Southern Branch of the University of California Los Angeles Form L-l PS 2272 Al v.l his book is DUE on the last date stamped below HAY I MAY 8 1950 Form L-9-10m-3,'27 i 1928 ~~ ' ',.,- n I LJ 'MAIM LOAN DESK !< A.M ! P.M. 5 6 1 -i M 934 N 5C _ r *- < * x - (i. W. WK1-CH. ! [Bookseller & Stationer,? I T l f V' T Wy- THE PROSE WORKS IN TWO VOLUMES VOL. I. OUTRE-MER. DRIFT-WOOD BOSTON HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN AND COMPANY New York: 11 East Seventeenth Street e Pres 1885 Copyright, 1845, 1857, 1866, and 1872, Bv HENRY WADSWORTH LONGFELLOW. Copyright, 1885, BY ERNEST W. LONGFELLOW. All rights reserved. The Riverside Press, Camlrrieige, Mass. : Electrotyped and Printed by H. O. Houghton & Co. OUTRE-MER. PACK THE EPISTLE DEDICATORY 7 THE PILGRIM OF OUTRE-MER .... 9 THE NORMAN DILIGENCE 13 THE GOLDEN LION INN . . . . . 21 MARTIN FRANC AND THE MONK OF ST. ANTHONY 27 THE VILLAGE OF AUTEUIL 48 JACQUELINE 61 THE SEXAGENARIAN .... .71 PERE LA CHAISE 78 THE VALLEY OF THE LOIRE .... 92 THE TROUVERES 108 THE BAPTISM OF FIRE 124 COQ-A-L'ANE 135 THE NOTARY OF P^RIGUEUX . . . . 147 THE JOURNEY INTO SPAIN 160 SPAIN 174 A TAILOR'S DRAWER 182 ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS ..... 196 THE VILLAGE OF EL PARDILLO . . . .221 THE DEVOTIONAL POETRY OF SPAIN . . . 237 iv Contents THE PILGRIM'S BREVIARY ..... 267 THE JOURNEY INTO ITALY ..... 297 ROME IN MIDSUMMER 311 THE VILLAGE OF LA RICCTA .... 334 NOTE-BOOK 353 THE PILGRIM'S SALUTATION 360 COLOPHON . , 363 OUTRE-MER A PILGRIMAGE BEYOND THE SEA I have passed manye landes and manye yles and contrees, and cherched manye fulle straunge places, and have ben in manye a fulle gode honour able companye. Now I am comen home to reste. And thus recordynga the tyme passed, I have fulfilled these thynges and putte hem wryten in this boke, as it woulde come into my niynde. Sir John Maundevillt THE EPISTLE DEDICATORY The cheerful breeze sets fair ; we fill our sail, And scud before it. When the critic starts, And angrily unties his bags of wind, Then we lay to, and let the blast go by. HURDIS. WORTHY AND GENTLE READER, I DEDICATE this little book to thee with many fears and misgivings of heart. Be ing a stranger to thee, and having never admin istered to thy wants nor to thy pleasures, I can ask nothing at thy hands saving the common courtesies of life. Perchance, too, what I have written will be little to thy taste ; for it is little in accordance with the stirring spirit of ^ the present age. If so, I crave thy forbearance , for having thought that even the busiest mind might not be a stranger to those moments of repose, when the clock of time clicks drowsily behind the door, and trifles become the amuse- ment of the wise and great. Besides, what perils await the adventurous author who launches forth into the uncertain current of public favor in so frail a bark as 8 The Epistle Dedicatory this ! The very rocking of the tide may over set him ; or peradventure some freebooting critic, prowling about the great ocean of letters, may descry his strange colors, hail him through a gray goose-quill, and perhaps sink him with out more ado. Indeed, the success of an un known author is as uncertain as the wind. " When a book is first to appear in the world," says a celebrated French writer, " one knows not whom to consult to learn its destiny. The stars preside not over its nativity. Their in fluences have no operation on it ; and the most confident astrologers dare not foretell the di verse risks of fortune it must run." It is from such considerations, worthy reader, that I would fain bespeak thy friendly offices at the outset. But, in asking these, I would not forestall thy good opinion too far, lest in the sequel I should disappoint thy kind wishes. I ask only a welcome and God-speed ; hoping, that, when thou hast read these pages, thou wilt say to me, in the words of Nick Bottom, the weaver, " I shall desire you of more ac quaintance, good Master Cobweb." Very sincerely thine, THE AUTHOR. BSUNSWICK, Maine, 1833. THE PILGRIM OF OUTRE-MER I am a Palmer, as ye se, Whiche of my lyfe muche part have spent In many a fayre and farre cuntrie, As pilgrims do of good intent. THE FOUR Ps. " T YSTENYTH, ye godely gentylmen, and -1 ' all that ben hereyn ! " I am a pilgrim be nighted on my way, and crave a shelter till the storm is over, and a seat by the fireside in this honorable company. As a stranger I claim this courtesy at your hands ; and will repay your hospitable welcome with tales of the countries I have passed through in my pilgrimage. This is a custom of the olden time. In the days of chivalry and romance, every baron bold, perched aloof in his feudal castle, wel comed the stranger to his halls, and listened with delight to the pilgrim's tale and the song of the troubadour. Both pilgrim and trouba dour had their tales of wonder from a distant land, embellished with the magic of Oriental -exaggeration. Their salutation was, io The Pilgrim of Outre-Mer " Lordyng lystnith to my tale, That is meryer than the nightingale." The soft luxuriance of the Eastern clime bloomed in the song of the bard ; and the wild and romantic tales of regions so far off as to be regarded as almost a fairy land were well suited to the childish credulity of an age when what is now called the Old World was in its child hood. Those times have passed away. The world has grown wiser and less credulous ; and the tales which then delighted delight no longer. But man has not changed his nature. He still retains the same curiosity, the same love of novelty, the same fondness for romance and tales by the chimney-corner, and the same desire of wearing out the rainy day and the long winter evening with the illusions of fancy and the fairy sketches of the poet's imagina* tion. It is as true now as ever, that "Off talys, and tryfulles, many man tellys ; Sume byn trew, and sume byn ellis ; A man may dryfe forthe the day that long tyme dwellis Wyth harpyng, and pipyng, and other mery spellis, Wyth gle, and wyth game." The Pays d'Outre-Mer, or the Land beyond the Sea, is a name by which the pilgrims and crusaders of old usually designated the Holy The Pilgrim of Outre-Mer 1 1 Land. I, too, in a certain sense, have been a pilgrim of Outre-Mer ; for to my youthful im agination the Old World was a kind of Holy Land, lying afar off beyond the blue horizon of the ocean ; and when its shores first rose upon my sight, looming through the hazy at mosphere of the sea, my heart swelled with the deep emotions of the pilgrim, when he sees afar the spire which rises above the shrine of his devotion. In this my pilgrimage, " I have passed many lands and countries, and searched many full strange places." I have traversed France from Normandy to Navarre ; smoked my pipe in a Flemish inn ; floated through Holland in a Trekschuit ; trimmed my midnight lamp in a German university ; wandered and mused amid the classic scenes of Italy ; and listened to the gay guitar and merry castanet on the borders of the blue Guadalquivir. The recollection of many of the scenes I have passed through is still fresh in my mind ; while the memory of others is fast fading away, or is blotted out for ever. But now I will stay the too busy hand of time, and call back the shadowy past. Per chance the old and the wise may accuse me of frivolity ; but I see in this fair company the 12 The Pilgrim of Outre-Mer bright eye and listening ear of youth, an age less rigid in its censure and more willing to be pleased. " To gentlewomen and their loves is consecrated all the wooing language, allusions to love-passions, and sweet embracements feigned by the Muse 'mongst hills and rivers ; whatsoever tastes of description, battel, story, abstruse antiquity, and law of the kingdome, to the more severe critic. To the one be con tenting enjoyments of their auspicious desires ; to the other, a happy attendance of their chosen Muses." * And now, fair dames and courteous gentle men, give me attentive audience : " Lordyng lystnith to my tale, That is meryer than the nightingale." * Selden's Prefatory Discourse to the Notes in Drayton's Poly-Olbion. THE NORMAN DILIGENCE The French guides, otherwise called the postilians, have one mst diabolical! custome in their travelling upon the wayes. Diabolicall it may be well called ; for, whensoever their horses doe a little anger them, they will say, in their fury, Allans, diable, that is, Go, thou divel. This I know by mine own experience. CORYAT'S CRUDITIES. IT was early in the " leafy month of June " that I travelled through the beautiful prov ince of Normandy. As France was the first foreign country I visited, everything wore an air of freshness and novelty, which pleased my eye, and kept my fancy constantly busy. Life was like a dream. It was a luxury to breathe again the free air, after having been so long cooped up at sea ; and, like a long-imprisoned bird let loose from its cage, I revelled in the freshness and sunshine of the morning land scape. On every side, valley and hill were covered with a carpet of soft velvet green. The birds were singing merrily in the trees, and the land scape wore that look of gayety so well described in the quaint language of an old romance, mak- 14 The Norman Diligence ing the " sad, pensive, and aching heart to re joice, and to throw off mourning and sadness." Here and there a cluster of chestnut-trees shaded a thatch-roofed cottage, and little patches of vineyard were scattered on the slope of the hills, mingling their delicate green with the deep hues of the early summer grain. The whole landscape had a fresh, breezy look. It was not hedged, in from the highways, but lay open to the eye of the traveller, and seemed to welcome him with open arms. I felt less a stranger in the land ; and as my eye traced the dusty road winding along through a rich culti vated country, skirted on either side with blossoming fruit-trees, and occasionally caught glimpses of a little farm-house resting in a green hollow and lapped in the bosom of plenty, I felt that I was in a prosperous, hospitable, and happy land. I had taken my seat on top of the diligence, in order to have a better view of the country. It was one of those ponderous vehicles which totter slowly along the paved roads of France, laboring beneath a mountain of trunks and bales of all descriptions ; and, like the Trojan horse, bearing a groaning multitude within it. It was a curious and cumbersome machine, re- The Norman Diligence 15 sembling the bodies of three coaches placed upon one carriage, with a cabriolet on top for outside passengers. On the panels of each door were painted the fleurs-de-lis of France, and upon the side of the coach, emblazoned in golden characters, " Exploitation Generale des Messageries Royales des Diligences pour le Havre, Rouen, et Parish It would be useless to describe the motley groups that filled the four quarters of this little world. There was the dusty tradesman, with green coat and cotton umbrella ; the sallow invalid, in skullcap and cloth shoes ; the priest in his cassock ; the peasant in his frock ; and a whole family of squalling children. My fel low-travellers on top were a gay subaltern, with fierce mustache, and a nut-brown village beauty of sweet sixteen. The subaltern wore a mil itary undress, and a little blue cloth cap, in the shape of a cow-bell, trimmed smartly with sil ver lace, and cocked on one side of his head. The brunette was decked out with a staid white Norman cap, nicely starched and plaited, and nearly three feet high, a rosary and cross about her neck, a linsey-woolsey gown, and wooden shoes. The personage who seemed to rule this little 1 6 The Norman Diligence world with absolute sway was a short, pursy man, with a busy, self-satisfied air, and the sonorous title of Monsieur le Conducteur. As insignia of office, he wore a little round fur cap and fur-trimmed jacket ; and carried in his hand a small leathern portfolio, containing his way-bill. He sat with us on top of the dili gence, and with comic gravity issued his man dates to the postilion below, like some petty monarch speaking from his throne. In every dingy village we thundered through, he had a thousand commissions to execute and to re ceive ; a package to throw out on this side, and another to take in on that ; a whisper for the landlady at the inn ; a love-letter and a kiss for her daughter ; and a wink or a snap of his fingers for the chambermaid at the window. Then there were so many questions to be asked and answered, while changing horses ! Every body had a word to say. It was Monsieur le Conducteur! here; Monsieur le Conducteiir ! there. He was in complete bustle ; till at length crying, En route ! he ascended the dizzy height, and we lumbered away in a cloud of dust. But what most attracted my attention was the grotesque appearance of the postilion and the horses, He was a comical-looking little The Norman Diligence 17 fellow, already past the heyday of life, with a thin, sharp countenance, to which the smoke of tobacco and the fumes of wine had given the dusty look of parchment. He was equipped in a short jacket of purple velvet, set off with a red collar, and adorned with silken cord. Tight breeches of bright yellow leather arrayed his pipe-stem legs, which were swallowed up in a huge pair of wooden boots, iron-fastened, and armed with long, rattling spurs. His shirt-collar was of vast dimensions, and be tween it and the broad brim of his high, bell- crowned, varnished hat, projected an eel-skin queue, with a little tuft of frizzled hair, like a powder-puff, at the end, bobbing up and down with the motion of the rider, and scattering a white cloud around him. The horses which drew the diligence were harnessed to it with ropes and leather thongs, in the most uncouth manner imaginable. They were five in number, black, white, and gray, as various in size as in color. Their tails were braided and tied up with wisps of straw ; and when the postilion mounted and cracked his heavy whip, off they started : one pulling this way, another that, one on the gallop, another trotting, and the rest dragging along at a scram- 1 8 The Norman Diligence bling pace, between a trot and a walk. No sooner did the vehicle get comfortably in mo tion, than the postilion, throwing the reins upon his horse's neck, and drawing a flint and steel from one pocket and a short-stemmed pipe from another, leisurely struck fire, and began to smoke. Ever and anon some part of the rope-harness would give way ; Monsieur le. Conducteur from on high would thunder forth an oath or two ; a head would be popped out at every window ; half a dozen voices exclaim at once, " What 's the matter ? " and the pos tilion, apostrophizing the diable as usual, would thrust his long whip into the leg of his boot, leisurely dismount, and, drawing a handful of packthread from his pocket, quietly set himself to mend matters in the best way possible. In this manner we toiled slowly along the dusty highway. Occasionally the scene was enlivened by a group of peasants, driving before them a little ass, laden with vegetables for a neighboring market. Then we would pass a solitary shepherd, sitting by the road-side, with a shaggy dog at his feet, guarding his flock, and making his scanty meal on the contents of his wallet ; or perchance a little peasant girl, in wooden shoes, leading a cow by a cord at- The Norman Diligence 19 tached to her horns, to browse along the side of the ditch. Then we would all alight to as cend some formidable hill on foot, and be es corted up by a clamorous group of sturdy mendicants, annoyed by the ceaseless impor tunity of worthless beggary, or moved to pity by the palsied limbs of the aged, and the sight less eyeballs of the blind. Occasionally, too, the postilion drew up in front of a dingy little cabaret, completely over shadowed by wide-spreading trees. A lusty grape-vine clambered up beside the door ; and a pine-bough was thrust out from a hole in the wall, by way of tavern-bush. Upon the front of the house was generally inscribed in large black letters, " Ici ON DONNE A BOIRE ET A MANGER ; ON LOGE A PIED ET A CHEVAL " J a sign which may be thus paraphrased, " Good entertainment for man and beast " ; but which was once translated by a foreigner, " Here they give to eat and drink ; they lodge on foot and on horseback ! " Thus one object of curiosity succeeded an other ; hill, valley, stream, and woodland flitted by me like the shifting scenes of a magic lan tern, and one train of thought gave place to another ; till at length, in the after part of the 2O The Norman Diligence day, we entered the broad and shady avenue of fine old trees which leads to the western gate of Rouen, and a few moments afterward were lost in the crowds and confusion of ita narrow streets. THE GOLDEN LION INN Monsieur Vinot. Je veux absolument un Lion 1'Or ; parce qu'on dit, Ou allez-vous? Au Lion d'Or ! D'ou venez-vous? Du Lion d'Or ! Ou irons-nous ? Au Lion d'Or ! Ou y a-t-il de bon vin ? Au Lion d'Or ! LA ROSE ROUGE. THIS answer of Monsieur Vinot must have been running in my head as the diligence stopped at the Messagerie ; for when the por ter, who took my luggage, said : " Ou allez-vous, Monsieur ? " I answered, without reflection (for, be it said with all the veracity of a traveller, at that time I did not know there was a Golden Lion in the city), "Au Lion d'Or." And so to the Lion d'Or we went. The hostess of the Golden Lion received me with a courtesy and a smile, rang the house- bell for a servant, and told him to take the gentleman's things to number thirty-five. I followed him up stairs. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven ! Seven stories high, by Our Lady ! I counted them every one ; and when 22 The Golden Lion Inn I went down to remonstrate, I counted them again ; so that there was no possibility of a mistake. When I asked for a lower room, the hostess told me the house was full ; and when I spoke of going to another hotel, she said she should be so very sorry, so dfeolee, to have Monsieur leave her, that I marched up again to number thirty-five. After finding all the fault I could with the chamber, I ended, as is generally the case with most men on such occasions, by being very well pleased with it. The only thing I could possi bly complain of was my being lodged in the seventh story, and in the immediate neighbor hood of a gentleman who was learning to play the French horn. But to remunerate me for these disadvantages, my window looked down into a market-place, and gave me a distant view of the towers of the cathedral, and the ruins of the church and abbey of St. Ouen. When I had fully prepared myself for a ram ble through the city, it was already sunset ; and after the heat and dust of the day, the freshness of the long evening twilight was de lightful. When I enter a new city, I cannot rest till I have satisfied the first cravings of curiosity by rambling through its streets. Nor The Golden Lion Inn 23 can I endure a cicerone, with his eternal " This way, Sir." I never desire to be led directly to an object worthy of a traveller's notice, but prefer a thousand times to find my own way, and come upon it by surprise. This was par ticularly the case at Rouen. It was the first European city of importance that I visited. There was an air of antiquity about the whole city that breathed of the Middle Ages ; and so strong and delightful was the impression that it made upon my youthful imagination, that nothing which I afterward saw could either equal or efface it. I have since passed through that city, but I did not stop. I was unwilling to destroy an impression which, even at this distant day, is as fresh upon my mind as if it were of yesterday. With these delightful feelings I rambled on from street to street, till at length, after thread ing a narrow alley, I unexpectedly came out in front of the magnificent cathedral. If it had suddenly risen from the earth, the effect could not have been more powerful and instantane ous. It completely overwhelmed my imagina tion ; and I stood for a long time motionless, gazing entranced upon the stupendous edifice. I had before seen no specimen of Gothic archi- 24 The Golden Lion Inn tecture ; and the massive towers before me, the lofty windows of stained glass, the low portal, with its receding arches and rude statues, all produced upon my untravelled mind an im pression of awful sublimity. When I entered the church, the impression was still more deep and solemn. It was the hour of vespers. The religious twilight of the place, the lamps that burned on the distant altar, the kneeling crowd, the tinkling bell, and the chant of the evening service that rolled along the vaulted roof in broken and repeated echoes, filled me with new and intense emotions. When I gazed on the stupendous architecture of the church, the huge columns that the eye followed up till they were lost in the gathering dusk of the arches above, the long and shadowy aisles, the statues of saints and martyrs that stood in every recess, the figures of armed knights upon the tombs, the uncertain light that stole through the painted windows of each little chapel, and the form of the cowled and solitary monk, kneeling at the shrine of his favorite saint, or passing between the lofty columns of the church, all I had read of, but had not seen, I was transported back to the Dark Ages, and felt as I can never feel again. The Golden Lion Inn 25 On the following day, I visited the remains of an old palace, built by Edward the Third, now occupied as the Palais de Justice, and the ruins of the church and monastery of Saint Antoine. I saw the hole in the tower where the ponderous bell of the abbey fell through ; and took a peep at the curious illuminated manuscript of Daniel d'Aubonne in the pub lic library. The remainder of the morning was spent in visiting the ruins of the ancient abbey of St. Ouen, which is now transformed into the Hotel de Ville, and in strolling through its beautiful gardens, dreaming of the present and the past, and given up to " a melancholy of my own." At the Table rment me so ; But rather than all tnooghts forego Of the fair With flaxen hair, Give me back her frowns again. " Hark ! hark ! Pretty lark ! Little heedest thou my pain ! " Besides the " woful ballad made to his mi tress's eyebrow," the early lyric poet frequent ly indulges in more calmly analyzing the philosophy of love, or in questioning the ob ject and destination of a sigh. Occasionally these quaint conceits are prettily expressed, and the little song flutters through the page like a butterfly. The following is an ex ample : " And whither goest thou, gentle sigh, Breathed so softly in my ear? Say, dost thou bear his fate severe To Love's poor martyr doomed to die ? The Trouveres 119 Come, tell me quickly, do not lie ; What secret message bring'st thou here? And whither goest thou, gentle sigh, Breathed so softly in my ear ? * May Heaven conduct thee to thy will, And safely speed thee on thy way ; This only I would humbly pray, Pierce deep, but O ! forbear to kill. And whither goest thou, gentle sigh, Breathed so softly in my ear ? " The ancient lyric poets of France are gen erally jpoken of as a class, and their beau ties and defects referred to them collectively, and not individually. In truth, there are few characteristic marks by which any individual author can be singled out and ranked above the rest. The lyric poets of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries stand upon nearly the same level. But in the fifteenth century there were two who surpassed all their con temporaries in the beauty and delicacy of their sentiments ; and in the sweetness of their diction, and the structure of their verse, stand far in advance of the age in which they lived. These are Charles d'Orleans and Clo- tilde de Surville. Charles, Duke of Orleans, the father of Louis the Twelfth, and uncle of Francis 1 20 The Trouveres the First, was born in 1391. In the general tenor of his life, the peculiar character of his mind, and his talent for poetry, there is a striking resemblance between this noble poet and James the First of Scotland, his con temporary. Both were remarkable for learn ing and refinement ; both passed a great por tion of their lives in sorrow and imprisonment ; and both cheered the solitude of their prison- walls with the charms of poetry. Charles d'Orleans was taken prisoner at the battle of Agincourt, in 1415, and carried into England, where he remained twenty-five years in cap tivity. It was there that he composed the greater part of his poetry. The poems of this writer exhibit a singular delicacy of thought and sweetness of expres^ sion. The following little Renouveaux, or songs on the return of spring, are full of delicacy and beauty. "Now Time throws off his cloak again Of ermined frost, and wind, and rain, And clothes him in the embroidery Of glittering sun and clear blue sky. With beast and bird the forest rings, Each in his jargon cries or sings ; And Time throws off his cloak again Of ermined frost, and wind, and rain. The Trouveres 121 " River, and fount, and tinkling brook Wear in their dainty livery Drops of silver jewelry ; In new-made suit they merry look ; And Time throws off his cloak again Of ermined frost, and wind, and rain. " The second upon the same subject presents a still more agreeable picture of the departure of winter and the return of spring. " Gentle spring ! in sunshine clad, Well dost thou thy power display ! For winter maketh the light heart sad, And thou, thou makest the sad heart gay. He sees thee, and calls to his gloomy train, The sleet, and the snow, and the wind, and the rain ; And they shrink away, and they flee in fear, When thy merry step draws near. *' Winter giveth the fields and the trees so old Their beards of icicles and snow ; And the rain, it raineth so fast and cold, We must cower over the embers low ; And, snugly housed from the wind and weather, Mope like birds that are changing feather. But the storm retires, and the sky grows clear, When thy merry step draws near. " Winter maketh the sun in the gloomy sky Wrap him round in a mantle of cloud ; But, Heaven be praised, thy step is nigh ; Thou tearest away the mournful shroud, 6 122 The Trouveres And the earth looks bright, and winter surly, Who has toiled for naught both late and early, Is banished afar by the new-born year, When thy merry step draws near. " The only person of that age who can dispute the laurel with Charles d'Orleans is Clotilde de Surville. This poetess was born in the Bas -Vivarais, in the year 1405. Her style is singularly elegant and correct ; and the reader who will take the trouble to decipher her rude provincial orthography will find her writings full of quiet beauty. The following lines, which breathe the very soul of maternal ten derness, are part of a poem to her first-born. " Sweet babe ! true portrait of thy father's face, Sleep on the bosom that thy lips have pressed ! Sleep, little one ; and closely, gently place Thy drowsy eyelid on thy mother's breast ! " Upon that tender eye, my little friend, Soft sleep shall come that cometh not to me ! I watch to see thee, nourish thee, defend ; 'T is sweet to watch for thee, alone for thee ! " His arms fall down ; sleep sits upon his brow ; His eye is closed ; he sleeps, how still and calm 1 Wore not his cheek the apple's ruddy glow, Would you not say he slept on Death's cold arm ? " Awake, my boy ! I tremble with affright ! Awake, and chase this fatal thought ! unclose Thine eye but for one moment on the light ! Even at the price of thine, give me repose ! The Trouvtres 123 ' Sweet error ! he but slept ; I breathe again ; Come, gentle dreams, the hour of sleep beguile ! O, when shall he for whom I sigh in vain Beside me watch to see thy waking smile ? " But upon this theme I have written enough, perhaps too much. " 'This may be poetry, for aught I know,' Says an old, worthy friend of mine, while leaning Over my shoulder as I write, ' although I can 't exactly comprehend its meaning.' " I have touched upon the subject before me in a brief and desultory manner, and have purposely left my remarks unencumbered by learned reference and far-sought erudition ; for these are ornaments which would ill become so trivial a pen as this wherewith I write, though, perchance, the want of them will render my essay unsatisfactory to the scholar and the critic. But I am emboldened thus to skim with a light wing over this poetic lore of the past, by the reflection, that the greater part of my readers belong not to that grave and seri ous class who love the deep wisdom which lies in quoting from a quaint, forgotten tome, and who are ready on all occasions to say, " Com mend me to the owl ! " THE BAPTISM OF FIRE The more you mow us down, the thicker we rise ; the Christian blood you spill is like the seed you sow, it springs from the earth again and fructifies the more. TERTULLIAN. AS day was drawing to a close, and the rays of the setting sun climbed slowly up the dungeon wall, the prisoner sat and read in a tome with silver clasps. He was a man in the vigor of his days, with a pale and noble countenance, that wore less the marks of worldly care than of high and holy thought. His temples were already bald ; but a thick and curling beard bespoke the strength of manhood ; and his eye, dark, full, and elo quent, beamed with all the enthusiasm of a martyr. The book before him was a volume of the early Christian Fathers. He was reading the Apologetic of the eloquent Tertullian, the old est and ablest writer of the Latin Church. At times he paused, and raised his eyes to heaven as if in prayer, and then read on again in The Baptism of Fire 125 silence. At length a passage seemed to touch his inmost soul. He read aloud : " Give us, then, what names you please ; from the instruments of cruelty you torture us by, call us Sarmenticians and Semaxians, because you fasten us to trunks of trees, and stick us about with fagots to set us on fire ; yet let me tell you, when we are thus begirt and dressed about with fire, we are then in our most illustrious apparel. These are our victorious palms and robes of glory ; and, mounted on our funeral pile, we look upon our selves as in our triumphal chariot. No won der, then, such passive heroes please not those they vanquish with such conquering suffer ings. And therefore we pass for men of de spair, and violently bent upon our own de struction. However, what you are pleased to call madness and despair in us are the very actions which, under virtue's standard, lift up your sons of fame and glory, and emblazon them to future ages." He arose and paced the dungeon to and fro, with folded arms and a firm step. His thoughts held communion with eternity. " Father which art in heaven ! " he ex claimed, "give me strength to die like those 12 6 The Baptism of Fire holy men of old, who scorned to purchase life at the expense of truth. That truth has made me free ; and though condemned on earth, I know that I am absolved in heaven ! " He again seated himself at his table, and read in that tome with silver clasps. This solitary prisoner was Anne Du Bourg, a man who feared not man ; once a merciful judge in that august tribunal upon whose voice hung the life and death of those who were persecuted for conscience' sake, he was now himself an accused, a convicted heretic, condemned to the Baptism of Fire, because he would not unrighteously condemn others. He had dared to plead the cause of suffering hu manity before that dread tribunal, and, in the presence of the king himself, to declare that it was an offence to the majesty of God to shed man's blood in his name. Six weary months from June to December he had lain a prisoner in that dungeon, from which a death by fire was soon to set him free. Such was the clemency of Henry the Second ! As the prisoner read, his eyes were filled with tears. He still gazed upon the printed page, but it was a blank before his eyes. His thoughts were far away amid the scenes of his The Baptism of Fire 127 childhood, amid the green valleys of Riom and the. Golden Mountains of Auvergne. Some simple word had called up the vision of the past. He was a child again. He was playing with the pebbles of the brook, he was shout ing to the echo of the hills, he was praying at his mother's knee, with his little hands clasped in hers. This dream of childhood was broken by the grating of bolts and bars, as the jailer opened his prison-door. A moment afterward, his for mer colleague, De Harley, stood at his side. " Thou here ! " exclaimed the prisoner, sur prised at the visit. " Thou in the dungeon of a heretic ! On what errand hast thou come ? " " On an errand of mercy," replied De Har ley. "I come to tell thee " " That the hour of my death draws near ? " " That thou mayst still be saved." " Yes ; if I will bear false witness against my God, barter heaven for earth, an eter nity for a few brief days of worldly existence. Lost, thou shouldst say, lost, not saved ! " " No ! saved ! " cried De Harley with warmth ; " saved from a death of shame and an eternity of woe ! Renounce this false doctrine, this abominable heresy, and return again to the 128 The Baptism of Fire bosom of the church which thou dost rend with strife and dissension." " God judge between thee and me, which has embraced the truth." " His hand already smites thee." " It has fallen more heavily upon those who so unjustly persecute me. Where is the king ? he who said that with his own eyes he would behold me perish at the stake ? he to whom the undaunted Du Faur cried, like Eli jah to Ahab, ' It is thou who troublest Israel! ' Where is the king ? Called, through a sud den and violent death, to the judgment-seat of Heaven ! Where is Minard, the persecutor of the just? Slain by the hand of an assas sin ! It was not without reason that I said to him, when standing before my accusers, ' Tremble ! believe the word of one who is about to appear before God ; thou likewise shalt stand there soon, thou that sheddest the blood of the children of peace.' He has gone to his account before me." " And that menace has hastened thine own condemnation. Minard was slain by the Hu guenots, and it is whispered that thou wast privy to his death." "This, at least, might have been spared a The Baptism of Fire 129 dying man ! " replied the prisoner, much agi tated by so unjust and so unexpected an accu sation. " As I hope for mercy hereafter, I am innocent of the blood of this man, and of all knowledge of so foul a crime. But, tell me, hast thou come here only to embitter my last hours with such an accusation as this ? If so, I pray thee, leave me. My moments are pre cious. I would be alone." " I came to offer thee life, freedom, and hap piness." " Life, freedom, happiness ! At the price thou hast set upon them, I scorn them all ! Had the apostles and martyrs of the early Christian Church listened to such paltry bribes as these, where were now the faith in which we trust ? These holy men of old shall answer for me. Hear what Justin Martyr says, in his earnest appeal to Antonine the Pious, in behalf of the Christians who in nis day were unjustly loaded with public odium and oppression." He opened the volume before him and read : " I could wish you would take this also into consideration, that what we say is really for your own good ; for it is in our power at any 1 30 ~I'ke Baptism of Fire time to escape your torments by denying the faith, when you question us about it : but we scorn to purchase life at the expense of a lie ; for our souls are winged with a desire of a life of eternal duration and purity, of an immediate conversation with God, the Father and Maker of all things. We are in haste to be confess ing and finishing our faith ; being fully per suaded that we shall arrive at this blessed state, if we approve ourselves to God by our works, and by our obedience express our pas sion for that divine life which is never inter rupted by any clashing evil." The Catholic and the Huguenot reasoned long and earnestly together ; but they rea soned in vain. Each was firm in his belief; and they parted to meet no more on earth. On the following day, Du Bourg was sum moned before his judges to receive his final sentence. He heard it unmoved, and with a prayer to God that he would pardon those who had condemned him according to their consciences. He then addressed his judges in an oration full of power and eloquence. It closed with these words : " And now, ye judges, if, indeed, you hold the sword of God as ministers of his wrath, to The Baptism of Fire 131 take vengeance upon those who do evil, be ware, I charge you, beware how you condemn us. Consider well what evil we have done ; and, before all things, decide whether it be just that we should listen unto you rather than unto God. Are you so drunken with the wine-cup of the great sorceress, that you drink poison for nourishment ? Are you not those who make the people sin, by turning them away from the service of God ? And if you regard more the opinion of men than that of Heaven, in what esteem are you held by other nations, and principalities, and powers, for the martyrdoms you have caused in obe dience to this blood-stained Phalaris ? God grant, thou cruel tyrant, that by thy miserable death thou mayst put an end to our groans ! " Why weep ye ? What means this delay ? Your hearts are heavy within you, your consciences are haunted by the judgment of God. And thus it is that the condemned re joice in the fires you have kindled, and think they never live better than in the midst of consuming flames. Torments affright them not, insults enfeeble them not ; their honor is redeemed by death, he that dies is the conqueror, and the conquered he that mourns. 132 The Baptism of Fire " No ! whatever snares are spread for us, whatever suffering we endure, you cannot separate us from the love of Christ. Strike, then, slay, grind us to powder ! Those that die in the Lord shall live again ; we shall all be raised together. Condemn me as you will, I am a Christian ; yes, I am a Chris tian, and am ready to die for the glory of our Lord, for the truth of the Evangelists. " Quench, then, your fires ! Let the wicked abandon his way, and return unto the Lord, and he will have compassion on him. Live, be happy, and meditate on God, ye judges ! As for me, I go rejoicing to my death. What wait ye for ? Lead me to the scaffold ! " They bound the prisoner's hands, and, leading him forth from the council-chamber, placed him upon the cart that was to bear him to the Place de Greve. Before and be hind marched a guard of five hundred sol diers ; for Du Bourg was beloved by the peo ple, and a popular tumult was apprehended. The day was overcast and sad ; and ever and anon the sound of the tolling bell mingled its dismal clang with the solemn notes of the funeral march. They soon reached the place of execution, which was already filled with a The Baptism of Fire 133 dense and silent crowd. In the centre stood the gallows, with a pile of fagots beneath it, and the executioner with a burning torch in his hand. But this funeral apparel inspired no terror in the heart of Du Bourg. A look of triumph beamed from his eye, and his coun tenance shone like that of an angel. With his own hands he divested himself of his outer garments, and, gazing round upon the breath less and sympathizing crowd, exclaimed, " My friends, I come not hither as a thief or a murderer ; but it is for the Gospel's sake ! " A cord was then fastened round his waist, and he was drawn up into the air. At the same moment the burning torch of the execu tioner was applied to the fagots beneath, and the thick volumes of smoke concealed the martyr from the horror-stricken crowd. One stifled groan arose from all that vast multitude, like the moan of the sea, and all was hushed again ; save the crackling of the fagots, and at intervals the funeral knell, that smote the very soul. The quivering flames darted upward and around ; and an agonizing cry broke from the murky cloud, " My God ! my God ! forsake me not, that I forsake not thee ! " ,* ,*,,..' 134 The Baptism of Fire The wind lifted the reddening smoke like a veil, and the form of the martyr was seen to fall into the fire beneath. In a moment it rose again, its garments all in flame ; and again the faint, half : smothered cry of agony was heard, " My God ! my God ! forsake me not, that I forsake not thee ! " Once more the quivering body descended in to the flames ; and once more it was lifted into the air, a blackened, burning cinder. Again and again this fiendish mockery of baptism was repeated ; till the martyr, with a despair ing, suffocating voice, exclaimed, " O God ! I cannot die ! " The executioner came forward, and, either in mercy to the dying man or through fear of the populace, threw a noose over his neck, and strangled the almost lifeless victim. At the same moment the cord which held the body was loosened, and it fell into the fire to rise no more. And thus was consummated the martyrdom of the Baptism of Fire. Los COQ-A-L'ANE My brain, methinks, is like an hour-glass, Wherein ray imaginations run like sands, Filling up time ; but then are turned, and turned, So that I know not what to stay upon And less to put in art. BEN JONSON. A RAINY and gloomy winter was jusi drawing to its close, when I left Paris for the South of France. We started at sunrise ; and as we passed along the solitary streets of the vast and silent metropolis, drowsily one by one its clanging horologes chimed the hour of six. Beyond the city gates the wide landscape was covered with a silvery network of frost ; a wreath of vapor overhung the windings of the Seine ; and every twig and shrub, with its sheath of crystal, flashed in the level rays of the rising sun. The sharp, frosty air seemed to quicken the sluggish blood of the old postil ion and his horses ; a fresh team stood ready in harness at each stage ; and notwithstanding the slippery pavement of the causeway, the long and tedious climbing of the hillside, and 1 36 Coq-a-rAne the equally long and tedious descent with chained wheels and the drag, just after night fall the lumbering vehicle of Vincent Caillard stopped at the gateway of the " Three Empe rors," in the famous city of Orleans. I cannot pride myself much upon being a good travelling-companion, for the rocking of a coach always lulls me into forgetfulness of the present ; and no sooner does the hollow, mo notonous rumbling of the wheels reach my ear, than, like Nick Bottom, " I have an expo sition of sleep come upon me." It is not, however, the deep, sonorous slumber of a la borer, "stuffed with distressful bread," but a kind of day-dream, wherein the creations of fancy seem realities, and the real world, which swims dizzily before the half-shut, drowsy eye, becomes mingled with the imaginary world within. This is doubtless a very great failing in a traveller ; and I confess, with all humility, that at times the line of demarcation between truth and fiction is rendered thereby so indefi nite and indistinct, that I cannot always de termine, with unerring certainty, whether an event really happened to me, or whether I only dreamed it. On this account I shall not attempt a de- Coq-a-l'Ane 137 tailed description of my journey from Paris to Bordeaux. I was travelling like a bird of pas sage ; and five weary days and four weary nights I was on the way. The diligence stopped only to change horses, and for the travellers to take their meals ; and by night I slept with my head under my wing in a snug corner of the coach. Strange as it may appear to some of my readers, this night-travelling is at times far from being disagreeable ; nay, if the country is flat and uninteresting, and you are favored with a moon, it may be very pleasant. As the night advances, the conversation around you gradually dies away, and is imperceptibly given up to some garrulous traveller who finds himself belated in the midst of a long story ; and when at length he puts out his feelers in the form of a question, discovers, by the si lence around him, that the breathless attention of his audience is owing to their being asleep. All is now silent. You let down the window of the carriage, and the fresh night-air cools your flushed and burning cheek. The land scape, th^agh in reality dull and uninteresting, seems beautiful as it floats by in the soft moonshine. Every ruined hovel is changed 138 Coq-a-l'Ane by the magic of night to a trim cottage, every straggling and dilapidated hamlet becomes as beautiful as those we read of in poetry and ro mance. Over the lowland hangs a silver mist ; over the hills peep the twinkling stars. The keen night-air is a spur to the postilion and his horses. In the words of the German bal lad, " Halloo ! halloo ! away they go, Unheeding wet or dry, And horse and rider snort and blow, And sparkling pebbles fly. And all on which the moon doth shine Behind them flees afar, And backward sped, scud overhead, The sky and every star. " Anon you stop at the relay. The drowsy hostler crawls out of the stable-yard ; a few gruff words and strange oaths pass between him and the postilion, then there is a coarse joke in patois, of which you understand the ribaldry only, and which is followed by a husky laugh, a sound between a hiss and a growl ; and then you are off again in a crack. Occasionally a way-traveller is un caged, and a new-comer takes the vacant perch at your elbow. Meanwhile your busy fancy speculates upon all these things, and you fall asleep amid its thousand vagaries. Soon you wake again and snuff the morning air. It was but a moment, and yet the night is gone. The gray of twilight steals into the window, and gives a ghastly look to the coun tenances of the sleeping group around you. One sits bolt upright in a corner, offending none, and stiff and motionless as an Egyptian mummy ; another sits equally straight and im movable, but snores like a priest ; the head of a third is dangling over his shoulder, and the tassel of his nightcap tickles his neighbor's ear ; a fourth has lost his hat, his wig is awry, and his under-lip hangs lolling about like an idiot's. The whole scene is a living caricature of man, presenting human nature in some of the grotesque attitudes she assumes when that pragmatical schoolmaster, Propriety, has fallen asleep in his chair, and the unruly members of his charge are freed from the thraldom of the rod. On leaving Orleans, instead of following the great western mail-route through Tours, Poi tiers, and Angouleme, and thence on to Bor deaux, I struck across the departments of the Indre, Haute-Vienne, and the Dordogne, pass ing through the provincial capitals of Chateau- 140 Coq-a-l'Ane roux, Limoges, and Perigueux. South of the Loire the country assumes a more mountain ous aspect, and the landscape is broken by long sweeping hills and fertile valleys. Many a fair scene invites the traveller's foot to pause ; and his eye roves with delight over the pictu resque landscape of the valley of the Creuse, and the beautiful highland scenery near Perigueux. There are also many objects of art and anti quity which arrest his attention. Argenton boasts its Roman amphitheatre, and the ruins of an old castle built by King Pepin ; at Cha- lus the tower beneath which Richard Coeur- de-Lion was slain is still pointed out to the curious traveller ; and Perigueux is full of crumbling monuments of the Middle Ages. Scenes like these, and the constant chatter of my fellow-travellers, served to enliven the tedium of a long and fatiguing journey. The French are pre-eminently a talking people ; and every new object afforded a topic for light and animated discussion. The affairs of church and state were, however, the themes oftenest touched upon. The bill for the suppression of the liberty of the press was then under discus sion in the Chamber of Peers, and excited the most lively interest through the whole king- Coq-a-l'Ane 141 dom. Of course it was a subject not likely to be forgotten in a stage-coach. " Ah ! mon Dieu ! " said a brisk little man, with snow-white hair and a blazing red face, at the same time drawing up his shoulders to a level with his ears ; " the ministry are de termined to carry their point at all events. They mean to break down the liberty of the press, cost what it will." " If they succeed," added the person who sat opposite, "we may thank the Jesuits for it. It is all their work. They rule the mind of our imbecile monarch, and it is their miserable policy to keep the people in darkness." "No doubt of that," rejoined the first speak er. "Why, no longer ago than yesterday I read in the Figaro that a printer had been prosecuted for publishing the moral lessons of the Evangelists without the miracles." " Is it possible ? " said I. " And are the people so stupid as thus patiently to offer their shoulders to the pack-saddle ? " " Most certainly not ! We shall have an other revolution." "If history speaks true, you have had rev olutions enough, during the last century or two, to satisfy the most mercurial nation on 142 Coq-a-VAne. earth. You have hardly been quiet a moment since the day of the Barricades and the mem orable war of \hepots-de-chambre in the times of the Grand Conde." "You are pleased to speak lightly of our revolutions, sir," rejoined the politician, grow ing warm. " You must, however, confess that each successive one has brought us nearer to our object. Old institutions, whose founda tions lie deep in the prejudices of a great na tion, are not to be toppled down by the spring ing of a single mine. You must confess, too, that our national character is much improved since the days you speak of. The youth of the present century are not so frivolous as those of the last. They have no longer that unbounded levity and light-heartedness so gen erally ascribed to them. From this circum stance we have everything to hope. Our revo lutions, likewise, must necessarily change their character and secure to us more solid advan tages than heretofore." " Luck makes pluck, as the Germans say. You go on bravely ; but it gives me pain to see religion and the church so disregarded." " Superstition and the church, you mean," said the gray-headed man. " Why, sir, the Coq-a-VAne 143 church is nothing now-a-days but a tumble down, dilapidated tower for rooks and daws, and such silly birds, to build their nests in 1 " It was now very evident that I had un earthed a radical ; and there is no knowing when his harangue would have ended, had not his voice been drowned by the noise of the wheels, as we entered the paved street of the city of Limoges. A breakfast of boiled capon stuffed with truffles, and accompanied by a Pat de Peri- gueux, a dish well known to French gourmands, restored us all to good-humor. While we were at breakfast, a personage stalked into the room, whose strange appearance arrested my atten tion, and gave subject for future conversation to our party. He was a tall, thin figure, armed with a long whip, brass spurs, and black whiskers. He wore a bell-crowned, varnished hat, a blue frock-coat with standing collar, a red waistcoat, a pair of yellow leather breeches, and boots that reached to the knees. I at first took him for a postilion, or a private courier ; but, upon inquiry, I found that he was only the son of a notary-public, and that he dressed in this strange fashion to please his ovrn fancy. 1 44 Coq-a-l'A ne As soon as we were comfortably seated in the diligence, I made some remark on the singular costume of the personage whom I had just seen at the tavern. "These things are so common with us," said the politician, "that we hardly notice them." " What you want in liberty of speech, then, you make up in liberty of dress ? " " Yes ; in this, at least, we are a free peo ple." " I had not been long in France, before I discovered that a man may dress as he pleases, without being stared at. The most opposite styles of dress seem to be in vogue at the same moment. No strange garment nor desperate hat excites either ridicule or surprise. French fashions are known and imitated all the world over." "Very true, indeed," said a little man in gosling-green. " We give fashions to all other nations." " Fashions ! " said the politician, with a kind of growl, " fashions ! Yes, sir, and some of us are simple enough to boast of it, as if we were a nation of tailors." Here the little man in gosling-green pulled up the horns of his cotton shirt-collar. Coq-a-l'Ane 145 " I recollect," said I, " that your Madame de Pompadour in one of her letters says some thing to this effect : ' We furnish our enemies with hair-dressers, ribbons, and fashions ; and they furnish us with laws.' " "That is not the only silly thing she said in her lifetime. Ah ! sir, these Pompadours and Maintenons, and Montespans were the authors of much woe to France. Their follies and extravagances exhausted the public treas ury, and made the nation poor. They built palaces, and covered themselves with jewels, and ate from golden plate ; while the people who toiled for them had hardly a crust to keep their own children from starvation ! And yet they preach to us the divine right of kings ! " My radical had got upon his high horse again ; and I know not whither it would have carried him, had not a thin man with a black, seedy coat, who sat at his elbow, at that mo ment crossed his path by one of those abrupt and sudden transitions which leave you aghast at the strange association of ideas in the speaker's mind. "Apropos de bottes!" exclaimed he, " speak ing of boots, and notaries public, and such 7 J 146 Coq-a-FAne matters, excuse me for interrupting you, sir, a little story has just popped into my head which may amuse the company ; and as I am not very fond of political discussions, no offence, sir, I will tell it, for the sake of changing the conversation." Whereupon, without further preamble or apology, he proceeded to tell his story in, as nearly as may be, the following words. THE NOTARY OF PERIGUEUX Do not trust thy body with a physician. He '11 make thy foolish bones go without flesh in a fortnight, and thy soul walk without a body a sen night after. SHIRLEY. YOU must know, gentlemen, that there lived some years ago, in the city of Peri- gueux, an honest notary-public, the descend ant of a very ancient and broken-down family, and the occupant of one of those old weather- beaten tenements which remind you of the times of your great-grandfather. He was a man of an unoffending, quiet disposition ; the father of a family, though not the head of it, for in that family "the hen overcrowed the cock," and the neighbors, when they spake of the notary, shrugged their shoulders, and exclaimed, " Poor fellow ! his spurs want sharp ening." In fine, you understand me, gen tlemen, he was hen-pecked. Well, finding no peace at home, he sought it elsewhere, as was very natural for him to do ; and at length discovered a place of rest, 148 The Notary of Perigueux far beyond the cares and clamors of domes tic life. This was a little Cafe Estaminet, a short way out of the city, whither he re paired every evening to smoke his pipe, drink sugar-water, and play his favorite game of domino. There he met the boon companions he most loved ; heard all the floating chitchat of the day ; laughed when he was in merry mood ; found consolation when he was sad ; and at all times gave vent to his opinions, without fear of being snubbed short by a flat contradiction. Now, the notary's bosom-friend was a dealer in claret and cognac, who lived about a league from the city, and always passed his evenings at the Estaminet. He was a gross, corpulent fellow, raised from a full-blooded Gascon breed, and sired by a comic actor of some reputation in his way. He was remarkable for nothing but his good-humor, his love of cards, and a strong propensity to test the quality of his own liquors by comparing them with those sold at other places. As evil communications corrupt good man ners, the bad practices of the wine-dealer won insensibly upon the worthy notary ; and before he was aware of it, he found himself weaned The Notary of P'erigueux 149 from domino and sugar-water, and addicted to piquet and spiced wine. Indeed, it not unfre- quently happened, that, after a long session at the Estaminet, the two friends grew so urbane, that they would waste a full half-hour at the door in friendly dispute which should con duct the other home. Though this course of life agreed well enough with the sluggish, phlegmatic tem perament of the wine-dealer, it soon began to play the very deuse with the more sensitive organization of the notary, and finally put his nervous system completely out of tune. He lost his appetite, became gaunt and haggard, and could get no sleep. Legions of blue-devils haunted him by day, and by night strange faces peeped through his bed-curtains, and the nightmare snorted in his ear. The worse he grew, the more he smoked and tippled ; and the more he smoked and tippled, why, as a matter of course, the worse he grew. His wife alternately stormed, remonstrated, entreated ; but all in vain. She made the house too hot for him, he retreated to the tavern ; she broke his long-stemmed pipes upon the and irons, he substituted a short-stemmed one, which, for safe keeping, he carried in his waistcoat-pocket. 