I-CIRCULATING CY mm TO N C mOUGH KNGLAND, SCOTLAND, .IRELAND, WALKS, DENMARK, NORWAY, SWEDEN, Russia, poland, and spain. HENKY WIS'THEDF SARGENT. ' ^PT^* 1 ^^TT^*^ ^^T^*^ ^^T^*" Ex Libris BEATRIX FARRAND REEF POINT GARDENS LIBRARY The Gift of Beatrix Farrand to the General Library University of California, Berkeley SKELETON TOURS THROUGH ENGLAND, SCOTLAND, IRELAND, WALES, DENMARK, NORWAY, SWEDEN, RUSSIA, ROLAND, AND SRAIN, VARIOUS WAYS OF GETTING FROM PLACE TO PLACE, THE TIME OCCUPIED, AND THE COST OF EACH JOURNEY TO A PARTY OF FOUR. WITH SOME OF THE PRINCIPAL THINGS TO SEE, ESPECIALLY COUNTRY HOUSES. BY IIEXRY WIXTIIROP SARGEXT. NEW YORK: D. APPLETOX AXD COMPANY, 5 19 & 5 5 1 B ROAD W A Y . 1371. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1S70, by D. APPLETON & CO., ;n the Clerk's Cffice of the District Conrt of the United States for the Southern District of New York. LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURE VflWflrruJ Giff 0309 LANDSCAPg ARCH. UBRAR? PREFACE TnE object of the author in publishing these little tours is twofold. One, and the principal, is to answer the universal question of all travellers — " How do yoii get from one place to another, and how long does it take? " and, secondly, " What does it cost? " To Americans, who do not shrink from purchasing in London forced peaches at a guinea apiece, the hitter question is not usually so important as the former. To most of my countrymen expenditure of time is more disturbing than that of money. There are plenty of guide-books in the world, and very excellent ones too, which give you every sort of general information when you arrive at a place, and which also give you a general idea of how to get there; but none, that I am aware of, which specify precisely the exact way and time of passing from ono place to another. This is especially true of out-of-the- way places — "the nooks and corners of England,*' and countries comparatively unknown, Buch a> Nor- 845 4 PREFACE. way, Sweden, Denmark, Russia, and even Spain. Many travellers would visit these countries, could they have placed before tliem the exact ways and means of accomplishing these tours, both time and cost. The burden of finding out how to travel in Norway, for instance — how to get there, where to go, what to see, and what money to take — is so great, that impatient or indolent persons give it up in despair, and prefer to follow the old beaten tracks of Italy or Switzerland, or spend the balance of their time and money in Paris. It is to aid this class that these little guides have been published. The author does not pretend that they are the best routes that could be taken ; in fact, much was omitted in his various journeys which would, no doubt, be very interesting to a large class of travellers, and there is a good deal done in England which, to persons who have no rural taste, had better be omitted ; and it might not be amiss to say here that the author's tour in England was mainly to see all the country places worth seeing, large or small, and in mentioning these he has been led to go into more detail in their descrip- tion than is consistent with the original intention of these guides; and he has been induced to do this solely for the sake of calling the attention of those travellers interested in such matters to these very extraordinary places — such as El vast on Castle, Bid- dulph Grange, Alton Towers, Levens Hall, etc. — PREFA CE. 5 which, being off the common line of travel, and nol usually mentioned in English guide-books, would not otherwise he known; secondly, to see all the cathe- drals ; thirdly, the university and school towns ; and fourthly, the various watering-places and spas. In accomplishing these several objects, it was necessary to go over the length and breadth of England, acros3 country, by post as well as by rail ; and although, as before said, the English route might have been better, yet the author cannot but think that any one following his footsteps would see and know more of England than most Englishmen, and quite as much as any American traveller would care to know. The same is true, in a more limited extent, perhaps, of Spain and the northern countries. The old track through France, Italy, Germany, and Switzerland, is so well beaten that it has been omitted. As to the expense of these journeys, it must, of course, depend very much upon the purse and inclina- tion of the traveller. The prices mentioned in these tours were for a party of four, without reference to expense, having always the best apartments at hotels, with private meals invariably, and the best convey- ances, either rail or carriage — not, however, including extras, wines, or amusements — and during the years 180G-G8. Of course, four persons might travel at much less cost, by taking cheaper conveyance- 6 PREFACE. sionally, second-class carriages on the railways, and their meals at a table d'hote. It must, however, be understood that four persons can travel cheaper than two, or even one, in proportion, for various reasons not necessary to mention here. In conclusion, the author would simply remark that these little tours — the one through England being especially horticultural, calling attention to certain country places seldom visited or even known to Amer- icans — arc particularly intended to assist those who have not time or interest enough to work out their own journey (a matter always sufficiently perplexing), and who are willing to he satisfied with seeing what the writer has seen. The time-tables of the various railways and boats have, of course, changed, and it would be necessary to alter the journey as far as this; but the time, of course, is always the same in making the journey, though the hours may have changed. The season of the year when these journeys were made has been retained in the guides, as the best for the differ- ent tours, though by no means necessary. n. W. S. "Wodenethe. Fislikill-on-IIudson, 1S70. SKELETON TOURS. FIRST TOUR. EXGLAXD, IBELA.ND, SCOTLAND, AND WALES. (For Four Persons.) Aiiy. 13. — Breakfast at Qaeenstown. Walk about the town. Take steamer at 9.30 up the River Lea to Cork, 13 miles, in preference to rail. Lunch at Imperial Hotel, after which drive in jaunting-car to Blarney Castle and to the Groves of Blarney, seeing yews TOO years old, and an Arauc iria 15 feet high. Expens - at Queenstown, custom-house fees, and break- fast, Aug. 19. — Walk or drive about the town, seeing the churches ; drive to the country-place ofMr.Leigh. Beautiful Araucarias, Pinus in- signis, Thujopais, etc.; exquisite flower-garden. Aug. 20. — About town in the morning; after — lunch, in a jaunting-car to Black Rock Oastle, 7 cor.K J IRELAND. [impbbial hotel. and to Mr. Pike's plaoe — very beautiful flowers. £ s. Back by Cemetery, seeing Father Matthew's 2 5 grave — car 10 Aug. 21.— Leave Cork for Youghal, by rail, at 9.40, reaching Yonghal at 10.45. Drive through the town to Sir Walter Raleigh's house, where the first potatoes were planted, and the yew-trees, where Sir Walter smoked his pipe to the horror of his servants, who, thinking him on fire, poured water over him. The house very quaint, with walls and fire- places panelled in black Irish hog-oak. See St. Mary's Church, founded in the eleventh cen- tury. At 2, taking boat, steam up the Black- water, with exquisite views and places ; arrive at Cappoquin at 4; where, taking a jaunting- car, drive through " Belmont, "Sir John Keane's, a grand old place, with some fine cedars of Lebanon, to the monastery at Mallory, 4 miles, containing 100 Trappists, vowed to perpetual silence; thence, 4 miles farther, to Lismore, where dine and sleep at the Devonshire Arms. Fare to Youghal, 12s. ; lunch and car, 12s. ; boat, Gs. ; car, 12s., 2 2 Aug. 23. — Visit Lismore Castle, a splendid restoration by the late Duke of Devonshire, and also to a most exquisite little place belonging to Mr. Baldwin ; at 12, take cars to Fermoy, 12 miles, and back to Cork. Expenses at Lis- more, 1 12 Aug. 24. — Leave Cork in posting-carriage, at 9.30, passing through the finest possible scenery. 6 9 8 lismo:-.:.] IRELAND. [lvxdsdow.v arms. About 1, reach Inchigeelagh to lunch (wonder- £ s. fully .situated, in the wildest and most extraor- 0. Fare to Melrose and back, £2 10s; fees. 3s.; lunch, 4s., . 2 17 Sept. 20. — Leave Edinburgh at 1.20 by train, reaching Stirling at 2.15 ; visit the castle with one of the finest views. Take another train at L32 6 17 GLASGOW.] SCOTLAND. [the geoege. go on to Callender at 6, to dine and Bleep £ s. (The Dreadnought). Bill at Edinburgh, three 182 6 days, 67 L5s. ; fare to Callender, £1 5s., . 9 Sept. 21. — Leave Callender in posting-car- riage at 9, reaching the inn at the Trossachs at 11. Walk over the mountain to the celebrated ] ; ssof Aberfoil, to Bailie Nicol Jarvie Inn, the Clachan of Aberfoil, and hack to the Trossachs to dine and sleep. Bill at Callender, . 2 15 Sept. 22. — Leave the Trossachs at 9.30, in carriage for Loch Katrine, taking steamer at 11 ; sail down the lake, passing Ellen's Isle and the " Silver Strand, 1 ' reaching the upper end of the lake at 12.30; take a carriage, and drive five miles through a narrow pass to In- versnaid, where lunch, and on by boat at 2 ; down Loch Lomond, reaching Ballock at end of lake at 15 minutes to 4; hence by rail to Glasgow at 5.10. (George Hotel.) . Bill at Trossachs, £3 4s. Fare on Loch Katrine, 10s. Lomond, 10s., 4 4 Sept. 23. — Sunday to the Cathedral, after which to the University, very gloomy ; and to the park, . Sept. 24. — About the town, and at 1.30 by rail 9 miles to Hamilton Palace, the Duke of Hamilton's, grandson of Beckford, the author of" Vathek; " the Palace most stately and mag- nificent, the front being a specimen of an en- riched Corinthian order, with a projecting pillared portico, after the style of the Temple • of Jupiter Stator at Rome, 2G4 feet in length, 149 4 eaxavie.] SCOTLAND. [lociiiei. and 60 in height. In the mausoleum a constant £ s. fire day and night is kept up. The avenue here 1-10 4 is particularly fine. Taking a carriage, drive to Barncluith, with clipped terrace gardens in the Dutch style, planted in 1070, on quaint stone battlements, also Cadzow Forest, with splendid oaks, 35 to 30 feet in circumference, and having some GO to 80 of the Scottish wild- oxen yet left. Back to Glasgow, to dine and sleep. Bill at Glasgow, 4 days, £10 lis. ; cab and rail, £1 4s., 12 15 Sept. 25. — Leave Glasgow at 7 o'clock a. m., in steamer, reaching Greenock at 0, where the beauties of the Clyde begin to appear, passing Dumbarton and its castle, Dunoon, Rothesay, and through the Kyle of Bute, a charming strait through the islands, and filled with fish- ing-smacks, for the Loch Fyne herrings, which are very celebrated. Arrive at Ardescraig at 2, where change to a boat on the Crinan Canal; after a beautiful sail of miles, again change to another steamer, where, dining, pass through the Dorishtmore, or Great Gate between the chain of islands Jura, Isla, Scarba, and the Mull, Iona and Stafia at a distance, reach Oban, beautifully situated in a circular bay, at 7 r. m. Here, if wishing to visit Staffa, sleep ; otherwise proceed in steamer, reaching Banavie at 10 p. m. Passage to Inverness, . G 10 Sept. 2G. — Bise early, to see the effecl ofthe sun on Ben Nevis, 4,428 feet high, immediately in front ofthe inn; walk 2 miles to Inverlochy 168 19 INVERNESS.] SCOTLAXD. [caledonian hotel. Castle, scene of the battle between Argyll and £ s Montrose in 1645, Breakfast at 7; leave in 1G8 9 steamer on the canal at 8, until yon reach Loch Lochy, 10 miles, passing the ancient cas- tle of the Camerons, also the burial-place of the Lochiels, then through a second canal to Loch Oich, 3 miles long, passing Achriacarry, belonging to the Lochiel, and Invergarry Cas- tle, as well as the monument erected by Colo- nel McDonald, of Glengarry, to the seven heads of his seven cousins, which he cut off for murdering the two sons of the chief of the clan — McDonald himself being the original of the Fergus Mclvor, of Sir Walter Scott's '• AVaverley ; " thence by another canal to Loch Xess, 24 miles long, scenery fine, though not so grand as yesterday's. To Foyers, where an hour to see the falls, very picturesque, by Urqnart Castle, a splendid ruin in a magnificent position, with an arrangement for pouring molten lead on its assailants, and a charming old Scotch residence, Aldowrie House, where Sir James Mackintosh was born ; reach Inver- ness (the Caledonian Hotel) at 5 p. m. Bill at Banavie, and lunch, 113 See Macbeth's Castle, splendidly situated on an eminence overlooking the town and river. Sept. 27. — Leave Inverness at 10.18, passing Culloden, where the battle was fought ; Caw- dor Castle, once belonging to the Thane of Cawdor of Macbeth, and now to the Earl of . Cawdor, Longmuir, the supposed blasted heath, 170 1 20 A.BERFELDIE.] SCOTLAXD. [bbeadalbane where Macbeth and Banquo met the weird sis- £ >. ters, Birnam wood, etc., to Blair Castle, where 170 1 leave the train. After lunch visit the grounds. The walks and drives of this estate are said to extend 50 miles; the larch-plantations cover 11,000 acres, and number of trees planted, 27,000,000. Glen Tilt, belonging to the duke, alone contains 100,000 acres, and 10,000 head of red deer, 5,000 acres being preserved for grouse, 20,000 for deer, and 30,000 for deer-stalking. There still remain 8 or 10 of the original larch from which all Scotland, England, Ire- land, and America, were planted, one of the largest measuring 1G£ feet in circumference, with a head and branches as spreading as a cedar of Lebanon. Taking carriage at the inn. drive or walk through the celebrated pass of Killiecrankie to Ballycluig, passing Grand Tul- ly, an old Scotch castle, said to be the original of the Tully Veolan of " Waverley," and Glcn- quoich, the home of Fergus Mclvor; and reach- ing Aberfeldie (Breadalbane Arms) to dine and sleep. Bill at Inverness, £2 Is.; to Aberfeldi . £4 10s., G 11 Lunch and carriage at Blair, . . . .15 Sept. 28. — Sunday at Aberfeldie. Sept. 29.— Walk to the falls of Moness and Birks of Aberfeldie, a beautiful ravine and fall celebrated by Burns, and after lunch walk to Castle Menzies, a quaint old Scotch castle with pepper-pot towers on the angles and most extraordinary beeches and planes, forming com- 1 77 17 21 EDDffBUBGH.] SCOTLASD. [hoyal hotel. plete arbors; the collection of new evergreens £ s. very complete here, . . . . . 177 17 Sept. 30. — In morning, drive or walk to Grand Tally Castle, the residence of Sir Wil- liam Stewart, the actual original of Sir Walter Scott's Tolly Yeolan, with secret passages and communications through the walls. After lunch drive 5 miles to Taymouth Castle, the magnificent residence of the Marquis of Bread- albane, a splendid castle 800 feet front, in a park, consisting of a valley between two ranges of mountains, five miles long by three broad, with superb groups and masses of trees, one beech in particular measuring 43 feet in circumference four feet from the ground, said to be the largest in Scotland ; the estate being 120 miles long by 3 to 15 broad. At the end of the park is Loch Taymouth, 16 miles long. Bill and expenses at Abergeldie, . . 5 12 Oct. 1. — Leave Abergeldie in train at 8.15, reaching Perth at 11, and Edinburgh via Ster- ling at 1. From Perth you may branch off to Aberdeen and Balmoral. Oct. 2. — Leave Edinburgh (Eoyal Hotel), at 10 in fly, for Dalkeith Palace, seat of the Duke of Buccleuch ; see palace, filled with splendid pictures of the family. The grounds are very fine, and the stables especially so, containing some 90 horses when the family is at home, 30 of which are valuable hunters, costing 200 to 300 guineas each. In the palace is the state . bed, used in 1033 by Charles L, in 1822 by 183 9 22 EDINBURGH.] SCOTLAND. [BOTAL II George IV., and in 1842 by Queen Victoria. £ From here drive to Koslyn Castle and Ros- 183 lyn Chapel, the first containing subterranean passages in the rocks, where Bruce lived in concealment. A beautiful walk conducts to the chapel, built 595 years ago, and by far the most exquisite in style and carvings in Scot- land, perhaps in England. Back by 5 o'clock. Cab, £1 ; fees, 5s. ; lunch, 5s., . . 1 10 See Botanic Garden, with very ^ne col- lection of plants. Oct. 5. — Leave Edinburgh at 10.15 by North British Railroad, passing near the sea and some splendid views, through and over Newcastle to Durham by 2.20; here stop. After lunch at the Three Tuns, visit the Cathedral, founded in 1072, 3G5 feet long and 92 feet high, a mag- nificent building; afterward to the Castle, a splendid old palace, black with age, said to have been built by William the Conqueror. Bill at Edinburgh, three and a half days, £9 2s. ; fare to Durham, £5 10s., . . . . 14 12 Oct. 6. — Leave Durham at 11, reaching Ripon at 2.20 (The Unicorn), where taking a carriage, drive to Studley Royal, Earl de Grey and Ripon, containing in the park the mag- nificent ruins of Fountain Abbey. Here are some Norway spruce 130 feet high. The Ab- bey originally covered 12 acres, and much is well preserved, though founded 1,000 years ago. Here also are some yews 1,400 years old, 199 11 23 EXGLAXD. [the toek iiovse. 