L 1 / ¥ ¥ 1 1 .0 1^1 ' 'IM^ AV^^-l^ ^ pj) C4^ Ci WPO , ijt^ui ^CNI^^ /^ LIBRARY THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA SANTA BARBARA PRESENTED BY ERIC SCHMIDT Hmerican Ibistoric ^owns HISTORIC TOWNS OF NEW ENGLAND Edited by LYMAN P., POWELL Illustrated Second Edition — Third Impression G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS NEW YORK & LONDON Sbe f{iUciterboctter iprese 1899 COFYRIGHT, 1898 BY G. p. PUTNAM'S SONS Entered at Stationers' Hall, London Vbc Kntclierboclier press, 'new ]i?orli PREFACE IN July, 1893, while the first Summer Meet- ing of the American Society for the Ex- tension of University Teaching was in session at the University of Pennsylvania, I con- ducted the students, in trips taken from week to week, to historic spots in Philadelphia, the battle-fields of the Brandywine and of Ger- mantown, and to the site of the winter camp at Valley Forge. The experiment was brought to the attention of Dr. Albert Shaw, and at his instance I made a plea through the pages of The American Monthly Review of Reviews, October, 1893, for the revival of the mediaeval pilgrimage, and for its adaptation to educa- tional and patriotic uses. After pointing out some of the advantages of visits paid under competent guidance and with reverent spirit to spots made sacred by high thinking and self-for- getful living, I suggested a ten days' pilgrimage in the footsteps of George Washington. IV Preface The suggestion took root in the public mind. Leading journals commended the idea. New England people, already acquainted with the thought of local historical excursions, hailed the proposed pilgrimage with enthusiasm. Men and women from a score of States avowed their eagerness to make the experiment ; and at the close of the University Extension Sum- mer Meeting of July, 1894, in which I had lectured on American history, I found myself conducting for the University Extension So- ciety a pilgrimage, starting from Philadelphia, to Hartford, Boston, Cambridge, Lexington, Concord, Salem, Plymouth, Newburg, West Point, Tarrytown, Tappan, New York, Prince- ton, and Trenton. The press contributed with discrimination the publicity essential to success. Every commu- nity visited rendered intelligent and generous co-operation. And surely no pilgrims, mediae- val or modern, ever had such leadership ; for among our cicerones and patriotic orators were : Col. T. W. Higginson, Drs. Edward Everett Hale and Talcott Williams, Hon. Hampton L. Carson, Messrs. Charles Dudley Warner, Richard Watson Gilder, Charles Carl- ton Cotifin, Frank B. Sanborn, Edwin D. Mead, Preface v Hezekiah Butterworth, George P. Morris, Pro- fessors W. P. Trent, William M. Sloane, W. W. Goodwin, E. S. Morse, Brig.-Gen. O. B. Ernst, Major Marshall H. Bright, and Rev. William E, Barton. I had planned in the months that followed to publish a souvenir volume containing the more important addresses made by distinguished men on the historic significance of the places visited ; but as the happy experience receded into the past a larger thought laid hold of me. Why not sometime in the infrequent leisure of a busy minister's life edit a series of volumes on American Historic Toivns f Kingsley's novels were written amid parish duties, and Dr. McCook has found time, amid exacting ministerial duties, to make perhaps the most searching study ever made by an American of the habits of spiders. Medical experts agree concerning- the value of a wholesome avoca- tion to the man who takes his vocation seri- ously ; and congregations are quick to give ear to the earnest preacher whose sermons be- tray a large outlook on life. A series of illustrated volumes on American Historic Towns, edited with intelligence, would prove a unique and important contribution to vi Preface historical literature. To the pious pilgrim to historic shrines the series would, perhaps, give the perspective that every pilgrim needs, and furnish information that no guide-book ever offers. To those w^ho have to stay at home the illustrated volumes would present some compensation for the sacrifice, and would help to satisfy a recognized need. The volumes would probably quicken public interest in our historic past, and contribute to the mak- ing of another kind of patriotism than that Dr. Johnson had in mind when he defined it as the "last refuge of a scoundrel." I foresaw some at least of the serious diffi- culties that await the editor of such a series. If all the towns for which antiquarians and local enthusiasts would fain find room should be included, the series would be too long. A staff of contributors must be secured, pos- sessing literary skill, historical insight, the antiquarian's patience, and enough confidence in the highest success of the series to be pre- pared to waive any requirement of adequate pecuniary compensation. Space must be ap- portioned with impartial but not unsympathetic hand, and the illustrations selected with due discrimination. And, finally, publishers were Preface Vll to be found willing to assume the expense required for the production in suitable form of a series for which no one could with accuracy forecast the sale. The last and perhaps most serious difficultv was removed almost a year ago when Messrs. G. P. Putnam's Sons expressed a willingness to take the commercial risk involved in publishing the present volume, which will, it is hoped, be the first of a series. Contributors were then found whose work has, I trust, secured for the undertaking an auspicious beginning. Critics inclined at first glance to speak harshly of the difTerences among the contributors in style and in literary method are advised to withhold judgment till a closer reading has made clear, as it will, the fundamental differences there are amone the towns them- selves in history and in spirit. Adequate reasons which need not be stated here have made it advisable to omit Lexington, Groton, Portsmouth, the Mystic towns, and other towns which would naturally be included in a later volume on New England Towns, in case the publication should be continued. So many have co-operated in the making of this book that I will not undertake to name Vlll Preface them all. But I cannot forbear to acknowledge the valuable assistance I have received at every stage of the work from Mr. G. H. Putnam, Mr. Georofe P. Morris, associate editor of The Congregationalist, and Miss Gertrude Wilson, instructor in history at the historic Emma Willard School. The Century Com- pany has, in the preparation of the first chapter on Boston and the chapter on Newport, kindly allowed the use of certain illustrations and portions of articles on Boston and Newport, which have appeared in St. NicJiolas and old Scribners respectively. Some of the illustra- tions for the Portland chapter have been fur- nished by Lamson, the Portland photographer. The Essex Institute, with characteristic gen- erosity, has loaned most of the cuts for the Salem chapter. The Ohio State Archaeologi- cal and Historical Society has allowed the reproduction from The Ohio Qiia^-tci'ly of some of the designs in the Rutland chapter, while certain of the illustrations in the Cape Cod Towns chapter appeared first in Fabnoiith Illustrated. Conscious of the editorial shortcomings of the volume, I still dare to hope that it may have such a cordial reception as will justify the preface IX publication at some time of a volume on His- toric Towns of the Middle States. Lyman P. Powell Ambler, Pennsylvania September 21, 1898. CONTENTS Introduction George Perry Morris . PAGE I Portland Samuel T. Pickard . • 53 \. Rutland, Mass. Edwin D. Mead 81 Salem George Dimmick Latimer 121 Boston . r Thomas Wentworth Hig < ginson ( Edward Everett Hale 167 ,87 Cambridge Samuel A. Eliot 211 Concord . Frank B. Sanborn 243 Plymouth Ellen Watson . 299 Cape Cod Towns Katharine Lee Bates . 345 Deerfield George Sheldon 403 Newport Susan Coolidge 443 Providence William B. Weeden . 475 Hartford Mary K. Talcott 507 New Haven . Frederick H. Cogswell 553 LLUSTRATIONS Plymouth in 1622 fro)itispit:'Ci' PORTLAND White Head, Gushing Island ...... 55 Deering's Woods 59 Showing brook which the soldiers had to ford in the fight with the Indians in 1689. First Parish Church ...... -63 Containing the Mowatt cannon-ljall. The Birthplace of Longfellow ..... 67 HenryW. Longfellow 73 N. P. Willis .......... 77 RUTLAND Dr. Cutler's Church and P.arsonage at Ipswich Ham- let, 17S7 - 83 View of Rutland Street •' . . . . . -85 Manasseh Cutler '........ 91 ' Reproduced by permission of A. S. Burbank, Plymouth, Mass. - Reproduced by permission of the Ohio State Archseological and Historical Society, Columbus, Ohio. ^ Reproduced by permission of C. R. Bartlett, Rutland, Mass. xiii XIV Illustrations Nathan Dane ' RuFUS Putnam ■ Site OF Marietta AND Harmak, 1788 '-^ The " Central Tree " " The Old Rutland Inn * View of Rutland Centre from Muschopauce Hill ^ British Barracks ■■ The Rufus Tutnam House ^ SALEM Governor Endicott's Sun-Dial and Sword The First Meeting-House, 1634-39 ' . Governor Simon Bradstreet ■ . Governor John Endioott ' The Pickering Fireback ' . Old Cradle ' The Roger Williams' or " Witch House ' Witch Pins ' . Timothy Pickering .... Some Old Doorways ' . BowDiTCH Desk and Quadrant ' William H. Prescott .... Nathaniel Hawthorne From an engraving from a painting by C. G. Thompson. Nathaniel Hawthorne — Birthplace of Hawthorne — House of the Seven Gables — Grimshawe House — The Old Town Pump ' Seal of the City of Salem ' ...... PAGE 92 95 lOI 103 104 107 112 114 122 123 125 126 128 131 137 142 153 155 158 160 163 165 166 ' Reproduced by permission of the Essex Institute, Salem, Mass. ' Reproduced by permission of the Ohio State Archaeological and Historical Society, Columbus, Ohio. ^ Reproduced by permission of C. R. Bartlett, Rutland, Mass. ■• Reproduced by permission of the .Vciu England Magazine, Boston, Mass. Illustrations XV BOSTON Succory or " Boston Weed " Trinity Church ' Boston in 1757 From a drawing by Governor Pownall. " Old Corner Bookstore ' Oliver Wendell Holmes Public Library Map of Boston in 1722 Charles Sumner . Phillips Brooks . Faneuil Hall in the i8th Century ■Governor Thomas Hutchinson . From a portrait in possession of the Massachusetts Histori- cal Society, once the property of Jonathan Mayhew. The Old South Church in its Present Condition. Built in 1729 Old State House James Otis Samuel Adams Boston Massacre From a painting by A. Chappel. Landing of British Troops at Boston, 1768 Map of Boston in 1775 The Frog Pond on the Common as it now Appears Seal of the City of Boston .... 167 l6g 172 175 177 179 180 1S2 184 189 I go 193 197 199 201 203 205 206 209 210 CAMBRIDGE Harvard College Gate Home of Longfellow . 213 215 Reproduced by permission of Daniel W. Colbath & Co., Boston, Mass. XVI Illustrations " The Muses' Factories." — Lowell . Statue of John Harvard and Memorial Hall College HoLWORTHY Hall, Harvard College Home of Lowell . Washington Elm . James Russell Lowell Gymnasium, Harvard College William E. Russell 221 Harvari ) 225 229 231 233 235 237 240^ CONCORD Concord River, by Thoreau's Landing Ralph Waldo Emerson (1858) From a sketch by Rowse. The Fight at the Bridge ' . Redrawn from Ralph Earle's sketch of 1775. The Battle of Lexington, April 19, 1775 From an old print. Muskets of Captain John Parker The Minute-Man"^ French's first statue. Hawthorne's Old Manse . Revolutionary Inn' . Henry Thoreau (1857) ' Graves of the Emerson Family Home of Emerson A. Bronson Alcott (1875) ' . Louise M. Alcott Seal of the City of Concord 245 252- 255- 263. 266- 269. 274 277 280 2S3 287 292: 295 297- Reproduced by permission of the A'ew England Magazine, Boston, Mass. Reproduced by permission of the W. H. Brett Engraving Co., Boston, Mass. Illustrations XVlt PLYMOUTH Facsimile of a Page from Governor Bradford's Manu- script, " Plimoth Plantation " .... 301 The original is now in the Boston State House. Pulpit Rock, Clarke's Island ' 302 The Early Norman Doorway at Austerfield Church . 305 The Old Fort and First Meeting-House, on Burial Hill, 1621 ' 307 Governor Edward Winslow ' 313. The Harbor > 321 Plymouth in 1622 ' 323, The " Mayflower" in Plymouth Harbor ' . . . 333 From the painting by W. F. Halsall, in Pilgrim Hall. The Old Colony Seal . 334 The Landing of the Fathers, Tlymouth, December 22, 1620 335- Copied from an old painting on glass. The Fuller Cradle 33T An Old English Spinning-Wheel 338- The Doten House, 1660 ' 339' The oldest house in Plymouth. The Grave of Dr. Francis Le Barran, the Nameless Nobleman ' 342- Seal of the City of Plymouth 343. CAPE COD TOWNS The Beach, Falmouth ^ 347 Map of Cape Cod Section ■" 349- Provincetown 35S ' Reproduced by permission of A. S. Burbank, Plymouth, Mass. - Reproduced by permission of the Falmouth Board of Industry, Falmouth,. Mass. * Reproduced by permission of Geo. H. Walker & Co., Boston, Mass. XVUl Illustrations Fai "Wharves at Provincetown Provincetown in 1S39 . From an old drawing. Highland Light .... •Oyster Point, Wellfleet Bishop and Clerk Light, Hyannis Old Windmill, Eastham Ruins of the Chatham Light Life-Saving Station at Wellfleet Bass River Bridge, South Yarmouth Barnstable Inn .... Bird's-eye View of Falmouth ' . The Village Green '^ . Shirick's Pond, Falmouth ' The Whale-Ship "Commodore Morris" mouth Captains who Sailed in Her DEERFIELD •Old Deerfield Street, 1671-1898 Frary House, i6g8 Oldest in the county. Third Meeting-House, 1695-1729 (Old Indian house on the right.) Parson Williams's House Built by the town, 1707 — standing 1S9S. Door of "Old Indian House" Hacked hy Indians Now in Memorial Hall. Tombstones of Rev. John Williams and his Wife Stephen Williams, 1693-1782 .... A captive of February 29, 1703-4. ' Reproduced by permission of the Falmouth Board of Industry, Falmouth, Mass. - Reproduced by permission of W. H. Hewins, Falmoulli, Mass. 359 3(>3 371 373 376 378 383 386 387 389 395 397 399 401 405 408 419 421 423 425 428 Illustrations XIX George Fuller, 1822-1884 . . . . Buffet from " Parson Williams's" House Now in Memorial Hall. PAGET 437 439' NEWPORT The Old Stone Mill .... Newport in 1795 ' . . . . George Berkeley, Dean of Derry " . Whitehall, the Berkeley Rksidence, Built 1729 " Purgatory " ^ Rochambeau's Headquarters ' . Life Mask of Washington ■* Made by Houdon in 1785. The Parsonage of Mrs. Stowe's " Minister's Wooi.ng" Doorway of Old House on Thames Street ^ . General Nathanael Greene ' . . . . From one of Malbone's best miniatures. Seal of the City of Newport ..... 445 447 451 455 457 459' 463 466 46 8 471 473 PROVIDENCE View of Providence From the south. Roger Williams Received by the Indians From a design by A. H. Wray. The Roger Williams Monument Stephen Hopkins ^ . . . . . 477 479 483 490 ' Reproduced by permission of Simon Hart, Newport, R. I. ^ Reproduced, with permission, from Porter's Two Hundredth Birthday of Bishop George Berkeley^ puhlisiied by Messrs. CiiarLes Seribner's Sons. ^ Reproduced by permission of The Century Co. * Reproduced, with permission^ from the American Monthly Review of Re- vieivs, from the editor's article on the Renaissance of the Mediainot." In due time, when pioneers from New Eng- land found their way to the then virgin lands of Central New York, the valley of the Ohio, and the northern half of the vast valley of the Mississippi, they carried with them the po- litical and religious ideals of New England. Where they were a large majority of the set- tlers within a given territory, or where at the time when its organic structure was forming they dominated it, the town was established as the political unit in the territory. Such was the case in Michigan, Illinois, Wisconsin, and Minnesota. Where New England settlers joined with those from the Middle States, or Introduction 19 the border States of Kentucky and Virginia, they often found it necessary to compromise on a system in which the county and the town were peers, as in Ohio, Indiana, and Iowa. But, as experience has proved, the modified township system, as it is found in Ilhnois and Michig-an, is more advantageous than the system of divided authority, and many of the Western States are gradually adopting it, Cali- fornia, Nebraska, and the Dakotas having re- cently made it either permissible or mandatory. Nor are signs lacking that in the South, as its white population increases by immigrants from the North, as the patriarchal and pastoral type of civilization gives way to the modern indus- trial and corporate type, as cities and towns multiply, and local as well as State pride has free chance to develop, there will be an adop- tion of the modified township system and a gradual abolition of the county system. Among the changes of the last half-century in New England, one notable one has been the tendency of the larger towns to adopt the city form of government as soon as it was deemed that the increase of population war- ranted the step and made it necessary. This fact, as well as the marked increase of urban 20 Introduction population in New England/ is counted by some students of her social development as in- dicative of retrogression, however inevitable. Certain it is, that if the town of Brookline, with its population of 16,164, ^^^ its property valuation of $64,169,200,^ and annual appro- priations of more than $900,000, can still work the ancient machinery of the town-meeting without the slightest loss either of a pecuniary or a civic sort, other towns, with a smaller population and much smaller valuation of prop- erty, cannot reasonably claim that mere physi- cal growth is any warrant for the change from a system so purely democratic to one less so and much more readily adapted to serve the ends of partisan bosses and those who batten at the public crib. The third of the indispensable and ever- present institutions found in every New Eng- land town or village is the public school, open ' In 1810, less than 15 per cent, of the population of Rhode Island was found in towns of 8000 or more inhabitants ; in iSgo, nearly 80 per cent. In Massachusetts, in 1790, five per cent, were urban dwellers ; in 1890, 70 per cent. In Connecticut, in 1830, 3 per cent, lived in cities ; in 1890, more than 50 per cent. In 1840, 3 per cent, in New Hampshire lived in cities ; in 1890, more than 25 per cent. In 1820, in Maine, 4 per cent, lived in cities ; in 1890, 20 per cent. ■^ C/. Town Records of Brookline, 1897-98. Introduction 21 to all and supported by all. Roman Catholic, Protestant and Jew, Caucasian and African, French Canadian and Irish, Italian and Portu- guese, English and German, mingle in the school-room and learn the essential likeness of each to the other, their common and peculiar gifts, and their common duties to God and the State. No man in the community is so rich or aristocratic as to escape taxation for sup- port of the school, even though his children may never darken the doors. No man in the community is so humble or so poor as to be debarred from sending his children to the highest as well as to the lowest grades. Un- sectarian in the sense that they derive support from taxpayers of all sects and inculcate the dogmas of none, secular in the sense that re- ligion is not a part of the curriculum, they ever have been a bulwark to the cause of religion, partly by reason of the example of the teaching force, who usually are men and women with religious faith as well as mental attainment, and partly because they have de- veloped the rational powers of men, and thus enabled them to discriminate between super- stition and truth. Beginning, jn the more favored and advanced communities, with km- 2 2 Introduction dergarten instruction for young children, and not ceasing until the youth or maiden is pre- pared to enter the college or university, the State and the town, co-operating together, make it possible for every parent to give to his children, or for every ambitious or friend- less boy or girl to secure for himself or herself, at the public expense, a thorough preparatory education. Nor is there any item of his vearly tax bill which the typical New Englander pays with greater alacrity and more certainty of belief as to its equity or economy than his annual contribution for popular edu- cation. For it is ingrained in his very being, woven into the texture of his life, to believe, as Garfield said, that " next in importance to freedom and justice is popular education, with- out which neither freedom nor justice can be permanently maintained." Moreover, being shrewd as well as a man of high principles and a lover of learning for its own sake, the New Englander is convinced that It pays to be educated, and to have educated neiirhbors and children. His reasoning takes this form : The more children in the schools, the fewer youths and adults in the jails and poorhouses. The better informed the mill operatives, the Introduction 23 larger the output of the mills. The higher the standard of living, the larger the demand for the product of the soil and the loom, and the better the home market. The more in- telligent the voter, the less the seductive power of the demagogue and the " political boss." In short, the New England people have always believed, and still believe, what the inscription on the Public Library in Bos- ton declares : THE COMMONWEALTH REQUIRES THE EDUCATION OF THE PEOPLE AS THE SAFEGUARD OF ORDER AND LIBERTY. That the policy has been a wise one, is indi- cated by New England's share in the various struggles for liberty which the country has seen, the stability of all her institutions, her exemp- tion from disorder and Industrial disputes which culminate in violence, her inhospitality to " boss rule " in politics, and the thrift and prosperity of her citizens. Historically speaking, the "public school" is a very ancient New England institution. Boston had one as early as 1635, and, in 1647, the General Court of Massachusetts enacted : 24 Introduction " That to the end that learning may not be buried in the graves of our forefathers, it was ordered in all the Puritan colonies that every township, after the Lord hath increased them to the number of fifty house- holds, shall appoint one to teach all children to write and read ; and when any town shall increase to the num- ber of one hundred families, they shall set up a Gram- mar School, the master thereof to be able to instruct youth so far as they may be fitted for the University." Nine years earlier, in 1638, the same body had founded a college (Harvard) at Cambridg-e, in order, as they said, that "the light of learning mieht not q-q out, nor the studv of God's word perish." These two acts of the General Court may be reckoned as the germs from which has developed that system of secondary and higher education which has given Massachu- setts the place of leader in the history of educa- tion in America. In 1645, Connecticut passed a law similar to the earlier Massachusetts statute of 1642, but not until 1701 was Yale University founded at New Haven. Rhode Island did not have a system of popular education until just as the eighteenth century was closing. New Hamp- shire, Maine, and Vermont accepted the Mas- sachusetts methods and ideals, with some minor variations.. Introduction 25 Devout as were the founders of New Eng- land, it followed inevitably that they should establish institutions where their children might obtain a distinctly religious training as well as a general education. Thus, for a long period of New England history, the Christian academy, under denominational control, flour- ished just as it does now in the West, and for much the same reason. As the public-school system has expanded, as town after town has added the high school to the primary and gram- mar school, as sectarian fences have toppled over or ceased to be restrictive, the academy of the old type has ceased to play the part it once did in New England life. But, in any survey of the history of education in New England, it should not be overlooked. Many excellent institutions of this type still survive to meet the demands of those persons who either distrust the public high school, or else are unable to send their children to one, owing to residence in towns where the school system has not developed to that extent. But, as a rule, the New England boy and girl, no matter what the social station or wealth of his or her parent, still " derives his or her prepara- tion for college or life from the community in 26 Introduction which he or she Hves." And, as PhilHps Brooks said in his address at the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the Boston Latin School : "That is the real heart of the whole matter. ... It constitutes the greatest claim of the public-school sys- tem. It represents the fundamental idea of the town undertaking the education of her children. . . . It edu- cates the thought of law and obedience, the sense of mingled love and fear, which is the true citizen's true emotion to his city. It educates this in the very lessons of the school-room, and makes the person of the State the familiar master of the grateful subject from his boy- hood. ... It is in the dignity and breadth and serious- ness which the sense that their town is training them gives to their training, that the advantage of the public- school boys over the boys of the best private schools always consists." Emigrating- westward, the pioneers from New England carried with them the public school, the academy, and the college. Con- necticut's settlers in the Western Reserve, Ohio, took with them conceptions of duty in this respect, which profoundly affected the fu- ture history of the commonwealth. Ohio has come to be, in this later day, what Virginia was in the early history of the country — " The Mother of Presidents " — and has more col- Introduction 27 leges within its borders than any State in the Union, It was a Massachusetts soldier, Gen. Rufus Putnam of Rutland, a Congregational clergyman. Rev. Manasseh Cutler of Hamil- ton, Massachusetts, and an Ipswich, Massachu- setts, lawyer, Nathan Dane, who founded Marietta, Ohio, and induced Congress to put into the epoch-marking Ordinance of 1787 governing the Northwest Territory, this re- markable declaration and article : " Religion, and morality, and knowledge, being necessary to good government and the happiness of mankind, schools and means of education shall forever be encouraged." As early as 1797, Muskingum Academy was founded in the territory conceded, and in due time came Marietta, Oberlin, Wabash, Illinois, Knox, Beloit, Olivet, and Ripon Colleges, all Christian institutions within the territory origi- nally governed by the Ordinance of 1787. Precisely similar has been the record of New England emigrants beyond the Missis- sippi. Wherever they have settled and shaped the civic ideals, whether in the Dakotas, Iowa, Minnesota, Nebraska, Kansas, Colorado, or in California, there they have laid the foundations of a free public-school system, and of academies 28 Introduction and colleges controlled by Christian educators and trustees. Nor do they cease to believe in the academy and the college now that the com- petition of the State university in the States of the interior and the West is so intense, and the reliance of the treasuries of these Western Christian institutions upon the gifts of their friends in New England increases rather than abates. Impressed with the need, in all sections of the country, of a well-instructed and intelli- gent electorate, and convinced that the South was too poor to provide for itself the schools that its unfortunate illiterate whites and blacks needed. New Englanders early began to con- tribute to the support of academies and colleges in the South. Not always welcomed by the ruling class, the pioneers in this work perse- vered, and many of them have lived long enough to receive the thanks of those who at first despised and scorned them. Millions of dollars have gone from New England for the founding and support of such institutions as Berea College, Kentucky; Atlanta Univer- sity, Georgia ; Hampton Institute, Virginia ; Fisk University, Tennessee ; and Tuskeegee Institute, Alabama. Three New Englanders, Introduction 29 George Peabody of Danvers, Mass., John F. Slater of Norwich, Conn., and Daniel Hand of Guilford, Conn., have given between them $5,100,000 in bequests or donations for the es- tablishment or assistance of schools, colleges, and training schools for teachers in the South. The Peabody Education Fund, from 1868 to 1897, distributed in the South, from its income alone, a sum amounting to $2,478,527. Nor is New England's influence, education- ally speaking, limited to the United States. The educational system of Honolulu is based on New England models. Robert College, near Constantinople, has spread the principles of Christian democracy in Church and State, as they are held by New Englanders, through- out Bulgaria and the Balkan states, and given ideals to the Young Turkey party in the land where the Sultan is dominant. The Hugue- not Seminary in South Africa was distinctly modelled after Mt. Holyoke Seminary, and its first teaching staff was made up of New Eng- land women educated at Mt. Holyoke. Wher- ever American Protestant missionaries have gone and established schools and colleges in Asia, Africa, or Europe, almost invariably the master spirits, the men and women who 30 Introduction have given character to, and estabHshed the ideals of, the institutions, have been graduates of the New England colleges and academies, even if not New-England-born. Subtract from the history of education in the United States, during the latter half of the century just closing, the influence of four men, Horace Mann, Henry Barnard, Charles Wil- liam Eliot, and William Torrey Harris, and you take from it the best that it stands for to-day. All of these men were born in New E norland. All were reformers. All showed great administrative ability. All lived to see their radical views find general acceptance. Horace Mann did his greatest work in re- modelling the public-school system of Mas- sachusetts. Barnard did a similar work in Connecticut, Rhode Island, and Wisconsin, but his greatest service to the cause of education was his masterly editing of the Americafi Journal of Education, from 1855 to 1881. Eliot has transformed the curriculum of Har- vard, the oldest university of the North, has resolutely contended for the largest measure of election by the student in his selection of studies, his personal conduct, and his personal attitude toward God, and he has Introduction 31 made " Veritas " in very truth the appropriate motto of the leading American institution of learning. Harris, as an interpreter of the phi- losophy of education, both in his many writ- ings and more numerous addresses, has lifted the popular conception of the profession of teaching to a loftier and more rational plane, while his control of the United States Bureau of Education since 1889 has given it a stand- ing abroad, and a measure of utility at home, which it is gratifying to contemplate. Few towns in New England possess more charm, whether of nature or society, than the towns in which her long-established institu- tions of learning have taken root, flourished, and dominated the life of the community. New Haven, Cambridge, and Providence are all cities now with a heterogeneous population and large manufacturing interests, and they each contain thousands oi inhabitants to whom Harvard, Yale, and Brown are of as little practical benefit or concern as if they were situated in remote Hawaii or Porto Rico. Nevertheless, the chief glory of each of these large towns is its institution of learning, and to each there come added beauty of life and elevation of tone because of the presence 32 Introduction within its borders of so many thirsty and hungry students and highly educated and apt instructors. It would be idle, however, to claim, for instance, that Cambridge to-day is quite as unique and charming in its simplicity and purity of life, or quite as classic in its atmosphere, as it was in the days when the town was a village, when the university was a college, and when thought and manners were as ideal as James Russell Lowell in his essay, Cam- bj'idge Thii'ty Years Ago, and Thomas Went- worth Higginson in his latest book. Cheerful Yesterdays, picture them. To study the American college town at its best, unsullied by the grime of industrialism and the temptations and conventionalities of city life, one must go to hill-towns like Am- herst and Williamstown, Massachusetts, or Hanover, New Hampshire. But even there, standards of living and conduct among stu- dents and instructors have been changed and influenced by the habits and ideals of the uni- versities and the cities. Hence, to see the American college town in all its pristine sim- plicity and beauty, one now has to go to the new New England, and visit such institutions as Oberlin, Beloit, Knox, Iowa, and Colorado Introduction 33 colleges, concerning which, and others of their type, Mr. Bryce writes : " They get hold of a multitude of poor men who might never resort to a distant place for education. They set learning in a visible form, plain indeed and humble, but dignified even in her humility, before the eyes of a rustic people, in whom the love of knowledge, naturally strong, might never break from the bud into the flower, but for the care of some zealous gardener. They give the chance of rising in some intellectual walk of life to many a strong and earnest nature who might otherwise have remained an artisan or storekeeper, and perhaps failed in those avocations." ' New England has a railroad mileage greater in proportion to its population and area than any section of the United States. Indeed, it is greater than that of any European country. In 1895, there were 11.77 i^iiles of railroad for each one hundred square miles of territory, and 14. II miles for each ten thousand inhabit- ants, the proportion in Massachusetts rising to 26.35 rniles for each one hundred square miles. The same year, the number of em- ' Chapter cii., Bryce's American Commonwealth. For an interest- ing and significant account of the impression made by one of the Western Christian colleges upon a friendly and thoroughly trained French observer, see the translation of an article by Th. Bentzon (Madame Blanc) in the Revue des Deux Monde s, printed in McClure's Magazine, May, 1895. 3 34 Introduction ployes engaged in railway traffic in New Eng- land was 60,593. On January i, 1840, New England had only 426 miles of railway. Jan- uary I, 1895, it had 7,398 miles of road, which reported gross earnings of $82,845,401, and 1 16,069,178 passengers transported during the previous year. The significance of these facts is apparent to the casual traveller through New England as well as to the economist. Nerves of steel and iron have bound urban and rural popu- lations together, made the cities and towns accessible to the inland trader, farmer, and producer, and the country districts accessible to the wares of the merchant and manufac- turer, and to the lover of nature. Suburban residence for the urban toiler has been made possible and cheap, while New England, as a whole, has been transformed from an agricul- tural and seafaring section to one with great and most varied manufacturing interests. Boston has come to be next to the largest centre for exports in the country, and the com- mercial and industrial as well as the intellect- ual capital of New England. From the standpoint of aesthetics, the rail- road station in the average New England Introduction 35 town is a monstrosity, although in all fairness it should be said that within a decade there has been a notable improvement in this respect. But from the standpoint of economics and social science, the railway station is subordi- nate only to the church and the school in its service to society ; and the degree of civiliza- tion in any community may be accurately com- puted by the volume and variety of the traffic done with its station agents. If one is desir- ous of studying the New England town, let him frequent the platforms of the railroad station and the freight-house, ascertain how large a proportion of its inhabitants leave town daily to do business in the adjacent city, how many travel even farther in pursuit of pleasure or on business, how many depart on outings that imply thrift and a desire for recre- ation and rest. Let him study the bulk of the raw material as it comes from the wool- markets of Europe and America, from the cotton fields of the South, and from the mines of Alabama, Pennsylvania, and Minnesota, and then inspect it as it goes forth again, converted into manifold forms of useful tools, machinery, fabrics, etc., and he will not lack for data re- specting the status of the community. If he 36 Introduction finds that pianos, organs, books, pictures, the latest devices of sanitary science, bicycles, etc., are arriving, he may justly infer that the in- habitants are in touch with the outer world and eager to take advantage of the latest dis- coveries of men of science. Nor is it impru- dent to assert that such a study made in the average New England town will indicate eco- nomic wants, and their satisfaction, such as no communities elsewhere can display. Compared with other sections of the country. New England has railroads which are better supervised by the States, more honestly con- structed, capitalized and administered, and more responsive to public needs. Concen- tration of power and responsibility in the hands of the few goes on apace in New Eng- land, as well as elsewhere, so that now there are only four railway corporations of much im- portance in New England. But, through such governmental agents as the Massachusetts Board of Railroad Commissioners (organized in 1869, and the model for similar bodies else- where in the nation), the people still retain the whip-hand, still protect the rights of individuals, communities, and investors, and bring about those reductions in fare and freight charges, Introduction 37 and those Improvements in service, which pub- He welfare and safety demand. No attempt — however brief or superficial — to describe the life of the New England town of the last decade of the nineteenth century, especially in the States of Massachusetts, Con- necticut, and Rhode Island, could justifiably fail to note the transformation — economic, physical, and social — which the bicycle and trolley electric railroad have wrought in the life of the towns of those States. New England capitalists and New England inventors were the first to put on the market safety bicycles that were well constructed, adapted for daily use or pleasure, and reason- ably cheap, and New England still retains the lead in the domestic and export trade in bicycles. Naturally, then, New England people were the first to purchase the product of their own factories. Space does not suffice to indicate here how general now is the use of the bicycle even in the remotest hamlets, and how it has changed modes of living. Farm- ers' boys and girls among the lakes and hills of Maine and Vermont, fishermen's children on the sand-dunes of Cape Cod, run their er- rands, visit their neighbors, and get their daily 38 Introduction sport with the bicycle. Artisans and profes- sional men in all the towns and cities oro to and from their shops, offices, and homes on steeds that require no fodder, and while doing it gain physical exercise and mental exhilaration that transportation in the old ways never furnished. Horses still are in demand for sport and draught w^ork, and the few who love horses continue to breed and own them. But for the multitude a far cheaper and more tractable kind of steed has come, one which rivals the locomo- tive as well as the horse and forces steam-railway managers to face serious problems, mechanical and fiscal. As to the electric street railway, perhaps a few facts relative to Massachusetts may indi- cate a state of affairs that to some extent is typical now of the section, and will become more so as population in New Hampshire, Maine, and Vermont drifts townward. From i860 to 1889, the number of street-rail- way companies in Massachusetts increased only from twenty to forty-six, and the mileage from eighty-eight to 574, the motor force of course being horse-power. From 1889 to 1897, the number of companies increased from forty-six to ninety-three, and the mileage from 547 to Introduction 39 141 3, the motor power being almost exclu- sively electric. During the same period, the number of passengers carried on the ten main lines increased from 148,189,403 in 1889, to 308,684,224 in 1897. The total capital in- vested in these street railways now amounts to $63, 1 1 2,800, and, in 1 897, earned 7. j^ per cent, on the average. So much for statistics which are impressive in themselves. But if one would appreciate the magnitude of this traffic, and the radical transformation which the new power and im- proved service have wrought in the life of the people who patronize these railroads, he must do more than compare statistics. He must note the result of making the residence in the suburb and the workshop in the city accessible to a degree that the steam railway cannot ex- pect to duplicate, of giving city dwellers oppor- tunities to journey seaward and hillward at a trifling expense, of providing residents of the villages with inexpensive transportation to the towns and residents of the towns with trans- portation to the cities, of cultivating the know- ledge of and love for open-air life and nature among city dwellers and of enlarging the social horizon and area of observation of the villager, 40 Introduction of giving a poor man a vehicle that transports him with a speed and a sense of pleasure that vies with that of the high-priced trotter of the wealthy horseman, of giving to society a cen- tripetal force that tends to take city workers countryward at a time when other social forces, centrifugal in their tendency, are drawing him cityward. Naught would occasion more bewilderment to the ancient residents of Marblehead, Hing- ham, or Plymouth, could they return to their former places of abode, than the " Broomstick Trains" which Oliver Wendell Holmes's fancy pictured thus : " On every stick there 's a witch astride, — The string you see to her leg is tied. She will do a mischief if she can. But the string is held by a careful man, And whenever the evil-minded witch Would cut some caper, he gives a twitch. As for the hag, you can't see her. But hark ! you can hear her black cat's purr, And now and then, as a car goes by. You may catch a gleam from her wicked eye." These trains whirl through the crooked streets with a mysterious, awe-compelling power, that would suggest witchery were it not for the Introduction 41 clang of their alarm bells, and the knowledge that fares must be paid. They disturb the quiet and solemnity of many an ancient village, and have brought knowledge of evil as well as of good to many a youth. What railways and steamship lines have done in'bringing peoples of all climes and continents nearer together, and thus at once widened men's area of knowledge and sympathy, and contracted the physical area of the earth, this the electrically propelled motor is doing on a smaller scale for the people of the towns of the ancient commonwealths of New England. In ante-bellum days. New England and the South were, perhaps, most unlike in their at- titude toward manufacturing, and the differ- ence was one that meant far more than a mere incident of difference of climate or a difference of opinion as to sectional or federal fiscal policy. The art of manufacturing, as New Englanders had practised it for generations be- fore what is now known as the " factory system " developed, had been based on a universal recognition of the nobility of labor, the neces- sity for personal initiative, and the duty of thrift. Toil was considered honorable for men and women alike. Every hillside stream was 42 Introduction set at work turning the wheels of countless mills. Yankee ingenuity was given free play in the invention of appliances, and Yankee in- itiative saw to it that after the raw material was converted into the