intended for factory use. holes after drilling. Screw holes in iron are counter- sunk in the drill-press. For small work, twist drills with square shanks for brace use should range in sizes from one thirty-second of an inch up to one-quarter inch, then every one- sixteenth inch up to one-half inch. For boring screw holes in wood the quickest work is done with pod bits. Not many sizes are needed, but they are cheap, so that a half dozen, ranging from one- sixteenth to one-quarter inch or thereabouts, will be found very useful. Pod bits belong to the wood de- 46 FARM MECHANICS partment, but on account of being used principally for screw sinking, they are just as useful in the iron work- ing department as in the carpenter shop. Sheet metal snips for cutting sheet metal properly belong with the iron working tools. Snips are from ten to fourteen inches in length. A medium size is best for miscellaneous work. If kept in good working Figure 63. — Cutting Nippers. For cutting the points from horse- shoe nails after they are driven through the hoof to hold the shoe in place. These nippers are hard tempered and should not be used for any other purpose. Figure 64. — Two Shapes of Steel Crowbars. order twelve-inch snips will cut 18-gauge galvanized or black iron. But a man would not care to do a great deal of such heavy cutting. Pipe-Fitting Tools. — Recent farm improvements re- quire a few tools that rightfully belong to plumbers. Every farm has some kind of water supply for domes- tic use and for live-stock. A great many farm ma- chines require pipe tools for repair work. Every year more plumbing reaches the farm. Plumbing work is no more difficult than other me- chanical work, if the tools are at hand to meet the dif- THE FARM SHOP 47 ferent requirements. One job of plumbing that used to stand out as an impossibility was the soldering to- gether of lead pipes, technically termed ''wiping a joint.'' This operation has been discontinued. Every possible connection required in farm plumbing is now provided for in standardized fittings. Every pipe-fit- ting or connection that conducts supply water or waste Figure 65. — (1) Pipe Vise. Hinged to open for long pipes. (2) Machinist's Vise. Made with a turntable to take any horizontal angle. The pipe jaws are removable. water nowadays screws together. Sizes are all made to certain standards and the couplings are almost per- fect, so that work formerly shrouded in mystery or hidden under trade secrets is now open to every schoolboy who has learned to read. The necessary outfit to handle all the piping and plumbing on the farm is not very expensive, probably $25.00 will include every tool and all other appliances necessary to put in all the piping needed to carry water to the watering troughs and to supply hot and cold 48 FARM MECHANICS water to the kitchen and the bathroom, together with the waste pipes, ventilators and the sewer to the septic tank. The same outfit of tools will answer for repair work for a lifetime. Farm water pipes usually are small. There may be a two-inch suction pipe to the force pump, and the dis- Figure 66. — Pipe Cutter. The most satisfactory pipe cutter has three knife-edge roller cutters which follow each other around the pipe. Some of these cutters have two flat face rollers and one cutter roller to prevent raising a burr on the end of the pipe. The flat face rollers iron out the burr and leave the freshly cut pipe the same size clear to the end. Figure 67. — Pipe-Wrench. This type of wrench is valuable for working with the heavier farm implements. It is intended more for holding than for turning. It is rather rough on nuts. Damaged nuts show signs of careless work. charge may be one and a half inch. But these pipes are not likely to make trouble. There should be a good pipe vise that will hold any size pipe up to three inches. At least two pipe wrenches are needed and they should be adjustable from one- quarter-inch up to two-inch pipe. We must remember that water pipe sizes mean in- side measurements. One-inch pipe is about one and one-quarter inches outside diameter. Three-quarter- THE FARM SHOP 49 inch pipe is about one inch outside. Two-inch pipe will carry four times as much water as one-inch pipe, under the rule ^ ^ doubling the diameter increases the capacity four times/' The three-wheel pipe cutter works quickly and is satisfactory for most jobs. Sometimes two of the knife Figure 68. — A smaller sized wrench with wooden handle. wheels are removed and rollers substituted to prevent raising a burr on the end of the pipe. Threading dies are made in standard sizes. A good farm set consists of stock and dies to thread all the different sizes of pipe from one-quarter inch to one inch, inclusive. Not many pipes larger than inch are threaded on the farm. They are cut to the proper lengths in the farm shop and the threads are cut in town. CHAPTER II FARM SHOP WORK PROFITABLE HOME REPAIR WORK Each farmer must be the judge in regard to the kind of mechanical repair work that should be done at home and the kind and amount of repair work that should go to the shop in town. A great deal depends on the Figure 69. — Logging Chain. One of the cleverest farm inventions of any age is the logging chain. It is universally used in all lumber camps and on every farm. It usually is from 16 to 20 feet in length, with a round hook on one end for the slip hitch and a grab hook on the other end that makes fast between any two links. mechanical ability of the farmer or his helpers. How- ever, the poorest farm mechanic can do *^ first aid^' service to farm implements and machinery in the nick of time, if he is so disposed. A great many farmers are helpless in this respect because they want to be help- less. It is so much easier to let it go than to go right at it with a determination to fix it, and fix it right. 50 FARM SHOP WORK 51 On general principles, however, farm repair work should not occupy a farmer 's time to the detriment of growing crops or the proper care of live-stock. Farm- ing is the business ; mechanical work is a side issue. At Figure 70. — Neckyoke and Whiffletree Irons. Farmers can make better neckyokes and whiffletrees than they can buy ready-made. The irons may be bought separately and the wood selected piece by piece. Figure 71. — Measuring a Worn Skein for a New Boxing. The pasteboard calipers are cut to fit the old skein sideways because it is probably flattened on the bottom from wear. the same time, a farmer so inclined can find time dur- ing the year to look over every farm machine, every implement and every hand tool on the farm. The stupidest farm helper can clean the rust off of a spade and rub the surface with an oily cloth, in which some fine emery has been dusted. The emery will re- 52 FARM MECHANICS move the rust and the oil will prevent it from further rusting. Every laborer knows better than to use a spade or shovel after a rivet head has given way so the handle is not properly supported by the plate exten- sions. There really is no excuse for using tools or ma- chinery that are out of repair, but the extent to which Figure 72. — Wooden Wagon Axles. Axle timber may be bought in the rough or partly fitted to the skeins. IT Figure 73. — Showing how to fit the irons on the forward end of wagon reach. m\\iui\iiiiMii mw w^ Figure 74.