REESE LIBRARY

OF THE

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA.

Class

TRAVELS

THROUGH

THE UNITED STATES

NORTH AMERICA,

THIi

COUNTRY OF THE IROQUOIS,

AND

UPPER CANADA,

IN THE YEARS 1795, 1796, AND 1797;
WITH AN AUTHENTIC ACCOUNT OF LOWER CANADA.

BY THE

DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

VOL. I.

CONTAINING THE TOUR THROUGH THE NORTHERN PROVINCES, UPPER CANADA,

AND THE CAROLINAS, WITH THE ACCOUNT OF LOWER CANADA ;

AND A GENERAL MAP.

Honiion :

PRINTED FOR R. PHILLIPS, NO. 71, ST. PAULAS CHURCH-YARD,

BY T. DAVISON, LOMBARD-STREET, FLEET-STREET;

SOLD BY T4 HURST AND J. WALLIS, PATERNOSTER-ROW, AND BY CARPENTER AND CO.

OLD BOND-STREET.

1799-

BEESB

Of THE

UNIVERSITY

THE

r |^HEDuke de la ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT, a man,
who, at all times, has been diftinguifhed as one
of the molt amiable, the mofl virtuous, and the belt in-
formed of the French nobility, has made a journey for
philofophical and commercial obfervation throughout a
great part of North America, and has communicated the
fubftance of his observations to the World, in the valuable
Narrative which is here prefented to the Britifh Public.

Although no longer a dependency of the Britilh Empire, ,
the thirteen Provinces of the American Commonwealth are
not regarded by -Britons as a land of ftrangers. The mu-
tual animofities of the war of the American revolution are
already extinguilhed. Britons and Americans now think of
each other only as brethren; a kindred defcent, a com-
mon language, congenial character, a Itrong alliance of in-
ftitutions, arts, and manners, render them to one another
reciprocally interefting, perhaps much more than, in fimilar
circumftances, any third nation would be to either. As the
hiitory of the Spaniards, who firit entered South America,
engages our curiofity more than that of the horfes, the dogs,

a 3. or

iv TRANSLATOR'S PREFACE.

or the fugar canes, which they carried with them ; as the
hiftoryof the nations of poliihed Europe is more interefting
than that of the Tartars and Tongufi ; as accounts of the
fortunes of a fon, a father, a brother, a lover, in a diftant
land, are more anxioufly expected, and more eagerly heard,
than if it were but a cafual acquaintance to whom they re-
lated : fo, in the fame manner, and for the fame reafons,
every new communication refpe6iing North America, and its
inhabitants of Britifh defcent, is naturally, in an extraor-
dinary degree, attractive to the curiofity of the people of this
country. M. de la Rochefoucault's details concerning co-
lonial life and manners are, hence, adapted to imprefs a
Britifh imagination, as agreeably as if their fubjecSl were the
rural ceconomy of Wales, of Yonkftiire, or of the High-
lands of Scotland, and that, till now, though .fb nearly in-
terefting, yet utterly unknown.

Befides fuch motives of affe&ion and curiofity, there are
reafons of a lefs refined nature, which engage the commer-
cial people of England, to liften eagerly to all authentic
accounts refpeting America. A great and increafing inter-
courfe of trade and emigration is carried on between thefe
two countries. 'The lands and national debts of the Ame-
rican Republic are familiarly bought and fold in London.
The produce of American plantations, the planks from
American faw-mills, the fliips built in American dock-yards,
are, in a large proportion, deftined for the ufe of Britain. A
very numerous emigration .of induftrious, reftlefs, or enter-

prifing

TRANSLATOR'S PREFACE.

prifmg perfons, is conftantly paffing from Britain to Ame-
rica. The transfer of property between the two countries
is great and inceflant. It would be impoffible to manage

the commercial buiinefs which thus arifes between the two
countries with any adequate mercantile intelligence, if con-
tinual enquiries were not diligently made into all circum-
fta-nces, that can influence produce, manufacture, and de-
mand in the market, efpecially in America, where all
things are yet much more uncertain, and more imperfectly
known than in Britain. The political relations and corref-
pondence between Britain and America confpire to the
fame effect ; for there are many occafions, upon which a
Britifh politician, inattentive to the progrefs of things in
America, would be entirely incapable of providing for the
true political interefts of the Britifh empire.

It is, however, to the philofophical enquirer, of what-
ever nation, that fuch details as the following volume con-
tains, concerning the ftate of life and manners in America,
are likely to be the moft acceptable and inftructive. The
progrefs of colonization ; the firft diffufion of new inhabi-
tants through unappropriated waftes; the fluggifh aukward-
nefsof infant hufbandry; the relapfe into barb arifm ofthofe
outcafts from polifhed fociety, wiiom their fortune conducts
into regions, where they can converfe only with the wild-
nefs of rude nature, and where they are deflitute of all the
accommodations of the arts ; the fimplicity of government
and of life and manners, that is natural in countries where

population

vi TRANSLATOR'S PREFACE.

population is fcanty, and in which the fubdivifions of
labour, and all the complex accommodations of fociety, are
unknown ; the curious vcontraft between colonial and favage*
manners, and the effects of the collifion between barbar-
ifm and civility ; topics interefting to philofophy, above al-
moft all others in the hiftory of human nature, and, of all,
the moil imperfectly known ; are to be now, for the firft
time, fully elucidated, by a vigilant and unremitting obfer-
vatioii of the phafes of focial life in America. For the pur-
pofes of afcertaining and illuftrating the moft important
principles of general polity and jurifprudence, how often
have philofophers in vain attempted to explore the forgot-
ten and unrecorded beginnings of civil life ! How often
lamented, that the moft interefting period in the progrefs of
fociety, mould thus be prior to the age of enlightened ob-
fervation ! How often and how ridiculoufly laboured to
fupply the deficiency of records, by that fort of theory which
has been pompoufly chriftened Conjectural Hiftory ! The
account of the firft population, meafurement, and tillage of
the plains of Egypt, Aflyria, Hindoftan, or China, is no
longer to be recovered from oblivion: even the exacl: ck-
cumftances of the fettlement of the firft Egyptian colonies
in Greece ; of the firft Lydian, Greek, and Phrygian colo-
nies in Italy ; of our Teutonic anceftors in Germany and
Britain muft remain unknown. But a keen attention to
what is now paffing in the back fettlements of North Ame-
rica, and to that ihceffant emigration from Europe, and

from

TRANSLATOR'S PREFACE. vii

from the more populous American provinces, by which thofe
back fettlements are filled, will, at laft, amply fupply to phi-
lofophical enquiry, what had feemed to be irrecoverably
loft, and will enable us to fill up an important chafm in the
hiftory of the human fpecies. It is the vegetable unfolding
itfelf from the feed ; it is the opening mind, in the firft
months of infancy ; it is the form of confummate ftrength
or beauty, rifing under the artift's hand, from the ihapelefs
block of marble ; rather than the full-grown plant, the"
mature man, or the finifhed ftatue ; that the moil delight-
fully interefts the philofopher of refined penetration, and
the man of tafte, who to foundnefs of reafon unites a vivid
delicacy of fentiment, and of imagination. Of all the pages
of philofophical hiftory, none can deferve to be read with
fuch earneft curiofity, as thofe which difplay the nafcent
energies of focial life.

Of fuch inducements to attend to 'any information con-
cerning the progrefs of induftry, wealth, and civil policy in
North America, it is impoffible for any one to be infeniible
in reading the following journal. M. de la ROCHEFOUC AULT
LIANCOURT is a traveller of no ordinary difcernment and
diligence in enquiry. As the friend, and, in fome fort, the
agricultural pupil of that intelligent philofopher, Mr. Arthur
Young, he travelled with views nearly fimilar to thofe by
which Mr. Young was guided in fo many tours and pere-
grinations, and in the compofition of fo many journals of
husbandry. The quality of the foil, the advantages for cul-
tivation,

vTl TRANSLATOR S PREFACE.

tivation, the numbers, the induftry, the intelligence of the
hufbandmen ; the advances which they have made in trans-
forming the vaft forefts and favannahs of interior America
into corniields and meadows ; their modes of clearing and
culture; the quantity of produce which they obtain; their
mills, and other means of manufacture for the market; the
opportunities of profitable fale, have been marked and re-
corded by M. de la Rochefoucault Liancourt ,i n all thofe
American provinces through which he travelled, with an
accuracy and fullnefs of information, which feem to rival
Mr. Young's tour through France and Italy, or even Sir
John Sinclair's more elaborate ftatiftical collections concern-
ing Scotland. Commerce fhares his attention with rural
ceconomy; he vifited the lakes, the bays, the creeks, the
points of the influx of the navigable rivers into the fea, and
thofe beyond which navigation cannot afcend toward their
iprings ; he furveyed the ftore-houfes ; he marked the arti-
iices of the traders ; he entered the dwellings of the inha-
bitants of every different rank, partook of their fare, and
flept or w r atched in their places for reft ; he travelled without
any thing of that encumbering apparatus of wealth or gran-
deur, which hides the realities of life from thofe it environs,
even at thofe times when their refearches are the moft dili-
gent, and, as they think, the moft fuccefsful. He liftened,
and enquired, and looked around him, even with all the
bufy affiduity of Sterne's Inquifitive Traveller. He was not
one of thofe who are willing to content themfelves with

gueffes

TRANSLATOR'S PREFACE?. ix

guefTes and with general language ; but was, on every oc-
cafion, careful to obtain, if poffible, ftatements admitting
of the ftri6left accuracy of number and calculation. If
unable to look around on thofe fcenes of wild and majef-
tic nature, with the fublime and picfturefque imagination of
a poet ; if unendowed with the fkill of a fcientific naturalift ;
M. de la Rochefoucault Liancourt cannot, however, fail to
appear to every reader, to have been eminently qualified to
make fuch obfervations as are beft adapted for the inflec-
tion of the farmer, the merchant, the colonial emigrant, or the
political ceconomift : And it was precifely a traveller of this
character who was wanted to give us the moil defirable new
information concerning the progreffive fettlement of America.
With the account of trade and induilry, he unavoidably
combines fketches, details, and flight cafual touches, re-
fpe6ling the familiar life of the Americans, which every
reader will find highly amufing and inftruclive. He exhi-
bits pictures of Indian manners, which, though mournfuf,
and difgufling to tafle, are, yet, interefling to philofophy, in
conjun&ion with his accounts of the fettlers before whom
the Indian tribes are gradually vanifhing from the earth.
With his ftatements refpec~ling the provinces of the Ameri-
can Republic, he prefents alfo a multiplicity of important
details concerning the British colonial pofTeffions of Canada.
He tells all that he could learn, without being reflrained,
even by confiderations of perfonal delicacy, or the fecrecy

b of

TRANSLATOR'S PREFACE.

of honour, from making public. feveral things, which, though
acceptable to us, were certainly not intended to be thus
proclaimed to all Europe, by thofe who communicated them
to him. Concerning the intercourfe, the emulation, the
mutual jealoufies, the dark projects reciprocally meditated,
between the Americans and the Britifh colonifts and foldiery
of Upper Canada, he gives a variety of information, which,
\ve ihould, otherwife, never have obtained:.

The character and predominant opinions of M. de Roche-
foucault Liancourt himfelf, are, in this volume, very frankly
and amply difplayed. In his character, great native recti-
tude and benignity of difpofition appear to be aflbciated with
fome of the philofophical affectations of the new fchool, and
with fomewhat of that never-failing gallantry arid polite-
nefs, which ufed to mark the manners of the old French'
nobility.

Although a vi&im to the Revolution, he Hill approves
thofe principles of political reform, upon which the firft
movements toward it were made : Though an outcafi from
France, he ftill takes a warm patriotic intereft in the glory
of the French nation. Hence, he inclines, at times, to en-
courage the milder clafs of thofe political fentiments, which
the fagacity of Government finds it prudent to difcourage
in Britain, as little adapted to promote the general welfare.
And whenever the views, the interefts, and the public fer-

vants

TRANSLATOR'S PREFACE. xi.

vants of the Britifh Government come to be mentioned, he
ufually fpeaks the language of a foreigner and a foe.*

Throughout the whole of his American journies, there ap-
pears to have reigned in the mind of this illuftrious exile
a melancholy caft of imagination, with a peeviih irritabi-
lity of feeling, fuch as it was very natural for misfortunes
like his, to produce. Every fcene of beneficent conduct
from great landholders toward their dependents, brings
to his remembrance his own endeavours to enlighten and
blefs the peafantry upon thofe eftates in France, which once
were his own. He fhrinks in agony from the exultations
with which Britifh officers tell him of the ruin of the naval
force of republican France. He complains of a dirty
room, a hard bed, or a fcanty meal, as if it were a grievous
misfortune. He has a peculiar quicknefs of eye at difcover-
ing floth, knavery, and mifchief, wherever he travels. The
wounds which his fpirit had fuffered were flill frefh or fef-
tering ; and were, therefore, liable to be grievoufly inflamed
and irritated by the flighteft degree of new laceration. He,
not unfrequently, breaks forth into expreflions of keen
anguifh, or more fubdued and penfive forrow, which, being

* In a very few places it has been found expedient to infcrt initials for proper
names, and to fubftitutc afterifks for fentiments. In one or two inftances where
obvious fuppreflion would have insinuated more than the original paragraph,
the original has been retained. The motives of the writer, in thefe places,
are fo obvious, and his conclufions fo palpably unjufl, that to have foftcncd or
(upprefled would have been a bad compliment to the underftanding of the
Britifh reader.

b %

:X11 TRANSLATORS PREFACE.

the. voice of nature and of truth, muft prove to every reader

inexpreffibly interefting.

It is, amidft all this, impoffible not to admire this ami-
-able nobleman, for labouring to divert the tseclium of his
.exile, by enquiries of a tendency fo beneficial, and for ac-
.commodating his mind, in fo confiderable a degree, to the
hardfhips of his condition. Perhaps he could not have been
more ufefully employed, in any conceiveable profperity of
his fortunes. He appears to have been content to ricle on
horfeback, without a fervant, and to travel about without
.aught of the pomp of greatnefs, or the luxury of opulence,
juft as if he had never been more than a plain farmer or
manufacturer in France.

; The ftyle is naturally fimple, and devoid of all affecta-
tion. The Tranflator has not, in his verfion, made any
attempt to clothe the work in laboured elegances or orna-
ments, which it did not originally wear. Faithfulnefs, iim-
plicity, and corredlnefs of Englifh phrafeology, are the chief
qualities, by which he has afpired to diftinguifh his work.
He leaves it to the reader, to judge, how far he may have
been fuccefsful or other wife.

The Englifh Edition has been, illuftrated by a MAP,
drawn on purpofe, from the information contained in the
work kfelf, and a clofe infpection will fhew, that this Map
not only corrects former Maps of America in many points*
but exhibits in their proper places, for the firil time, fe-
veraj new Towns and Settlements.

The

TRANSLATOR'S PREFACE. xiii

The Index, formed by the Tranflator, will render it eafy
to refer to this volume, even for any fmgle particular of the
information which it contains.

It cannot, for a moment, be doubted, but the book of fo
illuftrious a traveller free as it is from all blemimes of
affectation or negligence, filled with information the moft
recent and important, concerning a country than which
there is no one elfe more an object of Britim curiofity,
communicating nothing but what is plainly of the higheft
authenticity, dwelling chiefly on thofe topics of enquiry
and information, which are the moft fafhionable, and the
moft attractive, to policy, trade, and induftry, and inter-
mingling fuch allurements of pathetic fentiment, and of
perfonal anecdote, as never fail to pleafe, will, from all
thefe recommendations, be very favourably received by the
Britim Public.

H. NEUMAN.
LONDON, July, 1799.

AND

TT 7"HEN I began to write a journal of my Travels, it
was my intention to confine it folely within the
circle of my friends : but fome of them being of opinion
that the publication of it would be of general advantage,
I fubmitted to their advice, and refolved to publifh k on
my arrival in Europe. In chufTng a patronefs for my book,
it was natural for me to felecT: that perfon who claimed the
largefl fhare of my efteem and gratitude ; who has been
endeared to me ftill more by her unparalleled misfortunes.
There could be no occafion for calling to remembrance,
the atrocious murder of a coufin ; as it is too well known,
and held in juft abhorrence. But perhaps it is neceffary
to remark, that his- virtue was fo exalted as to render him
unfufpicious of fo nefarious a crime, and that his internal
confcioufnefs induced him to flight the advice which his
friends gave both to him and me, at the time when an
order was iffued for arrefting us; and which, in all proba-
bility,

xvi AUTHOR'S PREFACE.

bility, was not the only mandate concerning us from the
fame quarter. He would not quit France, but I, who
was lefs confident and lefs virtuous, fled from the poignard,
while he fell by its ftroke !

On my arrival in Europe, and while I was employed
in preparing this work for the public, I received an account
of my aunt's death, which cut off all the fond hopes I had
entertained of once more beholding her, even on her
.death-bed. It will readily be fuppofed, that the idea of
withdrawing from her the dedication of my book, could
not enter my afflicted mind I have ftill preferved it for
her with a fympathetic regard. Although eftablifhed
ufage mav hereby be violated, yet he who is feniible
that neither friendflup nor gratitude ends with death,
will eaiily conceive the pleafure, melancholy as it may be,
which I receive from the performance of this laft facred
duty to a departed friend, who had fo many claims upon
my warmeft affections.

DEDICATION

( xvii )

DEDICATION

CITIZENESS LA ROCHEFOUCAULT D'ENVILLE,
My dear and unfortunate Aunt,

IVE me leave refpecTfully to prefent you with na
account of my Travels through the United States
of America. It is an offering of fincere attachment and
gratitude ; and I am confident you will receive it kindly.
How often have I, in the courfe of this work, lamented
with painful anxiety, that I was not near you ; that I was
prevented, by dreadful circumftances, from taking a mare
with your amiable and lovely daughter, in affording you
that attention and comfort of which your feeling and af-
flicted heart flood fo much in need ! Undoubtedly my
fervices could never have been equal to his, whofe fate
we deplore : but I am bold to think, that in the tender-
nefs of my feelings, and in your own heart, you would in
me have recognifed a fon. I have fometimes thought,
that you miffed me ; that after recollecting every thing
which makes me indebted to your goodnefs, your advice,
and example, you have not entirely removed me from your
thoughts. You will eaiily believe, that this was one c>i*

c the

XV ill DEDICATION.

the reflections which has given me the greater! degree of
pleaiure. The certainty of holding unalterably a place
in the affection of an efteemed .object, in fpite of misfor-
tune and reparation, has a peculiar effect in animating the
heart of that man who is free from felf reproach.

" The obfervations you will find in this work itfelf are
not fo perfect as they might have been ; but you know
what difficulties a traveller, who wifhes to convey informa-
tion, has to combat. He is always obliged to be fatisfiecf
with the anfwers given to his queftions : he does not often
find a man at leifure or difpofed to give the information
that is required: the perfon who is queftioned about the
objects of his own bufinefs, frequently knows no more than
is neceffary to carry it on, and is incapable of conveying
his ideas to another even on the fubject of hrs own occupa-
tion. And it happens ftill more frequently that party-fpirit,
ielf-intereft, or prejudice, deprive thofe anfwers of all man-
ner of truth and candour. The traveller himfelf is often
deficient in making the proper enquiries; he often views
things with a prejudice, imbibed from a certain fyftem,
arid according to which he regulates all his queftions, and
all the anfwers he receives. To thefe real difficulties are
frequently added thofe which arife out of the perfonal
fituation of the traveller, from the circumftances of the
moment, or from fome opinions which he may have already
formed, before he makes his inquiries. It is eafy therefore

to conceive how difficult it is for a perfon who travels to
acquire a full and accurate account of every thing,

" I do not fay, that in this tour I have had the good
fortune to keep clear of the rocks againft which fo many
travellers have ftruck. But I may fay that I have done
every tiling in my pdwer to infert nothing but what
is authentic. As far as I poffibly could, I have made
inquiries concerning the fame thing of feveral men, of
different iiiterefts and opinions. I have done my utmoft
endeavour to get rid of every partial opinion, I might have
previoufly formed ; in fhort, I have fought after truth by
every means in my power. The idea of writing only for
you, for my friends, and for myfelf, has made me ftill more
ftrict and attentive with regard to the materials which I
collected, and the accounts I afterwards made from them.
I have likewife ftated almoft on every occafion, the fources
from whence I drew them ; in order to engage your appro-
bation, or fliew where doubts ought to be entertained.
I have not, knowingly, ftated any thing that was erroneous;
but ftill I am far from fuppofing that I have efcaped every
kind of error. I have frequently in one place been unable
to obtain an account of certain circumftances, concern-
ing which I had in another place acquired very full in-
formation. Although fome books of travels in America
may contain fewer facts than I have collected ; yet I do
not the lefs, on this account, perceive the defects of my

c 2, tour,

XX DEDICATION.

tour, which I might with more cunning, but with lefs
fairnefs, have concealed from my friends.

" The territory of the United States is perhaps the
only country in the world which it is moft difficult to be
made acquainted with, unlefs you have traverfed it your-
* felf. It is a country altogether in a ft ate of progreffive

advancement. What is to-day a fact with regard to
its population, its management, its value, and trade,
will no longer be fo in fix months to come ; and ftill lefs in
fix months more. It is like a youth, who from the ftate of
a boy is growing into manhood, and whofe features, after
the expiration of a year, no longer refemble the original
pidture that had been drawn of him. The accounts given
by travellers at prefent, and perhaps for many years to come,
can only ferve as the means of enabling diftant pofterity to
form a comparifon between the ftate which the country
mall then be in, and what it formerly was. In this point of
view it appears to me, that fuch accounts are far from
being ufelefs.

" Every day I travelled, I wrote down the accounts, juft
as I received them. Whenever I remained for forne time in
the fame place, I put together what information I had col-
lected, and arranged it in a better order. I have been in
many places oftener than once ; confequently the obferva-
tions made concerning them have been written at the dif-
ferent times 1 happened to be there. It would have been

eafy

DEDICATION. XXI

eafy enough to have put them together into one article :
but in that cafe I ihould not have written merely a Journal
of my travels, which was what ' I had wifhed to do ; that
being perhaps the only kind of work which does not require
greater talents than mine, and where truth can be the prin-
cipal merit.

" I have fometimes made remarks which had properly
no connection with my tour : it is a great fatisfaclion to
him who writes for his friends, that he is fure of their
lympathiiing affe6tion, though he mould give himfelf up to
the fentiments and feelings of the moment.

" No doubt I ftand in need of forgivenefs for having
occafionally yielded to an imperious neceffity, and for hav-
ing been carried away by the force of impreffions which
were only of a perfonal nature. My friends will view thefe
deviations with indulgence; and perhaps they will even ex-
perience favour with thofe readers to whom my prefent
fituation. may be known.

" With regard to the ftyle of this work; probably my
endeavours to make it as perfpicuous as poffibk, which has
been my chief object, lias been productive, in fome places,
of tedious prolixity, and frequent tautology. To write with
as much purity and corre6lnefs as we are capable of, we
want more Icifure than he can fpare, who binds himi.elf to
commit to paper every day the obfervations he has made,
whatever may be his fituation.

" I have

5CXH DEDICATION".

" I have foinetim-esmadc ufe of Engjifli terms, and forne-
-times turned them into French; always taking pains, how-
ever, to tranflate them as correclly as pofFible : this I have
done whenever I found it practicable, and never loft fight
of the true meaning. Still there are foine words, which,
when translated, do not perfectly convey the fignifica-tion
that attached to them in Englilh-.: for example the word
cleared Signifies a piece of land where forne great trees have
been felled, and others have had an incifion cut round them in
the bark, and the branches lopt off and burnt ; in order that
corn may be fown. This is not perfectly explained by the
word eclair ci, which only means that fome- branches have been
cut off; either for the purpofe of forwarding the growth of
thofe that remain, or of adding to apleafant profpecl. The
term defriclie always fignifies cultivated ground from which
.the roots have been taken away : but that land which in
America is called cleared, is frequently not cultivated. The
French translation of the term flare is magazin : but it is
frequently expreffed by the word boutique : and yet neither
of thefe words conveys its meaning completely, according
to the particular character, object and ufe of ilore in Ame-
rica ; and efpecially in places thinly inhabited. The words
magazin and boutique may be met with repeatedly in books
of travels, but the reader will never be able from them to
form an idea of the meaning which belongs to the word

^ o

/lore in America. A ftore is a mop or place where all

kinds

DEDICATION. XXlll

kinds of commodities intended for confamption are to be
found, and fold by retail ; nothing is excluded from it :
here are candles and matches, as well as fluff and tape.
The word fettler has never the fame meaning with habitant*
the fettler, in general, is a man who repairs to a particular
place, with an intention of fettling in it; but he is not
always the inhabitant of it. A tract of land is faid to be
fettled, when a fufficieut number of inhabitants have fixed
themfelves in it : but die meaning of this kind of fettk>
ment can never be expreffed by the words habite, peuple,
or eiapK* In order to exprefs certain circumftances. and
iituations in a new ftate, it is no extraordinary thing io be
obliged to adopt new terms. Therefore, my dear friend,
you will, without doubt, forgive me for having attempted
to introduce new words into our language.

" In a word, dear Aunt, whatever imperfections this
work may poffefs, I offer it to you with confidence ;
although to others it may be indifferent, I am certain, that
to you it will be abundantly interefting."

ERRATA.

Page 12. for Medot read Medoo.

16. for of the read of.

17. for the pravifion zVread the provifons are.
35. for than read but.

35, 36, 37. for Dunkers read Tunkcrs,
95. for conquently read confequently .

I oo. for preferred read preferred not.

155. for cultivation read circulation.

172. for on read oar.

236. for <w to cover read

Page 385. for greenwood read

417. for fait jtockfitb rezd Jatt Jijh.

434. for is comparatively read are comparatively

444. for/upp or read /uppo;t

441. for inhabited read uninhabited.

450. for 'waulk-mills read fulling -mills.

476. for ftttrfmate read ;a//?.

600. for rattlcfnake read water rattle fnake.

6a6, for JVw'f-6 Carolina read SW Carolina. \

f Of TH

I UNIVERSITY I

v y

T R A V E L S

THROUGH

The United States of North America, Canada,

IN THE YEARS 1795, 179(5, AND 1797,

A RESIDENCE of five months in Philadelphia has afforded me a
degree of previous information relative to the United States,
from which I cannot fail to derive efTential fervice in the courfe of my
intended journey. I have had the good fortune to meet with an agree-
able young Englifhman, who is well informed, is a pleafant companion,
and is uncommonly fond of travelling. HiJrnamc is GUILLEMARD,
and he is defcended from one of thofe French families, with which our
unhappy differences in religious matters enriched England. He has been
induced to vifit this part of the world, folely by a wifli to obtain accurate
information relative to America, without any view whatever of pecu-
niary advantage from his expedition : a rare inftance of liberality of mind.
With a fortune handfome, though not large, he deems himfelf fufficiently
opulent ; and the inquifitive turn of his mind, as well as his difinterefted
temper, difqualifies him for thofe purfuits, by which many pedbns in this
country rapidly enlarge their fortune. I am perfuaded he is the beft tra*
veiling companion I could have found, and 1 fliall endeavour to imprefs
him with a fimilar opinion of me before the clofe of the fummer.

of May, 179,5.

We intended to have fet out at an early hour yefterday morning, but
our departure was delayed till this day at noon ; a trifling delay, how^
ever, confidering the length of the journey, on which we enter j We

3 have

2 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

have left Philadelphia. Our party confifts of Guillemard, myfeii;
his Engliih fervant, our three horfes-, a fourth to carry our luggage, and
my faithful dog Cartottche, who has been my conftant companion thefe
fix years. I left Philadelphia with pleafure ; but I bear with me a
ftrong feeling of gratitude towards a great number of its inhabitants,,
who have treated me with the utmoft kindnefs. I am particularly im-
prefled with fentiments of affedion for the members of the reipe&abkr
famiy of CHERO, who received me as one of their friends, and who
muft appear highly amiable even to thofe, who have not fo many reafons
to praife them, as I have. They are good, eftimable, and agreeable, in every
point of view : my warmeft thanks, my beft wilhes remain with' them.
Notwithstanding the kind reception, which I met with in Philadelphia,
I am glad I have left it. A poor foreigner, conftantly overwhelmed with
civilities, which he is unable to return, muft even at beft lead an unplea-
fant life. He endures a ftate of conftant dependence, fraught with me-
lancholy reflections, which the apprehension of being burthenfome gene-
rally infpires, He imagines himfelf indebted to pity for the kindnefs he
experiences, which, did it actually fpring from that fource, would be^
cruelty. Often does he indulge fuch reflections with injuftice, miftruft'
being the infeparable companion of the deftitute-, on whom; what is called,
philofophy has but little influence.

Hitherto we have travelled in the fame road; through which we paffed'
about a fortnight ago. In this place I (hall infert the journal of that
little tour, which, although it bears no proportion in length to the ac-
count that I propofe to write of the remainder of my travels, will not,
I truft, prove wholly uninterefting.

A TOUR TO AND FROM NORRIS TOWN.

ON the twentieth of April Mr. Guillemard, CALEB
and myfelf, fet out on horfeback from Philadelphia, through Ridge
Road, on otir way to NorrisTownf- This road, like all the public roads

111

BY THE DUKK DE LA ROCHEPOUCAUI.T LIANCOURT. 3

in Pennfylvania, is very bad, for provision is brought to that city from *-''
all parts in large and heavy laden waggons. The conftant pailage of
thefe waggons deftroys the roads, cfpecially near the town, where fe-
vcral of them meet. Ridge Road is almoft impaflable.

The diilricl: of the city extends about four or five miles north and
ibuth, and is bounded on the call by the Schuylkill. This extent was
originally affigned to it by WILLIAM PEXX, when he formed the plan
of the city. He promifed to every fettler, who ihould purchafe five
thoufand acres of land in the country, one hundred acres within the city-
diftrict, and two town-mares ; a promife which was faithfully fulfilled
by him and by his fucceffors, as long as any town-lhares and acres of
land within the diilricl: remained for distribution. William Penn
kept only five or fix thoufand acres for himfclf. This land is in its foil of
a, very indifferent quality, but its vicinity to the town occafions it to be
bought with great eagemefs. It is covered) with country-houfes, which,
ki point of architecture, are very fimple ; from their great number they
however enliven and cmbelliih the whole neighbourhood, j Very few of
them are without a fmall garden ; but it is rare to obferve one, that has
a grove adjoining, or that is furrounded with trees ; it is the cuilom of
the country to have no wood near the houfes. Cuftoms are fometimcs
founded in reafon, but it is difficult to conjecture the defign of this prac-
tice in a country, where the heat in fummer is altogether intolerable, and
where the ftruclurc of the houfes is defigncdly adapted to exclude that
executive heat.*

Land in this neighbourhood is worth about eighty dollars an acre ;
three years ago it was worth only forty-two. Two miles from the city
Ridge Road interfeds the entrenchments, which the Englifb conftrucled
during the laft war, for the purpofe of covering Philadelphia, after they
had penetrated into Pennfylvania through the Chefapeak. The re-

* The reafon is, becaufe the country was univerfally wooded, when the building of
tliefe houfes was firft begun ; and in a country thus wooded, to clear the fpace round the
dwelling-houfe was juil as natural, as to plant round the houfe in a country otherwifc
bare of wood. Tran/latsr.

B 2 mains

4 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

mains of thefe works arc ftill vifible. But the prefence of the Englifh.
is more ilrongly tcftified by the ruins of many half burnt and half demo-
limed houfes, fo many expreffive monuments of that inveterate animo-
ilty, with which the war was carried on^and which was highly difgraceful
to the generous fentiments of a people, who well know, that every evil
inflicted on an enemy, even in time of war, without the plea of neceflity
or advantage, is a crime. Alas ! the evils of fuch a ilate, however alle-
viated, will ftill be far too numerous.

As the country on this fide of Philadelphia poiTeffes more variety than
on any other, it is here we difcover the moft agreeable profpeds, fome of
which are truly charming ; and more fo, the nearer we approach the
Schuylkill. The contraft between the rocks, which form the banks of
this river, and the numerous meadows and adjacent corn fields, gives
this profped a mixture of romantic wildnefs, and cultivated beauty, which
is really delightful.

The road we have entered does not join the Schuylkill, except near
the falls. This name has been very improperly given to a ilight ine-
quality in the level of the ftream, produced by pieces of rock of un-
equal fize in the bed of the river, which, as they accelerate the motion
of the water with a certain noife, obftrud, no doubt, the navigation ;
yet fo far are they from forming any confiderable water-fall, that they
are entirely covered at high water ; and at that time fro all veflels, which
ply along the right bank, pafs thefe falls, although not without dan-
ger. A fmall rivulet, which, a fhort diftancc above thefe falls, runs
into the Schuylkill, turns feveral tobacco, rmiftard, chocolate, paper, and
other mills ; none of which are confiderable buildings ; but their great
variety enlivens and beautifies the landfcape. Above the falls, a Mr. NI-
CHOLSON poffeffes large iron- works, a button manufaaory, and a glafs-
houfe. But none of thefe works are yet completed. The buildings,,
however, which appear to be well conftruded, are nearly all finimed.
A particular building is affigncd to every different branch of labour ; and
the largeft is defigned for the habitation of the workmen, of whom Mr.
Nicholson will be obliged to keep at leaft a hundred. Thefe build-
ings

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIAXCOURT. 5

ings are on the right bank, and the warehoufe, which is to receive the
manufactures, is on the oppofite fide. The pieces of rock, which occa-
fion the falls, form an eafy communication acrofs the river, and would
greatly facilitate the construction of a bridge, were fuch a project to be
carried into execution.

The fituation of this fettlemcnt is extremely well chofen ; for, on the
very fpot where the navigation of the river is intercepted, all the mate-
rials neceiTary can be procured from both fides of the water. The fand
required for the glafs-houfe is brought from the bankix)f the Delaware ;
the caff-iron from the higher parts of the Schuylkill, and the pit-
eoal (which is fold in Philadelphia at two {hillings, or four fifteenths of
a dollar per bumel) from Virginia. The completion of the canal, which
is to unite the Schuylkill w T ith the Delaware, will greatly facilitate the
fale of the manufactures.. The want of thefe commodities, which have
hitherto been drawn chiefly from Europe, enfures them a certain mar-
ket ; in fhort, every thing promifes fuccefs to this undertaking. All'
thefe natural advantages however muft vanim> if ever there fliould arife
a want of money, large and prompt iupplies of which are requifite to
give activity to the whole ; as well as judgment, induftry and economy.

There is- in America a fcarcity of perfons capable of conducting a bu-
finefs of this kind. There are alfo but few good workmen, who are
with difficulty obtained, and whofe wages are exorbitant. The conduc-
tors of Mr. Nicholfon's manufactories are faid to be very able men;
But then a whole year may elapfe, before the workmen fall into a proper
train of buiinefs, fo that Mr. Nicholfon's fituation does not afford the
moft flattering profpects of fuccefs, if his returns be not rapid, as well
as large. ^

The condusctors of the manufactories beingjabfent, we were not able
to obtain more ample information concerning this eftablimment, and for
the fame reafon we could not learn, whether it be intended to make ufe
of the fame machines, which are ufed in the great iron- works in Europe.
The whole road from Philadelphia to Roxborough is full of granite, and
covered with a fort of mica, which is reducible to the fineft duft.

About

TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

About half a mile from Mr. Nicholfon's buildings, on the bank of the
Schuylkill, is the houfc of one ROBERTSON, where we intended firfl
to flop.

Robertfon, a quaker, and brother of Caleb Lownes's wife, is a mil-
ler and farmer on his own account. He pofleffes an eftate of two
hundred and fifty acres, of w r hich thirty only are covered with wood.
The land is, on the whole, of very inferior quality in this diftri&.
There is but little wheat cultivated here, the common grain being maize,
called m America Indian corn, rye, and fome oats. An acre generally
yield's 'from twenty-five to thirty bumcls of maize, from eighteen to
twenty bufhels of rye, and about ten bufhels of wheat. Mr. Robert-
fon manures his land ; but it is a furprifing fact, that he fetches his dung
from Philadelphia at the high price of three dollars a load, containing
about five cubic feet, w r hen he might cafily procure it in abundance on
his own form. Seven fuch loads are allowed to every acre, and his land is
manured every three or four years. His meadows are fuperior to the reft
of his grounds ; in .common with all other American farmers, he mixes
platter of Paris with his feed. Four oxen and two horfes are fufficient to
do the work of this farm, a part .of which is fo tteep, as to be incapable
of cultivation. Day-labourers are procured here without much diffi-
culty ; they receive four millings a day with board, or five millings and
nine pence without it. The price of Indian corn is five Ihillings a
bufhel, of wheat from nine to twelve, and of barley fix. Hay is gene-
rally fold at fixtecn or eighteen dollars a tun, but at this time it is thirty-
three, .Common meadows jield about three tuns,l}jut thofe in a good
fituatio.n, which are properly cultivated, and fown with clover or other
grafs, at times produce eight tuns. Mr. Robertfon buys lean cattle,
from the fattening of which he derives a profit of fixtecn, twenty,
or twenty-five dollars a head. Robertfon however afierts, that hay is
the moft lucrative produce arifmg from the meadows; at leaft it is that
which, with equal profit, requires the leaft toil. I am aftonifhed at the
ihallow arguments the farmers of this country offer, to juftify this fa-
vourite fyftem, of avoiding whatever requires labour. On this principle

Mr.

SY THE DUKE DE LA 110CHEFOUCAULT tfANCOURT, 7

Mr. Robertfon will not keep a dairy, or mgke either butter or cheefe,
though, were he to try the experiment, he would loon experience its ad-
vantages. It appears, that this cuftom partly arifes from the fcarcity and
great expence of labourers, but ftill more from the prevailing indiffer-
ence and indolence of the farmers, who prefer the indulgence of this
difpoiition to a fmall advantage. It is alfb, in fome meafure> to be at-
tributed to the national character, in which indolence is a very ftriking
feature. In point of agricultural knowledge, Robertfon is but little fu-
perior to the lervant, who conducts his bufmefs ; he is filled with prcju--
dices, and is .-even- ignorant of many things, which in Europe are conii-
dered as the A B c of- hufbandry.^

He appc^:s, however, to be far more fkilful, as a 'miller^ His mill,
which is faid to be the fiiit that was built in America, is/worked by a
rivulet, -called WhTahiccon, which turns twenty^five . other mills, before'
it reaches Robcrtibn's. It has three water-courfes, and three ieparate
mills, two of which work for the manufactory, as they call it, and one
for the public.- The latter grinds all the corn which is brought hither,
without the leaft alteration : of the mill-flones, in its palling from the
grain to the flour ; which naturally renders the meal very indifferent :
the miller's due is one tenth, according to the law of the land. RO-
BERTSON does not grind any Indian corn on his own account, nor has he ;
any kiia:to dry it. Meal from this corn is not bad, if fpeedily ufed ; but
it is not fit for being long kept, and yields but little.

The corn is brought hither in waggons, and the cranes, irrftead of
turning it out of the veflel, kit it .up from the waggons into the granary ;
which is very fmall; and the corn lies in heaps, the feveral floors being
^ low^ dark and dirty.

Robertfon grinds yearly from forty-five to about fifty thousand

* This indifference to improvement, of which the Duke complains, is always to be
obferved while agriculture is in its infancy, in a country, and while tiiere is enough of
land, but Tittle accumulated ftock. It is the chara&eriftic of a particular ftatc of fo-
ciety ; and does -not originate from the accidental and peculiar caufes, to which he afcribes
it. Tranflator,

bufliels

8 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

buihels of cp,rn, which he procures from Virginia and New-York ; and
fome is even brought from the upper parts of Pennfylvania. There are,
however, fo many mills along the Schuylkill,that he receives but little from
that part of the country. The grain procured from the other fide of the
bay comes by Philadelphia, from which it is brought to the mill, which is
large enough to contain about ten thoufand bufhels. Six horfes are con-
ftantly employed in carrying the meal to Philadelphia, and bringing back
corn in return. This journey is often performed twice a day. The
water of the Wiflahiccon is never frozen, nor does the mill ever ceafe
working, except in a cafe of the utmoft neceffity. Mr. Robertfori
employs about his mill five men, three of whom he pays ; he gives one
hundred and twenty dollars a year to the firft, and eighty to each of the
other two. The reft are apprentices, who receive nothing but victuals,
clothes, &c. A barrel of flour is at this time * worth ten dollars. Ro-
bertfon complains of the quality of the grain of laft year, which, he
lays, is not heavy, but in general hollow. I have, however, feen fomc
very good grain of laft year. I heard him fay that grain, attackediby the
Heffian fly, notwithftanding it becomes bad and hollow, yields flour,
which, though fomewhat indigeftible, is not quite unwholefome. The
banks of the Schuylkill were vifited laft year by great numbers of thefe
flies.

The county-rates are the fame at Roxborough as in the whole diftricl:
of Philadelphia, of which this place forms a part, namely, from five to
fix Shillings per cent, upon all property. The other taxes have of
late been reduced to little or nothing. A perfon in affluent circum-
ftances pays but pjae or two fhillings towards the repair of the high-
roads. Poor-rates are quite unknown, as there are feldom any poor in
the country ; and a fmall mm has been laid up in the bank for the fup-
port of the poor, if there fhould be any; which ftock yields annually
about forty or forty-two dollars, and thefe are added to the capital. There
is alfo a moderate tax of fix or feven fhillings on every hundred pounds a
man is worth, which he pays as an offering towards the public fervice of

* Twentieth of April, 119$.

the

BY THE DUKS DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT; . $

the ftatc,' that he may remain lindifturBed in the enjoyment of his pro-
perty. And this is fix miles from Pliiladelphia^-furely this mufl be 3,

happy country.*

The Wifllihiccon flows between hills, which are high and covered
with wood. A fine water- fall of about fcven or eight feet, and as broad
as the bed of the rivulet, fupplies Robertfon with more water than
would be required for turning many more mills. The banks of the rivu-
let bear a wild and romantic appearance, and the brook, winding in the
rnotl: beautiful meanders through the woods and rocks, forms a grand,
yet gloomy, profpecl, which catches and detains the eye, and difpofes
the mind to penfive reflection. The various fituations of this fublunary
life prefcnt to us the fame objects in very different points of view. How
different are the impreffions I now feel, from the pleafing fen/ations with
which memory and hope once enlivened my fancy but 1 will depart,
and be happy, that I may not enhance my misfortunes by painful re-
flections.

From Roxborough we proceeded on to Springmill. After having left
the banks of the Schuylkill, we travelled through a tracl; of countryxin-
terfecled by a regularly alternate fucceffion of hills and valliesj ' We
found here &veral badly watered meadows, which are capable of great
improvements. The farms here arc very clofe to one another; all the
land is cultivated ; very little wood is to be feen, at leaft, without going
to a defiance from the highway. As we proceed, the country becomes
extremely beautiful. The corn-fields are now green, the leaves begin to
fprout forth, and the fruit-trees are covered with bloffoms ; all nature re-
vives, her face glows with life and beauty ; and my temper has not yet
attained fo great a degree of apathy, as to render me infenfible to the
charms of this feafon, which always captivated me with irrefiftible power.

* It k the proportion between, en the one hand, what may be gained in every foliation,
with the dlverfity of fuch fituations and, on the other hand, what is to be paid for public
protection) with the degree of fecunty and comfort fuch protection may give ; which is
the ible and precife point upon which an eftimation like that which the Duke here

C Yet

!O TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

Yet the uninterrupted and high fences of dry wood greatly disfigure the
landfcape, and produce a tedious famenefs. Thcfe might be eafily re-
placed by trees which endure the froft, as thorns are fuppofed here (I
think without any juft ground) to be unfuitable to the climate. Some
of the fields along the road are bordered with thaga. or cedar, but thefe
experiments are rare; and, in general, the land is inclofed with double
fences of wood. The country is covered w T ith neat houfesj furroundcd
with painted railings ; which indicate profperity, without reminding us
of thofe European eftates, which are either enriched by a refined agri-
culture, or ornamented with coftly and elegant country-feats.

Near Springmill we again faw the Schuylkill. Springmill confiits of
eighteen or twenty habitations, which lie clofe to each other, and are-
moftly either farms or mills ; it is fituated in a valley, far more extenfive
and fpacious than any we have hitherto paiTed ; and the foil is alfo fu-
perior. The greateft part is grafs land, extending as far as the river ;
while the opposite bank, fteep, woody, and even fomev. hat rocky, forms-
a beautiful contrail with the charming plains of Springmill. The prof-
peel: up and down the river is extenfive, and ilrikingly variegated by
green meadows and dark mountains.

Springmill is the place, where is fituated the farm, mentioned by BRIS-
SOT in his travels, as being cultivated by a Frenchman, whofc ilcill and
philo-fophy he highly praifcs. This Frenchman, of whofe name BrifTot
gives only the initial, is Mr. LEGAUX. His farm has been fold on account
of his inability, to pay the fccond installment of the purchafe-money..
He now a&uallyj rents fifteen acres, which he has converted into a vine-
yard. But the prcfent moment is by no means the time, in which vine-
yards appear to the greateft advantage ; the vine fearcely begins to bud,
and is almoft without life. The foil is very good, and, as far as we were
able to judge, well chofcn, both on account of its funny fituation and
interior quality ; and the clcanlinefs, as well as fkil-1, with which the
ground is managed, is very remarkable. No kitchen-garden can be in
better order ; the vine-props are already fixed in the ground. The fifteen
acres give employment to fix labourers, whom Mr. Lcgaux procures

without

BY THE DUKE DE LA llOCHfiFOUCAULT LIANCOUKT. 11

'without much trouble ; he pays them three fhillings and nine pence, and
provides them victuals. His dwelling is a fmali {lone cottage, one ftory
high, about twenty feet in breadth and ten feet deep ; a very indifferent,
dirty kitchen, feparated by a wainicot partition from a real alcove, which
contains a miferable bed, conilitutes all the apartments of this cottage.
In the fmall room were jumbled together in one confufed heap, books,
furniture, papers, glafles, bottles, and philofophical inflrumcnts. The
fight of a man of liberal education reduced to fuch penury, excites a
painful ienfation.i -V't

Mr. Legaux was not at home on our arrival ; \ve were informed that
he was in Philadelphia, as, no doubt, we were fufpected as unwelcome
vifitors. He was, however, at a neighbour's ; and we had no fooner left
his houfe to remount our horfes, than we were called back, and he haf-
tcned up to us. To an unfortunate man, reduced to iuch a ftate of re-
tirement, the vifit of three Grangers is an occurrence not to be flight-
ed. He knew that one of the three ilrangers was a Frenchman, for J
had left my card* The view of a countryman at fo great a diftancc
from our native land, is far more pleafmg than that of any other perfon.
It is fo at leaft to me, though the pleafmg fenfation I feel on fuch occa-
fions, is frequently embittered by the thought, that at this unfortunate
period of the revolution a Frenchman is fometimes the very worn: com-
pany which a Frenchman can meet.

Mr. l^egaux accofted us with a countenance which apparently be-
fpoke content. His drefs perfectly correfpondcd with the reft of his
eftabliihment. A long coarfe flannel waiftcoat, black breeches, and
blockings full of holes, and a dirty night-cap, formed his whole attire.
He is a man of about fifty or fifty-five years of age V? his eyes are very
lively, and his whole phyfiognomy indicates cunning rather than goodnefs
of heart. In the courfe of the fhort converfation we had with him, he
told us, that the cruel and rigorous conduct of the perfon of whom he
had bought the eftate, which he pofleifed at the time of poor Briu'bt's
vifit (this was his expremon), had compelled him to fell it again, and to
rent the fmall vineyard which he was now cultivating. He confiders the

C2 fuccefe

12 TRAVELS IX NORTH AMERICA,

fuccefs of this enterprize as certain, and thinks that it will prove very
lucrative to him. He allured us that his wines are already very good,
though the oldeft of them had not yet been in the cellar more than two
years. They are Medot vines ; and one vine of the Cape of Good Hope,
for which he paid forty guineas, has already produced nearly two hun-
dred layers. He faid that his wine is of a peculiar flavour, yet more like.
the " vin de Grave" than any other w r ine. He pays a rent of ilxty-two
dollars for his fifteen acres. This is, in few words, the fubftance of all
we could learn concerning his plantation. On our alking him why he
fettled in America nine years fmce ? he acquainted us that he was an
advocate in the parliament of Metz, but left his fituation and his coun-
try to afTift his friend, Mr. FOULQUIER, in his functions, as intendant o/$
Guadaloupe, and that this intendant having been ftrongly fufpecled.of
mal-adminiltration in the colonies, had exculpated himfelf by throwing
all the blame on him, Legaux, whofe purity of fentiments had ever been
equal to his zeal for his ungrateful friend. None of his expreffions be^-
fpoke that tranquillity and peace of mind, w T hich a man might be fup-
pofed to enjoy who thus withdraws from the world to lead a fequeftcred
life, and cultivate the ground. He even appeared dhTatisfied with every
one, especially with the Americans, of whom he repeated twenty times
that we could never entertain too much fufpicion. Although this man
received us kindly, and fpoke many handfome things of my family as- well
as of myfclf, afTuring me that he had heard a great deal about me pre-
vioufly to my leaving France, yet I was difplcafcd with him, and he ex-
ritcd in me rather difapprobation of what he termed his misfortunes,
than compailion for his prefent fituation, though my frame of mind was
much in favour of the latter. What I heard concerning him, on my
return to Philadelphia, has confirmed me in my opinion. He is a worth-
lefs, litigious man, who, during the nine years he has refided in America,,
has been engaged in upwards of two hundred law-fuits, not one of which
he has gained. However ftrong may be our prepofTeffion againfb America,
it is highly improbable that juftice Ihould'fo obftinately be denied to a fo-
reigner. On the contrary, it is much more likely that a man who has en-
tered

"*> *

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. '13

tered or defended two hundred actions, muft have been actuated folely by
a' litigious difpofition, and that none of his claims were well grounded;
efpecially if he himfclf conducted the fuit, which is extremely probable, as
he was formerly a lawyer. Mr. Legaux's reputation at Philadelphia is not
ot the beft complexion, and I verily believe that if an enquiry were made
into the affairs of Guadaloupe, the refult would not prove favourable to
this fage, this philanthropi-ft, this philofopher,. (on whom poor Briifot pafles
fo high an eulogium,) who cannot live in peace with his neighbours, but
quarrels with every one about him^

We left the Sclmylkili by Springmill, to ftrike to^the Ihorteft road to
Norris Town : the land is of the fame defcription. with that which we
hadjuft pafledv On the road from. Roxborough to Norris Town we had
now and then a view of the river, and at times alfo of a, more diftant range
of {mall-hills, rifn-ig in the form of an. amphitheatre ; this is a branch of
the Vattty-hllh, w r hich form a part of the Blue Mountains..

NorrisTown is the chief town, of the county of Montgomery, about
fcveii miles from. Philadelphia, This chief foiv.n of the couniy confifls of
ten buildings, in onejof which the feffions are held - r in: another the judges
refide when they come to hold the affixes ; a third is-the county jail ; three
(others are inns ; the reft are farm houfes> fliops,. or habitations of labour-
ers. All the houfes are ftron-gly built of {tone. Norris Town, fituated
on an. eminence, about a quarter, of a. mile from the Schuylkill, en:-
joys a- grand, and. very cxteniivc profpecl ; and forms itfelt, even viewed
at a diftance, a very linking and confpicuous object. The quarterv
icffions are held here regularly, but the circuit- courts only once a year,
and at times only every two or three years, when there are no cauies.
The jail was built about two or three years ago,, after that of Phila/-
delphia. But, thanks to the penal code of Pennfylvania, it is feldom
inhabited by any other perfon than the keeper. When we vilited it, t a.
Frenchman was confined there on llrong fufpicion of having forge.d a
bank note: he is to remain, in this prifoa until the next quarter-feffions,
\vhen he will be cither acquitted or removed to Philadelphia, unlefs the
circuit fhould happen to be held, in that. town. The priibn-gate was _*

14 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA-,

open, and the prifoner might have erFeded his efcape without any diffi-
culty, had he been the lean; inclined to do fo. But he did not efcape,
either from a reliance on his innocence, which I wifh may be the cafe,
or from the rifk of being taken again. It is no ealy matter to difcover
the neceffity, nay, the utility of fuch confidence as this, which is more
nearly allied to indolence than humanity. It isjuft as difficult to affign
a reaibn why a Frenchman, who is a villain, or at leaft a man of fo bad
a character as this prifoner, who in France would have attempted twenty
times to efcape from prifon, yet remains quietly in Norris Town, where
the doors ftand open to him. Pretenders to philofophy, and Briflbt for
one, will fay, that the certitude of impartial juiticc being adminiftered
to him, retains the prifoner more effectually in his prifon than fetters ;
that in a republic every one confiders himfelf as the guardian of the law,
even againft himfelf, &c. All this may fatisfy thofe who are contented
with words, but is not fufficient to explain this extraordinary facl to him
who prefers found argument to unphiiofophical jargon. It may perhaps
befl be accounted for from the circumftance that this man would find it
impoffible to fubfift any where elfe but in prifon, j 0^

The foil about Norris Town is very good, which is here fomewhat more
the objecl of culture than near Roxborough, yet is not even produced here
in great quantity, The fyftem of agriculture is much the fame, and the
average produce nearly the fame, perhaps fomewhat greater. The beft land
is worth from forty-eight to fifty-two dollars ; the inferior fort from
twenty-fix to thirty. Labour is cheaper here than at Roxborough and
SpringmilL The price of provifions is lower than in Philadelphia,
though not much ; there being no nearer market than that town, all
the produce of this country is carried thither. Beef is fold at, from fix
to feven pence a pound, bacon at one milling a pound, and flour five
one-half dollars the hundred weight.

The county-rates of Montgomery amount to no more than about
three millings for every -hundred pounds, and one milling towards the re-
pairs of t'.jc roads ; thus a per centage of four Shillings on all taxable pro-
perty is die total amount of the public taxes, Poor-rates are feldom ne-

cciTary,

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 15

ceflary, though this place is not pofleffed of the fame resource of a fund,
eftablifhed for that purpofc, as lloxborough. There arc at prcfent no ^
paupers here ; and when there are,, a rate of one {billing is fully fufficient j *
lor their maintenance. Each pauper is boarded in fomc family or other,
and his board and lodging are paid for by the parifh. It is the duty of
the overfeers to take care that the pauper be well treated, and that the
parini be not impofed upon by improper charges. All the poor confift o
perfons afflicted by iicknefs, or rendered incapable of labour by old age.

The canal, intended to join the Schuylkill with the Delaware, begins
at Norris Town, and half a mile of it on this fide is completely finiflied^
Its bed, which was parallel to the river, is about eighteen, or twenty feet
in breadth, and three feet deep. The canal is opened about three miles
farther. Here marble rocks are to be cut through, which flope down to> ^
the river. This is a laborious, as well as very expenfivc, undertaking ;,
as every cubic toife of rough ftone cofts nine Shillings, and fifty work-
men only are employed in this work. The canal, when finiihcd, will
be of great advantage to Philadelphia ; but w hen w ill it be fmilhed ! It
is begun near the town on a very bad plan ; in fome places it is filled up
with land that has been warned together to the height of ten feet, whichb
tan never keep water. It is reported, that Mr. WATSON, an English en-
gineer, who fuperintcnds the conffoufcion of this canal, very particularly
recommended that it might be dug on the oppoihe bank of the Schuyl-
kill, as it w T ould be much more folid there ;. but as it was much to the
intereft of the directors of the company, that the canal iliould pafs
through their eilates, they w ere deaf to every other propofal,. and the
canal is now executed on the moft difficult and moil: circuitous plan,
with little profpecl: of fuccefs. The money for conftructing the canal,
began already to fall fhort of the fum required, and feveral fubfcribers
kept back their fubfcriptions beyond the limited time of payment, even
at the hazard of forfeiting the fum already paid, as well as all claims to
the advantages refulting from the completion of the canal, rather than
they would incur the riik of finking a further fuin, when; the legislative
power, apprifed of the obftacles which obftrucled the completion of the

work.

l(j TRAVELS IN" NORTH AMERICA,

work, granted a lottery to raife a (urn of four hundred thoufand dollars,
intended for the execution of all practicable plans of inland navigation,
one hundred and thirty-three thoufand dollars of which are -to foe appro-
priated to the completion of the Schuylkill canal. If the meafure of a
Kate lottery can ever be justified by the vaft utility of the objccl to which
the money it produces is applied, it certainly is fo in the prefent inftancc,
But among a corrupt people, crimes and vices are generally cncreafcd by
the inftitution of a lottery ; andean the legislature of Pennfylvania flatter
rtfelf, that it will not eonfiderably add to the corruption and immorality
of the inhabitants by an eftabliihmcnt fo extremely dangerous, and of
\vhich a very immoderate ufe has already been made in America?

After having viewed the canal, as far as it is at prefent fmimed, we
vifited the quarries which yield the marble, of which nearly all the
chimney -pieces in Philadelphia, as well as the ornaments of many ilreet-
doors, flcps before the houfes, and windows -are formed. This marble is
black and white, and very hard. It is found in great abundance in the
quarries, which have hitherto only been opened in thefc places, and not
to any great extent. It is, however, true, that we faw the principal quarry
only, and that many others have been opened in the neighbourhood.
We were even told of a quarry where the marble is all wtiitc, but it was
at too great a diftance to be vifited by us. That which we iaw is in the

T35 .

diflricl: of Plymouth, wriere: there is alfo a mill with two faws for cutting
marble, -which lies on the nvialet Plymouth. The mill contains nothing
worthy of -notice, but its Situation is extremely picturefque and pleafant.
The whole trad: of country from Norris.Town to within one or two
miles from Roxborough, is covered with lime-Hone, more or lefs perfecl.
The ftrata are moftly inclined, forming an angle of forty-five -degrees,
and in fomc places interfpcrfed with hard quarry-ftone, and even with
flints. We found in the road a great quantity of hard (tone ; a quarry,
or variety of the granite -ftones, which contain about three or four
cubic feet, fcem to be wafhed up by the water. Between Roxborough
and Philadelphia granite is again found, and the earth is covered with
mica.

^Y TIIK DUK2 DE LA ROCftEF0VCAUT L1ANTCOURT. If

We arc again in the fame inn, at which we put up before. The land-
lord is making a well, and the ground, where they are digging it, being
very loofe, he lines it with a large wooden cylinder, five feet in diameter.,
and within the cylinder conftruds a wall eighteen inches thick.j -^ \

May theftth, 17Q5.

From Norris Town to Trap the country is much varied, very hilly,
highly cultivated, with little wood-land, many orchards and meadows,
w r ater in abundance, brooks, fprings, and creeks of every fize ; two of
the latter, w r hich are by no means fmall, we forded, namely, the Shipack,
eleven miles from Norris Town, and the Pachiomming, two miles far-
ther on ; they were both fomewhat deep. The roads are very bad, and no
attempts are made to repair them ; we cannot, therefore, be furprized at
hearing, that fo many ftage-coaches are overturned.

Trap is a village in the diftricl: of Providence, which is the largefl and
rnoft affluent in the whole county. The foil, which is very good, is
cultivated in the fame manner as in other places ; more land lies m^grafs
here, than we have feen any where fmce we left Philadelphia. There
are four different churches in this diftric% where, as in all the other flates,
the minifter is paid by thofe only who belong to his feel:. The Speakers
among the people called Quakers are the only ones who preach gratis.
The manner of paying for divine fervicejis the fame as in Philadelphia ;
people pay for their feats in the church.

The provifion produced in the diftricl; of Providence is fold in the
market -of Philadelphia. The taxes in this diftricl:, as well as in the
county, amount to about eighteen pence for .every hundred pounds of
taxable property, with the exception of the poor-rates. The poor arc
rather numerous in this diftricl:, and fix hundred and forty dollars arc
railed yearly for their fupport. The common price of labour is three
Shillings and fix-pence a day, with board ; and the price of land fluctuates
between thirty -two and forty-feven dollars per acre, in proportion to the
ilate of its inclofurcs, cultivation, and buildings. Bread made of rye or

D Indian

18 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

Indian com is the common food of the labourer, who, in addition to
this, has meat three times a day.

We arrived at Trap, and intended to dine at Pottfgrove; but we were
under the neceffity of returning by the fame road we had come. The
fervant, who mould have joined us an hour before, did not arrive ; and as
we knew this delay muft have been occafioned by fome accident, we.
were determined to learn what it was. We met him about a mile from
Trap, leading both his horfes by the bridle, but without the baggage,
which had fallen off four miles farther back, and our poor Jofeph being
unable to procure any affiflance, and fuppofmg that we mould be uneaiy
on his account, had left it in the care of a woman, and had proceeded
thus far to inform us of his misfortune. We therefore returned the other
four miles, and placed the baggage again on the horfe, but in fo indiffe-
rent a manner, that after we had travelled two miles, it was again likely
to fall off. Mr. Guillemard, taking every thing into confideration, con-
vinced us, that the horfe was too heavily, as well as unfkilfully laden,
and we therefore refolved to procure a waggon, to convey our baggage
to the inn.

During our ftay at the inn, to which we returned, we learned, in the
courfe of converfation with a furgeon, that the number of gentlemen of
his profeffion is pretty confiderable in this diftricl ; that one is to be met
with every fix or feven miles ; that their fee for a vifit at the diftance of
two miles, is one milling, and every additional mile adds one milling more,
befides the charge for medicines; that inoculation of children for the fmall-
pox is very common ; that the fee for this operation amounts to two dol-
lars ; that the moft a phyfician of known abilities can make, in. this part
of the country, is one thoufand three hundred dollars a year, but that
very few make fo much, in confequence of which, all medical men, with
few exceptions, follow fome other employment befides their profef-
fion, and become either farmers or mop-keepers, to increafe their in-
come.

Although the inn, at which we put up, was not that which had been

pointed

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 1<)

pointed out to us, and was, in fad:, no better than a fmall, miferable ale-
houfc lately opened ; yet we met with very good accommodation. We
had tea and coffee for breakfaft ; bacon, tongue, and eggs for dinner, and
every thing tolerably clean. Whilft we were contriving the means of
fending our baggage to Reading, the flage-coach happened to pafs, and
took charge of it : we then continued our journey to Pottfgrove.

The road thither is exactly of the fame defcription with that between
Norris Town and Trap. The ground where it confifts of fand, is good,
but extremely bad where the foil is rich, having been entirely foaked
through by the rain, which fell the day before yefterday ; the foil con-
fifts, in general, of a ferruginous earth, particularly near Pottfgrove.
The landicape is beautiful along this road, abounding with a great variety
of fine views, wonderfully enlivened by the verdure of the corn-fields
and meadows. We patted through fome parts of the country, where the
grafs was fine, ftrong( and thick, in Ihort, as good as it could poffibly be.
If agriculture were better underftood in thefe parts ; if the fields were
well mowed and well fenced ; and if fome trees had been left ftanding in
the middle or on the borders of the meadows, the moft beautiful parts
of Europe could not be more pleafmg. But thefe eternal fences of
dead wood, thefe dry maize-ftubbles of laft year, thefe decayed trees,
which are left ftanding until they are rotten, and the abfolutc w r ant of
verdant trees in the corn-fields and meadows, greatly impair the beauty
of the landfcape, but without being able entirely to deftroy its variety
and charms.

The country about Pottfgrove is ftill more pleafant ; the plain, in
which this fmall market-town is fituate, is more extenfive than any we
have hitherto feen, and, at the fame time, is in the higheft degree of cul-
tivation. The forejl-mountains, which are in fight on the left and in
the front, form beautiful borders to this landfcape.

In the neighbourhood of Pottfgrove we again difcovered the Schujl-
kill, which we had left near Norris Town. Along its whole courfe its
banks are delightful, and all the land, through which it pafles, is good. I

D 2 do

20 TRAVELS IN N011TH AMERICA,

do not know a finer river in point of water and views. If" European tafte
and magnificence adorned the banks of the Schuylkill with country-
feats, it would not be excelled either by the Seine or the Thames.

Pottfgrove is a market town, and originally laid out by a quaker- fa-
mily, of the name of POTT. About forty years ago they purchafed land
of the ftate at a very low price, and fold it afterwards at a confiderable
profit, according as it was more or lefs fought after. It is now worth
thirty dollars in the town, and from thirty to thirty-feven in the adja-
cent country. The family of Pott have eftablimed confiderable iron
forges, and by means of thefe much increafed the fortune, which they
acquired by the fale of the lands. They are generally fuppofed to be
very rich. Poltfgrove confifts at prefent of about thirty well built
houfes, and belongs to the diftricT: of Douglas, which forms a part of the
county of Montgomery. The poor-rates are very inconfiderable, and all
neceffaries of life are cheaper here by nearly half than at Philadelphia,

As I alighted from my horfe, I difcovered a Frenchman, among the
feveral perfons who were {landing at the door of the inn, by a certain
characteriftic deportment, which is eafily difcernible in individuals of all
nations, but more particularly fo in a Frenchman. An involuntary move-
ment, fome natural feeling, drew me towards him. His name is GER-
JSIER ; he is a nephew of the celebrated advocate of Paris, by \vhom he
was brought up, and the fon of a famous advocate at Rennes, of whom
he has received no intelligence during thefe laft ten months. In St.
Domingo, where he refided formerly as a merchant, he married a Creole,
a friend and fchool companion of Madame de MONTULE* with whom
he lives in one of the houfes of this borough.

It is impoffible to meet with a Frenchman in thefe times, without being
called upon to liften to the hiftory of his loiTes, his misfortunes, and to his
refentments naturally refulting from them. Mr. Gerbier's account of his
misfortunes, however, was very Ihort, though they appear to me very
great. As to his refentment, he exprefled himielf on this point as a
man of fenfe, who wiihes not to entertain any* He feemed melan-
choly

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 21

choly and dejected, yet polleffing a ftrong mind. Misfortunes, borne with
patience and refignation, are ever fure to excite companion : I heartily
fympathife in thofe, which have fallen to his lot. He porTefTcs a fmall por-
tion of land in Afylum, whither he intends to remove, as foon as his wife
has recovered from her lying-in. He fpoke with much praife of M. de BLA-
CONS, of the excellent Mr. KEATING, of M. DE MONTULE, and of Du
PETIT THOUARS. He appeared to me a mild and worthy man, but rather
too much deprcfled by misfortune] ; for, at his age,, and with his abilities,
he might find numerous refources in this country. After he had left me,
he received a letter from his mother, a lady turned of feventy. She in-
formed him, that me and his father were both well ; that they had fortu-
nately efcaped the dreadful guillotine, the drownings and fhootings.,
which would ever difgrace the French revolution ; that they could not
fend him any money at that time, but that they would pay any fum, for
which he chofe to draw on them. This wife and fenfible Better was
written, however, in the language of liberty. The poor young man was
happy to perceive, that I participated in his joy ; and yet this glimpfe of
fun-mine was not able to difperfe the profound melancholy which cloud-
ed his mind. I muft obferve, that Mr. Gerbier's mother, in the defcrip-
tion which me gave of the fituation of France, fpoke of great diftrefs,
and efpecially of the depreciation of affignats, which was fo great,
that a fowl coil two hundred livres in paper money, and three livres in
fpecie.

The inn at Pottfgrove is very good ; it is kept by a German. The in-
habitants of this borough are moflly Germans. Here we found the ftage-
coach, by which we had fent our luggage ; but the letter-cafe, which
contained Mr. Guillemard's money, had been left behind in Trap.^ En-
deavouring to think of every thing, my travelling companion) thinks,
in fact, of nothing. Thus we are obliged to fend back to Trap, to fetch
the letter-cafe, even if it be not ilolen, a point which we {hall learn to-
morrow at Reading.

02 TRAVELS IX NOHTII AMERICA,

On Thurfthy, the 1th,

We flopped at the White Horfe, four miles from Pottfgrove. This
inn is kept by a Frenchman, a native of Lorrain, who has married an
American woman, the daughter of a native of Avignon, by a woman
from Franche-Comte. The whole family fpeak bad Englifh and bad
French, but probably good German. They pay a rent of eighty-fix dol-
lars for fifty acres of land and the houfe ; their owner lives very near,
and keeps a fhop. The houfe and the land, which is of very good qua-
lity, would have been worth fixty dollars more, had it been let to a pri-
vate family. But the iliopkeeper had very juftly calculated, that a good
tavern fo near his houfe was of more value to him than fixty dollars, and
that a well frequented inn could not but procure cuftomers to his fhop,
from whom he would be likely to derive advantages far exceeding the
'ium which he thus facrificed.

The good people of the inn enquired with much eagernefs for news
from France. My friend told them, that it would be obliged to fuftain
another and more dreadful campaign. " How ! a flill more dreadful one
than the preceding campaign/' they exclaimed, " notwithstanding the
Englifh were beaten laft year ?" " There are many other enemies," re-
plied my friend, " Ruffians, Auftrians." " Aye, aye," faid the good
people, " all thofe who do not like liberty ; but the French will never-

thclefs triumph, if it pleafe God, over all the f ." Thefe are the

fentimcnts, and fuch is the language of moft Americans ; and indeed
this muft be the opinion of all, who are not acquainted with the crimes
attending our revolution ; and even they who are fb, very juftly im-
pute them to the various factions, and carefully diftinguim and fepa-
rate them from the caufe of liberty. The principles and conduct of the
coalefced powers are treated with the fame degree of indignation as thofe
of the terrorists. The lefs informed clafs of men confider the matter in
this light, and, in facl, in this light it Ihould be confidered by all, who are
able to lay afide for a moment their grief and their misfortunes, and to

contemplate

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHKFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 2$

contemplate the true nature of the cafe with a calm, unbiased mind.
Liberty is now ftruggling with defpotifm. If the caufe of liberty prove
triumphant, it will be able to organize itfelf, and to acquire regularity'and
order ; it will ceafe to be anarchy, and become true national freedom.
If defpotifm triumph, it will organize itfelf for no other purpofe, but to,
enflave the world.

The fituation of this borough, and like wife of all other places on the
road from Pottfgrove to Reading, is delightful. Indeed the country ap-
pears to become more lively and populous, the nearer we approach the
latter town. Corn and faw mills are numerous here ; and there are
many creeks with flrong currents, w r hich turn the wheels of fome iron-
forges. The mountains, which rife on the banks of the Schuylkill, and
feparate Reading from the other part of the county, begin to form a
ridge, which at firft ftretches along under the name of Oley Hills, and
afterwards takes that of Lehi-hill. Thofe marks of the increafmg im-
provement of the country, which are obfervable as far as Bethlem and
the Delaware, are alfo perceivable here. Log-houfes, conftru&ed of
trunks of trees, laid one upon another, the interfaces of which are filled
up with clay, are feen no longer, having been replaced by framed houfes,
confuting however of balks, properly hewn and fhaped, and covered with
boards ; and even buildings of a ftill better conduction are already to be
feen in fome parts. They now build only with ftona and brick, and no-
woodland remains to be converted into arable ground. The wood that
is ftanding is left for confumption. Oak fells at three dollars and half,
and hickory at four dollars and half a fathom. A few miles from
Reading the price of land is from twenty-five to thirty dollars, if covered,
with wood ; and from one hundred and ten to one hundred and thirty
dollars if grafs-land. Day labourers receive three (hillings, carpenters and
mafons four (hillings a day.

We overtook the ftage-coach again at the White Horfe, where the
paflengers breakfailed. It appears fomewhat ftrange to Europeans, to fee
the coachman eat at the fame table with the paiTengers ; but it would;
feem equally jftrange to Americans, to fee the coachman eating by himfelf,.

jU TRAVELS m NORTH AMERICA,

It is futile to argue againft the cuftoms of a country ; we muft fubmrt
Equality, pretended equality, which widely differs from true freedom,
is the foundation of this cuftom, which, in fad:, injures nobody ; it is
for the fame reafon, that the fervants, who wait at dinner or breakfaft,
are feated, except while they are ferving you, and that the landlord at-
tends you with his hat on his head. A jnan may be allowed to diflike this
cuftom, without poffemng any extrayagant mare of weak pride. An
inn-keeper, a fhoe-maker, a taylor, are naturally at liberty to wait on
people, or to let it alone ; but if they choofe to wait on others, they
mould keep at a proper diftance, and obfcrye the re-fpecl:, which becomes
their fituation. It muft be obfeTved, however, that many an inn-keeper
in America is a captain or a major ; nay, I have ieen drivers of ftage-
coaches, who were colonels : fuch things are very common in America,
There is much greater propriety in the uftom that prevails in Eng-
land, where the tradefman is treated- with politenefs and refpecl: by his
employers, whilft he, in return, -obierves the due decorum of his fitur
ation, without meanly facrificing that noble principle of liberty, which
every Englimman cherimes with confcious pride 4 it will foon be the
fame in France.

Reading, the chief town of the county of Berks, which contains
about thirty thoufand inhabitants, is fituate on the banks of the Schuyl-
kill. The building of the firft houfes commenced in 1752. The fa-
mily of Penn repurchafed the land, which they had originally difpofed
of, for the purpofe .of building on this fpot the chief town of the
county. It confifts at prefent of about five hundred houfes; a few
of thofe which were firft built are ftill {landing ; they are log-
lioufes, and the intedlices between the trunks of the trees are filled up
with ftone or plafter. In confequence of the flight manner in which
they were finimed, feveral of them have tumbled down ; vanity has
pulled down others ; but all thofe built within thefe few laft years are
of ftone or brick, and have a neat appearance. The town is improving
in point of buildings ; the ftreets are broad and ftraight, and the foot-
paths are fhaded by trees, planted in front of the houfes.

Little

Bt Tilt DUKSf DE LA ROCHEFOtfcltfLT LtANCOURT. 2$'

This town has little or no trade, and fcarcely any manufactures. There
is one, at which a confiderable number of cioarfe hats are fabricated of
wool, procured from Philadelphia, to which place the hats are fent for
fale ; with a few tan-yards, which prepare leather for the confumption of
the town and neighbouring country. The population of Reading is ef-
timated at about two thoufand five hundred fouls, confiding chiefly of
lawyers and inn-keepers. Some new honfes were built in the courfe of
laftyear ; but no increafe of the number of inhabitants has been obferveJ
for feveral years. They are all either Germans, or of German defcent ;
great numbers of the inhabitants of the town and neighbouring coun-
try do not underftand a word of Engiifh, and yet all the public acts,
and all the judicial proceedings are drawn up and conducted in the Eng-
lim language. Hence it often happens, in the courfe of law-fuits, that
the judges underftand no German, and the parties, witneffes, and
jurymen, no Englim, which renders the conftant attendance of in-
terpreters necefTary, to repeat to the judges the depofition of the wit-
nefles, and to the jurymen the fumming-up of the judges. The ad-
miniftration of juflice is therefore extremely imperfect. Many law-
fuits, however, having no other object than to fatisfy the hatred and
paflion of the moment, by dragging an adverfary before the judge,
both parties are frequently fatisfied with the fentence, of whatever
complexion it may be. How many differences might be fettled oa
amicable terms, but for this revengeful difpofition to proceed to extre-
mities, which prevails in all countries, and enfures to lawyers a certaitt
fubfiftence ; or rather how many law-fuits might be accommodated,
but for the great number of lawyers and courts of juftice I Law-fuits
are very frequent in Reading, and originate chiefly in debts, quarrels,
and aflaults.

There is a printer in Reading, who publishes a German gazette
weekly ; the price is a dollar a year. The fale extends as far as Pittf-
burg, and does not exceed one thoufand one hundred copies. Every
one here, as well as in all other parts of America, takes an intereft ia
ftate affairs, is extremely eager to learn the news of the day, and dif-
cufles politics as well as be is able,

E There

20 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

There are three churches in Reading ; one for the people called
Quakers, another for Roman Catholics, and the third for Lutherans.
The two laft are much frequented by Germans, in whofe native lan-
guage the fermons are delivered. Every one pays for the fupport
of that form of wormip,; which he has chofen for himfelf, fre-
quently without attending "ft, which is to his tafte, to which he is
accuftomed, or which fome whim or other moves him to prefer.
Generally fpeaking, few men go to church, 'at lead few of the
firft clafs. Religious wormip is left chiefly to the women, who,
forming the leaft buly clafs of mankind, are the moll affiduous fre-
quenters of the theatres and the churches. The Lutheran church
is much reforted to in the morning, and the Roman Catholic ier-
vice in the evening. The minifters, who are paid by fubfcription,
receive about four. hundred dollars per annum. Being without political
importance., and confined to their ecclefiaftical functions, they are reli-
gious, humane, and tolerant. If their conduct were otherwife, their
parishioners would change them juft as readily as withdraw their em-
ployment from a Shoe-maker, who Should make bad Shoes. They live
in perfect harmony with one another. The fermons delivered in the
different churches are chiefly of a moral caft. Lutherans, Roman Ca-
tholics, and Quakers intermarry with each other. Mr. READ, the
gentleman to whom we had a letter of introduction, has ten children,
two of whom only have been baptized ; the reft are left to choofe
their religion for themfelves, if they think proper, when they arrive
at years of difcretion.

The fortunes of thofe, who are accounted people of property in
Reading, are in general moderate. n An income of eighteen hun-
dred or two thoufand dollars a yearf is deemed large ; and at leaft a
part of fuch incomes is always earned by fome ufeful employment.
Here are indeed fome gentlemen poSTeSTed of large property, but then
this has been generally obtained by commerce, or elfe accumulated in
the town itfclf by dishonourable means, namely, by buying up, at a
low price, demands againft poor fmall proprietors, and driving them
from their poSTeflions by judicial proceedings. The number of people,

who

BY THE DUKE DE tA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 2/

who have made fortunes in this manner, is not great ; yet there cer-
tainly are about three of them in the town, who poflefs capitals amount-
ing to two hundred and fifty or three hundred thoufand dollars.

The fentiments of the inhabitants of this town and the neighbouring
country are very good, and breathe a warm attachment to the federal
government. There is no democratic fbciety. Reading fent about
eighty volunteers on the expedition againft Pittfburg, forty of whom
were equipped to ferve as cavalry. They all belonged to rich families,
and were engaged in bufmefs ; but either their own zeal, or the influ-
ence of their relations, impelled them to devote themfelves to the pub-
lie good. In confequence of this public fpirit, a fociety has been
formed at Reading, called the FIRE SOCIETY,* the members of which
enter into an obligation to keep at their common expence two fire en-
gines, and each at his own expence two buckets, a baiket, and a fack^/
and to attend at the firft alarm of fire. This fociety, which refembles
that of Philadelphia, and many others of the fame defcription, which
are very common all over America, fpares government an expence,
which otherwife it would be obliged to incur, and enfures a more fpeedjr
afliftance to fufferers, than any public inititution could poffibly afford.
It will perhaps be faid, that this fociety originated from the perfonai
intereft of every individual member or fubfcriber : be it fo; for what
elfe is public fpirit, but private intereft properly underflood ?

Some public buildings, fuch as a large houfe for the different officers
of the county, and the archives, a prifon, and a feffions houfe, have been
very lately built at the expence of the county. The taxes are very
fmall. Of three lawyers, with whom we palled the greateft part of
our time at Reading, not one could inform me of the exact total amount
of the taxes, but they all agreed, that they are very inconfiderable^ or
next to nothing. The county- taxes and poor-rates, taken all together,
may perhaps amount to about fixpence in the pound, or a fortieth part
of the yearly income. On particular occafions, or when publie build-

* The eftabliihment of a company for infurance from lofs by fire, may be expected
to follow next, in the progrefs of improvements at Reading.- Tranjlatvr.

E 2 ings

28 . TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

ings are to be erected, they are doubtlefs higher, but never fo high as
to take from a rich man more than twelve dollars a year.

There are weekly two market days in Reading, and the market is
well fupplied with provifion. In fuch diftricts as lie near the market,
the price of building-ground, two hundred feet in depth, is twenty-
five dollars per foot ; in lefs populous parts of the town only ten dol-
lars. The rent for large convenient houfes, at fome diftance from the
town, amounts to one hundred and fifty dollars. The price of land is
about twenty-two dollars an acre, and near the town from thirty- two
to thirty-fix dollars. Meadows near the town coft one hundred and
fifty dollars. A great number of them belong to the family of Penn
in right of purchafe ; for it is well known, that all lands and tene-
ments, which this family held in fee, were redeemed by the ftate, on
granting indemnification more or lefs adequate to their value.

The Schuylkill does not flow through the town, but at a diftance of
about five thoufand paces. A project is formed for extending the town
to the bank of the river, and it will certainly be carried into effect, as
foon as the canal, which is to join the Schuylkill with the Sufquehan-
nah, fhall be finifhed, a part of which is already completed. Reading
will then become a confiderable ftaple for inland traffic. A tolerably ex-
tenfive corn-trade is already carried on here. In winter, when the na-
vigation is obftrudted by ice, the neighbouring farmers, who happen ta
be in want of money, bring their corn to town. The wealthy inhabi-
tants buy it at a low price, lay it tip in granaries, and fend it to Phila-
delphia as foon as the river is navigable, as it is, in general, for vef-
iels of one hundred or two hundred tons burthen, except when it is
frozen .

The banks of the Schuylkill are exquifitely beautiful near Reading,
indeed more fo than in any other part of its courfe. On the fide oppofite
to the town arifes a range of richly cultivated hills, covered with as-
many houfes as can be expected in this country. Beyond thefe heights-
are mountains of more confiderable elevation : and beyond thefe are
feen the lofty fummits of the Blue Mountains. The whole form a

profped

BY THE DUKE DH LA KOCHliFOUCAULX LIANCOURT. 'flf)

profpeft at once pleafmg and fublime. A great number of brooks run
into the Schuylkill, and turn many paper, faw, platter, and oil-mills in
the vicinity of Reading. The inhabitants of the town are temperate,
induftrious and prudent people. A tradefman clears as much money
in a few years, as enables him to buy a plantation in the back coun-
try, where he either fettles himfelf, or fends one of his children. Per-
fons who quit Reading and its vicinity generally retire to the country
around Sunbury and Northumberland.'^ Some poor Germans from time
to time arrive here from Europe, get rich, purchafe a plantation, and

retire.

They marry here very young. Few women remain unmarried be-
yond the age of twenty years : and marriages are very fruitful. The
mortality among children is, upon an average, much lefs here than
in Philadelphia. The country is healthful. Perlbns grey with age are
numerous, and epidemical difeafes rarely break out. Living is cheaper
here, by one half, than in Philadelphia*

We had letters to MeiTrs. Read and BRIDLE, and cannot fpeak with
fufficient praife of the handfome reception we experienced from thefe
gentlemen. They anfwered all our queilions with a degree of patience
as obliging on their part, as it was advantageous to us. The day we
flopped at Reading was fpent at Mr. Bridle's, where we found Mr.
Read, Judge RUSH, brother to Dodor RUSH of Philadelphia, and Pre-
iident of the diftricl:, General ROVER, who, during the lair, war, ferved
conllantly under La FAYETTE, and holds now the place of Regiftrar,
Mr. ECKARD, an actuary, and Mr. EVANS, who is a lawyer as well as
Meffrs. Read and Bridle. The conveifation was pleafant enough. It
conilantly turned upon the political fituation of Europe, of which every
one will talk, and which is rightly underftood by none. But it is the
topic of the day, to the difcuffion of which we mud: fubmit. Excel-
lent principles of government, a warm attachment to France, abhor-
rence of the crimes which have been committed, and fervent wifhes
for her welfare, formed the prominent features of the converfation.
Several very acute and judicious obfervations on the fubjeft of England

were

30 I'll AT ELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

were made, which did not befpeak great partiality for that country.
The gentlemen fpoke with euthufiafm of WASHINGTON, with gratitude
and efteem of La Fayette, and, in fhort, difplayed the moil laudable
feelings. During a walk we met fome ladies, who, to judge from the
manner in which their attendants conducted themfelves, mufl be of
very little importance in fociety. Mr. Bridle, who, without faying
a word, gave us tea in the evening, feemed fcarcely to have eaten his
dinner.

The civility of our friends in Reading was not confined to a kind re-
ception ; they alfo offered us letters to gentlemen at Lancafter, and in
other places on our road, which, though we were already provided with
a tolerable number, we accepted with the fame fatisfaction as they were
offered. fekllf*

One of thefe letters procured me an introduction into the farm of

Angelico. I was defirous of being more accurately /acquainted with
the ftate of agriculture and husbandry about Reading, which, in Phila-
delphia, had been pointed out to me as the moft perfect in all Pennfyl-
vania, and I therefore wifhed to converfe with one of the bed informed
farmers ; Mr. EVANS had been named to me as fuch. He fuperintends
and manages the farm of Angelico for Mr. NICHOLSON in Philadelphia,
who bought it three years ago of Governor MIFFLIN. This farm,
which lies three miles from Reading on the way to Lancafter, con-
fifts of nine hundred acres, four hundred only of which have hither-
ta been cultivated, and fifty of thefe lie in paflure. From fixty to
feventy acres confift of the fineft meadows, fome of which are fown
with clover. They are watered at pleafure, partly by the Angelico, a
fmall brook from which the place takes its name, and partly by a very
copious fpring, which waters fuch parts as are not within reach of the
Angelico. The grafs is fine, ftrong, and bumy, and the only care taken of
it confifts in a flight irrigation. The reft of the land is under the plough,
and produces wheat, rye, buck-wheat, oats, and Indian corn, but with-
out any fixed rotation of crops. The land is of the beft/quality, being
a rich clay, from twenty-four to twenty-eight inches deep. Some places

arc

BY THE DUKE fcE LA ROCIIEFOTJCAULT LIANCOURT. 31

are ftony. More or lefs manure is laid upon the foil every three
years. From four to five [cart-loads of dung, about fifteen hundred
weight each, are generally allotted to an acre ; but the dung is far
from being in a ftate to anfwer the intended purpofe. The produce
of the firft year, after the ground has been cleared, is .twenty-five
bufhels of wheat, forty bufhels of rye, forty bufhels of barley, eighty
bufhels of oats, twenty-five bufhels of Indian corn, per acre. It would
produce confiderably more, if the wood were felled in a more careful
manner, and the ground fomewhat deeper tilled. It is the cuftom, and
confequently the general opinion, that the ground muft not be ploughed
deeper than four or five inches. I have converfed with Mr. Evans on
this fubjecl:, who could not help allowing, that the above opinion is
erroneous. He was entirely of my way of thinking ; but it is the
cuftom, and that has more weight than the cleared reafoning. Newly
cleared land fometimes produces better crops after the fecond and the
third year's tillage, than at the firfl ; and this generally happens when
the ground has not been cleared with fufficient care. The ufual pro-
duce of this land is ten bufhels of wheat, twenty of rye, twenty of
barley, forty of oats, and eighty of Indian corn. This diftricl: has not
furTered from certain infects, called lice, which occafion fometimesjcon-
fiderable mifchief to the crops ; nor had the Heflian fly much damaged
the corn here. The plough- fhare is of iron ; it has but one broad fide
bent towards the right. It is ill contrived, and turns up the ground very
imperfectly. Two horfes are able to draw the plough in a pretty ftrong
foil. The work of the farm is performed by five men, fix horfes, and
twelve oxen. Mr. Evans's wife and children manage the bufinefs of the
houfe, of a pretty confiderable dairy, and of the poultry-yard, which is
much better flocked with fowls than American farms ufually are. The
butter which is not confumed in the houfe, is fent in winter to Phila-
delphia ; but in fummer they make good cheefe, which is fold for ten-
pence a pound. The corn is either fold in Philadelphia or Reading.
Mr. Evans fattens fome oxen, but their number does not exceed eigh-
teen, though he poflefles feventy acres of meadow land; thefe oxen,

together

3'i TRAVELS Itf NORTH AMERICA,

together with his twelve cows and fix horfes, confume almoft all his
bay, for he fells very little. He keeps it in barns, and fometimes in
flacks made after the Englifti manner, hut fo very badly, that they ge-
nerally tumble down. Every acre of meadow, if mowed twice a year,
yields from three to four tuns of hay, 4 and the price of this article Was
laft year fourteen dollars a tun.

Mr. Evans keeps no more than forty or fifty fheep. This fmall num-
ber affords an additional proof of the prejudices, which prevail in this
country ; " to keep many of them," Mr. Evans obferved, " would be
the certain means of lofing them all." On my mentioning to him the
example of England, he faid, ' I know all this, but it is the cuftom
here, and a wife cuftom it is ; for our neighbour, Mr. MORGAN, who
would keep more, and had a good mepherd from Europe, loft them all.
We do not wifh for more than are neceflary to fupply us with wool for
our own cloathing, and that of our people, and on that account keep no

more."

The fiate of agriculture is here exactly the fame as in the remoteft
provinces of France. Prejudices, maxims handed down from father to
fbn, ufages, ignorance, and confequently obftinacy, govern every thing.
The fheep are tolerably good, and yield excellent wool. Before I faw
them, I afked the fhepherd, whether the wool was fhort or long ? he
anfwered, " that it grew longer towards the time of (hearing it." I
explained to him the meaning of the terms, long and mort wool, the
difference between the fheep which produce it, the different purpofes
they are fit for in the manufactories, and, confequently, the reafons
why, in different parts of England, one fort of fheep is kept in pre-
ference to another. He liftened to me, and replied, " of all this we
know nothing here." It is the cuftom not to keep a ram upon the
farm ; they enquire where a good one may be found, and- either hire
him or fend the ewes to him. Mr. Evans fattens his oxen with hay,
and flour of Indian corn, of which he allots to each, twice a day, fix
quarts, or fix-fixteenths of a buihel : his oxen are tolerably good, but
not remarkably fo. In my prefence he fold feventeen, which were all

BY THE DUKE DE LA. BOCHSFOUCAULT tlANCOUttT. 33

he had at that time, and among; which was an old bull and a fine cow.

For thefe he received nine hundred and fix dollars ; the cow alone cod
forty-two ; me was three years old, large fized, of a good fort, and was
bought for breeding in another part of the country.

Turnips for feeding cattle are cultivated only in gardens like pot-
herbs, to the extent of a quarter or half an acre. The cultivation
of cabbages and turnips in the fields is unknown. Potatoes are
planted in great abundance. The art of getting good dung is as little
known here as all other branches of agriculture, which require the lead
judgment. J There is no hole in the farm-yard to collect the dung; no-
thing is done to improve it by the urine from the different {tables, or
to prevent the rain from wafhing away its ftrength ; it lies in the farm-
yard in large heaps, does not rot, but is entirely dried up.

In other refpedls this is one of the fined eftates that can be defired.
The foil, the fituation, and every thing confidered, leave nothing to
wifh for 1 but a more fkilful cultivation, of which it is as capable as any
other fpot in the world. In point of profpedl and pidturefque effect, its
fituation is charming, being in a large, delightful valley, which is well
watered, and furrounded by a multitude of the moft pleafant hills,
partly cultivated, and partly covered with wood.

A faw-mill forms a part of this eftate ; it is conftantly employed
either for the ufe of the eftate, for the pofTeffor, or the public. The
price of labour is three millings for one hundred feet of plank. The
mill has but one faw, though there is a fufficient quantity of water
for at leaft three. This water, which can be difpofed of at pleafure,
might very conveniently turn feveral other mills, and thus encreafe both
the value of the eftate, and the induftry of the country ; as the pro-
duce is fure to meet with a ready fale eithejrjin Philadelphia or Reading.
The fences and farm-buildings, which Governor Mifflin left in very bad
condition, are now repairing, and will foon be in very good order.

Mr. Nicholfon pays Mr. Evans, who accounts to him for the out-
goings and expenditure, but who has not yet remitted him any money.
He intends, undoubtedly, by this management, to put the eftate into a

F good

34 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

good condition, and to raife its value beyond that which landed property
has hitherto acquired in America. At this time a bufhel of wheat fells
for fifteen (hillings, Indian corn for three (hillings, and oats for five (hil-
lings. Labourers are eafily procured here in fufficient number for all
the purpofes of agriculture. From the account I have given of this
eftate, it is evident, that its value would be very confiderable, if it were
better managed.

The five hundred acres, which lie uncultivated, fupply the necefTary
timber for repairing the houfe and out-buildings, and alfo wood for
fuel ; which, as I have already mentioned, is fold at Reading from
three and a half, to four and a half dollars per cord, according to the
quality of the wood. The expence for felling, cutting it, and car-
rying it to Reading, amounts to one 'dollar two- thirds. Mr. Evans
is of opinion, that this tract of land (hould neither be cultivated, nor
the wood fold for fuel, becaufe the trees, if fuffered to grow, encreafc
the value of the land far beyond what it can be worth, if applied to
any other ufe. I know not how far he may be right. To form a cor-
rect opinion on this fubject, it would be necefTary to traverfe the wood,
to be acquainted with the wants and cuftoms of the country ; and be-
fides, it is well known, that in France, where the management of woods
is fingularly well underftood, the rearing of trees is deemed one of the
moft difficult arts.

My friend, Mr. Guillemard, who is more fond of his bed, and lefs
partial to farms, than I am, fufJered me to leave Reading fome hours
before him ; he overtook me at Angelico, and thence we entered
upon our journey to Lancafter. There is no public conveyance yet
eihbli(hed by the ftate between Lancafter and Reading, though thefe
are both confiderable towns. The ftage- coach goes from Reading to
Harrifburg, fituate on the Sufquehannah, and on the road to Pittfburg,
Another ftage-coach goes from Harrifburg to Lancafter, which forms
a circuit of eighty miles ; though, by the direct road, the diftance is
only thirty-one miles. There is, indeed, a poft, which goes twice a
week from Bethlem to Lancafter, and pafTes through Reading, but is

BY THE DUK.E DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LlAXCOURT. 35-

of no ufe to travellers. This poft,^which makes a journey of eighty
miles, frequently arrives without bringing one (ingle letter ; every thing
evinces, that the country is yet in an infant ftate, but mews, at the fame-
time, that it is proceeding, by large and rapid ftrides, to a ftate of con-

iiderable ftreiwth.

The country between Reading and Lancafter abounds with moun-
tains and vallies. The former are not high, but run in ranges. The
vallies are chearful, well watered, abound 'with fine meadows, and arc
tolerably well inhabited. Almoft all the inhabitants are Germans, or,
at leaft, of German defcent. The greateft part fpeak no other language
than German. The houfes are fmall^and kept in very bad order ; the
barns are large, and in very good repair. The general appearance of
the country, which is very rich and pleafant, refembles that near the
Voghefian Mountains, except that here the mountains are not fo high.
We continually meet with brooks or creeks,Kwith numerous mills
and a luxuriant verdure. The road is tolerable, except in fome places,
where it is miry, or rough with ftones. Four miles from Lancafter the
hills decreafe in height, and two miles from the town they terminate
in a plain.

On our way we flopped at Ephrata, where we vifited the DUNKERS,
a fort of monks well known in America by the folitary life they lead,
though their number is but final 1. We had a letter to Father MILLER,
the Dean of the fociety. The houfe, which is built of a very indiffer-
ent fort of flone, and badly roofed with laths, is the reudence of feveral
hermits, the remains of iixty, who formed the fociety about forty
years ago. A few yards from this houfe ftands the nunnery of the
order, which contains ten or twelve nuns, fubjeft to the fame rules.

The venerable Father Miller is an old man, not far from eighty years
of age. His eyes {till fparkle with a degree of fire. ,and his imagina-
tion is ftill lively. Our curionty led us to enquire/after the inftitutiou
of the houfe, and the doctrines of the order. Father Miller fatisfied
this curiofity in a manner the moft tedioufly diffufe, by giving us a mi 1
irnte account of every point, however trifling, of the dodrine and hif-

F 2 tory

3(5 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

tory of the Dunhrs. This hiltory is a tifTue of abfurdities, like that
of all monks. A ridiculous compound of ambition, and of the deiire
of infulating themfelves apart from the {late, is common to them all.
The Dunkers were infKtuted in the fame place where they at prefent re-
fide, by oneQ^ T RAD PEYSEL, a German, who, however, foon perceived,
2 well asthemfeves, that the life of an anchorite is neither the moft plea-
i'ant, nor the mofl ufeful in the world. He collected them into a fociety,
and conducted them to Pittfourg, which, at that time, was a wild, unin-
habited place. The prior, who fucceeded Peyfel, intended, according to
iome, to fubject his monks to a flricler difcipline ; but, by the account
of others, he propofed to accuftom them to a wandering life ; diiTen-
fions arofe among them, and they palTed fome years in a ftate of con-
'tinual difagreement ; they then difperfed, and afterwards united again..
in the fame place where they were firft eflablifhed. The old monk
told us, that they obferve a ftrict rule, and live with the utmoft fruga-
lity ; and that a communion of property is obferved among them with-
out the leafl fupremacy, or any other diftmdtion whatever ; he told us,,
that he goes himfelf to church regularly at midnight. Theyjhave
made the vow of poverty and chaftity ; there are, however, fome, who
marry, in which cafe they quit the houfe, and live with their wives
elfewhere in the country. Others leave the houfe without marrying ;
but thefe, Father Miller obferved, violate, by fo doing, the oath they
have taken ; yet they cannot be profecuted for want of a law to that
effect. They wear a long gown made of grey cloth for the winter, and
of white linen for the fummer, tied round the waift with a.. {trap of lea-
ther. They let the beard grow, and deep on a bench, " until," fa id
Father Miller, " they deep in the grave," This was his expreffion.
The fpirit of the prefent age, and the country they inhabit, being,eq.ually
averfe to a monastic life, Father Miller perceives, with as much certainty
as concern, the impending diiTolu.tion of his order, which has fome other,
eftablifhments in one or two counties of Pennfylvania. As to the doc-
trines of the order, they are a medley of the mod abfurd tenets of tha
fts, Univerfalifts, Calvinifts, Lutherans, Jews, Methodifts, and

Re-man

BY THE DUKE D" LA ROCTIEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 37

Roman Catholics. 7^ c y lament the fall of our rlrfr. parent, who*
would rather have for his wife a carnal being, Eve, than let the celeftial
Soph ia, a being thoroughly divine, bear a child. She would have com-
municated only with the fpiritual nature of Adam ; and thus a race
would have been engendered all pure, and without the leaft corporeal-
ingredient. They lament the indulgence, which God (hewed in regard
to this defire of Adam, who acted on this oecafion as brutes might do.
However, God, according to their do&rine, has merely deferred the pe-
riod of this flate of perfection ; it is certainly to arrive, and the D tinkers,
forefee the time, when, after the general relurrecYion, the divine Sophia
will defcend into every one of. us. All this is to their fancy as evident-
and clear as the Song of Solomon!" We wafted nearly two hours in>
liftening to the idle prate of the old monk, who was happy to -enter-
tain us on this fubject, and particularly enraptured at the idea, that the,
Sophia would defcend into him.

Another monk of the fame order, whom we met with, feemed to be.
lefs imprefled with this hope. He was a printer, a man of thirty years.
of age, who had lived thirteen years in this houfe. He told us, that
the discipline of the order is by no means fo ftricl:, as the old monk pre-
tended ; that they divide their earnings only if they choofe ; that they
live juft as they pleafe, and dnnkjcoffee and tea.. He did not appear fo.
enthufiaftic a friend to the vow of chaftity as Father Miller ; and to our-
queftions, whether many brothers married,. and whether they were fup-
pofed to offend by fo doing, anfvvered, " that many did, and that, in,
his opinion, they acted rightly ; " for," faid he, *' are not -women truly
charming ?" Before we left Father Miller, \vhofe accounts the infor-
mation of the young monk already mewed to have greatly exaggerated
every thing, we had an opportunity of convincing ourfelves, that he
had misdated even the particulars of their way of living ; for we found
in a room, contiguous to his, a nice feather-bed, in which, he could
not help confeffing, he flept fometimes, and in which, by the afTer-
t ion. of the young Dunker, he fleeps every night. Ju the church.

w-e.

3"8' TRAVELS IN NORTH AMEEIOA,

we found a place as much diftinguifhed from the reft, as that of any
prior of a convent of benedictine monks can be. .Monks are every
where the fame men, and live by deceiving others; they are every
where importers : in Europe, and in America, men are the fame, when
placed in the fame lituation. r In point of furniture and outward appear-
ance the houfe bears a near refemblance to a capuchin convent, dif-
playing every where an oftentatious poverty by half-hidden beds of
down. We did not vifit the nunnery, as we fhould have met there
only the fame follies, and the fame naufeous filth ; beiides, the nuns,
being old, could not in the lead intereft our curiolity, and we knew
already enough of thefe Dunkers. They are a good-natured fort of peo-
ple, they live upon the produce of an eftate of three hundred acres, in-
jure nobody, are laughed at in the country, and yet tolerably well be-
loved.

The foil between Reading and Lancafter is full of fmall lime-ftones,
and ilates, which are frequently found of a very large fize. Near .
Lancafter the quantity of lime-ftone encreafes : the whole country
abounds with iron-mines; and the iron-works, which are very nume-
rous between Bethlem and Reading, become more ftrikingly fo between
Reading and Lancafter, though many of them do not ftand near the
road. We intended to vifit the iron-work of Mr. COLMAN, one of
the moft,confiderable in the whole diftrict ; but finding that it was too

.muca out of our road, we relinquimed the defign. All we could learn
was, that the workmen receive from eight to ten dollars a month, befides
feoard and lodging. The founder has five (hillings per tun. The price
of caft-iron is thirty Shillings, and of iron in bars forty millings a tun.
The high price of grain in this place is faid to have much lefTened the
profits arifing from founderies.

We had left the fervant, with the baggage horfe, at Reading, on ac-
count of his back being fore. My friend Guillemard intended at firft to
make the tour from Lancafter to Harrifburg without the fervant, and
to fend him by the ftraight road to Northumberland, but Jofeph wifhed

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCACLT LIANCOURT. 3Q

to fee Lancafter. Mr. Guillemard's kindnefs could not refufe him this
fmall favour ; he accordingly fet out for Lancafter fome hours after us,
and brought the horfe thither ; we had lefTened his burthen, at lead by
eighty pounds, and had fent feveral of Mr. Guillemard's effe&s to Phi-
ladelphia. 7'he pack-faddle had been mended, and yet the poor horfe's
back was ,worfe than before. This is an accident truly difagreeable,
and by no means unimportant ; for the difpofition of my fellow travel-
ler does not allow us t-o-hope afpeedy end to our furFerings. We muft
have; patience, a virtue of material ufe in all foliations, while on the
contrary impatience never ferves any good purpofe.

Lancafter, the \lth of May.

We reached Lancafter at nine o'clock at night, tn"e ufual fnpper-
time. The groom arrived the next morning with the difabled horfe. A
delay in Lancafter, while the cure of the horfe was effected, proved the
more unpleafant, as out of the twelve gentlemen, to whom we had
letters of introduction, threeonly were in town. General HAND, who
lives a mile from Lancafter, happened to be there. We accordingly
paid him a vifit, and faw him, as well as his lady and children. But,
by not returning our vifit, he gave us a pretty clear proof, that he was
not very defirousof our repeating it. Mr. Bridle, though in town, was
indifpofed ; and Mr. MONTGOMERY, to whom we had a letter from Mr.
Bridle, of Reading, was not at home, when we called at his houfe.
This concurrence of unpleafant circumftances led us to the firm deter-
mination of removing at once the obttacles, which, fmce our departure
from Philadelphia,- ''had obftrucled the execution of our plan. In oc-
currences of a more ferious complexion than this incident, experience
has convinced me, that the fuccours of the moment, with which irre-
folute and indolent people are fo well pleafed, far from actually clear-
ing the way of difficulties, merely places them at a greater diftance,
but, in facl, encreafes them. I was alfo fenfible, that it is by far the
beft and eafieft way, in all fimilar fituations, to do without every thing,
'which may prove troublefome. My friend Guillemard is determined,

40 TIlAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

'.to ad upon the fame principle; and we have refolved to reduce our
.baggage to what our three horfes can conveniently carry, and to fend
the reft back to Philadelphia. Thus relieved from ali uneafmefs, our
-minds will be more capable of receiving the new knowledge, which we
.fhall ufe every opportunity to collect* Here we gathered our informa-
tion from the landlord's family at the inn, where we had put up.

This inn, the Swan, has been kept by Mr. SLOW thefe thirty years.
-He was a man of very considerable property, but, fome time back, was
much reduced by misfortunes; having engaged in iron-works, and other
buunefs, he was defrauded, and nearly ruined, and found himfelf under
the neceffity of felling all the property he had acquired. Grief under-
mined his conftitution ; but his wife, pofTeifed of more fortitude, (as
women generally are) roufed his dejected fpirits. His honefty had never
been impeached, and his fituation in life, as innkeeper and member of
the aflembly of Pennfylvania, had made him known, and had obtained
him friends, who affifted him with money, and procured him credit.
One of them purchafed fifteen hundred acres of land, which he pof-
fefled near Wilkfbarre, on the Sufquehannah, and, when the bargain
was ftruck, told him, that he mould only confider himfelf as his
truftee, and return the land for the fame money. His circumitances
improved ; he has not only repaid the money for the lands near Wilkf-
.barre, which are again in his pofleffion, but has alfo purchafed others
near Northumberland, ^married one of his daughters, obtained commif-
iions in the army for two of his fons, and thus recovered his former
profperity. We had letters to him : he happened to be in Philadel-
phia ; but his wife and two of his fons were at home, who furnimed
us with, perhaps, as much information, as we might have been able to
procure, had we met with all the other per fons to whom we had let-
ters of recommendation-.

.Lancafter is the largeft inland town on the continent of America.
It (lands twenty miles from the Sufquehannah, and half a mile from
the Conawango, a large ftream, flocked with fifti, but not navigable.
This diftria was prefented to the family of Mr. WILLIAM HAMIL-
TON

BY THE DUKK DE LA RQCHBFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 41

TON, by the Penns, their relations. The town- began to be built in
1731, with a view of its being the chief of the county. The land is
not fold by the Hamiltons, but leafed out for a ground-rent, which
they have raifed in proportion to the encreafed demands, and the ri-
fing price of Jand in every place. As W. Hamilton has ftill^ a great
quantity of land left about the town, he difpofes of it in the fame
manner ; and his yearly income, compofed of unredeemable rents,
amounts at prefent to four thoufand dollars. During the war the
payment of thefe rents was collected with difficulty ; Mr. Hamilton,
as well as the family of Penn, belonging to the Tory party.

The population of Lancafter confifts of about fix or feven thoufand
fouls. Inftead of increafmg, it rather decreafes. at prefent, in confe-
quence of the continual emigration of fuch inhabitants, as by their in-
duftry have acquired a fufficient fortune, to purchafe lands in the lefs in-
habited diftrijfts of Pennfylvania, or in the moft diftant part of Mary-
land, and whom the high price of land, in the county of Lancafler,
prevents from fettling here.

Near the town, and even at fome diftance from it, the price of land
is at prefent from fifty to eighty dollars per acre. , V/ithin thefe laft
three years, it has been more than doubled. General Hand bought,
five years ago, the eftate on which he refides, two miles from the town,
for twenty- five dollars per acre, and has lately refufed one hundred,
which were offered him. Mr. Scott, fon-in-law of Mr. Slow, bought
lately an eftate, for which he paid one hundred dollars per acre. The
price of land has rifen nearly in the fame proportion throughout Ame-
rica, at leaft in all its 'cultivated parts.. Mr. Slow, about five years
ago, purchafed an eftate near Northumberland for -forty fhillings per
acre, and laft year fold it again for fifty-four (hillings. With the pro-
fits he purchafed a pretty little eftate, fituate half a mile from Lan-
cafter, between the road and the creek.

This eftate, which contains one hundred and ten acres, is npw in
a fine ftate of cultivation. About eighteen or twenty acres lie in grafs,
and form the mojft beautiful meadows ; twenty-five are covered with

O woodj

42 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

wood, and the reft are under the plough. He lays from twelve to fourteen
tuns of dung on each acre: no land lies fallow ; but he entertains the
fame prejudices as the reft of the farmers in favour of flat ridges, and
againft fheep. His fon, in whofe company I furveyed the eftate, con-
feffed, that the theory and practice which prevail in Europe do not agree
with the husbandry of the Americans, but he is neverthelefs zealoufly
wedded to their prejudices, and caufes them to be clofely followed, not
only on his father's eftate, of which he has the management, but alfo
on his own near Northumberland.

The land, in the environs of Lancafter, exceeds in fertility that in
the neighbourhood of Reading. An acre yields, upon an average, fif-
teen bumels of wheat, and other grain in proportion.

Every thing is much dearer in Lancafter than in Reading. Day labour-
ers are paid four millings per day, and are eafily procured. The inhabitants
are the fame good natured kind of people as at Reading, and equally la-
borious. In the town, as well as the neighbouring country, are a great
number of tan-yards, and many mills, from which the flour is fent
to Philadelphia in waggons. Returning, thefe waggons commonly
bring merchandize, which is expedited from this place to every part of
the back country. The road has hitherto been vefy bad; a turnpike-
road, which is about to be made, and which will probably be com-
pleted this autumn, will doubtlefs much facilitate and promote the
communication*. The mealmen feem already to familiarize themfelves
with the idea of paying an additional toll of two or three dollars, and
of providing larger wheels for their waggons. If the Sufquehannah
fhall be made navigable as far as Wright, an event that cannot be far
diftant ; the meal-trade will grow ftiH more confiderable in this diftricl,
at leaft until the projected plan of rendering the Suatara and' the Dela-
ware navigable, by means of the Schuylkill, ftiall be carried into effect.
In a recently fettled and free country, it is feldom poffible to come
at any certain refults of calculations, relative to trade and commerce-
Thus the number of waggons, which afe fent from Philadelphia to
Laueafter and the neighbouring country, with flour and other provi-

BY THE DUKE BE LA ROCHEFOUCAULD LIAN'COURT. 4-3

fion, is not -exactly known ; yet it is certain, that frequently from fe-
venty to eighty waggons pafs through Lancafter in a day, and it is ge-
nerally believed, that Mr. WITHINS, who fome years back, at his own
expence, built a bridge on the road to Philadelphia, a mile from Lan-
cafter, on condition of his being entitled to take a toll or pontage,
clears that way every year one thoufand fix hundred and fifty dollars,
the whole amount of the fum he laid out in con ft rucking the bridge. A
perfon on borfeback pays him two pence, and a waggon eleven pence,
though he has a right to take eighteen pence for the latter. The gen-
tlemen who have contra&ed for the conftru&ion of the turnpike-road,
are authorized by government to redeem the above toll or pontage, as
foon as the road mall be completed.

7'hough the number of houfes does not encreafe at Lancafter, yet
the town gains much in outward appearance. The houfes in general are
larger than in Reading, and conftrufted either of brick or ftone. Rent 7
is much the fame as at Reading. There are numerous quarries in the
vicinity of the town, which yield a quartzofe fch'ijl^ that is very hard,
yet eafily cut, but cannot be obtained in pieces of any large fize. This
ftone is fold by the rod, containing fixteen feet in length, eighteen inches
high, and eighteen wide ; the price is one dollar, delivered in town,
free from expence, and a quarter of a dollar to take it out of the
quarry. The turnpike-road has confiderably encreafed its fale.

The difpofition of the generality of the inhabitants of Lancafter is
of the fame good caft as that of the inhabitants of Reading. There ^?
exifts here, however, a democratic fociety, but it canfifts only of twelve
members, not five of whom ever attend the meetings. The enterprifc
againft Pittfburg, which no American mentions without confcious
pride, efpecially in thefe parts, where the militia bore a mare in it,
has ruined the Jacobin clubs and focieties. The difapprobation of the
Senate, the enquiry fet on foot by the reprefentatives of the people,
(notwithftanding the propofal of the committee, that they be repri-
manded, was not carried) and efpecially the citcumftance, that the
Prefident, who is generally efteemed asd refpecled, nay, revered to a

G 2 degree

44 TRAVELS IN XORTH AMERICA,

degree of enthufiafm in America, perfonally reprobated them,'have com-
pleted their defr.ruHon.

The city of Lancafter is furrounded with meadows, which are well
watered. It gave me much fatisfa&ion to fee a wheel, purpofely de-
figned to raife the water necefTary for that pnrpofe. The town itfelf is
rather dull. It has more the appearance of a city than Reading ; the
houfes fraud nearer each other, and are more numerous ; broad flone
pavements, run in front of the houfes, and the ftreets that are not _
paved, are at kail covered with gravel, and kept clean. The fef-
fions-houfe is a good building, neat and elegant, There are two or
three well built churches in the town. The number of places of wor-
fhip amounts, in the whole, to feven. The Swan inn is undoubtedly
better than any inn in Philadelphia ; lefs magnificent than the excellent
Englifh inns, yet of very fimilar defign ; none, at leaf!, can be more
cleanly, A great number of fervants are kept, and the family of the
laiidlord, whofe manners befpeak a liberal education, are generally re-
fpected, and enjoy that coniideration, which in all countries mould be
bcftowed on honed men, whatever their occupations, if not contrary to
morality. Innkeepers are here men of the firft rank. How many Euro-
peans would (hake their heads, were it fo in their own countries ! It is a
general cuftom in America, to dine with the innkeeper and his family,
and to conform to the dinner hour which he fixes. This cuftom,
which, at times, proves extremely difagreeable, is, on the contrary, very
pleafant in this houfe, for it is impoffible to meet with a family in all
America of fuperior breeding, or which forms a 'more agreeable fo-
ciety, than that of Mr. Slow.

One of the two fons, who holds a commiflion in the army, was at
home. He ferves in one of the regiments, whicji, under the orders
of General Wayne, act againft the Indians, and was wounded in an en-
gagement laft autumn, in which thofe people were repulfed by the
Americans. The particulars of this war are by no means interefling..
The Americans fpeak of the ignorance of the Indians, in. point of
tactics, with the fame contempt that the Englim exprefs for Ame-
rica !>'

BY THE DUKE DE LA KOCHEFOlTCAULT LIAXCOUHT. 45

rican tallies,, and the Pruffians, Auftrians. and French for the tac-
tical knowledge of the Englifli. All that I have been able to learn
of thefe Indians interefts me in their favour. The Americans are a
waging war againft them, in order to drive them out of a country,
which belongs to them ; and the Americans, who inhabit the frontiers,
are greater robbers, and more cruel than the Indians, againft whom it
is alleged as a crime, that they exercife the'right of retaliation. They
are, moreover, incited by the Englim againft the Americans, and be^
come thus, in their untutored ftate, victims of the ambition and dif-
eord of thefe two civilized nations* 'Captain Slow aflured me, that,
among the Indians (lain on the field of battle, many white people have
been found, who were Englishmen ; that many active officers on horfe*
back have been feen at the head of the Indians, who were alfo Englifh-
men, and that the Indian army is fupported by the Englim garrifons.
Thefe a (fort ions-, however, tend merely to prove the fupinenefs of the
Americans, both in regard to the Englifli and Indians. Captain Slow
allured me, that even in Kentucky, he never met with any land,
which, in point of richnefs, can be compared with the foil of thofe
parts, efpecially in the country, on the river Miami ; that the ft'raturri:
of vegetative earth is from twenty to twenty-five feet thick ; and that
the fields, in which the Indians have fown maize and beans, befpeak
a very careful cultivation, and promife the "richeft crops, that ever
came within his obfervation.

Before I conclude the article of Lancafter, I muft not omit to men-
tion two Frenchmen, who have fettled here from the French colonies
in the Weft Indies. The one is a miniature painter, who fells his coarfe
pictures for three guineas each, and contrives to vend many ; the other
is a very indifferent mufician, who charges three guineas a month for
his leffons, and has feveral pupils. At every ftep we take in America,
either in towns or in the country, it becomes more and more evident,
that any one may make his fortune, who will take the pains ; and no-
thing can afford a ftronger proof of the truth of this remark, than a
perfonal acquaintance with the crowd of foreigners, who enjoy the re-

putation

4@ TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

putation of being exceedingly clever, and who are amaiTing fortunes
under the aufpices of this frequently ufurped title.

In the inn, at Lancafter, I met with Mr. Brown, member of the
congrefs for Kentucky ; he was on his way to Philadelphia, where the
congrefs meets next, month. I lifted him a little refpecting the prefent
ftate of Kentucky. The refult of the information I obtained is, that
the foil is every where excellent, and frequently yields, for the firft har-
veft, from one hundred to one hundred and ten bufliels of Indian corn,
and from fifty to fifty-five bufhels of wheat an acre ; that the price of
land is fix dollars per acre, of flour eleven dollars per barrel, and of In-
dian corn, one-fixth of a dollar per bufhel ; that the population, which,
in 1790, confifted of ninety thoufand fouls, amounts at prefent to one
hundred and fifty thoufand ; that, in the courfe of laft year, twenty-
five thoufand perfons fettled there ; that the Indians attempt no longer
any inroads in that part of the United States, which, though occupied
the laft of all, advances more rapidly towards a flate of profperity than
any other diftri<5t in America.

From Lancafter we proceeded to May Town. The road from Lan-
cafter to this place lies chiefly through a woody tract of country, which
affumes a wilder appearance than we have hitherto feen. Cultivated
land appears more rarely as we proceed, except a few vallies, which ftill
lie in grafs, or are fown with Indian corn. In proportion as the diftance
from Lancafter encreafes, houfes of brick or ftone are lefs frequently
feen. We met with fcarcely any but log-houfes ; every where we
obferve German farms, fmall houfes, and large barns. Cows and oxen,
which feemed tolerably good, we found grazing in the woods and near
the road ; and alfo faw, at times, fheep, but never more than eight or ten
of them together. From their thicknefs, you would fuppofe the woods
to be no more than thirty years old : and yet it is highly improbable,
that new plantations mould have been made at a time when wood-lands
were every where converted into tillage- ground. Thefe woods, as
well as thofe which feem older, confift of oak, hickory, black am,
acacia, chefnut, cherry and apple-trees, a few fpindle- trees, fome ce-
dars,

EY" THE DUKE DE LA ROCHBFOUCAULT LTANCOURT. 47

dars, and Wey mouth- pines. Were it not for the known partiality of
man for whatever it is difficult to procure, it would be impoflible to ac-
count for the introduction of the Italian poplar into America, which
abounds in fo great a variety of beautiful trees, as may well excite the
envy of Europe. Great numbers of thefe poplars, which ierve for not
one ufeful purpofe, have been planted in America. They border all
the ftreets in Philadelphia, and all the roads about the town.

All the cultivated land between Lancafter and May Town is inclofed
with fences of dry wood, which fpoil the landfcape, and confume vafl
quantities of timber, though it already begins to grow dear. Sooner or
later this ufelefs wafte will certainly be regretted.

May Town is a fmall village, fixteen- miles from Lancafter, built
on a fpot entirely without water, where either chance, or the intereft
of a few individuals, threw togethe.r a dozen houfes, the number of
which has not been encreafed iince the origin of the eftablifhment,
and, to all appearance, never will be. This little village is inhabit-
ed entirely by Germans, who have ftill remained fuqh. Land in this
neighbourhood cofts twelve or thirteen dollars an acre, and is in a to-
lerable flate of cultivation.

The road from May Town to Middle Town becomes more dreary
and unpleafant as we proceed ; fix miles from the former place we
fell in with the fuperb river Sufquehannah, on a fpot where the ra-
pids proceeding from the Conawango render it unnavigable, or, at leafr,
the navigation fo extremely dangerous, that it is attempted but by very
few veflels. In order to free this navigation from all danger, which is
of the utmoft importance both to the prefent and 'the future wealth
and profperity of the country, a canal has been begun, which will run
half a mile d)ove and below thefe rapids, and thus keeps the navigation
open at all times for veffers to work up or drop down the river.
This canal, the undertaking of a private gentleman, to whom the flate
of Pennfylvania has advanced thirteen thoufand three hundred and
thirty-three dollars, and alfo granted leave to efiablifh a toll, is nearly
completed* Nothing remains to be conflructed but the locks, yet a dif-
ference

48 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

ference of opinion exifts as to the time of its completion. We intended
to view the canal ; but my fellow-traveller being a little indifpofed, we
were the more ready to give up this project, as from a view of the canal
we could not have derived any additional, or more exact information,
than we had already obtained.

The road from this place to Middle Town afTumes a wilder and more
romantic appearance at every frep we advance. The forefts and rocks
reach down to the Sufquehannah. A great number of trees, warned
looie by the water a long time ago, lie, half rotten, along the banks
of the river,; others lie rooted up, broken, or felled in the midfr. of the
wood, without its having occurred to any one, to life them for any be-
neficial purpofe ; and they have been fuffered to lie here, to be .taken pof-
feffion of by the firft comer. The oppofite bank is likewife covered
with wood, and bounded by mountains of no confiderable height. From
time to time we faw, through viftas naturally opening among them, the
Blue Mountains. The river is, in general, from two to three thoufand
fathoms broad, full of confiderable iflets, which are of an. irregular level
at -the furface, and encreafe the width of its bed. It is full three miles
broad, exclufive of an iftet in it, at the fpot where the Suatara falls into it.

Middle Town is feated on the latter, about half a mile diilant from
its confluence with the Sufquehannah, From the above-mentioned
rapids of the Conawango ufually interrupting the navigation on this
large river, Middle Town becomes the ftorehoufe of all the grain, which
is produced in the country fituate along its upper courfe, and not con-
fumed there. From one hundred and fixty to one hundred and eighty
thoufand bufhels of wheat are yearly bought up by the corn -dealers,
on the fpot where it grows, conveyed to Middle Town, and depo-
fited in granaries there. The millers of the furrounding country
ufually buy it here, grind it into flour, and fend it to Philadelphia.
The grand proje<St of inland navigation, for the execution of which the
government of Pennfylvania has granted a lottery, is defigned to join
the Suatara with theSchuylkill, by means of a canal of about fixty miles
in length, a third of which is already completed. In regard to that

part,

BT THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIAN'COURT. 40

part, indeed, it does not appear that the common welfare has been
chiefly attended to by thofe, who were entrufted with the management
of this important concern. When this canal (hall be finiflied, the flour,
which is now carried to Philadelphia by land-conveyance, will be
tranfported thither by water, with much lefs trouble and expence. The
carriage amounts, at prefent, from fourteen and a half to fifteen fhil*
lings per barrel.

The completion of the canal is much wimed for at Middle Town,
as the inhabitants hope to derive from it advantages, which muft en-
creafe in proportion as the diftricts, that fend their grain thither,
(hall become more populous, and confequently attain a higher flate of
cultivation. The banks of the Suatara, as far as we have feen them,
are truly delightful. This river, though called here but a creek, is as
broad as the Seine near Rouen. On the northern bank, from its mouth
up to Middle Town, {land fome alehoufes and warehoufes to receive the
grain, as it arrives. A little farther up fbnds the mill of Mr. FREY,
a German, advanced in years, who fettled here as a miller, about ten
years ago. This mill, which has four courfes, is of a happy and fim-
ple conftru&ion ; all the operations upon the corn, as well as the meal,
are effected by machines, with the fole exception of the bolting, which
is done nearly as in London, and at the Perriers', in Paris. The ma-
nagement of this operation is confided to a lad, who receives the meal
craned up in tubs, fpreads it out on the loft, and diftributes it among
the different meal bags. *' Mr. Frey," he faid, " is no friend of
Evans's machine; he does not like the conftruction." This was the
only motive I could learn. The mill grinds for Mr. Frey himfelf
about thirty thoufand bumels of wheat a year ; he fends the flour as
far as Newport. Four journeymen and one apprentice do the bufinefs
about the mill ; they are all Germans ; their wages are from feven to
ten dollars per month ; they feem fenfible and active people. Mr. Frey
keeps, independent of the mill, which alfo grinds com for the public,
a {hop in the city, which is about a quarter of a mile diftant. His

H houfe

50 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

houfe is the only (lone building in the town, which contains about
thirty houfes built with wood.

From its lituation and trade, Middle Town mould be the chief town
of the county ; but, in this cafe, Mr, Frey would have been obliged to
facrifice about three or four ground (hares for the erection of public
buildings, which he did not choofe to do, though he pofTefles a great
many (hares. Harrifburg is therefore become the chief town of the
county. The inhabitants of Middle Town and the neighbouring coun-
try, we may eafily conceive, are highly difpleafed with old Mr. Frey,
for having thus neglected the interefts of the town ; but he laughs at
them, becaufe he is rich, and grows daily richer, by felling them his
decayed {lores.

The price of land is here from twelnty-feven to thirty dollars. A
day labourer gets three millings and nine pence per day, and beef fells
at five pence per pound. The inn, where we took up our quarters, is
good; but on our going to reft, a ftranger entered our bed-room, ac-
cording to American cuftom, to go to bed, and we were told, that we
might think ourfelves extremely fortunate, that we were not obliged
to mare one of our beds with him.

Middle Town is diftant twenty-feven miles from Lancafter. Three
Frenchmen have fettled in this fmail place. One is a goldfrnith and watch-
maker, and is faid to have much bufmels ; another is a phyfician, and
earns likewife his fubfiftence ; the calling of the third I have not been
able to learn ; he probably affifts the other two inconfuming their earn-
ings. We have experienced here a fcorching heat,, and frequently two
thunder-ftorms in one day; the falling of rain always encreafes the
heat.

Wednefday^ the IMhofMay.

Mr. HARRIS, lord of the manor on which Harrifburg (lands, availed
himfelf of Mr. Frey's error, to procure his town the advantages, that
the former neglected. No fooner was it in contemplation, to form
tract of country, fepa rated from Lancafter, into a.diftinct county,

thaiv

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. SI

than he offered to the government of Pennfylvania, to facrifice not onlv
a toll on the Sufquehannah, of which he was poffeffed, and the profits
of which he lawfully enjoyed, but alfo feveral thoufand acres of land,
in and about the town, referving to himfelf only twenty ground mares.
This offer induced the government of Pennfylvania, to make this the
chief town of the county, though it has neither an anchoring place for
the {hips, that fail up and down the river, nor can afford them the
fmallcft fhelter. The new county obtained the name of Dauphin.
The firfl houfes were built here in 178.5 ; and their number at prefent
amounts to three hundred. The formation of this town beins: of a

more recent date than that of any other, the buildings were, from the
very firfr., of a better conftrudtion than any where elfe ; and fuch as
were not originally good houfes, have (ince been rebuilt. Very few
log-houfes are, therefore, to be found in Harriiburg : but, on the con-
trary, many fubftantial and handfome edifices ; and though this town
is fmaller, and of later eftablimment than Reading and many other
places, yet it is more compact, and has a much better appearance. A
malignant epidemic fever has made the fame havoc in Harriiburg, as the
yellow fever did in Philadelphia, and for a whole twelvemonth checked
the progrefs of building. As the fever did not return laftyear, however,
building is again going on ; but the prejudice of the town being infalu-
brious ilill remains, whether it be really fo, or, as the inhabitants affirm,
merely a fcandalous report, propagated by the jealoufy of the neigh-
bouring towns. The unhealthinefs of the place being imputed to the
flagnation of fome water, which was made to turn a mill, it was propofed
to the miller, to throw down the dam, and an indemnification was offer-
ed him. He demanded, laft year, four thoufand dollars; but this fum
not having beeti raifed foon enough, in his opinion, he this year raifed
his demand in proportion to the encreafed defire of deftroying his dam,
and infilled on the payment of eleven thoufand dollars. The inhabit-
ants, enraged at this exorbitant demand, and, at the fame time, ear-
neftly wi(hing for the demolition of the dam, unanimoufly refolved to
deflroy it, and appointed a commiffion, to award a juft indemnification

H 2 to

2 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

to the miller, which has been determined at the fum he firfl demanded,.
All the inhabitants feem to have concurred in this proceeding, which,
though not to be applauded, is lefs cenfurable, on account of the mil-
ler's enormous rapacity. The unanimity, with which this tranfaction
was accomplished, enfures its impunity ; and the miller will be cautious
of entering upon a profecution, as the grand jury would certainly throw
out his bill. He has no one to blame but himfelf for the deftruction of
his dam ; and the public opinion, which, by a more prudent conduct, he
might laft year have engaged in his favour, is now decidedly againft him.
Yet with many of the demolimers themfelves it remains a matter of
doubt, whether the demolition of the dam have any way increafed the
falubrity of the place.

A prifon and a feflions-houfe have been built at Harriiburg, and a,
plan is in agitation to form an anchorage for fliips. The inhabitants
exert their utmoft efforts, to procure to this place all the advantages of
which it is fufceptible, and even indulge a hope, that the feat of the
government of the ftate will be removed to their town. They form a
central point, at leaft for the population of Pennfylvania ; and are lefs
diftant from the remote weftern parts than any other county on this
fide the Sufquehannah, and on thefe local advantages they ground their
hopes. It is, however, to be wiflied, that their notion, of determin-
ing the feat of the legiflature by a pair of compaffes, may be confined to
men who cannot influence the decifion ; and that it may be rightly un-
derftood, how much better it is for the deputies to travel one hundred
miles further, than to remove the feat of government from Philadel-
phia, which is the mod populous city, and the only trading town
in Pennfylvania, and which confequently forms that ppj.nt, where the
beft information is in unifon with the moft important interefts.

The public expenditure, neceflary in this newly formed county,
caufes the taxes to be fomewhat higher than in the counties of Lan-
, carter and Berks ; the difference may be a milling in the pound. Un-
lefs you chance to meet with a commiffioner of taxes, the exact pro-
portion is not to be afcertained, as a general ignorance oa the fubjecl

every

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 53

every where prevails. The taxes, however, are generally deemed very
light, even by thofe who pay them, which is undoubtedly the flrongeft
proof that they are fo.

The majority of the inhabitants of Harrifburg confifts of Germans
and Irifhmen, firmly attached to government, fenfible, and induftri-
ous. The number of inns in America is out of all proportion to that
in Europe. This place contains no lefs than thirty-eight. It has
twenty-five or thirty (hops, where may be found all forts of merchan-
dize, procured from Philadelphia on twelve or eighteen months credit,
and of which the (hop-keepers rapidly difpofe at double or treble their
prime cofL

The price of ground-fliares in the town of Harrifburg is from one
hundred and fifty to two hundred dollars. The land in the furround-
ing country is good ; its price is from thirty-two to forty-eight dollars
an acre; day-labourers are paid here three Shillings and fix-pence a day
with their board, or five millings without it.

The Sufquehannah near Harrifburg is about three quarters of a mile
in breadth : in lummer it is frequently fordable. The navigation is
extremely dangerous for feveral months, in confequence of fome rapid
currents, and never fafe except in fpring and autumn, when the water
is fufficiently high to cover the rocks, which become more numerous
at the point where the Juniata falls into the Sufquehannah, nine miles
above Harrifburg, and greatly encreafe the dangers of the navigation.
The government of Pennfylvania has offered eight hundred thoufand
dollars for clearing the river of thefe rocks from the above point down
to Middle Town ; but hitherto no one has ventured upon this enter-
prize. I entertain no doubt, however, but that this vaft undertaking
will (hortly be accomplifhed, though the fnm hitherto offered may not
be fufficient, but muft probably be increafed. The induftry and pro-
fperity of Pennfylvania will, in time, overcome this, as well as many
other difadvantages, which have heretofore been deemed infuperable. A
Frenchman re (ides at prefent at Harrifburg, who was born in France,
but came hither from Martinico. He is a Phyfician, and though he

fpeaks

>4 TRAVELS IK NORTH AMERICA,

fpeaks but little Euglim, and has refided here only a few months, en*
joys already confiderable practice.

We had a letter to General HANNAH ; and as we intended to flop
here but a few hours, we delivered it as foon as we alighted from our
horfes. -General Hannah is a man of about thirty-fix or thirty-eight
years of age, and Brigadier General of the Militia. He was a member
of the Senate for Pennfylvania, but went out by rotation laft autumn.
Before he was engaged in the fervice of the ftate, he was a lawyer ;
but he has iince relinquimed that profeffion, and has commenced far-
mer. He has married a daughter of old Mr. HARRIS, the founder of
the town, and appears to be an upright, worthy character. Not being
prepared to give us a dinner, as we came unexpectedly, he offered to
attend us to our evening quarters, feven miles from this town, as fome
token of refpect for the letter of introduction which we brought him.
As our horfes wanted (hoeing, we were obliged to make him wait fome
time, which we pafTed in the true American ftyle, quaffing a bottle of
Madeira and fmoaking fegars. The general is not fond of them,
but prefers chewing tobacco ; yet, from motives of politenefs, he
fmoaked with us. Being at our lodgings we propofed as a toaft,
" the PRESIDENT," upon which he immediately gave, " LA FAYETTE."
I notice this trifling circumftance, to introduce once more the remark,
that La Fayette is conftantly toafled next to the Prefident, which, in
my judgment, reflects honour on America.

We took up our quarters at MAC ALISTER'S. General Hannah is
acquainted with him, and being informed of my wifh to collect authentic
agricultural information, he was defirous of introducing me to one of
thefe gentlemen, who are moft able to impart it. Mac Alifler is a farmer,
and, at the lame time, proprietor of a corn-mill, a faw-mill,a diftillery,
and an inn. He is the fame on whom COOPER, in ,his " Account of
America," beftowsfo much praife. Mac Alifter is art active, enterpriz-
ing, induftrious, and intelligent man. About eleven years ago he bought
the ground, on \vhich he has formed the feveral different eftablifhments
of his induftry. Thefe ane all in a thriving way. His eftate confifts

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIAXCOURT. 55

of about three hundred acres, which are partly hemmed \i\ between
the blue and ftcond mountains; but, for the mo(t part, are fituatq on
the blue mountains. The cultivated ground amounts in the whole to
one hundred and twenty acres, fifty of which are laid out in artificial
meadows, and thirty- fix in orchards for apple and peach- trees. The
meadows are beautiful, and the fields in good order. He extols them,
far above all other fields in America, but we have met with fome, even-
in the vicinity of Reading, and in the county of Lancafter, which are
beyond comparifon better than his. He allured us, that he never lays-
dung on any part of his land but meadows, which he alfo waters-; and.
that his only manure for land, which hefows with corn or clover, con-
fifts in fowingit with clover three years fucceflively, and plowing down,
the clover whilft it is in bloflbm. By his aflertion his land yields ge-
nerally iixty bufhels an acre of maize, or thirty bufhels of wheat, but
it has not the appearance of producing fuch confiderable crops. He
fows a larger proportion of grain than is ufual in this country ; but this
is not always a certain method of obtaining a rich harveft. His orchards
are uncommonly fine ; he makes as good cyder as I have ever tafted in.
America. He finds labourers in abundance, and pays them at prefent
three millings a day ; becaufe,. from the prefent high value of corn, the
price of day-labour has rifen one (hilling..

The price of the neighbouring lands is eight dollars an acre if co-
vered with wood, and fifty dollars if they be cleared, and in any de-
gree cultivated. He keeps no fheep, at leafl not above twenty ; be-
caufe, as he told us, they do not yield him fo much profit as his mea-
dows, which produce two tuns and half of hay per acre, worth twenty-
five dollars. For the fame reafon he fattens no cattle. His ridges are
as flat as thofe of other farmers, and his dung is badly managed, though
he ufes a great deal on the land; he Jays fometimes twenty, loads or
thirty tuns of dung on an acre. His mill is a very indifferent one in-
deed ; but he allures me, that he means fbon to build a new one, which
will greatly excel that of Mr. Frey, in Middle Town. The prefent
mill has two courfes, which generally grind corn, of his own, but are

at:

58 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

at times employed for the public, and are frequently fet to pulverize
plafter of Paris, which he mixes with his feed. He informed us, that
he grinds fifteen thoufand bufhels of wheat a year 011 his own ac-
count ; but, on comparing his mill with that of Frey, which grinds no
more in proportion without ever flopping, I feel inclined to doubt the ve-
racity of his aflertion. He fends his meal in waggons to Philadelphia, the
carriage of which amounts, at times, to feventeen Shillings per barrel.
His faw-mill is almoft conftantly going. The logs are floated down
the river from the upper country when the water is high ; and he cuts
them into planks, which he fells on the fpot ; deals at fix fhillings per
hundred, and other planks at eight millings. Thefe prices are the
fame as at Harrifburg. His whifky alib is fold on the fpot ; and the
grain for the diftillery he receives likewife from the upper country. . A
bufhel of rye yields about three gallons of whifky ; and he dijftils yearly
four thoufand gallons. He makes fpirit from his cyder too ; but,
fuch is the power of habit, that cyder whifky, which, in Jerfey, fells
at five millings per gallon, while corn-whifky is worth only four and
fixpence, cofts, in the county of Dauphin, only three fhillings and
fixpence, and corn-whifky five fhillings.

This important fettlement Aands'on a wild, romantic fpot, at the en-
trance of a narrow vale, covered with wood, and fituate on a rapid
creek, that dafhes along over rocks, where decayed trees, either felled
by the hand of man, or rooted up by the wind, are fcattered in every
direction. The various buildings, of which the fettlement confifts, are
of wood; they are all, with the fingle exception of the inn, log-
houfes, more or lefs rudely formed. The houfes of the labourers fland
on the Sufquehannah, and in the precincts of Fort Hunter, which
was erected a long time ago by the Englifh for defence againft the in-
roads of the Indians. Mac Alifler intends greatly to embellifh his build-
ings, and confiderably to improve his eflate, particularly by the culture
of the vine. From what he has already done, it may be fairly inferred,
that he will alfo fucceed in his future undertakings. He is a man of
an acute, well-informed mind, fuch as we fhould hardly expect to find

BY THE DtfKE DK LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOt'RT. Sf

in an American farmer, fhut up in mountainous wilds. Yet his felf-love
and vanity keep pace with his merits, and frequently detract from the
latter, by exaggerating them. For the fame reafon his aflertions are not
to be received as ablblutely certain, nor are we to wonder at being oo
cafionally deceived by a man, who is conftantly deceiving himfelf.

Thurfday, the llth of Majt.

Five or fix ranges of heights run in parallel directions, more or lefs
diftant, from Harrifburg to Sunbury ; round feveral of thefe the road
winds, particularly the Blue Mountains and Second Mountains, making
an undulation along the banks of the river, while it rifes -over others.
Thefe Blue Mountains, which catch the eye, on opening any defcrip-
tion whatever of America, arc like all the others, with which they
are connected, a mere ridge of high hills, through which the Sufque-
hannah fecms to have worked out his bed. Their fummits have not
that rife and fall, which is common to the generality of chains of moun-
tains, but form one uninterrupted line, without the leaft variety, in
point of elevation. The trees, with which they are all uniformly co-
vered, may probably contribute, in fome meafure, to give them this
monotonous appearance. The Blue Mountains are not the higheft,
over which the road leads ; the Peter's and Mahangoning Mountains far
exceed them in height, though they arc much lower than the Voghefiaa
Mountains. You pafs them by a road, which, though very ftony, is yet
tolerably good ; its declivity, with the exception of a few places, is not
very ftecp. Thefe mountains are covered with wood ; where this has
been cut down, a view of the Sufquehannah opens at times, or the
eye repofes on fome cultivated fpots. The whole road lies through
one uninterrupted foreft. Another road, which does not lead over the
mountains, runs parallel to the courfe of the river ; and though the
latter road be more pleafant, affording a profpccl of the confluence of
the Juniata and Sufquehannah, yet we preferred the former, from the
more frequent opportunities which it affords of obtaining a knowledge
of the country.

I At

58 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

At no great diftance from Mac Alifter's habitation, pines are the pre-
vailing trees ; and a great many flowers and herbs grow in this foreft,
which are unknown in Europe.

Honeyfuckles are found in almoft every wood. The blofToms are longer
than in our gardens, but they have the fame fhape, and nearly the fame
fragrance. The fhrubs, on which they grow, are much lower than
thofe reared by art ; they have longer indented leaves than the latter ;
and though I have frequently found them near large trees, yet I never
faw the plants leaning for fupport towards the trunk of the tree. Trees,
rooted up by the wind, which in their fall have often brought others
to the ground, continue on the fame fpot until they are rotten : they
frequently obftrucl: the paflage, but the traveller makes a new path,
by going round them, and this becomes the common road.

In the progrefs of this long journey through forefts, we faw the coun-
try in its firft ftage of cultivation. We found a few ftraggling houfes,
one or two miles diftant from each other; the greateft number are yet
unfinished. They are log-houfes, with the interftices between the
trunks tiled up with earth. Some have been landing there feveral
years, and are rather more covered. Maize is the general produce. The
habitations ftand chiefly in vallies, on a brook or creek. The new fet-
tlers begin their operations by building a houfe, by felling trees, or paring
off the bark all around the tree, about five or fix inches in breadth, by
breaking up the ground, on which they ftand, to fow a little corn, and
by fencing the ground, thus cleared, with a part of the felled trees.
The land firfl cleared is generally laid out as an orchard, one being
annexed to every habitation. Moil of the houfes have a mean ap-
pearance ; the inhabitants are badly clothed, but every thing around
them is their own property. Land, recently cleared, is every where
good; and the two or three acres, which have been firft broken up,
afford crops fufficiently rich to fupply tlie inhabitants till further cultiva-
tion takes place. This eonfideration fomewhat relieves the mind, de-
preffed by the view of thefe melancholy manfions. The roads are, in
general, better than might be expected ; here and there flony, and rather

fteep,

$Y THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFCXU CAUL T J-IANCOURT. 5Q

fteep, but by no means dangerous. In this mountainous country we have
even met with good roads feveral miles in length, formed by the hand of
nature, and which remain undamaged by the tracks of large waggons.
There are places where the road appears to encroach upon the Sufque-
hannah itfelf ; being formed of trees thrown down with their branches
on, and the interftices filled up with fragments of {lone from the rocks,
againft which the road is made. The views here are far lefs picturefque,
and all the roads much lefs bold, and lefs pleafmgly awful, than thofe
which we find in fome parts of Switzerland, the fublime grandeur of
which is above all comparifon.

Inns arc by no means numerous on the road we have lately travelled.
Formerly there were inns at this place ; but as a certain fum is annually
paid to the ftate for a licence, and as the profits are not equal to their
expence, few perfons undertake fo unprofitable an employment. We
pafied one about twelve miles from Mac Alifter's habitation, which is the
only one on this road, in a tracl: of country twenty-two miles in extent.
All the intermediate inns have been fliut up in the courfe of this year.

At length we arrived at an old German's, who, after having ferved in
Canada, in the war of 1/58, as a private foldier, in an Englilli regi-
ment, fettled, at the conclufion of peace, on the fpot where he ftill re-
fides ; the government of Pennsylvania having granted him the land,
which forms his eftate. Here he lived unmolested until the beginning
of the war of the revolution ; when the Indians, at that time ftimulated
and paid by England, drove him from his plantation. When peace was
-eftablimed, he returned hither, and now enjoys the produce of fifty acres
of cultivated land, forty of which are his own property. Land in thefe
parts is very good ; its price is feven or eight dollars per acre uncleared,
-and the value of fuch as is partly cleared, is proportionate to the qua-
lity of the land, and the quantity of wood remaining. The higheft
.price is from eighteen to twenty dollars per acre. Good flabling and
good oats were fufficient to reconcile us to the dirty hole, into which we
were ufhered, and where we fat down to a very bad dinner. Four or five

I 2 girls,

GO THAVKLS IX NOBTII AMERICA,

girls, who are cither daughters or fervants of the old foldier, perform
the bvrfmefs of the inn, which confifts of one room, where thefe people
fleep altogether. The uncleanlinefs, Cupidity, and rudenefs of the whole
family, can hardly be conceived. The old foldier, in common w r ith the
generality of old warriors, diiplays in his behaviour a franknefs and good
nature, which are ever fure to pleafe. The poor fellow can neither
write nor read ; he prefents to every traveller a flate and pencil to write
down his bills, as he dictates to them ; for there is not a fmgle pcrfon in
the houfe able to diftinguifh one letter from another. He complained
of being frequently cheated by travellers, in their fumming up the arti-
cles, for which they were to pay.

We met two travellers at this inn, who, as well as ourfelves, intended
to go to Sunbury, but they wifhed to proceed on the journey that very
evening. One was a hatter, w horn we had feen the night before at Mas
Alifter's; and the other an elderly man, whom the landlord ilyled COLO-
NEL, and who arrived, and left the inn, leading a mare, followed by a foaL
The converfation, during our ftay at the inn, turned on the political ftate
of Europe. The prevailing fentiment was hatred againft England, and
fervent willies for the welfare of France : even the old foldier, who now
and then put in an obfervation, expreiTed the fame feelings. " This
campaign will mow," faid the hatter, " what the French are able to
do." " I am perfuaded," obfcrved the colonel, " that if the French are
in arms, they will prove victorious, and conquer the whole globe ; and
it has been foretold long ago, that this conqueft muft precede the arrival
of Antichrift, and announce the end of the world." " The end of the
w-orld r Is it then fo near at hand, pray ?" afked the old foldier.
" Moft afluredly ; before fifteen years arc elapfed." " That's my opi-
nion too," rejoined the hatter. Having drunk their gill of whiikey, thefe
politicians feparated.

From DEBLERFF'S, which is the name of the old foldier, we proceeded

twelve miles farther to WHITE'S, where we intended to pafs the night.

The road leads over woody mountains, but is, all the way, better thaa

> we

BY THE DUKE DE LA. ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOUHT. l

we expcclcd to find it, from the dcfcription that was given us. This
road runs for a confiderable extent, in a parallel direction -with the Sufque-
hannah, which is here confined between two ranges of mountains, rarcTy
interrupted by v allies, and by none of any confiderable extent. This
ilde of the county of Northumberland (for we left the county of Dau-
phin fifteen miles from Mac Alifter's habitation) difplays rather more
cultivation than the adjacent fide of the county of Cumberland,
where only once in every four or five miles a fmall dwelling is fcen,
iurroundcd with narrow traces of cultivated land. The river forms a
great number of ifles, which, according to law, belong to that county,
from which they arc feparated by the narroweft arm of the ftream. Thefe
iflands have, in general, a good foil, for which reafon, the progrcfs of
cultivation is more rapid on them than any where elfe.

White is a farmer, w r ho came hither from Ireland about thirty years
ago, and pofleflcs at this time an eftate of one thoufand one hundred acres,
only one hundred and ten of which have hitherto been cleared. He has
refided here about feventeen years, and has found means to raife money
enough to purchafe an ifle, at twenty-fix dollars per acre, fituate oppo-
iite to his houfe, which ftands between the mountains and the river.
This fituation affords a wild profpecl, but without one pleafmg feature.
White annually clears feveral acres, the expence of which, fencing in-
cluded, amounts to eight dollars per acre. The price of land, in its na-
tural ftate, is, in this neighbourhood, fix dollars per acre ; but in fuch
traces, as are cleared of wood, particularly in the iflets, it is frequently
fold at forty dollars per acre. This plantation of White's, has no com-
munication with any market town. The river is the only channel by
which he can receive goods, or forward his commodities, and this is a
very uncertain channel of conveyance, at leaft fome part of the year, on
account of its dangerous navigation. Mr. White would ealily procure
labourers, as all his neighbours are poor Irifhmen, did not the conftruc-
tion of the canal, and the opening of the road near Lancafter, afford
them fo much employment, and at prefent render them fcarce. Mr.

White

6'2 TRAVELS IX NORTH AMERICA,

White has already been twice a member of the legiflature of the {late
ot Pennsylvania. He feems a worthy, fenfible man, and a friend of
order ; but at the fame time very open to the arts of defigning men.
He continues his inn, as he fays, " to oblige travellers," yet his bills
fhew, that he ferves them for money, and that too at a higher rate than
is ufual ; and as he has put up no fign, the reception of travellers af-
fumes the garb of hofpitality, which naturally precludes all enquiry into
the unreafonablenefs of his charges.

We did not fup with his family ; for what reafon, 1 know not. His
laughter brought us our coffee as ufual. This is always taken at fup-
per, which confifts of fmoked beef, falt-meat, or fifli. At thefe inns
you feldom meet with any thing but meat, falt-fim, eggs, and but-
ter ; and this fare is certainly fufficient to fatisfy a hungry ftomach.
We were afked every where, whether we travelled with a view to buy
lands. There is hardly a perfon in America, who has the leall idea of
gentlemen travelling with any other defign ; and when we told them,
that w r e travelled for no other purpofe than to gratify our cufiofity, they
thought w r e were fools, or, at beft, liars. All, even our Dunkers in
Ephrata, put that queftion ; and, notwithstanding their own fandity,
thefe holy folks w T ould hardly believe us, when we informed them of the
bbjecl of our tour.

Friday, the 1 5th of May.

The road from White's to Sunbury continues much the fame, as
from Mac Alifter's to White's. We met, however, at times, with
more cultivated vallies, efpecially along the creek Tulpehocken, and with
houfes better conftrufted and {landing on piclurefque fituations, which,
with the appearance of fome retired rocks, form landfcapes not un-
worthy of comparifon with Switzerland. Several other traces are now
cleared of wood ; but from the want of labourers, and undoubtedly of
money a]fo, the trees are more frequently barked and burnt than felled,
which renders the profpecl: dull and gloomy. The mountains, in this
part of the country, are high and rocky, yet bear no comparifon with

the

BY THE EUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 6$

the Alps or Pyrenees. Impudent and artful men are certain in Ame-
rica, as indeed they are in all other parts of the globe, to live upon
the ftupidity and ignorance of others. Of this we found a remarkable
inftance in the hiirory of a German, who arrived from Franckfort, three
years ago, without a milling in his pocket, and who fmce that time has
travelled the country between Lancaster, Reading, and Northumber-
land, particularly the lead inhabited parts of thcfe counties, with a col-
lection of fmall phials, deceiving the people into a belief, that he is a
phyfician ; he vends medicines, bleeds, draws teeth, or fells ballads
to fuch as do not choofe to buy his drugs. The profits of this artful
trade have already enabled him to purchafe a horfe, which carries him,
his commodities, and his dog ; he flays with the farmers as long as they
are willing to keep him ; and feveral of them are glad to entertain him,
on account of his knowledge and abilities. He makes himfelf happy
every where, is merry, fmgs a good fong, and appears, upon the whole,
to be a fly, crafty fellow, who began his career as a player. I am aware,
that the various anecdotes, with which I prefent my readers, are not all
equally interesting; yet they are all requifite to give a juft notion of
my tour, and to complete the delineation of the cuftoms and manners
of the country.

The mountains, over which the road from Harrifburg to Sunbury
leads, are all of granite, more or lefs perfecl:, which in fome places is
very fine and beautiful. All the fpecies of maple, cornel-tree, called here
dog-tree, fumach, Weymouth pine, feveral fpecics of afh, and num-
berlefs pfeudo-acacias, grow in the furrounding woods, and are here of
remarkable fize and beauty.

At fome diftance from White's habitation we miftook our way, and
ftruck into the old road, inftead of keeping the new one, which is
ihorter by feven miles, and lies along the banks of the Sufquehannah.
In confequence we croiTed the mountain Mahonoy, to reach the plain,
m which Sunbury Hands. This town, which is not fo large as Har-
rifburg, and in its buildings lefs elegant and compact, is feated on the
left bank of the Sufquehannah, about half a mile below the ipot, where

its

fli TRAVELS I.V NORTH AMUR 1C A,

its two arms join. The profpcct of" the town, on dcfccnding the
mountain, is neither grand nor pleafing ; in point of fize the houfes,
viewed from the heights, rcfemblc a camp, rather than a town. The
final! furrounding plain is but indifferently cultivated, and without
trees. The oppofitc bank of the river is bounded by high mountains,
the profpecl: of which is darkened by numerous pines, growing on the
rocks, and confequently not likely to be cut down, to make way for
cultivation. The river Sufquehannah is beautiful in every point of
view, broad, with lofty majeltic mountains, rifmg in gradual elevation
from its banks ; yet it is here lefs pleafing, except where the great va-
riety of ifles, which it forms, and w r hich are planted with trees, foften
and enliven the prevailing gloom by the light that gleams through their
branches. The Sufquehannah, near Sunbury, is more than a mile in
breadth,

By the moft correcl information, which we were able to obtain, the
inhabitants of all the counties, we have hitherto traverfed, are honeft,
induftrious people, attached to the federal government, and to the laws
of the ftate. Criminal offences are rare, fome thefts excepted, w^hich
are generally committed by people, lately arrived from Europe, brought
up in ignorance and penury, and whole morals generally improve as
they acquire a fmall property of their own. The different counties,
through which we have paffed, have for thefe many years formed inte-
gral parts of the ftate of Pennfylvania. The limits of the lands are,
therefore, more exactly afcertained here, than in other counties ; and
confequently law-fuits, arifmg from the confufion of land-marks, are
lefs frequent. Thefe give occafion to about a twelfth part of the caufes
which are tried here : outftanding debts are the chief fubjects of legal
profecutions. The manners of the people difplay great fimplicity, fre-
quently bordering on rudenefs. I have heard it affcrted, that this appa-
rent fimplicity is merely a cloak for deceit and artifice, but I have made
no difcoveries of that kind by my own experience. Among the Ame-
ricans of every rank and defcription, there prevails lefs of apparent ci-
vility and politenefs than in France, or even in England, where I have

found

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIAN^TOtJRT. {);>-

found both, though in a different guife :- yet we have experienced much
good-natured, free, and engaging kindnefs, even from perfons to whom
we had no letters of introduction, and an univerfal readinefs to refolvc
our queftions, whenever they, to whom they were addreiTed, were able
to gratify our requeft. Ignorance, and confequently prejudices, are fre-
quently met with, even among the higher orders of fociety : there arc
indeed fome exceptions, but thefe are few. Opinions on things and per*
ions are delivered in a manner pofitive rather than argumentative,, and
Confequently all means of free difcufiion are generally excluded. Political
opinions tend in general towards liberty, and are commonly offered with
ft franknefs, a boldnefs, and independence, which are truly pleafing/
The general bent of the public opinion is in favour of France, and
^gainir, her prefent enemies. It is by no means an uncommon thing, ta
hear farmers, unconnected with the higher circles, call Robefpierrej,
and all thofe who lhared with him the fupreme power, the ban-
ditti of France. ^he exafperation againft England is great, fpreads
through all ranks of fociety, and has been much increafed by the unjuffc
proceedings againft America, with which fhe was charged laft year*
In my opinion, Mr. JAY'S negociation will hardly be able to fmother tho
glowing fpark. The public opinion is chiefly guided by the univerfal
deiire of amafling property, which, if merely difplayed in induftrious pur-
fuits, and exertions to cultivate and improve the land, deferves much praife*
In towns, indeed, it is lefs nice, both in the manner in which it fhewa
itfelf, and the means it employs to attain its end. Many of my Euro-
pean countrymen are apt to cenfure this national bent, which precludes
all the finer and nobler emotions of the foul. To this cenfure I cannot
give my unqualified aflent ; and though I readily allow, that an immo-
derate love of money hardens the heart, and renders it callous to huma-
nity, to civility, nay tojuftice itfelf, yet it does not follow, that it mould
be utterly incapable of a good and noble action. We have inftances of
this in Europe, where love of money is as univerfally prevalent as in this
country, though it conceals itfelf more than here ; either becaufe it is
more criminally refined, or meets with lefs convenient opportunities of

K being

68 TRAVELS IN XOH.TH AMERICA,

being praftifed. Similar inftanccs -occur in America. Again, if we con-
fider this propenfitv in a political point of view, we fliall find, that it is
the natural refnlt of its prefent inlant ftate ; of the variegated compofi-
tion of its inhabitants, who are emigrants from every corner of the
globe, full of the prejudices and partialities of the country whence
they came ; of the immenfe variety of eafy fpeculations, which croud
around the monied men ; and laftly, of the diftinction enjoyed here by
wealth, which exceeds that derived from it in other countries : for, a
few eminent llations excepted, which are occupied but a fhort time,
and meritorious fervices rendered, which are foon forgotten by the peo-
ple, there exifts in this country no perfonal diftinclion. In fine, this way
of thinking in private individuals is the moft certain means of rendering
the country itfelf more profperous and important. And is not this the
higheft advantage derived from the univerfal intereft, which unites and
iupports fociety, that, with the exception of a few cafes, no member
can enrich himfelf, without promoting at the fame time the profperity
of others ? Though this obfervation more generally applies to agriculture,
yet there exifls hardly one defcription of profperity, nay of individual
luxury, where it does riot hold good. The people of America live well ;
the foil produces all the neceffaries of life, even in a very fuperficial
ftate of cultivation : there are few perfons, who do not poiTefs more
than they need for tfoeir own maintenance. Hence arifes the in-
dolence of a great number of the inhabitants, Who, having by four
days labour earned a whole week's fubfiftence, idle away the remaining
three days ; hence their kzinefs, relative to agricultural improvements,
which would require fums of money, and other facrifices, of the neceffity
of which they are not convinced, being infenfible of the advantages to
be derived from them. Improvements, fimilar to thofe which have al-
ready been made in regard to the political organization of fociety, to
commercial relations, navigation, and roads, will certainly be effected in
agriculture in the procefs of time. But, before they can take place, the
land-owners muft be more forcibly impreffed with the neceffity of rouf-
ing from their indolence, and abandoning their prejudices; and the po-
pulation

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHRE OUCAU^T LIAXCOURT. /

pulation mull be incrcafed beyond its prefent amount ; which will cer-
tainly be done* Though all this muft happen in the ufual courfc of na-
ture, yet men of abilities, and learned focietics, fhould endeavour to dif-
fufe ufeful lights by good books, by collections of inftrucVive extracts
from European works of acknowledged merit, and by all other means
of inftruclion. For, undoubtedly, they may thus accelerate the period,
when the neccfiity of the above improvements will be more fenfibly felt.
In a country like this, literary focicties may prove eminently ufeful, if.
they do not afTume too learned an appearance, but are animated and
guided by the true public fpirit, which ipeaks a iimple and perfpicuous'
language, and readily repeats its inftruclions, untincl:ured with the vain
felfiilinefs, which generally dictates the profeffions of private, individuals.

The incrcafe of the price of land is uncommonly great, it having been
more than doubled within the lail three or four years. Though the
price of labour, from the high value of ground, which, within thefe
lail twelve^ .months, has experienqed an extraordinary rife, is higher than
ufual ; yet it feems flill the moft profitable fpcculation for monied men
in this country, to lay out their money in land, which they may have
cleared -and ;cultivated under their own eyes. Notwithstanding this un-
common rife of the price of land, inftances of its -being difpofed of at the
fame price^ which prevailed ionic years fince, are not unfrequent. The
ckcumfbmces, under which this happens, are, ,it is true/ rather of a pe-
culiar complexipn^; yet pretty common. If, for inttance, a perfon, four
years ago, bought eight hundred acres of land, and bound himfelf to
pay a fourth -of the purchafe-rnoney at the expiration of four years, but
was either too indolent to raife within the time a handfome fortune by
his labours, or fpent the proceeds of his eftate, which he mould have
laid i icbt ; he mufl raife money as well as he can, and

rhuft fell his land at any price, without being able to infift on that which
the adjacent lands fetch, at this time.

The numerous banks, which have lately been eftablimed, fcem to
have contributed not a little to the uncommon rife of the price of land ;
ior in proportion as thqy increafe the quantity of money, they alfo mul-
ls 2 tipl/

68 TRAVELS IX NORTH AMERICA,

tiply and facilitate the means of fubfiflence. It is by quickening the
activity of internal commerce, and increasing the means of converting
property into money, that banks raife the value of lands in fale.

A relaxation is obfervable among all orders of fociety. Drunkennefs
is the prevailing vice, and, with few exceptions, the fource of all other
evils. A fpirit, or rather habit of equality, is diffufed among this peo-
ple, as far as it poffibly can go. In feveral inns, efpecially fuch as are
Situate on 1-efs frequented roads, the circumftance of our fervant not din-
ing with us at the fame table excited general aftonimment, without its
befpeaking any bad intention on the part of thofe who manifefted it.
The inhabitants exhibit to ftrarigers ftriking inftances both of the ut-
moft cleanlinefs and exceffive naftinefs. They are much furprifed at a
refufal, to fleep with one or two other men in the fame bed, or between
dirty flieets, or to drink after ten other perfons out of the fame dirty
glafs ; and they wonder no lefs, when they fee ftrangers neglecl: to warn,
their hands and face every morning. Whiiky mixed with water is the
common drink in the country. There is no fettler, however poor,
whofe family do not drink coffee and chocolate, and eat fait meat at
breakfaft. At dinner comes fait meat again, or fait fim and eggs ; and
at fupper, once more fait meat and coffee. This is alfo the general rule
in inns. An American fits down at the table of his landlord, and lies
down in the bed, which he finds empty, or occupied but by one perfbn,
without in the leafl enquiring, in the latter of thefe cafes, who that perfon
may be. We have hitherto fortunately efcaped a perfonal trial of this
laft American cuftom, but were very near experiencing it at White's.

The roads are good, where the foil is fo, the road by Lancafter ex-
cepted ; art has hitherto but little meddled with the roads in Pennfyl-
vania. Such fpots, as are bad and muddy, are filled up with trees,
placed near each other ; when thefe fink into the ground, others are laid
upon them. Over fmall brooks, bridges are thrown, which confift of
boards, placed on two beams, laid along the banks of the brook. Thefe
boards frequently rot, and remain in this condition for months together,
without its entering into any one's head, to replace them with others. We

have

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 69

have paSTed feveral fuch bridges, with great danger to our horfes, from
the bad condition of the boards. All this will be better in time ; yet I
mean to defcribe things juft as they are now. Creeks are generally
forded. Acrofs fome, which are very deep, wooden bridges are thrown ;
which, however, are not fuch as they Should be : the boards, or fmall
trees, with which they are covered, are neither fo good, nor fo clofc
to each other, as might be wimed.

This is a brief Sketch of the phySical and moral Slate of the country,
which we have hitherto traverfed, drawn after thofe obfervations, which
the Shortnefs of the time allowed us to make. I Shall occasionally cor-
rect, what on more exact information I find to be erroneous, and fupply
what may be deficient.

Sunday, the I'/th of May.

On the oppofite fide of the river, a mile above Sunbury, at the e*-
treme point of the ISlhmus, formed by the two arms of the Sufque-
hanna, Stands Northumberland. Sunbury is the chief town of the
county. But the fmall number of public buildings, which are necef-
fary for the administration of juftice, constitute its only advantages over
Northumberland ; that, on the other hand, enjoys all the benefits of a
fine Situation, which, in fact, is as delightful as may be conceived. The
two arms of the river forming a right angle at the point of their con-
fluence ; the country expands behind it in a femi- circular form, rifing
in gentle fwells of a fruitful foil, and connected with vallies and opening
plains of ftill richer ground. The banks of both arms of the river are
fufceptible of cultivation to a wide extent, on the fide where Northum-
berland ftands. Both arms are navigable, without interruption, to a
distance of three hundred miles, and water a foil, which courts cultiva-
tion. The number of houfes is at this time, perhaps, a fixth greater
at Sunbury than at Northumberland, where it amounts to about one
hundred. The firft houfes were built in 1775; yet the inhabitants
were driven from them in the war of the revolution, and their habita-
tions ^eStroyed, The town was not rebuilt till the year 1785. It is

undoubtedly

TO TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

undoubtedly the worft built town we have hitherto feen. All the houfcs
are of w r ood, chiefly log-houfes ; two only are built with flone. There
is no market-place here ; the town contains no inns, but three or four
whilky-houfes. We put up in that which is the bell of them ; and
yet it rains on our beds, as well as on our horfes in the liable. Me-
thinks there is hardly any place fituate more favourably for its be-
cpming a large city, than Northumberland. The flow progrefs, hitherto
made by the town, I have heard imputed to the untoward character and
little fenfe of the gentleman, who poffefled three-fourths of the ground
on which the town {lands. He is lately dead ; but had he lived longer,
his exiftence would have proved no impediment, that might not eafily
have been removed by the concurrence of favourable circumft'ances.

The price of land about Northumberland is, at prefent, from twenty
to twenty-four dollars per acre, near the river; that fituate on the
northern arm is flill dearer, on account of the better quality of the foil,
and becaufe a greater part of the ground is already cleared there, than
on the eaflern arm. Farther up the river, land is fold from four to
fix dollars an acre. The quality of the foil, the vicinity of a creek, and
longer or fhorter inftalments, produce here the fame variety in the
price of land as in other parts. The value, which I point out, is the me-
dium price, . Ground- ihares in the town are, at thi time, fold at forty-
eight or fifty dollars.

The inhabitants of Northumberland, as well as of the county at large,
confiil, for the moil part, of Dutchmen. There arc fome Germans,
and a few natives; but moil of the inhabitants are foreigners. The
Iriih are, with a few exceptions, the woril of them all. Being Icfs in-
duilrious than the reft, they are consequently poorer ; and the property
of an Irifhman is conflantly at the fervice of fuch as wifh to have it.
The Germans are ,more tenacious of theirs ; and, for this reafon, in
ounbury, and the adjacent country, where they refide in confiderable
numbers, cftates are dearer than in Northumberland, though the foil is
of an inferior quality.

The flate of agriculture in Northumberland, and the adjacent $oun-

fcY THE DUKE J>E LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIAXCOURT. 71

try, is much the fame as in all other parts of America ; but the pro-
portion of cleared land is imaller than in other counties we have tra-
verfed. Labourers arc eafily found ; they arc paid fix millings a day
without victuals, or three {hillings and nine-pence with their entertain-
ment. In the country, where they hire themfelvcs by the month, they
havc eight dollars, for which they are obliged to work twenty-fix days.
Bricklayers' and carpenters' wages are, in town, one dollar per day. The
price of tiles is four dollars per thoufand ; and very good bricks coft, in
Northumberland, two millings and fix-pence, delivered free of expence.

The price of lime is from nine to ten-pence per bufliel, of deal-boards
five fhillings per hundred feet, and of other boards fix Shillings and fix-
pence.

As there is no market, either in Northumberland or Sunbury, the
inhabitants live, for the greater part of the year, upon falted meat, un-
lefs they keep fowls. The farmers kill, at times, a cow ; but fince an
epidemic difeafe has carried off almoft all the horfes, they have been
obliged to replace thefe by oxen for the purpofes of agriculture, and
consequently ufe lefs beef than before. Cow^-beef is at this time fold
from five-pence to five- pence halfpenny per pound. The higheft houie-
rent in Northumberland is eighty dollars ; and there is but one houfe
in the whole town for which fo much is paid. It is of brick, large
and convenient, and was but lately fold for five thoufand two hundred
dollars. Every thing is fomewhat dearer at Sunbury, but the difference
is not a mil iixth.