150 The Notary of Perigueux Thus the unhappy notary ran gradually down at the heel. What with his bad habits and his domestic grievances, he became com pletely hipped. He imagined that he was go ing to die ; and suffered in quick succession all the diseases that ever beset mortal man. Every shooting pain was an alarming symp tom, every uneasy feeling after dinner a sure prognostic of some mortal disease. In vain did his friends endeavor to reason, and then to laugh him out of his strange whims ; for when did ever jest or reason cure a sick imagination ? His only answer was, " Do let me alone ; I know better than you what ails me." Well, gentlemen, things were in this state, when, one afternoon in December, as he sat moping in his office, wrapped in an overcoat, with a cap on his head and his feet thrust into a pair of furred slippers, a cabriolet stopped at the door, and a loud knocking without aroused him from his gloomy revery. It was a mes sage from his friend the wine-dealer, who had been suddenly attacked with a violent fever, and growing worse and worse, had now sent in the greatest haste for the notary to draw up his last will and testament. The case was ur- The Notary of Perigmux 151 gent, and admitted neither excuse nor delay ; and the notary, tying a handkerchief round his face, and buttoning up to the chin, jumped into the cabriolet, and suffered himself, though not without some dismal presentiments and misgivings of heart, to be driven to the wine- dealer's house. When he arrived, he found everything in the greatest confusion. On entering the house, he ran against the apothecary, who was coming down stairs, with a face as long as your arm ; and a few steps farther he met the house keeper for the wine-dealer was an old bach elor running up and down, and wringing her hands, for fear that the good man should die without making his will. He soon reached the chamber of his sick friend, and found him tossing about in a paroxysm of fever, and call ing aloud for a draught of cold water. The notary shook his head ; he thought this a fatal symptom ; for ten years back the wine-dealer had been suffering under a species of hydro phobia, which seemed suddenly to have left him. When the sick man saw who stood by his bedside, he stretched out his hand and ex claimed, 152 The Notary of Perigueux "Ah ! my dear friend ! have you come at last ? You see it is all over with me. You have arrived just in time to draw up that that passport of mine. Ah, grand diable! how hot it is here ! Water, water, wa ter ! Will nobody give me a drop of cold water ? " As the case was an urgent one, the notary made no delay in getting his papers in readi ness ; and in a short time the last will and tes tament of the wine-dealer was drawn up in due form, the notary guiding the sick man's hand as he scrawled his signature at the bot tom. As the evening wore away, the wine-dealer grew worse and worse, and at length became delirious, mingling in his incoherent ravings the phrases of the Credo and Paternoster with the shibboleth of the dram-shop and the card- table. " Take care ! take care ! There, now Cre do in Pop ! ting-a-ling-ling ! give me some of that. Cent-e-dize ! Why, you old publican, this wine is poisoned, I know your tricks ! Sanctam ecclesiam catholicam Well, well, we shall see. Imbecile ! to have a tierce-major and a seven of hearts, and discard the seven ! The Notary of Perigueux 153 By St. Anthony, capot ! You are lurched, ha ! ha ! I told you so. I knew very well, there, there, don't interrupt me Carnis resurrectionem et vitam eternam ! " With these words upon his lips, the poor wine-dealer expired. Meanwhile the notary sat cowering over the fire, aghast at the fearful scene that was passing before him, and now and then striving to keep up his courage by a glass of cognac. Already his fears were on the alert ; and the idea of contagion flitted to and fro through his mind. In order to quiet these thoughts of evil import, he lighted his pipe and began to prepare for returning home. At that moment the apothecary turned round to him and said, " Dreadful sickly time, this ! The disorder seems to be spreading." " What disorder ? " exclaimed the notary, with a movement of surprise. "Two died yesterday, and three to-day," continued the apothecary, without answering the question. " Very sickly time, sir, very." " But what disorder is it ? What disease has carried off my friend here so suddenly ? " " What disease ? Why, scarlet fever, to be sure." 154 The Notary of Perigueux "And is it contagious ?" " Certainly ! " " Then I am a dead man ! " exclaimed the notary, putting his pipe into his waistcoat- pocket, and beginning to walk up and down the room in despair. "I am a dead man ! Now don't deceive me, don't, will you ? What what are the symptoms ? " "A sharp burning pain in the right side," said the apothecary. " O, what a fool I was to come here ! " In vain did the housekeeper and the apothe cary strive to pacify him ; he was not a man to be reasoned with ; he answered that he knew his own constitution better than they did, and insisted upon going home without de lay. Unfortunately, the vehicle he came in had returned to the city ; and the whole neigh borhood was abed and asleep. What was to be done ? Nothing in the world but to take the apothecary's horse, which stood hitched at the door, patiently waiting his master's will. Well, gentlemen, as there was no remedy, our notary mounted this raw-boned steed, and set forth upon his homeward journey. The night was cold and gusty, and the wind right in his teeth. Overhead the leaden clouds The Notary of Perigueux 155 were beating to and fro, and through them the newly risen moon seemed to be tossing and drifting along like a cock-boat in the surf; now swallowed up in a huge billow of cloud, and now lifted upon its bosom and dashed with silvery spray. The trees by the road-side groaned with a sound of evil omen ; and be fore him lay three mortal miles, beset with a thousand imaginary perils. Obedient to the whip and spur, the steed leaped forward by fits and starts, now dashing away in a tremen dous gallop, and now relaxing into a long, hard trot ; while the rider, filled with symp toms of disease and dire presentiments of death, urged him on, as if he were fleeing be fore the pestilence. In this way, by dint of whistling and shout ing, and beating right and left, one mile of the fatal three was safely passed. The apprehen sions of the notary had so far subsided, that he even suffered the poor horse to walk up hill ; but these apprehensions were suddenly re vived again with tenfold violence by a sharp pain in the right side, which seemed to pierce him like a needle. " It is upon me at last ! " groaned the fear- stricken man. " Heaven be merciful to me, 156 The Notary of Perigmux the greatest of sinners ! And must I die in a ditch, after all ? He ! get up, get up ! " And away went horse and rider at full speed, hurry-scurry, up hill and down, panting and blowing like a whirlwind. At every leap the pain in the rider's side seemed to increase. At first it was a little point like the prick of a needle, then it spread to the size of a half-franc piece, then covered a place as large as the palm of your hand. It gained upon him fast. The poor man groaned aloud in agony ; faster and faster sped the horse over the frozen ground, farther and farther spread the pain over his side. To complete the dismal picture, the storm com menced, snow mingled with rain. But snow, and rain, and cold were naught to him ; for, though his arms and legs were frozen to ici cles, he felt it not ; the fatal symptom was up on him ; he was doomed to die, not of cold, but of scarlet fever ! At length, he knew not how, more dead than alive, he reached the gate of the city. A band of ill-bred dogs, that were serenading at a corner of the street, seeing the notary dash by, joined in the hue and cry, and ran barking and yelping; at his heels. It was now late at The Notary of P'erigueux 157 night, and only here and there a solitary lamp twinkled from an upper story. But on went the notary, down this street and up that, till at last he reached his own door. There was a light in his wife's bedroom. The good wo man came to the window, alarmed at such a knocking, and howling, and clattering at her door so late at night ; and the notary was too deeply absorbed in his own sorrows to observe that the lamp cast the shadow of two heads on the window-curtain. " Let me in ! let me in ! Quick ! quick ! " he exclaimed, almost breathless from terror and fatigue. " Who are you, that come to disturb a lone woman at this hour of the night ? " cried a sharp voice from above. " Begone about your business, and let quiet people sleep." " Come down and let me in ! I am your husband. Don't you know my voice ? Quick, I beseech you ; for I am dying here in the street ! " After a few moments of delay and a few more words of parley, the door was opened, and the notary stalked into his domicile, pale and haggard in aspect, and as stiff and straight as a ghost. Cased from head to heel in an ar- 158 The Notary of Perigueux mor of ice, as the glare of the lamp fell upon him, he looked like a knight-errant mailed in steel. But in one place his armor was broken. On his right side was a circular spot, as large as the crown of your hat, and about as black ! " My dear wife ! " he exclaimed, with more tenderness than he had exhibited for many years, " Reach me a chair. My hours are numbered. I am a dead man ! " Alarmed at these exclamations, his wife stripped off his overcoat. Something fell from beneath it, and was dashed to pieces on the hearth. It was the notary's pipe ! He placed his hand upon his side, and, lo ! it was bare to the skin ! Coat, waistcoat, and linen were burnt through and through, and there was a blister on his side as large as your hand ! The mystery was soon explained, symptom and all. The notary had put his pipe into his pocket without knocking out the ashes ! And so my story ends. " Is that all ? " asked the radical, when the story-teller had finished. " That is all." " Well, what does your story prove ? " The Notary of Perigueux 159 " That is more than I can tell. All I know is that the story is true." " And did he die ? " said the nice little man in gosling-green. " Yes ; he died afterwards," replied the sto ry-teller, rather annoyed by the question. "And what did he die of? " continued gos ling-green, following him up. " What did he die of ? why, he died of a sudden ! " THE JOURNEY INTO SPAIN A Tissue de Pyver que le joly temps de primavere commence, et qu'on -roll a/bres verdoyer, fleurs espanouir, et qu'on oil les oisillons chanter en toute joie et doulceur, tant que les verts bocages retentissent de leurs sons et que cceurs tristes pensifs y dolens s'en esjouissent, s'emeuvent a delaii- ser deuil et toute tristesse, et se parforcent a valoir niieux. LA PLAISANTB HISTOIRE DE GUERIN DE MONGLAVE. SOFT-BREATHING Spring! how many pleasant thoughts, how many delightful recollections, does thy name awaken in the mind of a traveller ! Whether he has followed thee by the banks of the Loire or the Guadal- quiver, or traced thy footsteps slowly climb ing the sunny slope of Alp or Apennine, the thought of thee shall summon up sweet visions of the past, and thy golden sunshine and soft vapory atmosphere become a portion of his day-dreams and of him. Sweet images of thee, and scenes that have oft inspired the poet's song, shall mingle in his recollections of the past. The shooting of the tender leaf, the sweetness and elasticity of the air, the blue sky, the fleet-drifting cloud, and the flocks of wild fowl wheeling in long-drawn The Journey into Spain 161 phalanx through the air, and screaming from their dizzy height, all these shall pass like a dream before his imagination, "And gently o'er his memory come at times A glimpse of joys that had their birth in thee, Like a brief strain of some forgotten tune. " It was at the opening of this delightful sea son of the year that I passed through the South of France, and took the road of St. Jean de Luz for the Spanish frontier. I left Bordeaux amid all the noise and gayety of the last scene of Carnival. The streets and public walks of the city were full of merry groups in masks, at every corner crowds were listening to the dis cordant music of the wandering ballad-singer ; and grotesque figures, mounted on high stilts, and dressed in the garb of the peasants of the Landes of Gascony, were stalking up and down like so many long-legged cranes ; others were amusing themselves with the tricks and grimaces of little monkeys, disguised like little men, bowing to the ladies, and figuring away in red coats and ruffles ; and here and there a band of chimney-sweeps were staring in stupid wonder at the miracles of a showman's box. In a word, all was so full of mirth and merri- make, that even beggary seemed to have for- 1 62 The Journey into Spain gotten that it was wretched, and gloried in the ragged masquerade of one poor holiday. To this scene of noise and gayety succeeded the silence and solitude of the Landes of Gas- cony. The road from Bordeaux to Bayonne winds along through immense pine-forests and sandy plains, spotted here and there with a dingy little hovel, and the silence is inter rupted only by the dismal hollow roar of the wind among the melancholy and majestic pines. Occasionally, however, the way is enli vened by a market-town or a straggling vil lage ; and I still recollect the feelings of de light which I experienced, when, just after sun set, we passed through the romantic town of Roquefort, built upon the sides of the green valley of the Douze, which has scooped out a verdant hollow for it to nestle in, amid those barren tracts of sand. On leaving Bayonne, the scene assumes a character of greater beauty and sublimity. To the vast forests of the Landes of Gascony suc ceeds a scene of picturesque beauty, delightful to the traveller's eye. Before him rise the snowy Pyrenees, a long line of undulating hills, " Bounded afar by peak aspiring bold, -.ike giant capped with helm of burnished gold." The Journey into Spain 163 To the left, as far as the eye can reach, stretch the delicious valleys of the Nive and Adour ; and to the right the sea flashes along the peb bly margin of its silver beach, forming a thou sand little bays and inlets, or comes tumbling in among the cliffs of a rock-bound coast, and beats against its massive barriers with a dis tant, hollow, continual roar. Should these pages meet the eye of any soli tary traveller who is journeying into Spain by the road I here speak of, I would advise him to travel from Bayonne to St. Jean de Luz on horseback. At the gate of Bayonne he will find a steed ready caparisoned for him, with a dark-eyed Basque girl for his companion and guide, who is to sit beside him upon the same horse. This style of travelling is, I believe, peculiar to the Basque provinces ; at all events, I have seen it nowhere else. The saddle is constructed with a large frame-work extend ing on each side, and covered with cushions ; and the traveller and his guide, being placed on the opposite extremities, serve as a balance to each other. We overtook many travellers mounted in this way, and I could not help thinking it a mode of travelling far prefer able to being cooped up in a diligence. Th^ 164 The Journey into Spain Basque girls are generally beautiful ; and there was one of these merry guides we met upon the road to Bidart whose image haunts me still. She had large and expressive black eyes, teeth like pearls, a rich and sunburnt complexion, and hair of a glossy blackness, parted on the forehead, and falling down be hind in a large braid, so long as almost to touch the ground with the little ribbon that confined it at the end. She wore the common dress of the peasantry of the South of France, and a large gypsy straw hat was thrown back over her shoulder, and tied by a ribbon about her neck. There was hardly a dusty traveller in the coach who did not envy her companion the seat he occupied beside her. Just at nightfall we entered the town of St. Jean de Luz, and dashed down its narrow streets at full gallop. The little madcap pos tilion cracked his knotted whip incessantly, and the sound echoed back from the high dingy walls like the report of a pistol. The coach-wheels nearly touched the houses on each side of us ; the idlers in the street jumped right and left to save themselves ; win dow-shutters flew open in all directions ; a thousand heads popped out from cellar and The Journey into Spain 165 upper story ; " Sacr-r-rt? mdtin ! " shouted the postilion, and we rattled on like an earth quake. St. Jean de Luz is a smoky little fishing- town, situated on the low grounds at the mouth of the Nivelle, and a bridge connects it with the faubourg of Sibourne, which stands on the opposite bank of the river. I had no time, however, to note the peculiarities of the place, for I was whirled out of it with the same speed and confusion with which I had been whirled in, and I can only recollect the sweep of the road across the Nivelle, the church of Sibourne by the water's edge, the narrow streets, the smoky-looking houses with red window-shutters, and " a very ancient and fish- like smell." I passed by moonlight the little river Bi- dasoa, which forms the boundary between France and Spain ; and when the morning broke, found myself far up among the moun tains of San Salvador, the most westerly links of the great Pyrenean chain. The mountains around me were neither rugged nor precipi tous, but they rose one above another in a long, majestic swell, and the trace of the ploughshare was occasionally visible to their i6b The Journey into Spain summits. They seemed entirely destitute of trees ; and as the season of vegetation had not yet commenced, their huge outlines lay black, and barren, and desolate against the sky. But it was a glorious morning, and the sun rose up into a cloudless heaven, and poured a flood of gorgeous splendor over the mountain landscape, as if proud of the realm he shone upon. The scene was enliv ened by the dashing of a swollen mountain- brook, whose course we followed for miles down the valley, as it leaped onward to its journey's end, now breaking into a white cas cade, and now foaming and chafing beneath a rustic bridge. Now and then we drove through a dilapidated town, with a group of idlers at every corner, wrapped in tattered brown cloaks, and smoking their little paper cigars in the sun ; then would succeed a deso late tract of country, cheered only by the tinkle of a mule-bell, or the song of a mule teer ; then we would meet a solitary traveller mounted on horseback, and wrapped in the ample folds of his cloak, with a gun hanging at the pommel of his saddle. Occasionally, too, among the bleak, inhospitable hills, we passed a rude little chapel, with a cluster of The Journey into Spain 167 ruined cottages around it ; and whenever our carriage stopped at the relay, or loitered slow ly up the hillside, a crowd of children would gather around us, with little images and cruci fixes for sale, curiously ornamented with rib bons and bits of tawdry finery. A day's journey from the frontier brought us to Vitoria, where the diligence stopped for the night. I spent the scanty remnant of day light in rambling about the streets of the city, with no other guide than the whim of the mo ment. Now I plunged down a dark and nar row alley, now emerged into a wide street or a spacious market-place, and now aroused the drowsy echoes of a church or cloister with the sound of my intruding footsteps. But de scriptions of churches and public squares are dull and tedious matters for those readers who are in search of amusement, and not of in struction ; and if any one has accompanied me thus far on my fatiguing journey towards the Spanish capital, I will readily excuse him from the toil of an evening ramble through the streets of Vitoria. On the following morning we left the town, long before daybreak, and during our fore noon's journey the postilion drew up at an inn, 1 68 The Journey into Spain on the southern slope of the Sierra de San Lorenzo, in the province of Old Castile. The house was an old, dilapidated tenement, built of rough stone, and coarsely plastered upon the outside. The tiled roof had long been the sport of wind and rain, the motley coat of plaster was broken and time-worn, and the whole building sadly out of repair ; though the fanciful mouldings under the eaves, and the curiously carved wood-work that support ed the little balcony over the principal en trance, spoke of better days gone by. The whole building reminded me of a dilapidated Spanish Don, down at the heel and out at el bows, but with here and there a remnant of former magnificence peeping through the loop holes of his tattered cloak. A wide gateway ushered the traveller into the interior of the building, and conducted him to a low-roofed apartment, paved with round stones, and serving both as a court-yard and a stable. It seemed to be a neutral ground for man and beast, a little republic, where horse and rider had common privileges, and mule and muleteer lay cheek by jowl. In one corner a poor jackass was patiently de vouring a bundle of musty straw, in an* The Journey into Spain 169 other, its master lay sound asleep, with his saddle-cloth for a pillow ; here a group of muleteers were quarrelling over a pack of dirty cards, and there the village barber, with a self-important air, stood laving the Al calde's chin from the helmet of Mambrino. On the wall, a little taper glimmered feebly before an image of St. Anthony ; directly opposite these a leathern wine-bottle hung by the neck from a pair of ox-horns ; and the pavement below was covered with a curious medley of boxes, and bags, and cloaks, and pack-saddles, and sacks of grain, and skins of wine, and all kinds of lumber. A small door upon the right led us into the inn-kitchen. It was a room about ten feet square, and literally all chimney ; for the hearth was in the centre of the floor, and the walls sloped upward in the form of a long, nar row pyramid, with an opening at the top for the escape of the smoke. Quite round this lit tle room ran a row of benches, upon which sat one or two grave personages smoking paper cigars. Upon the hearth blazed a handful of fagots, whose bright flame danced merrily among a motley congregation of pots and ket tles, and a long wreath of smoke wound lazily 8 170 The Journey into Spain up through the huge tunnel of the roof above. The walls were black with soot, and orna mented with sundry legs of bacon and festoons of sausages ; and as there were no windows in this dingy abode, the only light which cheered the darkness within, came flickering from the fire upon the hearth, and the smoky sunbeams that peeped down the long-necked chimney. I had not been long seated by the fire, when the tinkling of mule-bells, the clatter of hoofs, and the hoarse voice of a muleteer in the outer apartment, announced the arrival of new guests. A few moments afterward the kitch en-door opened, and a person entered, whose appearance strongly arrested my attention. It was a tall, athletic figure, with the majestic carriage of a grandee, and a dark, sunburnt countenance, that indicated an age of about fifty years. His dress was singular, and such as I had. not before seen. He wore a round hat with wide, flapping brim, from beneath which his long, black hair hung in curls upon his shoulders ; a leather jerkin, with cloth sleeves, descended to his hips ; around his waist was closely buckled a leather belt, with a cartouch-box on one side ; a pair of loose trousers of black serge hung in ample folds to The Journey into Spain 171 the knees, around which they were closely gathered by embroidered garters of blue silk ; and black broadcloth leggins, buttoned close to the calves, and strapped over a pair of brown leather shoes, completed the singular dress of the stranger. He doffed his hat as he entered, and, saluting the company with a " Dios guarde a Ustedes, caballeros " (God guard you, Gentlemen), took a seat by the fire, and en tered into conversation with those around him. As my curiosity was not a little excited by the peculiar dress of this person, I inquired of a travelling companion, who sat at my elbow, who and what this new-comer was. From him I learned that he was a muleteer of the Maragaten'a, a name given to a cluster of small towns which lie in the mountainous country between Astorga and Villafranca, in the western corner of the kingdom of Leon. "Nearly every province in Spain," said he, " has its peculiar costume, as you will see, when you have advanced farther into our coun try. For instance, the Catalonians wear crim son caps, hanging down upon the shoulder like a sack ; wide pantaloons of green velvet, long enough in the waistband to cover the whole breast ; and a little strip of a jacket, 172 The Journey into Spain made of the same material, and so short as to bring the pocket directly under the armpit. The Valencians, on the contrary, go almost naked : a linen shirt, white linen trousers, reaching no lower than the knees, and a pair of coarse leather sandals complete their simple garb ; it is only in mid-winter that they in dulge in the luxury of a jacket. The most beautiful and expensive costume, however, is that of Andalusia ; it consists of a velvet jack et, faced with rich and various-colored em broidery, and covered with tassels and silken cord ; a waistcoat of some gay color ; a silken handkerchief round the neck, and a crimson sash round the waist ; breeches that button down each side ; gaiters and shoes of white leather ; and a handkerchief of bright-colored silk wound about the head like a turban, and surmounted by a velvet cap or a little round hat, with a wide band, and an abundance of silken loops and tassels. The Old Castilians are more grave in their attire : they wear a leather breastplate instead of a jacket, breeches and leggins, and a montera cap. This fellow is a Maragato ; and in the villages of the Mar- agateria the costume varies a little from the rest of Leon and Castile." The Journey into Spain 173 " If he is indeed a Maragato," said I, jesting ly, "who knows but he may be a descendant of the muleteer who behaved so naughtily at Cacabelos, as related in the second chapter of the veracious history of Gil Bias de Santilla- na ? " " I Quien sabe f " was the reply. " Notwith standing the pride which even the meanest Castilian feels in counting over a long line of good-for-nothing ancestors, the science of gen ealogy has become of late a very intricate study in Spain." Here our conversation was cut short by the Mayoral of the diligence, who came to tell us that the mules were waiting ; and before many hours had elapsed, we were scrambling through the square of the ancient city of Burgos. On the morrow we crossed the river Duero and the Guadarrama Mountains, and early in the afternoon entered the " Heroica Villa," of Ma drid, by the Puerta de Fuencarral. SPAIN Santiago y cierra Espana ! SPANISH WAR-CRT. IT is a beautiful morning in June; so beautiful, that I almost fancy myself in Spain. The tesselated shadow of the honey suckle lies motionless upon the floor, as if it were a figure in the carpet ; and through the open window comes the fragrance of the wild- brier and the mock-orange, reminding me of that soft, sunny clime where the very air is laden, like the bee, with sweetness, and the south wind ."Comes over gardens, and the flowers That kissed it are betrayed. " The birds are carolling in the trees, and their shadows flit across the window as they dart to and fro in the sunshine ; while the murmur of the bee, the cooing of doves from the eaves, and the whirring of a little humming-bird that has its nest in the honeysuckle, send up a sound of joy to meet the rising sun. How like Spain 175 the climate of the South ! How like a sum mer morning in Spain ! My recollections of Spain are of the most lively and delightful kind. The character of the soil and of its inhabitants, the stormy mountains and free spirits of the North, the prodigal luxuriance and gay voluptuousness of the South, the history and traditions of the past, resembling more the fables' of romance than the solemn chronicle of events, a soft and yet majestic language that falls like mar tial music on the ear, and a literature rich in the attractive lore of poetry and fiction, these, but not these alone, are my reminis cences of Spain. With these I recall the thousand little circumstances and enjoyments which always give a coloring to our recollec tions of the past ; the clear sky, the pure, balmy air, the delicious fruits and flowers, the wild-fig and the aloe, and the olive by the wayside, all, all that makes existence so joyous, and renders the sons and daugh ters of that clime the children of impulse and sensation. As I write these words, a shade of sadness steals over me. When I think what that glo rious land might be, and what it is, wkat 1 76 Spain nature intended it should be, and what man has made it, my very heart sinks within me. My mind instinctively reverts from the degra dation of the present to the glory of the past ; or, looking forward with strong misgivings, but with yet stronger hopes, interrogates the future. The burnished armor of the Cid stands in the archives of the royal museum of Madrid, and there, too, is seen the armor of Ferdinand and of Isabel, of Guzman the Good and of Gon- zalo de Cordova, and other early champions of Spain ; but what hand shall now wield the sword of the Campeador, or lift up the banner of Leon and Castile ? The ruins of Christian castle and Moorish alcazar still look forth from the hills of Spain ; but where, O where is the spirit of freedom that once fired the children of the Goth ? Where is the spirit of Bernardo del Carpio, and Perez de Vargas, and Alonzo de Aguilar ? Shall it forever sleep ? Shall it never again beat high in the hearts of their sons ? Shall the descendants of Pelayo bow forever beneath an iron yoke, "like cattle whose despair is dumb ? " The dust of the Cid lies mingling with the dust of Old Castile ; but his spirit is not bur ied with his ashes. It sleeps, but is not dead. Spain 177 The day will come, when the foot of the tyrant shall be shaken from the neck of Spain ; when a brave and generous people, though now igno rant, degraded, and much abused, shall " know their rights, and knowing dare maintain." Of the national character of Spain I have brought away this impression ; that its promi nent traits are a generous pride of birth, a superstitious devotion to the dogmas of the Church, and an innate dignity, which exhibits itself even in the common and every-day em ployments of life. Castilian pride is proverb ial. A beggar wraps his tattered cloak around him with all the dignity of a Roman senator ; and a muleteer bestrides his beast of burden with the air of a grandee. I have thought, too, that there was a tinge of sadness in the Spanish character. The na tional music of the land is remarkable for its melancholy tone ; and at times the voice of a peasant, singing amid the silence and solitude of the mountains, falls upon the ear like a fu neral chant. Even a Spanish holiday wears a look of sadness, a circumstance which some writers attribute to the cruel and overbearing spirit of the municipal laws. "On the greatest festivals," says Jovellanos, " instead of that 1 78 Spain boisterous merriment and noise which should bespeak the joy of the inhabitants, there reigns throughout the streets and market places a slothful inactivity, a gloomy stillness, which cannot be remarked without mingled emotions of surprise and pity. The few per sons who leave their houses seem to be driven from them by listlessness, and dragged as far as the threshold, the market, or the church- door ; there, muffled in their cloaks, leaning against a corner, seated on a bench, or loung ing to and fro, without object, aim, or pur pose, they pass their hours, their whole even ings, without mirth, recreation, or amusement. When you add to this picture the dreariness and filth of the villages, the poor and slovenly dress of the inhabitants, the gloominess and silence of their air, the laziness, the want of concert and union so striking everywhere, who but would be astonished, who but would be afflicted by so mournful a phenomenon ? This is not, indeed, the place to expose the errors which conspire to produce it ; but, whatever those errors may be, one point is clear, that they are all to be found in the laws ! " * * Informe dado a la Real Academia de Historia sobre Jue- gos, Espectaculos, y Diversiones Piiblicas. Spain 1 79 Of the same serious, sombre character is the favorite national sport, the bull-fight. It is a barbarous amusement, but of all others the most exciting, the most spirit-stirring ; and in Spain, the most popular. " If Rome lived content with bread and arms," says the author I have just quoted, in a spirited little discourse entitled Pan y Toros, " Madrid lives content with bread and bulls." Shall I describe a Spanish bull-fight ? No. It has been so often and so well described by other pens that mine shall not undertake it, though it is a tempting theme. I cannot, however, refuse myself the pleasure of quoting here a few lines from one of the old Spanish ballads upon this subject. It is entitled " The Bull-fight of Ganzul." The description of the bull, which is contained in the passage I here extract, is drawn with a master's hand. It is rather a paraphrase than a translation, by Mr. Lockhart. " From Guadiana comes he not, he comes not from Xenil, From Guadalarif of the plain, nor Barves of the hill ; But where from out the forest burst Xarama's waters clear, Beneath the oak-trees was he nursed, this proud and stately steer. " Dark is his hide on either side, but the blood within doth boil, And the dun hide glows, as if on fire, as he paws to the tur moil. 1 80 Spain His eyes are jet, and they are set in crystal rings of snow ; But now they stare with one red glare of brass upon the foe. "Upon the forehead of the bull the horns stand close and near, From out the broad and wrinkled skull like daggers they appear ; His neck is massy, like the trunk of some old, knotted tree, Whereon the monster's shaggy mane, like billows curled, ye see. " His legs are short, his hams are thick, his hoofs are black as night ; Like a strong flail he holds his tail, in fierceness of his might ; Like something molten out of iron, or hewn from forth the rock, Harpado of Xarama stands, to bide the Alcayde's shock. " Now stops the drum, close, close they come ; thrice meet and thrice give back ; The white foam of Harpado lies on the charger's breast of black ; The white foam of the charger on Harpado's front of dun ; Once more advance upon his lance, once more, thou fear less one ! " There are various circumstances closely connected with the train of thought I have here touched upon ; but I forbear to mention them, for fear of drawing out this chapter to Spain 1 8 1 too great a length. Some of them will natu rally find a place hereafter. Meanwhile let us turn the leaf to a new chapter, and to subjects of a livelier nature. A TAILOR'S DRAWER Nedyls, threde, thymbell, shers, and all suche knackcs. THE FOUK Ps A TAILOR'S drawer, did you say ? Yes ; a tailor's drawer. It is, indeed, rather a quaint rubric for a chapter in the pil grim's breviary ; albeit it well befits the mot ley character of the following pages. It is a title which the Spaniards give to a desulto ry discourse, wherein various and discordant themes are touched upon, and which is crammed full of little shreds and patches of erudition ; and certainly it is not inappropri ate to a chapter whose contents are of every shape and hue, and "do no more adhere and keep pace together than the hundredth psalm to the tune of Green Sleeves." n. IT is recorded in the Adventures of Gil Bias de Santillana, that, when this renowned per sonage first visited the city of Madrid, he took A Tailor's Drawer 183 lodgings at the house of Mateo Melandez, in the Puerta del Sol. In choosing a place of abode in the Spanish court, I followed, as far as practicable, thi? illustrious example ; but, as the kind-hearted Mateo had been long gath ered to his fathers, I was content to take up my residence in the hired house of Valentin Gonzalez, at the foot of the Calle de la Mon- tera. My apartments were in the third story, above the dust, though not beyond the rattle, of the street ; and my balconies looked down into the Puerta del Sol, the heart of Madrid, through which circulates the living current of its population at least once every twenty-four hours. The Puerta del Sol is a public square, from which diverge the five principal streets of the metropolis. It is the great rendezvous of grave and gay, of priest and layman, of gentle and simple, the mart of business and of gossip, the place where the creditor seeks his debtor, where the lawyer seeks his client, where the stranger seeks amusement, where the friend seeks his friend, and the foe his foe ; where the idler seeks the sun in winter, and the shade in summer, and the busybody seeks the daily news, and picks up the crumbs 184 A Tailor's Drawer of gossip to fly away with them in his beak to the tertulia of Dona Paquita ! Tell me, ye who have sojourned in foreign lands, and know in what bubbles a traveller's happiness consists, is it not a blessing to have your window overlook a scene like this ? in. THERE, take that chair upon the balcony, and let us look down upon the busy scene beneath us. What a continued roar the crowded thoroughfare sends up ! Though three stories high, we can hardly hear the sound of our own voices ! The London cries are whispers, when compared with the cries of Madrid. See, yonder stalks a gigantic peasant of New Castile, with a montera cap, brown jacket and breeches, and coarse blue stockings, forc ing his way through the crowd, and leading a donkey laden with charcoal, whose sonorous bray is in unison with the harsh voice of his master. Close at his elbow goes a rosy- cheeked damsel, selling calico. She is an Asturian from the mountains of Santander. How do you know ? By her short yellow pet ticoats, her blue bodice, her coral necklace A Tailor's Drawer 185 ^ and ear-rings. Through the middle of the square struts a peasant of Old Castile, with his yellow leather jerkin strapped about his waist, his brown leggins and his blue gar ters, driving before him a flock of gabbling turkeys, (and crying, at the top of his voice, " Pao, pao, pavitos, paos ! "J Next comes a lencian, with his loose linen trousers and san dal shoon, holding a huge sack of watermelons upon his shoulder with his left hand, and with his right balancing high in air a specimen of the luscious fruit, upon which is perched a little pyramid of the crimson pulp, while he tempts the passers-by with " A cala, y calando; una sandia vendo-o-o. Si esto es sangre!" (By the slice, come and try it, watermelon for sale. This is blood!) His companion near him has a pair of scales thrown over his shoul der, and holds both arms full of muskmelons. He chimes into the harmonious ditty with " Melo melo-o-o meloncitos ; aqui estd el azucar ! " (Melons, melons ; here is the sugar !) \ Behind them creeps a slow-moving Asturian, in heavy wooden shoes, crying watercresses ; and a peasant woman from the Guadarrama Mountains, with a montera cocked up in front, and a blue kerchief tied under her chin, 1 86 A Tailor's Drawer swings in each hand a bunch of live chickens, that hang by the claws, head downwards, fluttering, scratching, crowing with all their might, while the good woman tries to drown their voices in the discordant cry of " i Quien me compra un gallo y un par de gal Unas ? " (Who buys a cock, a pair of fowls ?) That tall fellow in blue, with a pot of flowers upon his shoulder, is a wag, beyond all dispute. See how cunningly he cocks his eye up at us,* and cries, " Si yo tuviera balcon ! " (If I only V had a balcony !) What next ? A Manchego with a sack of ^ oil under his arm ; a Gallego with a huge water-jar upon his shoulders ; an Italian ped- ler with images of saints and madonnas ; a razor-grinder with his wheel ; a mender of pots and kettles, making music, as he goes, with a shovel and a frying-pan ; and, in fine, a noisy, patchwork, ever-changing crowd, whose discordant cries mingle with the rumbling of wheels, the clatter of hoofs, and the clang of church-bells ; and make the Puerta del Sol, at certain hours of the day, like a street in Babylon the Great. A Tailor's Drawer 187 IV. CHITON ! A beautiful girl, with flaxen hair, blue eyes, and the form of a fairy in a midsum mer night's dream, has just stepped out on the balcony beneath us ! See how coquettishly she crosses her arms upon the balcony, thrusts her dainty little foot through the bars, and plays with her slipper ! She is an Andalu- sian, from Malaga. Her brother is a bold dragoon, and wears a long sword ; so beware ! and " let not the creaking of shoes and the rustling of silks betray thy poor heart to woman." Her mother is a vulgar woman, "fat and forty"; eats garlic in her salad, and smokes cigars. But mind ! that is a secret ; I tell it to you in confidence. v. THE following little ditty I translate from the Spanish. It is as delicate as a dew-drop. She is a maid of artless grace, Gentle in form, and fair of face. Tell me, thou ancient mariner, That sailest on the sea, If ship, or sail, or evening star Be half so fair as she ! 1 88 A Tailor's Drawer Tell me, thou gallant cavalier, Whose shining arms I see, If steed, or sword, or battle-field Be half so fair as she ! Tell me, thou swain, that guard'st thy flock Beneath the shadowy tree, If flock, or vale, or mountain-ridge Be half so fair as she ! VI. A MILLER has just passed by, covered with flour from head to foot, and perched upon the tip end of a little donkey, crying " Arre bor- rico ! " and at every cry swinging a cudgel in his hand, and giving the ribs of the poor beast what in the vulgar dialect is called a cachipor- razo. I could not help laughing, though I felt provoked with the fellow for his cruelty. The truth is, I have great regard for a jackass. His meekness, and patience, and long-suffer ing are very amiable qualities, and, consider ing his situation, worthy of all praise. In Spain, a donkey plays as conspicuous a part as a priest or a village alcalde. There would be no getting along without him. And yet who eo beaten and abused as he ? A Tailor's Drawer 189 VII. HERE comes a gay gallant, with white kid gloves, an eye-glass, a black cane, with a white ivory pommel, and a little hat, cocked pertly on one side of his head. He is an exquisite fop, and a great lady's man. You will always find him on the Prado at sunset, when the crowd and dust are thickest, ogling through his glass, flourishing his cane, and humming between his teeth some favorite air of the Semiramis, or the Barber of Seville. He is a great amateur, and patron of the Italian Opera, beats time with his cane, nods his head, and cries Bravo ! and fancies himself in love with the Prima Donna. The height of his ambition is to be thought the gay Lothario, the gallant Don Cortejo of his little sphere. He is a poet withal, and daily besieges the heart of the cruel Dona Inez with sonnets and madrigals. She turns a deaf ear to his song, and is inexorable : " Mas que no sea mas piadosa A dos escudos en prosa, No puede ser." A Tailors Drawer VIII. WHAT a contrast between this personage and the sallow, emaciated being who is now crossing the street ! It is a barefooted Car melite, a monk of an austere order, wasted by midnight vigils and long penance. Absti nence is written on that pale cheek, and the bowed head and downcast eye are in accord ance with the meek profession of a mendicant brotherhood. What is this world to thee, thou man of penitence and prayer ? What hast thou to do with all this busy, turbulent scene about thee, with all the noise, and gayety, and splendor of this thronged city ? Nothing. The wide world gives thee nothing, save thy daily crust, thy crucifix, thy convent-cell, thy pallet of straw ! Pilgrim of heaven ! thou hast no home on earth. Thou art journeying onward to " a house not made with hands " ; and, like the first apostles of thy faith, thou takest neither gold, nor silver, nor brass, nor scrip for thy journey. Thou hast shut thy heart to the en dearments of earthly love, thy shoulder bear- eth not the burden with thy fellow-man, in all this vast crowd thou hast no friends, no hopes, no sympathies. Thou standest aloof A Tailor's Drawer 191 from man, and art thou nearer God ? I know not. Thy motives, thy intentions, thy desires are registered in heaven. I am thy fellow-man, and not thy judge. " Who is the greater ? " says the German moralist ; " the wise man who lifts himself above the storms of time, and from aloof looks down upon them, and yet takes no part there in, or he who, from the height of quiet and repose, throws himself boldly into the battle- tumult of the world ? Glorious is it, when the eagle through the beating tempest flies into the bright blue heaven upward ; but far more glorious, when, poising in the blue sky over the black storm-abyss, he plunges downward to his aerie on the cliff, where cower his un fledged brood, and tremble." IX. vj SULTRY grows the day, and breathless ! The lately crowded street is silent and deserted, hardly a footfall, hardly here and there a solitary figure stealing along in the narrow strip of shade beneath the eaves ! Silent, too, and deserted is the Puerta del Sol ; so silent, that even at this distance the splashing of its fountain is distinctly audible, so deserted, 192 A Tailor's Drawer that not a living thing is visible there, save the outstretched and athletic form of a Galician water-carrier, who lies asleep upon the pave ment in the cool shadow of the fountain ! There is not air enough to stir the leaves of the jasmine upon the balcony, or break the thin column of smoke that issues from the ci gar of Don Diego, master of the noble Spanish tongue, y hem bv^de-^mtehos dingohndang&s. He sits bolt upright between the window and the door, with the collar of his snuff-colored frock thrown back upon his shoulders, and his toes turned out like a dancing-master, poring over the Diario de Madrid, to learn how high the thermometer rose yesterday, what pa tron saint has a festival to-day, and at what hour to-morrow the " King of Spaiiv Jerusa lem, and the Canary Islands " will take Ms de parture for the gardens of Aranjuez. -jj ' You have a proverb in your language, Don Diego, which says, " Despues de comer Ni un sobrescrito leer " ; after dinner read not even the superscription of a letter. I shall obey, and indulge in the exquisite luxury of a siesta. I confess that I love this after-dinner nap. Vjf I have a gift, a A Tailor's Drawer 193 vocation for anything, it is for sleeping ; and from my heart I can say with honest Sancho, " Blessed be the man that first invented sleep ! " In a sultry clime, too, where the noontide heat unmans you, and the cool starry night seems made for anything but slumber, I am willing to barter an hour or two of intense daylight for an hour or two of tranquil, lovely, dewy night ! Therefore, Don Diego, hasta la vista ! x. IT is evening ; the day is gone ; fast gather and deepen the shades of twilight ! In the words of a German allegory, " The babbling day has touched the hem of night's garment, and, weary and still, drops asleep in her bo som." The city awakens from its slumber. The convent-bells ring solemnly and slow. The streets are thronged again. Once more I hear the shrill cry, the rattling wheel, the murmur of the crowd. The blast of a trumpet sounds from the Puerta del Sol, then the tap of a drum ; a mounted guard opens the way, the crowd doff their hats, and the king sweeps by in a gilded coach drawn by six horses, and fol- 9 M 194 ^ Tailor's Drawer lowed by a long train of uncouth, antiquated vehicles drawn by mules. The living tide now sets towards the Prado, and the beautiful gardens of the Retire. Beau tiful are they at this magic hour ! Beautiful, with the almond-tree in blossom, with the broad green leaves of the sycamore and the chestnut, with the fragrance of the orange and the lemon, with the beauty of a thousand flow ers, with the soothing calm and the dewy i freshness of evening ! XI. I LOVE to linger on the Prado till the crowd is gone and the night far advanced. There musing and alone I sit, and listen to the lull ing fall of waters in their marble fountains, and watch the moon as it rises over the gar dens of the Retiro, brighter than a northern sun. The beautiful scene lies half in shadow, half in light, almost a fairy-land. Occasion ally the sound of a guitar, or a distant voice, breaks in upon my re very. Then the form of a monk, from the neighboring convent, sweeps by me like a shadow, and disappears in the gloom of the leafy avenues ; and far away from the streets of the city comes the voice of the watchman telling the midnight hour. A Tailor's Drawer 195 Lovely art thou, O Night, beneath the skies of Spain ! Day, panting with heat, and laden with a thousand cares, toils onward like a beast of burden ; but Night, calm, silent, holy Night, is a ministering angel that cools with its dewy breath the toil-heated brow ; and, like the Roman sisterhood, stoops down to bathe the pilgrim's feet. How grateful is the starry twilight ! How grateful the gentle radiance of the moon ! How grateful the deli cious coolness of " the* omnipresent and deep- breathing air ! " Lovely art thou, O Night, beneath the skies of Spain ! ANCIENT SPANISH BALLADS I love a ballad but even too well, if it be doleful matter merrily set down, or a very pleasant thing indeed, and sung lamentably. WINTER'S TALR HOW universal is the love of poetry ! Ev ery nation has its popular songs, the offspring of a credulous simplicity and an un schooled fancy. The peasant of the North, as he sits by the evening fire, sings the tradition ary ballad to his children, "Nor wants he gleeful tales, while round The nut-brown bowl doth trot " The peasant of the South, as he lies at noon in the shade of the sycamore, or sits by his door in the evening twilight, sings his amorous lay, and listlessly, " On hollow quills of oaten straw, He pipeth melody. " The muleteer of Spain carols with the early lark, amid the stormy mountains of his native land. The vintager of Sicily has his even ing hymn ; the fisherman of Naples his boat- Ancient Spanish Ballads 197 song ; the gondolier of Venice his midnight serenade. The goatherd of Switzerland and the Tyrol, the Carpathian boor, the Scotch Highlander, the English ploughboy, sing ing as he drives his team afield, peasant, serf, slave, all, all have their ballads and traditionary songs. Music is the univer sal language of mankind, poetry their uni versal pastime and delight. The ancient ballads of Spain hold a promi nent rank in her literary history. Their num ber is truly astonishing, and may well startle the most enthusiastic lover of popular song. The Romancero General* contains upwards of a thousand ; and though upon many of these may justly be bestowed the encomium which honest Izaak Walton pronounces upon the old English ballad of the Passionate Shep herd, "old-fashioned poetry, but choicely good," yet, as a whole, they are, perhaps, more remarkable for their number than for their beauty. Every great historic event, every marvellous tradition, has its popular bal lad. Don Roderick, Bernardo del Carpio, and * Romancero General, en que se contiene todos los Ro mances que andan impresos. 410. Madrid, 1604. 198 Ancient Spanish Ballads the Cid Campeador are not more the heroes of ancient chronicle than of ancient song ; and the imaginary champions of Christendom, the twelve peers of Charlemagne, have found an historian in the wandering ballad-singer no less authentic than the good Archbishop Tur- pin. Most of these ancient ballads had their origin during the dominion of the Moors in Spain. Many of them, doubtless, are nearly as old as the events they celebrate ; though in their present form the greater part belong to the fourteenth century. The language in which they are now preserved indicates no higher antiquity ; but who shall say how long they had been handed down by tradition, ere they were taken from the lips of the wander ing minstrel, and recorded in a more perma nent form ? The seven centuries of the Moorish sover eignty in Spain are the heroic ages of her his tory and her poetry. What the warrior achieved with his sword the minstrel pub lished in his song. The character of those ages is seen in the character of their literature. History casts its shadow far into the land of song. Indeed, the most prominent character- Ancient Spanish Ballads 199 istic of the ancient Spanish ballads is their warlike spirit. They shadow forth the ma jestic lineaments of the warlike ages ; and through every line breathes a high and pecu liar tone of chivalrous feeling. It is not the piping sound of peace, but a blast, a loud, long blast from the war-horn, " A trump with a stern breath, Which is cleped the trump of death. " And with this mingles the voice of lamenta tion, the requiem for the slain, with a melan choly sweetness : " Rio Verde, Rio Verde ! Many a corpse is bathed in thee, Both of Moors and eke of Christians, Slain with swords most cruelly, " And thy pure and crystal waters Dappled are with crimson gore ; For between the Moors and Christians Long has been the fight and sore. " Dukes and counts fell bleeding near thee, Lords of high renown were slain, Perished many a brave kidalgo Of the noblemen of Spain." Another prominent characteristic of these ancient ballads is their energetic and beau tiful simplicity. A great historic event is de- 2OO Ancient Spanish Ballads scribed in the fewest possible words ; there is no ornament, no artifice. The poet's intention was to narrate, not to embellish. It is truly wonderful to observe what force, and beauty, and dramatic power are given to the old ro mances by this single circumstance. When Bernardo del Carpio leads forth his valiant Leonese against the host of Charlemagne, he animates their courage by alluding to their battles with the Moors, and exclaims, " Shall the lions that have bathed their paws in Lib yan gore now crouch before the Frank ? " When he enters the palace of the treacherous Alfonso, to upbraid him for a broken promise, and the king orders him to be arrested for contumely, he lays his hand upon his sword and cries, " Let no one stir ! I am Ber nardo ; and my sword is not subject even to kings ! " When the Count Alarcos prepares to put to death his own wife at the king's com mand, she submits patiently to her fate, asks time to say a prayer, and then exclaims, " Now bring me my infant boy, that I may give him suck, as my last farewell ! " Is there in Ho mer an incident more touching, or more true to nature ? The ancient Spanish ballads naturally divide Ancient Spanish Ballads 201 themselves into three classes : the Historic, the Romantic, and the Moorish. It must be confessed, however, that the line of demarca tion between these three classes is not well defined ; for many of the Moorish ballads are historic, and many others occupy a kind of de batable ground between the historic and the romantic. I have adopted this classification for the sake of its convenience, and shall now make a few hasty observations upon each class, and illustrate my remarks by specimens of the ballads. The historic ballads are those which recount the noble deeds of the early heroes of Spain : of Bernardo del Carpio, the Cid, Martin Pelaez, Garcia Perez de Vargas, Alonso de Aguilar, and many others whose names stand conspicu ous in Spanish history. Indeed, these ballads may themselves be regarded in the light of historic documents ; they are portraits of long- departed ages, and if at times their features are exaggerated and colored with too bold a con trast of light and shade, yet the free and spir ited touches of a master's hand are recognized in all. They are instinct, too, with the spirit of Castilian pride, with the high and dauntless spirit of liberty that burned so fiercely of old 2O2 Ancient Spanish Ballads in the heart of the brave hidalgo. Take, for example, the ballad of the Five Farthings. King Alfonso the Eighth, having exhausted his treasury in war, wishes to lay a tax of five far things upon each of the Castilian hidalgos, in order to defray the expenses of a journey from Burgos to Cuenca. This proposition of the ting was met with disdain by the noblemen vho had been assembled on the occasion. " Don Nuno, Count of Lara, In anger and in pride, Forgot all reverence for the king, And thus in wrath replied : " ' Our noble ancestors,' quoth he, ' Ne'er such a tribute paid ; Nor shall the king receive of us What they have once gainsaid. " ' The base-born soul who deems it just May here with thee remain ; But follow me, ye cavaliers, Ye noblemen of Spain.' " Forth followed they the noble Count, They marched to Glera's plain ; Out of three thousand gallant knights Did only three remain. "They tied the tribute to their spears, They raised it in the air, And they sent to tell their lord the king That his tax was ready there. Ancient Spanish Ballads 203 " ' He may send and take by force,' said they, ' This paltry sum of gold ; But the goodly gift of liberty Cannot be bought and sold.' " The same gallant spirit breathes through all the historic ballads; but, perhaps, most fer vently in those which relate to Bernardo del Carpio. How spirit-stirring are all the speeches which the ballad-writers have put into the mouth of this valiant hero ! " Ours is the blood of the Goth," says he to King Al fonso ; " sweet to ,us is liberty, and bondage odious ! " " The king may give his castles to the Frank, but not his vassals ; for kings them selves hold no dominion over the free will ! " He and his followers would rather die freemen than live slaves ! If these are the common watchwords of liberty at the present day, they were no less so among the high-souled Span iards of the eighth century. One of the finest of the historic ballads is that which describes Bernardo's march to Ron- cesvalles. He sallies forth "with three thou sand Leonese and more," to protect the glory and freedom of his native land. From all sides, the peasantry of the land flock to the hero's standard. 204 Ancient Spanish Ballads " The peasant leaves his plough afield, The reaper leaves his hook, And from his hand the shepherd-by Lets fall the pastoral crook. " The young set up a shout of joy, The old forget their years, The feeble man grows stout of heart No more the craven fears. " All rush to Bernard's standard, And on liberty they call ; They cannot brook to wear the yoke, When threatened by the GauL " 'Free were we bom,' 'tis thus they cry, ' And willingly pay we The duty that we owe our king, By the divine decree. " ' But God forbid that we obey The laws of foreign knaves, Tarnish the glory of our sires, And make our children slaves. * ' Our hearts have not so craven grown, So bloodless all our veins, So vigorless our brawny arms, As to submit to chains. " ' Has the audacious Frank, forsooth, Subdued these seas and lands ? Shall he a bloodless victory have T No, not while we have hands. Ancient Spanish Ballads 205 " ' He shall learn that the gallant Leonese Can bravely fight and fall ; But that they know not how to yield ; They are Castilians all. " ' Was it for this the Roman power Of old was made to yield Unto Numantia's valiant hosts, On many a bloody field ? " ' Shall the bold lions that have bathed Their paws in Libyan gore, Crouch basely to a feebler foe, And dare the strife no more ? " ' Let the false king sell town and tower, But not his vassals free ; For to subdue the free-born soul No royal power hath he ! ' " These short specimens will suffice to show the spirit of the old heroic ballads of Spain ; the Romances del Cid, and those that rehearse the gallant achievements of many other cham pions, brave and stalwart knights of old, I must leave unnoticed, and pass to another field of chivalry and song. The next class of the ancient Spanish bal lads is the Romantic, including those which relate to the Twelve Peers of Charlemagne and other imaginary heroes of the days of chivalry. There is an exaggeration in the 206 Ancient Spanish Ballads prowess of these heroes of romance which is in accordance with the warmth of a Spanish im agination ; and the ballads which celebrate their achievements still go from mouth to mouth among the peasantry of Spain, and are hawked about the streets by the blind ballad- monger. Among the romantic ballads, those of the Twelve Peers stand pre-eminent ; not so much for their poetic merit as for the fame of their heroes. In them are sung the valiant knights whose history is written more at large in the prose romances of chivalry, Orlando, and Oliver, and Montesinos, and Durandarte, and the Marques de Mantua, and the other pala dins, " que en una mesa comian pan" These ballads are of different length and various degrees of merit. Of some a few lines only remain ; they are evidently fragments of larger works ; while others, on the contrary, aspire to the length and dignity of epic poems; wit ness the ballads of the Conde de Irlos and the Marques de Mantua, each of which consists of nearly a thousand long and sonorous lines. Among these ballads of the Twelve Peers there are many of great beauty ; others possess little merit, and are wanting in vigor and con- Ancient Spanish Ballads 207 ciseness. From the structure of the versifica tion, I should rank them among the oldest of the Spanish ballads. They are all monorhyth- mic, with full consonant rhymes. To the romantic ballads belong also a great number which recount the deeds of less cele brated heroes; but among them all none is so curious as that of Virgil. Like the old French romance-writers of the Middle Ages, the early Spanish poets introduce the Mantuan bard as a knight of chivalry. The ballad in forms us that a certain king kept him impris oned seven years, for what old Brantome would call outrecuydance with a certain Dona Isabel. But being at mass on Sunday, the recollection of Virgil comes suddenly into his mind, when he ought to be attending to the priest ; and, turning to his knights, he asks them what has become of Virgil. One of them replies, " Your Highness has him impris oned in your dungeons " ; to which the king makes answer with the greatest coolness, by telling them that the dinner is waiting, and that after they have dined they will pay Virgil a visit in his prison. Then up and spake the queen like a true heroine ; quoth she, " I will not dine without him " ; and straightway they 2o8 Ancient Spanish Ballads all repaired to the prison, where they find the incarcerated knight engaged in the pleasant pastime of combing his hair and arranging his beard. He tells the king very coolly that on that very day he has been a prisoner seven years ; to this the king replies, " Hush, hush, Virgil ; it takes three more to make ten." "Sire," says Virgil, with the same philosophi cal composure, "if your Highness so ordains, I will pass my whole life here." " As a reward for your patience, you shall dine with me to day," says the king. " My coat is torn," says Virgil ; " I am not in trim to make a leg." But this difficulty is removed by the promise of a new suit from the king ; and they go to dinner. Virgil delights both knights and dam sels, but most of all Dona Isabel. The arch bishop is called in ; they are married forth with, and the ballad closes like a scene in some old play : " He takes her by the hand, and leads her to the garden." Such is this curious ballad. I now turn to one of the most beautiful of these ancient Spanish poems ; it is the Ro mance del Conde Alarcos ; a ballad full of in terest and of touching pathos. The story is briefly this. The Count Alarcos, after being Ancient Spanish Ballads 209 secretly betrothed to the Infanta Solisa, for sakes her and weds another lady. Many years afterward, the princess, sitting alone, as she was wont, and bemoaning her forsaken lot, resolves to tell the cause of her secret sor row to the king her father ; and, after confess ing her clandestine love for Count Alarcos, demands the death of the Countess, to heal her wounded honor. Her story awakens the wrath of the king ; he acknowledges the just ness of her demand, seeks an interview with the Count, and sets the case before him in so strong a light, that finally he wrings from him a promise to put his wife to death with his own hand. The Count returns homeward a grief-stricken man, weeping the sad destiny of his wife, and saying within himself, " How shall I look upon her smile of joy, when she comes forth to meet me ? " The Countess wel comes his return with affectionate tenderness ; but he is heavy at heart and disconsolate. He sits down to supper with his children around him, but the food is untasted ; he hides his face in his hands, and weeps. At length they retire to their chamber. In the language of Mr. Lockhart's translation, 2io Ancient Spanish Ballads " They came together to the bower, where they were used to rest, None with them but the little babe that was upon the breast : The Count had barred the chamber-doors, they ne'er were barred till then : ' Unhappy lady,' he began, ' and I most lost of men ! ' " ' Now speak not so, my noble lord, my husband, and my life ! Unhappy never can she be that is Alarcos' wife ! ' ' Alas ! unhappy lady, 't is but little that you know ; For in that very word you 've said is gathered all your woe. " ' Long since I loved a lady, long since I oaths did plight To be that lady's husband, to love her day and night ; Her father is our lord the king, to him the thing is known ; And now that I the news should bring ! she claims me for her own. " ' Alas ! my love, alas ! my life, the right is on their side ; Ere I had seen your face, sweet wife, she was betrothed my bride ; But O, that I should speak the word ! since in her place you lie, It is the bidding of our lord that you this night must die.' " ' Are these the wages of my love, so lowly and so leal ? O, kill me not, thou noble Count, when at thy foot I kneel ! But send me to my father's house, where once I dwelt in glee; There will I live a lone, chaste life, and rear my children three.' " ' It may not be, mine oath is strong, ere dawn of day you die. ' ' O, well 't is seen how all alone upon the earth am I ! Ancient Spanish Ballads 211 My father is an old, frail man ; my mother 's in her grave ; And dead is stout Don Garci, alas ! my brother brave ! ' ' 'T was at this coward king's command they slew my brother dear, And now I 'm helpless in the land ! It is not death I fear, But loth, loth am I to depart, and leave my children so ; Now let me lay them to my heart, and kiss them, ere I go. ' " 'Kiss him that lies upon thy breast, the rest thou mayst not see.' ' I fain would say an Ave. ' ' Then say it speedily. ' She knelt her down upon her knee, ' O Lord, behold my case ! Judge not my deeds, but look on me in pity and great grace ! ' " When she had made her orison, up from her knees she rose : ' Be kind, Alarcos, to our babes, and pray for my repose ; And now give me my boy once more, upon my breast to hold, That he may drink one farewell drink before my breast be cold. ' "'Why would you waken the poor child? you see he is asleep ; Prepare, dear wife, there is no time, the dawn begins to peep. ' ' Now, hear me, Count Alarcos ! I give thee pardon free : I pardon thee for the love's sake wherewith I've loved thee ; " ' But they have not my pardon, the king and his proud daughter ; The curse of God be on them, for this unchristian slaughter. I charge them with my dying breath, ere thirty days be gone, To meet me in the realm of death, and at God's awful throne ! ' " 212 Ancient Spanish Ballads The Count then strangles her with a scarf, and the ballad concludes with the fulfilment of the dying lady's prayer, in the death of the king and the Infanta within twenty days of her own. Few, I think, will be disposed to question the beauty of this ancient ballad, though a refined and cultivated taste may revolt from the seemingly unnatural incident upon which it is founded. It must be recollected that this is a scene taken from a barbarous age, when the life of even the most cherished and beloved was held of little value in comparison with a chivalrous but false and exaggerated point of honor. It must be borne in mind also, that, notwithstanding the boasted liberty of the Cas- tilian hidalgos, and their frequent rebellions against the crown, a deep reverence for the divine right of kings, and a consequent dispo sition to obey the mandates of the throne, at almost any sacrifice, has always been one of the prominent traits of the Spanish character. When taken in connection with these circum stances, the story of this old ballad ceases to be so grossly improbable as it seems at first sight ; and, indeed, becomes an illustration of national character. In all probability, the Ancient Spanish Ballads 213 story of the Conde Alarcos had some foun dation in fact* The third class of the ancient Spanish bal lads is the Moorish. Here we enter a new world, more gorgeous and more dazzling than that of Gothic chronicle and tradition. The stern spirits of Bernardo, the Cid, and Mudarra have passed away ; the mail-clad forms of Gua- rinos, Orlando, and Durandarte are not here : the scene is changed ; it is the bridal of An- dalla ; the bull-fight of Ganzul. The sunshine of Andalusia glances upon the marble halls of Granada, and green are the banks of the Xenil and the Darro. A band of Moorish knights gayly arrayed in gambesons of crimson silk, with scarfs of blue and jewelled tahah'es, sweep like the wind through the square of Vi- varambla. They ride to the Tournament of Reeds ; the Moorish maiden leans from the balcony ; bright eyes glisten from many a lat tice ; and the victorious knight receives the prize of valor from the hand of her whose * This exaggerated reverence for the person and prerogatives of the king has furnished the groundwork of two of the best dramas in the Spanish language ; La Estrella de Sfvilla, by Lope de Vega, and Del Rey abajo Ninguno, by Francisco dc Rojas. 