n 
 
 BANCROFT 
 LIBRARY 
 
 THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
TRAVELS 
 
 IN 
 
 THE COUNTRIES 
 
 BETWEEN 
 
 ALEXANDRIA AND PARiETONIUM, 
 
 €6e agliiatt Wtmt^ 
 
 SIWA, EGYPT, PALESTINE, AND SYRIA, 
 
 IX 18^1. 
 
 By dr. JOHN MARTIN AUGUSTUS SCHOLZ, 
 
 Professor of Divinity in the University of Bonn. 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 PUBLISHED BY SIR RICHARD PHILLIPS Sz Co. 
 BRIDE-COURT, BRIDGE-STREET. 
 
 1822. 
 
 [Price 3s. 6f/. sewed, or 4s. in hoards.] 
 
LONDOX: 
 
 SHACKKIif ^NI) \KROW8MnH J OH N SON's-COIJ RT. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 The resolution to undertake a journey to the East, 
 was the most prompt and the most fortunate that I ever 
 took. Knowing that a party of learned travellers in- 
 tended to visit Cyrene, Abyssinia, Arabia, Chaldca, 
 and Assyria; and that Baron Niebuhr, Privy Counsellor 
 of State, and especially General Baron Von Minutoli, 
 would provide the necessary means, I did not hesi- 
 tate a moment to join them. What could in fact be 
 more alluring, than the hope of seeing coiuitries re- 
 nowned in ancient times for their active, ingenious, 
 and enlightened inhabitants ; to explore their remain- 
 ing monuments, the view of which instructs us in their 
 works and their character ; to investigate the state of 
 the country and of the present inhabitants, the know- 
 ledge of which, is of such importance in the study of 
 antiquity? I was, indeed, destitute of the necessary 
 resources ; but hope winged my steps, and fortune, 
 which had attended me in my travels in southern Ger- 
 many, Switzerland, France, England, and Italy, 
 5miled also on my present undertaking. The liberality 
 3f his Royal Highness Prince Henry, and that of the 
 Consul General Bertoldi, supplied my pecuniary wants, 
 md obliging individuals in the East, afforded me lite- 
 'ary assistance. 
 
TRAVELS 
 
 IN THE COUNTRIES BETWEEN 
 
 ALEXANDRIA AND PARiETONlUM, 
 
 THE LYBIAN DESERT, &c. 
 IN 1821. 
 
 In the beginning of August we sailed in an Austrian brigantlne 
 from Trieste for Alexandria. The country of Istria, which is 
 seen from the sea, is among the finest in Europe ; and the beau- 
 tiful towns and villages with which the hills and valleys are 
 covered, indicate a high degree of prosperity. Most of the cap- 
 tains of the Austrian ships, now about 1,500 in number, and then* 
 crews, are from that country, Dalmatia, Ragusa, and Cataro. 
 The islands, between v/hich we sailed for several days, are very 
 well cultivated. The language of their inhabitants is the II- 
 lyrian ; but each has some peculiarity in their manners, customs 
 and dress. The inhabitants of the neighbouring continent 
 have nearly lost these, and their language is much disfigured by 
 a mixture of the Italian, which is very generally spoken and 
 Avritten in all the districts. In Trieste they for the most part 
 speak Italian, but in the environs a dialect which seems to be be- 
 tween the Italian and Illyrian. The farther you go from Trieste 
 into the interior, the purer is the language, and in Bosnia and 
 Ragusa the best Illyrian is spoken. In Ragusa they praise the 
 times of the republic, when they merely sent an annual present to 
 the Sultan, their patron, and for this, carried on with five or six 
 hundred merchantmen, under the Turkish flag, the most con- 
 siderable trade in the Mediterranean; as the Venetians in the bays 
 on this coast, where there were no duties to pay, and wjiere a 
 fleet stationed in them diffused life and activity, had a pro- 
 fitable share in the monopoly enjoyed by some cities in the Medi- 
 terranean. The dissatisfaction of tlie inhabitants of the Schis- 
 
 VoYAGE* a7id Travels, No. XLV. Fol VIII. » 
 
2 ^cholz's Travels 
 
 matic Greek ehiireh, to whieli ihree-foiirtlis of them belong, wltli 
 their present condition, is inrreaswl ))y the interference of tlie 
 government in tlie pay of their bishop, who hves at Sebeniko; 
 and \v]io is tlierefore considered as dependent on it, and licnce 
 sus)xcted. The present bisho]) is from Bosnia, appointed ])>• Mar- 
 shal Mnrmont, wlio is immediately under the pjitriarch of Constan- 
 tino})le, and nominates to the parislies and other ])enetices, citlier 
 ))U])ils educated at the seminary at Sebeniko, or monks from the 
 Basilian convents at Castel Nuovo, Zara, and \'enice. The 
 hatred of all the diocesans, i. e. Dalmatians and Boecliese,' 
 towards the excellent ])ishop Kalewietz, is manifested not only in 
 tlieir contemj)t of him on his visitation of th.e churches, but even 
 by an attempt on liis life some years a^o, on the road from Zara 
 to Se])eniko, A\hen his cavriap^e was fired into, and some persons 
 in it killed. Durini^ our twelve days' stay we made several ex- 
 cursions. Tlie Catholics have, as well at Cjistel Nuovo as at Ca- 
 taro, a Franciscan and Capuchin convent, besides the cathedral in 
 Calnro, and the parish churches in this capital, Penusto, Dobnjta, 
 and Castel Nuovo, and when the bishopric of Cataro is vacant, 
 they arc under the Bishop of Zara. 
 
 The right of retaliation is often exercised in the most cruel 
 manner by the offended family against the offender or liis re- 
 lations, as it Is in the Bannat, Bosnia, Albania, ^Moldavia, Wal- 
 lachlii, and in the East. They wear the national Sclavonian 
 dress, are generally armed, but without endangering the public 
 safety, as the plundering IMontenegrines do, and custom has pre- 
 served what oriijinated in necessity. They are obstinate, addicted 
 to spirituous liquors, fond of liberty, and attached to religious 
 prejudices: the Greeks are constantly at variance with the Catho- 
 lics, and all live chiefly by connnerce. 
 
 After .sailing from this pkice the Avind was constantly favour- 
 able, and wc saw at a chstance the coast of Albania, the Ionian 
 Islands, and the Morea, which I visited on my return. In 
 rM) dcir. ^'2 min. X. latitude, about thirty leairues from the coast 
 of the Morea, on the twenty-nmth of August, at half-j3iist one 
 V. M. while we were all standing on deck, we felt a trcnd)Hng 
 motion of the shi]), which seemed to be caused b\ an earthtjuake, 
 and lasted about half a minute. ^Vc had a slight north wind, but 
 the sea was high, tlie sky clear, and the thermometer at 25 deg. in 
 the sun. The captain of a ship from Trieste, whom I met with 
 at Ah'xandriju, told nie, that he had observed similar |)hcnomena 
 ihrev times in the summer, always near the coast of Sicily, but in 
 a much greater degree, so that wine glasses wciv overturned. 
 Exce])t some optical illusions wc saw notliing remarkable. 'I'he 
 iiortli-wi'st wind predominati'd, and tlu' nlglit dew was very heavy. 
 VVt* suiw but few ti.sh, birds verv rarelv, ami insects onlv when the 
 
in Egypt ajsd Lybia, in 1821. 3 
 
 wind blew from the shore. We were frequently impatient at the 
 delay, proceeding from the custom of the captains on these coasts, 
 of stopping, sometimes for a montli together, with their relations; 
 but it gave us an opportunity of becoming acquainted v,ith a 
 nation whose manners and customs resemble those of the East 
 more than of the West. On the 15th of August a great festival 
 was celebrated at Madonna della Neve, and Catholics, Greeks, 
 and Turks flocked from the Bays of Ragusa, from Bosnia, and 
 Albania, to the mii*aculous image, on an island near Perasto. 
 The inhabitants of these bays once formed a number of small 
 republics, which depended on the Emperors of Byzantium. The 
 dominion of the Spaniards is recalled to mind by the Castel 
 Spagnoio, on the highest point, near Caste! Nuovo; that of the 
 Knights of Malta, by several buildings erected by them ; that of 
 the Turks, by the city Avails, and some Aral)ic inscriptions ; that 
 of the Venetians, by the fortifications above the towii of Cataro, 
 and the visit of the Russians, English, Montenegrines, and 
 French, by the remains of houses which were burned by them to 
 no purpose, and the ruined prosperity of the whole country. 
 
 On the 3d of September we arrived at Alexandria. The first 
 question we put to the two pilots who came to steer us into the 
 port, was, Avhether the plague was in Alexandria ? They assured 
 us that there had been no death for a month past, and the city is 
 generally free from July to October inclusive. There were about 
 three hundred ships in the old harbour, the greater part Turkish, 
 about fifty Austrian, ten Sardinian, and a few French, English, 
 Swedish,j Danish, and Neapolitan. In the dangerous new har- 
 bour, to which all the vessels of the Franks were formerly com- 
 pelled to repair, there were only sixteen Turkish ships. As we 
 w^ere sroins: on shore we met several seamen in boats, who saluted 
 us, and bellowed out their monotonous Arabic songs. At the 
 custom-house the Arabs fought together for our things, e\ery one 
 desiring to earn something by carrying them. The entrance into 
 the African town is highly interesting to a stranger, fnnii the no- 
 velty it presents to him. The croAvd of Arabs, one dressed in 
 rags, another in a long Oriental dress, all with beards and dark 
 brown complexions, most of them extremely miserable, the great 
 number of hollow-eyed half-naked children, rimning all day long 
 about the streets, and calling out JaallaJi, the pale, yellow, 
 bloated w^omen, with their eyes sunk in their heads, their faces 
 covered with rags, in a detestable dress, and creeping about like 
 ghosts, are but melancholy objects. We saw burying grounds 
 with an infinite number of tablets with inscriptions, women la- 
 menting over the graves of their friends, and an army of dogs, 
 which furiously attacked us, and pursued us till we were out of 
 their district. We went to the quarter of the Franks, where we 
 
4 Scholzd Travels 
 
 were received in tlie most friendly manner. We made ourselves 
 acquainted with the city and its environs, with the manners and 
 customs of the East, and prepared for our intended expedition in- 
 to the Cyrenaica. 
 
 A company of well prepared travellers could not certainly have 
 selected a mure interesting excursion for their first attempt, than 
 into the territory of Cyrene. This country was almost for<rotten. 
 The captains of vessels, who sometimes went to Derna and Ben- 
 gasi, to fetch the produce, heard of an ancient desolate city ou 
 the heights, commanding the \a hole country, but ])aid no atten- 
 tion to it, or to the engraved stones foimd there, which the Be- 
 douins offered them for triff es. Physicians, w ho accompanied the 
 Dey of Tri])()li in his campaigns against the Bedouins of that 
 district, and the inhabitants of Fezzan, spoke of it, but only in 
 general terms ; and Delia Cella was the first who noticed the im- 
 portance of researches in this country^ to the arts, history, and 
 philology. The desolate country between Derna and Bengasi, 
 offered to the captains of vessels, that came in the Summer from 
 IVIalta, Alexandria, and Candia, abundance of horned cattle, 
 slieep, and fruits ; and their wool is thought e(jual to the best in 
 Barbary. AVhat treasures may the gardens of the Hesperides, 
 the beautiful meadows of Ericab, the populous Pentapolis, and 
 above all, Cyrene, have contained ? Many celebrated nations of 
 the interior resorted hither, and Phoenicians, Egyptians, Greeks, 
 and Carthaginians, brought immense riches to this spot, to pur- 
 chase its pro(kictions, its engraved stones, and, above all, the juice 
 prepared from the sylphium ; and Cyrene, as a Phoenician, Athe- 
 nian, Egyptian, and Roman colony, rivalled the parent cities in 
 tlie s})lendor of its works of art, and in luxury. How many 
 monuments and inscriptions of those various periods may there 
 be in Cyrene; what treasures of this description in the ruins of 
 Berenice, Teuchira, Ptolemais, Barca, and ApoUonia ? The 
 Avay we had resolved to take through the district of IVIareotis, by 
 Apis and Panetonium, and the return by the Oases of Angela, 
 and Siwa, is liighly interesting to the antiquarian, and those 
 places are not so well known as they deserve to be. As it 
 seemed Iiazardous to bemn our travels in the East with so ex- 
 pensive an exj)edition, without a previous sufficient knowledge 
 of the lanfjuajxe and manners of the country, and without care- 
 fully weighing all the circumstances, well memiing friends ad- 
 vised us to initiate ourselves at a smaller experice. This country 
 is })esi(les known to be one of the most dangerous, on account of 
 the attacks of the Bedouins, so that scarcely a month pjisses in 
 M hich caravans are not plundiuvd and nun-dered. At Siwa we saw 
 the lenjains of an luifortunate caravan of eighteen |XTftons, who, 
 with forty camels, were going from Siwa to Bengasi, but were 
 
_ in Egypt and Lybia, in 1821. b 
 
 attacked four days journey beyond Siwa, and after the danger 
 was past had fled back to Siwa. The inconceivable sufferings 
 and hardships, especially on their return, had deprived them of 
 their understanding, and they were hardly able to speak. Suc- 
 cess cannot be obtained without profound knowledge of the in- 
 habitants, rare sagacity, and indefatigable efforts. Lastly, care in 
 the choice of die season of the year is requisite. The great loss 
 of time caused by the heavy and continual rains in the winter 
 months is not to be compared with the inconveniences of the heat 
 in the other part of the year ; and the antiquarian, and still more 
 the naturalist, will best commence his researches, when we, ac- 
 cording to our calculation, should long since have ended thein : 
 but the h©pe of being useful to science, and of showing our 
 gratitude to our patrons, made us overlook every difficulty. The 
 company consisted of General Baron Minutoli, M. Liemann, 
 Professor of Architecture, Messrs. Ehrenberg and Hemprich, 
 Doctors of Physic and Naturalists, and Doctor and Professor 
 Aug. Scholz. There were besides three assistants of the Gene- 
 ral, an assistant of the Naturalists', two Dragomans, and some 
 Arab servants. 
 
 We set out on the 5th of October, proceeding westwards, at 
 the distance of a quarter of a league to three leagues from the sea 
 coast, and arrived on the 25th at the well of Chaur. Part of our 
 caravan, viz. the General and his attendants, the first Dragoman, 
 and the Sheik, or chief of our Bedouins, left us here, and re- 
 turned to Cairo, while the other part advanced to the Tripolitan 
 territory, where it waited from the 28th of October to the 14th of 
 November for permission to continue the journey, and an escort, 
 from the Bey of Bengasi. The caravan seemed to be judiciously 
 arranged under the protection of Mehemet Ah Pacha, and the 
 direction of experienced men, and to encourage the fondest 
 hopes. Hadsch Hendawi Abu Daheb, a considerable Sheik of the 
 horde Dschimeat, and twenty-five armed Bedouins, with thirty- 
 six camels, were hired to defend the company, and convey their 
 provisions, clothes, and books, and were answerable for their 
 safety. The good understanding between Mehemet Ali and the 
 Pacha of Tripoli, and his relationship with the Bey of Bengasi, 
 were well calculated to inspire them with confidence in his press- 
 ing recommendations, and to quiet their apprehensions of the ex- 
 cesses of the Bedouins, who dread his powerful arm : under 
 these circumstances we overlooked the disputes with the Bedouins 
 before we left Alexandria, not considering that they might be the 
 prelude of more serious ones in the desert. Promises were ex- 
 torted from them, which the Bedouin readily makes in hopes of 
 gain, but interprets at his pleasure, and breaks without scruple. 
 They promised to take fodder for the camels with them, to travel 
 
6 Scholz'8 Travels 
 
 the more quickly, but let tliem graze when ()p|X)rtunIty ofl'erec!, 
 in spite of all our remonstrances. We paid for tlu'ce camels to 
 carry water, but they generally went without, because they 
 would bring us to wells, the situation of whicli they did not know, 
 which contained salt water, or perha[)s did not exist at all. Tlie 
 Sheik not only did as he pleased in this respect, but left the 
 caravan at will, to visit his friends in the neigh])ourhood. The 
 licentiousness of the Bedouins then knew no bounds ; and on one 
 occasion they caused us no small ejubarrassment. Some of them 
 stole a goat, and the owners pursued them. Kvery ont^ pre])are(! 
 to defend himself, in expectation of an attack, which we feareil 
 would be seconded by some hm-semen at a distance ; our appre- 
 hensions were however groundless, but the Bedouins availe<{ 
 themselves of this opportunity to provoke and vex us. Our 
 camels, which otherwise ran dispersed, were driven together; 
 the Bedouins marched in l)attle array, and fired with ball in 
 every direction. They engaged to take us the right way ; but 
 confessed they wanted a guide, whom the company should pay. 
 But nothing was more disagreeable than tlie slow progress of our 
 caravan in a desolate country. Our Dragomans too were not 
 (jualified for their task, and often caused us much trouble. 
 Nothing was more unpleasant than to have to converse with tlie 
 Bedouins througli them, convinced that we should but half attain 
 our object, or perhaps not at all ; and the complaints made in 
 the East of the insolence, stupidity, and malicious imj)ositions of 
 this class of men, are as just as they are general. The most 
 abominable acts of injustice are practised by them, especially at 
 Constantinople, where they are ranked with hre and the plague, as 
 one of the three greatest punishments which afilict the capital of 
 the Turkish empire. I endeavoured to iill up the time by ex- 
 cursions on foot in all directions, especially towards the sea coast, 
 though there was some danger of straying from the caravan, and 
 losing my way in the desert. The Aveather was favoiu'able ; the sky 
 generally serene and the horizon clear: when this was not the case, 
 the groups of clouds, especially at sun-rise or sun-set, presented 
 a most beautiful and subli))ie sioht. The niiiht dews were more 
 or less considerable, according to the violence of the wind, but 
 always injurious to the naketl eye. We had rain on four days 
 only, and on the 2d of November, in the al'leriioon, a thunder 
 storm, that came up from the east, but without rain The air at 
 this season is ]nu'e anil healthy, though damp. The temperature 
 varied from 10 dcfr. to 1::!5 (leg. of luat at noon: tlie niglus were 
 generally cool, the north and noilh-wisl winds ])redonnnated, 
 which increased the coolness ol' tlu- nights. 
 
 On the i2(ith, 27th, 2Sth, and i^Oth of October, and the 1st, My 
 4th5 and 5th of November, the violent ckamhc (west wind) gave 
 
in Egypt and Lybia, i/i 1821. 7 
 
 us all head-aches and oppression on the chest, and its gusts threat- 
 ened destruction to the eyes. It announced its coming by a very 
 fierv red the evening before, was stormy, whirled up the sana, 
 and piled immense masses of clouds towards tlie north. In 
 November meteors in the north-east were frequent, which, like 
 the aurora borealis, illumed the gloomy nights for hours together. 
 The tides are almost imperceptible along the whole coast ; but 
 when the wind is high, the waves wet the sand to the distance of 
 several hundred paces, so that it is thus bleached beautifully 
 white, and forms a singular contrast with that at a distance. As 
 it rains only in tliree months, and for the rest of the year the sun 
 scorches the plain, which has no protection from its beams, nature 
 m<iy be said to live only in these three months. In them the plants 
 shoot, blossom, and fade ; the animals copulate and increase ; and 
 after they are passed, most of them hasten to the sleep of death. 
 
 It was easy to perceive that the division of the company would 
 ruin the whole enterprise. The letters of recommendation, &c. 
 were calculated for one chief person, who, as the friend of the 
 Pacha, gave consistency and unity to the caravan, and could pro- 
 mote its objects by large presents. If he withdrew, success was 
 very doubtful, even with the greatest sacrifices of money and 
 labour, and we might fail even under the most favourable circum- 
 stances. The company, however, resolved not to neglect the 
 faint hope that remained, and to wait twenty days, for the answer 
 to the letters which had been sent by sea and land, to ask per- 
 mission, and an escort for the journey. It may seem strange, that 
 after such great sacrifices we had not the courage to follow the 
 advice of the Arabs, to advance without permission, and atone by 
 presents for the violation of Oriental etiquette ; or that we en- 
 trusted the most important concerns to the Bedouins, who de- 
 ceived us, and every day, after holding council, tormented 
 us with vexatious proposals, sometimes desiring to return for 
 want of provisions, sometimes to advance over the frontiers, 
 hourly announcing new dangers, and trying to make our abode in 
 a very critical situation still more painful. At length, after long 
 waiting to no purpose, we resolved, on the 1st of November, to 
 hasten southward to Siwa, where we arrived on the ISth. This 
 journey tlirough the desert was fatiguing in the extreme ; for 
 having but little water we rode for three days, twenty hours to- 
 gether, at a rapid pace, the camels making from eighty-five to 
 ninety steps in a minute, whereas in general they take only 
 seventy. At Siwa we were ill received by the barbarous inha- 
 bitants, treated like prisoners, and travelled on the 23d as far as 
 Ainelaggab, two leagues eastward from Siwa Kebir, near the great 
 lake which incloses the fertile Oasis of Ofen, without having seen 
 the principal curiosities of the Oasis. On the 25th and 2()th we 
 
8 Seholz's Travels 
 
 were at Kara, sixteen leagues from Slwa, the 29th and 30th at 
 Vadi IleisflR', twelve leagues from Kara, the 4th of December at 
 Vadi Libbeck, seventeen leagues from Heische, the 6th and 7th 
 at Hamam, seventeen leagues from Libbeck, and the 9tli at Alex- 
 andria, sixteen leagues from Hamam. We suffered severelv on 
 this journev. The want of water and provisions obliged us to 
 make very long stages, while the heavy rains at the Ijeginning of 
 December, cold north winds almost daily at the end of November 
 anti beginning of Decem])er, dam]) chilly nights, swarms of ver- 
 min in our linen, and a hundred other hardships, filled up the 
 measure of our sufferings. 
 
 The death of one person of our company two days before (mr 
 arrival in Alexandria, the dangerous illness of another, who like- 
 wise died soon afterwards, and the bad health of the remainder, 
 caused the first plan to be abandoned, and it was agreed to follow 
 the example already set by the chief person in the comjiany, so 
 that every one sliould act independently in the pursuit of his own 
 j)eculiar object. M. Lieman, Professor of Architecture in tlic 
 Academy of Berlin, died on the 11th of December, at ten o'clock, 
 of a debility, caused by violent diarrha?a and fever. He was bu- 
 ried at half-past three o'clock the same day, in the Greek monas- 
 
 As I should have been losing time by staying at Alexandria, 
 where I had previously passed a month, I embarked on the Nile 
 for Cairo. My situation made it impossible for me to undertake 
 inmiediately, at this season, the journey to Upper Egypt ; and I 
 also thought it too hazardous to venture on my favourite project 
 of a visit to Nubia and Abyssinia, before the expences were suf- 
 ficiently provided for, though the Coptic Patriarch and other con- 
 siderable pers(ms at Cairo took great interest in it. A very 
 favourable opportunity, however, offered to visit Syria and Pales- 
 tine, countries which I above all desired to become accpiainted 
 with, the Bishop of Babylon having invited me to accompany 
 him thither. This worthy prelate, a Frenchman of La Ven(k'e, 
 njimed l*ierre Couperi, was going to Bagdad, which the Propa- 
 ganda had assigned him for his residence, as Bisho]) of the Catho- 
 hcs of the Latin Cliurch in the whole of the ancient Chaldea and 
 Assyria. This see was founded by a French ladv one lumdrvd 
 and fifty years ago, with the annexed condition that it should 
 always be filled by a Frenchman. The Christians of the Latin 
 rite are not above three thousand in this great diocese. The very 
 numerous Catholics of tlie Chaldean rite have their patriarchs and 
 bishops; those of the Syrian and Armenian church, and the Ma- 
 ronilcs, have also their ])ishops. Having viewed the curiosities of 
 Cairo and its environs, especially the j)yramids, we connnenced 
 our journey on the 5th of January. The weather was in general 
 
I 
 
 in Egypt and Lybia^ in 1821. 
 
 favourablev At Bilbeisch we were joined by a company of 
 English ; at Saalhigeh by thirty-one Coptic, Syrian, and other 
 merchants, with twelve negro slaves, and an Indian dervise, with 
 an attendant. He was once a rich man, who had sold his property 
 to make a pilgrimage to Mecca and Jerusalem, and had been tra- 
 velling about for four years; but having been robbed at Mecca, he 
 now subsists upon alms. Many travellers from Bilbeisch and 
 Gaza also joined us, so that our caravan consisted of about eighty 
 persons, with one hundred and forty camels, and thirty asses. 
 Beyond Arisch, where there was more security, and no want of 
 water, they divided into several parties, some travelled all night, 
 and all of them quicker than we did. The company was very 
 agreeable and instructive. I learned to appreciate the good 
 nature of the Orientals, and when the day's journey was con- 
 cluded, which usually began at five in the morning, and ended at 
 four in the afternoon, I lived among them, sitting on the ground, 
 happier than in the tedious conversaziones of Italy. The Be- 
 douins, whom we met on our first unfortunate expedition to the 
 Cyrenaica, daily vexed us with forms which characterize them as 
 Mahometans, but are odious to Christians. These merchants, 
 though chiefly Mahometans, never ventured to touch on this 
 point, and neglected no opportunity to make the journey agree- 
 able, and to do us every kindness in their power ; so that tra- 
 velling in the East, of which my first expedition had given me so 
 bad a specimen, became daily more interesting and useful to me. 
 In choosing the resting place for the night, valleys are preferred, 
 as being sheltered from the winds. We alone had tents. The 
 Arabs, each party by itself, took their stations very irregularly, at 
 intervals of six or eight paces, spreading their carpets on the 
 ground ; and placing the baggage in a semicircle, which served as 
 aback for the divan, they slept in the open air, covered with their 
 upper garments. Each pai'ty made a fire to warm themselves, 
 and dress their repast. Most were contented with cold provisions, 
 dates, and barley bread; some drank coffee. The camels and 
 asses were immediately fed, generally with beans. In the evening 
 they conversed, and went to sleep about ten o'clock. In caravans, 
 with which I afterwards travelled, religious hymns were sung at 
 half-past three in the morning, but by such rude voices and in 
 such monotonous notes, that I was glad to go away sooner. This 
 never happened here. The negro slaves danced sometimes at our 
 request, but they were not skilful : they were well treated, and 
 always cheerful. I travelled from Gaza to Jerusalem, thence 
 made excursions, first along the coast into Kesserwan, then into the 
 interior of Palestine, and returned at Easter to Jerusalem, in 
 hopes of finding news from home. After returning from the 
 Jordan, the pilgrims thought of their departure, contented and 
 Voyages and Travels, No. XLV. Vol. VIII. c 
 
iO Scholz's Travels 
 
 happy in the heavenly pleasure whicli they had enjoyed. I also 
 prepared to depart, but whither? I had had my books and let- 
 ters sent from Masr to Aleppo. j\Iy first wish was to reach 
 Damascus, near to which I had been before ; but the accounts of 
 disturbances in European Turkey, of which we had already 
 some report in April, became daily more positive and alarming, 
 and the fears excited by them more general, till official information 
 and orders were received in May. All the Christians were dis- 
 armed, and they dreaded the recurrence of the scenes of liorror 
 which had accompanied the French invasion. At that time they 
 lost their pro])ertv, and many hundreds their lives, and they now 
 trembled for the fate of all the Christians in Palestine. I hesi- 
 tated about visiting Damascus, and hastened to Jaffa. Still greater 
 consternation ])revailed there. The Franks liad suffered here also 
 by the arrogance of the Turks : English travellers were disarmed 
 at Rama, the Russian consul expelled from his house and ])lun- 
 dered. This w as no inviting prospect for me. I was aff'ectetl the 
 most by news from Acre, stating that all the poor had been ex- 
 pelled from the town, the Russian and Austrian flags on the con- 
 suls' houses, cut down, and Katafalko, the consul, murdered in 
 prison. 
 
 I here wrote on the 8th of May a letter to my uncle, from 
 which the following is an extract : " You liave learned by pre- 
 ceding letters the cause and the manner of my coming to Pales- 
 tine. In February I accompanied the Bishop of Babylon from 
 Jerusalem to Acre. On my way thither I examined the beautiful 
 plain of Sarona, Cesarea, Tantora, and Atlid, and made excursions 
 from Acre to Mount Carmel and all Galilee. On my return 
 through Galilee, to l)e at Jerusalem at Easter, I became ac- 
 quainted with Samaria, but with imminent danger of my life. 
 
 With some Ene:lish travellers I rode alonjjf the Jordan at the 
 
 "... ~ 
 
 time when })ilgrims visit it, to Richa on the Dead Sea, and Mount 
 Karanlan. I had jireviously visited Saba, Bethania, anil the 
 other remnrkable j)laces in Judea; I now wished to go through 
 Samaria and the Decajiolis, to Damascus and Mount Lebanon. 
 Ihit this journey must be made either in a large companv, or in 
 the disguise of a poor Bedouin. The former is not to be had, 
 and the latter seemed dangerous at this period ; for what is more 
 likely to excite suspicion than taking down detailed notes of any 
 place and its curiosities. ExaggiM'ated ?v})orts of the troubles in 
 Greece and Turkev came to Jerusalem, and nothing less was 
 talked of than war between Austria and Russia and the SuUan. 
 I therefore hastened to .lall';i, to convey my mamiscri])ls, ancient 
 coins, anti{juities, and books, to ('vprus, and thence seiul them to 
 Trieste. Jaffa is now full of pilgrims, the roofs ixvc crowded with 
 them. The songs of the Arnaulf:, the iliscord of which is lost in 
 
in Egypt and Lybia, in IS2 1 , 11 
 
 the roaring of the sea, dispels my melancholy ; but the arrogance 
 of the Turks is intolerable. Formerly I was fond of enter- 
 ing into conversation with them ; now I cannot bear to look at 
 them. I am grieved when I see them brandish their pistols 
 round the heads of the poor Christians, and terrify them till they 
 are ready to sink into the earth. But the day of deliverance for 
 me and for many thousands is at hand. Twenty large vessels 
 and thirty-five smaller ones are ready to receive the pilgrims. — I 
 have not yet any good news from home : you see therefore that 
 a prolongation of the two years leave of absence is not to be 
 thought of. I must have returned before, had I not been fortu- 
 nate in meeting with such good company to travel with, &c." 
 
 I wrote the following letter to my mother : 
 
 " Thus then I have ended my pilgrimage in the Holy Land. 
 I have followed the steps of the holy family from the birth of 
 our Lord in Bethlehem, to his circumcision, on their flight to 
 Egypt^ and in their domestic life in Galilee. I have traced our 
 Saviour''s pubhc life in Samaria and Judea; frequently visited in 
 particular the scene of the last events of his life ; added my tears 
 to those of his disciples and friends, as millions of pilgrims have 
 done, who before me had sought consolation and comfort on the 
 spot where the Saviour suffered death on the cross for the 
 human race. My happiness was above all earthly feeling, when 
 I was absolved from past transgressions, where the Saviour of 
 the world himself promised forgiveness of sins, and partook of 
 the body of the Lord, where he himself instituted the holy sacra- 
 ment. How often did I place myself in the situation of his mo- 
 ther, when she saw her beloved son, here die the most cruel 
 death, there glorified in transcendant majesty as the Saviour of 
 mankind. The fancy here draws a living picture which becomes 
 for ever her property, because we are most deeply sensible what 
 life is, when we behold in spirit so great an example before us, 
 when we boldly look into futurity to which the Man-God himself 
 opened us the way, and in the joyful triumph of confidence and 
 hope, exclaim with the apostle, ' O Death, where is thy sting ! O 
 Grave, where is thy victory !** " 
 
 The reasons above stated decided my departure from Syria in 
 the middle of May ; for to continue my travels was impossible. 
 Travelling in the East is troublesome even in time of peace ; in 
 company this is not so much felt, but if you are alone, you are 
 at the mercy of the mule driver. If he is a Mahometan you 
 must not reply to his abuse, and can never threaten him without 
 danger. If he is a Christian you are the more exposed to the 
 insults of the Mahometans. The traveller often suffers by their 
 conventions with each other, or their customs. Thus, on the way 
 ^from Jerusalem to Acre, we had scarcely gone a league, when a 
 
lit Scholz's Travels 
 
 troop of Arabs siuUlenly came forward, threw the burdens from 
 the mules, and stoned and beat the owners. We asked the 
 cause, but no one answered. We were goinc: to turn back, when 
 the Abrii^o-s and the Vice-Procurator of the Latin council, the 
 first ^ointr to Jerusalem, the second to Jaffa, came up, and de- 
 cided in favour of our Arabs, the assaihmts, as we now leanied, 
 havinfT claimed the profit to be made by this journey- On some 
 occasions they broke the most solenm enfja<^ements for the hire of 
 mules, exactmg more than was stipulated, demandinfr payment 
 for services never performed, or for articles never su})plied ; and 
 one of them, Avhose unjust demands had l)een resisted, run after 
 me in the streets of Acre, and related to all the Mahometans, 
 with tears in his eyes, how unjustly an infidel had treated him. 
 
 At Nazareth I agreed with a Greek to conduct me through 
 Samaria to Jerusalem for thirty-five piastres. At Dschenin he 
 heard there was danger, and refused to proceed on the journey. 
 All dissuaded me, but I persisted, and was forced to engage a 
 Sheik to go with me, for a large sum, who could give and return 
 the Mahometan salutation, " Salam Alaikum."' But these and simi- 
 lar unpleasant scenes are not to be compared with what" the 
 Franks have lately experienced. A Piedmontese Count paid 
 five liundrcd piastres for the journey from Nazareth to Dscheras, (a 
 journey of two days and a half), and was plundered notwithstand- 
 ing. A company of English wished to go from Damascus to Tad- 
 mor. They paid the Sheik half of his reward (five hundred 
 piastres) before hand, and made him large presents; when they 
 had travelled some days, a messenger came to meet them, with 
 the news, that it was dangerous to proceed, the Bedouins being 
 in insurrection. The Sheik declared he could not answer for 
 their lives, but would do his utmost to serve them. They were 
 obliged to give up their expedition, and to lose their seven ' 
 .or eiglit luuidred piastres. Some other Englishmen had hire<l 
 camels for two months, and paid beforehand, for a journey to 
 Upper Egypt. On the way the driver became ill, the camels • 
 would not go on, and they were happy to return by another 
 opportunity. At Naplous, the face of an Englishman was cleft 
 in two, in the court-yard of the Motsallem, because in a dispute 
 with his conductor he had abused a soldier. An Enjjlishman re- 
 turning from Richa, was plundered and left naked, and a cripple. 
 His conductor had run away. — These mule drivers generally ask 
 ten times as much of the Franks as of natives. The tenns are 
 fixed by the Dragomans, who are liberal at othtT ix-ople^s ex- 
 ence, even when they get nothing by it. l{ich Englishmen 
 avc done nnich injury to other travellers: they eome with some 
 thousands of pounds sterling, and he who does not pay like them, 
 is ])ilied as a poor devil not worth attending to. 'I'he fathers in 
 
 I 
 
in Egypt and Lybia, in 1821. IS 
 
 the Holy Land are accused, but wrongfully, of favouring these 
 extortions: but the servants in the convents are uncommonly 
 insolent. Thus I have seen them wait whole days at the door of 
 a traveller, for a large douceur, (Bakschisch,) because they have 
 put him in mind of a festival in the church. This selfish charac- 
 ter, this intolerable importunity, is become contagious. The 
 Armenian and Greek monks have a genteel mode of indemnify- 
 ing themselves for services performed. They do not fail to give 
 the stranger somebody as a guide, who soon gains his confidence, 
 and knows the tax to be paid, for benefits received, to the church ; 
 for, according to the customary polite way of speaking, the 
 church, and not the clergy receives it. If he is rich, this tax 
 often amounts with the Armenians to one thousand piastres for a 
 few dinners and nights'* lodging. The Greeks ask less, but the 
 oftener. The poor pilgrims on the other hand receive kind treat- 
 ment from them. They give them little, but that little as long 
 as they need it. The Latins maintain them very well for a 
 month ; but when that is expired tliey must go away. In the 
 observance of this, otherwise good rule, they have often laid aside 
 all Christian charity, and committed cruelties which will be an 
 eternal disgrace to the intercessors of the Catholics at the tomb 
 of Christ, and may serve as an illustration of the history of the 
 degenerate monastic spirit, for this was not the intention of St. 
 Francis. They have cast poor half naked pilgrims into the 
 street, given them nothing on which to lay their heads, and 
 haughtily rejected their entreaties for a bit of bread. On such 
 acts the blessing of God will never come. — In places where there 
 is no monastery or hospital, strangers lodge in the house of a 
 consul, or in a khan. These are inconvenient and dirty, and 
 men and animals are often lodged together in one stable. Those 
 who travel with Greeks generally lodge with the Kuris, (or Greek 
 priests), whose dwellings are in general very wretched. In sum- 
 mer travellers are exposed to the burning heat of the sun, in win- 
 ter to torrents of rain. From the want of regular roads they are 
 often in danger of losing their way, or in bad weather of sinking 
 in the mud. Thus on my first journey in Galilee, my horse sunk 
 so deep into the mud, half a league from the lake of Tiberias, 
 that I fell off several times, and had to wade in it up to my 
 knees. In Samaria, in the valley before the village of Taniun, 
 several camels sunk in the mud, and the drivers had to wade up 
 to their hips to carry their heavy burdens on to the high dry 
 ground, and help the animals out. My mule also sunk, and we 
 . had great difficulty in getting it out. No bridges are ever built 
 over the rivers, and wading through them is often dangerous 
 when the waters are high. 
 
 In the cultivated parts of Syria the best mode of travelling is 
 
14 Scholz's Travels 
 
 on mules ; ihcy carry great burdens, and go much faster than 
 camels, which last are in general less fit for the hard rocks 
 of Judea. They do not tread firm, and often sink under their 
 load. 
 
 On the coast, on Mount Lebanon, and in Galilee, there is no 
 fear of robbers ; but in the other })arts of Syria travelling is 
 always dangerous. Three years ago a caravan, with more than 
 one hundred camels, going from Damascus to Bagdad, was entirely 
 plundered, and the ])eople murdered. The caravans from Damas- 
 cus to Ale})po are often attacked. The journey to Palmvra has 
 become extremely dangerous for the Franks, since the Bedouins 
 in that quarter were chastised by an army, by command of the 
 Sultan, for the murder of an English traveller of distinction. 
 The Nomades think themselves authorized to conmiit these 
 cruelties, either because there is some person with the caravan 
 upon whom they have to exercise the law of retaliation, or 
 because no agreement has been made with them for the |)ayment 
 to which they claim a right. Frequently, however, they are im- 
 pelled merely by lust of rapine and bloodshed. 
 
 Extract from another letter written from Zante to my uncle : 
 *' You have learned by my letter of the 6th of May, why I have 
 given up my plan of going to Alej^po by way of Damascus and 
 Lebanon. We left the roads of Jaffa sooner than I expected. 
 As soon as the pilgrims received from the IVIotsallem permission 
 to depart, and the price of the passage had been fixed by him, all 
 hastened to the harbour. I chose an Austrian polacca, which was 
 already hired for a part of the Russian pilgrims, eighty in number, 
 and was to go by way of Cyprus to Constantinoj)le. The 
 Russian consul, who had been so ill used, was of the party, and 
 his fear of the Turks induced the captain to cut the cable to 
 escape without loss of time. Having a very favoiu-able west wind, 
 we were within forty-eight hours in sight of Cyprus. The land- 
 ing there was desirable for the whole companv, who in their 
 great hurry had not been able to provide themselves with jm'o- 
 visions ; it was agreeable to the consul, w ho could here take 
 measures for the better execution of his ]irecipitate resolution ; 
 and it was most important to me, because the harbour being fidl 
 of European ships I might find a conveyance to any port in the 
 Turkish empire. At Larnaca too, the residence of some hundred 
 Europeans and several consuls, I might hooe for more protection 
 than m Syria; and when 1 had attained mv object in Cyprus, 
 easily pass over to the Syrian coast, anil then, if possible, under- 
 take my journey by way of AK'ppo, Mosul, Rngdad, and Arabia, 
 to Abyssinia. Rut Providence had decreed othi rwise. Just as we 
 were going to land a storm (hove us towards Uluules. Various 
 plans now occurred to me. Sometimes I thought of embarking 
 
 ) 
 
in Egypt and Lyhia, in IS2\. K 
 
 at Rhodes in a vessel for Cyprus; then I was for going to 
 Smyrna, and joining a caravan for the interior of Asia; but I 
 persisted in my resolution to hasten to Syria, to accomplish which 
 I was ready to hazard my life. A conversation with some Greek 
 pirates, who cruized in the channel of JRhodes, and lay in wait for 
 Turkish ships, did not deter me, though the accounts they gave 
 were by no means encouraging. According to them the Greeks 
 were in possession of the whole of the Morea, all the Greeks on 
 the islands and on the continent under arms, and a Russian and 
 Austrian army about to pursue the Turks to Constantinople, 
 where the European ministers were in the greatest danger. 
 Some, they said, had been ill-treated, others had fled, and all had 
 with difficulty escaped the most imminent danger ; that an in- 
 surrection of the Greeks had become a war of the Christians 
 against the Mahometans, They furnished us with provisions 
 and wine, for which the Russian consul gave his receipt, but 
 warned us against visiting the city of Rhodes, because there, as 
 every where else on the continent of the Ottoman empire, the 
 Turks and Jews had vowed death and destruction to the Chris- 
 tians. We fled from place to place, found every where anxious 
 expectation, conflicting reports, no authentic information to guide 
 our proceedings, and no opportunity of conveyance to any great 
 sea-port. 
 