The land about Northumberland yields generally fifteen bufhels of
wheat per acre, when it has attained what the farmers call a full ftate
of cultivation. The proportion of other crops is the fame as in other
places. Indian corn is produced in large quantities, which mews the
ignorance and indolence of the farmers, for it exhaufts the foil ; and
though it fupplies all the houfehold wants of a family, yet no^ a bumel is
ever exported from the place where it grows. A great advantage, which
might be derived from it, by mixing its {talks with, the dung, is entirely
neglected by the farmers. The Iheep are rather leng-legged and meagre ;

yet

72 TRAVELS IN NOJITH AMERICA,

yet the wool is good, and is fold for two fhillings and fix-pence per pound.
But very little is fold ; for in ..this vale of Pennfylvania, as every where
elfe, the farmers would be very forry indeed, if they were obliged, to
keep many meep.

I obferved before, that the clearing of lands in certain well-chofen
diftricls is, in my judgment, the moft profitable fpeculation monied
men can enter upon in this country. The information I collected in
Northumberland affords an additional proof of the truth of this remark.
The expence for clearing and fencing an acre, amounts, upon an average,
to thirteen dollars ; and this is pretty high. The firft crops yield gene-*
rally twenty bufhels of wheat, if the ground be well cleared, the trees,
which ftood in the middle, cut down, and the largeft well barked. Wheat
is fold at this time for ten fhillings per bufhel. The agreement entered
upon with a farmer, relative to a piece of ground which has been cleared
of wood, generally purports, that he is to have half the produce, but
muft alfo find the feed. The land-owner nets therefore the firft harveft
five pounds, the value of ten bufhels of wheat at ten fhillings, and con-
fequently more than the expence for clearing and fencing. If we fup-
pofe the medium price of wheat to be only five millings and nine- pence
per bulhel, the land-owner obtains, even in this cafe, the firft year,
twenty-five per cent on the capital laid out ; and yet there are many
cafes where the former eftimate falls fhort of the real proceeds, as there
are others where the latter is beyond them.

The prices rife as faft in the vicinity of Northumberland, as in othef
parts ; but this country, which is uncommonly extenfive, is but thinly
inhabited, even in fuch diftricl:s as are fituate neareft to Philadelphia ;
the prefent number of inhabitants does not exceed feventeen thoufand.
The population encreafes, however, yearly, through emigration from
the Jerfeys, from New -England, and a part of Pennfylvania. One
hundred and thirty families, emigrants from the Jerfeys, have very
lately fettled on the branches of the Sufquehannah. But the land-
marks of the purchafed ground are not always fufficiently known, nor
the right of the fellers perfectly clear ; for which reafon actions, con-
cerning

BY THE DUKE DE LA FvOCHEFOU-GAULT LIANCOURT. 73

cer-ning difputcd limits, conftitute nearly three-fourths of the caufes,
which are tried in the courts of law at Sunbury.

The political fentiments of the inhabitants of Northumberland are
lefs virtuoils and fteady, than of the inhabitants of the lefs remote coun-
ties. Several of them took, laft year, an active part in the revolt at Pittf-
burg, and flill remain in confinement, on account of that affair. A de-
finitive judgment being now daily expe<fled in this bufinefs, every tra-
veller, efpecially if he be fuppofed to come from Philadelphia, is afked
by the interefled inhabitants, as foon as he arrives, whether he brings
any news refpecling that judgment. We were afked, like all other tra-
vellers ; and the queftions, put to us on this fubjecl, were conceived in
terms, which by no means befpoke good and loyal fentiments.

Near to Northumberland, on the northern arm of the Sufquehannah,
and clofe to the point of confluence of the two arms of that river, lies
an ifle, which contains about two hundred and fifty acres of the richeft
foil, from fifty of which the largeft trees have been cut down. The
land is fit for all the purpofes of agriculture ; and might be cultivated
with equal profit and fatisfaclion by an induftrious owner. It is the
moft pleafant little eflate, which can poffibly be bought by any perfon
defirous of fettling in Northumberland. At prefent it is the property of
a man, much advanced in years, who lives on it, in a fmall log-houfe,
He bought it about feven years ago for one thoufand fix hundred dollars,
and very lately refufed three thoufand three hundred, which were offered

for this ifland.

. ,->

Northumberland is the refidence of Dr. PRIESTLEY. They, who
know with what relentlefs fury the ********** exerted all its
influence to procure him to be harraffed by the mob, his houfe in Bir-.
mingham to be burnt down to the ' ground, and himfelf to be infulted
and made uneafy wherever he went, will, undoubtedly, feel for the fate
of this gentleman, who has defervedly obtained fo -much fame in the
literary world, and whofe perfecution, were he even guilty of the groffefl
political mifconduct, which is by no means the cafe, cannot but deeply
interefl in his favovir every feeling mind. This unwarrantable extenfion

L of

74 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

of influence muft excite univerfal indignation, and it needs no gift of di-
vination to forefee, that the Englim mob, thus fet upon their fujppofed
enemies by the **********, ma y poffibly turn, fooner or later,
againft the inftigators. However this maybe, the perfecution experienced
by Dr. Prieftky would hardly have driven him fo foon to quit England,
had he not expelled to enjoy in America that high celebrity and diftinc-
tion, which were promifed him by fbme flattering friends. His cele-
brity was, however, of no long duration ; the Americans are too little
fenfibleofthe value of that knowledge, by which he has acquired fo dif-
tinguifhed a rank among the literati of the age. They concern them-
ielves but very little about dogmatical difcuffions of the Bible, and the
tenets of the Unitarians ; and would readily give up all the experiments
on air for one good and profitable fpeculation ! The perfecuted from va-
rious countries have, in thefe late years, fought an afylum among the
Americans ; fuch arrivals are, therefore, no uncommon fight to this
people ; and they have not much time to lofe in vain civilities. Under
thefe circumflances, the refpect fhewn to Dr. Prieftley, who is a pro-
found philofopher, an admired writer, a celebrated chemift, and a vic-
tim of the Englim miniftry, did not laft long. A few dinners, given to
him at New York, where he landed, and at Philadelphia, to which place
lie afterwards proceeded, formed the whole train of honours which graced
his reception. His fon, who arrived in America fome time before him,
had bought lands, where all the Unitarians, and all the perfecuted of
Old England, were to join and rally under the Doctor's banner. This
fettlement was to enjoy a diftinguifhed protection on the part of the
American Government ; and to fecurc to the Doctor a name, as chief
of the fed:, and founder of the colony. But thefe hopes have already
vanimed. No Englishmen have arrived to purchafe his. lands ; and the
Government of the United States, even that of Pennfylvania, did not
confidcr the project of the Doctor's fettlement as more important than
that of any other individual. The conftant praife of his uncommon
merits as a natural philofopher induced his friends at Philadelphia, to
lolicit for him the profeflbrmip of chemiftry in the college, which they

obtained;

BY THE DUKK DE LA EQCHEFOUC AUL T I.I AXCOUKT. 75

obtained; but this place was far beneath the expectation of the Doclor,
as well as of his family ; and it became ncceHary, even for the preferva-
tion of his celebrity in Europe, to withdraw from a fcene, where his at-
tempt of attracting univerfal attention had completely failed.

He therefore removed to Northumberland. The lands, purchafcd by
his fon, were fituate in that county, though he had actually refolved to
relincjuim the idea of founding a colony, which would have had no co-
lonifts but his own family ; yet his removal to Northumberland, at leaft
had not the appearance of an intention to abandon, in fo abrupt a man-
ner, a project which had already been announced to the world.

As Mr. Guillemard was flightly acquainted with Young PRIESTLEV,
and more particularly with Mr. COOPER, who has alfo fettled in North-
umberland, we were induced to prefer halting at that town, rather
than at Sunbury, though both lay on our road ; that I might gratify
the w T im, w T hich I entertained, to be introduced to a man fo juftly cele-
brated. The project of forming the intended fettlement in the country
is entirely relinquimed ; Mr. Morris has generoufly taken back the
greater part of the lands, which young Prieftley bought of him laft
year, with all the formalities prefcribed by law. He has alfb found
means to difpofe of the reft, and has bought fome land near the town,
which he is now clearing and preparing for cultivation. The Doctor
has built a houfe, to which he intends removing about the end of the
Cummer. His modes of life and drefs are nearly the fame as in Eng-
land, the wig excepted, which he has laid afide. He frequently laughs
at the world, but in a manner which clearly appears not to be from his
heart. He fpoke with great moderation of the political affairs of Europe,
and in very mild expreflions of England. He is now bufied in the infti-
tution of a college, for which fix thoufand dollars have already been fub-
fcribed, and feven thoufand acres have been affigned him, as a free gift.
In this eftablilhment, of which he has drawn up a profpeclus, there is a
prefident's place, doubtlefs intended for himfelf. JOSEPH PRIESTLEY,
the eldeft fon, feems at prefent to be more engaged in induftrious pur-
fuits, than in political difcuffions. He has married a young Engliih

L 2 lady.

J$ TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

lady, apparently of a mild and amiable difpofition, but who fpeaks very
little in company. She, as well as her mother-in-law, feem lefs to ac-
commodate themfelves to American manners than their hufbands. Mr,
Cooper has purchafed fome hundred acres of land, which he is at prefent
clearing of wood, and preparing for cultivation. He is undoubtedly a
man of parts, of a reftlefs mind, ill adapted to find happinefs in a retired
rural life. In the account he wrote of America, it was certainly his defign,
to perfuade colonifls to join Dr. Prieftley. In his manners, he affects at
prefent a ftrong predilection for American cuftoms ; and fays, that he
prefers his prefent mode of living to any other. He is fufpecled here of
aiming at a feat in Congrefs. In point of abilities at leaft, he would
hold no mean rank among its members. Some Englimmen, who lately
arrived in America, intended to fettle in the vicinity of Northumberland.
It appears, however, that they have abandoned that intention, difgufted
with the fort of precedence claimed by Dr. Prieftley and his family, and
with the aufterity of their manners ; though unqueftionably the Doc-
tor's acquaintance and library would prove a very great accommodation
to new fettlers ; and his misfortunes and perfecutions cannot fail to in-
tereft every one in his favour. As a companion of Mr. Guillemard I
was received by thefe families^ with as much politenefs as their cold
and gloomy tempers ever difplay.

In one of our water excursions with young Prieftley, in the vicinity
of Northumberland, we landed near a wooden houfe, built againft the
fide of a high mountain, which is covered with wood and fragments of
jocks, and feparated from the river by a tract of land, about four and
twenty yards wide. An Englifh lady inhabits this fmall houfe, which,
would prove a highly interefting fpot, if ihe were young and handfome,.
and awake to the pleafures or the forrows of love. But, alas ! fuch ihe
is not. She has three daughters, the youngeft of whom, the only one
that refides with her, is twenty years old. This lady left England in
confcquence of her hufband's becoming a bankrupt ; to avoid the difgrace,.
attending an event of that nature, which, however innocent the
bankrupt may be, muft wound his own feelings, as well as thofe of his

family ;.

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT, 77

family ; and to prepare an afylum for her hufband, after he fhall have
fettled his accounts with his creditors. Her name is DASH : her hufband
was a banker of Bath, Colonel of the militia of his county, and en-
joys the reputation of an honeft man. It is abfolutely impoffible, to dif-
play more fpirit and perfeverance, than this lady has done, ever fmce me
fettled on this eftate, not an inch of which was cultivated at the time
flic purchafed it. It contains about one hundred acres ; on which, fix
months ago, not a hut was to be feen, and where not a tree was felled.
All thefe obfbicles me has furmounted. She is now building a ftone

houfe, and will, therefore, be able, within a twelvemonth, to receive
her hufband in a retired and humble, yet decent habitation. The fitua-
tion and misfortunes of this poor lady have in fome degree injured her
brain. But, this circumftance, while it increafes her loquacity, does
not prevent her from purfuing that direel; line of conduct, which me has
marked out for herfelf. Two of her daughters have been well married,
fmce their arrival in America. With a fort of enthufiafm, I liftened to
the other, who is at home, whilft fhe played on the pianoforte. She per-
forms very well, is young, pretty, unfortunate, modeft, poffefles no pro-
perty on earth, and, in a wooden hut, plays upon one of the fineft inflru-
ments, that ever came from Longman's fhop. The ftrange contraft of
all thefe circumftances might eafily obtain a young lover for Mifs Sarah
Dam; and this I moft fmcerely wifhed her, at my departure; but,
young lovers are not fo easily to be won, in this country.

I had here another proof how profitable a ipeculation it is in this coun-
try to purchafe wood-land, clear the ground, and render it fit for culti-
vation. Mrs. Dam bought one hundred acres for two hundred and fixty-
five dollars, twenty of which me has cleared, and fown with wheat ;
including the fpot on which her houfe {lands, and a fmall garden. The 1
expence for clearing the land, and building her wooden houfe and a
ftable, amounted in the whole to one thoufand and fixty-five dollars. Her
twenty acres yielded each twenty bufhels of wheat, the price of which,
this year, is ten millings per bufhel. She employs no farmer, becaufe
the is herfelf on the fpot ; and confequently the produce of the firft

year's^

78 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

year's harveft from twenty acres amount to two hundred pounds, or
five hundred and thirty-three dollars, the moiety of the amount total of
her expence, the purchafe money excluded.*

We patted the Saturday and Sunday in Northumberland, and pro-
ceeded on Monday to Wilkfbarre.

Monday, the 18th of May.

The road from Northumberland to Berwick, which we had been told
N was dreadful, we found in a much better condition, than any we have
hitherto pafled. The road is dreary, without the leaft variety of prof-
peel;, runs constantly, or at lean: generally, through woods, though it
lies parallel to the river, upon which, however, a view only opens now
and then, and the bed of which, to the fouthward, is continually hedged
in between mountains covered with fir.f

We halted at Mr. MONTGOMERY'S, twelve miles from Northumber-
land. The creek, on which his faw-mill is fituate, is the only one we
have hitherto feen. The land, which moftly Hopes towards the river,
feems good. Few or no rocks are to be feen. Mr. Montgomery is a fur-
veyor ; he does not keep an inn, but fupplies both men and horfes with
food and provender for money. From him we learned, that the price of
the bcfl land in his neighbourhood, on the banks of the river, is from
twenty- three to twenty- eight dollars an acre ; but that when whole
eftates, for inftance, four hundred acres of good foil, are fold, the tenth
part of which is cleared, the price of land amounts to eight dollars per
acre ; that land, which lies yet in wood, fetches from two to five dol-
lars per acre ; that the price of labour is three fhillings per day ; that
it is no eafy matter to procure labourers, becaufe the number of inhabi-
tants in the neighbourhood is inconfiderable ; that the colonifts confift
chiefly of Dutchmen, or their children ; and, laftly, that this diflrid has
fufFered much from an epidemical difeafe, which, two years ago, de-

The original fays, the purchafe-money included* but this is either an error of the
,prefs, or an overfight of the author.- Tranfiator.

t With the exception of two or three large bafins, formed by the river.

ftroyed

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAtTLT LIANCQURT. JQ

ftroyed nearly all the horfes. To judge from the fymptoms, pointed out
by Mr. Montgomery, I never heard of any fimilar diftemper in France.
By his dcfcription, it is a weaknefs, which deftroys a horfe in the courfe
,of two months. The liver is blown up by a fwelling, which extends
into the legs, and the whole mafs of blood is entirely difcoloured. This
diilemper is called here the yellow water*

The road to Berwick leads, for its whole length, conftantly through
woods, and confequently affords no profpecl:. There are few habitations
here, and thefe have a mean appearance. At fome diftance from the
houfes, we faw a few ftraggling cow r s and fhcep.

We halted in the drftrid: of Fiftiing Creek, at one ABRAHAM MIL-
LER'S, who is a farmer, and keeps an inn and a ihop. His eftate con-
fifts of three hundred acres, feventy of which are cleared. He clears
annually about twelve or fifteen acres more, but not without confider-
able trouble, as labourers are very fcarce in this diftrict ; they are paid
three ihillings and fixpence per day, and have befides their board, which
is eftimated at about one Hulling and fix pence. Here, as well as in all
the other places through which we have hitherto paiTed, three dollars
per acre are generally paid for hoeing up the roots of bufhes, on fuch
ground as is deftined for cultivation ; or if day-labourers be employed
in this work, they are paid five ihillings a day, befides their victuals.
This was the firfl place, where we ufed maple fugar, which we found
excellent. Abraham Miller fells yearly about five or fix barrels of this
fugar. He buys it at thirteen pence per pound, and fells it at fifteen ;
the brown moift fugar of the colonies he fells at fourteen pence. He
procures all the goods, fold in his Ihop, from Philadelphia ; they are
brought in waggons as far as Catawefly, where they are fhipped on "the
Sufquehannah, and thence conveyed to Fiihing Creek. The aggregate
amount of freight and carriage was, formerly, one dollar per tun, but
fince laft fpring it has riien to one dollar and a half.

The price of land in the neighbourhood is from eight to ten dollars
per acre, if in any degree cleared of wood, and from two to three dol-
lars, if Hill covered with trees. Habitations are fcarce and flraggling,

but.

80 TRAVELS IX NORTH AMERICA, . '

"but inoreafe in number nearer to Berwick. This is the chief town of the
diftrid: : it ftands on the banks of the river. The fituation is fufficiently
agreeable, and more open than that of other places, through which we
have lately paffed. This fmall village confifts of twenty miferable
houfes, in which we could not iind an egg for our fupper, but we pro-
cured fome milk. The beds were clean, the ftabling good, oats and
hay excellent; and travellers on horfeback are ufually contented them-
felves with fcanty fare, it their horfes be well provided for. The inn-
keeper and his wife are a young couple, who have but very lately fettled
here. Their houfe is of wood, and only half fmiilied ; they poilefs, at
prefent, eighty acres,- ten of which are cleared and cultivated. The
price of land at Berwick is twelve dollars, if the ground be already
fome what cleared, and from one dollar and a half to tw T o, if the wood
be not yet cut down.

The inhabitants of Berwick, as well as of the huts, we faw on this
day's journey, are a medley of Englifhmen, Frenchmen, Germans, Fle-
mings, and Scots. Moft of the colonifts, who have lately arrived, come
from the Jerfeys. They feem all poor, and are badly cloathed, yet their
ftrong and healthy appearance mews, that they are well fed, and foothes
the mind, which iympathizes in their poverty. The number of chil-
dren is, in proportion to the habitations, very great indeed. Near Ovens
we faw a fchool for young girls, which, from the fmallnefs of the hut,
and the number of children who ran out to fee us pafs, had the appear-
^ ance of an ant-hill. Two miles below Berwick are thofe rapid cur-
rents, known by the name of Nefcopeck, which greatly impede the navi-
gation of the river, efpecially at low water.

Tnefday, the 1 gth of May.

This day proved rather unfortunate to us. We left Berwick at fix
o'clock in the morning, and were unfortunately addreffed to one 'SQUIRE
BEACH, who lives feven miles from it, and who was to point out
to us the the bell road to Wilkfbarre. Our ill-luck would have it,
that this 'Squire Beach is a maker of roads, and had but very lately con-

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 81

ftrucled a new one, which is fome miles morter than the old road.
He advifed us to take the former, which he aflured us was the beft. Re-
lying on his ailurance, we followed his advice, but were on the very
outfet at confiderable pains, to find the place where we were to be fer-
ried acrofs the river, to reach the new road. The ferry-boat, which
was rowed by a man turned of feventy; was too fmall to contain our
four horfes ; we therefore caufed our baggage to be carried over firft ;
and this arrived fafe on the oppofite bank. The fervant was ordered
not to wait for us, but to proceed. On the return of the ferry-boat,
Mr. Guillemard and I embarked. His mare, who is always very fpirit-
ed, and whofe mettle was perhaps heightened by the fight of the other
horfes on fhore, began to ftir in the fmall boat, which was rather low
at the fides ; and in the midft of our pafTage put one of her hind-legs
into the water, which brought her whole hinder part down. The boat
heeled to that fide, was filled with water, and would have been in-
ftantly overfet, but for Mr. Guillemard's prefence of mind. He puihed
the horfe into the river, and thus faved us in the moft imminent danger
of being drowned ; a danger to which travellers muft be frequently
expofed in this country, from the bad conftrudlion of the ferry-boats, as
well as from the imprudence and unfkilfulnefs of the ferry- men. The
mare, Mr. Guillemard holding her faft by the bridle, fafely reached
the more ; and thus far every thing was well. But this incident was
the harbinger of accidents ftill more unpleafant. We could not difco-
ver any road ; fome trees, which had been felled, mewed an intention, it
is true, to make one ; but we faw even few of thefe. No beaten road was
to be found ; ten times already we had miffed our way. We had to
travel eighteen miles over felled trees, deep morales, rocks, and loofe
ftones. The girth of the baggage- horfe broke two or three times ; Mr.
Guillemard's mare, who was badly faddled, twice loft her iaddle on a
fteep road, and threw her rider. She ran away and fcattered part of
her load ; a brace of piftols was loft ; our horfes were exhaufted with
fatigue ; we were tired, faint with hunger, and unable to difcover any
human habitation on the road. A few houfes ftanding at fome diftancc

M from

82 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

from it, which we vifited, could not fupply our wants ; and, to err-
creafe our misfortunes, it rained all day long. At length we found
fome oats at an honeft German's, whofe wife procured us alfo milk
and eggs. Thus refremed, we purfued our journey, not without feve-
ral new accidents befalling our baggage ; and at laft reached Wilkfbarre.
My friend's horfe was lame, the faddle was broken to pieces by the ac-
cident in the ferry-boat, and our cloaths were torn ; but at Dr. Cowell's
we found a good fire, a good ftable, good eggs, fait meat (frefh meat
is entirely out of the queftion) and thus, as we fmoaked our fegars,
indulged the pleafant thought of having efcaped all thefe misfortunes.

Wilkfbarre frauds on a wide and fertile plain. The profpe&, osi
defcending the mountains by the creek of Nantikoke, is one of the
richeft, moil exten five, and moil delightful, we have yet feen. The
land is in a high {late of cultivation. We were not able to obtain any
new information, that deferves to be mentioned.

1 Wilkfbarre is the chief town of the county of Luzerne. It is a fmall
place, containing about a hundred wooden houfes, of a much better
appearance than thole in Northumberland. The town is feated on the
Sufquehannah, and muft in time become confiderable, if the country,
which lies higher up, mail be more generally cultivated. It is even
now of fome importance, and has about two hundred and fifty inhabi-
tants. The population of the whole county is eftimated at five thou-
fand fouls.

Wednefday, the 20th of May.

Mr. Guillernard's mare being lamed by our misfortunes of yefterday,
he refolved to leave her at Wilkfbarre, under the care of his fervant.
We accordingly fet out by ourfelves. A new road was propofed to us,
which fhortens the journey twenty miles, but is untrodden. However,
having yefterday had enough of new roads, we preferred the old, though
it was bad, and twenty miles longer. At the end of our firfl day*s
journey, we reached Huntsferry. The road was bad, and we were fe-
veral times obliged to travel in foot-paths, which were hardly pafT-

able,

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 83

able. We frequently met with quarries of mill-ftone, and with fpots,
where a path, only eighteen inches in breadth, was cut through the
rock,, or where the road was fupported by trunks of trees, narrowed
by falls of earth, obflrticled by fallen trees, and led along the edges of
a precipice. We often pafTed over declivities, rendered more danger-
ous by the ground being ftrewed with loofe ftones, or fragments of
rock. Fortunately it fo happened, that we never got more than a few
yards out of our road ; but we were obliged to enquire the way of
every one we met, to avoid more confiderable deviation. The dwelling-
houfes in this diftrict are moft of them fo new, that the inhabitants are
often ignorant of the names of places, which are fcarce two miles dif-
tant ; nor are they able to point out the direction and diftance, fo that
their information beyond the next farm-houfe is not to be depended
upon. There is not one inn on the whole road, but fome private indi-
viduals are in the habit of felling oats to travellers. They live at cer-
tain diftances, and, being known, travellers conftantly put up at their
houfes. The firft day we halted at the houfe of one HARRIS, twelve
miles from Wilkfoarre, and afterwards at HARDING'S, fifteen miles far-
ther on. Both are farmers ; the former, a captain of the militia, is
richer, and has been eftablifhed much longer than the latter. They are
both very bad hufbandmen ; they cultivate nothing but Indian corn and
potatoes, in a foil, which is, for the moft part, poor, and, with few excep-
tions, produces nothing but fpruce fir and the common birch. All the
-cultivated fields are inclofed with fences, which confift of poles of wood,
once fplit, and and laid zig-zag upon one another without any ftakes ;
a manner f fencing, general in all parts of America, at the firft clear-
ing of the ground. The expence of clearing ground amounts, in this
diftrict, to feven or eight dollars an acre.

Five miles beyond Harding's habitation, we crofted the river in a very
bad ferry-boat, and arrived at HUNT'S, an Irimman, who fettled here
ten years ago. We found in his houfe Indian corn for our horfes, but
neither oats nor hay, and no milk for ourfelves, nor even an egg. The
houfe confifts of one room on the ground-floor, and of a corn-loft over

M 2 it

84 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

it. Beds were not to be had. Hunt took an old paillaffe from his-
own bed, and lent it me for the night; and on this, with my faddle-
cloth, I refted comfortably. By Hunt's account, the fpot, which he
inhabits, is very unwholefome ; and fo, he fays, are the banks of the
river in general for fome way, higher up, or lower down. His young
and handfome wife has laboured under a hectic fever, for thefe eight
months.

Thurfday, the lift of May.

In the morning we halted at one Mr. GAYLOR'S, eleven miles from
our lafl night's quarters. All the dwelling-houfes are of the fame fort.
We purfued our journey to Afylum by Wyalufing. The latter is a
confiderable village, feated on a creek, from which it takes its name.
The road is the fame as yefterday, at times even and good, often re-
cently cut through the wood, or interrupted by new fettlements, the
fences of which occailon a circuit of near a furlong, at the end of
which it is difficult to find the road again.

Nearly all the plantations, which we have hitherto traverfed in this
diftricl:, have been more or lefs recently formed by families, who de-
rive their titles from Connecticut. The right of property claimed by
that fbte, in regard to thefe lands, has been declared to be unfounded,
firfl by arbitrators in Trenton, three or four years ago, and fmce that
by the judges of affize, who hold their fittings in Philadelphia. The laft
fentence has excited general difcontent in thefe parts ; and, in truth,
ihould it be confirmed by the fupreme court of juftice, the natural
eonfequence muft be a general difpoffeffing of all the cultivators, who
have fettled here by right of purchafe, or gift from the date of Connec-
ticut, and who have fpent feveral years labour on a foil, on which they
eftablimed themfelves in the moft le^al form. Several of thefe fettlers

were, during the laft war, driven from their poffeffions by the Indians,
who deftroyed all the buildings, and burnt the woods, as far as they
were able, on their retreat. Thefe are indeed fufficient reafons for dif-
content ; and the ftate of Pennfylvania, fatisfied with being reinflated

iu.

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHRFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 85

ia its right to thefe lands, will undoubtedly leave them in the poffeffiou
of thofe families, who, bonajide, obtained them either for money, or
by their labour. If Pennsylvania had fold the fame lands, the fu-
preme court of judicature would doubtlefs award an indemnification in
money. But in the United States, whofe conftitution is, and muft be
founded on the rights of man, and modelled by juftice, peaceful and iu-
duftrious inhabitants will never be driven from their pofTeffions, or
expelled from their homes. The foldiers, ordered to carry fuch a fen-
tence into execution, would be too deeply affected ; their own feelings
would contradict the oath of allegiance they have taken, and humanity
would forbid them, to co-operate in the execution of the law. The
flate of Pennfylvania is too wife, and too juft, not to embrace, in thefe
circumftances, a relolution, which is dictated by the very principles it
profeiTes.

The inhabitants, who derive their titles from Connecticut, form,
we were told, two diftinct claffes, whofe rights are of a widely differ-
ent complexion. One clafs fettled here long before any public difcuf-
fion of the claims of the two ftates took place ; and moft of thefe had
to rebuild their houfes, which, as has already been mentioned, were
deftroyed during the war. The other clafs formed their fettlements*
after the above award, fblicited by both ftates, had been ififued, and
therefore were not, or, at leaft, iliould not have been ignorant of the
hazard, to which they expofed themfelves. Several perfons in Connec-
ticut have proceeded in this bufinefs in a manner extremely blameable,
efpecially one Colonel FRANKLIN, who, two years ago, decoyed fe-
veral families into this country, notwithftanding the oppofition of the
flate of Pennfylvania, and of all the friends of order, who difcouraged
thefe unfair proceedings, and foretold to the new fettlers, that they
would foon be difpofleffed of their eftates. Moft of the families lately
arrived here are poor. They obtained the land gratis, and are the lefs
difturbed in their prefent momentary enjoyments, by apprehenfions of
fome future difpofleffion, as the character of many among them is not
of the faireft complexion. The colonel acted on the principle, that an,

increafe

86 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

increafe of the number of colonifts would increafe the force of refift-
ance againft the fenteiice of a judicial difpofleflion, in which, being
himfelf a proprietor, he is perfonally concerned. This difference, in
point of the period of pofTefiion, and of the fpecies of property, ren-
ders it far more eafy to accommodate matters, than it might otherwife
have proved ; fin.ce the difference being fettled with the landholders of
the former clafs, the execution of any vigorous rneafure, which it may
be neceflary to adopt again ft thofe of the latter, will be greatly facili-
tated.

Afylum {lands on the right bank of the Sufquehannah, which muft
be croiTed, in order to reach this fcttlement. It has been only fifteen
years eftablimed. MeiTrs. TALON and De NOAILLES, who arrived here
from England, richer in hopes than in cam, fancied they fhould be able
to purchafe, cultivate, and people two hundred thoufand acres of land.
They interefted in their project fome planters of St. Domingo, who efcap-
ed from the ruins of that colony, and who had prudence enough care-.
fully to preferve the remains of their fortune. Meflrs. Morris and Ni-
cholfon, who poflefs im men fe tracks of land in the United States, were
willing and ready to meet their views. Lands were -chofen on the
northern banks of the Sufquehannah ; the price and infralments were
regulated, and the firft trees felled* on the fpot, which was {elected for
-the town. Mr. de Noailles took upon himfelf the management of the
concerns of the company in Philadelphia. Mr. Talon caufed the firft
log-houfes to be erected here, and the land to be prepared for the recep-
tion of the new inhabitants. But they foon difcovered, that they
ihould be difappointed of all the money, which they had hoped to re-
ceive. Meflrs. Morris and Nicholfon readily releafed them from this
.firft difficulty, and the contract was refcinded. From exclufive pro-
prietors of thefe lands, the above gentlemen became aflbciates and part-
ners in trade with Meflrs. Morris and Nicholfon, in all the profits arifmg
from their fale, and the quantity was enlarged to a million of acres.
Each of them kept about fix thoufand acres, as his private property, the

* In December, 1793.

price

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 87

price of which was fomewhat raifed ; but more diflant periods of pay-
ment were fixed. Mr. Talon was appointed agent for the company,
with a falary of three thoufand dollars. The buildings, as well as all
other expences, were, with the con feat of MefTrs. Morris and Nichol-
fon, placed to the account of the company. The ufe of the mofl cort-
fiderable houfe, built by Mr. Talon, was affigned to himfelf as agent.
Ignorance of the language of the country, want of practice in bufinefs
of this kind, avocations of a different nature, and the embarrafTments
of the company, have deprived Mr. Talon of the mofl exquifite hap-
pinefs, an emigrated Frenchman can poffibly enjoy, to open a peaceful
and comfortable afylum for his unfortunate countrymen, to a (lift them
in the firil moments of their fettlement, and thus to- become the
founder of a colony, which would have proved as honourable to the
name of a Frenchman, as ufeful to the unfortunate fufferers, whom it
would have received. An enormous expence, -partly incurred without
a mature consideration of the plan, occasioned deficiencies. The com-
pany was not able to fulfil its engagements. The exertions of Mr.
Talon and his aflbciates were not equal to the removal of thefe diffi-
culties ; and it becoming evident, that the colony could not attain
proiperity fo quickly as Mr. Talon had expected, he refigned his fitua-
tion as agent to Mr. Nicholfon, and fold him his mare in the property
of the company, who, having fix months before bought that of Mr. de
Noailles alio, is now become fole proprietor of the land.

This is a brief fketch of the hiftory of Afylum. There cannot re-
main a doubt, but that this eftablifhment, the plan of which is cer-
tainly the work of much deliberation, would have proved more fuccefs-
ful, had it been formed by degrees, and with a fuffident fupply of
ready money. For notwithflanding the errors committed in the exe-
cution of the plan, and the adverfe incidents it has met with, Afylum
has already attained an uncommon degree of perfection, confidering its
infant flate. Thirty houfes, built in this town, are inhabited by fa^
milies from St. Domingo, and from France, by French artizans, and
even by Americans. Some inns and two (hops have been eftablifhed,

the

83 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

the bufmefs of which is con deferable. Several town- mares have been
put into very good condition ; and the fields and gardens begin to be pro-
ductive. A confiderable quantity of ground has been cleared, on the
creek Loyalfock ; where the company has allotted twenty-five thou-
fand acres of land, in part of a hundred thoufand acres, which the
inhabitants of Afylum have purchafed by fubfcription. Similar agri-
cultural operations, which take place in almoft every town-mare, are
intended to enliven, at once, all the different parts of this large tract of
ground. The town-fhares confift each of four hundred acres, from ten
to twenty of which are cleared. The owner can therefore either fettle
there himfelf, at the end of the year, or entruft it to a farmer. The
clearing of the town-fhares is, at prefent, effected by fubfcription,
on this principle ; that for every acre belonging to a fubfcriber, who
has cleared ten acres, five of which only are enclofed with fences, nine
dollars are paid.

Mr. de MONTULE, one of the inhabitants of Afylum, directs this,
clearing of the ground ; the plan of which he conceived for the welfare
of the colony. The fentiments of the colonifts are good. Every one
follows his bufmefs, the cultivator as well as the inn-keeper and tradef-
man, with as much zeal and exertion, as if he had been brought up
to it. The foil is tolerably good, the climate healthful. Almoft all
the ingredients of a thriving colony concur in Afylum, and afford
room to hope, that thefe great natural advantages will, in time, be im-
proved, for the benefit and profperity of the colonifts. A new trading
company has fuperfeded the former ; at leaft the firm and management
of the company's concerns have been altered. Mr. Robert Morris has
entirely left it, and Mr. Nicholfon, being now the only proprietor, has
formed a bank of his million of acres, divided into five thoufand mares,
containing each two hundred acres, the price of which, at two dol-
dollars and half per acre, is five hundred dollars. They bear fix per
cent intereft, which increafes in proportion to the flate of the land ;
and at the expiration of fifteen years, the period at which the company
is to be diflblved, all the benefits and advantages accruing to the bank

are

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOUIIT. 8Q

are to be divided among the holders of {hares. An office has been efta-
blifhed by the latter, for the direction and management of the concerns
of the bank.

This new company, taught by the errors of the former, will no doubt
make it their principal bufinefs, to promote the profperity of Afylum ;
which, alone, can, in any confiderable manner, increafe the value of
the land. Yet fome previous facrifices will alfo be required for that
purpofe. It will be necefTary to conftruct new roads, and repair the
old ones. Encouragement muft alfo be given to the families, which
already inhabit Afylum ; and advantageous offers muft be held out to
fuch, as may be difpofed to fettle there. If thefe things be done, Afy-
lum will foon be peopled. Motives arifing from French manners and
opinions have hitherto prevented even French families from fettling
here. Thefe are now, however, in great meafure removed, and if
the company mall proceed with judgment and prudence, as it is to be
hoped they will, there can hardly remain a doubt, but tlpt Afylum will
fpeedily become a place of importance. Its fituation on the Sufque-
hannah, two hundred miles from its fource, fits it in a peculiar manner
for an emporium of the inland trade. French activity, fupported with
money, will certainly accelerate its growth ; and this will donbtlefs in
time convince the world, that the enterprife and affiduity of French-
men are equally confpicuous in profperous and adverfe circumftances.

The following families have either already fettled, or intend to fet-
tle, at Afylum, viz. i. Mr. de BLACONS, deputy for Dauphine, in the
conftituent aflembly. Since his quitting France, he has married Ma-
demoifelle de MAULDE, late canonefs of the chapter of Bonbourg*
They keep a haberdafher's mop. Their partner is Mr. COLIN, formerly
Abbe de Sevigny, arch-deacon of Tours, and confelller au grand confeiL
2. Mr. de MONTULE, late captain of a troop of horfe, married to a lady
of St. Domingo, who refides at prefent at Pottfgrove. 3. Madame de
SYBERT, coufm to Mr. de Montule, and relict of a rich planter of St.
Domingo. 4. Mr. BECDELIERRE, formerly a canon, now a mop-
keeper ; his partners are the two Meflrs. de la Roue, one of whom

N was

TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

was formerly a petit gens-d'anne^ and the other a captain of infantry.
The latter has married a fitter of Madame SYBERT, Mademoifelle de
BERCY, who intends to eftablifh an inn on the road from Afylum to
Loyalfock, eight miles from the former place, whither ihe is on the
point of removing with her hufband. 6. Mr. BEAULIEU, formerly a
captain of infantry in the French fervice, who ferved in America,
during the laft war, in the legion of Potolky. He has remained ever
fince in this country, has married an Englifh lady, and now keeps an
inn. 7. Mr. BUZARD, a planter of St. Domingo, and phyfician in that
colony, who has fettled at Afylum with his wife, daughter, and fon,
and fome negroes, the remains of his fortune. 8. Mr. de NOAILLES,
a planter of St. Domingo. 9. Mr. DANDELOT, of Franchecomte, late
an officer of infantry, who left France on account of the revolution, and
arrived here destitute of property, but was kindly received by Mr. Talon,
and is now engaged in agricultural purfuits with fpirit and fuccefs. i o.
Mr. du PETIT THOUARS, an officer of the navy, who, encouraged by.
the conftituent aflembly, and affifted by a fubfcription, embarked in an
expedition in queft of Mr. de la Peroufe. He was detained on the coaft of
Brafil by the governor of the colony, Fernando de Noriguez, and fent
with his crew to Portugal, where he was very ill treated by the -Por-
tuguefe government, ftripped of all his property, and only eicaped far-
ther perfecution by fleeing to America, where he lives free and happy,
without property, yet without want. He is employed in clearing about
two or three hundred acres of land, which have been prefented to him.
His fociable, mild, yet truly original temper and character, are fet off
by a noble flmplicity of manners *. n. Mr. NORES, a young gentle-
man, who embarked with Mr. du Petit Thouars, and efcaped with him
to this country. He formerly wore the petit collet f, was a pupil of
Mr. de la Chapelle, poffefTor of a fmall priory, and now earns his

* Du Petit Thouars returned afterwards to France, obtained the command of a (hip of
the line, and was killed in the unfortunate battle off the mouth of the Nile. Tranjl.

t The petit collet (little band) was formerly a diftinguifhing mark of the fecular
clergy in France. Tranjl.

fubfiftencG

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCIIfiFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. Ql

fubfiftence by cultivating the ground. 12. Mr. KEATING, an Irimman,
and late captain of the regiment of Welm. At the beginning of the re-
volution he was in St. Domingo, where he poflefTed the confidence of all
parties, but refufed the moil tempting offers of the commiflioners of
the affembly, though his fentiments were truly democratic. It was
his choice and determination, to retire to America without a (hilling in
his pocket, rather than to acquire power and opulence in St. Domingo
by violating his firft oath. He is a man of uncommon merit, diftin-
guilhed abilities, extraordinary virtue, and invincible difintereftednefs.
His deportment is grave, yet affable. His advice and prudence have
proved extremely ferviceable to Mr. Talon in every department of his
buiinefs. It was he who negociated the late arrangements between
MefTrs. Morris and Nicholfon ; and it may be juftly faid, that the
confidence, which his uncommon abilities and virtue infpire, enables him.
to adjuft matters of difpute with much greater facility than moil other
perfons. 13. Mr. RENAUD and family. He is a rich merchant of St. Do-
mingo, who has juft arrived with very confiderable property, preferved
from the wreck of an immenfe fortune. 14. Mr. CARLES, a prieft and
canon of Guernfey, who retired to America with a fmall fortune, and
who has now fettled at Afylum ; he is an induftrious and much-re-
ipecled farmer. 15. Mr. PREVOST, a citizen of Paris, celebrated
there for his benevolence ; he was a member of all benevolent focie-
ties, treafurer of the philanthropic fociety, and retired to America with
fome property, a confiderable part of which he expended on a fettle-
ment, which he attempted to eftablifh on the banks of the Sufquehan-
nah, but which did not eventually fucceed. He now cultivates his lot
of ground on the Loyalfock, as if his whole life had been devoted to
the fame purfuit ; and the cheerful ferenity of a gentle, candid, philo-
fophical mind, ftill attends him in his laborious retreat. His wife and
fiiler-in-law, who have alfo fettled here, mare in his tranquillity and
his happinefs. 16. Madame d'AuTREMONT, with her three children.
She is the widow of a ileward at Paris. Two of her fons are grown
up : one was a notary, and the other a watch-maker; but they have

N 2 now

92 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

now become hewers of wood, and tillers of the ground, and fecure by
their zeal, fpirit, politenefs, and unblemiihed character, the fympathy
and refpetT: of every feeling mind.

Some families of artifans are alfo eftablifhed at Afylum ; and fuch
as conduct themfelves properly earn great wages. This cannot be faid
of the greateft part of them. They are, in general, very indifferent
workmen, and much addicted to drunkennefs. In time they will be
fuperfeded by more valuable men ; and American families, of a better
defcription, will fettle here : for thofe, who refide at prefent at Afy-
lum, are fcarcely worth keeping.

One of the greateft impediments to the profperity of this fettlement
will probably arife from the prejudices of fome Frenchmen againft
the Americans, unlefs felf-intereft and reafon mould prove the means
of removing them. Thefe are frequently manifefted with that incon-
fiderate levity, with which Frenchmen, in general, decide on things
and perfons of the greateft moment ; fome of them vauntingly de-
clare, that they will never learn the language of the country, or en-
ter into cow ver fat ion with an American. Whether particular facts
and occurrences can juftify this prejudice, in regard to individuals, I will
not affirm ; but certain it is, that they can never juftify it in the lati-
tude of a general opinion. A conduct founded on fuch prejudices would
prove extremely hurtful to the interests of the colony ; the progrefs of
which has been already retarded by fo many unavoidable obftacles, that
there certainly is no occafion to create new ones, by purpofely exciting
the animofity of a people, among whom the colony has been formed,
and who, in the judgment of every impartial man, muft be confidered
as in a ftate of lefs degeneracy than many European nations.

The real farmers, who reticle at Afylum, live, upon the whole*
on very good terms with each other ; being duly fenfible, that har-
mony is requilite, to render their fhuation comfortable and happy. They
poflefs no confiderable property, and their way of life is fimple. Mr.
Talon lives in a manner fomewhat more .fplendid, as he is obliged to
maintain a number of perfons, to whom his afliftance was indifpenfable.

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 03

It is to be wifhed and hoped, that the whole fettlement may prove
ultimately fuccefsful. A more convenient fpot might, doubtlefs, have
been chofen. But not to mention, that all ex pojl fafto judgments are
unfair, the prefent fituation of the colony appears fo advantageous, as
to warrant the moil: fanguine hopes of fuccefs. Induftrious families,
however, without whom no fettlement can profper, mufl: be invited to
it; for it muft be confidered, that, however polimed its prefent inhabi-
tants may be, the gentleman cannot fo eafily difpenfe with the affiftance
of the artift and the hufbandman, as thefe can with that of the gentle-
man.

A fpeedy adjuftment of the prefent differences between- Connecticut
and Pennfylvania, with refpedt to the eftates contiguous to the lands of
Afylum, would alfo prove a defirable and fortunate circumftance for
this colony. None but perfons of indifferent character are willing to
fettle on ground, the title to which remains a matter of difpute. Even
the fmall number of colonifts we found between Wilkfbarre and Tio-
ga are by no means praifeworthy in their morals ; and they are poor,
lazy, drunken, quarrelfome, and extremely negligent in the culture of
their lands. The valuable emigrants from New-England, from the
eaftern branch of the Sufquehannah, who fhould be encouraged to fet-
tle here, will certainly not make their appearance, till they can be fure
of cultivating their land without oppofition, and of retaining the un-
difturbed poffeffion of their eftates. It is therefore of the greateft
importance to the company of Afylum, that this weighty bufinefs
mould be fpeedily and finally adjufted. When that is accomplimed,
the company will doubtlefs embrace the earlieft opportunity of advertifing
the whole million of acres ; they will endeavour to combine feparate
eftates with each other, by purchafing the intervening lands ; they
will make public their right of property, purfue a well concerted ge-
neral plan, execute it with the requifite care and difpatch, and make
the neceflary facrifices. They will perceive how advantageous and im-
portant it is, to place Afylum, as it were, in full activity, by conftruct-
ing the roads already projected and commenced, by eftablifhing a
fchool, by inviting iaduftrious fettlers, and by endeavouring to me-
liorate

94 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

liorate the breeds of horfes and cattle : in fliort, by encouraging ufeful
eftablimm'ents of every kind. A few hundreds of dollars, laid out here
properly, would produce the moft coniiderable and lading improvements.
In fuch cafes, however, it is requiiite to calculate well, that we may
expend judicioufly. By prudent and liberal meafures, the profperity of
this French colony, and consequently of the company, would be efien-
tially infured and promoted. And when this fettlement mall have
once ripened into a fiourifhing ftate, it will ferve to connect the coun-
try, which is already cultivated along the banks of the river, above and
below Afylum, and thus prove a fource of animation to this intereft-
ing part of Pennfylvania. But unlefs active and judicious meafures be
purfued, Afylum will inevitably fufFer from the partial inconveniences,
which attend its fituation, and from the errors committed in the firft
formation of this colony ; and inftead of attaining to the wifhed for prof-
perity, it mutt, on the contrary, find its decline, if not downfal, in
the very nature of its eftablimment.

Every thing in this fettlement, at prefent, appears in a precarious
condition. The price of provifion depends on a variety of fluctuating
circumftances. By the activity and prudence of ceitain individuals the
town is abundantly fupplied with grain and meat, and this honeft eco-
nomy keeps proviiion at a moderate price. But me'n of a lefs liberal
way of thinking have it alfo in their power to occailon fcarciry of the
iirft neceflaries of life, and raife their price to a rate beyond all pro-
portion to that of other commodities. The information, which I have
been able to collect, relative to the flate of agriculture, however accu-
rate at the prefent moment, can hardly be thought fufficient for the di-
rection of a planter, who mould incline to fettle here ; I mall, how-
ever, lay it before my readers, fuch as it is.

The land behind the town is tolerably good ; but that on the banks
of the river, confifts of excellent meadows, laid out by families, who fet-
tled here, before the prefent colonies, producing very good hay, pretty
confiderable in quantity, and they are capable of ftill farther improve-
ment. The foil of Loyalibck is, in general, excellent. Many trees

grow

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT. Q5

grow there, which evince its goodnefs, fuch as, the white Virginian
walnut-tree, white oak, plane-tree, fugar-rmple and hemlock-fir. It is
a circumftance worthy of notice, that half-way between Loyalfock and
Afylum, common oak, which in the fields about the latter place is found
in abundance, becomes at once fo fcarce, that not two hundred oak trees
grow in the whole diftnft of Loyalfock, which contains two thoufand
five hundred acres. The price of the company's land is at prefent two
dollars and half per acre ; very little however is fold. That of the town
of Afylum fetches little more ; although there is little doubt, that the
price will rife gradually to ten dollars. The land contiguous to Afy-
lum, which docs not belong to the company, being at prefent in an
unfettled (late with refpeft to the right of property, this circumflance
renders it a very undefirable podeflion for fuch fettlers, as do not wifh
to expofe themfelves to the danger of fubfequent litigations, and con-
quently to being difpoflefled of their pur-chafes-. Hitherto the grain ap-
pears to have fuffered but little from the Heflian fly and from blights. The
winter lafts here from four months and half to five months. Agriculture

however has hitherto advanced fo llowly, that the cattle fufFer much
during that feafon from want of fodder. They are, for the mofl part,
fed with turnips, gourds, and flraw of Indian corn. Both oxen and
cows are of a very indifferent fort, as little attention has been paid to
the breed of cattle brought hither by the fettlers. Both feed-time and
harveft take place here about a fortnight later than in the vicinity of
Philadelphia. The land yields about fifteen or twenty bufhels of
wheat, fixty bulhels of Indian corn, and three tuns of hay per acre.
The foil feems naturally better adapted for meadows than for corn land;
but from the little trouble attending the driving of the cattle into the fo-
reft, the produce in corn is rather apparently great than fo in fa ft. In
ploughing they generally employ oxen, which, it mould be obferved,
are not fubjeft to any particular difcafe. They are at times driven to
Philadelphia; and the country people frequently aft here with fo little
judgment, as even to fend them two hundred miles off, when they
might obtain much better prices, and even ready money, in the neigh-
bour hood o

96 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

bourhood. The bullocks, which are confumcd in Afylum, are gene-
rally brought from the back fettlements, but it is frequently found ne-
ceflary, to fend thither for them. They are generally plentiful : the
uncommon duration of the laft winter, however, proved fo de-
ftru&ive to the cattle, that few are now to be feen, and a great
fcarcity of beef prevails at Afylum, as well as in various other parts of
America.

The grain, which is not confnmed in Afylum, finds a market in
Wilkfbarre, and is tranfported thither on the river. In the fame man-
ner all kinds of merchandize are conveyed from Philadelphia to Afy-
lum. They are carried in waggons as far as Harriiburg, and thence
ient in barges up the river. The freight amounts, in the whole, to
two dollars per cwt. The fait comes from the falt-houfes at GenefTee,
on the lake of Ontario. Flax is produced in the country about Afy-
lum ; and the foil is very fit for producing crops of that commodity.
Maple-fugar is made here in great abundance. Each tree is com-
puted to yield, upon an average, from two pounds and half to three
a year. Melafies and vinegar are alfo prepared here. I have feen
MefTrs. De VILAINE and DANDELOT make fugar in this place, which
much furpafles any of the fame kind, that has hitherto come under
my obfervation. A confiderable quantity of tar is alfo made, and fold
for four dollars per barrel, containing thirty-two gallons. Day-labourers
are paid at the rate of five millings a day. Mr. de Montule em-
ploys workmen from the eaftern branch of the river, to clear his land ;
to thefe he pays half a dollar a day, befides allowing them their
victuals ; the overfeer receives a dollar and a third per day ; thefe peo-
ple turn out to be very good workmen. They are- eafily procured,
when employment is enfured to them for any length of time ; but
otherwife, it is very difficult to obtain them. The manufacture of pot-
afhes has alfo been commenced at Afylum ; and it is in contemplation
to attempt the brewing of malt-liquor. A corn-mill and a faw-mill are
building on the Loyalfock.

The foregoing is a brief fketch of the prefent ftate of this interefting

fettlement,

Bt THE DUKE BE LA HOCHEPOUCAtTLT LIANCOURT. g7

fettlement, which, even a twelvemonth hence, will no longer retain,
its prefent features. To judge from the actual condition of the . pro-
bable progrefs and duration of this infant colony, it muft either rife
or fall rapidly. It is to be hoped, that the want of fimiiarity to the
original in my description, which may be obfervable next year in the
colony, will arife from its rapid progrefs towards maturity ; and this
hope is grounded on probable appearances.

Tttefday, tlie id of June.

On our arrival at Afylum, it was not our intention to have flopped
more than four days in that place. But the pieafure of meeting with
Mr. and Madame de Blacons, a defire to obtain a thorough knowledge
of the prefent flate of the colony, as well as of its profpects of future
improvement ; and the cordial reception we experienced from all its in-
habitants, induced us to add four days to our flay ; and, in the whole,
we flopped twelve days. On Tuefday, the ad of June, we at lengtk
took our departure. MefTrs. De Blacons and Du Petit Thouars joined our
caravan ; the latter, who travelled on foot, had fet out the preced-
ing evening. The road from Afylum to Tioga leads, like the reft,
through continued woods. We preferred that on the right bank ; as we
fliould then be obliged to crofs the river only once. The road is in fbme
places exceffively miry and flony, although in others it is very. good.
On the whole it may be called tolerable, yet it is often difficult to be
found. It affords but few flriking profpecls. The Sufquehannah, which
we met with but once, during our whole journey, flows conflantly.
between two chains of mountains, which feem to encroach upon its
channel, but from time to time open into vallies more or lefs deep,
but never very extenfive.

We flopped at SOLOMON TEASY'S, to refl our horfes. This planter
occupies an eflate of five hundred acres, only thirty of which are yet
cleared, and which belongs to the village of Old Shefhequen. Its
owner arrived here about five years ago, from the county of Orange,
ui the flate of New York ; but he now intends to fettle in GenefTee ;

O and,

$ TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

and, confequently, wiflies to diipofe of his plantation, which he holds
from the ftate of Connecticut ; the price he demands is five thoufand three
hundred and ninety dollars, that is to fay, about ten dollars and three-
fourths per acre. Another -landholder, at whofe houfe we flopped to
procure directions about the road, intimated to us a fimilar delign, as he
miftook us for land-jobbers. His plantation confifted of three hundred
acres, fixty of which were cleared, with a corn and a faw-mill ; which
he eftimated at one thoufand three hundred dollars. He aiked for the
whole eftate two thoufand fix hundred dollars, which is tantamount to
eight dollars and half per acre. The ftate of agriculture is no better
here than in the other parts of Pennfylvania, and even worfe than in
many of them, all the plantations being yet in that infant ilate, where
the foil yields rich crops without cultivation. The fetflers too are
doubtful whether their rights to their poffeffions will be confirmed,
.have much bufinefs upon their hands, and are in general little able to
advance money for the improvement of their lands, fo that they hardly
give themfelves the trouble even to plough up the ground. For this
purpofe they make ufe of oxen, the medium price of a yoke of which
is feventy dollars. Wheat commonly fells for one dollar a bumel, rye
for four millings, and oats from two millings and fix-pence to three
Shillings. There are two fchools in the neighbouring country, which
are both kept by women, who teach needle- work and reading. To learn
to read is, therefore, the only inftruftion, which boys can obtain here.
Thefe fchools are maintained folely by the fee of five fhillings a quar-
ter paid by each fcholar. They are evidently infufficieat, yet they are
fchools ; and thefe are yet very rare in Pennfylvania.

No place has been hitherto fet apart here for religious worfhip. They,
who defire to perform this, aflemble in private houfes, and engage a
preacher for a yearly falary, which, however, is very fmall. Families
of methodifts conftitute the principal part of the inhabitants.

On the other fide of the river ilands New Shemeqiien, a fmall
neat town, containing about twelve houfes, which are built either of
rough logs or boards. It is feated in a very pleafant plain. The

juilice

BY THE DUKB DE LA. HOCHUFOtTCAULT LIANCOURT. {JJ

juftice of the peace, the furgeon, and the paftor of the neighbouring
country, refide in this place. It contains {hops, in fhort all thofe things
which are found only in a principal town.

The road from Old Shemequen to Tioga, which had been repre*
Rented to us as a very bad one, proved, on the contrary, very good.
Here the farm-houfes lie clofer to each other. Near Tioga, the
river of the fame name difcharges itfelf into the Sufquehannah. The
fite of the town, or rather of the eight or ten houfes which are fo
called, is about two miles diftant from the confluence of the twa
rivers, and very pleafant. The mountains, which form the banks
of the Sufquehannah, do not lie fo clofe together, as in any other part
of its courfe that we have yet feen. The country behind Tioga de-
fcends into a plain of upwards of three miles in extent. The foil is
good ; and, from the fituation of the town, it is likely to acquire fomc
importance in time, when the land on both fides of the river {hall become
cultivated and populous. There is not one fpring, however, to be found
cither on the fpot where the town {kinds, or in its vicinity, fo that the
inhabitants are obliged either to fink wells, or to fetch water from the
river ; and, in either cafe, the water is far from being good. The price
of land, in the neighbourhood of the town, is eight dollars per acre,
when, out of three hundred acres, to the proportion of fifty or fixty
are already cleared of wood. The town-fhares are fixteen yards in
breadth by fifty in depth, and coft twenty dollars. The price qf
wheat is feven (hillings and fix-pence per bumel, rye fells for fix mil-
lings a bumel, and oats from three to four millings. Some venifoa
excepted, which at times comes to market, no frefh meat has been feen
at Tioga fince laft autumn. The merchants of the place carry on an
inconfiderable trade in hemp, which they get from the upper parts
of the river, and fend to Philadelphia by Middle Town. We were in-
formed, that the mops at Afylum prove very hurtful to the trade of
Tioga, a complaint which gave our fellow-traveller, who keeps a
(hop in Afylum, no fmali fatisfacYion.

Laft year there were three inns in Tioga, but, at this time, it con*

O 2 tain*

MX)

TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

tains but one ; we found it crowded with travellers from the Jerfeys,
Pennfylvania, and New York, who intended to fettle on the lakes. Af-
ter a fcanty fupper, we were all obliged to take up with two beds;
more were not to be obtained on any terms. The meets, which had
already ferved three or four other travellers, were, according to the
landlady's account, very clean ; and fo indeed they are called, in all the
American inns, when they are in fat totally unfit for ufe. Yet, on the
other hand, we enjoyed the fpecial favour of being permitted to lie down
in boots, as thofe of our party really did, who, like myfelf, preferred
taking their repofe on the ground, wrapped up in a blanket.

Wednefday^ the %d of June.

Our company confifted, as I have already mentioned, of four perfon?,
one of whom (Mr. du Petit Thouars) travelled on foot, but whom we
had promifed to relieve occafionally by walking in rotation part of the
way.

Near Tioga we turned from the river Sufquehannah, along the
banks 4>f which we had travelled near two hundred and fifty miles, and
yet the fource of that branch which we quitted is diftant two hundred
miles ftill farther inland ; it rifes near the Mohawk's river. The Suf-
quehannah, throughout its courfe, ferves to open up an extenfive coun-
try of rich fertile foil, and which is likely to acquire an increafing
importance from its navigation, that extends as far as to the Che-
fapeak. It is an unfavourable circumilance, however, that its courfe
is fo frequently broken by rapids, which, even at high water, can-
not be paffed without danger by fmall veffels. It is in fiich fmall
vefTels, or on rafts, conftrufted of trunks of trees covered with boards,
that cargoes of provifion, &c., are at prefent tranfported. Thele rafts,
which draw but little water in proportion to the breadth and extent of
their furface, are moftly laden with proviiion for the lower country.
The navigation of thefe rafts and veffels is fometimes impeded by ob-
flacles infurmountable ; they are many times mattered from being
dafhed on the banks or (hallows, and often beaten entirely to pieces.

The

BY THE DUKE DE LA JROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 1OI

The number of men, and efpecially of vefTels, thus wrecked and loft,
is very confiderable.

At the diflance of four miles from Tioga, the ftate of Pennfylvania
borders upon Ne\v York, and here begins a new ftandard of coinage.
A dollar, which in Penniylvania is worth only feven {hillings and fix-
pence, is here, with greater convenience and propriety, divided into
eight millings.

Near the confines of Pennfylvania a mountain rifes from the bank
of the river Tioga, in the fhape of a fugar-loaf, upon which are feen
the remain^ of fame entrenchments ; thefe the inhabitants call the
Span'ijh rampart y but I rattier judge them to have been thrown up
againft the Indians in the times of Mr. de Nouville. One perpendicu-
lar bread-work is yet remaining, which, though covered over with
.grafs and bufhes, plainly indicates, that a parapet and a ditch have been
.contracted here.

We flopped to breakfaft about ten miles from Tioga^ at the houfe of
one Mr. WARREN, a landholder, who fettled here four years ago. His
eflate along the rivet confifts of three hundred and fcventy acres of
land, fifty of which only are cleared ; the reft are flony, hilly, and
poor. The price of wheat is one dollar, oats three (hillings and fix
pence, and rye five millings per bufhel. The cultivated land lies-
.moftly in grafs. Thefe meadows, which are fown with timothy-grafa,
and white clover, are ufed as fuch for three or four years. They are
then broken up, fown with wheat, and ufed again as grafs land.
Mr. Warren, it feems, never fows oats among the clover. His flock
appeared to be in very good order ; the Iheep were tolerably good ; at
the fhearing time the wool weighs from four to five pounds a fleece 5
its medium price is four millings per pound. This planter, only three
years ago, paid nine hundred dollars for this eftate, and he now afks
two thoufand five hundred dollars for it.

There is no fchool kept in the neighbouring country, except in the
winter :months, when every fcholar pays a dollar per quarter.

The road from Tioga to Painted Pofl lies for the moft part along

the

tRAVBIS IN NORTH AMERICA,

the bank of the river Tioga, which is here about as broad as the mouth
6f the Oife. Its water is very clear. The flream is rapid, and the
country in general, through which it flows, is more open and pleafant
than that watered by the Sufquehannah.

We dined at New Town, which has not been built more than feven
rears, and is fituate on the banks of the Tioga. Before the building of
this town the Indians were in pofTeffion of the territory. This place
is, at prefent, the chief town of the county of Tioga. The diftrict of
JNew Town contains twenty thoufand acres of land, fold originally
for eighteen pence the acre, which now fells for five or fix dol-
lars, and in fome places from twenty-four to twenty- fix dollars.
The foil near the river is remarkably good. The plain in which
New Town {lands is large, and covered with meadows. In the other
parts of the twenty thoufand acres but very little wood has hitherto
been cut down, although we were afTured, that new fettlers are conti-
nually pouring in. The whole town confifls of about fifteen houfes,
moft of them being either inns or fhops.

In New Town we met with Colonel STARRET, and we accompa-
nied him to his own houfe, which is eight miles diflant from the town.
He is an Irimman by birth, but has been for many years a rcfident of
America ; he has a plantation of about thirteen hundred acres, only
one hundred of which have been hitherto rendered fit for cultivation.
Six hundred were cleared of wood by the Indians, who quitted this
part of the country only five years ago. He has lived here feven years,
during two of which he was entirely furrounded with Indians ; he af-
fured us, however, that he had no reafon to complain of them as neigh-
bours. The Indians burn the trees down to the flumps, when they
clear any ground ; but although the former are thereby deflroyed, the
flumps which remain mufl be rooted out, before the foil can be culti-
vated. The Colonel's eflate is apparently under good management.
He a/lured us, that his land is much fuperior to any in the neighbour-
hood ; that it yields forty bufhels of wheat, and as much Indian corn
*nnually ; and that his meadows produce two tuns, of hay per acre.

PY TIKE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFO"UCAULT LIANCOUHT. 103

He ploughs with oxen, which are of a very good fort. According to
his account, he ploughs deeper than we have obferved any where elfe
in America, making ufe of ploughs of various conftrucYions. He
keeps no fheep, on account of the wolves, which are faid to be very
numerous in this part of the country, it having been but lately cleared.
He has a beautiful breed of cows, and a fine looking young bull, pro-
duced from a cow, which he bought of 'Squire WALLIS, on the eaf-
tern arm of the Sufquehannah ; it is of the Englifh breed. The cow,
big with calf, coft him thirty-two dollars ; he rears his calves, and
does not fell them. The winter commonly lafls here fix months ;
during which time his cows and oxen are kept in the ftable. He de-
pofits his turnips, which he gathers in autumn, under ground, an4_
feeds his cattle with them, as well as with Indian corn and hay.

The price of wheat in this part of the country is one dollar, rye
five {hillings, and oats three {hillings per buihel. It is difficult to pro-
cure workmen hereabouts. Mr. Starret pays them after the rate of one
dollar per day, exclufive of victuals. He has two diftilleries, one upon
the eftate, and another in New Town; in both together he diftils
about two thoufand gallons of whiiky in a year. Mr. Starret affured
us, that a buihel of rye yields, in his diftilleries, only from two to tw&
gallons and a half of whiiky ; and that the fpirit is not good, if a lar-
ger quantity be diftilled from a bufhel. He fells his whiiky for one
dollar per gallon, while, according to the beft information we have
hitherto been able to collect, whiiky, three gallons of which are ob-
tained from a buihel, coils but five {hillings. From what we have
fince heard of this planter, it is probable, that his account is greatly ex-
aggerated, for the purpofe of obtaining a higher price for his whiiky.
The workmen, employed in his diiUlleries, receive one hundred and
ninety dollars per annum. The Colonel told us, that he proposed to fell
his eftate ; that he has refufed ten thoufand dollars for it, and that he
means to refide for the future in New Town ; he hinted, at the fame
time, that he is very rich. The fame evening we learned from 'Squire
MAC CORNICK, that this pretended Colonel is an irnpoftor ; that he

purchafed

-104 TRAVELS IN" NORTH AMERICA,

purchafed his eftate, which he told us he had bought from the ftate of
New York for eighteen pence per acre, of a private gentleman, at the
rate of two dollars per acre ; that he has not yet paid the purchafe mo-
ney ; and that he will probably be compelled to quit the eftate, unlefs
he finds means to difcharge the debt within the fhort time ftili allowed
him. This man, who to all appearance was fo free-hearted and kind,
is, at the bottom, a mere fwindler ; or, at leaft, he fuppofed we had a
defign to purchafe land, and wifhed to fell us fome at an exorbitant
price.

'Squire Mac Cornidk, with whom we took up our quarters for the
night, is a farmer, and keeps, at the fame time, an inn, but one of
that defcription, which affords neither hay for horfes, nor food for tra-
vellers, and fcarcely even a bed. The horfes were turned out on the
grafs. Our flipper confided of ru fly .bacon and coffee ; and we were
all four obliged to deep in two beds, which belonged to the family.
The fheets had already ferved them fome time, and it appears were to
ferve them ftill longer. Mr. de Blacons and myfelf took pofleflion of
that of the landlord. Though completely drefied, we could not lie
down without extreme reluctance ; our wearinefs, however, overcame
our double avcrfion to deep together, and between fuch fheets.

Supper-time was, as ufual, fpent in mutual enquiries. We learned,
that 'Squire Mac Cornick purchafed his eftate, four years ago, of MeiTrs.
PHiLipand GORUM for ten {hillings and fixpence per acre ; that he would
not fell it now for three dollars; that he pofTefTes about three thoufand
acres, one hundred and fifty of which are cultivated, exclufive of forty
others, which have been cleared by the Indians. His land yields about
thirty bufliels of wheat, fifty bufliels of Indian corn, and four hundred
bufhels of potatoes, per acre. He keeps about forty or fifty fheep, of
a middling fort, and but common wool. He appears duly fenfible of
the advantages to be derived from a good flock, and accordingly he
values them higher, than any American that has hitherto fallen within
my obfervation. He keeps twenty-three cows, which look tolerably
well, a bull of a very indifferent breed, and two yokes of very fine

oxen :

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCIIEFOUCAULT L1ANCOURT. 1O5

oxen ; he has refufed one hundred dollars for a yoke. The wolves
have already deftroyed Tome of his meep. To prevent a repetition of
fuch accidents, he now keeps feveral large bull-dogs, and caufes the
flock to be folded every night ; neither is he deterred, by the damage
he has fuftained, from increasing the number of his fheep. 'Squire
Mac-Cornick has lived here for fo mort a .time, that, though a very in-
telligent man, he could not ftate with any degree of accuracy the
ufual expences of houfe-keeping. His father was an Irifhman ; but he
himfelf was born in Pennfylvania, and has travelled in England, Ireland,
Scotland, France, and Switzerland. He held, at leaft according to
his own account, a commiffion in the Englifh fervice ; but he did not
name the regiment in which he ferved. He is an entertaining man,
who appears to underftand thoroughly what he is about; is very con-
verfable, civil, and modeft, and exprefies himfelf with judgment, and
often indeed with elegance. He feems well acquainted with the laws
and interefts of his country, and is the father of a numerous family,
from whofe affiftance in his labours he is now beginning to reap fome

advantage.

The price of every thing, except corn, is much higher here, than at
Afylum, Tioga, or even Newtown, chiefly from the expenfivenefs
of carriage. This was at leaft the reafon affigned by 'Squire Mac-Cor-
nick for the high amount of his bill, which feemed to bear no kind of
proportion to the compuliory frugality of our entertainment.

The ftate of New York impofes no taxes, to defray the expences of its
government; property is taxed only to pay the expences of the county
and diftrict. Neither the land, which is ftill covered with wood, nor
that which has lately been cleared, is required to pay any. It is only
the land, that has been cultivated for a confiderable time, that is liable to
taxation. The county taxes are raifed upon horfes, oxen, in mort, upon
the whole live ftock of the farm. All thefe different fpecies of pro-
perty are valued by overfeers. and taxed by afTeffors, in proportion to
the pecuniary demands of the county. Thefe taxes, of which I (hall
an opportunity hereafter to give a more particular account, are all

P laid

1O6 TRAVELS IN NOnTH AMERICA,

laid very low. 'Squire Mac-Cornick paid for the whole of his taxes
laft year only four dollars and a half.

The laws of the ftate of New York have eftablifhed poor-rates for'
fuch diftricts as contain paupers ; but there are very few of that defcrip-
tion to be found in this new country. The habitation of 'Squire Mac-
Cornick appertains to the county of Ontario ; and here this tax is raifed,.
but not in the county of Tioga. The expence of building prifons^
fefiions-houfes, &c. is defrayed by the fubfcription of individuals. The
fchools lie at confiderable diftances from one another, and are kept only
in winter ; their charge is one dollar a quarter for each fcholar. Read-
ing and writing are taught in the fchools, but in thefe thinly inhabited
forefts the inftru&ors are, in general, ignorant, and extremely indolent.
No church has yet been built here ; people of all religious perfua-
fions live in this country, and all feem to be little felicitous about reli-
gious matters, whatever be the particular fec~l to which they belong.

On our way from Newtown, efpecially between ,Starret's and Mac-
Cornick's habitations, the foil is good ; and, where it is not yet cleared,
is covered with oaks and fine pines. A great part however has been
cleared by the Indians, and produces excellent grafs.

From Mac-Cornick*s houfe to Painted Poft the foil continues the
fame ; but the dwellings are fo thinly fcattered, that you may travel
twelve miles through the foreft, without finding a fingle houfe. The
country, being flat, is expofed to inundation, whenever the creeks and
the river Tioga overflow. In the month of December, laft year (1794),
the water rofe to an unprecedented height, namely, from fifteen tc*
nineteen feet above the ufual level. Captain STARBER, who keeps an
inn at Painted Poft, reported this circumftance to me as an unqueftion-
able fat. He could eafily meafure the riling of the water in his well.
This extraordinary inundation fwept away a great number offences.

Thurfday, the 4th of June.

We breakfafted at Painted Poft, fix miles from the place at which we
had pa(Ted the night. It is the principal town of the diftricl;, and de-
rives

*Y THE DUKfi T>E LA KOCHEPftTJCAULT LIAttCOURT. 107

rives its name from a poft, hewn and painted by the Indians, the flump
of which is yet left {landing. The firfl inhabitants fettled here only
four years ago. The whole town at prefent coniifls of ten or twelve
fmall houfes. The land here has alfo been parcelled out and fold by
the {late of New York. The foil is good, efpecially near the town,
where from fifteen to eighteen dollars are the common price for an acre.
The woods are full of rofe-bufhes, apple and plumb trees, and bil-
berries. There are however but few fu gar- maple trees. The price of
this fugar at the beginning of lad fpring was one {hilling per pound.
Wheat fells for feven {hillings a bufhel ; Indian corn for four ; oats,
three ; rye for eleven {hillings and fix-pence ; and hay for three
pounds a tun ; although very little of this laft article is fold, and
that only in the depth of winter. A cow cofts from eighteen to
twenty-five dollars; a yoke of oxen feventy- five dollars; {heep from
fixteen to twenty (hillings, and wool four {hillings a pound. La-
bourers' wages are from four to fix {hillings a day, and ten dollars
a month without victuals. Maid fervants earn about fix {hillings
a week. The quantity of uncultivated land is very confiderable in
this part of the country, though numbers of emigrants, as we were
told, are conflantly coming from all parts to fettle here. On our jour-
ney from Painted Poft to Bath we met feveral families, who had quitted
their former habitations in queft of new ones. Thefe tranfmigrations
are generally removals from an old into a new country. The attach-
ment to local property is yet but little known among the Americans.
The foil, on which they were born, nay that which they have them-
lelves rendered fit for cultivation, is valued by them little more than
any other. Every where they live in a fimple and frugal manner ; their
friendly connections alfo are moftly confined to their own families, which
move about with them. Every where they can procure whifky and
fait pork. They even experience a real pleafure in clearing the ground
and rendering it fit for cultivation, independently of the profits they
make when they leave their eflates, either altogether in a {late of cul-
tivation, or at leaft partly fo, to purchafe another, yet covered with
wood, and fome hundred miles farther inland. Among the many emi-

P 2

108 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

grants we met this day, there were a great number of perfons who
came from Niagara, fituate in the Englifli dominions, and were tra-
velling to South Carolina. They were originally Pennfylvanians, from
the neighbourhood of Pittfburg, who, allured by the promife of Go-
vernor SIMCOE, that they fhould have lands gratis, belonging to the
King of England, and aifo be affifled for fome time in their labours,
quitted their former places of refidence, but did not find their new fitua-
tion fo comfortable as they had been led to expecT:.* 1 Being alfo viiited
by the fever, they forfook their fettlements, apparently much exafpe-
rated at the expence and labour they had ufelefsly beftowed on them.

The road from Painted Poft to Bath, leads, like that we have patted,
, through the midft of forefts, up and down hill, particularly after pa/T-
ing the creek of Connefteon, which flows into the river Tioga, near
Painted Poft. This road, as it is called, which was made by Captain
WILLIAMSON, with a defign to open a communication between his
eftate and the eaftern arm of the Sufquehannah, is in fa ft nothing but -
a ftraight line cut through the wood. The felled trees are, indeed, for
the moft part removed, but the roots remain, and make the road very
bad, miry, and deep; fo that in the middle of June, the drieft feafoti
of the year, a horfe cannot travel it without difficulty. At the dif-
tance of a mile and a half from Bath is a fmall lake about two miles in
circumference. The lake itfelf lies within the foreft, but elofe behind
it are the marfhes, which reach as far as Bath, the chief place of the
fettlement of Captain Williamfon (of whom I fhall have occafion pre-
fently to fpeak) and where he generally reiides. The Captain was abi-
fent in Canandaqua, where he preiided as a judge at the feffions, but
was expefted to return hither in two days time. To make an acquain-
tance with this gentleman, was an important objcft to us ; we accord-
ingly arranged our plan in fuch a manner, as to prevent his efcaping
us. We, therefore, refolved to make an excursion to the fmall lakes*
and to return to Bath in three days, when we fliould be fure to find the
Captain at home.

* By the treaty of 1T94 Niagara was to be ceded to the flate of New York, which it-
was in H96. Hence, probably, we may account for the difappointment of the fettlers,
Tranjlator.

Friday,

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 10Q

Friday, the $th of "June.

We fet out without any baggage, as Mr. Guillemard hit upon the
benevolent idea of leaving his fervant at Bath, that he might lend his
horfe to Mr. Dupetitthonars. Nothing remarkable occurred during
the whole day's journey of thirty-five miles, which we made through
continued woods. AH this way we have met with but fix habitations,
which fland within the foreft. From Boys' inn to Friendfmill, that
is to fay, in a fpace of eighteen miles, there is not a fingle houfe to
be feen. About eight miles from Bath is Crooked Lake, on which
frauds Boys' inn, as it is called, but where we could procure neither
eggs, butter, hay, nor oats. Crooked" Lake takes its name, as might be
fuppofed, from its form ; it flows from north to fouth with a gentle
current, in the midft of mountains, which are not very high ; but
which, in point of external form, bear a ftriking refemblance to each
other; this uniform appearance is encreafed by the wood, with which
they are covered. I never faw a country abounding more in water,
than that through which- we pafled from Boys' inn to Friendfmill.
Moft of the brooks, on account of the feafon, contained, comparatively,
but little water; though we continually met with tracks of torrents,
which, to judge from the ground they had warned away, and the large
ftones and trees they had fwept along, muft have been very violent
and rapid. The road, which runs by the river fide, is nothing but a
foot-path, which it is frequently difficult to diftinguifh. It pafTes be-
tween rocks, felled trees, and bufhes, and is one of the mofl unpleafant
to traverfe that can be conceived. The woods, however, are extremely
beautiful, and" (hew that the foil is, perhaps, the richefr. we have yet
feen.

The mountains flope toward the lake, and terminate in inconfiderable
hills. Their (hape announced to us, that we were approaching thofe
vaft favannahs, which divide the enormous mafs of water, that irrigates
America. The plain expands, and the country on a fudden afTumeg a
different afpeft, although its deceptions are dill the fame. All the

land*,

HO TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

land, which we have hitherto traverfed, belongs to captain Williamfon,
who is very generally beloved and efteemed.

At length, about night-fall, we arrived at Friendfmill, after a very
tedious journey, which, on account of the fondnefs orune of our com-
panions for his bed, we did not begin till late in the day, and which
was afterwards delayed by the fall of another ; this laft accident, how-
ever, was not attended with any difaftrous confequence. The inn,
which contained but two rooms, we found already full ; fome perfons,
who intended to buy land near the Great Sodus, and Captain Williamfon's
agent, who was to fell it to them, had taken poffeffion of it a little be-
fore our arrival. After an American fupper, confifting of coffee and
boiled ham, we all lay down to reft in the fame room. There were
only two beds for ten perfons ; in confequence, thefe two beds were oc-
cupied by four of us, and the others lay down in their clothes upon
ftraw, which, though I enjoyed here the privilege of maring in one of
the beds, appears to me the bed method of taking repofe, when you
cannot have a bed to yourfelf.

Saturday, the C/// of June.

Friendfmill is a place, confifting of feveral houfes, which takes its
name from its being fettled or founded by the Friends or Quakers. It
lies in the center of the diftricl:, which is called the Friends fettlement.
^ } One JEMIMA WILKINSON, a Quaker, and a native of Rhode
If land, manifefted fo fervent a zeal in her religion, that at the age of
twenty me was admitted to all the meetings of the fociety, which were
held weekly, monthly, and quarterly, for fettling the general concerns
and watching over the conduct of the brethren. She at length fan-
cied, that ihe was called to acT: fome great and extraordinary part, and in
this perfuafion formed the project of becoming the leader of a feel. In
the courfe of a long and dangerous illnefs, fhe was fuddenly feized, or
gave it out that fhe was feized with a lethargy, fo that to her friends fhe
appeared as really dead. She continued, feveral hours, in this fituation ;
and preparations were actually making for her interment, when flic fud-
denly

BY THE DUKE DE LA UOCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOUHT. Ill

demy ftarted up, called for her cloaths, declaring " that fhe had rifcn
from the dead, and that flic had cafl off all her material fubftance, and
retained only the fpiritual." She went, accordingly, to the next meet-
ing, as if with the authority of fome celeflial being, fpoke there as one
infpired, and gained fome followers. She, ere long, exprefTed her dif-
pleafure at fome religious obfervances of the Quakers ; and was, on this
account, reprimanded by the meeting ; which appears to have been pre-
cifely the thing fhe wiflied for and expected. In the opinion of others,
fhe met with this reproof, becaufe at the beginning of the revolutionary
war, me had been much attached to the Tories, and favoured the Eng-
lifh party by declaiming againft the war, according to the principles of
the doclrine fhe profefled. She continued preaching and proceeding in
this manner, till me was excluded from the meetings, which indeed all
along appeared to be her particular wifh. Being now a perfecuted
perfon, at leaft by her own account, fhe began to gain fome partizans.
She preached publicly on the neceffity of the abolition of all meetings
convened to cenfure, of a reform of the church-eftablifhment, of
granting to the Friends univerfal liberty to preach, what they pleafed,
without firft afking leave to do fo, &c. She foon made fome pro-
felytes, and at the fame time drew on herfelf the difpleafure of all,
who adhered to the old forms of the religion of the Quakers. She
experienced, therefore, a very unfavourable reception for herfelf and
her doctrines, both in Philadelphia and New York. Wherever me
came, every Quaker turned away from her with abhorrence, as the
enemy of his religion ; and all other perfbns deemed her a fool or an
enthufiaft. This difpofition of the public fhe again called a perfecu-
tion, it being favourable to her ultimate views. The number of her
followers was now daily increafing ; and as fhe confidently trufted it
would become ftill more confiderable, fhe thought they might perhaps
be willing to follow her. Accordingly fhe propofed to a number of
them, to flee from thefe regions of intolerance, and to fettle in a place
where they might worfhip God undifturbed, and free from that bitter

fpirit

112 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

fpirit of persecution, which men had introduced in oppofition to the
divine will.

Soon after the country about Lake Seneca and Crooked Lake was
fixed upon as the place of their fettiement. The company of New
York, which had purchafed this land from the Indians, entered into a
treaty for the fale of it with thefe reformed Quakers. They were pro-
mifed three tracls of land, containing each fix thoufand fquare acres,
which were to form three diftricts, and to which Jemima inflantly gave
the name of Jerufalem. Thirty families removed hither with her; but
fhe had confidently expecled three or four hundred more, of whom,
however, not above twenty at lafl arrived. This fociety foon fpread
over the three diflricls, which it was to occupy ; but was not fufficiently
numerous to.replenim the fourth part of each. The enchantment, how-
ever, had already been broken by Jemima's abfence, and with it had alfo
yanifhed their zeal for peopling this new land of promife.

We faw Jemima, and attended her meeting, which is held in her
own houfe. We found there about thirty perfons, men, women, and
children. Jemima flood at the door of her bed-chamber on a carpet,
with an arm-chair behind her. She had on a white morning gown,
and waiflcoat, fuch as men wear, and a petticoat of the fame colour.
Her black hair was cut fhort, carefully combed, and divided behind into
three ringlets ; me wore a flock, and a white filk cravat, which was
tied about her neck with affeded negligence. In point of delivery, me
preached with more eafe, than any other Quaker, I have yet heard; but
the fubje<5l matter of her difcourfe was an eternal repetition of the fame
topics, death, fin, and repentance. She is faid to be about forty years
of age, but fhe did not appear to be more than thirty. She is of middle
flature, well made, of a florid countenance, and has fine teeth, and
beautiful eyes. Her action is fludied ; fhe aims at fimplicity, but there
is fomewhat of pedantic in her manner. In her chamber we found her
friend, RACHEL MILLER, a young woman of about twenty-eight or
thirty years of age, her follower and admirer, who is entirely devoted
to her. All the land which Jemima poffefTes is purchafed in the

name

BY THE DUKE DE LA KOCHEFOUCAULT LIAN'COU.IT. 113

name df Rachel Miller, an advantage which flic owes to her influence
over her adherents, and to her dexterity in captivating their affec-
tions.

Jemima, or the Friend (as flic is called by way of eminence) incul-
cates, as her leading tenet, poverty, and refignation of all earthly poffef-
fions. If you talk to her of her houfe, fhe always calls it " the houfe,
which I inhabit." This houfe, however, though built only of the
trunks of trees, is extremely pretty and commodious. Her room is ex-
quifitely neat ; and refembles more the boudoir of a fine lady, than the
cell of a nun. It contains a looking-glafs, a clock, an arm-chair, a
good bed, a warming-pan, and a filver faucer. Her garden is kept in
good order ; her fpring-houfe * is full of milk, cheefe, butter, butcher V
meat and game. Her hypocrify may be traced in all her difcourfes,
aclions, and conduct, and even in the very mariner in which fhe ma-
nages her countenance. She feldom fpeaks, without quoting the Bible, or
introducing a ferious fentence about death, and the neceffity of making
our peace with God. Whatever does not belong to her own feel: is with
her an object of diftafte and ftedfaft averfion. She fows dhTention in
families, to deprive the lawful heir of his right of inheritance, in order
to appropriate it to herfelf ; and all this fhe does under the name and
by the agency of her companion, who receives all the prefents brought
by the faithful, and preferves them for her reverend friend, who, being
wholly abforbed in her communion with Chriil:, whofe prophetefs fhe is,
would abfolutely forget the fiipply of her bodily wants, if me were not
well taken care of. The number of her votaries has, of late, much de-
creafed. Many of the families, who followed her to Jerufalem, are no
longer the dupes of her felf-interefled policy. Some ftill keep up the
outward appearance of attachment to her ; while others have openly dif-
claimed their connexion with Jemima. Such however as ftill continue her
adherents, appear to be entirely devoted to her. With thefe me paffes for

* Thefe are fmall offices or detached houfes in America, in which butter, milk, and
frefh meat are generally kept. They are called fpring-ko:tfcs> becaufe a ftream of frelh
water is always running through them.

Q a pro-

1 M TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA.

-a prophetefs, an indefcribable being; me is not Jemima Wilkinlbn-, but
a fpirit of a peculiar name, which remains a profound fecret to all, who
are not true believers ; ihe is the Friend, the All-friend. Six or leven
girls of different ages, but all young 'and handfome, wait upon her, with
furprifmg emulation, to enjoy the peculiar fatisfaction of being per-
mitted to approach this celeftial being. Her fields, and her garden, are
ploughed and dug by the Friends, who neglect their own bufinefs, to
take care of her's ; and the All-friend is fo condefcending, as not to refufc
their fervices ; fhe comforts them with a kind word now and then,
makes enquiries after and provides for their health and welfare, and has
the art of effectually captivating their affections, the more perhaps be-
caufe Ihe knows how to keep her votaries at a refpeclful diftance.

When the fervice was over, Jemima invited us to dinner. The hope
of watching her more narrowly induced us to accept the invitation ; but
we did not then know, that it forms a part of the character fhe a els,
never to eat with any one, She ibon left us ; and locking herfelf up
with her female friend, fat down, without other company, to an excel-
lent dinner ; we did not get ours, till after me had dined. When our
dinner was over, and alfo another, which was ferved up after ours, the
fancluary opened again. And now Jemima appeared once more at the
door of her room, and converted with us, feated in an arm-chair. When,
itrangers are with her, ihe never comes over the thremold of her bed-
room ; and when by herfelf, fhe is conftantly engaged in deliberation
how to improve the demefne of her friend. The houfe was, this day,
very full. Our company confifted of exactly ten perfons ; after us dined
another company of the fame number ; and as many dined in the kit-
chen. Our plates, as well as the table-linen, were perfectly clean and
neat ; our repaft, although frugal, w T as yet better in quality than any, of
which we had partaken, fmce our departure from Philadelphia; it confifted
of good freih meat, w T ith pudding, an excellent fallad, and a beverage
of a peculiar yet charming flavour, with which we were plentifully fup-
plied out of Jemima's apartment, where it was prepared. The devout
gueils obferved, all this while, a profound filence ; they cither cafl down

their

- BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCREFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 115

their eyes, or lifted them up to heaven with a rapturous figh ; to nic
they appeared, not unlike a party of the faithful, in the primitive ages,
dining in a church.

. The All-friend had by this time exchanged her former drefs for that of
a fine Indian lady, which, however, was cut out in the fame fafhion a
the former. Her hair and eye-broWs had again been combed. She did
not utter a fyllable refpecling our dinner ; nor did me offer to make any
apology for her abfence. Coriflantly engaged in perfbnating the part fhe
has aflumed, fhe defcanted in a fan&imonious, myftic tone, on death,
and on the happincfs of having been an ufeful inftrument to others in the
way of their falvation. She afterwards gave us a rhapfody of prophecies
to read, afcribed to one Dr. LOVE, who was beheaded in CROM-
WELL'S time ; wherein me clearly difcerned, according to her accounts,
the French Revolution, the decline and downfall of Popery, and the im-
pending end of the world. Finding, however, that this converfation was
but ill adapted to engage our attention, fhe cut ihort her harangue at
once. We had indeed already feen more than enough, to eftimate the
character of this bad actrefs, whofe pretended fanclity only infpired us
with contempt and difgufl, and who is altogether incapable of impofing
upon any perfon of common understanding, unlefs thofe of the mod
fimple minds, or downright enthufiafls. Her fpeeches are fo ftrongly
contradicted by the tenor of her actions ; her w r holc conduct, her ex-
pence, compared with that of other families, within a circumference of
fifty miles, her way of living, and her drefs, form fuch a ftriking con-
traft with her harangues on the fubjecl: of contemning earthly enjoy-
ments , and the extreme affiduity, with which fhe is continually endea-
vouring to induce children, over whom fhe has any influence, to leave
their parents, and form a part of her community ; all thofe particulars
fo ftrongly militate againft the doctrine of peace and univerfal love,
which fhe is mcefTantly preaching, that we were actually {buck with
abhorrence of her duplicity and hypocrify, as foon as the rft emotions
of our curiofity fubfidcd,

Q 2 Her

Il6 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

Her fraudulent conduct, indeed, has been difcovered by fo many perfons,
and fo much has been faid againft it, that it is difficult to account for her
having had any adherents at all, even for a fhort time. And yet fhe will
probably retain a fufficient number, to encreafe ftill further her fortune,
which is already confiderable for the country in which fhe refides, and
fully adequate to the only end which fhe now feems anxious to atttain ;
namely, to live independent, in a decent, plentiful, and even elegant
manner. There are fo many weak-minded religionifts, and Jemima is
fo particularly careful to fekdl her difciples among perfons who are either
very old or very young, that her impofture, however grofs and palpable
to the difcerning, may yet be carried on for fome time with fuccefj,
fufficient to anfwer her ultimate purpofe. If her credit mould fink too
low, ihe would find herfelf conftrained to tranfplant her holinefs to
fbme other region ; and, in fact, me had, laft year, harboured the de-
fign of removing her family and eftablifhment, and of fettling in Carl-
ton Ifland, on the Lake of Ontario, where Ihe would enjoy the fatisfac-
tion of living under the Englifh Government, which, by her account,
has proffered her a grant of land.

If we may believe common rumous, Ihe difluades the young women
generally from marrying. In regard to thofe about her, this advice
originates from motives of perfbnal intercft. I have little doubt, but
that the pious devotion of thefe girls is fervent enough, to fubmit to all
the caprices of the All-friend (which in their belief are infpi rations).
Another report is alfo handed about, that me has met with a male be-
ing, whom fhe fancies fufficiently purified, to unite occafionally with
her own exalted fociety and converfe. On this head a ftory prevails,
which, though fome what ludicrous, may yet properly find a place in a
work of the graved complexion, efpecially as it affords an additional
proof of the endlefs muliplicity of pious deceptions.

Among other votaries of Jemima was one 'Squire PARKER, who fettled
in her neighbourhood, and ftill refides near Friendfmill. Though a jolly
fellow, ever gay and jocund, he efpoufed very zealoufly the caufe and
mtereft of the prophetefs. This Parker, who was conftaritly in Jemi-
ma's

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFO'JCAULT LIANCOURT. 117

ma's retinue, gave himfelf out to be the Prophet Elijah, and very rightly
conceived, that, by ailuming a peculiar drefs, he fhould give a more im-
poung character to his impoflures. He wore accordingly a white gown,
with large ileeves, and a girdle ; in fhort, whatever he fancied might
belong to the coftume of the ancient prophets. This was the being,
who was honoured with the high privilege of living with the All-friend
on terms of the greateft intimacy. One evening the 'Squire, during a
colloquy, inftituted by the divine and holy friend for the edification of
her flock, ftole into the celeftial bed, which happened to be already
occupied by a young girl of only fourteen. This girl, who had fre-
quently heard the All-friend fay, that the Meffiah fometimes appeared
to her in her bed under different forms, and that flie then converfed
with him, fancied herfelf chofen by heaven to enjoy the felicity of being
a witnefs of one of thefe apparitions, and retired pioufly to the edge of
the bed, where with awful refpecl: and in profound {Hence me liftened to
the repeated raptures, with which the pretended Meffiah blefled the All-
friend. The next morning the poor girl could not refrain from indulg-
ing her vanity by acquainting all her friends, that iir the bed of her
friend me had feen Chrift, but who greatly refembled, me faid, the Pro-
phet Elijah. Her curious and enraptured friends enquired into all the
particulars of this apparition, of which me gave the moft fatisfa<lory
and circumftantial account in her power. It will hardly be doubted,
that this religious trick not a little ftrengthened the credulity of the
female friends in the All-friend, and infpired Jemima w r ith aflurance,
frequently to- enjoy fimilar apparitions*

A juftice of the peace in the country, fpeaking of Jemima, aflured us
alfo, that one of the girls, who lived with her, has judicially depofed,
that, one day, me heard the cry of a new-born infant, which Jemima's
negro-woman, as is conjectured, was in the acl: of fmothering between
two mattrefles. That this depofition exifts is undeniable ; but the fact
itfelf is fo atrocious, that it would feem incredible with refpe6t to any
other perfon except a prophetefs. Whether this child were the refult of
a flip of one of the maids of honour, or the fruit of her own intercourfe

with

11$ TRAVELS IN NOK.TH AMERICA,

with the apparitions, is not known. If, from the little regard that h a*
t>een paid to this ftory, its veracity mould appear doubtful, let it
be obferved, that in this new country juftice is but feldom duly
adminiftered ; that, often, it is difficult to obtain it at all ; and that no
one deems himfelf interefted in fubftantiating the truth of the depofi-
tion, which, after all, it would be no eafy matter to do. Dervifes,
pontiffs, and priefts of mod religious perfuafions throughout the world,
fuch at leaft as would render religion fubfervient to worldly purpofes,
are either impoilors or enthufiafts. Alas ! alas ! much the greater num-
ber, I fear, belong with Jemima to the former clafs !

The firfl fettlers, who thoughtlefsly followed their divinity to this
place, not being able to purchafe the lands, which compofed the three dif-
tricls, the remainder has been reftored to the company, who have again
difpofed of it, and are {till felling it to all, who are defirous of becoming
fettlers. Accordingly, numbers of Methodills; Anabaptifls, and mem-
bers of the Church of England, are now to be feen here ; yet the colony,
retains its original name of The Friends' Settlement. Two meetings have
been built here for the Quakers ; one for the Methodifls, and one for
the Anabaptrfts. The foil in thefe parts appears to be of prime quality.
The land, occupied by families of Quakers, amounts to about five hun-
dred acres, more or lefs cleared, which produce excellent crops.

The eftate, which we viewed with moft attention, is that of BENE-
DICT ROBINSON, fituate between Lake Seneca and Friendfmill. This
Robinfon is one of the Quakers, who arrived here in the retinue of the
All-friend, being then one of her moft zealous difciples. He now fpeaks
en this fubjed: with evident embarraiTment, in terms which ilill evince
liis attachment, yet without enthullafm, and without extolling her or
placing implicit confidence in her divine mifficn and oracular eifuiions,
In ihort, he exprefles himfelf in a manner, which fufliciently indicates,
that he has been impofed upon by her in a higher degree, than he is
willing to acknowledge. Knowing that he- flill prokiTed an attachment
to her, and perceiving the embarraiTment with which he delivered him-
felf on this fubjecl, we thought proper to discontinue our enquiries,

This

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCKEFOUCAULT LlANCOUttT. HO

This Benedict Robinfbn is a fciifible, mild, and well behaved man ; he
refides on an eftatc of five hundred acres, about one hundred and fifty of
which are cleared. Eighty have been laid out as meadows, and on thefe
are fown. timothy- grafs, and white clover. He purchafed his demefne
from the New York company for five iliillings an acre, and it is now
worth, at leaft, three or four dollars. His prefent ftock amounts to
about thirty-five head of cattle ; but he intends to rear more, and to
make this the chief branch of his farming bufmefs, on a plan which ap-
pears w r ell adapted to the nature of the ground. Mr. Robinfon, who has
refided here only three years, has not yet been able to acquire any impor-
tant information on the different departments of agriculture, and on the
productions beft adapted to the foil ; and befides he appears to labour
under prejudices, which he entertains in common w r ith the great ma-
jority of American farmers. He does not plough his land, but contents
himfelf with breaking it up with a harrow of iron teeth, which tears up
the ground about four inches deep. After this fimple operation, he fows
his wheat, yet never until he has reaped two crops of potatoes or oats
from the land, on which the wheat is fbwn. The foil is fb ftrong, that,
if rye were ibwn immediately after clearing the ground, the ears would
run up fo high, and grow fo heavy, that they would fall on one fide, and
be damaged by rotting. This facl, as he affbred us, is evident from the
general experience of the other farmers of this diftrift. Wheat, ibwn
after the firft harrowing, produces from twenty to twenty-five bufhels,
<md Indian corn about fixty bufhels. Wheat is fow r n for feveral years
fucceffively, after harrowing, without the leaft affiftance from the plough,
and the crops continue conftantly the fame. Several farmers, who have
fown wheat in this manner for thefe lair, fix years ^ have ftill obtained good
crops. Rye yields alfo from twenty to twenty-five, bufhels, and oats thirty-
five. But I muft once more obferve, that neither wheat nor rye is ever
fow^n for the firft crop. Mr. Robinfon told us, that, in compliance with
the wilh of a friend, he ploughed half an acre, on which he fowed AY heat,
but that the other half, which was not ploughed, turned out more pro-
dudiye than the former. This affcrtion, however, is fo contradictory to

all

120 TRAVELS IN N"ORTH

all theory, as well as to the univerfal experience of agricultures, who ufe
the plough, that it feemed to us very problematical, and founded on
prejudice, rather than on mature reflection and obfervation. Mr. Robin-
fon is alfo of opinion, that barked trees, which are left {landing on the
cleared land, far from leiTening the produce, rather increafe it, by {hading
the land, and thus preventing the foil from being too rapidly penetrated
by the rays of the fun; the immediate contact of which having never
experienced before, it mould be accuflomed to it by degrees. But
this opinion is rather the offspring of prejudice than found reafon ; and,
according to a general practice obfervable in all countries and climates,
feems rather intended to reconcile us to the impoffibility of proceeding
otherwife, than to eflablifh itfelf as a new agricultural truth. It can-
not be denied, that the number of the {heaves, and compa&nefs of
the ears, which we meet with on lands, where two hundred barked trees
have been left {landing on an acre, is in itfelf really furprifmg. But then
thefe two hundred trees, reckoning only eighteen fquare inches for each
tree, muft engrofs a confiderable fpacc, which might produce a propor-
tionate quantity of grain.

Jn this part of Geneflee the winter lafts from four to five months.
The cattle are fed with hay and flraw, but remain always in the open
air. Mr. Robinfon fed his cattle at firft in the flail ; but the experience
of the lafl two years has convinced him, that they thrive better in th&
open air, where they alfo connime lefs fodder : his cattle are, therefore,
now fed in the farm-yard. The produce of the eftate confifls in grain,
cheefe, and butter. The hay is moflly conmmed on the farm. The
average produce is one tun and a half per acre, befide the grafs, which is
confumed by the cattle as it .grows. As the extent of his meadows mall
be gradually enlarged, he propofes to increafe his flock, which he intends
to make a principal article of his trade. The produce of his eftate is tranf-
ported on the lakes, either to Canandaqua, Geneva, or Bath. Laft year
he fold one thoufand pounds weight of cheefe, at the rate of a {hilling
a pound. He keeps about forty meep, and hopes to increafe his flock,
without being apprehenfive of the wolves, which, though very numerous

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCIIEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 121

in the furrounding forefts, do but little harm. His wool is fine, and fells
for four (killings a pound, without regard to its quality ; for in this coun-
try, which is yet too young to poilefs manufactories, eveiy farmer ma-
nufactures, in his own family, all the cloth he wants : the fale of wool is
therefore very inconfiderable ; a circumftance, which tends not a little to
confirm the farmers in their prejudices againft rearing fheep. Wheat fells
here from fix to feven millings, Indian corn four, and rye five millings
per bufhel ; the price of flour is two dollars and a half per hundred
weight ; fait beef ten pence per pound, and frefh beef from four pence to
five pence. Hemp fells at one penny a pound ; a pair of tolerably good
oxen will fetch from fixty to feventy dollars, and a cow from twenty-five
to thirty. Servants earn from five to fix millings wages a week. A few
negroes excepted, maid-fervants do all the work about the farm as well as
the houfe. Day labourers, as in moft other parts of America, are not eafily
procured; their pay is four millings a day, or from nine to ten dollars a
month.

In the whole adjoining diftrict there is but one fchool, and that is kept
by the Quakers, who, however, admit all children without distinction,
on their paying four Ihillings per quarter. None of the medical faculty
have yet fettled here. The fettlement, however, upon the whole, is
advancing to profperity with rapid ilrides. It is furrounded by the im-
menle tract of land, which belongs to Captain Williamfon, and confe-
quently enjoys all the advantages and improvements, which his extenfive
eftablifhment commands. Mr. Robinfon's eftate, which he purchased
from the company in New York, appears to be actually within the pre-
cincts of Captain Williamfon' s demefne ; as the latter, who bought his
lands from the ftate of MafTachufetts, learned from the report of his fur-
veyors, that the boundaries of New York lay farther out. Accordingly
thefe boundaries were marked out, and a line drawn, forming a triangle
with the old line, the point of which touches the line of Pennsylvania,
below the river Tioga, while the bate, which ftretches along the Lake of
Ontario, is from three to four miles in breadth ; this has enlarged Cap-
tain Williamfon's demefne, which he holds from the ftate of Maflachu-

R fetts,

122 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

fetts, one hundred and twenty thoufand acres. Robinfon's eftate lies
within this new line. Under ibme apprehenfion for the confequences,
with which this change of property might be attended, he has not, atpre-
fent, made all the improvements, which he had in view. He is allured,
however, that he will be well ufed, and that the ftate of New York,
equally weighing the juflice of Captain Williamfon's claim, and the le-
gality of pofleffion of the lands fince parcelled out to the fettlers, will
indemnify the former by grants of an equal quantity of uncleared ground,
and thus prevent the latter from being molefted in the quiet poffeffion of
the lands, which they hold from the company in New York. Robinfon
is now building a good wooden houfe, and he propofes to clear a great
additional number of acres.

The expence of felling and barking the trees, and inclofing the ground,
amounts, at prefent, to fix dollars per acre. Two years ago it did not
exceed four. The owner of the land provides the oxen neceflary for re-
moving the largeft trunks.

I muft not forget, however, to obferve, that according to an agree-
ment, concluded many years ago, between the ftates of New York and
MaiTachufetts, all the lands fold by and belonging to the latter, are to be
fubjecled to the territorial fupremacy of New York.

The lands hereabouts are frequently vifited, as they were this year,
by a fpecies of locufts, w r hich fix chiefly on the trees, and deftroy the
leaves. They are fo extremely numerous, that every attempt to deilroy
or remove them muft apparently prove fruitlefs. Flies likewdfe are very
troublefome here, being found in fuch prodigious fvvarms, efpecially about
noon, that the farmers are obliged to keep large fires burning near their
houfes, where the cattle find fhelter from thefe tormenting infects, until
the cool of the evening, when the latter difappear, and retire into the
woods.

Lake Seneca is about two miles and a half diftant from Mr. Ro-
binfon's eftate. By the Indians it was called Canada Gaga. Its pre-
fent name is doubtlefs derived from the circumftance of its difcharging
itfelf into the river Seneca, which, after being joined by fix or feven

fmaller

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 123

{"mailer lakes, at length empties itfelf into the immenfe lake of Ontario.
It is remarkable, that all the other waters, even up to this degree of lati-
tude, flow in a foutherly direction. Lake Seneca is about forty miles in
length, by three, four, and five miles in breadth. It is faid to abound in
fifh of a very fine flavour, as do all the other American lakes, and yet fifh
is as fcarce here as in any other part. The inhabitants of the banks are
lb few, and have fo much other bufmefs upon their hands, that they can
feldom or ever find time to go a fifhing. To render this branch of in-
duftry flourilhing, the population and wealth of a country muft have
reached to a certain height, from which America, in its prefent Hate,
feems far removed. In the towns every inhabitant is engaged in bufi-
nefs, either as a merchant or a tradefman ; and in the country every
planter and farmer either keeps an inn or a ftore. All other occupations
are, and will yet, for fome time, be out of the queilion.

The point, where we arrived at the banks of Lake Seneca, con-
tains a fettlement of about three or four houfes, among which that of
Mr. NORRIS is the mofl confpicuous ; it is a fmall, neat log-houfe, hand-
ibme in its appearance, and connected with another, in which he keeps
a ftore. It is no eafy matter to conceive why this perfon, who is pof-
fefled of an immenfe quantity of land on the oppofite bank of the lake,
ihould erect thefe two houfes here, on a fpot which does not belong to
him, but which, according to a verbal promife of the company at New
York, which claimed the property of the ground, was to be fold to him,
\f he chofe to have it, a contract which the company is now unable to
fulfil ; as by the late afcertainment of the boundaries, this fpot is included
within the demefne of Captain Williamfon, of whom, for want of a
written agreement, he has no right to demand an indemnification. Yet
Captain Williamfon will himfelf, no doubt* perform that promife, if it
lhall appear to have been made actually and lionajide. Independently of
the benevolent fentiments, which- are generally afcribed to this gentle-
man, he pofleiTes fufficient difcernment to perceive, that his intereft is
greatly promoted by a jufb conduct and civil demeanor,

A pot and pearl-am work forms no inconfiderable part of this fmall

R 2 fettlement.

1'2<4 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

fettlement. The navigation on the lake not only facilitates the home
conveyance of the allies, which are made on both banks of the lake,
whenever the ground is cleared, but alfo the exportation of thofe articles
to Geneva or Catherine's Town ; which places are fituate at the two ex-
tremities of the lake. By means of his {lore, Mr. Norris can procure his
ames at a very reafonable rate, as he pays for them in commodities, which
he receives at New York, and the carriage for which amounts to only
three dollars per cent.

Our two travelling companions, who had laft year paffed over tiiis part
of our journey, introduced us on the fame day to Mr. POTTER, a rich
land-owner, who pofTerTes about twenty-five thoufand acres, and resides
eight miles from Friendfmill. About one hundred and fifty acres of his
eftate are already reduced under tillage ; and he gave us nearly the fame
information, relative to the ftate and agricultural productions of thefe
parts, as Mr. Robinfon. Mr. Potter and his whole family w r ere formerly
among the feveral zealous adherents of Jemima, but his attachment is
now converted into contempt, and even deteftation. He has riot only
renounced all communion with her, but, at the fame time, all the pecu-
liar habits and tenets of the Quakers. He lives on his eftate in a more
elegant and gentleman like manner, than any other land-holder in this
neighbourhood. He keeps feveral fervants, and rather fuperintends the
management of his eftate by others, than attends actively to it himfelf.
He poflerTes a good corn-mill, and a faw-mill, which are both worked for
him, by a miller whom he employs. His corn-mill has yet ground folely
for the public ; and, for this realbn, it has only one courfe, although the
quantity of w r ater is fully fufficient to fupply two. He intends to add
another courfe, as foon as the country iliall be fufficiently populous to
keep it in employment. The faw-mill may alfo be enlarged, as oceafion
requires. The ufual price for the fawing of timber is either fix dollars in
money for every thoufand feet, or half the boards cut. We were very
civilly received by Mr. Potter and his family, yet rather with exterior po-
litenefs than true urbanity. Mr. Potter fpeaks little, yet exprefles himfelf
on moll fubje&s with great propriety. Whether from bamfulnefs, or

affectation;,

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LlANCOURT. 125

affeclation, he has about him an air of referve, which is not a little difa-
greeable to a traveller, and proves unfavourable to his defire of informa-
tion the great motive which brought us hither. It muft, however, be
admitted, that to anfwer the endlefs queftions of ftrangers muft, at beft,
prove an irkfome taik to a land-holder a confemon, w r hich includes our
moft grateful acknowledgments to thofe, who have been polite enough to
gratify our curiofity.

The w T hole country abounds in fugar- maple trees *, and very confider-
able quantities of this fugar are made here. The following is the fubftance
of the information, which w 7 e were able to procure on this head :

1 . The medium produce of a tree, {landing in the midft of a wood, is
three pounds of fugar.

2. The average produce of trees, {landing on ground which has been
cleared of all other wood, is from fix to feven pounds per tree.

3. A barrel of the firil juice, which comes from the maple- tree, will
yield feven pounds of fugar, if the tree {land fingie, and four, if it {land in
the midft of other wood. This fugar is fold at one {hilling per pound.

4. A barrel of the fecond juice will yield three gallons and a half of
treacle.

5. Four or five barrels of the third juice will yield one barrel of a good
and pleafant vinegar.

C. The vinegar is found to be better, in proportion as it is more con-
centrated. This is the cafe with Robinfon's vinegar, who, from ten bar-
rels of the third juice, brews but one barrel of vinegar.

7. To clarify the vinegar, it muft be boiled \vith leaven.

8. The third juice, which is not ufed for vinegar, yields cyder of an ex-
cellent flavour, when mixed with an equal quantity of water.

Q. The longer the firft juice is boiled, the better and finer the fugar will

become.

1 o. In order that the trees may continue productive, they require to

be tapped with extraordinary care; i. e. the fiflures muft be neither too
deep,, nor too wide, fo that no water may fettle in them, after the juice

* Acer faccharinum, Lin. called by the Indians Ozeketa. Tranfl.

126 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

is extracted, and that the wood may clofe again in the fpacc of a twelve-
month.

1 1 . During the time the juice is flowing out, which lafts about fix
weeks, and generally begins on the ift of February, all the days on
which it freezes or rains are loft, fo that the number of days on which
the bufmefs can be purfued to advantage is frequently, from thefe cir-
cumftances, much diminifhed.

12. Maple fugar, however, is already obtained in fufficient quantities,
to form a refpeftable article of trade, as during the above time two per-
fons can frequently make from five to fix hundred pounds of it, and
this quantity will be increafed in proportion to the number of work-
men employed. As the maple-tree, wherever it grows, multiplies with
aftonifhing rapidity, we found, almoft every where on our journey, no
want of excellent fugar. At Robinfon's it w 7 as better and finer than we
had met with any where elfe ; although in general it is not fo white here
as at Afylum, where MefTrs. de VILLAINE and D'ANDLAU refine it with
the yolks of eggs. At honeft Robinfon's we alfo partook of an excel-
lent liqueur, or dram, which he called cherry-rum, and which confifts of
the juice of wild cherries, mixed up with a fmall quantity of rum. We
learned, on this occafion, that the cherry-tree never produces fruit in a
foreft, but only when it {lands fmgle; from which it fhould feem, that the
neighbouring trees injure and impede its vegetation. We were indebted
chiefly to Mr. Robinfon for the information we obtained on this fubjecl,
but the truth of it was equally confirmed from other quarters.

Our rambles in this neighbourhood led us, at length, to Friendfmill,
where we found Captain Williamfon. The refolution of making this
additional excurfion, in lieu of waiting for him at Bath, feemed the
moft proper we could adopt. I think it right here to take fome notice
of our worthy landlady at Friendfmill. She is a young woman, born
and married at New York, whom the fpeculating propenfity of her
hufband has brought into this country to keep an inn. She arrived
here about two months ago ; the elegance of her manners, and the pro-
priety of her conduct, diftinguilh her very advantageoufly, even from many

American

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 127

American ladies, who move in a higher fphere than that of inn-keepers.
Her hufband, engaged in his {peculations, has been abfent almoft all
the time fince her arrival here. This young and elegant perfon, highly
amiable in every point of view, derives additional charms from her
delicate ftate of health, which feems to indicate, that Die was not de-
figned by nature for the drudgery of an inn-keeper's wife in America.
She is, moreover, without the affiftance of any fervant, and is, confe-
quently, obliged to perform every menial work herfelf in her new fitua-
tion ; and this me does with a degree of induftry, and a mien fo noble and
graceful, as at once to command our fympathy, refpecl, and love. We
found ourfelves interefted in her, me attracted all our efteem, and
gained our warmeft admiration. On our departure we teftified our
wifh that her hufband might foon return, and bring with him the fer-
vants me Hands fo much in need of; and, without whofe affiftance her
health would be irretrievably injured, by the inceffant toils requifite in
her prefent fituation. On the whole, we obferved, that the women are
handfomer here than in any other parts of the Continent we have
hitherto traverfed.

Monday, the 8/// of June.

Our friend Blacons, who had not yet completely recovered from his ^
fall, and was apprehcniive of a {imilar accident on our way back, pro-
pofcd to wait for us in Canandaqua, in order to avoid the fatigue of
travelling eighty miles with us in a difficult country. We fhould value
our friends not for the pleafure they afford us, but on their own account.
This truifm, which in general is confidered as mere theory, was here
reduced by us to practice. We felt and teftified our regret at parting
with Blacons, but left this matter to his own option ; fearful, only, that
he mould mifs his way, though mort and plain enough. He would
not have taken this refolution, probably, could he have forefcen that
M. Dupetitthouars and myfelf, miffing our way at the very outfet,
would be neceffitated to ftrike into the upper road, which is very good,
and thus avoid the impediments, which occafioned his fall, and juftifled
his appreheniions.

128 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

On our way back to Bath we met with nothing remarkable, except
an Indian intoxicated w r ith whiiky, and who demanded of us more of
that liquor. He belonged to a troop, which was hunting in the foreft,
and had his child with him, though no Indian habitation was to be
found within the fpace of tw r o or three hundred miles. Nothing,
however, is more common than thefe hunting-rambles, even at fuch
a great distance from all habitations. The produce of the chafe they
fell to any inhabitants they meet for a dollar or a bottle of whifky,
and behave, on moft occafions, in a very orderly manner. Few or no
complaints are made of them ; a circumftance the more eafily accounted
for, as an intoxicated perfon is here by no means an uncommon appear-
ance.

Wednefday, the 10th of June.

At Bath we were led by a train of reflections to obferve how much
the fuccefs of a fettlement depends on the activity, judicious manage-
ment, incefTant application, and fteady profecution of a well- concert-
ed plan ; fuccefs, indeed, muft neceflarily crown not only this fort of
undertaking, but all others, when thus planned and executed. Whe-
ther Captain Williamfon be the fole proprietor of the lands in Geneflee,
or co-ow 7 ner thereof ; or, which appears to me the moft probable, is
merely the agent of the wealthy Sir WILLIAM PULTENEY of London,
the real pofTeflbr of thefe lands, all things relative to the fettlement of
them are tranfacled in the Captain's name, he being confidered as the
fole creator, director, and main fpring, of every acl of purchafe and fale
w 7 hich is made or negociated.

The land in Geneflee, or rather that part of it which belongs to the
State of Maflachufetts, and was not then fold, was, in 1701, pur-
chafed in London of Mr. Morris for one milling per acre ; he had bought
it of Mr. PHELPS for five-pence per acre. The contracl: was con-
cluded on the fuppofition, that this trad: of land contained a million of
acres ; and on condition, that the fifty thoufand pounds flerling, which
were to be paid immediately, fhould be returned by Mr. Morris, pro-
vided

BY THE DUKE DE LA EOCHEFOUCAULT LfANCOURT. 1 2<J

vided that Captain Williamfon, who was to view the lands, Ihould not
find them anfwerable to the dcfcription given by the vender. Captain
Williamfon was highly fatisfied with the lands ; and, of courfc, the agree-
ment was definitively fettled. It reflects no little credit on Mr. Morris,
that, when on furveying the lands a furplus of one hundred and twenty
thoufand acres was difcovered, he made no difficulty in transferring
them, together with the reft, to Captain Williamfon, without the leaft
remuneration, becaufe, as he obferved, it had been his intention bona
fide to fell the whole without any refervation whatever. But for this
generous mode of proceeding, the difcovery of fuch a confiderable fur-
plus might have furnimed ample matter for litigation. It is much to
be wimed, that fo difmterefted and liberal a character may find means,
to extricate himfelf from the difficulties, in which he is now involved.

This diflricl of Captain Williamfon's, bounded on one fide by
Lake Ontario, and on the other by the river GenefTee, extends eighty
miles in length by thirty or forty in breadth. Though this diftrict
comprehends a quantity of land, which was fold antecedent to Captain
Williamfon's contract, yet its continuity is not thereby interrupted.
Captain Williamfon has purchafed fome other land, which he has an-
nexed to that bought of Mr. Morris, fo that he is now the poprietor of
a tract confiding of not lefs than one million five hundred thoufand acres.
After having fpent fix months in vifiting and furveying this extenfive di-
ftrict, he at length came to a determination, to found at once feveral
large eftablilhments, rather than one capital colony. He accordingly
fixed upon the mofr eligible fpots for building towns, which were to
ferve as central points to his w r hole fyftem of fettlements ; thefe were,
Bath, on the creek of Conhoctoon; Williamfburg, on the river GenefTee;
Geneva, at the extremity of Lake Seneca; and Great Sodus, on Lake
Ontario. He has divided his whole territory into fquares of fix miles,
more or lefs, varying a little according to local circumftances. Each of
thefe fections is to form what he calls a diftrict.

The captain very juftly obferved, that this excellent land, for it is
in general of the beft quality, would foon find purchafers, when its

S fertility

130 TRAVELS IN SOUTH AMERICJt,

fertility mould come to be properly known. He made it therefore his firft
bufmefs, to eftablifh a mode of communication between Philadelphia and
this new tracl. Formerly perfbns travelling to thefe parts were obliged
to proceed hither by the way of Albany and New York ; which caufed a
circuit of five hundred miles or more, that part of the road included
which leads from Northumberland to Loyalfock, on the eaflern arm of
the Sufquehannah. Captain Williamfon has iliortened this way by at
leaft three hundred miles. The new road likewife, which leads from
Bath by Painted Poft, is now continued as far as Williamfburg, while
a by-road runs from Bath to Canandaqua, another from Bath to Geneva,
and a third from Canandaqua to Great Sodus* In addition to thefe, fe-
veral others have been made, which, though yet not much frequented,
will in time become of great importance. For the ufe of this vaft ter-
ritory, the Captain has already erected ten mills, namely, three corn and
feven law-mills, together with a great number of houfes ; and he has be-
gun, in feveral places, to clear the wood-lands. The confiderable fums,
which, being HifHciently rich for that purpofe, he was under the necef-
fity of advancing, before he could fell an inch of ground, he juftly con*
fiders as money laid out to the greateft poffible advantage.

He moreover put himfelf to the heavy expence of transporting eighty
families hither from Germany ; which mould have been fele&ed from
among the inhabitants of Saxony ; but which his agent at Hamburgh
chofe from among the crouds of foreigners, whom poverty, idlenefs,
and neceffities of every kind, induce to refort to that mercantile city,
with a view to emigration. Thefe families, which on their arrival here
were placed on fmall farms, have not however cleared the land allotted
to them. Being maintained from the firft out of Captain Williamfon's
ftores, they did not fo much as work on the roads, which they were to
finifh ; and their leader, the very agent, who had fele&ed and brought
them over, after having rioted for fome time in idlenefs, drunkennefs,
and debauchery, at length ran away, with the whole fet, to Canada ;
being gained oyer, if we may believe common fame, by the Englifh.

This

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCKEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 131

This fmifter incident, difcouraging as it was to the Captain, engaged
in bufinefs of great urgency and importance, did not however deprefs his
fpkits, or cool his zeal. The foreign labourers were inftantly replaced
by Irifhmen, with a very confiderable gain in point of the progrefs of
labour, as well as of faving in the article of expence. The roads, which
had been only begun, were foon put into good condition ; and the land,
which at firft w r as fold at one dollar per acre, in two years time fold for
three. The produce of about eight hundred thoufand acres, difpofed of in
this manner by Captain Williamfon, have not only refunded the purchafe-
money, and the whole amount of the other expence incurred, but alib,
by his own confeffion, yielded a nett profit of fifty thoufand pounds
flerling.

This great and rapid accumulation of property he, undoubtedly, owes
to the money he at firft advanced ; but befides the neceflity of this money
being laid out with judgment and activity, it was alfo requilite, that, in
addition to his other means of forwarding improvement, he Ihould be
mailer of fome fubordinate advantages, without which, fo rapid a return
of his firft difburfements was hardly to be expected. Captain Williamfon
conftantly refides in the very centre of his fettlements, which circum-
ftance, alone, gives him a very fuperior advantage over all the great
landholders, private fpeculators, and trading companies, who refide in
towns; for thefe, being often engaged in flock-jobbing, which holds
out confiderable profit, nearer in profpect than what can be obtained
from the fale of land, difcourage purchasers, either by Subjecting them
to enormous travelling charges, or obliging them to carry on a tedious
correspondence, in*the courfe of which they have frequently to wait a
long time before they can get a definitive anfwer, if they do not incur
confiderable unnecefTary expence to expedite the bufinefs.

Captain Williamfon, on the contrary, who is always to be found
in the midft of his pofTeffions, and is ever attentive to fee and anfwer
thofe who have bufinefs with him, frequently concludes a contract,
and removes every difficulty, in the courfe of a few minutes conver-

S 2 fation ;

TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

fation; fo that the purchafer, when he comes to view the land, being
extremely pleafed with the foil, the trifling purchafe- money, the fpeedy
conclufion of the contract, and the good reception he has experienced
from the Captain, on his return home imparts his fatisfaclion to his
whole neighbourhood, and generally brings along with his own family
fome new fettlers, who alfo win over other profelytes in the like man-
ner, and from the fame motives.

2dly, Captain Williamfon's land is free from all difpute or queftion
concerning its right of occupancy. His claims being ftricT:ly legal, all his
land is properly afcertained and marked out. The purchafers can, there-
fore, with entire fecurity, extend at once, like Captain Williamfon, their
operations over every part of their fettlement. This is an important ad-
ditional advantage in the fale and purchafe of land, which however is but
too little attended to by thofe, who are engaged in {peculations of this
nature.

3 dry, His land, the price for an acre of which has gradually rifen from
one dollar, to twelve Shillings, two dollars, and at laft to three dollars,
is always fold with a provifo, that a number of acres be cleared, equal
to the number of families which mall come to fettle, within eighteen
months. This claufe is, however, only exadled from thofe, who pur-
chafe a large quantity of land ; they who buy fmall mares of five^
hundred or a thoufand acres, are bound only to procure one family.
No contract is concluded without this claufe, which is of more import-
ance, than at firft fight it appears to be ; for every man, who poffeffes a
piece of ground, the value of which is progreffively encreafing every
year, will be felicitous not to forfeit the pofTeiTion >f it, and conduct,
himfelf accordingly. However, if he mould fell again before the ex-
piration of eighteen months, the new purchafer is rendered liable to the
condition, and Captain Williamfon, who adheres to his original con-
tract, and confiders the land as mortgaged for the execution of it, re-
fumes the porTeiiion of the lhares then fold, if the conditions of the fale
be aot fulfilled, This rigorous meafure is not purfued in cafes, where

known

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHKPOUCAULT HANCOURT. 13.')

known obftacles impede or protract the execution of the claufe : for the
Captain is too fenfible, that it is his intereft to acl: uniformly in a mild,
juft and condefcending manner. The claufe however can always be
enforced, and is actually enforced often enough, to fpur the indolence
of fuch purchafers as need this incitement. It is, therefore, upon the
whole, extremely well adapted to promote the fuccefs of his under-
taking. For, in proportion to the quantity of land already rendered
fit for cultivation, will doubtlefs be the price of that which yet re-
mains unfold.

4thly, The following are the Captain's terms of payment: to difchargc
half the purchafe-money in three years after the firft conclufion of the
contract, and the remainder at the expiration of fix years. The payment
of intereft to commence from eighteen months after the period when the
bargain is ftruck. Thefe terms are remarkably advantageous to a pur-
chafer ; for if he inftantly fet about clearing the ground, he may eafily
obtain the produce thereof, before the intereft becomes due ; nay, his
crops may frequently procure him fomewhat towards the payment of the
firft inftalment. Such families, as are extremely poor, the Captain fup-
plies occafionally with a cow, an ox, or even a houfe to live in. But
this generofity he exerciles with great prudence and difcretion. He
makes but few prefents of this nature, yet thefe are in fufficient number,
to invite colonifts, by a well-founded reliance on his general character
for benevolence ; and hitherto none, but German families, have abufed
his kindnefs. Affiftance fo highly important can only be afforded by
landholders, who refide perfonally on their demefnes. A proprietor,
who is abfent from his effete, or a diftant commercial company, can.
only acl: upon general principles, the application of which frequently
leads to inconvenient expences, or has a tendency even to deprive the
country of inhabitants, w T ho alone can give it agricultural or political
importance.

5thly, Captain Williamfon never eftablimes a fettlement, without hav-
ing previouily made fuch arrangements, as mall fecure a regular fupply of

provifion.

1 34 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA.,

provifion to the inhabitants. His own ftores, which however he does not
feem to confider as his own, are never opened, unlefs it ihould happen,
that fettlers, from want of prudence or property, are expofed to want.
Were he to open them before, the induftry of the inhabitants would be
xjuickly relaxed ; which in all new fettlements it is highly neceflary to
fofter and ftimulate. He employs the fame means in fuch fettlements
as are already formed ; and this precaution, though not always necef-
fary, is never attended with any lofs or damage, becaufe in a new coun-
try of fuch vail extent, the prime neceflaries of life are fure at all times
to meet with a ready fale.

Cthly, He encourages every new iettlement by taking himfelf a mare
in it. When five or fix new fettlers have formed the project of building
their houfes together, he always adds one to them at his own expence,
and which is much fuperior to theirs. This expence, which at firfl
fight feems to carry with it an air of geperofity, or perhaps affecta-
tion, is in reality founded on the foundeft policy. The mare, on which
Williamfon builds, generally acquires ten times its former value. A
purchafer or tenant foon appears ; and the different houfes and mills,
-which he .has creeled, have hitherto, without exception, produced twice
or three times as much as they coft.

7thly, Once every year, at leaft, he makes it a point, to vifit each of his
fettlements, and thus difFufes activity by his prefence. This infpection
tends to promote the fale of the land, and to enfure fecurity and eafe to
the purchafer. In addition to thefe prominent traits of his management,
he employs all the various means, which the peculiarity of fituation or
other circumftances may offer. Independently of the medical ftores,
which he keeps in all the chief places of his fettlement, he encourages
by premiums races, and all other games and paftimes of young peo-
ple. He is attemptiqg likewife _to eftablifh horfe-races, with a view
to improve the breed of horfes, and keeps himfelf a fet of beautiful ftai-
Jions. Thefe horfes cover only the mares of proprietors, who muft hire
them, from motives which muft be obvious to all who are converfant in
{hbjecti of this nature.

Captain

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LtANCOURT. 135

Captain Williamfon has now nearly put the finiming ftroke to
great undertaking. Next autumn he propofes to fail for England, and
to return the following fpring with a choice aflemblage of horfes, cattle,
and fheep, of the beft breeds he can obtain, and a collection of mo-
dels of all implements of agriculture, the dimenfions of which are fo
nicely calculated, and fo well made in that great country, where all
ufeful arts, and efpecially thofe which relate to agriculture, have at-
tained to an uncommon degree of perfection* Captain. Williamfon
will, therefore, not only procure to his extenfive poiTeffions fingular ad-
vantages over thofe of other landholders, but alfo become the benefactor
of America at large, whofe agriculture he cannot fail to meliorate, by
offering to her view improvements, fanctioned by time and experience.
What I have related on this head is not merely the refiilt of what we
faw and heard from the Captain himfelf during our ftay at Bath, but it
tallies correctly with the information we afterwards collected at Geneflee.
Captain Williamfon is here univerfally reipected, honoured, and beloved.
How glorious, in my efteem, is his career ! How fortunate and enviable
his deftination ! How much more important than that of a diffipated
courtier, or a mercenary ftock-jobber ! I too, not in a new country, but
in France, where there is fuch an ample field for ufeful exertion, formed
iimilar eflablimments on my eftates, by which I diffufed activity and in-
duftry all around me; I ftudied to enrich the country, and to render it
induftrious and fburiming. I hoped, and expected, to encreafe the feli-
city of my own iituation, by adding to the comforts of my poor neigh-
bours. Undertakings, which had no object but the welfare of my coun-
try, were beginning to be crowned with all the defired fuccefs, when I
was fuddenly obliged to relinquish that much loved country, to which
I was rendering fo much fervice. I am now, alas ! an exile ; all my
hopes have vanifhed like a fhadow. Solitarily I wander, without a coun-
try I can call my own : life, therefore, for me, is completely at an end.
But no more of thefe reflections on what I was, and what I am : they

are too painful;.

13(5 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

To return to Captain Williamfon. The four days we remained here,
we employed in vifiting the different fettlements in the neighbourhood
of Bath. This place has been fixed upon, to be the chief town of a
county. The prefent county of Ontario, at the next fitting of the Le-
giflative Aflembly of New York, is to be divided into two parts, one of
which is to retain its former name of Canandaqua, from the chief town
fo called ; and the other is to aifume the name of the county of Bath,
the chief place of which is to be the city of that name.

Mr. Williamfon is, at prefent, building a fchool, in Bath. This he
intends to endow with fome hundred acres of land, and to take upon
himfelf the maintenance of the mailer, until the money, paid for the in-
flru&ion of the children, mail be fufficient for his fupport. For good
reafons, the Captain has been for fome time'pafl enquiring after an able
fchool-mafter. He is alfo building a feffions-houfe and a prifon. The
prefent inn was likewife built by him ; but he afterwards difpofed of it
at a confiderable profit. He is now building another, chiefly to excite
proper emulation, and an Englimman already occupies a part of the un-
finifhed building, which, in addition to other conveniences, is alfo to
contain a ball-room. Near Bath, on the other fide of the Conhoctoon,
Jhe has creeled a corn- mill, and two faw-mills ; which works, from the
great quantity of water at hand, are capable of confiderable enlargement.
He is likewife conftrucling a bridge, for the purpofe of opening a free
and uninterrupted communication with the country on the other fide;
it will alib prove of efiTential fervice to the road leading to Williamfburg,
which runs along the foot of the mountains. Thefe mills, when finilhed,
will not coil more than five thoufand dollars ; and the Captain has al-
ready been offered for them twelve thoufand five hundred dollars, be*
fides a ihare of one hundred acres of land. He alfo pofieflTes fome fmall
farms in the vicinity of Bath. A good hufbandman, who was his neigh-
bour in Scotland, fuperintends thefe farms, which appear to me to be
better managed, and better ploughed, than any I have hitherto feen. In
all thefe fettlements, he has at leail one eflate referved for himfelf. The
flock on all of them is remarkably good, and he keeps them in his own

pofiTcffioiij

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFGUCAULT LIANCOURT. 137

pofleflion, until he can oblige fome of his friends with them, or hand-
ibme offers are made for them from other quarters.

To the different fettlements already mentioned the Captain is now
adding two others on Lake Ontario ; one near Rondegut, on the
river GenefTee ; and the other at Braddock, thirty miles farther inland.
As there appeared fome danger of a war breaking out between America
and England, it is but very lately, that he carried this project into execu-
tion ; and for the fame reafbn the works at Great Sodus have alfo been
much delayed. Lafl year General Simcoe, Governor of Upper Ca-
nada, who confidered the forts of Niagara and Ofwego, which the Eng-
lifh have retained, in violation of the treaty, as Englim property, toge-
ther with the banks of Lake Ontario, fent an Englim officer to the
Captain, with an injunction, not to perfifl in his defign of forming thefe
fettlements. The Captain returned a plain and fpirited anfwer, yet
neverthelefs conducted himfelf with a prudence conformable to the cir-
cumftances. All thefe difficulties, however, are now removed by the
profpecl: of the continuance of peace, and frill more fb by the treaty
newly concluded. It is afferted, that the fituation of Great Sodus, on
the coafl of this diflricl:, promises to afford fafe and convenient moor-
ings for mips, from the depth of the water, and that the poft may alfo be
eafily fortified againft an enemy. On confulting the map, the great im-
portance of fuch a harbour to the United States, will be readily dif-
cerned, whether it be confidered as a port for fhips of war, or for mer-
chantmen.

Hitherto I have fpoken of Captain Williamfon merely in his public
character, as founder of the mofl extenfive fettlement, which has hitherto
been formed in America. I ihall now follow him into private life, where
his hofpitality and other focial qualities render him equally confpicuous
and amiable : and here it is but doing him common juflice to fay, that
in him are united all the civility, good nature, and cheerfulnefs, which a
liberal education, united to a proper knowledge of the world, can impart.
We fpent four days at his houfe, from an early hour in the morning un-

T til

138 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

til late at night, without ever feeling ourfelves otherwife than at home.
Perhaps it is the faireft eulogium we can pafs on his free and eafy urba-
nity, to fay, that all the time of our ftay he feemed as much at his eafe,
as if we had not been prefent. He tranfacted all his buiinefs in our pre-
fence, and was actively employed the whole day long. We were pre-
fent at his receiving perfons of different ranks and defcriptions, with
whom the apartment he allots to buiinefs is generally crouded. He re-
ceived them all with the fame civility, attention, cheerfulnefs, and good
nature. They come to him prepoffeiTed with a certain confidence in
him, and they never leave him dhTatisfied. He is at all times ready to
converfe with any, who have bufmefs to tranfacl with him. He will
break off a converfation with his friends, or even get up from dinner,
for the fake of difpatching thofe, who wifh to fpeak to him. From this
conftant readinefs of receiving all who have bufmefs with him, ihould any
conclude, that he is influenced by a third of gain, this furmife would be
contradicted by the unanimous teftimony of all who have had dealings
with him, thofe not excepted, who have bought land of him, which
many of them have fold again with confiderable advantage to themfelves.
But were it even undeniable, that money is his leading or fole object, it
is highly defirable, that all, who are fwayed by the fame paffion, would
gratify it in the fame juft, honourable, and ufeful manner.

The prices of all forts of provifion, of cattle, and labour, in this dif-
trift, are exactly the fame as in the Friends' Settlement, or, at leaft, fo
nearly the fame, that it is needlefs to mention the difference. The
price of carpenter's work is four pence a foot for hewn timber, and
two dollars for ten fquare feet in boarding the fides of buildings, or cover-
ing them with mingles. It mould be obferved, however, that all forts
of merchandize are much dearer in the mops here than at Mrs. Hill's,
at Friendfmill. The price of commodities in thefe new fettlements
depends, it may be faid, entirely on the honour of the trader ; for
he alone can fupply the wants of the inhabitants, and the Americans
never offer lefs than the feller demands. The prices of planks are

higher

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 13Q

higher at the Captain's mill than any where clfe. He takes feven dollars
per thoufand for cutting them, and the mill, which is continually at work,
can cut fix thoufand in twenty-four hours time. He fells them at the
rate of nine millings per hundred. Should he continue pofleflbr of the
mill for any length of time, it is his intention to lower the price. He
obferved to us, that if he were to do fo at prefent, he mould difcourage
all the other inhabitants, who may have formed the defign of con-
ftrucling mills, and that the prices will foon be brought down by com-
petition.

We are aflured, that the climate here is much more temperate, both
in winter and fummer, than in Pennsylvania ; that the winter feldom or
never lafts above four months ; that the cattle, even in that feafon, graze
in the foreft without inconvenience ; and that no provifion of fodder is
requifite, during the winter, except for fuch cattle as are to be fattened.
Neither does the fnow ever lie fo deep as to cover all the herbs, which
ferve for their pafture.

Captain Williamfon has hitherto endeavoured, but in vain, to remove
the objection of this diftricl: being rather unhealthy. In his opinion, the
unhealthinefs afcribed to it is nothing but the natural effect of the climate
upon new fettlers, and is confined to a few fits of fever, with which {Gran-
gers are ufually feized in the firft or fecond year after their arrival. It is
certain, however, that the inhabitants all agree in this unfavourable re-
port of their climate ; notwithftanding which crouds of new fettlers re-
fort every year to this diftricl:. Thus much, at leaft, we obferved, that
marfhes and pieces of ftagnant water are thickly ipread over the face of
the country ; but thefe will, no doubt, be drained, as population and
cultivation mall encreafe ; this however is and will for fome time be un-
attempted ; and moreover, the water for common drink is in moft places
unpleafant and unwholesome.

Though we ilept at the inn, yet we fpent the whole day, from morn-
ing to night, at Mr. Williamfon's, where we enjoyed more tranquillity
than in the noify inn, which is no bigger than a fparrow's neft, and is

T 2 always

14O TRAYELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

always crouded with travellers. One night twenty -five of us ilept in
two rooms, in fix beds, which rooms were, in fact, nothing but defpi-
cable corn-lofts or garrets, pervious to the wind and rain.

The habitation of the Captain confifts of feveral fmall houfes, formed
of trunks of trees and joiner's work, which at prefent make a very irre-
gular whole, but which he intends foon to improve. His way of living
is fimple, neat, and good ; every day W T e had a joint of frefh meat, ve-
getables, and wine. We met with no circumftances of pomp or lux-
ury, but found eafe, good humour, and plenty. In the ufeful, yet com-
fortable, manner, in which the Captain lives, life may be fecurely en-
joyed, without difturbing the enjoyments of others.

About twenty houfes compofe, as yet, the whole of the town of Bath.
It is built on one of the bays, which the Conhofton forms in its courfe.
The banks of this creek are bounded on the oppofite fide by pretty high
mountains, which are chiefly covered with pines and hemlock firs.

Our firft intention was to have flopped at Captain Williamfon's only
one day ; in compliance with his wifh, however, we added another, and
neceffity compelled us to ftay a third. When on the point of fetting
out, I perceived that my horfe was lame \ and though we were aflured,
that he might make the journey without the leaft inconvenience, yet
Captain Williamfon obligingly infifled on our ftaying one day longer.
We fhould not have hefitated a moment to comply with this invitation,
but for the uneafinefs, which our delay might occafion to our friend Bla-
eons. Mr. Guillemard obviated this difficulty, by offering to proceed
himfelf, and thus remove any anxiety of our friend. Mr. Dupetitthouars
and myfelf yielded, after this, with great pleafure, to the earneft and po-
lite entreaties of the Captain.

Mrs. Williamfon, whom we had not feen for the firft two days, made
rier appearance on the third at dinner. To judge from her deportment,
timidity^ even to a degree of baihfulnefs, had till then deprived us of her
company* She is a native of Bofton, and was married there to the Cap-
tain, who, in the contefl with Britain, had refided at Bofton as a prifoner

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LlAXCOUTxT. 141

of war; being carried thither by a privateer, who captured the fhip, on
board of which he was a pafTenger, with a view to join his regiment.
Mrs. Williamfon, it feems, had followed her hufband to Scotland, and
afterwards to GeneiTee. She is yet but a young woman, of a fair com-
plexion, civil, though of few words, and mother of two lovely children,
one of whom, a girl three years old, is the fineft and handfomefl I ever
law. This our opinion we did not fail to report to her parents, which af-
forded them great fatisfaclion.

Frtday, the 12th of June.

Our horfes, as well as ourfelves-, being completely refreshed and reco-
vered, through the civility of the Captain, we at length quitted his hof-
pitable dwelling, and took our leave, with mutual promifes of epiftolary
correfpondence, and rendering each other every fervice in our power
by which at leaft my travelling companion, Dupetitthouars, and myfelf r
could furely be no lofers.

After leaving Bath, we pafled through a fmall fettlement, confuting of
about four Englifh families, which arrived here from London only fix
months ago. They are chiefly fawyers r who had been ufed to work for
the cabinet-makers in that great metropolis. They now work for them?
felves, and pofTefs each an cftate of about ninety acres. Thefe they have
already begun to clear for cultivation, affifting each other with- their cattle
and labour. They cannot fail, in time, to make their fortunes ;. and in
the mean while they enjoy that ftate of independence, which forms one
of the beffc bleffings of life, if accompanied with the means of fubfiftence.
Their log-houfes have an appearance of cleanlinefs, neatnefs, and order,
which plainly befpeak thefe families to be Englifh. To judge from the
choice of their books, which form a part of their furniture, and from the
converfation of fome of them,, they appear to be Methodifb. Thefe new
Engliih fettiers have, this year, already made maple-fugar, and one of
them the fineft I have yet feen, even that of Afylum not excepted. Two
of the wives of thefe new fettiers have already caught the fever, and not

one-

142 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

one of them appears to enjoy a good ftate of health. Eighteen miles
farther from Bath, we found another family, that came hither lalt au-
tum from Maryland, afflicted with a fever. Four miles farther on we
flopped at one Mrs. BEYER'S, who was likewife laid up with an in-
termittent fever, the fits of which returned every day. This fever may,
perhaps, be a tribute, paid but once to the climate, as Captain William-
ion thinks ; but the country, excellent as it is in all other refpecls, car-
ries, I think, undoubted marks of being unhealthy ; fuch as flagnant
waters, phofphoric exhalations, fwampy creeks, bad water for drinking,
and an abfolute fcarcity of fprings. Having fome quantity of bark in our
travelling- cafe, we gave a little of it to Mrs. Bever, with directions how to
ufe it ;' we, at the fame time, wrote a letter to Captain Williamfon, in-
forming him of the diflrefs of this family, and of their want of more
bark. We entertain little doubt, but that the Captain will receive this
intelligence as a firft attempt to fulfil, on our part, the engagement we
entered into when we took leave of him.

It will be eafily conceived, that after we had given the poor woman
this advice, her hufband fhewed us all the refpecl, which men of the me-
dical profeffion generally receive in this country. Yet his demonftrations
qf refpecl: ceafed, when we refufed his repeated offers to pay us for the
bark. Though we no longer appeared to Bever phyficians of the ufual
caft, yet we were certainly deemed very knowing and clever, for feveral of
the ten or twelve perfons, who had repaired to this cottage for fhelter and
food, fhewing us their wounds and contufions, requefted our advice con-
cerning them. We recommended to them, to wafh their fores with fait
and water ; and the fimplicity of this remedy, which would perhaps have
met with little approbation from European peafants, did not here, in the
leaft, abate the high opinion, which thefe good people had conceived of
our fuperior knowledge. The company we met with at Mr. Bever's
confided of furveyors and fome other perfons, who had Purveyed land,
which they intended to purchafe on the heights of Lake Canandaqua.

I fay on the heights, becaufe in that place a chain of mountains, about

ten

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCIlEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 143

fieri or twelve miles in length, feparates the water, which flows in a
fouthern direction, from that, which difcharges itfelf into the river of St.
Laurence.

We found, among thefe perfons, a young man, who about fix
weeks before had been bitten on the knee by a rattle-make, while he
was fifhing on the banks of Lake Canandaqua. At firft he did not feel
much pain in the part affecT:ed ; but an hour afterwards a fwelling ap-
peared, which gradually extended all along the leg to the foot, and
both became fo ftiff, that he was unable to move them. A cure was
effected within the fpace of only fix days by the juice of fnake-root laid
on the wound and fwelling, as a poultice, mixed with milk, together
with a few drops of that juice, pure and unmixed, taken internally.
Inftances of fuch bites occur but very feldom, and only, it feems, when
the animal has been touched ; otherwife it conftantly retires, and may
be killed by a blow with the flenderefl ftick.

It is a common obfervation, that wild animals are lefs fierce in
America than in other parts of the globe ; the truth of this is con-
firmed by the teftimony of fuch as, from their refidence in forefts, are
bell qualified to poiTefs fatisfaclory information. Wolves, bears, nay
even panthers, moftly flee before man ; and the inftances of their do-
ing mifchief are fo rare, that the very reality of it might be doubted.

The dangers, therefore, to which new fettlers are expofed, are not
much to be apprehended. The fevereft misfortune, to which the inha-
bitants of the American foreft are liable, is the lofs of their children in
the woods. Thefe unfortunate infants, over whom it is almoft impofli-
ble to keep conftantly a watchful eye, are apt to run out of the houfe,
which is feldom fenced the firfl year, and flraying from their homes
are unable to find them again. In fuch cafes, however, all the neigh-
bours, nay perfons from the remoteft parts, join in the fearch after
thefe little unfortunate creatures, and fometimes they are found ; but
there are alfo inftances of their being totally loft, or difcovered only, when
dead of hunger or fear.

144 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

Saturday, the 13 th of June.

From Bever's we rode on, till we came to Cap tain METCALF'S, where
we flopped for the night. He lives at the diftance of eight miles from
the former houfe, and keeps an inn. This diftricT: is called Watkinf-
town, from feveral families of this name, who pofTefs the greateft pro-
perty here. The road from Bath to Metcalf's habitation is generally
bad enough, as is moftly the cafe in a luxuriant foil, and efpecially after
a fall of rain ; fo that, w T here the roads are not properly made, the
intereft of the traveller muft abfolutely clam with that of the land-
owner.

Two miles on this fide of Bever's houfe we had obferved the com-
mencement of a range of mountains, which appeared to us to feparate,
in thefe parts, the waters of the Sufquehannah from thofe of the
lakes.

After we had palTed the above Englifh fettlement near Bath, we met
with no habitation but at diftances of eighteen, twenty, and twenty-
two miles. Between Metcalf's houfe and Canandaqua, however, the
dwellings ftand clofer together. The lands, belonging to Captain
Williamfon, terminate at Bever's houfe ; all the ground thence to
Canandaqua, and farther on, has been fold by Robert Morris, or
Meflrs. Phelps and Gorham, who had purchafed their demefnes before
Mr. Williamfon bought his. Metcalf, for inftance, three years ago,
purchafed his eftate from them for one fhilling per acre. Of the one
thoufand acres, he then bought, he has already fold five hundred and
upwards for from one to three dollars per acre, and fome have fetched
twenty-five dollars.

The profits, which are made by fpeculations in land, all over Ame-
rica, and efpecially in this neighbourhood, are great, beyond calcula-
tion. We panned, however, through feveral fettlements, which were
deferted. Occurrences of this kind are common enough in new coun-
tries ; and experience Ihews, that of ten new fettlers, who, in the firit

infhmce

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT tlANCOURT. 145

inftance join to clear and cultivate frefh grounds, at the expiration of
a couple of years, one only will, for the moft part, remain; and the
fecond, nay, at times, the third fettlers are generally the bcft colonifts.
They take advantage of the labours and difburfements of their prede-
ceflbrs, remain in the country, and thus become truly ufeful to the fet-
tlement. Captain Metcalf, befides his lands and inn, poflefles a faw-
mill, where four thoufand five hundred feet of boards are cut daily.
Thefe boards he fends on the Lake to Canandaqua, where they are fold
for ten milling. a thoufand feet. Wheat is fold here for fix millings a
bufhel, and Indian corn for four millings. There is a fchoolmafter in
Watkinftown, with a falary of twelve dollars per month ; all the fami-
lies, that contribute to this ftipend, have the right of fending their chil-
dren to his fchool.

The road to Canandaqua is bad and miry, running for the firft three
miles conftantly along water. A little farther on, where its direction U
more elevated, it mends. The foil contains a ftratum of black earth,
a foot or more in depth. On travelling this road, we obferved one or
two extenfive trab of ground, cleared by the Indians, but few habi-
tations. The few ploughs we faw here were drawn by oxen. The
woods are thick and lofty. Sugar- maple, black birch, oak, hickory,
hemlock fir, and beech, are the moft prevailing trees. The ague is a
common diforder in all thefe parts.

The Lake of Canandaqua, which we reached at the diftance of
four miles from the town, exhibits a very delightful afpecl. The banks
are not very low. The long and tedious famenefs of thefe woods,
through which we had pafled, contributed, probably, not a little to
enhance the agreeablenefs of the profpecl: now before us. On the
oppofite fide of the lake is an orchard, where very confiderable quail*
tities of cyder are made for fale at Canandaqua.

Sunday, the \4th of June.

Canandaqua is, as I have already obferved, the chief town of the county
<jf Ontario. It ftands on the bank of the lake of the fame name. On

U the

TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

the ground, now occupied by the town, flood, four years ago, a {in-
gle factory, which carried on fome trade with the Indians. The town
confifts, at prefent, of forty houfes. The territory of this city, which,
contains about fifty thoufand acres, is one of the diftricls, which be-
longed to the State of Maflachuietts, and w T ere fold prior to the con-
tract concluded with Captain Williamfon. The town, although feated
on an eminence, is not more healthy than the neighbouring country,
Mr. de Blacons found here, laft autumn, a great number of perfons
afflicted with the ague. This was attributed to the uncommon wet-
nefs of the feafon, and the ague, it was faid, had made its appearance
during the rains. We are now here in the month of June ; and yet
it rages as much, if not more, than it did laft autumn. No alle-
viation of this afflicting circumftance is, therefore, to be expected, ex-
cept from time, and a gradual encreafe of labour, cultivation, and popu-
lation. The houfes in Canandaqua, though all built of wood, are
much better than any of that defcription I have hitherto feen in Bother
cities. They confift moftly of joiner's work, and are prettily painted.
In front of fome of them are fmall courts, furrounded with neat railings-
Some of the inhabitants poffefs considerable property ; among thefe are
Meflrs. Phelps and Gorham, for a long time paft proprietors of thefe lands,,
or, to fpeak more properly, their children ; Mr. THOMAS MORRIS, fon
of Mr. Robert Morris of Philadelphia, and agent for his father in the
management of a large tra& of land, which he poffefles in this neigh-
bourhood, with other confiderable diftricls on the banks of the river
GeneiTee,' and beyond it, ftill occupied by the Indians, but which he
has acquired the right of purchafmg in preference to all other peribns ;
Mr. CHIPPING, director of the affairs of the United States with the In-
dians ; and many others, whofe names I have not been able to learn.
There are two inns in the town, and feveral mops, where commodities
are fold, and fhoes and other articles made. The encreafe of popula-
tion, however, is not confiderable in thefe new fettlements ; and there
is at prefent a great deficiency of labouring men. The habitations in
the adjoining diflricl are but thinly fcattered. The lands, as well as the

town-

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAU 1 T LIAXCOURT. 14?

town-mares, are, for the molt part, the property of rich individuals, who
refide in towns, and having purchafed them on fpeculation, are unwil-
ling to part with them until time mall have railed their value.

The only potable water in Canandaqua is obtained by pumps ; but
even this is indifferent, and no fpring has yet been found in the town,
or in its neighbourhood. There is not even a creek lefs than four or
five miles dhtant ; and there is, confequently, no profpect of eftabliming
any mills nearer the town.

The lands here are faid to produce as much wheat as is necefTary for
the coniiimption of the inhabitants ; the ordinary price of it is fix mil-*
lings a bufhel. The woods contain but very few large trees, the fcarcity
of which, together with the want of faw-mills, is the reafon why boards,
when bought at the mill, coft here ten dollars a thoufand. The price
of land is three dollars per acre, without the town, and fifteen dollars
within its precincts. The price of Indian corn, oats, &c. are much the
fame as at Friendfmill and Bath. Day-labourers, whom it is difficult to
procure, generally earn five millings per day wages. During the lafl
harveft, however, Mr. Thomas Morris paid as high as ten millings, be-
fides finding them in victuals. The land, although tolerably good, is in-
ferior to what we faw in other parts of GenefTee, which we traverfed.
The average produce, in the firft year of its cultivation, is from twenty
to twenty-four bufhels of wheat per acre. They make ufe of the plough
even in the firfl year. The oxen are good, bccaufe moft of the new
fettlers come from New England, and generally bring their cattle with
them from that province. In our journey we met, near Canandaqua,
feveral parties of American emigrants, more or lefs numerous, travelling
to Niagara. One of them confuted of five or fix families, who had
with them, thirty-four head of cattle. Thefe travelling companies are
very frequent ; emigration from Niagara into the United States is alfo
confiderable, but lefs fo than in the firft-mentioned direction.

I had a letter to Mr. Chipping from General Kxox, which Mr. de Z^ (
Blacons had delivered previous to our arrival. This letter procured us

U2 an

14S TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

an Indian, who fpoke the French language, and was to conduct us in
our journey from Canandaqua to Niagara. He was accordingly fent
for by Mr. Chipping. We called at the houfe of that gentleman, to re-
turn him our thanks for this favour, and alfo to fee fome Indians, who
were with him. He acts as agent for the United States, with all the na-
tions bordering on Canandaqua.

Thefe Indians were about twelve in number, among w T hom were feve-
ral chiefs of the tribe of Seneca Indians ; one of them was RED JACKET,
a warrior of no fmall note among his countrymen. They paid Mr.
Chipping a vifit, that is to fay, they came to partake of his whifky
and meat. Such parties come very frequently, and, in general, merely
for this, and no other purpofe. On thefe occafions they drink as much
as they can, and, when fatiated, a few bottles are generally diftributed
among the party, to take with them. We found them in a fmall hut,
behind the agent's houfe, which indeed refembled a ftable, rather than a
houfe. Two of them lay on the ground, intoxicated to a high degree
of infenfibility. They were nearly naked, except that each wore a wool-
len apron, about a foot fquare, fattened to a girdle, to which it was again
tied behind. From this girdle is fufpended that dreadful inftrument,
the fcalping-knife ; a fmall knife, which they generally ufe to cut their
meat. Their heads were not fhaved, but the hair was cut very fhort,
and tied above in a braid, which is made to pafs through a filver pipe ;
their ears were quite bare, and adorned with a variety of fmall rings'.
Some wore fmall filver plates at the extremity of the nofe, which is ge-
nerally confidered as an ornament of diftinction for the chieftains. They
were all very cheerful, addicted to laughter, and full of glee. They ap-
peared highly delighted with viewing us, and were moft of them hand-
fome looking men. One fpoke a little Englim. As we expect to fee
whole tribes of Indians in the progrefs of our journey, I may perhaps
hereafter be able to give a more ample and fatisfactory account concern-
ing them. As far as my knowledge and obfervation reach at prefent, it
is merely the immoral policy of civilized nations, which has fubjected

thefe

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

thefe people to the lowed rank in the fcale of human beings. As long
as they were fuffered to remain in their favage ftate, they were warlike
and independent, wild, perhaps, yet humane. Now that the white peo-
ple find it convenient, to attach them to their interefts, they are feduced
with money and whifky, and rendered as brutal and debauched, as it is
poffible to make them. The odious and illiberal artifices practifed by ci-
vilized nations, to render every thing fubfervient to their interefts only,
make their vaunted fuperiority appear the more difgufting to the eye of
genuine philanthropy.

A little before our arrival, a party of Indians, from the neighbourhood
of Le Boeuf, came to Captain Chipping's, to demand juftice upon an
American foldier, who had murdered two Indians, from motives of jea-
loufy and revenge. The bufmefs, however, was huflied up by the pay-
ment of two hundred dollars for each Indian, which is the fettled price
of compenfation in fuch cafes, and the foldier remained at liberty. Not
fo, however, when an Indian murders a white man : in this cafe, the
affaffin is delivered up to the Americans, and hanged. And thus it is
that a people, which makes its boaft of honefty, juftice, and equality,
can connive at the moft flagrant perverfion of juftice, to the eternal
difgrace of both its executors and its victims ! The treatment of the
Indians, and the fervitude of the negroes, have branded the fair face of
American freedom with an odious ftigma, which government, as foon
as poffible, fhould ftrain every nerve to efface. It is to be feared, how-
ever, that the caufes will not be eafily removed, connected as they are
with one of the moft powerful paffions of the human breaft the love
of money !

We hoped to find a good inn at Canandaqua, which is no unpleafant
thing in the GenefTee country in general, but we were difappointed.
What reafons could induce Mr. Blacons to prefer the fecond inn, I could
not learn, but it is certainly far inferior to the firft. We put up, however,
at the fecond, though not without throwing fome blame on our friend,
who is, in general, more prudent in his counfel. Our diilatisfaction was
greatly encreafed, when we were {hewn into the corn-loft to fleep, being

four

152 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

We were much concerned at our disappointment in not finding Mr.
Thomas Morris at Canandaqua. But a young gentleman of the name
of WICKHAM, who feemed to be his clerk, and lives in his houfe, re-
ceived us with as much civility as he could have done himfelf. In ad-
dition to other kind offices, he gave us a letter to Captain Watworth,
a nephew of Colonel Watworth of Connecticut, who lives in Ontario,
and is concerned with Mr Thomas Morris in the purchafe of lands.

Our letter of introduction obtained us, as we expected, an invitation
to fleep at the Captain's. On our arrival, he told us, that he was obliged
to fet out early the next morning for Canandaqua, to review a party of
foldiers, over whom he is captain. Two minutes after this the Captain
got on horfeback, to fee a friend, as he told us, though it was then eight
o'clock at night. This conduct, in France, would have juftified a fuf-
picion, that the mafter of the houfe was difpleafed with the vifit of his
guefts. With fome latitude it might, perhaps, have borne the fame
conftruction in America ; but we found it more convenient to afcribe it
to an uncommon love of eafe, and freedom from reflraint. There was
no inn in the neighbourhood ; and, as we found our fituation not at all
the worfe, but rather better for this his behaviour, we endeavoured to
make ourfelves on our part as agreeable as we could. As to his habita-
tion, it is a fmall log-houfe, as dirty and filthy as any I have ever feen.
Whether the ofTenfive fmell, which infected this dwelling, proceeded
from cats or decayed {lores, which the Captain is reported to keep fome-
trmes till they become putrefied, I am unable to determine ; but, this is
certain, that we never pafTed the night in a more unpleafant hole. The
beds, bedding, iheets, fowls, room, fmell, &c. in fhort, every thing was
naufeous, fo much fo, indeed, as to render the houfe extremely difagree-
ble. I rofe early in the morning to fee the Captain, before he fet out on
his journey. I found him undergoing the operation of hair dreiling by
his negro woman. He had juft fold a barrel of whifky to an Indian,
and was treating about the fale of fome land with two inhabitants of
Williamfburg'.

The price of the Captain's land is from two dollars to two and half per

acre ;

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. t53

acre ; at leafl, this is the price at which he offers it for fale. He de-
mands payment of the whole funi agreed tor within four years, or one
fourth of the purchafe- money every year. The intereffc to commence the
firft day after the fale. It may eafily be conceived, that Captain Wat-
worth is not a little jealous of the great character and influence of Cap-
tain Williamfon, who, from his terms of fale being far more moderate,
and other circumftances, cannot but have, and actually has, greatly the
advantage over him.

We learned, in this place, that the Geneffee flats are, every year
at the end of March, regularly inundated for four or five days by the
river of that name, which flows through them, and depofits on the
land a bed of flime, about two or three inches deep ; this ferves as an
excellent manure to the foil, and greatly promotes its fertility. In-
flances are known of one acre having produced fifty bumels of wheat ;
but the average crop is thirty bumels per acre. Very little of this land
has been vended yet ; as the proprietors do not care to part with it, until
an increafe of population mall have added considerably to its value. It is
very difficult to procure day-labourers here, and their wages are one dol-
lar per day. Maple -fugar, of which great quantities are iifually ob-
tained in this neighbourhood, has not anfwered this year, from the un-
common wetnefs of the feafon. It is fold for one milling a pound.
Many commodities, together with numerous droves of cattle, are ex-
ported hence annually into Upper Canada. The Captain, who keeps
*a fliop, imports his goods from Connecticut. They are brought in
waggons, drawn by oxen, which he afterwards fattens, and, by felling
them at Niagara, amply .indemnifies himfelf for any lofs he may fuftain
from the long carriage of his wares. The beef of the oxen thus fattened
is fold, at times, for one fhilling a pound.

After the Captain had left us, his nephew, a youth about fifteen years
<ot age, conducted us to the flats, or low grounds, which border on the
river GenefTee. They are a tracl: of land, about five or fix miles in
length and breadth, for the moft part fituate on the eaft-fide of the
.river; yet fome are on the other fide. Captain Watworth pofTeffes

X about

154 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

about fifteen or fixteen hundred acres ; of thefe fome are cultivated, but
much the greater number lie in grafs, which was as high as our horfes.
The flats belong, for the moft part, to the Indians ; but, as they arc
fituate within the limits of the territory lately ceded by Great Britain,
which extend to the river St. Lawrence, the State of Maflachufetts
claims the fupreme right to the property, and, in virtue of this right, has
fold to Meflrs. Phelps and Gorham the exclufive privilege of purchafing
thefe lands from the Indians, whenever they mall confent to part with
them. MefTrs. Phelps and Gorham have fold this privilege of purchafe to
Mr. Robert Morris, by whom it has been again fold to the Dutch Com-
pany ; this gentleman has alfo engaged to open a negociation with the
Indians, and to prevail upon them to relinquifh their right to a part at
leaft of thefe lands. Thus four different fets of puchafers have fuccecded
each other in regard to an object, concerning the fale of which the
confent of the true original owners has not yet been obtained ; and
four different contracts have been entered into, founded on the fup-
poiition, that it will be an eafy matter to remove the Indians from thefe
diftant corners into which they have retired. It is fome fatisfaclion,
however, to reflect, that the property of thefe lands cannot be actually
transferred without their confent ; but this, alas ! is very eafily obtained,
as their more polifhed neighbours well know. A little whiiky will bribe
their chieftains to give their confent to the largeft ceffions; and thefe rich
lands, this extenfive tract of territory, will be bartered away, with the
confent of all parties, for a few rings, a few handkerchiefs, fome barrels
f rum, and perhaps fome money, which the unfortunate natives know
not how to make ufe of, and which, by corrupting what little virtue is
yet left among them, will, ere long, render them completely wretched.
Yet, on the other hand, it will not be diiputed, that, if America were to
become more populous ; and if, in procefs of time, this immenfe region
could, by fair means, and on reafonable terms, be obtained from the
honeft and peaceful natives, and duly cultivated ; fuch a meafure would
doubtlefs promote the general good of America, and even conduce to the
intereils of mankind at large. At prefent, fcarcely the twentieth part of

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. l&f

this vaft continent is inhabited, unlefs nineteen uncultivated parts, ftill in
the poileffion of the Indians, be fo confidered. In a word, it may be
queftioned, whether, even in the cafe of all America being peopled with
European fettlers, the fignal benefits, to be derived from the cultivation of
fuch extenfive tracts of land, might not be obtained honeftly and honour-
ably, without driving the original inhabitants out of their pofi effions, or
^.t leaft without thus palpably impofmg upon them.

The hufbandry of the Indians is confined to the culture of a little
Indian corn, and fome potatoes. The produce of one or two acres is fully
fufficient for the maintenance of a whole family. Their extenfive
meadows they leave to fuch fettlers, as choofe to pafture their cattle on
the grafs, or to cut it for hay ; nay, they even fuffer them to be cultivated
and inclofed by frefh colonifts, who are continually removing weftward.
Property, whether real or perfonal, has with them no value ; and the mea-
dows, which at prefent only produce from four to five tuns of hay per acre,
would yield the richeft crops of various kinds of produce, and throw into
cultivation vaft quantities of marketable and ufeful commodities. To
reduce an acre of ground under fkilful cultivation, is, to confer a benefit
on the mafs of civilized fociety. This is an admitted principle of political
oeconomy. But here unfortunately it happens, that the ground, even
when taken out of the hands of the Indians, is not immediately reduced
to a proper ftate of cultivation. It frequently continues long in the hands
of mercenary fpeculators, who choofe neither to fell nor cultivate it, until
its value mall have been confiderably enhanced. As an ultimate confe-
quence of this conduct the poor Indians will be harrafTed, gradually ex-
pelled from their homes, and, in the end, either extirpated, or rendered
completely mifcrable.

In the courfe of our twelve miles excurfion to the flats we afcended two
eminences, from which we had a view over the whole plain ; one of thefe >
vailed Squawhill, lies nearer to Ontario, and the other, Mountmorris,
to Williamfburg. They both contain Indian villages. That fituate on
the former height confifts of about fifteen, and that feated on the latter,

X 2 of

J56 TRAVELS IN" NORTH AMERICA,

of about four or five fmall log-houfcs, {landing clofe together, roughly
built, and overlaid with bark. In the infide appears a fort of room not
floored ; on the fides they conftrucl fhelves, covered with deer- {kins,
which ferve as their cabins or fleeping places. In the midft of the room
appears the hearth, and over it is an opening in the roof to let out the
fmoke. Their ftores, confifting, for the moft part, of nothing but Indian
corn and the flefh of deer, lie carelefsly thrown together in a corner. One
of their huts not unfrequently contains two or three families.

As we pailed through their villages we faw fome w r omen employed in
works of hufbandry, but very few men. Among the Indians the hufbancl
does not work at all ; all laborious icrviccs are performed exclusively
by the wife. She not only tranfacls every part of domeftic bufmefsy
but cultivates the ground, cuts wood, carries loads, &c. The hufbancl
hunts, fifhes, fmokes, and drinks. Yet there are fome tribes, fuch as,
for inftance, the Tufcarora- Indians, among which the hufband works,
though occasionally and flightly. When 1 fpeak of Indian tribes o?
nations, I w T ifh to be understood as confining my obfervation to the fix
nations, commonly called the Iroquois, who inhabit the northern parts
of North America, to the fouth of Lake Ontario, namely, the Onaii-
dagas, Tufcarora, Oneidas, Cayugas, Seneca, and Mohawks. The Oneida-
nation excepted, which, northwards from New York , ftill inhabits the
banks of the lake that bears their name, all the other tribes have been,
gradually expatriated, and have decreafed in number ; every nation is now
divided into different branches ;, the families are difperfed abroad, and
whifky is rapidly thinning the number of thofe which yet remain. A
few years more, and thefe nations will difappear from the furface of the
earth, as civilized people approach !

Near the Geneflee, on this fide of that river, and about five miles below
the villages before- mentioned, ffonds another village belonging to Indians
of the Oneida nation. The men are here lefs flothful than among the
Seneca- Indians ; they are alfo tolerably ingenious and expert. It mould
be recorded highly to their honour, that the Indians, of whatever tribe or

nation,,

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 157

nation, are in general mild and peaceful, kindly officious in little fervicea
to the whites, and, on the whole, excellent neighbours. 1 for my part
am pretty well afTured, that, in all the numerous quarrels, which have
taken place between the different colonifts and the Indians, on the con-
fines of the United States, in ninety-nine inftances out of a hundred the
former have been the aggreflfors ; they are weak, and they are opprefTed^

In Mountmorris Mr. Morris poflefles a farm of about fixty acres, the
management of which he leaves entirely to an Irifhman, who arrived
here about two years ago> from New England. The wheat, rye, and In^-
dian corn are certainly excellent ; but the account this man gave us of
the nature and quality of the foil does not eorrefpond with Captain Wat-
worth's ilatemen-t. It yields, he fays, only twenty-five bulhels of wheat
per acre ; and as this perfon is not concerned in the felling, of land, I
judge his report to be much more d^ferving of credit, than the Captain's*
It muft be allowed, however, that the land here is uncommonly produc-
tive, that the flats form a very extenfive tracl; of ground, and that they
afford a fine profpecl, which cannot but be extremely pleafing even to
thofe, who have not been cloyed, as we were, with the eternal afpect of
forefts and woods. Mr. Morris, it mould feem, had eitablimed this farm
rather with an intention to exercife and fecure his right of property, than
from any immediate view r s of profitable culture. Its prefent occupier en-
joys the produce but of a very fmall portion of this vaft territory. Neither
his habitation, nor his efhablimment in general, imprefles you with, the
idea of a refpeclable farmer.