214 Ancient Spanish Ballads beauty is like . the star-lit night. These are the Xarifas, the Celindas, and Lindaraxas, the Andallas, Ganzules, and Abenzaydes of Moorish song. Then comes the sound of the silver clarion, and the roll of the Moorish atabal, down from the snowy pass of the Sierra Nevada and across the gardens of the Vega. Alhama has fallen ! woe is me, Alhama ! The Christian is at the gates of Granada ; the banner of the cross floats from the towers of the Alhambra ! And these, too, are themes for the minstrel, themes sung alike by Moor and Spaniard. Among the Moorish ballads are included not only those which were originally composed in Arabic, but all that relate to the manners, customs, and history of the Moors in Spain. In most of them the influence of an Oriental taste is clearly visible ; their spirit is more refined and effeminate than that of the historic and romantic ballads, in which no trace of such an influence is perceptible. The spirit of the Cid is stern, unbending, steel-clad ; his hand grasps his sword Tizona ; his heel wounds the flank of his steed Babieca ; " La mano aprieta a Tizona, Y el talon fiere a Babieca." Ancient Spanish Ballads 215 But the spirit of Arbolan the Moor, though resolute in camps, is effeminate in courts ; he is a diamond among scymitars, yet graceful in the dance ; " Diamante entre los alfanges, Gracioso en baylar las zambras. " The ancient ballads are stamped with the char acter of their heroes. Abundant illustrations of this could be given, but it is not necessary. Among the most spirited of the Moorish ballads are those which are interwoven in the History of the Civil Wars of Granada. The following, entitled "A very mournful Ballad on the Siege and Conquest of Alhama," is very beautiful ; and such was the effect it pro duced upon the Moors, that it was forbidden, on pain of death, to sing it within the walls of Granada. The translation, which is executed with great skill and fidelity, is from the pen of Lord Byron. ' ' The Moorish king rides up and down, Through Granada's royal town ; From Elvira's gates to those Of Bivarambla on he goes. Woe is me, Alhama ! " Letters to the monarch tell How Alhama's city fell; 2i6 Ancient Spanish Ballads In the fire the scroll he threw, And the messenger he slew. Woe is me, Alhama ! " He quits his mule, and mounts his horse, And through the street directs his course / Through the street of Zacatin To the Alhambra spurring in. Woe is me, Alhama ! " When the Alhambra's walls he gained On the moment he ordained That the trumpet straight should sound With the silver clarion round. Woe is me, Alhama 1 " And when the hollow drums of war Beat the loud alarm afar, That the Moors of town and plain Might answer to the martial strain, Woe is me, Alhama ! " Then the Moors, by this aware That bloody Mars recalled them there, One by one, and two by two, To a mighty squadron grew. Woe is me, Alhama ! " Out then spake an aged Moor In these words the king before : 4 Wherefore call on us, O king ? What may mean this gathering T ' Woe is me, Alhama ! *' ' Friends ! ye have, alas ! to know Of a most disastrous blow, Ancient Spanish Ballads 217 That the Christians, stern and bold, Have obtained Alhama's hold.' Woe is me, Alhama ! " Out then spake old Alfaqui, With his beard so white to see : ' Good king, thou art justly served ; Good king, this thou hast deserved. Woe is me, Alhama ! " ' By thee were slain, in evil hour, The Abencerrage, Granada's flower ; And strangers were received by thee Of Cordova the chivalry. Woe is me, Alhama ! " ' And for this, O king ! is sent On thee a double chastisement ; Thee and thine, thy crown and realm, One last wreck shall overwhelm. Woe is me, Alhama ! " ' He who holds no laws in awe, He must perish by the law ; And Granada must be won, And thyself with her undone.' Woe is me, Alhama ! " Fire flashed from out the old Moor's eyes ; The monarch's wrath began to rise, Because he answered, and because He spake exceeding well of laws. Woe is me, Alhama ! M ' There is no law to say such things As may disgust the ear of kings ! ' 10 218 Ancient Spanish Ballads Thus, snorting with his choler, said The Moorish king, and doomed him dead. Woe is me, Alhama ! " Such are the ancient ballads of Spain ; poems which, like the Gothic cathedrals of the Middle Ages, have outlived the names of their builders. They are the handiwork of wander ing, homeless minstrels, who for their daily bread thus "built the lofty rhyme"; and whose names, like their dust and ashes, have long, long been wrapped in a shroud. " These poets," says an anonymous writer, "have left behind them no trace to which the imagination can attach itself; they have 'died and made no sign.' We pass from the infancy of Spanish poetry to the age of Charles, through a long vista of monuments without inscriptions, as the traveller approaches the noise and bustle of modern Rome through the lines of silent and unknown tombs that border the Appian Way." Before closing this essay, I must allude to the unfavorable opinion which the learned Dr. Southey has expressed concerning the merit of these old Spanish ballads. In his preface to the Chronicle of the Cid, he says: "The heroic ballads of the Spaniards have been Ancient Spanish Ballads 219 overrated in this country ; they are infinitely and every way inferior to our own. There are some spirited ones in the Guerras Civiles de Granada, from which the rest have been esti mated ; but, excepting these, I know none of any value among the many hundreds which I have perused." On this field I am willing to do battle, though it be with a veteran knight who bears enchanted arms, and whose sword, like that of Martin Antolinez, " illumines all the field." That the old Spanish ballads may have been overrated, and that as a whole they are inferior to the English, I concede ; that many of the hundred ballads of the Cid are wanting in interest, and that many of those of the Twelve Peers of France are languid, and drawn out beyond the patience of the most patient reader, I concede ; I willingly confess, also, that among them all I have found none that can rival in graphic power the short but wonderful ballad of Sir Patrick Spence, where in the mariner sees " the new moon with the old moon in her arm," or the more modern one of the Battle of Agincourt, by Michael Dray- ton, beginning, " Fair stood the wind for France, As we our sails advance, 220 Ancient Spanish Ballads Nor now to prove our chance Longer will tarry ; But putting to the main, At Caux, the mouth of Seine, With all his martial train, Landed King Harry." All this I readily concede : but that the old Spanish ballads are infinitely and every way inferior to the English, and that among them all there are none of any value, save a few which celebrate the civil wars of Granada, this I deny. The March of Bernardo del Car- pio is hardly inferior to Chevy Chase ; and the ballad of the Conde Alarcos, in simplicity and pathos, has hardly a peer in all English bal ladry, it is superior to Edem o' Gordon. But a truce to criticism. Already, methinks, I hear the voice of a drowsy and prosaic her ald proclaiming, in the language of Don Quix ote to the puppet-player, " Make an end, Mas ter Peter, for it grows toward supper-time, and I have some symptoms of hunger upon me." THE VILLAGE OF EL PARDILLO When the lawyer is swallowed up with business, and the statesman is preventing or contriving plots, then we sit on cowslip banks, hear the birds sing, and possess ourselves in as much quietness as these silent silver streams we now see glide so quietly by us. IZAAK WALTON. IN that delicious season when the coy and capricious maidenhood of spring is swelling into the warmer, riper, and more voluptuous womanhood of summer, I left Madrid for the village of El Pardillo. I had already seen enough of the villages of the North of Spain to know that for the most part they have few charms to entice one from the city ; but I was curious to see the peasantry of the land in their native homes, to see how far the shep herds of Castile resemble those who sigh and sing in the pastoral romances of Montemayor and Caspar Gil Polo. I love the city and its busy hum ; I love that glad excitement of the crowd which makes the pulse beat quick, the freedom from restraint, the absence of those curious eyes and idle 222 The Village of El Pardillo tongues which persecute one in villages and provincial towns. I love the country, too, in its season ; and there is no scene over which my eye roves with more delight than the face of a summer landscape dimpled with soft sun ny hollows, and smiling in all the freshness and luxuriance of June. There is no book in which I read sweeter lessons of virtue, or find the beauty of a quiet life more legibly record ed. My heart drinks in the tranquillity of the scene ; and I never hear the sweet warble of a bird from its native wood, without a silent wish that such a cheerful voice and peaceful shade were mine. There is a beautiful moral feeling connected with everything in rural life, which is not dreamed of in the philosophy of the city. The voice of the brook and the language of the winds and woods are no poetic fiction. What an impressive lesson is there in the opening bud of spring ! what an eloquent homily in the fall of the autumnal leaf ! How well does the song of a passing bird represent the glad but transitory days of youth ! and in the hollow tree and hooting owl what a melan choly image of the decay and imbecility of old age ! In the beautiful language of an English poet, The Village of El Pardillo 223 " Your voiceless lips, O flowers, are living preachers, Each cup a pulpit, every leaf a book, Supplying to my fancy numerous teachers, From loneliest nook. " 'Neath cloistered boughs each floral bell that swingeth, And tolls its perfume on the passing air, Makes Sabbath in the fields, and ever ringeth A call to prayer ; " Not to the domes where crumbling arch and column Attest the feebleness of mortal hand, But to that fane most catholic and solemn Which God hath planned ; " To that cathedral, boundless as our wonder, Whose quenchless lamps the sun and moon supply, Its choir the winds and waves, its organ thunder, Its dome the sky. "There, amid solitude and shade, I wander Through the green aisles, and, stretched upon the sod, Awed by the silence, reverently ponder The ways of God. " But the traveller who journeys through the northern provinces of Spain will look in vain for the charms of rural scenery in the villages he passes. Instead of tr'.m -cottages, and gar dens, and the grateful shade of trees, he will see a cluster of stone hovels roofed with red tiles and basking in the hot sun, without a sin gle tree to lend him shade or shelter ; and in- 224 The Village of El Pardillo stead of green meadows and woodlands vocal with the song of birds, he will find bleak and rugged mountains, and vast extended plains, that stretch away beyond his ken. It was my good fortune, however, to find, not many leagues from the metropolis, a village which could boast the shadow of a few trees. El Pardillo is situated on the southern slope of the Guadarrama Mountains, just where the last broken spurs of the sierra stretch forward into the vast table-land of New Castile. The village itself, like most other Castilian villages, is only a cluster of weather-stained and dilapi dated houses, huddled together without beauty or regularity ; but the scenery around it is picturesque, a mingling of hill and dale, sprinkled with patches of cultivated land and clumps of forest-trees ; and in the background the blue, vapory outline of the Guadarrama Mountains melting into the sky. In this quiet place I sojourned for a season, accompanied by the publican Don Valentin and his fair daughter Florencia. We took up our abode in the cottage of a peasant named Lucas, an honest tiller of the soil, simple and good-natured ; or, in the more emphatic lan guage of Don Valentin, " un hombre muy infe- The Village of El Pardillo 225 Us, y sin malicia ninguna." Not so his wife Matina ; she was a Tartar, and so mettlesome withal, that poor Lucas skulked doggedly about his own premises, with his head down and his tail between his legs. In this little village my occupations were few and simple. My morning's walk was to the Cross of Espalmado, a large wooden cruci fix in the fields ; the day was passed with books, or with any idle companion I was lucky enough to catch by the button, and bribe with a cigar into a long story, or a little village gossip ; and I whiled away the evening in peeping round among the cottagers, study ing the beautiful landscape that spread before me, and watching the occasional gathering of a storm about the blue peaks of the Guadar- rama Mountains. My favorite haunt was a secluded spot in a little woodland valley, through which a crystal brook ran brawling along its pebbly channel. There, stretched in the shadow of a tree, I often passed the hours of noontide heat, now reading the magic num bers of Garcilaso, and anon listening to the song of the nightingale overhead ; or watch ing the toil of a patient ant, as he rolled his stone, like Sisyphus, up hill, or the flight of a 10* o 226 The Village of El Pardillo bee darting from flower to flower, and " hiding his murmurs in the rose." Blame me not, thou studious moralist, blame me not unheard for this idle dreaming ; such moments are not wholly thrown away. In the language of Goethe, " I lie down in the grass near a falling brook, and close to the earth a thousand varieties of grasses become perceptible. When I listen to the hum of the little world between the stubble, and see the countless indescribable forms of insects, I feel the presence of the Almighty who has created us, the breath of the All-benevolent who supports us in perpetual enjoyment." The village church, too, was a spot around which I occasionally lingered of an evening, when in pensive or melancholy mood. And here, gentle reader, thy imagination will straightway conjure up a scene of ideal beau ty, a village church with decent white washed walls, and modest spire just peeping forth from a clump of trees ! No ; I will not deceive thee ; the church of El Pardillo re sembles not this picture of thy well-tutored fancy. It is a gloomy little edifice, standing upon the outskirts of the village, and built of dark and unhewn stone, with a spire like a su- Tkc Village of El Par ditto 227 gar-loaf. There is no grass-plot in front, but a little esplanade beaten hard by the footsteps of the church-going peasantry. The tombstone of one of the patriarchs of the village serves as a doorstep, and a single solitary tree throws its friendly shade upon the portals of the little sanctuary. One evening, as I loitered around this spot, the sound of an organ and the chant of youth ful voices from within struck my ear ; the church door was ajar, and I entered. There stood the priest, surrounded by a group of children, who were singing a hymn to th^ Virgin : "Ave, Regina ccelorum, Ave, Domina angelorum. " There is something exceedingly thrilling in the voices of children singing. Though their music be unskilful, yet it finds its way to the heart with wonderful celerity. Voices of cher ubs are they, for they breathe of paradise ; clear, liquid tones, that flow from pure lips and innocent hearts, like the sweetest notes of a flute, or the falling of water from a fountain ! When the chant was finished, the priest opened a little book which he held in his hand, and began, with a voice as solemn as a 228 The Village of El Pardillo funeral bell, to question this class of roguish catechumens, whom he was initiating into the mysterious doctrines of the mother church. Some of the questions and answers were so curious that I cannot refrain from repeating them here ; and should any one doubt their authenticity, he will find them in the Spanish catechisms. " In what consists the mystery of the Holy Trinity ? " " In one God, who is three persons ; and three persons, who are but one God." "But tell me, three human persons, are they not three men ? " " Yes, father." "Then why are not three divine persons three Gods?" " Because three human persons have three human natures ; but the three divine persons have only one divine nature." " Can you explain this by an example ? " " Yes, father ; as a tree which has three branches is still but one tree, since all the three branches spring from one trunk, so the three divine persons are but one God, because they all have the same divine nature." "Where were these three divine persons The Village of El Pardillo 229 before the heavens and the earth were cre ated?" " In themselves." " Which of them was made man ? " " The Son." " And after the Son was made man, was he still God?" " Yes, father ; for in becoming man he did not cease to be God, any more than a man when he becomes a monk ceases to be a man." " How was the Son of God made flesh ? " " He was born of the most holy Virgin Mary." " And can we still call her a virgin ? " " Yes, father ; for as a ray of the sun may pass through a pane of glass, and the glass remain unbroken, so the Virgin Mary, after the birth of her son, was a pure and holy virgin as before." * * This illustration was also made use of during the dark ages. Pierre de Corbiac, a Troubadour of the thirteenth century, thus introduces it in a poem entitled " Prayer to the Virgin": ' ' Domna, verges pur' e fina Ans que fos 1' enfantamens, Et apres tot eissamens, De vos trais sa earn humana Jhesu-Christ nostre salvaire ; Si com ses trencamens faire Intra'l bel rais quan solelha Per la fenestra veirina." 230 The Vill.ig: of El Par ditto " Who died to save and redeem us ? " " The Son of God : as man, and not as God." " How could he suffer and die as man only, being both God and man, and yet but one per son ? " " As in a heated bar of iron upon which wa ter is thrown, the heat only is affected and not the iron, so the Son of God suffered in his human nature and not in his divine." "And when the spirit was separated from his most precious body, whither did the spirit go?" " To limbo, to glorify the souls of the holy fathers." "And the body?" " It was carried to the grave." " Did the divinity remain united with the spirit or with the body ? " "With both. As a soldier, when he un sheathes his sword, remains united both with the sword and the sheath, though they are sep arated from each other, so did the divinity re main united both with the spirit and the body of Christ, though the spirit was separated and removed from the body." I did not quarrel with the priest for having been born and educated in a different faith The Village of El Pardillo 231 from mine ; but as I left the church and saun tered slowly homeward, I could not help asking myself, in a whisper, " Why perplex the spirit of a child with these metaphysical subtilties, these dark, mysterious speculations, which man in all his pride of intellect cannot fathom or ex plain ? " I must not forget, in this place, to make honorable mention of the little great men of El Pardillo. And first in order comes the priest. He was a short, portly man, serious in manner, and of grave and reverend presence ; though at the same time there was a dash of the jolly-fat-friar about him ; and on hearing a good joke or a sly innuendo, a smile would gleam in his eye, and play over his round face, like the light of a glowworm. His house keeper was a brisk, smiling little woman, on the shady side of thirty, and a cousin of his to boot. Whenever she was mentioned, Don Valentin looked wise, as if this cousinship were apocryphal ; but he said nothing, not he ; what right had he to be peeping into other people's business, when he had only one eye to look after his own withal ? Next in rank to the Dominie was the Alcalde, justice of the peace and quorum ; a most potent, 232 The Village of El Par ditto grave, and reverend personage, with a long beak of a nose, and a pouch under his chin, like a pelican. He was a man of few words, but great in authority ; and his importance was vastly increased in the village by a pair of double-barrelled spectacles, so contrived, that, when bent over his desk and deeply buried in his musty papers, he could look up and see what was going on around him without mov ing his head, whereby he got the reputation of seeing twice as much as other people. There was the village surgeon, too, a tall man with a varnished hat and a starved dog ; he had stud ied at the University of Salamanca, and was pompous and pedantic, ever and anon quoting some threadbare maxim from the Greek phi losophers, and embellishing it with a commen tary of his own. Then there was the gray- headed Sacristan, who rang the church-bell, played on the organ, and was learned in tomb stone lore ; a Politician, who talked me to death' about taxes, liberty, and the days of the con stitution ; and a Notary Public, a poor man with a large family, who would make a paper cigar last half an hour, and who kept up his respectability in the village by keeping a horse. The Village of El Pardillo 233 Beneath the protecting shade of these great men full many an inhabitant of El Pardillo was born and buried. The village continued to flourish, a quiet, happy place, though all unknown to fame. The inhabitants were orderly and industrious, went regularly to mass and confession, kept every saint's day in the calendar, and devoutly hung Judas once a year in effigy. On Sundays and all other holidays, when mass was over, the time was devoted to sports and recreation ; and the day passed off in social visiting, and athletic exercises, such as running, leaping, wrestling, pitching quoits, and heaving the bar. When evening came, the merry sound of the guitar summoned to the dance ; then every nook and alley poured forth its youthful company, light of heart and heel, and decked out in all the holi day finery of flowers, and ribbons, and crimson sashes. A group gathered before the cottage- door ; the signal was given, and away whirled the merry dancers to the wild music of voice and guitar, and the measured beat of castanet and tambourine. I love these rural dances, from my heart I love them. This world, at best, is so full of care and sorrow, the life of a poor man is so 234 The Village of El Pardillo stained with the sweat of his brow, there is so much toil, and struggling, and anguish, and disappointment here below, that I gaze with delight on a scene where all these are laid aside and forgotten, and the heart of the toil- worn peasant seems to throw off its load, and to leap to the sound of music, when merrily, " beneath soft eve's consenting star, Fandango twirls his jocund castanet. " Not many miles from the village of El Par dillo stands the ruined castle of Villafranca, an ancient stronghold of the Moors of the fif teenth century. It is built upon the summit of a hill, of easy ascent upon one side, but pre cipitous and inaccessible on the other. The front presents a large, square tower, constitut ing the main part of the castle ; on one side of which an arched gateway leads to a spacious court-yard within, surrounded by battlements. The corner towers are circular, with beetling turrets ; and here and there, apart from the main body of the castle, stand several circular basements, whose towers have fallen and moul dered into dust. From the balcony in the square tower, the eye embraces the level land scape for leagues and leagues around ; and beneath, in the depth of the valley, lies a beau- The Village of El Pardillo 235 tiful grove, alive with the song of the nightin gale. The whole castle is in ruin, and occu pied only as a hunting-lodge, being inhabited by a solitary tenant, who has charge of the adjacent domain. One holiday, when mass was said and the whole village was let loose to play, we made a pilgrimage to the ruins of this old Moorish al cazar. Our cavalcade was as motley as that of old, the pilgrims " that toward Canterbury wolden ride" ; for we had the priest, and the doctor of physic, and the man of laws, and a wife of Bath, and many more whom I must leave unsung. Merrily flew the hours and fast ; and sitting after dinnei in the gloomy hall of that old castle, many a tale was told, and many a legend and tradition of the past conjured up to satisfy the curiosity of the present. Most of these tales were about the Moors who built the castle, and the treasures they had buried beneath it. Then the priest told the story of a lawyer who sold himself to the devil for a pot of money, and was burnt by the Holy Inquisition therefor. In his confession, he told how he had learned from a Jew the se cret of raising the devil ; how he went to the tastle at midnight with a book which the Jew 236 The Village of El Par ditto gave him, and, to make the charm sure, car ried with him a loadstone, six nails from the coffin of a child of three years, six tapers of rosewax, made by a child of four years, the skin and blood of a young kid, an iron fork, with which the kid had been killed, a few hazel- rods, a flask of high-proof brandy, and some lignum-vitae charcoal to make a fire. When he read in the book, the devil appeared in the shape of a man dressed in flesh-colored clothes, with long nails, and large fiery eyes, and he signed an agreement with him written in blood, promising never to go to mass, and to give him his soul at the end of eight years ; in return for this, he was to have a million of dollars in good money, which the devil was to bring to him the next night ; but when the next night came, and the lawyer had conjured from his book, instead of the devil, there ap peared who do you think ? the alcalde with half the village at his heels, and the poor lawyer was handed over to the Inquisition, and burnt for dealing in the black art I intended to repeat here some of the many tales that were told ; but, upon reflection, they seem too frivolous, and must therefore give place to a more serious theme. THE DEVOTIONAL POETRY OF SPAIN Heaven's dove, when highest he flies, Flies with thy heavenly wings. CRASHAW. r I ''HERE is hardly a chapter in literary his- -*- tory more strongly marked with the peculiarities of national character than that which contains the moral and devotional poetry of Spain. It would naturally be ex pected that in this department of literature all the fervency and depth of national feeling would be exhibited. But still, as the spirit of morality and devotion is the same, wherever it exists, as the enthusiasm of virtue and relig ion is everywhere essentially the same feeling, though modified in its degree and in its action by a variety of physical causes and local cir cumstances, and as the subject of the didac tic verse and the spiritual canticle cannot be materially changed by the change of nation and climate, it might at the first glance seem quite as natural to expect that the moral and 238 The Devotional Poetry of Spain devotional poetry of Christian countries would never be very strongly marked with national peculiarities. In other words, we should ex pect it to correspond to the warmth or cold ness of national feeling, for it is the external and visible expression of this feeling ; but not to the distinctions of national character, be cause, its nature and object being everywhere the same, these distinctions become swallowed up in one universal Christian character. In moral poetry this is doubtless true. The great principles of Christian morality being eternal and invariable, the verse which embod ies and represents them must, from this very circumstance, be the same in its spirit through all Christian lands. The same, however, is not necessarily true of devotional or religious poetry. There, the language of poetry is something more than the visible image of a devotional spirit. It is also an expression of religious faith ; shadowing forth, with greater or less distinctness, its various creeds and doc trines. As these are different in different na tions, the spirit that breathes in religious song, and the letter that gives utterance to the doc trine of faith, will not be universally the same. Thus, Catholic nations sing the praises of the The Devotional Poetry of Spain 239 Virgin Mary in language in which nations of the Protestant faith do not unite ; and among Protestants themselves, the difference of inter pretations, and the consequent belief or disbe lief of certain doctrines, give a various spirit and expression to religious poetry. And yet, in all, the devotional feeling,, the heavenward volition, is the same. As far, then, as peculiarities of religious faith exercise an influence upon intellectual habits, and thus become a part of national character, so far will the devotional or religious poetry of a country exhibit the characteristic peculiari ties resulting from this influence of faith, and its assimilation with the national mind. Now Spain is by pre-eminence the Catholic land of Christendom. Most of her historic recollec tions are more or less intimately associated with the triumphs of the Christian faith ; and many of her warriors of her best and brav est were martyrs in the holy cause, per ishing in that war of centuries which was car ried on within her own territories between the crescent of Mahomet and the cross of Christ. Indeed, the whole tissue of her history is inter woven with miraculous traditions. The inter vention of her patron saint has saved her hon- 240 The Devotional Poetry of Spain or in more than one dangerous pass ; and the war-shout of " Santiago, y cierra Espana ! " has worked like a charm upon the wavering spirit of the soldier. A reliance on the guardian ministry of the saints pervades the whole peo ple, and devotional offerings for signal preser vation in times of danger and distress cover the consecrated walls of churches. An enthusi asm of religious feeling, and of external ritual observances, prevails throughout the land. But more particularly is the name of the Vir gin honored and adored. Ave Maria is the salutation of peace at the friendly threshold, and the God-speed to the wayfarer. It is the evening orison, when the toils of day are done ; and at midnight it echoes along the sol itary streets in the voice of the watchman's cry. These and similar peculiarities of religious faith are breathing and moving through a large portion of the devotional poetry of Spain. It is not only instinct with religious feeling, but incorporated with "the substance of things not seen." Not only are the poet's lips touched with a coal from the altar, but his spirit is folded in the cloud of incense that rises before the shrines of the Virgin Mother, and the glorious company of the saints and The Devotional Poetry of Spain 24 1 martyrs. His soul is not wholly swallowed up in the contemplation of the sublime attributes of the Eternal Mind ; but, with its lamp trimmed and burning, it goeth out to meet the bridegroom, as if he were coming in a bodily presence. The history of the devotional poetry of Spain commences with the legendary lore of Maestro Gonzalo de Berceo, a secular priest, whose life was passed in the cloisters of a Ben edictine convent, and amid the shadows of the thirteenth century. The name of Berceo stands foremost on the catalogue of Spanish poets, for the author of the poem of the Cid is unknown. The old patriarch of Spanish poe try has left a monument of his existence in up wards of thirteen thousand alexandrines, cele brating the lives and miracles of saints and the Virgin, as he found them written in the Latin chronicles and dusty legends of his mon astery. In embodying these in rude verse in roman paladino, or the old Spanish romance tongue, intelligible to the common people, Fray Gonzalo seems to have passed his life. His writings are just such as we should expect from the pen of a monk of the thirteenth cen tury. They are more ghostly than poetical ; ii p 242 The Devotional Poetry of Spain and throughout, unction holds the place of inspiration. Accordingly, they illustrate very fully the preceding remarks ; and the more so, inasmuch as they are written with the most ample and childish credulity, and the utmost singleness of faith touching the events and miracles described. The following extract is taken from one of Berceo's poems, entitled " Vida de San Millan" It is a description of the miraculous appear ance of Santiago and San Millan, mounted on snow-white steeds, and fighting for the cause of Christendom, at the battle of Siman- cas in the Campo de Toro. " And when the kings were in the field, their squadrons in array, With lance in rest they onward pressed to mingle in the fray; But soon upon the Christians fell a terror of their foes, These were a numerous army, a little handful those. " And while the Christian people stood in this uncertainty, Upward to heaven they turned their eyes, and fixed their thoughts on high ; And there two figures they beheld, all beautiful and bright, Even than the pure new-fallen snow their garments were more white. " They rode upon two horses more white than crystal sheen, And arms they bore such as before no mortal man had seen ; The one, he held a crosier, a pontiff's mitre wore ; The other held a crucifix, such man ne'er saw before. The Devotional Poetry of Spain 243 "Their faces were angelical, celestial forms had they, And downward through the fields of air they urged their rapid way ; They looked upon the Moorish host with fierce and angry look, And in their hands, with dire portent, their naked sabres shook. " The Christian host, beholding this, straightway take heart again; They fall upon their bended knees, all resting on the plain, And each one with his clenched fist to smite his breast begins, And promises to God on high he will forsake his sins. "And when the heavenly knights drew near unto the battle ground, They dashed among the Moors and dealt unerring blows around ; Such deadly havoc there they made the foremost ranks along, A panic terror spread unto the hindmost of the throng. " Together with these two good knights, the champions of the sky, The Christians rallied and began to smite full sore and high ; The Moors raised up their voices and by the Koran swore That in their lives such deadly fray they near had seen before. " Down went the misbelievers, fast sped the bloody fight, Some ghastly and dismembered lay, and some half dead with fright : Full sorely they repented that to the field they came, For they saw that from the battle they should retreat with shame. 244 The Devotional Poetry of Spain " Another thing befell them, they dreamed not of such woes, The very arrows that the Moors shot from their twanging bows Turned back against them in their flight and wounded them full sore, And every blow they dealt the foe was paid in drops of gore. " Now he that bore the crosier, and the papal crown had on, Was the glorified Apostle, the brother of Saint John ; And he that held the crucifix, and wore the monkish hood, Was the holy San Millan of Cogolla's neighborhood." Berceo's longest poem is entitled Miraclos de Nuestra ScTwra, " Miracles of Our Lady." It consists of nearly four thousand lines, and con tains the description of twenty-five miracles. It is a complete homily on the homage and devotion due to the glorious Virgin, Madre de Jhu Xto, Mother of Jesus Christ ; but it is written in a low and vulgar style,* strikingly at variance with the elevated character of the subject. Thus, in the twentieth miracle, we have the account of a monk who became intox icated in a wine-cellar. Having lain on the floor till the vesper-bell aroused him, he stag gered off towards the church in most melan choly plight. The Evil One besets him on the way, assuming the various shapes of a bull, a dog, and a lion ; but from all these perils he is The Devotional Poetry of Spain 245 miraculously saved by the timely intervention of the Virgin, who, finding him still too much intoxicated to make his way to bed, kindly takes him by the hand, leads him to his pallet, covers him with a blanket and a counterpane, smooths his pillow, and, after making the sign of the cross over him, tells him to rest quietly, for sleep will do him good. To a certain class of minds there may be something interesting and even affecting in descriptions which represent the spirit of a de parted saint as thus assuming a corporeal shape, in order to assist and console human nature even in its baser infirmities ; but it ought also to be considered how much such descriptions tend to strip religion of its pecu liar sanctity, to bring it down from its heav enly abode, not merely to dwell among men, but, like an imprisoned culprit, to be chained to the derelict of principle, manacled with the base desire and earthly passion, and forced to do the menial offices of a slave. In descrip tions of this kind, as in the representations of our Saviour and of sainted spirits in human shape, execution must of necessity fall far short of the conception. The handiwork can not equal the glorious archetype, which is visi- 246 The Devotional Poetry of Spain ble only to the mental eye. Painting and sculpture are not adequate to the task of em bodying in a permanent shape the glorious visions, the radiant forms, the glimpses of heaven, which fill the imagination, when puri fied and exalted by devotion. The hand of man unconsciously inscribes upon all his works the sentence of imperfection, which the finger of the invisible hand wrote upon the wall of the Assyrian monarch. From this it would seem to be not only a natural but a necessary conclusion, that all the descriptions of poetry which borrow anything, either directly or indi rectly, from these bodily and imperfect repre sentations, must partake of their imperfection, and assume a more earthly and material char acter than these which come glowing and burning from the more spiritualized percep tions of the internal sense. It is very far from my intention to utter any sweeping denunciation against the divine arts of painting and sculpture, as employed in the exhibition of Scriptural scenes and personages. These I esteem meet ornaments for the house of God ; though, as I have already said, their execution cannot equal the high conceptions of an ardent imagination, yet, whenever the Los Devotional Poetry of Spain 247 fiand of a master is visible, when the marble almost moves before you, and the painting starts into life from the canvas, the effect upon an enlightened mind will generally, if not universally, be to quicken its sensibilities and excite to more ardent devotion, by carry ing the thoughts beyond the representations of bodily suffering, to the contemplation of the intenser mental agony, the moral sublimity exhibited by the martyr. The impressions produced, however, will not be the same in all minds ; they will necessarily vary according to the prevailing temper and complexion of the mind which receives them. As there is no sound where there is no ear to receive the im pulses and vibrations of the air, so is there no moral impression, no voice of instruction from all the works ol nature, and all the imita tions of art, unless there be within the soul itself a capacity for hearing the voice and receiving the moral impulse. The cause exists eternally and universally ; but the effect is pro duced only when and where the cause has room to act, and just in proportion as it has room to act. Hence the various moral im pressions, and the several degrees of the same moral impression, which an object may produce 248 The Devotional Poetry of Spain in different minds. These impressions will vary in kind and in degree according to the acuteness and the cultivation of the internal moral sense. And thus the representations spoken of above might exercise a very favor able influence upon an enlightened and well- regulated mind, and at the same time a very unfavorable influence upon an unenlightened and superstitious one. And the reason is obvious. An enlightened mind beholds all things in their just proportions, and receives from them the true impressions they are calcu lated to convey. It is not hoodwinked, it is not shut up in a gloomy prison, till it thinks the walls of its own dungeon the limits of the universe, and the reach of its own chain the outer verge of all intelligence ; but it walks abroad ; the sunshine and the air pour in to enlighten and expand it ; the various works of nature are its ministering angels ; the glad recipient of light and wisdom, it develops new powers and acquires increased capacities, and thus, rendering itself less subject to error, assumes a nearer similitude to the Eternal Mind. But not so the dark and superstitious mind. It is filled with its own antique and mouldy furniture, the moth-eaten tome, the The Devotional Poetry of Spain 249 gloomy tapestry, the dusty curtain. The strag gling sunbeam from without streams through the stained window, and as it enters assumes the colors of the painted glass ; while the half- extinguished fire within, now smouldering in its ashes, and now shooting forth a quivering flame, casts fantastic shadows through the chambers of the soul. Within the spirit sits, lost in its own abstractions. The voice of na ture from without is hardly audible ; her beau ties are unseen, or seen only in shadowy forms, through a colored medium, and with a strained and distorted vision. The invigorating air does not enter that mysterious chamber ; it visits not that lonely inmate, who, breathing only a close, exhausted atmosphere, exhibits in the languid frame and feverish pulse the marks of lingering, incurable disease. The picture is not too strongly sketched ; such is the contrast between the free and the superstitious mind. Upon the latter, which has little power over its ideas, to generalize them, to place them in their proper light and position, to reason upon, to discriminate, to judge them in detail, and thus to arrive at just conclusions ; but, on the contrary, receives every crude and inadequate impression as it first presents itself, and treas- 250 The Devotional Poetry of Spain ures it up as an ultimate fact, upon such a mind, representations of Scripture-scenes, like those mentioned above, exercise an unfavora ble influence. Such a mind cannot rightly estimate, it cannot feel, the work of a master ; and a miserable painting, or a still more mis erable caricature carved in wood, will serve only the more to drag the spirit down to earth. Thus, in the unenlightened mind, these repre sentations have a tendency to sensualize and desecrate the character of holy things. Being- brought constantly before the eye, and repre sented in a real and palpable form to the ex ternal senses, they lose, by being made too familiar, that peculiar sanctity with which the mind naturally invests the unearthly and invis ible. It is curious to observe the influence of the circumstances just referred to upon the devo tional poetry of Spain.* Sometimes it exhibits * The following beautiful Latin hymn, written by Francisco Xavier, the friend and companion of Loyola, and from his zeal in the Eastern missions surnamecl the Apostle of the In dies, would hardly have originated in any mind but that of one familiar with the representations of which I have spoken above. " O Deus ! ego amo te : Nee amo te, ut salves me, The Devotional Poetry of Spain 2 5 1 itself directly and fully, sometimes indirectly and incidentally, but always with sufficient Aut quia non amantes te ./Eterno punis igne. "Tu, tu, mi Jesu, totum me Amplexus es in cruce. Tulisti clavos, lanceam, Multamque ignominiam : Innumeros dolores, Sudores et angores, Ac mortem : et haec propter me Ac pro me peccatore. t " Cur igitur non amem te, O Jesu amantissime ? Non ut in coelo salves me, Aut ne selenium damnes me, Nee proemii ullius spe : Sed sicut tu amasti me, Sic amo et amabo te : Solum quia rex meus es, Et solum quia Deus es. Amen." " O God ! my spirit loves but thee : Not that in heaven its home may be, Nor that the souls which love not thee Shall groan in fire eternally. " But thou on the accursed tree In mercy hast embraced me. For me the cruel nails, the spear, The ignominious scoff, didst bear, 252 The Devotional Poetry of Spain clearness to indicate its origin. Sometimes it destroys the beauty of a poem by a miserable conceit ; at other times it gives it the charac ter of a beautiful allegory.* Countless, unutterable woes, The bloody sweat, death's pangs and throes, These thou didst bear, all these for me, A sinner and estranged from thee. " And wherefore no affection show, Jesus, to thee that lov'st me so ? Not that in heaven my home may be, Not lest I die eternally, Nor from the hopes of joys above me : But even as thou thyself didst love me, So love I, and will ever love thee : Solely because my King art thou, My God forevermore as now. Amen." * I recollect but few instances of this kind of figurative poetry in our language. There is, however, one of most ex quisite beauty and pathos, far surpassing anything I have seeo of the kind in Spanish. It is a passage from Cowper. " I was a stricken deer, that left the herd Long since : with many an arrow deep infixt My panting side was charged, when I withdrew To seek a tranquil death in distant shades. There was I found by one who had himself Been hurt by archers ; in his side he bore, And in his hands and feet, the cruel scars. With gentle force soliciting the darts, He drew them forth, and healed, and bade me live. " The Devotional Poetry of Spain 253 The following sonnets will serve as illustra tions. They are from the hand of the wonder ful Lope de Vega : " Shepherd ! that with thine amorous sylvan song Hast broken the slumber that encompassed me, That madest thy crook from the accursed tree On which thy powerful arms were stretched so long, Lead me to mercy's ever-flowing fountains, For thou my shepherd, guard, and guide shalt be, I will obey thy voice, and wait to see Thy feet all beautiful upon the mountains. Hear, Shepherd ! thou that for thy flock art dying, O, wash away these scarlet sins, for thou Rejoicest at the contrite sinner's vow. O, wait ! to thee my weary soul is crying, Wait for me ! yet why ask it, when I see, With feet nailed to the cross, thou art waiting still for me ? " " Lord, what am I, that with unceasing care Thou didst seek after me, that thou didst wait, Wet with unhealthy dews before my gate, And pass the gloomy nights of winter there ? O strange delusion ! that I did not greet Thy blessed approach ! and O, to Heaven how lost, If my ingratitude's unkindly frost Hast chilled the bleeding wounds upon thy feet ! How oft my guardian angel gently cried, ' Soul, from thy casement look without and see How he persists to knock and wait for thee ! ' And O, how often to that voice of sorrow, ' To-morrow we will open ! ' I replied ; And when the morrow came, I answered still, 'To-mor row!'" 254 Tke Devotional Postry of Spain The most remarkable portion of the devo tional poetry of the Spaniards is to be found in their sacred dramas, their Vidas de Santos and Autos Sacramentales. These had their origin in the Mysteries and Moralities of the dark ages, and are indeed monstrous creations of the imagination. The Vidas de Santos, or Lives of Saints, are representations of their miracles, and of the wonderful traditions con cerning them. The Autos Sacramentales have particular reference to the Eucharist and the ceremonies of the Corpus Christi. In these the atrical pieces are introduced upon the stage, not only angels and saints, but God, the Sav iour, the Virgin Mary ; and, in strange juxta position with these, devils, peasants, and kings ; in fine, they contain the strangest medley of characters, real and allegorical, which the im agination can conceive. As if this were not enough, in the midst of what was intended as a solemn, religious celebration, scenes of low buffoonery are often introduced. The most remarkable of the sacred dramas which I have read is La Devotion de la Cruz, "The Devotion of the Cross," by Calderon ; and it will serve as a specimen of that class of writ ing. The piece commences with a dialogue The Devotional Poetry of Spain 255 between Lisardo, the son of Curcio, a decayed nobleman, and Eusebio, the hero of the play and lover of Julia, Lisardo's sister. Though the father's extravagance has wasted his es tates, Lisardo is deeply offended that Eusebio should aspire to an alliance with the family, and draws him into a secluded place in order to settle their dispute with the sword. Here the scene opens, and, in the course of the dia logue which precedes the combat, Eusebio re lates that he was born at the foot of a cross, which stood in a rugged and desert part of those mountains ; that the virtue of this cross preserved him from the wild beasts ; that, be ing found by a peasant three days after his birth, he was carried to a neighboring vil lage, and there received the name of Eusebio of the Cross ; that, being thrown by his nurse into a well, he was heard to laugh, and was found floating upon the top of the water, with his hands placed upon his mouth in the form of a cross ; that the house in which he dwelt being consumed by fire, he escaped unharmed amid the flames, and it was found to be Cor pus Christi day ; and, in fine, after relating many other similar miracles, worked by the power of the cross, at whose foot he was born, 256 The Devotional Poetry of Spain he says that he bears its image miraculously stamped upon his breast. After this they fight, and Lisardo falls mortally wounded. In the next scene, Eusebio has an interview with Ju lia, at her father's house ; they are interrupted, and Eusebio conceals himself; Curcio enters, and informs Julia that he has determined to send her that day to a convent, that she may take the veil, "para ser de Cristo esposa." While they are conversing, the dead body of Lisardo is brought in by peasants, and Eusebio is declared to be the murderer. The scene closes by the escape of Eusebio. The second act, or Jornada, discovers Eusebio as the leader of a band of robbers. They fire upon a trav eller, who proves to be a priest, named Al berto, and who is seeking a spot in those solitudes wherein to establish a hermitage. The shot is prevented from taking effect by a book which the pious old man carries in his bosom, and which he says is a " treatise on the true origin of the divine and heavenly tree, on which, dying with courage and forti tude, Christ triumphed over death ; in fine, the book is called the ' Miracles of the Cross.' " They suffer the priest to depart unharmed, who in consequence promises Eusebio that he The Devotional Poetry of Spain 257 shall not die without confession, but that wher ever he may be, if he but call upon his name, he will hasten to absolve him. In the mean time, Julia retires to a convent, and Curcio goes with an armed force in pursuit of Euse- bio, who has resolved to gain admittance to Julia's convent. He scales the walls of the convent by night, and silently gropes his way along the corridor. Julia is discovered sleep ing in her cell, with a taper beside her. He is, however, deterred from executing his mali cious designs, by discovering upon her breast the form of a cross, similar to that which he bears upon his own, and "Heaven would not suffer him, though so great an offender, to lose his respect for the cross." To be brief, he leaps from the convent-walls and escapes to the mountains. Julia, counting her honor lost, having offended God, " como a Dios, y como a esfosa" pursues him, descends the ladder from the convent-wall, and, when she seeks to return to her cell, finds the ladder has been removed. In her despair, she accuses Heaven of having withdrawn its clemency, and vows to perform such deeds of wickedness as shall terrify both heaven and hell. The third jomada transports the scene back 258 The Devotional Poetry of Spain to the mountains. Julia, disguised in man's apparel, with her face concealed, is brought to Eusebio by a party of the banditti. She chal lenges him to single combat ; and he accepts the challenge, on condition that his antago nist shall declare who he is. Julia discovers herself; and relates several horrid murders she has committed since leaving the convent. Their interview is here interrupted by the en trance of banditti, who inform Eusebio that Curcio, with an armed force, from all the neighboring villages, is approaching. The at tack commences. Eusebio and Curcio meet, but a secret and mysterious sympathy pre vents them from fighting ; and a great num ber of peasants, coming in at this moment, rush upon Eusebio in a body, and he is thrown down a precipice. There Curcio discovers him, expiring with his numerous wounds. The cti- nouement of the piece commences. Curcio, moved by compassion, examines a wound in Eusebio's breast, discovers the mark of the cross, and thereby recognizes him to be his son. Eusebio expires, calling on the name of Alberto, who shortly after enters, as if lost in those mountains. A voice from the dead body of Eusebio calls his name. I shall here transcribe a part of the scene. The Devotional Poetry of Spain 259 ALBERTO. Homeward now from Rome returning, In the deep and silent pauses Of the night, upon this mountain I again have lost my way ! This must be the very region Where my life Eusebio gave me, And I fear from his marauders Danger threatens me to-day ! EUSEBIO. Ho ! Alberto ! ALBERTO. What breath is it Of a voice so full of terror, That aloud my name repeating Sounded then upon mine ear ? EUSEBIO. Ho ! Alberto ! ALBERTO. It pronounces Yet again my name ; methought it Came in this direction. Let me Go still nearer. GiL. Santo Dios ! 'T is Eusebio, and my terror Of all terrors is the greatest ! EUSEBIO. Ho ! Alberto ! ALBERTO. Nearer sounds it! O thou voice that ridest swift 260 The Devotional Poetry of Spain On the wind, my name repeating, Who art them ? EUSEBIO. Eusebio am I. Come, Alberto, hither hasten, Hither, where I buried lie ; Come, and lift aside these branches ; Do not fear. ALBERTO. No fear have I. GIL. I have ! ALBERTO (uncovering Eusebio). Now thou art uncovered, Tell me, in the name of God, What thou wishesL EUSEBIO. In his name 'T was my Faith, Alberto, called thee, So that ere my life be ended Thou shouldst hear me in confession. Long ago I should have died, For remained untenanted By the spirit this dead body ; But the mighty blow of death Only robbed it of its motion, Did not sever it asunder. He rises, Come where I may make confession Of my sins, Alberto, for they More are than the sands of ocean, Or the atoms in the sun ! So much doth avail with Heaven The Devotion of the Cross ! The Devotional Poetry of Spain 26 1 Eusebio then retires to confess himself to Al berto ; and Curcio afterward relates, that, when the venerable saint had given him absolution, his body again fell dead at his feet. Julia dis covers herself, overwhelmed with the thoughts of her passion for Eusebio and her other crimes, and as Curcio, in a transport of indignation, endeavors to kill her, she seizes a cross which stands over Eusebio's grave, and with it as cends to heaven, while Alberto shouts, " Gran milagro ! " and the curtain falls. Thus far I have spoken of the devotional poetry of Spain as modified by the peculiari ties of religious faith and practice. Consid ered apart from the dogmas of a creed, and as the expression of those pure and elevated feel ings of religion which are not the prerogative of any one sect or denomination, but the com mon privilege of all, it possesses strong claims to our admiration and praise. I know of noth ing in any modern tongue so beautiful as some of its finest passages. The thought springs heavenward from the soul, the lan guage comes burning from the lip. The imag ination of the poet seems spiritualized ; with nothing of earth, and all of heaven, a heaven like that of his own native clime, without a 262 The Devotional Poetry of Spain cloud, or a vapor of earth, to obscure its brightness. His voice, speaking the harmo nious accents of that noble tongue, seems to flow from the lips of an angel, melodious to the ear and to the internal sense, breathing those "Effectual whispers, whose still voice The soul itself more feels than hears. " The following sonnets of Francisco de Alda- na, a writer remarkable for the beauty of his conceptions and the harmony of his verse, are illustrations of this remark. In what glowing language he describes the aspirations of the soul for its paternal heaven, its celestial home ! how beautifully he portrays in a few lines the strong desire, the ardent longing, of the exiled and imprisoned spirit to wing its flight away and be at rest ! The strain bears our thoughts upward with it ; it transports us to the heav enly country ; it whispers to the soul, High er, immortal spirit ! higher ! " Clear fount of light ! my native land on high, Bright with a glory that shall never fade ! Mansion of truth ! without a veil or shade, Thy holy quiet meets the spirit's eye. There dwells the soul in its ethereal essence, Gasping no longer for life's feeble breath ; But, sentinelled in heaven, its glorious presence With pitying eye beholds, yet fears not deatk The Devotional Poetry of Spain 263 Beloved country ! banished from thy shore, A stranger in this prison-house of clay, The exiled spirit weeps and sighs for thee ! Heavenward the bright perfections I adore Direct, and the sure promise cheers the way, That whither love aspires, there shall my dwelling be." " O Lord ! that seest from yon starry height Centred in one the future and the past, Fashioned in thine own image, see how fast The world obscures in me what once was bright ! Eternal Sun ! the warmth which thou hast given To cheer life's flowery April fast decays ; Yet in the hoary winter of my days, Forever green shall be my trust in Heaven. Celestial King ! O, let thy presence pass Before my spirit, and an image fair Shall meet that look of mercy from on high, As the reflected image in a glass Doth meet the look of him who seeks it there, And owes its being to the gazer's eye." The prevailing characteristics of Spanish devotional poetry are warmth of imagination, and depth and sincerity of feeling. The con ception is always striking and original, and, when not degraded by dogmas, and the poor, puerile conceits arising from them, beautiful and sublime. This results from the frame and temperament of the mind, and is a general characteristic of the Spanish poets, not only in this department of song, but in all others. The very ardor of imagination which, exercised up- 264 The Devotional Poetry of Spain on minor themes, leads them into extravagance and hyperbole, when left to act in a higher and wider sphere conducts them nearer and nearer to perfection. When imagination spreads its wings in the bright regions of devotional song, in the pure empyrean, judgment should direct its course, but there is no danger of its soaring too high. The heavenly land still lies beyond its utmost flight. There are heights it cannot reach ; there are fields of air which tire its wing ; there is a splendor which dazzles its vision ; for there is a glory " which eye hath not seen, nor ear heard, nor hath it entered into the heart of man to conceive." But perhaps the greatest charm of the devo tional poets of Spain is their sincerity. Most of them were ecclesiastics, men who had in sober truth renounced the realities of this life for the hopes and promises of another. We are not to suppose that all who take holy orders are saints ; but we should be still far ther from believing that all are hypocrites. It would be even more absurd to suppose that none are sincere in their professions than that all are. Besides, with whatever feelings a man may enter the monastic life, there is something in its discipline and privations which has a tendency to wean the mind from earth, and The Devotional Poetry of Spain 265 to fix it upon heaven. Doubtless many have seemingly renounced the world from motives of worldly aggrandizement ; and others have renounced it because it has renounced them. The former have carried with them to the cloister their earthly ambition, and the latter their dark misanthropy ; and though many have daily kissed the cross and yet grown hoary in iniquity, and shrived their souls that they might sin more gayly on, yet solitude works miracles in the heart, and many who enter the cloister from worldly motives find it a school wherein the soul may be trained to more holy purposes and desires. There is not half the corruption and hypocrisy within the convent's walls that the church bears the shame of hiding there. Hermits may be holy men, though knaves have sometimes been her mits. Were they all hypocrites, who of old for their souls' sake exposed their naked bodies to the burning sun of Syria ? Were they, who wandered houseless in the solitudes of Engaddi ? Were they who dwelt beneath the palm-trees by the Red Sea ? O, no ! They were ignorant, they were deluded, they were fanatic, but they were not hypocrites ; if there be any sincerity in human professions 266 The Devotional Poetry of Spain and human actions, they were not hypocrites. During the Middle Ages, there was corrup tion in the Church, foul, shameful corrup tion ; and now also hypocrisy may scourge it self in feigned repentance, and ambition hide its face beneath a hood ; yet all is not there fore rottenness that wears a cowl. Many a pure spirit, through heavenly-mindedness, and an ardent though mistaken zeal, has fled from the temptations of the world to seek in solitude and self-communion a closer walk with God. And not in vain. They have found the peace they sought. They have felt, indeed, what many profess to feel, but do not feel, that they are strangers and sojourners here, travel lers who are bound for their home in a far country. It is this feeling which I speak of as giving a peculiar charm to the devotional poe try of Spain. Compare its spirit with the spirit which its authors have exhibited in their lives. They speak of having given up the world, and it is no poetical hyperbole ; they speak of longing to be free from the weakness of the flesh, that they may commence their conversation in heaven, and we feel that they had already begun it in lives of peni tence, meditation, and prayer. THE PILGRIM'S BREVIARY If thou vouchsafe to read this treatise, it shall seem no otherwise to thee than the way to an ordinary traveller, sometimes fair, sometimes foul ; here champaign, there enclosed ; barren in one place, better soyle in an other ; by woods, groves, hills, dales, plains, I shall lead thee. BURTON'S ANATOMIE OF MELANCHOLY. THE glittering spires and cupolas of Ma drid have sunk behind me. Again and again I have turned to take a parting look, till at length the last trace of the city has disap peared, and I gaze only upon the sky above it. And now the sultry day is passed ; the freshening twilight falls, and the moon and the evening star are in the sky. This river is the Xarama. This noble avenue of trees leads to Aranjuez. Already its lamps begin to twinkle in the distance. The hoofs of our weary mules clatter upon the wooden bridge ; the public square opens before us ; yonder, in the moonlight, gleam the walls of the royal palace, and near it, with a rushing sound, fall the waters of the Tagus. 