- -Wire Splice. With a little practice wire may be wound close enough to prevent slipping. a farmer can profitably do his own repairing depends on many contingencies. In every case he must decide according to circumstances, always, however, with a desire and determination to run his farm on business principles. Home-made Bolts, — The easiest way to make a bolt is to cut a rod of round iron the proper length and run a thread on each end. On one end the thread may be just long enough to rivet the head, while the thread on FARM SHOP WORK 53 the other end is made longer to accommodate the nut and to take up slack. A farmer needs round iron in sizes from one-fourth inch to five-eighths inch. He will use more three-eighths and one-half inch than any- other sizes. Blank nuts are made in standard sizes to Parts to Make Bolt (Nuts and Threaded Rod) Rod Rivited Figure 75. — Emergency Bolts. A bolt may be made quickly with- out a forge fire by cutting a short thread on one end for the head and a longer thread on the other end for the nut. Figure 76. — Rivets. A stock of soft iron rivets of different sizes and lengths should be always kept on hand ready for immediate use. fit any size of round iron. Have an assortment, in dif- ferent sizes, of both the square and the hexagon nuts. To make a bolt in the ordinary way requires weld- ing, but for repair work in a hurry it is better to select the proper iron and cut it to the required length either with a cold chisel in the vise, or with a hardy and a handled cold chisel over an anvil. The quickest 54 FARM MECHANICS Figure 77. — Rivets. Figure 78. — Rivet Set. This style of set is used for small rivets. The size should be selected to fit the rivets closely. Larger rivets are made to bug the work by means of a flat piece of steel with a hole through it. Figure 79. — ^Rivet Set. Figure 80. — i(l) Coulter Clamp. Plow-beam clamps should be made in the farm shop to fit each plow. (2) Garden Weeder. The quickest hand killer of young weeds in the garden is a flat steel blade that works horizontally half an inch below the surface of the ground. FARM SHOP WORK Figure 81. — Stock and Dies. Taps and dies and stocks are best kept in compartments in a case made for the purpose. Figure 82. — Stock for Round Dies. The opening is turned true and sized accurately to fit. The screw applies pressure to hold the die by friction. „/\AA/vAAA/\'V^/-v~^-v-< =-v»,#^^s#^.A#>*^**^**^'»^>«'*^ Figure 83. — Taps and Dies. Standard threads are tapped into blank nuts and corresponding threads are cut onto bolts with ac- curacy and rapidity by using this style taps and dies. They may be had in all sizes. The range for farm work should cut from M" to %", inclusive. 56 FARM MECHANICS way of cutting that mashes the rod the least is to be preferred. The size of the rod will determine the man- ner of cutting in most instances. Figure 84. — Taper Tap for Blacksmith's Use. "^^ ^ Figure 85. — Machine Bolt and Carriage Bolt. The first is used against iron and the second against wood, but this rule is not arbi- trary. The rounded side of the nuts are turned in against wood ; the flat side against washers or heavier iron. Use square head bolts If you expect to take them out after the nuts have rusted on. Figure 86. — Plow bolts and sickle bar bolts should be kept in stock. Standard sizes and shapes are made for several different makes of plows and machines. Taps and dies are made to fit each size of rod. If the thread on the bolt is cut with a solid, or round, plate die, the corresponding tap is run clear through the nut. In that case the nut will screw on the bolt easily, possibly a little loose for some purposes. It is so in- tended by the manufacturers to give the workman a FARM SHOP WORK 57 little leeway. If it is desirable to have the nut screw on the bolt very tight, then the tap is stopped before the last thread enters the nut. A little practice soon Figure 87.^Lag Screw. To set a lag screw in hardwood, bore a hole the size of the screw shank as calipered between the threads. Figure 88. — (1) Wagon-Box Irons, showing how to attach the box and the rave to the cross-piece and to brace the side of the box to hold it upright. There may be several of these braces on each side of the wagon box. (2) U Bolt in Cement. A solid staple to be em- bedded in concrete for a horse ring, door hinge, cow stanchion, etc. 58 FARM MECHANICS qualifies a workman to fit a nut according to the place the bolt is to occupy. Generally it is desirable to have nuts fit very snug on parts of machines that shake a good deal, and this applies to almost all farm machinery and implements. Ordinarily a horse rake is supposed to travel steadily along like a cart, but the ground is rough and in practi- Figure 89. — Wagon-Box Brace. It is offset to hold the rave and to brace the sideboard at the rear and the front ends and some- times in the middle of light wagon beds. Figure 90. — Two Plow Clevises and a Plow Link. cal use the nuts loosen almost as soon as haying com- mences. Some farmers make a practice of riveting bolt ends to prevent nuts from working loose. When the bolts have square heads, this practice is not objectionable, because with two wrenches a nut. can be twisted off over the riveting, but a great many bolts have round heads and very short, square shanks. Theoretically, the shanks are driven into the wood firm enough to prevent the bolts from turning. Practically this FARM SHOB WORK 59 theory is a delusion and a snare, as every farm boy can testify. Bolts are not manufactured in quantities in the farm blacksmith shop. They can be made by machinery cheaper, but so many times a bolt is needed on short notice that the farm shop should have the necessary tools and materials to supply the need quickly. Forging Iron and Steel. — Iron and steel are com- posed of the same properties, but differ chemically. Steel also is finer grained than iron and it requires different treatment. Iron should be forged at a light- red or white heat. If forged at a dark-red heat the iron generally will granulate or crack open and weaken the metal. For a smooth finish the last forging may be done at a dark-red heat, but the hammer must be used lightly. The weight of the hammer as well as the blows also must differ with the different size of iron under heat. Small sizes should be treated with ham- mer blows that are rather light, while for large sizes the blows should be correspondingly heavy. If light blows be given with a light hammer in forging heavy iron the outside alone will be affected, thus causing itneven tension and contrarywise strain in the iron. Steel should never be heated above a yellow heat. If heated to a white heat the steel will be burned. Steel should never be forged at a dark-red heat. If this is done it will cause considerable strain between the inner and outer portions, which may cause it to crack while forging. The weight of the hammer and the hammer blows in forging of steel is vastly of more importance than in forging iron. If the blow or the hammer is not heavy enough to exert its force throughout the thick- ness of the steel it will probably crack in the process of hardening or tempering. If steel be properly forged it 60 FARM MECHANICS will harden easily and naturally, but if improperly forged the tempering will be very difficult — probably a failure. The quality of a finished tool depends greatly upon the correct heat and proper method used in forg- ing and hardening it. . Making Steel Tools. — Steel for tools should first be annealed to even the density and prevent warping. This is done by heating it to a dull cherry red in a slow fire. A charcoal fire for this purpose is best because it contains no sulphur or other injurious impurities. After heating the piece