 In Patmos nothing was thought of but the equipment of ships ; 
 all were eager for the war witli the Turks, no sacrifice was too 
 great. The youth were already under arms ; only old men and 
 women were left at home. The Morea and most of the islands 
 were in insurrection ; combatants flocked from various parts of 
 the Turkish empire ; Ypsilanti tried to raise Moldavia and Wal- 
 lachia; all breathed revenge. The great affair of the Greek 
 nation now gradually unfolded itself before our eyes. The plan 
 for throwing off' the Turkish yoke had been six years in bringing 
 to maturity. The secret was known only to a few, and on these 
 few the whole edifice reposed. Several hundred ships were built, 
 ammunition procured, and millions of money had been laid upon 
 the altar of their country by the rich Greek merchants and cap- 
 tains. The events in the south-west of Europe quickly matured 
 their plans. The movements among the nation drew attention, 
 and the assembling of the people excited suspicion. The divan of 
 Constantinople demanded an explanation, and received it. The 
 circumstance appeared to it of no importance ; it had long since 
 been accustomed to treat such events with indifference. But now 
 reports came from all quarters ; Lord Strangford, the English 
 ^Ambassador, communicated to it the whole plan of the con- 
 spiracy, as it had been discovered to him, from authentic sources, 
 by the Lord High Commissioner of the Ionian Islands. There 
 
16 Svholz's Travels 
 
 were traitors among the Greeks themselves. The divan, in its 
 anger, caused many Greeks of distinction to be beheaded. The 
 Patriarch of Constantinople was one of the first victims. Many 
 princes, arch])ishops, bisnops, and priests shared a similar fate. 
 Dreadful scenes now followed in Constantinople, Smyrna, and 
 other parts of the Turkish empire. Each party tried to de- 
 stroy the other. It was a war of extermination. The Turks 
 were cruel ; but the Greeks were still more so. Many thousands 
 of innocent people first lost their limbs, and then their lives. 
 Thev triiunphed over the murder of three hundred Albanians, 
 wlio had fallen into their hands before Naxos, and that of the 
 crews of many Turkish ships, and of wcmien, children, and old 
 men, at the taking of Athens, and other places. I could fill 
 whole sheets with the cruelties they have conunitted. In Hydra, 
 the centre of the Greek marine, we found every thing in the 
 jrreatest agitation. The old ffovennnent of the island had been 
 overthrown a few days before our arrival, and the members of it, 
 who had fled, were nuirdered by the ])cople. Fugitive families 
 from Smyrna, Macedonia, and the ]\Iorea flocked hither. All 
 were either in extacy or profound aflliction. As long as the 
 people were not distressed and alarmed by bad news, there were 
 festivities without end ; but what availed these to the numerous 
 families who had been forced to abandon their property. I was 
 glad to leave this scene of confusion. I found the Ionian Islands 
 also full of fugitive Moreotes, who had taken refuge in them. 
 Here, under the protection of the English government, every 
 bcxly could speak freely of the Greeks, and the least imfortunate 
 joined in the enthusiasm of their countrymen for religion, liberty, 
 and their country. But it was more and more evident to me, that 
 this enterprize did not deserve the encomiums which hitherto had 
 been bestoNved on it ; and that it was rather the work of some am- 
 l)itious arrogant individuals, who prepared destruction for their na- 
 tion. In these islands also it is difficult to find a ctmveyance, and 
 all communication is obstructed. Every ship brings fresh and more 
 terrible accounts from various parts of the Turkish empire ; and 
 as I cannot think of pursuing my journey in it, I shall soon embark 
 for Trieste, and then hasten to return to you. 
 
 Topogr(q)hij of the Coinitrf/ hchvccn Alexandria and the Frontiers 
 
 of' Tripoli. 
 
 From Alexandria westwards you go for nine leagues on the 
 small isthmus which is formed by the ^lediterranean Sea and 
 Lake Marc\)tis. It is from a ijuarter to half a league broad, and 
 uneven. Along the lake there is a chain of hills of limestone, 
 like a dam, which extends still farther to the tower of the Arabs 
 
in Egypt and Lyhia, in 1821. 17 
 
 and Abousir. On the two shores is sand, in the middle sand or 
 day, and some salt plains Near Marabut and Mikzan there arc 
 gardens, and here and there arable land. Behind Abousir there 
 art several chains of hills, consisting either of clay or sandstone, 
 which run westward, sometimes parallel, a quarter or half a league 
 from each other, sometimes confounded together ; they are either 
 bare, or, like the plains and valleys, covered with clay or sand ; 
 there are likewise several groups of hills. Elgaibe, whose high- 
 est mountain, Dschebel Meriam, is about eight hundred feet, is 
 undoubtedly the loftiest and most extensive of the whole coast. 
 The further you go from the sea the more the land rises from 
 the beach, till, at the distance of from ten to fifteen leagues 
 an innumerable quantity of sand-hills, alternate with ridges 
 of quartz, full of petrifactions and limestones, with extensive 
 plains, form here and there fertile valleys. In these, shelter 
 from the scorching beams of the sun may generally be found 
 under bushes, which cannot be had in an immense plain where 
 there is neither house, nor tree, nor shrub ; sometimes refresh- 
 ment is afforded by a well or a cistern, with spring or rain water, 
 and at times even in a straw hut, the dwelling of a numerous 
 family, with their domestic animals. „ 
 
 From Abousir to two leagues behind Senetzerk, sandstone pre- 
 dominates, and then clay and limestone. Where there is sand the 
 shore seems to gain more and more upon the sea ; for at the dis- 
 tance of fifteen to twenty paces from the water, masts and planks 
 of ships are found buried in the sand. Hence no trace is to be dis- 
 cerned of most of the harbours on this coast celebrated in ancient 
 history. Near it there are salt plains, brackish springs and wells, 
 the latter of which seem to contain much natron. I saw the most in 
 the neighbourhood of Lamaid, and two leagues from Agaba, and 
 at the latter place a salt lake a league in length and a quarter of a 
 league in breadth. This tract contains a great many cisterns, 
 which are of the highest importance in a country where rain is to 
 be expected only at the end of November, December, and Ja- 
 nuary, and the beginning of February, and where springs are rare. 
 At all times, especially under the Saracens, the making of such cis- 
 terns was considered as a meritorious work. Their size and con- 
 struction are very various, round, angular, equilateral, roughly 
 hewn in the stone, or carefully lined with a mixture of lime and 
 sand. Some derive their names from those who erected them, 
 others from their situation ; for instance, Dokan, as lying in a spot 
 encompassed by hills, and, like the wells, they have given their 
 names to the places where they are situated. Most of them are 
 ruined or neglected, and it is only near the wells that some inha- 
 bitants still dwell with their flocks; tracts of country, many 
 square leagues in extent, full of fine vegetation, are desolate for 
 
 V^OYACEs and Travels, No. XT.V. Vol VIII. d 
 
18 Scholz's Travels 
 
 want of population. On the isilimus, the wells of Marabut on tlie 
 sea-coast, two leagues from Kereir, and ]\Iizan, on the sea-coast, 
 seven leap^ues and a half from Alexandria, arc the principal. Be- 
 yond Abousir, for the distance of eighty-two leagues, there are 
 numerous wells, some filled with rain, and some Mlth brackisli 
 water. ]\Iost of them are deep, but greatly dila]">idated. Near 
 them are stone trou":hs, and in the mornin<>- we often foiuid them 
 surrounded bv flocks. 1 hey are mostly in low plains, and nuich 
 veufetallon near them. 
 
 I'hus, on a tract of coast, eighty-four leagues in length, antl 
 from ten to fifteen leagues in breadth, we fintl neither mountain 
 nor river, wood nor village ; only hollows, low liills, and slo}x> 
 occasionally intersect the wearisome plain, and when you have 
 ascended one of these, another endless plain, witli similar object?, 
 opens to your view. The caravans, the flocks of sheep, and herds 
 of camels, that now and then pass by, alone recall io mind the ex- 
 istence of men, or the barkino- of a doo- annoimces the nei<jhbour- 
 hood of an encampment : the same may be said of the almost 
 eijuaily extensive tract from Agal)a to Derna. 
 
 '1 he nature of the soil is not unfavourable to agricultiu'e. To 
 tlie distance of one-eighth, or a cpiarter of a league from the sea, 
 it is sandy or rocky ; thence to the distance of ten or fifteen 
 leagues inland it is clayey, and rarely sand or stone. Vet it is 
 only in a small part of it that barley is sown in December. 'Ihey 
 slightly turn up the ground with a small rake fiistened to a camel, 
 thnnv in the seed, and cover it. In three months thev pluck off 
 the ears, and thrash out the grain upon the field. 'Ihey do not 
 imderstand either anricultiu'e or 2:^rdenin(r. The vegetation 
 aflbrds excellent and abundant pasture to the herds of the frugal 
 inhabitants. The shrubs grow in the long and narrow hollows 
 which are here antl there met with in all directions, and have 
 been formed ])y torrents of water. The most beaiait'ul green 
 is often found in them, while around them every thing is scorched 
 and witbered, and Nature seems to be dead. Trees are very 
 rare in this district. Though the country a])pears poor in insects 
 in Octolier, — (we saw none in great numbers except ants, flies, 
 dragon flies, a few species of beetles, and moths, and ])articularlv 
 the scnvdbd'us saccr)^ it is ])robably very rich in winter. The 
 snails of the desert cling in some places to the earth and the 
 plants, as sea-shells to the rocks and th.e coast. The great ipian- 
 tlty of coral dust, shells, snails, and fungi, which are seen on the 
 ])each, of different sizes, forms, .-md colours, shew that the sea is 
 full of iiihal)itants. \ arlous kliuls oi" lizards, adders, and ser- , 
 pents, of an ash grey colour, creep u])on the earth ; while birds ' 
 of ])rey, such as eagles, vultures, and owls, marsh fowl, and sing- 
 ing birds, especially many ubaras, (ill the air. The birds of prey 
 
in Eg'i/pt and LyhiUy in 18^1. \Q 
 
 live in tlie clefts of tlie rocks. The Becloiiiiis are very skilful in 
 training a kind of falcon for the chace, not only of birds, but 
 also of hares and gazelles, which they generally kill without 
 lacerating them. For a well-trained bird of this kind they pay 
 lifty Spanish piasters. 
 
 liats, hares, gazelles, foxes, and wolves are the most common 
 ({uadrupeds. The domestic aniinals of tlie inhabitants are camels, 
 s'leep, goats, asses, horses, cows, and dogs : the camel is indis- 
 putably the most useful. They em])loy these animals in agri- 
 culture, and in removing their tents and effects ; they let them to 
 caravans, and use their milk, flesh, and skin, without any exj)ence 
 for their maintenance, and moderate care protects them from dis- 
 eases, which are seldom dangerous. They sell the wool of the 
 sheep and the skins of the goats to great advantage, and their 
 ilesli is their favourite meat ; but few horses are kept, because 
 their food is so expensive. Only sheiks and owners of several 
 tents and herds possess them, and employ them in their excursions 
 and in war. I saw no cows beyond Vadi Senetzerk, but it is said 
 that there are some in the camps of Medsched and Dscherar. 
 Of their milk they make a thinnish butter, to which they give an 
 agreeable flavour by mixing it wdth pounded dates and honey, 
 and preserve it in leather bottles. Asses are every where but 
 fevv^ in number, and not very serviceable. Dogs are more nu- 
 merous and important for guarding the tents and herds : the for- 
 mer against the pilfering Arabs from the caravans that pass by, 
 and the latter against the attacks of the wolves which hide by day 
 in the clefts of the rocks. 
 
 Luxuries are not to be tliought of among these children of 
 Nature. Every thing is adapted to their situation, and their 
 most pressing wants, simple and uniform, like the country they 
 inhabit. Around their low black tents, which stand in groups, 
 we see nothing but naked children and dogs, who furiously attack 
 the passing stranger, while the women under the tents superintend 
 the domestic concerns. The same plants occiu* every where, and 
 most of them when slightly agitated fill the air with perfume. 
 Many, formerly common, are perhaps become extinct for want of 
 care, as well as many kinds of animals, though they are less ex- 
 posed to the pursuit of their most dangerous enemy. It seems 
 as if animals were inspired with greater fury against each other 
 the less they are disturbed by their common foe ; and from the 
 little ant, which destroys beetles ten times its own size, to the auI- 
 ture, eagle, and wolf, all animals of prey follow, without bounds, 
 the instinct which leads them to spread death and destruction 
 around. 
 
20 
 
 Sr/iolz\s Travel.? 
 
 Traces ami Jitnnai/i.s of tJie Ancient Inhabitants of this Coiintnj. 
 
 This whole district was once one of the most populous and culti- 
 vated in Africa. Alexandria extended nearly as far as Marabut, 
 which is testified by the scattered fra«i;;nients of marble and f^ranile 
 pillars, walls, and rubbish. The remains of tlie ])aths of Cleopatra 
 give indeed a faint idea of its ancient splendour; but a ])etter is su}V 
 plied by the catacombs, which extend in jill directions over a space 
 of nearly half a German sc^uare mile, and in whose vicinity tlierc 
 are other tombs hewn in the limestone rock. Near Marabut, on 
 the lake, there are traces of an opulent city, which extended to 
 the plain now overflowed by tlie lake. On the dam, foundations 
 of towns, formed of larpje hewn stones, and many cisterns, are to 
 be seen at small intervals. Tlie remains, a quarter of a leasiue 
 from Kareir, are distinguished by their extent ; and the foun- 
 dations on a mountain, four hundred ])aces from the tower of the 
 Arabs, sliow that a castle once stood there. On the sea-shore nu- 
 merous traces of large habitations are met with, among which 
 those near Mizan are the most considerable ; and how many may 
 be buried in the Lake Mareotis. 
 
 liuin^ if Ahousir 
 
 But the most remarkable are tiie ruins of the city of Abousir, 
 in the fertile plain and near the well of the same name, twelve 
 leagues from Alexandria on the sea. Three hundred paces from 
 it, situated on an eminence, is the half-ruined monument, called 
 the Tower of the Arabs. The harbour appears to have been only 
 one hundred and forty ])aces broad, and lies in such a direction, that I 
 ships were exposed both to the north and west winds. The same 
 may be said of the other ancient harbours on the coast, ])etwcH:'n 
 Para'tonium and Jaffa, and confirms the observation of Diodorusj 
 Siculus, that there was no safe harbour on it except Alexandria. 
 The maritime trade on it could, therefore, be then only carried on 
 in summer. Tliese, as well as the rest, such as I.eucaspis, Phoe-i 
 nices, Lygis, and others, are now filled up bv sand, antl except a 
 few traces entirely vanished. The greater part of tlie city lay 
 on the southern side of the dam, and was half a league in 
 circumference. Foundations and hi'.'i])s of rubbish show us 
 the situation of its houses. 'J'his rubbish contains j)ieces ofj 
 earthen vessels, marble, mosaic, and bricks, llie latter parti- 
 cularly of a conical form, of a verv beautiful red, and great hard- 
 ness. Upon the tlam no ruins remain, except of the principal 
 building, which I think was a temple. The front western part 
 is nearly entire; of the other three sides only the to]) part 
 
in Egypt a?id Lybia, in 1821. 21 
 
 is destrbyed. On the west side there are small chambers in three 
 stories, one above the other, and on the same side, in the interior, is 
 a flight of steps, leading into subterraneous apartments, now filled 
 with rubbish. There is also a deep well, and every where sub- 
 structions. The eastern and western walls are one hundred and 
 thirty-five paces, the northern and southern one hundred and ten 
 paces long. The bricks are fifteen inches long, and nijie inches 
 high. In the entrance gallery, sixty paces long and thirty broad, 
 there are also fragments of columns. To the south-west there 
 was a large enclosed space, the pillars of which are still standing, 
 and which I take to have been a garden. It lay low, in a feeble 
 clayey soil, and water was collected in the cisterns close by, against 
 the dry season. Ever}'^ where, especially on the south side of the 
 mountain, many large and small, for the most part oblong, cisterns 
 and burying places are hewn in the rock ; the latter are either 
 deep, with many divisions, or single, but all empty, or at the most 
 with a few mouldered bones, that indicate their original desti- 
 nation. The principal one, under the Tower of the Arabs, appears 
 to be of great extent, and to be connected Avith it. This tower 
 is doubtless a monument erected in the time of the Ptolemies ; oc- 
 tangular below, above round and smaller, constructed of large 
 hewn stones, and the whole belonged to the temple, which was 
 probably dedicated to Osiris. The ruins in this country, from 
 Abousir to Agaba, may be ascribed to three different ages ; some 
 are of the times of the Ptolemies or Romans, others of that of the 
 Saracens, and others of the later period of the Arabs. As cri- 
 teria we may take the structure of the remaining walls, the letters 
 on them, the solidity of the foundations, materials, coins found on 
 the spot, and other circumstances, which are indeed less certain 
 than the appearance of the buildings themselves, but yet, in 
 general, characteristic. It is certain that the later Arabs left the 
 materials in the roughest state, did not measure or cut them by 
 the rule, and in no case prepared marble or bricks for them. The 
 Saracens too seem not to have done the latter ; but they were 
 more accurate in fiLting the stones, and did not, like the Arabs, 
 content themselves with small stones, but built with large ones, 
 and in a solid manner. The remains of places built in the times 
 the Ptolemies and the Romans have a very different appearance. 
 There we find beautiful red bricks, pieces of white marble, and 
 regular foundations of fine free-stone. Lastly, the proof deduced 
 from coins has some weight. 1 found a very interesting coin of 
 Alexander the Great about half way between Kasr Dschedebye 
 and Siwa, which ^^'as also the high road from Para^tonium to that 
 place. The coins found in the rubbish of old towns are worthy of 
 attention. The more we meet Nsith, the more do tliey confirm the 
 criteria above laid down. We mav add the testimony of ihe in- 
 
22 :Sc/iol.z's Tracels 
 
 lia])itanls, who, llioui;]! tlicv care little about antiquilv, often olr- 
 servetl, when they saw a heap of ruins, '"' '1 his is of the times of 
 the Greeks, tluit of the Christians, and this aijjain of the Ara])s.""' 
 T!ie first ruin we have to mention here is a mosciue, called hv 
 the inhabitants Lanuud. It is on the sea, six leagues from 
 Abousir, on the north foot of the chain of hills on whicli the vil- 
 laire (now in ruins) was situated. IJoth were built by tlie Arabs. 
 There is no trace of any more recent etlifice. An inscription on 
 the entrance contains some verses from the second Sura of the 
 Koran; the shape of tlie letters and tlie nature of the buildinij^ 
 do not allow us to date it furtlier back than the fifteenth century. 
 xlbdermain^ four leagues to the west, and two Icairues from the 
 sea, is the ruin of a dwelling. 'J'here are many fcinulations of 
 other buildings round it. The walls are full of Hebrew and 
 (ireek inscriptions of later times. The solidity and lieauty of the 
 structiu'c induce us to refer it to the time of the l^tolemies. i he 
 ruins of Kasr Schamaa Garbye, a monument of the age of the 
 lUolemies, are two leagues to the west, and three from the sea. 
 Ka.sbau Sanlsch ScJiarhjc, twelve leagues more to the west, and 
 two from the sea, is a liandsome monument of the times of the 
 I'tolemies. Tlie handsome and very solid structure, and the let- 
 ters n T r irregularly carved, and dating h\nw the remotest times, 
 are decisive. An inscription in these and other strange letters, 
 which are found liere and there, would be highly interesting, but 
 we could not discover any. It is hollow within, stpiare, and about 
 twelve feet high. The upper part is wanting, and it is difficult to 
 assign wliat its destination mav have been. Kasbau Sardsch 
 Carhlsi% two leagues from the a})ove, one league from the sea, 
 and half a leao'ue from Senetzerk, is the remainder of a larije 
 buildinij;. Its aoe is decided by the Greek letters cut in many of 
 the s'juare stones. Near it, l)esides the substructions of the 
 !)uil{liiig belonging to this ruin, are manv others. Tifteen paces 
 south of the ruin is a catacoml), with the entrance on the west 
 side ; the interior is only five feet lono; by three feet and a half 
 broad, \Mth several receptacles for coffins. Near it is a well (but 
 u ithout water) and to the west a large palm l)ush. I think these 
 foiu' ruins last mentioned were on the hiah road to i'anetonium. 
 Kafir Medscked on the sea, near the well (»f the same name, In a 
 pictures(jue countiy, are tlu' remains of a large ibrtilied building, 
 which was destroyed only a lew years aiiO by Mahomet Ah 
 Vacha, and formerly served the Bedouins of these parts as a lurk- 
 ing place and corn magazine. There are very fruitful gardens near 
 it, and a small harbour, in which there were formerly a few shi])s, 
 th.it tiM(lc(l betweiii this place and Alexandria and Di'rna. In 
 ancKMt limes there was probal)ly a sea-po)t town here. Kasr 
 Jlasa iJclaha was a large mis-shapen linilding on the sea, near the 
 
i7i Ep^ypi avd Lyhia^ ifi 1821. 23 
 
 well of ikc same liaiiie, built by the later Arabs, and probably 
 used as a magazine. It lias several divisions, and the walls are so 
 hifih, that I think it was also used as a defence aojainst the hordes 
 that passed this way. Kasr Dsehdebye, four leagues from the 
 sea, eighty from Abonsir, and four from Agaba, is the largest of 
 all the ruins, but uninteresting as an architectural monument. It 
 is a parallelogram, sixty-two paces from east to west, and sevenfy- 
 two from north to south. There is a small cabinet in each corner, 
 'i'he structure, and some coins found in it, induce me to attribute 
 it to the Saracens. Near it, especially on the west, tliere are nu- 
 merous substructions. There are many sepulchres of Santons on 
 the plain, and still more on the eminences. Great respect is paid 
 to these monuments, and no infidel may enter the inner space. I 
 was often desired to go to a distance from them. The other Ma- 
 hometans think in the same manner ; in many places I was pur- 
 sued because I stopped in the burying-grounds. Once on my 
 reading to an Arab servant tlie inscription on a sepulchre, he ran 
 away with reverential awe, saying the deceased knew it. 
 
 But what is far more interesting than these shapeless masses of 
 stones, are the foundations and other remains of ancient towns 
 and villages, w-hich I traced whenever circumstances would per- 
 mit. The whole tract from Alexandria and Damanhour to the 
 slope of Agaba, and from the sea-coast to the distance of eight or 
 ten leagues, is strewn all over with tliem. The group of hills of 
 I^'Jgaibe was far more peopled and fertile than the southern and 
 vv'estern plain. Many cisterns and foundations of villages of the 
 times of the Greeks and the Arabs are scattered here. The nearer 
 3-011 approach the well of ^laddar^ the oftener you meet with traces 
 of considerable places, and there certainly was a sea-port town near 
 ii. In the low plain between IMaddar and Senetzerk, on the 
 southern elevation, there were several villages, and the fruitful 
 hollows to the north, between the above-mentioned foiu- ancient 
 ruins and the sea, were certainly well inhabited, as is testified by 
 numerous well-built cisterns and fine substructions. To the 
 north of Senetzerk, on a hill on the sea-shore, the solid foimdations 
 of a temple and other edifices, and innumerable pieces of marble 
 and valuable stone, show that an opulent town must once liave 
 stood there. The further you go from the sea the less dees the 
 country seem to have been peopled ; but even at the distance of 
 ten leagues spots are found with the most luxuriant vegetation, 
 ^and walls and foundations of buildings. All these remains indi- 
 cate a high degree of prosperity, and it would be interesting on 
 that account to determine the geographical situation of the most 
 important places in the JMareotic district mentioned by Ptolemy. 
 The intercourse which is still carried on between the Bedouins 
 of this country and Siwa, was probably very considerable in 
 
24 Sc/ioh's Trave/.<i 
 
 those ages when the po})ulation was so much more numerous- 
 Perhaps in ages anterior to all history, the Lybians dwelt in 
 these fertile tracts on the sea-coast, and kept up from hence a most 
 intimate connexion with the inhabitants of the Oasis of Jupiter 
 Amnion, or })artlv dwelt there themselves, and wliose descendants, 
 Inachus, ]'horoneus, Cecrops, and Danaus, made the Greeks ac- 
 quainted with the worship of Ju])iter Amnion, whom we find in 
 such high h(mour among them. This, however, a])plies only to 
 the Mareotic district. The other part is lietter calculated for 
 shepherd tri})es. Only on the sea, and on the great road leading 
 by Para^tonium into the Penta]){)]is, it is likely that more numerous 
 tribes resided, in the later times of the Persians and the Ptolemies, 
 to which some of the ruins we liave mentioned may be referred. 
 
 Of the coins which I found in the ruins of these places, some 
 are of the times of the Saracens, and sufficiently prove that they 
 inhabited all the coasts of this country. Hut most of them are 
 (ireek, or even older, and in a very liad state of preservation. 
 Arabic writers testify that Christians inhabited this tract. Their 
 o])stinate resistance against the Mahometans was ])erhaps the 
 cause of the entire destruction of all the places in which they 
 dwelt. The Sultans of Egvpt also bore sway here, till the coun- 
 try became the scene of the wanderinos of the Bedouins. 
 
 The jncscnt Inhabitants of this Counti\y. 
 
 The present inhabitants are Bedouins. They hve in camps, 
 which they remove from time to time, from two to three hundred 
 families together, under black tents of liair-clotli, whicli are very 
 s])acious, })ut low, and set up in several rows, each family having 
 one or more, according' to its ability. The women hardly ever dwell 
 se]iarately, but form throughout the day a circle apart, without 
 mixing in that of the men. The chief of each camp is a Sheik. 
 'J he most ])owerful in this district are \'aledali, Dsehimeat, and 
 CJarbi. They were formerly independent ; but for these ten years 
 tliey have paid to the l*acha of Kgypt an annual tribute in kind; 
 for instance, dates, which the Sheik pays for the rest, receiving an 
 indemnity. Their occupation is as sim])le as their provisicms. 
 The women prepare their })lain food, keep the tent and domestic 
 economy in ordi'r, braid mats, and tend the domestic animals. 
 The men guard the flocks, cultivate the ground, carry their pro- 
 duce for sale to Damanhour, the rendezvous of these Bedouins, 
 Alexjuidria, or Masr, accompany the camels they have hired 
 out, and, as soldiers born, defend the cause of the Pacha, as they 
 formerly did their own atxainst each other. The hoi'de of Vale- 
 dali furnishes above 800, Dsehimeat 400, Garbi J250 men. He- 
 sides many small caravans, we saw one ot" ahcn (> a thousand camels, 
 
in Ef^ypt and Lybia, hi 1821. 25 
 
 conducted by these Bedouins, conveying corn, beans, and manu- 
 factured goods from Egypt to Earbary, and others returning thi- 
 ther from Derna with wool and skins. This communication is the 
 more frequent, as the nearer way by Siwa is more inconvenient, and 
 the voyage by sea along the coast dangerous. Hence there is a 
 continual traffic backwards and forwards at the three passages 
 over the high Agaba, near the sea, where they centre. These 
 Bedouins liave lost much of their peculiar character since the 
 Pacha subdued them, drew their chiefs to his court, and made 
 them take Damanhour, instead of JVIeschid, for their rendezvous. 
 Yet many of them still lead the simple patriarchal life which the 
 poets have described in such pleasing colours. Their dress is very 
 .simple, and their diet plain, consisting of peas, beans, or barley 
 flour, mixed with pieces of barley bread and boiled, or bread 
 baked liked flat cakes, and eaten with onions. Butter is in general 
 use ; only the children take milk ; meat is seldom eaten. They 
 are very fond of dates, which they buy very cheap at Siwa, 
 They eat every thing from wooden platters, with the hollow hand, 
 and sitting on the ground. In many caiiips the boys learn to 
 read and write, and even the men employ mucli time in this 
 manner. They grow up without education, and are generally 
 very confined in their ideas. Their conversations are seldom in- 
 structive, and always very monotonous. I have often observed 
 them to talk for hours together about single words that one of us 
 had let fall, without doing any thing but repeat and wonder 
 at them. They never fish, and seldom hunt, though game is so 
 abundant. They often take gazelles alive, early in the mornino-, 
 while they are asleep. They are bad marksmen with the gun, 
 and find it more convenient to train falcons for the chace. Thefts 
 never occur among them, except that the passing caravans often 
 rob the flocks at pastiu'e, for which reason they are kept at a dis- 
 tance from the usual track of the caravans, and one of the shep- 
 herds v/atches on an eminence to give warning of the approach 
 of danger. They are little, lean, and sunburnt. Though these 
 lords of the desert lead such a healthy and peaceful life, they seem 
 to be subject to many cares, diseases, and even premature death. 
 They often asked our advice and our medicine, but could never 
 resolve to pay the two physicians any thing. Some promised to 
 shew their gratitude, but not unless the medicine did them good. 
 Some had cauterized the back of the neck, which is said to be a 
 common mode of cure among the Arabs. Their inattention to time 
 is so great, that few of them can tell their own age. Mohammed 
 Achmed, x\chsin, Achfeidha, Aberkau, are common names anions 
 them. In their frequent conversations about us they alwavs dis- 
 tinguished us by some epithet, as, the tall, the short, the rich, &c. 
 I had taken the name of Ben Jacob. Their remembrance of 
 VoVAOEs artd Travels, No. X^ M . To/. VITT. r. 
 
26 Scholz'a Travels 
 
 places is still more defective than that of names. Though I was 
 often six leagues from the caravan, I always found it again by 
 mindinir the direction ; once I was less fortimate, having gone 
 with two Ikdouins and a Hadschi from Tunis to look at the 
 ruins of Kasb Scliarklje, which took us a (jonsiderable distance 
 from the caravan, and when we attempted to overtake it, the 
 Bedouins missed the way. ^Ve luckilv met with some shepherds, 
 who directed us to the camp of Medsched. The inhabitants re- 
 ceived us well, and listened attentively to our account of the 
 object of our journey. AVe supped and slept very comfortably 
 on their carpets in the open air, and rejoined the caravan on the 
 folio vv ing day. They are zealous IVIahometans, and, like their 
 brethren, hate and despise infidels, and are inclined to supersti- 
 tion ; believers in astrology and charms against diseases ; on which 
 subject I found several books amono; them, one of wliich had the 
 title of Kdab Maizchn. There are ^i2\\' children, and still fewer 
 grown up persons, who have not five or more amulets (or written 
 charms) about their heads and necks. AVliile we stayed at Kasr 
 ]i)schdebie, they often came to our tent, and were fond of reading 
 in my Arabic books. This was done aloud in a large circle of 
 Bedouins. The reader made remarks on the text, and they all 
 listened for hours together with an attention whieh surprised me, 
 as the subject was very dry, e. (j. the Nubian Geography. I l^e- 
 came every day a greater iavoinite with them, and they wished to 
 keep me for some months in their camp. A book written by a 
 Christian, containing dialogues, sentences, and jjroverbs, in- 
 terested them still more, and the Sheiks took particular delight 
 in this book, which I unwillingly lent them, because it contained 
 violent attacks on the IMahometans, and I was extremely embar- 
 rassed when they read these. Unfortunately our Dragoman came 
 up on this occasion, and laughed, which so vexed the Sheik, tliat 
 he jielted him with stones. 1 spoke very seriously, saying that the 
 autiior was a Christian, and had spoken of them, as many of them 
 do of us Christians. 'J hey were satisfied with this explanation, 
 but the Sheik indul";ed in the most .d)usive lan^-uaire aij:ainst the 
 author and the Draiioman. They showed me their whole stock 
 of jVISS. One ))riest had fifteen, all on theological subjivts. T 
 obtained some for a copy of the Nubian (ieography. They 
 ofl'ered to sell me the Koran, and wished much to possess our 
 Gospels. None of our JJedouins performed regularly the five 
 daily prayers, most of them not at all, though many bore the 
 honourable title of Iladsthi, oi* .Ilnd^i. In general I did not 
 observe that the Ik'douins svere scrupulous in this respect. Only 
 once, when a priest from a neighbouring e;imj) was with us, I 
 saw them all at ]\Iogreb, regularly di'UNvn up. and perform their 
 prayers in the usual form. 
 
in Egypt and LybiUi in J 821. 21 
 
 Travellers have always spoken with enthusiasm of the hospi- 
 tality of the Bedouins, and they sometimes certainly received us 
 well, gave us, without interest, water and provisions, and answered 
 for our safety and our property ; but in general they made us 
 pay a high price, not only for provisions, but for every little 
 service ; coveted every thing they saw ; stole even our provisions, 
 which they seemed to consider as common property ; and when 
 they meant to behave particularly well, gave us their camel's flesh 
 and barley br^ad, for oiu' biscuit, rice and mutton, which were 
 ten times as valuable. The Bedouins of this country are, how- 
 ever, not so bad as they were represented to us. As the Sheik was 
 answerable for our lives, we were never to ffo to a distance from 
 the caravan without his knowledge, and without being accompa^- 
 nied by one of his soldiers. But sometimes the soldier would go 
 his way, and I mine; sometimes he had no mind, and I general[y 
 went alone. I \\as often six leagues from the caravan, saw camps 
 at a distance, had lono- conversations with Bpdouins belono-ino; to 
 them, and nobody ever seemed disposed to do me any violence. 
 On the contrary they gave me water and bread, and smiled at my 
 embarrassment and distrust. On the 4th of November I went 
 from Bir Dokan to the sea, in hopes of finding traces of Parae- 
 tooium. I met with many who wished to approach me, but I 
 always avoided them, and nobody pursued me. Late in the even- 
 ing, as I was returning, I met a flock of slieep ; the shepherd 
 came towards me, seemingly surprised at my being so late in this 
 solitude. As I avoided him, and walked faster, he called and ran 
 after me ; but v.hen I ran as fast as I could he stood still. In 
 our camp they thought I vras lost, and sent two of our Bedouins 
 after me, who missed me, and did not return till the next day. 
 The caravans too that I met were very obhging to me, and their 
 observations made me conjecture that the worst Bedouins of the 
 country had been given to us. In the desert they consider them- 
 selves as masters, and fear neither the Pacha nor any other. If 
 they were tlu'eatened, they threatened in return. If we began to 
 negociate, there was no coming to a conclusion, and if any thing- 
 was required of tliem, they made a thousand objections. They 
 held together when one of them Avas offended, otherwise thev 
 were continually quarrelling with each other. 
 
 To our oTeat sorrow we foiuid that even the Bedouins trouble 
 then* heads with politics, and tell lies, as in Europe. Thus a 
 caravan passing by, affirmed that the Pacha of Egypt would 
 make war on the Franks, and was already preparing for that piu- 
 pose. We did our utmost to contradict this report, so dangerous 
 to our safety, and v/ere aided by another piece of news from the 
 neighbouring camps, that the Pacha was certainly preparing for 
 j war, not against the Christians, but against the Sultan. Pohtical 
 
28 • ScJiolz's TravdU 
 
 motives were assioned to our journey to the Cyrenaica. The 
 "v>'hole country from Bengasi to Abousir was soon full of the 
 report that we were going, as emissaiies of the Pacha of Egypt, 
 into Tripoli, to prepare the way for him to conquer it ; also that 
 we were ffoinir to fetch treasures which had lon^j been known to 
 us, and for which, according to private accounts, the covetous 
 Bey of Bengasi had resolved beforehand to make us pay dear. 
 Some guessed that conquests were projected by the ]'' ranks, as a 
 general was at the head of the caravan. The rapidity with which 
 tile rcpoi't was spread in all directions was evident from the fact, 
 that the Bedouins in iNliddle Egypt spoke to me on the subject. 
 X^ven in Syria they talked of it. A report was spread among the 
 Bedouins at the well Chamani, that our caravan had been plun- 
 dered and murdered in the Tripolitcm territory. Several Bedouins 
 had told us already at Kasr Dschdebije tluit this was intended. 
 Two distant hordes, notorious as robbers, had resolved to sur- 
 prise us in the night, and only the exaggerated accounts of our 
 double-barrelled guns, and our night watches, had hitherto de- 
 terred them. Our liedouins were mucJi afraid of them, and both 
 on the first and second dnv after our dejinrture from Siwa, we were 
 obliged to be prepared for an attack. Thus was our caravan in 
 consideralile danger among these Bedouins, and it was high time 
 for it to retire on account of the attention tliat it excited, ^\'hen, 
 therefore, Otman, the Sheik, who had ]3ecn with our letters of re- 
 commendation to the Bey of Bengasi came back on the JOtii of 
 November, he was much displeased at our separation from the 
 general ; and when nevv's came that the Bey of Bengasi had indeed 
 received our letters of recommendation, but ^^()uld first ask the 
 advice of his superior, the Pacha of Trijioli, we were convinced 
 that the expedition was ill arranged, and that the execution of it 
 was im])ractica])U'. The answer and the escort, for which we 
 waited, and without which we could not travel in the very dan- 
 gerous territory of Tripoli, would perhaps never have reached 
 us ; a new messenger, if dispatcheil to Derna anil Bengasi, would 
 not liave brought the final answer in less than sixty days; which 
 was the shortest time the Bedouins allowed for it. 
 
 The language of these Bedouins is the Arabic, but ratlier cor- 
 rupted in their pronunciation, like any other language in the 
 mouths of the peasants. As their niode of writing is between 
 that of Egy})t and that of Barbarv, so is iheir language also; it 
 may therefore be dilHcult to find peculiar words among them, 
 but more easily some that have acquued a })eculiar signification. 
 
 The M'ords of their songs are as indeci'nt as thtir language ; 
 the grim.'ices and motions with which tlu'V accompany the song 
 are as immodest as tlieir conduct when they are alone, and even 
 in companv \\\\\\ llu' otlur sex. A single ^^•^s<' entertains them 
 
in Egypt and Li/bia^ in 182?!' 2d 
 
 for hours together. One sings while dancing ; the others answer by 
 clapping their hands; or he makes while singing all kinds of lasci- 
 vious, angry or joyful motions, while those around him leap up, 
 but without changing their place. Often he makes those move- 
 ments with another, who acts the part of a girl, always in quick 
 time, lively and even violent. They generally made a circle in the 
 evening, when two sang and the others danced. Even when tra- 
 velling they leaped beliind, or on the side of the caravan, one 
 sang, and the others answered in chorus. Their leaping most 
 resembles the Cossack dances. 
 
 The Country between Agaha and Siwa. 
 
 As soon as you have ascended the rising ground of Agaba, ycu 
 behold on all sides a boundless plain, rich in vegetation, which, 
 like that already described, is inhabited towards the west, but 
 towards the south is quite deserted. The vegetation is also more 
 scanty to the southward, till at length we find only a few 
 insulated verdant spots, after going twelve leagues, very rarely 
 any plants ; and then to Siwa hardly any thing but stony, clayey, 
 or sandy plains and ridges of hills. The beaten track, into which 
 we came on the 15th of November, eight leagues beyond Agaba 
 to the south-east, is mnrked by many heaps of stones ; every one 
 of our Bedouins added something to the heaps : an excellent 
 custom in a desert where the way is so seldom to be dis- 
 covered. It is the great road, which in the remotest times led 
 from these parts, especially from Parsetoniimi to Siwa. A league 
 further we came to a spot which has always been considered as 
 highly dangerous. The roads from the sea side, Alexandria, 
 Derna, Bengasi, and Angela, meet here. Many caravans are 
 plundered and murdered at this place, and we saw many traces 
 of such. We were obliged to have our guns ready, and the 
 Bedouins, who always magnify the danger to enhance their own 
 importance, kept up a continual firing. 
 