268 The Pilgritrfs Breviary WE have now entered the vast and melan choly plains of La Mancha, a land to which the genius of Cervantes has given a vulgo-clas- sic fame. Here are the windmills, as of old ; every village has its Master Nicholas, every venta its Maritornes. Wondrous strong are the spells of fiction ! A few years pass away, and history becomes romance, and romance, history. To the peasantry of Spain, Don Quixote and his squire are historic person ages ; and woe betide the luckless wight who unwarily takes the name of Dulcinea upon his lips within a league of El Toboso ! The trav eller, too, yields himself to the delusion ; and as he traverses the arid plains of La Mancha, pauses with willing credulity to trace the foot steps of the mad Hidalgo, with his "velvet breeches on a holiday, and slippers of the same." The high-road from Aranjuez to Cor dova crosses and recrosses the knight-errant's path. Between Manzanares and Valdepenas stands the inn where he was dubbed a knight ; to the northward, the spot where he encoun tered the windmills ; to the westward, the inn where he made the balsam of Fierabras, the scenes of his adventures with the fulling- mills, and his tournament with the barber ; and The Pilgriwts Breviary 269 to the southward, the Sierra Morena, where he did penance, like the knights of olden time. For my own part, I confess that there are seasons when I am willing to be the dupe of my imagination ; and if this harmless folly but lends its wings to a dull-paced hour, I am even ready to believe a fairy tale. ON the fourth day of our journey we dined at Manzanares, in an old and sombre-looking inn, which, I think, some centuries back, must have been the dwelling of a grandee. A wide gateway admitted us into the inn-yard, which was a paved court, in the centre of the edifice, surrounded by a colonnade, and open to the sky above. Beneath this colonnade we were shaved by the village barber, a supple, smooth faced Figaro, with a brazen laver and a gray montera cap. There, too, we dined in the open air, with bread as white as snow, and the rich red wine of Valdepenas ; and there, in the listlessness of after-dinner, smoked the sleep- inviting cigar, while in the court-yard before us the muleteers danced a fandango with the maids of the inn, to such music as three blind 270 The Pilgrim's Breviary musicians could draw from a violin, a guitar, and a clarinet. When this scene was over, and the blind men had groped their way out of the yard, I fell into a delicious slumber, from which I was soon awakened by music of another kind. It was a clear, youthful voice, singing a national song to the sound of a gui tar. I opened my eyes, and near me stood a tall, graceful figure, leaning against one of the pillars of the colonnade, in the attitude of a serenader. His dress was that of a Spanish student. He wore a black gown and cassock, a pair of shoes made of an ex-pair of boots, and a hat in the shape of a half-moon, with the handle of a wooden spoon sticking out on one side like a cockade. When he had finished his song, we invited him to the rem nant of a Vich sausage, a bottle of Valdepe- nas, bread at his own discretion, and a pure Havana cigar. The stranger made a leg, and accepted these signs of good company with the easy air of a man who is accustomed to earn his livelihood by hook or by crook; and as the wine was of that stark and generous kind which readily " ascends one into the brain," our gentleman with the half-moon hat grew garrulous and full of anecdote, and soon The Pilgrim? s Breviary 271 told us his own story, beginning with his birth and parentage, like the people in Gil Bias. " I am the son of a barber," quoth he ; " and first saw the light some twenty years ago, in the great city of Madrid. At a very early age, I was taught to do something for myself, and began my career of gain by carrying a slow- match in the Prado, for the gentlemen to light their cigars with, and catching the wax that dropped from the friars' tapers at funerals and other religious processions. " At school I was noisy and unruly ; and was finally expelled for hooking the master's son with a pair of ox-horns, which I had tied to my head, in order to personate the bull in a mock bull-fight. Soon after this my father died, and I went to live with my maternal un cle, a curate in Fuencarral. He was a man of learning, and resolved that I should be like him. He set his heart upon making a phy sician of me ; and to this end taught me Latin and Greek. " In due time I was sent to the University of Alcala. Here a new world opened before me. What novelty, what variety, what excitement ! But, alas ! three months were hardly gone, when news came that my wor- 272 The Pilgrints Breviary thy uncle had passed to a better world. I was now left to shift for myself. I was penni less, and lived as I could, not as I would. I became a sopista, a soup-eater, a knight of the wooden spoon. I see you do not under stand me. In other words, then, I became one of that respectable body of charity scholars who go armed with their wooden spoons to eat the allowance of eleemosynary soup which is daily served out to them at the gate of the convents. I had no longer house nor home. But necessity is the mother of invention. I became a hanger-on of those who were more fortunate than myself; studied in other peo ple's books, slept in other people's beds, and breakfasted at other people's expense. This course of life has been demoralizing, but it has quickened my wits to a wonderful degree. " Did you ever read the life of the Gran Ta- cano, by Quevedo ? In the first book you have a faithful picture of life in a Spanish University. What was true in his day is true in ours. O Alcald ! Alcala ! if your walls had tongues as well as ears, what tales could they repeat ! what midnight frolics ! what madcap revelries ! what scenes of merriment and mis chief ! How merry is a student's life, and yet The Pilgrims Breviary 273 how changeable ! Alternate feasting and fast ing, alternate Lent and Carnival, alter nate want and extravagance ! Care given to the winds, no thought beyond the pass ing hour ; yesterday, forgotten, to-morrow, a word in an unknown tongue ! " Did you ever hear of raising the dead ? not literally, but such as the student raised, when he dug for the soul of the licentiate Pe dro Garcias, at the fountain between Penafiel and Salamanca, money ? No ? Well, it is done after this wise. Gambling, you know, is our great national vice ; and then gamblers are so dishonest ! Now, our game is to cheat the cheater. We go at night to some noted gaming-house, five or six of us in a body. We stand around the table, watch those that are at play, and occasionally put in a trifle ourselves to avoid suspicion. At length the favorable moment arrives. Some eager play er ventures a large stake. I stand behind his chair. He wins. As quick as thought, I stretch my arm over his shoulder and seize the glittering prize, saying very coolly, ' I have won at last.' My gentleman turns round in a passion, and I meet his indignant glance with a look of surprise. He storms,, and I expostu- 12* R 274 The Pilgriwts Breviary late ; he menaces, I heed his menaces no more than the buzzing of a fly that has burnt his wings in my lamp. He calls the whole table to witness ; but the whole table is busy, each with his own gain or loss, and there stand my comrades, all loudly asserting that the stake was mine. What can he do ? there was a mistake ; he swallows the affront as best he may, and we bear away the booty. This we call raising the dead. You say it is dis graceful, dishonest. Our maxim is, that all is fair among sharpers ; Baylar al son que se toca, Dance to any tune that is fiddled. Be sides, as I said before, poverty is demoralizing. One loses the nice distinctions of right and wrong, of mewn and tuum. " Thus merrily pass the hours of term-time. When the summer vacations come round, I sling my guitar over my shoulder, and with a light heart, and a lighter pocket, scour the country, like a strolling piper or a mendicant friar. Like the industrious ant, in summer I provide for winter ; for in vacation we have time for reflection, and make the great discov ery, that there is a portion of time called the future. I pick up a trifle here and a trifle there, in all the towns and villages through The Pilgrim 's Breviary 275 which I pass, and before the end of my tour I find myself quite rich for the son of a barber. This we call the vida tunantesca, a rag-tag-and-bobtail sort of life. And yet the vocation is as honest as that of a begging Franciscan. Why not ? " And now, gentlemen, having dined at your expense, with your leave I will put this loaf of bread and the remains of this excellent Vich sausage into my pocket, and, thanking you for your' kind hospitality, bid you a good after noon. God be with you, gentlemen ! " IN general, the aspect of La Mancha is des olate and sad. Around you lies a parched and sunburnt plain, which, like the ocean, has no limits but the sky ; and straight before you, for many a weary league, runs the dusty and level road, without the shade of a single tree. The villages you pass through are poverty- stricken and half-depopulated ; and the squal id inhabitants wear a look of misery that makes the heart ache. Every league or two, the ruinc of a post-house, or a roofless cottage with shattered windows and blackened walls, tells a sad tale of the last war. It was there 276 The Pilgrirrfs Breviary that a little band of peasantry made a des perate stand against the French, and perished by the bullet, the sword, or the bayonet. The lapse of many years has not changed the scene, nor repaired the battered wall ; and at almost every step the traveller may pause and exclaim : " Here was the camp, the watch-flame, and the host ; Here the bold peasant stormed the dragon's nest. " From Valdepefias southward the country wears a more lively and picturesque aspect. The landscape breaks into hill and valley, cov ered with vineyards and olive-fields ; and be fore you rise the dark ridges of the Sierra Morena, lifting their sullen fronts into a heav en all gladness and sunshine. Ere long you enter the wild mountain-pass of Despena- Perros. A sudden turn in the road brings you to a stone column, surmounted by an iron cross, marking the boundary line be tween La Mancha and Andalusia. Upon one side of this column is carved a sorry-looking face, not unlike the death's-heads on the tomb stones of a country church-yard. Over it is written this inscription : " EL VERDADERO RETRATO DE LA SANTA CARA DEL DIGS DE XAEN," The true portrait of the holy coun- The Pilgrints Breviary 277 tenance of the God of Xaen ! I was so much struck with this strange superscription that I stopped to copy it. " Do you really believe that this is what it pretends to be ? " said I to a muleteer, who was watching my movements. " I don't know," replied he, shrugging his brawny shoulders ; " they say it is." " Who says it is ? " " The priest, the Padre Cura." " I supposed so. And how was this por trait taken ? " He could not tell. The Padre Cura knew all about it. When I joined my companions, who were a little in advance of me with the carriage, I got the mystery explained. The Catholic Church boasts of three portraits of our Saviour, mirac ulously preserved upon the folds of a hand kerchief, with which St. Veronica wiped the sweat from his brow, on the day of the cruci fixion. One of these is at Toledo, another in the kingdom of Xaen, and the third at Rome. THE impression which this monument of superstition made upon my mind was soon 278 The Pilgriiris Breviary effaced by the magnificent scene which now burst upon me. The road winds up the mountain-side with gradual ascent ; wild, shapeless, gigantic crags overhang it upon the right, and upon the left the wary foot starts back from the brink of a fearful chasm hundreds of feet in depth. Its sides are black with ragged pines, and rocks that have top pled down from above ; and at the bottom, scarcely visible, wind the silvery waters of a little stream, a tributary of the Guadalquivir. The road skirts the ravine fcr miles, now climbing the barren rock, and now sliding gently downward into shadowy hollows, and crossing some rustic bridge thrown over a wild mountain-brook. At length the scene changed. We stood upon the southern slope of the Sierra, and looked down upon the broad, luxuriant val leys of Andalusia, bathed in the gorgeous splendor of a southern sunset. The land scape had already assumed the " burnished livery " of autumn ; but the air I breathed was the soft and balmy breath of spring, the eternal spring of Andalusia. If ever you should be fortunate enough to visit this part of Spain stop for the night at The Pilgrirrfs Breviary 279 the village of La Carolina. It is indeed a model for all villages, with its broad streets, its neat, white houses, its spacious market place surrounded with a colonnade, and its public walk ornamented with fountains and set out with luxuriant trees. I doubt whether all Spain can show a village more beautiful than this. THE approach to Cordova from the east is enchanting. The sun was just rising as we crossed the Guadalquivir and drew near to the city ; and, alighting from the carriage, I pur sued my way on foot, the better to enjoy the scene and the pure morning air. The dew still glistened on every leaf and spray ; for the burn ing sun had not yet climbed the tall hedge-row of wild figs and aloes which skirts the roadside. The highway wound along through gardens, orchards, and vineyards, and here and there above me towered the glorious palm in all its leafy magnificence. On my right, a swell ing mountain-ridge, covered with verdure and sprinkled with little white hermitages, looked forth towards the rising sun ; and on the left, in a long, graceful curve, swept the bright wa ters of the Guadalquivir, pursuing their silent 280 The Pilgrim 's Breviary journey through a verdant reach of soft low land landscape. There, amid all the luxuri ance of this sunny clime, arises the ancient city of Cordova, though stripped, alas ! of its former magnificence. All that reminds you of the past is the crumbling wall of the city, and a Saracen mosque, now changed to a Chris tian cathedral. The stranger, who is familiar with the history of the Moorish dominion in Spain, pauses with a sigh, and asks himself, Is this the imperial city of Alhakam the Just, and Abdoulrahman the Magnificent ? THIS, then, is Seville, that "pleasant city, famous for oranges and women." After all I have heard of its beauty, I am disappointed in finding it less beautiful than my imagination had painted it. The wise saw, " Quien no ha visto Se villa, No ha visto mara villa," He who has not seen Seville has seen no marvel, is an Andalusian gasconade. This, however, is the judgment of a traveller weary and wayworn with a journey of twelve succes sive days in a carriage drawn by mules ; and I am well aware how much our opinions of The Pilgrims Breviary 281 men and things are colored by these trivial ills. A sad spirit is like a rainy day ; its mists and shadows darken the brightest sky, and clothe the fairest landscape in gloom. I am, likewise, a disappointed man in an other respect. I have come all the way from Madrid to Seville without being robbed ! And this, too, when I journeyed at a snail's pace, and had bought a watch large enough for the clock of a village church, for the express pur pose of having it violently torn from me by a fierce-whiskered highwayman, with his blun derbuss and his, " Boca abajo, ladrones ! " If I print this in a book, I am undone. What ! travel in Spain and not be robbed ! To be sure, I came very near it more than once. Al most every village we passed through had its tale to tell of atrocities committed in the neighborhood. In one place, the stage-coach had been stopped and plundered ; in another, a man had been murdered and thrown into ihe river ; here and there a rude wooden cross and a shapeless pile of stones marked the spot where some unwary traveller had met his fate ; and at night, seated around the blazing hearth of the inn-kitchen, my fellow-travellers would converse in a mysterious undertone of the dan- 282 The Pilgrints Breviary gers we were to pass through on the morrow. But the morrow came and went, and, alas ! neither salteador, nor ratero moved a finger. At one place, we were a day too late ; at an other, a day too early. I am now at the Fonda de los Americanos. My chamber-door opens upon a gallery, be neath which is a little court paved with mar ble, having a fountain in the centre. As I write, I can just distinguish the tinkling of its tiny jet, falling into the circular basin with a murmur so gentle that it scarcely breaks the silence of the night. At day-dawn I start for Cadiz, promising myself a pleasant sail down the Guadalquivir. All I shall be able to say of Seville is what I have written above, that it is " a pleasant city, famous for oranges and women." I AM at length in Cadiz. I came across the bay yesterday morning in an open boat from Santa Maria, and have established myself in very pleasant rooms, which look out upon the Plaza de San Antonio, the public square of the city. The morning sun awakes me, and at evening the sea-breeze comes in at my window. The Pilgrim! s Breviary 283 At night the square is lighted by lamps sus pended from the trees, and thronged with a brilliant crowd of the young and gay. Cadiz is beautiful almost beyond imagina tion. The cities of our dreams are not more enchanting. It lies like a delicate sea-shell upon the brink of the ocean, so wondrous fair that it seems not formed for man. In sooth, the Paphian queen, born of the feathery sea- foam, dwells here. It is the city of beauty and of love. The women of Cadiz are world-renowned for their loveliness. Surely earth has none more dazzling than a daughter of that bright, burn ing clime. What a faultless figure ! what a dainty foot ! what dignity ! what matchless grace ! " What eyes, what lips, what everything about her ! How like a swan she swims her pace, and bears Her silver breasts ! " The Gaditana is not ignorant of her charms. She knows full well the necromancy of a smile. You see it in the flourish of her fan, a magic wand, whose spell is powerful ; you see it in her steady gaze, the elastic step, ' ' The veil, Thrown back a moment with the glancing hand, 284 The Pilgrim 's Breviary While the o'erpowering eye, that turns you pale, Flashes into the heart" When I am grown old and gray, and sit by the fireside wrapped in flannels, if, in a listless moment, recalling what is now the present, but will then be the distant and almost forgot ten past, I turn over the leaves of this journal till my watery eye falls upon the page I have just written, I shall smile at the enthusiasm with which I have sketched this portrait. And where will then be the bright forms that now glance before me, like the heavenly crea tions of a dream ? All gone, all gone ! Or, if perchance a few still linger upon earth, they will be bowed with age and sorrow, saying their paternosters with a tremulous voice. Old age is a Pharisee ; for he makes broad his phylacteries, and wears them upon his brow, inscribed with prayer, but in the " crook ed autograph " of a palsied hand. " I see with pain," says Madame de Pompadour, "that there is nothing durable upon earth. We bring into the world a fair face, and lo ! in less than thirty years it is covered with wrinkles ; after which a woman is no longer good for anything." Were I to translate these sombre reflections The Pilgrints Breviary 285 into choice Castilian, and read them to the bright-eyed maiden who is now leaning over the balcony opposite, she would laugh, and laughing say, " Cuando el demonio es viejo, se metefrayle." THE devotion paid at the shrine of the Vir gin is one of the most prominent and charac teristic features of the Catholic religion. In Spain it is one of its most attractive features. In the southern provinces, in Granada and in Andalusia, which the inhabitants call " La ti- erra de Maria Santhima" the land of the most holy Mary, this adoration is ardent and enthusiastic. There is one of its outward observances which struck me as peculiarly beautiful and impressive. I refer to the Ave Maria, an evening service of the Virgin. Just as the evening twilight commences, the bell tolls to prayer. In a moment, throughout the crowded city, the hum of business is hushed, the thronged streets are still ; the gay multi tudes that crowd the public walks stand mo tionless ; the angry dispute ceases ; the laugh of merriment dies away ; life seems for a mo ment to be arrested in its career, and to stand 286 The Pilgrim's Breviary still. The multitude uncover their heads, and, with the sign of the cross, whisper their even ing prayer to the Virgin. Then the bells ring a merrier peal ; the crowds move again in the streets, and the rush and turmoil of business recommence. I have always listened with feelings of solemn pleasure to the bell that sounded forth the Ave Maria. As it an nounced the close of day, it seemed also to call the soul from its worldly occupations to repose and devotion. There is something beautiful in thus measuring the march of time. The hour, too, naturally brings the heart into unison with the feelings and sentiments of de votion. The close of the day, the shadows of evening, the calm of twilight, inspire a feeling of tranquillity ; and though I may differ from the Catholic in regard to the object of his sup plication, yet it seems to me a beautiful and appropriate solemnity, that, at the close of each daily epoch of life, which, if it have not been fruitful in incidents to ourselves, has, nevertheless, been so to many of the great hu man family, the voice of a whole people, and of the whole world, should go up to heaven in praise, and supplication, and thankfulness. The Pilgrim's Breviary 287 ' ' THE Moorish king rides up and down Through Granada's royal town \ From Elvira's gates to those Of Bivarambla on he goes. Woe is me, Alhama ! " Thus commences one of the fine old Span ish ballads, commemorating the downfall of the city of Alhama, where we have stopped to rest our horses on their fatiguing march from Velez-Malaga to Granada. Alhama was one of the last strongholds of the Moslem power in Spain. Its fall opened the way for the Chris tian army across the Sierra Nevada, and spread consternation and despair through the city of Granada. The description in the old ballad is highly graphic and beautiful ; and its beauty is well preserved in the spirited English translation by Lord Byron. As we crossed the Sierra Nevada, the snowy mountains that look down upon the luxuriant Vega of Granada, we overtook a solitary rider, who was singing a wild national song, to cheer the loneliness of his journey. He was an ath letic man, and rode a spirited horse of the Arab breed. A black bearskin jacket covered his broad shoulders, and around his waist was 288 The Pilgrim's Breviary wound the crimson fa/a, so universally worn by the Spanish peasantry. His velvet breeches reached below his knee, just meeting a pair of leather gaiters of elegant workmanship. A gay silken handkerchief was tied round his head, and over this he wore the little round Andalusian hat, decked out with a profusion of tassels of silk and bugles of silver. The steed he mounted was dressed no less gayly than his rider. There was a silver star upon his fore head, and a bright-colored woollen tassel be tween his ears ; a blanket striped with blue and red covered the saddle, and even the Moorish stirrups were ornamented with brass studs. This personage was a contrabandista, a smuggler between Granada and the seaport of Velez-Malaga. The song he sung was one of the popular ballads of the country. " Worn with speed is my good steed, And I march me hurried, worried ; Onward ! caballito mio, With the white star in thy forehead ! Onward ! for here conies the Ronda, And I hear their rifles crack ! Ay, jaleo ! Ay, ay, jaleo ! Ay, jaleo ! they cross our track ! " * * I here transcribe the original of which this is a single stanza. Its only merit is simplicity, and a certain grace which The Pilgrints Breviary 289 The air to which these words are sung is wild and high ; and the prolonged and mourn ful cadence gives it the sound of a funeral wail, or a cry for help. To have its full effect upon the mind, it should be heard by night, in some wild mountain-pass, and from a distance. belongs to its provincial phraseology, and which would be lost in a translation. " Yo que soy contrabandista, Y campo por mi respeto, A todos los desafio, Porque a naide tengo mieo. i Ay, jaleo ! j Muchachas, jaleo ! i Quien me compra jilo negro ? " Mi caballo esta cansao, Y yo me marcho corriendo. ; Anda, caballito mio, Caballo mio care to ! i Anda, que viene la ronda, Y se mueve el tiroteo ! j Ay, jaleo ! i Ay, ay, jaleo ! i Ay, jaleo, que nos cortan ! Sacame de aqueste aprieto. " Mi caballo ya no corre, Ya mi caballo paro. Todo para en este mundo, Tambien he de parar yo. ;Ay, jaleo ! ; Muchachas, jaleo I i Quien me compra jilo negro ? " 13 * 290 The Pilgrints Breviary Then the harsh tones come softened to the ear, and, in unison with the hour and the scene, produce a pleasing melancholy. The contrabandista accompanied us to Gra nada. The sun had already set when we en tered the Vega, those luxuriant meadows which stretch away to the south and west of the city, league after league of rich, unbroken verdure. It was Saturday night ; and, as the gathering twilight fell around us, and one by one the lamps of the city twinkled in the dis tance, suddenly kindling here and there, as the stars start to their places in the evening sky, a loud peal of bells rang forth its glad welcome to the day of rest, over the meadows to the distant hills, " swinging slow, with sol emn roar." Is this reality and not a dream ? Am I in deed in Granada ? Am I indeed within the walls of that earthly paradise of the Moorish kings ? How my spirit is stirred within me ! How my heart is lifted up ! How my thoughts are rapt away in the visions of other days ! Ave, Maria purissima ! It is midnight. The bell has tolled the hour from the watch- tower of the Alhambra ; and the silent street Tke Pilgrim's Breviary 291 echoes only to the watchman's cry, Ave, Ma ria purissima ! I am alone in my chamber, sleepless, spell-bound by the genius of the place, entranced by the beauty of the star lit night. As I gaze from my window, a sud den radiance brightens in the east. It is the moon, rising behind the Alhambra. I can faintly discern the dusky and indistinct out line of a massive tower, standing amid the un certain twilight, like a gigantic shadow. It changes with the rising moon, as a palace in the clouds, and other towers and battlements arise, every moment more distinct, more pal pable, till now they stand between me and the sky, with a sharp outline, distant, and yet so near that I seem to sit within their shadow. Majestic spirit of the night, I recognize thee! Thou hast conjured up this glorious vis ion for thy votary. Thou hast baptized me with thy baptism. Thou hast nourished my soul with fervent thoughts and holy aspira tions, and ardent longings after the beautiful and the true. Majestic spirit of the past, I recognize thee ! Thou hast bid the shadow go back for me upon the dial-plate of time. Thou hast taught me to read in thee the pres ent and the future, a revelation of man's 292 The Pilgrim's Breviary destiny on earth. Thou hast taught me to see in thee the principle that unfolds itself from century to century in the progress of our race, the germ in whose bosom lie unfolded the bud, the leaf, the tree. Generations per ish, like the leaves of the forest, passing away when their mission is completed ; but at each succeeding spring, broader and higher spreads the human mind unto its perfect stature, unto the fulfilment of its destiny, unto the perfec tion of its nature. And in these high revela tions, thou hast taught me more, thoti hast taught me to feel that I, too, weak, humble, and unknown, feeble of purpose and irreso lute of good, have something to accomplish upon earth, like the falling leaf, like the passing wind, like the drop of rain. O glo rious thought ! that lifts me above the power of time and chance, and tells me that I cannot pass away, and leave no mark of my existence. I may not know the purpose of my being, i the end for which an all-wise Providence cre ated me as I am, and placed me where I am ; but I do know for in such things faith is knowledge that my being has a purpose in the omniscience of my Creator, and that all my actions tend to the completion, to the full The Pilgrims Breviary 293 accomplishment of that purpose. Is this fatal ity ? No. I feel that I am free, though an in finite and invisible power overrules me. Man proposes, and God disposes. This is one of the many mysteries in our being which hu man reason cannot find out by searching. Yonder towers, that stand so huge and mas sive in the midnight air, the work of human hands that have long since forgotten their cun ning in the grave, and once the home of hu man beings immortal as ourselves, and filled like us with hopes and fears, and powers of good and ill, are lasting memorials of their builders ; inanimate material forms, yet living with the impress of a creative mind. These are landmarks of other times. Thus from the distant past the history of the human race is telegraphed from generation to generation, through the present to all succeeding ages. These are manifestations of the human mind at a remote period of its history, and among a people who came from another clime, the children of the desert. Their mission is ac complished, and they are gone ; yet leaving behind them a thousand records of themselves and of their ministry, not as yet fully manifest, but " seen through a glass darkly," dimly shad- 294 Th e PUgrints Breviary owed forth in the language, and character, and manners, and history of the nation, that was by turns the conquered and the conquering. The Goth sat at the Arab's feet ; and athwart the cloud and storm of war, streamed the light of Oriental learning upon the Western world, "As when the autumnal sun, Through travelling rain and mist, Shines on the evening hills." THIS morning I visited the Alhambra ; an enchanted palace, whose exquisite beauty baf fles the power of language to describe. Its outlines may be drawn, its halls and gal leries, its court-yards and its fountains, num bered ; but what skilful limner shall portray in words its curious architecture, the grotesque ornaments, the quaint devices, the rich tracery of the walls, the ceilings inlaid with pearl and tortoise-shell ? what language paint the magic hues of light and shade, the shimmer of the sunbeam as it falls upon the marble pavement, and the brilliant panels inlaid with many-col ored stones ? Vague recollections fill my mind, images dazzling but undefined, like the memory of a gorgeous dream. They The Pilgrints Breviary 295 crowd my brain confusedly, but they will not stay ; they change and mingle, like the tremulous sunshine on the wave, till imagi nation itself is dazzled, bewildered, over powered ! What most arrests the stranger's foot within the walls of the Alhambra is the refinement of luxury which he sees at every step. He lin gers in the deserted bath, he pauses to gaze upon the now vacant saloon, where, stretched upon his gilded couch, the effeminate monarch of the East was wooed to sleep by softly-breath ing music. What more delightful than this secluded garden, green with the leaf of the myrtle and the orange, and freshened with the gush of fountains, beside whose basin the nightingale still wooes the blushing rose ? What more fanciful, more exquisite, more like a creation of Oriental magic, than the lofty tower of the Tocador, its airy sculpture re sembling the fretwork of wintry frost, and its windows overlooking the romantic valley of the Darro ; and the city, with its gar dens, domes, and spires, far, far below ? Cool through this lattice comes the summer wind from the icy summits of the Sierra Nevada. Softly in yonder fountain falls the crystal wa- 296 The Pilgriwts Breviary ter, dripping from its marble vase with never- ceasing sound. On every side comes up the fragrance of a thousand flowers, the murmur of innumerable leaves ; and overhead is a sky where not a vapor floats, as soft, and blue, and radiant as the eye of childhood ! Such is the Alhambra of Granada ; a for tress, a palace, an earthly paradise, a ruin, wonderful in its fallen greatness 1 THE JOURNEY INTO ITALY What I catch is at present only sketch-ways, as it were ; but I prepare myself betimes for the Italian journey. GOETHE'S FAUST. ON the afternoon of the i$th of Decem ber, in the year of grace one thousand eight hundred and twenty-seven, I left Mar seilles for Genoa, taking the sea-shore road through Toulon, Draguignan, and Nice. This journey is written in ray memory with a sun beam. We were a company whom chance had thrown together, different in ages, humors, and pursuits, and yet so merrily the days went by, in sunshine, wind, or rain, that me- thinks some lucky star must have ruled the hour that brought us five so auspiciously together. But where is now that merry com pany ? One sleeps in his youthful grave ; two sit in their fatherland, and "coin their brain for their daily bread " ; and the others, where are they ? If still among the living, I beg them to remember in their prayers the humble historian of their journey into Italy. 13* 298 The Journey into Italy At Toulon we took a private carriage in or der to pursue our journey more leisurely and more at ease. I well remember the strange, outlandish vehicle, and our vetturino Joseph, with his blouse, his short-stemmed pipe, his limping gait, his comical phiz, and the lowland dialect his mother taught him at Avignon. Every scene, every incident of the journey is now before me as if written in a book. The sunny landscapes of the Var, the peasant girls, with their broad-brimmed hats of straw, the inn at Draguignan, with its painting of a lady on horseback, underwritten in French and English, " Une jeune dame a la promenade, A young ladi taking a walk," the mould ering arches of the Roman aqueducts at Fre- jus, standing in the dim twilight of morning like shadowy apparitions of the past, the wooded bridge across the Var, the glorious amphitheatre of hills that half encircle Nice, the midnight scene at the village inn of Mo naco, the mountain-road overhanging the sea at a dizzy height, and its long, dark passages cut through the solid rock, the tumbling mountain-torrent, and a fortress perched on a jutting spur of the Alps ; these, and a thou sand varied scenes and landscapes of this jour-- The Journey into Italy 299 ney, rise before me, as if still visible to the eye of sense, and not to that of memory only. And yet I will not venture upon a minute de scription of them. I have not colors bright enough for such landscapes ; and besides, even the most determined lovers of the picturesque grow weary of long descriptions ; though, as the French guide-book says of these scenes, " Tout cela fait sans doute un spectacle admi rable ! " ON * the tenth day of our journey, we reached Genoa, the city of palaces, the su perb city. The writer of an old book, called " Time's Storehouse," thus poetically describes its situation : " This cittie is most proudly built upon the seacoast and the downefall of the Appenines, at the foot of a mountaine ; even as if she were descended downe the mount, and come to repose herselfe uppon a plaine." It was Christmas eve, a glorious night ! I stood at midnight on the wide terrace of our hotel, which overlooks the sea, and, gaz ing on the tiny and crisping waves that broke in pearly light beneath the moon, sent back my wandering thoughts far over the sea, to a dis- 3OO The Journey into Italy tant home. The jangling music of church- bells aroused me from my dream. It was the sound of jubilee at the approaching festival of the Nativity, and summoned alike the pious devotee, the curious stranger, and the gallant lover to the church of the Annunziata. I descended from the terrace, and, groping my way through one of the dark and narrow lanes which intersect the city in all directions, soon found myself in the Strada Nuova. The long line of palaces lay half in shadow, half in light, stretching before me in magical perspec tive, like the long vapory opening of a cloud in the summer sky. Following the various groups that were passing onward towards the public square, I entered the church, where midnight mass was to be chanted. A daz zling blaze of light from the high altar shone upon the red marble columns which support the roof, and fell with a solemn effect upon ihe kneeling crowd that filled the body of the church. All beyond was in darkness ; and from that darkness at intervals burst forth the deep voice of the organ and the chanting of the choir, filling the soul with solemnity and awe. And yet, among that prostrate crowd, how many had been drawn thither by The Journey into Italy 301 unworthy motives, motives even more un worthy than mere idle curiosity ! How many sinful purposes arose in souls unpurified, and mocked at the bended knee ! How many a heart beat wild with earthly passion, while the unconscious lip repeated the accustomed prayer ! Immortal spirit ! canst thou so heed lessly resist the imploring voice that calls thee from thine errors and pollutions ? Is not the long day long enough, is not the wide world wide enough, has not society frivolity enough for thee, that thou shouldst seek out this mid night hour, this holy place, this solemn sacri fice, to add irreverence to thy folly ? In the shadow of a column stood a young man wrapped in a cloak, earnestly conversing in a low whisper with a female figure, so veiled as to hide her face from the eyes of all but her companion. At length they sepa rated. The young man continued leaning against the column, and the girl, gliding si lently along the dimly lighted aisle, mingled with the crowd, and threw herself upon her knees. Beware, poor girl, thought I, lest thy gentle nature prove thy undoing ! Perhaps, alas, thou art already undone ! And I almost heard the evil spirit whisper, as in the Faust, 302 The Journey into Italy " How different was it with thee, Margaret, when, still full of innocence, thou earnest to the altar here, out of the well-worn little book lispedst prayers, half child-sport, half God in the heart ! Margaret, where is thy head ? What crime in thy heart ! " The city of Genoa is magnificent in parts, but not as a whole. The houses are high, and the streets in general so narrow that in many of them you may almost step across from side to side. They are built to receive the cool sea- breeze, and shut out the burning sun. Only three of them if my memory serves me are wide enough to admit the passage of car riages ; and these three form but one contin uous street, the street of palaces. They are the Strada Nuova, the Strada Novissima, and the Strada Balbi, which connect the Piazza Amorosa with the Piazza dell' Annunziata. These palaces, the Doria, the Durazzo, the Ducal Palace, and others of less magnifi cence, with their vast halls, their marble staircases, vestibules, and terraces, and the as pect of splendor and munificence they wear, have given this commercial city the title of Genoa the Superb. And, as if to humble her pride, some envious rival among the Ital- The Journey into Italy 303 ian cities has launched at her a biting sar casm in the well known proverb, "Mare senza pesce, uomini senza fede, e donne senza vergo- gna" A sea without fish, men without faith, and women without shame ! THE road from Genoa to Lucca strong ly resembles that from Nice to Genoa. It runs along the seaboard, now dipping to the water's edge, and now climbing the zigzag mountain-pass, with toppling crags, and yawn ing chasms, and verdant terraces of vines and olive-trees. Many a sublime and many a picturesque landscape catches the travel ler's eye, now almost weary with gazing ; and still brightly painted upon my mind lies a calm evening scene on the borders of the Gulf of Spezia, with its broad sheet of crys tal water, the blue-tinted hills that form its oval basin, the crimson sky above, and its bright reflection, " Where it lay Deep bosomed in the still and quiet bay, The sea reflecting ail that glowed above, Till a new sky, softer but not so gay, Arched in its bosom, trembled like a dove." 304 The Journey into Italy PISA, the melancholy city, with its Leaning Tower, its Campo Santo, its bronze-gated ca thedral, and its gloomy palaces, Florence the Fair, with its magnificent Duomo, its gallery of ancient art, its gardens, its gay so ciety, and its delightful environs, Fiesole, Camaldoli, Vallombrosa, and the luxuriant Val d' Arno ; these have been so often and so beautifully described by others, that I need not repeat the twice-told tale. AT Florence I took lodgings in a house which looks upon the Piazza Novella. In front of my windows was the venerable church of Santa Ma ria Novella, in whose gloomy aisles Boccaccio has placed the opening scene of his Decame- rone. There, when the plague was raging in the city, one Tuesday morning, after mass, the " seven ladies, young and fair," held counsel together, and resolved to leave the infected city, and flee to their rural villas in the envi rons, where they might " hear the birds sing, and see the green hills, and the plains, and the fields covered with grain and undulating like the sea, and trees of species manifold." In the Florentine museum is a representa- The Journey into Italy 305 tion in wax of some of the appalling scenes of the plague which desolated this city about the middle of the fourteenth century, and which Boccaccio has described with such simplicity and power in the introduction of his Decame- rone. It is the work of a Sicilian artist, by the name of Zumbo. He must have been a man of the most gloomy and saturnine imagi nation, and more akin to the worm than most of us, thus to have revelled night and day in the hideous mysteries of death, corruption, and the charnel-house. It is strange how this rep resentation haunts one. It is like a dream of the sepulchre, with its loathsome corses, with " the blackening, the swelling, the bursting of the trunk, the worm, the rat, and the taran tula at work." You breathe more freely as you step out into the open air again ; and when the bright sunshine and the crowded busy streets next meet your eye, you are ready to ask, Is this indeed a representation of reality ? Can this pure air have been laden with pestilence ? Can this gay city have ever been a city of the plague ? The work of the Sicilian artist is admirable as a piece of art ; the description of the Flo rentine prose-poet equally admirable as a piece 306 The Journey into Italy of eloquence. " How many vast palaces," he exclaims, " how many beautiful houses, how many noble dwellings, aforetime filled with lords and ladies and trains of servants, were now untenanted even by the lowest menial ! How many memorable families, how many ample heritages, how many renowned posses sions, were left without an heir ! How many valiant men, how many beautiful women, how many gentle youths, breakfasted in the morn ing with their relatives, companions, and friends, and, when the evening came, supped with their ancestors in the other world ! " I MET with an odd character at Florence, a complete humorist. He was an Englishman of some forty years of age, with a round, good- humored countenance, and a nose that wore the livery of good company. He was making the grand tour through France and Italy, and home again by the way of the Tyrol and the Rhine. He travelled post, with a double-bar relled gun, two pairs of pistols, and a vio lin without a bow. He had been in Rome without seeing St. Peter's, he did not care about it ; he had seen St. Paul's in London. The Journey into Italy 307 He had been in Naples without visiting Pom peii, because " they told him it was hardly worth seeing, nothing but a parcel of dark streets and old walls." The principal object he seemed to have in view was to complete the grand tour. I afterward met with his counterpart in a countryman of my own, who made it a point to see everything which was mentioned in the guide-books ; and boasted how much he could accomplish in a day. He would de spatch a city in an incredibly short space of time. A Roman aqueduct, a Gothic cathedral, two or three modern churches, and an ancient ruin or so, were only a breakfast for him. Nothing came amiss ; not a stone was left un turned. A city was like a Chinese picture to him, it had no perspective. Every object seemed of equal magnitude and importance. He saw them all ; they were all wonderful. " Life is short, and art is long," says Hippo crates ; yet spare me from thus travelling with the speed of thought, and trotting, from day light until dark, at the heels of a cicerone, with an umbrella in one hand, and a guide-book and plan of the city in the other. 308 The Journey into Italy I COPIED the following singular inscription from a tombstone in the Protestant cemetery at Leghorn. It is the epitaph of a lady, writ ten by herself, and engraven upon her tomb at her own request. " Under this stone lies the victim of sorrow. Fly, wandering stranger, from her mouldering dust, Lest the rude wind, conveying a particle thereof unto the'e, Should communicate that venom melancholy That has destroyed the strongest frame and liveliest spirit. With joy of heart has she resigned her breath, A living martyr to sensibility ! " How inferior in true pathos is this inscription to one in the cemetery of Bologna ; " Lucrezia Picini Implora eterna pace." Lucretia Picini implores eternal peace ! From Florence to Rome I travelled with a vetturino, by the way of Siena. We were six days upon the road, and, like Peter Rugg in the story-book, were followed constantly by clouds and rain. At times, the sun, not all- forgetful of the world, peeped from beneath his cowl of mist, and kissed the swarthy face of his beloved land ; and then, like an anchorite, withdrew again from earth, and gave him self to heaven. Day after day the mist and The Journey into Italy 309 the rain were my fellow-travellers ; and as I sat wrapped in the thick folds of my Spanish cloak, and looked out upon the misty land scape and the leaden sky, I was continually saying to myself, " Can this be Italy ? " and smiling at the untravelled credulity of those who, amid the storms of a northern winter, give way to the illusions of fancy, and dream of Italy as a sunny land, where no wintry tem pest beats, and where, even in January, the pale invalid may go about without his umbrella, or his India-rubber walk-in-the-waters. Notwithstanding all this, with the help of a good constitution and a thick pair of boots, I contrived to see all that was to be seen upon the road. I walked down the long hillside at San Lorenzo, and along the border of the Lake of Bolsena, which, veiled in the driving mist, stretched like an inland sea beyond my ken ; and through the sacred forest of oak, held in superstitious reverence by the peasant, and inviolate from his axe. I passed a night at Montefiascone, renowned for a delicate Mus cat wine, which bears the name of Est, and made a midnight pilgrimage to the tomb of the Bishop John Defoucris, who died a martyr to his love of this wine of Montefiascone. 310 The Journey into Italy "Propter nimium Est, Est, Est, Dominus meus mortuus est." A marble slab in the pavement, worn by the footsteps of pilgrims like myself, covers the dominie's ashes. There is a rude figure carved upon it, at whose feet I traced out the cabalis tic words, "Est, Est, Est." The remainder of the inscription was illegible by the flickering light of the sexton's lantern. At Baccano I first caught sight of the dome of Saint Peter's. We had entered the deso late Campagna ; we passed the tomb of Nero, we approached the Eternal City ; but no sound of active life, no thronging crowds, no hum of busy men, announced that we were near the gates of Rome. All was silence, soli tude, and desolation. ROME IN MIDSUMMER She who tamed the world seemed to tame herself at last, and, falling under her own weight, grew to be a prey to Time, who with his iron teeth consumes all bodies at last, making all things, both animate and inanimate, which have their being under that changeling, the moon, to be subject unto corruption and desolation. HOWELL'S SIGNORIE OF VENICE. r I "*HE masks and mummeries of Carnival *- are over ; the imposing ceremonies of Holy Week have become a tale of the times of old ; the illumination of St. Peter's and the Girandola are no longer the theme of gentle and simple ; and finally, the barbarians of the North have retreated from the gates of Rome, and left the Eternal City silent and deserted. The cicerone stands at the corner of the street with his hands in his pockets ; the artist has shut himself up in his studio to muse upon antiquity ; and the idle facchino lounges in the market-place, and plays at mom by the fountain. Midsummer has come ; and you may now hire a palace for what, a few weeks ago, would hardly have paid your night's lodg ing in its garret. 