of new steel all over as evenly as possible it should be buried several inches deep in powdered charcoal and left to cool. This completes the annealing process. While working steel into proper shape for tools, great care is required to prevent burn- ing. It should be worked quickly and the process re- peated as often as necessary. Practice is the only recipe for speed. When the tool is shaped as well as possible on the anvil it is then finished with a file by clamping the new tool in the vise, using single cut files. Bastard files are too rough for tool steel. After the tool is shaped by cross-filing and draw-filing to make it smooth it is some- times polished by wrapping fine emery cloth around the file. Oil is used with emery cloth to give the steel a luster finish. Tempering is the last process in the making of such tools as cold chisels, drills, dies, punches, scratchawls, etc. Tempering Steel Tools. — Good judgment is required to get the right temper. Good eyesight is needed to catch the color at the exact instant, and quick action to plunge it into the water before it cools too much. Dies are made very hard. The color of the steel at dipping time should be a bright straw color. Cold chisels will FARM SHOP WORK 61 Figure 91. — Blacksmith Hammers. Some smiths use a heavy ma- chinist's hammer. But the flat peen is more useful when working around the anvil and the leg vise. 62 FARM MECHANICS break when being used if tempered too hard. If cold chisels are to be used for cutting iron, the color should be violet ; if the chisels are for cutting stone, purple is the color. Drills for boring iron are tempered a dark straw color at the cutting edge merging back into blue. The water in the dipping tub should be warm, as steel is likely to check or crack when it is tempered in cold water. Tool steel should be held in a perpendicular position when it enters the water to cool all sides alike. Other- wise the new tool might warp. It is better to dip slowly, sometimes holding the point, or cutting edge, in the water while permitting the shank to cool slowly enough to remain soft. Some sizes of steel may be tempered too hard at first and the temper immediately drawn by permitting the heat of the shank to follow down almost to the edge, then dip. This is done quickly while watching the colors as they move to- wards the point or edge. Draw-filing. — Making six-sided and eight-sided punches and scratchawls out of hexagon and octagon tool steel is interesting work. The steel is cut to length by filing a crease all around with a three-cornered file. When it is sufficiently notched, the steel will break straight across. To shape the tool and to draw out the point the steel is heated in the forge to a dull cherry red and hammered carefully to preserve the shape along the taper. Special attention must be given to the numerous corners. A scratchawl or small punch, must be heated many times and hammered quickly be- fore cooling. An old English shop adage reads: ' ^ Only one blacksmith ever went to the devil and that was for pounding cold iron." After the punch or scratchawl is roughed out on the FARM SHOP WORK 63 anvil, it is fastened in the vise and finished by cross- filing and draw-filing. Copper caps on the vise jaws , will prevent indentations. Draw-filing means grasping each end of the file and moving it back and forth sidewise along the work. For Figure 92. — Vise Jaw Guards. Soft auxiliary vise jaws are made of sheet copper or galvanized iron. Turn Piece M while uding "7 ilMHIIIIIIIIIIIIIIHIIIIlliiliiiiiiiMiiinnifTni Clamp Block, in Vise ^""""""-"""■■"ITMnH (61 DE VIEW) i Bi&JL Figure 93. — Roll Filing. To file a piece 6t steel round it is rolled by one hand while the file is used by the other hand. this purpose single-cut files are used. The smoothing is done with a very fine single-cut file, or if very par- ticular, a float file is used. Then the polish is rubbed on with fine emery cloth and oil. The emery cloth is wrapped around the file and the same motion is con- tinued. With some little practice a very creditable 64 FARM MECHANICS piece of work may be turned out. Such work is valu- able because of the instruction. A good test of skill at blacksmithing is making an octagon punch that tapers true to the eye when finished. Set-Screws, — It is customary to fasten a good many gear wheels, cranks and pulleys to machinery shafts by set-screws. There are two kinds of set-screws ; one has a cone point, the other a cup end. Both screws are hardened to sink into the shaft. A cup is supposed to cut a ring and the point is supposed to sink into the shaft to make a small hole sufficient to keep the wheel Figure 94. — Machine-Bolt and Set-Screw. The bolt to the left is used to clamp cylinder heads in place. The set-screw to the right is the cup variety. The end is countersunk to form a cup with a sharp rim. from slipping. However, unless the cone-pointed screw is countersunk into the shaft, it will not hold much of a strain. The point is so small it will slip and cut a groove around the shaft. To prevent this, the set-screw may be countersunk by first marking the shaft with an indentation of the point of the screw. Then the wheel * or crank or collar may be removed and a hole drilled into the shaft with a twist-drill the same size, or a sixty-fourth smaller, than the set-screw. Then by forcing the end of the set-screw into the drill hole, the wheel is held solid. The principal objection to set-screws is that they are ^ dangerous. The heads always project and are ready to catch a coat sleeve when the shaft is revolving. In all cases, set-screws should be as large as the hub will FARM SHOP WORK 65 allow, and it is better to have them protected so it is im- possible to catch anything to wind around the shaft. Cup set-screws are not satisfactory except for very light work. If necessary to use them, the ends may be firmly fixed by cutting a ring with a sharp, diamond- point cold chisel. Setting the Handsaw. — Nine teeth to the inch is the most satisfactory handsaw for all kinds of lumber. Setting the teeth of this kind of saw is best done with a hand lever set. The plunger pin should be care- fully adjusted to bend the teeth just far enough to give the necessary set. For general wcTrk a saw needs more set than is needed for kiln-dried stuff. The teeth should cut a kerf just wide enough to clear the blade. Anything more is a waste of time and muscle. It is better to work from both sides of the saw by first set- ting one side the whole length of the blade. Then re- verse the saw in the clamp and set the alternate teeth in the same manner. There should be a good solid stop between the handles of the set to insure equal pressure against each sawtooth. The pin should be carefully placed against each tooth at exactly the same spot every time and the pressure should be the same for each tooth. The best saw-sets for fine tooth saws are automatic so far as it is possible to make them so, but the skill of the operator determines the quality of the work. The reason for setting a saw before jointing is to leave the flattened ends of the teeth square with the blade after the jointing and filing is completed. Jointing a Handsaw. — After the saw has been set it must be jointed to square the teeth and to even them to equal length, and to keep the saw straight on the cut- ting edge. Some woodworkers give their saws a slight 66 FARM MECHANICS camber, or belly, to correspond with the sway-back. The camber facilitates cutting to the bottom in mitre- box work