Mrs. Phoebe A. Hearst W!THDRAV/M BANCROFT LIBRARY o- THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES r LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES BY HARRY HIGGINS With a foreword by Samuel Travers Clover Illustrated by RALPH MOCINE GRAPHIC PUB. CO. Los Angeles, Cal. 1911 THIS memorial edition is limited to one hundred copies and is printed for private distribution. IN MEMORIAM E RAR FOREWORD When I was invited by the mother of Harry Higgins to examine the manuscript writings of her talented son with a view to preparing them for publication in pamph- let form, I had little conception at the time of the genuine pleasure that awaited me. That the son was unusually gifted in various ways I had reason to believe, but of his literary propensities I knew nothing. Con- sequently, the inspection of the bundle of sketches and poems, printed and unprinted, entrusted to me, was approached with dif- fidence, but a brief reading quickly dissi- pated that feeling and it was with undeni- able zest that I continued what proved to be a delightful task. Keen observation and delicate humor, character sketching of a subtle quality, des- criptive powers of a high order, fine imag- ery, poetic feeling, mingled with rare repres- sion, together with a literary style that sur- prised while it charmed, were unfolded to my view, impelling an admiration that was spontaneous, and arousing a regret that so talented a mind was allied with so weak a bodily frame. That the physical limitations of Harry Higgins must have been a source LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES of much inward grief to the young man can- not be doubted, yet nowhere in his literary work do I find the slightest trace of irri- tation, of repining, of fretfulness or of pes- simism because of his chronic sickness. To the contrary, evidence of a good-natured, cheery spirit is apparent throughout, even his own ailments forming a subject for jest- ing, as witness his fanciful schedule of the bodily discomforts of a hypochondriac, which he summed up in a bit of verse en- titled "Megrims." Never is he found with a plaint on his pen's tip. He sang the gospel of cheerful living, of courage, of good humor, of kind- ness. That he wrote as he lived may be gathered from the following incident told me by his surviving elder brother, and after- ward, with added detail, by his mother. Following a long spell of illness in which the presence of a trained nurse was con- stantly required, Harry, one evening, after a severe attack of coughing, burst a main artery. Calling his nurse she quickly saw that it was a case demanding prompt sur- gical attention. They chanced to be alone in the house. For a moment the nurse lost her poise and began to turn white as she vi LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES realized the imminent danger. Harry, with his ringers firmly gripping the artery, im- mediately rallied her, remarking with a smile, "See here, you're not going to faint and leave me alone in this fix, are you?" It had the desired effect, and recovering her- self quickly the nurse hurriedly summoned the doctor, her patient bravely retaining his hold of the artery, to relinquish which meant certain death. Courageous in all things affecting himself and reflecting the same spirit in his writings the note of optim- ism is ever present. How dearly he loved dumb animals may be gathered by reading the charming des- cription of his two marmoset pets, Moody and Sankey, which tiny monkeys he brought back with him from the Barbados to cheer his lonely hours for many a day thereafter. His delightfully-told story of Nebuchadnez- zar, the antique mule of erratic disposition, reveals to a nicety the whimsical quirk of his alert mind, together with a keen appre- ciation of the vagabondish, irresponsible brute nature occasionally to be met. To all dogs he was friendly and one in particular was his constant companion. Read his story of "Our Happy Family" and realize how LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES closely his sympathy lay with the smaller creatures of the animal world. But it is in his alluring narrative of his journey to the West Indian islands, a graphic and poetic revelation of the beauties of these favored spots in the Caribbean sea, that Harry's active mind found its freest scope. Nothing of interest seems to have escaped his roving, yet observant eye. Whether in character drawings, anecdote- telling, dwelling on the many moods of na- ture at sea or on shore, bits of humorous description, or swift changes to deep pathos as seen in his all too brief story of the mother's sacrifice to follow her leprous son to a living death his love for humanity is uppermost, his unfailing geniality of dispo- sition ever dominant, his gentle humor con- stantly lubricating the asperities of the most trying situations. For breezy naturalness, combined with splendid descriptive powers and the disclos- ing of a mint of information concerning the subject, his capital article entitled "The Fly- ing Fish Fleet" is a gem of well-written English, That a youngster of his all too feeble frame should have dared essay the discomfort and even peril of an adventure of viii LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES this nature, but proves the truth of my previous assertion in regard to Harry's cour- age. He wanted to know at first hand of the experiences to be gained in an outing with the fleet and he did not hesitate at the cost. As a result, for one of the most spirited, accurate and informing articles it has been my good fortune to come across in a wide circle of reading, I can thank the young author whose virile words require so little editing at my hands. Read his artless story of "How I Broke Up the Side Show" and chuckle, as I have done, over the un- conscious humor of the small boy so deftly conveyed by the narrator of the incident. As for "Biddy McClane's Revenge," it is a railroad classic that is no less interesting because it is a leaf from true history. Biddy and her pig's fate and the owner's unex- pected reward, when on revenge bent, form a chapter in the annals of a small town in Central Illinois, where Harry's family once lived. Note the delicacy of touch in the poem, "Her Reminder." Just three short stanzas, but' the result is a perfect picture. His love for the sea, for the mysteries of nature, is graphically exhibited in the breezy poem, ix LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES redolent of the tang of the salty air, bearing the refrain "When the Wind Blows Through the Rigging." Only one in close attune with the ocean's moods and tenses could have given us that marine etching. Of a deeper note is his beautiful tribute to the Isle of Martinique, a tragic spot visited be- fore the volcanic besom of destruction swept St. Pierre out of existence. The final stanza, added by the poet's mother, subtly suggests the source of Harry's literary gifts. Purposely, I have included in this me- morial volume a few examples of verse in lighter vein, as denoting the playfully humorous bent of the author. "Our Fire" is a worthy complement of Miss Mitford's prose sketches of "Our Village," while its handling is not unmindful of Thackeray in a relaxed mood. "The Hayseed" is a serio- comic tragedy in miniature. As for the "Me- grims," it is, as I have previously stated, a parody on the poet's own ills of the body, in which he is to be seen poking fun at his poor health. Not literary are these three instances chosen, nor did their author con- ceive them to be; they simply reflect a phase of his temperament and because of LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES the human qualities they contain they are given space in this collection. It is interesting to note that nearly all the literary work to be credited to Harry Higgins was done when he was between twenty and twenty-five. Before he was in his twenties he was addicted to scribbling, but nothing of a serious nature emanated from his pen, or at least survived, that I have found. His constant illness in the last two years of his life of suffering forbade the solace that he found in writing, so that a period of six years may be said to have constituted his literary activity. Had he been endowed with a physique to match his in- tellect the world of belle lettres would cer- tainly have been richer for his contributions. He was a faithful student of French and German which languages he mastered on his sick bed, until he was able to read and speak them with ease and fluency. His friend, the late Dr. H. W. Thomas of Chi- cago, remarked of Harry, that, while a hope- less invalid, his face and features were per- fect and strangely interesting. "The growth of the body," wrote the noted divine, "was partially arrested, but this restrained energy seemed to go to the mind; for the whole xi LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES mental life was unusually large for a child, and had in early youth reached the re- flective period that generally comes, if at all, in the later years. Not being able to take any regular course of study, and being so intensely interested along the lines of his own thinking, the boy Harry, was per- mitted largely to find and have his own way in his own world and life. "It was in these years of opening child- hood and youth," continues the doctor, "that I knew Harry so well and loved him not alone the love of sympathy because of his afflictions; but the love of a nature so tender and beautiful and of a life so young out of the world of thought and principles. His mind then went to the fields of philoso- phy and literature ; or rather, was philosoph- ic and literary in its tastes and methods ; for he had not created a field by reading the thoughts of others, but was trying to find his own way, and when he reached the years of early manhood he was quite a young philosopher. He was, with all his sufferings, the most cheerful member of the family, and o/ten said to his mother, 'You must not fear death; it brings its own anaesthetic." I remember once when he was xii LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES very sick and seemed near the last, he ask- ed me if I thought it was necessary to be baptised. The question was direct, and with such a mind, called for more than the 'yes' or 'no' of the religion of authority: it must appeal to the understanding, and I said: 'With the Catholic church, baptism is es- sential, but the Christ did not baptise any, and Paul thanked the Lord that he had bap- tised but few. Religion is more than an outer form; it is an inner state of being.' He thought a few minutes and said 'I am satisfied.' Having reached the reality he was at rest. "At another time, after a long talk, going out, I said to his mother, 'Your son has lived more than fifty years in less than half that time.' This beautiful life, so strangely limited by its near environments, found its way out into the larger world of helping others in the struggle and battle for existence and success. His charities were many and liberal; it was part of his own suffering life to help others." I am glad to be able to add this tribute from one who knew Harry so well. It was fitting that from so sympathetic a teacher should have come the final words that were xiii LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES uttered over Harry's mute form. Of the efforts of his father, since deceased, to ac- quaint the good doctor of the flight of Har- ry's spirit, reference to the newspaper ac- count contained in the appendix to this lit- tle volume, will tell. Dr. Thomas has allud- ed to the philosophical bent of Harry's mind. It was not a profound philosophy that he embraced, but rather a human philoso- phy, touching on the less complex phases of existence, and because of this trend I have concluded, with his mother's acquiescence, to christen these modest but attractive chil- dren of Harry's fertile brain, "Little Philo- sophies," and to all lovers of the humanities, and especially to those who were privileged to know the gifted author, I commend these charming prose sketches, and all too few poetic gems, knowing they will be as great- ly edified, as I have been, by the reading. S. T. C. Los Angeles, April, 1911. CONTENTS Foreword Bound for the Barbados -. When the Wind Blows Through the Rigging The Flying Fish Fleet Isle of Martinique Moody and Sankey: Two Marmosets The Reminder Our Happy Family How I Broke Up a Sideshow .... Nebuchadnezzar Biddy McClane's Revenge . Plot for a Story: A Fragment . In Lighter Vein: Megrims The Hayseed Our Fire Appendix Hound fir the Barbados WE are bound for Barbados, to the land of perpetual summer, but there is nothing suggestive of summer in our pres- ent surroundings. We hurry up the ice cov- ered gang-plank to the steamer's side eager to gain the warm shelter of the cabin. The few passengers on board who have friends on the wharf to bid them bon voyage ener- getically brave the icy wind which sweeps across the steamer's bow and stamp their feet and wave their arms in a vain endeavor to keep warm and appear cheerful, while their friends on the wharf shiver and shake and inwardly mutter maledictions at the tardy departure of the vessel. At last the captain hurries up the gang-plank, the bell rings sharply out from the depths of the engine room, the screw beginning to revolve sends masses of broken ice swirling to- ward the rear and the huge steamer, gath- ering momentum, plows her way through the drift and slush of New York harbor. 17 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES The first duty of a voyageur is to become acquainted with everyone else, for there is nothing which so adds to the comfort of a voyage as the joining of the whole ship's company into one huge social family, dwell- ing under their own roof tree, as it were. Filled with this benevolent intention, Mr. A. and myself betook ourselves to the inte- rior of the cabin, but, alas for our hopes! everyone was sitting around, looking as solemn as an owl; feeling a little homesick, perhaps, or more likely troubled with fore- bodings of sea-sickness. The gentle swell of the Atlantic was already perceptible and several countenances were beginning to assume an uncomfortable expression. The leader of our party was cross and crabbed he complained of the cold. I tried to cheer him up by saying we would soon be in a warmer climate, where he could wear his linen tennis suit and duster. He said aft- erward that this remark of mine threw him into a congestive chill, but I attributed it to mal de mer. We assisted him to his stateroom and returned feeling much de- pressed. This was a most dismal commencement of the voyage and, our spirits beginning to 18 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES sink, we put on our coats, defied the wind and sallied forth to the bow to be rid of our melancholy comrades. The view of a great steamer from this point is very at- tractive her lines sweep toward the rear in graceful perspective the huge bulk rises and falls as each succeeding wave breaks into foam under the bow the tapering spars dip first on one side and then on the other until every timber groans and creaks un- der the enormous tension. On the bridge running across the forward part of the ves- sel eight feet above the deck, stand two men who keep a sharp lookout for derelicts (as floating wrecks are called) and other ves- sels. Below, in the pilot house, are the two wheelmen whose sole duty it is to keep the vessel on her course by the true, uner- ring needle of the compass. Still farther back towers the huge stack through which rolls the smoke of three hundred tons of coal a day. Up from the hold below come the rattle and clang of the furnace doors as the firemen shovel in the stimulus which propels the vessel. A hot place is the stoke- hole the dull red of the fires is reflected from the blackened, perspiring faces of the stokers. Once in a while a poor fellow faints 19 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES from the heat and is dragged out to get a breath of fresh air. A rough and hard life is the stokers', and of sailors generally; working and toiling during an entire voy- age, they squander their wages in a single night ashore and are forced to return to their ship in the morning to keep from starv- ing. The engine room is farther back and through the inside cabin windows one may catch a glimpse of turning shafts and flying bars, of engineers and oilmen whose duty it is to watch this mammoth but delicate piece of mechanism. Day in and and day out, for weeks at a time, the huge screw cease- lessly revolves and its dull thud is the first sound one hears on waking, and the mo- notonous lullaby of one's rest at night. The quartermaster is around at all times of the day and night with his crew of men, trim- ming the sails as the wind shifts and exam- ining every rope and spar. Rows of huge pipes fitted with funnel-shaped mouths, sup- ply the ship with good fresh air, while shrouds and rigging rise above the whole in an intricate network. In case of fire or other accidents the entire crew works like an automaton; each man has a certain duty 20 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES to perform and knows just how to do it; in fact, "order and obedience" is the sail- or's motto, and nowhere is it lived up to so strictly as on board an ocean greyhound. As we stood on the bow I remarked to A. that it was very exhilarating to go bound- ing upon the crest of a wave and as the ves- sel sank into the trough to be left standing almost in mid-air. A. said it was a little too much so for him and that he believed he would retire to the seclusion of his state- room to cast up his accounts, or something, I could not catch just what. I judged from the far away look in his eye that if a bal- ance was struck old Neptune would be credited with it. I like a candid man, one who will truth- fully say when he gets sick : I hate your hoary face, gruff sea; 'Twere vile hypocrisy in me To say I loved thee, if I do May I be d rowned in the deep blue. I did not see A. again for two days and a half and then I could truthfully ask with Shakespeare, "Be thou the spirit of health or goblin damned, where is thy substance?" That evening at dinner I became acquaint- ed with several fellow passengers who 21 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES seemed very pleasant, in fact it has never been my good fortune to meet with a more agreeable company of people than was on board the Alliance. In any considerable number of people one always finds certain types of humanity for instance, there is al- ways a fat man and a lean man, the tall man and the short man, and very rarely the chuckling man. By a chuckling man I mean an individual built on the Abraham Lincoln plain, tall, gaunt and loose jointed; a man who begins to laugh in the center of his stomach and as the various parts and or- gans catch the infection, quivers and shakes until his whole anatomy is in a perfect con- vulsion of merriment. Such an individual was well represented on board in the per- son of a traveler named Fairwater. Mr. Fairwater was the possessor of another ac- complishment which gave me uneasiness- he could eat with his knife in a most re- markable and dexterous manner; not with a dull, nickleplated American knife, but an English steel knife, sharpened every day to an edge warranted to cut the toughest beef- steak in existence. He could balance a piece of vegetable on the end of this instrument and with the utmost celerity and precision 22 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES deposit it at the base of his tongue. At first this performance caused me some appre- hension, but at length I became possessed of a morbid desire (like Mark Twain on the pyramid of Cheops) that Fairwater -would do himself harm. Seated directly opposite me was Major Sellers. Born an American, the major had early emigrated to the Brazilian states, where he had undergone hardships and pri- vations enough to supply six ordinary men. Being a bluff, good-natured, jolly old fel- low his company was very agreeable and he was generally the center of a merry group. On the major's right sat Miss Gush everyone knows Miss Gush. Miss Gush is the ethereal person who writes poetry by moonlight, does her curls up in papers by lamplight, and sleeps mostly during the light of day. A person who thinks everything is most terribly terrible, awfully awful or grandly grand. I have always noticed that extremists of this type who pretend to be above all things worldly and whose artistic souls must be satisfied by huge draughts of nature, pay especial attention to the neces- sities of life, particularly their appetites. The remainder of the table was occupied by the 23 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES captain and purser, Mr. and Mrs. Brown of St. Louis, our party from New York, a Frenchman who spoke very little English, three Spaniards who did nothing but abuse their valets, a beardless youth seeking his fortune in South America, and a dyspeptic looking Yankee from Connecticut. The lat- ter was in the baking powder business, which perhaps accounted for his bilious appearance. I shall always remember this person as one of an army of cranks who are haunted by the microbe theory. He drank boiled water, carried a small filter with him, insisted on putting chloride of lime into every washstand, advocated the use of wo- ven-wire pillows and gave lectures on dif- ferent species of bacilli, from bacteria to trichinae until the whole ship's company avoided him as a pestilence. . ."Yes," said the major to the beardless youth as he helped himself to the butter, "take the advice of an old battle-scarred veteran and go back on the first boat why, young man, yellow fever will welcome you on the wharf at Santos, smallpox lurks be- hind every street corner, while the air is full of malaria and typhoid." Here the Connecticut man shuddered. 24 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES "If you persist," continued the major, "your folks will receive a box of clothing about next May, and poor Charley will be only a tender memory." "Beg pardon," interrupted Miss Gush, "but do you think, really and truly, we shall have a storm tonight, Mr. Fairwater?" "Yes," replied Fairwater, deftly deposit- ing a piece of cheese at the back of his mouth, "I think we shall ; you see we shall soon be midway between Cape Hatteras and Bermuda, the stormiest spot on the Atlan- tic ocean, and when the warm, moist air of the gulf stream meets that of the cold Labrador current there is likely to be trou- ble in Uncle Neptune's realm." "This is one of the deepest parts of the Atlantic," remarked one of our party, "and the waves sometimes attain an enormous size. I made one voyage when the seas car- ried away the lifeboats, smashed the railings and skylight, ripped off the copper sheath- ing, flooded the cabins and buffeted the ves- sel so badly that it became necessary to throw overboard two thousand dollars' worth of lime juice and a quantity of fish oil to relieve the strain." 25 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES How grand is Nature in her sterner moments, How terrible when rousted to fury, Perceive those billows fit exponents, Of power so potent and enduring. recited Miss Gush. "Did Mademoiselle zat beauteous poetry compose?" gallantly inquired Jacques Bon- homme. Miss Gush cast down her eyes and sim- pered, from which we concluded that she meant yes. "I know I shall be nearly dead with sea- sickness," said Mrs. Brown. "That's the way with you ladies," laughed the captain, "you are afraid of dying before you get sick, and are afraid you won't die after you do get sick." We all laughed except Fairwater, who first trembled, then quivered, and finally shook until the very dishes rattled on the table. I have often timed Fairwater, and I find that it generally takes from a minute to a minute and a half for him to get under good headway. When we rose from the table the wind was blowing from a gale southwest and the vessel was beginning to plunge in a man- 26 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES ner quite alarming to the timorous ones. A storm at sea is both an interesting and grand experience to undergo. Who has not felt a thrill of excitement while reading the vivid descriptions of a storm in the pages of Marryat and Cooper? Who has not seen the men aloft on the trucks or shud- dered at the dangerous footing of the reef- ers? One can almost hear the hoarse bawl- ings of the mate and the hiss of rushing wa- ters, the creaking of timbers and the whis- tling of the wind through the shrouds and rigging. It seems as if one were standing with the captain at the wheel and watching the monstrous billows as they boarded the vessel and swept in a foamy torrent over the deck. While such geniuses as Victor Hugo, Marryat, Cooper and Russell can portray nature so well, nature herself is far more sublime and awe-inspiring, and one must actually witness such a combat of the elements before appreciating the grandeur of the scene. But there is always a large majority of the ship's passengers who are not in fit condition to be awe-inspired by anything. It is essential that a person be proof against seasickness in order to glow with the fire of enthusiasm. 