27 feet in circumference, which sheltered the £ s. monks when building the abbey. Bill at Dnr- 199 11 ham, £1 10s. ; fare to Ripon, £2 10s., . .40 Oct. 7. — Walk to Cathedral, being restored, hut a fine building, 320 feet long. Leave Ripon by train at 10.30, reach Harrogate at 11.30, and York at 1.30 (The York House). See the Cathedral, by many thought the finest in Eng- land, 500 odd feet long, by nearly 100 feet high, founded in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries; the great east window, 80 feet high, was painted by a man who under- took to do it in three years, at six shillings a week. Bill at Eipon, £2 13s. ; fare to York, £1 10s., 4 3 Oct. 8. — At York, seeing the Cathedral and old houses ; at 2 drive to Hesslington Hall, an old Elizabethan mansion of red brick, with old clipped yew-trees, 200 years old. Bill at York, 4 days, £10 2s. ; fare to Scarborough, £1 5s., . 11 7 Oct. 9. — Leave York at 9.30 in train, send- ing luggage to Scarborough ; stop at Castle Howard station, take 'bus to the Castle — Earl of Carlisle. The house very fine, built by Sir John Yanbrugh, and the park, with four splen- did avenues meeting in the centre, planted by the third earl, 150 years ago. The pictures and statues, both within and without the house, are superb. On by a later train to Scarborough (The Crown), to dine and — Bleep 219 1 24 Scarborough.] ENGLAND. [the crown. Oct. 10. — Walk on the esplanade and about £ & the town. 219 1 Oct. 1J. — Sunday. Oct. 12.— Bill at Scarborough, days, .210 Oct. 13. — Leave Scarborough at 2.30, reach- ing Leeds at 5.30 (Bull and Mouth, very bad) ; see the town (Station Hotel best), . Oct, 14.— By train at 9.30, 17 miles to Keigh- ley, then 4 miles by carriage to Haworth, a straggling village with one long street, to the Parsonage House, where lived the Brontes, Charlotte, Anne, and Maria, authoresses of "Jane Eyre," "Villette," "Wuthering Heights," etc. ; hero old Mr. Bronte, the incumbent of Haworth, lived 41 years on £150 a year, and died at 85, having outlived all his children. Expenses, ... .... 1 5 Back to Leeds to dine and sleep. Oct. 15. — Leave Leeds at 10.30 in train, reaching Rotherham -at 11.30; taking a fly, drive 4 miles to Wentworth House, Earl Fitz- william, the most magnificent house, perhaps, in England, 900 feet front ; the state apart- ments very grand, the dining-room very superb, being 50 feet square, the ground hull 50 by 75, and 30 feet high; all the three drawing-rooms very ornate and superbly gilded, with charm- ing pictures. See the chamber and dressing- room of Lord Strafford, who was beheaded. The stables even liner than Knowsley (Earl of Derby's) ; the gardens are wry stately. From Rotherham to Sheffield, 5 miles in fly, then by 211 12 3 35 woKKsor.] ENGLAND. [liox nnr. train, half an Lour to "Worksop (The Lion). £ 8. Bill at Leeds, £3 12s.; fly to Wentworth, 241 12 4 G Oct. 1G. — Drivein carriage 4 miles, to Clum- ber Park, scat of the Duke of Newcastle, beau- tifully situated with its Italian gardens, ex- tending over a lake filled with wild-fowl. A mile or so farther to Thoresby, Earl Manvers, with a fine effect of avenue, passing through a part of the park or chase called Bithagne and Birkland, being the oldest portions of Sher- wood Forest; huge oaks, 1,000 years old, aver- aging 30 to 40 feet in circumference, with a thick undergrowth of fern, through and amidst which are numerous deer ; nothing in Eng- land is perhaps grander or wilder than this forest of nearly 15,000 acres, with innumerable sylvan glades. Passing through Clipstone Park, where King John had a palace, lunch at the lit- tle inn famous for itshome-brewe'd. Keturning from here, drive through a part of "Welbeck Park, Duke of Portland, seeing the abbey at a dis- tance, and the ornamental water, unfinished in 1868, of over 200 acres. The park contains 2,083 acres, and some remarkable oaks, of which the most celebrated are the Two Porters, one being 100 feet high and 40 in circum- ference, the other 90 by 36 ; the Seven Sisters, 88 feet high, circumference 80 feet. The Green- dale oak in 1724 had an opening large enough to allow a carriage or three horsemen abreast to pass through, the circumference above the 245 18 26 tvokksop.] JEXGLAND. [the lion. arch, 35 feet 3 inches, height of the arch, 10 £ s. feet, width G feet 3 inches, supposed to he 245 18 1,000 years old. Some oaks which have hcen cut down were found to he 1,200 years old. From Welbeck to Worksop Manor, Lord Fo- ley's, and hack to Worksop to dine and sleep. Bill at Worksop, £5 15s. ; fare to Lincoln, £1 4s. ; to Boston, £1 4s. ; cah, 10s., . . 8 13 Oct. 17.— Leave Worksop hy train at 9.20, reaching Lincoln at 11 ; take cah and drive to the Cathedral, finer even than York, tower 266 feet high, length only six inches less than York. Leave Lincoln at 3.30, reaching Boston (The Peacock), at 5, Oct. 19. — Ascend the tower of St. Botolph's, with a magnificent view of Lincolnshire. Leave Boston hy train at 10, reach Grantham at 11.30 ; taking a fly, drive 8 miles to Belvoir Castle, the Duke of Rutland's superb estate, with magnificent rooms and pictures; from here at 4, hy train to Nottingham, 17 miles, George IV. inn. Bill at Boston, £4 10s.; fare to Grantham. £1 Is. ; fly to Belvoir Castle and hack, £1 10s. ; to Nottingham, 10s., . .7 11 Oct. 20. — Leave Nottingham at 10, in car- riage with post-horses, 11 miles to Newstead Ahbey (Lord Byron's), passing Westwell Hall, Duke of St. Albans. Newstead, very interest- ing, on a lake, the older parts of the abbey beautifully preserved, and the Italian gardens exquisite. The monument (tomb) to the mem ory of the poet's dog Boatswain being very 202 2 27 Nottingham.] ENGLAND. [george iv. conspicuous; from Newstead 3 miles farther £ s. to Aunesley Hall, where Mary Chaworth, By- 202 2 ron's first love lived; a beautiful park of 800 acres, an old Elizabethan house, with heavy mullioned windows and court-yards; a most charming Italian garden, heavy stone balus- trades and pilasters, with large stone balls on top ; an old church immediately adjoining and in connection with the house, 900 years old. Mary Chaworth's flower-garden exists just as it did in her day, and a little oaken door in the garden wall still shows the marks of Lord By- ron's balls, who used it as a target. From here 2 miles to Ilucknall, where, in the old church, built in 1100, is a mural tablet, on which is inscribed, " George Gordon, Lord Byron of Rochdale, Author of Childe Harold's Pilgrim- age, born in London, 1788, died at Missolonghi, 1824." From here to Wollaton Hall, Lord Middleton's, a superb, ornate, though gloomy house, with a splendid avenue and numerous deer. Back to Nottingham by 5, where, taking the train, reach Derby (The Royal) at 6. Bill at Nottingham, £2 7s. ; carriage to Newstead, £1 15s.; lunch, 6s.; fare to Derby, 10s., . 4 18 Oct. 21.— Leave Derby by train at 10.30, for Borrowwash, 5 miles ; walk or drive one mile to Elvaston Castle, Earl of Harrington, the most wonderful place in England, and probably in the world, for its topiary work, as well as collection of evergreens. Here are picea pins ■ apos 30 feet high, abies menzesii and douglasi 207 00 2S ieebt.] ENGLAND. [the koyal. 35 feet, hemlock-, much finer than these in £ s. America. The grand cut ranee through the 2G7 00 golden gates, opened only on state occasions, is bordered on one side by a variegated holly- hedge, with occasional standards of Irish yew, and on the other side (being divided by great masses of golden yew in a setting of common yew) is a line of golden and Irish yews, backed by a row of pinns nobilis ; at end of each grass avenue is a superb golden yew, 20 feet high and as broad ; from this you pass into three distinct and separate gardens, each more ex- traordinary than the other in size, and the figures of the topiary work. Entire cottages cut out of yew, yew-arbors 20 feet high, having a base 30 feet square, with a succession of steps ; the top surmounted by two peacocks, G feet long and 3 or more feet high, the head and figures closely cut, while the tails, in gold- en yew, are allowed to remain undipped and feathery. One very extraordinary house in yew, with several gables, is surmounted by two birds, one in a nest, the other attempting to fly out, each larger than the largest eagle. There are also perfectly green cones of English yew, 40 feet high, with golden heads" (caps of golden yew), these standing in a double base or platform of English yew, 25 to 30 feet square, and 12 to 15 inches high, perfectly smooth and flat, as if made of slate; there are , also long alleys of smooth turf bordered by alternate Irish and golden yews, the latter tied 267 00 29 v.] EXGLAXD. [the royal. i los ■ : i by wires to keep them pyramidal, and £ s. surmounted by golden crowns; other avenues 207 00 of Irish junipers and golden cypress. In ono of the gardens (each divided from the other by clipped yew-hedges 20 feet high, with occa- sional arches) are groups of Chinese barrels, cut out of juniper; in this garden a fine effect is produced by a large circle, 100 feet in diam- eter, made of large triangles of alternating golden and green yews, dovetailing into each other, and kept down (G inches high) so as to produce a brilliant parterre. One of the most effective things, however, is the Vandyck "Walk, a covered, irregular walk through an arbor, thickened at the bottom by box, and close over the head, the light being admitted by occa- sional loop-holes. The ornamental water is also most charmingly managed ; a lake of ap- parently endless extent, with the margin beau- tifully broken by occasional borders of smooth lawn, backed by artificial rock-work, and plant- ed with golden and English yews, deodars, and araucarias ; then again points of rough, ragged rock to the water's edge, in one case closely resembling a ruined castle, covered with moss and ivy, and the effect increased by broken mullioned window-bars set against one of the openings. At one end of the lake, after pass- ing through a dense yew-walk, you come sud- denly upon a large, round hole, 8 feet in diam- eter, in the rockery; through this you see the whole extent of the lake, with all its different 207 00 30 derby.] EXGLAXD. [the royal. points and islands, the softer parts in lawn with £ a. an occasional weeping" birch or willow; the 207 00 rougher with here and there a cedar of Lebanon or araucaria amidst the crags. Another beau- tiful effect is produced by a sudden vista through a cavern across the lake, to another vista through a cave, in which stands a mossy stone cross wreathed in silver ivy, duplicated in the lake by its reflection; and beyond this the vista is continued three miles through a dark fir-wood, until it terminates in Spondon Church spire. Back to Derby to dine and sleep, seeing also the Arboretum. Bill at Derby, £9 17s.; to Matlock, £1 10s., 11 7 Oct. 23. — Leave Derby by train at 9, reach- ing Matlock Bath at 9.40 (Temple Inn). Walk through the Cumberland Cavern, the largest in Derbyshire; after lunch, drive to Willersley Hall, the house of the original Arkwright ; see the mill where the spinning-jenny was invented and first used; thence to Lea Hurst, the resi- dence of Florence Nightingale, a pretty stone cottage in an estate of 5,000 acres. On still farther to "Wing-field Manor-house, a grand old ruin of the time of Henry IV. Here Mary Queen of Scots was a prisoner nine years. Back to Matlock to dinner. Oct. 23 and 24.— At Matlock. Oct. 25. — Leave the hotel at 9.30 in carrii reaching Haddon Hall, the Duke of Rutland's, 8 miles, at 11, one of the most interesting old — places in Eu 'land, built in the eleventh century. 278 7 31 MATLOCK.] • ENGLAND. [TKMPLE nAr. and tin.' original of Mrs. Radoliffe's "Mysteries £ s. of ddolpho." From here byBakewell, famous 278 7 for its sheep; to Ohatsworth, 2 miles, lunching at the Edensor Inn at the gate, after which see the house, gardens, great conservatory, etc., occupying about two hours, the wood-carvings in the house, by Gibbons, being very cele- brated. Thirty men are kept in the ornamental grounds and 25 in the kitchen garden. Back to Matlock to dine. Lunch, 13s.; fees and tolls, 8s., 11 Oct. 20.— Leave Matlock by train at 9.45, reaching Buxton at 10.15; taking carriage, drive 14 miles through the bleakest and high- est moors to Macclesfield to lunch, leaving Macclesfield at 3.30 in train, reach Congleton (Lion and Swan, very quaint) at 4 ; see the town. Bill at Matlock, and carriage to Chats- worth, 8 8 Fare to Buxton, 17s. ; carriage to Macclesfield and lunch, . 2 16 The Buxton moors, belonging to the Duke of Devonshire, are rented for shooting, at £12 the fortnight for each gun. Twelve gentlemen hire these moors for two weeks at this rate, and generally average 10 to 12 brace of grouse a gun each day. Each gun, therefore, pays a guinea a day, and shoots, or is supposed to, 10 pair of grouse. Oct. 27. — Leave Congleton by train at 10, reaching North Rode at 10.20, waiting three quarters of an hour and taking another train, 290 12 32 COXGLETOX.] ENGLAND. [lion axd swan. reach Alton Towers, Earl of Shrewsbury's, at £ 8. 11£, the most ornate and Italian-looking place 290 12 in England, a succession of beautiful terraces, with vases, statues, fountains, and flowers, su- perb trees both in variety and growth ; the cedars of Lebanon on the slopes down to the lake are especially fine. Fare to and fro, . 1 15 Oct. 28. — Leave Congleton in a carriage at 9.30, for Biddulph Grange, Mr. Bateman's, 4 miles, the most extraordinary place in England of its size; a "Wellingtonia avenue, a beautiful pinetum, a rock ; a Dutch, an Italian, and a stump garden — each concealed from the other ; a wonderful Chinese garden, which you enter through a cave over a Chinese bridge, the garden being planted with Chinese plants and trees, and adorned with pagodas, monsters, idols, and other features of that country. There are 23 acres only of ornamental ground, and 15 men allowed to keep them up. Back to Congleton to lunch, after which, leaving Congleton at 4.30, reach Stoke-on-Trent at 4.50. Bill at Congleton, £3 lis. ; fare to Stoke, 8s., . .3 19 Oct. 29. — Drive 3 miles from Stoke to Tren- tham, Duke of Sutherland's, by many esteemed the finest place in England, a beautiful park with majestic trees and fine hanging woods : the most exquisite pleasure-grounds, with grand masses of rhododendrons, azalias, mahonii gaultherias, etc, with large, open glades of grass, down to a beautiful lake, one mile long; ■ a succession of majestic terrace-gardens, with 29 33 BTOKB-ON-TBKNT.] ENGLAND. [STATION HOTEL. Italian balustrades to the water's edge; nothing £ 5. can be finer than the training of the pear-trees, 296 6 being in cup-form, as well as over umbrella trellises; the grape and peaeli houses, only 4 feet wide by, 12 high, the front glass being as high as the hack wall, thus having two sets of plants. Back to Stoke to lunch ; fly, 10s. ; bill at Stoke and fare to Stafford, £3 10s. 4 Leaving Stoke at 3, reach Stafford (The Tine), to dine and sleep. Oct. 31. — Taking a carriage, drive to Tixall Hall. Sir T. Clifford's ; Shugborough, Earl of Lichfield's; Ingestrie, Earl of Shrewsbury's, and Sandon, Earl of Harrowby's, 16 miles, fare, . 14 Of these places, Ingestrie was the finest house about the period of the Tudors, with a quantity of windows in bays and bows; the park is very fine, being in large, umbrageous masses, a superb beech avenue, 200 years old and a mile long, some fine cedars of Lebanon and Douglas firs, in the ornamental grounds. The next best place being Sandon, where the park is very undulating, and beautifully clothed in splendid trees, especially beech. Back to Stafford to dinner. Fly, . . . 14 Nov. 1. — Leave Stafford by rail at 11.15, reaching Rugely at 11.45. Lunch at the Talbot Arms, where the celebrated poisoning of Cook and others took place by Palmer, in 1855, Palmer's house being immediately opposite. After lunch, drive in fly to Blithfield, Lord — >t's splendid old park and house, said — a 301 14 34 STAFFORD.] EXGLAXD. [the vink. portion of it — to have been built in the time of £ s. William the Conqueror. From here, 4 miles to 301 14 Bishton, Lady Olivia Sparrow's, Wolseley Hall, Sir Charles Wolseley's which has been in the same family TOO years, containing a fine oaken drawing-room and carved staircase; from here to Hagley Hall, Lady de la Zouch's, a picturesque old house. Fare to and from Stafford and fly, £1 Is. ; lunch at Rugely ? 15s. Back to Staf- ford to dine, 116 Nov. 2. — Leave Stafford at 11.15, reaching Lichfield at 12, remaining two hours for the cathedral, one of the most ornate in England, the pulpit and screen being of elaborately orna- mented and twisted brass, with precious stones ; the altar, most exquisite in alabaster, inlaid with precious stones ; the monuments — Chan- trey's cherubs and Hodson's tomb — very superb. Leaving Lichfield by train at 3, reach Rugby (George IV.) at 4, seeing the school and play-ground, famous in "Tom Brown," close by the hotel. Lunch at Lichfield, 9s. ; fare to Lichfield 10s. ; Lichfield to Rugby, £1 12s., . 