without sawing into the bed piece of the box. It also throws the greatest weight of the thrust upon the middle teeth. A saw with even teeth cuts smoother, runs truer and works faster than a saw filed by guess. It is easy to file a saw when all of the teeth are the same ^Oldnic r— R ivet to Prevent 5plltting of Block Figure 95. — Saw Jointer. The wooden block is about two inches square by 12" or 14" in length. The block is made true and scribed carefully to have the ripsaw slot square, straight and true. The file is set into a mortise square with the block. length and all have the same set. Anyone can do a good job of filing if the saw is made right to begin with, but no one can put a saw in good working order with a three-cornered file as his only tool. Filing the Handsaw. — First comes the three-cor- nered file. It should be just large enough to do the work. There is no economy in buying larger files thinking that each of the three corners will answer the same purpose as a whole file of smaller size. In the first place the small file is better controlled and will do better work. In the second place the three corners are needed to gum the bottoms of the divisions between FARM SHOP WORK - 67 the teeth. There is much more wear on the corners than on the sides of a saw-file. Also the corners of a small file are more acute, which means a good deal in the shape of the finished teeth. After the saw is carefully set and jointed, clamp it in the saw vise and file one side of the saw from heel to point. Then reverse the saw in the saw clamp and file the other side, being careful to keep the bevel of each tooth the same. It is better to stop filing just be- fore the tooth comes to a point. A triangular or dia- mond shaped point will cut faster and leave a smoother saw kerf and last longer than a needle point. As the tooth of a crosscut saw is filed away from both edges, it is necessary to make allowances when filing the first side, otherwise some of the teeth will come to a sharp point before the gumming is deep enough. Using a Handsaw, — Anyone can saw a board square both up and down and crossways by following a few simple rules. Have the board supported on the level by two 'v\rell made saw-benches 24'' high. Stand up straight as possible and look down on both sides of the saw blade. Use long even strokes and let the saw play lightly and evenly through the saw cut. Do not cut the mark out ; cut to it on the waste end, or further end, if there are more pieces to be cut from the board. The saw kerf is about 3/32" wide for a nine-tooth saw set for unkilned lumber or dimension stuff. If both saw kerfs are taken from one piece and none from the next then one length will be 3/16" shorter than the other. For practice it is a good plan to make two marks 3/32" apart and cut between them. Use a sharp- pointed scratchawl to make the marks. A penknife blade is next best, but it must be held flat against the 68 FARM MECHANICS blade of the square, otherwise it will crowd in or run off at a tangent. Setting a Circular Saw. — ^A good saw-set for a cir- cular saw may be made out of an old worn-out flat file. Heat the file in the forge fire to draw the temper and anneal it by covering it with ashes. Smooth it on the grindstone. Put it in the vise and file a notch in one edge. The notch should be just wide enough to fit loosely over the point of a sawtooth. The notch should be just deep enough to reach down one-quarter of the length of the tooth. Make a saw-set gauge out of a piece of flat iron or steel one inch wide and about four inches long. File a notch into and parallel to one edge at one corner, about one-sixteenth of an inch deep from the edge and about half an inch long measuring from the end. With the homemade saw-set bend the saw teeth outward until the points just miss the iron gauge in the corner notch. The edges of the gauge should be straight and parallel and the notch should be parallel with the edge. In use the edge of the gauge is laid against the side of the saw so the projecting tooth reaches into the notch. One- sixteenth of an inch may be too much set for a small saw but it won't be too much for a 24-inch wood saw working in green cord wood. Jointing a Circular Saw. — Eun the saw at full speed. Lay a 14-inch file flat on the top of the saw table at right angles to the saw. Move the file slowly and care- fully towards the saw until it ticks against the teeth. Hold the file firmly by both ends until each sawtooth ticks lightly against the file. A saw in good working order needs very little jointing, but it should have at- tention every time the saw is set and it should be done after setting and before filing. FARM SHOP WORK 69 Filing a Circular Saw, — The teeth of a crosscut cir- cular saw point a little ahead. Sometimes they point so nearly straight out from the center that you have to look twice to determine which way the saw should run. There are plenty of rules for the pitch of sawteeth, but they are subject to many qualifications. What inter- ests a farmer is a saw that will cut green poles and crooked limbs into stove lengths with the least possible delay. A saw 20 inches in diameter will cut a stick eight inches through without turning it to finish the cut. The front or cutting edges of the teeth of a 24- inch crosscut circular saw for wood sawing should line to a point a little back from the center. This may not sound definite enough for best results, so the more par- ticular farmers may use a straight edge. Select a straight stick about half an inch square. Rest it on top of or against the back of the saw mandrel and shape the forward edges of the teeth on a line with the upper side or rear side of the straight edge. The teeth will stand at the proper pitch when the saw is new, if it was designed for sawing green wood. If it works right before being filed, then the width of the straight edge may be made to conform to the original pitch and kept for future use. The gumming is done with the edge of the file while filing the front edges of the teeth. It is finished with the flat side of the file while filing the rear edges of the teeth. The depth, or length, of the teeth should be kept the same as the manufacturer designed them. A wood saw works best when the front edges of the teeth have but little bevel. The back edges should have more slant. The teeth should have three-cornered or diamond-shaped points. Needle points break off when they come against knots or cross-grained hardwood. 