27 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES When one finds a beautiful spot in the mountains or by the sea and the chords of wonder and admiration vibrate at the touch of nature it makes one feel disgusted to look up and see "Take Dr. Barter's Little Liver Pills Before Breakfast." It is exact- ly that way with seasickness ; it takes away all the poetry of your being. Two hours after dinner, when the last seasick wretch had sought his bunk, I was fast asleep in my berth, dreaming of the land of flowers and sunshine, of cocoanut groves and banana orchards when crash! bang ! smash ! came a noise to my ears like the result of an earthquake in a crockery store, piercing shrieks arose from the wom- en, visions in white flitted past my door; all was confusion. Mr. Brown, in an abbreviated costume, hurried down to investigate matters. He found that, owing to the terrible plunging of the vessel, the huge ice chest, which was filled with apollinaris water and other wa- ters not quite so innocent, had broken loose from its moorings and was careening around the saloon in a truly hilarious manner as if it felt the influence of the aforementioned liquids on its interior. It was finally cap- 28 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES tured and fastened securely and we all went to bed again, but not for long; fate was against us, for suddenly another crash was heard, once more the shrieks rang out and once more Mr. Brown investigated. This time it was the marble center table which had broken from its moorings and it was rolling around the room, accompanied by the piano and several chairs. To cap the climax the wind suddenly shifted and the salt spray began to leak through into every stateroom on the windward side of the ves- sel. There was soon an inch of water washing to and fro on the floor and trunks and clothing had to be hastily placed in the berths while the occupants thereof sat up and watched the night change slowly into day. During the storm the jib and top- mast were swept away and every thing portable swept from the deck. The gale con- tinued with unabated fury all of the follow- ing day, when it ceased. We retired that evening with the comforting assurance that our troubles were over, and that, hence- forth, we would sail on a calm and peace- ful sea. To wake up and find a warm, sunny day, to see the crew putting up awnings as 29 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES if for a Fourth of July excursion, to open your window and feel the balmy breath of a summer's day fan your cheek, to don light clothing and linen trousers, is a great change from a damp, chilly atmosphere and winter garments twelve hours before. Yet we had traveled from winter to summer in half a day, from the climate of January to that of June ; we had exchanged the frigid air of the Labrador current for the moisture laden at- mosphere of the gulf stream and were now plowing our way through a part of the ocean unrivalled for its beauty the world over. The gulf stream, that mighty ocean stream, equal in bulk to three thousand Mississippi rivers, flowing winter and summer uninter- rupted, on its course from the Straits of Florida to Spitzenbergen and carrying with it the tropical heat which gives to England and Iceland their temperate climate. Bermuda lies just south of this "steam pipe of the ocean," as Lieutenant Maury calls it, and to this position is due its sa- lubrious climate. One by one the passengers appeared on deck, wan and haggard, but jubilant and happy, execrating the storm, but rejoicing in the change and capable of eating a good 30 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES breakfast, something hitherto quite impos- sible. Mr. Fairwater put in an appearance, or rather the shadow of one. Mr. A. came on deck looking like Banquo's ghost. Miss Gush was there with an emaciated smile. Mr. Brown reported himself a little dis- abled but still in the ring, while it actually seemed good to hear Mr. Alum discussing yellow fever microbes with the captain. We were a jolly crowd as we descended to breakfast and Major Sellers got to telling about a friend of his who went to sea and became so sick that he offered the captain a thousand dollars to put him ashore. "Can't do it, sir," said the captain, whereupon the man went away again, but soon returned and offered two thousand dollars. This of- fer was also refused and he went away again, but returned in an hour and said, "Captain, here is three thousand dollars, it's every cent I've got in the world, now take it and please throw me overboard." This story so tickled the table steward that he capsized a bowl of mutton broth down Fairwater's back just as the latter was bursting into merriment which, of course, checked his hilarity to an extent. Just then the purser stuck his head 31 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES through the skylight and cried, "There she blows ! whales ! there she blows on the star- board side." Of course, everyone made a wild, undigni- fied rush for the deck to catch a glimpse of the great cetaceans. Yes, there they were, three huge fellows of the green variety, spouting and blowing in the easy swell, not a quarter of a mile away. At intervals jets of spray were forced from their blow-holes into the air, rising to a distance of twenty feet or more and falling in a silvery shower on their broad, shining backs. Upon a near- er approach they took alarm and throwing their gigantic tails into the air went to the bottom to be seen no more. The beardless youth asked the captain if he had ever seen a whale's egg. The cap- tain said yes that he had run into a whole nestful off the island of Antigua and had to put on all steam to escape the angry mother, who chased him for three hours. Major Sellers said that reminded him of the little Sunday school boy who asked his teacher if Jonah's whale was fitted up inside with upper and lower berths and if it had a buffet and a porter. After breakfast Mr. Brown announced 32 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES that he was going to fish for gulls from the steamer's stern. The large gray gulls which had followed us continuously from New York, had suddenly disappeared and their places were taken by a new variety of a beautiful black and white color. There are two ways of catching seagulls, one by the ordinary hook and line, the other by means of a line, to the end of which are fastened a number of strong silk threads, in which the bird becomes entangled and is drawn on board. Mr. Brown caught two gulls and a Mother Carey's chicken, but soon gave them their liberty again. Sailors are very superstitious about the Mother Carey's chickens or stormy petrel and believe their presence foretells a storm. They will not permit them to be harmed if they can possibly prevent it, believing that to kill one brings bad luck to all on board. The natural history of this curious little bird is very meager, for its nest is never found and it is never seen on shore, neither is it ever seen alight on the water, al- though it is constantly darting from wave to wave, wheeling and turning like a swal- low, which it much resembles. Sailors gen- erally believe that it deposits its eggs on 33 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES the floating gulfweed and when the young chicks hatch out, takes them away on its back and flies away, hence its name, "moth- er carries chickens." Life on board the Alliance now became a succession of enjoyable days; everyone developed such a prodigious appetite that the steward was forced to introduce an ex- tra meal just before bedtime. The men folk usually collected under the awnings and talked and smoked the hours away, while the women occasionally joined them in a game of quoits or assisted in an impromptu concert. Early every morning, just as old Sol was rising from his watery bed in the east, the men donned their pajamas and hastened to the bow, where they enjoyed the novel sensation of having a stream of salt water played on their bodies from the ship's hose. Sometimes a tarpaulin was caught up by the four corners, filled with water and used as a natatorium by the aquatic members of our company. Just think, my icebound northern readers, of these men disporting themselves in the water, puffing and blowing like a school of porpoises, with the blue sky above them and the bluer water beneath; if such 34 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES a picture does not create in your heart a de- sire for similar pleasures then your sensibil- ities are blunted and your imagination dead. Sleeping on deck is another novel luxury equally appreciated by the invalid and the robust. When the quietness of the night settles upon the steamer, and only the monotonous throbbing and beating of the engines is heard, one may comfortably recline in a steamer chair and watch the stars as they rise and dip to the vessel's motion, the tow- ering masts and network of rigging as they majestically wave to and fro, sharply out- lined against the starlit background. One notes the fleecy clouds crossing the moon's bright surface and the imagination is filled with pleasant thoughts and fancies. The tired senses are lulled to rest and the voy- ager sleeps "rocked in the cradle of the deep," in fact as well as in fancy. But imagine, my friend, that you have slept in this delightful manner, enjoyed your early morning dip in the tarpaulin, eaten an appetizing breakfast and stand ready to follow whithersoever I shall lead you. Come with me to the vessel's bow; let us look down into the deep, blue water and I will 35 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES show you one of the prettiest little creatures in nature's vast aquarium. I mean the fly- ing-fish. See them as they rise from the water in a silvery shower as the vessel ap- proaches; one, two, a dozen, a thousand leaping from wave to wave; like flashes of light they go, their trembling wings glitter- ing in the sunshine, more like gilded hum- ming birds they seem than creatures of the finny tribe. Their flight is from twenty to a thousand feet in length, and they seldom rise higher than thirty feet into the air. The pretty little flying-fish leads a sorry life; he seems to be the natural prey of everything. Pursued by sharks and dolphins in his watery home, he soars into the air, only to fall a victim to the hungry gull. But let us look more closely and we shall per- ceive, scarcely twenty feet in advance of the vessel, one of those enemies of the fly- ing-fish, the dolphin. Watch him as his lithe body cleaves the water with hardly a perceptible motion of the tail ; straight on he goes, never varying from his course. Re- turn here in an hour or even a day and you will find him in the same position as be- fore. Sometimes he darts away after a fish with the rapidity of lightning, only to re- 36 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES turn with equal rapidity and resume his former place. As the shark is called the bull- dog of the sea, so can the dolphin be char- acterized as its hound. Lithe and active in all his movements, he seems the personifi- cation of grace and power. The Alliance is now plowing her way through vast areas of yellow gulf weed, for we have reached the extreme edge of the stagnant pond of ocean called the "Sargasso Sea." The beautiful yellow of the weed cre- ates a marked contrast to the indigo blue of the water, but although the difference in colors is so sharply drawn yet they harmon- ize most perfectly. Nature, no matter how lavish and varied in her coloring, ever dresses with exquisite taste. These patches of weed are the homes of countless numbers of cuttle fish, zoophytes, mollusks, etc., while little crabs can be seen darting in all direc- tions as the vessel approaches. But let us join our fellow-voyagers and with them enjoy the unrivalled beauty of this our last day on the open ocean, for in a few hours we shall discern the blue cliffs of St. Thomas, rising from the Caribbean sea, and thereafter our course lies between rocky headlands and cane-covered hills of the Caribbee group of islands. 37 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES We find Major Sellers on the hurricane deck, surrounded as usual by an animated group who are laughing and talking about nothing in particular. "I wonder if monkeys are for sale in St. Thomas," said Fairwater, "because if they are I want to get one for my little nephew." "Monkey!" ejaculated Brown, "I believe I'll buy one, too." "I see you are all coming down with the monkey fever," laughed the major, "and I want to warn you before the disease gets thoroughly into the system, to let monkeys alone." "Why?" asked the bilious looking man from Connecticut. "Well, I'll relate my experience," an- swered the major, "and then you can always judge for yourselves." "Proceed," said Brown, "we are all at- tention." "Several years ago, "began the major, "when I was younger and had less experi- ence, I was making a voyage through the islands on the steamer Caribbee. I became acquainted with several very pleasant gen- tlemen, who, like myself, were bound for 38 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES New York, and we all anticipated an agree- able voyage. In an evil hour the ship land- ed at St. Kitt's, where monkeys are as plenti- ful as grasshoppers were in Kansas, and a bumboat came alongside with a full cargo. There were monkeys of all sizes, colors and ages; monkeys with ring tails, monkeys with straight tails, and monkeys with no tails at all. When we left that island eight of our party had monkeys, and, gentlemen, I regret to say, I was one of the eight. My monkey was of a sorrel color and had a mel- ancholy countenance and a ring tail. He was also bald-headed, which made him look religious, but I found, to my cost, that he was full of satan. I tied him in my state- room, and when I came back from dinner he had thrown my best boots overboard through the porthole, torn my nightshirt into strips and was smashing up a box of cigars which he had found in my valise. I was seized with a fierce desire to kick him, but he looked so innocent and child-like that I restrained myself. I subsequently regretted that I hadn't, for he got loose and dropped his basketful of excelsior through the skylight right down on the dining room table. I pursued him 39 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES all over the vessel and it finally cost me two dollars to hire a sailor to bring him down from the mast-head. During the last day of our voyage we brought our monkeys on deck, preparatory to boxing them up for shipment. It being quite chilly they im- mediately rushed together to keep warm and there was soon a chattering ball of mon- keys tangled into an intricate knot with eight excited gentlemen pulling at as many different chains. It was highly amusing to the spectators, I can assure you. I gave his bald-headed highness to my sister's little boy, and she didn't speak to me for more than six months, and I don't blame her. " There was a prolonged silence after the major's narrative was finished, and then Mr. Brown said, "Well, all the monkeys that I buy after this will be stuffed ones." And we echoed his sentiments. While we sit laughing and talking, the hours fly by, the sun, sinking lower and lower, changes from gold to orange and from orange to red until it enlarges into a huge ball of fire, almost ready to quench its flames in the distant sea. Suddenly, the cry of land is heard and im- mediately everyone is aroused to activity 40 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES and becomes eager to catch a glimpse of terra firma, for when one has been sailing many days on the ocean, surrounded by a vast, unlimited waste of heaving water, with nothing to break the monotonous hor- izon, not even the smoke of a steamer or the sail of a ship, the first sight of land is an event not to be passed by with contempt. Turning our glasses in the direction indi- cated, the chain of mountains forming the eastern end of Porto Rico is faintly visible. The distant peaks seem only a misty purple cloud lying on the bosom of the water, but as the sun suddenly sinks behind their sum- mits a golden band of light bounds for an instant their towering crests until our lin- gering gaze is closed by night. In an hour the black outlines of St. Thomas loom up dead ahead and just as soon as the moon is rising over the bluffs, which gird its harbor, our anchor sinks with a splash to the bot- tom, leaving us eagerly awaiting the com- ing morn. St. Thomas is a picturesque little city, sit- uated on the bight of a beautiful bay, al- most surrounded by mountains. Its houses painted white, almost without an excep- tion, stand sharply outlined against the dark 41 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES green foliage of the mountain side. Being a great commercial center, ships of every nationality float in its harbor and when at night the myriads of twinkling lights from the vessels send their rays dancing across the water and luna lends her softening light to the scene ; when nothing is heard but the sullen booming of the surf on the break- water, or the occasional chime of bells from a distant ship, one wonders if a prettier picture can be found the world over. St. Thomas belongs to Denmark, and the Unit- ed States coquetted with the Danish gov- ernment for some time with the object of buying the island for a coaling station. For such a purpose it presents many facilities and is almost impregnable from a naval bombardment, but at certain seasons of the year it is hot and unhealthy, owing to de- ficient drainage, and the encircling moun- tains. In fact, Kingsley says that "it is a veritable Dutch oven for cooking fever in, with as veritable a dripping pan to catch the poison when concocted in the tideless basin below the town." There are several large coal docks at St. Thomas where men-of-war, merchant ves- sels, and tramps can take on a fresh supply 42 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES of fuel on their voyage to and from New York and South American ports. The coal- ing is done entirely by women, strong, bare- footed, loud voiced wenches they are, too, dressed in a single garment of calico reach- ing to their knees, with perhaps a bandana tied carelessly around the head. To and fro they go, singing, shouting and uttering lan- guage too foul for pen to write or tongue to repeat. Imagine a number of these women in close Indian file, each with a huge bas- ket of coal poised on her head, walking to- ward the ship imagine a similar line issu- ing from it with empty baskets, and so on, in endless rotation, which can only be likened to the ceaseless circling of the cups on an elevator belt, and you will have a fair pic- ture of the scene. Frequently, a buxom lady of color, comelier than her sisters, will step out of the line and begin an uncouth dance for the edification of the passengers, whom she asks to "please fling a copper, massa." Christmas, New Year's and Easter are great fete days with these people, and at such times rum flows as freely as water, in fact, more freely, for year before last rum sold for ten cents a gallon and water fifteen condition of things to delight the heart 43 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES of the veriest old soaker in Christendom. When a steamer warps up to the dock on a dark Christmas night, the passengers im- agine they are on the threshold of Pluto's dark abode, and that all his imps have come to give them welcome. For at such a time a drunken, reeling crowd of brutes (I can- not call them human beings) swarm under the flickering light of the large flambeaux of coal; fighting, cursing, lying in all condi- tions of drunkenness and debauchery, their condition appeals to heaven. Here is the missing link in the mighty chain of evolu- tion; these are the humanized apes of Charles Darwin; the relations of the gorilla at the London Zoo. The next morning, while I stand watch- ing a wool-pulling pugilistic encounter be- tween two of these Amazon chimpanzees, an idea suddenly strikes my mind which causes me to hurry to my stateroom and be- gin fumbling in my trunk for an article pre- viously provided for this very occasion. When I return to the deck with a hook about seven inches long with a foot of stout chain attached to it, there is blood on the moon, and the party of men, one and all, know that a sharking bee is imminent. If you 44 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES want to rejuvenate a lot of old grandfathers, take them to St. Thomas and start a shark hunt, and you will have them acting like a pack of school boys in less than five min- utes. Brown hurried below to borrow a strong rope of the boatswain, .Fairwater dragged his six feet three away in search of a piece of plank to act as a cork, while Mr. A. undertook to provide several pounds of salt pork as bait. Finally, all was in readi- ness and away went rope, hook, plank and bait over the vessel's side into the water, while the men took positions along the line, ready to haul in anything from a shark to a salamander. How we watched that plank as it floated away from the vessel's side. Major Sellers, as he slowly paid out the line, said that it made him feel just as if he were in a dent- ist's chair waiting for a tooth to be drawn. Five minutes, ten, a quarter of an hour; en- thusiasm began to wane. Bets were freely offered that there wasn't a shark within ten miles of St. Thomas. Mr. Brown sang a song, ending with "the shark he laughed as he spat out the cue and said for a heathen Chinee, you'll do." But, suddenly, a dark triangular fin cuts the water and glides swift- 45 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES ly toward the spot where the bait is swirl- ing and eddying in the easy tide. Down goes bait, hook and all, while his sharkship starts complacently away in search of more tidbits. The line tightens, strains, and there is a prodigious splash accompanied by a jerk which fairly makes our arms crack in their sockets and we realize that the fight is on. By this time everybody on board is eager- ly watching the sport and we of the line know that it is now or never, and that we must knuckle down to business if we desire the laurel wreath of victory to encircle our curling locks (that is, those of us who are not bald-headed). "Give her more slack," shouts the major, as the rope buzzes through our hands, car- rying with it pieces of cuticle of various sizes and dimensions. "Snub her! snub her!" yells Alum, danc- ing around in wild excitement, the perspira- tion streaming from his face. "Now for a long, strong pull, and alto- gether, she's going to run," shouts Fairwa- ter, bracing himself for a great effort, but she doesn't run, she turns and comes swing- ing back with a celerity that sends every mother's son of us off his feet onto the deck. 46 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES Fairwater's feet strike the Frenchman in the back with the catapultic force of a roan mule's heels. Mr. Alum receives a black eye from an unknown elbow, while the stout man deposits his two hundred and fifty pounds squarely on Brown's stiff hat. But then we don't mind such little trifles, "light as air" (but of course I don't classify the stout man as a trifle by a large majority). The shark continues to rush back and forth, raising the water into billows and lashing them into foam with his tail, but we notice that his efforts are growing weak- er and our courage increases accordingly. We pull and haul with renewed vigor and slowly, but surely, the monster begins to give ground; foot by foot the rope comes in while Mr. A. stands ready to put a bullet in his brain at the first opportunity. Turn- ing and rolling, striking out vigorously now and then in a last dash for liberty, our cap- tive is gradually hauled alongside, his eyes glittering with a baleful glare, his huge jaws grinding viciously against the iron chain ; no wonder he is called the scourge of the sea. Mr. A. seizes a favorable moment, the bullet drives home, a titanic convulsion fol- lows, the water is hurled in all directions, 47 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES the waves swirl and eddy under the power- ful blows; but nature is at last exhausted, a calm succeeds the storm and, as the shark rises to the surface, turning his glistening belly toward the sky in token of surrender, a crowd of perspiring men stand on the Al- liance's deck, and, as they wipe their stream- ing faces, congratulate each other on the result of their first shark hunt. The shark was of the white or man-eater variety and measured seventeen feet, nine inches from the tip of his tail to the bony projecting snout. I tried to hire a darky to tow the carcass ashore and cut out the jaws for mounting as a curiosity, but he said it would take three months properly to cure them, so I had to abandon the plan. However, there are plenty to be purchased in St. Kitt's al- ready prepared and I shall buy one there. Every man who helped catch that shark will probably buy one also and eventually the St. Thomas shark will be transformed into quintiplets, for of course every owner of a shark's jaw will brag about how he caught the shark that wore it, after an exciting struggle in St. Thomas harbor. This re- calls to remembrance the man who didn't believe in the New Testament, because all the apostles were fishermen. 