 The Oasis is recoo-nized at the distance of four leagues bv the 
 great chain of mountains that surround it, and the sight of which 
 excited the greatest joy. The nearer we approached, the more 
 interesting was the prospect. Sometimes they are regularly 
 formed like walls, sometimes pointed, then round, high or low, 
 '■ and quite bare. Lime-stone is predominant. Petrifications, sea- 
 snails, muscles, oysters, wood, and many large pieces of gypsum, 
 are found every where, all mingled together in the greatest con- 
 fusion. After winding for half a league between these mountains, 
 and admiring the fine echo, we came, continually descending, into 
 the Oasis itself. These mountains present on the inner side a 
 far more picturesque prospect, anil it is surprising how these 
 
^ Scholz's TraveL^ 
 
 masses of sand have ])ceii able so long to withstand the assaults of 
 tlie winds nnd torrents of rain. In the desert between Au:aba and 
 Siwa, sandstone is ])redoniinant, then (|uartz and limestone, and 
 the surfaee is in many ])laecs strewed with earnelian and dintstone. 
 This niav be suid of the whole Lybian desert. The conipontnt 
 ])arts of tlie boundless plains, ehains of hills, or insulateil emi- 
 nences, are 'sometimes sand, more rarely clay, and sometimes 
 entirely masses of stone. The vegetation is less varied than on 
 the sea-side, and it is singular that we fountl here in the desert, 
 pl.mts that were quite green, while (m the sea-side they were 
 entirely withered. 
 
 The race of animals diminishes in the same pro})ortion as the 
 plants. Locusts swarm in the spots where plants are found ; and 
 there was also abundance of flies, moths, and lizards. A water- 
 hen, ])robably from Siwa, liad strayed eight leagues south of 
 Agaba. Jlavens and other fowls of j)rey are likewise seen in the 
 neighbourhood. Fifteen leagues further to the south there are 
 probably only ostriches, and hyenas, and these in small ninnbers. 
 
 This desert never was inhabited, on account of the want of 
 water and the barrenness of the soil. In the remotest ages it was 
 crossed from Alexandria, twelve days journey from Siwa, or from 
 the very populous tract on the sea-coast, to fetch the produc- 
 tions of Siwa and Augela, or to proceed thence into the interior 
 of Africa. 
 
 S'nea. 
 
 The particularly fertile part of the Oasis of Jupiter Amnion, 
 is, according to the inhabitants, one day's journey in circum- 
 ference, about four leagues long, aiul from half to three-cpiarters 
 of a lea<xue broad. From east to west it lies very low. On the 
 north side there are many bare mountains, which for about live 
 leagues inclose tlie hollow, but gradually diminish, and become 
 similar to the higii uneven bank which is on the south side of the 
 Oasis. The soil of the ])lain is throughout sandy, mixed with 
 salt; the sand is on the surface, and the salt a loot deei) in great 
 abundance. I did not t)bserve that the earth is coverecl with salt 
 after rain, though I examined it on the ^3d of November, when 
 we had some pretty heavy showers. The mountains, which are 
 from 200 to 500 ieet high, consist of sand or limestone. The 
 Oasis is strewed with the above-mentioned petrifications, especially 
 near to the eminences on the south and north sitles. Salt lakes 
 ari' in ilie east part, another in tlie west part of the Oasi.s. Streams 
 flow through U in all directions, and run into the little lakes. 
 Twenty springs of fresh water, (among which is the fountain of 
 the Sun near the Tem})le,) almost as many of brackish water. 
 
in Egypt and Lybia, in 1821. St 
 
 and frequent rains in the two winter months, fertiUze the soil. 
 Meadows, bushes, palm-groves, gardens, and corn-fields, diversify 
 the scene, and the most luxuriant vegetation delights the eye. 
 The lakes are covered with water-fowl ; in the gardens there are 
 palms, olives, pomegranates, plums, vines, melons, &c. The 
 dates, which are far better than those of Angela, and esteemed 
 eqvial even to those of Tunis, are annually exported in great 
 quantities to Alexandria and Cairo. The pomegranates are excel- 
 lent, and remarkably large. Barley, rice, and beans, are culti- 
 vated in the fields. 
 
 In the animal world the varieties are as few as in the vegetable 
 kingdom, but equally numerous. Worms, insects, (especially 
 flies, lice, and fleas,) are found every where; and domestic animals, 
 such as cows, asses, goats, sheep, dogs, cats, fowls, &c. are very 
 numerous. Camels cannot live here, and in some years, many of 
 those belonging to the caravans die from the effects of the plants, 
 and the water of this country. It is necessary to feed them with 
 dates, and to give them water very rarely. Even this does not 
 save them at certain seasons of the year. The inhabitants are 
 also very numerous, though uncivilized. The number of the 
 men is said to be above 3000. Thus, in a small spot in the midst 
 of the desert, where, for the distance of six to twelve days 
 journey round scarcely a living being is to be seen, there 
 reigns a degree of animation, such as may be sought in vain in 
 the most fertile parts of Europe, and which fully confirms all 
 that Diodorus, Arrian and Curtius, have said of the fertility of 
 this Oasis. 
 
 Hence, it was always, and in the remotest ages, very well 
 pco]3ied, and we every where found traces of more flourishing 
 times. The ruins of the temple of Jupiter Amnion (now called 
 Haima Caida,) are the most important, and most renowned. 
 M. Drovetti possesses a very accurate drawing of them. Of the three 
 parts of which, according to Strabo, this temple consisted, only two 
 can now be distinguished in the space where the ruins lie. The 
 foundations of the third division are probably under the adjacent 
 houses. The people told us of the remains of seven towns, and 
 particularly of a Heathen and of a Christian city. The Cata- 
 combs on the mountain El A/essagaret, which the inhabitants be- 
 lieve to be of the highest antiquity, and where accurate researches 
 would probably lead to many interesting discoveries ; those on 
 Mount Rakjje and others, and the ruins of Busruf, Korascha, 
 Otbeija, and Lawaw, on the eastern parts of the Oasis, bear tes- 
 timony to this fact. These remains likewise inform us who were 
 the earlier inhabitants. The architecture, the pahitings and 
 hieroglyphics, indicate the most remote antiquity, and their deriva- 
 tion from the Egyptians, whose usual works of art they surpass by 
 
$2 Scholz^s Travels 
 
 the superior correctness of their forms. It is unanimously asserted 
 that several statues have been used in the foundations of houses, 
 but thev are soufjjht in vain amonfr the ruins. It is probable that 
 the number of them was never considerable, on account of the 
 distance of tlie riiaterials. But we have more reason to be sur- 
 prised that no ancient coins are now to be found on this spot, 
 where sucli rich offerings were made to Jupiter Ammon, for a 
 happy journey, bv the caravans going into the interior of Africa. 
 After repeated in(piiries, and after searcli made by many of the 
 inhabitants, one of them at length brought me a piece of small 
 money coined at Malta in 1760, which he declared to be the 
 oldest coin to be found in Siwa. Most of the other ruins are 
 probably of later date. The earlier inhabitants, like the present, 
 had doubtless some intercourse with tliose of the Mareotic terri- 
 tory, and with them adopted Christianity in the second century. 
 Several bishops of this Oasis are mentioned in the history of the 
 Patriarchs ai Alexandria. iVIahometanism spread there in the 
 seventh centiu-y. After the depopuhition of the ]\Iareotic dis- 
 trict, they attained an independence, in which, according to the 
 testimonv of Arabian writers, they have seldom been disturbed, 
 and which they still endeavour to maintain, though they have 
 been obliged, foi' these six years past, to pay tribute to the Pacha 
 of Egypt. 
 
 The present inhabitants of Siwa live in four miserable villages, 
 built in the Arabian manner, M'hich are placed upon eminences, 
 and surrounded with high walls to protect them from hostile 
 attacks. ISelow Siwa Kebir (the principal place) there is towards 
 the north, an enclosed space, whicli is generally occupied in 
 winter by the caravans ; with a small moscpie in it, dedicated 
 to Sheik Soleiman, iuid close to it three large date magazines, 
 called by them ]Masdack, where they keep and expose to sale 
 their whole stock. They sort the dates very carcfullv, and give 
 each kind a dilierent name. Theii' annual produce i.> so large 
 that 500 camel loads are exported. AW' were allowed to eat as 
 much as we pleased, without ])avment ; the only proof of hospi- 
 tality that we received dui'ing our stay. They caiTV on their 
 trade by barter, exchanging their dates, olives, cattle, and hand- 
 some baskets made of pahii leaves, for corn, tol)acco, manufac- 
 tured goods, especially linen, coffee, \'c., which are brought by , 
 the Arabs from Alexandria, or by the Bedouins. They are nuicli I 
 attached to the Mahometan law, and liale more or less all who are 
 not of their religion. We e\])erienced llu' ellecls of this liatred ; 
 none of their Sheiks visiti'd us m our tents, and our interpreter 
 was always ()l)liged to wait at tlu" door of ilu' house, for the 
 permission which we often asked, l)ut in vaiti, to vi.sit the curiosities 
 of the Oasis. 
 
in Egypt cmd Lylna, in 1821. 33 
 
 There are several Sheiks, over whom a governor is placed by 
 the Pacha. The majority of the inhabitants consist of natives ; 
 but there are likewise many negroes from the interior of Africa, 
 sixty or eighty days"* journey distant. This mixture had some 
 influence on their manners and language. They live on very 
 plain food, chiefly their own produce, and their distress differs 
 but little from that of the inhabitants of Egypt. They have not 
 a healthy look, and af e said seldom to live to a great age. Almost 
 every year many are carried off" by a fever, caused by the water 
 and unripe fruit, which is said to be often contagious. Their 
 complexion is dark ; their physiognomy between that of tlie 
 Egyptians and the negroes, and of a middle stature. They 
 are selfish, but yet good-natured, and the ill treatment and 
 liindrances we experienced are not to be ascribed to them, but to 
 their Sheiks and Imans, and our Bedouins, who lusted after our 
 presents, which were intended for the principal people at Bengasi 
 and Derna. Our Bedouins desired many of them to beat us : 
 they replied we were under the special protection of the Pacha, 
 to which the malicious Bedouins returned that the Pacha was at a 
 distance ; but they said we were good people and had not offended 
 them ; why then should they beat us ? 
 
 Their language is different from the Arabic, which they, how- 
 ever, both speak and write, and in this manner they may have 
 become assimilated. Their pronunciation is more guttiwal than 
 that of the Arabs, and our Bedouins assured me that they had 
 much difficulty in understanding tliem when they conversed among 
 tJiemselvcs. An accurate knowledo-e of all the words in this 
 language, which are not Arabic, will prove that it is identical 
 with the Schillah, which is spoken by many tribes of northern 
 Africa, and contains many words from the Punic, from which it 
 has probably been formed. 
 
 In giving these short notices, I must beg the reader to consider 
 the painful situation of our party. I was'^alvvays prepared to 
 risk even my life, to converse freely with the inhabitants, and to 
 visit their curiosities, but the danger to which I should thereby 
 expose my companions, obliged me to do the first privately, and 
 silently to refrain from the latter. It v/as only on our departure 
 that I separated from tliem, without, however, obtaining much 
 more than a general local knowledge, for we coidd not find the 
 Temple, and the fountain of the Sun, and none of the inha- 
 bitants would show us the way. We ascended several eminences, 
 and found the above statements of the inhabitants respecting 
 the extent of the Oasis in general confirmed. Though this Oasis 
 is separated from the tract on the sea-coast by an extensive desert, 
 the climate is nearly the same, the numerous lakes, streams, and 
 springs, having the same effect as the vicinity of the sea. 
 
 Voyages and Travels, A^o. XL VI. Fo/.' VIII. r 
 
34 Scholz's Travels 
 
 This Oasis was Ibrmerly notorious for the robberies committed 
 on travellers. Our Hedouins, most of whom had been l)efore, 
 pointed out the places where the banchtti lay in ambush, and we 
 always had to put ourselves in a postiux- of defence in their neigh- 
 ])ourho()d. IJut tlie cannon of tlie Pacha of EgVl^t lias spread 
 terror among them, and they not only pay him a regular annual 
 tribute in dates, but seldom attack caravans travelling under his 
 protection. To me, however, the inhabitants appear less sus- 
 ])icious than the vagabonds who resort hitlier from all parts of 
 northern xVfrica, and return home with their booty along with the 
 caravans. 
 
 Description of the Country heticeoii Siwa and Kara. 
 
 The two chains running to the east, which enclose Siwa, go for 
 eight leagues nearly parallel in this direction. Four leagues be- 
 yond the Oasis the ground is less salt, and the vegetation more 
 scanty. Sometimes you see tufts of shrubs, and on tlie right, at 
 a distance, a grove of palms. The moimtains are in tlie gi'catest 
 disorder, and the whole tract has the apjiearance of having been 
 once the bed of a great salt lake, which was the deepest where 
 Siwa now is, in which the slime collected with all kinds of ferti- 
 lizing substances; it seems to have been from one to two and a 
 half leagues in breadth, through an extent of seven and a half 
 leagues from east to west, to have then divided into the south- 
 western and north-eastern arms, to have contained several small 
 islands, its being sandy and its banks of limestone. The bed of 
 the south-eastern arm declines twenty leagues east of Siwa into 
 another little Oasis, called Kara, and also little Siiea. The 
 windings, which this hollow makes eight leagues beyond Siwa, 
 oblige the caravans to leave it. We come into a boundless desert 
 
 {)lain, where for eight leagues together we see nothing but some 
 )are hills, and tracks of caravans. Then follow fresh strata of 
 limestone, and hollows, furrowed and undermined by torrents qf 
 rain. The Arabs call this place Regebel IJagle. You cannot 
 proceed a step here without meeting with ])etriiications. Petrified 
 fungi were particularly numerous. Sand hills stand close to 
 strata of limestone of manifold forms, stri])ed with black, red, 
 and yellow, the confirmation of which indicates some great revo- 
 • lution. 
 
 Kara extends three leaoucs in leiiMh from north-east to soutli- 
 
 • • • • 1 
 
 west, and is half a league in breadth. It has five springs of fresh 
 
 water, of which that in the well of Kara, at the foot of the moun- 
 tain (m which the village stands, is remarkably good. The vege- 
 tation is not so luxuriant as in Siwa, tlu" shrubs, tri'cs, and animals, 
 fewer, and the po})ulation very small, tlu' men being only forty 
 
171 Egypt and Lybia, in 1821. 35 
 
 in numl)er. In religion, language, and manners, they resemble 
 those of Siwa ; they know nothing of any ruins of ancient 
 edifices. They are very poor, live in half ruined houses, and pay 
 little attention to the cultivation of their gardens, and their only 
 crops are barley and dates. Since the visit of the Pacha many 
 of the inhabitants have removed to Siwa or Masr. 
 
 Description of the Country hetzveen Kara and Libbuk. 
 
 As soon as wc leave the hollow of Kara, we see to the right 
 and left naked mountains, and to the left in particular, a chain 
 extending from west to east to the vicinity of Terraneh, and con- 
 nected with the above-mentioned hollow or dell. We proceeded 
 either along the foot of them, or a quarter or half a league off, 
 till one league from Libbuk. On this journey the most fertile 
 spots were at Cheische, eleven leagues from Kara, and at Bomarsu, 
 three leagues further, about half way between Kara and Libbuk. 
 This last is a plain about two leagues long, and half a league 
 broad, where the vegetation is very rich, with sgme palms, and 
 a well, the water of which even the animals will not di'ink. The 
 summit of the chain is from 200 to 400 feet above the supposed 
 bed of the lake, which is connected with the Oasis. It goes 
 sometimes to the north-east, and sometimes to the south-east, but 
 seldom due east, yet we chiefly kept close along the chain of 
 mountains where the track of the caravan is, because the Bedouins 
 assured us that there were dangerous holes under the stratifica- 
 tions, which lie piled upon one another like immense flakes of 
 ice. We saw every where the footsteps of hyenas and wolves, 
 the holes of mice and insects, and a great number of snails. But 
 even the fertile spots of Chiesche, Bomarsu, and Libbuk, seem 
 never to have been the abode of man. 
 
 ^ The above-mentioned petrifications, which are also spoken of 
 by Strabo, (p. 49, 50. Edit. Casaub.) are met with in this whole 
 tract ; and behind Libbuk there are besides many pieces of 
 petrified palm-trees, black and very solid, which are frequently 
 vised as marks to show the way ; they are often very large, and 
 their original form is but little altered. Fungi, testaceous lime- 
 stone, sand, and clay, are the component parts of this whole 
 country, which are observed mixed and confusedly thrown toge- 
 ther by storms, but frequently, too, separated in large masses. 
 They often stand alone in the form of a pyramid, and then the 
 various component parts may be easily distinguished, especially 
 the ferragenous parts, which alternating in black, yellow, brown, 
 red, or variegated stripes, make an interesting appearance, but are 
 so friable, that we cannot sufficiently wonder at their long preserva- 
 tion. This lake extended thus far, and perhaps even to the neigh- 
 
36 Scholz's Travela 
 
 )K)urliood of TerraiU'h; it vark'd in breadth and dtptli, and was 
 inhabited ])v all kinds of marine animals. A lun'rieane, or some 
 convulsion of natin-e, broke throuoh the sandy bank, the greater 
 part of the water of the lake flowed throiio;li the ])lain, which 
 declines towards the sea, the rest settled in the deep places, where 
 it fertilized the oroimd in an extraordinary deti,i-ee, and made 
 those beautifid valleys which we call Oases, or where palms and , 
 many trees (rrow tofjjether without needing the hand of man. It 
 miL;ht now l)e diflleult to fix the i)oint Mhere the waters In'oke 
 l]u-()U<rh. I should jxuess two places, where I chiefly observed 
 the gradual descent towards the sea. One is north of Siwa, 
 the second north-east of Kara ; the last of which turns to the 
 east, and then to the north. There is no point between l.ibbuk 
 and Terraneh, where the breach can be su})posed to have taken 
 place. Our su])position explains the whole nature of tliis coun- 
 try. Springs of fresli water, as at Siwa, Kara, Cheisclie, &c. 
 are frequently observed in the sea, and in salt lakes. AMiether 
 the vegetation was first produced by the care of man, or what is 
 most probable, the seeds were ])rought thither by tlie waters 
 from Kgy|)t, its luxiu'iance can be explained only by this hypo- 
 thesis. 
 
 Alescandria. 
 
 Alexandria lies on a slip of land between the Mediterranean 
 and Lake IMareotis, in an imcidtivated ])lain, bi-oken by hills only 
 towards the »»outh, on two laroe harbours, the old one towards 
 the west, and the new one tow^ards the north. 'J'hough the soil 
 seems sandy and sterile, yet in the gardens, and even here ;md 
 there in the open coiuitry, besides palms, sycamores, and other 
 trees, many ve<rctables are cultivated. Sycamores are seldom 
 seen here, except in gardens, and they would have become very 
 scarce in Kgvpt, had not the present Pacha thought fit to 
 cncouraire the cultivation of them, for the sake of the silk worms. 
 In the Bey'*s garden there are two apple-trees, and in that of the 
 English Consul one called Nibga, the fruit of which is the size of 
 a walnut. l*rovij»ions of almost every kind are procured from 
 the islands, and Egv])t, except poultry, of whicli there is abun- 
 dance. The flies and gnats are very troublesome here, as tiiey 
 are all over EgV])t : but there is no instance of any jiersons being 
 mortally wounded by a snake or scorpion. IMaiiy of the inhabi- 
 tants know how to catdi venomous serpents, and teach them to 
 dance, &:c., which is done by stunning them. All other accounts 
 of the matter arc groundless. The air is pure, aiul never t(X> 
 warm ; the ni<>hts here and on the whole coast ari' the heaviest in 
 June and Fuly. About this time, and i V(.!i in .\pril and May, 
 
in Egypt and Lybia, i?i 1821. ST 
 
 the most clouds are seen, but they do not then, any nioi'e than in 
 August and September, descend in rain. On the whole coast it 
 rains only in October, November, December, and January, some- 
 times, but very seldom, in December and February, generally 
 with a south-west wind, seldom with west or north, and never 
 with east or south winds. Of late years there have been two 
 earthquakes in Egypt; one in 1809, the other in 1813; both 
 very violent; the last extended to the whole island of Candia, 
 Lower Egypt, and even a part of Middle Egypt, but neither 
 Alexandria nor Cairo suffered any injury. In general eartlu^uakes 
 were never so dangerous in Egypt as in Asia Minor, the IVlorea, 
 Sicily, Portugal, and other countries. 
 
 Alexandria is full of rubbish of ancient buildings, among 
 which are large pieces of beautiful marble and granite, and many 
 foundations, vaults, and pieces of walls, which are carefidly 
 sought after by the Arabs, to be used in new buildings. It is 
 probable that very interesting discoveries are often made, but 
 very little attention is paid to them. Thus, I wa^ told, about 
 thirty-five years ago, many rolls of papyrus were found, but were 
 immediately burned by order of the Bey. I attempted in several 
 places to advise the Arabs who were ^-rgging, and direct them to 
 certain objects, but they pelted me with stones. The eastern j)art 
 of the Pharos, the ancient promontory of Lochius, are under 
 water ; the trates of the Circus and the Hippodrome are ex- 
 tremely insignificant; and those of the great palaces of the 
 Ptolemies, their library and baths, have entirely disappeared. 
 They lay on the new harbour, and their foundations nrjght cer- 
 tainly be traced by digging. In the same manner, as the retiring 
 of the sea shewed the halls of Cicero's villa, with their marble 
 seats, at Mola, and as the I'emains of Regina Diocla have been 
 observed in the water near Perasto, in the Bocche di Cattaro, so 
 have splendid remains of the above-mentioned buildings been 
 seen here under similar circumstances, and not a year passes but 
 stones of inestimable value, and gold and silver coins, are found 
 on the shore. 
 
 The baths of Cleopatra are generally kno\Mi ; the celebrated 
 Scrapium lies to the south-west, near Pompey's Pillar, now out of 
 the city walls. On ascending an eminence you can still plainly see, 
 amidst the rubbish, the wall as it most probably stood ; but it is 
 impossible to distinguish the remarkable colonnade, nor is there 
 any trace of the columns of red marble, of which there were six- 
 teen on each of the longer, and sixty-seven on each of the shorter 
 sides. The best proof that the Scrapium stood here, seems, liow- 
 ever, to be the discovery made some years since, two hundred and 
 fifty paces south of Pompey's Pillar, when the workmen employed 
 in digging the new canal found several statues erected in honour 
 
38 Scholz^s Travels 
 
 of the God of Hcaltli, and wliicli are now in the inestimable col- 
 lection of M. Drovetti. 
 
 The foundation of Ponipey''s Pillar is composed of large pieces 
 of granite, now repaired with l)rick^, and cemented with lime. 
 The pedestal is a smgle block of granite, the breadth of which 
 is the same on all sides, namely, five feet eight inches. An 
 ancient drawing, which is in the house of a Maronite Bishop, on 
 jVfount Lebanon, shews that there was once a statue of bronze on 
 the pillar, which was coined into money under the Caliphate of 
 \ alici, son of Abdalmalich. A statue of colossal size stands on 
 the sunnnit; but the drawing is not of such a nature as to enable 
 us to give any particulars, except that the position of the hands 
 seem to indicate that they held something. It is not only among 
 the rubbish that many marble and granite pillars arc seen, but in 
 most of the houses in the city, where they are used for the colon- 
 nades roimd the court-yards, for door-posts, &:c. ]\Iany of the 
 mos(pies were once handsome Christian churches, with three aisles, 
 in a good style, but they are disfigured by changes and decorations 
 m a bad taste. Of the great church of St. Athanasius only three 
 line granite colunms now remain. It was converted into a mosque, 
 which was entirely destroy jd by th«-French at the end of the last 
 century. The churcli of the Greeks is very old, on the scite of 
 a prison, \\'liere Diocletian caused many Christians to be put to 
 death. On the ruins of a prison St. Saba built a church, but the 
 rehcs were preserved in the patriarchal church at Cairo. Like 
 the city it has been several times destroved, and is composed of 
 all kinds of fragments. It has three aisles, is very small, in the 
 usual Greek form, with bad paintings, and some statues. In the 
 chapel of St. Catharine they preserve as a relic the stone with 
 which martyrdom was inflicted on that saint. Only five monks 
 live in the convent connected with it, and only sixty men of Alex- 
 andria, chielly merciiants, belong to that church. Near it is the 
 uretchetl Co})tic convent, \\\{\\ a small church, for the very incon- 
 siderable Coptic congregation, which has been lately rebuilt, 
 having been wholly destroyed duiing the French invasion. The 
 Latins have the largest church, and the annexed convent, with 
 two Franciscan monks from the Holy Land, has gained in extent 
 and in internal solidity since the present })acha has governed 
 Figypt. 'Hieir congregation generally exceeds two thousand. 
 The Catholics of the (i reek- Armenian persuasion, and alst) tlie 
 Maronites, frecjuent this church, for want of one of their own; 
 and tliey have usually two ck'rgvmen here, who are at the same 
 lime scJioolmastiMs, The Latins iiave not yet established a school, 
 and j)iefcr seniling their children to Luiope for eilucation. The 
 niajority of the Franks here never iitlend the church, and their 
 morals, as in most of the connnercial towns, are greatly corru])ted. 
 
in Egypt and Lybiciy in 1821. 39 
 
 The Franks of" the Reformed Church baptize and bury in tlie 
 Greek church. Within these few years botli the Latin and 
 Greek convents have hospitals attached to them, (tliat of the 
 Latins for sixty persons), the object of which cannot be suf- 
 ficiently commended in a country where the poor stranger is des- 
 titute of all assistance and medical advice, and is left to perish, 
 like the natives, who are in general wholly neglected. 
 
 Both the interior and the exterior walls of the city were built 
 by the present pacha, but they are not at all adapted to repel a 
 hostile attack. I never saw soldiers on guard so careless as those 
 in the three gafes and in the fort. The streets are narrow, 
 crooked, and unpaved ; the houses mean, having, instead of 
 windows, wooden lattices, which are often very ingeniously made. 
 Most of the houses have a projection, which contains the apart- 
 ments of the family. They are seldom painted ; when they are 
 it is with landscapes, in which camels are never omitted. In the 
 hope of finding some inscriptions, I examined, but in vain, most 
 of the cisterns in and near Alexandria. They differ little in 
 their construction, but their size is very various. The walls of 
 fifty that I saw were as fresh as if they had been built only a few 
 years ago, and they were in such a rude Arabian style, that there 
 was probably never any intention of adorning them with in- 
 scriptions. There is certainly not a single ancient one among 
 them. In the month of September they were almost all without 
 water. It is said there are one hundred of them in and near 
 Alexandria. 
 
 The population of Alexandria amounts to 12,000 or 15,000 
 souls. The Franks live on very good tenns with the ^Nlaho- 
 metans, both here and in the rest of Egypt, and disputes between 
 them are speedily arranged to the satisfaction of both parties, by 
 a commission appointed for the purpose. Trade here becomes 
 active and convenient since the completion of the canal, and the 
 building of the corn magazines. The Franks in Egypt and 
 Syria generally make use of the Italian language, as thev do of 
 the French at Smyrna and Constantinople. Their European 
 goods are very dear, for they generally require 400 per cent, 
 profit. There ai'e very few learned Hellenists to be met with 
 here, and it is equally difficult to find among the IVIahometans 
 any who have a taste for literature. "When I enquired for books, 
 I was always referred to Cairo. The Franks are employed almost 
 exclusively in trade. They live in a very insulated manner ; and 
 the dread of the plague confines them to their apartments for the 
 greater part of tlie year. 
 
40 S'cholz's Travels 
 
 Egypt tmcler Mehemet Alt Pacha. 
 
 Mclienict Ali Pacha, the present viceroy of Egypt, by his suc- 
 cessful expctlition against tlie Wecliabites, and another to Nubia, 
 by the establishment of manufactories, by the construction of the 
 canal from Alexandria to Fum el INIaclnnudije, where it joins the 
 Nile, and especially by his commercial connections in all the great 
 maritime cities of Europe, his riches, his respectable military ami 
 naval force, and his good treatment of the Franks, has acquired a 
 great and solid reputation. Many of his endeavours to civilize 
 Egy})t and to extend her manufactories have indeed failed, l)ecause 
 the natives are not fit for such employment, and the Franks require 
 sucli hlgli wages that Ills goods cost twice as much as those 
 brought from Europe ; but still the endeavoiu' is worthy of ])raise. 
 The chief obstacle to the im])rovement of the country, under his 
 government, is the despotism which characterises all his enterprises. 
 He is unlimited master of the soil and all that it produces: no- 
 body has any landed property, and nobody is rich except himself 
 and some of his ofhcei's, as long as he permits them to be so. He 
 has the monopoly of the produce of Egypt, and even of the East 
 India goods that come through that country; he suffers no com- 
 ))etltors except the few commercial houses whom he favours ; and 
 hitherto nobody has been able to resist this despotism. He fixes 
 the [)rices, treats all merchants and captains of merchantmen at 
 Ills pleasure, and sells only to his favourites, so that many ves.-els 
 nnist leave Alexandria Avithout cargoes, and many merchants 
 have been without any business for some years. If there were not 
 such conflictln"- Interests, the consuls would lono- since have made 
 complaints to their respective ministers at Constantino})le, who 
 would liave claimed the execution of the existing connnercial 
 treaties. But single complaints make no impression, and the 
 Divan too seems unable to protest with effect against the proceed- 
 ings of the powerful Pacha. Hence the many merchants a\ ho in 
 iSloand 1816 were at the height of prosperity, but were ruined 
 by misfortunes in 1817 and 1818, Mill be long involved in dis- 
 tress and never be able to pay the millions of debt to the Pacha. 
 I am assured that within a short period twenty-seven have failed, 
 seven ;H*e in imminent danger, and iive must give uj) their bu.si- 
 iiess in a few years. In 18:^0 the Pacha commanded those who 
 could not pay the thliHl ])art of their debt to him to leavt> the 
 country. He governs with unlimited ])ower from the Medlter- 
 r.iiu'an to Dongola ; from Arlsh, the Deserts of Arabia, the Ked 
 Sea as far as Agabn, Siwah, the Natron ti'rrltory, the great aiui 
 lilllc O.'ises, and even the })rlnces of Seimaar .nul Darfour now 
 tremble before his mighty arm. 
 
i/i Egypt and Lybia, in 1821. 41 
 
 The Bedouins of tlie Mareotic and Natr<Mi territory are hi? 
 soldiers. The corps of Mamelukes is supplied with recruits from 
 all parts of the Turkish empire, and what his troops want in 
 discipline and skill, is made up by their courage, and the valour 
 of their leaders, and the deficiency of his enemies in cannon and 
 ammunition. About three millions of men are subject or tribu- 
 tary to him, and all IMahometans are answerable for the security 
 of the caravans going in pilgrimage to Mecca. The form of 
 government is well known, and the great influence of some in- 
 telligent Franks in the ameliorations that are attempted excite 
 hopes of a real improvement in the state of Egypt. But the 
 most judicious persons entertain doubts on this head, if the Pacha 
 continues to exercise the same tyranny over agriculture and 
 commerce, and the lives of his subjects. Egypt is, besides, defi- 
 cient in population, which alone can save the Delta, once the most 
 fertile country in the v/orkl, from being converted into a desert. 
 The Rosetta mouth of the Nile is so choked up with sand that 
 even small vessels often run aground. They cannot proceed 
 without a strong favourable wind, for which they often have to 
 wait for weeks together. What would become of the Paradise 
 of Egypt ; what would become of Rosetta, with its lofty pleasant 
 houses, its fine gardens, its palm groves, and luxurious corn- 
 fields, without the overflowing of the Nile ? It is to be feared 
 that the masses of sand pressing from east to west, which in the 
 desert between Damietta and Rosetta cover or swallow up like 
 floods of water, lofty pillars, houses, and even palm trees, will 
 soon change into a desert this fine tract, watered by the western 
 arm of the Nile, and the canals that are supplied from it, and will 
 leave only one remaining; of the seven arms of the Nile which 
 once fertilized the Delta. Wo to the rulers who for above these 
 thousand years, have contributed by their neglect to bring about 
 so unhappy a result. The evil cannot be remedied except by a 
 judicious direction of the water upon scientific principles ; but 
 numerous hands are requisite to such a work. 
 
 Mehemet Ali receives with kindness, fugitives from all parts 
 of the world, and gives them land to cultivate ; thus he was a 
 considerable gainer in particular by the late persecutions of the 
 Catholic Greeks in Damascus, and of the Catholic Armenians in 
 Aleppo and Constantinople. The object of his late expedition 
 to Nubia, w-as also, to obtain an encrease of population for 
 Egypt. But what is gained by these means is lost again by the 
 plague, dysentery, and mortality among children. The most 
 destructive of all evils is the plague, which in the yeai's 1820 and 
 1821, desolated Alexandria and Cairo, and even committed 
 ravages on board the European vessels to an extent hitherto im- 
 known. It is the more formidable, as both the causes and the 
 
 Voyages and Travels, No. XLVI. FoI. VIII. t 
 
42 Scholz's Travels 
 
 remedies against it are unknown. It is certain tliat it is pro- 
 pagated by contact, but why some persons are more or less sus- 
 ceptible than others of taking the infection, must remain a riddle 
 till physiology is placed on a more steady foundation: it is cer- 
 tainly not a disease of the nerves. It is remarkable that the 
 symptoms })artly agree with those pointed out by Thucydides in 
 liis account of the contagion at ^Vtfiens during the Peloponnesian 
 war. The same evil whicli then afflicted Athens, and ncjw depo- 
 pulates the Turkish empire, })robablv raged among the Greeks 
 before Troy. It is therefore old, perhaps as old as the Deluge. 
 Suppose that the typhus had })roceeded from the exhalation of the 
 heaps of animal bodies, which must liave been dissolved in 
 corruption at that time, and under certain circumstances liad been 
 after a lapse of years again developed by contact ? Certain peri- 
 odical winds, such as the chamise in Egypt, and the mode of living 
 among the Arabs, may have an influence, yet the main cause 
 is contact ; and therefore a medical police and strict quarantine 
 ought to be introduced, and every thing not left to blind chance. 
 I could adduce many instances of the unhappy consequences of 
 their absurd notions in this respect. At Cairo, an Arab, attempt- 
 ing to save a fowl which had fallen into the river, swam too fai' 
 from the shore and was carried away by the current. He might 
 easily have been saved by throwing him a rope or an oar ; but 
 nothing was done; the Mahometans, of whom great numbers 
 were on the banks and in the vessels, assured me he had been pre- 
 destined from his birth to ])erish in this manner. At Alexandria 
 they believe that the plague is brought thither by pilgrims from 
 Barbary and afterwards from that city to Rosetta and Cairo. It 
 generally appears in Alexandria in the month of December and 
 continues, but generally with interrujjtions, till June. At Cairo it 
 usually commences in March. This periodical recurrence seems 
 to prove the influence of the chamise, which blows with the 
 greatest violence about this time. Some years ago the Pacha 
 wished to introduce a quarantine, but he was induced to renoimce 
 liis intention, partly by his own connnercial interest, and partly 
 by remonstrances which were sent him from Constantinople. 
 
 Description of the Countr?/ bcfzcecn Ahwandria aud Cairo. 
 
 Ten minutes walk from the exterior south gate of Alexandria 
 is the canal, on which labourers are still em])l()ved by connnand 
 of the l*aclia, juid corn maga/ines building at the extreme entl of 
 it. Here is the place Avhere all goods to and from Cairo are 
 loaded and unloaded, and aUo the custom-house, '^fhe Arabs are 
 here employed the whole day in loading and unloading the ships 
 and camels. All the trade between Alexandria anil Cairo is car- 
 
in Egypt and Lybia, i?i 1821. 43 
 
 ried on by this canal, and its importance is greatly enhanced by 
 the increasing danger and difficulty of the navigation at the mouth 
 of the Nile at Rosetta. It is about ten paces broad and twelve 
 leagues long. The southern dam separates it, for the extent of 
 four leagues, from Lake Mareotis, and thence from the fertile plain 
 on which Damanhour lies ; the northern dam divides it from the 
 low plain which bounds the sea, and afterwards Lake Madie. In 
 the vicinity of Alexandria there are only huts of the Bedouin? on 
 this neck of land, but five leagues distant are considerable vil- 
 lages, such as Elouak and Birket; thither the people of Alexan- 
 dria often go to shoot quails and pigeons. There are but few 
 plants on the two banks ; but the nearer you approach to Fum el 
 Machmudie, the more interesting does the country become, and 
 in sailing up the Nile the prospect is beyond conception striking 
 and delightful. Towns rapidly succeeding each other, the richest 
 vegetation, groves of palms mingled with corn fields and gardens, 
 where the wonderful productive power of nature makes up for 
 the deficiency of human hands; where earth and water swarm with 
 animal life, and the sky is frequently darkened by the immense 
 flocks of pigeons. The navigation in the canals is less agreeable. 
 Every moment you see the wheels that raise the water into the 
 ditches ; every where the painful labour of man is visible, and the 
 less flourishing vegetation and smaller number of towns, render 
 the scene more uniform. One of the most interesting parts, is 
 that where the Nile divides into the two principal branches. Its 
 course is there more rapid, its banks further from each other, and 
 more diversified, and the pyramids are already visible at a distance. 
 The Fellahs in the Delta are good tempered, but most zealous 
 Mahometans. A Neapolitan lately beat one of them severely, be- 
 cause he and some others had been called by an opprobrious name, 
 and thrown stones at some European ladies, whose necks and 
 faces were uncovered. The others were immediately going to 
 murder him, but on his giying money to him that he had beaten, 
 and embracing him, all was made up. Crocodiles are very rarely 
 seen in the Delta, it is only in years when the Nile is very high 
 that one is sometimes seen at Raschid, at which place one of ex- 
 traordinary size was observed three years ago. 
 
 Cairo, and the Christians in Egypt. 
 
 The entrance into the capital of Egypt, resembles that into an 
 European city in which there is a much frequented fair. There 
 is a constant throng of people going to and from the adjacent 
 country ; the streets are always crowded, and the Bazars, filled 
 with goods of every description, present a very animated and in- 
 teresting scene. Every moment you have to step aside to avoid 
 
44 Scholzs Travels 
 
 being galloped over by the horses or asses, or to force your way I 
 through a dense mass of people. 
 
 As soon as your cli'ects are landed and inspected by the custom- 
 house officers, a crowd of Arabs fight to get possession of them ; 
 each endeavours to load them on his ass, and you are happv to 
 get out of the tlirong and agree with llicm at some distance, on 
 tile best terms you can. 
 
 The population of Cairo is composed of very different parts ; 
 Arabs, Turks, Mamelukes, Berbers, Negroes, Jews, Copts, Greeks, 
 Armenians, and Franks, are mingled together, and the tempo- 
 rary residence of the Bedouins and stran^-ers from the interior of 
 Asia and Africa, contribute to diversify the scene. The number 
 of the Franks is small in comparison with the others, and it is 
 only within these few years that they have become so numerous 
 as they now are. There are about fifteen hundred in Cairo, 
 mostly Italian merchants and manufacturers. Most of them 
 have lost their credit by luifortunate speculations, and their bu- 
 siness by the tyranny of the pacha. They live in the quarter 
 called l)schamea, enjoy unboimded liberty, and are more es- 
 teemed than in any other province of the Turkish empire. There 
 are two Latin convents, each with an ill built and small church : 
 the largest, IJi TcTra Santa, under the protection of the French, 
 as well as those of Alexandria ; and Ilosetta is under the superior 
 at Jerusalem, in union with those in Palestine, Syria, and Cyprus. 
 The smaller one, of the propaganda, under Austrian protection, 
 is immediately connected with the propaganda at Rome, as well 
 as the convents of Achmin, Tachta, &c. in Upper Egypt. At 
 (Jairo there are two priests in each, in the others only one ; and 
 at Uosetta and Damietta, for want of Franciscans, their place is 
 supplied by Maronites. In the church of the larger convent, the 
 Maronites and catholic Syrians also celebrate divine worship, 
 and in that of the smaller, the catholic Greeks, Armenians, 
 and Copts. Eacli of these communities has a vicar-gcneral, and 
 the first has a bishop on Mount Lebanon. Some years ago, the 
 Copts, at the intercession of the pious, wealthy, and very much 
 esteemed Moallem Galli, minister of the pacha, endeavoured to 
 have the worthy vicar-general, Matthias Uaschit, consecrated 
 bishop, and had ])aid large sums to obtain ])ermission. But the 
 malicious schismatics found means, by j)aving still larger sums 
 to the pacha^ to assert, as the ])red()minant church, the right which 
 had been insured to them for some centuries by the sultan, not 
 to permit any catholic bishop, and when the j)ious old man was 
 j;()ing to embark at Damietta to get himself consecrated on Mount 
 Lebanon, they caused him to be so cruelly beaten, tliat lie wa« % 
 ill Cor sevend months, became averse to society, and lost many of 
 )»is ;i(liuiral)le (jualilies. Moallem Galli, m ho was mmv ill-treate(i 
 
in Egypt and Lybia^ in 1821. 45 
 
 on this occasion, has since recovered the pacha's favour ; and when 
 the bishop of Babylon, Pietro Couperi, on his way to Bagdad, 
 visited Cairo, there wanted nothing but a worthy priest approved 
 by Rome, for the pacha had now given his permission, out of re- 
 spect for the presence of the French consul. 
 