312 Rome in Midsummer I am still lingering in Rome, a student, not an artist, and have taken lodgings in the Piazza Navona, the very heart of the city, and one of the largest and most magnificent squares of modern Rome. It occupies the site of the ancient amphitheatre of Alexander Sev- erus ; and the churches, palaces, and shops that now surround it are built upon the old foundations of the amphitheatre. At each extremity of the square stands a fountain ; the one with a simple jet of crystal water, the oth er with a triton holding a dolphin by the tail. In the centre rises a nobler work of art; a fountain with a marble basin more than two hundred feet in circumference. From the midst uprises a huge rock pierced with grot toes, wherein sit a rampant sea-horse, and a lion couchant. On the sides of the rock are four colossal statues, representing the four principal rivers of the world ; and from its summit, forty feet from the basin below, shoots up an obelisk of red granite, covered with hie roglyphics, and fifty feet in height, a relic of the amphitheatre of Caracalla. In this quarter of the city I have domicili- ated myself, in a family of whose many kind nesses I shall always retain the most lively Rome in Midsummer 313 and grateful remembrance. My mornings are spent in visiting the wonders of Rome, in studying the miracles of ancient and modern art, or in reading at the public libraries. We breakfast at noon, and dine at eight in the evening. After dinner comes the conversa zione, enlivened with music, and the meeting of travellers, artists, and literary men from every quarter of the globe. At midnight, when the crowd is gone, I retire to my cham ber, and, poring over the gloomy pages of Dante, or "Bandello's laughing tale," protract my nightly vigil till the morning star is in the sky. Our windows look out upon the square, which circumstance is a source of infinite en joyment to me. Directly in front, with its fan tastic belfries and swelling dome, rises the church of St. Agnes ; and sitting by the open window, I note the busy scene below, enjoy the cool air of morning and evening, and even feel the freshness of the fountain, as its waters leap in mimic cascades down the sides of the rock. THE Piazza Navona is the chief market place of Rome ; and on market-days is filled 14 314 Rome in Midsummer with a noisy crowd of the Roman populace, and the peasantry from the neighboring vil lages of Albano and Frascati. At such times the square presents an animated and curious scene. The gayly-decked stalls, the piles of fruits and vegetables, the pyramids of flow ers, the various costumes of the peasantry, the constant movement of the vast, fluctuat ing crowd, and the deafening clamor of their discordant voices, that rise louder than the roar of the loud ocean, all this is better than a play to me, and gives me amusement when naught else has power to amuse. Every Saturday afternoon in the sultry month ,jf August, this spacious square is con verted into a lake, by stopping the conduit- pipes which carry off the water of the foun tains. Vehicles of every description, axle- deep, drive to and fro across the mimic lake ; a dense crowd gathers around its margin, and a thousand tricks excite the loud laughter of the idle populace. Here is a fellow groping with a stick after his seafaring hat ; there an other splasKing in the water in pursuit of a mischievous spaniel, who is swimming away with his shoe ; while from a neighboring bal cony a noisy burst of military music fills the Rome in Midsummer 315 air, and gives fresh animation to the scene of mirth. This is one of the popular festivals of midsummer in Rome, and the merriest of them all. It is a kind of carnival unmasked ; and many a popular bard, many a Poeta di dozzina, invokes this day the plebeian Muse of the mar ket-place to sing in high-sounding rhyme, "// Lago di Piazza Navona" I have before me one of these sublime effu sions. It describes the square, the crowd, the rattling carriages, the lake, the fountain, raised by " the superhuman genius of Bernini," the lion, the sea-horse, and the triton grasping the dolphin's tail. " Half the grand square," thus sings the poet, "where Rome with food is satiate, was changed into a lake, around whose margin stood the Roman people, pleased with soft idleness and merry holiday, like birds upon the margin of a limpid brook. Up and down drove car and chariot ; and the women trembled for fear of the deep water ; though merry were the young, and well I ween, had they been borne away to unknown shores by the bull that bore away Europa, they would neither have wept nor screamed ! " 316 Rome in Midsummer ON the eastern slope of the Janiculum, now called, from its yellow sands, Montorio, or the Golden Mountain, stands the fountain of Ac- qua Paola, the largest and most abundant of the Roman fountains. It is a small Ionic temple, with six columns of reddish granite in front, a spacious hall and chambers within, and a garden with a terrace in the rear. Be neath the pavement, a torrent of water from the ancient aqueducts of Trajan, and from the lakes of Bracciano and Martignano, leaps forth in three beautiful cascades, and from the over flowing basin rushes down the hillside to turn the busy wheels of a dozen mills. The key of this little fairy palace is in our hands, and as often as once a week we pass the day there, amid the odor of its flowers, the rushing sound of its waters, and the enchant ments of poetry and music. How pleasantly the sultry hours steal by! Cool comes the summer wind from the Tiber's mouth at Ostia. Above us is a sky without a cloud ; beneath us the magnificent panorama of Rome and the Campagna, bounded by the Abruzzi and the sea. Glorious scene ! one glance at thee would move the dullest soul, one glance can melt the painter and the poet into tears ! Rome in Midsummer 317 In the immediate neighborhood of the foun tain are many objects worthy of the stranger's notice. A bowshot down the hillside towards the city stands the convent of San Pietro in Montorio ; and in the cloister of this convent is a small, round Doric temple, built upon the spot which an ancient tradition points out as the scene of St. Peter's martyrdom. In the opposite direction the road leads you over the shoulder of the hill, and out through the city- gate to gardens and villas beyond. Passing beneath a lofty arch of Trajan's aqueduct, an ornamented gateway on the left admits you to the Villa Pamfili-Doria, built on the western declivity of the hill. This is the largest and most magnificent of the numerous villas that crowd the immediate environs of Rome. Its spacious terraces, its marble statues, its wood lands and green alleys, its lake and waterfalls and fountains, give it an air of courtly splendor and of rural beauty, which realizes the beau ideal of a suburban villa. This is our favorite resort, when we have passed the day at the fountain, and the after noon shadows begin to fall. There we sit on the broad marble steps of the terrace, gaze upon the varied landscape stretching to the 318 Rome in Midsummer misty sea, or ramble beneath the leafy dome of the woodland and along the margin of the lake, " And drop a pebble to see it sink Down in those depths so calm and cool." O, did we but know when we are happy ! Could the restless, feverish, ambitious heart be still, but for a moment still, and yield itself, without one farther-aspiring throb, to its en joyment, then were I happy, yes, thrice happy ! But no ; this fluttering, struggling, and imprisoned spirit beats the bars of its golden cage, disdains the silken fetter ; it will not close its eye and fold its wings ; as if time were not swift enough, its swifter thoughts outstrip his rapid flight, and onward, onward do they wing their way to the distant moun tains, to the fleeting clouds of the future ; and yet I know, that ere long, weary, and wayworn, and disappointed, they shall return to nestle in the bosom of the past ! This day, also, I have passed at Acqua Pa- ola. From the garden terrace I watched the setting sun, as, wrapt in golden vapor, he passed to other climes. A friend from my native land was with me ; and as we spake ol home, a liquid star stood trembling like a tear Rome in Midsummer 319 upon the closing eyelid of the day. Which of us wrote these lines with a pencil upon the cover of Julia's Corinna ? Bright star ! whose soft, familiar ray, In colder climes and gloomier skies, I 've watched so oft when closing day Had tinged the west with crimson dyes ; Perhaps to-night some friend I love, Beyond the deep, the distant sea, Will gaze upon thy path above, And give one lingering thought to me. TORQUATI TASSO OSSA HIC jACENT, Here lie the bones of Torquato Tasso, is the sim ple inscription upon the poet's tomb, in the church of St. Onofrio. Many a pilgrimage is made to this grave. Many a bard from distant lands comes to visit the spot, and, as he paces the secluded cloisters of the convent where the poet died, and where his ashes rest, muses on the sad vicissitudes of his life, and breathes a prayer for the peace of his soul. He sleeps midway between his cradle at Sor rento and his dungeon at Ferrara. The monastery of St. Onofrio stands on the Janiculum, overlooking the Tiber and the city of Rome ; and in the distance rise the towers 320 Rome in Midsummer of the Roman Capitol, where, after long years of sickness, sorrow, and imprisonment, the lau rel crown was prepared for the great epic poet of Italy. The chamber in which Tasso died is still shown to the curious traveller ; and the tree in the garden, under whose shade he loved to sit. The feelings of the dying man, as he reposed in this retirement, are not the vague conjectures of poetic revery. He has himself recorded them in a letter which he wrote to his friend Antonio Constantini, a few days only before his dissolution. These are his melancholy words : . " What will my friend Antonio say, when he hears the death of Tasso ? Erelong, I think, the news will reach him ; for I feel that the end of my life is near ; being able to find no remedy for this wearisome indisposition which is superadded to my customary infirmities, and by which, as by a rapid torrent, I see myself swept away, without a hand to save. It is no longer time to speak of my unyielding destiny, not to say the ingratitude of the world, which has longed even for the victory of driving me a beggar to my grave ; while I thought that the glory which, in spite of those who will it not, this age shall receive from my writings Rome in Midsummer 321 was not to leave me thus without reward. I have come to this monastery of St. Onofrio, not only because the air is commended by physicians as more salubrious than in any oth er part of Rome, but that I may, as it were, commence, in this high place, and in the con versation of these devout fathers, my conversa tion in heaven. Pray God for me ; and be as sured that as I have loved and honored you in this present life, so in that other and more real life will I do for you all that belongs to charity unfeigned and true. And to the divine mercy I commend both you and myself." THE modern Romans are a very devout people. The Princess Doria washes the pil grims' feet in Holy Week ; every evening, foul or fair, the whole year round, there is a rosary sung before an image of the Virgin, within a stone's throw of my window ; and the young ladies write letters to St. Louis Gonzaga, who in all paintings and sculpture is represented as young and angelically beautiful. I saw a large pile of these letters a few weeks ago in Gon- zaga's chapel, at the church of St. Ignatius. They were lying at the foot of the altar, pret- 14* u 322 Rome in Midsummer tily written on smooth paper, and tied with silken ribands of various colors. Leaning over the marble balustrade, I read the follow ing superscription upon one of them : " Air Angelica Giovane S. Ltdgi Gonzaga, Paradiso, To the angelic youth St. Louis Gonza- ga, Paradise." A soldier, with a musket, kept guard over this treasure ; and I had the audaci ty to ask him at what hour the mail went out ; for which heretical impertinence he cocked his mustache at me with the most savage look im aginable, as much as to say, " Get thee gone " : " Andate, Niente pigliate, E mai ritornate. " The modern Romans are likewise strongly given to amusements of every description. Panem et circenses, says the Latin satirist, when chiding the degraded propensities of his countrymen ; Pancm et circenses, they are content with bread and the sports of the cir cus. The same may be said at the present day. Even in this hot weather, when the shops are shut at noon, and the fat priests waddle about the streets with fans in their hands, the people crowd to the Mausoleum of Rome in Midsummer 323 Augustus, to be choked with the smoke of fireworks, and see deformed and humpback dwarfs tumbled into the dirt by the masked horns of young bullocks. What a refined amusement for the inhabitants of "pompous and holy Rome ! " THE Sirocco prevails to-day, a hot wind from the burning sands of Africa, that bathes its wings in the sea, and comes laden with fogs and vapors to the shores of Italy. It is op pressive and dispiriting, and quite unmans one, like the dog-days of the North. There is a scrap of an old English song running in my mind, in which the poet calls it a cool wind ; though ten to one I misquote. " When the cool Sirocco blows, And daws and pies and rooks and crows Sit and curse the wintiy snows, Then give me ale ! " I should think that stark English beer might have a potent charm against the pow ers of the foul fiend that rides this steaming, reeking wind. A flask of Montefiascone, or a bottle of Lacrima Christi does very well. 324 Rome in Mihsummer BEGGARS all, beggars all ! The Papal city is full of them ; and they hold you by the but ton through the whole calendar of saints. You cannot choose but hear. I met an old woman yesterday, who pierced my ear with this alluring petition : " Ak signore ! Qualche piccola cosa, per ca- rita ! Vi dirb la buona ventura ! C' una bella signorina, che vi ama molto ! Per il Sacro Sa cramento ! Per la Madonna ! " Which being interpreted, is, " Ah, Sir, a tri fle, for charity's sake ! I will tell your fortune for you ! There is a beautiful young lady who loves you well! For the Holy Sacrament, for the Madonna's sake ! " Who could resist such an appeal ? I made a laughable mistake this morning in giving alms. A man stood on the shady side of the street with his hat in his hand, and as I passed he gave me a piteous look, though he said nothing. He had such a woe-begone face, and such a threadbare coat, that I at once took him for one of those mendicants who bear the title of poveri vergognosi, bashful beggars ; persons whom pinching want compels to re ceive the stranger's charity, though pride re strains them from asking it. Moved with com- Rome in Midsummer 325 passion, I threw into the hat the little I had to give ; when, instead of thanking me with a blessing, my man with the threadbare coat showered upon me the most sonorous maledic tions of his native tongue, and, emptying his greasy hat upon the pavement, drew it down over his ears with both hands, and stalked away with all the dignity of a Roman senator in the best days of the republic, to the infi nite amusement of a green-grocer, who stood at his shop-door bursting with laughter. No time was given me for an apology ; but I re solved to be for the future more discriminating in my charities, and not to take for a beggar every poor gentleman who chose to stand in the shade with his hat in his hand on a hot summer's day. THERE is an old fellow who hawks pious le^ gends and the lives of saints through the streets of Rome, with a sharp, cracked voice, that knows no pause nor division in the sen tences it utters. I just heard him cry at a breath : "La Vita di San Giuseppe quel fidel servitor di Dio santo e maraviglioso mezzo bajocco, 326 Rome in Midsummer The Life of St. Joseph that faithful servant ot God holy and wonderful ha'penny ! " This is the way with some people ; everything helter-skelter, heads and tails, prices cur rent and the lives of saints! IT has been a rainy day, a day of gloom. The church-bells never rang in my ears with so melancholy a sound ; and this afternoon I saw a mournful scene, which still haunts my imagination. It was the funeral of a monk. I was drawn to the window by the solemn chant, as the procession came from a neighbor ing street and crossed the square. First came a long train of priests, clad in black, and bear ing in their hands large waxen tapers, which flared in every gust of wind, and were now and then extinguished by the rain. The bier fol lowed, borne on the shoulders of four bare footed Carmelites ; and upon it, ghastly and grim, lay the body of the dead monk, clad in his long gray kirtle, with the twisted cord about his waist. Not even a shroud was thrown over him. His head and feet were bare, and his hands were placed upon his bosom, palm to palm, ia the attitude of prayer. His face Rome in Midsummer 327 was emaciated, and of a livid hue ; his eyes unclosed ; and at every movement of the bier, his head nodded to and fro, with an unearthly and hideous aspect. Behind walked the mo nastic brotherhood, a long and melancholy pro cession, with their cowls thrown back, and their eyes cast upon the ground ; and last of all came a man with a rough, unpainted coffin upon his shoulders, closing the funeral train. MANY of the priests, monks, monsignori, and cardinals of Rome have a bad reputation, even after deducting a tithe or so from the tales of gossip. To some of them may be ap plied the rhyming Latin distich, written for the monks of old : " O Monachi, Vestri stomach! Sunt amphora Bacchi ; Vos estis, Deus est testis, Turpissima pestis." The graphic description which Thomson gives in his " Castle of Indolence " would read ily find an impersonation among the Roman priesthood : " Full oft by holy feet our ground was trod, Of clerks good plenty here you mote espy ; 328 Rome in Midsummer A little, round, fat, oily man of God Was one I chiefly marked among the fry ; He had a roguish twinkle in his eye, Which shone all glittering with ungodly dew, When a tight damsel chanced to trippen by ; But when observed, would shrink into his mew, And straight would recollect his piety anew." YONDER across the square goes a Minente of Trastevere ; a fellow who boasts the blood of the old Romans in his veins. He is a plebe ian exquisite of the western bank of the Tiber, with a swarthy face and the step of an em peror. He wears a slouched hat, and blue velvet jacket and breeches, and has enormous silver buckles in his shoes. As he marches along, he sings a ditty in his own vulgar dia lect : "Uno, due, e tre, E lo Papa non e Re." Now he stops to talk with a woman with a pan of coals in her hand. What violent gestures ! what expressive attitudes ! Head, hands, and feet are all in motion, not a muscle is still ! It must be some interesting subject that ex cites him so much, and gives such energy to his gestures and his language. No ; he only wants to light his pipe ! Rome in Midsummer 329 IT is now past midnight. The moon is full and bright, and the shadows lie so dark and massive in the street that they seem a part of the walls that cast them. I have just returned from the Coliseum, whose ruins are so marvel lously beautiful by moonlight. No stranger at Rome omits this midnight visit ; for though there is something unpleasant in having one's admiration forestalled, and being as it were romantic aforethought, yet the charm is so powerful, the scene so surpassingly beautiful and sublime, the hour, the silence, and the colossal ruin have such a mastery over the soul, that you are disarmed when most up on your guard, and betrayed into an enthu siasm which perhaps you had silently resolved you would not feel. On my way to the Coliseum, I crossed the Capitoline Hill, and descended into the Roman Forum by the broad staircase that leads to the triumphal arch of Septimius Severus. Close upon my right hand stood the three remaining columns of the Temple of the Thunderer, and the beautiful Ionic portico of the Temple of Concord, their base in shadow, and the bright moonbeam striking aslant upon the broken entablature above. Before me rose 330 Rome in Midsummer the Phocian Column, an isolated shaft, like a thin vapor hanging in the air scarce visible ; and far to the left, the ruins of the Temple of Antonio and Faustina, and the three colossal arches of the Temple of Peace, dim, shadowy, indistinct, seemed to melt away and mingle with the sky. I crossed the Forum to the foot of the Palatine, and, ascending the Via Sacra, passed beneath the Arch of Titus. From this point, I saw below me the gigantic outline of the Coliseum, like a cloud resting upon the earth. As I descended the hillside, it grew more broad and high, more definite in its form, and yet more grand in its dimensions, till, from the vale in which it stands encom passed by three of the Seven Hills of Rome, the Palatine, the Ccelian, and the Esquiline, the majestic ruin in all its solitary grandeur " swelled vast to heaven." A single sentinel was pacing to and fro be neath the arched gateway which leads to the interior, and his measured footsteps were the only sound that broke the breathless silence of the night. What a contrast with the scene which that same midnight hour presented, when, in Domitian's time, the eager populace began to gather at the gates, impatient for the Rome in Midsummer 331 morning sports ! Nor was the contrast within less striking. Silence, and the. quiet moon beams, and the broad, deep shadows of the ruined wall ! Where were the senators of Rome, her matrons, and her virgins ? where the ferocious populace that rent the air with shouts, when, in the hundred holidays that marked the dedication of this imperial slaugh ter-house, five thousand wild beasts from the Libyan deserts and the forests of Anatolia made the arena sick with blood ? Where were the Christian martyrs, that died with prayers upon their lips, amid the jeers and imprecations of their fellow-men ? where the barbarian gladiators, brought forth to the fes tival of blood, and "butchered to make a Ro man holiday " ? The awful silence answered, " They are mine ! " The dust beneath me answered, " They are mine ! " I crossed to the opposite extremity of the amphitheatre. A lamp was burning in the lit tle chapel, which has been formed from what was once a den for the wild beasts of the Ro man festivals. Upon the steps sat the old beadsman, the only tenant of the Coliseum, who guides the stranger by night through the long galleries of this vast pile of ruins. I fol- 332 Rome in Midsummer lowed him up a narrow wooden staircase, and entered one of the long and majestic corridors, which in ancient times ran entirely round the amphitheatre. Huge columns of solid mason- work, that seem the labor of Titans, support the flattened arches above ; and though the iron clamps are gone, which once fastened the hewn stones together, yet the columns stand majestic and unbroken, amid the ruin around them, and seem to defy "the iron tooth of time." Through the arches at the right, I could faintly discern the ruins of the baths of Titus on the Esquiline ; and from the left, through every chink and cranny of the wall, poured in the brilliant light of the full moon, casting gigantic shadows around me, and dif fusing a soft, silvery twilight through the long arcades. At length I came to an open space, where the arches above had crumbled away, leaving the pavement an unroofed terrace high in air. From this point, I could see the whole interior of the amphitheatre spread out be neath me, with such a soft and indefinite out line that it seemed less an earthly reality than a reflection in the bosom of a lake. The figures of several persons below were just perceptible, mingling grotesquely with their Rome in Midsummer 333 foreshortened shadows. The sound of their voices reached me in a whisper ; and the cross that stands in the centre of the arena looked like a dagger thrust into the sand. I did not conjure up the past, for the past had already become identified with the present. It was before me in one of its visible and most ma jestic forms. The arbitrary distinctions of time, years, ages, centuries were annihilated. I was a citizen of Rome ! This was the am phitheatre of Flavius Vespasian ! Mighty is the spirit of the past, amid the ruins of the Eternal City ! THE VILLAGE OF LA RICCIA Egressum magnl me excepit Aricia Romft, Hospitio modico. HORACE. I PASSED the month of September at the village of La Riccia, which stands upon the western declivity of the Albanian hills, looking towards Rome. Its situation is one of the most beautiful which Italy can boast. Like a mural crown, it encircles the brow of a romantic hill ; woodlands of the most luxu riant foliage whisper around it ; above rise the rugged summits of the Abruzzi, and beneath lies the level floor of the Campagna, blotted with ruined tombs, and marked with broken but magnificent aqueducts that point the way to Rome. The whole region is classic ground. The Appian Way leads you from the gate of Rome to the gate of La Riccia. On one hand you have the Alban Lake, on the other the Lake of Nemi ; and the sylvan retreats around were once the dwellings of Hippolytus and the nymph Egeria. The Village of La Riccia 335 The town itself, however, is mean and dirty. The only inhabitable part is near the northern gate, where the two streets of the village meet. There, face to face, upon a square terrace, paved with large, flat stones, stand the Chigi palace and the village church with a dome and portico. There, too, stands the village inn, with its beds of cool, elastic maize-husks, its little dormitories, six feet square, and its spacious saloon, upon whose walls the melancholy story of Hippolytus is told in gorgeous frescoes. And there, too, at the union of the streets, just peeping through the gateway, rises the wedge-shaped Casa Antonini, within whose dusty chambers I passed the month of my villeggiatura, in company with two much- esteemed friends from the Old Dominion, a fair daughter of that generous clime, and her husband, an artist, an enthusiast, and a man of " infinite jest." My daily occupations in this delightful spot were such as an idle man usually whiles away his time withal in such a rural residence. I read Italian poetry, strolled in the Chigi park, rambled about the wooded environs of the village, took an airing on a jackass, threw stones into the Alban Lake, and, be- 336 The Village of La Riccia ing seized at intervals with the artist-mania, that came upon me like an intermittent fever, sketched or thought I did the trunk of a hollow tree, or the spire of a distant church, or a fountain in the shade. At such seasons, the mind is " tickled with a straw," and magnifies each trivial circum stance into an event of some importance. I recollect one morning, as I sat at breakfast in the village coffee-house, a large and beautiful spaniel came into the room, and placing his head upon my knee looked up into my face with a most piteous look, poor dog ! as much as to say that he had not breakfasted. I gave him a morsel of bread, which he swallowed without so much as moving his long silken ears ; and keeping his soft, beautiful eyes still fixed upon mine, he thumped upon the floor with his bushy tail, as if knocking for the waiter. He was a very beautiful animal, and so gentle and affectionate in his manner, that I askeH th^ waiter who his owner was. " He has none now," said the boy. " What ! " said I, " so fine a dog without a master ? " "Ah, Sir, he used to belong to Gasparoni, the famous robber of the Abruzzi mountains, The Village of La Riccia 337 who murdered so many people, and was caught at last and sent to the galleys for life. There 's his portrait on the wall." It hung directly in front of me ; a coarse print, representing the dark, stern counte nance of that sinful man, a face that wore an expression of savage ferocity and coarse sen suality. I had heard his story told in the vil lage ; the accustomed tale of outrage, violence, and murder. And is it possible, thought I, that this man of blood could have chosen so kind and gentle a companion ? What a re buke must he have met in those large, meek eyes, when he patted his favorite on the head, and dappled his long ears with blood ! Heaven seems in mercy to have ordained that none no, not even the most depraved should be left entirely to his evil nature, with out one patient monitor, a wife, a daugh ter, a fawning, meek-eyed dog, whose silent, supplicating look may rebuke the man of sin ! If this mute, playful creature, that licks the stranger's hand, were gifted with the power of articulate speech, how many a tale of midnight storm, and mountain-pass, and lonely glen, would but these reflections are common" place ! 15 v 338 The Village of La Riccia On another occasion, I saw an overladen ass fall on the steep and slippery pavement of the street. He made violent but useless ef forts to get upon his feet again ; and his brutal driver more brutal than the suffering beast of burden beat him unmercifully with his heavy whip. Barbarian ! is it not enough that you have laid upon your uncomplaining ser vant a burden greater than he can bear ? Must you scourge this unresisting slave, because his strength has failed him in your hard service ? Does not that imploring look disarm you ? Does not and here was an other theme for commonplace reflection ! Again. A little band of pilgrims, clad in white, with staves, and scallop-shells, and san dal shoon, have just passed through the village gate, wending their toilsome way to the holy shrine of Loretto. They wind along the brow of the hill with slow and solemn pace, just as they ought to do, to agree with my no tion of a pilgrimage, drawn from novels. And now they disappear behind the hill ; and hark ! they are singing a mournful hymn, like Chris tian and Hopeful on their way to the Delecta ble Mountains. How strange it seems to me, that I should ever behold a scene like this ! a The Village of La Riccia 339 pilgrimage to Loretto ! Here was another outline for the imagination to fill up. But my chief delight was in sauntering along the many woodland walks, which di verge in every direction from the gates of La Riccia. One of these plunges down the steep declivity of the hill, and, threading its way through a most romantic valley, leads to the shapeless tomb of the Horatii and the pleasant village of Albano. Another conducts you over swelling uplands and through wooded hollows to Genzano and the sequestered Lake of Nemi, which lies in its deep crater, like the waters of a well, "all coiled into itself and round, as sleeps the snake." A third, and the most beautiful of all, runs in an undulating line along the crest of the last and lowest ridge of the Albanian Hills, and leads to the borders of the Alban Lake. In parts it hides itself in thick-leaved hollows, in parts climbs the open hillside and overlooks the Campagna. Then it winds along the brim of the deep, oval basin of the lake, to the village of Castel Gandolfo, and thence onward to Marino, Grotta-Ferrata, and Frascati. That part of the road which looks down up on the lake passes through a magnificent gal- 340 The Village of La Riccia lery of thick embowering trees, whose dense and luxuriant foliage completely shuts out the noonday sun, forming " A greensward wagon-way, that, like Cathedral aisle, completely roofed with branches, Runs through the gloomy wood from top to bottojn, And has at either end a Gothic door Wide open." This long sylvan arcade is called the Galle- ria-di-sopra, to distinguish it from the Galleria- di-sotto, a similar, though less beautiful avenue, leading from Castel Gandolfo to Albano, un der the brow of the hill. In this upper gal lery, and almost hidden amid its old and leafy trees, stands a Capuchin convent, with a little esplanade in front, from which the eye enjoys a beautiful view of the lake, and the swelling hills beyond. It is a lovely spot, so lonely, cool, and still ; and was my favorite and most frequented haunt. Another pathway conducts you round the southern shore of the Alban Lake, and, after passing the site of the ancient Alba Longa, and the convent of Palazzuolo, turns off to the right through a luxuriant forest, and climbs the rugged precipice of Rocca di Papa. Be hind this village swells the rounded peak of The Village of La Riccia 34 1 Monte Cavo, the highest pinnacle of the Al banian Hills, rising three thousand feet above the level of the sea. Upon its summit once stood a temple of Jupiter, and the Triumphal Way, by which the Roman conquerors ascend ed once a year in solemn procession to offer sacrifices, still leads you up the side of the hill. But a convent has been built upon the ruins of the ancient temple, and the disciples of Loy ola are now the only conquerors that tread the pavement of the Triumphal Way. The view from the windows of the convent is vast and magnificent. Directly beneath you, the sight plunges headlong into a gulf of dark-green foliage, the Alban Lake seems so near, that you can almost drop a pebble into it, and Nemi, imbosomed in a green and cup-like valley, lies like a dew-drop in the hollow of a leaf. All around you, upon every swell of the landscape, the white walls of rural towns and villages peep from their leafy cov erts, Genzano, La Riccia, Castel Gandolfo and Albano ; and beyond spreads the flat and desolate Campagna, with Rome in its centre and seamed by the silver thread of the Tiber, that at Ostia, " with a pleasant stream, whirl ing in rapid eddies, and yellow with much 34 2 The Village of La Riccia sand, rushes forward into the sea." The scene of half the yEneid is spread beneath you like a map ; and it would need volumes to describe each point that arrests the eye in this magnifi cent panorama. As I stood leaning over the balcony of the convent, giving myself up to those reflections which the scene inspired, one of the brother hood came from a neighboring cell, and en tered into conversation with me. He was an old man, with a hoary head and a trembling hand ; yet his voice was musical and soft, and his eye still beamed with the enthusiasm of youth. " How wonderful," said he, " is the scene be fore us ! I have been an inmate of these walls for thirty years, and yet this prospect is as beautiful to my eye as when I gazed upon it for the first time. Not a day passes that I do not come to this window to behold and to ad mire. My heart is still alive to the beauties of the scene, and to all the classic associations it inspires." "You have never, then, been whipped by an angel for reading Cicero and Plautus, as St. Jerome was ? " " No," said the monk, with a smile. " From The Village of La Riccia 343 my youth up I have been a disciple of Chry- sostom, who often slept with the comedies of Aristophanes beneath his pillow ; and yet I confess that the classic associations of Roman history and fable are not the most thrilling which this scene awakens in my mind. Yon der is the bridge from which Constantine be held the miraculous cross of fire in the sky ; and I can never forget that this convent is built upon the ruins of a pagan temple. The town of Ostia, which lies before us on the sea shore, is renowned as the spot where the Tro jan fugitive first landed on the coast of Italy. But other associations than this have made the spot holy in my sight. Marcus Minutius Fe lix, a Roman lawyer, who flourished in the third century, a convert to our blessed faith, and one of the purest writers of the Latin Church, here places the scene of his ' Octa- vius.' This work has probably never fallen into your hands; for you are too young to have pushed your studies into the dusty tomes of the early Christian fathers." I replied that I had never so much as heard the book mentioned before ; and the monk continued : "It is a dialogue upon the vanity of pagan 344 The Vintage of La Riccia idolatry and the truth of the Christian religion, between Caecilius, a heathen, and Octavius, a Christian. The style is rich, flowing, and po etical ; and if the author handles his weapons with less power than a Tertullian, yet he ex hibits equal adroitness and more grace. He has rather the studied elegance of the Roman lawyer, than the bold spirit of a Christian martyr. But the volume is a treasure to me in my solitary hours, and I love to sit here upon the balcony, and con its poetic language and sweet imagery. You shall see the vol ume ; I carry it in my bosom." With these words, the monk drew from the folds of his gown a small volume, bound in parchment, and clasped with silver ; and, turn ing over its well worn leaves, continued : " In the introduction, the author describes himself as walking upon the sea-shore at Ostia, in company with his friends Octavius and Cae cilius. Observe in what beautiful language he describes the scene." Here he read to me the following passage, which I transcribe, not from memory, but from the book itself. " It was vacation-time, and that gave me aloose from my business at the bar ; for it was The Village of La Riccia 345 the season after the summer's heat, when au tumn promised fair, and put on the face of temperate. We set out, therefore, in the morning early, and as we were walking upon the sea-shore, and a kindly breeze fanned and refreshed our limbs, and the yielding sand soft ly submitted to our feet and made it delicious travelling, Caecilius on a sudden espied the statue of Serapis, and, according to the vulgar mode of superstition, raised his hand to his mouth, and paid his adoration in kisses. Upon which, Octavius, addressing himself to me, said, 'It is not well done, my brother Mar cus, thus to leave your inseparable companion in the depth of vulgar darkness, and to suffer him, in so clear a day, to stumble upon stones ; stones, indeed, of figure, and anointed with oil, and crowned ; but stones, however, still they are ; for you cannot but be sensible that your permitting so foul an error in your friend redounds no less to your disgrace than his. ' This discourse of his held us through half the city ; and now we began to find our selves upon the free and open shore. There the gently washing waves had spread the ex- tremest sands into the order of an artificial walk ; and as the sea always expresses some 346 The Village of La Riccia roughness in his looks, even when the winds are still, although he did not roll in foam and angry surges to the shore, yet were we much delighted, as we walked upon the edges of the water, to see the crisping, frizzly waves glide in snaky folds, one while playing against our feet, and then again retiring and lost in the devouring ocean. Softly then, and calmly as the sea about us, we travelled on, and kept upon the brim of the gently declining shore, beguiling the way with our stories." Here the sound of the convent-bell inter rupted the reading of the monk, and, closing the volume, he replaced it in his bosom, and bade me farewell, with a parting injunction to read the " Octavius " of Minutius Felix as soon as I should return to Rome. During the summer months, La Riccia is a favorite resort of foreign artists who are pursu ing their studies in the churches and galleries of Rome. Tired of copying the works of art, they go forth to copy the works of nature; and you will find them perched on their camp- stools at every picturesque point of view, with white umbrellas to shield them from the sun, and paint-boxes upon their knees, sketching with busy hands the smiling features of the T/ie Village of La Riccia 347 landscape. The peasantry, too, are fine mod els for their study. The women of Genzano are noted for their beauty, and almost every village in the neighborhood has something pe culiar in its costume. The sultry day was closing, and I had reached, in my accustomed evening's walk, the woodland gallery that looks down upon the Alban Lake. The setting sun seemed to melt away in the sky, dissolving into a golden rain, that bathed the whole Campagna with unearthly splendor ; while Rome in the dis- <% tance, half-hidden, half-revealed, lay floating like a mote in the broad and misty sunbeam. The woodland walk before me seemed roofed with gold and emerald ; and at intervals across its leafy arches shot the level rays of the sun, kindling, as they passed, like the burning shaft of Acestes. Beneath me the lake slept quiet ly. A blue, smoky vapor floated around its overhanging cliffs ; the tapering cone of Monte Cavo hung reflected in the water ; a little boat skimmed along its glassy surface, and I could even hear the sound of the laboring oar, so motionless and silent was the air around me. I soon reached the convent of Castel Gan- dolfo. Upon one of the stone benches of the 348 The Village of La Riccia esplanade sat a monk with a book in his hand. He saluted me, as I approached, and some trivial remarks upon the scene before us led us into conversation. I observed by his ac cent that he was not a native of Italy, though he spoke Italian with great fluency. In this opinion I was confirmed by his saying that he should soon bid farewell to Italy and return to his native lakes and mountains in the north of Ireland. I then said to him in English, " How strange, that an Irishman and an An glo-American should be conversing together in Italian" upon the shores of Lake Albano ! " " It is strange," said he, with a smile ; " though stranger things have happened. But I owe the pleasure of this meeting to a circumstance which changes that pleasure into pain. I have been detained here many weeks beyond the time I had fixed for my departure by the ill ness of a friend, who lies at the point of death within the walls of this convent." " Is he, too, a Capuchin friar like yourself? " " He is. We came together from our native land, some six years ago, to study at the Jesuit College in Rome. This summer we were to have returned home again ; but I shall now make the journey alone." The Village of La Riccia 349 " Is there, then, no hope of his recovery ? " " None whatever," answered the monk, shak ing his head. "He has been brought to this convent from Rome, for the benefit of a purer air ; but it is only to die, and be buried near the borders of this beautiful lake. He is a vic tim of consumption. But come with me to his cell. He will feel it a kindness to have you visit him. Such a mark of sympathy in a stranger will be grateful to him in this foreign land, where friends are so few." We entered the chapel together, and, ascend ing a flight of steps beside the altar, passed in to the cloisters of the convent. Another flight of steps led us to the dormitories above, in one of which the sick man lay. Here my guide left me for a moment, and softly entered a neighboring cell. He soon returned and beck oned me to come in. The room was dark and hot ; for the window-shutters had been closed to keep out the rays of the sun, that in the af ter part of the day fell unobstructed upon the western wall of the convent. In one corner of the little room, upon a pallet of straw, lay the sick man, with his face towards the wall. As I entered, he raised himself upon his elbow, and, stretching out his hand to me, said, in a faint voice, 350 The Village of La Riccia " I am glad to see you. It is kind in you to make me this visit." Then speaking to his friend, he begged him to open the shutters and let in the light and air ; and as the bright sunbeam through the wreathing vapors of evening played upon the wall and ceiling, he said, with a sigh, " How beautiful is an Italian sunset ! Its splendor is all around us, as if we stood in the horizon itself and could touch the sky. And yet, to a sick man's feeble and distempered sight, it has a wan and sickly hue. He turns away with an aching heart from the splendor he cannot enjoy. The cool air seems the only friendly thing that is left for him." As he spake, a deeper shade of sadness stole over his pale countenance, sallow and attenu ated by long illness. But it soon passed off: and as the conversation changed to other top ics, he grew cheerful again. He spoke of his return to his native land with childish delight. This hope had not deserted him. It seemed never to have entered his mind that even this consolation would be denied him, that death would thwart even these fond anticipations. " I shall soon be well enough," said he, " to undertake the journey ; and, O, with what The Village of La Riccia 35 1 delight shall I turn my back upon the Apen nines ! We shall cross the Alps into Switzer land, then go down the Rhine to England, and soon, soon we shall see the shores of the Em erald Isle, and once more embrace father, mother, sisters ! By my profession, I have renounced the world, but not those holy emo tions of love which are one of the highest attributes of the soul, and which, though sown in corruption here, shall hereafter be raised in incorruption. No ; even he that died for us upon the cross, in the last hour, in the unutter able agony of death, was mindful of his mother ; as if to teach us that this holy love should be our last worldly thought, the last point of earth from which the soul should take its flight for heaven." He ceased to speak. His eyes were fastened upon the sky with a fixed and steady gaze, though all unconsciously, for his thoughts were far away amid the scenes of his distant home. As I left his cell, he seemed sinking to sleep, and hardly noticed my departure. The gloom of twilight had already filled the clois ters ; the monks were chanting their even ing hymn in the chapel ; and one unbroken shadow spread through the long cathedral 352 The Village of La Riccia aisle ol forest-trees which led me homeward. There, in the silence of the hour, and amid the almost sepulchral gloom of the woodland scene, I tried to impress upon my careless heart the serious and affecting lesson I had learned. I saw the sick monk no more ; but a day or two afterward I heard in the village that he had departed, not for an earthly, but for a heavenly home. NOTE-BOOK Qncr. more among the old, gigantic hills. With vapors clouded o'er, The vales of Lombardy grow dim behind, And rocks ascend before, lliey beckon me, the giants, from afar, They wing my footsteps on ; Xheir helms of ice, their plumage of the pine, Their cuirasses of stone. OEHLENSCHLAGER. THE glorious autumn closed. From the Abruzzi Mountains came the Zampo- gnari, playing their rustic bagpipes beneath the images of the Virgin in the streets of Rome, and hailing with rude minstrelsy the approach of merry Christmas. The shops were full of dolls and playthings for the Bi- fana, who enacts in Italy the same merry in terlude for children that Santiclaus does in the North ; and travellers from colder climes began to fly southward, like sun-seeking swal lows. I left Rome for Venice, crossing the Apen nines by the wild gorge of the Strettura, in a drenching rain. At Fano we struck into the sands of the Adriatic, and followed the sea- 354 Note -Book shore northward to Rimini, where in the mar ket-place stands a pedestal of stone, from which, as an officious cicerone informed me, "Julius Caesar preached to his army, before crossing the Rubicon." Other principal points in my journey were Bologna, with its Campo Santo, its gloomy arcades, and its sausages ; Ferrara, with its ducal palace and the dungeon of Tasso ; Padua the Learned, with its sombre and scholastic air, and its inhabitants " apt for pike or pen." I FIRST saw Venice by moonlight, as we skimmed by the island of St. George in a fe lucca, and entered the Grand Canal. A thou sand lamps glittered from the square of St. Mark, and along the water's edge. 'Above rose the cloudy shapes of spires, domes, and palaces, emerging from the sea ; and occasion ally the twinkling lamp of a gondola darted across the water like a shooting star, and sud denly disappeared, as if quenched in the wave. There was something so unearthly in the scene, so visionary and fairy-like, that I almost expected to see the city float away like a cloud, and dissolve into thin air. Howell, in his " Signorie of Venice," says, Note -Book 355 " It is the water, wherein she lies like a swan's nest, that doth both fence and feed her." Again : " She swims in wealth and wantonness, as well as she doth in the wa ters ; she melts in softness and sensuality, as much as any other whatsoever." And still farther : " Her streets are so neat and evenly paved, that in the dead of winter one may walk up and down in a pair of satin pantables and crimson silk stockings, and not be dirtied." And the old Italian proverb says, "Venegia, Venegia, Chi non ti vede non ti pregia ; Ma chi t' ha troppo veduto Ti dispregia ! " Venice, Venice, who sees thee not doth not prize thee ; but who hath too much seen thee doth despise thee ! Should you ever want a gondolier at Venice to sing you a passage from Tasso by moon light, inquire for Toni Toscan. He has a voice like a raven. I sketched his portrait in my note-book ; and he wrote beneath it this inscription : " Poeta Natural che Venizian, Ch' el so nome xe un tal Toni Toscan." 356 Note -Book THE road from Venice to Trieste traverses a vast tract of level land, with the Friulian Mountains on the left, and the Adriatic on the right. You pass through long avenues of trees, and the road stretches in unbroken perspective before and behind. Trieste is a busy, commercial city, with wide streets in tersecting each other at right angles. It is a mart for all nations. Greeks, Turks, Ital ians, Germans, French, and English meet you at every corner and in every coffee-house ; and the ever-changing variety of national counte nance and costume affords an amusing and instructive study for a traveller. TRIESTE to Vienna. Daybreak among the Carnic Alps. Above and around me huge snow-covered pinnacles, shapeless masses in the pale starlight, till touched by the morn ing sunbeam, as by Ithuriel's spear, they as sume their natural forms and dimensions. A long, winding valley beneath, sheeted with spotless snow. At my side a yawning and rent chasm ; a mountain brook, seen now and then through the chinks of its icy bridge, black and treacherous, and tinkling along Note -Book 357 its frozen channel with a sound like a distant clanking of chains. Magnificent highland scenery between Gratz and Vienna in the Steiermark. The wild mountain-pass from Meerzuschlag to Schott- wien. A castle built like an eagle's nest upon the top of a perpendicular crag. A little ham let at the base of the mountain. A covered wagon, drawn by twenty-one horses, slowly toiling up the slippery, zigzag road. A snow storm. Reached Vienna at midnight. ON the southern bank of the Danube, about sixteen miles above Vienna, stands the ancient castle of Greifenstein, where if the tale be true, though many doubt and some deny it Richard the Lion-heart of England was impris oned, when returning from the third crusade. It is built upon the summit of a steep and rocky hill, that rises just far enough from the river's brink to leave a foothold for the high way. At the base of the hill stands the village of Greifenstein, from which a winding path way leads you to the old castle. You pass through an arched gate into a narrow court yard, and thence onward to a large, square 358 Note -Book tower. Near the doorway, and deeply cut into the solid rock, upon which the castle stands, is the form of a human hand, so perfect that your own lies in it as in a mould. And hence the name of Greifenstein. In the square tower is Richard's prison, completely isolated from the rest of the castle. A wooden staircase leads up on the outside to a light balcony, running entirely round the tower, not far below its turrets. From this balcony you enter the prison, a small, square chamber, lighted by two Gothic windows. The walls of the tower are some five feet thick ; and in the pavement is a trap-door, opening into a dismal vault, a vast dungeon, which occupies all the lower part of the tower, quite down to its rocky foundations, and which formerly had no en trance but the trap-door above. In one corner of the chamber stands a large cage of oaken timber, in which the royal prisoner is said to have been shut up; the grossest lie that ever cheated the gaping curiosity of a traveller. The balcony commands some fine and pic turesque views. Beneath you winds the lordly Danube, spreading its dark waters over a wide tract of meadow-land, and forming numerous little islands ; and all around, the landscape is Note -Book 359 bounded by forest-covered hills, topped by the mouldering turrets of a feudal castle or the tapering spire of a village church. The spot is well worth visiting, though German antiqua ries say that Richard was not imprisoned there ; this story being at best a bold conjec ture of what is possible, though not probable. FROM Vienna I passed northward, visiting Prague, Dresden, and Leipsic, and then fold ing my wings for a season in the scholastic shades of Gottingen. Thence I passed through Cassel to Frankfort on the Maine ; and thence to Mayence, where I took the steamboat down the Rhine. These several journeys I shall not describe, for as many several reasons. First, but no matter, I prefer thus to stride across the earth like the Saturnian in Mi- cromegas, making but one step from the Adri atic to the German Ocean. I leave untold the wonders of the wondrous Rhine, a fascinating theme. Not even the beauties of the Vauts- burg and the Bingenloch shall detain me. I hasten, like the blue waters of that romantic river, to lose myself in the sands of Holland. THE PILGRIM'S SALUTATION Ye who have traced the Pilgrim to the scene Which is his last, if in your memories dwell A thought which once was his, if on ye swell A single recollection, not in vain He wore his sandal-shoon and scallop-shell. CHILDE HAROLD. THESE, fair dames and courteous gentle men, are some of the scenes and musings of my pilgrimage, when I journeyed away from my kith and kin into the land of Outre-Mer. And yet amid these scenes and musings, amid all the novelties of the Old World, and the quick succession of images that were con tinually calling my thoughts away, there were always fond regrets and longings after the land of my birth lurking in the secret corners of my heart. When I stood by the sea-shore, and listened to the melancholy and familiar roar of its waves, it seemed but a step from the thresh old of a foreign land to the fireside of home ; and when I watched the out-bound sail, fading over the water's edge, and losing itself in the blue mists of the sea, my heart went with it, The Pilgrim's Salutation 361 and I turned away fancy-sick with the bless ings of home and the endearments of domestic love. " I know not how, but in yon land of roses My heart was heavy still ; I startled at the warbling nightingale, The zephyr on the hill. They said the stars shone with a softer gleam : It seemed not so to me ! In vain a scene of beauty beamed around, My thoughts were o'er the sea " At times I would sit at midnight in the solitude of my chamber, and give way to the recollection of distant friends. How delightful it is thus to strengthen within us the golden threads that unite our sympathies with the past, to fill up, as it were, the blanks of existence with the images of those we love ! How sweet are these dreams of home in a foreign land ! How calmly across life's stormy sea blooms that little world of affection, like those Hespe rian isles where eternal summer reigns, and the olive blossoms all the year round, and honey distils from the hollow oak ! Truly, the love of home is interwoven with all that is pure, and deep, and lasting in earthly affection. Let us wander where we may, the heart looks back with secret longing to the paternal roof. There 16 362 The Pilgrim's Salutation the scattered rays of affection concentrate. Time may enfeeble them, distance overshadow them, and the storms of life obstruct them for a season ; but they will at length break through the cloud and storm, and glow, and burn, and brighten around the peaceful threshold of home. And now, farewell ! The storm is over, and through the parting clouds the radiant sun shine breaks upon my path. God's blessing upon you for your hospitality. I fear I have but poorly repaid it by these tales of my pil grimage ; and I bear your kindness meekly, for I come not like Theudas of old, " boasting myself to be somebody." Farewell ! My prayer is, that I be not among you as the stranger at the court of Busiris ; that your God-speed be not a thrust that kills. The Pilgrim's benison upon this honorable company. Pax vobiscum ! COLOPHON Heart, take thine ease, Men hard to please Thou haply mightst offend Though some speak ill Of thee, some will Say better ; there 's an end. HEYUN. MY pilgrimage is ended. I have come home to rest ; and, recording the time past, I have fulfilled these things, and written them in this book, as it would come into my mind, for the most part, when the duties of the day were over, and the world around me was hushed in sleep. The pen wherewith I write most easily is a feather stolen from the sable wing of night. Even now, as I record these parting words, it is long past midnight. The morning watches have begun. And as I write, the melancholy thought intrudes upon me, To what end is all this toil ? Of what avail these midnight vigils ? Dost thou covet fame ? Vain dreamer ! A few brief days, and what will the busy world know of thee ? 364 Colophon Alas ! this little book is but a bubble on the stream ; and although it may catch the sun shine for a moment, yet it will soon float down the swift-rushing current, and be seen no more ! DRIFT-WOOD So must I likewise take some time to view What I have done, ere I proceed anew. Perhaps I may have cause to interline, To alter, or to add ; the work is mine, And I may manage it as I see best. QUARLES. ANCIENT FRENCH ROMANCES FROM THE FRENCH OF PAULIN PARIS* 1833 THE very name of Queen Bertha carries us back to the remotest period of the good old times. Many an ancient romance records the praises of her unspotted virtue ; and, if we may rely upon the testimony of a song-writer of the nineteenth century, it was she who founded the monastery of Sainte- Avelle, dedicated to Our Lady of the Woods. I know not whether you have ever observed among the statues that look down upon us from the portals of our Gothic churches, the figure known throughout France by the name of la Reine Pedauqiie, Queen Goose-Foot. She is the heroine of our romance ; and, be it said with all the veracity of an historian, for this opprobrious surname she must thank her own * A Letter to M. de Monmerque prefixed to Li Romans de fierte aus Grans Pi&, and reprinted in Ferussac's Bulletin Universel, from which this translation was made. 4 Drift -Wood feet, whose vast dimensions are revealed to us by the indiscretion of the statuary. During her lifetime she was surnamed Bertha of the Great-Feet ; after her death, she was neither more nor less than Bertha of the Goose-Feet. So true is it that the origin of the custom of flattering the great while living, and reviling them when dead, is lost in the night of ages. The story of Queen Pedauque reminds me of poor Midas ; perhaps the ears of the Phrygian monarch, who fell a victim to the malevolence of his barber, were in truth only somewhat long. This statue of Queen Pedauque has long exercised the imagination of the antiquaries. They have successively imagined it to be Clo- tilde, wife of Clovis, Brunehault, and Frede- gonde. The Abbe" Lebceuf, however, supposes it to be the queen of Sheba ; though it is no easy matter to devise why the Abbe* Leboeuf, generally so very considerate, should thus have felt himself obliged to call in question the beauty of the Oriental princess, and the practised taste of Solomon, the wisest of men. He remarks, in his learned dissertation, that the Masorites, who were great admirers of the hands of the queen of Sheba, have maintained the most scrupulous silence in regard to her Ancient French Romances 5 feet : there is, however, a vast distance be tween the silence of Biblical commentators, and the conjecture he allows himself. Now both the historians and the poets, who make mention of Queen Bertha, affirm that she had large feet ; and this is the first point of analogy between her and the celebrated statue. Moreover, the inhabitants of Tou louse, according to the author of the Contes d* Eutrapel, are in the habit of swearing by the distaff of Queen Pedauque, par la quenouille de la reine Pcdanqiic ; while we speak pro verbially of the time when Bertha span, du temps que Bcrthe filait ; and the Italians say, in nearly the same signification, " The days when Bertha span have gone by," Non piu il tempo che Berta filava. After all this, and especially after the direct testimony of the poem which I now present you, how can any one doubt the perfect identity of Bertha of the Great Feet, and the Queen of the Goose Feet ? I entertain a high respect for the Abbe Leboeuf, but a higher for the truth ; and I cannot refrain from expressing my opinion, that he would have done better to look to the court of Pepin-le-Bref for the model of the statue which he saw at the church of 6 Drift-Wood Saint-Be"nigne in Dijon, at the cathedral of Nevers, at the priory of Saint-Pourgain, and at the abbey of Nesle. Bertha, the wife of Pepin, has been often named by the most respectable historians. She died in 783, and until the revolution of 1793 her tomb was still to be seen in the vaults of Saint-Denis. It bore this beauti ful inscription : Berta mater Caroli Magni. Eginhart speaks of the respectful defer ence which the hero of the West generally paid to the virtues of his mother. All histo rians coincide in regard to the time of her cor onation and her death ; but in regard to the name of her father, some difference of opin ion prevails. According to the " Annals of Metz," she was the daughter of Caribert, Count of Laon ; but unfortunately for this hypothesis, the city of Laon was not at that time governed by a count. Some trace her origin to the court of Constantinople, and others to the kingdom of Germany. You will perceive that our poet has embraced this last opinion. In the romance, Flores, king of Hun gary, is father of Bertha of the Great Feet. This Flores himself and his wife Blanche- fleurs are the hero and heroine of another Ancient French Romances 7 celebrated poem of the Middle Ages, and their adventures, badly enough analyzed in one of the numbers of the Bibliothcque des Romans, seem to have been put into rhyme before those of Queen Bertha their daughter. Thus, it appears that Bertha can boast her statuaries as well as her poets ; but whilst the former have given to her countenance a marked and striking character, the latter, by recording her touching misfortunes, have only followed the beaten path, and added another delicate flower to that poetic wreath, which was woven in the heroic ages of our history. The poem of Bertha is one of the series of " Romances of the Twelve Peers." It belongs to the number of those great epic composi tions, whose origin is incontestably linked to the cradle of the modern languages, and whose subjects are always borrowed from our old national traditions. Until the present day, both critics and an tiquaries have neglected to examine these sin gular creations of the human mind. Even those who have been wise enough to avail themselves of them in the composition of their learned works, have gone no farther than to make such extracts as would throw 8 Drift-Wood light upon the subjects of heraldry or phi lology, hardly bestowing a passing glance upon those questions of manners and litera ture which they might suggest, enlighten, and perhaps resolve. It is strange that the press should have been so busy in giving to the world the Fabliaux, which lay buried in our vast libraries, and yet should never have preserved from the most unmerited oblivion a single one of these ancient epics ! If by a catastrophe, improbable, yet not impossible, the Royal Cabinet of Manuscripts should be destroyed, nothing of our old heroic poetry would remain but a few shreds scattered here and there through the " Glossary" of Ducange and the " History of Lorraine " by Dom Cal- met. Such a loss would indeed be immense and irreparable to those who wish, even at this distant period, to study the manners and cus toms of our ancestors. Perhaps, then, I may justly claim some right to the thanks of the friends of letters for this attempt to preserve and perpetuate the "Ro mances of the Twelve Peers of France." I now commence the series of these publica tions with Bcrte aus Grans Pi/s. In selecting this poem of the minstrel-king Adenes, I have Ancient French Romances 9 been guided by the consideration, that, in or der to gain readers for our ancient poets, it would be necessary to commence, not with the most beautiful, but with the shortest, and the least encumbered with philological diffi culties. And again, the romance of Bertha, however inferior it may be to some of the longer romances of the twelfth century, as, for example, Raoul de Cambrai, Guillaume au Court Nez, or Garin de Loherain, nevertheless possesses the most lively interest for readers of the present age. Besides, as its subject is drawn from the close of the reign of Pepin- le-Bref, it has the advantage of commencing that series of historic paintings, of which the eighth and ninth centuries are the frame. And now I will venture a few reflections upon the structure of all these great works, which I would willingly call our French Epics, had it not been decided, since the days of Ron sard, Chapelain, and Voltaire, that the French have no genius for epic poetry, and had not the word Epic, which always recalls the Iliad of Homer, been of late so much abused. But in thus submit ting my opinions to your judgment, I feel myself bound to advance nothing either in- io Drift- Wood correct or imaginary. Besides, I am well aware that at length we have become quite weary of those long and admirable theories, to which nothing is wanting but proof. All mine will be found in the works concerning which I now write to you, and which I intend to publish in succession, if leisure and the fa vor of the public permit. Independently of sacred subjects, the early French poets or Trouvtres of the Middle Ages possessed three distinct sources of inspiration ; the traditions of classic antiquity, of the Brit ons, and of the French. All the chief com positions in the vulgar tongue, down to the thirteenth century, may be traced back to one of these three sources. To the first belong the numerous poems of Alexander the Great, Philip of Macedon, ^Eneas, the valiant Hector, Jason, and The seus. But this class of traditions has. lost all its value, through our study of the ele ments of ancient history. In proportion as we have been farther removed from antiquity, we have become better acquainted with it. The writers of the Middle Ages were all more or less the dupes of the simplicity of their own times ; they could never compre- Ancient French Romances 11 hend the distinction between the fictions of the poets of the historic ages, and the nar ratives of prose-writers. And hence, blend ing the most marvellous tales with the more authentic events of history, they have made of the records of antiquity a confused picture, totally destitute of every kind of perspective. We can derive no possible advantage, then, from their undiscriminating imitations ; and their simple credulity, exercised alike towards Ovid and Cornelius Nepos, soon becomes in supportable. The traditions of the Britons, however, are full of lively interest. The romances of the Round Table, which have sprung from these traditions, refer us back to a glorious epoch in the history of Albion ; an epoch, of which, by some strange fatality, no distinct account has been transmitted to us. All that we can be said to know is, that in the fifth century, whilst Clovis was laying the foundation of the French empire, the Britons, more successful than the Gauls, repulsed the hordes of Picts, Angles, and Saxons who menaced them on all sides. Arthur was then their king. A century later, naving fallen a prey to those fierce barbari ans, the Britons cherished the memory of a 1 2 Drift- Wood hero, whose name represented all that a noble- minded people esteems most dear on earth, religion and liberty. Songs of departed glory are the privilege of a conquered people, and prophetic hopes are a consolation seldom want ing to the oppressed. Thus sprang up and multiplied those marvellous tales, which re corded the glory of Arthur, and in which the recollection of former victories was joined to the promise of victories yet to come. Not far from the twelfth century, a priest collected various traditions, and wrought them up into those religious forms in which his zeal prompt ed him to embody them. This collection, origi nally written in Latin, was afterwards trans lated into the vulgar tongue in prose during the reign of Henry the Second, father of Rich ard Cceur de Lion. Erelong it reappeared in a poetic dress in all the modern languages of Europe. Even at the present day the old prose translation would be a work full of pleasant reading. Still we cannot hope to trace the footsteps of history in these romances of the Round Table ; for the primitive story is lost amid the multi tude of episodes and embellishments. Except ing the name of the hero, whose deeds they Ancient French Romances 13 celebrate, there is nothing I do not say Cel tic, for that would be too indefinite nothing Armoric about them. The heroic valor of King Arthur is displayed throughout ; but it is directed against giants, wild beasts, or the ad versaries of persecuted beauty, and not against the oppressors of his country. His steed is barbed with iron, and we recognize the gallant warrior's shield by its golden crowns in a field of blue ; but his good sword Excalibur seems rather the handiwork of a skilful Norman ar tisan, than of an ancient blacksmith of Ar- morica. Let us not, then, seek in these old romances the history of ages anterior to the Roman, Saxon, or even Norman conquest ; it would be a loss of time and labor. But if we desire only piquant adventures of love and gallantry, fierce sabre-blows, and terrible encounters of Pagans and Christians, we shall find enough to repay the study of this ancient lore ; particularly if we take care to peruse the oldest prose translations. We now come to the old romances, which have their source in our national traditions. These are the true standard of our ancient poetry ; for surely you would not pretend, that it could claim a very elevated rank in the his- H Drift -Wood tory of the human mind, if it could boast no other masterpieces than such epics as the Alexandreide or Perceval ; such dramas as the Mysore de Saint Christophe, or even the curi ous and simple pastoral of Robin et Marion, for whose publication we are indebted to you ; and, in fine, such satires as our coarse and vulgar Fabliaux, which (as one of our most profound and erudite scholars has remarked) are generally full of such insipid marvels. Not having sufficiently compared the various pro ductions of the Middle Ages, we have hitherto been in the habit of passing judgment upon them, if I may use the phrase, in the lump, and with a sweeping expression of unlimited praise or censure. Those who have been dis heartened by the " Romance of the Rose," * * " Ce est li Rommanz de la Roze Ou 1'art d'amors est tote enclose. " The " Romance of the Rose " is an allegorical poem of no inconsiderable fame. It was commenced about the middle of the thirteenth century by Guillaume de Lorris, and completed nearly a half-century later by Jean de Meun. The bitter sar casms against the corruption and hypocrisy of the priesthood contained in this Romaunt drew upon it and its authors the anathemas of the clergy. A certain Gerson, then Chancellor of Paris, writes thus of Meun and his book : " There is one Johannes Meldinensis, who wrote a book called ' The Ro maunt of the Rose ' ; which book, if I only had, and that Ancient French Romances 1 S or the " Tales of Barbazan," * can discover nothing in our ancient literature but a con fused mass of coarse and tedious fictions. To others, whom a more superficial study of the classics has rendered more indulgent in their opinions, these same productions appear in a far different light, possessing a grace, a charm, a simplicity, that no language can describe ; nay, the very sight of a manuscript blotted with ink of the fourteenth century is enough to excite their enthusiasm. Midway between these two contending parties, and on the field which you have trodden before them, all ju dicious critics will hereafter pitch their tents. True, it is painful thus to annoy the doughty champions of the ancient Muse of France ; but the love of the Middle Ages bears an en chanter's wand, and leads its votaries blind- there were no more in the world, if I might have five hundred pound for the same, I would rather burn it than take the money." About the middle of the fourteenth centuiy the " Romance of the Rose " was translated into English by Chaucer, under the title of "The Romaunt of the Rose ; or the Art of Love ; wherein is showed the helpes and further ances, and also the lets and impediments that lovers have in their suits." TR. * Fabliaux et Contes des Poetes Fra^ois des XI., XII., XIII., XIV. et XV. Siecles, tires des Meilleurs Auteursr oublies par Barbazan. 