Returning from our excurfion, w r e pafled through Williamfburg, the
central point of Captain Williamfon's fettlements in this neighbourhood.
It is a village confifHng of about twelve houfes. The habitations are faid
to be very numerous in the adjacent country. Williamfburg is feated. on
the point, where Canaferaga creek difcharges itfelf into the river Ge-
neflee. This river, as well as the creek, which on our excurfion we were
feveral times obliged to ford, are fo clofely hemmed in, that frequently
it is very difficult to fcale their banks. The courfe of the river GeneiTee

J53 TRAVELS IN NQllTK AMERICA,

is rapid, and full of windings, its water alfo is generally rnu4dy, and
bad.

Three miles from Captain Watworth's habitation, a Frenchman, for-
merly an inhabitant of St. Domingo, refidcs, with his mulatto, on an
eflate of about tw&nty acres, and in a houfe only twelve feet fquare,
which he conftmcted himfelf, with the affiftance of his faithful fervant.
This Frenchman is named DE Boui, and is a native of Alface. A quar-
rel with a gentleman of confequence in his province, whom he accufecl
of having defrauded him of an inheritance, and a duel that enfued, in
which he wounded his antagonist, who was much older than himfelf,
compelled him, in the prime of youth, to quit his native country, from
the dread of a " lettre de cachet.'' The firft ftep, which he took after this,
was to enlift, as a private, in the regiment, which bears the name of the
Cape ; and in this fituation he foon evinced by his conduct, that he had
received a liberal education. He next obtained his difcharge ; and as he
.had been originally deftined for the profeffion of an engineer, his attain-
ments, which were very refpeclable, furnimed him with the means of
rendering himfelf ufeful to the colonifts. By degrees he rofe to the fitua-
tion of Grand Foyer (inlpector general of the high-roads) in St. Do-
mingo : he moreover cultivated a plantation, bequeathed to him by a
friend. He now poffeffed a good income, and had a fine profpecl: of ac-
quiring a very handfome property, when on a fudden the civil dnTen-
tions at the Cape broke out. Being forced to quit the town, he retired
to America, though in a very indifferent plight, with but little money,
few effects, and fbme bills on France. From motives of parlimony, he
proceeded to Hartford. Here Colonel Watworth, commiferating his
misfortunes, and his diftreffed fituation, made him an offer, that he
would endeavour to negociate his bills, in which he mould probably meet
with lefs difficulties than an emigrant Frenchman ; he at the fame
time made Mr.de Boui a temporary grant of a certain number of acres on
the river GenefTee, engaging to fupply him with the neccifary money and
iilores, and to render him every other affiftance in his power. The bills

were

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 15Q

were to ferve as a fecurity for all the previous difburfements. Such is the
outline of the hiftory of Mr. de Boui.

There are but few men, I fhould fuppofe, who do not feel tbemfelves
agreeably interefted by the fight of a countryman in a remote part of the
world. Unhappily the French revolution has in a gteat meafurc itirled
thefe amiable, natural feelings. If two Frenchmen now meet, they are,
in general, fo foured by political partialities, that they feel a mutual dif-
truft, if not averfion. Thanks to heaven, the revolution and its conco-
mitant evils have not yet infpired me with hatred to any individuals, much
lefs have they foured my feelings to mifanthropy. This is a comfort,
which I highly prize, and to which, even in my prefent fituation, I am in-
debted for moments, not altogether unaccompanied with pleafure. I, there-
fore, fmccrely fympathifed in Mr. de Boui's misfortunes. Meff. Blacons and
Dupetitthouars became acquainted with him laft year. Blacons was de-
puted by the reft of us to inform this hermk, a name, which he deferves as
well as any man living, of our intention to dine with him that day. De
Blacons' vifit, and our arrival, afforded him much pleafure and fatisfaction.
The fight of his countrymen was the more agreeable to him, as from a
peevifhnefs of temper, either contracted by prior misfortunes, or becaufe
he has been actually ill ufed, he is highly dhTatisfied with the Americans.
He is about forty years of age, poffeffed of a found underftanding, and en-
tertaining in his manners and converfation. From the natural generofity
of his own mind, his difguft at the fblfifhnefs of others, and his over-
nice feelings, he is a perfect mifanthrope ; a conftant gloom hangs upon
his fpirits. He ipeaks of Americans with a bitternefs, which can hardly
be justified when applied to individuals, but evidently degenerates into pre-
judice and injuftice when applied to the nation at large. He lives here,
fequeftcred from all the world, or at leaft with no other company, but
that of his mulatto Jofeph ; who has never left him, and is indeed his
friend, rather than hisTervarit. Jofeph acts in the different capacities of
cook, gardener, and hufbandman, for Mr. de Boui fows one or two acres
in the flats with Indian corn, half the produce of which he allows the
proprietor; he takes care of the fowls and pigs, and works at times for

the

160 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

the neighbours, that they may, in return, lend their oxen occasionally to
his mafter, and fupply him with eggs, milk, and other fuch like articles,
which, though trifles in themfelves, are of no fmall value in this folitude.
-Jofeph always appears buiy and cheerful : he is, in fact, a rare and af-
fecting inftance of the raoft faithful attachment to his mafter, who, in
return, fets a high and juft value on this refpectable fervant, without
whofe affiftance and fupport his philofophy would be of little avail. Mr.
de Boui is a man of extenfive reading, but the morofity of his tem-
per frequently diftorts his ideas. He hates mankind,, and therefore is
.conftantly fallen and wretched.

Dupetitthouars, who rejoined us there, and myfelf, {topped the night at
the habitation of this worthy gentleman, becaufe he feemed to wifh it.
MeiT. Guillemard and Blacons, however, took up their night- quarters in
Canawaga, with a view to get every thing ready for our journey to Fort
Erie. We paffed the afternoon and next morning in converfation with
our hoft, and in taking little walks, especially to a fmall Indian village
already mentioned, with which De Boui holds a fkequent intercourfe of
.civilities, fervices, and trade, and where at times, when there is a prefs of
imfmefs on his hands, he alfo hires labourers to weed his garden : thefe
are women, whom he pays at the rate of three millings a day. We left
-him, not without a high fenfe of gratitude for the kind and friendly re-
ception we had met with, nor did he feem altogether infenfible to a degree
of fatisfaction afforded by our company. He may perhaps prove, ere
long, a very valuable acceffion to the fettlement at Aiylum. May he live
there, if not happy, at leaft content 4 but it is greatly to be feared, that
the peeviihnefs of temper, which this unfortunate man has contracted,
will dry up every fource of promifed happinefs and comfort, which this
world might yet afford !

"Tuefday, the iQtJi of June.

The road from -Ontario to Canawaga is a good one for this country.
As ufual, it Leads through the midil of woods. Within a fpace of twelve

miles

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. l6l

miles we faw only one habitation. In this journey we difcovered two In-
dians lying under a tree ; though we had already feen a confiderable number
of them, yet this meeting had for us all the attraction of novelty, as we
found them in a ftatc of intoxication, which fcarcely manifefted the leaft
fymptom of life. One wore round his neck a long and heavy filver chain,
from which a large medallion of the fame metal was fufpended, on one
fide whereof was the image of George Wafhington, and on the other
the motto of Louis the Fourteenth nee pluribus impar, with a figure of
the fun, which was ufiially difplaycd with it in the French arms. This
Indian was, no doubt, the chieftain of a tribe ; we were, however, obliged
to leave his excellency in a ditch, out of which we made repeated efforts
to drag him, but in vain.

Canawaga is a fmall town ; Mr. Morris is the proprietor of the lands,
which he holds on the fame condition of procuring their ceilion from
the Indians, as he does all the other lands already mentioned. The price
of land here, which at firft was one milling and fix pence per acre, foori
rofe to three millings, and, by degrees, has been fo enhanced, that fmgle
acres, near the town, were lately fold for eight dollars. The habitations
here are yet but few, but among them is one of the beft inns w r e
have feen for fome time paft. Mr. BERRY keeps it ; a good, civil
man, but constantly inebriated. In common with feveral other in-
habitants of the town, he has bought land from the Indians, regard-
lefs of the prior right of purchafe, veiled in Mr. Morris by the Hate
of Maffachufetts. Without any wifh to vindicate this prior right, which,
in my judgment, confidered with refpect to the Indians, the original pro-
prietors of the foil, is an acl: of flagrant injuftice, I cannot help obferv-
ing, that this right, founded as it is on the laws of the land, cannot be
infringed by private individuals, without expofmg themfelves to the
hazard of being difpoflciled, and that in ftri6l juftice, of the lands, pur-
chafed in violation of this right. The perfons here alluded to, who have
bought land from the Indians, are perfectly aware of the flippery ground
on which they fhmd ; but hope, that as the affairs of Mr. Morris are rather
in a flate of derangement, he will not be able to make good his purchafe

Y of

l6'2 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

of the lands from the Indians ; hence they are led to conclude, that the
contract, by which he has transferred his right to the Dutch company,
muft eventually become void.

This whole track of land is, as yet, fo thin of inhabitants, that we
could not come at a right eftimate of the price of provifion, labourers'
wages, &c. Both labourers and provifion are equally fcarce ; and the
prices are, I prefume, not much different from thofe in the diftrifts 1
mentioned laft. The neighbourhood of the Indians occasions a frequent
intercourfe with them, for the purpofe of buying game, fifh, &c. and
though they are no ftrangers to the value of money, and appear fond of
it, yet fcarcely any bufmefs is tranfa&cd with them, unlefs in the w r ay of
barter. Whifky is their chief objecl: ; but old clothes, hats, knives, look-
ing-glafles, paints, &c. in fhort, almoft every commodity, the refufe of
European markets, will do for them ; and it may be advanced as a moral
certainty, that the white people can hardly become lofers in this traffic.
The Indians, indeed, to fpeak a well known truth, are conftantly cheated ;
their ignorance lays them open to fraud, and it is taken advantage of al-
moft ninety-nine times in a hundred, by thofe who have dealings with
them.

Before I quit this country, which is more or lefs inhabited by fubjefts
of the United States, I mall prefent the reader with a few general obfer-
vations on their manners and cufloms, which may ferve as a fupplement
to thofe I made on my arrival at Northumberland. Since that time \ve
have traverfed a country altogether new : the various fettlements, which
lie more or lefs clofely together, and are occupied by colonifts from all
parts of the world, afford nothing particularly worthy of obfervation.
It feems to be the chief objecl: of the inhabitants of this new country, to
raife the price of their labour as high as poffible, and then to fpend their
earnings in unneceffary trifles,, as fail as they can. From this prevailing
humour we may readily account for the flourifhing condition of the mops,
or ftores, as they are called. A labourer or his family goes to a mop,
to lay out fix-pence in ribbands, or two-pence in tobacco. Perhaps they
have four dollars in their pockets, and with thefe, fuch is the rage

for;

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 10*3

for (hop commodities, they purchafe articles, which, on entering the
{hop, they never intended to buy, and for which they have no
real occafion. Sometimes they purchafe on credit ; and the mop-
keeper, who clears, at leaft, one hundred per cent, has generally no
objection to felling upon thefe terms to perfons who are houfekeepers in
the neighbourhood, or who work there for any length of time. The
diihurfements of thofe, who, in this new country, undertake to clear
large tracks of ground, and at the fame time keep a ftore, are, there-
fore inconfiderable, efpecially in regard to labourers' wages, as the
money cleared in the mop quickly brings back all that is expended in
labour for days, weeks, and months together. The ftorekeepers too
frequently take advantage of the credulity, eafinefs of temper, and ig-
norance of the half-favage fort of people, who inhabit the back fettle-
ments, and thefe in return abufe the credulity, eafinefs, and ignorance
of the poor Indians. In fadt the conduct of mankind at large is in
general nothing more than a chain of frauds and impofitions, only
fomewhat lefs barefaced than thofe of the ftorekeepers in the new
American dominions.

I mail add a word or two on the methods pra&ifed by them in the
management of thefe new fettlements. When a family have come to"/"
a refolution to fettle in this country, the hufband, the latter end
of fummer, repairs to the fpot where the fettlement is to be made.
The fir ft thing he does is to cut down the fmall trees on one or two
acres ; he next barks the larger trees, and then fows a little rye or

wheat. Of the wodd he has felled, he conftrufts a fmall houfe, and

makes fuitable fences around it ; a labour, which may be performed in
about a month's time. He then returns to his former habitation ; and,
at the beginning of fpring, he brings his family and the beft of his
cattle to the new fettlement. His cows coft him little, being turned
into the woods to graze : he then fmimes his houfe, plants pota-
toes, fows Indian corn, and thus is enabled to provide for the firft
year's maintenance. While thus employed, he is at the fame time

Y 2 clearing

lG4 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

clearing more ground, burning the trees he has already felled, and, as far
as may be, even thofe which he has barked. By this procefs the roots of
the bufhes are in a great meafure deflroyed ; yet they require to be
more carefully grubbed out of land, which is to be thoroughly cleared.
The aflies afford a very ufeful manure, and, in the opinion of the beft
judges, are employed this way to much greater advantage, than when
converted into pot-am, the making of which is, with the new fettlers,
merely the refult of neceffity ; for if a faw-mill be at hand, the large
trees can be conveyed .thither by oxen. Thus, within the fpace of
twelve months, a man may clear fifteen acres ; and few families cul-
tivate more than thirty. The barked trees are left {landing for a
longer or ihorter time, according to circumllances, viz. the fpecies of
the tree, the nature of the foil, and the degree of the wetnefs of the
feafon. The hemlock-fir will {land eight or nine years, the oak four
or five, the maple three or four, and trees, all the branches of which
have been burnt off, feldom fall before this time. The flumps of the
felled trees, generally two or three feet high above the ground, hardly
rot fooner than the barked trees, which have been left {landing on
the lands. The dwellings of new fettlers are commonly at firfl fet
up in a very flight manner ; they confifl of huts, the roofs and walls
of which are made of bark, and in which the hufband, wife, and
children pafs the winter, wrapped up in blankets. They alfo fre-
quently conflrucT: houfes of trees laid upon each other; the interfaces
of which are either filled up with loam, or left open, according as
there is more or lefs time to fill them up. In fuch buildings as
have attained to fome degree of perfection, there is a chimney of brick
or clay ; but very often there is only an aperture in the roof to let
out the fmoke, and the fire is made and replenifhed with the trunks
of trees. At a little diflance from the houfe {lands a fmall oven, built
fometimes of brick, but more frequently of clay, and a little farther
off appears a fmall med, like a fen try- box, which is the neceffary, or
privy.

Salt

BY THE DUKE DE LA. ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. iQj

Salt pork and beef arc the ufual food of the new fettlers ; their drink
is water and whiiky, yet there are few families unprovided with coffee
and chocolate.

We mould not omit to obferve, that the axe, of which the Americans
make ufe for felling trees, has a fhorter handle than that of European
wood-cutters. Not only the Americans, but Irifh and German workmen
have aflfured me, that they can do more work with this fhort handled
axe, than with the European. The blade likewife is not fo large as that
of the latter. Mod of thefe axes are made in America, but confider-
able numbers are alfo imported from Germany.

Though fome or mod: of the particulars above detailed may be found
in works, which treat of the inland or back parts of America, yet I
judge them not unworthy of a place in this journal.

Refpe&ing the tenets or obfervances of religion, it mould feem that
little room is left for a due attention to either, among the inhabitants
of Pennfylvania and other parts of Geneffee. In the towns, as well as
in all parts of the country that are in any degree populous, there are,
indeed, every where places appropriated to religious wormip ; but, un-
lefs I am greatly miftaken, religion is generally confidered rather as a
political engine than a way to falvation. In the new fettlements you
meet frequently with religious books v but they contain the peculiar ef-
fufions of different fe&s, rather than the iimple morality of icriptural
religion. Prayer-books, with other devotional exercifes of that clefcrip-
tion, are chiefly found among the rigid Methodifts, or fanatic Scotch
Prefbyterians. Yet the bitternefs and fanaticifm of thefe fe<5ts are
rapidly wearing away in thefe forefts. Chiefly taken up with clear-
ing the ground, and anticipating in imagination the beneficial refults
of their labour, they foon forget all other concerns.

The colonifts, who arrive from New England, are, upon the
whole, more religious than any of the other inhabitants. They make
a point of building churches, and providing preachers, as foon as
circumftances enable them to do fo. Moft of thefe religionifls fettle*in

the

lG4 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

clearing more ground, burning the trees he has already felled, and, as far
as may be, even thofe which he has barked. By this procefs the roots of
the bufhes are in a great meafure deflroyed ; yet they require to be
more carefully grubbed out of land, which is to be thoroughly cleared.
The afhes afford a very ufeful manure, and, in the opinion of the beft
judges, are employed this way to much greater advantage, than when
converted into pot-am, the making of which is, with the new fettlers,
merely the refult of neceffity ; for if a faw-mill be at hand, the large
trees can be conveyed thither by oxen. Thus, within the fpace of
twelve months, a man may clear fifteen acres ; and few families cul-
tivate more than thirty. The barked trees are left (landing for a
longer or fhorter time, according to circumilances, viz. the fpecies of
the tree, the nature of the foil, and the degree of the wetnefs of the
feafon. The hemlock-fir will (land eight or nine years, the oak four
or five, the maple three or four, and trees, all the branches of which
have been burnt off, feldom fall before this time. The flumps of the
felled trees, generally two or three feet high above the ground, hardly
rot fooner than the barked trees, which have been left (landing on
the lands. The dwellings of new fettlers are commonly at firfl fet
up in a very flight manner ; they confifl of huts, the roofs and walls
of which are made of bark, and in which the hufband, wife, and
children pafs the winter, wrapped up in blankets. They alfo fre-
quently conftruct houfes of trees laid upon each other; the interfaces
of which are either filled up with loam, or left open, according as
there is more or lefs time to fill them up. In fuch buildings as
have attained to fome degree of perfection, there is a chimney of brick
or clay ; but very often there is only an aperture in the roof to let
out the fmoke, and the fire is made and replenifhed with the trunks
of trees. At a little diflance from the houfe (lands a fmall oven, built
fometimes of brick, but more frequently of clay, and a little farther
off appears a fmall med, like a fentry-box, which is the necefTary, or
privy.

Salt

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

Salt pork and beef arc the ufual food of the new iettlers ; their drink
is water and vvhilky, yet there are few families unprovided with coffee
and chocolate.

We fhould not omit to obferve, that the axe, of which the Americans
make ufe for felling trees, has a fhorter handle than that of European
wood-cutters. Not only the Americans, but Irifh and German workmen
have allured me, that they can do more work with this fhort handled
axe, than with the European. The blade likewife is not fo large as that
of the latter. Moft of thefe axes are made in America, but confider-
able numbers are alfo imported from Germany.

Though fome or moft of the particulars above detailed may be found
in works, which treat of the inland or back parts of America, yet I
judge them not unworthy of a place in this journal.

Refpe&ing the tenets or obfervances of religion, it mould feem that
little room is left for a due attention to either, among the inhabitants
of Pennfylvania and other parts of Geneffee. In the towns, as well as
in all parts of the country that are in any degree populous, there are,
indeed, every where places appropriated to religious wormip ; but, un-
lefs I am greatly miftaken, religion is generally confidered rather as a
political engine than a way to falvation. In the new fettlements you
meet frequently with religious books t but they contain the peculiar ef-
fufions of different fefts, rather than the limple morality of fcriptural
religion. Prayer-books, with other devotional exercifes of that defcrip-
tion, are chiefly found among the rigid Methodifts, or fanatic Scotch
Preibyterians. Yet the bitternefs and fanatieifm of thefe fedls are
rapidly wearing away in thefe forefts. Chiefly taken up with clear-
ing the ground, and anticipating in imagination the beneficial refults
of their labour, they foon forget all other concerns.

the

TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

the upper diftricl: of GeneiTee, and fpeak with contempt of the fettle-
ments on the Sufquehannah, and in the neighbourhood of Tioga, where
the inhabitants, far from having places of worship, fcarcely ever men-
tion the name of God. At the fame time it mufl be admitted, that the
planters, who come from New England, are purer in their morals thau
any of the reft; and that they are not only remarkably induftrious,
but alfo the moft expert agricultures and workmen.

As to the fertility of the country in natural productions, it is
very great indeed. Jn many parts, the trees are of a prodigious
iize and thicknefs. It is remarkable, that the largcft trees feldom
flrike their roots deeper than about four or five inches into the
ground ; this was at leaft the cafe with all thole which had been over-
turned by the winds, and lay near the road. The thickets are frequently
fo clofe, that, for feveral miles together, they bear the appearance of
one large tree, under which grafs is growing in thick tufts and
clufters. Fern, a fight rare in the neighbourhood of Philadelphia, is
very frequently in the back fettlements. Shrubs of every defcription,
and flowers of various forms and hues adorn the woods and pleafe the
eye with their beautiful appearance, but do not fo much regale the tra-
veller with their fragrance. They more or lefs referable European
plants ; but are in general of different fpecies.

Among the great variety of infects and flics feen here, which alone
would furnifh abundant matter of enquiry for the curious naturalift,
luminous worms are fo very numerous, as frequently to difFufe by
night a brightnefs, which is really aftoniming.

The town of Canawaga is fituated on the river Geneffee, the courfe
of which we have followed without deviation ever fince we left Ontario.
By the Indians this river is called Camoufiagon. We much regret,
that we did not fee the three falls of this river, which are but half a
quarter of a mile diftant from each other ; the firft is one hundred, the
fecond thirty, and the third feventy feet high ; they are all two hun-
xffed and fifty feet in breadth. This river, which empties itfelf into

Lake

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

Lake Ontario, previoufly forms a very fmall lake of uncommon
depth, which alfo is difcharged into Lake Ontario by a narrow chan-
nel, not very deep. The appearance of thete falls is faid to be ex-
tremely grand and beautiful ; we felt a ftrong inclination to vifit them ;
but Mr. Blacons expreiling an earned: defire to haften his return to
Afylum, and to fee the Niagara, we lacrifked to his wifhes our own
euriofity with refpcct to the falls of the river Geneffee..

Wednefday, the IJth of June.

After remaining half a day at Canawaga, we at length fet out,-
early in the morning, to-traverfe the defarts, as they are called. The
guide, procured by Mr. Chipping, as already mentioned, had been-
waiting for us two days. This man, a native of Canada, who, accord-
ing to falfe reports, had adopted the manners and cuftoms of the Indi-
ans, from love for zfquaw (the term for an Indian woman) of whom he
was exceffively fond, did not, on a nearer acquaintance with him, anfwer
any of the romantic, or at leaft extraordinary ideas, we had been led to-
form of him. During the American war, he had ferved for lome time
in an Engliih regiment in Canada ; but having found an opportunity to>
defect, he fettled in the American dominions on the banks of the Ge-
nefTee. He has been enabled to fave a little money by means of a fmalli
trade, which he carried on, and efpecially by felling whifky to the In-
dians ; after this he became acquainted with an Indian girl,, tolerably
handfome, whom he married, after fhe had borne him feveral children ;:
that is to fay, he declared her his wife in the Indian manner; an obli-
gation, however, which binds him no longer than he himfelf choofes..
According to his own account, he poflefles a fmall eftate in the diftricT:
of Geneflee, and another much larger in Tonowante (an Indian village
equally diflant from Niagara and Canawaga), which PONDRIT (our
guide) purchafed of the Indians for fome gallons of whifky, and which
he can enlarge, at pleafure, as every one there is at liberty to appropri-
ate to himfelf any quantity of land he thinks proper. This man, as far

l6S TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

as we could judge, appears to have fettled among the Indians from
motives not the moft praife-worthy, viz. lazinefs and indolence ; he
would rather, it feems, let his wife work, than do fo himfelf, gain
money without care or toil, and by his fuperior knowledge overreach
the Indians in the fmall trade he carries on with therrh In other re-
fpects he is a free, jovial fellow enough, proud, good-humoured, art-
ful under the appearance of aukwardnefs ; and in brief, not a little like
many of the French peafants, who, after having ferved fome time in
a regiment, return to their native village with a tolerable flock of felf-
confidence and ailurance, which, if not blended with a due regard to
confcience and morals, frequently degenerates into impudence, and
fometimes draws them in the end, into a licentious and reftlefs way of
life. Under the guidance of this Pondrit, who, by the by, was not even
drelTed as an Indian, we fet out on our journey. He led a horfe that
belonged to him, and was loaded with our ftores, which Indian guides
generally trudge with on their backs.

About a mile and a half from Canawaga, ftands a fmall village of
the Seneca Indians, through which we palled, confiding of only three
or four houfes. We found there again a handfome vounsc man, who

O / O '

had vifited us the night before in Canawaga. It was obfervable, that
thefe Indians (hewed a ftrong attachment to us as Frenchmen, repeat-
edly alluring us, that the remembrance of our nation was peculiarly
dear to them ; we in return regaled them plentifully with rum. The
young man, who was more intoxicated than his comrades, was
feized every now and then with fits of madnefs, which might have
proved fatal to himfelf or thofe about him, but for the careful attend-
ance of a young fquaw, who, partly by menaces, and partly by careiTes,
got him out of the inn, caufed his arms to be tied by his comrades,
and carried him to the banks of the river, where, lefs difturbed, me
continued her attendance, until (lie had foothed his rage, though he
was not perfectly reftored to his fenfes. An Indian wafhed the face
and head of his inebriated comrade, by fpouting water upon him, which

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOUK.T.

he took into his mouth, and at the fame time by rubbing him with his
hand. The intoxicated young man, though not quite fober, was at
length, however, fb far recovered, as to be let on his legs. A boat
was waiting to carry him acrofs the river, when, on a fudden, he broke
from the hands of his attendants, and precipitated himfelf with great
violence into the river. A moment after he came up again, and we
faw him fwimming towards the oppofite bank. The indefatigable
young woman then fprang alone into the boat, and rowed up to her
charge, overtook him, and feized his hand to make him flep into the
boat. But he would not enter, but dived again, rifing up in different
places ; fo that to all appearance he was in no little danger, confidering
the ftate he was in, of being drowned. The young fquaw followed
him with her boat, called on him feveral times very kindly, did not
ceafe a moment to follow him, with her eyes conftantly fixed on him,
or on the fpot where me thought he was likely to appear again ; for he
was as frequently under as above water. At lafl (he grafped him again,
and fo tenacioufly as to retain her hold. This impreffive fcene lafted
about two hours, during which time the uneafinefs, care, and endear-
ments of the young woman, were inceffantly manifefted, and infpired
us with mingled emotions of furprife, admiration, and efteem. She
was tolerably handfome, and a fifter of the young man. It is hardly
poffible to mew more fympathy, or more fincere, tender, and unwearied
affection, than was evinced by this poor fquaw, as long as her intoxi-
cated brother was in danger ; and all this too in a manner fo fweet and
engaging, as it is not in the power of man poffibly to do. This fcene
imprinted in ftill deeper characters on my mind the idea, which I
have conftantly entertained, of the great fuperiority of women above
men in every thing, relative to affections of every fort. He, who
never experienced the friendmip of a woman, knows not half the
eharms and delights of friendmip. Men, undoubtedly, are capable of
making great facrifkes, which I certainly fhould be the laft to dif-
own ; indebted as I am for the prefervation of my life, to the
generous and ardent attachment of two friends. May they, iince a

Z more

1 /O TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

more explicit teftimony of my gratitude might perhaps endanger their
fafety and welfare, recognize in thefe lines the grateful ientiments,
which fill my bofom, and which (hall not ceafe but with my exiftence,
though I fhould never have the happinefs of perfonally exprefling to
them the tribute of my thanks. But while a woman is capable of the
fame attachment and facrifices, while a female friend will chearfully
meet the fame dangers as men, me poflefles befides the art of embellifh-
ing and brightening the faddefb moments of our life, by unutterable
fweetnefs of temper, conftant care, and unwearied attendance on her
friend ; (he can fympathize in his fufferings, mingle with his pleafures,
and comprehend and divine all his projects ; me can pour balm on his
wounded fenfibility, raife his dejected fpirits, unburden him of the load
of forrow, and thus reconcile him to himfelf. Weir can fhe foften the
harflinefs of a<3vice, which (he has the courage to offer at a feafonable
interval, and can infpire a boundlefs confidence, without creating pain,
or caufing exertion. She bids defiance to obftacles, is difcouraged by
no accidents, not even by abfence itfelf. In fhort, female friendship
is a divine feeling, and the fweeteft charm and comforter of life r
when deprived of it by misfortune, the bare remembrance of it will
i ftill afford us moments of refined pleafure.

A journey through uninterrupted forefls offers but little matter
either for fpeculation or remark. The woods are, in general, not
clofe,. but ftand on a fruitful foil. Afoot-path, tolerably good, upon
the whole, but in fome places very miry,, winds through them over
a level ground, that rifes but feldom into gentle fwells. After a-
ride of twelve hours, in which we crofTed feveral large creeks, WQ
arrived at the Plain, where we determined to take up our lodg-
ings- for the night. Big Plain is about thirty-eight miles diftant from
Canawaga. We breakfafled at Buttermilk Fall, and dined on the
bank of the creek of Tanawago, which is, feveral times, either ap-
proached, or eroded, in this line of travelling; For both thefe meals
our appetites were fo keen, that we, perhaps, never ate any thing with.
a better relim. But, this was not the cafe with our fupper. The ma-

rangouins,.

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

rangouins, of which we had heard fuch frightful accounts, hut from
v/hich we had hitherto fuffered but little, began now to torment us.
We were near a brook, for it is neceflfary to keep within a little dif-
tance from water, if between arrival and departure it is intended to
breakfaft, fup, and water the horfes. The fire and tobacco fmoke
were not fufficient to keep off the offenfive fwarms of marangouins,
mufquitoes, wafps and gnats ; nor did the veils of gauze, provided by
Mr. Guillemard, flicker us from their pungent flings. Thefe innu-
merable fmall blood-fucking infects are a very great annoyance, and
though killed by thoufands, they feem to encreafe in proportion as they
are destroyed. It is indeed impoffible to form an adequate idea of the
torment and trouble they occafion, without having felt it.

Two Americans, who arrived from Buffalo Creek, with two
horfes, loaded with furs, fliarcd our fire and our moleftation, but not
our fufferings. The next day (Thurfday) at four o'clock in the
morning, the Americans having found their horfes, proceeded on
their journey ; while our horfes, which, in fpite of our entreaties,
Mr. Guillemard's fervant had not coupled, were not to be found,
having run back part of the way we came. It happened, however,
very fortunately, that a bell, which I had faftened to my horfe, hav-
ing in the night indicated to our guide the courfe they purfued, he
traced them before the break of day, overtook them at a di fiance of
fifteen miles, and brought them back about eleven o'clock in the morn-
ing. His uncommon zeal to ferve us, joined to his fuccefsfulalertnefs,
infpired us with as much admiration, as we felt pleafure, to fee our
horfes fafe returned.

The two Americans, who left us in the morning, belonged to Bof-
ton ; they make, it feems, the journey to Buffalo Creek, five or fix
times every year, to barter for furs with the Indians ; they carry on
this trade jointly with three or four other fmall companies ; and we
learned that, on the whole about twenty thoufand dollars .are annually
circulated in this way, the fhare of thefe two amounting to eighteen
hundred or two thoufand dollars.

Z 2 It

172 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

It was too late to indulge the hope of reaching Buffalo Creek before
the fall of night. Our journey muft, therefore, take us up two days
longer, although we had provifion only fufficient for one. In thefc
circumftances we refolved to take the road to Tonowante, the refl-
dence of one PONDRIT, which determination, though it occafioned a
circuit of ten or twelve miles, yet fecured to us all the certain ad-
vantage of obtaining frem provifion, which, by Pondrit's account,
was in great abundance in that place. But Pondrit is as frivolous a
prattler as he is a good pedeflrian ; we found no provifion, nor was
there the leaft profpedl: of procuring viands of any fort in the hut
of this demi-Indian. We were fain to be content with a little
rum and two wet indigeftible cakes of Indian corn, prepared by
Mrs. PONDRIT, and were, moreover, under the neceffity of waiting a
whole hour for the lady's return, who, on our arrival was engaged in
cultivating the grounds of her hufband. Befides this wretched repair.,
we got a little Indian corn for our horfes. Mr. Guillemard, whofe
limbs were fwoln in confequence of the flings of the mufquitoes, fan-
cied he was ill, and determined to remain that night at Tonowante.
We left him under the care of the fquaw Pondrit ; and Mr. de Blacons,
Dupetitthouars, and myfelf, fet out, with our guide, to purfue our
journey.

Tonowante, which we have jufl left, confifts of fifteen houfes or
wigwams, built on the zig-zag windings of the river of the fame name.
The foil is marfhy, yet good. However defirable it would have been,
to fhortcn our next day's long journey by proceeding ten miles further
this night, yet the remembrance, and the ftill-exifting fenfation of the
mufquito-ftings of lafl night, deterred us from adopting this meafure,
and we halted, therefore, half an hour before fun-fet, to gain the ne-
ceflary time for making arrangements more likely to keep thefe in-
fects off. A fmall Indian camp, which we found in the woods near
Small-fall, was chofen for our night-quarters, not with (landing dreadful
fwarms of mufquitoes and fmall flies, perhaps even more troublefome
than the former, were buzzing about us. We furrounded this little

place

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LlANCOURT.

place of refuge, to the windward, with fires, which we kept up with
dry leaves and rotten wood. The wind driving the fmoke through our
camp, the mufquitoes could not exift there. After having coupled
our horfes, tied them to trees near us, -and thus prevented the danger
of lofing them, we procured fome water, made a mefs of a few cakes of
portable foup, which we had remaining, and being protected from the
attacks of our enemies, we partook of our cakes and remaining ham
with great fat is fa 61 ion, and being farther comforted by a few fegars,
we palled a very pleafing night ; I, on my part, at leaft, did not
awake from nine o'clock at night till half paft three in the morning,
the time when we were obliged to prepare for our departure. What
an excellent remedy, or, at leaft, what a palliative for the fufFerings of
the head and the heart, is travelling. Alternate wearinefs and reft
leave no room for any train of ideas, and every thing confpires to ren-
der us as happy as if our fufFerings were ended.

Before I clofe the hiftory of the day, I muft obfer ve, that in the
morning we met with a large rattle-fnake, on our way to Tonowante.
She was awake, bent backwards, and her head ere6t ; in ftiort, me was
in the attitude, in which thefe reptiles dart to bite. Our guide noticed
her at the fmall diftance of two paces, and Cartouche had approached
her within half a pace. We ftopped ; I called my dog. The afpeft of
our horfes, our dogs and ourfelves, who furrounded her fo clofely, did
not difturb her ; and Pondrit, who had cut a ftick, was at full liberty
to choofe the fpot where he would apply his blow. This {hake was up-
wards of four and half feet in length, beautifully black, with rings of
a bright, golden yellow, and fixteen rattles. I relate this trifling in-
cident, to fhew how little dangerous thefe animals in general are, the
accounts of which, in Europe, fo greatly alarm all, who are preparing
to go to America. We continued upwards of five minutes withi* &
fmaller diftance from her than her own length- The dog ^'moft
touched her ; me was awake, and yet mewed no ibrt of malignity..
Since I have travelled fo much in forefts, I have met with great num-
ber

174 TRAVELS IX NORTH AMERICA,

ber of rattle- fnakes, killed fome with my own hand, and, notwith-
ftanding, have never yet received the leafl injury.

Friday, the igth of June.

For thefe two days paft the roads have heen truly execrable, full of
deep holes, earth-falls, and thick-fet bufhes. You are obliged, at once,
to beware of the branches of trees, which tear your face or throw you
down, to felect the fpot for the horfe to tread on, to give it the necef-
fary aid when it paffes a difficult place, and to take care not to crufh
your knee or leg againft a trunk or ftone, which even with the utmoft
precaution cannot be always avoided, and frequently caufes a very pain-
ful fenfation. By the account of our guide we were this day to enter
better roads ; and yet, a level tract of about feven or eight miles ex-
cepted, thefe were even worfe than the former.

Being defirous of feeing a large Indian fettlement, and having learned
that Buffalo Creek is the large/I in this neighbourhood, we turned that
way, left the foot-path which leads ftraight to Fort Erie, and ftruck
into another, which is the word I have yet feen. We breakfafted
twelve miles from the fpot where we had pafled the night, and finimed
the remainder of our {lores in Buffalo Town. You reach Creek
Buffalo twelve or fifteen miles before you come to the village. The
fource of this creek, which is very narrow on the fpot where you fee
it firft, is fifteen miles farther up the country. Yet it confiderably en-
larges its breadth, and is upwards of a hundred yards broad, where it
difcharges itfelf into the river. You muft ford it between a hamlet
inhabited by the Cayuga nation and the village of Buffalo, where it is
about forty yards in breadth, but its bed is fo confined and miry, that
T ve were fcarcely able to work our way out of it.

^he village of Buffalo is inhabited by the Seneca-Indians. The chief
of thibnation is BROTHERFARMER, a man generally refpected by all the
tribes as ^ great warrior and ftatefman, and for this r-eafon much

courted

Bt THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 175

courted both by Engliftv and American agents. Buffalo is the chief
place of the Seneca nation. Inftead of eighty houfes, of which we had
been told this village confided, we found only about forty. The reft
ftand-on the banks of the creek farther up or downwards, and thus
people an extent of leveral miles. The village is fituated on a plain,
the foil of which, to judge from the grafs it produces, is extremely
fertile. We faw Indians cutting the grafs with their knives. -.Some
families keep cows, and others even horfes. There were fome fine
oxen to be fold in the village. All the commodities being coniidered
as the produce of the labours of the wives, they alone difpofe of them
at pleafure. They are looked upon as the fole proprietors. It is with
them that every bargain is made, all the money, even the houfes in
which they live, belong to them ; the hufbands have nothing but them
gun, their tomahawk (a fmall axe, and at the fame time their pipe),
and the fcalps fevered from the fkulls of the enemies they have (lain,
and which in greater or lefs number form the decoration of the dwel-
lings of all Indian warriors. More property they do not want.

The dignity of a chieftain is, in general, hereditary among the In-
dians ; though fome are alfo appointed by election. The fons of the
chieftains, however, do not fucceed, but thofe of the female chiefs.
For the wives preferve this right of fucceilion in their families, . and
tranfmit it to their defcendants. Yet thefe Indian queens cultivate
their fields with the fpade in their hand. Though they have oxen to
fell, it has hitherto not occurred to them, to yoke thefe animals to the
plough. I have already obferved, that a fmall field of Indian corn fuf-
fices for the wants of a family. There is, at times, another planted
with potatoes ; but, in general, thefe are planted between the rows of
Indian corn. ,

The fields are moftly irregular pieces of land taken from the com-
mon ; they are not inclofed, being more effectually guarded by an uni--
verfal honefty, which never deceives. The cattle, which conftantly
remain in the woods, do no damage to the crops. The fields, culti*
vated by the Indians, have, in general, a more luxuriant appearance than

others,

176 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

others, from the manner in which they are cultivated. Being better
tilled, and kept conftantly free from weeds, they cannot but pro-
duce heavier crops, which is actually the cafe. The Indian huts in.
Buffalo are not fo bad as others I have feen, but equally unclean and
filthy.

Our guide conducted us to a family, in which he faid a demi-French
woman lived, which, however, was not the fact. On entering the ha-
bitation, we found the landlord engaged in bleeding himfelf in the foot.
He faid he fuffered from pains in the bowels, and placed great confi-
dence in this remedy, which he prefcribed and applied himfelf. Two
leaves of fage ferved for a comprefs, and an old garter for a bandage ;
he looked about for his tomahawk to fmoke during the application of
this remedy. One or two other families live in the fame hut. .The
hufbands, fathers, and brothers were fitting before the door ; the wo-
men were in the fields ; we were compelled to wait their return, to
learn whether they had any eggs or milk. When they came home,
we found that they had none. They gave us, however, butter-milk,
and very good butter. During the two hours we pafled among them,
nothing particular occurred. There is but little exprerlion in their faces,
little cheerfulnefs, and little fagacity. They were extremely curious,
as every one would be, who has feen nothing. They laid hold of our
watches, ourcompafs, our pencils, and bridles, viewed them with much
attention, yet without the leafl mark of aftonifliment or fatisfa<lion ;
but remained as cold and unconcerned as three-fourths of the American
country-people remain on fimilar occafions, though they are as curious
as the Indians.

I had bought at Philadelphia a great quantity of trifles, with a view
of diftributing them among thefe people, who, I knew, are exceffively
fond of them. With thefe trifles we paid what fervices they had
rendered us ; but I diftributed my fineries far beyond their amount ;
men and women feemed to receive them with aftonifhment rather than
pleafure. The young girls appeared more pleafed with them than the
reft. Three or tour of thefe were very handfome ; and I fancied that

I could

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULD LIAKCOURT. 177

I could obferve in their manners a certain modefty, which I love to fee
blended with beauty.

The Indians feem to occupy themfelves much with their children ;
they are extremely fond of them during their childhood, and their af-
fectionate attachment frequently lafts far beyond that tender age. Suck-
ing children are generally fufpended in a baiket, faftened to the ceiling
by long ropes, and thus rocked. When the mother goes on a journey,
or to work, the babe is put into a fort of portable cradle, the back and
lower part of which are made of wood ; it is laced before with flraps of
cloth, with which the child can be tied as fail as they pleafe. This fort
of cradle is carried by means of a ftrap, tied around the forehead of the
mother. In this manner the Indians generally carry all their burthens.

Few Indians live to be very old. They who grow old and infirm
are put to death by their children, who confider this act as a duty they
are bound to perform, in order to fave their parents from the miferiesof
old age. However, they do not always fulfil this duty. Let this bar-
barous cuftom be fairly confidered, and it will be found in fome man-
ner confiftent with reafon ; for of what ufe and value is life, when no-
thing can be expected but forrow and fufTerings ?

Death is, with the Indians, no object of terror; and the relations of
the deceafed orieve but little for their lofs. Some howlin^s at the bu-

o o

rial are the only figns or expreffiohs of their grief, while feveral days
before and after the interment are fpent in feafting and dancing. The
entire property of the deceafed is frequently fpent in thus eating, drink-
ing, and rioting to his honour.

The imperfect civilization, which the Indian nations, we have feen,
owe to their conftant intercourfe with white people, has altered their
original manners, which it would be peculiarly interesting to obferve.
Whifky renders them ftupid ; and whifky is known and fought after
by all the Indians, who are engaged in the fur trade with white people.
Europe has inflicted, and will ever inflict ib many evils on every coun-
try difcovered by her, that it is neceffary to travel as Mr. MACKENZIE
has done, beyond the known tribes, in order to trace the original man-

A a ners

178 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

ners of the Indian nations; yet Mr. Mackenzie himfelf diftributed
whiiky as he went along.

I fliall fubjoin here a few obfervations concerning the Indians, which,
though they may not be perfectly new, will yet form a {ketch, not al-
together uninterefting to Europeans, and which I fliall be able to im-
prove from other accounts, efpecially from the narrative of the cap-
tivity of one of my friends belonging to Virginia, which I intend to in-
troduce in the fequel. But previoufly to my entering on this fubjecl,
I muft obferve, that all the Indians we faw nfed every means of fliew-
ing us particular kindnefs, on account of our being Frenchmen, whom,
they told us, they love very much, knowing that their people have al-
ways been kindly treated by them, and particularly without any fort of
contemptuous infolence. On this account they constantly called. us
their fathers.

Age is fo much honoured by the Indians, that in their language age
and wifdom are fynonimous terms.

Notwithflanding this high eftimation, in which old age is every where
held, and the great refpecl: enjoyed by their chieftains in time of peace,
and by their leaders in time of war, health, dexterity, and courage alone
obtain di functions among the Indians. Although from difpofition and
habit they are independent of each other, in all the concerns of life, yet
they are never wanting in obedience to their chiefs and leaders.

Hofpitality is with them a duty, which it would be a crime not to
obferve, and which they never fail to pra&ife. They confider revenge
as a duty equally facred. They conceal their vindictive views as long
as they know they cannot be gratified. But neither the longeil
period of time, nor the greateft obftacles, ever flifle in them the im-
perious pafiion for revenge. Although theft is very common among
them, and more fo among the women than the men, yet the thief,
caught in the fact, is compelled to reftore the property he ftole ; and in
cafe of a violent robbery, the conjurors are confulted, who condemn the
robber to death.

Homicide is atoned for by a fum of money, the amount of which is

paid

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 17Q

paid in a. fort of fhells, called wampum, by which the price of all
commodities is meafured and adjufted. An offender, who cannot raife
this ranfom, is delivered over to the family of the deceafed, that they
may take their revenge on him. Deliberate murder is feldom com-
mitted ; manflaughter perpetrated in drunken quarrels is more frequent.
Yet the fame indulgence, in regard to homicide and theft, is not (hewn
by all the Indian nations. I have learnt from Colonel BRANT, chieftain
of the Mohawks, that among the Six Nations, who ftill occupy lands
near the lakes in the dominion of the United States, and in Canada, and
to whom the Mohawks and Seneca Indians belong ; every Indian, who
has killed or robbed another, muft inevitably fuffer death. The mur-
derer is generally put to death by the relations of the perfon murdered.
But every Indian belonging to the nation has a right to kill him, as
foon as the crime is known. It frequently happens, that the offender,
far from making the leall refinance, voluntarily furrendcrs himfelf up
for execution.

Among fome nations the wife takes revenge of an unfaithful huf-
band, by a fimilar conduct on her own part ; and the hufband, in the

fame circumftances, has recourfe to the fame means of revenge. Among

o o

fome the hufband puts the wife to death, if he catch her in jlagranti
delifto. The greateft crime among the Indians is to touch a captive, even *
with her confent. This crime would be punimed with inftant death.
I know from Colonel Brant, that among the Six Nations there has yet
been no inftance of fuch an offence. As foon as the captive is fet at li-
berty, there exifts no farther prohibition, in cafe me confents. As they^j
can neither read nor write, and yet are defirous of tranfmitting the me-
mory of their actions to pofterity, efpecially the fortunate exploits of
their tribes; they effect this purpofe by cutting figures in the bark of
trees, which, to thofe who are unacquainted with this fort oflanguage,
appear to have no form, but are very intelligible to them and their pofte-
rity, as long as they are fpared by all-deftroying time. It is in this
manner they record their exploits in hunting and war, the number of
the fcalps they have torn from the fkulls of their enemies, &c. The

A a 2 wampum,

ISO TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

wampum, which is their money, is alfo their ornament, and their pledge
for the performance of every contract and oath. They are more or left
(killed in cafting up accounts, in proportion to the extent of their trade.
They count their months and days by the moon and the night, and
their years by fummer and winter. The pole flar, with which they
are acquainted, guides them in their nocturnal journies.

The cuftoms of the Indians, with refpect to marriage, are various.
In fome tribes the children are given in marriage by their parents ; in
others they make their own choice. Among fome polygamy is per-
mitted ; with others it is not in ufe. In fome tribes the infidelity of the
wives caufes not the leaft unealinefs to the huiband ; in others it afflicts
them to fuch a degree, that they frequently poifon themfelves ; an acl:
of defpair, which is alfo fometimes committed by women from the
fame motives. Marriage, however, is in general with them but a tran-
fitory union. Divorces are very frequent ; and in this cafe the chil-
dren remain with the wife, together with all the other property. Con-
verfation feldom or never takes place between the hufband and wife ; the
i Indians in general fpeak little. The wife, when (he returns home from
hard labour, prepares food for her huiband, twice or thrice a day, who
is ever fatisfied with what me gives him. If no meal be prepared, the
hufband goes away without complaining, and eats with one of his neigh-
hours.

Their ufual difeafes are inflammatory and putrid fevers, and the fmall-
pox. The laft never attacks them, but when they are near the habita-
tions of white people, to the care of whofe phyficians they commit
themfelves with a tolerable (hare of confidence. If there be n<p medical
perfons in the neighbourhood, they place equal confidence in their con-
jurors, who are often women. The remedies, which the conjurors apply,
confift generally of the infpifTated juices of herbs. They alfo often
caufe the patient to be put into a kind of oven, or vapour-bath, to bring
on a violent perfpiration, which is the moft common cure. Thefe
vapouf-baths are made by means of large {tones, heated as much as poiii-
ble, and arranged in the form of a circle, in the centre of which the pa-
tient

BY THE DUKE 2)E LA ROCHEFOUCAUI/T LIANCOURT. 181

tient is placed. Over this fmali inclofure is fpread a very low tent
cover, made of wool, the red-hot ftones are wetted with water, and
when the patient, by means of this fleam, is in a ftrong perfpiration, he
is fuddenly immerged into the coldeft brook. This remedy is repeated
feveral times, and proves often falutary in pleuriiies and colds. But
never is any remedy applied without fome concomitant myfterious cere-
mony ; fuch as blowing upon the patient, dancing, howling, or beating
the drum. Whenever they apply a remedy, or practife their art, they
invoke the Great Spirit, to whom, they fay, they are called in their
fleep. Pains in the head, and in the mufcles of the neck, are very
common among the women. They are attributed to the manner in
which they carry their burthens.

The bite of the rattle-fnake is eafily cured, the remedy being known
to all the Indians, and ufually applied. I have already mentioned, that
it is the rattle-fnake root (polygala fenega, Linn.). The bruifed leaves
are applied to the wound, and the juice, extracted from the root, is
taken with a little butter or fat. There are, however, feveral other
remedies againft this accident, which no Indian regards. The flem of
the fnake is confidered as a delicacy by the Indians, and the flough,
which the fnake cafts off twice a year, beaten into powder, is ufed as
a cleanfer of the blood.

The language of the Indians, in their conferences, is always figura-
tive. When, for inftance, they wiili to defcribe the reftoration of peace
between two nations, they exprefs themfelves as follows: " We are
making a road five hundred miles in length through the foreft ; we are
tearing up the roots and branches that obftruct the way ; we are clear-
ing it of flones, rocks, and trees ; we are removing the hills ; we
cover it with fand, and make it fo perfectly light, that all the nations
can fee each other without the leaft obftruction." Although they con-
duct themfelves with great coolnefs, in all their dealings, yet they often
grow warm in the delivery of their fpeeches, and then fvveli declama-
tion into muficai notes : the afTembly liftens in profound iilence. The
members of the council fmoke their pipes all the while, and the orator,

when

182 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

when he has done, fits down with them, and does the fame. Their
fpeeches may be as long as they pleafe ; they are never interrupted ;
iince to interrupt an Indian would be deemed the greateft offence. In
their deputations, their reception of ambafladors, and their negociation
of treaties, they introduce much folemnity, and many ceremonies.

When one nation wages war againft another, they refolve on fo
doing after due deliberation, but never declare war againft their enemy.
They come upon him in greater or fmaller numbers, and kill and de-
flroy every thing within their reach. Whenever they meet with fingle
individuals, who belong to the hoftile nation, they treat them in the
fame manner. There are, however, places of inviolability, where their
hoftilities are fufpended. Such is a certain fpot on the banks of the
river Miffouri, where a fpecies of {tone is found, of which they ftand in
particular need, for making pipes. Here the bittereft enemies work
quietly near one another, in breaking thele ftones, which they all alike
want. There are more fuch places, equally facred ; and no inftance.
has ever happened of thefe places having become a fcene of contention.

Peace cannot be concluded between two nations, but through the in-
tervention of a neutral tribe ; and until it be actually concluded, the
contending parties continue to deftroy each other. As loon as the
words of peace are proclaimed by the neutral nation, the arnbaffadors of
the tribes at war meet and agree upon the cejjation of hoftilities. No
other conditions are ever made. The propoials are reported by theam-
bafladors to the different councils of their refpe&ive nations. All the
chieftains now afTemble, fmoke the calumet of peace, prefent each other
with belts of wampum, and peace is definitively concluded. They do
not give up the prifoners they have made, who remain where they are
in a flate of flave'ry.

When the Indians are at war with the white people, in which
generally feveral nations join, the negociations for peace are nfually
opened by mefTengers, deputed by the latter, who are frequently mur-
dered by the former. This happened in the laft war with the Ameri-
cans. General Wayne, at the beginning of the year 1794, fent three

officers

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCIIEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 183

officers, attended by three interpreters, to different nations, which had
taken a polltion in front of his army ; the fix perfons, who carried
the American flag, were all killed. After the battle, which took place
in Augnft following, near Lake Erie, and in which the Indians were
defeated, General Wayne, inftead of putting theprifoners to the fword,
ordered them to be well treated, and fent feveral of them back with
propositions of peace. The Indians being difpirited by their defeat, as
well as by the faintnefs of the affiftance afforded them by the Englifh,
who had excited them to the war, were glad to get their priibners back,
yielded to the general wifh as well as neceffity of living at peace, and
conlented that negociations mould be opened. Eleven nations had been
at war with the Americans ; ambaffadors for the eleven nations arrived ;
and the negociations Jailed three months.

As foon as the point has been agreed upon, that negociations for
peace mall be opened, the Indians confider peace as actually concluded,
and for this reafon they bring the calumet of peace into the firft aflem-
bly, which is always very numerous ; it is prefented by one of the
chieftains, and every one prefent fmoaks it. To wipe the end of the
pipe would be a great affront to an Indian, and might even lead to the
rupture of the negociation. The fubfequent aflemblies are lefs nu-
merous. They are compofed of about three or four deputies of each
nation, attended by interpreters; for all the nations fpeak differ-
ent dialects. The fpeeches of the Indians are very long, and, at
times, lafl three hours. They are liftened to, as I have already ob-
ierved, with the utmoft attention. Their remarks and anfwers are
often extremely pertinent and acute. The orators frequently mark
down with wampum the leading points of their fpeeches, in a man-
ner fcarcely intelligible to any one but themfelves. By a fimilar arrange-
ment of their wampum, the young Indians, who affifr. at the principal
deliberation, report to the council of their nation not only all the pro-
poials which have been made, but, in general, every thing that has
been fa id.

The

184 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

The negociations being brought to a clofe, the articles agreed upon
are. written on a long piece of parchment, comprifmg every thing that
relates to every different nation concerned in the peace. Thefe parch-
ments are iigned by all the chieftains of the nations, who, for the moK
part, ufe as their fignature a mismapen image of the animal, which
forms the diilinctive mark of the tribe. One of thefe parchments,
thus figned, remains in the hands of the white nation, and the other
is delivered to one of the Indian nations concerned, which is moft
numerous, and from which the reft receive copies of the treaty in wam-
pum. Every thing being terminated, prefents are made, and the calu-
met is fmoaked by way of conclufion.

General Wayne, from whom i learned thefe particulars, allows, that
the Indians pofTefs an excellent difpofition, with much found und-er-
ftanding and judgment. In the battle, which decided the iiTue of the
war, they difplayed the moft obflinate valour, bordering on blood-
thirfty ferocity. They even executed bold and tolerably Ikilful ma-
noeuvres, which, though they had undoubtedly been contrived and in-
dicated to them by Englim officers, neverthelefs did them infinite
credit.

The Indians, giving a hofpitable reception to travellers, make them
fmoke the tomahawk, as they ratify a peace by fmoking the calu-
met with their former enemies. They generally fmoke a very pleafant
tobacco, which is rendered ftill milder by a mixture of the bruifed
leaves of fragrant plants, and efpecially of fumach.

Let it, however, be remembered, that thefe general remarks on the
manners of the Indians admit of many modifications in regard to fmgle
tribes and individuals. I have collected them here, rather with a view
of gratifying, as far as I am able, the eager curiofity of my European
friends, than with an intention of prefenting them with a complete de-
lineation of Indian manners, fuch as could fatisfy myfelf. Yet I can
at leaft offer this picture as faithful, if imperfect, though it be not
drawn from my own immediate obfervation.

Buffalo

BY THE DUKE DE LA KOCHEFOVCAULT LIANCOURT. 185

Buffalo Town is about four miles diftant from Lake Erie. The road,
which leads thither, runs under the moil beautiful beech trees and
pines, and is for this reafon even worfe, than that by which we came
this morning. All this country is full of ftagnant waters, and large
linking fwamps and morafles ; and yet we did not obferve any agues
among the Indians, who feem Icfs liable to fuch difeafes than white
people.

At length we reached Lake Erie, that is to fay, a fmall fettlement
of four or five houfes, {landing about a quarter of a mile from the
lake. A fmall creek feparated them from our road. This creek is fo
muddy, that nobody ventures to ford it on horfeback. The faddles are,,
therefore, taken off: the horfemen pafs the creek, which is about
twenty feet in breadth, in boats, and make the horfes fwirn acrofs,
though thefe find great difficulty in gaining the oppofite bank.

We met, on our journey, fome troops of travelling Indians, and two
or three caravans of white people ; occurrences, which afford great
pleafure. A fire, not yet extinguished, veftiges of a camp or refHng-
place, nay, a broken utenfil, which has ferved for the ufe of a travel-
ler, excites, in thefe wildernefles, the mofl pleafing fenfations. The
idea, " I am net alone inthisvaftfoHtude" cannot but be ftill more im-
portant to him, who travels by himfelf in thefe foreils, than it was to
us. And yet we enjoyed thefe emotions, in every part of our jour-
ney, where the habitations lay at considerable diftances afunder. The
fmalleft portion of cleared ground, or a little wood cut down, is be-
held with the utmoft joy,, and its afpect infpires the beholder with frefh
courage to proceed.

We had hoped to find Mr. Guillemard at the inn, but learned from
the Indian, who had conducted him hither, that he had arrived here
two hours ago, and had already proceeded onward on his journey ; he
found it too tedious to wait for us ; and befides, nothing could be had
in the inn. He had very properly crofTed over to the other fide ; we
intended to do the fame ; but it was too late. We were, therefore,
neceffitated to content ourfelves with a very poor fupper, and to lie
down on the floor, wrapped up in our cloaks. Not the leajft furniture

B b was

186 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

was to be feen in the houfe, nor was there any milk, rum, or candles.
With confiderable trouble we got fome milk from the neighbours ; but
they were not equally obliging, in regard to rum and candles. At
length we obtained thefe articles from the other fide of the river ; our
appetite was kden ; we fpent a pleafant evening, and flept as well as in
the woods.

At Lake Erie (this is the name of this clutter of houfes) every
thing is much dearer, than in any other place, through which we have
hitherto pafTed, in our journey, from want of any direct communica-
tion with other countries, to facilitate the intercourfe of trade and com-
merce. There is fcarcely onelioufe in this little hamlet, without a per-
fon indifpofed with the ague. We found ourfelves here furrounded by-
Indians ; fome of them had caught, with harpoons, feveral large ftur-
geons on the'border of the lake, which they offered us for two (hillings
a piece. The banks are crowded, nay rendered noifome with places
wherethe Indians dry the fifh, which they catch in great numbers in
Lake Erre.

From the fmallnefs of the lakes we had fcen in Geneflee, we were
much -difpofed to admire this lake. We were charmed with its vaft ex-
tent. Were it not for the oppofite bank, its afpecl: would refemblc that
of the fea ; as no other land was to be feen, and the profpecl: of water
was boundlefs. The banks of the lake are rather flat, and uninhabited
throughout this whole extent. Father CHARLEVOIX obferves in his
travels, that Lake Erie received its name from a tribe of Hurons, who
inhabited its banks, but were exterminated by the Iroquois, and the
word erte in their language fignifies a cat. The immenfe number of
wild cats, which are found on the banks of this lake, and the fkins of
which are much valued, have probably given rife to the name.

At break of day Mr. de Blacons and myfelf proceeded to the place,
where we were to crofs the river, three miles diftant from the inn.
Dupetitthouars had hired a boat to fail down the river, which iflues
from Lake Erie, is about three quarters of a mile in breadth, and is called
the Niagara. We here embarked, and confequently left the territory
of the United States.

MINE-

BY THE DtfKB DB LA ROCHKFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 187

I fhall here fubjoin a few remarks on the mineralogy of the country,,
which we have traverfed. I owe them to Mr. Guillemard, who on
this fubjecl: pofTefles more ample and correct information, than I can
boaft.

In the vicinity of Philadelphia the rocks are all compofed of granite
or gneifs. The moft common is a granite interfperfed with mica, and
you frequently meet with large ftrata of mica or talc. The ftrata oP
thefe rocks incline towards the horizon, forming an angle of about
forty-five degrees. The layer of earth, fp read over them, is generally
a fort of fand of the fame quality as the rock. Under this bed of fand,
a. hard fort of clay is frequently met with. MJ

This large mafs of granite is interfered 'by veins of hornftone, cal-
careous fpars, and other lime-ftones, with very good marble. On the'
banks of the Schuylkill, and efpecially near Norriftown, a vein of fine
marble moots out of the furface ; it is connected with the rock of gra^
nite, which, towards the north-weft, borders upon the river.

The direction of all thefe veins generally forms a right angle witri
that of the flratum of granite, and they ufually drop in a line perpendi-
cular to the horizon.

In the whole neighbourhood, no petrifactions are found of marine
animals and plants, or of any thing fimilar ; but in holes, dug in the
ground, as well as in brooks, a ftone is frequently met with of a loofe
and granulated texture, which is eafily pulverifed,.and bears a clofe affi-~
nity to fluor.

Further northwards, the foil, which" before was much covered with,
mica, begins to be lefs fo, and the rocks contain lefs granite. Near the
creek Perkioming, a reddim argillaceous flate is found, with which the
country in general abounds, till you come within nine miles of Read-
ing. Here begin ftrata of a {tone of a light grey, and fometimes of a
blueifh colour, which breaks into large fquare pieces, and feems to bea^
fpecies of fluor.

On the road to Reading", at a fmall diftance from that place, are

B b 2 found

188 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

found large maffes of a kind of pudding- ftone, confifling of fragments of
gneifs and flate, imbedded in a dark grey bafaltes.

Near this fpot is found calcareous fpar, but in fmall quantities ; and
in the vicinity of Reading is much lime-flone.

We were told, that pudding- flone, in this country, is never found in
ftrata ; it is commonly of a dark red colour, which is rather dull.

The country about JLancafler, alfo, abounds in lime-ftone, but with-
out any impreilion of marine animals. The adjacent ftrata confift of a
greyim flate, and fink deep into the ground.

On the banks of the Sufquehannah a flratum of fandy loam covers
the perpendicular veins of gneifs and flate, which, at times, form connV
derable mafles.

Near Middle Town the rocks are of a reddim colour, and contain
much clay. On paffing the Peters' Mountains, you meet with much
granite ; yet flate predominates. The rocks, which form the bafes of
the mountains, or the fteep banks of the river, on the road from North- .
umberland to Afylum, exhibit but little variety in a mineralogical point
of view. In fome places, the flate breaks readily into fmall plates,
which are made ufe of to cover the roofs of houfes. No granite appears
any more ; and both in brooks and rivers free-ftone is found, with im-
preffions of fea animals and plants. Quarz difappears by degrees. The
foil coniifts of fand, except in plains, meadows, and low grounds, which
are covered with either rotten plants or vegetable earth. The ground,
in general, is fo much covered with earth, that a traveller, who has no
time to explore rocks and ftone-quarries, will hardly be able to form a
complete and difcriminative idea of the minerals of this country.

Near Loyalfock ftones are to be found, which have the appearance of
bafaltes. Some contain mica, but in a very fmall proportion. Above
Afylum the rocks are of an argillaceous compofition. The foil in the
neighbourhood is, for the moft part, rich and fertile. The ftrata incline
with a lefs acute angle, and frequently run parallel to the horizon. The
flone, when broken, appears of a teftaceous texture, and its grain re-
fembles metallic particles, not yet perfectly formed. Free-ftone is fre-
quent, and fo is bafait. Broad level plains, expofed to inundation, form

the

BY THE DUKfi DE LA ROCHKFOUCAULT LIAXCOURT.

the greater part of the territory, which extends towards the diftrict of
Geneflee. At Painted Poft, the water rofe, in December, 1797, nine-
teen feet above the common level for the fummer months. The depth
of the layers of earth, and the fwamps, greatly obftruft mineralogical
refearches.

Thefirftftrata, in which I found marine bodies in their native beds, are
in the vicinity of the fmall lakes, between Lake Seneca and Crooked Lake.
Near Friendfmill and Friendflanding, oyfter- (hells, with remains of
other teftaceous animals, are found in a foft argillaceous ftone. Farther
weft the argillaceous ftones difappear, and are fucceeded by calcareous.
The country grows more and more flat ; but wherever the nature of the
ground, or morafles, did not prevent us from examining into the nature
and form of the ftrata, they ran nearly parallel to tbe horizon. They are,
for the moft part, of a calcareous compofhion, and contain numerous
remains and impreffions of fea animals. Of this description are mod of
the ftones in Big Plain, on the Buffalo Creek, on the banks of Lake
Erie, at leaft at its extremity, the only part which we traverfed, and on
the fouthern bank of the river, as far as Niagara.

As to thejpecies of TREES, that compofe the woods, through which
we have patted {ince our departure from Philadelphia, they are without
number. I poflefs too little information on this fubjecl: to difcriminatc and
enumerate them all. Thofe which I diftinguifhed were the red, or fcarlet
flowering, theafh-leaved, the mountain, and the fugar maple, the black,
and the poplar- leaved birch, the curled maple, which, however, in Penn-
fylvania and GencfTee, is but a middle fized fhrub, the button tree, the
perfimon tree, the fmall- leaved chefnut tree, an afh with deeply indented
leaves, the white nut tree, the hickory, the bermudian cedar, the ben-
jamin tree, the magnolia with indented leaves, the white fprucc and
hemlock fir, the white and black oak, the white and black am, the black
and filver poplar, the plum tree, the cherry tree, the tulip tree, the com-
mon fumach and the vinegar plant, befide an immenfe number of mrubs,
for the moft part with beautiful, yet fcentlefs flowers, and a vaft variety
of fy Ivan plants.

THE

TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA^

The Hi/lory O/*MR. JOHNSON, of Virginia, who, in 17QO* was taken Pri~*
foner by the Indians, written on board the Pigeon, in Oflober, 1 7Q4.

The following narrative contains the hiftory of Mr. Johnfon, ait
American gentleman, a native of Virginia, and of his releafe in the
year 1790.

Although this hiftory does not abound with remarkable events, and
ibme of them are rather unimportant, yet it appears to me interesting^
inafmuch as it enlarges our knowledge of Indian manners from facls,
which Mr. Johnfon, a gentleman of veracity, of an unafluming difpon-
tion, and of a calm, temperate imagination, related to me himfelf, and
which I wrote down, in a manner, from his mouth.

Mr. Johnfon, inhabitant and merchant of Richmond, in Virginia,
found himfelf under the neceffity of proceeding to Kentucky ; there to.
receive certain fums of money, due to his father, who was recently
dead ; and to examine fome witneffes before the fupreme court of the
ilate of Virginia. Having made the fame tour the preceding year, he
fet out accordingly from Richmond, in the beginning of the month of
March, i 790, and proceeded with his friend, Mr. MAY, a great land?-
holder in Kentucky, and an inhabitant of Peterfburg, to Kecklar's
Station, in Virginia, on the banks of the Great Kanhaway. They
found there James Skuyl, a merchant, of Great Brayer-court-houfe, in
Virginia, who was carrying a large quantity of merchandize to Ken-
tucky. They jointly purchafed one of the veflels, which, as they arc
intended merely to defcend the Ohio, and are not built to remount it,
have no more durability than is required for that purpofe, and are, con-
fequently, fold at a cheap rate. They are large flat bottomed veflels,
without any deck ; and are fold in Limeftone for the value of their
timber. That bought by Mr. Johnfon and his fellow travellers coft
thirty dollars.

I ftate thefe particulars, though they may appear trifling, as they will

not,

BY THE DUKB DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULf LIANCOURT. 1QJ.

not, perhaps, be found altogether unufeful ; the emigration to Ken-
tucky being at this time extremely frequent, and the way of proceeding
thither by water being the mod expeditious, the leaft expenfive, and
the rnoft generally chofen of any.

Having embarked on board this veffel, with their merchandize and
ftores, they defcended the river, working the veflel themfelves. During
the whole pafifage of two hundred and ninety-five miles thence to
Limeftone, nothing is required but to keep the veffel in the middle of
the ftream, which is fufficiently rapid to carry her down, without the
leaft affiftance from rowing. At the confluence of the Kanhaway with
the Ohio, at Point Plea fan t, they found three other travellers, who
were waiting for an opportunity to proceed on the fame journey ; namely,
WILLIAM PHLYN, of Point Pleafant, a petty tradefman, who was
in the habit of travelling to Kentucky ; and DOLLY and PEGGY FLEM-
ING, likewife of Point Pleafant, who intended to proceed to Kentucky,
under the protection of Phlyn, a relation of their's, and to fettle in that
place. They were all of them fully aware, that the navigation of the
Ohio is not exempt from danger ; but they alfo knew, that inftances of
the Indians attacking a vefTel in the midft of the flream are very rare,
and that an attack on a veflel, with fix perfons on board, was altogether
unprecedented. They, therefore, made themfelves perfectly eafy.
Having left Point Pleafant on Friday, the 2oth of March, early in the
morning, they proceeded, during a paffage of twenty-two hours, with
all the care, which the weather, when favourable, admits of in thefe
forts of veiTels. They had failed one hundred and fix miles ; it was
five o'clock in the morning ; they were near the confluence of the
Sciota, and had a fair profpect of reaching Limeftone the next morning,
by day-break. Palling on with this expectation, they heard dreadful
fhrieks, proceeding from two men, who fpokeEng-lim, and told them, in
the moft affecting tone of grief, that they had been taken priloners by
the Indians, and had made their efcape, but feared to fall again into their
hands. They had not eateti any thing for thefe four days paft, and
entreated, if they could not be taken -on board, -to be at leaft fupplied

with

TRAVELS IX NORTH AMERICA,

with fome provifion, and thus faved from the unavoidable danger ot
perifhing through hunger. The firft and immediate fentiment of all the
paiTengers impelled them to fucrour thefc unfortunate perfons. But a
little confideration excited ftrong apprehenfions in fome of them, left the
affiftance, which they might afford thefe perfons, mould throw them-
felves into the hands of the Indians. Mr. Johnfon, as well as Mr. May,
entertained this fear, which, on the other hand, was combated as ground-
lefs by the other two men ; and the two women, yielding to companion
(a feeling more prevalent in their fex than our's) declared it an acl of
barbarous cruelty, on the part of the above two gentlemen, to oppofe the
faving the lives of the above two perfons, in danger of inftant death.
Johnfon and May, though frill imprefled with the fame apprehenfions,
felt extremely uneafy, when they confidered, that in confequence of their
prudence, the unfortunate men might, perhaps, perifh. They would not
appear lefs humane than the reft, who fhared the fame danger, and ac-
cordingly defended their opinion with lefs firmnefs, than when they firft
propofed it. The two unfortunate men followed the veiTel along the
more, as me was carried onwards by the current.. Their mournful la-
mentations, their fcrcams, and expreffions of agonizing anguifh and
dcfpair ftill increafing, William Phlyn, who derived fome kind of autho-
rity from his being aecuftomed to this pallage, and in the habit of fre-
quenting Kentucky, propofed that he would go alone, and carry bread to,
the unfortunate fufFerers, if his companions would land him 011 more..
He contended,, that he mould difcern the Indians from afar r if they made,
their appearance ;, that, in this cafe, the veflel might eafily regain the
middle of the ftream ;. and that he would make the journey to Lime-
ftone on. foot, without falling into the hands of the Indians. It would ;
have been extremely hard to oppofe this propofal, which was feconded
by the two women, and by James Skilyl. Mr. Johnfon. and Mr. May,.
therefore, yielded, rather out of weaknefs, than from any hearty appro-
batioa of the mcafure. They fteered towards the more, where the two
fuffer,ers were dragging themfelves along, as if tormented by the jnoft
excruciating pains. Why is it, that humanity and candour muft fo fre-
quently

8Y THE DUKE DE LA RUCiiEFOUC.il J.T LtANCOUKT. 1 gS

qucntly fall victims to artifice and fraud ? The apprchcnfion of the two
gentlemen were but too well founded. The two men were two traitors,
fuborned by the Indians to decoy the veflel to the more. The Indians fol-
lowed them, at fome diftance, conftantly concealing themfelvcs behind
trees. The moment the veflel reached the more, they burft forth, about
twenty-five or thirty in number, raffed a dreadful howl, and fired on the
paffengers. Two of them were killed by the firft firing, and the reft, in
equal aftonifhment and terror, endeavoured to regain the middle of the
ftream. But being too near the more, and their activity and dexterity
being feverely checked by the proximity of the impending danger, they
made but little way. The two perfons killed were Mr. May and Dolly
Fleming. The Indians continued to fire. James Skuyl was wounded,
and two horfes, which were on board, were killed. All this increafed the
terror of the three travellers, who were yet able to work, and impaired
their exertions. The fury of the Indians increafed in proportion to their
hope of fuccefs. Some threw themfelves into the river, and fwam to-
wards the mip ; thofe who remained on more threatened to fire on the
paiTengers, if they mould make the leaft refinance, and kept their pieces
conftantly levelled againft them. The fwimmers brought the fhip ac-
cordingly on more ; and the unfortunate Americans were obliged to land
under the continued howl of the Indians, which, however, were no
longer the accents of rage, but fhouts of joy, on account of the feizure of
their prey. The Indians offered them their hands, which they fliook
with more or lefs fatisfaclion, in proportion to the greater or lefs degree
of fear they felt, which we may eafily conceive not to have been fmall.
This reception, however, in fome meafure allayed their apprehenfion.
While fome of the Indians were thus faluting the prifoners, and led them
away from the more, the reft were bufied in landing all the merchandize
and ftores. Some cut wood, and made a fire. Thefe arrangements were
foon made. The articles found in the ihip were carried to the fire, as
well as the two unfortunate perfons who had been mot. The latter were
completely ftripped of their clothes, fcalped on the fpot, and their corpfes
thrown into the river. Mr. May was an intimate friend of Mr. John-

C c fon ;

TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

fon ; and the latter is yet at a lofs for adequate terms to exprefs the hor-
ror he felt at this dreadful fight, which for fome time overpowered
all his apprehension concerning his , own fafety. The fcalps were dried
by the fire, to increafe the trophies of the tribe.

While the male prisoners were ftripped of what articles they had about
them, with more or lefs rigour, according to the whims of thofe who
took this talk upon them, or happened to be the neareft, the clothes of
Peggy Fleming were not touched. Mr. Johnfon's coat and waiftcoat were
already pulled ofT, and half his fhirt, when an Indian, who hitherto had not
concerned himfelf with his drefs, returned it to him, and fpoke to him
who was pulling off the fhirt, in a tone not only implying cenfure, but
alfo a right to offer it. The fame Indian gave him a blanket, by way of
indemnification for the lofs of his coat and waiflcoat. His fhoes Were
taken from him, and inftead of them they gave him mockipons, or Indian
fhoes, made of deer-fkins. His breeches and flockings were yet left
him ; all the clothes were added to the reft of the booty. The Indians
were now near feventy in number, among whom were about a dozen
women. Their leader afTembled them around the fire, and, holding the
tomahawk in his hand, addreffed them in a fpeech, which lafled about
an hour, and which he delivered with great eafe and fluency of expref-
fion, with geftures, and in a tone of enthufiafm, looking frequently up to
heaven, or cafting down his eyes on the ground, and pointing now to the
prifoners, now to the river. Almoft at every phrafe the Indians, who
liftened to him with the utmoft attention, expreffed their approbation
and applaufe with accents of deep, mournful exclamation. The booty
was divided among the different tribes, which fhared in this enterprize.
The tribe of the Shawanefe, being the moft numerous, and that to which
the leader belonged, received three prifoners ; and William Phlyn fell to
the fhare of the other tribe, the Cherokees. Every prifoner was given to
the Charge of an Indian, who was anfwerable for his perfon. Although
thus diftributed, the prifoners remained together, and neglected not to
improve the liberty allowed them, converging with each other without
conftraint.

The

BY THE DUKLE >E LA ROCHKFOUCAL'L I* LIANCOURT.

The two men, who by their lamentations had decoyed them on more,
now rejoined the Indians. Their wretched victims poured forth againft
them fevere reproaches, though they were fomevvhat foftened by the fear
of being overheard by the Indians. They pleaded necefTity, and that
they had been ordered on pain of death, to acl: as they did. By their
accounts, they were inhabitants of Kentucky, furprized by the Indians,
fix months before, in their own habitations ; and had already, feveral
times, been employed in fimilar treachery. The ftores found on board
the veflcl ferved the Indians for their meals, in which they generoufly
allowed the prifoners to partake. Night coming on, every one lay down
to reft under the trees. The prifoners were furrounded by the tribes to
which they refpeclively belonged, and Singly guarded by the Indian, who
had the charge of them. Peggy Fleming, who was never left by her
guards, was, this night in particular, {unrounded by women. Mr. John-
fon was tied by the elbows ; and the ends of the ropes were fattened to
trees, which flood far afunder, fo that it was altogether impomble for
him to lie down. Yet this was not deemed fufficient. Another rope,
fattened to a tree, was tied around his neck, and from it a rattle was fuf-
pended, which, if he had made the leaft motion, would have awakened
the whole troop. The reft were treated nearly in the fame manner. The
two white fpies enjoyed the moft perfect liberty. Some Indians were
ftationed, at certain diftances, around the party, to obferve what was paf-
fmg in the furrounding country.

Early in the morning the prifoners were unbound, and fuffercd to enjoy
the fame liberty as on the preceding day. About ten o'clock the Indians,
who were potted along the banks of the Ohio, reported, that a veffel was
dropping down the river. The prifoners were ordered to join the other
two, who yefterday beguiled their prey, and to exert their utmoft efforts to
decoy the paflengers in the fhip on more. It is eafy to conceive, that the
horror which they felt, on receiving thefe orders, was ftrongly combated
by the fear of inftant death, with which they were threatened, in cafe of
disobedience and refufal. They were, therefore, under the ncceffity of
the other two white men. Mr. Johnfon, however, though com-

C c 2 pellcd

TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

polled, for the preservation of his own life, to pretend to do like the
others, firmly determined not to make himfelf guilty of occafioning the
Slavery, or probable death of the unfortunate paflengers on board, by any
voluntary action on his part ; and, confequently, neither to make the
fmalleft gefture, nor to fpeak a word. And well might he fpare himfelf
this trouble. His companions exerted themfelves to the utmoft, to excite
the companion of the pafiengers on board, who, without the leaft hefita-
tion, ftood in towards the more, to fuccour and refcue from flavery, thoie
whom they thought unfortunate captives. Scarcely had they approached
within a fmall diftance of the more, when the Indians, who, as on the
preceding day, had ftolen along behind the bufhes, haftened up, fired, and
mot the fix perfons on board. Shouts of victory fucceeded to the howls
of barbarous rage. The veflel was hauled on more ; and two of the ill-
fated paflengers, who were not yet dead, were immediately difpatched
with the tomahawk. The fix fcalps were torn off and dried, and the
booty was divided, but with fewer formalities than on the preceding day.
Soon after the fcouts made fignals, that three other veflels were in fight.
The fame ftratagem was employed, but, for this time, in vain. The
families on board, which were proceeding to Kentucky, did not appear
to make any attempt to deviate from their courfe, but, on the contrary,
purfucd it with redoubled activity. The Indians fired at the veflels, but,
from the breadth of the Ohio, which, in this place, is almoft a mile, the
balls took no effect. Yet the paflengers were panic-ftruck. Of the
three veflels, which they occupied with their cattle, they deferted two,
and joined all in one ; believing, that they might thus proceed falter,
and more certainly make their efcape. The other two veflels they
abandoned to the ftream. This meafure inspired the Indians with a
hope of leizing them, which they would never have attempted, if the
paflengers, without leaving thefe two veflels, had ftedfaftly purfued their
courfe. The Indians, who, in all their enterprizes, are rather animated
"by a thirft for plunder than by real courage, never venture upon an at-
tack, without being convinced," that they are fuperior in ftrength ; a con-
viction, which they do not readily admit. Infpirited by their number, by

the

BY THE DUKE DE LA HOCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOUKT. 1Q7

the obvious panic of their enemies, and by the feparation of their means
of defence, they refolved on purfuing them. Having on the preceding
day captured two vefiels, they went on board, embarked their prifoners,
and, with ail pofiible fpeed, purfued the fleeing mip. The two veiTels,
which had been abandoned to the itream, foon fell into their hands;
but, not fatisned w r ith their capture, they were bent upon taking the
third, which they purfued with redoubled exertion, railing dreadful
howls, and difcharging all their pieces ; but their fire proved as ineffectual
as their other exertions. The fugitive veffel having gained confiderably
the ftart of them, approached a fpot, where the Indians feared to en-
counter new enemies. They were, accordingly, obliged to relinquifh their
defign, and to content themfelves with the rich booty, which had already
fallen into their hands. It confuted of effects, ftores, and other valuable
articles, belonging to the four families, which had jointly emigrated from
Virginia, to fettle in Kentucky. They brought every thing on more ;,
and, without diftributing the whole, fell eagerly on fome calks of whifky.
They drank fo largely, that all of them were foon intoxicated. Six o*
feven, to whom was committed the charge of guarding the booty, and
who had been ordered, at the beginning of thefe Bacchanalian revels, to
drink with moderation, retained alone the ufe of their ienfes. All the
reft lay buried in a profound ileep ; and;, among them, the leader of the.
party, and the guards of the prifoners. William Phlyn himfelf had
drunk fo much whifky, as to be in the fame fituation with his mafters.
Mr. Johnfon's mind w r as too deeply affected by his dreadful fituation, to
(hare in this difgufting banquet. Totally absorbed in the contemplation
of the dangers and miferies that awaited him, and eagerly defirous of
warding them. ofi% if poffible, he conceived, that the profound fleep of
all the Indians around him might afford the means of efcape, and commu-
nicated his idea to> James Schuyl, \vho was lying by his iide. The vef-
fels were -fattened to flakes along the more, at a fmall diftance from
them; the fuccefs of their enterprize depended merely on their Healing
thither unobferved, throwing themfelves into the firfl velfel they mould
find, the night being very dark, and abandon her to the ftreamu Succefs

appeared

1Q8 TRAVELS IX NORTH AMERICA,

appeared as certain, if they could reach the veffcls, -as inftant death, ort
the other hand, if they were apprehended. James Skuyl the more rea-
dily embraced this project, as, but half an hour before, he efcaped death
in a manner littie fhort of a miracle. An Indian ran up to him, in the
firft fit of drunken madnefs, with the dreadful knife in his hand, to fcalp
him, and would certainly have accomplifhed his purpofe, but for the in-
terference of two other Indians, lefs inebriated than he was, who checked
his fury. The laft words of this converfation were uttered in a voice fo
very low, that it was impoffible to conceive they fhould have been under-
ilood by an Indian, who lay at a confiderable diilance, though he were
even poffefled of a knowledge of the Englifh tongue ; yet he arofe, and
and tied them in the fame manner as the preceding night, without mew-
ing, however, the leaft paffion, nay, without fpeaking a word.

Thus the pleafmg hopes of the two prifoners were Wafted on a fudden,
and converted into renewed defpair. Tied faft to trees, feparated from
each other, convinced, by experience, that they were clofely watched,
without the leaft intermiffion, even in moments w 7 hen they might imagine
themfelves to be totally unguarded ; they could not but mppofe them-
felvcs doomed to a ftatc of hopelefs mifery. The remembrance of all
they had heard of the cruelty of the Indians towards their prifoners, op-
preffed their minds with conftant horror. They were aware, that they
would be yielded up to the grofTeft infults, and to lingering, cruel, and
varied torments. They confidered the Indians, who were lying around
them in a ftate of fenfelefs, brutifh intoxication, as the inftruments of
their tortures. It was wdth thefe painful ideas, that the two unfortunate
prifoners patted the remainder of the night. At break of day, the fur-
rounding troop awoke ; they were untied ; and this day, the third of their
captivity, was /pent in continued revels, kept up with the whilky, which
had been left the preceding day. The leader, probably from an opinion
that his expedition had Already proved fofficiently productive, proclaimed
his will on the next following day, that it ihould be clofed ; and the dif-
ferent tribes, which had taken a marc in it, fet out on their way home.
They all inhabited the neighbourhood of the lakes Ontario and Erie.

The

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

The leader of the moft numerous tribe was a Shawanefe ; the reft were
Lower Creeks, Wyandats, Mingoes, O then wages, Delawares, Ottawas,
Chepawas, and Cherokees.

Johnfon, Jacob Skuyl, and Peggy Fleming, as has already been ob-
fervcd, had fallen to the lot of the Shawanefe, forty of which tribe were
prcfent in this expedition. They left the Ohio together; while William
Phlyn departed, with the Cherokees. On the firft day's journey, Johnfon
was ordered to lead a cow, w T hich formed a part of the booty, found on
board the two deferted veffels. Jacob Skuyl, being wounded, had no-
thing to do, but follow the troop. Peggy Fleming, who was fur-
rounded by men and women by turns, could go wherever me pleafed.
They were all three at liberty to converfe as they chofe, without the In-
dians having hitherto conceived the fmalleft diftruft. The vaft booty,
which had fallen to the mare of this tribe, was, in part, transported on
horfes, ten or twelve in number, found in the veflels, and in part carried
by Indians, who, at times, loaded Mr. Johnfon with part of their
burden. The nrft day's journey was but five miles. The Shawanefe
halted in a beautiful vale, where, under draggling trees, about forty
horfes were grazing, which, in the courfe of the expedition, had been
taken from the different travellers, and fent to this fpot. They had
adopted this meafure, becaufe they were to return this way; and it, be-
fides, fupplied the horlfes with food in the utmoft abundance. The cow
was killed the. firft day, roafted, and devoured. What had not been
eaten, was left behind the next morning, when they fet out to renew
their journey. The leader, with eight or ten Indians, had, by this time,
left the troop, mounted the beft horfes, and rode off to reach their habi-
tations, before the arrival of the reft. They took Peggy Fleming with
them, who, for the prefervation of her life, did all me could to pleafe the
leader, and the other Indians, on whom fhe depended. Her good and
playful humour infured her. fuccefs. She was carried off on one of the
beft horfes, and the apprehenfions of her future fate were loft in the plea-
fure of her journey. Her two companions in misfortune, unable to
charm their mafters, as me did, continued their journey irithe fame man-
ner

^OO TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

ner, in which they had begun it ; except that they had nothing to carry,
as the horfes were more numerous: the cow too had been killed. The
troop breakfafted on fome fait meat they had found on board the veffels,
and on the remains of the meals of the preceding day, and then moved
farther onward. About twelve o'clock they halted. The game killed
by the hiuitfmen was dreffed, and the time of their halting was fre*
quently determined by the good or bad luck of the chace. They fmoked
their pipes before and after dinner, and then fet out again to purfue their
journey, until about an hour before night-fall. At this time they flopped
to eat their evening meal, which was much like the dinner, uiiially
fmoked a pipe in profound filence, and then lay down to reft on hides.
The prifoners were constantly tied at night, and the journey was pur-
fued in the fame unvaried manner. During the march, fome Indians,
generally the huntfmen, formed a kind of van-guard, and others brought
up the rear, at fome diftance, to watch whether the troop were pur-
fued; for both the miftruft and the vigilance of the Indians are very
great. The main body marched as they chofe, without the leaft order.
If game was efpied, either by the main body or the rear-guard, they
killed it. But the van-guard feemed in particular charged with this
duty. No more game is killed, than what is required for the next meal ;
and the woods are filled with it to fuch a degree, as to preclude all appre-
heniion in regard to future fubfiftence. The game killed is cut into large
pieces, and put on flakes driven into the ground. The cookery is per-
formed by the women. The Indians, on lighting their fires, take pecu-
liar care not to fet fire to the neighbouring trees.

The prifoners, we may eafily conceive, profited by the liberty they
enjoyed of keeping constantly together. Their melancholy converfation
breathed defpair in confequence of their having miffed the laft favour-
able opportunity of efcape, rather than hope of meeting with another.
Yet this hope, chimerical as it might appear, was not entirely abandoned.
The chief of the troop had conceived fome mntruft from their being
constantly together ; and his apprehenfion encreafed at the fight of a
knife, which Mr. Johnfbn inadvertently drew out of his pocket, and

which

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 201

<which he had carefully preferved for the purpofe of cutting the ropes,
with which he was tied at night, if an* favourable opportunity mould
offer. On the prifoners being again fearched, a few guineas were found
in the pocket of James Skuyl, which had been overlooked at the firft
fearch, and which heightened the miftruft. The firft means to which
the Indians reforted for their fecurity were, to ftrip both the unfortunate
prifoners of their breeches, inftead of which they were furnilhed with
a fliort apron, tied round their hips, and reaching half way down their
thighs, which cloathed them in the Indian fafliion. Their ihirts were
exchanged for coarfer ones. Yet all thefe precautions were not fufficient,
to allay the fears of their keepers. On the next morning the Chief or-
dered the troop to feparate into two divifions ; and James Skuyl to pro-
ceed with one, while Johnibn continued with the other ; they were both
to reach the fame place of deftination by different roads.

This new feparation proved extremely painful to Mr. Johnfon ; the
fellowfhip in misfortune had converted a four-days acquaintance into
the moft intimate friendihip. Skuyl was his fupport, his hope, the only
being with whom he could aflbciate; yet him he loft, left alone in nature's
vaft domain, and given up entirely to his grief and apprehenfions, con-
fiderably heightened by this lofs. The feparation from a dearly be-
loved wife, Mr. Johnfon faid, could hardly affect the heart with keener
pangs, than he felt, on being torn from this four-days friend. Yet how
was he to oppofe the iron-hand of neceffity ? A wife man, and this is
his chief merit, refigns himfelf to calamities he cannot avert : thus did
Mr. Johnfon. He foon determined on concealing, as much as poflible,
his painful fenfations, and, under the appearance of ferenity, to beguile
the miftruft of his mafters. He was powerfully fupported in the execu-
tion of this deiign by an innate firmnels, calmnefs, and cheerfulnefs of
temper. Though the hideous image of impending death would often
|efs upon his mind, he found fome confolation in the thought, that
not every prifoner is irrevocably doomed by the Indians to fuffer death ;
but, that, at times, they employ their captives to affift them in hunting, or
adopt them as members of their tribes. He has repeatedly aflured me, that

D d even

2O2 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

even in moments of the moft imminent danger, during his captivity his
fpirits never failed him for any length of time. A ray of hope would con-
ftantly re-animate his courage, though, wanting probability, it quickly
vanimed ; but, though lefs miferable than many others would have been
in his fituation, he was constantly wretched.

The famenefs of the remaining journey was not chequered by any
remarkable events. The marches were longer or fhorter in proportion
to the game they killed, to the duration of their Jleep at noon, and to the
delight they found in fmoaking their pipes. But their length efpecially
depended on the will of the chief, and the advice of the conjurors.
Their dreams frequently alter the direction of their journies. They fell
in w r ith feveral wandering troops of Indians, which caufed a longer or
fhorter delay, according to the hour at which they met. At times the
two troops would dine together ; but they never parted without hav-
ing informed each other of their exploits, and exhibited their prifoners
with pride and oftentation. At night Mr. Johnfon was always tied
loofer or tighter according to the whim of the Indian, who undertook
this charge, without always belonging to his guards, being fometimes de-
puted by one of them, who had perhaps fome bufmefs in front or rear of
the troop ; and in this cafe the deputy would often endeavour to juftify tke
confidence placed in him, by tying his prifoner as clofely as he could. One
night he was tied fo tightly, that the ropes cut deep into his arms, and
were covered by the fwelling they occafioned. Yet he dared not to com-
plain, for the whole party being interefled in the prefervalion of prifoners,
every meafure tending to that purpofe could not but obtain univerfal
approbation. At another time he was beaten by the chief for no other
reafon than the ill humour of this brute, yet he dared not to murmur.
Once he was feverely beaten by an Indian from a mere brutifh deiire of
ufmg him thus ; but this time his patience forfook him. He returned
the blows with the approbation of the whole troop. They faid he had
proved himfelf a man ; none but women fubmitted to fuch treatment
without oppofition. From that time he obferved, or fancied, that they
treated' him with more refpecl:. In the meanwhile the real com-
mander

BY THE DUKE DE LA KOCHEFOVCAULT LIANCOVRT. 203

rnandcr or chief of the troop rejoined them, after two days feparation.
Having altered his idea of reaching home fboner than the reft, he refolved
on fcouring the woods with his Indians, and it was by mere accident he
fell in with the troop from which he had feparated. Peggy Flerriming
was with them, apparently much habituated to their matters, as fhe pre-
ferred their protection to the company of Mr. Johnfbn. A few days after
the troop met a negro laden with whifky. He was the Have of an In-
dian, who was hunting in the woods, and had commiflioned him to fell
this liquor. Within a fhort time the negro fold his whole ftock, and
followed the troop, waiting for his mafter. The Indians halted foon after
to drink their whifky with more eafe, and to prepare for their entrance
into Sandufky, which was diftant but a few days journey. Their prepa-
rations confifted in the complete procefs of an Indian toilette, that is to
fay, they touched up and refrefhed the colours with which the Indians
are accuftomed to paint both the face and body. Every one is at liberty
to paint himfelf after his own fancy, except that they all wear one cer-
tain mark either on their breaft or arms. A black paint, prepared of
charcoal, and a red, compofed of minium and cinnabar, are moft fre-
quently ufed. The whole body and face are piaftered with thefe paints.
They fufFer their hair to grow only about the fcalp ; and cut off the reft,
clofe to the head, either in irregular lines, proceeding from the eyes and
the root of the nofe, and branching out from this central point in vari-
ous forms, or parallel lines extending near each other in the fame direc-
tion. At times it is a fort of haif-drefs., on which apparently no care is
beftowed. But the fact is, that they attend to this fort of ornament
with a peculiar care, and pafs whole hours before their looking-glafs,
which they carry coriftantly about them to complete their dreffing. This
they value as highly as the handfomeft European coquette can do ; and
are as much pleafed, when it is finifhed to their fatisfaclion, as Hie
may be. On fuch days they pluck off the hair from the eye-brows and
beard, with more care, than they usually bellow on this operation. As to
the common mark or lign, which they wear painted on their breafc or
arms, it is generally the image of fome animal. That of the tribe of the

D d 2 Shawancic

204 TRAVELS Itf NORTH AMERICA,

Shawanefe was a wolf. The women wear it in common with the men ;
but they paint only the cheek-bones, for the moft part, red. They fuf-
pend fmall filver or iron rings from the whole cartilaginous part of the
ear. The men wear them in the nofe. Either fex generally wears a
filver collar, from which a crofs is fufpended. A fhort fhirt, reaching
down to the apron, which is tied round the hips, is the common drefs of
both fexes ; in cold weather they throw a fliort mantle round the moul-
ders. Such, at leaft, are the drefs and fineries of the Shawanefe. Nearly
all the tribes vary in this refpecl, as well as in many others. After the
company were thus arrayed, they proceeded on their journey. The ne-
gro fpoke Englifh ; and, as the Indians entertained no miftruft againft
him, he had it in his power, to impart to Mr. Johnfon fome interefting
information, which, though not calculated to infpire the prifoners with
hope, yet proved to him extremely valuable and important. The troop
was foon joined by the mafter of the negro, and Ihortly after by two
other Indians, who took Mr. Johnfon by the hand, and conducted him to
the chief, whom they feemed to addrefs in a fuppliant manner, and with
an air of fubmiffion. At the clofe of an hour's converfation, the fubjecl of
which was the prifoner, and after the petitioners had delivered two gal-
lons of whifky, moftly quaffed by the chief, Mr. Johnfon was furren-
dered to them and carried off. All his ideas were abforbed by the prof-
peel: of certain deftru&ion, which impreiTed his mind ; every ray of hope
vanimed for a moment ; every perception was loft ; he dared not to afk
the negro, who, in conjunction with his mafter, had joined the two In-
dians ; ignorant as he was, whether he might not be connected with
them ; whether the companion, he feemed to ihew, were not an artifice
to betray him ; whether he were not, perhaps, his moft cruel enemy, his
executioner ! For fome time he moved on in filence, and fecret defpair ;
but, being no longer able to fupport the torturing idea of the uncertainty
of his fate, he, at laft, with great timidity, had recourfe to the negro, and
learned from him, that one of the two Indians, to whom he now be-
longed, having fome time ago killed an Indian of the tribe of the Min-
goes, he was bound by the laws of the tribe, to furnifh a perfon inftead of

the

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOUHT. 205

the Indian flam, or, in default of this, to be himfelf furrendered up to
the vengeance of his family ; that, being too poor to buy a prifoner, he
had prevailed upon the Shawanefe by his entreaties, and perfuaded the
chief, by means of the whifky, to make him a prefent of Johnfon, fo
that he now pertained to the tribe of the Mingoes, but that previoufly to
his being delivered up to them he would pafs a few days at his mailer's,
who was a neighbour of the two Indians. The profpecl: of flavery was
pleafmg to Mr. Johnfon ; he was happy even at this price to preferve his
life, the lofs of which had been conftantly before his eyes. He deemed
himfelf more fortunate, as he entertained a hope, that by fome means or
other he might be able to fhorten the period of his captivity. He jour-
neyed on about four days with his new matters, and lived with them in
the fame manner as with the former, except that he was not tied at
night. His old matters had given him back his clothes, and, on com-
paring his prefent {ituation with his former, and efpecially with that
which he expected in anxious fufpenfe, he felt happy. But this happinefs
was not of long duration. His unlucky ftars would have it fo, .that after
four days marching he again fell in with the Shawanefe. The chief,
who had now become fbber, was no longer fo generous as before, and re-
gretted his former generofity. He demanded Mr. Johnfon from the two
Indians, but was refufed. The two Indians referred to the teftimony of
the negro and his matter, which was in their favour ; but, the Shawanefe
being the ftronger party, they proceeded from demands to menaces, and
from menaces to aclis of violence ; the two Indians, dettitute of all means
of defence, were eafily conquered ; and Mr. Johnfon, torn from the Sha-
wanefe, was replunged into his former anxiety and mifery. His fitua-
tion appeared to him the more defperate, as a French merchant of Ca-
nada, who, being informed by the Indians, that the Shawanefe had a
white prifoner with them, came to redeem him, but had met with a re-
fufal from the chief, who told him, that he meant to lead him with the
other booty in triumph through his town. The merchant promifed Mr.
Johnfon, to renew his application the next morning, but the latter had
renounced all hope. The merchant actually came the next morning,

according

206 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

according to his promife, at the time of the arrival of the prifoner, and
made feveral trifling bargains with the Indians ; but all his applications
concerning Johnfon were in vain. The unfortunate young man, there-
fore, had no hope left, but what the profpecl: of occurrences, incidental
to a journey of one hundred and fifty miles, the actual diftance of his
place of defoliation, could afford. An event, with which his mofr. fan-
guine hopes could not have flattered him, foon took place. The Shawa-
nefe, proceeding on their journey, met an Indian with a horfe loaded
with whifky ; part of the booty was quickly exchanged for fome bar-
rels. The next morning the remainder of the booty went the fame
way, and on the following day they paid the Indian for what whifky he
had left in horfes, which they had brought with them from the banks
of the Ohio. The Shawanefe paiTed fix days in a flate of continual in-
toxication, and continued drinking until they had nothing left to drink.
Afhamed to return to their tribe without any trophies, but one fingle pri-
foner, they determined on another expedition, in which Mr. Johnfon was
to co-operate. Yet, on mature deliberation, they found "it flill more advife-
afcle, to fell the prifoner, in order to be able, to drink whifky, and drink it
largely, previoufly to their taking the field again. The expreffion of vehe-
mence and favagenefs in their faces, which was heightened by the fumes
of whifky, not yet altogether evaporated, greatly encreafed Mr. John-
fon's uneafmefs during thefe debates. It was in vain his woe-worn mind
endeavoured to find out their object, when the following morning he
was called to the two chiefs, who ordered him to mount a horfe, and
pufh on with them as faft as he could. He now imagined, that his laft
hour was come, but this time his fear was not of long duration. The
place wiiither he was conducted was not above five miles diflant ; it was
the habitation of Mr. DUCHOQUET, the merchant whom he had already
feen. After fome glafTes of whifky had been drunk, the bargain was
foon ftruck ; fix hundred fmall filver fhirt buckles, fuch as the common
people wear, conilituted the ranlbm, amounting to twenty -five Louis d'or.
Mr. Jolmfon's happinefs may be eafily conceived, but he did not yet feel
it in its whole extent ; which is generally the cafe in fuddcn tranfitions

from

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 207

from extreme wretchednefs to a ftate of felicity and peace. This rapid
and complete delivery from death and bondage appeared to him like a
dream, in which he dared not to indulge. Mr. Duchoquet endeavoured
to convince him of the reality of his happy fituation, and he began to
believe in it, when the next morning the two Indians, who had con-
dueled him thither, again made their appearance. Mr. Duchoquet was
himfelf of opinion, that they came to refcind the agreement, and con-
firmed his new guefl in the determination he had formed, to fell his life
dear, when one of the Indians came up to him unarmed, and faid fmii-
ing, that on the preceding day he had forgotten fomething, which be-
longed to him, which moll certainly he muft have miffed, and which
they came to return to him. It was a code of laws for Virginia, which his
mailers had left him during his journey. Mr. Johnfbn was lefs ieniible
of the delicacy of this conducl, which even among' refined Europeans
would have been confidered as a proof of great attention, than happy on
account of the perfect fecurity, which this behaviour of his former maf-
ters guaranteed to him, and which continued undifturbed by any further
accident.

Not being able to reach the fettled parts of America without a guide,
he was neceffitated to wait the feafon, when Mr. Duchoquet ufually
went to. Canada. Until that period he continued with him in his habi^
tation, and affiiled him in his trade with the Indians. This afforded him
an opportunity of getting acquainted with feveral tribes, whofe manners
and cuftoms differed but little from thofe of the Shawanefe. Unac-
quainted with their language, he could not himfelf collecl much informa-
tion concerning them ; and beiides, he was too much occupied by hrs
eager, defire of being reflored to his family and friends, to ftudy the man-
ners and habits of iavages, whom he was anxious to quit. He learned,
however, from his hoft, that all the tribes in that neighbourhood believe
in a Supreme Being, and in the duration of the exiilance of the foul,
after the clofe of this mortal life. They hold, that the punimment of
thofe, who have rendered themfelves guilty of wicked deeds, and with
them none are wicked deeds but inactivity and cowardice in hunting and
warfare, and perfidy to their friends, confifls, in their being removed after

death

203 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

death into unhealthy woods, where there is no other game but fmall birds;
while they, who have conftantly obferved an honeft, gallant conduct, are
tranfplanted into forefts, abounding with the largeft game, of which the
numbers never diminim. He farther was informed by his hoft, that In-
dian women, called in their language fquaws, are kept by their hufbands
in a fort of flavery, frequently beaten, and in cafe of adultery often
maimed by them a punimment which they are much inclined to in-
flict. .Girls, or unmarried women, on the contrary enjoy full liberty, to
gratify their defires as they pleafe ; and fo far from their forfeiting by
this gratification the efteem of the men, a woman is held in little efti-
mation by the Indians, who, previous to her marriage, has not been en-
gaged in fbme amorous intrigue : " for," fay they, " difdained as me has
been by all men, Ihe is unworthy of love." According to his obferva-
tion, the Shawanefe are lazy, imprudent, melancholy, filent, and with-
out thought for the coming day. As to the general character of the In-
-dians, he knew, that, whatever acls of cruelty they may exercife againft
their prifoners, in particular againft fuch, as they take in time of war,
they are in their friendship true and faithful to a degree, which has long
become obiblete among civilized nations.

At the beginning of June Mr. Duchoquet fet out with his gueft on
his journey to Canada. Lake Erie was but fifty miles diftant. They
embarked there for Detroit, where Mr. Duchoquet refides. But, before
they reached Lake Erie, they had to pals the fmall lake Sandufky. A
violent guft of wind drove them to a fmall ifland in the middle of this
lake, inhabited by two Indian tribes. Mr. Johnfon was there invited
with his friend to a grand feaft, given by a family in celebration of the
recovery of an Indian lady. The feaft confined of a grand meal, pre-
ceded by a great deal of dancing around a large fire. Almoft all the in-
habitants of the ifland were invited. A fmall painted itick iupplies
among the Indians the ufe of our cards of invitation ; and thefe dances,
thefe banquets, and large fires, are religious rites, deemed by the Indians
extremely efficacious in curing their fick ; in all probability they lefs ob-
flrucl; their recovery at leaft, than the prefcriptioris of many phyficians

might do.

Mr.

BY THE DVK.E DE LA. ROCHEPO'UCAULT LIANCOL'KT. 2O<)

Mr. Johnfon reached Detroit on the 1 3th of June ; and there fepa-
rated from Mr. Duchoquet. The Engliili governor ordered him to be
conveyed acrofs Lake Erie in a king's yacht. Thence he went in an-
other vcflcl to the celebrated cataract of Niagara, to conceive an ade-
quate idea of which, is beyond the powers of human fancy. From this
jftupendous water-fall he proceeded in a boat along the banks of Lake
Ontario, and thence on the river Ofwego to Albany, New York, and
Virginia, where, having been afflicted fix w r eeks by fate, favages, and
mufquitoes, he rejoined his family, whom he had utterly dcfpaired of
ever feeing again ; happy, that fo many fufferings terminated in this for-
tunate, but unexpected event.

The Hiftory of PEGGY FLEMMIXG.

Peggy Flemming continued with the Shawanefe, when Mr. Johnfon
was, by their chief, delivered up to the two Indians of the tribe of the
Mingoes. But he did not find her again, when he was furrendered back
to his former matters. Two or three of them had carried her off; and
after a journey of a few days, given her to three Cherokees, whom they
met in the woods, and who carried her to Sandufky, where Duchoquet
and Johnfon faw her, without being able to obtain from her one finglc
word ; undoubtedly in confequence of a prohibition of her prefent mat-
ters, who ufed her more rudely than the former had done. Some days
after, thefe Indians brought her into the neighbourhood of the lake San-
dufky, where they pitched their tents, and being much pleafed with the
iurrounding country, determined to pafs fome days in their camp. Mr.
MAC-!NTOSH, partner of Mr. Duchoquet, proceeded thither, on the firft
intelligence that a white woman was in the hands of the Indians, with a
view to redeem her. A young Virginian, who, fome years before, had
been taken prifoner by the Wyandots, and by them adopted as a member
of their tribe, accompanied him thither. He happened to know the
whole family of Peggy Flemming, and to be perfonally acquainted with
her. Being much liked and refpected by the chief of the tribe, he fo-
licited of him the favour, to procure him this captive from the Indians,

E e afTerting,

210 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

averting, that fhe was his fitter. The aged chief, in compliance with his
requeft, paid the three Cherokees a vifit, and after the ufual compli-
ments expreffed his wifh, that they might either give or fell him this
young woman, in whom he profeffed to take the moft lively interefr..
The Indians gave him a denial in terms, which grew peremptory in pro-
portion as his entreaties became more carneft. They threatened, that
they would rather kill both him and her, than give her up. The old
chief, being the weaker party, was obliged to yield. But the next morn-
ing he came before break of day, attended by twenty Indians of his tribe.
Peggy Flemming was tied to a tree, around which the three Cherokees
were lying in a profound fleep. The Wyandots feized her ; the old
chief cut himfelf the ropes, with which fhe was tied, and as foon as he
got her into his power, gave the three Cherokees fome hundred fmall
filver buckles, with which they were obliged to content themfelves.
Peggy Flemming was delivered up by the old chief to his favourite
WHITAKER (this was the name of the Virginian), who was become a
Wyandot Indian, firft from neceffity, and afterwards from choice. She
was provided with clothes, and carefully nurfed by this tribe. Whitaker
had married a young Indian woman, who took the greateft care of her.
Soon after, me was conducted under an efcort of men and women of this
.tribe through the midfl of the woods to the banks of the Ohio, oppofite
to Point Pleafant, where Mr. Johnfon learned from her the particulars of
her adventures, and where me now lives, in the twenty-eighth year of her
age.

The Hlftory of JAMES SKUYL.

It will be recollected, that Mr. Johnfon was feparated from James
Skuyl on the fourth or fifth day of their march. The latter, with part
of the troops, proceeded by a different road to the habitations of the
Shawanefe, where he was infulted, beaten, and otherwife ill ufed. On
his arrival, his wound was almofl mortified, owing to the exceffive
fatigues of the journey, and the flings of the mufquitoes. He was, never-
thelefs, kept to the hardefl labour of the tribe, i, e. he was employed to

cultivate

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 211

cultivate the ground. It is in general the employment of prifoners, if
they have any, to relieve the women of a part of the toils, which have
fallen to their lot. James Skuyl, though extremely uneafy on account of
his Situation and future fate, yet could not think of making any attempt to
efcape through forefts, where at every ftep he ran the riik of falling in
with Indians. The fuccefs of fiich an undertaking was fo highly im-
probable, as to preclude every idea of it. Yet being one day informed by
a woman, in whofe company he ufed to work, and who fcemed to fym~
pathife in his fufferings, that he would be burnt within two days, he was
irrefiftibly impelled, to try every means of efcaping fo terrible a death.
Furnilhcd with a mufket, and fome cakes of Indian corn, he ventured,
one night, to elope from the habitation, in which he was guarded. He
ftole through the woods, and reached the bank of the river Miami. Here
he was obliged to leave behind his mufket, though it ferved, at once, for his
defence and fubliflence. Having fattened his cakes to his head, he fwam
acrofs the river. He met great numbers of Indians, in fpite of his anxi-
ous endeavours to avoid them ; nay, he found himfelf under the neceflfity
of paffing by fbme of their habitations. The care he had taken in paint-
ing himfelf, fome Indian words, which he had learned, during his capti-
vity, and his firm deportment, gave him the appearance of an Indian, and
from this fuppofition he was actually feveral times afliftcd in his flight.
When he thought himfelf out of danger, he had nearly fallen by one
which he leafl fufpecled. Having reached the bank of Lake Ohio, he
intended to crofs it in a veflcl, which he happened to find, in order to
reach the ifthmus ; the ferryman refufed to take 'him on board, as he
miftook him for a fpy, who intended firfl to feduce him, and then to
punim him, if he fhould yield to his intreaties. He alfo told him, that
the preceding evening a troop of Shawanefe had fearched the banks of
the river in queft of a prifoner, who had made his efcape on the day be-
fore that of his intended execution. He could not but recognife him-
felf in this defcription ; celerity w r as therefore of the utmoft importance,
and yet he was compelled to repair to the mailer of the veflel, whofe ha-
bitation was two miles diftant. He informed him, that he was the pri-

E e 2 foncr

212 TRAVELS IN XORTH AMERICA,

foner, of whom the Shawanefe were in fearch, and this man, fortunately
more humane and lefs fcrupulous than his fervant, not only confented to his
going on board, but would alfo carry him over himfelf, that he might fee
him fafe beyond all danger. Having arrived at Detroit, he traverfed Ca-
nada, and the Northern States, and at length reached Great Brayercourt-
houfe, where he has fettled. At leaft he has hitherto given up the trade
to Kentucky.

The Htftory e/', WILLIAM PHLYN.

The diflrefles of William Phlyn, who was delivered up to that tribe of
the Cherokees called Chikamages, inhabiting a diftrift adjacent to the
great river Miami, confifled in his having been tortured two days together,
until the fire put a period to his wretched exiftence. He loft his life, a
few days after his arrival at the habitations of the Indians. James Skuyl,
on his journey to the town of the Shawanefe, faw the fpot, where he had
been burnt the preceding evening, but was not able to collecl: any farther
information concerning the fate of this unfortunate man.

Although the three laft {lories contain but few particulars, and are
not infeparably connecled with that of Mr. Johnfon : yet they will not,
I think, be found altogether uninterefting, as they, in fpme meafure,
ferve to complete his hiftory. An acquaintance with that gentleman
cannot but confidcrably heighten the joy, which his fortunate deliver-
ance mufl excite in every feeling mind, and {lamp his reports with the
authority of indubitable truth.

I have forgotten to mention, that the two whites, who by their lamen-
tation decoyed Mr. Johnfon and his companions, effe&ed their efcape
the fecond night, when the Indians, after the capture of the two veflels,

were almoft all of them intoxicated with whifky. Mr. Johnfon had

ftrong grounds to fufpecl, that the Indians, from motives of friendfhip
or ofgratitu.de for their alliilance in the capture of fo rich a booty, for-
warded their flight.

TOUR

( 213 )

TOUR THROUGH UPPER CANADA.

Saturday, the 20th of June, 1 795.

THE veiTcls, in which we croffed the river Niagara, belong to the
Englifh, and are, for this reafon, in a better condition than the major
part of the American veflels or ferries, which are entirely left to the
will and pleafure of the owners, without any public officer taking the
leaft notice of their condition, and providing for the fafety of travellers.
The ferry confifted in a vcffel of confiderable capacity, the fides of which
were one foot and a half high ; it was tolerably ftaunch, and fufficiently
large, to contain five horfes without any apparent danger. The mafter
of the verTel is directed to write down the names of the paflengers ; our's
were already known. General Simcoe, governor of Upper Canada, in-
formed of bur journey by Mr. HAMMOND, the Englifh ambafTador to
the United States had long ago given notice by the poft of our expected
arrival. Mr. Guillemard, w r ho had croifed over on the preceding evening,
had announced our intended arrival on the next morning ; and the Captain
of an Englifh frigate, which was receiving fome repairs on the oppofite
bank, fent us his boat, as foon as he perceived us. Our guide, PONDRIT,
had preceded us to the river to call the ferrymen ; and the ferry arriving
fooner than the boat, of the deftination of which we were ignorant, we
ftepped into the former. The paflage from the American to the Englim
fide requires four or five minutes, and from the Englirti to the American
ihore about a quarter of an hour. Fort Erie {lands on the iliore of the
lake, about two miles above the ferry. The commandant had defired the
captain of the frigate to fupply his place, until he mould be able to vifit us
himfelf. We thought it right to return this at of civility, by immediately
fctting out to prefent to him our paflports. We did fo, though we were not
drerTed to pay a vifit of ceremony ; but the rain having made our appearance
frill worfe, we determined on drying our clothes at the inn, until the
weather ihould clear up, and permit us to proceed to the fort. We were

not

214 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

not yet drcfled, when the commandant arrived at the inn, and invited us
to dinner, acquainting us, at the fame time, that he was directed to fhew us
every civility in his power. This invitation was very agreeable to us ; a
dinner at a Governor's, after three day's travelling through woods, is a
real feafl. We accordingly attended him to the fort.

Fort Erie, as it is called, though we know not why,* confifls of fome
houfes roughly formed of wood, and furrounded with tottering palifa-
does. It has neither a rampart, a covert- way, nor any other works.
The buildings, which are all of them block-houfes, are inhabited by the
officers, fbldiers, and a commhTary of provifion. Without the precincts
of the fort, {land four fimilar houfes, deftined for the habitation of the
workmen, and a large magazine, or {lore-houfe, belonging to the king.
The upper {lory juts out beyond the ground floor, fo that all who mould
attempt to approach the {lore-houfe, might be eafily kept off with fire-
locks, by means of openings made in the upper ftory.*)' This fort is to
be confidered merely as a point of defence againft the Indians for the
Britifh trade on the lake, at the extremity of which it {lands. The term
FORT, in its ufual import, cannot by any means be applied to this place,
which is even now in a worfe fituation than formerly, fince the impend-
ing furrender of the forts {ituated on the oppofite fhore to the Ameri-
cans, leaves the Engliili no alternative, but to have either no forts at all
on this {ide of the lake, or to put thofe which they {hall maintain in a
refpedlable {late of defence. Fort Erie is garrifoned by a company of
the fifth regiment, the captain of which company is, at the fame time,
the commandant of the place. Captain PRATT holds this command at
prefent ; on account of his long fervice, he has been nominated major by
brevet. The duty of the foldiers, who form this garrifon, confifts in
{landing fentries ; but they are alfo obliged to ferve on board the {hips,
which belong to the government. Almoft all the provifion, and all
ammunition, without exception, come from England, and acrofs the

* Dr. Morfe fays, that Fort Erie is a ftrong fortification ; an aflbrtion, which it is im-
poffible to reconcile with the defcription given by the Duke, but by fuppofing it to have
undergone coniiderable improvement fince I195.'Tran/Iator.

t Buildings of this conftru&ion are very common in the United States, as well as in
Britiih America j they are called block-houfes. Anther.

lakes.

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 2] 5

lakes. The navigation on the river Niagara ends feven miles above Lake
Ontario, whence there is a land-conveyance as far as Chippeway, nine
miles diftant, where the navigation for boats and other fmall vcflels re-
commences, extending as far as Fort Erie. Here the goods, deftined for
Fort Detroit, are laden in mips, navigated by foldiers from Fort Erie to
Fort Chippaway. The return paiTage is extremely difficult ; and for
this laborious tafk, they are allowed only fifteen millings, to be diftri-
buted among five men, who compofe the crew.*

The foldiers have a garden, where they cultivate the necefTary vegeta-
bles, which by any other means they would not be able to procure. Their
allowance of provifion, which confifts in a pound of flour, a pound of
fait pork, four ounces of rice, and a little butter, a day, is, no doubt,
paid for by the government at a very high rate ; but to the foldiers it
is delivered for two pence halfpenny a ration, which is deducted from
their pay, amounting to fix pence per day. All the troops, quartered in
Canada, are treated in the fame manner. Another company of the fame
regiment is at Fort Chippaway, and the remaining eight companies form
the garrifon of Fort Niagara.^ Fort Detroit, and feveral other forts, which
the Engliih ftill hold in their poiTeffion, but which are to be given up to
the Americans, are garrifoned by the twenty-fifth regiment. Fort De-
troit flands at the end of Lake Erie, on the ftrait or river, which feparates
it from Lake St. Clair. It was erected about the year 1 740. The inha-
bitants are moitly French, and confrft, of about three hundred families.
It is faid to be in a very fkmriming condition. About one hundred ar-
tillerymen are diftributed in Detroit, Fort Niagara, and fome other places,
which I mall have occafion to mention. The troops generally remain
feven years in Canada, during which time the garrifons relieve each other
every year. But the war in Europe, and the fear of a rupture with Ame-
rica, have occasioned various alterations in thefe ordinary arrangements.
The regiments now remain three years in the fame place ; a change,
with which they alone are pleafed, to whofe lot it falls to garrifon the

* This, no doubt, is in addition to their pay as foldiers. Tranjlattr.
f Fort Niagara, as well as the other forts mentioned by the Author, were iiirrendercd
up to the Americans in July, 1796. Tranjlator*

fmall

21 6 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

fmall forts. For the fame reafons, the regiments at prefent have but
half their complements.

A flore-houfe, belonging to a private gentleman, is alfo included within
Fort Erie, but ftands apart from the buildings, which appertain to go-
vernment. In this magazine are warehoufed all the goods, which come
upwards, and are deftined for Detroit, as well as thofe which go down
the river to Niagara, Kingfton, Montreal, Quebec, &c. They are
forwarded to their places of deftination, either in boats, when they go
down the river, or in large veilels, when they are deftined for Detroit.
The trade on Lake Erie is carried on in four or five merchantmen, be-
fides three or four armed yachts belonging to the king.

Peltry is the chief commodity exported from Detroit ; but we alfo
faw feveral caiks of very fine maple fugar, made by the Indians. We
were informed, that the quantity of this article, which paries yearly
through this place, is very confiderable ; but were not able to learn its
exacT: value in money. The owner of the ftore-houfe hires, at times,,
about twenty Canadians, for the mipping and unfliipping of the goods,
for carrying them into the magazine, and tranfporting the boats by land
to the lower country. The Canadians no fooner learned, that we were
Frenchmen, than they exprefTed to us a fatisfa&ion, attachment, and re -
fpecT:, repeated demonftrations of which our peculiar iituation obliged
us to avoid.

The Chippaway, a king's yacht, commanded by Captain HAR A, arrived
here during our refidence in the fort. He had been feven days paffmg the
ftrait, which mips frequently clear in two days.

Hard cam or fpecie is extremely fcarce in this corner of the w 7 orld.
It can come only from Lower Canada, but they like to keep it in Quebec
and Montreal. Nay, the pay- mailer of the troops, on pretence that the
conveyance is dangerous, fends no fpecie for the troops, though he re-
ceives their pay in hard cam. He could molt certainly not refufe it to
the paymafters of the regiments, if, for that purpofe, they proceeded to
Montreal or Quebec, where he refides. But to undertake this journey at
the expence of the corps, would occafion too confiderable a deduction
from their money, which fhould reach its destination without the leaft

diminution.

BY THE DUKE DK LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOVKT. 2 I/

diminution. He accordingly remits it in bills of exchange* which are
paid in paper-money, that every one makes to any amount he choofes,
and which neverthelefs is univerfally received with a degree of confidence,
equal to that which obtained in France in the fecond year of the revolu-
tion. There are notes of this kind of only two pence in value. They are
fmall flips of paper, either written or printed, frequently without any
fignature, and moftly effaced and torn.

During our dinner feveral Indians arrived in boats. They formed a
fmall camp on the bank of the river, which we vifited on our return,
We experienced from them the moft cordial reception, to which, per-
haps, the ilate of one of our companions, not drffimilar to that in which
moft of thefe drinkers of rum found themfelves, contributed not a little.

Sunday, the 21/1 of June.

After a hearty breakfaft on board the Chippaway frigate, where we
learned, that this veffel, which is about four hundred tuns burthen,
and pierced for fixteen. guns, coils five thoufand pounds fterling ! a
proof of the enormous price of labour in this country we embarked
for Chippaway. Major Pratt infifted on our taking our paffage in a veiTel
belonging to government, as he had particular orders to that effect. He
manned it with fix foldiers, who were excellent hands at rowing ; and
alfo directed Lieutenant FAULKNER to attend us as far as Niagara. No 1
denial, on our part, could prevail with him to withhold this act of civi-
lity, which,, even during my profperity, would have embarraffcd me, and
which now bore the appearance of fcorn rather than politencfs. We
were, therefore, obliged to fubmit, and to ailume the air of perfonsf,
whofe rank demanded this diftinction. We were now approaching the
profpect of the Grand Cataract of Niagara, one of the principal objects
of our journey, and which I had long defired to fee. We formed, every
one of us, different ideas of this waterfall, according to our different
powers of fancy ; each ftroke of the oars brought us nearer to it, and our
attention being entirely turned to difcover the foam, and hear the noife,
we took but little notice of the banks of the river, w r hich, on the fide of
Canada, are tolerably fettled, of the uncommon width of its channel, or

F f the

216 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

the majeftic courfe of its ftream. At laft we heard the noife, and per-
ceived the fpray. The weather was rather unfavourable, fo that we could
not, at any confiderable diftance, enjoy this grand fpectacle. The rapidity
of the ftream, which is perceptible feveral miles from the falls, loon car-
ried us to Chippaway. A whole mile before you reach that place, you
mull keep clofe under the fhore, without which precaution the ftream
would foon involve the boat, and irrefiftibly hurl it to deftruction. You
muft even make the utmoft exertion in rowing to remount the Chippa-
way Creelt, from which the fort takes its name.

We had no fooner landed, than, with the utmoft impatience, we
haftened to the falls, fcarcely returning with due attention the civilities
we. experienced from Captain HAMILTON, commandant of the fort.
We accepted, however, his invitation to dinner, which on our account he
kindly deferred until four o'clock, mounted our horfes, and, with Lieu-
tenant Faulkner, proceeded to the falls. The diftance of Chippaway
from the falls, in a ftraight line, is but a mile and a half ; but the banks
of the river form fo many flexures, that the road, which winds along
them, is three miles long.

At Chippaway the grand fpectacle begins. The river, which has been
conftantly expanding from Fort Erie to this place, is here upwards of
three miles wide ; but on a fudden it is narrowed, and the rapidity of
the ftream redoubled by the declivity of the ground on which it flows,
as well as the fudden contraction of its bed. The channel is rocky ;
and the interfperfed fragments of rocks encreafe the violence of the
ftream. The country is flat and even to this point ; but here a range of
white rocks arifes on each fide of the river, which is contracted to half
a mile's breadth. This range is a branch of the Alleghany mountains*,
which, proceeding from Florida, previoufly to their reaching this point,
interfect the whole continent of America. The river, more clofely
hemmed in by- the rocks on the right, incroaching upon its channel,
branches into two arms, one of which flows along the bank, formed by

* This principal ridge of the Allegliany mountains, which extend north-cart and fouth-
eaft, nearly parallel to the fea coaft, about nine hundred miles in length, and from fixty to
one hundred and fifty and two hundred miles in breadth, is defcriptively named the back-
bone of the United States. Tranjl.

the

BY THE DUKE BE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOUIIT. 2 1C)

the rocks on the right ; and the other, far more confiderable, being fepa-
rated by a fmall ifland, makes flraight on to the left, and fwecps through
a bafon of ftone, which it fills with much foam and noife. At length,
being again obftru&ed by other rocks, which it meets on its right, it
alters its courfe with redoubled violence, and along with the .right arm
rumes down a perpendicular ledge of rocks one hundred and fixty feet
high*, nearly half concave, and probably worn out by the incefTant im-
petuofity of the waters. Its width is nearly equal to that of its bed,
the uniformity of which is only interrupted by an ifland, which feparates
the two. arms, refts unfhaken on its rocky bafis, and feems, as it .were,
to fwim between the two ftreams, which rufli down at once into this
ftupendous chafm. The waters of the lakes Erie, Michigan, St. Clair.
Huron, and Lake Superiour, and of the numerous rivers, emptying
themfelves into thefe lakes, incefTantly replace the water that thus
dafh.es down. The water of the falls tumbles perpendicularly on the
rocks. Its colour is, at times, a dark green, at others a foaming white,
brilliant throughout, and difplaying a thoufand variegations, as it is
ftruck by the rays of the fun, or, according to the time of the day,
the flate of the atmofphere, the force of the wind, &c. The water,
which rumes down the rocks, rifes in part in a thick column of mift,
often towering above the height of the falls, and mixing with the
clouds. The remainder, broken in its perpendicular defcent by frag-
ments of rocks, is in continual agitation ; fpouts and foams, and carts on
fliore logs of wood, whole trees, boats, and wrecks, which the ftream has
fwept along in its courfe. The bed of the river, formed by the two ridges
of rocks which extend a great way farther, is flill more narrowed, as if part
of this mighty ftream had vanimed during the fall, or w T ere fwallowed
up by the earth. The noife, agitation, irregularity, and rapid defcent of
the ftream, continue feven or eight miles farther on, and the river does
not become fufficiently placid for a fafe paflage till it reaches Queens-
townf , nine miles from the falls.

* Other accounts fay, that the perpendicular height at the cataraft is only one hundred
.and thirty-feven or one hundred and fifty feet. Tranjl.

t In Upper Canada, on the weft fade of the ftiaits of Niagara. Tranjl.

F f 2 I crept

210 TRAVELS IX NORTH AMERICA,

I crept down to the cataract ; the defcent is very difficult ; perpendi-
cular fteps, hewn out of trees, caverns, and projecting rocks, the fcattered
fragments of which warn the traveller of the danger from the defcent,
without offering any hold, except fome decayed bufhes, which the im-
prudent adventurer, who mould place any dependence on them, would
carry with him into the unfathomed abyfs. Every thing feems calcu-
lated to ftrike with terror \ but curiofity is as heedlefs as any other
paffion. The certain profpecl: of a fplendid fortune would hardly induce
me to attempt, what I at this moment did from the mere impulfe of cu-
riofity. I frequently crawled along on both hands ; the zeal with which
1 purfued my objecl gave me a dextrous activity, which I was not con-
fcious of pofTeiling. I feveral times abandoned myfelf entirely to chance,
and thus 1 toiled a mile and half to reach the foot of this ftupendous ca-
taract. The pleafmg confcioufnefs of having attained our end is the only
reward of the exertions, by which we have obtained fuccefs. In the
courfe of our life we frequently meet with fimilar instances.

Near this fpot is a whirlpool, the fpray of which drenches your clothes
even at a diftance. The columns of foam, arifmg from the falls, mix
again with the defcending flream. The bafon itfelf is hidden by this
thick cloud, and the tremendous noife, which is more violent here than
any where elfe, is the only enjoyment to be attained. You may proceed
a few paces on pieces of rock, lying between the column, of water and the
rocks from which it rufhes down ; but here you are completely fequef-
tered from the world, you are even deprived of the profpecl: of the falls
by the column of water, which, by its denfity and motion, intercepts the
free accefs of air to fuch a degree, that fufTocation muft unavoidably be*
the refult of a long continuance in this place..

It bimpomble to deferibe the impreffion, which this cataract made up-
on our minds. Fancy, which had long cherifhed the hope of viewing it,
now ofTered pi&ures, which might leem exaggerated, yet werc much in-
ferior to the reality. To attempt a defcription of the impreffion w r e
felt, would be equivalent to a defcription of the falls ; an attempt far
exceeding our powers. The enthufiafm, which feized my foul at the
afpecl: of this magnificent fpeclacle, was too powerful to be weakened by

our

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 221

our unpleafant journey back to the Fort ; and it was not until I arrived
at Captain Hamilton's, that I found leifurc to notice my wearinefs, my
hunger, my bruifes, the miferable condition of my clothes, and the time
of the day. It was two o'clock.

Poor Lieutenant Faulkner, who thought himfelf obliged to attend my
Highnefs, unfortunately partook not of my enthufiafm, but merely aflbci-
ated in my ftruggles with various obftacles, and bore his mare of con-
tufions and fatigue. In fpite of his exceffive politenefs, he feemed ex-
tremely fad and dull, until fome glafles of wine had cheered up his fpirits.

Captain Hamilton, commandant of Fort Chippaway, which is even in-
ferior in ftrength to Fort Erie, was fo kind as to detain us to dinner.
The ennui naturally refulting from this dreary poft, the moft dull of any,
is beguiled by the fociety of a handfome, fweet, and lovely wife, and fix
children, who conftantly furround him. They both received us in that
plain, cordial, and eafy manner, which characlerifes perfons who have
constantly frequented the beft fociety,

Chippaway was formerly the chief place of an Indian tribe, which
now inhabits the borders of Virginia. The carriage rendered neceflary
by the water-fall and its continued effects ends here. Previous to the
treaty of peace of 1/83, veflels were laden and difcharged on the other
fide of the river near fort Slufher *, oppofite Chippaway.

Befides the barracks, here as at Fort Erie, are ftore-houfes, which be-
long to government ; and others, appertaining to merchants. The whole
village confifts of a tolerable inn, and a fmall number of other houfes ;
the ftagnant water of the creek renders it very unhealthy, and to this
circumftance are imputed the endemic fevers, which every year afflict
the inhabitants of this place.

Monday, the 21 d of June.

We left Chippaw r ay early in the morning, with 'an intention of once-
more viuting the falls. The rain, which fell in torrents, could not de-
ter us from car defign. I faw it now from, a fpot, from which Mr. de
Blacons had viewed it the preceding evening, and to which he defired to

* The author mifnames the fort, which he calls fort Skuyler.^ Tranfl.

conducl

222 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

conducl us. This place is known in the country by the name of Tabie-
Rock, and forms a part of the rock over which the river precipitates itfelf. *
You here ftand in the midft of its bed, and almoft in the water, fo that you
can, with perfect fafcty, fee the river ruming down at your feet ; but, ad-
vancing only two paces, you would be hurried to deftruclion. On this
fpot you alfo enjoy the beautiful profpecl: of the foaming water darning
along over the rapids of the awful fall, from which you are not feparated
by any intervening objecl, and of the tremendous whirlpool, which en-
gulfs it. It is from this fpot, that this wonder of nature mould be
viewed, if you would fee it but from one fpot. But it ought to be con-
templated from all fides ; your aftonimment will conftantly rife, and you
will behold and admire in awful filence.

The defcent is more eafy to the Table-rock than to any other fpot.
It is much to be regretted, that the government of a people, which fur-
paffes all other nations for fondnefs in travelling and curiofity, mould not
have provided convenient places for obferving this celebrated phenome-
non, at all poffible points of view. It is pleaded in excufe, that the num-
ber of travellers, whom curiofity leads to this fpot, is inconfiderable ;
that even they, who travel this way on account of bufmefs, and flop
here to view the falls, are few in number ; that only hunting Indians
and idle children form the idea of creeping down to the falls ; and that
confequcntly nobody would be benefited by the money expended in pro-
viding an eafy accefs. Yet all thefe pleas cannot jufriiy a faving of thirty
dollars, for which expence the greateft curiofity in the known world
would be rendered acceffible.

It is fuperfluous to mention, that, notwithstanding the feverity of the
winter in this country, the cataratf, as well as the river above it, are
never frozen. But this is not the cafe with the lakes, and fmaller rivers,
which fupply it with water. Enormous flakes of ice rum conftantly
down this cataract, when the thaw fets in, without being entirely darned
to pieces on the rocks ; and thus are frequently piled in huge mafles, up
to half its height. With the noife, occafioned by the falls, we were lefs
ftruck than we expecled ; and Mr. Guillemard, as well as myfelf, who
had both feen the Rhine-fall near Schafhaufen, could not but acknow-
ledge,

BY THE DUKE DE LA. ROCKEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 223

ledge, that the noife it produces is far more ftriking. Yet, I muft re-
peat it again and again, that nothing can {land the tcft of comparifon
with the Falls of Niagara. Let no one expect to find here fomething
plcafmg, wildly beautiful or romantic ; all is wonderfully grand, awful,
fublime ; every power of the foul is arrefted ; the impreffion ftrikes
deeper, the longer you contemplate, and you feel more ftrongly the im-
poffibility of any cxpreffions doing juftice to your perceptions and feelings.

About a mile above the falls, two corn-mills and two faw-mills have
been conftructed in the large bafon, formed by the river on the left. We
examined, with peculiar attention, the moft diftant of them. It is the
moft remarkable chiefly on this account, that the logs are cut here
into boards, thrown into the Chippaway creek near its mouth, and by
means of a fmall lock conveyed into a canal, formed within the bed of
the river by a double row of logs of timber, fattened together and float-
ing on the water. The breaking of thefe is prevented by other large
balks floating at a certain diftance from each other, which form, as it
were, the bafis of this artificial canal. The water retains in this canal
the rapidity of the current, and conveys the logs into the lower part
of the mill, where, by the fame machinery which moves the faws, the
logs are lifted upon the jack and cut into boards. Only two faws at a
time are employed in this mill. The power of the water is almoft
boundlefs, but the prefent wants of the country do not require a greater
number of faws. The very intelligent owner of the mill has conflruclied
it on a plan, which admits of the addition of a greater number of courfes,
according as thefe fhall be required by an increafed confumption. On
the fame principle he has built his corn- mill, which has at prefent only
four courfes. The miller s dues for grinding, as fixed by the legiflative
power, amounts to a twelfth throughout all Upper Canada, and for iiiw-
ing logs to a moiety of the wood fa wed.

In the courfe of laft year a fulphureous fpring was difccvercd at a few
yards diftaiice from the bank of the river, which was, however, filled up by
the fall of earth crumbling from its verge. This fpring has again of late
ihown itfelf in the canal, which conveys the blocks to the mill. A flonc,

laid

224 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMEBICA,

laid over the fpring, prevents its water from being mixed with that of the
river. On the approach of a fire-brand the vapour or fteam kindles, af-
fumes the colour of burning fpirit of wine, and burns down to the bot-
tom. Much time will probably elapfe, before an enquiry fhall be infti-
tuted, whether this fpring be endowed with any medicinal- powers.

An iron-mine, too, has lately been difcovered near Chippaway creek.
A company has aflociated for the working of this mine, and refolved on
creeling an iron-forge in the vicinity of the falls. But this they dare not
eftablifh without the governor's permimon ; for the mother country ftill
perfifts in fupplying all its colonies with its own manufactures ; and re-
fufes to reliriquifh a monopoly, that has already coft it that part of Ame-
rica, which compofes the United States *. But the company hope to
obtain the defired permiffion.

The land all along the road from Chippaway to New York is feem-
ingly good, though not of the beft quality, and exhibits a confiderable
number of dwelling- houfes. The grants of land, made by government in
this country, are fome of them of a recent, others of a more ancient date ;
the firft fettlements are hardly ten years old, and the major part only
three or four. The houfes, entirely built w r ith logs, are better conftructed,
and more cleanly than in moft other parts of the United States. The
mode of agriculture appears to be much the fame, as in other parts of the
Union. The common price of land in this neighbourhood is one pound,
New York currency, or two dollars and half an acre, if the proportion of
the cleared ground to the wooded be as forty to two hundred, or nearly fo.
Peculiar circumftances, a favourable fituation, more extenfive buildings,
&.c. enhance the price. Throughout this whole trad: of country, la-
bourers are not eafily procured ; and they receive, befides their board,
from five to fix millings per day. The winter continues only from the
middle of December to the beginning of April.

The roads from fort Erie to Newark are tolerably open, and lie for the
moft part over a fandy ground, which renders it more eafy to keep them
in repair. The frequent paffage to and fro, in this part of the country,

* Impolitic difputes, chiefly relative to the right of taxation, not this monopoly, occa-
fioaed the difmemberment of the Britifh Empire in America. Tranjl.

does,

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 225

does not deftroy them. Such commodities, as are deftined for the upper
country, are unfhipped in Queen's Town, and goods, expedited from it,
are embarked in this place. The different buildings, conftrufted three
years ago, confifh of a tolerable inn, two or three good ftore-houfes, fome
fmall houfes, a block-houfe of ftone, covered with iron, and barracks,
which fliould be occupied by the regiment of General Simcoc, but which
are now unoccupied, the regiment being quartered in another part of the
province. Mr. Hamilton, an opulent merchant, who is concerned in the
whole inland trade of this part of America, poffefles, in Queen's Town, a
very fine houfe, built in the Englifh ftyle ; he has alfo a farm, a diftillery,
and tan-yard. This merchant bears an excellent character ; he is a mem-
ber of the Legiflaturc of Upper Canada, but at prefent in England.

The portage was formerly on the other fide of the river; but as this,
by virtue of the treaty, falls under the American dominion ; government
has removed it hither. The whole country, though extremely fandy, is
covered with oak, chemuts, and fine hickory trees, and fuch parts, as are
better watered, bear, in common with all other parts of America, am and
maple-trees.

It was on this fpot, that Mr. de la JONQUIERE, commiffioned by the
French Court to fecure the free navigation of the lakes to French traders,
formed his firft fettlemcnts, which by permiffion, and under the protec-
tion of the Indian tribe of the Yonnowmouans, (who, with many other
tribes, have vanifhed from this part of the globe), were afterwards tranf-
ferred to Niagara.

From the civil treatment we experienced, as fbon as we reached the
boundaries of the government of General Simcoe, we could not but ex-
peel: a kind reception on his part ; arid yet the event exceeded our expec-
tation. No fooner was he informed of our arrival, than he fent his adju-
tant-general to invite us to dinner. Having juft alighted from his horfe,
he could not come himfelf. We accepted his invitation, and mortly af-
ter dinner, he entreated us to remain with him, to ileep in his houle, and
confider ourfelves as at home. To refufe this invitation would have ill
correfponded with the politenefs of his conduct, of the fmcerity of which

G g we

226 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

we were convinced. By accepting it, we greatly promoted our own
convenience, as we had no vifhs to pay in the town, which is full half a
mile diftant from the Governor's houfe, and could not but expect to be
moft agreeably entertained in his fociety, and to obtain from him the
moft fatisfactory information refpecting the country, which fo forcibly
engaged our curiofity and attention.

We foon understood, that we mould be obliged to continue longer in
Niagara than we originally defigned. On my acquainting General Simcoe
with my intention to proceed to Quebec, he informed me, that, without
the exprefs permiffion of Lord DORCHESTER, it was not in his power to
allow any foreigner to enter Lower Canada ; he even mewed us the Go-
vernor-general's pofitive orders to that effect, imied in the month of Oc-
tober, and occafioned by the conduct of fome Frenchmen. Although the
wife meamres of prevention, adopted by the Governor- general, as well as
all other fteps tending to avert a revolution, met with my fulleft appro-
bation ; yet I could not but find it extremely unpleafant, that Mr. Ham-
mond in fo pofitive a manner Should have allured me of Lord Dor-
chefter's perfect " concurrence with him on the fcore of my intended
journey. On his afferting, that a paiTport, granted by him, was the only
Sufficient mean to enable a foreigner to proceed from the United States-
into Lower Canada, I entreated him, in addition to this paiTport, to
write a letter to Lord Dorchefter, who, by ordering the fubordinate com-
mander to let us pafs, would have faved us a tedious delay in our journey,
and the uneafmefs naturally arifing from our incommoding Governor
Simcoe for fuch a length of time. Yet, we were neceffitated to conceal
our dhTatisfaction, and wait until Lord Dorchefter could fend his anfwcr
to Kingfton, to which I requefted rjim to direct it.

I employed my long refidence in Niagara, to acquire fome knowledge
of the country, the attainment of which was greatly facilitated by the
generous opennefs of Governor Simcoe.

So late as in the year 1791, the adminiftration of Upper Canada was
feparated from that of Lower Canada. It formerly conftituted a part
of the province of Quebec. The adminiftration of it was much the fame

as-

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LlANCOURT.

as that of the Englilh colonies, and depended entirely on the will and
pleafure of the Governor ; yet was undoubtedly here conducted with flill
more precaution, not only becaufe Lord Dorchefter, by all accounts, is a
man of a mild and juft difpofition, but alfo becaufe the leflbn, given by
the United States, will not prove altogether fruitlefs. The Britifti Parlia-
ment, at the fame time when it divided thefe two traces of the province
of Quebec into Upper and Lower Canada, gave them a reprefentativ^
form of government, which, though all the fprings of this political ma-
chine are yet in the hands of the Governor-general, is framed in fuch a
manner, that if this country mould grow more populous, more opulent
and enlightened, it will not prove an arduous tafk, to refcue the manage-
ment of public affairs from this influence, which at prefent is very great,
and, in the actual ftate of things, perhaps abfolutely neceffary.

Lord Dorchefter is Governor-general of the Britifh poffeffions in
North America ; the governors of the different provinces arc only lieu-
tenant-governors ; who, whenever he appears, yield to his iuperior au-
thority ; and are alfo refponfible to him in all military affairs, if they be
gentlemen of the army, which is by no means an indifpenfible qualifica-
tion for the place of a lieutenant-governor. In regard to ftate-affairs of
whatever nature and complexion, the lieutenant-governor corresponds
immediately with the Englifh mmiftry. It is from them he receives his
orders and mftru&ions, without being obliged to communicate them to
the governor-general, who is not even poffeffed of the right, on leaving
the different diftricls of his government, to give the fmalleft directions for
what is to be done during his abfence. For this reafbn the Governor-
general, except when prcffmg military arrangements call him from the
chief town of his government, conflantly refides there, while the lieute-
nant-governor, who has no bufmefs in that place, keeps as much as pof-
fible at a diftance from it. But as no accounts of any public expendi-
ture pafs, without being figned by the Governor-general, he poffefles a
powerful influence over all Ibrts of operations and proje&s, which at leaft
require his approbation ; an influence that extends through all the dif*
ferent branches of his government.

G e 2 Th

228 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

The Britiih poffeffions in North America are divided into Upper ajid
Lower Canada, New Brunfwick, and Nova Scotia. Only the firft two of
thefe provinces are governed by the new conftitution. The others are
governed as in former times.

The boundary between Upper and Lower Canada lies about one hun-
dred miles above Montreal *. The extent of Upper Canada far exceeds
that of Lower Canada, as, the weftern boundary being undefined, it
comprifes all the known and unknown countries, extending as far as the
Pacific or Great Sea, and is bounded northwards alfo by unknown coun-
tries. The population of Lower Canada is eftimated at about one hun-
dred and forty thoufand fouls, and that of Upper Canada at thirty thou-
fand, but this eftimate feems rather high-]*.

The leading articles of the new conftitution of Canada are as fol-
lows :

That the Province of Quebec be divided into two provinces ; Upper
and Lower Canada.

That it have two houfes of legiflature ; one hereditary ; one elective.

That Upper Canada be deftined for the reception chiefly of Britifli
fettlers.

That the allotment of lands in Upper Canada be, under certain reftric-
tions, left to the authority of the local legiflature.

That the reprefentative houfe of legiflature be feptennially elected.

That the clergy be provided for by an ample allotment of lands,
amounting to one-feventh.

That certain titles of honour be connected with the right to a feat in
the hereditary houfe of legiflature.

* The line between Upper and Lower Canada commences at a ftone boundary on the
N. bank of Lake St. Francis, in St. Lawrence River, in the cove W. of Point au Boudet,
hence northerly to Otta was River and to its fource in Lake Tomifcaning, thence dueN. till
it ftrikes the boundary of Hudfon's Bay or New Britain. Tranjl.

t Dr. MORSE eftimates the population of both thefe provinces at one hundred and fifty
thoufand fouls. Lower Canada, in 1794, contained one hundred and thirteen thoufand
and twelve inhabitants, Tranjl,

That

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LTANCOURT.

That the liberty of introducing more or lefs of the municipal law of
England be left to the difcretion of the Provincial Aflembly.

Upper Canada is a new country, or rather a country yet to be formed.
It was probably for' this reafon General Simcoe accepted the government
of it. He was fully aware of the advantages, which his native land might
derive from fuch a colony, if it attained perfection ; and imagined, that
means might be found adequate to this purpofe. This hope was the
only incitement, which could impel a man of independent fortune, and,
as he fays, of confined willies, to leave the large and beautiful eftates he
poflefles in England, and to bury himfelf in a wildcrnefs among bears
and favages. Ambition at leaft appears not to have been his motive, as
a man in General Simcoe's fituation is furnifhed with abundant means of
diftinguiming himfelf by ufeful activity, without removing to a great di-
tance from his native country, where, in fuch a cafe, he is almoft fure of
being forgotten. But, whatever have been his motives, his defign has
been attended with confequences highly beneficial.

The plan conceived by General Simcoe for peopling and improving
Upper Canada feems, as far as he has communicated it to us, extremely
wife and well arranged. The central point of all his fettlements, and
of the population of this country, he means to place between Detroit
ISver and the plantations already eftablifhed in Lower Canada, within a
fquare formed by Lake Ontario, Lake Erie, Detroit River, and Lake
Huron. From a fuppofition that the Fort of Niagara would certainly
remain in the poiTeffion of the Engliih, he at nrft intended to make
Newark the chief town of his government. But, iince it has been de-
cided*, that this fort is to be given up, he has been obliged to alter his
plan. A chief town or capital muft not be feated on the frontiers, and
much lefs under the guns of the enemy's fort. He has fmce thought of
York, fituated on the northern bank of Lake Ontario, nearly oppofite to
Niagara f ; it is in this place he has quartered his regiment, and he in-

* By. the Treaty of 1194.

t York, defigned to be the feat of the government of Upper Canada, is fituated on the
north-weft fide of Lake Ontario, forty miles north by weft from Niagara Fort, and one
hundred and twenty weft-fouth-weft from Kjngfton Tranjl.

tends

230 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

tends to remove thither himfelf when he fhall withdraw from the fron-
tiers.

York, from its extent, fecurity, and fituation, offers an excellent road.
The communication between Lake Ontario and Lake Huron is facilitated
by feveral rivers and fmall lakes. The furrounding territory poiTefles a
good foil, and affords all poffible means to improve the trade on the lake.
Even in a military point of view its Situation is very advantageous. The
banks of Lake Ontario are likely to be firft peopled by the Americans, and
to become moft populous ; and Lower Canada will always prove to thern
an object of jealoufy and envy rather than Upper Canada. On this ground
it is extremely important, to choofe a fituation, which renders it more eafy
to fuccour fuch points as are moft expofed to an attack. Yet Governor
Simcoe feems to have relinquifhed the idea of eftabliming his refidence,
and the feat of government, at York. He intends to remove them to
the banks of a river, which is to be found in all maps under the name of
De la Franche, and which he has named the Thames. This river, which
rifes between Lake Huron and Lake Ontario, but is not yet fufficiently
explored, is fuppofed not to be far diftant from the Miami or Great
River. It ilow r s four or five miles in a fouth-weft direction, and empties
itfelf into Lake St. Clair. It is the Governor's intention, to build
Jiis chief town, to which he has already given the name of Lon-
don, about two hundred miles diftant from this lake. A communica-
tion between this river and another, which falls into Lake Huron, may
be eafily eftablifhed, in the vicinity of Gloucefter, and by land-carriage a
communication may alfo be opened with Lake Ontario. The Gover-
nor is at the fame time mafter of thefe two lakes, as well as of Lake
Erie, which, though fifteen miles diftant, he can reach without any in-
tervening portage, but one of three miles. Moreover^ that part of
Lake Erie, which lies neareft to the projected capital (Long Point), is
exaclly the moft important point for the defence of the lake, and on this
point, which lies oppofite to the American fettlement on the penirifula, the
Governor means to form a harbour, and erect confiderable works for its
protection. If the capital be fituated on this fpot, it will of confequence
feveral advantages, befides thofe which York would afford. It

ftands

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 231

ftands nearer to the centre of the expected population ; is more remote
from the parts belonging to the Indians ; and the Governor intends to
ftation the troops, which yet occupy the forts to be delivered up to-
the Americans, in the pofts of Gloucefter on Lake Huron, of Long Point
on Lake Erie, of Michigan, in two or three towns, which are to be built
on the banks of the Thames, and laftly in York. This intended capital
is furrounded by all poffible means of defence, and is fo fituated, that
it may fpeedily give fuccour, wherever it may be wanted.

From the readinefs which government difplays in granting lands gratis,
the Governor entertains not the leaft doubt of foon obtaining a numerous
population. Many families, who at the beginning of the American war
embraced the royal caufe, have fmce the conclufion of peace fettled on
lands, which were bellowed on them gratis. The American foldiers, w r ho
fought under the fame unfortunate banners, obtained alfo an indemnifi-
cation in lands, on which moft of them have fettled. All officers, who
ferved in that war, are likewife entitled to fome hundred acres, a certain
number of which are already cultivated by them. The Governor is alfa
fanguine in his hopes of procuring many colonifts from the United
States ; he relies on the natural fondnefs of thefe people for emigrating,
and on their attachment to the Englifh government. There arrive in-
deed every year a confiderable number of families from different parts of
the Union ; they do not all fettle, it is true, but fome remain in the
country. He alfo reckons upon drawing numerous fettlers from New
Brunfwick, who cannot endure the climate of that country. And laftly,
the confiderable emigration from Europe, which he fancies he fore-
fees, affords him certain hopes of obtaining thence a very numerous
population. Yet, by his account, the prevailing fentiments of the people
render the admiffion of new inhabitants, who prefent themfelves, rather
difficult ; efpecially of thofe, who come from the United States, For
this reafon, he fends fuch colonifts, as cannot give a fatisfa&ory account
of themfelves, into the back country, and ftations foldiers on the banks
of the lakes, which are in front of them. He would admit every fuper-

annuated

232 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

animated foldier of the Englifli army, and all officers of long fervice, who
are on half pay, to mare in the distribution of fuch lands as the King had
a right to diipofe of. He would difmifs every foldier, now quartered in
Canada, and give him one hundred acres of land, as foon as he mould
procure a young man to ferve as his fubftitute. With his views to en-
creafe the population of the country, he blends the defign of drawing
young Americans into the Engiiih fervice, by which he will augment the
number of American families, attached to the King of Great Britain. In
the midft of thefe families of foldiers, which he intends to fettle on the
lakes, and on all the frontiers towards the United States, he means to
place all the officers, who, as has already been obferved, have any claim
on the lands. He propofes thus to form a militia, attached to the King
from habit and gratitude ; and this he confiders as one of the moft cer-
tain means for fuppreffing the difturbances, which might be excited by
fome difaffe&ed new fettlers, who inhabit the midland counties, and at
the fame time as one of the beft meafures of defence in cafe of an attack,
By this plan of fettling amidft the foldiers officers and gentlemen of re-
ipectable families, w r hom he hopes to attract from England, he wifhes to
form a clafs of gentry, and to promote more or lefs the execution of the
project, clearly difcernible in the new conftitution, to introduce into the
two Canadas an hereditary nobility.

It is aflerted, that all Canada, vaft as is its extent, produces not the ne-
ceilary corn for the confumption of its inhabitants ; the troops are fup-
plied with flour from London, and with fait meat from Ireland. In Ge-
neral Simcoe's opinion Upper Canada is not only capable of fatisfying the
wants of all its inhabitants, but alfo of becoming a granary for England,
and of creating a confiderable trade by the exchange of this neceffary of
life for other commodities ; nor does he entertain the leaft doubt, but
that the activity, in agricultural purfuits, which he endeavours to excite
in Upper Canada, will operate as a powerful example in regard to Lower
Canada, and roufe it from its prefent fupinenefs and indolence. He con-
ceives, that the vaft quantities of filh, with which the lakes abound, and

efpecially

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LlANiCOURT. 233

cfpecially of fturgeons in Lake Ontario, afford the means of a fuccefsful
competition with Ruffia, which fupplies England with this article to a
very coniiderable amount.

The corn-trade is, in his judgment, far preferable to the fur- trade,
which appears to him at once unprofitable for Great Britain, and a means
of opprefiion to Canada, in as much as it throws the whole trade into the
hands of a few companies, and at the fame time renders them maf-
ters of the commodities, which are imported from England in return. It
is his wim, that merchants may fettle on Lake Ontario, in Montreal, and
in Quebec ; and, by the eftablilhment of a corn-trade, deftroy that mo-
nopoly which very juflly excites his indignation ; and he entertains hopes,
that this will actually take place.

The maxims of government, profefled by General Simcoe, are very
liberal and fair ; he detefts all arbitrary and military government without
the walls of the forts ; and defires liberty in its utmoft latitude, fo far as
is confident with the conftitution and law of the land. He is, therefore,
by no means ambitious of inverting all power and authority in his own
hands, but commits to the lieutenants, whom he nominates for each
county, the right of appointing the juftices of the peace and officers of
the militia. By this meafure, he thinks, he ihall be able to attach men
of weight and influence to government, and fubordinate officers to their
fiipcriors, and thus fecure additional refources for preserving the good
opinion and affection of the Canadians towards the Britifh Government.
All the juftices of the peace, whofe number is very great indeed, poflefs
the right within their refpedlive diftricls of aligning, in the King's name,
to every fettler, with whofe conduct and principles they are acquainted,
a, lot of two hundred acres of land. The furveyor of the diftricl; is in-
formed by thejuftice of the peace of the grant, made in favour of the
new colonift, and of the oath of allegiance, he has taken ; on receiv-
ing which information he gives the new fettler a certificate, pointing out
that part of the diilrict, where he is to find the land, allotted to him by
the magiltrate. If he mould wifli for a greater quantity of land, he mull
apply to the Executive Council.

H h From

234 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

From the prefent fmallnefs of the number of the inhabitants of Upper
Canada ; which, however confiderable the migration may be, for a s;reat
length of time will bear no proportion to the extent of country to be
peopled ; General Simcoe entertains not the fmalleft wifh to enlarge his
territory at the expence of the Indians ; on the contrary, he receives- with
the utmoft kindnefs thofe whom the Americans drive from their habita-
tions ; and this conduct is -extremely wife. If, on the one hand, the policy
of the united States require that, in the intermediate fpace between them
and the Englilh, there ilhould not refide a people, who may prove dan-
gerous from their extreme fufceptibility of feduclion, w r ho cannot be ufe-
ful on account of their fmall number, and who, being a nation that lives
by hunting, demand a. large tracl of country for their fubfiltence ; Go-
vernor Simcoe may, on the other hand, tolerate them, without the. leaft
danger, on the frontier of the Englifh poffeffions, conned: them by this
meafure more clofely with England, and exafperate them againft the
Americans, in order to take advantage of their hatred in cafe of need ;
efpecially as he finds they will, at any time, cede to him whatever lands
he may defire.

Although the fur-trade, in General Simcoe's opinion, is not fo profit-
able to England, as many Englimmen imagine ; yet he will not divide
its profits with the Americans ; who, by the furrender of the forts, ac-
quire a mare in the navigation of the lakes, and excellent harbours on
their coaft ; and of confequence, are poffeffed of every means to partici-
pate in this branch of commerce. A communication, he thinks, may
eafily be opened between Lake Huron and Lake Ontario, by means of
St. Jofeph's River, which by relieving the fur-traders from the trouble
and expence of the circuitous navigation of the Detroit River, of Lake
Eric, of the Niagara river, and of a great part of Lake Ontario, would
difappoint the United States in their hope of receiving in future, as they
have hitherto done, any articles acrofs the lakes from the forefts, fituate
above Lake Huron, and would at the fame time free Englifh fhips from
the neceffity of paffing by the forts of Detroit and Niagara, which are
henceforth to belong to the Americans. Nay, he is of opinion, that a

direct

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 235

direct communication might be eftablilhed between Lake Huron and St.
Lawrence river, which would however require feveral portages, on ac-
count of the numerous rapids which interrupt the navigation of that
river, as well as of the fmall lakes through which it flows.

The plan of military operation conceived by the Governor, in cafe of
a war with the Americans, confifts in chiefly drawing them into the
Englifli dominions, where, under the protection of his forts, he can fight
them to greater advantage. He further intends to eflablifli a refpe&able
navy, compofed of fmall veffels, mounting heavy guns, which no Ame-
rican yacht can dare to engage, and which, if a defcent were openly at-
tempted on the territory of the United States, would be well qualified to
cover the landing. He alfo promifes himfelf much from the afliftance
of his militia, with whom he would make confiderable inroads into the
heart of the enemy's country. The communication between Lake Hu-
ron and Lake Ontario appears to him ftill more neceflary in time of war,
as by means of this communication he intends to convey into the latter
lake the galleys, bomb-ketches and gun-boats, which he purpofes to build
at another town, lying on the Thames, to which he has given the name
of Chatham.

The views of Governor Simcoe, I mean tnofe, which concern the civil
government, are undoubtedly extenfive, and well planned. They are>
in my judgment, the beft which can be conceived, in his fituation, as an
Englifh governor ; and the poffibility of their being carried into effecT;
cannot be queftioned, if he pofleiTes the confidence of government, and
has plenty of money to expend. He may alfo, in the execution of his
plans, derive confiderable aid from the foldiers, quartered in his province.
He is aware of the indifpenfible neceffity of habituating the troops to la-
bour in a country, where he cannot hope to make them mailers of a
complex fyilem of taclics, and where laborious habits peculiarly fit them
for that fort of warfare, which is beft adapted to the fmallnefs of their
number, to the enemy they have to combat, and to the difficulties
they have to encounter.

But the execution of his projects is neverthclefs, upon the whole, ob-

H h 2 ilrufted

236 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

ftruded by numerous obftacles ; the greateft of which confifts in the Go-
vernor's determination to return to England at the expiration of five
years. Aplanoffuch vaft magnitude, and which comprifes fo great a
variety of defigns, can be carried into execution by him only, who was
able to conceive it. From the very nature of the principles on which it
is built, and the intimate connection of its various parts, the fuccefsful
execution of fuch a projecl fuppofes, on the part of the executor, befides
a thorough knowledge of its ftruclure and complexion, courage, order,
and a laudable ambition of achieving arduous and ufeful undertakings ;
requifites, hardly to be met with in any perfon who may be fent to fuc-
cecd this governor. If fuch a one be a man of moderate capacity, he will
neither be able to purfue nor to execute a plan, which is not of a nature
to be committed to fubaltern officers ; and if he be poffefTed of -fome
parts, as is generally the cafe, felf-love will diiTuade him from purfuing a
plan, laid down by another ; and however pofitive and peremptory his
inftructions may be, at two thoufand miles diftance they will be eailly
evaded. Add to this, that fondnefs for military power, and the love of
arbitrary authority are in every region of the globe the ufual attributes of
.men in power. If, therefore, General Simcoe mould execute his defign
of leaving Upper Canada, two years hence, he will hardly find fufficient
time to lay the foundations of a plan, which appears to him, and I think
very juftly, extremely well adapted to promote the profperity of Upper
Canada, and greatly enlarge the interefb of Great Britain. The various
branches of this plan, are fo extenfive and fo numerous, that a long feries
of years, fpent in the famefpirit and unwearied exertion, will be requifite
to execute it in its whole extent.

But he himfelf, I believe, would meet with impediments in the execu-
tion of his plan. Although General Simcoe is entirely independent on
Lord Dorchefter in all civil concerns, yet he is not fo in regard to the
military department, of which the quartering of the troops forms apart.
He told me himfelf, that, in this refpecl:, he feared to meet with oppoli-
tion ; and I incline to think, that on this fubjecl he did not exprefs all he
knows. Unlefs the troops be flationed in fuch pofts, as to cover and de-
fend

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 237

fend the projected capital, and the various fettlements which he has in
contemplation ; unlefs they be kept to labour rather than military exer-
cifes, and unlefs thofe, who can find fubftitutcs, be difmifled from fer-
vice, his project fails in three very material points, which can hardly be
accomplilhed by any other means. f

Lord Dorchefter is advanced in years, and, like all aged people, no
friend of new ideas. Befide that he is fond of boundlefs power, the pre-
vailing difpofitipn of the inhabitants of Lower Canada may excite in him
a wifli of drawing more troops into that province ; and fevcral hints,
thrown out by General Simcoe, incline me to believe, that he thinks his
Lordlhip has fome fuch intention. The Governor may alfo, perhaps, be
too fanguine in fome of his expectations, or indulge delufive hopes.

As to the emigration from the United States to Upper Canada, I mean
a coniiderable emigration, it appears not to me altogether fo probable as
to him. The free grant of lands feems at firft fight a much greater in-
ducement, than it actually is. The lands are indeed given away gratis ;
a certificate of the furveyor, granted by command of the Executive Coun-
cil, gives the new fettlers a right to the ufufruct of thefe lands ; but the
property thereof is fooner or later transferred, according to the will and
pleafure of the Council. To the beft of my knowledge, none of thefe
free grants include a transfer of the right of property. If an occupier of
this defcription dies without hTue, previously to his having acquired that
right, his eftate efcheats to the King ; no collateral friends or relations
fucceed in the poffeffion of the eftate ; and, of confequence, the money
and labour expended in its improvement and cultivation have been fpent
for the benefit of the Crown. In the United States, a new fettler, on pur-
chafmg a certain quantity of land, the price of which is to be paid by
diftant inftalments, has a profpecl: of difcharging them by felling again a
fmall portion of his eftate, the value of which he has doubled by cultiva-
tion ; while the Canadian planter has to look for the permanency of his
pofleffion merely to the will and pleafure of the Governor ; and, if he under-
ftand his intereft, he will not place on him an implicit dependance. Inte-
rcft and an acquaintance with fubftantial and refpe&able fettlers may, no

doubt,

238" TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

doubt, procure him, fooner, the right of property, and thus facilitate a
fecond fale. But favours of this kind are always confined to a part of
the eftate, and depend on the arbitrary will of the Council. As long,
therefore,-as there mall exift no law, determining the period and terms of
the inveftiture with thefe rights ; the pofleflbrs will remain uneafy and
i&fecure ; and consequently the progrefs of improvement will be greatly
retarded. Mines of every defcription, from gold down to pit-coal, which
may be difcovered in the lands, thus ceded, as well as all timber, which,
in the judgment of the Surveyor-general, is fit for Ship-building, are in
all thefe grants referred in favour of the King. All thefe reftriclions can-
not but render a good fettler very uneafy, and may, in the eftimation ot
many people prone to emigration, far outweigh the advantages of a free
grant.

The attachment to the King of Great Britain, which is frequently
alleged as a ground for emigration, feems an empty dream. It is com-
mon with all Englishmen, who hold here places under government, tQ
boaft of this attachment of many inhabitants of the United States of
every rank and defcription. On what grounds this opinion refts, I know
not ; but it is certainly not warranted by what I learned in the United
States. They there profefs fo loudly and uniformly principles, which in-
dicate the exa6t reverfe ; that thefe profeffions ought doubtlefs to be con-
fidered as better pledges of the true fentiments of the Americans, than the
affertions of a few Englimmen in place.

The families, who arrive here from the United States, emigrate moft of
them, it is aflerted, from their being fubjecltherc to a tax, with which, how-
ever trifling it may be, they are yet difpleafed. If this be really the cafe,
fuch a difpofition cannot in future times prove favourable to Great Britain.
We were alfo told, that General Simcoe, from his eager defire to people
Upper Canada, is by no means difficult in regard to the qualifications of
the new fettlers, who prefent themfelves ; and that, notwithstanding his
averfion to fpeculations in land, and his perfonal difmtcreilednefs ; fre-
quently a whole townfhip, nay at times two or three together, are affigned
to one and the fame perfon.

The

BY TUB DUKE DK LA KOCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 23Q

The Governor is of opinion, that the trade of Upper Canada may be
encreafed by the commodities of the Geneflee diilnnSt, for which he fees
no other outlet, but by the river of St. Lawrence. This opinion, how-
ever, feems to have no foundation ; when it is confidcred, that Lake
Oneida, the Wood-creek and Mohawk-river offer ready means for a wa-
ter-communication with Lake Ontario and the North River ; which is
at prefent interrupted only at three places, where the boats are to be car-
ried ; and that the Americans, in every part of the Union, difplay the
utmoll zeal, activity and induftry, in every thing which tends to facili-
tate communication by water. But upon the whole the Governor's mif-
calculations, originating from national prejudices, are of too little im-
portance to impede the execution of his projecl ; they may perhaps pro-
tract its completion, but cannot occafion its failure. The true impedi-
ments arc thofe, which 1 have before mentioned, and the chief obflacle is
the Governor's return to England.

The prefent population amounts, as I have already ftated, to thirty
thoufand fouls. The principal fettlement is that of Detroit ; which con-
frfts, entirely, of French families, and is moftly iituated on a tra6l of land
that, according to treaty, is to be given up to America. The Englifh
flatter themfelves, that the families, who have fettled there, will remove
from the American to the Britim fide. But, if the conduct of the Ame-
rican government towards thefe families mould be fuch, as the intereil
of America dictates; there remains but little probability, that they will
leave their long cultivated eftates, merely from a defire of living under
the Engliih dominion. The other fettlements in Upper Canada confift
in a very confiderable colony, which ftretches along the river from Fort
Erie to Newark, is not fully occupied, and does not comprife a large
extent of ground ; in a few plantations on the creeks, which run into
Lake Ontario from Newark up to its northern point ; in an infignificant
beginning of a fettlement in York ; and laftly in Kingfton, extending
along the banks of the river St. Lawrence to the boundaries of Lower
Canada, which is the moft populous of all.