 This community is the most numerous among the oriental ca- 
 tholics, though it was always the most persecuted by the schis- 
 matic Copts. Commercial interest and persecution in Syria have 
 brought the others hither. The Armenians are merchants, and 
 were never numerous. The Greeks in Cairo are about three 
 thousand, Alexandria one hundred, Damietta and Bosetta eighty. 
 The patriarch of Alexandria has his residence in a convent in the 
 Greek street. I frequently saw the intelligent patriarch Theo- 
 phiius, at Patmos, where he had lived in retirement for these 
 three years. 
 
 Their largest and handsomest church is that of St. Nicholas. 
 That of St. Catherine, in the convent of the monks of Mount 
 Sinai, is small but rich, as well as the convent. The convent of 
 St. George in Old Cairo, is remarkable as being erected upon a 
 large handsome ancient l3uilding. The language of the church 
 is the Greek, though many are unacquainted with it. 
 
 The orighial inhabitants of Egypt, the Copts, have been reduced 
 by the cruel oppression of the several rulers of the country, and 
 bv the plague, to twenty thousand men, or eighty thousand souls 
 in all ; and their churches to one hundred, twenty-three of which, 
 with six convents, are at Cairo. They dwell together in a quarter 
 of Cairo near the patriarch, where there is a handsome new church. 
 They constitute a great part of the population of Old Cairo, where 
 they have several convents which, however, are poor, and inha- 
 bited by a very few persons. 
 
 Their manners and customs have become assimilated to those of 
 .their tyrannical oppressors, with whom they are every where in- 
 termixed. Three villages only, in Upper Egypt, have remained 
 .umnixed. We seek in vain, especially among the inhabitants of 
 Lower and Middle Egypt, for pecuharities in their religious or 
 domestic customs, their proverbs, way of life, and language. 
 For several years past they have even ceased to celebrate their 
 family festivals at New Year, Epiphany, Easter, and in Septem- 
 ber, when they dw^elt in tents at a distance from their houses, in 
 a temporary oblivion of domestic cares ; when the heads of families 
 treated their relations with the best that their stores could afford, 
 made presents of sweetmeats to the children, especially at Epi- 
 phany, and indidged in harmless pleasures. Poverty lias de- 
 prived them of the means, and tyranny of courage. Only they 
 still celebrate, in social circles, the eighth dny after a christening, 
 /uid the marriage, to which the bride never brings any dowry. 
 
46 Sdiolzs Travels 
 
 They are remarkable for tlieir good temper, aiul for a laudable 
 complaisance in the ordinary intercourse of life. Their mode of 
 salutation is very formal and long, always pressing the hand on 
 the breast, then laying it on the hand of the other, and lastly on 
 the head. Perhaps it would be dlfHcult to find a Christian sect 
 which is so degraded, or in which the moral dignity of man is so 
 much effaced. To form an idea of it, we need but go into the 
 churches, and see how the bishops, and still more, the priests, 
 with the !sticl< in their hands, strike the believers who press around 
 like a flock of sheep, and who know of no duties at church but 
 that of mechanically imitating some motion made bv the priest. 
 
 According to the imanimous assurance of the Coptic patriarchs, 
 and of many monks from Upper Egypt, they have, in their con- 
 vents, none but new MSS. for the use of the churches, which 
 they read fluentlv, but do not understand without the help of the 
 Arabic translation opposite. Very few monks in Upper Egypt 
 understand Coptic well, and the patriarch said he had known but 
 one who spoke it. I do not believe that there are any ancient MSS. 
 in the convents, or that the inscriptions in their churches are at 
 all interesting, either to history or paleography. Tliese latter 
 are all new, or repaired, and contain nothing but doxologics in the 
 Coptic language, sentences from scripture, and the names of the 
 saints, who also are badly painted over them in the oriental style. 
 Their patriarch Abga Petrus, shewed me, as the oldest and most 
 valuable article in his little library, a Lectionarium, with the Arabic 
 translation opposite, of the year 1161. 
 
 The Coptic literature has certainly to expect the most import- 
 ant acquisitions from the excavations, and from the collections 
 already made, in particidar that of the celebrated and excellent 
 ]VI. Drovetti, who possesses, among others, eight partlv decayed 
 MSS. containing the liiblc in the Saitic dialect, and the Wisdom 
 of Solomon in the iVlcmphitic dialect, which are probably older 
 than any in Europe. He has likewise a line collection of histori- 
 cal inscriptions. It is only to be lamented that he who is at the 
 exj)ence of making excavations in Egypt, is disapjiointed by in- 
 trigues of the fruit of his researches. The Arabs are bribed, 
 and generally carry off the most ^ aluable of the articles that are 
 found. 
 
 The Jcivs ill yifrica, iltc Slaves^ and the Gipsies. 
 
 The Jews are as much strangers here as in other coimtries, 
 where they ebb and flow accoriling as connnercial speculation, 
 or favour shown them, mav dctirmiiie. The latter, however, 
 seems never to have been the case in Egypt. What political 
 catastrophes have destroyed here, was never restored; many \iU 
 
i?i Egypt and Lybia, in 1821. 47 
 
 lages which a few centimes ago belonged to them exclusively, 
 are still desolate, many towiis which formerly prospered through 
 their industry, are now decayed, and the few remams of them in 
 Cairo and Alexandria are poor, or new comers from the land of 
 the Franks. Their ancient prosperity is attested by the ruins of 
 many synagogues, particularly in Lower Egypt, and two of them 
 are still held in great honour by all the Jews, on account of a 
 legend, which affirms that one of them possesses a^'Hebrew copy of 
 the Bible, written by Esdras himself, and the other one that was 
 brought to it a thousand years ago in a supernatural manner, 
 as the chapel of the Virgin at Loretto was borne through the air 
 by angels. That the latter was honoured three hundred years 
 ago, is proved by a signature, by which all persons who shall 
 touch this book are excommunicated. What may be said of the 
 Oriental Jews in general is applicable to those of Egypt. They 
 are in the most degraded state, and their wretched condition has 
 effaced every trace of antiquity. Only the hatred of the Tul- 
 mudists to the Karaites has been inlierited. Of the latter there 
 are said to be two hundred here, one hundred and fifty in Jeru- 
 salem, eighty in Tiberias, two hundred in Damascus, and one 
 thousand five hundred in Constantinople, and who for the same 
 reason offer nothing worthy the attention of the enquirer, except 
 the peculiar formation of their scull. 
 
 An accurate acquaintance with the Jews in Abyssinia, whose 
 existence is confirmed by many authorities, would be important in 
 other respects than the mere gratification of curiosity. An am- 
 bassador sent one hundred and fifty years ago from the Prince of 
 Sana to the Emperor of Abyssinia, also saw them confined to the 
 recesses in the mountains. They lead a wandering life, subsist by 
 breeding cattle, have the Sabbath, circumcision eight days after 
 the birth, and no religious book but the Pentateuch. According 
 to the accounts given by the leaders of caravans, the Jews in the 
 interior of Africa equally incline to Theism, and their Cohens 
 are said to be as unacquainted with the Hebrew, as the Christian 
 priests in the east are with Greek. Tradition tells of three great 
 Jewish caravans that went to Abyssinia under the reig-n of Kino- 
 Solomon ; the first with the natural son of Solomon and the Queen 
 of Sheba ; of an active commercial intercourse between the two 
 kingdoms; of the conversion of Abyssinia to the Jewish religion ; 
 and of a sanguinary war between the Jews and Christians in the 
 fifth century, in which the former were almost wholly extermi- 
 nated in Abyssinia, only a few having escaped by flight, into the 
 interior of Africa. Now whether they had previously been led 
 by commerce to settle in the interior, or whether this did not take 
 place till their expulson from Abyssinia, their origin is the same, 
 and they only become the more interesting in an historical point 
 
48 S(holz'ii TravfU 
 
 of view. But It is to bo foared tliat tlie contempt in wliich tiiev 
 are there held In- the heathens and Mahoirietans, has reduced them 
 to as deplorable a conchtion as in tlie east in (reneral, or as that of 
 their brethren in Caucasus, in the mountains of 'I'aurus, and even 
 in V^emen, with wliom we are ecpially unac(juainted, is represented. 
 A considerable number of men in the east still labour under 
 the curse of bein<^ treated and sold like l)rute beasts. Most of 
 them are exporteclfrom I\<rypt to all ]>arts of tlie Turkish em- 
 pire, being annually l)r()uoiit by a great caravan from Sennar 
 and Darfour, and now that travelling is so secure, in several 
 small caravans to tlie number of five or seven tliousand every 
 year. The princes of those countries make war on tlie neighbour- 
 ing tribes, and the result generally is the taking of several thousand 
 priscmers. Part of them are em})loyed to cultivate the land and 
 tend the camels in the country itself; tlie others are sold or bar- 
 tered as slaves to the caravans, like ivory, gum, ostrich feathers, 
 rhinoceros liorns, alum, &c. ; the number of tlie prisoners is in- 
 creased by those sold by their barbarian ])arents. On the journey 
 these poor wretches are most dreadfully ill-lreated, and as soon as 
 they arrive at Cairo exposed to sale in the slave market, where 
 from eighty to two hundred dollars are paid for them, according 
 to their ability, age, strength and beauty. I observed that the 
 women, wlio generally make above three-fourths of the number, 
 endeavour to heighten their attractions, chiefly by braiding their 
 hair in a very beautiful manner. They are employed as domestic 
 servants, but it is difficult to teach tliem. Their lot is generally 
 more tolerable under Turkish masters than under Franks, but 
 very different from what it is in America. Tliey are considered 
 as servants of the house, and frequently when they conduct them- 
 selves well and give proofs of ability, as members and friends of 
 the family. Among the Franks the possession of them is gene- 
 rally attended with loss, as they have more liberty, the females 
 soon become pregnant, and the males good for nothing and 
 thievish. They are likewise more susceptible of the plague than 
 other persons, as is confirmed by many observations, and of 
 seventy thousand persons who have been carried off by the })Iague, 
 within a few years, fourteen thousand were slaves. It is dillicult, 
 and generally im])ossible, to obtain any information from them 
 resjK'Cting their native country and langunge, as they have ge- 
 nerally been brought away when very young, and have no recol- 
 lection of it. .Vs Volney and others have given very goo<l ac- 
 counts of the Mahometan tribes, I conclude this chaptei* with a 
 remark u])on the Gy])sies. '^J'hey are here called Tatar oi* Aghar. 
 Their customs are the same as those whieh distiniiulsh them 
 among us. They bury tlu'ir dead ])rivately. Here too they 
 employ themselves in fortune-telling, pro})]urying, rope-dancing, 
 
in Egypt and Lyhia, in 1821. 49 
 
 tumblino', &c. They are supposed to hQ Theists, and to have 
 come originally from the interior of Asia. 
 
 Abyssinia. 
 
 Cairo and Jerusalem are frequented by people from various 
 parts of Asia and Africa, from whom I have collected much in- 
 formation. Some particulars are omitted here, because they 
 have been more perfectly related by preceding travellers. With 
 respect to Abyssinia, which was always the favourite object of 
 my plan, I heard many accounts both true and false. There 
 is nothing more to be regretted than the premature death of the 
 companion of the English consul-general, Mr. Salt, in his travels 
 in Abyssinia.* He resided there eight years, and the situation 
 in wliich he was placed gives us reason to suppose that his 
 knowledge of the country must have been very extensive. There 
 can be no doubt that the journey to Abyssinia from Egypt by 
 land, is extremely fatiguing and difficult, and people al^^•ays 
 prefer going by sea, I got acquainted with some persons from 
 Axum, who assured me that no Mahometan state had main- 
 tained itself there, and that the followers of Mahomet are very 
 few, and even these live and dress like Christians. Shoa, Machedo 
 and Noari are Christian states. The latter is five days journey 
 from the Nile, and the inhabitants speak the Malhas language. 
 There are many other Christian states, and I have a list of above 
 thirty dialects, the people speaking which are all Christians. 
 
 The Libraries at Cairo, The Schools and Charitable Institu- 
 tions. The Legacies to the Mosques. The Prayer of the two 
 Be i ram. 
 
 The library of INIahomet Ali Pacha, the present governor, will 
 probably soon occupy a distinguished rank among those es- 
 tablishments at Cairo. To the fine collection of iVrabic MSS. 
 he exerts himself to add a nimiber of Arabic translations of 
 French and Italian works on mathematics and natural philosophy, 
 and has some chosen IVIamelukes educated in the European 
 manner. The library of M. Asselin, a learned Frenchman living 
 in Cairo, contains many rare MSS. But neither the two Latin 
 nor the two Greek convent libraries (those of the Patriarch and of 
 Mount Sinai,) contain any MSS. interesting in a literary view, be- 
 cause they have been always the most exposed to pillage. The 
 most interesting acquisitions in Arabic literature might be made 
 
 • Mr. Pearce. 
 V^oYAC.Es and Travels, No. XL VI. Vol. VIII. h 
 
50 Sc/eolz.^ Travels 
 
 ill llic libraries of s:)nie of llic Slieiks. Their treasures, and the 
 faeililv \vitli wliicli eopies may be prociireci, will always make 
 Cairo ini])ortant to the lovers of Arabic literature. Tlie Dnrel- 
 bekiiiet, now e;tlKtl Dschaniea ICla/liar, with a consideral^le 
 library, wliich, according- to Maerizi, was founded in the year31'5, 
 on the second Dschauniadi, is oni' of the «i;reatest establislnncnts 
 for education in the Ottoman empire. It is a very large build- 
 ing, with several piazzas, in wliich the pu])ils, to the number of 
 two thousand, sittin.g in above one hundred aiul fifty different 
 divisions, receive instruction in reading, w riting, grannnar, the 
 koran and the law. Not only the library, but even the school is 
 inaccessible to Christians. I was twice threatened with the 
 penalty of death for my ciu'iosity by the Shieks, some of whom 
 are very well informed and solved many of my doubts. They 
 gave me the following information respecting legacies to the 
 mosques. If a rich man dies, either witli or without heirs, and 
 lias bequeathed any thing to a mosque for re])airs, light, carpets, 
 or other expences, lie leaves the money to the care of some re- 
 sjKctable person, a Sheik, Iman, or rich merchant, who secures 
 it by laying it out in the })urchase of houses, lands, &:c. Tlie 
 present Pacha lias deprived many mosques, that had been en- 
 riched by such legacies, of the greater part of their property, yet 
 there are still in (airo many that are very well endowed. They 
 assured me that tliere never was any difference of opinion res} meeting 
 the place where the prayer of the two Beirams shall be ])erfornied. 
 It is only at Mecca that it must lie ])erfornied in the open air on 
 the Dschebel Arajiliat, otherwise always in the mosque. 1 here 
 is a board, consislinjr of twelve iihysicians, which is consulted on 
 diflicult cases. In the mad-house I saw fifteen poor wretches in 
 chains, each confined to a narrow chamljcr. Tliey appeared to 
 lie so neolected, that they must become mad in such an abode 
 if they were not so ah'cady. The hospital connected with it is in 
 a similar state. The orientals have no idea of a judicious ma- 
 nagement and regulation (»f jihilanthropical establishments ; the 
 patient is almost entirely left to himself. 
 
 So much hii.s already been said of the })rincipal mos(]ues, the 
 llall of Saladin, built in a beautiful Saracenic style, on Memphis, 
 the })yramiils and anti(iuities of Egypt, that I pass over this 
 subject, and reserve my remarks for another suitable opportunit\ . 
 
 77/ r Con )}()•// hct'icccn Cairo and Garsa. 
 
 'i he most convi'uient mode of travi'lling from Cairo to Gaza is 
 by waler, j>()inir down the Nile from Cairo to Damietta, and 
 thence to Jafla. lint as the opportunHies ot gomg by sea from 
 Damietia lo. Jaffa ai-e rare, people generally pn-fer going by land, 
 eithi-r by \\:i\ of belbcv^ ;nul \]\ Arish. «»• b\ wa\ of Suez. \\> 
 
tn Egypt cuid Lybia, in 1821. 61 
 
 chose the more interesting route by Belbeys, Arisii, and Gaza. 
 JIalf a league from Cairo is ]\Iatarieh, wliere the celebrated syca- 
 more stands, upon the spot in whicli tlie Holy Family is said to 
 have reposed ; and in the neigld^/ourhood is tlie scite of the ancient 
 Heliopolis, where there is an obelisk and several sarcophagi. We 
 remarked here tlie contrast between the most fertile plains in the 
 world and tlie desert. On the left are the finest clover and corn 
 iields, groves of palms, and tlie most luxuriant vegetation ; on the 
 right nothing but chains of naked limestone hills, which run into 
 innumerable branches. Halke, four leagues from Cairo, is a 
 pretty large village, and between that and Belbeys are several 
 others, in a very picturesque country. The road from Helbeys 
 to Karein (Coraem ?) runs almost constantly between gardens, 
 and the villages stand very close together. The country is less 
 populous four leagues beyond Karein, between Chatara and 
 Salehhieh, where fertile spots and even groves of palms, which, 
 however, liave a connexion v.ith the plain, which is annually 
 watered by the canals from the Nile, alternate with sterile deserts, 
 bounded at a distance by a chain of naked mountains. 'I'he 
 country beyond Salehhieli is only occasio!:!a]ly visited by Be- 
 douins. Two leagues farther is the valley of Kantara, with a salt 
 soil, formed by two chains of hills, that sometimes run parallel, 
 and in which there are some salt ponds and a well of good water. 
 After leaving this valley, which is eight leagues in length, the soil 
 is sandy, and almost entirely barren. Near Catieh there are many 
 
 E aim trees, and the ruins of a village, which llie Ai'abs affirm to 
 ave belonged to tlie Jews. El Arish lies in a very fruitful coun- 
 try, and beyond it are the frontiers of Egvpt and Syria. For 
 the space of two leagues you see on all sides an uneven country, 
 full of herds of cattle grazing, and here and there fine corn fields, 
 in an extensive plain. After proceeding some leagues further vou 
 * perceive the ruins of the to^vn of Bafah, and a very large and 
 deep cistern of the same name. '^I'he country becomes moun- 
 tainous, and at tlie foot of the mountains is Chanus, (Khan 
 Jouncss) the ancient Jenysus, the first village in Syria. The 
 country from ArisJi to Gaza is low and almast le^'el, to the dis- 
 tance of four leac^ues from the sea. At a short distance there is a 
 slope, the country becomes mountainous and more barren, and 
 you are soon in a desert. We saw no quadrupeds except boars, 
 hares, and jackalls, which the inhabitants say are very numerous. 
 The soil is very fertile in this tract, but, especially betvveen Arish 
 and Gaza, only to the distance of six or eight leagues from the 
 sea, where the desert beo-ins. 
 
52 ,Sf/iuh's TrnvclM 
 
 Remains of the Ancient Inhabitants. — The Present Inhabitants. 
 
 This wliolc tract has little that interests the anticjuarian. Al- 
 most every trace of the ancient inhabitants has l)een effaced by 
 their barbarous successors. In the middle of the villa<je, at 
 Karein, there is a large isolated ])Iock of granite, with ancient 
 Egyptian figures. The present state of the ruins near i^ir 
 Catieh does not enable me to judge whether they are ancient ; 
 but it is probable that the town of Clieres was near that place. 
 
 Of lihinocorura, now Arish, not a trace remains. A league 
 beyond Arisli, and a league from the sea, upon an eminence, there 
 was formerly, it is said, a great Arab village, called Matal, of 
 which nothing remains but the ruins of an aqueduct. At Vadi 
 llafah, twelve leagues beyond Arish, there are to the left of the 
 road two lofty columns of l)lack granite still standing, and three 
 hundred ])aces from them a large and deep cistern, which is re- 
 paired with jiillars of marble and granite. These are the poor 
 remains of that once handsome Christian city, whose former 
 splendour is still recorded in the memory of the Arabs. In the 
 same manner the barbarians have destroyed the remaining anti- 
 quities in Khan Jouness, and especially those in Dir Belach, 
 which were very considerable. A league before you reach Gaza 
 are the remains of a bridge, which was built very stronn; and 
 high, and was probably a work of the Romans. It is over the 
 Dschiser Gaza, which comes from the mountains, and falls into 
 the sea about a league off, but is generally without water. 
 
 The present inhabitants of the desert tract from Cantara to 
 Arish are Bedouins, who are tributary to the Pacha of Egypt, 
 and differ but little from those of the INIareotic territory : they 
 are very few in number, and I saw in the whole district only one 
 camp, which was at Vadi Cantara. Arish has three hundred in- 
 habitants, and Khan Jouness above a thousand. Both are foi'- 
 tiHed as a protection to the frontiers, and the first is celebrated on 
 account of the battle fought near it durino- the French invasit)n. 
 They prosper by the trade whieh they carry on between Egv])t 
 and Syria : the mhabitants are remarkably rich in camels; and 
 both demand of the Christians and Jews who ]xass l)y, the tribute 
 called Ghai'ar, wjiich the AFahometan thinks himself authorized 
 to demand of the infich-ls, especially at certain places. 
 
 The fruitful and cultivated tract between Arish and Khan 
 Jouness is inhabited only by Bedouins, who seem, however, to bo 
 more pros])erous, and to aj)pr();Kh to the villagi' life. Many se- 
 pulchres are seen in this district, which are as solidly built as those 
 of the inha])ltants of tlu' towns. 'I'hough the inha])itants of Khan 
 Joune>s air nnicli addicted lo I'obbery, those of Dirbelach :\H} 
 
in Egypt and Lyhia^ in 1821. 513 
 
 said to be very well disposed. They receive both Christians and 
 Mahometans very hospitably, and f^ive them at least some of their 
 dates, of which they gather annually a large quantity, which is 
 exported to Syria. Hence many caravans now proceed along the 
 sea-coast, and this route is now more frequented than that through 
 Khan Joimcss. 
 
 The religion, both of tlie Bedouins and the inhabitants of tlie 
 villages, is the Maliometan. Each village and eacli camp has at 
 its head a Sheik, who conducts it, directed by the advice of the 
 elders. 
 
 From Arisli to Gaza the inhabitants are tributary to the Pacha 
 of Acre, or to his IMotsallem at Gaza, and those of Egypt, as far 
 as Arish, to Mahomet Ali. Since the campaign to Mecca against 
 the Wechabites.. a part of tlie Bedouins on the east coast of the 
 Red Sea, and in Arabia, arc likewise tributary, and the bold 
 hordes of banditti are succeeded by poor weak Bedouins. 
 
 Remarks on the Natural Peculiarities of Palestine and a Part 
 
 of Syria. 
 
 The chain of mountains which traverses all Syria extends also 
 in various branches and ramifications to Palestine. They enclose 
 many deep valleys in all directions, and have the most diversified 
 forms, directions and elevations. In Judea most of them are 
 conical ; in Samaria flat and ekmgated ; there steep or oblique, 
 lofty or low ; here covered with earth, there entirely bare. Great 
 and little Hermon and Tabor are here the highest. Mount Nuns, 
 one league south of Little Hermon, is not so regularly formed as 
 that mountain. In Galilee the valleys are broad and long, 
 branch out in the same manner into manifold ramifications and 
 are very fertile. Petrifactions of plants, olives, and other fruits 
 are found in Kesrouan and on Carmel in a space of half a square 
 league extent, called the Garden of the Mother of God, but the 
 quantity is diminished since they have been so much sought after. 
 Near the grave of Rachel of Bethlehem, great numbers of small 
 stones are found, which in size and a})pearance exactly resemble 
 peas, and the place is hence called Dscherumel homes, the pea-field. 
 The popular belief attaches great miracles to both these places, by 
 which the holy family, to punish the avaricious inhabitants, trans- 
 formed all the fruits in their gardens and fields into such stones. 
 
 On the dead sea, particularly on the soutli-west shore, asphal- 
 turn is found, which when rubbed emits a sulphureous smell, burns 
 like pitch, and is manufactured by the inhabitants of Jerusalem 
 into crosses, rosaries, &c. 
 
 The inhabitants have no idea of mines of metal, th.ough. it is 
 not improb;ii>le tlicre mav be some in SamnriM nnd Galilee, Iron 
 
54 iSrhu/z's Travels 
 
 is abuntlaiit in Antilibaiuis and Kesroiian. On llic sca-sliorc there 
 aiv many (greenish stones that look like glass, covered with a rind, 
 or ^rown tofrctlKr witii limestone, and extremely solid. I saw a 
 great (juantitv of them near tlie ruins of /ij)()ll()nia ; jxrhaps 
 they gave occasion to the invention of glass. Palestine is very 
 rich in salt})etre; I found the sides of the caves of Gethsemane 
 and other places covered with it. 
 
 In the valley of the Jordan, and al)oiit tlie Dead Sea, there are 
 still traces of volcanos. In tlie mountains near the Dead Sea we 
 .saw many yellow stones which contain sulphur, ashes also, at a 
 very considerable distance, and pumice stone in the Dscheser 
 (river) Ascalon. Half a league to the south of Tiberias and 
 llanmii there are sulphureous sj)rings. Near Tiberias water 
 issues from the grountl in four places, about iive paces from each 
 other: the water is so hot that one cannot bear to hold a finger in 
 it more than a few scccmds. Those of liannni, three leagues 
 more to the south, are not so v.arm^ but they are more visited by 
 rlieumatic ])atients. 
 
 The soil is of very different (jualities, but never so rich as with 
 us ; that of the mountains is rough and stony, that of the plains 
 light and very fertile. In Juda^'i it is stony and not so warm as 
 in other parts, and every thing is therefore less forward ; but it is 
 astonishing to see when the weather is favourable, how trees, 
 shrubs and plants flourish in the seemingly poor soil, and even 
 in tlie clefts of the rocks, 'i hey never think of improving the 
 ground by manure, and dung is used by them for fuel. 
 
 Palestme, like all mountainous countries, abounds in water. 
 The Lake of Tiberias, the Jordan, and other rivers, derive their 
 waters from Lebanon. The other small rivers (Dscheser) are 
 filled in rainy weather from the mountains, or from s})rings, tiie 
 comparatively small num])er of which, made cisterns necessary 
 even m the remotest a.o'es. The most interesiin«>; of all the waters 
 is the Dead Sea, called by the inhabitants ]5aher Lllut. I'.ven 
 in the most ancient times it attracted the attention of the ob- 
 server, and so many fables were related of il, that it was dilllcult 
 to dislinguish the truth from fiction. It is eleven miles long and 
 five ])r()a(l.* Around it are bare mountains, which when sur- 
 veyed from the eminences ])resent a frightful prospect. Those 
 on the e."f.t are steeper and Jiigher, tliose on t!;e west more mi- 
 merous and gloojuv. To the north is the plain, foui* leagues in 
 bnadth, which is traversed bv the Jordan. On the banks is an 
 ash-griy salt, adhesive slime, sand mixed w ilh salt and nitre, or 
 stoni's which are covered with a white salt crust. T'he same is 
 
 • 'I'lir avillior mcHnr, we mijjjhjsc, (nim m mile:, »(j«i;il lo l<>iu and a lu'lf 
 
 r,iij;li^li. 
 
in Eyjipt and Lh'bia, in 1821. 55 
 
 the case with the great heaps of stones, wliere hiiie, flint and 
 bitumen He one upon the other and hard by a large spot with 
 plants growing on it, particularly the Salsola and Salicornia. Many 
 trunks and branches of trees, which the Jordan has carried into 
 the sea, and which have been cast up by its waves, are found to be 
 corroded through and through, and partly converted into a black 
 mass. Shells, snails, shrubs and other objects have been carried 
 into the sea by the Jordan. Their distance from the water, 
 which is as much as thirty paces, shews how violent the south-east 
 winds are which agitate this sea. Various animals, chiefly locusts 
 and birds, have })erished in the sea, and likewise cover the shores. 
 The inhabitants have collected heaps of salt on the salt plains 
 about the sea. The water has such a salt and pungent taste, 
 that drinking it takes away the breath and occasions sickness at 
 the stomach. While I strolled along the shore, the south-east 
 wind blew very strong, and I felt several times as if I were on 
 the point of suffocation. I thought of the little animals that stray , 
 hither and go blindly to meet their death, flying forward till 
 they become faint and dizzy and fall in. The lev/ insects creep- 
 ing on the shore were likewise so faint that it was evident they 
 liad not long to live : but large birds flevN' boldly round and over 
 it. On the east shore there are bituminous and su]})hureous 
 springs, which are called by the inhabitants the baths of Moses, 
 David and Solomon. When we consider all these phenomena, we 
 cannot but acknowledge that this sea and the environs have many 
 peculiarities which are simply and satisfactorily illustrated by the 
 narrative of tlie sacred historian. In the midst of these bare lime- 
 stone rocks there was an Oasis, with a salt soil and salt springs like 
 Siwa, but far su})erior in fertility and salubrity on account of the 
 fine water of the Jordan. There v/as a volcano, the subterraneous 
 hollows of which undermined the Oasis. Bituminous and sul- 
 phureous springs issued from the south-east side of the Oasis, 
 streams of lava from the western side, till the anger of God fell on 
 this country ; a tempest set fire to the subterraneous combustible 
 substances, the surface sunk in, and the fruitful tract was 
 changed into a lake, which is impregnated with all the above- 
 mentioned substances, especially salt. The Jordan is about ten 
 paces broad, flows very rapidly, and has its banks quite covered 
 with trees. At the place where the pilgrims bathed it forms an 
 island. There are many rivulets which have no water except in 
 the V. inter, when they are at times so deep, that hardly a year 
 passes without some persons being drowned in them. 
 
 Near most of the towns and villages there are s})rin^s, whicli 
 being in the valleys, while the villages are on the hills, it is a chief 
 occupation of the v/omen to fetch the water into the village. Near 
 the sea the water in the springs is often brackish. At Jaffa it 
 
!}t Scholz'it Travels 
 
 contains much nitre, and they are oblii>;ecl either to hrln^ better 
 water from a distance by means of acjiieducts, as at Acre, Sur, and 
 Saida, or to collect the rain water in cisterns. 
 
 St. Marv's well in the valley of Jehosaphat (perliaps formerly 
 called the sj)nng of Siloah) is remarkable for having, at certain 
 times, harcflv any water in it, and soon after a large quantity. 
 People bathe in it, because it is said to have a healing virtue, es- 
 pecially for the eyes. Above twenty steps lead down to it, and a 
 subterraneous clianncl leads it into the pond of Siloah. Several 
 flights of steps, above ten feet dee]), lead down into tliis also. 
 It is twenty feet broad, and twenty-five feet long. 
 
 Not far from it is the well of Nehemiah (now called Bir Ajub) 
 which is above one liundred and thirty feet deep. It was j)ro- 
 bably imagined that by digging so deep they would reach a spring, 
 but this has proved to be a mistake. A greater cjuantity of water 
 is thus collected, but that does not hinder its being nearly ex- 
 hausted when the season is very dry, though it sometimes over- 
 flows in very rainy winters. 
 
 What Volney says of two principal climates in Syria, is less ap- 
 plicable to Palestine, because the mountains are not so' high. 
 Yet the vicinity of Lebanon has considerable influence, and if the 
 tem])erature of the siunmer is nearly the same on the sea coast antl 
 cm the mountains, tliat of the winter is diflerent. It is colder in 
 the mountains, piercing winds and rain are more frequent, and 
 snow sometimes falls. In 1820 it lay in Galilee only four hours. 
 In 1818, at the end of January, it la}^ for five days, two feet deep; 
 and in 1796 it lay also in Judaea several days, such a depth that it 
 came into the doors of most of the houses. Plail is notimcomnKm 
 in winter. While I was at Nazareth there were several showers of 
 hail, and the stones were as large as ])igeon''s eggs. It is said to 
 have l)een remarked that hail is most fro([uent in those years Mhen 
 it does not snow. The rainy months are from November to 
 March, both inclusive. It seldom rains in October and April, 
 and never in the other months. The rising of the water in the 
 well of Nehemiah, furnishes in Judjea a standard for general 
 meteorological observations. The water rose so as to overflow, in 
 the years 1814, 1815,181 7, 1818, 1819, (three times) 1821, (twice) 
 and in 1815 and 1821 in great abundance. These were wet but 
 fruitful years. In 181() and 1820 it could hardly be perceived 
 that the water in the well h;id risen. The cisterns were exhausted, 
 and famine, drought, and diseases ensued. In heavy rains large 
 masses of clouds are observed, sonu^ floating in the air, some en- 
 vel()])ing the mountains, which, after the rain, or wlien the at- 
 mosphere is only overcast, aj)pear, from the light motion of the 
 clouds, as if they smoked. In geni'ral, no clouds are .seen 
 ihroughout the sinnmer ; they do not appear till October, and 
 
m Egiipi and Lybia. in 1821, 5T 
 
 generally come from the north-west, north, or north-cast. In 
 those months the fog is often very thick in the morning and even- 
 ing, and sometimes the whole day, and the night dews are heavy. 
 TThe air on the mountains is light^ pure, and dry, but in some 
 valleys, for instance near the sea of Tiberias, and on the coast of 
 the Mediterranean, it is damp, and in many places, as for ex- 
 ample, near Ascalon, so unwholesome that the inhabitants were 
 obliged to change their abode. In Antiira also, and other parts 
 of the Kesrouan, it is necessary in the summer months to retire 
 into the mountains to escape the fever. Similar complaints were 
 made at Beirout previously to the planting of the grove of pines, 
 and are still made at Acre, where the exhalations from the neigh- 
 bouring marshes may be the cause, and at Jaffa, where fevers 
 prevail in some months of the year. 
 
 The winds are nearly as periodical in Palestine as in Egypt: 
 In the winter months the north, north west, and north east winds, 
 the harbingers of rain, predominate. In February and March 
 they blew very violently almost every day, the atmosphere was 
 overcast, the air cold and damp, and for twenty years or more 
 there has not been so much rain as this year. The heat of the 
 summer is generally mitigated by the west wind on the moun- 
 tains. 
 
 There are never any tJiunder storms in summer, but frequently 
 in the winter months. On the 5th of March, 1821, there were 
 two near Acre, the wind being NE., on the 27th of February a 
 very violent one, and another equally violent on the 15th of 
 March at Naplous. At the end of January there were two at 
 Jerusalem, and two at the beginning of March at Nazareth. 
 They come from Lebanon with a north east wind, and seldom do 
 any damage. The meteors called falling stars are as frequent here 
 as they are in Egypt. Ali Bey says he saw at Jerusalem a meteor 
 which shot from east to west. An old mail at Nazareth told me 
 that about forty years ago, a flame of fire was seen, which fell 
 from the heavens on the gi*ound, burst and caused great terror. 
 
 Earthquakes are extremely rare in Palestine. About twenty- 
 five years ago, the shock of one was felt at Nazareth, which is 
 said to have been of several seconds duration. 
 
 Palestine is very rich in vegetable productions ; even the rude 
 rocks of Judaea are full of them, and covered in winter with 
 beautiful verdure. Numerous plants that grow wild are used for 
 food. They almost all blossom from February to April. There 
 is no want of ttees. The pomegranate is common : it blossoms 
 in July and the fruit ripens in October. Besides the species with 
 sw^eet fruit, there is another, the fruit of which is sour, but there is 
 no difference in the blossoms or the leaves. The olive blossoms in 
 April, and the crop is gathered in September. The oil is not so 
 
 Voyages and Travels, No. XLVI. Vol. VIIL i 
 
58 Scholz's Travels 
 
 good as it mloht Ix", because they are obliged to gather the f^tii't 
 before it is ri})e to preserve it from the tlncves. The most Con- 
 siderable pahii-grove is near Derbehich ; there are likewise several 
 near Gaza, but in Kama, Acre aiid Jerusalem, they are less fre- 
 cjuent. Tlie principal forests are still in Le])anon, Antilebanon, 
 and in the valley near Halil. It is not merely in the variety of 
 their productions, but also in the luxuriance of their ve^^etation, 
 tliat Syria and Palestine excel most of the provinces of the Otto- 
 man em])ire, though no great laboiu' is bestowed in tlie culture 
 of the soil. 
 
 Cotton, tobacco, beans and lentils are sown in jVfarch, after the 
 ground has been well ])roken with a plough or spade. Tlie grains 
 of cotton are first stirred for a time in wet ashes, or in red earth, 
 to promote their raj)id growth. They are sown in rows, the 
 weeds carefully ])ulled up and the earth loosened with a spade. 
 In July the pods are gathered and the hauhn left on the field. 
 AVHiere the soil is moist they sow cotton every year, otherwise 
 only every two or three years. As soon as they have peeled off 
 the husk of the cotton, they sepai'ate it from the seeds by a 
 macliine, in which two cylinders, one made of wofxl, and large, 
 the other of iron, are set in motion, in contrary directions, by 
 means of a wheel. The wool winds through, the .seeds remain 
 behind, and are said to be very good for oxen. I remarked in 
 some })laces, that corn, even when alroAdy in the ear, was used as 
 fodder for horses ; it is said to make them strong and fat. 'J'he 
 vine blossoms in May and the gra})es are ripe in August. They 
 are usually dried, or a kind of decoction made of the must, for 
 only the Christians make wine. 
 
 Of wild animals the most common are the kanzes^gazal, arneh, 
 clian:ncr and AhucUh'isani. The wool of the sheep is coarse, 
 and is manufactured in the towns; it is mixed with cotton and 
 made into carpets or ordinary clothing. Oxen and cows are used 
 in agriculture. Their liides are said not to be stroiiix enouirh for 
 use, nor do the people know the usual manner of preparing them. 
 In tlu' day time, the dogs are out of the towns, and often in the 
 church-yards, and bark furiously at those who pass by. lUit in 
 the night each goes to his own (|uarter of the city, wliich he will 
 not suffer to be contested with him ])y any one. If a strauire do*; 
 comes into it, the neighbours immediately come to Hie help of 
 the one whose dominion has been trespassed on, and w(k» hv to 
 the stranm'r if he does not Inmu'diatelv take iliiiht. The Arabs 
 feed tlu-m, ])ut carefully avoid touching them. In general they 
 resemble our shepherd dogs. In .Ii'richo they are large, lean, 
 and like our grevhounds. Almost all kinds of birds that we ( 
 have in Germany abound in Syria, es])eciallv birds of prey. Am- 
 phibious animals are less mimerous, aiul the report that Tiberias 
 
ill ^^ypt and Lybia, in 1 82 1. 59 
 
 ayd SafFet were once uninhabitable on account of the number of 
 sjiakes is not now confirmed. The inhabitants unanimously 
 affirm that the Jordan, and still more the sea of Tiberias, abound 
 in fish. TJie breeding of bees is carried on here with as great ad- 
 vantage as it is in Egypt. Tliere they make more wax, liere 
 more honey. Very little care is bestowed on them, but they make 
 a great deal of honey, and that of Bethlehem is cele])rated for its 
 whiteness and good flavour. The wax is far from sufficient for 
 the consumption, and the pilgrims from Cartlistan and Anatolia 
 bring large quantities to Jerusalem. If they do not come, a high 
 price must be paid for that of Egypt. The Arabs have no want 
 of fleas and lice, and Acre and Satfet are said to be particularly 
 well stocked with them. Caterpillars are innumerable. In 
 February, March and April, they are seen on the ground in 
 rainy weather, in clumps, under a web. Near Gaza the ticklouse 
 is very common. It ffies into people's faces, eats itself in, and 
 immediately becomes giddy and dies. If it fastens on the foot 
 or any other part of the body, it often lives two days, but still 
 dies after boils have broken out on the body. 
 