48 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES St. Thomas being a free port of entry, many articles can be purchased for about one-quarter the price paid in the states. Light clothing, wines, cigars and bay rum are particularly cheap, while sufficient mo- lasses rum, or kill-devil, as it is called, can be had for a quarter, to stampede a whole reservation of western Indians. We are not sorry when our anchor is lifted from its muddy bed and the Alliance steams out between the rocky shoals which guard the entrance to the harbor. Once more we are bowling along over the sea, through the balmy morning air which breathes anticipation of a lovely day. The eye continues to be charmed by the sapphire blue of the water which vies with the sky in richness of hue. Long lines of distant mountains lift their cloud capped summits to the sky ; some near at hand, their purple masses outlined against the horizon; others more distant, blending their misty forms with the sea and sky. We are now on the waters over which Columbus sailed on his second voyage, four hundred years ago, when only the savage Carib plied his canoe from shore to shore 49 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES and was sole lord and owner of these sum- mer islands. The fate of the Caribs is a sad one and deserves commiseration; what if they were cannibals and savages; they greeted Columbus with kindness and show- ered food and presents upon his followers, only to be repaid with enslavement and death. Aroused to revolt by torture and misery, they poured forth their blood on the land of their fathers and retreated from is- land to island fighting in fierce opposition against the encroachment of the greedy Spaniard until but a mere remnant remains of a once numerous and powerful nation. The great navigator was the first to enslave these people in order to recoup his dimin- ished finances and hence a blot will always stain the history of an otherwise honored name. The famous pirate Blackbeard haunted these waters for many years and short was the shrift and quick the fate of any unfortu- nates who fell into his hands. Walking the plank, shooting his victims from the cannon mouth or dragging them astern as bait for shark were common amusements for this bloody terror of the "Spanish Main." Black- beard is supposed to have buried countless 50 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES treasures on numerous islands and they are vigorously sought for but without success. Mark Twain says that when he was a child he used to wonder, if he was a good boy and said his prayers every night and went to Sunday school regularly, if God would permit him to be a pirate on the Mis- sissippi river when he grew old enough. My mind, too, used to be agitated by similar desires, but the one absorbing ambition of my life was to be a bold, bad buccaneer and, like Blackbeard, "sail the Spanish Main when the wind piped free'o." He was al- ways pictured in the penny horribles as a man of medium height, and with a long black beard, fierce mustachios, and piercing black eyes. His photograph shows him wearing four pistols, two cutlasses, two dirks and a knife. The only meritorious fea- ture of his life was his perseverance in ex- terminating the murderous Spaniard whose track is traced in innocent blood over all this fair country. "O, Christianity, what crimes have been committed in thy name," when thousands of human beings have been treacherously massacred under sanction of the church, be- cause, forsooth, they were pagans. Colonel 51 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES Bob Ingersoll once said that it was exceed- ingly unfortunate that this country was dis- covered under the auspices of Spain. The Spaniards came to America and destroyed two civilizations better than their own, and that they were natural robbers, buccaneers, and scrupled not at murdering thousands for gold. The next morning we are awakened by a perfect babel of voices alongside and hurry on deck to find ourselves quietly riding at anchor in the beautiful roadstead of St. Kitt's with lofty Mt. Misery lifting his head among the clouds for his early morning bath. In this moisture laden air everything seems to be clothed by kindly nature with a mantle of green; green of every shade, from the bright hue of the cane to the dark olive of the coffee plant. Nestling at the foot of the mountains, the morning sun glis- tening on its snowy houses and painted roofs, lies the village of Basse Terre. Groves of cocoanut trees and tapering aloes are dis- tinguished amid the tropical profusion of trees and plants, while the smoke from the sugar mills, rises in bluish wreaths on the mountain side. We step to the vessel's side and look 52 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES down into the water; it is as clear as crys- tal and one can readily see to a depth of thirty or forty feet. Myriads of bright col- ored fishes are swimming about, the sun- light glittering from their silvery sides; oc- casionally, there is a sudden scattering as the dark body of a shark passes through their midst one can see the ferocious mon- ster as plainly as if he were floating in air. At a distance a bonito suddenly breaks wa- ter and goes skipping across the surface of the bay with a pelican in hot pursuit. On the other side of the vessel is a crowd of bumboat men and women, shouting, fight- ing, quarreling and jostling each other in a manner that would put to shame a delega- tion of proverbial Niagara Falls hackmen. Fruit-vendors, basket-makers, washerwom- en, longshoremen, fishermen, produce-huck- sters and sellers of shells, geographical spec- imens, monkeys and parrots mingle promis- cuously, the gaudy headgear and bright cal- ico dresses of the women making a scene which can only be described as variegated, like an assortment of garden flowers. The flotilla of boats rise and fall on the easy swell, each man trying to secure as advan- tageous a position as possible for his little 53 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES craft in which are tempting arrays of fruit and flowers, such as cocoanuts, sugar cane, pineapples, mangoes, sour-sops, roses, lilies, orchids, and so forth. It would tax the ca- pacity of a phonographer to record the med- ley of sounds that are hurled at us as we step to the vessel's side. Amid the general clamor such phrases are heard as "Massa's gwine ashore in de White Swan" (the White Swan, be it understood, is anything but white, and would have been better named the Black Swan). "Go 'way man, massa doan want your boat, he gwine take de Champagne Char- lie." "De Abraham Linkum right heah, sah," yells an ancient looking colored man, appeal- ing to our patriotism. "Nice fruit! Get your fruit." "Ga way, niggah ! Massa doan want fruit ; he want dis nice little monkey heah." "Get outen de way wile I takes dis lubly green parrot to marster." "I break you black head, niggah." "Dis basket for two shillins and a penny for de baby," shouts a big fat aunty, fran- tically waving a bamboo basket in one hand and a chubby black baby in the other. 54 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES (Whether she meant to sell the baby for a penny or demanded a penny as a gift to the baby, was never clearly understood.) Fairwater and Brown fought shy of mon- keys, but Mr. Alum was inveigled into buy- ing a parrot which made his life miserable by screaming and chattering until it choked to death trying to swallow a brass collar button. Miss Gush purchased two little love-birds or parroquets and the French gentleman se- cured a dyspeptic-looking ape, but one of the love-birds got away and the ape caught and ate the other, so all that remains of our menagerie after all is the ape, and he doesn't look robust. After luncheon Major Sellers suggested a drive around the island, so we all embarked in the "White Swan," and went ashore. As we pulled away from the Alliance, the men began to keep time to their oars with the song of Darkey sing and pull away'o, Darkey sing and pull away'o, Darkey sing and pull away'o, Darkey sing and pull away'o, During our trip across, our captain of the White Swan a garrulous old fellow 55 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES with a skin as black as ebony, told us all the news, from the state of the weather to the queen's health, and among other things that his name was Felix McGinnis. "I told him I was glad to learn that we were of the same nationality, as I was Irish myself. The old man seemed half inclined to think that I was poking fun at him, and made a remark to that effect, but Major Sellers came to my rescue. "Why, Captain McGinnis," said the in- genuous major, "O'Thello, the dusky hero of Shakespeare's muse, was an Irishman, as you can see by his name; you must eradi- cate this erroneous and superfluous ambigui- ty from your protoplasmical cranial anato- my instantanteously." Felix slowly scratched his head, as if par- tially convinced and said, "Dat idea come to me before, sah, but I couldn't edjackly made it predicate." Our arrival at the wharf was witnessed by a battalion of hucksters and children (the latter generally being in undress uni- form). They crowded around us and com- mented freely and audibly on our appear- ance, as if seemingly oblivious of our pres- ence. This unmannerly habit is common 56 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES in all the islands, being due to good-natured curiosity rather than viciousness. Some of the remarks that reached our ears were not only laughable, but a little embarrassing as well. "Look at dat lady wid de red bunnit, speck she pay a heap for it." "Dat man mighty tall for dat little wom- an." "See dat fat genleman; Lawdy, how he a sweaten." "What the mattah wid dat man's laigs, pear like he can't walk good?" and so forth all along our route to the carriages. Leaving the rabble behind we were soon bowling along through the narrow streets of Basse Terre, catching now and then a glimpse of a dramshop or the sailor's so- called paradise, where night turns into day and day into night a hell hole covered with the somber mantle of darkness, the favorite garb of sin. As we pass the suburban residences the graceful bamboo and nodding aloe beckon to us over the walls as if to invite our fur- ther inspection of their beauties, but so many strange and novel sights, such a pro- fusion of flora greets our eyes that we are 57 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES kept constantly bobbing about from side to side as a new flower or fruit attracts our at- tention. Gradually ascending the mountain- side time passes unheeded and we are not aware of our position until a sudden turn in the road brings us into view of such a scene of tropic loveliness as seldom greets the eye of man. Spread out before us were forest-covered hills as green with creeping plant and tangled vine as only torrid sun and moisture can color them. A row of stately cocoanut trees lined the place where sloping hill and sparkling wave of ocean met. Blue peaks of distant islands lay all around, some near, some breaking the mo- notony of a waste of waters. Two lofty mountains towered above us, one piled up- on the other as Ossa upon Pelion, which position suggested to Columbus the name he bestowed upon the island, St. Christo- pher, bearing the Infant Christ. On the leeward side of St. Kitt's is Brim- stone Hill, a great boulder or rock several hundreds of feet high, and often called the Gibraltar of America, owing to its impreg- nable position. Once strongly fortified, it is now abandoned and its deserted case- ments have been appropriated by battalions 58 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES of monkeys that probably make a much more orderly and moral garrison than the former occupants. This monkey fortress differs very little from one under human domination if, in- deed, one can make the distinction "human" between monkey and man. They have their foraging parties and their pickets, their gen- erals and captains. Discipline is strictly en- forced, affairs of the state are lengthily dis- cussed; in fact if Prof. Garner were here he could probably interpret a weighty debate relative to the "banana bill," or a measure appropriating five-hundred wall-eyed cocoa- nut trees for a monkey insane asylum. In the early morning hours, if one will hide in a cane-field or thicket, he will witness the sally of a foraging party in its descent on the outlying plantations, in search of the succulent banana and other toothsome fruits. Suddenly, from over a stone casement will appear the leader of the party, a venerable patriarch with a head wrinkled like a wal- nut and wearing an Oscar Wilde cast of countenance. After looking carefully about as if satisfied with the tranquil aspect of things he will lazily scratch a fiea from his ear with his left hind leg and, wrapping the 59 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES end of his tail around a rusty spike, lower himself hand over hand, down a twisted vine, followed by the whole monkey cohort. Kokomo, the commander in chief and presi- dent of the monkey republic, is a grizzled veteran of great knowledge and experience. He has been wounded in every part of his body by enraged planters but still lives to lend his advice to younger and rasher heads. But I fear that in pursuing this subject of anthropoid history, I am consuming val- uable time, for every one desires to learn about the lazaretto or leper hospital. Let us follow our winding road a little farther down the coast and we shall come to a house of dismal aspect girded by a high stone wall, inclosing ten or fifteen acres. The silence of death rests here and people in passing grow solemn as if in the presence of death. Even the plant-life seems stunted and the uniform luxuriant vegetation of the tropics recedes from the place as if con- trolled by influences akin to those which agi- tate the human breast. They who enter in come not out, immured within these walls, cut off from friends, torn from those beloved, what burden of sorrow untold must rest up- on the breast. What grief that, like a can- 60 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES ker, groweth at the heart ! Appreciate, those who can, the fearful suffering of Terzah and her mother so vividly portrayed in Ben-hur, isolated for life, enrapt in the darkness of the grave. Would that the illusion of Christ were true, that he might tear aside the bonds of these poor wretches as he is made to do in the creation of Gen. Lew Wallace. Let chronology be deranged and time put back six months that the reader may hear a story as related to us by a priest of the Catholic church, as we all sat in our carri- ages over-looking the place where the events of his story had taken place. The father's tale related to one of those pathetic inci- dents so common the wide world over where maternal love sacrifices a mother's all on the altar of her children. The narrative was widely fraught with mournful remem- brances, and the father's voice was sad and low. In one of the rural districts of St. Kitt's, near the spot where old Mt. Misery rears his jagged summit toward the sky, a little cabin, as if conscious of its insignificance, lies snugly tucked away under a protecting ledge of one of those green hills, which rise so proudly from the bosom of the sea. Vines 61 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES of gorgeous flora drop their tendrils from the ledge above, while others clamber up the rough board walls to greet and twine about their comrades. Trees of various fruitages stand close about the place, while the towering cocoanut keeps sentinel with- out and the banana reaches its broad leaves across the roof to gossip with the whisper- ing aloe. In the shady bower, beneath this maze of vegetation, one can hear the music of a mountain rill, as it leaps from ledge to ledge, on its way to join the sea below. Birds of brilliant plumage of varied hue pass through the checkered sunlight beneath the trees, while the little chameleon of many col- ors peeps saucily out from leafy covert or mossy banks. In such a climate nature seems to sleep, the senses are lulled, the very air is full of soporific influences, the active energy of the north gives place to an inde- finable sense of rest and life moves along like a placid river with scarcely a ripple to disturb the quiet of its surface. Within this peaceful cottage there dwelt a widow and her only child, a son of eighteen. The blood of four races flowed through their veins. The French mingling with the Span- ish, the English dyed by the deep, red blood 62 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES of the ancient Carib. A certain refinement imparted by the father, kept them aloof from their coarser neighbors, and only knit more strongly the bond between mother and son. Living in such simple seclusion and in a climate where nature is so bountiful, their wants were few and easily supplied. The lad fished and dove for bits of coral and curious shells. The mother watched the house and busied herself about those little domestic duties so necessary to a cheerful home. One day, at the commencement of that sea- son when the rain descends in torrents, and sun and moisture conspire to force the won- derful growth so unfamiliar north, the boy noticed a small white patch faintly outlined against the dusky background of his arm. Time passed, the patch grew larger, a vague, uncertain dread possessed his mind ; he often gazed lovingly at his mother, caressing her less frequently, and often musing for hours at a time, when alone with his melancholy thoughts. Then came a day of suffering such as the little cabin had never witnessed. The visit of the health inspector, his discov- ery of the boy's condition ; the truth burst- ing upon the bewildered senses of the mother. What a sound for sympathetic 63 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES ears, to hear that mother cry out as she flung herself on her son's neck: "My son, my only child, my baby, a leper!" The physician tried to soothe the grief- stricken parent, telling her how necessary it was to the welfare of the community that her son should be isolated, telling her how easy it was to contract the disease by acci- dentally introducing offensive scales into a slight cut or wound. As the doctor's last words reached her ear and their meaning became plain, a sudden light broke over her countenance, then her features hardened with a determination that bore the sem- blance of resignation. She became more cheerful at once and eagerly begged that Francois might be allowed to rest within the cottage one more day. That night, as the moon feebly strove to penetrate the tan- gled thicket before the house and the trees sent grotesque shadows dancing across the sward, the mother arose and walked softly to where her son lay tossing on his couch, mindful even in sleep of his dismal fate and the separation of tomorrow. She stooped and kissed his fevered brow, touched the polluted arm with unshrinking hand, a knife flashed dimly in the moonlight, as the mother 64 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES gashed herself. Then she stole softly to her chamber and fell on her knees, praying for forgiveness and for Francois and her- self that they should be together. Time passed and Francois had been sev- eral months inside the huge stone walls which enclose so hideous an ulcer amid such surrounding loveliness. The ponderous iron gate had closed behind, burying him from the world. The mother remained in the little cabin waiting patiently, hoping, praying that she might be permitted to join Francois. One morning her hopes were realized. A faint spot appeared on her arm; she cried aloud for joy, and kissed the place in her happiness, thankful that at last she, too, was a leper. Down the winding road one morn- ing came the mother, her face aglow with expectation. No thought of self, of friends, of freedom, disturbed the calmness of her soul. Her son, her child, was the one ab- sorbing subject of her mind. She reached the place, the heavy gate swung back, a hideous muffled figure bade her enter. "Where is Francois, where is my son?" she was heard to cry. The answer came in sep- ulchral tones from the loathsome warden, "Francois died two days ago and is buried." 65 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES The gate swung heavily on its hinges, the bolt sank into place; further we may not enter. "Let us drive on," said Brown, "the air is stifling," and we drove on. We left St. Kitt's that evening and steamed regretfully away on our course to Martinique. The sun was just setting as we lifted anchor. With disc-like battle target red, He rushes to his fiery bed, Dyes the wild wave with bloody light, Then sinks at once and all is night. And so it is for there is no twilight in the tropics after the sun sets there is a period of intense darkness during which, "Silently, one by one in the infinite mea- dows of heaven, blossom the lovely stars ; the forget-me-nots of the angels." Then comes the moon the glorious moon of the tropics, not the northern moon or any re- lation to it, but a big round ball of melting light which floods mountain and sea with its softened brilliance and sends the stars back to their places with diminished luster. As our party grouped themselves on the steamer's deck that evening and lazily re- clined in their steamer chairs nothing 66 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES seemed wanting to perfect the night or add to the beauty of a scene as weird, lovely and enchanting as nature can make it. The la- dies watched the silver-tipped clouds rest- ing against the tall summit of Nevis, watch- ed the changing shadows on its river sides and grew sentimental. The gentlemen gazed silently at the smoke curling upward from their cigars traced the broad shadows of the mountain spread darkly out across the bay noticed the moonlight sparkling like a thousand jewels on the rippling water and grew religious. Some prefer to worship in a house built by the hand of man, others worship nature. In that cathedral boundless as our wonder, Whose quenchless lamps the sun and moon supply, Its choir the wind and waves, its organ, thunder, Its dome, the sky. There are any number of people whose eyes will fill with tears at the sight of a dried bone said to have formerly belonged to the anatomy of a saint this is called piety. There are others whose emotions will overmaster them at the foot of Niaga- ra's mighty cataract and who look no fur- ther for a deity this is designated as infi- 67 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES delity. Presently one of our party steals away and soon the soft prelude to that beau- tiful song, "Evening Hymn To The Vir- gin," is heard floating up from the salon below. We are just in the mood to appre- ciate both the music and words: Ave sanctissima we lift our souls to thee, Ora pro nobis 'tis nightfall on the sea, Watch us while shadows lie, Far o'er the waters spread, Hear the heart's lonely sigh, Thine too hath bled. Thou, that hast looked on death, Aid us when death is nigh, Whisper of heaven's faith, Sweet mother, sweet mother, hear, Ora pro nobis the waves shall rock our sleep, Ora mater, ora star of the deep. It is growing late as the last sweet strains die away and the ladies retire to their sev- eral state-rooms. I hunt an easy chair be- tween the stout gentleman and the major and make a remark to the latter relative to the beauty of the night. Alas, I am greet- ed by an unmistakable snore! I turn to my left for consolation shade of morpheus ! he too is en concert. I give up in despair, throw my head back in the chair, take a last look at the moon's meek face and join the chorus. So we slept. 68 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES Old Sol got up early the next morning, shook the sea-water from his face and sent his rays across the top of Dominica directly into our faces. The air came from the is- land laden with the fragrant odor of tropi- cal fruits and flowers. "Gentlemen, this is glorious," said the ma- jor, rubbing his eyes. "There we went to sleep last night listening to sweet sounds, caressed by the balmy air, and rocked in old ocean's lap ; this morning the sun smiles upon us, we drink in the healthful ozone and (at this juncture a flying fish arose from the sea and flew directly into the ma- jor's lap) here," continued he, "is food to our hand." "Let us go below," quoth Brown, "and make our early morning observations through the ship's glasses," and we staid not on the order of our going. Martinique is the most healthful of all the Caribbee Islands, its vegetation is greener, its mountains more imposing, its cliffs more jagged and its streams fall in glittering cas- cades down the mountain sides. Martinique is celebrated as the birth-place of the Em- press Josephine, whose praises have been sung by innumerable historians. Martinique 69 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES is noted for its beautiful botanical garden or Jardin des Plantes, its chocolate and its ven- omous serpent, the fer de lance. If one wishes to visit a strange, delightful place, a place associated with many romantic me- moirs, a place of indolent enjoyment apart from the world let him come to Martinique. Here he will have his black coffee brought to his bed-side at seven, he will breakfast at nine, bathe in the fountaine chaud at eleven, luncheon at two, take his siesta at three and dine when the hours strike eight what a truly delightful schedule of time for one who is not in vigorous pursuit of the almighty dollar. But to our party these pleasures are as yet in perspective for the Alliance has just anchored and we are be- ing rowed to shore as fast as the strokes of four black fellows will propel us. The fates kindly deliver me from any further acquaintance with crowds on the wharves of West Indies Islands. It is bad enough at St. Kitt's where English is spoken, but to be surrounded by a babbling crowd of French negroes who launch their unintel- ligible polyglot into your face is infinitely worse. We finally escape with our lives and are driven to the Hotel des Raines. 