As to the Governor's military plans, his meafures of defence only are

fettled

240 TRAVELS IX NORTH AMERICA,

fettled and determined ; his plans of offensive operation are fo undc
fined and uncertain as not to deferve any mention.

The hatred of the Governor againft the United States occafions him,
on the flighteft occafion, to overleap all the bounds of prudence and de-
cency, which he carefully obferves in all other matters. He was a
zealous promoter of the American war, in which he took a very active,
yet very unfortunate, part. The calamitous imie of the war has ftiil
more exafperated his hoftility ; and it was with the fmcereft grief I lift-
ened to his boafting of the numerous houies he had fired during that
unfortunate conflict, and of his intention to bum a ftill greater number
in cafe of a rupture. In fhort, the whole of his intentions on this fub-
jecl: was fiich -as the moft violent party-rage alone can infpire. He told
us, that, in cafe of another war with America, by expending vail iiims of
money, he would force them to expences equally great, which they would
not be able to meet, and much lefs to fupport for any length of time ;
in iliort, wage againft them a money-war. Yet he affirms incelfantly,
that it is his anxious wim to preferve peace with the United States.
This he very juftly confiders as a powerful mean of promoting the prof-
perity of his new colony. But his hatred againft the rebels is fo violent ;
and his difpleafure, occafioned by the furrcnder of the forts, is fo ftrong ;
that the charge, preferred againft him by the government of the United
States, of his having laft year affifted the Indians as much as he could,
without making himfelf openly a party in the difpute, fcems not devoid
of foundation. By exciting this war, the fuccefsful hTue of which he
confidered as certain, he attained the twofold purpofe of iatisfying at
once his ambition and his revenge. He does not himfelf deny, that he
had adopted the neceffary meafures for conducting to the diftricT: of Ge-
neflee all the Indians, who were at his difpofal, and who, by his account,
amounted to five thoufand men meafures which would naturally have
been attended with the firing of all the habitations, and the flaughter of
all the inhabitants. A war, thus barbarous and deftruclive, would have
been waged by England at the end of the eighteenth century ; and the
founder of a colony, in every other refpecl a man of generous and noble

feelings,

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LTANCOlTRt 1 . 241

fcelings, would have projected and prepared it. I mould not have cre-
dited thefe projects, had I heard them ftated by any individual but the-
Governor himielf ; or fhould I have ventured to introduce them here,
but that, within my knowiedge, he has repeatedly communicated them
to feveral other perfons.

But for this inveterate hatred againft the United States, which he too
loudly profefles, and which carries him too far, General Simcoe appears
in the moft advantageous light. He is juft, active, enlightened, brave,
frank, and poiTefTes the confidence of the country, of the troops, and of
all thofe who join him in the adminiftration of public affairs. To thefe
he attends with the clofeft application ; he preferves all the old friends of
his King, and negle&s no means to procure him new ones. He unites,
in myjudgment, all the qualities which his ftation requires, to maintain
the important pofleffion of Canada, if it be poffible that England can
long retain it.

In his private life, Governor Simcoe is fimple, plain, and obliging.
He inhabits a fmall miferable wooden houfe, which formerly was occu-
pied by the commiiTaries, who refided here on account of the navigation
of the lake. His guard confifts of four foldiers, who every morning come
from the fort, and return thither in the evening. He lives in a noble
and hofpitable manner, without pride ; his mind is enlightened ; his
character mild and obliging ; he difcourfes with much good fenfe on all
fiibjects, but his favourite topics are his projects and war, which feem to
be the objects of his leading paffions. He is acquainted with the military
hiftory of all countries ; no hillock catches his eye without exciting in
his mind the idea of a fort, which might be conflrufted on the fpot ;
and with the conftruction of this fort he afTociates the plan of operations
for a campaign, efpecially of that which is to lead him to Philadelphia.
On hearing his profemons of an earneft defire of peace, you cannot but
fuppofe, either that his reafon muft hold an abfolute fway over his pamon,
or that he deceives himfelf.

Mrs. SIMCOE is a lady of thirty-fix years of age. She is timid, and
ipeaks little ; but me is a woman of fenfc, handfome and amiable, and

I i fulfils

242 THAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

fulfils all the duties of the mother and wife with the moft fcrupulous ex-
aclne/s. The performance of the latter me carries fo far as to be of great
affiftance to her hufband by her talents for drawing, the practice of
which, confined to maps and plans, enables her to be extremely ufeful to
the Governor.

Upper Canada pays no taxes, except a duty on wine, amounting to
four-pence per gallon on Madeira, and two-pence on other forts of wine,
and another of thirty-fix millings fterling a year for a tavern-licence,
which, during the feffion of 17Q3, was encreafed by twenty iliillings Ca-
nada currency [four dollars]*. The fum total of the public revenue
amounts to nine hundred pounds fterling, out of which are paid the fa-
laries of the jSpeaker of the Houfe of Reprefentatives and of the fecre-
taries ; the remainder is deftined to meet the expence which local cir-
cumftanccs may require for the fervice and maintenance of fociety.

The juftices of the peace determine in the quarter-feffions, as they do
in England, the amount of the county-rates for the conftruction of public
buildings, for the repair of the roads, and the maintenance of the army.
(The laft item is not yet known in Canada.) Thefe rates are raifed by
means of a capitation or poll-tax, aiTefled in proportion to the probable
amount of the property of the whole who are in the diftricl, liable to
contribute ; the largeft afleiTment on any individual exceeds not four

dollars.

On the fame principle is raifed the pay of the members of the AiTem-

bly, who, on their return at the end of the feffion, deliver to the juftice
of the peace of their diftricl: a certificate of the Speaker, proving the num-
ber of days they have been prefent, and receive two dollars per day out
of the money raifed for that purpofe, including the days they have been,
upon their journey.

* The value of money in Canada fhould, according to law, be equal to that which
it bears in Halifax, and confequently a dollar be worth five fhilJIngs. This flandard is
fidelity adhered to in all government accounts, but not fo fcrupuloufly obferved in the
courfe of private bufinefs. The currency, which circulates in New York, pafles alfo,
efpecially in that part of Canada which borders on. New York. Author.

The

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 243

The quarter- feffions are held in every diftricl: ; and the divifion into
diftricls is connected with the adminiftration of juftice. The juftices of
the High Court of Judicature for civil and criminal caufes, who are three
in number, including the chief juftice, hold four fcffions annually in the
town in which the Governor refides. They alfo go on circuits in the
different diftri&s of the province once a year ; judges for the different
diftricls fit at morter intervals to fettle matters of little importance,
and the juftices of the peace exercife the fame jurifdiclion as in Eng-
land.

A tribunal, compofed of the Governor and two members of the Exe-
cutive Council, form the Court of Appeal in fuch caufes as have been de-
cided by the High Court of Judicature. The Governor forms alfb, with
the concurrence of an affiftant, the choice of whom depends entirely on
his option, a Court of Chancery for the deciiion of caufes, concerning
teftaments, inteftate heirs, orphans, &c.

RefpetSling the frequency and punimments of crimes, Mr. WHITE, At-
torney-general of the province, informed me, that there is no diftricl;, in
which one or two perfons have not already been tried for murder; that
they Avere all acquitted by the jury, though the evidence was ftrongly
againft them ; that, from want of prifons, which are not yet built, petty
offences, which in England would be punimed with imprifonment, are
here mulcted, but that the fines are feldom paid for want of means of
execution; and that the major part of law-fuits have for their objecl; the
recovery of debts ; but fometimes originate alfo from quarrels and
affaults ; drunkennefs being a very common vice in this country.

The province of Upper Canada is divided into the four diftricls of De-
troit, Niagara, Kingfton, and St. John's. The juftices of the peace are
felecled from among thofe perfons, w r ho are beft qualified for fuch an
office ; but, in a country fo recently fettled men worthy of this truft
cannot be numerous.

The divifion of Upper Canada into counties is purely military, and
relates merely to the enlifting, completing, and afTembling of the militia.
The counties are about twelve in number. Their names, with which I

I i 2 am

'244 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

am unacquainted, are not of fufficient importance to deferve to be
here mentioned. The militia of each county are afTembled and com-
manded by a lieutenant and fecond-lieutenant ; they muft be divided
into regiments and companies. They aflemble once a year in each county,
and are infpected by the captains of the different companies at leaft
twice a year. Every male inhabitant is confidcred as a militia-man from
the age of fixteen to fifty. He is fined four dollars if he do not enlift
at the proper time ; and officers, both commiffioned and non-commif-
fioned, who do not join their regiments at the time the militia are aflem-
bled, pay a fine ; the former of eight dollars, and the latter of two. An
officer, who, in cafe of an attack or infurrection, fhould not repair to his
affigned poft, would be punifhed with a pecuniary penalty of fifty pounds
fterling, and a petty officer with a fine of twenty pounds fterling. A.
militia-man, who fells either the whole or part of his arms, ammunition,
or accoutrements, is fined five pounds fterling ; and, in default of pay-
ment, imprifoned for two months. The Quakers, Baptifts, and Dun-
kers pay, in time of peace, twenty millings a year ; and, during a war or.
infurre&ion, five pounds fterling, for their exemption from military fer-
vicc. Out of thefe fines and ranfoms the adjutant-general of the militia
receives his pay, and the remainder is at the Governor's difpofal.

This is nearly the fubftance of the firft act of the legiilative body of
Upper Canada, patted in 1 ~Q3. In the folio wing year, 1 /(J4, an additional
acl: pa-fled relative to the militia, the chief regulations of which tended to
improve and define more accurately the internal form of the regiments,
battalions, and companies, and to render the ailembling of detachments
more eafy and expeditious. This acl: determines, that, in time of war,
the obligation to carry arms in defence of the country mall not ceafe
before the age of fixty ; and that, of confequence, Quakers and others,
who enjoy an exemption from military fervice, mall pay for their immu-
nity up to that age. It alfo obliges the militia to ferve on board of mips
and veflels, to acl: as cavalry, and to extend their fervice* beyond the pro-
vince, on condition however, that the fame men be not bound to ferve
more than fix months fucceffively..

The

BY THE DUXE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 245

The exemptions from military icrvice are confined to the officers of
juftice, and other public functionaries, whofe number is very fmall. The
\vhole militia is eftimated at nine thoufand men, for a tract of country
of confiderable extent, in which, however, the communication and aflem-
bling of the troops are much facilitated by the lakes.

All the expences of the civil and military adminiftration of Upper and
Lower Canada are defrayed by England. The fum total, including the
political expences, or the money paid to the Indians, though this forms
an item of the military expenditure, amounts for Upper Canada to one
hundred thoufand pounds fterling. Nearly two-thirds of this fum, or
fixty thoufand pounds, are paid to the Indians ; including the pay of the
principal agents, under agents, interpreters, &c. This pay deducted, all
the other charges, occafioned by the Indians, confift in prefents, toma-
hawks, mufkets, pow r der and ball, knives, blankets, rings, buckles, hats,
looking-glafles, and, above all, in rum. The agents are charged with the
diftribution of thefe articles, which by fome are diftributed every year, by
others at various times, according to circumftances. It is by thefe means
the Indians are fuppofed to be gained over. Such of their chieftains, as
are believed to poffefs confiderable influence, obtain a larger fhare of pre-
fents ; by which, and efpecially by a profufe distribution of rum, their
friendmip is gained and preferved. The Americans are depicted to
them as their inveterate enemies ; they are made to fwear, that they will
burn and fcalp thefe foes at the firft fignal. It was in this manner the
Governor imagined laft year, from the reports he had received, that he
ihould be able to difpofe of fifty thoufand men, who had all taken an
oath, not to leave a fcalp on the fkull of any American they ihould fall in
with. A relation of thefe atrocities has all the appearance of an exag-
gerated account of fome nation of cannibals, and yet it is literally true*.
The Englifh affert, that the Americans, on their part, proceed exactly in
the fame manner.

* With all candid readers it will undoubtedly be a matter of regret, that the author
fhould have preferred a charge of fuch a ferious and heinous complexion, without giving
bimfelf the lead trouble to fubftantiate its truth. Tranjlator*

246 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

It muft be confcfled, that the colonifls, by their mean and barbarous
policy, teach the Indians to defpife them. But we may indulge a hope,
that the time is not far diftant, when the latter fnall poiTefs fufficient
fenfe, to take the prefents of England and the money of the United
States, and to laugh at both thefe great nations ; fcorning to be any longer
the tools of their ambition and revenge.

We have here been told, that England's annual expenditure for Upper
and Lower Canada amounts to four or five hundred thoufand pounds
fterling ; whether the penfions and donations which England beftows on
fome inhabitants of the United States, be comprifed in this eftimate, I
know not ; but this I know, from a very refpe&able fource, that they
amount to a pretty large fum. Is it this circumftance, to which MeiTrs.
Hammond and Simcoe allude, when they fpeak of the numerous friends
of the King of Great Britain in the United States ?

I have not yet mentioned, that the Governor is alfo Prefident of an
Executive Council, compofed of five members. In regard to the bills,
which have pafled both houfes, his aiTent or difTent is determined by the
majority of votes. But, as he appoints this council, and has alfo the
power of drflblving it, we may eafily conceive, that it confifts of members
entirely dependant on him. The major part hold feats in the Legislative
Council.

An office, which was exclufively charged with preparing for the dif-
cuffion and decifion of the council fuch matters as concern grants of land,
has lately been abolifhed. The Executive Council has referved to itfelf
the introductory difquifition, as well as the definitive determination, of all
bufmefs of this defcription. The number of thofe, who apply for lands,
is uncommonly great. The claims of the petitioners are generally
grounded on their attachment to the Britim Monarch, and their difguft or
hatred againft the government of the United States. But, under alle-
gations of this kind, frequently lurks a fpirit of fpeculation. Notwith-
ftanding the folicitudc faid to be difplayed by the council to difcover the
truth, many grants of land are made on no other grounds than favour.
By the letter of the law, which, however, is often eluded, one individual

cannot

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 247

cannot obtain more than one thoufand two hundred acres. Yet, as the
grants contain no claufe fixing the period within which the ground is to
be cleared, fpeculations frequently occur, and not the leaft fecurity is
obtained, that the land will be a moment fooner inhabited for being thus
bellowed.

I have already obferved, that officers, who ferved in the American war,
have a right to a mare in thefe lands, which amounts, for a lieutenant to
twelve hundred acres, and for a colonel to five thoufand. But officers,
who never acled in the American war, nor ever held a colonel's commif-
fion, have obtained fhares as great as the largeft allotted to thofe who
have. Thefe lands, though moil favourably fituated, are not yet cleared ;
nor is there the leaft appearance of their being fpeedily cultivated.

Every thing is exceffively dear at Newark. The mops are few, and the
fhopkeepers, combining againft the public, fix what price they choofe
upon their goods. The high duty laid by England upon all the commo-
dities exported from her illands proves a powerful encouragement to a
contraband trade with the United States, where, in many articles, the
difference of price amounts to two-thirds. The government of Canada
is very vigilant to prevent this contraband trade ; but a certain profpecl
of gain excites to exertion, which will frequently fucceed in eluding the
law, as well as the vigilance of the executive power. The fliopkeepers
know perfectly well how to favour this contraband trade, the only means
for destroying which would be to lower the duties, and, of confequence,
the price of the commodities. The Governor has it in contemplation, to
encourage fuch manufactures as produce thefe articles, which are run in
large quantities into this province from the United States, fuch as hats.
But all his exertions to this effecT: will fail in regard to fugar, coffee, tea ;
in mort, with refpecl to all commodities, which are directly imported
from the United States, without being there fubje<5led to as high a duty
as in Canada.

During our long residence at Naryhall, all the inhabitants of an Indian
village, of the Tofcarora nation, came to congratulate the Governor >n his
late arrival at Naryhall. All thefe vifits and congratulatory compliments

have

248 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

have no other object but to obtain fome drink, money, and prefents,
Thefe Indians generally arrive in the morning, in veiTels, from the oppo-
fite banks of the river, which they inhabit. They were decked out with
uncommon care, covered with rags of every defcription, and adorned
with horfe-hair, and feathers of all poffiblc fpecies of birds. In their
ears and nofes they wore rings of the moll varied forms and colours.
Some were dreffed in European clothes, others wore laced hats, and fome
were naked, excepting the double apron, and painted from head to foot.
It is in the manner of painting themfelves, that their genius is efpecially
difplayed. In general they prefer the harfheft colours, paint one leg white,
and the other black or green, the body brown or yellow, the face full of
red or black fpots, and their eyes different colours. In a word, they unite
in their decorations the utmoffc abfurdity and harfhnefs. They are, every
one of them, painted in a different ftyle, and furnimed with a fmall
looking-glafs, which they every moment confult with as much attention
as the moft fmimed coquette. They comb themfelves again and again,
and touch up the colours, which may have faded from perfpiration or
exercife. Many of them wear filver bracelets and chains round their
necks and arms. Some have a white ihirt with long fleeves over
their clothes, and this forms their moft elegant garment ; the major
part wear as many filver buckles as they can afford. In mort, their ap-
pearance calls to recollection the whimfical mafks, which throng the
iftreets at Paris during the carnival. It muft, however, be confeffed,
that their abfurd finery, in a great meafure, confifls of things, which
they make themfelves, of horfes', buffaloes', or other hair, or of the
briftles of the hedge-hog. They twifl ropes of the bark of trees, and
make laces of a fpecies of herbs. Many of thefe articles, which they
ufe to adorn their drefs, their tobacco- bags, their fcalping-knives, gar-
ters, and mockinfons, (a fort of fhoes) are made by the women, with
a regularity, a fkill, nay, I may fay, with a tafte, feldom to be found in
Europe. Their chief excellency confifts in the great variety and rich-
nefs of the colours, which they generally extract from leaves, and from
the roots of certain herbs; but they pofTefs alfo the art of extracting

them

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOLRT.

tlrem from all dyed linens and filks, of which they can obtain a pieced
They boil thefe rags in the juice of a plant, with the fpecies and name
of which I am anacquainted, and thus obtain a very durable colour for
dying hair or bark.

On their arrival this morning the Indian vifitors were about eighty in
number. The Governor, being particularly engaged, deferred receiving
their viilt until the afternoon ; at which time only thirty made their ap-
pearance, the reft being all dnmk, and unable to move. The vifit was
received on a large plot of grafs, without the fmalleft Compliment on either
part. The Governor was prefent, but kept at fome diftance. The In-
dians danced and played among themfelves. Some of their dances are
very expreffive, and even graceful. A mournful and monotonous ditty,
fung by one, and accompanied with a fmall drum, fix inches liigh, and
three in diameter, forms all their mufic, except that frequently a {tick ia
added, with which a child beats the time. They dance around the mu-
fic, which they frequently interrupt by loud fhrieks. The hunting and
war dances are the moir expreffive, efpecially the latter. It reprefents
the furprife of an enemy, who is killed and fcalped, and is performed by
one perlbn. The reft are hopping about, like monkeys, in a femicircular
figure, and watch, with the utmoft attention, every movement of the
dancer. The moment when the enemy is fuppofed to have breathed his
laft, a ftrong expreilion of joy brightens every face ; the dancer raifes a
horrid howl, refumes his pantomime, and is rewarded by univerfal fhouts
of applaufe. When he has thus finimed his 4ance, another enters the
ftage, who is, in his turn, relieved by others ; and in this way the dance
is continued, until they become tired of it. When the dance was over,
they played at ball ; a game in which they difplayed their agility to the
greateft advantage. Every one had a racket, the handle of which was
three or four feet in length, and bent at the end, fo that the racket has
the form of a bow. The packthread is made of bark ; they grafp the
racket with both hands, and run after the ball, wherever they fee it, with
the view of catching it, one before another. This ball is frequently

K k thrown

250 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

thrown to a confiderable diftance, in which cafe they run after it all to-

gether, to catch it, either in the air, or on the ground. No bum, no
ditches, no barriers check their ardour. They clear every thing, leap over
every tiling, and difplay, in this game, a verfatility, fwiftnefs, and dexte-
rity, which are truly ilriking. Daring thefe games the agent came up to
the general, with one of the chieftains, and told him, that the Tufcarora
nation wimed to learn whether they might affift at a meeting, to be held
ki Onondago by the Oneida Indians, for the purpofe- of felling a part of
the Oneida refervation, which the ftate of New 7 York liad manifefted a
difpofition to purchafe*. The Governor's anfwer was conceived in terms
extremely vague ; the agent translated this anfwer as he pleafed, and in.
reply allured the Governor, in the name of the Indians, that they would
not go to Onondago, from the hope that this would prove more agree-
able to the Britifh Monarch. Whether this political farce was ad:ed>
only by the agent, or whether the chieftain took a part, I know not; but
this I know, that this chieftain, a moment before, begged of me two
ihillings, for which he would have promiied me, had I defired it, to vifit
or not to vint all the meetings throughout the univerfe. Without enter-
ing further on. this fubjecl, I fhall merely obferve, that the whole policy
of England, relative to the Indians, is in the hands of the agents, w r ho
alone underftand their language, and have the iole management of the
prefents. It reils entirely with thefe agents to perfuade all or any of
thefe nations to- engage in war, and to excite their enmity either againft
the United States or againft each other. The Governor is altogether in-
capable of judging of their difobedience and opposition to the orders of
his cabinet but by the refults. The fame is undoubtedly the cafe as to*
the American States.

The Engliih agent, here referred; to* is Colonel BUTLER, celebrated 7

* The Oneida Nation receives an annuity from the State of New- York of three,
thoufand five hundred. and fifty-two dollars for lands purchafed of them in 1795, and.
an. annuity of about fix hundred and twenty-eight dollars from the United States.-^

' n

1-ranjlauir.

for

1*Y THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 251

for his * * * **************

He is a native of America of the neighbourhood of Wilkefbarre. His
* # * * * * * *.*********** *

*##?#*#*# * * t England has rewarded his loyalty
"with five thoufand acres of land for himiclf ; the fame quantity for
his children ; a peniion of two or three hundred pounds fterling ; an
agency, worth five hundred pounds fterling a year ; and the privilege of
taking from the ftore-houfes, which contain the prefents, whatever he
choofes. He is treated with every mark of refpecl by the Governor.

The Tufcarora Nation is an Indian tribe, the men of which mare the
toils of their women in a greater degree than any other. The Governor
mentioned a project, he has conceived, of giving a half civilization to all
the Indian nations in the intereft of England. Whether or no civili-
zation be likely topromote the happinefs of the Indians, is a queftion, a full
difcuflion of which might, perhaps, exceed my powers, or at leaft feem
irrelevant. But, were I obliged to decide it at once, I mould anfwer in
the negative, as long as they are not hemmed in too clofely by the
coloniits, pofTefs a fufficient tract of ground for hunting, and have plenty
of game. But, I repeat it once more, to do juftice to this queftion would
require a more profound difcuflion, than I can enter upon in this place.
Befides it can hardly be fatisfactorily decided, fmce the ftate of favage na-
tions, left entirely to their primitive life, is widely different from the con-
dition of thofe, who refide in the vicinity of thefe colonifts, and hold in-
tercourfe with them. If, on mature deliberation, we were obliged to
allow, that the creation of wants, the neceffity of providing for them, the
-excrcife of our mutual powers, the unfolding of our faculties, and the re-
finement of our feelings, prove more frequently fources of misfortune than
of happinefs ; every degree of civilization, pregnant with all thefe, mould
carefully be kept, for their own fake, from all favage tribes. But the
fame conclufion will not hold good in regard to a barbarous people, who,
from their intercourfe with civilized nations, poilefs already fome de-
gree of civility ; but a civility which acquaints them with vices only, and
confequently introduces them to fources of misfortune, and who, there-

Kk 2 fore

152 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

fore, from a higher degree of culture, may derive an alleviation of their
fate and an increafe of happinefs. As to the advantages likely to accrue
to the civilized world from the civilization of the favages, the queftion
feems likely to demand a decifion in the affirmative.

However this may be, the Governor, in conceiving this project, had not
only the happinefs of the Indians in view, but alfo his own advantage.
He intends to have them civilized by priefts, and would give the prefer-
ence to mimonaries of the Roman Catholic perfuafion. The policy of

General S inclines him to encourage a religion, the minifters of

which are interefted in a connection with the authority of thrones, and
who, therefore, never lofe fight of the principle, to preferve and propagate
arbitrary power.

I learn here, that rum enervates the Indians, fhortens their lives, ren-
ders their marriages daily more barren, and, when fruitful, productive
only of poor unhealthy children ; and that, from the ufe of this poifon,
which now cannot either be wrefted from them, or rendered harmlefs in
its confequences, the different tribes are daily decreasing in number.

Eighty miles from Naryhall, on the Miami, or Great River, is the
fettlement of Colonel BRANT, with a view of which I mould have been
much pleafed ; but he is not there at prefent, and they aflure me that,
in his abfence, I mould fee nothing but what I have already feen in thofe
i have hitherto vifited.

Colonel Brant is an Indian by birth. In the American war he fought
under the Englifh banner, and he has fmce been in England, where he
was moft gracioufly received by the King, and met with a kind recep-
tion from all clafTes of people. His manners are femi-European. He
is attended by two negroes ; has eftablifhed himfelf in the Engliih way ;
has a garden and a farm ; drefles after the European fafhion ; and never-
thelefs poiTeffes much influence over the Indians. He affifts, at prefent,
at the Miami-treaty *, which the United States are concluding with the

weftern

* Tlue treaty, alluded to by the author, is the Greenville treaty, concluded on the
third of Auguft H95, at Greenville, a fort and fettlement on the fouth fide of a north-
.weftern branch of the Great Miami, between Major-general A. Wayne and the chiefs of

the

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOVRT. 253

weflern Indians. He is alfo much refpe&ed by the Americans, and, in
general, bears fo excellent a character, that I fincercly regret I could not
fee and become acquainted with him.

The Indians, who inhabit the village, w T hich we pafled on leaving Ca-
nawaga, paid alfo a vifit to the Governor during the time we flayed
with him. The weather being too hot for receiving the vifit on the
grafs, he ordered them to be ulhered into a room, where he was attended
by fome officers of the garrifon. The chiefs of the Indians faid a few
words, which the agent interpreted to the Governor, as containing an
afTurance, that they would employ their tomahawks againfl any one he
mould point out, and expreffions of regret, that they could not ufe them
lafl year againfl the Americans. The Governor thanked them for thefe
fentiments, endeavoured to confirm them in this friendly difpoiltion,
and told them, that the King of Great Britain wifhed for peace,.

whatever lies the maize-thief [Mr. P , Commiffioner of the United

States] might have impofed on them lafl year. They anfwered, that

the Governor was perfectly right, and that P was a liar, drank as

much as they pleafed, and departed. The conference was held at
eight o'clock in the morning, and before nine o'clock half of them were
intoxicated. The Governor is very anxious to oblige and pleafe the In-
dians ; his only fon, a child, four years old, is drefTed as an Indian, and
called TIOGA, which name has been given him by the Mohawks. This
harmlefs farce may be of ufe in the intercourfe with the Indians.

The Niagara river and lake abound with a great variety of fifties. We
aflifled at a flming, intended to fupply the foldiers with fifh ; the net
was drawn thrice. One end of the net was held by men, who remained
on more, while the remainder was carried into the flream by means of a
boat, which, after the net had been entirely expanded, conveyed the
other end back to the more. Both ends are joined on the fpot, whence
the net is drawn. It is only four feet deep, but one hundred, feet ir*.

the following tribes of Indians, viz. the Wyandots, Delawares, Shawanefe, Ottawas,.
Chippawas, Putawatimes, Miamis, Eel-river, Weeas, Kickapoos, Plan Kafhawa and
Kafkafldas. TranJIator.

length

'251 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA-,

length. Upwards of five hundred fifh. were caught, among which were
about twenty-eight or thirty fturgeons, frnall pikes, whitings, rock-fifh,
fun -fifh, herrings, a fort of carp, which in .point of ihape refemblc thola
of Europe, but differ much in .flavour, and in the form of their heads, fal~
mon, trouts ; in fhort, all the fifh was of a tolerable fize, Middle-fized
fifh are eaiily caught by anglers on the banks both of the river and the
lake ; they frequently catch more than their families can confume in
ieveral days.

The town of Newark {lands on the other fide of the river, direclly op-
pofite to the fort. About a hundred houfes, moflly very fine ftruc-
tures, have already been creeled, but the progrefs of building will pro-
.bably be checked, by the intended removal of the feat of government.
The majority ot the .inhabitants, efpecially the richeft of them, mare in
the adminiftration ; and confequently w T ill remove, to whatever place
the government may be transferred. In point of fize and elegance, the
houfe of Colonel SMITH, lieutenant-colonel in the fifth regiment, is much
diftinguimed from the reft. It confifts of joiner's work, but is conilmded,
cmbellifhed, and painted in the beft ftyle ; the yard, garden, and court
are furrounded with railings, made and painted as elegantly, as they
could be in England. His large garden has the appearance of a French
kitchen-garden, kept in good order. In a country, where it is a hard mat-
ter to procure labourers, and where they are paid at the rate of one dol-
lar per day, he finds, in his regiment, as many as he choofes, for nine-
pence fterling a day, becaufe the men otherwife do not 'eafily obtain
leave to go to work. It is in this manner he is now clearing five thou-
-fand acres, which have been granted him, and has the ufe of thirty more,
which belong to the Xing, are fituate in front of the town, and which
the Governor has amgncd him, until he fhall be neccffitated to demand
them again.

The fcarcity of men fervants is here {till greater than in the United
States. They, who are brought hither from England, either de-
mand lands, or emigrate into the United States. A very wife a<5l
.of the AiTembly declares all negroes to be free, as foon as they arrive

BTTHF, DUKE DE LA ROCIIEPOUCAITLT EIANCOURT. 255

;n Canada. This delcription of men, who arc more or lefs frequent
in the United States, cannot here fupply the want of white fen-ants.
All perfbns belonging to. the army employ fbldiers in their ftcud. By
the Englilh regulations, every officer is allowed one fbldier, to whom
he pays one {hilling a week ; and this privilege is extended, in pro-
portion as the officers have need of a greater number of people. The
Governor, who is alfo colonel of a regiment of Queen's Rangers, fta-
tioned in the province, is attended in his houfc, and at dinner, merely
by privates of this regiment, w r ho alfb take care of his horfes. He has
not been able to keep one of the men, iervants, lie brought with him,
from England.

The regiments quartered in the vicinity of the United States, it is af-
ferted, lofe much by defertion. Seeing every where around them lands,
either given away or Ibid at a- very low rate, and being furrounded by
people, who within a twelvemonth have rifen from poverty to profpe-
rity, and are now married and proprietors, they cannot endure the idea of
a fervitude, which is to end only with their exiilence. The ennui na-
turally ariilng from the dull, and fecluded manner of living in garrifons,
where they find neither work nor amufement, and the flight attention
mew^n them by moffc of the colonels, darken {till more, in their view;
the difmal piclure of their {ituation. They emigrate accordingly into
the United States, where they are fure to find a fefrtlement, which, if they
choofe to work, cannot fail to make them rich and independent. To
hold out to them the fame hopes in the Englilh colony of Canada, would,
be the only mean of rendering lefs dangerous the temptation offered by,
the United States. It is with this view, that Governor Simcoc vcrv
wifely formed the project of difmiffmg every foldier, who ..fhould find air
able fubftitute in his room, and to give him one hundred acres of land - r
but it is faid, that this project appears, in.Lord Dorchefter's judgment, to
favour too much of the new principles, to obtain his confent. If it were
actually refufed, fuch an unreafonable denial would more forcibly pro-
voke the difcontented of the troops, from their being already acquainted^
with the meafure.

During our refidence at Naryhall, the fcffion of the Legislature of

Upper,

25(3 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

Upper Canada was opened. The Governor had deferred it till that time,
on account of the expected arrival of a chief-juftice, who was to come
from England ; and from a hope, that he mould be able to acquaint the
members with the particulars of the treaty with the United States. But
the harveft has now begun, which in a higher degree than elfewhere en-
gages, in Canada, the public attention, far beyond what ftate-affairs can
do. Two members of the Legiflative Council were prefent inftead of
feven; no Chief-juftice appeared, who was to acl: as Speaker; inftead of
iixteen members of the AiTembly five only attended, and this was the
whole number, which could be Collected at this time. The law requires
a greater number of members for each houfe to difcufs and determine
upon any bufmefs *> but within two days a year will have expired fmce
the laft feffion. The Governor has therefore thought it right, to open
the feffion, referring, however, to either houfe the right of proroguing
the fittings from one day to another, in expectation, that the ihips from
Detroit and Kingfton will either bring the members, who are yet want-
ing, or certain intelligence of their not being able to attend.

The whole retinue of the Governor confifted in a guard of fifty men of
the garrifon of the fort. DreiTed in filk, he entered the hall with his hat
on his head, attended by his adjutant and two fecretaries. The two
members of the Legiflative Council gave, by their Speaker, notice of it
to the AfTembly. Five members of the latter having appeared at the
bar, the Governor delivered a fpeech modelled after that of the King, on
the political affairs of Europe, on the treaty concluded with the United
States, which he mentioned in expreffions very favourable to the Union,
and on the peculiar concerns of Canada. Where no taxes are to be
fettled, no accounts to be audited and examined, and no military regula-
tions to be adjufted, public bufmefs cannot occupy much time. But, if
even all thefe points were to be difcufled, the bufmefs would ftill be
trifling, from want of an oppofition ; which feems to be precluded by the

* By the Quebec A&, patted in 1791, it is enated, that the Legiflative Council is to
confift of not fewer than feven members for Upper Canada, and the AfTembly of not lefs
than fixteen members, who are to be called together at leaft once in every year.

Tranjlator.

manner

BY THE DUKE DE LA JROCHEPOUCAULT J-IANCOUHT. 25/

manner, in which the two Iloufes for Upper Canada are framed. The
conftitution of this province is well adapted to the prcfent ftate of the
country. The members of both Houfes, who bear a fhare in the admi-
niftration, are all of them as ufeful, as can be defircd, at this period. The
influence of the Governor is not ufelefs. And the other neceflary arrange-
ments, efpecially fuch as may enfure liberty and good order, will, no
doubt, be made in the procefs of time.

Fort Niagara ftands, as has been already observed, on the right bank
of the river, on a point, oppofite to that of MhTiirogas, on which Newark
is built. It was originally conftrucled by Mr. de la TONQUIERE, three,
miles nearer to the falls ; but was, fome years afterwards, transferred to
the foot, where it now ftands, and where Mr. deDENONViLLE threw up
an entrenchment. This fort, as well as thofe of Ofwego, Detroit, Miami,
and Michillimakkinak, are to be furrendered to the Americans *. Fort
Niagara is faid to be the ftrongeft of thefe places, having been flrength-
cned with fome new works, in the coude of laft year ; efpecially covered
batteries, defigned for its protection on the fide of the lake and the river.
All the breaft-works, flopes, &c. are lined with timber. On the land-
lide, it has a curtain, flanked by two baftions, in each of which a block-
lioufe has been conftrufted, mounted with cannon. Although this fort*
in common with all fuch fmall fortified places, cannot long withftand a
regular attack ; yet the befiegers cannot take it, without a confiderablc
lofs. All the buildings, withip the precincts of the fort, are of ftone, and
were built by the French.

With very obliging politenefs, the Governor conducted us into the
fort, which he is very loath to vifit ; fince he is fure, that he mall be
obliged to deliver it up to the Americans. He carried us through every
part of it, indeed more of it than we wifhed to fee. Thirty artillery-men
and eight companies of the fifth regiment, form the garrifon of the fort.
Two days after this vifit, we dined in the fort, at Major SEW T ARD'S, an
officer of elegant, polite, and amiable manners, who feems to be much

* All thefe forts were actually delivered up to the Americans in Auguft 1796, purfuant

to the treaty of H94. Translator.

L 1 refpecteci

258 TRAVELS IX KORTH AMERICA,

refpecled by the gentlemen of his profeffion. He and Mr. PILKINSON,
an officer of the corps of engineers, are the military gentlemen we have
molt frequently feen during our refidence in this place, and whom the
Governor moll diftinguifhes from the reft. In England, as in France,
the officers of the engineers and artillery are in general the molt accom-
plifhed among the gentlemen of the army ; and their fociety is confe-
quently preferred. The officers of the fifth regiment, whom we have
feen, were well-bred, polite, and excellent companions.

The communication of the fort with Newark is in winter intercepted
for two or three months, by malTes of floating ice, carried along by the
ilream. At times it is free for a few hours only. The Indians attempt,
now and then, to crofs the river, by jumping from one piece of ice to
another. But the number of thofe, who venture upon this dangerous
experiment, is never great.

Some trifling excurfions, we made in the environs of the city ; and
efpecially a tour of four days, with the Governor, along the banks of the
lake ; afforded us an opportunity of feeing the interior country. The
chief purpofe of this journey was, to reach the extremity of the lake. A
boat, made of the bark of trees, and designed for the Governor's excur-
fions between Detroit and Kingfton, contained the whole company ;
which coniilted of the Governor, Major Seward, Mr. Pilkinfon, us
three (Mr. de Blacons, having left us two days after our arrival in
Naryhall), and Mr. RICHARD, a young Englifhman, who arrived here
by the way of the North River, and whom we had already feen in Phila-
delphia. Twelve chaffeurs of the Governor's regiment rowed the boat,
which was followed by another veflel, carrying tents and provifion. We
halted at noon to eat our dinner, and in the evening to pitch our tents
and fup. In the morning, we walked, then breakfafted, and fet out to
purfue our journey, which was rendered rather unpleafant by a fmall fall
of rain.

Fortymile-creek was one of the chief objects of our tour. This Itream,
which interfeclis in a ftraight line the range of mountains, extending
from Queens' Town, flows, with a gentle fall, into the plain ; and af-
fords

EY THE DUKE PE LA ROCHKFOUC AULT LlAXCOUJtT. '2r>(>

fords feme wild, awful, yet very pleafing profpects among the mountains.
Before it empties itfelf into the lake, it turns a grift mill, and two faw r -
mills, which belong to a Mr. GREE^ T , a loyalift of Jerfey, who, fix or
/even years ago, fettled in this part of Upper Canada.

This Mr. Green was the conftant companion of the Governor on this
little journey ; he is apparently a worthy man, and in point of know-
ledge far fuperior to the common caft of fettlers in this neighbourhood.
His eftate confifts of three hundred acres, about forty of which are cleared
of wood. He paid one hundred and twenty-five dollars for forty acres,
through which the creek flows, that turns his mill, on account of the
greater value, they bear for this reafon ; the common price being only five
millings per acre. Land newly cleared yields here, the firft year, twenty
bumels of corn. The foil is good, though not of the moft excellent
quality. They plough the land, after it has produced three or four crops,
but not very deep, and never ufe manure. The price of flour is twenty-
two millings per hundred weight ; that of wheat from feven to eight mil-
lings per bufhel. The bufhel weighs fixty-two pounds upon an average.
L/abourers are fcarce, and are paid at the rate of fix millings a day.

Refpe&ing the feeding of cattle, the winter is here reckoned at five
months and half, and near the lakes often at fix ; on the mountains it is
a month fhorter. A few habitations are fcattered over this diftrict.
Wheat is here, as well as throughout all Upper Canada, generally fown ;
but other forts of grain are alfo cultivated. Wheat and rye are fown in
September ; oats, in May ; barley, in June ; turnips, in July ; and po-
tatoes, in May. The hay harveft falls between the loth of June and the
1 Oth of July. Rye is generally cut about the beginning of July ; and
wheat, in the latter days of the fame month ; potatoes and turnips
are dug up in October and November. Grafs is, in general, mowed
but once. Cultivated meadows are fown with timothy-grafs. The
cattle are fed, in winter, with hay ; which is kept either in barn?, in
Dutch lofts*, or in Hacks, after the Englifh manner : the laft are very

* In this neighbourhood, as well as throughout all the northern parts of the Union,
they call a thatched roof of a round, fquare or polygonal form, which rcfis on long pofis
but can be raifed or lowered at pleafure, a Dutch loft. Anther.

L 1 2 badly

TRAVELS IX NORTH AMERICA,

badly made. Until the winter fets in with great feverity, the cattle arc
left to graze in the woods ; they tell us, that in all parts of Upper Ca-
nada, the fnow lies feldom deeper than two feet. The whole of thefc
obfervations apply alfo to the cultivated ground near Lake Ontario and
Lake Erie.

Mr. Green, who has a very numerous family, intends to bring up all
his fons to farming, and to build for each of them a mill, either on this
or on a neighbouring creek. He grinds the corn for all the military poffo
in Upper Canada ; where General Simcoe has ordered all the flour of a
good quality to be purchafed, which lhall be offered by millers in larger
quantities than fix bufhels.

The road from Fortymile-creek to the extremity of the lake, which
we travelled, on horfeback, is one of the worft we have hitherto feen in
America. But for our finding now T and then fome trunks of trees in the
fwampy places, we fhould not have been able to difengage ourfelves from
the morafs. Along the road, which is fifteen miles in length, the foil is
good ; but we fcarcely faw four plantations on the bank of the lake. At
the very extremity of it, and on the moft fruitful foil, there are but two
/ettlements.

Burlington Bay borders on Lake Ontario. This bay is five miles
in length, and communicates with the lake by a {freight fixty yards
wide ; but this communication is interrupted by fand-banks, which, at
the extremity of the lake, form a bar, the bafe of which projects nearly-
half a mile into the lake. This fole paflage excepted, the bay is feparated
from the lake by an iflhmus, from to two to four hundred yards broad.
At the point, where this iflhmus begins on the fouthcrn fide of the
lake, the unnavigable trac~l is about fifty feet in width. Small veffefe
are worked up into a fmall creek in the bay ; whence they proceed with-
out any impediment to any other part within its extent. The moun-
tains, which near Fortymile-creek reach clofe to the lake, but afterwards
recede to the diftance of five or fix miles, approach it again at the extre-
mity of Burlington Bay. Their colour, as well as the quality of the in-
tervening foil between them and the lake, affords ground to fuppofe, that
they once formed its borders, and that the tracl of ground, which now

feparates.

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 26 1

feparates them from its prefent bed, and which is covered with very old
and beautiful trees, has been formed by alluvia from the waters of the
lake. This range of mountains, after having formed an opening,
through which a pretty confiderable river empties itfelf into the bay, re-
join, bound the lake for about a fourth part of its length, and itretch
thence towards Lake Huron, in the vicinity of which they divide into
different branches, the farther direction of which is not known. The
geographical knowledge of this country, as far as it relates to the comic
of the rivers, the fhape of the vallies, and the direction of the chain
of mountains, is yet very imperfect. Governor Simcoe is aware of the
ncceffity of its being enlarged and perfected. But, in a newly occupied
country, like this, the number of objects iieceflary to be attended to is
immenfe.

During the whole of our excuruon we pawed through woods, copi-
emfly adorned with flowers of the moft exquifite hues and fragrance, the-
names of which we could not learn. The numbers of fragrant trees, of
a fizc unknown in Europe, was equally great.

The banks of the lake are rather unhealthy, and intermittent fevers are
almorr. as frequent there, as in the diftricl: of Geneflee. But few furgeons
refide in the country ; they are not fuffered to pra&ife, till after having
undergone an examination by a phyfician, appointed by government.
This prevention, which may prove very beneficial in future times, is at
prefent of no avail. For, as very few apply for leave to pra&ife, the moft
ignorant are admitted without difficulty, if they will only prefcnt them-
fclves for admiilion.

By one of them I was informed, that the inferior claues of the inha-
bitants dread their advice in intermittent fevers, becaufe they always pre-
fcribe bark ; and that poor people, inftead of following their advice, have
recourfe to a fort of magic charm, in which univerfal confidence is placed
in this country. If feized with the ague, they go into the foreft, fearch
out a branch of an elm or fanafras, of the laft year's growth ; fallen to this
branch, without breaking it off the tree, a thread, which muft not be
quite new ; tie as many knots, as they think they fliail have fits of the

fever ;

'26'.! If.AVKLS IN NORTH AMliRlCA,

fever ; and then return home, perfectly convinced, that they mall not ex-
perience more fits, than they have bound themfelves to fuftain, by the
number of knots they have tied. The firft difcoverers of this arcanum ufed
to make fo few knots, that the ague would frequently difappoint their
hopes, but they who at prefent practife this fuperftition tie fo many, that
the febrile matter is generally carried off, before the number of fits comes
up to that of the knots.

A tour along the banks of the lake is extremely pleafant ; the profpcct
of this vaft meet of water is majeflic, and the traces of culture, which up-
on the whole has been commenced on the beft principles, offer a picture,
on which both the eye and the mind dwell with equal pleafure. The
Governor is a worthy man, amiable and plain. The company was agree-
able, and we enjoyed every convenience, which can be expected on a
journey of this kind. And yet, during the whole time of our refidence
in Naryhall, where he, as well as every one belonging to him, loaded us
with civilities, in a manner the moft agreeable, I did not experience one
moment of true happinefs, and real untainted enjoyment.

I am at a lefs to account to myfelf for- the various perceptions, which
preffed upon my mind, and prevented my feelings from being entirely ab-
forbed by gratitude, and by the pleafmg fenfations, it naturally produces.
I love the Englifh more, perhaps, than any other Frenchman ; I have been
conftantly well treated by the Englifh ; I have friends among them ; I
acknowledge the many great qualities and advantages which they poffefs.
I deteft the horrid crimes, which ftain the French revolution, and which
deftroyed fo many objects of my love and efteem; I am bammed from
France ; my eftates are confifcated ; by the government of my country I
am treated as a criminal or corrupt citizen ; fevered from all 1 held dear,
I have been reduced to extreme, inexpreffible mifery, by llobcfpierre, and
the reft of the ruffians, whom my countrymen have fuffered to become
their tyrants ; nor are my misfortunes yet consummated and yet, the
love of my country, this innate feeling, now fo pain&d to me, fo claming
with my prefent fituation, holds an abfolute fway over my foul, and pur-
fues me here more clofely, than elfewhcre. This Englifh flag, under

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCITRFOUCAULT LIAXCOURT. 2()3

which lam failing over lakes where the French flag was fo long dif-
played ; thefe forts, thefe guns, the fpoils of France, this conftant, obvi-
ous proof of our former weaknefs and of our misfortunes, give me pain,
perplex and overpower me to a degree, which I am at a lofs to explain.
The fuccefs, laft year, obtained by Lord Howe, which the Englim men-
tion with more franknefs, becaufe they fuppofe our intereft to be inti-
mately connected with theirs; the eagernefs they difplay in announcing
new defeats of the French, the accounts of which are prefaced by the af-
iurance, that Englim triumphs and exertion ihall reinftate us in the pof-
feffion of our eftates, and followed with congratulations ; all thefe com-
mon topics of converfation, which our guefts feem to introduce with the
belt intention, prove more painful to my feelings, as I am neceflitated to
hide my thoughts, left I mould be deemed a fool by the few, in w T hofe
eyes I am no Jacobin, no Robefpierrian, and becaufe I am, as it were, at
crofs purpofes with myfelf. And yet it is a fentiment rooted, deeply
rooted in my foul, that I would continue poor and banimed, all the days
ot my life, rather than owe my rejlorarion to my country and my eftates, to
the influence of foreign powers, and to Brittfh pride. I hear of no defeat
of the French armies, without grief, or of any of their triumphs, with-
out my felf-love being gratified to a degree, which at times I take not
fufficient care to conceal*. And yet, notwithftanding thefe feelings,
the confeffion of which may appear ridiculous in my prefent fituation, I
cannot difcern the period, when anarchy ihall ceafe in my ill-fated coun-
try, and liberty, regulated by wife and efficient laws, afford happinefs at
leaft to thofe, who are not banimed ; when France fhall reft her glory 011
a fafe and lafting foundation.

I do not know, whether thofe of my friends, who mail read thefe lines,
w ill ,underftand my meaning ; and whether they will be more able, than

* Thefe " Confeffions (Tun Emigre" which ingenuoufly cxprcfs the true fentiments of
a very considerable part of the emigrated French nobility and gentry, are not, it feems,
unworthy of die notice of foreign powers, arid efpecially of our government. A French
emigrant^ who aed in the Weft Indies as field-officer in the Britiih fervice, regretted,
that the " pavilion cheri" was not waving at the maft-head of the veflel, on board of
which he was going to combat the French. Tranjl.

I am,

264 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

I am, to reconcile thefe apparently incongruous feelings and perceptions.
I have here thrown them together, as I felt and conceived them.

In addition to the civilities offered here to our fmall company, Du-
petitthouars experienced one of a peculiar complexion, confifting in an
offer of lands in Upper Canada, made by Major Seward, who, without
cxprefsly itating, that he was authorifed by the Governor to propofe thij>
offer, at leaft hinted fomething to that effect. The polite, yet peremp-
tory anfwer, returned by Dupetitthouars, at once ended the bufmefs.

The tafte for news is not by far fo prevalent in Upper Canada as in
the United States. Only one newfpaper is printed in Newark ; and but
for the fupport granted by government, not the fourth part of the ex-
pence of the proprietor would be refunded by the fale of his papers. It is
a fhort abftra6t of the newfpapers of New York and Albany, accommo-
dated to the principles of the Governor ; with an epitome of the Quebec
Gazette. In the front and back of the paper are advertifements. It is a
weekly paper ; but very few copies are fent to fort Erie and Detroit.
The newfpaper prefs alfo ferves for printing the acts of the Legislature,
and the notices and orders nTued by the Governor ; and this is its princi-
pal ufe. In point of news, the fituation at Niagara is by no means con-
venient, efpecially in time of war.

The Engiifh {hips are not yet arrived from Quebec, and this day is the
jfixth of July* The intelligence, which reached Philadelphia about the
time of our departure, has butjuft been received at Niagara. They tell
us, that they know nothing, but what they have learned directly from
England. What little information we have been able to collect from
different quarters, concerning the fentiments of the people, and which
we could only now and then obtain, as we fhould otherwise have given
offence by too much inqunltivenefs on this head, coincides in reprefent-
ing the nation at large as defirous of tranquillity and peace. But the
American loyalifts, who have actually fuffered by the war, ftill harbour
enmity and hatred againft their native land and countrymen. Thefe fen-
timents however are daily decreafmg, and are not fhared by the far greater
number of emigrants, who arrive from the United States, Nova Scotia,

and

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 265

and New Brunfwick. There are mal-contents in this country ; but their
number is fmall. Several new fettlers, who migrate into this pro-
vince from the United States, falfely profefs an attachment to the Britifh.
Monarch, and curfe the government of the Union, for the mere purpofe
of thus wheedling themfclves into the poflefTion of lands. . The high
price of provifion, the prohibition of a commercial intercourfe, and the
protracted delivery of the deeds, by which the property of granted lands
is conveyed to the occupiers, form, indeed, grounds of much difcontent ;
but this is by no means of a nature to caufe uneafmefs to the government,
which feems even to doubt its exiftence, though, in cafe of a war with
the United States, it might render its fituation extremely critical.

The Epiicopal is the eftablifhed religion in Upper Canada. In De-
troit, however, half of the inhabitants are Roman Catholics ; and fome
families of Quakers, Baptifts, and Dunkcrs, ar.e fcattered through the
province, though in fmall numbers.

A fcventh part of the lands is allotted to the fupport of the Proteftant
clergy. For the Roman Catholic fervice nothing is paid, except in De-
troit. No church has yet been built, even in Newark. In the fame
halls, where the Legislative and Executive Councils hold their fittings,
jugglers would be permitted to difplay their tricks, if any mould ever ftray
to this remote country. Our laft excurfion in the environs of Naryhall
brought us by Queenftown to one of the Tufcarora villages, which Hands
on the Indian territory, four miles from Naryhall. One of the roads,
which lead thither, paflcs over mountains, that border upon the falls. This
road affords fome intcretVmg prcfpecls, fuch as precipices, dreary receffes,
wild romantic fcenes as far as the mountains project over the river, ilill
hemmed in between this double range of high rocks. They become
truly admirable where the mountains flopc towards the plain, which
feparates them from the banks of the lake ; this whole plain, Fort Nia-
gara, the bank of the lake, the lake itfelf, nay, a part of die oppofite
bank, burfting at once on your view. The foil feems every where to be
of a good quality.

Mm This

166 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

This Tufcarora village has as dirty and mean an appearance as all the
other villages we have hitherto feen ; but the inhabitants, being informed
of the intended vifit of the Governor, had painted themfelves with the
utmoft care, and were dreiTed in their moft fafhionable ftyle. They fan-
cied he came to hold an aiTembly. A booth, covered with green branches,
before the door of the habitation of the chieftain, on which the Englilh
flag was w T aving, was the place fingled out for the expected folemnity.
The inhabitants were rather difappointed, when they learned from the
Governor, that he came with no other view but to pay them a vifit. He
fat down in the booth. The Indians were feated on benches placed in
a femi-circular form, and fmoaked tobacco. As many of the young men
as could find room fat at the end, or ftood leaning on the rails. General
Simcoe and ourfelves were in the centre of the femi-circle ; women and
children were kept at a diftance.

PATERSON, an American by birth, whom the Indians took prifoner
at the age often years (he is now twenty-five) acted as interpreter to the
Governor. All his fpeeches, like every difcourfe of the Englifh agents
addefled to the Indians, turned on the fame fubject. He told them alfo,
at this time, that the Yankees were brooding over fbme evil defign againft
them ; that they had no other object in view but to rob them of their
lands ; and that their, good Father (King George) was the true friend of

their nation. He alfo repeated, that the maize-thief, (T P )

was a rogue and a liar.

His fpeech, however', met not with much applaufe on the part of the
Tufcaroras. . The Seneca- Indians had called here a week before, on their
way to Naryhall, and told them, that they were going to the Governor,
without entering into any particulars respecting the object of their vifit-
This circumftance led the Tufcaroras to conclude, that fomething very
important was in negociation between the Senecas and the Governor,
probably tending to the prejudice of their nation ; for miftrufr,, fufpicion,
and apprehenfions, form the prominent features of the policy of the In-
dians ; and it muft be confefled, that this way of thinking is a very natu-
ral conference of the conduct of the colonifls towards them.

The

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOITCAULT LTANCOURT. 267

The Governor difclaimed all particular negociations with the Senecas ;
and, in order to divert them from this opinion, made ufe of all the com-
pliments and affurances, which he thought any way fitted to flatter their
vanity, or allay their fears. He again told them of the Yankees, of the
maize-thief, and of King George ; but all this did not fatisfy them. His
promile of granting them lands in Canada, if the Yankees mould drive
them from their homes, made no deeper impreffion ; nothing could
brighten that cold, nay gloomy countenance, which they generally pre-
ferve while they are treating on bufinefa. The extreme care, which they
employ to conceal their impremons on fimilar occafions, may either be
the effecl: of a ftudied diffimulation, the neceffity of which they may
have learned in their intercourfe with the colonifls, or merely the refult
of character and habit. This anecdote, however trifling in itfelf, mews
how eafily the jealoufy between the different Indian nations is roufed ;
a difpofition which, like all the other foibles of the Indians, both the
Englifh and the Americans turn to their advantage.

There are few Indian villages, where fome perfons of European defcent
have not fettled, who generally enjoy a confiderable fliare of influence
over the tribe. They are commonly people of a very indifferent charac-
ter, attracted by the idle, extravagant, and drunken habits of the Indians.
It is a general remark, that the whites, who refide among them, are ex-
tremely vicious, cruel, and covetous, and the very w^orft hufbands and
fathers.

Intermitting fevers are very fr.equent in this village. The Indians fre-
quently take the advice of the phyfician, whom the Englim government
appoints, and pays on their account ; but they, far more frequently, take
draughts, which they prepare themfelves from the juice of herbs. Al-
though the neighbourhood is much infeded with rattle- makes, yet none
of the prefent inhabitants of this village were ever bitten by them. Their
remedy, in this cafe, would confift of fait and water, which they think
infallible, and fully fufficient to effecl: a cure. ,

We met on this excurfion an American family, who, with ibme oxen,
cows, and iheep, were emigrating to Canada.- " We come," faid they,

M m 2 " to

268 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

" to the Governor," whom they did not know, " to fee whether he
will give us land." " Aye, aye," the Governor replied, " you are tired
of the federal government ; you like not any longer to have fo many
kings ; you wiih again for your old father," (it is thus the Governor calls
the Britifh Monarch when he fpeaks with Americans) ; " you are per-
fectly right ; come along, we love fuch good royalifts as you are, we will
give you land."

On our return from Queenftown we defcended in the Governor's boat
the noble river Niagara, the banks of which imagination delights to fancy
covered with inhabitants, and reclaimed by culture from their prefent
wild ftate, and views rich and charming landfcapes ; but this riclmefs,
and thefe charms, will probably yet, for a confiderable time, enchant the
eye of fancy alone.

During our refidence in Naryhall, Meffrs. Dupetitthouars and Guille-
mard took the opportunity of the return of a gun-boat, and made an ex-
curfion to York. Indolence, politenefs to the Governor, and the convic-
tion that I mould meet with nothing remarkable in that place, united to
dilTuade me from this journey. My friends informed me on their return,
that this town, which the Governor had fixed upon as the capital of
Upper Canada, before he thought of building a capital on the Thames,
has a fine extenfive road, detached from the lake by a neck of land of un-
equal breadth, being in fome places a mile, in others only fix fcore yards
broad ; that the entrance of this road is about a mile in width ; that in
the middle of it is a fhoal or fand-bank, the narrows on each fide of which
may be eafily defended by works erecled on the two points of land at
the entrance, where two block-houfes have already been conftrucled ;
that this is two miles and half long, and a mile wide ; and that the
elevation of the more greatly facilitates its defence by fortifications to be
thrown up on the moft convenient points.

Governor Simcoe intends to make York the centre of the naval force
on Lake Ontario. Only - four gun-boats are, at prefent, on this lake ;
two of which are conftantly employed in tranfporting merchandize ;.
the other two, which alone are fit to carry troops and guns, and have

oars

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIAXCOURT. 2(5<)

oars and fails, are lying under iheltcr until an occasion occurs to con-
vert them to their intended purpofe. It is the Governor's intention to
build ten fimilar gun-boats on Lake Ontario, and ten on Lake Erie.
The (hip- carpenters, who conftrucl them, refide in the United States,
and return home every winter.

There have not been more than twelve houies hitherto built in York.
They ftand on the bay near the River Dun. The inhabitants do not
poffefs the faireft character. One of them is the noted BATY, the leader
of the German families, who, according to the aflertion of Captain Wil-
liamfon, were decoyed away by the Englifli, to injure and obftru<5l the
profperity of his fettlement.

Notwithstanding the navigation of this river, there is a portage of
thirty miles between York and Lake Simcoe, by which the merchandize,
that comes from Lake Huron, might reach that place in a ftraighter line.
The barracks, which are occupied by the Governor's regiment, Hand on
the road, two miles from the town, and near the lake ; defertion, I am
told, is very frequent among the foldiers.

In a circumference of one hundred and fifty miles the Indians are the
only neighbours of York. They belong to the tribe of the MiflaiTogas*
I mall here obferve, that all, who have vifited the Indians in Upper Ca-
nada, allure us, that Father CHARLEVOIX has delineated their manners
with the fame exaclnefs and truth, which he has in general difplayed in
the defcription of the countries he traverfed.

After a rcfidence of eighteen days at Naryhall, we took leave of the
Governor on Friday the ] Oth of July. He wifhed us to flay a little
longer; but Lord DORCHESTER'S anfwer had probably reached Kingf-
ton by this time ; and, notwithstanding the Governor's true politenefs
and generous hofpitality, we were not entirely free from apprehenfions of
incommoding him.

I hope that he has been as Satisfied with the fincerity and franknefs of
Mr. Dupetitthouars and myfelf, as we were with his kindnefs. As to,
Mr. Guillemard, I make no mention of him, fmce, he being an Englifh-
man, his fituation, is altogether different from ours. We enjoyed in the

General's-

270 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

General's houfe the moil perfecl freedom of opinion, which a man of his
diftinguifhed talents will always cherim, and but for which we mould
not have been able to continue fo long at Naryhall as we did.

Every thing we have feen and heard in this part of Upper Canada
renders it, in our judgment, extremely probable, that her dcpendance on
England will not be of long duration. The fpirit of independance,
which prevails in the United States, has already gained ground in this
province, and will, no doubt, be much encreafed by a more immediate
connection with the United States. The companion drawn by the in-
habitants of Upper Canada, between the price of commodities fubject to
Englifh duties and cuftoms, and the value of the fame articles on the
oppofite more, will be a fufficient fource of envy and difcontent. The
navigation being carried on by both countries on the fame lakes and
canals, it will be impoffible to prevent the contraband-trade ; and this
cannot but prove highly prejudicial to Great Britain, at leaft according to
the lyftem, by which fhe is guided in the government of her colonies.
This contraband- trade will be a conftant object of difpute between the
two flates, and will furnifli the Governor of Upper Canada with fufficient
pretences for commencing and promoting a war. But, a conteil, the
natural confequence of which would be an increafe of the price of pro-
vifion in Canada far above what it would bear in the United States,
could not be a popular war. It would be a repetition of the American
War of the Stamp-a6l, and of the Tea-tax, and would probably be at-
tended with the fame confequences.

The natural order of things at this moment, and the univerfal difpo-
fition of nations, announce the feparation of Canada from Great Britain
as an event, which cannot fail to take place. I know nothing, that can
prevent it. By great profperity and glory, by fignal fuccciles in her war?,
and by undifturbed tranquillity at home, Great Britain may be able to
maintain her power over this country, as long as coniiderable fums fliall
be expended to promote its population and profperity ; as long as it ihall
enjoy the moft complete exemption from all the taxes and burthens of
the mother country ; in fine, as long as a mild government, by refources

prompt

BY THE DITKE DE LA ROCIIEFOUCAULT LlAtfCOl'RT. 271

prompt and well applied, by ufeful public eftablifhments, not yet exit-
ing, and by encouragements held out to all claffes and defcriptions of
citizens, fhall convince a people already invited and qualified by a wife
constitution to enjoy all the bleffings of liberty, of the advantages of a mo-
narchical government, which in its benevolent projects unites wifdom of
conception with rapidity of execution.

But thefe conditions are and will hardly be fulfilled.. In our time, per-
haps foon, Great Britain will lofe this bright jewel of her crown.* In
regard to Canada, me will experience the fame fate, as me is likely to
mare, fooner or later, refpecling her poireffions in India ; as will befall
Spain in refpecl: to her Florida and Mexico, Portugal in regard to her
Brafil, in fhort all European powers, refpecling fuch of their colonies at
leaft, as they pofTefs on the continents, unlefs, enlightened by experience,
they mall fpcedily change the colonial form of government.

Before I clofe the article of Niagara, I muft make particular mention
of the civility fhewn us by Major LITTLEHALES, adjutant and firfr. fe-
cretary to the Governor ; a well-bred, mild, and amiable man, who has
the charge of the whole correfpondence of government, and acquits him-
felf with peculiar ability and application. Major Littlehales appeared to
poffefs the confidence of the country. This is not unfrequently the cafe,
with men in place and power ; but his worth, politenefs, prudence, and
judgment, give this officer peculiar- claims to the confidence and refpecl,
which he univerfally enjoys.

We embarked for Kingflon on board the Onondago, one of the cut-
ters, which compofe the naval force on the lake. This cutter is pierced
for twelve fix-pounders, but carries only fix in time of peace. When

* Readers, endowed with a larger fliare of political fagacity, than the author difplays
throughout the whole train of arguments, on which he grounds this dimal prefage, will
probably incline to believe the predi&ed revolution in Canada not quite fo near at hand,
as it appears to the Duks, who feems not to recoiled!, that the Britifh government, by
fufyftituting, as he himfelf calls it, " a- wife conftitution" in the ftead of the ancient
conftitutional form of Canada, has adopted the very means, to prevent her lofs,
which at the ciofe of his obfervations on this fubjeft, he advifes as the only preventive
of fuch a calamity, Tranflaior*

thefe

27 4 TRAVELS IK NORTH 'AMERICA,

thefe veilels are not laden with {tores for the King's fervice, they are
freighted with merchandize, for which the merchants either pay freight,
or engage to tranfport in their bottoms an equal quantity of the King's
ilores.

The Onondago is of eighty tons burthen. On this occafion, ilie had
two detachments on board ; one of the fifth regiment, deftined for
Kingfton to bring money, and another of the Queen's rangers, to receive
at Montreal new cloathing for the regiment. There were, befides, forty-
one Canadians on board, who had conducted ten veffels for the King's
fervice from Montreal to Niagara. The cabin-paflengers were, Mr.
Richard, Mr. Seward, whom I have already mentioned, Mr. BELLEW,
who commanded the detachment of the fifth regiment, which was go-
ing to letch money, Mr. HILL, another officer of the fame regiment,
who was ill, and was going to Kingfton for the recovery of his health,
Mr. LEMOINE, an officer of the fixtieth regiment, quartered in Kingf-
ton, and our party.

The wind was tolerably fair during our pafTagc ; this is generally ac-
complifhed in thirty-fix hours ; at times in fixteen ; but it took us forty-
eight hours. Dead calms are frequent, efpecially at this time of the year,
and laft fomctimes five days. Scarcely any motion was obfervable on the
waters of the lake. This paflage, which is one hundred and fifty miles long,
offers no intercfting objects ; the coaft foon disappears from your view,
efpecially in hot weather, when the horizon is clouded with vapours, as
when we failed. Duck's Iflands form, to fpeak generally, the only trifling
danger on this paflage. They are three in number, lying in a line ; there
is no paflage for fliips either between the coaft and the iiland on the left,
or between this and the middle ifland, on account of the rocks under
the w r ater, on which fliips would unavoidably be loft. You muft pais
between the middle iiland and that on the right, where the water is from
four to five -miles in width, and fufficiently deep to afford a fafe naviga-
tion. The only danger, to be here enceuntered, might arife from a fud-
den guft of wind, fpringing up the moment, you approach the iflands
and driving the fhip into one of the dangerous channels. To the beft of

BY THE DUKE VK LA KOCHKFOUCA.ULT LIANCOURT. 2/3

my knowledge, but one fnipw reck has happened here, within the me-
mory ot* man ; but no vellel ventures near the iflands by night, except
when the weather is perfectly fair and clear. A more common and more
real danger ariie.i from the ftorms', which frequently on a fudden arife on
the lake, render it even more boiftcrous than the fea, and caufe the fhips
to labour and ftrain more fcvcrely, on account of the fhortnefs of the
waves, bounded by the fmall extent of the waters. The mips are then
in conftant danger of being driven on more, and would hardly be able to
avoid it, if the ftorms lafted longer. But they generally continue only
for a fhort time, efpecially in iummer, and the clearing up of the wea-
ther is as fudden as was the coming on of the ftorms. They are, properly
fpeaking, only violent gales of wind, which in autumn frequently
blow two days together, and iucceed each other very rapidly. Five
or fix years ago, a ihip was loft, with every hand on board, and inftances
of this kind are faid not to be uncommon at that time of the year.
From November until April, the navigation is entirely difcontinued on
the lake.

During our pan* age, Lieutenant EARL, who commanded the cutter,
and almoft all our fellow r -paffengcrs, behaved to us, in the moft civil and
obliging manner. The weather was very warm, and had been fo for
the laft eight or ten days. The mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer
ftood, at Nary hall, frequently at ninety -two ; but on board the veil el, in
the cabin, it was only at iixty-four. It is lefs the intenfity of the heat,
than its peculiar nature, w r hich renders it altogether intolerable ; it is
fultry and clofe, and more fo by night, than by day, when it is fome-
times frefhened by a breeze, which is not the cafe in the night ; the
opening of the windows affords no relief; you. do not pcrfpire, but feel
cpprefied ; you rcfpire with difficulty ; your ileep is interrupted and
heavy : and you rife more fatigued, than when you lay down to reft.

I have already mentioned, that we had a detachment of the fifth regi-
ment on board. They dreffed, before we arrived at Kingfton. Eigkf
days betore w r e had feen the Indians painting their eyes with lamp-black
und red-lead, and braiding their hair, to fix in it feathers or horfes' manes.

N n <rlve<l

274 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

dyed red or blue. This day we faw European foldiers plailering their
hair, or if they had none, their heads, with a thick white mortar, which
they laid on with a brufh, and afterwards raked, like a garden-bed, with
an iron comb; and then fattening on their head a piece of wood, as large
as the palm of the hand, and fhaped like the bottom of an artichoke,
to make a cadogan, which they filled with the fame white mortar, and
raked in the fame manner, as the reft of their head-drefs.

This is a brief fketch of the fpeclacle, which thefe foldiers exhibited to
us, the laft two hours of our paffage ; though their toilette was not exactly
the fame as that of the Indians, yet they confulted their iooking-glafs
with the fame anxious care. Thefe obfervations are lefs intended to
throw a ridicule on the drefs of foldiers, and the childim attention paid
to it in all countries, than to check the forwardnefs of thole, who are
ever ready to ridicule all manners and habits, which are not their own.
The Indian favage would be at a lofs, whether to laugh more at the
Turk, who covers his morn head with a turban, containing more or
fewer folds in proportion to his rank and confequence at the w T omen in
the ifland of Melos, whofe petticoats fcarcely cover half their thighs,
while their fleeves reach down to the ground or at our belles, who ten
years ago confined their breafls and waift in huge ftays, with falfe hips,
and ftrutted along on high heels, and who now fcrew up their waifl to
the middle of their hofoms, tied round with a girdle, which looks more
like a rope, than a fafh, wear their arms naked up to their fhoulders, and
by means of tranfparent garments expofe every thing to view, which for-
merly they thought themfelves obliged to conceal, and all this, forfooth.
to refemble Grecian ladies.

Sunday, the 1 2th of July.

When Ducks' Iflands were about twenty miles a-ftern of us, the lake
grew more narrow, and the number of iflands encreafed. They feemed
all to be well wooded, but are not inhabited, and lie nearly all of them
along the right bank. On the left is Quenty Bay, which flretches about
fifty miles into the country, and the banks of which are faid to be culti-
vated

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAlTLT LIANCOURT. 275

vated up to a confidcrable extent. The eye dwells with pleafure, once
more, on cultivated ground. The country looks pleafant. The houfcs
lie clofer, than in any of the new fettled parts of Upper Canada, which
we have hitherto travcrfed. The variegated verdure of the corn-fields
embellishes and enriches the profped, charms the eye, and enchants the
mind. In the back-ground {lands the city of Kingfton, on the bay of the
fame name, which the French, in imitation of the Indians, called Cada-
rakwe. It confifts of about one hundred and twenty or one hundred and
thirty houfes. The ground in the immediate vicinity of the city rifes
-with a gentle fwell, and forms, from the lake onwards, as it were, an
amphitheatre of lands, cleared, but not yet cultivated. None of the
buildings are diftinguimed by a more handfome appearance from the reft.
The only ftruclure, more confpicuous than the others, and in front of
which the Englifh flag is hoifted, is the barracks, a ftone building, fur-
rounded with pallifadoes.

All the houfes ftand on the northern bank of the bay, which ftretches
a mile farther into the country. On the fouthern bank are the build-
ings belonging to the naval force, the wharfs, and the habitations of all
the perfons, who belong to that department. The King's fhips lie at
anchor near thefe buildings, and confequently have a harbour and road
feparate from the port for merchantmen. We landed at Port Royal.
However kingly were the commander and his fhip, he took our money.
Governor Simcoe exprefsly defired us not to pay for our pafTage, as the
cutter was a King's fhip, and he had amply fupplied us with provifion.
Bat my friend Dupetitthouars, as well as myfelf, were fo much difpleafcd
with the idea, of making this paiTage at the expence of the King of Eng-
land, that we ventured to offer our money to Captain Earl. Offers of
this kind are feldom refufed, nor did ours meet with a denial. Yet, it is
but juftice to add, that Captain Earl is a worthy man, civil, attentive,
constantly on the deck, apparently fond of his profeffion, and matter of his
bufmefs.

No letter from Lord Dorcheftcr had yet arrived, and it was ex-
tremely uncertain when it would arrive. The calculation, made a>

N n 2 Kingilon^

2/(> TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

Kingfton, refpecling the probable time of the return of an anfwer, is
favourable than what they made at Niagara. We jfliall, perhaps, be
obliged to wait a week longer. How much time will be loft for our
Journey, and why ? Becaufe Governor Simcoe is not on good terms
with Lord Dorchefter ; and becaufe he obferves the niceft punctuality,,
from which, in confideration of the letters we brought with us, he
might well have departed in this cafe. Our friend, Mr. Hammond,
might have faved us this unpleafant delay, by writing fooner to Lord
Dorchefter, as I requefted him to do. Unfortunately fuch accidents can-
not be forefeen. If they could, how many things fhould we alter in the
courfe of our life T We muft wait. Patience, patience, and again pa-
tience.

Kingfton is the place, to which J^ord Dorchefter wifhes, that General
Simcoe mould transfer the feat of government in Upper Canada. la
this choice he is, perhaps, in a great meafure influenced by the advantage^
which he would thus enjoy, of having all the troops, in cafe of an at-
tack, in the vicinity of Quebec, which is, in his opinion, the only tena-
ble place in Lower Canada. He thinks, that if the feat of the govern-
ment of Upper Canada were removed to Kingfton, which lies nearer to
Quebec than any other place, the orders and news, which arrive from
Europe, w:ould reach this place with more rapidity and fafety, arid would
alfo be more rapidly circulated through the province. He further ima-
gines, that the naval ftores, fent from Europe, would here be fafer, and
that the refitting of fhips would be cheaper, and with more Security ef-
fected in Kingfton, whither, at all times, they might be fent directly
from Quebec, at leait more expeditioufly, than to any other place on the-
take, where the inconvenience of a tedious and uncertain palTage muft be
added to the expen.ce for fhifting the cargo on board of another veflel.

Governor Simcoe, on the contrary, is of opinion, that by the aggregate
of his arrangements, the defence of Upper Canada might be eafily eFecT>
ed. He adds, that the wealth of the country, which he confiders as the
neceiTary refult of his projects, will attracl the enemy ; and that if they
fhould make themfelves mailers of Upper Canada, it would be impoffible

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 277

to diflodge them. He alfo obferves, that, in time of war, by the various
means of navigation, confiderable parties might be eafily fent from Upper
Canada to every point of the United States, even to Georgia; that
Upper Canada is the key of the territories of the Indians ; and that
thence fuccours may be eafily fcnt to every part of Lower Canada,
which, on the other hand, i.s not able to fend any to Upper Canada, at
leaft not fo expeditiouily as circumftanccs might require.

As to the more rapid circulation of orders and intelligence, and the
earlier receipt of them, the Governor allows the truth of thefe allegations ;
but anfvvers, that, from the vail extent of Canada, it is extremely im-
probable, that in cafe of its being peopled, this territory mould be divided
only into two governments. He adds, that the beft method of peopling
fuch parts of Canada, as have hitherto been explored, would be, to en-
courage the population of the two extremities, in which cafe, the prof-
perity of the centre would be more eafily and rapidly attained. He fur-
ther obferves, that, in fuch a cafe, Kingfton would become the capital of
n new province ; and that, in regard to the more difficult and more ex-
penfive diftribution of ftiips, no facility and favings, to be obtained under
this head, could balance the advantage of uniting in its centre the whole
naval force ftationcd on the lake, and efpecially in a place, where it is
moft elTentially protected againfl an attack.

All men feek after reafons or pretenfions to enlarge the extent of their
authority and power. Her,;, as every where elfe, good and bad reafons
are alleged in fupport of a iyftem, of a project, and efpecially of the in-
terefts of fclf-lovc. Yet power is alfo here, as every where elfe, the ben:,
at leaft the moft decifive of reafons ; and if Lord Dorcheftcr fhould not
be able to prevail upon the Britifh government to declare Kingfton the
capital of Upper Canada, he will, at leaft, prevent the feat of government
from being cftablifhed between the lakes Erie, Huron, and Ontario, ac-
cording to the wifh of General Simcoe. As to the project of transferring
it to York, he declares himfelf in a manner by no means favourable to
that city ; and in this opinion he is joined by all the inhabitants of Kingf-
ton, whofe difpleafure at their eity not becoming the capital of the pro-
vince

278 Til A V ELS IX NORTH AMERICA,

vince is greatly increafed by the confideration, that, in confequenc'e of 'this
project, their town will ceafe to be the emporium of the fmall naval
force flationed on this lake. The friends of Kingflon further allege againft
the project, and not without reafon, that York is an unhealthy place,
and will long remain fo, from the nature of the ground, which fcparates
the bay from the lake.

Dupetitthouars, who is a zealous partizan of York, as far as he confi-
ders it in the light of an eftablimment for the navy, cannot help allow-
ing, that it has the air of being an unhealthy place. General Simcoe
apparently poffen'cs the love and confidence of all the inhabitants and
foldiers. But his projects are deemed too extenfive ; and, above all, too
coftly, in proportion to the advantages, which England is likely to reap
from their being carried into effecl. .

The merchants on the lake, w^hofe rapacity the Governor is endea-
vouring to reftrain, lay great ftrefs on thefe two objections, and bellow
'much praife on Lord Dorchefter's profound wifdom and confummate
abilities ; while, by other accounts, he was formerly an ufeful man, but is
now fuperannuated.

Lord Dorchefter being an utter ftranger to me, I am altogether un-
qualified to judge of his abilities and talents. I am alfo unacquainted
with the amount of the expence, which the execution of Governor Sim-
coe's plans may require, and with the refources which England may pof-
fefs to meet them. But I am clearly of opinion, that Great Britain can-
not fail to reap fignal advantages from his views and projects, if they
mould ever be carried into effedl ; and that they compofe a complete fyf-
tem, which, if properly purfued in all its parts, will do great credit to him,
who lhall execute it.

But, at; the fame time, all the information we here obtain on this fub-
jecl confirms our opinion, that General Simcoe meets with much oppo-
iition in his plans; that the jealouiy, which Lord Dorchefter mows in
regard to him, and which is the natural refult of his age and temper of
mind, is carefully kept alive, by thofe who hold places under him ; and
that, with the exception of grants of land, and other matters of govern-
ment,

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCI1EFOUCAULT LlAXCOURT.

ment, in refpecl: to which the Governor is perfectly independent, he can
do and enacl nothing without the confent of the Governor General. As
to his rooted aversion againft the Americans, I have heard it cenfured
even by priv ate foldiers ; but he is allowed by all to poflefs military ta-
lents.

In relating thefe particulars, which finim the picture of the man, I have
no other object, but faithfully to draw the character of Governor Simcoe,
who, being undoubtedly a man of fuperior abilities and endowments, de-
ferves to be known.*

Kingfton, confidered as a town, is much inferior to Newark ; the num-
ber of houfes is nearly equal in both. Kingfton may contain a few more
buildings, but they are neither fo large nor fo good as at Newark. Many
of them are log-houfes, and thofe which confift of joiner's work, are
badly conftrucled and painted. But few new houfes are built. Nd
town-hall, no court-houfe, and no prifon have hitherto been conftru&ed.
The houfes of two or three merchants are conveniently fituated for load-
ing and unloading fhips ; but, in point of ftruclure, thefe are not better
than the reft. Their trade chiefly confifts in peltry, which comes acrofs
the lake, and in provifion from Europe, with which they fupply Upper
Canada. They aft as agents or commiffioners of the Montreal Company,
who have need of magazines in all places, where their goods muft be un-
fhipped.

The trade of Kingfton, therefore, is not very confiderable. The mer-
chant fhips are only three in number, and make but eleven voyages in a
year. Kingfton is a ftaple port. It is fituated twelve miles above that
point of the river, which is confidered as the extremity of the lake. Here
arrive all the veifels, which fail up the river of St. Lawrence, laden with
provifion brought in European fliips to Quebec.

* Governor iimcoe has fince left Upper Canada, and returned to England, whence he

h^ !ieen lent to St. Domingo. In that colony he has found no opportunity for difplay-

in :\ his military talents, but has endeavoured to curb the rapacity of the 1'mall army in the

"f Great Britain, and by this meritorious conduct excited the hatred both of the

French and Englifh, who have gratified it in a dreadful manner. Auihor.

The

280 TRAVELS IX NORTH AMERICA,

The barracks are constructed on the fite of Fort Frontenac, which was
built by the French, and levelled by the Englim. The latter built thefe
barracks about fix years ago. During the American war their troops
were conftantly in motion ; and, in later times, they were quartered in an
ifland, which the French call Me aux Chevreaux, (Goats' Ifland) and
which the Englim have named Carleton, after Lord Dorchefter. Fort
Frontenac, w r hich was liable to be attacked on all fides, would anfwer no
other purpofe but to protect the fmall garrifon, w r hich the French kept
there, againfl the attacks of the Indians and Englim ; a part of the garri-
rifon was quartered in Cadarakwe, for the protection of the French trade.
Here were alfo built, by Mr. DE LASALLE, the firft French mips, which
navigated the lake.

Kingfton feems better fitted for a trading tow r n than Newark, w r ere it
-only for this jreafon, that the mips, which arrive at the latter place, and
-are freighted for Lake Erie, pafs by the former, to fail again up the river
as far as Queen's Town, where the portage begins. Nor is its pofition
equally advantageous for fharing the trade in provifion, with which
the lake may one day fupply Lower Canada, England, perhaps all Eu-
rope, if Upper Canada mould ever anfwer the expectations entertained by
Governor Simcoe.

Kingfton is, at prefent, the chief town of the middle diftrict of Upper
Canada, the molt populous part of which is that fituated on Queen's
Bay. This diltrict not only produces the corn requifite for its own con-
fumption, but alfo exports yearly about three or four thoufand bufhels.
This grain, which, in winter, is conveyed down the river on fledges, is
bought by the merchants, who engage, on the arrival of the mips from
Europe, to pay its amount in fuch merchandize, as the fellers may
require. The merchants buy this grain for government, which pays
for it, in ready money, according to the market price at Montreal. The
agent of government caufes a part to be ground into flour, which he fend*
to the different ports in Upper Canada, where it is wanted ; and the fur-
plus he fends to England, probably with a view of raifmg the importance

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 2S1

of the colony in the eftimation of the mother-country. The price of
flour in Kingfton, is, at prefent, fix dollars per barrel.

The diftricl: of Kingfton fupplied, laft year, the other parts of Canada
with large quantities of peafe ; the culture of which, introduced but two
years ago, proves very productive and fuccefsful. In the courfe of lull
year, one thoufand barrels of fait pork, of two hundred and eight pounds
each, were fent from Kingfton to Quebec ; its price was eighteen dollars
per barrel. The whole trade is carried on by merchants, whofe profits
are the more confiderable, as they fix the price of the provifion, which
they receive from Europe, and either fell in the vicinity, or fhip for the
iremoter parts of Upper Canada, without the leaft competition, and juft
&B they think proper.

Although the number of cultivators is here greater than in the difr,rict
of Niagara, yet the vaft quantity of land under cultivation is not better
managed than theirs. The difficulty of procuring labourers obftructs
.agricultural improvements, and encourages them to infift on enormous
wages.

The procefs of clearing woodlands is here the fame, as all over Ame-
rica. The hufbandmen harrow the cleared ground two, three, or four
years fucceffively ; during which time wheat is fown. Then they plough,
.but in a very imperfect manner, and fow peafe or oats, and again wheat,
and fo on, according to the common routine. The land yields, in this
ftate, from twenty to thirty bumels per acre.

Corn, for the winter, is fown from the beginning of Auguir. till the
.end of September. Snow falls generally in the latter days of November,
and remains on the ground until the beginning of ApriL Under this
.cover the blade gets up remarkably well ; the corn ripens in July, and the
harveft begins about the end of that month. For want of reapers, the
fcythe is made ufe of, which caufes a great wafte of corn, that cannot be
Jiouied, and merely ferves for feeding pigs. Labourers, whofe common
wages are from three to four millings (Halifax currency), are paid during
the harveft at the rate of one dollar, or fix millings a day. Some farm-
hire Canadians for two or three months, to whom they pay feven or

O o eight

282 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

eight dollars per month, and find them in victuals. It frequently hap-
pens, that thefe Canadians, who bind themfelvcs by a written contrail,
meet with people offering them more money than they receive from
their matters, which not being allowed to accept, they, of courfe, grow
diffatisfied, and work negligently. They muft be procured from the en-
virons of Montreal. Farmers, who have no acquaintance in that coun-
try, find it difficult to obtain them ; and this difficulty deters many cul-
tivators from recurring to that refource, from w r hich they might elle de-
rive confiderable advantages. The harvcft w r ork is therefore generally
performed by the family: thus the houfing of the crops, though it pro-
ceed flowly, is yet accomplimed ; but* the farmer has much additional
trouble, and the lofs he fuftains, by his harveft being lefs perfect, far ex-
ceeds the few dollars, which he would have been obliged to fpend in
gathering in his crops in a more expeditious manner. The foil, which
is but of a middling quality in the vicinity of the town, is excellent about
the bay ; many farmers poiTefs there to the number of one hundred and
fifty acres of land, thoroughly cleared.

The climate of America, efpecially that of Canada, encourages the im-
prudence and covetoumefs of the farmers. There is no danger her, as
in Europe, of the hay rotting, and the grain being fpoiled by rains, if
not fpeedily houfed. There feldom pafles a day without fun-mine ; the
iky is feldom entirely overcaft ; it never rains but during thunder-ftorms,
and this rain never continues longer than two hours. Gram is, befides,
feldom liable here to blights, or any other kind of difeafe.

The cattle are not fubjecl: to contagious diftempers ; they are numer-
ous, without being remarkably fine. The fineft oxen are procured from
Connecticut, at the price of feventy or eighty dollars --a yoke. Cow*
are brought cither from the ftate of New York, and thefe are the fineft ;
or from Canada : the former coft twenty, and the latter fifteen dol-
lars. Thefe are fmall in fize, but, in the opinion of the farmers, better
milch-cows, and are for this reafon preferred. There are ho fine bulls in
the country ; and the generality of farmers are not fenfible of the advan-
tages to be derived from cattle of a fine breed. In fummer the cattk are

turned

BY THE DUKE DE L.i ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 23

turned into the woods ; in winter, that is, fix months together, they are fed
on dry fodder, namely, with the flraw of wheat, rye, or peafe, and on moil
farms with hay cut on fvvampy ground, but by rich and prudent farmers
with good hay. The hay is frequently kept the whole winter within a
fort of fence, covered with large branches, through which, however, the
fnow finds its way ; but commonly it is preferred in ricks badly made, and
under Dutch hay-fheds. The meadows yield to the quantity of four
thoufand pounds per acre, but no aftercrop. There is no ready market
at which a farmer can fell that part of his cheefe and butter, w r hich is not
wanted for the ufe of his family. Of cheefe and butter, therefore, no
mqre is made, than the family need for their own confumption. They
generally begin in the firft days of May to make a provifion for the win-
ter. Some few farmers manufacture coarfc woollens for their own cloth-
ing ; the more ufual way, however, is to buy the clothes. The farmer is
too bufy, has too little affiftance, and makes his calculations with too little
judgment, to engage in fuch a multiplicity of labours.

Sheep are more numerous here than in any part of the United States
which we have hitherto traverfed. They are either procured from Low r er
Canada, or the flate of New York, and coft three dollars a head. They
thrive in this country, but are high legged, and of a very indifferent Ihape.
Coarfe wool, when cleaned, cofts two millings a pound. There are few or
no wolves, rattle-fnakes, or other noxious animals, in this country.

The farmers make but little maple-fugar, though the woods abound
with the trees, from which it is procured. The Indians import about two
or three thoufand pounds, and fell it to the retail traders for one milling
st pound. Maple-fugar is prepared in much larger quantities in Lower
Canada. The Canadians eat it here on bread, or make cakes of it, mixed
up with flour of wheat, or Indian corn. On the maple- tree frequently
grows a fort of knobs, or fungufles, of a very large fize. If thefe ex-
erefcences be torn from the tree, and dried in the fun, they form an excel-
lent tinder, which the Indians and Canadians ufe to light their pipes.
Notwithftanding the great number of pines, no refm has yet been ga-

O o 2 thered,

284 TRAYELS IN NORTH AMERICA.

thered. The culture of hemp and flax has been tried, but hitherto with-
out fuccefs ; the experiments, however, arc continued.

The price of wheat is one dollar per bufhel ; laft year the price was
much lower ; but it has rifen from the general failure of the harveft.
Fire-wood, delivered in the town, cofts one dollar a cord ; in winter it h;
conveyed thither in fledges from all the iilands and banks of the river,
which are covered with wood.

The river freezes over at the diftance of twenty miles above Kingfton.

The price of land is from two millings and fix-pence to one dollar per
acre, if the twentieth part be cleared. This price rifes in proportion- to
the number of acres cleared of wood, though influenced by occafional
circurrrftances. Two hundred acres, one hundred and fifty of which
were cleared, were very lately fold for one thoufand fix hundred dol-
lars: The expence for cutting down all the large trees on an acre, and
mclofing it with a fence as rude as in the United States, amounts to eight
dollars.

There is no regular market in Kingfton ; every one provides hrmfelf
with frefti meat as well as he can> but frequently it cannot be had on any
terms.

For this information I am chiefly indebted to Mr. STEWARD, curate
in Kingfton, who cultivates himfelf feventy acres, a part of two thoufand'
acres, which have been granted' him as an American loyalift. He is a native
of Harrifburg in Pennsylvania, and fecms^to have zealouily embraced the
royal caufe in the American w^ar. Fifteen hundred pounds fterling >
which he had placed in the American funds, have been confifcated. Al-
though he continues warmly attached to the Britim Monarch,, yet he
has become more moderate in his political principles ; he - has preferved
fome friends who efpoufed the eaufc of the Republic, among whom is
Bilhop WHITE, of Philadelphia. Mr. Steward is a man of much gene-
ral information, mild, open, affable, and univerfally refpected ; he is
very ianguine in his expe elation that the price of land will rife, and that
he ihall then be enabled to portion out his numerous children. With-
out

BT THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 285

out being a very fkilful farmer, he is perfe&ly acquainted with the details
f agriculture, fo that I can place implicit confidence on his ftatements,
the truth of which has alfo been confirmed by other hufbandmen.

The number of farmers is very fmall about Kingfton. By Mr. Stew-
ard's report, the agreement between the land-owner and farmer is gene-
rally made for their joint account, but not always faithfully performed.
From his having been impofed upon in fuch agreements, he leafed out
laft year four hundred and thirty aeres> which are fituated on the bay,
and forty of w 7 hich are cleared, for a yearly rent of one hundred and fifty
bufhels of grain ; on condition that, if at the expiration of three years
his tenant be defirous of acquiring the property of thefe lands, he muft
pay him one thoufand dollars ; in default whereof, he is bound to quit
the land, and will confequently lofe all the money and labour fpent in
clearing the ground.

The clergy of the Epifcopal church are the only miniflers in Upper
Canada^ who are paid by government. The members of other religious
feels pay their paftors, if they choofe to have any. In the diftricl of
Kingfton' are Bap tifts, Prefbyterians, Roman Catholics, and Quakers;
but they poflefs no building devoted to religious worihip* Some of the
inhabitants of Kingfton are American loyalifts ; but the majority is com-
pofed of Scots, Englim, Irifh, Germans, and Dutchmen.

The emigration from the United States is not considerable ; during the
laft three or four years it has been very infignificant indeed, but gains
now, it is afferted, a more promifing appearance. This intelligence,
which we firft received from people attached to the Englim government,
has fince been confirmed to us by a great many labourers. Thefe new
colonifts emigrate moft of them from the States of Connecticut, Ver-
mont, and New HamplMre. The emigration from Canada to the United.
States is far lefs confiderable.

If any dependence might be placed on the report of penons, who
arrived four years ago from the River Mohawk, fuch families, as arc
fufpe6led of an attachment to Great Britain, are, in the United States,
looked upon rather with an evil eye ;. but perhaps they give out fuch

reports

&Vl IX NORTH AMERICA,

reports, merely that they may meet with a better reception in the Britiih
poilcillons.

The inhabitants of the difrrid of Kingfton meddle flill left with poli-
tics than the people of Newark. No newfpaper is printed in the town ;
that of Newark is the only one published in Upper Canada, which being
a mere imperfect extract from the Quebec Gazette, is here taken in by
-no one. I know but of two perfons who receive even the Quebec-paper.
As to the interior of the country, no news penetrates into that quarter,
a circumilance that excites there very little regret.

In this district are fome fchools, but they are few in number. The
Children are intruded in reading and writing, and pay each .a dollar a
month. One of the mailers, fuperior to the reft in point of knowledge,
taught X^atin ; but he has left the School, without being Succeeded , by
another inftructor of the fame learning.

There are yet but very few Surgeons in this diftricl: ; they, who
aflume this appellation, contrive to get well paid for their trouble.
Excepting intermittent fevers, which are rather frequent in Kingfton,
the climate is very healthy. The houSes, as has already been obferved,
are built of wood, for reafons which it is extremely difficult to difcern.
The town is feated on rocky ground ; and not the Smalleft houfe can be
built without the foundation being excavated in a rock, a fort of ftone
which affords the twofold advantage of being eaSily cut, and of growing
hard, when expofed to the air, without cracking in the froft. The in-
habitants allow that, if bricklayers were procured even from Montreal
(for there are none in this place), building with ftone would be lefs ex-
penfive than with wood. They grant that, in addition to the greater
folidity of fuch buildings, they would afford more warmth in winter,
and more coolnefs in fummer ; but habit is here, as elfewhere, more
powerful than reafon. Carpenters' wages amount to fixteen fliillings a
day; labourers are equally Scarce in Newark, and consequently as bad
and as dear.

This diftricl; contains no paupers, and, of courfe, there exift no poor-
raj.es ; the taxes are managed in the fame manner as at Newark;

The

THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 287

The roads at Kingfton are much the fame as at Newark ; they are
kept in good repair by ten days' labour, from which none of the inhabi-
tants are excepted, all being obliged to work ten days at the roads. La-
bouring people complain, and not without reafon, that this public bur-
then has not been afleffed in a manner more proportionate to the means
of the inhabitants; and calculate, with fome degree of difcontent, that
their ten days' labour is tantamount to a tax of twelve dollars and up-
wards ; for they muft alfo find their own vi&uals when they work on the
roads.

There is but one church in Kingfton, and this, though very lately built,
refembles a barn more than a church.

We had a letter from General Simcoe to the Commanding Officer in
Kingfton, who, at our arrival, was Captain PARR, of the fixtieth regi-
ment. Six hours after the detachment, commanded by that gentleman,
was relieved by another of the fame regiment, under the orders of Major
DOB SON. This circumftance, however, did not prevent Captain Parr
from giving us the moft obliging proofs of civility and kmdnefs. He is
a fon of the aged Governor of Nova Scotia. At firft he feems cold,
grave, and rcferved but his countenance brightens on a nearer acquaint-
ance, and grows more open, gay, and cheerful ; he foon fell into an eafy
familiarity of converfation, which was heightened during our dinner.
His behaviour was entirely free from ceremony, and indicated that he
was not difpleafed with our fociety.

This dinner, which he gave to the newly arrived officers, forms for us
a remarkable epocha. The ingenuity of the Englim in devifmg toafts,
which are to be honoured with bumpers, is well known. To decline
joining in fuch a toaft would be deemed uncivil ; and, although it might
be more advifeable to fubmit to this charge, than to contract a iickneis,
yet fuch energy of character is feldom difplayed on thefe occaiions. Un-
willing to oppofe the general will, which becomes more imperious in
proportion as heads grow warmer, you refort to flight deceptions in
the quantity you drink, in hopes thus to avert the impending cataftrophe.
But this time none of us, whether French or Engliih, had carried the

deception

$38 -TRAVELS Itf NORTH AMERICA,

deception far enough, and I was concerned to feel, the remainder of the
evening, that I had taken too lively a part in the event of the two de-
tachments relieving each other.

The iixtieth regiment, to which they belong, is the only regiment in
the Englimfervice, excepting the guards, which confifts of four battalions.
This regiment, which at the time of the war of 1/57 was compofed only
of two battalions, was jaifed in America, and as many foreigners as Eng-
limmen were enlifted. It was afterwards augmented to four battalions,
and was confidered, as in facl it is {till in many refpecls, as a foreign
regiment. The ^firft two battalions have never yet left America ; the
two others have been ftationed in Jerfey, Guernfey, and the Antilles,
.General AMHERST is colonel of this regiment*. In point of duty, pro-
motion, and command, the four battalions are perfectly independent of
each other.

The officers we have feen are well bred and extremely polite *
* * * * * ****** ****** * *

The general opinion, in regard to Canada, is, that this country proves.,
at prefent, very burthenfome to England, and will be {till more fo in fu-
ture ; and that, of confequence, Great Britain would confult her true
intereft much better by declaring Canada an independent country, than
by preferving it an Englifh colony, at fo enormous an expence. The
Canadians, fay they, will never be fincerely attached to England, fo
that, if, in time of war, a militia were raifed, not half of them would
take up arms againft America, and none perhaps againft France. The
Britim .government .commits, therefore, in their opinion, a grofs error,
in expending fuch vaft fums in attempting to improve and preferve a
country, -which, fooner or later, is fure to fecede from -Gieat Britain, and
which, did it .remain faithful to the mother country, could not be of
real fervice to it for any length of time.

Thefe gentlemen further afTert, in direcl: contradiction to General Sim*
coe's opinion, that the majority of new fettlers of Upper Canada, who

On the death of Lord Amherft, His Royal Highnefs the Duke of York was ap-
pointed Colonel of the iixtieth regiment. Tranjlatwr.

-emigrate

BY THE DUKE DE tA AOCHBPOUOAL'LT LlANCOURT.

emigrate from the United States, and who are efteemed loyalilts, would
certainly affift thofe States, if they marched any troops into that country.
I am not qualified to form a correct judgment on thefe opinions, which
are perhaps mere efFufions of the difpleafure of officers, obliged to ferve at
fo great a diftance from Great Britain ; * yet they appear to me not alto-
gether deftitute of foundation. But, however this may be, all the Ca-
nadians, we have feen, whether inhabitants of the country or failors, con-
ftantly exprefTed the utmoft fatisfaclion on meeting with us Frenchmen
of old France, and evinced a degree of refpecl and obligingnefs, to which
we had long been unaccuftomed. I cannot fay much on the character
of this people ; all who came under my obfervation were full of fpirit.
active, gay and merry.

The royal navy is not very formidable in this place ; fix veilels com-
pofc the whole naval force, tv> o of which are fmall gun-boats, which we
law at Niagara, and which are ftationed at York. Two fmall fchooners
of twelve guns, viz. the Onondago, in which we took our pafTage, and
the Mohawk, which is juft finifhed ; a fmall yacht of eighty tons, mount-
ing fit guns, and laftly the Miffafoga, of as many guns as the two fchoon-
ers, which has lately been taken into dock to be repaired, form the reft
of it. All thefe veffels are built of timber frefh cut down, and not feafoned,
and for this reafon lafl never longer than fix or eight years. To prefervc
them even to this time requires a thorough repair ; they muft be heaved
down and caulked, which cofts at leaft from one thoufand to one thou-
fand two hundred guineas. The expence for building the largeft of them
amounts to four thoufand guineas. This is an enormous price, and yet
it is not fo high as on Lake Erie, whither all forts of naval ftores muft
be fent from Kingfton, and w r here the price of labour is ftill higher. The

* Whether the political opinions of the officers of the fixtieth regiment, alluded to
fey the Duke, be corretly ftated, muft be left to thefe gentlemen to explain. But
the fuppofition, that Britifh officers, from a there diflike to remote garrifons, mould
cenfure adminiftration for not abandoning a colony, which in the author's opinion is
" a bright jewel in the Britifti crown" " an important conqueft," and the loft of which
appears to him " a public calamity," is an effulion of Gallic petulance, which fhould
not pafs unnoticed. Translator.

Pp timbers

2QO TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

timbers of the Miflafoga, which was built three years ago, are almoft all
rotten. It is fb eafy to make provifion of fhip -timber for many years to
come, as this would require merely the felling of it, and that too at no great
diftance from the place where it is to be ufed, that it is difficult to account
for this precaution not yet having been adopted. Two gun-boats, which
are deftined by Governor Simcoe to ferve only in time of war, are at pre-
fent on the ftocks ; but the carpenters, who work at them, are but eight
in number. The extent of the dilapidations and embezzlements, com-
mitted at fo great a diilance from the mother- country, may be eafily con-
ceived. In the courfe of laft winter, a judicial enquiry into a charge of
this nature was instituted at Kingfton. The commiffioner of the navy,
and the principal mip-wright, it was aflerted, had clearly colluded againil
the King's intereft ; but intereft and protection are as powerful in the
New World as in the Old : for both the commiffioner and ffiip-wright
continue in their places.

Captain BOUCHETTE commands the naval force on Lake Onta-
rio ; and is at the head of all the marine eflablimments, yet without
the leaft power in money- matters. This gentleman pofTeffes the confi-
dence both of Lord Dorchefler and Governor Simcoe ; he is a Canadian
by birth, but entered the Britiili fervice, when Canada fell into the
power of England. While ARNOLD and MONTGOMERY w r ere befieging
Quebec, Lord Dorchefter, difguifed as a Canadian, ftole on board his
fhip into that city, on which occafion he difplayed much activity, intre-
pidity and courage. It is not at all a matter of furprife, that Lord Dor-
chefter mould bear in mind this eminent fervice. By all accounts, he is
altogether incorruptible, and an officer, -who treats his inferiors with
great mildnefs and juftice.

In regard to the pay of the royal marine force on Lake Ontario ; a
captain has ten Ihillings a day, a lieutenant fix, and a fecond lieutenant
three millings and fixpence. The feamens' wages are eight dollars per
month. The mafters of merchantmen have twenty-five dollars, and
the failors from nine to ten dollars a month.

Commodore Boucbctte is among thofe, who moil ftrenuoufly oppofe

the

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOUUT.

the project of removing to York the centra! point of the force on the
lake ; but his family refide at Kingfton ; and his lands are fituated near
that place. Such reafons are frequently of fufficient weight to determine
political opinions.

The defertion among the troops is not fo confiderable from Kingfton,
as from the forts Ofwego, St. John, Niagara, and Detroit; from all thofc
pofts, in iliort, which lie nearer to the United States. Yet, it is pretty
prevalent in all the garrifons of Britifh America. We were told by the
officers, that the firft two or three years after the arrival of the regi-
ment from Europe, no foldier deferts, but that envy and habit foon cor-
rupt their mind. The difcipline appears to me more fevere in the Bri-
tiih fervice, than it ever was in ours ; the men arc treated with lefs atten-
tion and kindnefs.

Several regiments employ the Indians to apprehend deferters. In ad-
dition to the eight dollars, which are allowed by government for every
deferter, brought back to his regiment, the captains promife them eight
dollars out of their private purfe, and infpirit them by fome glalTes of
rum. Thefe Indians then enter the American territory, where they are
acquainted with every foot-path, every track, which they purfue with-
out ever lofmg their way, and frequently fall in with the deferter,
whom they ftop, bind and bring back. If the deferter, which is fre-
quently the cafe, be attended by inhabitants of the United States, the
Indians make no attempt to flop him, but the Englifh officers place fuf-
ficient confidence in the honefty of the Indians to fuppofe, that they will
not fuffer themfelves to be bribed either by money or rum, which the
deferters might offer.

The neareft regular Indian habitations are forty miles diftant from
Kingfton, and belong to the Mohawks. About the fame diftance from
the town are alfo fome villages of the MifTafogas, and wandering tribes
of the fame nation are conftantly rambling about the banks of the lake,
pafs a few nights in one place and a few in another, crofs the river on
the confines of the United States, and ftop in the iflands. Hunting
and fiming are their only employments. They are the filthieft of all

2 the

292 , TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

the Indians, I have hitherto feen, and have the moft ftupid appearance.
They are faid to live poorly, to be wicked and thievilh, and men, wo-
men and children all given to drinking. The uncommon feverity of the
winter in this country occafions not the lean: alteration in their mode of
living. In their fmall canoes they carry with them fome rolls of the '
bark of foft birch *, which ferve to cover the huts, built in form of a
cone, wherein they fleep, and which are fupported merely by fome flight
props, on which reft thefe portable walls, that at the top leave a paflage
for the fmoke.

In the month of September the Indians bring wild rice to Kingfton,
which grows on the borders of the lake, efpecially on the American fide.
This plant, which loves marihy ground, fucceeds there remarkably well.
The Indians bring yearly from four to five hundred pounds of this rice,
which feveral inhabitants of Kingfton purchafe for their own confumption.
This rice is of a fmaller and darker grain than that, which comes from
Carolina, Egypt, &c. but grows as white in the water, is of as good a fla-
vour, and affords full as good nourilhment, as the latter. The culture of
rice would be very ufeful in Europe for the fubfiftence of the poor, efpe-
cially as in thofe parts the frequent ufe of it would not prove injurious to
health, which it certainly does in hot countries. Wild rice is faid to be
the fame plant,. which in Canada is called wild oats (folle avoine).*)*

The fame banks of Lake Ontario, where this wild rice grows, produce
alfo a fpecies of hemp, which grows up to a confiderable height without
the leaft culture, and is apparently as ufeful as that, which is cultivated 5
in France. It is ftronger, produces more feed, and its transplantation to
Europe would probably be attended with beneficial refults,

To beguile ennui, and enjoy a few hours longer the fociety of our
friend, Captain Parr, we accompanied him to the diilance of fix miles
from Kingfton. His detachment occupied feven velTels, and he had one
for himfelf. The foldiers were without exception as much intoxicated

* Betula lenta, Linn, called by the French inhabitants of Canada, merifier, -
t The Duke feems to be mifinformed on this fubjeft. The "Mild oat (avena fatua)
\& a plant altogether different from wild-rice, (oryza iylveftris, Linn.) Tranfl.

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

as I ever faw any in the French fervice. On the day of their de-
parture they were fcarcely able to row, which rendered our tour ex-
tremely tedious. On our return, wind and current were againft us, fo
that we proceeded very flowly. Canadians rowed our boat, and accord-
ing to their cuftom ceafed not a moment to fing. One of them fmgs a
ibng, which the reft repeat, and all row to the tune. The fongs are gay
and merry, and frequently fomewhat more ; they are only interrupted by
the laugh they occasion. The Canadians, on all their tours on the water,
no fooner take hold of the oars, than they begin to fmg, from which they
never ceafe until they lay the oars down again. You fancy yourfelf re-
moved into a province of France ; and this illusion is fweet. Our whole
day, from fix o'clock in the morning until nine at night, was confumed
in- this tour. So much the better ; a day is gone ; for although the un-
wearied politenefs of the officers afford us every day in Kingfton a com-
fortable dinner arid agreeable fociety from four to eight o'clock in the
evening, yet we cannot but feel much ennui in a place, where no fort of
amuicment, no well-informed man, and no books fhorten the long linger-
ing day.

Our fituation is extremely unpleafant, and might well render us me-
lancholy, did we give up our mind to irkibme reflection. Mr. Guille-
mard is gone to Montreal, with the Captain* He is perfectly right, for
He would have fhared in our wearinefs, without giving us the leaft relief.
He is a man of fuperior worth. The goodnefs of his heart, united to the
charms of an enlightened mind, have longinfpired me with the ftrongeft
attachment for him. His determination to leave us gave me, therefore,
the utmoft concern.

After a hearty break faft, ferved up at a place fomewhat remote from*,
the troop, we took leave of Captain Parr. The place, where we break-
failed, belongs to Captain STORE, a native of Connecticut, captain in
the militia of Upper Canada, a loyalift and proprietor of fcven hundred
acres of land, by virtue of a grant of the Britim government. He is
owner of a faw- mi 11, whkh is fituated on the creek of Guanfignougua,
and has two movements, one of which works fourteen, faws, and the

other

TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

other only one. The former may be widened and narrowed ; but fre-
quently cannot work all at once, from the fize of the logs and the thick-
nefs of the boards. We faw thirteen faws going ; a log, fifteen feet in
length, was cut into boards in thirty-feven minutes. The fame power, '
which moves the faws, lifts alfo, as it does near the falls of Niagara,
the logs on the jack. For the favving of logs the Captain takes half
the boards ; the price of the latter is three millings for one hundred feet,
ii one inch in thicknefs, four millings and fixpence, if one inch and half,
-and five millings, if two inches. The fame boards, if only one inch
thick, coft five millings in Kingfton. On the other fide of the creek,
facing Dutchmill (this is the name of Captain Store's mill), ftands ano-
ther mill, which belongs to Mr. JOHNSON, who ufes half the water of
the creek. We viewed the latter only at a diftance from the more ; the
whole profpect is wild, pleafing and romantic, and made me fincerely
regret my unlkilfulnefs in drawing. The land is here as good as at
Kingfton.

Although a communication by land is opened between Montreal and
Kingflon, and though half the road is very good, yet the intercourfe be-
tween thefe places is moftly carried on by water. The rapidity of the
ftream does not prevent veffels from being worked up the river, and
this tedious paffage is preferred to that by land, even for the troops. All
the provifions, with which Canada is Supplied from Europe, are tranf-
-ported in the fame way; and the whole correfpondence is carried on by
this conveyance, but in a manner extremely irregular ; at times eight
days elapfe even in fummer, without any vcflel going up or coming
down the lake.

During our long refidence in Upper Canada we had an opportunity of
feeing a .Canadian family, who were emigrating to the Illinois River.
The hufband had examined the fettlement laft year, and was now re-
moving thither with his whole family, confifting of his wife and four chil-
dren all embarked in a boat made of bark, fifteen feet in length by three
in width. While the parents were rowing at the head and ftern, the
children, excepting the oldeft, who was likewife rowing, were feated

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 2Q5

on mattreffcs or other effects ; and thus they fang and purfued their
voyage of at leaft one thoufand one hundred miles. We '" met them at
Newark. They proceed along the banks of the lakes and rivers, lie ftill
every night, make a fort of tents of their meets fupported by two poles,
drefs their fupper, eat it, wrap themfelves up in their blankets until the
morning, fet off at eight o'clock, ftop once a day to a meal, and then
purfue their voyage again until the evening. They generally advance-
from fifteen to twenty miles a day, but, when bad weather comes on, or
they meet with rapids or other obftructions, which force them to go by
land, their progrefs is morter, and they frequently reft a whole day.
Having fet out from Montreal, they came up Lake Ontario ; thence
they pafs Lake Erie, go up the Miami River, travel about fix or feven
miles by land, and then reach the Theakiki River, which empties itfelf inta
the Illinois, or embark on the Wabam*, which communicates by feveral
branches with the Illinois, and thus proceed to the fpot where they intend
to fettle. New colonifts commonly form their fettlements on the banks
of that river, and chiefly confift of French Canadians.

There is another way from Montreal to the Illinois, which is faid to be
more frequented than the former ;. namely, up the Ottawas River or
Great River f to Nipilfmg Lake, and thence by the French River to Lake
Huron. On this way you meet with thirty-fix places where the boats
are to be carried over land, which, however, are very fhort. From. Lake
Huron you proceed by the Straits of Michillimakkinak to Green Bay,;
thence by the Crocodile River, Roe Lake, artd River Saxe, after a iliort
paflage over land to Ouifconfmg River, which empties itfclf into the Miffi-
jQTippi, which you defcend as far as the Illinois, and thence go up this river.
The way, juft pointed out, is much longer than the other,, but is generally

* This beautiful river of the north-weft territory h peculiarly celebrated on account
of a copper mine on its northern bank, which is the richeft vein of native copper that
has hitherto been difcovered. Tranjl.

t The Duke feems mifinformed as to the appellation of the Great River, by which
the Miami is meant in America, not the Ottawas. Tranjl.

preferred;

TRAVELS IN r NORTH AMERICA,

preferred, efpecially by the agents of the fur^trade. On turning to the
weft ward, this is the fame way, which you travel from Montreal as far
the Straits of Michillimakkinak, which you leave on the left, to reach
Lake Superiour, on which you proceed to the great carrying place,
thence to the Lake of the Woods, and fo on.

The fettlement on the Illinois is a large depot for the fur-trade ; nay,
it is the laft principal factory in that direction, the chief magazine of
which is at Fort Michillimakkinak ; but the agents travel one hundred
.miles farther and traffic even with the Indians of Louifiana.

This traffic is chiefly carried on with rum, but alfo with guns, gun-
powder, balls, blankets, fmaU coral collars, fmall filver buckles, bracelets,
and ear-rings, which arc all worn by the Indians in proportion as they
are more or lefs rich.

The common ibmdard, by which the Indians estimate the value of
their peltry, is the beaver-fkin ; fo many cat-fkins are worth one beaver-
fkin ; buckles, guns, or a certain quantity of rum, are worth one or two
beaver-fkins, or perhaps only a part of one. The traders generally give
the Indians in fummer a part of the articles they want on credit ; but the
ikins they take in exchange are fold at fo low a price, and the provifion
they fell rated fo high, that they can well afford to give credit, the more
fo as the Indians are, in general, pretty punctual in fulfilling their engage-
ments. Thefe Indians hunt, live in families rather than in tribes, and
are, by all accounts, diftingufhed by the fame vices, the fame qualities,
and the fame manners, as thofe w r c have had an opportunity of obferving
in the vicinity of the lakes.

The trade in thefe parts is carried on not by the Hudfon's Bay Com-
pany, but by two or three houfes in Montreal, efpecially by Mr. TODE,
to whom I am indebted for the communication of thefe particulars.
The MifTouri River alone has hitherto been Ihut up againfl foreign traders
by the Spaniards, who have there a fort. Betides the Canadian habita-
tions, which ftand along the banks of the Illinois either fcattered or
aflembled in villages aad towns, the Illinois Town contains about three
thoufand inhabitants. There are alfo fome Canadians, who refide among

the

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

the Indians, and live exactly as they do. All thefc fettlements are in the
north -weft territory, belonging to the United States ; for that part of the
banks of the MhTouri, which appertains to Spain, is not inhabited, ex-
cepting St. Louis and St. Genevieve, for eighty miles from New Orleans,
and but very thinly peopled beyond this.

Such peltry as is exported in the courfe of trade is conveyed to Mont-
real by the fame way which the traders travel to thefe points. The
mouth of the Miffiffippi, which by the new treaty w T ith Spain has been
ceded to the Americans *, and the friendly manner in which the Spa-
nim Governor favours this branch of commerce, procure their trade a more
expeditious and lefs expenilve outlet, fv that in this w r ay the expence
has been leflened one-tenth. By the fame way furs can be tranfmit-
ted either to the United States or to any part of Europe, as the mer-
chant choofes, while all peltry, which reaches Montreal, by the Eng-
lifh laws can be fent only to Great Britain. The provifion to be ex-
changed for thefe articles may alfo be bought in the cheapeft market,
and, confequently, at a much lower rate than in Montreal, where the
exhorbitant duty on all merchandize, landed in Canada, and which,
moreover, Great Britain alone has a right to import, raifes their price in
an enormous degree.

The furs in the whole of this country are of an inferior quality, if com-
pared with the peltry of thofc parts which are fituated north of the lakes,
where the Hudfon's Bay Company alone carries on this trade. By Mr.
Tode's account you may travel, in an eafy manner, from Montreal to the
Illinois in fifteen days, and from the Illinois to New Orleans in twenty. The
navigation of the Miffiffippi is good, but requires great prudence and at-
tention, on account of the rapidity of the ftream, and the great number of
trunks of trees with which its bed is filled in feveral places. The whole
country, through which it flows, is extremely fertile and delightful.

* By the treaty of 1796, between the United States and Spain, the former obtained the
free navigation of the Mifliffippi, but not the ceflion of the mouth or rather mouths of
the river. Tranfi.

Qq On

2Q8 TRAVELS IN NOBTH AMERICA,

On Wednefday the 22d of July arrived the long-expecled anfwer from
Lord Dorchefter. It was of a nature to ftrike us with amazement a fo-
lemn prohibition, drawn up in the ufual form, againft coming to Lower
Canada. It was impoffible to expect any thing of that kind. Mr.
Hammond, the Englifli Minifter to the United States, had invited us
himfelf to vifit Canada, and removed the difficulties, which, from the
report of other Englimmen, I apprehended on the part of the Governor-
general, by alluring me, that Lord Dorchefter had requefted him to take
it for the future entirely upon himfelf, to grant paiTports for Lower Ca-
nada, as he knew better than the Governor-general the travellers w T ho
came from the United States ; and that the letters which he mould give
me would, without previoufly concerting with Lord Dorchefter, fecure
me from all unpleafant incidents. I could not, therefore, entertain the
leaft apprehenfion of a refufal, as I had not the fmalleft reafon to fup-
pofe that Mr. Hammond, who had loaded me with civilities, would have
deceived me on this fubjecl:.

But his Excellency had been pleafed to order his Secretary to fend me
an order of banimment, which he had not even taken the trouble to fign.
They told me, by way of confolation, that his Excellency was rather
weak of intellect, that he did not do any thing himfeif, &c. ; that fome
emigrated French prieft might have played me this trick by his influence
over his Lordfhip's fecretary or his miftrefs ; and well may this be the
cafe ; for, though, Heaven be thanked ! I have never injured any one, yet
I find conftantly people in my way, who endeavour to injure me. But,
be this as it may, a refolution muft be taken, and the beft of any is, to
laugh at the difappointment. May it be the only, or at leaft the moft
ferious fruftration of my hopes, which yet awaits me.

On my arrival in Canada, my Grace was overwhelmed with honours,
attended by officers, complimented and reverenced wherever I made my
appearance ; and now~banimed from the fame country like a mi-*
creant !

" Et je n 'at merit e

(f Nt cet exces cChmneur nl cette indignite"

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

On fuch occasions, as in many other fituations in life, we ought to
call to mind, that our own fentiments and feelings can alone honour or
degrade us, and that confcious rectitude exalts us above all villains, great
and low, above all fools, and all ta tiers.

My eagernefs to quit the Engliih pofleffions as foon as pofiible, after
the receipt of this letter, will be eafily conceived ; though, upon the
whole, I cannot too often repeat, that the civilities (hewn us by the
Englifh officers at Kingfton, as well as Niagara, deferve our warmed
praife.

Major DOBSON being fenfible of the necefllty of our leaving Canada
with the utmoft fpeed, affifted us with true and iincere politenefs, but
for which we mould not have been able to attain our end ib fbon as we
wifhed ; for, generally, no veflel fails from Kingfton to the American
coaft except twice a year. He lent us his own barge, on board of which
we embarked, four hours after the receipt of the Secretary's letter, for
the United States, where no commandant, no governor, no minifter, en-
joys the right of offending honeft men with impunity.

We fhaped our courfe for Ofwego, where we hoped to meet with an
opportunity of a fpeedy paflage for Albany. The four fbldiers, who com-
pofed our crew, were intoxicated to fuch a degree, that the firft day we
fcarcely made fifteen miles, though we failed twelve of them. Mr. Le-
moine, the officer who commanded them, made them pay dear for the
delay of the preceding day, by obliging them to row this day at leaft
fifty-five miles. We left, at four o'clock in the morning, the long iiland
where we pafled the night. A heavy fall of rain had wetted us through
to the fkin ; the wind had deftroyed die flight covering we had made of
branches of trees ; the mufquitoes had nearly devoured us ; in iliort, we
had fcarcely enjoyed a moment's reft. But the weather cleared up ; the
morning grew fine ; and we foon forgot the fufferings of the preced-
ing night.

We reached Ofwego at half paft eight in the evening, having fcarcely
{lopped an hour in the whole courfe of the day. This pafTage is feldom ;

Qq 2 effected

300 TRAVELS IN" NORTH AMERICA,

effected in lefs than two days ; but inftead of coafting along the ihore,
we ftretched from the place where we breakfailed ftraight over to Of-
wego, without approaching the land ; an undertaking, which, but for the
fairnefs of the weather, might have proved extremely hazardous.

Previous to our departure, we enjoyed the fatisfaction of hearing the
report of Admiral Hotham's fecond victory in the Mediterranean, and of
the capture or defr.ru ction of four French fnips, with fifteen thoufand
land-troops on board, deftined for Corfica, contradicted by an officer, who
arrived from Quebec. This action had been fo frequently alleged to
us, as a proof of the immenfe fuperiority of Englim fhips over the
French, that we felt extremely happy on finding the whole report vanifu
like a dream.

The reftoration of tranquillity and order in our country depends,- at
this time, more than ever on the fuccefTes of the French. May they be
as complete as I wifh. Good God, what would have become of us, if
Great Britain and her allies fhould prove victorious ! I am free Heaven
be thanked ! from the rage againft the Engliih nation, which pofleiTes fo
many Frenchmen, and cannot be juftified by the flill fiercer rage of fome
Englifhmen againft the French. The Englim are a gallant and great na-
tion ; I wifh they might be imcerely allied with France *
************* *******

Ofwego is one of the pofts, which Great Britain has hitherto retained,
in open violation of the treaty of peace, though Ihe will be obliged to
deliver it up to the United States, in the courfe of next year. It is a
miferable fort, which, in the year 1782, was built at a confiderable ex-
pence by General HALDIMAN, at that time Governor of Canada. The
river Ofwego, at the mouth of which the fort is feated, is at prefent al-
mofl the only courfe for American vefTels to Lake Ontario. The fort is
in a ruinous ftate ; one fmgle baftion, out of five, which form the whole
of the fortifications, is kept in better repair than the reft, and might icrve
as a citadel, to defend for fome time the other works, indefenfible. by any
other means. The prefent garrifon confifts of two officers and thirty
men, under whofe protection a cuftomhoufe-officer fearches all the vef-

fels,

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 3Q1

fels, which fail up or down the river. It is not lawful to import any
other articles from the United States into Canada, but grain, flour, cat-
tle, and provifion, and no commodities are fufFered to be exported to
the United States, without exprefs perrmffion from the Governor of Up-
per Canada ; nay, this prohibition extends even to perfons, who, if they
intended to proceed to that country without fuch permiffion, would be
imprifoned. As to the prohibited exports in merchandize, they are con-
fifcated, without exception, for the benefit of the cuftomhoufe-officer,
by whom they are feized. This naturally prompts his zeal, and increafes
his attention ; but there are fo many points along the coaft, where the
contraband trade can be carried on, that it will hardly be attempted in
this place, where the Americans are fure to encounter fo many difficul-
ties and obilructions. Yet fome veflels, now and then, flip out, under
favour of the night. Two or three, which failed in the attempt, were
laft year taken and condemned. The large income of the receiver of
cuftoms, placed here three years ago, has hitherto been confined to thefe
perquifites. Americans, who from an ignorance of the feverity and lati-
tude with which Englifh prohibitions are enforced, have a larger quan-
tity of provifion on board, than the rigour of the Englifh law permits,
frequently fee the furplus connfcated to the augmentation of the cuf-
toms, which, if exacted by lefs delicate hands than thofe of the prefent
receiver, might be carried to a. much larger amount.

This officer is called Intendant General : a fine title, which ornaments
a ftation, that, in fact, knows no fuperiors, but has alfo no inferiors, ex-
cepting a director, who refides at Niagara. The intendant general has
not even a fecretary. His pay is ten millings a day, and a ration, which
is estimated at two. He receives his pay all the year round, though the
navigation of the lake is entirely interrupted for five months, and he him-
felf is feven months abfcnt from Ofwego. Decorated with fuch a title,
and furnimed with fuch an income, he will hardly be fuppofed to tranf-
a<5t himfelf the trifling bufmefs of his place. This is entrufled to a non-
commiffioned officer,, who makes his report. This is figned by the in-
tendant general, who, in cafe of abfence from the fort, leaves blanks

figned

302 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

figned on his table. This permit, which authorizes all vefTels bound for
Canada, to proceed thither, muft alfo be figned by the commanding offi-
cer, for which every veflel pays three-fourths of a dollar. For failing up
the lake a verbal permit is given gratis.

The prefent intendant general is an interefting young man, of the
name of MAC-DONALD, who, in addition to his talents ami abilities,
poffefles all the peculiar merits, for which his family has long been dif-
tinguifhed in Canada. They came from Scotland, and fettled here about
twenty years ago. Mr. Mac-Donald ferved as an officer in the American
war. He is now on half-pay ; his brothers hold commhTions in a Cana-
dian regiment, lately raifed, and one of them is fpeaker of the houfe of re-
prefentatives of Upper Canada.

A man of Mr. Mac-Donald's extraction, in France, would injure his cha-
racter, in the public opinion, by accepting a place in the cuftoms. In Eng-
land they know better. There, no injurious idea attaches to any profef-
fion, which concurs in the execution of the laws ; and no blame attaches
to a nobleman for holding a place in the commiffion of the cuftoms, or
turning merchant. He is, on the contrary, refpecled as much as if he
belonged to the church, the army, or the navy, or were placed in any other
honourable fituation. Yet, if public opinion were altogether founded on
juft and reafonable principles, it mould ftigmatize all perfons, who hold
iinecures without any ufeful employment, and prefs confequently as
dead burthens on the State. This, however, is not the cafe in England.

The number of veiTels, which afcend and defcend the Ofwego during
the feven months, the navigation is open, amounts to about thirty a
month. By Mr. Mac-Donald's account far the greater number of
them carry new fettlers to Upper Canada, at which I am not aftonimed,
it being a certain facl, that the emigration from the United States to
Canada is far more considerable, than from the latter to the former
country.

Fort Ofwego is the only fettlement on the banks of the lake between
Kingfton and Niagara, excepting Great Sodus, where Captain Williamfon
forms one, and which bids fair, as has already been obferved, to become

very

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 303

very profperous ; it is thirty miles diftant from the fort. Twelve miles
behind Ofwego, {lands, on the river, the firft American fettlement. This
fort muft therefore fliift for itfelf. The officers hunt, read, and drink;
and the privates do duty, are difpleafed with their fituation, and defert.
For this reafon the oldeft foldiers are felecled for the garrifon of Ofwego ;
and yet, though lefs open to temptation, they defert to the United States.
This fort, which lies too remote for any communication with foreign
countries, is for five months together completely cut off from, the reft of
the world ; the fnow lying then fo deep, that it is impoffible to go abroad
but in fnow-moes. A furgeon, who has feven millings and fixpence a
day, augments the company in Ofwego. The gentleman, who fills this
place at prefent, contributes much to heighten the pleafure of the fociety,
by fubmitting to be the general butt of railleries and jefts.

The nearefh Indian habitations are forty miles diftant from Ofwego ;
and yet there is an Indian interpreter appointed at this fort, who has
three {hillings and fixpence a day and a ration. He was employed during,
the laft war. In other places his appointment might carry at leaft fome
appearance of utility ; but here he is paid without having any employ-
ment. The commanding officer has five millings a day in addition to
the pay he enjoys by virtue of his commiffion ; he keeps oxen, cows,,
fheep, fowls, &c. which, as a permanent ftock, one commanding officer
leaves to his fucceffor at a fettled price.

The gardens are numerous, and beautiful, in the vicinity of the fort ;
the lake as well as the river abounds with fim ; the chace procures plenty
of game. The officers, therefore, live well in this wildernefs, which they
call Botany Bay, and yet wim to wreft from the Americans. We ex-
perienced from all of them a very kind reception.

The land in the neighbourhood of Ofwego is very indifferent ; the
trees are of a middling growth, and the wood-lands have a poor appear-
ance.

As fate would not permit me to fee Lower Canada, I {hall here throw
together fome particulars, I had collected refpecling that country. I
counted on certifying and arranging them on the fpot ; and although 1 have

not-

3O4 . TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

not been able to do this, yet they fhall not be loft, either to my felt or
my friends.

The people of Canada poffefs the French national character ; they are
active, brave, and induftrious ; they undergo the fevereft toils, endure
hardships with fortitude, and confole and comfort themfelves with
fmoaking, laughing and fmging ; they are pleafed with every thing, and
checked and difpirited by nothing, neither by the length, or exceffive
fatigue of a journey, nor by the bad quality of their food, if their fpirits
be kept up by pleaiantries and jefts. They are employed in all voyages.
At the beginning of fpring they are called together from the dif-
terent dhtricts of both provinces, either for the King's fervice, or
that of trade. The people, employed in this manner, refide about
Montreal, and fome miles lower down, as far as Quebec. Several of
them live in Montreal, where they carry on a trade, which occu-
pies them in winter. Their own inclination and tafte invite them to
this active and roving mode of life. Some of them are farmers, who
leave the houfing of the harveft to their wives and neighbours ; others
are artizans, w 7 ho Ihut up their fhops and depart. We met fome of
them, who were tanners, faddlers, butchers, joiners, &c. and who by all
accounts were very good w r orkmen. They leave their country for a
fummer, for one year or more, according to the work, which they are
called to perform ; and fometimes only for a fhort voyage. In the King's
fervice they are employed in working the fhips from Montreal, or rather
China, which is three miles nearer, up to Kingfton. This paiTage, which
is rendered extremely troublefome by the numerous rapids m the river,
takes up nine days, more or lefs, the back paffage only three days, and
the lading and unlading at leaft one. For this voyage they receive twp
Louis d'ors and are found in victuals ; if not employed in actual fervice,
they receive no pay. They now begin to ferve as failors on board the
fhipping on the lake. Commodore Bouchette is much pleafed with
them. Their wages amount to nine dollars a month both on board the
King's mips, and in merchantmen, engaged in the fur-trade.

Mr. MACKENZIE was attended by feveral of them on his travels to

the

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 3O5

the South Sea; he brings them back with him from a journey, which,
it was fuppofed, would extend as far as the former, but which he intends
to terminate at the laft factory. By the account of the Englifh them-
felves, who do not like them, they are the beft rowers, extremely dexte-
rous in extricating themfclves from difficulties, inured to labour, and
very fober, though at times they are apt to drink rum rather too freely.
In this cafe their gaiety grows noify, while the Englifh in a fimilar fitua-
tion frequently grow fad and melancholy.

There exift few people, among whom crimes are lefs frequent, than
among the Canadians ; murders are never committed, and thefts very
feldom ; yet the people in general are ignorant. But this defect is to be
imputed lefs to the people, than the government, whofe fyftern it is to
cherifh and preferve this ignorance. No colleges have yet been efta-
bliihed in Canada ; and the fchools are very few in number. Hence it is,
that the education even of the richeft Canadians is much neglecled ; but
few of them write with any tolerable correclnefs of fpelling, and a {till
fmaller number poflefs any knowledge, though fome of them hold feats
in the Legiflative Council of the province. I muft, however, mention,
that I have received this information from Englifhmen, whofe accounts
of the Canadians dcferve but little credit, from the moil prominent fea-
ture of their national character confifting in a warm attachment to
France, which on every occafion they difplay more or lefs, according to
the clafs of fociety, to which they belong, and to the extent of their
willies and expectations, relative to the Britifli government.

I have already obferved, that all the families in Canada have retained
the French manners and cuftoms ; that but very few Canadians, perhaps
not one in a hundred, underftand the Englilhi tongue ; that they will not
learn it, and that none of thofe, who underftand that language, will
talk it, except thofe, who from the nature of their employments have a
conftant intercourfe with the military.

The Britifh government has, fince the conqueft, from a filly affecta-
tion, changed the names of the towns, iilands, rivers, nay of the fmalleft

R r creeks.

306 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

creeks. But the Canadians make no ufe of thefe new appellations, but
either from affectation or habit retain the ancient French names.

Many members of the AfTembly, as well as of the Legiflative Council
of Lower Canada, are French inhabitants of Canada ; the debates are car-
ried on there in the French and Englifh languages ; the fpeech of the
French member is immediately tranflated into Englifh, and of the Englifh
into French.

The inveterate hatred of the Englifh againft the French, which is at
once fo ridiculous, fo abfurd, and fo humiliating for the people, infomuch
as it proves them to be mere tools of the ambition of their miniftry this
hatred, which the lights, diffufed through both countries, and the fre-
quent intercourfe between the two nations, had nearly deftroyed in Eu-
rope, before the French revolution broke out, has not abated here in the
lame degree. No Canadian has juft grounds of complaint againft the
Britifh government ; the inhabitants of Canada acknowledge unani-
moufly, that they are better treated than under the ancient French go-
vernment ; but they love the French, forget them not, long after them,
hope for their arrival, will always love them, and betray thefe feelings
too frequently and in too frank a manner, not to incur the difpleafure
of the Englifh, who even in Europe have not yet made an equal pro-
grefs with us in difcarding the abfurd prejudices of one people againft
another.

When Lord Dorchcfter, at the appearance of a war with the United
States, tried laft year to embody the militia in Canada, he met every-
where with remonftrances againft this mealure. A great number of Ca-
nadians refufed to enlift at all ; others declared openly, " that if they
were to aft againft the Americans, they would certainly march in de-
fence of their country, but that againft the French they mould not
march, becaufe they would not fight againft their brethren." Thefe de-
clarations and profeffions, communicated to me by Englifh officers, and
of confequence unqueftionably true, were not the efFecls of Jacobin in-
trigues ; for, it is afTerted, that at that very period the emiflaries of the

Convention

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 307

Convention complained of the character of the Canadians being averfe
to an infurrection ; but they are the natural refults of their attachment to
France, which neither time, nor the mildnefs of the Englifh adminiftra-
tion has hitherto been able to extirpate. The notions of liberty and in-
dependence are, from their political fituation, foreign to their minds.
They pay no taxes, live well, at an eafy rate, and in plenty ; within the
compafs of their comprehenfion they cannot wifli for any other good.
They are fo little acquainted with the principles of liberty, that it has coft
a great deal of trouble to eftablim juries in their country ; they oppofe the
introduction of the trial by juries, and in civil caufes thcfe are not yet in
ufe. But they love France ; this beloved country engages ftill their af-
fection. In their eftimation, a Frenchman is a being far fuperior to an
Englishman. The French are the firft nation on earth ; becaufe, attacked
by all Europe, they have repulfed and defeated all Europe. The Cana-
dians confider themfclves as Frenchmen ; they call themfelves fo ; France
is their native land. Thefe fentiments and feelings cannot but be highly
valued by a Frenchman, who muft love and refpect the good people of
Canada. But, it will be eafily conceived, that they difpleafe the Eng-
lifh, who frequently difplay their ill-humour, efpecially the fpirited and
impatient Britiih officers, by defpifmg and abufmg the Canadians. " The
French," fay they, " beat them, ftarved them, and put them into irons ;
they mould therefore be treated by us in the fame manner." Such are
the opinions on this amiable and liberal-minded people, which you hear
delivered during an Englifh repaft ; fcveral times have I heard them with
indignation. People of more prudence and referve, it is true, do not pro-
fefs thefe fentiments in the fame rafh and public manner ; but they en-
tertain them, and the people of Canada know full well, that fuch are, in
regard to them, the fentiments of the generality of Englifhmen.

Lower Canada, which pays no more taxes than Upper Canada, has of
late been obliged to raile a yearly contribution of five thoufand pounds
iterling, to meet the public expence for the administration of juiHce, le-
giflature, and other items in this province. This contribution or import
is laid on wine, brandy and other articles of luxury ; it is raifed as an ex-

R r 2 cife,

308 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

cife, and confequently is an indirect tax, but little burthenfome from its
amount, as well as from the mode in which it is raifed ; and yet it has
excited much difcontent and difpleafure againft the reprefentatives, who
fan&ioned it by their confent.

This is an outline of the fentiments, which prevail among the people
of Canada, and which I mould have more clofely examined, had I been
permitted to vifit Lower Canada. I have been aflured, that Lord Dor-
chefter, in confequence of the refufal of the Canadians, to be embodied
in regiments, defired laft year to return to England. Whether this be
the true motive of his defire to reflgn, which is a certain fad;, I know
not. His difpleafure may alfo, perhaps, have been excited by the
marked difapprobation of the Englifh miniftry, refpe&ing his addrefs to
the Indian nation. However this may be, his refignation has not been,
accepted. Lord Dorchefter, from his constant good and kind demean-
our to the Canadians, imagined he was beloved by that nation ; his ad-
miniftration has throughout been marked with mildnefs and juftice ; he
has fupported the new constitution ; he loves the Canadians, but his felt-
love as w r ell as patriotifm and national pride have been much humbled by
the fentiments, difplayed laft year by the people of Canada.

I have already mentioned a converfation, in the courfe of which fcveral
officers delivered it as their opinion, that it would be for the intereft of
Great Britain to give up Canada. This is the general opinion of all Eng-
lifhmen, who refide in this country, excepting fuch as on account of
their ftations and emoluments hold a different language. They, who mare
in the government and adminiftration of Canada, the Englifh merchants
and families, who have long refided here, are far from profeffmg thefe
principles, from a conviction, that in the procefs of time Great Britain
will reap confiderable benefits from the povleffion of Canada. Thefe are
not the ideas which I entertain on this fubjecl, confidering either the
extent or the nature and complexion of the Englifh adminiftration and
government in this part of the globe. I conceive, that the enormous
expence, incurred by Great Britain, is ablblutely unnecefTary, and that
the flate of independence, in which Ihe endeavours to keep Canada, does

not

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 3OQi

not afford the greatefl and mofl permanent advantage fhe might derive
from that country.

What would be faid of a miniflry, which would attempt to convince
England, that the proceeds of her trade and extenfive navigation to Ca-
nada fall much ihort of her yearly expence to maintain herfelf in the pof-
feffion of that colony, and propofe to the Britifh cabinet, to declare it
independent, to affifl it with fubfidies the firfl years, and immediately to
conclude with the Canadian government a treaty of amity and com-
merce ? Such a miniflry would undoubtedly be confidered as a fet of
rank Jacobins, And yet it is highly probable, that Great Britain, while
on the one hand me faved a confiderable expenditure, would on the other
lofe none of her commercial advantages, form a permanent and extenfive
connexion with Canada ; and would fpare herfelf the humiliation of
another colony being difmembered from the Britifh empire. But fuch a
refolution mould be embraced without any fecret views, and hidden pro-
jecis, loyally and frankly ; fo that Canada, enjoying all the bleffmgs of li-
berty and profperity, might have no jufl grounds for any fmiflrous appre^
henfions. However abfurd this language may appear, it is perhaps pre-
cifely that, which all European powers mould, at this time, hold to their
continental colonies ; nay, with fome modification, I think it mould evea
be addrefled to the Wcfl-Indian Iflands. But away with political fpecu-
lations !

The Roman Catholic priefls in Upper Canada are of the fame cafl as
our former country curates ; their whole flock of knowledge being con-
fined to reading and writing, they are of courfe unenlightened and fuper-
flitious. The French revolution has brought thither fome of a fuperior
character, who are probably lefs indolent and more tolerant than the for-
mer. I am unacquainted with them, but the Britifh officers are fo
aflonimed at feeing French priefls pofTefTed of fome fenfe and knowledge,
that, in their opinion, they are very clever.

The only branch of commerce belonging to Canada is the fur trade; with
the whole extent and annual amount of which I had fome hopes of get-
ting acquainted during my intended refidence at Montreal. I know from
Governor Simcoe, that it is far more infignificant, than is generally be-
lieved,

310 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

lieved, and that a considerable contraband trade in this article is already
carried on in the United States, the chief agents of which are Canadian
merchants. I know alfo, that this contraband trade, which they encou-
rage on the riv^er St. Lawrence, may likewife be carried on, without their
affiftance, with the United States, on Lake Erie, as well as on feveral
points of the banks of Lake Ontario ; and that the furrender of this fort
to the United States, and the fubfequent American fettlements on the
frontiers, will render it altogether impoffible, to prevent this contraband
trade. Befides, it is well known, that the Canadian merchants, who fend
the peltry to England, are the abfolute matters of this trade in this coun-
try, and that a monopoly, which raifes the price of commodities to an ex-
orbitant height, is the moil powerful incitement to fmuggling.

All the mips, in which the trade between Canada and Europe is car-
ried on, are Englifli bottoms ; none of them belong to merchants of the
country. Thefe poilefs but a few veflels, which are built at Quebec, and
employed in the inland trade. In no parts of Britim America are any
"Ihips built, but fuch as navigate the lakes: even at Halifax, fhips are not
built, but merely caulked and refitted. No fhips but Englifh bottoms
are fufFered to fail from Canada for Europe ; whence it is, that, if this
navigation be intercepted or protracted, the utmoil fcarcity of European
provifion prevails in that country. This year, for inftance, all the ma-
gazines and warehoufcs in Canada were empty, on account of the fhips,
which generally arrive about the 1 5th of May, not having yet come in
on the 20th of July. Since the ift of July, not a bottle of wine, or
a yard of cloth, could be procured for money, either at Quebec or
Montreal. The officers, who came from thefe towns, and had not been
able to fupply their wants, complained of the abfolute impoffibility of
procuring any ncceflkry article in Canada; and, I underftand, the
difcontent, which prevails on this fubject, is not confined to the mili-
tary.

It is agreed, on all hands, that the Canadians are indifferent hufband-
men, that agriculture is imperfectly understood in this colony, and that,
in this refpecl:, the Englifh have not tranfplanted hither either their own
agricultural improvements, or any branch of European ikill. The land

BY THE DUKE DE LA HOCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 311

is good, upon the whole ; the beft, which is in the ifland of Montreal, is
worth from twenty to twenty-four dollars an acre. From this circum-
ftance, which is certain, the wealth of the country may be partly efti-
mated.

The fevere froft, which in winter generally prevails in Quebec, caufes
the mortar to crack, and every year occafions expenfive repairs at the ci-
tadel, which never laft long. The other ftrong places in Britim Ame-
rica are conftructed of wood, which is never feafoned, but ufed as foon
as felled, and confequently decays very foon. In the whole fort of Of-
wego, which was built about eleven years ago, there is not one found
piece of timber to be found ; and for the fame reafon the citadel of Ha-
lifax, which was conftructed only {even years ago, is now rebuilding from
the ground. This is all the information, which I have been able to col-
lect, and which, however imperfect it be, may yet ferve as a guide to
other travellers in their purfuits of ufeful knowledge.

The northern borders of the bafon, which holds the waters of the Ni-
agara, juft above the falls, confifl of a fat and ilrong rcddim earth, lying
on a ground of lime-ftone.

The rocks, between which the ftupendous cataract of Niagara rufhes
down, are alfo lime-ftone, as are numerous fragments of rocks, which ap-
pear within the chafm, and have undoubtedly been fwept away by the
tremendous torrent. At the bottom of the bafon you lee alfo large
mailes of white ftone, of a fine grain, which the inhabitants affert to be
the petrified foam of the fall, but which, in fact, appears to confiil of
vitriolated lime. It does not efferveice with acids. I have tried no other
experiments.

The ground between the falls and Queen's Town is a level tract, forne
hundred feet elevated above the plain, which joins Lake. Ontario, and in
which the town of Newark, and the fort of Niagara are fituated.

This whole tract {terns to confift of lime and free ftone, which contain
petrifactions of fea animals.

Over the plain near Newark are fcattered large mafles of a reddifh gra-
nite, which lie infulated on the lime-ftone, like the large blocks of gra-
nite,.

312 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

nite, which you fee on Mount Salevc, near Geneva ; fo that it is impofli-
ble to account for their origin.

In the environs of Toranto, or York, the foil is in fome places fendy, in
others light clay ; no rocks are here to be found.

In Kingfton, or Kadaraque, on the north -eafterly extremity of Lake
Ontario, you find again the argillaceous, fine grained lime-ftone, of a dark
grey colour. Here, as nearly all along the borders of the lake, are found
different forts of flints, fchift, quartz, and granite.

You alfo find at Kingfton, at no great diftance from the more, a large
black conglomeration, which has the appearance of bafalt, and great quan-
tities of free-ftonc, with petrifactions of fea animals.

The trees and plants, I have met with in Upper Canada, are nearly
the fame, which I obferved in the northern diftricl: of Geneflee. Yet I
found the tuck-eye, called by the Canadians bois chicot, the five-leaved
ivy, which I have feen branched thirty feet high around an oak tree, the
red cedar, the fmall Canadian cherry (ragou minier), and black or fweet
birch. 1 have feen neither a papaw, nor a cucumber tree. The gin-
feng root, which is pretty common in the territory of the United States,
abounds in Canada, but forms here not fo confiderable an article of trade,
as in the former country. The Canadians ufe an infufion of this root as
a cure for pains in the ftomach, efpecially if they proceed from debility ;
for colds, and, in fhort, in all cafes where perfpiration may be required.
They alfo make ule of the leaves of maiden hair*, which is found in
great abundance in the vicinity of Kingfton, inftead of tea.

Mr. Guillemard having communicated to me the journal of his tour
to Lower Canada, I mall extract from it fuch particulars, as appear moft
proper to fill up the deficiencies of the information, which I have myfelf
been able to collecl. This journal confirms, upon the whole, the general
obfervations, which I havt made on that country. Although the intelli-
gence, gathered by Mr. Guillemard, be not altogether as minute as I could

Adianthum capillus veneris, Linn, a plant, from which the once celebrated " fyrop de
*' capillaire" took its name, which P. Fonnius, a phyfician of Montpellier, recommended
.as an univerfal medicine, in his treatife " De Adiantho," publiihed 1631. Tranfl.

have

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 313

have wifhed, yet from the correclnefs of his judgment, and his character
for veracity, the truth of his remarks cannot be queitioned.

The pafiage from Kingfton to Quebec is made, as tar as China, in Ca-
nadian veilels of about ten or fifteen tons burthen. The navigation from
China to Montreal being intercepted by the falls of St. Louis, this part
nmir. be travelled by land. Ships of any burthen may fail from Mon-
treal to Quebec.

The rapids are of various defcriptions. They are either whirlpools,
occafioned by rocks, againit which the water ftrikes in its courfc, or
ilrong declinations of the bed of the river, the rapid motion of which
is checked by few or no obftrucftions. Carried by rapids of this nature,
ihips may advance fixteen miles in an hour. Thofe of the former de-
fcription are the moft dangerous, though misfortunes but feldom occur.
They are moft frequent on the cedar paflage.

From Montreal to Quebec the river flows with great velocity, but
without any rapids. In Lake St. Peter * mips muft keep within a na-
tural canal, from twenty to fifteen feet in depth ; in other places the lake
is only from four to fix feet deep. It is under contemplation to make a
canal from China to Montreal, by which the interruption of the water
conveyance from China to Montreal will be removed.

There are few or no fcttlements between Kingfton and St. John's., the
chief place of the lower diitricl: of Upper Canada, about midway between
Kingfton and Montreal. -f* Between this place and Montreal they are
rather more numerous, yet ftill few in number.

The right banks, belonging to England, are more thinly inhabited than
the left. The few habitations you here meet with lie, almoil all of
them, contiguous to the river. Between Montreal and Quebec they ftand
more clofely togethci. Even the inland parts are inhabited within three

* This lake is a part of St. Lawrence river. Its centre is fixty eight, miles above
Quebec, and two hundred and five north-earl of KInglton, at the mouth of Lake Ontario.
/ raiijlator.

f St. John's belongs not to the lower diftrrft of Upper Can*da, but to Lower Canada,
By an ordinance of the 1th of July, 1796, it has been cftablifhecl as the fole port of entry
and clearance for all goods imported from the interior of the United Starrs into Canada.
Trarjlaior.

Sf or

314 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

or four miles of the more ; and fo are almoft all the borders of the rivers
and brooks which fall into the ftream. To judge from the habitations
and the mode of cultivation, thefe fettlements are the worft of any you
meet with in the United States ; on the right fide of the river the plan-
tations do not extend to fo great a diftance into the interior of the
country.

The foil is generally good, efpecially in the hlands. It bears a variety
of fine trees and excellent grafs. The land in the ifland of Montreal is
efteemed the beft ; while in other inhabited parts the price of the land is
at moft five dollars per acre, it cofts in the ifland of Montreal from twenty
to twenty-five. There are eftates in the vicinity of Quebec either fome-
what better cultivated than the reft, or furnimed W'ith a good dwelling-
houfe and out-buildings, the lands belonging to which bear a ftill higher
price. Upon the whole there is but little land fold, either from the
poverty of the inhabitants, or the difficulties attending a fale, for reafons
which I mall detail in another place.

Agriculture is as bad in Lower Canada as it poffibly can ber In the
vicinity of Quebec and Montreal no manure is known but ftable dung,
and even this the farmers ufed not long ago to throw into the river.
What is here called cultivated land is, even on the banks of the river,
neither more nor lefs than ground merely cleared in traces of about forty
or fifty acres, and enclofed with rough fences. In the midft of thefe
trafts are fmall plots of cultivated ground fown with wheat, Indian corn,
rye, peafe, and clover ; they very feldom take up the whole fpace en-
clofed. The farmers are a frugal fet of people, but ignorant and lazy.
hi order to fucceed in enlarging and improving agriculture in this pro-
vince, the Englifh government muft proceed with great prudence and
perfeverance. For, in addition to the unhappy prejf dices, which the in-
habitants of Canada entertain in common with the farmers of all other
countries, they alfo fofter a ftrong miftruft againft every thing which they
receive from the Englifh ; and this miftruft is grounded on the idea, that
the Englifh are their conquerors, and the French their brethren.

There

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 315

There are fome exceptions from this bad agricultural fyftem, but they
are few. The beft cultivators are always landholders arrived from Eng-
land. Mr. Touzy, an Englifh clergyman in Quebec, who arrived very
lately from Suffolk in England, is now occupied in clearing and cultivat-
ing in the Englilh manner from feven to eight thoufand acres, which he
holds from government, or at leafl a part of this grant. Should he be
gifted with Sufficient perfeverance to fucceed, he cannot fail to become
extremely ufeful to this part of the globe. In the mean while, it is a
matter of general allonimment in Quebec, that he fhould form any fuch
eflablifhments at fo great a difhmce from the town, and yet this diftance
exceeds not fifteen miles.

On the road from Montreal to Quebec the dwelling-houfes are fome of
them built with fmall {tones, and others with wood plaftered over with
lime, which abounds in the country ; the iniide of fuch of thefe build-
ings, as are inhabited by Canadians, is miferable and filthy. In moft of
them, w T hich ftand along the road, and where of confequence the death
of the King of France is known, you find his portrait, the print which
reprefents him taking leave of his family, his execution, and his laft
will. All thefe prints are fomething venerable to the Canadians, without
impairing their attachment to the French.

Montreal and Quebec referable two provincial towns in France ; the
former Hands in a pleafant and delightful fituation ; the latter is feated
half on the bank of the river and half on the adjoining rock. The lower
part of the town is inhabited by the merchants and trade's-people, and
the upper part by the military. From its pofition, encircled as it is with
mountains, and from the works conftrufted to encreafe its actual ftrength,
Quebec belongs to the fortrefles of the fecond or third rank.

The military, it feems, enjoy in this city, on account of the prefence
of the Governor-general, and of the great number of officers and other
perfons attached to the army, the fame diftinclion in fociety, which the
merchants poflefs at Montreal.

The Canadian gentry, who refide in towns, are much poorer than the
Englifh, invited hither either by confiderable pay, attached to their

S f 2 places,

31(5 TRAVELS IN NOHTH AMERICA,

places, or fome other valuable income. They live in general by themfelves ;
and as they fpend lefs than the Englifh, the latter are apt to call them
avaricious and proud ; and the former fail not to return the compliment
In a different manner. The Englifh merchants are rich and hofpitable.

In point of furniture, meals, &c. the Englifh fafhions and manners
prevail, even in fome of the moil opulent Canadian families connected
with administration. In other Canadian families of distinction the French
cuStoms have been preferved.

The export and import trade of Canada employs about thirty vcflcls,
and is merely carried on with and through England. From an extra el*
of the cuStom-houfe books for 1/86, procured by Mr. Guillemard, the
exports in that year appear to have amounted to three hundred and
twenty-five thoufand one hundred and Sixteen pounds, Halifax currency,
and the imports to two hundred and forty-three thoufand two hundred
and fixty-two. Since that year not only large quantities of corn have
been exported, but the trade has, upon the whole, been considerably en-,
creafed by the great agricultural improvements made in both provinces,
but eSpecially in Upper Canada.

The whole amount of a common harveSt in Lower Canada is estimated
at four thoufand bufhels, three fourths of which arc confumed in the
country. The principal depot of the peltry-trade is in Montreal.

I fhall at the end of this article fubjoin fome Satisfactory information
refpecting this trade, extracted from a journal, the veracity of which is
unqueftionable.

The navigation of the River St. La-wrence is fbut up by froSt Seven
months of the year.

An iron-work on the Trots Rivieres, and a distillery near Quebec, are
the only manufactories in Canada, and both in a very low State. The
iron- work cannot even Supply Lower Canada with the neceSTary articles ;
it belongs to merchants of Quebec and Montreal, who- make no ufe of
the machinery employed in England in manufactories of that defcription.
The iron- ore is found in the neighbouring rivers, and alfo in grains on
the furface of the foil. It is very rich, and known by the name of

St.

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 317

St. Maurice ore. The work employs about twenty workmen, all of them
Canadians ; they forge the iron into bars, manufacture tools for artifans,
utcnfils, pots, &c. and earn three quarters of a dollar a day, but are not
boarded by the owners of the work.

In the diftillery whifky and geneva are diililled, but very little of either.
The number of workmen is very fmall ; their daily wages confift in two
ihillings in money and board. The Canadians, like the inhabitants of the
back country in the United States, manufacture themfelves all the clothes
they want for their families.

The Roman Catholic religion forms the eftablimed church in Lower
Canada ; the minifters arc iupported by tythcs and gifts, and out of the
cftates acquired by the clergy. All the churches in the country belong
to the Roman Catholic pcrfuafion, and are tolerably well frequented by
the people. The clergy of the Epifcopal church are paid by the king ;
as well as the Proteftant bifhop, who is at the fame time bimop of
Upper Canada. Divine fervicc is performed by Proteftants, in Roman
Catholic churches or chapels, at Quebec, Montreal, and Trois Rivieres.
In the country there is no religious worfhip but according to the rites
of the Roman Catholic religion.

A convent of Urfeiims in Quebec, and another in Montreal, and a fociety
of Charitable Sifters, who attend the hofpitals and lazarettoes, are the
only nunneries of Low r er Canada. The revenue of the hofpitals confifted
in part of annuities, paid by the city of Paris, the payment of which was
{topped in purluance of a decree of the French National Aflembly ; and
this deficiency has not hitherto been made up in any other manner. Two
Francifcans only, and one Jefuit, are remaining of the numerous con-
vents of thefe orders which fubfifted here at the time of the conqueft of
Canada. One of thefe Francifcans, it is affertcd, has, in violation of the
treaty, taken the vow fince that time, and the Jefuit is rather a prieft,
who flyles himfclf a Jefuit, than really a member of that religious com-
munity. By virtue- of a grant of his Britannic Majefty, all the eftates in
Canada, which belong to the Jefuits, go to Lord Amherfl at the deceaie

318 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

of the laft member of that community in the province ; and rumour
fays, that the proceeds of thefe eftates, enjoyed by t\iz foi-difant monk,
which amount to fifteen hundred a year, are the true caufe of the en-
mity which fubfifts between Lord Amherft and Lord Dorchefter.

The feminary in Quebec is kept by a fort of congregation or frater-
nity, known by the name of the Priefts of St. Sulpice, who, prior to the
conqueft, poffefled three fuch houfes, namely, one in Siam, one in Pon-
dicherry, and one in Quebec. Since that time the feminary fupports it-
felf by its own means. The eftates which it poflefles are coniiderable, at
leaft in point of extent, and contain from fifty to fixty thoufand acres ;
yet, as the feminary poflerTes not the right to difpofe either of the whole
or any part of them, and confequently cannot gain any advantage from
thefe eftates but by farming them out to tenants, who pay no more than
about a bulhel and a half of corn for every ninety or a hundred cultivated
acres, the proceeds exceed not in the whole five hundred dollars per
annum. The mill, which the feminary porTefles in the Ifland of Mon-
treal, is let for fomewhat more.

Befides the lectures on theology, which are delivered in the feminary,
Latin is alfo taught, and the fcholars are even inftructed in reading. This
bufmefs is confided to young clergymen, who purfue their ftudies to ob-
tain the order of priefthood, and are excufed from certain exercifes,
without which they would not be qualified to take orders, on account
of their being engaged in the inftruction of youth. This feminary forms
the only refource for Canadian families, who wifh to give their children
any degree of education, and who may certainly obtain it there for ready
money.

Upon the whole the work of education in Lower Canada is greatly
neglected. At Sorrel, and Trots Rivieres, are a few fchools, kept by
nuns, and in ether places men or women inftruct children. But the
number of fchools is, upon the whole, fo very fmall, and the mode of in-
ftruction fo defective, that a Canadian who can read is a fort of pheno-
menon. From the major part of thefe fchools being governed by nuns

and

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 31Q

and other women, the number of the latter, who can read, is, contrary
to the cuftom of other countries, much greater in Canada than that of
men.

The Englifh government is charged with defignedly keeping the peo-
ple of Canada in ignorance ; but were it fmcerely defirous of producing
an advantageous change in this refpect, it would have as great obftacles
to furmount on this head as in regard to agricultural improvements.

The feudal rights continue in the fame force in Canada as previoufly
to the conqueft. The proprietors, or lords of the manor, have alien-
ated or alienate the lands on condition of an annual recognition being
paid by the tenants, which amounts to a bumel or a bumel and half of

gram.

At every change, in refpect to the occupiers of land, except in a cafe
ot a fucceffion in direct lineage, the lord of the manor levies a fee of
two per cent ; and, in cafe of fale, he not only receives a twelfth of the
purchafe-money, but has alfo the right of redeeming the eftate ; he
moreover enjoys the exclufive right of building mills, where all the peo-
ple, who inhabit within the precincts of the manor, are obliged to have,
their corn ground.

The mills are fo few in number, that frequently they are thirty-fix
miles diftant from the farms. The miller's dues amount to a fourteenth,
according to law ; but the millers are as clever in Lower Canada as elfe-
where, and contrive to raife them to a tenth. The bolting is performed
by the farmers in their own houfes. The mills are numerous in the vici-
nity of Quebec and Montreal, and belong to the feminary.

On lordlhips of the manor being fold, a fifth of the purchafe-money
goes to the crown ; all thefe fees and Charges, it will be eafily conceived,
greatly impede the fale of eflates.

The adminiftration of juflice is exactly the fame as in Upper Canada.
In this refpect Lower Canada is divided into three difhicts. The penal
and commercial laws are the fame as in England ; but the civil law con-
fiils of the cuftoms of Paris, modified by the conflitutional act of Canada,
and by fubfequent acts of the legiflative power. Nineteen twentieths of

all

320 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

all property, amenable before the courts of juftice, belong to merchants.
Criminal offences are very feldom committed in Canada.

The five thoufand pounds, which laft year were voted for the expencc
of the legiflature, &c. are raifed by means of an excife on liquors.

The climate in Lower Canada is rather dry, and very cold in winter ;
the iky is, at all times, beautifully clear and ferenc. In the months of
J anuary and February RE A UMUR'S thermometer ftands generally at twenty
degrees below the freezing point. In 1/QO it fell quite below the fcale,
and the quickfilver retreated into the ball. In fummer fome days
are exceffively hot, and the thermometer Hands at twenty-four degrees ;
this year it mounted to twenty- eight. The heat in fummer, it has been
obferved, becomes more intenfe and continues longer, and in winter the
cold grows more moderate than formerly. The climate is healthy ;
epidemical difeafes are very rare ; but, on account of the fevere cold,
cancerous fores in the face and hands are very frequent. The declination
of the magnetic needle at Quebec is twelve degrees to the weft.

There exifts no incorporated municipality either at Montreal or Que-
bec. The police of thefe towns is managed by jufticcs of the peace,
who fix the price of provifion, and direct every public meafure relative to
this fubject. They alfo meet once a week for the adminiftration of
juftice, and decide on petty offences.

As to charitable inftitutions, they confift in two hofpitals, one at
Montreal, the other at Quebec, and a lazaretto at the latter place. They
are inconfiderable and badly managed, efpecially in regard to the abilities
of the phyficians who attend the fick.

Throughout all Canada there is no public library, except in Quebec,
and this is fmall and confifts moftly of French books. From the political
fentiments of the truftees and directors of this library, it is a matter of
aftonimment, to find here the works of the French National AfTembly;
It is fupported by voluntary contribution.

No literary fociety exifts in Canada, and not three men are known in
the whole country to be engaged in fcientific purfuits from love of the
fciences. Excepting the Quebec almanack, not a fingle book is printed

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 321

in Canada. Meteorological obfervations are made with peculiar care,
but only for his own amufement, by Doctor KNOTT, phyfician to the
army, and a man of extenfive knowledge.

Provifion is much cheaper in Lower Canada than in the United
States ; the price of beef is three or four fous a pound, mutton fix, veal
five, and fait pork from eight to twelve (bus. A turkey cofts from eigh-
teen pence to two millings, a fowl from fix to eight fous, wheat from iix
to feveii lliillings a bufhel, oats three, Indian corn from five to feven,
fait one dollar a bufhel, bread two fous a pound, and butter eight
fous [money of Canada, reckoning the dollar at five millings.] Day-
labourers generally earn in fummer two fhillings and fix-pence a day,
women half that money ; in winter the w r ages of the former are one
milling and three-pence a day, and the latter are paid in the fame pro-
portion as above. A man-fervant gets about five dollars a month. The
rent for a good convenient houfe amouilts in Quebec to one hundred
and thirty dollars, and in Montreal to one hundred and fifty. The
price of land has already been flated.

The markets, both at Montreal and Quebec, are but moderately fup-
plied in comparifon with the abundance in the markets of the large towns
in the United States.

Mr. Guillemard in his journal afligns to the Canadians the fame cha-
racter, which 1 have above delineated. The firft clafs, compofed of pro-
prietors, and people attached to the Britifh government, deteft the
French Revolution in every point of view, and feem in this rcfpecl: even
to outdo the Englifh miniftry. The fecond clafs of Canadians, who
form a fort of oppofition againft the proprietors and gentry, applaud the
principles of the French Revolution, but abhor the crimes which it has
occafioned, without their attachment to France being in the leaft im-
paired by thefe atrocities. The third, or laft, clafs love France and the
French nation, without a thought of the French Revolution, of which
they fcarcely know any thing at all.

Lord Dorcheiler bears the character of a worthy man, pofleflcd of all
the vanity of a darling of fortune. His Lady, who is much younger than

T t her

322 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

her hufband, and determined not to facrifice any of the enjoyments
which pride can afford, takes peculiar care to keep alive the vanity of
her Lord. ****************
****************** * *
********************

The fettlements form, as already mentioned, a large flripe of about
feven or eight miles in breadth on both banks of the river. The whole
unfettled country appertains to the Crown, which is ever ready to make
any grants that may be demanded ; but the formalities, and referva-
tions connected with them, deter many people from making applications
for land. All the new fettlers come from New England.

On both fides of the road which leads from St. John's to Quebec,
near Lake St. Peter, and in the vicinity of the towns of Montreal and
Quebec, are fome Indian villages. One of them is Loretto, five miles
from the latter place. The Indians of Loretto have attained, it is aflerted,
the laft ftage of civilization, at leaft in point of the corruptnefs of morals
and manners. No other Indian village can, in this refpect, rival Loretto*.

Thefe Indians, who on working-days drefs like the Canadians, wear
on feafts and fundays their ufual drefs. They cultivate their fields in the
fame manner as the w T hites, live like them, and fpeak the fame language ;
they are of the Roman Catholic perfuafion, and a curate refides in the
village.

The fettlements, which carry a more Indian appearance than this vil-
lage, are farther diftant, and not numerous. On defccnding the River St.
Lawrence, you meet with a more flaty foil, and in the vicinity of Thoufand
Iflands with a range of rocks of granite. Thefe ifles apparently confrft of
granite of a reddifh colour, well cryftallized, and the chief component part
of which is feldtfpar. In Kadanoghqui, between Kingfton and Thoufand
Iflands, a fpecies of fteatite is found, confiderable veins of which are faid

* Loretto, a fmall village of Chriftian Indians of the Huron Tribe, north-weft of
Quebec, has its name from a chapel built after the model of the Santa Cafa at Loretto
in Italy, whence an image of the Holy Virgin has been fent to the converts here, re-
icmbling that in the famous Italian fantuary. TranJJ.

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 323

to be difcovered in the neighbourhood. The reddifh granite of Thoufand
Iflands is interfperfed with more perfect granite of a larger grain, which is
very common in countries confiding of this fort of ftone, fuch as the
Alps, the Scotch Highlands, and others of lefs moment, but of the fame
defcription.

The rapidity, with which Mr. Guillemard defcended the River St.
Lawrence, prevented him from examining the fpecies of ftone of which
its banks are formed. But at Montreal he had fufficient leifure to en-
quire into the mineralogy of the country. It confifts, north of the
River St. Lawrence, chiefly of lime-ftone ; in the fouth, where the lit-
tle populous village La Prairie is fituated, you find, befides a fort of
chert, nothing very remarkable on this head.

The Ifland St. Helena, a little below Montreal, confifts of this {tone.
On the banks of the river large mafles of granite, quartz, and pud-
ding-ftone, are found, which feem disjoined from the beds to which
they formerly belonged, and which cannot now be difcovered. The
foil on the mountains is rich and fertile, and full of quarries of lime-
ftone. Mines of pit-coal are faid to have been difcovered in thefe
mountains.

The houfes in Montreal are moftly built of lime-ftone of a dark colour
and very compact ftru<5ture. It whitens in the fire, and aflumes a greyilh
colour, when expofed to the air and fun.

The river Sorrel, after having left the bafon by Chamblee, flows along
the foot of a broad and high range of mountains, called Beloeil. Between
this river and the river St. Lawrence expands a vaft plain, on which nei-
ther a rock nor ftone is to be found. On digging up the ground you find
to a confidcrable depth ftrata of different forts of earth, fand, clay, ve-
getable earth, and in many places another kind of black vegetative earth,
which bears a clofe refemblance to peat.

The fummit of the mountain Beleoil confifts of granite of a dark grey
colour and a ftrong grain. It contains little mica, but much fchocrl. The
declivity on both fides of the fummit confifts of flate of a very compact
texture ; fome pieces refemble bafalt in lhape and grain.