finished product, mar- kets were found in the newer settlements of the Interior and West, or in Europe and Asia. Many a farmer was a manufacturer as well. Home industries flourished, and no month in the year was too inclement for toil and its reward. With the application of steam power to the transportation of freight and passengers, with the invention of the spinning-jenny and the perfecting of the cotton loom and the develop- ment of the " factory system " of specialized and divided labor. New England, quick to per- ceive wherein her future prosperity lay, at once leaped forward to seize the opportunity, and the relative superiority thus early gained she has not lost, even though other sections more favorably situated as to accessible supplies of fuel and raw materials have, in the meantime, awakened and developed. Whether judged by the legislation govern- ing their operation, their structural adaptability to the work to be done, their equipment of Introduction 43 machinery, the variety and quaHty of their product, or the intelHgence and earning ca- pacity of their operatives, the New England factories can safely challenge comparison with those of any in the world, and the typical fac- tory towns of New England, whether along her largest rivers, such as Lowell and Hart- ford, or at tide-water, as Fall River and Bridge- port, or nestled among the hills, as North Adams or St. Johnsbury, are the frequent sub- ject of study by the deputed agents of Euro- pean governments or manufacturers, anxious to ascertain what it is that makes the Ameri- can manufacturer so dangerous a competitor in the markets of Europe, Asia, and Africa. Few more interesting movements in the his- tory of man's upward struggle have been chronicled than the successive waves of immi- gration which have swept into the factories of towns like Lowell, Massachusetts, and Man- chester, New Hampshire. First came from the hill towns and farms the daughters of the origi- nal English, Irish, and Scotch settlers — women like Lucy Larcom, — then the Irish, specially imported from Ireland, and then the French from Canada. The Irish came when the origi- nal stock became, in its own estimation, too 44 Introduction select for daily toil in the factory. The French came at an opportune time for the employers, when the Irish were also stirred by loftier am- bitions. And it is already apparent that, whereas the French came, at first, only to win money to take back to Canada, now they are settlino^ down to become citizens as well as residents, aspiring to higher and other realms of activity — in short, getting ready to give way in turn to some other nationality. Of course, nothing just stated should be inter- preted to imply that the ideals of New Eng- land respecting the honorable nature of toil have changed, or that her factory operatives have ceased to be men of all races including the English. She has, however, witnessed or rather been the scene of a remarkable process of assimilation and transformation of races such as none of the manufacturing towns of England have seen. Thus far, consideration has been given to those factors in the life of the community which it may truthfully be said are to be found in a large majority of the towns and villages of New England. It would be necessary, for a complete study of the New England town at its best, to include other factors, such as the Introduction 45 savings-bank, the local lodges of the fraternal, secret orders, the co-operative bank — known in the Middle States as the building loan associa- tion, — the daily or weekly local newspaper, and the gossip and wisdom retailed by the habitues of the " village store," which, in many of the smaller towns, serves as the clearing-house of ideas, local and national. Nor could any thorough study of the New England town as an institution fail to note at least the beneficent effect which the exclusion of shops where in- toxicating liquors are retailed has had upon all of the States, thanks to that measure of prohibition which has been made possible through statutory or legislative enactment. So that, in the towns of the agricultural districts of New England, the legalized dram-shop is unknown, as are all the attendant moral and economic evils that follow in its train when the traffic is tolerated. Nor is the possibility of ex- cluding the saloon from larger towns — manu- facturing and residential — to be gainsaid in view of the record established by such cities as Cambridge, Somerville, Chelsea, Brookline, and Newton, Massachusetts. In fact, Cambridge, with its more than eighty thousand inhabitants, for nearly twelve years now has enforced local 46 Introduction prohibition in a way to make its method of doing so a model for the country ; the secret of the method by which it secures an annual " No-license vote " and a non-partisan adminis- tration of all city affairs being, in short, the union of temperance men of all degrees of abstinence, Jews and Christians of all sects, and citizens of all national parties on the simple platform — " No saloons, and no tests for local officials other than fitness, and sound- ness on questions of local policy." But there is one factor in the life of very many of the New England towns to-day that cannot be passed by without some allusion. It is the town or city library. In many in- stances the gift of some private donor, who was either born in the town, and making a home and fortune elsewhere desired to testify that he was not unmindful of ancestral en- vironment and of youthful privileges, or else accumulated a fortune in the town and de- sired both to perpetuate his memory and to render a public service, the library building usually stands as a token of that marked in- terest in public education and public welfare which Americans of wealth reveal by gifts, generous to a degree unknown elsewhere in Introduction 47 Christendom, competent European judges be- ing witnesses. i\ppleton's Animal Encyclo- pedia records a total of $27,000,000 given to religious, educational, and philanthropic institu- tions in the United States, in sums of $5000 or more, by individuals, as donations or bequests during the year 1896. In this list are recorded gifts, amounting to $195,000, to establish or to endow town libraries in New England. Sometimes the major portion of the contents of the library building is also the gift of the generous donor of the edifice, but, usually, the town assumes responsibility for the equipment and maintenance of the library, deriving the necessary income from appropriations voted by the citizens in town-meetings or by aldermen and councilmen, members of the local legislature, and assessed and collected pro rata according to the valuation of property, just as all other town or city taxes are col- lected. But, whether the gift of some private individual or the creation and property of the town, the fact remains that the handsomest public buildings in New England to-day are the public-library buildings, and in no depart- ment of civic life are the New England States and towns so far in advance of those of other 48 Introduction sections of the country as in their generous annual appropriations for the maintenance of this form of individual and civic betterment. New Hampshire is to be credited with the first law permitting towns to establish and to main- tain libraries by general taxation. This she did in 1849. Massachusetts followed in 1854, Vermont in 1865, Connecticut in 1881. Bos- ton, however, deserves credit for being the pioneer in public taxation for a municipal library, and to the Hon. Josiah Quincy, grand- father of its present mayor, who, in 1847, proposed to the City Council that they request the Legislature for authority to lay a tax to establish a free library, belongs the honor of having founded in America a form of muni- cipal and town activity, than which, as Stan- ley Jevons says, in his book Methods of Social Reform, " there is probably no mode of ex- pending public money which gives a more extraordinary and immediate return in utility and enjoyment." Already, library administrators and far- sighted educators and publicists foresee a time when it will be as compulsory for towns to es- tablish and support free public libraries as it now is compulsory for them to establish and Introduction 49 support free public schools. Massachusetts, perhaps, approaches nearer that ideal now than any other State, only ten of its 353 cities and towns being without public libraries. Fortunately for the sociologist, the historian, the economist, and the lover of literature, the inhabitants of New England have not failed to chronicle in various forms and ways the deeds and thoughts of their contemporaries. Thus there is a large class of historic documents of which Bradford's history of Plimoth Plantation is the magntLni opus. Then there are innumer- able town histories, — of which the four-volume history of Hingham, Massachusetts, is a model, — family genealogies, sermons, diaries, volumes of correspondence, such as that which passed between John Adams and his wife, memorial addresses, such as Emerson and G. W. Curtis delivered at Concord, and Webster and Rob- ert C. Winthrop at Plymouth, which inform and often inspire all who patiently explore their contents. Last, but not least, there are the products of New England's representative authors, who in prose or poetry have recorded indelibly the higher life of their own or of passing generations. In short, a literature- loving people has given birth to literature, and 50 Introduction the New England town of the past can never totally fade out of the memory of future gen- erations so long as men and women are left to read the poetry of Longfellow, Whittier, Holmes, and Aldrich, Lowell's Biglow Papers^ Harriet Beecher Stowe's Oldtown Folks and A Minister s Wooing, the short stories of Sarah Orne Jewett, Mary E. Wilkins, Rose Terry Cooke, Alice Brown, Maria L. Pool, and Jane G. Austin, the prose romances of Hawthorne and F. J. Stimson, and the histories of Palfrey, Bancroft, Parkman, and Fiske. That New Englanders in the past have been and even now are provincial, is the indictment of Europeans and of some Americans. That they have developed reason at the expense of imagination, utility at the expense of beauty, is also afifirmed. Their Puritan ancestors are the butt of the ridicule of the caricaturist, of ultra-Liberal preachers and devotees of materi- alistic science, and of those who have never read history, European or American. No less an authority than Matthew Arnold has de- scribed the life of New England as " uninter- esting." To all such critics, the New Englander can and will reply with dignity and force when proper occasion offers, but this is not the place Introduction 51 even to summarize his argument. Suffice it to say that the children of New England are ever returning to her. They sojourn for a time in Europe, the valley of the Mississippi, in South- ern California, and in Hawaii. They find more salubrious climes, more beautiful works of ecclesiastical and municipal art, better mu- nicipal government, and sometimes greater opportunities for investment of capital and ability and choicer circles of society than those which exist in the towns in which they were born or reared. But in due time the yearning for the hills, valleys and seacoast of rocky and rigorous New England, for the established in- stitutions, the generally diffused intelligence, the equality of opportunity, the sane standards of worth, and the inspiring historical traditions of the early home becomes too strong to be resisted longer, and back to the homestead they come — some on annual visits, some as often as the exchequer permits, some never to depart. New England has thousands of citi- zens to-day who, having either made, or failed to make, their fortunes in the West, have re- turned to New Enofland to dwell. Once a New Englander, always a New Englander, in spirit if not in residence.. Travel abroad, or 52 Introduction residence elsewhere, may modify the austerity, broaden the sympathy, poHsh the manners, and stimulate the imagination of the New Eng- lander, but it never radically alters his views on the great issues of life and death, or makes him less of a democrat or less of a devotee of Wisdom. '^mm, HISTORIC TOWNS OF NEW ENGLAND PORTLAND "THE GEM OF CASCO BAY" By SAMUEL T. PICKARD PORTLAND enjoys a peculiar distinction among New England cities, not only by reason of the natural advantages of her loca- tion, but because of the historical events of which she has been the theatre, and the men of mark in literature, art, and statesmanship whom she has produced. Among the indenta- tions of the Atlantic coast there is no bay which presents a greater wealth and variety of charming scenery, in combination with the ad- vantages of a safe and capacious harbor, than that on which Portland is situated. It is 53 54 Portland thickly studded with islands which are of most picturesque forms, presenting beetling cliffs, sheltered coves, pebbly beaches, wooded heights, arid wide, green lawns dotted with summer cottages. It is of the beauty of this bay that Whittier, who was familiar with its scenery, sings in TJie Rajiger : '* Nowhere fairer, sweeter, rarer. Does the golden-locked fruit-bearer Through his painted woodlands stray ; Than where hillside oaks and beeches Overlook the long blue reaches. Silver coves and pebbled beaches, And green isles of Casco Bay ; Nowhere day, for delay, With a tenderer look beseeches, ' Let me with my charmed earth stay ! ' " The peninsula upon which Portland is lo- cated is almost an island. It is nearly three miles long, and has an average width of three quarters of a mile — making it in area the smallest city in the United States, and the most compactly settled, for its forty thousand inhabitants occupy almost every available building spot. At each extremity of the pen- insula is a hill on the summit of which is a wide public promenade, affording charming 56 Portland views — to the east, of the bay, the islands, and the blue sea beyond ; to the west and north- west, of the White Mountain range, all the peaks of which are visible, the intervening dis- tance being about eighty miles. The Western Promenade is the favorite resort at sunset ; the Eastern has charms for all hours of the day. Both can be reached by electric railways. In 1614, Captain John Smith, of Pocahontas fame, came prospecting along this coast, and gave the name to Cape Elizabeth, which it still bears, in honor of the Virgin Queen, then re- cently deceased. The first settlers, George Cleeves and Richard Tucker, came hither in 1632, and the settlement was known as Casco until the name was changed to Falmouth in 1658 ; it was incorporated as Portland in 1785. There were but few settlers in the first forty years, and these lived in amity with the In- dians until the time of King Philip's War. In 1676, the settlement was utterly de- stroyed by the savages, and all who were not killed were carried into captivity. One of the killed was Thomas Brackett, an ancestor of the statesman who in these later days has made the name famous — Thomas Brackett Reed. Mrs. Brackett was carried by the In- Portland 57 dians to Canada, where she died in captivity. Two of her grandchildren came back to Fal- mouth when the place was rebuilt after the second destruction by the French and Indians, in May, 1690. In 1689, a large body of French and Indians threatened the town. They were routed in Deering's Woods by troops from Ply- mouth Colony, commanded by Major Church. Eleven settlers were killed and a large number wounded. It is a curious fact that Speaker Reed is also a descendant of the first settler, Cleeves. There is something remarkable in the persistency with which the descendants of the pioneers returned to the spot where there had been complete and repeated massacres of their ancestors. There are many families in Portland beside the one mentioned above who are descended from the pioneers who were killed or driven off by the savages. The first minister of Falmouth was the Rev- erend George Burroughs, who escaped the massacre of 1676 by fleeing to one of the is- lands in the bay. Unfortunately for him, be- fore the place was rebuilt he removed to Salem ; he was too independent, however, to suit the dominant clergy, and was hanged as a wizard in 1692, on charges incredibly ridicu- 5S Portland lous. The speech made by this worthy man on the scaffold brought the people to their senses and ended the witchcraft craze. His descendants also went back to Falmouth and are represented in many families of the pre- sent city of Portland, who take no shame from the hanoring- of their ancestor. So thorough was the second destruction of the place in 1690, that no one was left to bury the victims of the slaughter. Their bleached bones were gathered and buried more than two years after by Sir William Phips, while on his way from Boston to build a fort at Pemaquid. The settlement of the peninsula was resumed after the treaty of peace concluded at Utrecht in 1 713, and for sixty years thereafter the growth of the place was rapid. When the town was bombarded and burned by a British squadron in October, 1775, there were nearly three hundred families made homeless — about three quarters of the entire population. For nine hours, four ships anchored in the harbor threw an incessant shower of grape-shot, red- hot cannon-balls, and bombs upon the defence- less town, wdiich had shown its sympathy with the patriot cause in a practical way after the battles of Lexineton and Bunker Hill. The 6o Portland spirited citizens of Falmouth might have avoided the bombardment by giving up a few cannon and small-arms ; but this, in town meet- ing, they refused to do, even when they saw the loaded guns and mortars trained upon them at short range, and knew that Captain Mowatt had a special grudge against the place because of an insult put upon him by some of the citizens a few months earlier. The spirit of the town was not broken by the terrible punishment it received. A few days after Mowatt sailed away, while the ruins were still smoking, a British man-of-war came into the harbor to forbid the erection of batteries, and the demand was met by the throwing up of earthworks and the placing of guns, which forced the immediate departure of the ship. The lines of these earthworks are still to be traced at Fort Allen Park, a beautiful pleasure ground on Munjoy overlooking the harbor, and they are preserved with care as a relic of Revolutionary times. Another relic is a can- non-ball thrown from Mowatt's fleet, which lodged in the First Parish meeting-house, and is now to be seen in the ceiling- of the church which occupies the same site. From this ball depends the large central chandelier. There Portland 6i was an incident of the bombardment which illustrates the simplicity and coolness of a heroine whose name deserves a place beside that of Barbara Frietchie. The fashionable tavern of the town was kept by Dame Alice Greele, and here, during the whole Revolu- tionary period, the committee of public safety met, the judges held their courts, and political conventions had their sessions. It was here that the citizens in town meeting heroically voted to stand the bombardment rather than give up the guns demanded by Mowatt. But after making this brave decision they hastily packed up all their portable possessions and removed their families to places of safety, some not stopping short of inland towns, and others finding shelter under the lee of a high cliff that used to be at the corner of Casco and Cumberland Streets, at no great distance from their homes. Braver than the bravest of the men of Falmouth, Dame Alice would not de- sert her tavern, although its position was so dangerously exposed that every house in its vicinity was destroyed by bursting bombs and heated cannon-balls. Throughout that terri- ble day she stood at her post, and with buck- ets of water extinguished the fires on her 62 Portland premises as fast as kindled. When Mowatt beg^an to throw red-hot cannon-balls, one of them fell into the dame's back yard among some chips, which were set on fire. She picked up the ball in a pan, and as she tossed it into the street, she said to a neighbor who was passing : " They will have to stop firing soon, for they have got out of bombs and are making new balls, and can't wait for them to cool ! " Portland ought to mark with a bronze tablet the site of Alice Greele's tavern. The building stood until 1846 at the corner of Congress and Hampshire Streets. It was then removed to Washington Street. Portland had a rapid growth of population and increase in wealth during the European disturbances caused by the ambition of Napo- leon. The carrying-trade of the world was almost monopolized by neutral American bot- toms, and ship-building became then, as it continued to be for a long time afterward, a leading industry along the Maine coast. Great fortunes were made by Portland ship-owners. Many fine old-fashioned mansions that now ornament Congress, High, State, Spring, and Danforth Streets, were built by merchants in the first years of the present century, and are 63 FIRST PARISH CHURCH. CONTAINING THE MOWATT CANNON-BALL. 64 Portland reminders of the peculiar conditions of that time. A sharp check to the rising tide of prosperity was given by the embargo act of 1807. After the peace of 181 5, the trade with the West Indies grew into great importance, and for fifty years was a leading factor in the commerce of Portland. Lumber and fish were the chief exports, and return cargoes of sugar and molasses made this the principal market for those commodities — the imports in these lines for many years exceeding those at New York and Boston. West India molasses was dis- tilled in large quantities into New England rum, until the temperance reform, under the lead of the Portland philanthropist, Neal Dow, closed up the distilleries ; in their place came sugar factories and refineries which turned out a more wholesome product. But about thirty years ago, changes in the methods of making sugar caused the loss of this industry to Portland. The development of the canning business has of late years been an important feature of the industrial prosperity of Maine, owing partly to the fact that the climate and soil of this State produce a quality of sweet corn that cannot be matched in other States, and also to the fact that the system of canning now in use Portland 65 was a Portland invention. All over the in- terior of Maine may be found corn factories owned by Portland merchants, and, on the coast, canneries of lobsters and other products of the fields and fisheries of Maine, Portland is the winter seaport of the Cana- das, and several lines of steamships find car- goes of Western produce at this port. For this business the port has excellent facilities, as it is the terminus of the Grand Trunk Rail- way system, which has its other terminus at Chicago, There is another line to Montreal, through the White Mountain Notch, which, like the Grand Trunk, owes its existence to Portland enterprise. Of late years the lakes and forests and sea-coast of Maine have, to a marked degree, become the pleasure-ground of the Union, and, naturally, Portland is the distributing point for the rapidly increasing summer travel in this direction. Its lines of railway stretch northward and eastward to regions abounding in fish and game ; the White Hills of New Hampshire and the Green Mountains of Vermont are within easy reach. Steamers from this port ply along the whole picturesque coast to New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. During the summer 66 Portland months, eight or ten pleasure steamers make trips between the city and the islands of Casco Bay, furnishing a great variety of pleas- urable excursions. These islands, except the smallest of them, are the summer homes of a multitude of families — many of them from Canada and from the Western States. The ancient Eastern Cemetery, on the southern slope of Munjoy, is the burying- place of the pioneers, including the victims of the French and Indian massacres of two cen- turies ago. The graves most frequently visited are those of the captains of the U. S. brig Enterprise and His Majesty's brig Boxer, both of whom were killed in the naval engagement off this coast, September 5,1813. By their side lies Lieutenant Waters, mortally wounded in the same action. The poet Longfellow was in his seventh year at the time of this fight, and his memory of it is enshrined in Afy Lost Youth : " I remember the sea-fight far away, How it thundered o'er the tide ! And the dead captains as they lay In their graves, o'erlooking the tranquil bay, Where they in battle died." Commodore Edward Preble, of Tripoli fame, and Rear-Admiral Alden, who fought at Vera u. t ^»=9S" 68 Portland Cruz, New Orleans, and Mobile, both Port- landers, are buried here. There is also a monument commemorating the gallant Lieu- tenant Henry Wadsworth, who fell before Tri- poli in 1804, — a volunteer in a desperate and tragic enterprise. He was a brother of Long- fellow's mother, and a new lustre has been added to his name by the nephew who bore it. In this ground also, but unmarked, are the graves of the victims of the French and Indian siege and massacre of 1690, and of the eleven men killed in the more fortunate battle of the previous year. The first house in Portland built entirely of brick was erected in 1 785, by General Peleg Wadsworth, who was Adjutant-General of Mas- sachusetts during the Revolution ; it is now known as the Longfellow house, and stands next above the Preble House, on Congress Street. The poet was not born in this house, but was brought to it as an infant, and it was his home until his marriage, in 183 1. It is now owned and occupied by his sister, Mrs. Pierce, who has provided that eventually it shall be- come the property of the Maine Historical So- ciety, which ensures its preservation as a reminder that Maine gave our country its most Portland 69 widely known and best-loved poet. The house in which Longfellow was born is the three- story frame building at the corner of Fore and Hancock Streets. Around the corner, on Hancock Street, is the house in which Speaker Reed was born. For his services in the Revolutionary War, Massachusetts gave General Wadsworth a large tract of land in Oxford County, to im- prove which he removed to Hiram, and the family of his son-in-law, Stephen Longfellow, thereafter occupied his residence in Portland. To the end of his life, the poet made this house his home whenever he visited the scenes of his youth, and many of his best poems were written there. The central part of the hotel adjoining was the mansion of Commodore Ed- ward Preble, built just before his death in 1807, and some of the best rooms in this hotel have still the wood-carving and other ornament- ation given them by the hero of Tripoli. A grandson of the Commodore was one of the officers of the Kearsarge when that ship sunk the rebel cruiser Alabama, in the most pictur- esque naval engagement of modern times. We have seen that Portland has a history connecting it with the French and Indian 70 Portland Wars, the Revolution, and the War of 1812. It was also the scene of a curious episode in the late Civil War — the cutting out of the United States revenue cutter Caleb Gushing, in June, 1863. The cutter had been preparing for an encounter with the rebel privateer Ta- cojty, which had been capturing and burning many vessels on the coast of New England. A delay in fitting her out had been occasioned by the illness and death of her captain. In the meantime, the Tacony had captured the schooner y4r^/^<:;', and transferred her armament to the prize, which, after burning the Tacony, boldly sailed into Portland harbor in the guise of an innocent fisherman, with Lieutenant Reade in command. His purpose was to burn two gunboats then being fitted out in the harbor, but he found them too well guarded. He then turned his attention to the cutter, which was preparing for a fight with him with no suspicion that he was lying almost along- side. Captain Clarke had died the day before Reade's arrival, and Lieutenant Davenport, a Georgian by birth, was in command of the cutter. At night, when only one watchman was on deck, a surprise was quietly effected, and the crew put in- irons. With a good wind Portland 71 the cutter might easily have gotten away from the sleeping town and slipped by the unsuspi- cious forts ; but she was becalmed just after passing the forts, and in the morning three steamers were armed and sent in pursuit. At the time it was supposed that the Southern lieutenant had turned traitor, but the event proved his loyalty ; for he refused to inform his captors where the ammunition was kept, and they had only a dozen balls for the guns, which were all spent without injury to the pursuers. The affair was watched by thous- ands on the hills and house-tops, and on yachts which in the dead calm were rowed to the scene. At length the town was startled by the blowing up and utter demolition of the cutter ; the Confederates had set fire to the vessel and tried to escape in the boats, but were at once captured by the steamers which had been circling around them. The Archer was also captured, with all the chronometers and other valuables of the vessels bonded or destroyed by the Tacony. It proved an im- portant check to the operations of the Confed- eracy on the sea, and it came just one week before the battle of Gettysburg and the capture of Vicksburg. 72 Portland The first British squadron to enter the harbor of Portland after the bombardment by Mowatt in 1775, came just eighty-five years afterward to a day. It was sent to give dignity to the embarkation of the Prince of Wales in i860. It was in Portland, at what are now called the Victoria wharves, that the Prince, then a young man of nineteen, took his last step on American soil. His embarkation on a bright October day was one of the finest pag- eants ever witnessed in this country. Five of the most powerful men-of-war in the British navy, in gala trim, with yards manned, saluted the royal standard, gorgeous in crimson and gold, then for the first and only time displayed in this country. The deafening broadsides when the Prince reached the deck of the Hero were answered from the American forts and men-of-war. Another pageant, this time grand and solemn, was enacted in this harbor, in February, 1870. A British squadron, convoyed by American battle-ships, brought the remains of the philan- thropist, George Peabody, in the most power- ful ironclad the world had then seen. The funeral procession of boats from the English and American ships was an impressive spectacle. iA^i.-^.-v^ ^ ^^^X^-X^ J(^ JJ-C^^ 73 74 Portland It was a bright winter day, immediately suc- ceeding a remarkable ice-storm, and the trees of the islands, the cape, and the city sparkled in the sun as if every bough were encrusted with diamonds — a wonderful frame for a memo- rable picture. Nature had put on her choicest finery to relieve the sombre effect of the draped flags, the muffled oars, the long, slow lines of boats, and the minute guns from ships and forts. The great fire of July 4, i8t)6, which burned fifteen hundred buildings in the centre of the city, also destroyed an immense number of shade trees, mostly large elms, the abundance of which had given to Portland the title of " Forest City." In a few years the buildings were replaced by greatly improved structures ; but the trees could not be improvised so read- ily, and the scar of the fire is still noticeable from the absence of aged trees in the district swept by it. Advantage was taken of the clearing of the ground in the most thickly settled part of the city, to lay out Lincoln Park in the centre of the ruins. This is now a charming spot, with its fountain and flowers, its lawns and shaded walks. The city is fortunate in the abundance and Portland 75 purity of its water supply, which is drawn from Lake Sebago, sixteen miles distant. The natural outlet of this lake is the Presumpscot River, which has several valuable water-powers along its short course to its mouth in Casco Bay, near Portland harbor. It will be remembered that Nathaniel Haw- thorne received his colleeiate education, in the same class with Lono-fellow, at Brunswick, which is in the same county with Portland, but it is not so generally known that during his teens his home was at Raymond, on the shore of Sebago Lake, and in the same county. Part of each year he spent in school at Salem ; but his mother's home was in the little hamlet in the picturesque wilderness a few miles from Portland, and here he spent the happiest months of his youth, as he has testified in many letters. His biographers have gener- ally failed to take account of this, and, indeed, have asserted that he was at Raymond only a part of one year. A little volume recently published, entitled HawtJiojnies First Diary, brinofs out the facts in this nesflected but im- portant episode in the career of this great mas- ter in our literature. While fittings for collesfe, Hawthorne became, for a single term, the pupil 76 Portland of the Reverend Caleb Bradley, of Stroud- water, a suburb of Portland. The building in which he studied is still to be seen at Stroud- water. The house of his mother at Raymond is converted into a church, but as to ex- terior remains very much as when his boy life was spent in it. It was in this same county of Cumberland that Mrs. Stowe wrote the whole of Uncle Toms CabiJi, while her husband was a professor in Bowdoin College. Thus, three of the greatest names in American literature are linked to Portland and its immediate vicin- ity. Portland can count to her credit many jurists, lawyers, and orators of national re- pute, among them Theophilus Parsons, Simon Greenleaf, Ashur Ware, Sargent S. Prentiss, Nathan Clifford, and George Evans. William Pitt Fessenden lived and died in the house on State Street now occupied by Judge W. L. Putnam. Like Fessenden eminent as Senator and Secretary of the Treasury, Lot M. Mor- rill spent the last years of his life in Portland. Still another great Senator and Secretary of the Treasury, who was also Chief-Justice, hon- ored this city by bearing its name — Salmon Portland Chase. He was actually named for 77 78 Portland the town, his uncle, Salmon Chase, being a Portland lawyer, and his parents were deter- mined that there should be no mistake as to the person for whom he was named ! At an early period in his career, James G. Blaine edited the Portland Daily Advertiser. Among writers of celebrity, we may name N. P. Willis and his sister, " Fanny Fern" ; John Neal, poet and novelist ; Henry W. and Sam- uel Longfellow; J. H. I ngraham, whose many novels had a great sale fifty or sixty years ago ; Elijah Kellogg ; Mrs. Ann S, Stephens ; Seba Smith, author of the Jack Dowrmig Letters^ and his more famous wife, Elizabeth Oakes Smith; Thomas Hill, for a time President of Harvard University ; and the divines, Edward Payson and Cyrus Bartol. The home of Charles Farrar Brown, " Artemus Ward," was in an adjoining county, but like the Chief- Justice just mentioned, he came to Portland for his baptismal name, his uncle, Charles Far- rar, being a Portland physician. Two sculp- tors of national fame have gone out from Portland — Paul Akers and Franklin Simmons, and some of the best works of both these artists adorn public places in the city. The Dead Pearl Diver, by Akers, may be found in the reading- Portland 79 room of the Public Library ; and Simmons has two bronze statues in the city, one a seated figure of Longfellow, at the head of State Street, overlooking " Deering's Woods," and the other a noble statue of America, in Monu- ment Square, commemorating the sons of Portland who died for the Union ; no finer soldiers' monument than this has ever been erected. Of other artists who have attained distinction, we may name H. B. Brown, now residing in London, whose landscapes and marine views have given him a recognized position among the best American artists ; Charles O. Cole, portrait painter ; and Charles Codman, J. R. Tilton, and J. B. Hudson, landscape painters. Immense sums are being expended on the defences of the city by the United States government, as it is realized that in case of war with Great Britain this would be the point of attack, because Portland is the natural sea- port of the Canadas, and Maine is thrust, in a provoking way, between the Maritime Pro- vinces and the Province of Quebec. Portland can indulge in no dream of great commercial importance so long as the country which its position especially dominates is under a for- 8o Portland eign flag ; but if ever Maine should be annexed to Canada, or the annexation takes the alter- native form, a great future is assured for a town so favorably located. In the meantime, the beautiful city must be content to be the centre of distribution for the pleasure travel of the summer, and for the other half of the year, by means of its capacious harbor, it can con- tinue to furnish an outlet for that part of the business of the Great Lakes which in summer is handled at Montreal. OLD RUTLAND, MASSACHUSETTS THE CRADLE OF OHIO By EDWIN D. MEAD THE Old South Historical Society in Boston inaugurated in 1896 the custom of annual historical pilgrimages. It had learned from Parkman and Motley and Irving how vital and vivid history is made by visits to the scenes of history. Its pilgrimages must be short to places near home ; but the good places to visit in New England are many. Great numbers of people, young and old, join in the pilgrimages. Six hundred went to the beautiful Whittier places beside the Mer- rimac, the second year ; and as many the third year to the King Philip country, on Narragan- sett Bay. The first year's pilgrimage was to old Rut- land, Massachusetts, "the cradle of Ohio." A hundred of the young people went on the train 81 82 Old Rutland from Boston, on that bright July day ; and when they had climbed to the little village on the hill, and swept their eyes over the great expanse of country round about Wachusett and away to Monadnock, and strolled down to the old Rufus Putnam house, by whose fireside the settlement of Marietta was planned, a hundred more people had come from the sur- rounding villages ; and a memorable little cele- bration was that under the maples after the luncheon, with the dozen energetic speeches from the young men and the older ones. It was a fine inauguration of the Old South pil- grimages, and woke many people to the great possibilities of the historical pilgrimage as an educational factor.^ Ten years before, there was hardly a man in Massachusetts who ever thought of Rutland as a historical town. The people of Princeton and Paxton and Hubbardston and Oakham, looked across to the little village on the hill from their villages on the hills, and they did not think of it ; the people of Worcester drove up of a Sunday to get a dinner at the old vil- lage tavern, and they did not think of it ; the Amherst College boys and the Smith College ' See Editor's Preface p. v. 84 Old Rutland girls rode past on the Central Massachusetts road, at the foot of the hill, on their way to Boston, and heard " Rutland !" called, but they thought nothing of history ; and in Boston the last place to which people would have thought of arranging a historical pilgrimage was this same Rutland, Yet when the Old South young people went there on their first pilgrimage, Rutland had already become a name almost as familiar in our homes as Salem or Sudbury or Deerfield. The Old South young people themselves had been led to think very much about it. In 1893, the )'ear of the World's Fair at Chicago, the great capital of the great West, a place undreamed of a hundred years before, when Rutland was witnessing its one world-histor- ical event, the Old South lectures were de- voted to " The Opening of the West." Two of the eight lectures were upon " The North- west Territory and the Ordinance of 1787" and " Marietta and the Western Reserve " ; two of the leaflets issued in connection were Manasseh Cutler's Description of Ohio in lySy and Garfield's address on The North- west Territory and the Western Reserve ; and one of the subjects set for the Old South es- 86 Old Rutland says was " The Part Taken by Massachusetts Men in Connection with the Ordinance of 1 787." These studies first kindled the imagina- tions of hundreds of young people and first roused them to the consciousness that westward expansion had been the great fact in our his- tory from the time of the Revolution to the time of the Civil War ; that New England had had a controlling part in this great move- ment, which, by successive waves, has reached Ohio, Illinois, Kansas, Colorado, Oregon, so that there is more good New England blood to- day west of the Hudson than there is east of it ; and that this movement, which has transformed the United States from the little strip along the Atlantic coast which fought for independence to the great nation which stretches now from sea to sea, began at the old town of Rutland, Massachusetts. This Rutland on the hill is the cradle of Ohio, the cradle of the West. It was not, by any means, these Boston lect- ures on "The Opening of the West " which re- awakened Massachusetts and the country to the forgotten historical significance of old Rutland. That awakening was done by Senator Hoar, in his great oration at the Marietta centennial, in 1888. Senator Hoar's oration did not in- Old Rutland 2>7 deed awaken Massachusetts to the great part taken by Massachusetts men in connection with the Ordinance of 1787, or the part of New England in the settlement and shaping of the West. No awakening to these things was necessary. There is no New England household which has not kindred households in the West, ever in close communication with the old home ; and the momentous significance of the Ordinance of 1787, and the decisive part taken by Massachusetts statesmen in se- curing it, the Massachusetts historian and ora- tor were never likely to let the people forget, " At the foundation of the constitution of these new Northwestern States," said Daniel Webster in his great reply to Hayne, " lies the celebrated Ordinance of 1787. We are accustomed to praise the lawgivers of antiquity ; we help to perpetuate the fame of Solon and Lycurgus ; but I doubt whether one single law of any lawgiver, ancient or modern, has produced effects of more distinct, marked and lasting character than the Ordinance of 1787. That instrument was drawn by Nathan Dane, a citizen of Massachusetts ; and certainly it has happened to few men to be the authors of a political measure of more large and enduring consequence. It fixed forever the character of the population in the vast regions northwest of the Ohio, by excluding from them involuntary servitude. It impressed on the soil itself, while it was yet a wilderness, an incapacity to sustain 88 Old Rutland any other than free men. It laid the interdict against personal servitude, in original compact, not only deeper than all local law, but deeijer also than all local constitu- tions. We see its consequences at this moment, and we shall never cease to see them, perhaps, while the Ohio shall flow." Mr. Hoar spoke as strongly of the Ordinance, in his Marietta oration. " The Ordinance of 1787 belongs with the Declaration of Inde- pendence and the Constitution ; it is one of the three title-deeds of American constitu- tional liberty." But the chief merit of his oration was not the new emphasis with which he said what Webster had said, but the pict- uresqueness and the power with which he brought the men and the events of that great period of the opening of the West home to the imagination. The oration was especially memorable for the manner in which it set Rufus Putnam, the man of action, the head of the Ohio Company, the leader of the Mari- etta colony, in the centre of the story, and made us see old Rutland as the cradle of the movement. Complete religious liberty, the public sup- port of schools, and the prohibition forever of slavery, — these were what the Ordinance Old Rutland 89 of 1787 secured for the Northwest. "When older States or nations," said Mr. Hoar, " where the chains of human bondage have been broken, shall utter the proud boast, ' With a great sum obtained I this freedom,' each sister of this im- perial group — Ohio, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin — may lift her queenly head with the yet prouder answer, ' But I was free-born.' " The moment of this antislavery article of the Ordinance, in view of the course of our national history during the century that has followed, it would not be possible to overstate. When the great test of civil war came, to settle of what sort this republic should be, who dare con- template the result had these five States been slave States and not free ! Massachusetts makes no false or exclusive claims of credit for the Ordinance of 1787. She does not forget the services of William Grayson, nor those of Richard Henry Lee. She does not forget Thomas Jefferson.