70 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES St. Pierre, the principal city of Marti- nique, lies at the bend of a broad bay backed by tall mountains. Most of the streets run at right angles to the shore line and grad- ually ascend the mountain side as they re- treat from the water. Down each street rushes a sparkling stream of water fresh from the mountains a stream acting as water pipe, sewer pipe, wash-tub, bath-tub and a host of other conveniences peculiar to Martiniquans. The dusky matrons of St. Pierre do their washing in the middle of the street before their own vine and fig tree while the little pickaninnies paddle in the stream with the geese and learn to swim about as soon as they can walk. The Mar- tinique blanchieuse has a peculiar way of doing business ; she takes a shirt, spreads it out on a flat rock in the stream and, seat- ing herself before it, proceeds to maul the life out of it with a wooden club. This may be an effectual way of cleaning it, but it is hard on the shirt; in fact, all the owner ever gets back of his shirt is the bosom and a few broken buttons. These mountain streams are one of the most unique features of St. Pierre and rank it among the cleanest cities of the world. One is refreshed by 71 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES the very sound of their waters rippling mer- rily down to the sea while the delightful coolness imparted by the mountain temper- ature, creates a longing to climb the hill side and take a dip in a secluded pool amid tropical vegetation. St. Pierre is a typical French village trans- ported to Martinique and it loses nothing by the change in location. The silks, laces, perfumes and wines of France are found in its shops nothing but French is spoken on the streets, while the people are imbued with those polite manners so charming to the senses of a foreigner. Many years ago when sugar was king and when to own a plantation was to have a fortune, St. Pierre was the abode of wealth and luxury. The planters often had as many as a thousand slaves whose labor enabled their masters to live a life of the most in- dolent pleasure. All that has passed; cane- sugar has come into competition with beet- sugar, the slaves are free, the plantations heavily mortgaged and the growth of cane unprofitable. About the most striking building in St. Pierre is the Catholic cathedral. Seen from the water it presents a beautiful sight with 72 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES the sun reflected from its many spires and towers. When the chimes ring out and are echoed back from the cliffs the effect is very pleasant to the ear, especially if one is out on the bay. The people of Martinique are good catholics, for in no other religion can the negro find the pomp and pageantry which so gratifies his love of display as in the ceremonials of Catholicism. One is im- pressed by the numerous shrines and images of the virgin placed in sheltered nooks and grottos by the wayside. All passers-by, from the ancient negroes tottering to market with a bunch of plantains, to the fisher boys making their rounds, will pause before these sacred shrines and reverently murmur a prayer. When the tourist tires of wandering through the narrow streets and becomes wearied of eating fruit and bon-bons of freshly made chocolate let him inquire his way to the Jardin des Plantes and spend an hour of enjoyment amid its arbors of palms and aloes. Here are to be found shining lakes and splashing fountains shaded by trees of endless variety. Cocoanut, date, sago, cabbage, and groo-groo palms are on all sides, while amid their branches are 73 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES thrust those of the mahogany, rosewood, nutmeg, clove, banana and orange. Aquatic plants in great profusion spread their broad leaves on the bosom of the lake the glori- ous Victoria regia side by side with the Egyptian lotus, while both are surrounded by a perfect galaxy of lilies. Perhaps the eye may rest upon a mam- moth ceiba and following the gigantic trunk skyward until the mighty coronal is reached, is feasted by the sight of an aerial garden nearly a hundred feet above ground. Clothed with vines, swarming with vegetable para- sites, covered with orchids of fastastic forms, one sees a forest within a single tree an aviary of brilliant birds a home for count- less insects. A tall and stately mile tree stands near this giant and its graceful branches seem to glean protection from their towering neighbor. Before lowering the eyes to prosaic earth again one may slightly turn and behold the form of Montague Pe- lee rearing his head four thousand feet amid the clouds. Turning into the garden the morning after our arrival I squared myself on a settee and began to breathe in the piquant odor of the spice trees. 74 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES "If monsieur desire, it gives me much of pleasure to bring monsieur a lemonade ga- zense." I turn quickly and behold a lad of ten gazing expectantly into my face. The only clothing in his possession consists of a hat minus the crown and a tolerably well pre- served vest several sizes too large for him. "Le limonade est delightful I can assure monsieur; does it please monsieur for to partake?" I nod my head and his little black legs carry him quickly away, whither I know not. His ebony form soon re-appears, how- ever, bearing a tray nicely poised on his woolly head. "Would monsieur have a biscuit? Was there sufficient of ice for monsieur?" I indicate my entire satisfaction with the refreshment, which is a drink manufactured in St. Pierre and made of fresh limes, sugar- cane juice, and carbonic acid water. "Did monsieur wish to buy a monkey, a parrot or a snake skin?" "No !" "Well, then, monsieur would surely de- sire to see him stand on his head on the back of the settee." 75 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES I glance quickly around to see if any one is near, for I do not like the idea of figuring in a ridiculous tableau whereof the princi- pal feature is a boy standing on his head on the back of a settee with nothing on but a vest. However, all is clear and I signal to go ahead, but Jean's vest slips down over his head, he loses his balance and a perfect landslide of arms, legs and vest settles plump into the tray. A loud laugh follows and looking around I see Major Sellers and Brown doubled up on a neighboring settee in convulsions of mirth. I settle with Jean for two francs and it costs me two more to propitiate Brown and the major. Luncheon before pleasure, refreshment previous to exertion; man can no more en- joy the beauties of nature on an empty stomach than he can be cheerful and happy with a boil on the back of his neck such were the sentiments of our party as we sat smoking, in front of the hotel, after having lunched a la francais in a manner to satisfy the most fastidious disciple of Epicurus. Jean was there and asked les messieurs kind- ly to permit him to conduct them up the mountain side to le fountaine chaud where messieurs could bathe. 76 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES Jean was better clad than in the morning, for, in addition to his voluminous vest and crownless hat, his feet were incased in what, by a polite stretch of the imagination, might be called shoes. Each shoe gaped at the toe like the mouth of a Mississippi catfish, while Jean's mouth, probably in sympathy with his shoes, gaped also, disclosing a cavity of uncertain depth filled with the whitest of teeth. "As for me," said the major, "I am in favor of following Jean and taking a dip in the famous fountain." "It will be far more interesting to visit the hospital and examine the cases of ele- phant leg and jaws," suggested Mr. Alum, the microbe man. A ballot was taken which clearly sup- ported the major and relegated Mr. Alum and his morbid proposal to the background by a decided majority. Exactly half an hour later we were on our way up the moun- tain, under the leadership of our coffee-col- ored conductor. As we passed an image of the Virgin, embowered by a profusion of vines and blossoms, Jean reverently mum- bled a prayer. 77 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES "For whom do you pray, Jean?" I asked. "I solicit the good mother that I may be able to kill the large red monkey which de- scends every night and plucks the fruit in grandmere's yard," was the sober answer. When you slip into the clear cool water of le fountaine chaud your impression is that you are floating in translucent oil. The waters caress and soothe, their buoyancy supports you, every ailment and pain de- parts and, as you lie on your back and gaze at the trees and clouds, you wonder if Ponce de Leon in all his vagaries ever imagined anything like this. There is a certain vir- tue in the water which renders the skin as soft as velvet, and seems to pluck rheuma- tism out by the roots. There is plenty of fun and frolic this afternoon among these old gentlemen, but then it only needs the right time and place to bring out the humor in a man whether he be sixteen or sixty. We are almost ready to depart when there is a sudden yell, the element is upheaved and the attenuated form of Fairwater emerges precipitately from the water with a crab clinging to his big toe. That settles it; we all scramble out and are soon roll- 78 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES ing along toward the hotel to prepare for dinner. The Empress Josephine was born in the little village of Forte de France, situated twelve miles from St. Pierre. The cabin where she first saw the light still stands, in spite of numerous earthquakes which have left it in a somewhat dilapidated con- dition. On account of a fire which destroyed the country mansion of Monsieur de la Pa- gerie, he and his family were forced to seek shelter in this lowly cabin and here Jose- phine was born. We were extremely fortunate in making the acquaintance of a fellow-traveler then residing on the island of Trinidad, whose father had lived at Fort de France in the time of Josephine. Monsieur Grandsaull was perfectly familiar with the history of the empress and to his entertaining anec- dotes and reminiscences, our party owes one of its most enjoyable days. Seated in the bateau, which was to con- vey us to Fort de France, I gave myself up to the enjoyments of the hour and set- tled comfortably back in the shade cast by the mainsail ready to listen to a poem by Miss Gush, a dissertation on microbes by 79 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES Alum or more preferably the descriptive chat of Monsieur Grandsaull. Sailing along this stretch of shore was truly delightful. At times the boat would pass beetling crags rising almost perpendic- ularly from the water; then the cliffs would suddenly slope, disclosing a pebbly beach lined with orchards of cocoa and palm trees. Occasionally, could be seen an image of the Virgin, placed in a sheltered nook far up the mountain, or perhaps the chime of a parish bell would echo lazily across the water from a sleepy hamlet. "Let me call your attention," said Mon- sieur Grandsaull, "to that massive rock ris- ing abruptly from the water directly ahead of us. That is Diamond Rock, four-hundred feet high and a half-mile in circumference. In 1804 Admiral Hood of the British Navy by almost superhuman exertions succeeded in getting five cannon to its top by means of hawsers. The following morning his ships were discovered and driven away, but not before the gallant admiral had stationed on the summit a garrison of one hundred and twenty men provisioned for four months. "During the following war this rock, which 80 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES became known as his majesty's ship Dia- mond Rock, proved a source of the utmost annoyance to the French, who struggled in vain to dislodge their foes. By the treaty, which closed the war, the English relin- quished Martinique and retired from their point of vantage, thus ending one of the most daring exploits known to West Indies history." Having sailed up the broad bay, we ap- proached the Trois Islands, landed and be- gan our pilgrimage to the shrine of one whose extravagant life would not seem to justify the unlimited praise bestowed upon her by enthusiastic historians. There is ground for the belief that Mon- sieur Talleyrand was right in his aspersions of her character, but the public demands unstinted praise for its idols, and historians must conform to public opinion or sink into oblivion. Jacob Abbot, in his life of the empress, was sadly confused as to dates and other items, for he solemnly states that Jose- phine's mother died shortly after the little child was born, showing conclusively that he had never visited Fort de France or seen the tombstone in the church-yard. We vis- 81 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES ited the marble statue of the empress which stands in the public square, and then were driven to the little cabin clothed in vines and surrounded by waving palms. The humble church was next visited where Jo- sephine and her mother came to worship. "In this church," said Monsieur Grand- saull, as we stood gazing curiously at the burning candles the virgin and holy basins, "in this pew my father first learned his prayers at the feet of Madame de la Pagerie who taught her little daughter at the same time." This was too much for Miss Gush. Her poetical soul was moved, her higher emo- tions were touched and she wept copiously, sighed deeply and talked affectedly. I had been feeling a little impressed myself, but my sensations were swept away by disgust and I went outside, bought a piece of sugar- cane for a cent and irreverently covered the pontifical vestibule with its splinters. We returned to St. Pierre that evening by moonlight and to say we enjoyed the night would but feebly express our appre- ciation of the time and place. The memory of Monsieur Grandsaull was replete with legends and memories of slavery days and 82 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES we received the full benefit of his thoughts. Next morning we were to sail for Bar- bados and I arose early to pass a brief hour on the streets of St. Pierre. Almost every one will remember an ac- count in the papers of the terrible hurri- cane which devastated Martinique in 1891, in which so many lives were lost and so much property destroyed. My walk led me through a part of the city which had re- ceived the full violence of the wind. The majority of the houses were badly shaken, with roofs gone and walls badly battered, while many were in ruins. Trees of all kinds were broken and twisted, while heavy pieces of wreckage, strewn about, gave evi- dence of the power of the gale. Fully forty vessels of various sizes and countries were blown ashore and their bones, bleaching on the beach, presented an almost human and rather melancholy spectacle. In a few months their old scars will be covered with a mass of vegetation and the hurried decay of the tropics will have concealed all traces of a storm in which perished six hundred people. Passing one of les petit magazines my at- tention was attracted by snake skins dis- 83 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES played in the window. They were those of the fer de lance, the deadly serpent of Mar- tinique. These venomous creatures are found only on the islands of Martinique and St. Lucia, a peculiarity for which the peo- ple of the other islands are very thankful. Hundreds of negroes are destroyed annual- ly by the pests, for they rather seek than avoid man, and one takes his life in his hands while going through a cane-field or jungle. Frederick A. Ober, whom I had the pleasure of meeting at Martinique, describes an encounter with the fer de lance in his delightful book "Camps In The Caribbees." Mr. Ober's book should be well thumbed by all tourists intending West Indies travel, for it is without doubt the best description of the Caribbee Islands yet written. Think- ing to examine more closely these little rep- tiles, I entered the shop and was glad I did for the proprietress was a typical Marti- nique belle. Her rounded figure was load- ed with gold and silver ornaments of every description and pattern. Like Tarpeia, she was crushed under a weight of jewels. Martinique women of color have ideas of the fashions, peculiarly their own. They must have a hand-painted bandana, general- 84 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES ly yellow, and their jewelry must be of the purest metal; they would scorn brass or plated ware. Besides this the dress must be caught up at the side, disclosing -a well trimmed ankle, au natural, while one arm and shoulder are exposed, Grecian style. A West Indies woman always walks graceful- ly and straight, for she generally goes bare- footed, as nature intended her to do, and her head carries whatever burden she has, be it a bushel of yams or a bunch of tooth- picks. "What did Monsieur desire ce matin, would it be un sachet ou un mouchier de lin?" Giving her to understand that it was only her bright eyes that had lured me, I seated myself and awaited the effect of my "bit o' blarney." A dusky blush overspread her face and thereafter I received the most as- siduous attention. Fact, when I arose to go, many curious articles were in my pos- session bits of pink coral, worth their weight in gold, shells, pieces of lace, and above all, a curious little bracelet of Hindu workmanship which I unclasped from her wrist, for a consideration. The whistles of the Alliance now began 85 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES to sound and with an "au revoir," I hur- riedly departed for the hotel to prepare for embarking. All were in readiness so we drove to the wharf and were soon leaving that loveliest of all the lovely islands which, in the words of Froude, "lie like a string of jewels round the neck of the beautiful Car- ibbean." As the glistening spires of St. Pierre melted in the distance I hoped that this would not be my last visit to Marti- nique, and that one day I should return to pass a few weeks of restful enjoyment in this quaint old West Indian town. The people of Martinique have a super- stition that if the traveler once sets foot on the shores of their island no matter where he may go thereafter or in what clime he may be he will return and end his days in what they rightly term "the earthly para- dise." May the fates so ordain with me. But let us turn the other way while ex- pectation banishes regret, for we are bound straight across the broad Atlantic toward the shores of Africa, not that we shall ever reach those shores, for right in our way lies that charming little spot of land known as Barbados and irreverently dubbed the "pan- cake island." 86 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES Bardados, being a coral island, is very low and, to quote one of the officers, "you can't see it till you're most aboard of it." That afternoon, as we stood on the vessel's bow, a bright ribbon of green suddenly appeared on the horizon. It widened and brightened until it seemed almost to leap from its bed in the amethyst sea to give us a welcome greeting. Stately palms and other trees be- gan to separate themselves from their emer- ald setting until the whole island rested be- fore us, presenting a view to ravish the heart of Robinson Crusoe or Bernardin de St. Pierre. As the Alliance swept gracefully around, seeking her anchorage in the local roadstead, our eyes were busy with a hun- dred objects of interest. Little houses, built of dazzling white coral, dotted the undulat- ing fields of cane, looking like pearls in an emerald setting. Lofty cocoanuts flung their coronals out from the shore as if pro- tecting the white waves of surf rushing tu- multuously toward their feet. Coming out to meet us from the wharf, were scores of bum-boat, fruit boats and canoes containing diving boys. Occasional- ly, in their mad rush for first place, a boat would capsize, leaving its owner flounder- 87 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES ing in the water amid the jeers of his com- rades. He would soon dive below, however, and, righting his boat with a dexterous movement, eagerly take up the pursuit. To right and left were vessels of all nationali- ties Chinese junks with high peak and bow, laden with rice, Norwegian, Swedish and American lumber vessels, schooners and sloops from Demarara and Trinidad, and British tramp steamers loading with sugar, while conspicuous among the others floated several men of war with spotless sails and shining brass-work. As I gazed around I could not help liken- ing this little island to a hive of bees, so thick were the cabins on its hills; in fact Barbados is the most densely inhabited spot of land on earth. Only twenty-one by four- teen miles, it supports a population of one- hundred and ninety thousand, which is more for its area than any particular spot in China. Lying about one hundred and fifty miles northeast of the Orinoco River, and to wind- ward of all the other islands, the trade winds sweep over its coralline shores, bringing health and coolness in its wake. With a temperature that never goes above eighty- six degrees or below seventy-seven, sum- 88 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES mer or winter, night or day, Barbados bold- ly claims the most even temperature in the world, and if any one is curious enough to examine a common school globe he will find that the isothermal lines for summer and winter meet in its vicinity. The name Bar- bados comes from the Portuguese who dis- covered the island and is evidently a corrup- tion of Las Barbados, the bearded, from the fact that so many of its trees have long mat- ted roots hanging from their branches. But lest this bit of prolixity should tire you let us walk to the other side of the ves- sel where Major Sellers and his satellites are amusing themselves by tossing coins in- to the water for the diving boys. Shades of Thetus and the water nymphs, what a ri- diculous spectacle ! For we are just in time to see two dozen black legs waving franti- cally in the air while a dozen woolly heads go down in a wild, indiscriminate scramble for a well-thrown penny. Up they come, eyes wide open, every feature and motion plainly seen in the crystalline water. With a careless flip of the head, to free the eyes from water, first one, then another black boy rises to the surface, eagerly solicitous for coppers. Amid a general scuffle and up- 89 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES roarious merriment, they stand treading water, keenly on the alert, black eyes snap- ping, and legs and arms going like a turtle's flippers. "Now," said the major, "every boy be ready and when I give the word, down you go, dive under the vessel's keel and the first one up on the other side gets a sixpence." Instantly, there is a prodigious splash- ing as each boy raises himself from the water and plunges beneath. Down! down! they go, squirming and wriggling, their bod- ies assuming a vivid green color until they disappear under the vessel nearly thirty-five feet below. We hurriedly rush to the other side and are just in time to see a slender little darkey mounting to the surface with a dozen others in hot pursuit. With a pro- longed snort and a deep inspiration, the vic- tor breaks water, deftly catches his silver, throws himself on his back and lies like a log, his eyes glistening triumphantly at his less fortunate companions. Then begins an exhibition of expert swimming, such as is never witnessed outside the tropics. One little fellow, with a preternaturally big head, would dive to the bottom and, lying on his back amid the white coral, go through all 90 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES sorts of grotesque movements until Fair- water shook like a jelly tart in an earth- quake. Others would have diving and swim- ming matches or righted their frail canoes with great dexterity. Guiltless of clothing, these diving boys pass the majority of their time in the water, swimming from ship to ship in search of coppers, regardless of sharks or barracudas. If a hawser becomes entangled in the screw a diver is sent below with a sharp knife and, presto! it is cut. If an anchor becomes fouled at the bottom, down goes a diver and clears it. It is even asserted that they will take a hammer and nails and patch up the copper sheating on a ship's bottom. But now for the shore. I see a chubby looking darkey beckoning to me as if in- viting my perusal of his boat, which is dig- nified by the title of "Queen Victoria." Never having been in her august presence before, I am somewhat abashed, but sum- moning courage I gather my impedimenta, descend the landing stage and am soon speeding away toward Bridgetown. After her majesty's custom officials examine my gripsack to learn if there are any gatling guns, Habana cigars or Kentucky bourbon 91 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES concealed therein, they politely inform me that I am at liberty, so I engage a cab and am soon on my way to the Marine Hotel, two miles east of town. The first drive through any West Indies town, after a sea journey, is truly delightful, but a drive through the shady streets of Barbados in similar circumstances is an ex- perience not to be forgotten. The salty smelling breezes of the ocean give place to an atmosphere laden with the fragrance of bananas, oranges, limes, lemons, and a mul- titude of flowers, while one can detect the aromatic odor of spices blending with the rest. The loneliness of the deep is ex- changed for noises of a tropical garden teem- ing with bird and insect life, alive with the rustle of palm leaf and the shrill whistling of the mile tree. Perhaps in your drive along the white coral roads you may pass beneath the arch of a double row of cabbage palms, with bunchy heads poised high above. Anon a banana leaf brushes against the carriage side and you catch a glimpse of the golden fruit hiding beneath its broad, green covering. Suddenly a cocoanut tree towers for sixty feet above your head and you see its bunches 92 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES of fruit ranging in size from the little mon- key heads, no larger than eggs, to the huge article of commerce, as large as a pail. At every turn one is greeted by trees of mahog- any, rosewood and ironwood, while the pois- onous machineel and the gnarled, bearded banyan stand side by side. Look at that flowering maple with the white lily twin- ing around its trunk a dozen humming birds are there taking their last sip of nectar before the night. From those aloes bend- ing in the breeze to your right comes the high falsetto of a parrot, saying, "Won't you stop? Won't you stop?" You decline the invitation and continue along the road past Lord Nelson's statue, across the grassy plaza, past the red brick barracks circling in and out among the trees. The dull boom- ing of the surf is constantly in your ears, and once you catch a glimpse of its white froth beneath a dense green arch of bread and fruit trees. An almond tree drops a beautiful pink blossom in your lap as you brush past, and you roll up to the hotel steps with the delightful knowledge that you are going to enjoy yourself. Next morning my slumbers are disturbed by a continued chattering without. Walk- 93 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES ing to the window I discover the cause of the disturbance in the shape of three mon- keys sitting astride of three boxes, perched on as many poles, each monkey being at- tached to his box by a chain. The familiar childish rhyme, Monkey, monkey, bottle of beer, How many monkeys are there here? One, two, three Out goes he. occurs to me. I throw each monkey a ba- nana, which tokens of propitiation they seize and devour greedily. While watching their little wrinkled heads wag with contentment, it never occurs to me that I am to be the victim of a man's resentment through one of them. There are supreme moments in a man's life when events are approaching which are to cause him much trouble. How was I to know that Mr. Pomeroy, the genial proprietor of the Marine Hotel, would take such a dislike to me as to present me with that ring-tailed specimen of anthropoid imbecility attached to the farthest pole. Now that I am home and all is over, I can give the main details of the case with a tolerable degree of calm- ness. 94 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES Ju-ju (for that was his name) far eclipsed the performances of Major Sellers' animal, as the subjoined itemized account will show : To crockery broken in stateroom on voy- age $ 2.25 To anxiety, distress of mind and mental excitement 1,000.00 To lady's shawl torn in pieces on voyage. 