Tt 2 On

324 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

On defcending the Sorrel, you fee not a fmgle rock, and the banks of
this river, which the Englifh at prefent call William Henry, confift of
a fine micaceous loam.

If you crofs St. Peter's lake on your way to the Trois Rivieres, the
ground rifes in a ftriking manner in the form of terraces ; but no rocks
meet your view. The fandy banks of the Trois Rivieres befpeak a poor
foil, exhaufted by cultivation, and deprived of the vegetable earth. Marl
of a blueifh colour has fortunately been difcovered under the fand, which
has much contributed to reftore the fertility of the ground. This marl
is of a fine grain, very compact and light ; it lies above the level of the
ftream below the town of Trois Rivieres.

A few miles thence, farther on in the country, are the only iron
works in Canada ; the ore is found in feveral places in the neighbourhood.
It is bog-ore, and faid to yield very good iron.

Lime-ftone is found as far as Quebec ; its farther extent is not known.
It is of various forms and qualities ; in fome places very hard and com-
pact ; in others in the flate of calcareous fpar. The colour paffes, by im-
perfect (hades, from a reddim light brcrsvn to a dark blue, approaching to
black.

South of the river St. Lawrence, near the bafon-falls, lime {tone is flill
found ; but the ground confrfts chiefly of {Irata of a black, clayey Hate, of
a fine grain, interfperfed with beds of lime-ftone. The conglomerations,
which form the banks of the river, are of the fame nature as the adjoin-
ing ftrata, intermixed with different forts of fchoerl and granite, which
muft have been warned to this fpot from more elevated parts of the
country.

The rock, on which {lands the citadel of Quebec, is called the Dia-
mond-rock, on account of feveral of its fnTures and cavities containing
fpars, which by ignorant people are efteemed precious {lones. This rock
confifts chiefly of ftrata of lime-ftone, which is in general very compact,
and of a dark grey colour.

Over the plain lying farther up the country, called Abram's-plain,
lime-ftone and large mafles of granite are fcattered, which are peculiarly

remarkable

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 325

remarkable on account of the great quantity of fchoerl they contain.
Near the river you find various forts of pebbles, free-ftone, granite,
quartz, with fome Hate and lime-ftone.

In Wolfslove the ftrata of ftone confift of a black flate, forming an
obtufe angle with the horizon. In the vicinity of Quebec moil of thefe
layers have a more perpendicular direction towards the furface of the
earth, than in more weftern countries. The high mountains north-eaft
of Quebec are faid to coniift of granite. Mr. Guillemard has not feen
them ; near the falls of Montmorency and fomewhat farther up, the
ilrata confift of lime-ftone, and their direction runs nearly parallel with
the horizon.

Accounts of the Fur-trade, extracted from the journal of Count
of Milan, who travelled in the interior parts of America in the year 17Q1-

The moil important places for the fur-trade are the following, viz.

Niagara, Lake Ontario, Detroit, Lake Erie, Michillimakkinak, Lake

Huron, yielding 1200 bundles mixed peltry.

Michipicoton 40 bundles fine peltry.

Pic 30 ditto.

Alampicon - 24 ditto,

Near the great carrying-place or portage 140O ditto.

Bottom of the lake - 2O ditto.

Point of the lake 2O ditto.

Bay of Guivaranun - 15 ditto.

The fkins of beavers, otters, martens, and wild cats, are called fine
peltry.

Mixed peltry are furs, confiiling of a mixture of the finer forts with a
larger number of fkins of wolves, foxes, buffaloes, deers, bears.

The fineft peltry is collected north- weft of the lakes in the Britiih do-
minions ; the furs grow coarfer in proportion as you approach nearer to
the lakes.

The

TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

This fur- trade is carried on by a company, known by the name of the
North-ivcft Company, and two or three other fmall companies.

The north- weft company, which is generally efteemed a privileged
company, has no charter ; for the preponderance, which it enjoys in this
trade, it is merely indebted to the large capital, which it employs in the
trade, to the unanimity of the members, to their unwearied exertion, and
to the monopoly, which the company has appropriated to itfelf in confe-
quence of the above "circumftances.

Its formation took place in the year 1782, and originated from the
commercial operations of fome eminent merchants, who ufed to carry on
the trade in the country, fituated beyond Lake Winnipey, and efpecially
of Meffrs. FORBISHER and MACTARISH, who refide at Montreal. The
fignal fuccefs, which this company met with, foon excited the jealouly
of other merchants, and ere long three different companies made their
appearance at the great carrying-place, and rivalled each other in the pur-
chafe of furs with a degree of emulation, which could not but prove highly
detrimental to themfelves and advantageous to the Indians. The north -
\veft company, being more opulent than the reft, made ufe of its wealth
to ruin its competitors ; no ftone was left unturned ; the agents of the
company's rivals were bribed and feduced ; and the animofity between
the different traders rofe to fuch a height, that they frequently proceeded
to blows. This petty warfare, which coft feveral lives and large fums of
money, at length opened the eyes of the rival companies. They became
fenfible of the ncceflity of uniting in one body, and the north- weft com-
pany, effentially interefted in preventing any further moleftation of this
trade, made feveral facrifices, to attain this end. They formed a connec-
tion with different members of the other companies, admitted other mer-
chants to a fliare in their trade, and thus fecured their extenfive com-
merce with the country fituated north-weft of the lakes, the only fpot
where fine peltry can be had in abundance.

Several thoufands of Indians formerly conveyed their furs to the
great carrying-place. But at prefent the company fend their agents a
thoufand miles into the interior parts of the Indian poiTefnons. It fre-
quently

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 327

quently happens, that thefe agents continue there two years, before
they return with the peltry, they have purchafed, to the great carrying-
place.

The company employ about two thoufand men in carrying on this
traffic in the interior of the Indian country, which is, however, fo ex-
tremely barren, that whatever articles thefe agents ftand in need of either
for their cloathing or fubfiftence, muft be fent thither from Montreal
with confiderable difficulties and trouble, and, of confequence, at an ex-
ceffive price.

Near the great carrying-place, where all thefe agents meet, and which
is the central point of this trade, ftands a fort, which is kept in good re-
pair, and garrifoned with fifty men.

The poft of Michillimakkinak is the rallying-point of the different Ca-
nadian merchants, who do not belong to the north-weft company. Their
agents traffic only with fuch parts, as are feated weft and fouth-weft of
the lakes, and where the furs are of an inferior quality. They carry on
this trade in the fame manner as the north-weft company, but as thefe
fmall companies are lefs opulent than the former, their agents penetrate
not fo far into the interior of the country, as thofe of the north-weft
company.

The agents fet out from Montreal in the month of June, and are fix
weeks going to the fort near the great carrying-place. They embark at
Montreal in boats, forming parties of eight or ten pcrfons, proceed on
the river St. Lawrence from China to the Lake of the Two Mountains ;
defcend the river Utacoha ; crofs Lake Nipiffing ; pafs by the French
River into Lake Huron ; proceed to Fort Michillimakkinak ; and thence
to the great carrying-place.

This way is fhorter by a hundred miles than that by the lakes, but you
meet with thirty-fix carrying places, feveral of which lie acrofs rocks, over
which the boats as well as the cargoes muft be carried on the backs of the
pafTengers, and that with great precaution, on account of the narrownefs
of the roads. The boats are but of four tons burthen ; they are navi-
gated,

328 TRAVELS IX NORTH AMERICA,

gated by nine men, coft twenty-eight Louisd'or each, and fervc but
for one voyage.

The mips, employed in the paflage acrofs the lakes, are from one hun-
dred and twenty to one hundred and thirty tons burthen. Flat-bot-
tomed veilels of fifteen tons are alfo made ufe of for this purpofe, which
are eafily managed by four or five men, and are very durable.

Notwithftanding the advantages, offered by this palTage, the former
route is preferred for the fur-trade, becaufe, although it is attended with
much trouble, yet it admits of the day of the departure as well as of the
arrival being fixed with certainty and exa6hiefs, which point, on account
of the wind, cannot be attained on palling over the lakes, and yet is of
the utmoft importance for the Canada merchants, as they muft neither
miis the period of receiving the furs from the interior of the Indian terri-
tory, nor that of expediting them for Europe ; the navigation of the river
St. Lawrence not being open for a long time.

About the end of June the agents of the company, fent into the in-
terior to trade with the Indians, caufe the articles purchafed to be tranf-
ported to their place of rendezvous.

At this time upwards of one thoufand men are frequently aflembled in
Michillimakkinak, who either arrive from Canada to receive the peltry,
or are agents of the company and Indians, who ciffifl the former in con-
veying thither the furs, they have bought.

As the trade of the north- weft company is far more important, than
that of the other traders, the number of people, afTembled in the fort
near the great carrying-place is of confequence far more confiderable at
the time -of the delivery of the fkins; in this place there is frequently a
concourfe of one thoufand people and upwards.

The method, obferved by the agents in their traffic with the Indians,
is this, that they begin with intoxicating them with rum, to over-reach
them with more facility in the intended bufmefs. The agents carry on
this traffic in thofe villages only, where there arc no other merchants.

It is a circumftance, worthy of notice, that an ancient French law,

cnacled

BY THE DUKE DE LA UOCtfEFOUCAtt,!' LlASCOUHtf.

enacted at the time, when Canada belonged to Franci, prohibits any rum
to be fold to the Indians by the agents on pain of the galleys. Hence
originates the cuftom, ftill obfervcd at this day, of giving it away ; yet
this is not done without exception, for many agents fell their rum.

The one thoufand four hundred bundles of fine peltry, from the great
carrying-place, which according to the price, paid to the petty traders in
Montreal, who collect them in fmall numbers, are valued at forty pounds
fterling each, and which by the company are fent to London> fetch there
eighty-eight thoufand pounds fterling. They form about a moiety of all
the fine peltry, yearly exported from Canada, without taking into the ac-
count the furs fent from Labrador, from the bay of Chaleurs and Gafpe
or Gachepe.

For thefe one thoufand four hundred bundles the north-weft com*
pany pay about fixteeen thoufand pounds fterling, and for the proceeds
thereof fuch articles are purchafed in England, as the Indians are fond of
receiving in exchange for their peltry, and the chief ftore-houfe of which
is at Montreal. As the accounts relative to this trade are generally kept
in Canada in French money, the above fixtecn thoufand pounds fterling
muft be computed in the fame manner, as this actually has been done
by Count Andriani in his journal.

1. Commodities purchafed in England - - liv. 354,000

2. Pay for forty guides, interpreters, and conductors of the

expedition * 88,OOO

3. Pay for one thoufand one hundred men, who are employed

in the traffic in the interior of the country, and who pafs
4.he winter there, without returning to Montreal ; one
thoufand eight hundred livres for each 1,Q80,OOQ

4. Pay for one thoufand four hundred men, employed in de-

fcending the river with the boats from the great portage

Carried forwards, Iru. 2,422, ooo

* F.vcrv boat's company, confining of eight or ten perfons, has a guide; there is alfo
a chief guide in every harbour", where they winter; They are all inhabitants of Canada,
*n<i receive each two thoufand five hundred livres. Author.

330 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

Brought forwards, Ih. 2,422,000
to Montreal, and afcending it from this place thither,
and tranfporting the merchandize 350,000

5. Price of the provifion, confumed on the paffage from Mon-
treal to the great carrying-place, and at the latter place,
upon an average per year - 4,000

Total amount of all the expencc, incurred by the company for

one thoufand four hundred bundles fine peltry - Ih. 2,7/6,000

On comparing the eighty-eight thoufand pounds fterling, which the
faie of thefe furs produces in London, with thefe two millions {even hun-
dred and feventy-iix thoufand livres, it mould feem, that the company
fuftains a lofs of fix hundred thoufand livres Tournois. But this lofs is
merely apparent, as will be obvious from the following ftatement.

The pay of the men, employed in the trade, as mentioned in the above
account, is merely nominal ; for excepting the forty guides and one
thoufand four hundred men, who are employed in afcending and de-
fcending the river with the boats, who receive half their wasces in cam.

O ' O '

all the reft are paid entirely in merchandize, which at the great carrying-
place yields a profit of fifty per cent.

The merchandize, imported on behalf of this trade to the above
amount of three hundred and fifty-four thoufand livres, eonfifts of
woollen blankets, coarfe cloths, thread and worfted ribbands of different
colours, vermilion, porcelain bracelets, filver trinkets, firelocks, mot, gun-
powder and efpecially rum. In fort Detroit thefe articles are fold for
three times their ufual value in Montreal, in Fort Michillimakkinak four
times dearer, at the great carrying-place eight times, at Lake Winnipeg
fixteen times ; nay the agents fix the price ftill higher at their will and
pleafurc.

As the men, employed in this trade, are paid in merchandize, which
the company fells with an enormous profit, it is obvious at how cheap a
rate thefe people are paid. They purchafe of the company every ar-
ticle, they want ; it keeps with them an open account, and as they all

winter

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAtTLT UANCOUHT. 33]

winter in the interior of the country and beyond lake Winnipeg, they
pay, of confequence, executively dear for the blankets, and the clothes,
which they bring with them for their wives. Thefe menial fervants of
the company are in general extravagant, giren to drinking and exccfs ;
and thefe are exactly the people whom the company wants. The fpecu-
lation on the excefles of thefe people is carried fo far, that if one of them
happen to lead a regular, fober life, he is burthencd with the moft la-
borious w r ork, until by continual ill-treatment he is driven to drunken-
nefs and debauchery, which vices caufe the rum, blaakets and trinkets to
be fold to greater advantage. In 17Q1> nine hundred of thefe menial
fervants owed the company more than the amount of ten or fifteen years
pay.

This is in a few words the fyftem of the company, at the head of
which are Meflrs. Forbilher and Maclarim, who potfefs twenty-four ihares
of the forty-fix, of which the company conlifts. The reft, divided into
fmaller portions, are diftributed among other merchants in Montreal,
who either tranfacl bufmefs with the company, or otherwife do not con-
cern themfelves in their affairs.

The north-weft company is to fubfift fix years : at the expiration of
which time the dividends are to be paid to the fhare- holders ; until that
time they remain with the capital.

Total amount of the "Fur-tradt,

The whole amount of the peltry, which the north-weft com-
pany receives from the great carrying-place and exports
from Canada, is eftimatcd at - . 88,000

From the Bay of Chaleurs, Gafpe, and Labrador Co,000

From different places in the interior, with which the trade is
carried on by a certain number of merchants, who have af-
fociated inMichillimakkinak - 60,000

Total, . 208,000

Tffeat

332 , TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

That branch of this extenfive trade, which is carried on by fmall com-
panies in iuch 'parts, as are iituated below the lakes, is likely foon to fall
into the hands of merchants in the United States, as the free navigation
of the Mimmppi, ftipulated in the treaty with Spain, opens a more expe-
ditious, a fafer and lefs expenfive outlet for thefe commodities, and a more
eafy importation by New Orleans to all the marts of the United States.

Amount of the Merchandize, exported from the Province of Canada m the

Year 1786.

Rye, 103,824 bufhels, valued at - jT. 2 0,7 04 o O

Flour, 10,476 bufhels - 12,571 o o

Bifcuit,,, 9,317 hundred- weight (3,050 o

Flax-feed,- 10,171 bufhels 2,034 4 - O-

Oats > 4,015 bufhels - 51

Peafe, 304 buAels 02 10

Timber 700 o 0.

Mafts, flaves, planks, mingles - 3,202 o O

Potafhes - - 1,724 O

Maiden hair (adianthum capillus veneris, Linn.) 180 o o

Horfes, fixty-fevea 070 O

Caft iron 1,20O o O

Spruce-eifence for beer 211 o o

Shook calks - 5 1 o

Banala, 1Q84 hundred- weight - 1,289 8 O

Salmon . 759 o o

Potatoes - - - - 55 &

Smoaked falmon - 08 15

Onions 300 O

Pork 3;0 o O

Beef 210 o o

Train oil - - 3,700 o o

Carried forward, . 57,237 9 o

BY THE DUKE DE LA IIOCHEPOUCAULT IIANCOURT . 333

Brought forward, . 57,237 9 o
Salt fifh and peltry from Labrador, from the Bay of
Chaleurs and Gafpe, according to the lift tranimittcd
by Governor Coxe - - 00,000 O 6

Amount of the peltry which comes from the great lakes,
from the fa clones of the north- weft company, and other
places, according to the under-mentioned detail - 225,9/7 O

Sum total, .343,214 9

being the amount entered in the cuftom-houfe books of Canada.

A detailed Account of the different forts of Peltry, exported from Canada m

the Year 1786.

6,2 1 3 foxes fkins
1 16, 62 3 beavers
23,684 otters
5,959 minks
3,958 weafels
17,713 bears

1,659 young bears
126,079 deer fkins in the hair
202,719 caftors
10,854 racoon
2,277 wild cat-fkins, loofe
3,702 ditto in bundles
7,555 elk
12,923 wolves
5 06 whelps
64 tygers
15,007 feal-fkins
480 fquirrel

Although a variety of circumftances, incident to the chace, occa-
fioned by the weather, or originating in the fciitirnents of the Indian? *

cannot

TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

cannot but produce variations in regard to the quantities of peltry yearly
received, yet the refults of the years 1/87, 1788, 1789, 1790 and 1791,
nearly correfpond with thofe of 1786 ; a circumftancc, which as it hap-
pens in regard to a trade, that extends from Labrador to a diftance of
three or four hundred miles from Lake Superior, is very remarkable.

Account of the Merchandize, imported into Canada in the f aid Year 1786.,
extracted from the Cnftom-houfe Books.

Rum - . 63,032

Brandy - - 225

MolafTes 21,380

Coffee 2,065

Sugar 5,269

Spanifh wine - 31,288

Tobacco 1,316

Salt 2,912

Chocolate - - - 129

Sum total, . 127,616

An exact: account of the value of piece-goods has not yet been made
out in a regular manner ; but in purfuance of an order of Lord Dor-
chefter, the furri total of the value of all imports was by the merchants,
upon a four years average, determined in the following manner, viz.

Amount of the above fum - - - . 127,616 o

Merchandize for Quebec -, 99,70O o

Ditto for Montreal - - - - 97,80000

Amount total of Imports . 325,116 o o
Exports 343,214 Q

Balance in favour of Canada JT. 18,098 9 a

To the above imports is to be added the value of fix thousand feven
hundred and nine barrels of fait pork, and of one thoufand feven hun-
dred

BY THE DUKIi DE LA HOCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 335

dred and fifty-four firkins of butter, of about fifty or fixty pounds each,
for the ufe of the military.

The imports in the following years 1787, 1788, 1789, 1790 and 1791,
were nearly of the fame value, with a difference of about five or fix
thoufand pounds fterling more or lefs.

At the clofe of this fliort account of the trade of Canada I mall here
repeat once more, that it is a faithful extract of the journal of Count
Andriani, of which a friend of his, to whom he had communicated it,
permitted me to make ufe. The abilities and character of Count An-
driani, as well as the facility, with which he was able to make his re-
fearches purfuant to the direction of the Britifh government, infpire great
confidence in the exaclnefs of the information, which he has collected.
I have not been able myfelf to fubftantiate the veracity of his accounts ;
and befides it is eafily understood, that fincc the time, when he wrote,
fome alterations may have taken place, in point both of the quality and
the value of the exports and imports.

JOURNEY

336 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

JOURNEY FROM UPPER CANADA TO BOSTON!

DEPARTURE FROM OSWEGO.

S T Sunday, the 2()th of July, the day after our arrival at Olwcgo,
we learned from the officers, that during the harveft the Ameri-
can mips fail lefs frequently, than at other times, and that probably we
mould have to wait for one fcveral days. We underftood at the fame
time, that the beft plan we could adopt was, to walk twelve miles farther
on, in the hope that the fettlers, who live there, would accommodate
us with a veffel. Being both impatient to quit the Englifli dominions,
and afraid to incur too great an expence by hiring a whole lliip for our-
felves, we were walking, in fome degree of perplexity, on the baflion
along the more, when we difcovered a veffel approaching. The foldiers,
who have learned hatred and contempt of the Americans along with the
manual exercife, perceiving the attention, with which we obferved her
approach, faid to us, " Why, gentlemen, that is nothing ; me is but a
veffel of the d d Yankees ;" and it was exactly a veffel of the Yan-
kees, we wifhed to obtain. Mr. VANALLEN, an American, who refides
in the vicinity of Albany, commanded the veffel ; he came on more
fhortly after, to procure fome frefh provifion, of which he ftood in need
to cure himfelf of an intermittent fever, that he had caught in the woods.
From want of an inn, he had no opportunity of buying any at the fort ;
the officers might have cafily fupplied him with fome vegetables ; but in
the opinion of a Britifh officer, it is neither neceffary nor decent to fuc-
cour a Yankee.

Mr. Vanallen, although thus difappointed in his hope of finding in
Ofwego the neceffary fuccour for his recovery, yet promifed us two places

BY Tlih DUKE DE LA HOCHKFOUCAULT LIANCOUKT. 337

in his veflcl. He could not however fet fail for Albany fooner than the
next day, or perhaps in two or three days/ after having been joined by
three other vcffcls, which he expected, and in queft of which he returned
to a certain point on the lake. We were thus furnilhed with a certain
opportunity of quitting Ofwego, and the eagernefs, with which we em-
braced it, could not but convince our guefts of our earneft deflre of
making all poffible hafte. The certainty of our fpeedy departure infpired
us with patience. The Englifh officers, who entertained more liberal
fentiments towards us, than to the Yankees, peremptorily iniifted on fup-
plying us with provifion ; and this they did with a generofity, which
perfectly anfwered the kind reception, we in general experienced on their
part.

Two whole days had in the mean while elapfed, and the third began
to prefs heavy upon us, when, being alone in the fort, while Dupetit-
thouars and the Englifh officers had gone on a hunting and filhing party,
I at laft defcried two veiTels with my telefcope, which was conftantly
pointed to the coaft, whence I expected my deliverance ; my efFedls
were foon packed up and my ftores collected. Whether thefe vefTels be-
longed to Mr. Vanallen or any other perfon, w r e were determined to leize
upon the firft opportunity of departing from Ofwego. It was Mr. Van-
alien ; he had been joined but by one of the veflels, and had refblved
not to wait for the reft : yet as it was already noon, as his veflels were
heavy laden, and the rapids two miles from Ofwego, which he was
obliged to pafs, would have detained him too long to make much way
the remainder of the day, he propofed to us, to follow him on foot, at
four o'clock the next morning. We thought it better, to {hare his tent
with him that very evening, and the certainty of quitting Ofwego in
the afternoon made us far more happy, than all the attention of the
Britim officers, on which we can hardly beftow fufficient praife, had
been able to do. They carried their politenefs fo far, as to attend us to
our night quarters, and on taking leave, gave us fuch proofs of friendfhip
and attachment, as we cannot but acknowledge with unfeigned .gra-
titude.

X x The

$38 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

The mufquitoes, which teafed us fadty, were not able to make us re-
pent our refolution of joining Mr. Vanallen that very evening ; and al-
though we did not lie down to reft the whole night, yet we heartily re-
joiced in being no longer fubjec^ed to the iccptrc of his Excellency the
Governor-general of the two Qanadas.

JOURNEY FROM OSWEGO TO THE FALLS.

We fet out at break of day, and yet were not able to advance more
than ten miles, the whole day. The navigation of the river Ofwego is
extremely troiiblefome, as there is but very feldom fufricient water, even
for pufhing the veflel along. Each of our veflels, it is true, carried about
one ton and a half, but each was worked too by three men. Befides
Dupetitthouars affifted the men in our veflel with the utmoft zeal ; he
puihed as much as they did, and paffed like them three-fourths of the
day in the water, to lift the veflel, that me might more eafily clear the
rocks and large ftones, with which the river is filled, and which me
would not have been able to pafs over in any other manner. In five or
fix places the ftrength of a fingle fhip's company was not fufficient to
keep the veflel afloat, but the men of both veflels were obliged to join
for that purpofe. Ships lefs deeply laden, than ours, are laid to proceed
with more facility, efpecially in defcending the river, when the current
affords fome affiftance. In autumn and ipring the encreafed mafs of
water is alfo faid to remove the impediments, which at prefent obftrucl:
and retard the navigation. It may be fo ; yet a navigation, which is prac-
ticable only for two months in the year and in defcending the river, and
at the fame time affords at prefent the only known outlet for the ex-
portation of all the productions, and the fole inlet for all the provifion,
which is imported from the other fide of the lake, cannot in any re-
fpecl: be compared with that of the river St. Lawrence, however im-
perfect it may be. The State of New York, to whofe territory this river-
navigation belongs, and for which it is of much greater importance, than
for any other ftate, will no doubt make -all pomble exertion to facili-
tate

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 330

tatc it. A project of this nature is, I underftand, already under con-
templation, but how far will it be pomble to execute this important
enterprife ? This is a queftion, which cannot be decided, but after a
long and mature confideration of all the obftacles, which it will be nc-
cerTary to furmount. To have ftarted it, is fufficient for being aware of
the great impediments, by which it is obftructed.

During this whole day's journey nothing remarkable came within our
view. There is no fettlcment between Ofwego and the Falls. You pafs
by an ifland, w r hich has taken the name of Brcfwit from a French officer,
who in the feven years war obtained here an advantage over a combined
corps of Englifh troops and Indians. The iilaiid is throughout covered
with wood, and fo is the whole country, through which we have hitherto
paffed. Two miles from the falls {lands a houfe, which appertains to
Mr. VAN VERBERO, a Dutchman, who is charged in the country with
giving information to the garriibn of the frnugglers who intend to run
any commodities into the province in the night, and with being an Eng-
lifh. fpy in regard to deferters. This charge, which, by what we learned
in the fort, feems to be founded, is fo generally credited, that laft year,
in confequence of the rumour of an impending war between America and
England, he was obliged to take refuge in the fort again!! the revengeful
projects of his neighbours.

At the place, where the navigation is intercepted, we halted at WIL-
LIAM SHORTEN'S. He keeps an inn, that is, he admits into one room of
his houfe all the travellers, who defire to fleep there, and accommodates
them with fait pork and rum ; which is the moll; he is able to do. We
arrived there, at nine o'clock in the evening, wet to the fkin ; for fuch of
us, as had not been drenched by pufhing and drawing the Ihip along,
were foaked by the conftant rain. We dried ourfelves at a good fire ;
and a few fliccs of ham, we had brought with us, reftorcd our ftrcngth.
Dupetitthouars mured with me a very indifferent bed, which however
we found extremely comfortable. From excelfive fatigue I conquered
the extreme averfion, which I always feel when 1 am obliged to fleep in

X x 2 the

340 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

.the fame bed with another perfon, and became infenfible of the incoiv-
venience of fleeping in fo narrow a room among fo many people and
with fo great a noife.

OSWEGO FALLS AND PENIERS.

The portage, occafioned by the falls of the river Ofwego, is about a
mile in length. W. Shorten, at whole houfe we Hopped, kept only a
yoke of oxen, and our two veffels were heavy laden. Each veflel was to
be conveyed feparately, and the cargo required four turns of the carriage.
The Americans not being anywife remarkable for fpeed and agility,
it was not until five o'clock in the evening, that our veflels had reached
the place, where the navigation recommences, and where they were
again to be loaded. Here a quarrel arofe between our commander Van-
alien, and the two mates, who were in his fervice, but quite intoxicated.
They ufed him very ill ; he fwore at them, and they returned the com-
pliment by calling him all the ill names, which their well-ftored memory
would fupply. This quarrel was fcarcely half accommodated, when
another man arrived from the neighbourhood, demanding from Mr.
Vanallen fome money, which, he faid, was due to his fon, who for fome
time had ferved on board his veflel. This difference, however, was foon
fettled on friendly terms ; Vanallen conducted us into night-quarters at
his adverfary's, and facrificed to this reconciliation fome miles, which we
mould have been able to make the fame evening.

This time we had not even a bed. Our party, our fkippers, landlord,
wife, fons and daughters flept all pell-mell in a room, which was about
twelve feet fquare. And unfortunately we were not fufficiently fatigued,
having travelled but one mile on foot and one mite and a half by water,
to find the floor foft, and to be infenfible to tke llings of the mufquitoes
and the bites of fleas.

Mr. Vanallen, in whofe veffels we took our paiTage, is member of the
Congrefs for the county of Albany in the ftate of New York. He is alfo
a geometer and furveyor. His age, and, no doubt, his talents, feem to

have

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 341

have procured him the confidence of his country. He is charged with
the commiflion of furveying upwards of half a million of acres, fituated
on Lake Ontario and the river St. Lawrence, nearly oppofite to Canton
Ifland, which belong to Meflrs. CHASSANG, REY, DE CHAUMONT,
COXE and Company. He began 1 aft year to execute this commiflion;
but was much impeded in the progrefs of this bufmefs by the ficknefs of
moft of the amilant furveyors, employed under him, and was further
prevented from completing it by the confiderable declination of the mag-
netic needle in the vicinity of fome rocks. He was himfelf feized with a
fit of the ague, with which the whole country is infefted, and which is
caught by wandering through the foreils, as well as by inhabiting the
banks of rivers. Mr. Vanallen is juftice of the peace, and for this reafoii
fty led 'Squire by his people, if he do not fwear at them. He is about
fixty years old, is faid to poflefs a tolerable mare of information, and
feems in facl to be a worthy and intelligent man.

All the fettlements in this part of the country are in an infant ftate.
W. Shorten, at whofe houfe we flopped the firft night, fettled here as
late as laft fpring. He bought his eftate three years ago for three pence
an acre, and can now fell it for twelve millings. He pofTeffes three hun-
dred acres, ten of which are fcarcely cleared, and thefe are fituated on the
right bank of the river. That which lies on the left is Soldiers' land, as
it is called, that is, it has, fince the peace, been diftributed among fol-
diers by the ftate of New York. PENIERS, at whofe houfe we remained
the fecond day, bought two years ago a mare of this land from a foldier,
to whom it had been given, for three fhillings an acre.

The Ofwego fall is about ten feet high ; and the river nearly one
eight of a mile in width. The profpecl is not without charms. A break
of the bed of rocks, from which the river precipitates itfelf, and the hr-i
regularity of the form, produce a tolerably ftr iking, but not a grand efredt.
On the right bank, near the water-fall, are found the traces of an an-
cient French entrenchment, and hard by them ftands a fmall log-houfe,
the proprietor of which is at prefent building a grift-mill below the fall.

THREE

342 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

THREE RIVERS POINT AND 'SQUIRE BINGHAM.

There exift few unpleafant Situations in this world, which may not
be considered in a lefs unfavourable point of view ; an exercife of imagi-
nation, with which, for fortie time paft, I have tolerably familiarifed my-
felf. The benefit arifmg from a bad rcfting- place is the acceleration of
the moment of departure. Mr. Vanallen, who fatisfied Penier's de-
mand with many carefles of the little ones, with compliments to the
grown up members of the family, and with a fmall prefent of chocolate
for Peniers himfelf, haftened to fet off. We went on board before five
o'clock in the morning. After a navigation, which ran constantly be-
tween, woods, and in the courfe of which we faw, in a trad: of country of
eleven miles in length, not one felled tree, we reached at laft, partly by
rowing, and partly by pufhing the veflel along, the rapids of the Three
Rivers. All fuperfluous people were here obliged to leave the veflel. Mr.
Vanallen, therefore, as well as myfelf, went on more, and repaired to a
fmall cottage, where we found a family, but very lately recovered from
the ague, and at prefent bufied in mowing a meagre looking field of wheat.
Thefe good pooplc, who have no neighbours, are neceffitated to do every
thing themfelves* Of eight children, who compofe this family, the
oldeft, who is nine years old, is alone able to affilt them a little. They
have neither rakes, harrows nor fcythes ; and yet it is better to facrifice
three fourths of their harveft, than to lofe the whole. Thefe poor people,
who have lived here a twelvemonth, were conftantly troubled with the
ague. They pofiefTed one thoufand two hundred acres of land, fix
hundred of which were, by the ftate of New York, given to the huf-
band, who had ferved in the army, and the other fix hundred he pur-
chafed two years ago for ten millings an acre, but was compelled by
extreme diltiefs to fell again three hundred,, with the fmall profit of two
millings per acre. The good people cultivate a garden ; they exchanged
fomc vegetables for a few pounds of pork, with which Mr. Vanallen
was readier to accommodate them from an opinion, that his recovery

depends

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 343

depends on the ufe of frefh provifion. They feem to be good and in-
duftrious people ; the wife, though mother of eight children, and fcarcely
recovered from the ague, is yet handfome. They prefented me with
fome potatoes and cucumbers, and declined accepting any payment.

After the rapids had been paffed, not without confiderable trouble,
we returned on board, and purfuing our voyage with lefs obflrucKon
than before, we at length reached the point, where the Ofwcgo river
joins the Onondago, which proceeds from the fmall lakes, changes its
name, and allumes that of the river Oneida. Thefe appellations mould
rather be reverfcd. As we worked up the ftream, the river Oneida flow-
ing out of the lake of that name, meets the Onondago, which falls into
it, and is now called Ofwego ; but I write as I travel.

The whole tradl of land, which we have traverfed fmce we left
Ofwego, lies in the county of Onondago, which extends as far as Lake
Oneida, contains nearly one million eight hundred thoufand acres of ex-
cellent land ; and yet, according to the laft computation, has no more
than three thoufand inhabitants.

The Three Rivers Point, which is the name of this place, is a very in-
terefting fpot. The navigation, by which the provifion from the diftricl
of Gencllee is conveyed acrofs the lakes, and the fait from the brine -
Ipring, near the borders of Onondago, here joins that by which the pro-
vifion is procured on the Mohawk River from Albany and all the
eaftern provinces. The navigation between Albany and the Lakes of
Gcncffee has hitherto been far more frequent than from any of thefe
points to Lake Ontario. But the time cannot be diftant, when this
fpot, where at prefent ftands no building but an inn, will become the
lite of an important town. As yet, it is one of the moft unhealthy fpots
in a country by no means remarkable for falubrity. Our 'Squire, who had
purchafedin Kingfton flour for fix dollars a barrel, and pork for fixpcncc a
pound, and from the connivance or extraordinary blindnefs of the Englifh
officers, conveyed it to the River Ofwego, thought now of felling it here
with confiderable profit. He had already difpofed of fome barrels of flour
for eight dollars a barrel at the Ofwcgo Falls, and intended to tranfmit his

whole

"' M TRAVELS IK N6RTH AMERICA,

whole cargo to Saltfprings, where he hoped to fell it for ten dollars a
barrel. But he learned here, that the meeting, relative to the treaty"
v/ith the Indians, was not to take place; that the country was full of
provilion ; that it was fold at a much lower price than he demanded ;
and that ipecie was very fcarce. He was, therefore, neceflitated to giv?,
up his fond hopes, and embrace the refolutioii of proceeding fomewhat
farther in quefl of purchafers.

I entertained fome hope that, on account of this difappointmcnt, w r e
mould this afternoon proceed fome miles farther, when a veilel arrived,
on board of which were Meflrs. RENSELAER, HENRY, and STOUTS, all
inhabitants of Albany of great refpc&ability. The firft was not yet per-
fectly recovered from a fever, which had left him in fome meafun-.
but ftill carried all the fymptoms of an intermittent. Thefe gen-
tlemen intended not to proceed farther. Mr. Vanallen propofed to
delay his departure until the next morning, to travel in their company ;
he introduced us to them, and a glafs of good wine, which they carried
with them (they travelled all much at their eafe), confoled Dupetit-
thouars as well as myfelf for this new delay. 1

Every one in the houfe was ill. The landlord, another 'Squire, was
juft recovered from the ague ; but his wife was ilill indifpofed with it,
and in bed. His children and fervants were in the fame fituation, and ib
was a pretty young woman, about twenty years old, whom w r e iuppofed to
be married, becaufe flic fuckled an infant of two months ; but this,
alas ! was the unfortunate offspring of her love for a young man, who,
under a promife of marriage, had feduced and afterwards deferted her.
All thefe people lay ill in the room where we were to dine and fleep ;
for it was the only room in the houfe. The new comers, who brought
with them a very tight tent, declared that they would rather pafs the
night under this tent, than breathe the noxious air of this houfe. Mr.
Vanallen, ftruck with a dread of a relapfe of the ague, ordered his tent,
which confifted only of his fail, to be pitched on the banks of the. river ;
we wrapped ourfelves up, as umal, in oar blankets.

Lhad juft fallen aflecp, when I was waked by the landlord, who called

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 345

me Door. Having obferved, in the courfe of the day, that I concerned
myfelf about his patients, and carefully enquired into the particulars of
their indifpofition, and their treatment, he concluded that I muft needs
be a phyfician. " Doctor," faid he, " for God's fake, get up ! unlefs you
immediately relieve the young woman fhe will certainly die. The Doclor,
who was here eight days ago, left her fome medicine, which was to laft till
this day, and he faid would cure her. She is much worfc now, and the me-
dicine is all gone. Pray do give her fomething, that fhe may not die."
Though I w T as a long while debating with myfelf, whether or no I was to
accept the title of Doctor, and at length allured him, that I had no claim
to that title, yet 'Squire BINGH AM, miflaking my modefly for ill-nature or
drowfmefs, infilled on my adminiftering relief to the young woman. For-
tunately it fo happened, that in my faddle-bag I had fome James's powder,
which Mr. BORDLEY was fo kind as to procure me before my departure
from Philadelphia. From an opinion, that in thefe defperate circum-
ftances it might perhaps be of fervice, I declined with lefs obflinacy to
anfwer the confidence repofed in me by the good man. He conducted
me to the bed of the patient, who, I found, was fwoln, covered with
petechia, and delirious ; under thefe circumflances my James's powder
could do no harm. But unfortunately I had loft the printed direction,
pointing out the dofe, a correcl: knowledge of which I flood much in need
of, as I had never before feen it ufed, and this was the reafon why Mr.
Bordley gave me the above direction. By fhe wing any irrefolution I
ihould have leffened the confidence, which, though very undefervedly
placed in me, I wiflied to preferve. With a tolerable degree of afTurance
I gave her twenty grains in a glafs of Madeira, which the patient took
with implicit confidence. Four hours had fcarcely elapfed, when the
enraptured 'Squire w r aked me again, to announce the good fuccefs of my
prefcription. It had produced a flrong perfpiration and evacuations,
which the Phyfician of Onondago had, thefe eight days pafl, in vain en?
deavoured to procure. On the following morning, previoufly to my depar-
ture, I gave her ten grains more, left her another dofe, and departed loaded
with the bleflings of the unfortunate young woman, who kiffed my hands,

Yy my

TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

my coat, and would not let me go. I gave Mr. Bingham, who con-
fulted me alfo, fome bark, and left Three Rivers Point, carrying with
me the thanks of all the people in the houfe, leaving behind a diilin-
guifhed reputation for medical talents, and enjoying the happinefs of hav-
ing accidentally done fome good by my advice. The unlucky ftars of
the young woman, whorh Mr. Bingham took into his houfe eight months
before, had conducted her feducer into the inn, who aggravated his for-
mer offence by ufmg her ill in her prefent fituation. He arrived on board
a veffel bound for the drftricl: of GenerTee, whither he was going in quell
of labour ; and his conduct had thrown my poor patient into convulfions,
which my powder completely conquered. On my return to Philadel-
phia, it will be eafily conceived, 1 ceded all the honour of the cure to-
Mr. Bordley, who made me fhudder at the medical experiment I had
made. He told me, that in no cure whatever James's powder mould be
given in a larger dofe than feven grains ; but I had favcd the poor woman,
whofe life, by a ftricl: obfervance of the printed direction, might perhaps
have been loft.

The fpot, on which the inn {lands, belongs to 'Squire Bingham, who
alfo poflefles a few acres contiguous to the building, and a confiderable
quantity of land at fome diflance from it. All thefe lands would be to-
lerably good, but for their marlhy, low, and flat fituation, which expofes
them to frequent inundations. The water is abominable ; and the air
bad.

ROTTERDAM AND LAKE ONEIDA. MR. DE VATINES.

The paflage to Lake Oneida was attended with lefs difficulties, than
that of the preceding days ; we found it excellent, travelling in the com-
pany of the gentlemen of Albany, one of whom was brother to the
Deputy- governor of New York, the fecond one of the richefl merchants
of Albany, and the third a very refpe&able lawyer ; their behaviour was
frank and polite. We Hopped at Fort Brompton at the entrance of
the lake. This {lruc"lure alfo is furrounded with pallifadoes, creeled lafl
year ; it {lands at the foot of an ancient entrenchment, conftrucled by
.

the

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 347

the Englifh during the American war, on an advantageous ground, com-
manding the entrance of the lake. The work was thrown up in a zig-
zag figure ; but from the remains no diftincl idea can be formed, how
the cannon could be pointed to advantage. All the antiquities of this
country confift in the remains efforts, built in the wars of 1776 or 1/56.
Fancy muft live in future ages, to find occupation in this infant country ;
paft ages can exift here only for generations not yet born.

The proprietor of the houfe had gone to Rotterdam three days before. 1
A girl of fourteen was left behind to take care of the houfe, and of a
little brother, who was fick, and whom Hie actually nurfed with a foli-
citude truly affecting. The girl, poor thing, did all me could for our ac-
commodation, but nothing was to be procured. ' We mould have been
obliged to content ourfelves with a few fmall potatoes, which we pulled
up in the fields, if the Indians, who were encamped on the oppofite bank
of the river, had not brought us a large pike, which they had caught in
the morning with a harpoon.

Our feamen, worn out with fatigue, refufed at firft to proceed the fame
evening to Rotterdam, ten miles farther up the lake. But from the fcanti-
nefs of our provifion, they altered their mind, thinking, that they might
be better off in that place. Rotterdam is an infant fettlement, formed
but ten months ago. Mr. SCHREIBER, a rich Dutch merchant, pof-
leffes a large tract of land, extending from Lake Ontario to Lake Oneida.
He fixed upon the mouth of Bruce-creek as the fite of the chief place,
and another fettlement he has formed on Little Salmon-creek, two miles
from Lake Ontario. Bruce-creek continues navigable fome miles farther
up. Mr. Schreiber has made a road from Rotterdam to his new town ;
but all thefe fettlements are yet of no importance. The whole city of
Rotterdam, to which the founder has given that name in honour of his na-
tive place, confifts of about twenty houfes. The dams, which he. comtructs
for two mills he is building, have coft him considerable iums of money ;
hitherto he has proved rather unfuccefsful in the conftruction of theft
dams, and has feveral times been neceffitated to recommence them a-new.
The grift-mill is not yet finifhcd ; the dams feem not to be of Sufficient

Y y 2 Strength

348, TBAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

ftrength for the mafs of water, which they are deftined to enclofe and
direct. Some very expenfive works, which he has creeled at the en-
trance of the creek, have contributed but very little to render them
more commodious. The money, which Mr. Schreiber has expended on
buildings and roads, is eftimated at eight thoufand dollars. If they were
conftru<fled on good principles, this money would have been w r ell fpent.
He is now building a handfome houfe of joiner's work, where he in-
tends to keep a ftore, in company with two partners, who are to ma-
nage this concern, to have a mare of the profits, and to acl: as his agents
in every branch of the bufmefs. A ftore or mop affords here, as indeed
it does all over America, the beft income, which a man can procure,
who incurs a confiderable expence in forming a new fettlement. Mr.
Schreiber, by means of his ftore, obtains all the money back, which he
expends for his building, &c. He fells his brandy for four millings and
iixpence a quart, rum for three millings and fixpence, flour for fixpence
a pound, and ten dollars and half a barrel, for which he pays no more
than feven dollars. The profit, he obtains by the fale of other provifion,
is ftill more confiderable. The land, which eighteen months ago he pur-
chafed for one dollar an acre, cofts now three, but is not much fought
after. The prefent fettlers come from New England and the environs
of Albany.

The partners of Mr. Schreiber in regard to his ftore are Dutchmen,
like himfelf. Their mopman is a mulatto, who at the fame time acls
as phyfician and gardener, and feems to have received a liberal educa-
tion. He is faid to be a brother of Mr. WELTH, one of the partners.
Labourers' wages are at Rotterdam four millings a day with board, or
fix {hillings and fixpence without it. For the bread for our own con-
fumption we paid nine-pence a pound, about eighteen French fous ; its
ufual price is fixpence. Frefh meat, when it can be procured, cofts eight-
pence a pound. But thefe kinds of provifion are fcarce, notwithftanding
the great number of workmen, employed by Mr. Schreiber, and confe-
quently dear. Fevers are as prevalent in this part of the country, as in
any we have hitherto traverfed.

Mr.

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 34Q

Mr. Vanallen found here an opportunity of felling his whole cargo, as
well as one of his veflels, but at a lower price than he hoped to obtain.
His flour he fold here for eight dollars a barrel, and at the Ofwego-falls
for eight dollars and a quarter. He concluded this bargain with feveral
fhop-keepers, and as it took up the whole morning, we gained fufficierit
time to vifit a Frenchman, who enjoyed the reputation of being a very
ikilful gardener. Although we found him bufied in gathering pota-
toes and onions, yet both his physiognomy and demeanour marked him
as a man of fome diftin&ion ; and we foon learned from him, that not
long ago, he pofTeiled a vifcount's eilate in the neighbourhood of Lille.
His father had fpent a part of his property ; he himfelf was rather pro-
digal, and fold for this reafon his frriall eftate for twenty-four thoufand
livres, before the French revolution broke out, to try his fortune with
this money in America. Having funk this fum alfo, in imprudent en-
terprifes and ufelefs expence, he was at length obliged to refort to agri-
culture for his livelihood. His name is VATINES, and he has already
refided three years in the neighbourhood of Lake Oneida. A whole
twelvemonth he paiTed with the Indians, whom he highly praifes, and
afterwards refided with his wife alone on an ifland in the lake, where he
cleared about twenty acres of land. About fifteen months ago he fettled
in Rotterdam, where Mr. Schreiber fold him one hundred acres on very
fair and reafonable terms. By his own confeffion, the various changes of
his place of refidence, have been regulated by the inconftancy of his
character, rather than by mature deliberation. He is about thirty years
old, fprightly, obliging, always merry, inured to labour, and never trouble-
fome with complaints of his fate. But he is prejudiced againft the
Americans, on account, of their unfair dealings in the courfe of bufmefs,
as he fays, and efpecially, becaufe they are extremely dull and melan-
choly. He lives, however, on very good terms with all the inhabitants
of Rotterdam ; though, in his judgment, they are even worfe than other
Americans. He aflifts them in their bufmefs, accepts their affiftance in
his bufmefs, and fells them at the highefl poffible rate the produce of his
fmall garden, which is well cultivated and {locked with culinary plants.

"350 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

He was extremely pleafed with feeing his countrymen, and offered us all
the vegetables in his garden, without accepting a Ihilling in return. All
his ideas are fixed on France, and on the moment, when peace mall al-
low him to return into a country, which he prefers to any other. Dry
bread in France he would not exchange for property and wealth in any
other part of the globe. This frame of mind is common to all French-
men. With the utmoft concern he enquired after news relative to the
armies of France and their fucceffes. To judge by our converfation with
him, he feems to poffefs more activity than judgment. His fentimentj?
concerning the French revolution are thofe of an honeft Frenchman. He
pofTeffed fome books, the choice of which was much to his credit Mon-
tefquieu, Buffon, Corneille, and a great variety of travels. After having
made away with hisjewels, his cloaths~and his linen, he was at lall obliged
to part with his library at half the price, which they would have fetched i
even in New York or Philadelphia. The keeper of the flore was the only
man within a fpace of two hundred miles, who could procure him a pur-
chafer, in the perfon of a rich Dutchman, who had fettled a few miles
from Rotterdam. We wifhed to fee Madame VATINES ; me is about
twenty-four years of age, pretty and good ; her eyes are beautiful ; her
look has much fweetnefs and expreffion, and it feems that me, like many
other wives, loves her hufband with more tendernefs, than he returns.
Nor mould I anywife be furprifed, if the expre (lions and light tone of
her hufband mould infpire her with jealoufy, although he appears to be
much attached to her. She is mother of three children, the oldeft of
whom is ten years old ,; me is of a mild and cheerful difpoiition, feniible
and judicious. She makes hay, bakes bread, cooks, and yet her hands
are very handfome. She is as little pleafed with America as her hufband,
efpecially the environs of Lake Oneida ; and me encourages him in the
defire of refiding at leaft in the fame place with fome other French fa-
milies. She felt much pleafure in our company, and enjoyed with us,
fhe faid, more happinefs in a quarter of an hour, than ihe would with
Americans, if me lived ten years among them. This fort of averlion, or
this diflike of Americans, is common to all the Frenchmen, you meet

with

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 351

with in this part of the globe. However roughly they may have been
handled by fate, they demand pleafmg forms, verfatility of expreffion,
mildnefs, chearfulnefs, and a frank and open demeanour. Their rafh-
nefs in forming opinions, and their prejudices, never leave them. Al-
though they may without injuftice entertain the opinion, that the out-
ward appearance of the Americans is lefs pleafmg than ours ; yet they
are certainly unjuft in contending, that they are lefs honeft, than other
people. Nothing, that has come within my obfervation, can juftify fuch
an opinion. We learned from Mr. Vatines, that Mr. DESJARDINS,
and not the Abbe Dcsjardins, as we were told at Niagara, had bought of
Mr. MA COMBE of Paris three hundred thoufand acres of land, along the
banks of the Black River in Hunger-bay, in company with two other
Frenchmen, one of whom, Mr. FARON, an architect, was lately drowned,
in croffing the Black River. They are now furveying thefe lands, on
w r hich they intend to form large fettlements. Mr. Desjardins is faid to
be a man of confiderable property ; he is married, and at prefent en-
gaged in building a houfe in Albany. All thefe particulars we learned
from I^Ir. Vatines, whom we left with the promife of a mutual kind re-
membrance. Rotterdam ftands on the borders of the county of Herke-
mer, to which it belongs.

WOOD-CREEK.

Lake Oneida is t\venty-eight miles in length, about eighteen of which
remain yet to be crofted, before we leave it. You fee not one building,
or any fettlement along the banks of the lake, excepting a farm-houfe,
built by Mr. VANDEKAMP (the fame w r ho bought Mr. Vatines's books),
and fituated five miles from Rotterdam. Endlefs forefts, an indifferent
foil, and no eminence, appear towards the north. The country rifes
more fouthwards, where mountains come in view, at the diftance often
or twelve miles, in a direction parallel to the lake. Thefe mountains
are the fame, which w r e faw on Lake Ontario, on our way from King-
flon to Ofwego. Lake Oneida is from five to fix miles in breadth. On
its fouth-eaft bank, a few miles from the ihore, {lands the Indian viU

lage

352 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

lage of Oneida. This nation is now engaged in concluding a treaty, by
which it is to fell the country, fouth of Oneida-lake, called the Oneida
Refervation, to the ftate of New York. I am not acquainted with the
conditions of this treaty ; all I know is, that the nation are to retain a
tracft of land of twelve fquare miles in extent, which is to be fecured to
them by all poffible means, together with the right of a free fifhery in
the lake. But a few years ago, the Oneida Indians were poiTefTors of
the immenfe extent of country, which is now in the hands of the Ame-
rican fpcculators in land. That thefe lands mould come into fuch hands,
as are able to put them into a good condition, can be no matter of regret,
efpecially as the Indians confent to it. But might it not be pomble, to
form fettlements amidfl thefe people, to civilize them by agriculture,
and to inflrucl: them by example ? This tribe, it is aflerted, encreafes
rather than decreafes in numbers. If this were true, it would be the
only infiance among all the Indian nations, yet known, and deferve en-
couragement. Civilization is faid to have already, in fome meafure,
gained ground among the Indians, and agriculture to have reached a
higher degree of perfection with them than in any other tribe. The ne-
gociations, we were informed, meet, however, with obflructions, which
are likely to impede a fuccefsful ifTue. General SCHUYLER, who con-
duels them on the part of the United States, and who intends to pur-
chafe all the land on his own account, experiences a ftrong oppofition
from TIMOTHY PICKERING, the Secretary of State, who is faid to be
difpleafed, that he himfelf cannot come in for a mare in the propofed
indemnification. Thefe particulars, which I have from perfons, who
think themfelves well-informed, may yet be mere fcandalous reports,
although they carry no improbability with them.*

We counted on advancing a few miles on the Wood-creek, before we
mould flop, when we fell in with our company from Albany, who had
halted at the mouth of the lake. A fit of the ague had obliged Mr. Van

* The negociations, mentioned by the author, aftually led to the treaty of 1795, by
which the Oneida nation fold the Oneida refervation to the flate of New York, for an
annuity of three thoufand five hundred and fifty-two dollars. Tranjl.

Renfelaer

BY THE DU.KE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 353

Renfelaer to put a period to this day's journey at two o'clock in the after-
noon. The gentlemen propofed to us, to ftop likewife; our conductor
accepted the propofal, and our confent was a matter of cotirfe. We
palled the night in fcratching, rather than in fleep ; for the marangouins
and other fmall gnats are more numerous and troublefome, along the
banks of the Wood-creek, than in any other part of thefe wilderneffes.
W^e were obliged to fend for water, to a fpring, which was known to the
people on board our veflel, but three miles diftant. . This water, though
bad in itfelf, w r as excellent in comparifon with the muddy, mephitic and
ftagnant water of Wood-creek, and, with rum, was drinkable. Our din-
ner confided of fome potatoes, which were left from our laft meal at
Rotterdam ; we had plenty of bifcuit ; and although we were badly off
in every refpecl:, yet we found, that things might be worfe.

CANADA CREEK.

Wood-creek is the fmall ftream of Lake Oneida ; at its mouth it is
fcarce fixteen yards in breadth, and fomewhat farther up hardly eight. The
courfe of this creek being a continued ferpentine winding, the diftance
from its fource to the mouth, which in a ftraight line is eflimated at
forty miles, is trebled by thefe meanders. It is under contemplation to
conftrucl a canal, intended to cut off Several of thefe windings, and to
retain a part of its prefent channel. The moderate mafs of water, con-
tained in this ftream, is alfo obftrucl;ed by a confiderable number of trees,
rooted out and fwept along by the flream in fpring and autumn, when it
overflows its banks. It is with great difficulty a veflel works her w r ay
through thefe incumbrances. This fluggifh river has probably taken its
name from the great number of trunks of trees, which obftru<5l the naviga-
tion, and rot in the water; for, oth'erwife, it has no better claim to the name
of Wood-creek, than all other fmall rivers and lakes in America, which
in general flow through woods. This navigation is, in my opinion, far
more troublefome, than that of the Ofwego; at leaf! it is equally fo ; and
it can hardly be expelled, that the propofed canal, were it even finiflied,
and kept in good repair, ftiould for ever remove the impediments, which

Z z obflrucT;

354 TRAVELS IK NORTH AMERICA,

obftrucl the navigation. Throughout the whole courfe of this creek, it
receives only the waters of Canada Creek ; which, excepting for two
months in the year, difcharges into it but a fmali quantity of water. But,
in fpring, it rifes in fo extraordinary a degree, that the trees, under
which we are now paffing along, and the branches of which hang two
feet above our heads, were, laft May, covered with water in fuch a man-
ner, that the fame veflel, in which we now find ourfelves, at that time
panned over the trees, without noticing their exigence.

On the arrival of veflels in Canada Creek, they mufl be unloaded to
pafs nine or ten miles farther, the laft two of which cannot be pafled at
all, if the miller, who poflefles a mill at the entrance of the creek, allow
not his water to flow into the creek, which he fometimes refufes. The
cargoes of the veflels are traniported in waggons, about ten or eleven
miles ; the paflengers travel over the fame ground, as they choofe, or as
they can. The veflels themfelves, w r hen they have approached the fource
of Wood- creek within one or two miles, arc put on waggons, to pafs
the interval, which feparates the lake we havejuft left from Mohawk
River, where they are launched again.

Although our party had formed the bold refolution of pufliing on to
the head of Mohawk River, we halted at Canada Creek, refolved to let
the veflel proceed onwards in moonmine, and to purfue, ourfelves, the
voyage on the next morning at break of day. The foil was all along of
a black colour and excellent quality ; although it did not cover the rocky
ground to any confiderable depth.

In the whole courfe of our navigation on the Wood-creek, twenty-
four miles in length, we faw not one building, and found but one fpring,
called Oakorchard, which was four minutes filling a finall glafs, and
the water of which w r as but of a middling quality.

FORT STANWIX.

In the evening we generally fay, we fhall be awake early in the morn-
ing. But this frequently not being the cafe, a fatiguing journey is pro-
tra&ed in a tedious manner, and a good night-lodging is more feldom

obtained

BY THE DUKB DE LA JtOCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. __ 355

obtained in a country, where in general fuch lodging is exceedingly rare.
This inconvenience, however, cannot poffibly be avoided by a numerou?
party, compofed of people labouring under infirmities and fond of eafe.
Our veflels had not yet ftarted at fix in the morning ; the waggons had
not yet arrived; and it was feven o'clock before we left Mr. GIL-
BERT'S inn, which we found tolerably good, and which would have been
much better, had our company been lefs numerous. Rotterdam we had
left full of fick people ; we were now about fifty miles from it, had feen
no other houfe ; and the firft we entered was no lefs an infirmary. The
landlady, the maid, the man-fervant, were all indifpofed with the ague,
and the few neighbours of the inn were in the fame fituation, as the
Gilbert family. The land along Woodr creek, which is not of great
value, being fubjecl: to inundation, cofts three dollars the acre. The
price of that about Gilbert's houfe is five dollars, and it is but of mid-
dling quality. The conflruction of the canal induces the proprietors to
raife the price of the land, though it is not frequently fought after ; and
in truth, I am at a lofs to conceive, how any one can be tempted to in-
habit the banks of this miferable creek. MeiTrs. Van Reiifelaer and Van-
alien, the two fick members of our party, made the tour on horfeback ;
Mr. Henry, Mr. Stouts, and myfelf, travelled on foot ; and Dupctit-
thouars, paflionately fond of vcflels and navigation, followed the boats to
help them along. Since we began to travel together, not a moment has
palled, but I have congratulated myfelf on my travelling in his company ;
he is the moft quiet, cheerful, and pleafant companion ; he plays with
children, converfes with exquifite fenfe with men, who dcfcrve his notice ;
drinks with officers, and rows with feamcn ever brave, ever fimple, and
for this reafon profpering, in fome meafure, every where.

The whole tract of country, through which this river flows, from
Due extremity to the other, is called Fort Stanwix, and takes its name
from a fort, ereclxd for the protection of the communication between
the two ends of the riven Colonel ST. LEGER, in order to attack this
fort, attempted the difficult navigation of Wood-creek, frill more ob-
ftructed by the trees, which the Americans had purpofely thrown into

Z z 2 the

35(5 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

the ftream. He fucceeded in penetrating to the fort, which he befieged,
but the intelligence of the capture of General BUR COYNE'S army put a
fpeedy end to the fiege. I learned from General Simcoe, that on this
retreat the Englifh troops loft more men from the Indians firing on them,
than from the purfuit of the Americans. We halted on the fpot where
Wood-creek entirely ceafcs to be navigable, very near to its fource.

The inn of Mr. STERN EY was full of people indifpofed with the ague.
The whole neighbourhood was crowded with others in the fame condi-
tion ; and, by his account, numbers of travellers are daily arriving, who
have not efcaped the influence of the tainted air and of the contagion,
which prevails in the diftricl: of GenefTee. Within this laft fortnight
the flux has joined the fever, already fufficiently dreadful in itfelf ; it
rages with all the violence of an epidemical difeafe, and carries off a
great many people. At every door, at which we flopped, we obferved
the fame yellow palenefs in every face, and received the fame accounts.
Having, at length, reached the place on the river Mohawk, where we
were to embark, we found Mr. Renfelaer in a fit of the ague. An hour
after, arrived the mate of Mr. Vanallen's veffel, feized with the fame
illnefs, and laft of all came Dupetitthouars, the Hercules of our party, com-
plaining of pains in his limbs, head-ache, and cold Ihiverings. The poor
man had felt thefe fymptoms thefe two days, but concealed it from me,
left I mould repeat my earneft entreaties to 'him, not to undergo fuch ex-
ceffive fatigue. Every one of our party, who felt not quite fick, began
now to examine, whether he were not deceived in his opinion of being
well; the fear of being attacked by the univerfal contagion was openly con-
fefled ; and the whole converfation turned upon the means of efcaping it,
on the moft wholefome food, and the beft remedies. Our whole day was
fpent in this manner ; for our veffels, which had fet out at feven o'clock
in the morning, did not arrive until nine in the evening. The great
number of the fick in the country, attention to the patients of our ow n
party, and the waiting for the veflels, prevented me from collecting in-
formation. What little intelligence I obtained is as follows : The land
on the Mohawk River cofts five dollars an acre. The fettlcrs in this

townmip,

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 357

townfhip, which was formed fix or fcvcn years ago, come moft of them
from Connecticut ; among thefe are many Methodifts, Baptifts and
Epifcopalians ; but the major part are Prefbyterians. Divine fervice is
performed in private houfes, and pretty regularly attended ; but from
want of preachers all the prayers are read fucceffively by a member of the
congregation ; and in this confifls the whole fervice.

MAYER'S TAVERN. MOHAWK RIVER.

I had cherimed a hope, thatDupetitthouars'sfufFerings would be fmimed
in half a day, and that this would be the onlypunifhment for the excef-
five fatigue, which he had very imprudently undergone. But the ague
has actually made its appearance, with all the lymptoms which charac-
terize this malady. Our fituation is extremely unpleafant, unprovided
as we are with any means of affiftance. Although exhaufted by fatigue,
and fcorched by the fun, from w T hich nothing can protect us in this
vexatious veffel, we have yet not been in a bed for thefe eight days paft.
Independently of my apprehenfion for my companion, I moft devoutly
wifh to fee the end of this parTage, and yet our arrival in Albany is con-
tinually delayed by new obftruclions. The navigation of the Mohawk Ri-
ver is fortunately not like that of the rivers, we have patted lately. We de-
fcend gently with the ftream ; and although its channel is in fome places
obftrufted with trees, yet they may be eafily cleared. It receives many
fmall creeks and fprings, the water of which is excellent ; for thefe four
days pall we had not met with any tolerable water. The foil is good all
along the way we have travelled, but grows better, in proportion as you
proceed to a greater diftance from the fource of the ftream. The fettle-
ments are more numerous, efpecially on the right bank. Ten miles far-
ther on, they begin likewife to be fo on the left bank ; and here the com-
munication between the fettlers on both fides is kept up by wooden
bridges. Ten miles from Fort Stan wix, the price of land is from five to
fix dollars per acre. A great part is leafed out for life ; the lefTee agrees
to pay the proprietor a certain fum per acre, as long as he cultivates it.

The

358 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA.

The leafe is generally granted for three lives, which he can choofe at
pleafure, or for his own life and the lives of his children* The man, in
whofe houfe we breakfafted, holds one hundred acres by this tenure,
but not from the firft owner ; and thus without having had the right of
choofing the lives, the duration of which is to determine the period of
his leafe. Only nineteen acres have been yet cleared, for he fettled here
only fifteen months ago. Ten of thcfe acres, w r hich are fown with
wheat, yield from thirty to thirty-five bufhels an acre ; a produce, which
affords him not only fubfiftcnce, but alfo a fufficient overplus to pay his
rent.

SCHUYLERTOWN.

The fettlement of Schuylertown is the moft confiderable we have
hitherto feen, fince we left Wilkfbarre. It is a tracl: of country popu-
loufly fettled, rather than an infant fettlement ; though its occupation
commenced but in 1/85. The land, which at that time colt a few
pence the acre, and three years ago no more than five dollars, is now fold,
not only in the vicinity of the town, but alfo fifteen miles beyond it,
for nineteen or twenty dollars per acre. General SCHUYLEK and Dr.
BLIGHT arc the original proprietors of a great part of thefc lands, which
they purchased from the ftatc* A road from Albany to the diftricl; of
Gencflee, which runs by this town, occafions a number of perlbns to pafs
this way, befide thofe who come by water. Colonifts from New Eng-
land form the moft confiderable part of the population of this rich and
opulent fettlement. The land is excellent, and yields, per acre, from
twenty-five to thirty bufliels of grain. Day-labourers are eafily obtained;
their wages are generally four millings a day, and fix millings in harveft.
Wheat is cut with the fickle. The harveft turns out plentiful, this year ;
and the price of flour, which was hitherto nine dollars a barrel, has al-
ready gotten down. The inhabitants are bufied in gathering in their
crops ; and the country has an appearance of profperity and plenty.

The town confiits of about one hundred and fifty houfcs, many of
which are well built ; of two churches, one belonging to the Prefby-

tcriana,

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAITLT LIANCOURT. 350,

terians, who are the moft numerous, and the other to members of the
Epifcopal church. The other feels have churches in the furrounding
country. This town is the capital of the county of Herkemer, which,
by the laft computation, contained twenty-five thoufand five hundred
and twenty- three inhabitants.* Both the jail and court-houfe were
built three years ago ; and rates have, but very lately, been alfefled, to
reimburfe the expence. The quotas of the inhabitants are raifed on the
fame principles, as all other taxes, and are very trifling. The aggregate
fum of all the taxes amounts fcarcely to fixpence in the pound. One or
two paupers, fupported by voluntary contributions, conflitute the whole
burthen upon the charity of the townfhip. The roads are good ; the
country is beautifully pleafant, and almoU entirely cleared. Cattle are
reared in great numbers. Freili meat may be had at all times, and coils
fixpence a pound. One grift-mill and three faw-mills within a fpace of
four miles around the town, promote its profperity. All the provifion,
which is not confumed in the country, in winter is fent to Albany.
The number of houfes may be augmented in the town, but the profpe-
rous and flourifhing condition of the country admits of hardly any en-
creafe. All the lands along the Mohawk River are of a very good qua-
lity ; the uncleared parts bear none but found and large trees, and the
ground under cultivation is extremely productive. The country is every-
where high, healthful, well watered, and doubtlefs one of the fineft parts
of the United States. Intermittent fevers are not more frequent here,
than in all healthy and iettled countries ; few perfons are afflicted with
that diftemper, but the flux is at this time making fome ravages among
the inhabitants.

GERMAN FLATS.

The German Flats are ftill more beautiful, than the country about
Schuylertown. This eftablimment was formed about eighty years ago.

* The county of Herkemer contains, by the flate cenfus of 1796, twenty-five thou-
fand five hundred and feventy- three inhabitants, of whom four thoufand one hundred
and fixty-onc are eleftors. Translator.

Dutchmen

360 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

Dutchmen and Germans were the firft fettlers. Since that time other
families from Germany and Holland have joined the ancient colonifts,
and numerous fettlers continue to arrive from thofe parts, as well as
other European countries. The German tongue and German manners
have been preferved a&iong the families of the original planters. Yet this
language is not exclusively the fpeech of the diftricl, as in Reading and
Lancafler. The German Flats are famous throughout America, on ac-
count of their fertility. The fruitful foil is from fifteen to twenty feet in
depth ; the eminences, which bound thefe low grounds, pofTefs the fame
foil ; many of them are high mountains, cultivated up to the fummits,
which in fome places are crowned with beautiful meadows. The ffcaple
commodity is wheat ; but Indian-corn, buck-wheat, water-melons, and
gourds, are alfo cultivated. All plants are here of an uncommon fize, and
a peculiar flavour, efpecially potatoes. They are my favourite food, when
I am on a journey; efpecially at prefent, when they are the only frefh
vegetables, which can be had. Moreover, they feem to be prophylactics
in the febrinc atmofphere, in which we are travelling.

Some lands in the Flats, clofe to the river, would not be fold for lefs
than one hundreid, or one hundred and thirty dollars an acre. Cattle are
here neither .ramerous nor of a fine breed. Horfes are reared in the
greateft number; but thofe I have feen are not remarkable for beauty;
fcveral of them are put to a waggon by the farmers. The harveft is un-
commonly plentiful ; and it is here fpeedily houfed, as labourers may be
eafily procured. But, what a difference between the grave afliduity of
this people, and the cheerful, merry, and melodious activity of our reapers
in France ! The harveft is and was there a feaft, a time of plcafure as of
bleffings. All were content. Old people and children, man and wife,
young men and girls, all participated in this universal, real, noify, and
contagious mirth, which, far from interrupting the labour, inspirited the
labourers to greater zeal and exertion. The time of hay-making and
the vintage what an univcrfal joy, charming giddincfs, and delight-
ful fpe<5hicle, did they not afford, fit to enrapture the oldeft breaft !
What nation understands better to enjoy happincis, than the amiable

French ?

BY THE DUKli DB LA nOCHEPOUC\ULT LlANCOURtV

French r Ah ! am I never to celebrate a harveft-home but on a foreign
ioil ?

The corn in the German Flats, although uncommonly fine, would be
dill finer, if the fields were cultivated with more care ; the farmers gene-
rally neglect to free them from weeds in fpring. Noxious plants moot up,
therefore, more copioufly, in proportion as the foil is richer, and obdrucl
the growth of the corn. The form of the fields, the expanfe of the banks of
the river, and the fwelling hills and mountains, offer a delightful variegated
profpecl, the charms of which are heightened by the numerous buildings
interfperfed, of various forms and colours. To an extent of twelve or fifteen
miles, the right bank forms an uninterrupted village, of a confiderablc
depth. Fevers are not frequent here ; but the flux carries off, at prefent,
numbers of people, The heat is in truth excefiivc, and the fun, which
darts piercing rays, remains long above the horizon. The heat is altogether
intolerable, expofed as we are to it in an open veiTel ; and the nights arc
nearly as troublefome as the days. Never are they cooled by the flighted
breeze, and they are dill warm with the fultry heat .of the preceding day,
when the fun rifes again. This is the hotted weather, I have ever ex-
perienced. My thermometer dands in the made generally at ninety-
three degrees of Fahrenheit (twenty-feven one-ninth Reaumur).

THE CANAL AND LITTLE FALLS TOWNSHIP. PALATINE.

Seven miles from the German Flats are the Little Falls, which again
occafion a land-carriage of three-fourths of a mile. Thefe falls are mere
violent rapids ; feveral rocks .of different fize narrow the channel of the
dream ; the consequent agitation of the water occafions a foam, and in-
terrupts the navigation. The adjacent country, two miles above and
'below the raprds, is alfo full of rocks. The foil is fandy, fwampy, and
rocky ; fuch is the nature of this fpot, a dain of the fined country in
tlic world. Immediately after you have paffed this vein of done, tht
land is again as beautiful and fertile as before.

For thcfc three years pad? the people have been bulVd in co nil ft ing 3

3 A canal.

3G2 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

canal, which runs along the banks of the rapids, and is intended to re-
move the impediments, that interrupt the navigation. A company of
gentlemen of confiderable property, fupported by a great number of fub-
fcribers, have entered upon this undertaking, and but very lately ob-
tained a powerful aid from the Legiilature of the State of New York,
which has fubfcribed largely for this enterprife. The canal, it is aflerted,
is ta be finimed this year ; and we are afTured, that it will be accomplimed
very foon. The work is, however, in my judgment, but little advanced ;
although the whole length amounts to no more than three quarters of a
mile ; the progrefs is very flow; and a rock is to be cut through. The
ftones, which are dug out, are partly made ufe of for creeling a wall three
feet in height on both fides of the canal. This wall is again covered with
earth, which is alfo thrown againft it on both fides,, fo that it forms a
dam, the top of which is eight feet in width, and the Hope about thirty.
As neither mortar nor any other cement is ufed in creeling the wall, it
remains with me a matter of doubt, whether the water will not find its
way through the dam, and do mifchief. At the beginning of the canal
two locks have been conftrucled, which are completely fmifhed, except
that the doors are not yet hung. Thefe locks are built all of wood, the
foundation as well as the fides, and the workmanfhip, as far. as I am able
to judge, is very good ; but I am at a lofs to conceive, why no flones are
made ufe of in the conftruclion of this work, as they abound in the mr-
rounding country. Two hundred and fifty workmen are conftantly em-
ployed at the canal, w T ho receive each fix millings a day, without board.
Thefe workmen are divided into certain companies ; a great number of
them are inhabitants of the neighbourhood, but many are alfo Irifhmen
newly arrived, nay Irifh convicls, whofe conduct is far from being bene-
ficial to the country.

The town of Little Falls confifts of about fifty well-built houfes. A
corn-mill of an excellent conftruclion, and a faw-mill, have been creeled
on thefe rapids.

After a navigation of twenty miles, our 'Squire flopped near a houfc,
which, by his account, was fully adequate to indemnify us for the incc-n-

venieacies

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LrAWCOURT.

veniencies we had fuflained the preceding nights. But nothing at all
was to be had ; a whole hour elapled before we were able to obtain a bed
for Dupetitthouars, whofe illnefs grew conftantly worfe. The floor was
affigned to us for a refting place ; more we could not obtain. This
place belongs to the townfhip of Palatine ; it is feated on the left bank
of the river, poflefles the fame foil, and the fame honeft, flow, and dirty
Germans for inhabitants. This fcttlement was formed about feventy
years ago.

SKENECTADY.

My patient felt much relieved after an emetic I had given him the
preceding evening ; we were obliged to wake him at four o'clock, as
we wiflied to arrive at an' early hour at Skeneftady. The day pafled, in
regard to our patient, better than we expected, as we entered the port
without his having been attacked by another fit of the fever. We had,
therefore, ground to hope, that the dreadful fits, which he had fuftained,
were merely the confequences of exceflive fatigue. We flopped at Ca-
nalmgi, which is another German fettlement. The information above
detailed applies likewife to this place, even in regard to the prices of com-
modities. Water-melons and gourds are here alfo fown, either with In-
dian corn, or by themfelves, and are employed to great advantage in feed-
ing the cattle, during the five or fix months in which they muft necef-
farily be kept in the {table. The Heffian fly is yet unknown in this
fortunate country. The land is fo good, as not to ftand in need of ma-
nure. The prefent occupier has lived thirty-four years on this eftate,
and never laid dung on more than fix acres of his lands, which he ma-
nured thirty years ago very flightly.

After having pafled the fettlement, which formerly belonged to
W. JOHNSTON, ancient Englifli Director-general of Indian afFairs,
whofe eftates were confiscated at the time of the Revolution, bccaufe he
declared himfelf againfl: the Americans, we at length reached Skenec-
tady, the end of our navigation. Johnftowii is the capital of the county
f Montgomery, which contains about thirty thoufand inhabitants. Ske-

3 A 2 neclady

TRAVBL9 IN NOIITH AMERICA,

ne<5tady is a fmall town, as old as Albany, and containing moftly old
houfcs, built in the Dutch ftyle, which give it altogether the appearance
of an ancient European city. The Mohawk River, which is here clofely
hemmed in, takes a large fweep in the vicinity of this town ; and a cata-
racl renders the navigation impoffible. You here quit the veffcl, and
proceed by land to Albany. The poflibility of contracting a canal, by
which the falls as well as other impediments of the navigation of the Mo-
hawk River may be avoided, is acknowledged on all hands ; and plans, it
is aflerted, are in contemplation, to facilitate the painful pafTage we have
juft made, and to fuperfede the neceffity of occafional land- carriage.
This would be a great and ufeful undertaking, equally honourable and
advantageous for the State of New York. VeiTels of fifteen or twenty
tons burthen, it is faid, might be employed in this navigation, which
would thus become an outlet, far preferable to that of the River
St. Lawrence, which admits of only boats of three or four tons burthen.
We heard it reported in Upper Canada, it is true, that with an cxpence
of one million two hundred thoufand pounds fterling an uninterrupted
navigation might be opened from London to Niagara. But indepen-
dently of one million two hundred thoufand pounds fterling being a
pretty large fum, the whole project is the work of an adventurer, whofe
wiihes are cafily converted into hopes, and whofe hopes fpeedily mature
to opinions, the crroneoufnefs of which frequently time only devclopcs.

The information, which I was able to collecl rcfpecting Skeneclady,
is as follows. The fettlement was originally formed by Brabanters, in the
year lG62 : but in later times mod of the colonifts arrived from New
England ; and fo they do at preient. Two thirds of the territory of Ske-
neclady, which comprifes one hundred and twenty-eight fquare miles.,
are already cleared ; the good foil is five feet, and on eminences two feet
in depth ; good land yields from twenty-five to thirty bufhels of wheat
an acre ; land of inferior quality from twelve to fifteen ; agriculture, as
well as the price of provifion, is much the fame as in the more ad-
vanced parts ; winter la^ts, in regard to agricultural operations, from No-
vember till April ; the grain iuiFers but very Icldom, and in a trifling,

degree,

BY THE DUKE DE LA 11OCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 36$

degree, from the HeiTian fly, and from blights; the climate is healthy ;
the ufual mart for the production of the country is Albany. The Epif-
copa! is the prevalent religion ; although the town contains alfo a church
for German Lutherans, and one for Prcfbyterians. The German-, were
alfo the moft liberal benefactors to the inftitution of a college, which was
incorporated kft year (.1794), and the property of which, raifed by fub-
fcriptions and other means, amounts already to forty-two thoufand twy
hundred and twenty-two dollars, and one thoufand fix hundred acre; of
land, given by the ftates*.

Skenectady is the emporium as well for the provhion, which comes
down the Mohaw r k River, defigned for Albany, as for the merchandize,
which from the ftores at Albany is tranfmitted to the countries, inter-
fecled by the Mohawk River and other fbreams, flowing into the former
as far as the diftrict of GeneiTee. The townmip of Skenectady contains
about three thoufand five hundred foulsf . It is the frontier-town of the
county of Albany towards Montgomery. The capital of this county is
Albany ; the county of Albany contains about thirty thoufand inhabi-
tants, of whom two thoufand five hundred are flaves.

In. Skenectady we took our leave of Mr. Vanallcn, who, in addition
to the civilities fhewn us in the whole courfe of our voyage, declined alfo
to accept any money for our pafTage, on the ingenious pretence, that,
as we carried our provifions with us, we had not in the leail cncreafcd
his expence. We remain^ therefore, in many refpecls, under great obli-
gations to this gentleman.

TOUR TO ALBANY.

Mr. Vanallen had bufinefs to tranfact in Skeneclady, and we wifhed
to reach Albany as foon as pomble. A liable-keeper engaged to carry us

* The college, alluded to by the Author, is Union College, which took its name from
the union of various denominations of Chriftians in its eftablifhment. The faculty of
this college confifted, in nin, of the president and one tutor, and the number of ftudente
was thirty-feven. Tranjlator,

t By the State Ceafus of 1796, the townfhip of Skene&ady contains three thoufand
four hundj-ed and feventy-two inhabitants, of whom lix hundred and eighty-three arc
electors, and three hundred and eighty-one flaves. Tranfl,

366 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

the lame night to Albany, though it was already late ; we took accord-
ingly our feats in his waggon, bolftered with ftraw. About four mile*
from Skenectady, the driver informed vis, that he could not proceed far-
ther. Grumbling, we fubmittcd, therefore, to the necefiity of taking up
our night's lodging in a bad inn, where, as foon as Dupetitthouars had
occupied the only bed which was in the houfe, I entered into a conver-
fation with the landlord and our driver, which turned upon politics, the
univerfal topic in this country. Since we have fet foot in the territory
of the United States, we find newfpapers in every village. My new ac-
quaintances were people of uncouth manners, and without the leaft edu-
cation ; but their opinions were juft and fenfible, and their judgments ex-
tremely correct. They manifefted a ftrong attachment to France, and
moft earneftly willied her fuccefs. They hate England, confide in their
Prefident, and fpeak of DE LA FAYETTE with tears in their eyes. This
univerfal attachment of the Americans to De la Fayette, and the grateful
fentiments of him expreiTed by all without exception, though in the .
courfe of the French Revolution he acted a part not approved by all,
refute in a forcible manner the charge of levity and ingratitude fre-
quently preferred againil the Americans. " May he corne," faid a man
to us this morning who was riding on horfeback by the fide of our car-
riage, " May the Marquis come, we will make him rich. It is through
him that France made us free ; never fliall we be able to do fo much for
him, as he has done for us."

After a three hours' journey through a country, which is much like the,
woods of Anjou, fandy, covered with fern, and bearing none but fickly
trees, we at length arrived at Albany.

MINERALOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.

The minerals between Fort Ofwego and Albany, and the earth, with
which they are covered, are much the fame as in the diir.rict of Gcneflee,
and in Upper Canada. The rocks about the fort, as well as near the
rapids and water- fall, confiil of an imperfect granite, feldom interfperfed
with mica ; from time to time you meet with/Hate of a coarfe grain.

On the banks of Wood-creek I fcarcely faw any flones at all ; the

ground

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAI7LT LIAJJCOURT.

ground is immerfed in water to fuch a degree, that tiuring this tedi-
ous and winding paflage none come in view. The w r ater-fali in Mo-
hawk River (Little Falls) breaks through a chain of granite rocks,
that are obfervable in all parts of this fmall barren fpot, which, as has
already been remarked, is a difgrace to the rich furrounding country. In
the townfliip of Palatine lime-Hone is found of a very good quality. Two
wide terraces of earth, which bound the channel of the Mohawk, and
form its banks, are the moil remarkable appearance upon that river.
The banks of the Connecticut, it is aflcrted, offer the fame flriking
profpecl:.

As to the different fpecies of trees, I have had but little leifure to ob-
ferve them, not having been on fhore oftener than twice or thrice a day,
and never but for a few moments. They feem to be much the fame as
in the diilri<5t of Geneflee.

ALBANY.

Albany is one of the moft ancient fettlements in North America ; it
was formed in the year 1660 ; and the town incorporated in 1 686. The
hiflory of this city, which occurs in all defcriptions of the United State?,
I fliall pafs over in filence. It is feated one hundred and fixty-five miles
from New York, has a harbour, and a very extenfive trade. Ships cf
eighty tons burthen fail up to the town ; and the trade is carried on in
veflels of this fize. A fort of fand-bank, three miles below Albany, ren-
ders the navigation rather difficult ; yet it is eafily cleared with the
affiftance of pilots acquainted with it, and no fliip arrives without one
of them on board. This impediment, it is aflerted, might eafily be
removed at a trifling expence ; and fhips of a much larger fize might
then anchor near the city. The navigation of the river from the North
country is open from the middle of April until the middle of November.
The trade of Albany is chiefly carried on with the produce of the Mo-
hawk country, and extends eaftward as far as agriculture and cultivated
lands expand. The flate of -Vermont, and a part of New Hampfhire,
furmm'alfb many articles of trade ; and the exports chiefly coniift in tim-
ber and lumber of every fort and defcription, potatoes, potafh aid pearl -

afhes,

368 TRAVELS IX NOU.TH

afhcs, all fpccies of grain, and laftly in manufactured goods. Thefe articles
.are, moft of them, trail/ported to Albany in winter on Hedges, liouicd by
the merchants, and by them iucceffively tranfmitted to New York, where
they are either fold for bills on England, or exchanged for Englifh goods,
-which are in return font from Albany to the provinces, whence the arti-
cles for exportation were drawn. Bufmefs is, therefore, carried on en-
tirely with ready money, and efpecially in regard to pot-aili ; not even
the moft fubftantial bills are accepted in payment. The trade of Albany
is carried on in ninety vcflels, forty-five of which belong to inhabitant-
of the town, and the reft to New York or other places. They are in ge-
neral of feventy tons burthen, and make upon the average ten voyages a
year, which, on computing the freights outwards and homewards, pro-
duces a total of one hundred and twenty-fix thoufaiid tons of ihipping
for the trade of Albany. Every mip is navigated by four men ; the
ma|ler is paid twenty dollars a month, if he have no mare in the mip, the
mate fifteen, and a feaman nine. There is alfo generally a cabin-boy on
board, or more frequently a cook, as few mips have Icfs than eight paf-
fengers on board, either coming up or going down. The freight of goods
is ufually one fhilling a hundred weight ; but this varies, according to
xtheir value, or the room they occupy.

The trade of Albany is very fafe, but fecms not to be very profit-
able. The neat proceeds of a voyage amount upon an average to about
one hundred dollars, which makes for the whole year one thoufand dol-
lars for a fhip, a profit by no means confiderable. If you add to this the
money paid by paflcngers for their paiTage, which amounts to ten mil-
lings a head, making from feventecn to twenty dollars a voyage, and from
one hundred and Seventy to two hundred dollars for the ten voyages,
which ate made in the courfe of the year, the whole yields but a very
moderate profit, which is however encrcafed by the fale of the goods.
This is as yet the ufual way in which trade is carried on by this city ;
it deprives the merchants of Albany of a confiderable profit, and throws
it into the hands of thofe of New York. Some of the former un-
dertake indeed voyages to England, Holland, and other countries ; but,
for this purpofe they charter New York vefleb. Thcie -are the bold-ey

people ,

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

people ; and arc called men of the new notions, but their number i?
fmall.

The ancient cuftoms and confined views of the timid, yet covetous,
Dutchmen, have carefully been preferved in this city. No Imp fails
from Albany directly to Europe ; and yet proviiion is fent thither from
this place. It is evident that, if the inhabitants would take themfelves
the trouble of exporting their produce, they would favc ufelefs intereft,
the return-freight, and double commiflion, and would obtain employ-
ment for their ihips during the time, when the navigation to the north
is flint up by ice. Ideas of this complexion begin to dawn upon the
minds of fonie merchants, and will, no doubt, produce advantageous
changes. From the fame habitual apathy the merchants of Albany
relinquish the trade in horfes and mules, great numbers of which are
reared in the neighbourhood, to the Connecticut merchants, who pur-
chafe and export them with confiderablc profit to the Antilles.

The building of lliips colls in Albany about twenty-feven dollars and
half per ton. The ihips are all fir-built, and laft about ten years. Experi-
ments have been made, which prove, that mips built of dry and well fea-
foned timber, laft thirty years and upwards. The trade of Albany grows
daily more extenfive ; and the number of fliops and Imps is increafmg
fail. Two new towns, built five or fix years ago, a few miles above Al-
bany, on the northern bank of the river, ihare in this trade. Thefe two
towns, which have rapidly raifed themfelves to a confiderable degree of
importance, and are but three or four miles diftant from each other,
carry on the fame trade as Albany with about twenty- five or thirty
veflels, which belong to them, draw from the back country the produc-
tions of thefe fruitful prov inces, tranfmit them to New York, take in
return European goods, and fupply with them thofe parts, which were
formerly fupplied from Albany. The greater diftance, however, and leis
depth of water, are circumstances unfavourable to thefe new towns.
The freight thence to Albany is two-pence per barrel ; their largeft
ftiips arc only of fixty tons burthen, and generally cannot take on board
more than half their cargo, the remainder of which they receive from

3 B , lighters,

370 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

lighters, which attend them for that purpofe in the vicinity of Albany.
Yet, they continue their trade, encreafe daily, and will probably animate
Albany to greater boldnefs and activity. New City contains about fixty
or feventy ftores or mops, and Troy fifty or fixty. Thefe new-fettled
merchants all profper, and their number is daily encrcafmg. The mer-
chants of Albany, it is reported, view this growing profperity of their
neighbours with an evil eye, and confider it as an encroachment upon
their native rights. If this be true, thejealoufy of the merchants of Al-
bany muft be the refult of their ignorance and confined views. The pro-
vinces, which contribute their produce to fupport this trade, are yet far
from having attained to the higheft degree of cultivation ; many parts,
equally proper for that purpofe, are but little cultivated ; and others yet
uncleared. Towns will be built ftill farther northwards than Troy and
New City ; others will be erected even on the wellern fide of the river,
while, at the fame time, the greater number of fettlements and encreaied
population, will augment the produce and wants, and every town, whe-
ther ancient or new, experience an increafe of bufmefs beyond what it
will be able to do.

Albany contains fix thoufand inhabitants, two thoufand of whom are
flaves, as the laws of the State of New York permit flavery. The old
houfes are built in the Dutch ftyle, with the gable-end to the ftreet ;
the pyramidal part riling in fteps, and terminating in a chimney deco-
rated with figures, or in fome iron puppets. All the buildings, which
have been erected within thefe laft ten years, are conftru&ed of bricks
in the Englim ftyle, wide and large.

The revenue of the city amounts to about thirty-five thoufand dollars
a year. It pofleiTes a great quantity of land in the neighbouring country,
and alfo fells the quays on the river at two dollars and half per foot, and
a ground-rent of one milling, which is irredeemable. This revenue
is partly owing to the economy of the adminiftrators, who have hitherto
endeavoured rather to enrich the city than to embellifh it, and render it
more convenient. The fenate is, at prefent, compofed of young men,
who promife to take care of thefe articles. But, from the ignorance,

apathy.

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 3? I

apathy, and antiquated ideas, which prevail in this city, it is much to be
apprehended, left the refults of their exertions fhould prove but very
trifling for a long time to come. I almoft incline to think, that young
people here are old born.

A bank, which was inftituted here four years ago, promotes the trade
of Albany ; it confifts of fix hundred fhares of four hundred dollars each,
only half of which have hitherto be,en paid. The yearly dividend is nine
per cent, betides what is deducted for the expence of the building in
which the bank is kept.

There is in Albany a Dutch Lutheran church of a Gothic and very
peculiar conftrudlion ; the Epifcopalians, Prefbyterians, German Protef-
tants, and Methodifts, poilefs alib churches in this town.

The price of land, in the vicinity of Albany, is from fixty-three to
feventy-five dollars per acre. Some lands near the river are frill dearer.
Thefe are remarkably good ; but thofe, which are fituated more back-
wards, are but of a middling quality. Agriculture is not attended to
with peculiar care ; the farms lie half in grafs and half in corn. No
country had ever ftronger incitements to perfect its agriculture and in-
duftry ; for none was ever furnifhed with outlets more fate and lefs ex-
penfive.

Some manufactories have been eftablifhed at a fmall diftance from the
town, among which is a glafs-houfe, in which both window glafs and
bottles are made. The former is pretty fmooth, and the manufactory is
carried on with much activity. Mr.CALDHOWELL poiTeffes alfo near the
town extenfive works, where tobacco, muftard, ftarch, and cocoa-mills,
are turned by water, and even every acceflbry labour is performed by the
aid of water machinery*. The tobacco-mill is the moft important part
of thefe works ; about one hundred and fifty thoufand pounds are yearly

* Thefe valuable works, which are decidedly fuperior to any of the kind in America,
are fituated one mile north of the city, in the fuburbs. The ingenious proprietor, whofe
true name is JAMES CALDWELL, has obtained a patent for the invention of the water
machinery, which is truly admirable. Tranjlator.

3 B 2 manu-

372 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

manufactured. Laft fummer (July 17Q4) a complete fet of fimilar
works having been confumed by fire, Mr. Caldwell's friends immediately
opened a loan of twenty thoufand pounds at the bank, and the legiila-
tive body of New York refolved alfo laft feffion to affift him with a fum
of the fame amount. I am to add in honour of Mr. Caldwell, with whom
I am not acquainted, that nearly all the labouring people in the city,
m confequence of this unfortunate accident, fubfcribed feveral days'
labour, as a voluntary contribution to the re-conftruction of thefe works,
which are truly grand and beautiful. They give employment and fub-
fntence to fifty perfons, fome of whom receive one hundred dollars a
year ; children, nine years old, can earn from fix fhillings to one dollar a
week. Tan-yards, corn, oil, paper, and fulling-mills, have alfo been
erected in the furrounding country ; and labourers are found in abun-
dance. The 'wages of common day-labourers amount to four millings and
fix-pence a day, and to feven millings in harveft.

Hofpitality to ftrangers feems not to be a prominent feature in the cha-
racter of the inhabitants of Albany; the few, with whom we got acquainted/,
looked extremely dull and melancholy. They live retired in their houfes
with their wives, who fometimes are pretty, but rather auk ward in their
manners ; and with whom their hufbands fcarcely exchange thirty words
a day, although they never addrcfs them but with the introductory appel-
lation of " my love." Exceptions, undoubtedly, exifh in regard to the
charms of the ladies, as well as to the conduct and converfation of the
hufbands ; but, it is aflerted, they are very few.

The Schuylers and RemTelaers are the moft rcfpectable families ia
point of wealth and intcreft : having intermarried with each other,
. their influence is altogether irrefiflible in the county. The Schuylers are
endowed with more talents and knowledge ; but the RemTclaers poiTels
more riches ; and money is a powerful fpring in the management of a
Hate. General Schuyler bears the character of a man of much acutenefs,.
and uncommon abilities. He is frequently employed in ftate affairs ;
and it is his earneft wifh, to promote and raife the navigation, induftry,
and profperity of his country. He is father-in-law to the celebrated Mr.

Hamilton.

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LlANCOUfcT. 373

Hamilton. General Schuyler, who generally accommodates his daugh-
ters with rich hufbands, gave one of them in marriage, five years ago,
to that famous orator, from refpect for his talents, though he w r as poor.
I mould not omit obfcrving, that I fpeak of General Schuyler without
having ever feen him. During my refidence in Albany he had gone to
affift at the negotiation with the Indians ; I merely know him from
his correfpondence with me, \vhich is highly polite and elegant.
The General ranks among the moft confidcrable men in the United
States*

I have fcen JOHN SCHUYLER, the eldcffc fonofthe General; fora
few minutes I had already convcrfed with him at Skenectady, and was
now with him at Saratoga. The journey to this place was extremely
painful, on account of the fcorching heat, but Saratoga is a townfhip of
too great importance to be paffed by unobferved. If you love the Englifh,
are fond of converging with them, and live with them on terms of fami-
liarity and friendmip, it is no bad thing, if occafionally you can fay to
them, " / have feen Saratoga"

Yes, I have feen this truly memorable place, which may be considered
as the fpot, where the independence of America was fealed ; for the
events, which induced Great Britain to acknowledge that independence,
were obvioufty confequences of the capture of General Burgoyne, and
would in all probability never have happened without it. The dwelling*-
houfe of John Schuyler ftands exactly on the fpot, where this important
occurrence took place. Fim-creek, which flows clofe to the houfe,
formed the line of defence of the camp of the Englim General, which
was formed on an eminence, a quarter of a mile from the dwelling.
The Englim camp was alfo entirely furrounded with a mound of earth,
to ftrengthen its defence. In the rear of the camp the German troops
were polled by divifions on a commanding height, communicating with
the eminence on which General Burgoyne was encamped. The right
wing of the German corps had a communication with the left wing of

the

3/4 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

the Englim, and the left extended towards the river. General GATES
was encamped on the other fide of the creek, at the diftance of an eighth
of a mile from General Burgoyne ; his right wing flretched towards the
plain ; but he endeavoured to ihelter his troops, as much as poflible, from
the enemy's fire, until he rcfolvcd to form the attack. General NELSON,
at the head of the American militia, occupied the heights on the other
fide of the river, and engaged the attention of the left wing of the
Englilh, while other American corps obfervecf the movements of the
right wing. In this pofition, General Burgoyne furrendered his army ;
his provision was nearly confumed, but he was amply fupplied
w r ith artillery and ammunition. The fpot remains exactly, as it then
was, excepting the fole circumibmce, that the bullies, which were cut
down in front of the two armies, are fince grown up again. Not the
leaft alteration has taken place fince that time ; the entrenchments ftill
exift ; nay, the foot-path is {till feen, on which the adjutant of General
Gates proceeded to the Englim General with the ultimatum of the Ame-.
rican commander ; the fpot, on which the council of war was held by the
Englim officers, remains unaltered. You fee the way, by which the
Englim column, after it had been joined by the Germans, filed off by
the left to lay down their arms within an ancient fort, which was con-
ilru&ed in the war under the reign of Queen Ann ; you fee the place,
where this unfortunate army was neceffitated to ford the creek, in order
to reach the road to Albany, and to march along the front of the Ame-
rican army; you fee the fpot, where General Burgoyne furrendered up
his fword to General Gates ; where the man, who two months before
had threatened all the rebels, their parents, their wives, and their chil-
dren with pillage, facking, firing, and fcalping, if they did not join the
Englim banners, was compelled to bend Britim pride under the yoke of
thefe rebels, and where he underwent the twofold humiliation, as a mi-
nifterial agent of the Englim government, to fubmit to the dictates of
revolted fubjccls, and as commanding general of difciplined regular
troops, to furrender up his army to a multitude of half- armed and half-
clothed peafants. To fuftain fo fevere a misfortune, and not to die with

delpair,

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 3/5

defpair, exceeds not, it feems, therefore, the ftrength of man. This me-
morable fpot lies in a corner of the court-yard of John Schuyler ; he was.
then a youth, twelve years old, and placed on an eminence, at the foot
of which flood General Gates, and near which the American army was
drawn up, to fee their difarmed enemies pafs by. His eftate includes all
the tract of ground, on which both armies were encamped, and he knows,
as it were, their every flop. Ho\v happy muft an American feel in the
poifeflion of fuch property, if his bofom be any wife fufceptible of warm
feelings ! It is a matter of aftonimment, that neither Congrefs nor the
Legiflature of New York mould have creeled a monument on this fpot,
reciting in plain terms this glorious event, and thus calling it to the re-
collection of all, who mould pafs this way, to keep alive the fciitiments of
intrepidity and courage, and the fenfe of glory, which for the benefit of
America mould long be handed dow r n among Americans from generation
to generation. The Englim would not .have furTered a fimilar occafion.
to pafs unimproved. John Schuyler at leafh mould have relieved the
modelty of government, were it only by marking the fpot with a plain,
fimple ftone, which no American would behold but with thofe brave and
glorious feelings, which might be turned to the greateft advantage to the
ftate.

John Schuyler pofTefTes an cftate of about fifteen hundred acres, five
hundred of which are completely cleared of wood. The land near the
river is excellent, and coils from thirty to thirty-eight dollars the acre ;,
the price of that, which lies more remote, is from ten to twelve dollars.
The produce confifts in grain, chiefly Indian corn,. He poflefTes one

corn- mill and two faw-mills, which are turned by the ftream of the

* _

creek. In this creek, which is very wide, and contains plenty of water,
are feveral falls, lying behind one another, which might turn works of
any extent. John Schuyler makes more hay, than is neceiTary for the
ufe of his farm ; but by a calculation, founded on indolence rather than
mature deliberation, it appears to him more profitable to fell the hay, than
to fatten cattle. Although pofleffed of three mills and fifteen hundred
acres of land, yet the aggregate amount of his quota of taxes, poor and

county-

370 TRAVELS 1ST NORTH AMERICA,

county-rates, exceeds not thirty-five dollars a-year. The county-rates,
comprifes this year the expence for building a court 4ioufe and a jail. 1
cite this inftance, as it may ferve to enable a perfon to form a judgment
on the amount of taxes in the flate of New York, of which I mall, no
doubt, find an opportunity of fpeaking more fully.

John Schuyler received me in a manner extremely hofpitable and po-
lite. He is a young man of good fenfe, and mild, amiable manners, con-
ftantly engaged in the management of his affairs, which, we understood,
he conduces with prudence and punctuality. He is married to a daughter
of Mr. RcmTelaer, who pailes all her time at their own houic, which is a
very handfome manfion, but without any neighbours. She fees no com-
pany, but her relations, who now and then pay her a viiit. Her hufband,
on whom me doats, is frequently abient ; Hie complains with much
rneekncfs of this folitary life, yet bears it, occupied with her children and
the management of her houfehold. She is charitable, good, and uni-
i_ verfally refpected.

Labourers may be procured here in great abundance ; their wages arc
three millings a day, if they be wanted ; but the ufual daily labour is
performed by negroes, who are very numerous, fo that there is fcarcely
a houfe without one or two of them ; John Schuyler keeps leven. The
negroes, it is generally aflerted, enjoy more happinefs, as flavcs, than if
they were free. This might be the cafe, if liberty were beftowed on
them, without their knowing what to do with it. But upon the whole,
inch maxims of morality fall with an ill-grace from the lips of a free
people. The negroes, it is true, are kindly ufed in the flate of New
York ; but it is alfo true, that the convenience of having them conitantly
at hand for any work fet apart, the labour of white people is lefs expen-
five, than that of negroes. To keep flaves is, therefore, a bad Ailem,
even in this point of view.

When I took leave of young Schuyler, he was indifpofed with the
fever. Having made the fame tour as we, he became an additional
vic"lim to the contagious air, breathed in the pelHlential country,
which we have traverfed. I learned afterwards at Bofton, with the ut-

moft

BY THE DUKE DE LA IlOCHEFOUCAtTLT LIANCOURT. 377

moft concern, that he is fmce dead. The youngefh brother of Mr,
Ilenflelacr was alfo feized with a fit of the fever, as well as another in-
habitant of Albany, who travelled in our company. All the people, who
were on board our veflel, are Tick, and one of them is dead. We have,
therefore, but little reafon to extol the comforts of a tour on Wood-creek.
The banks of the northern branch of the Hudfon, from Saratoga to
Albany, have been long fettled, and the country, lying more back-
wards, is alfo confiderably peopled from five to thirty miles from the
more. Connecticut and all New England people thefe fettlerncnts. The
land, to fpeak of it in general, is good, and eftates of five hundred
acres of cultivated land are not rare along the river. I have feen many
of this fort ; the farms were chiefly defigned for the rearing and fattening
of cattle ; they are managed but very indifferently ; the land received little
or no dung, and was ploughed only three or four inches deep. Eftates
generally confift here of two hundred acres. The whole of the banks of
the northern branch of the river is truly pleafant; the mountains, which
bound the ftream, without contracting its channel, are almoft through-
out covered with luxuriant corn-fields. It was through thefe narrow
pailcs, that General Burgoyne proceeded to Albany, where he hoped to
be joined by General Clinton ; this is the only road which leads thither.
Here he encountered General Gates, who, after he had been defeated and
fuftained a confiderable lofs, retreated into the camp at Saratoga, leaving
behind his whole train of heavy ordnance. I have feen the field of battle,
where this important action took place, and viewed the height, where Bri-
gadier-General FRASER made fo many gallant attempts to break in upon
the Americans ; I have feen the hillock, under which he is buried. The
inhabitants mow with confcious pride every corner of this diftricl:, and you
difcern in their countenance, that their ancient energy and vigour would
eafily be raifed by any preffing emergency. This action happened at
Stillwater. It was here Burgoyne refolved upon his decifive retreat.
But under the appellation of Stillwater, as under that of Saratoga, a
large extent of country is comprifed. The townfhip of Stiilwater is

3 C twenty,

378 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

twenty, and that of Saratoga thirty -one miles in length, and yet every
point of thefe townmips is called Still water and Saratoga.

I have omitted to flate, that the county of Saratoga contains many na-
tural curiofities, among which are cryflallizations of peculiar beauty, and
two medicinal fprings, know 7 n by the name of the Balltown and Saratoga
fprings. Both are in great repute, efpecially the medicinal waters of
Balltown, where the accommodations in point of lodging and other con-
veniencies far exceed thofe of Saratoga. The fprings are both impreg-
nated with faed air, and, in the opinion of fome perfons, communicate
with each other. The Saratoga waters, as is aflerted, are ftronger than
the Balltown fprings.

I muft not pafs over in filence Juftice THOMPSON, who refides at
Stillwater. We met with his eldeft fon, who intends to become a fur-
veyor, and made the laft paflage with Mr. Vanallen, on board the veflels
in which we returned from Ofwego, and travelled in his company. I
had promifed him not to pafs his houfe, without paying him a mort
vifit ; I fulfilled this promife, and was invited by the family in fo plain
and frank a manner to flop for the night, that I could not give a denial.
The family are good, plain, and genteel people, of mild, pure, and uncor-
rupted manners ; a refidence with them is extremely pleafant. Juftice
Thompfon pofTefTes a great quantity of land in different parts of the flate
of New York, which for the molt part is yet uncleared. He inhabits an
eflate of one hundred and fifty acres, one hundred and twenty of which
are under cultivation ; he rears a great many cattle, efpecially mules,
which, when tw r o years old, he fells to Connecticut traders for fifty or
fixty dollars a head. He alfo rears many horfes, and carries on with
them a trade of tolerable importance, which the Albany merchants have
not yet learned to improve. In thefe parts, it is aflerted, two thoufand
mules are yearly fold. I have this information from 'Squire POLL, an
opulent farmer, for the exaclnefs of which, however, I cannot pledge my-
felf ; for there are not four perfons in this county, able to draw up ac-
counts and eflimates of the general produce and fupplies of a diflricl:.

Good

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 37Q

Good wifhes for the fuccefs of the French, a deteftation of their crimes,
and decided hatred againft the Englifh, form here the univerfal fenti-
ments, as they do in general throughout the United States.

The land near the river is good, and yields, however badly it is culti-
vated, from twenty to thirty bufhels of wheat per acre. The price of
land is from fifty to feventy-five dollars an acre. I am now travelling
here on the fifteenth of Auguft, and yet little hay has been houfed, for
which rcafon it is moftly as hard as wood.

On my journey to Saratoga I had paffed the new bridge, conftructed
acrofs the Mohawk-river. This bridge is erecled on the fpot, where the
Cohoez-falls appear to the greateft advantage.* But the river contains
not at prefent fufficient water to iupport the falls. In many places the
rocks are quite dry ; but in others they afford a fine profpecl. The per-
pendicular height of the falls may amount to about fifty feet, and the
river is about an eighth of a mile in width. But upon the whole, the
view is not ftrikingly wild, romantic, or pleafant, though the falls are
much celebrated throughout America. The bridge is constructed of
timber, and refts on ftone pillars, about twenty-five or thirty feet diftant
from each other. The mafonry is not remarkable for folidity or neat-
nefs ; but the carpenters' -work is exceedingly well done.f

On my return from Saratoga I crofled the northern branch of the Mo-
hawk river by Halfmoon, to fee the two new towns, New City and
Troy, which, as has already been obferved, were built a few years ago,
and are already carrying on a confiderable trade. The houfes arc very
neat and numerous ; almoft every houfe contains a Ihop ; the inns arc
excellent ; veiTels are moored near all the keys ; tan-yards, potafh- works,
rope-walks, and mills, are either already in full work, or building. The
fight of this activity is truly charming. A Mr. TAYLOR, who poiTefles

* The Cohoez-falls, which the author mifnames Xohos-fall, appear moft romantic-
ally from Lanfinburgh-hill, five miles eaft of them, although they likewife offer a good
profpeft, when viewed from this bridge. Tranflaior..

f The bridge is eleven hundred feet long, twenty-four feet wide, refts on thirteen
piers, and was erefted in 1794, at the expence of twelve thoufand dollars. Tranjlator.

3 C 2 about

380 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

about one hundred acres near Ponftenkil- creek, has creeled here two
grift-mills, two few-mills, and one paper-mill. He does bufinefs, it is
faid, with New York by water. The place is finely fituated, well diftri-
buted, and may, if managed with {kill and prudence, become very profit-
able. We were told, that the proprietor intends to fell it ; and this is
one of the places which I would buy in preference to all others, if I had
any idea of fettling in America, and had wherewithal to pay for it. There
are a variety ot things, with which a man may occupy himfelf every day,
nay every moment of the day, with benefit to himfelf and the country
at large.

The land between Saratoga and Albany is upon the whole fandy ;
efpecially the* hills about Saratoga confift of an indurated fand. The
ftoney matter, on which lies the ftratum of fand, is flate of a dark colour,
and coarfe grain, with veins of white quartz. On fragments of this flate
impreffions are found of a peculiar and very curious appearance. In the
vicinity of the medicinal fprings of Balltown and Saratoga are feveral
veins of lime-ftone. Ferruginous and cupreous pyrites are alfo found in
the neighbourhood ; mines of thefe minerals, it is afferted, exift in the
environs, but they are yet neglected, as in facl are nearly all the mines
in the United States. You meet with few or no rocks, until you reach
the Cohoez-falls. The rocks, which form this cataracl, confift of an argil-
laceous fchiftus, fome of which may eafily be reduced to powder, white
other parts are harder, have a conchoidal fracture, and refemble bafalt.
Near the falls are feveral veins of feldtfpar of a reddifh colour.

Between thefe falls and Albany, the foil of the mountains confiit of
indurated clay ; the ftones, which are found there, are a ipecies of flate.
In the intervening fpace between the mountains and the prefent bed of
the river was an uninterrupted chain of fmall fand-hills, rifmg on both
fides of the river, nearly at equal diilanccs from the fhore, and which un-
doubtedly are the remains of the ancient bed of the river, after it had
formed the prefent channel.

In the townfhip of Saratoga you find the laft plane-trees, acacias and
white cedars, for thefe trees do not grow more northwards. The red cedar,

Virginia

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 381

Virginia cedar, and poplar of Carolina, you firft meet with at the cata-
racts of the Mohawk river. Several miles around the medicinal fprings
of Balltown and Saratoga you find only white pines, fmall fickly oak-
trees, and fern.

>hkfcUf!t^tttak' , .

THE TREATY OF COMMERCE.

Since we left the Englim dominions, and have reached the territory of
the United States, we have found, that the treaty of commerce, con-
cluded between Great Britain and America, forms the univerfal topic of
converfation, and the principal fubjecfl of difcuffion. in the newfpapers.
I mall not prefume to decide, whether the majority of the inhabitants
be for or againft it ; but this I know, that the number of non-contents
is fufficiently corifiderable, to render the friends of peace uneafy on this
fubjecl:. I am not yet acquainted with America in a fufficient degree,
nor have I yet ftudied this treaty with the neceflary attention, to form
a correct judgment on its advantages, and probable refults. Yet I ihall
record in this journal the impreffion, which it made upon me at fiiil view,
were it only for the purpofe of reviewing my opinion again, when time
ihall have decided on its merits.

. In my judgment, it is extremely prejudicial to America; the mutual
relations of the contracting parties are not perfectly poifed, and the com-
mercial intereft of the United States is in many refpecls injured. More
ancient treaties with France are clearly violated by this treaty ; and it
evidently dallies with the repeated profeifions of friendfhip, which Ame-
rica has fo loudly and repeatedly made to France, even under the San-
guinary reign of Robefpicrre. America cannot but be aware of the un-
favourable fentiments, nay hatred and ill-will, which the Eiigliili govern-
ment entertains toward the Union. Thefe fentiments will remain unal-
terably the fame, as long as the principles of the Britiih miniilry mall be
unchanged. England will ever confider the inhabitants of the United
States as revolted fubjccls, who muft be punifhed for their independence,
if they cannot again be fubjected to the Englim yoke ; and though Great
Britain condefcends at prefent to enter into temporary ncgociations

with

382 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

with America, it is becaufe her prefent fituation allows her not to wage
war againft the Union, and becaufe fhe hopes to derive fignal advantages
from a treaty, which cannot but confiderably encreafe the fale of her ma-
nufactures, difpieafe France, alienate her from America, and injure her
trade. She hopes, by means of this rupture, to render America depen-
dent on the Englilh government, and in this ftate of dependence to force
her to conclude another alliance ; a defign, perfectly anfwering the fenti-
ments, which Great Britain has constantly manifested fmce the peace of
1783. The truth of thefe obfervations is obvious to all, who are ac-
quainted with the policy of the cabinet of St. James's, and mult be more
Strikingly fo to him, who has lived, for any length of time, with the Bri-
tiih agents in America, who take not even the trouble of concealing it,
To conclude a treaty of amity on fuch a foundation, is to deceive Ame-
rica ; as it clearly prefumes, that fhe muft break off all her former coiir
neclions with France, her true and natural ally,* who, as foon as fhe
fhall have obtained a regular, fettled government (at prefent the obvi r
pus aim of the generality of the French people), will become more
powerful than ever. Should it be America's fecret intention, to break off
the former connexion with France on the firfr. favourable opportunity,
fuch a defign would not only be the refult of an erroneous, miftakcn po-
licy, but would alfo prove a breach of the principles of duty and grati-
tude, which, however they may be defpifed by the cabinets of kings,
fhould never be difregarded by an infant people, in the management of
public affairs, and the conclufion of alliances and treaties.

One of the greateft pleafures, I hoped to enjoy on my journey to Al-

* The tranflator was lately aflured by an American gentleman, acquainted with the
author, that it is his moil anxious wifli, to make his peace with the Directory. It is, no
doubt, from this motive, that proceed the virulent, unfupported animadversions on the
Britifh cabinet, which, the tranflator is forry to obferve, difgrace the interefting narrative
of the Duke's Travels, and which in no place of this work betray their origin in a more
conipicuous manner than in this paffage, where he charges the Englifh government with
deluding America into a treaty, the beneficial refults of which fhe foon experienced,
when Ihe faw her trade protected by Englifh convoys from the unprovoked piracies of
her true and natural ally. Tranfl.

bany,

BY THE DUKE DE LA KOCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

bany, was to fee Mr. and Madame de GOUVERNET, and to fpend a few
days with them. They were not at home on my arrival, but at New
York, whence, however, they were expecled back every day. As Du-
petitthouars's ftatc of health rendered it neceflary to continue longer in
Albany, than we fhould otherwife have done, we determined to wait the
return of Mr. Gouvernet, who at length arrived on the evening of the
day, beyond which I could not conveniently defer my departure. Yet I
now refolved to flop twenty-four hours longer, to fpend them in their
company.

If you poffefs a correct idea of a handfome Parifian lady, who with a
fine figure unites all the charms of a well-formed mind, and, of confe-
quencc, poifeiTes ample means for conquefl, and then fee this handfome
young woman on a fmall eflate of about one hundred acres, managing
herfelf the moil trifling concerns of her houfehold, with an air of fim-
plicity and fcrenity, which would warrant a belief, that ihe is pleafed
with this ftrange mode of life ; you cannot but confider it as an addi-
tional ground, to praife and admire the female character in general, and
efpecially that of French women. In the courfe of this dreadful revolu-
tion, females have difplayed more courage, more attachment to their
duty, and more conflancy in their fentiments, than has ever been evinced
on fimilar occafions. They have infpirited the courage of their huf-
baiids, who, but for their fupport, might have funk under their misfor-
tunes. They have foothed their fufferings. Under the fevereft trials
they have Ihewn as much of energy and virtue, as they difplayed of ele-
gant and entertaining manners in happier times. Thefe obfervations ap-
ply to a great number of French ladies, at whofe head {lands Madame
de Gouvernet ; her hufband being indebted to her for the prefervation
of his life, for his efcape from France, and for what little money he has
faved. It is to her he owes his prefent happinefs, and the fortitude,
courage, and fatisfaclion he mariifefls in regard to a mode of life,
equally foreign to his tafte and habits. They refide five miles from Al-
bany on a fmall eftate, which they have purchafed for fifteen thoufand
livres French money. The land is not of the bell quality, but it may

384 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

be converted into very good -meadows, and thus anfwer their well-con-
ceived project of rearing and fattening cattle, and keeping a good dairy,
until they fliall be able to return to France. They lead a folitary life,
without any company but that of a young man, who followed them on
their emigration from France, who joins in their labours, and mares in
their fociety. In this refpect they derive but little benefit from the vici-
nity of Albany. The circumftance, that moft of the inhabitants of rank
are ignorant of the very exiftence of Madame de Gouvernet in their
neighbourhood ; and ftill more the indifference, manifefted by thoie,
who are acquainted w T ith the uncommon merits of this diftinguifhed
couple ; form the ftrongeft evidence againft the hofpitality of the in-
habitants of Albany.

Some French families refide in the town and its vicinity; that of
Mr. LE COUTEUX a highly interefting name is the only one, whofe
acquaintance I wimed to obtain. They who are acquainted with this
family, know that it has long been diftinguifhed for rectitude and talents,
as well as for a confummate knowledge and punctuality in commercial
tranfactions ; qualities, which have been, as it were, hereditary in it.
Mr. Couteux of Albany is, by the unanimous teftimony of all, who
have had any dealings with him, worthy of his name. His ideas,
as well as expreffions, carry fome air of peculiarity ; but he is good,
obliging, honeft, and univerfally refpected. He is engaged in partner-
fhip with Mr. QUESNEL, a merchant of St. Domingo ; this houfe is
again connected with the firm of OLIVE in New York, and through
this, it is aflerted, with the great and refpeclable houfe LE COUTEUX in
France.

POTASH-WORKS.

Potam, forming a confiderable branch of the trade of Albany, as well
as of other American cities, the back country of which has been lately
cleared, I mall here infert fuch information as I have collected on the
manner of preparing this fait, which is generally obferved in the United
States. This alcaline fait is extracted from common ames, after they

have

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 385

have been previously purified from all heterogeneous matter. It is ob-
tained by folution and evaporation. Large tubs, with a double bottom,
are filled with allies ; the uppermoft bottom, which contains feveral
holes, is covered with afhes, about ten or eleven inches deep, while the
under part of the tub is filled with flraw or hay. Water, being poured
over the afhes, extracts the particles of fait, and difcharges all the hetero-
geneous matter which it may yet contain on the layer of hay or flraw.
The lie is drawn off by means of a cock, and if it mould not yet have
attained a fufficient degree of flrength, poured again over the afhes.. The
lie is deemed fufficiently ffcrong when an egg fwims on it. This lie is
afterwards boiled in large iron cauldrons, which are conftantly filled out
of other cauldrons, in which lie is likewife boiling. If the lie begin to
thicken in the cauldron, no frefh lie is added, but the fire is well fed
with fuel, until all the aqueous particles are feparated, and the whole is
completely infpnTated and indurated. This fait is of a black colour, and
called black potajli. Some manufacturers leave the potafh in this ftate
in the cauldron, and encreafe the fire, by means of which the oil is dif-
engaged from the fait in a thick fmoke, and the black potalh aflumes a
grey colour, in which ftate it is packed up in barrels for fale.

The procefs of preparing the potafh requires more or lefs time, accord-
ing to the quality of the alhes and the lie, and to the degree of Strength
of the latter ; the medium time is twenty- four hours. The afhes of
green-wood, and especially of oak, are preferred. No potafh can be pre-
pared from the allies of refmous trees ; and afhes, which are five or fix
months old, are better than thofe that are new.

Some manufacturers ufe only one cauldron for boiling, which they fill
with cold lie, as it comes from the tubs ; and others put the fait, as foon
as it begins to coagulate, into fmaller cauldrons, to complete the cryflal-
lization.

In many parts of the State of New York, efpecially in the North, and
in the vicinity of Albany, the inhabitants, who fell the wood, prepare
the potafh. But there are alfo large manufactories, where from thirty to
forty tubs are uied for preparing the lie, and from ten to twelve caul-

3 D drons

38() TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

drons for its evaporation. The manufacturers buy the allies from private
families. The tubs and cauldrons are of different fizes in proportion to
the greater or lefs extent of the manufactory. By a general eftimate
from five to fix hundred bulhels of afhes yield a ton of potam.

The barrels, in which the potam is packed up, mufh be made of white
oak, or if this cannot be had, of wood, which is but little porous. The
ftaves ought to be far more durable than for calks, in which other dry
goods are packed ; the hoops alfo muft be more numerous ; for the leaft
fiflure would expofe the potam to humidity, to the air, and, confe-
quently, to deliquefcence and dhTolution. Inllances have occurred, when
barrels, badly made and hooped, and which had been filled with potafh,
were foon after found to be half empty.

Pearlam is potafli purified by calcination. To this end the potafh is put
into a kiln, conftructed in an oval form, of plafter of Paris ; the infide
of which being made other wife perfectly clofe, is horizontally interfered
by an iron grate, on which the potafh is placed. Under this grate a fire is
made, and the heat, reverberated by the arched upper part of the kiln,
compleats the calcination, and converts the potaili into pearlafh ; which
is taken out of the kiln, and, when completely cooled, packed in barrels.
The procefs of calcination lafts about an hour. Pearlam is proportion-
ately more heavy than potam, on account of its greater compactnefs ; and
the lofs of weight, experienced by the latter through the calcination, is
very trifling. Although pearlafh is lefs liable to deliquate by the air than
potafh, yet the barrels, in which it is packed, are of the fame fort and
flructure as thofe in which the latter fait is barrelled. They are of dif-
ferent fizes, and contain from two to three hundred pounds. Potafh as
well as pearlam are fold by tons in the courfe of trade ; and it is not law-
ful to export either before it is duly infpccted by the public fearchers,
who are appointed for this purpofe in all the flates, where pearl or potalh
is manufactured.

Dupetitthouars's flrength having been confiderably impaired by his ill-
nefs, he thought it prudent to return home. I parted from him with
the utmoft concern. To travel alone is extremely unpleafant, and more

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 387

lb when you are indifpofcd. I had yefterday a ik of the ague, which I.
preiumc is the beginning of a tertian fever. I was feized with it at
Mr. DE LA TOUR DU PIN'S. But, neverthelefs, I will proceed to Bof-
ton, where I expect to find letters from Europe, which I much defire to
fee. For theie laft three months I have not heard a word from any of
my friends or relations.

DEPARTURE FROM ALBANY.

I was by no means difpleafed at leaving Albany. Young Mr. Renf-
felacr and Mr. Henry are the only gentlemen, from whom I experienced
any civilities. The Albanians, to fpeak generally, are a fet of people
remarkable neither for activity nor politenefs ; they are the moft dif-
agreeable beings, I have hitherto met with, in the United States. In
every other refpecl Albany is a place w r here, with a fmall capital, you
may make money, and with a large capital acquire great wealth. The
trade of this place fuits any amount of property, and is attended with lefs
rifk than any other fpecies of commerce carried on in this part of the
globe. An induftrious and enterprifmg man might improve the trade of
this place to a very confiderable degree.

We experienced here this day, Friday the 7th of Auguft, an uncom-
mon heat. My thermometer Hood at ninety-fix degrees of Fahrenheit,
or twenty-eight four-ninths of Reaumur. We were told, that the ther-
mometer of Mr. Lewis, who is efteemed here a very accurate meteor-
ologift, flood at one hundred degrees of Fahrenheit or thirty two-ninths
of Reaumur. This exceffive heat continued feveral days, and was not
the leaft allayed in the night.

My horfe, which was to be fent after me by Captain Williamfon, was
not yet arrived. I took, therefore, a feat in the ftage waggon, that is,
a waggon without fprings, but covered. You crofs Hudfon's River on
leaving Albany. The road to Lebanon, where we Hopped for the night,
lies over a mountainous country. Nearly the whole of the diftricl: is jn
the firft ftage of fettlcment. All the land, within an extent of twenty-

3 D 2 five

388 TRAVELS IN" NOFxTH AMERICA,

Eve miles, belongs to Mr. Van ReniTelaer, Lieutenant-governor, and one
of the richeft proprietors in the State of New York, perhaps in all the
States of the Union. Much of this land was granted to his ancestors by
letters-patent, at the time when the Dutch fettlement was formed. He
has alfo purchafed much more. A confiderable part of this eftate has
been fold; but he fells none without referving a ground-rent. This
forms, no doubt, a very pleafant fort of income ; but which, in my opi-
nion, cannot be of long duration in this country. A man, who is obliged
to pay every year a ground-rent, foon forgets the moderate terms on.
which he obtained poffeffion of his eftate, feels only the unpleafant com-
pulfion of paying money at a fixed time, and eagerly feizes upon the
firft opportunity of freeing himfelf from this incumbrance. An aged
Quaker-woman, who did not fpcak a word, but w^ent no farther than
Philipftown, and a Mr. MAC-ELROY, were my companions in the ftage.
The latter is a land-holder in Pennfylvania, on the Delaware, without
any bufmefs or trade. He refides on his eftate, when he is not travelling
for his amufement, and is unmarried. His fifter manages his houfehold.
He pofleffes a confiderable quantity of land, efpecially on Fiili Creek, in
the diftricl of Mr. Schreiber. He feems to be a worthy man, but is con-
ftantly dull and morofe.

The fever, which feized me near Philipftown, prevented me from col-
lecting the information, which I might have otherwife been able to pro-
cure, at the different places where the ftage flopped. What little intel-
ligence I have been able to gather is, that the medium price of land is
here from five to eight dollars an acre. The laft place, before you reach
Lebanon, is Stephentown, fituated on a fine large creek. It belongs to
the Patron : this is the general appellation of Mr. RemTelaer, at Albany,
as well as in its environs. The face of the country is fad and melancholy j,
it is mountainous and rocky, and bears no trees but hemlock-fir and white
pine. On the road from Stephentown to Lebanon, the country ex-
pands into an amphitheatre, formed by numerous mountains of various
fize and fliape, moft of which lie in grafs up to the very fummits. At

' the-

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 3SQ

the end of a very circuitous journey through this vale you reach the inn
of Mr. STOW.

Lebanon pofleiTes a mineral fpring, clofe to which {lands the inn of
Mr. Stow, on the declivity of a mountain ; rnoft of the invalides, who
drink the waters, board therefore at the inn. From this point the prof-
peel of the vale, or rather of the low grounds, is moft pleafing. A num-
ber of fmall houfes, fcattered over the fields, and feveral villages, enhance
the charms of this delightful view, which, on my arrival at the inn, I
was too indifpofed to enjoy. I was obliged to creep into my bed, although
it was fcarcely five o'clock, to fuftain my fit of the ague, to take an
emetic, and to renounce whatever remarkable objecls this place itfelf, or
its vicinity, may contain.

SHAKERS.

In America, or at leaft in fome States of the Union, no ftages are fuf-
fered to travel on Sundays ; this is the cafe in the State of New York.
Mr. MAC-LROY and myfelf fpcnt, therefore, the morning in vifiting
the fociety called Shakers, who have formed a fettlement, three or four
miles from the inn. Had I not been indifpofed the preceding evening,
I fhould have feeathem at work, and, by means of my continual queries,
might have obtained fome accurate information concerning their origin,
their regulation, the mode of hufbanding and distributing the common
wealth of the fociety, the manner of purchafmg eftates, of recruiting and
preferring the fociety, and efpecially on its prefent ftate. We were now
obliged to content ourfelves with viewing their villages, the infide of their
houfes, their gardens, and their religious worfhip, without any guide, and
to reft fatisfied with what intelligence we could obtain from our land-
lord and another man, who laid that he was well acquainted with the
fociety.

As to their form of government, the fociety is a republic, governed in
a defpotic manner. All the members work for the benefit of the fociety,
which fupplies them in clothes and victuals, under the direction of the
Chief Elder, whom they elecl, and whofe power is unlimited. Subordi-
nate

TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

nate to him are infpeftors of all clailes, invefted wit!? different degrees of
authority. The accounts reach him in a certain regular order and grada-
tion ; and in the fame manner are his orders carried into effect. It
would be high treafon to addrefs the Chief Elder himfelf, unlefs the ad-
dreifcr belongs to a clafs which enjoys this privilege ; in any other cafe
this offence is feverely punifhed, or cenfured, if it be committed by a
ftranger, ignorant of this law. Marriage is prohibited in this fociety,
which is recruited merely by profelytes, who are, however, far lefs nu-
merous at prefent, than eighty years ago, when they firft fettled in this
country. Married men and women are admitted into the fociety, on
condition that they renounce each other. They frequently bring their
children with them, who in this cafe become a common property of the
fociety. It fometimes happens, that, in fpite of the prohibition, the fleih
will have its way ; but, in fuch cafes, a fevere, exemplary, and corporal,
punifhment is inflicted on the offenders ; and this punifhment is not
mitigated, if they .effect their -efcape to join in lawful wedlock, for, on
their being apprehended, they are punifhed with the fame feverity, as if
they were not married. Although the members of this fociety do not
hind themfelves by vows, yet, in clofe adherence to their tenets, men
and women live in feparate apartments, though in the fame houfe. The
village contains four fuch houfes ; all the other buildings are ftores or
ihops, in which all forts of trade and manufactures are carried on. They
make cloth, gauze, moes, faddles, whips, nails, cabinet-work, in fhort,
ever article which is fure to find a ready market. They fell their com-
modities either here or in the neighbouring towns. The women per-
form fuch bufmefs as is generally allotted to their fex.

This frame of fociety has attained, it mould feem, a high degree of
perfection. The emulation among the members is uncommonly great,
and the fociety poffeifes confiderable property, the amount of which is,
however, known to none but the Chief Elder. The Shakers are an
honeft, good natured, fet of people ; they perform their engagements
with the utmoft punctuality, are excellent neighbours, faithful workmen,
and very moderate in their prices. This is the whole, ftock of informa-
tion

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 3Q1

tion which I have been able to collect on the abfurdities and peculiarities
of the Shakers.

In regard to the form of their religious worfhip, I can fpeak from my own
obfervation. On our arrival they were already aflembled in the place where
they held their meeting. This is a hall, about feventy feet in length by
forty-five or fifty in breadth, with eighteen windows, by which light and a
free circulation of air is procured. At each end of the hall is a fire-place ;
benches are placed all along the walls, and fome on the right of the fire-
place. The doors, by which the men and women enter the hall, are in
one of the long fides. The infide is overlaid with plaiftcr of Paris ; the
ornaments of wood, and window-frames, are painted light-blue, and the
benches red. Whoever could find room, fat down ; and the reft, by far
the greateft part, were ftanding. The Chief Elder was feated nearly in
the centre, on a bench oppofite the door, and a place between the two
doors was affigned to our party. The moft profound filence was ob-
ferved. The men were drefTed in a blue coat, black waiftcoat, and pan-
taloons of blue and white fpotted cloth. The women wore a long white
gown, a blue petticoat, an apron of the fame cloth of which the men's
pantaloons were made, a large, fquare, well plaited handkerchief, and a
plain cap, tied under the chin, fuch as the portereiTes of nunneries are
accuftomed to wear. The hair of the men is combed ftraight down ;
the hats were all hung on nails. When a man or woman is tired of fit-
ting, or wimes to make room for another member, they get up, and their
feat is occupied by others. Every eye is fixed on the ground ; every head
is bent downward ; and ftupidity is the characlicriftic feature of every
face. The women hold in their hand a blue and white handkerchief,
and they flood all, like the men, with their arms folded.

The firft acl: of divine fervice lafted nearly half an hour ; on a fignal
of the Chief Elder, all the members prefent arofe from their feats; and
men and women formed two diiUncl: rows oppofite to each other, in
form of a fan, the central point of which was occupied by the Chief
Elder, ftanding in the fame place, where he was feated before ; the rows
opened towards the corners of the hall, and their pofition was ftudied in

fuch

TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

fuch a degree, that they were long deliberating on the place, where they
had to put their feet, before they began to move. After a filence of fe-
veral minutes obi rived in the fame pofition, during which the hands and
faces of many of the members were ftrongly convulfed, and their knees and
legs fhook and trembled, the chief made another fignal, without which
nothing is done. They fell all on their knees, and arofe again a few
minutes after. The Chief Elder now commenced a chaunt, in which
both the nofe and throat bore an equal fhare, and which was confined
within the compafs of four deep notes ; no words could be diflinguifhed.
The whole meeting repeated the chaunt ; and again ceafed, on a fignal
from the Chief Elder. After a fhort filence, arid upon another fignal, the
pofition was changed. Men and women, who are conftantly feparate,
drew up in nine or ten ranks, facing the chief elder, by whofe fide two
or three men and as many women, the elders of the fociety, had taken
their feats. The troop of women w r as disjoined from that of the men
by a fmall interval of one or two paces. I have omitted mentioning,
that the men, previoufly to their drawing up in rank and file, pulled off
their coats, which they hung up by their hats, and appeared in their fhirt-
ileeves, tied with a black riband. The w r omen changed, not their drefs.
The Chief Elder commenced another chaunt, much the fame as the for-
mer, accompanied by the elders, and the firft part fung by the women,
which rendered it tolerably melodious. This chaunt was no iboner be-
gun, than the whole affembly ftarted into a fort of dance, made a fpring
and a bow forwards, a fpring and a bow to the right, a fpring and a bow
backwards, a fpring and a bow to the left, twelve iprings and twelve bows
forwards, and then began the fame motions again, until the Chief Elder
ceafed to fmg, which is the fignal of filence for the elders, and of immo-
bility for the dancing members. The courtefies both of the men and
women confrft in a genuflection ; the, head is bent downward?, the arms
are open, and the feet advance with a fort of light caper. The women
make the fame courtefies as the men, but they glide along rather than
caper. All thefe motions are made to the tune, with a precillon and ex-
actnefs, which would do honour to the beft difciplined regiment. When

this

PY THE DUKE DE LA. ROCHKPOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 3$3

this ceremony is over, they firft refume their former pofition in rows,
and afterwards their feats near the walls. The Chief Elder at times ut-
ters a few words, but they are unintelligible to a ftranger. When all
thefe different fcenes have been acted, two women appear, each furnifhed
with a broom, and fweep firft the place occupied by the men> who draw
up in clofe order, to make room for the f weepers, and then that occupied
by the W6men, which being done, the fame courtefies, chaunts and ca-
pers recommence again. The whole fervice lafted about three hours.
I had armed myfelf with a fufficient fhare of patience, to wait the clofe
of the ccrmony, in hopes, that I mould be able to converfe either with
the Chief Elder, or another member of the fociety ; but in this I was dif-
appointed. Upon a fignal from the Chief Elder the meeting was broken
up ; the members took their hats and flicks, moved off two and two : and
the Chief Elder followed, conducted by one of the Elders. The women,
after having covered their flat cap with a hat equally flat, went out of the
hall by a feparate door, and brought up the rear, at an equal ftep, and their
arms folded.

We w r ere told, that they were going to dinner, but could not learn
any farther particulars. On Sundays no ftrangers obtain admittance to
their garden ; we could only view it over the railings, and found, that it
was large, beautiful, and kept in good order. All the culinary plants,
which are not wanted for their own coniumption, moot up into feed, of
which they fell confidcrable quantities. All their railings and doors are
painted with as much care, as in the befh kept Englifh garden. The for-
mer run along the flreets, to feparate them from the houfes. Neat little
pofts, painted with equal care, mark the foot-way. The whole forms the
neateft, prettieft, and moft pleafant fight, I ever faw. I repeat it once
more, that what little I have feen of this fociety is fufficient to con-
vince me, that with the utmoft abfurdity in point of religious principles
and worfhip, the Shakers unite much order, activity and good fenfe in
their bufinefs, and uncommon abilities in the management of their affairs.

Among the fitters were fome very handfome girls, but the major part
\vere rather advanced in years. The number of young men is compara-

3 E tively,

3Q4 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

tively much greater. This fociety, which has nothing in common with
the Friends or Quakers, was tranfplanted, twenty-two years ago, from
England to America. The firft and principal fettlement was formed
in 1//4, at Nifqueunia, in the ftate of New York, a few miles above
Albany ; iince that time, one or two more have been inftituted. The
chief leader of the feel is a woman ; the firft was one ANN LECOQ, who,
it is reported, had been kept by an Englifh officer. She died in 1784,
and was fucceeded bv -mother, elected by the feel, from an opinion, that,
like her predeceflRrpChe is infallible and allied with the Deity ; me refides
in Nifqueunia. The chief elders are her deputies and fubftitutes in the
different fettlements.

The medicinal waters of Lebanon fpring in a tolerable quantity behind
the inn of Mr. Stow, and are collected in a bafon, fix cubic feet in
extent, for the convenience of the drinkers. At the extremity of the ba-
fon ftands a miferable hut, which contains the bath, filled by means of
one cock, and emptied by another. About one hundred paces below
the bath, the fame waters turn a grift-mill with two courfes. Their
ufe is prefcribed in almoft all diftempers ; whether they be of any feryice,
I know not, but they feemingly enjoy lefs celebrity, than the medicinal
fprings of Balltown and Saratoga, and in point of tafte differ not in the.
leaft from common water. From the great number of bubbles, that
are constantly rifing from the bottom to the furface, the Lebanon wa-
ters appear to be impregnated with fixed air. Dr. CRAIG, of Bofton,
the proprietor of this fpring, is to erecl, next year, the neceflary buildings
for the accommodation of the valetudinarians, who repair to this place
for the ufe of the waters.

The price of land is here, according to its variations of quality, from
fix to twenty-five dollars an acre. Mr. Stow, as well as his whole fa-
mily, nurfed me with the utmoft care, during my illnefs.

The ftages being permitted to fet out as foon as the afternoon's fervice
is over, we proceeded on our journey to Pittsfield, which you generally
reach the firft day of your departure from Albany, unlefs it be a Sunday.
On the fummit of Hancock-mountain, to which you turn on leav-
ing

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOtTRT. 3Q5

ing the low grounds, the boundary of New York joins that of MafTa-
chufctts. The country on the other fide of the mountain widens into a
more open profpecl, although fome fmall eminences continue yet in
view, which are cultivated and adorned with houfes. You fee Pittsfield
ve or fix miles before you reach it.

It is a fmail neat town, built about twenty-five years ago. The houfes
are moilly of joiner's work, large and handfbme ; the price both of land
and labour is much the fame as in Lebanon, but the currency is of a dif-
ferent ftandard. A dollar is here worth fix Shillings. Pittsfield lies in
the county of Berkfhire, which contains about thirty thoufand inhabi-
tants.

. Being much weakened by my yefterday's fit of the ague, and expect-
ing another fit this morning, I lay down as fbon as I arrived. My reft
was however interrupted by a love-fcene, acled in the pafTage, by Mr.
Mac-Elroy and a niece of the landlord, a tall, buxom lafs with fine eyes.
" Give me a kifs, my dear do, give me a kifs," I heard a whole hour
together. I congratulated my travelling companion the next morning
on his amorous adventure, which, however, had been confined to the
moft tender and ardent kifles on both fides ; any thing more having been
conftantly refufed. I relate this trifling anecdote, as it may ferve to give
an idea of American manners. Adventures of this delcription are faid
to be very common, without the leaft difparagement to the honour of
the amorous lafles, although at times they are carried fomewhat farther.

Having arrived yeftcrday in a covered cart, we were promifed a better
carriage for this day's journey ; and yet this better carriage confifted in
an open cart. On confidering that I was to fuftain my fit of the ague in
this cart, I could not but find it extremely inconvenient ; but the law of
neceffity fuperfedcs all deliberation. I was at confiderable pains to ob-
tain a little hay, on which I might reft ; and thus making with the cold
fit of the ague, and broiled by the fcorching fun, 1 paiTed over the Green
Mountains, a wild, rocky trad: of country, but cultivated up to the fum-
mit of the mountains ; a fcene, which frequently recalled to my mind
the profpecls of Switzerland, and efpecially the mountains' in the Pays

2 E 2 de

oyti TIlAVEtS IN NORTH AMERICA,

de Vaud. The road lies over a chain of rocks. Midway from North-
ampton our cart flopped. Utterly unable to proceed any farther, I lay
down to fuftain my fit of the ague, and continued in bed two hours.
Through the companion of the driver, we obtained here a covered poft-
coach, fufpended upon iprings, and thus reached at length Northampton,
a neat town, fituated in a pleafant country, and containing many hand-
fome and convenient houfes, among which is an inn, fcarcely equalled
by any other in America. The building is fpacious and neat, the apart-
ments are well diftributed, the family confifts of well-bred people, and the
articles of provifion are good and in abundance. The fituation of North-
ampton is extremely pleafant. The banks of the Connecticut, on which the
town is feated, offer a delightful profpecl:, and lie almofl entirely in grafs.
The houfes are well-built and neatly painted. The number of the in-
habitants amounts to fixteen hundred. It is the capital of the county of
Hampihire, in the {late of MarTachufetts. The town carries on fome
trifling trade with Hartford, to which it tranfmits, in veffels, the produce
of the furrounding country. Great numbers of cattle are fattened in the
county, which contains about fixty thoufand inhabitants.

MarTachufetts is as much cultivated as France. I certainly did not pafs
through the moft fertile part of this ftate, it being covered with ftones and
rocks, and yet it is throughout cultivated. The houfes lie clofe to each
other, and ftand in the midit of the fields and farms to which they belong.
They are extremely well built, confift of joiner's w r ork, and are very neatly
painted white. The {tables and barns are painted red. Nearly all the
fences are made of {tones collected from the fields. The harveft is com-
pletely houfed, and the farmers are bufied in mowing the after- crop of
grafs. Six or feven mow r ers are at work in the fame meadow. This
carries an appearance of activity and prosperity, which is extremely pleaf-
ing, and keeps alive the remembrance of Europe. Numbers of horfes
ate feen in the fields, which, however, are not remarkable for beauty.
The cattle are of a fine breed, and all the pafture-grounds are covered
with them.

Onleaving Northampton, you crois the beautiful river Connecticut.

The

BY THE DUKE DE LA KOCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 3Q7

The banks, being well- wooded, and doping gently towards the bed of the
ftream, fecure the country from inundation. While croffing the river,
1 learned, that vefTels of fifteen or twenty tons burthen fail fifty miles
farther up the river, and that fhips can come up as far as within forty
miles of Northampton. We halted in Belly town, where the New
York road meets that of Albany. Our travelling party had this morning
already been encreafed by a dirty little boy, and was now augmented by
the pafTengers, who arrived in the New York ftage, and by two other
travellers, a Mr. WILLIAMSON, a land-holder of Georgia and pleafant
companion, but a violent partizan of the Anti-federalift party ; and a
young man of New York, whofe name I did not learn. Continually the
fame fort of land, but better roads as far as Spencer, where the two wag-
goners of the old and new Bofton roads waited our arrival, to try to pre-
vail upon us, each in his turn, to give the preference to his road. I was
determined to choofe that, which the others mould not. I wanted fur-
ther reft and convenience, as I had not paffed the day, on which I wa.=
free from the fever, quite fo well as the firft.

THE FAMILY OF WILLIAMS.

We made our arrangements in fuch manner, that four perfons only
obtained feats in our ftage-coach ; I procured a back feat. In Worcester
three ladies joined our party, who, on perceiving my fickly appearance,
would not accept my feat. But, notwithftanding their politenefs, and
in fpitc of my firm determination to bear up as long as pomble, I was
obliged to flop at Marl borough. Unable to endure any longer the jolt-
ing of the coach, I w r as neceffitated to entreat my travelling companions
to fet me down at an inn, where I was certain of an opportunity of pur-
fuing my journey in the mail-coach. And well had I done to flop here,
for 1 was no fooner in bed, than I was feized with a very violent fit of
illnefs, in addition to the ague. Although exceffively ill, I was fenfible
of my dreadful fituation, being thus laid on a bed of flcknefs among peo-
ple who had never feen me before ; and this idea threw me into an agi-
tation of mind, which bordered on defpair. But, fortunately the family,

TRAVELS IX NORTH AMERICA,

in whofc houfc I had Hopped, were the bed people in the world. Both
men and women took as much care of me, as if I had been their own child.
Efpecially the women, young and old for the family is very numerous
nurfed me with the utmoft folicitude and attention. Having obferved,
that I was attacked by a diarrhoea, which lafted two days, and was pro-
bably the erTecl: of heat upon an emaciated conftitution, they infifced up-
on fending for a phyfician. I was obliged to yield to their remon-
ftrances ; the phyfician came ; and, as he could not poffibly leave me
without prcfcribing fomething, he gave me pills. I was under the ne-
ceffity of continuing four days longer in this houie, where I experienced
the beft treatment ; and which, from my uncommon weaknefs, I was
not able to leave. I had there another fit of the fever, which rendered
me delirious, and afforded me additional grounds to praifc this excellent
family.

Their name is WILLIAMS. The great grandfather of the Williams,
who at prefent keeps the inn, arrived here with the firft fettlcrs from
England, and, which is peculiarly remarkable, built the houfe which is
now inhabited by his great grandfon. The room, which I occupied, has
not fmce that time undergone the leaft alteration ; all the defcendants of
the firft Williams, the prefent landlord included, were born in this room.
The brothers of the landlord, the fifters of his wife, their children, and
his own, live all together, and form one family.

Befide the inn, which being much frequented cannot but yield a con-
fiderable profit, Williams polTefTes an eftate of two hundred acres, nearly
three-fourths of which are under cultivation, or, to fpeak more properly,
lie in grafs, which is the general cuftom in Mafiachufetts. Meadows,
which are mowed very early, yield a fecond crop, and produce from two
to three tons of hay per acre. Such land as does not lie in grafs is fown
with Indian corn. They alfo fow T a little oats and barley, but no more
than is neceffary for the feed of the horfes and the confumption of the
inn. The prejudice in favour of Indian corn is deeply rooted in this,
country; but the ftate of agriculture is, upon the whole, far better here
than in any part of America, which I have hitherto traverfed. The dung

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

is carefully preferred, and even the ftreet-dirt is made ufe of as a manure,
and in fpring laid on the fields. Agriculture is not fb well underflood
here as in England ; but they think of the moft proper means of carrying
it to a higher degree of perfection, and converfe on agricultural improve-
ments with good fenfe and judgment. Cattle are here in great abund-
ance, and of a very fine breed. Bofton offers a certain and ready mar-
ket for all the productions which can be fent thither. The breed of
pigs is remarkably fine ; they grow uncommonly fat. Day-labourers
may be procured in great abundance ; their wages are four millings and
fixpence a day, or from ten to twelve dollars a month.

This part of America difplays in every refpecl: true European indufhy.
In every village the ftreets along the road are lined with mops. Cabinet-
makers, flioe-makers, faddlers, coach-makers, and tanners, are very nu-
merous. My friend Williams was not fufficiently verfed in the political
economy of the country to inform me of the exact proportion of the taxes
and other public burthens. All he was able to tell me on this fubj eft-
was, that the aggregate fum of his afleflments, taxes, county and parim
rates included, amounts yearly to about forty dollars, befides four dollars
and half for his licence to keep the inn. Doctor COTTY, a furgeon, who
attended me, and pofTefTes an eflate of eighty acres, pays no more than
twenty dollars. He is alfo a very worthy man, whom 1 have every rea-
fon to praife.

All thefe people bufy themferves much with politics, and from ths
landlord down to the houfe-maid they all read two newspapers a day.
Mr. Williams and Dr. Cotty are by 110 means friendly to the treaty, be
caufe they do not like the Englifh, and contend that no reliance can bo
placed on that nation. But they fay, at the fame time, that it mufl all
be left to the Prefident, who will make every thing right.. I muft repeat
it once more, that I cannot beftow too much praife on the kindnefs of
thefe excellent people. Being a ftranger, utterly unacquainted with
them, fick, and appearing in the garb of mediocrity, bordering on indi-
gence, I pofTefTed not the leaft claim on the hofpitality of this refpectable.
family, but fuch as their own kindnefs and humanity could fuggeft ;.. and

yet,

4CO TK.AVEL3 IN SORTH AMERICA,

ye-t, during the live days I continued in their houfe, they neglecied their
own bufincfs to nurfe me with the tendereft care and unwearied folici-
tude. They heightened ftill more the generofity of their conduct by
making up their account in a manner fo extremely reasonable, that three
times its a'lioim t would not have been too much for the trouble I had
caufed th em. May this refpeclable family ever enjoy the bleffmgs which
they fo well deferve ! This mall be my conftant, fervent wifh until my
lail moment.

Having at length recovered fomewhat more fbength, to bear the fa-
tigue of a journey, and being defirous of reaching Bofton, as foon as pof-
iible, as I hoped to find fome letters in that city, I took a feat in the mail-
coach, which ftops at Williams's houfe. It is the fame fort of carriage
as a ftage-coach, except that it is lighter, better fufpended, and takes but
fix paiTengers, its chief defoliation being to carry the mail. I had fcarcely
proceeded three or four miles, when we were met by a coach and four.
It was General KNOX, who, during a temporary residence in Bofton, on
account of private bufmefs, having accidentally learned, that I lay ill at
Marlborough, came to take me to Bofton. My fatisfaction and grati-
tude for this uncommon kindnefs may be eafdy conceived. I had fre-
quently feen him at Philadelphia, in the courfe of laft winter, ; had often
been at his houfe, which I found extremely pleafant ; but had not the
leaft right to expecT; fuch a diftinguifhed acl: of kindnefs. I was too weak
to exprefs my feelings, but was the more overwhelmed by them. /

The road from Marlborough to Bofton is a continual village. Twenty
miles from this city begins an uninterrupted line of handfome houfes,
cleanly and pleafant buildings, neat gardens, and fine orchards, which
form all together a rich and delightful proipecl:, the charms of which are
{till more enhanced by numberlefs horfes, cattle, and fheep, which enliven
the landfcape, and are flickered from the fcorching fun by clumps of
trees, planted for that purpofe. You fee every where numerous churches,
of a fimple conftruction, but neatly painted, and furniihed with fine
fpires. They are furrounded with open ftables, in which the country-
people put up their horfes during the fervice. This is a pretty general

cuftom

BY THE DUKE T>E LA ROCIIEFOUCAULT LlANCOURT.

Cuftom throughout America, unknown in Europe, but which is more
carefully attended to in Maflachufetts, the moft opulent and populous of
thefe ftates I have hitherto feen.

At laft you pafs through the handfome village of Cambridge, and reach
Bofton by a wooden bridge, which was finimed laft year, and which, in-
cluding the caufeway leading to it, is a mile in length. This bridge was
conftructed at the expence of a company, who receive a toll, . which
yields nearly twenty per cent intereft on the capital fpent in building the
bridge. I was too much indifpofcd fully to enjoy the view of this de-
lightful country, which reminds a man of England on many accounts,
but was not altogether infenfible to its charms.

BOSTON.

The towns, which are moft populous, moft ancient, and moft flouriming
in point of trade and induftry, and which on thefe grounds intereft moft
the curiofity of foreigners, are exactly thofe on which a traveller has leaft
to remark. All the obfervations, which he might make in regard to them,
have been anticipated by others, and he will frequently wafte his talents
in repeating, with lefs accuracy, what hiftoriographers, gazetteers, nay
directories, have faid before him. This is exactly the cafe with Bofton.
Dr. Morfe's American Geography, and a variety of directories, publimed
in that town, give a more minute, and probably a more exact account of
it, than all the information which the moft active foreigner can collect in
the fpace of fix months. I mall, therefore, forbear entering into any de-
tails, which would be ulelefs, and which my friends may eaiily procure.

The town of Bofton is fituated on a peninfula. The ifthmus, which
connects it with the continent, is but a few yards in breadth, fo that it
might eafily be cut through, mould the fafety of the place demand it.
Bofton is fo completely girt by the fea, that the fhorteft bridge, by which
you can reach it, is a third of a mile in length.

The harbour is four or five miles in depth, of a ftill greater breadth,
and interfperfed with numerous iflands, which form a more pleafing
profpect from none of them being perfectly flat and level.

3 F Several

402 TRAVELS IX NORTH AMERICA,

Several of thefe iflands are fituated at the entrance of the harbour,
which from one fide to the other may be five miles in breadth, but the
navigable part of which is fcarcely half a mile wide. The paflage be-
tween moft of thefe iflands is inacceffible for mips of more than two hun-
dred tons burthen. The only channel, paffable for mips of a larger fize,
lies between two iflands, one of which is called Caftle Ifland, and the
other Governor's liland, half a mile diftant from each other. This chan-
nel is ftill more narrowed by a third of it only having fufficient depth
of water, efpecially for mips of a deep draught, which are obliged to
fleer along Caftle Ifland at the diftance of two hundred yards from the
land. If thefe iflands were fortified in fuch a manner, as to be able
to cannonade mips with effedl long before they could draw near, and
even after they had reached the port, the town of Bofton would be moft
powerfully protected from any attack, that might be made on it.

General Knox, who but very lately refigned the place of Secretary at
War, told me, that not only are plans drawn up and approved of for
creeling thefe fortifications, but that Congrefs has alfo refolved to bear
the expence, eftimated at one hundred thoufand dollars, forty thoufand
of which were already granted two years ago, that the work might imme-
diately be commenced ; but that the legiflature of the State of Maflachu-
fetts oppofes the execution of this plan.

As many of my readers may be at a lofs to conceive the pombi-
lity of fuch an oppofition to the refolution of the Congrefs, and to
the pofitive orders of the Prefident, I think it neceflary to explain this
matter.

If a place is to be fortified by the Union, the State, in the territory of
which it is feated, muft previoufly cede it to the Union, which takes it un-
der its immediate protection, and the ceffion of the above iflands has hither-
to met W 7 ith fo ftrong an oppofition on the part of the legiflature, that it
has not yet been poflible to obtain it. The true caufe of this oppofition is
the general aversion of the States againft fubjecling any part of their ter-
ritory to the fupremacy of the Union, and the pretence alleged in the
cafe under confideration is, that Caftle Ifland is the only fafe place for

convicts,

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 403

convicts, who are kept here to hard labour, and who cannot be lent to
any other place equally fate and convenient.

The legiflative power has, however, made the propofal of fortifying
this ifland, without ceding it to the Union. Sixty foldicrs, paid by the
iiate, form the garrifon of this ifland, which violates the fpirit as well as
the letter of the conilitutional act, enacting, in exprefs terms, " that in
time of peace no fmgle Hate mall maintain any regular troops."

The anti-federalift party are charged as being the chief authors and
abettors of the above oppofition ; but it does not appear, that the op-
pofers belong all to that party. Their number, it is aflerted, begins now
to decreafe, and the whole fenate is favourably difpofed for the fortifica-
tion, fo that it probably will foon be commenced.

In this probable manner, the otherwife inconceivable opposition to
the joint will of the Congrefs and Prefident, in a matter of fo much im-
portance, has been explained to me.

All the inhabitants, with whom I have converfed on the prefling ne-
ceffity of creeling thefe fortifications, manifeiled a fort of indifference,
for which I can only account from their attention being entirely engrofTed
by their private affairs. If you obferve to them " That the Englifh, in the
prefent ftate of things, may eafily run three or four frigates into the har-
bour, burn all the Shipping, fet the houfes on fire, and retreat without the
leaft danger" they grant all this, but add, " The Englilh will not come ;
we have no war, and mall w r age none ; we have nothing to fear." They
feem to forget, that the fpirit of revenge againft revolted fubjects con-
ftantly animates Great Britain ; which will never confider the Americans
but in that light ; though circumftances may force the Englifh cabinet to
enter into public negociations with the United States, and that this fpirit
of revenge is peculiarly directed againft Bofton, where the revolution be-
gan in fo decifive a manner*. They feem not to confider, that the

wealth

* The futility of this reafoning precludes refutation, but it is a circumilance, worthy
of remark, that the Prefident of the Union, under whofe adminiftration the relations of
amity and friendihip between Great Britain and the United States have been fo fully
ilabJilhed, is the man who bore the moil confpicuous part in the decifive meafures which

3 F 2 commenced

404 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

wealth and importance of Bofton afford additional reafons for ftrengthen-
ing its means of defence, and that the importance of a ftate is encreafed
m the eftimation of its enemies, and of all foreign powers, in proportion
as it is rendered lefs vulnerable, by the adoption of the moft proper and
moft vigorous meafures of defence.

Thefe are all principles of acknowledged truth ; and thefe maxims fo
evidently apply to the United States, and efpecially to Bofton, that even
the circumftance of the attention of the inhabitants being entirely ab-
ibrbed by their private intereft falls fhort of fatisfaclorily explaining the
indifference, which they difplay in regard to fortifications, of the neceffity
of which they are perfectly aware.

The prefent ftate of Caflle liland, garrifoned by iixty armed foldiers,
and w r here on the ruins of an ancient rampart fifty pieces of cannon are
lying, moft of which are deftitute of trunnions, would be a matter of
fincere regret even for him, who ihould have the intereft of America and
the iLumiliation tif England lefs at heart, than I have.* I lament it moft
imcerely, inafmuch, as fetting apart the confideration of danger, it be-
ipcaks a degree of national indolence, which, I am forry to fay, is truly
difgraceful.

Governor's liland is ftill lefs fortified than Caftle liland ; a block-houfe.,
erected on an eminence, forms the only means of defence. Jn France
three hundred pieces of cannon would be mounted in thefe iilands, and
the moft pariimonious adminiftration would not repine at this expence,
to whatever fum it might amount.

The foldiers, who form the garrifon of Caftle liland, have a very dirty
and mean appearance, which does not feem to be an infeparable .attribute
of republican troops.

commenced the revolution at Bofton, the man who in BRISSOT'S judgment " has the ex-
cefs of republican virtues" and who of confequence muft be thoroughly convinced of the
wifdom of the political fyilem which he has purfued with unmakea firmnefs. Tra'njl.

* The candour, with which the author here points out the fource of his inve&ives
againft the Britifh government, and the origin of the farcailic cenfure, which on all oc
cafions he paffes on the Englifh cabinet, deferves much praife. He inveighs and cenr
4ures, becaufe he anxioufly deiires the humiliation of England. TranJJ.

The

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPGUCAULT LlANCOUKT. 405

Tile convicts of the flute of Mafiachufetts arc fcnt to this iiland, where
they are kept at hard labour. They are chiefly employed in making
nails and ihoes, and arc confined by day ; fo that in this re/peel their fate
is not worfe, than that of the garrifon. But no effectual meafures have
been adopted to improve their morals, or provide for their welfare at the
end of their imprifonment. The machinery, introduced into all other
nail-manufaclories of America, to fhorteii and eafe hard labour, are here
only excluded, fb that the convicts work to great difad vantage, if com-
pared with other workmen, and are not able to lay by any favings dur-
ing the time of their captivity, which they might ufcfully employ, when
reflored to the enjoyment of liberty. This heedleflhefs contrafls, in a
linking manner, with the admirable attention and order which prevail
in the prifons of Philadelphia, the excellent flate of which will furnifli
juft grounds of cenfure againfl all the other flates, as long as they imitate
not the laudable example of Pennfylvania.

The Englifh laws, called in England the common law, are obferved
in the flatc of MafTachufetts in regard to all fuch points as are not de-
cided in a different manner by a pofitive law, which is frequently the
cafe. Fathers pofTefs the right of difpofmg of their eflates by a lafb-will,
in its utmofl latitude, on condition of their leaving to every one of their
children fome part, however fmall, of their property. This right, which
prodigality, revenge, paternal difpleafure, and the imbecility oi old age,,,
would frequently abufe in our European flates, is here attended with no
inconvenience. " No father has yet made an ill ufe of it," anfwercd
they, with whom I remonftrated on the plenitude of this right, veftccL
in-the teflator. This anfwer, worthy of Spartans, has> however, .not con-
vinced me, that the manners of the inhabitants of Maflachufetts are as
remote from an ill ufe of unlimited power> as thofe of the Spartans were
from parricide at the time of Lycurgus ; nor has it. reconciled me to a
law, which, at leafl in fome meafure, is unjuft.

The penal code is compofed of Englifh laws, fomewhat mitigated.
Mr. SULLIVAN, Attorney- General of the flate, takes peculiar care, that
juflice is adminiflered with mercy; he is a zealous partizan, it feems,

of.

400 TKAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

of the criminal law of Pennsylvania, and is now engaged in endeavours to
get it adopted by the legislature of MaflachuSetts.

The State levies a tax for the fupport of government, amounting to
forty thoufand pounds Sterling, or one hundred and fifty-three thouland
three hundred and thirty-three dollars. The- quota of each contributing
inhabitant towards this tax, as well as the county and parilh-ratcs, is very
trifling, though more confiderable than in the States of New York and
Pennsylvania. Property, both perfoual and real, is taxed ; and fuch parts
of it, as are not evident, are rated by commiiTioncrs, againft whom bitter
complaints are preferred at Bofton, relative to the arbitrary manner, in
which they frequently proceed. Thele grievances, it feems, are not alto-
gether unfounded. No recourfe can be had againft an unjuft valuation
on the part of the commiffioners, as, in order to obtain redreSs, the com-
plainants would be obliged to difclofe the real amount of their property ;
which, as they are generally men of great wealth, unjuStly taxed from
motives of jealoufy and envy, they wifh to avoid. Several of them have
left Bofton, and fettled in other ftates or towns, where they enjoy Security
from arbitrary proceedings of this kind. Mr. BRECK of Philadelphia left
Bofton on this account, and Mr. THOMAS RUSSEL, a merchant, gene-
rally reSpected in America, intends, it is aflerted, to fettle in Charleftown,
a fmall town, Separated from Bofton only by a bridge. His aiiefTment,
under the Sole head of capitation or poll-tax, amounted to fifteen hun-
dred dollars.

Out of the parifh-rates, among other articles, the Schools are Supported,
of which, according to the laws of the State, a certain number mull be
kept in each townfhip, proportionate to its extent and population. In
addition to thefe Schools, many colleges have been inftituted in this State,
which are Scattered through its w r hole extent, Sor the convenience of
thoSe who polTeSs Sufficient property, and wifh to purSue their ftudies be-
yond the instruction, which common Schools can afford. The Univerfity
at Cambridge offers alSo ample means Sor acquiring extenSive erudition.
This univerfity, which is modelled aSter the Englifh univerfities, has pro-
ferTorihips Sor every branch of the Sciences. It poiTelTes a fine library, a

tolerably

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHRFOUCAULT LIANCOUR.T. 407

tolerably complete philofophical apparatus, and a mufeum, which is yet
rather incomplete, but will, no doubt, foon be improved. The whole
in&ni&ion is apparently managed on very good principles. The funds,
affigned for its fupport, not being fufficiently confiderable to inftrucl: the
fcholars grails, they are obliged to pay quarterly the moderate fum of
fixtcen dollars. They alfo pay fix dollars a month for their board, and
are admitted after a previous examination by the profeflbrs. They re-
main here four years ; if they dcfire to continue longer, for the purpofe
of taking a degree, they pay no longer the above fixteen dollars, but
merely for their lodgings. Mr. WILLARD, prefident of the univerfity,
from whom I learned thefe particulars, is a man of uncommon merit,
verfed in all the fciences, wilich are taught here.

The town of Bofton, feated on two or three eminences, and in the
fmall intervening vales, is but of little compafs. It has no regular ftreets,
but is neverthelefs very pleafant. The houfes are neat and cleanly ; a
great number have gardens adjoining to them, and all afford delightful
profpects. The manners of the inhabitants are mild and hofpitable ;
.they are much like the Englim.

The opulent inhabitants have, moft of them, country-feats at fome
difhmce from the town, where they refide in fummer. A foreigner eafily
obtains an extenfivc acquaintance, and is everywhere invited, in a man>-
ner fo extremely obliging, as to preclude all doubts of the fincerrty of the
invitation. My ftate of health, which was but ilowly recovering, pre-
vented me from accepting the invitations I received.

I muft mention in this place, that in the vicinity of Bofton I found
again Mr. Adams, Vice-Prefident of the United States, a man of fuch un-
common merits, abilities, and talents, that he -has few equals in Ame-
rica, and is not everywhere fufliciently efteemed. He is one of the moft
refpeclable men in the United States. No one contributed more to the
American revolution, from the beginning to the end, than he. The
agents of the Britiih. miniftry entertain, therefore, much ill-will againft
him, although he has defended the Englifh conftitution in a book, full
of profound refearches, which he entitled " A Defence of the Govern-
ment

40S TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

mcnt of the United States." John Adams refides with his lady, remote
from all intrigues, in a fmall houfe, fifteen miles from Bofton, which no
Paris advocate of the loweft rank would choofe for his country-feat.
Here he fpends all the time, which his fituation as Vice-prefldent allows
him to pafs from Philadelphia, in reading, and agricultural employments.
He fees but little company, fmce the very moderate fortune he poileffes
prevents him from receiving many vifitors at his houfe. He is generally
refpected ; his converfation is extremely agreeable, and tinged with a fort
of farcaftic, yet courteous wit, which renders it highly pleafmg.

The treaty with England is the conftant and univerfal topic ; it is dif-
cuffed pro et contra, from one extremity of the ftates to the other. My
opinion on this treaty is not altered from its having received the fanclion
of the President. I admire his letter to the felect-men of Bofton ; in his
pofition it is impofTible to write any thing more beautiful, more noble, or
more glorious. I blame him not for having acceded to the opinion of
the Senate : purfuant to the conftitution, and in the prefent conjuncture
of circumftanoes, he was obliged to act as he has done. But, neverthelefs,
this treaty is, in my judgment, prejudicial to the commercial interefts of
America, which it renders, in fome meafure, dependent on Great Bri-
tain, and violates the duty and obligation of the United States, to afiift
France, their ally, with the necefTaries of war. It is a monument of the
weaknefs of America, to which it will prove productive of pernicious ra-
ther than advantageous confequences. The only momentary profit, to be
derived from this treaty, will accrue to American merchants, who can be
accommodated by the Englifh with long credit, and who in America,
as in fact in every other country, attend more zealouily to the interefts of
their counting-houfes, than to the political advantages of the ftate, which
they inhabit.

I have perufed every performance, written in favour of this treaty,
without my opinion having in the leaft been changed even by CAMILLES.
I poiTefs, I think, fufficient knowledge of the political principles of Mr.
Hamilton, to be convinced, that in this long and laborious enquiry he
has rather ferved his party, than* followed his own political opinion, and

that

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHKFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 4OQ

that, if he were freely to fpeak his mind, he would confefs his grief at
having publicly defended fuch a ftate-paper. This treaty agitates, heats,
and inflames the contending parties to fuch a degree, that you hardly
jneet anywhere with cool, moderate, and unimpaffioned reafoning, I fliall
fay no more on this fubjecl:, although I am far from having exhaufted my
arguments againft a treaty, which I confider as extremely unfortunate for
the tranquillity of the United States.

Bofton trades to all parts of the globe. The enterprifmg fpirit in point
of navigation, which the Americans are on all hands allowed to poflefs,
feems in a peculiar degree to animate the inhabitants of New England.
Although the trade of many ports in the ftate of Maflachufetts, north and
fouth of Bofton, has of late years confiderably encreafed ; and although
it is of the fame nature as that of Bofton, yet I have been aflured, that
the trade of this town, fo far from fuffering by it, has, on the contrary,
never been in a more flourishing condition, than it is at prefent. Seve-
ral gentlemen, having promifed to fupply me with comparative tables of
the exports and imports of Bofton, previously to my leaving this town,
I mall until then defer all calculation on this interefting fubjecl:.

Anxioufly defirous as I was of -collecting information relative to the
trade with the South-Sea Indians, and to the nature of the navigation ofT
their coaft, I could not but feel extremely happy at getting acquainted
with Captain ROBERT, who returned from this voyage but a fortnight
ago, and who has communicated to me fome particulars refpecling this
fubjecl:, which, I think, will not be deemed here out of place.