^ 'The Ordinance of 1784, the original of the Ordinance of 1787, was drawn up by Jefferson himself, as chairman of the committee appointed by Congress to prepare a plan for the government of the territory. The draft of the committee's report, in Jefferson's own handwriting, is still preserved in the archives of the State De- partment at Washington. "It is a^ completely Jefferson's own work," says Bancroft, "as the Declaration of Independence." Jef- ferson worked with the greatest earnestness to secure the insertion of 90 Old Rutland The names of Nathan Dane, Rufus Putnam, Rufus King, Timothy Pickering and Manas- seh Cutler are names of the g^reatest moment in the history of the West. No other group of men did so much as these Massachusetts men to determine what the great West should be, by securing the right organization and in- stitutions for the Northwest Territory and by securing at the beginning the right kind of settlers for Ohio. It was really Manasseh Cutler who did most at the final decisive moment to secure the adop- a clause in the Ordinance of 1 784 prohibiting slavery in the North- west ; and the clause was lost by only a single vote. " The voice of a single individual," said Jefferson, who foresaw more clearly than any other what the conflict with slavery was to mean to the republic, "would have prevented this abominable crime. Heaven will not always be silent. The friends of the rights of human nature will in the end prevail." They prevailed for the Northwest Territory with the achievement of Manasseh Cutler, Rufus Putnam and Nathan Dane. Was it from Jefferson that Putnam and his men at Marietta caught their classical jargon ? There was a great deal of pretentious classi- cism in America at that time, new towns everywhere being freighted with high-sounding Greek and Roman names. The founders of Marietta — so named in honor of Marie Antoinette — named one of their squares Capilolitim ; the road which led up from the river was the Sacra Via ; and the new garrison, with blockhouses at the corners, was the Campus Martins. Jefferson had proposed dividing the Northwest into ten States, instead of five as was finally done, and for these States he proposed the names of Sylvania, Michigania, Asseni- sipia, Illinoia, Polypotamia, Cherronesus, Metropotamia, Saratoga, Pelisipia and Washington. MANASSEH CUTLER. 91 92 Old Rutland /^^^ tion of the clause in the great Ordinance which forever dedicated the Northwest to freedom. Of all these Massachusetts men he was by far the most interesting personality ; and of all revelations of the inner character of that criti- cal period, none is more in- teresting or valuable than that given by his Life and Letters. It is to be remem- bered too that the first com- pany of men for Marietta — Cutler urged Adelphia as the right name for the town — started from ]Manasseh Cutler's own home in Ips- wich, joining others at Dan- NATHAN DANE. vers, December ■87, almost a month before the Rutland farmers left to join Putnam at Hartford. For the shrine of Manasseh Cutler is not at Rutland, but at Hamilton, which was a part of Ipswich. The home of Nathan Dane was Beverly. " It happened," said Edward Everett Hale, at the Ma- rietta centennial, " that it was Manasseh Cutler who was to be the one who should call upon that Continental Con- gress to do the duty which they had pushed aside for five or six years. It happened that this diplomatist sue- I Old Rutland 93 ceeded in doing in four days what had not been done in four years before. What was the weight which Manas- seh Cutler threw ii.to the scale? It was not wealth ; it was not the armor of the old time ; it was simply the fact, known to all men, that the men of New Eng- land would not emigrate into any region where labor and its honest recompense is dishonorable. The New Eng- land men will not go where it is not honorable to do an honest day's work, and for that honest day's work to claim an honest recompense. They never have done it, and they never will do it ; and it was that potent fact, known to all men, that Manasseh Cutler had to urge in his private conversation and in his diplomatic work. When he said, ' I am going away from New York, and my con- stituents are not going to do this thing,' he meant ex- actly what he said. They were not going to any place where labor was dishonorable, and where workmen were not recognized as freemen. If they had not taken his promises, they would not have come here ; they would have gone to the Holland Company's lands in New York, or where Massachusetts was begging them to go — into the valley of the Penobscot or the Kennebec." Senator Hoar, in his oration, said of Manas- seh Cutler : " He was probably the fittest man on the continent, except Franklin, for a mission of delicate diplomacy. It was said just now that Putnam was a man after Wash- ington's pattern and after Washington's own heart. Cutler was a man after Franklin's pattern and after Franklin's own heart. He was the most learned natural- ist in America, as Franklin was the greatest master in 94 Old Rutland physical science. He was a man of consummate pru- dence in speech and conduct ; of courtly manners ; a favorite in the drawing-room and in the camp ; with a wide circle of friends and correspondents among the most famous men of his time. During his brief service in Congress, he made a speech on the judicial system, in 1803, which shows his profound mastery of constitu- tional principles. It now fell to his lot to conduct a negotiation second only in importance to that which Franklin conducted with France in 1778. Never was ambassador crowned with success more rapid or more complete." But here, in old Rutland, it is not with Ma- nasseh Cutler that we are concerned, but with Rufus Putnam. Rufus Putnam was the head of the Ohio Company, and the leader in the actual settlement of the new Territory. It was with Putnam that Manasseh Cutler chiefly conferred concerning the proposed Ohio colony. He left Boston for New York, on his important mission, on the evening of June 25, 1787, and on that day he records in his diary : " I conversed with General Putnam, and set- tled the principles on which I am to contract with Congress for lands on account of the Ohio Company." Of Rufus Putnam, Senator Hoar said in his oration, after his tributes to Var- num, Meigs, Parsons, Tupper and the rest : Qlncyu^ ^l44rL^lt^A^ a^-Kii.^^ ^i^f/'^^^i.jmyf -i-ii 178 Boston with the most promising of these — the daugh- ter of a clergyman in northern Vermont — I saw Dr. O. W. Holmes pass through the shop, and pointed him out to her. She gazed eagerly after him until he was out of sight, and then said, drawing a long breath, " I must write to my father and sister about this ! Up in Peacham we think a great deal of authors ! " Certainly a procession of foreign princes or American millionaires would have impressed her and her correspondents far less. It was like the feeling that Americans are apt to have when they first visit London or Paris and see — in Willis's phrase — "whole shelves of their library walking about in coats and gowns " ; and, strange as it may seem, every winter brings to Boston a multitude of young people whose expressed sensations are very much like those felt by Americans when they first cross the ocean. The very irregularity of the city adds to its attraction, since most of our newer cities are apt to look too resfular and too monotonous. For- eign dialects have greatly increased within a few years ; for although the German element has never been large, the Italian population is con- stantly increasing, and makes itself very appar- i8o Boston ent to the ear, as does also latterly the Russian. Books and newspapers in this last tongue are always in demand. Statues of eminent Bos- tonians — Winthrop, Franklin, Samuel Adams, Webster, Garrison, Everett, Horace Mann, and others — are distributed about the city, and though not always beautiful as examples of art, are suQ^eestive of dignified memories. Institu- tions of importance are on all sides, and though these are not different in kind from those now numerous in all vigorous American cities, yet in Boston they often claim a longer date or more historic associations. The great Public Li- brary still leads American institutions of its class ; and the Art Museum had a similar leadership until the rapid expansion of the Metropolitan Museum of New York City. The Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the New England Conservatory of Music educate large numbers of pupils from all parts of the Union ; while Boston University and Boston College hold an honored place among their respective constituencies. Harvard Uni- versity, Tufts College, and Wellesley College are not far distant. The Boston Athenaeum is an admirable model of a society library. The public-school system of Boston has in Boston i8i times past had a great reputation, and still re- tains it ; though it is claimed that the newer systems of the Western States are in some de- gree surpassing it. The Normal Art School of the State is in Boston ; and the city has its own Normal School for common-school teach- ers. The free lectures of the Lowell Institute are a source of instruction to large numbers every season ; and there are schools and classes in various directions, maintained from the same foundation. The great collections of the Boston Society of Natural History are open to the public ; and the Bostonian Society has been unwearied in its efforts to preserve and exhibit all memorials of local history. The Massachusetts Historical Society includes among its possessions the remarkable private library of Thomas Dowse, which was regarded as one of the wonders of Cambridge fifty years ago, and it possesses also the invaluable manu- script collections brought together by Francis Parkman when preparing his great series of histories. The New England Historic-Gen- ealogical Society has a vast and varied store of materials in the way of local and genealogi- cal annals ; and the Loyal Legion has a library and museum of war memorials. 182 Boston For man)' years there has been in Boston a strong interest in physical education — an in- terest which has passed through various phases, but is now manifested in such strong institutions as the Athletic Club and the Country Club — the latter for rural recreation. There is at Char 1 e sbank, beside the Charles River, a public open-air g y m n a s i u m which attracts a large constitu- ency ; and there is, what is espe- ciall)- desirable, a class for wo- men and child- ren, with pri- vate grounds and buildings. It is under most efficient supervision, and is accomplishing great good. There are some ten playgrounds kept open at unused schoolhouses during the CHARLES SUMNER. Boston 183 summer vacations, these being fitted up with swings, sand-pens, and sometimes flower-beds, and properly superintended. A great system of parks has now been planned, and partly es- tablished, around Boston, the largest of these being Franklin Park, near Egleston Square ; while the system includes also the Arnold Arboretum, the grounds around Chestnut Hill Reservoir and Jamaica Pond, with a Marine Park at South Boston. Most of these are easily accessible by steam or electric cars, which are now reached from the heart of the city, in many cases through subways, and will soon be supplemented or superseded, on the more important routes, by elevated roads. The steam railways of the city are also to have their stations combined into a Northern and a Southern Union Station, of which the former is already in use and the latter in pro- cess of construction. This paper is not designed to be a catalogue of the public institutions and philanthropies of Boston, but aims merely to suggest a few of the characteristic forms which such activities have taken. Nor is it written with the desire to praise Boston above her sisters among Ameri- can cities ; for it is a characteristic of American 1 84 Boston society that, in spite of the outward uniformity- attributed to the nation, each city has never- theless its own characteristics ; and each may often learn from the others. This is simply one of a series of pa- pers, each with a specific sub- ject and each confined to its own theme. The inns, the theatres, the club-houses of a city, strangers are likely to dis- cover for them- selves ; but there are further objects of in- terest not always so accessible. For want of a friendly guide, they may miss what would most interest them. It is now nearly two hundred years since an English traveller named Edward Ward thus described the Bos- ton of 1699 : Copyright by H. G. Smith, Boston, 1893. PHILLIPS BROOKS. Boston 185 " On the southwest side of Massachusetts Bay is Bos- ton, whose name is taken from a town in Lincolnshire, and is the metropolis of all New England. The houses in some parts joyn, as in London. The buildings, like their women, being neat and handsome. And their streets, like the hearts of the male inhabitants, being paved with pebble." The leadership of Boston in a thousand works of charity and kindness, during these two centuries, has completely refuted the hasty censure of this roving Englishman ; and it is to be hoped that the Boston of the future, like the Boston of the past, will do its fair share in the development of that ampler American civil- ization of which all present achievements suggest only the promise and the dawn. REVOLUTIONARY BOSTON '' Then and there American Independence was born." By EDWARD EVERETT HALE THE American Revolution began in Boston. Different dates are set for the begin- ning. John Adams says of Otis's speech in 1 76 1 in the Council Chamber of the Old State House, " Then and there American Independence was born." The visitor to Bos- ton should go, very early in his visit, into the Old State House ; and when he stands in the Council Chamber he will remember that as dis- tinguished a person as John Adams fixed that place as the birthplace of independence. But one does not understand the history of the opening of the great struggle without going back a whole generation. It was in 1 745 that Governor William Shirley addressed the Massachusetts General Court in a secret session. He brought before them a plan 1 88 Revolutionary Boston which he had for the conquest of Louisburg in the next spring, before it could be re- inforced from France. The General Court (which means the general assembly of Massa- chusetts) at first doubted the possibility of suc- cess of so bold an attempt ; but eventually Shirley persuaded them to undertake it. The Province of New Hampshire and that of Con- necticut co-operated, and their army of pro- vincials, with some assistance from Warren of the English navy, took Louisbourg, which capitulated on the 17th of June, 1745. Ob- serve that the 17th of June is St. Botolph's day ; and that he is the godfather of Bos- ton. When Louis XV. was told that this hand- ful of provincials had taken the Gibraltar of America, he was very angry. In the next spring, the spring of i 746, with a promptness and secrecy which make us respect the admin- istration of the French navy, a squadron of more than forty ships of war, and transports sufficient to bring an army of three thousand men, was fitted out in France and despatched to America, with the definite and acknow- ledged purpose of wiping Boston from the face of the earth : 190 Revolutionary Boston " For this Admiral D'Anville Had sworn by cross and crown To ravage with fire and steel Our helpless Boston town." GOVERNOR THOMAS HUTCHINSON. AFTER A PORTRAIT IN POSSESSION OF THE MASSACHUSETTS HISTORICAL SOCIETY, ONCE THE PROPERTY OF JONATHAN MAYHEW. It was a disgrace to the military and naval organizations of England at the same time, that they had so little information there on the subject. Revolutionary Boston 191 They found out at last that this immense French fleet had sailed or was sailing. I think that it was the strongest expedition ever sent from Europe to America between Columbus's time and our own. Some blundering attempts to meet it were made by the English Admir- alty. But their admiral had to make the lame excuse that seven times he tried to go to sea and seven times he was driven back by gales. Whatever the gales were, they did not stop D'Anville and his Armada, and poor Boston, which was to be destroyed, our dear little "town of hen-coops," clustering around the mill-pond, knew as little of the fate pre- pared for it as the British Admiralty. It was not until the month of September, i 746, that a fishing-boat from the Banks, crowding all sail, came into Boston and reported to Governor Shirley that her men had seen the largest fleet of the largest vessels which they had ever seen in their lives, and that these were French ves- sels. Shirley at once called his Council to- gether and " summoned the train bands of the Province." The Council sank ships laden with stones in the channels of the harbor. Hasty fortifications were built upon the islands, and Shirley mounted upon them such guns as he 192 Revolutionary Boston could bring together. The "train bands" of the Province promptly obeyed the call, and for the next two months near seven thousand sol- diers were encamped on Boston Common, ready for any movement which the descent of D'An- ville might require. Cautious, wise, and strong beyond any of his successors in his office, Shir- ley put his hand upon the throttle of the newspapers. D'Anville should not learn, nor should anybody learn, that he had an army in Boston or that he knew his danger. And so you may read the modest files of the Boston papers of that day and you shall find no refer- ence to these military movements of which every man and woman and child in Boston was thinking. It is not till his young wife dies that, by some accident in an editorial room, the confession slips into print that the train bands of the Province accompanied her body to its grave. It was the only military duty which was required of that army of six thousand four hundred. The people of the times would have told you, every man and woman of them, that the Lord of Hosts had other methods for defending Boston. What happened, or, if you please, what tran- THE OLD SOUTH CHURCH IN ITS PRESENT CONDITION. ^93 BUiLT IN 1729. 194 Revolutionary Boston spired, was this : Among his other prepara- tions for his enemy, Shirley proclaimed a solemn Fast Day, in which the people should meet in all their meeting-houses and seek the help of the Almighty, and they did so. Thomas Prince, of the Old South Meeting- house, tells us what happened there. In the morning, a crowded congregation joined in prayer, and Prince told them of their danger and exhorted them to their duty. In the after- noon the assembly met again. As Prince led them in their prayer, what seemed a hurricane from the southwest struck the meeting-house. A generation after, men remembered how the steeple above them shook in the gale, and Prince went on, calmly, in his address to the God who rides on the whirlwind : " We do not presume to advise, O Lord, but if Thy Providence requires that this tem- pest shall sweep the invaders from the sea, we shall be content." And this was precisely what happened : This southwest gale tore down the Bay. This side Cape Sable, just off Grand Manan, it found D'Anville's squadron in its magnificent array. It drove ship against ship. It cap- sized and sank some of the noblest vessels. Revolutionary Boston 195 It tore the masts out of others. It discour- aged their crews and their officers. All that was left of this gallant squadron (which was to burn our " hen-coops " here) took refuge in Halifax Bay or crept back under jury-masts to France. In the harbor of Chebucto, as they called Halifax, the wrecks of the fleet were repaired as best they might be. D'Anville and his first officer both died, one as a suicide, and the other from the disgrace of the discom- fiture. It is said in Nova Scotia that you may see some of the ships now, if you will look down at the right place in the clear sea, off Cape Sable. A miserable handful of the vessels straggled back to France at the open- ingr of the winter. The colonists of New England had thus learned two lessons, one in 1745, and one in 1746. In 1745 they had learned that without any assistance from their own king they could storm and take the strongest fortress in America. In 1746 they learned that the an- ger of the strongest prince in Europe was powerless against them. Those who believed in the immediate providence of God thought that He stretched out His arm in their defense. Those who did not, thought that in the general 196 Revolutionary Boston providence of God, a people who were three thousand miles away from the greatest sov- ereign of the world might safely defy his wrath. Curiously enough, in the next year, 1747, the people of Boston had an opportunity to learn a third lesson by measuring strength with their own sovereign. In that year Admiral Knowles, in command of the English squadron, — rather a favorite till then, I fancy, with the people here, — hap- pened to want seamen. He availed himself of that bit of unwritten law which held in Eng- land till within my own memory, by impress- ing seamen from the docks. A memorial of the General Court says that the English gov- ernment had carried this matter so far that, as they believed, three thousand Americans were at that tim.e in the service of the British navy, having been unwillingly impressed there. But Knowles carried it farther yet. He took on board his fleet some hundreds of ship- carpenters, mechanics, and laboring men ; and Boston broke out into a blaze of excitement and fury. There followed the first of the series of proceedings which, with various modi- fications, lasted for thirty years, until General Howe withdrew the British fleet and army from OLD STATE HOUSE. 198 Revolutionary Boston Boston. It was a combination of riots and town-meetings, the town-meetings expressing seriously what the rioters did not express so well, the rioters giving a certain emphasis, such as was understood in England, as to the intention of the town-meetings of Boston. We have the most amusing details of this affair in a very valuable and interesting his- tory just published by Mr. John Noble. The rioters seized Knowles's officers whom they found in the town, and shut them up for host- ages. Knowles declared that he would bom- bard the town. But what with the General Court and the town-meetings and the magis- trates and the rest, he was soothed down, the people gave up their hostages, and he gave up the men whom he had seized. Boston had measured forces in this affair with King George. Both were satisfied with the result ; and, if I may so speak, this first tussle ended in a tie. Here were three trials of strength in three years. And the Boston people learned in each of them the elements of their real power. When, nearly twenty years after, Otis made his eloquent protest against the Writs of Assistance, he did not succeed. The Court 199 200 Revolutionary Boston decided that the Province must permit the officers to make the searches in private houses which the Crown asked. But there was a point gained, in the confession that the Crown must ask, and thinking men took note of that confession. " Sam " Adams, as he was always affection- ately called, had graduated at Harvard College in I 740. There is no direct evidence known to me, but without it I believe that almost from that time Sam Adams was the inspiring genius of one or more private clubs in which the young men of Boston were trained in the funda- mental principles of independence. On the other side it may be said that from the mo- ment when Quebec fell the home government of England did everything that can be con- ceived of to disgust and alienate the people of Boston. The disgust showed itself now in grumbling, now in physical violence. In the midst of it all there was one quiet leader be- hind the scenes. Sam Adams had the confi- dence of the gentry and of the people both. When he wanted a grave and dignified expres- sion of opinion he had a town-meeting called, and then this town-meeting heard speeches and passed resolutions of such dignity and ^^^''^^^^a'^^:,*;^ c^^t ^U^17^^ 202 Revolutionary Boston gravity as were worthy of any senate in the world. On the other hand, if Sam Adams needed to give emphasis to such resolution, the mob of Boston appeared in her streets, did what he wanted it to do, and stopped when he wanted it to stop. It is fair to say that George III.'s ministers lost their heads in their rage against the riots of Boston. The Boston Port Bill, the maddest and most useless act of vengeance, was aimed at the Boston mob ; and yet in the thirty years be- tween Louisbourg and Lexington this riotous mob of Boston never drew a drop of human blood in all its excesses. And this, though once and again the soldiers and sailors of England killed one and another of the peo- ple. Now to follow along step by step the visible memorials of the war, I advise you to go to Roxbury through Washington Street by one of the Belt-line cars. The very name, Washing- ton Street, should remind you that Washington rode in in triumph by this highway on the i 7th of March, 1776, the day when General Howe and the English troops evacuated the town. Let the car drop you at the Providence railway crossing in Roxbury and take another car to 204 Revolutionary Boston Brookline ; or go on foot. All this time you have been on the track of the English general, Lord Percy, who was sent out with his column to reinforce Colonel Smith, who had charge of the earlier column sent against Concord, on the day of the battle of Lexington. You can, if you choose, on your wheel or on your feet, go into Cambridge with this column ; but take care not to cross Charles River by the first bridge, but by that where the students' boat- houses are, on the road which becomes Boyls- ton Street as you enter Cambridge. You may then go on to Lexington and Concord. On another day, start from Cambridge at the Law School. This stands on the very site of the old parsonage — General Ward's head- quarters. The evening before the battle of Bunker Hill, Prescott's division was formed in parade here and joined in prayer with the minister of Cambridge before they marched to Bunker Hill. Anybody will show you Kirk- land Street, which is the name now given to the beofinnine of " Milk Row," the road over which they crossed to Charlestown. If you are afraid to walk, take your wheel. Two miles, more or less, will bring you eastward to Charlestown Neck. Then turn to your right 2o6 Revolutionary Boston and walk to Bunker Hill iMonument, which you can hardly fail to see. It is quite worth while to ascend the monu- ment. It gives you an excellent chance to obey Dr. Arnold's rule and study the topo- graphy on the spot. You cannot fail to see the United States Navy Yard just at your feet. Here Howe's forces gathered for the attack on Prescott's works on the day of the battle. And to the shore they retired after they were flung back in the first two unsuccessful attacks. In the mad attack on Prescott's works, Gen- eral Gage lost, in killed and wounded, one quar- ter of his little army. What was left became the half-starved garrison of Boston. I say " mad at- tack," because Gage had only to order a gun- boat to close the retreat of the American force, and he could have starved it into surrender. But such delay was unworthy of the dignity of English generals, or, as they then called them- selves, " British " generals. It is to be remem- bered that this use of the word " British," now much laughed at, was the fashionable habit of those times. The date of the battle was June 17, 1775. Oddly enough, this had long been the saint's day of St. Botolph, the East Anglian saint Revolutionary Boston 207 for whom Boston in England was named. It seems probable, however, that this odd coinci- dence was never noticed for a hundred years. Since the majority of the people of Boston and Charlestown have been Catholics, it has attracted attention. From that date to March 17, 1776, the date just now alluded to, Boston and the English army were blockaded by the American troops. They had gathered on the day after Lexing- ton, commanded at first by Artemas Ward, the commander of the militia of Massachusetts, and afterwards by Washington, with Ward as his first major-general. The English retained their hold on Charlestown, but once and again the Americans attacked their forces there. They never marched out beyond Boston Neck or Charlestown Neck. On the south, their most advanced works were where are now two little parks. Black- stone Square and Franklin Square, on the west and east sides of Washington Street, re- spectively. They had a square redoubt on the Common, where is now a monument to the heroes of the Civil War. A little eastward of this was a hill called Fox Hill, which was dug away to make the Charles Street of to-day. 2o8 Revolutionary Boston Farther west, where the ground is now cov- ered with buildings, were two or three re- doubts, generally called forts, by which they meant to prevent the landing of the Americans. At that time Beacon Hill was much higher than it is now. Exactly on the point now marked by a monument, a monument was erected after the Revolution, in commemora- tion of the events of the year when it began. The present monument — completed lately — is an exact imitation of the first, but that this is of stone, and that was of brick. This has the old inscriptions. Washington drove out the English by erect- ing the stronor works on what was then called Dorchester Heights, which we now call South Boston. The places where most of these works existed are marked by inscriptions. In- dependence Square is on the site of one of them. The careful traveller may go out to Rox- bury, follow up Highland Street and turn to the right, and he will find an interesting me- morial of one of the strong works built by General Ward. From this point, north and east, each of the towns preserves some relic of the same kind. In Cambridge one is marked THE FROG POND ON THE COMMON AS IT NOW APPEARS. 209 2IO Revolutionary Boston by a public square, on which the national flag^ is generally floating. At the North End of Boston, where is now, and was then, the graveyard of Copp's Hill, the English threw up some batteries. These are now obliterated, but the point is interest- ing in Revolutionary history, because it was from this height that Gage and Burgoyne saw their men flung back by the withering fire of Bunker Hill. CAMBRIDGE By SAMUEL A. ELIOT " There is no place like it, no, not even for taxes." Lo-cveW s Letters, ii., I02. THE early history of New England seems to many minds dry and unromantic. No mist of distance softens the harsh outlines, no mirage of tradition lifts events or characters into picturesque beauty, and there seems a poverty of sentiment. The transplanting of a people breaks the successions and associations of history. No memories of Crusader and Conqueror stir the imagination. Instead of the glitter of chivalry we have but the sombre homespun of Puritan peasants. Instead of the castles and cathedrals on which time has laid a hand of benediction we have but the rude log meeting-house and schoolhouse. In- stead of Christmas merriment the voice of our past brings to us only the noise of axe and 212 Cambridge hammer, or the dreary droning of Psalms. It seems bleak, and destitute of poetic inspiration ; at once plebeian and prosaic. But I cannot help feeling that if we look be- neath the uncouth exterior we shall find in New England history much idealism, much that can inspire noble daring and feed the springs of romance. Out of the hard soil of the Puritan thought, out of the sterile rocks of the New England conscience, spring flowers of poetry. This story of the planting of Cam- bridge has — if I might linger on it — a wealth of dramatic interest, not indeed in its antiquity, — it is but a story of yesterday, — but in the hu- man associations that belong to it and the patriotic memories it stirs. The Cambridge dust is eloquent of the long procession of saints and sages, scholars and poets, whose works and words have made the renown of the place. First the Puritan chiefs of Massa- chusetts ; then the early scholars of the budding commonwealth ; then the Tory gentry who made the town in the days before the Revolu- tion the centre of a lavish hospitality, and who maintained a happy social life of which the memories still linger in the beautiful homes which they left behind them ; then the patriot s""aj»* 214 Cambridge army suroring about Boston in the exciting year of the siege, with the inspiring traditions of what Washington and Warren and Knox and Greene and the rest did and said ; and finally the later associations of our great scholars and men of letters, chief of whom we rank Lowell and Holmes and Longfellow, whose lives were rooted deep in the Cambridge soil and whose dust there endears the sod. The first figures on our Cambridge stage are those of the leaders of the Massachusetts colony. While Boston was clearly marked for prominence in the colony because of its geographical position, there was not at first the intention to make it the seat of govern- ment. It was too open to attack from the sea ; a position farther inland could be more easily defended, not indeed from the Indians, but from the enemy most to be dreaded, — the war- ships of an irate and hostile motherland. Ac- cordingly Governor John Winthrop and his assistants, shortly after the planting of Boston, journeyed in the shallop of the ship in which they had come from England, four miles up the Charles River behind Boston until they came to a meadow gently sloping to the river- side, backed by rounded hills and protected Cambridge 215 by wide-spreading salt marshes. There on the 28th of December, 1630, they landed and fixed HOME OF LONGFELLOW. the seat of their government. To quote the old chronicle : " They rather made choice to enter further among the Indians than to hazard the fury of malignant advers- aries who might {)ursue them, and therefore chose a place situated upon Charles River, between Charles- town and Watertown, where they erected a towne called Newtowne, and where they gathered the 8th Church of Christ." 2i6 Cambridge It was agreed that the Governor, John Win- throp, the Deputy Governor, Thomas Dudley, and all the councillors, except John Endicott, who had already settled at Salem, should build and occupy houses at Newtowne, but this agreement was never carried out. Winthrop, Dudley and Bradstreet built houses, and the General Court of the colony met alternately at Newtowne and at Boston until 1638, when it finally settled in Boston. Yet in spite of the superior advantages of Boston the new settlement evidently flourished, for in 1633 a traveller — the writer of New E7iglaiid' s Pros- pect — describes the village as " one of the neatest and best compacted towns in New England, having many fair structures, with many handsome contrived streets. The in- habitants, most of them, are rich and well stored with cattle of all sorts." This is doubtless an extravagant picture and true only in comparison with some of the neighboring plantations which were not so fa- vorably situated. Newtowne was really a crude and straggling settlement made up of some sixty or seventy log cabins or poor frame houses stretching along a road which skirted the river marshes and of which the wanderings Cambridge 217 were prescribed more by the devious channel of the Charles than by mathematical exactness. The meeting-house, built of rough-hewn boards with the crevices sealed with mud, stood at the crossing of the road with the path that led down to the river, where there was a ladder for the convenience of landing. So primitive was the place that Thomas Dudley, the chief man of the town, writing home, could say, " I have no table nor any place to write in than by the fireside on my knee." Such was the splendor of the whilom capital of New Eng- land. Like most of the Massachusetts towns, Cam- bridge began as a church. Though Dudley and Bradstreet and Haynes were high in the councils of the infant commonwealth, hold- ing successively or simultaneously the offices of governor and military chief, yet the lead- ing personality of the village was the minister. The roll of Cambridge ministers begins with the great name of Thomas Hooker, the founder of Connecticut, and the man who first visioned and did much to make possible our American democracy. Hooker, with his congregation from Braintree, in Essex, England, came to Massachusetts in 1632, and after a short stay 2i8 Cambridge at Mount Wollaston, settled at Newtowne, raising the population to nearly five hundred souls. But the stay of the Braintree church was short. Some adventurous spirits had penetrated the wilderness of the interior until they discovered the charm and fertility of the valley of the Connecticut, and soon Hooker and his company were impelled by " the strong bent of their spirits " to remove thither. They alleged, in petitioning the General Court for permission to remove, that their cattle were cramped for room in Newtowne, and that it behooved the English colonists to keep the Dutch out of Connecticut ; but the real motive of the exodus was doubtless ecclesiastical. Hooker did not find himself altogether in ac- cord with the Boston teacher, John Cotton. "Two such eminent stars," says Hubbard, writing in 1682, "both of the first magnitude, though of different influence, could not well continue in one and the same orb." Hooker took the more liberal side in the antinomian controversy which had already begun to make trouble, and his subsequent conduct of affairs in Connecticut shows that he did not approve the Massachusetts policy of restricting the suf- frage to church members. In the spring of Cambridge 219 1636, therefore, Hooker and most of his con- gregation sold their possessions, and driving one hundred and sixty cattle before them, went on their way to the planting of Hartford and the founding of a new commonwealth. This was the first of many separations by which Cambridge has become the mother of many sturdy children. The original bound- aries of the town stretched from Dedham on the south all the way to the Merrimac River on the north. Gradually, by the gathering of new churches and peaceable partition, this ter- ritory has been divided, and out of the original Newtowne have been formed, besides the present Cambridge, Billerica, Bedford, Lexing- ton, Arlington, Brighton and Newton. Gov- ernors Dudley and Bradstreet removed to Ipswich, and Simon Willard went to be the chief layman of Concord and a famous builder and defender of towns. The rude houses of Hooker's congregation were bought by a newly arrived company, the flock of the Rev. Thomas Shepard. This firm but gentle leader, who left a deep impress on the habit of the town, was a youth of thirty-one, and a graduate, like many of the Massachusetts leaders, of Emanuel College, at 220 Cambridge Cambridge. He came to New England with a company of earnest followers, actuated, as he wrote, by desire for "the fruition of God's or- dinances. Though my motives were mixed, and I looked much to my own quiet, yet the Lord let me see the glory of liberty in New England, and made me purpose to live among God's people as one come from the dead to His praise." His brave young wife died " in unspeakable joy" only a fortnight after his settlement at Cambridge, and was soon fol- lowed by the chief man of his flock and his closest friend, Roger Harlakenden, another godly youth of the manly type of English pio- neers. At once, too, Shepard was plunged into the stormy debates of the antinomian contro- versy which nearly caused a permanent divi- sion in the Congregational churches. The general election of 1637, which was held on the Common at Newtowne, was a tumultuous gathering, and discussion over the merits of "grace" and "works" ran high till John Wil- son, minister of the Boston church, climbed up into a big oak tree, and made a speech which carried the day for John Winthrop to the con- fusion of the heretical disciples of Anne Hutch- inson. Through these stormy waters Shepard 222 Cambridge steered his course so discreetly that he came into high favor among all people as a sound and vigilant minister, and Cotton Mather tells us that " it was with a respect unto this vigi- lancy and the enlightening and powerful minis try of Mr. Shepard, that, when the foundation of a college was to be laid, Cambridge, rather than any other place, was pitched upon to be the seat of that happy seminary." The founding of Harvard College by the little colony was surely one of the most heroic, devout and fruitful events of American his- tory. Upon the main entrance to the college grounds is written to-day an inscription taken from one of the earliest chronicles, entitled New England's First Fruits. We read that : " After God had carried us safe to New England and wee had builded our houses and provided necessaries for our livelihood, reared convenient places for God's wor- ship and settled the Civil Government, one of the next things we longed for and looked after was to advance learning and perpetuate it to posterity, dreading to leave an illiterate ministry to the churches when our pre- sent ministers shall lie in the dust." Accordingly, on the 28th day of October, 1636, Sir Harry Vane — Milton's " Vane, young in years, but in sage counsel old" — being the Cambridge 223 Governor, the General Court of the colony passed the following memorable vote : " The Court agrees to give ^400 towards a school or college — whereof ^200 shall be paid the next year and ^200 when the work is fin- ished." In the following year this vote was supplemented by a further order that the col- lege " is ordered to be at Newtowne, and that Newtowne shall henceforth be called Cam- bridge." This is the significant act that marks the distinction between the Puritan colony and all pioneer settlements based on material foundations. For a like spirit under like cir- cumstances history will be searched in vain. Never were the bases of such a structure laid by a community of men so poor, and under such sullen and averted stars. The colony was nothing but a handful of settlers barely cling- ing to the wind-swept coast ; it was feeble and insignificant, in danger from Indians on the one hand and foreign foes on the other ; it was in throes of dissension on the matter of heresy which threatened to divide it permanently, yet so resolved were the people that " the Commonwealth be furnished with knowing and understanding men and the churches with an able ministry," that they voted the entire 2 24 Cambridge annual income of the colony to establish a place of learning. Said Lowell : " This act is second in real import to none that has happened in the Western hemisphere. The material growth of the colonies would have brought about their political separation from the mother country in the ful- ness of time, but the founding of the first college here saved New England from becoming a mere geographical expression. It did more, it insured our intellectual in- dependence of the old world. That independence has been long in coming, but the chief names of those who have hastened its coming are written on the roll of Har- vard College." But even the self-sacrificing zeal of the colonists would have been almost unavailing had it not been for the coming to Massachu- setts at this time of a young Puritan minister, another graduate of Emanuel, upon whom death had already set his seal. Says the chronicler : "As we were thinking and consulting how to effect this great work, it pleased God to stir up the heart of one Mr. John Harvard, a godly gentleman and a lover of learning then living amongst us, to bequeath the one half of his estate, in all about ;^ 1700, toward the erection of the college, and all his library." Was ever a gift so marvellously multiplied as the bequest of this obscure young scholar? STATUE OF JOHN HARVARD AND MEMORIAL HALL, HARVARD COLLEGE. 