lARYflc SCARBOROUGH. ocean, and elevated more than three hundred feet above the level of the sea, presenting to the north, the east, and the south, a vast sweep of craggy -perpendicular rocks, totally inaccessible*. Within the castle-walls rises a stately tower, majestic even in ruin. This tower, which has been the Keep, is a square Norman building, ninety feet high, and has former- ly had an embattled parapet. The walls are about twelve feet thick, cased with squared stones ; and the mortar hav- ing been mixed, according to the custom of the ancients, in a fluid state, has become more durable than even the stone of the building. There appears to have been three stories or v-ery lofty rooms, one over another, each room between twenty and thirty feet high, and ten yards square within the walls, with recesses. The remains of a very large fire-place are visible in the lower apartment. The subter- raneous room, or dungeon, is nearly filled up with stones and earth. The different stories have been vaulted, and divided by strong arches ; and private passages are visible * The following extract of a letter to the compiler, will show in what estimation this modern Baite is held by strangers : "Scar- borough is exactly suited to one who loves to look back into the splendour of former times, and who enjoys the sports of nature . there is a fine field in the romantic cliffs of that much-frequented bathing-place. I never enjoyed myself so much as when ram- bling amongst the dangerous paths on the hill next to the sea, whereon is situated the Castle (by-the-by this reminds me, that if you could procure forme a half-crown of Charles I., struck at Scarborough, I should be glad to have it)." SCARBOROUGH. ff in some of the intervals of the casing of the walls. The windows have semicircular arches, supported by round pillars, and are larger than usual in such buildings, being six feet deep and three .feet broad. In turning from the mouldering remains of antiquity, the eye is relieved, and the mind exhilarated by the charms of the surrounding prospect. The diversified scenes of the adjacent country ; the romantic appearance of the town ; the sands enlivened by various objects, and the unbounded view of the ocean, form collectively an assemblage beau- tiful beyond conception. " What does not fade ? The tower, that long hath stood The crush of thunder and the warring winds, Shook by the slow but sure destroyer Time, Now hangs in doubtful ruins o'er it's base : And flinty pyramids, and walls of brass Descend the Babylonian spires are sunk ; Achaia, Rome, and Egypt moulder down.--- Time shakes the stable tyranny of thrones, And tottering empires crush by their own weight : This huge rotundity we tread, grows old ; And all those worlds that roll around the sun : The sun itself shall die ; and ancient night Again involve the desolate abyss." The following are the observations of a Geologist : Few situations on the eastern shores of England enjoy so fine a prospect of grand and beautiful nature as Scar- borough. From the Castle bill, which stands lofty and alone, a variety of noble objects present themselves on 8 SCARBOROUGH. every side ; high and shadowy moorlands on the north, bold hills with abrupt faces to the west, and rocky clifl's stretching southward as far as the eye can reach, all combine in one grand panorama. Perhaps the most strik- ing feature is the range of chalk hills which sweep round from Wilton Beacon, skirt the south side of the vale of Pickering to the sea near Speeton, and running thence to Flamborough, majestically breast the tempestuous ocean. Scarborough presents to those fond of sketching, an imposing object in its Castle, which is worthy of the exer- cise of the pencil of the disciple of a Wouvei-manns or a Mutant. There were formerly here four Convents, four Churches, and two Hospitals ; viz. Convent of the Cistercians, of the Franciscan or Grey Friars, of the Dominican or Black Friars, and of the Carmelite or White Friars. The Church of St. Nicholas, St. Thomas the Martyr, (with the two Hospitals, their appendages, of the same name) and the Churches of the Holy Sepulchre, and St. Mary*. The Corporation of Scarborough consists of two Bailiffs, two Coroners, four Chamberlains, and thirty-six Common Council. It's charter is dated 22d November, 1356, 30th Edwaid III. The election of Representatives to serve in Parliament for the Borough, is vested exclusively in the Corporation, * The ancient view of the town of Scarborough, in the reign of Richard III., from a drawing in the British Museum, lately pub- lished by the Proprietor of this work, shows the situation of these Conveuts. SCARBOROUGH. 9 by a decision of the House of Commons ; an account of the grounds of which determination may be seen in Hinder- well's History of Scarborough. The Arms of the Borough bear the marks of great anti- quity. A Ship of the rudest form, a Watch-tower, and a Star appear on the Common Seal. It's registry in the Herald's Office is without date, and it is there classed among the most ancient. The Bailiffs' Seal of Office is a Ship only, of a very antique form, with two Towers on the deck, and a smaller one at the top of the mast. The maritime situation of Scarborough, and the diversity of soil and aspect in the vicinity, afford an ample field for the investigations of the naturalist. The neighbouring heights produce several of the rare alpine plants ; and the woods near Hackness, a variety of species peculiar to the north : beside these, the shores and the extensive rocks on the coast furnish a long list of marine plants and other natural productions, a catalogue of which (drawn up by W. Travis, Esq. of Scarborough) is appended to Hinder- well's History. For a Treatise on the Minerals and Fossils of the Coast, the reader is referred to the Rev. F. Kendall's Descriptive Catalogue*, in an 8vo. volume, embellished with coloured plates, now out of print, and consequently scarce. Mr. J. Phillips, Lecturer on Geology, who has been for some time resident in Scarborough, has expressed * Published by subscription, in 1816, 8vo. 21s. There were a few copies with extra plates from Sowerby's Mineralogy, at 42s, 10 SCARBOROUGH. his intention of compiling a new Catalogue ; which, from his peculiar study in this branch of natural history, would no doubt prove highly valuable. TRADE. Scarborough, though in possession of a convenient port, has a restricted commerce. The vicinity of sterile moors, and a neighbouring district far from populous, without any water communication with the interior coun- try, present formidable impediments to the spirit of enter- prize. Shipping, and it's dependencies, are the principal branches in which the inhabitants are most generally in- terested. Ship-building forms an important object of em- ployment, and is a great source of emolument ; but it is precarious, and subject to sudden fluctuations. The only manufactures in the place are those imme- diately connected with shipping. There are two of cordage, and one of sail-cloth. The markets are twice in the week, viz. on Thursday and Saturday. They are abundantly sup- plied with excellent provisions of every kind. The commerce of the port is principally confined to ex- ports of Corn, Butter in firkins, Hams, Bacon, and Salt- Fish ; and imports of Coals from Newcastle and Sunder- land ; Timber, Deal, Flax, and Iron from the Baltic ; Brandy and Geneva from Holland ; Wine from Portugal, via Hull ; and Groceries from London. SCARBOROUGH. 1 1 CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. There is no deficiency of sympathetic attention to the miseries of the lower orders of the community in Scar- borough. Frequent collections are made for the poor, par- ticularly in the winters ; and, though a few instances of a penurious disposition may occur, yet there is in general a distinguished liberality of spirit. The establishments of Charitable Institutions have, also, been laudably encouraged ; and it is hoped, that such aa are calculated for the improvement of the morals of the rising generation will ever flourish. THE AMICABLE SOCIETY, consisting of more than 200 Members, for clothing and educating the Children of the Poor of Scarborough, is a very useful institution. It was founded in the year 1729, by the late Robert North, Esq., a gentleman of exemplary piety and benevolence, and is under the government of a President, four Trustees, and four Wardens, annually elected. The Fund for its annual support arises from weekly subscriptions of the Members, collections made in Church*, and other voluntary donations. The children thus clothed, and now in the schools, are seventy-eight. . * Two Charity Sermons are preached in the summer for the benefit of the Children. 12 SCARBOROUGH. Experience has proved the utility of this establishment, in preserving the children from the contagion of vicious ex- amples, and leading them into the paths of holiness and so- cial duty. Instead of becoming victims of profligacy, and pests to the community, many of them have filled useful occupations in life with credit and advantage. Several, by means of the rudiments of their education at this semi- nary, have attained a competent knowledge of Navigation, which has qualified them for mates and commanders of vessels. These have, eventually, become the patrons of the institution, and benefactors to succeeding generations. Others have fought the naval battles of their country, and, by their bravery, contributed to it's security and independ- ence. Whether, therefore, it be considered in a moral or in a political light, it deserves a generous patronage. THE SEAMEN'S HOSPITAL.. was erected in the year 1754, by the Ship- Owners of Scar- borough, for the use of aged and decayed seamen, their wi- dows, and children. It is a neat commodious building, in an airy situation, to the north of the town. The fund for it's maintenance arises from the contribution of sixpence per month, paid by the owner of every ship belonging to the port of Scarborough, for each person on board, during the time the ship is at sea, or in actual service. It is under the direction of a President and Trustees, annually elected, and is subordinate to the Trinity-House, Deptford-Strond. SCARBOROUGH. 13 SEA-BATHING INFIRMARY. To the establishment of a general Sea-Bathing Infir- mary at Margate in 1796, for the use of the diseased poor, we may refer the institution of a similarly praise-worthy institution at Scarborough in the year 1811, of which the Archbishop of York, and the Duke of Leeds, are Patrons ; and the Duchess of Leeds, and Lady Grantham, Patronesses; Earl Fitzwilliam, President ; and Lard Middleton ; G. A. H. Cavendish, M. P. ; tJie Members for the County of York, for the time being ; the Bailiffl fur the Borough of Scar- borough, for the time being ; the Lord Mayor of York, for the time being ; Sir George Cayley, Bart. ; Sir Francis Lindley Wood, Bart.; G. G. V. Vernon, Esq. M. P. ; Robert Chaloner, Esq. M. P. ; Walter Fawkes, Esq. ; William Joseph Denison, Esq. M. P. ; George Johnstone, Esq ; and The Rev. Arch- deacon Wrangham, M. A. F. R. S. Vice- Presidents. Trea- surers, Messrs. Woodall the subterraneous arches extending to the west, and the great quantity of foundation stones discovered in the new burial ground contiguous to it, are sufficient proofs that it is, in the present state, only a small part of a vast edifice which may have formed the Cistercian Abbey and the Church, founded by King Edward II. and suppressed in the reign of Henry V. '' It appears by Leland's ' Itinerary,' that previously to the Reformation, it was a very noble building, adorned with three handsome towers ; two of which were at the western end, and one was over the centre of the transept. There was also a grand arch of gothic architecture in the 20 SCARBOROUGH. Choir, the ruins of which were visible a few years ago, but have since been taken down. The centre (or transept, tower having been greatly shaken during the siege of the Castle in 1644, fell in October, 1659, and considerably injured a great part of the nave of the Church. The pre- sent steeple, which now singularly stands at the eastern end, was erected upon the ruins, and occupies the place of the ancient transept tower. The southern part of the building attached to the nave seems to have, in some degree, escaped the injury sustained by the other parts ; as some of the remains of the chantries are still visible under the arches adjoining the south aisle. These arches are three in number, and have formed the separate chan- tries*, which in the days of superstition were founded by our ancestors, as places of prayer for the souls of the de- ceased. " One of these chantries was founded in the reign of Richard II. and endowed with five houses and five acres of land. " The Bailiffs of Scarborough also erected one, which they dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and endowed it with five pounds per dnnum. " Robert Golan d erected one to the honour of St. James, which he endowed with five pounds per annum, " Robert Rillington founded another, endowed with three pounds per annum. * In these chantries, are basons for holy-water, surmounted by crocketed canopies. SCARBOROUGH. 21 " Many ancient benefactions were made to this Church by the pious inhabitants of the town. " Aylmar de Cliff-land gave liberally to St. Mary's altar, with money for oblations, and three priests to officiate. A toft was bestowed by Osbert de Hansard, A great house on the rock was given by Walter, son of Gun- ner, and money by his brother Richard. Some land, on the Cliff, was granted by William de Harton ; and another parcel, in the town, by Thomas Hardin. " Galfrid de Lutton, and Galfrid de Croom, gave lands to this Church, and also to Kirkstall Abbey*, and Keld- holme Nunnery, " Emera, a beautiful and religious virgin, the daugh- ter of Robert de Filey, in the year 1219, was a liberal be- nefactress. And there appears a long list of inhabitants, too tedious to recite, who were very bountiful to the Church. " During the siege of Scarborough Castle, by Sir John Meldrum, a lodgment was made by his troops in this then extensive church. It's lofty towers, within a very small distance from the castle-gate, enabled them greatly to annoy the defenders : they drew several pieces of artillery into the church by night, formed a masqued bat- tery, and at length opened their fire upon the castle, through the church windows ; those especially, which were on the east side and choir ; the besieged returned their fire in so hot and well-directed a manner, as soon obliged the enemy to abandon their post, but the building suffered much. Near Leeds, now a ruin. 22 SCARBOROUGH. " The desolation which this venerable edifice sustained, during this siege of the Castle, and by the subsequent fall of the transept tower, reduced it to a state of ruin ; and the inhabitants had suffered such a variety of misfortunes by a succession of calamitous events, that they were under the necessity of having recourse to a Brief, in the 12th Charles II. (1660) to enable them to rebuild it. " By the assistance of thus Brief, and other contribu- tions, part of the body of St. Mary's Church, and the tower (as it now stands) were rebuilt in 1669, on the foundation and ruins of the old fabric. " The ancient burial-ground, surrounding the Church, being much crowded, the Corporation purchased a piece of ground contiguous to the west, which was consecrated in 1779. " St. Mary's Church is the sole place of religious wor- ship in Scarborough, where Divine Service is performed according to the ceremonies of the church of England *: but there are other places of worship, belonging to Dissen- ters of different denominations, viz. Independents, in St. Se- pulchre-street ; Baptists, in West-Gate ; Quakers, near Cook's Row; and Roman Catholics, in West- Gate. The Methodists have also a Meeting-house in Church-street. " There are, in the Church, several marble monuments of elegant workmanship, but of modern date. It is also * A grant from government has been lately obtained for the erection of a new church. SCARBOROUGH. 