2 11 Nov. 3. — Rugby school until 12, when by rail to Leamington (The Clarendon), in one hour ; lunch and see the town. Bill at Rugby, £1 12s. ; Rugby to Leamington, 12s., . .2-4 Nov. 4. — Leave Leamington by rail for "War- wick, 2 miles; see Warwick Castle after lunch at the inn, drive in fly to Guy's Cliff, with a beautiful avenue of Scotch firs, 400 years old, best seen from the public road ; also, some 308 5 ENGLAND. [clarestdox. carious caves or recesses in the rocks; then 4 £ s. miles farther to Kenilworth Castle. Back to 308 5 by fly to dine. Lunch and car- 1 . 5. — Leave Leamington in carriage at 10, for Stratford, stopping at Warwick to see the Leicester Hospital, founded by Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, fur a master and 12 old soldiers, they having each a parlor and bed- room, and £80 a year ; the building- and fur- niture are completely of the period of tins foundation, 1573. See the identical chair for visitors used by James T. when he was enter- tained here. Drive 8 miles farther to Stratford- on-Avon, seeing- Shakespeare's house and the church where he was buried. Back to Leam- ington by Charlecote, still owned by the Lucy family, where Shakespeare was tried for ling deer; a fine old hail and grand park. Expenses, carriage and lunch, . . .20 Xoc. 6-10. — At Leamington; excurse to Coventry and back, and to Stoneleigli Abbey, Lord Leigh's, a fine combination of an ancient and stately modern house, a beautiful Italian garden, sloping to the river with steps to the water ; the park remarkable for its venerable trees, nearly as fine as Sherwood Forest ; near the greenhouse a very fine Taxodium semper- virens, also fine aravcarias and Cryptomeria Japonica, 30 feet high, Nov. 11. — Leave Leamington by train at 10. reaching Worcester, with three changes, at 1.50 311 5 36 HEREFORD.] EXGLAXD. [green dragon. (Star and Garter Inn) ; after lunch see catlie- £ s. dral, splendidly restored; here are the tombs 311 5 of King John and Prince Arthur. Hard by the town the battle of Worcester was fought. Bill at Leamington, 6 days, £15 ; fare to Worcester, . 10 15 Nov. 12. — Leave Worcester at 11.25 in train, reaching Malvern at 11.50. Taking fly, drive through the town to Malvern Wych, seeing a beautiful view, through a cutting in the rocks, of the two counties — Herefordshire on one side and Worcestershire on the other — from a height of 1,500 feet. From here to Madresfield Court, Earl of Beauchamp's, an interesting old place; the house with three gables, covered with ivy, surrounded by a moat filled with water ; the intervening lawn beautifully planted with choice evergreens. Taking train at 3, reach Hereford (The Green Dragon), to dine and sleep. Bill at Worcester, £2 16s. ; fare to Hereford, £1 8s., 4 4 See cathedral, with fine screen. Nov. 13. — Leave Hereford at 9.40, passing Holm Lacey — a fine old Elizabethan mansion, where Pope wrote his " Man of Ross " — to Ross ; where, taking a fly, drive to the church, where the "Man of Ross" is buried; then to the ruins of Goodrich Castle, built in 600 — before the conquest. Afterward to Goodrieh Court, Sir J. P. Meyrick's, best imitation of an ancient castle in England, with furniture to correspond, and a splendid collection of armor. From here at 3, by train, to Cheltenham (the 302 4 4 37 CHELTENHAM.] ENGLAND. [the tlough. Plough), via Gloucester, at 4. The view from £ s. the inn at Ross very fine. Bill at Hereford, 832 4 £1 10s. ; fare to Cheltenham, 15s. ; fly to Goodrich and back, £1 2s., . . . .37 Nov. 14-. — Leave Cheltenham by train at 11 for Gloucester, where, taking a fly, drive to Highnam Court, Mr. Gambier Parry's, cele- brated for its pinetum, perhaps the most com- plete in England, not excepting Dropmore. See Mr. Parry's church, built and adorned at his own expense, at a cost of £30,000, much of the painting and emblazoning being his own work. Back to Worcester, to the cathedral, built in 1047, containing the monuments of Edward II. and Robert of Normandy, son of the Conqueror ; the east window, 87 feet high ; the vault of the choir and the cloisters are con- sidered the most beautiful in England. Return to Cheltenham at 4.40. Expense, . . .12 Nov. 15. — At 12, drive 2 miles, to South am House, Earl of Ellenborough's, a charming, quaint old Elizabethan house, built in 1G28. On the summer-house is a glass star instead of a vane, which, in the sun, produces a very pretty effect. Eest of the day, see the town. Nov. 16. — Leave Cheltenham at 11, reaching Bristol at 12.15, and, after half an hour's delay, Bath at 1.30 (York House). See the town, the park gardens, crescent, etc. Bill at Chelten- ham, £12 lGs. ; fare to Bath, £2 3s., . . 14 19 Nov. 12. — Bath. Abbey Church, pump room, etc. 351 12 38 batii.] ESGLAXD. [tokk house. Nov. 13. — Leave Bath at 10, in carriage, for £ s. Badminton, Duke of Beaufort's, 16 miles; a 851 13 splendid house and park, with avenue 3 mil long, from Worcester Lodge. The duke, who is the present Nimrod of England, hunts every day, rain or shine, through the season, keeping 40 horses for this purpose. Back to Bath, by Codrington Hall, a fine old place. In the church at Badminton Lord Raglan, the English Com- mander-in-Chief in the Crimea, is buried. Here, also, is the monument to the Marchion- ess of Worcester, with its famous inscription, considered the most complimentary ever com- posed : " Underneath this stone doth lie As much virtue as could die ; Which, when alive, did vigor give To as much beauty as could live." Carriage to Badminton and expenses, . 2 17 JSTov. 14. — Leave Bath at 10.00, by train, for Chippingham; then, by fly, 5 miles to Bowo<> ■!. Marquis of Lansdowne's, a beantiful Italian palace and superb place, especially rich in ter- raced gardens; a lake of 30 acres, with a fine pinetuin, containing a Douglas fir 70-odd feet high. Five miles beyond Bowood is Lacock Abbey, a wonderful old place, said to be the 1 >est-preserved abbey "in residence " in England, founded in 1229, the cloisters, kitchen, and nuns 1 kitchen being very complete. Driving 3 miles — farther, you come to Oorsham IIo 54 !) 39 exeti:?..] ENGLAND. [the rotal. Methuen's, a splendid house, with extraordinary £ *. yew-hedges, 30 feet thick and as high; the 354 9 park planted by the celebrated Brown and the lake made by Repton. Back to Chippingham, then by rail to Bath to dinner. Expenses, . 1 7 Near Bath is Prior Bark, where Fielding wrote " Tom Jones." Nov. 15. — Leave Bath in train at 1.25, reach- ing Exeter (Royal) at 2.25. Walk about the town, seeing the old houses and the cathedral. Bill at Bath, £15; Bath to Exeter, £4 4s., . 19 4 Nov. 10. — Take a fly at 10, drive one mile to the celebrated nursery of Veitch & Co., seeing the famous pinetum-walk, with Douglas firs, cedars of Lebanon, Cryptomerias^ Taxodium, etc., 30 feet high ; also splendid cypress, Goviana, and Macrocarpa. Thence a mile in another direction, to the nursery and pinetum of Lucomb, Pince & Co., seeing, near the entrance, the celebrated Lucomb (evergreen) oak, the largest and finest in England, also the far-famed conifer rock-walk, of a quarter of a mile, between high, overhanging, artificial rocks, filled with every conceivable and known variety of evergreens, rock-plants, ferns, pam- pas-grass, Arundos, etc. Here is the first Wellingtonia planted in England, also the first Thuja gigantea, the one 25x30 feet, and the other about 12 feet high. This collection of evergreens is, perhaps, the finest in England. Near Exeter is Bicton, the celebrated place of Lady Rolle. Leaving 375 40 EXETER.] ENGLAND. [the royal. Exeter by train at 2.30, reach Torquay (the £ s. Royal) at 3.10. Bill at Exeter, £2 10s.; fare 37.") to Torquay, £1 Cs., 3 Hi Nov. 17. — Torquay for three weeks ; one parlor and three fine chambers, with board for four persons in private apartment, £10 5s. a week— LSGO-'GT. Nov. 18. — At 10, taking a fly, drive to Babbi- comb, Anstey's Cove, Bishopthorp, "Watcomb, the seat of the late Mr. Brunei; the grounds beautifully laid out on a hill-side, and the val- ley exquisitely arranged with the most orna- mental and rare trees and shrubs, even the cedar of Goa and Yucca alc&folia standing out all winter. Nov. 19. — After lunch, drive to Berry Pome- roy Castle, a fine old ruin, charmingly draped in ivy. Nov. 20. — Leave Torquay in train at 10.15 for Dawlish, 12 miles; then, by fly, 2 miles to Luscomb, beautiful house and grounds ; then -1 miles to Mamhead. To an American, Mam- head is one of the most instructive places in England, as being sufficiently small and com- pact enough to be within the reach of an Amer- ican ownership. The ornamental grounds, only seven acres, were kept in exquisite order (in I860) by two men. Here are the finest Abies morinda, probably, in the country, GO feet high, and very pendulous; also a mass of rhododendrons, 25 feet high and 150 feet in circumference, the earliest already in bloom, 378 16 41 pat.] EXGLAXD. [the rotal. i:i November. Although the park is only 70 £ s. the groups and masses are so beauti- 378 16 ful]y and artistically disposed, and the ground so undulating, and with such distant views of the sea and the river Exe, thai it looks as if it might contain a thousand acres. The old church, with its magnificent old yew-tree, is quite the finest in rural beauty in the south of England. Back to Torquay to dine. Expenses, 2 7 Bill at Torquay, three weeks, and sundries, . 53 15 Dec. 13. — Leave Torquay by train at 11, reach- ing Exeter at 12.30 and Salisbury at 4.15 (White Hart). Walk to the cathedral. Tor- quay to Salisbury, 5 16 Dec. 14. — After seeing cathedral and bishop's palace, with pretty gardens, take carriage at 11 for old Sarum and Stonehenge, 9 miles across Salisbury Plain. Back by Wilton House, Earl of Pembroke's. See the splendid Vandyck- room, with perhaps the finest and largest sized pictures of this master to be found any- where in one collection, most of them likenesses of the Pembroke family. In the gardens are ' the cedars of Lebanon planted by Sir Philip Sidney, it being at Wilton House he wrote his ' ; Acadia." Near by is the church built by Lord Herbert of Lea, at a cost of £80,000. Back to Salisbury to dine. Expenses, . 1 15 Dec. 15. — Leave Salisbury in train at 10 for Tisbury, 17 miles, where, taking a fly, drive to Wardour Castle, Earl of Arundel's, a fine house, with a very grand hall. Walk across the park 442 9 42 eALisJur.v.] EXGLAXD. [white hart. to old Wardour Castle, a splendid ruin, magnifi- £ s. cently clothed ill ivy, and with the most superb 442 cedars in England, except those at Warwick. Here Lady Blanche Arundel defended the cas- tle for a fortnight, with a handful of men, against one thousand Parliament troops. From here, drive across the country to Fonthill, at present belonging to the Marquis of Westmin- ster, once the celebrated residence of the eccen- tric Beckford, the talented author of" Vathek," the most gorgeous of Eastern stories. There are, however, no remains of the original Font- hill Abbey of Mr, Beckford's time, except a portion of the great tower; and to one not interested in Mr. Beckford's history and the extraordinary circumstances connected with the building of the abbey, this visit might be omitted. Back to Salisbury by G. Expenses : fare to Tisbury, 18s.; carriage, 18s., . . 1 1G Dec. 16. — See cathedral again, the chapter- house being particularly fine. Leave Salisbury at 2.15, reaching Winchester (The George) at 3.33. Bill at Salisbury, three days, £0 2s.; Salisbury to Winchester, £1 4s., . . , 10 G Dec. IT. — Winchester. See cathedral and Winchester school, etc. Dec. 18. — Leave Winchester at 10.12 by train, reaching Basingstoke at 11, where, taking a fly, drive G miles to Strathfieldsaye, the Duke of Wellington's, a flat place, with a pretty river running through the lawn; a very plain yellow-stone house of two stories, simply fur- 464 11 43 wiNcnEPTEn.] ENGLAND. [the geoege. nished, with the same patterned carpet over £ s. the whole house, most of the- chambers and 454 11 si lino of the parlors being papered with engrav- ings pasted on the walls. There is an avenue of yews hero very good, and an interesting enclosure, where Copenhagen, the horse which the duke rode at the "battle of "Waterloo, is buried ; the place generally of little pretension. Dark to Winchester at 3. Expenses, . .20 Dec. 19. — Bill at "Winchester, four days, . 3 10 Leave "Winchester by express train at 10.12, reaching London (Maurigy Hotel, Regent Street) at 12.9. "Winchester to London, . . .26 4G2 This trip, of about four months, of which three weeks were passed at Torquay and some two weeks at other places, might be accomplished in two months and a half; and in summer, with longer days, in pro- portionally shorter time. The expenses put down are simply those of hotels, carriages, and railroads. The author's actual expenses for extras, sundries, amuse- ments, etc., were, for the period, £712. 41 SECOND TOUR. EXfil.AXI). (For Three Persons. — Five Weeks.) April 8. — Leave London at 12, reaching £ s. Rochester (The Bull) at 1.15. After lunch take a cab; drive to Cobham House, Earl of Darn- ley's — splendid woods and park. Back by Gad's-hill House, residence of Charles Dickein. Scene of the celebrated robbery of Falstaff, in Henry IV., by Prince Hal. Fare, ... 15 April 9. — Visit cathedral. Around the town. Seeing Eastgate House — very quaint and ornate ; also the old castle said to have been built by Julius Caesar. At 12 take train for Canterbury, arriving at 1 (The Fountain). After lunch, take train for Margate, and then by fly, 4 miles, to Ramsgate ; the former much the finest as a marine residence. Back to Canterbury at 7, to dine. Bill at Rochester, £1 14s. ; fare and cab, £1 10s., 3 4 April 10. — Visit the cathedral; truly mag- nificent, especially the exterior, which is ! feet 3 10 45 TUXBRIDGE WILLS.] EXGLAXD. [THE CAVEELET. longer than York Minster, though not as wide. £ s. Seeing inside the nave, the Bpot where Thomas- 8 19 tt-Becket was slain in reign of Henry II., in 1160; also the tomb and monument, in brass, of Edward the Black Prince; -with the original shield, coat-of-mail, and helmet with leopard crest, worn by the prince at the battle of Crcssy, in 1350. After that, to St. Martin's, the first Christian church, founded in 187 by some Christians of the Roman army. Queen Bertha, the first Christian queen, was baptized here, in the same font they now use ; and St. Augustin preached here. Erasmus, in visiting this cathe- dral in 1510, said: "Gold was the meanest thing to be seen. All shone and glittered with precious stones of extraordinary magnitude, some larger than the egg of a goose." After lunch, at 1, leave Canterbury, one of the quaintest of old towns, by train; reaching Tun- bridge TVells, to tea. A lovely spot, and a ch arming hotel in a lawn (The Caverley). Bill at Canterbury, £2 2s.; to Tunbridge, £1 10s., . 