225 2 26 Cambridge By this one decisive act of public-spirited and well-directed munificence this youth made for himself an imperishable name and enrolled himself among the foremost of the benefactors of humanity. In acknowledgment of Har- vard's bequest the General Court voted in 1638 " that the College at Cambridge be called Harvard College." It is the presence of the college that has given distinctive atmosphere to Cambridge. The character of the place has been deter- mined by the fact that for more than two cent- uries and a half it has been the home of succeeding generations of men devoted not to trade and manufacture, but to the cultivation of the intellectual and spiritual elements in human life. Over the college gate stands an iron cross and upon the gate-post is the seal of the college with "Veritas" written across its open books. The Harvard life and spirit and teaching are all adapted to lead young men to the love and service of truth and to send them out to a ministry as wide and varied as the needs of humanity. The influence of the scholars and teachers and administrators that have been drawn into the service of the college is paramount, even if it is unconsciously Cambridge 227 exercised and felt, in the community about the college. Here have always been — inevitable in a town which is the resort of the chosen youth of the country — a healthy, wholesome independence of spirit and a high-minded earnestness. Here has always been the re- fined simplicity of life natural to a community composed of, or influenced by, men of quiet tastes and modest incomes. Here is that touch of sentiment which binds men to the place of their education and to the memories and friendships of youth. Here are the asso- ciations with orreat events and names which inspire patriotism and ambition of worthy service. Then, too, it has been said : " Cambridge is an interesting place to live in because the poetry of Holmes, Longfellow and Lowell has touched with the light of genius some of its streets, houses, churches and graveyards, and made familiar to the imaginations of thousands of persons who never saw them, its rivers, marshes and bridges. It adds to the interest of living in any place that famous authors have walked in its streets, and loved its highways and byways, and written of its elms, willows and ' spreading chestnut tree,' of its robins and herons. The very names of Cam- bridge streets remind the dwellers in it of the biographies of Sparks, the sermons of Walker, the law-books of Story, the orations of Everett, and the presidencies of Dunster, Chauncy, Willard, Kirkland and Quincy." 2 28 Cambridge The place is not unworthy of the wealth of affection and poetic tribute that has been lav- ished upon it. The old Puritan church records, with their quaint entries about heresies and witchcraft, about ordinations where " four gal- lons of wine " and bushels of wheat and malt and hundredweights of beef and mutton \vere consumed, and about funerals conducted with solemn pomp ; and the town records with notes about the " Palisadoe " and the Common rights and "the Cowyard " and the building of "The Great Bridge," — a vast undertaking, — have more than merely antiquarian interest, for they reveal the intelligent and sturdy de- mocracy and broad principles of government upon W'hich the American republic rests. But if these ancient records seem uninvitinof, let the visitor turn to the annals of the stirring time of the Revolution. General Gage called Harvard College "that nest of sedition." In that nest were hatched John Hancock, James Otis, Samuel Adams, John Adams, Joseph Warren and many another of the patriot leaders. The town was the abode of many of the leading Tory families, but as early as 1765 the town-meeting voted "that (with all humility) it is the opinion of the town that 230 Cambridge the inhabitants of this Province have a legal claim to all the natural, inherent, constitutional rights of Englishmen and — that the Stamp Act is an infraction upon these rights." And after an argument on the merits of the ques- tion it was further ordered " that this vote be recorded in the Town Book, that the children yet unborn may see the desire their ancestors had for their freedom and happiness." For the next ten years there is scarcely a proceed- ing in the preliminary debates and contests that led up to open revolution that is not il- lustrated in the resolutions recorded by the Cambridge town clerk. Vote followed vote, as the restrictive measures of Parliament irri- tated the townsmen, till at the town-meeting of 1773 it was resolved "that this town — is ready on the shortest notice, to join with the town of Boston and other towns, in any meas- ures that may be thought proper, to deliver ourselves and posterity from slavery." The 2d of September, 1774, just escaped the his- toric importance of April 19th in the next year. On that day several thousand men gathered on Cambridge Common and pro- ceeded in orderly fashion to force the resigna- tion of two of His Majesty's privy councillors, Cambridge 231 and then, marching up Brattle Street to the house of the Lieutenant-Governor of the Province, Thomas OHver — the house that was afterwards the home in succession of Elbridee HOME OF LOWELL. Gerry, Rev. Charles Lowell and his son James Russell Lowell — they extorted from him, too, a pledge to resign. " My house in Cam- bridge," he wrote, "being surrounded by about four thousand men, I sign my name — 232 Cambridge Thomas Oliver." Both the first and second of the Provincial Congresses met in Cambridge, and at last the running battle of April 19, 1775, swept through the borders of the town. Twenty-six Americans were killed within the boundaries of Cambridge, six of them citizens of the place, and the American militia who followed the British retreat from Concord on that momentous evening lay on their arms at last on Cambridge Common. For eleven months after Concord fight, Cam- bridge was a fortified camp. The college build- ings, the Episcopal church and the larger houses were occupied as barracks. General Ward established his headquarters in the gambrel- roofed house which was afterwards the birth- place of Oliver Wendell Holmes. On the lawn before the house, in the hush of the June evening, Prescott's men were drawn up, while President Langdon of the college, in cap and gown, prayed for the success of their arms ere they marched to Bunker Hill. Two weeks later Washington reached the camp, and on July 3d, under the spreading elm at the west- ern end of the Common, unsheathed his sword and, as the inscription reads, " took command of the American Army." Washington lived WASHINGTON ELM. 233 234 Cambridge for a while in the president's house, but soon made his headquarters in the fine old mansion of the Vassalls which was later the home of Longfellow. After March, 1776, when Boston was finally evacuated by the British, Cambridge ceased to be involved in the military events of the Rev- olution, but in 1777 the captured troops of Burgoyne were quartered in the town, the soldiers swinging their hammocks in the col- lege buildings and the officers occupying the deserted mansions of " Tory Row." Burgoyne lived in the house sometimes called, in derision of its first clerical occupant, " The Bishop's Palace," and Riedesel and his accomplished wife in the Lechmere house. " Never have I chanced," wrote Madame Riedesel, " upon such a charming situation," and never has our colonial life been more charmingly described than by this brave and vivacious German lady in the letters written from her pleasant prison to her distant home. For fifty years after the Revolutionary epoch, Cambridge w^as a country town of quiet habits, its only distinguishing characteristic being the scholastic and literary atmosphere that hung about the college. It was a good 235 236 Cambridge place to be born in, and it was surely good to live in the place where Everett and Ouincy ruled the academic world ; where Longfellow wrote his poetry, and Palfrey his history, and Sparks his biographies ; where Washington Allston painted and Margaret Fuller dreamed ; where William Story and Richard Dana and Lowell and Holmes and the rest walked to church and stopped to gossip with the neigh- bors at the post-office. " No town in this country," says Thomas Wentvvorth Higginson, "has been the occasion of two literary de- scriptions more likely to become classic than two which bear reference to the Cambridge of fifty years ago. One of these is Lowell's well-known Fireside Travels and the other is the scarcely less racy chapter in the Harvard Book, contributed by John Holmes, younger brother of the ' Autocrat.' " To these happy descriptions we may now add the accounts of Colonel Higginson's boyhood in his Cheerful Yesterdays, and Dr. Holmes's loving story of his birthplace in the Poet at the Breakfast Table. "Cambridge," wrote Lowell, " was still a country village with its own habits and traditions, not yet feeling too strongly the force of suburban gravitation. Approaching it from the west, by what was then called the New Road, you would pause on the brow of Symond's Hill to 238 Cambridge enjoy a view singularly soothing and placid. In front of you lay the town, tufted with elms, lindens, and horse- chestnuts, which had seen Massachusetts a colony, and were fortunately unable to emigrate with the Tories, by whom, or by whose fathers, they were planted. Over it rose the noisy belfry of the College, the square, brown tower of the Episcopal Church, and the slim, yellow spire of the parish meeting-house. On your right the Charles slipped smoothly through green and purple salt meadows, darkened here and there with the blossoming black grass as with a stranded cloud-shadow. To your left upon the Old Road you saw some half-dozen dignified old houses of the colonial time, all comfortably fronting southward. . . . We called it ' the Village ' then, and it was essentially an English village — quiet, unspeculative, without enterprise, sufficing to itself, and only showing such differences from the original type as the public school and the system of town government might su- perinduce. A few houses, chiefly old, stood around the bare common, with ample elbow-room, and old women, capped and spectacled, still peered through the same windows from which they had watched Lord Percy's artillery rumble by to Lexington, or caught a glimpse of the handsome Virginia general who had come to wield our homespun Saxon chivalry. The hooks were to be seen from which had swung the hammocks of Burgoyne's captive red-coats. If memory does not deceive me, women still washed clothes in the town spring, clear as that of Bandusia. One coach sufficed for all the travel to the metropolis." Cambridge is no longer the idyllic village of Cambridge 239 Lowell's boyhood, but a great suburban city bustling with many activities. So rapid has been the growth that Lowell on his return from Europe in 1889 wrote: " I feel somehow as if Charon had ferried me the wrong way, and yet it is into a world of ghosts that he has brought me. I hardly know the old road, a street now, that I have paced so many years, for the new houses. My old homestead seems to have a puzzled look in its eyes as it looks down — a trifle superciliously methinks — on these upstarts. " The old English elms in front of my house have n't changed. A trifle thicker in the waist, perhaps, as is the wont of prosperous elders, but looking just as I first saw them seventy years ago, and it is balm to my eyes. I am by no means sure that it is wise to love the ac- customed and familiar as much as I do, but it is pleasant and gives a unity to life which trying can't accomplish." Cambridge is to-day the abode of as happy, comfortable and progressive a people as the world contains. It presents a unique example in this country of a city thoroughly well gov- erned. It is now a quarter-century since parti- sanship has been tolerated in city affairs. In the City Hall, erected under the administration of Mayor William E. Russell, who here got his training for the splendid service he after- ward rendered to the State, and might, had his 240 Cambridge life been spared, have rendered to the nation, no hquor Hcense has ever been signed. So excellent has been the record of successive non- partisan administrations in the city that the very phrase, "The Cambridge Idea," has be- come well known even outside the limits of Massa- chusetts as signify- ing the conception of public office as a public trust and the conduct of municipal affairs on purely business principles. Yet in ^ V spite of its muni- cipal expansion and business enter- prises, Cambridge is still pre-eminently the place where the lamp of learning is kept lighted. Though the college waxes great in numbers and its buildings mul- tiply, and the jar of business invades the aca- demic quiet, yet the purposes and habits of the scholar's life still distinguish the community. It is said that when Cambridge people are at a WILLIAM E. RUSSELL. Cambridge 241 loss for conversation one asks the other, " How is your new book coming on ? " and the ques- tion rarely fails to bring a voluble reply. There is an entire alcove in the City Library devoted to the works of Cambridge writers. " Briga- dier-Generals," said Howells, himself once a resident of the town, "were no more common in Washington during the Civil War than au- thors in Cambridge." It is an interesting illus- tration of the persistence of good tradition that the place where was established the first print- ing-press in America, set up by Stephen Daye in 1639, should still be a centre of book-pro- duction. Not only do John Fiske and Charles Eliot Norton and Thomas Wentworth Higgin- son and a score of others maintain the literary reputation of the place, but the great establish- ments of the Riverside Press, the University Press and the Athenaeum Press put forth a constant stream of high-standard publications, and send a most characteristic Cambridge pro- duct all over the world. Still Is Cambridge one of the shrines of pilgrimage. The anti- quarians ponder over the mossy gravestones In the little " God's Acre " between the " Sentinel and Nun," as Dr. Holmes called the two church towers which front the colleo^e gate, and there 242 Cambridge they read the long Inscriptions that tell the virtues of the first ministers of the parish and the early presidents of the college. The patriots come and standunder the Washington elm, or linger by the gates of the Craigie house or Elmwood, or pace the noble Me- morial Hall, which declares how Harvard's sons died for their country, while visitors flock to the great museum which the genius and en- ergy of Louis Agassiz upbuilt, and to the gar- den where Asa Gray taught and botanized. Thousands of men all over the country think of Cambridge with grateful love as they re- member the years of their happy youth ; and the citizens of the place, while they look back- ward with just pride, look forward with con- fidence that there is to be more of inspiring history and true poetry in the city's future than in its fortunate past. CONCORD FIRST IN MANY FIELDS By frank B. SANBORN OLD this New World is, — geologically more ancient, perhaps, than that hemi- sphere from whose western edge Columbus set sail, four centuries ago, and found our conti- nent lying across his way, as he plodded to Cathay. Yet, uncounted as our barbarous cent- uries and antediluvian seons are, real history begins only with the opening of the seventeenth century, when the English Puritan and the French Jesuit transferred to these shores the unfolding civilization and the rival religions of Western Europe. When we see at Ply- mouth the wooded glacial hillsides, under which the Pilgrims landed and established democracy in their wilderness, we may remember that their venture, though bolder, because earlier, than that of Bulkeley and Willard, who planted 243 244 Concord the Concord colony, was yet but fifteen years in advance, and was made beside a friendly ocean, bearing succor and trade, and feeding them from its abundance. But the Concord colonists sat down in the gloomy shadow of the forest, amid trails of the savage and the wolf. Still more heroic was the crusade of the Jesuit in New France ; but while romance and martyrdom were his lot, our Puritans planted here the germs of a grand republic. " God said, ' I am tired of kings, I suffer them no more ; Up to my ear the morning brings The outrage of the poor. I will divide my goods, Call in the wretch and slave ; None shall rule but the humble. And none but Toil shall have.' " The first event in the history of Massachu- setts was this planting of a territorial demo- cracy. The colony of Concord was granted by Winthrop and his legislature in September, 1635, to Peter Bulkeley, a Puritan minister, from the little parish of Odell or Woodhill (colloquially called " Wuddle") in English Bed- fordshire, and to Simon Willard, a merchant, from Hawkshurst in Kent. Twelve other fam- 246 Concord ilies were joined with them in the grant, and another minister, Rev. John Jones, brought other famihes from England, aiming towards Concord, in October, 1635, The situation was doubtless chosen by Major Willard, an Indian trader and in after years a fighter of the Indians ; who also selected and partly colo- nized two other towns, farther in the wilder- ness, — Groton and Lancaster. But the true father of this Concord, and probably the giver of its name (altering it from the Indian Mus- ketaquit), was Rev. Peter Bulkeley, ancestor of its most celebrated citizen, Waldo Emerson. Of this worthy, whose grave, like that of Moses, is unknown to this day, something should be said, before we come to later heroes. Peter Bulkeley was the son of Rev. Edward Bulke- ley, a doctor of divinity in English Cam- bridge, — a scholar and man of wealth, who was rector of the Bedfordshire parish just named, where his son was born in 1583. He succeeded his father there in 1620. It is in the country of John Bunyan and Cowper the poet, this little parish of Odell. Like Concord River, the Ouse, on which it stands, is unmatched for winding, even in England. Below the old castle of Odell, and Concord 247 the church, still standing, where the Bulkeleys preached, runs this crooked stream, murmuring as it meanders through its fringe of meadow- land, green as the richest strip of English pasture can be, which lies between such a river and the low hills that come down towards its edge. This Ouse (there is another in York- shire) flows from Bucks, the county of John Hampden, through Bedford, the county of the Russells, and Huntingdon, where Crom- well lived, and finally into the North Sea at Lynn. On the north bank lies the hill upon which Odell stands, — the highway from Sharnbrook to Harrold and Olney (long the home of Cowper) running from east to west along the breast of the hill. The old church standing amid trees — conspicuous is a chestnut of surpassing size and beauty — is directly opposite the ancient castle, now a comfortable and handsome mansion, built some two hundred years ago, — or about the time the oldest houses in Concord were built. It was no love of adventure, we may be sure, that brought Peter Bulkeley, at the age of fifty- two, from this lovely country into a land of forests and of poverty ; but a desire to escape the ecclesiastical tyranny of Laud and his bish- 248 Concord ops, and to establish a true church in the wil- derness. Some difficulties attended even this, for when, in July, 1636, Mr. Bulkeley w^as about to organize his church at Cambridge, in order to have Sir Henry Vane and John Win- throp (Governor and Deputy Governor that year) present at the ceremony, lo and behold ! these great men " took it in ill part, and thought not fit to go, because they had not come to them before, as they ought to have done, and as others had done before them, to acquaint them with their purpose." Again, in April, 1637, when Mr. Bulkeley was to be or- dained (also in Cambridge), Winthrop says that Vane and John Cotton and John Wheel- wright, and the two ruling elders of Boston " and the rest of that church which were of any note, did none of them come to this meet- ing." " The reason was conceived to be," adds Winthrop, " because they counted the Concord ministers as /^ > vXS^ ^-J^si^p''- o-^*-^ H'>n<>'''-'''^^t-rt<^ eJi 1% o-uet-fprtit f cXriTSccfz. ■moti'h^^A 7x>A'rrf-7r',:-ttitL Cifsff-^^'^S ever 7«e-«^ C a^e^ ^'^^'l O/^-T v/^^.«^^«^-^'!f '^''^'^^■^^^'V^'' J.^s, evL'.yt ir»4£isA^- 50 O-i ^ y 'rncU^ 4.>^c,JAe ?.rficH/C -^telSSfc--- FACSIMILE OF A PAGE FROM GOVERNOR BRADFORD'S MANUSCRIPT, " PLIMOTH PLANTATION." THE ORIGINAL IS NOW IN THE BOSTON STATE HOUSE. 302 Plymouth century — thirty weavers of the diocese of Worcester — who were summoned before the Council of Oxford to answer a charge of mak- ing light of the sacraments and of priestly power. Though they answered that they were Christians and reverenced the teachings of the Copyright, 1893, by A. S. Burbank. PULPIT RUCK, CLARKE'S ISLAND. apostles, they were driven from the country as heretics, to perish of cold. This " pious firm- ness " on the part of the council, writes the short-sighted chronicler, not only cleansed the realm of England from the pestilence which had crept in, but also prevented it from creep- ing in again. But the pestilence did creep in Plymouth 303 again and again and the weeds grew apace, for which thanks are chiefly due to John Wychf and his followers. Even before the Reformation Foxe tells of " secret multitudes who tasted and followed the sweetness of God's Holy Word, and whose fervent zeal may appear by their sitting up all night in reading and hearing." But we must be content to trace our ancestry and our love of liberty to the early years of the seventeenth century, at which time, as we may now all read in the clear lettering of Bradford's own pen, " truly their affliction was not smale ; which notwithstand- ing they bore sundrie years with much patience, till they were occasioned to see further into things by the light Oi y^ word of God. How not only these base and beggerly ceremonies were unlawfuU, but also that y' lordly &r tiranous power of y' prelats ought not to be submitted unto ; which thus, contrary to the freedome of the gos- pell, would load & burden mens consciences, and by their compulsive power make a prophane mixture of per- sons and things in the worship of God. And that their offices & calings, courts and cannons &c. were unlaw- fuU and antichristian ; being such as have no warrantein y* word of God ; but the same that were used in poperie & still retained." So these brave men, whose hearts the Lord had touched with heavenly zeal for His truth. 304 Plymouth " as y' Lords free peojjle joined them selves into a church estate, in y" felowship of y' gosjjell, to walke in all his wayes, made known, or to be made known unto them, according to their best endeavours, whatsoever it should cost them, the Lord assisting them. And that it cost them something this ensewing historie will declare." The charming- scene of these secret meet- ings is now well known. In the little village of Scrooby, where the three shires of Notting- ham, York and Lincoln join their borders, then stood a stately manor-house, once the favorite hunting-seat of the archbishops of York. Under this hospitable but already somewhat crumbling roof William Brewster, Vv^ho had been appointed "Post" of Scrooby in 1590, welcomed these sufferers for conscience sake. Hither they stole through the green country lanes, from far around to listen to the " illumin- ating ministry" of Richard Clyfton, "a grave & revered preacher who under God had been a means of y^ conversion of many. And also that famous and worthy man, Mr. John Robinson, who after- wards was their pastor for many years till y^ Lord tooke him away by death." Here, too, from the neighboring hamlet of Austerfield, came the lad William Bradford, already eager for spiritual guidance. Walk- THE EARLY NORMAN DOORWAY AT AUSTERFIELD CHURCH. 305 3o6 Plymouth ing under the elm-trees of the highroad, and through the yellow gorse, across green mead- ows and by the banks of the placid Idle, he stopped perhaps to admire the mulberry-tree planted there by the world-weary Cardinal Wolsey. That arch-enemy of the Reforma- tion little thought that a branch of this tree would one day cross the Atlantic, to be pre- served with Pilgrim relics by friends of that " new, pernicious sect of Lutherans," against which he warned the king ! Near Bradford's birthplace in Austerfield now stands, completely restored, the twelfth- century parish church where he was baptized in 1590, and from which he "seceded" when about seventeen years old. Did the quaint old bell-cote with the two small bells, the beau- tiful Norman arch of the southern doorway with its rich zigzag ornament and beak-headed moulding, the wicked-looking dragon on the tympanum, with the tongue of fiame — did this perfect picture of Old-World beauty flash across his memory when, some thirty years later, he helped build the rude fort on our Bur- ial Hill, which served as the first " Meeting- House" in New England ? We like to believe that Bradford belonged Plymouth 307 to the honest yeoman class, that he " was used to a plaine country life & the innocente trade of husbandrey " ; we know that he had a natu- ral love of study which led him, despite the many difficulties he met, to master the Dutch Copyright Ijy A. b. Burbauk. THE OLD FORT AND FIRST MEETING-HOUSE, ON BURIAL HILL, 1621. tongue as well as French, Latin, Greek and Hebrew, which latter tongue he studied the more, "that he might see with his own eyes the ancient oracles of God in all their native beauty." Associated as teacher here with the vener- able Richard Clyfton, " the minister with the long white beard," and succeeding him as pas- tor, we have found the eloquent John Rob- 3o8 Plymouth inson, that winner of all men's hearts, that helper of all men's souls. A youthful student at Cambridge, living in an age and in an at- mosphere of religious questioning, he was deeply troubled with scruples concerning con- formity. He tells us " had not the truth been in my heart as a burning fire shut up in my bones, I had never broken those bonds of flesh and blood wherein I was so straitly tied, but had suffered the light of God to have been put out in mine unthankful heart by other men's darkness." Happy in finding congenial spirits in the new community at Scrooby, Bradford tells us he soon became " every way as a commone father unto them." " Yea, such was y* mutuall love and reciprocal! respecte that this worthy man had to his flocke and his flocke to him that it might be said of them as it once was of that fa- mouse Emperour, Marcus Aurelious and y*" people of Rome, that it was hard to judge wheather he delighted more in haveing such a people, or they in haveing such a pastor. His love was greate towards them, and his care was all ways bente for their best good, both for soul & body." Under his inspiring guidance, and with Wil- liam Brewster as their especial stay and help, they were mercifully enabled to " wade through Plymouth 309 things." Some twenty-three years older than Bradford, we learn from that modest chronicler, who wrote " in a plaine stile, with singuler regard unto y^ simple trueth in all things," that Brewster had also a wider experience of the world. " After he had attained some learning, viz., the know- ledge of the Latin tongue and some insight into the Greek, and spent some small time at Cambridge, and then being first seasoned with the seeds of grace and virtue, he went to the Court, and served that religious and godly gentleman, Mr. Davison, divers years, when he was Secretary of State, who found him so discreet and faithful, as he trusted him above all others that were about him, and only employed him in matters of greatest trust and secrecy." After the innocent Davison was committed to the Tower by the treacherous " Good Queen Bess," Brewster retired to Scrooby, where he greatly promoted and furthered their good cause : " he himself most commonly deepest in the charge, and sometimes above his ability, and in this estate he continued many years, doing the best he could, and walking accord- ing to the light he saw, until the Lord revealed further unto him." But these assemblies, however humble and 3IO Plymouth secret, could not long escape the vigilant eye of the law. They were now " hunted and persecuted on every side, so as their former afflictions were but as flea-bitings in comparison of these which now came upon them. For some were taken and clapt up in prison, others had their houses besett & watcht night and day, & hardly escaped their hands ; and y' most were faine to flie and leave their howses and habitations, and the means of their livelihood." " Seeing them selves so molested, and that ther was no hope of their continuance ther, by a joynte consente they resolved to goe into the Low-Countries, wher they heard was freedome of Religion for all men." This quitting their native soil, their dear friends and their happy homes to earn their living, they knew not how, in a foreign country, was indeed considered by many of them to be " an adventure almost desperate, a case in- tolerable, & a misserie worse than death." But after many betrayals, many delays, many hardships by land and sea, they finally weathered all opposing storms. At Amster- dam, that friendly city of the Netherlands Republic, whose Declaration of Independence dates from July 26, 1581, they met together again, with no small rejoicing. But in the midst of the wealth of this fair city they soon saw " the grime and grisly face of Plymouth 311 povertie coming upon them like an armed man, with whom they must bukle and incounter, and from whom they could not flye." For this reason, and to avoid religious contentions already rife there, in a year's time they decided to remove to Leyden, "a fair and bewtifull citie, & of a sweete situation." Here the story of the long siege of Leyden, bravely sustained in 1573, must have excited their ready sympathy, and the city's choice of a university, offered by William of Orange, instead of the exemption the city could have had from certain imposts, must have won the admiration of these scholarly men. The stay of the English exiles here of some twelve years — the period of the truce between Holland and Spain — was, though trying, no doubt a good preparation for the greater hardships they were to endure. While Brad- ford wove fustian and his fellow-workers carded wool, made hats and built houses, Brewster printed " heretical " books, and taught Eng- lish " after y^ Latin manner." The harmony of their peaceful and industrious lives attracted many friends, until some three hundred kin- dred spirits joined John Robinson in his prayers for " more light." 312 Plymouth One who soon proved himself to be an in- valuable member of the community was Ed- ward Winslow, a highly educated gentleman from Worcestershire. His energy^ his diplom- acy and practical experience of the world, his influence with Cromwell and other power- ful friends in high places, removed many diffi- culties in the way of the struggling colony that was to be. Four times he was their chosen agent in England, and was thrice elected gov- ernor. Here John Carver, a trusted adviser, who later became the first governor of New Ply- mouth, was chosen deacon of their church. Serving in the troops sent over by Elizabeth to aid the Dutch in maintaining the Protestant religion against the Spaniards was the valiant soldier, Myles Standish, of the Dokesbury branch of the Standishes of Lancashire, who date from the Conquest. There the beautiful Standish church still bears on its buttresses the family shield — three standing dishes argent on a field azure — and Standish Hall is still hung with portraits of warriors in armor, beruffed lawyers with pointed beards, and gay courtiers of the Queen — the Roman Catholic ancestors of our plain fighter ! Luckily for us all, he 313 314 Plymouth cast in his lot with the plucky workers he met in Leyden, and his cheery presence and cour- age must have been of great service in plan- ning the perilous voyage on which they were about to embark. For, as the truce with Spain drew to a close, and as the older among- them begfan to consider the uncertain future that lay before their child- ren, they longed to take refuge on some freer soil, however far away. As Bradford writes, with a courage at once humble and sublime : " Lastly (and which was not least) a great hope and inward zeall they had of laying some good foundation, or at least to make some way thereunto, for y' propagat- ing and advancing y* gospell of y' kingdom of Christ in those remote parts of y' world : yea, though they should be but even as stepping-stones unto others for y' per- forming of so great a work." So, " not out of newfangledness, or other such like giddie humor, but for sundrie weightie and solid reasons," the voyage was determined upon, and the King's consent to their emigra- tion to America sought. Winslow tells us, in his Bricfe N^arrative of the True Grounds for the First Planting of New England, that when their plans were laid before King James he remarked that " it was Plymouth 3^5 a good and honest notion," and asking further what profits might arise, he was answered, "fishing." "So God have my soul," he said, *' so God have my soul, 't is an honest trade ; 't was the apostles' own calling ! " And we may state here, notwithstanding Bradford's statement that in the beginning " we did lack small hooks," New England, before 1650, an- nually sent to Europe ^100,000 worth of dried codfish. After many weary negotiations, a patent was at length obtained, but the future colonists were refused a formal grant of freedom in re- ligious worship under the King's broad seal. A loan was made by some seventy " Merchant Adventurers" in England, and late in July, 1620, we find our future colonists on the quay at Delfthaven, ready to embark on the Speed- well. They are surrounded by their tearful friends, for whom, Winslow says, " they felt such love as is seldom found on earth." Many of their number are to stay at Leyden under the faithful care of John Robinson, whose touching farewell words Winslow has preserved for us : " he charged us before God and his blessed angels to follow him no further than he followed Christ ; and if o 1 6 Plymouth God should reveal anything to us by any other instru- ment of his, to be as ready to receive it as ever we were to receive any truth by his ministry ; for he was very confident the Lord had more trutli and light yet to break forth out of his holy word." This sad scene must have been still vivid in Bradford's memory when he wrote some ten years later in Plymouth : " truly dolfull was y^ sight of that sade and mournful! parting ; to see what sighs and sobbs and praires did sound amongst them, what tears did gush from every eye, & pithy speeches peirst each harte " ; " but they knewe they were pilgrimes, and looked not much on those things, but lift up their eyes to y* heavens, their dearest cuntrie, and quieted their spirits." After a good run with a prosperous wind they found the Alayfiowcr at Southampton, but as the Speedwell proved unseaworthy they were again delayed, and after putting in for repairs to Dartmouth and Plymouth, the Mayflower finally, on September i6th, sailed alone from Plymouth. Observe the group of brave voy- acrers settingf forth on an unknown " sea of troubles," trustful wives and children, manly youths and blooming maidens, as they wave a last good-by to dear Old England from the deck of the Mayflower. Their leaders form Plymouth 317 a notable band : Brewster, Carver, Bradford, Winslow, Standish, the soul, the heart, the head, the good right hand, the flashing sword, well-chosen instruments to unlock the frozen heart of New England, and to found there Empire such as Spaniard never knew." Perhaps George Herbert, prince of poets, referred to this sailing when he wrote in his Church Militant : Religion stands on tiptoe in our land, Ready to pass to the American strand." Of the terrible discomforts and dangers of that perilous voyage of sixty-seven days who has not read the pitiful story ? Have we not, all of us, "come over in the Mayfiowei^' and rejoiced with these patient souls when at length, one clear morning in November, the shores of Cape Cod lay fair before their expectant eyes ? Determining to put in to Cape Cod harbor, and so to land on a territory where their patent could confer no rights, the leaders of the ex- pedition, after consulting together in the cabin of the Mayflower, there drew up and signed the historic "Compact" which was to convert the hundred voyagers into the founders of a 3^8 Plymouth commonwealth. There they solemnly and mutually, in the presence of God and of one another, combined themselves into a civil body politic, to frame and enact such just and equal laws from time to time as should be thouofht most meet and convenient for the general good of the colony, unto which they promised all due submission and obedience. While their sloop-rigg shallop of some fifteen tons was made ready for exploration by sea, those who went at once far into the forest came back with reports of fine growths of oak, pine, sassafras, juniper, birch and holly, abund- ant grape-vines and red cedar, which like san- dalwood Sheds its perfume on the axe that slays it." They found excellent springs, many deer and wild-fowl, and what proved to be their salvation in the wilderness, " divers faire Indian baskets filled with corn, which seemed to them a goodly sight." For this precious seed-corn the Indian owners were conscientiously paid double price some six months later. The weakness and illness natural after the discomforts of such a voyage now made them- selves felt in an alarminof manner, and an ex- Plymouth 319 ploring party was hastily organized to select the spot for their final settlement. Setting forth in the frail shallop, a party of eighteen picked men, after a successful '* First En- counter " with the Indians, were driven by a furious gale to take shelter in the lee of a little island lying in a friendly harbor to the west of their starting-point. After thawing out over a good cedar-wood fire and resting for a night, they explored the island and repaired their boat. Of this island, afterward named for John Clarke, mate of the Mayflower, Bradford writes : " But though this had been a day and night of much trouble & danger unto them, yet God gave them a morn- ing of comforte & refreshing (as usually he doth to his children), for y* next day was a faire sunshining day, and they found them sellvs to be on an iland secure from the Indeans, wher they might drie their stufe, fixe their peeces, & rest them selves, and gave God thanks for his mercies, in their manifould deliverances. And this being the last day of y" weeke, they prepared ther to keepe y^ Sabath. On Munday they sounded the har- bor, and founde it fitt for shipping ; and marched into y' land and found diverse cornfeilds and litle runing brooks, a place (as they supposed) fitt for situation ; at least it was y* best they could find, and y' season & their presente necessitie made them glad to accepte of it." 320 Plymouth So, on the 21st day of December, 1620, was made the now world-famous landing at Ply- mouth, of which these few words are the humble record. After a week of anxious waiting their return must have been hailed with delight on board the Mayflower-, and their good tidings warmly welcomed. As with all sails set the good ship made her way into the harbor, eager eyes doubtless watched with joy the high hills of Manomet, the wooded bluffs, the shining, pro- tecting beaches, the fair island, the low friendly stretch of the mainland sloping back to the picturesque hillsides, which make Plymouth harbor at all times and seasons a goodly sight to look upon. And here at length lay safely at anchor the "... simple Mayflower of the salt-sea mead ! " And now, " Courteous Reader," as writes that most faithful secretary of the Pilgrims, Nathaniel Morton, in ]\\?, N'ew England Memor- ial (1669), "that I may not hold thee too long in the porch," even in such goodly com- pany, I bid you welcome to the Plymouth of to-day. For in the harbor, the sand-dunes, the green hillsides and the fresh valleys and fl 322 Plymouth meadows, in the blue streams and ponds, the past is inseparably blended with the present. A small theatre it is, and the actors were but few who played such important rdles in the building up of a nation, but the few memorials in which that early struggle for existence is recorded are here lovingly preserved. From the Rock where they landed we may follow their weary footsteps up the steep as- cent of the first street, now named for Ley- den, their city of refuge, and which may well be called the Via Sacra of Plymouth, Run- ning back from the waterside to the foot of Burial Hill, and parallel to the Town Brook, it formed the centre of their daily toil, the scene of their early joys and sorrows. Here on either hand were staked out the homesteads for the nineteen first families ; here with sturdy courage and endless labor they dragged the trees felled outside the clearing, and built their rude houses, thatching them with swamp-grass. The site of their first or " Common-House " is now marked, and near the lot assigned to Elder Brewster still we may stop to drink from the Pilgrim Spring: the "delicate water" is fresh and sweet now as when our thirsty fore- fathers delighted in it. 324 Plymouth Crossing Main Street, once the King's high- way, we find ourselves in Town Square, under the shade of beautiful old elm-trees, planted more than a hundred years ago. To the north was William Bradford's homestead. Here came all those who sought advice and help in their sore need, and here in 1630 were begun those " scribbled writings " which, " peeced up at times of leasure afterward," are now printed in letters of gold in many a faithful memory ! Here, perhaps, or in the vicinity of the Com- mon House, was concluded their first treaty with a foreign power for mutual aid and pro- tection, when the noble chief Massasoit, with his sixty Indian braves, was led thither by Samoset, the friendly sachem, whose English welcome had surprised the anxious colonists. Through Samoset they learned that some four years before a pest had devastated that region, called by them Patuxet. With him came Tis- quantum, who became a valued friend and in- terpreter, teaching them to plant their corn when the oak-leaves were the size of a mouse's ear, and to place three herring in each hill with the seed-corn, which novel practice awakened serious doubts in English minds. In the autumn of 1621, this was the scene Plymouth 325 of the first Thanksgiving held in New Eng- land, when, their houses built, their crops gar- nered from some thirty fertile acres, their furs and lumber safely stored, they made merry for three days, with Massasoit and ninety Indians as guests. Even with fish, wild-fowl and deer in plenty, the good housewives must have spent a lively week of preparation for such a feast ! Farther up the slope was built, in 1637, their first meeting-house, and at the head of the Square now stands the lately