12.00 To damage to room flooded in Astor House, New York, by monkey turning on water faucet 10.00 To biting a sailor's hand on board 1.00 To chains, cages and so forth 5.25 To porters, baggagemen and others 4.50 Total $1,035.00 Not having any man in view against whom I held an inveterate animosity, I turned Ju-ju over to the Lincoln Park com- missioners in Chicago. In visiting the park if any one should so desire, let him enter the monkey headquarters and ask for Ju-ju, but keep clear of the cage and take no liber- ties, for you know his character. But not to digress too far or anticipate subsequent events, let us descend to the dining hall and see what new or curious dishes are to be found on a West Indian bill of fare. Glancing at the carte we call for "cassava cakes" made of the much read 95 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES of cassava root whose fibers are only purged of their poisonous qualities by much beat- ing and rinsing. Made into a thin, brittle pancake, as white as snow, they lie before one in tempting array as if inviting further inspection of their merits. From the dish containing various tropical products, you select an egg-shaped fruit of a dingy purple, known as the avocado pear, alligator pear or midshipman's butter. The alligator pear is more of a vegetable than a fruit and its pasty interior has neither taste nor sweetness to one unaccustomed to its use. Persistent trials of its virtues, how- ever, create a liking for it. It is eaten with salt and pepper. The bread fruit looks like a huge osage orange and is baked whole, like a potato. It has a flavor resembling both the potato and bread. There are several kinds of yams, the commonest variety be- ing the big black yam, which grows to enor- mous size and tastes not unlike the Ir- ish potato. You will also find a dish called koo-koo, made of guinea corn and a variety of beans, while arrow root frequently is made into cakes and puddings. Let us not forget to taste the flying-fish; the juicy, dainty little flying-fish; the fish 96 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES whereof Mrs. Brown remarked : "I feel like a criminal every time I eat one." If I felt the same way my conscience would be haunted by a perfect nightmare of ghostly flying-fish carcasses. The next item on the menu revives the remembrance of Mayne Reid's and Kings- ton's juvenile stories. It is baked iguana lizard that warty sluggish creature so often described as being caught by a slip-noose while listening to the whistling of its cap- tor. To one who has eaten oysters, frog legs, bear meat and "possum," the savory flesh of this animal seems very palatable, regardless of the fact that it comes from a lizard, five feet in length. While dealing with these so-called epicurean horribles let me state that one can get a monkey ragout by asking for it, but of course this is a se- cret, between you and me. Also, that the people in several of the islands seek dili- gently in the groo-groo palm for a big white grub, which, being fried to a delicate brown, they place before you as one of their choic- est dainties. They are very fine eating so I am told. In the island of St. Vincent, I was treated to a nice stew of whale's meat, which, owing to its low price of three 97 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES cents a pound, forms a staple article of diet with the natives. I cannot say that I like it. I am content to let the whale swallow Jonah, but not to reverse the process. To close this chapter of gastronomic pe- culiarities, let me mention the pepper-pot. The pepper-pot is an earthenware jar placed upon the sideboard of every well regulated West Indian house containing a mixture which you are free to sample at all times of the day. Near of kin to the tamale and distantly related to the bologna sausage, it possesses the qualities of both united in an harmonious manner. After each repast the cold scraps of meat are taken from the plat- ter and thrown into the pepper-pot, no mat- ter what manner of flesh, fish or fowl they may be. At intervals, a few red-peppers, a sprinkle of cassareipe and other ingredients are added. The jar is never emptied or washed from one year's end to another, its contents being perfectly preserved by the peppers and cassareipe. When you som- mon courage enough to investigate its mys- teries, you seize a long fork and make a wild, reckless dive into its interior. Perhaps you may appear at the surface with a duck's leg, a bit of bacon, or a piece of lizard, which 98 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES you hastily swallow. Following this excit- ing episode a little Angostura bitters will be necessary to take the taste out of your mouth, which action is perfectly proper and excusable. After breakfast it is customary to take a walk before the sun's rays becomes too powerful; so if you will don your white suit, white shoes, white panama hat, and take your white umbrella with a green lin- ing, we will saunter along down this lane of manchineel trees to the beach. A half- dozen little darkies follow us dressed in every variety of costume, from a pair of slippers to a paper collar. Two or three beg- gars are met who solicit alms, in fact one is constantly beset by beggars in Barbados, until he rises in his wrath and drives them away. We get rid of our entire following by the judicious distribution of a few half- pence and continue along the road. The streets and country roads of Barba- dos are models of what streets and roads should be. Mudless, dustless and clean; they are cut out of the solid coral rock and intersect the land in every direction like ribbons of spotless white on an ever- green background. 99 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES Presently we encounter sheep but alas, we should never recognize them as the big balls of wool so common in the states. Their fluffy coats have almost dropped off, only a bunch of wool remaining here and there to show what might have been their former beauty. Poor, scrawny woollers, mangy ewes, the tropical heat has played you a sore trick, and thus you stand shorn of your majesty, fit only for mutton. Truly, "God tempers the wind to the shorn lamb." Here a man approaches with a huge bas- ket of fish on his head. We stop him and gaze curiously at his morning's catch. Fish of all kinds lie neatly arranged in his bas- ket, covered with broad green leaves. The leaves are removed and our eyes at once dazzled by the brilliant colors they reflect. Red, yellow, blue, green, and purple fish, striped and spotted with variegated colors. The bream, snapper, grooper, dolphin, co- valle, barber mullet, chub, jack-fish, barra- cuda, and Spanish mackerel are there, while lobsters of uncouth form, sea eggs and sea cats lie in the bottom of the basket. We present the fish vender with a pourboire, and cut across a small savannah under grape and gooseberry trees to the beach. 100 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES Grape and gooseberry trees! Who ever heard of grapes and gooseberries growing on trees? Nevertheless, it is the truth, or close to it, and if you will hurl that old piece of sugar cane up into the tree we may knock off a few. The missile is thrown and several round bodies come rattling down which not only look and taste like a grape but have seeds like a grape, so we are satisfied, though it is hard to think of an upright, symmetrical tree, four feet in circumference, as bearing grapes. Out across the water the fishing fleet is just visible with its scores of tiny sails skim- ming hither and thither on the swells, busy with line and net. In a few hours they will return and venders will carry the fish all over the island, selling them at four and sometimes fifty for a cent. Along the beach, where we are now walk- ing, the surf has just retired leaving the white coral packed smooth and hard. Jag- ged masses of rock coral interrupt our pro- gress at every step while bits of brain coral, branch, glove and coronation coral lie strewn about in great profusion. Shells of rare form and color are ofttimes found here but the most perfect specimens are out un- 101 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES der water where they will have to be sought for by divers. Many bright little shells of various colors can be picked up, however, and if you wish it, the natives will fashion them into brooch- es, earrings, necklaces and other jewelry, which they are so skillful in making. Animal life is very numerous along the beach and one is continually interested by the creatures encountered. There is the water rat that skurries up the cocoanut tree to his nest. He has a fashion of eating a hole in a green cocoanut and getting inside, from which point of advantage he peeps saucily out as if calling attention to his big green cradle. Perhaps he shares his bunk with a green lizard or two while the land crab is likely any moment to amble up the tree and jump his claim. There is another variety of crab which carries its eyes on the ends of a pair of long hair-like feelers; there it waives frantically upon your ap- proach until you are very close when it rapidly digs a hole in the sand and vanishes, with the exception of its eyes which peer through the sand like two beads. Often, a little, brown, weasel-like animal will dart across the sand in pursuit of a 102 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES water rat or a kangaroo mouse. This creat- ure is the mongoose, famous as a snake and vermin destroyer. The mongoose was in- troduced into Barbados from India to kill the vermin, but it was soon found that not only were the mice and rats disappearing, but the chickens, ducks and turkeys along with them, so the government has abolish- ed the laws against their destruction. Oc- casionally, one finds a sea cat (a species of cuttle fish) lying concealed among the rocks ready to attach its powerful suckers to the leg of an unwary bather. Luminous fish light up the surf at night, while sea eggs, sea beetles, spider crabs, sea squirts and a host of queer and curious animals present an ever interesting spectacle to the observer. Presently we detect the odor of boiling syrup on the air and finding ourselves in the vicinity of a sugar mill, we determine to visit it. The cane in Barbados is pres- sed by wind power, and as we emerge from a clump of bamboos we behold the four huge arms of the mill whirling and groaning in the trade wind in a manner suggestive of Don Quixote's demons. The mill proper consists of a circular stone structure resem- bling the old Newport mill. The long arms 103 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES turn a central shaft connecting with a cog below which in turn revolves the huge rol- lers. Between these the cane is thrust, the juice running through a pipe into the boil- ing house, where it is received by the first of a series of seven pans. Into the first pan a quantity of lime is thrown which precip- itates all dirt and other impurities. The liquor then passes from pan to pan until it is reduced to a thick syrup when it is taken out and placed in huge wooden vats to cool and crystalize. After being perfectly cooled the sugar is shoveled into hogsheads which are placed over shallow pans into which the drippings of molasses falls. The sugar in the hogshead is called raw sugar and is shipped to the states where it is re- fined. The molasses, if it is nice and clean, is also sent to America, but if it be dirty and full of flies it is distilled into rum "sans ceremonie." Life about a sugar mill is ex- ceedingly jolly and approaches nearly the colored man's idea of enjoyment in Para- dise. Here he can work in gangs while the nature of his labor allows him time to chaff and joke with his comrades. At intervals through the day a small black cloud will be seen approaching which always 104 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES presages a puff of wind then the entire force of men and women seize the huge rud- der and with rhythmical chant turn the windmill out of the wind. Such an operation was taking place as we reached the mill and we respectfully listened to this song with its ceaseless refrain: One, two, three, four, five, six seben, Pans full ob sugah! Pans full ob sugah! Better be good if you wan to go to Heben. One, two, three, four, five, six, seben, Pans full ob sugar! Pans full of sugah! During this forced cessation of labor, the men engaged in wrestling and other sports, while the women indulged in that small gossip so dear to the female hearts, whether black or white. Then, too, the concentrated essence of sweetness is constantly on tap, in the shape of molasses and other sacchar- ines. These are taken in broken doses all day, while the consumption of cane is sim- ply enormous. One would be astonished at the amount of sugar a man, who has been trained up to the business, can absorb at one sitting. It was a favorite pastime with me, while in Barbados, to test this capacity for sugar. Whenever a beggar asked me for money to 105 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES purchase eatables I would conduct him to the sugar mill and proceed to experiment. The greatest success I experienced was with a deceptive looking, fat little man, dressed in a pair of pre-historic overalls, with coffee sack trimmings. He drank a quart of molasses, ate a generous slice of pan sugar, and departed chewing a cent's worth of cane. I admired him so much that I called him back and gave him three cents in English money and good advice. While we were in the vicinity of this sugar mill, which, during my stay in Bar- bados, became a favorite resort of mine, let me conduct you across the cane field and introduce you to a friend. His name is Jack and he is generally found sitting on the branch of a liquorice tree before his owner's home. One day in my rambles I was passing this tree and stooped to pick up one of its long, black pods, when suddenly a shrill voice rang out above me, "Master, Master! Some one's a stealin', stealin', stealin'." Be- ing thus detected in the act of theft, I glanc- ed hastily up and behald a large, brilliantly colored macaw wagging his head in a most accusing manner. My innocent expression 106 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES must have impressed him, however, for he said " howdy," and scrambled down the tree. Having thoroughly inspected my per- son he commanded me to "scratch," and held out his big, red head which I began to ruffle. It is needless to say that Jack and I became great cronies and passed many an hour beneath the liquorice tree. Another friend of mine is a green parrot belonging to a woman on Bay street. I do not wish to be considered one of those Brethren of our joyful choir; Twang! O, twang the tuneful lyre, as one of our western poets puts it. I am not a falsifier and truth compels me to give the facts concerning the green parrot in question. One day the parrot's mistress became involved in a quarrel with a woman who peddled potatoes, in which several complimentary remarks were passed. After that day, whenever the parrot espied the woman, he would derisively yell, "potatoes, rotten potatoes!" Finally, the woman became so angry that she entered the yard with avowed purpose of demolishing "old polly." Her actions were interrupted, however, by the appear- 107 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES ance of the mistress, who, in turn, became the object of her wrath. She poured forth such a flood of Barbardian billingsgate with such distinctness and energy that every word and sentence was strongly impressed on frightened Polly's mind. The woman was arrested and the case called before the judge on the following day. There were no witnesses of the scene except Polly who did most awfully swear as you shall see. Poll was brought into court and the wo- man ordered to advance toward the cage, when such a torrent of blood-curdling pro- fanity issued from Polly's throat that the air fairly grew sulphurous. The tones and words were in exact imitation of the wo- man's and the judge immediately fined her. A court-room habitue told me that the judge, jury and spectators were so convulsed with laughter that the glass chandelier was shattered by the vibrations, but this may be taken "cum grano." Society in Barbados is necessarily Eng- lish and one is taken into upper tendom im- mediately, if his credentials and appearance be sufficiently reassuring. A more hospit- able and generous people than the Barbados would be difficult to find when one becomes 108 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES acquainted with them. To be sure the fash- ions are a month in arriving and one cannot procure the exact cut on his clothes that a Bond street tailor can furnish, but good, English cloth is plenty good and a tailor- made suit can be had for twelve dollars that would cost fifty in New York. Wages are excessively low in Barbados, common field hands receiving fifteen cents a day, domestic the same, skilled mechanics fifty cents and other in like proportion. For this reason, coupled with the low priced English materials, one can save enough money in the purchase of clothing, shoes, hats, etc., to pay his passage to and from New York. Officers of the garrison are favorites and when several men-of-war are in the harbor parties, balls and wine suppers follow each other in rapid succession. When a man arrives in the tropics a feel- ing of lassitude at once steals over him, he becomes languid and feels the need of stim- ulants. If he is in the habit of drinking, his ordinary amount is speedily doubled and trebled. This increased allowance in such a climate soon tells on his system, he takes typhoid, brain or yellow fever, and if he re- 109 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES covers, goes home execrating the West In- dian climate. It is thus with many of our naval officers who rather overdo the drink- ing business at most of their points of stop- page. Every day twenty or thirty common sea- men are permitted to go ashore from a man- of-war, and it is safe to say that an hour af- terward every mother's son of them is hope- lessly, hilariously full of three-penny kill- devil. They hire carriages and drive the horses to death; they get donkeys and race up and down the streets; they whoop and yell, defy the police, engage in brawls and paint the town a rich carmine generally. One who has witnessed such a scene is prone to think that the late Chilean difficulty might have been, if not actually, provoked by a similar occurrence. Horse racing is the sport par excellence in Barbados, and at the spring meeting the savannah is thronged with a good natured crowd of happy darkeys. Bets are freely made, from the poor man's penny to the rich man's pound, while the unlimited guzzling of rum precipitates numerous wool pulling matches. Ginger beer, cocoanut cake and comfit venders with gay turbans, display 110 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES their wares among the crowd, while tropical fruit, rich and rare, is piled in shining heaps upon the fruit stalls. Polo playing on horse back is another sport much affected by Barbadians and a good game is greatly enjoyed by the color- ed population, especially if there are two or three accidents to give zest to the entertain- ment. The boys in Barbados are experts at kite flying and it is doubtful if even the Chinese can surpass them in the art. Man- kites and animal-kites are easily made and flown, while "singing angels," "roaring bulls," and other kites which make a noise, fill the air with their booming. In the sea- son kites of all shapes, sizes and colors dot the sky night kites with lanterns dangling from their tails, dragons with flaming crests, kites with edged glass attached to them in such a manner that the owner can cut the strings of a rival by expert manipulation. The boys are also skillful in making blow- guns of bamboo tops, cane-fiddles, small fire- works and other toys. Christmas day is the holiday of all holi- days in Bunshire (as Barbados is jocularly nicknamed) and weeks before the great event the people begin saving their slender 111 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES earnings for a grand display. Stores of gin- ger beer, sorrel, cocoanut cakes, red, white and blue comfits and a host of other indi- gestibles are made ready, while new clothes are purchased and the small boy is busy in the preparation of divers bombs, serpents and other combustibles. Christmas day is ushered in by a noise and turmoil similar to that which announces our Fourth of July. Every one treats every one else; sorrel and rum flow like water, blood ditto; the poor man indulges in a piece of pork for dinner (a rare treat), and a merry carnival of sport and pleasure en- dures the live-long day. Groups of cali- thumpians in grotesque attire, on stilts, on donkeys, in chariots, parade the streets, while bands of nerve-destroying musicians keep up their infernal racket from morn till night. Swarms of little darkies in various stages of deshabille, hover around the hotel piazzas eager to engage in single stick matches, scrambles, greased hog chases, donkey races, goat races, fool races, or any kind of a race for prizes consisting of cigar stubs, half pence, fruit, and so forth. But let us go down to the fruit market near Trafalgar square en voiture and take 112 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES a peep at an interesting sight. We choose our time on Christmas eve, after dark, else we should be pelted with showers of roses, lilies and spice blooms. Our driver picks his way carefully along through narrow streets, past gardens brilliant with paper lanterns and flambeaux, past groups of mer- ry, happy, singing people, until we reach the market. We dismount and enter the open square lined and crossed by rows of stalls. Buffoons, jesters, calithumpians, musicians, stilt-walkers, sailors, all are mingled in a noisy , clattering throng. The flickering light from innumerable lanterns and flam- beaux is reflected from the black or swarthy faces around us. The seven colors of the rainbow vie with each other in profusion in the gay headgear and fanciful calico of les belles Barbadian, while a wealth of beaten silver jewelry ornaments their dusky arms. But the fruit, the luscious tropical fruit! Let us promenade before the stalls and view it in all its variety and abundance. Look at that great heap of sour-sops, huge shin- ing balls of green, filled to the bursting point with juicy white pulp how my mouth wa- ters at the thought. Buy one of those jelly cocoanuts, take it home, dip its pearly blanc- 113 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES mange from the shell with a spoon, close your eyes, taste and be happy. Slice open that