 The locusts are a well known plague of Syria and Palestine. 
 They generally come, after a warm winter, from the deserts of 
 Arabia. Two years ago they consumed at Heifa, and last year 
 at Nazareth, not only all the grass, but even the shoots of the 
 trees and the pease and other leguminous vegetables in the bazar. 
 Three years ago they thrice visited Jerusalem in great numbers. 
 This year they arrived so early a^ the 6th of April, two days 
 after a strong south wind. A single one lays one hundred eggs. 
 To attempt their destruction by burning or burying is considered 
 to be of no use. They are therefore left to take their course till 
 they either fly to another place of their own accord, or are 
 whirled away by the east wmd, which is their most dangerous 
 enemy. They are strung upon a thread and dried for food. 
 
 The great fertility of Palestine causes all kinds of provisions to 
 be very cheap. In Samaria the prices are usually rather higher, 
 and in Judaea the highest of all. Here too people comj)lain of 
 high prices and bad times. Several old persons gave me a com- 
 parative statement of the prices, which shewed that they had 
 increased six-fold within fifty years. At Jerusalem this is ascribed 
 to the increased number of the pilgrims. Formerly there came 
 at Easter hardly five hundred, and now above four thousand, 
 hi Fertile as this country always was and ^till is, yet it resembles 
 (in one part) a solitary desert. Whence, the reader may ask, is 
 this phenomenon ? About forty yeai's ago the Pacha of Damas- 
 cus, disguised as a dervise, and accompanied by one of his confi- 
 dants, travelled through the country about Jericho. They were 
 hospitably treated. The ii^liabitiints set all kindt> of provision* 
 
m Sc/iolz's Travels 
 
 before them, and gave them ju'khj of the sufrar-cane in a (li^h. A 
 isino'le stem was suOicient to fill a whole disli with juice. The 
 Tacha infc rred from the fertility of the country that the inhal)!- 
 tants must be rich, and loaded them m ith heavy taxes. He sent 
 .soldiers there every year to levy the tribute which he asked, wlia 
 ill-treated the people and extorted thrice as much as was required. 
 Tlie iiihabitants, weary of this o])pression and ill-usage, almost 
 all fled with their property into tne desert. After a lapse of 
 many year?, the l\icha again visited the country, and was 
 astonislied at finding it so desolate and ])arren. Instead of a 
 single sugar-cane, ten were required to fill half a dish. He re- 
 lieved the country from tribute, but the fugitives did not retin-n, 
 and thus one of the most beautiful parts of Palestine lias become 
 nlraost a desert. This is the history of all the provinces of the 
 Turkish empire, and those which are not yet converted into t^ 
 )vaste, may expect that this will be their fate. 
 
 Ruins in Palest'tne and on the Oxist of Phamida. 
 
 There are few countries so abounding in traces of a former, 
 great population, but few also where they are so uninteresting as 
 in Palestine. The finest buildings are destroyed to the very 
 foundations, and it is only of ordinary houses, that some in- 
 sulated walls remain standing. Most of them are of the times of 
 the llomans, and so insignificant that they would iiot deserve 
 notice, were not their names, though very much disfigured, of 
 importance to ancient geography and liistory. The villages of 
 Kawata, Zaka, Lebhem, marked on Danville's map, have long 
 since wholly disappeared. 
 
 At Gaza there are but few remains. In the town and before 
 it, are ancient vaults : in the burying ground of die jNIaliome- 
 tans there are marble slabs with verv ancient inscriptions. Ii* 
 Azot there are still many old walls ; in Jebna the ruins of a, 
 church, afterwards converted into a mosque, but now forsakei^ 
 jind {lartly destroyed. In the valley westward there is an acjue- 
 duct, cisterns and bridges. 
 
 On the whole sea-coast the ruins of Ascalon and Ctrsarea are the; 
 most considcra])le. Those of Ascalon, in their j)rescnt state, 
 do not carry us back to the times of the llomans. Two yearSj 
 ago Lady Stanhope em})loyed workmen to dig, but tlie only fruit 
 of her great expences, Mas some statues of the times of the 
 Romans, and these she liad broken, to remove a nnjudici' of the 
 inhabitants, who thought that treasures were hidden in them. It 
 is probable that a more satisfactory rebult might be obtaineil by 
 digging in old Cicsarea. Here there are gigantic columns of 
 granite aiul marble, prodigious walls half biuietl, which inspire 
 
in Egypt and Lyhia^ in 1821. 61 
 
 pieiancholy reflections on the vicissitudes of things. In this 
 elevated spot, which is four hundred paces long and as many 
 broad, the Turris Stratonis probably stood, which Herod, ac- 
 cording to Josephus, adorned with a magnificent palace. 
 
 The extraordinary splendour of Caesarea maybe turther inferred 
 from the more considerable remains of New Caesarea. Besides the 
 lofty strong city walls and many buildings, there are columns by 
 hundreds on the sea-shore one above another, or lying close to- 
 gether in the water. In every one of these remains, we see the 
 magnificence of Old Caesarea, the ruins of which furnished the 
 materials. Great quantities of marble blocks and columns have 
 since been carried to Acre and Jaffa to build the fortifications. 
 There are also many remains of walls and of single houses, with- 
 out the abovementioned walls, on the sea^coast to the north. The 
 ruins of a convent at Der Asnid, a league north of Gaza, which 
 lie scattered over a large field, deserve notice. Two leagues south 
 of Jaffa are the ruins of the lofty bridge with two arches, under 
 which the little river Rubin flows. The prodigious size of the 
 stones, and the height of the arches, render it very remarkable 
 and shew it to be of gi'eat antiquity. There are two chapels near it 
 in which the Mahometans perform their prayers. Near Jaffa, on 
 the way to Rama, are the considerable ruins of an ancient mosque 
 called Hedra. 
 
 Three hundred paces to the west of the present town of Rama, 
 are the ruins of a large building now called Dschamea Elabidh, and 
 iformerly the Church of the Forty Martyrs. This building, which 
 is six hundred paces in length and breadth, was erected by the 
 Knights Templars in the times of the crusades. We even stdl see 
 the upper and the subterraneous church with nine pillars and two 
 naves, the subterrq,neous dwellings, magazines and cisterns, the 
 external walls and the cells. 
 
 In later times the Arabs made three mosques in it, as appears 
 from the inscriptions, one on the north and two on the south side 
 of the square edifice, and built in the middle two chapels for San- 
 tons. The upper wall of the lofty minaret, the ascent to which is 
 by a hundred and twenty-five steps, is far inferior in solidity and 
 beauty to the lower part built by the Christians. Some years 
 ago, the Mostalem wished to use these large and handsome stones 
 for building, but he could not get one of them entire, and there- 
 fore desisted from his purpose. It is now two hundred years 
 gince it was ruined. The cistern of St. Helena, probably built 
 by her, is very deep and uncommonly large, being thirty-three 
 feet in length and thirty in breadth, with twenty-four openings, 
 and constructed with great solidity. 
 
 In the Dschamea Kebir, now the largest mosque in the town, 
 the great church of St. John is easily recognized, only the mina- 
 
62 Scholz's Travels 
 
 yet is of Saracen architecture. The subterraneous vauks are aka 
 remarkable wliich are near the convent of the Franks, and always 
 contain much water in the wet season. They were discovered 
 fifteen years ago, but the people were so terrified at their depth 
 and extent, that they innnediately bricked them up again. They 
 are said to be like a labyrinth, and were probably reservoirs for 
 water, ])ut the present inhabitants had no notion of the use for 
 which they were intended. 
 
 Near Haram are the considerable remains of Apollonica. You 
 sec, in the sea, large thick walls, and close to them, handsome 
 stairs, which lead from the lower buildings to the upjK^r ones, 
 situated on the high bank. Of these tliere are still considerable 
 remains, the solidity and constructi(m of which seem to indicate 
 that a castle once stood here. Granite and marble columns are 
 in the sea, and fragments of walls scattered in the adjacent fields. 
 It is probalile, that ])y digging, the ancient walls of the city 
 might be traced. Five hundred paces north of Tantura, on the 
 sea, are the ruins of a considerable castle, which the inhal)itants 
 say was built by the French during the crusades. 
 
 This whole country, as far as Atlid, was formerly full of 
 castles, houses, and cisterns, but most of tlie first are totally de- 
 stroyed, and tlie latter filled up : only a castle, on the ridge of 
 the adjacent chain of mountains, still remains. On Moimt Car- 
 mel arc numerous caves, which may have formerly served as 
 dwellings for hermits. The largest of them, called the School of 
 Elijah, is held in great veneration by the ^lahometans and Jews. 
 Tlie cave, which is eighteen paces long, and ten broad, is guiurded 
 by an Iman. All round there is a bench for the Divan, except 
 on the left side, in the middle of which there is a similar grotto, 
 five paces long, and as many broad, less regularly hewn in the 
 rock. At the back part of the larger division there are lam})s, 
 and some rags, which are called trophies of victory, and are mo>t 
 devoutly touched by the Mahometans who come hither on pil- 
 grimage. Several came in >\hile I was there : they prayed first 
 at the door, then in the middle, lastly near the lamps, and con- 
 cluded their devotion by kissing the flags. The Mahometans 
 and Jews call this the Scliool of Elijah ; that above, in the con- 
 vent, the Sch(K)l of Elisha. The Greek inscri])ti(ms carved in the 
 two side walls are very old, and nierit the attention of those who 
 study Greek paleogra})hy. The contents of all are the same. Each 
 of* those who have carved their names beg to be remembered. 
 They were })robably made in the first centuries, of the Christian 
 era, by persons who visited tlicso holy places out of devotion. 
 
 T'he ruins of the celebrated C'aniK'iite conviiit are on Mount 
 Carnitl. It was rebuilt ninety years ago. The buildings \vere 
 iormcrly more extensive. The ruins which are now seen, among 
 
m Egypt and Lybia^ in 1821. 63 
 
 which are blocks of marble, are said to be as old as the times of 
 St. Helena : that they are older than the Crusades seems cer- 
 tain. During the French invasion the convent was used as an 
 hospital : all the soldiers wounded at the siege of Acre were con- 
 veyed thither, and many perished in the retreat. The convent 
 was plundered, and the church stripped of its roof by the troops 
 of Ghezzar Pacha. A hundred steps to the north-west is a 
 chapel, built about sixty years ago, by the schismatic Greeks. 
 Almost in the middle of the plain of Acre, on a mountain, there 
 is a very ancient building, near which are many substructions. 
 An ancient paved road, probably a work of the Romans, leads 
 nearly to it. About Acre you find several columns of marble 
 and granite ; but in the immediate vicinity of the city, every mo- 
 nument of antiquity has been cleared away in erecting the fortifi- 
 cations. In the city itself there are still many monuments, cliiefly 
 of the time of the crusades. The Phoenicians called it Acca, also 
 Abyron or Accaron ; the Greeks called it Ptolemais, and the 
 Romans, Civitas Acconcnsis. The Knights of St. John, in the 
 Crusades, gave it the name of St. Jean d"'Acre. On the Raas el 
 Mescherfi (Scala Tyriorum), there are vai'ious substructions and 
 reservoirs for water, which seem to be of high antiquity. They 
 are not of the times of the crusades. This was probaby the 
 frontier of the Phoenician territory, and an important point. 
 The Castellum Lamberti is at the foot of Mount Saron, near the 
 village of the same name. A league distant, six hundred 
 paces from the sea, on an eminence, is a great number of columns 
 with doric capitals, some standing, others lying on the ground. 
 These are, imdoubtcdly, remains of the very ancient town of 
 Sida. A league further arc the much more remarkable ruins of 
 Ecdippa. Large and small marble columns, solid foundations, 
 Sec, show that this was a much richer and more important place. 
 From this place we see a broad road made with stones almost to 
 Cape Blanco. As soon as you have got round Cape Blanco, 
 where the road is continually steep and dangerous, you again 
 find remains of a very considerable place, with cisterns. 
 
 The under wall of the Well Raa^elain, called also Solomon'*s 
 Well, is certainly of the remotest ages ; and in the neighbouring 
 village of the same name, there are many walls of great solidity 
 and high antiquity. An aqueduct, which is partly destroyecf, 
 leads from hence to the ancient Sur. That part is best preserved 
 which leads from the Mosque Maschuk nearly to the present 
 town of Sur. The hand of man has not yet been able to efface 
 liere every trace of more enlightened times. The most consi- 
 derable ruin in the city,' is that of a great church of the Byzantine 
 age. We still distinguish the arches, the bold construction, the 
 height ; and near it are some granite columns of prodigious size. 
 
64 iScholz's Travels 
 
 On the way from Siir to Saida, we meet with considerable re- 
 mains of some town, almost every half league, and the nearer we 
 approach the latter place, the more evident traces do we find. 
 of its ancient splendour. Three leagues before Saida, are the 
 ruins of Sarepta, near which is the oratory of Elijah. Five 
 years ago, a sarcophagus was found two leagues from Saida, but 
 the inscription has been since wantonly destroyed. About Saida 
 there are many remains of walls and cohilims, but nothing of 
 importance ; and the ruins in the city itself are uninteresting, and 
 of the rudest ao;es. 
 
 In general, we cannot take a step liere without being remmded 
 of ancient and more prosperous times. Sometimes you meet with 
 cisterns half filled up ; sometimes with fragments of marble 
 columns ; and the cattle graze, or the corn now grows, where 
 cities, villages, and gardens once presented the most gratif^-^ing 
 scenes of animation, industry and opulence. 
 
 Ruiiis in Galilee. 
 
 The ruins of Diocacsarea are very considerable. Many columns 
 of granite, fragments of walls and marble lie scattered about the 
 mountain, and at its foot where Saphuri now stands. In Naza- 
 reth, near the church of the Latm convent, there are ancient 
 columns, capitals, &:c. of a larger size, and in most of the remain- 
 ing houses, substructions of a better age. On Mount Tabor ai'e 
 many ruins chiefly of the times of the crusades. In and about 
 Tiberias, we found ruins and columns which attest the splendour 
 that it received from Herodes Antipas. These remains are par- 
 ticularly important on the east side to the distance of half a league 
 beyond Tiberias. The city, in ancient times, was more to the 
 south, and it is (mly since the crusades that it has stood on its 
 present scite. Kemains of temples and other great building^ 
 may still be traced, but I looked m vain for inscriptions. 
 
 Among the anti([uitles in the city I observed an alto relievo on 
 a stone of blue granite, which may liave l)een placed over the 
 door of a liouse. It is foiu- feet Ions:, <^'ii^ ^iid a lialf liioh anil 
 upwards, the same subject twice over ; a lion biting a lamb in 
 the Iiind leg. The similarity with the Plurnician style made this 
 monument interesting to me, tliough the rudeness of the work- 
 manship is by no means pleasing. 
 
 Where the Jordan issues from the sea of Galilee, there are 
 considerable remains of walls on both banks, which appear to me 
 to l)e t)f the times of the crusades. Not far oil' there are renuiins 
 of abridge of the times of the Jlomans, which are in such a state, 
 that no great expense woukl be necessary to re})air the bridge, 
 by which many travellers would be saved the trouble of wading 
 
in Egypt and Lybia, in 1821. 65 
 
 tl) rough the Jordan, which after heavy rains is attended witli 
 danger, as ocular demonstration has proved to me. In 
 Hamur are the ruins of Codolara, among which those of the 
 Roman amphitheatre are the most remarkable for their extent 
 and good state of preservation. 
 
 Ruins ill Samaria. 
 
 In Dschenin, there are many ruins which appear to l)e chiefly 
 of the times of the Saracens : the most important is a khan, built five 
 or six hundred years ago, and destroyed about fifty years ago. It 
 consisted of four parts, the court yard, the dwellings, the seraglio 
 and the mosque. Part of the walls are still standing, with the 
 great gateway, over which sentences from the koran are carved in 
 alto-relievo in Neski characters, recommending to the rich to take 
 care of the poor. 
 
 Immediately beyond Dschenin, in the narrow valley, the re- 
 mains of a tower are seen on a mountain to the right. Sucli 
 remains are common in Samaria, but there are none in such good 
 preservation as these. The lower walls of most of the houses in 
 Samaria are very ancient. On the w^ay from Naplous to Samaria 
 (Sebaste) there are remains of an aqueduct, and in Sebaste itself 
 many marble columns, most of them lying on the ground, many 
 standing, but without any inscriptions. The ruins of the church 
 of St. John the Baptist, which the Mahometans have partly con- 
 verted into a mosque, are the most considerable. To the west 
 are the ruins of Marta Azor. At Naplous there are in the houses 
 niany pillars of granite and marble, and walls which are the work 
 of more prosperous times : near it is Jacob's well and many ruins. 
 In Sendschel there are manv ruins of the most ancient times, and 
 a great many old towers. At Elbir, the ancient Machmas, there 
 are many old walls, among w^hich we distinguish those of a large 
 church built by St Helena, on the spot where the parents of 
 Christ discovered that their son had remained behind at Jerusalem. 
 At Kai'iataneb (St. Jeremia), are the ruins of a church, which has 
 not been used as such for these two hundred years : it is large, on the 
 whole in good preservation, has much resemblance with a basilica, 
 and is now used as a stable for horses. The grave of Rachael is 
 on the way to Bethlehem, half a league from the convent of Elias, 
 in the plain of Ewata Atantur. Near the grave of Rachael there 
 is a stone on the ground, with the following letters: )elAvrel. — 
 In Bethlehem there are numerous remains of ancient edifices, 
 but very few that are interesting. The principal church itself is a 
 very remarkable monument of christian antiquity, and the following 
 likewise merit attention ; viz. the tomb of St. Jerome, that of St. 
 Paula, and her daughter Eustochia, that of St. Eusebius, abbot 
 
 Voyages and Tkavels, No. XLVI. Vol VIII. k 
 
66 Scholz's Travels 
 
 of Cremona, near tlie ehiireh of St Catherine, and the sacelhitii 
 of that jjreat father of the ehureh. The most remarkable ruins 
 near this villno-e, are tliose of the Om Solomon, the extent and 
 sohdity of which claim fortius Avork the anti([nity that is ascribed 
 to it. Tradition reports them to have ])een erected by Solomon, 
 and to ])e the same with tliose of lldom. They he in a valley 
 close to a hill. To the NW. opposite tlie ponds, is the walled 
 well under f]^round witli a hole, and two other artificial ones. 
 Over it there are frrvdt vaults. The acjueduct lies (kx'jy in the 
 "•roimd, on a stcme foundation. The water Hows tln'ouiih rouiul 
 iron ])ipes, wliich are covered with two hewn stones, and walled 
 in with stones. There are three ponds. At the f(x)t of the El- 
 feridi mountain of the French, who had a great fortress here, of 
 wliich many ruins are still visible, are remains of Engaddi ; and 
 to the west is the labyrinth of Chareitum. The exterior is of 
 good workmanship, but the interior is but little known. The 
 subterraneous passages are said to extend very far, and to be filK'd 
 with many wild beasts. Vadi Musa, two days and a half journey 
 NK. of Akaba, is extremely remarkable for the numerous anti- 
 cjuities, and the remains of the ancient city of Fctra, which has. 
 been frequently visited of late years. 
 
 Ruins in and about Jerusalem. 
 
 Jerusalem has had the melancholy lot to be so often levelled t<j 
 the foundations, that the appearance of many parts is (jiiite 
 changed : the extent of mount Sion, and the ^loriah, are now 
 dilllcult to trace; and it would probably be impossible for the 
 most careful inquirer to discover or accurately to di>tinguish, 
 among the mass of ruins, the traces of those which belong to 
 particular periods. 
 
 Thus we know, that when the Jews began to rebuild the temple 
 after it destructicm, the Empei'or Adrian caused all the remams 
 to be thro\An into the valley, and a grove, consecrated to Ju})iter, 
 to be plantetl there. What was then done to the valley about 
 the Moriah, was done to other valleys, with other buildings; and 
 the valley of .reh()sn})hat has also lost, by this means, nuich of its 
 depth, breadth and fertility. The in(juirer, therefore, is like one 
 \vd l)y an igmis fntuus, goes from one piece of wall to anotlier, in ^ 
 liopes of hnding interesting remains, ami is every where disa|>- 
 polnted. We have, however, certain fixed points in which we 
 cannot be deceived, — the valley of Jehosaphat and (iehenn;i, the 
 wall of Siloali, the brook of Kedron, mount Sion, the situation of 
 the whole tract, iii which we can easily di>tingulsh the anwri^a 
 i\\n\ KOLTuni^a, woXij, and even in the ruins of the xaivowoXt?. The 
 absurdities which would result from any alteration, are evident to 
 
in Egypt and Lybia, in 1821. 67 
 
 every unprejudiced person. The inhabitants are probably right in 
 their conjectures also ; that the ruins under the present harem, 
 columns of uncommon size, walls of remarkably large stones, 
 some walls in the Birket Israel, the foundation of the south-east 
 wall of the cit}^, and some cisterns on mount Sion, are of the age 
 of David or Solomon; that some pieces of walls about the city, 
 many filled up vaults in it, a considerable part of the south-east 
 wall, which surrounds the former temple of Solomon, as well as 
 the Mosaic pavements, and many ruins under the harem, are of 
 the times of the Romans. So much appears from the description 
 given by several Christians, who were employed as workmen in 
 the reparation of the harem undertaken three years ago, which 
 had been buriit six years ago, and who of course had to search 
 every part, that remains dating from various j^eriods may be liere 
 distinguished. If the long passages and large halls, which they 
 observed in them, were of the age of Herod, the above-mentioned 
 lemains were certainly not so. Reasons, derived from history, 
 architecture or paleography, lead us to attribute to the times of 
 [he Romans, the tombs of the kings, as they are called, half a 
 league north-west of the city ; also most of the sepulchres hewn 
 in ihe rock in the valley of Jehosaphat, and the tombs of the 
 judges a league to the north-west of Jerusalem. 
 
 The only remains of the time of Constantinc are the lower part 
 of the church of the Holy Sepulchre, and a gate on the east side 
 with many ornaments, the church of the Tomb of the Virgin, and 
 the wooden door taken from the first, at St. Stephen's gate, or 
 Setti Mariam. The border, frieze, and all the ornaments are in 
 the same style, and like others of these times, their age is, there- 
 fore, evidently proved, and the tradition confirmed. 
 
 IVfany Greek churches are of the age of Justinian and He- 
 raclius, but either because they had been devastated, or from 
 other causes, they have undergone considerable alterations. 
 
 The ruins of the liospital of the knights of St. John, between 
 the bazar and the church of the Holy Sepulchre, are of the time 
 of the crusades. It seems to Iiave resembled a fortress, and was 
 tbrice as large as the Armenian convent, five hundred paces long 
 and nearly as many broad. When Saladin, favoin-ed by treachery 
 and good fortune, had already scaled the walls of Jerusalem, the 
 Christians long defended themselves obstinately in it. At length, 
 being without succour or hope, they were obliged to yield, and 
 were all put to the sword. Jt was hereupon determined, that in 
 future there should be no building within the walls of this hospital, 
 and hence this spot, which lies almost in the middle of the city, lias 
 lain waste up to this day. There are merely some small houses with 
 shops on the east and south sides, where the bazar is. Formerly 
 ihey all belonged to the patriarchs of Jerusalem. Some centuries 
 
68 jScholz's Travels 
 
 ago, one of the patriarclis fell so desperately in love w'lih a Tiirk- 
 isn girl, that he promised to abjure his religion and enihraee Ma- 
 hometanisni if he could obtain the girl for his ^\ife. The Turks, 
 rejoiced at the acquisition of a man of his importance, gave him 
 the girl. The houses remained to him and his descendants, 
 above forty different families of whom now live in Jerusalem. 
 They share among them the revenue of these houses, which, from 
 the increased number of pilgrims, has been augmented within I 
 these thirtv years in the })rojx>rtion of 7 to 17. 'I'he foimdations 
 of this ])uil(hng are, however, much older, and part of them must 
 be referred at least to the time of the Romans. It is possible that 
 even in the time of Constantine the ruins of ancient buildings 
 were made use of in building a palace for the patriarch, remains 
 of which are here to be seen. The patriarchal church was west 
 of the church of the Holy Sepulchre. Part of it is now con- 
 verted into a mosque. It extended far to the north. The pillars, 
 columns, and arches (l)ehind the church of the Holy Sepulchre) 
 of the ancient church of the a})ostles, are to be referred to the 
 time of Justinian. On the north-east they joined the building 
 belonging to the clergy of the church of the Holy Sepulchre, and 
 of these also some traces may yet be seen. 
 
 The preceding conjectures on the high antiquity of some ruins 
 are by no means arbitrary. The proofs are as strong as can be 
 expected in such a case, and rest on the grand and colossal cha- 
 racter which distinguishes all works of remote antiquity. All the 
 accounts and descriptions given by the ancients of the Tower of 
 Babel, the seven wonders of the w^orld, and other equally large 
 buildings, the origin of which the ancients partly involved in in- 
 genious fables, lead us to this conclusion. ^,Ve have traces of but 
 a very few monuments of these ages remaining for our inspection, 
 and those few are diminutive, comjiared with the great works 
 which were once erected in all ]oarts of Asia and the north-east of 
 Africa, and even in the east of Euro])e, l^ut these few fully con- 
 firm the testimony of the ancients. In Italy there are remains of 
 another kind, whicli give strength to our conjectures. They are 
 the Cyclopean walls. These are generally ascribed to the ilourlsh- 
 ino; times of the Etruscan tribes, or even to those ages of w hich we 
 have no accounts whatever, and nobody will ever think of referring 
 them to the times of the Roman re})ublic, and still less the Au- 
 irustan acre. We consider it eciuallv incorrect to attribute some 
 substructions, which are sometimes met Nvith on Mount Sion, to 
 the Herodlan age. From that time downwards, as well as uj>- 
 wards, to the time of Solom(>n, we find no epocli to which the 
 i-rection of such gigantic buildmgs can be well ascrlbi'd. The a<i;e 
 of till' .Icbusitrs or David, and chleHy that of Solomon, are tlic 
 most suital)l('. The same criterion i^uidcN us when wc ascribe the 
 
in Egypt and Lybia, in 1821. , 69 
 
 ponds of Solomon, near Bethlehem, to the time of Solomon ; the 
 ruins of the bridge of Rubin, some walls of Ctesarea, Sebaste, 
 Sichem, and in all Samaria, the labyrinth near Hebron, and, 
 lastly, some remains under the harem, to times anterior to the 
 Romans, when an energetic national spirit erected them. The 
 well of Nehemiah in the valley of Jehosaphat is also highly inte- 
 resting to the antiquary ; it is extremely deep, very regularly hewn 
 in the rock, and surrounded above with very solid walls. 
 
 The aqueduct is equally interesting, which begins (m the south 
 side of this valley, near St. Mary's Well, and proceeds in a 
 straight line to the north-east : it is eight hundred feet long, three 
 and a half high, and two and a half broad. It is built with a 
 solidity that defies destruction. It was destined to convey the 
 superfluous water from the well, and the valley of Jehosaphat, 
 under ground, to the place where the Kedron flows, whence it 
 filled the pond of Siloah, and lies very deep. Above twenty steps 
 lead down to St. Mary's Well. The M^all round this well is very 
 old, of very large stones, and some writing of remote antiquity ; 
 but they contain nothing entire, and are almost all defaced. 
 
 It would probably be more diflrtcult to fix the age of the re- 
 maining ruins, which have been for the most part placed in the 
 state in which we now see them, in the troublesome times 
 of the Abassides, the Fatimites, the Seleucidae, the cru- 
 saders, the Sultans of Egypt, and the Turks. We mention 
 some that are historically remarkable ; but must repeat our ob- 
 servation, that the age of most of them has been rendered un- 
 distinguishable, either by manifold alterations or too great devas- 
 tations. 
 
 Near the gate Setti ?dariam is the Salahijeh, once a church of 
 St. Anne, with a convent of nuns, where St. Anne and the Holy 
 Virgin are said to have been born. It belongs to the Latins, and 
 well deserves to be repaired The Maronites have applied, but 
 in vain, for this fine building. Near the bath Elain was the 
 . Church of the Virgin, now there is a press in it, with the mosque 
 Kormi and the tomb of the sheik of that name. Where the 
 principal tan-yard, the most offensive place in Jerusalem, now 
 lies, stood the convent of St. Peter, with a large well-built 
 church, on the spot where the apostles' prison once stood. Not 
 far from the Damascus gate is a large cave, hewn in the rock, 
 which is much venerated by the Christians, Jews, and jNTa- 
 hometans, and on which there was once a convent. Jeremiah is 
 said to have composed his lamentations here. To the south, near 
 the wall, is a small pool, or rather a longish vaulted cistern, which 
 is called the prison of Jeremiah. 
 
 Without the present walls of the city, a (]uarter of a league to 
 the west, is a bath, called Berket IMameleh. It is one hundred and 
 
70 Scholzs Travels 
 
 (ifUcn paces long, sevcnty-scvcn bnxul, in tlie (lircctlon of nortli aiul 
 south, and cioht feet dee]). On the east and west sides there are 
 steps to descend into it. It is difficult to decide at wliat period the 
 c-isterns near it were erected. They are well ])uilt, but now filled 
 witli human ])()nes. The manv ruins in tlie environs are of dif- 
 ferent ai^es, witiiout any peculiar characteristics. The sepulchres 
 Jiewn in the rock are certainly all of lluni very old, some filled 
 up, and most of them nuuh dama<i;e(l. A\'ith the hope of finding 
 ins(.iiption8, I cre])t into most of them, l)Ut without success. 
 Almost all of them have a vestibule, a room with a seat or divan, 
 .•uid side a])artments, with recesses for the corpses. I found the 
 vestibules in many of them to be six ])aces broad and foiu* paces 
 loMij;, tlie entrance tliree feet hioh, the room five paces lon<r and 
 .IS many broad, the divan a foot and a lialf liigh. In this ])art of 
 tlie country, to the west and north-west, half a ]eaf]^ue from Jeru- 
 salem, I counted about fifty, ])artly in a line one after tlie other, 
 |)artly scattered about. The most celebrated among them, and 
 the nearest to the city, are the tombs of the kings. 
 
 The access to them was formerly by a large j^ortal and a flight 
 of ste])s ; now all is destroyed, and the entrance very difiicult. 
 Yon come first into a liall, eiglit paces scpiare, in wliich there is a 
 door, leading to the side vaults. There ai'e many pieces of the 
 Jids ornamented with flowers in alto-relievo, but only one that is 
 entire. It is five feet and a lialf long, and the workmanship is 
 good. They are generally ascribed to the Ilerodian age. Those 
 of the judges, north-west of the latter, are all remarkable for the 
 great number of recesses for bodies, by and over each other. 
 Near them is a great ninn])erof tombs, which extend towards tlie 
 \ alley of Lefta. The sejiulchres, which are divided from the 
 city by tlic valley that surrounds Jerusalem, are larger, l)ut partly 
 of later date. Inscriptions in Hebrew and Greek are to be seen 
 on some of them, but for the most part greatly injured. Here 
 were the PlKcnician inscriptions already communicated by Clarke 
 and Oau, which I shall explain on another occasion. Many liave 
 three crosses, and others a great number carved over theentnuice. 
 '^riie number of these sepulchres is very great, and some liave 
 large vestibules, wliich were adorned with paintings, the remains 
 of which shew with certainty tlnit they belong to the period from 
 the f«auth io the seventh century, and were destined for Christians. 
 i ihink (Jiat these* vestibules were designed for religious meetings, 
 lilher of sinjile families or of the whole coiiii'rci'ation. In the 
 latter case, it must be su])})osed, that the bones of martyrs or 
 saints rej)os'^ here. 'I'he paintings decide nothing. Christ, the 
 I Inly Virgin, and other sacri'd jjirsonages, are represented here 
 in llic l?v?'-aiitine style, a^ in ollur Christian |)ainliugs of ihat 
 !>(riod,and (he principal jiarLs are not vet (juile elfaced. As tliese 
 
in Egypt and Lyhia, in 1821. 71 
 
 tombs are always so damp, it is surprising that tlie colours have 
 been preserved so long. There are liKewise many such sepulchres 
 about the village of Siloah, to some of which you asc-end by lad- 
 ders. They are of various forms, mostly of good workmanship, 
 and older than those we have just mentioned. 
 
 Proceeding from Siloah to the north-west, we came to the pre- 
 sent burying ground of the Jews, on the side of the mountain. 
 Here, too, I frequently sought carefully, but could not find any 
 remarkable inscription. There seems to have been but few sepul- 
 chres liewn in the rock, on this spot. The most considerable is 
 that of Jehosaphat, which has various apartments. The entabla- 
 ture is in a good taste. It is almost in the middle of the bury- 
 ing ground. More to the south is the tomb of Absalom, with a 
 lunnber of Hebrew inscriptions of latter times, and to the west 
 the tomb of Zachariah, both of a mixed style, and more modern 
 date. 
 
 On Mount Sion also there are many sepulchres hewn in tlie 
 rock, and I was in a fair way of finding some of very great extent. 
 I am of opinion, that by a more accurate investigation, which is 
 impossible under the prcvsent government, many subterraneous 
 excavations will be found, older than all the remains which are at 
 present known. This will be proved, not by inscriptions, for 
 tliese are for the most part destroyed, but by the simple grandeur 
 of the work. The cisterns lately discovered on the top of this 
 mountain, near David's tomb, are large, and admirably contrived ; 
 but they will sink into nothing in comparison with the catacomb- 
 like apartments, with which the bowels of Sion are undermined. 
 But those luxuriant corn-fields which clothe Sion in April with the 
 finest verdure, do not conceal only the abodes which have been 
 made out of profound veneration for the dead, but the founda^ 
 lions of buildings, and parts of the walls of the fortress itself.V 
 The Christian tombs on it, of all religious parties, and the in- 
 scriptions, in the Greek, Latin, and Armenian languages, are un- 
 interesting to the antiquarian, and without importance to paleo- 
 graphy. This burying ground, southwards from the Coenaculum, 
 was always a subject of the most violent disputes between the 
 Christian sects, and all assured me, that it cost them more Spanish 
 dollars than tliere was room to count upon it. It is believed that 
 St. Stephen, Gamaliel, Nicodemus, and manv martyrs of the first 
 " centuries are buried here, but no traces of this fact can be found. 
 The Jews, toO;, have now a burying ground on the south part of 
 Mount Sion, but among the inscriptions, there arc none that are 
 ancient. 
 
72 Schoh's Travels 
 
 Eccleslatitkal Antiquities in Palestine. 
 
 When a critical examination of witnesses rcspectin^^ tlie eccle- 
 siastical anti([iiities of Palestine is talked of, we are Jed into the 
 domain of the miraculous. But the truth of the tradition, which 
 in memory of interesting scenes in sacred history, made use of 
 such means to prove the circumstances themselves, or the precise 
 spot where they occurred, will, for that very reason, seem suspi- 
 cious, nay, guilt}^ of forging historical facts, when they are not 
 confirmed by other credible testimony. Hence many learned men 
 have thouglit fit to consider the theatre of the sacred history, as 
 it is now represented to us, as entirely incorrect, and made altera- 
 tions, without reflecting that they thereby fell into greater, nay, in- 
 extricable difficulties and absurdities. The unprejudiced incjuirer 
 will appreciate the })r()ofs deduced from miracles, and the histori- 
 cal facts involved in their Nimbus, l)ccause lie knows that extra- 
 ordinary natural phenomena, which, by the special direction of 
 Providence, happened under certain circumstances, that even 
 ordinary events, because they serve as proofs of divine things, 
 are for that reason placed in the class of miracles. 
 
 In an nge when ])iety believed that the Christian religion needed 
 them to confirm its divine origin, this happened so often, that 
 esteemed historians of those times certify that most of the im- 
 portant favourable events interwoven with Christianity were con- 
 nected with miracles. We should therefore liave reason to be 
 surprised if the finding of the Holy Cross on which the Saviour 
 of the world com])leted the great work of the redemption of man- 
 kind, and that of places sacred to the Christians, had not been 
 connected with miracles. It was not considered that the most 
 numerous, and by far the most important monuments, were 
 erected by Constantine, or his pi(ms mother Helena, in an age 
 when the truth might still be ascertained from oral testimony. 
 From the age of the a})ostles men had always lived here, to whom, 
 ns friends or enemies of the Christians, these places were not in- 
 different, who always impressed them on the memory of their de- 
 scendants, as places sacred to the apostles. Their authenticity is 
 farther attested by a series of res])ectable Chri.^tian writers, who 
 lived in Palestine, and of whom, unfortunately, hardly any thijig 
 lias been preserved but their names. As they were fond of re- 
 search, this was a subject that could not be indifferent t«» tluni, 
 .-ind they woultl certainly have corrected by their authority the 
 inaccurate reports of tradition. In the Kast, too, tlu' common 
 ])('ople feel far more interest in inilujulty and its traditions, 
 .-md hence they are preserved with more ])urity there than in 
 any otlur country. 'I'o cast susjjlcion on them would be 
 
in Egypt and Lybia, i?i 1821. 73 
 
 throwing doubts on the whole history of the East, which rests 
 upon them as upon pillars. Lastly, the impartial observer must 
 confess, that the ground, though much changed as we now see it, 
 yet so well agrees with the descriptions of the sacred writers and 
 of Josephus, that we should select the places fixed by tradition, 
 rather than any others, if we had to determine their situation. 
 We will not, therefore, by useless conjectures and reveries, em- 
 bitter the belief of the millions of pilgrims, but rather thank tra- 
 dition for having so animated and extended the sphere of their 
 meditations. It is beyond the purpose of this work to justify 
 myself at length on this subject. Other men have done this in 
 folios, and among the many proofs they adduce, there are always 
 some that are irrefragable. I only lament that some places 
 sacred to the Christians have been converted into mosques, and 
 arc partly inaccessible to Christians on pain of death ; such are 
 the Temple of Solomon, or that of the Presentation, Mount Sion, 
 where our Saviour celebrated the Holy Sacrament of the Lord's 
 Supper, where the apostles received the Holy Ghost, where 
 Matthew was chosen an apostle, and the first Christian assem- 
 blies were held ; the arch of Pilate, whence he shewed Christ to 
 'the people ; and even in part, the place on the Mount of Olives, 
 whence Christ ascended to Heaven ; that others lie in ruins, as 
 tlie Church of the prison of St. Peter, in Jerusalem ; the grave 
 of Lazarus in Bethany ; the grotto of the Virgin, and the church 
 of the Shepherds in Bethlehem ; the church of St. Joachim and of 
 St. Anne in Saphuri; and the o-reat church of St. Peter in Tiberias, 
 j where the scene occurred which is recorded in John xxi. 
 
 The church at Cana, in memory of the first miracle ; that in 
 memory of the raising of the daughter of Nain ; that of the 
 Transfiguration on Mount Tabor, and others : lastly, the churcn 
 of St. John the Baptist on the Jordan ; all these holy places, 
 together with those that are yet preserved, formed a series, which 
 calls to our memory all the principal acts of our Saviour. At 
 Ain Keram, (St. John) two leagues west of Jerusalem, there is 
 a handsome church, with a chapel on the spot where John the 
 Baptist was born, and with a stone on which he preached. A 
 quarter of a league from it is a well, (Bir Eladri) rendered sa- 
 cred by frequent visits from St. Elisabeth : a quarter of a league 
 from this, are the ruins of a convent, built by St. Helena, called 
 Dir Elkalbaze, where St. John did penance. 
 