completed stone church of the first parish. In the belfry hangs the old town bell, cast by Paul Revere, which for nearly a century has had a voice in the affairs of the town. Following the now steep incline, we stop to take breath on the brow of the hill, the spot so wisely chosen by Captain Myles Standish for the building of the solid timber fort, whereon he promptly placed his cannon. " Unable to speak for himself was he, But his guns spoke for him right valiantly ! " And most persuasive did their voices prove, inspiring awe in the hearts of the " salvages " for many miles around ! Here in the shelter of the fort thev met 326 Plymouth for worship ; here their hymns of praise and prayers for guidance arose in the still air of the wilderness. In four short months one half of these brave souls had been laid to rest on Cole's Hill by the waterside. And yet, when one April morning those who were left to mourn them stood here watching the Alay- flower weigh anchor, to fiit with her white sails over the blue sea which parted them from Old England, not one soul faltered, not one went back ! The sad loss of their good Governor Carver, whose responsible place was taken by William Bradford, and the daily trials and hardships of that first long year, shook not their sturdy faith. Each day brought its absorbing task, and when, one morning in November, the sentry at the fort shouted, " Sail, ho ! " and the Fortune came sailing in by the Gurnet Nose, bringing the first news from the other side, they were ready with a return load of lumber, furs and sassafras for the Merchant Adventurers. Of this load, valued at ^500, Edward Winslow modestly writes in his letter to England : " Though it be not much, yet it will witness for us that we have not been idle, considering the smallness of our numbers this summer." Plymouth 327 Two years later, after a trying season of drought and famine, when, their corn ex- hausted, " ground-nuts, clams and eels " were their only food, they still gave thanks to God that He had given them of " the abundance of the seas, and of the treasures hid in the sand." When even the strongest men among them had grown weak for want of food, and their eyes were wearied with watching for a friendly sail, the good ship Anne was sighted in the offing. Dear relatives and friends brought them timely succor and new courage ; a sea- son of rejoicing followed, and many happy weddinofs were celebrated. In the Anne, perhaps, came the Old Colony record-book, in which was made the early re- gistration of births, marriages and deaths. The first of the laws therein enacted, dating from December 27, 1623, established trial by jury, as may still be seen in the quaint handwriting of these hard-working heroes. This book, together with the Charter of 1629, curious old papers concerning the division of cattle brought over in the Ckaj-iiy in 1624, ancient deeds signed by the Indians, the original own- ers of this our goodly heritage, and many another time-stained treasure, is now carefully 328 Plymouth preserved and gladly shown in the Registry of Deeds in the Court House. Looking to the north, beyond the town of Kingston, lying, with its sweet rose-gardens, on the pretty winding river named for that arch betrayer, Captain Jones, of the May- fioiuer, we see Duxbury and the green slopes of Captain's Hill, so named in honor of Myles Standish, who from the top of his gray stone monument still ofuards us in effisfy. Linger- ing near the fort and the guns he loved so well, he must often have looked this way, and admired the fine position this hill offered for a homestead. And as with years the colony grew larger, as children came to him and Barbara, and when his first Company of Standish Guards were in perfect training and could be relied upon to defend the colony at need, he bought out Winslow's share in the famous red cow, and led the way to the new fields he longed to conquer. There he was soon followed by John Alden and Priscilla, the Brewsters and other families, and at Marshfield, near by, the Winslows became their neighbors. So some eleven years after the landing came the first separation, which though not a wide one was a sore grief to their tender-hearted eovernor. Plymouth 329 Among the now rare gravestones of the seventeenth century on Burial Hill, we look in vain for the most familiar names : Elder Brewster died in 1644, lamented by all the col- ony ; Edward Winslow died at sea in 1655, and in the two years following this sad loss Myles Standish and Governor Bradford ended their labors. So closed the lives of these lead- ers of men. Descendants, brave, wise and strong like themselves, continued worthily the work they had nobly begun. From 1630, Plymouth held friendly inter- course with the Boston Bay Colony. The ter- rors of the war with Philip, treacherous son of the friendly Massasoit, had united her with the neiehborine colonies ao^ainst a common foe, and at length, after seventy-one years of nearly in- dependent existence, we find her, in 1692, absorbed, with some regret, into the royal province of Massachusetts, but still ready to take her part in public affairs. That the role played by her was a worthy one, the tablets about us testify. Heroes of the expedition against Louisbourg, in 1745, lie here ; more than a score of Plymouth patriots who served in the Revolution, and many a brave soldier who won his laurels in the War 330 Plymouth of 1861. Under this stone, with Its quaint urn and willow-branch, rests the famous naval hero of the Revolutionary war, Captain Simeon Sampson, whose cousin Deborah spun, dyed, and wove the cloth for the suit in which she left home to serve as a soldier. Their story, and that of many another hero and heroine now lying here, have been well told by Mrs. Jane Goodwin Austin. Beneath his symbolic scallop-shell we read the name of Elder Faunce, who knew the Pil- grims, and, living for ninety-nine years, formed an Important link between two centuries. The stone consecrated to the memory of the Rev. Chandler Robblns, who for nearly twoscore years toward the close of the last century gave his faithful services to the first parish, reminds us that at one time the town fathers found It advisable to request him " not to have more horses grazing on Burial Hill than shall be really necessary ! " Here, in old times, could be had a grand view of the shipping, come from the West In- dies and all parts of the world ; from here the news of many fatal shipwrecks had been spread through the town, to rouse willing help for suffering sailors ; here, too, no doubt, men's Plymouth 331 souls were often tempted to incur the fine of twenty shillings, the cost of "telling a lie about seeing a whale," in those strict days when a plain lie, if "pernicious," was taxed at half that price ! Old Father Time with his scythe and hour- glass — symbols of his power — rules here over seven generations ; but lingering while the set- ting sun illumines the harbor and the surround- ing hills with the same radiance that rejoiced the first comers, while Manomet glows with a deeper purple, and the twin lights of the Gur- net shine out, we may still feel in very deed that " The Pilgrim spirit has not fled." Turning from the story of Plymouth, as written on the lichen-covered headstones on Burial Hill, let us wend our way under the shady elms of Court Street to Pilgrim Hall, built in 1824 by the Pilgrim Society, instituted four years earlier. Here we may trace, in the many treasured reminders of their daily lives. the annals of those brave souls in whom " . . . persuasion and belief Had ripened into faith, and faith become A passionate intuition." 332 Plymouth On broad canvases are portrayed the tearful embarkation from Delfthaven, the landing on this cheerless, frozen shore. Here are hung charming pencil sketches of Scrooby and Aus- terfield, and many interesting portraits : Dr. Thatcher, the venerable secretary of the Pil- grim Society, and author of a charming his- tory of Plymouth ; the Rev, James Kendall, for nearly threescore years the beloved minis- ter of the First Church ; Gov. Edward Winslow and his son Josiah ; Gen. John Winslow, who by royal command in 1755 helped to drive from their homes the French Acadians ; Dea- con Ephraim Spooner, whose " lining out " of the old hymns formed an impressive part of " Anniversary Day " ; Daniel Webster, who lived in Marshfield, and whose glowing oration of 1820, in honor of the two hundredth anni- versary ^ of the landing of the Pilgrims, was epoch-making in Plymouth annals. Among the many priceless books and docu- ments here we find the lately acquired Specu- lum Europcs (1605) by Sir Edwin Sandys, the active friend of our Separatists in England , ' The illustratii)n shown on page 335 is from a pen-and-ink copy of a quaint old painting on glass from China, probably in 1S20. In that country a set of china with this design as decoration was made for this Plymouth celebration. 334 Plymouth two autographs of John Robinson render this volume of special interest. A facsimile of the Bradford manuscript also is here, and a Confu- tation of the Rheniists Translation, printed by Brewster in Leyden, in 1618. Among the old Bibles worn by hands seeking for guidance and comfort is one belonging to John Alden, dated 1620. Here also are a copy of Robert Cushman's memorable sermon on " The Dan- ger of Self-love," delivered by him in Plymouth in 1621 ; one of the seven precious original copies of Mottrfs Relation the journal writ- ten by Bradford and Winslow in 1620-21, and so promptly printed in London in 1622 ; one of the four copies of Eliot's Indian Bible (1685) ; the Patent of 162 1, granted our colo- nists by the New England Company, and the oldest state paper in the United States. A large copy of the seal of the colony, in hand- somely carved oak, reminds us that the original seal was stolen in the days of Andros. Its appropriate motto, " Patrum pietate ortum, filiorum virtute ser- vandum," may be found THE OLD COLONY SEAL. 33^ Plymouth used as a heading of the first PlymoiitJi Jour- nai, pubHshed by Nathaniel Coverly in 1785, of which one file is preserved in the library of rare old books. Here are the Original Re- cords of the Old Colony Club, founded in i 769, but dissolved four years later when party feel- ing ran high between the Whigs and Tories. Its worthy members first instituted the cele- bration of " Forefathers' Day," and here we may read the bill of fare of their first dinner, "dressed in the plainest manner," beginning with "a large baked Indian whortleberry pud- ding," " a dish of Succotash," " Clamms," etc. The Indian dishes, succotash and nokake, and the five parched corns which recall the time when their last pint of corn was divided among them, still form part of the "twenty-second" dinner of every faithful descendant ! Here the sword of the truculent Myles Stan- dish lies at rest, and beside it, in lighter vein, a bit of the quilt that belonged to his wife Rose, and a sampler skilfully embroidered by his daughter Lora. Between the ample armchairs in which Governor Carver and Elder Brewster must have pondered over many a weighty pro- blem of government for the people and by the people, is the closely woven little Dutch cradle Plymouth ?>Z7 in which Peregrine White, that most youthful of voyagers, was rocked to sleep. The large hole worn in the foot of the cradle suggests pleasantly that the rosy toes of the sturdy baby colonists made early for freedom ! Perhaps The fuller cradle. the tiny leathern ankle-ties, hardly four inches in length, which belonged to Josiah Winslow — this was long before they thought of making him governor — had a hand, or rather a foot, in that bombardment ! Near the shoes is a dainty salt-cellar of blue and white enamel, delicately painted with pink and yellow roses, suggestive of fine linen and pleasant hospitality. Here too are 338 Plymouth " The wheels where they spun In the pleasant light of the sun," those anxious, lonely housewives, waiting for their good men to return from dangerous ex- peditions in the forest or on the sea. Thus varied was the freight of the Mayfiower. As we walk through the lively main street of the town, we must stop to admire the fine gambrel roof of the old house where lived James Warren, that active patriot, who became pre- sident of the Provincial Congress, and whose wife, Mercy Otis Warren, wrote the " rousing word " which kindled many a heart in Re- volutionary days. The line of fine lindens just beyond, as they rustle in the cool sea- breeze, could whisper many a charming tale of lovely dames and stately men, of scarlet cloaks and powdered wigs they have watched pass by under their shading branches, of treasures of AN OLD ENGLISH SPINNINQ-WHEEL. Plymouth 339 old china and old silver, of blue tiles and claw- footed furniture, of Copley portraits now packed off to the great city, and of many changes come about since they came here as young trees from Nova Scotia, in a raisin-box. Overlooking the blue water stands the old Winslow house, the solid frame of which came from England in 1754. Under its spreading lindens, through the fine colonial doorway so Copyright by A. S. Burl.ank. THE DOTEN HOUSE, 1660. THE OLDEST HOUSE IN PLYMOUTH. beautifully carved, many distinguished guests have passed, and here Ralph Waldo Emerson was married to Lydia Jackson, who was born in the picturesque house just beyond, almost hidden in trees and vines. 340 Plymouth A drive toward the south will take us by- some of the oldest houses. From the one with a dyke in front, Adoniram Judson, the famous Baptist missionary, took his departure for Bur- mah. His devoted sister then vowed that no one should cross the threshold until his return, and the door-step was taken away. Grass grew over the pathway, and the front door remained closed, for he died at sea, in 1850. As we pass the handsome new building of the High School, it is good to remember, in this Plymouth of eight thousand inhabitants, paying thirty-four thousand dollars for last year's "schooling," that in 1672 it was decided that Plymouth's school, supported by the rents of her southerly common-lands, was entitled to £2)3^ the fishing excise from the Cape, offered to any town which would keep d^frcc colonial school, classical as well as elementary. And in that free school began an early struggle of the three R's aofainst Latin and Greek. From Plymouth went Nathaniel Brewster, a graduate of Harvard's first class of 1642, and the first of a long line of Plymouth students to enter Harvard. Past the blue Eel River, flowing gently through shining green meadows to the sea, we Plymouth 341 may drive along quiet roads in Plymouth Woods, under sweet pines and sturdy oaks, by the shore of many a calm pond, sparkling in its setting of white beach sand. We cross old Indian trails, perhaps, and skirt acre after acre of level cranberry-bogs, pink and white, like a sheet of delicate sprig-muslin, when in bloom, and bright with the crimson fruit in early autumn. In these woods in their season bloom sweet mayflowers, the rare rhodora, the sabbatia, sundew and corema, and there many another treasure may be found by those who know how to seek ! When these forests were first explored, an enterprising member of the Mayflower s crew, climbing a high tree to see how the land lay, saw shining before him a blue sheet of water which he took to be the ocean, and this was called after him " Billington's Sea." Following the shore of this lake, through the leafy paths of Morton's Park, we come upon the source of the famous Town Brook, which with its hon- orable record of two centuries' supply of ale- wives has always played an important part in the town's annals, helping to grind the Pil- grims' first grists in 1636, and now lending its busy aid in turning complicated machinery. 342 Plymouth In the fields on either side — the hunting- ofroLinds of the banished race who once re- joiced in their possession — are still found the beautifully worked Indian arrow-heads and hatchets ; here the smoke arose from their wig-- .;1^::fi'-*«*F^r>i:? PfiV'TiCl-' -^■'i; ^-h ^>^*r Ch; THE GRAVE OF DR. FRANCIS LE BARRAN, THE NAMELESS NOBLEMAN. warns ; here they often paddled past in their swift canoes, and here, perhaps, were shot the five deer that formed their offering in the first New England Thanksgiving. But the manifold charms of Plymouth and Plymouth 343 Plymouth Woods must be seen and felt on the soil whence they sprung ! So in the hope that the "Courteous Reader" to whom they are still unfamiliar may care to verify this truthful statement, we leave in brief and imperfect out- line this story of the Old Colony, whither " they wente weeping and carried precious seeds ; but they shall returne with joye and bring their sheaves." CAPE COD TOWNS FROM PROVINCETOWN TO FALMOUTH By KATHARINE LEE BATES CAPE COD," wrote Thoreau, "is the bared and bended arm of Massachu- setts ; the shoulder is at Buzzard's Bay ; the elbow, or crazy-bone, at Cape Mallebarre ; the wrist at Truro ; and the sandy fist at Province- town — behind which the State stands on her guard." This sandy fist curls toward the wrist in such fashion as to form a semicircular harbor, famous as the New World haven which first gave shelter to the Mayfioiver and her sea- worn company. On the 21st of November (by our modern reckoning), 1620, the Pilgrims, after their two bleak months of ocean, cast anchor here, rejoicing in the sight and smell of "oaks, pines, juniper, sassafras and other sweet wood." Here they signed their mem- 345 346 Cape Cod Towns orable compact, forming themselves into a " civil body politic " and covenanting with one another, as honest Englishmen, to " submit to such government and governors as we should by common consent agree to make and choose." Upon the adoption of this simple and signifi- cant constitution, the Pilgrim Fathers, still on board the MayJlowe7' in Provincetown harbor, proceeded to set in motion the machinery of their little republic, for " after this," wrote Bradford, "they chose, or rather confirmed, Mr. John Carver (a man godly and well ap- proved amongst them) their Governor for one year." That same day a scouting party went ashore and brought back a fragrant boatload of red cedar for firewood, with a goodly report of the place. These stout-hearted Pilgrims were not the first Europeans to set foot on Cape Cod. Legends of the Vikings which drift about the low white dunes are as uncertain as the shift- ing sands themselves, and the French and Florentine navigators who sailed along the North American coast in the first half of the sixteenth century may have done no more than sight this sickle of land between sea and bay, but there are numerous records of Fng- 348 Cape Cod Towns lish, French and Dutch visits within the last twenty years before the coming of the May- flower. It may be that no less a mariner than Sir Francis Drake was the first of the English to tread these shores, but that distinction is gen- erally allowed to Captain Bartholomew Gos- nold, who made harbor here in 1602 and was " so pestered with codfish " that he gave the Cape the name, "which," said Cotton Mather, " it will never lose till shoals of codfish be seen swimming upon the tops of its highest hills." Gosnold traded with the Indians for furs and sassafras root, and was followed the next year by Martin Pring, seeking a cargo of this latter commodity, then held precious in pharmacy. Within the next four years three French explorers touched at the Cape, and a French colony was projected, but came to nothing. The visit of Henry Hudson, too, left no traces. In 1614 that rover of land and sea, Captain John Smith, took a look at Cape Cod, which impressed him only as a " headland of hills of sand, overgrown with scrubby pines, hurts [huckleberries] and such trash, but an excellent harbor for all weathers." After Smith's departure. Hunt, his second in com- mand, enticed a group of Nauset Indians on 350 Cape Cod Towns shipboard, carried them off, and sold them into slavery at Malaga, Spain, for twenty pounds a man. As a consequence of this crime, the Indians grew suspicious and revengeful, but nevertheless an irregular trade was maintained with them by passing vessels, until the pesti- lence that raged among the red men of the region from 1616 to 16 19 interrupted com- munication. The Pilgrims tarried in Provincetown har- bor nearly a month. The compact had been signed, anchor dropped and the reconnoissance made on a Saturday. The Sunday following, the first Pilgrim Sabbath in America, was de- voutly kept with prayer and praise on board the Mayflower, but the next morning secular activities began. The men carried ashore the shallop which had been brought over in sec- tions between-decks and proceeded to put it together, while the women bundled up the soiled linen of the voyage and inaugurated the first New England Monday by a grand wash- ing on the beach. On Wednesday, Myles Standish mustered a little army of sixteen men, each armed with musket, sword and corselet, and led them gallantly up the wooded cape, " thorou boughes and bushes," nearly as Cape Cod Towns 351 far as the present town of Wellfleet. After two days the explorers returned with no worse injury than briar-scratched armor, bringing- word of game and water-springs, ploughed land and burial-mounds. William Bradford showed the noose of the deer-trap, a " very pretie devise," that had caught him by the leg, and two of the sturdiest Pilgrims bore, slung on a staff across their shoulders, a kettle of corn. As the few natives whom the party had met fled from them, the corn had been taken on credit from a buried hoard. The following- year that debt was scrupulously paid, but a custom had been established which still pre- vails with certain summer residents on the Cape, who are said to make a practice of leaving their grocery bills over until the next season. As soon as the shallop could be rioated, a larger expedition was sent by water along the south coast to seek a permanent settlement. Through wind and snow the Pilgrim Fathers made their way up to Pamet River, in Truro, the limit of the earlier journey. They did not succeed in agreeing upon a fit site for the colony, but they sought out the corn deposit and, breaking the frozen ground with their swords, secured ten bushels more of priceless 352 Cape Cod Towns seed for the springtime. On the return of the second expedition there was anxious discussion about the best course to pursue. Some were for setthng on the Cape and hving by the fish- eries, pointing out, to emphasize their argu- ments, the whales that sported every day about the anchored ship ; but the Pilgrims were of agricultural habit and tradition and had reason enough just then to be weary of the sea. The situation was critical. " The heart of winter and unseasonable weather," wrote Bradford, "was come upon us." The gradual slope of the beach made it always necessary to " wade a bow-shoot or two " in oroino- ashore from the Mayflower, and these icy foot-baths were largely responsible for the " vehement coughs " from which hardly one of the company was exempt. Once more, on the i6th of December, the shallop started forth to find a home for the Pilgrims. Ten colonists, including Carver, Bradford and Standish, together with a few men of the ship's crew, volunteered for this service. It was so cold that the sleety spray glazed doublet and jerkin "and made them many times like coats of iron." The voyagers landed within the present limits of Eastham or Orleans, where, hard by the shore, a camp was Cape Cod Towns 353 roughly barricaded. One day passed safely in exploration, but at dawn of the second, when, " after prayer," the English sat about their camp-fire at breakfast, " a great and strange cry " cut the mist, and on the instant Indian arrows, headed with deer-horn and eagles' claws, whizzed about their heads. But little Captain Standish was not to be caught napping. " Having a snaphance ready," he fired in direction of the war-whoop. His com- rades supported him manfully, their friends in the shallop, themselves beset, shouted encour- agement, and the savages, gliding back among the trees, melted into " the dark of the morn- ing." After this taste of Cape Cod courtesy, the Pilgrim Fathers can hardly be blamed for taking to their shallop again and plunging on, in a stiff gale, through the toppling waves, until, with broken rudder and mast split in three, they reached a refuge in the harbor of Plymouth. When the adventurers returned to the May- flower with glad tidings that a resting-place was found at last, the historian of the party, William Bradford, had to learn that during his absence his wife had fallen from the vessel's side and perished in those December 354 Cape Cod Towns waters. Three more of the colonists died in that first haven, and there httle Peregrine White began his earthly peregrinations. In view of all these occurrences, — the signing of the compact in Provincetown harbor, the first landing of the Pilgrims on the tip of Cape Cod, the explorations, the first deaths and the first birth, — it would seem that Provincetown is fairly entitled to a share of those historic hon- ors which are lavished, none too freely, but, perhaps, too exclusively, upon Plymouth. When the Mayjioiver sailed away, carrying William Bradford and his tablets, the beauti- ful harbor and its circlincr shores were left to a long period of obscurity. Fishers, traders and adventurers of many nations came and went on their several errands, but these visits left little trace. The Plymouth colonists, mean- while, did not forget their first landing-point, but returned sometimes, in the fishing season, for cod, bass and mackerel, always claiming full rights of ownership. This claim rested not only on their original brief occupation, but on formal purchase from the Indians, in 1654, or earlier, the payment being " 2 brasse kettles six coates twelve houes 1 2 axes 1 2 knives and a box." In process of time, as the 35^ Cape Cod Towns English settlers gradually pushed down the Cape, a few hovels and curing-sheds rose on the harbor shore, but the land was owned by Plymouth Colony until Massachusetts suc- ceeded to the title. These Province Lands were made a district, in the charge of Truro, in 1714, but in 1727 the "Precinct of Cape Cod " was set off from Truro, and estab- lished, under the name of Provincetown, as a separate township. It was even then merely a fishing-hamlet, with a fluctuating population, which by 1750 had almost dwindled away. In Revolutionary times, it had only a score of dwelling-houses, and its two hundred inhabit- ants were defenseless before the British, whose men-of-war rode proudly in the harbor. One of these, the Somerset, while chased by a French fleet on the Back Side, as the Atlantic coast of the Cape is called, struck on Peaked Hill bars, and the waves, taking part with the re- bels, flung the helpless hulk far up the beach. Stripped by "a plundering gang" from Pro- vincetown and Truro, the frigate lay at the mercy of the sands, and they gradually hid her even from memory ; but the strong gales and high tides of 1886 tore that burial-sheet aside, and brought the blackened timbers again to Cape Cod Towns 357 the light of day. The grim old ship, tormented by relic-hunters, peered out over the sea, look- ing from masthead to masthead for the Union Jack, and, disgusted with what she saw, dived once more under her sandy cover, where the beach-grass now grows over her. Since the Revolution, Provincetown has steadily progressed in numbers and prosperity, until to-day, with over four thousand five hundred inhabitants, it is the banner town of the Cape. During this period of develop- ment, the Province Lands, several thousand acres in extent, naturally became a subject of dispute. Old residents had fallen into a way of buying and selling the sites on which they had built homes and stores, as if the land were theirs in legal ownership. Five years ago, however, the General Court virtually limited State ownership to the waste tracts in the north and west of the township, leaving the squatters in possession of the harbor-front. " The released portion of the said lands," stated the Harbor and Land Commissioners in their report of 1893, "is about 955 acres and includes the whole inhabited part of the town of Provincetown." The present Provincetown is well worth a 358 Cape Cod Towns journey. From High Pole Hill, a bluff seventy feet high in the rear of the populated district, one gazes far out over blue waters, crossed with cloud-shadows and flecked with fishing- craft. Old sea-captains gather here with spy- glasses to make out the shipping ; bronzed sailor-boys lie in the sun and troll snatches of song ; young mothers of dark complexion and gay-colored dress croon lullabies, known in Lisbon and Fayal, over sick babies brought to the hilltop for the breezy air ; the very par- rot that a black-eyed urchin guards in a group of admiring playmates talks " Portugee." Leanine over the railinsf, one looks down the bushy slope of the blufT to the curious huddle of houses at its base. Out from the horse- shoe bend of shore, run thin tongues of wharf and jetty. Front Street follows the water- line, a seaport variety of outfitting stores and shops, mingled with hotels, fish-flakes, ship- yards and the like, backing on the beach, with the dwelling-houses opposite facing the harbor- view. Back Street copies the curve of Front, and the two are joined by queer, irregular little crossways, that take the abashed wayfarer close under people's windows and along the very borders of their gardens and poultry- Cape Cod Towns 159 yards. Althoucrh nearly all of the buildings stand on one or the other of these main streets, there are bunches and knots of houses in sheltered places, looking as if the blast had blown them into accidental nooks. In creneral WHARVES AT FROVINCETOWN. these houses are built close and low, tucked in under one another's elbows, but here and there an independent cottage thrusts its sharp- roofed defiance into the very face of the weather. Up and down the sandy knolls behind the 360 Cape Cod Towns streets straggle populous graveyards, where one may read the fortunes of Provincetown more impressively, if less precisely, than in the census reports. Where the goodly old Nathaniels and Shubaels and Abrahams and Jerushas rest, a certain decorum of green sod- ding and white headstone is maintained, de- spite the irreligious riot of the winds. The Catholic burial-ofround, too, is not uncared for in its Irish portion. Marble and granite monu- ments implore " Lord have mercy on the soul " of some Burke or Ryan or McCarty, but the Portuguese, wanderers from the Cape Verde Islands and the Azores, sleep the sleep of strangers, with no touch of tenderness or beauty about their dreary lodging. Only here and there a little Jacinto or Manuel or Antone has his short mound set about with fragments of clam-shell, as if in children's play. Some lots are enclosed, the black posts with rounded tops looking like monastic sentries, and a few headboards, with the painted name already rain-washed out of recognition, lean away from the wind. In the centre of this gaunt grave- yard, where the roaring Atlantic storms tear up even the coarse tufts of beach-grass, a great gray cross of wood, set in a hill of sand, Cape Cod Towns 361 spreads weather-beaten arms. The guardian- ship of the Church and the fehowship of the sea these Portuguese fisherfolk brought with them, and as yet America has given them nothing dearer. The Portuguese constitute a large proportion of the foreign element in Barnstable County, where nearly nine tenths of the people are of English descent. The protruding tip of Cape Cod easily catches such ocean drift as these Western Islanders, and they have made their way as far up the Cape as Falmouth, wlu-re they watch their chance to buy old homesteads at low rates. They are natural farmers and even in Harwich and Truro divide their labors be- tween sea and land. But it is in Province- town that these swart-faced strangers most do congregate, gardening wherever a garden is possible, tending the fish-weirs, working, when herring are plenty, in the canning factories, and almost monopolizing the fresh fishing in- dustry. Even those who are most thrifty, building homes and buying vessels, wear the look of aliens, and some, when their more active years are over, gather up their savings and return to the Azores ; but the raven-haired o-irls are beL>inning to listen to Yankee wooers, 362 Cape Cod Towns and the next century may see the process of amalgamation well under way. Already these new Pilgrims have tasted so much of the air of freedom as to wax a little restive under the authority of their fiery, devoted young priest, who upbraids them with his last expletive for their shortcomings as energetically as he aids them with his last dollar in their distress. In the general aspect of the port, it is as true to-day as when, in 1808, the townspeople petitioned for a suspension of the embargo, that their interest is " almost totally in fish and vessels." A substantial citizen keeps his boat as naturally as an inlander would keep his carriage. Any loiterer on the street can lend a hand with sweep-seine or jibstay, but the harnessing of a horse is a mystery known to few. In 1 819, there was but one horse owned in Provincetown, and that "an old, white one with one eye." In point of fact, however, the fortunes of Provincetown seem to demand, at present, some further support than the fisher- ies. It is believed that, by dint of capital, labor and irrigation, more could be gained from the soil, and that the advantages of the place as a summer resort might be developed. The whaling business has greatly declined Cape Cod Towns 3^3 since the discovery of petroleum, the mackerel have forsaken their old haunts, and even cod- fishing, in which Provincetown long stood sec- ond to Gloucester, is on the wane. Wharves and marine railways are falling into ruin, and the natives of the old Cape seek a subsistence PROVINCETOWN IN 1839. FROM AN OLD DRAWING. in Western ranches and crowded cities, leaving their diminished home industries to the immi- grants. Still twoscore or so of vessels go to the Grand Banks, and as many more engage in the fresh fishing. Emulous tales do these fishermen tell of quick trips and large catches, for example the clipper Julia Costa, under a Portuguese skipper, which set sail at six in the morning for fishing-grounds about fifteen miles 364 Cape Cod Towns northeast of Highland Light, took fifteen thou- sand pounds of cod, and arrived at her Boston moorings an hour before midnight. But the "fish-stories" told in Provincetown are more often legends of the past, before the heroic days of whaling went out with the invention of the explosive bomb lance, — legends of for- tunes made in oil and ambergris, of hair-breadth escapes from the infuriated monsters, and es- pecially of Moby Dick, the veteran whale who, off the coast of Chili, defied mankind until the whale-gun rolled him over at last, with twenty- three old harpoons rusted in his body. The foreign element in Provincetown is not all Portuguese. There is a sprinkling of many nationalities, especially Irish, and, more num- erous yet, English and Scotch from the Brit- ish provinces, while sailor-feet from all over the globe tread the long plank-walk of Front Street. This famous walk was built, after much wrangling, from the town's share of the Surplus Revenue distributed by Andrew Jack- son, and the story goes that the more stiff- necked opponents of this extravagance refused their lifetimes long to step upon the planks, and plodded indignantly through the sandy middle of the road. Upon this chief thorough- Cape Cod Towns 365 fare stand several churches, looking seaward. Sailors in these waters used to steer by the meeting-house steeples, which are frequent all along the Cape. Some of those early churches now struggle on with meagre congregations, and a few are abandoned, the wind whistling through the empty belfries. Provincetown has a record of ancient strife between the Orthodox and the Methodists. The established sect re- sented the intrusion of the new doctrine to such a degree that they made a bonfire of the timber designed for the Methodist building. The heretics effectively retaliated by securing the key to the Orthodox meeting-house, lock- ing out the astonished owners, and taking permanent possession, triumphantly singing Methodist hymns to the Orthodox bass-viol. It was thirty-two years before the discomfited Orthodox rallied sufficiently to build them- selves another church. Journeying from Provincetown, "perched out on a crest of alluvial sand," up the wrist of the Cape, one sees the land a-making. At first the loose sand drifts like snow. Then the coarse marsh-grasses begin to bind and hold it, low bushes mat their roots about it, and planted tracts of pitch-pine give the shifting 366 Cape Cod Towns waste a real stability. The Pilgrims found, they said, — but perhaps there was a Canaan dazzle in their eyes, — their landing-place well wooded and the soil "a spit's depth, excellent black earth," But now all sods and garden- ground must be brought from a distance, and a mulberry or a sycamore, even the most stunted apple-tree that squats and cowers from the wind, is a proud possession. When President Dwight of Yale rode through Truro into Pro- vincetown a century ago, he was amazed at the sterility and bleak desolation of the landscape, half hidden as it was by " the tempestuous tossing of the clouds of sand." He was told that the inhabitants were required by law to plant every April bunches of beach-grass to keep the sand from blowing. The national government, stirred by the danger to the harbor, afterwards took the matter in hand. Between 1826 and 1838, twenty-eight thousand dollars were expended in an attempt to strengthen the harbor shores by beach-grass. Of late Massachusetts has become aroused to the des- olate condition of her Province Lands, and is making a determined effort to redeem them by the planting of trees and by other restorative measures. These blowing sand-dunes have, Cape Cod Towns 367 however, a strange beauty of their own, and the color effects in autumn, given by the low and ragged brush, are of the warmest. " It was like the richest rug imaginable," wrote Tho- reau, " spread over an uneven surface; no damask nor velvet, nor Tyrian dye or stuffs, nor the work of any loom, could ever match it. There was the incredibly bright red of the Huckleberry, and the reddish brown of the Bayberry, mingled with the bright and living green of small Pitch-Pines, and also the duller green of the Bayberry, Boxberry and Plum, the yellowish green of the Shrub Oaks, and the various golden and yellow and fawn-colored tints of the Birch and Maple and Aspen, — each making its own figure, and, in the midst, the few yellow sand-slides on the sides of the hills looked like the white floor seen through rents in the rug." The sand has dealt most unkindly of all with Truro, choking up her harbor, from which a fine fleet of mackerel vessels used to sail. No longer is her rollicking fishing-song, apparently an inheritance from Old England, lifted on the morning breeze : " Up jumped the mackerel. With his striped back — Says he, reef in the mains'l, and haul on the tack, For it 's windy weather, It 's stormy weather. And when the wind blows pipe all hands together — For, upon my word, it 's windy weather. 368 Cape Cod Towns " Up jumped the cod, With his chuckle head — And jumped into the main chains to heave at the lead, — For it 's windy weather," etc. This town, the Indian Pamet, was formall)' settled in 1709 by a few EngHsh purchasers from Eastham, having been occupied earHer only by irresponsible fishermen and traders. The new planters took hold with energy, wag- ing war against blackbirds and crows, wolves and foxes, for the protection of their little wealth in corn and cattle, while none the less they dug clams, fished by line and net and watched from their lookouts for offshore whales. The Cape plumes itself not a little upon its early proficiency in whaling. In 1690, one Ichabod Paddock, whose name might so easily have been Haddock, went from Yarmouth to Nantucket " to instruct the people in the art of killing whales in boats from the shore." And when the sea-monster, thus maltreated, withdrew from its New England haunts, the daring whalemen built ships and followed, cruising the Atlantic and Pacific, even the Arc- tic and Antarctic oceans. But the Revolution put a check on all our maritime enterprises. The Truro fishermen, like the rest, laid by Cape Cod Towns 369 their harpoons, and melted up their mackerel leads for bullets. From one village of twenty- three houses, twenty-eight men gave up their lives for liberty. In religion, too, Truro had the courage of her convictions, building the first Methodist meeting-house on the Cape, the second in New England. The cardinal temptation of Cape Cod is Sunday fishing, and Truro righteousness was never put more sharply to the pinch than in 1834, when a pro- digious school of blackfish appeared off Great Hollow one autumnal Sabbath morning. A number of Truro fishermen, from the Grand Banks and elsewhere, were on their way home in boats from Provincetown, when the shining shoulders of hundreds of the great fish were seen moving through the waves. With for- tunes in full view, a goodly number of these men shifted into boats which rowed soberly for their destination, while the rest, with eager outcry, rounded up the school, and drove the frightened creatures, with shouts and blows from the oars, like sheep upon the beach. Church-members who took part in the wild chase were brought to trial, but a lurking sym- pathy in the hearts of their judges saved them from actual expulsion. 