23 ornamented with a handsome organ, erected in 1762, and the fronts of the galleries are inscribed with the benefac- tions which have been made to the poor. Among the most memorable of these, is the following by Sir John Lawson, a celebrated naval commander of the last century : Sir John Lawson, by his will, gave one hundred pounds ; the interest thereof, six pounds per annum, to be paid by the Corporation yearly, on St. Thomas's day, to the poor of Scarborough. " Public worship is performed here twice on the Sun- day, and once on Wednesday and Friday, during the wit- ter ; and in the summer daily. Two sermons are delivered on the Sunday, and one on Wednesday. The communion is administered monthly, and the occasional duty is very considerable. By an early attendance, seats may easily be~ obtained on application to the pew-door openers. Ser- vice in the morning begins at a quarter before eleven, o'clock, and in the afternoon at a quarter after three. Vicar. The Rev. John Kirk, M. A. Curate* The Rev. J. Skelton. " Dissenters' Chapel, commonly called Presbyterian or Independent, was first erected in the year 1703, whereof the Rev. William Hannay became minister, and con- tinued until the year 1725. He was succeeded by the Rev. William Whitaker, who regularly officiated until the year 1773, when through age and infirmities he was 24 SCARBOROUGH. under the necessity of declining the ministry. At that period, the Rev. Samuel Bottomley was invited to suc- ceed him, the congregation then consisting of about thirty stated hearers, and the communicants of about half that number. The novelty, zeal, or ability of the preacher, greatly increased the congregation ; so that, in the year 1774, it was found necessary to rebuild and en- large the place of worship, since which period a farther extension has taken place in the chapel. Public worship is performed five times in the week, viz. three times on the Lord's Day ; and on Tuesday and Thursday evenings : and the communion is administered once in two months. " The Baptist Chapel was built in the year 1776. The Rev. William Hague was the first minister, and may in- deed be called the founder of the Baptists in Scarborough, as there were none of that denomination in this place pre- vious to his first ministry, which was in the year 1766, in a room near the sands. The Rev. Mr. Foster is the present minister. The times of public worship are thrice on the Sabbath-day ; and once on the Monday, Wed- nesday, and Friday evenings. The communion is ad- ministered monthly. " The Methodists first assembled at Scarborough in the year 1757, when they suffered great opposition and persecution ; but they are now permitted to attend their place of divine worship without interruption. Their times of public meeting are, twice on Sunday ; and on the evenings of Monday and Thursday. A Missionary SCARBOROUGH. 25 Prayer-Meeting is held at each of the above-mentioned Chapels in the evenings of the first Monday of each month. " The Quakers date their establishment here from the time of the imprisonment of George Fox, their founder, in Scarborough Castle. Their times of meet- ing are twice on the Sunday, and once on the Wed- nesday." On the 25th of November, 1821, the sect, called the Primitive Methodists, opened a Chapel in St. Sepulchre- street. Tire SPAW SCARBRO " Scarborough boasts A double portion of the healing strength lu her fam'd SPAW, that treasures all it's stores, Where yonder roof, erected on the waves, Grotesquely lurks beneath the pendent cliff." FOSTER. " THE Spaw-house is pleasantly situated on the sea-shore, at the foot of the cliffs, a little to the south of the town. This building was raised to it's present form in the year 1739. The first cistern for collecting the waters was built in 1698. SCARBOROUGH. 27 " These mineral waters have supported their fame nearly two centuries. Dr. Wittie writes that the discovery of their virtues was owing to the following accidental circum- stance : "Mrs. Farrow, an intelligent lady, who lived at Scarbo- rough about the year 1620, sometimes walked along the shore ; and observing the stones over which the water passed to have received a russet colour, and finding it to have an acid taste, different from the common springs, and to receive a purple tincture from galls, thought it probably might have a medical property ; and having therefore made an experiment herself, and persuaded others to do the same, it was found to be efficacious in some complaints, and be- came the usual physic of the inhabitants. It was after- wards in great reputation with the citizens of York, and the gentry of the county ; and at length was so generally re- commended, that several persons of quality came from a great distance to drink it ; preferring it before all the others they had formerly frequented, even the Italian, French, and German Spaws *." A superiiitendant (called the Governor) of the Spaw, ap- pointed by the Corporation, attends to receive the subscrip- tions and to preserve order. The following is a copy of the last Regulations, relative to the Subscriptions, &c. dated June 10, 1822 : " The Nobility and Gentry are respectfully informed, * Dr Wittie on Scarborough waters. 28 SCARBOROUGH. that the Subscriptions to the Waters, Use of the Rooms, and Walks of the Spaw, is either by the Week, or for the Sea- son ; viz. each Subscriber, 2s. 6d. per Week, or 7s. 6d. for the Season ; or a Family Subscription, 7s. 6d, per Week, or 11. Is. for the Season. The Water-servers are entitled to one-half of the weekly Subscriptions, and one-third part of the Subscriptions for the Season. As the whole of the Subscriptions are now rented by the Governor under the sanction of the Bailiffs and Corporation, it is requested that no Lady or Gentleman will send for, or drink, the waters, without subscribing as above. The Subscription to the Newspapers, 2s. per Week, or 5s. for the Season, is entirely optional, and a separate Concern. " In the month of December, 1737, the staith of the Spaw, composed of a large body of stone bound by timber, as a fence against the sea for the security of the Spaw-house, in a most extraordinary manner gave way. A great mass of the cliff, containing near an acre of pasture-land, with the cattle grazing upon it, sunk perpendicularly several yards. As the ground sunk, the earth or sand under the cliff rose on the north and south sides of the staith, out of its natural position, above 100 yards in length ; and was in some places six, and in others seven, yards above it's former le- veJ. The Spaw-wells ascended with the earth or sand ; but so soon as the latter began to rise, the water ceased running into the wells, and for a time seemed to be lost. " The ground thus risen was 26 yards broad ; and the staith, notwithstanding it's immense weight, (computed at SCARBOROUGH. 29 ^463 tons,) rose entire 12 feet higher than its former po- sition, and was forced forward to the sea about 20 yards. ' ' The springs of mineral-waters were, by diligent search, afterwards recovered ; and the staith being repaired, the Spaw continued in great reputation. " The celebrated DICKY DICKINSON, an original charac- ter, was at the above period the Governor of the Spaw. His person was, in the highest degree, deformed ; but he pos- sessed an uncommon brilliancy of wit, and considerable in- genuity*. " The annexed lines were composed in honour of the vi- vacity of his talents : " Samos unenvied boasts her yEsop gone, And France may glory in her late Scarron, While England lias a living Dickinson." The following is the account of the Wells, compiled by Dr. Belcombe, formerly resident in Scarborough : " The first well on descending the steps is the chalybeate water, sometimes called the North-well ; and near it the salt or South-well. From both wells the water is perfectly clear, of a bluish cast, sometimes sparkling ; has not a very disagreeable taste, or the least unpleasant smell. Although the North-well has been called the chalybeate, it is found * As DICKY was once sitting on his bench at the Spaw, a lady placed herself near him, and said, jokingly, I think I should like you for a husband : indeed, replied this original character, I should not like you for a wife. Why ? said she. Because you are too much like our clock. How is that > Too forward. 30 SCARBOROUGH. not to hold much more iron in solution than the other ; but containing much less vitriolated magnesia, it's taste is stronger, or more inky. The taste of the North-well water re brisk, and not disagreeably saline. When suffered to stand in an open vessel exposed to the sun, or in a warm room, the sides of the vessel are soon covered with air- bubbles, and the water becomes somewhat turbid : in a day or two, it deposits a little yellow or orange-coloured sediment. The water then grows clear again ; and if suf- fered to stand lightly covered for some weeks, a thin skim or pellicle forms upon the surface, and under it a number of beautiful crystals, which on the least motion fall to the bot- tom. Phenomena nearly similar may be observed in the North-well water, except that few or no crystals form by this spontaneous evaporation. These crystals are vitrio- jated magnesia. It is said that the waters from both wells, on being kept for some time corked, will become foetid ; and, on being again exposed to the air, will recover it's former purity. " Much of the orange-colour sediment is observed in all the channels near the Spaw ; and it sometimes comes down the pipes, which conduct the water, in considerable quanti- ties : this the water-servers call the coming down of the mineral. It is chiefly carbonate of iron and carbonate of lime. The temperature of these springs varies very little ; which is considered as a proof that they rise at a considerable depth in the earth. The thermometer generally stands at 45 deg. in the North-well water, when it is at 32 deg. (or SCARBOROUGH. .'{1 freezing) in the open air. In the South-well water, it is commonly half a degree higher. I have seldom seen it more than 46 deg. or 46 deg. 5 min. even in summer. The specific gravity of the South- well water is 10038,06 ; of the North-well water, 10033,23 ; of the sea-water, 10270,54 ; distilled water being considered as 10000. " From remote ages mineral waters have been considered as very efficacious medicines in almost all those diseases which have not yielded to the use of other remedies, and not unfrequently as instances of God's peculiar goodness to his creatures ; consequently, their effects have been esteemed miraculous. So prone is human nature to super- stition, and so apt to attribute to the partial interposition of the Deity the effect of general laws which it's finite reason does not comprehend ! Scepticism commonly succeeds su- perstition ; and, accordingly, it is now the mode with some physicians to regard mineral waters as remedies of little value. " The surprising advances which Chemistry has made within a very few years, by enabling men to ascertain with accuracy the contents of mineral waters, has (it is true) also enabled them to judge more correctly of their probable effects, and consequently rendered them less liable than formerly to imposition from supposed cures, which may have been the effects of other unnoticed circumstances ; but until they can explain more satisfactorily than at present the way in which medicines act, they ought not to descry the valu- able effects which experience informs us are frequently 32 SCARBOROUGH. produced by small quantities of mineral substances diffused through large portions of pure water. Chemistry has, also enabled them to imitate the mineral waters with consider- able success ; but it has been found extremely difficult to make the waters as agreeable and pure as at the fountain. " The general effect of the South-well water, when drank in a sufficient quantity, is to act gently upon the bowels and kidneys, and sometimes on both, but without harassing or fatiguing; on the contrary, it strengthens and exhila- rates. It is serviceable in debility and relaxations of the sto- mach, in nervous disorders, scurvy, struma or swelled glands, chlorosis, and particular weaknesses. I have found it very useful in a variety of chronic complaints, attended by habi- tual costiveness. These complaints are often accompanied by some degree of jaundice, or are frequently subsequent to it, to a sedentary life, to long-continued and painful affections of the mind, to long and tedious illness, to agues, to residence in hot cli- mates, and sometimes to intemperance. In such cases, I have known a small glass of this water, repeated every day for some time, produce the most desired and permanent effect ; even when very powerful medicines have not been found to answer, or only to afford temporary relief. Most commonly, however, two, three, or even four half pints, taken at proper intervals, and repeated daily, are required; although no very great constipation may have preceded. " Some diseases of the stomach, as I have already ob- served, are much relieved by this water, others are in- SCARBOROUGH. 33 creased by it's use ; especially all those proceeding from long continued intemperance : but the sickness arising from occasional excess is often wonderfully relieved by a glass or two of this water. It sometimes affords relief in the gravel, as well as in several pains of the loins, whose seat seems to be in the kidneys, although they are gene- rally called rheumatic. Disorders commonly comprehended under the appellation of scurvy, as pimples, red face, eruption* in various parts of the body ; rotighness of the skin, or scurf, &c. are often cured by a long continued use of theSouth-well water. Some remarkable instances of this kind have come to my knowledge, both of the inhabitants of the town, and of strangers. In these disorders as much water should be drank daily, at proper intervals, as will produce some sen- sible effect upon the bowels : sometimes a single glass, even of the smallest size, will be sufficient; but when three or four half pints are not found to answer, it is better to add a little Scarborough salt, or drink a glass of sea-water, than to increase the quantity. " The Chalybeate, or North-well, water has little or no opening property. It braces, and generally passes off by urine. Hence it is preferable, in most of those complaints in which the bowels will not bear the South-well water. In all cases of general weakness and relaxation, it's virtues are acknowledged ; and I observe that the water-servers gene- rally recommend it to the delicate of their own sex, and I believe with good success. This water is however apt to heat, and sometimes sits heavy. This may be prevented 34 SCARBOROUGH. by the means hereafter mentioned, or by taking a glass of the South-well water at the same time. " The North-well water is peculiarly useful in a variety of nervous cases, particularly those consequent to confine- ment, dissipation, and a town-life, where the bowels require no assistance. It is, likewise, serviceable in those very nu- merous cases which occur to females at that time of life, when the growth seems disproportionate to the strength. This complaint is mostly distinguished by a pale complexion , depraved appetite, weariness and pains in the limbs, palpita- tions, &c. " To reap any material advantage, these waters must be drank at the fountain : for as their virtues in some measure depend upon an elastic fluid or gas, which quickly escapes from the water, they must necessarily lose some of their properties by being transported to any distance. This circumstance, although of importance, is not much at- tended to, except by a few who have already experienced the advantage of it. The custom, therefore, of sending for the water to the Lodging-houses ought as much As possible to be avoided ; more particularly as some exercise should be taken between each glass, to assist it's effect. " Jn all cases, where the patient is able, walking is pre- ferable to every other exercise ; next, riding on horseback ; and, last of all, in the carriage. The best time for drinking the waters is before breakfast ; but some persons cannot bear the coolness of these waters fasting ; in which case they may conveniently be drank about two hours after SCARBOROUGH. 