4 vols. 8vo. TR. 16 Drift -Wood fold ; and I fear, that if, like them, we should proclaim the merit of so many productions, composed by ignorant mountebanks to amuse the populace, we should give occasion for the belief, that we are incapable of appreciating the full value of those great poems, which were destined to charm the most brilliant as semblies, and grace the most magnificent fes tivals. The same remark is true of the Middle Ages, as of our own, and of every age. If the state of society is shadowed forth in its literature, then this literature must necessari ly represent two distinct and strongly marked characters ; one, of the castle and the court ; another, of the middle classes and the popu lace ; the former, elegant, harmonious, and delicate ; the latter, rude, grotesque, and vul gar. Each of these classes has its own pecu liar merits ; but our manuscripts, by presenting them to us united, sometimes in the same vol ume, and always upon the same shelves of our libraries, have led us insensibly into the habit of confounding the manners of the court with those of the city. Hence great prejudices have arisen against the purity of some of our most estimable writers, and against the refine- Ancient French Romances 17 ment of society in those ages in which they were admired. Hence, too, all the difficulties which later historians have encountered, when, before classifying their authorities, they have sought to examine anew the manners and cus toms of an age. But the desire of proving that even in the twelfth century there was a refined and pol ished class in society, would lead me too far from my original design, and I will therefore resist the temptation. I would only ask those whom the love of a native land they do know has too strongly prejudiced against that other and earlier native land they do not know, to cast their eyes for a moment upon some no ble monument of Gothic architecture ; for ex ample, upon the cathedral of Rheims. When they have contemplated this " Pantheon of our glory," as a writer of our own day has appro priately called it, let them ask themselves whether those ages which conceived the de sign and completed the construction of that noble edifice, ignorant as they were of Homer, Cicero, and Quinctilian, must not have pos sessed a native literature worthy, in some de gree, of such a stupendous style of architec ture ? What ! Villehardouin, Joinville, Philip 1 8 Drift -Wood Augustus, and Saint Louis ignorant of all other poetry but the burlesque proverbs of Marcon, the superstitious reveries of Gautier de Coinsy, and the indecent profanities of such writers as Rutebeuf and Jean de Cond6 ! Were it true it would not be probable, and, in such a case, we must say that Gothic architec ture is an effect without a cause, prolem sine matre creatam. But it is not true. We possessed in former times great epic poems, which, for four centu ries, constituted the principal study of our fathers. And during that period all Europe, Germany, England, Spain, and Italy, hav ing nothing of the kind to boast of, either in their historic recollections or in their historic records, disputed with each other the second ary glory of translating and imitating them. Even amid the darkness of the ninth and tenth centuries, the French still preserved the recollection of an epoch of great national glory. Under Charlemagne, they had spread their conquests from the Oder to the Ebro, from the Baltic to the Sicilian sea. Mussul mans and Pagans, Saxons, Lombards, Bava rians, and Batavians, all had submitted to the yoke of France, all had trembled at the Ancient French Romances 19 power of Charles the Great. Emperor of the West, King of France and Germany, restorer of the arts and sciences, wise lawgiver, great converter of infidels, how many titles to the recollection and gratitude of posterity ! Add to this, that long before his day the Franks were in the habit of treasuring up in their memory the exploits of their ancestors ; that Charlemagne himself, during his reign, caused all the heroic ballads, which celebrated the glory of the nation, to be collected together ; and, in fine, that the weakness of his succes sors, the misfortunes of the times, and the in vasions of the Normans must have increased the national respect and veneration for the illustrious dead, and you will be forced to confess that, if no poetic monuments of the ninth century remained, we ought rather to conjecture that they had been lost, than that they had never existed. As to the contemporaneous history of those times, it offers us, if I may so speak, only the outline of this imposing colossus. Read the Annals of the Abbey of Fulde and those of Metz, Paul the Deacon, the continuator of Frede"gaire, and even Eginhart himself, and you will there find registered, in the rapid 20 Drift-Wood style of an itinerary, the multiplied conquests of the French. The Bavarians, the Lombards, the Gascons revolt ; Charles goes forth to subdue the Bavarians, the Lombards, and the Gascons. Witikind rebels ten times, and ten times Charles passes the Rhine and routs the insurgent army ; and there the history ends. Nevertheless, the Emperor had his generals, his companions in glory, his rivals in genius ; but in all history we find not a whisper of their services, hardly are their names men tioned. It has been left to the popular ballads, barren as they are of all historic authority, to transmit to posterity the proofs of their ancient renown. But although these ancient Chansons de Geste, or historic ballads, fill up the chasms of true history, and clothe with flesh the meagre skeleton of old contemporaneous chroniclers, yet you must not therefore conclude that I am prepared to maintain the truth of their narratives. Far from it. Truth does not reign supreme on earth ; and these romances, after all, are only the expression of public opinion, separated by an interval of many generations from that whose memory they transmit to us. But to supply the want of historians, each Ancient French Romances 21 great epoch in national history inspires the song of bards ; and when the learned and the wise neglect to prepare the history of events which they themselves have witnessed, the people prepare their national songs ; their so norous voice, prompted by childish credulity and a free and unlimited admiration, echoes alone through succeeding ages, and kindles the imagination, the feelings, the enthusiasm of the children, by proclaiming the glory of the fathers. Thus Homer sang two centuries after the Trojan war ; and thus arose, two or three centuries after the death of Charle magne, all those great poems called the " Ro mances of the Twelve Peers." And now let us suppose for a moment, that, after the lapse of two centuries, the mirror of history should reflect nothing of the reign of Napoleon, but the majestic figure of the con queror himself, and a chronological list of his victories and defeats. Then the exploits of his marshals and the deeds of his high digni taries would excite the suspicion and the scep ticism of the historian ; but then, too, would songs and popular ballads proclaim loudly, not the final treason of Murat, but his chivalrous gallantry ; they would repeat the pretended 22 Drift -Wood death of Cambronne, and the odious crimes with which the people so blindly charge M. de Raguse. Nor would a Roland and a Ganelon suffice ; around the new Charle magne would be grouped another warlike Almoner, another prudent Duke Naimes. Such, were history silent, would be outlines of the poetic tale ; and our children would easily supply the coloring. To return to the Romances of the Twelve Peers. They recommend themselves equally to the admiration of the poet, and to the at tention of the antiquary. Whilst the former will be astonished at the unity of the plots, the connection of the episodes, the interest of the stories, and the originality of the descrip tions they contain, the latter will find new light thrown by them upon the ancient topog raphy of France, upon the date of many ven erable structures, and upon the history of an infinite number of cities, fiefs, chateaux, and seigniories. When these singular productions shall appear in the broad daylight of the press, then shall we see France enveloped in a bright poetic glory, new and unexpected. And, on the other hand, what an ample field will then be laid open for new doubts concerning our Ancient French Romances 23 ancient jurisprudence, our ancient political constitution, and the nature of the feudal sys tem, so complicated in modern theory, but so natural in its origin and so simple in its form ! In the writings of our old romancers, the feu dal system is embodied ; it moves, acts, speaks, battles ; now with the monarch at its head, it is present at the tilts and tournaments, and now it discusses the affairs of state ; now it suffers penalties, and now cries aloud for ven geance. I assert, then, without fear of contra diction, that, in order to become thoroughly acquainted with the history of the Middle Ages, I do not mean the bare history of facts, but of the manners and customs which render those facts probable, we must study it in the pages of old romance ; and this is the reason why the history of France is yet unwritten. Hitherto the fate of these great works has been a singular one. I have already remarked, that for the space of four hundred years, that is from the eleventh to the fifteenth century, they constituted almost the only literature of our ancestors. Immediately afterward foreign nations took possession of them ; first the Ger mans, and next the Italians ; and it would 24 Drift -Wood seem, that, in thus relinquishing them to our neighbors, we have had some scruples as to the propriety of retaining even so much as the memory of them. Thus by slow degrees they have quite disappeared from our literature. The renown, however, of the enchanting fic tions of Pulci and Ariosto gave birth to a few lifeless and paltry imitations ; only one point was forgotten, and that was to have recourse to the old Gallic originals. But, alas ! what was ancient France, her history, her manners, and her literature, to a class of writers who only dreamed of reviving once more the ages of Rome and Athens, and who, in their strange hallucination, hoped to persuade the people to suppress all rhyme in their songs, and to sup ply its place by dactyls and anapests. This exclusive love of classic antiquity ac quired new force during the whole of the sev enteenth century : so that no one thought of contradicting Boileau, when he so carelessly called Villon " The first who, in those rude, unpolished times, Cleared the dark mystery of our ancient rhymes. " In the eighteenth century a kind of conser vative instinct seemed to bring our men of letters back to the productions of the Middle Ancient French Romances 25 Ages ; but by their anxiety to remove all philo logical difficulties from the old romances, they have retarded the time when these poems shall be as universally read among us, as the Ro- manceros are in Spain, and Dante and Boccac cio in Italy. The imitations of Tressan and Caylus had their day ; but as these produc tions were tricked out to suit the fashion of the age, they disappeared with the fashion which gave them birth. But the moment seems at length to have arrived when these ancient poems shall be raised from the dead. A desire to know more of the earliest monuments of modern literature is at length manifesting itself among us ; and before the expiration of ten years, it is probable that the most important of these works will have emerged, so to speak, into the perpetual light of the press. One word concerning the metre of these po ems. They were written to be sung ; and this is one point of resemblance observable between the old Greek rhapsodies and the heroic ballads of France. Doubtless the music of these poems was solemn and monotonous, like that of our devotional chants, or those village songs, whose final notes mark the recommencement of the 26 Drift- Wood tune. The ancient ballad of Count Orri is a piece of this kind ; and so also is the burlesque description of the death of Malbrouk, if you suppress the refrain.* This kind of music strikes the ear agreeably, though its cadence is monotonous ; in proof of which I appeal to all our recollections of childhood. In these old romances, as in the song to which I have just alluded, the verse is mono- rhythmic, and the metre either pentameter or Alexandrine. As these poems were written to be sung, it is evident that the pause or rest would naturally come after the fourth syllable in pentameter lines, and after the sixth in Al- exandrines.f Nor is this all. This necessary rest in the middle of the line gave the poet an * Though this song is certainly well enough known, yet it may be necessary to quote a few lines in proof of my asser tion. It will be seen that the measure is Alexandrine, and the verse monorhytkmic* " Madame a sa tour monte, si haut qu'el peut monter, Elle aperfoit son page de noir tout habille. ' Beau page, mon beau page, quel' nouvelle a ortes ? ' ' La nouvell' que j'aporte, vos beaux yeux vont pleurer ; Monsieur Malbrough est mort, est mort et enterre,' " etc. t To this rest, which was absolutely essential to the mu sical accompaniment, we can trace back the use of the hemi stich, which is still preserved by the French, though all othei modern nations have abandoned it. Ancient French Romances 27 opportunity of introducing at the close of the hemistich an unaccented syllable, as at the end of the feminine rhymes of the present day. After an attentive examination of our an cient literature, it is impossible to doubt for a moment, that the old monorhythmic romances were set to music, and accompanied by a viol, harp, or guitar ; and yet this seems hitherto to have escaped observation. In the olden time no one was esteemed a good minstrel, whose memory was not stored with a great number of historic ballads, like those of Ronccsvalles, Garin de Loherain, and Gerars de Roussillon. It is not to be supposed that any one of these poems was ever recited entire ; but as the greater part of them contained various de scriptions of battles, hunting adventures, and marriages, scenes of the court, the council, and the castle, the audience chose those stan zas and episodes which best suited their taste. And this is the reason why each stanza con tains in itself a distinct and complete narra tive, and also why the closing lines of each stanza are in substance repeated at the com mencement of that which immediately suc ceeds. 28 Drift-Wood In the poem of Gerars de Nevers I find the following curious passage. Gerars, betrayed by his mistress and stripped of his earldom of Nevers by the Duke of Metz, determines to revisit his ancient domains. To avoid detec tion and arrest, he is obliged to assume the guise of a minstrel. " Then Gerars donned a garment old, And round his neck a viol hung, For cunningly he played and sung Steed he had none ; so he was fain To trudge on foot o'er hill and plain, Till Nevers' gate he stood before. There merry burghers full a score, . Staring, exclaimed in pleasant mood : ' This minstrel cometh for little good ; I ween, if he singeth all day long, No one will listen to his song. ' " In spite of these unfavorable prognostics, Gerars presents himself before the castle oi the Duke of Metz. " Whilst at the door he thus did wait, A knight came through the courtyard gate, Who bade the minstrel enter straight, And led him to the crowded hall, That he might play before them all. The minstrel then full soon began, In gesture like an aged man, But with clear voice and music gay, The song of Guillaume au Cornez. Ancient French Romances 29 Great was the court in the hall of Loon, The tables were full of fowl and venison, On flesh and fish they feasted every one ; But Guillaume of these viands tasted none, Brown crusts ate he, and water drank alone. When had feasted every noble baron, The cloths were removed by squire and scullion. Count Guillaume then with the king did thus reason : ' What thinketh now, ' quoth he, ' the gallant Charlon?* Will he aid me against the prowess of Mahon ? ' Quoth Loeis, ' We will take counsel thereon, To-morrow in the morning shalt thou conne, If aught by us in this matter can be done.' Guillaume heard this, black was he as carbon, He louted low, and seized a baton, And said to the king, ' Of your fief will I none, I will not keep so much as a spur's iron ; Your friend and vassal I cease to be anon ; But come you shall, whether you will or non.' Thus full four verses sang the knight, For their great solace and delight." Observe the expression "full four verses," which very evidently means four stanzas or couplets. Thus, then, we may consider the fact as well established, that the old romances were sung ; and that hence there was a good reason for di viding them into monorhyme stanzas. And thus, too, we discover the reason why * Charlemagne. 30 Drift- Wood these romances were called chansons, or songs, and why they generally commenced with some such expressions as the following : " Good song, my lords, will it please you to hear ? . . ." " Listen, lordlings, to a merry song ..." " Historic song, and of marvellous renown ..." We shall no longer look for the famous Chanson de Roland or de Roncevaux in some forgotten page of our ancient manuscripts ; nor shall we longer insist upon its having the brevity, the form, and even the accustomed burden of the modern ballad. We shall now be content with a reference to the manu scripts entitled Li Romans, or La Chansons de Roncevals, which can be easily found in the Royal Library; and after having read them, we shall no longer believe that this precious monument of our national traditions and liter ature has forever perished. It is because we have not already done this, that we have always interpreted so incorrectly the passage in the romance of the Brut* where * The original of this romance was an ancient chronicle entitled Bruty Brenhined, or Brutus of Brittany, written in the old Armoric dialect, and first brought into England at the commencement of the twelfth century by Walter or Gualter, Archdeacon of Oxford. It was given by him to Geoffrey o> Ancient French Romances 31 the author, after enumerating the army of Wil liam the Conqueror, adds : " Taillefer, who sung full well, I wot, Mounted on steed that was swift of foot, Went forth before the armed train Singing of Roland and Charlemain, Of Oliver and the brave vassals, Who died at the pass of Roncesvals. " Monmouth, a Benedictine monk, who translated it into Latin prose. Afterwards, by the order of Henry II. of England, it was translated into French verse by Robert Wace, under the title of Le Brut d ' 'Engleterre. From this romance originated the Romances of King Arthur and the Round Table. The following quaint notice of this old chronicle is from the pen of an English writer of the sixteenth century. " Among our owne ancient chronicles, John of Wetham- sted, Abbot of S. Alban, holdeth the whole narration of Brute to be rather poeticall, than historicall, which me thinkes, is agreable to reason The first that ever broached it was Geffry of Monmoth aboute foure hundred yeares agoe, during the raigne of Henry the Second, who, publishing the Brittish story in Latine, pretended to have taken it out of ancient monuments written in the Brittish tongue : but this booke, as soone as it peeped forth into the light, was sharply censured both by Giraldus Cambrensis, and William of New- berry who lived at the same time, the former tearming it no better than Fabulosam histortam, a fabulous history, and the latter, Ridicule figmenta, ridiculous fictions, and it now stands branded with a blacke cole among the bookes prohibited by the Church of Rome." An Apologie of the Power and Providence of God in the Government of the World, p. 8. TR. 32 Drift-Wood We formerly thought, with the Due de la Valliere, that some short ballad was here spoken of; and M. de Chateaubriand was the first to suspect the truth, when he said, "This ballad must still exist somewhere in the ro mance of Oliver, which was formerly preserved in the Royal Library." The whole truth is that the Chanson de Roncevaux exists nowhere but in the Chanson de Roncevaux. Hitherto, by way of excuse for not reading these old romances, it has been fashionable to load them with all kinds of censure. It may not be amiss to examine some of the charges brought against them. It has been said that they contain nothing but ridiculous and incredible adventures ; that these adventures are all founded upon a pre tended journey of Charlemagne to Jerusalem ; and that they are a copy or a paraphrase of that absurd and insipid history of Charle^ magne attributed to the Archbishop Turpin. Consequently their date is fixed no earlier than the close of the twelfth or the com mencement of the thirteenth century. But these opinions will not bear a very rigid scru tiny. Those who urge the improbability of the Ancient French Romances 33 adventures contained in these writings, con found together two classes of works, which have no kind of connection, that is to say, the old traditions of Brittany, and the ancient heroic ballads of France. The former, indeed, founded upon the marvels of the Saint Graal* contain nothing but strange and miraculous adventures ; but the Romances of the Twelve Peers contain a continued narrative, the more probable in its detail, inasmuch as these ro mances belong to a period of greater antiqui ty. The impossible forms no part of their plan, and Lucan is not more sparing of the marvellous than the first poets who sang the praises of Roland and Guillaume an Comes. Nay, if any one should compare the details of the lives of our ancient kings, as they are de scribed in the Chronicle of Saint-Denis, and in our oldest romances, he would soon be per- * The Saint Graal was the dish in which Joseph of Arimathea is said to have caught the blood which flowed from the Saviour's wounds, when he embalmed the body. According to the traditions of old romance, he afterwards carried it to Great Britain, where he made use of it in con verting the inhabitants to Christianity, or, as it is expressed in the Romance of Tristan, ''''pour la terre susdite peupler de bonne gent.' 1 '' It figures in all the romances of the Round Table. TR. 34 Drift- Wood suaded that the latter have incontestably the advantage in point of probability. The second charge is equally ill-founded. I am well aware, that the antiquarians of the last century discovered a legend describing the journey of Charlemagne to the Holy Land ; I am equally well aware, that in addition to this there exists a very ancient romance, whose subject is the conquest of a part of the Gre cian empire by Charlemagne, and his pilgrim age to Jerusalem. But it is very unfair to conclude from this, that all the romances of the Twelve Peers have the same chimerical foundation ; for the only one which treats of the war in the East was first discovered by the Abb6 de la Rue, not in France, but in the British Museum. With regard to the other monorhythmic romances, far from being found ed on the same event, the greater part of them do not even belong to the age of Charlemagne. Thus, Gerars de Rotissillon, of which nothing now remains but an imitation of a later date, records the wars of Charles Martel ; Garin le Loherain, Girbert, and Berte aus Grans Pi/s embrace the reign of P6pin-le-Bref ; Raoul de Cambray, Guillaume au Cornez, Gerars de Ne- vers, transport us to the days of Louis-le-De"- Ancient French Romances 35 bonnaire ; and others refer back to the age of Charles-le-Chauve. Of the poems which em brace the age of Charlemagne, the most an cient and authentic are the following : Agolant, or the expulsion of the Saracens from Italy ; Jean de Lanson, or the Lombard war ; Guiteclin de Sassoigne, or the wars of Saxony against Witikind ; Les Quatre Fils Aymon and Girard de Vianne, or the wars of Au- vergne and Dauphiny ; and Ogicr le Danois and Roncevaux, or the expedition to Spain. In all these there is not one word about Jeru salem, not even so much as an allusion to that chimerical pilgrimage. We must not, then, condemn these romances, because " they are all founded on the pretended journey of Charlemagne to Jerusalem." I now come to the last charge. And are the " Romances of the Twelve Peers " a para phrase of the chronicle of Turpin, and conse quently of a later date than this chronicle ? All your friends are well aware that you have been long engaged in preparing a val uable edition of the work of the Archbishop of Rheims. You have consulted the various manuscripts, and the numerous translations of this work ; you have compared the most cor- 36 Drift- Wood rect texts and the most ancient readings. It is then for you to decide, whether our ancient poems, being only an imitation of this chroni cle, are to be dated no farther back than the thirteenth, or, at farthest, than the twelfth cen tury. And if I venture to offer you, in antici pation of your judgment, my own imperfect views upon this subject, I am urged to this step by the conviction, that my researches, though far less enlightened than your own, will notwithstanding coincide with them. The author of this chronicle, whoever he may be, is very far from having made good the title of his work, De Vitd et Gestis Caroli Magni. With the exception of a few sen tences which are bestowed upon the first ex ploits and upon the death of Charlemagne, the whole work is taken up in describing the crusade against the Saracens of Spain, and the defeat of the French rear-guard near Ron- cesvalles. According to the chronicler, the true motive of this expedition was a dream, in which Saint James commanded the Em peror to go and rescue his precious relics from the hands of the Saracens. In return for this, the Saint promised him victory on earth and paradise in heaven. The first care of Charle- Ancient French Romances 37 magne was, therefore, to build churches to Saint James, and to honor his relics. Not withstanding all this, his rear-guard, as every body knows, was cut to pieces ; but this, according to the same chronicler, was the fault of the French themselves, who were en ticed from their duty by the allurements of the Moorish maidens. At all events, he de clares that Charlemagne would have been damned after death, had it not been for the great number of churches which he built or endowed. This brief analysis of the famous chronicle affords us a glimpse of its design. The au thor was, without doubt, a monk ; and Geof frey, Prior of Saint-Andre"-de-Vienne, who first brought it from Spain, was living in the year 1092. Until that time, the very existence of that legend was unknown in France ; and there can be little doubt, that even the pro tection of the monk of Dauphiny would not have rescued it from the obscurity into which all the pious frauds of the same kind have so justly fallen, had it not been for the infallible recommendation, which Pope Calixtus II., for merly Archbishop of Vienne, let fall upon it from the height of his pontifical throne. But 38 Drift-Wood after all, the Holy Father never declared that this chronicle gave birth to the old French ro mances ; and we may therefore, with all due respect to his decision, maintain that .the great er part of these romances are anterior in date to the chronicle. Indeed, who does not perceive, that, if free scope had been given to the pious chronicler, if he had not been restrained by the neces sity of adapting his work to the exigency of traditions generally adopted, he would have omitted the defeat at Roncesvalles, which so unfortunately deranges the promises made to Charlemagne by Monseigneur Saint Jacques ? But there are other proofs even more incon testable than these. In the epistle which the Prior of Vienne wrote to the clergy of Limoges when he sent them the chronicle of Turpin, he observes that he had been the more anxious to procure the work from Spain, because that, pre vious to that time, the expedition of Charle magne was known in France by the songs of the Troubadours only. It would seem, then, that these Troubadours, or Jongleurs, did not wait for the inspiration of the Spanish legend in order to enable them to celebrate the ex ploits of Roland, and to sing the sad but glo rious day of Roncesvalles. Ancient French Romances 39 In the course of this miserable monkish chronicle, the fictitious Turpin happens to name the principal leaders of the army of Charlemagne. In doing this he confounds, with the most singular ignorance, the poetic heroes of different generations; as, for exam ple, Garin le Loherain and Oliver, the former of whom lived at the commencement of the reign of Pe"pin, and the latter in the last years of l^ie reign of Charlemagne. On the same occasion he speaks of the valiant Ogier le Da- nois, who, says he, did such marvels " that his praise is sung in ballads even down to the present day." The Chansons of Roland and of Ogier, which are still preserved, are not, then, mere imitations of the legend of Turpin. I feel that all further proof would be super fluous. Still, I cannot refrain from mention ing the fact, that this Turpin, whom the forger of these writings has transformed into an his torian, far from being cited in the Chanson de Roland as the guarantee of the circumstances accompanying the death of this Paladin, ex pires covered with wounds some time before the death of Roland. But in the chronicle, which was made for and by the monks, and with the simple design of exciting the zeal of 40 Drift-Wood the pilgrims to the shrine of Saint James, Tur- pin appears only in order to confess the dying, and afterwards to carry to Charlemagne the story of the disastrous defeat. Surely, if the poets had followed this chronicle, and had taken it, as has been pretended, for the foun dation of their poems, they would have rep resented the good Archbishop in the same manner in which he has represented himself. And if his testimony had been of any impor tance in their opinion, as it was in that of all the annalists of the twelfth and thirteenth cen turies, they surely would not have begun by entirely overthrowing the authority of this tes timony. The following is the description given in the famous Chanson de Roland of the death of Tur- pin. I have praised these ancient poems so highly, that I might be accused of prejudice in their favor, if I brought forward no quotations to sustain my opinion. " The Archbishop, whom God loved in high degree, Beheld his wounds all bleeding fresh and free ; And then his cheek more ghastly grew and wan, And a faint shudder through his members ran. Upon the battle-field his knee was bent ; Brave Roland saw, and to his succor went, Straightway his helmet from his brow unlaced, And tore the shining hauberk from his breast Ancient French Romances 4 1 Then raising in his arms the man of God, Gently he laid him on the verdant sod. ' Rest, Sire,' he cried, ' for rest thy suffering needs.' The priest replied, ' Think but of warlike deeds 1 The field is ours ; well may we boast this strife ! But death steals on, there is no hope of life ; In paradise, where Almoners live again, There are our couches spread, there shall we rest from pain.' Sore Roland grieved ; nor marvel I, alas ! That thrice he swooned upon the thick green grass. When he revived, with a loud voice cried he, ' O Heavenly Father ! Holy Saint Marie ! Why lingers death to lay me in my grave ! Beloved France ! how have the good and brave Been torn from thee, and left thee weak and poor ! ' Then thoughts of Aude, his lady-love, came o'er His spirit, and he whispered soft and slow, ' My gentle friend ! what parting full of woe ! Never so true a liegeman shalt thou see ; Whate'er my fate, Christ's benison on thee ! Christ, who did save from realms of woe beneath, The Hebrew Prophets from the second death.' Then to the Paladins, whom well he knew, He went, and one by one unaided drew To Turpin's side, well skilled in ghostly lore ; No heart had he to smile, but, weeping sore, He blessed them in God's name, with faith that he Would soon vouchsafe to them a glad eternity. ; The Archbishop, then, on whom God's benison rest, Exhausted, bowed his head upon his breast ; His mouth was full of dust and clotted gore, And many a wound his swollen visage bore. 42 Drift- Wood Slow beats his heart, his panting bosom heaves, Death comes apace, no hope of cure relieves. Towards heaven he raised his dying hands, and prayed That God, who for our sins was mortal made, Born of the Virgin, scorned and crucified, In paradise would place him by his side. " Then Turpin died in service of Charlon, In battle great and eke great orison ; 'Gainst Pagan host alway strong champion ; God grant to him his holy benison. " * One question more remains to be touched upon. To what century do these historic songs, or Romances of the Twelve Peers, be long ? Some have been so sceptical in regard to their antiquity as to fix their date as late as the thirteenth century; let us not fall into the opposite extreme, by referring them back to so early a period as that in which occurred the events they celebrate. But this discussion would demand a more profound erudition, and a more experienced judgment, than I can bring to the task; and above all a more extended view of the whole ground of contro- * The stanzas of this extract, like those of the extract from Gerard de Nevers, are monorhythmic. This peculiarity it was not thought necessary to preserve in the translation, as the preceding extract will serve as an example of that kind ol verse. TR. Ancient French Romances 43 versy than my present limits allow. Nor shall I ever undertake this task, unless more skil ful critics should be backward in maintaining the good cause ; a supposition which is by no means probable, for on all sides a taste, nay a passion, for these earliest monuments of mod ern literature is springing up. Even before a professorship has been endowed in the College de France, for the purpose of thoroughly investi gating the early stages of the French language, the public welcomes with avidity whatever is thus dug up from the fruitful soil of our an cient country. The mine is hardly open ; and yet every day we hear of the publication of some old manuscript before unknown. Im mediately subsequent to the publication of Le Roman de Renard, appeared under your own auspices our earliest comic opera, Le Jeu de Robin et Marion, and our earliest drama, Le Jeu d' Adam le Bossu d' Arras. M. de Roquefort has presented, as his offering, the poems of Marie de France ; and M. Crapelet, the agree able romance of Le Chdtelain de Coucy. M. F. Michel, not satisfied with having published the romance of Le Comte de Poitiers, is about bring ing forward, with the assistance of an able Ori entalist, a poem entitled Mahomet, which will 44 Drift- Wood show us in what light the religion and the per son of the Arab lawgiver were regarded in the East during the thirteenth century. M. Bour- dillon, who has long felt all the historic and literary importance of the Chanson de Ronce- vaux, is now occupied in preparing an edition for the press ; and M. Robert, already favora bly known by his work upon La Fontaine, will soon publish an edition of the fine old romance of Partenopex de Blots. Meanwhile the cele brated M. Raynouard is about completing his Glossaire des Langues Vulgaires ; and the Abbe* de la Rue is superintending the publication of a large work on les Bardes, les Jongleurs, et les Trouveres. Thus the knowledge of our ancient literature develops itself more and more daily ; and thus will arise, if indeed it has not already arisen, a sober and enlightened judgment con cerning the productions of the human mind, during that long period, bounded on one side by antiquity and on the other by the sixteenth century, the epoch of the revival of the arts and sciences. The author of the romance of Berte aus Grans Pi/s flourished about the close of the thirteenth century. His name was Adans or Adenes, according to the general custom of Ancient French Romances 45 designating an individual indifferently by his patronymic name or by its diminutive. The greater part of the manuscripts give him the surname of Roi, or King ; and M. Roquefort thinks that it was bestowed upon him because one of his poems bore off the palm at a puy d' amour, or Court of Love ; * whilst the learned authors of the Histoire Littifraire de la France suppose that Adenes was indebted for this title to the justice of his contemporaries and to the superiority of his poetic talent. I shall hazard an opinion of my own, which does not conform to either of these. We are acquainted with several Trouveres, whose works obtained prizes in the Puys of Valenciennes or Cambray ; they all took the surname of couronnf, and not that of roi. But in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries there was a King of the Minstrels (Roi des Mcnestrels). This pacific sovereign had the * The puys d" 1 amour were assemblies in which questions of love and gallantry were discussed in poetry. The name of pity comes from the low Latin podium, " balcony " or "stage," as the poets on these occasions recited their verses from an elevated place. For an account of these Puys or Cours d' Amour, see Roquefort, De la Poesie Franfoise, p. 93. Raynouard, Choix de Pohies des Troubadours, Tom. II. p. 79 et seq. TR. 46 Drift-Wood direction of the Jongleurs or Troubadours of the court, and I am inclined to think that his duties bore no inconsiderable resemblance to those of a modern leader of an orchestra. To him people addressed themselves, when they wanted a good singer, a good lute-player, or a good harper ; and the King of the Min strels, as the most skilful of all, directed and animated the concert by voice and gesture. Such were probably the prerogatives and func tions of le Rot Adents. However this may be, and although no one can doubt, on running over the names of his numerous and illustrious protectors, that Adenes enjoyed a high reputation as Trouvere and minstrel, yet I do not find that any con temporary writer makes mention of him. It is true, that in one of the copies of the fables of Marie de France, this poetess designates le Roi Adans as the author of the first English trans lation of the fables of Esop : "Esop call we this book; King Adans did highly rate it, And into English did translate it." But this copy deceived the learned author of the catalogue of the La Valliere manuscripts. All other copies of Marie de France read Li Ancient French Romances 47 rots Henrys, instead of Li rois Adans. At all events, as many of the manuscripts of Marie de France belong to the commencement of the thirteenth century, it is evident that they can make no mention of the works of Adenes, who did not flourish till near its close. It is, then, to the writings of Adenes, and particularly to his romance of Cleomadh, that we must look for information respecting the time in which he flourished, and for some cir cumstances of his life. Adenes was born in the duchy of Brabant about 1240. He doubtless exhibited, at an early age, a remarkable talent for poetry ; for Henry III., then Duke of Brabant, the warm friend of poets and yet a poet himself, had him educated with care, and afterward chose him for his minstrel. It is very possible that the pretty songs of Henry III., which are still pre served in the Royal Library, were submitted to the correction of the young Adenes, before they were sung in public. Nearly all the princes of the thirteenth century give proofs of great talent, and sometimes of true poetic genius. But perhaps their highest, their most indisputable merit was mainly owing to the choice of their minstrels. Thus, Blondel was 48 Drift-Wood distinguished by the patronage of Richard Coeur-de-Lion, and Gaces Brules by that of the king of Navarre ; Charles d'Anjou, king of Naples, was accompanied by the Bossu d' Ar ras, and we have seen that Adenes had mer ited the good graces of the Duke of Brabant. " Minstrel was I to the good Duke Henry ; He it was that brought me up and nourished me, And made me learn the art of minstrelsy. " Henry died in 1260, regretted by his sub jects, and above all by the poets, whose labors he liberally rewarded. Adenes, who, after the death of his benefactor, took every opportunity of praising his virtues, soon gained the affec tion of the Duke's children. Jean and Guyon preserved the poet from the ills of penury, and when Marie de Brabant became queen of France, she took him with her to Paris. There, in his double capacity of poet and cour tier, he was honored with the most marked distinction. In those days, poets were per mitted to eulogize the great, and to celebrate their numerous virtues. In doing this Adenes had no peer ; but whilst he rendered due hom age to those whom fortune surrounded with all the splendor of power, he listened also to the natural promptings of his heart, and both Ancient French Romances 49 respected and cherished all self-acquired re nown. He somewhere says in Buevon de Co- marchis : " If it please God and his saints, through all my earthly days, Of good men and of valiant, I will gladly speak in praise ; What good I hear of them, I will record it in my lays, If aught I hear that 's ill, I will hold my peace always. " The precise date of the death of Adenes is unknown. The last poem to which he has prefixed his name is Cleomadh, whose story transports us back to the reign of Diocletian. This is the longest of the author's poems, and contains no less than nineteen thousand octo syllabic lines. The principal narrative is of ten interrupted by agreeable episodes, such as the history of the miraculous deeds of the poet Virgil, " the greatest magician of Rome." Among other marvels, which unfortunately time hath put into his wallet as "alms for oblivion," Adenes mentions the baths of Poz- zuoli. On each of these Virgil had inscribed the name of that disease which was instantly cured by the virtue of its waters. "But the Physicians every one, Who much ill and much good have done, All of these writings did decry ; For nothing could they gain thereby. 50 Drift -Wood And if those baths existed now, They 'd like them little enough, I trow." A great number of copies of Ctiomadh are still extant, some of them under the title of Cheval de Fust. This cheval defust, or wooden horse, takes a very active part in the romance. He traversed the air, you know, with incon ceivable rapidity, and was guided in his course by turning a peg, which is sufficient to prove that this famous courser is the type of the horse on which Pierre de Provence carried away the fair Maguelonne, and which, at a later period, under the name of Clavileno, bore the divine Sancho so high in air as to make him confound the earth with a grain of mus tard-seed, and its inhabitants with filberts. Cteomadh was written at the joint request of Marie de Brabant and Blanche de France, who was married in 1269 to the Infante of Castile. The names of these two princesses determine very nearly the date of its composi tion. Marie de Brabant was married in 1 274 to Philippe-le-Hardi ; and Blanche, on the death of her husband, returned to France in 1275. Ctiomadh must, therefore, have been written between 1275 and 1283, the year in which Philippe-le-Hardi died. Ancient French Romances 5 1 I have one word more to say of this ro mance. It thus commences : " He who did write Ogier the Dane, And She of the wood, yclept Bertaine, And Buevon of Comarchis make, Another book doth undertake. " These three romances are still preserved in the Royal Library, all of them complete, ex cept Buevon de Comarchis, of which the first part only remains. Buevon de Comarchis is a kind of appendage to the old romances which immortalize the family of Guillaume an Cor- tie's ; in the same manner that the Enfances Ogier are the sequel of the romances of Ogier. It has been often supposed, that Adenes was the author of all the poems of Guillaume au Comes, and also of Ogier le Danois ; but this is an error ; for the origin of the greater part of these romances can be traced back to the very cradle of French poetry, to a period far beyond the thirteenth century. ' Adenes, on the contrary, is one of the last poets, who sang, in monorhythmic verse, the traditions of our fabulous and heroic ages. His versification is pure and correct ; but it may be said, that the subject of his narratives is the less poetic in proportion as his style is the more so. 52 Drift -Wood But this letter is already a thousand times too long ; and I therefore close these desultory remarks upon Adenes and his works, leaving it to the romance of Berte aus Grans Pi/s to plead its own cause, and to justify the impor tance which I attach to its publication. FRITHIOF'S SAGA 1837 HERE beginneth the Legend of Frithiof the Valiant. He was the son of Thors- ten Vikingsson, a thane, and loved fair Inge- borg, the daughter of a king. His fame was great in the North, and his name in the song of bards. His marvellous deeds on land and sea are told in tradition ; and his history is written in the old Icelandic Saga that bears his name. This Saga is in prose, with occa sionally a few stanzas of verse. Upon the events recorded in it the poem of TegneY is founded. Esaias Tegner, Bishop of Wexio and Knight of the Order of the North Star, was born in 1782 and died in 1846. He stands first among the poets of Sweden ; a man of beautiful im agination, a poetic genius of high order. His countrymen are proud of him, and rejoice in his fame. If you speak of their literature, TegneY will be the first name upon their lips. 54 Drift- Wood They will tell you with enthusiasm of Frithiof ' s Saga ; and of Axel, and Svea, and the Children of the Lord's Supper. The modern Scald has written his name in immortal runes : not on the bark of trees alone, in the "unspeakable rural solitudes " of pastoral song, but on the mountains of his fatherland, and the cliffs that overhang the sea, and on the tombs of ancient heroes, whose histories are epic poems. The Legend of Frithiof is an epic poem, composed of a series of ballads, each describ ing some event in the hero's life, and each writ ten in a different measure, according with the action described in the ballad. This is a nov el idea ; and perhaps thereby the poem loses something in sober, epic dignity. But the loss is more than made up by the greater spirit of the narrative ; and it seems a laudable innova tion thus to describe various scenes in various metres, and not to employ the same for a game of chess and a storm at sea. It may be urged against Tegn6r, with some show of truth, that he is too profuse and elab orate in his use of figurative language, and that the same figures are sometimes repeated with little variation. But the reader must bear in mind that the work before him is writ Frithiofs Saga 55 ten in the spirit of the Past ; in the spirit of that old poetry of the North, in which the same images and expressions are oft repeated, and the sword is called the Lightning's Broth er ; a banner, the Hider of Heaven ; gold, the Daylight of Dwarfs ; and the grave, the Green Gate of Paradise. The old Scald smote the strings of his harp with as bold a hand as the Berserk smote his foe. When heroes fell in battle, he sang of them in his Drapa, or Death- Song, that they had gone to drink beer with the gods. He lived in a credulous age ; in the dim twilight of the Past. He was " The skylark in the dawn of years, The poet of the morn." In the vast solitudes around him " the heart of Nature beat against his own." From the midnight gloom of groves the melancholy pines called aloud to the neighboring sea. To his ear these were not the voices of dead, but of living things. Demons rode the ocean like a weary steed, and the gigantic pines flapped their sounding wings to smite the spirit of the storm. With this same baptism has the soul of the modern Scald been baptized. He dwells in that land where the sound of the sea and the 56 Drift-Wood midnight storm are the voices of tradition, and the great forests beckon to him, and in mournful accents seem to say, " Why hast thou tarried so long ? " They have not spoken in vain. In this spirit the poem has been writ ten, and in this spirit it must be read. We must visit, in imagination at least, that distant land, and converse with the Genius of the place. It points us to the great mounds, which are the tombs of kings. Their bones are within ; skeletons of warriors mounted on the skeletons of their steeds ; and Vikings sit ting gaunt and grim on the plankless ribs of their pirate ships. There is a wooden statue in the Cathedral of Upsala. It is an image of the god Thor, who in Valhalla holds seven stars in his hand, and Charles's Wain.* In the village of Gamla Upsala there is an an cient church. It was once a temple, in which the gods of the old mythology were wor shipped. In every mysterious sound that fills the air the peasant still hears the trampling of Odin's steed, which many centuries ago took * Thor Gudh war hogsten aff them Han satt naken som ett Barn Siv stiernor i handen och Karlewagn. Old Swedish Rhyme-Chronicle. Frithiof's Saga 57 fright at the sound of a church bell. The memory of Balder is still preserved in the flower that bears his name, and Freja's spin ning-wheel still glimmers in the stars of the constellation Orion. The sound of Strom- karl's flute is heard in tinkling brooks, and his song in waterfalls. In the forest the Skogs- frun, of wondrous beauty, leads young men astray ; and Tomtgubbe hammers and pounds away, all night long, at the peasant's unfin ished cottage. Almost primeval simplicity reigns over this Northern land, almost primeval solitude and stillness. You pass out from the gate of the city, and, as if by magic, the scene changes to a wild, woodland landscape. Around you are forests of fir. Overhead hang the long fan- like branches trailing with moss, and heavy with red and blue cones. Underfoot is a car pet of yellow leaves, and the air is warm and balmy. On a wooden bridge you cross a little silver stream. Anon you come forth into a pleasant and sunny land of farms. Wooden fences divide the adjoining fields. Across the road are gates, which are opened for you by troops of flaxen-haired children. The peas ants take off their hats as you pass. You 58 Drift-Wood sneeze, and they cry, " God bless you ! " The houses in the villages and smaller cities are all built of hewn timber, and for the most part painted red. The floors of the taverns are strewn with the fragrant tips of fir boughs. In many villages there are no taverns, and the peasants take turns in receiving travellers. The thrifty housewife shows you into the best chamber, the walls of which are hung round with rude pictures from the Bible ; and brings you her heavy silver spoons an heirloom - to dip the curdled milk from the pan. You have oaten cakes baked some months before ; or bread with anise-seed and coriander in it, and perhaps a little pine-bark.* Meanwhile the sturdy husband has brought his horses from the plough, and harnessed them to your carriage. Solitary travellers come and go in uncouth one-horse chaises. * Speaking of Dalekarlia a Swedish writer says : "In the poorer parishes the inhabitants are forced, even in good years, to mingle some bark in their bread. " Of Elfdalen he says : "The people are poor; without bark-bread they could not live the year out. The traveller who visits these regions, and sees by the roadside long rows of young pines stripped of their bark, in answer to his question wherefore this is so, hears, and truly not without emotion, his postilion's reply; ' To make bread for ourselves and for our children.' " Frithiof's Saga, 59 Most of them have pipes in their mouths, and, hanging around their necks in front, a leathern wallet, wherein they carry tobacco, and the great bank-notes of the country, as large as your two hands. You meet, also, groups of Dalekarlian peasant-women, trav elling homeward or city-ward in pursuit of work. They walk barefoot, carrying in their hands their shoes, which have high heels un der the hollow of the foot, and the soles of birch-bark. Frequent, too, are the village churches stand ing by the roadside, each in its own little gar den of Gethsemane. In the parish register great events are doubtless recorded. Some old king was christened or buried in that church ; and a little sexton, with a great rusty key, shows you the baptismal font, or the coffin. In the churchyard are a few flowers and much green grass ; and daily the shadow of the church spire with its long, tapering finger, counts the tombs, thus representing an index of human life, on which the hours and minutes are the graves of men. The stones are flat, and large, and low, and perhaps sunken, like the roofs of old houses. On some are armorial bearings ; on others, only 60 Drift-Wood the initials of the poor tenants, with a date, as on the roofs of Dutch cottages. They all sleep with their heads to the westward. Each held a lighted taper in his hand when he died ; and in his coffin were placed his little heart- treasures, and a piece of money for his last journey. Babes that came lifeless into the world were carried in the arms of gray-haired old men to the only cradle they ever slept in ; and in the shroud of the dead mother were laid the little garments of the child that lived and died in her bosom. And over this scene the village pastor looks from his window in the stillness of midnight, and says in his heart, " How quietly they rest, all the departed ! " Near the churchyard gate stands a poor-box, fastened to a post by iron bands, and secured by a padlock, with a sloping wooden roof to keep off the rain. If it be Sunday the peas ants sit on the church steps and con their psalm-books. Others are coming down the road with their beloved pastor, who talks to them of holy things from beneath his broad- brimmed hat. He speaks of fields and har vests, and of the parable of the sower that went forth to sow. He leads them to the Good Shepherd, and to the pleasant pastures Frithiof's Saga 6r of the spirit-land. He is their patriarch, and, like Melchisedek, both priest and king, though he has no other throne than the church pulpit. The women carry psalm-books in their hands, wrapped in silk handkerchiefs, and listen de voutly to the good man's words. But the young men, like Gallic, care for none of these things. They are busy counting the plaits in the kirtles of the peasant-girls, their number being an indication of the wearer's wealth. It may end in a wedding. I must describe a village wedding in Swe den. It shall be in summer time, that there may be flowers, and in a southern province, that the bride may be fair. The early song of the lark and of chanticleer are mingling in the clear morning air ; and the sun, the heav enly bridegroom with golden locks, arises in the east, just as Olof Olofsson, our earthly bridegroom with yellow hair, arises in the south. In the yard there is a sound of voices and trampling of hoofs, and horses are led forth and saddled. The steed that is to bear the bridegroom has a bunch of flowers upon his forehead, and a garland of corn-flowers around his neck. Friends from the neighbor ing farms come riding in, their blue cloaks 62 Drift- Wood streaming to the wind ; and finally, the happy bridegroom, with a whip in his hand, and a monstrous nosegay in the breast of his black jacket, comes forth from his chamber ; and then to horse and away, towards the village where the bride already sits and waits. Foremost rides the Spokesman, followed by some half-dozen village musicians, all blow ing and drumming and fifing away like mad. Then comes the bridegroom between his two groomsmen, and then forty or fifty friends and wedding guests, half of them perhaps with pistols and guns in their hands. A kind of baggage-wagon brings up the rear, laden with meat and drink for these merry pilgrims. At the entrance of every village stands a trium phal arch, adorned with flowers and ribbons and evergreens ; and as they pass beneath it the wedding guests fire a salute, and the whole procession stops. And straight from every pocket flies a black-jack, filled with punch or brandy. It is passed from hand to hand among the crowd ; provisions are brought from the wagon of the sumpter horse ; and after eating and drinking and loud hurrahs, the procession moves forward again, and at length draws near the house of the bride. Frithiofs Saga 63 Four heralds ride forward to announce that a knight and his attendants are in the neigh boring forest, and pray for hospitality. " How many are you ? " asks the bride's father. " At least three hundred," is the answer ; and to this the host replies, " Yes ; were you seven times as many you should all be welcome ; and in token thereof receive this cup." Where upon each herald receives a can of ale, and soon after the whole jovial company come storming into the farmer's yard, and, riding round the May-pole, which stands in the cen tre, alight amid a grand salute and flourish of music. In the hall sits the bride, with a crown upon her head and a tear in her eye, like the Virgin Mary in old church paintings. She is dressed in a red bodice and kirtle, with loose linen sleeves. There is a gilded belt around her waist ; and around her neck, strings of golden beads and a golden chain. On the crown rests a wreath of wild roses, and below it an other of cypress. Loose over her shoulders falls her flaxen hair ; and her blue innocent eyes are fixed upon the ground. O thou good soul ! thou hast hard hands, but a soft heart ! Thou art poor. The very ornaments thou 64 Drift-Wood wearest are not thine. They have been hired for this great day. Yet art thou rich ; rich in health, rich in hope, rich in thy first, young, fervent love. The blessing of Heaven be upon thee ! So thinks the parish priest, as he joins together the hands of bride and bride groom, saying, in deep, solemn tones : " I give thee in marriage this damsel, to be thy wed ded wife in all honor, and to share the half of thy bed, thy lock and key, and every third penny which you two may possess, or may in herit, and all the rights which Upland's laws provide, and the holy King Erik gave." The dinner is now served, and the bride sits between the bridegroom and the priest. The Spokesman delivers an oration, after the an cient custom of his fathers. He interlards it well with quotations from the Bible ; and in vites the Saviour to be present at this mar riage feast, as he was at the marriage feast in Cana of Galilee. The table is not sparingly set forth. Each makes a long arm, and the feast goes cheerly on. Punch and brandy are served up between the courses, and here and there a pipe smoked while waiting for the next dish. They sit long at table ; but, as all things must have an end, so must a Swedish dinner. Then Frithiofs Saga 65 the dance begins. It is led off by the bride and the priest, who perform a solemn minuet together. Not till after midnight comes the Last Dance. The girls form a ring around the bride to keep her from the hands of the married women, who endeavor to break through the magic circle and seize their new sister. After long struggling, they succeed ; and the crown is taken from her head and the jewels from her neck, and her bodice is unlaced and her kirtle taken off; and like a vestal virgin clad in white she goes, but it is to her mar riage chamber, not to her grave ; and the wed ding guests follow her with lighted candles in their hands. And this is a village bridal. Nor must we forget the sudden changing seasons of the Northern clime. There is no long and lingering Spring, unfolding leaf and blossom one by one ; no long and lingering Autumn, pompous with many-colored leaves and the glow of Indian summers. But Win ter and Summer are wonderful, and pass into each other. The quail has hardly ceased pip ing in the corn when Winter, from the folds of trailing clouds, sows broadcast over the land snow, icicles, and rattling hail. The days wane apace. Erelong the sun hardly rises 66 Drift-Wood above the horizon, or does not rise at all. The moon and the stars shine through the day ; only at noon they are pale and wan, and in the southern sky a red, fiery glow, as of sun set, burns along the horizon, and then goes out. And pleasantly under the silver moon, and under the silent, solemn stars, ring the steel shoes of the skaters on the frozen sea, and voices and the sound of bells. And now the Northern Lights begin to burn, faintly at first, like sunbeams playing in the waters of the blue sea. Then a soft crim son glow tinges the heavens. There is a blush on the cheek of night. The colors come and go ; and change from crimson to gold, from gold to crimson. The snow is stained with rosy light. Twofold from the zenith, east and west, flames a fiery sword ; and a broad band passes athwart the heavens like a summer sunset. Soft purple clouds come sailing over the sky, and through their vapory folds the winking stars shine white as silver. With such pomp as this is Merry Christmas ushered in, though only a single star heralded the first Christmas. And in memory of that day the Swedish peasants dance on straw ; and the peasant-girls throw straws at the timbered Frithiof's Saga 67 roof of the hall, and for every one that sticks in a crack shall a groomsman come to their wedding. Merry Christmas indeed ! For pious souls church songs shall be sung, and sermons preached ; " And all the bells on earth shall ring, And all the angels in heaven shall sing, On Christmas day in the morning. " But for Swedish peasants brandy and nut- brown ale in wooden bowls ; and the great Yule-cake crowned with a -cheese, and gar landed with apples, and upholding a three- armed candlestick over the Christmas feast. They may tell tales, too, of Jons Lunds- bracka, and Lunkenfus, and the great Riddar Finke of Pingsdaga.