brown sappodillo, partake of the lus- cious paw-paw, fill your pockets with man- goes, water lemons, guavas we are in the garden of Hesperides. Let me place in your basket maumee apples, star apples, custard apples, sugar apples, red and yellow bana- nas, fig bananas, plantains, oranges, tan- gerines, mandarins, limes, lemons, water co- coanuts, cashews, white and red grapefruit, shaddocks, grapes, prickly pears, tumbor- iur loquats all can be purchased for an English shilling. If you are surfeited with fruit, we will re- turn to the hotel, for it is almost one o'clock and the market will soon break up in a gen- eral melee, in which fruit, flowers and vege- tables will hurtle through the air; cocoa- nuts will collide with you and you with sour- sop, until such a mass of frugivorous matter will kaleidoscope before the eyes of the spec- tator that he will imagine himself a popu- list orator on a tour through Georgia. Life at the Marine hotel is very enjoyable. The building is built on coral rock and is in the form of a U, with long wings and wide, breezy halls, especially constructed for 114 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES the free circulation of the trade winds. The rooms are large and airy, with huge win- dows of lattice work which cannot be closed, in fact there is no necessity for closing them in this hospitable clime. To be sure the birds are a little inquisitive and have a habit of flying in at the window and helping them- selves to fruit, etc., while little green lizards are likely to scramble around the walls of your chamber in search of flies and mosqui- tos, but no one minds these West Indian peculiarities. At rare intervals a centipede may drop from the ceiling on your bed or a tarantula sidle along the floor, or perhaps a mammoth cockroach will endeavor to carry away the tallow candle in your room. However, none of these incidents happened to me and I have them only by hearsay. The humming birds of Barbados are num- erous and one can count a dozen on any single flowering tree or shrub, of all sizes and colors. They are the most impudent and pugnacious little creatures in existence. Often, they will alight on one's hat, or the end of one's cane and boldly flirt their little tails as much as to say, "See, me ! Am I not pretty?" One of the most enjoyable of Barbadian 115 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES enjoyments is the early morning surf bath- ing. Just as "Old Sol" has risen above the cocoanut groves in the east, one dons his pajamas, seizes a crash towel and hurries down to the beach. .The air is warm and balmy, the water tepid, and never a shake or shiver discomforts the bather, though he be in the water for hours. Out over the cor- al sands, through the clear water, treading lightly amid curious shells and corals, div- ing under foam-crested billows, riding up and down on the easy swells no wonder the swimmer loves his bath. Another occupation fraught with pleasure is simply to sit on the hotel piazzas and watch the people pass. Here will come an old "aunty" waddling along with a bushel of yams; another follows with live ducks, chickens or turkeys ; another with fruit ; all placed on trays and all poised on the head with arms dangling free at the sides.. Even milk, bread, fish, ginger beer are peddled in this manner. While we are looking porters pushing hand carts, donkey drivers, grooms, beggars, sailors, street vendors, fakirs, and children will pass, all busy with their var- ious occupations. Perhaps a country girl will pass with white or yellow shoes, and 116 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES green, red or blue stockings as her fancy desires. When she has reached the city outskirts she will sit down by the wayside and take them off, after which she will place them on her head and resume her way, con- scious that her appearance in town has been "comme il faut," while her shoe leather has been saved where there are no eyes to see. From the Marine Hotel one can make a delightful excursion to Bathsheba, on the windward side of the island. Here a com- fortable little hostelry is perched upon rag- ged cliffs jutting out over the water. One is carried up the pathway in a sedan chair and as the two black carriers wind in and out among the rocks a pretty picture is spread out before the view. On one side are fields of livid green cane, coffee planta- tions, meadows and groves of fruit; on the other side the amethyst sea melts away in the distance, while gigantic waves of surf roar and thunder at your feet. The wind here blows with powerful force, ever steady, ever constant, day and night, month after month, until the trees are all turned in one direction as if fleeing from its influence. At night one is sung to sleep by lullaby of wind and ocean; the low droning of the wind 117 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES mingles with the dull thud of the billows as they rush tumultuously against the rock wall. Another delightful trip is to the coral gar- dens on the reefs surrounding the island. Gardens? you question. Yes, gardens of flowers coral flowers; posies as delicate as the lily and rose ; bouquets of blushing pink, of dazzling white, of blood red. Procure a small boat and dance out over the swells to the sea garden. Gaze down into the depths through your water glass and tell what you see on the white sandy bottom. Corals, you answer -lumpy, con- voluted brain coral, shallow pan coral, huge sticks of branch coral, coronation and rock coral, all mingled in a thousand fantastic forms and all reflecting a thousand lights and shadows from the prismatic water. Per- haps you will see a piece of delicate pink coral, more precious than gold, or discover bleeding tooth shells used as money by the Kanakas. Pink and yellow sea fans wave majestically to and fro in the ground swell; slimy creatures with rare shell houses thrust their tenacles through the ooze; crabs of various forms and colors scuttle about the rocks; gold and silver fish swim fearlessly 118 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES beneath you, while the huge shark is likely at any moment to meet your gaze with his baleful eye. If you have a diving boy in the boat send him below to gather a few of these curios for you. Down he goes with a splash, head first, swimming like a great green frog. Now he is on the bottom and stoops to gath- er your specimens, then up he comes, eyes wide open, floating in air. "Dot bery easy," he remarks, shaking the brine from his woolly pate, "but I get bery much frightened toder day." "How was that?" you interrogate. "Buccra man die wid de yellow fever on board de Demerara schooner in de harbor cant bury him on shore cause ketch de fever sew im up in sail cloth tie cannon to his feet sail outen de harbor 'bout tree mile toss im overboard. Two, tree, five day pass me go divin' out on de reef go down after big conch shell look up an' see white ghost standin' up behin' big branch coral wavin' back and forth arms swing- in' body comin toward me on the tide. Me much scared eyes stick out swaller heap water get to surface pretty soon go way soon no like buccra man ghost." 119 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES This white coral bed seems no unfit mauso- leum for men. I would rather be buried among those white monuments than under the damp dark earth. Ariel sings to the Prince in Shakespeare's "Tempest:" Full fathoms five, thy father lies; Of his bones are coral made. Those are pearls that were his eyes. Nothing of his that doth fade, But doth suffer a sea change Into something rich and strange. Sea nymphs hourly ring his knell, Ding dong. Hark, now I hear them ding dong bell. The moon is rising on our last night in Barbados. We saunter out on the piazza as is our wont. The band is playing over on the savannah and the soft strains come to us through groves of almond and mahog- any trees. Bats of all sizes are darting about in their nightly wanderings, from the com- mon bat to the great vampire or blood suck- er. We raise our eyes to the great "South- ern Cross" it is ablaze with glory we think of the lines : Blue dome besprent with diamond dust, Bright gleams the path by angels trod Mid countless jewels rich incrust Outshines the monogram of God. 120 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES It is a regretful leave taking. We hate to leave the Major. Brown has become our friend; the microbe man has so ingra- tiated himself into our confidence that we have promised to drink boiled water and sleep on wire pillows, while even Miss Gush has become an object of compassion. To be sure the last words to me were something about "the pellucid, softening, ethereal rays of luna on mountain, sea or dell," but I for- gave them I felt that way myself. Seated on the vessel's deck I sorrowfully mused every plunge of the prow, every turn of the wheel was carrying me to a cli- mate where "nature continually frowns for half the year and smiles the other." The land where I had experienced the greatest pleasure in many years was sink- ing below the horizon. 121 WhentfieWmdBlows I love the ocean in its moods and tenses, The laughter of the waves; their sweet cadences Lull the soul to rest and charm the senses, When the wind blows through the rigging. I love to watch the colors come and go On mountain wave and crest of dazzling snow; The red-tinged cloud banks in a sunset glow, When the wind blows through the rigging. \ I love to hear the melancholy droning Through shroud and stay; the wind's sweet plain- tive moaning, And sudden angry hiss of breaking combing, When the wind blows through the rigging. I love to catch the glimmer of the moon, Through inky clouds on curling wave of spume, The phosphorescent glow amidst the gloom, When the wind blows through the rigging. I love to see St. Elmo's flame on high, Or leap from mast to mast across the sky; The evanescent rainbow fade and die, When the wind blows through the rigging. I love at evening's close to sink to sleep, As lengthening shadows o'er the ocean creep, Rocked in the cradle of the mighty deep, When the wind blows through the rigging. 123 FAR to the south, where the gentle northeast trades course over the heated Water, lies the coral island of Barbados. It stands boldly to the eastward of all the Caribbean Islands, and is distant only a few hours' sailing from Martinique, St. Lucia, St. Vincent, Bequia and the Spanish main. In certain seasons of the year drift car- ried out to sea by the powerful current of the Orinoco reaches this island and occa- sionally the remains of huge alligators, liz- ards and poisonous serpents, whose habitat is Venezuela, are cast upon the shore. The geological formation of Barbados is most interesting, it having in an ancient pe- riod consisted of a solitary submerged vol- canic peak. The coral insects constructed a broad terrace entirely around this peak, and then came a gigantic convulsion of na- ture which upheaved the whole mass to a height of sixty feet. Again the coral polyps builded; another terrace grew, and again 125 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES the mass was raised. But this was not the end, for another terrace was formed and upheaved, and at the present time a fourth is in progress of construction by the same diligent little creatures. Upon approaching the island the spectator at once observes the symmetrical order of these terraces, though they are now much eroded and their lines distorted by the throes of nature. Barbados is the most beautiful of all the West Indies, and has one of the most equa- ble climates in the world. To these hygienic virtues has been ascribed its popularity as a place of recuperation for the fever suf- ferers of less favored localities. It has al- ways been a British colonial possession and two English regiments are stationed here. Being the most densely inhabited pastoral spot of land in the world, every acre of its surface is cultivated to the highest possible extent to support its immense population. Verdant fields of cane wave over its undu- lating terraces immense patches of yams, eddoes and cassava flourish in its beautiful valley, while narrow roads of white coral lead to quaint old colonial mansions almost hidden among stately groves of mahogany and royal palm trees. 126 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES Its freedom from serpents and noxious insects, its perfect drainage and strict sani- tary laws, its cool, balmy breezes and re- freshing showers, make it a place of quiet, healthful rest to the invalid fleeing from the rigors of a northern winter ; while its wealth of curious shells and beautiful corals, its strange fruits and flowers, its brilliant birds and queer animals, its busy plantation life and interesting character studies, are a never-failing source of entertainment to northern visitors. In the surrounding waters of this delight- ful region the flying-fish makes his home, the dolphin disports himself and huge sea birds sail majestically over the water, prey- ing on both. Out on the coral reefs which guard the shore thunders the majestic surge of the constant trades, sending its milk- white spray across the mussel beds to lave the feet of the towering cocoanuts fringing the beach. The vicious barracuda, the sharp- toothed mackerel and the lumbering shark lurk among the coral caverns near shore, white schools of bonitos, sinnets and jacks play in the open water over the shallows. The flying-fish loves deep water and is found throughout the length and breadth of 127 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES tropical seas. He is fond of feeding near the gulf weed of the sargassos, and deposits his stringy, glutinous spawn on its yellow branches. Vessels bound from New York to the Caribbee Islands upon reaching the "horse latitudes" sometimes encounter vast quantities of drifting weed, strung out into long ribbon-like patches, about an eighth of a mile apart. Among this golden weed, with its delicate leaves and globular seeds, exists a curious family of cuttle fish, crabs, mollusks and small fishes. Upon these the flying-fish preys and they in turn devour its spawn. Every plunge of the steamer as she plows through the blue tropical waters frightens dozens of flying-fish into the air, where they scatter in all directions, with the sunlight glistening on their gauzy wings. The flying fish of the Atlantic attains a length of nearly one foot, and a breadth between wing tips of eleven inches. He has a round, compact body, about an inch in diameter near the pectoral fins or wings. There is also an auxiliary pair of ventral fins or wings, not nearly so large as the pectoral pair. The wings are formed by a thin, transparent membrane stretched over 128 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES a delicate, bony framework, and are either black, white, or mottled with both. The upper half of the entire fish is a metallic blue in color, while the lower portion is a nacreous white. Black, prominent eyes, a small, prehensile mouth, forked tail, dorsal and anal fins, complete the picture of one of the most interesting little fishes in all na- ture's vast aquarium. In flight he darts from the water to a height of twenty feet, and goes scudding away before the wind, beating the air rap- idly with both wings and tail. He sails straight away for one thousand feet, or even more, occasionally touching the crest of a wave, and seeming to gain a new impetus by the contact. . . The flying fish fleet of Barbados is the largest in the West Indies, and during the fishing season between December and June it takes an immense number of these fish, which furnish a cheap and abundant food supply for the Barbadians. The boats are ungainly open craft, crude- ly built, with naked ribs of mahogany planked with yellow pine. Rigged with leg- of-mutton mainsail and large, flat jib, they are fairly good sailers, and are managed 129 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES with no little skill and dexterity, notwith- standing their makeshift equipment of burnt out ropes, patched sails and unwieldy ballast. Every boat carries one or more heavy lines for large fish, small flying-fish hooks, a shark hook, and two nets of half- inch mesh stretched over a round bamboo hoop three feet in diameter. Down to the beach in the early dawn come the fishermen from their dilapidated huts amid the cane and cocoanut clumps. Great, brawny fellows they are, as they stand ready to plunge into the boiling surf through which they must swim to reach their boats. Out over the reef through the intricate chan- nel glides the boat. The red glint of the morning sun tinges its sails, the northeast trades fill the bellying canvas, and soon scores of boats are pulling out into blue wa- ter from behind every palm-fringed bay and protecting headland. The trolling line is now trailed out astern, and its swivel-rigged hoop, spitted with a shining fish, goes spin- ning around as an attraction for kingfish, gunnet, barracuda or Spanish mackerel. The boat moves swiftly out over the sub- merged coral gardens, past the redfish shal- lows where live the snapper, blackjack, 130 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES covalle, velvets and ningnings, old men, old wives, drummer-boys, chubs, pudding-fish, queen mullets, hinds, congerees, whip-rays, niggerheads, butterfish, soap-fish, rainbows, cooks, barbers' grunts, inkfish, horse-eyes, parrot-fish and dozens of other interesting fishes most wonderfully made and brilliantly colored. At times a hawk-bill tortoise or a green turtle is seen lying asleep on the surface of the water. Then the skipper runs silently alongside, and before the unwieldy monster can dive beneath the wave his flipper is fast in the slipnoose and he is hauled aboard. The shore birds and lazy, croaking peli- cans are left astern; the red-roofed houses, the green hills and valleys, the whirling windmills, are all merged in a hazy hand oi emerald on the horizon, while our crew be- gins to search the water for drift, weed seeds, sea birds and other signs of fish. A group of whales are feeding under our lee, and the deep roar of their blowing reaches us over the heaving water. The little calves are sportively inclined and broach repeatedly into the air, while the old bull and his cows sound the bottom for in- sect life on the deep sea banks. Barbados 131 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES has a whaling station, and many of these mammals are taken every winter and re- solved into oil, whalebone and fertilizers. The flesh both of the whale and shark is eat- en fresh and in a cured state by all the West Indian Islanders. We are now approaching the flying-fish ground, and a few black and white Mother Carey's chickens suddenly descend upon us and dart to our outstretched hands for bits of food. A bos'un bird makes an ineffectual attempt to carry oft 7 our spinning fish astern, while a "break" of flying fish scatter in all directions as we plow through a long line of ocean weed. The command to lower away is sung out by the skipper, the tiller is jammed hard down, and as the boat comes to the wind the halyards are run, stays cast off, jibboom inrigged, mast unstepped, and we lie rolling broadside on in the huge reg- ular swells. Stale fish are now macerated and the "mash" hung over the side in a sieve-like basket. As the boat is drifting to leeward this "scent" goes out to windward, produc- ing a calm or "slick" in which flying-fish begin to gather in increasing numbers. Two or three dart to the boat, then shoot 132 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES away again at its slightest plunge, only to return with others and begin a closer in- spection. They come nearer and nearer in growing numbers, until at last, as if decid- ing that this ungainly monster rolling on the deep is their natural protector, they nes- tle up to its sides and swim in droves around it. The fish are now "good" and ready to be dipped." This is done at bow and stern by the net men, who scoop them gently into the boat two or three at a time. Hold a small bit of fish over the side and a dozen will immediately hover about your hand, swimming over and under your fingers in their eagerness to gain the tidbit. Flying-fish are divided according to size into pinfish, weely-whistles, youngsters and patriarchs. Only the latter come to the boat, and are classed as spawn and milt fish. Guineamen are large species of flying-fish, three or four times heavier than the patri- archs, and cannot be lured into the net. They are very gamy when taken on the line and generally break into flight over the boat. The bewildered angler then finds that he has hooked a fish, but is playing a bird. The fish now swarm around the boat like chickens, and more than two thousand are 133 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES lying in a glistening heap on the ballast. An abandoned whale carcass is drifting up to us from leeward, sending out a broad slick or band of oil in all directions. A mul- titude of Mother Carey's chickens are hov- ering over its exposed surface, while a vi- cious throng of barracudas and sharks tear at the blubber underneath. As our boat drifts by the carcass these scavengers of the ocean make an attack on our school of fly- ing-fish, sending them panic stricken into the air in all directions. Sharks thus gorged to repletion with whale blubber do not take the hook; but the fishermen are so imbued with the spirit of vengeance that they maim and injure them with the utmost ferocity. They lure them to the side of the boat by means of a flying-fish attached to a string, and thrust their keen blades up to the hilt in their sides, dyeing the water for yards around with a crimson flood. The savage brutes, excited by their own blood, tear each other in fury, but at last retire, leaving us to pursue our way in peace. Occasionally, the fishermen are seriously annoyed by a fleet of Portuguese men-o'- war. These curious, gelatinous animals look like pinkish, transparent balloons floating 134 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES on the surface of the water. Long, purple streamers trail behind them, and amid this "rigging," as the sailors call it, live a num- ber of sailorfish or men-o'-warsmen, who ac- company the man-o'-war on all its cruises. When the man-o'-war is cast ashore its crew of sailorfish become perfectly frantic and perish of starvation, unless shipped by an- other man-o'-war. Woe to the fisherman who in the process of dipping comes in contact with these streamers or rigging. They seem to pro- duce an almost instantaneous paralysis of the nervous ganglia by their contact. The muscles strain involuntarily, the parts touched burn intensely, the sufferer screams with agony, and it is several hours before he finds relief. The flying-fish fisherman's dinner depends on his success as a netter, otherwise a dry crust or two is his sole refreshment. As the sun approaches the meridian a fire is started on the iron ballast in the bottom of the boat, a black pot slung amidships, and soon a fine chowder of flying-fish, yams, garlic and red peppers is sending its savory odor out over the water. How the skipper enjoys this part of the day as he sits in the stern, smok- 135 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES ing a short black pipe. The netmen are bringing in the fish at every dip; the verti- cal sun is pouring his torrid rays down on their naked bodies. Their perspiring, oily limbs gleam like polished ebony as they sway back and forth over their work. Fleecy cumulus clouds float overhead and are mir- rored in the seas beneath. Nothing dis- turbs the silence of this noonday calm but the splash of the boat as she rides the swell, or the harsh croak of seabirds as they circle in the air. But a contrast is soon forthcoming to this picture of the skipper's masterly inactivity and environment of his surroundings, for his trained eye has discovered two cobblers bearing down from windward. Now cobblers are huge sea birds, and by their actions in- dicate the presence of dolphin. If their flight be lofty and circling, they are said to be "searching," but if they sail close to the water and dart repeatedly to its surface, dolphins are near at hand. The cobbler dashes at the exposed back of the dolphin when he appears at the surface and gnashes out pieces of flesh, which he devours. A sight like this rouses the crew into im- mediate activity, for a "cloud" of dolphin 136 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES is encountered only once of twice in an en- tire season. Anxious glances are cast to windward at the approaching cobblers. The boat is cleared for action. Each man is assigned his station by the skipper, and all stand with quickened pulses eager for the fray. The shark is the bull dog of the sea, but the dolphin is its hound. He is long and narrow, with blunt head, brilliant eyes, pow- erful tail and a leathery skin dotted with blue. He weighs from twenty to forty pounds, and can change color like a chamel- eon. Lithe and powerful, he scours the sea, the very personification of grace and activity. The frantic flying-fish darts into the air and skims like a flash light for a thousand feet, but the dolphin follows swift- ly beneath like a dark shadow and rends his exhausted prey as it sinks on the crested wave. The excitement is now at fever heat, the flying-fish begin to run wild, dark shadowy forms are seen to windward and the fisher- man mumbles his "obeah" to give him luck; for on his success depend many necessities for wife and child, tobacco, rum and feast- day money. Suddenly our flying-fish break 137 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES from the water in a silvery shower. The cobblers and seagulls pursue them in air, the dolphins surround them beneath the wave. At the first taste of blood the dol- phins have turned into a bright orange yel- low and are now said to be in their "biting colors." Both ends of the big line are worked with all possible celerity. The bait scarcely touches the water ere a dolphin strikes and is drawn aboard while the rest crowd around the boat in a dense pack as if eager for the hook. The dolphins in the boat keep up a ceaseless hammering with their tails, battering everything breakable into a shape- less mass and bruising the fishermen se- verely. They present a beautiful sight in their dying moments, changing color rapid- ly from blue to purple, orange and yellow; while overhead a noisy flock of sea birds look down on the scene and mingle their cries in the general hubbub. More than fifty dolphins are taken in ten minutes, when suddenly they become frightened and van- ish, to be seen no more, leaving a panting, exhausted crew covered with blood from head to foot, but supremely happy. There are other moments of happiness 138 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES to the flying-fish fisherman, but none that he enjoys so much as when catching dol- phin. Very rarely he meets with a "sea navy," or large congregations of all kinds of large fishes, including blackjack, king- fish, gunnet, barracuda, dolphin, shark, por- poise, bonita, bullfish and albacore. For what reason these fishes assemble in such vast numbers is not known. They crowd together closely and churn the water into foam for an eighth of a mile in all directions. When a sea navy is "hailed" the fisherman endeavors to get his boat into the pack and then he can fill it, for at such times the fish are ravenous. A large albacore will weigh three hundred pounds, and it takes the en- tire crew to handle him. After an hour's hard playing he is drawn alongside, and if there are no sharks around the best diver on the boat goes overboard and puts a sling around its tail, thus assuring its capture. In a sea navy sharks often throng around the boat and nip off half of each fish as it is being drawn aboard. About the middle of the afternoon the boats begin to make sail for home, and hun- dreds of sails are soon seen dotting the wa- ter in all directions. 