35 breakfast. When they sit heavy, or when the stomach is delicate, they are sometimes drank a little warm. By this practice their virtues are diminished. The addition of a tea-spoonful of brandy, tincture of cardamoms, or ether, &c. is preferable. The dose cannot be ascertained but by trial. " Those who bathe and drink the water the same day, generally bathe first. And this seems a proper precaution, in particular for such as are delicate, who ought indeed rather to bathe and drink the waters on alternate days. Those who are robust will sometimes drink the waters on the same day, both before and after bathing. Every year> how- ever, gives some instance, that both bathing and drinking the waters are practised incautiously ; often in diseases in which they are improper." The late William Hutton, F.S. A., in his " Tour to Scar- borough," notices the great benefits which the drinking of these waters and bathing effected upon his daughter, in the following words : " My daughter's complaint was a nervous asthma of some standing, from taking cold. We visited Scarborough as the last resort. She stayed eleven weeks, rode on horse- back every day, bathe' d ; 'every second, and drank the water three times each day. " About four weeks elapsed before any change was ap- parent, when her breathing, activity, and strength, began gradually to return, and' nature seemed approaching to- ward Her' former tone ; and, though not perfect, I have 36 SCARBOROUGH. hopes that it will tend to preserve that life which I value more than my own." The following, from the York Chronicle, may here be appropriately introduced : " Scarborough, Feb. 8, 1825. Some of the highest and strongest tides that have been experienced at Scarborough for these fifty years, occurred there on Thursday and Friday evenings hast, marking their progress with desolation to vessels on the stocks, and to the projecting erection which guarded the Spaw ; which it has dilapidated in a deplorable manner, washing away the stones of immense weight which bounded that receptacle of health, and carrying them and the platform, " shivering in their playful spray," to a con- siderable distance. The shore on Friday morning pre- sented an aweful spectacle of the spoils of vessel*, bathing- machines, and the wreck (but not total) of the Spaw. Like some other calamities, we hope it will ultimately prove beneficial to the elegance of this fashionable place, in the ornamental improvements which may take place in the new erection of the despoiled portion of this nobly situated plat- form." THE TOWN HALL is a commodious building in Long-Room Street, where the sessions are held, and all business connected with the town transacted. In the Council-room is a fine portrait, by J. Jackson, R. A. of Mr. Bartholomew Johnson, of Scar- borough, a highly-respected musical character, who com- SCARBOROUGH. 37 pleted his 100th year, on the 3d October, 1810. Thia event, so highly interesting to all who knew him, was cele- brated by a Jubilee dinner, and musical performances, at the Freemasons' Hall in Scarborough. The selections of vocal music were well adapted to the occasion ; and his musical friends here, assisted by the principal choristers from York Cathedral, afforded the company much gratifi- cation. About ten o'clock at night the good old man bore a part in a quartet, by performing on the violoncello the bass to a minuet, which he himself composed upwards of sixty years ago. Several poetical compositions, from the classical pens of the Rev. Archdeacon Wrangham, Thomas llinderwell, Esq. &c. were sung and recited with great applause *. THE THEATRE, situated in Tanner-Street, has been lately newly painted and tastefully embellished, and presents a coupd'ceil at once chaste and effective. The boxes, unlike those in the gene- rality of Theatres, are not separated by partitions, but freely displayed in one elevated open space. It's boards have been graced by the acting of some of the most popular of the London performers. The late Mr. Stephen Kemble possessed the Theatre for a series of years, and occasion- ally enacted some of his most celebrated characters f. It * For a full account of this Jubilee, see The Gentleman's Mag. vol. 80, p. 2. t In Cunningham's (the pastoral poet) Poems, appears a Fro- 38 SCARBOROUGH. usually opens about the middle of July, and closes in October. The prices of admission are Boxes, 3s. ; Pit, 2*. ; and Gallery, Is. There are two fashionable nights in the course of each week; CUSTOMS. It is usual for visitants shortly after their arrival to sub- scribe to the Rooms, the Spaw, and Libraries, and take a course of the exhilarations which they respectively afford. i Early morning is appropriated for bathing and drinking the waters, mid-day for walking the sands, shopping, lounging at the libraries, or taking one of the drives in the romantic environs. After dinner a general muster is ap- parent on the Cliff and Spaw terraces, Beach, and different parts of the town and Castle-hill ; or the Theatre is visited, the lecture attended, the assembly graced. " BATHING. . The Sea and the Spaw generally afford engagements hich engross .the first attention, and fill up the earlier part ! of each morning ; for to bathe, and drink the waters, are mostly recommended before breakfast. The beautiful form of Scarborough Beach, is at an early hour enlivened by the confused but entertaining dispersion of bathing machines, Scattered on it's verge, while the sun slopes it's early logue, spoken at Scarborough : as the author was an actor, we may presume be, at that period, figured on the Scarborough stage. SCARBOROUGH. $9 beams upon them, as they are drawn to and from the sea. There are about forty commodious bathing-machines, which belong to different proprietors. Two women attend each lady who bathes, as guides ; and one man, every gen- tleman who requires it. A boy attends with a horse, to draw the machine to and from the water ; which is drawn to any depth the bather pleases. The regular price for bathing is one shilling each time. TRAVIS'S BATHS ON THE CLIFF. This establishment was originally opened in 1798 ; since which time, it has undergone several improvements : in 1822 it was rebuilt, and the interior fitted up with every attention to comfort and elegance. The BATHS are in WOOD or MARBLE, and are varied as to form, being adapt- ed either for plunging, or for the erect or horizontal posi- tion. They admit of every variety of temperature, and are supplied every tide with the THE PUREST SEA-WATER. Here likewise are Shower-baths and warm pumping on an improved principle, affording every degree of force and temperature. A room is also fitted up for Steam and Vapour Baths ; and no expense has been spared to render the establishment equal to any in the kingdom. HARLAND'S BATHS. These BATHS are delightfully situated in the New Road, at the bottom of Huntriss'-Row, combining in that situa- tion as much as possible, privacy with convenience, to- 4O SCARBOROUGH. gether with the advantage of receiving with facility, a con- stant supply of the purest SEA WATER, from the southern shore. The interior of the Baths is constructed on a plan entirely new, the rooms are elegantly fitted up, and the apparatus on the most philosophical principles. One of the Baths has been constructed for bathing in the erect or sitting position, for those who are not able to bear the horizontal. There has also lately been erected an elegant little build- ing contiguous to the original edifice, containing a plunge Bath, of size sufficient to admit of all the advantages of Sea- bathing ; intended chiefly for those who, from delicacy of constitution or other causes, are prevented from bathing in the open sea. Also, an additional Shower-bath upon an improved principle, by which the height, force, rapid suc- cession, or number of showers, may be readily adapted to each particular case. In the fitting-up of these Baths no expense has been spared either with regard to orna- ment or utility. * WARM AND SHOWER BATHS, NEAR THE PIERS, SCARBOROUGH. - - These Baths possess exclusive advantages ; they are sup- plied with water of the purest quality, pumped immediately from the Sea, at a situation remote from the drains and other impurities of the town ; and advantage is constantly taken of flowing tides to obtain it of the greatest possible strength and efficacy. SCARBOROUGH. 41 Terms* A Warm Bath, 2s. 6d. and 6d. the attendant. A Shower Bath, Is. 6d. and 6d. the attendant. CHAMPLEY'S NEW BATHS, situated in Mr. Coctarill's Garden, central between the Cliff and Brunswick Terrace, constructed on a plan entirely new, in which privacy and elegance are combined, and on a scale of magnitude hitherto unattempted in Scarborough. One suite of rooms appropriated for the use of Ladies, and another for that of Gentlemen. Orders received at the Baths, and by J. Champley, Chemist, &c. at his shop, opposite the New Inn, Newborough- Street. MEDICAL MEN. Dr. Thompson, without the Gates ; Dr. Harland, Messrs. Travis and Dunn, Newborough-Street ; Mr. Weddell, Queen-Street ; Mr. Willis, Merchants'- Row. AMUSEMENTS. After breakfast, the usual avocations of all public places here also succeed in their turn as fancy may lead, or conve- nience direct. Morning parties for country rides, sally forth with their gay and lively trains, in pursuit of health or amuse- ment ; returning for the most part, gratified by a compe- tent share of both. When the tide permits, about noon, as many as wish to enjoy, to the utmost, every breeze of sea air, parade the sandy beach, and compose one of the most 42 SCARBOROUGH. cheerful medleys. The warmest conception would perhaps be inadequate to the beauty and the liveliness which the sands then display. Splendid chariots, towering phaetons, and parties on horseback, vary the scene : thus, each pursues the most eligible or convenient method of enjoying the salutary exhalation, and takes sea water in at every breath. Added to this, is a rich assemblage of fixed objects ; the semi-circle of a sloping town, and all its motley-coloured houses, church, and castle, which spread out an uncom- monly fine back-ground ; while the sea opens to the S. E. a boundless expanse, sometimes adorned by passing fleets, or many a sail of straggling ships, coasting along : the eye seems never tired with such a view ; which it is as difficult to describe justly, as to quit without reluctance. The usual dinner-hour at Scarborough is four : about seven, the cliff- promenade, the beach, and plantation- walk, are thronged with groups of pedestrians. There scarcely can be two sea rides so near eaeh other, as the north sands, and those below Scarborough cliff, more agreeably contrasted. We would much recommend the north sands, to those unable, or disinclined to mix in the gay morning throng, when they take the sea air. The ASSEMBLY ROOMS, at Donner's Hotel, in Long-Room Street, are commodious and well adapted for the purpose ; but the company who resort here appear to prefer other amusements to dancing, consequently our assemblies are but thinly attended. The company at Mrs. Hodgens's Board- ing House frequently " trip it on the light fantastic toe," in SCARBOROUGH. 43 an evening, when other modes of entertainment fail of suc- cess. While on this subject, we cannot resist the opportunity of recommending to notice a custom, which we regret is al- most peculiar to the city of Lincoln, which is, the frequent holding of subscription meetings, under the name of chari- table assemblies. When any inhabitant, of good character, is overtaken by sudden misfortune, any respectable widow burdened with a number of children, or aged man incapable of providing for his own support ; some leading lady or gentleman steps forward, and solicits, by public invitation, the company of the charitable at an assembly for the benefit of the sufferer. Every repectable individual thinks himself bound in honour to attend, and, on entering the room, gives what he pleases to the patroness or patron of the meeting, who collects the subscriptions. The generous soli- citors are considered as treasurers, paying out of the fund the expenses of the assembly, and presenting the overplus in such periodical sums as they think proper, to the object of that evening's charity. The subscription is always suffi- ciently large to relieve the distressed persons. Eight or nine of these assemblies are sometimes made in a year, and produce a sum, (thus voluntarily given to objects who, otherwise, must either have been starved, or at least solely supported by their respective parishes) at the average of almost four hundred per annum * ." * Those who wish for farther information on the subject, are referred to the History of Lincoln, published by the proprietor of this work. 44 SCARBOROUGH. The following valuable Observations are Eiiracts from a very useful little book, entitled " The Perambulator's Guide to the Scarborough Sands," for which we are indebted to Mr. John Bleckly, of York. IT should be observed, that as the time of high water as well as the height of the tide is varying every day, your arrangements both for walking and riding upon the sand, as well as for bathing or going upon the sea, should all of them in some sort be regulated by it. Thus, if you propose to walk to the Nab * before dinner, you should take a day when it is high water between seven and eight o'clock, and commence your walk about ten, after which there will be three hours of falling tide, and three hours after that of rising water, in which you may return upon the same walk- ing ground. This rule will apply to the North as well as to the South Sands, and indeed ought to be uniformly observed when- ever you propose to take a long walk by the sea-side ; more especially on the approach of evening. On every occa- sion of this soit, you should take care that the time of high water be not earlier than one, nor later than three o'clock in the afternoon ; for under either of these circumstances it will not be low water sooner than from six to eight, which will always leave you in possession of good walking ground, and a broad field view under the shadows of the * The Nab is a point projecting into the Sea, about a mile from the Spaw, in the direct road to Carnelian Bay. SCARBOROUGH. 