70 FARM MECHANICS Short teeth do no cutting. Single cut flat files are used for circular saws. The file should fit the saw. It should be about %'' wider than the length of the front side of the teeth. The back edges require that the file shall have some play to show part of the tooth while the file is in motion. Large files are clumsy. The file should be carefully selected. How to Sharpen a Hoe. — It is quicker and more sat- isfactory to file a hoe sharp than to grind it on the Figure 96. — How to Sharpen a Hoe. Grinding a hoe is difficult, but filing it sharp ani straight at the cutting edge is easy. If the hoe chatters when held in the vise, spring a wooden block under the blade. Use false vise jaws to prevent dinging the shank. grindstone. The shank of the hoe must be held firmly in the vise and there should be a solid block of wood under the blade of the hoe, a little back from the edge; to keep the file from chattering. A single cut flat file is the best to use. It should be long enough to be easily held in one position to make a smooth, even bevel at the same angle to the face of the blade all the way across. To make sure not to file a feather edge it is better to joint the hoe to begin with, then to stop filing just before reaching the edge. If the edge be left FARM SHOP WORK 71 1/64'' thick it will wear longer and work more easily- after having been used an hour or two than it will if the edge be filed thin. This is especially noticeable when the ground contains small stones. Hoes are sharpened from the under side only. The inside of a hoe blade should be straight clear to the edge. Hoes should always have sharp corners. When working around valuable plants you want to know exactly where the corner of the hoe is when the blade is buried out of sight in the ground. Shoeing Farm Horses. — Farmers have no time or inclination to make a business of shoeing horses, but there are occasions when it is necessary to pull a shoe or set a shoe and to do it quickly. Shoeing tools are not numerous or expensive. They consist first of a tool box, with a stiff iron handle made in the shape of a bale. The box contains a shoeing hammer, hoof rasp, hoof knife, or paring-knife, as it is usually called, and two sizes of horseshoe-nails. Sometimes a foot pedestal is used to set the horse's front foot on when the horse wants to bear down too hard, but this pedestal is not necessary in the farm shop. There are flat-footed horses that ed onders or araYt) Figure 198. — Concrete Hog Wallow, showing draii^ pipe. Figure 199. — Concrete Center Alley for Hog House. The upper illustration represents the wooden template used to form the center of the hog house floor. 210 FARM MECHANICS Str^w Top-^ Concrete PoerfJiS^^^^^^ Wire Mesh Filled with STrflW^ Figure 200. — Sanitary Pig-Pen. One of the most satisfactory far- rowing houses is constructed of concrete posts 6" square and 6" square mesh hog fencing and straw. The posts are set to make far- rowing pens 8' wide and 16' deep from front to back. Woven wire is stretched and fastened to both sides of the posts at the sides and back of each pen. Straw is stuffed in between the two wire nets, thus making partitions of straw 6" thick and 42" high. Fence wire is stretched over the top and straw piled on deep enough to shed rain. The front of the pens face the south and are closed by wooden gates. In the spring the pigs are turned out on pasture, the straw roof is, hauled to the fields for manure and the straw partitions burned out. The sun shines into the skeleton pens all summer so that all mischievous bacteria are killed and the hog-lice are burned or starved. The next fall concrete floors may be laid in the pens, the partitions restuffed with straw and covered with another straw roof. In a colder climate I would cover the whole top with a straw roof. Sufficient ventilation would work through the straw partitions and the front gate. In very cold weather add a thin layer of straw to the gate. Figure 201. — Concrete Wall Mold. Wooden molds for shaping a concrete wall may be made as shown. If the "wall is to be low — 2' or less — the mold will stay in place without bolting or wiring the sides together. The form is made level by first leveling the 2"x6" stringers that support the form. MISCELLANEOUS FARM CONVENIENCES 211 pin is about four inches long, five-eighths of an inch thick and it is shaped like a lead-pencil with a rather long point. A recessed girdle is cut around the barrel of the pin and a leather finger ring fits into and around this girdle. Generally the leather ring fits the larger Figure 202. — Husking-Pin. The leather finger ring is looped into the recess in the wooden pin. Figure 203. — Harness Punch. The hollow punch points are of different sizes. Figure 204. — Belt Punch. Two or three sizes should be kept in the tool box. Belt holes should be small to hold the lace tight. The smooth running of belts depends a good deal on the lacing. Holes punch better against the end of a hickory block or other fine grained hardwood. finger to hold the pin in the right position while per- mitting it to turn to wear the point all around alike. Bone husking-pins are generally flat with a hole through the center to hold the leather finger ring. Steel husking-pins are shaped differently and have teeth to catch and tear the husks apart. 212 FARM MECHANICS PAINT BRUSHES Paint brushes may be left in the paint for a year without apparent injury. The paint should be deep enough to nearly bury the bristles. Pour a little boiled linseed oil over the top to form a skin to keep the air out. It is cheaper to buy a new brush than to clean the paint out of one that has been used. ttB. Clove Hitch Lflshjng Running Knot Figure 205. — 'Knots. The simple principles of knot tying as practiced on farms are here represented. Figure 206. — Sheepshank, two half hitches in a rope to take up slack. The rope may be folded upon itself as many times as neces- sary. Figure 207. — ^Marline Spike. Used for splicing ropes, tying rose knots, etc. FRUIT PICKING Apples are handled as carefully as eggs by men who understand the business of getting high prices. MISCELLANEOUS FARM CONVENIENCES 213 Picking boxes for apples have bothered orchard men more than any other part of the business. It is so difficult to get help to handle apples without bruising that many inventions have been tried to lessen the dam- age. In western New York a tray with vertical ends and slanting sides has been adopted by grape growers as the most convenient tray for grapes. Apple growers are adopting the same tray. It is made of three- Figure 208. — Fruit-Picking Tray. It is used for picking grapes and other fruits. The California lug box has vertical sides and is the same size top and bottom. Otherwise the construction is similar. eighths-inch lumber cut 30 inches long for the sides, using two strips for each side. The bottom is 30 inches long and three-eighths of an inch thick, made in one piece. The ends are seven-eighths of an inch thick cut to a bevel so the top edge of the end piece is fourteen inches long and the bottom edge is ten inches long. The depth of the end piece is eight inches. Hand cleats are nailed on the outsides of the end pieces so as to pro- ject one-half inch above the top. These cleats not only serve to lift and carry the trays, but when they are loaded on a wagon the bottoms fit in between the cleats to hold them from slipping endways. In piling these 214 FARM MECHANICS picking boxes empty, one end is slipped outward over the cleat until the other end drops down. This permits half nesting when the boxes are piled up for storage or when loaded ou wagons to move to the orchard. Figure 209. — Fruit Thinning Nippers. Three styles of apple-stem cutters are shown. They are also used for picking grapes and other fruits. Apples are picked into the trays from the trees. The trays are loaded on to wagons or stone-boats and hauled to the packing shed, where the apples are rolled out gently over the sloping sides of the crates on to the cushioned bottom of the sorting table. Orchard men MISCELLANEOUS FARM CONVENIENCES 215 should have crates enough to keep the pickers busy- without emptying until they are hauled to the packing shed. The use of such trays or crates save handling the apples over several times. The less apples are handled the fewer bruises are made. Figure 210. — Apple Picking Ladder. When apples are picked and placed in bushel trays a ladder on wheels with shelves is convenient for holding the trays. In California similar trays are used, but they have straight sides and are