 The series of the history of our Saviour begins with Naza- 
 reth, the abode of the holy family. The church of the Latins 
 consists of three parts, — the church, the choir, and the sanctuary. 
 The latter is under the choir, and seventeen steps lower than 
 the church, on the scite of the dwelling of St. Joseph. On the 
 left are three pillars, which formed the entrance. The arch- 
 
 VoYApES a«6/ Travels, A'o. XLVI. /V^/. VHI. l 
 
74 SchoU's TravcU 
 
 angel is said to liave appeared to the Virgin between the two th??t 
 stand near togctlier. Ik-hind tlie third, (the ])ase of whicli the 
 Turks have broken to pieces, in liopes of fiiKhng treasures uiuler 
 it, and which, therefore, liangs suspended to the u])}xt vauh) 
 she hid herself, through fear, on hearing the voice of the angel. 
 IJehind the altar of this chapel, there are twelve steps, leailing 
 to another called the Cave of Safety, to which the holy family 
 retired after their return from Egypt. To the right of the 
 church, and in another excavation on the left, Christ usually 
 performed his prayers. You see there a stone which is always 
 moist. A hundred paces to the north-west of the convent, they 
 shew the work-shop of St. Joseph ; three hundred paces south 
 of it, the house in which Christ, with the twelve Ajiostles, 
 dined ; and two hundred paces from that, the Synagogue (now the 
 church of the Catholic Greeks) in which he taught and replied 
 to tlie Jews, who wished to see the miracles of Capernaum re- 
 peated, that they were not worthy of; they were so incenscnl 
 at this, that tlicy pijrsued him to the Mon^ Precipifit, Jialf a 
 league east of Nazareth, intending to ca.st him down, but tlie rock 
 gave way, and he was able to hold fast in the breaks in the rock, 
 which are still to be seen. When we visit the holy places, we 
 must, in general, be content with the sight of an old wall, or of 
 a hole. Here we are rewarded with a fine prospect into tlie val- 
 ley of Esdrelon to Mount Tabor, Hermon, &;c. Near the sides 
 of this cleft in the rock, there are cisterns, and ancient walls, and 
 many caves. The first, point out a convent, which the inhabi- 
 tants say stood there ; the last, the dwellings of the C(£nobites. 
 The Holy Virgin had followed her beloved Son at a distance, 
 and when she saw the Jews coming back, she concealed herself, 
 about the middle of the way, in an opening, called, from the 
 fern* which she felt, the Cave of Terror. Formerlv, there was a 
 convent of nuns here, whence it has, likewise, received the name 
 of Dirlx'nat. 
 
 A league from it is the village of Jaffa, King on two emi- 
 nences, in which there is a chapel on the spot where the house of 
 St. James formerly stood. Tne well, at the foot of the moun- 
 tain, has its name from it ; and near it are C(msi(lerable remains 
 of a reservoir for fish. I have noticed similar remains near a 
 great many springs in l*alest.ine. On Mount 'I'abor, besi(h's the 
 remains of a large town, there were, formerly, those of a church, 
 in memory of the Transfiguration of our Saviour. At Cana was 
 the church of St. Bartholomew, and another belonging to the 
 r^atins. l'\)rmorly, they used to shew the ])()ts that contained 
 the water uhicli (hrist transformed into wiue. 
 
 The field of the cars of coi-n, (Matth. xil.) almost opposite to 
 the villa;'c of Teraan, the Mount of lUalitutks, (Malili. vl 
 
in Egypt and Lybia^ in 1821. 75 
 
 and the spot where the five thousand people were fed, (Matth. xv. 
 82, and Mark, viii. 32), have no monument, but tradition has 
 precisely fixed the scene of these transactions : the first place 
 has always been marked by olive trees ; the second, is such as 
 could not have been better chosen to awaken pure and elevated 
 sentiments. To the south, is the long and beautiful valley, 
 bounded by the great chain of mountains that extends along the 
 left bank of the Jordan ; to the north, Saffet, with its fertile 
 plain ; to the east, the Sea of Tiberias, with its beautiful banks, 
 and to the west. Tabor, and the other mountains of Galilee. 
 
 Under the large and handsome church in Bethlehem, of which 
 no use is made, there is a beautiful chapel, richly adorned with 
 good paintings and decorations, on the spot where Christ was 
 born, and where he was worshipped by the Magi. Eastward 
 of the convent, almost at the end of the village, is the grotto of 
 the Holy Virgin ; and half a league from it, the field of the 
 Shepherds, Dschurun Ebraawa, an olive garden, fenced round, 
 in the middle of which there is a convent, and a subterraneous 
 grotto. But by far the greatest interest is inspired by Jerusa- 
 lem and the environs. In Bethany is the place where I^azarus 
 was raised from the dead, and where the fathers still read a mass 
 every year. On Mount Sion is the Coenaculum, where Christ 
 celebrated the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper with the apostles, 
 washed their feet, appeared to the Ten after his re&urrection, 
 and eight days afterwards to St. Thomas ; where St. Matthew 
 was chosen an apostle ; where the Seven Deacons were appointed, 
 and the first assemblies were held. Not far from it, in the Armenian 
 Convent, is tlie place where Peter denied Christ, and then wept 
 bitterly ; and wdiere our Saviour was a prisoner in the palace of 
 the high j^riest. In the Valley of Jehosaphat, they shew the place 
 where Christ pai'ted from the disciples, to be alone with the three > 
 chosen ones — where he left the three to pray alone — where 
 he sweated blood, and Avas betrayed by Judas. They shew, 
 likewise, the footsteps on a stone under the bridge which crosses 
 the Cedron, which are said to have arisen on the fall of our Sa- 
 viour. In the church of the Holy Sepulchre, there are chapels 
 in memory of Mount Calvary — of the grave of Christ — of the 
 pillar where he was scourged — of the parting of his clothes — of 
 the finding of the cross — of his appearance to Mary Magdalen 
 under the figure of a gardener, and the stone on which his corpse 
 was anointed. The place where our Saviour was crucified can- 
 not now be ascertained. It is evident, from the accounts of the 
 sacred writers, that it was at a short distance out of the city. It 
 cannot have been on the spot which is now assigned to it, m the 
 church of the Holy Sepulchre, for this is nearly in the middle of 
 the present city, and can never have been outside of the walls. 
 
76 iicholzs Travels 
 
 North-east of it were the temples ; north-west, tlie larf^est and 
 finest palaces and residences of ancient Jerusalem ; to the west, 
 the city extended above a league, far beyond the walls of the pre- 
 sent Jerusalem ; to the south was Mount Acra, with its nu- 
 merous edifices, and the buildinos and market-places lyin<r be- 
 tween tliat and Mount Sion. This difficulty was overlooked by 
 those who, even in ancient times, affirmed, that ]\Iount Calvary 
 was under the present church of tlie Holy Sepidchre ; that is, 
 what was formerly nearly the middle of the city. 
 
 No objection can be made to the existence of the tomb of 
 Christ on this spot. We know, that formerly sepulchres hewn in 
 the rock, in the city, were common among the Hebrews. Tliere 
 can be no doubt, that this family vault was easily to be ascer- 
 tained, and the place v/as certainly held in honour in the oldest 
 times. The believers made pilgrnnages to it, as the Jews were 
 wont to visit the tombs of their relations. It is not improljable, 
 that even in the apostolic age there was a kind of chapel there, 
 which, being a place held sacred by the Christians, was treated by 
 their enemies, as Eusebius describes, Vit. Const. III. 25, 2G. "What 
 unprejudiced person will fail to be interested by the simple narrative 
 given by the father of ecclesiastical history of the buiidiug of the 
 temple over tlie Holy Sepulchre, or who will think it doubtful ? 
 But in that place, Eusebius evidently speaks only of the II(jly 
 Sepulchre over which the church was built. Theodoret expressly 
 distinguishes this from another church, which was built on the 
 jilace where the cross stood, in Golgotha, and St. Cyril frequently 
 assures us, that he had preached there. As these two places, 
 both so important to Christians, were so often mentioned to- 
 gether, this may have caused them to be confounded after the de- 
 struction of the churches by Cosroes, when that in Golgotha wholly 
 disappeared. This same place, or its inmiediate vicinity, is as- 
 signed by tradition, as tlie scene of many of the circumstances of 
 the passion of our Saviour, for M'hich, in consequence, particular 
 cliapels were destined. Mount Calvary was placed near it, in 
 order to increase the interest of the series. 
 
 The Jews diff'er from the Christians, in many respects, con- 
 cerning the situation of places remarkable in ScrijUure. A\'hat 
 the Cliristians call the Temple of Solomon, they call the Scliool 
 of Solomcm. Tliey place tiie temple rather more to the south, 
 about where th(; Sdchara, or temple of the presentation, is. 'I'he 
 ti'm])le, they say, is in INIoriah, which they also make the scene 
 of Abraham's ofierlng of his Son Isaac, which tlie Greeks, witli- 
 oiit reason, place on IMouiit Calvary. They place the tond) of 
 David — of Solomon, and of other kings, on Blount Sion: but 
 that of tlie ])roj)lu'ls on the Mount of Olives, and the nccuracv 
 of the situation ol' tluMond) ol" .Iehosa])hat, are not doubted. The 
 
in Egypt and Lybia, in 1821. 77 
 
 scite of the other sacred places has been less disputed ; and tliere 
 is, in fact, no sufficient ground for contesting it. Whether there 
 be an error of a few paces cannot be decided ; but it would be 
 ridiculous to think of disputing about it. 
 
 The Christians in Syria. 
 
 No province in the Ottoman empire has such a variety of 
 Christian sects as Syria. The Catholics arc of the Latin, Greek, 
 Armenian, or Syrian church, or Maronites, and constitute al- 
 most a sixth part of the population of this province. Tlie La- 
 tins, enjoy as Franks, certain privileges ; the especial protection 
 of the King of France, and otlier European princes, and form, 
 both in political and religious affairs, a status in statu. But their 
 j^rivileges have been much abridged since the Frencli invasion. 
 Charles IV. King of Spain, applied in 1793, to Sultan Selim III. 
 for the title of Protector of the Sanctuaries, or of the Fathers of 
 the Holy Land. Napoleon, likewise, granted tliem this protec- 
 tion : but the applications made to the Divan in their favour were 
 of no avail. 
 
 Divine service is performed by Franciscans, Capuchins, Car- 
 melites, or Lazarists, who Iiave been sent there from the con- 
 vents in Europe. The first are, here, almost as ancient as their 
 order, which appears, from the bulls of Gregory IX. of the 29th 
 of Janviary, 1230, and Alexander IV. of the 27th of March, 
 1257, in which the same absolution is given to them that had 
 been received by the Crusaders. In the general chapter at Nar- 
 bonne in 1260, the province of the Holy Land was declared to be 
 the thirty-second, and divided into two guardianships, (custodia) 
 of Cyprus and Syria. In 1291, they shared the melancholy 
 fate of all other Christians in Syria; but since 1333 have been 
 allowed to dwell at the Holy Sepulchre, and since 1342, to read 
 mass there, and dwell in a convent on Mount Sion. 
 
 This convent they lost in 1569, and removed into the convent 
 of St. John, then called St. Salvator, which they purchased 
 from the Georgians, where they have remained to the present 
 day, as in all the other convents belonging to this province, per- 
 secuted in various ways by the Turks, and continually at va- 
 riance with the schismatic Greeks and Armenians about the sanc- 
 tuaries. Besides the native Catholics of the Latin church, they 
 include in their community the French subjects, who were for- 
 merly very ninnerous in Kama, Acre, and Saida; some kings 
 of France, and lastly, Louis XV., in a diploma of 1725, de- 
 clares the guardian of the convent of St. Salvator, ajiostolical 
 commissary, and their subjects in those parts to be dependent on 
 him in all ecclesiastical affairs. 
 
78 ^c/iolza Travels 
 
 These fathers still live at Jertisalein, where there are 800 
 Catholics belonging to their community; at St. John 80; at 
 liothlehem 100; at Nazareth 800; at Rama 2 ; at Jaffa 300; at 
 Acre 80 ; at Arizza 2 ; at Damascus 200; at Tripoli 18; at La- 
 dak ia 20; at Aleppo 800; at Larnaca 600; at Cairo 700; and at 
 Alexandria 2000; as superintendents of the churches belong- 
 ing to their convents and in the sanctuaries of Jerusaleu), 
 Bethlehem, St. John, and Nazareth ; as administrators and inter- 
 cessors for Catholic (yhristeudom, for which, and especially its 
 princes, they read all the masses, and intercede for tbem in their 
 {)rayers. They have been obliged to abandon the convents of 
 Saida, Scandaroon, Rashid and Nicosia, for want of priests, 
 but their convent at Constantinople is still inhabited by their 
 commissary. The ecclesiastical affairs are managed by the 
 guardians of the convent of Jerusalem, the economical by the 
 procurator, and the whole collectively b}' the Discretoriiim, 
 'J'he (juardian is chosen by the Discretorium from those who 
 have been missionaries or curators of the Italian nation, con- 
 firnjed by the General of the order at Romp, and in the above- 
 mentioned parishes has almost all the authority of a bishop. 
 'J'he Procurator is chosen among the fathers of the Spanish, 
 and the Vicar from those of the French nation. The ])iscre- 
 torium is composed of these three, one priest of the Italian, 
 and one of the German nation. Their disbursements, for the 
 exactions of the Turks, for the maintenance of their churches 
 and the poor, and their own wants, are defrayed from the alms 
 which they used to receive from all the states in Christendom, 
 but for the last forty years only from Spain, Portugal, and 
 Italy. From the earliest times they have possessed consider- 
 able landed property. Thus they have many gardens in Jeru- 
 salem, whicli they let a long time ago to the Greeks, who at 
 some future time will probably contest their right to them. 
 Resides the Cilive-trecs in the garden of Gethsemane, they had 
 many others in the valley of Jehosaphat ; but they lost these long 
 ago, and by degrees many others, so that they have now only 
 the few in the above mentioned garden. They pay annually 
 to the pacha of Damascus seven thousand piasters, as ground- 
 rent for the churches and convents in and near Jerusalem, and 
 one thousand piasters for that at Damascus; to the pacha of 
 Acre ten thousand piasters, as gr(iund-rent for the churches at 
 Nazareth, Acre, Saida, Naplous, Arissa, Ladakia, 'i'iberias, 
 Naim, Tabor, Saj)liori, Jaffa, and (.\ina, which latter are how- 
 ever in ruins. Tliey likewise pay from one thousand to two 
 thousand piasters on the marriage of the governor or pacha, 
 ami other festivals. Since they have bcf>n deprived of the pro- 
 tection of the French minister at Constantinople, there has beeu 
 
in E,2;ypt and Lybia, in 1821. 79 
 
 no end to the extraordinary demands made upon them. In 
 1805 the Pacha Abdallah demanded one hundred thousand 
 piasters; in 1806 a rather smaller sum ; in 1807 one hundred 
 and forty-five thousand piasters, and in the following years 
 nearly as much. In 1813 he took only a hundred and seventy- 
 five purses, because he said he knew the bad condition of 
 Europe! Some years ago the procurator refused to satisfy the 
 demands of the pacha. It was immediately affirmed that he 
 had began to build in the convent of St. John, and a committee 
 of inquiry was sent thither, which cost him as much as the first 
 demand. The pacha frequently obliges them to purchase of 
 him cattle, fruit, and other things, at twenty times their value. 
 The arrival of the pacha of Damascus in Jerusalem every year 
 is like a day of judgment for the procurators of the different 
 convents. If he is dissatisfied with them, they are inevitably 
 visited with fine and imprisonment. Some years ago the 
 Mufti of Jerusalem required an annual tribute of one thousand 
 piasters. Eight jears afterwards, when the fathers obtained 
 from Constantinople a firman, ordering the mufti to repay 
 these sums, he fled, besieged the city with some hundred pea- 
 sants, till the fathers had given him the receipt, as if he had 
 paid the whole. 
 
 If one Christian party has had any repairs made in its church 
 or convent, the others immediately give information of it to the 
 Motsallem or Cadi, who never neglects such an opportunity 
 of imposing a fine. On the 18th of August, 1813, the governor 
 demanded two thousand piasters, on occasion of the birth of a 
 son of the sultan. The procurator refused, but three days af- 
 terwards was obliged to pay five thousand piasters, because a 
 child, which a servant of the Latin convent carried in his 
 arms, had a green branch in its hand. He was accused of 
 having violated the law. The opening of a third door in their 
 convent at Damascus cost them last year seven thousand 
 piasters, and they were forced to pay nearly as much this year 
 to retain the convent of St. John, where they were ill-treated 
 and kept prisoners for several weeks. The expences for the 
 poor Catholics in Judea also increased. Besides the dra- 
 goman and the servants of the convent, they have to sup- 
 port, according to established custom, the school-master and 
 all the children ; all the widows and orphans ; to keep in repair 
 the houses which fall to the convent for want of male heirs (in 
 the East women cannot inherit), without receiving any rent 
 from the occupants; to pay the annual land-tax for the Beth- 
 lemites; to supply in summer all the Christians with water from 
 their eight-and-twenty cisterns, while the other inhabitants of 
 Jerusalem purchase it of the Mahometans at ten para per 
 
80 . Scholz\^ Travels 
 
 bottle; to maintain tlie poor, i.e. the greater part of the 
 Catholics, and to furnish all Mahometans and Christians gratis 
 with medicine from their laboratory . If a Catholic is impri- 
 soned for any dispute or misdemeanour, they must redeem 
 him ; if not, the Greeks do it, and the delinquent goes over to 
 thiMT church. They have also to pay the other penalties for 
 tlnir poor brethren, which the Turks take care shall happen 
 very often. This is particularly the case ^^ith the Bethle- 
 mites, who are almost every month engaged in disputes with 
 the Motsallem of Jerusalem. Sometimes they had circulated 
 false coin ; sometimes they had not assisted a caravan, belong- 
 ing to the Motsallem, when attacked by robbers ; sometimes 
 thoy all rise in a mass against the augmentation of the taxes for 
 their fields. The fathers regularly pay one thousand piasters 
 annually for this land belonging to the Catholics in Bethlehem, 
 which has always been customary, on account of their great 
 poverty. They do not perform any service for the fathers in 
 return ; they are even exempted from church dues, only on 
 marriages, Twelfth-day, and Holy Thursday they make them 
 presents of rosaries, crucifixes, or images of mother of pearl. 
 The same may be said of all the parishioners belonging to the 
 congregations of the fathers in the Holy Land. Here and there 
 a custom has been retained from ancient times which is of ad- 
 vantage to them. Thus it is usual in Jerusalem for the super- 
 intendent to visit the grave of a deceased person three suc- 
 cessive days after the burial, and he receives one piaster for each 
 visit. Lastly, the maintenance of poor pilgrims from, Europe, 
 small as their number is, occasions them a considerable ex- 
 pence. Each has a month allowed him, during which he must 
 be fed and taken care of in the several convents, where there 
 are sanctuaries. 
 
 Thus these good fathers have laboured these thirty years 
 under these manifold exactions. Their expenccs and debts 
 increase; the latter already exceed 2,000,000 piasters; the 
 number of their priests for missions is diminishing; within 
 twenty years fifty of them have died, the majority of the plague ; 
 they will soon be obliged to give up other convents, and thus 
 they gradually approach their entire dissolution. But it is said 
 they have prepared their own misfortune: by pride, arrogance, 
 scandal(Mis publication of the sins made known to them by j 
 confession, by harsh treatment of their poor, and insolence to 
 travellers, they have made themselves despised and hated, not I 
 only by the schismatics, but by their own brethren, ami com- 
 pelled them to labour at their overthrow. These reproaches I 
 ar(.> unhappily not entirely groundless, I'or want of good la- 
 bourers, it has Ik'( n necessary to admit bad ours into the vine- 
 
in Egypt and Lybia, in 1821. 81 
 
 yard of the Lord. The smaller number are true followers of 
 Saint Francis, worthy to pray for Christendom at the tomb of 
 their Lord ; many have done an injury to the good cause which 
 can hardly be repaired. 
 
 When the French commercial houses and factories still flou- 
 rished, the Catholics of the Latin church maintained a close 
 connexion with them, carried on trade, and were very wealthy. 
 In the French invasion they lost, like the French themselves, 
 all their real property, and the greater part of them are now 
 poor. In Jerusalem and St. John they live by the convent 
 and by making rosaries ; in Bethlehem by that and agriculture. 
 The situation of the Catholics in other cities is more tolerable. 
 They call themselves Franks, and are recognized as such by the 
 Turks, but they are all natives of the East ; only a few of them 
 understand Italian, and none of them Latin, in which language 
 their divine service is performed. But they generally attend a 
 sermon on Sundays and holidays, and when children, receive re- 
 ligious instruction in their own language, from the missionaries 
 who have learned Arabic in the convents of Damascus or 
 Aleppo. As the followers of Saint Francis have every where 
 the cure of souls, the priests of other orders in Syria can be 
 considered only as missionaries, for instance, the Capuchins at 
 Damascus and Tripolis. It is only in Beroiit, and within these 
 few years in Saida also, that they are priests of the Latin. 
 Christians. They too have always enjoyed the special pro- 
 tection of the kings of France. 
 
 The Carmelites have convents on Mount Carmel, in Tripolis, 
 Bscherdi, and Aleppo, as also in Merdin, Bagdad, and Bas- 
 sorah. The Lazarists have succeeded the Jesuits in Antura, 
 Damascus, and Tripolis. Their situation is likewise very cri- 
 tical, as they receive no support from Europe, and the places 
 of those who die are not filled up. In each of the above-men- 
 tioned convents there is but one priest. When Ghezzar Pacha, 
 after besieging Acre, gave up to the discretion of the Maho- 
 metans the Christians and their property, the convent on Mount 
 Carmel, which the French had changed into an hospital, was 
 unroofed, as also its church, and the effects of the monks de- 
 stroyed ; since which time it has stood desolate. The monk in- 
 tended for it lives in the hospital at Heifa, and visits it himself 
 very seldom, but his servant does every day. Under Soliman 
 Pacha the Christians were not allowed to go in pilgrimage to it. 
 The convent has, however, been repaired, and considerable 
 donations collected for it in France and Italy. 
 
 The Catholics of the Greek church are considered as pious, 
 firm in their religion, and partly as martyrs. They have a 
 patriarch, now Ignatius, w^ho resides at Zug, in Kesrouan ; an 
 
 Voyages and Travf^s^ No. XLVI. Vol VIII. M 
 
82 Scholz's Travels 
 
 archbishop of Siir, now Cyrill Bebas, who resides in his 
 diocese, and six bishops; for Palestine, Thcodotion, Bishop of 
 Acre ; for the Mount of the Druses, Basil, Bishop of Saida ; 
 for Kesrouan, Theodotion, Bishop of Beirout; for Aleppo and 
 its environs, Basil, Bishop of Aleppo ; for Damascus, li^natius. 
 Bishop of Sacheleh ; and for the Anti Lebanon, Clement, 
 Bishop of Balbec. Most of these bishops cannot visit their 
 dioceses, as their lives are in danger from the schismatic Greeks. 
 They have therefore their vicars, who make the episcopal 
 visitations in their stead, collect alms for the bishop, and 
 other purposes. They are chosen by the people among the 
 monks, as they must be unmarried, and a higher degree of 
 knowledge is expected from them ; are instituted by the pa- 
 triarch, and receive their confirmation from Rome. Their parish 
 priests, without any preparation, are also chosen by the people 
 and ordained by their bishop. This office descends from father 
 to son. I was assured that nothing more is required for it than 
 reading and writing, a knowledge of the ceremonies and of the 
 catechism, and somepatural abilities. They perform the ser- 
 vice and preach in Arabic, and have no notion of any other 
 language. Only the Bishop of Sur can live near his metro- 
 politan church, and visit his little diocese every year, in which 
 there are about two thousand Catholics and ten priests. The 
 diocese of Acre lies chiefly in Galilee, and has between four 
 and five thousand Catholics of the Greek church. The other 
 bishoprics are far more considerable. In Damascus there are 
 above ten thousand, and in Aleppo above fifteen thousand Ca- 
 tholics of the Greek church. They have always been exposed, 
 but particularly of late years, to the most violent persecutions 
 from the schismatic Greeks. Last year the patriarch at Da- 
 mascus paid vast sums to the pacha to compel them to go over 
 to their church. They v/ere obliged to pay great sums of 
 money, many were thrown into prison, and when they were 
 threatened with still more severe punishments, all the rich 
 members fled to Egypt, Lebanon, and Constantinople. Their 
 condition has probably been ameliorated on the arrival of a 
 new pacha, for this assurance was given them on their repeated 
 applications to the divan. 
 
 At Nazareth 1 was witness to an affecting scene with the 
 Bishop of Babylon. One Wednesday morning, early, the heads 
 of families of the Catholic Greek church, mostly venerable old 
 men, assembled in the Latin convent with their worthy priest, 
 an old mau of seventy-five, at their head. They expressed 
 their joy at being able to pay their respects to a Liatin bishop, 
 on which the speaker began to paint the melancholy prospect 
 they had before them, after the dreadful events in Damascui; 
 
in Egypt and Lyhia, in 18'21. -83 
 
 and other places. He affirmed that they were ready to die as 
 martyrs for their religion, but they feared that hatred and per- 
 secution would not spare their families, and they therefore be- 
 .sought the bishop to contribute to obtain some alleviation of 
 their fate, from the divan, by the intervention of the French 
 minister at Constantinople, which the bishop promised. The 
 tears which these venerable men shed were proofs of their 
 good disposition, and we parted with emotion. 
 
 There are no Catholic Armenians in Palestine, but their 
 number is considerable in Syria, and in Aleppo it amounts to 
 above 10,000. Their patriarch lives in Scharfi, on Mount Le- 
 banon. They also are exposed to the most violent persecutions 
 from the Schismatics, which were very sanguinary at Con- 
 stantinople in 1820, and the latter had there the triumph of 
 seeing four Catholic Armenian priests go over to them, most 
 scandalously betraying their own party. At Aleppo they have 
 frequently been called upon by the pacha to unite with the 
 Schismatics, and on their refusing to comply, he put many to 
 the torture, and ten were publicly beheaded ; but even this 
 availed nothing. They remained firm to their church, many 
 fled, but most were ready to die for their religion. Hereupon 
 the persecutions ceased. So long as the Catholics of these 
 various churches are compelled to live with the Schismatics, 
 and to pay the extraordinary contributions to the schismatic 
 patriarchs, and are thus politically identified with them, their 
 lot will not be altered. Catholic Syrians are likewise only in" 
 Aleppo and on Mount Lebanon, where their patriarch resides, 
 in a convent, three leagues from Antura; but they are very 
 numerous in Diarbekir. The few Catholics of the Chaldean 
 church in Aleppo are under their patriarch at Mohal. 
 ■ Of all the Christian parties in Syria the Maronites are the 
 most numerous and powerful. They inhabit almost alone the 
 district of Kesrouan, and a great part of the Mountain of the 
 Druses. They have a patriarch, who resides at Kanowin, six 
 bishops, and six titular bishops.' At Beirout and Trabolus 
 their community is more numerous than all ihe others together; 
 and in Aleppo, Damascus, Latakia, and Saida, they are also 
 very numerous. They reside likewise in several towns in 
 Palestine, and it is only about forty years since they withdrew 
 from Jerusalem. They are under the Bishop of Acre, and 
 their number is estimated at 200,000. All the Catholics of the 
 Latin church in Palestine, Syria, and Egypt, with the ex- 
 ception of the fathers of the Holy Land and their parishioners, 
 are under a bishop, now Gardolfi, of Piemont, who resides at 
 Antura in Kesrouan. He is at the same time the Pope's Legate 
 
64 Scholz's Travels 
 
 in these countries, and authorized to decide many disputes be- 
 tween Catholics of different churches, (which must otherwise be 
 referred to Rome) and to give dispensations. 
 
 The other Christian Sects. 
 
 Next to the Catholics, the Greeks are the most numerous. 
 They have two patriarchs, of Antioch and of Jerusalem, the 
 former residing in Damascus, and the latter at Constantinople, 
 where he administers the ecclesiastical affairs of all the Greeks, 
 as the patriarch of Constantinople does their political con- 
 cerns. He has a deputy at Jerusalem, an office which is now 
 filled by the Bishop of Petra. Besides him there live at Jeru- 
 salem the Bishops of Nazareth, Lydda, Gaza, and Philadelphia ; 
 only the Bishop of Acre lives near his cathedral. The limits 
 of their jurisdiction are not very strictly defined ; those re- 
 siding at Jerusalem are only titular, and serve to enhance the 
 splendour of divine worship in Jerusalem in the eyes of the 
 pilgrims who annually resort hither. The Greeks have at 
 Jerusalem nine convents of monks and four of nuns, and four 
 others in the vicinity. The monks of these convents, as of all 
 others in Palestine, come from the Archipelago and other 
 Greek provinces. Those among them are generally raised to 
 the episcopal dignity who can pay the largest sum to the 
 patriarch. The nuns also come here from distant parts, live 
 here in a secluded manner as lon^ as they please, generally for 
 life, on alms and the produce of their needle- work ; they pray 
 the hours, like the monks, and wear a peculiar dress. Accord- 
 ing to long-established custom, contrary to the laws of the 
 church, they are not for ever bound to the three vow s. They 
 also live on the alms which the monks collect, or which are 
 left by the pilgrims in Jerusalem. The bishops, archi- 
 mandrites, and many monks, live in the great monastery ; in 
 the others generally only one monk and some lay brothers ; 
 and in the nunnery from ten to twelve nuns ; in the monastery 
 of St. Saba, formerly so full, there are only ten, and in the 
 rest from five to six monks. They perform all their prayers in 
 the Greek language, which is the only one they understand. 
 The country priests, however, are only acquainted with the 
 Arabic, and their whole learning is limited to reading, writing, 
 and a knowledge of the rites. The Greek churches are for 
 the most part small, and all of one form. 
 
 The Greeks have in general an irreconcileable hatred to- 
 wards the Catholics, place them on a footing with Turks and 
 Jews, endeavour to persecute them in all possible ways, and, 
 
i?i Egjipt and Lybia, in 1821. 85 
 
 on the other hand, to be on p^ood terms with the other rc^ligious 
 parties, from which they differ in the dogmas as much as from 
 them. At Jerusalem they sometimes approximate, receive 
 presents from each other, and the Greeks very artfully take 
 advantage of such opportunities to deprive the Latins of their 
 property in the Holy Land. This hypocritical friendship pre- 
 ceded, for instance, the seizure of the garden of the Shepherds 
 at Bethlehem, as well as the entirely excluding them from the 
 Holy Sepulchre. But those friendly relations were never of 
 long duration. 
 
 It is very difficult to account for this hatred. It is said to 
 arise from the difference in the articles of faith ; but these are 
 not known either to their priests or the people, for they never 
 think of catechising or preaching; making the sign of the 
 cross, prostration before the reliques and images of the saints, 
 and observance of the fasts, are with them the main points. 
 For these they shew much more reverence than the common 
 people do among the Catholics. First, they bow very low be- 
 fore the image, placed on a stone in the middle of the church, 
 representing the patron Saint; m^ke three times the sign of 
 the cross — kiss it — make again the sign of the cross, and kiss 
 the ground : they then proceed to kiss all the images round the 
 church successively, and this is done by them all with as much 
 uniformity as if they had been trained to it from their youth 
 like soldiers. Confession is general, and made by many at the 
 same time, with the observation that they have not committed 
 any of the sins enumerated the last time ; only when the sin- 
 ner is conscious of having committed a great transgression, he 
 confesses it to the priest in private, generally standing. Among 
 the other Oriental Christians, both sit down together on the 
 ground. 
 
 Nor is the difference of the articles of great importance, as 
 the Synods have long since decided. The procession of the 
 Holy Ghost has been long understood and explained by 
 thinking Greek divines, according to the doctrine of all the 
 western churches. The dispute respecting the validity of the 
 baptism of the Catholic church, on account of the form 
 Baptizo te instead of Bapiizetur Servus tuus, turns on a 
 logomachy, and it has been long since acknowledged to be 
 indifferent whether it is performed by immersion or aspersion. 
 But the repetition of baptism usual among them, in the case 
 of Christians of other sects joining their church, is condemned 
 by almost all Christian antiquity, and by several councils. In 
 theory they deny purgatory, but in practice assume the for- 
 giveness of mortal sin, by intercession in the mass, and require 
 large sums for it ; at Jerusalem two hundred piasters for a 
 
8G Scholz'-'i' Travels 
 
 mass. In practice many adopt divorce, forgiveness of the sin 
 of theft without satisfying the injured party, general confession, 
 the attainment of salvation, without the knowledge of the ar- 
 ticles of faith ; but in theory they agree with the Catholic 
 church. This antipathy uppears therefore to be rather the 
 work of the priests, who, whether from religioiis zeal or self- 
 interest, hate the adherents of the Pope, whom they consider 
 as the rival of their Patriarch. I know several Catholics who 
 were induced by their fears to go with the French to Egypt. 
 Being obliged, at the departure of the French, to return home 
 to seek a livelihood, they arrived at Gaza, without provisions, 
 %vJthout money, almost naked, and exhausted by the lone: 
 journey through the desert. They crawled to the Greek church, 
 hoping to oblain from Christians something to appease their 
 hunger and thirst. They made themselves known ; but when 
 the Greeks h?ard that they were Franks, they replied to their 
 iutreaties that they might die like dogs, and that they were 
 worse than the Mahometans. They did not like to apply to 
 the Mahometans because they feared for their lives; but a 
 Mahometan woman, who had observed them from her harem, 
 saved them fi-om inevitable death. She sent them meat and 
 drink, and thus enabled them to continue their journey to 
 Jalfa. National hatred too seems to have its elfect : at least, 
 the IVJoldavians, Wallachians, and Servians, though of the same 
 religion as the Greeks, are their most inveterate enemies. But 
 whatever may be the cause of their hatred towards the Franks 
 in general, in Palestine interest is the chief motive. It is the 
 contest for the possession of the holy places. 
 
 The Christians enjoyed for three hundred and fifty years the 
 free exercise of their religion insured to them by Omar. Amurat 
 interrupted it for a short time. But in 1001), the church of the 
 Holy Sepulchre, which had been destroyed, was already rebuilt, 
 and it appears from a decree of Muzafar, king of the Saracens, 
 dated 1023, and from another of 1059, that the holy places 
 were at that time confided to the care of Frank, i.e. of Catholic 
 monks. 'J'his was likewise the case during the continuation of 
 the sovereignty of the Frank kings in Jerusalem. 
 
 As soon alter the crusades as the Holy Sepulchre was again 
 accessible to the Christians, the disciples of St. Francis were the 
 first who took possession of the holy places that had formerly 
 been repaired and adorned by the Latins, prayed there, and be- 
 ing gradually assisted by pious contributions, especially of Ko- 
 b(M't, king of the Two Sicilies, and his wife Sancia, of Peter of 
 Arragon, and of .]ohn,king of the Two Castilles, they had in i?^Cui 
 again fitted up all the sanctuaries and chapels lor divine worship. 
 The Sultan repeatedly confirmed them in the possession, uud 
 
in Egypt cmd Lyhia, in 1S21. 87 
 
 granted them firmans for their safety, in the years 1059, 1?03, 
 1206, 1212, 1233, and 1407, which v>-ere expressly designed 
 lor that purpose, or tacitly in others, in whicti they received 
 permission to build with lime, in the years 1203, 1213, 1271, 
 1310, 1397, 1411, 1446, 1495, 1501, 1502, and 1803; a per- 
 mission which has always been purchased at a hi^h price 
 under the Mahometan governments. By degrees the other 
 Christian sects took part in it, and soon began to contend with 
 them for the sanctuaries, as is proved by the firmans of 1203, 
 1277, 1494, 1540, and 1558, which are directed against them, 
 and secure the exclusive possession to the Latins. It was the 
 Georgians especially who disputed the possession with them, 
 and often combated with very powerful arms, because they 
 were very rich. But when the alms from their own country 
 failed, and could no longer pay tribute to the Turks, they were 
 deprived of the possession, and succeeded in it by the Greeks, 
 under whose protection they placed themselves. The latter, 
 not satisfied with the chapels in the church of the Holy Se- 
 pulchre, deprived them in 1674 of the Holy Sepulchre and 
 of the Stable (Prsesepe) in Bethlehem, as well as the principal 
 aisles of both churches. It w^as not till fifteen years afterwards 
 that they restored both places to their rightful owners, on the 
 intervention of the Emperor Leopold. But this only increased 
 ,their hatred ; and the lirmans of various years, from 1540 to 
 1774, which the Latin fathers were compelled to beg from the 
 Sultan by the intervention of France, and at times of Austria, 
 sufficiently shew how violent and incessant the struggles of the 
 two parties w^ere. In those lirmans the Sultan constantly re- 
 peats the form of words, " The Holy Land, and all that it 
 contains, is ours by the right of conquest. The Latins have 
 always possessed it as property purchased by them ; it has al- 
 ways been confirmed to them as such, and therefore it cannot 
 be taken from them — it belongs to them for ever.'"* Though the 
 words are so very precise, and but ill calculated to give 
 another party hopes of acquiring this property, viz. the Church 
 of the Holy Sepulchre, the Greeks did not lose their courage. 
 On the 12th of October, 1808, a fire (whether arising from 
 accident or design we will not decide) broke out in the church 
 of the Holy Sepulchre, which consumed the whole of the 
 upper part of it. The Greeks immediately hastened to Con- 
 stantinople, and by paying large sums of money, of which the 
 -Divan was in need for the war against Russia, succeeded, in 
 spite of the earnest remonstrances of the Latin commissioners, 
 w ho, at that time, were destitute of ihenervus re rum ^erendarum^ 
 and of the protection of France, in obtaining the necessary fir- 
 mans by which they alone were authorised to repair the church. 
 
88 S,'cholz\s Travels 
 
 The Lalinsand Armenians strove in vain to join Ihem ; they pre- 
 tended they fiad all the necessary firmans to build the church ; 
 but they had in fact only leave to make the necessary repairs, and 
 while they were employed in procuring materials, the Pacha of 
 Damascus came on a visit to Jerusalem. He being likewise 
 bribed by them, interpreted the firmans as they wished, and 
 they commenced their building with (he destruction of all the 
 Latin inscriptions in the whole church, and of all the sanctua- 
 ries, of the sepulchral monuments of Godfrey of Bouillon, and 
 of IJaldwin, and of t'vo others, the monuments of Philip of 
 Burgundy, and of Philip I. king of Spain, of the marble, with 
 which the walls were covered, of the walls erected by St. He- 
 lena on the sacred rock, of the Mosaics of beautiful stones, of 
 the sacred rock itself, and in short of every thing that even 
 Cosroes had spared, in the presence of the Pacha, and erected 
 upon the ruins the present church,.which they consider as their 
 property. The procurator of the Latin convent protested iu 
 vain against these shocking acts of violence, against this horrible 
 devastation. He was thrown into prison because he could not 
 pay the sum of 60,000 Spanish dollars that was demanded of 
 him. The Hattisheriff and counter orders which the French 
 ambassador, M. de Latour Marbourg, obtained in 1811, came 
 too late ; in consequence of this Hattisheriff, the Latins were 
 going to replace their arms in the wall of a chapel formerly 
 belonging to them, upon the spot where the cross is said to 
 have been found. The Greeks would not permit this, alledg- 
 ing it was now^ their property. While they were employed in 
 setting in a stone, a Latin father came to pray ; they struck him 
 on the head with a hammer, and would have murdered him, 
 had not his cries brought others to his assistance. The Greeks 
 afterwards found out new contrivances to get possession of the 
 Garden of the Shepherds, near Bethlehem, with forty olive trees, 
 and to ill treat the catholic pilgrims who visited it. The 
 ]''ranks, without protection from France, which formerly se- 
 cured them from such injustice, almost destitute of support 
 from Europe, which would enable them to pay as large sums 
 to the Turks as their adversaries, sink under this wicked de- 
 ceit; while the others can command the inexhaustible resources 
 of their people, who spare no sacrifices, on the credit '>f the 
 monks, under the pretext of saving the Holy Se})ulchre and the 
 siuictuaries from destruction, but in fact to outbid the Latins 
 in bribing the Turks, and to expel them from Palestine; and to 
 put large sums of money into the hands of the Mahometans, their 
 natural ( iiemies, who know how to take advantage of their 
 prid(? and their weakness. 'I'hey always gain the victory ; they 
 live with the Turks, are their dragomans, .servants, and subjects ; 
 
in Egypt and Lybia, in 1821. 89 
 
 the Turks are always sure of their money ; the Franks on the 
 contrary, are always aliens, always suspected by them, and 
 nothing but protection from Constantinople can preserve ihem 
 The Mahometans too, derive advantages from favouring Uje. 
 Greeks and Armenians, which the Franks can never afford 
 them. They have upon an average 4000 pilgrims annually. 
 The estimate of 38,000 Spanish dollars for the tribute called 
 ghafar, which they pay, is very low, and for this the pilgrims 
 have nothing more than the permission to visit the holy places. 
 The conveyance of persons and effects is chiefly in the hands of 
 the Mahometans, who possess the greatest number of mules 
 and camels; the profits arising from the consumption of pro- 
 visions, &c. are shared between them and the Christians. To 
 this must be added, the extraordinary presents which the monks 
 themselves make at this time to the keepers of the church of 
 the Holy Sepulchre every time they open it, for the maintenance 
 of order, and to the Motsallem for the sacred fire. The ten or 
 twenty Latin pilgrims who annually visit Jerusalem, are almost 
 all poor, and provided with the necessary firmans. From 
 them, therefore, the Mahometans gain nothing. Of the small 
 sums, which the convent has to pay, the Pacha, the Motsal- 
 lem, the Cadi, the Mufti, and the keepers of the Holy Sepul- 
 chre gain but little. It is, consequently, no wonder if the 
 Latins are oppressed and the others favoured. 
 