The objecl: of the mips, which are trading to the weftern coaft of
North America, is chiefly the purchafe of otter-ildns, which they barter
at Canton for Chinefe goods, either confumed in America, or thence
exported to Europe. The articles, which they fhip for the purpofe
of exchanging them for the otter-fkins, confift of iron, copper, to~
3>acco, filver trinkets, collars, &c. This voyage, which is generally
made from Bofton in ihips from ninety to two hundred and fifty tons
Imrthen, takes up from fixteen to eighteen months. But its duration is
frequently protracled, and its produce leffened by adverfe events ; which

3 G was

4 Id TKAVEtS IN NORTH AMERICA,

was the cafe with Captain Robert. He fpent three years and eigh*r
months in this voyage ; he loft twenty men out of thirty-fix, who com-
pofed his fhip's crew, and a fmall veffel, which he had caufed to be built
during his voyage, and which, he thought, might be advantageoufly ern^
ployed in this trade ; his own profit, as well as thofe of his owners, could
not, therefore, but be confiderably lefTened. By inferting here a brief ac-
count of his voyage, I mall communicate to my friends particulars, rela-
tive to the trade and navigation to the weftern coaft, which, I truft, they
will read with pleafure.

CAPTAIN ROBERT'S VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEA.

He failed from Bofton on the 2Qth of November, 1791, on board the
Jefferfon, of one hundred and fifty-two tuns burthen, mounting eight
guns, and manned with thirty- fix men. From want of provision, and
the neceffity of repairing fome damage, which his Ihip had fuftained in a
violent gale of wind, he found himfelf obliged to put into Valparaifo, a
Spanifh fettlement on the coaft of South America, in latitude thirty-
three degrees fouth, and longitude eighty-four degrees.* He remained
here a whole month, and failed hence up the Pacific Ocean, where on
the 5th of July he arrived off the Spaniih ifland of St. Ambrofe, which lies
in twenty-fix degrees thirteen minutes fouth latitude, and eighty degrees
fifty-five minutes weft longitude, from Greenwich. This ifland, which
has the appearance of having had volcanic eruptions, abounds with feals,
which lie on the rocks, and are eafily killed by the feamen, who frequently
kill from two to five hundred of them with bludgeons, in the courfe of
one morning. During the two months and a half the Captain continued
on this ifland, his crew collected and cured thirteen thoufand feal-fkins,
which are fold in China for fixty dollars a hundred. The oil, which is

* The author is mifinformed in regard to the fituation of Valparaifo. It lies in latitude
thirty-three degrees two minutes thirty-fix feconds fouth, and longitude feventy-feven de-
grees twenty-nine minutes weft, and has a harbour, which forms the port of St. Jago,
three hundred and ninety miles eaft of the iiland of Juan Fernandez. Tranfiator.

obtained

BY THE DUKE DE LA. ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 411

obtained in great quantity from this fifh, is given in exchange for otter-'
fkins, to the Indians of the weflern coafl, who drink it like rum. The
ifland of St. Ambrofe affording no anchorage, the fhips remain conftantly
under way, at a greater or lefs diftance from more, according to the
weather. The fliip's company fleep every night on board, and keep
up with boats fuch intercourfe with the ifland, as is requifite for their
fifliery.

On his departure from St. Ambrofe, Captain Robert ftood to the wefl-
ward, and made the Marquefas, or Marquefa iflands ; he put into the
ifland Woahoo,* which the Spaniards call St. Chriftiati, in latitude
nine degrees fifty-five minutes fouth, and longitude one hundred and
thirty-eight degrees weft. This ifland is inhabited by Indians, not of a
very dark complexion, and, by Captain Robert's account, of very fine
fhape and regular features. The heat of the climate rendering clothes
perfectly uielefs, they wear only a fmall apron, which they never put off.
On feftivals they drefs in a light ftuff, made of bark, and highly finifhed>
both in point of colour and texture. In this ifland Captain Robert built
a veffel of ninety tuns burthen, for the trade on the American coaft, the
chief materials for which he had brought with him. The four months
he continued at this ifland, he lived, upon the whole, on very friendly
terms with the Indians, great numbers of whom affilled him in his
work. But one day they fliewed a defign of feizing upon his veffel,
when it was half finifhed, A great number of thefe Indians, headed by
their king, manifefted fo clearly an intention of attempting an attack,
that Captain Robert was obliged to repel them by force. At the head
<of his thirty-fix men he frred upon the Indians, killed feveral of them,
wounded others, and routed them completely. On the next following
day they came to fue for peace, and brought fome of their wounded to be
cured.

* Woahoo being one of the Sandwich Iflands, the author has probably confounded
this name with Waitahu, the Indian name of the Marquefa Ifland, which by the Spa-
niards is called St. Chriftiana, and lies in latitude nine degrees fifty-five minutes thirty
feconds fouth, and longitude one hundred and thirty-nine degrees eight minutes forty fe*-
conds weft from Greenwich, Tranfiator.

3 G 2 The

412 TRAVELS IN NORTH" AMERICA,

The Indians are furnifhed neither with fire-arms nor bows ; their
weapons confift of poles of very hard wood, and long flings, by which
they thipw ftones, with great precifion of aim, to a considerable diffomce.

At another time the Indians of a neighbouring illand made up to
Captain Robert's fhip, lying at anchor in the road, with a fleet of
about twenty boats, ninety feet in length, to take her ; but a lucky mot
finking one of the boats, the reft retreated with the utmoft fpeed, and
never made their appearance again. Thefe Indians are, by Captain Ro-
bert's account, engaged in continual warfare with the inhabitants of
Waitahu, and offer their daughters, nay, fbmetimes their wives, to fo-
reigners, with whom they are on friendly terms. You may keep them
as long as you pleafe, and return them when you want them no longer.
The Indian ladies, fo far from objecting to this fort of civility, commence,
on the contrary, as early as the age of ten to do in this manner the ho-
nours of their ifland.

The Indian inhabitants of the Marquefas drink nothing but water, and
are not fond of fpirituous liquors. The king and chiefs of the ifland only
drink a beverage called hary, and prepared from a yellow root, which is
gathered by their flaves, and cut into pieces, which they chew, fpit into
large veffels filled with water, and afterwards fqueeze with their hands
to obtain the juice. This liquor, prepared in fo uncleanly a manner, is
held in very high eftimation by the Indian chiefs, who mix it with water;
lefs diluted it is taken againft the fcurvy. They alfo ufe it as a remedy
againft the renereal difeafe, which has become very frequent here, fince
the firft vifit of the Europeans, and with which the whole crew of the
JefFerfon were infedled.

The marriages among thefe Indians laft no longer than the wedded
couple choofes, and efpecially as long as it pleafes the hufbands, who afTert
great prerogatives over their wives, and never dine with them. Father,
mother, and children frequently live in the fame houfe, even when the
latter are married.

Befide the royal dignity, and that of the chiefs of the villages, which are
hereditary, there alfo cxifls form inequality among the families, all which

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCI1RPOUCAULT LIAKCOL'llT. 413

pay great refpecl to the king and chiefs. Property is known and rc-
fpecled in this ifland, and the number of Servants and Haves is propor-
tionate to the amount of a, man's property. Potatoes, nay, fugar-canes are
cultivated in this ifland. Thefts are feverely punifhed, and the punifh-
ment is determined by the chiefs. Fowls, which, however, are very
fcarce, and pigs, of the Chinefe breed, which are tolerably abundant, are
eaten roafted ; but fifli they cat raw. Both men and women are hand-
fome.

The new vefTel being finiflied, and manned with ten men, Captain
Robert fet fail for the Sandwich lilands. By his affertion, he difcovered,
on his paflage thither, a clufter of iflands, never mentioned before by any
other navigator, and fituated in latitude eight degrees forty minutes fouth,
and longitude one hundred and forty degrees weft. He circumnavigated
them without going on more, called the whole group Wafhington, and
named fome of the iflands, Adams, Jefferfon, Hamilton, &c.

Captain Ingraham, mafter of the fhip Hope, of Bofton, faw thefe
iflands laft year, but he merely faw them, and noted their bearings.* By
Captain Robert's account, he found in one of thefe iflands, called by the
Indians Novheva, which he named Adams' Ifland, an old man, feventy-
five years of age, who had been there a great many years. This old man
was born in Oohoona, which Captain Robert named Maflachufetts Ifland.
Having coafted along the fliores of fome of them, he failed for Owhyhee,
the largeft of the Sandwich Iflands, which unfortunately derives much
celebrity from the death of Captain COOK, and where he arrived on the
2/th of March,

* Captain Jofeph Tngraham, of Bofton, commander of the brigantine Hope, oBofton,.
difcovered thefe iilands on the 19th of April, 1191. They are feven in number, and lie
between eight degrees three minutes, and nine degrees twenty-four minutes fouth lati-
tude, and between one hundred and forty degrees nineteen minutes and one hundred and
forty-one degrees eighteen minutes weft longitude from Greenwich. Before Captain In-
graham's difcovery was known, Captain Jofiah Robert, of Bofton, failed for the north-
weft coaft, faw the fame iilands, and gave them the names mentioned by the author. But
the whole group is named Ingraham's Iflands, in honour of their firft and true difcoverer.
* Tranflator.

the

434 TRAVELS IN' NORTH AMERICA,

The manners in the Sandwich Iflands are much the fame as in the
Marquefas Illands. On account of the great number of fhips, which
touch at this ifland, fowls and pigs are kept here in fuch plenty, that
ihips may be eafily fupplied with them. Captain Robert intended to fail
hence for the north-weft coaft of America, and on his return to rendez-
vous in this ifland, with his other veflel. After having taken in freih
water, and what provifion he could obtain, he proceeded to the above
coaft.

T^ootka Sound lies in forty- nine degrees thirty-fix minutes north lati-
tude. The coaft, commonly defigned by this name, extends from forty*
eight to fifty-five degrees north latitude. As foon as a Ihip comes within
fight, the Indians appear on the more, and, if ihe caft anchor, bring peltry
in. their canoes, which they know is the object of the voyage. The ca-
noes are, on their return, accompanied by the fhip's boats, with a certain
number of feamen and an agent, appointed by the mafter, to conclude
the bargain with the Indians. Ships are frequently obliged to remain
feveral months off the coaft, before they can obtain their full cargo.

Captain Robert firft dropped anchor in Berkeley's Sound, whither In-
dians from the Straights of Fuca brought a great quantity of furs. His
other veflel, which drew lefs water than that on board of which he him-
fclf failed, he ordered to fail into the bays, to approach nearer to the
coaft, and to fend the produce of her trade to his fhip. The fmall
Charlotte Iflands, which lie but a few miles from the coaft, contribute
.alfo to this trade, which is carried on with great fafety, though very
flowly, as the inhabitants. are of a mild and honeft difpofition. They
are not yet very fond of fpirituous liquors ; they prefer copper and
iron, efpecially copper in meets. They live by hunting and fifhing, are
ot the fame complexion as the Indians, who inhabit the fea coaft, but
apparently lefs hofpitable than the inhabitants of the Marquefas Iflands.

After Captain Robert had continued .fix or feven months off this coaft,
he loft, in a violent gale of wind, hisfecond veflel, which was lefs diftant
from fhorc than that on board of which he was, and lefs able to weather
the tremendous ftorm. Twelve men went to the bottom with the vef-

fel,

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 41ft

iel, together with considerable quantities of peltry and articles for ex-
change, and alfo with the plans of the coaft, which Captain Robert re-
lates he difcovered.

From Owhyhee Captain Robert fet fail for Canton, where, in the man-
ner peculiar to this place, but now generally known, he bartered his otter-
fldns for tea, rice, filks, indigo, and nankeens. The Chineie merchants
are not, by his account, remarkable for honefty, but very artful, fo that
you may be eafily overreached by them, if you be not on your guard.
The otter fkins, which, off the north-weft coaft of America, you obtain
for about fix dollars, fetch in Canton twenty dollars. But Captain Robert
aflured me, that the price encreafes on the coaft, whence they are pro^
cured, and decreafes in China. Otters are found between forty and fixty
degrees.

The Englifh, French, and American ihips proceed no farther than
Norfolk Sound, in fifty- five degrees north latitude ; the Ruffians trade
to the more northerly parts. After having traverfed the Siberian defarts
in numerous caravans, they ftop in Kamtfchatka, where they build mips,
and then fail to the Fox Iflands, double Cape Providence, and commence
their trade in Loak River. They treat the Indian poffeffions as Ruffian
provinces, impofe contributions, and flog or kill the inhabitants, if their
propofals of exchange be not immediately accepted. Their articles for
barter are rum, copper, and tobacco ; the peltry which they obtain, they
fell to merchants of Kamtfchatka, who fupply them with merchandize.
They frequently return three times, to fetch peltry and import into Ruffia
the commodities of China, with which they arrive in caravans, after an
abfence of three or four years.

From Canton, where Captain Robert continued from the 25th of No-
vember, 1794, until the 12th of February, 17Q5, he failed back ftraight
to America, after having loft fome feamen through illnefs and in-
difcretion. He doubled the Cape of Good Hope, and arrived at Bofton
on the 28th of July, 17Q5, without having touched at any foreign port
iince his departure from Canton. However diflatisfied Captain Robert
is with this voyage, yet he entertains, it feems, the project of fetting out

foon

TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

foon on another for the fame deftination. He bears the character of a
brave, bold, and prudent feaman, andfpeaksof his voyages as a man, who
is perfectly acquainted with thofe which were made before his, and who
is able to improve his own experience, as well as that of others.

JOURNEY INTO THE DISTRICT OF MAINE AND BACK TO

PHILADELPHIA.

DEPARTURE FROM BOSTON JOURNEY TO THE DISTRICT OF MAINE.

On the firft project I had formed to defcend the river St. Lawrence,
to vifit Hallifax, and to return into the United States through the diftrict
of Maine, 1 intended to vifit General Knox, who, with exquifite polite-
nefs, had given me in Philadelphia an invitation to that effect, and whofe
manfion was fituated on my way. On my arrival I entertained the fame
idea, although at that time the diftrict of Maine lay rather out of my
way ; and the repeated proofs of friendfhip I received from the General
confirmed me in my refolution. I accordingly embarked with him for
'St. George's River, whither he returned after a four months abfence.

The houfe of the General is fituated about two hundred miles from
Bofton, both by land and water. At this time of the year the pafTage is ge-
nerally made in twenty -four hours ; but peculiar circumftances prevented
vis for three or four days from availing ourfelves of the favourable wind ;
and after thefe impediments had been removed, our captain wimed, as
foon as poffible, to improve the firft appearance of fine weather. This
was very trifling indeed, when he fet fail, for which reafon we were fcarcely
able the firft evening to clear the mouth of the harbour. ^On the fecond day
we were forced by a thick fog, and ftrong indication of a heavy ftorm, to
make the bay of Cape Ann. Thefc meafures of precaution, adopted by OUT
captain, of which we could not but approve, removed us forty miles out
of the ftraight road. As foon as the fog and indication of a ftorm had
difappeared, we got again under way ; but meeting with a dead calm, we
were obliged to come once more to an anchor, within four hundred yard;?
.-of our firft anchoring place. The wind generally died away early in the

morning,

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 417

morning, as well as the afternoon, for which rcafon we reachetl not the
General's manfion till after a paffage of feventy-two hours, and after
having failed fifteen miles up St. George's River.

CAPE ANN, GLOUCESTER.

The circumftance of our being compelled to put into the bay of Cape
Ann afforded me an opportunity of feeing the drying of cod fim. The
whole coaft of MalTachufetts, and efpecially of the diftricl of Maine, is
inhabited by fimermen, engaged in the fifhery on the great fand-bank ;
they bring all the fim on more, where they receive the laft dreffing. The
fim are warned as foon as they are taken out of the water, and laid firft in
heaps, that the water may run off. Then they remain for two or three
days expofed to the air, after which they are placed on hurdles, about
four or five feet in breadth, three or four feet above the ground, and as
long as the field on which they are creeled, generally about a hundred or
a hundred and twenty yards. The fim are laid on thefe hurdles, firft three
or four, one upon another, and, after they have loft moft of the water, every
fim feparately ; they are frequently turned, that they may get thoroughly
dry, which generally takes five or fix days ; at laft they are packed in cafes,
preffed down, and exported either to the Weft India Iflands, or Europe.

The beft fifh, that is, thofe which, caught in the firft fiihing months,
are fuperiour to the reft from their being dried more ilowly, are fent to
Spain. They are fold at double the price of thofe, which are caught later
in the year, when the heat is more intenfe, and which are exported
either to the Weft Indies, or fome part of the continent. But from
among the fifh of the better fort, which are deftincd for Spain, the beft
arc picked out for thofe inhabitants of MaiTachufetts, who are peculiarly
fond of fait ftock fifh ; and there are in that county few families, who
have not, every Saturday, a good difh of ftock fim on their table. As to the
ufual partition of the proceeds of the fifhery, it is as follows, viz.

The mips employed in the fifhery, which arc generally of feventy tuns
burthen, are navigated by a maftcr, feven feamen, and a boy. The
owner of the mip has a fourth of the profit ; the dryer on the coaft an

3 H eighth,

418 TP.AVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

eighth, and the reft is divided among the mailer and i'eamen, in proper-,
tion to the fifh they have caught. The cxpence for candles, wood, bait,
and fait is deducted, previoufly to the partition; every feaman takes' care
of the fifh he has caught. A vcflel of fixty tuns burthen takes upon an
average twelve hundred cod fifh, which are generally worth two dollars
and a half per hundred weight, but coil at prefent from five to fix dollars.

The town of Glouceiler, which is fituated near Cape Ann, em-
ploys in the fifhery, at the great bunk, about forty or fifty yachts and
brigs. Thefe veflels are of the burthen of one hundred or one hundred
and ten tons ; make in general three voyages in a year, if they commence
fiihing in March, and continue until November, when the filhery termi-
nates. Before the war, the town of Gloucefler, though lefs conficlerable
than at prefent, employed more veflels in the fifhery than at this time.
This decreafe, which fecms extraordinary, fmce the number of mips
built in this port is much greater now than at that time, originates
from the comparatively greater advantages, which the fhip-owners derive
from trade. But the number of towns, which fhare in the fifhery on
the great bank, is alfo more confiderable than formerly ; fo that although
the fhare of fingle places in the fifhery may have decreafed within thefe
laft fifteen years, yet the number of thofe that fhare in it has greatly en-
creafed.

Befides the filhery on the great bank, the coafh of MafTachufetts, and
the diftricl: of Maine, furnifh alfo large quantities of flock fifh. They
are neither fo large, nor fo plentiful, as at the great bank ; yet this fifhery
affords ufeful employment to a confiderable number of mips, which pro-
ceed only five or fix miles from the coafl, return home every week, and
are not expofed to the fame danger as fhips engaged in the other fifhery,
which mix their fifh with thofe that are caught near Newfoundland.

The road of Cape Ann lies fouth-wefl from the Cape. It is capacious
and fafe. On a commanding eminence on the coaft, a fort is now
contracting, which will mofl effectually protect both the road and its
entrance. Within the fort ablock-houfe is built, the lower part of which
ferves for a powder-magazine ; and that part, which is dcftined to be in-
habited

BY THIi DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

habited by the garrhbn, is built with fo much care, that in all probability it
will be bomb-proof.

The town of Gloucefter, fituated at the bottom of the bay, is pleafant,
though not regular. It contains a number of ftores or ihops, and a
confide rable proportion of good houfes. Like all the other fmall towns
around, it has an air of briik and thriving induftry.

In the year 1 / 94, commodities to the value of two hundred and twenty
thoufand eight hundred and fifty dollars were exported out of Gloucefter ;
but its exports for the prefent year will fcarcely amount to one hundred
and eighty thoufand dollars. Its chief trading intercourfe is with the
Well Indies.

We have obtained little new information in the courfe of our voyage
thither. We came on board a veifel belonging to St. George's River,
which ufually takes in its lading there. The principal commercial bufi-
nefs of the province of Maine conlifts in the exportation of timber to Bof-
ton. It is conveyed in frnall yachts from eighty to a hundred and twenty
tons burthen : fomctimcs brigs and fcbooners are employed. The yachts
are, however, preferred, becaufe they are lighter than the others, and can
be navigated by fewer hands. At times thefc yachts will proceed as far as
New York, Philadelphia, Norfolk, Baltimore, or Charleftown. From thefe
places they are always freighted back with a new cargo, by which the
profits of the voyage are increafed. From Bofton they muft return empty,
and therefore lefs readily undertake that voyage. The clear profits of a
finelc voyage were eftimated at fixty-fix dollars. One of thefc veiTels

~ .' O

made, lail year, fixteen or fcventeen voyages ; and the owner's neat gains
for that length of time amounted to between one thoufand and fifty- fix
and one thoufand one hundred and twelve dollars ; while the coil of the
vcrTcl was from three thoufand to three thoufand three hundred and fifty
dollars. When the timber is uncommonly excellent in its quality, the
profits are greater. The returns are alfo unufually "good from cargoes of
lime, of which there begins to be abundance found in the province of
Maine. When the population of this province iliall have adequately in-

3 H '2 creafed>

420 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

creafcd, and its quarries mall be wrought in a due proportion, it will
then find a very ample iburce of wealth in the exportation of its lime
ftone.

The vcifel in which we failed was dirty and incommodious. Like trie
reft of this craft, it was fitted for the reception of goods, not for the ac-
commodation of a few cafual paflengers. But the attentions of the
captain made every thing as agreeable as poffible to us. It is to be ob-
ferved, that thefe veflels very often go without a lading, and many times
return even without ballaft ; a condition of the fliip, which makes pru-
dence and vigilance in the captain peculiarly neceflary. Our food, during
the fhort voyage, confifted chiefly of fifh, which w r e caught ourfelves. Of
thefe there is on the coafts fuch plenty, that before your line has been
caft two minutes, you are fure to have a fifh on your hook, which will
weigh, at the leaft, two pounds, often not lefs than twelve pounds. They
are of the fpecies of the cod fifh and the halibut ; the cod fifh are
larger, and worfe in their flavour than thofe of many other places. On
hefe coafts, efpecially at the mouth of the river, lie a number of iflets.
At the mouth of St. George's River there appears a multitude of thefe of
almoft every diverfity of fize and figure : fcarcely one of them is under
cultivation. Mod of them belong to the {late. Thefe coafts are all,
more or lefs, inhabited. The tide is faid to flow up St. George's River,
for the fpace of two and twenty miles. To the diftance of fifteen miles
from its mouth, the channel of the river is three quarters of a mile broad.
It there empties itfelf into a bay of nearly the fame breadth ; after which
it is fuddenly contracted into a bed fcarcely thirty fathoms from one fide
to the other.

THOMAS TOWN. GENERAL KNOX AND HIS FAMILY.

At the extremity of this wide bay ftands the houfe of General Knox,
From its front there is a truly interefting profpecl: of the river, for an ex-
tent of nine miles. The houfe is agreeably fituated on a declivity, which
rifes with a gentle elevation from the river-fide. Almoft all the adjacent

lands

1?Y THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOUKT. 421

lands have been, for a longer or a fhorter time, under cultivation. The
natural fertility of the foil has been confiderably improved, and it affords
pafture to numerous herds of black cattle and flocks of iheep. The
dwelling-houfes around are frequent ; and out of a hundred that may
be feen at the General's refidence, there are hardly half a dozen log-
houfes. The General's houfe is a handfome, though not a magnificent
ftru&ure ; neatly, if not fumptuoufly furnimed ; fufHciently fpacious and
convenient for the accommodation of a numerous family, with additional
lodging for the occafional reception of feven or eight friends, or even
more ; who, however unexpected their coming, would not fail to find
themfelves as comfortably entertained as they could defire.

The General poffeiTes, in right of his wife, a very extenfive landed eftate,
which is known by the name of the Waldo Patent. The right of the pro-
perty of this eftate is derived either from a treaty with the Indians, which
was made towards the end of the laft century by the family of Waldo, from
whom Mrs, Knox is a defcendent ; or from a fubfequent agreement be-
tween the Indians and the fame family of Waldo. This agreement was
at that time ratified by the King of England, then fovereign of this part
of America ; and, fmce the revolution, it has been declared valid by the
ftate of MafTachufetts. The General has acquired likewife a large eftate
by purchafe, which lies contiguous to the former. He enjoys both thefe
cftates, therefore, under every right of tenure by which property, can be
Tendered unqueftionably fecure. Of this great eftate, a thoufand acres
have been inherited from the Wai does, the anceftors of Mrs. Knox ; a fa-
mily, of which the male line is now extinct: the reft is the acquifition
of her hufband, the General. But, befides this, a number of families
have, at different times, eftablimed themfelves on Waldo's Patent, with-
out any authority, fave that they met with no oppofition in the attempt,,
at a time when the tracl which remained undivided, was not kept under the
particular infpeclion of any perfon, who might have protected the rights
of the original proprietors. Moft of thefe encroachers have fettled near
the coaft. The advantage of a rich fifhery firft drew them hither, and

was

421 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

was long their only fourcc of emolument. By degrees they cultivated
fome fpots of ground, befide their huts. The foil was found to be fertile ;
and it afforded them an abundant increafe. To the firft fimple huts fuc-
ceeded houfes of firmer ftructure, and a better appearance ; the whole ex-
tent of the eftate of Waldo's Patent, along the fea-coaft and the more of
St. George's River, and for about half a mile inland, is now almoft en-
tirely occupied, and under cultivation. The richeft part of this territory
is in the poileffion of perfons who have no juft right to it. The value of
the productions of the foil, and the advantages of a fituation fo contigu-
ous to the river and the fea-coaft, make their lot extremely defirable.
The General's right to difpoflefs thefe intruders is unqueflionable. But,
this right is eafier to be proved than to be made effective ; for there are
perhaps a thoufand families who, if it were to be carried into force, would
be ftrippcd of their poffeffions. Moft of them are well aware, that they
came hither, and formed their fettlements, without having acquired any
previous right to the lands which they chofe to occupy. They knew
not then, indeed, that thofe lands belonged to General Knox or to the
Waldo family ; but fuppofed this to be an uninhabited territory, formerly
of the Crown of England, and fmce, of the State of Mailachufetts. The
example of fo many others, who had no more right than themfelves, en-
couraged, and leemed to authorife them to fettle at their pleafure. In fo
doing, they intended no incroachment upon the property of the General ;
and, iince the commencement of their reiidencc here, they have im-
proved their ground by their care and labour, and have actually bellowed
the better part of that which conftitutes its prefent value, for the lands
adjacent are by no means of equal fertility. Thefe considerations cannot,
indeed, inveir. them with a clear title to their pofieflions, yet give them,
certainly, a claim to indulgence. A great proprietor, who mould pre-
tend to overlook thefe facts, would defervedly incur the blame of bafe
and dimoneil felfifhnefs. He might expoie himfelf, even while fucceis-
ful, in vindicating his rights before a court of juilice, to the general refent-
mcnt of the whole country. And by his fuccefs, even his own pecuniary

intercfts

BY THE DUKE DK LA EOCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

intercfts might be injured in confequence of the confufion, the diffenfions,
the diipcrfion, and the clamours,, which would, in fuch a country as this,
enlue.

Of the importance of thefe confiderations General Knox is fully fenfi-
blc ; and he has been guided by them in his conduct towards this numer-
ous clafs of pcrfons ufurpiiig the pofTeilion of his eftates. None of them
denies his title. Some are willing, on this account, to fell him a part of
their plantations, at a very low price ; and with them he comes to an
cafy compromife. Others wifh to acquire a legal right to their poflef-
fions ; and with them he agrees, that, for the payment of a fmall fum,
they Ihall remain proprietors, each of a hundred acres of land, which is
reckoned, in the State of MafTachufetts, to be a farm fufficient for the
fupport of a family. Thus complying with circumftances, he is careful
neither to attack the interefb of particular individuals, nor to fet him-
felf in oppofition to the prejudices of the country ; and the fagacity of his
management cannot fail to be, in the end, productive of the moil advan-
tageous confequences.

In this territory, it feems to me, that no perfon can fail to thrive, who
pofTelTes fo eminently, the qualities of intelligence, prudence, and activity,
together with a fufficient capital, to lay out in improvements.

Thefe necefTary fubdivifions of his eftate can only ferve to make it all
one fcene of profperous hufbandry and abundant population, fooner than
the worthy owner could otherwise have expected. So much do I know
of his character and talents, and fo freely did he explain his plans to me,
that I cannot but hope as warmly, as I fmcerely wifh, the happieft
confequences to his affairs and to the country, to refult from them both.
At the fame time, it feems to be indifpenfibly requifite to their fuccefs,
that they be profecuted with unwearied and unalterable perfeverance.
At the diftance of Philadelphia, and amidft other bufmefs, it will be im-
poffible to give the due attention to their advancement. A refidence on
the fpot is abfolutely necefTary. But)' with this, attention and activity
cannot fail to furmount every obftacle ; and the happieft event muft in-
fallibly enfue. General Knox is fully fenfible of all this ; and has, there-
fore

i'24 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

fore, retired from that public bufmefs, in which he was engaged, for
five and twenty years of his life, with great honour to himfelf, and to
which he generoufly facrinced a part of his fortune. He has even refolved
to decline attending the winter-meetings of the legiflature of the State of
Maflachufetts. Thus, from a fuccefsful career in political life, he turns
himfelf to augment and improve a fair eftate, in confequence of which
he may probably leave immenfe wealth to his family. Can a man know
a paft life of more agreeable retrofpecl, in connexion with future prof-
peels more fair and promifmg ?

A MORE PARTICULAR ACCOUNT OF THE

DISTRICT OF MAINE.

At prefent, the trade of St. George's River is neither remarkably briik,
nor very gainful ; and a dozen petty merchants refident in Warren,
Thomailown, and Waldoborough, are proprietors of almoft all the Ihip-
ping. The captain of a ihip has, commonly, a fhare in the property of
her. The merchants have {hops ; and exchange their goods, with great
advantage, for provifion, with which they are fupplied by the country-
people, and wood for exportation, with which they freight their veilels.
But, though the neceffities of the people, and the advantage with which
thefe merchants can difpofe of their goods, might encourage them to a
more extennve trade in wood, they rarely procure more of it, in fpring,
than will ferve their domeftic purpofes, and lade a {ingle veifel. They
fcarcely ever freight any number of veffels with this commodity. Their
profits arife chiefly from the retail fale of their goods, and from the
freight which they fometimcs receive, in confequence of having a marc
in a Ihip.

The rell of the trade is carried on by the fmall land-holders and th
{hip-captains. Every colonift fells, in winter, a certain quantity "of
trees, which he either chops up into billets, or carries to the faw-mill.
Thefe produces of the country he delivers to the captain, to carry them
to Bofton, and fell them there on his account ; if want of money do

not

BY THE DUKE DE LA. ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 425

not oblige him to diipofe of them to the merchants on the fpot. The
freight of the timber, and of thofe other products which the country
adjacent to St. George's River affords for exportation, is more or lefs,
according to the nature of the different articles. It is, however, no
unufual thing for the perfons Ihipping cargoes, to agree, that the cap-
tains mall receive, as freight, a fourth part of the price, which the com-
modities ihall fetch in the market. This the captain divides with his
owners ; referving to himfelf one-half. Out of this he fupports and
pays the fhip's crew, for the voyage. The owner of the cargo is to re-
ceive three-fourths out of its whole proceeds. It often happens, that
the clear profit out of thefe three-fourths is not equal to that one-fourth
which w r as paid for the freight. The prime coft of a cargo, for inftance,
mall be a hundred dollars ; it mail be fold in Bofton for a hundred
and eighty dollars : out of this fum, forty-five dollars go to pay the
freight ; and the clear gain to the exporter, after the value of the goods
is deducted, will, then, be no more than thirty-five dollars. It is, in-
deed, true, that the proprietors of thefe fmall cargoes fupply their timbet
out of their own woods ; convey it to the fhore upon their own fledges,
drawn by their own oxen, at a time when they are not neceflarily em-
ployed in other work ; and reckon nothing for their own labour, -by
all which their fmall profits are fomewhat enhanced. It is likewife true,
that, as the felling and removing of the trees clears the ground for agri-
culture, however little the timber may bring, its exportation is ftill to be
regarded as considerably advantageous.

When the proprietor of the cargo is, at the fame time, owner of the
veilel, he then allows the captain one-half of the clear profit, over and
above the prime coft of the commodity. But, of this, I believe, there is
no inftance in St. George's River. In that cafe, whether the goods be
the produce of the exporter's own lands, or be purchafed by him for ex-
portation, he fixes a certain medium price, which muft firft be deducted
before the captain can come in for his ihure. When the prime coft of a
cargo is four hundred dollars, and it is fold again for fix hundred, the cap-
fain then receive? one hundred dollars, and the merchant and owner of

3 I the

42(5 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

the YeiTel another hundred. Trifling as thcfe accounts may appear, ftili
they arc by no means indifferent: with reipect to our knowledge of a
country fo new as this, and fo highly calculated to excite our interefl in
,what concerns it. But, the trade from St. George's liiver, as I have al-
ready mentioned, is not by any means briik. The mips, which ri}ight
take in a lading in the fpace of two or three days, often confume as many
weeks in an idle delay, and are, even then, not fully laden.

The caufes of this flacknefs of bufmels are ; 1 . The want of creeks
fufficiently deep to admit the timber to be conveyed down them for ex-
portation, after the lands more contiguous to St. George's River have
been cleared of woods ; 2. The fcarcity of good faw-mills, which is in-
deed a natural confequence of the former difadvantage ; 3. The want
of fufficient capitals in the hands of their merchants, which being em-
ployed with intelligence and activity, might conquer any phyfical difji^
culties, or might, at leaft, partially remove whatever is now very un-
favourable.

General Knox has projected a canal to improve the navigation of
St. George's River, which, by avoiding many rapids, will render the river
navigable for feventy or eighty miles further up than veffels at prefent
go. A great quantity of wood, that cannot now be brought to be fhip-
ped, would, then, be eafily within the reach of water-carriage. The canal
is indeed already begun. At the rapids, which it will leave free from na-
vigation, a number of faw-mills may be erected. Thefe Air. POPE, the
ableft civil-engineer in all America, has engaged to form, and which, of
confequence, will be conftrucled in the utmoft perfection. Perhaps this
canal, when cut, may open a communication with other ftreams, by
which means navigation mall be facilitated, agriculture improved, and
traffic enriched and enlivened. A magazine of wood, of all forts, might
then be formed, to lade the mips whenever they mould arrive in the river,
and to meet all the demands and fpeculations of the merchants. At pre-
fent there is not a fmgle trader in the country, who could fupply a cargo
of wood for a vefTel of ninety tons burthen, in the fpace of lefs than two
months.

Ship-

BY THE DUKU DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOUfcT.

Ship-building is, in this river, no unpromifmg branch of trade. Oak-
trees are fo abundant in the neighbourhood, that thefe may long fiipply
fufficient materials, without there being any neceffity for having recourfe
to the more inacceffible interior parts. The common price for fhip-
building, in St. George's River, is ten pounds, or thirty- three dollars and
two fhillings a ton ; all things being, for this money, fupplied, and the
vefTels are fold at Boflon, at the rate of twelve or thirteen pounds, or
from forty to forty-three dollars, a ton. To the number of five or fix
vcffels a year are built in St. George's River. Ships, of any number of
tons burthen, can come as far up as the houfe of General Knox ; but
to Warren, the limit of the influx of the tide into the river, only veflels
of eighty tons burthen can afcend.

Agriculture is, throughout this territory, but in a poor flate, althou gh
the land is every where fuificiently fertile. The people fow but little
wheat, from a perfuafion, that the climate is too cold for it, fcarcely
any Indian corn, and, on the whole, but little oats. The ground lies
molt.ly in grafs and affords excellent hay, among which is a wild clo-
ver, which grows thick, and is of a pleafant fragrance. Befides thofe
things which are adverfe to the improvement of American husbandry in
general, the agriculture of this region lies under the following difadvan-
tages peculiar to itfelf : 1 . The fuccefs of fa&jifliery, which affords abun-
dant means of fimple fubfiftence to thofe who choofe to depend upon it,
2. The fcope for employment in wood-cutting, which yields fmall but
certain daily wages, and dtews men from the plough, of which the profits
return more flowly, and W T ith lefs certainty. 3. The bufmcfs of Jtme-
lurn'mg affords certain,- and' not inconfiderable wages, and thus allures
many of the people from the tillage of the lands, prematurely exhaufts
their ftrength, enhances their neccffitres, and leads them into the fatal
habit of intoxicating th^mfelves with ftrong liquors. Experience evinces,
that thefe three claffes of people are the pooreft, the rnoft profligate, and
confequently not the happieil. The drilricl: of Maine might produce,
any wrtfrc, corn equal to that of tlic hhids round Kingfton in -tipper
Canada, where the foil is not better, and which lies under the difaclvan-

3 I 2 tages

428 TRAVELS IN XORTH AMERICA,

tages of a more northern climate. The tracts of meadow are exten-
five and beautiful ; in coniequencc of \vhich vaft herds of cattle may be
kept in the country : as the cattle muft be houfed for fix months in the
year, great quantities of dung, are accumulated ; and the river affords
alfo a rich and fertilizing flime, which might be fucccfsfully employed as
manure. All thefc advantages tend to encourage agricultural improve-
ments, and to render their fuccefs certain. But the prefent practices
mull firft be abandoned ; the predominant prejudices mull firil be re-
linquilhed ; and, what is the hardeft tafk of all, the people muft be roufed
from their negligence. I was allured, that the people who live at the
diftance of fifteen or twenty miles inland, are better hufbandmen, and
raife large quantities of corn. I readily believe the fa6l. Fifhing, the
burning of lime, and the felling of wood, are a fort of employment very
profitable to great companies, and to the poiTeiTors of large capitals. And
provided thefe people may have their gains, they little care, whether
men's morals be injured, and the general improvement of the country re-
tarded, by the purfuits which they encourage.

A pair of oxen coft here iixty dollars ; a cow, eighteen or twenty dol-
lars. Although no pains are taken to improve the breed of the cattle,,
they are, in general, good. Land may be purchafed very cheap, efpe-
cially from thofe who apply themfelves to the fifhcry ; for thefe people
are often in difficulties. Wheat cofts feven millings a bumel, and almoft
all that is here confumed, is brought from New York or Philadelphia^
Indian corn is equally dear ; rye coils a dollar, or fix millings a bumel, if
bought on the fpot ; the price of oats is two Shillings and five-pence a
bumel ; that of barley fix millings ; a ton of hay may be bought for nine
dollars. Labourers are not eafily procured here ; but they may be hired
from the environs of Boilon. Theis wages, for the winter months, are:
feven dollars a month; for the fummer- months, ten dollars a month..
All the milch-cows here are of the beft fort*

The mercury in the thermometer has not, in the courfe of the prefent
year, rifen above feventy-two degrees of Fahrenheit, or feventeen one-
fourth of Reaumur, in the vicinity of St. George's River. Its ordinary

variations

BY THE DUKE DE LA 110CHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

variations have been from fifty to fifty-five of Fahrenheit, or from eight to
ten and half of Reaumur. There has been much cold and rainy weatlier.

JOURNEY TO AND FROM THE RIVER OF PENOBSCOT.

As General Knox's bufmefs called him to a different part of his eftates,
I took the opportunity of accompanying him, in order to acquire a far-
ther knowledge of the country. We travelled along the more of the bay
of Penobfcot. This bay and the river of the fame name are the ex-
treme limits of the trading manufactories of the diftricl of Maine ; the
more of the bay, along the weft coaft, and that of the river for twenty
miles, bound the territory of Waldo-patent. Almoft all this tracl of the
more is inhabited by perfons, who have occupied their lands without
any juft title ; fo that the true proprietors are excluded from their own-
lands, by the ufurpation of thefe unauthorifed fettlers. Wood-cutting
is the great employment of the people who dwell along the eoaft ; it is
almoft their fole employment. The wood growing contiguous to this
bay is of excellent quality, and finds therefore a certain and ready fale.
A hundred acres of land will, by the fale of the wood, afford fuftenancc
to a family for a number of years. In thofe diftricls through which I
have travelled during the laft five months, the wood is cut down- for the
purpofe of clearing the ground ; and no fooner is the fmall wood burnt or
removed, than the field is fenced in, and fown with grain. Here, on the
contrary, the wood is fuffered to fpring up anew, after the old trees are
felled ; the turf is covered with a native clover, which grows very luxuri-
antly among the roots of the trees that have been cut down, and the^
fmall wood that lies fcattered around^ This clover affords forage for
Iheep and black cattle, which the owner of the ground turns out to graze
upon it. A flight fence enclofes- his garden, the little potatoe ground
within which his houfe {lands. There is no other fort of encloiure in ufe
among thefe people. Upon all thefe lands in general, there has been very
little labour of cultivation employed ; but the foil is almoft every where
fertile, and better in quality than that in*the vicinity of St. George's River.
It is fuch, that thefe illegal occupiers, after cutting down the fineft trees

.130 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

on one piece of ground adjacent to the more, frequently difpofe of this
firft fettlement ; and removing to another, which they occupy without
purchafe, clear it in the fame manner, by cutting down and felling off its
wood. Purchafers give no great price for thefe lands, knowing, that the
title to the poffeffion of them is not valid, unlefs it mall be confirmed by
General Knox. They buy the lands at lefs than the fair value, from thofe
illegal occupiers who are willing to relinquim them, expecting to fell them
again with advantage, after making fome fuitable arrangement with the
General ; and, in this expectation, they are rarely difappointed.

The view of the bay of Penobfcot is one of the moft agreeable pro-
fpects that the eye can enjoy. The bay is very extcnfive, and is inter-
fperfed with numberlefs iflcts of various magnitudes, moft of which are
inhabited. It is but feldom that any confiderable number of veilels is to
be feen in this bay.

Camden was the firft ftage at which we halted. By the Indians, and
often even by its prefent inhabitants, this place is named Myganticock.
'Squire GLAVERY, at whofe houfe we flopped, is one of thofe illegal pof-
feilbrs of lands, whom in ftricl: juftice General Knox might difpoifefs..
But various circumftanccs concur to induce the General to v confirm his
right, and grant him a title to his poffeffion, upon the payment of a'fhil-.
ling an acre. He lives near a fmall creek, at the mouth of a little river.
He occupies both fides of this river, and has erected two mills upon it.
By thefe he gets a great, deal of money; though the whole cftablifh-
ments of his bufmeis ftand upon ground, which he well knows do not
belong to himfelf. He is now building a fchooner of a hundred and
twenty tons burthen, which cofts him at the rate of thirty dollars a ton.
He keeps, likewiie, a mop ; and is the only pcrfon in thefe parts that
carries on any confiderable trade ; though even what he does, in this way,,
is, for the prefent, but trifling. Camden river is, with difficulty, navi-
gable by veilels, fdr the fpace of three miles, from its rriouth up to a cer-
tain pool of extraordinary depth, in its channel. For a fmall expcncc,
the difficulties which obftruct its navigation might be removed, and it
might be rendered navigable for the fpace of a mlk^higher up than the

pool ;

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCIIEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 431

pool ; though it is not there of fuch width as to admit of any great ad-
vantages being derived from its navigation. It is, however, probable,
that, when this country mall be in a better ftate of population, what
is now regarded as impofiible, will appear to be void of difficulty ; and
when the river mail be rendered navigable for a greater diftance up its
ftream, the improvement cannot fail to be in various refpe&s highly be-
neficial to the adjacent inhabitants.

From Camden, we proceeded to the next ilage at Ducktrap- creek, and
there halted. Captain ALMA, who pofierTes both fides of the river, fettled
here about {even 'or eight years ago, with the General's permhTion. His
brother and himfelf had feryed as officers in the army, without acquiring
any provision for themfelves, fave the hope of obtaining a fettlement up-
on fome unappropriated lands. They arc, at prefent, merchants, owners
of lands which they have bought, proprietors of venels, mailers, in fhort,
of a good fortune, which, in the progrefs of life and bufinefs, they will,
doubtlefs, confiderably augment. The intelligence and activity of thele
two brothers, have not yet been directed to the improvement of their
eftates. Thefe, like almoft all the other lands upon the bay, lie entirely
without cultivation. The natural grafs affords mfficient hay for winter-
forage to the few cattle which they maintain. They live in different
houfes, but are, in every undertaking, equally interefted. Captain Alma,
whom we faw, refides conftantly in America, and manages all their joint
concerns in this place. His brother undertakes voyages in a veiTel belong-
ing to them, to England, to the Weft-Indies, and in the coafting trade.
He went lately with a cargo of wood to Liverpool. Its prime coft was
fix hundred dollars ; and the price for which it may be fold at Liverpool,
may amount to fix thoufand four hundred dollars. Befide this foreign
trade, which the brothers Alma prefer to the coaft ing-trade, they are alfo
engaged in the fimery, they build mips, and they fpeculate in land-
jobbing. They introduce as many new iettlers as poffible into the dif-
trici of Maine ; and this they can do with the greater advantage, as
they ftand very high in favour with General Knox, the only legal ow^ner
of all this territory. 1 obtained the following particulars of information

from.

432 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

from Captain Alma, and another inhabitant of this diftrict. 1 . The price
of Ihip-building for veflels of a larger fize, at Ducktrap, is forty dollars a
ton burthen for veflels exceeding two hundred tons ; and from twenty
to thirty dollars a ton, for fuch as are of fmaller fize. 2. The wages to
the mafter-carpenter, are a dollar and a half a day ; to the others, only
.one dollar ; and they are all fupplied with victuals, at a feparate expence
to their employer. 3. The fifhery on the coaft is carried on by almoft
all the merchants on the bay, with veflels of fifteen or twenty tons
burthen. The captain has from the owners of the veflel, lines, ropes,
provifion, coffee, and receives one-half of the profits of the fifhery. The
fim are dried on the Fox-Iflands, at the mouth of the bay of Pcnobfcot.
A Sixteenth part goes to the people who have the charge of this part of
the bufmefs. The fifhing will yield, in a fummer, fixty dollars of profit
to the mip-owner. His veflel cofts one hundred and fifty dollars. This
fifhcry is altogether diflincl: from that of falmon, of which a great num-
ber' frequent the bay in the beginning of the fummer. Almoft all of the
ftock-fifh is purchafed by the planters in the back-fettlements, at the rate
of five dollars a barrel ; the remainder being exported to the Weft-Indies.
Foreign trade is reckoned to be twice as profitable as the coafting-tradc.
5. The price of wood of all forts is nearly the fame as in St. George's
River ; the only difference of price arifcs from there being a greater or a
fmaller quantity ready for exportation, at any particular time, in either of
the two places.

In building veflels, they make the beams, which fupport the deck, from
the trunk of the fpruce-fir ; taking care that thefe, and fome other parts
which are framed of this timber, have a fufficieiit thicknefs of wood,
and be fufficicntly rivctted together. The reft of the veflel is made of
oak planks, procured from a different part of the country. It is but
about three years fince the fpruce-fir was firft ufcd in building fbips in this
bay. The ihip-builders affirm, that it is an inprovement to the veflels;
but I am inclined to think, that the want of oak, or rather a fcarcity of
this high-priced timber, has been the chief caufe of this innovation.
They here aflurc us, that the timber of the fpruce-fir, when ufed in this

way,

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 433

way, is found to be very ftrong and lafting ; and confidering how little
profit is, at prefent, to be derived from building with fo expenfive a tim-
ber as oak, the greateffc advantages may refult from employing in fhip-
building a fpecies of trees, which have been hitherto left to rot neg-
lecled upon the ground. As a proof of the fitnefs of fpruce-fir for Imp-
building, they farther mentioned to us, that fome of thefe trees, which
had been felled ten years ago, and had been expofcd ever fmce that time
to the fun and weather, were found at this time to be as frcm and found,
as if they had been but newly cut down.

The planks of the body of the fhip, to the water's edge, are often
made, inftead of oak, rather of beech-wood, or of the wood of the black
birch, which is reckoned equally hard and good. The keel is of the
wood of the beech, of the fugar-maple, or of another fpecies that is known
by the name of the rock-maple. With thefe forts of wood, there is not
above a fifth part of the whole Ihip made of oak, in order that the expence
may be as moderate as poflible. When I fpeak of oak, I mean the grey oak ;
the red oak is not much efteemed for fhip-building ; and the white, the beft
of all, does not grow here. The mip-builders maintain, that the faccharine
particles of the beech, the black birch or the maple, are very ferviceablc
for the prefervation of iron, which the faline particles of the oak are apt to
confume. And inftead of ufing tallow for thofe purpofes in fhip-build-
ing to which it has been ufually applied, all the mip-carpenters in
America, now rather make ufe of train-oil, very plentifully laid on.
But this oil is a product of the filhery, and is, befides, one-fifth
cheaper than fait ; fo that it may be doubted, whether the true reafon be
not rather its cheapnefs, than any fuperior fitnefs in the oil, which makes
it to be preferred for thefe ufes. By thefe means, however, the expence
of fhip-building has been reduced, within the laft three or four years, to
half of what it formerly was, to the great emolument of thofe perfons
who purfue this branch of manufacture. Yet, is this manufacture not car-
ried on in all the extent which it might very well attain. The only caufe
of this is the prefent poverty of the inhabitants of thefe parts. When

3 K, this

434 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

this is confidered, it muft rather appear furprilmg, that there mould have
been fo much already done in it*

A little river, which is navigable by fmall veflels, for a mile upwards
from its mouth, empties itfelf into the^creek of Ducktrap, and there drives
a faw-mill of moderate fize, the property ot Meflrs. Alma. I was not a
little furprifed to fee men fawing great blocks of timber, clofe by this
mill ; but, fuch is the praclice throughout America ; and it is owing to
the prefent imperfection of the faw-mills. Two or three other mer-
chants, befide MeiTrs. Alma, are alfo engaged in the coafling trade ; but
the tranfaclions of thofe others, is comparatively inconfiderable.

Draught-oxen coft, here, feventy dollars a pair ; a cow, twenty-eight
dollars ; a fheep, ten or twelve millings. They are purchafed from the
planters, whofe neceffities oblige them to fell. The breed of the cattle
is tolerably good. Sheep are bought at a very low price, from the ifland
of Marthawine, on the coaft of MaiTachufetts ; and thefe fheep, though
of fmall fize, are found to afford a very "good breed, after they have had
a year's keeping in the diftricl: of Maine.

After a poor fupper, and an indifferent night's lodging with Captain
Alma, who, however opulent, continues to live in a miferable log-
houfe, without fuitable fupplies of bread, rum, fugar, or even fleih ; we
renewed our journey along a very bad road, which, however, was not
quite fo bad as the roads of the diftricl of Geneflee. We foon reached
Little-river, another fmall ftream running into Penobfcot, which is not
more navigable than that of Ducktrap, but, like it, drives a fmall faw-
mill. A few folitaries dwell about this bay, almoft every one of whom
is owner of a fmall fiming boat, which is navigated, in the nming, chiefly
by himfclf or his children. Their land lies, like that of all their neigh-
bours, totally uncultivated. The whole more is occupied by fuch fmall
fifhcrmen, who are miferably lodged, miferably clothed, and miferably fed.

The townmip of Belfaft, adjoining that of Little-river, is better fet-
tled, than that through which we laft paffed. The houfes are better,
and are, even in fome inftances, painted: the lands have been brought

into

SY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT L'lANCOURT. 435

into a better condition. This territory was fold thirty years ago, by the
family of WALDO ; and its prefent {late of fuperior improvement feems
to evince, that the uncertainty of the poffeffion of thofe who have fettled
in other townfhips, muft be the chief reafon that occafions them to leave
their lands fo deftitute of culture. A river, that is at the mouth about a
mile broad, but navigable for only three miles upwards, here falls into a
creek, much larger than any one that we had hitherto feen. We were
to pals this river at a place where the accefs is extremely difficult. The
ferry-boat is very fmall, and, for horfes, very inconvenient. We were
waiting for it a whole hour, and thought ourfelves fortunate in reaching
the oppofite bank, when the wind became boifterous, the tide rofe higher
in the river, and our horfes were growing very unruly. The General's
negro conducted over two of the horfes, fwimming. Confiderable
mountains rife immediately adjacent to the bank of the river. Thefe
mountains were the higheft I had yet feen in this tracl: of the country.
The ground interjacent between them and the river's edge is cleared;
not a {lump remained, and trees lay fcattered on the furface. I thought
the meadows to be the beft I had feen, for a long while. In this town-
fhip of Belfaft is a church, the only one in all the Waldo-patent. The
roads become here better, both becaufe the foil is firmer, and becaufe
they are more carefully repaired here, than elfewhere.

It is remarkable, that throughout almoft all the diftric"l of Maine,
the rivers and creeks flow with a {Iraight courfe into the fea, with a
longer or morter length of progrefs, in which they are, in few inflances,
augmented by any auxiliary {breams. The only exceptions from this ge-
ncfal character are, as far as I know, the rivers of Kennebec, Penobfcot,
and Union : there are, I think, no other.

We flopped, at night, at the houfe of a perfon of the name of NI-
CHOLSON, a farmer and landholder of fome eminence. He has lived for
thefe four and thirty years in ProfpecT:, a town{hip which lies along the
coaft, and is contiguous to Belfaft. He poffeffes nearly eighty acres of
land, that has been cleared, and five of thefe in a {late of good cultiva-

3 K 2 tion.

436 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

tion. Thefe are partly in tillage, and partly in the ftate of meadows.
He, this winter, felled one hundred and fifty cords of wood, and between
one and two hundred large trees ; his fons caught cod-fifh and ialmon
to the quantity of about one hundred barrels ; his daughters fpun the
wool of the fheep, and made clothes for the whole family ; they make
fhoes likewife of the hides of the cattle flaughtered for fale, for all who
belong to the houfe, He is content with his lot, and is full of the or-
dinary prejudices of all the old, ignorant hufbandmen of the diftridt of
Maine. But this is the worft that can be faid of him. He thinks it im-
poffible, that wheat mould grow in his neighbourhood, and believes that
even barley and rye will, at the beft, grow but indifferently. He accord-
ingly, fows as much rye and Indian corn as is requifite for the ufe of his
houfehold. Of this they make a fort of fbft bread, which is the ordi-
nary food of the people in this neighbourhood, but which, in other places,
would be given to the dogs. Upon all that confiderable extent of land,
which he has cleared of wood, he keeps only twenty head of black cattle,
including cows, calves, and bullocks ; and from twenty to five and
twenty fheep. One of his fine acres of meadow yields annually fixty
hundred- weight of hay, which is rich with a mixture of natural clover,
and is more than he needs for the ufe of his cattle, which for more than
fix months in the year muft be kept in flails in the houfe. He plants
an acre annually with potatoes ; the produce is often four hundred bufhels,
and even in lefs plentiful years at leaft two hundred and fifty bufhels.
Potatoes find a ready fale throughout the diftricT: of Maine, at the rate
of one {hilling and fixpence or two millings a bufhel.

His land is excellent. His fheep, of which he might keep ten times as
as many as he does, but which he is not defirous to augment, are fine, and
afford, at the annual fhearing, fleeces weighing each fix pounds. That
portion of it, which is not wanted for the ufe of the family, is fold at the
rate of a fhilling a pound, and though it were inferior in quality, would
not fail to fetch an equal price. After all, it is not eafy to fee, how old
Nicholfon can have acquired the reputation of being a good farmer. To
me he appears to differ from the reft, only in pofTeffing a greater extent of

ground

3Y THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 437

ground at a fmaller price, without, however, making, in any degree, a
better ufe of what he has.

There is no fhip-building carried on in this townfhip of Profpecl: ; there
belong to it only fome of thofe decked yachts, which are ufed in the fifhery.

The general bufinefs of the inhabitants is wood-cutting. An able wood-
man will cut down two, or even three, cords of wood in a day. The
ufuai price is feven fhillings a cord. It cofls about a third part of the value
for the conveyance of this wood to the fhore. One who has no oxen of
his own can earn, therefore, ten fhillings a day ; he may earn fourteen
fhillings, if he can convey the wood he cuts down to the fhore. This is
fufficient to make thefe people carelefs of agriculture and hufbandry.
More diflant profpe&s of intereft are too weak to engage them fteadily in
agricultural induflry.

Thofe who neither fell their own wood, nor convey it to the fhore,
pay two fhillings a cord to the labourers for cutting it down, and as
much for its carriage to where it may be fhipped. After this they have
ftill to themfelves a profit of half a dollar a cord. An acre of ground,
that is well wooded, will afford fixty of thefe cords. So they pocket,
even in this cafe, a gain of thirty dollars an acre upon their wood. This
information will not be without its ufe, to perfons who may think of pur-
chafing lands in the diflricl; of Maine. The growing deficiency of wood,
in the vicinity of Bofton, and all along the coaft, muft foon enhance the
market-price of that which remains to be cut in thefe parts.

Our next ftage, after we left farmer Nicholfon, w r as Brigadier's Ifland.
This ifle, with all the others which are not above three miles from the
other more, belong to the eftate of Waldo-patent. It is inhabited by
feven families, among whom it is parcelled out into fo many different
farms. Thefe families have felled the wood around the whole more of
the ifland, and uied that which covered the interior parts according
to their domeftic neceffities and conveniencies. To obtain full pofTeffion
of this ifle, General Knox has offered to the feven families, by whom it is
now occupied, to the amount of three thoufand dollars, in land and ready
money, if they will peaceably relinquiih. it to him.

This

438 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

This ifle is acceffible from the land by a pafTage not more than two
hundred yards in length, which is dry, when the tide has ebbed. It
affords excellent pafture for both great and fmall cattle, and is qualified
to repay, in an adequate manner, all the pains that might be employed
upon it by a fkilful and induftrious hufbandman. The ftones found at
the furface afford reafon for thinking, it contains marble, flate, and iron.
The fituation is favourable for trade. General Knox's interefts draw his
attention particularly towards the ifland, as being in the centre of his
poffeffions. It is his -object to clear this ifle for the purpofe of maintain-
ing in it a fheep-flock. For one month in the year thefe iheep muft be
houfed ; and he intends to build a proper flail for this ufe. He is of opi-
nion, that by refiding there he may obtain considerable fums of money,
owing to him for land in the neighbouring country, which he is willing
to cede to its prefent pofTefTors .at a price below its real value, to avoid all
trouble and difputation.

Mr. GRIFFIN, one of the prefent inhabitants, is building a brig of
eighty-five tons burthen, which he intends for the coafling-trade. It
will coft, when fit for fea, to the amount of two thoufand four hundred
and .fifty dollars, which is about thirty dollars a ton. He has bought al-
moft all the timber neceffary for his purpofe in Penobfcot River, as there
was none of fufficient growth, for this ufe, remaining upon Brigadier's
Ifland.

The townmip of Crankfqrd was the laft place in Waldo-patent that
General Knox intended to vifit. We halted at the houfe of an old farmer,
named Colonel SCHULTZ. He pofTefTes, with the permifiion of the
General, three farms lying on Penobfcot River, about ten miles inland
from its mouth. Though but an indifferent farmer, he had fet himfelf
in oppofition to the common prejudices againfl wheat. He fowed fome
acres with it, which yielded him a return of fifteen bufhels an acre.
This year his wheat is fmutty ; the grain is fmall, gray, and light, not
yielding above a tenth part of the ufual proportion of meal. He raifes
likewife good Indian corn, the return of which is at the rate of twenty
bufhels an acre. But his ploughing is flight ; he lays on little manure ;

nor

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 439

nor can the quality of the foil, nor the fituation of his grounds, be com-
mended. His potatoe-fields yield much the fame increafe as thofe of
tarmer Nicholfon. He has been fettled here for thefe eight and twenty
years ; yet, out of three hundred acres, which he poflefTes, has not brought
more than five and twenty under culture.

But a fmall quantity of cod is caught at the bottom of the bay, or
in Penobfcot River. In the months of June and July, all hands are
employed in the falmon-fimery. They are often taken with the har-
poon, but more commonly with nets, while the tide ebbs. The inhabi-
tants, in particular, of one fmall tracl: of land, which juts out into the fea>
derive great profit from this fifhery. It is there ufual for a fmgle family
to take in a feafon from ten to fixty barrels of falmon, weighing, each
barrel, two hundred pounds, and fetching in the market the price of
eight dollars. The fhore of Brigadier's Ifland is famous for the plentiful
captures of lalmons upon it. For fome years this fifhery has been leis
fuccefsful than formerly. It has hitherto been very little fortunate in
the prefent year. For this failure the Indians are blamed, who live a
hundred miles higher up, on the banks of Penobfcot River. They are
wont to fim every day in the year, which hinders the neceflary annual
renewal of the numbers of the falmons. The Americans, on the con-
trary, are accuftomed to refrain from fiming for two whole months in the
year together, and always upon Sundays.

Thefe Indians dwell in a plcafant village by the river fide. They live,
like the reft of the Indians, without making regular yearly provifion for
the fupply of their wants, but approach, in their manners, fomewhat
nearer to civility. They belong to a tribe, which the French MifTionaries
almoft converted, or, at leaft, fuppofed, that they had converted,, to the
Catholic religion. This territory falling afterwards into the pofTemon of
Britain, and fince, of the American States, the Catholic religion ceafed
to be preached to the Indians at the expence of the government. At
prefent there lives a French prieft among them, from whom they
have learned the doclrine of tranfubftantiation ; but neither the duty
and advantage of temperance, nor the principles and pradice of agricul-
ture,

440 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

ture, nor the injuftice and folly of wafting the beft means for the fupp or
of the country by deftroying the falmons at an improper feafon. Thefe
Indians bring, every year, a large quantity of beavers, otters, foxes, and
racoon fkins, for fale to the merchants on the river. Thefe ikins are
purchafed at a very low price ; and they receive rum in exchange.

Penobfcot River is navigable as far as the tide riles, that is, for the
fpace of thirty miles from its mouth. For fmall boats it is acceffi-
ble to the diftance of one hundred miles higher up. On its courfe it
waters feveral beautiful diftricls of country filled with wood, and runs
out into many creeks ; all of which are fufficient to drive a number of
mills. Up to the limit of the rifmg of the tide its banks are inhabited.
After advancing along them to a certain diftance, you enter the territo-
ries which ftill pertain to the Indians.

The veiTels belonging to this river are not more than twenty, of which
two are employed in the trade to Europe. Thefe two belong to Mr.
TREAT, a merchant, who has his principal place of refidence near that
part of the courfe of the river, above which the tide ceafes to rife ; and
poffefTes feveral ftorehoufes, at different diftances, along the river's fide.
In the-fpace often years, during which he has lived here, he has acquired,
in trade, a considerable property. The reft purfue the coafting trade, or,
in the years in which this does not promife fuccefs, a trade with the Weft
India Iflands. From all that I could learn, I am led to think, that timber
of all forts may be had cheap here, as well as in every other part of the
diftri& of Maine which I had occafion to vifit. Ship-building is here at
the rate of twenty-fix dollars and two-thirds a ton. During this whole year
there have not been more than five built in the river. The want of ca-
pital is the only reafon why fo little is done in this branch of bufirtels.
It is true, that, on account of the prefent war in Europe, the expence is
now much greater than it formerly was; but, in the preceding years,
when the expence was fmaller, the number of vcflels built was not more
confiderable.

The whole townfhip of Belfaft lies within the county of Hancock. A

great

BY THE DUKE E LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIAXCOttRT. 441

great part of it is (till inhabited ; and its whole population does not ex-
ceed ten thoufand fouls upon a diftrict of eleven thoufand four hundred
iquare miles in extent. Penobfcot is the capital town.

Waihington, a county lying fomewhat more to the north, and bor-
dering upon the pofleffions of the Britifh, pofleffes/ on a wider extent of
territory, a population of more than three thoufahd inhabitants.

Penobfcot is ilill known by the Indian name of Bagadus. The expor-
tation from it is not considerable. The value of thefe exports amounted>
in the year 1/91, to ten thoufand eight hundred and fifty-four dollars; in.
the year 1/92, to eight thoufand three hundred and fifteen dollars ; in

1793, to nineteen thoufand three hundred and twcnty-fcvcn dollars; i

1 794, to five thoufand eight hundred and twenty-five dollars ; in 1 7Q5,
to four thoufand nine hundred and forty-nine dollars ; reckoning the year*
from the beginning of October, to the end of September.

I believe that Penobfcot River is very juftly deemed the moft fa-
vourable fituation for the commerce of this province. It may be fafeU
affirmed, that any company or individual poflefling a confiderable capital,
tend knowing how to lay it out in improvements, and in the trade natu-
rally connected with this fituation, might fettle here with no fmall ad-
vantage. A confiderable number of veflels might be built, if all the
wood from the lands were appropriated to this ufe, and if every day were
carefully dedicated to inceflant induftry. The faw-mills would render
the wood of great value ; and it would quickly be fcen, that the prefent
iaw-mills are fufceptible of improvement, which would render them much
more profitable than they now are : particularly in the cutting of mingles,
and in breaking the bark of the ipruce-fir, as is now done in che vicinity
of Bofton for the ufe of the tanners, there might be great improvement
made. In winter the vefTels might be freighted with mules and horfes,
reared here, for the ufe of the Weft India ifles ; for thefe animals will be
bred here in very great numbers, when example, and a certainty of ad-
vantageous fale, fhall have duly encouraged the planters to attend to this
branch of farming. Salt-fim, too, either procured by purchafe from
others, or by keeping fifhing veiTels, would find a good market in the Weft
India ifles. Thefe ifles might be fupplied alfo with cattle from this pro-

3 L

4J2 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

vince, as it is capable of producing prodigious numbers of them. Another
product for the fame exportation is corn, which will infallibly afford great
profits to this country, when once a fpirit of agriculture fball have been
fufficiently excited throughout it. In this manner might fuch a company
or individual, as was above alluded to, gradually clear the land of its
wood, and bring it into a good ilate of cultivation, while, its exportable
products would afford a good income, and the example would be of infinite
utility to the whole country. Betide all this, there fhould be a mop or
two furnimed with the irfual articles for the confamptioii of the country ;
for fuch mops as I have already had occafion to notice, prove extremely lu-
crative to thofe who employ a number of labourers. The confequence would-
be the fpecdy acquifition of a large fortune by the company or individual
by whom thefe meafures mould be puriued. The increafe of their means
would naturally enlarge their concerns, and render them more profitable;

Exportation, the grand fource of profit to a great landholder, both on
account of the prefent advantage which it yields, and becaufe it tends to
enhance the prices of all commodities, is more neceflary in the province
of Maine, than in many other places. The emigrants make little refort
to this province. The, diftrict of GenefTee, and the back parts of Penn-
fyb'ania, Kentucky, and all the weftern parts where the climate 1 is milder,
the foil more fertile, and the land cheaper, are naturally preferred. The
difference between the abundant population of Geneflce, which was,
within thefe laft ten years, in the porTeffion of the Indians, and the fcanty
number of families, fcattered throughout the province of Maine, of which
the greater part w r as, an hundred years fince, reduced into a colonial ter-
ritory, is an undeniable proof of the truth of what is here affirmed, which
ought certainly to have its weight with the great landholders of this pro-
vince. It may, indeed, be reafonably expected, that there wiH be a gra-
dual influx of fettlers into this region, from the great increafe of the po-
pulation of MafTachufetts. The wilds of Maine may be thus at length
inhabited ; and then the value of land will rife, and there will be an in-
creafe of manufacturing and commercial induftry, to the great advantage
both of the land-owners and the merchants.

In fomc places, labourers are procured pretty eafily ; and the wages, for

any

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOUKT. 443

any confiderable time together, are there at the fame rate, as in the dif-
tricls beyond Bofton, already defcribed.

The country is healthful, though much colder than the great land-
holders are willing to allow. Fogs and rains are more frequent here than
in the more fouthern parts of America. The maritime iituation of the
province of Maine, contributes, no doubt, to increafe the humidity of its
atmofphere. The perpetual dampnefs on the fea coaft produces a greater
occafion for warm and conftant fires there, than in the interior parts.
But, however rigorous the climate, it is fufficiently favourable to the pro-
duction of maize, and of excellent hay. Nor is there any juft reafon for
fuppofmg, that wheat and other grains would not thrive in it, if carefully
cultivated.

Life is ufually long and healthy in this province. It is not uncommon
to meet with old men of the age of eighty, or ninety years, though the
general condition of the people be but miferable, at leaft in that part of
the country through which I accompanied General Knox. Save the
brothers ALMAS, we found none who could be faid to be even mode-
rately intelligent. They are univerfally poor, or at leaft live as if they
were fo in an extreme degree. The habitations are every where poor,
low huts. Every where, you find a dirty, dark-coloured rye-meal, and that
not in fufficient quantity. The fort of frcfh meat to be feen on any table,
is that of lambs, which are killed, not fo much for the fake of procuring
a good dim, as to prevent the fheep-ftock from becoming more numerous
than is defired. In fhort, of all America, the province of Maine is the
plsce that afforded me the worft accommodation. And, confidering how
little reafon I found to praife the accommodations of many other places ;
what 1 have now faid of Maine muft be regarded as an affirmation, that
the condition of human life in that place is exceedingly wretched.

The common drink here, and throughout all America, is grog, or N a
mixture of water with rum or whiilcy. It is made alfo w r ith gin or
brandy, but not in thefe parts.

A fort of beer, made from the twigs of the fpruce-fir, is likewife drunk
here. MolaiTes, and occasionally maple-tree fugar, are joined with the
fpruce twigs, in brewing this beverage.

3 L 2 Here

444 TRAVELS IX N'OKTH AMEHlCA,

Here is alfb another fort of beer, much like the former ; but it Is brew-
ed from the young twigs of the birch, inftead of thofe of the fpruce-fir.

Both thefe liquors are very common in MaiTachufetts and in Canada.
Many people are fond of them ; to me they are difagreeable.

All the fettlers in Waldo-patent, a very few excepted, occupy lands to
which they have no juft right. But they are of two different claffes ; of
which one confifts of perfons who have fettled here by the permiffion of
the General or his ftewards, and are to pay a certain purchafe-money at
a future time ; but the others neither afked nor obtained any fuch per*
miflion. The condition of the former may appear to be more fecure than
that of the latter. But then this laft clafs is fo much the more numerous,
that the General will probably find it neceffary to treat them all alike.
All acknowledge that they muft pay a certain rent or purchafe-money ;
but neither do they offer ready money, nor fix any precife time for pay-
ment. The General encounters all the perplexity and difficulties of this
bufmefs with the firmeft fteadinefs, and the moft extraordinary patience.

PRICE OF WOOD IN THE PROVINCE OF MAINE.

I was induced to form the following table of the prices of different
forts of timber in different places of this province, by confidering that it
might become hereafter a matter of fome curiofity to compare the fu-
ture variations in the price of wood, with that for which it is fold at this
prefent time.

I have added a view of the prices of other produces of this province,
according to the mod complete and accurate information that I could
obtain. This alfb will ferve for a fixed point in the fcale of the varia-
tions of price, which thefe produces may hereafter undergo.

1 have given likewife a view of the expences and the returns of a late
voyage of a fchooner to England, which was communicated to me by
Colonel Schultz,

PRICE

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

445

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446 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

Expences and returns of a voyage performed by the Dolphin fchooner,
of Cufhing, in the province of Maine, one hundred and twenty-two
tons burthen, 'Captain BAYENTON, commander, in the months of May.
June, and July, 17Q5, in the fpace of three months wanting five days ;
'from Camden to Liverpool, and from Liverpool back to Bofton.

' ' Dollars. Dollars.

-Expenditure by the merchants freight 44O

Captain's wages for the voyage '166
Pilot's wages, twenty dollars a month 60

Four failors, eighteen dollars a month 1Q2

Provifions 120 978

Prime Coft of tJie Cargo at Camden.

100 tons of oak, at three dollars a ton 300

1 4,OOO oak ftaves, at eight dollars a thoufand 112
2000 feet of deal, at fix dollars a thoufand feet 1 2

Duties paid in England 2.25

Occafional expences 156 1783

Purchafed in England

42^tons of fait, at three {killings and four pence fterl. 33 1

2/2 bufhels of pit coal, at three pence fterl. a bulhel 14 345

Duties on the fait at Boflon 42 o

Total expenditure 2548

'Receipts of the Merchants Sales at Liverpool.

4000 feet, or 100 tons of oak, at three millings a

foot, or twenty dollars a ton 20CO
14,ooo oak flaves, at forty-three dollars a thoufand '630
2000 feet of deal, at forty-five dollars QO 2720

Salts

PV THE UKE DE LA ROCRliFOUCAULT LIANCOURTv 447

Sales at Bojlon.

Dollars;
420 tons of fait, at four dollars, 85 2066

272 bulhels of pit coal < 96 21 64;

Total receipts 4884

Total expenditure 2548

Clear profit to the merchant 2336

This great profit is not to be fo furely reckoned upon, as if the fame
cargo for the returning voyage were always to be eafily obtained in Engr
land. Yet.it affords certain data, from which may be inferred what a
confiderable benefit, this- foreign trade affords in return for a moderate exr-
penditure.

But I repeat, that this country is ftill in its infancy > and in a languid
and cheerlefs infancy. The taxes are much heavier than in any newly
fettled country I have as yet vifited. Mr. Sehultz, by whom I am inr
formed of the facl, pays twenty dollars a year. Among thefe taxes is one
for the fupport of fchools, though no fchools have, hitherto been efta,-
blifhed.

FARTHER OBS.E1? VATIONS

CONCERNING THE PJU3YINCE OF MAINE.

There is no houfe for religious worfhip in this province, neither in the
diftricl: of Belfaft, nor in Penobfcot. Penobfcot is the only town in thefe
parts, and it confifb of near a thouiand houfes. A poor preacher lives in
thefe parts, who has only a very few hearers, to whom he preaches at
different places every fecond Sunday, and who pay him at the rate of
four dollars each. Throughout all America, the building of a new
church, for every parochial dillri^t, is confide red as a very burthenfome
expense. Here, therefore, the people rather pay a certain consideration,

leaving

448 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

leaving the preacher to find a houfe for himfelf. The young people cf
both fexes, however, efpecially the young women, are very defirous of* a
church, in which they might have an opportunity to aiTemble every
week, and to difplay their perfons and their drefs. In New England
they refrain, on Sunday, with weak fuperftition, even from the moil
harmlefs fports. But, it is, in truth, becaufe it affords them an opportu-
nity of going from home, and meeting with their neighbours, that thefc
people are fo fond of vifiting the church.

There is, in this country, a great lack of medical practitioners, at leaft
of perfons whofe fkill is worthy of the name. The people are not here,
.either fufficiently numerous, or fufficiently opulent, to make it eligible
for fkilful furgeons or phyficians to fettle among them. The furgeon's
employment is exercifed at prefent by people w T ho are engaged in other
purfuits, and therefore make this but their occafional bufinefs, and who
are fo ignorant as fcarcely to know how to let blood with fafety to the.
patient. In the ftate of MaiTachufetts, any perfon is at liberty to afTumi
the profeffion of medicine at his plcafure ; and it is certainly 3 difgrace
to the legiflature, that the health and lives of thcfe fimple and credulous
people mould be in fuch a manner expofed a prey to ignorance, impu-
dence, and quackery.

When General Knox had accomplifhed his bufinefs, we went on board
the fchooner, which I mentioned above, hoping that, within four hours,
we mould reach the General's houfe. It was ten o'clock in the morn-
ing when we went on board, and the wind was favourable. But the
wind mifted on a iiidden, the weather became ftorrny, our progrefs
w r as confiderabl}' interrupted, and we lay-to till the florm was over.

Next morning we found, that w r e could not yet make way, -and there-
fore retired again to another creek, about fix miles nearer than the former
to the place to which we were going, but ftill fifteen miles diftanfe from
where we were to take our way for St. George's River. The weather
was now fair, and General Knox, who is not at all fond of navigation,
thought it would be better to go on ihore, alluring me that we fliould be

able

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

able to procure horfes from Captain Alma, which would quickly carry
us to St. George's River. We were not far from Ducktrap. Upon our
arrival at the Captain's houfe, we were encountered by new difficulties.
We had to wait for our own horfes, which were comifig under the care
of the poft ; and this happened to be the only place in all the province of
Maine, in which the travelling of the poft is fomewhat retarded by the
frequency of the plantations. The horfes, whofe arrival was expected to
be about noon, came fix hours later. We were thus obliged to pafs the
night in a dirty houfe ; and, in the mean time, the wind had changed,
and our fchooncr was gone on her way, much farther than would have
been fufficient to conduct us to the end of our journey. Thefe incon-
venient occurrences were fumVientJy difagreeable to me ; for, having fo
far to travel, I had now rather too little time remaining for my fubfc-
qucnt journey ; and I had wimed to fpend ibme fliort time longer with
General Knox and his family.

DEPARTURE FROM THE HOUSE OF GENERAL KNOX.

On the 3d day of October, four and twenty hours after our arrival at
St. George's, I w r as obliged to fet out for Bofton. I had experienced
fuch friendly entertainment from General Knox and his family, that it
was with real concern I left them. They did not treat me as a ftranger,
but with the kind and eafy attentions which are paid to one who is at
once a relation and a friend. Mrs. Knox is a lady, of whom you con-
ceive ftill a higher opinion, the longer you are acquainted with her.
Seeing her at Philadelphia, you think of her but as a fortunate player at
whift. At her own houfe in the country, you difcover her to poffefs
wit, intelligence, a good heart, an excellent underftanding. In the
country, MifsKnox lays afide her exceffive timidity, and you admire alike
her beauty, wit, and cheerfulnefs. As for Mrs. Flunker, you find her in-
terefting at a firft acquaintance, and no lefs fo upon a longer familiarity.
I fay nothing of the General. I have already faid he is one of the wor-
thicft men 1 have known : cheerful, agreeable, valuable equally as an
excellent friend and an engaging companion. With a heart warmly

3 M grateful

450 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMKRlCA,

grateful for fo much kindnefs, I took my leave of this worthy family ;
and gratitude is the moft plealing feeling of which my prefent fituation
leaves me capable. The whole family fliw me depart, with the fame
kind concern, as if I had been a near relation; and perhaps nothing could
be more intereftingly afFecling than this fcene.

From St. George's to Warren the fettlcrs are not numerous. This
diftricl: extends to Thomaftown, where the General refides. About
twenty houfes ftand at the place, beyond which the tide cqafos to rife.
There are two or three fawing-mills, corn-mills, and waulk-mills, two or
three fhops, and two or three fmall merchants. The river there ccafcs
to be navigable, on account of a number of rocks that rife in the niidft
of its channel. A canal is to be cut here, with the General's permiiiion,
by which the river will be made navigable for lixty or fevcnty miles 'far-
trier than at prefent. It may be cut without any very confiderable diffi-
culty, and will prove of the greateft advantage to the General and his
pofterity. The foil is moderately good, but its cultivation is neglected
The back-parts I have not feen ; but all the fettlers who live contiguous
to the river, if they can fell their wood, think not, any more than the
reft throughout the province of Maine, of applying themfelves to the
tillage of their grounds, and the improvements of hufbandrv.

WALDOBOROUGH ; BROADBAY ; NOBLEBOROUGH ; NEW-
CASTLE.

The next diftricl; is Waldoborough. It is a German fettlement, formed
forty years ago by Brigadier-General Waldo. Three years afterwards, he
brought hither fome German families, and affigned to each of them one
hundred acres of ground. It is in a ftate of profperity. The families,
which were, originally, forty in number, have increafed to two hundred
and fifty. Fifty other planters, Irifh, Englim, and Americans, live alfo
here. But, it is requrfite for thefe to underftand German, as this is the
language ccmmonly fpoken throughout the diftri<5l : though all the Ger-
man inhabitants read Englilh, and have the laws and the proceedings of

their

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAITLT LIANCOURT. 451

their courts of juftice in that language. The German is, however, the
common language of trade, and of familiar intercourse.

Broadbay is formed by an arm of the fea which here advances inland.
A fmall river, the courfe of which is for fome thirty miles, falls into
this bay. Like the other rivers of this territory, it is not navigable.
Trees may be floated, fmgly, down the ftream, but in no other v. a v,
from the diftance often or twelve miles above. The interior extremity
of the bay lies about ten miles inland. Three or four vefiels are annually
built here. To this place belong eight mips, of which only three carry
three mafts. Thefe are almoft all, either the property of the merchants
of Wifcailct and that neighbourhood, or elfc arc, at leaft, annually
freighted by thofe merchants. An Irilh merchant, who has refidcd for
thefe feveral years in Waldoborough, does bufmcfs in this way, on his own
account, and with good fuccefs. A cargo of wood can be quickly pro-
cured at Waldoborough ; but the price is here fomewhat higher, thai) in
St. George's River, or the Bay of Penobfcot.

The buildings arc fituated on the declivity of the hills ; on the edges
of the bay ; and are pretty numerous ; but arc imall, and make as fbrry
an appearance as any I have lately feen. The quality of the foil is mo-
derately good. From fifteen to eighteen bumels of maize, twenty bumcls
of barley, fifteen bumels of rye, is the ordinary produce from an acre of
ground ; three hundred buihels is the ufual encreafe of potatoes from
one acre. Each family keeps from fifteen to twenty head of cattle.
The fear of the bears and wolves, which are numerous in thefe parts,
does not hinder thefe people from driving out their cattle to feed in the
woods. Though one part of the herd ihould be, to-day, devoured by
the bcafts of prey; the reft would, neverthelefs, be driven out, to feed in
the woods, to-morrow : but fuch accidents are rare. There is no in-
ftance of children having been attacked. I myfelf, in my journey of
this day, and at tlve diftance of a mile from Waldoborough, law a bear
of a confiderable lixe, running acrofs the road. I purfued him on horfe-
back, without leaving the road, and he ran away with great fpecd.

Broadbay is the boundary of Waldo-patent, and the centre of Waldo-

3 M 2 borough.

452 TEAVELS IX NORTH AMERICA,

borough. The houies of this laft place lie fcattered around the bay, the
environs of which are much more populous than the territory through
which I had travelled hitherto. I was told, that, fonie miles inland, both
the foil and the husbandry are better, and the fettlcments more nume-
rous.

Waldo-patent lies in the county of Lincoln, which contains about
thirty thoufand inhabitants. The county-courts are held at Hallovvell,
Pownalborough and Waldoborough. Thomaftown, where General
Knox refides, lies alfo in the county of Lincoln, which, however, does
not extend beyond Belfaft.

Nobleborough, the next townfhip, is much more populous than the kilt,
and exhibits great diverfity in the appearance of its houfes, and the wcaUli
or poverty of its different inhabitants. This diitricl has likevviic its Bay
of Damafcobay, which extends ten or twelve miles inland. A few toifcs
from the inmoft point of this bay, is a lake of freili water, not lefs than fifty
miles in the extent of its area. Such lakes are frequent throughout this
part of the country. They abound in fiih, of which, however, the inha-
bitants make no ufe. The quantity is not fufficient, to make it an ob-
jet ot trade, to fait, and carry them to market ; and thefe people are too
negligent, to fifli for the fupply of their own tables. There are fome
.thips built in Damafcobay ; and of thefe the greater part are employed by-
the merchants of WifcafTet.

The diilricT: of Newcaftle has, likewife, a bay ; or rather, is intcriccled.
by the river Steepfent, which runs by Wifcailet. At Nevvcaftle, this
river is acceffible for ftiips of burthen : it admits fmall veifels, for fome
miles farther up. There are two mips at prefent in building at Newcaitle.
You crofs the river by a ferry, \vhich is convenient and fafe. A bridge is
about to be built here;, and the ferryman is much lefs concerned lor the
probable lofs which it will occafion to him, of his prefent income, than
pleafed, that he is to be thus releafed from that inceffant watchfulnefs
and toil of the ferry.

The road along which I, this day, travelled, was rugged, obftrucled by-
rocks and roots of trees, often miry, paffing over great inequalities of

ground^

BY TH1! DUKE DE LA ROCITEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 453

ground, and worft in the woods, through which a great part of it led.
Worthy General Knox conducted me, eight miles on my journey, and
directed me to the dwelling of an honeit German, a furgcon, who, in
favourable years, gains from fixty to eighty dollars by his practice, and
who told me, that, for twenty miles round, there is 110 other medical
practitioner. This honeil man accompanied me, till I was no longer in
danger of wandering from the way ; and refufed to receive money for
my dinner, which I carneftly offered him. He has fix children, all mar-
ried, and a fmall farm of forty acres, which, as he told me, is not very
well cultivated. But, he fays, he has enough, and does not covet riches.
He, on a former year, remitted three hundred dollars to Philadelphia, to
procure a German m miller, to whom he now pays thirty dollars a year,.
bcfidcs his juft iliarc of the congregational contribution. On the whole,.
this man is an eccentric character.

WISCASSET.

Mr. L/EE, whom I faw at the houfe of General Knox, had afked me*
to take my lodging at his houfe, when I fbould come to WifcafTet. I did
io. He is a lawyer ; and he appeared to me, to be one of the bell em-
ployed ones in the whole country. He has an elegant houfe ; is a very
worth v man; gave me a kind reception ; and cxprelTed his concern that
his wife, who went lately on a vifit to Boflon, was not at home, to make
my entertainment better.

WifcaHet, fituated on the bav of Pcnobfcot, is the firil place in trie-
province of Maine, in which any confiderable hufmefs is tranfacled. The
merchants are not very rich, but they are very numerous ; and, as I have
already mentioned, proprietors of almoft all the veflels which fail from
the neighbouring creeks and bays. Some individuals among them pofTefs
to the number of fix or feven mips. They hire out for freight, thofe
which are not required for the carriage of their own traffic ; and the pre-
fent fituation of Europe affords- great fcope to this carrying-trade of the
Americans, which they find to be very profitable, though not without its
rifks. Mr. SWAN of Bofton has hired a great quantity of tonnage, for
the purpofe of exporting corn and flour to France.

There:

454 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMEIUCA,

There belong fifty mips to Wifcaflct. Ten of thefe fail to Europe, on
account of merchants living in this place. They export the produ&s of
the country, and bring back, in return, to Boilon, foreign goods, for
which there is no fale in the province of Maine.

WifcaiTet lies at the diftance of twelve miles from the fea ; and for this
reafon, there live but few of fhip-mafters at this fmall port. Thcfe
people have their dwellings along the coaft. They would 1 fe half their
preferit gains, if they fettled at any distance from it. This town is pretty
compacl, and comrfts of about one hundred and fifty houfes, fome of
which are very handfome. In the year 1/89, the whole traffic of this
diltricT: was carried on in thirty-five velTels, which did not carry, in all,
above two thoufand and ninety tons. In 1 795, and not later than the 10th
day of October, the number of fliips regiftered was one hundred and two,
and their tonnage, nine thoufand nine hundred and forty-four tons.
Thefe fa&s evince, to what an extraordinary pitch, even the folc bufinefs
of fliip-building is capable of advancing the trade and opulence of the
people of thefe parts. The exports amounted, in the year 1 79 1 , to thirty-
five thoufand five hundred and fixty-two dollars; in the year 1792, to
thirty-nine thoufand two hundred and fifty-three dollars ; in 1793, to
thirty-fix thoufand four hundred and eighty-three dollars ; in 1794, to
thirty- two thoufand three hundred and thirty dollars ; in 1795, to thirty-
four thoufand fix hundred and fifty-nine dollars. The fmallnefs of the
variations in the amounts of the money-prices of the total exports, in thefe
fucceffive years ; while the market- value of thofe provifions of which
this exportation confiils, has been continually rifing ; evinces the truth
of what I affirmed concerning the fhips of Wifcaffet, as being em-
ployed chiefly in the carry ing- trade, and taking in their ladings at other
ports.

KENNEBECK RIVER.

The road lies along the interior extremity of the bay. As it advances
towards Bofton, the appearance of mduftry and bufinefs encreafes ; the
houfes become larger and handfomcr. Volwick-bay lies not far from
Wifcailet. One or two fmall veffels have been built in it ; feveral corn

and

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUC AULT LIANCOURT. 455

and fa wing- mills ftand upon the fmall rivers which fall into it; and
in thefe the upper rocks form a fort of natural dam to accumulate
the water for the ufe of the mills. The land between Kenncbeck -river
and Wifcaflct, is ftony, yet fertile. It is everywhere inhabited, yet but
in a moderate ftate of cultivation. Of ten miles journey, by this way,
fcarce a quarter of a mile lies through woods. Kennebeck-river is to be
crofTed by a ferry. The river is here about half a mile broad ; and the
paffagc is faid to be fometimes dangerous, though I found it fafe and eafy.
Both the winds and tide \vere favourable ; and, in five minutes, I reached
the farther fhore. Both the ferryman and his boat are very good.

Kennebeck is one of the great rivers of the province of Maine. Its
fource is two hundred miles diftant from its mouth, and it waters the
fineft woodlands in this region. It is navigable to the diftance of fifty
miles upward from its mouth ; but, this navigation is greatly obftrucled
by rocks and fand-banks. There are fhips built at Hallowell, which
Hands at the diftance of forty miles up the river : but, thcfe receive their
lading at Bath, fix miles below the ferry by w r hich I pafTed. The wood
felled at Hallowell and places contiguous to it, is conveyed down to Bath
in fledges or boats, and is, then, received on board the fhips. The en-
trance into Kenncbeck-river is fo dangerous, that mips failing with this
deftination, if infured at London, pay a higher premium, than thofe
bound for any other bay, harbour, or river, on thefe coafts ; at leaft I was
fo informed.

There belong forty fhips to this river. Thefe are, for the greater part,
the property of merchants who have their counting-houfes in Bath, and
their dwelling-houfes in either Bath or Hallowell. The reft belong to
merchants refident in Wifcaflet or Portland. The banks of the river are
inhabited to the diftance of one hundred and thirty miles inland. That
trad of land which Is watered by no other river, is, in one direction, oc-
cupied to the extent of eighty or one hundred miles.

Hallowell is, as I was informed, a town confifting of two hundred
houfes. Another town of the fame name, and not lefs considerable, is
fituate two miles higher on the fame river. They afford, both, a mar-
ket

456 TRAVKLS IN* NORTH AMERICA,

ket for the produce of the lands ; which is very abundant ; for the foil i*
excellent, and wheat and other grains are cultivated upon it. There is
alfo a great deal of wood brought down Kennebeck River ; bat the wood
contiguous to the ihores of the river, and adjacent to the plantations and
dwellings, now begins, as may naturally be fuppofed, to be cxhaulted.
The large wood is cut, as I am told, at the diltance of twenty miles
above Hallowell. Thofe who derive their principal means of fupport
from the fale of this article, are wont to wander into the deep w r oods, in
the month of November, with their families and cattle, often to the
drftance of from forty to ilxtv miles from their ordinary habitations.
They are previoufly careful to provide hay in the furnmer, by going into
thefe woods, mowing the grafs, and putting it up in ricks, for the ufe of
their cattle, when they mail return in the winter. They now rear huts
for themfelves ; fell their wood ; bring it, on fledges, to the river's fide ;
and there referve it, till the river is fo much fwollen by rains as to con-
vey it, eafily, floating down the ftream. They mark, each his trees with
a particular mark, before committing them to the ftream, fo that the
property of every different wood-cutter can be diftinguithcd at the place
of fhipping, without difpute or miftake. Unlefs the excellivc fcverity of
the winter drive them from the woods, fooner than they intended, they re-
turn not until April or May ; and they then apply themielves to the culti-
vation of their lands. Bath is the feat of a cuftom-houfe, or a port of entry
as they call it. Its exports amounted, in the year 17Q1, to the value
of twenty -nine thoufand four hundred and fifty-feven dollars; in 1/<J2,
to thirty-feven thoufand and two dollars; in 17Q3, to forty-five thou-
iand three hundred and fifty-one dollars; in 17<J-1, to twenty- three
thoufand fix hundred and forty-four dollars; in l/<j5, to thirty- four
thoufand fix hundred and fifty-nine dollars.

In the diftricl of Bnmfwick, which borders on that of Bath, the foil
is, in general, poor, and almoft everywhere a dry fluid. It affords no
trees, but the white fir, the white birch, and the iilver fir, none of which
is of any very confiderable growth. It is but very imperfectly cleared and
cultivated. Few habitations are to be feen. On the road, I found only two

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIAXCOURT. 457

or three fmall villages, or rather hamlets. The firft of them, at which I
dined, confifts of thirty or forty houfes. Of thefe, fome are pretty neat.
The people who live at fuch a diftance from" the fea-coaft, have no em-
ployments but thofe of hufbandry, and fome occafional hunting. The
land ufually yields, an acre, twenty-five bumels of maize, one hundred
and fifty bumels of potatoes, eighteen bumels of rye. The culture which
it receives, is but little. There is a little wheat, and fome barley, like-
wife raifed here.

The vicinity of the fea, and the high wages which failors have, for
fome time, been wont to receive, produces, among the young people, a
very general preference for a fea-faring life. Labourers in agriculture are,
confequently, more difficult to be procured, and demand higher wages ;
they expect ten or eleven dollars a month. The meadows yield a good
deal of hay. This is an article of primary neceffity ; for the cattle muft
be kept, for fix or feven months of the year, in the ftalls ; and during this
time, hay is their only forage. Each cow or bullock confumes nearly
fix thoufand pounds of hay, and feventy or eighty bumels of maize.

The other village in Brunfwick, which I paiTed through, lies five miles
farther. The thirty or forty families which live here together, at the
mouth of the Amareikoghin, are ufually employed in fhip-building, and
fome little traffic. Three mips have been lately built here ; and other
ten belong, alfo, to this fmall town. But, almoft all the veflels built in
thefe creeks, are the property of merchants who refide in the more con-
fiderable neighbouring towns. Moft of the houfes of this fmall place,
{land on the more of the bay of Cafco. This bay, of which one arm is
of great extent, advances, here, thirty miles inland. Ships built in Brunf-
wick, or belonging to it, take in their ladings at Brick Iflands, ten miles
farther down the bay. The bay of Cafco again attracts the traveller's
notice near Trueport, a neighbouring townmip, in which the fhip-build-
ing bufinefs is not carried on to greater extent than here, and of which
the land is as dry and fandy as that of Brunfwick, in thofe places where
the two townlhips are conterminous, but becomes better at a diftance
from that border.

3 N NORTH

458 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

NORTH YARMOUTH.

North Yarmouth has the appearance of a fmall town. A number of
houfes, and of labourers of all forts, are here ailembled upon one fpot. It
lies on a fmall creek of the bay of Cafco, where it receives the waters of
Royal River ; a ftream of which the courfe is only fifty-eight miles from
its head to the fea, and which is navigable only by fmall boats. This
little fpot of earth is the fcene of a great deal of bufmefs. Three mips,
of which one was of one hundred and fifty tons burthen, were lately built
here ; not to reckon two others, which were begun in the prefent year,
and are already in the water. Here are mills of different kinds. The land
is fomewhat better cultivated, in this neighbourhood. The fea is too far
diftant, to draw the people away from agriculture, to the fifhery. The
houfes are of better ftruclure than elfewhere, in that part of this diftrict,
through which the highway leads. Potalhes are now becoming an ar-
ticle of trade. Some few merchants have their dwellings in North Yar-
mouth. Three or four agree to build a fhip jointly, and trade with it :
the captain adds his mare : a cargo is fhipped on board it, for the com-
mon account of the company: a voyage is then made, perhaps to the
Antilles, or to Europe : and by the return of the veflel, a foreign cargo is
imported to Bofton. It is not, however, common for mips to fail for
Europe, or the Antilles, from this port. For the moft part, thefe vef-
fels are employed in carrying wood to Bofton or New York ; though the
price of wood be higher here than in the places before mentioned, and
amount even to ten or twelve millings a cord. The fettlements extend
about feventy miles backward from North Yarmouth, into the interior
country.

PORTLAND.

I came, on Sunday, to Portland ; and was furprifed to find the inns fb
decent and well kept, in a part of the country fo remote, and fo rarely
vifited by travellers. The inn at North Yarmouth is fmall, yet good ;
and few hofteffes in France, are fo attentive as Mrs. COTA. Between

North

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCIIEPOUCAULT LIANCOUKT. 45Q

North Yarmouth and Portland, the land is moderately fertile, and at the
fame time coniiderably populous. The many fmall wooden houfes to
be feen, being constructed, in no very ftrong nor elegant manner, of logs
or deals, do not indicate, by their exterior appearance, either wealth or
clearilinefs. An European traveller is, therefore, not a little furprifed to
fee a number of elegant v/omen come out of thefe huts, all wearing
fafhionable hats and head-dreffes with feathers, handfome cloaks, and
the reft of their drefs fuitable to this. Such is the mow which thefe fe-
males make, every Sunday morning, when the weather is fufficiently fair
to encourage them to go to church. The men go equally fine. But
thofe females who are prevented from going abroad in the morning,
by their cookery, the warning of their kitchen-dimes, the milking of the
cows, or the feeding of the fwine, attend the church only in the after-
noon, and come lefs folicitoufly drefled out in their finery. They are
almoft all tall and good-looking ; fome of them, are even very hand-
fome.

Portland is feated on a peninfula, which juts out into the bay. To
reach it by the way of that ifthmus which connects the peninfula with
the land, you are obliged, in coming from North Yarmouth, to go more
than three miles about. But, a bridge is now in building acrofs that arm
of the bay, which gives occafion for the prefent circuitous approach to
the town. The bridge is built by fubfcription, and is half finifhed.
When it mall be completed, and mall be found to have fuffi cient ftrength
to endure the ordinary currents of the tide, its periodical overflowings,
and the winds which often rage here with tremendous fury ; it will then
prove exceedingly ufeful. At prefent, I fhould doubt, whether fufficient
folidity can be given to a bridge in this fituation.

This town of Portland may be reckoned handfome. That part of it
which is called the New Town, really confifts of houfes of a very good
appearance. The Old Town, which was burnt by the Englim, in the
war that ended in the freedom of America, is compofed of mean houfes,
the habitations of the poorer people. The quays are few ; and under
them, mips receiving or difcharging their ladings, can lie with fafety :

3 N 2 adjoining

460 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

adjoining are fpacious flore-houfes for the reception of goods. The road
is good and fafe. This road makes a part of Cafco Bay, a branch of
which extends from Brunfwick as far as Portland ; and in any part of
this branch, fhips of any burthen may find good anchorage. The great
inconvenience of this bay is, that it is acceffible at fix or feven different
places, fb that, in cafe of a war, fhips lying in it, could not well efcape
being furprifed by an enemy from one entrance or another. That open-
ing into the bay, to which Portland is contiguous, is more than two miles
wide. Of confequence, guns difcharged from the two oppofite fides,
could not project their fhots fo far, as to make them crofs each other ;
and the execution which could be done from forts would not be fuffi-
cient to guard the entrance.

They are at prefent, conftructing, on the fite of an old earthen breaft-
work, a fortification which they expect to command the town, and
to render it, at leaft, fecure from the invafion of an enemy. This
new fortification flands at the extreme point of the peninfula on which
Portland is fituate, and confifts of a battery of fifteen or twenty heavy can-
non of large calibre, commanding that wide entrance of the bay which
was above mentioned. This battery is to have, by means of a covered
way, a communication with a fmall fort at the diftance of four or five
hundred toifes, which it has alfo been thought necefTary to erect ori
the higheft part of this iflhmus. The fort is fufficient to hold two
hundred men. If Portland were a place of greater ftrength, inaccefTible
without very considerable difficulty, and if there were a ftrong garrifon
always ready for its defence ; this fortrefs, or a more confiderable citadel,
in its fituation, and communicating with the town, might then be of
great importance. But, fmce the natural fituation of the town is fo little
capable of defence, works like thefe can never become ferviceable in
any due proportion to the trouble and expence. Portland is, how-
ever, a place which an enemy can never have an interefl to keep pofTef-
fion of. If feized by an enemy, it would only be fet on fire, and then
abandoned. Two or three fhips crews would be equal to the enterprife.
When the garrifon are unable to maintain the batteries, they muft then

retire

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 46l

retire into the fort ; and there, what more can they do, except procure
for themfelves the honours of a capitulation ? I cannot, therefore, fee
any ufe in thefe fortifications. In 17/0, an Englifh frigate burnt three-
fourths of Falmouth, of which Portland was a part. In 1786, the ftate
of Maffachufetts united the other remaining parts of Falmouth with
Portland, giving to the whole the common name of Portland.

The trade of Portland is carried on in feventy mips of various bur-
then, all belonging to the town. Many of them fail to Europe, though
oftener to the Antilles. About twenty are engaged in the fimery of cod,
which are taken among the iilands at the mouth of the bay. The
merchants in Portland are numerous ; but none among them poffefs
great capitals. As Portland, and the parts adjacent, are not equal to
the confumption of the cargoes which the mips import in return for
the exports ; thefe are generally carried to Bofton, which is the prin-
cipal mart for foreign commodities. The want of money occafions a
greater proportion of them to be fent to the capital, than is for the
advantage of this place : and hence, while the ftore-houles of Portland
are neglected, the goods, which might be here bought and fold at a more
reafonable rate, are bought by the people of this neighbourhood, at an
exorbitant price, in Bofton.

In 1 785, the tonnage of the united townfhips of Falmouth and Portland
amounted to five thoufand three hundred and forty-one tons in the foreign
trade ; fixteen hundred and twenty-eight in the fimery and the coafting-
trade ; in all, fix thoufand nine hundred and fixty-nine tons. In October
17Q5, the tonnage of the mips, regiftered for that year, was eight thou-
fand four hundred and eight tons in the foreign trade, five thoufand three
hundred and ninety in the coalting- trade and fimery ; in all, thirteen
thoufand feven hundred and ninety- eight tons. The value of the ex-
ports from Portland, was, in 1791, feven ty-four thoufand eight hun-
dred and four dollars ; in 1/92, one hundred and five thoufand one
hundred and ninety-two dollars; 1793, one hundred and forty-fix thou-
fand nine hundred and twenty-one dollars ; 1 794, one hundred and fifteen

thoufand

46'2 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

thoufand fix hundred and twelve dollars ; 17Q5, one hundred and fixty-
five thoufand fix hundred and eighty-two dollars.

There is, as yet no regular market for provisions in Portland. This
fmall, though 'handforne, town confifts of about three hundred houfes,
which may contain two thoufand three hundred fouls. The Prefbyte-
rians have -here two churches ; the Epifcopalians one. Schools have
alfo been eftablimed here, which are faid to be pretty good. Lots of
ground, for building in the town, are at a price which may be reckoned
high ; and land, within a mile of the town, cofts twenty dollars an acre.
Portland is the principal town in the county of Cumberland, which con-
tains about twenty--four thoufand inhabitants.

BIDDEFORD. - MR. THATCHER.

The nearer you approach to Bofton, fo much the more does the whole
-country appear to affume an air of bufinefs and mduftry. Not a creek
but mips are in building, in it ; not a river's mouth fo fmall, but mer-
chant companies are there hi pofTeflion of mips, which they either hire
out or lade on their own account : No fituation where a mill could
{land, on which there has not been a mill creeled. Falmouth, Pepper-
borough, Saga, Biddeford, Kennebeck, Berwick, carry on a trade far fu-
perior to that of the fmall towns through which I had paffed on my way
hither. The land is, however, neglecled ; but the foil is worft in the
immediate vicinity of the fea.

In Portland I lodged at the houfe of Mr. DAVRES, a young lawyer,
whom, as well as Mr. LEE, I had feen at the houfe of General Knox,
by whom he is much efteemed, on account of his agreeable man-
ners, integrity, and fkill in his profeffion. At Biddeford, I flopped to
dine at the houfe of Mr. THATCHER, another lawyer, whom I had
feen at the court-houfe in Penobfcot. Mr. Thatcher is, likewife, a
member of the Congrefs. He lives at the diftance of two miles from the
town, in a fmall and mean houfe, which would be difdained by the pet-
tieft avocat in all France. Oppofite to his houfe, on the other fide of

the

BY THK DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 46*3

the highway, is another hut, not more than twelve feet fquare, very
flightly conftrufted of boards, carelefsly fixed at the foundation, and hang-
ing over a declivity of the road, which is his confultation-room, his cham-
ber for bufmefs, and his library. He has about two thoufand volumes,
books of law, hiftory, morality, and general literature. He adds to it all
new American publications, and procures from England every other new
work, which he underftands to be valuable, and cannot find in America.
He reads a great deal, and is a man of extenfive knowledge. There is a
pleafing caft of originality in his converfation and in his whole be-
haviour : But his notions are excentric, and often falfe. He is fingular in
his exterior appearance, {tiff and fantaftic in his principles, but liberal-
minded, hofpitable, courteous, and kind. He cultivates a fmall piece of
land, and lives with his numerous family in a hut in which they have
fcarce, all, room to breathe. His doors are never fhut ; even his ftudy is
always open ; yet nothing is ever ftolen from him. Thefe fimple, unfu-
fpicious manners, have procured him the efteem of his neighbours, as- be-
ing an honeft lawyer. He is, in political principles, a federalift, but un-
connected with the intrigues of that party; and, in the Congrefs, he en-
deavours always to give his vote to reditude, not to party. He is not rich :
yet has more than would be fufficient to make him live more elegantly
than he does at prefent, if his humour would permit. His land is fertile.
It has been two years in cultivation. He gives it no manure ; yet it yields,
an acre, fifty bufhels of maize, or forty bulhels of barley, and two hundred
bumels of potatoes. The meadows, which are not in a, very good ftate
of prefcrvation and culture, yield, from each, fix thoufand pounds of hay.
His ploughs and harrows are of the fame indifferent make as thofe,
throughout the reft of the country. Mr. Thatcher complains, that little
progrefs is made in the inftitution of good fchools in this country. When
thefe mall be fufficiently numerous, he expecls that every improvement
will advance with aftoniming rapidity.

Biddeford belongs to the fame commercial diftricl: with Pepperborough.
The value of the exports was, in the year 17Q1, twenty-fix thoufand fix
hundred and forty-four dollars ; in 1 7Q2, thirty-feven thoufand four hun-
dred

4()4 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

clred and forty-fix dollars ; in 1 79 3, thirty-nine thoufand and fourteen
dollars ; in 1 794, fifty thoufand four hundred and fourteen dollars ; in
1795, forty-feven thoufand fix hundred and forty-three dollars.

The River Saga, on which Biddeford lies, is navigable above the bridge,
but has in its courfe many rapid falls, by which a number of mills are
wrought, and which prefent a diverfity of picturefque and jntereiling
views to the traveller. The way leads acrofs fome rivers, which, till we
reach Berwick, are not very interefling. At Berwick, the River Salmons-
fall is of considerable breadth ; and its channel is rendered much broader
and deeper by the influx of the tide.

BERWICK.

I arrived in this diftrict, which is very extenfive, on Tuefday. That
part in which . (to adopt the language of the country) bufmefs is carried
on,; in other words, through which the river runs, lies feven miles from
the place where I took up my abode, and yet thefe are not the two re-
moteft points. The town confifts of about forty houfes, which adjoin
to one another ; a great number of detached houfes fkirt the road fide,
which I am told is the cafe throughout the whole diftricl:. The coun-
try, as far as I had an opportunity of viewing it, appears to be in a better
flate than that through which 1 pafTed before, although the foil is very
mallow and ftony. The cultivation of maize, with that of gourds in the
intermediate fpace, conflitute the chief objects of agriculture. Rye and
wheat are raifed in the more diftant parts. Mr. ROGER, a Quaker,
keeps a very excellent inn at Berwick. The guefls who frequent his
houfe are not promifcuoufly mixed together ; each different company has
its feparate fitting, eating, and fleeping rooms ; every thing bears the ap-
pearance of the utmoft cleanlinefs, care, and attention; the fervants are
numerous, and are employed both upon the extenfive farm and the bufi-
nefs of the inn ; the landlord and his wife are perfons of good fenfe, and
very obliging in their manners ; in fhort, this inn was a kind of pheno-
menon of which I never yet faw the counterpart. Mr. Roger does not
cat at the fame table with his fervants, and his wife never goes into the

kitchen

UY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LlANCOUfcT.

kitchen, except to give inftruc"lions, without, however, doing any part of
the work herfclf. They both preferve a proper authority over their fer-
vants, and thefe entertain a degree of refpecl: for them, of which I never
met with a parallel inftance fmce I left Europe.

The county of York, in w T hich Berwick lies, contains no more than
four thoufand inhabitants, and yet is comldered, in proportion to its {ize,
as the moll populous, being the fmalleft in the whole province of Maine.
Berwick is the laft townmip in it. The entire tracl of country from
Portland is in the moft flouriming {late, and yet the foil, in the general
opinion, is not accounted fo good as that m the vicinity of Penobfcot.
But then this diftricl: has been longer cultivated and inhabited than any
other part of the province.

If, unhappily, the troubles, which there is but too much reafon to
dread, do not retard the progrefs of cultivation in this country, its im-
provement will be rapid and very great. The more I reflect upon this
fubjcft, I am convinced of the importance to the pro{perity of this par-
ticular colony, that perfons of opulence, and thofc who poflefs a prac-
tical knowledge of agriculture mould fettle in it. A country fo wretch-
edly and miferably cultivated, and the climate of which renders it
necefTary to houfe cattle in ftalls fix months in the year, {lands in need
of very great care and attention on the part of the colonh% and ought,
by cultivation, to be /made productive -enough to yield the mpply of fo-
rage for the winter, which is ncceflary to a numerous breed of cattle.
The foil, therefore, muft be well prepared, the labour maturely digefted,
and the planters muft poflefs an adequate capital to carry their plans into
execution. It is by thefe means alone that the difadvantagc of the cli-
mate can be obviated; for climate alone is never the caufe of great injury
to the farmers ; and thofc of the fettlers who now poifefs little knowledge
of agriculture, would profit from the example of the more experienced,
and opulent.

GENERAL REMARKS ON THE PROVINCE OF MAINE.

Prcvioufly to taking my laft farewell of Maine, I mall offer a few re-
marks on its hiftory, and its prefent ftate.

Some at te m ts to fettle a colony in this place, in the vicinity of New-

3 O caftlc,

466 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

eaftle, were made by the Dutch in 1025, and even at the early period of
1607, but without effect. In lC35, a Spaniard, of the name of FERDI-
NAND GEORGES, was prefented, by the Council of the Plymouth Society.
with a large tract of country between the Rivers Pucataqua and Kenne-
bec. This was fhortly after augmented by the EngHih Government,
which extended the limits of Georges's jurifdiciion to a greater compafs
than it had hitherto done in the cafe of any individual. Georges formed
a kind of democratical government, which continued till his death, when
this colony voluntarily fubmitted itfelf to the dominion of Mailachufetts.
In 1691, under the reign of William and Mary, the whole of this dif-
tricl to Nova Scotia was incorporated with MaiTachufetts ; the terri-
tories, which were then comprifed under the names of Maine and Saga-
dahock, did not extend to a greater diftance than one hundred and twenty
miles from the fea. The more remote parts w^erc refcrved to the crown.
The American revolution lias annexed the whole to the Maflachufetts.
From the report of the committee appointed to deliver in a ftatement of-
the fale of lands fmce the revolution, as well as of thofe which ftill re-
main to be difpofed of, it appears, that feven millions four hundred thou-
fand acres have been already fold ; that one million, which have been
allotted, ftill remain to be purchafed ; and that, on an average, there are
i^yen millions of acres which have not been meafured, cxclufively of a
number of iflands. Befides thefe lands, which are the property of the
State, upwards of three hundred and fifty-fix thoufand acres have been
given to the fchools and public inftitutions.

The population of the province of Maine is computed to exceed, at
prefent, one hundred thoufand inhabitants. According to Morfe, this
province contains forty thoufand fquare miles, or twenty-four millions
fix hundred thoufand acres, w^hich gives but a very fmall population of
not more than two and a half inhabitants to each fquare mile ; in all pro-
bability the great quantity of land, which is veiled in the hands of the
fpeculators in the town, is a great drawback upon the increafe of popula-
tion. The beft part of the province lies between the rivers Kennebec
and Penobfcot, particularly in the diftrid; at the diftance of ten or twelve
miles from the fea.

NEW

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 46?

NEW HAMPSHIRE. DOVER.

On leaving the province of Maine, the traveller paffes through Dover
into New Hampfhire. The greater part of the houfes in this very popu-
lous diftricl:, are fituated on the River Cocheco, which empties itfelf a
little below the town into the Pifcataqua. Dover borders on a fmall
ridge of mountains, extending between the Pifcataqua and the River
Back, which command a profpccl: of a great number of rivers, bays, cul-
tivated and inhabited promontories, terminating at a confiderable dif-
tancc in the mountains of New Hampfhire. This profpecl: is beautiful
and grand ; a fort erected on this fpot would very advantageoufly pro-
tect the entrance into the country. It is currently afferted, that the ori-
ginal inhabitants, who came hither in 1630, eftablifhed themfelves on
this eminence ; but that commercial convenience induced them gradu-
ally to prefer their prefent refidence at Dover to this charming ipot.
Dover is the capital of the county of Waterford, which contains twenty-
four thoufand inhabitants ; Dover is reckoned to hold two thoufand.
There are two roads from Dover to Portfmouth ; the one five miles
Ihorter than the other, and bordering on the fea-coaft. Thofe who tra-
vel this way crofs the river in a ferry-boat. The other road runs further
up into the country, and paffes over a bridge acrofs the Pifcataqua, which
was completed only laft year, and is, beyond difpute, the fineft in all
America.

This bridge is built of wood, in the form of an angle, the two fides
meeting together on an bland in the centre, and it is two thoufand two
hundred and ninety-one feet in length. Notwithstanding its extent,
it has nothing remarkable, excepting this great length, and a width of
five hundred feet. It refts upon piles, but one part of it, near the ifland
in the centre, has an arch two hundred and forty- four feet nine inches in
width, the pillars of which on the fides do not iland on the ground, but
are fupported entirely by a fcafTolding of wood. This arch, which gains
great ftrength and {lability from its' pillars and fupports, rifes at its high-
cft point one hundred feet above the bed of the river, and fifty feet above

3 O 2 the

-108 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

the ordinary water-mark. The bridge, befides the balluftrade on eacfc
fide, which enclofe as well this as the other parts of it, is interfered in
the middle by pallifadoes, which run parallel with the balluftrade, and
add confiderably to the flrength of the arch, which rifes ten feet above
the level of the bridge, and of courfe renders the declivity on each fide
pretty fleep. The bridge is unqucflionably fine, but even the little
architectural knowledge which I poflefs convinces me, that the engineers
in France would be able to improve upon and beautify it, without any
detriment to its {lability. The reafon for conftrucliing this high arch is>
to give the fmall veflels, which are built on the river, or which navigate
it, the means of failing through it, for which purpofe it opens likewifc
in two other places.

PORTSMOUTH.

Portfmouth is fituated about five miles from this bridge, in a kind of
t>ay, formed by the Pifcataqua before it difembogues itfelf into the ocean.
On the arms of the bay, or on the rivers which fall into it, lie DoVer,
Exeter, and Derham, little towns in New Hampihire, in which a few
fhips are built, and fomc trade carried on. Portfmouth is, however, the
only harbour in New Hampihire ; this province, on the fide of the fea, has
not a greater extent than from fifteen to twenty miles. The harbour is
remarkable for its fafe anchorage, and its great depth of water. The
nature of its entrance, which makes it neceffary for all vefiels to fail into
it through a very narrow channel, renders its defence very eafy.

The commerce of Portfmouth has experienced very little increafe fince
the American revolution ; on the contrary it has vifibly fallen oiF with-
in thefe laft five or fix years. The very confiderable number of mips it
formerly pofleffed have been fold to other ports, and more than half of
thofe, which are annually built here, have the fame destination*. The
trade in mips conflitutes one of the principal branches of the commerce

* For a more circumftantial account of the trade, the tonnage and exports from Portf-
mouth, the reader is referred to the Diary of the Journey of 1796.

"JSY THE DUKE DE LA KOCHEFOUCAULT LIAXCOURT. 4.6$

of Portfmouth, which is univerfally acknowledged to excel in the art of
fhip-building. Prior to the American war, many veiTcls were built here
for England. Independently of the demand from the latter quarter bein^
flopped, wood is now become much fcarcer and dearer in Portfmouth,
and the price of fhipping is of eourfe confiderably advanced. Wood fetches
now twenty dollars, per ton from the timber merchants, and fifty-five
dollars per ton when worked up into vefTels.

Notwithftanding, however, this incontrovertible decrcafe of the trade
of Portfmouth, the value of ground in the town is moft extravagantly
high. A lot of ground, forty feet in breadth, and eighty-four in depth
(with a fmall quay), was lately fold for the fum of feventeen thoufand
icven hundred and feventy-feven dollars. In the vicinity of the town, land
fetches, according to the nature of the foil, from thirty-three to ninety
dollars per acre. The circumjacent country of Portfmouth Ls very fine ;
the eftates well parcelled out into meadows, although the land, which
is the moft appropriated to this ufe, is often encumbered with large
rocks. In the remote parts, which, with the exception of a few diftricls,
arc faid to be very populous, land fetches from two to three dollars per
acre, and I am told it is very excellent. An inhabitant of Portfmouth,
whofe eftate lies about one hundred and fifty miles from that town,
affured me, that it produced, the firft year of its being cultivated, forty,
and the fucceeding year thirty bufhels of wheat per acre. But as this
perfon has a large quantity of land to dtfpofe of, it may perhaps be no
more than prudent to receive his aflertions with caution. Wheat cofts,
in this diftant country, from five to fix millings per bumel. In Hamp-
fhire, as well as in New England, the dollar is valued at fix millings.

The common pay of labourers in New Hamplhire is from fix to eight
dollars a week, and they are procured without much difficulty. The
price of cattle is the fame as in that part of the province of Maine, which
borders on this country. Provifions are very plentiful in Portfmouth, and
are fold in a market, which is extremely well furnimed. Fire-wood fells-
from five to fix dollars per cord.

In the province only one paper is publiihed twice a week, and that in

Portland,

470 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

Portland. It has a pretty extcnfive fale, and is read with aridity. In New
Hampiliire a great variety of newfpapers are printed. Portfmouth has
three, Dover two, and Dartmouth, on the river Connecticut, where the
college is eftablimed, has one.

In Portfmouth every man is a politician, and a very warm one too. The
-majority arc evidently avcrfe to the treaty with England. The advocates
for that meafure, afcribe this hoftile fpirit to Mr. LANGDON, one of the
ten fenators, who voted againft its ratification. I cannot take upon myfelf
to determine the extent of this gentleman's influence, and whether he has
any control in this refpecl over the public opinion, as to his political tranf-
act.ions ; but it is very natural to conclude, that the number of arguments,
which have been advanced againft it, muft have made a ftrong impremon
upon thofe, who have no intereft in the meafure. The people of America
are, in this point, exactly in the fame predicament as the inhabitants of
France fince the revolution, and as the Englifh are, fmce they have be-
come apprehenfive of its confequences. They confider each other, when-
ever they difagree in politics, as jacobins, or rafcals ; or as ariftocrats, or
rafcals. Thofe who do not admire the treaty with England are looked
upon by the one party as guillotmijls , whilft the oppofers of the treaty,
on the other hand, decry every man as an enemy of public liberty, and as
a penfioner to England, who does not execrate the meafure, and vote for
the hanging of Jay, who concluded it. This violence of opinion, thefe
political extremes, are to be met with in a greater or lefs degree in all
cities. The country people, of all ranks, are very quiet, and w r illi for
peace, and the due obfervance of the laws and good order for the fecurity
of their harvefts. The major part of the inhabitants do not beftow a
moment's thought upon the treaty, ; and even among thofe who do take
it into confideration, there arc many, who, at the fame time that they
avow " their diilike to the meafure ; that they place no confidence in
" the Engliih," &c. never fail to add " but if we had not ratified the
" faid treaty, we muft, by all accounts, have been plunged into a war w r ith
" England, and, therefore, it is well the treaty took place." Still oftener
do we hear : " Our aged father, the Prcfident, underftands this matter

" much

BY THE DUKE DE LA. ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 471

" much better than ourfelves ; we will, therefore, leave it entirely to
s< his management ; he will not fuffer himfelf to be impoied upon." It
muft, however, be acknowledged, that the character of the Prefident,
which till very lately has never been attacked, is at prefent fubjecl: to
much animadvernon.

MR. LANGDON.

I parTed two days with this fenator, who warmly oppofed the treaty
with England. He gave me an invitation, whilft I was in Philadelphia.
He is a man of the nrft importance in Portfmouth. He was originally
mate of a merchant fhip, afterwards captain, and then merchant. He
has acquired a very large fortune, in addition to his paternal inheritances.
He is allowed to pofTefs great knowledge of mip-building, in which he has
fpeculated deeply. It was he who built the Ihip, which the United States
of America prefented to France. At prefent he has bade a farewel to
trade, and inverted all his property in land. During the revolution, he
was a friend to Hamilton, Jay, and Madifon ; and in the debates, which
took place on the fubjecl: of the new conftitution, he went over, oh
the feparation of the two parties, to the opposition. Be his political
character, however, what it may, it is impoffible for any man to difplay a
greater attachment to his country, or better principles. He is extremely
friendly, affable, and unaffected, and received me in the kindeft manner,
as a ftranger ought to be received, without unnecciTary form and cere-
mony. He is reputed to be very rich, and his ftile of living proves it. *
He has been married twenty years, and his lady appears ftill as beautiful
and fprightly, as if flie were only eighteen years of age. His daughter, j
Mifs ELIZA, is uncommonly amiable and pleating.

General Knox had given me a letter of recommendation to Mr.
SCHEEF, a merchant in the town. The known difference of their po-
litical opinions did not prevent Mr. Langdon from introducing me to
that gentleman, with whom he afterwards breakfafted in my company.
Mr. Scheef carries on more bufinefs than almoft any merchant in Portf-
mouth ; he was fo deeply engaged, that I could only have his company

for a few minutes.

There

47 'I TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

There are a number of churches in Portf mouth, and, among the reft,
a Quaker's meeting. Very few members of this feel; refide in the town^
they are almoft all farmers in the circumjacent country, and, like all
Quakers and farmers,, honeft, fimple, .and well behaved.

The continued rain occaiioned my remaining in Portfmouth a day
longer than I originally intended. Hamptonfall, where I patted the night,
belongs to the province of New Hampshire, and constitutes the boun-
daries. Mr. Wells keeps an inn in this place, which ftands in high re-
pute for neatnefs,

NEWBURY PORT.

Before you arrive at Newbury Port, you have to crofs the river Mer-
rimack, by means of abridge, which, prior to the building of that thrown
over the Pifcataqua, was conildered as the moft elegant in all New Eng-
land. It is at leaft ihorter by one-third than the latter, and the arch,
which meafures only one hundred and thirty feet in width, is fupported
by a crooked piece of timber, meafuring twenty feet, which gives the
bridge, at firft fight, a heavy appearance. Along the banks of the river,
before you come to this bridge, lies Newbury Newtown, a pretty exten-
five village, where a number of fliips are built, which are afterwards
equipped, and freighted in Newbury Port. Mr. Langdon had furnifhed
me with a letter of recommendation to his friend JACKSOX, from whom
I flattered myfelf with the hopes of receiving fome information relative
to the town and its trade. But this gentleman being abfent in Bolton, I
was obliged to content myfelf w r ith the intelligence I could procure from
fome inhabitants, whom I found in the inn. 1 learnt that the trade of
this town, which, as well as that of Portfmouth, had decayed very much
fince the conclufion of the war, was, for the lait years, confiderably on
the advance ; that it was of the fame .nature with that carried on at Portf-
mouth, and other parts of Maflachufetts ; that the quantity of tonnage
now employed by this town, amounted to fixteen thoufand tons ; that
.the exports were valued, in 1/91, at two hundred and fifty thoufand one
hundred and ninety-three dollars ; in 1792, at two hundred and fcventy-

.three

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 4J3

three thoufand five hundred and fifty-one dollars ; in 1703, at three hun-
dred and feventy thoufand and forty-three dollars; in 1 794, at four hundred
and ninety-five thoufand four hundred and five dollars } in 1795, at four
hundred and ten thoufand five hundred and eighty-fix dollars ; that it has
very few fifhermen ; that the harbour and moorings are good, fafe, and
deep, the quays commodious and very extenfive. The town is almoft as
large as Portfmouth. Unfortunately there is a fhoai of quickfands at the
entrance of the haven, which obftrucls the navigation two or three times
in the courfe of the year. To guard againft the mifchief, which other-
wife might befall veffels, that have made long voyages, two light-houfes
have been erected on the coaft, one of w^hich is moveable, and capable
of being always ftationed behind the other, according to the aclual fitua-
tion of the pafs. By fleering their courfe direcl: againft that point, at
which the fecond light-houfe is concealed behind the firft, veffels are en-
abled to fail day and night into the harbour, without running the rifk of
driving on the fand banks.

Newbury Port is built on the river Mcrrimack. It has ten public
fchools. A fociety of inhabitants of the town, known by the name of
the Sea Company, have eflablifhed a very benevolent inflitution, confut-
ing of feveral fmall houfes on Plumb Ifland, which lies in the mouth of
the river, w r here perfons, who have fufTered fhipwreck, find fome provi-
fions, fire-wood, and other articles of immediate rieceffity.

Newbury Port carries on a confiderable trade with the Antilles, and
receives molaffes in return, which keeps from eight to ten boiling- houfes
in employ. There are likewife fome breweries in the town, and a very
large nail manufactory, which appeared to me to be very fkilfully con-
ducted. Newbury Port contains about four thoufand inhabitants.

The road from Portfmouth to Bofton is one continued feriea of houfes,
mop-booths, fmall manufactories and villages. It is an uninterrupted
garden. The road is in every part better than any I have ever feen in
America. It would be confidered a delightful road, even in the mofl
beautiful diftri&s of France and England.

3 P IPSWICH.

474 TRAVELS Itf NORTH AMERICA,

IPSWICH.

Ipiwich, one of the moil confidcrable villages on this road, is fituated
on a river, to which it gives name, .and on which fome ihips are built.
This final! harbour participates in the -large trade carried on with MafTa-
chufetts, but not fo extenii vely at prefent, as in former years.

Flax is pretty abundantly cultivated in all diltricts of the province, and
feems to thrive well. But it is faid to be in greater abundance at a greater
diilancc. from the coaft, at leaft every where more fo than hemp.

BEVERLEY.

Bevcrley is another fmall neat village, through which the road paiTes
to Bofton. Its harbour lies on the South River. It .is iltuated on a
peninfula formed by that and the North River. The trade of this vil-
lage is confined entirely to ftock-fim, in which branch forty veflels are
employed. The fiili are cured in the village itfelf, which renders it very
unpleafant to pafs through. The number of vefiels, which fail from
this port to Europe or the colonies, is not confiderable. Salem engrolTes
ahnoft the whole trade.

SALEM. MR. GOLDHUE.

Salem is one of the handfomeft fmall towns in the United States, and is
feparated from Beverley only by a bridge> fifteen feet in length. The num-
ber of its inhabitants, which increafes yearly, amounts to ten thoufand.
The town, in reference to its trade, ranks with thofe of the fixth rank
in America, and wdth thofe of the fecond rank in Maffachufetts. The
uncommonly aclive and enterprifing fpirit of its inhabitants is the fole
reafbn which can be afcribed for the great extent and rapid progrefs of
its trade. This town has no cultivated land behind it to fupply its ex-
ports, which in America is with juilice conlidered as one of the mofl
elTential articles of commerce. Its haven is but fmall, at ebb the quays
are dry, and veflels of a larger iize muft even, at high water, unload a part
of their cargo, in order to be able to reach thefe quays. Yet, notwith-

ftanding

BY THE DUJtfi Dfe fcA : fcOCHEFOUCAULT IfANCOtJRT.

Handing thefe inconveniences, the annual freightage from this port ex-
ceeds twenty thoufand tons. The veflcls employed in this fervicc fail to
all parts of the globe ; twelve of them, for inftance, are engaged in th6
Eaft India trade, one of which arrived from Calcutta the day prior to my
entering the town, after an abfence of nine months and twelve days, of
which thirty-two days were paffed at Calcutta. The number of veffels,
conilituting the above mentioned rate of twenty thoufand tons, amounts
to one hundred and fifty, one hundred of which are in the foreign trade,
twenty are coafters, and thirty follow the employment of fimiiig. The
exports amounted, in 1/91, to fix hundred and ten thoufand and five
dollars; in 1/92, to fix hundred and fifty-feven thoufand three hundred
and three dollars ; in 1/93, to eight hundred and twelve thoufand and
fixty-fix dollars ; in 1 794, to one million four hundred and fifty-two
thoufand four hundred and eleven dollars; in 1795, to one million five
hundred and four thoufand five hundred and eleven dollars. As Salem
and Beverley have only one cuftom-houfe in common for both places, the
exports from the latter form a proportion in this calculation, but it is very
inconfiderable.

With the exception of two or three large fortunes of nearly three hun-
dred thoufand dollars, the opulence of the' merchants is not' very great;
but all the inhabitants find themfelves in a flourimmg condition, which
is the lefs fubjecT: to a reverfe, as the mode of living is very frugal, and as
luxury is hitherto little known amongft them. Hence all the profits ac-
quired by trade, arc re-imbarked in trade; and this accumulation of in-
tcreft upon intereft infures them a large capital, by which they are en-
abled to bear up againft any cafual lofTcs. The major part of the fhip-
ping from Salem is freighted from' Virginia or South Carolina, In thefe
provinces of America, the land yields a greater abundance of produce,
than the vcfleJs employed in their ports will fufKce to export. The in-
duftry of the northern ports, therefore, inhere very valuable, the produce
being in an inverie ratio to the ihippini", compared with the fouthern
ftates. Salem exports, however, anfc ' from fcven to eight thoufand
pounds of fait beef, and eighteen thouland barrels of fifh. This latter

3 P 2 article

TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

article has, for fome years pail, been greatly on the decline, the inhabi-
tants of Salem, and the other ports, preferring the wholefale trade as
more lucrative. The commodities imported from the Eaft and Weft
Indies, form likewife a branch of the export trade of this port. Hemp,
iron, Ruffia leather, are employed in the coaftmg trade. Few foreign
veifels put in here. - The inhabitants of Salem fay, that, their own in-
duftry leaves no room for the fpeculations of ftrangers.

An European, who fancies that a man cannot be qualified to act as
captain of a fhip, till he has made a number of voyages, and pafled through
a regular courfe of fludy, is not a little furprized^ wh'en he is informed,
that the merchants of Salem entrufl their mips to young perfons, who
have frequently been only one year at fea. As they have grown up in
the bufmefs of the compting-houfe, they are perfectly acquainted with
the price, tl|e quality, arid the fale of each different commodity. The
firfl year they are aflbciated with a fkilful fteerfmate, and act at once in
the capacity of captain and fupercargo. Their veflels, whatever may be
tl^e, caufe, do:not fuffer fliip wreck more frequently than other mips, which
are more cautioully navigated. In the courfe of a few years thefe young
people Become merchants themfelves, the captain's profits being very
confiderable. As they generally are appointed from the families of mer-
chants, they receive affiftance from their employers.

The inconveniences which Salem experiences from the fhallownefs of
its harbour, fecure them againft all hoflile attacks. The entrance to the
haven is not in the flighteft degree defended, nor is it, indeed, capable of
defence.

I was upon terms of great intimacy with Mr. GOLDHUE, a member
of the Congrefs, whom I had feen at Philadelphia. The friendly recep-
tion that gentleman gave me, and the patience with which he refolved
my queftions, entitle him to the fame praife, as indeed all the perfons are
entitled to, whom I met with in the courfe of my long journey. Mr.
Goldhue is a man of ftrong intellect, of very plain manners, and is very
,yfell informed. In his political principles he is a federalift, and of courfe
an advocate for the treaty with England. The town of Salem enter-
tains

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 477

tains the fame opinion as he does, in this refpecl:, chiefly on account of
their dread of a war, which they consider as the inevitable confequence
of the non-ratification of the treaty.

Before I take rny leave of Salem, I mufl remark, that the day previous
to my departure, a vefTel arrived in this port from Bourdeaux, which
brought a great quantity of filver dimes and plates, in payment for flour,
winch had been fold to France. The plate was valued by weight, and
conftituted a part of the confifcated property of the emigrants.

Salem is the capital of the County of EfTex, and contains, upon an
average, fixty-nine thoufand inhabitants. It is a handfome town, the
houfes are good, fmall, and neat, and perfectly accord with the manners
of the inhabitants. The Senate Houfe is a fpacious, and even elegant
building.

Salem has a fail-cloth manufactory, which employs a great number of
fkilful hands.

This town is the fecond fettlement erected by the Europeans, in the
MafTachufetts. It was begun in 1622, and was the principal fcene of the
cruelties, which ignorance, fuperflition, and the perfecuting fpirit of the
priefls, and their deluded votaries, inflicted, in 1692, on the pretended fbr-
cerers.

MARBLEHEAD AND LYNN.

On the fame bay with Salem lies another fmall port, which, in refpecl:
to its fhipping, is of greater confequence than Beverley. Marblehead,
which is fituated in the midft of rocks, trades only in ftock fifh. All
the men are fo entirely occupied in fiming, that the town, to a flranger,
who paiTes through the flreets, appears to be folely inhabited by women
and children, all of whom have a moft miferable and wretched appear-
ance. Marblehead has a cuftom-houfe, and the exports from this place
confift in a variety of articles, the value of which, in 1794, amounted to
one hundred and twenty-four thoufand dollars.

Lynn, which is dependent upon the former place, is another fmalF
haven, lying nine miles nearer to Bofton. It is famous for its fhoe ma-
nufactory.

TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

nufac*lory. There is fcarcely a houfe, which is not inhabited by a fhoe-
maker ; four hundred thoufand pairs, moft of them women's fhoes, are
made here every year. This port carries on no other trade than the ex-
portation of fhoes to Bofton, New York, and Philadelphia, from which
places a great number are fent over to England. A quantity are even ex-
ported directly to Europe from Lynn itfelf.

BOSTON.

THE MONUMENT ERECTED IN MEMORY OF GENERAL WARREN

TONNAGE OF THE SHIPPING OF BOSTON MR. JEFFERY DR.

ELTSTIS, &C.

At length, having palled through the fine and flourifhing village of
Charleftown, I arrived at Bofton. All the roads leading to this town
difplay the profperity and opulence of the inhabitants in a greater degree
than the aufterity of republican manners.

I faw this day the fimple and affecting monument of General WAR-
REN, who commanded in the celebrated battle of Bunker's Hill, anno
1775, which coft the Englifh fo dearly, and taught their troops not to
hold the courage of the republican legions in contempt, whilft it infpired
the latter with a juft confidence in their own prowefs. It muft here be
remembered, that General Warren was by profeffion a phyfician, and had
never ferved in the army. He had no opportunity of giving proofs of his
great talents, this being the firft action, in which he was engaged. But
his courage and patriotifm eminently diftinguifhed him, and that at a
time, when there w^ere very few of his countrymen, who did not difcover
extraordinary energy.

This fimple monument is creeled on the fpot where the fort ftood, the
taking of which coil the Englifh ninety officers, and fourteen hundred
men, and in which attack General Warren loft his life. It was built by
the direction and at the expence of the free-mafons, of which order the
*General was grand mailer.

The civility of General Lincoln, ccmmimoner of the cufloms for the

llate

BY THE DUKE DE LA KOCHKFOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

ftate of MafTachufetts, furnimed me with an opportunity of extracting
from the register of the office the tonnage, belonging to the port of
Bofton, as likewifc the amount of its exports. The tonnage will amount
this year to ninety thoufand tons ; at leaft it amounted, according to the
number of mips regiftered, for the firft nine months, to feventy-three
thoufand five hundred and thirty -nine tons. The laft quarter is not ex-
peeled to run high, on which account I have eftimated it at only feven-
teen thoufand tons. In 3 794, the whole year made but fixty-eight
thoufand nine hundred and fixty-feven tons ; and in 1 793, no more than
fifty-three thoufand and forty-two. Prior to this period, the law had
not palled, which ena6ts, that all mips mall be regiftered in the ports to
which they belong.

Of the feventy-three thoufand five hundred and thirty-nine tons, which
have been regiftered for the firft nine months of the prefent year, fixty
thoufand two hundred and ninety-five tons are employed in the foreign
trade, eight thoufand four hundred and one tons are employed in the
coafting-trade, and three hundred and nine tons confift of veiTels under
twenty tons each.

The exports from the port of Bofton amounted, in 1 791 > to one million
one hundred and fifty-nine thoufand and four dollars ; in 1 792, to one mil-
lion three hundred and fifty-five thoufand and thirty-eight dollars; in
1793, to one million eight hundred and thirty-four thoufand eight hun-
dred and forty dollars; in 1794, to two million five hundred and thirty-
four thoufand and fifty-three dollars ; in 1795, to four million two hun-
dred and fifty-five thoufand fix hundred and eighty-eight dollars. In
1788, the exports amounted to one million one hundred and forty-feven
thoufand three hundred and fifty-feven dollars.

It is difficult to give the imports with accuracy, becaufe the different
commodities of which they confift, pay different rates of duty. The fum
total of thefe duties will furnim but a very imperfect idea of the extent
of the importation. The number of veffcls from foreign ports, that is
to fay, from fuch as do not lie within the territories of the United States,
will yield a better criterion. The veflels which put into Bofton from

foreign

480 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

foreign ports, were, in 1793, four hundred and thirty-fix; in 1/Q4, five
hundred and fixty-feven ; in 1795, feven hundred and twenty-five. In
1784, the number was four hundred and fifty.

In my firft article relative to Bofton, I have commented on the irre-
gularity of the duties paid by the inhabitants of this town ; of their dif-
fatisfacYion, and the mifchief which refults therefrom. The votes are
taken on this tax, (which is intended to defray the expences of the ftreets,
the pavement, the watchmen, the maintenance of the poor in the hof-
pital, and the free-fchools), in a public meeting of all the inhabitants,
held the beginning of May every year. It produced laft year upwards
of forty thoufand dollars, making ten thoufaiid dollars more than the
preceding year.

Of the one hundred and fifty-nine thoufand feven hundred and fifty-
nine dollars, which are collected in taxes to defray the expences of the
government for the ftate of MafTachufetts, Bofton pays for its individual
quota twelve thoufand nine hundred and fifty-eight dollars.

Every male inhabitant of the ftate of Maflachufetts is aflefled in a
tax, which js fixed throughout the whole ftate at twenty-eight cente-
fimas, or the twenty-eighth of a hundredth part of a dollar. In Bofton
it amounts to eighty -feven centefimas. The rife in the price of every
article, is the principal caufe of this extraordinary advance.*

Mr. JEFFERY, an Englim merchant, who has refided between fifteen
and twenty years in Bofton, in partnerfhip with Mr. John RufTell, re-
quefted, at the time of my firft journey, that I would, on my return,
take up my quarters at his houfe, where I parTed my time very agreeably.
He is an excellent, amiable man, a cheerful companion, who poflefTes the
frank and friendly carriage, fo natural to Englishmen. He is a bachelor,
poflerTes a very large fortune, and entertains the beft company in the town
at his houfe, among whom Dr. EUSTIS deferves particularly to be noticed.
The Dodor is a moft amiable and well bred gentleman, pofleffing
great cheerfulnefs and equanimity of temper ; his political principles are

* For a more circumftantial detail of the duties, the conflitution, and laws of the ftate
of MuiTachufetts, the reader is referred to the journey of 1796.

wife

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 481

\vife and firm ; he is fuperior to prejudice, and his feelings arc truly
noble. Meffrs. Jeffery and Ruflel have eftablifhed a very extenfive fper-
maceti manufactory, and employ two mips in the whale-fifhery. They
employ likewife forty labourers in their beautiful rope-yard.

Bofton is one of the moft agreeable of towns to live in, and its inhabi-
tants are celebrated through all America for their hofpitality to Grangers.
I met here again, to my great fatisfaction, Mr. Cabot, Senator of the
United States for MafTachufetts. He ftands in high eftimation among the
Americans, on account of his well-informed mind and amiable character.
I experienced from Mr. GORE, Advocate-General of the United States,
and a man of talents; from Mr. SULLIVAN, Advocate-General of the
Hate of MafTachufetts, a gentleman of great acquirements, whom the
federal party accufe of differing from them in politics ; and likewife from
Mr. THOMAS RUSSEL, perhaps, the richeft merchant in America, and
who is juftly celebrated for his great benevolence, a degree of attention,
which I cannot refrain from particularly noticing, among even the dif-
tinguimed civilities which I received from every perfon in Bofton, to
whom I was introduced.

HINGHAM. GENERAL LINCOLN.

General Lincoln, on giving me the cuflom-houfe report of the amount
of tonnage belonging to Boflon, which I have 'inferted in my journal,
ftipulated with me, that I fhould, in return for this fervice, vifit him in
Hingham. In purfuance of my pTomife, I fpent twenty-four hours with
him, on Sunday the 1 8th of October. General Lincoln is one of the 1
oldeft Generals who ferved in the American war. He took a part in the
whole of the contefl, was prefent in every action of moment, and ac-
quired among the Generals a great military name, and throughout all
America the reputation of an excellent and honeft man. After the con-
clufion of the war, he was entrufted with feveral negociations with the-
Indians ; and with the appeafing of the troubles, which broke out in
MaiTachufetts in 1787. At length he has been placed at the head of
the receipt of cuiloms ; and this office, the moil lucrative in the gift of

3 Q the

TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

the government, yields him an annual income of nearly five thoufand dol-
lars, he being allowed five-eighths per cent on the whole of the receipts,
He has to keep five clerks, who do all the bufmefs ; but for this draw-
back h'e is amply indemnified by other revenues which accrue to him
from his fituation. General Lincoln is a member of the Academy of
Sciences of the ftate of MaiTachufetts. I have read a memoir, written by
him, which contains remarks on the natural hiftory of America, made
by him in various journies, with an account of his expedition againft the
infurgents in the year 1787. They befpeak him to be a man of great
clearnefs of head, ftudious only of the public weal. His family lives in
Hingham ; and he himfelf refides there, whenever his official bufmefs will
permit.

Hingham is famous for a number of fmall fchools, which are here
placed together, in a fort of college. They are about fourteen in num-
ber, and are attended by about four hundred fcholars.

The foil of the /unrounding lands is almoft all fandy. It yields, an
acre, twenty-five bufhels of maize, and barley and rye, in a moderate
proportion. The meadows afford from the acre, not more than forty
hundred-weight of hay, even at the beft. This land, too, cofts from
twenty to forty dollars an acre. The bufinefs of this fmall village con-
fifts in the manufacture of tubs, pails, and all other vefTels of coopers'
work, which are in common ufe as domeftic utenfils. The packet-boat
which fails between Hingham and Bofton, conveys a confiderable quan-
tity of thefe veflels to Bofton ; and of thefe, a part is thence exported to
England. The wood employed is chiefly fir, from the province of Maine.
General Lincoln poffeifes very extenfive eftates in this province.

I cannot avoid doing myfelf the pleaflire of here mentioning, with due
refpect, the name of Mrs. LINCOLN, the widow of the eldeft fon of Ge-
neral Lincoln : fhe refides in Hingham. I had an opportunity of being
there in company with her, during my fhort ftay with the General. 1
found her to be one of the moft agreeable women in all America. She
is no lefs admired for the excellencies of her mind, than for the charms of
her perfon.

This

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 483

This diftricT: makes a part of the county of Suffolk. It contains a
great number of mills for fawing timber, grinding com, and waulking
cloth. Some of thefe are put in motion by the flux of the tide.

The highway between Hingham and Plymouth opens to the view no
interefting proipecls. The dwclling-houfes are pretty numerous, but are
fcattered between the rocks and the beach. Here is a want of money
and agricultural intelligence to bring the county into that condition of
improvement and opulence of which it is evidently fufceptible.

PLYMOUTH.

The colonifts of this territory landed here in the year 1C20. They
were emigrants who had left England, on account of their religion, and
were about an hundred in number. They arrived on this coaft, without
any certain determination, where to fettle. It is faid that their choice
was fixed, when, on a morning, they approached Cape Cod, and obferved
a bay and a river, which reminded them of Plymouth in England. They
landed, and obtained from the Indians the ceffion of fufficient terri-
tory ; conftru&ed huts for their habitations ; cleared a part of their
lands, and fowed corn for their fuftenance. Thefe fugitives from perfe-
cution, had not been here more than two years, when they declared war
againft the Indians, among whom they had been received, and threat-
ened to expel them out of their poiTeffions.

New emigrants, from time to time, reforted hither from Europe.
Other fcttlements were formed. Force or artifice extorted from the un-
fortunate Indians, new ceflions of territory.

The war with the Indians was not of long duration. Thefe fimplc
people made no great difficulty of relinquishing a few acres, from which
they had never derived great advantage. And, without any prejudices
againft the colonifts, or in favour of the natives, it may be reafonably be*
lieved, that the greater part of the enormities and crimes attributed to the
Indians, originated primarily from the conduct of the European encroach*
ers on their poflemons.

The rock on which thefe firft colonifts landed, is ftill carefully

3 Q 2 pointed

TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

pointed out to ftrangers. The place they called Plymouth, in remem-
brance of their native land. The fea has, fin ce that time, thrown up
fand over the rock to the height of twenty feet. But the tradition of
the firft landing ftill preferved the knowledge of the precife fpot on
which it took place. At the dawn of the revolution, the fand was
cleared away from it. With no little toil, they penetrated at laft through
twenty feet in depth of fand, to the very rock. The rock was fplit into
two parts, as it was laid bare ; and this circumftance was regarded as an
unlucky omen of the political feparation of America from England.
The largeft half ftill remains in its former fituation ; the other was, with
great difficulty, conveyed to the market-place of the town of Plymouth,
where it now lies. Both are in the ftate of rugged blocks, without in-
fcription, or any thing of monumental form, fiich as might indicate
what is peculiar to them, and diftinguifh them from the many other
ftones which lie around.

This rock which, from the high veneration beftowed on it, naturally
attracts the cviriofity of ftrangers, is, however, the only thing particularly
remarkable in that place. Its trade is confined to the fifliery. Seventy
fchooners, of from thirty to forty tons burthen each, and two or .three of
one hundred tons, go to the fifhery upon the bank : fome fim on the
coaft. The largeft of thefe veffels carry their cargoes of fim to fale in
Europe, or in the Weft India Ifles. The road is fcarce fufficiently ihel-
tered from the north-eaft wind ; and the harbour is left dry by the ebb-
ing tides. In the beginning of the war of the revolution, all the veffels
belonging to this port, were either captured or burnt by the Englilh.
Their number was greater than that of the veffels which belong to it, at
prefent ; and its trade was, then, more confiderable. I know not but it
may be the remembrance of what then took place, which now, fo much
exafperates the minds of the people of Plymouth againft England. Arti-
zans, labourers in hulbandry, failors, are all, here, in a rage, againft the
late treaty. Perfons of high rank likewife declare againft it, though with
lefs of open and indecent fury. It is the general voice, that America
ought to form an offenfive and defenfive league with France, and to de-
clare

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

clare war againft England. But, on the other hand* I have been affured
that the richer clafs of the people are, for the greater part, of opinion,
that a treaty of commerce and political amity with England is indifpen-
fibly neceflary to the welfare of America.

In addition to the fifhery, the trade of Plymouth is in part produced
by its forges and manufactures in iron. The works in which thefe
manufactures are carried on, confift, in a confiderable proportion, of mill-
machinery, that is put in motion by the fmall river which here falls into
the bay. As pit- coal and iron-ftone, are plentiful ; from eighty to an
hundred men are kept conflantly at work in thefe manufactures. The
town contains about three thoufand inhabitants ; and their number is
annually augmented.

The exports from Plymouth amounted, in the year 1791, to fifteen
thoufand eight hundred and forty-four dollars; in 1792, to twenty-eight
thoufand nine hundred and forty-five dollars; in 1793, to twenty-nine
thoufand four hundred and twenty-feven dollars ; in 1 794, to thirty-
five thoufand four hundred and fifty-two dollars; in 1795, to fifty-two
thoufand fix hundred and thirty-eight dollars.

I had a letter of introduction to General WARREN, an old, grey-
headed man, who was much employed during the war of the revolu-
tion, but rather for the economy of the army, over which he had great
influence, than 011 account of any ability he could be fuppofed to poflefs
for actual fervice in the field. He is now an old man, and very feeble.
His wife is as old as himfelf, but much more lively in converfation. Like
the other ladies of America, me has read a great deal on a variety of fub-
je&s. She has even publimed one or two volumes of tales, which are
much efteemed ; and has written a hiftory of the American revolution,
which her hufband and me have, with great prudence, refolved not to
fend to the prefs while they live, but to leave for publication after their
death : the truth may then, they fay, be fafely declared. In the mean
time, this work has been read, in whole or in part, by feveral friends,
who give it the character of an impartial and well- written work. This
old lady, at the age of feventy, is truly interefling ; for me has loft nei-
ther

486 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

ther the a&ivity of her mind, nor the graces of her perfon ; though flic
ilill laments the death of a fon fhe loft in the war, with the fame ten-
dernefs and earnefl forrow as on the day on which he fell. She ftill
reads his letters, has his portrait conftantly in her view .; but notwith-
flanding all this fond attachment to his memory, is equally . affectionate
to her furviving children. One of thefe, I faw at the houfe of General
Lincoln, who had likewife furFercd, during the war, by tlxe. lofs of his
leg, in a fea-fight, on board a frigate. This refpeetable lady is deicended
from a family who are like herfelf diftinguiihed for genius .and lite-
rature. She is fifter to Mr. OTIS, a lawyer of great reputation in
Mailachufetts, who had a confiderable mare in the revolution, and is
faid to be a man of great merit. He is father to Mrs. Lincoln, whom I
mentioned above.

Plymouth is the principal town of the county of the fame name, a
diftricl: that contains twenty-nine thoufand inhabitants* The foil is
rugged, and not very fertile ; but it is full of iron ores, which fupply
materials for very confiderable iron manufactures.

DISTRICT OF NEW BEDFORD.

. The road from Plymouth hither, is tedious and very imperfecl:. Ply-
mouth lies at the diftance of not more than thirty miles from New Bed-
ford ; and both thefe towns belong to the fame ftate. Yet, fo rare is the in-
tercourfe between them, that no perfon in Plymouth could inform me of
the direction of the road to New Bedford, farther than for the firft fix
miles. Amidft continual enquiries concerning the road which is little
ufed, and interfered by many crofs paths, I wandered out of my way.
I was, befides, milled by the mifchievous waggery of a dumb man,
which fent me aftray five miles farther. But few houfes are to be feen in
this tra6t, and thefe lie a,t wide diftances from one another. The ground
is rugged, and the foil fandy. The woods, which extend all the way,
confift chiefly of firs and birches, moft of which are likely to be burnt for
charcoal. The burning of charcoal is the only fort of induftry in which
the people are feen to be engaged, along the whole road. There is

abundance

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 487

abundance of iron-ftone, fufficiently rich in ore for working, here as well
as at Plymouth. There is every where an air of poverty, the efFecl
either of a poor or of an ill-cultivated foil. I had great pleafure in falling
in with two negro families, who live here on fmall poffeffions of their
own, which they maintain in as good a ftate of culture, as thofe of their
neighbours* Such 'inftances are not rare in the ftate of Mailachufetts.

A heavy and inceiTant rain, by which i was wetted to the fkin,
obliged me to halt at Middleborough, at a fmall inn, the landlord of
which was concerned in the iron-works. The iron-ore is found in Pond
Allowamfet, in great plenty, either at the furface or at the depth of a
fmgle foot under water. This red ore fometimcs contains a fourth part,
fometimes not more than an eighth part of pure iron. The ore is dragged
from under the water, in nearly the fame manner as oyfters are raifed
from the bank. It is now, however, much lefs abundant than formerly.
A man who, fifteen years fmce, would have been able to gather two or
three tons in the year by his own labour, can now fcarcely procure one
ton. Another pond adjacent to Middleborough, yields this ore in greater
quantity ; but it is deeper, and confequently the ore is lefs eafily to be
raifed from its bottom.

The mafters at this work earn forty dollars a month ; the common
workmen are paid at the fame rate as the labourers in huibandry, which
affords them feven or eight dollars a month. Land cofls two dollars an
acre, unlefs w hen it is iuppofed to contain iron-ore ; and in this cafe,
the price is higher or lower, according to the degree of its richnefs in ore.
This inn {lands at eighteen miles diftance from Plymouth. Its beds were
fall of workmen from the forges and nail-makers ; but the landlord pro-
mifed me a bed as fbon as the rain mould ceafe. The rain continued to
fall, till it was too late to reach New Bedford that night ; I was, there-
fore, obliged to halt, after travelling five miles farther, at an inn of
mean appearance, which hunger and fatigue made me regard as com-
fortable.

Next day about noon, I entered New Bedford. It is not above thirty
years fince this town was founded. It w r as one of thofe places which

fuffered

488 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

fuffered the moft during the war of the revolution. Ships, warehoufes,
dwelling-houfes, were all burnt by the Englifh. The loiTes w T hich
the town fuffered, exceeded three hundred and thirty thoufand dollars.
Trade did not foon revive ; but is now, however, at a greater height
than ever.

The diftricl: of New Bedford comprehends five frnall fca-port towns
New Bedford, Weftport, Rochefter, Wareham, and Dartmouth. The
four laft of thefe are, properly fpeaking, only docks for (hip-building*
Moft of the mips built in them find immediate fale, either at New Bed-
ford or in fome other harbour belonging to the United States. There
belong, at prefent, to thofe few towns, twenty veiTels, of from thirty
to eighty tons burthen each, which are employed in the coafling- trade,
all except two or three, which go to the fimery upon the great bank.
New Bedford is a place of greater trade than the others ; builds more
veffels ; and has a good road, which is at leaft excellently flickered
from the eaft wind. The land round New Bedford is, in general, far
from fertile ; and there are many other fea-port towns on the coaft of
MafTachufetts. The exports from this place are therefore confined to
fruit, pulfe, maize, falted flem and fifh, with fome coarfe iron- work.
Thefe vefTels are not always freighted from this port, but are ufually
hired by the merchants belonging to it. Thofe from New Bedford are
engaged chiefly in the whale-fifhery, which is confiderably fuccefsful
nigh the ifland of Nantucket, at five and twenty miles diftance from
New Bedford.

New Bedford employs, at prefent, twelve veffels in the fimery, each
from one hundred and fifty to two hundred and feventy tons burthen.
Nantucket fends out thirty vefTels ; Bofton, two or three ; Rhode-Ifland,
one.

THE WHALE-FISHERY.

Whales are found on the coaft of Brazil, and in the Pacific Ocean in
the fame latitudes, in the Weft Indian Seas, and as far eaft ward as to the
Cape of Good Hope, from the eighteenth to the twenty-fifth degree of lati-
tude.

Y THE DUKE DE LA tLOCHEFOVCAULT LIANCOURT. 48Q

tude. The mode in which they are taken, is .well known*; but I believe
the information 1 am enabled to offer poflefles fome mare of novelty.

The deftination of the nfliing-voyages is fo fettled, that the return pf
the mips is expected within the courfe of from ten to eighteen months
after their departure. The nfhing is not always alike fuccefsful. But,
it never fails to afford the owners a profit of at leait twenty per cent upon
the adventure, the expences of fitting out which are very coniiderable.
Befide the coflof-the vefTel, there are alfo to be reckoned, the expence
of two boats, of lines, harpoons, axes, kettles, barrels with iron hoops,
and provifions for the crew, to the amount of five or fix thoufand dollars.
The crew receive no wages, but have a certain mare of the blubber.
The captain has a fifth part ; the pilot a five-and-fortieth, or a fixtieth part
of what they take. A veifel of two hundred and fifty tons burthen will
return with two hundred and ten or two hundred and twenty tons >of
blubber, befide the whalebone. In 1 7Q3, the medium price of bjubber,
or whale-oil, w r as fixty-five dollars a ton. The blubber of the fpermaceti-
whale was at the rate of one hundred dollars a ton ; that of other whales,
fifty-five dollars a ton ; thefe laft are very plentiful in the feas. The price
is now twice as much. The increase of price is owing to the extraordi-
nary demand for train-oil and fpermaceti-candles, and to the fmall num-
ber of the mips, which have lately gone from Europe upon, the whale-
fifhery. The captain's profits from a fuccefsful voyage amount to Jbe-
tween eight and nine hundred dollars for common years, but at prefent
to between fevciiteen and eighteen hundred dollars.

A fhip of one hundred and fixty tons is manned with a crew of fifteen
perfons. Of thefe, twelve man the two boats in the purfuit of the whales ;
while the other three remain on board. Larger vefiels have a third boat and
fix additional hands. The blubber, which has been barrelled at fea, is. to
be again put into frefh barrels, and cleared from a fediment that is formed
in the barrels., before it be carried to market ; for though the fediment
be as fit as the reft for ufe in the foap- works, yet the oil in which it
appears is regarded as of inferior quality in the European market. This
-fediment, and a for of "white flcrn, which-is found ia theJicad and belly

3 U of

4()0 TRAVEI IX NORTH AME1UCA,

of the whale, are then fqueezed in a prefs. A new quantity of oil of the
beft quality is thus obtained. The refidue, which remains after the nrft
prefling, is put again into the prefs, and more forcibly fqueezed than be-
fore. It affords a certain quantity of oil ; and it is the produce of this
laft fqueezing which, after undergoing a boiling, is poured into moulds,
and forms fpermaceti candles. Thefe are fold for half a dollar a pound.
Thofe which are fpermaceti -fifties yield this matter in great quantity.
In their heads alone there are often five or fix tons of this matter ; though
the other whales have the head differently compofed, and do not afford
above a quarter of a ton out of each head. Thus all whales yield more
or lefs of this matter which is fo much valued as a material for candles.

The vefTels for the fimery are built without any very remarkable pecu-
liarity of ftru&ure. Only, there ftands, between the mails, a great caul-
dron for the making of the oil, and the openings on the decks are
made unufually wide, in order that the barrels may be the more eafily
moved up and down. The oil, when it is hot, is apt to penetrate and
injure the wood of a newly built, veflel ; and, on this account, it is ufual
to fend fhips on a voyage or two to Europe before employing them in
the whale-fifhery. Thofe merchants, who are concerned in this fifhery,
are accuftomed to purchafe vefifels which have been built two or three
years. The alterations neceflary, to fit them for the ufe of the fimery,
are inconfiderable.

From all that I had heard or read, I was lead, to think the whale-
fifhery to be a very perilous employment to the men who are engaged
in it. They muft meet, as I mould have fuppofed, with many un-
happy accidents. I have, however, been allured of the contrary. The
fleet from Nantucket, confifling of thirty veflels, did not lofe, laft year,
a fingle man ; this year they have lofl but two men. People here can
fcarcely recollect a fingle inllance of any perfon lofing his life from any
accident in the fiftiery. Neither here nor in Nantucket can any inftance
be mentioned of a man's having been killed or hurt by any of the whales..
The boats are indeed, often overturned by the whales.

Hudfon's Bay, and the feas adjacent to the coafls of Greenland and

Labrador^

BY THE DUKE DE LA. ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 4Q1

Labrador, abound more than the fouthern feas, in whales, and thofc of a
larger fize, and fuch as afford oil of a better quality. But the ice, which
floats there in vaft mafles, renders the fifhing much more dangerous in
thefe northern latitudes. One of thefe maiTes of ice ftriking againft a
fhip is fufficient to dafh it in pieces. Befides, the mips cannot remain at
fea, for a fuffi cient length of time, upon the coafts. Some American
fhips repair to that fifhery as they return from Europe ; but, in general,
the whale-fifhery in the northern feas is abandoned to the European fimer-
men.

Although the fifhery on the coafts of Africa and the Brazils be ftill fuf-
ficiently fuccefsful, yet it is thought that the numbers of the whales in
thofe parts begin to be diminifhed. The reafon affigned for this is, that
fuch a number of the famales of this fpecies are annually deftroyed, with-
out which the young ones can neither be produced nor nourifhed imme-
diately after the birth. (The Englifli call the males, females, and young
of the whale, bulls, cows, and calves).

Twenty years fince, whales were confiderably numerous on the coafts of
America. Even within thefe fix or feven years, whales were to be found
here, though not in fuch numbers as formerly. At prefent, it is thought
a very remarkable occurrence, if one mould happen to be feen in thefe
parts. The whales have been frightened entirely away, fo that two or
three mips can hardly procure a tolerable freight for the feafon, by fifhing
in thefe leas. The fpermaceti-whales have been found chiefly in the In-
dian ocean, on the coafts of Africa and Madagafcar, in the Pacific ocean,
and on the coafts of Peru and Chili.

Train-oil and fpermaceti-candles are brought into different fea-ports of
America by fhips belonging to New Bedford, which has alfb two or three
veffels employed in the trade to Europe. Twenty fhips belonging to the
fame ports are conftantly engaged in the coafting- trade. But this laft
trade is fo languid that the cuftom-houfe dues arifing from k, for the firft
nine months of the year 1795, did not exceed two hundred and nineteen
dollars. During the whole year 1790, it yielded but one hundred and
fifty-fix dollars. As to the amount of the yearly exports from New Bed-

3 R 2 ford,

TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

ford; the value of thefe was, in the year 1791> twenty-fix thoufand three
hundred and forty-four dollars ; in the year 1 792, twenty-feven thoufand
one hundred and feventy-fix dollars; in 1793, twenty-feven thoufand
eight hundred and forty-four dollars ; in 1/94, eighty-two thoufand and
eighty-five dollars; in 1795, fixty-two thoufand two hundred and two
dollars.

The harbour lies at the diftance of eight miles from the mouth of ther
river AcchuiTnet. The anchorage is excellent. That part of the breadth
of the river, which is navigable to veiTels of a certain burthen up to the
town, is very narrow ; the reft of the river being very lhallow, and full
of rocks. The harbour is befides protected by a fort, beyond which fhips
entering it cannot proceed more than a quarter of a mile. The river
AcchulThet pours its waters into the bay of the fame name. This bay
has alfo a communication with Buzzard Bay, which is feparated from the
bay of Cape Cod by an ifthmus of the breadth of three or four miles.
There is a project for cutting a canal through the ifthmus.

The trade of New Bedford is almoft all in the hands of Quakers. About
one-half of the inhabitants are of this feel:. They are, in general, an ho-
neft, frank, orderly, fet of people. I received a pretty full account of
them from WILLIAM RUSH. He is proprietor of fix velTels. His family
has been, for fome generations, engaged here in trade. With the moft
obliging rcadinefs to fatisfy any enquiries which are made of him, he
joins an uncommon clearnefs of ideas. His father is one of thofe inhabi-
tants of Nantueket whom M. DE CALONNE invited to Dunkirk, to in-
troduce the bufmefs of the whale-fimery into France. In 1/86, Rufli be-
gan the bufmefs of the whale-fimery at Dunkirk, with not more than
two fhips ; and, in the year 1793, no fewer than forty mips failed from
Dunkirk to the whale-fimery. Certain it is, that trade and mercan-
tile opulence were rapidly increafing in France, at the time when the
revolution commenced, and the prefent war broke out. When liberty
fhall be fecurely and permanently eftabliihed in France, that activity,
which is a well-known characleriftic of liberty, will be much more alive
than ever, to the improvement of every branch of induftry and com-
merce.

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 4Q3

merce-. Pcrfons of all ranks will then take a part in whatever can aug-
ment the honourable opulence of the land ; and our country will be raifed
to the higheft pitch of profperity.

This worthy Rufh, who is now fixty-five years of age, has all the acti-
vity of a young man. He went to France with ilrong prejudices againft
it; yet, nothing lefs than the crimes and disorders which he there wit-
netted would have been fufficient to make him leave that country afid
return to America. He loves the character, the fprightly manners, the
mode of doing bufmeis, which prevail among the French nation. He is.
pleafed with the integrity of the French merchants, and delighted with
the climate of France. He fpeaks, in ftiort, as a Frenchman ; but, he
abhors the crimes which have attended the revolution. Of its excefles
he judges for himfelf with tendernefs, yet with difcernment.

TOWNSHIP OF NEW BEDFORD; COUNTY OF BRISTOL; VALUE
OF PRODUCTS, AND OF LABOUR.

In the country round New Bedford, where the foil is, in general, of
moderate fertility, confiderable numbers of oxen are annually fattened for
the fupply of provisions to the fhips in the harbour, and to thofe even
which belong to Nan tucket. Land cofts from twelve to eighteen dollars
an acre. Beef is fold at the rate of fix-pence a pound. Flour is here
fcarcc, as well as in all the other fmall towns of Maflachufetts. It cofts
at prefent from thirteen to fourteen dollars a barrel. The bread is com-
monly made of maize and barley ; and this is indeed the ufual bread
throughout the whole ftate. Bifcuit is the only wheaten bread to be
found in the inns. The wages of all forts of ordinary labourers are at the
rate of from eight to nine dollars a month. Ships coft from forty to
forty-two dollars a ton. New Bedford lies in the county of Brifbol, of
which the head-town is Taunton. This county contains about thirty-
eight thoufand inhabitants, and is remarkable for the great abundance of
iron-ore which it affords. A copper-mine was here lately opened for the
jfirft time.

RHODE

49 4 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

RHODE ISLAND. NEWPORT. MR. ELEM.

The road from New Bedford to Rhode Ifland, like that from Plymouth,
is rugged with rocks and loofe ftones, and leads through a hilly tract of
country. You pafs through the townfhip of Weftport, and near that
part of the river where veflels are built, which take in their cargo at the
diflance of a mile below. Only two fchooners belonged to this port ; but
of thefe one has been recently wrecked on the coaft of Salem, on its re-
turn from a voyage to the province of Maine.

The boundaries of the ftate -of Rhode Ifland commence at the diilance
of three miles on this fide of the bay, at a place called ufually Eafl Paf-
fage, where it is propofed to build a bridge for the purpofe of connecting
the ifland with the main land. This pafTage is not broad, and the depth
of the water is thirty feet. But, the tide flows and ebbs with fuch'a
ftrength of current, that the toil of creeling the bridge cannot but be
extremely difficult, and k will be no eafy talk to give it perfect lia-
bility.

This ifland exhibits a continued fucceffion of meadows and fields of
maize. Barley is likewife produced here in confiderable abundance. The
breweries of Philadelphia and New York furnifh an advantageous market
for this laft article. Formerly this ifland was extensively covered with
fruit-trees and other wood. But thefc the Engliih destroyed during the
war. The foil is light, fandy, and, in general, unimproved by manure
or fkilful tillage, The medium produce of the meadows is a ton of hay
per acre ; the ground under tillage yields, an acre, twenty-five bufhels of
maize, or one hundred bufhels of potatoes. There are inflances of greater
produce ; but thefe occur only where particular land-holders have culti-
vated their ground with unufual intelligence and care. In the neigh-
bourhood of Newport, where dung can be purchafed for the eafy ex-
pence of half a dollar the ton, the land is more plentifully manured, and,
in confequencc of this, yields even to the amount of ninety bufhels of
maize per acre. But, fuch imlances are rare, and occur only where the

foil

BY THE DITKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

foil is both naturally rich and well improved by manure and tillage. The
common extent of the farms is feventy acres. Some fmall number of
them contain two hundred acres ; and three or four, even four hundred
acres.