3/0 Cape Cod Towns This befell within the period of Truro's highest prosperity. From 1830 to 1855 the wharves were crowded with sloops and schoon- ers, a shipyard was kept busy, and salt was made all along the shore. At the middle of the century, the town had over two thousand inhabitants, but the number has now fallen off by some three fifths. The " turtle-like sheds of the salt-works," which Thoreau noted, have been long since broken up and sold for lumber. There is weir-fishing still, supplying fresh fish for market and bait for the fishing-fleets of Provincetown and Gloucester. Rods of the black netting may be seen spread over the poverty-grass to dry. Although the sand of Cape Cod is in some places three hundred feet deep, there is be- lieved to be a backbone of diluvian rock. There is a clay vein, too, which slants across the Cape and crops out at Truro in the so-called Clay Pounds, now crowned by Highland Light, shining two hundred feet above the ocean. This hill of clay thus renders a sovereign service to that dangerous stretch of navigation. It must be borne in mind that Cape Cod runs out straight into the Atlantic for twoscore miles, by the south measurement, and then. Z'i2 Cape Cod Towns abruptly turning", juts up another forty to the north. The shifty sand-bars of the Back Side have caught, twisted and broken the hulls of innumerable craft. One gale of wind wrecked eighteen vessels between Race Point, at the extremity of the Cape, and Highland Light. The average width of our crooked peninsula is six miles, but at Truro it narrows to half that distance. Across this strip the storms whirl the flinty sand, until the humblest cot- tage may boast of ground-glass window-panes. The coast outline is ever changing and the restless dunes show the fantastic carvings of the wind. The houses cuddle down into the wavy hollows, with driftwood stacked at their back doors for fuel, and with worn-out fish- nets stretched about the chicken-yards. Here and there a pine-tree abandons all attempt at keeping up appearances and lies flat before the blast. The ploughed fields are as white with sand as so many squares of beach, and the sea-tane is strong in the air. Accustomed, before their harbor failed them, to depend chiefly upon the sea for subsistence, the people of Truro now find it no easy matter to wrest a living from what they have of land. Every- thing is turned to account, from turnips to 374 Cape Cod Towns mayflowers. Along those sand-pits of roads, bordered with thick beds of pink-belled bear- berries, or where the dwarfish pines, their wizened branches hung with gray tags of moss, yellow the knolls, are gathered large quantities of sweetest, pinkest arbutus for the Boston market. Wellfleet, which drew off from Eastham in 1 763, has also fallen on evil days. Perhaps the fishermen have overreached themselves with the greedy seines. There is high contro- versy on this point between line-fishers and weir-fishers, but the fact stands that fish are growing scarce. Wellfleet had once her hun- dred vessels at the Banks, her whaling-schoon- ers, built in her own yards from her own timber, and beds of oysters much prized by city pal- ates. There was a time when forty or fifty sail were busy every season transporting Well- fleet shell-fish to Boston. " As happy as a clam " might then have been the device of Wellfleet heraldry. But suddenly the oyster died and, although the beds have been planted anew, the ancient fame has not been fully re- gained. A town, too, many of whose citizens spent more than half their lives on shipboard, was sure to suffer from our wars, peculiarly Cape Cod Towns 375 disastrous to seafaring pursuits. Early in the Revolution, Wellfleet was constrained to peti- tion for an abatement of her war-tax, stating that her whale-fishery, by which nine tenths of her people lived, was entirely shut off by British gunboats, and that the shell-fish industries, on which the remaining tenth depended, was equally at a standstill. In this distress, as again in the Civil War, Cape Cod sailors took to privateering and made a memorable record, Wellfleet, like Truro, has lessened more than one half in population since 1850, but her shell roads are better than the sand- ruts of her neighbor, and bicyclists and other summer visitors are beginning to find her out. She has her own melancholy charm of barren- ness and desolation quite as truly as she has her characteristic dainties of quahaug pie and fried-quahaug cakes. The place abounds in dim old stories, from the colonial legend of the minister's deformed child, done to death by a dose from its father's hand, that child whose misshapen little ghost still flits, on moonlight nights, about a certain rosebush, to the many- versioned tale of the buccaneer, ever and anon seen prowling about that point on the Back Side where Sam Bellamy's pirate-ship was cast 376 Cape Cod Towns away, and stooping to gather the coins flung" up to him by the skeleton hands of his drowned shipmates. A volume would not suffice for the stories of these Cape towns. Their very calendar is kept by storms : as the Magee storm of December, 1778, when the government brig General Ai^nold, commanded by Captain James Magee, went down ; or the Mason and Slidell storm of 1862, ^^' h e n the Southern emissaries were brouofht from Fort Warren to Pro- vi nee town, and there, amidst the • ■ " protest of the ele- ments, yielded up to the British stQ^Ta^rRtnaldo; or «2iiflBk the pitiless October BISHOP AND CLERK LIGHT, HYANNIS. ^^J^ ^^ ^ g^ ^ ^ ^^^j^^^ from Truro alone forty-seven men were swal- lowed by the sea. The quiet little town of Eastham, originally " Nawsett," settled in 1646, only seven years after the three pioneers, Barnstable, Sandwich Cape Cod Towns 2)11 and Yarmouth, has shared the hard fortunes of the lower Cape. With a remnant of less than five hundred inhabitants, it finds, under the present stress, a resource in asparagus, shipping a carload or two to Boston every morning in the season. To this land industry the ocean consents to contribute, the soil being dressed for " sparrowgrass " with seaweed and shells. But no hardship can deprive Eastham of its history. After the encounter between the Pil- grims and Indians here in 1620, the place was not visited again until the following July, when Governor Bradford sent from Plymouth a boatload of ten men to recover that young scapegrace, John Billington. This boy, whose father, ten years after, was hanged by the col- onists for murder, had come near blowing up the Mciyfiotvcr, in Provincetown harbor, by shooting off a fowling-piece in her cabin, close by an open keg of powder, and, later, must needs lose himself in Plymouth woods. He had wandered into the territory of the Nausets, who, althoueh this was the tribe which had suffered from Hunt's perfidy, restored the lad unharmed to the English. The Nausets fur- ther proved their friendliness by supplying the Pilgrims, in the starving time of 1622, with 37' Cape Cod Towns stores of corn and beans. But the following year, suspecting an Indian plot against the colonists, Myles Standish, that " little chimney soon on fire," appeared upon the Cape in full panoply of war, executed certain of the alleged conspirators and so terrified the rest that many fled to the marshes and miserably perished. The traveller up the Cape notices still that Eastham has more of a land look than the lower towns. The soil is darker, small stones appear, and the trees, although still twisted to left and right, as if to dodge a blow, are larger. The Indians had maize-fields there and the site seemed so promising to the Pilgrims that talk sprang up in the early forties of trans- ferring the Plymouth colony thither. As a com- promise, several of the old-comers obtained a grant of the Nauset land, and established a branch settlement, soon incorporated as a town- OLD WINDMILL, EASTHAM. Cape Cod Towns 379 ship. Promptly arose their meeting-house, twenty feet square, with port-holes and a thatch. They secured a full congregation by absence penalties of ten shillings, a flogging or the stocks. One of these sturdy fathers in the faith. Deacon Doane, is said to have lived to the patriarchal age of one hundred and ten, rounding life's circle so completely that at the end, as at the beginning, he was helplessly rocked in a cradle. Thoreau was amused over a provision made by the town of Eastham in 1662, that " a part of every whale cast on shore be appropriated for the support of the ministry," and drew a fancy-picture of the old parsons sitting on the sand-hills in the storms, anxiously watching for their salaries to be rolled ashore over the bars of the Back Side. One of these worthies, Rev. Samuel Treat, whose oratory outroared the stormy surf, shares with Richard Bourne, of Sandwich, the memory of a true pastoral care for the Cape Indians. He was, in re- turn, so well beloved, that, on his death, his wild converts dug a long passage through the remarkably deep snowfall of the time, and bore him on their shoulders down this white archway to his grave. The Revolutionary War 380 Cape Cod Towns was a heavy drain on the resources of the staunch Httle town, but, with the restoration of peace, whaHng and all kinds of deep-sea fishing were resumed, and a tide of prosperity set in. Salt-works were established, and pre- sently Eastham was able to afford such luxuries as a pulpit cushion and a singing-school. Orleans, set off in 1797 from the southerly portion of Eastham, has an old-fashioned quaintness that is better than business pros- perity. Sand has partially closed the harbors, and the population has been dwindling for the past half-century, but the ocean still serves old neighbors as it can with quahaugs and the seaweed, now collected for paper-making. The distinction of being the terminus of the French Atlantic Cable fromi Brest is in keeping with the name Orleans — a unique instance of a for- eign title among these old Cape towns. The early settlers put by the melodious I ndian words, Succanessett, Mattacheeset, and the rest, and substituted the dear home names from Devon, Cornwall, Norfolk and Kent. The christening of Brewster, Bourne and Dennis honored sev- erally the Pilgrim elder, the Sandwich friend of the Indians and a Yarmouth pastor ; but these are of comparatively recent date. As Well- Cape Cod Towns 381 fleet and Orleans have been cut, on north and south, out of the original Eastham, so were Harwich, Chatham, Dennis, Brewster, once "within the liberties of Yarmouth." The history of Yarmouth, too, is so closely allied to the histories of Barnstable and of Sandwich, with her daughter Bourne, that the story of all these may be told as one. These three initial settlements on the Cape were recognized as townships in 1639. From the outset, the difference in their locations im- posed upon them different tasks. Yarmouth, the elbow town of the Cape, bore the brunt of wind and wave ; Sandwich kept the border, notably in King Philip's War, when she guarded the faithful Cape Indians from temptation and received for safe harborage English refugees from the ravaged districts ; and Barnstable, the aristocratic sister of the group, made traciitions, set examples and produced the Otis family. With Old Yarmouth, the Cape widens. No longer do householders, as at Truro, own land in strips from shore to shore. The soil, too, deepens, and the cows need not with hungry noses brush away the drifted sand to find the grass. On the Back Side is no marked change in aspect. Still pine grove after pine grove 382 Cape Cod Towns adds flavor to the salt air, and where the carpet of needles is trodden through, gleam patches of white sand. The strange reap- pearance of the Somerset is out-miracled in Old Ship Harbor, where, in 1863, long after the significance of the name had been for- gotten, the hull of the Sparroiu-Haiu k, wrecked there in 1626, on her way from London to Virginia, rose again to view. This portion of the Cape is in excellent repute with pleasure- seekers, and the seaside cottage is ubiquitous, especially in beautiful Chatham, whose ever- changing shore takes the wildest raging of the surf. Harwich, which has gone through the regular stages of whaling, codding, mackerel- fishing and salt-making, cultivates in turn the summer boarder, but somewhat quizzically. Retired sea-captains are not easily overawed even by golf-sticks, and retired sea-captains, in Harwich, are as thick as cranberries. Snuff- ing the brine, they pace their porches like so many quarter-decks and delight their auditors and themselves with marvellous recitals. The Cape has not proved friendly to manufactures in general. Salt-works and glass-works have come to naught, — but the spinning of sea- yarns is a perennial industry. 384 Cape Cod Towns Many of the summer guests prefer the north side of the Cape, where fogs are less frequent, or where, in ancient Indian parlance, old Maus- hope smokes his pipe less often. Such find in Brewster and Dennis no less delightful colonies of ancient ship-masters, living easily off their sea-hoards. In 1837 that little town of Dennis claimed no fewer than one hundred and fifty skippers sailing from various American ports, and in 1850 it was said that more sea-captains went on foreign voyages from Brewster than from any other place in the United States. Often their wives sailed with them and had thereafter something wider than village gossip to bring to the quilting- and the sewing-circle. It was a great day for the children in the vil- lage when a sea-captain came home. From door to door went his frank sailor-gifts, jars of Chinese sweetmeats, shimmering Indian stuffs, tamarinds, cocoanuts, parrots, fans of gay feather, boxes of spicy wood, glowing corals, and such great, whispering shells as Cape Cod beaches never knew. It was a hospitable and merry time, given to savory suppers, picnic clambakes, and all manner of neighborly good-cheer. Even the common dread made for a closer sympathy. Any Cape Cod Towns 385 woman, going softly to her neighbor to break the news of the husband lost in Arctic ice, might in some dark hour drop her head upon that neighbor's shoulder in hearing of a son drowned off the Banks or slain by South Sea Islanders. The old town of Yarmouth, dozing thus among children already gray, has many a thing to dream about, when the surf is loud. She remembers the terrible gale of 1635, in which the Thacher family were wrecked upon the island that since has borne their name, the March snow-storm that destroyed the three East Indiamen from Salem, the stranding of the English Jason, and many a tragedy more. Along that treacherous Back Side, lighthouse towers are now closely set, and well-equipped, w^ell-manned life-savino- stations have succeeded the rude Charity Houses, the fireplace, wood and matches, straw pallet, and signal-pole which used to give what succor they might to hapless mariners. The old volunteer coast- guard, which rarely failed to pace the beach in storms, is now replaced by a regular patrol, carrying lanterns and red hand-lights and thoroughly drilled in the use of shot-line and breeches-buoy. But still the fierce-blowing 386 Cape Cod Towns sand cuts their faces to bleedincr and still the furious surf makes playthings of their life- boats, so that manhood has no less heroic opportunity than in the earlier days. The crew at one of these stations, after an exposure of twelve hours on the wintry beach, failed LIFE-SAVING STATION AT WELLFLEET. in every effort to launch the surf-boat and had to see the rescue they should have made effected by a crew of fishermen volunteers. The keeper brooded over his disgrace and the following winter wiped out what is known upon the Cape as the "goading slur" by a 388 Cape Cod Towns desperate launching in a surf that beat the Hfe from his body. Ever since the day of the Pilgrims, who made the suggestion, and of George Washing- ton, who furthered the project, there has been talk of a Cape Cod canal to expedite traffic and avert disaster. A channel between East- ham and Orleans was once forced by the sea, and various routes through Yarmouth, Barn- stable and Sandwich have been surveyed, and charters granted, but ships still round Race Point. The railroad, however, which was built by slow stages down the Cape and reached Provincetown only a quarter of a century since, has facilitated travel, doing away both with the red-and-yellow mail-coach, which used, a hundred years ago, to clatter through to Bos- ton in two glorious days, and with the packet service of jolly memory. Yarmouth and Barn- stable were sharp rivals in these packet trips, Barnstable putting her victories into verse : " The Co7nmodore Htdl she sails so dull She makes her crew look sour ; The Eagle Flight she is out of sight Less than a half an hour. But the bold old Emerald takes delight To beat the Commodo7'e and the Flight.'' Cape Cod Towns 589 Barnstable has pursued from the outset a course of modest prosperity. She does not ask too much of fortune. If her census-roll has gained only five in the last de- cade, that is bet- ter than losing, as most of the Cape towns have done, and, even so, her numbers rank next to Pro- vincetown. How hurnble were the beginnings of this sedate and gracious county seat may be learned from the letter of an early citizen, declining Governor Winslow's appoint- ment to lead an expedition against the Dutch. This quiet colonist, who commanded the Ply- mouth forces in King Philip's War, pleads his domestic cares : " My wife, as is well known to the whole town, is not only a weak woman, and has been so all along, but now, BARNSTABLE INN. 390 Cape Cod Towns by reason of age, being sixty-seven years and upwards, and nature decaying, so her iUness grows more strongly upon her. Never a day passes but she is forced to rise at break of day, or before. She cannot lie for want of breath. And when she is up, she cannot light a pipe of tobacco, but it must be lighted for her. And she has never a maid. That day your letter came to my hands, my maid's year being out, she went away, and I cannot get or hear of another. And then in regard of my occa- sions abroad, for the tending and looking after all my creatures, the fetching home my hay, that is yet at the place where it grew, getting of wood, going to mill, and for the performing all other family occasions, I have now but a small Indian boy about thirteen years of age, to help me. Sir, I can truly say that I do not in the least waive the business out of an effeminate or dastardly spirit, but am as freely willing to serve my King and my country as any man whatsoever, in what I am capable and fitted for, but do not understand that a man is so called to serve his country with the inevitable ruin and destruc- tion of his own family." An " effeminate or dastardly spirit " would indeed be a novelty in the birthplace of James Otis. But it was not only in face of the Indian and the redcoat that these three old towns showed firm courage. To their glory be it re- membered that they withstood the persecutor and bluntly refused to enforce the laws against heresy, so that a special officer had to be sent by Plymouth Court to hunt out and oppress Cape Cod Towns 391 the Quakers. Under his petty tyrannies, the faith of the Friends gained many converts, and Quakerism became permanently estabhshed on the Cape. These upper towns have never depended on the sea as exclusively as those below, and hence the decline of the fisheries has been less disastrous to them. They need industries to hold their young people at home, but the ma- rine manufacture of salt by solar evaporation, the discovery of a Dennis sea-captain, has had its day, and the once famous Sandwich glass- works are now idle. Sheep-raising and cattle- raisinor were lone since abandoned, but while the New England Thanksgiving lasts, cran- berry culture bids fair to yield an honest profit. As early as 1677, Massachusetts presented Charles II. (put out of humor by the pine- tree shilling) with three thousand codfish, two hogsheads of samp and ten barrels of cran- berries. These last are still good enough for a better king than the Merry Monarch, and cranberry-picking is one of the most pic- turesque sights on the modern Cape. Hun- dreds of pickers, gathering by hand or with the newly invented machines, move over a bog in ordered companies. The " summer 392 Cape Cod Towns folks" flock to the fun, and Portuguese, Ital- ians, Swedes, Poles, Finns, Russians, troop down from Boston and over from New Bed- ford for the brief cranberry season, or they may come earlier to join the blueberry-pickers that dot the August hills. The bogs are easily made from the wastes of swamp, which are drained, sanded, planted and given three years to grow a solid mat of vines. The crop from a few acres brings dollars enough to carry the thrifty Cape Codder through the year. Rents are of the lowest, and the shrewd old seaman who tends his own garden, salts his own pork, raises his own chickens, milks his own cow and occasionally " goes a-fishin','' while his wife cooks and sews, and " ties tags " for pin-money, has no heavy bills to meet. There is so little actual poverty in these towns that the poorhouse is often rented. Even Mashpee, once the Indian reservation, but now a little township peopled by half- breeds, mulattoes and a sprinkling of whites, grows tidier and more capable every year. The aborigines of Cape Cod have left slight traces save the melodious names that cling to bay and creek. Arrow-heads are scattered about, and now and then the plough turns up one of Cape Cod Towns 393 the clam-shell hoes with which the Nausets used to till their maize-fields. The Praying Indians of the Cape deserve our memory, for they were always faithful to their English neio-hbors. When the first regiment was raised in Barnstable County for the Revolutionary War, twenty-two Mashpees enlisted, of whom but one came home. A Praying Indian of Yarmouth has won a place in New England song, — Nauhaught the Deacon, who, hunger- pinched, restored the tempting purse of gold to the Wellfleet skipper and received a tithe " as an honest man." The beauty of the upper Cape, culminating in the lovely town of Falmouth, is largely rural and sylvan. A system of dyking has, within the last fifty years, converted much of the salt marsh to good, fresh meadow, and, from Or- leans up, the look of the country is more and more aofricultural. Portions of Yarmouth are well wooded, and in Barnstable, Sandwich and Falmouth are depths of forest where the fox and the deer run wild. The wolf alone has been exterminated, and that with no small trouble, the Cape finally proposing, after grisly heads had been nailed on all her meeting- houses, to build a high fence along her upper 394 Cape Cod Towns border and shut the wolves out. But Ply- mouth and Wareham objected, from their side of the question, to having the wolves shut in, and this ingenious scheme had to be abandoned. These woodlands are dotted in profusion with silvery ponds, which the Fish Commission at Wood's Holl keeps well stocked. Often the north side, as in Sand- wich, is skirted by long stretches of unre- claimed marsh, over which the heron flaps, with the distinguished air of an old resident, and from which the sweet whistle of the marsh quail answers the " Bob White " of the woods. There is plenty of rock in this land- scape, the backbone of the Cape jutting through. Barnstable proudly exhibits four hundred feet of wall, two feet in width, wrought from a sinsfle mass of orranite found within her limits. Falmouth arbutus grows pinkest about the base of a big boulder known as City Rock, and a field of tumbled stones upon her Quisset road is accounted for on the hypothesis that here the Devil, flying with his burden over to Nantucket, "broke his apron-string." The trees, too, are of goodly size and stand erect. Elms, silver-leaf poplars, balm of Gileads, great sycamores, spotted with iron-rust lichen. 39^ Cape Cod Towns and willows, lemon yellow in the sun, shade the waysides. Golden-winged woodpeckers and red-shouldered blackbirds dart to and fro, while the abundance of jaunty martin-houses shows that Cape Cod hospitality is not limited to the human. The quiet, white homesteads, with green blinds, broad porches and sometimes a cupola for the sea-view, stand in a sweet tranquillity and dignity that should abash the showy sum- mer residence. But these old-fashioned homes keep up with the times. Against the well- sweep leans the bicycle. The dooryards are blue with myrtle, or pink with rose-bushes, or gay with waving daffodils. Old age is in fashion on the Cape. When twilight fades, the passer-by sees gathered about the early evening lamp the white heads of those whose " chores " are done. And though death comes at last, the cemeteries are so tenderly kept that the grave is robbed of half its dread. Even in the oldest burial-grounds, where the worn, scarred stones lean with the privilege of age, the staring death's-heads are cozily muffled in moss, and " Patience, wife of Experience," sleeps under a coverlet of heartsease. All the way from Provincetown to Falmouth 39^ Cape Cod Towns are certain briny signals, — a ship's figure- head, marble steps whose stone was washed ashore as wreckage, lobster-pots, herring-nets, conch-shells set on lintels, a discontented polar bear pacing a stout-paled yard, ruftiing cocka- toos, boats converted into fiower-boxes, whales' vertebrae displayed for ornament, garden-beds marked out with scallop-shells, ever)'where the ship-shape look, the sailor's handy rig, and everywhere the codfish used for weathercocks. In Barnstable court-house a mammoth cod is suspended from the ceiling. Vistas of ocean outlook, too, from under arches of green branches, flash upon the eye, the salty flavor is not lost in woodland fragrances, and the roll- ing hills and wavy pastures take their model from the sea. Of the old-timey features of the Cape, no one is more impressive than the witch-like windmill with its peaked cap, outspread arms and slanting broomstick, reminding us that the Pilerims came from Holland. Some of these antique mills have been bought by summer residents and moved to their estates for curios- ities, but the one at Orleans was in use as late as 1892, taking its profitable toll of two quarts out of the bushel. 400 Cape Cod Towns The general history of Fahiiouth but re- peats the story of her sister towns. The first settlers are believed to have come in boats from Barnstable, in 1660. They encamped for the niofht amonor the flaofs of Consider Hatch's Pond, where a child was born and, in recogni- tion of the rushes that sang his earliest lullaby, named Moses. The town was duly incorporated in 1686, next after Eastham, and has steadfastly stood for piety, wisdom and patriotism. She admitted the Quakers, and if one of her dea- cons held a negro slave, as colonial deacons often did, poor Cuffee was at least brought to the communion table. It is Truro that con- tains " Pomp's Lot," where the stolen African, with loaf of bread and jug of water at his feet for sustenance on his new journey, escaped slavery by hanging. As for learning, it was Sandwich Academy which the Cape towns held in awe, but our Falmouth men, like the rest, half sailor, half farmer and all theolop^ian, had a genuine culture, born of keen-eyed voyaging and of lonely thought, that kept the air about them tinoflincr with intelliorence. When it comes to war stories, if Provincetown, from her end of the Cape, can tell of her boy in blue that went down with the CiLinberlaud, 402 Cape Cod Towns and her naval captain at Manila, Falmouth can recall that twice she was bombarded by the British and twice defended by the valor of her sons, and when the Civil War broke out, with the larger share of her able-bodied men at sea, she yet sent more than her quota of soldiers to the front. Within the last quarter-century, Falmouth has entered on new activities, largely due to the increasing fame of Buzzard's Bay as a summer resort. The story goes that the town had all gone to sleep, but somebody woke one day and painted his front fence, and forth- with his neighbors, not to be outdone, painted theirs, and their houses too, and the new era came in with a rush. But whatever good fort- une the future has in store, Paul Revere's bell, that sounds from her central steeple, will hold Falmouth true to her traditions ; for these Cape towns, simple as their record is, have worked out on unconsciously heroic lines the essential principles of a God-fearing, self-re- specting democracy. i M i ^ *-!i' 1 m^ 1 ^ DEERFIELD OLD POCUMTUCK VALLEY By GEORGE SHELDON TO every one familiar with the history of the old Bay State, the name of Deerfield naturally brings to mind two diverse pictures : one, the giant trees of the primeval forest un- der whose sombre shade the white-haired Eliot prayed, and the sluggish stream beside whose banks he gathered its roving denizens for a test of civilization ; the other, that scene of woe and desolation, when, under a wintry sky, the glare of burning houses lighted up a wide expanse of snow, shaded by dark columns of wavering smoke, and splashed here and there with red. The first picture suggests possibilities, the second results. The connect- ing link between the two is the fact that out of the labors of Eliot on the river Charles 403 404 Deerfield grew directly the settlement of the English on the Pocumtuck. Back of all was the interest in the newly dis- covered heathen, which sent currents of gold from England across the seas to the Indian missions. Of all these that of the Apostle Eliot was the head and front. His first attempt, at Newton, was a failure, from its proximity to a Christian town. On his petition, the General Court granted him a tract in the wilderness where he and the uncontaminated native could come face to face with the God of Nature. This tract was claimed by the town of Dedham, and, after a successful legfal contest, the General Court gave the claimant in lieu of it the right to select eight thousand acres in any unoccu- pied part of the colony. After wide search this grant was laid out on Pocumtuck River, and the selection was ratified by the Court, October 1 1, 1665. This power, however, was only leave to pur- chase of the native owners. The laws recog- nized the rights of the Indians to the soil, and no Englishman was allowed to buy or even re- ceive as a gift any land from an Indian without leave of the General Court. The oft-repeated slander that the fair purchase of land from the 4o6 Deerfield Indians was peculiar to William Penn, can be refuted in general by a study of our early statute books, and in particular by an examin- ation of the original deeds from the Indians, nowMU our Memorial Hall. It will be seen by these deeds that the In- dians reserved the right of hunting, fishing and gathering nuts — all, in fact, that was of any real value to them. The critic says that in such trades the price was nominal and that the Indian was outrageously cheated. Fort- unately, in this case existing evidence proves that Dedham paid the natives more than the English market price, in hard cash, and besides gave one acre at Natick for every four here. The money to pay for the eight thousand acres was raised by a tax on the landholders of Dedham, the owners paymg in proportion to the number of shares or " cow commons " held ; and their ownership of the new territory was in the same proportion. There were five hundred and twenty-two shares in all, held in common, covering the whole of Dedham. In 1 67 1 a committee from Dedham laid out highways, set apart tracts for the support of the ministry, laid out a " Town Plott," and large sections of plow-land and of mow-land. Deerfield 407 In each of these sections individuals were as- signed by lot their respective number of cow commons. Later the woodlands were divided in the same manner. For generations this land was bought and sold, not by the acre, but by the cow common, fractions thereof being sheep or goat commons, five of these being a unit. The "Town Plott," laid out in 1671, is the Old Deerfield Street of to-day. The first settlers at Pocumtuck were not, as generally supposed, the original Dedham owners. The shares of the latter had been for years on the market, and many had passed to outsiders. But only picked men were al- lowed to become proprietors. This fact is illustrated by votes like the following : " Dec. 4, 1 67 1. John Plimpton is allowed to purchase land of John Bacon at Pawcumtucke provided that the said John Plimpton doe set- tle thereupon in his owne person." On the same day the request of Daniel Weld for leave to purchase was refused. No reason was as- signed, and Mr. Weld was admitted soon after. "Feb. 16, 1671-2. Lieft. Fisher is alowed libertie to sell 6 cow common rights and one 4o8 Deerfield sheepe common right at Pauconituck to Na- thaniel Sutthfe of Medfield." FRARY HOUSE, 1698. OLDEST IN THE COUNTY. The pioneer settler here was Samuel H ins- dell, of Medford. He had bought shares, and, impatient of delay in making the division, he became a squatter, and in 1669 turned the first furrow in the viro^in soil of Pocumtuck. Sam- son Frary was a close second, if not a contem- porary ; " Samson Frary's cellar" is mentioned in the report of the Committee, May, 1671. Deerfield 409 The settlers increased rapidly. May 7, 1673, the General Court gave them " Liberty of a Towneship," which is Deerfield's only "Act of Incorporation." Soon after, a rude meeting-house was built, and Samuel Mather served as a minister among them. A loose sheet of paper has been found dated Nov. 7, 1673, with a record of a town-meeting. This was signed by the following, who must be called the earliest settlers : Richard Weler John Barnard John Plympton John Weler Joshua Carter Samuel Herenton Samson Frary John Hinsdell Quinten Stockwell Ephraim Hinsdell Joseph Gillet Moses Crafts Barnabas Hinsdell Nathaniel Sutley Robert Hinsdell John Farrington John Allen Thomas Hastings Daniel Weld Francis Barnard Samuel Hinsdell Samuel Daniel Experience Hinsdell James Tufts. The action of this meeting was chiefly on the division of land, but it was voted that " all charges respecting the ministers sallerye or maintenance bee leuied and raised on lands for the present." Another page shows a meet- 4IO Deerfield ing November 17, 1674, when the plantation was called Deerfield. We have no clue as to why or by what authority it was so called. The newcomers found the meadows free from trees, with a rich soil which soon yielded abundantly of wheat, rye, peas, oats, beans, flax, grass and Indian corn. The meadows were enclosed with a common fence to keep out the common stock, which roamed at will on the common land outside. The war of 1675 is called "Philip's War" because Philip was able to incite the tribes to hostilities against the whites, rather than be- cause it was carried on under his direction. A seer and a patriot Philip may have been, but he was not a warrior. It is not known that he was ever in a single conflict. When the first blood was shed at far-away Swanzey, in June, 1675, the men of Pocum- tuck were not disquieted. With the Indians about them they had lived for years in perfect harmony. But when the blow fell on Captains Beers and Lothrop under the shadow of their own Wequamps, war became a reality. As a measure of defense two or three houses were slightly fortified, and none too soon. The village was marked for destruction. On the Deerfield 411 morning of September i, 1675, the Indians gathered in the adjoining woods, awaiting the hour when the men, scattered about the meadows at their work could be shot down one by one, leaving the women and children to the mercy of the Indians. This plan was frustrated. The Indians were discovered early in the morning by James Eggleston, while looking for his horse. Eggleston was shot and the alarm given. The people fled to the forts. These were easily defended by the men, but beyond the range of their muskets ruin and devastation held sway. Deerfield was the first town in the Connecti- cut Valley to be assaulted, and the alarm was general. The news reached Hadley the same day while the inhabitants were gathered in the meeting-house observing a fast ; " and," says Mather, " they were driven from the holy ser- vice they were attending by a most sudden and violent alarm which routed them the whole day after." Their alarm and rout were needless ; no enemy appeared. Yet these words of the his- torian are the narrow foundation on which Stiles and others gradually built up the roman- tic myth of Goffe, as the guardian and deliverer of Hadley. 412 Deerfield September 2, the tactics at Deerfield were successfully repeated by the Indians at North- field. Eight men were killed in the meadows, but enoug["h were left in the villacje to hold the stockade. September 4, Captain Richard Beers with his company who were marching to their relief, were surprised, and himself and twenty men were slain. September 5, Major Robert Treat, with a superior force, brought off the beleaofuered survivors. Sunday, September 12, another blow fell upon Deerfield. The place had now a garri- son under Captain Samuel Appleton. The Indians could see from the hills the soldiers gathering in one of the forts for public wor- ship. They laid an ambush to waylay the soldiers and people returning after service to the north fort, but all escaped their fire save one, who was wounded. Nathaniel Cornbury, left to sentinel the north fort, was captured, and never again heard from. Appleton rallied his men, and the marauders, after inflicting much loss on the settlers, drew off to Pine Hill. But a sadder blow was to fall upon the dwell- ers in this little vale. The accumulated result of their industry and toil was to disappear in flame and ashes. In their wanton destruction Deerfield 413 the Indians had spared the wheat in the field for their own future supply ; " 3000 bushels standing in stacks," says Mather. This wheat was needed at headquarters to feed the gath- ering troops, and Colonel Pynchon, the Com- mander-in-Chief, gave orders to have it threshed and sent to Hadley. Captain Thomas Lothrop, with his company, was sent to convoy the teams transporting it, September 18, 1675, "that most fatal day, the saddest that ever befel New England," says a contemporary, " Captain Lothrop, with his choice company of young men, the very flower of the county of Essex," marched boldly down the street, across South Meadows, up Long Hill, into the woods stretching away to Hat- field Meadows, Confident in his strength, scorning the enemy, Captain Lothrop pushed on through the narrow path, with not a flanker or vancruard thrown out. Extendine alone his left lay a swampy thicket through which crept a nameless brook. Gradually, the swamp nar- rowed, and turned to the right across the line of march. At this spot the combined force of the enemy lay in ambush, and into this trap marched Lothrop and his men. While the teams were slowly dragging their loads through 414 Deerfield the mire, It is said the soldiers laid down their guns to pluck and eat the grapes which grew in abundance by the way. Be this true or not, at this spot they were surprised and stunned by the fierce war-whoop, the flash and roar of muskets with their bolts of death. Captain Lothrop and many of his command fell at the first fire. The men of Pocumtuck sank, the "Flower of Essex" wilted before the blast, and — " Sanguinetto tells ye where the dead Made the earth wet, and turn'd the unwilling waters red." The sluggish stream was baptized for aye, " Bloody Brook." Captain Samuel Moseley, who was search- ing the woods for Indians, hearing the firing, was soon on the ground. Too late to save, he did his best to avenge ; he charged repeat- edly, scattering the enemy, who swarmed as often as dispersed. But he defied all their efforts to surround him. His men exhausted with their long efforts, Moseley was about to retire, when just in the nick of time Major Treat appeared, with a force of English and Mohegans. The enemy were driven westward and were pursued until nightfall. The united ^ Deerfield 415 force then marched to Deerfield, bearing their wounded, and leaving the dead where they fell. Mather says, " this was a black and fatal day wherein there was eight persons made widows and six and twenty children made orphans, all in one little Plantation." That plantation was Deerfield, and these were the heavy tidings which the worn-out soldiers carried to the stricken survivors of the hamlet. Of the seven- teen fathers and brothers who left them in the morning, not one returned to tell the tale. The next morning, Treat and Moseley marched to Bloody Brook and buried the slain — " 64 men in one dreadful grave." The names of sixty- three are known, and also of seven wounded. John Stebbins, ancestor of the Deerfield tribe of that name, is the only man in Lothrop's command known to have escaped unhurt. The reported force of the enemy was a thou- sand warriors, and their loss ninety-six. This must be taken with a grain of allowance. Deerfield was now considered untenable, and the poor remnant of her people were scattered in the towns below. October 5, Springfield was attacked. The Indians laid the same plan as at Deerfield and Northfield. Only notice given by a friendly 4i6 Deerfield Indian during the night before saved the town from total destruction. The assailants were Indians who had lived for generations neigh- bors and friends of the Springfield people. On the 4th they had made earnest protestations of friendship, on the strength of which the garri- son had marched to Hadley. This deliberate treachery was probably planned by Philip. October 19, a large party made an attack on Hatfield, but was repulsed. As the spring of 1676 advanced, a large body of Indians collected at Peskeompskut for the purpose of catching a year's stock of shad and salmon. Parties from thence occasionally har- assed the settlers below, who knew that when the fishing season was over, the enemy would constantly infest the valley, and watch every chance to kill the unprotected. They there- fore determined to take the initiative, and at nightfall of May 18, a party of about a hun- dred and fifty men under Captain William Turner made a night march, surprised the camp at daylight the next morning and de- stroyed many of the enemy. The homeward march was delayed so long that Indians from neighboring camps began to appear. A released captive reported that Deerfield 417 Philip with a thousand warriors was at hand, and as the enemy swarmed on rear and flank, the retreat became almost a panic. The strag- gling and the wounded were cut off. Captain Turner was shot while crossing Green River, about a mile from the battle-field, and the party, under Captain Samuel Holyoke, reached Hat- field with the loss of forty-two men. The warring Indians never recovered from the blow at Peskeompskut. Besides their slain, they lost their year's stock of fish, and the hun- dreds of acres of Indian corn they had planted with the assurance of a permanent abode in that region. The broken, disheartened clans drifted aimlessly eastward. They quarrelled among themselves. Philip, with a few follow- ers, skulked back to Pokanoket, where he fell, August 12, 1676. The war ended soon after. In the spring of 1677, some of the old set- tlers came back and planted their deserted fields ; preparations for building were well ad- vanced by some of the more venturesome, when, September 19, they were surprised by Ashpelon with a party of Indians from Canada, and all were either killed or captured. In 1679 the General Court passed an act regulating the resettlement of deserted towns, 4i8 Deerfield requiring the consent of certain authorities who should prescribe " In what form, way & manner, such townes shallbe settled & erected, wherein they are required to haue a principal respect to neerness and conveniency of habita- tion for securitie against enemyes & more comfort for Xtian comunion & enjoyment of God's worship & educa- tion of children in schools & civility." By virtue of this act a committee was appointed under whose direction a resettlement of the town began in the spring of 1682. Induced by grants of land, new settlers appeared, and the plantation progressed rapidly. In 1686, sixty Proprietors are named. This year, young John Williams appears on the scene as candidate for the ministry; and, September 21, he re- ceived a "call." He was married July 20, 1687, to Eunice, daughter of Rev, Eleazer Mather, of Northampton, October 18, 1688, he was ordained, and the First Church was organized. The second meeting-house was built in 1684, the third in 1695, the fourth, a very elaborate one, in i 729, the fifth, the present brick struct- ure, in 1824, and it is still occupied by the First Church. In all these, save the last, the wor- shippers were "seated" by authority. Deerfield 419 In 1688, on the news of the Revolution in England, the seizure of Andros in Boston and the call for the election of representatives to organize anew government for the Colony, the THIRD MEETINQ-HOUSE, 1695-1729. Cold INDIAN HOUSE ON THE RIGHT.) men of Deerfield acted promptly. Lieutenant Thomas Wells, a commissioned officer under Andros, was selected to represent the town, and the selectmen sent to Boston a certificate to that effect. These men were fully aware 420 Deerfield that in the case of a failure of the movement, the vindictive Andros would wreak his venge- ance upon all concerned. Shrewd men were at the fore, and Randolph himself might search the town records in vain for any trace of these proceedings or other treasonable action. During King William's War, the town was harassed by the enemy ; drought and insects ruined the crops, and a fatal distemper pre- vailed. There was question of deserting the place, but bolder counsels controlled. Baron Castine with an army from Canada attempted a surprise of the town, September 15, 1694, but he was discovered just in time to close the gates, and was driven back with small loss to the defenders. Another army organ- ized in Canada for the same purpose turned back on being discovered by scouts. During this trial Deerfield suffered great losses, but pluck carried her through. Queen Anne's War broke out in i 702. The population here was about three hundred souls. The fortifications on Meeting-house Hill were strengthened, and the house of the commander, Captain Wells, about forty rods south, was palisaded. In May, 1703, Lord Cornbury, Governor of New York, sent