45 evening, ere the curtain of night closes upon all the sur- rounding objects. It may be proper in this place to state, that two days after the new and the full moon, when the tides are at the highest, they fall as much below, as they rise above their ordinary places, and that consequently the run of water is accelerated and increased as much as the difference between high and low-water mark at the neap and at the spring tides. This circumstance is mentioned that strangers may not only be upon their guard, but avail themselves of every opportunity to inspect the coast, and behold, under all the advantages of light and shade, the splendid scenery. The next subject which presses upon your notice, is the alternately tranquil and agitated state of the sea, arising solely from the influence of the tide ; for it will be found, when there is but little wind, that the waters are in a state of equilibrium for about an hour, at the period of both high and low water; and that as the tide begins gradually to recede or advance, the pouting Upper soon becomes a restless wave. This circumstance will naturally suggest to those who intend to bathe, and are not very partial to a boisterous sea, that their convenience and their comfort may be easily consulted, and that the fears and the tears of children in particular, may be greatly abated. It is also deserving the attention of all who intend to bathe, that a rising water is always to be preferred, and if within an hour or two of high water, the better. The first part of these observations are equally applicable to those who in- 46 SCARBOROUGH. tend to go upon the sea ; and if attended to, may be made productive of high gratification and benefit to many, -who would otherwise never dare to venture upon the unstable element ; but, for the convenience of such, it should be remembered, that with a serene sky, as soon as the tide is half flood, or within three hours of high water, the waves will gradually subside into a perfect calm. The parties may then take an excursion for an hour or two upon smooth water, and return with the natural impulse of a flowing tide. To those who are indifferent to this consideration, to say no more of it, it would always be a matter of conve- nience and sound policy to go to sea within an hour or two before or after low water, according to the length of time they purpose to stay out, ever bearing in mind, that it is easier to return with than against the tide. These remarks will also be serviceable to those who are fond of Fishing, where they are provided with good tackle, plenty of fresh bait, and a full supply of patience : clear water is not always .the most favourable for the diversion, although smooth water is more agreeable to inland fishermen. You should observe that proper bait of some kinds is t>nly to be obtained ,at low water, and that it is always safest to be your own marketman, to prevent disappoint- ment at the time of embarkation. The best chance of suc- cess in fishing from the Pier-head is to commence about two hours after low water, and if the wind be favourable, the fish in the season, on their way into the harbour, will bite very freely. SCARBOROUGH. 47 THE TOWN NEWS-ROOM AND LIBRARY are situated on the verge of the cliff, at the bottom of King- Street. Strangers, as well as residents, have access to the news-room ; the subscription for the season being 10s. 6d. The library is a permanent one, and being established as well by gentlemen in the country, as those in the town, has received the appellation of The Agricultural Library. A room for billiards is also attached to this building. . The governor of the Spaw takes in newspapers at his rooms on the Spaw terrace ; one of which rooms is devoted to the use of the ladies, and the other to the gentlemen. The subscription is 5s. per month. There is too a Sub- scription News-Room at Cole's Library. Those visitants who wish to receive papers at their lodg- ings, may have them ordered on application at the Libraries. Besides this general library, a society for periodical Literature has been formed at Cole's, bookseller, in which almost every Magazine and Review which issues from the press, is taken. Amongst the curiosities of the town, independently of it's own bold and varied charms, may be mentioned the Museums of Thomas Hinderwell, Esq., aad Mr. Bean ; the 48 SCARBOROUGH. latter of which is particularly rich in British shells, form- ing one of the most complete collections in the kingdom. The Proprietors will readily show their respective Museums to Visitants, on being properly introduced. Minerals and Fossils are pretty plentifully strewed over this coast, and the search for them forms many a morning's amusement*. There is an interesting page or two on this subject in " Prose by a Poet." The following observations on a crustaceans animal, found by Mr. Dunn in the Castle-hill, in grey earth, contempo- raneous with Oxford clay, beneath calcareous grit, were made by Mr. J. Phillips, Geologist : " The first specimen with entire arms which has fallen -under my notice ; and the first hitherto discovered in the Oxford clay formation. " As far as I know, the lowest stratum in which crusta- ceous animals have been found, is the inferior oolite ; they are not scarce in the superior strata, particularly in the London clay. A few more of these discoveries will shew that such animals have existed during the formation of all the intermediate rocks." * Parties who wish to devote much time to these excursions, may be supplied with a Guide to direct them to the best situations, an application at Cole's Library. COLE'S JdlBB. " If you for reading feel inclin'd, A store of books to suit your mind At COLE'S deposit'ry you will find." BISSET. THIS prominent and conspicuous building is situated at the upper end of Newborough*, at the corner of Tanner-Street, An interior view is given in the " Poetical Sketches of Scar- borough," accompanied by the following lines :--- SO SCARBOROUGH. fronting Long-Room Street, and projecting considerably beyond the opposite side of Tanner-Street, commands a pleasing view down Newborough, which is handsome, wide, and well built, " striking the traveller with an agreeable idea of comfort and improvement. It's ground plat, on a gradual descent, is nearly a thousand feet in length, and mostly about fifty wide. The houses have a modern and cheerful air, and are chiefly built of brick. A very excel- lent pavement, about nine feet wide, on each side, most usefully adorns the whole." *The second opening on the left, exhibits Queen Street, which is wide and handsome, .chiefly occupied by genteel families. From the Library, which is considerably elevated, an extensive view not only of the town, but also of the Castle, " Now Literature no more appals, Immur'd 'midst gloom of cloistered walls, But with a winning grace unbends To treat us all like common friends ; And readily her store supplies, To make men good, and great, and wise. Fair History unfolds her page, To spread the truths of every age ; Becords the deeds by heroes done, How well they end, how well begun ; Remove the mark of vice and fraud, And what is truly great applaud. And in life's tide, by careful fate, The mind is made to circulate. Just so each watering-place supplies It'i CIRCULATING LIBRARIES." SCARBOROUGH. '(I may be enjoyed, which here forms an interesting back- ground to the scene. This building was formerly used as a Coffee-House, by which name it is now well known by many of it's visitors, as well as by the inhabitants. One of it's Masters, who was a person of great humour and ingenuity, having been often solicited by the company who frequented his house, to introduce Bristol Water to his table, substituted the Castle Water in it's place. Tin- deception was carried on with great dexterity. The wax upon the corks bore the impression of the Bristol seal. A fresh importation was pretended to be made every season, warranted from the Fountain-head ; and the Connoisseurs pronounced it genuine. But the ingenuity of the contriver failed him in an unguarded hour. He had, in a convivial party, taken too much wine, and in the confusion of an intoxicated moment, the Bristol seal was applied to a bottle of Sherry, which was hastily sent up to the table, even before the wax had time to cool. This unluclty circum- stance occasioned a discovery ; and the master of the Coffee-house not only received a severe reprimand for the imposition, but was obliged ever after, as it's reputation was established, to supply the gator-grafi'i, , ,.._ '' In " A Journey frmi London to Scarborough," performed in 1733, the following occurs respecting this house : "In the High-Street, over against the Long-Room Street, is the Coffee-house, to which gentlemen subscribe half-a- crown, and have the use of pen, ink, and paper, for th season." 52 SCARBOROUGH. It was first opened as a Library and Bookseller's Shop, in the year 1811, in which business it has continued to the present period, but with a change of occupants. The collection of Books here appropriated for circulation is numerous, and consists of several valuable works in History, Voyages, Travels, and Biography, as well as an extensive assemblage of light summer-reading in Novels, Romances, and Tales*. The Printing business is also carried on upon these premises. Although Printing was not introduced so early here as at some of the neighbouring towns t, it may not prove uninter- esting to mention the time when the first press was erected at Scarborough, in the words of the celebrated Tlumas Gent, who was the person that fixed the apparatus. " I beg leave to mention here, as a memorial, that a Printing-Omce was first set up by me in Scarborough, about June 16, 1734, in a house in Mr. Bland's Lane, formerly N. called his Cliff ; a most pleasant situation, leading to the beautiful sands." From the " Journey" before mentioned, we extract the * A Catalogue of the Books which compose this collection, has lately been published, and an Addenda, confining the newest works, has just made it's appearance. t The first production of the Yoik Press was the Pica of the Cathedral Church, by Hugh Goes ; (1509,) who is said by Herbert to have printed, at Beverley, a broadside, being a wood-cut of a man on horseback, with a spear in his right hand, and the arms of France in his left. Home's Btbliog. SCARBOROUGH. 53 following, as being descriptive of the Customs practised at the Library at that period : " In the Long- Room Street is the Bookseller's Shop ; where Ladies and Gentlemen subscribe five shillings, for which they have the use of any Books during the season, and take them home to their lodgings. Here are also raffles for books ; if the persons who win do not like their books, they have the choice of any others of the same value*. The notice of Private Libraries will here appropriately appear : the most celebrated one in the neighbourhood of Scarborough, is that of Mr. Archdeacon Wrangham, at Hunmanby ; but Scarborough itself possesses a few desirable Collections, in which are several emblazoned first editions of works on Heraldry, an unique TUSSBB, and many other bibliographical treasures. POST-OFFICE. THE Office is situated on Palace-Hill, at the bottom of Newborough-Street. The Post arrives at half-past six every morning, and goes out at half-past one ; no letters out on Friday for London, and none received thence on Tuesdays. * It appears that the proprietors of this establishment were Caesar Ward and Richard Chandler, who were London Booksellers and Publishers, at the Ship, between the Temple Gates, Fleet- Street. 54 M , \nuoiioi i. M. STEAM-PACKEIS. The City of Edinburgh and the James Watt call off the port regularly to London on Thursday morning, to Edinburgh on Thursday afternoon. Information respecting the Packets from Scarborough to London, may be had on application to Mr. Marflitt, or Mr. Edmond. The CARRIERS to York are Thomas Burniston, who lives near the gates, and Sarah Craggs, at the bottom of New- borough ; they both start at twelve o'clock on Mondays and Thursdays. The Carrier to Hull is John Bell, Cross-Street, who starts on Mondays and Thursdays, at nine o'clock in the morning, aad returns on Wednesday, at five in the afternoon, and on Saturday at nine in the morning. Carriers to Wbitby ; John Bell, and John Annan, Long-Room Street, on Sundays and Thursdays. Carrier to Bridlington ; Porter Owston, starts at nine o'clock in the morning from the Star Inn, on Tuesdays and Fridays. HORSES ARE LET OUT by Mark Dove, and by William Peacock, in Queen-Street ; by Thomas Wilson, and by Jonathan Major, Newborough-Street ; Thomas Glaves, and Mr. Marshall, Tanner-Street ; Joseph Holmes, Mer- chants'-Row ; and Matthew Beecroft, without the gates. Mark Dove has also two Landaus, one drawn by two black Ponies with long tails, the other by two beautiful bays. The latter Landau has a false head for the fore part, to SCARBOROUGH- 55 join to the hind part, which keeps it entirely free from rain. William Peacock also lets Landaus and Pony Carriages ; and William Donkin, a poor blind man in Hall's-Square, has an elegant Pony Carriage for hire. Donkies conveniently caparisoned, and Pony- Carriages, will be found in waiting at the foot of the Terrace every day, and may be engaged by the hour. In 1821 was built a Life-Boat upon Mr. Greathead's plan at Scarborough. Donations for keeping it in repair, &c. are received at the Libraries. A Humane Society for the recovery of persons in a state of suspended animation from drowning, &c. has been lately formed at Scarborough ; subscriptions for the support of which, are, also, received at the Libraries. A Lancasterian School has lately been opened, and to it subscriptions will be thankfully received. DRAWING MASTERS. Mr. Baynes, jun. portrait and animal painter, has a small exhibition of pictures, &c. at his rooms in Newborough-Street, and teaches Drawing ; as does Mr. Hartley in Huntriss' Row, and Mr. Stubbs in Long- Room Street. Drawings are let out from Cole's Library. Music MASTER. Mr. Hartley. FRENCH MASTERS. Mons. de Laube and Mr. Honxsey. DANCING MASTERS usually attend during the season. BANKERS. Messrs. Woodall and Co., Queen-Street. PIANO-FORTES are let out by Mr. Wilson, Music-seller, Long-Room Street ; Mr. Cracknell, Cliff; Mr. Hartley, 56 SCARBOROUGH 1 . Ifuntriss' Row ; Mrs. Ainaworth, Newborough-Street ; and> Mr. Liuwood, Merchants'-Row. The following Coaches set off from the Bell Inn : The Royal York Mail Coach, every Monday, Wednes- day, Friday, and Saturday afternoon, at half past one o'clock. The Leeds True Blue Coach, every morning at eight o'clock, from the Bell and Bull Inns, alternate weeks. The Wellington Hull Coach, every day (Sundays ex- cepted) by way of Bridlington and Driffield, at half-past six o'clock. The Whitby Diligence, every Sunday and Wednesday, at eight o'clock. The Royal Union to York and Leeds, starts at seven in the morning ; on Monday and Tuesday from the Nag's Head, Wednesday and Thursday from the London Inn. and Friday and Saturday from the George Inn. The Highflyer for York and Leeds starts at a quarter before ten every morning ; on Saturday and Monday from the Talbot, Tuesday and Wednesday from the New Inn, Thursday and Friday from the Plough Inn. The following from the Plough Inn : The British Queen Hull Coach every morning at seven o'clock. The Prince Blucher Post Coach, for York and Leeds, every morning at seven o'clock. SCARBOROUGH. 57 The Express to Hull, at seven in the morning, from the New Inn. The last season was a brilliant one ; and when that is the case, we must pronounce Scarborough a most delightful residence : it's situation is noble, grand, and romantic ; it's beauties innumerable ; it's vicinity picturesque and varied ; it's advantages, in short, are very great. Several improvements have taken place since last year, and, in addition to the Edinburgh Packets, one now plies be- tween Hull and Scarborough * ; besides which, is a new Coach to that place, and many alterations are yet in con- templation. But, in spite of these successes, we must confess that there is now much more crying in Scarborough than there was last year : some, perhaps, will know how to account for this strange inconsistency. LODGINGS. The Cliff lodgings hold the first place in point of situation and other advantages : the new houses of Mr. Edmond, Mr. Hopper, and Mr. Cowling, on Eland's Cliff; of Mr. Cooper, near the News- Room Steps ; Ma- rine House, at the foot of the steps ; and those on Bruns- wick-Terrace and Albion- Place, also boast their sea pros- pects ; nor must the two commodious houses lately erected by Mr. Bean, near Dr. Harland's Baths, be omitted, or Mulgrave Place, near the Church. They are in genera 1 clean, airy, and furnished in good style. The Cliff-houses, &c. are usually engaged by the month ; but there is a In 10 hours. Fore-Cabin, 8s. ; Best Cabin, 12,?. 