 The x\rmenians have in Jerusalem a patriarch, an archbishop, 
 about one hundred monks, and two hundred individuals of their 
 church. Jn Bethlehem, a convent with two monks, and two fami- 
 lies ; at Rama, a convent with one monk ; at Jaffa, a convent 
 with three monks, and about fifty Christians of their sect. They 
 too frequently act in a hostile manner towards the Latins. Thus 
 the latter had formerly in the church at Bethlehem, a door 
 through the wall, which divides the principal aisle from the other 
 three parts of the cross. The Armenians closed it, and the Latins 
 remonstrated in vain against this violation of their rights, by 
 which they were cut off from the chief entrance to the sanc- 
 tuary under ground. When during the French invasion no 
 doubt was entertained of the destruction of the Latin monks, 
 who were shut up with the catholic Christians in the church of 
 the Holy Sepulchre, the Armenians were the first to take pos- 
 session of their chapels and valuable effects. But Sir Sydney 
 Smith, w^ho came from Acre to Jerusalem, and hoisted his 
 standard on the Latin convent there, saved them and all their 
 property. A few years ago the Armenians made them offers 
 of peace, and of union with the Romish church. As a reward 
 they received the chapel near the spot where the cross is said 
 to have been found. But scarcely was the confirmation come 
 Voyages and Travels, No. XLVJ. Vol. VIII. N 
 
90r Scholz's Travels 
 
 from Rome, when they separated again, still keeping the 
 chapel, which they have retained to this day. They are very 
 rich, and the alms which they receive seem to me to be more 
 considerable than those of all the other Christians. 
 
 The custom of giving alms to the Christians in Jerusalem is 
 very old. Even in the age of the apostles collections were 
 made for them among the other congregations, and we learn, 
 from Sozomenus and others, that it prevailed in later ages. 
 Charlemagne and many other princes were very liberal to them. 
 Henry VIII. in 1516, made a grant of two thousand pounds 
 annually to the Latins. In later times their chief patrons were 
 the kings of Spain, Portugal, and Naples, and the empress 
 Maria Theresa, who not only gave large sums and costly 
 utensils for the church, to the fathers of the Holy Land, but, 
 like all other Catholic princes, allowed alms to be collected for 
 them in their dominions, and thus millions flowed annually 
 from Europe to these convents. Since the second half of the 
 eighteenth century, the alms from many countries, as from 
 Austria and France, have failed ; those from Italy have gra- 
 dually decreased ; and those from Spain and Portugal are 
 irregular. 
 
 The resources of the Greek and Armenian monks are now 
 far more considerable. They send agents all over the Turkish 
 and Russian empires, to collect for the poor Christians in Je- 
 rusalem, and to preserve the church of the Holy Sepulchre 
 from being destroyed by the Turks. The profit they derive 
 from the pilgrims is still greater. It is seldom that one of them 
 leaves Jerusalem without expending ten purses (seven hundred 
 and fourteen Spanish piasters), and the most spend two hundred 
 purses and more. The cunning monks contrive, under the 
 mask of piety, to get the last farthing from their pockets, and 
 it is known that many have not kept sufficient to pay the cap- 
 tain for their voyage home. The Muscovites were particularly 
 pillaged, and what the monks did not venture to do, was com- 
 pleted by the Turks. Earnest remonstrances w^ere made ; the 
 Greek patriarch repeatedly aflirmed that he could not protect 
 them against the malice and insolence of the Turks, and thus 
 the Emperor of Russia found it necessary to establish a con- 
 sulate at Jaffa for the protection of the pilgrims. This has had 
 the advantage, that many disorders have been prevented this 
 year ; but it has increased the hatred of the Turks towards the 
 Muscovites. A Russian pilgrim has been murdered this year 
 at Tantura on his road to Jerusalem, by way of .latTa; many 
 others have been very ill used and plundered at other places. 
 This establishment of a consulate mav lead to another im- 
 portant measnre, which would be likely to put down the in- 
 
in Egypt and Lybiaf i?i 1821. 91 
 
 soleuce of the Greeks. The Russians demand a separate 
 dwelling for their pilgrims ; a convent for their clergy ; and 
 full power to celebrate mass in the holy places, according to 
 the rites of their church. The Greeks will not grant them any 
 of these points, and cannot do it without being great losers. 
 
 The Christians in Syria have always been more exposed to 
 the rapacity of the Mahometans than those in any other pro- 
 vince of the Ottoman empire ; and besides the usual oppression 
 and ill-usage under which they have always laboured, they 
 have been, in latter times, in danger of being entirely anni- 
 hilated. So long ago as 1773, Abu Dahaw had conceived such 
 a wicked project. The sultan threatened to depose him, be- 
 cause he had not for a long time sent him any money, and 
 already owed him above five millions of piasters. But he 
 came with an army to Syria, conquered Jafia and Acre, from 
 which Daher had fled with his treasures, and just as he was 
 going to plunder and destroy the convents on Mount Carmel 
 and at Nazareth, and to seize on the treasures of the temple in 
 Jerusalem, he w^as seized with a severe illness, and died on the 
 10th of June, 1777. Tortured by remorse, he is said to have 
 exclaimed, shortly before his death, " I have never done any 
 harm to the Christians!" 
 
 After the retreat of the French, the Mahometans, under 
 Ghezzar Pacha, were permitted to do as they pleased for three 
 days with the Christians and their property. Many hundreds 
 were killed or wounded, and almost all deprived of their pro- 
 perty. Since that time the wounds have not been healed, and the 
 tyranny of the Agas in the small towns falls chiefly on them. 
 Formerly a Christian could abuse or strike a Mahometan, and 
 was certain of being judged by the cadi according to equity. 
 They were on more intimate terms together, and often forgot 
 the difference of religion. Now the Mahometans look with 
 haughtiness on the Christians; the slightest affront is attended 
 with the most disagreeable consequences, and woe to the Chris- 
 tian who strikes a Mahometan. The Greeks are more intimate 
 with the Mahometans than any of the other Christians, but 
 do not on that account escape being ill-treated by them. The 
 Catholics live entirely apart from them from their youth. 
 I asked the Christians if the children did not sometimes play 
 together? They replied, " Never, lest the children should 
 learn the behaviour and bad language of the Mahometans."" 
 The Christian sects also live much apart from each other. 
 The Maronites hardly allow Catholics of a different rite, and 
 never schismatics and Mahometans, in their quarters. On the 
 other hand, the Catholics find diflTiculty in settling in villages 
 where none but schismatics reside. Their schools are always 
 
92 Scholzs Travels 
 
 separate, and mixed marriages extremely rare. I was assured 
 that the Catholic girls are extremely averse to schismatic men, 
 and I was myself witness in a place where a poor but very 
 handsome girl of the Latin church, refused to marry one of the 
 richest Greeks in the town. An oppressive law obliges the 
 Catholic Armenians to be married and buried by the schis- 
 matic priests, and to lodge with them on their pilgrimage to 
 Jerusalem. It is seldom that any one goes over to another 
 church. The Latin guardians of the convents of the Holy Land 
 think it very meritorious when they bring back a Greek to their 
 church. But here too interest has great influence. Among the 
 Bethlemites there are many who would willingly become 
 Catholics, if the convent would maintain them, and especially 
 if it would pay their portion of the taxes. The Christians 
 do not differ in their clothing from the Mahometans, only the 
 latter generally have the turban white, striped with red, a 
 shawl either party-coloured or green ; only the scherifs are 
 allowed to wear the latter; that of the Christians is usually 
 blue, grey or black. The Franks alone have a right to wear 
 a white turban ; the inhabitants of Bethlehem usurp it. The 
 Jews wear a high cap, with a white and then a grey hand- 
 kerchief round it, and a tuft of hair appears over the ears, 
 which distinguishes them from the Christians. At Jerusalem 
 the Christians cannot possess landed property. In other places 
 they have lost it. In Nazareth they have a good deal, and in 
 the Valley of Esdrelon, of which almost the fourth part be- 
 longs to the district of Nazareth, it is separated from that of 
 the Mahometans. 
 
 All the Christians in the East agree in their strict fasts, when 
 nothing of the animal kingdom is eaten with the blood warm, 
 and all food dressed in oil. The clergy live on the alms of the 
 congregation, and have no fixed income. There is much 
 analogy in their mode of service. Preaching and catechizing 
 are almost unknown to them. The mass, the prayers, and 
 hymns, are said and sung so loud that all can understand them. 
 Among the Greeks all join ; with the others the clergy sing and 
 pray, and the people respond only at times. Only the Chris- 
 tians of the Latin church hear a sermon on Sundays and 
 holidays. The smallest number perform divine service in their 
 mother tongue; the l^atins in Latin, and only detached 
 prayers, and in the mass the gospel, in Arabic; the Greek 
 monks all in Greek; but the country clergy in Syria and 
 Palestine all in Arabic ; the Maronites, ami the Catholic and 
 schismatic Syrians read mass in Syrian, but many prayers and 
 the gospel in Arabic. The Catholic Greeks use in Syria and 
 l^ilestine only the Arabic ; the Copts the Coptic and Arabic; 
 the Abyssinians the Ethiopian language. 
 
in Egypt and Lybia, i?i 1821. 93 
 
 There is a difference in the manner of fitting up their 
 churches. In those of the schismatic Greeks the high altar is 
 separated from the rest by a wooden partition. Those of the 
 other sects are nearer to the form of the Latin churches. Forms 
 and stools are unknown in the East ; but in the richer churches 
 there are carpets, upon which they sit on the ground in the 
 eastern fashion. The churches of the Latins, Armenians, and 
 Maronites are distinguished from the others by their cleanliness 
 and cheerful appearance. All their churches are crowded with 
 paintings, but the style is very different. The Latins have 
 many good paintings, especially in Bethlehem, and in their 
 other churches caricatures are rare. Those of the Greeks are 
 still quite in the Byzantine style, without any variety, except 
 those which have been sent them from Russia. Those of the 
 Armenians have a peculiar style, quite different from the By- 
 zantine. The figures are ill-shaped, but the countenances more 
 agreeable, all after one model, with pale complexions, and 
 bearing the characteristic features of their nation, among which 
 the painter seeks his Christ, Holy Virgin, and saints. In the 
 drapery they much resemble those of the Latins. The pic- 
 tures of the Syrians in the main resemble the Byzantine, 
 but are more imperfect. They frequently resemble strongly 
 marked outlines more than finished pictures. At times you 
 see among them some more like the Armenian. Those of the 
 Copts bear the peculiar character of the national physiognomy; 
 in other respects they much resemble the Byzantine school. 
 The paintings are usually on wood ; the Greeks alone employ 
 gilding. There is nothing in the composition or execution 
 of these paintings deserving of particular description. 
 
 1 conclude these remarks with the wish that the condition of 
 these Christians may be soon changed ; especially that the in- 
 decent disputes in Jerusalem may speedily be terminated ; that 
 the documents may be again carefully examined ; and each 
 party recover what belongs to it. Many abuses must be remedied. 
 The Latins set a good example : formerly the consecrated palm- 
 branches were distributed on Palm Sunday in the church ; this 
 caused violent quarrels ; it is now done in the court-yard of the 
 convent. It must be established, that all the holy places oc- 
 cupied by the Turks shall be open without restriction and ex- 
 pence to the Christians, according to the conventions. Lastly, 
 care must be taken that the Latins, as the possession of the 
 most important sanctuaries belongs to them, and they repre- 
 sent the greatest number of Christians, be provided with 
 worthy priests, who have before received a suitable education 
 in the Propaganda, and, destitute of monastic pride, live solely 
 for their duties. I mention as a model my friend Father Vito, 
 who is esteemed and beloved by Turks and Christians. 
 
94 Schulz'b' Travels 
 
 Whether it would be advisable to send secular clergy thither 
 may be reasonably doubted. The Turks are accustomed to the 
 dress of these monks; they know that they are poor; the 
 monks think it a point of honour in their order to preserve the 
 Holy Land and the sanctuaries from total desolation. Secular 
 priests may also fall into the faults above-mentioned. Pope 
 Martin V. refused their petition to guard the Holy Sepulchre, 
 instead of the Franciscans, and he confirmed this for ever ia 
 the Bull Salutare JStudium. 
 
 The Festival of Easier at Jerusalem. 
 
 It is natural that the festival of Easter should be celebrated 
 at Jerusalem with great solemnity. The pilgrims generally 
 arrive from a week to four months before it, and return home 
 immediately after. This year the several parties looked for- 
 ward to it with a degree of apprehension, because it happened 
 with them all at the same time, and each is then afraid of being 
 ill-treated by the others. Each desires to have much time for 
 the performance of the ceremonies, and contentions are un- 
 avoidable. 
 
 This year there was a most violent dispute respecting the 
 grand procession in the evening of Good Friday. The Latins 
 had hitherto been allowed four hours and a half for it. It was 
 proposed that they should henceforth be limited to four hours. 
 The Turks decided that the old custom should be retained. 
 I attended the rites performed by all the parties, with exem- 
 plary patience, and cannot but lament that the Latins alone 
 celebrate the festival in a manner worthy of the occasion. 
 Even when we have made due allowance for the difference of 
 the Oriental character, there is still so great a want of de- 
 corum in the manner in which the clergy behave at the cere- 
 monies, in the rude and unnatural cries, especially of the 
 Greeks, in the remaining in the church at night, in which many 
 improprieties take place; and lasciviousness, especially at 
 Christmas in Bethlehem, assumes an appearance of sanctity, 
 in the holding a market in the church ; in the most disagreeable 
 deafening noise, continued often for hours together, which is 
 produced by striking a long board hanging loose, or on a piece 
 of metal, and in the crowding and fighting of the pilgrims, 
 who, as it were, storm the chapels, as the poor do a baker's 
 shop in a famine, that I was often determined never to attend 
 them again. The most striking part of the ceremonies are 
 their processions: and among the Latins the high mass, at which 
 the guardian ofTiciates with great dignity. The communion on 
 Holy Thursday is very solemn. According to a custom, which 
 
mi Egypt and Lybia, in 1821. 95 
 
 has been retained from the primitive ages of Christianity, a 
 quantity of provisions is brought by the Christians on this day, 
 and distributed by the fathers among the poor. 
 
 It deserves to be noticed, that during the mass on Maundy 
 Thursday, after the lessons have been sung, the Guardian 
 kneels before the Holy Sepulchre, and with closed doors re- 
 peats a prayer, while very edifying hymns are sung in the 
 choir. After the lapse of five mmutes, the doors suddenly fly 
 open. The singing of the mass on Maundy Thursday might 
 be very moving, if they had but good voices. The procession 
 on the evening of Good Friday, in which all the instruments, 
 typifying the passion of Christ, are carried by different monks, 
 is the most solemn. Sermons are preached at the same time, 
 which refer to the passion or death of our Saviour. 
 
 If the most of the seven sermons in the seven principal 
 chapels in the church, were delivered in the Arabic, and thus 
 made generally useful, this would be a very good arrange- 
 ment ; but two in the Spanish language, which nobody under- 
 stood, are useless, and four in Italian, by which few persons 
 could profit, superfluous ; that preached in Arabic by the 
 Father Superior was listened to with great attention. The end 
 of this procession is the signal for the processions and ceremo- 
 nies, which continue through the night, of the Armenians, Sy- 
 rians, Copts, and Greeks, which last, being by far the most 
 •numerous in clergy and pilgrims, make the most striking ap- 
 pearance. In the same manner the end of the high mass on 
 Easter Eve is the signal for the most scandalous abuses of 
 the church by the schismatic Christians, who conduct them- 
 selves in the most riotous manner. The Mahometan door- 
 keepers, and the Janissaries of the different convents, strike 
 the good pilgrims on the head, face, and leet, at pleasure. 
 They beat and throw each other on the ground, and run to the 
 Sepulchre, all with the wildest cries. This is the preparation to 
 receive the holy fire. At one o"'clock the Motsallem of Jerusa- 
 lem appears, and takes his usual place in the gallery of the 
 Latins. At half-past one the Greek bishop, who is the de- 
 puty of the Patriarch, and called bishop of the holy fire, and 
 who has the reputation of extraordinary piety, the procurator, 
 and the Armenian bishop, go into the Holy Sepulchre, pray 
 for half an hour with closed doors, then present the holy fire 
 through the two lateral openings, to the pilgrims, who quickly 
 distribute it all over the church by their wax tapers; and lastly, 
 the Greek bishop carries it into the principal aisle, or division 
 of the Greeks. 
 
 This year the Armenians had a violent dispute with the 
 Greeks on account of the Syrian Bishop and the Coptic 
 
96 Scholz's Travels ^ 
 
 Guardian, who also desired to be adniitled into the chapel of 
 the Holy Sepulchre., to receive th(^ holy fire. The Greeks re- 
 plied, that such innovations could not be allowed. Either the 
 ancient custom must be observed, by which only the Armenian 
 Bishop could be admitted to this honour, or else the later 
 orders of the firmans must be followed, by which first the 
 Greeks, and then the Armenians, were to receive the holy fire 
 in the chapel. The Armenians, on their side, appealed to the 
 Motsallem, and depending on forty Russian pilgrims of their 
 church, threatened to complain to the Russian emperor. But 
 the Russian consul rejected their appeal, and the Armenians 
 said no more. 
 
 In the first ages of Christianity, it was customary for the 
 Christians to pass the night of Good Friday in the church 
 without light, and on the Saturday, to celebrate in common the 
 whole service of the sabbath. When they went to rekindle 
 their lamps, the patriarch, the clergy, the magistrates, and 
 other Christians, made a procession to light the lamps of the 
 Holy Sepulchre ; the miraculous fire appeared ; and this mi- 
 racle is said to have continued till the taking of Jerusalem, by 
 Godfrey of Bouillon. 
 
 In the 13th century, when the other Christian sects again 
 assembled round the Holy Sepulchre, the Syrians and Abys- 
 sinians were the first who imitated this miraculous fire for 
 the sake of the numerous pilgrims. Afterwards the Georgians 
 shared the honour with them ; and after their fall, the Greeks 
 and Armenians undertook to receive the sacred fire in the cha- 
 pel, and to distribute it to the other Christians. 
 
 The Catholics do not believe in the miraculous origin of it, 
 but are of opinion that it is made by the Greek bishop, and is 
 communicated very rapidly, because the wicks of the tapers 
 given to the pilgrims are dipped in spirits of wine. The schis- 
 matic Christians are perfectly convinced of its supernatural 
 origin and effects. P^very one rubs himself with it; and it is 
 sent by expresses to the churches in Jaffa, Acre, &c. The 
 Greeks, Syrians, and Copts, conclude their pilgrimage by 
 going to the Jordan to bathe. The Armenians for the most 
 part content themselves with washing at Jerusalem, with 
 water fetched from the river. The Latins have entirely discon- 
 tinued this journey for many years, because they had many 
 disagreeable scenes, and it generally happened that some of the 
 monks were severely beaten. We set out on the^O'th of April, 
 accompanied by the Motsallem, with Turkish music. We met 
 some caravans returning which set out the day before. Those 
 which set out this day, about one thousand eight hundred per- 
 sons, encamped in the plain of Jericho, and set out at two 
 
in Egypt and Lubia^ w 1821. 9T 
 
 o'clock iu the morning for the Jordan. Every one washed or 
 bathed, but observed the strictest decorum ; filled his bottle 
 with water, and his pockets with pebbles from the bed of the 
 Jordan. They then all returned cheerfully under the protec- 
 tion of the Motsallem, after paying the ghafar (tribute). At 
 this year's festival of Easter there were one thousand four hun- 
 dred Armenians, one thousand two hundred Greeks, thirty 
 Georgians, three hundred Moscovites, sixty Copts, fifteen Syri- 
 ans, one Abyssinian, twenty Oriental Catholics of the Greek 
 and Armenian churches, four Maronites, and fifteen Franks. 
 
 The Ghafar. 
 
 The ghafar is a tribute which the Mahometans think them- 
 selves entitled to demand of the Christians for permitting them, 
 who are infidels, to pass throu2:h the countries belonging to the 
 Faithful. This tribute is particularly introduced in Syria and 
 Palestine, and in many places is so established by custom, that 
 it is regarded as a legal tax, and he who attempts to evade it 
 is in danger of being plundered or murdered. Only such 
 Franks as have a firman from the Sultan, from the Pacha, or 
 his Motsallem, declaring them free, are legally exempt from it. 
 Most of them, by the intervention of their respective consuls, 
 obtain from the Motsallem of Jaffa the necessary passports, one 
 to the governor of JRama, from whom he receives another; 
 and one also for the entrance into the Holy Sepulchre. 
 
 Ghafar is paid for the first time on coming out of Egypt, in 
 Arish, on the frontiers of Syria. When we rode by, the Sheiks 
 did not venture to demand it of us, because we were recom- 
 mended b}^ Mahomet Ali Pacha ; they however asked for a 
 present. Khan Jouness, the frontier tow^n in Syria, is the se- 
 cond place where it is demanded. We appealed in vain to our 
 firmans ; we were obliged to use force, and to repel, with arms 
 in our hands, a sv.arm of Arabs who pursued us, and to put 
 them to flight. 
 
 At Gaza, the only duty is upon merchandize. We paid 
 nothing for our trunks, as they contained only our travelling 
 equipage and no goods. At Jaffa six piasters must be paid, 
 at Kama seven, at Kariataneb seven, at Jerusalem three ; 
 and for the entrance into the Holy Sepulchre, twenty-three. 
 Franks, without firmans, pay thirty-three piasters every time 
 they go into this church ; one para for the entrance mto the Holy 
 Sepulchre; after the sacred fire, for the first few days, from 
 one hundred and fifty purses to ten piasters, afterwards fifteen 
 para; for the journey to the Jordan after Easter eighteen pias- 
 ters ; for the departure from Jerusalem, seven piasters ; in Ka- 
 riataneb seven piasters ; in Rama seven ; before Jaffa tbre?^ in 
 
 Voyages and Travels, No. XL VI. Vol. VHL o 
 
9S Schoh's Traveh 
 
 Jaffa, on departing, seven piasters. On the road from Acre 
 by Nazareth and Nablous, you have to pay in Dschenin three 
 piasters, in Nabloiis seven, on deparring three, in Suwije 
 three, in Schafat seven, and in .Jerusalem as above. 
 
 Besides this legal ghafar, a similar tribute is demanded by 
 the Mahometans in many other places. On our journey from 
 Jaffa to Jerusalem nobody ventured to demand it, because we 
 were accompar^ied by a soldier of the iMotsallem of Jaffa: 
 for a large company it is advantageous to have such a one. 
 The presents they expect are indeed great; but persons are 
 then not exposed to be ill-treated by these privileged highway- 
 men. The p'.nglish pay it, though they are generally provided 
 with firmans. This liberality, by which they also seek to ^eX 
 a good name among the Arabs, has done much injury to less 
 opulent travellers; for my part I never paid it. In Dschenin, 
 and in Nablous, 1 got rid of the demand, by appealini^ to my 
 firman. On my departure from the latter place they at- 
 tempted to compel me ; but I hastened to Ibrahim, the go- 
 vernor, who on reading the firman, dismissed mo with kindness, 
 and declared me exempt from payment. But the most dan- 
 gerous adventure in this respect occurred at Suwije. On en- 
 tering the narrow valley, on the right hand of which this nest 
 lies, four fellows, armed with stones, lay in wait for me, and 
 threatened to kill me if 1 did not immediately give up my 
 property. I replied that I travelled under the protection of the 
 Pachas of Acre and Damascus, and of the Motsallem of Na- 
 blous, but all was in vain ; they seized my horse's bridle, I 
 drove them off with my pistols; they stoned it — I was forced 
 to submit to this for fear the other inhabitants of the village, 
 to whom they cried for assistance, should come up ; besides, it 
 rained so hard, and my whole body was so benumbed, that I 
 was scarcely able to urge my horse forwards. They were at 
 last tired of waiting in this bad weather, and contented them- 
 selves with a trifle which my guide gave them But he had 
 scarcely got rid of them, when another came up and demanded 
 the ghafar. I gave him a peremptory refusal. He threatened 
 and demanded my firmans. This I refused, as I knew before- 
 hand that he would tear them. These robbers have often 
 done this, even with firmans from the Sultan, v/hich the 
 other Arabs always regard with the greatest respect. Hecalledi 
 for help, but no one came except the four banditti. It now 
 suddenly began to thunder and lighten, and the rain increased, 
 which made them all retire. At the end of this valley, which 
 is two leagues in length, another Arab was sitting with his 
 musket in his hand, and two others w( re seen at a distance. 
 He demanded the ghal'ar, if we wer(; bound to |)ay it, for he 
 
in Egypt and Lybia^ in 1821. 99 
 
 had a right to ask it ; but nobody ansv*'ered him, upon which 
 he arose and threatened us. Upon this two Sheiks, who by 
 this time had joited us, replied that he had nothing to claim; 
 that they were inhabitants of the country, and good Mussel- 
 men, but that 1 was a Hend (Indian). He then quietly sat 
 down again ; the storm increased ; and I believe that all these 
 people knew of my coming, otherwise they would certainly not 
 have exposed themselves to the inclemency of the weather. In 
 Sendschel no demand was made. I went into the house of a 
 Greek, the only Christian in this great village. I here dried 
 my clothes, which were quite wet, and warmed myself at 
 the fire. On the following day I travelled without any in- 
 terruption, for nobody met me on this interesting road. It 
 was not till I arrived near Schafat, that I saw four fellows 
 hasten towards me, who I feared intended to plunder us. I 
 pointed out the danger t;o my mule-driver, and ordered him to 
 drive quickly, but our mules were obstinate and the danger 
 was too near. Before they came up to us, they raised a great 
 cry, and commanded us to stop, which we did not do. They 
 approached us, armed with muskets, swords, and pistols. I 
 was extremely alarmed, remote from all assistance, not a soul 
 near, not a village, except the one half a league distant, from 
 vv'hich these robbers came. I renounced all hope of saving my 
 life. They commenced with disarming ray mule-driver, and 
 beat him severely. They seized my bridle and threatened me 
 with their sabres if I made any resistance. 1 appealed to my 
 firmans, entreated," promised them presents, but all in vain, and 
 they conducted us to the neighbouring village. We could not 
 obtain an explanation of their conduct ; they took it for granted 
 that we knew the reason of it. They only affirmed that they 
 were right, we were impostors, they acted openly, and we 
 tried secretly to evade the laws. We at last arrived at the vil- 
 lage, where 1 met with an Albanian, a soldier of the Motsallem 
 of Jerusalem, whom 1 immediately requested to protect me 
 against these robbers. He encouraged me and said he would 
 accompany me. We then proceeded to the second part of the 
 village, situated on the main road from Nablous to Jerusalem, 
 where there is a toll-house. My Arabians first entered 
 the apartment, round which, five and thirty Arabs were 
 sitting engaged in earnest conversation. They here accused 
 rae of having left the high road to avoid the toll-house, 
 and not pay the tribute. They had run after me they said, 
 and delivered me to justice. It is true, I said, I had a 
 firman, but this they did not believe, for, in that case, I 
 should not have secretly left the main road. They all looked 
 at me, and 1 replied that it was untrue that I had intended to 
 
100 Sc/iolzs Travels^ 
 
 evade a legjal tribute; that I was ignorant of this road, as well 
 as of the (oil-house; that they were equally unknown to my 
 mule-driver, who had never made this journe)' but once, and 
 not in the main road ; he had therefore been unjustly beaten. 
 1 stated that I had desired him to conduct me to some ruins, 
 and that he had done so, and contented himself with bringiniij 
 me on the way to Jerusalem, but not into the main road which 
 we had followed before; that I wasa Frank, and had therefore 
 to pay no tribute, and had besides been dispensed from it by a 
 firman. Upon this I gave my firman to the Sheik, who had it 
 read aloud. They now treated me with great civili'y, pro- 
 nounced me free of the ghafar, and begged me to tell the Mot- 
 sallem of Jerusalem, that I had been with them, and had been 
 very well received. I now, at length, comprehended the 
 meaning of all the expressions which had bet'ore so much 
 alarmed me, when they repeatedly affirmed that we were 
 cheats; they looked upon us in the same light as many Chris- 
 tians and Jews who go far about to avoid this toll-house, where^j 
 every one has to pay seven piasters. A short time before the 
 attack, we met a Jew, who, doubtless, evaded it, and was 
 pleased to meet with companions. / 
 
 s 
 
 The Inhabitants of Palesthte, Toimis and T^illages in the 
 Pachalik of Acre, and the District of Nablous and Kuddes. 
 
 Syria w^as formerly divided into the five Pachaliks of Aleppo, 
 Damascus, Trabolus, Saida, and Gaza. Daher took from 
 the Pacha of Saida the land of the Druses, and also the whole 
 coast from Nahr el Kelb to Carmel, and confine<:l him to Saida, 
 from which he likewise expelled him in the sequel. After the 
 fall of Daher, Ghezzar Pacha restored the ancient Pachalik, 
 united to it Safad, Tiberias, Balbeck, and Csesarea, took Hei- 
 rout from the Maronites, and transferred his residence to Acre. 
 Afterwards, Jaffa, Gaza, Kama, and Nazareth, were annexed 
 to it, and on the appointment of Abdallah, Pacha of Tripolis, 
 to the dignity of Pacha of Acre, the Pachalik of Tripolis, 
 where the mountain chain on the Orontes forms the frontier, 
 so that the Pachalik of Acre is now one of the largest and 
 richest in the Torkish empire. The Pacha annually pays to ' 
 Constantinople, about two millions of Turkish piasters, be- 
 sides the presents which he has to make to his patrons in (he 
 divan. The rest of Palestine fell to the Pacha of Damascus, 
 under whom it still is, though the Christians are very desirous 
 of having one Pacha of Palestine, and have partitioned to that 
 elTectat Constantinople, hoping that this would prove a check 
 on the ill-treatment and extortion to which they were exposed. 
 
in Egypt a?id Lybia, //i 1821. 101 
 
 They always received for answer, that the Pacha of Damascus 
 bad need of the revenues of this city to defray the expences of 
 the caravans with provisions, which always go to meet the pil- 
 grims on their return from Mecca. The last Pacha had been 
 recalled towards the beginning of 1821. His place was sup- 
 plied by a late Grand Vizier. At the time of my leaving Syria, 
 it was generally affirmed that he had brought two great men 
 from Constantinople with him, one of whom was intended for 
 Pacha of Acre, and that Abdallah had fallen into disgrace be- 
 cause he did not send enough money to the divan. 
 
 Abdallah is devout, not without talents, but guided by 
 counsellors, who, under the pretext of religion, endeavour to 
 do all possible injury to persons who are not of the Mahometan 
 religion. It was by their influence that Hajim, his powerful 
 minister, a Jew, was strangled on the 24th of August, 1820. 
 This able statesman, for twenty years sole minister in Acre, 
 lost one eye throui^h Solimau Pacha, on his pilgrimage to 
 Mecca, and as the latter owed the Pachalik to him, he also, 
 by his great credit, got Abdallah, Pacha of Tripolis, to be ap- 
 pointed Pacha of Acre. One of his brothers is equally power- 
 ful, who is minister to the Pacha of Damascus, their native 
 city. A third brother is first secretary to the Reis Effendi at 
 Constantinople. The Pachalik of Acre enjoys this advantage 
 over others, that its Pacha generally holds his place for life, 
 while most of the others retain it for only one year, which time 
 is often prolonged, but often abridged. Abdallah endeavours 
 to show his love of justice by returning their lands to those who 
 lost them under Ghezzar, especially during the French invasion. 
 But he indemnifies himself tenfold, by seizing the possessions of 
 the little Emirs or Sheiks on the mountain of the Druses, who 
 were hitherto independent or only tributary. Three of them 
 have already become the victims of his tyranny, and great 
 fermentation on both sides of Lebanon is the consequence. 
 Who knows whether the libert}' which these good mountaineers 
 have preserved for centuries, may not be destroyed by these 
 events? Twenty years ago they were deprived of Beirout, 
 their sea-port, by the despotic Ghezzar, and now their very vitals 
 are attacked. The consequences to the Christians in Syria, 
 w'ho, in times of persecution, always found a refuge in the 
 mountain, are incalculable. But, however cowardly they 
 may appear to have become, danger will unite them ; the fire 
 kindled in the spring of 1821, will spread through Lebanon 
 and defy the pretensions of the tyrant of Acre, if he should con- 
 tinue to demand more tribute than their ancestors paid, to de- 
 stroy institutions which centuries have sanctioned, or should 
 he attempt to deprive them of their arms, which the Orientals 
 
102 Schoh's Travels ' 
 
 regard as their greatest treasures. When I visited Lebanou, 
 the fermentation was j^reater than ever. The treasurer had lied 
 with large sums, which he had extorted from the Maronites and 
 Druses in tho name of the Pacha, who now required them to pay 
 these extraordinary contributions over again, which tliey were 
 unabU^ to do. A body of troops, stationed at Saida, was to ter- 
 rify them, but it was in vain. At the beginning of AJay all the 
 Christians in Syria were disarmed. 
 
 'J'lie number of inhabitants in Kesrouan, is estimated at 
 200,000, and on the mountain of the Druses, at 160,000. The 
 whole coast from Khan Jouness, to Nahr el Kelb, and also 
 Trabolus and Latakia, and the whole of Galilee, is the pro- 
 perty of the Pacha; it contains the towns of Gaza, Jatl'a, Acre, 
 Tiberias, Sur, .Saida, Beirout, I'ripolis, and Latakia. 
 
 Gaza lies in a very fruitful tract, a quarter of a league from 
 the sea. Olives, iigs, oranges, &c. grow in abundance; the 
 houses are chiellv built of hewn stones, the remnants of ancient 
 building?, and are very low, so that the town covers a great 
 extent of ground in proportion to the number of the inhabitants, 
 which is onl}- six thousand, all Mahometans, except three 
 hundred schismatic Greeks. The streets are narrow, unpaved, 
 and crooked. There is a good deal of communication in the 
 town, from tlie trade by land between Egypt and Syria, the 
 goods being conveyed by camels, of which many of the inha- 
 bitants have large herds. 
 
 Jaffa is on the sea side, and has a port, which is, however, 
 very unsafe, and in winter dangerous. The town is small, 
 situated on an eminence which commands the whole surround- 
 ing country. The only broad street is that next the sea, in 
 which are the Bazars, which are much richer than those of 
 (iaza. There is a considerable trade into the interior of Pales- 
 tine, but there are seldom more than ten vessels here in summer, 
 and in winter none. Only just after Easter the number is 
 greater. The lOnglish have a vice-consul, the Austrians and 
 (iermans an agent, both of Jailii, the Russians a consul, who 
 has been appointed within these twelve months, chiefly on ac- 
 count of the pilgrims. The affairs of the French, Spaniards, 
 and Italians, are managed by the procurator of the convent 
 of the Holy liand. There are about three hundred Christians 
 of the Latin, and three hundred and fifty of the Greek church, 
 and three thousand Mahometans in Jatla. 
 
 iiama is in a \evy fruitful plain four leagues from the sea. 
 No city in Syria has sullered more from the French invasion 
 than I^ama. There were several French factories, which had 
 ahuost the exclusive trade with nuanufactured goods to Gaza^ 
 Jerusalem, and Nablous. Now only one monk resides in tlie 
 
in Egypt and Lybia, in 1821. 103 
 
 hospital of the fathers of the Holy Land. All the other Chris- 
 tians of the Latin church have either been murdered, or have 
 lost their property and fled to Jaifa, Jerusalem, or Acre. The 
 Greeks are above five hundr'ed. 
 
 Acre is the residence of the Pacha of the whole coast of 
 Syria. It lies on the sea, in a fertile but almost uncultivated 
 plain, three or four leagues broad. The harbour is protected 
 from tbe wtst and north-west winds by some houses built on 
 rocks in the sea ; but it is small, and choaked with sand, so 
 that it is fit only for a fevv'^ small vessels : the others Heat Haifa. 
 All the streets of Acre are narrov/, ill paved, and dark, except 
 the bazar. The houses are ill built. The town is surrounded 
 with a wall and ditch, and having only one gate, it is easy to 
 take note of those who come in and go oat. No strangers can 
 enter till application has been made to the Pacha for permis- 
 sion, for which they generally have to wait an hour at the gate. 
 There are four richly furnished bazars, the handsomest of which 
 is near the Pacha's residence ; it was built by his predecessor. 
 It is intended to add a large khan, and the houses have been 
 already pulled down, and the work commenced. Acre has 
 from 12 to J 5,01)0 inhabitants. The great majority are Ma- 
 hometans, and have four mosques, one of which, lately finished, 
 is among the handsomest in the Turkish empire. A magnifi- 
 cent bath, and a library, are attached to it. 
 
 Opposite to it is the residence of the Pacha, an irregular 
 building, of which the harem is, as usual, the handsome.^t part. 
 Cannon are planted in the court-yard, and it has a garden, the 
 only one in this small and crowded town. The other inha- 
 bitants are, 800 Greek Catholics, 80 Latins, 800 schismatic 
 Greeks, 80 Maronites, and 800 Jews. Each of the Christian 
 communities has a church. The Latins, besides their parish 
 church, which is a neat plain edifice, near the sea, have a 
 chapel in their convent, and had formerly a very handsome 
 little church, with marble walls and pillars; but, because it 
 was higher than other buildini2;s, Soliraan Pacha ordered the 
 roof to be taken otf, in spite of the remonstrances of the French 
 consul, who used it as his private chapel. It now lies in ruins. 
 The charch of the schismatic Greeks is the largest, and near 
 the convent, where their bishop resides. 
 
 Almost the whole trade is in the hands of the Pacha and of the 
 Austrian consul, who is also Russian vice-consul. They are 
 owners of several ships : they purchase the oil of Samaria and 
 the cotton of Galilee for exportation, and sell, on the other 
 hand, manufactures in the country. 
 
 The chief trade of Palestine is with Egypt. Above two 
 hundred vessels arrive from that country annually at Jaffa, and 
 
104 Scholz's Tret vela 
 
 still more at Acre, laden with rice, linen, sugar, some fruits, 
 and manufactures. Palestine export^, oil, olives, cotton, to- 
 bacco, pipe-heads, earthenware, soap, and, in productive sea- 
 sons, corn. The soap manufactories are numerous, and the 
 soap much celebrated on account of the good potashes obtained 
 from the plants of Arabia. 
 
 The difference in the kinds of money current in the Turkish 
 empire, is a great impediment to commerce. For a Spanish 
 dollar you receive in Egypt twelve piasters; in Jerusalem, 
 seven and a half; in the sea ports, from Gaza to Acre, eight ; 
 from Sur to Trabolus, eight and a half; in the rest of Turkey, 
 seven piasters. The great difference arises from their coining in 
 Egypt piasters which are not equal in value to other Turkish 
 piasters (properly an ideal coin). European gold always 
 loses considerably in Turkey. 
 
 Nazareth is at the foot of a declivity, between mountains 
 from north to south : the streets are crooked, the houses low , 
 chiefly of stone: there is a Latin convent, four churches, and one 
 mosque. No Jews are ever allowed to show themselves here. 
 The convent is the cleanest and richest in the Holy Land, 
 possessing gardens, lands, and houses, with shops. Each of 
 these shops is let for two piasters; the Pacha demands four 
 for his. Some applicants, willing to outbid each other, having 
 offered four to the fathers also, the guardian answered " La 
 JMadonna no vuol piiC — (The virgin will have no more.) 
 Many old men so related to me, with emotion, this simple an- 
 swer. The church is spacious, and tastefully decorated. It 
 consists of three parts ; the church itself, in which there are j 
 seven altars, and paintings of subjects taken from scripture ; 
 the sanctuary, to which you descend by seventeen steps, and 
 the choir of the fathers over it, with stairs to each side of the 
 entrance into the sanctuary. The Latins are about 800 ; the 
 schismatic Greeks 12U0. Their church was built about seventy 
 yearsago, in the usual Greek form. Formerly, they had no church 
 at Nazareth, till they obtained permission to build one, through 
 the intercession ol" the Latins : but they were obliged to erect 
 it 200 paces from the town. The Catholic Greeks, 200 in 
 number, performed divine service in a church belonging to the 
 Latins. The Maronites, 250 in number, have a church of their 
 own. The Mahometans are under HOO, and their mosque lately 
 built. The whole amount ol" the inhabitants is 3000. 
 