word that he had 422 Deerfield learned through his spies of an expedition fit- ting out against Deerfield. Soon after, Major Peter Schuyler sent a similar warning to Rev. John Williams, These warnings were em- phasized in July by news that the Eastern Indians had made a simultaneous attack on all the settlements in Maine, only six weeks after signing a treaty of peace with the most solemn declarations of eternal friendship. Twenty soldiers were sent here to reinforce the home guard, and all were on the alert ; two men, however, were captured October 8, and were carried to Canada. On the alarm which followed sixteen more men were sent here. October 21, Rev. John Williams writes, on behalf of the town, to Governor Dudley : "... We have been driven from our houses & home lots into the fort, (there are but 10 houselots in the fort) ; some a mile, some two miles, whereby we have suffered much loss. We have in the alarms several times been wholly taken off from any business, the whole town kept in, our children of 12 or 13 years and under we have been afraid to improve in the field for fear of the enemy. . . . We have been crowded togather into houses to the preventing of indoor affairs being carryd on to any advantage, . . . several say they would freely leave all they have & go away were it not that it would be disobedience to authority &: a discouraging 423 DOOR OF 'old INDIAN HOUSE" riAGKtD bY INDIANS. NOW IN MEMORIAL HALL. 424 Deerfield their bretheren. The frontier difificulties of a place so remote from others & so exposed as ours, are more than can be known, if not felt. . . ." Nothing can add to this simple and pathetic statement. The months dragged slowly on, and no en- emy. The deep winter snows seemed a safe barrier against invasion. The people, breath- ing more freely, gradually resumed their wonted ways ; but dark clouds loomed up, all unseen, just beyond the northern horizon. In the early morning of February 29, 1 703-4, like a thunderbolt from a clear sky, an army of French and Indians under Hertel de Rouville burst upon the sleeping town, and killed or captured nearly all of the garrison and inhabit- ants within the fort. Through criminal care- lessness the snow had been allowed to drift against the palisades, until, being covered with a hard crust, it afforded an easy and noiseless entrance, so that the enemy were dispersed among the houses before they were discovered. The captives were collected in the house of Ensign John Sheldon, which, being fired by the enemy only on their retreat, was easily saved, and stood until 1848. It was popularly con- sidered the only one not burned, and has gone 426 Deerfield into history as the " Old Indian House." Its front door, hacked by the Indians, is now preserved in Memorial Hall. By sunrise the torch and tomahawk had done their work. The blood of forty-nine murdered men, women and children reddened the snow. Twenty-nine men, twenty-four women and fifty-eight children were made captive, and in a few hours the spoil-encumbered enemy were on their three-hundred miles' march over the desolate snows to Canada. Twenty of the cap- tives were murdered on the route, one of them Eunice Williams, wife of the minister. The spot where she fell is marked by a monument of endurinor orranite. The desolated town was at once made a mili- tary post, and strongly garrisoned. Of the sur- vivors, the men were impressed into the service, and the non-combatants sent to the towns be- low. Persistent efforts were made to recover the captives. Ensign Sheldon was sent three times to Canada on this errand. One by one, and against great odds, most of the surviving men and women were recovered ; but a large proportion of the children remained in Can- ada. Many of their descendants have been traced by Miss Baker, author of Tj-ue Stories Deerfield 427 of New England Captives, among them some of the most distinguished men and women of Canadian history. The inhabitants of Deerfield gradually re- turned to their desolate hearthstones and abandoned fields, and held their own during the war, but not without severe sufferinor and a considerable loss of life. Peace was estab- lished by the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713. Nine years of quiet followed, in which the town prospered. The Indians mingled freely with the people, bartering the products of their hunting for English goods. A permanent peace was hoped for, but this hope was blasted on the outbreak of the Eastern Indians in 1 722. Incited by the Canadians, the northern tribes joined in the war ; and Father Rasle's war brouofht the usual frontier scenes of fire and carnage ; the trading Indians being the most effective leaders or guides for marauding par- ties. Many Deerfield men were in the ser- vice, notably as scouts. Inured to hardship, skilled in woodcraft, they were more than a match for the savage in his own haunts and in his own methods of warfare. In 1729, before the new meeting-house was finished, the people were called to mourn the 428 Deerfield death of their loved and revered pastor. Rev. John WilHams, so widely known as "The Redeemed Captive." His successor was Rev. Jonathan Ashley, who was ordained in 1732 and died in 1780. STEPHEN WILLIAMS, 1693-1782. A CAPTIVE OF FEBRUARY 29, 1703-4. Rev. Stephen Williams, a son of Rev. John Williams, the first pastor, was born in Deer- field in 1693, taken captive to Canada in 1704, Deerfield 429 redeemed in 1 705, graduated at Harvard in 1 713, settled as minister at Longmeadow in 1 716, dying there in 1782 ; he was Chaplain in the Louisburg expedition in 1745, and in the regiment of Col. Ephraim Williams in his fatal campaign in 1755, and again in the Canadian campaign of i 756. His portrait, reproduced on page 428, was painted about 1748 ; it is now in the Memorial Hall of the Pocumtuck Valley Memorial Association, within fourscore rods of the spot where the original was born, and whence he was carried into captivity. On the closing of Father Rasle's war the settlement expanded ; trade and home manu- factures flourished. Deerfield remained no longer the frontier town of the valley, and the brunt of the next border war (of i 743) was felt by the outlying settlements. The one sad blow upon this town fell at a little hamlet called The Bars. August 25, 1746, the families of Samuel Allen and John Amsden, while work- ing in a hay-field on Stebbins Meadow, with a small guard, were surprised by a party of In- dians from Canada, and five men were killed, one girl wounded and one boy captured. This followed close on the fall of Fort Massa- chusetts, and danger of French invasion was 430 Deerfield felt to be imminent. Active measures were taken for defense ; the forts were repaired and the woods filled with scouts. The closing war with France found Deerfield more strongly bulwarked, and still less exposed to attack. No blood was shed within her nar- rowed bounds. Her citizens held prominent positions, and did their part in the campaigns which resulted in the conquest of Canada and the consequent immunity from savage depreda- tions. The nest destroyed, the sting of the hornets was no longer felt or feared. The last raid on Massachusetts soil is described in the following mutilated despatch to the military authorities in Deerfield : " CoLRAiN, March y« 2r, 1759. "Sir : — These are to inform you that yesterday as Jo* McKoon [Kowen] & his wife were coming from Daniel Donitsons & had got so far as where Morrison's house was burned this day year, they was fired upon by the enemy about sunset. I have been down this morn- ing on the spot and find no Blood Shed, but see where they led off Both the above mentioned ; they had their little child with them. I believe they are gone home. I think their number small, for there was about 10 or 12 came [torn off] " The most important civil events of this Deerfield 431 period were the divisions of the township. In 1753 the Green River District, which included what is now Greenfield and Gill, was made a distinct municipality. The next year the con- struction of a bridge over the Pocumtuck River at Cheapside was a prominent issue ; the dis- cussion ended in establishing a ferry at the north end of Pine Hill in i 758. That year the people in the vicinity of Sugar Loaf petitioned the General Court — but without success — for liberty to form a ministerial and educational connection with the town of Sunderland, and to be exempted from paying certain town taxes in consequence. In 1767 the inhabitants of Deerfield-Southwest were set off into a town named Conway ; and Deerfield-Northwest be- came the town of Shelburne in 1 768. The same year Bloody Brook people caught the division fever, but it did not carry them off. A permanent peace being settled and an un- stable currency fixed on a firm cash basis, busi- ness projects multiplied, and Deerfield became the centre of exchange and supply for a large territory. The mechanics, or " tradesmen " as they were called, and their apprentices, rivalled in numbers the agricultural population. Here were found the gunsmith, blacksmith. 432 Deerfield nailer and silversmith, the maker of snow- shoes and moccasins, the tanner, currier, shoe- maker and saddler, the pillion, knapsack and wallet-maker, the carpenter and joiner, the clap- board and shingle-maker, the makers of wooden shovels, corn-fans, flax-brakes, hackels, looms and spinning-wheels, cart-ropes and bed-lines, and pewter buttons, the tailor, hatter, furrier, feltmaker, barber and wigmaker, the cart- wright, millwright, cabinet-maker, watchmaker, the brickmaker and mason, the miller, the carder, clothier, fuller, spinner, weaver of duck and common fabrics, the potter, the grave- stone-cutter, the cooper, the potash-maker, the skilled forger who turned out loom and plow irons, farm and kitchen utensils. There were doctors and lawyers, the judge and the sheriff ; storekeepers were many, and tavern-keepers galore. To all these the old account-books in Memorial Hall bear testimony. Many leading men held commissions from the King in both civil and military service. These were rather a distinctive class, holding their heads quite high, and when the Revolu- tion broke out they were generally loyal to the King, making heavy odds against the Whigs. But new leaders came to the front, who, so far Deerfield 433 as they had character and force, held their own after the war, and the old Tory leaders were relegated to the rear. At the opening of the Revolutionary War the parties were nearly equal in numbers ; on one yea and nay test vote there was a tie. Ex- citement ran high. In 1774 the "Sons of Liberty " erected a Liberty Pole, and at the same time a " Tory Pole," whatever that might be. The mob spirit was rampant. Through it the fires of patriotism found vent ; but it was always under the control of the leaders, and its most common office was to " humble the Tories," and compel them to sign obnoxious declarations of neutrality, or of submission to the will of the Committees of Safety and Cor- respondence. A Tory of this period wrote : " Oh Tempora, all nature seems to be in con- fusion ; every person in fear of what his Neigh- bor may do to him. Such times never was seen in New England." In October, 1774, a company of minute-men was organized here as part of a regiment under the Provincial Congress. November 14, staff-officers were chosen. David Field, colo- nel, and David Dickinson, major, were both of Deerfield. December 5, the town raised 434 Deerfield money to buy ammunition by selling lumber from its woodland. January 5, 1775, an emis- sary from General Gage was here, advising the Tories to go to Boston. " The standard will be set up in March," he said, " and those who do not go in and lay down their arms may meet with bad luck." He was discovered, but had the good luck to escape a mob ; an- other agent who came a few days later was not so fortunate. But the culmination of all the secret machi- nations and open preparations was at hand. April 20, at a town-meeting, votes were passed to pay wages to the minute-men for what they had done ; " to encourage them in perfecting themselves in the Military Art," provision was made for " practicing one half-day in each week." The voters could hardly have left the meet- ing-house, when the sound of a galloping horse was heard, and the hoarse call, " To arms ! To arms ! " broke upon the air. The horse bloody with spurring and the rider covered with dust brought the news of Concord and Lexington. The half-day drills had done their work. Be- fore the clock in the meeting-house steeple struck the midnight hour, fifty minute-men. Deerfield 435 under Captain Jonas Locke, Lieutenant Thomas Bardwell and Lieutenant Joseph Stebbins, were on the march to Cambridge. This company was soon broken up ; Captain Locke entered the Commissary Department, while Lieutenant Stebbins enhsted a new com- pany, with which he assisted General Putnam in constructing the redoubt on Bunker Hill, and in its defense the next day, the ever-glorious 17th of June. One Deerfield man was killed and several were wounded. Independence Day should be celebrated, in Deerfield, June 26, for on that day in 1776 the town " Voted that this Town will ( if y' Hotiorable Congress shall for y' safety of y' United Colonies declare them In- dependent of y' Kingdom of Great Britain) Solemnly Engage with their Lives and Fortunes to Support them in y' Measure, and that y* Clerk be directed to make an attested copy of this Vote and forward y^ same to Mr. Saxton, Representative for this town, to be laid before the General Court for their Information." Here was treason proclaimed and recorded, and every voter was exposed to its penalty. Ten days later the Continental Congress issued the world-stirring Declaration of In- dependence. 43^ Deerfield On Burgoyne's invasion in 1777 a company under Captain Josepli Stebbins and Lieuten- ant John Bardwell marched for Bennington. They were too late for the battle at Walloom- sack, and found the meeting-house filled with Stark's Hessian prisoners. But they had their share in the work and glory of rounding up and capturing the proud soldiers of Burgoyne. Deerfield had statesmen as well as soldiers. May I, 1780, the town met to consider the new Constitution of Massachusetts ; the clerk read the instrument " paragraph by paragraph with pauses between." After due discussion, a com- mittee was chosen to " peruse the Constitution . . . and make such objections to it as they think ought to be made." Three town-meetings were held, the committee reported, and finally a vote was passed " not to accept the third Arti- cle in the Declaration of Rights," and that a candidate for governor must " Declare himself of the Protestant Reliction " instead of " Christ- ian Religion." The term of eight years in- stead of fifteen was voted as the time when the Constitution should be revised. With these changes, our civic wisdom approved of this important State paper. Deerfield did her full duty in furnishing her Deerfield 437 quota of men and supplies through the war. Occasionally, in the later years of the struggle, ^^^-^..i^^^:,^ ^^^'^^-^-t^^^ 1822-1884. the Tories temporarily obstructed the necessary town legislation. Some of these soon found 43^ Deerfield themselves behind the bars, and others in en- forced silence under penalty of like restraint. The minister, Mr. Ashley, who had been firm in his loyalty, died in i 780, and the Tories lost one of their strongest supports. Not until 1787 could the town unite upon his successor, when Rev. John Taylor was ordained. The uprising called Shays' Rebellion did much to harmonize the warring factions, as all united to put it down. Three companies, under Cap- tains Joseph Stebbins, Samuel Childs and Thomas W. Dickinson, were sent to the field of action. From this time, harmony prevailed, and the career of the town was that of an industrious, hard-working, prosperous, intellectual people. Libraries and literary societies were estab- lished, which are still flourishing. Deerfield Academy was founded in 1797, and endowed largely through the liberality of the citizens. Its influence was felt for generations, as its pupils from far and wide were scions of leading families. Among its faculty and graduates may be named men of national reputation, in the scientific, the historical, the ecclesiastical, the military, the artistic and the industrial world. Failing health obliged Mr. Taylor to resign ; BUFFET FROM PARSON WILLIAMS'S HOUSE. NOW IN MEMORIAL HALL. 439 440 Deerfield and in 1807 the Rev. Samuel Willard suc- ceeded him in the ministry, when, in the separa- tion of the Congregational churches, Deerfield led the van on the liberal side. The political storms of the first two decades of the century raged here with strength and vigor. In the War of 1 812 a " Professor of the Art of War " was added to the faculty of the Deerfield Academy, and a Peace Party circu- lated their protesting publications. Deerfield was early at the front in the anti- slavery agitation, and in the war lost some of her best blood. The names of her dead in that righteous war are carved on a fitting monument pointing aloft from the midst of her ancient trainine-field. One great attraction in the old town is the Pocumtuck Valley Memorial Association, char- tered in 1870. It owns and occupies the old academy building, which it secured when the new Free Dickinson Academy was established in 1878. Its museum occupies the entire struct- ure, and contains an exhaustive, characteristic collection of the implements, utensils and general household belongings of the colonial days ; and also of the original lords of the valley, the Pocumtuck Indians. Deerfield 44i In the ante-railroad days, Cheapside, at the head of Pocumtuck River navigation, was a thriving business village, with large imports of foreign wet and dry goods, and large exports of lumber, woodenware and brooms ; Deer- field was long famous for its stall-fed beef, as many a New York and Boston epicure did testify ; but the advent of the iron horse soon brought about the departure of the fall boat, and the passing of the stall-fed ox. The old town is no longer a centre of political power, or of trade and manufactures. The generous additions of territory to her original Grant have been bestowed upon the children of her loins, now flourishing towns about her. The advent of factories has absorbed one by one her multifarious mechanical industries. Her young men and maidens are seeking elsewhere spheres of action in fields till now undreamed of. But Old Deerfield still retains much of her best. Still, as of old, she is an intellectual centre. Still beautifully situated, she lies in the embrace of the broad green meadows, with here and there a gleam of silver from the sinu- ous Pocumtuck. Her ancient houses, shadowed by towering elms, hoary with age, her charm- 442 Deerfield ing wooded heights, her romantic gorges and tumbling brooks, her restful quiet, her famous past, all in harmony with the thought and feeling of her inhabitants, still attract alike men and women of letters, the artist and the historical student. NEWPORT THE ISLE OF PEACE By SUSAN COOLIDGE THE Isle of Peace lies cradled in the wide arms of a noble bay. Fifteen miles long and from four to five miles in width, its shape is not unlike that of an heraldic dragon, laid at ease in the blue waters, with head pointed to the southwest. From this head to the jut- ting cape which does duty as the left claw of the beast, the shore is a succession of bold cliffs, broken by coves and stretches of rocky shingle, and in two places by magnificent curv- ing beaches, upon which a perpetual surf foams and thunders. Parallel ridges of low hills run back from the sea. Between these lie ferny vallej/s, where wild roses grow in thickets, and such shy flowers as love solitude and a sheltered situation spread a carpet for the spring and early summer. On the farther 443 444 Newport uplands are thrifty farms, set amid orchards of wind-blown trees. Ravines, each with its thread of brook, cut their way from these higher levels to the water-line. Fleets of lilies whiten the ponds, of which there are many on the island ; and over all the scene, softening every outline, tingeing and changing the sun- light, and creating a thousand beautiful effects forever unexpected and forever renewed, hangs a thin veil of shifting mist. This the sea- wind, as it journeys to and fro, lifts and drops, and lifts again, as one raises a curtain to look in at the slumber of a child, and, having looked, noiselessly lets it fall. The Indians, with that fine occasional in- stinct which is in such odd contrast to other of their characteristics, gave the place its pretty name. Aquidneck, the Isle of Peace, they called it. To modern men it is known as the island of Rhode Island, made famous the land over by the town built on its seaward extremity — the town of Newport. It is an old town, and its history dates back to the early days of the New England col- ony. City, it calls itself, but one loves bet- ter to think of it as a town, just as the word " avenue," now so popular, is in some minds 44^ Newport forever translated into the simpler equivalent, " street." As the veiling mists gather and shift, and then, caught by the outgoing breeze, float seaward again, we catch glimpses, framed, as it were, between the centuries, quaint, oddly differing from each other, but full of interest. The earliest of these glimpses dates back to an April morning in 1524. There is the cliff- line, the surf, the grassy capes tinged with sun, and in the sheltered bay a strange little vessel is dropping her anchor. It is the caravel of Vezzerano, pioneer of French explorers in these northern waters, and first of that great tide of " summer visitors " which has since followed in his wake. How he was received, and by whom, Mr. Parkman tells us : " Following the shores of Long Island, they came first to Block Island, and thence to the harbor of New- port. Here they stayed fifteen days, most courteously re- ceived by the inhabitants. Among others, appeared two chiefs, gorgeously arrayed in painted deer-skins ; kings, as Vezzerano calls them, with attendant gentlemen ; while a party of squaws in a canoe, kept by their jealous lords at a safe distance, figure in the narrative as the queen and her maids. The Indian wardrobe had been taxed to its utmost to do the strangers honor, — coffee bracelets and wampum collars, lynx-skins, raccoon-skins, and faces bedaubed with gaudy colors. 448 Newport " Again they spread their sails, and on the fifth of May bade farewell to the primitive hospitalities of New- port.'" Wampum and coffee bracelets are gone out of fashion since then, the appHcation of " gaudy colors " to faces, though not altogether done away with, is differently practised and to better effect, and squaws are no longer relega- ted by their jealous lords to separate and dis- tant canoes ; but the reputation for hospitality, so early won, Newport still retains, as many a traveller since Vezzerano has had occasion to testify. And still, when the early summer- tide announces the approach of strangers, her inhabitants, decking themselv^es in their best and bravest, go forth to welcome and to " courteously entreat " all new arrivals. Aofain the mist lifts and reveals another picture. Two centuries have passed. The sachems and their squaws have vanished, and on the hill-slope where once their lodges stood a town has sprung up. Warehouses line the shores and wharves, at which lie whalers and merchantmen loading and discharging their cargoes. A large proportion of black faces appears among the passers-by in the streets, ' Pioneers of Frniue in the Netv IVorla. Newport 449 and many straight-skirted coats, broad-brimmed hats, gowns of sober hue and poke-bonnets of drab. Friends abound as well as negroes, not to mention Jews, Moravians, Presbyterians and " Six-Principle " and " Seven-Principle " Baptists ; for, under the mild fostering of Roger Williams, Newport has become a city of refuge to religious malcontents of every persuasion. All the population, however, is not of like sobriety. A " rage of finery " dis- tinguishes the aristocracy of the island, and silk-stockinged gentlemen, with scarlet coats and swords, silver-buckled shoes and lace ruf- fles, may be seen in abundance, exchanging stately greetings with ladies in brocades and hoops, as they pass to and fro between the decorous gambrel-roofed houses or lift the brazen knockers of the street-doors. It is a Saint's-Day, and on the hill above, in a quaint edifice of white-painted wood, with Queen Anne's royal crown and a gilded pennon on its spire, the Rev. Mr. Honeyman, missionary of the English Society for the Propagation of the Gospel, is conducting the service in Trinity Church. The sermon begins, but is inter- rupted by a messenger who hurries in with a letter which he hands to the divine in the pul- 450 Newport pit. The clergyman reads it aloud to his audi- ence, pronounces a rapid benediction, and "wardens, vestry, church and congregation" crowd to the ferry-wharf, off which lies a " pretty large ship," just come to anchor, A boat rows to the shore, from which alights a gentleman of " middle stature, and an agreea- ble, pleasant and erect aspect," wearing the canonicals of an English dean. He leads by the hand a lady ; three other gentlemen follow in their company. The new arrival is George Berkeley, Dean of Derry, philosopher and scholar, who, on his way to Bermuda with the project of there planting an ideally perfect university, "for the instruction of the youth of America" (!), has chosen Rhode Island as a suitable vantage-point from which to organize and direct the new undertaking. His com- panions are his newly married wife and three " learned and elegant friends," Sir John James, Richard Dalton and the artist Smibert. Not every Saint's-Day brings such voyagers to Newport from over the sea. No wonder that Trinity Church services are interrupted, and that preacher and congregation crowd to the wharf to do the strangers honor ! The Berkeley party spent the first few Newport 451 months of their stay in the town of Newport, whence the Dean made short excursions to what Mrs. Berkeley terms " the Continent," meaning the main- land opposite. To- ward the close of their first summer, James, Dalton and Smibert removed to Boston, and the Berkeley family to a farm in the interior of the is- land, which the Dean had purchased and on which he had built a house. The house still exists, and is still known by the name of Whitehall, given it by its loyal owner in remembrance of the ancient palace of the king-s of England. The estate, which comprised less than a hundred acres, lies in a grassy valley to the south of Honeyman's Hill, and about two miles back GEORGE BERKELEY, DEAN OF DERRY. 452 Newport from what is now known as the " Second Beach." It commands no " view " whatever. Dean Berkeley, when asked why he did not choose a site from which more could be seen, is said to have replied that " if a prospect were continually in view it would lose its charm." His favorite walk was toward the sea, and he is supposed to have made an out- door study of a rocky shelf, overhung by a cliff cornice, on the face of a hill-ridge front- ing the beach, which shelf is still known as " Bishop Berkeley's Rock." Three years the peaceful life of Whitehall continued. Two children were born to the Bishop, one of whom died in infancy. The house was a place of meeting for all the mis- sionaries of the island, as well as for the more thoughtful and cultivated of the Newport so- ciety. At last, in the winter of 1 730, came the crisis of the Bermuda scheme. Land had been purchased, the grant of money half pro- mised by the English Government was due. But the persuasive charm of the founder of the enterprise was no longer at hand to influ- ence those who had the power to make or mar the project ; and Sir Robert Walpole, with that sturdy indifference to pledge, or to other 454 Newport people's convenience, which distinguished him, intimated with fatal clearness of meaning, that if Dean Berkeley was waiting in Rhode Island for twenty thousand pounds of the public money to be got out of his exchequer, he might as well return to Europe without further loss of time. The bubble was indeed broken, and Berkeley, brave still and resolutely patient under this heavy blow, prepared for departure. His books he left as a gift to the library of Yale College, and his farm of Whitehall was made over to the same institution, to found three scholarships for the encouragement of Greek and Latin study. These bequests ar- ranofed, his wife and their one remainingf child sailed for Ireland. There, a bishopric, and twenty years of useful and honorable labor, awaited him, and the brief dream of Rhode Island must soon have seemed a dream indeed. Few vestiges remain now of his sojourn, — the shabby farmhouse once his home, the chair in which he sat to write, a few books and papers, the organ presented by him to Trinity Church, a big family portrait by Smibert, and, appeal- ing more strongly to the imagination than these, the memory of his distinguished name as a friend of American letters, still preserved Newport 455 by scholarship or foundation in many institu- tions of learning — and the little grave in Trinity churchyard, where, on the south side of the Kay Monument, sleeps " Lucia Berke- ley, daughter of Dean Berkeley, obiit the fifth of September, 1731." The traveller who to-day is desirous of visit- ing Whitehall may reach it by the delightful way of the beaches. Rounding the long curve of the First Beach, with its dressing-houses and tents, its crowd of carriaofes and swarms of gayly clad bathers, and climbing the hill at the far end, he will find himself directly above the lonely but far more beautiful Second Beach. Immediately before him, to the left, he will see Bishop Berkeley's Rock, with its cliff-hung shelf, and beyond, the soft outlines of Sachuest Point, the narrow blue of the East Passage, and a strip of sunlit mainland. The breezy perch where Alciphi'on was written is on the sea-face of one of the parallel rock- formations which, with their intervening val- leys, make up the region known as " Paradise Rocks." Near by, in the line of low cliffs which bounds the beach to the southward, is the chasm called " Purgatory," a vertical fissure some fifty feet in depth, into which, under cer- 45^ Newport tain conditions of wind and tide, the water rushes with orreat force and is sucked out with a hollow boom, which is sufficiently frightful to explain the name selected for the spot. The rocks which make up the cliffs are in great part conglomerate, of soft shades of pur- ple and reddish gray. Beyond, the white beach glistens in the sun. And to the left, the road curves on past farmhouses and "cottages of gentility." Away on the valley slope, the slow sails of a windmill revolve and flash, cast- ing a flying shadow over the grass. A mile farther, and the road, making a turn, is joined to the right by what seems to be a farm-lane shut off by gates. This is the entrance to Whitehall. The house can be dimly made out from the road — a low, square building with a lean-to and a long, steep pitch of roof, front- ing on a small garden overgrown with fruit- trees. The present owner holds it from the college under what may truly be called a long lease, as it has still some eight hundred and odd years to run. He has built a house near by, for his own occupation, and, alas ! has re- moved thither the last bit that remained of the decorative art of the old Whitehall, namely, the band of quaint Dutch tiles which once sur- " PURGATORY." 45^ Newport rounded the chimney-piece of the parlor. But the parlor remains unchanged, with its low ceil- ing and uneven floor ; the old staircase is there, the old trees, and, in spite of the tooth of time and the worse spoliation of man, enough is left to hint at the days of its early repute and to make the place worth a visit. One more glimpse through the mist before we come to the new times of this our Isle of Peace. It is just half a century since Berke- ley, his baffled scheme heavy at his heart, set sail for Ireland. The fog is unusually thick, and lies like a fleece of wool over the sea. Absolutely nothing can be seen, but strange sounds come, borne on the wind from the di- rection of Block Island — dull reports as of cannon signals ; and the inhabitants of New- port prick up their ears and strain their eyes with a mixture of hope and terror ; for the French fleet is looked for ; English cruisers have been seen or suspected hovering round the coast, and who knows but a naval engage- ment is taking place at that very moment. By and by the fog lifts, with that fantastic de- liberation which distinguishes its movements, and presently stately shapes whiten the blue, and, gradually nearing, reveal themselves as Newport 459 the frigates Surveillante, Amazone and Guipe, The Duke of Burguiidy, and The Neptu7ie, "doubly sheathed with copper"; The Con- quer ant, The Provence, The EveilU, also "doubly sheathed with copper"; The Lazo7i and The Ardent, convoying a host of trans- ports and store-ships ; with General Rocham- ROCHAMBEAU'S HEADQUARTERS. beau and his officers on board, besides the regiments of Bourbonnais, Soissonais, Sain- tonge and Royal Deux Fonts, five hundred artillerists and six hundred of Lauzan's Le- gion, all come to aid the infant United States, then in the fourth year of their struggle for independence. Never was reinforcement more timely or more ardently desired. We 460 Newport may be sure that all Newport ran out to greet the new arrivals. Among the other officers who landed on that eventful nth of July, was Claude Blanchard, commissary-in-chief of the French forces — an important man enough to the expedition, but of very little importance now, except for the lucky fact that he kept a journal, — which journal, recently published, gives a better and more detailed account of affairs at that time and place than any one else has afforded us. It is from Blanchard that we learn of the three months' voyage ; of sighting now and again the vessels of the English squadron ; of the Chevalier de Fernay's refusal to engage them, he being intent on the safe-conduct of his convoy ; of the consequent heart-burnings and reproaches of his captains, which, together with the stings of his own wounded pride, re- sulted in a fever, and subsequently in his death, recorded on the tablet which now adorns the vestibule of Trinity Church. The town was illuminated in honor of the fleet. " A small but handsome town," says Blanchard, "and the houses, though mostly of wood, are of an agreeable shape." The first work of the newly arrived allies Newport 461 was to restore the redoubts which the Enghsh had dismantled and in great part destroyed. It was at this time that the first fort on the DumpHngs, and the original Fort Adams, on Brenton's Reef, were built. The excellent Blanchard meanwhile continues his observa- tions on climate, society and local customs. One of his criticisms on the national charac- teristics strikes us oddly now, yet has its inter- est as denoting the natural drift and result of the employment of a debased currency. " The Americans are slow, and do not de- cide promptly in matters of business," he ob- serves. " It is not easy for us to rely upon their promises. They love money, and hard money ; it is thus they designate specie to distinguish it from paper money, which loses prodigiously. This loss varies according to circumstances and according to the provinces." Later we hear of dinners and diners : " They do not eat soups, and do not serve up ragouts at their dinners, but boiled and roast, and much vegeta- bles. They drink nothing but cider and Madeira wine with water. The dessert is composed of preserved quinces and pickled sorrel. The Americans eat the latter with the meat. They do not take coffee immediately after dinner, but it is served three or four hours afterward with tea ; this coffee is weak, and four or five cups are 462 Newport not equal to one of ours ; so that they take many of them. The tea, on the contrary, is very strong. Break- fast is an important affair with them. Besides tea and coffee, they put on table roasted meats, with butter, pies and ham ; nevertheless they sup, and in the af- ternoon they again take tea. Thus the Americans are almost always at table ; and as they have little to occupy them, as they go out little in winter, and spend whole days alongside their fireside and their wives, without read- ing and without doing anything, going to table is a relief and a preventive of ennui. Yet they are not great eaters." On the 5th of March, 1781, General Wash- ington arrived in Newport. Blanchard thus records his first impressions of the commander- in-chief : "His face is handsome, noble and mild. He is tall — at the least, five feet eight inches (French measure). In the evening I was at supper with him. I mark, as a fortun- ate day, that in which I have been able to behold a man so truly great." After the war came a period of great busi- ness depression, in which Newport heavily shared. The British, during their occupa- tion of the town, had done much to injure it. Nearly a thousand buildings were de- stroyed by them on the island ; fruit- and shade- trees were cut down, the churches were used LIFE MASK OF WASHINGTON. MADE BY HOUDON IN 1785. 463 4^4 Newport as barracks, and the Redwood Library was de- spoiled of its more valuable books. Commerce was dead ; the suppression of the slave-trade reduced many to poverty, and the curse of paper money — to which Rhode Island clung after other States had abandoned i^ — poisoned the very springs of public credit. Brissot de Warville, in the record of his journey "per- formed" through the United States in 1788, draws this melancholy picture of Newport at that time : " Since the peace, everything is changed. The reign of solitude is only interrupted by groups of idle men standing, with folded arms, at the corners of the streets ; houses falling to ruin ; miserable shops, which present nothing but a few coarse stuffs, or baskets of apples, and other articles of little value ; grass growing in the public square, in front of the court of justice ; rags stuffed in the windows, or hung upon hideous women and lean, uncpiiet children." Count Rochefoucauld-Liancourt, writing ten years later, calls the place " ccl^e ville tristc ct basse,'' and further ventures on this remarkable criticism of its salubrity : " The healthfulness of the city of Newport and its en- virons is doubtless the result of the brilliancy and cool- ness of its climate, but this coolness proves fatal to its Newport 465 younger inhabitants, and the number of young men, and, above all, of young women, who die yearly of consump- tion is considerable. It is noteworthy that the inscrip- tions on the tombstones in the cemetery indicate in almost all cases that the person interred is either very young or very old — either less than twenty years of age or more than seventy." Whether this statement of Count Rochefou- cauld's bears the test of examination would be impossible now to determine, for the century since his visit has made changes in the city of the dead as marked as those effected in the city of the living. But the " cool and bril- liant " air with which he finds fault has since been proved by many invalids to be full of health-giving properties. Consumptives are more often sent to Newport for cure, nowa- days, than away from it. Asthma, diseases of the chest and throat, nervous disorders, insom- nia, excitability of brain, are in many cases sensibly benefited by the island climate, which, however, is less " brilliant " than sedative. This is attributed to the relaxing effects of the Gulf Stream, which is popularly supposed to make an opportune curve toward the shore and to produce a quality of air quite different from that of other New England seaside cli- 466 Newport mates. Whatever may be the truth as to the bend of this obHging current, it is certain that something has given to the place an excep- tional climate, pure, free from malaria and exempt equally from the fiercer heats of sum- mer and the severer colds of winter. It was not till about the year 1830 that the true source of Newport's pros- perity was real- ized to be her climate. Since then she has be- come more and more the Mecca of pilgrims from all parts of the country. Year by y ear, the town has spread and broadened, stretching out wide arms to include distant coigns of vantage, until now the summer city covers some miles in extent, and land, unsalable in the early part of the century, and but twenty years ago commanding little more than the price of a Western homestead, is now valued at from THE PARSONAGE OF MRS. STOWE'S " MINISTER'S WOOING." Newport 467 ten to fourteen thousand dollars an acre ! Every year adds to the number of cottages and villas and to the provision made for the accommodation of strangers. The census, which in winter counts up to less than twenty thousand, is during the four months of " the season " swelled by the addition of thousands of strangers, many of whom are in a manner residents of the place, owning their own houses and preserving their domestic privacy. A walk in the older and more thickly settled parts of the town is not without its rewards. There are to be found well-known objects of interest, — the Jewish burial-ground, with its luxurious screen of carefully tended flowers ; the Redwood Library, rich in old books and the possession of the finest cut-leaved beech on the island ; and the old Stone Mill, on which so much speculative reasoning in prose and verse has been lavished. Some years ago, those ruthless civic hands which know neither taste nor mercy, despoiled the mill of the vines which made it picturesque, but even thus denuded, it is an interesting object. There is old Trinity, with its square pews and burial tablets, and a last-century " three-decker" pul- pit, with clerk's desk, reading-desk and preach- 468 Newport ing-desk, all overhung by a conical sounding- board of extinguisher pattern — a sounding- DOORWAY OF OLD HOUSE ON THAMES STREET. board on which whole generations of little boys have fixed fascinated eyes, wondering in case Newport 469 of fall what would become of the clergyman underneath it. And, besides these, each west- ward-leading street gives pretty glimpses of bay and islands and shipping, and there is al- ways the chance of lighting on a bit of the past, — some quaint roof or wall or doorway, left over from Revolutionary times and hold- ing up a protesting face from among more modern buildings. Winter or summer, the charm which most endears Newport to the imaginative mind is, and must continue to be, the odd mingling of old and new which meets you on every hand. A large portion of the place belongs and can belong to no other day but our own, but touching it everywhere, apart from it but of it, is the past. It meets you at every turn, in legend or relic or quaint traditionary custom still kept up and observed. Many farm-hands and servants on the island still date and renew their contracts of service from " Lady-Day." The "nine-o'clock bell," which seems derived in some dim way from the ancient curfew, is regularly rung. The election parade, dear to little boys and peanut-venders, has continued to be a chief event every spring, with its pro- cession, its drums, its crowd of country visitors, 470 Newport and small booths for the sale of edibles and non-edibles pitched on either side the State- House Square, which, in honor of this yearly observance, is called familiarly, "The Parade." One of the oldest militia companies in New England is the Newport Artillery, and The Mercnry, established in 1758 by a brother of Benjamin Franklin, is the oldest surviving news- paper in the United States. Newport also possesses a town-crier. He may be met with any day, tinkling his bell at street corners and rehearsing, in a loud, melancholy chant, facts regarding auction-sales, or town-meetings, or lost property. And, turning aside from the polo-play or the Avenue crowded with brilliant equipages, a few rods carries you to the quiet loneliness of a secluded burial-place, with the name of an ancient family carved on its locked gate, in which, beneath gray headstones and long, flowering grasses, repose the hushed secrets of a century ago. Or, fresh from the buzz and chatter, the gay interchange of the day, you may chance on an old salt spinning yarns of pirates and privateers, phantom ships or buried treasure, or an antiquary full of well- remembered stories whose actors belong to the far-gone past, — stories of the extinct glories of Newport 471 the place, of family romance and family trag- edy, or tragedy just escaped. What could be finer contrast than tales like these, told on a street-corner where, just before, perhaps, the question had been about Wall Street or Santiago, if the French frigate were still in the bay, or when would be the next meeting of the Town and Country Club ! Indeed, it is not so many years since visitors to Newport miofht have held speech with a dear old lady whose memory carried her back clearly and distinctly to the day when, a child six years old, she sat on Washington's knee. The little girl had a sweet voice. She sang a song to the great man, in recompense for which he honored her GENERAL NATHANAEL GREENE. FROM ONE OF MALBONE'S BEST MINIATURES. 