58 SCARBOROUGH. customary charge of 12s. per week for each room, in different parts of the town ; linen is furnished, but the washing is an extra charge. Mrs. Hodgens, and Miss Robinson, in Huntriss'-Row ; Mr. Peter Brown, in Newborough-Street ; Miss Banks, in Merchants'-Row ; Mr. Cooper, on the Sands ; and Mr. Thompson, in Tanner-Street, are Directors of Boarding- houses, and furnish a daily table for the accommodation of their respective lodgers. Besides these, there are Ordi- naries at the different Inns, from which, or from the Board- ing-houses, dinners are sent to all parts of the town, at varied rates, according to the articles ordered ; the lowest charge being 2s. HOTELS. Mr. Dormer's Hotel is delightfully situated in Long- Room Street, commanding a fine view of the ocean ; and Mr. Houson's (formerly the Bull Inn) is at the top of Newborough-Street ; both which afford first-rate accom- modations. INNS. The Bell lun, Eland's Cliff; the Blacksmith's Arms, Queen-Street : both of these are posting-houses, besides Mr. Coates's, Huntriss'-Row. Other respectable Inns are as follow : Talbot Inn, Queen-Street ; New Inn, London Inn, Nag's-head, Newborough-Street ; Plough Inn, Tanner- Street, and many others of respectability. SCARBOROUGH. 59 The following Observations from. " A Tour to Scar- borough, in 1803," by W. HUTTON, F.A.S.S., will afford farther information : " The accommodations we found were of three sorts; to take a furnished house, if a family arrived, which may be done from sis to ten guineas a week ; or, take apart- ments in a family, and find food and servants yourself; or board and lodge in a family at a stated price. We chose the last. The terms were twenty-five shillings a week each, for my daughter and me, exclusive of tea and liquor, and ten shillings each for a bed. The servant half, or seventeen shillings and sixpence, and the same sum for the horse, including com." The markets for butchers' meat and poultry are on Thurs- days and Saturdays : the first by far the most considerable. Yet during the summer, meat is slaughtered six days in the week. Compared with neighbouring markets, that of Scarborough is not a dear one. It has been long famous for it's excellent moor-mutton. Poultry and vegetables, especially potatoes, are here abundant. There is a traditionary report that the old Market-place was situated to the north., behind the covered ropery, near St. Mary's Church ; and the great BLUE STONE, which is to be seen there, is said to have been the place where pub- lic bargains were ratified and discharged. The stone is Basalt, of nearly the same quality as the remarkable Whin- dyke on the high moors. It was probably found in the di- luviaf matter which abounds on this coast. 60 SCARBOROUGH. The market was kept upon the sands in the reign of Ed- ward VI. It has also been held in other parts of the town ; the remains of a very ancient Market-cross are still standing: " it clearly appears," writes Hutton, " that it was once a grand piece of architecture, of Saxon make, a thousand years old, and that Scarborough is a very ancient market town." The following observations on this Cross are by the His- torian of Wakefield : " Scarborough, 4th July, 1825." " Mn. COLE, " Dear Sir, " I am sorry to differ from the late venerable historian of Birmingham, respecting the ancient Pillar or Obelisk in Church-Street ; but, after a minute examination, I think T may confidently affirm, that it never ' was a grand piece of architecture,' as he states. Some old inhabitants informed me, that it formerly stood in the centre of the Street, but was removed to it's present situation at the angle to make room for carriages to pass. To me it is evident, that the round stone forming the base, was originally the uppermost step of the Market Cross, and that this Cross becoming dilapidated, the lower steps were removed, whilst a crocketed pinnacle, probably from the ruins of the Church, was inserted in this uppermost step, to supply the place of the former shaft, which time or injury had taken away. It is well known that a stone of any kind, so long as it is a SCARBOROUGH. 61 sufficiently visible object, served to distinguish the place where Markets were or had been held, for instance, the block of Basalt near St. Mary's : and I am myself ac- quainted with several Market-places, where the original Cross has been supplied by blocks or pillars, totally differ- ing from it, as in the present case. My opinion therefore is, that the Pillar you wished me to examine, never formed part of the original Cross, but was substituted for it at it's decay, either from ruins in the present Church-yard, or from the one formerly on the Cliff." "lam, dear Sir, " Your's very truly, " J. L. SISSON." It may prove interesting to give the origin of the phrase : " Scarborough warning ; a word and a blow, but the blow first." " In the reign of Queen Mary, Mr. Thomas Stafford, son of Lord Stafford, obtained possession of Scarborough 'Castle by the following stratagem : " Having previously arranged his plan of taking the "Castle by surprise, he disguised his troop in the habit of peasants and countrymen, and came to Scarborough on a market-day, under the most unsuspicious appearances. He gained an easy admittance into the Castle, and strolled about with a careless air, apparently to gratify his curio- 62 SCARBOROUGH. sity. About thirty of his men also entered without the least suspicion, and embracing a favourable opportunity, instantly secured the different centinels, took possession of the gate, and admitted their remaining companions, who, under the exterior garb of countrymen, had concealed arms. But the triumph of Mr. Stafford -was of transient duration, and the success of his enterprise was eventually the cause of his death. He had retained the possession only three days, when the Earl of Westmoreland, with a considerable force, recovered it without loss. Mr. Staf- ford, Capt. Saunders, and three other of the leaders, were taken prisoners, conducted to London, and confined in the Tower. They were afterwards arraigned, condemned, and executed." WALKS IN THE IMMEDIATE VICINITY OF SCARBOROUGH. The field for exercise at Scarborough will be found suffi- ciently ample, and the walks or rides of a pleasingly varied description. After the most heavy rains, the Beach is in a few minutes dry and fit for a place of promenade. The plantation, which consists of the several varieties of trees and shrubs, which form a shade to the tastefully laid walks, is situated near the sands, and is liberally thrown open to the public by the corporation. Varied and interesting views may be obtained from several openings, and particularly from the eminence called the Grove-head, which is at the SCARBOROUGH. (3 extremity of the Plantation-Walk, in the immediate en- virons of Scarborough, at the back of a fine piece of water, which from hence appears an effective object. Imme- diately before us, on the descent of the hill, called Grove- head, (on the smooth surface of which are benches, capa- ble of accommodating a numerous party) a plantation of thriving young oaks presents itself. Through this is cut a winding path, leading to the before-mentioned piece of water, which is encompassed with a bank, admirably adapted for promenading ; being adorned by a plantation, which in a few years will render this a charming shade in the meridian heat of the SaRrborough season. At the foot of this lake appears a retreat, called Mill-Cottage, re- cently erected, the very picture of rural neatness and elegance ; in front is seen a pleasing plot of garden ground, and when a few more years shall have fled, we may hope to find it embosomed in verdant foliage. To the right of the buildings connected with the Mill, appears a delightful opening through the path of the valley, affording a view of old ocean's bed, where " Ride the ships In that enchanting bay, with streamers curl'd, And panting sails, that, whiten'd by the sun, Glisten afar." Between the hills, the eye is conducted along the dark blue waves, until they seem to unite with the similarly coloured clouds. The Light-house, raising it's whitened tower, is a conspicuous object. To the left arise those 64 SCARBOROUGH. " Lofty tow'rs that, lusty still In age, Display their scarry fronts to distant leagues," " the Citadel, and it's hoary walls," which present an ef- fective back-ground to the landscape. At the foot of Grove-head falls a small cascade, and be- hind, a lofty eminence, called Mount- Oliver, overlooks the town. It is thus called from a mistaken notion, that Cromwell erected batteries here against the Castle, during the siege, in 1644-5. It is au indisputable historical fact, that Cromwell was never present at this siege. " Those who have ascended this mount, since the in- closure in 1797, will not th^nk that in grandeur of prospect it can easily be exceeded. The roads are judi- ciously laid out, and intersect each other in the most con- venient manner. The ascents are gradual, seldom exceed- ing a rise of seven feet in a hundred, so that in a few minutes .the traveller is conveyed by a good road, thirty feet wide, to a delightful terrace elevated six hundred feet above the sea. Hence there is a view of the Ocean (bound- ed by the horizon) the Coast, the Castle-hill, the Town, the Harbour, and extensive Piers. To the westward, the vale of Pickering, and a vast extent of country in all it's charming diversity of landscape, exhibit scenes of a very picturesque nature. As a ride, it possesses every thing desirable ; and the coolness and freshness of the air, at such an elevation, give a sense of lightness and comfort not easily described. From this eminence, Falsgrave, one mile west from Scarborough, is prominently conspicuous." SCARBOROUGH. 65 Passing the water-fall, the stranger is conducted, by a path leading along " rural hedge-rows," to the " well- protected lanes" which terminate at the last-named village, whence a gravelled walk is continued on the side of the York road to Scarborough. Or, a return over the fields will present several romantic views of the town, from the hills enclosing the valley on which the foot-path is formed ; and to this succeeds another, called Barrow-cliff- Plantation, the property of John Woodall, Esq. the walk to which may be pleasantly taken over the fields from Tanner-Street. The situation is most inviting, and finely adapted for the purpose. One side of the Cliff is planted with various ornamental trees and shrubs suited to it's soil, amongst which happily occur several of ancient growth, which afford an agreeable and tasteful contrast, and through the valley runs a brook, which forms a fine natural embellishment to the scene. The walks are numerous and pleasingly varied by many ornamental de- vices ; and fully worthy of a visit is " this bill And all it's walks of tributary trees. When gathered in one scene, they ask the skill Of Poussin's beauty-breathing hand to fill The fancy of a stranger." The proprietor of this last-mentioned Plantation has lately designed a walk, which is proposed to be made up the Cliff, near the Waterfall at the foot of the Terrace, and proceed over the fields to the Spaw, which has been want- ed ever since the discovery of these celebrated mineral wa- 66 SCARBOROUGH. ters, as, when the tide is up, the progress of the drinkers of these salubrious springs is intercepted. WALK ON THE CLIFF-TERRACE. This is one of the finest natural places of promenade in the kingdom, if we take into consideration it's extent, it'fl elevation, and the grand and varied prospects it affords. " Throned on thy cliffs, how proudly thou Survey's! the varied scene below ! In curve exact thy mansions bending, And to the watery marge descending : Upon that marge, in modest state, Hygeia throwing wide her gate (A better Cytherea she, Risen newly from the ambient sea) To indigent infirmity ; Thy temple, castle, double mote, Port, Spaw ; and circling round the whole, Of beauty and of strength the zone, The ocean's azure girdle thrown !" Or, to use the words of an ancient Poet, " For to behold, it was ane glore to se The stablit windis, and the calmyt see, The soft seasoun, the firmament serreue, The loune illumined air, and firth amene ; Kirkis, castelis, and like fair cityes, Stude paynit, every fane, tower and stage, Upon the plain ground, by thare own umbrage !" OAWIN DOUGLAS. SCARBOROUGH. 67 This terrace is a most fascinating place during the height of our season, when filled with company : " it is not possi- ble to draw for the eye a more agreeable picture.'' It has been expressed that this spot would prove a suitable situa- tion for a Saloon, but it forms of itself the most delightful natural Saloon that could be conceived, whose canopy is the blue expanse, and it's confines the waters of the vast deep. Still a Saloon, Pump-room, or some building of that description, is yet a desideratum at Scarborough ; and an appropriate spot has been pointed out at the head of the water-fall, at the foot of the Cliff, which would command a view of the Ocean, Castle-Promontory, and it's venera- ble ruins : we wish it carried into effect. On pacing over this Cliff one is naturally led to reflect on objects which formerly occupied the situation. Here stood the Church of St. Nicholas, which was, according to the historian of Scarborough, erected so early as the reign of Henry II. " There are not any vestiges of it to be dis- covered, as the land has, in the course of ages, considerably wasted away *. In the year 1786, the entire skeleton of a human body of large stature was found in the Cliff; the teeth were regular, and in great preservation, which is something remarkable, as it might probably have lain there ever since the dissolution of religious houses in the year 1539. ' It is remarkable that an elevation of it should not have been given in the ancient view of Scarborough, made in the reign of Richard III. as there appears to have been some remains of it, when Gent published his View of the town, about 1734. 68 SCARBOROUGH. A tombstone was also found here, without any inscription, though there was a cross, &c. cut upon it, in the rudest sculpture. Several human bones in a regular position were also discovered in 1791 ; and, in 1810, a copper-plate ap- pertaining to a tomb-stone. The Hospital, dedicated to St. Nicholas, was contiguous to this Church." Much praise is certainly due to the corporation for their late spirited improvements here : each succeeding year adds something to the gracefulness of the Cliff; during the last spring the plantation of another portion of it has been effected, and it's base protected by raised stone-work, which, in conjunction with Mr. Henderson's similar spirit of improvement, will form an agreeable promenade when the tide is up. At a short distance from the Cliff-benches, THE SHOP OF MR. CRACKNELL presents itself, filled with marine productions, viz. shells of every degree of brilliance and beauty of pencilling, the pebbles of the coast, besides others of foreign production ; and among the works of art must be mentioned his valua- ble assemblage of coins and medals, carvings, Oriental china, as well as the ingeniously devised articles, in the same line, of our own manufacture, with a great variety of other curiosities : the interior affords a view of the ocean, and is delightfully situated for the display of these works of virtu. SCARBOROUGH. 