* And now the glad, leafy midsummer, full of blossoms and the song of nightingales, is come ! Saint John has taken the flowers and festival of heathen Balder ; and in every vil lage there is a May-pole fifty feet high, with wreaths and roses and ribbons streaming in the wind, and a noisy weathercock on top, to tell the village whence the wind cometh and whither it goeth. The sun does not set till ten o'clock at night ; and the children are at * Titles of Swedish popular tales. 68 Drift-Wood play in the streets an hour later. The win dows and doors are all open, and you may sit and read till midnight without a candle. O, how beautiful is the summer night, which is not night, but a sunless yet unclouded day, descending upon earth with dews, and shad ows, and refreshing coolness ! How beautiful the long, mild twilight, which like a silver clasp unites to-day with yesterday ! How beautiful the silent hour, when Morning and Evening thus sit together, hand in hand, be neath the starless sky of midnight ! From the church tower in the public square the bell tolls the hour, with a soft, musical chime ; and the watchman, whose watch-tower is the bel fry, blows a blast in his horn for each stroke of the hammer, and four times to the four cor ners of the heavens, in a sonorous voice, he chants : " Ho ! watchman, ho ! Twelve is the clock ! God keep our town From fire and brand, And hostile hand ! Twelve is the clock ! " From his swallow's nest in the belfry he can see the sun all night long ; and farther north the priest stands at his door in the warm mid- Frithiofs Saga 69 night, and lights his pipe with a common burn ing-glass. And all this while the good Bishop of Wexio is waiting, with his poem in his hand. And such a poem, too ! Alas ! I am but too well aware, that a brief analysis and a few scattered extracts can give only a faint idea of the original, and that consequently the admi ration of my readers will probably lag some what behind my own. If the poem itself should ever fall into their hands, I hope that the foregoing remarks on Sweden, which now may seem to them a useless digression, will nevertheless enable them to enter more easily into the spirit of the poem, and to feel more truly the influences under which it was written. The first canto describes the childhood and youth of Frithiof and Ingeborg the fair, as they grew up together under the humble roof of Hilding, their foster-father, They are two plants in the old man's garden ; a young oak, whose stem is like a lance, and whose leafy top is rounded like a helm ; and a rose, in whose folded buds the Spring still sleeps and dreams But the storm comes, and the 70 Drift- Wood young oak must wrestle with it ; the sun of Spring shines warm in heaven, and the red lips of the rose open. The sports of their childhood are described. They sail together on the deep blue sea ; and when he shifts the sail, she claps her small white hands in glee. For her he plunders the highest bird's-nests, and the eagle's eyry, and bears her through the rushing mountain brook, it is so sweet when the torrent roars to be pressed by small white arms. But childhood and the sports thereof soon pass away, and Frithiof becomes a mighty hunter. He fights the bear without spear or sword, and lays the conquered monarch of the forest at the feet of Ingeborg. And when, by the light of the winter-evening'hearth, he reads the glorious songs of Valhalla, no god dess, whose beauty is there celebrated, can compare with Ingeborg. Freya's golden hair may wave like a wheat-field in the wind, but Ingeborg's is a net of gold around roses and lilies. Iduna's bosom throbs full and fair be neath her silken vest, but beneath the silken vest of Ingeborg two Elves of Light leap up with rose-buds in their hands. And she em broiders in gold and silver the wondrous deeds Frithiofs Saga /i of heroes ; and the face of every champion that looks up at her from the woof she is weaving is the face of Frithiof ; and she blushes and is glad ; that is to say, they love each other a little. Ancient Hilding does not favor their passion, but tells his foster-son that the maiden is the daughter of King Bele, and he but the son of Thorsten Vikingsson, a Thane ; he should not aspire to the love of one who has descended in a long line of an cestors from the star-clear hall of Odin him self. Frithiof smiles in scorn, and replies that he has slain the shaggy king of the forest, and inherits his ancestors with his hide ; and moreover that he will possess his bride, his white lily, in spite of the very god of thunder ; for a puissant wooer is the sword. ii Thus closes the first canto. In the second, old King Bele stands leaning on his sword in his hall, and with him is his faithful brother in arms, Thorsten Vikingsson, the father of Frithiof, silver-haired, and scarred like a runic stone. The king complains that the evening of his days is drawing near, that the mead is no longer pleasant to his taste, and that his 72 Drift- Wood helmet weighs heavily upon his brow. He feels the approach of death. Therefore he summons to his presence his two sons, Helge and Halfdan, and with them Frithiof, that he may give a warning to the young eagles before the words slumber on the dead man's tongue. Foremost advances Helge, a grim and gloomy figure, who loves to dwell among the priests and before the altars, and now comes, with blood upon his hands, from the groves of sacrifice. And next to him ap proaches Halfdan, a boy with locks of light, and so gentle in his mien and bearing that he seems a maiden in disguise. And after these, wrapped in his mantle blue, and a head taller than either, comes Frithiof, and stands be tween the brothers, like midday between the rosy morning and the shadowy night. Then speaks the king, and tells the young eaglets that his sun is going down, and that they must rule his realm after him in harmony and brotherly love ; that the sword was given for defence and not for offence ; that the shield was forged as a padlock for the peasant's barn ; and that they should not glory in their fathers' honors, as each can bear his own only. If we cannot bend the bow, he says, it is not Frithiofs Saga 73 ours ; what have we to do with worth that is buried ? The mighty stream goes into the sea with its own waves. These, and many other wise sayings, fall from the old man's dy ing lips ; and then Thorsten Vikingsson, who means to die with his king as he has lived with him, arises and addresses his son Fri- thiof. He tells him that old age has whis pered many warnings in his ear, which he will repeat to him ; for as the birds of Odin descend upon the sepulchres of the North, so words of manifold wisdom descend upon the lips of the old. Then follows much sage ad vice ; that he should serve his king, for one alone shall reign, the dark Night has many eyes, but the Day has only one ; that he should not praise the day until the sun had set, nor his beer until he had drunk it ; that he should not trust to ice but one night old, nor snow in spring, nor a sleeping snake, nor the words of a maiden on his knee, sagacious hints from the High Song of Odin. Then the old men speak together of their long-tried friendship ; and the king praises the valor and heroic strength of Frithiof, and Thorsten has much to say of the glory which crowns the Kings of the North-land, the sons 74 Drift-Wood of the gods. Then the king speaks to his sons again, and bids them greet his daughter, the rose-bud. In retirement, says he, as it be hoved her, has she grown up ; protect her ; let not the storm come and fix upon his helmet my delicate flower. And he bids them bury him and his ancient friend by the seaside, by the billow blue, for its song is pleasant to the spirit evermore, and, like a funeral dirge, its blows ring against the strand. in And now King Bele and Thorsten Vikings- son are gathered to their fathers ; Helge and Halfdan share the throne between them, and Frithiof retires to his ancestral estate at Fram- na's ; of which a description is given in the third canto, conceived and executed in a truly Homeric spirit. " Three miles extended around the fields of the homestead, on three sides Valleys and mountains and hills, but on the fourth side was the ocean. Birch woods crowned the summits, but down the slope of the hillsides Flourished the golden corn, and man-high was waving the rye-field. Lakes, full many in number, their mirror held up for the mountains, Frithiofs Saga 75 Held for the forests up, in whose depths the high-horned reindeers Had their kingly walk, and drank of a hundred brooklets. But in the valleys widely around, there fed on the green sward Herds with shining hides and udders that longed for the milk-pail. 'Mid these scattered, now here and now there, were num berless flocks of Sheep with fleeces white, as thou seest the white-looking stray clouds, Flock-wise spread o'er the heavenly vault, when it bloweth in spring-time. Coursers two times twelve, all mettlesome, fast fettered storm-winds, Stamping stood in the line of stalls, and tugged at their fodder, Knotted with red were their manes, and their hoofs all white with steel shoes. Th' banquet-hall, a house by itself, was timbered of hard fir. Not five hundred men (at ten times twelve to the hundred *) Filled up the roomy hall, when assembled for drinking, at Yule-tide. I'horough the hall, as long as it was, went a table of holm-oak, Polished and white, as of steel ; the columns twain of the High-seat Stood at the end thereof, two gods carved out of an elm-tree ; Odin f with lordly look, and Frey % with the sun on his frontlet * An old fashion of reckoning in the North. f Odin, the All-father ; the Jupiter of the Scandinavian mythology. t Frey, the god of Fertility ; the Bacchus of the North. Drift- Wood Lately between the two, on a bear-skin, (the skin it was coal-black, Scarlet-red was the throat, but the paws were shodden with silver,) Thorsten sat with his friends, Hospitality sitting with Glad ness. Oft, when the moon through the cloud-rack flew, related the old man Wonders from distant lands he had seen, and cruises of Vikings * Far away on the Baltic, and Sea of the West, and the White Sea. Hushed sat the listening bench, and their glances hung on the graybeard's Lips, as a bee on the rose ; but the Skald was thinking of Brage,f Where, with his silver beard, and runes on his tongue, he is seated Under the leafy beach, and tells a tradition by Mimer's + Ever-murmuring wave, himself a living tradition. Midway the floor (with thatch was it strewn) burned evel the fire-flame Glad on its stone-built hearth ; and thorough the wide- mouthed smoke-flue Looked the stars, those heavenly friends, down into the great hall. Round the walls, upon nails of steel, were hanging in order Breastplate and helmet together, and here and there among them * The old pirates of the North. t Brage, the god of Song ; the Scandinavian Apollo. J Mimer, the Giant, who possessed the Well of Wisdom, under one of the roots of the Ash Igdrasil. Frithiofs Saga 77 Downward lightened a sword, as in winter evening a star shoots. More than helmets and swords the shields in the hall were resplendent, White as the orb of the sun, or white as the moon's disk of silver. Ever and anon went a maid round the board, and filled up the drink-horns, Ever she cast down her eyes and blushed ; in the shield her reflection Blushed, too, even as she ; this gladdened the drinking champions." Among the treasures of Frithiof's house are three of transcendent worth. The first of these is the sword Angurvadel, brother of the light ning, handed down from generation to genera tion, since the days of Bj orn Blatand, the Blue- toothed Bear. The hilt thereof was of beaten gold, and on the blade were wondrous runes, known only at the gates of the sun. In peace these runes were dull, but in time of war they burned red as the comb of a cock when he fights ; and lost was he who in the night of slaughter met the sword of the flaming runes ! The second in price is an arm-ring of pure gold, made by Vaulund, the limping Vulcan of the North ; and containing upon its border the signs of the zodiac, the Houses of the Twelve Immortals. This ring had been hand- 78 Drift -Wood ed down in the family of Frithiof from the days when it came from the hands of Vau- lund, the founder of the race. It was once stolen and carried to England by Viking Sote, who there buried himself alive in a vast tomb, and with him his pirate-ship and all his treas ures. King Bele and Thorsten pursue him, and through a crevice of the door look into the tomb, where they behold the ship, with anchor and masts and spars ; and on the deck, a fearful figure, clad in a mantle of flame, sits, gloomily scouring a blood-stained sword. The ring is upon his arm. Thorsten bursts the doors of the great tomb asunder with his lance, and, entering, does battle with the grim spirit, and bears home the ring as a trophy of his victory.* The third great treasure of the house of Frithiof is the dragon-ship Ellida. It was given to one of Frithiof s ancestors by a sea- god, whom this ancestor saved from drown ing, somewhat as Saint Christopher did the angel. The ancient mariner was homeward bound, when at a distance on the wreck of a * Not unlike the old tradition of the ring of Gyges ; which was found on a dead man's finger in the flank of a brazen horse, deep buried in a chasm of the earth. Frithiofs Saga 79 ship he espied an old man with sea-green locks, a beard white as the foam of waves, and a face which smiled like the sea when it plays in sunshine. Viking takes this Old Man of the Sea home with him, and entertains him in hospitable guise ; but at bedtime the green- haired guest, instead of going quietly to his rest like a Christian man, sets sail again on his wreck, like a hobgoblin, having, as he says, a hundred miles to go that night, at the same time telling the Viking to look the next morning on the sea-shore for a gift of thanks. And the next morning, behold ! the dragon- ship Ellida comes sailing up the harbor, like a phantom ship, with all her sails set, and not a man on board. Her prow is a dragon's head, with jaws of gold ; her stern, a dragon's tail, twisted and scaly with silver ; her wings black, tipped with red ; and when she spreads them all, she flies a race with the roaring storm, and the eagle is left behind. These were Frithiofs treasures, renowned in the North ; and thus in his hall, with Bjorn, his bosom friend, he sat, surrounded by his champions twelve, with breasts of steel and furrowed brows, the comrades of his father, and all the guests that had gathered together 8o Drift -Wood to pay the funeral rites to Thorsten, the son of Viking. And Frithiof, with eyes full of tears, drank to his father's memory, and heard the song of the Scalds, a dirge of thunder. IV Frithiof s Courtship is the title of the fourth canto. " High sounded the song in Frithiof 's hall, And the Scalds they praised his fathers all ; But the song rejoices Not Frithiof, he hears not the Scalds' loud voices. " And the earth has clad itself green again, And the dragons swim once more on the main, But the hero's son He wanders in woods, and looks at the moon. " He had lately made a banquet for Helge and Halfdan, and sat beside Ingeborg the fair, and spoke with her of those early days when the dew of morning still lay upon life ; of the rem iniscences of childhood ; their names carved in the birch-tree's bark ; the well-known val ley and woodland, and the hill where the great oaks grew from the dust of heroes. And now the banquet closes, and Frithiof remains at his homestead to pass his days in idleness and dreams. But this strange mood pleases not his friend the Bear. Frithiof *s Saga 81 " It pleased not Bjb'rn these things to see : ' What ails the young eagle now,' said he, ' So still, so oppressed ? Have they plucked his wings ? have they pierced his breast ? " ' What wilt thou ? Have we not more than we need Of the yellow lard and the nut-brown mead ? And of Scalds a throng ? There 's never an end to their ballads long. " ' True enough, the coursers stamp in their stall, For prey, for prey, scream the falcons all ; But Frithiof only Hunts in the clouds, and weeps so lonely. ' " Then Frithiof set the dragon free, And the sails swelled full, and snorted the sea. Right over the bay To the sons of the King he steered his way. " He finds them at the grave of their father, King Bele, giving audience to the people, and promulgating laws, and he boldly asks the hand of their sister Ingeborg, this alliance be ing in accordance with the wishes of King Bele. To this proposition Helge answers, in scorn, that his sister's hand is not for the son of a thane ; that he needs not the sword of Frithiof to protect his throne, but if he will be his serf, there is a place vacant among the house-folk which he can fill. Indignant at 82 Drift-Wood this reply, Frithiof draws his sword of the flaming runes, and at one blow cleaves in twain the golden shield of Helge as it hangs on a tree, and, turning away in disdain, de parts over the blue sea homeward. In the next canto the scene changes. Old King Ring pushes back his golden chair from the table, and arises to speak to his heroes and Scalds, old King Ring, a monarch re nowned in the North, beloved by all as a father to the land he governs, and whose name each night goes up to Odin with the prayers of his people. He announces to them his intention of taking to himself a new queen as a mother to his infant son, and tells them he has fixed his choice upon Ingeborg > the lily small, with the blush of morn on her cheeks. Messengers are forthwith sent to Helge and Halfdan, bearing golden gifts, and attended by a long train of Scalds, who sing heroic ballads to the sound of their harps. Three days and three nights they revel at the court ; and on the fourth morning receive from Helge a solemn refusal and from Halfdan a taunt, that King Graybeard should ride forth Frithiofs Saga 83 in person to seek his bride. Old King Ring is wroth at the reply, and straightway pre pares to avenge his wounded pride with his sword. He smites his shield as it hangs on the bough of the high linden-tree, and the dragons swim forth on the waves with blood- red combs, and the helms nod in the wind. The sound of the approaching war reaches the ears of the royal brothers, and they place their sister for protection in the temple of Balder* VI In the next canto, which is the sixth, Fri- thiof and Bjorn are playing chess together, when old Hilding comes in, bringing the prayer of Helge and Halfdan, that Frith iof would aid them in the war against King Ring. Frithiof, instead of answering the old man, continues his game, making allusions as it goes on to the king's being saved by a peasant or pawn, and the necessity of rescu ing the queen at all hazards. Finally, he tells the ancient Hilding to return to Bele's sons and tell them that they have wounded his honor, that no ties unite them together, and * Balder, the god of the Summer Sun. 84 Drift-Wood that he will never be their bondman. So closes this short and very spirited canto. VII The seventh canto describes the meeting of Frithiof and Ingeborg in Balder's temple, when silently the high stars stole forth, like a lover to his maid, on tiptoe. Here all pas sionate vows are retold ; he swears to protect her with his sword while here on earth, and to sit by her side hereafter in Valhalla, when the champions ride forth to battle from the silver gates, and maidens bear round the mead-horn mantled with golden foam. VIII The eighth canto commences in this wise. Ingeborg sits in Balder's temple, and waits the coming of Frithiof, till the stars fade away in the morning sky. At length he arrives, wild and haggard. He comes from the Ting, or council, where he has offered his hand in reconciliation to King Helge, and again asked of him his sister in marriage, before the assembly of the warriors. A thou sand swords hammered applause upon a thou sand shields, and the ancient Hilding with Frithiofs Saga 85 his silver beard stepped forth and held a talk full of wisdom, in short, pithy language, that sounded like the blows of a sword. But all in vain. King Helge says him nay, and brings against him an accusation of having profaned the temple of Balder by daring to visit Ingeborg there. Death or banishment is the penalty of the law ; but instead of be ing sentenced to the usual punishment, Fri- thiof is ordered to sail to the Orkney Islands, in order to force from Jarl Angantyr the pay ment of an annual tribute, which since Bele's death he has neglected to pay. All this does Frithiof relate to Ingeborg, and urges her to escape with him to the lands of the South, where the sky is clearer, and the mild stars shall look down with friendly glance upon them through the warm summer nights. By the light of the winter-evening's fire, old Thors- ten Vikingsson had told them tales of the Isles of Greece, with their green groves and shining billows ; where, amid the ruins of marble temples, flowers grow from the runes that utter forth the wisdom of the past, and golden apples glow amid the leaves, and red grapes hang from every twig. All is prepared for their flight ; already Ellida spreads her shad- 86 Drift- Wood owy eagle-wings ; but Ingeborg refuses to es cape. King Bele's daughter will not deign to steal her happiness. In a beautiful and pas sionate appeal, she soothes her lover's wounded pride, and at length he resolves to undertake the expedition to Jarl Angantyr. He gives her the golden arm-ring of Vaulunder, and they part, she with mournful forebodings, and he with ardent hope of ultimate success. This part of the poem is a dramatic sketch in blank verse. It is highly wrought, and full of poetic beauties. IX Ingeborg's Lament is the subject of the ninth canto. She sits by the seaside, and watches the westward-moving sail, and speaks to the billows blue, and the stars, and to Fri- thiof's falcon, that sits upon her shoulder, the gallant bird whose image she has worked into her embroidery, with wings of silver and golden claws. She tells him to greet again and again her Frithiof, when he returns and weeps by her grave. x And now follows the ballad of Frithiof at Frithiof' s Saga 87 Sea ; one of the most spirited and character istic cantos of the poem. The versincation ? likewise, is managed with great skill ; each strophe consisting of three several parts, each in its respective metre. King Helge stands by the sea-shore and prays to the fiends for a tempest ; and soon Frithiof hears the wings of the storm flapping in the distance, and, as wind-cold Ham and snowy Heid beat against the flanks of his ship, he sings : " Fairer was the journey, In the moonbeam's shimmer, O'er the mirrored waters Unto Balder's grove ; Warmer than it here is, Close by Ingeborg's bosom ; Whiter than the sea-foam Swelled the maiden's breast." But the tempest waxes sore ; it screams in the shrouds, and cracks in the keel, and the dragon-ship leaps from wave to wave like a goat from cliff to cliff. Frithiof fears that witchcraft is at work ; and calling Bjorn, he bids him gripe the tiller with his bear-paw while he climbs the mast to look out upon the sea. From aloft he sees the two fiends riding on a whale ; Heid with snowy skin, and in shape like a white bear, Ham with 88 Drift-wood outspread, sounding wings, like the eagle of the storm. A battle with these sea-monsters ensues. Ellida hears the hero's voice, and with her copper keel smites the whale so that he dies ; and the whale-riders learn how bitter it is to bite blue steel, being transfixed with Northern spears hurled from a hero's hand. And thus the storm is stilled, and Frithiof reaches at length the shores of An- gantyr. XI In the eleventh canto Jarl Angantyr sits in his ancestral hall carousing with his friends. In merry mood he looks forth upon the sea, where the sun is sinking into the waves like a golden swan. At the window the ancient Halvar stands sentinel, watchful alike of things within doors and without ; for ever and anon he drains the mead-horn to the bottom, and, uttering never a word, thrusts the empty horn in at the window to be filled anew. At length he announces the arrival of a tempest-tost ship ; and Jarl Angantyr looks forth, and recognizes the dragon-ship Ellida, and Frithiof, the son of his friend. No sooner has he made this known to his followers, than the Viking Atle springs Frithiof's Saga 89 up from his seat and screams aloud : " Now will I test the truth of the tale that Frithiof can blunt the edge of hostile sword, and never begs for quarter." Accordingly he and twelve other champions seize their arms, and rush down to the sea-shore to welcome the stranger with warlike sword-play. A single combat en sues between Frithiof and Atle. Both shields are cleft in twain at once ; Angurvadel bites full sharp, and Atle's sword is broken. Fri thiof, disdaining an unequal contest, throws his own away, and the combatants wrestle together unarmed. Atle falls ; and Frithiof, as he plants his knee upon the breast of his foe, says that, if he had his sword, the Viking should feel its sharp edge and die. The haughty Atle bids him go and recover his sword, promising to lie still and await death, which promise he fulfils. Frithiof seizes Angurvadel, and when he re turns to smite the prostrate Viking, he is so moved by his courage and magnanimity that he stays the blow, seizes the hand of the fallen, and they return together as friends to the ban quet-hall of Angantyr. This hall is adorned with more than wonted splendor. Its walls are not wainscoted with roughhewn planks, but covered with gold-leather, stamped with 90 Drift-Wood flowers and fruits. No hearth glows in the centre of the floor, but a marble fireplace leans against the wall. There is glass in the win dows, there are locks on the doors ; and in stead of torches, silver chandeliers stretch forth their arms with lights over the banquet-table, whereon is a hart roasted whole, with larded haunches, and gilded hoofs lifted as if to leap, and green leaves on its branching antlers. Behind each warrior's seat stands a maiden, like a star behind a stormy cloud. And high on his royal chair of silver, with helmet shining like the sun, and breastplate inwrought with gold, and mantle star-spangled, and trimmed with purple and ermine, sits the Viking An- gantyr, Jarl of the Orkneys. With friendly salutations he welcomes the son of Thorsten, and in a goblet of Sicilian wine, foaming like the sea, drinks to the memory of the departed ; while Scalds, from the hills of Morven, sing heroic songs. Frithiof relates to him his ad ventures at sea, and makes known the object of his mission ; whereupon Angantyr declares, that he was never tributary to King Bele ; that, although he pledged him in the wine-cup, he was not subject to his laws ; that his sons he knew not ; but that, if they wished to levy Frithiofs Saga 91 tribute, they must do it with the sword, like men. And then he bids his daughter bring from her chamber a richly embroidered purse, which he fills with golden coins of foreign mint, and gives to Frithiof as a pledge of wel come and hospitality. And Frithiof remains his guest till spring. XII In the twelfth canto we have a description of Frithiofs return to his native land. He finds his homestead at Framnas laid waste by fire ; house, fields, and ancestral forests are all burnt over. As he stands amid the ruins, his falcon perches on his shoulder, his dog leaps to welcome him, and his snow-white steed comes with limbs like a hind and neck like a swan. He will have bread from his master's hands. At length old Hilding appears from among the ruins, and tells a mournful tale ; how a bloody battle had been fought be tween King Ring and Helge ; how Helge and his host had been routed, and in their flight through Framnas, from sheer malice, had laid waste the lands of Frithiof; and finally, how, to save their crown and kingdom, the brothers had given Ingeborg to be the 92 Drift- Wood bride of King Ring. He describes the bridal, as the train went up to the temple, with vir gins in white, and men with swords, and Scalds, and the pale bride seated on a black steed like a spirit on a cloud. At the altar the fierce Helge had torn the bracelet, the gift of Frithiof, from Ingeborg's arm, and adorned with it the image of Balder. And Frithiof remembers that it is now mid-summer, and festival time in Balder's temple. Thither he directs his steps. XIII The sun stands, at midnight, blood-red on the mountains of the North. It is not day, it is not night, but something between the two. The fire blazes on the altar in the temple of Balder. Priests with silver beards and knives of flint in their hands stand there, and King Helge with his crown. A sound of arms is heard in the sacred grove without, and a voice commanding Bjorn to guard the door. Then Frithiof rushes in like a storm in autumn. " Here is your tribute from the Western seas," he cries ; " take it, and then be there a battle for life and death between us twain, here by the light of Balder's altar ; shields behind Frithiof' s Saga 93 us, and bosoms bare ; and the first blow be thine, as king ; but forget not that mine is the second. Look not thus toward the door ; I have caught the fox in his den. Think of Framnas, think of thy sister with golden locks ! " With these words he draws from his girdle the purse of Angantyr, and throws it into the face of the king with such force that the blood gushes from his mouth, and he falls senseless at the foot of the altar. Frithiof then seizes the bracelet on Balder's arm, and in trying to draw it off he pulls the wooden statue from its base, and it falls into the flames of the altar. In a moment the whole temple is in a blaze. All attempts to extinguish the conflagration are vain. The fire is victorious. Like a red bird the flame sits upon the roof, and flaps its loosened wings. Mighty was the funeral pyre of Balder ! XIV The fourteenth canto is entitled Frithiof in Exile. Frithiof sits at night on the deck of his ship, and chants a song of welcome to the sea, which, as a Viking, he vows to make his home in life and his grave in death. " Thou knowest naught," he sings, " thou Ocean free, 94 Drift -Wood of a king who oppresses thee at his own rill " Thy king is he Among the free, Who trembles never, How high soever Heaves in unrest Thy foam-white breast Blue fields like these The hero please. His keels go thorough Like plough in the furrough, But steel-bright are The seeds sown there." He turns his prow from shore, and is putting to sea, when King Helge, with ten ships, comes sailing out to attack him. But anon the ships sink down into the sea, as if drawn downward by invisible hands, and Hel ge saves himself by swimming ashore. Then Bjorn laughed aloud, and told how the night before he had bored holes in the bottom of each of Helge's ships. But the king now stood on a cliff, and bent his mighty bow of steel against the rock with such force that it snapped in twain. And Frithiof jeering cried that it was rust that had broken the bow, not Helge's strength ; and to show what nerve there was in a hero's arm, he seized two pines, Fritkiof's Saga 95 large enough for the masts of ships, but shaped into oars, and rowed with such marvellous strength that the two pines snapped in his hands like reeds. And now uprose the sun, and the land-breeze blew off shore ; and bid ding his native land farewell, Frithiof the Vi king sailed forth to scour the seas. xv The fifteenth canto contains the Viking's Code, the laws of the pirate-ship. No tent upon deck, no slumber in house ; but the shield must be the Viking's couch, and his tent the blue sky overhead. The hammer of victorious Thor is short, and the sword of Frey but an ell in length ; and the warrior's steel is never too short if he goes near enough to the foe. Hoist high the sail when the wild storm blows ; 't is merry in stormy seas ; on ward and ever onward ; he is a coward who strikes ; rather sink than strike. There shall be neither maiden nor drunken revelry on board. The freighted merchantman shall be protected, but must not refuse his tribute to the Viking ; for the Viking is king of the waves, and the merchant a slave to gain, and the steel of the brave is as good as the gold 96 Drift-Wood of the rich. The plunder shall be divided on deck, by lot and the throwing of dice ; but in this the sea-king takes no share ; glory is his prize ; he wants none other. They shall be valiant in fight, and merciful to the conquered ; for he who begs for quarter has no longer a sword, is no man's foe ; and Prayer is a child of Valhalla, they must listen to the voice of the pale one. With such laws sailed the Vi king over the foaming sea for three weary years, and came at length to the Isles of Greece, which in days of yore his father had so oft described to him, and whither he had wished to flee with Ingeborg. And thus the forms of the absent and the dead rose up before him, and seemed to beckon him to his home in the North. He is weary of sea-fights, and of hewing men in twain, and the glory of battle. The flag at the mast-head pointed northward ; there lay the beloved land ; he resolved to follow the course of the winds of heaven, and steer back again to the North. XVI Canto sixteenth is a dialogue between Fri- thiof and his friend Bjorn, in which the latter gentleman exhibits some of the rude and un- Frithiof 's Saga 97 civilized tastes of his namesake, Bruin the Bear. They have again reached the shores of their fatherland. Winter is approaching. The sea begins to freeze around their keel. Frithiof is weary of a Viking's life. He wishes to pass the Yule-tide on land, and to visit King Ring and his bride of the golden locks, his beloved Ingeborg. Bjorn, dreaming all the while of bloody exploits, offers himself as a companion, and talks of firing the king's palace at night, and bearing off the queen by force. Or if his friend deems the old king worthy of a holmgtng,* or of a battle on the ice, he is ready for either. But Frithiof tells him that only gentle thoughts now fill his bosom. He wishes only to take a last fare well of Ingeborg. These delicate feelings can not penetrate the hirsute breast of Bruin. He knows not what this love may be ; this sigh ing and sorrow for a maiden's sake. The world, he says, is full of maidens ; and he offers to bring Frithiof a whole ship-load from * A duel between the Vikings of the North was called a holmgang, because the two combatants met on an island to de cide their quarrel. Fierce battles were likewise fought by armies on the ice : the frozen bays and lakes of a mountainous country being oftentimes the only plains large enough for battle-fields. 98 Drift -Wood the glowing South, all red as roses and gentle as lambs. But Frithiof will not stay. He re solves to go to King Ring ; but not alone, for his sword goes with him. XVII The seventeenth canto relates how King Ring sat in his banquet-hall at Yule-tide and drank mead. At his side sat Ingeborg his queen, like Spring by the side of Autumn. And an old man, and unknown, all wrapped in skins, entered the hall, and humbly took his seat near the door. And the courtiers looked at each other with scornful smiles, and pointed with the finger at the hoary bear-skin man. At this the stranger waxed angry, and seizing with one hand a young coxcomb, he " twirled him up and down." The rest grew silent ; he would have done the same with them. " Who breaks the peace ? " quoth the king. "Tell us who thou art, and whence, old man." And the old man answered, " In Anguish was I nurtured, Want is my homestead hight, Now come I from the Wolf's den, I slept with him last night" But King Ring is not so easily duped, and bids the stranger lay aside his disguise. And Frithiof s Saga 99 straight the shaggy bear-skin fell from the head of the unknown guest, and down from his lofty forehead, over his shoulders broad and full, floated his shining ringlets like a wave of gold. Frithiof stood before them in a rich mantle of blue velvet, with a hand- broad silver belt around his waist ; and the color came and went in the cheek of the queen like the Northern light on fields of snow, "And as two water-lilies, beneath the tempest's might, Lie heaving on the billow, so heaved her bosom white." And now a horn blew in the hall, and kneel ing on a silver dish, with haunch and shoulder hung " with garlands gay and rosemary," and holding an apple in his mouth, the wild-boar was brought in.* And King Ring rose up in his hoary locks, and, laying his hand upon the boar's head, swore an oath that he would conquer Frithiof, * " The old English custom of the boar's head at Christmas dates from a far antiquity. It was in use at the festivals of Yule-tide among the pagan Northmen. The words of Chau cer in the Franklein's Tale will apply to the old hero of the North : "And he drinketh of his bugle-horn the wine, Before him standeth the brawne of the tusked swine." ioo Drift-Wood the great champion, so help him Frey and Odin, and the mighty Thor. With a disdain ful smile Frithiof threw his sword upon the table so that the hall echoed to the clang, and every warrior sprang up from his seat, and turning to the king he said : " Young Frithiof is my friend ; I know him well, and I swear to protect him, were it against the world ; so help me Destiny and my good sword." The king was pleased at this great freedom of speech, and invited the stranger to remain their guest till spring ; bidding Ingeborg fill a goblet with the choicest wine for the stranger. With downcast eyes and trembling hand she presented Frithiof a goblet, which two men, as men are now, could not have drained ; but he, in honor of his lady-love, quaffed it at a single draught. And then the Scald took his harp and sang the song of Hagbart and Fair Signe, the Romeo and Juliet of the North. And thus the Yule-carouse was prolonged far into the night, and the old fellows drank deep, till at length " They all to sleep departed, withouten pain or care, But old King Ring, the graybeard, slept with Ingeborg the fair." Frithiofs Saga 101 XVIII The next canto describes a sledge-ride on the ice. It has a cold breath about it. The short, sharp stanzas are like the angry gusts of a northwester. " King Ring with his queen to the banquet did farq, On the lake stood the ice so mirror-clear. " ' Fare not o'er the ice, ' the stranger cries ; ' It will burst, and full deep the cold bath lies.' " 'The king drowns not easily,' Ring outspake ; ' He who 's afraid may go round the lake.' " Threatening and dark looked the stranger round, His steel shoes with haste on his feet he bound. " The sledge -horse starts forth strong and free ; He snorteth flames, so glad is he. " ' Strike out,' screamed the king, ' my trotter good, Let us see if thou art of Sleipner's * blood. ' "They go as a storm goes over the lake, No heed to his queen doth the old man take. " But the steel-shod champion standeth not still, He passeth them by as swift as he will. " He carves many nines in the frozen tide, Fair Ingeborg o'er her own name doth glide. " Thus they speed away over the ice, but beneath them the treacherous Ran f lies in * The steed of Odin, t A giantess holding dominion over the waters. 102 Drift-Wood ambush. She breaks a hole in her silver roof, the sledge is sinking, and fair Ingeborg is pale with fear, when the stranger on his skates comes sweeping by like a whirlwind. He seizes the steed by his mane, and at a sin gle pull places the sledge upon firm ice again. They return together to the king's palace, where the stranger, who is none else than Frithiof, remains a guest till spring. XIX The nineteenth canto is entitled Frithiof's Temptation. It is as follows. "Spring is coming, birds are twittering, forests leaf, and smiles the sun, And the loosened torrents downward, singing, to the ocean run ; Glowing like the cheek of Freya, peeping rosebuds 'gin to ope, And in human hearts awaken love of life, and joy, and hope. " Now will hunt the ancient monarch, and the queen shall join the sport : Swarming in its gorgeous splendor, is assembled all the court ; Bows ring loud, and quivers rattle, stallions paw the ground alway, And, with hoods upon their eyelids, scream the falcons for their prey. Frithiof s Saga 103 " See, the Queen of the chase advances ! Frithiof, gaze not at the sight ! Like a star upon a spring-cloud sits she on her palfrey white. Half of Freya,* half of Rota,f yet more beauteous than these two, And from her light hat of purple wave aloft the feathers blue. " Gaze not at her eye's blue heaven, gaze not at her golden hair ! O beware ! her waist is slender, full her bosom is, beware ! Look not at the rose and lily on her cheek that shifting play, List not to the voice beloved, whispering like the wind of May. " Now the huntsman's band is ready. Hurrah ! over hill and dale! Horns ring, and the hawks right upward to the hall of Odin sail. All the dwellers in the forest seek in fear their cavern homes, But, with spear outstretched before her, after them the Val kyr comes." The old king cannot keep pace with the chase. Frithiof rides beside him, silent and sad. Gloomy musings rise within him, and * The goddess of Love and Beauty ; the Venus of the North. t One of the Valkyrs, or celestial virgins, who bear off the souls of the slain in battle. 104 Drift-Wood he hears continually the mournful voices of his own dark thoughts. Why had he left the ocean, where all care is blown away by the winds of heaven ? Here he wanders amid dreams and secret longings. He cannot for get Balder's grove. But the grim gods are no longer friendly. They have taken his rose bud and placed it on the breast of Winter, whose chill breath covers bud and leaf and stalk with ice. And thus they come to a lonely valley shut in by mountains, and over shadowed by beeches and alders. Here the king alights ; the quiet of the place invites to slumber. " Then threw Frithiof down his mantle, and upon the green sward spread, And the ancient king so trustful laid on Frithiof's knee his head, Slept as calmly as the hero sleepeth, after war's alarm, On his shield, or as an infant sleeps upon its mother's arm. " As he slumbers, hark ! there sings a coal-black bird upon the bough : ' Hasten, Frithiof, slay the old man, end your quarrel at a blow ; Take his queen, for she is thine, and once the bridal kiss she gave, Now no human eye beholds thee, deep and silent is the grave. ' Frithiofs Saga 105 " Frithiof listens ; hark ! there sings a snow-white bird upon the bough : ' Though no human eye beholds thee, Odin's eye beholds thee now. Coward ! wilt thou murder sleep, and a defenceless old man slay ! Whatsoe'er thou winn'st, thou canst not win a hero's fame this way.' " Thus the two wood-birds did warble : Frithiof took his war- sword good, With a shudder hurled it from him, far into the gloomy wood. Coal-black bird flies down to Nastrand,* but on light, un folded wings, Like the tone of harps, the other, sounding towards the sun, upsprings. " Straight the ancient king awakens. ' Sweet has been my sleep,' he said ; ' Pleasantly sleeps one in the shadow, guarded by a brave man's blade. But where is thy sword, O stranger ? Lightning's brother, where is he ? Who thus parts you, who should never from each other part ed be !' " ' It avails not,' Frithiof answered ; ' in the North are other swords : Sharp, O monarch ! is the sword's tongue, and it speaks not peaceful words ; Murky spirits dwell in steel blades, spirits from the Niffel- hem ; Slumber is not safe before them, silver locks but anger them.'" * The Strand of Corpses ; a region in the Niffelhem, or Scandinavian hell. io5 Drift -Wood To this the old king replies, that he has not been asleep, but has feigned sleep, merely to put Frithiof for he has long recognized the hero in his guest to the trial. He then up braids him for having come to his palace in disguise, to steal his queen away ; he had ex pected the coming of a warrior with an army ; he beheld only a beggar in tatters. But now he has proved him, and forgiven ; has pitied, and forgotten. He is soon to be gath ered to his fathers. Frithiof shall take his queen and kingdom after him. Till then he shall remain his guest, and thus their feud shall have an end. But Frithiof answers, that he came not as a thief to steal away the queen, but only to gaze upon her face once more. He will remain no longer. The vengeance of the offended gods hangs over him. He is an out law. On the green earth he seeks no more for peace ; for the earth burns beneath his feet, and the trees lend him no shadow. " There fore," he cries, " away to sea again ! Away, my dragon brave, to bathe again thy pitch- black breast in the briny wave ! Flap thy white wings in the clouds, and cut the billow with a whistling sound ; fly, fly, as far as the bright stars guide thee, and the subject billows Fritkiofs Saga . 107 bear. Let me hear the lightning's voice again ; and on the open sea, in battle, amid clang of shields and arrowy rain, let me die, and go up to the dwelling of the gods ! " xx In the twentieth canto the death of King Ring is described. The sunshine of a pleas ant spring morning plays into the palace-hall, when Frithiof enters to bid his royal friends a last farewell. With them he bids his native land good night. " No more shall I see In its upward motion The smoke of the Northland. Man is a slave : The fates decree. On the waste of the ocean There is my fatherland, there is my grave. "Go not to the strand, Ring, with thy bride, After the stars spread their light through the sky. Perhaps in the sand, Washed up by the tide, The bones of the outlawed Viking may lie. " Then, quoth the king, "Tis mournful to hear A man like a whimpering maiden cry. The death-song they sing Even now in mine ear. What avails it ? He who is born must die.' " io8 . Drift-Wood He then says that he himself is about to de part for Valhalla ; that a death on the straw becomes not a King of the Northmen. He would fain die the death of a hero ; and he cuts on his arms and breasts the runes of death, runes to Odin. And while the blood drops from among the silvery hairs of his na ked bosom, he calls for a flowing goblet, and drinks a health to the glorious North ; and in spirit hears the Gjallar Horn,* and goes to Valhalla, where glory, like a golden helmet, crowns the coming guest. XXI The next canto is the Drapa, or Dirge of King Ring, in the unrhymed alliterative stan zas of the old Icelandic poetry. The Scald sings how the high-descended monarch sits in his tomb, with his shield on his arm and his battle-sword by his side. His gallant steed, too, neighs in the tomb, and paws the ground with his golden hoofs.f But the spirit of the * The Gjallar Horn was blown by Heimdal, the watchman of the gods. He was the son of nine virgins, and was called "the God with the Golden Teeth." His watch-tower was upon the rainbow, and he blew his horn whenever a fallen hero rode over the Bridge of Heaven to Valhalla. f It was a Scandinavian, as well as a Scythian custom, to Frithiof's Saga 109 departed rides over the rainbow, which bends beneath its burden, up to the open gates of Valhalla. Here the gods receive him, and garlands are woven for him of golden grain with blue flowers intermingled, and Brage sings a song of praise and welcome to the wise old Ring. "Now rideth royal Ring over Bifrost, * Sways with the burden The bending bridge. Open spring Valhall's Vaulted doors widely ; Asanar'sf hands are Hanging in his. "Brage, the graybeard, Gripeth the gold string, Stiller now soundeth Song than before. Listening leaneth Vanadi's J lovely Breast at the banquet, Burning to hear. " ' High sings the sword-blade Steady on helmet ; Boisterous the billows, and Bloody alway. bury the favorite steed of a warrior in the same tomb with him. * The rainbow. + The great gods. J Freya. i io Drift -Wood Strength, of the gracious Gods is the gift, and Bitter as Berserk Biteth in shield. " ' Welcome, thou wise one, Heir of Valhalla ! Long learn the Northland Laud to thy name. Brage doth hail thee, Honored with horn-drink, Nornorna's herald Now from the North. ' " XXII The twenty-second canto describes, in a very spirited and beautiful style, the election of a new king. The yeoman takes his sword from the wall, and, with clang of shields and sound of arms, the people gather together in a public assembly, or Ting, whose roof is the sky of heaven. Here Frithiof harangues them, bearing aloft on his shield the little son of Ring, who sits there like a king on his throne, or a young eagle on the cliff, gazing upward at the sun. Frithiof hails him as King of the Northmen, and swears to protect his kingdom ; and when the little boy, tired of sitting on the shield, leaps fearlessly to the ground, the peo ple raise a shout, and acknowledge him for Fritkiofs Saga in their monarch, and Jarl Frithiof as regent till the boy grows older. But Frithiof has other thoughts than these. He must away to meet the Fates at Balder's ruined temple, and make atonement to the offended god. And thus he departs. XXIII Canto twenty-third is entitled Frithiof at his Father's Grave. The sun is sinking like a golden shield in the ocean, and the hills and vales around him, and the fragrant flowers, and song of birds, and sound of the sea, and shadow of trees, awaken in his softened heart the memory of other days. And he calls aloud to the gods for pardon of his crime, and to the spirit of his father that he should come from his grave and bring him peace and for giveness from the city of the gods. And lo ! amid the evening shadows, from the western wave uprising, landward floats the Fata Mor gana, and, sinking down upon the spot where Balder's temple once stood, assumes itself the form of a temple, with columns of dark blue steel, and an altar of precious stone. At the door, leaning upon their shields, stand the Des tinies. And the Destiny of the Past points to H2 Drift -Wood the solitude around, and the Destiny of the Future to a beautiful temple newly risen from the sea. While Frithiof gazes in wonder at the sight, all vanishes away, like a vision of the night. But the vision is interpreted by the hero without the aid of prophet or of sooth sayer. XXIV Canto twenty-fourth is the Atonement The temple of Balder has been rebuilt, and with such magnificence that the North beholds in it an image of Valhalla. And two by two, in solemn procession, walk therein the twelve virgins, clad in garments of silver tissue, with roses upon their cheeks, and roses in their in nocent hearts. They sing a solemn song of Balder, how much beloved he was by all that lived, and how he fell, by Hoder's arrow slain, and earth and sea and heaven wept. And the sound of the song is not like the sound of a human voice, but like the tones which come from the halls of the gods ; like the thoughts of a maiden dreaming of her lover, when the nightingale is singing in the midnight still ness, and the moon shines over the beech- trees of the North. Frithiof listens to the Frithiofs Saga 113 song ; and as he listens, all thoughts of ven geance and of human hate melt within him, as the icy breastplate melts from the bosom of the fields when the sun shines in spring. At this moment the high-priest of Balder enters, venerable with his long, silver beard ; and, wel coming the Viking to the temple he has built, he delivers for his special edification a long homily on things human and divine, with a short catechism of Northern mythology. He tells him, likewise, very truly, that more ac ceptable to the gods than the smoke of burnt- offerings is the 'sacrifice of one's own vindic tive spirit, the hate of a human soul ; and then speaks of the Virgin's Son, "Sent by All-father to declare aright the nines On Destiny's black shield-rim, unexplained till now. Peace was his battle-cry, and his white sword was love, And innocence sat dove-like on his silver helm. Holy he lived and taught, he died and he forgave, And under distant palm-trees stands his grave in light. His doctrine, it is said, wanders from dale to dale, Melting the hard of heart, and laying hand in hand, And builds the realm of Peace on the atoned earth. I do not know his lore aright, but darkly still In better hours I have presentiment thereof, And every human heart feeleth alike with mine. One day, that know I, shall it come, and lightly wave Its white and dove-like wings over the Northern hills. ii4 Drift -Wood But there shall be no more a North for us that day, And oaks shall whisper soft o'er the graves of the forgotten. " He then . speaks of Frithiof's hatred to Bele's sons ; and tells him that Helge is dead, and that Halfdan sits alone on Bele's throne, urging him at the same time to sacrifice to the gods his desire of vengeance, and proffer the hand of friendship to the young king. This is done straightway, Halfdan opportune ly coming in at that moment ; and the priest removes forthwith the ban from the Varg-i- Veum, the sacrilegious and outlawed man. And then Ingeborg enters the vaulted temple, followed by maidens, as the moon is followed by stars in the vaulted sky ; and from the hand of her brother Frithiof receives the bride of his youth, and they are married in Balder's temple. And here endeth the Legend of Frithiof the Valiant, the noblest poetic contribution which Sweden has yet made to the literary history of the world. TWICE-TOLD TALES 1837 WHEN a new star rises in the heavens, people gaze after it for a season with the naked eye, and with such telescopes as they can find. In the stream of thought which flows so peacefully deep and clear through the pages of this book, we see the bright reflection of a spiritual star, after which men will be fain to gaze " with the naked eye, and with the spy glasses of criticism." This star is but newly risen ; and erelong the observations of numer ous star-gazers, perched upon arm-chairs and editors' tables, will inform the world of its magnitude and its place in the heaven of poetry, whether it be in the paw of the Great Bear, or on the forehead of Pegasus, or on the strings of the Lyre, or in the wing of the Eagle. My own observations are as follows. To this little work let us say, as was said to Sidney's Arcadia : " Live ever, sweet, sweet book ! the simple image of his gentle wit, and ii 6 Drift -Wood the golden pillar of his noble courage ; and ever notify unto the world that thy writer was the secretary of eloquence, the breath of the Muses, the honey-bee of the daintiest flowers of wit and art." It comes from the hand of a man of genius. Everything about it has the freshness of morning and of May. These flow ers and green leaves of poetry have not the dust of the highway upon them. They have been gathered fresh from the secret places of a peaceful and gentle heart. There flow deep waters, silent, calm, and cool ; and the green trees look into them and " God's blue heaven." This book, though in prose, is written nev ertheless by a poet. He looks upon all things in the spirit of love, and with lively sympa thies ; for to him external form is but the rep resentation of internal being, all things having a life, an end and aim. The true poet is a friendly man. He takes to his arms even cold and inanimate things, and rejoices in his heart, as did St. Francis of old, when he kissed his bride of snow. To his eye all things are beautiful and holy ; all are objects of feeling and of song, from, the great hierarchy of the silent, saint-like stars, that rule the night, down to the little flowers which are "stars in the firmament of the earth." Twice -To Id Tales 117 It is one of the attributes of the poetic mind to feel a universal sympathy with Nature, both in the material world and in the soul of man. It identifies itself likewise with every object of its sympathy, giving it new sensation and poet ic life, whatever that object may be, whether man, bird, beast, flower, or star. As to the pure mind all things are pure, so to the poetic mind all things are poetical. To such souls no age and no country can be utterly dull and prosaic. They make unto themselves their age and country ; dwelling in the universal mind of man, and in the universal forms of things. Of such is the author of this book. There are many who think that the ages of poetry and romance are gone by. They look upon the Present as a dull, unrhymed, and prosaic translation of a brilliant and poetic Past. Their dreams are of the days of eld ; of the Dark Ages, the ages of Chivalry, and Bards, and Troubadours, and Minnesingers ; and the times of which Milton says : " The villages also must have their visitors to inquire what lectures the bagpipe, and the rebbec reads even to the ballatry, and the gammuth of every municipal fiddler, for these are the countryman's Arcadia and his Monte Mayors." n8 Drift -Wood We all love ancient ballads. Pleasantly to all ears sounds the voice of the people in song, swelling fitfully through the desolate chambers of the Past like the wind of evening among ruins. And yet this voice does not persuade us that the days of balladry were more poetic than our own. The spirit of the Past pleads for itself, and the spirit of the Present likewise. If poetry be an element of the human mind, and consequently in accordance with nature and truth, it would be strange indeed if, as the human mind advances, poetry should recede. The truth is, that, when we look back upon the Past, we see only its bright and poetic features. All that is dull, prosaic, and com monplace, is lost in the shadowy distance. We see the moated castle on the hill, and, " Golden and red, above it The clouds float gorgeously "; but we see not the valley below, where the patient bondman toils like a beast of burden. We see the tree-tops waving in the wind, and hear the merry birds singing under their green roofs ; but we forget that at their roots there are swine feeding upon acorns. With the Present it is not so. We stand too near to see objects in a picturesque light. What to Twice -To Id Tales 119 others, at a distance, is a bright and folded summer cloud, is to us, who are in it, a dismal, drizzling rain. Thus has it been since the world began. Ours is not the only Present which has seemed dull, commonplace, and prosaic. The truth is, the heaven of poetry and ro mance still lies around us and within us. So long as truth is stranger than fiction, the ele ments of poetry and romance will not be want ing in common life. If, invisible ourselves, we could follow a single human being through a single day of his life, and know all his secret thoughts and hopes and anxieties, his prayers and tears and good resolves, his passionate delights and struggles against temptation, all that excites, and all that soothes the heart of man, we should have poetry enough to fill a volume. Nay, set the imagination free, like another bottle-imp, and bid it lift for you the roofs of the city, street by street, and after a single night's observation you may sit down and write poetry and romance for the rest of your life. The Twice-Told Tales are so called from having been first published in various annuals and magazines, and now collected together and 120 Drift- Wood told a second time in a volume. And a very delightful volume they make ; one of those which excite in you a feeling of personal inter est for the author. A calm, thoughtful face seems to be looking at you from every page, with now a pleasant smile, and now a shade of sadness stealing over its features. Sometimes, though not often, it glares wildly at you, with a strange and painful expression, as, in the German romance, the bronze knocker of the Archivarius Lindhorst makes up faces at the Student Anselmus. One of the prominent characteristics of these tales is, that they are national in their character. The author has chosen his themes among the traditions of New England ; the dusty legends of " the good old Colony times, when we lived uncjer a king." This is the right material for story. It seems as natural to make tales out of old, tumble-down tradi tions, as canes and snuff-boxes out of old steeples, or trees planted by great men. The dreary, old Puritanical times begin to look ro mantic in the distance. Who would not like to have strolled through the city of Agamenti- cus, where a market was held every week, on Wednesday, and there were two annual fairs at Twice -Told Tales 121 St. James's and St. Paul's ? Who would not like to have been present at the court of the worshipful Thomas