The farm of SAMUEL ELEM, to whom I had a letter from William
Rufli, is four hundred acres in extent. He is the only farmer in the ifland
who does not perfonally labour upon his own ground. He is an Englifh-
man, from Yorkmire. He came hither as a merchant before the revolu-
tion. The length of his neceirary flay gave him a fondnefs for the coun-
try, and inclined him to fettle in it. He lives in a fnug fmall houfe, five
miles from Newport, and near to Eafl PaiTage. Agriculture is the only
bufmefs that he now follows. He does not boafl of having found it, as
yet, very profitable. But, he finds the condition of life agreeable, and
fufficiently fufceptible of improvement from his turn for curious obfer-
vation, and his attention to the proceffes of nature. This farm, on which
he has been fettled thefe fix years, begins to be in a good flate of cul-
tivation. The flone fences inclofing his fields are higher and better
than any I have feen in Maffachufetts. His meadows are in a flate of
improvement and fertility, which is considerably profitable. But the dif-
ficulty of procuring labourers flands greatly in the way of all agricul-
tural improvements in thefe parts. As Mr. Elem is the only farmer in
the ifland who does not labour with his own hands, fo he often meets
with a contradictory fpirit in his working-people, who are apt to think,
that their toil muffc make them more fkilful in hufbandry than their idle
mafter. His cows and oxen are diflinguifhed as fuperior to thofe of the
reft of the ifland, w r hich, however, are, in general, very good. His fheep
are of the befl fort. Their wool is eafily fold at the price of a quarter of
a dollar the pound, and each fleece yields two pounds and a half. In
fummer he keeps from one hundred to one hundred and fifty, but in
winter reduces this number to fixty. From the firfl of December to the
fifteenth of May, he keeps his cows and oxen in flails ; but that is not
the general practice of the farmers in the ifland. Either from poverty or
prejudice, moft of them have no cow-houfes. They put up their hay in

the

4C)Q TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

the meadows ; and give daily, in winter, a certain quantity of it to the
cattle in the open fields. There falls fo little fnow in the ifle, that no
great harm feems to refult from this practice. Only the horfes and the
milch-cows are flailed in winter.

The cheefe of Rhode Ifland is famous throughout all America ; but
the only cheefe which thcfe parts now furnifh. for exportation is from
the ifles of Connanicut and Block, which make part of this flate. On
Rhode Ifland itfclf, few of the farmers keep fuch a number as to pro-
duce more cheefe than is necefTary for their domeflic ufe.

The following reafons are affigned for the poverty of the farmers of
Rhode-Ifland. It is ufual for the young people, at the age of thirteen,
to leave the family of their parents, and to go into the fervice of others.
The parents find it vain to endeavour to detain them ; for, if not per-
mitted to do as others do, they will not work at home. In confequence,
other labourers are to be hired ; and that accumulation of flock is materi-
ally hindered which might be befl produced by the joint labour of a whole
family, without hired affiflance. Befides, fo many are difpofed to be-
come farmers for themfelves, even without arfy adequate flock, that la-
bourers are not to be procured for any reafonable hire, even in cafes of the
mofl urgent neceffity. 2. It is a difad vantage alfo to the agriculture of
this territory, that it is every where adjacent to the fea. The young peo-
ple have, in confequence of this, been long accuflomed to prefer a fea-
-iaring life to hufbandry, becaufe the former affords higher wages in mo-
>ney, and is more grateful to the roving fpirit of inexperienced youth.
Even the reiidcnt farmers are tempted to join the fifhing with the toils of
hulfoandry, as the fifhing affords, at all times in the year, a very plentiful
iupply for the nourifhment of their families. They, confequently, take
little care to improve the foil to its highefl pitch of cultivation. The
fume thing may be faid of the inhabitants along all the fea-coafl of Ame-
rica. 3. There is a want of a regular and profitable market for the fuper-
fluous produce of the ifle. There is, indeed, a market-place in the town
of Newport ; but the farmers rarely bring their grain hither for fale ; nor
<lo thofe who are in want of it refort to this market to fupply themfelves.

The

BY THE DUKE DE LA 11OCHEFOUCAULT LIAXCOURT.

The farmers bring their flcfh, corn, beans, and peafe to the town, and
there place it in houlcs for falc. When purchafers do not appear, as is
often the cafe ; the quantity is far from being fufficiently coniklerable
to become an object of commercial fpeculation for foreign export, to
the merchants. 4. There is fuch an extreme fcarcity of wood, that no
farmer who is in want of it, can fupply himfelf at a lefs price than four
or five dollars a cord. In confequence of this want of trees, the w r hole
ifland is too much expofed to the winds, which often blow over it with a
very troublefome violence. There has been a remarkable difference in
the produce of fruit upon the farms of this iile, ever fmce the great trees
were deftroyed by the "Engliih during the war. 5 . The elections to all
places in the government, and to the legiflative representation, are re-
newed every fix months ; and the frequent journies and public meetings
which thefe occafion, feem to withdraw the attention of thefe people,
in too great a degree, from their hufbandry. 0. Laftly, the people of
Rhode-Ifland are fmgulurly illiterate. Scarcely has the whole ifland a
fingle well-conducted free-fchool ; fuch is the oppofition of prejudice to
every thing of this nature. The public records of the fmall flate of
Rhode-Ifland are in greater diforder than thofe of any one elfe.; and
this diforder is a primary caufe of the ignorance of its inhabitants : fo
that all their defects in the refpect of knowledge, are plainly to be
charged to the mifconduct of their rulers.

The price of land varies, throughout this ifland, from five and twenty
to five and thirty dollars an acre. It has remained the fame for thefe fix
years ; and its rife fcems to be prevented by the exorbitant price of la-
bour. In the townmip of Newport, land is fold fomewhat dearer than
elfewhere.

Approaching Newport, you fee the heights where the Engliih long re-
mained, when they were matters of the town, They fei zed thofe heights
at the moment of their landing.

Newport is accounted the chief town of the flate of Rhode-Ifland. It
is the mojft ancient ; the deputies of the flate hold their afTemblies in it :
Providence is more populous, and carries on a more confiderablc

3 S trade.

TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

trade. Before the war, there were in Newport ten thoufand inhabitants ;
in Providence, not more than one thoufand. Providence now contains
feven thoufand ; Newport, but five thoufand inhabitants. Many of the
richer inhabitants of Newport have defeated it. A number of families for-
faking this town in the time of the revolution, while it was in the pof-
feffion of the Englifh, retired to Providence, and fettling there, have-
never fince been induced t change their refidence. Thofe, on. the other
hand, who were attached to the caufe of England, went away with the
Englifh troops, when thefe were obliged to evacuate the ifland. Politi-
cal dhTentions, which long diftracTied Rhode-lfland, contributed farther
to this defertjon of Newport. It is only within thefe lafl two or three
years, that its trade has begun to revive. It has twelve veflels of fome
confiderable burthen, engaged in the trade to Europe; two or three
which fail to the coaft of Guinea for cargoes of negroes, which they
bring for fale to Georgia and the Weft-India Ifles ; forty more, which
are employed in the coafling-trade, and fail only for the colonies. The
coafting- trade is that which the people of this town chiefly prefer.
The amount pf the exports from Newport was, in 1/91, of the value of
two hundred and feventeen thoufand three hundred and ninety-four dol-
lars ; in 1 792, two hundred and fixty thoufand three hundred and .thirty--
feven dollars ; in 1 79 3, two hundred and forty- feven thoufand eight hun-
dred and fifty dollars; in 1/94, three hundred and eleven thoufand one
hundred and ninety-five dollars; in 1795, three hundred and feventeen
thoufand eight hundred and fixty dollars.

Barley is the principal article of agricultural produce, which it fur-
nifhes for exportation. The iiles of Connanicut, Patience, and a third
that lies in the bay, are ufually fown, with corn, in preference to any other
Article of crop. Some little wood from that part of the flate which is
contiguous to the main-land;, as well as in an adjacent part of Maffa-^
chufctts ; and large quantities of flax, an article much cultivated here ^
are annually exported out of Newport. The barley exported from Rhode-
Mand, is freighted rather on board the fhips from Providence, than in
thofe from Newport. The ihips from Providence carry it chiefly into

the-

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 4QC)

the fouthern ftates, from which they bring, in return, other cargoes,
either to fome port in the United States, to Europe, or to the Weft-
India Hies.

The houfes of Newport are almofl all very fmall, and miferably bad :
they are of wood, and not painted. In the town, every thing wears the
appearance of decay ; but the harbour has a fhew of opulence and active
commerce. The vicinity of the fea, the fpacioufnefs and fecurity of the
road, its cafmefs of accefs, and its convenient fituation, render it a very
commodious melter for veflels going from the fouthern parts of the main-
land of America, towards the northern, or from the north fouth wards. It
is indeed more frequented than any other port, by foreign mips. New-
port, with all thefe advantages, feems to be naturally deftined to become
a harbour for mips of war, whenever the United States mall alTume the
confequence of a Naval Power, It will then, no doubt, be more care-
fully fortified, than at prefent. A fort on Goat-Iiland, and a battery on
the oppofite more, are the only means of defence which it poffeiTes at
prefent, and are certainly inadequate to protecl: its entrance. The firft
power with which the States mould be at war, would find thcfe unable
to oppofe any naval force which it mould fend to occupy the harbour.
Goat-Ifland has been ceded by the^ftate of Rhode-Iiland to the United
States.

In Rhode-Bland there is the fame freedom of religious worlhip and
opinions, as in Pennfylvania. Baptifts and Quakers are the moft prevail-
ing feels ; but the people in general, in this ifland, are far from being
religious overmuch. In the whole ifland, which is fifteen miles long and
three miles broad, there is no church, except at Newport ; and to this the
country-people do not refort above four times in the year. The people
of this ftate are reputed to be indolent, quarreUbme, and litigious. Thefe
faults of character, if juftly imputed, are fufricient to account for their
poverty. There is faid to be a great uncertainty- of political opinions in
Rhode-Hland : they were not unfavourable to the abominable tyranny
of Robefpierre ; they are far lefs friendly to France fince the guilt of
that tyranny has been fupprciTed, and order rcftored. Before the war,

3S2 there

500 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

there were many opulent inhabitants in Rhode-Ifland : at prefent, only
the niins of their houfes, and the traces of their former inclofures, re-
main to be feen. The houfes are either defolate, or are inhabited in
their leaft ruinous parts, by people who, on account of the fmallnefs of
their capitals, their diflike to labour, and many other reaforis, are much
inferior in condition to the people of the other parts of New England.

In the high-church of Newport, there is a monument creeled by the
order of Louis the fixteenth, to the Chevalier de TERNAY. He was
commander of the fleet which conveyed M. ROCHAMBEAU and the

French army to America. He died at Newport in the year 1 780. The
infcription is in a very fimple ftyle, and fpeaks very much in honour of
M. de Ternay.

The State of Rhode-Ifland is very proud of having given birth to Ge-
neral Green, one of the greateft, if not abfolutcly the greateft, of Ame-
rican generals. He was, by birth, a Quaker, and was a refpeclable
trader in Newport. But, for the fake of liberty, he quickly iriook off
the prejudices of his feel, and abandoned his bufineis. He went, in the
very beginning of the war, to contend againft Britifh oppreffion. In the
whole courfe of this memorable war, there was not a battle, not a fkir^-
mifh, in which Green did not diftinguifh himfelf by iignal valour, and
extraordinary military talents. His found and difcerning mind rendered
often the moft important fervices in the Council. He is, above all, fa-
mous for his expedition into the fouthern ftates, in the year 1781. At
the head of a fmall force of not more than one thoufand or one thoufand
one hundred men, fcarcely clad, raw, and animated by nothing fb much
as by their confidence in General Green perfonally ; he, by a variety of
the moft ikilful (fcratagems^ and plans of annoyance, and by the exertion
of extraordinary courage, forced the Englilh to retire gradually from the
provinces of Upper Virginia, North Carolina, and almoft all South Caro-
lina ; delivering the injured, harrafTed, and fcattered inhabitants of thofe
defolated_ territories, from the mifery and oppreilion under which they
had Jong groaned. He rcftored the unhappy fugitives to their habita-
tions, and compelled the Englilh to retire into York and Charleftown,

where

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIA.KCOURT. 501

where they were foon finally vanquifhed by the joint arms of the French
and Americans. Green, no lefs humane in victory, than brave and en-
tcrprifing in warfare, flamed his triumph with no atrocities, notwith-
tfcanding the provoking example which had been fet by the Engliih. He
was the ardent friend of liberty, without laying afidc, on this account,
all refpect to natural juflice and humanity. His whole life was fpent in
a continued train of virtuous actions. After thefe illuflrious deeds in the
field, he was hailed as the deliverer of the foutaern flates, and received the
thanks of the Conarefs. He died within a few years after the eflablilh-

o /

ment of American freedom. The Congrefs erected, at the public ex-
pence, a monument in honour of his patriotism, his virtues, and his
talents ; and in fo doing, gratified the earnefc defire of ail true-hearted
Americans.

The State of Rhodc-Ifland had, likewife, another eminent perfonv
whofc military talents and valorous activity diflinguifhed him, on the
one hand, though not fo much as did his notorious perfidy and bafenefs
on the other. This was the traitor A*****.^ He was, before the
war, a trader and dealer in cattle, as I have been afTured. He efpoufed,
with great ardour, the caufe of his native country. He quickly diflin-
guilhed himfelf by the expedition into Canada, and by that famous and
daring march through the weflern parts of the province of Maine to the
river of St. Lorenzo, a tract which had been, hitherto, accounted inac-
ceffible to an army. A***** was one of the inferior commanders un-
der General Gates, and had a mare in the glory of the fortunate day of
Saratoga. In many engagements, previous to the great and decifive
events of that day, he had greatly diflinguifhed himfelf. Soon after, the
unprincipled A*****, being corrupted by Englifh gold, to his eternal in-
famy, became, towards the clofe of a war in which he had fo gallantly
fought, the worft enemy of his native country. He defired, no doubt,
to preferve his rank, and expected as much, as. was clear from the confi-
dence with which he folicited it. But the Englifh government, though

t A***** Is, however, well known to have been a native of Norwich, in Connec-
ticut, Tranjtator.

they

5O2 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

they could avail themfelves of treachery, abhorred, the traitor.
lives with a large or a fmall penfion, God knows in what corner of Eng-
land, covered with ignominy, and aware, that his name is never pro-
nounced by his fellow- countrymen without abhorrence, and that h^
muft ever be detefted as the treacherous, though unfuccefsful betrayer of
American freedom. " What will the Americans do to me, if I fall into
tlieir hands?" faid he once to a prifoner, " They will take away that
leg from you, which you broke in their fervice, and bury it honour-
ably," anfwercd the prifoner, " then, by the other, they will hang you
up as a traitor."

After fpending an evening at the houfe of SAMUEL ELEM in the coun-
try, and after halting for an hour in Newport, I went gladly on board a
fchooner belonging to Bofton, to take my pafl'age to Providence. I was
to return within the fpace of two days from that town ; as I expecled my
horfe to arrive within this time ; and propofed then to proceed towards
New London, along the great bay by which Rhode-Man d is feparated
from the main-land. The wind, though fair when we fet fail, veered
about within the fpace of an hour, fo that we were forced to return to
Newport, after having been three hours tacking about at fea, without
advancing two miles on our voyage. I paffed the reft of the day in
Newport, with my friend Samuel Elem, the beft of Quakers, and the
worthieft of men. He is a bachelor, rich, fond of trade, and of rural
life,

BRISTOL. WARREN,

Worthy Samuel Elcm ftill infifted upon doing the honours of the
country towards me. On Saturday, the 24th, he conducted me to the
extremity of the iiland, where I might obtain a paflage to Briftol. His
politenefs was joined to an engaging fimplicity of manners, extremely
different from that roughnefs and drynefs of addrefs, which are ufually
attributed to the Quakers.

Although I travelled by a way different from that by which I had en-
tered the ifland, yet I could perceive no remarkable diverfity, in either

the

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 503

the appearance of the dwelling-houfes, the cultivation of the foil, or the
general character of the hufbandry. The profpect of the bay, of the
rflets with which it is interfperfed, and the main-land contiguous to the
bay, is extremely pleating. The paflagc from the ifland to Briftol is a
mile in breadth ; it is crofted in a ferry-boat with a imgle fail ; it is large,
deep, and fecure : the only inconvenience attending it is, that horfes can-
not be eafily brought on board it ; my horfe was considerably hurt in the
attempt.

On the oppofite more, as far as to Warren, a diftance of fix or feven
miles, the land is more fandy, and more ftony, than in the ifland : but r
it yields great quantities of fruit and of pulfe, that is reputed to be of
very excellent quality.

Briftol is a fmall fea-port town lying on the bay. It carries on fome
trade to the Antilles. In the year 1775, the houfes were almoft alt
burnt to the ground by Captain ***#, who commanded a fmall Englifh
fquadron. They have been rebuilt, and are now more numerous than
before that difafter.

Warren is nearly fuch another port-town as Briftol ; eight or ten mips
a year are built in it. Barrington, another fmall fea-port town, which
rs divided from Warren only by a river of its own name, was begun to-
be built in the year 1 769, and confifts now of about one hundred and
fifty good houfes. Some few merchants refide in thefe three fea-port
towns ; but the mips belonging to them are for the moft part employed
in the trade from Providence. Thefe fmall villages are much better
built than Newport. The value of land has rifen here to at leaft three
times as much as it formerly was, according to an.eftimate founded upon
the prefent amount of the taxes.

Two miles beyond Warren, the road turns to. Providence in Mafia-
chufetts. The land is there, for feveral miles, fo fandy and boggy, that
no ftones can be found, for fences. On the other hand,, wood is fo fcarce,
and fo coftly, that it can as little be applied to this ufe as ftones. Yet
the fields are enclofed with fences, which,, to two-thirds of the height,
are formed of turfs, with crofs-bars of timber above. In other places

where

504 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

where fames are not fo fcarce, the fences are formed one-half of itones,
one half of wood.

I know not whether it might be, that the information which I re-
ceived in Newport, impreiied me with unfavourable prejudices againft the
people of Khode-Ifland : but 1 could not help thinking, that, in the
fhort part of my way which now led through the ftate of Maffaehufetts,
I received much more obliging anfwers to my enquiries, than in the dif-
tricl which I had left.

1 had, however, no reafon to complain of my reception with MOSES
BROWN, to whom I had a letter of introduction from William Rufh.
He lives in a farm not far from the upper bridge over Deacon's River, on
the way to Providence. Mofes Brown is a very ftricl Quaker ; became
a Quaker upon conviclion ; and has been fuch for the fpace of forty years.
He acquired a confiderable fortune in trade, of which he has refigned the
greater part to his fon ; and he himfelf now lives in quiet ceiTation from
bufmefs, tranfa&ing nothing of that fort upon his own account. Not-
withftanding the ruftic fimplicity of his manners, he feemed to be a very
worthy man. He prefled me to ftay with him for the evening, telling
me, that he did not afk me in the w r ay of empty compliment, but that
if he had not defired my company, he would not have given me the in-
vitation. I excufed myfelf, by mentioning, that as I had but very little
time to fpend at Providence, and as the weather, though generally un-
certain, w^as now fair, I muft, therefore, avail myfelf of the prefcnt mo-
ment, and proceed on my journey.

The environs of Providence are more interefting than thofe of New-
port : and they give to -an approaching traveller, very favourable ideas of
the town which he is about to enter. The hill at the foot of which the
town lies, and over which you muft pafs into it, is interfered into two
parts by a paved road, which has a flow and gentle defcent. The
town lies on both fides of the river : a well-conftrucled bridge affords a
ready communication between its two divifions. Lofty, well-built and
well-furnifhed houfes, are numerous in this town, which is becoming
continually larger : and the profpecl; of an encreafe of wealth and po-

puloufnefs

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 505

puloufnefs, has induced the inhabitants to fet apart a confiderable ex-
tent of the adjacent hill for new buildings. The trade of Providence, as
I mentioned above, is four or five times as great as that of Newport.
Its exports are partly from this ftate, and in part from MaiTachufetts and
Connecticut, A diftillery, perhaps the greateft in the American States,
extenfive manufactures of nails and of other -forged iron-work, contribute
much to the exportation from this place.

In the courfe of this laft year, endeavours have been made to intro-
duce the manufacture of cotton-yarn and fluffs into Providence. The
author of this undertaking fays, that he finds it already profitable: But I
mould fufpecl: this to be, rather the boaft of fanguine .expectation, and of
felf-conceit, than the actual truth of the facls. All machines in America
are indeed more or lefs profitable : but the machinery which requires
workmen to be employed about it, is by no means to be compared with
that of Europe, where a truly good workman gets one-half lefs than, .ip.
America, efpecially in its lea-port towns.*

There are fome mips from Providence engaged in the accurfed traffic
of negroes, in contempt of the orders of Congress, by which it has been
forbidden. The merchants concerned in this trade perfuade themfelves,
that Congrefs cannot alter the Constitution ; and therefore think, that in
fpite of whatever Congrefs mall order, they may continue the flave-trade
till 1808, the year fixed in the Conftitution for its final ceflation. They
allege farther, that every ftate poflerTes a right to decide for itfelf in re-
gard to this traffic ; and that the ftate of Rhode-Ifland has not, as yet,
made any enactment againft it. They therefore purehafe negroes, and
carry them to fale in Georgia, where there is no prohibition of any fort
againft the trade. Nearly twenty mips from the harbours of the United
States are employed in the importation of negroes to Georgia, and to
the Weft-India iiles.

I am furprifed, that, while there is fo ftrong and general a difapproba-
tion of this whole trade, and while .it is in fuch direct contraditfion to

" Farther details concerning the trade of this place, with an account of the trade and
conftitution of Rhode-Tlland, may be feen in the journal of the tour of 1796.

3 T the

500 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

the fpirit of freedom, and to the predominant fentiments throughout
America, Congrefs mould neglecl: to interpofe, and entirely fupprefs it
here. I was informed, that this is about to happen : But it is likewife to
be owned, that the merchants of Puiode-Ifland carry on the flave-tradc
in a way lefs orFenfive to humanity, than that in which it is conducted
by the merchants of Europe. They take but one negro for every ton-
of the ihip ; while the Englifh merchants, it is faid, take from one and
a. half to two negroes a ton. Even in fetters, the negroes have more
room, and furTer lefs. The fhips engaged in this trade are ufually not
very large ; and the negroes, as 1 was allured, commonly arrive at the
place of their deftination in good health.

There goes but a fingle veffel from Providence to the whale-fifliery.
Ill fuccefs has occasioned fome others, which were formerly employed in
the fame fiihery, to be withdrawn from it. The maritime traffic from
Providence is principally that to China, and to Nootka Sound. The
augmentation of the number of the mips belonging to this port, the in-
creafe, and the improved elegance of the buildings, is more the confe-
quence of the growing wealth of the people of the place, than of any
new refort of foreigners to fettle here.

This fmall ftate, fituate in the middle of New England, differs much
from that ftate, by peculiarity of cuftoms, ufages, and opinions, which,
whether good or bad, have neceflarily a great influence upon the govern-
ment. There feems to be a general defire for a change of the conftitu*-
tion of Rhode-Ifland.

The population of this whole ftate amounts to about fixty-eight thou-
fand fouls. The higheft amount of the taxes is twenty-thoufand dollars
in the year. When it is confidered, that the Governor's falary is only
fix hundred and fixty-fix dollars and two-thirds ; and that the members
of the aiTembly receive no falary ; this moderate fum will not be thought
inadequate to the purpofes to which it is to be applied. Newport fur-
nifties three thoufand nine hundred and fixteen dollars, two-thirds of this
fum ; and Providence contributes feven thoufand one hundred and twenty
dollars. The taxes paid by the country are nearly equal to thofe from
the towns. There are but few poor to be maintained by public charity,

BY THE DUKE DE LA R.OCHKFOUCAULT LIANCOUKT. 5O7

in this Hate. The roads are repaired by the common labour of the inha-
bitants. No extraordinary expence is ever applied to the improvement
of the roads. The ftate is fo fmall, that thcfe people give themfelves very
little concern about highways. In travelling, they call the roads good or.
Bad, without farther care. When there is any thing of indifpenfible no
ceffity to be done to them, they then raife a voluntary fubfcription to ac-
complim it.

The number of people really opulent in this ftate, is not confiderable ;
nor is the number much greater of thofe who affect the appearance of
wealth ; for this laft is prevented by the democratical fpirit of the confti-
tution, and by the tone of public opinion throughout the country. There
are, befides, certain taxes impofed, particularly upon thofe who live in a
fumptuous ftyle. There is in Providence a college for the education of
youth in the different branches of learning ; but fo far is it from being
very eminent or in high reputation, that they who w r iih to give their
children a good education, fend them to Maflachufetts or Connecticut.
The funds for the fupport of this college were beilowed chiefly by Bap-
tifts ; in confequence of which it is fettled, that the prefident, and the
greater part of the other teachers muil belong to that religion ; and they
are, therefore, chiefly young perfons of the Baptift feel; who are educated
in it. The Quakers are not much in favour here. They have an aufte-
rity in their appearance, an extravagance in their principles, and an oddity
in their cuftoms, and even in their drefs, which, in my opinion, differ
widely and difadvantageoufly from the amiable Simplicity of the character
and manners of the Quakers of Philadelphia.

But here, as elfewhere, the Quakers ftrongly difapprove of flavery, and
of the traffic in negroes. On this account they are looked on with an
evil eye by the flave owners ; becaufe the fmallnefs of the Hate renders it
exceedingly eafy for the flaves receiving any encouragement to that effecl,
to make their efcape from their mailers.

In Providence there are fome rich merchants, who expend their wealth
by living in a conilderably fumptuous ftyle. Such are Meflrs. CLARK
and NIGHTINGALE. 1 had a letter of introduction to them. The former

T t 2 received

508 TRAVELS IX NORTH AMERICA,

received me very hofpitably, and feemed to be a man of found intelli-
gence, and confiderable information. By him I was introduced to an*
inhabitant of the town, who had lately returned from France. This
man fpoke ftrongly againfh the revolution, and the crimes to which it
had given birth. He, at the fame time, related, that at the Caftle of
Vincennes, he had obtained an excellent bargain of the property of an
emigrant, and named others who had been as great gainers as he, by the
profcriptions and confifcations ; I know not the gentleman's name ; if I
did, I fhould think it my duty to make it public.

The richeft merchant in Providence is JOHN BROWN, brother to
Mofes Brown, the Quaker above mentioned. In one part of the towi*
he has accomplished things that, even in Europe, would appear confi-
derable. At his own expence he has opened a pafTage through a hill to
the river, and has there built wharfs, houfes, an extenfive diflillery, and
even a bridge, by which the road from Newport to Providence is Ihort-
ened by at leaft a mile. He has fold many of his houfes. At his wharfs
are a number of veffels, which are conftantly receiving or difcharging
cargoes. In his diflillery he maintains a great number of oxen, the la-
bour of which is extremely ufeful, and a great faving of expence to him.
I had no letter of introduction to him ; and my flay in Providence was
too fhort to admit of my becoming acquainted with him. I exceedingly
regretted to find myfelf obliged to leave the town, without converting
with a man, the extent of whofe eftablimments, and the fuccefs of whofe
trade, evince him to be a perfon of extraordinary .intelligence and en-
largement of mind.

At Providence, and throughout the whole ftate, the produce of the
land is nearly the fame- as in the ifland. It yields of maize from fifteen
to twenty bufheis art acre, and of other produce in proportion. There
are two churches in Providence, one for Anabaptifts, another for Preiby^
terians: They are diftinguimed for the neatnefs and Simplicity .in their
ir.ruchire arid decorations,

The wages to 'ihip-ca-rpenters and other labourers, are nearly the fame
in Newport and Providence, as in New Bedford. But negroes are almoft
the only fervants to be feen.

The

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

The flate of Rhode liland, and particularly the ifland, have fuffered
a confiderable lofs of population by emigration to the newly occupied
lands, and in particular to Canada. Fewer in proportion have gone from
Maflachufetts than from this ftate. Befides, Maffachufetts is receiving
a continual influx of new inhabitants. There are banks in both thefe
flates. That of Newport is of recent erection. Its notes are generally
for one dollar each.

SCITUATE AND FISH'S TAVERN.

Scituate is a townfhip. Fim's Tavern, where I pafled Sunday, is at
the diftance of twenty-fix miles from the town. The road thither, leads
over hills, is ftony, rugged, and indeed as bad as a road can poflfcbly be.
The farther you proceed on the way from the Providence, fo much the
more barren is the appearance of the foil, and fo much poorer and more
unfrequent are the dwelling-houfes. There is an extenfive tracl: of wood,
confifting chiefly of dwarfifh, oaks, firs, and birches.. The meadows are
indifferent, and unimproved by culture ; yet fome pretty good cattle are
to be feen upon them. Sometimes thefe meadows open in the midft of
the wood; in other inftances they are only adjacent to it.. Some of the
fmall rivers put in motion faw-mills, and iron- works, which have been
creeled upon them ; yet all has an air of poverty and meannefs. Some
beautiful vales are feen as one travels along this road. The weather is fo
rainy, that even the worft meadows difplay an extraordinary luxuriance
of grafs for this time of the year.

On my arrival at the inn, I found there Mr. TRUMBULL, a member
of Congrefs, who was on a journey with his family. I had feen him once,
before in Philadelphia.

NORWICH AND NEW LONDON.

After paffing Fifh's Tavern, I found my way not quite fo bad, for about
feven miles farther, ftill within the territory of Rhode-Ifland, and through
a tracl: of country nearly limilar to that by which I had come hither.
When I had entered the confines of Connecticut, I found both the land

and

510 T11A.VELS IX NORTH AMERICA,

and the roads in a better condition. On the borders the foil is nearly
the fame, but in a better ftate of cultivation. The houfes, indeed, are
not greatly better. Yet both thefe and the fields, the farther you ad-
vance, affume a more advantageous appearance. There are a good many
ftreams of moderate breadth ; and though along the whole road the land
be light and fandy, yet the hay-ftacks are frequent and large, and the
number of the cattle muft, of courfe, be confiderable. At Norwich are
a number of mills, forges, and faw-works. This fmall town lies on a
creek or river, which falls into the river Thames, juft where that river
begins to be navigable. The harbour lies at about two miles diftance.

From Norwich to New London the foil is better, though ftill light.
The fiirface of the country is diverfified by feveral vales, through which
various fmall rivers, creeks, and ftreamlets, difcharge their waters into the
Thames. Clumps of trees, like thofe in England, are fcattcred over all
the fields. The profpect is not extennVe, but fmiling and agreeable.
The houfes are larger, and more handfomely decorated. The inhabitants
are better clad, and make as good an appearance as thofe of Maflachu-
fetts. One part of the road is in a very good flate of repair, and a toll is
exacted for horfes and waggons paffing along it. The navigation of the
river admits veffels of an hundred tons burthen to come up as far as
Norwich ; and this, with the trade of New London, gives an air of acti-
vity and animation to the whole country adjacent. You enter the town
by a pafTage -cut over the declivity of a hill ; perhaps lefs carefully finifhed
than that at Providence, yet not precipitous, and far from being bad.

New London lies on the banks of the river, at two miles diftance from
the fea. Its principal ftreet is a mile in length. The houfes do not
ftand clofe together.; but the intervals between them are fmall, and are
every day more and more filled up with new buildings. An adjacent
ilreet, running parallel to the main ftreet, contains feveral confiderable
and handfome houfes. New London was burnt in the year 1781, by
the Englim, under the direaion of the ******* ARNOLD ; and the da-
mage done on that occafion was equal to the fum of five hundred tkou-
fand dollars. It is at pr.efent among the towns of the fourth order ; and
though it be environed with rocks, its afped is fufficiently agreeable.

New

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT HANCOURT. 51 I

New London is reckoned the principal fea-port town in Connecticut.
The anchorage is fate ; the depth of water confiderable ; the entrance
difficult. The harbour is protected by the two forts of Grefworth, on
the eaft banks of the Thames, and Trumbull, on the oppofite bank on
which the town ftands. 1 faw only the latter, which is in a bad condition.

But, attention to thefe fortifications is the lefs necefTary, on account
of the fmallnefs of the river. Ships belonging to Norwich take in their
cargoes at New London ; thofe which exceed one hundred and twenty
tons burthen, take their lading in Connecticut river, at Newhaven.

In regard to the cuftom-houfe, the diftrict of NewLondon lately extended
to Connecticut river. The reprefentations of the merchants on the latter
river, to the laft feffion of Congrefs, procured the port of this river to be
erected into a new commercial diftrict ; and the diftrict of New London
to be limited to the ports of New London, Norwich, and Stonington, a
fmall port on the river Stoneg, in that part of Connecticut which is adja-
cent to Rhode-Wand. The diftrict of New London employs, atprefcnt,
about fix thoufand tons of mipping in the foreign trade, an equal quan-
tity in the coafting trade, and fix or feven fmall veflels which belong to
Stonington, and are engaged in the capture of flock fifhes. The veiTels
belonging to the foreign trade are, at an average, of one hundred and
ten tons burthen each. Thofe in the coafting trade are veflels of eighty
tons. The exports from New London were, in the year 1791* five hun-
dred and eight thoufand nine hundred and ninety- three dollars in value ;
in 1/92, five hundred and nineteen thoufand three hundred and thirty-
three dollars; in 1793, five hundred and forty-eight thoufand fix hun-
dred and fifty-eight dollars; in 1794, five hundred and fixty-thrce thou-
fand four hundred and fixty-eight dollars ; in 1 795, five hundred and
feventeen thouiand eight hundred and fifty-eight dollars.

The exports from New London are fent, almoft all, to the Weft In-
dia iiles. They confift of horfes,. dried beef and pork, mules, fowls, cat-
tle of all forts, beans and peafc, timber, butter, cheefe, and faltfim. Thefe
articles are named here in the order of the quantities in which they arc
exported : that of which there is the greateft proportion exported, being

named

312 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

named firft ; and .that laft, of which the exportation is the fmalleft.
Horfes and black cattle are reared in great numbers in this ftate ;
but a great proportion of thofe which are hence exported, come from
the northern ftates of New York, Vermont, New Hampfhire, and Mafia-
chufetts.

The negligence of the merchants of Albany, which fuffers a profitable
trade to be carried away from them ; and the activity of the failors and
merchants of New London, in lading and unlading their veflels ; are the
principal caufes which enable the people of this port to engrofs fo much of
a traffic fo advantageous. It is affirmed, that though the cattle be crowded
together in the veflels, to an incredible number, not one out of an hun-
dred dies in the paflage. The Ihip-owncr farcies the fodder, which
is always the beft that can be procured. The captain has a certain
monthly hire, but no fhare in the profits of the freight ; only, when he is
intrufted with the charge of the fale in the iilands, he then receives five
per cent commiffion.

All the cattle exported from Norwich, and -often alfo thofe from Con-
necticut River, come by land to New London, and are there put on
board fuch veflels as are ready to receive them. Salted pork and beef, but-
ter and cheefe, are likewife exported from this harbour, in large quan-
tities, to the other Hates. Many of the mips which convey thefe cargoes,
take returning cargoes to Europe, or to the colonies. The whole expor-
tation to Europe confiils of not more than a dozen fhip's cargoes a year,
which go to England or Ireland, and confift of wood, lint- feed, potatoes,
pearl -alhes, and fumac, which a merchant of this port prepares for ex-
portation, by an invention of his own, for the fole benefit of which he
enjoys a patent right for the fpace of fifteen years. The fumac grows in
great plenty on the uncleared grounds. It is firft cut into fmall pieces,
and dried, then reduced to a coarfe powder, and in this condition applied
to the purpofes of dyeing. It is fold at the rate of eighteen dollars and
one- third a barrel ; and for thefe laft two years there have been exported
not lefs than two thoufand barrels a year.

.As to the fiihery, the places where the fifhes are taken, is at fuch a

diftance.

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 513

diftance, that the fifties cannot be brought to New London to be dried.
This bufmefs is carried on between the ifles adjacent to the province of
Maine, and the coafts of Labrador ; but, for ready fale, the fifh is brought
to New London, and thence to the colonies, and to New York or Bofton.
The veflels are then freighted, ufually to the colonies, rarely, if ever, to
Europe. The merchants of Connecticut have not fufficient capital to
enable them to await the flow return of money from the trade to Eu-
rope. The cargoes fent from Connecticut, are almoft all deftined for
Bofton or New York. There are, however, fome exceptions.

The veilels of this port do not all belong to the merchants of New
London. Some of them are the property of merchants belonging to
Hartford and New York. Few merchants in Connecticut trade to the
extent of more than thirty thoufand dollars, even including with their
capital, their credit, which, indeed, does not go far. The capital of the
merchants experiences here a much fmaller annual augmentation, than
in any other port of America. In the courfe of thefe laft years, it has
increafed about a fifth part ; and in this increment is included the im-
provement and increafe of the buildings of the town. I received all thefc
particulars of information from Mr. HUNTJXGTOX, collector of the cuf-
toms for this port ; a man of integrity, difcernment, and correct infor-
mation.

The beft land in the whole di-fbricT:, which lies in the neighbourhood
of the town, does not coft more than twenty-five dollars an acre. Its
average rate is one-third more than in Rhode- Ifland, including the iflc.
The price of labour is alfo higher here. Labourers in hufbandry receive
here two-thirds of a dollar a day, or from thirteen to fourteen dollars a
month. The winter, or the time in which the cattle muft be fupplicd
with dry fodder, lafts from four months and a half to five months. Many
of the farmers never houfe their cattle. There is, on this account, a want
of ftalls and cow-houfes ; but the more opulent farmers are more careful
of their cattle in the winter.

New London contains four thoufand inhabitants. It has a bank that
was eftablimed in the year 1/82, and of which the capital is fifty thou-
fand dollars. It has, however, been augmented by other fifty thoufand

3 II dollars.

514 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

dollars. The management is the fame as that of the bank at Hartford,
but I am not able to explain it. The notes are for a dollar. The divi-
dend upon the capital is three and a half and four per cent., payable
half yearly. New London is the principal town of the county of the
fame name. It contains about thirty-five thoufand inhabitants, of whom
five hundred are Haves.

CHELSEA.

Proceeding from New London to Hartford, I-was obliged to travel
back, by the way of Norwich. But inftead of paffing that tow T n, I
went by its fea-port, which is named Chelfea, and is faid to lie at the
diftance of two miles from the moll populous part of the town of Nor-
wich. The river, which is formed by the junction of the Quinaboug
and the Shetucket, begins here to take the name of the Thames. The
Thames is faid to be every where twelve feet deep, and is here about an
eighth part of a mile in breadth. There might be in it, as I palled,
about a dozen fchooners, yachts, and brigs. On the two fides of the
river there might be from one hundred to two hundred handfome houfes.
Some of thefe houfes were of a very good appearance ; and there was a
communication between the two fides of the river by a wooden bridge.
A mile from the bridge on the way to "Norwich, Quinaboug is feen to
precipitate itfelf over fome pretty high rocks, with a cataract which is
well worthy of being feen, particularly on account of its bold precipi-
tous fituation, and the height of the rocks by which it is formed, as well
as on account of the uncommon appearance which is occafioned by the
fall of the w r ater.

The bank of Norwich, which was eftablifhed in the month of May
1/Q5, is formed upon the fame plan as that of Hartford. Its capital con-
lifts of from fifty thoufand to two hundred thoufand dollars ; for by the
conftitution of the bank, it may be augmented from the fmalleft to the
largeft of thefe iums. The mares are one hundred dollars each ; and
the notes, of which there have not yet been many nTued, are for half a
dollar.

Norwich.

BY THE DUKE DE LA IIOCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 515

Norwich and Chclfea contain, together, about three thoufand inhabi-
tants. Mills of all forts are lltuate in the vicinity ; and their bufmefs is
very confiderable.

Between Norwich and Lebanon, particularly in the vicinity of Nor-
wich, there is a good deal of wood to be feen. Almoft all the tops of
the hills are covered with it. The declivities, and the vales within view
of which the way leads, are, in general, under cultivation.

LEBANON.

In Connecticut, the lands are, for the greater part, appropriated a$
pafturage for cattle. The environs of Lebanon yield more, in this way,
than any other part of the State. The townfhip lies in the county of
Windham, which contains about twenty-nine thoufand inhabitants, of
whom one hundred and fixty are negroes. The population of Lebanon
amounts to about four thoufand fouls. Thofe houfes, which are fituated
together, may be from one hundred and fifty to one hundred and fixty ;
they lie all in a fmgle ftreet, which is between two and three hundred
toifes in width, and ferves as a fort of common pafture for the cattle.
The houfes are, in general, fmall, but neat ; and, if they exhibit no fhew
of affluence, as little do they prefent any marks of the wretchednefs of
poverty. Such is, in general, the appearance of the houfes throughout
Connecticut.

Befide meep and fwine, of which the breed is good, and the number
every where confiderable, the people of Lebanon keep, in general, for
every two acres of land an ox, a cow, and a mule. They fell off, every
year, a fourth part of their black cattle, without diftin&ion of age. But
horfes are not fold before they be three years old ; nor mules, till they be
two years old. The farmers purchafe mules for the work of their farms,
at the rate of forty or fifty dollars a head.

A more fkilful hufbandry, a careful choice and culture of grafs-feeds,
a judicious manuring of the lands, an attentive watering and cleaning of
the meadows, might render the profits of the farmer feveral times greater
than they at prefent are. The exceffively high price of labour may be

alledged

5 if) TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

alledged here, as elfewhere, to be the great reafon of the prefent imper-
fection of the 'hufbandry of Connecticut. Yet fuch a reafon can have
lefs force in the cafe of pafturage than in that of tillage. The true caufes,
are ignorance and a bigottcd pcrfeverance in old practices. Very little of
the land here receives the benefit of manure. No pains is ufed to collect
the dung which might be eafily accumulated in large quantities. The
labourers can earn from ten to twelve dollars a month. The beft land
coils twenty dollars an acre.

The houfe of Mr. Trumbull, member of the Congrefs has, like him-
ielf, an air of fimplicity and modefty. One finds it necefTary to make an
effort of the mind, and to lay afide European prejudices, in order to re-
concile one's felt' to the idea, that this is the houfe of one of the richeil
men in the State, a man who holds one of the moft important places, in
the federal government. I cannot fufficiently praife the hofpitality with
which he received me, or the amiable qualities of his worthy family.
Mr. Trumbull has a brother who is famous for his genius in painting.
He has undertaken a feries of hiflorical paintings of the moft remarkable
events of the war, by which his country's independence was eftablifhed.
Several of thefe have been already exhibited in England, fmce the efta-
blifhment of the prefent government of the United States.

HARTFORD.

The land between Lebanon and Hartford is nearly in the fame ftate,
as far as I have feen, \vith the other parts of Connecticut. The wood is
chiefly fine oak and hickory. A few large trees are fmgly fcattered here
and there in the open fields. The wood has the appearance of having
either been long fince planted, or elfe of belonging to the old native woods
of America. The foil is light, and is very much covered with ftones ;
though, what is furprizing, the houfes are all of wood. The land is,
every where, more or lefs hilly. It indeed expands into a fine plain for
the fpace of eighty miles, along Connecticut River. The foil confifts
chiefly of a hard gravel or fand. The meadows exhibit more of a lively
verdure, and the dwelling-houfes, every where confiderably numerous in

this

BY THE DUKE DK LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIA27COURT. 517

this ftate, become iVill more fo, the nearer you approach to Hartford.
You are rowed acrofs the river in a ferry-boat, in the immediate neigh-
bourhood of the town.

I felt myfelf difappointed when I heard that Colonel WATWORTH was
not in the town. I had become acquainted with him in Philadelphia ;
and he had given me a preffing invitation to vifit him here. In the ex-
pectation of finding him, I had neglected to procure letters to any other
perfon in this place. It was farther unlucky, that feveral perfons, whofe
wealth and pcrfonal importance ranked them among the moft eminent
men in the United States, were, however, unable to give fatisfactory an-
fwers to thofe enquiries which I was the moft defirous to make ; and I
thus faw myfelf likely to be difappointed in my attempts to obtain any
particular information concerning a town that is accounted to be the chief
place in the State of Connecticut. Yet, in two or three houfes, into
which 1 gained admiflion, and in an inn that was much frequented by
the people of the town,. I met with fome hofpitable and intelligent per-
fons w T ho refuied not to favour me with anfwers to the questions which I
put to them. The following is the fubftance of what I was thus able to
learn.

1. Hartford contains about fix thoufand inhabitants. Their number
is yearly increasing in the fame proportion as the population of New
London increafcs. 2. From fixty to eighty vefTels of from twenty to
fixty tons each, belong to this port, agreeably to what I was told at New
London. Some mips of two hundred tons burthen are, at prefent,
in building. Thefe muft fail, without a lading, down the river, aa its
ufual depth is not above fix feet of water. 3. The traffic of Hartford is,
as to the exportation of provisions, the places to which thefe are exported,
and the cargoes brought in return, of the fame fort with that of New
London. 4. Land in thefe parts cofts, in the purchafe of a farm, from
thirty to forty dollars an acre; and it yields crops of wheat. 5. The
manufacture of cloth which had been, fome years, eftablilhed here, in
which Colonel Watworth had a large concern, and which had been car-
ried to no inconfiderable perfection, is now in the decline. Thofe who

firft

518 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

firft engaged in this manufacture, have relinquished it. Their fucceffori
are threatened with great lofles, in confequence of the fcarcity of work-
men : for, it is fo much more profitable to go to fea as mariners ; and
there are fo many invitations to fettle in the country as petty farmers ;
that but few, in comparifon, are difpofed to remain in the condition of
working artifans in a manufacture. Thefe circumftances are adverfe to
the eftablimment of manufactures in the United States in general. Yet,
fince machinery, applicable to almoft all the arts, is fo ealily moved by
the force of water and fire, the fame quantity of human labour is no
longer neccflary to manufactures.

But, the neceffity for manufacturing eftablifhments is not fo great in
Connecticut as in many other places. For it is here ufual for every fa-
mily to prepare their own clothing ; fo that the expence of clothing from
Europe is little felt by the poorer clafs of the inhabitants.

Hartford is a fmall town, regularly built, and interfered by a fmali
river which defcends, in its approach to this town, through many beautiful
meadows ; and men meadows are very frequent in thefe parts. The houies
are fmall and neat ; no one of them, being of a better appearance than
the reft. A houfe is now in building for the reception of the meetings
of the aflembly of the reprefentatives of the State, which are held, alter-
nately, in Hartford and Newhaven. The foundations of this houfe are
laid with great folidity of ftruclure, and are built of a fort of red ftone
that is common in this country. Its two upper ftories are of bricks ; and
the whole is almoft finifhed. Its appearance is very good ; but it has a
plainnefs and fimplicity, of which the French architects would, perhaps,
not readily approve.

The appearance of the country round- Hartford is charming. It exhi-
bits a fucceffion of meadows which are naturally fo well watered, that
they difplay, at all times, the lively verdure of fpring. Black cattle,
horics, and mules, in great numbers, are feen feeding upon them ; and
abundance of trees, efpecially fruit trees, are difperfcd around them. The
land is not yet very completely occupied in this neighbourhood ; and, by
confequence, the houfes are not exceedingly numerous. Neither are the

hgufes

BY THE DUKE BE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

iioufes fo handfomely painted and decorated as in the environs of Bofton.
But, fmall as they are, they eafily contain every thing that is requisite
for the prefent accommodation of their inhabitants ; all, in fhort, that,
according to their own expreflions, is necefTary to render them comfort-
able. The appearance of the oppofite fide of the river is ftill the fame.
On both fides are fine meadows, ikirted by pretty high hills which run
parallel to the river.

During my ftay in the inn, I learned that, in thofe parts of Connecti-
cut which lie along the river, and contiguous to MafTachufetts, there is a
confiderable quantity of hemp produced, that fupplies materials for a ma-
nufaclure of fail-cloth in Springfield, in which twenty men are conftantly
employed, and which, during thefe feven years which have elapfed fince
its eftablimment, has afforded large profits to the owners.

Hartford is the chief town of the county of the fame name. The
county contains thirty- two thoufand inhabitants, of whom about two
hundred and fifty are flaves.

The bank in Hartford was creeled in the month of May 17Q2, con-
ibrmabiy to an a& of the legislature of this State. Its capital is one hun-
dred thoufand dollars, and may be augmented to five hundred thoufand.
The mares are of four hundred dollars each. The directors are forbidden
to circulate paper to the amount of more than fifty per cent upon the
whole capital. This bank does but little bufmefs ; and its rate of dividend
is only three per cent for every fix months. Their notes, for a dollar each,
are current in payment, along Connecticut River, and for fome difhmce
beyond. There is another bank which alfo accepts them in payment.

MIDDLETON.

The country from Hartford to Middleton is chequered with frequent

woods, and enlivened with numerous herds of cattle. The road leads

along the bank of a river ; fometimes approaching its edge, fomctimts
retiring, though never farther than half a mile, from it. After proceed-
ing ten miles, 1 came to Weftfield, a fmall fea-port, where two or three
ihips, three brigs, and two fchooners, were lying. The fhips were built at

Middleton,

5'20 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

Middleton, this very year. Other mips, belide thefe, belong alfo to Weft-
field, but the reft were out at fea.

M idleton is the market-town to which the farmers from the northern
parts of New York, Mafiachufetts, and Vermont, bring for fale, thofe
horfes, mules, and black cattle -which they can fpare, to be exported to
the Weft India iiles. Some fmall veflels take on board their cargoes at
Middleton ; jbut, New London, as I have already mentioned, is the more
ufual place for lading. Hartford mares with Middleton in the advan-
tages of this cattle-market. Middleton is a handfome town, not inele-
gantly built, and has trees planted along its ftreets, but is not one-fourth
part as large as Hartford. This fmall place has but few mips. Middleton
is, however, the feat of the cuftom-houfe for this diftricl:, on account of its
nearnefs to the mouth of the river, from which it is not more than twenty-
nine or thirty miles diftant. When the tide has flowed in, to its greateft
height, there is from nine to ten feet depth of water at Middleton.

At the diftance of two miles from this town, there is a lead-mine which
is faid to have been wrought amid the neceffities of the late war. But,
it is fo poor in ore, that the working of it would ruin the proprietor, even
though the price of labour were cheaper.

The exports from Middleton amounted, in the year 1795, to the value
of thirty-one thoufand three hundred and feventy-five dollars. It was
only in the year 1 794 that the cuftom-houfe was eftablilhed here. A
bank was inftituted in Middleton in the month of October 17Q5. Its
capital conilfts of one hundred thoufand dollars ; and, by its conftitution,
may be augmented to four hundred thoufand dollars. The regulations
for its management are nearly the fame as thofe of the bank of Hartford.
No dividend has, as yet, been paid to the proprietors.

Middleton is the chief town of the county of the fame name. The
whole number of inhabitants in the county is about nineteen thoufand, of
whom two hundred are flaves.

From Middleton, the highway leads on toward Newhaven, between
the river and the hills which rife on each fide, in a parallel direction, and
at no great diftance from its banks. The afpecl of this trat of country

BY THE DUKE DK LA ROCHEFbl'CAULT tlAttCOtiRT. 5'it

is little interefting ; it is but thinly inhabited ; its fields difplay no lively
verdure ; its cultivation is negligent ; its general appearance is difagree-
able. Here is a greater fhow of wood, confuting chiefly of oaks, and
exhibiting no pines. Such is the ftate of the country, to within ten
miles of Newhaven. The way is fometimes ftony ; fometimes merely
fandy. When you come within ten miles of Nevvhaven, the hills
gradually fubfide ; and you pafs along a tracl of morafs. The pains
requifite to make the road firm and dry, though it might have been
eafily fuccefsful, appears to have been neglected. The tide rifcs to
within four miles of Newhaven ; and often fo fwells the fmall river of the
lame name, as to make it fpread over the highway. To-day it was dif-
fufcd to the diftance bf half a mile. Were the land here kfs marmy,
and lefs frequently flooded ; yet the foil is fandy and incapable of fertility.
Seme filver firs are thinly fcattcrcd over this tracT:, ami make but a poor
appearance. It has not the appearance of a territory fit far tillage, but
may anfwer well enough for pafture-land.

NEWHAVEN,

The town of Newhaven covers a pretty large fpacc of ground ; for, its
houfes are detached, by confiderable intervals^ from one another. A
number of corn-fields lie in the very middle of the town. The ftrects
crofs one another at right angles, and are fhaded with rows of trees.
The houfes are almoft all of wood, and there is none of them handfomc.
Two great ftone buildings, belonging to the college, with the church and
the aflembly-houfe, {landing round the church-yard, compofc the prin-
cipal part of the town.

But, the afpeft of this town is, on the whole, pleafing. Its fituation
fccms to be a healthy one ; and, it is believed, that the proportion of
annual deaths is, at leaft as fmall here as in any other town belonging to
the United States. Yet, the yellow fever made great havock in this
.place laft year ; and, in the prefent year, many have been fvvept off by
un epidemic dyfentery, both here and in Hartford. Of one hundred and
fifty pcrfons who died here in the months of Auguft, September, ami

3 X October,

511 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,.

Odober, out of a population of five thoufand fouls, ninety-five died
of a dyfenterv.

The harbour lies on an arm of the fea, about four miles in length,
which is formed between Long-Ifland and the main-land : but it is dry,
\vhen the tide has ebbed ; fo that, till a new quay fhall be built, mips
cannot conveniently take in, their cargoes here. The flowing tide, how-
ever, fills this harbour with fix, and ordinarily with four feet of water.
The anchorage, though, worfe than that at New London, is, however,
pretty good.

No fewer than fifty mips belong to this port. Only one of thefe fails
to Europe : Another makes its voyages to the Weft Indies, with cargoes
of wood, oxen, mules and horfes, which are fupplied from the adjacent
country to the dillanc-e of forty miles round. The remaining vefTels
are engaged in the coafting-trade, particularly with New York. The ex-
ports from Ncwhaven amounted, in the year. 1/91, to the value of one
hundred and fifty-one thoufand and forty-three dollars; in 1/92, to two
hundred and feven thoufand and forty-one dollars ; in 1/93, to one hun-
dred and forty-fix thoufand three hundred and eighty-feven dollars ; in
1 7Q4, to one hundred and feventy-one thoufand eight hundred and fixty-
nine dollars ; in 1/Q5, to one hundred and eighty-four thoufand and
eighty-two dollars.

The whole of the veflcls in the harbour does not exceed three thou-
fand tons. Eight packet-boats, failing regularly between Newhaven and
New York, convey to the latter a great part of the imports from the
ifles, together with a considerable quantity of grain, which grows in the
country about Newhaven, but cannot be here fold. The capitals of the
merchants about Newhaven appear to be fmaller than thofe of the mer-
chants in any other fea-port town of Connecticut. Not one of them is.,
alone, matter of a whole fhip. The number of owners is fuch, that they
, never think of infuring a vcffcl. When any unlucky accident happens,,
-the lofs being divided among many owners, is but a little to each. Yet,
within thefe laft two years, the lofles both by fhipwreck and capture,
have been fo great, that the merchants of Newhaven begin, like others,

UNIVERSITY

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCIIKFOUCAULT XIAXCOUPxT. 52.'.?

to 'find it prudent to infurc. Trade has been, for thefe fome years, with-
out either declining or encrcafing, in this place ; and the cafe has been
the fame with the population. The foil is, generally, rich about New-
haven. When fufficiently manured, it yields fifty bufhels of maize, an
acre ; and there is a great abundance of fca- weeds, which, in mixture
with common dung, are ufed as a very fertilizing manure. Much land,
in this neighbourhood, is covered with very old and indifferent wood,
which makes it not cafily fufceptible of agricultural improvement. Near
the town, the price of land is from fourteen to eighteen dollars an acre.
Labourers receive four or five {hillings a day, and in fummer, twelve dollars
a month, or for the w T hole fummer months, eighty dollars as their wages.
the cattle are of middling quality. The beft pair of oxen in the country--
may be >had for fixty dollars.

The w r ealth of the inhabitants of this- town is' not great. Mcft of
them have farms in the neighbourhood, which fupply provifions for their
families. Thele fmall poifeffions in the hands of the town's-people,
make it impoffiblc for thofe who have a furplus of produce, to find a fale
for it in Newhavcn ; it is, accordingly, fent to New York. A more
{biking confequence of this economy, is the neglect of improving agri-
culture.

Two opulent merchants, about a year fince, creeled a cotton-work at
the diftarice of two miles from the town. The fpinning-engine is put in
motion by water ; but the weaving is performed entirely by human" la-
bour. A great number of people are employed ; but the dereliction of
this manufacture may be foretold, as its fuccefs is oppofed by all the ob-
ftacles common in {imilar cafe. Beiides, the expence upon the build-
ings has been far too confiderablc.

A bank was erected inNewhaven, in the month of-Oclober 17Q2. Its
capital is one hundred thoufand dollars ; and is divided into two hun-
dred lhares of five hundred dollars each. It began to tranfacl bufincf?,
only in the year 1./95. The firft dividend upon the {hares, is to be paivl
n January 1/9/. Shares in it are now at a premium of five dollars
above the original price. ,tyloney is faid to have been fo fcarce, in this

3X2 place,

524 TRAVEtS IN NORTH AMERICA,

place, before the inftitutibn, that what can be now obtained at the in-
tereft of four dollars a month for the principal fum of five hundred dol-
lars, was not then to be had for lets than four per cent, a month, with
fecurity.

The ravages of the Englifh, during the war, ruined the people of New-
haven, who, to make up for their loffes, turned ufurers. The eftablifh-
ment of the bank put an end to the trade of ufury. The intereft of
money is now reduced to one or one one-half per cent monthly, to the
money-lenders ; and to them, none have recourfe, fave fuch as have no
credit with the bank.

Near NewhavyCn are ftill fhewn the rocks, among which GOLF and
WADLEY, two of the judges that condemned Charles the firft of Eng-
land, lay concealed from the fearch which was made for them, by the
command of Charles the fecond. Here is, alfo, a bridge, under which
they remained for fome days, while the foldiers, their purfuers, fought
them backward and forward,, above.

There is, in Newhaven, a college of considerably old inftitution, which
is faid to afford as good inftruclion for youth, as any other feminary in
the whole United States. To this college belongs a library of two or
three thouiand volumes, with a cabinet of Specimens of natural hiftory,.
and a fmall mufeum, which receives, every year, great additions, and
muft foon become very confiderable. There are in the town, one Epif-
copal, and three Prefbyterian churches.

The town is affirmed to have been damaged by Commodore TRY ON,
in the year 1779, to the amount -of more than one hundred thoufand
dollars. It is the head-town of the county of the fame name. The
county contains about thirty-three thoufand inhabitants, of whom four
hundred are flaves.

OBSERVATIONS ON CONNECTICUT.

The Englifh colony by which Connecticut was firft occupied, arrived
in the year 1633. They had a patent, granted to the Plymouth corn-
pan); by the Earl of WARWICK, in the year lG30. They had to con-
tend

BY THE DUKK DE LA ROCIIEFOUCAULT LlAtfCOURT. 525

tend with the Indians, who would not relinquish their territories to
Strangers without a Struggle. In 1662, the colony of Connecticut ob-
tained a charter, which fixed the form of their future government. The
people were enthuSiaStic Prefbyterians, and lived in implicit fubmiffion
to their ministers. No perfon could be, here, a freeman, without belong-
ing to the Prefbyterian kirk ; and none but freemen could have a voice
in elections.

The moSt exceSTive intolerance, the moft violent perfecution, enfued
againSt the Quakers in particular, who were treated as the worSt of here-
tics, were tortured, banimed, abufed with Stripes, even put to death.

At prefent, the constitution of the State of Connecticut, is the fame as
before the revolution. A fhort acl: declaratory of the rights of the people
of this Hate, mentions, that the old constitution eStablimed in the reign
of Charles the fecond, is Still agreeable to the people ; that the privileges
of freemen, and -the admiffion to them, mail, therefore, remain fuch as
they w r ere before ; that, in fhort, there mall be no change, except the
abolition of regal authority. The Legislature conSiSts of an Under-houSe,
or Houfe of Reprefentatives, and an Upper-houfe, or Council. Thefe
two houfes united compofe the fupreme judicial tribunal of the State, be-
fore which all fuits at law may be brought by a laSt appeal, and which
has power to mitigate or annul all fentences of inferior judges. The Go-
vernor and Deputy-governor are elected annually. The Governor pre-
fides in the Council, and is alSb Speaker in the Houfe of Reprefentatives i
beSide which, he can influence the voices of feveral other members of the
Legislature.

The meetings of the ASTembly take place in the months of May and
October. The members of the fupreme judicial court of the State, thofe of
the county courts, and the juStices of the peace, are nominated from among
the members of the legislature. The firSt of thefe three claSTes of judges
remain in office, for that precife length of time for w T hich they are no-
minated by the legislature : The two laft can be nominated only for one
year> but may be re-appointed at the end of that time. The Governor

and

52(5 -TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

and the Council name the fherifTs, who hold their office without limita-
tion as to its continuance.

The laws of England are the foundation of thofe, as well of Connec-
ticut, as of almoft all the reft of the United States. Little alteration has
been made upon them. The law concerning the fucceffion to the pro-
perty of perfons dying inteftate, is entirely that of England ; it is, now,
in full force, throughout all the American ftates ; and it provides, that
^ third part of the property of the deceafed mail belong to his widow,
and that the remainder mall be diftributed in equal portions among his
children ; but with certain reftri&ions ; fuch as, that when one of the
children dying leaves progeny, or in any fimilar cafe, his part is, of con-
iequence, to be again diftributed. The laws relative to debtors, order
the fale of the goods, moveables, and lands of the debtor, when a debt
cannot, otherwife, be recovered from him, and even allow his perfon to
be arrefted, in cafe of infolvency. The criminal law has all the feverity of
that of England. One article (of which I know not whether it be atpre-
fent in force in England, as it is one of the old laws of Connecticut) or-
dains, that whofoever mall deny the exiftence of God, or the myftcry of the
bleiled Trinity, or the divine truth of the Holy Scriptures, mall be held
unfit for any public office, till he repent and acknowledge his error ; and
that, in cafe of relapfe, after fuch repentance, he mail be put out of the
protection of the law. The laws refpecling marriage authorife divorce,
in the cafes of adultery, or marriage within the forbidden degrees of con-
fanguinity. If a man and his wife have been parted for fevcn years, by
the abfence of one or the other of them beyond feas ; or if either party ,go
upon a fea-voyage that is to be of three months continuance, and in a
fhip of which news cannot be received within lefs than three months ; or
if there be reafon to believe that either of the two parties has been loft
upon fuch a voyage ; then the other party, whether man or woman, gc-
ing before a magistrate, and prefenting iatisfa&ory evidence of thefe facls,
may obtain from him, if he mall judge all the circumftances of the cafe
to require it, a final diilblution of the marriage. This law condemns any

perfon,

FY THE DUKE DE LA KOCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

perfon, whether man or woman, that fhall put on the drefs proper to the
other fex, to pay a fine- of feventy-five dollars.

Adultery, till the year 1784, was liable to be punimed with death:.
It is now punifhed only with public whipping, and with the fearing of a
red-hot iron on the forehead. Rape is punifhed with death, upon the
oath of the woman by whom it has been iurFered, and at her exprefs rc^
queit : but there is no inftance of the execution of this law ; and the
people of Connecticut fay, that fuch crimes can never happen in the.
ftate, or, what is more probably the truth, that the extreme fe verity of
the law deters both the furTerer from, complaint, and the profligate from-
incurrina; fuch guilt.

o o

The laws againft gaming, are exceffrvely fevere in Connecticut. One
of thefe is againft horfe-racing : This it regards as an idle pleafure, which
is attended with diforder and riot, that utterly fruftrate the end of its
inilitution, as a means for improving thel>reed of horfes. The law for the
hallowing of the Sabbath, forbids all profane diversions upon that day, and
is exceflively ftrid:.. It is probable, that the prohibition of journies on a
Sunday might fall, infenfibly, into difufe, were it not, that an ill-natured
f cleft -man has it now in his power to thwart and fine any perfon attempt-
ing fuch a journey ; and that every one thinks it neceflary to avoid the
danger of being teized by fuch impertinence.

The poor's laws have occafioned the difficulty which a ftranger paiT-
ing from one town to another, or coming from another flate, finds, in
effecting a fettlement in a new fituation. The only conditions upon
which fuch a perfon can be domefticated in his new place of refidencc,
are, his either poiTeffing a property of at lean: an hundred dollars, or hav-
ing refided fix years in the place ; and without thefe conditions, he will
not obtain relief in diftrefs from poverty. The felect-men who are, in
every townfhip, the directors of the police, are to prevent the fettlement
of all ftrangers who cannot fatisfy them in regard to thofe conditions.
Every town is obliged to provide for its own poor, and the felect-men
have authority over the education and conduct of the children of poor
parents, till they arrive at the age of one and twenty years. From this

28 TRAVELS I NORTH AMERICA,

age, they are no longer fubject to the particular direction of the Elders*
The wandering poor, who are ufually wounded foldiers or fliipwrecked
feamen, receive temporary relief, at the pleafure of the felect-men.
What thcfe beftow, is afterwards repaid to them, by the Union, by the
State, or by the particular town, according to the circumftances of the

cafe.

Befide the political divifion of the liates into counties and townftiips,
Connecticut acknowledges two fubdivifions into parifhes and fchool-
diftricts. In each town or fociety, the houfeholders of the houfes which
Hand together, have a right to aflemble, and to make by-laws for the
regulation of certain parts of their common interefts. They chufe their
minifters ; and impofe, for their fupport, a general tax, at the pleafure of
the majority, and which is to be paid by every one in proportion to the
particular ftate of his fortune. The towns nominate the collectors of the
tax ; and it muft be paid by the people, without evafion. But, when
any perfon finds himfelf to be taxed, not in a due proportion to his pro*
perty ; he may appeal to the County Court, which will take care, that
juftice be done him. The collectors, as well of this tax, as of thofe for
the expences of the ftate, are accountable for the money which they levy,
find punifhable for embezzlement or malverfation in office* Minifters
for whom their parifhes refufc to make adequate provifion, can have re*
courfe to the General Aflcmbly, which will give orders for the collec*
tion and payment of the proper fums. That Aflembly has, likewife, th^
power of fettling minifters in luch pariihes as have remained, for one
whole year, vacant, and of ordering provifion to be made for the lupport
of the minifters thus fettled.

A law enacted in the year 1791> permits perfons whofe religious per-
Aiafion differs from that of the community in which they live, to aflb-
ciate themfelvcs, as to the matter of religion, with fome community of
\vhofc form of worfhip they approve, and to add their contributions to
thofe for the fupport of their own religion only. But, this is permitted
folely under thefe conditions; 1. That they make their intention previ-
oufly known to the felect-men of the town ; 2. That the religron which

they

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIAXCOURT. 529

they chufe, be forme mode of ChrhTianity ; 3. That they do not, after-
wards, claim a voice in any parochial meetings, except when the bufmefs
of the fchools is under confideration.

Prefbyterianifm is the prevalent religion throughout Connecticut. 'Its
miriifters, the zeal of its followers, and the appropriation of the places in
the colleges to Prcfbyterians exclufively, afford very great advantages, to
prevent it from being fupplanted by any other form of religion. The
Anabaptifts are, next after the Prefbyterians, the moft numerous feel; in
the ftate. Although the letter of the law have eftablifhed freedom of
religious fcntiments in Connecticut ; fuch freedom is, however, far from
being known here. Prefbyterianifm reigns in all its rigour, defpotifm,
and intolerance.

Another law long prior to the revolution, obliges every feventy families
in Connecticut, to maintain a common fchool for eleven months in the
year. Heading and writing are appointed to be there taught. If the
number of families be under feventy, they are, then, obliged to maintain
their fchool, only for fix months in the year. Every town forming a re-
gular incorporation, muft keep a grammar- fchool, in which English,
Latin, and Greek are to be taught. The different focieties are to name,
each, a deputation to viiit and regulate the fchools. For every thoiifand
dollars of taxation to the ftate, two dollars are to be paid for the fupport
of the fchools. The teachers have falaries proportioned to the taxation
of the diftri6ts to which they belong. Towns or communities entrufted
with particular funds for the fupport of fchools, can receive no intereft
from thofe funds, while they delay to erecl: the fchools for which it was
deftined ; and lofe the principal, if they {hall attempt to divert it to any
different purpofe. Towns or parifh.es having no foundations for fchools,
muft either fupport their fchools, entirely out of the appointed tax, or
muft, at kaft contribute one-half of the means for the maintenance of
thefe fchools, while the parents whofe children are educated in them, pay
-the reft. In very populous towns, the fupport of the fchools, continues
to be left to the inhabitants.

It is provided by law, that the fclect-men fhall, in every town, take

S Y cognizance

530 TRAVELS- IK NORTH AMERICA,

cognizance of* the ftate of the fchools. Upon their reports, and in
proportions in which tliefe declare the falaries to be, refpectively, de-
ferved, the towns make payment of the money which has been levied
for the teachers. Where there are no fchools, or but very bad ones;
the proportion of the tax is withheld, in order that it may be beftowed
where it has been better earned. There is, however, no inftance of a
town or pariih, remaining, negligently, without a fchool. Many com-
munities maintain their fchools for a greater part of the year, than they
are, by law, obliged to do. The feleft-men and the deputations from
the communities manage the farms and other revenues of the fchools.

The teachers are commonly young men from the colleges, ftudents of
law or theology* Their falaries are at the pleafure of the different parifhes r
from two to three hundred dollars. Almoft all thofe who now acl: a dif-
tinguifhed part in the political bufmefs of New England, began their
career as teachers in thefe fchools ; a fituation that is accounted exceed-
ingly honourable. Sometimes, where the falary is fmall, women are
chofen to be the teachers. Even thefe muft, in this cafe, be well qua-
lified to teach reading, writing, and arithmetic.

Every county muft 'have a fchool for Greek and Latin. A fine of
three dollars is exacted from parents neglecting to fend their children to
fchool. The felect-men have authority to levy it.

One natural confequence from the careful obfervance of this law is>
that hardly a perfon can be met with in Connecticut, any more than in
Maffachufetts, who is not qualified to read, write, and perform the com-
mon operations of arithmetic ; and that the general manners are better,
the laws more faithfully obferved, and crimes more rare, here, than ia
other places. The punifhment has not, as yet, been abolimed in Con-
necticut. It is, however, referved for crimes of extraordinary atrocity ;
and, for thefe laft eight years, has been, in no inftance, inflicted.

An acl, puffed in the year 1705, appropriates, for the fupport of the
public fchools, whatever fums of money Ihali arife from the fale of thofe
lands which are the property of the State, and are iituate weftwafrd from
Pennfylvania. Thefe fums are to be put out at intereft;' and the annual

revenue.

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 531

revenue, which they mall thus afford, is to be divided among the fchools
of the different parifhes, according to the proportions in which thefe
parifhes, refpe&ively, contribute to the public expenditure of the State.
At the pleafure of a majority of two-thirds of the people of any parifh,
this fund may be applied to the maintenance of the minifler, inilead of
that of the fchoolm after. Every parifh is at liberty to make this parti-
cular difpofal of its own portion of the money. But, in this cafe, all the
different feels, within the limits of the pariih, mull receive their refpec-
tive mares.

The fervitude of the negroes has not been abolifhed in this {late as in
Maffachufetts. It is here ordained by law, that every negro born in the
{late fince the year 1784, mall, at the age of twenty-one years, be de-
clared free. It is allowed, that the intereil of the law-givers had fome
(hare in dictating the particulars of this decree. No old law exifted in
favour of flavery ; though it was, indeed, countenanced by fome judicial
fentenccs of the courts, pronounced at the inftance of matters of runaway
Haves. The confiderations which moved the legiflature to determine
as they did in this bufinefs, were, rcfpecl to property, and the fear ot
dangerous confequences as likely to arife from a fudden and general
emancipation. But, fuch refpecl: for property of this nature was fla-
grant injuftice ; fmoe it was never before exprefsly acknowledged by
the laws, and exifted but by dimoneft fufferance. In regard to the
dread of confequences ; the number of negroes in the State of Connec-
ticut, was too inconfiderable to afford any plaufible pretence for fuch
alarm. The cafe of Maffachufetts, which in refpecl: to flavery, ilood in
the fame Situation with Connecticut, and in which there were, at the
time of the general emancipation, a greater number of negroes in fcrvi-
tude, fufficientty evinces the futility of this pretence. The community
have there experienced no unfortunate confequences from the ematicipa-*
tion of the negroes. Few of thefe have made any criminal abufe of their
liberty. Neither robbery nor murder is more frequent than before. Al-
anoft all the emancipated negroes remain in the condition of fervants ; as
they cannot enjoy their freedom, without earning means for their fub-

$Y 2 fnience.

'5 $'2 TRAVELS IN NORTH A.VfERLCA,

iiitence. Some of them have fettled, in a fmall way, as artilaua- or hu~
bandrnen. Their number is, on the whole, greatly diminifhed. And on
this account, the advocates for flavery maintain, that the negroes of Maf-
fachufetts have not been made, in any degree, happier, by their general
emancipation. None of them has, however, returned into fervitude in
thofe dates- in which flavery is ftill fuffered by the laws. None has died
of want. Mafiachufetts has delivered itfelf from the dishonour of the
moil odious- of all violations of the natural liberty and the inextinguifhable
rights of the human fpecies.

The militia of Connecticut, confifts of four divisions, eight brigades,.
ve and thirty regiments : oi the regiments, eight are cavalry ; five, light
infantry.. The legislature nominate the commander-in-chief, the inferior
generals, and all the itafT-officers. The other officers are cholen by their
refpe<5live regiments. They hold, all, their commiffions from the govern?-
nient. The other neceffary regulations are nearly the fame as in the
other flates. The legiflature here exercifes the fame powers of regular
tion, which are, clfewhere, intrufted with the government. The mode
of forming the militia, is the fame as in other places. All males, from
eighteen to forty-five years of age, are liable to ferve. The Governor is
General, and the Deputy-governor, Lieutenant-general of the militia.

The high-roads are made and repaired, in Connecticut, by the labour
of all perfbns between the ages of fifteen and fixty years*. An overfeer is
annually named for the infpeelion of the highways, and for regulating
the labour upon them : He is fubjeel: to the controul of the felecV
men. Care is taken to make thofe who are by law obliged, to do
their duty. Yet, it mull be owned, that the roads, in Connecticut, arc
ftill bad.

The laws refpecling taxation, have undergone many changes fince the
revolution. All property is taxable in Connecticut ; as well moveables as
land. The fubjecls of taxation are diftributed into ten. claries. Horfes,
carriages, and capital belong to one clafs, and are taxed in a due propor-
tion to the taxes upon real property. The commimoners for fixing the
proportions of every different perfon's taxation, are nominated annually ip

every

BY THE DUKE DE LA KOCHEFOUCAULT LIA.NCOURT. 553

town, and have here the appellation of Lifters. It is their duty to pro-
cure, once a year, from every inhabitant, a ftatement of his property ;
and from thefe ftatements to form a general inventory to be. tranfmitted
to the legiflature.. The legiflature, upon the inflection of the inventory,
fixes the proportion of tax which the particular town muft pay. The
lifts of the commiffioners, therefore, regulate the taxes. Though the
taxes be already fufficient ; the commiffioners muft not neglect to regif-
ter any increafe of property in their refpective towns. Perfons deceiving
the commiffioners by falfe eftimates of their property, are condemned to
pay four times as much as their juft proportion of the tax.

Thefe lifts ferve, alfo, to regulate the proportions in which other
taxes are to be levied. The Lifters levy thirteen cents of a dollar
upon every thoufand pounds of property, befide one-half of that qua-
drupled tax which is exacted, as a fine for the concealment of pro-
perty. The collectors are named by the towns, from one three years to
another ;. and are allowed two and half per cent, on the money they col-
lect, with- a falary from the ftate. When they are obliged to compel pay-
ment from the dilatory, by actions at law ; their allowance is augmented,
on account of the cofts of the fuits. The care of the Lifters, and the
Collectors, procures a faithful payment of the taxes.

-voThough every poffible precaution feems to be here provided by law, to
hinder any unfair ftatement of property for taxation ; yet, in Connecti-
cut, as in other places, men find means to cheat the revenue. As the
eftimates of property are not given in upon oath, many who would fcruple
to fwear to the truth of a falfe ftatement, make no difficulty of giving in
their eftimates, in the prefent cafe, with a carelefs inaccuracy that fails
not to favour therirfelves. However diligent, the enquiries of the Lifters
are ftill insufficient to detect every little artifice. A thoufand things oc-
cur to render it impoffible that they fhoukL . Several of the wealthieft
perfons in the ftate, have owned to me, that the taxation which they actu-
ally pay, is not above a fixth part of what they ought to pay. One mode
ef evaiiorij commonly practifed in Connecticut, is, by placing in the
lo-weft clafsj land that, on account of its fit uation, its quality, its produce,

ought

534 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

ought rather to be ranked in the higheft ; which make a difference upon
the tax of five fixths or fometimes, even of twenty-nine thirtieths. . A
table of taxable property, by which the Supreme Court regulates the tax-
ation, exhibits a proportion of lands of the loweft clafs which muft appear
far too great, to any perfon that has an acquaintance with the -country,
'The whole amount of taxable property was eftimated, in the year 1 796, at
the fum of five millions feven hundred and twenty thoufand four hundred
and eighty dollars.

Thefe taxes have, for thefe feveral years, "been t>ut twenty-three thou-
fand dollars, regularly paid. The annual expenditure of the government
amounts nearly to fifty thoufand dollars. But, there is a tax upon writ-
ten deeds, or, in other words, a {lamp-tax, that yields from fix to eight
thoufand dollars a year. The State formerly lent three hundred and fifty
thoufand dollars to the Union, for which it receives interest at the rate of
four per cent. And it has, likewife, fome other fources of income, of
which I could not obtain any dHHnct account. But, its income is, alto-
gether, equal to its expenditure. The taxes impofed .by the Supreme
Court, are fixed in proportion to the neceffities of the prefent year, and
the economy of former ones. There are a number of banks in Connec-
ticut.

The trade of Connecticut is, as I mentioned in fpeaking of New Lon-
don, confined to the exportation of the furplus produce of the lands, to
the Weft India Ifles, or to the other States of the Union. Cattle and
mules from thofe parts of the State of New York, which are contiguous
to Albany, are included in this exportation. New York is the emporium
of almoft all the trade of Connecticut, of which the mips are wont often
either to take in their cargoes or at leaft to complete thenr, there, and to
bring their returning cargoes thither.

The whole exports from Connecticut, were, in the year 1.791* of the
value of feven hundred and ten thoufand three hundred and fifty-two
dollars ; in 1792, eight hundred and feventy-nine thoufand feven hun-
dred and fifty- two dollars ; in 1 793, feven hundred and feventy thoufand
two hundred and fifty-four dollars; in J7Q4, feven hundred and twelve

thoufand

BY THB D17KE DE LA ROCHEFOtTCAULT LTANCOVKT, 53$

thoufand feven hundred and fixty-four dollars ; in 1795, eight hundred
and nineteen thoufand four hundred and fixty-five dollars.

The tonnage of the fhips belonging to Connecticut, whether engaged
in the foreign or the coafting- trade, amounts, in all, to thirty-five thou-
fand tons.

Connecticut is, after Rhode Ifland and Delaware, the fmallefr. State in
the Union ; but, in proportion to its extent, the moft populous. There
are about one and fifty perfons to every fquare mile. As the lands are
all occupied and in cultivation, more perfons emigrate out of Connecti-
cut to the newly acquired lands, than from any other State in the Union.
This will be more particularly evinced from the following ftatement of
fads.

In the year 1756, the whole population of Connecticut, was one hun-
dred and twenty-nine thoufand and twenty-four fouls; in 1774, one
hundred and ninety-feven thoufand eight hundred and fifty-fix fouls ; in
1782, two hundred and nineteen thoufand one hundred and fifty fouls;
in 1791, two hundred and thirty-feven thoufand nine hundred and forty-
fix fouls. Thus, in the courfe of the firfi eighteen years, the average in^
creafe of the population, was three thoufand eight hundred and twenty
fouls annually ; for the next eight years, it was but two thoufand fix hun-
dred and fixty-one fouls a year ; during each of the lafl nine years taken-
at an average, it has not been more than two thoufand and eighty- fix
fouls. Celibacy is not now more common than formerly : and it was
never frequent in Connecticut. Young people marry early : and their
marriages are very fruitful, augmenting the population very rapidly. It
may, therefore, be calculated that two-thirds of the numbers which are
continually added to the former population^ leave the country, and go to
fettle in the newly occupied territories. Many of the landholders in
Connecticut purchafe lands, at a very low price in the State of Vermbnt.
Thefc they retain for themfelves till their children grow up ; and then
beftow them upon fome of the young folks, as their patrimony. Mofl of
thofc who emigrate out of Connecticut, leave it, only becaufe they can-
not find in it, a place for comfortable and advantageous fettlement.

The

'TRAVELS "IN -NORTH AMERICA,

Tire inhabitants of Connecticut, are, almofl univerfally, of Engtim de-
fcent, and are a fober, active, induftrious people. Their diflinguifhing
qualities are nearly the fame, as .thofe of the other inhabitants of New
England. They are faid to be very litigious. And there are, indeed, few
difputes, even of the moft trivial nature, among them, that can be termi-
nated elfewhere than before a court of juftice. No {late, perhaps no
equal number of people in the univerfe, have fuch a multitude of law-
fuits. There is, no where elie, fuch a mob of advocates, as here. Is it
i the multiplicity of law-fuits that has engendered the lawyers ? Or do
not the lawyers rather give birth to the excefs of law-fuits ? Be this as it
may ; thefe lawyers have, at prefent, very great influence among the peo-
ple of this ftate, efpecially in political matters. It is even faid to be
greater than that of the miniflers, who, 'in confequence of their mutual
wranglings, and their fierce intolerance, have loft much of the high in-
fluence which they once poflefled.

The people of Connecticut are rigid and zealous in the difcharge of their
religious duties. But, I have been told, that fmcerc devotion, founded
upon thorough conviction, is rare among them. Their manners are ftrongly
republican. They axe, all, in eaiy circumflances; few of them, opulent.
Such as do poflefs extraordinary wealth, are very anxious to conceal
their fortunes from the vigilant and invidious jealouiy of their fellow-
citizens.

The prevalent political fentiments are full of attachment to freedom.,
and to the prefent conftitution. The people are rough in their manners ;
yet frank and hofpitable ; though lefs agreeably fo, than the inhabitants
of Maflachufetts, who are, however, certainly not the mofl polifhed peo-
ple in the world*

In the year 1784, 1 had been honoured at Paris, with the freedom of
the town of Newhaven. It was conferred in a very reipcctful letter from
the. mayor and aldermen of the town. J knew not, to whom 1 was
obliged for. this attention. I received it with no particular notice ; little
thinking, at that time, that, in eight years, Newhaven would be the only
place in the world, in which I might confidently expect to be owned as

a citizen.

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 537

a citizen. On my arrival in Newhaven, I thought it my duty to make
my acknowledgments for the' honour I had received. But, it was pro-
bable, that the magiftrates by whom it had been conferred, muft have
forgotten the little tranfaction, as I had never written to them, in anfwer
to their letter. I went, however, to vifit them, as a freeman of the
town. One of them had been for fome years in France, had, ob-
tained a good place, and had alfo been at Liancourt. There, while I
fat at table with a number of guefts, he had exprelTed a defirc to fee the
apartments. Permiffion was readily granted on my part ; and he was
afked into the dining-room, which was very large. But I had no oppor-
tunity to mew him any other attentions than were paid to all thofe who
came, almoft daily, tc? fee my houfe and gardens. This w r orthy man, how-
ever, when he faw r me, in my prefent humble condition, recollected, with
lively gratitude, the civilities he had met with, at my feat, which I, as
was natural, had quite forgotten. In confequence of this, I w r as received
by the magiftrates and principal burgefles of the town, with a warm and
hearty welcome, fuch as men naturally mew towards a perfbn whom
they fee with an agreeable furprize. Mr. HILLHOUSE, member of the
Congrefs, with whom I had occafion to become acquainted in Philadel-
phia, was my conductor to them. He is a worthy, hofpitable .man, of
true republican principles and manners ; as, indeed, are all the people of '
Connecticut. Yet, I cannot help preferring thofe of MafTachufetts, who
with the fame plainnefs, are, however, lefs precifc, and more amiable in
their manners.

FAIRFIELD. NORWALK. STAMFORD.

The State of Connecticut extends only five or fix miles beyond Stam-
ford. This tract is not in fo good a ftate of occupancy and cultivation,
as that through which I had come. The land adjacent to the fea, is in
the fame ftate as that which lies fomewhat farther back. From Penobf-
cot to New York, it is full of rocks. Yet, fome part of the country
through which the road leads, is verdant, covered with rich crops, and
agreeably interesting to the view. A confiderable part of it is covered

3 Z with

538 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

with woods, confifting chiefly of pines, fpruce-fir?, and birches. Thirteen
miles from Newhaven, you crofs the River Stratford in a very good and
fate ferry-boat. At the ferry, the river is about half a mile broad. The
road is uneven, and fo ftony, as to be not at all pleafant to a traveller.
You crofs a number of fmaller ftreams, by palling along tolerably good
bridges. Thefe are navigable, only when fwollen by the flowing tide.
There are two or three fmall veflels which trade from hence to New
York and the neighbouring towns : and at leaft one goes to the Antilles.
I faw one at Neuwied, that had cattle on board. It was bound for the
Weft Indies ; though its tonnage was, indeed, very fmall. All thefe
fmall ports or creeks belong to the diftricl of Fairfield, the fmalleft of
four into which Connecticut is divided. The exports from this diftrict,
amounted, in the year 1791, to fifty thoufand three hundred and fifteen
dollars; in the year 1/92, to fifty-three thoufand three hundred and
feventeen dollars ; in 1/93, to feventy-five thoufand three hundred and
eight dollars ; in 1794, to feventy-fcvcn thoufand four hundred and
twenty-fix dollars; in 1795, to eighty thoufand one hundred and forty-
fix dollars.

Between Fairfield and Stamford are frequent rocks. The inhabitants
are not very numerous. Some villages of a pretty thriving appearance,
are, however, to be feen from the high road. No culture but that of
meadows, no tillage, appears, It is faid that the foil is, in general, fuf-
ficiently fit for bearing corn, but that the nature of the climate fubjects
the crop to a blafting that never fails to fpoil it in its growth. Thefe dif-
advantages airecl the whole territory lying along this part of the coaft.

ENVIRONS OF NEW YORK. PAULUSHOOK.

At the diftance of eight miles from Stamford, the traveller enters the
State of New York. The quality of the land is ftill the fame. From
Newhaven, the road ftill leads along the coafl, in the fame direction with
that which goes to New London. From this place, the coaft of Long
liland, is forty, from Newhaven, it is not more than twenty, miles,
diflance. But, the two coafts advance continually towards one another,

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 53O,

as you approach New York, till, at laft, oppofite to this city, the mores
of Long I/land arc fecn at no more than half a mile's diftance. Ships of
irnall burthen make their way through the Sound, to New York. The
paffage, called Hell Gate, is fo difficult to large mips, that it was at-
tempted but twice in the time of the American war.

A fmall part of the road has been conftruded by perfons who undertook
this bufmefs upon the credit of a toll that is now levied. This part was,
for thefe two laft years, almoft impaiTable, but is now excellent. Thofe
fragments of rock which have been cleared out of the road, are piled up
along its fides, and ferve to prevent any deviation beyond the juft limits
of its breadth. The paflagc to the ifland of New York, is, by King's
Ferry, at the diftance of fourteen miles from that city.

This ifland is feparated from the main-land by a narrow arm of the
North River, which falls into the Sound, and extends in length, between
the Sound and that noble river. It is, here, a mile and a half broad :
And on its oppofite bank, are the rugged rocks of Jerfey. The foil of
the iiland of New York, is a barren fand. Some not very productive
farms lie along the road ; and the ifle is covered with frequent country -
houfes belonging to rich inhabitants of the town of New York. The
nearer you approach to the town, fo much the more handfome and nume-
rous do you fee thofe country-houfes to become. By manure and labori-
ous culture, the fields have been made to yield tolerable crops, and the
gardens, with great difficulty, to produce pulfe and pot-herbs.

I knew, that the epidemical ficknefs was fo far mitigated in New
York, that the communication was again open between this city and
Philadelphia. But, I went to Elizabeth-town, to vifit Mr. RICKETTS ;
not knowing how extremely fearful both he and his wife were, left the
infeclion mould, by any means, be communicated to their children. I,
there, determined not to halt in New York, as my acquaintance^, would,
moft probably, have left the town.

MINERALOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.

Granite is the fpecies of rock moft prevalent along the coaits of Mafia-
chufetts, New Hampmire, and Maine. The appearance of its fragments

.3 Z 2 on

540 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

on the furface, is fufficient to enable any one to judge of the quality of
the foil, even without examining into it, more particularly. Granite is
not, however, the only fort of rock, here, to be difcovered. There is a
great abundance of lime-ftone at Thomaftown, Belfaft, Ducktrap, and
Waldoborough. A fand-ftone is there found in yet greater plenty.
There is ibme flate, of which a part is exceffively hard ; though it be
more commonly black and fcaly, efpecially at the corner of Beatrix-hill.

The lime-ftone in General Knox's quarries at Thomaftown is entirely
cryftallized, and mixed with a glittering fand-ftone. Some beautiful
pieces of tale ace oecafionally found among its layers. It is eafy to be
burnt, and affords very good quick-lime. Farther towards the back-
country of Maine, I found the rocks to be the fame as on the coaft. Such
at leaft did they appear, wherever the ground was opened to any depth.
On the furface, there was a pure gravel, or, more commonly, a clay, a
ftiffloam, or a rich vegetable earth. The cataract of Androfcoaggin,
near the mouth of Kennebeck River, exhibits ftrata of a hard fchiftus.
In Portland there is an intermixture of granite with fand-ftone and other
glittering ftones. From the heights near Portland, are feen various white
rocks, the higheft in New England. They are fituate in New Hamp-
fliire. They lie, in an aiTemblage together, behind the three foremoil
ranges which ftretch from north-eaft to fouth-weft. They divide Mer*-
rimack from Connecticut. They are fecn from a great diftance eaft>
ward. They are more than feventy miles diftant from Portfmouth.
They are faid to confift of granite ; but I did not fee them near enough
to be able to determine. Of this fort are the mountains of New Hamp-
fhire in general. On the way from Salem, are large rocks of a ycllowifli
red colour, which have, at firft fight, the appearance of jafper, but are*
in facl, only a very hard ochre. In the vicinity of Bofton, on the fea-
fliore, and in the fields behind the town, are a great variety of ferpentines,
feldfpars, and different other Hones, fome of which are exceedingly beau-
tiful. Beyond Milton, a village at the diftance of two miles from Bof
ton, is a tract of ground covered over with pudding-ftones ; and the
brooks exhibit, on their beds water- worn fragments of granite, fchoerl,
and fand-ftone. Strata of granite and fand-ftone are equally to be found

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHKFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 541

in the neighbourhood of Plymouth, in Rhode Ifland, and in the environs
of Providence. In digging for wells near this laft town, there have been
found an afbeftine earth, and an impure lead-ore. Such is the general
character of the ilrata along the coafts of Connecticut, and as far as to
New York. The obfcrvations I made on the terraces of fome places
contiguous to Mohawk's River, and near German Flats, are ftill more
applicable to that adjacent to Connecticut River. Sometimes only one,
but more commonly both banks of the river confift of flat ground, which
is, ever, more or lefs, under water, and of which the foil is a' clay. At
fome diitance backward, this level ground is bounded by a perpendicular
elevation of the furface, to the height of from twenty-five to forty feet.
Above this, is another level plain, the foil of which, is naturally dry.
This plain is bounded by another abrupt elevation of the furface, which
has the appearance of having been executed by art in fome period of very
remote antiquity. Beyond it, is another fimilar work, apparently ftill
more ancient. There are, in fome places, four alternations of thefe
plains and' perpendicular rifes, one behind another, which afcend with the
regularity, of terraces in a garden, to the fummits of the hills. Where
the hills defccnd to the very brink of the river, thefe terraced plains are
to be ieen, only one fide. More commonly, however, they appear on
both ildes : And, in. this- cafe, the correfponding terraces, on the oppofite
fides, are of the fame level. Contemplating thefe wonderful appear-
ances, one is naturally led to conjecture, that thefe heights were once the-
immediate banks of the river, which in defccnding to its prefent channel
gradually formed the fucccffiye flats , and perpendicular elevations that
we now fee. This conjecture is farther confirmed by the facl, that
thcfc heights are corapofed of a very white argillaceous fchiftus, which
crumbles into a powder, in the air, fuch as proves to be a fat earth, is
excellent for vegetation, and is of the fame fort, as the foil of thefe inter-
jacent flats. In opening the foil of thefe flats, people often find branches
of trees, in a more or le-fs perfect ftate of prefervation. Thefe, in the
rnoifl ftate in which they are found, may be moulded with the fingers,
like clay ; but, when dry, they refume the compact, fibrous texture of

wood.

542 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

\vood. I have not heard that whole trees have been found in this fitua-
tion : buC it is probable, that, in digging deeper, fuch might be met
with.

I have found, here, no remains of marine animals. The ftones in the
river exhibit no petrifactions of animals, at leaft, none that I could fee.
In the interior country are found flates of various forms, colours, and
qualities.

TREES.

The different trees in the province of Maine are nearly the fame as
thofe in the province of Canada. Some, fuch as the thuya occidentalis,
are not found farther fouthward. The filver fir grows in great plenty, in
the neighbourhood of North Yarmouth. The red oak, the white oak,
and another fort of oak that grows not above the height of fifteen feet,
\vith no confiderable thicknefs, and is ufed only for fewel, are to be found
there. The black fir, the Weymouth pine, the red cedar, the common
fir, the red maple, the Pennfylvanian am, the black birch, and the dwarf
birch are, there, common. Thefe trees are, alfo, found in MaiTachufctts,
New Hampmire, and Connecticut. The faiTafras is very common in the
laft mentioned ftate ; but, rare in the province of Maine. The balm-
poplar I have not feeii northward of New Hamplhire.

FOWLS.

Here is a wonderful diverfity of fmall fowls, particularly in regard to
colour. I was in Maine, juft about the time when the wood-pigeons go
fouthward. They are engaged for the fpacc of a week in taking their
departure. An innumerable multitude of thefe fow r ls, is then feen to
darken the air, to hang upon the trees, and to light on the fields. In
fpring and harvefr., they are killed in thoufands, throughout all the
United States.

SQUIRRELS,

Squirrels abound throughout all America ; but, in New England, Hill
more than any where elfe. They are of different forts, and various co-
lours

HY THli DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LlANCGUIvT, 543

lours. The final! grey fquirrel is diftinguilhed from the flying iuuirrej.
Some of the Americans cat their

ELIZABETH-TOWN.

As I could fpend but little time here, and was unlucky in corning un-
fcafonably to the houfe of Mr. and Mrs. Ricketts, my information rela-
tive to this town, is, therefore, but inconfiderable. The territory of this
townfliip was purchafcd from the Indians in the year lCO-4, and was firft
occupied by emigrants from Long Ifland. At prefent, the town confifts
of about two hundred well-built houfes, two handfome churches, of
which one belongs to the Epifcopal perfuafion, the other to the Prefby-
terians, a decent council- houfe, and an academy. At the diftance of a
mile weft ward from the town, is the courfe of PafTaik River, which
pafles to the north of Staten Ifland, and falls into the bay of New York
This convenience of fituation for water-carriage, renders Elizabeth -town
a confiderable mart for thofe produces of the back lands of New Jerfey,
which are imported into New York. At the houfe of Mr. Ricketts, I
met with Mrs. KEAN, whom I had been often in company with, at Phi-
ladelphia, on the preceding winter, and from whom I had experienced
great hofpitality. She now wore a mourning- drefs, having loft her huf-
band, who died, foon after my departure from Philadelphia, and who was
one of the moft refpectable men in all America. Mr. Ricketts, a gentle-
man of Englifii dcfcent ; long ferved as an officer in the Englifh army ;
is frank and ooen in his manners ; and bears the character of being a tme
JLnglifti country -gentleman. He poffeiTes, likewife, a rich plantation in
Jamaica, from which he brings all his negroes ; the laws of Jerfey ftill
permitting flavery. In the northern American States, fuch fervitude is
far from being fo fevere as in the iflands. But, manners, not laws, pro-
duce the only difference. There is no law to hinder an inhabitant of
Jerfey from beating, and other wife cruelly uilng, his negro-flave. Should
he mutilate his {lave of a limb, or beat an eye out of his head ; the courts
of juftic e may condemn the mafter to a temporary imprifonment, but
have no power either to fet the injured {lave at liberty, or to order him to

54-i TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

be fold to a different matter. It is not, therefore, probable, that even ti
tyrannical mailer can be checked by fueh carelefs regulations. Such a
fituation of things mufl be mocking in any country, but above all, in a
free republican flate. But, the negroes of Mr. liicketts, are, in all re-
fpecls, as well treated, as any labourers who are freemen, cim pofiibly be,
The liberty here allowed of keeping negro-flaves, and the general opi-
nions of the country in favour of ilavcry, have brought into New Jerfey,
a number of French emigrants from St. Dominso, who have fet many

vJ * /

of their negroes at liberty. Thefe families have leit moil of their pro-
perty under the protection of the Englifh ; a eon duel: of which they do
not much boafl. Some of them are eager to diflinguim themfelves by
their principles and behaviour, more than the reft : But, even thofe are
not altogether free from the prejudices of the planter.

During my fhort flay at New York, I could not without great anxiety,
fix my mind on the objects before me ; for I was in earnefl expectation
of letters from Europe, which greatly agitated both my hopes and fears.
In this flatc of mind, I could have made but little progrefs in any en-
quiries into the circumflances of a town of fo great importance, that a
much longer time w^ould have been requifite to enable one to know much
ttbout it. I have fmce had occafion to make a longer vifit to this place :
And I mall, therefore, delay making any remarks concerning it, till I
come to fpeak of that journey. I have feen the leader of that which is
called the Federalifl Party. According to what I have heard of Mr. Jay
from his friends, he himfelf would make as bad a Prefident, as his treaty
makes a fyflem, for the regulation of the intercourfe between America
and Britain. It is affirmed, that he liflened to every piece of new in-
formation, and in the unfolding of his reafons and defjgns, availed him-
felf of every political incident. How far he may follow out this odious
fyflem of conduct, I know not ; that it is, in truth, his fyflem, I have no
doubt.

What I have .heard from Mr. Hamilton himfelf confirms me in my
previous opinion, that he could not but wiih for a better treaty. He is
one of the ablefl men I have hitherto known in America. He pofiefles

a com-

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCIIEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 545

a comprehensive mind, the energy of genius, clearnefs of ideas, a flowing
eloquence, knowledge of all forts, lively fcnfibility, a good character, and
very amiable manners. This praile rather falls fhort of his defert, than
exceeds it.

Mr. KING, a Senator of the United States, and a leader of the party to
which he belongs, is alfo a man highly diftinguifhed for his talents, and
for the worth and amiablenefs of his character. Party- fpirit infecls the
moft refpe&able, as well as the meaneft of men. All that I have re-
marked in New York, and whatever I have learned in other places,
during the laft three months, leads me to fear, that America cannot long
Continue to enjoy its prefent internal tranquillity ; a tranquillity eflen-
tially neceffary to confirm and extend that high profperity which many
other circurnftances feem, at prefent, to confpire to bellow upon thefc
United States.

While I was at New York, I made an excurfion to the beautiful
country-feat of Colonel BURR. The Colonel, in regard to politics, be-
longs to the Oppofition. He is one of the moil amiable men I ever faw.
The yellow-fever has raged for thefe laft three months in New York,
and has cut off a great many lives, yet has been, in the whole, lefs fatal,
here, at this time, than it was, laft year, at Philadelphia. It has con-
fined its ravages to that part of the town, which is adjacent to the har-
bour. Its rage begins to be, for the prefent, fomewhat aiTuaged. But,
medicine does not appear to have, as yet, found out any very fuccefsful
mode of treating this diftemper.

Between Elizabethtown and New York, lies the town o* village of
Newark. It is one of the fmeft villages in America. It confifts of one 1
very long and very broad ftreet, the fides of which are planted thick with
rows of trees, and which is compofed of tfuly handfome houfes. Thefe
are all of brick or wood, and every one of them has, behind it, a neat
garden. Newark is the ufual ftage for the mail-coaches and for travellers
paffing between Philadelphia and New York. There are, of confequence,
a number of good inns in this place. This part of the country is parti-
cularly famous for its cyder ; which is greatly fuperior to that produced

4 A in

546 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

in the other parts of Jerfey ; though even the reft of the Jcrfey -cyder be
preferable to whatever is produced any where elfe in America, even to
the cyder of Virginia, which is reckoned exceedingly good. A fhoe-
maker who manufactures fhoes for exportation, employs, here, between
three hundred and four hundred workmen, almoft one half of the in-
habitants of the town. The number of thefe, has been greatly aug-
mented by the influx of families which the late mailacres have driven
from St. Domingo and the other French iflands. Newark lies on the
river PafTaik. Coming from New York, we are obliged to pafs through
a tracl: of exceedingly fwampy ground. A road \vas, about a year fmce,
conftrucled, for the firft time, through this morafs. It confifb of trees
having their branches cut away, difpofed longitudinally, one befidc an-
other, and llightly covered with earth : This road is, of courfe, ftiil very
difagreeable to the traveller, and very difficult for carriages. Though
on horfeback, I w r as little annoyed by this inconvenience: I was more
difagreeably fenfible of its difadvantageous narrownefs, which is fuch,
that two carriages cannot pafs one another upon it, and that, even two
perfons meeting on horfeback, cannot eafily avoid juftling one another.
This ill-conftrucled, and far too narrow caufeway, has' coft a great ex-
pence. It is three miles long, and has, at each end, a broad wooden
bridge of ftrong and kandfome conftrucliion. The toli exacted at the
bridges is intended to defray the expence of the road.

The way between Newark and Elizabethtown, leads through an
Egreeable country, adorned with good houfes, and farms having a pleaf-
ing afpecl of cultivation. The fields are planted with fruit-trees, par-
ticularly with peach-trees, which are very common in Jerfey. I fell in
with a fox-chafe in my mort journey on this road. It is a common di-
yerfion with the gentlemen of Jcrfey, at leaft in thefe parts ; and here, as
in England, every one joins the chace, who, either has ahorfe of his own,
or can borrow one. I mould almoft have thought, at the firft fight, that
I was in Suffolk : but, both dogs and horfes were of a much more in-
different appearance, than thofe I mould, there, hare feen.

WOOD-

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LJAXCOUKT. 547

WOODBRIDGE.

From Elizabethtown to Woodbridge, a trad: of ten miles, the land is.
in general, in a good ftate of cultivation, but is more commonly laid out
in meadows, and planted with maize, than drefled for wheat. The foil
is light and fandy. When moderately manured, it yields wheat. I faw
fome fields green with wheat of a very good aryi promifmg appearance.
The ravages of the Heman-fly greatly difcourag'e all the farmers in Jer-
fcy from the culture of wheat. Nothing lefs than the prefent high price
could overcome the diflike which, here, exifls towards it, as an article
of crop.

Woodbridge is a long village, many of the houfes of which, lie at good
diftances from one another. It is interfered by a fmall flream, which
foon after joins a greater one, called Arthurkill, that falls into the conti-
guous bay ofAmboy. The road, as you approach Woodbridge, leads,
thrice, acrofs the river Barray, on which lies the fmall village of Bridge-
town. This is one of the moft pleafing little places on the whole way,
on account of the variously cultivated fields lying, around it, its fmall but
very neat houfes, and its many fine orchards.

BRUNSWICK.

Between Woodbridge and Brunfwick, the .land is not fertile. The:
meadows are tracts of rough ground. Many uncultivated fields are to be
fecn, which yield no otner produce than a coarfe grafs. But, even from
the heights over which the road, at times, runs, the traveller has agree-
able profpects of the river Rariton as far as to Amboy, ofAmboy itfelf,
and of Staten Ifland, with the adjacent expanfe of waters. It is a rich
and noble profpect, but one of which the eye foon tires. You approach
the firft houfes in Brunfwick by paiTmg along a handfome wooden bridge
that leads acrofs the river Rariton. It is new, and juft about to be
finifhed ; for a flood, laft year, carried away a former bridge of too
llight conftruction, that had been erected, the year before. Brunfwick is
the principal tow r n of the county of Middlefex, which contains about

4 A 2 fevente.cn

"548 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

feventecn thoufand inhabitants, of whom two thoufand are flares. This*
town contains, at prefent, about two hundred and twenty inhabitants ;
and its population is annually encreafmg. The furrounding territory and.
the river lie exceedingly low. This fmall town is the mart for the pro-
duce of all the adjacent country, and for that of the back-lands to the
great hills, a tracl: of twenty miles in extent. By the river Rariton, it
has a direct intercourfe by water, and a confiderably brifk traffic, with
the town of New York.

PRINCETOWN.

As you approach from Brunfwick, the adjoining territory is, fortwo or
three miles, pretty agreeable. It, then, becomes rough, and of a very in-
different, reddifh foil. The land is covered, and even the road ob-
ftructed, with large mafTes of fchiflus. The way pafTes on, from hill to
hill ; and yet, no interefting profpecl: appears, to compenfate the toil of
fuch a journey. Two or three fmall ftreams are to be crofled, which
have mills upon them. Three miles from Princetown, the land becomes
more level, exhibits a better fhow of cultivation, and is, ia general, more-
agreeable to the eye. The houfes belonging to Princetown are, for the
fpace of a mile, cluttered together, in what is called a town, which may
confift of from feventy to eighty houfes, in all. Almoft all of thefe are
furrounded with beautiful fhrubbery.

Princetown is famous throughout America, as the feat of an excellent
college. Here are from one hundred and twenty to one hundred and
fifty fludents, from all different parts of the United States.

MAIDENHEAD.

Eight miles from Princetown, lies Maidenhead, where I am, at pre-
fent, writing, on this Tuefday, the 8th of November. I chofe this petty
inn, to avoid falling in with the flage- coaches, the pafTengers in which,
naturally engrofs all the accommodation, at the inns at which they
ufually flop, in preference to any folitary rider. I defired to obtain feme
reft. In regard to the inconvenience from the flage- coaches, at any other

inn,

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 54Q

inn, I was very indifferent : but as to my reft, I was not indifferent ; and
in this fmall place I hoped to enjoy it. But the only bed-chamber in the
lioufe happened, when I alighted, to be occupied by a club of the labourers
and other inhabitants of the neighbourhood, aflembled from the distance
of two miles round. Thefe were joined by people drawn together on ac-
count of a horfe-race, which was to be run at the diftance of three miles
from Maidenhead. Thefe people had foon a glafs of grog in their
heads, and began to make a confiderable buftle in the inn, - I was necef-
farily obliged to retire with my table, into a fmall corner by the fire, to
anfwer the queftions which they put to me, and to give them the ufe of
my pen, to fcrawl out their accounts. They were the beft folks in the
world; only, in refpecl: to their writing, a little more of fcholars than
was quite agreeable to me. I muft, however, do them the juftice, to o\vn r
that they did not hinder me from fmoking my fegar.

ARRIVAL AT PHILADELPHIA.

From Maidenhead to Trenton, the land is moderately good. At many
places through which the way runs, it is ftill uncleared. Trenton is the
principal town of the State of New Jerfey. It contains about three
hundred houfes, moft of which are of wood. Thofe of the high-ftreet
are fomewhat better in ftructure than the reft; yet ftill but very mode-
rate in their appearance. Trenton poffelTes all the ufual public buildings
of the capital of a ftate. About a quarter of a mile beyond this town, is
the paffage over the Delaware by a ferry, which, though ten ftage-
coaches daily pafs in it, is fuch, that it would be reckoned a very bad
ferry in Europe. The river is one hundred and fifty fathoms broad.
Here begin thofe rapid defcents in this river, which interrupt its afcend-
ing navigation for all but flat-bottomed veiTels of eight or ten tons bur-
then. On the farther fide of the river, the retrofpecl to Trenton is, in a
confiderable degree, pleafing. The ground between that town and the.
Delaware is fmooth, floping, decorated with the flowers and verdure of a
fine meadow. In the environs of the town, too, are. a number of hand-
fome villas which greatly enrich, the landfcape. Trenton is the head-
town

550 TRAVELS IX NORTH AMERICA,

town of the county of Middleton, which contains about fix thousand
inhabitants, and, among thcfe, between four and five hundred flaves.
This county extends back towards the hills, and there is much of it as
yet uncleared and unoccupied. Soon after eroding the river, the tra-
veller comes to Morrifville. ROBERT MORRIS, proprietor of all the'lands
on which this town is placed, has here a fine country feat. He has e'fla-
blifhcd here a number of forges : there is much iron in the neighbourhood,
and other advantages for the manufacture concur : yet the eftablifhment
has not hitherto proved fuccefsful. The extent of his fpeculations fome-
what difordered his affairs. Withdrawing, in confequence of this, from
a part of that immenfe multiplicity of bufmefs in which he was formerly
engaged ; he will now be able to attend to the collecting of the taxes
with an increafed vigilance, which can hardly fail to make them produc-
tive : for no man can bring more of intelligence, activity, and zeal, than
Robert Morris, to the care of all that regards the public good, as he fuf-
ficiently evinced in the courfe of the Revolution.

Having croiTed the Delaw-are, the traveller is within the limits of
the province of Pennfylvania, and at the diftance of four and thirty
miles from the city of Philadelphia. The road leading along the
river, fometimes clofe to its banks, fometimes receding more or lefs from
it> pafles through the beautiful villages of Briftol and Frankfort. The
land does not feem to be very good; yet, is not worfe than fome other
lands that are under culture, in Pennfylvania. The road is broad, and
in a good Hate of repair. No one of the other fhites pays ib much at-
tention as Perifiiylvaftia, to its roads and 'bridges. A number of good
houfes are feen from the highwa^. The nearer you approach to Phila-
delphia ; fo much the more remarkably does every thing alTume the ap-
pearance natural to the vicinity of a great town.

Paffing Kenfmgton, you enter that capital of Pennfylvania, and, in
truth, of all America, where almoft all their great trading mips, are built.

My arrival in Philadelphia, nay, in truth, even the fight of its fteeplc,
excited in my mind, fomewhat of that delight which one feels, upon re-
turning, after long abfence, .to one's own home. It was here I firft

landed

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCIJEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 551

landed from Europe ; here have I lived for the greater part of the time,
I have been in America ; here are my moil intimate acquaintance, who,
though but new, are the oldeft I have in this part of the world. Among
them are the refpeclable family of CHEW, by which I have been- ever
received with all the kindnefs due to a brother.

I thus terminated a journey of feven months continuance, on which
I cannot reflect without feeling pleafure ; and in the courfe of which I
found few things but fuch as I have had occasion to mark with approba-
tion ; though the fatigues which I now feel, makes it ncceiTary for aie
to take fome time for refreshment and repofe.

JOURNEY

554 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

A I/THOUGH exceedingly defirous to accomplish my journey into
-* ^ the Southern States, before the coming on of the exceffive heats ; I
was, however, obliged to delay my departure from Philadelphia, till the
end of the month of March. As the dired: intercourfe of trade between
Charleftown and Philadelphia, is interrupted, during the winter ; I could
not fooner obtain a pafTage to Charleftown. On Thurfday, the 24th of
March, I took Shipping for Carolina on board a veffel of two hundred
and fifty tons burthen, that fails conftantly, between Philadelphia and
Charleftown. It is intended to ferve partly as a packet-boat ; and the
cabin is fitted up for the reception of a dozen pafTengers. But, my fel-
low paflengers and I were twenty-five in number, not to fpeak of four
negroes who were likewife on board ; and we were crowded together, in
the moft difagreeable manner imaginable. The owner of the veffel was
to receive twenty-five times twenty-five piaftres for our paiTage ; the
captain was to receive twenty-five times twenty piaftres for our board
during the courfe of it. It was, therefore, reafonable for us to expert,
that we were not to be packed together, like ib many bales of goods ;
and that they would certainly not receive into the veffel, ten more than
the ftipulated number of paflengers. Though we had, for two days,
nothing but calms and contrary winds ; the whole pafiage w T as, however,
only of fix days duration. Nothing of confequence occurred to our ob-
fervation, in the courfe of it. We met with not more than four fhips^
as we failed on.

One of my fellow paiTengers was Mr. ELL WORTH, of Connecticut, re-
cently

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 553

ccntly appointed Chief Juftice of the United States. All the Americans
who were with us, and they were almoft all young people, (hewed him
no more regard than if he had been one of the negroes ; though he be,
next after the Prefident, the firft perfon in the United States, or perhaps,
indeed, the very firft. Difrefpe6t to their feniors and to perfons in pub-
lic office, Teems to be ftrongly affected among the Americans ; fuch at
leaft is the humour of the rude and ill-bred among them. This,, Turely,
proceeds from miftaken notions of liberty : for, if ever the public office-
bearers have a right to general refped ; it mull be, above all, in thofe
free governments, in which they hold their authorities in confequence of
the election of the people. It is even aftoniihing, to fee, how difrefpecl:-
fully the people carry themfelves, in regard to the courts of juftice. They
appear at the bar, with their hats on their heads, talk, make a noife,
fmoke their pipes, and cry out againft the fentcnces pronounced. This
laft piece of conduct is univerfal : and there are, perhaps, fome petty in-
ftances of injuftice in the courts, which make it to be not without its
ufe. However, this deficiency in refpecl: to the ftate officers who difcharge
the public functions, and adminiftcr juftice one of the greateft bleffings
of focial life, is actually feditious, and is utterly incompatible with the
idea of a people living under a {table government.

We had five or fix Frenchmen from St. Domingo, on board. Two
of them could not divert their minds from melancholy reflection upon
the lofs of their property. They were, however, gentle, courteous,'and
agreeable companions. I pafled moft of my time, in endeavouring to
obtain fome previous knowledge of the country which 1 was about to
traverfe. In this, I was agreeably aided by the converfation of Mr.
PKINGLE, Attorney- general of South Carolina. He was returning from
appearing as defender for a French privateer, in a caufe before the fu~
preme court in Philadelphia. \Ve fmoked our tobacco very often to-
gether, on the deck, in the cabin, and in the fmall after-cabin. I was
allonifhed at the careleflnefs of the perfons fmoking their fegars. .But,
my aftonimmcnt became infinitely greater, when, on the day after our

4 B arrival,

*i-54 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

arrival, I wifhed to take my baggage from on board, and faw two hun-
dred tons of gunpowder brought out of the fhip, in fuch a manner, that
there was fomc of it fcattered about in the fhip. That gunpowder had
been fuffered to lie under our table over which we fmoked our fegars,
and while the paflage into the apartment below, was ufually left open.

At the mouth of Charleftown River, is a fand-bank, extending from
one more to the other. It is compofed of pretty hard fand, on which a
Ihip may eafily ftrikc, but has four openings, by which veiTels are navi-
gated acrofs it. Of thefe-the deepeft has fourteen feet of Avater when
the tide is flowing, and twelve feet of water when it has ebbed. At
fpring-tides it is covered with water to the depth of twenty feet. This
fand bank is never paffed in the night. To prevent vellels from the dan-
ger of mipwreck, which would othcrwife be, in this place, very great,
both buoys in the water, and fuitable marks on land, have been carefully
provided. Thefe are exceedingly necelfary ; for though the fea was
calm, and the water clear, we mould not have diftinguifhed the proper
place, if it had not been particularly indicated to us. Ships can anchor
with fafety on good anchorage ground, immediately before the fand bank.
But this they do not venture, unlefs the w r ind be faint, and the billows
calm. After pafling the fand bank, iliips find good ground for anchorage,
all the way up to Charleftown. The bcft anchorage ground is in the im-
mediate vicinity of the town.

Charleftown lies twelve miles from the fand bank, at the conflux of
the rivers Cooper and Amley. A Imall wooden fort on Fox Ifland, the
remains of the old fort Johnfon, ferves but for a very imperfect defence
to guard the harbour. The erection of another fort has been projected,,
which is to ftand on Sullivan Ifland, and of which the range of the guns
will crofs that of thofe in Fort Johnfon. The government, to which the
ifle belongs, gave permiflion, four years fmce, for perfons to build upon
it, on condition that they ihould hold themfelves ready to remove, when-
ever it might require. This ifle is reckoned to be very healthy. The
more opulent inhabitants of the town, therefore, have houfes here, to

which

Y THE DITKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOUllT. 55v F -

which they refort in the fummcr heats, that they may breathe a purer
and cooler air, which is very folicitoufly defired by the inhabitants of the
rice grounds contiguous to the town. It is cafy to forefee that the people
who now refort hither in fuch numbers, will be difpofed to thwart the
government, when it mall refolve, for the fecurity of the harbour, to re*
new thofe fortifications which occafioned the lofs of a great many lives
by the Englifh, when they fcized this town in the year 1780. The go-
vernment of the United States are exceedingly defirous to put this iilc
into a fufficient condition of permanent defence, fiich as might give full
fecurity to one of the moft important harbours they poffefs. The general
government willies the confutation to be in this inftance obeyed, becaufe
the conftitution confers upon it the power of this harbour : But the ftate of
South Carolina, which would thus lofe the command of the harbour,
frrongly oppofes the defign.

Charleilown w^as, in the time of the Englifh, furrounded w j ith fortifi-
cations. Of thofe only three or four batteries, part good, part bad, now
remain. A French engineer has lately raifed another at a great expence,
but, as is too commonly the cafe with things undertaken in America,
this fort is very injudicioufly conftrucled. Towards that fide which is
parallel with the river, the range of its guns cannot hinder the accefs of
mips into the road. In that direction, too, its left fide extends too far,
fo that the cannon cannot be levelled at any other objecl; than the houfes
of the town. The battery is of wood, but there has not been enough of
wood ufed in its conftru&ion. The engineer excufes himfelf, by com-
plaining that he has not been fufficiently fupplied with money for the
expence. Why then did he undertake a work, which he was not fully
to complete ? For this he can offer no excufe, but that he was defirous
to be employed ; and with fuch an cxcufc it is not cafy to be perfectly
fatisfied.

The town of Charlcftown was founded in the year lG/o. Like all
the reft of South Carolina, it fuffercd much in the war that ended in the
revolution. It was three years in the poiTeffion of the Englifh, who
fpared no rigour of command, no cruelty of punilhment, no fpoliation

4 B2 of

55() THAT ELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

of property, that could ferve to make their memory odious. Many of
the houfes which they deftroyed were of wood ; and, inftead of thofe,
brick houfes have been fmce creeled. Still, however, fome of the more
opulent inhabitants prefer wooden houfes, which they believe to be a
good deal cooler than thofe which are of brick. Everything peculiar to
the buildings of this place is formed to moderate the exceffive heats ;
the windows are open, the doors pafs through both fides of the houfes.
Every endeavour is ufed to refrefh the apartments within with frem air.
Large galleries are formed to fheltcr the upper part of the houfe from
the force of the fun's rays ; and only the cooling north-eaft wind is ad-
mitted to blow through the rooms. In Charleftown perfons vie with one
another, not who mall have the fmeft, but who the cooleft houfe.

The ftreets are not fo well contrived as the houfes, to prevent excef-
five heat from the rays of the fun. Thofe are almoft all narrow. They
are unpaved, on account of the fcarcity of ftones ; and the land with
which they are confequently covered, retains the heat to an intolerable
degree, and fprcads it into the houfes. The fmalleft quantity of wind
raifes and drives about this fand in the ftate of duft that is inexpreffibly
difagreeable ; and any flight fall of rain moiftens it into a puddle. There
are fome foot-paths by the fides of the houfes ; but thefe are narrow, in-
terrupted by the doors of cellars, and, therefore, of very little ufe. Nor
are the ftreets all accommodated with thefe foot-paths. Only two or
three of thefe ftreets are paved, and the ftones upon thefe were brought as
ballaft by fome mips from the northern ftates. It is by fuch means alone
that the ftreets of Charleftown can be paved ; but the expence is fo
great, that the object in view cannot be accomplimed in this way within
any given time.

Houfes, otherwife commodious and well furnilhed, make often but a
poor appearance outwardly. They are indifferently painted, or perhaps
not at all. The doors and railings are in a very bad ftate. The air being
fo thick and fo faline, foOn deftroys the colouring. Although fuch a
number of negroes be here kept, yet the houfes are not preferved fo clean
on the infide as in the northern States,

The

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 557

The expences of the table are nearly the fame here as in Philadelphia.
The expences of equipage are, at kail, as to the number of thofe who
bear them, greater. Here are few families who do not keep a coach or
chaife. The ladies are never feeu to walk on foot. However fhort the
journey, the carriage muft always be yoked. Even the men, too, make
frequent ufe of their carriages. The expence of fervants is likewile con-
fiderable. Thefe, both male and female, are negro and mulatto ilavesj
An inhabitant of Carolina, though not very opulent, rarely has fewer than
twenty of thefc in his {tables, in his kitchen, and attendant upon his ta-
ble. A child has a number of negro children to attend him, and comply
with all Jiis humours ; fo that the little white man learns, even before he
can walk, to tyrannize over the blacks.

The inhabitants of Charlcftown are obliging and hofpitable. They
receive a ftranger with a kindnefs that watches to anticipate his wifhes.
They have fignalized their beneficence and generofity in an extraordinary
manner, tow r ards the unfortunate exiles from the French Weft India ifles.
With a liberality eager, refpeclful, unwearied, they have fupplied them
with money, linens, lodging. 1 am forry to fay, that the unhappy ob-
jects of this kindnefs have not conducted themfelves with due gratitude
and prudence ; but that, with their ufual lightnefs and want of reflec-
tion, they have derived little real advantage from the hofpitality of their
entertainers, and have almoft obliged the people of Charleftown to alter
their conduct towards them ; yet there is ftill a great deal of charitable
contribution towards their relief. The Frenchmen, too, generally rail
againft the Americans, curfe them, and are almoft ready to affault thofe very
perfons from whom they received the moft benevolent relief, and who have,
not without good reafon, withdrawn from them their former kindnefs.

The rich do not here, as in Philadelphia, ftrive to improve their for-
tunes only by fpeculations and ftock-jobbing. Here they are, generally,
merchants, and buiily engaged in actual traffic. The planter fells his
produce, for the greateft price he can obtain, to the merchants by whom
it is to be exported ; and, excepting only that fmall part of his time which
this buiinefs demands, fpends all the reft of it in company and puriuits of

plcafure.

558 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

pleasure. Many of thefe planters live not upon their plantations, but go,
from time to time, to vifit them ; and have overfeers conftantly reiident
upon them. For the greater part of the year, the m after lives in Charles-
town. Even thofc planters who are more commonly refident upon their
eftates leave them from the month of June to November, in order to efcapc
the dangerous fever with which white perfons living in the vicinity of the
rice-grounds are very liable to be infeclcd during that part of the year.

The merchants of Charleftown have carried on a very active trade fmcc
the commencement of the prefent war. They keep a greater number of
fervants than thofc of Philadelphia. From the hour of four in the after-
noon, they rarely think of aught but pleafure and amufement. The man-
ners and habits of fociety are nearly the fame in Charleftown as in other
parts of the American States. Frequent dinners, frequent parties for tea-
drinking. There are two gaming-houfes, and both are conftantly full*
Many of the inhabitants of South Carolina, having been in Europe, have,
of confequence, acquired a greater knowledge of our manners, and a
ftronger partiality to them, than -the people of the Northern States.
Confequently, the European modes of life are here more prevalent. The
women are here more lively than in the north. They take a greater
fhare in the commerce of fociety, without retaining for this the lefs of
modefty and delicate propriety in their behaviour. They are interefting
and agreeable, but perhaps not quite ib handfbme as thofe of PhiladeU
phia. Both men and w-omen foon begin here to lofe the bloom of youth
and to feel the infirmities of age. At the age of thirty a woman appears
old. You often fee women with children at the breaft, who yet have
all the wrinkles and haggard looks of fixty. At the age of fifty, the
hair becomes entirely w r hite.

As to politics, both the State and the people, in general, arc of the Op-
polition. The hatred againft England is almoft univcrfal. Here are few
opulent planters who have not formerly fuffercd much from Englifh hof-
tility. The number of the negroes who w ere ilain, or efcaped from their
mailers, during the war, was not lefs than thirty thoufand, including be-
tween fix and icven hundred whom the Englifn carried away with them

when

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHKFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 551)

when they left this place. All here agree to cherifh an inveterate hatred
acainft England, and by confequcncc to difapprove the treaty. At table
warmly federaliffc -toafts, fuch as, " Permanency to the Union !" " The
Confidence of the States to the Prefident !" are very common.

It lliould iecrn, that any feparation of the Northern from the Southern
States would be very little agreeable to the inhabitants of South Caro-
lina. Setting afide every political confideration, the neceffity of an in-
creafed commercial intercourfe with the north, in order to augment the
(hipping, and enlarge the general wealth of the people of the Southern
States, riiakes it their unquestionable intereft to maintain the Union.
To this neceffity of intereft, the Northern States afcribe the prcfent par-
tiality of the Southern for the federal government. But then they alledge,
that their neighbours will, with the grcateft alacrity, abandon the Union,
as foon as they mall have acquired mfficient ftrength to {land by them-
feives. There are, however, obftaclcs that ftrongly oppofe their riling
fpecdily to that degree of profperity ; and fome of thcfe I mall mention.

Sir WALTER RALEIGH, in the year 1584, and Admiral Co LI GNY, in
the year 1500, attempted, without fuccefs, to eftablifh colonies in Caro-
lina. Inteftine dhTenf;ons and contefts, deftroyed the colonies which
they introduced. The firft effectual fettlement of colonifh, in this ter-
ritory, was in the year l6G2. Charles the Second, after his reftoration,
faeflowed a grant of this region, from the thirty-firft to the thirty-fixth
degree of latitude, upon eight Englifh noblemen. Thofe were the Earl
of Clarendon, the Duke of Albemarle, Lord Craven, Lord Derby, Lord
Afhley, Lord Cartcret, and Sir Carleton. Thefe noblemen em-
ployed the celebrated Locke to frame a constitution for the colony which
they were about to eftabliih. He gave them a conftitution, in which
the people were divided into nobles and commons ; the nobles into
landgraves, caciques, and barons. The colonial territory was divided
into counties. The firft clafs of the nobility were to poilefs each forty-
eight thoufand acres of land ; the fecond clafs twenty-four thoufand
acres ; the third clafs twelve thoufand acres. A fifth part of the whole
lands was to be parcelled out among the plebeians, A parliament, com-

pofed

560 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

pbfed of the nobles or their representatives, in conjunction with the re-
prefentatives of the commons, was to compofe the legislative body, under
the direction of the eight proprietors, who were to form themfelves into
a council, in which the eldeft, with the title of Palfgrave, was to pre-
fide. In the year 1(367, the firft colonifts came out hither from England.
Within a few years after, there followed fome other emigrations from
England, France, Holland, and New York.

This perplexed form of government ; the continual wars among the
Englifh, French, and Indians ; dhTeniions among the colonifts themfelves,
ariiing from the exclufive inftitution of the religion of the Church of
England ; brought the colony, at length, into a ftate of fuch confuilon
and diftrefs, that it was entirely ruined. The proprietors, at the requeft
of the inhabitants, now refigned the government of the colony, but not
the territorial property, to the Crown of England.

In the year 1729, the King of England bought alfo the property of*
the lands, from the feven proprietors, for the fum of twenty-two thoufand
five hundred and ten pounds fterling ; and the province was, by, an act
of the Britifli Parliament, divided into the two parts of North and South
Carolina. Lord Carteret alone chofe to adhere, in refpecl: to his part of
the property, to the conditions upon which the dominion had been for-
merly ceded to the government. The two colonies received a charter of
constitution, which w ? as much more fimilar than their former one to the
Englifh conftitution, and to thofe of the other American colonies.

Since that time, Carolina, and efpecially its fouthern divifion, has be-
come continually more populous, more cultivated, and more commercial.
At the time of the revolution, it was confidered as being, in wealth, and
every other advantage, one of the moft important provinces of America.

By its new conftitution, this ftate is divided into diftricts and parifhes.
The diftrids are nine in number. The conftitution was framed in the
year 1790. The legiilature is compofed, as in the other ftates, in a,
council of feven and thirty members, and a houfe of reprefentatives of
an hundred and twenty-four members. To be qualified for being chofen
a member of the council, a man muft be thirty years of age, muft have

refided

EY THE DU-KE DE LA HOCHEFOUCAUVi 1 L1AXCOUKT. 5(5 1

Tciided tor five years within the boundaries of the ftate, mull poiTcfs a
clear land-eftate of three hundred pounds fterling, or one thoufund five
hundred and forty-three dollars revenue, if a rciident in the diftrict for
-which he is nominated; or of twice that value, if he do not relide within
the diftricl:. The fenators are chofen for the term of four years : but
one-half of their number go out of office at the end of every two years,
To be qualified for election into the houfe of rcprefentath cs, the candi-
date muft be twenty-one years of age, mint have been three years, refidenf
in the ftate, muft have a clear cftate of five hundred acres of land, or ten
negroes, or one hundred and fifty pounds fterling, which is equal to feven
hundred and feventy-two dollars. If not an inhabitant of the diftrid: he
willies to reprefent, his fortune muft then be twice as great. The repre-
fentatives are elected for the fpace of two years, and go out all at once. To
be qualified for the office of governor, a man muft be one and thirty years of
age, muft have been ten years refident within the ftatc, muft poiTefs a for-
tune of one thoufand five hundred pounds fterling, or fevcntcen thoufand
feven hundred and fifteen dollars, free from debt. The Governor is elected
for the term of two years; and, after an interval of four years, from the
time of his going out of office, he may be rechofen. The Governor and
Lieutenant-governor are nominated by the legillative body, and both at
the fame time. The judges are likewife nominated by the fame body ;
and their continuance in office is to be during their good behaviour.
The commifiioners of the revenue, the fecretary of ftatc, the commander
in chief, the iheriffs, are likewife named by the legiilaturc ; and they
hold their offices for the fpacc of four years. All charges againft mem-
bers of the legislature, or members of the ftatc, are to be produced onlv
before the houfe of representatives. The fenate pronounces fcntcricc.
The only punimment, however, that it can inflict, is deprivation of office,
with incapacitation for any future public employment. The courts oj
juftice arc more fevere.

Electors muft be of the age of one and twenty years, moift have been
two years refident in the Itate, and muft be proprietors each of fifty acres
of ground, or of a building-lot in fomc town, free from any burthen of

4 C debt.

TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

debt. If not poiicilcd of this property, the elector muft at leaft have
refided fix months within the electing diftrid, and muft be a contributor
of three {hillings fterling annually to the revenues of the ftate. Altera-
tions in the conftitution can be made only with the confent of two-thirds
of the actual members of the two houfes of legillature ; and even after
this are not to be carried into final accomplifhment without the approba-
tion of an equal majority at the next fubfequent meeting of thefe bodies.
This conftitution confifts of a declaration of rights in ten articles, ex-
tremely fimple, and very intelligible.

At prefent, thofe who are to vote for South Carolina, in the election of
the Prefidcnts of the United States, muft be named by the two houfes.
Thofe inhabitants of Carolina, who hare poffeffions in different diftri<5b>
are at liberty to vote in either of them at their pleafure. Every mem-
ber of the legiilative body has an allowance of feven millings a day fronr
the ftate.

The law of England is received as the common law as well of Carolina
as of almoft all the reft of America. Few inftances occur of departure
from it.

The law for the difpofal of the property of perfons dying inteftate allots
to the widow of a man dying without children one half of his eftate ;
to the widow of him who leaves children to inherit from him, only a
third part of his fortune. The children receive equal mares. In gene-
ral, however, every man is at liberty to difpofe of his property by will,
as he pleafes. He, however, who lives in open concubinage, may not devife
a way from his wife and children above one-fourth of his property, other-
wife his will is liable to be fet afide. Baftards, whofe fathers cannot be
difcovered, are brought up at the public charge. But he whom a young
woman with child, in fornication, names as the father of her infant, is
compelled by law to pay the fum of fixty pounds fterling, or two hundred
and fifty-eight dollars, for the iupport and education of its childhood.

There is in Charleftown an eftablimment for the relief of the poor. It
is called a work-houfe, but no work is done in it. It cofts the State the
ium of five thoufand pounds fterling, or twenty-one thoufand four hun-
dred

BY THE DU&E DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LlAttCOURT.

dred and twenty-eight dollars a year ; and feefris to ferve only as an
afylum for idlencfs. The recovery of debts gives rife to many actions
at law, in this ftate. The procefs is, in thefe cafes, fb tedious, and the
fentence of the courts fo long delayed, that the bufinefs of an advocate
becomes, of courfe, very lucrative. It is faid, that the corruption of the
merifFs, who are eafily bribed, contribute greatly to the prefent delays
of the law. Thefe diforders are the natural confequence of the fmalU
nefs of the fortunes of the inhabitants of Carolina, and of their love
of expence. MelTrs. CHARLES PINCKNEY, EDWARD RUTLEDGF,
PRINGLE, HOLMES, and one or two other advocates, earn, in their offi-
ces, each from three thoufand five hundred to four thoufand five hun-
dred pounds fterling a year, or from eighteen thoufand to twenty-three
thoufand one hundred and forty-one dollars. Eight or ten others earn
from ten thoufand to twelve thoufand dollars, or from two thoufand to
two thoufand five hundred pounds fterling a year. This is a liberal cal-
culation of their gains. Perhaps, they may not always receive the mo'O.
punctual payment.

The criminal law of South Carolina is excefiively fevere. The punifh-
mcnt of hanging and whipping arc infliclcd in many cafes, in which the
governments of Europe ufe lefs feverity. Death is the punimment for
the theft of horfes or mules. This feverity the people of the country en-
deavour to excufe by obferving, that the horfes are commonly left in the
fields, and prefent a very ftrong temptation to theft to the unprincipled
and needy. But, fuch local reafons afford no fatisfaclory excufe for flich
atrocious feverity. Why mould convenience be thus preferred to juftice
and humanity ?

For the theft of horned cattle, the punifhment is only a fine of ten.
pounds fterling, or if the thief be unable to pay the fine, a whipping of
nine and thirty lames. Another criminal law of extreme feverity has been
enacted againft the breaking down of the dyke of the canal that forms
a communication between the rivers Santee and Cooper : death is the
punimment for this crime. For the fame breaking down of the dykes
of two other canals in this ftate, the punimment is only icvcn years im-

4 C 2 prifonment.

5f)4'- TRA-VELS TX NORTH A

prifonment. The importance of the eanal in qucition can never j;:.
a criminal law of fuch barbarity. Nor is the difference between the
utility of the canals here mentioned fufHcient, to account in. a. fatisfaclory
manner for the differences of punifhment...

It is faid, that the feverity of thefe laws is generally mitigated by re-
commendations to Kiercy,. addreffed from the juries to the Governor,
But,, the ncccffity of inch, mitigation is a reproach to the laws; as it
e\;nccs, that theie have not eftablifhed a due relation between crimes
and puiiijhments. There is> befides, reafon for fuppofing, that however.
humane the members of juries, horfe-ftealmg will more ieldom find mercy
than murder. In. a w T eli- governed ftate, the only mode- of acting to-
wards bad laws is, not by compromifes with them, but by reforming
them.

The laws refpecling the negroes arc .derived from an Englim infti-
tutc of the year 1740. A juftice of the peace, with three freemen
ol the neighbourhood, examine into, and decide upon, the crimes of
negroes. No defender is allowed to the poor wretch accufed ; and
his judges have power to "condemn him to whatever mode of death they
ih ail think proper. Simple theft by a negro is puni (lied "with death*
When the crime is not fuch as to deferve capital- punimment, a juftice.
of the peace, with a fingle freeman, may, in this cafe, condemn to what-
ever lighter punimment they mall pleafe to inflicT;. For the murder of
a negro with malicious intent, a white man pays a fine, of three thoufand
lix hundred and eighty dollars. If he have only beaten the negro, without
intention of murder, till his death enfued, the fine is but one thoufand
five hundred dollars. He who maims a negro, puts out his eyes, cuts off his
tongue, or caftrate? him, pays only a fine of four hundred and twenty-
eight dollars. In all thefe cafes, the white man is imprifoned till the fine
be paid. It is eafy to fee, that a white man can, in fuch cafe, feldom be
conviclcd ; as negroes are incapable by law of giving evidence ; and no
white man ^vill readily offer his teftimony in favour of a black, againft
a perfon of his own colour. A negro flaying a white man, in the de-
fence of his mailer, is pardoned. But, if he do the fame thing, or even

but

BY THE DVKE D LA HOCHEFOUCAULT L1ANCOURT. 5(35

but wound a white man, in the defence of his own life, he will even-
tually be put.to death. A more diligent examination of tliefe laws might'
difcover many other odious things in them.

The moft enlightened people in Carolina fee the neccfiity of an altera-
tion of thefe laws ; and it is faid, that the next meeting of a new Icgifla--
ture will take up this matter. I am afraid, that any. reform will not be
fueh as it ought to be. It fhould feem, that thofe who mention this
fubjecl- are fbrongly imprefFed with the idea of the ncceiiity of the mea-
iure.

I have vifitcd the prifons of Charlefton; which, it is alTerted, are the
beft in the State of South Carolina ; they form one fmgle building, -which
is feveral (lories- high. . The rooms are pretty fpacious and airy, but few
in number. Debtors arc in a feparate room. Felons, either imprifoned
on fufpicion orconvicted, are confined with the police-prifoners, and all
are treated on the fame footing. They are "all in irons ; a" dreadful treat-
ment, but which is the neceiTary confequence of the imallnefS of the
prifon, and of the facility of plotting mutinies. The prifoners are per-
mitted 'only to walk about in their room ; the prifon having no court,
where they might take exercife. The jailor is allowed one ihilling a-day
for the board of each prifbner, for which money he gives him a pound of
bread every day, and meat three times- a week.

Criminal offences are very numerous in Carolina, and their number is
faid rather to increafe every year, than to decreafe. Thirty-four pri-
foners were to be tried laft feffion in the diftricl: of Charlelton only,
which in 1/91 contained twenty-eight thoufand three hundred and
fifty-one inhabitants, and its prefcnt population comprises from thirty-
two to thirty-three thoufand fouls. The negroes have their pecu-
liar courts, and diftinel prifons, whither 'they are fent by fuch matters,
as chufe not to infticl any punifhment themfelves, to receive a certain
number of lames. The negroes in the diftricl: of Charlefton amount to
fifty-five thoufand; their total number in the State of South Carolina is
eitimated at one hiindrcd andt\venty thoufand. At the time of the laft
computation in I/QQ, the flate contained one hundred and feven thou-
fand

566 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

fand one hundred Haves, and one hundred and forty-one thoufand nine
hundred and feventy-nine white people. Lawyers and judges have in-
formed me, that the white inhabitants of Carolina commit more crimi-
nal offences, in proportion to their number, than the negroes. Some
matters may perhaps, from avaricious motives, fhelter their flaves from
punimment, as they receive only one hundred and twenty eight dollars
for an executed Have ; but this can only take place in regard to crimes
perpetrated in the midft of plantations. Few people, aflaulted, robbed
or injured by the negroes, would refrain from profecuting them, merely
to fave their matters the lofs of one hundred and twenty-eight dollars.
The refult of this comparifon is, therefore, clearly in favour of men, for
\vhom the flavery and contempt, in which they live, would powerfully
plead, if it were otherwife.

The military regulations, which until 1/Q-i were extremely incom-
plete, were in that year rendered more perfect. They divide the whole
ftate into two parts, one of which comprehends five brigades ; and the
other, four. The two majors-general, who command the two diviiions,
and the nine brigadiers, under whofe orders are the, different brigades, as
well as the adjutant-general, are appointed by the legiflature. Each
brigade is divided by the commanding officers into as many regiments as
the population will admit. The officers are nominated by the regi-
ments, battalions, and companies, to which they belong ; but they are
promoted in the order of their fervice.

Every male inhabitant, as foon as he has attained the eighteenth year
of his age, is appriied by a non-commimoned officer, in the name of the
captain of the dittricl:, that he belongs to the militia. This notice, which
is given before witnciTcs, is the only formality obfervcd in this cafe. The
companies aflcmble one day every month, and the regiments or batta-
lions two days a year, to go through the exercife. Abfcntecs, whether
officers or foldiers, who have no lawful pleas to offer, are punifhed by a
fine, proportionate to their rank, or imprifoned, if they cannot raife the
fine. In cafe of a difobedience of orders, heavier penalties are inflicted.
Officers, in caft: of mifconducl, are tried at the inttance of the Gover-
nor,

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCIIEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 567

nor, by a court of enquiry, confifting at Icaft of three members, one of
whom muft hold the fame commiffion as the offender, who, if he chufe,
may demand a court-martial.

All white apprentices or fervants muft be armed and equipped by their
matters, who are refponfible for them to the courts-martial. For every
fault they commit, in regard to the military fervice, they are obliged to
lerve their mailers a fortnight beyond their time.

The brigadiers are at the fame time mfpectors of their divifions, for
which they receive two hundred and fifteen dollars, in addition to the
pay attached to their rank. The commanders of battalions are bound,
on the firft notice of difturbanccs having broken out in the province, to
aiTemble their corps, and immediately report to their fuperiors the rca-
fons, why they have done fo. In cafe of danger of an attack, or a con-
fiderable revolt, the military are obliged to fire three mufkct-fhots as a
flgnal, which is repeated by all who hear it, and upon which every officer
muft aflemble his men at the appointed rendezvous. The Governor is
invefted with the right of afTembling the troops on all occafions. If they
are obliged to march beyond their ufual places of rendezvous, they re-
ceive the fame pay as regular troops, and the fourth part of each com-
pany remain armed in the diftricl, for the patroling fervice. The foldicps
are allowed to find able fubftitutes, who may march in their ftead, but
no one can be exempted from the patroling fervice. In cafe of an in-
iurrection, the officers poiTefs a difcretionary power of making the bcft
ufe of arms, ammunition, and veffels, wherever they find them. The
Governor, or in his abfence the Lieutenant- Governor, has the right of
mitigating or annulling the fentence of a court-martial. The fines are
applied to the purchafe of arms for the ufe of the companies, in which
they happen to be levied.

Thefe are the chief articles of war. General Pinckney, brigadier and
mfpeftor of the firft divifion, is an officer of great merit; he devotes all
his time and attention to the fervice, and derives much additional autho-
rity from the confidence, and refpeft, which he univerfally enjoys. The
regulations for the exercife are diftincl; and good ; but the militia are, upon

the

568 TlUv'ELS IN tfORTH AMERICA,

the whole, 1 badly armed, and Tome of them have no arms at all. The
ftat'e has few or no cannon, no powder magazine, and no balls. A law
was enacted in 1795,' ordering two thoufand mufkets, thirty-fix cannons,
five hundred brace 'of piftols, five hundred f words, and twenty thoufand
pound's <3f gu'n-pov\de.r, to be" provided. Thcie fmall ftores, which are
bought by coftimathd'of the -Governor, will -not be completed for fome
years. This abfolute negkcl of all means of defence. is common through-
out America ; and if -you mention it to men of property, moil of them
will return' 'hi anfv, cr"-' America was iliil , more deititute of every thing
at'*t!\e cortiiiien'ccmerit i<of the Revolution." This aiifwer is pkafmg
enough, as it befpeaks ''the lame energy; .which America difplayed in the
.w&r of the revolution; but to provide proper means of defence is by no
.means incoirfiilent with energy. ,

The tax6'?n $outh Carolina' are affdTcd pn. lands, poffeflions in the
towns, arid'ihlb'nied capitals, employed -in 'trade,- bdnks, or otherwife. Free
negroes, as Wefl as flavcs, pay a capitation, in regard to which all men or
women of colour are efteemed negroes.

The land is divided by. the law into nine claffes, from the rice-fwamps,
which arc watered by the flood, to the foil which, in the general opinion,
admits of no cultivation. According to this gradation the land is rated
from twenty-fix dollars down to twenty cents the acre, and pays one-
half per cent. The poilcffions in the towns, and monicd capitals, are af-
fefled in the fa me proportion. Free negroes from fixtecn to fifty years of
age pay a poll-tax of two dollars each, and ilaves of whatever age or fex
one dollar.. Carriages kept for amufement pay thrce-tbvirths of a dollar
for each wheel.

The tax-gatherers are appointed by the legiilatuTG, and continue -in
place, until they obtain their difmifllil. Thcfe officers of.thcjftatc are
bound, in genera!,^ to find fecurity for the furrr of four thoufand two hun-
dred and eighty dollars, and thofe of Charlcfton for , forty-two thoufand
eight hundred dollars. On a notice from the tax-gatherers, all the inha-
bitants muft make a declaration upon oath of their taxable property in
land, town-ihares, flavcs, and carriages. A falfe declaration fubjecls to a

penalty

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

penalty of five times the amount of the fum concealed, and in cafe of* a
declaration being refufed, the collectors make out an eftimatc, and the
defaulter pays double his mare of taxes. In cafe of any inhabitant think-
ing himfelf aggrieved by the affeflbrs, he is bound to declare his whole
property, and is believed. Thefe afTelTmcnts are, however, generally
fpeaking, very moderate, as on the largeft property they fcarccly amount
to five hundred dollars.

The tax-gatherers tranfmit to the treafurers of the ftate (one of whom
is appointed for Upper Carolina and another for Lower Carolina) the
lifts of the inhabitants then taxed, as well as of thofe who have refufed
to make their declaration, and a general table of the amount of the taxes.
Thcfe lifts and tables are ftuck up in the chief places of the diftricl, and
every perfon, who pays not his taxes according to the lifts within ten days
after their publication, may be profecuted and confined. Taxes muft be
paid in preference to all other debts. The inhabitants may chufe the
parim, where they intend to pay. The collectors are in general allowed
five per cent on the amount of their receipts, but in Charlefton only one
and half per cent.

Thefe taxes are adequate to the expenditure of the ftate, which in the
year 17Q7 amounted to one hundred and twenty thoufand three hun-
dred and eighty-eight dollars. But delays, inconveniencies, and con-
liderable deficiencies, frequently arife from the circumftance, that the
collectors and aileftbrs are the fame perfbns, that no checks upon them
are kept, and that the inhabitants have the right of paying their taxes
in which parim they chuie.

The roads in South Carolina are kept in repair by the negroes, who
are obliged conftantly to work at the roads, which border upon the
plantations to which they belong. White people, who have no Have,
muft do the work themfelves. The ftate pays the expence for all public
buildings ; of confequence there exift no county-rates. The poor are
fupported by a tax on flavcs, and on wiiite people who have none.
Town-rates arc levied on the fame principle ; in Charlefton they
amount to fix thoufand four hundred and thirty dollars. This town

4 D raifes

570 TRAVELS IN XOF.TH- AMERICA,

raifes nearly two thoufand dollars a year by licences for felling wine and
brandy.

The public debt of South Carolina is of two forts. One part of it was
contracted at the time of the revolutionary w r ar, to meet the expence caufcd
by it, and which the Union has taken upon itfelf, under the name of the
general expence : the amount of this debt is from one million and one hun-
dred thoufand to one million and two hundred thoufand dollars. The
Union pays to the ftate feven per cent on this debt, until it be dif-
charged, and this interelt it pays again to its creditors, and acts, there-
fore, merely as a depoiitary or truftee. But in cafe of the ftate paying
any part of this debt, the Union remains neverthelefs its debtor, for in-
ita'nce, if the ftate mould fell land, to pay fuch debt. It claims at pre-
ferit the fum of one hundred thoufand dollars for forts, creeled on the
Indian frontiers, and other expcnces, relative to thefe works of defence.
If this claim mould be admitted, as probably it will, the money will be
expended for the fame purpofe, but without leiTening the debt of the
Union; the intereft or capital paid by it will ferve to eafe the burthen
of the taxes, or be employed for fome other ufeful purpofe in the ftate.
The reft of the public debt is that, which, although for the major part
contracted during the war and on its account, has not been acknow-
ledged by the Union as a -general debt, and remains therefore at the
charge of the ftate. Its amount was from two hundred and fifteen to
two hundred and twenty-five thoufand dollars, but it has been paid off to
the fum of one hundred and ten or twelve thoufand dollars. A tax of a
quarter of a dollar on every negro, and fome other impofts on diftillerics,
tobacco, &c. are appropriated to the payment of this debt, ten per cent
being yearly paid of the capital. The whole debt will be difcharged in
ten or twelve years, and thefe taxes ceafe accordingly. The fum which
yet remains due originates merely from a frigate, and was contracted un-
der the following circumftances. , r f^^ 3 -,

In 1//3 or 1779> Commodore GILLON, of Carolina, being eommif-
iToned by South Carolina to procure a frigate, propofed to the Prince of
Luxembourg, to deliver a fhip of that defcription. , The bargain was

concluded

BY THE DUK t>E LA HOCHEl-'OOCAULt LlANCOuRT. 571

concluded in this manner, that for the expence incurred by fitting out
this frigate, the Prince was to have a fourth of the neat proceeds of all
the prizes taken by the fhip, and in cafe of her being taken, the whole
value of the frigate. She was built in Holland, and mounted forty-eight
guns. Some months elapfed, before me could be of any fervicc, becaufe
the Prince engaged the crew in France. At length me put to fea, and
took fcveral prizes, but was afterwards taken off the American coaft, and,
as trie Pt'ince afl'ertcd, through Gillon's mifconducl:, whom he charged
with having furreiidered her to the Englifh for a confidcrable fum of mo-
ney.' The ftate acknowledged a debt of thirty thoufand pounds fterling,
all the prizes being previously deducted, in addition to the fixty thoufand
pottnds fr.erling which the Prince had already received. After the death
of the Prince his heirs fcnt Dr. CUTTING, an American, one of the phy-
ficians of the army, to facilitate the payment of that fum. The Marflial
do CA'Siih FS', fVom an opinion, that the frigate had been built for French
money, that the Prince had only acted as a fecret agent of France, who
wilhcd to' aifiil America, before me had publicly declared herfelf in her
favour,, claimed this debt, as being the property of the royal trcafury.
The French conful oppofed therefore in l/(jr>, the claim of the Prince's
heirs, adding, that even in the cafe of its forming a lawful demand of the
late Prince, it was now cfcheatcd to the French Republic ; all his own
efhites, as well as thofe of his heirs, having been confifcated on the
ground of emigration. The payment is, therefore, deferred, and the
flate of Carolina., which has the money ready, is only waiting for the
fentencc of a competent judge, as to the pcrfons to whom me is to pny
the debt. In the meanwhile Mr.. Cutting has received from the- itate
four tlioufund pounds flcrling, .the amount of his difburfements, on con-
dition of refunding this fum, if the Jaw-iuit mould be decided againilthc

heirs.

The . ft ate of South Carolina pays its officers better, than any other

ftate of the Union. The Governor'.- pay is two thoufand levcn hundred

' "
^hW fifty-two dollars'; the Chicf^juUkc hu^ three thoufand three hun-

'Ired ; the other judges two fhoufanol five lamdrcd. This pay beinc;

4 D 2 nearlv

572 TRAVELS IX NORTH AMERICA,

nearly equal to that paid by the Union, is the reafon why, -in Carolina,
places under the Union are not eagerly fought after.

South Carolina was reduced to the utmoft diftrefs by the devaftation
of her pofTeffions by the Engliih, and the entire ftagnation of her trade.
The utmoft fcarcity of fpecies prevailed throughout the ftate, and this was

. k. ' t i ' . '

the reafon why neither any public 'or private debt was paid. From thefe

confederations the legiflature refolved, in 1785, to introduce paper- mo-

- ^ . r r

ney, opened for this purpofe a loan for one hundred thoufand pounds
O j J ' . r r r r

fterling, for five years, and paid in paper-money double the value of the
gold, nlver, and other precious effects, which were deponted by the cre-
ditors. This money was received by the treafury of the ftate in payment
of old debts as well as of taxes. If the borrower did not, at the appointed

3fiJ ; 1

time, reimburfe the fum borrowed, together with the annual intereft of

feven per cent, the effects depofited were fold for the benefit of the ftatc,

V'TiGl )(J 6plJ5i.li

until the entire difcharge of the debt. This fort of loan, which was to

133 jJ .>'>/> . TM :<1 Oi D* ^

t ccafe, in. 1/91, has been prolonged until 1801 ; and the intereft is em-
ployed fpr the fervice of the ftate, to make up any deficiency which may
tale place under the head of taxes. This paper-money, which no law

v . . . X*

forced into a compulfory circulation, was fb frequently offered in the
courfe of private tranfa&ions, that it could not be refufed. It fiiffered

l t f *~\ i *^\' '

. a depreciation of twenty per cent, but at prefeiit it is fcarcely below
par, except i;i purchafing foreign bills, when it is at ninety-nine per cent,
6therwife it is at par with bank notes and fpecies.
, . To t wp banks, inftituted in Charleftown three or four years ago, is

cniefiy to be Attributed, that a period has been put to this deprtciation of
'"*' . . . . ,

the paper money, and all commercial operations are ndw earned ofi with

.greater facility ; the moft fubftantial hbufes were formerly obliged to pay
five per ,cent intereft a month for hard cafh. This is more or left the

cafe in all' the trading towns of the United States. It is yet very common

' . . J . J .. ..> .

for planters to borrow money on mortgage at the fame, i nay, ^rngner in-
tereft. This may, however, in part be occTiftoned by the general fcarcify
, qf fpecies, and, in peculiar cafes, from the circumfcribed fottunes of the

planters^

BY THK DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 573

planters^ , perhaps alfo from their prodigal mode of life, by which they are
obliged to refort to fuch refourccs.

This notorious fcarcity of money, as well as the poverty to which the

inhabitants pf Carolina were reduced by the defolation of the Englifh,

induced the legislature in 1788 to grant the debtors an indult for five

years, on condition of their paying yearly a fifth part of their debt, and

. giving fecurity for the whole.

In South Carolina there are two banks. One is a branch of that of the
United States. , Its feat is at Philadelphia, and its capital belongs to
that of the chief bank. It was inltituted in l 790, and is managed in the
lame manner as all the other branches of that bank. The dividend is at
prefent one half per cent.

In 1 7Q2 another bank was eftablimed by feveral merchants of the
town, under the name of the South Carolina bank. The capital confifled
at firft of two hundred thoufand dollars, or five thoufand mares of forty
dollars each ; but the following year it was increafed to three hundred
thoufand dollars, by two thoufand five hundred new fhares. Laft March
it was raifed to five hundred and twenty-five thoufand dollars, by five
thoufand new fhares, of twenty-five dollars each. Thofe new fhares
were raifed five dollars on very juft grounds, fince the holders of the new
fhares participate in the benefits arifing from the dividends not yet paid.
This bank is not yet incorporated ; the fecurity of the ftockholders, and
of thofe who accept their notes, depends therefore entirely on the capital
pf.the bank, and on the private property of the directors, as far as it is
known. It will be incorporated, it feems, during the next feffion of the
' legiflature. This bank regulates the dividends every three months. In
the< years 1 7Q2 and 1 7Q3, thefe amounted to nine per cent ; and in 1 794,
; 1 7Q5, and the firil fix months of 1 796, to fifteen per cent. The directors
aUb flate, that they have kept back and laid by fixty thoufand dollars out

of the profits. ., The bank tranfacts bufinefs in the fame manner as the

* . .... ' :

other banks in America, but it is faid to have exceeded, in the circulation

. of its notte^ J^at proportion to its capital, which prudent directors of a

bank

574 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

bank generally obferve. But fuccefs has juftificd the management of the
directors, as its credit is at prcfent more firmly eftablifhed than ever. The
increafe of the capital flock enables the direction to enlarge the bufmefs
of the bank, without overleaping the bounds of prudence ; and the : capital
is intended to be increafed .to .one million of Collars within two years.

The institution of thefc two banks has 'been attended in Carolina with
the fame effects, which banks generally prodiice in all trading countries ;
nay, the refults have been rather ; more beneficial in this country, becaufc
the icarcity of money was here uncommonly great. Trade and com-
merce have been greatly -enlarged by means of the money advanced 'to
the merchants, and by other circumftances. The trade to India, in which'
Charleftown yearly employs fome mips, has been increafed, paid agricul-
ture railed by fums of money advanced to diftreiled planters, whbfe.fettle-
mcnts would otherwife have been fold. The bank has alfo affixed the
company of the Santee-canal with conlldcrable fums, and thus promoted
tljis vMyk, which. is generally deemed highly important for the; agriculture
and trade of. South; Carolina. Its notes circulate alfo in Georgia.

. Kew planters poflejfeariy confiderabie fortunes, excepting a^Mr. Bligh.
w4io resides iii .England, and is proprietor of fomc very fine and valuable;"-
plantation's in South Carolina. He has from twelve to fifteen hundred 'ne-
groes,: and raifcs.' yearly from three thoufand fn-c hundred to four thouiand
fiv.e hundred barrels of rice. They feel yet the confcqucnces of the war.
tljpugh in ii Icis icniibk degree ; moft of them arc ilill :n\oh-cd in 'debt; -
and owe Gonfidcnibl-e fums to merchants, cither lor negroes jinice the time
when it w r as ftill lawful to import them into- Carolina, or for the .yearly
fqppliqs of their- plantations-with provifion, :for v.hich die harveii is in~-
tcncjed as .'a fecurity, wit;h>u .being at. all tiirics : applied to the 'payment of
tliieir.debt, S]'xx- illations in.the.public'funds form alfo a coiifidcrabte braiVch
of commerce to thoie who {peculate -with jarigmcnt andprudenQe. The
ftpcks of the- Union 'arc, from the icarcity (-,{ money, always at a .lower:'
price in CliarlciLOVtii than -Philadelphia.

In 1 /88 the importation of negroes into Carolina from Afrita Was vrc-
hibijcd- This prohibition was occasioned by the debt, which the plant-

A * A

ers

BY THE DUKE DE LA KOCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 575

crs had contracted ; and by the neceflTity under which the Icgiflature found
itfelf, to fecure the payment of it by postponing the inftalmcnts, and to
prevent the opening of a new lource of debt, before the old was difcharged.
The prohibition extended only to 1 793, but was afterwards enlarged un-
til the end of 1 79*> ; it has however always met with ftrong opposition
on the part of the planters, which increafes in proportion as their eltatcs
are cleared of debt. It expires on the ift of January, 1797- Violent
debates are expected, but the friends of the prohibition are likely to pre-
vail, efpecially as the demand of Carolina indigo has decreafed, and the
back country, which produced a confiderable quantity of this article, and
for this purpofe flood much in need of negroes, now needs them lefs for
the culture of Indian corn, wheat, and tobaccd, which has pretty gene-
rally been fubflituted m the flead of indigo. As to th'e confequenccs of
this prohibition, it is allowed, on all hands, that the negroes, who w r ere
formerly treated with great cruelty, have fmce experienced a much milder
treatment. ; The negroes are fold in the market'of Charleftown like bul-
locks and horfes ; the day of the intended auclion being previously adver-
tifed in the newfpapers. They are expofed to fale on a fort of ftage,
turned about, and exhibited, from all fides, by the common cryer, put up
and adjudged to the high eft bidder. This fpe&acle, which is offered four
or five times a week, renders the fpectators callous. Population, which
ro well managed fettlements, increafes in the proportion of fix per hun-
dred, cannot in this ftate be averaged higher than at two per cent. A
negro, who works well, cofts from three hundred to three hundred and
fifty dollars, a common negro two hundred dollars, and a common ne-
grcfs from one hundred to one hundred 'and -fifty dollars.

South Carolina is divided by 1 nature into two parts, Upper and Lower
Carolina. Along the coaft, and more than 611^ hundred miles wcftwards,
the country 7 is flat and level. Here ate the'fwamps, partly formed by the
tide, which are called tidc-Jwamps ; and partly watered out of large refer-
voirs, which being at a greater diftance from tire fea than the former, are
known by the name oi'mla-nd-Jwamps. About one hundred miles be-
hind them the country fwells into hills, and rifes in progreffive gradation,

until

5/6 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

until at length it terminates in the Alleghany Mountains, which feparate
the waters that fall into the Atlantic Ocean from thofe which discharge
thcmfelves into the Mimfippi.

From this natural divifion of the country arifes a twofold mode of cul-
tivation. In the low country rice is cultivated, and the neceflary corn for
the fubfiftence of the negroes. The land, fituated between the fwamps,
which feems fandy, and bears nothing but pines, might be fown with
corn, but it remains uncultivated from want of hands.

The iflands along the coaft of South Carolina, $.nd even fome traces
of the coaft, were, until thefe late years, entirely devoted to the culture
of indigo ; but cotton is now cultivated in its room. In the upper country,
where the cultivation of cotton alfo begins to gain ground, tobacco is
raifed, together with all fpecies of grain. The moft opulent planters only
refide in the lowxr country ; people of lefs property, or of no property at
all, live in the upper country, where they endeavour to raife a fortune by
clearing land, which is generally fold them, on credit, for one or two
dollars per acre, and which they may eafily fell again for four or five times
as much, after they have cleared the ground, and paid the purchafc-mo-
ney out of the produce of the firft years.

The climate in Lower Carolina is w r arm, damp, unfettled, and un-
healthy. The inhabitants fuffer feverely, every autumn, from malignant,
bilious fevers, which cut off great numbers ; even they who are moil ac-
cuftomed to the climate cannot preferve themfelves from fomc fits of the
fever. In the upper country the climate is lefs warm, more dry, and, of
confequence, more healthy. As to the back country, no meteorological
obfervations can be given, as the very ufe of the thermometer is there
utterly unknown. In regard to the lower country, they are very regularly
taken in Charleftown, by the Medical Society of that place, which was in-
ftitutcd in 1791. Since that time the mercury fell but once under twenty-
eight of Fahrenh. In the year 1 752 it was at eighteen of Fahrenh. By thefe
obfervations the highcft degree of heat was, in 1701, ninety of Fahrenh.
(twenty-five fcvcn-ninths of Reaum.) ; 1702, ninety-three of Fahrenh.
(twenty-fcvcn one-ninth of Rcaum.) ; 1 793, eighty-nine of Fahrenh.

(twenty-

BY THE EUK.E DK LA IIOCIIKPOUCAUL.T UANCOURT. 57?.

( twenty -five one-third of Reaum.) ; 179-1, ninety 7 one. .of Fahrenheit
(twenty-fux. two-ninths ofReaiim.); and 1/95, ninety-two of Fahren-
heit (twenty-fix two-thirds of Reaum.). In 1/5O, the thermometer
flood at ninety-ilx of Fahrenheit (twenty-eight tbm'-ninths of Reaiyii.) ;
1 75 I, at ninety-four of Fahrenheit (twenty-feven five-ninths of Eeajim.);
and in 1^52, at one hundred and one of Fahrenheit (thirty and two-
thirds of Reaum.)

The higheft degree, of cold was, in 1701, twenty-eight of Fahrenheit

(One feven-ninths underbought of Reaum.); 1/1)2, thirty of Fahrenheit
(eight-ninths under nought of Reaum.) ; J 793, thirty of Fahrenheit

Itood at twenty-three of Fahrenheit (four under nought of Reaum.) ;

anq in l/"52, at eighteen of Fahrenheit (fix two-ninths under nought of.

ixeaum. j.

1 .

The temperature of fpring-w 7 ater, in Charlefton, is fixty-four and
half of Fahrenheit, and/ confequently, twelve degrees warmer than in
Philadelphia. Rain-water, kept in citterns, is one degree and half warmer
than in Philadelphia. Thefe obfervations have been communicated to
me by Dr. RAMSAY, Vice-prcfident of the Medical Society ; and I have
been allured, that they are exact.

The great quantity of land, which has been cleared \\ithiii thcfc 1.

forty-fix years, and is now under cultivation, cannot but have nrodn

- . :

confiaerable changes in the climate, yet no certain opinion can be. lorn

on thefe obfervations, 'which have only been taken thefe latt five years-

,
paft, prior to which none had been made iince 1752. The fudderi al-

' ' '

tefations m the thermometer at Charleflarv are Trv .coalideraWc : and.

' . '

although, by the aiTertion ot tlie Medical S q Ids fo t!

i 1

s in the rourfe of one day. In 175 I. on the }i\ of December t.K ,-

4 E mercury

578 TRAVELS iyt NORTH AMERICA,

mercury fell from feventy to twenty-four of Fahrenheit (from fixteen
u wo-thirds above to three five-ninths under nought of Reaum.), or forty-
'ix degrees.

Winter is, in Charlgfton, the rnoft pleafant feafon. At the feverefl
froft the foil freezes fcarcely two inches deep, and the froft continues not
three days. Yet the intenfe heat of the fummer renders the human
frame fo fenfible to cold, that, in Charleston, five or fix months together,
they keep fire in the rooms ; and that, to the beft of my information, one
family ufes more wood in that town, than two families in Philadelphia.

North -westerly winds prevail in Charlefton in winter, and fouth-
wefterly in fummer ; for which reafon, and in order to procure as much
frefh air as poffible, houfes are generally built fouthwards, in preference
to all other pofitions.

It rains much in South Carolina ; at times a drought will happen,
which continues three months, and then is followed by a fall of rain for
three weeks, or a whole month. By the obfervations of the Medical So-
ciety, the rain, which fell in 17Q1, amounted to ninety-fix inches, in
1792, to eighty-eight inches, in 1793, to one hundred and fourteen
inches, in 1794, to one hundred and eighteen inches, and in 1795, to
feventy-one inches.