called lug boxes. Eastern fruit men prefer the sloping sides because they may be emptied easily, quickly and gently. FRUIT PICKING LADDERS Commercial orchards are pruned to keep the bear- ing fruit spurs as near the ground as possible, so that 216 FARM MECHANICS ladders used at picking time are not so long as they used to be. The illustration shows one of. the most convenient picking ladders. It is a double ladder with shelves to hold picking trays supported by two wheels and two legs. The wheels which are used to support one side Figure 211. — Stepladder and Apple-Picking Bag. This ladder has only three feet, but the bottom of the ladder is made wide to pre- vent upsetting. This bag is useful when picking scattering apples on the outer or upper branches. Picking bags carelessly used are the cause of many bruised apples. Figure 212. — Tree Pruners. The best made pruners are the cheapest. This long handled pruner is made of fine tool steel from the cutting parts clear to the outer ends of the wooden handles. A positive stop prevents the handles from coming together. Small one-hand pruning nippers are made for clean cutting. The blades of both pruners should work towards the tree trunk so the hook will mash the bark on the discarded portion of the limb. MISCELLANEOUS FARM CONVENIENCES 217 of the frame are usually old buggy wheels. A hind axle together with the wheels works about right. The ladder frame is about eight feet high with ladder steps going up from each side. These steps also form the support for the shelves. Picking trays or boxes are placed on the shelves, so the latter will hold eight or ten bushels of apples, and may be wheeled directly to the packing shed if the distance is not too great. Step-ladders from six to ten feet long are more con- venient to get up into the middle of the tree than al- most any other kind of ladder. Commercial apple Figure 213. — Shears. The first pair is used for sheep shearing. The second is intended for cutting grass around the edges of walks and flower beds. trees have open tops to admit sunshine. For this rea- son, straight ladders are not much used. It is neces- sary to have ladders built so they will support them- selves. Sometimes only one leg is used in front of a step-ladder and sometimes ladders are wide at the bot- tom and taper to a point at the top. The kind of lad- der to use depends upon the size of the trees and the manner in which they have been pruned. Usually it is better to have several kinds of ladders of different sizes and lengths. Pickers then have no occasion to wait for each other. FEEDING RACKS Special racks for the feeding of alfalfa hay to hogs are built with slatted sides hinged at the top so they will swing in when the hogs crowd their noses through 218 FARM MECHANICS to get the hay. This movement drops the hay down within reach. Alfalfa hay is especially valuable as a winter feed for breeding stock. Sows may be wintered Figure 214. — Horse Feeding Rack. This is a barnyard hay feeder for horses and colts. The diagonal boarding braces each corner post and leaves large openings at the sides. Horses shy at small hay holes. The top boards and the top rail are 2x4s for strength. The bottom is floored to save the chaff. Figure 215. — Corner Post Detail of Horse Feeding Rack. A 2x6 is spiked into the edge of a 2x4, making a corner post 6" across. The side boarding is cut even with the corner of the post and the open corner is filled with a two-inch quarter-round as shown. MISCELLANEOUS FARM CONVENIENCES 219 on alfalfa with one ear of corn a day and come out in the spring in fit condition to suckle a fine litter of pigs. Alfalfa is a strong protein feed. It furnishes the Figure 216. — Automatic Hog Feeder. The little building is 8 ' xl2 ' on the ground and it is 10' high to the plates. The crushed grain is shoveled in from behind and it feeds down hopper fashion as fast as the hogs eat it. The floor is made of matched lumber. It should stand on a dry concrete floor. Figure 217. — Sheep Feeding Rack. The hay bottom and grain trough sides slope together at 45° angles. The boarding is made tight to hold chaff and grain from wasting. muscle-forming substances necessary for the young litter by causing a copious flow of milk. One ear of corn a day is sufficient to keep the sow in good condi- 220 FARM MECHANICS tion without laying on too much fat. When shoats are fed in the winter for fattening, alfalfa hay helps them to grow. In connection with grain it increases the weight rapidly without adding a great deal of ex- pense to the ration. Alfalfa in every instance is in- tended as a roughage, as an appetizer and as a protein feed. Fat must be added by the use of corn, kaffir corn. Figure 218. — Rack Base and Sides. The 2x4s are halved at the ends and put together at right angles. These frames are placed 3' apart and covered with matched flooring. Light braces should be nailed across these frames a few inches up from the ground. The 1x4 pickets are placed 7" apart in the clear, so the sheep can get their heads through to feed. These picketed frames are bolted to the base and framed around the top. If the rack is more than 9' long there should be a center tie or partition. Twelve feet is a good length to make the racks. Canada peas, barley or other grains. Alfalfa hay is intended to take the place of summer pasture in winter more than as a fattening ration. SPLIT-LOG ROAD DRAG The only low cost road grader of value is the split- log road drag. It should be exactly what the name im- plies. It should be made from a light log about eight inches in diameter split through the middle with a saw. Plenty of road drags are made of timbers instead of split logs, but the real principle is lost because such MISCELLANEOUS FARM CONVENIENCES 221 drags are too heavy and clumsy. They cannot be quickly adjusted to the varying road conditions met with while in use. Figure 219. — Hog Trough. In a winter hog house the feed trough is placed next to the alley or passageway. A cement trough is best. A drop gate is hinged over the trough so it can be swung in while putting feed in the trough. The same gate is opened up level to admit hogs to the pen. The illustration shows the right way of making a road drag, and the manner in which it is drawn along at an angle to the roadway so as to move the earth from the sides towards the center, but illustrations are 222 FARM MECHANICS Figure 220. — Reinforced Hog Trougii. The section of hog trough to the left is reinforced with chicken wire, one-inch mesh. The trough to the right is reinforced with seven %" rods — three in the bottom and two in each side. Xio\}^ Figure 221. — Double Poultry Feeding Trough with Partition in the Center. Figure 222. — 'Poultry Feeder with Metal or Crockery Receptacle. MISCELLANEOUS FARM CONVENIENCES 223 useless for showing how to operate them to do good work. The eccentricities of a split-log road drag may be learned in one lesson by riding it over a mile or two of country road shortly after the frost has left the ground in the spring of the year. It will be noticed that the front half of the road drag presents the flat side of the split log to the work of shaving off the lumps while the other half log levels and smooths and pud- Figure 223. — Split-Log Road Drag. The front edge is shod with a steel plate to do the cutting and the round side of the rear log grinds the loosened earth fine and presses it into the wagon tracks and water holes. dies the loosened moist earth by means of the rounded side. Puddling makes earth