Gorges, in those palmy days of the law when Tom Heard was fined five shillings for being drunk, and John Payne the same, " for swearing one oath " ? Who would not like to have seen Thomas Taylor presented to the grand jury "for abusing Cap tain Raynes, being in authority, by thee-ing and thou-ing him " ; and John Wardell like wise, for denying Cambridge College to be an ordinance of God ; and people fined for wink ing at comely damsels in church ; and others for being common sleepers there on the Lord's day ? Truly, many quaint and quiet customs, many comic scenes and strange adventures, many wild and wondrous things, fit for humor ous tale and soft, pathetic story, lie all about us here in New England. There is no tradi tion of the Rhine nor of the Black Forest which surpasses in beauty that of the Phantom Ship of New Haven. The Flying Dutchman of the Cape, and the Klabotermann of the Bal tic, are nowise superior. The story of Peter Rugg, the man who could not find Boston, is as good as that told by Gervase of Tilbury, of a man who gave himself to the devils by an 122 Drift-Wood unfortunate imprecation, and was used by them as a wheelbarrow ; and the Great Carbuncle of the White Mountains shines with no less splendor than that which illuminated the sub terranean palace in Rome, as related by Wil liam of Malmesbury. Another characteristic of this writer is the exceeding beauty of his style. It is as clear as running waters. Indeed he uses words as mere stepping-stones, upon which, with a free and youthful bound, his spirit crosses and recrosses the bright and rushing stream of thought. Some writers of the present day have introduced a kind of Gothic architecture into their style. All is fantastic, vast, and wondrous in the outward form, and within is mysterious twilight, and the swelling sound of an organ, and a voice chanting hymns in Latin, which need a translation for many of the crowd. To this I do not object. Let the priest chant in what language he will, so long as he understands his own Mass-book. But if he wishes the world to listen and be edified, he will do well to choose a language that is generally understood. THE GREAT METROPOLIS 1837 I HAVE an affection for a great city. I feel safe in the neighborhood of man, and enjoy "the sweet security of streets." The ex citement of the crowd is pleasant to me. I find sermons in the stones of the pavement, and in the continuous sound of voices and wheels and footsteps hear the "sad music of humanity." I feel that life is not a dream, but a reality ; that the beings around me are not the insects of an hour, but the pilgrims of an eternity ; each with his history of thousand-fold occurrences, insignificant it may be to others, but all-impor tant to himself; each with a human heart, whose fibres are woven into the great web of human sympathies ; and none so small that, when he dies, some of the mysterious meshes are not broken. The green earth, and the air, and the sea, all living and all lifeless things, preach the gospel of a good providence ; but most of all does man, in his crowded cities, 124 Drift-Wood and in his manifold powers and wants and pas sions and deeds, preach this same gospel. The greatest works of his handicraft delight me hardly less than the greatest works of Nature. They are " the masterpieces of her own master piece." Architecture, and painting, and sculp ture, and music, and epic poems, and all the forms of art, wherein the hand of genius is visible, please me evermore, for they conduct me into the fellowship of great minds. And thus my sympathies are with men, and streets, and city gates, and towers from which the great bells sound solemnly and slow, and cathedral doors, where venerable statues, holding books in their hands, look down like sentinels upon the church-going multitude, and the birds of the air come and build their nests in the arms of saints and apostles. And more than all this, in great cities we learn to look the world in the face. We shake hands with stern realities. We see ourselves in others. We become acquainted with the motley, many-sided life of man ; and finally learn, like Jean Paul, to "look upon a metrop olis as a collection of villages ; a village as some blind alley in a metropolis ; fame as the talk of neighbors at the street door ; a library The Great Metropolis 125 as a learned conversation ; joy as a second ; sorrow as a minute ; life as a day ; and three things as all in all, God, Creation, Virtue." Forty-five miles westward from the North Sea, in the lap of a broad and pleasant val ley watered by the Thames, stands the Great Metropolis. It comprises the City of London and its Liberties, with the City and Liberties of Westminster, the Borough of Southwark, and upwards of thirty of the contiguous vil lages of Middlesex and .Surrey. East and west, its greatest length is about eight miles ; north and south, its greatest breadth about five ; its circumference, from twenty to thirty. Its population is estimated at two millions. The vast living tide goes thundering through its ten thousand streets in one unbroken roar. The noise of the great thoroughfares is deaf ening. But you step aside into a by-lane, and anon you emerge into little green squares half filled with sunshine, half with shade, where no sound of living thing is heard, save the voice of a bird or a child, and amid solitude and si lence you gaze in wonder at the great trees "growing in the heart of a brick-and-mortar wilderness." Then there are the three parks, Hyde, Regent's, and St. James's, where you 126 Drift-Wood may lose yourself in green alleys, and dream you are in the country ; Westminster Abbey, with its tombs and solemn cloisters, where, with George Herbert, you may think that, "when the bells do chime, 'tis angels' music"; and high above all, half hidden in smoke and vapor, rises the dome of St Paul's. These are a few of the more striking fea tures of London. More striking still is the Thames. Above the town, by Kingston and Twickenham, it winds through groves and meadows green, a rural, silver stream. The traveller who sees it here for the first time can hardly believe that this is the mighty river which bathes the feet of London. He asks, perhaps, the coachman what stream it is ; and the coachman answers, with a stare of wonder and pity, "The Thames, sir." Pleasure-boats are gliding back and forth, and stately swans float, like water-lilies, on its bosom. On its- banks are villages and church towers, beneath which, among the patriarchs of the hamlet, lie many gifted sons of song, "in sepulchres un- hearsed and green." In and below London the whole scene is changed. Let us view it by night. Lamps are gleaming along shore and on the bridges, and The Great Metropolis 127 a full moon rising over the Borough of South- wark. The moonbeams silver the rippling, yellow tide, wherein also flare the shore lamps with a lambent, flickering gleam. Barges and wherries move to and fro ; and heavy-laden luggers are sweeping up stream with the ris ing tide, swinging sideways, with loose, flap ping sails. Both sides of the river are crowded with sea and river craft, whose black hulks lie in shadow, and whose tapering masts rise up into the moonlight. A distant sound of music floats on the air ; a harp, and a flute, and a horn. It has an unearthly sound ; and lo ! like a shooting star, a light comes gliding on. It is a signal-lamp at the mast-head of a steam- vessel, that flits by, cloud-like and indistinct. And from all this scene goes up a sound of human voices, curses, laughter, and singing, mingled with the monotonous roar of the city, " the clashing and careering streams of life, hurrying to lose themselves in the imper vious gloom of eternity." And now the midnight is past, and amid the general silence the clock strikes, one, two. Far distant, from some belfry in the suburbs, comes the first sound, so indistinct as hard ly to be distinguished from the crowing of a cock. Then, close at hand, the great bell of 128 Drift-Wood St. Paul's, with a heavy, solemn sound, one, two. It is answered from Southwark ; then at a distance like an echo ; and then all around you, with various and intermingling clang, like a chime of bells, the clocks from a hun dred belfries strike the hour. But the moon is already sinking, large and fiery, through the vapors of morning. It is just in the range of the chimneys and house-tops, and seems to follow you with speed as you float down the river between unbroken ranks of ships. Day is dawning in the east, not with a pale streak in the horizon, but with a silver light spread through the sky almost to the zenith. It is the mingling of moonlight and daylight. The water is tinged with a green hue, melting into purple and gold, like the brilliant scales of a fish. The air grows cool. It comes fresh from the eastern sea, toward which we are swiftly gliding ; and, dimly seen in the uncer tain twilight, behind us rises " A mighty mass of brick, and smoke, and shipping, Dirty and dusky, but as wide as eye Can reach ; with here and there a sail just skipping In sight, then lost amid the forestry Of masts ; a wilderness of steeples peeping, On tiptoe, through their sea-coal canopy ; A huge dun cupola, like a fool's-cap crown On a fool's head ; and there is London town. " ANGLO-SAXON LITERATURE 1838 WE read in history, that the beauty of an ancient manuscript tempted King Al fred, when a boy at his mother's knee, to learn the letters of the Saxon tongue. A volume which that monarch minstrel wrote in after years now lies before me, so beautifully print ed, that it might tempt any one to learn not only the letters of the Saxon language, but the language also. The monarch himself is look ing from the ornamented initial letter of the first chapter. He is crowned and care-worn ; having a beard, and long flowing locks, and a face of majesty. He seems to have just uttered those remarkable words, with which his Preface closes : " And now he prays, and for God's name implores, every one of those ivhom it lists to read this book, that he would pray for him, and not blame him, if he more rightly understand it than he could ; for every man must, according to the measure of his 130 Drift-Wood understanding, and according to his leisure, speak that which he speaketh, and do that which he doeth." I would fain hope, that the beauty of this and other Anglo-Saxon books may lead many to the study of that venerable language. Through such gateways will they pass, it is true, into no gay palace of song ; but among the dark chambers and mouldering walls of an old national literature, weather-stained and in ruins. They will find, however, venerable names recorded on those walls ; and inscrip tions, worth the trouble of deciphering. To point out the most curious and important of these is my present purpose ; and according to the measure of my understanding, and ac cording to my leisure, I speak that which I speak. The Anglo-Saxon language was the lan guage of our Saxon forefathers in England, though they never gave it that name. They called it English. Thus King Alfred speaks of translating " from book-Latin into English" ; Abbot vElfric was requested by ^Ethelward " to translate the book of Genesis from Latin into English "; and Bishop Leofric, speaking of the manuscript he gave to the Exeter Ca- Anglo-Saxon Literature 131 thedral, calls it " a great English book." In other words, it is the old Saxon, a Gothic tongue, as spoken and developed in England. That it was spoken and written uniformly throughout the land is not to be imagined, when we know that Jutes and Angles were in the country as well as Saxons. But that it was essentially the same language every where is not to be doubted, when we compare pure West-Saxon texts with Northumbrian glosses and books of Durham. Hickes speaks .of a Dano-Saxon period in the history of the language. The Saxon kings reigned six hun dred years ; the Danish dynasty, twenty only. And neither the Danish boors, who were earthlings in the country, nor the Danish sol diers, who were dandies at the court of King Canute, could, in the brief space of twenty years, have so overlaid or interlarded the pure Anglo-Saxon with their provincialisms, as to give it a new character, and thus form a new period in its history, as was afterwards done by the Normans. The Dano-Saxon is a dialect of the lan guage, not a period which was passed through in its history. Down to the time of the Nor man Conquest, it existed in the form of two 132 Drift -Wood principal dialects ; namely, the Anglo-Saxon in the South ; and the Dano-Saxon, or Nor thumbrian, in the North. After the Norman Conquest, the language assumed a new form, which has been called, properly enough, Nor man-Saxon and Semi-Saxon. This form of the language, ever flowing and filtering through the roots of national feeling, custom, and prejudice, prevailed about two hundred years ; that is, from the middle of the eleventh to the middle of the thirteenth century, when it became English. It is im possible to fix the landmarks of a language with any great precision ; but only floating beacons, here and there. It is oftentimes curious to consider the far-off beginnings of great events, and to study the aspect of the cloud no bigger than one's hand. The British peasant looked seaward .from his harvest-field, and saw, with wondering eyes, the piratical schooner of a Saxon Viking mak ing for the mouth of the Thames. A few years only a few years afterward, while the same peasant, driven from his homestead north or west, still lives to tell the story to his grandchildren, another race lords it over the land, speaking a different language and living Anglo-Saxon Literature 133 under different laws. This important event in his history is more important in the world's history. Thus began the reign of the Saxons in England ; and the downfall of one nation, and the rise of another, seem to us at this dis tance only the catastrophe of a stage-play. The Saxons came into England about the middle of the fifth century. They were pa gans ; they were a wild and warlike people ; brave, rejoicing in sea-storms, and beautiful in person, with blue eyes, and long, flowing hair. Their warriors wore their shields suspended from their necks by chains. Their horsemen were armed with iron sledge-hammers. Their priests rode upon mares, and carried into the battle-field an image of the god Irminsula ; in figure like an armed man ; his helmet crested with a cock ; in his right hand a banner, emblazoned with a red rose ; a bear carved upon his breast ; and, hanging from his shoulders, a shield, on which was a lion in a field of flowers. Not two centuries elapsed before this whole people was converted to Christianity. ^Elfric, in his homily on the birthday of St. Gregory, informs us, that this conversion was accom plished by the holy wishes of that good man, *34 Drift-Wood and the holy works of St. Augustine and other monks. St. Gregory, beholding one day certain slaves set for sale in the market-place of Rome, who were " men of fair countenance and nobly- haired," and learning that they were heathens, and called Angles, heaved a long sigh, and said : " Well-away ! that men of so fair a hue should be subjected to the swarthy Devil ! Rightly are they called Angles, for they have angels' beauty ; and therefore it is fit that they in heaven should be companions of an gels." As soon, therefore, as he undertook the popehood, the monks were sent to their beloved work. In the Witena Gemot, or As sembly of the Wise, convened by King Edwin of Northumbria to consider the propriety of receiving the Christian faith, a Saxon Ealdor- man arose, and spoke these noble words : "Thus seemeth to me, O king, this present life of man upon earth, compared with the time which is unknown to us ; even as if you were sitting at a feast, amid your Ealdorman and Thegns in winter-time. And the fire is lighted, and the hall warmed, and it rains and snows and storms without. Then cometh a sparrow, and flieth about the hall. It cometh in at one door, and goeth out at another Anglo-Saxon Literature 135 While it is within, it is not touched by the winter's storm ; but that is only for a moment, only for the least space. Out of the winter it cometh, to return again into the winter eftsoon. So also this life of man endureth for a little space. What goeth before it and what fol- loweth after, we know not. Wherefore, if this new lore bring aught more certain and more advantageous, then is it worthy that we should follow it." Thus the Anglo-Saxons became Christians. For the good of their souls they built monas teries and went on pilgrimages to Rome. The whole country, to use Malmesbury's phrase, was " glorious and refulgent with relics." The priests sang psalms night and day ; and so great was the piety of St. Cuthbert, that, ac cording to Bede, he forgot to take off his shoes for months together, sometimes the whole year round ; from which Mr. Turner infers, that he had no stockings.* They also copied the Evangelists, and illustrated them with illu minations ; in one of which St. John is rep resented in a pea-green dress with red stripes. They also drank ale out of buffalo horns and wooden - knobbed goblets. A Mercian king * History of the Anglo-Saxons, VoL II. p. 61. 136 Drift -Wood gave to the Monastery of Croyland his great drinking-horn, that the elder monks might drink therefrom at festivals, and " in their benedictions remember sometimes the soul of the donor, Witlaf." They drank his health, with that of Christ, the Virgin Mary, the apos tles, and other saints. Malmesbury says, that excessive drinking was the common vice of all ranks of people. King Hardicanute died in a revel, and King Edmund in a drunken brawl at Pucklechurch, being, with all his court, much overtaken by liquor, at the festival of St. Augustine. Thus did mankind go reeling through the Dark Ages ; quarrelling, drink ing, hunting, hawking, singing psalms, wear ing breeches,* grinding in mills, eating hot bread, rocked in cradles, buried in coffins, weak, suffering, sublime. Well might King Alfred exclaim, " Maker of all creatures ! help now thy miserable mankind." A national literature is a subject which should always be approached with reverence. It is difficult to comprehend fully the mind of a nation ; even when that nation still lives, * In an old Anglo-Saxon dialogue, a shoemaker says that he makes " slippers, shoes, and leather breeches " (swyftlerat sceos, and lether-hose. ) Anglo-Saxon Literature 137 and we can visit it, and its present history, and the lives of men we know, help us to a comment on the written text. But here the dead alone speak. Voices, half understood ; fragments of song, ending abruptly, as if the poet had sung no further, but died with these last words upon his lips ; homilies, preached to congregations that have been asleep for many centuries ; lives of saints/who went to their re r ward long before the world began to scoff at sainthood ; and wonderful legends, once be lieved by men, and now, in this age of wise children, hardly credible enough for a nurse's tale ; nothing entire, nothing wholly under stood, and no further comment or illustration than may be drawn from an isolated fact found in an old chronicle, or perchance a rude illu mination in an old manuscript ! Such is the literature we have now to consider. Such fragments, and mutilated remains, has the hu man mind left of itself, coming down through the times of old, step by step, and every step a century. Old men and venerable accom pany us through the Past ; and put into our hands, at parting, such written records of! themselves as they have. We should re ceive these things with reverence. We should, respect old age. 138 Drift-Wood " This leaf, is it not blown about by the wind ? Woe to it for its fate ! Alas ! it is old." What an Anglo-Saxon glee-man was, we know from such commentaries as are men tioned above. King Edgar forbade the monks to be ale-poets ; and one of his accusations against the clergy of his day was, that they entertained glee-men in their monasteries, where they had dicing, dancing, and singing, till midnight. The illumination of an old manuscript shows how a glee-man looked. It is a frontispiece to the Psalms of David. The great Psalmist sits upon his throne, with a harp in his hand, and his masters of sacred song around him. Below stands the glee- man, throwing three balls and three knives alternately into the air, and catching them as they fall, like a modern juggler. But all the Anglo-Saxon poets were not glee-men. All the harpers were not dancers. The Sceop, the creator, the poet, rose, at times, to higher themes. He sang the deeds of heroes, victo rious odes, death-songs, epic poems ; or, sitting in cloisters, and afar from these things, con verted holy writ into Saxon chimes. The first thing which strikes the reader oi Anglo-Saxon poetry is the structure of the Anglo-Saxon Literature 139 verse ; the short exclamatory lines, whose rhythm depends on alliteration in the emphatic syllables, and to which the general omission of the particles gives great energy and vi vacity. Though alliteration predominates in all Anglo-Saxon poetry, rhyme is not wholly wanting. It had line-rhymes and final rhymes ; which, being added to the alliteration, and brought so near together in the short, em phatic lines, produce a singular effect upon the ear. They ring like blows of hammers on an anvil. For example : " Flah mah fliteth, Flan man hwiteth, Burg sorg biteth, Bald aid thwiteth, Wraec-faec writheth, Wrath athsmiteth."* Other peculiarities of Anglo-Saxon poetry, which cannot escape the reader's attention, are its frequent inversions, its bold transi tions, and abundant metaphors. These are * " Strong dart flitteth, Spear-man whetteth, Care the city biteth, Age the bold quelleth, Vengeance prevaileth, Wrath a town smiteth." 140 Drift- Wood the things which render Anglo-Saxon poetry so much more difficult than Anglo-Saxon prose. But upon these points I need not en large. It is enough to allude to them. One of the oldest and most important re mains of Anglo-Saxon literature is the epic poem of Beowulf. Its age is unknown ; but it comes from a very distant and hoar antiq uity ; somewhere between the seventh and tenth centuries. It is like a piece of ancient armor ; rusty and battered, and yet strong. From within comes a voice sepulchral, as if the ancient armor spoke, telling a sim ple, straightforward narrative ; with here and there the boastful speech of a rough old Dane, reminding one of those made by the heroes of Homer. The style, likewise, is sim ple, perhaps- one should say austere. The bold metaphors, which characterize nearly all the Anglo-Saxon poems, are for the most part wanting in this. The author seems mainly bent upon telling us, how his Sea-Goth slew the Grendel and the Fire-drake. He is too much in earnest to multiply epithets and gor geous figures. At times he is tedious, at times obscure ; and he who undertakes to read the original will find it no easy task. Anglo-Saxon Literature 141 The poem begins with a description of King Hrothgar the Scylding, in his great hall of Heort, which re-echoed with the sound of harp and song. But not far off, in the fens and marshes of Jutland, dwelt a grim and monstrous giant, called Grendel, a descendant of Cain. This troublesome individual was in the habit of occasionally visiting the Scylding's palace by night, to see, as the author rather quaintly says, " how the doughty Danes found themselves after their beer-carouse." On his first visit he destroyed some thirty inmates, all asleep, with beer in their brains ; and ever afterwards kept the whole land in fear of death. At length the fame of these evil deeds reached the ears of Beowulf, the Thane of Higelac, a famous Viking in those days, who had slain sea-monsters, and wore a wild-boar for his crest. Straightway he sailed with fifteen fol lowers for the court of Heort ; unarmed, in the great mead-hall, and at midnight, fought the Grendel, tore off one of his arms, and hung it up on the palace wall as a curiosity ; the fiend's fingers being armed with long nails, which the author calls the hand-spurs of the heathen hero. Retreating to his cave, the grim ghost departed this life ; whereat 1 42 Drift- Wood there was great carousing at Heort. But at night came the Grendel's mother, and car ried away one of the beer-drunken heroes of the ale-wassail. Beowulf, with a great escort, pursued her to the fenlands of the Grendel ; plunged, all armed, into a dark-rolling and dreary river, that flowed from the monster's cavern ; slew worms and dragons manifold ; was dragged to the bottom by the old-wife ; and seizing a magic sword, which lay among the treasures of that realm of wonders, with one fell blow let her heathen soul out of its bone-house. Having thus freed the land from the giants, Beowulf, laden with gifts and treas ures, departed homeward, as if nothing special had happened, and, after the death of King Higelac, ascended the throne of the Scylfings. Here the poem should end, and we doubt not, did originally end. But, as it has come down to us, eleven more cantos follow, containing a new series of adventures. Beowulf has grown old. He has reigned fifty years ; and now, in his gray old age, is troubled by the devasta tions of a monstrous Fire-drake, so that his metropolis is beleaguered, and he can no longer fly his hawks and merles in the open country. He resolves, at length, to fight with this Fire- Anglo-Saxon Literature 143 drake ; and, with the help of his attendant, Wiglaf, overcomes him. The land is made rich by the treasures found in the dragon's cave ; but Beowulf dies of his wounds. Thus departs Beowulf, the Sea-Goth ; of the world-kings the mildest to men, the strongest of hand, the most clement to his people, the most desirous of glory. And thus closes the oldest epic in any modern language ; written in forty-three cantos of some six thousand lines. The outline here given is filled up with abundant episodes and warlike details. We have ale-revels, and giving of bracelets, and presents of mares, and songs of bards. The battles with the Grendel and the Fire-drake are minutely described ; as likewise are the dwellings and rich treasure-houses of these monsters. The fire-stream flows with lurid light ; the dragon breathes out flame and pesti lential breath ; the gigantic sword, forged by the Jutes of old, dissolves and thaws like an icicle in the hero's grasp ; and the swart raven tells the eagle how he fared with the fell wolf at the death-feast. Such is, in brief, the ma chinery of the poem. It possesses great epic merit, and in parts is strikingly graphic in its descriptions. As we read, we can almost smell 1 44 Drift- Wood the brine, and hear the sea-breeze blow, and see the mainland stretch out its jutting promon tories, those sea-noses, as the poet calls them, into the blue waters of the solemn ocean. The next work to which I would call the attention of my readers is very remarkable, both in a philological and in a poetical point of view ; being written in a more ambitious style than Beowulf. It is Caedmon's Para phrase of Portions of Holy Writ. Casdmon was a monk in the Minster of Whitby. He lived and died in the seventh century. The only account we have of his life is that given by the Venerable Bede in his Ecclesiastical History. By some he is called the Father of Anglo- Saxon Poetry, because his name stands first in the history of Saxon song-craft ; by others, the Milton of our Forefathers ; because he sang of Lucifer and the Loss of Paradise. The poem is divided into two books. The first is nearly complete, and contains a para phrase of parts of the Old Testament and the Apocrypha. The second is so mutilated as to be only a series of unconnected fragments. It contains scenes from the New Testament, and is chiefly occupied with Christ's descent Anglo-Saxon Literature 145 into the lower regions ; a favorite theme in old times, and well known in the history of miracle-plays, as the Harrowing of Hell. The author is a pious, prayerful monk ; " an awful, reverend, and religious man." He has all the simplicity of a child. He calls his Creator the Blithe-heart King : the patriarchs, Earls ; and their children, Noblemen. Abraham is a wise-heedy man, a guardian of bracelets, a mighty earl ; and his wife Sarah, a woman of elfin beauty. The sons of Reuben are called Sea-Pirates. A laugher is a laughter-smith ; the Ethiopians, a people brown with the hot coals of heaven. Striking poetic epithets and passages are not wanting in his works. They are sprin kled here and there throughout the narrative. The sky is called the roof of nations, the roof adorned with stars. After the overthrow of Pharaoh and his folk, he says, the blue air was with corruption tainted, and the bursting ocean whooped a bloody storm. Nebuchad nezzar is described as a naked, unwilling wan derer, a wondrous wretch and weedless. Hor rid ghosts, swart and sinful, " Wide through windy halls Wail woful." 146 Drift -Wood And, in the sack of Sodom, we are told how many a fearful, pale-faced damsel must trem bling go into a stranger's embrace ; and how fell the defenders of brides and bracelets, sick with wounds. Indeed, whenever the author has a battle to describe, and hosts of arm- bearing and warfaring men draw from their sheaths the ring-hilted sword of edges doughty, he enters into the matter with so much spirit, that one almost imagines he sees, looking from under that monkish cowl, the visage of no parish priest, but of a grim war-wolf, as the great fighters were called, in the days when Csedmon wrote. Such are the two great narrative poems of the Anglo-Saxon tongue. Of a third, a short fragment remains. It is a mutilated thing, a mere torso. Judith of the Apocrypha is the heroine. The part preserved describes the death of Holofernes in a fine, brilliant style, delighting the hearts of all Anglo-Saxon schol ars. But a more important fragment is that on the Death of Byrhtnoth at the battle of Maldon. It savors of rust and of antiquity, like " Old Hildebrand " in German. What a fine passage is this, spoken by an aged vassal over the dead body of the hero, in the thickest of the fight ! Anglo-Saxon Literature 147 " Byrhtwold spoke ; he was an aged vassal ; he raised his shield ; he brandished his ashen spear ; he full boldly exhorted the warriors. ' Our spirit shall be the hardier, our heart shall be the keener, our soul shall be the greater, the more our forces diminish. Here lieth our chief all mangled ; the brave one in the dust ; ever may he lament his shame that thinketh to fly from this play of weap ons ! Old am I in life, yet will I not stir hence ; but I think to lie by the side of my lord, by that much-loved man ! ' ' Shorter than either of these fragments is a third on the Fight of Finsborough. Its chief value seems to be, that it relates to the same action which formed the theme of one of Hrothgar's bards in Beowulf. In addition to these narrative poems and fragments, there are two others, founded on lives of saints. They are the Life and Passion of St. Juliana, and the Visions of the Hermit Guthlac. There is another narrative poem, which I must mention here on account of its subject, though of- a much later date than the fore going. It is the Chronicle of King Lear and his daughters, in Norman-Saxon ; not rhymed throughout, but with rhymes too often recur ring to be accidental. As a poem, it has no 148 Drift-Wood merit, but shows that the story of Lear is very old : for, in speaking of the old king's death and burial, it refers to a previous account, " as the book telleth." Cordelia is married to Aganippus, king of France ; and, after his death, reigns over England, though Maglau- dus, king - of Scotland, declares, that it is a " muckle shame, that a queen should be king in the land." * Besides these long, elaborate poems, the Anglo-Saxons had their odes and ballads. Thus, when King Canute was sailing by the Abbey of Ely, he heard the voices of the monks chanting their vesper hymn. Where upon he sang, in the best Anglo-Saxon he was master of, the following rhyme : " Merie sungen the muneches binnen Ely, Tha Cnut ching reuther by ; Roweth, cnihtes, noer the land, And here we thes muneches sang. " f * For hit was swithe mochel same, and eke hit was mochel grame, that a cwene solde be king in thisse land. f Merry sang the monks in Ely, As King Canute was steering by ; Row, ye knights, near the land, And hear we these monks' song. Anglo-Saxon Literature r 49 The best, and, properly speaking, perhaps the only, Anglo-Saxon odes, are those pre served in the Saxon Chronicle, in recording the events they celebrate. They are five in number ; ^Ethelstan's Victory at Brunan- burh ; the Victories of Edmund yEtheling ; the Coronation of King Edgar ; the Death of King Edgar ; and the Death of King Edward. The Battle of Brunanburh is already pretty well known by the numerous English versions, and attempts thereat, which have been given of it. This ode is one of the most character istic specimens of Anglo-Saxon poetry. What a striking picture is that of the lad with flaxen hair, mangled with wounds ; and of the seven earls of Anlaf, and the five young kings, lying on the battle-field, lulled asleep by the sword ! Indeed, the whole ode is striking, bold, graphic. The furious onslaught ; the cleaving of the wall of shields ; the hewing down of banners ; the din of the fight : the hard hand-play ; the re treat of the Northmen, in nailed ships, over the stormy sea ; and the deserted dead, on the battle-ground, left to the swart raven, the war- hawk, and the wolf ; all these images appeal strongly to the imagination. The bard has nobly described this victory of the illustrious 150 Drift -Wood war-smiths, the most signal victory since the coming of the Saxons into England ; so say the books of the old wise men. And here I would make due and honorable mention of the Poetic Calendar, and of King Alfred's Version of the Metres of Boethius. The Poetic Calendar is a chronicle of great events in the lives of saints, martyrs, and apos tles, referred to the days on which they took place. At the end is a strange poem, consist ing of a series of aphorisms, not unlike those that adorn a modern almanac. In addition to these narratives and odes and didactic poems, there are numerous mi nor poems on various subjects, some of which have been published, though for the most part they still lie buried in manuscripts, hymns, allegories, doxologies, proverbs, enig mas, paraphrases of the Lord's Prayer, poems on Death and the Day of Judgment, and the like. A large quantity of them is contained in the celebrated Exeter Manuscript, a folio given by Bishop Leofric to the Cathedral oi Exeter in the eleventh century, and called by the donor, " a great English book about every thing, composed in verse." Among them is a very singular and striking poem, entitled, Anglo-Saxon Literature 151 " The Soul's Complaint against the Body," in which the departed spirit is described as re turning, ghastly and shrieking, to upbraid the body it had left. " Much it behoveth Each one of mortals, That he his soul's journey In himself ponder, How deep it may be. When Death cometh, The bonds he breaketh By which were united The soul and the body. " Long it is thenceforth Ere the soul taketh From God himself Its woe or its weal ; As in the world erst, Even in its earth-vessel, It wrought before. " The soul shall come Wailing with loud voice, After a sennight, The soul, to find The body That it erst dwelt in ; Three hundred winters, Unless ere that worketh The Eternal Lord, The Almighty God, The end of the world. 152 Drift -Wood "Crieth then, so care-worn, With cold utterance, And speaketh grimly, The ghost to the dust : ' Dry dust ! thou dreary one ! How little didst thou labor for me I In the foulness of earth Thou all wearest away Like to the loam ! Little didst thou think How thy soul's journey Would be thereafter, When from the body It should be led forth.'" But perhaps the most curious poem in the Exeter Manuscript is the Rhyming Poem, to which I have before alluded.* Still more spectral is the following Nor man-Saxon poem, from a manuscript volume of Homilies in the Bodleian Library. The subject is the grave. It is Death that speaks. " For thee was a house built Ere thou wast born ; For thee was a mould meant Ere thou of mother earnest But it is -not made ready, Nor its depth measured, Nor is it seen * Since this paper was written, the Exeter Manuscript has been published, with a translation by Mr. Thorpe. Anglo-Saxon Literature How long it shall be. Now I bring thee Where thou shalt be. Now I shall measure thee, And the mould afterwards. " Thy house is not Highly timbered ; It is unhigh and low, When thou art therein, The heel-ways are low, The side-ways unhigh ; The roof is built Thy breast full nigh. So thou shalt in mould Dwell full cold, Dimly and dark. " Doorless is that house, And dark it is within ; There thou art fast detained, And Death hath the key. Loathsome is that earth -house, And grim within to dwell ; There thou shalt dwell, And worms shall divide thee. " Thus thou art laid And leavest thy friends ; Thou hast no friend Who will come to thee, Who will ever see How that house pleaseth thee, Who will ever open 154 Drift-Wood The door for thee, And descend after thee ; For soon thou art loathsome And hateful to see. " We now come to Anglo-Saxon Prose. At the very boundary stand two great works, like landmarks. These are the Saxon Laws, pro mulgated by the various kings that ruled the land ; and the Saxon Chronicle, in which all great historic events, from the middle of the fifth to the middle of the twelfth century, are recorded by contemporary writers, mainly, it would seem, the monks of Winchester, Peter borough, and Canterbury.* Setting these aside, doubtless the most important remains of Anglo-Saxon prose are the writings of King Alfred the Great. What a sublime old character was King Alfred ! Alfred, the Truth-teller ! Thus the ancient historian surnamed him, as others * The style of this Chronicle rises at times far above that of most monkish historians. For instance, in recording the death of William the Conqueror, the writer says : " Sharp Death, that passes by neither rich men nor poor, seized him also. Alas ! how false and how uncertain is this world's weal ! He that was before a rich king, and lord of many lands, had not then of all his land more than a space of seven feet ! and he that was whilom enshrouded in gold and germ lay there covered with mould. " A. D. 1087. Anglo-Saxon Literature *55 were surnamed the Unready, Ironside, Hare- foot The principal events of his life are known to all men ; the nine battles fought in the first year of his reign ; his flight to the marshes and forests of Somersetshire ; his poverty and suffering, wherein was fulfilled the prophecy of St. Neot, that he should " be bruised like the ears of wheat"; his life with the swineherd, whose wife bade him turn the cakes, that they might not be burnt, for she saw daily that he was a great eater ; his suc cessful rally ; his victories, and his future glo rious reign ; these things are known to all men. And not only these, which are events in his life, but also many more, which are traits in his character, and controlled events ; as, for example, that he was a wise and virtuous man, a religious man, a learned man for that age. Perhaps they know, even, how he measured time with his six horn lanterns ; also, that he was an author and wrote many books. But of these books how few persons have read even a single line ! And yet it is well worth our while, if we wish to see all the calm dignity of that great mans character, and how in him the scholar and the man outshone the king. For example, do we not know him better, and 156 Drift -Wood honor him more, when we hear from his own lips, as it were, such sentiments as these ? " God has made all men equally noble in their original nature. True nobility is in the mind, not in the flesh. I wished to live honorably whilst I lived, and, after my life, to leave to the men who were after me my memory in good works ! " The chief writings of this royal author are his translations of Gregory's Pastoralis, Boethius's Consolations of Philosophy, Bede's Ecclesiastical History, and the History of Orosius, known in manuscripts by the myste rious title of Hormesta. Of these works the most remarkable is the Boethius ; so much of his own mind has Alfred infused into it. Properly speaking, it is not so much a trans lation as a gloss or paraphrase ; for the Saxon king, upon his throne, had a soul which was near akin to that of the last of the Roman philosophers in his prison. He had suffered, and could sympathize with suffering human ity. He adorned and carried out still further the reflections of Boethius. He begins his task, however, with an apology, saying, " Al fred, king, was translator of this book, and turned it from book-Latin into English, as he Anglo-Saxon Literature r 57 most plainly and clearly could, amid the vari ous and manifold worldly occupations which often busied him in mind and body " ; and ends with a prayer, beseeching God, " by the sign of the holy cross, and by the virginity of the blessed Mary, and by the obedience of the blessed Michael, and by the love of all the saints and their merits," that his mind might be made steadfast to the Divine will and his own soul's need. Other remains of Anglo-Saxon prose exist in the tale of Apollonius of Tyre ; the Bible- translations and Colloquies of Abbott ^Ifric ; Glosses of the Gospels, at the close of one of which the conscientious scribe has written, "Aldred, an unworthy and miserable priest, with the help of God and St. Cuthbert, over- glossed it in English " ; and, finally, various miscellaneous treatises, among which the most curious is a Dialogue between Saturn and Solomon. I cannot refrain from giving a few extracts from this very original and curious document, which bears upon it some of the darkest thumb-marks of the Middle Ages. " Tell me, what man first spake with a dog? " I tell thee, Saint Peter. 158 Drift- Wood i "Tell me, what man first ploughed the earth with a plough ? " I tell thee, it was Ham, the son of Noah. " Tell me, wherefore stones are barren ? " I tell thee, because Abel's blood fell- upon a stone, when Cain his brother slew him with the jawbone of an ass. " Tell me, what made the sea salt ? \" I tell thee, the ten commandments that Moses collected in the old law, the commandments of God. He threw the ten commandments into the sea, and he shed tears into the sea, and the sea be came salt. " Tell me, what man first built a monastery ? " I tell thee, Elias, and Elisha the prophet, and after baptism, Paul and Anthony, the first anchor ites. " Tell me, what were the streams that watered Paradise ? "I tell thee, they were four. The first was called Pison ; the second, Geon ; the third, Ti gris ; the fourth, Euphrates ; that is, milk, and honey, and ale, and wine. " Tell me, why is the sun red at evening ? " I tell thee, because he looks into Hell. " Tell me, why shineth he so red in the morn- ing? Anglo-Saxon Literature 159 " I tell thee, because he doubteth whether he shall or shall not shine upon this earth, as he is commanded. " Tell me, what four waters feed this earth ? " I tell thee, they are snow, and rain, and hail, and dew. " Tell me, who first made letters ? " I tell thee, Mercury the Giant." Hardly less curious, and infinitely more val uable, is a " Colloquy " of ylfric, composed for the purpose of teaching boys to speak Latin. The Saxon is an interlinear transla tion of the Latin. In this Colloquy various laborers and handicraftsmen are introduced, ploughmen, herdsmen, huntsmen, shoemak ers, and others ; and each has his say, even to the blacksmith, who dwells in his smithy amid iron fire-sparks and the sound of beat ing sledge-hammers and blowing bellows. I translate the close of this Colloquy, to show our readers what a poor school-boy had to suffer in the Middle Ages. They will hardly wonder, that Erigena Scot should have been put to death with penknives by his scholars. " Magister. Well, boy, what hast thou been do ing to-day ? " Discipulus. A great many things have I been 160 Drift-Wood doing. Last night, when I heard the knell, I got out of my bed and went into the church, and sang the matin-song with the friars ; after that we sang the hymn of All Saints, and the morning songs of praise ; after these Prime, and the seven Psalms, with the litanies and the first Mass ; then the nine- o'clock service, and the mass for the day, and after this we sang the service of mid-day, and ate, and drank, and slept, and got up again, and sang Nones, and now are here before thee, ready to hear what thou hast to say to us. " Magister. When will you sing Vespers or the Compline ? " Disripulus, When it is time. " Magister. Hast thou had a whipping to-day ? " Discipulus. I have not, because I have be haved very warily. " Magister. And thy playmates ? " Discipulus. Why dost thou ask me about them? I dare not tell thee our secrets. Each one of them knows whether he has been whipped or not. " Magister. What dost thou eat every day ? " Discipulus. I still eat meat, because I am a child, living under the rod. " Magister. What else dost thou eat ? " Discipulus. Greens and eggs, fish and cheese, butter and beans, and all clean things, with much thankfulness. Anglo-Saxon Literature 161 " Magister. Exceedingly voracious art thou ; for thou devourest everything that is set before thee. " Discipulus. Not so very voracious either, for I don't eat all kinds of food at one meal. " Magister. How then ? "Discipulus. Sometimes I eat one kind, and sometimes another, with soberness, as becomes a monk, and not with voracity ; for I am not a glut ton. " Magister. And what dost thou drink ? " Discipulus. Beer, when I can get it, and wa ter when I cannot get beer. " Magister. Dost thou not drink wine ? " Discipulus. I am not rich enough to buy wine ; and wine is not a drink for boys and igno rant people, but for old men and wise. " Magister. Where dost thou sleep ? " Discipulus. In the dormitory, with the friars. " Magister. Who wakes thee for matins ? " Discipulus. Sometimes I hear the knell and get up ; sometimes my master wakes me sternly with a rod. "Magister. O ye good children, and winsome learners ! Your teacher admonishes you to fol low godly lore, and to behave yourselves decently everywhere. Go obediently, when you hear the chapel bell, enter into the chapel, and bow sup- pliantly at the holy altars, and stand submissive, and sing with one accord, and pray for your sins, 1 62 Drift -Wood and then depart to the cloister or the school-room without levity." I cannot close this sketch of Anglo-Saxon Literature without expressing the hope, that what I have written may " stir up riper wits than mine to the perfection of this rough- hewn work." The history of this literature still remains to be written. How strange it is that so interesting a subject should wait so long for its historian ! PARIS IN THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY 1838 THE age of Louis the Fourteenth is one of the most brilliant in history ; illustri ous by its reign of seventy-two years and its hundred authors known to fame. The govern ment of this monarch has been called " a satire upon despotism." His vanity was boundless : his magnificence equally so. The palaces of Marly and Versailles are monuments of his royal pride : equestrian statues, and his figure on one of the gates of Paris, represented as a naked Hercules, with a club in his hand and a flowing wig on his head, are monuments of his vanity and self-esteem. His court was the home of etiquette and the model of all courts. " It seemed," says Voltaire, " that Nature at that time took de light in producing in France the greatest men in all the arts ; and of assembling at court the most beautiful men and women that had 1 64 Drift - Wood ever existed. But the king bore the palm away from all his courtiers by the grace of his figure and the majestic beauty of his coun tenance ; the noble and winning sound of his voice gained over the hearts that his presence intimidated. His carriage was such as became him and his rank only, and would have been ridiculous in any other. The embarrassment he inspired in those who spoke with him flattered in secret the self-complacency with which he recognized his own superiority. The old officer, who became agitated and stammer ed in asking a favor from him, and not being able to finish his discourse, exclaimed, ' Sire, I do not tremble so before your enemies ! ' had no difficulty in obtaining the favor he asked." All about him was pomp and theatrical show. He invented a kind of livery, which it was held the greatest honor to wear ; a blue waistcoat embroidered with gold and silver ; a mark of royal favor. To all around him he was courteous ; towards women chivalrous. He never passed even a chambermaid without touching his hat ; and always stood uncovered in the presence of a lady. When the disap pointed Duke of Lauzun insulted him by breaking his sword in his presence, he raised Paris in the Seventeenth Century 1 6$ the window, and threw his cane into the court yard, saying, " I never should have forgiven myself if I had struck a gentleman." He seems, indeed, to have been a strange mixture of magnanimity and littleness ; his gallantries veiled always in a show of decency ; severe ; capricious ; fond of pleasure ; hardly less fond of labor. One day we find him dash ing from Vincennes to Paris in his hunting- dress, and standing in his great boots, with a whip in his hand, dismissing his Parliament as he would a pack of hounds. The next he is dancing in the ballet of his private theatre, in the character of a gypsy, and whistling or singing scraps of opera-songs ; and then pa rading at a military review, or galloping at full speed through the park of Fontainebleau, hunting the deer, in a calash drawn by four ponies. Towards the close of his life he be came a devotee. " It is a very remarkable thing," says Voltaire, " that the public, who forgave him all his mistresses, could not for give him his father confessor." He outlived the respect of his subjects. When he lay on his death-bed, those godlike eyes that had overawed the world now grown dim and lus treless, all his courtiers left him to die alone, 166 Drift-Wood and thronged about his successor, the Duke of Orleans. An empiric gave him an elixir, which suddenly revived him. He ate once more, and it was said he could recover. The crowd about the Duke of Orleans diminished very fast. " If the king eats a second time, I shall be left all alone," said he. But the king ate no more. He died like a philosopher. To Madame de Maintenon he said, " I thought it was more difficult to die ! " and to his domes tics, " Why do you weep ? Did you think I was immortal ? " Of course the character of the monarch stamped itself upon the society about him. The licentious court made a licentious city. Yet everywhere external decency and decorum prevailed. The courtesy of the old school held sway. Society, moreover, was pompous and artificial. There were pedantic scholars about town ; and learned women ; and Prt- cieuses Ridicules, and Euphuism. With all its greatness, it was an effeminate age. The old city of Paris, which lies in the Marais, was once the court end of the town. It is now entirely deserted by wealth and fashion. Travellers even seldom find their way into its broad and silent streets. But Paris in the Seventeenth Century 167 sightly mansions and garden walls, over which tall, shadowy trees wave to and fro, speak of a more splendid age, when proud and courtly ladies dwelt there, and the frequent wheels of gay equipages chafed the now grass-grown pavements. In the centre of this part of Paris, within pistol-shot of the Boulevard St. Antoine, stands the Place Royale. Old palaces of a quaint and uniform style, with a low arcade in front, run quite round the square. In its centre is a public walk, with trees, an iron railing, and an equestrian statue of Louis the Thirteenth. It was here that monarch held his court. But there is no sign of a court now. Under the arcade are shops and fruit-stalls ; and in one corner sits a cobbler, seemingly as old and deaf as the walls around him. Oc casionally you get a glimpse through a grated gate into spacious gardens ; and a large flight of steps leads up into what was once a royal palace, and is now a tavern. In the public walk old gentlemen sit under the trees on benches, and enjoy the evening air. Others walk up and down, buttoned in long frock- coats. They have all a provincial look. In deed, for a time you imagine yourself in a 1 68 Drift -Wood small French town, not in Paris ; so different is everything there from the Paris you live in. You are in a quarter where people retire to live genteelly on small incomes. The gentle men in long frock-coats are no courtiers, but retired tradesmen. Not far off is the Rue des Tournelles ; and the house is still standing in which lived and loved that Aspasia of the seventeenth century, the celebrated Ninon de 1'Enclos. From the Boulevard you look down into the garden, where her illegal and ill-fated son, on discov ering that the object of his passion was his own mother, put an end to his miserable life. Not very remote from this is the house once occupied by Madame de Se"vigne\ You are shown the very cabinet where she com posed those letters which beautified her na tive tongue, and " make us love the very ink that wrote them." In a word, you are here in the centre of the Paris of the seventeenth century ; the gay, the witty, the licentious city, which in Louis the Fourteenth's time was like Athens in the age of Pericles. And now all is changed to solitude and silence. The witty age, with its brightness and licen tious heat, all burnt out, puffed into dark- Paris in the Seventeenth Century 169 ness by the breath of time. Thus passes an age of libertinism and sedition, and bloody, frivolous wars, and fighting bishops, and de vout prostitutes, and " factious beaux esprits improvising epigrams in the midst of sedi tions, and madrigals on the field of battle." Westward from this quarter, near the Seine and the Louvre, stood the ever famous Hotel de Rambouillet, the court of Euphuism and false taste. Here Catherine de Vivonne, Mar chioness of Rambouillet, gave her aesthetical soirees in her bedchamber, and she herself in bed, among the curtains and mirrors of a gay alcove. The master of ceremonies bore the title of the Alcoviste. He did the honors of the house and directed the conversation, and such was the fashion of the day, that, impos sible as it may seem to us, no evil tongue soiled with malignant whisper the fair fame of the Pr^cieuses, as the ladies of the society were called. Into this bedchamber came all the most noted literary personages of the day ; Cor- neille, Malherbe, Bossuet, F16chier, La Roche- foucault, Balzac, Bussy-Rabutin, Madame de Sevigne, Mademoiselle de Scud^ri, and others of less note, though hardly less pretension. 1 70 Drift -Wood They paid their homage to the Marchioness, under the title of Arthenice, Eracinthe, and Corinthe'e, anagrams of the name of Catherine. There, as in the Courts of Love of a still ear lier age, were held grave dissertations, on friv olous themes : and all the metaphysics of love, and the subtilties of exaggerated passion, were discussed with most puerile conceits and a vapid sentimentality. " We saw, not long since," says La Bruyere, " a circle of persons of the two sexes, united by conversation and mental sympathy. They left to the vulgar the art of speaking intelligibly. One obscure expression brought on another still more ob scure, which in turn was capped by something truly enigmatical, attended with vast applause. With all this so-called delicacy, feeling, and refinement of expression, they at length went so far that they were neither understood by others nor could understand themselves. For these conversations one needed neither good sense, nor memory, nor the least capacity ; only esprit, and that not of the best, but a counterfeit kind, made up chiefly of imagina tion." Looking back from the present age, how very absurd all these things seem to us ! Nev- Paris in the Seventeenth Century i/ 1 ertheless, the minds of some excellent men were seriously inpressed with their worth ; and the pulpit-orator, Flechier, in his funeral oration upon the death of Madame de Mon- tausier, exclaimed, in pious enthusiasm : " Re member, my brethren, those cabinets which are still regarded with so much veneration, where the mind was purified, where virtue was revered under the name of the incom parable Arthenice, where were gathered to gether so many personages of quality and merit, forming a select court, numerous with out confusion, modest without constraint, learned without pride, polished without affec tation." TABLE-TALK IF you borrow my books, do not mark them ; for I shall not be able to distinguish your marks from my own, and the pages will be come, like the doors in Bagdad, marked by Morgiana's chalk. Don Quixote thought he could have made beautiful bird-cages and toothpicks if his brain had not been so full of ideas of chivalry. Most people would succeed in small things, if they were not troubled with great ambitions. A torn jacket is soon mended ; but hard words bruise the heart of a child. Authors, in their Prefaces, generally speak in a conciliatory, deprecating tone of the crit ics, whom they hate and fear ; as of old the Greeks spake of the Furies as the Eumenides, the benign Goddesses. Table -Talk J 73 Doubtless criticism was originally benig nant, pointing out the beauties of a work, rather than its defects. The passions of men have made it malignant, as the bad heart of Procrustes turned the bed, the symbol of re pose, into an instrument of torture. Popularity is only, in legal phrase, the " in stantaneous seisin " of fame. The Mormons make the marriage ring, like the ring of Saturn, fluid, not solid, and keep it in its place by numerous satellites. In the mouths of many men soft words are like roses that soldiers put into the muzzles of their muskets on holidays. We often excuse our own want of philan thropy by giving the name of fanaticism to the more ardent zeal of others. Every great poem is in itself limited by necessity, but in its suggestions unlimited and infinite. If we could read the secret history of our enemies, we should find in each man's life 174 Drift-Wood sorrow and suffering enough to disarm all hostility. As turning the logs will make a dull fire burn, so change of studies a dull brain. The Laws of Nature are just, but terrible. There is no weak mercy in them. Cause and consequence are inseparable and inevitable. The elements have no forbearance. The fire burns, the water drowns, the air consumes, the earth buries. And perhaps it would be well for our race if the punishment of crimes against the Laws of Man were as inevitable as the punishment of crimes against the Laws of Nature, were Man as unerring in his judgments as Nature. Round about what is, lies a whole mysteri ous world of what might be, a psychological romance of possibilities and things that do not happen. By going out a few minutes sooner or later, by stopping to speak with a friend at a corner, by meeting this man or that, or by turning down this street instead of the other, we may let slip some great occasion of good, or avoid some impending evil, by which the Table-Talk 175 whole current of our lives would have been changed. There is no possible solution to the dark enigma but the one word, " Provi dence." The Helicon of too many poets is not a hill crowned with sunshine and visited by the Muses and the Graces, but an old, mouldering house, full of gloom and haunted by ghosts. / " Let us build such a church, that those who come after us shall take us for madmen," said the old canon of Seville, when the great cathedral was planned. Perhaps through every mind passes some such thought, when it first entertains the design of a great and seemingly impossible action, the end of which it dimly foresees. This divine madness enters more or less into all our noblest undertakings. I feel a kind of reverence for the first books of young authors. There is so much aspira tion in them, so much audacious hope and trembling fear, so much of the heart's history, that all errors and short-comings are for a while lost sight of in the amiable self-assertion of youth. Drift- Wood Authors have a greater right than any copy right, though it is generally unacknowledged or disregarded. They have a right to the reader's civility. There are favorable hours for reading a book, as for writing it, and to these the author has a claim. Yet many peo ple think, that when they buy a book, they buy with it the right to abuse the author. A thought often makes us hotter than a fire. Black seals upon letters, like the black sails of the Greeks, are signs of bad tidings and ill success. Love makes its record in deeper colors as we grow out of childhood into manhood ; as the Emperors signed their names in green ink when under age, but when of age, in purple. x Some critics are like chimney-sweepers ; they put out the fire below, or frighten the swallows from their nests above ; they scrape a long time in the chimney, cover themselves with soot, and bring nothing away but a bag of cinders, and then sing from the top of the \ house as if they had built it. Table-Talk 177 When we reflect that all the aspects of Nature, all the emotions of the soul, and all the events of life, have been the subjects of poetry for hundreds and thousands of years, we can hardly wonder that there should be so many resemblances and coincidences of ex pression among poets, but rather that they are not more numerous and more striking. The first pressure of sorrow crushes out v from our hearts the best wine ; afterwards the constant weight of it brings forth bitterness, the taste and stain from the lees of the vat. The tragic element in poetry is like Saturn in alchemy, the Malevolent, the Destroyer of Nature ; but without it no true Aurum Potabile, or Elixir of Life, can be made. UC SOUTHERN REG ONAL L BRARY FACIL TY