3 12 Both the Bull, at Rochester, and the Foun- tain, at Canterbury, are very comfortable, old- fashioned inns. April 11. — Take train at 12 to Tunbridge, 5 miles ; then drive by fly, 8 miles, to Knolle, the ancient seat of the Dukes of Dorset; now occu- pied by Countess Amherst. A grand old place, celebrated even in the time of the Conqueror — quite as old as Iladdon ; and the state apart • ments in perfect preservation. The fire-dogs 7 11 46 TCXE7.IDGE WELLS.] EXGLAND. [the caverley. very handsome — those in King James's bed- £ s. room of solid silver; the bed-cover of cloth-of- 7 11 gold, in scarlet tissue, cost £8,000 ; the mirrors, dressing-table, sconces, etc., like the fire-dogs, being of solid silver; the walls in tapestry cost- ing £20,000. The pictures very interesting — many Knellers, Lelys, and the original of Sir Joshua Reynolds's "Gypsy Girl." Knolle has belonged to, and been inhabited at various periods by, Archbishop Cranmer, the Earl of Leicester, the Earl of Warwick, and many others. It is one of the oldest inhabited hous in England which retains its ancient furniture. The park is truly magnificent, 8 miles in circum- ference, with majestic trees; the Duchess's walk being very fine. Back to Tunbridge, to dine. Expenses, 15 April 12. — At Tunbridge. Seeing the town. Nothing can well be prettier than the situation of the Caverley Inn, or better kept — in a charm- ing lawn, like a private place. April 13. — At 10, taking a carriage, drive 5 miles, to Penshurst, the ancient seat of the Syd- ney family, and where Sir Philip Sydney was born, in 1554. In the park is the oak planted at his birth, to which Pen Jonson alludes as " That tall tree, too, which of a nut was set At his great birth, where all the Muses met.'' Penshurst, like Knolle, was of importance be- fore the Conquest; and, after being in posses- sion of several noble families, was presented by Edward IV. to Sir William Sydney in L549, 8 1G 47 TI-NHRIDGE WELLS.] ENGLAND. [THE CAVERLEY. after the battle of Hodden Field. The young £ s. Duke of Gloucester and his sister the Princess 8 1G Elizabeth, the children of Charles I., remained a year here, under charge of the Countess of Leicester, who was the mother of the " Sacha- rissa" of the poet Waller, and a beautiful avenue in the park is named from her " the Sacharissa Walk." Penshurst was also the birthplace of Algernon Sydney, beheaded in the Tower in 1G83. The mansion, like that of Ivnolle, en- closes two courts. The fine old baronial hall is 5-i feet wide, by 38 long, and 62 high ; having a raised dais at the end, and three antique table3 for the servitors below. The fire was in the centre of the hall, on an immense set of double bars on high dogs of iron, rudely carved; the smoke ascending through some flumes in the ceiling. The most interesting apartments at Penshurst are the rooms occupied by Queen Elizabeth, where the furniture, bed, dressing- table, and toilet arrangements, remain precisely as during the queen's visit — even to her ink- stand and card-table, embroidered by her own hand. In the gallery is a bridle once used by the Earl of Leicester. The park was once G miles in extent, but is now much reduced. From Penshurst drive by same carriage \% miles to Redleaf, seat of William Wells, and so celebrated by Loudon, in his magazine, 30 to 40 years ago. The place is still admir- ably kept up, and looks precisely as it does in Mr. Loudon's illustrations. The flower- 8 1G 43 st. Leonard's.] ENGLAND. [victoria. garden in diamond beds, edged with tile, is £ s. the same — even the rustic houses are un- 8 10 changed. The ornamental grounds are in as exquisite order and as beautiful as it is possible to conceive ; about twelve acres, kept by nine men, two of whom have worked here for fifty years. At end of the lawn, separated by a wire fence, is a beautiful rolling park of many hun- dred acres; and immediately near the rockery is a charming lake. The collection of trees, though not as large as many others, are much more interesting from their size; being the first ever introduced into England. There are here two Deodar cedars, 58 and 65 feet high, which had quite assumed the character and habit of cedars of Lebanon ; a Cunningliamia sinensis, 25 feet high, with a stem 5 feet in circumfer- ence ; a Cryptomeria, 30 feet; a Douglas fir, 70 ; an Abies morinda, G5; and a superb Mensie- sii, 70. There is also, among a great many other very rare plants, a Pinus ponderosa, the largest in England, 80 feet high, raised from a seed sent Mr. "Wells in a letter from the lamented Douglas, and taken by him from a cone shot down by his rifle. The collection of rhododen- drons was very fine, especially the Sikkins in the house. Back to Tunbridge, to dinner, at 4 ; where, taking train at 5.30, reach St. Leonard's at G.20 (Victoria Hotel). Expenses at Tun- bridge, and carriage, 9 IS April 13. — St. Leonard's. Walk about the town and on the Esplanade, 3 miles long, the IS 1-1 5 Portsmouth.] ENGLAND. [the doltoix. finest in Europe. Leave St. Leonard's at 1, £ s. reaching Brighton at 8. (Bedford Hotel.) Bill 18 14 al St. Leonard's, £2 3s.; to Brighton, 17s., . 3 April 14. — At Brighton. "Walk about the town and on the Esplanade; see the Pavilion, built 1 »y George IV., in the Oriental style — some of the rooms, the banquet ing-hall, and music- room, being most extraordinary. j ipril 15. — Leave Brighton by train, at 11, for Ford Station, in 40 minutes; where, by fly, in 15 minutes, to Arundel Castle — Duke of Nor- folk's — a portion built by Alfred the Great, be- fore the Norman Conquest, being 1,200 years old. In the keep is a subterranean passage, 5 miles long, to Emberley Castle. Here is a beau- tiful funebral cypress. The dairy is very pretty and complete, 25 cows being milked by two men and a boy, and the milk and butter cared for by one woman and a girl. Lunch at Ford Station, and at 2.20 by train to Chichester in 20 minutes. (The Dolphin.) Taking a fly, drive 3 miles, to Goodwood, the Duke of Rich- mond's; an uninteresting house outside, but with some fine rooms and pictures; a most ex- tensive park and race-course; some old cedars and evergreen-oaks. Back to Chichester, to dine,, at 6. Bill at Brighton, £9 10s. ; fare to Chichester, £1 6s., 10 16 April 10. — Leave Chichester at 11, reaching Portsmouth at 11.40. Taking a fly, drive round the town, as also Portsea and Southsea; seeing the dock-yard, where 9,000 men are employed, 32 10 50 9IIAXKLIX.] ENGLAND, [daisii hotel. and seeing the Victory, on board of which Lord £ *. Nelson was killed, at the battle of Trafalgar. 32 10 Cab and lunch, 12s.; bill at Chichester, €1 12s., 2 4 April IT. — At 1.10, by boat to Ryde, G miles, parsing Spithead. Taking carriage after lunch at Ryde, drive 9 miles to the beautiful little village of Shanklin (Daish Hotel). April 18. — Taking carriage, drive to Appel- dercombe ; home by Ventnor and Bonchurch, 15 miles. Bill at Shanklin, . . . 5 10 April 20. — Leave Shanklin at 11 ; stopping an hour at Sandrock Hotel, one of the most charming of rural inns, covered with ivy ; and later at Northcourt, Sir Henry Gordon's, with a pretty old park of only 15 acres. Lunch at Brixton, where there is an interesting old church 800 years old, where the late Bishop of Oxford was incumbent ten years, and reaching Freshwater about 5, to dine and sleep. April 21. — Leave Freshwater at 10, passing Farringford House, the residence of Alfred Tennyson; reaching Alum Bay at 11.30 to lunch, after which, taking a boat, row around the Needles, passing through the Camel's Eye into Scratchel's Bay, under immense chalk- cliffs, perfectly white, and 600 feet high ; into the great cave, 296 feet long, with the over- hanging arch, resplendent with exquisite pris- matic colors, and covered with thousands of birds. Returning to Alum Bay, resume car- riage, and passing through several lovely vil lages, including Yarmouth, and Carisbrook with 4 I 4 51 £ s. 40 4 5 10 2 15 wi.st cowES.] EXGLAyi. [fountain. rtle and well, to JS-ewport, whence by rail five miles to West Cowes (Fountain). Car- riage round the island, ..... Bill at Freshwater, . . . . April 22. — Take boat across the Medina River to East Oowes. Seeing the entrance to Osborne, and walking through the grounds of East Cowes Castle ; again taking boat, row round end of the island ; a superb sea-wall here, belonging to Mr. Bell, of BelVs Life in London, costing £30,000. After landing, walk through the town to the Esplanade and Royal Yacht Club House, at 5 ; take steamer for Southampton at 6. Bill at Cowes, £1 17; boat, etc., 8s., 2 5 Southampton (The Dolphin). April 23. — Leave Southampton by train at 11.35, reaching Oxford (The Mitre), ma Basing- stoke and Reading, at 3.05. April 24. — TTalk through the various col- leges and their gardens — the avenue in Christ- Church meadows, and Addison Water-walk, as well as the Botanic Garden, being particularly fine. See the rowing on the river every evening. April 25. — Taking a carriage, drive eight miles to Blenheim — Duke of Marlborough's — erected in 1707 from designs by Sir John Yan- brugh. It is, perhaps, the finest private palace in England. The suite of state apartments, 400 feet long, is very grand, and filled with magnificent pictures by Rubens, Yandyck, Sir 51 52 oxford.] EXGLAXD. [the mitre. Godfrey Kneller, Sir Joshua Reynolds, etc.; £ s t that of Sarah, first Duchess of Marlborough, 51 represents her as one of the most beautiful ■women of that period. The hall is very grand, G7 feet high, and the library, 183 feet long, con- taining 17,000 volumes, worth £60,000. The gardens also are very fine — some 300 acres, of which 150, in grass, are cut every eight days. Fine masses of rhododendron and one mass of Portugal laurel 320 feet in circumference ; the artificial water here is 150 acres. In an en- closure near the garden are shown some emeus, a species of ostrich, which are quite domesti- cated, breeding every year. The lien lays the eggs, wherever the fancy takes her ; the cock gathers them together, and sits upon them liimself nine weeks. Lunch at the inn at "Woodstock, famous for its gloves, and back to Oxford to dine. Expense, . . . .15 April 20. — Oxford in the morning. Taking train at 4.15 p. m., reach Buckingham at 6 (Swan and Castle). Bill at Oxford, £10 ; Ox- ford to Buckingham, 8s., 10 8 April 27. — Walk or drive to Stowe, the mag- nificent seat of the Duke of Buckingham; the entrance near the hotel, through a grand arch and an avenue, four miles long, of beeches; the house very superb, 969 feet front, and the park very majestic. Lunch at Buckingham, and, taking train at 1.20, reach Woburn | Bed- ford A n 1 1 s) at 3.10. April 28.— Walk to Woburn Abbey, Duke 62 13 53 wouurcx.] £X(i LAXD. [bedpobd ASMS. of Bedford's, close to the inn; take it all in £ s. - fine as any place in England — the farm G2 18 ingementa most extensive and admirable; the Lous- and park superb ; and the place won- derfully well kept up. The interior of Woburn Abbey combines more of elegance and comfort tban most of the show-houses, the rooms gen- erally not being very large or high, though very ornate. One apartment contains fourteen Tandy cks ; another was filled with Canaletti, the most valuable collection in the country. In the library — a charming room in white and gold, with windows opening upon the flower- garden, and divided into three parts by col- umns, with 14,000 volumes — is the original Lion's ilouth, mentioned by Addison in the Rambler, into which the contributions to the Spectator were thrown. The picture-gal- lery, 130 feet in length, as well as the different corridors, is filled with splendid pictures of the Bedford family, by Kneller, Lely, Sir Joshua Reynolds, etc. ; also some beautiful pic- tures by Stuart-Newton and Leslie. Here also is the cane which Charles I. left on his last visit here. In a circular room at the end are Canova's Three Graces. The gardens and ornamental grounds — 50 acres — are most charmingly laid out and planted — an avenue of araucarias, fifteen years old and some 18 feet high ; also one of Deodars, 80 feet high. There is a horse-chestnut here, near ; the house, though outside the Ila-IIa, 300 feet 62 13 54 CAilSKIDGE.J EXGLAXD. [THE BULL. in circumference. An arcade leading from the £ s. house through the gardens is one-fifth of a G2 13 mile long. There is a great deal of ornamental water in park and gardens, mostly formed by tlie drainage. The park consists of 3,800 acres, filled with deer and sheep, and renowned for its verdure and fertility. The farm-buildings are also very perfect, one large yard, enclosed by a high brick wall, being devoted to different shops — carpenters, painters, joiners — all flu- houses, carts, fences, buildings, etc., being made on the place, even to repairs to the abbey. April 29. — Leave Woburn by carriage at 10, driving seven miles to Ampthill Park — Lord Wenselydale — afmeoldplace with a charming avenue ; from here, five miles to "Wrest Park, Lady Oowper's, a fine house in style of the pal- ace of the Tuileries, with gardens truly royal, like Versailles, with grand water-squares, surrounded by immense yew-hedges and e ■ - tended vistas of elm, lime, and beech, with statues and temples at the end of the views. The vegetable gardens and training of the fruit- trees most perfect; fifty acres of pleasure- grounds ; the walks in the Italian gardens 25 feet wide, and the water-glades and vistas twice this. The American garden was sur- rounded by a double yew-hedge, a yard or so apart — one, two feet high, the other, three, to represent a lady's flounce ; the beds of rhodo- ■ dendrons and azalias being r ; ■■ ■ 1 from the 62 13 camdridge.1 EXGLAXD. [the bull. ground-level to biz feet in the centre. From £ t t here five miles to station, where take train to 62 18 Oauabridge (The Bull). Bill at Woburn, £2 10s.; fly, £2; train, 18s., . . . .58 April 30. — Taking a guide, visit Sydney College, seeing the apartments occupied by Cromwell when a student here, 1G1G, his name being entered on the college books : " Oliverus Cromwell, Hnntingtoniensis, admissus ad com- meatum Bociorum Aprilis vicissimo sexto, tntore magistro Pieardo Howlett." Over this is writ- ten, "Grandis impostor, earnifexperditissimus.'' To Christ College, seeing the mulberry-tree planted by Milton in 1673 ; and St. John's Col- lege, seeing the chapel, library, and kitchen ; also the chapel, library, and kitchen of Trinity, where they daily dine # 600 undergraduates; after which, to the Fitzwilliani Museum and Pembroke College, holding only 44 under- graduates ; and lastly, to Corpus, Peterhouse, King's, and Queen's. The chapel at King's said to be the finest in Christendom, com- menced by Edward IV., and built by different kings to Henry VIII., Richard III. having contributed £700 toward it. "Walk through the beautiful grounds of King's, Cains, Clare, and St. John's, down to the boating-station. May 2. — Leave Cambridge by train at 1.30; reach Audley End, the magnificent seat of Lord Braybrook, a splendid estate given by Henry VIII. to the first Lord Cornwallis, con . taining one of the grandest of halls and dining- 68 1 56 elt.] ENGLAND. [tue lamb. rooms ; the house, once a Benedictine monas- £ s. tery. A mile beyond is Saffron Walden, where G8 1 the church is said to be the finest parish church in England. Back to Cambridge at 5.30. Expense, 10 May 3, — Leave Cambridge at 1.30 by train for Ely (The Lamb), 10 miles, arriving at 2. See the cathedral, by far the most ornate of all the English cathedrals ; the wood carvings over the stalls most beautiful ; fifteen to twen- ty subjects from the Old, and as many from the New Testament. The Reredos of alabaster wonderfully carved and enriched with precious stones, at a cost of £3,000. Bill at Cambridge, 9 1G May 4. — Leave Ely at 10.48, reaching King's Lynn (The Globe) at 11.55. After lunch at 1, taking a carriage, drive to Sandringham, 8 miles ; seat of the Prince of Wales ; an inferior house (in 18G6), but a grand, new, and spacious kitchen-garden of fifteen acres — seven within, and eight without the walls. The trees beau- tifully trained, the pears (Standards) being all trained as distaffs. There are some eight or ten new fruit and forcing houses here, thirty or forty feet long each, four or five of which were devoted to pines, three hundred a year being fruited. Flowers, asparagus, mushrooms, lettuce, beans, peas, and other vegetables, were sent to London every day for the prince's table. The gates of wrought iron to the avenue were very grand, costing £1,G00, and given to the prince by the city of Norwich. The interior 7B 17 57 lynx regis] , ENGLAND. [tiik globe. of the Louse very simple and small, not as large £ s. or fine as many country-houses on the Hudson 78 17 River; the dining-room only holding twenty; the eqnerries having to be quartered in a cot- tage, and the servants in the village. The nur- sery of the future King of England was not over 12 x 15, and his Led a simple little plain cot. A very interesting thing at Sandringham is the method of breeding and raising pheasants. Thirty compartments were each occupied by one cock and twelve hen-pheasants. Every morning the eggs are gathered and placed under common hens, twelve to fifteen to each. When hatched, the hen and young pheasants are removed to coops, each with a little yard. When sufficiently old, the young pheasants are turned out into the preserves. Three thousand are raised in this manner in a single spring. The dog-kennels are likewise well worth see- ing, though only for shooting-dogs — pointers, setters, retrievers, etc. May 5. — Leave the hotel in a carriage at 10, driving first to Houghton House, Lord Chol- mondeley's, built by Sir Robert Walpole in 1700; certainly the most superb interior in England. The grand hall, a cube of forty feet, is unsurpassed, the entire sides and ceiling being of elaborately-carved stone, the figures of the size of life. The grand banqueting- room, drawing-rooms, state bedrooms, etc., wonderfully beautiful — especially the ceilings, exquisitely carved, enriched, and gilt; the 78 17 PETERBOROUGH.] EXGLAXD. [THE ANGEL. great wonder of the house being the doors of £ s. solid mahogany in the state-rooms, highly 78 17 gilded. The views from the windows of the grand avenues and the park are superb. From here 14 miles on to Ilolkham, seat of the Earl of Leicester, whose ancestor, Mr. Coke, was considered the first farmer in the country. A grand house and park, with most stately ave- nues. Back 26 miles to Lynn, making a drive of 52 miles. Bill at Lynn and carriage, . . 