139 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES There exists great rivalry among them as to which shall put their fish ashore first, and many a victorious boat comes surging up to the wharf under sweeps, with dripping can- vas and exhausted crew. A ragged, unkempt crowd of women quickly transfer the catch to round baskets and start off in all directions through Bridgetown, with their burdens poised on their turbaned heads. Many of these women will trot off at a swinging gait, carrying a burden of one hundred pounds, and travers- ing a distance of fifteen miles or more be- fore their last fish is sold and the last cry sounded of "F-e-e-sh he-e-e-r." The Barbadian fisherman is very super- stitious. All his goings and comings are governed by signs; all his ventures con- trolled by traditions brought from darkest Africa in old slavery days. He strictly ob- serves all sacred days of whatever creed. His imagination pictures "duppies" walking upon the water and weird figures waving in the sky, which augur good or evil to his welfare. Strange sounds come to him over the water, and the waves eddy and swirl under the influence of submarine monsters. His real perils, however, are many, and the 140 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES woman often waits in vain for his home- coming. The hurricanes of the summer sea- son destroy many boats and engulf their crews. Waterspouts rise suddenly out of the sea and rend in fragments his frail craft. He is obliged to pick his homeward with the greatest nicety and precision, past hidden reefs, through intricate channels, in all kinds of weather, by day and by night. Sometimes in the gloom of midnight he pilots his way through the home channel, guided only by the noise of the surf break- ing against the reef on either side. Should he mistake the way by a few feet huge com- bers grasp his boat and hurl it with relent- less force against the jagged coral. But though his perils be many, and his hardships great, he loves his calling and enjoys his triumph with hook and net. Like all sailors, he drinks more grog than is good for him, and smokes an excessive quantity of vile tobacco. He is wont to gather at the wharf after the sun has gone to rest, and spin his yarn and dance a reel with the rest of his mates,, Under the benign sky of the tropics, in a land of perpetual summer, he pursues his way, improvident, careless, 141 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES untrammeled, save by the cares of a mo- ment. One who has sailed these blue waters with him day by day during the tropical winter will store up in his memory many exciting experiences with shark and dol- phin; innumerable pictures of mountain- ous waves, breaking surf and intricate chan- nels. He will recall the beautiful garden be- neath the water where he peered into hid- den caverns, with their wealth of curious shells, sponges and coral. As he sits before the fireside of his north- ern home and the snow and sleet beat against the window, he will remember with pleasure the days spent with his friends, the flying-fish fishermen on the surface of the beautiful Caribbean. 142 In tropic lands, 'neath skies of richest blue, Where crested wave gives back the mirrored hue, The Caribbean islets tower on high And bathe their peaks in fleecy cumuli. The gentle trades course o'er the billowy deep, And swathe with cooling breath their hour of sleep ; The fragrant lime and lowly jasmine bloom, Yielding the air their tribute of perfume; Where stately groves and palm trees fringe the shore, And lose their whispering in the ceaseless roar Of breaking surf on dazzling coral strand, Here curious shells are buried in the sand. Oh! lovely Martinique, thou beauteous isle, On thee sweet nature cast her sunniest smile. Arabia's shores nor fair Hesperides Can boast thy foliage, bending in the breeze. Thou art an emerald set in turquoise sea, And deck the breast of beauteous Caribbee; Which, swelling gently round thee, holds thee dear, As queen of all fair islands, far and near. The cloud compelling Pele soars on high, Rearing her serrate head in proud defy, Gathering the raindrops into silvery rills Which wander singing down the verdured hills. 143 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES O, Josephine! thy memories clung, perchance, To this thy birthplace, fairest isle of France! And longing filled thy troubled heart to hear Once more the silvery chimes from St. Pierre. Once more in sunny path and quiet glade, By limpid pools, 'neath cool, refreshing shade, To wander forth, and thread the tropic maze Fastening the lovely view in one long gaze. [Following the destruction of Martinique, Mrs. Hiram Higgins, Harry's mother, added this clos- ing stanza.] O, Martinique, proud Pelee sealed thy doom Hast plunged thee in the darkest, deepest gloom. And can'st thou ever hope again to be The queen of all fair islands of the sea? The children thou hast left in deep despair Will never see again thy face so fair; Where singing brooks coursed down thy mountain side The burning lava found a place to hide. 144 TV TEBUCHADNEZZAR or old Neb, as 1 1 everyone called him, was a meek- eyed, loud-voiced mule. His external ap- pearance, to one uncultured in the science of mule character would lead to the belief that the animal before him, was of a very decorous and peaceful temperament. His color, a grayish brown, together with the long, narrow head, and a certain subdued way of casting down his eyes, fostered this idea and gave him quite a thoughtful ap- pearance. And then his ears those weath- er-cocks of every changing mood in his dis- position not a movement but meant vol- umes. If Neb's ears were forward, all was serene, if straight up he was hungry, while a backward trend was succeeded by an os- sified condition for an indefinite period. But as Uncle Moses Johnson said, and Un- cle Mose was an authority on mules, Neb's appearance was deceitful. The mule had become the property of 145 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES Uncle Mose through my father, who being unable either to work or sell him, did the next best thing and gave him away. This transfer of property did not seem to please Neb, for the very next day he backed Uncle Mose and a cotton bale down a ten-foot embankment, into a deep slough where they were found struggling in inde- scribable confusion by the next team which passed. Uncle Mose had been a slave of my fath- er's before the war, and after peace was de- clared had insisted on staying with the fam- ily, saying in his quaint way, "Ma'se Jeems and me done growed up togedder. Nebber cotch dis niggah leaben dis heah fambly foh shuah." A little cabin near the big house was the old man's home, and here he lived, doing such odd jobs as suited his declining years. Gourd vines and jessamine clothed the lit- tle place, while the mocking bird trilled forth his melody from the big magnolias which lined the lane in front. Goober peas, yams, grass nuts and water- melons grew in the little garden at the side of the house, and a huge scuppernong vine formed a snug arbor near the lane. To this 146 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES cool retreat on a summer day Uncle Mose and I would betake ourselves, and many a juicy melon here met its fate, while old Neb craned his head over the fence near by for an occasional bite. Uncle Mose, Nebuchadnezzar and myself were inseparable companions, and I loved them both with all the ardour that fourteen years can give. The long winter evenings were all passed in the little cabin, and many a pan of goobers were roasted over the hot coals in the big black fireplace, while Uncle Mose told thrilling tales of ghosts and wild beasts. One day in the fall I sauntered down to the cabin as usual. The mule and his mas- ter were both there, the former, with a very dejected look, was hanging his long head over the fence, while the latter was busily stirring a huge pot of lye hominy. I sat down on the chopping block and awaited developments. Pretty soon Uncle Mose looked up very solemnly and said: "Dat's de cussedess mule dat evah was bawn on dis heah plantation." "Why, what is the matter?" I asked. "Ise gwine gib dat mule away," continued the old man. He done eat up all Miss Sal- 147 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES ly's custard pies dat was out on de maple stump coolin', and I clar to gracious Ise gwine to sell dat mule 'fore sun down." I was not much alarmed at the threat, for I knew by experience that it would not be carried out, so I said calmly, "He certainly is a bad mule, but you said once that he wasn't nearly so bad as Jim Smith's, now, didn't you?" "Yes, sah! Yes, sah! Buddy and I says so yit. Why dat mule is a kerwolloper! Shoo! Why dey has to put de harness on him wid a hick'ry pole, an' I clar if dey don't have ter git a new pole ebbery time. Fac' ! kase Ise seed um, and dey named him Kerlamity, kase he kicked so many niggahs right squar in two. Why, massa! Jim Smith's driver, Rufus, nebber do know when he gwine ter die, dat mule so cantank- erous.' "Didn't they even try to break him of kicking?" I asked. "Dey kain't, Buddy, it's no use. Now if dat Rufus ud go out in de fiel at midnight, like I done tole him, and pick a right smart heap of hemlock balls, and say to hisself, 'Mule fodder charm me! Mule fodder charm me!' and den go home and feed dem 148 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES balls to dat ar mule why, Buddy, dat mule'd follow dat man, tame as a chicken." "Perhaps that is the reason Neb followed you down town last Easter Sunday, and got into so much trouble." Now, any allusion to Easter Sunday al- ways worried Uncle Mose, for it was on this particular day that Neb had broken through all rules and regulations, which a respecta- ble mule ought to follow. How it happened that the pasture bars were down that morning, nobody knows, but certain it was that they were down, and as surely did old Nebuchadnezzar avail himself of the opportunity to gain a short period of freedom. He walked slowly down the lane, nib- bling at a fresh bit of grass now and then, and slapping his lean flanks with his short, stumpy tail. At last the main road was reached one way led into the country; the other toward town. Here Neb paused, and took a leisurely survey of his surroundings. It was a balmy spring morning ; peace and contentment were in the air; the trees had already put forth their tender green leaves; the fields were ploughed and sown; wild flowers bloomed at the foot of every 149 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES hedge; the low monotonous hum of bees came from the peach and apple blossoms across the way; while the faint echo of the opening hymn was borne across the odor-laden air from the little brown church half a mile away. Whether it was that old Neb had an ear for music, or whether it was out of pure cussedness, I am not prepared to state, but after gazing for a moment at the tempting, green-bordered country road he slowly be- took himself toward the little brown church and the sweet echo. Now, not far from the little brown church, in a little brown house dwelt Miss Gallic Sparks; the place was a model of neatness and order, for Miss Gallic, being very prim herself, liked everything prim around her. A red-brick wall led straight up to the front door; there was a little tree on this side, an exact counterpart of one on the other side; there was a little flower bed here; ditto over there; while in the house things were arranged with such mathemat- ical accuracy that it fairly made one dizzy to contemplate them. Even the old family clock had been afraid to lose a minute in ten 150 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES years, so awed was it by Miss Callie's rec- tangular mind. Easter morning dawned bright and clear for Miss Gallic, and after the chickens had been fed, the dishes washed and the old fam- ily clock wound, she betook herself up- stairs to prepare for church, and to see if her new Easter bonnet was safe where she had put it the night before. Yes, there it was with its purple violets and dark green leaves a tempting bit of millinery indeed; anyone would be a little vain over such a work of art. So it was with great satisfaction that Miss Gallic started out half an hour later, and began her walk to church. There was a large congregation already seated, and people were still coming in by twos and threes when the old cracked bell began its melancholy call for belated sin- ners. This was Miss Callie's time for arriving, and here she came, preceded by old Deacon Sharp, whose duty it was to show her into her pew, although she had sat in it for twelve years, and knew the way to it far better than the deacon. It was right by the window, well up in front, and by rais- 151 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES ing one's head a little, a fine view of Kene- saw Mountain presented itself. In fact, it was a very snug little place in which to dream away the dull part of a Sunday ser- mon. So thought Miss Gallic as she set- tled into her retreat, and began to inspect her neighbor's Easter bonnets. The opening hymn had been sung, and the minister had proceeded to fifthly or sixthly. The congregation was fast settling into the period of dreamy attention, which the middle of a dull sermon is prone to in- spire. Deacon Sharp had fallen asleep, and the playful antics of a blue-bottle fly on his up- turned visage was affording infinite amuse- ment to the small boys in the seat behind. At this period a surprising interruption oc- curred. A huge head was thrust suddenly in at Miss Callie's window ; a huge mouth opened, descended and with a snap closed on that dainty Easter bonnet, with its dark green leaves and purple violets. With a shriek Miss Gallic made an un- availing snatch at her property, then fainted dead away, while old Neb continued calmly 152 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES to masticate the remnants of the bonnet be- fore the whole congregation. Such confusion! Such commotion! Dea- con Sharp awakened and yelled fire ; the minister knocked the water pitcher off the stand in his excitement; women shrieked; men, I regret to say, used strong language. Pandemonium reigned supreme. When at last old Neb had been driven off, and order partially restored, the congrega- tion settled slowly into its seats to hear the pastor's closing remarks. He said that he had always endeavored to curb his temper, and to preserve a kindly spirit toward all creatures, whether of the human or brute creation; but he suggested that a deputation of church members be or- dered to call upon that mule, and inflict cap- ital punishment on him. The closing hymn was then announced, but the organist was found to be in such a state of mental excitement that it had to be dispensed with, and the congregation scattered slowly to its respective homes, to think over the unusual occurrences of the day. 153 tf owl Broke URthe Sideshow WHEN I was a small boy living in the country town of Galva, a mammoth, glittering menagerie, hippodrome, circus and aquarium combined was billed to arrive on a certain day and give one of its world- famous, unrivalled oriental exhibitions. In due course of time it appeared on the village green and I rose early in the morn- ing for the express purpose of carrying wa- ter to the elephants, in case divine provi- dence should grant me this great boor. After many journeys to the town pump the elephant refused to absorb any more water and I was permitted to enter the sa- cred presence of the fat lady, the mammoth boa constrictor and the wild man from Bor- neo, in the side show. Zip was the wild man's name and a more bespangled, be- whiskered, idiotic looking creature I never saw. The lecturer went on to describe Zip as a most ferocious and bloodthirsty crea- ture. He enumerated as one of Zip's weak- 155 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES nesses an inordinate fondness for fresh, live frogs. He said that Zip would walk ahead of the show as it passed through the country and in rainy weather pick up dozens of big frogs in wayside puddles. These he would devour instanter with great gusto. He explained that this satisfied Zip's long- ing for human flesh and kept him gentle and kind, further remarking that as it had been dry weather for a month no frogs had been forthcoming and, consequently, Zip was in a highly ferocious state and had to be chained at night for fear he would eat the living skeleton or the fat lady. This produced a deep impression on my mind and I went home, only to meditate on Zip and his craving for frogs. The more I thought, the more dejected I became, that Zip should be deprived of his favorite re- freshment. Early in the morning I hurried down to the creek and after a prodigious wading in the soft mud I captured a dozen frogs and confined them securely in an old tomato can. As soon as the circus opened its doors, in a high state of excitement I entered the 156 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES side show and secured a good position in front of the crowd and directly facing Zip. The lecturer at last reached the point of telling the story of Zip's intense love for frogs. Instantly, at the conclusion, I thrust for- ward the opened can under Zip's nose and out hopped the collection, all over the plat- form. Zip fell backward off his chair and his face betrayed the extreme disgust he felt, while the lecturer's expression and lan- guage I forbear to depict. The show came to a dead stop. The lec- turer explained that Zip had eaten two quarts of decayed oysters the night before and had no appetite for frogs. I had "busted" the phenomenon, but the entire circus company hugely enjoyed the story and, as the elephant keeper smuggled me under the canvas at the night perform- ance, it served to lessen my deep humilia- tion. 157 Ouel&pptj F T I 'HERE are many so-called happy fami- 1. lies in museums and side shows, but usually the animals are overfed or drugged to render them sluggish and inert. Let me tell you a true story of a real, happy family, raised at Galva, Illinois. One evening, my mother received a shock upon discovering a young rat quietly sleep- ing in the bed with her youngest child. Being so small he was easily caught and placed in a wash tub which had been sug- gested for that purpose. My mother was opposed to the idea of killing the rat herself, so she sent for the family cat, a large black one, and at that time the fond mother of two young kittens. Placing her in the tub mother awaited de- velopments. Imagine her surprise when pussy, instead of pouncing upon the little creature and killing it, as expected, began quietly to stroke down its fur with her tongue. Nor did the rat seem to be at all 159 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES afraid of his foster mother, and upon her lying down, promptly curled himself up by her side and began to nurse with all the vig- or of a young kitten, while pussy purred and blinked in perfect contentment. Greatly wondering at such unnatural con- duct, my mother carried the tub downstairs and after making a snug bed of flannel for the ill-assorted pair, retired for the night. Meanwhile, puss was not idle, for the morning light disclosed not only the adopted baby but his two little foster brothers, the kittens all curled up together and fast asleep. Marvel of marvels ! What is it that tabby is just bringing in at the door? Sure as you live another little rat, and a lively lit- tle fellow, too, as he proves by kicking out vigorously with his little pink legs. He, too, is deposited with the fast in- creasing family, and again does pussy go out. Evidently, her family is not large enough, for two more little rats are added to it before she stops. Our happy family now became a promi- nent feature of the village and was visited by many people who were anxious to see so strange a sight. 160 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES The rats grew rapidly and were soon great, sleek fellows, almost as large as the kittens, whom they abused in the most un- brotherly fashion. Old Tabby was very partial to her adopt- ed children, and would cuff the kittens soundly whenever any disputes arose. The kittens were now weaned, and strange to say, pussy was constantly bringing in rats and mice for their food. Sometimes, my mother would let the whole family out to play around the room, but on these occasions puss was very so- licitous about them and would soon catch them by the back of the neck, and carry them away, one by one, until all were safe in their box. The rats would run all over her and it seemed an unfailing source of delight for them to play with her tail. They would gnaw poor tabby's claws until they bled and the kittens were whipped into an abject state of subjection by their active brothers. Whenever the rats wanted a drink they would perch on top of pussy's head and, leaning over, absorb the saliva from the corners of her mouth. So many people came to see the happy 161 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES family that my mother was compelled to put them out in the yard to avoid the nui- sance. One night, alas, unruly neighbor- ing cats found them and after a heroic fight with tabby, carried her adopted chil- dren off, to our great regret. 162 DURING a winter's sojourn on the island of Barbados, I was one day traversing the narrow streets of Bridgetown when I saw a sunburned Norwegian sailor approaching, bearing a chattering little marmoset on his arm. The little creature was attached by a string around its middle to the man's wrist and was evidently in great terror of its bur- ly captor. As we brushed past each other the mar- moset suddenly sprang to my shoulder and from thence ran with great rapidity down my arm and into my pocket, where it stren- uously resisted every effort to drag it forth. Concluding that Providence had present- ed me with an interesting little pet, I hasti- ly bargained with the sailor and for the con- sideration of four English shillings, was al- lowed to pursue my way with my hand clasped gently around the warm little ball in my pocket. 