69 ; A WALK TO MR. CRAWFORD'S SHOP ON THE CLIFF. - The contents of Mr. Crawford's shop-window form a Museum. The great variety and exquisite beauty of the shells here exhibited is "passing wonderful!" and if a jeu-de-mots may be allowed, to stand and minutely inspect them will raise your feelings to the highest pitch of admira- tion, and prompt you to exclaim with the poet, Who can paint like nature? Can imagination boast, amid her gay creation, Hues like these ? Here in a single shell appear, at least in colours, " beryl and emerald, amethyst and peai!,and while the image of the sun is diffused upon them, present a flood of indescriba- ble lustre." The situation of the shop too is as rural as can be con- ceived, which certainly harmonizes with the articles ex- hibited. It is rather a novel situation for a shop to be rurally placed, but so this certainly is ; it stands at the corner of a pleasant garden, whence a view of the majestic main is obtained, and is shaded by aged trees, that add a verdure and life to the scene, which no words can describe. Near too, are Mr. Travis's Baths, which characterise the place, and assimilate with the marine productions' offered for sale. A shop for the sale of Derbyshire Spar ornaments, fossils, 79 SCARBOROUGH. foreign birds of beautiful plumage, &c. has just been opened in Huntriss'-Row. Mr. Browne, in Long-Room Street, polishes agates and fossils with his powerful machine at Scalby-Mill ; he also deals largely in jet ornaments. Mr. Carter's shop in the same street, is known by his show-board, with the word " Curiosities" in large characters exhibited thereon. The shops in Newborough have also a display of rich goods in their several branches. Mr. Smith, the celebrated geologist, has often pointed out the practicability of a carriage-road being formed at the Castle-dykes, by which means a communication would be effected with both the North and South Sands, and a beautiful drive secured from the Spaw up the New Road by the New Church, crossing the York Road and running through the Bull- Lane, past the Seaman's Hospital to St. Mary's Church, which would embrace one of the most picturesque views in the county ; then descending by an easy slope, under the bridge at the Castle foot to the North Sands, and return by Peasholme. Although a carriage- road might be formed at a moderate expence, yet a bridle road or footpath might be first attempted, for the North Sands are now only accessible by Peasholme. The majes- tic features of the Castle-rocks form so grand an object on the North Beach, that it is really surprising, among the many beautiful walks in this neighbourhood, one has never been formed here, since the sliding-ground alone would make an excellent terrace. SCARBOROUGH. 71 ' A WALK FROM SCARBOROUGH TO MR. PEARSON'S SUBSCRIPTION GARDENS, FALSGRAVE. The first object from Scarborough which strikes the eye after passing the delightful Terrace of Brunswick and Al- bion-Place, is " Belle-Vue House, the residence of John Bell, Esq. ; aptly so named, as occupying one of the finest of situations for mixed and beautiful prospect." Continu- ing our walk along a well-gravelled and safely-defended path by the side of the York road, we shortly reach the village of Palsgrave, which is about one mile distant from Scarborough. " It is certainly of great antiquity," writes the Historian of Scarborough, " and previously to the con- quest (1066) was part of the demesne of Tosti, Count of Northumberland." Proceeding along the village street, we arrive at the shop of the Statuary, described in an ani- mated style in the work, entitled, " Prose by a Poet," and shortly after reach the Subscription Gardens of Mr. Pear- son, which are at the extremity of the village, in a retired situation : the house retreats from the village-street, form- ing before it a pleasing green : the road leading to it is designated by the School-House, known by presenting at jt's top, a bell, with the word Palsgrave underneath ; and having altogether the appearance of a chapel. At the end of Mr. Pearson's house is a genteel stone-canopied gate- way, conducting into these gardens, which are open to the public at a subscription of two shillings and sixpence for 72 SCARBOROUGH. the summer season, which entitles one person to walk in them any hour in the day ; and five shillings presents the same privilege to a family. Non-subscribers pay one shilling each time, and are allowed to gather and eat fruit. The grounds abound with strawberries, choice gooseberries, &c. and several rustic summer-houses afford pleasant situations for resting to eat the fruit, or in which to drink tea, presenting at the same time an attractive view of Scar- borough Castle and the North Sands, with Belle-Vue House in the nearer prospect. The view from these gardens of that bold object Oliver's Mount, is very interesting : and on quitting them, just before entering the embowered al- cove, a most delightful view, composed of hill, valley, and woodland scenery, presents itself, which has been pro- nounced too beautiful and complicated for the artist to at- tempt faithfully to delineate. The walk beyond the village of Falsgrave as far as to Stepney-House, is delightful ; the footpath is considerably elevated above the carriage-road, and is very firm. Its boundary consists of " a bank of earth, (on the ridge of which grows a quickset-hedge,) with hundreds, perhaps thousands, of the sloughs or cores of the horns of oxen thrust into the face of it, the root-ends, with fragments of the scull-bones, being turned outwards." . SCARBOROUGH. 17r THE MERE TEA-GARDENS, HA It WOOD DALE, AND FISHING THERE. The Mere Tea Gardens, about two miles from Scar- borough, are now much frequented by those fond of rural excursions. The house is picturesquely situated on a con- siderable elevation, at the side of the Mere, a fine piece of water, abounding with fish, belonging to the corporation, who, on application, will grant leave to those who wish to fish there. The best place for angling is said to be down the Derwent from Hurwood Dale, a delightful valley, at a short distance from Hackness. Harwood Dale itself is highly deserving of a visit. THE QUAKER'S RETREAT. A picturesque situation, called, ' The Quaker's Retreat,' consisting of his rural cottage and a rustic summer-house on the edge of the cliff", overlooking the sea, a short distance from the Spaw, round which are beds of fragrant flowers, is much visited. " I have seen him in a morning at labour in his garden," remarks an observer, who has kindly permitted us to extract from his MSS. " and in an after- noon at the town with a small basket of flowers, crying, ' Buy my Beauties ;' and thus on a bit of ground that one might suppose would be scarcely sufficient to keep a mouse, he contrives to make a living. A proof of what care and industry can effect." 74 SCARBOROUGH. ' A WALK TO CARNELIAN BAY. " At last Carnelian Bay they tread, With all it's myriad treasures spread ; Gems of all kinds red, white, square, round, A new Golconda above ground." Poet. Sketches of Scurborai 1 . A walk to Carnelian Bay* usually gives rise to much mirth among parties clambering over rocky cliffs on their progress to this small but picturesque spot : nor does this portion of the excursion constitute it's chief delight ; as the search for Carnelians or other pebbles occupies and amuses some hours, and the return may be varied by proceeding along the Bridlington road, which will be less fatiguing than over the sands. Visitants, indeed, may order their carriages to be in waiting there, as we conceive the tour of the rocks will afford sufficient exercise for the day. Pai- ticular enquiries should be made respecting the suitable time, as visitants are sometimes intercepted in returning by the influx of the tide, CAYTON-CLIFF MILL is situated on the margin of Car- nelian Bay. Another mode of proceeding to this place is by engaging a pleasure-boat for the voyage. There is a regular charge by the hour, or for the voyage. The following, connected with this place, was published in 1812, " The Minstrel, an Elegy ; written after visiting Carite- lian Bay" SCARBOROUGH. 75 CLOUGHTON-WYKK, about five miles north from Scar- borough, presents some strikingly grand scenery to inland visitants ; and when the tide suits, there is good fishing, either from the boat or shore. The same may be said of Harburn- Wyke, which has oxercised the able pencil of Mr. Francis Nicholson. ENVIRONS OF SCARBOROUGH. Scarborough is the centre and source of attraction to a great variety of picturesque and majestic scenes both of nature and art. The man of taste, fixing his residence there a whole season, may find abundance of matter to gratify his curiosity throughout that period by visiting objects contained within a circle of 25 miles round that ro- mantic watering-place ; and, as being in its immediate vicinity, we will commence our descriptions with HACKNESS, which " is a romantic village, celebrated for the beauty of it's scenery ; and is therefore visited by all persons of taste and fashion who resort to Scarborough, from which it is about six miles distant. The road conducting to it may be taken through the villages of East and West Ayton, which are pleasantly situated on the opposite banks of the river Derwent. The Derwent, after winding in a confined cur- rent through the valley from Hackness, here displays a broader stream. On the slope of a pleasant field to the 76 SCARBOROUGH. north of West AyLoii, stands the ruin of an ancient build- ing., once the fortified residence of the family of the Eures or Evers, who possessed large demesnes in these parts, and in the neighbourhood of Malton. " The village of East-Aytmi * is celebrated for its charm- ing valley, through which, is a delightful ride to Hackness. The lofty hills which embosom this valley, rise almost per- pendicularly, clothed with pendant woods of various foliage ; and the river Derwent, overhung with branching shrubs and spiry alders, meanders in its silvery course through the vale. About a mile up the valley the road winds into Raindiff, where there is another change of sylvan scenery, which covers the north-west declivity of Seamer-moor. A lane, to the left, leads to Hackness, through the village of Everley on the verdant slope of the opposite hill. This is one of the most pleasant rides from Scarborough to Hack- ness ; and the scene may be diversified by returning along the carriage-road which descends the hill at Hay- Brow. From the summit of this hill there is a delightful view of the Sea and Scarborough Castle. The subjacent country, with the picturesque village of Scalby, form a beautiful landscape." . Five miles from Scarborough, and four thence down the valley to Hackness. Those who would lite to walk down the vale might proceed by the mail from Scarborough, at half-past one, P.M. as far as Ayton, and reach Hackness to dinner : they will find a good Inn and accomodations at the Johnstone Arms. A return by Scalby and Newby (the distance in which line being only six miles) will give a pleasing variation to the excursion. SCARBOROUGH. 77 " Hackness is situated in a pleasant valley, embosomed by surrounding hills, adorned with trees of the richest foliage. The hills are lofty, and finely variegated, differ- ing from each other as well in shape as in ornament. The prospects at Hackness have a charming variety ; the hand of nature having not only enriched them with a profusion of sylvan embellishments, but also moulded them into such different forms and projections, as are at once picturesque and beautiful. The road winds irregularly through the valley, presenting at every turn a change of scenery, and the view is sometimes improved by springs of water burst- ing from the sides of the hills in natural cascades, or falling in gentle murmurs." " To this delightful solitude, Lady Hilda, the pious and illustrious foundress of Whitby Abbey, retreated in the evening of life, to pass her days, in sacred retirement and meditation. The site of the monastic cell, built by Lady Hilda, is supposed to have been where the old mansion- house at present stands." The Church is a pleasing rural edifice, embosomed in verdant foliage, having, on a low tower, aspire, than which no other kind of erection could be more happily chosen for it's peculiar situation, as it forms, when viewed through the openings of the woods, a most interesting object ; particu- larly in conjunction with the mansion-house. The interior of the church bears evident marks of antiquity, and has been attached to the monastery of Lady Hilda. " The ancient oak-stalls of the monks, in the choir, still remain, nearly in 78 SCARBOROUGH. their original state." It is the receptacle of a fine piece of statuary by Chantreif, thus inscribed : " With the purest sen- timents of conjugal affection, this monument is erected by an afflicted husband, to the memory of Margaret Anne Johnstone, his beloved wife, who died on the 20th day of June 1819, in the 24th year of her age. The charms of her person and the sweetness of her manners were graced by the observance of every Christian virtue. She was the eldest daughter of Sir R. V. B. Johnstone, of Hackness, in the county of York, Bart, by Dame Margaret, his wife : and was married on the 28th day of October, 1815, to George Johnstone, Esq. To them were born two daugh- ters ; the eldest providence was pleased to recal, the youngest remains to solace her father in his afflictions." There are a few other inscriptions to the memory of the Hobbys, who formerly possessed the manor. The canopy over the font, apd a pair of curiously embellished candle- sticks at the altar, are worthy of inspection. In the church library are several valuable ecclesiastical works, and we think a " Bibliotheca Parochialis de Hackness " would not prove uninteresting. On entering Hackness from Scalby, an elegant arched entrance bespeaks the approach to the village, the view through which, as it gradually unfolds itself, backed by that uncommonly bold, fine hill near the Church, crowned with wood of varied foliage, when tinged with the soft glow of an evening's sun, produces an effect beyond description luxurious. SCARBOROUGH. 79 The gateway itself is an appropriate and pleasing de- sign, and is covered with a great variety of ornamental shrubs, which are pendent over it's sides, and would form a most interesting subject for the artist. On the right of this gateway appears the elegant Man- sion-house * of the proprietor of the lordship, Sir John Vanden Bempde Johnstone, Bart, which was erected by Sir Richard Johnstone, the father of the present owner. Some very striking improvements have been made in the grounds contiguous to the mansion since last summer, in the enlargement of the sheet of water in front of the house, the conducting of a rivulet round the woods which environ the park, the embellishment of the sides of the carriage-road, by plantations, the erection of a New Lodge, and other ef- fective alterations. A few more such changes will contri- bute toward rendering Hackness, Fairy Land, and this sweet vale, a place of enchantment. Mason has celebrated it in his drama, Argentile and Curan : Sewold. And where shall I await thee ? Curan. My best Sewold, Thou knowest when we did quit our anchor'd barks, We crossed a pleasant valley, rather say A nest of sister vales, o'erhung with hills Of varied form and foliage ; ev'ry vale Had it's own proper brook, the which it hugg'd In it's green breast, as if it fear'd to lose * Mr. Wilson, of Scarborough, has published a view of the House and Church. 