9 10 May 6. — Leave Lynn at 1.30 by train, reach- ing Peterborough (The Angel) at 3.30. Visit the cathedral, a portion of the front being very beautiful ; the interior also very handsome, especially the roof of the Lady Chapel. Here is a monument to Mary, Queen of Scots, and Catharine of Arragon, who are buried here, and a stone carved in figures as a memento of the Christians killed by the Danes in 870 — a thousand years old. Fare to Peterborough, £1 3s. ; bill, £2 6s., 3 9 Hay 7. — Walk or drive to Milton Abbey, Lord Fitzwilliam's, 4 miles from Peterborough. A fine old mansion, time of Henry VIII. ; grand old trees in the park, especially one group of horse-chestnuts. Taking train at 5.30, reach Stamford (The George) at 6. Bill at Peter- borough, 2 6 May 8. — "Walk to Burleigh House, Marquis of Exeter's, built and planted by the great Lord Burleigh, Queen Elizabeth's High Treas urer, who (the queen) planted the great elm 94 11 59 ketti:: ENGLAND* [the royal Bear 1 1 1 * - boitse. The hall wonderfully fine, £ s. and BO are all the state-rooms, which have 94 11 been occupied by Queen Elizabeth and by C^ieen Victoria. The original kitchen of Lord Burleigh is still used. The collection of pic- tures very beautiful. Returning to hotel, take a carriage and drive 25 miles to Kettering (The Royal), passing, first, Deene Park, Lord Cardigan's, the leader of the celebrated charge of the Light Brigade at Balaklava. Deene Park has very beautiful grounds and lake ; the Deodar cedars are especially beautiful. From here to Farming AVoods, a charming, quaint old place ; also with a river, and a superb double avenue. Four miles beyond, Boughton House, Duke of Buccleugirs, an im- mense old house, the grounds interspersed with water-glades and avenues, extending in all 76 miles. An ancestor to the present duke was anxious to make an avenue from Boughton to London, VG miles, but, not being able to accomplish this, he made the same amount of miles in avenue on his own place. Reach Ket- tering to dinner at 7 o'clock. Bill at Stamford and posting expenses, 3 OG May 9. — Leave Kettering in posting-carriage at 10 for Rushton Hall, a grand old Elizabethan house, with superb great-timbered hall, where Father Oldcorn and two of the Guy Fawkes conspirators were concealed in the chimney, the place then belonging to Tresham. Taking ■ rail, reach Northampton via Wellingborough 97 11 GO NOBTHAMPTON.] ENGLAND. [THE GEORGE. at 12.00. After lunch at the George, take car- £ s. riage and drive G miles to Althorp, Lord Spen- 07 1 1 cer's, a simple hut large house, famous for its pictures, there being one of a boy blowing a light, of inestimable value, and many Ru- benscs, Vandycks, Lelys, Knellers, etc., etc. A grand library of 45,000 volumes, Dryden being once librarian. Here is a Decameron, costing £2,2G0, put up at auction at £100, with only two bidders — the Duke of Roxburgh and Earl Spencer: second bid, £120 ; third, £150; and so on, until, within ten minutes, it ran up to £2,2G0. Also, a Bible in vellum, printed in gold, four hundred years old, costing £G00. Back to Northampton to dine, passing a charm- ing place — ITarleston House. May 10. — Taking carriage, drive 8 miles to Castle Ashby, Marquis of Northampton \s, a large though not fine house, with lovely Ital- ian and terrace gardens ; charming park, with stately avenue. Back to Northampton to lunch, when, taking train at 2.20, reach Dun- stable, famous for its straw hats and larks ; going to the Bed Lion Inn, where Charles I. slept the niu'ht before the battle of Naseby. Bill and carriage at Northampton, £0 16s. ; rail to Dunstable, 8s 4 4 May 11. — Leave Dunstable by train at 0.1 5 for Hatfield, where walk through the grounds and park of Hatfield House, Marquis of Salis- bury's, once occupied by Queen Elizabeth and Charles I.; a quaint old garden, with pleached 101 15 6 61 \v-<.x~tiii:-!iii.l.] EXGLAXD. [the crow.v. alleys . r tn*. Lion) at 2: a charmingly-situated little Welsh £ 5. watering-place. Walk about the town and 87 13 Bands. Rail from Carmarthen, . . 1 G July 14. — Leave Tenby at 10, with post- horses; driving 5 miles, to Manorbeer Castle, a fine old ruin; then 2 miles farther, to Lamphey, an old ruined palace of the Bishops of St. David's, with an exquisite nmllioned window; and 2 miles beyond, to Pembroke, where lunch, After which, 5 miles, to Staekpole Court, another seat of the Earl of Cawdor's; 2 miles beyond tins, St. Goran's Chapel, in a most desolate fissure in the rocks, once inhabited by a her- mit; 2 miles farther is the Huntsman's Leap and the Caldron or Punch-bowl, an extraor- dinary hole, 200 to 300 feet deep, with the s^a flowing in and out ; 2 miles again beyond this you come to the Stacks, three wonder- ful roclcs, rising one hundred or more feet from the sea, and covered with myriads of a peculiar sea-bird, which from time imme- morial come here, from Russia, to breed. Ten miles back to Pembroke, to dine, and see the castle. Leaving Pembroke at 8 p. u., reach Tenby at 9.30. A very delightful excursion of 46 miles (all round). Dinner at Pembroke, £1 ; carriage and driver, £1 10s., . . . . July 18.— Bill at Tenby, 6 days, . Leave Tenby at 11.30 for Carmarthen, Carmarthen to Strada Florida, rail, . 68 109 10 2 16 15 1 15 1 OSWESTRY. J WALES. [WYN&TAY ARMS. Thence by carriage (18G7) — rail probably now £ s. finished — to Aberystwith at 6 p. m. (Bellevue 109 10 Hotel), 16 Bill at Aberystwith, one week, . . . 15 July 24. — Leaving Aberystwith at 1.05, by train, reach Shrewsbury at 5 (The Raven Inn). A very beautiful journey through a lovely valley. Shrewsbury, a very quaint old town, with a very beautiful walk called " The Quarry." Bill at Shrewsbury, 4 10 July 25. — Leave Shrewsbury at 2.45, by train, reaching Oswestry (Wynstay Arms), an old-fashioned inn, with a bowling-green. July 2G. — Walk or drive 2 miles, to Poking- ton Park, a fine place, with a superb cedar of Lebanon. At 1, in carriage and post-horses, to Brinkinalt, a fine, well-kept place and charming house, belonging to Lord E. Hill, and where the Duke of Wellington used to stay when a boy. After this to Chirk Castle, seat of Colonel Biddulph, founded in 1013, but battered down by Cromwell. In one of the chambers is the bed used by Charles I., and a beautiful cabinet given the family by the king. The quadrangle of the castle is very fine, with Elizabethan win- dows ; and all the old apartments are in admir- able keeping and preservation. Most superb views into 17 counties. Back by 6 to Os- westry. July 27. — Walk or drive 11 miles, to Park nail, perhaps the most extraordinary and ancient old-timbered house in the country; n 129 16 69 LLAXGOLLEX.J WALES. [THE HAND. very curioua old hall, in oak, with a Mack oaken £ s. table, to dine 25, 20 feet long, by G to 8 feet 129 16 wide, made, in 1583, of one plank. The draw- ing-room, dining-room, corridor (with old fam- ily portraits) aH panelled in dark oak, with heavy carved bedsteads and chairs; and an estate of 500 acres. The small diamond windows in great bays, extending the whole width of the different projections, were very curious ; the bouse being on three sides of a square, with a quaint old terrace. From here to an old ruined castle, very picturesque, and beautifully situ- ated, belonging to the De Warrens. Kear by an old village, Wittington, witb its old bouses, and church covered with religious mottoes. Home by Aston Park, to dine. Bill at Oswes- try, 3 days, and 2 carriages, . . . 8 15 July 28. — Leave Oswestry by rail at 10.40, reaching Llangollen at 12.15 (The Hand). "Walk about the town, seeing the curious old carved bouse of the Ladies of Llangollen — Lady Emily Butler and Miss Ponsonby — who lived here together in male costume for forty-odd years. Rail, 1 18 Aug. 1. — "Walk by the banks of the canal to Valle Crucis Abbey, a beautiful ruin quite equal in parts to Tintern. After lunch, drive to "Wynstay, residence of Sir William "Watkins "Wynn, a fine old park with a grand avenue and new house in the French chateau style, the old bouse, with valuable library and pictures, 140 9 10 ludlow.] EXGLAXD. [the feathers. having been burnt in 1858. Walk to the old £ s. castle Dinas, on top of the mountain opposite 140 9 the hotel. Bill at Llangollen, three days, . 7 10 Aug. 2. — Leaving Llangollen at 12, reach Shrewsbury at 1.40, and the quaint old town of Ludlow (The Feathers — most picturesque of inns) at 2.30. Rail, 2 5 After lunch, walk to Ludlow Castle, a splen- did old ruin, though admirably well preserved, most interesting as having been the residence of Edward, Prince of Wales, after his marriage with Catharine of Arragon, subsequently queen of Henry VIII. ; also of the young princes who later were smothered in the tower by their uncle, Richard III. Here, too, Milton wrote his " Comus," which was performed before the court. Over the gate Butler lived, and wrote his " Hudibras." Sir Henry Sydney, father of the famous Sir Philip Sydney, was governor here under Queen Elizabeth. Take it all in all, Ludlow Castle is as interesting a ruin as any in England, from its admirable preservation and the great number of historical characters and events connected with it. Aug. 3. — Taking a carriage at 10.30, drive through the lovely village of Broomfield to Downton Castle, the residence of the late cele- brated horticulturist, Andrew Knight, for many years the president of the London Horti- cultural Society — a beautiful house, charming flower-garden, grand views over a magnificent park. From here to Oakley Park — Lady Mary 150 13 71 KIDDEUMIX^TER.] ENGLAND. [tRE LIOX. Olive's; Buperb trees, and a great estate — all the £ 8. i mbraced from the house; by Oomus Val- 150 13 ley and Haywood, where the scene of the ■• Masque" was laid, and where George Barn- well, the London apprentice, killed his uncle. Home by Moor Park, a fine old place two miles from Ludlow. Carriage, . . . .110 Aug. 4. — Drive again, or walk, to Oakley Park, to see the Druid oaks, said to be 3,000 years old. From here to Downton Hall, Sir Charles Boughton's; beautiful lawn and flower- gardens, and fine extensive views. Bill at Ludlow, three days, and carriage, . . . 5 10 Aug. 5. — Leave Ludlow at 10.30, and, after three changes, reach Kidderminster at 1.10. After lunch at The Lion, drive to Hagley Hall, seat of Lord Lyttleton (Coke on Lyttleton), fine house and grand park ; and to Leasowes, the home of the poet Shenstone. Aug. 6. — Leaving Kidderminster at 11, drive to Stewart Castle, Colonel Foster's, celebrated for the perfection of his stables, eight hunters being kept here, each in a separate box, well ventilated, and heated in winter by hot-water pipes. The saddle-and-harness rooms in most admirable condition— the bits, stirrups, chains, etc., polished as bright as silver. Eighteen horses are kept here, one man for every two horses. From here a few miles beyond to En- ville Hall, Earl of Stamford and Warrington's, the finest ornamental grounds in the world: 157 13 72 KIDDERMINSTER.] EXGLAXB. [klXG's HEAD. 75 acres of mown lawn ; a splendid conserve- £ 8. tory, costing £18,000; four lakes; a purple 157 13 beech, 350 feet in circumference (the branches) ; some horse-chestnuts and limes even larger ; a pinus nobilis, 50 feet high ; taxodium dis- tichum, perhaps 100 feet in circumference on the ground; a Douglas iir, 100 feet high; and endless specimens of cedars of Lebanon, deo- dars and araucarias. Back to Kidderminster by Lea Castle, a charming place, well kept, line trees and grounds. Aug. 7. — Leave Kidderminster at 11 in posting-carriage, 11 miles, for AVhitby Court, Lord Dudley and Ward's. The whole effect of the place very stately, Lord Dudley having spent within a few years £400,000 upon it. The lake is not as fine as that at Trentham. The house, a mixture of Trentham and Bowood, is very grand; the church also very beautiful. The estate here runs 12 miles on each side. The farms are in exceedingly good condition — rented at from 30s. to £2 10s. an acre, and the farmer may double and treble his rent, as each acre usually produces, when well cultivated, from 15 to 25 bushels of wheat. Bill, three days at Kidderminster, and three car- riages, 12 Aug. 8. — Leave Kidderminster at 9.05 by train, reaching Oxford (King's Bead) al 1. Bail, Kidderminster to Oxford, . . . See colleges (before described)^ 171 13 DORKIN...] ENGLAND. [the RED LION. Aug. 9. — Leave Oxford by train, reaching £ s. Dorking (Red lion) at 4.20. Bill at Oxford, 171 18 £2 10; rail to Dorking, £2 10, ...50 Aug. 10. — Walk to Deepdene, the residence of Mr. Hope, the author of " Anastasius," and where Disraeli wrote "Coningshy" — a most beautiful place, and in admirable keeping; 14 acres of dressed ground, and 14 men and 2 boys allowed for the gardens and houses — yet the place has never cost over £800 a year. Few- places in England have more artistic beauty than Deepdene. Aug. 11. — Drive to the Rookery, a quaint old place with terraced flower-garden over a pretty lake ; next to Walton Hall, where Evelyn, author of the celebrated "Sylva," was born and died ; thence to Abinger Hall — Lord Abinger's — a cosy, homeish place, and back by Denbies, a grand mansion on a high hill. Aug. 12. — The Lion Inn at Dorking once belonged to Cardinal Wolsey, and the principal parlor, though covered with paper, is really panelled in oak, and was the cardinal's dining- room. JSTear The Lion is the old inn described by Dickens in the Pickwick Club as The Mar- quis of Granby, where old Tony Weller and Bro- ther Stiggins, the shepherd, lived. After lunch, drive to Juniper Hall, with splendid cedars. Here Miss Burner, authoress of "Evelina,' 1 re- sided ; afterward to Burford Bridge Inn, where Keats, the poet, passed his honeymoon, and . wrote "Endymion;" still farther, by a charm- 176 18 74 DORKixa.] ENGLAND. [the liox. ing drive, through Leatherhead to Pulsden, £ s. which the great Sheridan once owned. Back 176 L8 by 5, to dinner. Bill and carriage at Dorking, G days, 10 10 Aug. 13. — Leave Dorking at 10.30, reaching London at 11.53. Rail, 12 101 J^ote. — This trip could easily be accomplished in 15 to 20 days. Finest Houses ix Exglaxd: Houghton House, Lord Cholraondeley, near Lynn ; Burleigh House, Earl of Exeter, Stamford ; Badminton, Duke of Beau- fort, Bath ; "Wentworth House, Earl Fitzwilliam, Rotherham ; Castle Howard, Earl of Carlisle, Scar- borough ; Blenheim, Duke of Marlborough, Oxford ; Chatsworth, Duke of Devonshire, Edensor. Fixest Places ix Exglaxd : Trentham, Duke of Sutherland, Stoke ; Bowood, Marquis of Lans- downe, Chippenham ; Blenheim, Duke of Marl- borough, Oxford ; Enville, Lord Stamford and Warrington, near Kidderminster (best flower-gar- den in England). Most Ixterestixg Places: Knole, Lord Amherst, Tunbridge; Penshurst, Lord De Lisle, Tunbridge; Haddon Hall, Duke of Rutland, Matlock. Best Collectiox of Trees: Highnam Court, Gambia Parrv, near Gloucester; Redleaf, William Wells, Tunbridge; Deepdene, Mr. Hope, Dorking; Drop- more, Lady Grenville, "Windsor. ENGLAND. Remarkable Places: Levcns Hall, Mrs. Ham- ilton, Bowness ; Biddulph Grange, Mr. Bateman, Congleton; Alton Towers, Lord Shrewsbury, Con- gleton; Studley Royal, Earl Do Grey and Ripon (Fountain's Abbey), Ripon ; Elvaston Castle, Earl of Harrington, Derby. Finest Castles: Windsor; "Warwick; Belvoir; Aln- wiek ; Arundel. Finest Ruins : Ludlow Castle; Raglan Castle; Pem- broke Castle ; Tintern Abbey ; Fountain Abbey ■ Melrose Abbey. T6 FOURTH TOUR. FROM LONDON, TIIROUG-II BELGIUM, HOLLAND, DEN2IA.EX, NORWAY, SWEDEN, RUSSIA, POLAND, AND PEXJSSIA, TO PARIS. June 6. — Leave London by steamer at 5 a. m. from St. Catharine's Docks for Ostend, reaching Ostend at 4 p. m. ; or from London to Dover by rail, thence by steamer to Ostend. Taking- rail at 5.30, reach Bruges at G.10 (Hotel du Commerce). Expenses, £6 10s. June 7. — Taking a valet de place, see the principal churches, cathedral, Hotel de Ville, etc. Leaving Bruges at 12.30 by rail, reach Ghent (Royal) at 1.45 ; after lunch, see the cathedral, with its wonderful pic- ture by the brothers Ten Eyck (for which the King of Prussia offered two million francs), and the convent of the Beguines, where there are nine hundred nuns. June 8. — Leave Ghent by rail at 9.15, reaching Ant- werp (St. Antoine) at 10.30. See the cathedral, with Rnbens's celebrated picture of the "Descent from the Cross," and the " Marriage of St. Catharine ; " also the museum and other churches, famous for their pulpits. June 9. — Leave Antwerp by rail at 10 for Rotter- 77 A.nsTEr.PAM.] HOLLAND. [dolax hotel. dam — two hours by rail and two hours by boat, pass- ing Dort, a 7ei7 picturesque old Dutcli town, and ar- riving at Rotterdam at 3. Drive about the town for an hour ; then, taking rail at 4, reach the Hague (Bejlevue) in forty minutes. June 10. — Drive about the town and to the museum, to see the gallery. Leave the Hague at 2 by rail, reach- ing Amsterdam at 4 (Dolan Hotel) ; see the town, churches, etc. June 11. — By steamer to Brock and back, after which visit the pictures at the Musee, and the palace, as well as Mr. Hope's collection. At the palace is the largest hall in Europe, one hundred feet high, without a sup- port. June 12. — Leave Amsterdam at 8.20 a. m. by rail, reaching Dusseldorf at 2 ; see the pictures, Hopgarten, and Prince Frederick's palace (Hotel Breidenbocker llof). June 18. — Leave Dusseldorf at 8 by train, reaching Hanover at 2. Drive through the old parts of the town, to the beautifully-carved old house of Leibnitz, and to the museum, with many interesting pictures, and through a fine old avenue of limes to the king's summer palace. At Hanover, Royal Hotel. June 14. — Leave Hanover at 9 by rail, reaching Har- burg at 1.30, and Hamburg (Streit's hotel) by carriage at 3. See town, water-square, Jew quarter, etc. Xote. — The above trip through Belgium and Holland is, of course, very brief and imperfect, but may be made as much longer as necessary. It is only mentioned inci- dentally here, as being en route to the north of Europe. 