Although Charle{t.on ferves as a place of refuge to the cultivators of
rice, yet it is not free from autumnal fevers ; intermittent and bilious fe-
vers, the epidemic diftempers of this country, are not unfrequent in this
town. The warmth of the blood, increafed in South Carolina by the
ufe of wine and fpirituous liquors, engenders a difpofition for inflamma-
tory diftempers, which manifefts itfelf in fummer. Confiderable num-
bers were cut off by the fever in 1 792 and 1794. The yellow fever, it is
aflerted, raged with great violence fix times between the beginning and the
middle of this century, but has not made its appearance fince 17-18. Some
phyficians are, however, of opinion, that the fever of 1792 and 1/94 had
feveral fymptoms in common with the yellow fever. However this may
be, it has at leaft, fince the fever of 1 793, in Philadelphia, ihewn itfelf
every where ; and it is a circumftance peculiarly remarkable, that the ma-
lignant difeafes, which carried off fuch great numbers in New York and

Philadelphia,

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAVJLT LIANCOURT.

Philadelphia, fpared foreigners, and efpecially Frenchmen, in thofe places ;
while, on the contrary, in Charlefton, they frequently fell victims of
thefe cruel maladies. Upon the whole, however, Charlefton is fuppofed
.o be far more healthy than any other place; and its falubrity is likely
to increafe, according to refearches and obfervations made by the phyii-
cians.

The police of Charlefton is extremely deficient in thofe meafures,.
which fhould not be wanting in any populous town, fituated in fo hot a
climate. Cleanlinefs in the ftreets, as well as houfes, is greatly neglected,
OrFenfive fmells are very frequent ; feveral burying-grounds are in the
midft of the town, and carcafes are frequently fuffered to lie uninterred.
A bird, which in point of plumage and ihape is much like a turkey, and
is known in the country under the name of turkey buzzard, foon devours
the carcafe, and merely leaves the bones; but the voracity of this bird
cannot excufe the indolence of the police. It is very common all over
South Carolina, and, in fome meafure, worshipped by the inhabitants of
the town. No law, it is true, has been enacted, which prohibits to kill
this bird, but the public opinion, neverthelefs, carefully attends to its pre-
fervation.

Meafures tending to avert or indemnify lofles by fire are equally neg-
lected. Three- fourths of the buildings are conftructed of wood ; and the
few which are built of ftone, are roofed with mingles, though numerous
tile-kilns are in the vicinity of the town. It would be extremely eafy,
and,- at the fame time, highly prudent, to introduce a fafer mode of build-
ing, at leaft in regard to fuch houfes as are either new built or thoroughly
repaired. From the conftruction, which has hitherto prevailed, and the
heedleflhefs of the negroes (whofe number amounts to thirteen or four-
teen thoufand) conflagrations are very frequent in this town. During
the time of rny refidcnce, feventy- feven houfes, forming a whole fquare,
encircled by four ftreets, were burnt down to the ground, without one
imgle building having been faved. Shortly after rny departure another
fire broke out, which was ftill more dreadful. The regulations, relative
to the extinguifhing fires, are as bad as the meafures to prevent it. Every
one haftens to the fire as a looker-on. There are none who command,

4 E 2 and

580 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

and none who obey, either at the fire-engines, which are not only few in
number, but alfo in a very bad condition, or at the demolition of build-
ings, by which a fire might be prevented from fpreading farther. The
negroes alone are employed to extinguiih the fire, with the addition of
few whites. They work with zeal and fpirit, but without much ufe,
from want of a proper direction. What a contrail between this confu-
fion, and the regular activity obferved in fuch cafes in the northern
ftates, where es^ery inhabitant is member of a fociety, formed for this
benevolent purpofe, and battens to the fire w r ith two leather buckets,
which are to be kept by every houfe. The fire-engines are attended by
men, who underftand the buiinefs, and work them with the utmoft
zeal and judgment. The leather buckets with water pafs without in-
terruption from hand to hand, along a row of men, drawn up from the
houfe on fire to the engine.

So far from any free-fchools exifling in the tow^nfhips of South Caro-
lina, as in New r England, there are not even fchools where children can
receive inftruclion for money. In hopes of earning a comfortable liveli-
hood, inilructors now and then eftablifh themfelves in the moft popu-
lous towns and villages. Two or three fchools, where the inftruclion is
extended beyond reading and writing, have been inftituted in South Ca-
rolina ; three colleges have alfo been formed by the legislature within
thefe laft three years in Charlefton, Columbia, and Beaufort, where edu-
cation is to be finifhed. The inhabitants of South Carolina formerly fent
their children either to the colleges in the northern ftatcs, or to England ;
but now they begin to difcern, how pernicious it is, to fend children to
fo great a diftance from their parents, at an age w r hen they have fo much
need of their care and advice, and to expatriate them during a period,
in which all their habits, fentiments, and feelings are formed, and when
they frequently adopt principles and manners, altogether different from
thole of the country, in which they are to refide for life, nay fometimes
diametrically oppoiite to the cuftoms of their native land. It is on thefe
grounds that the legiflature has refolved to inftitute three colleges, which,
however, are not yet finimed. That of Charleston, which begins to
exercife its functions, is not completed. From thefmall number of maf-
ters, the fcholars are hurried through the courfe of their fhidies, fo that a

youth,

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOILCAULT LIANCOUKT. 581

youth, fcarcely fifteen years old, has gone through all theclafles. He has
thus finifhed his ftudics at a time, when he mould fpend three or four
years more to complete them, and engages in the bufmefs of life, unfur-
iiimed with any means of defence againft the depravation of morals, with
which he is threatened in South Carolina. Thefe inconveniencies may
perhaps be redreiTed ; but nothing has yet been done in South Caro-
lina to provide means of inftruclion for the multitude, nor are the inhabi-
tants fecmingly aware of the neccffity of providing them.

No manufactory has hitherto been eftablimed in South Carolina, ex-
cepting a few corn-mills in the back country, which have been con-
ftrucled on principles fo very indifferent, that they cannot furnim any
flour for exportation, but merely grind fufficient corn for the confump-
tion of fome families in the lower country. The opulent inhabitants of
Charlefton, as well as rich farmers, ufe only the flour of Philadelphia or
Baltimore. A mill, built near Camden, one hundred and twenty miles
from Charlefton, after that creeled at Brandywine, begins at prefent to
furnifli good flour.

In different places of this ftate tile-kilns have been creeled, which
yield their proprietors a confiderable profit. The tiles coft eleven dollars
a thoufand.

Although Carolina is furnifhed with live oak, cedar, cyprefs, and pine,
in mort with the beft timber in the utmoft abundance, yet not ten fliips
are built in the courfe of a year, and thefe only by workmen of the
northern ftates, as induftry lies yet dormant in Carolina, and the mer-
chants find it more profitable to purchafe their flnips in the north, or to
get them built there of timber, fent thither from Carolina.

The price of fhips, completely fitted out and ready for fea, is at pre-
fent fevcnty-ieven dollars a ton. In Beaufort or Georgetown they are
about fcvcn or eight dollars cheaper : and in time of peace they coft in
general a third or fourth lefs than in time of war. Iron and great quan-
tities of hemp are drawn from Sweden and Ruffia, though the latter ar-
ticle is already cultivated in, tolerable quantities in the back country.
Their fail-cloth comes from Bofton or England.

Ailiip,

58$ . TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

A fhip, conftru&ed of Carolina timber, is extremely durable, if it be
repaired in time ; the price of oak timber is thirty-two cents of a dol-
lar the cubic foot; oak planks, fix feet in length, half a dollar; fir
timber, four dollars the hundred cubic feet; rnafts, from eighteen to
twenty inches diameter, and from fixty to feventy feet in length, from
forty-four to forty-eight dollars. You feldom. meet with any of a 'large
lize. The fouthern pine, from its great weight, can be ufed only for
lower mails. Cyprefs planks coft two dollars and half; fir, two dollars.
Carpenters' wages are, for white people, two dollars and half, and for
negroes one dollar and half a day.

The market of Charleilon is, generally fpeaking, but very indifferently
fupplied with provifions. Butchers' meat is in general very bad from the
heat of th& climate, and from the feed of the cattle, which are turned into
the woods to graze. In winter, the bullocks, which are deflined for the
market, are fed with the ftraw of Indian-corn. This beef is fomewhat
better ; but not fo good as in the north. Since a great many families
have migrated hither from the French Weft Indian iflands, who fub-
fift upon gardening, good culinary plants and roots, are more frequent
than formerly.

The price of beef is one-eighth of a dollar the pound, mutton and veal
one-fourth of a dollar, flour from the north twenty dollars a barrel, and
Carolina flour fifteen dollars. Salt is imported from Turk's Iflands, Portu-
gal, or England, and cofts one dollar a bulhel ; fire -wood, without any
distinction, is five dollars the cord. Houfe-rent amounts, upon an ave-
rage, to three hundred dollars ; there are houfes for which thirteen hun-
dred dollars a year are paid.

The abovementioned Medical Society is the only fcientific inftitution
in South Carolina. It was eftablifhed five years ago. Several members
fecm anxioufly defirous of rendering it ufeful. But indolence and inac-
tivity prevail in this country in fuch a degree, that there is reafon to
doubt the extent of their exertions, until the refults fliall fliow, that it
was fufficient to produce any beneficial effects. This indolence in re-
gard to fcience.is a matter of fevere reproach againft all the ilates of

the

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT L1ANCOURT. 583

the Union. But on confidering their fmall population, and the profit-
able employment in which the major* part of thofe inhabitants are en-
gaged, who poflefs the largeft mare of knowledge and information, we
ihall find little reafon to wonder, that the fciences make fo How a pro-
grefs in this infant country. But a circumftance, well qualified to ex-
cite aftonifhment, is this, that the different literary focieties, which un-
der a variety of names have been formed in the United States, have not
yet adopted any means for diffufmg the knowledge of ufeful machines,
of agricultural improvements, &c. as for this purpofe it would be fuffi-
cient to translate certain articles of European books or journals. Agaiiij
it is a matter of furprife, that thefe focieties mould not correfpond,
and communicate to each other their obfervations on epidemic difeafes,
on the moft proper treatment of them, fanctioned by experience, on the
beft preventatives, and many other fubjecls of great national importance,
which might fo eafily be done in the United States. Thefe focieties are
alone able to erTecl; this ufeful purpofe ; and were they compofed of mem-
bers as deeply learned as thofe of the Royal Society in London, and of the
Academy of Paris, this profound erudition would prove perfectly ufelefs
for a confiderable length of time ; that is, as long as America fliall Only
{land in need of that plain and fimple inftruclion, which is fo indif-
penfably neceffary to the profperity of the country, and the prefervation
of the inhabitants.

Phyfical and meteorological obfervations, carefully taken in all the.
United States, could eafily procure information of a certain defcription,
namely, fuch as concerns the influence of the fudden clearing of wood
lands on the temperature, falubrity, and unfettlednefs of the weather,
a -id on the change of the wind, which is fo efTentially important for the
fciences and the interefts of humanity.

A library has been formed in Charlefton, and is Supported by the vo-
luntary contributions of a great number of the inhabitants. It was burnt
down to the ground at the time, when the Englilh were in pofTeffion of
the town, and has iince been confumed again by fire. This library,
which is not yet very large, coniiils of well-chofen books, and is yearly

encreafed

584 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

encreafcd by purchafe as well as donations. Although the fubfcribers,
by the fubfifting regulations, enjoy but a very limited right of making
ufeofthe books, yet they, who wilh it, can eafily obtain them. The
rooms of the library contain fome very good prints, and curious ma-
chines. You alfo find there bones of an extraordinary fize, which were
found ou digging out the canal of Santee. They confift chiefly in bones
and jaws, much of the fame fize and fhapc, as thofe which are found in
feveral parts of America, fuch as Kentucky, the banks of the Ohio and
Miifouri, and the north- weftern territory ; they are, it' is fuppoied, bones
of the mammoth, an animal which feems fabulous to the learned, fmce
none of that fpecies have hitherto been found in asy , part of the globe.
In the opinion of fome they are elephants' bones, and their exiftencc in
America is explained according to Button's iyftem. But many cf thefe
bones exceed in fizc thofe of elephants. Shin-bones have been found of "
ten inches in diameter, and teeth upwards of two feet in length. I have
ieen one, to which the lower part of the jaw was yet joined, and which
weighed upwards of fitty pounds.

Charleflon is full of Frenchmen from St. Domingo, and of com-
manders of privateers. Some of the former have brought money
with them ; at leaft they have not all fpent their fortunes ; and many
earn a livelihood by letting negroes, whom they brought from St.
Domingo. The French planters and commanders of privateers differ
widely in their political opinions ; but the love of gaming reconciles
them all, and in the French gaming-houfes, which are very numerous in
Charlefton, Ariilocrats and Sans-culottes mix in friendly intercourfe, and
iridifcrirnmately furroiiml the tables. It is afferted, that they play very
high.

The principles of the French demagogues predominated long in Charlef-
ton. For feveral years a Jacobin club exifted in this town, of which Mr.
HARPER, at prefent a violent Federalift, was member. The French conful
MANGO.UR.Y,.predcce{Tor of the prefent conful, was a conilant member of
this club. But, although he was conful and agent of the French nation,
and prefident of the club, yet he was denounced by a common feaman

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LlANCOURf . 585

on account of his uncivic conduct, and was obliged to fubmit to the hu-
miliation of hearing his exclufion propofed by the daring feaman, which
motion, however, fell to the ground, through the eloquence of a barber.
At the alteration of the French conftitution this club fhared the fate of
all other Jacobin meetings ; at the time of its difTolution it confifted
entirely of Frenchmen, all the Americans havingpwithdrawn prior to that
event.

Among the emigrants from St. Domingo Dr. POLONY holds a diftin-
guiihed rank. He poiTeiTes an uncommon ftock of profound learning,
and is member of feveral literary focieties in Europe. Repeated travels
in the northern and fouthern ftates, and his extenfive information, en-
abled him to communicate to the Academy of Paris a great variety of
ufeful obfervations. As naturalift and chemift, he was peculiarly efteemed
by Count Buffon. He has a complete work on St. Domingo ready for
the prefs ; the little I have read of it, appeared to me replete with found
argument and luminous philofophical difcuffion. In regard to what he
fays on the drftempers incident to hot countries, I am no competent judge;
but it feems to contain a great variety of profound refearches, and keen,
elaborate obfervations.

1 met in Charlefton with a fchool- fellow of mine, Mr. de la CHA-
PELLE, a man of uncommon worth, and of the nobleft and moil gene-
rous mind. He has faved no more than fifteen hundred Louis d'or ; and
yet from his frugal mode of life he is able to do much good to others, by
whom however his kindnefs' is frequently abufed.

GOOSE CREEK.

During my refidence in Philadelphia in the winter of 1 795, 1 promifed
Mr. ISARD to pay him a vifit at his country-feat, if I fhould ever come to
South Carolina. He was member of the Congrefs at the time, when the
constitution was framed. Since the beginning of the revolution, when
he entered on his political career, he has constantly performed his func-
tions with that honefly, zeal, and diftintereftednefs, which form the con-

4 F fpicuous

5S6 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

fpicuous features of his character. His private concerns, which had fe-
verely fuffered from the devastations of the Englifh, were flill more de-
ranged by his long abfencc, and his family is very numerous. From thefe
motives, as well as from his love of a retired life, he refigned his mare in
the administration, of public affairs, from which neither honour nor profit
can be derived in this country. He fettled accordingly in South Caro-
lina, where he intends to fpend the remainder of his days, partly in the
country and partly in town, furrounded by a numerous family, by whom
he is evidently loved and refpecled. He is a fmcere and zealous partifan
of the federalift iyftem, which is far from being popular in South Ca-
rolina. But they who differ from him in opinion on this fubjed:, at the
fame time do juftice to his character ; and having travelled much in
Europe, the information he pofleffes is of a more pleafmg caft, than is
generally acquired by Americans. His lady, who is univerfally refpecled
in the country, poileffes a cultivated mind ; me is amiable and polite, and
has pailed fome years in Europe with feveral of her children.

The eftate of Mr. Ifard confrfts almoft entirely of rice-fwamps ; he
owns three or four plantations, very conveniently fituated for that pur-
pofe, and by all accounts well managed ; his ilaves amount to five hun-
dred. His manfion is, properly fpeaking, only a country- houfe, built by
his great grandfather, who arrived from England at the time, when the
firfl fettlements w 7 ere formed in this country. It is very feldom that
eftates continue here fo long in the fame family, as from a natural pro-
penfity to change, the barter of eftates is corritnon among the inhabitants
of Carolina.

This fettlement, which Mr. Ifard has named Elms, from a fine planta-
tion of elm trees, which he planted himfelf, contains about fourteen hun-
dred acres. He cultivates only three hundred, and keeps on this eftate
from twenty-five to thirty negroes. Indian-corn, barley, and potatoes,
are its ufual produce. A fwamp of about one hundred acres is well
fituated for the culture of rice, and is already in part applied to it ; he is
now bufied in felling the remaining trees, to devote it entirely to this
purpofc.

I have

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 687

I have feen here the commencement of the procefs of clearing. The
part, deftined for tlie culture of rice, is furrounded with a wide ditch ;
the earth, dug out of the ditch, ferves to raife a dike, which on one
fide has one or two openings, ihut up by locks, to let the water on
the rice-field, fome being conftantly kept in a refervoir on more ele-
vated ground for this purpofe. Were it not for this dike the water
would inundate the fwamps at certain periods of the year, and fweep
away the rice, which has juft fprouted. When the ditch and dike are
finifhed, the trees are cut down, but {lumps are left in the ground as
high as in the northern fettle merits. The fmall branches are burnt, the
ibil is fomewhat loofened, and the rice planted amidft thefe large trunks
of trees, which are not burnt or cut into fire-wood till fome years after-
wards. Mr. Ifard has aflured me, that the produce of the firft and
fecond year, notwithftanding the trunks of trees thus partly covering the
foil, is equal to that of any other ground, no part of which has been loft.
This is the method of clearing the ground, univerfally obferved in Ame-
rica. The produce of the culture of rice, as variable as that of any other
branch of agriculture, fluctuates between two and four barrels per acre ;
Mr. Ifard obtains three ; the barrel weighs fix hundred and twenty-five
pounds. Mr. Ifard's land yields from fifteen to twenty bufhels of Indian
corn, and one hundred bumels of potatoes an acre. A negro cultivates
five acres of rice-field, and three or four of provifion, as they are called,
that is, Indian-corn and potatoes.

Mr. Ifard is a zealous advocate for flavery ; from all the accounts, he
has been able to colled:, it is his firm belief, that a free negro is more in-
dolent and vicious, than a negro Have. But he makes not any ill ufe of
the unlimited authority, which by the laws of South Carolina the planters
enjoy over their ilaves. The mildnefs of his difpofition is obfervable in
his conduct towards his negroes, as in fact it is in every action of his life,
unlefs the vivacity of his temper is wrought up by his peculiar opinions,
efpecially on political fubjects.

Mrs. Ifard has made feveral experiments of rearing filk-worms, which
thefe laft two years have proved uncommonly fuccefsful. Whether in
this country, which is fo well qualified for this fpecies of culture, any

4 F 2 more

588 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

more attempts of that nature have been made, I know not, but Mrs.
Ifard was induced to engage in them, from an earned defire of promoting
the profperity of the country.

Goofe Creek is the name of the parim in which Mr. Ifard's eftate is
fituated. It contains about three hundred fquare miles, was feveral years
without a paftor, and has but very lately obtained one. As the pay of
the clergy is raifed by fubfcription, fuch planters only contribute towards
their fubfiftence, as refide in the vicinity of the church. Devotion is not
a prevailing faihion in this country. The prefent certain income of the
paftor of this pariili exceeds not fix hundred and forty-three dollars per
annum. One Sunday, which I fpent with Mr. Ifard, I went with him
to church, where I found fifteen white people, and about thirty negroes
and negrefles, who occupied the aifles ; for in the fouthern ftates the
negroes are not fuffered to mix with whites.

The road from Charlefton to Elms runs through Dorchefter ; it is fandy
like all the other roads in South Carolina. In the vicinity of the town the
fand has lefs compaclnefs, and, of confequence, fatigues both men and
horfes more, than at a greater diftance from the town, on account of die
great number of waggons, which, as the phrafe here is, plough the country.
For the firft three or four miles the houfes ftand pretty clofe together, but
farther on you find only fcattered plantations, the buildings belonging to
which feldom ftarid near the road. The only inn on this road, which is
feventeen miles in length, lies ten miles from the town. In the courfe of
the laft war the Engliih had, during their refidence in Charlefton, either
from motives of military precaution, want of fire-wood, or luft of devafta-
tion, cut down every tree within ten miles of the town. Vegetation is
fo very powerful in this country, that all thefe trees are not only grown
up again, but have alfo attained a confiderable fize. The luxuriance of
the woods ftands unrivalled ; there are eighteen different fpecies of oak,
particularly the live-oak, palmetto or cabbage-tree, cucumber-tree, deci-
duous cyprcfs, liquidambar, hickory, &c. In fhort, all the fpecies of
trees, which are fo exceffively dear in Europe, ten of which are bought
to fave one, for which both fituation and foil are carefully felecled, and
which yet never attain any confiderable height, are here the natural pro-
duce

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LI AN COURT. 58Q

Juce of the country, and thrive mofl excellently. Equally ftriking to
Europeans is the pleating luxuriance of ihrubs, plants, and various fpecies
of grafs, which difFufe moft of them an exquiilte fragrance. My firfl
rambles through thefe woods afforded me, therefore, an uncommon plea-
fure.

Some parts of South Carolina, where the fand is lefs fertile, bear no
other trees than pine, and for this reafon are called pins-barrens. But even
on thefe lands grows a fpecies of grafs, which, though inferior to that
produced on a good foil, fcrves both winter and fummer for the feed of
horfes, bullocks, and cows, which graze in the woods. This grafs is called
crab -grafs.

At fome diftance from the road lies a garden, where a French botaniil,
who is paid by the French government, raifes the trees of the country
from the feed as well as layers, and fends them to Mr. THOUIN at
Paris, with whom he maintains a literary correfpondence. The name of
this botanifl is MICHARD ; he has refided in America thefe fifteen years,
and traverfed every part of the country, to enrich France with the fineft
productions of the United States. He was juft returned from the Illinois
with a rich collection of beautiful plants and herbs. He peculiarly ex-
tols the vegetation in the Teneffee, where he has difcovered a tree, from
the root of which a beautiful pale yellow colour is extracted. He clafTes
it among the fophoras, but has not feen it in bloflbm, and confequently
judges only from the growth, leaves and feed. He has given the latter
to General Blount, who has offered to return him the plants. During
his abfence two negroes took care of his garden, and kept it very clean
of weeds. This garden anfwers extremely well the views of Mr. Thouin,
to domelticate in France the greateft poffible number of the productions
of all countries, for which purpofe he has formed nurferies in the French
dominions, under different degrees of latitude, to accuftom exotic plants
to the French climate by infeuuble degrees. Mr. Thouin is, in my
opinion, one of the brighteft ornaments of France.

The day I returned from Mr. Ifard, my very obliging friend, Mr.
Pringle, propofed to me a trip to the banks of the river Alhley. I availed

myieif

59O TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

myfelf with much fatisfaftion of this opportunity, to enlarge my ac-
quaintance with the interior, and to view the country-feats, in thofe
parts which enjoy the greateft celebrity.

Charlefton being feated on an ifthmus formed by two rivers, under an
angle which is very acute, the road is for the firft feven miles exaclly the
fame, whether you intend to proceed to Georgia, North Carolina, or
any point of South Carolina. We made our firft flop at a fmall planta-
tion, but very lately purchafed by Dr. BARON, a Scotchman, and phyfi-
cian of great celebrity in Charleflon, where, it is averted, he makes thir-
teen thoufand dollars a year. He is a man of extenfive learning, and an
excellent companion. This fmall plantation, named FitteraiTo, confifts of
four hundred acres, and cofl him four thoufand two hundred and eighty
dollars ; it is fituated on a fmall eminence near the river. The fite for
the houfe, for none has hitherto been built, is the mofr. pleafant fpot
which could be chofen in this flat, level country, where the tedious fame-
nefs of the woods is fcarcely variegated by fome houfes, thinly fcattered,
and where it is hardly pomble to meet with a pleafant landfcape. His
garden is feparated from the river by a morafs, nearly drained ; the
whole extent of the northern bank of the river is nearly of the fame de-
fcription. Dr. Baron intends to purchafe this intervening fpace, and to
convert it into meadow-ground. This alteration will improve the pro-
ipecl, without rendering it a charming vifta.

Hence we crofTed the river, and flopped at a plantation, lately purchafed
by Mr. Pringle, the former name of which was Greenville, but which he
has named Sufan's Place, in honour of his lovely wife. This plantation is
likewife without a houfe, that of the former occupier having been con-
fumed by fire ; on the foundation of this building, which remains unhurt,
the new manfion is to be erected, which will be finifhed this fummer.
The plantation, which confifts of four hundred acres, has coft him one
thoufand two hundred and eighty-five dollars. The fituation is much
the fame as that of FitteraiTo, except that the morafTes, covered with
reeds, lie on the other fide. The river flows clofe to the garden, and
the mips, which continually fail up and down the river, may anchor here

with

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCQURT. 5Qf

with great convenience. Yachts of one hundred tons burthen fail as far

as Bacon-bridge, twenty miles from Charletlon.

We made another halt at a houfe, formerly the property of Commo-
dore GILLON, who died in very deranged circumftances, bordering on
insolvency. This plantation, which has accordingly been made over to
the creditors, is in the very worft {late. The Commodore died three years
ago. The houfe is tolerably handfome, and the garden is laid out with a
more refined tafte, and cultivated with more care than gardens generally
are in this country. But the foil is flerile to fuch a degree, that the Com-
modore was obliged to fupply his table with culinary plants, and his {lable
with fodder, from another plantation, which he poffefled three or four
miles farther difbant.

Half a mile from Batavia, the name of the Commodore's planta-
tion, ftands Middleton-houfe, the property of Mrs. MIDDLETON, mo-
ther-in-law to young Mr. Ifard, which is efteemed the moil beautiful
houfe in this part of the country. The out-buildings, fuch as kitchen,
w T am-houfe, and offices, are very capacious. The enfemble of thefe build-
ings calls to recollection the ancient Englifh country- feats. The rooms
in the houfe are fmall, and the outfide, as well as the infide, is badly kept.
A peculiar feature of the fituation is this, that the river, which flows in a
circuitous courfe, until it reaches this point, forms here a wide, beautiful
canal, pointing ftraight to the houfe. The garden is beautiful, but kept
in the fame manner as the houfe ; the foil is very bad, and, in my opi-
nion, the whole plantation is altogether undeferving the celebrity it en-
joys.

We flopped to dine with Dr. DRAYTON, at Drayton-hall. The houfe
is an ancient building, but convenient and goo4 ; and the garden is better
laid out, better cultivated and {locked with good trees, than any I have
hitherto feen. In order to have a fine garden, you have nothing to do
but to let the trees remain {landing here and there, or in clumps, to plant
bumes in front of them, and arrange the trees according to their height.
Dr. Dray ton's father, who was alfo a-phyfician, began to lay out the gar-
den on this principle ; and his fon, who is paffionately fond of a coun-
try

5Q2 TRAVELS IK NORTH AMERICA,

try life, has purfued the fame plan. The profpect from the garden is
like all other views in this part of the country, but the occupier finds it
lefs tedioufly uniform than travellers do. He pointed out to us, and
fpoke much, con amore, of a little hut in the woods, which is fcarcely vi-
fible, and of a turning of the river, yet rio village is to be feen, not the
fmalleft eftates, nay no huts. All South Carolina contains fcarcely
five or fix villages, if four or five compact houfes deferve this name.
The planter refides, throughout the whole country, in the midft of his
negroes. It is a matter of general cenfure, that Charles II. divided this
country among three men, without confidering that, divided as it is at
prefent, perhaps among fifteen or twenty thoufand people, it is yet far
from procuring the ftate and fbciety at large the advantages, which it
might produce. Every one works with his own negroes ; he has no op-
portunity of hiring others, as every one has full employment for his flaves,
and ftands in need of many hands for little work. In regard to the north-
ern ftates, the period may be determined with fome degree of certainty,
when the whole country, which has been wrefted from the Indians, wilt
be cleared ; but not the leail idea can be formed how it will be poffible
in South Carolina to clear only double the quantity of land, which is at
prefent under cultivation. This obfervation, however, applies merely to
the lower part of South Carolina, for the country on the other fide of the
mountains is inhabited by white people, who work, as every where elfe,
and whofe number, it is aflerted, increafes yearly by new coloniits, who
are emigrating thither.

On our journey we met a drove of negroes (you cannot ufe a more
proper term), who were fent from Cambridge to the market of Charlef-
ton. Their mafter, an advocate of Cambridge, one of the diftricl:s of the
ftate, has relinquimed his plantation, to employ his money in fome other
branch of bufmefs. Planters of fmall fortunes do this very often $ and
from the high price of negroes it is at prefent done more frequently than
at other times. They were about one hundred in number, men, women,
and children. The fale of the hufband is not neceflarily connected with
that of the wife, nor is the purchafer of the mother obliged to buy the

child,

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOUfcT. 5f)3

child fuckling on her breaft. The advantage of the buyer is the only
binding law.

That part of the foreft, which I did not traverfe, on my way to
Mr. Ifard, abounds alfo, it is faid, with trees and bufhes. Two fpecies
of the forrel tree, (an drome da, Linn.) the azalea, the mow-drop tree
or fringe tree (chionantJius, Linn.) ; honey-fuckle with red bloffoms,
which grows in a fwampy foil ; the faffafras ; and the myrtle of which
green candles are made. The berries are boiled in water ; the flibflance,
which fwims on the furface, is the oily matter or tallow. A bufhel of
berries yields eight pounds of candles, which coft twenty cents. The red
paria, or Carolina horfe-chemut tree, which, when inoculated on a com-
mon chefnut grows up in Europe to a very high tree, is here a ihrub of a
middling fize.

To feveral trees adheres a yellow grey mofs, which hangs feveral feet
down, like a beard, and is known by the name of Spanljli beard. It re-
tains the fame colour, both in winter and fummer, and bears fmall blue
flowers in fpring. It clings efpecially to oaks and elms ; plantains, ma-
ples, cucumber trees, and pines are generally free from it. This mofs in-
jures only the beauty of the trees, but alters neither their growth nor
leaves. In gardens which are well kept, it is taken off with iron rakes ;
the negroes frequently pull it off the trees in the woods with their hands,
and fell it to the upholfterers of Charleflon, who fluff with it mat-
trailes and chairs. For the fame purpofe, pretty large quantities of it are
tranfmitted to Philadelphia, New York, and even to the northern ftates ;
for though it conftantly preferves a certain unpleafant fmell, yet it is
much ufed, from its being cheaper than wool or hair. In winter it affords
good food for cattle.

SANDYHILL.

After a refidence of twenty days in Charlefton, I fet out for Georgia.
From the exceflive heat, it becomes neceffary to make this tour before
the beginning of June, in which month the heat grows intolerable ; and
the dangerous difeafes, occafioned by it, fpare but few men, efpecially

4 G flrangers,

5Q4 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

ftrangers, who travel through thefe peftiferous fwamps. I fet out ia
company with Mr. BEAUVOIS, a Frenchman, a botanift, pamonately
fond, of his fcience, and a good, worthy man. In order that we both,
might retain our "full liberty, we hired eaeh a cabriolet, and a little negro.
We purfued the fame road, which I travelled with Mr. Pringle, on my
excurfion to the banks of the Afhley, until we reached the other fide of
this river, that is, ten miles from Charlefton. To this point the road
is much the fame, fand and woods. The fand, however, is not fo deep,
and feems to be more mixed with earth. The woods are equally beau-
tiful, and, for fome miles, the plantations lie more compact. Rice is the
chief article cultivated in this part of the country.

Eight miles after you have crofled the Amley, you pafs an arm of the
river Stono. The bridge, by which you crofs the river, has been built
by General WASHINGTON, who poffefTes an eftate in the neighbourhood.
which, however, is not that on which he refides. The toll is confiderable.
I was obliged to pay a quarter of a dollar for a cabriolet and a horfe ; and
yet the farmer, who takes the toll, pays the General no more than four
hundred and twenty-eight dollars two thirds. This road is, therefore, in
all likelihood, not much frequented ; a fuppofition, which was much
corroborated by the fmall number of travellers we met on our journey.
And yet this is the great Savannah-road, which we did not leave but fix.
miles from the General's eftate.

All the inhabitants of South Carolina are more afraid of the rattle-
fnake^ than thofe of New York and Pennfylvania. Thefe fnakes, it Ihould
feem, are more dangerous here than in the northern ftates ; as in-
ilances are known, of people having died a quarter of an. hour after they
\vere bitten. According to the affertion of the faculty, the bite is
mortal only when a lymphatic veflel has been hurt, becauie in this cafe
the poifon mixes more rapidly with the blood ; every other bite is eafily
cured. The intenfe heat of the climate renders the poi&n more deflruc-
tive than in the northern flates ; for it can hardly be fuppofed, that
among the great number of people who are bitten there, there mould be
none whofe lymphatic vefTels. were injured, and yet none are known to

have-

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

have died of the bite. The juice of pJ ant ago -vtrginiana, Linn, or the root
and branches of mahuba bruifed, are the remedies moil commonly ap-
plied. Either of thefe plants is fufficient, but they are deemed more ef-
ficacious when they are applied jointly. A tobacco leaf fteeped in rum/
or a fingle leaf of one of the above plants, takes off the pain and fwelling.
CESAR, a negro, difcovered this means in South Carolina ; he proved its
efficacy to the AfFembly of the States, in 1780, by caufmg a rattle-fnake
to bite him ; and obtained for this arcanum his liberty,- and a penfion of
one hundred guineas a year. The rattle-fnakes are as peaceful' in Caro-
lina, as they are in the north ; they never bite but on being touched.
However great the fear of thefe makes may be in this country, yet they
are not, it mould feem, very frequent, as in this cafe the planters would
undoubtedly, from motives of felf-intereft, furnim their Haves with the
fame thick worfted fpatterdafh.es, which in the northern Hates render the
bite harmlefs, by abforbing the poifon ; and which, for this reafon, are
there in general ufe, inftead of fuffering the negroes to work barefoot in
the fwamps as well as the woods.

General Wafhington's friends having prevailed upon me to call at the
General's, I did fo ; and from the genteel reception I experienced on his
part, we foon got acquainted. General Washington is of the fame fa-
mily as the Prefident, but they are only diftant relations. He fcrved in
the war of the revolution, and is generally refpected. He is now one of
the mofl opulent planters, and pofTefles from four to five hundred flaves,
by whole number wealth is jitftfy eftimated in South Carolina, as it is
through their labour that riches are amafled in this country. The infor-
mation which 1 obtained from him, in regard to the culture of rice, ap-
pears to me complete, yet I mall not infert it in my journal, until it be
corroborated, and rendered ftill more perfect by the accounts of other
planters. I mall, therefore, here only obfervc, 1 . That the General's rice
fields are irilan d fwamps ; 2. the General fows one bufhel arid a half of
rice on an acre; 3. the medium produce of an acre is two barrels of
rice ; 4. every negro cultivates four or four acres and a half, befides two
or three acres of provt/tvn-, 5. by his calculation a third only "of his nc-

4 G 2 groes

5gQ TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

groes work in the fields, the reft either confift of old people, children,
and fick, or are employed about the hpufe ; 6. the number of negroes in-
creafes every year by a twentieth; 7. every negro earns annually, all ex-
pences being deducted, about two hundred and fifty-feven dollars ; but
the rice which, prior to the war, was fold for two dollars and a half, coils
now fix or feven dollars and a half; 8. the expence for a negro, includ-
ing duty, board, clothing, and medicines, he eftimates from twelve to
thirteen dollars; Q. he intends to creel: a mill, to fave the trouble of
grinding and fifting, which is generally done in the plantations by hard
labour.

Thefe mills fave confiderable time and work ; the negroes are relieved
from the moft painful toil, and able to work more in the fields. Another
great advantage is, that the rice is more regularly hufked, which caufes-a
confiderable difference in the produce. An able hufker delivers nineteen
parts of large rice, and one of rice-duft ; but an indifferent workman only
ten. Rice-duft, or fmall rice, that is, fuch as is too much ground, is not
marketable, or fetches only half the price of good rice.

By all the obfcrvations which I have been able to collecl:, the culture of
rice is in an improving Hate ; the befl proof of which is the greater num-
ber of furrows in a given fpace. The planters had formerly only fifty-
five in one acre and a quarter, inftcad of fixty-five or feventy, which are
made at prefent, without the leaft prejudice to the fertility of the foil, or
the richnefs of the ears. Another improvement concerns the mode of
watering the fwamps. Upon the whole, the planters, more enlightened.
on their true intereft, feem determined to perfect the culture of rice by
all poffible means. The rice, from this plantation, is tranfported twelve
miles in carts, and frequently the diffcance from the next creek is fcill
greater. The planters are now raifing a fum by fubfcriptioii, for the
conftru&ion of a canal, w:hich is to crofs the fwamps, and on which the
rice may, without the leaft difficulty, be conveyed to Charlefton. This
canal is to be ten miles in length, and the expence is eftimated at thirty-
eight or forty thoufand dollars. 1 affifted at a meeting of the commiffioners,
relative to the beft means of conftrucling it. For this purpofe it has been

propofed^

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 5Q7

propofed, cither to caufe every planter to work at the canal with a certain
number of negroes, proportionate to the greater or lefs diftance of his
plantation from the canal to the extent of his fwamps, or the number of
his flaves, or to charge one planter with the conftruclion of the whole ca-
nal, and make every planter contribute to the expence in the above pro-
portion. Good planters are of the latter opinion, becaufe the adoption
of the former would leilcn the number of their workmen, and, of confe-
quence, their gain. The meeting deliberated on thefe queftions, but
came to no determination.. That one iingle planter mould be able to
undertake this work, may be explained by the circumftance, that there
are many bad planters, who let their negroes at a high price. The meet-
ing terminated in a dinner, like all iimilar meetings in England, with this
difference only, that this dinner was given, not in a good tavern, but in a
miferabk inn., where, from the ruinous ftate of the flair- cafe, the guefts
w T ere under the neceffity of working up their way to the dining-room by-
the aid of a ladder.. It was a cold dinner,, and the liquors ferved up were
rum, brandy, and geneva, which the gentlemen of the meeting quaffed, as>
if they had been the moft delicious champagne. The General, whofe turn-
It was to entertain- the company, had provided the whole dinner. The
culture of rice will undoubtedly be greatly increafed'by the conftrucHon
of this canal. By General Wafhington's account, as many fwamps remain^
Itill uncultivated as are under cultivation.

His own plantations are all iituated in the vicinity of his maniion,
without joining each other. One director has the fuperintendance over
all the plantations, and under him fpecial infpe&ors are appointed for*
every plantation. He cultivates two hundred acres with Indian corn or
potatoes; the average produce is from twelve to fifteen bufhels of Indian
corn per acre.

The rice-planters cultivate no more Indian corn and potatoes, than
they want for their own confumption, and that of their negroes. By
cultivating more, they would, in their opinion, wafte their time in a left
profitable labour ; and many planters would rather purchafe all their
provifion, than raife it in their, own fields, were not the carriage fo very
expenfive.

All

TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

All the planters keep great numbers of oxen, cows, and pigs, which pro-
cure their food eafily, and without the leaft expence, in the large forefts,
which belong to the plantations. Horfes are alfo frequently turned into
the woods ; but the true amateurs of horfes, many of whom are found
among the planters, fend them rather to graze on a field, which the year
before was fown with Indian corn and rice, and on which the fpe-
cies of grafs, called crab grafs, grows in great plenty. In woods, where
the grafs of the preceding year is not entirely confumed, and where this
grafs might {rifle the new growth, it is burnt at the beginning of fpring,
and the young grafs thrives better than it otherwife would do.

The price of fwamps is here from twenty-one to forty-two dollars an
acre. The fituation in regard to the watering of the fw amps occafions
the difference in their price. Uplands coft from five to fix dollars an"
acre, but are feldom fold. Indian corn coils one dollar and a half the
bufhel, a cow from fix to nine dollars, and a yoke of oxen forty dollars.

General Walhington is one of the planters of Carolina, who, in order not
to relinquim to the merchants of Charlefton the great profits on the fale
of rice, have tranfmitted it themfelves to England. The refults of this
operation are not yet known. All the planters are highly pleafed with the
high price of rice, yet the moft prudent of them adopt not a more expen-
five way of living, but convert their gains into capital. They are fond of
refiding on their plantations, and thus fave much of their houfehold ex-
pence. Yet you muft be accuftomed to fuch a refidence to be pleafed
with it. Not the leaii variety, as to foil and culture ; furrounded on all
fides with mud and water ; few or no neighbours ; and in addition to
thcfe unpleafant circumftances, the planters are deprived of the greateft
pleafure of cultivators, to fee every thing grow in their fields. In the
month of June, when the fwamps are watered for the firft. time, the
planters retire for four months into the town, for fear of the peftiferous
effluvia, and during this time the rice ripens and is mowed. The white
director of the plantation, who remains on the fpot, muft the firft fum-
rner pay for this refidence either with his life, or at leaft with a dreadful
fit of illnefs ; and, fhould he rurvive this, yet he is every iummer attacked

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIAXCOURT. 5QQ

by a fimilar difeafe at leaft for a fortnight. The negroes fufFer not from
all thefc noxious exhalations.

In the General is united to his other excellent qualities that of a bene-
volent matter to his negroes. They are not overburthened with labour,
and they are at liberty to cultivate for themfelves as much land as they
choofe.

Mrs. . Wafliington fecms lefs pleafed with a plantation-life than her
hufband, whom bufmefs frequently calls away, and whom a pipe or a
good dinner often retains in the place, w r hither he is obliged to go.

The General's plantation lies in St. Paul's pariih, which contains fif-
teen fquare miles. Although four or five remains of churches are to be
found in this parifh, yet there cxifts in facT; but one, where a congrega-
^tion can alTemble. The reft were burnt down in the courfe of the war,,
and they are in this country not very anxious to build them up again.

The road from Sandyhill to Dr. PRINGLE'S, brother of my friend
Pringle of Charlefton, is as fandy as that which we have travelled, but
the fmall bridges, you frequently meet with, grow worfe and worfe.
We crofTed in a ferry the river Edifto or Pompon, which rifes two hun-
dred miles higher up the country, and on which the timber from the;
forefts of further Carolina, that are one hundred miles diftant from
Charlefton, is floated to this city.

Dr. Pringle refides in the townfhip of St. Bartholomew, and cultivates,
of nineteen hundred acres, which compofe his eftate, two hundred acres
of fwamps, and forty acres high land. If he had more hands to difpofe
of, he might cultivate more ;. but he pofTefles only a fmall fortune ; and
planters thus circumftanced can very feldom raife the necefTary money
for the conftruclion of machinery. He has explained to me the whole
procefs of the culture and preparation of the rice ; and the information I
received from him on this fubjecl:, agrees fo perfectly with that which
I have colle&ecLin three or four other different places, that I think my-
felf fully informed on this head. Rice is commonly fown about this
time ; fome have already done it, and others commence in a fort-
night.

The

6OO TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

The country is full of that fpecies of crocodile, which by naturulifh
are called caimans. We faw a fmall one at the General's, which had
been killed by his huntfman. On a walk we took with Dr. Pringle, we
faw two, which lay afleep near a large fwampy ditch ; both were of con-
fiderable fize, and one meafured from the head to the extremity of the tail

upwards of twelve feet. We obferved them perfectly at our eafe, at the
diftance of twelve paces. The noife we made, after five or fix minutes,
having roufed them from their Deep, they jumped into the water. This
animal very feldom touches a man, however near it may be to him ; it
conftantly flees, when on land ; bat in the water it is faid to be fiercer.
A few years ago, a caiman bit off the leg of a w : oman, while fhe was
bathing. It more frequently attacks dogs, which at times it carries off in
the prefence of men. Sometimes, when hounds in purfuit of a flag
fwim through the w^ater, they feize both hounds and deer, and pull
them down to the bottom, without their ever appearing again. The
fcales, w r ith which the caiman is coated, render it invulnerable, unlefs the
wound be inflicted in the interfaces of the fcales, or at the extremities.

The rattle-fnake is as much dreaded in this country as the caiman.
No pcrfon has of late died of its bite, which proves frequently mortal to
dogs, cows, and harfes, although -cafes -of its being cured are more nume-
rous. On the whole, the number of thefe noxious animals appears very
inconfiderable. By Dr. Pringle's account, who has feen many of them,
they are here much larger at the fame age, than in the northern ftates.
Thofe which have come within rny obfervation, are of the fame fize as in
Geneffee, but of more vivid colours. The bite of the w^ater rattle-fnake
is alfo poifonous, but lefs fo than that of the land. The derivation of
its name is not known ; for this animal has neither rattles, nor is it fur-
niflied with the two fangs, which render the rattle-fnake fo extremely
dangerous. There are thofe, who imagine, that it is the female of the
rattle-fnake, while in the opinion of others it forms a diftinct fpecies ; but
all this rells on fuppofition, as in fact do many things in natural hiftory.
The black ferpent is pretty common in Carolina ; it is very long, and pur-
fues thofe who attack it ; but its bite is harmlefs.

Panthers

BY THE DtTKE BE LA KOCHEFOUCAULT LlANCOURT. <30l

Panthers are fomctimes found in the woods, but they are few in num-
ber ; the aflertion of their having attacked men is contradicted. Tiger-
cats, wolves, and foxes are here frequent, and fometimes cany off fo\vls,
fheep, and calves from places contiguous to inhabited buildings. But
the planters, who aflemble their live-ftock twice a year, to count the
young, and pick out thole which they intend to fatten, charge lefs the
wild beafts with the deficiency they difcover, than the petty planters,
negroes, and other workmen. The winter is here never fo fevere, as to
prevent the cattle from remaining in the woods, where they find plenty
of food ; fome of the planters feed them with the ftraw of Indian-corn
and rice, but moft kill them, as they come out of the woods. Mr.
Pringle, who keeps from feventy to eighty negroes, and, of confequence,
is no great planter, has from two to three hundred head of cattle.

To judge from the acquaintance 1 have made among the planters, their
eonverfation is not very intereiting. Their time is chiefly taken up by
the chacc and the table, by gaming and doing nothing, the few excepted,
whofc parents were fufficiently rich to fend them to Europe for educa-
tion and inflrucTiion.

Mr. Pringle holds a diilinguimed rank among well-bred farmers. He
finimed his education and ftudied medicine in Europe ; for fome time he
followed this profeffion, but now practifes it only from motives of com -
paffion, to preferve his independence. He is in every reipecl a worthy
man,* amiable and communicative, plain, and fo happy, that his equals
are but feldom found. He is an excellent rnafler to his negroes, and
afTerts, againft the opinion of many others, that the plantations of mild
and indulgent matters thrive moft, and that the negroes are more faithful
and laborious. He is beloved by his flaves. The cultivated part of his
plantation is in the beft order, and the number of his negroes encreafes
yearly by a tenth.

In the neighbourhood are a few very fmall plantations, the property of
white people, who keep no flaves, and who of fifty acres, which form
the neceflary qualification of an elector, cultivate about twenty with
their oxen. This clafs is poor, and, by what I have been told, fcems not

4 H to

(502 TRAVELS IX NORTH AMERICA,

to deferve much refpect. But thefe planters evidently prove, that even
in this fcorching climate white people can perform the labour, tor which
it is generally deemed neceilary to employ flaves ; though it muft be
confefled, that they neither work much in the hotteft feafon of the year,
nor toil in the fwamps. White people may perhaps not be able to ac-
cuftom themfelves to the neceflary labours in the fwamps, yet it is of
importance to know, that they are capable of working in the upper coun-
try at the culture of grain, potatoes, and turnips. From this facl; hopes
may be entertained, that the large trad: of ground which feparates the
fwamps from the upper country, and the fertility of the foil of which is
apparent from the numerous trees it bears, will be cultivated.

Mr. Pringle prefented my fellow-traveller, Mr. Beauvois, with a petri-
fie4 oyftcr, found in the vicinity of Columbia, one hundred and twenty
miles from the fea. Its length amounts to eighteen inches, Engliih mea-
iure. From the circumftance, that in that part of the country there is a
considerable ftratum of fimilar petrified fubftances, it becomes highly
probable, that this whole trad: was once covered by the fea, and that the
ridge of mountains, which runs from Florida to Canada, formed its ori-
ginal limit.

In the townfhip of St. Paul a free negro, who from his early youth care-
fully ftored up the produce of his induftry, poileffes a plantation of two
hundred flaves. Inftances of this kind are not rare, I underftand, in
St. Domingo ; but fuch a plantation is here a phenomenon. The feve-
rity excepted, with which this emancipated flave treats his negroes, his
conduct is faid to be regular and good. His name is PIN'DAIM, and he
is eighty-five years old. He has married a white woman, and has given
his daughter, a mulatto, to a white man.

RUPELMONDE, ON THE RIVER BEAUFORT.

As long as the roads continue of the fame quality, as I have hitherto
found them, fmce I left Charleston, I mall not make any mention of
them. 1 am not yet tired of thefe fuperb forefts ; but on traverfmg them,
you cannot but regret, that a foil, which bears fuch trees, ihould not pro-
duce

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 603

ducc any thing elfc, and that nineteen twentieths of that foil may, per-
haps, remain for ever uncultivated in Carolina, which might be fown
with oats, rye, and barley, and thus remove the unhealthinefs of the cli-
mate, and the poverty of the country. Nature invites this country to a
high degree of profperity, the non-attainment of which can only be
owing to the neglecl and mifconducl of men.

We travelled in company with Mr. ROBERT PR INGLE, a worthy bro-
ther of John Pringle of Charlefton ; he intended to introduce us to his
numerous friends at Beaufort. The plantations along the road are few
in number and infignificant. The people were every where bulled in
fowing rice.

I had a letter to Mr. THOMAS FULLER of Sheldon. He was not at
home, but his lady received us with great kindnefs. She is very hand-
fome, and endowed with excellent qualities.

It is frequently the fate of travellers to contract obligations ; this we
experienced the fame evening, in regard to a lady who refides on the
coaft of the Ifland of Beaufort. The veflel, intended to carry us over,
was too fmall for our two cabriolets and horfes. We were, therefore,
obliged to wait ; and feeing us walking up and down the more, -me in-
vited us to ftep into her houfe, and at length offered us a night's lodging.
Mrs. RAPPEL refides with her daughter in the neighbourhood of the
ferry, which belongs to her. The mother was, fifteen years ago, the firft
beauty of Charlefton ; and even yet, though thirty-five years old, and
frequently indifpofed with nervous difeafes, ilie is handfome and amiable. -
She generally refides in Charlefton, whither flie returns at the beginning
of June. Whatever praife may be due to our European gentility, yet in
no part of the globe fo much hofpitality is praclifed as in America, or
can it any where be better exercifed, than in South Carolina.

We this day crofted, by a very bad bridge, the river Cornbabee, which
feparatcs the diftrict of Charlefton from that of Beaufort. The only re-
markable thing we met on this journey was a large caiman, which lay
dying on a ditch. He was wounded in the head with an axe, and was
at a greater diftance from the water than they generally are. We dif-

4 H 2 patched

TRAVELS IN NOIITH AMERICA,

patched him, and found that he was eleven feet and half in length,
Thefe animals, whole afpect is as frightful as the accounts of their nerce-
nefs, are no objects of fear with the inhabitants of this country ; travel-
lers, therefore, have either exaggerated their accounts, or are more timid
than the inhabitants. They are killed, wherever they are met with, and
extremely numerous in the frelh waters of Carolina and Georgia.

The ftate of Georgia, the worn: regulated part of the Union, is a com-
pound of natives of all European countries, and of sll the other parts of the
United States. Its recent hiftory is a thTue of continual difputes among
the inhabitants as well as with other "dates, without the leaft mark of
public fpirit. This moral picture mult neceflarily admit of exceptions ^
I have myfelf, during my fhort refidence in Savannah, found men,
who would do honour to any country. But the exceptions, I apprehend,
are few.

As late as the laft feffion, a more regular adminifbration of juftice has
been eftablimed ; but it is not yet in force, nor will it be fo for feme time
to come. The feffions are not regularly held ; the empannclling of the
juries meets with great difficulties, and yet the bufmefs of a lawyer is -one
of the moft lucrative profeffions.

Agriculture is much the fame as in South Carolina. Cotton is culti-
vated by all the inhabitants, who confider it as a principal branch of their
trade, without paying any mare attention to the beft mode of cultivat-
ing it, than they do in South Carolina. Candid planters allow, that they
are far from having attained the higheft degree of perfection, the attain-
ment of which will, in my opinion, fooner be effe&ed in South Carolina
than Georgia. The machinery for cleaning the cotton is here more fre-
quently employed than in Carolina ; but the planters, convinced of the
difadvantages attending it, relinquifh the ufe'tif it, and cxpe 61- another
from the Bahama iilands, which compleats tke operation footer, without
injuring the down.

The back country, which begins behind Augufta, is far more popu-
lous, and exports tobacco, Indian-corn, rye, "and wheat. Slaves, as is.
afTerted, are more numerous on the other fide ':'pf Augufla ; than, on this

fide

BV THE DUKE DE tA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOtfRT. 005

fide. There is no planter, who keeps a considerable number of negroes ;
but the fmalleft planters buy fome as fbon as they can, leave off doing
any work themfelves, and grow lazy, lor which the matters of flaves ge-
nerally feel a ftrong difpofition, encouraged by the heat of the climate
and the habits and manners of the country-

The law of the land permits the importation of negroes, and this is the
only ftate, the ports of which are not yet fhut up againft this odious trade.
They are not, however, imported in great numbers in Savannah ; in the
courfe of laft year arrived about fix or feven hundred; during the firft four
months of this year four hundred and fifty have been landed, and two or
three thoufand more are expected. Savannah employs no fhip in the
ilave-trade ; but it is carried on in mips belonging to New England, and
efpecially to Rhode-Blanch The cargo, however, is conftantly carried to
Savannah, without the leaft certainty of a profitable fale, on account of
the fcarcity of money which generally prevails, and becaufe foreign mer-
chants are as little fond of giving credit to thofe of Savannah, as thefe
are of crediting the planters. For the ible purpofe of cultivating fuch
fwamps, as are fitted for cultivation, ten fuccemVe years from eight to
ten thoufand negroes mould be annually imported, A third of thofe
who are imported, are, in fpite of the prohibition, every year fmuggled
into Carolina. Thefe African negroes coft three hundred dollars each ;
thofe of the Gold-coaft are the beft of all, and next to them are thofe of
Congo and Ibo. The latter are the beft labourers, but frequently perim
W 7 ithin the firft two years..

I witnefied an auction of negroes in Savannah ; and although it \vas a
mocking fight, yet I was not fo affected by it as when I fawthe one hun-
dred negroes in Charlefton driven to market. Thefe were grown per-
fons ; but the others were children, unacquainted with the horrors of
their fituation.

A'nioft all the land in Georgia is good ; but different in quality accord-
to its fituation'; for. 'at. the diftance of one hundred miles from the
continues riiing as far as the Apalachian mountains, which are con-
nected with the chain of mountains that interfects the whole of North

America*

000 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

America, proceeding from Canada, difappears at the Gulf of Mexico ;
and, under the name of Tapinambourg, rifes again in South America,
after having firft fhewn itfelf in the Antilles : at leaft this is the opinion
of feveral naturalifts. The lands appear better here than thofe fimilarly
fituated in Carolina ; and from the Apalachians to the Miffifippi they
appear ftill better.

None of the ftates is better watered than Georgia. The rivers Sa-
vannah, Oconee, Alatamaha, and St. Mary which divides it from Eaft
Florida, run through it from eaft to weft ; and in their courfe receive a
great number of creeks and fmaller rivers, by means of which the pro-
duels of the inland parts, if they were inhabited, might eafily be con-
veyed to the fea. The great rivers Appalachicola, Mobile, Peare, Palca-
cola, and Governanti, which interfecl: Weft Florida, and empty them-
felves into the Gulf of Mexico, have their fource in Georgia. The
river Miffifippi, by which it is bounded on the weft, rmift, fince the laft
treaty with Spain, be a certain and extenfive means of difpofmg of all its
produces, which might be fent to the Antilles. All the parts of the coaft
fouth of Savannah are, without comparifon, more healthy than Sa-
vannah, or than the coafts of Virginia or the two Carolinas ; becaufe they
lie nearer the trade- winds, and partake of the advantage which thefe af-
ford. The climate, which in the interior of Georgia is not fo hot as in
Carolina, is much milder in winter. There is feldom any fnow here,
and where there is, it foon melts away. Except in the fwampy parts,
fewer difeafes prevail here than in Carolina; and frefh fprings of water
are to be met with every where.

To thefe advantages may be added the facility in paffing between the
continent and the iilands that lie along the coaft, the communication
with all of them being perfectly fafe, and there being no occafion to go
out into the open fea. Thefe iflands are for the moft part fpacious and
healthy : they have an excellent foil, which yields very fine cotton, al-
moft all kinds of corn, and abundance of live-oak, which is of fo much
value in {hip-building.

In that part of Georgia which borders on Weft Florida, there are

many

BY THE DUKE DE LA. ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 6*07

many fields of rice along the rivers ; particularly on the banks, and be*
tween the two branches of the Mobile. Oaks of every kind, hickories,
faifafras, mulberry and chefnut trees, grow here in the greateft poffible
perfection. There are few live-oaks, arid fcarcely any cypreilcs or cedars.
The white pine grows here only ; the fpruce-fir is feldom fecn. It is
faid that the three branches of the river Alatamaha, with the aland of
St. Simon, which lies facing them, form the bell, deepcft, and fafeft
harbour on the American coaft, below the Chefapeak. Few of the
United States are deftined to greater profperity than Georgia. But there
muft be hands to work this gold-mine ; and their labour muil be ren-
dered valuable by good order, by refpe& for the government, and a due
adminiftration of the laws. Thefe objects will certainly be accompliilied
fome time or other, but in the prefent ftate of things, it is difficult to fix
upon the period when it ihall come to pafs. The inhabitants of the
baciv country are more idle, drunken, and diforderly, than thofe who re-
fidc in the back parts of .any of the United States. It is only to the go-
ve n'nent that thefe vices can be imputed. Land which produces rice,
and is furnilhed with the buildings rcquifite for its cultivation, fetches,,
when in good condition, from fixty to fixty-five dollars ; and that which
is not fo, fells at feven or eight dollars.

They carry on a trade with Georgia, with deer, otter, and beaver kins.
But the Indians, who fupply them, find a more advantageous and furer
fale in Weft Florida ; and therefore carry all their fkins to Penfacola*
This trade is therefore confined to furs procured by the people of the
back country ; and thefe are inconfiderable in number and value.

The Cherokees, the Chaclaws, and Creeks, who are the moft numerous
and warlike of all the Indian nations, inhabit the borders of Georgia.
Thofe capable of bearing arms are fuppofed to amount to the number of
twelve thoufand, fix thoufand of whom are Creeks. There are about
thirty-five thoufand Indians altogether in Georgia. It is faid that the
Creeks, contrary to the general cafe, are encreafing in numbers. Although
thefe people are held in averfion, and endeavours are made to drive them
beyond the MhTiiippi ; yet it is allowed on all hands, that in the conti-
nual

0*08 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

nual quarrels which they have with the white people on the boundaries,
the latter are in the wrong four times out of five. It is admitted by every-
body, that there cannot be a more vicious fet of people than the whites
who dwell on the boundaries : they rob, murder, and betray the Indians ;
who in return frequently deftroy their perfecutors, together with their
families ; and when they perhaps take a dreadful revenge, they only de-
fend themfelves againft unprovoked attacks : thefe Indians are all as good,
tis generous, and as faithful as thofe of the northern ftates. Even when
they are in the greateft ftate of difhirbance, they live in the utmoft fami-
liarity with the white families who refide amongft them, and who find
more protection from them than from the white borderers : thefc fcalp
their prifoners, as well as the Indians. This conftaiit ftate of petty war-
fare is a new fource of diforder in the ftate.

The State of Georgia, in conjunction with the federal government,
thinks of concluding a general treaty with the Indians, the negociations
for which are to be entered upon in lefs than a month. The confequence
of this treaty will be, that the Indians, in consideration of a fum of mo-
ney, will retire a hundred miles farther back. Meanw r hile the borderers
will purfue them, and will never be restrained, by any treaty, from mak-
ing their unjuft attacks ; as long as there is no government to reftrain
them by rigorous punimments, and of .courfe to prevent the reprifals of
the Indians.

Thefe Indians cultivate the land with more care than thofe in the
northern ftates. They keep fuch negroes as they carry away in their
petty w^ars, or thofe who defert to them. They treat them as ilaves, but
behave well to them ; are fparing of them in labour, and mare with them
their own food. I have been allured, that there .are fome Indians who
have no fewer than thirty negroes : thefe carry the produce of their
husbandry to Penfacola, by which means Georgia is deprived of confider-
able advantages.

I have heard an anecdote of one of thefe Indians, which, I believe,
give a clear idea of their manner of thinking. The Creeks had oc-
to afTemble fome years ago concerning a treaty with the United

States :

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

States : one TAL ASKING, a famous warrior amongft them, who had al-
ways declared himfelf a friend to the United States, oppofed every act
of hoftility againft them, and was consequently well known, came to
New York, the place of meeting, after the Aiicmbly had already been
opened. He there found, that one MALASKY, who had diftinguifhed
himfelf by his inveteracy againft the United States, and by the mifchiefs
he had done them, was well treated, and even carerTed by the American
commiffioners. This circumftance raifed his indignation to fuch a de-
gree, that, although he was himfelf well-treated, he left the AfTembly
after two days, and became an enemy to the States. This indigna-
tion has its foundation in a ftrong fentiment of honour, which muft
make civilized ftates blum for the falfehood and depravity of their po-
licy.

The avaricious Georgians are not contented with grafping at the coun-
try of the Indians; many of them look on Florida already as their law-
ful property ; and think that by a war, they would eafily gratify this am-
bition of theirs ; as the fouthern ftates are much more populous than this
province. It is to be confidered how little Spain can be intereftcd in thig
fmall tract of country, how many difputes it may occafion, and what a
natural boundary the Gulf of Mexico would form for the United States^
It cannot but be wifhed that Spain, with a fort of political magnanimity,
may give up this country, w T hich is not an advantageous poileffion to her,
and which in all probability fhe may not be able to retain.

The law concerning negroes is milder in Georgia than in Carolina,
where it is of Englifh origin. But here it is thirty years younger, and
therefore breathes that humanity, which characterifes the latter half of
the prefent century. It appears to me in fome refpects as mild as any
law can ever be when flavery is permitted. It is faid that there are few
fevere mafters here : but the negroes are worfe cloathed and fed than in
Carolina ; and even there their cloathing and food are not remarkably
good.

Until 17Q4 Augufta was the chief town of Georgia: next to Savan-
nah it is the largeft, and the only place that carries on an inland trade-

4 I Louifville,

6lO TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

Uouifville, the prefent feat of government, confiils only of about thirty
houfes.

Savannah is famous for the defeat of M. d'Ettaing in 1 778, when he
made an unfuccefsful attack upon it. After every thing I have heard
from eye-witnefles concerning that affair, 1 am pofitive, that M. d'Ef-
taing might have furprifed the town without waiting for his heavy artil-
lery : 1. As the town, at his arrival, was defencelefs. 2. That he mould
have properly finimed the regular fiege, as he had once entered upon it.
3. That M. d'E^taing would certainly have rendered himfelf mailer of
the town, if, after the firft fummons, he had not granted General PRE-
VOST an armiilice of two or three days ; during which time the latter
had procured reinforcements from Beaufort, and doubled his means of
defence. 4. He w r ould have fucceeded in the attack, if, inftead of direct-
ing all his force againft one ftrong redoubt, he had penetrated through
the other fcattered works which were ill defended. The EnsTim in that

cafe would have been forced to quit their entrenchments, and an en-
gagement would have enmed, in which the French and Americans,
on account of their numbers, would have been victorious. The in-
habitants recollect with gratitude the pains which M. d'Eflaing had
taken to deliver them from the hands of the Englim. They praife the
valour of the French ; but lament that M. d'Eftaing, on granting the
armiftice of twenty-four hours, refufed to let General Prevoil's lady leave
the town.

The fever which I caught in Savannah obliged me, againft my will,
to relinquifh an excurfion into the back country of Georgia and Carolina,
which I had previously planned*

I departed with pteafiire from this town, the climate, and fituation of
which on a burning fand render it fo uncomfortable ; and where the fpirit
of diforder and anarchy muft difguft every man to whom liberty is dear,
and who knows that it can be maintained only by refpecling and obeying
tke laws,.

SPANISH

BY THE DUKE BE LA ROCHEF00CAULT LIANCOURT. Gil

SPANISH SETTLEMENTS IN NORTH AMERICA.

I believe that this is the proper place to give the accounts which I col-
lected in Carolina and Georgia concerning the Spanifh fettlemeiits, that
border on the United States. The river Apalachicola, runs between Eaft
and Weft Florida : the MhTrfippi divides Weft Florida from Louifiana.

Eaft Florida is thinly inhabited. When it belonged to England, feve-
ral rice-plantations were eftablifhcd on a large fcale, and with fuccefs.
There are alfo plantations of cotton, which are very productive. It ap-
pears, that a great quantity of land is applied to thefe ufes, and that even
pine-barrens might be improved for this purpofe, though many inhabi-
tants think, that the fandy foil would not be able to produce cotton. Moft
of the planters left Eaft Florida after the peace of 1 783, when it was ceded
by England to Spain. Some trifling culture is however yet carried on
by a few Englifh families, who have not left the country. Few Spanim
families live in Florida. The beft rice-land lies north of the province,
near the river St. Mary. There are alfb good fwamps on the banks of
the rivers towards the fouth, efpecially on the river St. John. This river
runs along the coaft, parallel with the fea, from fouth to north ; or rather
confifts of feveral lakes. It is navigable from one end to the other ; and
of courfe can carry away the wood which grows here in abundance, and
which can eafily float into it on the fmall creeks. The trees that grow in
Florida are live-oak, red and white oaks, cyprefs, hickory, red and white
cedar, and the cucumber-tree : they are all very large. The river St.
John can be even united with the fea, on the fouth -weft coaft of the
pcninfula, in Charlotte Bay, by means of the river Coloofehatche, and of
a canal eight or ten miles in length, which would run through the
marfhes. By thefe means a direct paiTage from the Atlantic into the Gulf
of Mexico would become practicable and cafy ; arid the wood which
ihould not be ufed in Florida, might foon be conveyed to the iflands.

St. Auguftin is a very fmall town, which has but one ftreet. It lies on
a better foil than Charleston or Savannah. VefTels drawing more than ten
feet water cannot anchor in the harbour. The tide rifes only to thirteen

4 I 2 or

(3l2 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

or fourteen feet. The climate is healthier than that of Charlefton, on
account of the trade-winds, which conftantly cool the air. It carries
on its principal trade with Savannah and Charkfton, to wilich places it
fends the products of the Havannah, which are depofited here. It is fup-
ptied with Englim goods from the Bahama Iflands.

The Lemencluka Indians, a fmall tribe of Creeks, have a village of
about one hundred houfes in Tufcavilla on Poly creek. They have fome
fmaller ones on the fea-coaft, on the other fide of Eaft Florida. The fhore
of Weft Florida rifes perpendicularly over the fea, and is healthy. It is
confidently faid that the land at the mouth of the Miffifippi has in-
creafed to the diftance of twelve or fifteen miles, fince the firft fettlement
of the French in that place. This land, however, which is becoming
firmer every year, is not yet fufficiently fecure. South-weft winds ge-
nerally blow here. Hurricanes feldom happen ; and they come from
the fouth-eaft.

The land between the Miffifippi and Betekfoha is excellent. The
natural products are a fort of large reeds, hickory, cedar, and cyprefs,
which are very large : it has excellent meadows, .which yield very ftrong
grafs ; and it is fit for every kind of cultivation. From Betekfoha to
Pearl-river the land is not fo good. It has the fame kind of trees, with
oaks of different forts ; but few live-oaks. From Pearl-river to Eaft
Florida, the country confifts of a rich land, which might be cultivated to
advantage. It produces many trees, particularly live-oak, which grow
here to a very large iizc.

I give this fketch by way of introduction, in order to be better under-
ftood. It is, upon the whole, correct ; though not fufficiently diftinct in
every particular. All the land that lies on the rivers is of the beft
quality.

There are many habitations along the Miffifippi. Some French fami-
lies ftill dwell in the vicinity of the Bay of St. Louis. There are con-
fiderable fettlements along the river Mobile, at the Bay of Penfacola,
and on the other rivers. Although thefe provinces have belonged to
Spain for thirteen years, yet there are very few Spaniards here. Such is

alfo

BY THE DUKE DE f IIOCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 6 13

alfo the cafe with Louillana. Except the military, cuftom-houfe officers,
and perfons holding places under government, there are not perhaps a
hundred Spanifli families throughout this large plain. The bulk of the
inhabitants confifts chiefly of French, who had fettled here originally,
and of Germans, who have remained here, after the ceffion of the coun-
try to Spain. Some French, Englifh, and Spaniih families, are proprie-
tors of lands, but they are few. Almoft all the lands belong to the
Crown, which neither fells nor grants them for a ground-rent, but always
gives them away at pleafure. This power -refts in the hands of the Go-
vernor, who receives money for it, but who infures the pofTeffion only fa
long as he holds his fituation.

There are few monks or priefls in Florida and Louifiana. From every
thing I have heard, religion does not appear to be predominant. It has,
however, fome influence ; and French philofophy would find here many
opponents.

The rivers all flow from north to fouth, and not very rapidly. The
tide comes up a confiderable way into them. VefTels can fail fixty or
feventy miles up Pearl-river. The weftern branch of the river Mobile is
navigable for one hundred miles; and the eaftern two hundred: the
Appalachicola two hundred. All thefe rivers rife in Georgia, where,
with the exception of a few obftruclions, they are navigable.

The harbour of Penfacola is one of the bell in all North America.
The entrance is fafe ; and the water, even at the keys, is always five fa-
thoms deep. At Mobile the water at ebb is ten, and at flood-tide four-
teen feet deep. At New Orleans there is between fourteen and fixteen
feet of water ; but the navigable channel is narrow, and the entrance
difficult. On every part of the coaft there are numbers of fmall bays.

It is not fo hot in Weft Florida as in Carolina, notwithstanding its-
fituation being fo much more foutherly. Between the Miflifippi and
and Mobile intermitting and bilious fevers prevail in autumn. From the
river Mobile to Eaft Florida the country is very healthy.

In many parts of Weft Florida, and particularly in the Natches, which
lie within the territory of Georgia, and to which place the richnefs of

the

TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

.
the foil has invited many inhabitants from Florida, rice, cotton, tobacco,

and indigo, are cultivated. The indigo, which is known by the name
of New Orleans indigo, is of a very good kind; it is inferior to that of
St. Domingo, but much better than that of Carolina. It is faid, that, if
more care were taken in the cultivation of it, and feed brought more
frequently from Guatimala, this indigo would be almoft as good as that
of St. Domingo.

It muft be a matter of furprize, to find that the whole of Weft Flo-
rida, which belongs to Spain, is fupplied with European goods from
England. This, however, is true ; and can only be attributed to the la-
zinefs of the Spaniards. The Crown has granted to two Englim houfes,
one of which trades under the firm of PENTON and ERMER, the exclufive
privilege of fupplying the inhabitants of the country, as well as the Indians,
with European commodities ; which puts into the hands of the Englifh '
the whole of the peltry trade, even in the parts which border on Augufta.
They deal much more honourably in their barter than the Georgians, are
better fupplied with commodities, and, on that account, the Indians rea-
dily trade with them. This privilege does not extend to New Orleans.
Every year fome mips, which fupply the Havannah, come to New Or-
leans, but they bring very inadequate cargoes, fo that the Spanifh fettle-
merits on the Illinois get all their European goods from Montreal.

There is a fact ftill more recent, which points out the bad policy,
whereby the Spaniards give up. all power into the hands of the Englifli.
The Governor of New Orleans has "given to the Englim houfe of TODE
and Co. (who carry on the peltry trade on the other fide of the Miffi-
fippi, below the lakes) the exclufive privilege of trading for fkins with
the Indians, along the left bank of the Miflburi ; by which means the
Englim are in poflcffion of the moft important part of this river, and they
have opened a trade with feveral nations. This privilege has been purchafed
from the Governor of New Orleans for the fum of twenty thoufand
pounds flerling. . From this circumftance an idea may be formed of the
fluggiftmefs and avarice of the Spanifh government and its agents, which
the activity of the Englifh fails not to turn to their profit. It is high time

that

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 6l5

that this country, even for the benefit of Spain, fliould come into the pof-
fcmon of France. Should Spain keep it much longer, England will foon
obtain it. In facl, ilie partly poiTeiles it already, there being feveral Eng-
lifh garrifons ilationcd upon the Spanilh territories along the Miffifippi ;
and the numerous inhabitants of the Indian territory throughout this ini-
menfe diilridl, fo rich in fkins, are unacquainted with any but Englilh
traders. When the Englifh fhall have eftabliflied themfelves Hill more
firmly in this trade, they will become more important, and then the rich
Spaniih lettlements in Mexico will not be long fecure. This opinion,
which to me appears very clear, fliould be eftabliflied beyond a doubt by
Frenchmen, who penetrate farther into the country than I have done;
It is fufficient here to fay, that, contrary to the ailertion of fome Ameri-
cans, the Miffifippi is navigable as far as Kentucky and the Illinois ; and
that the vefTels, which carry the produces of thefe countries to New Or-
leans, may take back European commodities, which, by this means, would
be cheaper than thofe brought from the ports of the Atlantic.

The commercial advantages, which Louifiana holds out to an active
and intelligent nation, are uncommonly great. It might furniih the moft
durable wood of every fort,, for fhip-building and mails. I have been
informed by an engineer, who had been in the Englifh fervice during the
laft w r ar in Florida, and who was defirous of demolishing a fort that had
been built by the French at Penfacola in 1680, that he found the wood
of it as free from injury, and as found as if it had been felled the preced-
ing day ; and that he could make ufe of it all in contracting a ftrongcr
fort. Louifiana could fupply the French colonies with entire houfes in
frame, which will be much wanted there on the return of peace ; and
which might be had at an eafier and cheaper rate from that country than
from the province of Maine, or the North river. They could have fhin-
gles of cyprefs and cedar longer, thicker, and fix times more durable than
thofe of fir, that are brought from the north-eaft part of America,
which are not able to refift the frequent hurricanes that happen in our
iflands, and often, in one night, carry away the roofs of many houfes,
From Louifiana might alfo be brought hemp, flax, and, confcquently,

6 1(5 TRAVELS IX NORTH AMERICA,

ropes and fail-cloth in abundance ; and likewifc tiles, which are already
manufactured in the neighbourhood of New Orleans. They might get
abundance of tar from the firs that grow here in great numbers. Saltpc*
tre, it is aiTerted, may be found in many places ; and there are many lead
and iron mines, the working of which w^ould not be attended with much
difficulty. The rice in Louifiana is very good ; it is cultivated to a con-
fiderable extent near the Miffifippi ; it is even faid that they plant it there
on dry ground. Wheat, Indian corn, and grain of every fort, grows alfo
here in great quantities. The depot to be formed at New Orleans of all
thefe products of the weftern ftates of America would neceilarily fecure
the fupply to the iflands ; and the barter carried on with thefe ftates,
which mould furnim thcmfelves with European goods at New T Orleans,
would form a political connexion, which no nation, to which Louifiana
belonged, ought to neglect. This large colony would fupply the mother
country with finer tobacco than that of Virginia, and with all the fkins
which are now collected by the Englifh companies. In fhort, the produc-
tions of Louifiana, and its trade to Europe lying conilantly open, would
give rife to a barter with the Spanifh colonies, from which it would be
eafy to receive cochineal, log- wood, chocolate, vanilla, tanned leather, Ha-
vannah tobacco, Guatimala indigo, &c. To this lift of productions many
more might be added. But the above articles will ferve to give an idea
of the great refources of Louifiana. Oil and \vine might certainly be
cultivated to great advantage. Finally, the pofleiTion of Louifiana by the
French would fet bounds to the childiih avarice of the Americans, who
wiili to grafp at every thing : an avarice arifmg more from a reftlefs cha-
racter, than from political views, which prevents them from fixing them-
f elves in any new Hate, w r hich injures their real ftrength, and diiturbs
their neighbours. Befides, it muft be confidered, that the United States,
on account of their weaknefs, will always continue more friendly to a na-
tion, that has the power of injuring them, than one that has not, and that
can only offer them advantages. A generous nation will never abufe fucll
a power, which it would feel itfelf interefled in turning to the real ad-
vantage of the United States.

One

KY THE DUKJT. DF: I. \ P.OCHEFOUcAULT l.lANcOURT. 6l7

Cue word .more concerning the Indians. All of thefe, who have had
any dealings with the French, prefer them to any other people. The
French behaved to them with fuch magnanimity, benevolence, and ho-
nour, that the Indians life ftill to fay to the Englifh " You are our
brothers ; the French were our fathers." This fentiment M not yet ex-
tinguifhcd, although it is ib long fmce they had any tranfactions with
each other. At prefent they almoft all defend on England ; but upon
the flightefl favourable occurrence, they might eafily be gained over to
France. This is the prevailing fentiment among the Creeks and Chero-
kccs, who call Florida the French country.

The Spanifh government in Louifiana and Florida is not fo intolerant
as ufual, but is deficient in ftrcngth, as the military force confifts of
no more than three or four thoufand men, who occupy fome forts
from St. Louis to New Orleans. Indians and Americans are on good
terms with the Spaniards; but none of thefe parties eftecm the other as
important friends or dangerous enemies. The prevailing opinion of the
wcakncfs of the Spaniards, and the want of fupport which the inhabi-
tants experience, beget a predilection for England, under the government
of which country they would not be left without fupport : but in reality
they wifh for the protection of France : they are Frenchmen, and as
attached to their country as if they formed a part of it.

France, therefore, is in the moft favourable fituation of any country
in the world, to obtain Louifiana from Spain. Spain gets nothing
thence but timber, and in fact only gives a wider range to Englifli acti-
vity. Nay, the Englifh w r ould difpoflefs her of Louifiana, if fhe fhould.
wifh to retain it, and they fhould not change their political fyftem, which
is highly improbable. France is, on the contrary, rich, active, abound-
ing in manufactures, and would fpeedily organize all thefe eftablifhments.
Many families who are in want of every thing in France, and whom the
revolution has rendered reftlefs and uncafy, might be fent hither. By lands
granted them, their fituation would be rendered comfortable, and their
mind eafy and virtuous; which is the cafe with many foreigners, who
come every year to fettle in the United States ; who, when they become

4 K poffcfled

<5lS TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

pofTeflcd of property, forget the vices, which cauled many of them to
emigrate.

For all thefe accounts concerning Florida and Louifian v a I am indebted
to general officers, merchants, and engineers, who have become Ameri-
cans ; -but- who, until the ceffion of Louiiiana to Spain, were in the
Englifh. fervice. One; of them w^as furveyor-general, and ppiTclTes the
moft perfect map of Weil Florida that can be w idled for. He has pro*
jected it himfelf, on a large fcale.

RETURN TO CHARLESTON.

On the 2d of May, I embarked on board the Savannah Packet, one of
the brigs that are conflantly paffing between Savannah and Charlefton..
Thefe veffels generally belong to the Captains. They make about thirty-
five voyages in a year ; are always laden ; and yield very c.onfiderable
.profits. The freight for a bale of cotton, or a hpgfhead of tobacco, is
three dollars. The captains man thefe veilels with negro ilaves^ that be-
long to them ; and confequently their crew is flow, unmanageable, a,nd
bad, according to the known qualities of negroes. Their food, through-
out the whole year, confifls in bad peafe, which are meafured out to
them with the utmoft pariimony. On confidering their fluggim manner
of working the iliip in fair weather, the idea of being at fea with fuch
perfons cannot but be frightful, when the fafety of the veiTel depends
upon the quicknefs of a tack. We w r ere two days upon our voyage,
which was long for this feafon : part of the time, we were becalmed;
and when we reached the bar of -Charlefton on Monday at funfct, we
were obliged to wait till the following day, before we could pafs over.
The bar at Savannah, where there are always- four fathoms of water,
can be pafied by fmall veflels at any time.

On my return from Savannah, I fpent three weeks more at Charlefton,
and added coniiderably to the information, which I had collected on my
firft journey. The inhabitants, who w^ere in a condition to give me any
intelligence, did it faithfully. I alfo made fome excurfions into the fur-
rounding

BY THE DUKE DE LA noCHEPOUCAULT LI A.N COURT.

rounding country, which enabled me to afcertain the truth of my for-
mer information.

South Carolina is by nature divided into the Upper and the Lower,
by means of the Appalachian, or Alleghany mountains. The fame di-
vifion takes place in Virginia, North Carolina, and Georgia ; a divifion,
which is foon diftinguifhed by the quality of the foil, and the climate.

I believe that the whole of Lower Carolina has been covered with
water. My reaibn for this opinion is, that there are no {tones to be
found any where in the ground ; and upon digging it up, there are layers,
of fea-fhells, and often petrified fifh, in the middle of the fand. Entire
oyfter-banks lie at fuch a diftance (fixty or eighty miles) from the fea,
that it cannot poffibly be fuppofed they were placed there by men. One
of thefe banks is more than fifty miles in extent, arid contains a kind of.
oyfter, which is much larger than any that are found on the coaft, and
entirely different. It lies in a fouth-weftern direction from the river
Santee in South Carolina to the river Oconee in .Georgia acrofs the Sa-
vannah.

There is frem water ten or twelve feet below the farface of the earth :
and fuch wells only as are funk very near the fea, contain fome falt-
water, which may have found its way into them from the fea.

The land in Lower Carolina is alfo divided into fvvamps, marflies, and
high land. The fwamps, as has already been obferved, are of two kinds,
namely, either fuch as are watered by frem water, and by the flood-tide ;
they both ferve for the cultivation of rice and hemp. The foil of thefe
is a rich blue clay, or a fine black earth : on digging ever fo deep you
find conftantly the fame earth. Immenfe trunks of trees are often found
in the ground, which appear to have lain there for ages : you cannot
however dig very deep, on account of the water oozing through it every
where. The fwamps, before they were cleared, produced cyprefs, fir,
and reed.

The rice, which is principally cultivated here, is fown in April and
May. The ground is turned up eight or nine inches deep in furrows';
into which the rice is thrown by a woman, in the fame manner as corn

4 K 2 is

620 TBA.VELS IN NOFxTH AMERICA,

. /

is fown, and the negroes 11 them up. Thefe three operations take place
at the fame time. The feedfwoman affords employment to twenty-five
labourers, many of whom are women.

The feed moots up in ten or twelve days, according as the ground is
more or lefs wet. When the blade is from fix to feven inches high, and
after the negroes have cleared away the weeds, the water is made to
flow over the field, fo that no more than the tops of the blade can be
feen. The rice then grows, but the weeds ftill fprout up. In three or
four weeks more the water is let off, and the negroes take away the re-
maining weeds. They cover the field again with water, which is drawn
off before the crop is cut. The yellow colour of the ear and the hard-
nefs of the ftalk, denote the ripenefs of the rice. It is then cut, and
kept in fhacks till winter.

It is afterwards threfhed, and put into a fmall wooden houfe, which
is fome feet high, and refts upon four pillars ; and in the ceiling of which
is fattened a large fieve. The rice is thrown into the fieve, which fepa-
rates it from the other parts, and the wind cleans it perfectly before it
falls to the ground. The rice, after being thus cleaned, muft be freed
from the firft fhell that furrounds it. For this purpofe it is carried to a
mill ; the grinders of which are made of fir, and are about four inches
thick and two and a half in diameter : one is moveable, the other fixed.
They are both fcooped out in an oblique, yet concentric form : againft
the edges, thus formed the rice is preifed, and by that means feparated
from the hufks. Thefe mills are turned by a negro. On account of the
rapid motion, and the foft wood of which they are made, they do not
laft longer than one year; during which time they require frequent re-
pairs. The rice is winnowed as foon as it comes from the mill. But
ftill it has a fecond ihell which muft be taken off; and this is done by
the negroes pounding it with clubs ; a work as laborious as that of turn-
ing the mill. Several of thefe clubs are put in motion by a kind of mill
which is turned by oxen. After the rice is more or lefs pounded, it is
winnowed again, in order to cleanfe it from the fecond fhell ; and it is
put into another fieve, for the purpofe of feparating the fmall from the

larger

BY THE DUKE DE LA HOCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 621

larger grains. The laft only are faleable. Whether thefe are well fepa-
rated or not, nmft depend on the honefty of the planters : who themfelves
acknowledge, that fmce the price of rice has been fo high, and the de-
mand fo great, they have not been very fcrupulous in this refpccl. In
South Carolina, as little attention is paid to the good quality of rice as
of tobacco. The rice deftined for fale is packed up in barrels, offered to
the infpection of the officer appointed for that purpofe, and then ex-
ported.

I have mentioned General Wafhington's machinery : this is but little
known in Carolina, and too dear for the planters ; who for a long time
to come will only be able to proceed in the manner jufl defcribed.

Before the blade grows up, it is attacked by fmall worms, which gnaw
the root. It is alfo frequently injured by little fifties, that live' in the
water which covers the fvvamps. The rice is then only defended by the
heron (ardca alba minor), which feeds on thefe little worms and fifties ;
and on this account is fpared by the planters as much as the turkey buz-
zard is by the town's-pcople.

When the rice is ripe, it is aflailed by innumerable quantities of fmall
birds, which are known in Carolina by the name of rice-birds. The
young negroes, who are conflantly kept there, frighten them away : this
is a better method than mooting them ; yet thefe voracious birds cannot
be entirely kept off. The rice maybe preferved a long time in the ftiells;
and without them it is liable to be attacked by the corn -worm.

The fwamps yield between fifty and eighty bufhels of rice an acre,
according to the quality of the foil. Sometimes one hundred and twenty
bulhels have been produced from an acre ; but inftances of this kind hap-
pen feldom. Twenty bufhels of rice, with the fhells, weigh about five
hundred pounds. Without the fhells, thefe twenty make but eight
bulhels, without however lofing much in weight. The ftraw is given to
oxen arrf horfes.

The marfhes, which are the fecond kind of land in South Carolina,
produce nothing but very coarfc grafs, but in great abundance. They
lie frequently under water j but they could be well drained, and then

they

022 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

they would yield a better grafs. Some of them lying in a high Situation
produce hemp, Indian-corn, and barley.

The high land is of various kinds ; and, according to the quality of its
foil, produces hickory and oak, or only fir ; and this laft fort of land is
commonly called pine-barrens. Hitherto this land has been neglected,
but unjuftly ; for it might be turned into corn and meadow ground.
The tall firs and thick grafs, which grow there, leave no doubt of the
goodnefs of the foil ; which is unqueftionably proved by fome places that
have been cultivated. The richnefs of the fvvamps, which can be applied
fo advantageoufly to the cultivation of rice, and the want of hands to
clear new lands, caufe the moft unfavourable prejudices in favour of' the
pine-barrens ; which in other refpects are of various kinds, and few of
which would have remained in Europe uncultivated.

The rice can only be cultivated by negroes ; and the population of
white people muft decreafe in a land of ilavery, where it is a degradation
for a white man to work. Slavery, therefore, confirms the planter in his
prejudice for rice ; and the cultivation of rice, on the other hand, at-
taches him to flavery.

It will appear fomewhat paradoxical, when I affert that the cultivation
of rice is the worft, and the leaft productive fpecies of agriculture in Ca-
rolina. The conftant wetnefs of the land is the caufe of the great mor-
tality which prevails there ; and the treafures of Peru would be purchafed
at too dear a rate, for one-tenth of the difeafes caufed by the fwamps k
But laying this afide, the culture of rice is not very productive. Not the
prefent, but the ufual price of rice mull: be taken into calculation. Three
years ago a hundred- weight was worth between feven and eight fhil-
lings, I take it at ten fhillings, and thus raife the price by a fifth* in a
plantation of feventy negroes, no more than forty of them work ; the
reft are old, fick, children, fervants, &c. Every black labourer, on an
average, produces fcarcely feven barrels of rice. A barrel is worth four
pound ten millings, or nineteen dollars twenty-eight cents. The value
of feven barrels, therefore, is thirty-one pounds ten millings, or one hun-
dred and thirty-three dollars ninety-fix cents. From this muft be dc-

duded

BV THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 623

dueled the Wages of the overfeers. At the loweft calculation this amounts
to fixteen pounds, or eighty dollars : add to this, as the expence attend-
ing the difeafes of negroes, thirty pounds, or one hundred and twenty-
eight dollars ; the tax of one dollar for every negro, feventy dollars ; laftly
the cloathing., which, at one pound for each negro, amounts to feventy
pounds, or three hundred dollars, which muft be jJeducled from five
thoufaud three hundred and fifty. There remains a neat overplus of
four thoufand feven hundred and feventy-two dollars ; which, divided by
feventy, the number of negroes, yields a clear profit of fixty-eight dollars
per head ; for the fields with Indian-corn, w r hich are 'cultivated bcfides
the rice fwamps, ferve merely for the fubfiftence of the flaves. The forty
working negroes, or feventy flaves; cannot cultivate at moft above three
hundred acres of fwamps ; and, of confequence, land of the very beft qua-
lity is fold for not quite fixtcen dollars the acre. It will not be denied,
that well cultivated land generally yields more; that for -every fort of
crop, indigo and cotton cxcepted, a fingle labourer can cultivate more
than feven acres ; and that, if labourers were hired, their wages would
not exceed the aggregate amount of the intereft on the purchafe-money,
with the fubliftence and taxes for negroes. The jufhiefs of this calcula-
tion becomes more evident, when the labour of fiaves- is compared with

that of freemen, and efpecially wheu a parallel is drawn between the cul-
ture of rice and that of any other fp f :cks of produce. The former ex-
haufts the foil, and demands more hands, eonfequently, while it is cul-
tivated, a fmallcr quantity of land, even of fwamp, can be cleared,-
of land which, if drained and cultivated in a different manner, would
produce more, and yield higher profits. Moreover, this draining of the
fvvampy foil. would render the climate of Carolina perfectly healthful.
White people might perform the labour in the fields, and every .ground
for the continuance of flaverv would be removed. Again, all the his:h

* c_j _,

lands might thus be cleared, which at prefent, merely for 'want of hands,
remain uncultivated. Add to this, that the old fwamps, being dried up
by the fun and the wind, decreafe every year, without growing Je& pefU-
ferous by their effluvia.

This

624 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

This reafoning, however irrefragable it appears to me, will hardly con*
quer the irrefiftible force of habit, efpecially at the prefent period, when
rice fetches three times its ufual price, and the planters indulge in a hope,
that it will not fall again, although this appears highly improbable to all
impartial men.

The rivers in South Carolina, which have their fources among the
mountains, frequently overflow their banks. Thefe inundations, which
the Americans caX\. freflies , often fweep along the harveft, together with
the woods, which furround the rice fields ; they are attributed to the
great quantity of rain in Carolina, to the numerous rivulets and brooks
which fall into the rivers, and laftly to the great declivity of the ground,
through which thefe rivers flow. They have become extremely fre-
quent of late years, which is imputed to the great quantity of cleared
land, where that water ufed to ftagnate, which is now falling into the
rivers. The quantity of mud is at the fame time augmented by the earth,
mixed with the water ; and while theilream is encreafed, the bed of the
river is narrowed. No certain mode of remedying this evil has, hitherto,
been difcovered ; but a hope is entertained, that, by conducting thefe
brooks and rivulets in a ilraight direction, by enlarging the mouths of
the rivers, and cutting off their numerous windings by fmall canals, it
may be poffible to fecure the upper country againil inundations, and to
leflen the danger of the low lands, fituated nearer to the mouths of the
ftreams. There is, however, rcafon to fear, that this remedy, which has
not yet been applied, will fall fhort of a complete cure.

Although Upper Carolina differs widely from Lower Carolina, both
in point of culture and climate, yet the fame prejudices and manners
prevail in both countries.

The original fettlers of Lower Carolina were Europeans, who cffo-
bliihed themfelves in the vicinity of the fea ; the culture of rice was foon
introduced. This is a product which fuits not cvcrv foil, and which can
be cultivated only by Haves. The new fettlers availed themfelves of this
affiflance, but w r ere ignorant of the climate being rendered infalu-
brious by this fort of culture. It was accordingly commenced, .and has

fmce

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOUR.T.

fmcc been continued, but will probably be fuppreiTed in the proccfs of
time.

Upper Carolina was fettled much later by emigrants from Pennfyl-
vania, but efpecially from Virginia and Maryland. The latter intro-
duced into this country the culture of tobacco, to which they were ac-
cuftomcd, and fettled near the rivers, on fuch foil as appeared to them
moft proper for this branch of agriculture. The Pennfylvanians culti-
vated wheat, the chief produce of Penniylvania, but the quantity raifed
was inconfiderable, becaufe the emigrants from Pennfylvania were the
Icaft numerous ; and tobacco was for a long time almoft the only com-
modity cultivated in the country, until the low price of tobacco, and
efpecially the circumftance, that it exhaufts the foil, opened the eyes of
the cultivators, and induced them to cncreafe the cultivation of grain
and cotton, and to improve the grafs-lands.

This change has taken place but very lately, nor has the ancient prac-
tice completely ceafcd. The population of Upper Carolina is not nume-
rous, and the emigration from that country is not inconiiderable. It is
for this reafon that the befl land only, which confifts of a rich clay, is
cultivated, while the reft remains covered with firs, which are of a much
larger fize, than in Lower Carolina. This order of things will continue,
as long as the population {hall not obtain more confiderable additions, and
a period be put to the emigration of the inhabitants. This reftleflhefs of
difpofition prevails here as much among the planters, as it does in Georgia.
A family cuts down the trees on fome acres of land, loofens the furface
of the foil, fows as much Indian-corn and potatoes as is necefTary for its
fubfiftence, and makes up the deficiency with game or pork. They fre-
quently quit their fmall tracl before it is completely cleared, and remove
farther into the foreft, where, lefs furrounded by planters, they can live
more to their tafte. 'Thefe people are a fort of favages, more greedy and
vicious than the Indians, and merely diftinguifhed from the latter by the
'colour. Such of them as dwell on the confines live* however, on bet-
ter terms with the natives, than thole who refide on the borders of

Georgia.

4 L Inftanccs

'2t) TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

Inftances of planters continuing long In the fame place where they
firft fettled are more rare here, than in Pcnnfylvania. They generally
emigrate from South Carolina to Teneffee, Kentucky, and the weftern
countries, but fome remove alfo to the back part of Georgia.

By the computation of the inhabitants of South Carolina in 17.91, the
population amounted to one hundred and forty-nine thoufand nine hun-
dred and feventy-three fouls, one hundred and feven thoufand nine hun-
dred and ninety-four of whom were flaves. More than two-thirds of this
population belong to Upper Carolina, the inhabitants of which, efpecially
the white people, have, ilnce that time, confiderably encreafed in num-
ber. Lower Carolina, it is aflerted, is ,ilot in this condition.

The trade of North Carolina has been more enlarged than that of any
other flate. Charlefton is in facl the only trading port of South Carolina,
as Beaufort carries on no maritime trade, and that of Georgetown is very-
trifling, In future all the produce of the country is to be conveyed to
Charlefton on the Santee-canal ; it is at prefent tranfported down the
river by Georgetown, and fometimes unlhipped there ; which change of
conveyance cannot but greatly injure the trade of this town

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028 TRAVELS IX NORTH AMERICA,

The commodities, comprifed under the denomination of other article.-, .
are timber, hemp, tar, fome deer-fkins, &e. and alfo provifion for the
Antilles, which is re-exported from Charlefton.

On examining this table, you find, that the extraordinary increafe of
the export trade of Charleflon, in the four years and a half in queftion,
originates entirely from the value of the exports, while in point of quan-
tity the exportation has rather decreafed than increafed; for although
more of cotton and rice has been exported, yet the quantity of: exported
tobacco and indigo is lefs. This is ftill more evident from the quantity
of tonnage ; for in. 1/Q5 there were employed one thoufand feven hun-
dred and eighty- five tons of Ihipping lefs than in 1/Q2, although. the
value of the exports in 1/95 exceeds that of 1792 by two millions nine
hundred and forty-nine thoufand four hundred and ninety-one dollars,
and is. nearly double the amount of the latter year. It will be eafily con- -
ceived, that the war, in which Europe is engaged, and which has raifed
the price of the commodities of Carolina, as well as other ftates,* has alfo
confiderably increafed the re-exportation of provifion fer . the Antilles ;
for the value of the latter-amounted in 1795 to-two millions nine hundred,
and thirty-one thoufand -two hundred and fixty-four dollars more than in
1/Q3, that is, to four times as much.

The; following ftatement relative to the exportation of ^the three prin-
cipal commodities of South Carolina from the port of Charleston for the
years 1783, 1784, and 1/85, affords ~a comparative view -of the: agricul-
ture of thefe different periods.*

Rice. Tobacco. Indigo.

1783, 61,974 -.barrels. 2,680 hogflieads.. 2;051 chefts. .

1784, 63,713 2,303 1,789

1785, 65,857 3,929 2,l63.

The trade of Charleflon, which is extremely active, has proved highly
beneficial to America, as becomes evident from the circumftance, that in-
ftead of feven thoufand fix hundred and fixty-five tons of American fhip-

* At this period cotton was not cultivated in South Carolina.

ping,

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT HANCOURT.

ping, employed in this trade in 17<>2, fifteen thoufand fix hundred and
iixty-five, or three times as many, were employed in l/y3. The de-
creafe of foreign fhipping during the fame period by twenty thoufand
and eighty-one tons is an additional proof, that the increafe of the trade
of Ciiarlcfton is chiefly owing to the war in Europe, which greatly ob-
ftrucls the trade of the powers at war, fo that this increafe is but tem-
porary. At -the conclufion of peace thefc nations will refume their
Ihare of the American trade, and probably greatly reduce the participa-
tion of American bottoms in their colonial traffic.

I was not able to procure from all trading ports as ample and correct
information as I obtained in Charlefton ; but I am certain, that the re-
fults muft be every where the fame, and muft lead to the fame confe-
quences.

In addition to the fixty thoufand two hundred and two tons of ihip-
ping employed in the foreign commerce of Charlefton, the coafting trade- '
and fifhery occupies many fmall vefTcls from twelve to feventy tons bur-*
then.

The increafe of 'tonnage has not been attended with any augmenta-
tion of the mip-building in Charlefton. From J7Q1 until April 1796,
no more than twenty-fix fmps were built, carrying in the whole two
thoufand feven hundred and eighty-five tons* They are moft of 'them
either floops or fchooners ; fome are brigs; and two are three-mafted
veffels. The reafon why the mip-building has not kept pace with
the export-trade- is the fcarcity, or rather the great want of workmen, -
a confequence of which is the-high price of mips, which are here dearer-
by fifteen dollars per ton, than in the eaftern.ftates, which have not iuf-
ficicrit commodities to load their veiTels, .and fend them accordingly to
the fouthern ftates for fale. Thus the merchants of Charlefton augment
the tonnage of their fhipping by purchafmg mips in the eaftern ftates;
and this ftate of things w r ill continue as long as the population of Caro-
lina {hall continue as fmall, as it is at prefent, and labouring people can . .
earn more by working in the fields, than by any other employment.
Ships built in Carolina with the timber of the country laft three times

longer,

.030 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

longer, than thofc conftrudted in the eaftern ftates ; for although thefe
employ timber of the fouth in the building of fliips, yet they are not
entirely conftru&ed of it, and confequently they cannot be as durable
as vefTels built in the fouthern ftates.

For the fame reafons, which obftrucl: the building of fhips in Georgia
and Virginia, no feamen can be found there for manning the mips, which
belong to Charlefton. Thefe are likewife furnimed by the eaftern ftates,
and many of them arrive in that port, either on board of mips engaged
in the foreign trade, or in coafting vefTels, which in winter carry to
Charlefton the produce of feveral parts of Carolina and Georgia, and on
account of the higher wages engage on board of fhips in foreign trade.
Few of thefe feamen continue in Charlefton after the time, for which
they have hired themfelves, is elapfed, becaufe every thing is there twice
as dear as in their own country. Some negroes ferve alfo on board of
trading veffels ; they generally form a third of the crew, and are free ne-
.groes. But onboard of coafters, and fuch fliips as trade within the dif-
tricl: of Charlefton, they conftitute three fifths of the fhip's company,
becaufe the mafters are in general alfo the owners of the fhips, and thus
can man them with their own flaves.

The articles, which form the exports of Charlefton, are conveyed to this
port either on the different rivers and the Santee-canal, or by land-con-
veyance, of which more ufe is made than of that by water, on account of
the difficult navigation of that part of the river Santee which is next to
the fea, of the paiTage from Georgetown to Charlefton, and of the rapid
ftream, on working up the river. There are alfo parts in Upper Carolina,
which are fo remote from any navigable waters, that a land-conveyance
becomes abiblutely neceilary. Cotton, indigo, and hemp, are tranfported
in large waggons with four or fix horfes. The hogfheads of tobacco are
not removed in waggons, but in a fort of fledges. The carriage is not
expenfive, as the horfes never enter a ftable. They continually remain
in the woods, which at all times abound in grafs of the beft kind. The
waggoners carry their Indian-corn, their falt-meat, and their cheefe, with
them, and enter the inns, to drink a few glafTes of whiiky. The-bufmefs

-of

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIAXCOURT.

of* waggoners is, I underftand, very profitable in Carolina. The carriage
for provifion from the back country amounts toone dollar and one-third
the hundred- weight ; in fpring it is fomewhat dearer than in autumn.
.The carriage to Columbia on the river Combahoe, amounts to two mil-
lings and iixpencc.

The Santee canal, which is to connect the river Santee with the river
Cooper, and which is twenty miles in length, will greatly facilitate the
communication by water, and of confequence confiderably leffcn the con-
veyance by land. This canal will foon be finifhed; fome locks have
already been built, and, it is confidently faid, that it will be completed
about the year 1/97, or at lateft the year following. It meets the
river a little below the point where the tide turns. The return-pafTagc
is, therefore, much facilitated by the flood-tide. VefTcls of any burthen
will arrive here fafe, by means of this inland navigation, from all navigable
creeks, which empty into the river Santee ; and moreover, the paflage is
mortened about twenty miles.

The canal is contracted by a company, incorporated in 1/80, by an
act of the legislature, by which" all the land, not yet difpofed of at that
period, were granted to this company, together with the privilege of
levying a toll for an unlimited length of time. The Santee-canal is not
the only one, the completion of which is promoted by the legislature of
Carolina ; it alfo encourages the 'construction of others, where the face of
the country and the courfe of the rivers will permit.

1 cannot clofe this long article on Carolina, without mentioning with
deferved praife.the kind reception I experienced in Charleston. This is a
duty, which I owe to the inhabitants of all the parts of America which I
have traverfed, but efpecially to this place. In no town of the United
States does a foreigner experience more benevolence and hofpitality, or find
more agreeable manners and a more entertaining fociety, than in Charlef-
ton ; no where will he pleafe himfelf better, and no place will he leave
with more regret. I Should be obliged to name almoft every perfbn I have
leen in Charlefton, were I to do juftice to my feelings ; this, however,
would render me too diflufe. I Shall therefore only name Mr. JOHN

PR IN OLE,

632 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

PRINGLE, whofe houfe, during my refidcnce in Charlefton, I confide e'das
my own ; Mr. ISAAC HOLME, receiver of the-cuftoms, an. excellent man,
poflefled of extenfive knowledge, to whom I am indebted for the major
part of the information I have been able to collect ; Mr. ED. RUTLEDGE,
a man of uncommon parts, of -a cheerful and amiable temper, of profound
-learning and the moft liberal fentiments, who has affifted the unfortunate
emigrants of St. Domingo in the mofl generous and difmterefted manner ;
General PINCKNEY, who by his talents, prudence, and honourable con-
duel, -has defervedly obtained the confidence and refpecl; of his fellow-
citizens ; laftly, the worthy Mr. MA.N, and his partner Mr. FOLTZ, to
whom I had a letter of introduction, and who enjoy a distinguished re-
putation for benevolence, prudence, and rectitude.

I could have wifhed to make a tour through North Carolina, before
I returned to Philadelphia. But the time, when I was obliged to be
in that city, not allowing me to carry -this wiih into reffecl, I mall here
fubjoin the information, which I have received, relative to North Caro-
lina, efpecially from Mr. IREDWELL, member of the fupreme tribunal
of the United States, an -inhabitant of that country, and a man ofdiilin-
guifhed talents, and the moft refpeclable cliarafter.

NORTH CAROLINA.

"The coaft of 'North Carolina w r as vifited as early as the beginning of lafl
century, but the firft permanent fettlements were formed in 1710, by
-emigrated inhabitants of the Palatinate. The proprietors of Carolina en-
couraged thefe fettlements, and granted to the new fettlers the tra6l of
land between Albemarle-found, formed by the river Roanoe and Bath-
ibay, which is formed by the river Tar. This fettlcment \vas almoir. com-

* /

pletely deftroyed by the Tufcarora Indians in 1721, from motives which
remain unknown ; for the hiftory of North Carolina is involved in greater
-obfcurity than that of any other flate. About one hundred and twenty-
feven inhabitants were murdered, and the furvivors demanded vengeance
from the Governor of South Carolina, to which the country at that time
Jbelonged. A war enfued, in which the Indians fuftained very fevere

loflfes,

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 633

lofles, and wherein the fmall army of South Carolina received a power-
ful affiftance from feveral other Indian tribes. The Tufcaroras, who did
not perim in the war, left North Carolina, to join the five nations on the
Great Lake. The colony, which remained tolerably quiet fmce that
time, increafed in populoumefs and profperity until 1 729, when the feven
proprietors transferred their right to the Crown. The country was at
that time disjoined from South Carolina, and by the order of George the
Second creeled into a diftinct province, under the name of North Caro-
lina.

In 1776 the conftitution of North Carolina was formed, on principles
much refembling thofe of the other ftates. The Houfe of Reprefenta-
tives confrfb of two members for each county, the whole ftate being
divided into fifty-eight counties, and of two members for each confider-
able town, fuch as Edenton, Newbern, Wilmington, Salifbury, Hilf-
borough, Halifax, and Fayetteville. The reprefentatives muft have re-
fided a twelvemonth in the county, by which they are elected, and ppf-
feflfed fix months an eftate of one hundred acres. The Senate is com-
pofed of one member for each county ; no inhabitant can be elected a
fenator, without having refided a twelvemonth in the county, and pof-
feffing three hundred acres.

Thofe who elect the fenators muft be twenty-one years old, and have
inhabited twelve months within the ftate, and poffefled fix months an eftate
of fifty acres. The electors of the reprefentatives muft be of the fame
age, and refided as long in the ftate; but it is fufficient, that they have
paid the taxes for the laft year, without pofieffing any property.

The Governor, as well as his council, compofed of leven members, are
elected by both houfes. The neceffary qualification for the place of a
Governor are, an age of thirty years, a five years refidence in the ftate,
and the poiTeffion of a property to the amount of one thoufand pounds
fterling, or two thoufand five hundred dollars. (The money of North Ca-
rolina is like that of New York, worth only eight millings the dollar.) All
places under government are in the gift of the two houfes; the fecretary
of ftate is appointed .every three years. The judges, as well as the attor-

4 . M ncy-

;634 -TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

~ney-general, are nominated in the fame manner ; but they receive their
appointment from the governor, and keep their places as long as they
conduct themfelves in a proper manner. The governor bears no mare in
the execution of the laws. The conftitution declares unworthy of being
appointed to any public place, or elected reprefentatives, all perfons who
believe not in God, in the truth of the Proteftant religion, and the divine
origin of the. Old and New Teftament.

The public expenditure fluctuates from thirty-feven thoufand five hun-
dred to forty-five thoufand dollars.

The taxes are as follows, viz. eight pence, or two-thirds of a milling,
for every hundred .acres of land, without the leaft distinction in regard
to quality and fituation, they begin as foon as the occupiers of the
lands enter upon their poiTeifion ; two millings for every hundred pounds
taxable property, or two hundred and fifty dollars in town-lots ; two
Shillings for every white inhabitant or negro, whether a freeman or
Have, from the twelfth to the fiftieth year of age ; ten millings for every
ftallion ; forty millings for the licence to keep a tavern, or for felling
ipirituous liquors ; and from eight to twenty fhillings for every fen-
tence or, d,ecree,, .according to the different courts by which they are pro-
nounced.

The ftate, in regard to the collection of taxes, is divided into fifty-eight
diftricts, which may be altered by the county -courts. Thejuftices of the
peace are, by virtue of their places, collectors of the taxes; they are ap-
pointed by the county-courts, and receive fix per cent on the amount of
the taxes, which they collect, and fixpence for every mile which they
travel for this purpofe. In 1/Q5, the taxes amounted to fifteen thoufand
fix hundred and eighty-one pounds fterling, or thirty- nine thoufand two
hundred dollars ; the taxes on town-lots two thoufand five hundred dol-
lars ; on lands, fix thoufand three hundred and eighty-fix pounds ten
{hillings ilerling (the number of taxable acres amounts to one million
three hundred and ninety-nine thoufand fix hundred and feventy) ; the
poll-tax, tw T cnty-five thoufand four hundred dollars ; the taxes on law-
fuits, billiards, and horfes, two thoufand five hundred ; making in the

whole

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEPOUCAULT LIANCOURT. 635

whole forty-fix thoufand one hundred and eighteen dollars. Deducting
from this fum the expence of collecting the taxes, and the lofs arrfing
from defaulters, there remains a neat furplus of thirty-nine thoufand two-
hundred dollars.

The public debt confifts in bills of credit to the amount of one hun-
dred and fifty thoufand pounds fterling, or three hundred and ieventy-five
thoufand dollars, which are either in the treafury or in circulation. By
the determination of the commiffioners the debt, which the Union ow r es
to this {late, amounts to five hundred and one thouiand eight hundred-
and eighty-two dollars.

The Apalachian or Alleghany Mountains divide the ftate into two
parts, which, in point of climate and foil, widely differ from each other.
The low lands, which might be cultivated in as advantageous a manner,,
as thofe of the fame defcription in Virginia and South Carolina, are far
from having attained the fame degree of culture. The great difficulties
by which the river navigation is obftrudled, and eipecially the want of
harbours, which impedes the exportation of commodities, cannot but
check the progrefs of cultivation, and bar the profperity of North Caro-
lina, efpecially as, from want of money, thefe impediments cannot pof-
fibly be removed. The greateft obftacle of the navigation of the rivers
confifts in their mouths being mut up by large fand-banks, originating
either from the rapidity of the ftreams, from ftrong currents of the Gulf of
Mexico, or perhaps from both thefe caufes, and which probably will pre-
vent North Carolina, for a considerable length of time, from enjoying all
the advantages, which fhe might other wife derive from her foil and fitua-
tion.

The entrance of thofe places which are called harbours, is ib very dif-
ficult, and the depth of water in the narrows fo inconfiderable, that, pro-
perly fpeaking, there exift no ports in North Carolina. The beft of them is
Wilmington, thirty-five miles from Cape Fear. Ships of three hundred
tons burthen may enter this port ; but the entrance is rendered extremely,
difficult by a large fhoal, known to feafaring people under the name
of th Rocks of Cape Fear. The north-eaftern branch of the river Fear

4 M 2- is

636 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

is navigable as far as Fayetteville, one hundred miles beyond Wilming-
ton, for veffels of eighteen or twenty tons burthen. This navigation,
which is of a much greater extent than any other river- navigation in
the ftate, contributes much to enliven the trade of Wilmington. 'The
commodities of the back country are fent thither, as well as the produce
of the Antilles, and European manufactures. Fayetteville derives fome
importance from this flate of things, and its commerce is daily encrcafmg.
Wilmington chiefly trades to the Antilles. European goods are fent
thither from Charlefton, Baltimore, and Norfolk. The exports of Wil-
mington amounted, in 1/91, to two hundred and fifty-eight thoufand
feven hundred and twenty-eight dollars ; in 1792, to two hundred and
fixty-two thoufand four hundred and ninety-eight dollars ; in 1 793, to
one hundred and feventy-one thoufand five hundred and fixty-nine dol-
lars; in 1794, to one hundred and thirty-three thoufand one hundred
and fixty-feven dollars; and in 1795, to two hundred and fifty-four
thoufand one hundred and fifty-one dollars.

The moft confiderable parts, next to Wilmington, are Edenton and
Newbern. Newbern is feated on the river Nufe, at its confluence with
the Trent, one ^hundred miles from the fea, from which the coaft of
North Carolina is feparated by long and fmall iflets, from Cape Lookout
to the border-s of Virginia. Ships coming from fea pafs between thefe
iflets to enter the large bays, into which all the rivers of Carolina empty
themfelves. Ships from one hundred and eighty to two hundred tons
burthen fail as far as twelve -miles above Newbern, and the river is na-
vigable for fmaller veffels one hundred miles farther up the river. VefTels
of upwards of one hundred tons -burthen are frequently obliged to unload.
The exports of Newbern amounted, in 1/.91, to one hundred and five
thoufand fix hundred and eighty-five dollars; in 1792, to one hundred
and one thoufand three -hundred and fixty-feven dollars; in 1/93, to
fixty thoufand fix hundred and ninety-five dollars ; in ] 794, to fixty-nine
thoufand fix hundred and feventcen dollars; and in 1795, to ieventy-
three thoufand fix hundred and fifty-two dollars.

Edenton is fituatcd on the river Roanoke, near the point of Albe-

marle

BY THE DUKE t>E LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIAN COURT. 637

marie-found, and one hundred and fifty miles from the illand of Roanokc,
one of the above iflets. Ships of one hundred and fifty tons burthen
can fail as far as Edenton, and fome miles farther up. Thence to the
rapids, that is, to the diftance of feventy miles from Edenton, the river
is only navigable for batteaux of twenty or thirty tons burthen. The
Roanoke waters the moft fertile parts of North Carolina. The exports
from Edenton amounted, in 17Q1, to ninety- two thoufand three hundred
and fix dollars ; in 1 792, to eighty- feven thoufand two hundred and
three dollars; in 1793, to fifty-nine thoufand five hundred and feventy-
fix dollars; in 1794, to fifty thoufand fix hundred and forty-eight dol-
lars; and in 1795, to feventy-feven thoufand nine hundred and feven
dollars.

The produce of the country above the rapids is unfhipped at the fpot
where they begin, and tranfported by land to Peterfburgh in Virginia.
When the projected canal through Difmalfwamps fhall be finifhed,
which is to connect Albemarle-found with the river Elizabeth, all the
commodities, which are at prefent exported from Edenton, will be tranf-
ported to Norfolk, as the communication with Albemarle-found becomes
more and more difficult. The county of Camden, fituated on Albe-
marle-found, and nearer to the fea than Edenton, has a cuflom-houfe,
as well as the town of Wilmington, feated on the river Fear, one hun-
dred miles from the ifland Ocrecok. Their fituation being lefs favour-
able, than that of the three former, their exports are in confequence lefs
considerable. From the books of thefe five cuflom-houfes it appears,
that the exports from North Carolina amounted, in 1 791, to five hundred
and twenty-four thoufand five hundred and forty-eight dollars ; in 1 792,
to two hundred and twenty-feven thoufand eight hundred and ninety-
nine dollars; in 1793, to three hundred and fixty-five thoufand four
hundred and fourteen dollars ; in 1 794, to three hundred and twenty-one
thoufand five hundred and eighty- feven dollars; and in 1795, to four
hundred and ninety-two thoufand one hundred and fixty-one dollars.
Thefe exports are almoft entirely drawn from the lower parts of North
Carolina, and confift in tar, turpentine, refin, balks, boards, fhingles,

{laves,

638 TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,

ftaves, deer and calf fkins, tobacco and rice, (of the laft two articles
but fmall quantities are exported), pork, bacon, tallow, bees-wax,
myrtle-wax, &c. The productions of the upper parts of North Carolina
are exported to the eaflern ftates, which in return fupply Carolina with
flour, cheefe, hides, potatoes, hardware, hats, and European goods. The
high price of labour and difficult navigation obftrucl: the building of
fhips, although the country produces the fineft fhip-timber in the greatefl
abundance.

The lower parts of North Carolina are as unhealthy as thofe of South
Carolina ; nay more fo, although there are not as many rice-fwamps in
the former, as in the latter province. In winter fevers and pleurifies are
very frequent. The climate of the upper parts is very healthful ; they
are warned by many rapid ftreams, and not liable to the fame dangers.
In both, but efpecially in the upper parts, the woods are full of pigs and
calves, which furnim confiderable articles of exportation. The popula-
tion of North Carolina amounted, in 1791, to three hundred and ninety-
three thoufand feven hundred and fifty fouls, one hundred and five thou-
fand and fixty-one of -whom were Haves. The exaclnefs of this eftimate
is, however, doubted, and the population, it is afiferted, was already in
1791 more confiderable, than it appears by this eftimate. Since that
period it has been encreafed more from its own flock, than by emigration
from other ftates ; for though colonifts arrive from thefe parts, yet on
the other hand many fettlers emigrate again to Georgia, South Carolina,
Kentucky, and Teneflee. Since 1788, Raleigh is the capital and feat of
government, which, previoufly to that time, removed from one place to
another. The towns in Carolina are few in number and iniignificant.
Moft of the proprietors refide on their plantations, and live there like
Virginians, but not quite fo well, as in general they poiTefs not ib much
wealth, as the Virginia planters. They are bufied, it is faid, in perfect-
ing their mode of agriculture, and are good and mild matters to their
flaves. I have not been able to obtain either the regulations concerning
them, or any other law.

The

BY THE DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT LIANCOURT.

The moft numerous feet in North Carolina is that of the Prefbyterians,
efpecially in the weftern parts, which are inhabited by emigrants of
Pennfylvania. But there are alfo great numbers of Calvinifts, Luthe-
Epifcopalians, and Quakers ; they perform, however, no more divine
fervice in a regular manner, than they do in Virginia and South Caro-
lina. Here is alfo a fettlement of Moravians.

This is the information, that I have been able to collect, relative to
North Carolina, of all the ftates apparently moft remote from that im-
proved ftate of culture, which, from the quality of its foil and produc-
tions, it is perfectly capable of attaining. North Carolina will, no doubt,
in time advance to a more perfect degree of cultivation ; her future opu-
lence will depend on the quality of commodities me produces ; .but, from
the nature of her coaft and rivers, fhe will never be able to acquire any
confiderable rank among trading and commercial ftates.

THE END.

POSTSCRIPT.

[Since the Jheet was printed off which contains the remarks on the
policy of the Lieutenant -Governor of Upper Canada, the following authentic
Document has been put into the hands of the Editor, who, in jujlice to the
character of the re/peccable General, has here prefented it to the Reader, ,]

SPEECH

OP HIS EXCELLENCY

JOHN GRAVES SIMCOE, ESQUIRE,

Lieutenant-Governor of the Province of Upper Canada, &c. &c. &c.
Upon proroguing the Fifth: Seffion of the Provincial Parliament of Upper Canada.

Honourable Gentlemen of the Legiflative Council, and
Gentlemen of the Houfe of Affembly!

THE public buflnefs of the feffions being brought to a conclusion,
it is with pleafure, I confider your proceedings therein, have been
marked with the fame attention to the welfare of the province, which
has diftinguimed your conduct throughout the whole of this, the firft
provincial parliament of Upper Canada ; and which draws near to its
termination agreeably to the laws.

It is not pomble for me, without emotion, to contemplate, that we
have been called upon to execute the rnoft important truft that can be
delegated by the King and Britim Parliament, during a period of awful
and ftupendous events, which flill agitate the greater part of mankind,
and which have threatened to involve all that is valuable in civil fociety
in one promifcuous ruin. However remote we have been happily placed

4 N from

642 P OSTSCRIPT.

from the fcene of thefe events, we have not been without their influ-
ence ; but, by the bleffing of God, it has only been fufficient to prove,
that this province, founded upon the rock of loyalty, demonflrates one
common fpirit in the defence of their king and their country.

In the civil provifions for the eftablifhment and maintenance of our
conftitution, and the benefits flowing therefrom, we fhall, I truft,
always recollect with great fatisfaction, that we have been actuated and
guided by a fair and upright defire to lay the foundations of private right
and of public profperity.

I humbly believe that his Majefty, the father of his people, and the
beneficent founder of this loyal province, will accept our endeavours to
perpetuate thefe bleffings, which it is his wifh fhould attend his faithful
fubjects and their remoteft posterity.

Honourable Gentlemen, and Gentlemen !

IT is our immediate duty to recommend our public acts to our fellow-
fubjects by the efficacy of our private example ; and to contribute in this
tract of the Britifh empire, to form a nation, obedient to the laws, fru-
gal, temperate, induftrious ; imprefled with a ftedfaft love of juftice, of
honour, of public good ; with unfhaken probity and fortitude amongft
men, with Chriftian piety and gratitude to God !

Confcious of the intention of well-doing, I fhall ever cherifh, with re-
verence, and humble acknowledgement, the remembrance, that it is my
(ingular happinefs to have borne to this province the powers, the privi-
leges, the principles, and the practice of the Britiih conftitution ; this
perpetual monument of the good-will of the empire, the reward of tried
affection and loyalty, can beft fulfil the juft end of all government, as
trie experience of ages hath proved, by communicating univerfally, pro-
tection and profperity, to thofe who pake a rightful ufe of its advan-

tages.

INDEX.

A.
A DAMS, Mr. character of, Prefident of the

JL\ United States, 407.

Agriculture, ftate of, in Northumberland, 70 ;
at Afylum, 95 ; about old Shefhequen, 97 ;
in Geneflee, 120; Captain Williamfon's
fettlement, 135; diftricT: of Kingfton, 281 ;
Canada, 310; German Flats, 361; Al-
bany, 371 ; Marlborough, 398 ; county of
Maine, 42" ; North Yarmouth, 458 ; dif-
tria of Berwick, 464, 465 ; Rhode-Ifland t
496; to wnfliip of Lebanon, 515; environs
of New York, 539 ', Jerfey, 547 ; Carolina,
576.

Ague, endemic in Geneflee, 144, 146; attempts
to cure it by a magic charm, 262.

Albany, defcription of the fettlement and town
of, 376; trade and exports, ibid. 368; fliip-
ping, ibid.; price of (hip-building, 369; po-
pulation, 370 ; ftyle of building, ibid*; re-
venue, ibid.; bank, 371 ; manufactories, ib.

Allen, Mr. Van, member of the Congrefs, 340.

Alma, eftate of Captain, 43 t .

Ambrofe, St. fituation of the Spanish ifiand of,
410; abounds with feals, ibid.

America, means of raifing a fortune in, 45, 63,
67.

Americans, conduct of the, to the Indians, 45 ;
their fentiments in regard to England, 238,
366; and relative to France, 366^ 379.

Angelico, farm of, 30; how cultivated, ibid.;
produce of the land, 31 ; inattention to im-
proving the dung, 33.

Animals, wild, lefs fierce in America, !43.

Afylum, fituation of, 86; a French fettlement
projected by Meffrs. Talon and de Noailles

ibid.; hiflory of this fettlement, 87 ; prefent
ftate, 88 ; names and numbers of the families,
who have fettled there, 89 ; impediments to
the profperity of the fettlement, 92 ; means
of removing them, ibid.

Attachments, on the force of female, 169, 383.

Axe, form of the American, 165.

Ball, Indian manner of playing at, 249.

Banks, in the United States, 67 ; their influencs
on the price of land, ibid.

Barley, price of, at Robertfon's, 6; Angelico,
34; county of Maine, 428,445.

Baron, plantation of Dr. 590.

Bath, town of, 108; its fituation, 140.

Bath, a port of entry in the townfhip of Lin-
coln, 456 ; its exports, ibid.

Baty, leader of emigrated German families, 269.

Belfaft, account of the townmip of, 435; popu-
lation, 441.

Berkshire, population of the county of, 395,

Berwick, account of the diflricl: of, 464.

Beverly, fituation of the village of, 4G4.

Biddeford, account of the town of, 463 ; trade
and exports, ibid.

Big Plain, fituation of, 170.

Bingham, inn of 'Squire, 344.

Block-houlVs,howconftruc"ledin Amcrica>2l4;
common in that country, ibid.

Bofton, environs of, 400 ; fituation, 401 ; har-
bour, 402; indifference of the inhabitr.nts
in regard to fortifications, 403 ; their man-
ners, 407 ; enterprifing fpirit and trade, 40;l ;
Shipping, 479; exports and impoits, ibid..

Bouchctte, Captain, ^commander of the naval

force

N D E X.

force on Lake Ontario, 290; a Canadian by
birth, ibid.

Boui, dtate of Mr. dc, 158; his hiftory, ibid.

Brant, Colonel, Englifh agent with the Indians,
252 ; poflefles much influence over the In-
dians, ibid.; bears an excellent character,

Brigadier's ifland, account of, 437.
Briflol, account of the port of, 503.
Broadbay, defcription of the townfhip of, 451.
Brompton^, Fort, account of, 346.
Brotherfarmer, chief of the Seneca Indians, 174.
Brown, John, the richeft merchant of Provi-

dence> 508.

Brunfwick, account of the townfhip of, 456.
Brunfwick,. defcription of the town of, 547 ;- its

trade, 548.
Buffalo Creek, account of the Indian fettlement

of, 174, 185.
Burlington Bay, 260.

Burr, eftate of Colonel, 545 ; his character, ib.
Butler, Colonel, Englifh agent with the Tufca-

rora- Indians, 250 ; a native of America, 251 ;

how rewarded for his loyalty, ibid'.

Caldwell;. James, pofTeflbr of extenfive works at

Albany, 371; 372.
Cambridge, defeription- of the Univerfity of,

406.

Camps, Indian, 151.
Canada, drvifion into Upper and Lower when

made, 226'; new form of government, 227 ;

leading articles of the new conftitution, 228 ;

remarks on this confutation, 257 ; on the

feparation of Canada from Great Britain,

270, 308 ; butrhenfome to England, 288,

308 ; trade, 316; exports and imports, ibid.

want of learned men and literary fbcieties,

320.
Canada, Lower, education neglected in, 318;

juftice, how adminiftered, 319; climate,

320; provifions cheap, 321 .
Canada Creek, 354.
Canadians, much attached to France, 239, 306;

character, 2Q3, 304; how generally em-

ployed, 304; good feamen, ibid.; are dif-
liked by the Englifh, 305, 307 ; ignorant,
305 ; well-treated by the Britifh government,
306; indifferent hufbandmen, 310; their
political opinions.

Caimans, numerous in South Carolina, 600;
account of this fpecies of crocodiles, ibid.

Canal, joining the Schuylkill with the Dela-
ware, 15; near the Little Falls, 362; by
St. George's River, 426; through the rice-
fwamps in the townfhip of St. Paul, 596.

Canandaqua, lake of, 145.

Canandaqua, chief town of the county of On-
tario, 154; its fituation, ibid.

Canawaga, town of, 161 ; its fituation, ibid.

Cape Ann, defcription of, 417 ; how the cod-
fifh are dried there, ibid.; account of the
fifhery, ibid.; road, 41.8 ; trade and exports,
ibid.

Carolina, North, defcription of, 632; h-iftory,
ibid.; conftitution, 633; public expendi-
ture, 634; taxes, ibid.; public debt, 635;
divifion, ibid. ; inland navigation, ibid. ;
harbours, ibid.; trade, 636 ; exports, 637;
.eh'mate, 638 ; difeafes, ib.; religious feels,
639.

Carolina, South, hiftory of, 555 ; conftitution,
559, 560,561 ; laws, 562; penal code, 563 ;
military regulation, 566, 567; taxes, 568 ;
how aflefled and collected, 569; public ex-
penditure, ibid".; roads, ibid.; public debt,
570; pay of the officers, 571 ; paper-mo-
ney, 572; banks, ibid. 573, 574; division,
575; climate, 577; fchools and education,
580; manufactories, 581; price of {hips,
ibid.; markets, 582.

Cafco, defcription of the bay of, 457-

Caftle-Ifland, convict* confined in, 405.
-Cefar, a negro, difcovered a remedy agoinft the
bite of the rattle-fnake, . 5o9 ; how reward-
ed, ibid.

Charlefton,departurefromPhiladelphia for, 552,
its fituation, 554; hiftory, 555;. buildings,
556; inhabitants, 557; their manners and cuf-
toms, 558 ; political fentimcnts, ibid, 559 ;
conftitution., ibid. 560, 56 1; laws, 562;

work-

INDEX.

workhoufe, ibid.; prifons, 565 ; population,
ibid., negro market, 575; difeafes, 578 ; po-
lice, 579 5 library, 583 ; imports and ex-
perts, 62/, to 630.

Chelfea, account of the port of, 514.

Chippaway Fort, defcription of, 221.

I'hippaway frigate, building expence of the,
217.

Cohoez Falls, defcription of the, 379, 380.

Coinage, flandard of, in New York, 101 ;. in
Pennfylvania, ibid.

Connecticut, trade of, 613, 534, 535; hiftory,
constitution, and laws, 524 to 527 inclufive;
police. 528 ; religious worfhip, ibid. 529;
militia, 532; taxes, ibid. 533, 534: popu-
lation, 535; inhabitants, 53b'.

Cooper, character of Mr. 76; chief object of
his account of America, ibid.; afpires at a
feat in Congrefs, ibid.

Cotton, culture of, in Georgia, 604.

County-rates, in Montgomery, 14; diftrict of
Providence, 17; Reading, 27 ; State of New
York, 105; townfhip of Saratoga, 376. .

Couteux, character of Mr. le, 38.4. .

Crabgrals, in South Carolina, 589.

Cnmkford, account of the townlhip: of, 4-38.

Greigh, Dr. proprietor of the medicinal fpnng
of Lebanon, 394.

Crooked Lake, defcription of r .109; .

Damafco Bay, account of, 452.

Dances, defcription of Indian, 249-.

Deals, price of, at Mac-Alifter's mill, 56; in
Northumberland, 71 ; at Captain William-
fon'smill, 139; at Dutchmill, 294.

Deiertion of the Britifh troops in Canada, caufes
of the, 255.

D^fjardins, Mr. owner of large eftates in Hun-
jjcrbay, 351.

Detroit, fort, defcription of, 213.

Detroit, a French lettlement, 239;

Difeafcs, prevalent among the Indians, 180.

Dobfon, Major, commanding officer in King-
fton, 299 ; on board his barge the author
proceeds to the American coaft, ibid.

Dorchefter, Lord, Governor-General of BritHh
America, 227 ; his project, concerning t^.e -
feat of government of Upper Canada, 276 ;
prohibits the author to proceed to Lower
Canada, 298 ; his adminiftration marked
with mildnels and juftice, 308 ; his charac- -
ter, 321.

Dover, capital of the county of Watcrford, 467;
its fituation, ibid.; population, ibid.

Draytonhall, an eftate belonging to Dr. Dray-
ton, 591.

Dret's, obfervations on, 2~3.

Drunkennefs, the' prevailing vice in America,
68.-

Ducks' Iflands, defcription of, 272.

Ducktrap, (hip-building at, 432; fifhery, ibid.

Dupetitthouars, travelling companion of the
author, 355.

E. .
Earl, Lieutenant, commander of the Onondago

cutter, 273,275.
Education, greatly neglected in Lower Canada,

318.

Elem, farm of Samuel, 495, 496.
Elizabethtown, account of the townftup of,

543.
Elworth, Mr. Chief-juftice of the LTnited States,

552.
Emigration, frequent in America, 107; its

caufes, 108.
Englifh navy, force of the, in Upper Canada,

289 5 *hips built of timber frefh cut down,

ibid.; provilion of (hip-timber eafily made

for many years to come, 290.
Ephrata; village of, 35.
Epifeopal church, the eftablifhed religion in

Upper Canada, 26'5, 285.
Equality, on American, 23, 44, 66, 68, 553.
Erie, Lake, 186.
Erie, village of Lake, 1? ; ">.
Erie, fort, defcription of, 214, 21 6.
Eftates, uncertainty of the poflcffion thereof

about Wilkfbarre, Huntsferry, &c. 85.
Euftis, Dr. of Bofton, his character and political

principles, 430.

INDEX.

F&irfield, account of the trade and exports of,
538.

.Farmers, prejudices of the American, 6, 31, 32,
49,66, 72, 119.

Fayette, La, much refpedled in America, 54,
366.

Ferry-boats, badly conftructed in America, 81.

yiemrm'ng, hiftory of Peggy, 209.

Florida, account of, 61 1, 613, 614 ; its poffef-
fion ufelefs to Spain, 614; fhould be ceded
to France, 615.

Flonr, price of, at Robertfon's, 8 ; in Norrif-
town, 14; Kentucky, 46; Geneffee, 121 ;
near Fortymile Creek, 259 ; at Kingfton,
281 ; Rotterdam, 348 ; New Bedford, 493.

Fortymile Creek, 258.

Frey, defcription of the mill of Mr. 49-

French, on the conquefts of the, 60.

French revolution, fentiments of the author re-
fpefting the, 262, 300.

Friendfmill, defcription of, 110.

Friends fettlement, account of, 1 10.

Fur-trade, participation of the Americans in
the, 17, 234, 310; how carried on with
the Indians in the Illinois, 296; is the only
branch of commerce belonging to Canada,
309 5 how carried on between Canada and
Europe, 310; moft important places in
America for that trade, 325; how many
bundles of peltry collected in each, ibid.;
by whom the trade is carried on, 326, 328 ;
account of the expence and proceeds, 330 ;
total amount, 331 ; how carried on by the
Ruffians, 415.

Geneffee Flats, regular inundation of the, 153 ;
their lituation, ibid.; belong for the moft
part to the Indians, 154; attempts to fpoil
them of their property, ibid.

Geneftee, falls of the river, 166.

German Flats, defcription of the, 359.

Gerbier, hi (lory of Mr. 20.

Glavery, eft ate of 'Squire, 430.

Glocefter, account of the town of, 413 ; its
fifhery and trade, ibid.; fituation, 419.

Gneifs, rocks of, near Philadelphia, 137.

Goldhue, Mr. member of the Congrefs, 476.

Goofe Creek, account of, 588.

Gouvernet, eftate of Mr. de, 383; qhara&er of
his wife, ibid.

Granite, between Roxborough and Philadel-
phia, 16; between Harrifburg and Sunbury,
63 ; interfperfed with mica near Philadel-
phia, 187 ; of a reddim colour on the plain
of Newark, 3 1 1 ; in Thoufand Iflands, 323 ;
near Montreal, ibid.; between Ofwego and
Albany, 366.

Green, eftate of Mr. 259.

Green, acceunt of General, 500 ; his exploit*,
ib.; moral character, 501 ; monument erecl-
ed in his memory by order of Congrefs, ib.

Guillemard, Mr. travelling companion of the
author, 2, 2^3 ; his journal of Lower Ca,-
nada, 312.

Hallowell, defcription of the town of, 455.

Hammond, Mr. Englifh minifter at the United
States, 298.

Hamilton, Captain, commandant of Fort Chip-
paway, 218, 221.

Hamilton, Mr. member of the legiflature of
Upper Canada, 225.

Hamilton, Mr. member of Congrefs, account of
his public and private character, 544, 545.

Hannah, Brigadier-General, 54.

Harris, Mr. founder of Harrifburg, 54.

Harrifburg, account of the town of, 50 ; chief
town of the county of Dauphin, 51 ; has no
anchoring-place, ibid.; unhealthinels of the
town, 52; a mill-dam detlroyed by the in-
habitants, ibid.

Hartfor,d account of the town of, 516, the
chief place in Connecticut, 517; its popu-
lation, ibid.; trade and {hipping, ib.; bank,
519-

Harvcft, defcription of a French, 360.

Hary, a beverage prepared for the kings and
chiefs of the Marquefa Iflands, 412.

Hemp, growing wild on the banks of Lake On-
tario, 292.

INDEX.

HeTTian fly, pernicious to grain, 365 ; efpecially

to wheat, 547-

Hingham, an eftate of General Lincoln, 481.
Homicide, how atoned for among the Indians,

178.
Hudfon, defcription of the banks of the river,

577.
Hunter, fort, account of, 56.

Jacobin club at Charleston, 384; downfall of
Jacobin clubs in America, 43.

Jay, political fyftem and conduct of Mr. 544.

JefFery, Mr. an eminent merchant of Bofton,
480.

Illinois, fettlement on the, a large depot for the
fur-trade, 296.

Indian-corn, price of, at Robertfon's, 6; Ange-
lico, 34; in Kentucky, 46; Painted Poft,
107; GendTee, 121; Watkinftown, 145;
county of Maine, 428 ; exhaufts the foil, 71 .

Indians, delineation of the manners and cuftoms
of the, 156, 167, 175, 177, 180, 182, 194,
208,266,292; well defcribed by Charle-
vobt, 269 ; rendered "brutal and debauched
by white people, 149; their price, when
murdered by the latter, ibid.; employed to
apprehend Britim deferters, 291 ; their lan-
guage and fpeeches, 181.

Ingraham's lilands, account of the, 413.

Inns, very numerous in Ibme parts of America,
53.

Inviolability, places of, among the Indians, 182.

Johnfon, hiftory of Mr. 190.

Johnftown, capital of the county of Montgo-
mery, 363 ; its population, ibicl.

Ipfwich, account of the village of, 4-74.

Ifard, Mr. late member of Congrefs, 585 ; his
eftates in South Carolina, 586; a zealous ad-
vocate for flavery, 587.

Juftice, how adminiftered in Lower Canada,
319-

K.ennebec, account of the river, 455.

Kentucky, prefent ftate of, 46" ; produce of the
land, ibid.; population, ibid.

Kiiigfton, ntuation of the town of, 275 ; de-
fcription of the town, ibid. 2/6, 279; in-
tended by Lord Dorchefter to become the.
feat of government of Upper Canada, ibid.;
difapproved of by General Sirncoe, ibid.;
a ftaple port, 279.

Knox, General, description of his eftate, 416;
fituation of the houfe, 420 ; his plans and
projects, 423 ; his character, 44^.

Labour, price of, at Robertfon's, 6 ; at Legaux,
1 1 ; in the diftnct of Providence, 17; about
Reading, 23 ; at Angelico, 33, 34 ; at Lan-
cafter, 42; Middldton, 50 ; Harrifburg, 53 ;
Mac-Alifter's farm, 55 : about Northum-
berland, 71 ; at Afylum, 96 ; in the diftrict.
ofNewtown, 103; at Painted Poft, 107;
in Geneflee, 121 ; in the diftrict of Canan-
daqua, 147 ; on the eftate of Mr. Pitt, 151 ;
in the Geneflee Flats, 153 ; in and near
Chippaway, 224 ; near Fortymile Creek,
259 ; in the diftrict of Kingfton, 281, 286 ;
at Rotterdam, 348 ; in Schuylertown, 358;
near the Little Falls, 362 ; at Albany, 372;
in the townmip of Saratoga, 376 ; at Marl-
borough, 399 5 in the county of Maine,
428 ; in the diftrict of Brunfwick, 457 ; in
the vicinity of Portfmouth, 469 ; in the
townfhip of New Bedford, 493 ; in Connec-
ticut, 513 ; about Newhaven, 523.

Lancafter, arrival at, 39 ; its fituation and fize,
40 ; population, 41 ; produce of the land,
42; general diipoiition of the inhabitants,
43 ; democratic ibciety, ib.; churches, 44.

Land, price of, at Norriftown, 14 ; in the dif-
trict of Providence, 17 ; about Reading, 23 ;
at Reading, 28 ; at Lancafter, 41 ; in Ken-
tucky, 46 ; about Maytown, 47 ; at Middle-
ton, 50; Harrifburg, JS ; in the vicinity of
Mac-Alifter's farm, 55 ; at Deblerf 's, 60 ;
at White's, 61 ; about Northumberland, 70;
at Afylum, 95 ; about Tioga, 99 ; in the
diftrict of Newtown, 102 ; at Painted Poft,
106; in Captain Williamibn's fettlement,
132 ; in the diitrict of Canandaqua, 147 ;

INDEX.

:t Canawaga, 16 1 ; near Chippaway, 234 ;

near Fortymile Creek, 259; in the diiliict of

Kingfton, 284; in the Ifland of Montreal,
311 ; average price in Lower Canada, 314;
at Rotterdam, 318 ; on the Mohiiwk river,
-386; in Schuylertown, 358; in the Ger-
man Flatts, 360; at Albany, 371 ; near Sa-

ratoga, 375 ', between Albany and Stephen-
town, 388 ; at Lebanon, 304; in the vici-

, nity of Portland, 462; near Portfmouth,
4^9; at Hingham, 432 ; in the townfliip of
*sTew Bedford, 403; in Rhode-Ifland, 497;
in Connecticut, 513,617; about Newha-
ven, 523.

Land, produce of the, about Northumberland,
71; at Afylum, y5; at 'Squire Mac-Cor-
mick's, 104; on Robinfon's eftate, 119 ; in
Canandaqua, 147; Geneflee Flats, 153; at
Mountmorris, 157; near Fortymile Creek,
259; in Schuylertown, 358; on the Mo-
hawk River, 379; in the diftrict of Broad-
bay, 451 ; ProfpecT:, 436 ; Crankford, 438;
Brunfwick, 457 ; Biddeford, 463 ; Portf-
mouth, 469; Hingham, 482; Rhode-Ifland,
494; Newhaven, 523.

Langdon, Mr. a fenator, 471; poflefled of a
powerful interell at Portfmouth, ibid.; op-
pofed the ratification of the treaty of com-
merce between Great Britain and America,
ibid.

Lebanon, medicinal fpring and Situation of,
389, 394, 515; its population, ibid.

Legaux, farm of Mr. 10 ; his cottage _and vine-
yard, 11; his litigious dilpolition.

Leger's, Colonel St. attack on Fort Stanwix,
355.

Legiflature of Upper Canada, opening of the,
255; General Simcoe's fpeech on proguing
the fifth fcffion, 641.

LegrQature of Canada, the debates of the, car-
ried on in the Englifti and French language,
306.

Limeftone, ftrata of, between Roxborough and
Norriftovvn, 16; near Lancafter, 38 ; in the
vicinity of Philadelphia, 187; near Read-
ing, 183; at the cataract of Niagara, 311;

in Palatine county, 367; county of Maine,
420.

Lincoln, account of General, "481 .

Literary focieties in the United States, how
they mould render themfelves ufeful, 583.

Little Falls, defcriptioB of the, 3,61 .

Littlehales, Major, adjutant and firfl fecre-
tary of General Simcoe, 271 ; poflefles the
confidence of the country, ibid.

London, account of the town of New, 510;
principal fea- port -town in Connecticut,
511; its trade and flipping, ibid.; ex-
ports, ibid.; fimery, 513; population, ibid.;
bank, ibid.

Loretto, an Indian village, 322 ; characters and
manners of its inhabitants, ibid.

Lotteries, pernicious confequences of, 16.

Louifiana, account of, 615; advantages likely
to accrue to France from the poiTeffion of
that country, ibid. 617 ; fyftem oi the Spa-
nifh government, 617.

Luxembourg, Prince of, fold a frigate to the
State of South Carolina, 570.

Lynn, account of the port of, 477; its {hoe-
man ufadory, 478.

Mac-Alifter, an induftrious farmer, 54; defcrip-
tion of his farm and mill, 55, 56 ; fituation
of his fettlement, 56.

Mac-Cormick, eftate of 'Squire, 104.

Mac- Donald, Intendant-general of Upper Ca-
nada, 302 ; his manner of tranfafting bufi-
nefs, 301 ; pay, ibid.

Maine, account of, 419> 420, 443, 447; its
trade and navigation, ibid.; abounds with
limeftone, 420 ; price of wood, 444 ; hif-
tory, 465 ; population, 466.

Manners, delineation of American, 60 to 66,
68, 100, 104, 107,150, 162, 165, 395, 399.

Maple-fugar, at Afylum, 96 ; its price at Painted
Port, 107 ; made in large quantities in Ge-
nerlee, 125 ; medium produce of the fugar
maple-tree, ibid.; method of making the
maple-fugar, treacle, and vinegar, ib.; pro-
duced in great quantities in the Geneflee

Flats,

INDEX.

Flats, 153 ; its price there, ib. ; neglected in
the diftricl of Kingfton, 283 ; prepared in
great quantities in Lower Canada, ibid.

Marble, quarries of, near Norriitown, 16', 187 ;
flrata of very good marble neur Philadel-
phia, 187-

Marblehead, account of the port of, 477; its
exports, ibid.

Marine fubftances, ftrata of, 189.

MafTachul'etts, in a high ftate of cultivation,
3<)6 ; laws, civil and criminal, 405 ; taxes,
406' ; vexatious proceedings of the commif-
fioners, ibid.

Maytown, village of, 47 ; inhabited by Ger-
mans, ibid.

Meadows, average produce of, at Robertfon's,
6'; price of, at Reading, 28 ; produce of, at
Angelico, 32; Mac-Alifler's farm, 55; in
Geneflee, 120; Kingfton, 283 ; Marlboro',
398 ; BMdeford, 463 ; Rhode Inand, 494.

Medical Society at Charlefton, 582.

Merchandize, imported into Canada on behalf
of the fur-trade, 330 ; how fold, ibid ; ex-
ported from Canada in 1786% 332; imported
into Canada, 334.

Metcalf, ettate of Captain, 145.

Meteorological obfervations at Albany, 387 ; in
the county of Maine, 423 ; South Carolina,
576, 577.

Michard, a French botanift refiding in South
Carolina, 589.

Michillimakkinak, an important place for the
fur trade, 327, 328.

Middleton, account of the town of, 520 ; ex-
ports, ibid ; bank, ibid.

Middletown, fituation of, 48 ; corn and meal-
trade of the place, 49-

Miller, Rachel, a votary and companion of Je-
mima Wilkinfon, 112.

Minerals, account of the, between Ofwego and
Albany, 366 ; between Saratoga and Al-
bany, 380 ; on the coaft of Maflachufetts,
New Hampshire and Maine, 539, 540, 541 .

Mohawk river, account of the navigation of,
,357.

.Money, love of, prevalent in the United State*,
65, 149 5 its principal caufcs, 66.

Montreal, account of, 315.

Morrifville, town of, 550.

Mountains, Blue, account of the, 57.

Mounttnorris, an Indian village, 155.

Mules, considerable trade with, carried on in the
United States, 378.

N.
Navigation, fums raifed by a lottery for inland,

16.
Newark, fituation of the town of, 254; the only

newfpaper in Upper Canada, printed there,

264; has no church, 265.
Newark, one of the fineft villages in America,

545 ; the ufual ftage between Philadelphia

and New \ ork, ibid. ; famous for its cyder,

ib. ; and extenfive (hoe-man ufa&ories, 546.
New Bedfrd, townfhip of, 486; its exports and

{hip-building, 488.
New Bedford, part of, 491, 492; its trade and

Clipping, 492.

Newbury, account of the port of, 472.
Newcaftle, townfhip of, 452.
New City, account of the town of, 369 370,

379-

Newhaven, account of the town of, 521 ; its
trade and (hipping, 522; exports, ib. ; bank,
523; college, &24; the freedom of the town
conferred upon the author, 536.

Newport, account of the town of, 497 ; its po-
pulation, 498 ; trade, ibid ; buildings, 499-

Newtown, fituation of, 102.

Niagara, defcription of the cataraft of, 218 ;
(hould be viewed from Tablerock, 222.

Niagara, Fort, account of, 257 ; has been fur-
rendered up to the United States, ibid.

Niagara, Lake and River, 253 ; abound with
fifh, ibid.

Nicholfon, account of the iron-works, button-
manufaftory and glaisboufe of Mr. 4.

Nichol Ton's bank of one million of acres of
land, 88.

Nobleborough, account of the townfhip of, 4?>2.
4 Q Xootka

I y D E

Nootfka Sound, fituation of, 414; fur-trade of
the inhabitants, ibid.

Norris, fettlement of Mr. 123.

Norriftown, fituation and buildings of, 13 ; pri-
fon, ibid. ; why the prif oners attempt not
to efcape, 14.

Northampton, defcription of the town -of, 396;
capital of the county of Hampshire, ibid.

Northumberland, account of the county of, 72.

Northumberland, town of, 69; delightfully fi-
tuated on the Sufquehannah, ibid. ; confifts
chiefly of log-houfes, 70 ; political fenti-
ments of the inhabitants, 73 ; the rcfidence
of Dr. Prieftley, ibid.

North weal company, when formed, 326; by
whom, ibid.

North Yarmouth, account of the town of, 458.

Norwich, bank of, 514; population, 515.

Nunneries in Lower Canada, account of the,
317.

Oats, price of, about Tioga, 99; in the town-
fhip of Newtown, 1 03 ; at Painted Poft,
107 ; in the county of Maine, 428.

Oneida Indians, enjoy an annuity from the Hate
of New York, 352.

Cneida, Lake, account of, 351.

0neida refervation, fold to the ftate of New
York, 352.

Onondago cutter, burthen of the, 271; the au-
thor embarks for Kingfton on board this
cutter, ibid; is commanded by Lieutenant
Earl, 273.

Opinions, on the political, prevailing in Ame-
rica, 65.

Oiwego Fort, account of, 300, 311 ; defertion
prevalent among the garrifon, 303 ; depar-
ture from, 337.

Ofwego, river, navigation of, 338 ; falls, 340,
341.

Otters, \vhere found in America, 415.

Otter-fkins, price of, on the wellern coafts of
America, 415 ; in Canton, ibid.

Oxen, price of a yoke of, about Old Shufhequen,
198; at Painted Poft, 107; in Geneflee, 121;
Kiagfton, 282 ; county of Maine, 428.

Pachiomming, Creek, 17.
Painted Poft, account of the town of, lOo.
Paper money, unlverfally received in Upper Ca
nada, 217.

Parker, 'Squire, a votary and Companion of Je-
mima Wilkinfon, 116; aflfumed the name
of Prophet Elijah, 117.

Parr, Captain, commanding officer in Kingftoaj
287.

Peace, how concluded by the Indians, 182.

Pearl afh, method of preparing, 386'.

Peltry, fine, what is called fo, 325; mixed, ib.;
fineft, where collected, ibid; value thereof,
329 ; amount thereof exported from Canada
in 1/86, 333.

Penobfcot, account of the bay of, 429 ; (hip
building, 430.

Penobfcot, the capital of the county of Han-
cock, 441 ; its trade and exports, ibid.

Peyfel, Conrad, founder of the order of Tun*
kers, 36.

Philadelphia, departure from, 2; country-houfes
in the vicinity of, 3.

Phlyn, hiftory of William, 212.

Phyficians, their fees in the United States, 18 ;
are fcarce in the county of Maine, 448.

Pindairn, a negro, poffeffor of a plantation, 602.

Pine-barrens, in South Carolina, 589.

Pitt, eflate of Mr. 150; its flock and produce,.
151.

Pittsfield, account of the town of, 395.

Planks, price of, at Mac-Alifter's mill, 56; in
Northumberland, 71 ; at Williamfon's mill,
139; Dutchmill, 204.

Plafler of Paris, mixed with the feed, 56.

Plymouth, population of the county of, 486.

Plymouth, account of the town of, 484; its trade
and (hipping, ibid ; exports, 485.

Polony, Dr. of Charleiton, 585 ; has ready for
the prefs a work on St; Domingo, ibid.

Poor-rates, unknown at Roxborough, 8 ; and
in the diftridl of Kingfton, 286;. their
amount in Montgomery, 15 ; in the ftate of
New York, 106; county of Ontario, ibid ;

county

I N. D E X.

county of Herkcmer, 35.9 ; townfliip of Sa-
ratoga, 376.

"Poplar, Italian, introduced into America, 47.
Portland, fituation of, 459 ; defcription of the

town, ibid. ; its trade and {hipping, 46'1 ;

exports, ibid.
Portfmouth, fituation of, 463 ; the only harbour

in New Hampfhire, ibid. ; its trade and

(hipping, ibid. ; {hip-building, 46.9.
Potafli-works in the United States, defcription

of, 384; manner of preparing the potam,

385 ; how fold, 386.

Potter, eftate of Mr. 124; his character, ibid.
Pottfgrove, country about, 19; account of the

place, 20.

Pratt, Major, commandant of Fort Erie, 214.
Frieftley, Dr. residence of, 74 ; his perfecution,

ibid. ; his occupation, &c. in America, ib. ;

buiied in the inftitution of a college, 75.
Prieftley, Jofeph, eldeft fon of Dr. Prieftley, his

induftrious purfuits, 75.

Princetown, account of, 748 ; its college, ibid.
Pringle, eftate of Mr. 599 ; a planter of exten-

five knowledge, 601.

Profpect, account of the townfhip of, 436, 437.
Proteftant clergy, a fcventh part of the lands in

Upper Canada allotted to the fupport of

the, 265.
Providence, account of the town of, 497 ; its

population, 498 ; trade, ib.; environs, 504;

lituation, ib. ; manufactories, 50a ; {hipping,

506; taxes, ib, 507-
Puddingftone, large mafTesof, near Reading, 188.

Quebec, account of, 815 ; feminary in that city,
by whom kept, 318; how fupported, ibid. ;
public library, 320.

^uinaboug, account of the cataract of, 514.

Rattlefnake, defcription of a, 173; bite not
dangerous in the njarth of the United States,
1/4, 181 ; how cured, ibkl; its flough dried
and pulverized ufed as a cleanfer of the
-Wood, ibid, ; is much dreaded in South Ca-

rolina, 594; its bite more dangerous here
than in the Northern States, ibid. ; its
ufual cure, 595.

Reading, town of, 24; its fituation, ibid.; ma-
nufactories, 25; population, ibid.; liti^i-
oufnefs of the inhabitants, ibid. ; churches
and minifters, 26 ; indifference of the inha-
bitants in point of religion, ibid. ; their pub-
lic fpirit, 27; corn-trade, 28.

Red Jacket, a celebrated warrior among the Se-
neca Indians, 148.

Renffclaar, Van, Lieutenant Governor of New
York, 388 ; generally called the patron, ib.

Rhode Ifland, defcription of the ftate of, 494,
495 ; caufes of the poverty of the farmers,
496, 497 ; religions worftu'p, 499 ; political
opinions, ib. 506 ; population, ib. ; bank,'
509.

Rice, wild, 292.

Rice, culture of, in South Carolina, 587 ; in
Lower Carolina, 619 to 624; improvements
made in South Carolina, 596.

Rice fwamps in South Carolina, 575 ; their di-
vifion into thle-fwamps and inland fwamps,
ibid.; their price, 598.

Roads, neglected in Pennfylvania, 68 ; hovfr
kept in repair in thediftrict of Kingfton,287.

Roberts, Captain, voyage to the South Sea and
weftern coaft of America, 409 ; object of
this voyage, made on board the Jefferfbn,
ibid. 110.

Robertfon, houfe and mill of Mr. 6.

Robinfon, eltate of Benedix, 118; its produce,
120.

Roman Catholic religion, the eftablifhed churcfc
in Lower Canada, 317.

Rotterdam, account of the town of, 347-

Roxborough, county-rates and taxes at, 8,

Rum, ufe of, pernicious to the Indians, 252.

Rupelmonde, account of 602, 603.

Rufli, William, eflabliflied the whale-fifliery at
Dunkirk, 492.

Ruffd, Thomas, one of the wealthieft merchants
of America, 481.

Rye, price of, about Old Shuflieqnen, 98 ; at

Tioga, 99; in thexliftrid of Xcwtown, lOJj

4O 2 at

INDEX.

at Painted Puft, 107 , in Geneffee, 121 ;
county of Maine, -428.

Salem, account of the town of, 474 ; its trade,
ibid.; fhipping, 475 ; capital of the county
of Eflex, 477 ; its manufactories, ibid.

Sandwich Hands, account of the manners of the
inhabitants of the, 414.

Santee canal, account of the, 63 r.

Saratoga, defcriptron of, 373 ; capture of an Eng-
Jifli army under General Burgoyne, ib.; de-
fcription of the Englifli and American camps,
ibid.; medicinal fpring, 378.

Savannah, flave-trade of, 605; d'Eftaing's defeat
near that town, 610.

Scituate, account of the townfliip of, 509.

Schipac Creek, 17.

Schift, quarze ores, near Lancafler, 43.

Schools, very fcarce in Pennfylvania, 98 ; and
New York, 106; in Lower Canada, kept by
nuns, 318; Maflachufetts, 406; in Connec-
ticut, 529, 530; in South Carolina, 580.

Schreiber, Mr. founder of a large fettlement be-
tween Lake Ontario and Lake Oneida, 347.

SchuKz, eftate of Colonel, 438.

Schuyler, General, his character and influence,

372,373-
Schuyler, houfe of Mr. John, 373; fituated on

the fpot, where General Burgoyne furren-

dered to General Gates, 474; his eftate, 375 ;

character, 376; death, 377.
Schuylertown, fettlement of, 358.
Schuylertown, capital of the county of Herkemer,

359; its population, ibid.
Schuylkill, falls of the, 4; banks, 18; is to be

joined with the Suatara by a canal, 48.
Seneca Lake, 122: its banks, 123; navigation of

the lake, 124.
Seneca Indians, drefs and manners of the, 148;

pay a vifit to Mr. Chipping, the American

agent, ib.
Servants, great fcarcity of, in the United States

and Canada, 254.

Settlers, firft operations of new, 58, 163.
Seward, Major, commandant of Fort Niagara,

258.

Shakers, defcription of the fociety c ailed, 3^9 ;
their fettlement in Lebanon, ib.; their reli-
gion and worfhip, 391 ; drefs, ibid.; garden,
393; hiftory of the fociety, 394.
Shefhequen, New, town of, 98.
Ship-building, price of, in Albany, 369 ; in the
townfhip of Belfaft, 440; on St. George's
River, 424, 425, 427.
Simcoe, General, Lieuteiiant-Governor of Upper
Canada, 229 ; why he accepted that place,
ibid.; his plan for fettling and peopling Up-
per Canada, ibid. 231, 275; his project of
removing the feat of government to the banks
of the river La Franche or Thames, 230 ; his
maxims of government, 233 ; opinion on the
fur-trade, 233, 234; plan of military opera-
tions, 235, 240; projects and views, 235;
mifcalculations, 239; fentiments in regard to
the United States, 240; receives a vifit of
Indians, 250, 253 ; his projedl of giving a
half civilization to the Indian tribes, 251;
vifits an Indian village, 266 ; his fpeech on
that occafion, ibid.
Skeneclady, account of the town of, 364; its fitua-

tion and trade, 365 ; population, ibid.
Skuyl, hiftorv of James, 210.
Slaves, on the condition of, in the State of New

York, 376.

Slave-trade, carried on by the town of Provi-
dence, 505, 506; by Connecticut, 531; Jer-
fey, 543, 544; South Carolina, 464 to 566 ;
at Savannah, 605.

Smith, Lieutenjnt-Colonel, of tbe fifth regiment,
254; his houfe at Newark, ibid.; is clearing
five hundred acres land, ibid.
Snakcroot, the juice of, a fpecific remedy againft

the bite of the rattle-fnake, 143.
Sorrel, river, account of the, 323.
South Sea, voyage of Captain Robert to the, 410.
Spanifh pofleilions in North America, account

of the, 6 1 1 .

Specie, fcarce in Upper Canada, 216.
Speculation in land, very prc., ; jle in the United

States, 72, 144-
Springmill, account of, 10.
Spruce-fir, peculiarly fit for fliip-building, 433.

Squawhill,

INDEX.

Squawhill, an Indian village, i$$.

Starret, eflate of Colonel, 102.

Steward, Mr. curate of Kingfton, 2845 how he
leafed out his lands, 285.

Stillwater, defrription of the townfllip of, 377.

Stockfifli, large quantities of, furniftied by the
coaft of JVIaflachufetts and the diftrict of
Maine, 418.

Store, Captain, defcription of his mill, called
Dutchmill, 293.

Suatara river, account of the, 49.

Sumac, grows in great plenty about New Lon-
don, 512; its preparation for the purpofes of
dying, ibid.

Sunbury, town of, 63; its iituation on the Suf-
quehannah, ibid.

Suppers in America, of what they generally con-
lift, 62, 104.

Surgeons, numerous in the diftrict of Providence,
18; their fees, ibid.; are in fmall number in
the diftrict of Kingfton, 286; and in the
county of Maine, 448.

Sufquehannah, rapids of the river, 47 ; its banks,
48 ; navigation.

Talafking, a celebrated Indian warrior, 608; his
character, 609.

Taxes, account of the, in Montgomery, 14; dif-
trict of Providence, 1 7 ; Reading, 27 ; county
of Dauphin, 535 State of New York, 105;
county of Herkemer, 359; townfhip of Sa-
ratoga, 376; Marlborough, 399; Maflachu-
fetts, 406 ; county of Maine, 447 , at Bof-
ton, 480 ; in Connecticut, 528.

Ternay, monument erected to the Chevalier de,
500.

Thaga, fields bordered with, 10.

Thatcher, character of Mr. 462, 463.

Thomaflown, in the county of Lincoln, account
of, 452.

Thompfon, Juftice, defcription of his eftate, 378.

Three Rivet-. Point, account of, 343.

Tioga, town and :iver of, 99; its trade hurt by
that of Afylum, ibid.

Tioga, fan of General Simcoe, named fo by the
Mohawks, 253.

Tonowante, account of the Indian village of, 172.

Touzy, an Englifh clergyman in Quebec, 315;
occupied in clearing about feven thoufand
acres of land, ibid.

Trap, account of the village of, 17.

Treaty of commerce between Great Britain and
the United States, remarks on the, 381, 408,
470, 485, 544, 559.

Trees, fpecies of, between Lancafter and May-
town, 46 ; between Harrilburg and Sunbury,
63; about Loyalfock and Alylum, 95; iti
the difti ict of Watkinftown, 145 ; Upper Ca-
nada, 3125 townfllip of Saratoga, 380; county
of Maine, 542; South Carolina, 588, 589;
in Florida, 613.

Trenton, account of, 549.

Troy, defcription of, 369, 370, 379.

Trumbul, member of the Congrefs, 516} bro-
ther of the painter of that name, ibid.

Tulpechocken creek, 62.

Tunkerg, order of, 35 ; doctrines and hiftory'of
the order, ibid.

Turkey buzzard, a very ufeful bird in South
Carolina, 537.

Turnips, how cultivated at Angelico, 33.

Union College, defcription of, 365.
United States, policy of the, 234.

Vanderkamp, farm of Mr. 351.
Vapour-baths, how made by the Indians, 180.
Vatines, eftate of Mr. de, 349; his character,

ibid.; his attachment to France, 350; his

hiftory, ibid.

Waitahu, one of the Marquefa Ifiands, 44 ; ac-
count of its inhabitants, ibid.

Waldoborough, account of the diftrict of, 450.

Waldopatent, a large eftate, belonging to Gene-
ral Knox, 521$ for a great part ufurped by
numerous fetlers, 422, 423.

Wampum,

D E X.

Wampum, a fort of fhells, 179 ; circulate as mo-
ney among the Indians, 1 80; ferve to draw
up records, 184.

"Warren, monument erected at Bofton ia me-
mory of the late General, 478.

Warren, General, author of a manufcript hiftory
of the American revolution, 485.

Warren, account of the port of, 503.

Wafhington, General, a diftant relation of the
Jate Prefident, 595 ; one of the moft opulent
planters, ibid.; account of his r ice- fw amps,
culture of rice, and rice-mill, ib. 596; tranf-
mits rice direct to England, 598.

Water-ford, population of the county of, 467.

Water rattle-fnake, account of the, 600.

Watkinftown, diftricl of, 144.

Watworth, Captain, eftate of, 151 to 15:3.

Wayne, army of General, ,44, 183.

Whale-fifhery, account of the the, 488 to 492.

Wheat, price of, at Robertfon's, 6 ; at Angelico,
34 ; about old Shefhequen, 98 5 atTioga, 99;
in the diftricl of Newtown, 103 ; at Painted
Poft, 107; in Geneffee, 1.21 ; Watkiriftown,
14^; in the diftricl of Canadaqua, 147; near
Fortymile Creek, 259; in the diftricl of
Kingfton, 284; in the county of Maine,
428; near Portfmouth, 469.

Whifky, diililled from rye, 56; from cyder, ib.;
,its price at Mac-Aliiter's, ib.; in the county
. of Dauphin, ibid.; mixed with water, the
.common drink in America, 68; diftillerie's
in the diftricl of Newtown, 103 ; chief object
of the trade of the Indians, 162.

NWbite-horfe.Iiin, account of the, aa.

Wilkfoarre, account of, 82; capital of the county
of Lucerne, ibid.

Wilkinfon, Jemima, leader of a feel of Quakers,
no; hiftory of Jerufalem, her eftablifhment,
between Lake Seneca and Crooked Lake,
in; description of her meeting, 112; her
doctrines, 113; her houfe, ibid.; -her hypo-
crify, ibid.; herdrefs, 115; her t\ r ay of liv-
ing, ibid.; her policy, 116; her attachment to
'Squire Parker, ibid.

Williams, family, in Marlborotigh, 398.

Williatnfburg, defcription of, 157.

Williamfon, extenfive fettlement of Captain, in
Geneflee, 128; his plan and fyftem, 129,
130; great profits, 131; terms of payment,
133 ; works at Great Sodus, 137; private
character, ibid.

Wifcaffet, the firft trading place in the county of
Maine, 453 ; its fituation, ibid.; fliipping and
trade, 454 ; exports, ibid.

Women, on the character of French, 383.

Woodbridge, account of the village of, 547.

Wood Creek, defcription of, 352, 353.

Wood-pigeons, very numerous in the county of
Maine, 542.

Wyalufing, village of, 84.

Wyalufmg Creek, 84.

York, population of the county of, 465.

York, defcription of the toxvn of, 268; intendec
as the centre of the naval force on Lake On*
tario, ibid.; an unhealthy .place, 2,78.

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AUG 23''*

* PMP

SEP 05 1980 M

MAR 2 3

1979

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| Bt GIL JUN 2 4 198Z -

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1 ! I M

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tamuio. '

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fiC. GIN. MAD

3 1980

DEC

LD 21-32m-3,'74 General Library
(R7057slO)476 A-32 University of Calif ornia rnia

(G4427BlO)476B