80 SCARBOROUGH. The treasur'd crystal. You might mark the course Of this cool rill more by the ear than eye, For tho' they oft would to the sun unfold Their silver as they passed, 'twas quickly lo*t ; And ever did they murmur. On the verge Of one of these clear streams there stood a cell O'ergrown with moss and ivy ; near to which, On a fall'n trunk that bridg'd the little brook, A hermit sat. Of him we ask'd the name Of that sweet valley, and he call'd it HAKKXRSS. " The higb ground between Scarborough and Ayton, called Seamer-moor, and the moora which extend westward to Lockton and Saltergate, present many interesting ob- jects to the eye of the antiquarian ; particularly camps, trenches, houses, upright stones, and foundations of ancient British dwellings. These hills are also interesting to the naturalist, from their peculiar form : being all flat on the top, with steep but smooth declivities on their northern fronts, descending at the same angle. Some of these hills are stretched out in oblong ridges, which when their ends are presented to the spectator, have the appearance of haystacks. This is particularly the case with Langdale End, and Blakey Topping ; to which we may add Oliver's Mount, near Scarborough*." HUNMANBY, About the midway between Scarborough and Bridlington, is well built and pleasantly situated, being surrounded by * Young's Picture of Whitby. SCARBOROUGH. 81 6,000 acres of fertile land, and adorned by a considerable quantity of ornamental wood, chiefly growing on an ele- vated site, called the Castle-hill, where are still to be traced the foundations of an ancient fortress. From this place the ground slopes, with a regular and almost imper- ceptible descent, toward the beautiful and picturesque Bay of Filey. Tn the Parish-church is a sumptuous monument, com- memorating those of the Osbaldeston family, who died in the eighteenth century. Over the central arches of the church are emblazoned, in eleven distinct shields, the armo- rial bearings subscribed with the names of the ancient lords of the place. The vicarage -house, which stands near the church, of both which we give a representation, has been greatly improved and embellished by the present in- cumbent, the Rev. Archdeacon Wrangham, M.A. F.R.S. The interior contains a valuable collection of books in dif- ferent languages ; the Proprietor being a member of the Roxburghe Club. A Private Catalogue of the Library is now printing under his own inspection, rich in notes, ob- servations, and extracts, from which the publisher of this work has been permitted to draw up a brochure of the most curious books in the folio and quarto English classes. The most valuable work is an unique copy of an edition of the Romance of Arthur, printed by Wynkyn de Worde, " in Flete-Strete, at y e sygne of sonne. In the yere of our lord god, M.CCCCC.xxir. the xviii daye of November." The following have been acquired since the " Bibliogra- 82 SCARBOROUGH. phical and Descriptive Tour from Scarborough to the Library of a Philobiblist," was published : Folio. Brydges' (Sir Egerton) Atavia Regue. Consisting of sixty copies only, printed for private use. Florence, 1820. Quarto. Schooten's Account of his Discovery of the Straits ofLeMaire. A Latin Tract Cuts. Very rare. The Hon.. Miss Grimston's History of Goiham- bury, with Engravings. Unpublished. The whole, both text and illustrations, in litho- graph. Sisson's Parish Church, Wakefield, L p. Proof plates on India paper Wakefield, 1 824. Octavo. Barbier's Famous Came of Chesse-play, by Saul. Cuts. 1640 Brydges' Polyanthea Librorum Vetustiorum. Genev, 1822. Cimelia Ibid. Valerianus De Literatorum Infelicitate. Genev. 1822. N.B. Of eacb of these three volumes only 75 copies were thrown off. Catalogue (with names and prices) of Sir M. M. Sykes' Library, in three parts. Cole's Bibliographical, &c. Tour. Coloured paper, illustrated Searbro', 1824. Only two copies so coloured. SCARBOROUGH. 83 Conybeare's Octavian, Emperor of Rome, abridged from a MS. in the Bodleian Library. Oxford, 1809 " Printed only for prioate distribution." Crude.n (Alex.) on the Superlapsarian Scheme 1736 Grace, Memoirs of the family of, inc. &cc. Unpub- lished, pt :; 1823 Hey, (the late Dr. John) oh the Writings of St. Paul. Unpublished Buckingham, 1811 Home's (T . H.) Memoir of Up. Beveridge. Only Six copies so printed 1824 Irby's and Mangles' Travels in Egypt, &c. Map, pi 1823 " Printed only far private distribution." Madden on the Encouragement of Learning in Dublin College, &c. Dublin, 1732, 1733 Pope's Temple of Fame, and Messiah, in Latin Verse, by Gahagan 1748 " Done shice his confinement in one of the cells in Newgate." N. B. This unfortunate Scholar, who had previously translated the Essay on Criticism, and edited Brindley's Classics, was hanged for filing gold money ! Vide MS. note. Lord Grenville's&ugs Metrica?, 4to. Oxford, 1824. " Printed for private distribution." 84 SCARBOROUGH. Lcs neuf Preux, nouvellement imprime a Paris, 6. /. folio, with a singular initial L and Colo- phon ' Mich, le j\oir' 1507 SCARBOROUGH. 85 FILEY, a small fishing town, eight miles south from Scarborough, is much visited by the frequenters of that ancient watering- place, and is upon the banks of a spacious bay, which, with the assistance of art, would make an excellent har- bour. The shore is circular, and the sands are beautifully smooth, firm, and extensive. The Cliffs, to the eastward, are lofty, and curiously indented, resembling the spires of a Cathedral ; but, to the westward, they decline considerably from their elevation, until they join those at Speeton. Filey is singularly situated in the North and East-Ridings of Yorkshire ; the church being in the former, and the town in the latter. The beach is convenient for sea-bathing, and there is a spring of mineral water, a mile to the north of the church, which contains a little iron, sea salt in con- siderable quantity, Epsom salt, and calcareous earth. " At the eastern extremity of the sands, an extraordinary ridge or natural mole of rocks, called Filey-Bridge, projects nearly half a mile into the sea, and is a great protection to the bay in tempestuous weather. At high-water, the rocks are overflowed ; but when, the tide is low, there is a passage along them to the outer extremity, whence is a fine view of Flamborough-Head and Scarborough Castle. In stormy weather, the sea breaks with great violence against these rocks, and the breach of the foaming waves is frequently seen from Scarborough. The fishery at Filey is prosecuted with great spirit and success." SCARBOROUGH. FLAMBOROUGH CLIFFS. .n>/' >1 v The CLIFFS of Flamborougb, about twenty miles distant from Scarborough, are well worth inspecting : " they are ef amazing grandeur and a tremendous height, from one hundred to a hundred and fifty yards perpendicular. They are composed of a mouldering limestone rock, of a, snowy whiteness, covered and adorned with an astonishing num- ber of birds, remarkable for the variety and brilliancy of their plumage. From the latter end of April to the beginning of August, myriads resort thither, to build their pensile nests, and trust their eggs and tender offspring to the exposed and dangerous security of broken rocks, and projecting ledges. " At the foot of the Cliffs, are some extepsive CAVERNS, formed either by the restless turbulence of the ocean, gra- dually and imperceptibly excavating the solid rock, or by some unknown cause of distant origin. There are three, which exceed the others in extent and curiosity. The principal is ROBII* LYTH'S- HOLE, which surpasses the rest in extent of dimensions. It has two openings, one commu- nicatiag with the land, the other with the sea. The for- mer is low and narrow, giving solemn admission into the cavern, which, at the first entrance, is surrounded with a tenebriose gloom ; but the darkness gradually dispersing, the magnificence becomes unfolded, and excites the admi- ration of the exploring; stranger. The floor is a solid rock, SCARBOROUGH. 87 formed into broad steps of an easy descent, and the stones, at the sides, are curiously variegated. The roof is finely arched, and nearly fifty feet high at the centre. The many projecting ledges and fragments of suspended rocks, joined to the great elevation, give it an awful, and, at the same time, a majestic appearance ; and when looking up- wards to survey the lofty arch, and reflect upon the superincumbent mass sustained by it, there is a difficulty in suppressing those ideas of danger which intrude upon such an occasion." Near Flamborough is situated the celebrated Light- House, which, from it's elevated situation, may be seen at a great distance. The interior may be viewed on appli- cation. From Flamborough, an excursion to the church of Brid- lington should be made, which presents interesting speci- mens of the architecture of various periods ; for a minute description of which, and several antiquities connected with this edifice, we refer our readers to Mr. Thompson's valuable Historical Sketches of Bridlington. In the church-yard at Rudston, a village five miles west from Bridlington, " is an obelisk* highly worthy the atten- tion of the antiquary." It consists of one entire and im- mensely large stone, of itself a curiosity ; the erection of which has been ascribed to the Druids, the Romans, &c. ; * A lithographic view of this obelisk hag been lately published by J. Cole. 88 SCARBOROUGH. and as no description can present an adequate idea of Us magnitude and effects, combined with the adjacent scenery, we earnestly recommend a visit to the original, which is a venerable object of antiquity. " ROBIN HOOD'S BAY is a small fishing town, thirteen miles north from Scar- borough*, and is frequently visited by strangers, on account of the alum-works in its vicinity. The road to it is stony and uneven, over a dreary barren moor, and the hill at Stoupe-brow t is impracticable for a carriage. On descend- ing this hill, from the moor to the sands at Robin Hood's Bay, the road passes the alum-works, where the curiosity of the traveller is gratified with a view of those immense mountains of alum-stone from which the salt is extracted ; and the interior works are worthy of observation. ' ' The road from the alum- works to the village of Robin Hood's Bay, is along the sandy beach, close under a high, steep cliff, to which the sea flows as the tide advances, and the passage is unsafe, except there be a spacious area of the sand uncovered by the water, or the tide be reced- ing. * Between Scarborough and Robin Hood's Bay are only two villages; Burniston four miles, and Cloughton five miles from Scarborough. There is nothing worthy of note at these places, except a quarry of freestone at the latter, from whence the Castle of Scarborough is said to have been built. t About two miles from Kobin Hood's Bay. SCARBOROUGH. 89 " The Sea-coast northward from Scarborough is craggy, wild, and terrific, bending inward as far as the River Tees, and by its winding, forming this bay, nearly a mile in breadth. The sands here, are firm and level ; but the shore, at a little distance from the Cliff", is rocky ; and there is only a narrow passage from the sea, where the fishing boats can land in safety. " The village consists of the habitations of fishermen, and once made a grotesque appearance, the houses being strangely scattered over the face of a steep cliff, and some of them hanging in an awful manner on the projecting ledges of the precipice ; but this place has lately sustained a great alteration by the falling of the cliff ; in consequence of which, the projecting houses and the pavement of the principal street as far as the fronts of the houses on the opposite side, are ruined, and a new road has been made from the landing-place through the interior part of the town. The village derives its name from that famous outlaw, Robin Hood." At about the distance of seven miles from this fishing- place is situated the town of WHITBY ; the most interesting objects in which place are the venerable ruins of its Abbey, and the Museum of " the Literary and Philosophical Society," which is open from eleven to one o'clock on Tuesday and Thursday in every 90 SCARBOROUGH. week. " The most interesting article lately purchased is the Fossil Crocodile, discovered in the Cliff, near Salt- wick. The existence of the crocodile among the large animals imbedded in the alum-shale, had not hitherto been satisfactorily ascertained : but this specimen establishes the fact beyond all doubt. ; ' The Rev. G. Young, of Whitby, has published a valua- ble " Picture of Whitby and its Environs." The pier at this place is worthy of examination, being a massive one of wrought stone. A delightful ride by the sea-side, of three miles in extent, may be taken from Whitby to Lyth, by Sandsend ; but it should never be undertaken by strangers without full infor- mation from persons residing upon the spot, of the practi- cability of completing it in easy time. The author of " the Perambulator's Guide to the Scarborough Sands" was once crossing this place in the company of a gentleman of London, who, unconscious of the difference between driving on wet or loose sand and on hard road, very soon knocked up a fine horse and brought him to a stand still, before he had got half way over it. PICKERING, which is eighteen miles westward from Scarborough, lies in the road to Kirkby Moor-side and Duncombe Park, and was formerly the chief town of the district, and once sent .SCARBOROUGH. 91 two members to parliament. The situation is upon a pleasant eminence. The castle at present is in a very ruinous state ; but not many years since, some of the towers had wooden floors entire, and doors to the dungeons. The castle-hill commands a charming view of the vale of Pick- ering, which is celebrated for its fertility. The following ancient description of the country from Scarborough to Pickering, from Leland's Itinerary, may prove useful. " From Scardeburgh to Aiton three miles, where coming over Derwent, I saw a Manor-place * sometime belonging to a knight called Aiton ; but now to the best of the Yevers (Evers). At this manor-place is a tower or pile. Thence to Brunston (Brompton) three or four miles, and three miles more to Wileton, where is a manor-place with a tower belonging to Cholmeley. Cholmeley hath a house at Rollesby. Thence to Pykering ; and most of the ground from Scardeburgh to Pykering was by bill and dale plenti- ful of corn and grass." K1RKBY MOORSIDE, is a market town situated near the River Rye. It was originally called Kirkby, and received the additional epithet Moonide, from its situation on the side of Blackmovr. It is distant from Scarborough about twenty-six miles. Kirkby * A View is given in " the Portfolio" published by SLerwood and Co. 92 SCARBOROUGH. Moorside and Helmsley (including Buncombe Park) were part of the extensive possessions of VilJiers, Duke of Buck- ingham, who was killed by Felton. The manner of the death of the succeeding Duke, who, " by an unbounded extravagance and dissipation wasted the immense inheritance of his family, and died in extrem e want and misery April 15th, 1687," is well known from the muse of Pope ; which has given celebrity to his dying scenes, and depicted his condition and that of his dwelling, in the following energetic lines : " In the worst inn's worst room, with mat half-bung, The floors of plaster, and the walls of dung, ' . On once a flock-bed, but repair'd with straw, With tape-ty'd curtains never meant to draw, The George and Garter dangling from that bed, Where tawdry yellow strove with dirty red, Great Villiers lies, alas ! how changed from him, That life of pleasure, and that BOU! of whim ! Gallant and gay in Clifdeu's proud alcove, The bower of wanton Shrewsbury and love ; Or just as gay at council, in a ring Of mimic statesmen, and their merry King. No wit to flatter left of all his store. No fool to laugh at, which he valued more. There, victor of his health, of fortune, friends, And fame, this lord of useless thousands ends." wJl uajG-3 ,&ii" .;.' The following is a copy of the register : " Burials. 