18 COPENHAGEN.] DEX1TARK. [the royal. June 19. — Leave Hamburg at 10 a. m., reaching Altoiia at 10.30, and Kiel at 2.30, where dine and remain until 8 p. m., when, taking steamer, reach Korsoe at 2 a. m. Leaving Korsoe at 7 a. m. by rail, reach Copenhagen (Royal Hotel) at 10.30 ; visit Thor- waldsen's Museum, palace and gardens of Fredericks- burg, with fine views from terrace. June 20. — Drive to the celebrated Deer Park, as fine in sylvan effects and grouping of trees — principally beeches — as any thing in England ; superb single trees and beautiful glades and woods ; lunch at a garden- house in the forest, and drive home at G, by the strand, with pretty villas and gardens overlooking the Swedish coast. June 21. — Walk to Rosenburg Gardens and about the town. June 22. — Leave Copenhagen in steamer at 12, pass- ing Elsinore, and reaching Gottenburg about midnight, stopping an hour to land and take in passengers. June 23. — Still at sea, but about 3 pass into ClirJs- tiania Fiord, the entrance to which, as well as the first approach to Ohristiania, is very striking, though the general course of the Fiord is not unlike the Hudson through the highlands ; reach Ohristiania in broad daylight at 11 p. m. (Victoria Hotel). Note. — The author cannot too strongly recommend all travellers intending to make the tour through Nor- way, to consult Mr. T. Bennett, No. 17, Store Strand- gade, Ohristiania. Mr. Bennett, who is a most courte- ous, amiable, and educated gentleman, and has been g English vice-consul in Norway for many years, 79 OHBimAjriA.] NORWAY. [victokia. can give every traveller all the advice and counsel 9sary for his comfort, being himself the author of a most excellent guide-book through this country, and is prepared to furnish money, carrioles, and every thing necessary for a successful journey. One of the essen- tials in Norway is a complete suit of -water-proof clothes and hat, and an india-rubber cloth to protect the lug- gage from hard rain, to which, in open carrioles, one is constantly exposed. One should never be without a bottle or so of brandy, and a moderate amount of bis- cuit and canned meat, which can be procured at Chris- tiania, and still better at Trondhjem, and which are most valuable at inferior stations. As a general rule, you find at all stations excellent beer, good coffee, and generally fresh salmon, but often nothing else. June 24. — Walk or drive about the town, and to Oscarhalle, with beautiful pictures and views. July 4. — Leave Christiania (four persons and two servants) at 12 by rail to Eishalt, two and a half hours ; then by boat to Lilliehammer, on the Miosen Lake, arriving at 10 p. m., broad daylight (Mrs. Orms- rud's Hotel). Bill at Christiania, one week, and five carriages, £20. July 5. — Leave Lilliehammer in open carriage and three horses at 7 a. m., and a car and one horse with the luggage ; having a most wonderful drive up the Gudbransdalen valley — immense mountains on either side, with the rapid river Logan running through. Af- ter 28 miles' posting, stop at Skjeggestad to dine at 1. Leaving again at 3, reach Yiig at 8 p. m. to sleep. 80 troxdiijem.j JVOIiWAY. [hotel d'axgleterre. Charmingly situated, the river making a great bend round the liouse, backed by superb mountains, with snow-capped tops. July 6. — Leave Viig at 7.30, passing through mag- nificent but very wild and gloomy scenery, and by some wretched huts ; reach Broemhaugen to dine at 1. Leaving here at 3, reach Jerkin in the Dovrefield to sleep, at 10.30 p. m. The last 20 miles above vege- tation, meeting numerous reindeer — 4,000 feet above the level of the sea, passing between two desolate lakes, and no human habitations of any sort for 15 miles. July 7. — Leave Jerkin at 3 p. m., passing over an elevation of 4,500 feet, and then descending with great rapidity on a fast trot and even gallop, having fine views of Sneehatten — the highest mountain in Norway, 8,000 feet. From Kongsvold to Drivstuen — a wonderful drive ; and scenery in grandeur and sublimity equal to the Alps ; a magnificent road the whole distance ; reaching Ny-orne-i-opdal at 9 — a very clean station, where you get the first white bread and excellent beds. July 8. — Leave Ny-orne-i-opdal at 7.30, passing a great ravine, 700 to 1,000 feet deep, and a great deal of grand scenery, and reaching Storen, the railway station, at 2, where dine, and, taking rail at 6, reach Trondhjem (Hotel d'Angleterre), the capital of Nor- .way, at 8.40, after a most wonderful land journey in carriages, or carrioles, of 5 days from Christiania. July 9. — See Trondhjem; the palace and cathedral, where the kings of Norway and Sweden are crowned. July 11. — Leave Trondhjem at p. m. on steamer 81 NORWAY. [at sea. for Hammerfest, the " Nordman " being a very com- fortable boat, with good state-rooms and excellent table, though apt to be overcrowded at this season. Juh/ 12. — Arrive at Namsoe about 5 a. m., where the boat stops an hour, and where passengers go ashore to visit the town ; rest of the day the steamer passes through -wonderful scenery — high, steep moun- tains, sharp and pointed, with thousands of islands. July 13. — Pass the line of the Arctic circle about 4 p. M. Scenery equally wonderful to-day ; rugged sharp mountains, 1,500 to 2,000 feet high, covered with clouds and snow ; quantities of islands, and nu- merous narrow passages hardly wide enough for the boat to pass. At a distance is Torghatten, 1,000 feet high, with a hole through it ; also the Seven Sisters, 4,000 feet high, and Hest Mansoen (Huntsman's Island). About 10 p. :\r. reach Bodo, where disembark for an hour or so ; full daylight, the sun apparently setting about 11 p. m. Great numbers of eider duck in this neighborhood. July 14. — Snow-capped mountains, occasional nar- row passages, and great fiords, all day. July 15. — Reach Tromsoe about 11 p. m. From a hill near the town, the midnight sun can be seen. Many travellers are satisfied to go no farther north, waiting here a week for the return-boat, which usually remains here several hours, enabling the pas- sengers to walk three miles through deep mud an-.] NORWAY. day runs through a magnificent pass cat in the .si«le of tremendous mountains, bordering beantifhl lakes filled with islands. Toward night reach the summit of tho Fille Fjeld, 3,170 fret above the sea, but quite as wild and dreary as the Dovrefield. Above all vegetation, except reindeer-moss and heather. Pass several ssetors, with herds of cows, sheep, and goats, kept here in the summer, and driven in at night round the fires, to keep off the bears and wolves, which abound here. Many herds of reindeer are or were seen crossing the glaciers in many places. Reach Nystuen, on the summit of the Fille Fjeld, at 6; a poor station, where potted meats are indispensable. Aug. 15. — Leave ITystuen at 8.30, in carrioles. An- other magnificent drive through Skogstad, fearfully wild and grand, and Thune to Oilde; stopping here to lunch. In the afternoon through more magnificent scenery, by the banks of the beautiful Strand Fiord, to Fagernaes, to sup and sleep. An excellent station. Aug. 16. — Leave Fagernaes at 8.45 in carrioles. A magnificent drive all day; very lofty mountains, and charming views over lakes; especially the Strand Fiord, filled with beautiful islands. Reach Skoien at 5. Good station. Aug. IT. — Leave Skoien at G.30 a.m., for steamer on Rands Fiord ; driving 2 miles, and leaving in the boat at 8 o'clock, breakfasting on board. Reach the glass- works at end of the lake (50 miles), at 12.30, when in carrioles to Yiig, to dine and sleep. Scenery on lake pretty, but tamer than the usual Norwegian scenery. Aug. 18. — Leave Viig at 9, on horseback, to ascend Krogleven, to the King's and Queen's Views ; the 86 Stockholm.] SWEDL'X. [rydbero ik.tel. former the most exquisite view in Norway. About 11 take carrioles at foot of the mountain, leaving the saddle-horses; and, after a magnificent drive of 3$ Nor- wegian (25 English) miles, reach Christiania at 4 p. m., after nearly 6 weeks' absence, and a cost, for 4 per- sons and 2 servants, of $940 in gold. Aug. 20. — Leave Christiania at 7, in steamer The Excellency Tohl (the best boat), reaching Gottenburg (Gotha Galla Hotel) at midnight. Avg. 21. — A'isit the Botanic Garden — the statues of Gustavus Adolphns and. The Rivals, the latter espe- cially fine. Gottenburg is, perhaps, next to Hamburg, the best-built and. handsomest town in Northern Europe. Aug. 22. — Leave Gottenburg at G in canal-boat by the Gotha Canal, the views on the Gotha River being very pretty and picturesque ; passing the grim old. castle of Bonus, and, by 11, reaching the beautiful falls at Trol- hfettan, where the boat takes 14; hours to get up the wonderful locks, at a toll of S250 (silver dollar-). These falls, the most considerable in Europe in their way. About 2, pass several locks and pretty scenery and country-houses, a large town — YVernsborg, and soon into the Wener Lake, the largest in Europe, 100 by 50 miles, passing, toward night, into very narrow pas- sages, and so again into the canal, sleeping on board boat. Aug. 23. — Leave boat at Toraboda at 7 a. m. ; break- fasting at railway-station, and taking train at 10.3 \ reach Stockholm at 5.30 (Rydberg Hotel, one of the best houses in Europe). Note. — The above route is better than either rail or ■ 87 STOCKHOLM.] SWEDES, [rtdbebg hotel. boat for the entire journey from Gottenburg to Stock- holm, as the one day on the Gotha Canal gives you the falls of Trolhsattan and the prettiest scenery. A "'j. 24. — See the palace, the interior being as fine as any thing abroad, especially the Dresden China Boudoir, where the mirror-frames, chandeliers, and even chairs, were of china. The private apartments of the king are charming, especially his armory, smok- ing-room, and antique tankard room, filled with every variety of Scandinavian tankards and drinking-vessels. The Indian and Chinese rooms, atelier, and bedrooms, ■were very perfect. Visit also the royal stables and church, -where are the bodies of Gustavus Yasa and Charles XII. After lunch at 2, by carriage to the country palace of Prince Oscar, at Bellevue. Also, to the charming summer residence of the king at Rosen- dal, filled with the most quaint and extraordinary things : the Drinkhalle, with 183 cups of delf and glass ; another room, with numerous tankards, plates, and chandeliers of engraved lead. Back to dine at the celebrated cafe in the Deer Garden. Aug. 25. — Take steamer, at 11, up the Malar Lake, to Drottingholm (6 miles), or Queen's Island, belonging to the queen-dowager, a splendid palace; one cham- ber, that of Gustavus Adolphus, of blue and gold, being as ornate and elaborate as it is possible to con- ceive ; the gardens, fountains, clipped trees, and Chi- nese palace, very fine. Back to Stockholm at 4 p. m, Aug. 27. — Take steamer at 8 A. M. up the Malar Lake, reaching, about 12, the wonderful old chateau of Skokloster, built, in 1G30, by the celebrated Wran« 88- crsALA.] SWEDEX. gle family, and now in possession of the Brays, the most noble family in Sweden. There is ao1 in Europe a more peculiar or distinctive chateau than this: a large quadrangle, the galleries filled with very curious and quaint old pictures, and on and over the doors are sentences in Latin, Greek, and other languages. The rooms, which are very large and numerous, have ex- traordinary mantel-pieces of carved and colored wood, and the ceilings with projecting figures as large as life; wonderful old cabinets filled with exquisite glass gob- lets and tankards taken in the Thirty Years' War. The walls, covered with gobelin tapestry, uncommonly fresh and well preserved. Leaving here by another steamer, reach, in 1-J hours, ITpsala, the ancient Scan- dinavian capital, beautifully situated at the end of a narrow river or canal. The cathedral here, built in 1258, is very fine, equal in size and character to any in England. Beneath the altar is buried Linnaeus. The tombs of the great Gustavus Vasa and his two wives are in the Lady Chapel ; so, also, the crown of John III. The university, which is scattered about the town, was founded in 1477, and generally contains 1,400 students, all wearing a white cap, and looking like simple, quiet, hard-working young men. Visit the house of Linnaeus and his Botanic Garden, having quantities of Norway spruces cut into square blocks. Dine and sleep at Upsala. Aug. 28. — Leave Upsala at 8, in steamer down the Malar Lake, in which are some 300 islands, reaching Stockholm at 1.30. Sept. 1. — Leave Stockholm at 2 a. m., in steamer, going on board the night before, for St. Petersburg; 89 6T. PETERSBURG.] RUSSIA. [HOTEL DE BTT88IB. the i across the Baltic often very rough, until you gel among the islands. Beach Abo, in (Julf of Finland, at 5, the first Finnish-Russian town; going ashore for an hour or so, but returning on board Bteamer to sleep. t. 2. — At sea more or less all day, reaching VI- borg at 7 r. m. ; ashore for an hour or so; passing several torts to-day, destroyed by the English during the Crimean War. Sept. 3. — Leaving Viborg early, reach Cronstadt at 3. At 4.30, first view of the golden dome of Isaac's Church and the spire of the Admiralty ; reach St. Petersburg at 5.30 (Hotel de Russie — excellent). Sept. 4. — Drive to the Summer and "Winter Palaces, the Nevskoi Prospekt, the fort, and Isaac's Church, which is most magnificent. Outside, the base and col- umns are of red granite, or porphyry. Inside, one mass of gold, marble, and precious stones; the grand altar being supported by six columns, 50 feet high — four of malachite and two of lapis-lazuli. Sept. 5. — Taking steamer, go to PeterhofF, seeing the splendid golden statues and fountains, equal to Ver- sailles ; the palace and gardens very interesting. Sept. 6. — Leave St. Petersburg at 2.30 in sleeping- carriage, on rail for Moscow — 400 miles — reaching Moscow at 9 next morning (ilme. Billet's Hotel). Sept. 7. — Taking carriage, drive to the Kremlin, where ascend Ivan's Tower, having a wonderful view of 1,500 churches, with their domes — red, blue, yellow, orange, and green, many of them gilded — one of the most remarkable views in the world for a city. After which, drive round the town for two or three hours, 90 MOSCOW.] RUSSIA. [MADAME BILLET'S, Beeing all the palaces, mosques, monasteries, etc., and out to Peterskoi, where Napoleon lived during the conflagration of Moscow. Sept. 8. — To the Kremlin, to see the various churches, filled with gold, pictures, and precious stones — diamonds, pearls, turquoises — many the of a shilling. Subsequently, through the vast collec- tion of robes, mitres, etc., for the patriarch and bish- ops, one mass of the most precious stones, of immense* size, though not well polished. Here, also, are great silver and gold vessels (kettles) for making the holy oil. After lunch, drive to the celebrated monastery of Seminoff, 3 miles from Moscow ; splendid music ; about thirty monks. Sept. 9. — To the Kremlin, seeing the Treasury, con- taining the various arms of the different reigns, the sad- dles, bridles, stirrups, swords, etc., being studded with precious stones — diamonds, rubies, turquoises, emeralds, sapphires, etc. Also the thrones — ivory, gold, and silver, encrusted with diamonds and rubies and im- mense turquoises. The collection of plate, in size, quantity, and shape, passes belief. In one room i- the collection of crowns; that of Alexwitch has 881 dia- mond-, and under the cross an immense ruby. The crown of Peter the Great has 847 diamonds ; that of Catharine L, 2,53G — splendid stones, to which t ho Empress Anne added the largest ruby in the world. The throne of Michael Romanoff has 8,824 fine tur- quoises, many as large as a ton-cent piece, and 1,220 other jewels. After lunch, drive to Sparrow Hill, about 4 miles, where Napoleon, on the 14-th of Sep- tember, 1814, had his first view of Moscow. Tim 91 Moscow. 1 RUSSIA. [mad oje billet's. Opera-House is very superb, with the widest • and largest orchestra in Europe. '. 