waterproof. The front, or cutting edge, is faced with steel. The ridges and humps are cut and shoved straight ahead or to one side to fill holes and ruts. This is done by the driver, who shifts his weight from one end to the other, and from front to back of his standing platform to dis- tribute the earth to the best advantage. The rounded side of the rear half log presses the soft earth into place and leaves the surface smooth. Unfortunately, the habit of using narrow tired wag- ons on country roads has become almost universal in 224 FARM MECHANICS the United States. To add to their destructive propen- sities, all wagons in some parts of the country have the same width of tread so that each wheel follows in paths made by other wheels, until they cut ruts of consider- able depth. These little narrow ditches hold water so that it cannot run off into the drains at the sides of the roadway. When a rut gets started, each passing wheel squeezes out the muddy water, or if the wheel be re- volving at a speed faster than a walk it throws the water, and the water carries part of the roadway with it so that small ruts are made large and deep ruts Figure 224. — Heavy Breaking Plow, used for road work and other tough jobs. are made deeper. In some limited sections road rules demand that wagons shall have wide tires and have shorter front axles, so that with the wide tires and the uneven treads the wheels act as rollers instead of rut makers. It is difficult to introduce such requirements into every farm section. In the meantime the evils of narrow tires may be overcome to a certain extent by the persistent and proper use of the split-log road drag. These drags are most effectual in the springtime when the frost is coming out of the ground. During the muddy season the roads get worked up into ruts and mire holes, which, if taken in time, may be filled by running lengthwise of the road with the drag when the earth is still soft. When the ground shows dry on top MISCELLANEOUS FARM CONVENIENCES 225 and is still soft and wet underneath is the time the drags do the best work by scraping the drier hummocks into the low places where the earth settles hard as it dries. A well rounded, smooth road does not get muddy in the summer time. Summer rains usually come with a dash. Considerable water falls in a short time, and the very act of falling with force first lays the dust, then packs the surface. The smooth packed surface acts like a roof, and almost before the rain stops falling all surface water is drained off to the sides so that an inch down under the surface the roadbed is as hard as it was before the rain. That is the reason why split log road drags used persistently in the spring and occa- sionally later in the season will preserve good roads all summer. It is very much better to follow each summer rain with the road drag, but it is not so necessary as immediate attention at the proper time in spring. Be- sides, farmers are so busy during the summer months that they find it difficult to spend the time. In some sections of the middle West one man is hired to do the dragging at so much per trip over the road. He makes his calculations accordingly and is prepared to do the dragging at all seasons when needed. This plan usu- ally works out the best because one man then makes it his business and he gets paid for the amount of work performed. This man should live at the far end of the road division so that he can smooth his own pathway leading to town. STEEL ROAD DRAG Manufacturers are making road drags of steel with tempered blades adjustable to any angle by simply moving the lever until the dog engages in the proper 226 FARM MECHANICS notch. Some of these machines are made with blades reversible, so that the other side can be used for cut- ting when the first edge is worn. For summer use the steel drag works very well, but it lacks the smoothing action of a well balanced log drag. SEED HOUSE AND BARN TRUCKS Bag trucks for handling bags of grain and seeds should be heavy. Bag truck wheels should be eight inches in diameter with a three-inch face. The steel Figure 225. — Barn Trucks. The platform truck is made to move boxed apples and other fruit. The bag truck is well proportioned and strong, but is not full ironed. bar or shoe that lifts and carries the bag should be twenty-two inches in length. That means that the bot- tom of the truck in front is twenty-two inches wide. The wheels run behind this bar so the hubs do not pro- ject to catch against standing bags or door frames. The length of truck handles from the steel lift bar to the top end of the hand crook is four feet, six inches. In MISCELLANEOUS FARM CONVENIENCES 227 buying bag trucks it is better to get the heavy solid kind that will not upset. The light ones are a great nuisance when running them over uneven floors. The "V- • Figure 226. — Farm Gate Post with Copper Mail Box. wheels are too narrow and too close together and the trucks tip over under slight provocation. Platform trucks for use in moving boxes of apples or crates of 228 FARM MECHANICS potatoes or bags of seed in the seed house or warehouse also should be heavy. The most approved platform truck, the kind that market men use, is made with a frame four feet in length by two feet in width. The frame is made of good solid hardwood put together Figure 227. — Concrete Post Supporting a Waterproof Clothes Line Reel Box. with mortise and tenon. The cross pieces or stiles are three-quarters of an inch lower than the side pieces or rails, which space is filled with hardwood flooring boards firmly bolted to the cross pieces so they come up flush with the side timbers. The top of the platform should be sixteen inches up from the floor. There are MISCELLANEOUS FARM CONVENIENCES 229 two standards in front which carry a woodfen crossbar over the front end of the truck. This crossbar is used for a handle to push or pull the truck. The height of the handle-bar from the floor is three feet. Rear wheels are five inches in diameter and work on a swivel so they turn in any direc- tion like a castor. The two front wheels carry the main weight. They are twelve inches in diameter with a three-inch face. The wheels are bored to fit a one-inch steel axle and have wide boxings bolted to the main tim- bers of the truck frame. Like the two-wheel bag truck, the wheels of the platform truck are under the frame so they do not project out in the way, which is a great advantage when the truck is being used in a crowded place. ^=tir HOME CANNING OUTFIT There small outfits I are small canning uutiit» Figure 228.- manuf actured and sold for farm use ^^'^^. waiter. The . . _ cage IS poised by a that work on the factory principle, counterweight, it TTi • ^ 1.1 4.1!: f X- • is guided by a rope For canning vegetables, the heating is belt which runs on done under pressure because a great tlJe top and bottom, deal of heat is necessary to destroy the bacteria that spoil vegetables in the cans. Steam under pressure is a good deal hotter than boiling water. There is considerable work in using a canning outfit, but it gets the canning out of the way quickly. Extra help may be employed for a few days to do the canning on the same principle that farmers employ extra help at threshing time and do it all up at once. Of course. 