1687. April 17th. Gorges vilaus Lord dooke of bookingham." SCARBOROUGH. 93 The copy of a letter from the Earl of Arran, afterward Duke of Hamilton, to a friend, appeared in the Whitehall paper in 1784, saying " that the Earl passing through Kirkby Moorside, attended (accidentally) the Duke's last moments ; that he died April 15th, 1687, (aged 60) and having no person to direct his funeral, and the Earl being obliged to pursue his journey, he engaged Gibson Esq., (a gentleman of fortune at Welburne, near Kirkby Moorside) to see him decently interred." The house * in which this unfortunate nobleman expired is situated in the Market-place ; being at present occupied by Mr. Cole. During the summer-season it is much visited by the curious. " There is no tradition here of the house in which the Duke of Buckingham died ever having been an Inn, and from it's present appearance it must at that time have been, except- ing one, the best house in the town. It is built in the ancient style, with projecting wings. The length of the front is 16 yards : and whatever improvements may have been made in the house since that time, the shell of it remains as it was. The room in which the Duke died is on the second floor in front of the house, and is the best lodging room in it. The boards are fir, which were there at the time of his decease. Many years after his death a seal was found in a crevice, in the room in which he ex- pired, having the Buckingham arms on it, which is supposed * A view of this building has lately made it's appearance In 3vo. Published by J. Cole, Scarborough. 94 SCARBOROUGH. to have been his ; and is now in the posssssion of Mr. William Cole." The following pathetic letter, written by the Duke in his last illness, shows that he sincerely repented of the actions of his past life. " From the Younger VILLIEHS, DUKE OF BUCKINGHAM, on his death-bed, to Dr. W . " Dear Doctor, " I always looked upon you to be a person of true virtue, and know you to have a sound understanding ; for, however I may have acted in opposition to the principles of religion, or the dictates of reason, I can honestly assure you, I have always had the highest veneration for both. The world and I shake hands ; for I dare affirm, we are heartily weary of each other. O, what a prodigal have I been of that most valuable of all possessions, Time ! I have squandered it away with a profusion unparalleled ; and now, when the enjoyment of a few days would be worth the -world, I cannot flatter myself with the prospect of half a dozen -hours. How despicable, my dear friend, is that man who never prays to his God but in the time of dis- tress ! In what manner can he supplicate that Omnipotent Being, in his afflictions, whom in the time of his prosperity, -he never remembered with reverence "! " Do not brand me with infidelity, when I tell you, that I am almost ashamed to offer up my petitions at the throne SCARBOROUGH. 95 of Grace, or to implore that divine mercy in the next world, which I have so scandalously abused in this. " Shall ingratitude to man be looked upon as the blackest of crimes, and not ingratitude to God 1 " Shall an insult offered to the king be looked upon in the most offensive light, and yet no notice taken when the King of kings is treated with indignity and disre- spect 1 " The companions of my former libertinism would scarcely believe their eyes, were you to show this epistle. They would laugh at me as a dreaming enthusiast, or pity me as a timorous wretch, who was shocked at the appearance of futurity ; but whoever laughs at me for being right, or pities me for being sensible of my errors, is more entitled to my compassion than resentment. A future state may well enough strike terror into any man who has not acted well in this life ; and he must have an uncommon share of courage indeed, who does not shrink at the presence of God. The apprehensions of death will soon bring the most profligate to a proper use of his understanding. To what a situation am I now reduced ! Is this odious little hut a suitable lodging for a Prince ? Is this anxiety of mind be- coming the character of a Christian? From my rank, I might have expected affluence to wait upon my life ; from religion and understanding, peace to smile upon my end : instead of which, I am afflicted with poverty, and haunted with remorse, despised by my country, and, I fear, for- saken by my God. 96 SCARBOROUGH. " There is nothing so dangerous as extraordinary abilities. I cannot be accused of vanity now, by being sensible that I was once possessed of uncommon qualifications, especially as I sincerely regret that I ever had them. My rank in life made these accomplishments still more conspicuous, and, fascinated by the general applause which they pro- cured, I never considered the proper means by which they should be displayed. Hence, to procure a smile from a blockhead whom I despised, I have frequently treated the virtues with disrespect ; and sported with the holy name of Heaven, to obtain a laugh from a parcel of fools, who were entitled to nothing but contempt. " Your men of wit generally look upon themselves as discharged from the duties of religion, and confine the doc- trines of the gospel to meaner understandings. It is a sort of derogation, in their opinion, to comply with the rules of Christianity ; and they reckon that man possessed of a narrow genius, who studies to be good. " What a pity that the holy writings are not made the criterion of true judgment ; or that any person should pass for a fine gentleman in this world, but he that appears soli- citous about his happiness in the next ! " I am forsaken by all my acquaintance, utterly neglected by the friend of my bosom, and the dependants on my bounty ; but no matter ! I am not fit to converse with the former, and have no ability to serve the latter. Let me not, however, be wholly cast off by the good. Favour me with a visit as soon as possible. Writing to you gives mo SCARBOROUGH. 97 some ease, especially on a subject I could talk of for ever. " I am of opinion this is the last visit I shall ever solicit from you ; my distemper is powerful : come and pray for the departing spirit of the poor unhappy " BUCKINGHAM." On the road from Kirkby Moorside to Helmsley, and Buncombe Park, is the celebrated KIRKDALE CAVERN, of the discovery of which, we extract the following from Young and Bird's " Geological Survey of the Yorkshire Coast." " The labourers at the quarry of stone for repairing roads at Kirkdale, having removed the alluvium from above a fresh piece of the rock, in the north part of the quarry, and wrought this rock downwards for a few feet, discovered, in July 1821, a cavern running horizontally from the slope of the bank eastward, and then making a turn to the north east. " The operation of the workmen laid open that part of the cave which extended from the bank to the remarkable turn now mentioned, a distance of forty-six feet. The aperture towards the slope was nearly square, being about two feet each way ; but it became considerably wider to- wards the turn, and a little higher. The stratum forming the floor was flat and unbroken, and was thickly covered 11 98 SCARBOROUGH. with bones and teeth, not lying in distinct skeletons, but strewed about in the greatest confusion, and mixed with a soft marly earth, apparently resulting from the decompo- sition of bones. The bones had scarcely any appearance of being water-worn ; a few of them were tolerably entire, but the greater part consisted of broken fragments of leg bones, thigh bones, jaw bones, &c. ; and many of them were greatly decomposed, being nearly in the state of phosphate of lime, and ready to crumble into powder. The teeth were found, partly in the fragments of jaws, and partly detached. The quantity of bones, in this part of the cavern, was reckoned to exceed a cart load. The roof and sides of the cavern were, in many places, incrusted with stalactites, masses of which were also mixed with the bones *." At a short distance from this cave, is KIRKDALE CHURCH, situated in a fine romantic valley, and celebrated for a dial, bearing a very ancient inscription f. HELMSLEY, the property of C. S. Buncombe, Esq. is an ancient market- town, in a pleasant situation, on the banks of the river Rye, six miles from Kirkby Moorside. The cultivated part of, the country contiguous to it is fertile, and abounds with * Professor Buckland, P. G. S. has published a very interesting volume on the subject of this cavern, and the remains found in it. i S*e a description of Buncombe Park, Rievaux Abbey, &c. price 2s. 6d. and Kastmead's ffixtoria Ricrallen.ii,*, 8vo. SCARBOROUGH. 99 venerable woods ; but, at a distance, the- barren moors ap- pear in view. The remains of the castle are grand and imposing, con- sisting of a lofty tower ; and some other detached broken parts, with a noble gateway, situated upon an eminence surrounded with a double moat. This tower, in conjunction with the rich woodland scenery around, forms a prominent: and most interesting object from the exquisite terrace be- longing to Buncombe Park. Visitants will find excellent accommodations at the New Inn, at Helmsley, from which place the road * is usually taken to RIEVAUX ABBEY, a stately vestige of antiquity, situated in a pleasant vale, about three miles from Duncombe Park. The ruins yet stand- ing, are noble, and prove the abbey to have been of great extent. The situation is not to be surpassed in picturesque beauty. At a little distance from the abbey, are the gar- * Parties generally take their vehicle to the Abbey, whence they walk to Duncombe Park along the fine terrace, called the Bank Top, which is near the Abbey ruins, and return through the Park to Helmsley, in which course the ruins of the Castle will meet the eye, and cull for minute examination. Those who can spare time, should contrive to devote two days to the excursion , sleep, ing the first night at Kirkby Moorside, or at Helmsley, and pro- ceeding the next morning to inspect those majestic and enchant- ing scenes. 100 SCARBOROUGH. dener's apartments, whence there is a steep and winding path ascending to a charming terrace, which overlooks the ruins, and commands the most beautiful and diversified prospects. At one end is an elegant pavilion ornamented with paintings ; at the other a handsome circular temple, whence appears an extensive valley richly adorneu witn wood and water. The north side of the terrace is defend- ed by a thick plantation of firs, and the slopes are covered with a variety of trees and shrubs. Indeed the scenery is altogether beyond description fascinating. DUNCOMBE PARK, the seat of C. S. Duncombe, Esq. is about two miles from Helmsley. The house is a fine building designed by Sir John Vanbrugh. In the JtiaJl, a noble room, sixty feet long and forty wide, surrounded with fourteen large Corinthian pillars of stone, is that invaluable piece of sculpture, the Dog of Alcibiades, the performance of the celebrated Myron, and the celebrated statue of the Discobolus, which is es- teemed the first statue in England. The saloon has, in spirit with the laudable fashion of the times, lately been converted into a library. The collection of paintings, though not very numerous, is extremely capital and choice. We must not fail to notice to the traveller, that BY LAND ABBEY, an interesting ruin, is only about four miles from Rievaux Abbey. -SCARBOROUGH. 101 CASTLE HOWARD, the seat of the Earl of Carlisle, six miles to the west of Malton *, (which place is distant twenty-two miles from Scarborough,) stands upon a beautiful eminence in view of the York road, and is esteemed one of the noblest mansions in this county. It was built from a design of Sir John Vanbrugh. The large and princely collection of antique busts, statues, marbles, urns, and paintings, with which this mansion is enriched, affords a high gratification to the admirers of the fine arts, while the liberality of the noble proprietor entitles him to the praise and gratitude of the public, for allowing them to participate of the pleasures arising from such a repository of taste. An enumeration of the whole of the paintings here would be too extensive for insertion : a selection only will, there- fore, be introduced. The three of greatest reputation, formed a part of the Orleans collection. The most cele- brated picture is that of the THREE MARIES, by Annibal Ca- racci. In this astonishing effort of art all the excellencies of painting are united. With respect to the reputed value of * The York Coach might be taken in the morning at seven for Malton, where at the Talbot Inn are good accommodations, and there would be sufficient time to inspect the house, and return to Malton to meet the coach about three p. m. for Scarborough. 102 SCARBOROUGH. this extraordinary performance, it has been alledged that the court of Spain proposed to cover it with louis-d'ors, and that this would have amounted to eight thousand. The following lines were composed on seeing a lady burst into tears, upon contemplating this exquisite performance. " The veil withdrawn, in plenitude of art, The tragic subject storm'd the Christian heart j Still, as she bow'd with reverential awe O'er the dead author of the living law, And view'd the anguish of contrasted woes, Congenial sorrows in her breast arose : Rooted she stood, r ntranc'd in speechless grief, Pure as her love, nd strong as her belief; Her bosom glow'd, her heart refus'd to beat, 'Till gushing tears allay'd the fervent heat : Such hallow'd tears as saints and angels shed, When from the cross, redemption rear'd her head ; Tears sooth'd by hope, which now maturely beam'd, A Saviour martyr'd -but a world redeem'd." The following must be particularly noticed : The Entombing (f Christ Ludovico Caracci ; The Finding of Moses Don Diego Velasquez ; Adoration of our Saviour by the Wise Men M abuse ; The Portrait of Snyders Vandyck ; Herodias with the Head of John the Baptist in a Charger Rubens ; The Circumcision Giovanni Bellani ; Isaac going to be sacrificed Rembrandt; Saint John the Evangelist Do- menichino ; Portrait of Omni Sic Joshua Reynolds. * The picture is shaded by a curtain. SCARBOROUGH. 103 The PARK is enriched with several ornamental buildings, vix. a Mausoleum, an Ionic Temple, a stately Obelisk, &c. A view of this mansion, from a drawing by J. Jackson, R. A. has lately been published. Take Scarborough and its environs in conjunction, and there will be found " Scenes worthy of the pen of Virgil, or the pencil of Lorraine." FINIS. J. COLE, PRINTER, SCARBOROUGH. Page Page Excursions upon the Sea, observations on A Infirmary .... 13 Flamborough Cliffs ....86 85 Baths, Travis's 39 near the Piers ...40 Champley's ....41 46,73 -75 Boarding-houses 58 Helmsley . . ...98 Hotels 58 S4. Castle 4 80 Howard 101 Cayton-cliff Mill 74 58 Plianola . . Vl Kirkby Moorside . . 91 Charitable Institutions.. 11 Church, St. Mary's 18 Cloughton Wyke 75 O7" Libraries .... * .47', 50,53 57 59 Coaches 56 Customs of Scarborough, 38 in 1733 15 . .f:A Drawing, Music, Dancing, French, &c. Masters . .55 Duncombe Park 100 Minerals and Fossils ..48 64, 80 106 Page 4.7 ftQ Page Tide, high and strong, of Feb. 3 and 4, 1825 ..36 Observations on . . 44 Town Hall . . Sfi News- Room and Pianofortes for hire ....55 .... 90 . . fi2 Walks in the immediate Vi- cinity of Scarborough, 62 . .11 . .QQ Robin Hood's Bay ....88 . . K7 CVmn . . ftQ . .2fi to Mr. Crawford's, ib. Carnelian Bay, 74 Whitbv 8Q r IMiHU University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 405 Hilgard Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90024-1388 Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed. ,21 540" 8 ~ iHnUi -