10. — To the Romanoff Palace, very small, but very characteristic of the early life of the pres< nt royal family before coming to the tin-one. Also to St. Basil's Church, with 11 chapels above and G below. After lunch, to the Foundling Hospital, the most wonderful institution of the sort in the world. Its revenues are 600 to TOO millions of rubles — more than twice the revenue of Prussia; having 10 per cent, on all the- receipts of the theatres, and the monopoly of cards throughout the empire. Since 1st January last (hardly nine months), 7,890 children have been admitted, and 580,000 since its commencement; 25 children daily is the average number left here. The children are all educated to speak four languages; and, if they show ability, become tutors, governesses, music-teachers, etc. Sept. 12. — Leaving Moscow in train at 1.30, reach St. Petersburg at 10 next morning. Sept. 13. — See the Ecole des Mines, filled with pat- terns and models of all the mines in Switzerland, Siberia, etc. ; also the Winter Palace, with many pic- tures of great Paissian battles; also the crown jewels, more magnificent than can well be described — one necklace, with diamonds each as large as a shilling. The throne-room, St. George's Hall, and other halls, superb; 7,000 persons reside here when the emperor comes to town for the season. In this palace is also to be seen the simple, unostentatious little chamber where the Emperor Nicholas died. Sept. 14. — To the Hermitage, which really requires a week to be seen thoroughly. The magnificent collec- 92 ST. PETEP.SBrRCr.] RUSSIA. [HOTEL DE RUSSI3. tion of pictures being almost unsurpassed in any other gallery — Rubens, Vandyck, G-uido, Teniers, etc., a room of each. The works of art, especially marbles, most superb. Exquisite vases, candelabras, tables of malachite, vert-antique, lapis-lazuli, pink and variegated marbles. The collection of antique rings very interest- ing. Afternoon, drive to the great palm-houses and botanic gardens belonging to the Czar (on the Apothe- cary's Island), who pays $45,000 a year for their sup- port. There are 12 houses, very old and shabby, having been built over 30 years ; the plants are very fine and large, the varieties of evergreens being over 3,000, two araucarias, over 35 feet high, costing 81,400. Sept. 10. — By rail to Tzarko Selo, thence by carriage to the palace, the summer residence of the emperor, 14 versts from St. Petersburg; a splendid and curious old palace. The grounds, roads, arrangement of or- namental water, quite English in their character and keeping. Also drive to Paulovsky, the palace of tho Grand-duke Michael. Back to St. Petersburg by 5. Sept. 18. — To the Hermitage again, seeing the splen- did collection of snuff-boxes and objects of Peter the Great, as well as the tools, turning-lathes, and various things made by him; also again revisit the magnificent gallery, especially the Russian Rubens and Vandyck rooms, as well as the Masris, Van Steen, and Teniers collection. Later drive to the Taurida Palace, with its great ballroom, half a mile in circumference, and really lie lutiful gardens. •\ ±2. — Leave St. Petersburg in a c ibinet j culler (carriage on rail), at 1, and, after travelling all 93 WAItSAW ] POLAXD. [HOTEL DE L'EtT.OrE. n i irl 1 1 , breakfast next morning at the station in Wilna, lunching at another station at 2, and reaching Warsaw (Hotel de l'Enrope), at 6 p. m., after 30 hours in train. Sept. 23. — Taking a carriage, drive round the town, Beeing the palaces of the old Polish nobles — the Bobi- eskis, Poniatowskis, Brnhls, etc. ; and out to the summer palace of the emperor, built by the last Polish king — certainly the most charming house, water, and grounds, ever imagined. Just beyond, the Belvidere, the palace of the Grand-duke Constantine. Sept. 25. — Leave Warsaw at 1, by train, changing cars at Bromberg; at Thorn passing the Russian, and at Alexandravitch the Prussian, frontier, and reaching Berlin at G the next morning (Hotel St. Petersburg). Oct. 2. — Leave Berlin at 6 a. m. by train; reach Cologne at 9.30 p. m. ; 403 English miles. Oct. 4. — Leave Cologne (Bellevue Hotel), at 9 a. m., by train; reaching Brussels at 3.30 (Bellevue, a most excellent hotel). Oct. 10. — Leave Brussels by express train, at 9.05 ; reaching Paris (Hotel Bristol) at 5 p. m. Xote. — The entire journey from London, hack to Paris, including Belgium, Holland, Hanover, Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Russia, Poland, Prussia, occupied 4 months and 4 days, and might readily have been accom- plished in 3 months. The entire cost 19,446 francs — say 4,000 dollars in gold — for actual travelling expenses ; and for a party of 4 and 1 servant, and in Norway 2 servants. 94 TOURS THROUGH SICILY AND SPA IX. PARIS TO MALTA, MALTA YIA SICILY, NAPLES, POME, FLORENCE, GENOA, THE COENICHE ROAD, AND SPAIN TO PARIS. Jan. 1. — Leaving Paris at 7 r. m. by train (coupi au lit), reach Marseilles next day at noon (Grand Hotel de Marseilles). Jan. 3. — Leaving Marseilles at 8 a. m. in steamer, reach Malta third afternoon at G p. m. (Dunsford's Hotel). Feb. 20. — Leaving Malta at 5 p. m., reach Syracuse. in Sicily at 4 next morning. Quitting steamer after breakfast, visit the fountains of Arethusa, the museum, the Temples of Minerva and Ceres, the Ear of Diony- sius, etc., returning to steamer at. 11. Reach Catania (Grand Hotel) at 2 ; beautifully situated. Leave steamer here. Feb. 21. — See the town and the grand street A^ictor Emmanuel; by carriage to the magnificent church of the Benedictines, the largest in Sicily; then to tho remains of the Greek Theatre, built before Christ, sai.J to hold 3,000 persons — the amphitheatre of seats and much of the exquisite carved marble in the finest pres- 95 C ATAXIA.] SICIL Y. [GRAXD HOTEL. ervation. After this, to a pretty public garden, with araucarias, palms, aloes, etc., the banks being masses of verbenas, petunias, lobelias, to cover the naked ground, insteaS of grass. In the Botanic Garden are beautiful specimens of araucaria-bidwillii, biota-cana- riensis, taxodium-mucronatum, and casurina-torulosa. Feb. 22. — If clear, the finest view of Mount Etna is from the hotel. Leave Catania by train at 3, reaching Messina at G.40, over a most superb road and through interesting scenery; many towns on top of mountains, and picturesque old castles. At Messina, Hotel Victo- ria excellent. Feb. 23. — "Walk about the town and up the Strada Victor Emmanuel to the Catania Gate. In the after- noon drive to a beautiful view over the city. Feb. 24. — Leave Messina at 8 a. m. in steamer, pass- ing through Scylla and Charybdis, just outside the straits, and by Stromboli, wreathed in volcanic smoke, about 10. At 12 reach Lipari, a picturesque town on top of a mountain, where the boat stops an hour. This is on one of the iEolian isles. At 4 reach Mo- lasso, remaining here four hours, and arriving at Palermo at noon the next day (The Trinacria) ; excel- lent hotel. The passage from Messina to Palermo should, if possible, be always taken by daylight, as it is inexpressibly charming ; the most extraordinary towns, convents, and castles, perched up on top of apparently inaccessible mountains — many in ruins. Palermo itself hardly inferior in situation to Xaples. Feb. 25.— Walk to the English Garden (beautifully situated on the Marina), and to the elaborate Moorish cathedral ; drive to Baida, a deserted monastery, su- 90 talexmo.] slcILY. [trotaobia. perbly situated on a mountain, with magnificent views of Palermo ; from here to the gardens of the Duke of Ragusa, with a well-contrived labyrinth and rustic house, on opening the doors of "which, a monk rushes at you from one and blesses you from another. The place itself a tangled mass of exquisite exotics fall the varieties of palms, yuccas, aloes, araucarias, acacias, casuarinas 20 feet high, india-rubber as large as apple- trees, abutilons, daphnes, evergreens), magnolias, etc., and camphor-trees, through which run walks in every direction. Feb. 20. — Leaving the hotel at 10 a. m., drive in car- riage to Monte Reale, a superb old convent on top of a mountain 5 miles from Palermo, with a wonderful view of the city, sea, and valley ; connected with it is a church, perfectly encrusted and lined with mosaics — one piece of floor lately repaired, some 20x50 feet, cost £4,000. The cloisters here are also very beauti- ful, each column and capital being of different design. The view from the terrace of Monte Reale is perhaps as fine as any thing in Europe. Visit on your way back the Capuchin convent, containing 8,000 dried monks — one who died in 1G00 having his nails, lingers, and tongue, quite perfect. Feb. 27. — Drive in one and a half lours to Bacheria, seeing the wonderful palace of the monsters ; the ave- nues having, at intervals, on parapets and pedestals, the most grotesque figures in stone, of devils, demons, etc.; the interior very magnificent, though in decay; the grand drawing-room, 00 feet square, being ceiled in mirrors, on which were painted various figures; the walls of different-colored porphyry an 1 marbles, with 9 9*7 N.\n .: X.II'I.: [victokia. busts and figures of the family in alto relievo; the floor of marble, alabaster, and porphyry. Another palace hard by, belonging to Prince Biso, had a terrace from Which were exquisite views of Palermo and its bay, and a second hay on the other side of the mountains. The palace of Prince Bouterer also very interesting, with superb views, and having near it a house filled with wax-figures of priests in their different occupa- tions, very well done. Back to Palermo at 5. Feb. 28. — Leaving Palermo at 1 in steamer, reach Naples next morning at G (The Victoria Hotel). March 6. — Leaving Naples by rail at 10.30, reach Rome (Hotel de Borne) at 7 p. m. March 16. — Leaving Rome at 8 p. m. by train {covjie cu lit), reach Florence next morning to breakfast (Hotel de l'Arno). March 22. — Leaving Florence by rail at 10. -15 a. m., reach Pisa at 1.15. Leaving Pisa by a later train at 3.30, reach Leghorn at 4. After dinner at the hotel, take steamer at 8 p. m., arriving at Genoa (Hotel Feder) at 5.30 next morning. After seeing the town, drive a few miles to the Villa Pallavicini, not usually visited by travellers, but more remarkable than any gardens in Italy, or possibly in the world. The estate is kept in order by 20 directors, 8 gardeners, and 30 assistants, the usual pay being 2 to 3 francs a day : you pass from the house on to a superb terrace of white marble, having a very extended view over the city and the Mediterranean, as far as the mountains of Corsica ; below, a series of terraces, with white-marble balus- trades and steps — these terraces bordered by espaliers of oranges and lemons, 20 feet high, and standard 98 GEXOA.] TTJ&CANY. [hotel FEDER. camellias (10 to 20 feet high) of every color, in full flower; these were interspersed with large azaJiaa and rhododendrons, also in hlooin. From the other side of the house you enter (through avenues of laurel and laurestinus, heath in flower 12 to 15 feet high, 8 or 10 varieties of holly) the beautiful Grecian temple in white marble, with exquisite frescos. On the other side of this is a long Italian walk, bordered by vases, and planted with dwarf oranges in fruit, with a back- ground of firs, and terminating in another beautiful temple. From this again you pass through narrow, tortuous walks, to a little rustic cottage, designed to show the contrast between high art and simple Nature. Ascending through dense woods of holly, laurel, Portugal laurel, and sweet bay, surmounted by majestic Italian pines, you come suddenly upon a wild, picturesque fall, the water brought 5 miles, forming a small lake, in which the fish are fed at a cost of $2.50 a day. This walk, with occasional stop- ping-places, indicated by rustic seats, leads to the sum- mit of the mountain, upon which is a ruined tower, with superb views in every direction. Descending the mountain through similar plantations, you come, amidst dense undergrowth of yew and holly, upon some ruins, intended to represent a city destroyed by war — mossy and ivy-grown. A turn in the walk sud- denly brings you in front of a cavern of stalactites, brought at great expense from every part of Italy ; you pass through intense gloom and shadow for some way, presently emerging into a lighter cavern, 30 feet square, the crevices of the rocks overgrown and draped with ivy and parasites, admitting sufficient 99 GENOA.] TUSCANY, [hotel feder. daylight to perceive a large lake, occasionally appear- ing and disappearing between the columns and Avails of the cavern. Your guide now saluting you, says, '■ Addio, signor! I shall again behold you in the Tem- ple of Flora ! " and suddenly leaves you. Presently, in the dim, distant "windings of this mysterious cavern, a gilded boat appears, propelled by a picturesque Charon ; you enter, and, after several minutes of alter- nate light and shade, passing through narrow, gloomy passages, where the dimmest light is only seen, and again into large caverns — luminous through crevices in vaulted roofs of rock, — you suddenly emerge into the bright sun in a beautiful little lake. In the centre is an island, on which stands a most charming and exquisitely-sculptured temple, containing a statue of Diana ; at some little distance, in the water, are four statues of the Tritons. There are several other small islands, connected by Chinese bridges, elaborate in color and gold ; under one you have, from your boat, a most exquisite view of the Mediterranean, some 700 feet below. On another side of this little lake is a charming garden, surrounded by dense, umbrageous plantations of arbutus, oleander, and laurestinus, con- taining a parterre exquisitely laid out and planted in azalias and camellias, of every shade of color : in the midst stands a lovely little temple of purest marble, called the Temple of Flora. Here you disembark, and are again received by your former guide, who informs you that this grotto and lake cost nine hundred thou- sand francs, and occupied four hundred men daily for two years to complete it. Passing a cork-tree, said to be the largest in Italy, you come to a rustic bridge 100 MARSEILLES.] FRANCE. [grand hotel. leading to a summer-house, beyond which is a swing. On crossing the bridge, a loose plank touching a spring covers you with water; running into the rustic-house to get rid of this, you find yourself the centre of four horizontal sheets of water. If you attempt the swing, you are drenched from all the adjacent trees. Return to Genoa at G. March 25. — Leave Genoa at 10 a. m., with vettu- rino and four horses, who, for ten napoleons, delivers you at Nice. "You stop at Oagoletto, the birthplace of Columbus, to lunch, reaching Savonna to dine and sleep about G. March 26. — Leave Savonna at 8.30; reach Oneglia at 5.30 to dine and sleep. March 27. — Leave Oneglia at 9 ; reach Mentone at 5 to dine and sleep. March 28. — Leave Mentone at 8.30, arriving at Nice at 1.30, and, taking rail at 3.20, reach Marseilles at 9.05 p. m. (Grand Hotel). Note. — As the intention of these routes is simply to be a guide through those countries and {daces not so well known as others, all details of what to see in Naples, Home, Florence, Genoa, etc. (with the excep- tion of the account of the Pallavicini Gardens), have been omitted here. In fact, upon this journey the writer merely passed through these cities, having made long visits to them in previous years. March 31. — Leave Marseilles at 11.30, reaching Nismes at 2.25. See the beautiful Maisou Oarree, the Amphitheatre, and the exquisite Jardin de la Fontaine, 101 itOOTFSLLiXB ] FRANi [hotel nevet. with superb fountain and Temple of Diana, etc., after lunch. Leave Nlsmes at 5 ; reaching Montpellier (H6tel Nevet) at 6.50. April 1. — Visit the celebrated Jardin Peyrou, quito the finest in Europe, the water-tower most exquisite, and the equestrian statue of Louis XIV. as fine as that of Marcus Aurelius at Rome. The Botanic Garden, founded by Henry V., in 1598,' very interesting, espe- cially a Cupressus pendula from Japan, and an avenue of clipped Judas-trees. The old Moorish porch of the cathedral, as well as the new Palais de Justice, are very fine. The Musee of Pictures, especially the smaller room, one of the most interesting galleries in the world ; containing 11 Greuses and 11 Tehiers, all in exquisite order. Leave Montpellier by train at 12.50, reaching Oette in 30 minutes; lunching at an excellent buffet. On again by rail at 3, reaching Perpignan at 6.50, where sup. Taking the first Spanish diligence at 10, and driving all night, reaching the Spanish frontier at 3 a. M., where luggage is examined. At 10, reach Geroma, to breakfast, and at 12, taking a train, reach Barcelona (Hotel de 4 XTaciones) at 3.35. April 2. — Visit the cathedral, where the instalment of the Knights of the Golden Fleece took place; very handsome, especially the stained glass, said to be the finest in Spain; the churches, Santa Maria del Mar and Santa Maria del Pino, Casa de la Disputacion, with some fine old Moorish arches. Drive to the Rambla in the evening. April 3. — Leave Barcelona at 8 o'clock (Madrid time), reaching Tarragona at 11.30, a very ancient and Spanish-looking city (Hotel Fonda de Faris.) Visit the 102 VALENCIA.] SPA IX. [FONDA DEL CID. cathedra], the altar being exquisitely finished, as well as the cloisters, said to be the finest in Spain ; all the columns being different; one representing in its carving a cat pursuing some mice — the cat at one portion pre- tending to be dead, is carried off by the mice to be buried, but, presently awakening, attacks the mice right and left. April 4. — Leave Tarragona at 8, by rail for two hours, and by diligence, drawn by six mules, for three hours, passing Tortosa, an ancient Spanish town. Taking a train about 3, reach Valencia (Fonda del Cid), at 9.30 ; passing through a country cultivated like a garden. April 5. — Drive to the old [Moorish palace, now the silk-mart, very characteristic and interesting. In the afternoon to the Glorieta, a beautiful drive, with a charming garden, planted with trimmed box, with standard orange-trees in full blossom; the flower-beds gay with tulips and all the early summer flowers. April G. — Ascend the cathedral, with the finest view in Spain, 260 steps to the top. Taking train at 2.10, reach Alicante at 9.50 (Fonda del Vapor). April 7. — Drive in carriage 4 leagues (2 hours) to the Arab town of Elche, situated in an oasis of palms, most Oriental and Asiatic in appearance, from the palm- and character of the Bedouin-like houses. In the Church of St. Maria is a statue of a virgin, which is held in great reputation — often dressed in expensive gar- ments and jewels, etc. She is even a landed proprietor, having in her possession the finest palms and orchards, called "Iluertos de la Virgen" — the produce goes to pay for her dresses, candles, and the expenses of the 103 r.n:i;.\i.T.