230 FARM MECHANICS fruits and vegetables keep coming along at different times in the summer, but the fall fruit canning may be done at two or three sittings arranged a week or two W^ Figure 229. — Clothes Line Tightener. This device is made of No. 9 wire bent as shown in the illustration. Figure 230. — Goat Stall. Milch goats are milked on a raised platform. Feed is placed in the manger. The opening in the side of the manger is a stanchion to hold them steady. apart and enough fruit packed away in the cellar to last a big family a whole year. Canning machinery is simple and inexpensive. These outfits may be bought from $10 up. Probably a $20 or $25 canner would MISCELLANEOUS FARM CONVENIENCES 231 be large enough for a large family, or a dozen dif- ferent families if it could be run on a co-operative plan. Figure 231. — Horse Clippers. Hand clippers are shown to the left. The flexible shaft clipper to the right may be turned by hand for clipping a few horses or shearing a few sheep, but for real busi- ness it should be driven by an electric motor. ELECTRIC TOWEL The *'air towel'' is sanitary, as well as an economical method of drying the hands. A foot pedal closes a quick- 232 FARM MECHANICS acting switch, thereby putting into operation a blower that forces air through an electric heating devise so arranged as to distribute the warmed air to all parts of the hands at the same time. The supply of hot air continues as long as the foot pedal is depressed. The hands are thoroughly dried in thirty seconds. STALLS FOR MILCH GOATS Milch goats are not fastened with stanchions like cows. The front of the manger is boarded tight with the exception of a round hole about two feet high and a slit in the boards reaching from the round opening to Figure 232. — Hog Catching Plook. The wooden handle fits loosely into the iron socket. As soon as the hog's hind leg is engaged the wooden handle is removed and the rope held taut. within a few inches of the floor. The round hole is made large enough so that the goat puts her head through to reach the feed, and the slit is narrow enough so she cannot back up to pull the feed out into the stall. This is a device to save fodder. STABLE HELPS Overhead tracks have made feed carriers possible. Litter or feed carriers and manure carriers run on the same kind of a track, the only difference is in size and shape of the car and the manner in which the contents are unloaded. Manure carriers and litter carriers have a continuous track that runs along over the manure gutters and overhead lengthwise of the feed alleys. There are a number of different kinds of carriers man- MISCELLANEOUS FARM CONVENIENCES 233 uf actured, all of which seem to do good service. The object is to save labor in doing the necessary work about dairy stables. To get the greatest possible profit from cows, it is absolutely necessary that the stable Figure 233. — Bull Nose-Chain. Cross bulls may be turned out to pasture with some degree of safety by snapping a chain like this into the nose-ring. The chain should be just long enough to swing and wrap around the bull's front legs when he is running. Also the length is intended to drag the ring where he will step on it with his front feet. There is some danger of pulling the nose ring out. Figure 234. — Manure Carriers. There are two kinds of manure carriers in general use. The principal difference is the elevator attachment for hoisting when the spreader stands too high for the usual level dump. should be kept clean and sanitary, also that the cows shall be properly fed several times a day. Different kinds of feed are given at the different feeding periods. It is impossible to have all the different kinds of food stored in sufficient quantities within easy reach of the cows. Hence, the necessity of installing some mechani- 234 FARM MECHANICS cal arrangement to fetch and carry. The only floor carrier in use in dairy stables is a truck for silage. Not in every stable is this the case. Sometimes a feed carrier is run directly to the silo. It depends a good deal on the floor what kind of a carrier is best for silage. The advantage of an overhead track is .that it is always free from litter. Where floor trucks are used, it is necessary to keep the floor bare of obstruction. This is not considered a disadvantage because the floor should be kept clean anyway. HOUSE PLUMBING When water is pumped by a,n en- gine and stored for use in a tank to be delivered under pressure in the house, then the additional cost of hot and cold water and the necessary sink and bath room flxtures is compara- tively small. Modem plumbing fix- tures fit so perfectly and go together "^ so easily that the cost of installing Figure 235.— Cow housc plumbing in the country has stanchion. Wooden , x'n j j I'l^i cow stanchions been materially reduced, while the ^mfortabie^for the dangers from noxious gases have been oSIs! ^^ *^^ ''''''' entirely eliminated. Open ventilator pipes carry the poisonous gases up through the roof of the house to float harmlessly away in the atmosphere. Septic tanks take care of the sew- erage better than the sewer systems in some towns. Plumbing fixtures may be cheap or expensive, accord- ing to the wishes and pocketbook of the owner. The MISCELLANEOUS FARM CONVENIENCES 235 cheaper grades are just as useful, but there are expen- sive outfits that are very much more ornamental. FARM SEPTIC TANK Supplying water under pressure in the farmhouse demands a septic tank to get rid of the waste. A septic tank is a scientific receptacle to take the poison out of CPA/IJ^J' HI Figure 236. — Frame for Holding Record Sheets in a Dairy Stable. Figure 237. — Loading Shute for Hogs. This loading shute is made portable and may be moved like a wheelbarrow. sewerage. It is a simple affair consisting of two under- ground compartments, made water-tight, with a sewer pipe to lead the waste water from the house into the first compartment and a drain to carry the denatured sewerage away from the second compartment. The first compartment is open to the atmosphere, through a ventilator, but the second compartment is made as 236 FARM MECHANICS nearly air-tight as possible. The scientific working of a septic tank depends upon the destructive work of two kinds of microscopic life known as aerobic and anarobic forms of bacteria. Sewerage in the first tank is worked over by aerobic bacteria, the kind that require a small amount of oxygen in order to live and carry on their Figure 238. — Brass Valves. Two kinds of globe valves are used in farm waterworks. The straight valve shown to the left and the right angle valve to the right. Either one may be fitted with a long shank to reach above ground when pipes are laid deep to prevent freezing. work. The second compartment is inhabited by anaero- bic bacteria, or forms of microscopic life that work practically without air. The principles of construc- tion require that a septic tank shall be large enough to contain two days ' supply of sewerage in each compart- ment; thus, requiring four days for the sewerage to enter and leave the tank. Estimating 75 gallons daily of sewerage for each in- habitant of the house and four persons to a family, the septic tank should be large enough to hold 600 gallons, MISCELLANEOUS FARM CONVENIENCES 237 three hundred gallons in each compartment, which would require a tank about four feet in width and six feet in length and four feet in depth. These figures embrace more cubic feet of tank than necessary to meet the foregoing requirements. It is a good plan to leave a margin of safety. It is usual to lay a vitrified sewer, four inches in diameter, from below the bottom of the cellar to the \ 'Jl L \ -.%,-;.//';'•••'*»*.•'/.' '. ♦•P H g;;^%v* ' -'<^/j:'^%;.*«;:^'';X. •f '.-! I ' l^yi^ff^^;'^\