 Tiberias, on the west bank of the sea of Galilee, is sur- 
 rounded with w alls ; the houses are for the most part miserable 
 huts, excepting the castle, the residence of the Motsallem, and 
 the new house of the former Austrian consul at Aleppo, who is 
 resolved to spend the rest of his days here. The inhabitants 
 
m Egypt a?id Lybia, in \S2l. ]05 
 
 are partly Greek Catholics (about 300), partly Turks, and 
 partly Jews, chiefly foreigners, especially Poles, who almost 
 ail live on alms. 1 was moved with pity when I walked about 
 the quarter of the Jews. Ragged figures, in dirty, wretched, 
 half ruined houses, are now the only population of this spot, 
 which was once the resort of many thousand students. I 
 visited the synagogue of the German Jews, which I found, 
 though in a better condition than that of the Oriental Jews, 
 'like it, empty, without any ornament, and but a few books on 
 the benches. I saw the synagogue of the Portuguese, which 
 is rather larger and handsomer, and may be best compared 
 with ours in Europe. I examined their libraries, and besides 
 some MSS. of the fifteenth century, found only Hebrew and 
 Rabbinical books, printed in Italy, Germany, Amsterdam, 
 Lisbon, and Constantinople, which had been brought by the 
 Jews. The children and adults were employed in some schools 
 in learning the elements of reading and writing, in others with 
 the Talmud. 
 
 Sur is a little walled town on the sea, but its port is not 
 much frequented. The country next the town is sandy, and it 
 is about a quarter of a league to the east that the celebrated 
 fertile tract commences. The inhabitants are three thousand, 
 including one thousand five hundred Catholic Greeks, with an 
 archbishop, and three hundred schismatics. Each of these two 
 parties has a church ; that of the Catholics is large, and 
 simply ornamented. 
 
 Saida, formerly the residence of the Pacha, has lofty walls 
 on the land side. The harbour, like most of the others, is 
 choaked up with sand. The bazar is extensive, and though 
 Saida has lost much by the removal of the Pacha's residence 
 to Acre, it is still very lively, because part of the trade from 
 the mountain of the Druses passes through it. Formerly there 
 were many French commercial houses, of which only two re- 
 main. The inhabitants are chiefly Mahometans. The whole 
 number is eight thousand, includingfive hundred Greek Catho- 
 lics, four hundred and fifty Maronites, four hundred schismatic 
 Greeks, and eighty Jews. 
 
 Reirout lies on a plain ; the harbour is sandy and small, but 
 there is a large bay a league to the north, to which ships resort. 
 There are in the neighbourhood many gardens, planted with 
 vines and mulberry-trees. At a distance are groves of fir- 
 trees, which are said greatly to injiprove the otherwise bad air. 
 The town is extensive; the bazar large and rich. It is well 
 situated for trade; that of Damascus, the Kesrouan, and the 
 mountain of the Druses, being chiefly carried on through it. 
 It has about ten thousand inhabitants, of v*hom four thousand 
 Voyages and Travels, Xo. XLVJ. Vol. VIII. P 
 
J 06 Scholzs Travels 
 
 are Turks; almost all the rest Maronites, except about fifty 
 Franks, one hundred Jews, some schismatic and Catholic 
 Greeks, and a good many Druses. About five thousand people 
 daily come from the mountain to the city to trade. The 
 Austrians have a consul, who is also Russian consul ; the 
 French and English each an agent. 
 
 Tripolis lies on the sea; has eight thousand inhabitants, 
 chiefly Maronites, one hundred Franks, several convents and 
 consuls. It is not so well situated for trade, yet it is more 
 lively than Latakia, through which the greater part of the 
 traffic from the sea to Aleppo is carried on. 
 
 Each of these cities has a Motsallem, or governor, ap- 
 pointed by the Pacha of Acre, and generally changed every 
 year ; a commander of the garrison, consisting in Nazareth, 
 Tiberias, and Sur, of fifty men ; in Acre, of four hundred ; and 
 in the others, of two hundred men. Receivers of the taxes are 
 appointed out of the different religious parties, who pay them 
 to the secretary of the Motsallem. The taxes are levied on the 
 male inhabitants above twelve years of age, according to their 
 ability, from thirty to three hundred Turkish piasters. These re- 
 gular and pretty equitably distributed taxes, are less burthen- 
 some than the extraordinary imposts on the birth of the 
 Sultan, his marriages, the marriage of the Pacha, &c., the 
 amount of which is fixed by the Pacha. The towns, which 
 have gates and walls, (all except Gaza and Nazareth) are shut 
 up at night, and the keys carried to the governor, without 
 whose permission the gates cannot be opened. 
 
 In each city there is also a cadi, sent from Constantinople, 
 who administers justice in the town and neighbourhood. 
 
 These Motsallems have under them the villages in the plain 
 between the Mediterranean and the territory of the Pacha of 
 Damascus, the desert of Arabia, the mountains of Halil, 
 Kuddes, Nablous, and the Jordan, the sea of Galilee, and 
 some villages on the sea between Sur and Beirout, Trabolus, 
 and Mintaburg. They are mostly small, inhabited by from 
 twenty to three hundred families, who chiefly subsist by 
 agriculture and breeding cattle. The houses are chiefly built of 
 black earih, in the form of a cone, very small, and so low that 
 one must creep into them. The inhabitants are in general very 
 poor ; the women in blue shifts, with a handkerchief on the head 
 falling down behind. The men miserably clothed, but in dif- 
 ferent fashions and colours. The long Oriental dress is seen 
 every where, but only worn by the rich. In the fine valliesof 
 Galilee I saw many tents of the Arabs, who feed their horses 
 on those luxuriant but uncultivated fields. 
 
 The dirt, the vermin, and the smoke, make their houses ex- 
 tremely disagreeable, and I have often been obliged to repuhe 
 
in Egypt and Lybia, i?i 1821. 107 
 
 the good-natured importunity of the Arabs. In the towns the 
 houses are chiefly of sfone, one story high, with many apart- 
 ments. In the principal towns, as Acre, Jerusalem, and Na- 
 blous, there are also large houses, with seats on both sides of 
 the entrance, a court-yard with a piazza round it, several 
 rooms, and a handsome division for the harem. Many dwel- 
 lings are made in some villages in the caves of the mountains, 
 which are particularly numerous in Judea. 
 
 The population of all Syria may be estimated at three mil- 
 lions. It appears less because the villages and towns are not 
 considerable, the statements given by the inhabitants low, and 
 the sum paid for the poll-tax small. But when we consider 
 that twenty or more persons often sleep in a small hut ; that 
 the inhabitants generally count only the males, and therefore 
 the women and children must be added ; and that the poll-tax 
 is paid only by males between the age of twelve and fifty 
 years, our estimate v/ill not be thought too high. The 
 Pachalick contains perhaps a third of the above-mentioned 
 number. 
 
 The ten villages on the mountains between Halil and Rama, 
 have also lately become tributary to the Pacha of Acre. The 
 men of these villages, amounting to about three thousand, are 
 robust, warlike, savage, rapacious, and always armed. Fifty 
 years ago they could with impunity defeat and kill the Pacha 
 of Damascus, who attempted to subdue them with an army. 
 At that time they were allied with many other villages between 
 Halil and Gaza; but the latter have since been gradually subdued 
 by the Motsallemof Gaza; yet they continued to make war on 
 the Motsallem of Jaffa, and to attack every year the inhabitants 
 of the plain, till a few years ago, when their Sheik Elazasi, 
 generally residing in Talsafi, was made prisoner. He was kept 
 half a prisoner at Acre, till Abdallah Pacha released him about 
 a year ago, with a present of some clothes, at the request of 
 Abugos, the chief of another tribe, who was formerly at 
 war with them, bat is now become their friend, and on the 
 promise of the Sheik that the villages should remain tranquil. 
 
 In the same manner the villages under Abugos are likewise 
 bound in some degree to the Pacha of Acre. The country is 
 in the middle between Jerusalem and Rama, and the chief 
 seat is Kariataneb (St. Jeremiah.) This Sheik is less powerful 
 by the number of his subjects than by the advantageous posi- 
 tion of his territory among mountains. Most of the places 
 are built on mountains that are nearly inaccessible. This tribe is 
 notorious for its ill treatment of the Christian pilgrims and the 
 Jews. The road from Jaffa to Jerusalem passes by Kariataneb, 
 the chief seat of these privileged banditti, which no pilgrim veu- 
 
108 Scholz's Travels 
 
 tures to avoid without exposing himself to the greatest ill- 
 usage, and indeed cannot well as^oid, on account of the steep 
 mountains. There he has to pay seven piasters for himself, 
 and two for his baggage. This toll or ghafar is according to 
 their language legal. Hundreds who were unable to pay, 
 have been here wounded or even murdered. The convents at 
 •Jerusalem are especial objects of their extortion. Besides the 
 usual payment that they have to make Abugos for suffering 
 their pilgrims and provisions to pass, he daily makes new 
 demands on them. He pays annually to the Pacha of Acre 
 from thirty to forty purses (five hundred Turkish piasters each); 
 to the pacha of Damascus, forty purses, and large presents 
 to the governors of Jerusalem and Jaffa, and to several Sheiks 
 in Jericho on the east bank of the Jordan, and others. 
 
 Though his revenue is large (above ninety thousand piasters), 
 he affirms that he has little left for himself, being obliged to 
 make large presents of shawls, horses, &c. to those who aid 
 him in his robberies. He is intimately connected with the 
 Sheiks on the Dead Sea and the Jordan, without whose assent 
 he never begins war. So long as the old Abugos lived (he 
 died three years ago, of the effects of a long imprisonment at 
 Acre), their affairs went on well, but they are much dissatisfied 
 with the present chief, because he is covetous, and does not 
 share his booty with the others. He has two brothers. It has 
 been observed that no chief of this family has died a natural 
 death. Three years ago heliad the misfortune to lose one of his 
 sons, who was cut to pieces by the inhabitants of a neighbour- 
 ing village. At the beginning of April, 1821, he conquered the 
 village, and killed many of the inhabitants. Sir Sydney Smith 
 sent him a handsome pair of pistols, a dagger, and some printed 
 leaves of the Koran. The late Queen of England, then Princess 
 of Wales, made him presents of the value of twenty-one thou- 
 sand piasters. He is also fond of making presents, but people 
 do not like to receive them, because they are obliged to make 
 him presents of twice the value in return. 
 
 This banditti chief is esteemed, because he is powerful, 
 keeps his word, and his protection and assistance may be de-. 
 pended upon ; whereas the legal governors murder and rob 
 under the cloak of the Jaw, and these districts are a scene of 
 plunder and robbery when a Motsallem or a Pacha dies. 
 We were in danger from such troubles, when the inhabitants of 
 Nablous were in a state of insurrection in February, 1821, and 
 all Palestine was for a few days in arms. 
 
 Before the French invasion these tribes were involved in 
 continual feuds, the consequence of which was, the desolation 
 of the country, the extinction of many chief families, the de-» 
 
i7L Egypt mid Lyhia, in 1821. 109 
 
 strijction of the villages, and the ruin of the inhabitants ; till 
 about twenty years ago the Pacha of Damascus, by his vigo- 
 rous measures, inspired terror into all these parties, so that 
 a traveller can now go, on payment of the ghafar, from Rama 
 to Jerusalem, and when he visits the Dead Sea and the Jordan, 
 may hope to escape without being murdered or plundered, if 
 he has some soldiers of the Motsallem of Jerusalem to protect 
 him ; but this journey should never be undertaken without 
 such an escort, as several Franks, who thought they could dis- 
 pense with it, have experienced. 
 
 The ancient Samaria is now mostly under the Pacha of Da- 
 mascus; though the country is mountainous it is well peopled. 
 One hundred villages belong to the district of Nabolosa, the 
 governor residing in Nablous, a large town said to contain 
 three times as many inhabitants as Acre. They are said (o 
 be malicious and thievish ; but I was exposed to less danger 
 than at Dschenin, where they wanted to show me how they 
 cut off people's heads ; whereas here I was only stared at, and 
 questioned about my country and my religion. The priest of 
 the schismatic Greek church too, assured me they were not so 
 bad as they were represented. The streets are broader and 
 cleaner than in other Arab towns, and I nowhere saw so many 
 houses, with Arab sentences from the Koran inscribed over the 
 doors in red letters, which distinguish the houses of those who 
 have made the pilgrimage to Mecca. 
 
 Jerusalem. -^- 
 
 Jerusalem has about eighteen thousand inhabitants, viz. eight 
 hundred Christians of the Latin church, eleven hundred of the 
 Greek, two hundred of the Armenian, and fifty of the Copic 
 and Syriac; the number of the latter diminishes while that of the 
 Armenians increase ; five thousand Mahometans, and ten thou- 
 sand Jews. The number of the latter increases annually ; it is 
 said that five hundred often come from Europe in one year, and 
 hardly fifty go away. Only the foreign Jews are rich ; those 
 born here live on alms sent from Europe by their rich brethren. 
 The city lies on an irregular eminence, and has six gates. The 
 church of the Holy Sepulchre belongs to the Greeks, Latins, 
 Armenians, and Copts. The building was commenced by the 
 Bishop Macarius, under Constantine, and completed by 
 Maximus. It was repaired by Heraclius, and subsequently 
 often destroyed and rebuilt. Each of the Christian parties has 
 its own chapel for divine worship, and dwellings for the 
 monks, who pray there day and night. Four Turks are there 
 as superintendants, and as they often have friends v^-ith them, 
 jou sometimes see twenty Mahometans sitting on the divan at 
 
1 1 SchoLz's Tr a v els 
 
 the door, or striking with their whips the poor pilgrims io the 
 church. They never open the church but in the presence of 
 a dragoman of the Greek, Latin, and Armenian convents. 
 Each pilgrim pays twenty-three piasters the first time he en- 
 ters, and afterwards one para each time. 
 
 The church of St. Salvator is in the Latin convent, and 
 the only one belonging to the Franks. Almost all the Greek 
 clergy are united in the great Greek convent, where five 
 bishops, six archimandrites, the procurator, and fifty monks 
 and deacons reside. They have their board and lodging, one 
 hundred piasters annual salary, and five thousand piasters for 
 masses. They have to reside almost the whole year in the 
 convent, to attend the ceremonies for the pilgrims, and add to 
 the splendour of them. This convent contains the church of 
 St. Constantine and St. Helena, which is full of paintings, and 
 possesses many relics. It joins the church of the Holy Sepul- 
 chre. The Greeks have several other churches in Jerusalem, 
 viz. those of St. Demetrius, of St. Nicholas, of St. George, (with 
 an hospital for the aged and infirm), of St. Michael, ofSt. 13asil, 
 of the Holy Virgin, founded by St. Milasia, of St. Eulhymius, 
 of St. John the Baptist, of Abraham, of St. Maria Egyptiaca, 
 containing a very ancient picture of the Virgin, and of St. 
 James. 
 
 The Armenians have undoubtedly the finest convent in Je- 
 rusalem, formerly belonging to the Georgians, who were obliged 
 to leave it because they were unable to make the customary 
 presents to the Turks. The Armenians obtained it by pre- 
 sents in spite of the remonstrances of the Greek patriarch, 
 under whose protection the Georgians had placed themselves. 
 The church is very handsome, clean, and adorned with paint- 
 ings. The chapel of St. James, where he is said to have been 
 beheaded, is particularly rich. Opposite is a nunnery of the 
 Armenians. 
 
 The Copts have their convent behind the church of the Holy 
 Sepulchre. The Abyssinians have theirs in the same place. It 
 contains a large collection of Ethiopic MSS., some histo- 
 rical, but most of them translations from the Bible and the 
 Fathers. 
 
 The convent and church of the Syrians, called that of St. 
 Marini or of St. Mary, is on the spot where St. Mary, the 
 mother of St. Marini dwelt. 
 
 The Jews have only three synagogues, all in bad condition ; 
 but I observed that they often have private meetings in the 
 houses of rich individuals. It would lx» a. great mistake to 
 judge from these synagogues of the condition of the .lews in 
 Jerusalem. As their numbers are never accurately reported, 
 
in Egypt and Lybia, i/i 1821. Ill 
 
 they are also cunning enough to appear to the Turks, out- 
 wardly, as poor as possible. 
 
 Jerusalem has been distinguished by the bounty of the ca- 
 liphs, sultans, and other sovereigns, to whom it is indebted 
 for many mosques. Private perso'A's have likewise been liberal 
 in this manner. But most of those mosques were formerly 
 Christian churches. They are so numerous, that a very large 
 proportion is not used. 
 
 There are six baths in the city ; the water of one of them is 
 salt, and has a medicinal virtue. The water which is drawn 
 during the day flows again in great abundance during the night. 
 All these baths are of ancient date. 
 
 On the Arabic Language ; the difference between the written 
 
 and vulvar Language, dfc. 
 
 In Egypt as well as in Syria, Arabic is almost exclusively 
 spoken and understood. Only in Maloula and Sidnaia, near 
 Damascus, the dialect is so different that it is considered to 
 be Syriac. Turkish is spoken only by some civil officers and 
 soldiers, and the inhabitants of Scanderoon and Beilan. The 
 Greek and Armenian monks speak their national languages, the 
 Latins the Italian. 
 
 As the difference between the Arabic written lanjjuajje of 
 the golden age of Arabic literature, from that now in use, is 
 greatly exaggerated, so is also the difference of that spoken in 
 various provinces, or in the several parts of the same pro- 
 vince. It is true we may perceive a considerable dijfference 
 in the grammar and syntax, and several words are adopted, 
 which are used but seldom in writing, or in a different sense. 
 But still the difference is not so great as is pretended. A well- 
 informed Greek will never understand the works of his ances- 
 tors, without preparatory study; but the x\rab does, as 1 fre- 
 quently convinced myself among the Bedouins in Kgypt and 
 Syria, and the inhabitants of the towns and villages in both 
 provinces. I was as much astonished at the ease with which 
 they read and commented upon Antar, Macrizi, Abulfeda, 
 &c. as they were at my acquaintance with the contents of those 
 works. It cannot excite surprise that some places have adopted 
 certain peculiarities, especially in the pronunciation. This is 
 the same with all languages, and all the inhabitants testified 
 that it was so in a high degree in the different villages in 
 Egypt. But according to my observations the difference is 
 not so great. The Bedouins in the Delta and Middle Egypt 
 speak better than the villagers. The peculiarities in the lan- 
 guage of the several provinces are more important. 
 
112 Scholz's Travels 
 
 The Arab in Yemen is known to be the best that is spoken. 
 Many words that are used by the best educated Arabs in 
 Cairo are not employed there. They know only the more 
 elegant forms of the written language. 
 
 In Jerusalem there are rftany words in daily use, different 
 from those employed at Cairo, to designate the same objects. 
 
 There are likewise some diversities in the language of the 
 coast towns of the villages, and especially of the Bedouins in 
 Syria. However inconsiderable they may be, it would be im- 
 portant to know them, because in the peculiaries of dialect in 
 the coast towns, we might perhaps find some remains of the 
 Phoenician. 
 
 In Beirout they speak bad Arabic. On Lebanon they swal- 
 low many syllables. In Palestine no peculiar dialects can be 
 distinguished : only the pronunciation of syllables and words is 
 different. Thus in many parts kaf is pronounced like ain. 
 In the villages about Samaria they generally speak slow, and 
 their mode of speaking, as well as their whole exterior, has 
 an appearance of sincerity ; but at the bottom they are rogues, 
 inclined to revolt, and notorious robbers. The inhabitants of 
 some villages about Gaza, drawl out most of their words in 
 a singing tone, and the old people carry this to such an excess 
 that one can hardly help laughing. At Jericho they speak 
 quick, but have a very bad way of pronouncing the vowels, 
 which are often hardly heard. The Bedouins on the Jordan 
 and Dead Sea speak the Arabic better than the inhabitants of 
 Jerusalem. Natural defects in speaking, as well as very ill 
 habits, are unknown to them ; but in general the Arabic 
 spoken in Palestine is not considered as the best. The women 
 generally drawl their words, especially in short phrases, and 
 sing just like the Jewish women with us. 
 
 It has often been remarked that a knowledge of the compa- 
 risons and proverbs used in the language of the people, would 
 be advantageous in the study of ancient writers. I did not 
 meet with any thing particular in their comparisons and pro- 
 verbs, they were such as are very common in the Oriental 
 writers, especially poets; and I am inclined to doubt whether 
 any new and unknown ones would be discovered among them. 
 This is another proof of the little difference between the written 
 and the vulgar language. 
 
 In Syria and Egypt, the love of literature is confined to 
 some Arabs in the capital cities, Cairo, Aleppo, Damascus, 
 and Acre. In the other cities all my incjuiries after ]\1SS. were 
 fruitless. I was assured that the MSS. of the historical kind 
 were chiefly procured from Cairo, where every thing was to 
 be had. 
 
in Egypt and Lyhia, m 1821. IIS 
 
 At Jerusalem I saw the history of Antar, in twenty-three 
 octavo volumes, and also several copies of the Chronicle of 
 Raschid. The largest library in Syria is at Acre. Ghezzar 
 Pacha composed it of the library of the convent of St. Sal- 
 vator, near Saida, of that of the Sheik Kairi, and that of the 
 Mufti of Rama. It contains eight hundred and four numbers, 
 but not so many different works. Thus there are several 
 copies of the work on the Sects, and among the many col- 
 lections of letters, several appear to be identical. Unfortu- 
 nately the names of the authors are never specified in the ca- 
 talogue which I have seen. There may be many unknown and 
 interesting works in it ; but it is very difficult to obtain per- 
 mission to see them. 
 
 Not only the towns, but most of the villages, have schools ; 
 from which, however, the women are wholly excluded. In 
 those of the Christians, as well as thos© of the Mahometans, 
 only reading and writing are taught, and sometimes, in those 
 of the Latin Christians, the Italian language. The latter like- 
 wise give religious instruction in the church on Sundays, by 
 catechising ; but the other Christian sects are as uoacquainted 
 with this mode as the Turks themselves. The children sit dis- 
 persed in the room on their hams; the master questions them in 
 succession ; the rest all read their lessons aloud, so that there 
 is always a great noise in these schools. They write either with 
 the Kalaain on polished paper, or with a stone on metal 
 plates, or with a coloured pencil on a kind of tablet. The 
 Mahometans write and read nothing but the Koran, and prayers 
 that are filled with phrases taken from it. They are not 
 communicative of either to the Christians. But the I mans 
 write out copies of this book for the Musselmen, generally in 
 four parts, and gain their livelihood partly by this occupation. 
 The Christians read in their schools the Psalter, from copies 
 printed on Mount Lebanon, or from MSS. 
 
 The following may serve as a proof of the ignorance of the 
 clergy at Jerusalem. The contest of tke several parties for 
 the possession of the church of the Holy Sepulchre, or its 
 chapel, is still carried on with much animosity. As the Greeks 
 have the advantage of all the others, by expending large sums, 
 and by intrigues, they also found means to get the better of them, 
 by proving the justice of their claims from ancient documents. 
 Among these there is one written in Neski character, which 
 they ascribe to Omar, and by which he grants the church of 
 the Holy Sepulchre to them and their posterity, as their pro- 
 perty for ever. Even if they had not the fact against them, 
 that in the seventh century there was no dispute about the 
 church, the circumstance that the Neski character was wholly 
 
 Voyages azzG? TuAVjsLs, Ao. XLVL Vol.Wll, q 
 
114 . Scholzs Travels 
 
 unknown at that time, would suffice to prove this document to 
 be a forgery. Nevertheless they boast of it not only in Jeru- 
 salem and Damascus, but even in the Divan of Constantino- 
 ple. The Armenian dragoman in the Divan, by a witty re- 
 mark, caused the decision to be put off, when the Greeks 
 thought themselves already sure of the victory. When the 
 Greek dragoman affirmed that their rights to the church of the 
 Holy Sepulchre were founded upon firmans, according to 
 which their ancestors possessed it in the remotest times, he re- 
 plied, that if those rights were to be enforced, the church of 
 St. Sophia must also be given up to them. This answer pleased 
 the Divan so well that the affair was adjourned. 
 
 All the Orientals have a propensity to superstition. As the 
 Christians have for certain misfortunes certain saints, whose 
 intercession they invoke, so have the Mahometans and Jews 
 certain formula which act as talismen, and these are written 
 in certain characters which only the initiated understand, who 
 by this means give them great importance. The Jews employ, 
 among others, what is called Kataba Libona. Some Rabbis 
 are of opinion that it was invented by Kutai, on Mount Le- 
 banon, and hence derives its name. Their superstition includes 
 the belief in ghosts, apparitions, &c. Thus for instance it is 
 said, that on the mountain, a quarter of a league north of Beil- 
 deras, a hen with her chickens sometimes appears, which 
 guards a treasure buried there. 
 
 The administration of justice is very simple in the East. The 
 judge does not even qualify himself for his office by many 
 years previous study. He studies his Koran and some Com- 
 mentaries, and at the most, the writings of some lawyers, and 
 interprets or perverts the Koran according to his own judg- 
 ment. At Constantinople, where they are the best educated, 
 they are said not to enjoy any esteem, and to be more exposed 
 than others to contempt and ill usage ; but as soon as they are 
 sent into the provinces they play the tyrant. Their decrees 
 are infallible. The judge hears both parties, puts questions, 
 makes objections, and decides verbally on the spot. In every 
 considerable place there is a judge, commonly for life, and 
 many of them, by natural sagacity and witty decisions, have 
 gained the attachment of those under their jurisdiction ; but- 
 the majority have made themselves hated. Small transgres- 
 sions are punished by them with imprisonment, and in 
 preference with a fine ; greater ones with death, the loss 
 of an eye, or other member. They go about the town 
 to examine, according to their fancy, and if they any where 
 find a deficiency of weight or measure, they inflict pu- 
 nishment on the spot. They are under the Mufti at Constan- 
 
in Egypt and LybiUy in 182 L 115 
 
 tinople, who in appearance is independent of the Divan, 
 though in fact all his actions are under its controul. It might 
 be thought that by this independence of the Pacha, the despo- 
 tism of the latter would be checked, but in general they do 
 not pay attention to him. 
 
 The dervises are here quite naked, live at the expence of 
 others, and enjoy uncontrolled liberty. They attack girls, and 
 sometimes women, in the streets, and are even covered in the act 
 by the pious Mahometans. At Jaffa one of them proceeded to 
 such extremities with the Christian women, that the English 
 consul Damian, yoked him to the wheel of a mill, like an ox, 
 and made him draw till he promised never more to molest 
 Christian women. At the festival of Easter, the dervise from 
 Chalil, now living at Jerusalem, did violence to a Catholic 
 woman of the Latin church. He had pulled off her head- 
 dress in her room ; she followed him to recover it, till he 
 threw her down. On our journey to the Jordan we requested 
 the governor strictly to inquire at whose instigation he had 
 done it, for it was generally said that the Greeks had prompted 
 him to this act of violence. The governor promised to inquire 
 into the affair. They do with impunity what they please. If 
 they are called to account, they answer, " Schar Allah. God 
 put it into my head." The Mahometans highly esteem a child of 
 such a dervise ; they have free access to the harem, and are 
 not responsible for any thing they do. They often beat the 
 Christians, who are obliged to bear it patiently. Very strict 
 Motsellams punish them by imprisonment. 
 
 Diseases in Palestine. 
 
 The small-pox still rages among children in the East, and 
 no care is taken to inoculate them. At Jerusalem it is 
 said not to be frequent. When I was at Nazareth there were 
 many children infected with it. The Tertian ague is common 
 in Judsea in the summer time. The coarse food, unripe fruit, 
 the use of pepper in large quantities, bleeding, want of exer- 
 cise, and the sulphureous exhalations from the Dead Sea, may 
 be the chief causes of it. The Turks frequently complain of 
 giddiness and momentary stupor, and yet will not refrain from 
 the use of opium. Epilepsy is very rare, and the symptoms 
 nearly the same as with us. Leprosy is more frequent. Many 
 poor persons afflicted with that disorder live in huts on Mount 
 SioD, secluded from the rest of the world. Some are like- 
 wise met with in the streets, asking alms. 
 I The Christians generally indemnify themselves for their ri- 
 
116 Schoiz's Travels 
 
 gorous fastiug, by the use of brandy, which unhappily subjects 
 them Jit an early period of life to apoplexy. At JSaziireth I 
 saw many old people afflicted with disorders in the eyes, 
 which may perhaps be caused by the heavy damp air that 
 comes from Lebanon. Fits of melancholy are seldom attended 
 with the same symptoms in Syria as among us. 
 
 The character of th© inhabitants of the i^ast, particularly 
 of the Mahometan, is serious ; he seldom laughs, and always 
 speaks with a certain gravity. A great misfortune can de- 
 press him extremely, and his discourse, as well as his writings, 
 may have the impression of a suddenly excited imagination, 
 but a permanent state of this kind is foreign to his character. 
 There is no want of persons who fancy themselves sick. 
 Many of the villagers especially, asked my advice, and, upon 
 an accurate examination, it appeared that nothing ailed 
 them. In general the native of the East is less susceptible 
 of disease tlian the native of the West. He is more inured to 
 hardship from his youth, always in the open air, accustomed 
 to simple food, and an enemy to all refinement. Yet they 
 seldom reach any great age, and those who grow old generally 
 die at about eighty. At Nazareth they spoke of a man one 
 hundred and four years old, as a most extraordinary pheno- 
 menon. It is said that strangers, especially Jews, who settle 
 here, are not long lived. It has been observed that the most 
 sickness is in October, November, and December ; the most 
 births in July, August, and September ; and that most of the 
 women die who lie in at Jerusalem in July. In general 
 they have no midwives; and this alone is very unfortunate. 
 Immediately after the birth, they lace the body so tight, that 
 the patient can scarcely breathe. The violent heat of July 
 may increase the bad consequences of this practice. As most 
 of the diseases proceed from the stomach, which is weakened 
 by the immoderate use of coffee and tobacco, and the early 
 indulgence of the sexual propensity, emetics and laxatives 
 are generally prescribed. If the first dose of medicine does not 
 afford relief, they generally think it useless to continue it. 
 
 The number of births generally exceeds that of deaths ; the 
 plague alone reverses t'his proportion. The pilgrims generally 
 bring it from Cairo and Damascus, and is said to be proved by 
 repeated experience, that that coming from Damascus is far 
 less dangerous than that from Cairo. 
 
 It generally comes to ( lalilee in March or April, to Jerusa- 
 lem in May or June, but it seldoni rages h.Te. Since the 
 French invasion, when many persons were carried oiT, it has 
 appeared bwt twice in Galilee; but on one of these two occa- 
 
in Egypt and Lybia, m 1821. 117 
 
 sions, the fathers were confined to their convent for eleven 
 months. 
 
 The hospital in the Latin convent, the only one in Jerusa- 
 was quite empty in 1821. The laboratory connected with it., 
 is amply stored with every thing necessary, and renowned for 
 the balsam which is made there. It is here alone that the 
 genuine balsam can be had, which is compounded of filty-five 
 different ingredients, some of which are very expensive. The 
 confidence of the Turks in the fathers and their medicine, is 
 evinced by their taking the medicine without requiring them to 
 taste it first. They are more employed as physicians than any 
 others, either natives or foreigners. Vitus Filukka, a German 
 father who came there about three years ago, is a particular 
 favourite. These fathers make use of this opportunity to bap- 
 tize any one who is near dying, without the knowledge of 
 himself or his relations, and they are very proud of their suc- 
 cess in this way. I know one who atTirms he has baptized' 
 eighty in this manner, and was often in the greatest embarrass- 
 ment when the patient seemed likely to recover. 
 
 Amusements of the Orientals. 
 
 Passion week was very lively in Jerusalem, because a fes- 
 tival of the Mahometans occurred at the same time. It coin- 
 cided with the time at which they annually make a pilgrimage 
 .to Vadi Musa, where Moses is said to be buried. What they 
 call Moses"* stone is found there, which burns like a coal, with- 
 out consuming, and smells like asphaltum. This pilgrimage is 
 made with a great deal of noise. The people flock out of the 
 gate Setti Mariam. The women form lines on each side. Some 
 men stand together in groups, and amuse themselves with 
 firing muskets; but the most ride in different troops to this 
 valley. Each of these troops keeps up an incessant firing, 
 those who are well mounted, shew their skill in horsemans:hip ; 
 they sing, and most have instrumental music, the only object 
 of which is to make as much noise as possible. I have never 
 seen the Mahometans so merry. Out of the other gates there 
 were likewise numbers in their holiday clothes, but most were 
 before this gate, because the road leads from it to Vadi Musa. 
 
 A very common amusement of the boys is the simple music 
 of a tambourine with bells, to which monkies dres-ed in rags 
 are made to dance. Grown up people frequently look on, and 
 often too amuse themselves with playing at some game in the 
 coffee-houses ; but most commonly they smoke tobacco either 
 there or in their divan, drink coffee, and speak a few words to 
 each other. Customs derived from antiquity, either in this or 
 *)ther respects, are in vain sought among them. 
 
118 Scholzs Travels 
 
 The women in the East have no amusement but when the 
 weather is fine in the afternoon to visit the church-yards, where 
 they sometims pray over the graves of their friends, sometimes 
 converse together, sometimes abuse those who pass by, or 
 look on, while the children are clambering up the trees. It is 
 probable that acquaintances may make appointments, and take 
 the opportunity of conversing on their domestic affairs. It is 
 thought highly indecorous for a man to approach them, even 
 at a distance. When the well of Jeremiah overflowed, th^ 
 people flocked out of Jerusalem to it; but nobody dared to 
 go near because some women had stationed themselves close 
 by it. 
 
 Throughout the East decorum and modesty are most strictly 
 maintained, but the manner in which it is done is very differ- 
 ent in different places. In Chalil no woman dares unveil be- 
 fore a man, even were he her own brother, without hazarding 
 the lives of both. A man dare not shew himself in a bye street, 
 without exposing himself to the most dangerous suspicion. The 
 bazar alone is publicly open to every body. In other cities, as 
 Gaza, Jaffa, Jerusalem and Nablous, they are not so strict ; 
 but the women always have their faces covered, none dare 
 speak face to face with any but their relations; their dress is 
 frightful, inconvenient and dirty. In the country, and even in 
 several towns, they are less rigorous in this respect, and the 
 women cover their faces, either half only, or not at all, when a 
 man comes tow ards them ; but they always live separate. At 
 Jaffa I lodged in a house where there were many women in 
 the lower story. Whenever I entered the house they ran from 
 their w^ork into the room, though I avoided even looking at 
 them. The consequence of this separation is, that instances of 
 unchastity are rare. The penalty of death, which is the in- 
 evitable consequence, has still more effect. 
 
 In the country their dress consists of a pair of wide trow- 
 sers, which are often very handsomely ornamented below, of 
 a long blue shirt, fastened round the breast with a girdle, and 
 often of a large handkerchief, which hangs down so as almost 
 to cover the whole person. At Richa they have a long blue 
 dress tied round the body and open before. The Christian 
 women differ from the Mahometans in wearing a white hand- 
 kerchief before the face, whereas the others commonly wear a 
 black one. A nuuiber of gold or silver coins strung together 
 are often bound round the head by way of ornament. They 
 are very fond of black eyes and dye them. They express joy 
 by a monotonous song, the whole text of which is lu, lu, cVc. 
 The men wear in Galilee breeches, a wide shirt, and over 
 it a short coat without sleeves; and in bad wealher n largft 
 
in Egypt and Lyhia^ iw 1821. 119 
 
 cloak, which looks more like a blanket. On their heads they 
 wear a long red cap. 
 
 The wedding is one of the greatest festivals among the 
 Oriental Christians. The whole village, and in towns, the 
 greater part of the congregation, and many persons who do not 
 belong to them, assemble and dance, i. e. leap before each 
 other, clapping their hands, and then eat rice and meat. The 
 hospitality of the Orientals is not much commended at present, 
 however sacred to them the duty appears, of kindly providing 
 strangers gratis with all necessaries. They are so little able to 
 hide their poverty and distress, that you willingly indemnify 
 them for their expense and trouble. The schismatic Greeks are 
 remarkable for their cunning in this respect. The khans, of 
 which so many are seen in a dilapidated condition, recal the 
 memory of better times. Even the last remnant of them, the 
 custom of keeping, in all the high roads, reservoirs filled with 
 water, to which the nearest village is bound ; is still retained 
 only in a few places. I often expressed my dissatisfaction at 
 this to the i\rabs, who always answered, '^ where are those 
 happy times now ? where shall we now find hospitality?" 
 
 Their domestic mode of life forms a contrast with ours. 
 They shave the head and let the beard grow ; w^e shave the 
 beard, and let the hair of the head grow. With them it would 
 be unpolite to uncover the head in the presence of an acquaint- 
 ance ; with us it is unpolite not to do it. We sit on chairs, 
 eat at tables, and sleep in beds ; they sit, eat and sleep on the 
 ground. We eat with knives, forks, and spoons, from plates 
 and dishes ; they with their fingers from one common dish. Our 
 dishes and liquors are compounded ; theirs plain. We have 
 numerous wants ; the Orientals very few. We travel in car- 
 riages ; they ride. We love and seek exercise ; the Orientals 
 never take any without a certain object. We love change ; 
 they uniformity. A dress which w^as common only^ thirty years 
 back is ridiculous among us ; with them the same dresses, 
 manners and customs prevail that were in use thousands of 
 years ago. Our domestic animals are as effeminate as our- 
 selves; those of the Orientals are able to endure the greatest 
 hardships. They observe their fasts very strictly ; we less 
 so, and in quite a different manner. 
 
 In general the Orientals are more honest, they never steal ; 
 the Occidentals are more given to cheat : the former proceed 
 more quickly to act, the latter are more considerate. They 
 transact every thing publicly ; with us there is no end of mys- 
 tery. With us the fair sex reign in the family and in society, 
 and are allowed to show their charms; there they see no 
 company, and are obliged to go veiled from head to foot. 
 
120 Scholzs Travels 
 
 With us the bride receives a dowry from her father, there he 
 is paid a considerable sum for her. 
 
 Od the whole, the physical and moral character of the East, 
 reposes on principles which are in tlie main, the same as they 
 were some thousand years ago, and which make a permanent 
 contrast to those of the West. In the East, religion is the ob- 
 servance of certain prescribed rules. Our administration of 
 justice is regulated by wise, natural, and positive laws ; theirs 
 governed by the wil,( of a despot, to whom every thing be- 
 longs, who can dispose at pleasure of the lives of his subjects, 
 as his own property. For some thousands of years one tyrant 
 has made room for another, and every one revels by the right 
 of the strongest, on the possessions of his subjects. 
 
 In vain do we seek in the list of their sovereigns for bene- 
 factors like Sextus V. Henry IV. Frederick II. and Maria 
 Theresa, whom every Italian, Frenchman, Prussian and Aus- 
 trian names with prolound respect and ardent love, and in 
 whose reigns he might find the ideal of a golden age. The 
 Oriental is proud of individual liberty, and maintains it by the 
 revenge of blood ; but then he renounces civil freedom. We 
 willingly allow our individual liberty to be controuled by wise 
 laws, but live happy in the enjoyment of civil freedom. Our 
 life is more active ; that of the Orientals more passive. Our 
 mode of living is refined and changeable ; theirs simple and 
 permanent. Among us prevails an impulse towards great 
 civilization ; among them a tendency to barbarism. 
 
 For centuries a curse has rested on these countries, which 
 formerly contained rich and powerful cities, the environs of 
 which were covered with innumerable villages, cultivated 
 fields, and crowded roads. The riches of every climate flowed 
 to them ; in their walls opulence and luxury reigned, and their 
 streets were animated by the incessant bustle of commerce 
 and art, and the sounds of festivity and joy. These numerous 
 blocks of marble that lie scattered around, once decked the 
 sumptuous palace, these mighty columns of marble and gra- 
 nite, once enhanced the splendour of the imperial hall, or the 
 awful majesty of the temple. These dreary places covered 
 with unseemly rubbish, which savage beasts have now chosen 
 for their abode, were once the resort of a busy multitude 
 who ilocked hither from every part of south western Asia. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 LONDON: 
 SHACRKI.L AND A RnOWSMITII, JOHNSONVs-COPRT, FI.EET-STRERT.