\i:.] SPAIN. [CLUBHOUSE. bo lave her in charge. The view from the tower, over this oasis of palms, is very Btrik- AprU 8. — Leave Valencia in steamer at 10 r. m. ; ing the next day, at a distance, Carthagena and other towns on the coast, and reaching Malaga at 3 on morning of the 10th of April (Hotel Victoria). April 10. — Drive a few miles, to a charming count ry- place belonging to Mr. Loring, now Marquis of Caridad, formerly of Boston. The garden beautifully arranged and planted — araucarias, palms, deodars, etc., only 1 1 years old, immense for their age. April 11. — Leave Malaga in steamer at a. m. After a very delightful passage along the coast of Spain, reach Gibraltar at 4.30 p. m. April 12. — See the town. "Walk through the gal- leries in the rock — most extraordinary — 1,400 feet in height — guns in every direction — 700 in all — 6,000 men in garrison, provisioned for 7 years. It is supposed that it is impossible to take Gibraltar, but not impossible for a fleet to run through the straits, only 12 miles wide. In the evening in carriage to Europa Point, a most exquisite drive, not only from the views, but the beau- tiful plants and gardens on the road — the houses with pretty English-cottage effect, geraniums growing wild, and aloes flowering in abundance. April 13. — Leave Gibraltar in steamer at 7 a. m., and after another charming voyage by the coast, reach Cadiz at 4 p. m. ; beautifully situated on a peninsula. The houses all whitewashed, with green and blue verandas. The cleanest city in Spain. (Hotel, Fonda de Paris.) 104 6EVILLE.] SPAIN. [FONDA I)E PA&IS, Note. — From Gibraltar a very plea&nt excursion may be made in two or three hours, across the straits, to Tangier, in Africa; returning next day to Gibraltar. April 14. — Leave Cadiz at 6 a. m., passing Xeres at 8 (where you may stop for a later train), and reach Seville at 10.15 (Fonda de Paris). April 15. — Visit House of Pontius Pilate, supposed to be a copy of the original bouse at Jerusalem — thor- oughly Moorish and Alhambra-like in character, and very beautiful. Afterward to the Musce, to see the Murillos, of which the " St. Thomas giving Alms " is considered the finest; later to the cathedral, by many considered even more interesting than St. Peter's, the stained glass being very beautiful, and the carvings to the two organs most superb. April 16. — To the Church of La Caridad, where are four more Murillos; "Moses striking Water from the Rock" and "The Miracle of the Loaves and Fishes" being considered the finest. After this to the wonder- ful Alcazar, the old palace of the Moorish kings, more perfect in color and restoration than can be easily imagined. April 17. — Some of the festivities of Holy Week, as ■well as the bull-fights, usually commence about this time, and are well worth seeing; the display during Holy Week being even greater than at Pome — in fact, they are of sufficient importance to make it an object to the traveller to visit Seville during this period, though it is apt to be very crowded. April 23. — Leave Seville by train at 10 a. m., reach- CORDOVA.] i/X [FONDA SUISSE. ing Cordova at 1.:'." (Fonda Suisse). After lunch, visit the cathedral, the purest and Lest specimen of Moorish architecture in Spain; nearly 1,000 columns, most superb Moorish arches, with gilded and colored embroidery in plaster. April 24. — Again visit the cathedral, also to "The View," with the old Moorish mill, Roman gates, and Spanish bridge. Taking train at 12, reach Malaga at G.30 p. M. (Hotel Victoria). HI 26. — Leave Malaga in diligence and four mules at 7 a. m., toiling up the mountains for five hours; wonderful views, with the wildest and most dreary scenery ; an elevation of 3,000 feet above Malaga ; reaching Loja to dine and sleep — an old Spanish posa- da, exactly as it was forty years ago, when Mr. Irving slept here, and described it. April 27. — Leaving Loja at 4 a. m. by diligence for railway station, and by train at 5, reach Granada at 8.30, and the Hotel Washington Irving (at the Alham- bra) at 0, to breakfast. Make your first visit to the •Alhambra ; more perfect, delicate, and in better taste, than the Alcazar at Seville, though very much resem- bling it, but not so brilliant in colors ; see the various towers, gardens, and grand views of the Vega and the Sierra Nevada. Note. — The rail being probably now finished (1SG9), it will not be necessary, in coming from Cordova, to go entirely through to Malaga in order to get to Granada ; but one can leave the Cordova and Malaga rail at a point opposite Loja, and thus go entirely through to Granada by rail. 100 THE ALHAMBBA.] SPAIX. [HOTEL WASH. IRVIXO. April 28. — To the Alhambra in the morning, and afterward to the Oertuja, founded by Bruno, with won- derfully rich marbles from the Sierra Nevada, and mosaic tables. April 29. — To the Alhambra in the morning; later to the Gardens of the Generallif, the old summer- palace of the caliphs, beautifully kept up, and the trees (cypress) very curiously trained ; charming roses and beautiful streams of water in every direction. In the palace is a very attractive portrait of Boabdil, the last Moorish king, with a mild and pleasant face, and also of all the Moorish and Christian kings and queens. April 30. — To the royal chapel in the town of Gra- nada, seeing the beautiful tombs of Ferdinand and Isa- bella, also of Philip le Bel and Crazy Jane, his wife, as well as the sword, crown, and sceptre, of Isabella. In the afternoon drive to the spot where Isabella erected a church in commemoration of her escape from the Moors on the capture of Granada, by concealing her- self in a laurel-bush, which still exists. In evening visit at the Alhambra, the towers of the Captive Prin- cess, and the three Princesses Zaida, Zoraida, and Zo- raihaida, so beautifully told by Washington Irving ; also the Mosquita, a little imitation of a Moorish mosque, built by a Spanish colonel. May 3. — Leaving the Alhambra at 4 a. m. by car- riage for the town below, take the diligence and 10 mules, breakfasting at 10 a. m. in a curious old po at Jaen, and arriving at Menzibar at 4.30 r. m. Here dine at station, and, taking rail at 6 r. m., reach Madrid next morning at G.30 (Fonda de Paris). May 4. — Drive round the town and to the magnifi- 107 MADKID.] SPAIN. [FONDA DE PAlUS. cent museum of pictures, wonderfnl in its collection of Murillos and Velasquez ; also to the Armeria, seeing the splendid collection of armor and arms. In the afternoon, drive in the Prado. May 5. — To the Gallery; later, palace and stables, containing 150 splendid horses — some magnificent Andalusians ; hot and cold baths for the horses. In the carriage-houses are nearly 100 carriages, of different styles. In the afternoon to Toledo, returning to Mad- rid next day. May 6. — Taking train at 8.30, reach the. famous Escurial at 10.30. This wonderful combination of palace and mausoleum, built by Philip II. in 1567 (the resting-place of himself, as well as that of his father, Charles V.), cost, it is said, £800,000; contains 1G courts, 40 altars, 1,111 windows inside and 1,560 out- side, 12,000 doors, 15 cloisters, 86 staircases, 3,000 feet of fresco, 89 fountains, and 32 leagues (160 miles) of surface. Nothing can well be more severe or gloomy, especially the little dark cell opening into the church, where Philip died. A portion of the palace, some- times used by the present queen (since driven from the kingdom), is lovely — the walls, doors, and ceilings, exquisitely inlaid in marquetrie ; the tapestry also very wonderful, many of the designs by Teniers being still perfectly fresh. The Casa del Principe is also a charm- ing little palace, the walls and ceilings being exquisitely decorated. Return to Madrid at 8.30 p. m. May 11. — Leave Madrid by train at 3.30, reaching Biarritz at noon next day (Hotel de France). May 13. — Leave Biarritz at 12, reaching Bordeaux (Ilotel de France) at 5.30. 103 tours.] FRANCE. [hotel de l' universe. May 15. — Leave Bordeaux at 9.30 by rail, reaching Tours (Hotel de l'Universe) at 5. Beautiful excursions maybe made from Tours to the great chateaux of Am- broise, Blois, Chaumont, Chambord, etc., etc. May 17. — Leave Tours at 11.30 by rail, reaching Paris (Hotel Bristol) at 4.40. Xote. — The journey from Malta through Sicily anil Spain occupied about three months ; the actual jour- ney through Spain a little over six -weeks, at a cost, for four persons and one servant, of eight thousand francs — say sixteen hundred dollars in gold. 10 109 INDEX. Aak. 84. Aalsund, 84 Abbotst'ord. 17. Aberdeen, 22. AberfeWie, 31. Aberfoil, IS. Abergwili, 67. Aberystwith, 69. Abinger, 74. Abo, 90. Acbnacarry, 20. Aldowrie, 20. Alhambra, 106. Alicante. 103. .Althorp. 61. Altona. 79. Alton Towers, 33. Alum Bay, 51. Ambleside, 14. Ampthill, 55. Amsterdam, 78. Aimesley Hall, 28. Aristey'B Cove, 41. Antwerp. 77. Appcldercombe, 51. Ardeseraig, 19. Arra Force, 16. Arundel Castle, 50. Audley End, 56. Babbicomb, 41. Badminton. 39. Bakewell. 32. Ballycluig, 21. Ballock. 18. Balmoral. 22. B.uiavie. 19. Bangor. 12. Barcelona, 102. Barncluith, 19. Basingstoke, 43. Batb,38. I Beaumaris Castle, 12. [ Bellevue, 88. ! Belmont. 8. Belvoir Castle, 27. Ben Nevis, 19. Bergen, 84. BerPin, 94. Berrv Pomeroy Castle, 41. Biarritz, 108. Bicton. 40. Birnam Wood. 21. Black Rock Castle, 7. Blackwater, 8. Blair Castle, 21. Blaize Castle. 65. Blarney Castle, 7. Blenheim, 52. Bodo, 82. Bonchurch, 51. Bowness, 14. Bordeaux. 108. Borjund, 85. Boston. 27. Boughton House. CO. Bowder Stone. 15. Bowood, 39, 64. Bray. 11. Brighton, 50. Brinkinalt, 69. Brixton. 51. Brcek, 78. Brreuihau^en, 81. Bromham Church, 04. Brother's Lake, 16. Brougham Hall, 16. Bruges. 77. Brussels. 94. Buckingham. 53. Burleigh House, 59, Cadiz, 104. Cadzow, 19. 110 INDEX. Cagoletto, 101. Caflender, is. Cambridge, 5(i. Canterbury, 45. Cappoqtiin, 8. Cardiff-, 07. Craisbrook, 51. Carmarthen, 07. Carnarvon, 12. Carton, 11. Castle Ashby, 61. Castle Howard, 24. Catania. 95. Cawdor Castle, 29. Cette, 102. Chariecote, 36. Chatsworth. 32. Chepstow, 00. Chester. 12. Chichester, 50. Chippingham, 39. Chirk Castle, 69. Cheltenham. 37. Christiania, 79. Christiansimd, 83. Cleifden, 63. Clearwell, 66. Clifton, 65. Clipstone Park, 26. Clumber, ~0. Clyde, lit. Cobham House, 45. Codrington Hall, 39. Cologne, 94. Congletoh, 32. Copenhagen, 79. Cordova,"l00. Cork, 7. Corsbam House, 39. Crinan Canal, lit. Cromwell's Bridge, 9. Cronstadt. 90. Cmok's House. 16. Crummock Lake, 16. Culloden, 20. Cumberland Cavern, 31. Dalkeith, 22. Dawlish, 41. Deene Park, GO. Deepdene, 74. Deer Park. 79. Denbies, 71. Derby, 28. Derwent Water, 13. Devizes, 64, 65. Docray. 16. Dorlshtraorc, 19. Dorking, 74. Dort, 78. Dovrefjeld. 81. Downton Castle, 71. Downton Hall, 72. Dropmore, 62. Drottingholm, 88. Drvburgh, 17. Drvslyhn Castle, 67. Dublin, 11. Dumbarton, 19. Dunoon, 19. Dunstable, 61. Durham, 23. Dusseldorf, 78. Dynevor Castle, 67. East Cowes, 52. Eastgate House, 45. Eaton Hall, 18. Edinburgh, 17, 22. Eide. 84. Eishalt, 80. Elche, 103. Ellen's Isle, 18. Ellery, 15. Elvaeton Castle, 28. Enville Hall, 72. ErlstokePark, C4. Escurial, 108. Fagemres, SO. Farming Woods. 00. FarringYord lion-''. 51. Father Matthew, 8. Fermoy, 8. Fille Fjeld. 86. Florence, 98. Fountain Abbey, 23. Foyers, 20. Freshwater, 51. Gad's-hill House, 45. Gap ot'Dunloe, 10. Gates Grath, 16. Genoa, us. Geroma, 102. Ghent, 77. Giant's Causeway, 12. Gibraltar, 104. Glasgow, 18. Glengarin, 9. Glenquoicb, 21. Ill IXDEX. Gloucester, 38. Golden Grove, 67. Qongane-Barra, 9. Goodrich Castle and Court. 37. Goodwood. 50. Gotha Canal. 87. Gottenbnrg, 79, 87. G<»w-Barrow Park, 1G. Granada, 106. Grand Tully, 21, 22. Grantham, 27. Grassmere, 15. Greenock, 19. Greta Hal!, 16. Gudbransclalen, 80. Gudvangen, 85. Guy's Cliff, 35. Haddon Hall, 31. Ha?g, 85. Hagley, 35,72. Hague, 78. Hamburg, 78. Hamilton Palace, 18. Hammerfest, 82. Hanover, 78. Hardanger Fjord, 84. Harleston, 61. Harrogate, 24. Harrow-on-the-Hill, 62. Hatfield House, 61. Haworth, 25. Heilfoss, 85. Henbury Cottages, 65. Herbert. 10. Hereford. 37. Hesslington Hall. 24. Hest MansOen, 82. Hisrhnam Court. 38. Holkham, 59. Holm Lacev, 37. Holyhead, 12. Honister Pass. 16. Hoole House, 13. Houghton House. 58. Huntsman's Leap, 68. Inchigeelagh, 9. Ingestrie, 34. Innisfallen, 10. Inverlochy Castle, 19. Invergarry Castle, 20. Inverness, 20. Jaen. 107. Jerkin, 81. Juniper Hall, 74. Kate Kearney, 10. Keeiman Eign, 9. Keighley, 25. Kenihvorth, 36. Kenmare, 9. Kerry. 9. Keswick, 15. Kettering, 60. Kidderminster, 72. Kiel, 79. Killarney, 10. Killiecrankie. 21. King's Lynn. 57. Kingstown. 12. Kirkstone. 16. Knolle. 46. Knowsley. 13. KorsOe, 79. Krogleven. 86. Kyle of Bute, 19. Lserdalsoren, 85. Lampbey. 68. Landlilo. 67. Lacock, 39. Lea, 7. Lea Castle. 73. Lea Hurst, 31. Leamington. 35. Leasowes, 72. Leeds. 85. Legerthrait. lo. Leghorn, 98. Leigh, 7. Levens Hall. 14. Lichfield. 35. Lilliehamnier, 80. Limerick. 10. Lincoln. 27. Lipari, 96. Lismore. 8. Liverpool, 13. Llanberris, 12. Llangollen, 70. Locbiel, 20. Loch Katrine. 18. Loch Lochy. 20. Loch Lomond. IS. Loch Ness. 20. Loch Oich, 20. Loja, 106. Longleat. 64. Longmuir. 29. London. 63. 112 INDEX. Lowdore Falls, 16. Lowther Castle, 17. Ludlow. 71. Luscomb. 41. Lyulph's Tower, 13. Macbeth Castle, 20. Macclesfield. 32. Madresfield Court. 37. Madrid. 107. Malaga, 104, 106. Malar Lake, 83. Mallory, 8. Malvern. 37. Mamhead, 41. Manorbeer, 68. Margate, 45. Marlborough, 65. Marquis ofGrauby Iun, 74. Marseilles, 95. Malta, 95. Matterdale, 16. Matlock, 31. Mavnootb, 11. Melrose, IT. Menai Bridge, 12. Meutone, 101. Meuzibar, 107. Menzies, 21. Messina, 96. Middleton Park. 67. Midnight sun, 82. Milton Abbey, 59. Molasso. 96. Molde, 83. Monmouth. 60. Montpellier, 102. Moor Park. 72. Moscow, 90. Mount Etna, 96. Njerodal. 85. Namsoe. 82. Naples, 98. Needles. 51. Newland Vide, 16. Newport, 52. Newstead Abbey, 27. Nice, 101. Nismes, 101. Northampton. 60. Northcourt, 51. Nottingham, 27. Nv-orne-i-npdal, 81. Nystuen, 84 Oakley Park, 71. Oban, 19. Odde, 85. Oilde. 86. Oneglia, 101. Ormein, 84. Osborne 52. Oscarhalle, 80. Ostend,77. O'Sullivan's Cascade, 10. Oswestrv. 69. Oxford, 52, 73. Palermo, 96. Paris, 94. Park Hall. 69. Patterdale, 16. Paulovsky. 93. Pembroke. 68. Penrith, 16. Penryn. 12. Pcnshurst, 47. Perpignan, 102. Perth, 22. Peterborough, 59. Peterhoff, 90. Phoenix Park. 11. Piercefield, 66. Pike. 8. Pisa, 9-i. Plas Newydd, 12. Pokington. 69. Port-mouth. 50. Powerscourt. 11. Prior Park. 40. Palsden, 75. Punch-bowl, 68. Queen stown, 7. Raglan Castle, 66. Raise Gap, 15. Raleigh, 8. Kams^ate. 45. Rands Fiord, 80. Redleaf. 48. Ripon, 23. Rochester, 45. Rome. 98. Romsdalen, 84 Rookery, 74. Rorthrait, 16. Rosenbur-:. 79. Rosendal. 88. Ross, 10, 37. 113 INDEX. Rotherham. 85, Rothesay, 19. Rugbj Ragefy, 84. Rydal, 15. Ryde, 51. Rushton, GO. Salisbury. 42. Bandon, 34. Sandringham, 57. Sarum, 42. Savenack, 65. Savonna, 101. Scarborough, 24. Scylla, 96. Setollers, 16. Seven Sisters, 82. Sbanklin, 51. Sheffield, 25. Sherwood, 26. Shrewsbury. 60. Shugborougu, 34. Skjeggestad, 80. Skjieggefoss, 85. Skoien, 86. Skogstad, 86. Skokloster, 88. Sloperton, 64. Sueehatten. 81. Snowdon, 12. Southam, 38. Southampton, 52. Stackpole Court, 68. Stacks, 68. Stafford. 34. Stalheim, 85. Stamford. 59. Stirling. 17. Stockholm, 87. Stoke, 38. Stoke Pogis. 62. Stonehenge. 42. Stoneleitrh Abbey, 3G. StOren, 81. Stowe, 53. Strada Florida, 68. Stratford. 36. Strathfieldsaye, 43. Stromboli. 96. Studley Royal, 23. St. Albans, 62. St. Gtovan's. 68. St. John's Vale. 16. St. Leonard's, 49. st. Petersburg, 90, 92. Syracuse, 05. , Tangier, 105. Tarragona, 102. Taymouth, 22. Tenby, 67. Thief Fjeld, S3. Therlmere. 15. Thoresby, 26. Threlkeld. 16. Tintern, 66. Tisbury, 42. Tixall, 34. Toledo, 108. Toraboda, 87. Torghatten, 82. Torquay. 41. Tortosa. 103. Tours, 109. Trentham, 33. Trolbsettan, 87. TromsOe. 82. Trondbjem, 80, 83. Trossachs, 18. Troy House. 66. Tunbridge Wells, 46. Ty Gwyri, 67. UlPwater, 16. Ulvic, 84. Upsala, SO. Urquart Castle, 20. Utue, S5. Valencia, 103. Valle Cruris Abbey, 70. VeblunfrsruESset, 84. Veitcli.40. Ventnor. 51. Viborsr, 80. Vik. 84. Villa Pallavicini, OS. Voringfoss. 84 Vbssevangen, 85. Viig, 80. Wardour Castle, 42. Warwick, 35. Watcomb. 41. Welbeck Abbey, 26. Wcntwortb House. 25. West Cowes, 52. 114 IXDEX. Westwell Hall, 27. Wfflersley Hall, 31. Wilton House, 42. Winchester, 43. Windermere, 14. Windsor. 62. Winefield Manor-house, 31. Wuiiaton Hull. 2S. Wolseley Hall, 35 Worcester, 36. Xeres, 105. ' Yarmouth, 51. York. 24. Youglial, 8. 115 THE END. GUIDE-BOOKS PUBLISHED BY D. APPLETON & CO. APPLETOXS' ILLUSTRATED RAILWAY GUIDE: CONTAINING THE TIME-TABLES OF THE RAILWAYS of the United States and the Canada? ; also, ONE HUNDRED RAILWAY MAPS. TOGETHER WITH A Monthly Account of Railways and their Progress, AND ANECDOTES AND INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL. NEW YORK ILLUSTRATED: CONTAINING 48 PICTURES, ENGRAVED IN THE BEST STYLE. 1 vol., Svo. Price, paper covers, 50 cents ; cloth, $1.00. HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN TRAVEL. Xew Edition, Revised and Enlarged. In Three Parts: Part I. Northern and Eastern Tour. Part IT. Western Tour. Part III. Southern Tour. Published separate- ly, and also complete in one volume. n