163 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES I soon learned that my pet was known to the scientific world as Jacchus Vulgaris and to the French people as the Ouistiti, while in England and America it is called the marmoset or squirrel monkey. Native Barbadians nickname it "Sankey Winkey," so I decided to shorten it to San- key. A few days afterward I purchased a mate for Sankey on board a schooner just ar- rived from Demerara and with recollections of the famous revivalists I called him Moody. My little evangelists, as my friends face- tiously dubbed them, were very near of a size, being about seven inches long, with bushy tails nearly a foot in length. Their fur was of a dark-brown color, sparsely sprinkled with gray and with par- allel rings of black running across the back and down the tail. Grotesque white side-burn whiskers hid their little black ears, while eyes of the pret- tiest hazel, black pug noses and sharp white teeth formed a countenance resembling that of a veritable "jack in the box." Both together weighed about a pound and I could conveniently carry them in my 164 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES coat pocket, where their comical little faces would pop out and in so quickly that stran- gers would declare that I had a toy in my pocket and was pressing a spring. Sankey and Moody always slept in a ci- gar box, warmly lined with wool, and when it began to grow dark they would become very anxious to retire. If I did not immediately bring their box they would chatter and scold at me with such expressions of alarm and anxiety de- picted on their wrinkled little visages that I would hasten to tuck them in just to en- joy their squeaks of contentment and de- light as they cuddled together in the most loving manner. In the morning I would be awakened by the shrillest of whistles ending with an im- ploring little note which plainly said "Please let me out !" Upon being liberated they would begin a play spell about the room ; chasing each other under and over the chairs ; scampering across bureau and bed ; leaping from picture to picture or hanging from the curtain cords. If the morning were a little cold they would soon become chilly and crawl into 165 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES bed with me, where they would continue their frolic under the covers, giving me sun- dry little bites now and then to remind me that breakfast should be ready. Fruit of all kinds they dearly loved the banana being a favorite, although the sour-sop, mango, sappodilla and custard ap- ple of the tropics were highly esteemed. Moody and Sankey looked upon cake and milk, ice cream, candy and honey as great dainties, but the delicacy par excellence was a juicy, fat grashopper or pinch-bug. They always regarded the latter with great cau- tion, seemed to know instinctively the dam- ger of its formidable pincers. When one was captured, brought in and placed upon the floor, Sankey would dance around it, inspecting it carefully and with much animation. His little eyes would snap and his slen- der red tongue dart in and out, while his whole countenance expressed anticipation of a feast yet to be gained by quickness and stratagem. Suddenly seeing his chance he would dart in sidewise at the bug, and before it had time to turn, bite off both pincers, after which he would sit on his little haunches with the 166 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES bug in his hands and contentedly munch his well-earned dinner. Sankey was always compelled to bite off the pincers on Moody's bugs, for Moody was bitten in his babyhood days by a huge beetle, which seemed to take away his ar- dor for the pursuit of large game. The marmoset is a delicate little creature and rarely survives the cold, damp climate of our eastern states longer than a few months. Great numbers of them die of con- sumption and pneumonia while coming to this country on the steamers. Owing to great care, my pets fortunately preserved their good health until I reached Chicago, when they begin to grow sluggish and inactive. Being in delicate health myself, my father jocularly decided that the two marmosets and the other monkey (meaning me) should be bundled off to California for the winter. So to California we went, where the warm sunshine and pure air did as much for mon- keys as for man. Every morning their box would be placed upon the piazza and while I sat reading they would run all over the house, fcom chimney to cellar, leaping from house to 167 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES tree and from branch to branch, scrambling in and out among the vines; playing hide and seek amid the roses, or robbing the poor birds of their eggs, which they devoured with great zest. If a huge hawk or turkey buzzard hap- pened to come sailing by high up in the air, they would run hastily to their box with cries of fear, nor would they venture forth again for a long time. The hawk, owl and snake are their great- est enemies amid the jungles of the Amazon river and though marmosets may be born and raised in captivity they instinctively dread these creatures. One day Sankey strayed over to a tall eucalyptus tree forty or fifty rods distant, and a red cow happening to come walking up the lane so frightened him with her bel- lowing that he ran across the field to a dense thicket, where after three days of searching I gave him up as lost. Poor little Moody was inconsolable and became so affected by his bereavement that he refused all food. He would sit for hours in the same posi- tion, uttering his plaintive little call, which 168 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES he was accustomed to use in summoning Sankey. Upon the seventh day of Sankey's ab- sence I learned from a neighbor that a strange variety of squirrel had been caught at a distant farm house. I at once visited the place, and to my inexpressible delight found Sankey; and a very woebegone looking little monkey he was, too, I can assure you. Adequately to describe the meeting be- tween my pets is too great a task for my pen; suffice it to say that Moody gave one little cry of joy and folded Sankey in his arms, while Sankey hugged Moody and kissed his little black nose in the exuber- ance of his glee. For the remainder of the day these two little comrades continued to caress and fon- dle each other, uttering sharp, pathetic cries of joy until our colored cook, who witnessed the meeting, was forced to shed tears to see (as she said) "two creatures love each other so." Sankey was the athlete of the two and al- ways comported himself in a dignified man- ner, while Moody was the comical clown and was constantly wrinkling his little face into the most grotesque expressions. 169 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES Sankey could leap six feet on a level or drop a distance of ten feet from one branch to another, while Moody would hang by his toes on a twig or turn somersaults along the piazza railing. At times Moody would catch Sankey by the tail and swing back and forth with great enjoyment, but he usually paid for his fa- miliarity by getting his ears soundly boxed. - One of the most highly valued members of our household was a gray African parrot named Polly, who never became reconciled to my new pets. Upon their arrival she hopped across the floor and inspected them curiously, exclaim- ing "Great Scott!" and "Go 'way!" trying at the same time to frighten them by snap- ping her beak. Contrary to my expectations, Sankey and Moody seemed perfectly able to protect themselves from Polly's rather vicious at- tacks by slapping her head and pulling her tail, this effectively subduing her malicious tendencies. They would steal any choice tidbit which might be given her and dance around in great glee while Polly sat helplessly on 170 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES her perch and uttered the direst threat she knew, viz.: "I'll put you in the closet!" Moody and Sankey disliked to take a bath and whenever they were bathed Polly was amply revenged for all her persecutions. She would sit back on her perch and laugh immoderately at their protesting cries, shouting "Oh, my!" "Hurrah for the Demo- crats!" "I'll throw water on you!" making at the same time a noise like bubbling wa- ter. Occasionally I would put Polly in the tub after bathing the monkeys and while I was sprinkling her she seemed to glean much satisfaction by using the most pro- fane words in her vocabulary, while Moody and Sankey sat near by dressing their fur and watching the operation with vast en- joyment. Sankey was very cleanly and washed his face and stroked his whiskers every day, but Moody was more slovenly and neglect- ed his toilet. Sankey would endure this as long as pos- sible, then he would capture Moody, forcibly dress his whiskers, look over his fur and smooth his tail, much to Moody's disgust. Both Moody and Sankey were very fond of a mirror and would stand before one for 171 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES hours, looking at their reflections. They seemed never to understand the mysteries of the glass and became lonesome if I removed it. I am glad that I cannot tell my readers how these little monkeys met their death, for they are with me on the piazza as I sit writing. Sankey is hunting for spiders up on the water-spout and Moody is trying with all his might to drag forth a gumdrop from my vest pocket. Pasadena, Cal. 172 Reminder, In the garden picking cherries, Both together; Azure sky and balmy breezes- April weather. "Maiden with the lips of red, May I beg a kiss?" I said; But she shook her curly head: "Oh, never!" "Were I a robin redbreast bold, In the tree, I'd beg a cherry from those lips, Of thee." But she answered with a pout, "You don't know what you're about- Robins steal!" 173 BIDDY M'CLANE lived all alone in an old tumble-down house on the out- skirts of the little village of Alva. Her hus- band, Michael, had been killed many years before while working as a section hand, and having no relatives or children Biddy had to get along as best she could. But then there was the cow such a homely cow and the truck patch and the hogs; not much, to be sure, but enough to delight old Biddy and solace her for Mich- ael's loss. What if old Brindle was ugly, with her bent horns and amputated tail; and the truck patch was small, and the hogs only four in number ! So long as Biddy had these to comfort her she was happy. Some said Biddy was unneighborly, others that she was dirty and slovenly, while even the small boys were prone to tease her by throwing stones at old Brindle and the hogs. 175 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES Mrs. McClane took great pride in her hogs, and had named the largest and fat- test one "Phelim" in honor of her brother in the "ould" country. The other three were called "Paddy," "Felix" and "Timothy," af- ter three deceased cousins. There was one exception among the boys who threw stones, a freckled-faced, red- headed little fellow named Teddy Flana- gan. Mrs. McClane was very fond of Ted- dy, for it was he who had brought old Brin- dle's tail home when she had inadvertently switched it into Mr. Smith's fodder cutter. To be sure, the tail was not worth much after it had been cut off, but it showed a thoughtful disposition in Teddy, and Mrs. McClane appreciated it. Teddy always hunted up old Brindle and the hogs if they didn't come home at night, and it was he who weeded out the truck patch and hoed the cabbages. Therefore, it was not strange to see Teddy enter Mrs. McClane's lopsided gate one morning and betake himself around the house to where she was churning. "The top o' th' mornin' to ye, Teddy, me bye," said Biddy, stopping the churn. "Have ye seen Phelim this mornin'?" 176 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES "No, mum, but I seed Paddy, Felix and Timothy goin' down by Mrs. McGroggins' as I were comin' over." "It's Phelim that niver came home last noight wid th' others, and it's worryin' Oi am fur fear the poor pig is strayed or sto- len." And Biddy's face grew redder with the thought. "Ye must be off to onct, Ted- dy, but wait till Oi get ye some cookies to lighten yer heart on th' way." And Biddy waddled into the house, returning with a handful of cookies which Teddy carried away with him on his search for Phelim. First of all, he went over to the old race- course where there was a muddy pool of water, but Phelim was not there, nor could he be found thereabouts. Teddy thought he knew all Phelim's haunts, but a visit to all of them revealed no trace of the missing hog. Finally, the boy sauntered over to the track and took the road leading down the big grade along by the railroad. He was almost ready to give up in despair when he met Farmer Johnson coming up the hill with a load of corn. "Have ye seen Phelim this mornin', Mis- ter Johnson?" cried Teddy, as soon as he was near enough to be heard plainly. 177 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES "Who's Phelim, my boy?" questioned the farmer. "Why, McClane's pig, to be sure, an' he got lost an' Oi'm huntin' him." "I don't know anything about Phelim, but there's a dead hog half a mile down there on the crossing; run over by the ex- press, I guess." Teddy's heart sank and his eyes filled with tears, as Farmer Johnson slowly moved on up the hill. What would Mrs. McClane do now if Phelim was dead? She had intended to send him to the county fair, where he was sure to take the prize, and she and Teddy were to have gone and seen the blue ribbon tied on his neck, but now there was to be no fair, no ginger-bread, pink lemonade, or horse racing. These were the thoughts that revolved under Teddy's shock of red hair as he walked slowly toward the crossing. Yes, there was Phelim, or all that was left of him, stretched out just as the fast ex- press had left him the evening before. After Teddy had cried a bit, he borrowed a neigh- bor's hand-cart and sorrowfully wheeled the mortal remains of Phelim home. Biddy was soon apprised of Phelim's un- 178 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES timely end, and the cart was trundled around into the back yard, where many tears were shed over his death. Her grief was changed to wrath, however, when she learned that it was the fast express which had caused Phelim's undoing. "Ochone, poor bye ! the same train as kilt poor Mike! Not contint wid killin' me husband, to take the bread and sup out o' me mouth, but Oi'll be aven wid the com- pany, Teddy, me son, and they'll have a hard time wid Biddy McClane, if she is a poor lone widdy." These lamentations and denunciations were interrupted by the appearance of Mr. Burgison. Mr. Burgison was engaged in the melancholy occupation of buying de- ceased pigs, which he used for purposes of soap. After the usual greeting, he delicate- ly hinted at his errand, but much to his sur- prise was met with a blunt refusal to sell. "It's no use, Mr. Burgison, Oi've me own use for Phelim, bad luck to them as kilt him, but it's meself that'll be aven wid th' coomp'ny or me name is not Biddy Mc- Clane. "The company will do what's right by 179 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES you," insinuated Mr. Burgison; "so you might as well let me have him." "O'ho, not they ! not they ! Not a cint did Oi get for the killin' of poor Mike, and 'twill be th' same wid Phelim, Oi'm thinkinV That evening Mrs. McClane and Teddy got out the big iron kettle which was used for making soft soap, and in a short time it was hanging over a blazing hot fire in the back yard. Biddy's revenge had fairly be- gun. Till late into the night did these two work, Teddy bringing fresh fuel, and Bid- dy stirring the sputtering contents of the cauldron. No wonder the neighbors thought that "Old Lady" McClane must be up to her uncanny tricks again. When at last the first grey streaks of dawn began to appear in the east, Teddy, under Biddy's directions, carefully loaded two great pails of simmering lard on the hand-cart and pushed off down toward the crossing, closely followed by Biddy carry- ing her best mop on her shoulder and vow- ing vengeance on the company. Engineer John Conley of the fast express was a little late that morning as he pulled into the village of Alva, and after he had re- ceived the signal, and was running well out 180 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES of the village he opened the engine a notch or two, "just to meet the grade at Dug- gan's," as he expressed it. "I never did like this stretch of road," he remarked to his fireman, as he glanced ahead; "in fact, none of the boys do." "Ye see," he continued, "after ye've climbed Duggan's and begin to run down on the other side, nothin' on arth would stop ye short of the curve at Old Sugar Loaf, and if a piece of rock from that cliff would fall on th' track, well, jest give me a snap o' th' finger fur all the chances I've got here." "Seems to me," said the fireman, "them tracks looks mighty shiney ahead," and as he spoke there was a sudden whirr of wheels and the huge drivers spun helplessly around. The heavy train gradually came to a stop, nearly at the top of the grade, and passen- gers and trainmen began to look out to see what was the matter. "Well, I'll be switched !" cried John Con- ley, as he leaped from the cab. "See here, Jim, if the tracks ain't greased fur half a mile, and good lard oil at that," he added, as he put his finger on the rail. "Well! if I had the feller here that put on that stuff I'd " He stopped as his 181 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES glance rested on two figures coming down the grade. One was a fat old woman, mov- ing along at a surprisingly rapid rate; the other a freckled-faced, red-headed little boy closely following her. "Oi greased th' tracks," panted Biddy as soon as she had fairly reached the spot. "And to think it were out o' spite to th' coompany! Oi greased th' tracks an' th' saints be praised! Tell 'em, Teddy," and Biddy sank down out of breath with her ex- ertions. "It was this way, sor," cried Teddy ex- citedly. "Me an' Mrs. McClane mopped th' tracks an' hurried up over th' hill an' down the' grade so as not to get caught, an' when we got to Sugar Loaf there was a big pile of rock on th' track, an' " He said no more, for trainmen and passengers with one im- pulse started for the spot. Half an hour later, when they returned and the story was known, John Conley said as he thought of his wife and babies : "Thank God, old lady, and passengers, all, that Bid- dy tried to get even with the company." One evening, a week later, Mrs. McClane was attending to her household duties and Teddy was sitting on the gatepost, eating 182 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES cookies, when the local agent of the rail- road walked down the road and into the house where he presented to Mrs. McClane and Teddy a check for five hundred dollars. There were horse racing, prizes and pink lemonade at the county fair that year, and among the crowds which surged around the Punch and Judy, the side shows, and the performing bear, were a fat old woman and a red-headed boy. 183 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES PLOT FOR A STORY (A Fragment) St. Paul's rocks, the summit of extinct volcanic peak. The open top leading to in- ternal world or country inhabited by curious beings having lights in their foreheads, etc. The hero is wrecked on St. Paul's rocks and happens across opening. He daringly de- cends and discovers odd inhabitants. He finds the heroine, who has been cast away with her father and whom they hold captive on account of the old man's medicinal lore. N. B. Put your imagination to work. 184 I'm a hypochondriac, With a bad pain in the back, My heart and liver are all sluffed away; With rheumatics I am doubled, By lumbago I am troubled, And a hundred ether tortures of decay. O, dear, what horrid feeling Is that now through me stealing! What with fever and the ague, What with shiver and with shake, And the medicine you take, It seems as if the devil loves to plague yoj. With neuralgia 2nd the mumps, I am always in the dumps; Hay fever keeps rne sneezing day and n'ght. Mustard plasters by the score Have kept me raw and sore, And I've had to take the Keeley cure ai Dwight. I have a case of boils, And I rub myself with oils, I daily take my hot and cold ablutions; I read with eager zest All the cures that stand the test, And ponder long on chemical solutions. I'll have to stop, I fear, To syringe out my ear, And it's time to take my antibilious pill; Then cod liver oil I'll gulp, And my nerve-reviving pulp O, it's awful when you feel so dreadful ill. 185 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES THE HAYSEED I'm just a simple countryman, with only average brains The little town of Podunk is my station; I'm deacon in the Baptist church, and drive to meet the trains In case a stranger needs accommodation. I visited this town last week the first time and the last (You'll never catch me back again, I swear) ; They buncoed me, they called me jay, and as a final blast They told me I had hayseed in my hair. 186 Just as Aurora was gilding the dawn I arose from my bed with a start, For the presence of smoke Caused me almost to choke And tingled my eyes with its smart. The hallway was filled with spirits in white, And garments were flowing and few; While infantile squeaks, And feminine shrieks, Made a terrible hullaballoo. Mrs. Brooking retained her presence of mind And hurried to turn on the faucet; Miss Wagoner, bless her, Proceeded to dress her, As I can attest, for I saw it. Mrs. Woolsey sent up an appeal to the sky, Mrs. Harmon soon glided upstairs, Where she donned a new gown, Threw the other one down, For sundry and divers repairs. In pajamas attired Phillips dashed to the street- The neighbors all thought he was crazy Mr. Higgins in white Was a beautiful sight Sure the ladies all say he's a daisy! 187 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES Poor Annie was wringing her hands in dismay, When the hosecart arrived on the spot, And in her great need Talked wholly in Swede, Which of course helped the firemen a lot! And what was the cause of this fear-kindling fire. Which produced such confusion and fright? Why, the lightning's quick bolt, Gave the gas pipe a jolt, Fused the iron, loosed the gas and started a light. 188 APPENDIX It seems fitting in this memorial volume to reprint from a Chicago newspaper an account of the efforts made to reach Dr. H. W. Thomas, off on a vacation, to return home to conduct the funeral services over the body of his young friend, Harry Hig- gins, who died in Chicago, August 16, 1897, at the comparatively early age of 28. Dr. Thomas was the pastor of the People's Church in Chicago, and an intimate friend of the Higgins family, especialy fond of Harry. His summer home was at Spring Green, Wis., a flag station about 25 miles from Madison, the cottage where Dr. Thomas was staying being four or five miles from the station with no easy means of com- munication. Reports the Chicago Herald of August 16: "Mr. Higgins, the father of Harry, first wired him yesterday morning, asking him to come to Chicago, and Dr. Thomas replied that he would flag an express which passed Spring Green about 2 o'clock yesterday af- ternoon. "Soon another telegram announced that the attempt to stop the express had been a 189 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES failure, and there were no other trains sched- uled to pass through Spring Green that would bring him to Chicago in time. Af- ter much difficulty Mr. Higgins got hold of officials of the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul Railroad and arranged to have them send a special train for the clergyman. Be- fore this was done, however, it was found that a freight train could be run through a little ahead of schedule time and take Dr. Thomas to Madison, where he could get a train for Chicago about 3 a. m. and arrive in Chicago at 7 this morning. "Meanwhile, telegrams had been passing between Spring Green and Mr. Higgins, and the doctor had promised to get to Chicago if it were within the range of possibility, so when the final telegram was sent telling him that the freight would pass Spring Green about 11 o'clock last night there was uncertainty regarding the clergyman's whereabouts, and the use of a special train, even as a last resort, was made impossible. " 'I am confident he will be here,' said Mr. Higgins last night. 'He has been an inti- mate friend of my family for eighteen years, and he was especially fond of Harry. I know he is as anxious to get here as I am 190 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES to have him. He and my son have been the best of friends, despite the disparity in their ages for the doctor is 50 and Harry was barely 28 every since Harry was quite a little fellow, and Harry was remarkably fond of him. This fact, apart from the re- gard we all have for Dr. Thomas, makes me especially anxious to have him conduct these last services. I am so worried by the non-receipt of an answer to my last tele- gram that if it would do any good I would send a special even at this late hour. The doctor's last telegram stated that he had fail- ed to stop the express, and that he did not see how he could get here. " 'But I know he is not sitting idly re- gretting the state of affairs all this time and I am inclined to think that he has either failed to get the telegram containing the information about the freight that will take him to Madison, or has started to drive the twenty-five miles there, or else his answer has been delayed. The telegraph service has been wretched. Of course, it is Sunday and the operator is not expected to be on duty all day. But in spite of the silence, which I confess worries me, I have every confidence in the strength of Dr. Thomas' 191 LITTLE PHILOSOPHIES attachment for my poor son and I am sure he will be here tomorrow morning. We could not bear to have any other clergyman officiate, and Dr. Thomas knows it. He has been more than a friend to all of us, and I am sure he appreciates how much we all want him and he will come on time, I am confident.' "Harry Higgins died Saturday morning and the funeral is set for this morning at 10 o'clock from the residence, 1733 Michi- gan avenue. The interment will be in Graceland. Mr. Higgins was born Sept 22, 1869. He has always been delicate and has traveled and sought in every way to main- tain his health, which has long been failing. His mind was unusually active, and he pos- sessed great natural ability in mechanical engineering, being a draughtsman of skill. If he had been endowed with health his friends believe he would have become fam- ous in a pursuit in which, following it only for pleasure, he showed marvellous profi- ciency." [It is gratifying to state that Dr. Thomas arrived in time to conduct the services. S. T. C.] 192