472 Newport with a salute. "It was here, my dear, and here, that General Washington kissed me," she would say to her grandchildren, touching first one and then the other wrinkled cheek ; and to the end of her life, no other lips were suffered to profane with a touch the spots thus made sacred. In a country whose charm and whose re- proach alike is its newness, and to a society whose roots are forever being uprooted and freshly planted to be again uprooted, there is real education and advantage in the tangible neighborhood of the past ; and the Newport past is neither an unlovely nor a reproachful shape. There is dignity in her calm mien ; she looks on stately and untroubled, and com- pares and measures. The dazzle and glitter of modern luxury do not daunt her : she has seen splendor before in a different generation and different forms, she has shared it, she has watched it fade and fail. Out of her mute, critical regard, a voice seems to sound in tones like the rustle of falling leaves in an autumn day, and to utter that ancient and melancholy truth, Vanitas vanitatum ! "The fashion of this world passeth away." We listen, awed for a moment, and then we smile again, — for bright- Newport 473 ness near at hand has a more potent spell than melancholy gone by, — and turning to our modern lives with their movement and sun- shine, their hope and growth, we are content to accept and enjoy such brief day as is granted us, nor "prate nor hint of change till change shall come." PROVIDENCE THE COLONY OF HOPE By WILLIAM B. WEEDEN THE capital of Rhode Island, the second city of New England, — an agricultural village in the seventeenth, a commercial port in the eighteenth, and a centre of manufactur- ing in the nineteenth century, — lies at the head of Narragansett Bay. The mainland of the State westward to Connecticut, according to Shaler, rests on very old rocks of the Lauren- tian and Lower Cambrian series. The greater part of the bay and the land near Providence is upon rocks belonging to the Coal measures. These rocks, softer than the older ones, have been cut away and afford the inlets of the bay. The surface of the State and the sloping hills of Providence have been profoundly affected by the wearing course of the glaciers. The original village skirted along the west- 475 47^ Providence ern side of the ridge, by which ran the Httle Moshassuck and Woons-asquetucket Rivers. Eastward the ridge stretched in a plateau to the larger Seekonk, which cut off the penin- sula. On the eastern side of the Seekonk, Roger Williams had settled and planted, when Plymouth Colony significantly advised him to move on. In June, 1636, with five com- panions, he crossed the Seekonk and landed on the rock, since raised to the grade of Ives and Williams streets. Here, as the tradition runs, Indians greeted him cordially, " What Cheer, Netop ! What Cheer ! " He had arranged with the Narragansett sachems, Canonicus and Miantinomi, for deeds of the lands about these rivers and the Pawtuxet, with certain un- defined rights extending westward and north- ward. The canoe kept away from What Cheer or Slate rock, south and westward around Tock- wotton and Fox Point, up the Providence River, to land near where St. John's Church stands. The spring of water attracting the pioneer and kept as public property is in the basement of a house on the northwest corner of North Main Street and Allen's Lane. North Main was the " Towne Streete," occupied by o S cc 4/8 Providence the little band of settlers. Williams's " home- lot " stretched easterly, including the land of the Dorr Estate, at the corner of Benefit and Bowen Streets. A stone In the rear of the buildings marks the spot where Roger Wil- liams was burled. In this man was the germ of Providence, the adumbration of the little commonwealth of Rhode Island. Whatever drove him from Massachusetts, however the Puritans enforced their narrow political scheme, the result was a free State founded on new principles of gov- ernment. In the words of Thomas Durfee : " Absolute sincerity is the key to his character, as it was always the mainspring of his conduct. . . . He had the defect of his qualities ; — an inordinate confidence in his own judgment. He had also the defects of his race ; — the hot Welsh temper, passionate and resentful under provocation, and the moody Welsh fancy." The " Plantations of Providence " began In these " home-lots," reaching eastward from the " Towne Streete." It was intended to give each settler five acres. Some had, moreover, meadow-lands, and there were common rights, as In all the plantations of New England. Chad Brown, John Throckmorton, and Greg- ory Dexter were the committee who made 480 Providence the first allotment. The land had been con- veyed from the Indian sachems, and Williams gave it by " initial deed " to his twelve com- panions, making thirteen original proprietors. " Probably in the autumn of 1638, and cer- tainly prior to the i6th of March, 1639,"' ^he settlers formed the first Baptist church in America. Williams was pastor for about four months, with Holyman as colleague. Chad Brown was ordained in 1642 with William Wickenden. The latter was succeeded by Gregory Dexter. The present church, adapted by James Sumner from designs of James Gibbs, architect, was built in 1775. Earlier than this, though the date is not fixed, the proprietors had made the following agreement, the import- ance of which can hardly be overestimated : " We whose names are hereunder, desirous to inhabit in the town of Providence, do promise to subject our- selves in active or passive obedience, to all such orders or agreements as shall be made for public good of the body, in an orderly way, by the major assent of the present inhabitants, masters of families, incorporated together into a town-fellowship, and such others whom they shall admit unto them only in civil things." Here was laid the foundation of soul liberty. Let us refer to Diman : '' Thus, for the first ' Arnold, Rhode Island, i., 107. Providence 481 time in history, a form of government was adopted which drew a clear and unmistakable line between the temporal and spiritual power, and a community came into being which was an anomaly among the nations." It was a pure democracy, controlling the admission of its members. They soon found that some delegation of power was needed for civil administration, and in 1640 they elaborated their system somewhat, and established rudimentary courts. They per- ceived that they could not remain safely be- tween the unfriendly colonies of Massachusetts on one side, and the alien Dutch of New York on the other. They sent Williams to Eng- land, whence he returned in 1644, bringing a parliamentary charter. Under this, the towns of Providence, Portsmouth and Newport were united, with the name "The Incorporation of Providence Plantations in the Narragansett Bay in New England." In 1645 there were, according to Holmes, loi men in Providence capable of bearing arms. Staples thinks this estimate includes the population of Shawonct or Warwick. In 1663 John Clarke of New- port obtained the royal charter, which was adopted by the freemen of the towns, and the 482 Providence commonwealth was entitled the " Colony of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations." The oldest tax or rate bill extant dates from 1650, when Roger Williams was assessed ^1,13.4. In 1663 the whole tax was ^36. as- sessed in " Country pay," which performed such important functions in the currencies of New Eng-land, viz., wheat at 4^-. 6^^., peas, t,s. 6i/., butter, 6d. An important factor in the daily life of Pro- vidence has always been in the crossing of the main stream which limited the early village on the west. Mr. Fred. A. Arnold's careful in- vestigation ^ shows that a bridge at Weybosset, " formerly Wapwayset," or " at the narrow passage," was built before 1660. It was re- paired and renewed at various times. In i66-|- Roger Williams undertook, in a most interest- ing document, to maintain it by co-operative labor from the townsmen and tolls from stran- gers. It was enlarged until, in the middle of our century, tradition claimed it to be the wid- est bridge in the world. Other bridges spanned the river, and in the present year the old Wey- bosset is being replaced by an elaborate steel structure laid on piers of granite. ' Froc. R. I. H. S., July, 1895 483 THE ROGER WILLIAMS MONUMENT. 484 Providence In 1 675-1 676 King Philip's War, in which the Narragansetts joined, raged through south- ern New England, and our little plantation was devastated. The women and children o-ener- ally, with the greater part of the men, sought safety in Newport, Long Island or elsewhere. Thirty houses were burned, chiefly in the north part of the town. After the Indians were beaten, the village was slowly rebuilt. At this time the administration of the settlement was in the hands of the Friends. Their influence was second only to that of the Baptists, until after the Revolution. The only original house standing is the interesting Roger Mowry^ tavern, built in 1653 or earlier, called also the Whipple or Abbott house. Guarded by a large elm, it stands on Abbott Street, which runs eastward from North Main. The town council met there, and tradition says Williams conducted prayer-meetings in it. Some of the sites of the early planters are interesting. Richard Scott, a Quaker and an- tagonist of Williams, lived on the lot next north of St. John's churchyard. Mary Dyre went from here to be hanged on Boston Common. Near Dexter's (afterward Olney's) lane lived ' Isham & Brown, Houses, p. 21. Providence 485 Gregory Dexter. Chad Brown, the ancestor of so many men of mark, Hved on land now occupied by College Street. The purpose of the original allotment was to give fronts upon the " Towne Streete " and river, and equal shares of farm-lands. According to Dorr^ : " This attempt at democratic equality only created a multitude of small estates widely separated, and in some instances nearly or quite a mile apart. Besides his home- lot of five acres, each proprietor had a ' six-acre lot,' at a distance from his abode; and in a few years one or more 'stated common lots,' which he acquired by purchase from the Proprietary, or by their occasional land divid- ends among themselves." The chief holdings were on " Providence Neck," but they gradually extended into " Weybosset Neck." The latter years of Roger Williams were largely occupied by controversies with his neighbors, including his especial opponent, William Harris. The germs of a new State, rendered indestructible by the complete sep- aration of church and state, if slumbering, yet lived in spite of the petty social stagnation of an agricultural community. Early in the eighteenth century, the planta- ' Pla7iting of Providence, p. 43. 486 Providence tion took a new departure. Nathaniel Browne, a shipwright, had been driven out from Massa- chusetts, because he had become " a convert to the Church of England." In 1711 the town granted him one half-acre on " Waybos- set Neck on salt water," and again another half-acre for building vessels. His vessels were among the first to sail from Providence for the West Indies. Horse-carts and vehicles had been used before 1 700 by the wealthy, but Madame Knight's journey to New York from Boston in 1704 shows that the saddle and pillion were the common conveyance along the bridle - paths. Galloping on the Town Street was prohibited in 1681. Through Paw- tucket, the Bostonians came by the present North Burying Ground into the Town Street, then crossed Weybosset Bridge on their way toward the southwest. In the wider part of Weybosset thoroughfare, there stood a knoll, which has been levelled away. The road swept around and created the bulging lines of the street. Travel went on through Apponaug and North Kingstown, over Tower Hill and by the Narragansett shore, over the Pequot path toward New York. At this period, the road was opened toward Hartford, and im- Providence 487 proved communications were made with the surrounding towns. It was not until 1820 that a direct turnpike was opened from Pro- vidence to New London. Of more importance even was the way into the world outward, through the bay. Pardon Tillinghast had been granted land twenty feet square for a storehouse and wharf " over against his dwelling-place," in 1679-80, at the foot of the present Transit Street. There was struggle and competition for " lands by the sea-side," or " forty-foot lots, called warehouse lots," throughout this time, and complete divi- sion of the shore privileges was not effected until 1 749. All these restless movements showed that the town was waking up and sending its commerce abroad into foreign countries. The first effectual street regula- tions were in 1736. The next church organized after the First Baptist followed the faith of the Six-Principle Baptists. The Friends, as they were expelled from Massachusetts, settled in various towns of Rhode Island. Mention has been made of Richard Scott. In 1672 George Fox visited Newport, and he held a meeting " in a great barn" at Providence. Here was a con- 488 Providence testant worthy of our doughty champion, Wilhams. They disputed with voice and pen, recording their angeHc moods in these argu- mentative titles : The Fox Digged out of his Burrowes begged one side of the question ; this was answered with equal logic in A New England Firebrand Quenched. The Friends built a meeting-house about 1 704. The First Congregational Pedobaptist (now Unitarian) Society was formed about 1720. They built a house for worship in 1723, at the corner of College and Benefit Streets, where the Court House now stands. This building became the " Old Town House," when the society moved to its present location at the corner of Benevolent and Benefit Streets. Meanwhile the adherents of the Church of England, yet to become the Protestant Epis- copal Church of the United States, were gathering in our town. There is some dispute as to the first movements, but Dr. McSparran of Narragansett affirmed that he " was the first Episcopal minister that ever preached at Pro- vidence." The society thus formed finally took the name of " St. John's Church, in Pro- vidence." The church was raised in 1722, on the spot where the present building succeeded Providence 489 it in 18 10. It will be observed that these new ecclesiastical developments moved along with the broader commercial life which was animat- ting the community. Any historical student should examine Rhode Island for what it is, and even more for what it is not. Roger Williams and his fellows tried a " lively experiment " as daring as it was fruitful. They severed church and state, cutting off thereby the help of an edu- cated clergy. They founded a political de- mocracy, tempering it with the best aristocracy to be obtained, without the ordinary facilities of education derived through such help. Neither the Williams Independents nor the Quakers followed the common formulas of education, which were generally in the hands of Angli- cans or Presbyterians. This does not prove that societies can safely drop scholastic educa- tion. Many communities have failed for lack of such education. It does prove that the Anglo-American stock engaged in political and economical development will educate itself. At first sight, it was hardly to be expected that isolated and unlettered Pro- vidence would be prominent in resisting Eng- land, or in forming a new government. But 490 Providence she did this, in full share, and the embodi- ment of her citizenship, the type of her repub- lican character, was in one man, Stephen Hopkins — "great not only in capacity and force of mind, but also — what is much rarer — in originative faculty," Born a farmer in 1707, removing to Pro- vidence in 1 73 1, a member of the General Assembly in 1732, Chief Justice in 1739, ^^^ ^^ the committee to form Franklin's plan of colon- ial union at Albany in 1 754, a signer of the Declaration in 1776 — we have here the full meas- ure of a republican citi- JU-^-T-^^i X- / ' . zen, whether by the Stif-nql/UAi^ standard of Cato, or by the later models of Franklin and Washing- ton. " A clear and convincing speaker, he used his influence in Congress in favor of decisive measures," In 1 758 the first postmaster was appointed by Dr. Franklin, The State House on North Main Street was erected in 1 759 ; the Fire Mn^/tiAid FROM APPLETONS' CYCLO. OF AM. BIOG. COPYRIGHT, 1887, BY D. APPLETON 4 CO Providence 491 Department began in 1 763 ; a " vigorous ef- fort " was made for free schools in 1767. A great change was wrought about 1 763 by the opening of Westminster Street. A town named for Mr. Fox's poHtical district had been projected on the west side. It was strangled by the influence of the southern counties. Finally the way across the marsh was laid out. As late as 1771, there were only four houses on the southern and one on the northern side of Westminster Street. Joseph and William Russell, Clark and Nightingale, with James Brown, the father of the four brothers mentioned below, were among the prominent merchants before the Revolution. Next to the political change of colony into State, the greatest monument of the larger Rhode Island is the University. Rhode Isl- and College, to become Brown University in 1804, was located under President Man- ning at Warren in 1 766, By the " resolute spirits of the Browns and some other men of Providence," University Hall was built in 1770. A government stable and barrack dur- ing the Revolution, it has been a beacon-light ever since. 492 Providence We said not much might have been expected of Httle Rhody, by common rules of historic proportion, but the overt acts of the American Revolution began right here in 1772. The oppressive colonial administration, begun by Grenville, was especially vexatious in Narragan- sett Bay. The British cruiser Gaspee, attempt- ing an illegal seizure, ran aground on Namquit, since known as Gaspee Point. The news ran like lightning through the town, that the Hawk was iettered on our shore. Four broth- ers, Nicholas, Joseph. John and Moses, de- scended from Chad Brown, were all promin- ent merchants. John was a man of the time. Afterward, his powder, seized in a raid in the British West Indies, arrived in time to be issued in the retreat from Bunker Hill. Brown planned a daring attack on His Majesty's vessel in James Sabin's inn. The historic room has been transferred bodily by the Talbots to their home at 209 Williams Street. Eight long-boats were provided by Brown and moved under the command of Abraham Whipple, afterward a commodore in the Revolutionary navy. A boat from Bristol joined the party. Lieutenant Duddingston answered the hail of the patriot raiders' and was severely wounded, f\ 494 Providence shedding the first British blood in the War of Independence. Whipple's men boarded the cruiser, drove the crew below, took them off prisoners, then fired and destroyed the vessel. It shows the firm temper and new American loyalty prevailing in the town, that large rewards brought out no information which would effectively prosecute Brown and Whipple or their fellow offenders. Brown was arrested and imprisoned during the occupation of Boston, but for want of sufficient proof he was discharged. Providence contributed its full share to the Revolution. Stephen Hopkins signed the Declaration of Independence with a tremulous hand, but a firm heart. Troops were freely furnished and privateers brought wealth to the town. The second division of the French contingent passed the winter of 1782 in en- campment on Harrington's Lane. The street is now known as Rochambeau Avenue. New- port, hitherto the more important port, lost her commerce through the British occupation. The natural drift of commerce to the farthest in- land waters available was precipitated by these political changes. Newport never recovered her lost prestige, and Providence developed Providence 495 rapidly after the peace. Voyages, which had been mostly to the West Indies with an occa- sional trip to Bilbao and the Mediterranean, soon stretched around the world to harvest the teeming wealth of the Chinese and Indian seas. The General Washington, the first vessel from Providence in that trade, sailed in 1787. Ed- ward Carrington sent out and received the last vessels in 1841. In the early years of the nineteenth century, the profits of the Oriental trade were very great. The manufacture of cotton was attempted by several parties, but it was not established in Providence. Samuel Slater located in Paw- tucket in 1790. He was induced to come to our State through the sagacity, enterprise and abundant capital of Moses Brown. After about a year, a glut of yarns occurred, and Almy, Brown and Slater had accumulated nearly six thousand pounds. Brown said : " Samuel, if thee goes on, thee will spin up all our farms." The manufacture extended rapidly and became the chief source of the prosperity of the State. It absorbed the capital, which was gradually withdrawn from commerce and shipping. An important element in the development of our city has been the free banking system. 49^ Providence The first institution in our State and the second in New England was the Providence Bank, chartered in i 791. Newspapers only slightly affected the life of the eighteenth century. They began, in a humble way, the great part they were to play in later, modern development. The Providence Gazette and Country Journal was first pub- lished in 1 762 by William Goddard. The Manufacturers and Farmers Journal, still continuing its prosperous career, appeared in 1820. The Gazette was enlivened by adver- tisements in verse, of which this is a specimen, from the year i 796 : " A bunch of Grapes is Thurber's sign, A shoe and boot is made on mine. My shop doth stand in Bowen's Lane, And Jonathan Cady is my name." Housekeepers in our day consider the ser- vant-girl question a hard problem, but hear the complaint a century ago. There had been taken away " from the servant girls in this town, all inclination to do any kind of work, and left in lieu thereof, an impudent appearance, a strong and continued thirst for high wages, a gossiping disposition for every sort of amusement, a leering and hankering after persons of the other sex, a Providence 497 desire of finery and fashion, a never-ceasing trot after new places more advantageous for stealing, with a num- ber of contingent accomplishments, that do not suit the wearers. Now if any person or persons will restore that degree of honesty and industry, which has been for some time missing," then this rugged censor offers $500 reward. In 1767 the first regular stage-coach was ad- vertised to Boston. In 1793 Hatch's stages ran to Boston and charged the passengers a fare of one dollar, the same sum which the railway charges to-day. In 1796 a navigable canal was projected to Worcester, John Brown being an active promoter. The project was not carried through until 1828, when the packet-boat Lady Carrington passed through the Black- stone Canal. The enterprise had poor success. John Brown built Washington Bridge across the lower Seekonk, connecting the eastern shore to India Point, where the wealth of Ormus and of Ind was discharged from the aromatic ships. In this period the first steamboat came from New York around Point Judith and connected with stages to Boston. The international disputes concerning the embargo and non-intercourse with Great Brit- ain, which led up to the War of 18 12, found 49^ Providence Providence opposed in opinion to the Execut- ive of the United States. But the opposition was loyal and the government received proper support. Peace was very welcome when it was proclaimed in 1815. This year, a tremend- ous gale swept the ocean into the bay and the bay into the river, carrying ruin in their path. The waters were higher by some seven feet than had ever been known. The fierce winds carried the salt of the seas as far inland as Worcester. Thirty or forty vessels were dashed through the Weybosset Bridge into the cove above. Others were swept from their moorings and stranded among the wharves. Shops were smashed or damaged and the whole devastation cost nearly one million of dollars — a great sum in those days. It was a radical measure of improvement. New streets were opened and better stores rose amid the ruins. South Water and .South West Water Streets date hence, and Canal Street was opened soon after. In 1832 the city government was organized, with Samuel W. Bridgham for mayor. A seri- ous riot occurring the previous year had shown that the old town government was outgrown. The railways to Boston and Stonington Providence 499 changed the course of transportation. In 1848 the Worcester connection, the first in- tersecting or cross Hne in New England, gave direct intercourse with the West. We sent out Henry Wheaton, one of the masters of international law, and we adopted Francis Wayland, — a citizen of the world, — who set an endurinor mark on Rhode Island. Pre- sident of Brown University, 1827- 1855, his work in the American edu- cational system has not yet yielded its full f ru it. He brought teacher and pupil into closer contact by the liv- ing voice. He projected a practical method for elective studies and put it in operation at Brown University in 1850. Started too soon, and with insufficient means, it opened the way to success, when the larger universities in- augurated similar methods after the Civil War. FRANCIS WAYLAND. 500 Providence Nine hundred and forty-six students now at- tend where Manning and Wayland taught. An armed though bloodless insurrection in 1842 brought our State to the verge of revolu- tion. The old charter of 1663 limited suffrage to freeholders and their oldest sons. Thomas Wilson Dorr was the champion of people's suffrage. His party elected him governor with a legislature, by irregular and illegitimate voting. They mustered in arms and tried to seize the State arsenals in our city. Dorr had a strong intellect ; he was a sincere and unself- ish patriot, though perverse and foolish in his conduct of affairs. The suffrage was widened by a new constitution in 1843, which has just been revised by a constitutional commission. The early cotton manufacture was fostered by the well-distributed water-power of Rhode Island. The glacial grinding of the land had left numerous ponds and minor streams, — ad- mirable reservoirs of water-power, — just the facilities needed for weak pioneers. As the century advanced, greater force was needed. About 1847 George H. Corliss bent his tal- ents and energies to extend the power of the high-pressure steam-engine. He adapted and developed better cut-off valves, which preserved Providence 501 the whole expansive force of the steam, stopped off before it filled the cylinder. It was a new lever of Archimedes, and Corliss's machines went over the whole world. This new mas- tery of force stimulated all industries. Our little community showed its customary military spirit in 1861. Governor William Sprague mustered troops with great energy. After the famous Massachusetts 6th, the Rhode Island ist Militia with its ist Battery were the first reinforcements which arrived at Washington. In field artillery, our volunteers were especially proficient. The growth of the population of Providence is shown in the following table : 1708 1,446 1840 23,172 1730 3,916 1850 41,513 1774 4,321 i860 50,666 1800 7,614 1870 68,904 1810 10,071 1880 104,857 1820 11,745 1885 118,070 1830 16,836 1895 145,472 We could not notice all parts of Providence in this cursory survey. Small as well as large implements of iron, jewelry and silver, the invention and immense production of wood- 502 Providence screws, india-rubber, worsted, — all these com- plicated industries have built up an extending and encroaching city, until now three hundred thousand people dwell within a radius of ten miles from our City Hall. Old Providence, the home of Williams and the Quakers, is fading away. The " Towne Streete," its meandering curves gradually straightening, will hardly be recognized a cent- ury hence. The Mowry house, the homes of Stephen and Esek Hopkins, are small, when compared with the mansions of John Brown, Thomas P. Ives, Sullivan Dorr and Edward Carrington ; while the solid comfort prevailing in the eighteenth century, as embodied in these houses, is surpassed, though it may not be bettered, by the more pretentious domestic architecture of our day. The Independent worshipers in the First Baptist and First Conpfreofational churches would feel strano-e under the domes of the beautiful Central Con- gregational. The Anglicans of the first St. John's would be bewildered by the pointed arches of St. Stephen's. The few Catholic immigrants, bringing the Host across the seas with tender care, and resting at St. Peter and St. Paul's, would be amazed by the swarm of 504 Providence well-to-do citizens clustering beneath the mas- sive towers of the Cathedral. The industrial and economic evolution is fully as great as the aesthetic and architectural. The crazy little organism of Almy, Brown and Slater is replaced by the long, whirling shafts, the spindled acres of the Goddards' Ann and Hope Mill at Lonsdale. The homely security of the market house (present Board of Trade), the Providence Bank and the " Arcade " is overshadowed by the City Hall, the Rhode Island Hospital and Rhode Island Hospital Trust Company. University Hall burgeons into the fair arches of Sayles Hall. No medi- eval builder worked more reverently than Al- pheus C. Morse, as he devotedly wrought at his task, getting the best lines into stone and lime. Not always does the work of the modern builders tend toward beauty. The masterly brick arcades of Thomas A. Teft kept the city's approaches for a half-century. Swept away by the more convenient passenger sta- tion of the New York and New Haven Rail- way, they will leave behind many regrets. The magnificent marble State House will lift the observer away from and above all the buildings below. Providence 505 The growth of Providence runs even with the State's, except in the excrescent kixury of Newport in its summer bloom. We cannot stand still like Holland ; we must look outward or decay. The American destiny is reaching out, notwithstanding the caution of the prud- ent, perhaps of the judicious. The mystic Orient, no longer mysterious, beckons from the West instead of the East. It led the Browns, Iveses, Carringtons, Maurans, and their capt- ains, the Holdens, Ormsbees, Paiges and Comstocks, to opulence. Their descendants, with more abundant capital, ready skill and better organization, ought not to lag in the world's march. Men must be forthcoming. There has been always a cosmopolitan flavor in the little State, isolated between the restless intellectual energy of Massachusetts and the steady Puritan development of Connecticut. Boston had more trade than Providence and Newport ; she was not so truly commercial. The larger Franklin went over to Pennsyl- vania, but the next man, Stephen Hopkins, stayed in Rhode Island. The seed which Berkeley planted sprouted in Channing, and that influence went throughout New England. The little State has never been without ideas. 5o6 HARTFORD "THE BIRTHPLACE OF AMERICAN DEMOCRACY" By MARY K. TALCOTT AMONG the historic cities of New Eng- land, Hartford claims a foremost place. Not only was its settlement of great conse- quence at the time, but for historical importance and far-reaching results this colony's claims to attention are second only to those of Plymouth and Boston. The foundation of Hartford was a further application and development of the ideas that brought the Puritans to this country, and, to quote the historian, Johnston, — " Here is the first practical assertion of the right of the people, not only to choose, but to limit the powers of their rulers, an assertion which lies at the foundation of the American system. . . . It is on the banks of the Connecticut, under the mighty preaching of Thomas Hooker, and in the constitution to which he gave life, if not form, that we draw the first breath of that atmosphere 507 5o8 Hartford which is now so familiar to us. The birthplace of American democracy is Hartford." This constitution, first promulgated in Hart- ford, was the first written constitution in history which was adopted by a people and which also organized a government. John Fiske says: " The compact drawn up in the Mayflower's cabin was not, in the strict sense, a constitution, which is a docu- ment defining and limiting the functions of government. Magna Charta partook of the nature of a written constitution as far as it went, but it did not create a government." On the 14th of January, 1639, the freemen of the three towns, Windsor, Hartford, and Wethersfield, assembled at Hartford, and drew up a constitution, consisting of eleven articles, which they called the " Fundamental Orders of Connecticut," and under this law the people of Connecticut lived for nearly two centuries, as the Charter granted by King Charles H., in 1662, was simply a royal recog- nition of the government actually in operation. Another writer says : " We honor the limitations of despotism which are written in the twelve tables ; the repression of monarch- ical power in Magna Charta, in the Bill of Rights, and 5IO Hartford in that whole undefinable creation, as invisible and in- tangible as the atmosphere but like it full of oxygen and electricity, which we call the British Constitution. But in our Connecticut Constitution we find no limitation upon monarchy, for monarchy is unrecognized ; the limitations are upon the legislature, the courts, and executive. It is pure democracy acting through repre- sentation, and imposing organic limitations. Even the suffrage qualification of church membership, which was required by our older sister Colony of Massachusetts, was omitted. Here in a New England wilderness a few pilgrims of the pilgrims, alive to the inspirations of the common law and of the British Constitution, so full of Christianity that they felt the great throb of its heart of human brotherhood, and so full of Judaism that they believed themselves in some special sense the people of God, made a written constitution, to be a supreme and organic law for their State." But for the immediate inspiration of this document we must look to a "lecture," preached by Mr. Hooker on Thursday, May 21, 1638, before the legislative body of free- men. Dr. Bacon says of it : " That sermon, by Thomas Hooker, is the earliest known suggestion of a fundamental lav/, enacted, not by royal charter nor by concession from any previously existing government, but by the people themselves, — a primary and supreme law by which the government is constituted, and which not only provides for the free Hartford 511 choice of magistrates by the people, but also sets the bounds and limitations of the power and place to which each magistrate is called." But we must know something of a people to whom such doctrines were preached — of a people capable of receiving and applying such truths. It is said that three kingdoms were sifted to furnish the men who settled New Eng- land, and it may also be said that the Massa- chusetts Colony was sifted to supply the Connecticut settlers. Three of the eight Massachusetts towns, Dorchester, Watertown, and Newtown (now Cambridge), were not in full agreement with the other five, especially on the fundamental feature of the Massachu- setts polity, the limitation of office-holding and the voting privilege to church-members. At first the majority were unwilling to grant the minority "liberty to remove." John Haynes was made Governor of Massachusetts in 1635, probably with the hope of retaining his friends in the Colony. But their desire to leave was too strong ; small parties of emigrants made their way to the banks of the Connecticut during the year 1635, but the main body of the colonists did not leave until the spring of 1636. Dr. Benjamin Trumbull, the first 512 Hartford historian of Connecticut, writing more than one hundred years ago, says : 'y " About the beginning of June Mr. Hooker, Mr. Stone, and about a hundred men, women, and children took their departure from Cambridge, and travelled more than a hundred miles thro' a hideous and trackless wilderness to Hartford. They had no guide but their compass ; made their way over mountains, thro' swamps, thickets, and rivers, which were not passable but with great difficulty. They had no cover but the heavens, nor any lodgings but those which simple naturo^'afforded them. They drove with them a hundred and sixty head of cattle, and by the way subsisted on the milk of their cows. Mrs. Hooker was borne through the wilderness upon a litter. The people generally carried their packs, arms, and some utensils. They were nearly a fortnight on their journey." Trumbull adds : " This adventure was the more remarkable, as many of this company were persons of figure, who had lived in Eng- land in honor, affluence, and delicacy, and were entire strangers to fatigue and danger." When dismissing these colonists Massachusetts sent with them a governing committee, or commissioners, as they were called. At a meeting of these commissioners, held February 2 1, 1637, the plantation, which had been called Newtown, was named Hartford. As Gover- 514 Hartford nor Haynes was born in the immediate vicinity of the EngHsh Hertford, he probably had much influence in naming the new plantation. On the nth of April, 1639, the first general meeting of the freemen under the constitution was held, and John Haynes was elected the first Governor of Connecticut. This selection shows his active sympathy and co-operation with Hooker, and we can entirely agree with Bancroft, when he says: "They who judge of men by their services to the human race will never cease to honor the memory of Hooker, and of Haynes." But the soil of Hartford h9.s had other occupants ; not only the aboriginal owners of the soil, for when the English came they found a Dutch trading-post established on what is yet known as Dutch Point. The English claimed the territory now compre- hended in the State of Connecticut by virtue of the discoveries of John and Sebastian Cabot in 1497, and more especially in 1498. This territory was included in the grant to the Ply- mouth Company in 1606, but that organization undertook no work of colonization. When the settlers of 1635 came they took possession of this portion of the valley of the Connecticut Hartford 515 under the English flag, and claimed the terri- tory by virtue of patents from the English crown. They paid Sequassen, the Indian chief, who ruled the river Indians, for his lands, and when the Pequots, his over-lords, disputed Sequassen's right to sell, the colonists attacked them, and practically exterminated the tribe. The Dutch settlement originated from discov- eries by Adrian Block, who sailed through the Sound in 1614, and up the Connecticut, or Fresh River, as he called it, in his sloop, The Unrest, as far as the falls, and upon his report to the States-general, a company was formed for trading in the New Netherlands. Only limited privileges were granted to this com- pany, and it was afterwards superseded by the Dutch West India Company, to whom the ex- clusive governmental and commercial rights for the territory were granted. The Dutch were influenced much more by the desire for a lucrative trade with the natives than by any wish to found a colony, and in 1633 they built a fort on the spot still called Dutch Point, in Hartford, for the purpose of protecting their traffic with the Indians, which they had been carrying on for some ten years. This fort was known as the House of Hope, and when the 5i6 Hartford English came they settled all about it, but did not interfere with the Dutch occupation. Nat- urally, there was friction between the two nationalities, and petty trespasses of various kinds were charged by both parties. Finally, after repeated complaints, the Commission- ers of the United Colonies, Massachusetts, Plymouth, Connecticut, and New Haven, met at Hartford, September ii, 1650, with Peter Stuyvesant, Director of the New Netherlands, to consult upon the proper boundaries of the Dutch jurisdiction. The matter was referred to arbitrators, and resulted in a transfer to the English of all the territory lying west of the Connecticut except the land in Hartford actu- ally occupied by the Dutch, the New Nether- lands taking the country east of the river. But this arrangement did not last long, as, in 1653, war was declared between England and Holland, and the colonies were required by Parliament to treat the Dutch as the declared enemies of the Commonwealth of England. Trumbull says : " In conformity to this order the General Court was convened, and an act passed sequestering the Dutch house, lands, and property of all kinds at Hartford, for the benefit of the Commonwealth ; and the Court also Hartford 5 ^ 7 prohibited all persons, whatsoever, from improving the premises by virtue of any former claim or title had, made, or given, by any of the Dutch nation, or any other person, without their approbation." Even after this change of rulers a few of the Dutch traders remained in Hartford, as is shown by references to them on the records, but they all finally returned to the New Netherlands. During the next thirty years the little settle- ment on the banks of the Connecticut con- tinued to grow and prosper, having very little to do with the affairs of the outside world. In 1675 and 1676, King Philip's War caused great alarm and anxiety for a time, but after this conflict was concluded by the subjugation of the Indians, peace and quietness again reigned. Soon after the accession of James II., in 1685, this quiet was however rudely dis- turbed by the issue of a writ of quo wam^anto against the Governor and Company of Con- necticut, summoning them to appear before his Majesty, and show by what warrant they exercised certain powers. In reply, the Colony pleaded the Charter, granted by the King's royal brother, made strong professions of their loyalty, and begged a continuance of their 5i8 Hartford privileges. Two more writs of quo warranto were issued against Connecticut, but she still refused to surrender her Charter, and re- elected Robert Treat as Governor. The Char- ter of Massachusetts had been vacated, and Chalmers, in his History of the American Colojiies, says that " Rhode Island and Con- necticut were two little republics embosomed in a great empire." Rhode Island, however, submitted to his Majesty, so Connecticut stood alone in refusing to surrender her Charter. In the latter part of 1686, Sir Edmund Andros arrived in Boston, bearing his royal commis- sion as Governor of New England. After some correspondence with Governor Treat, who still stood firm, he left Boston for Hart- ford, with several members of his Council and a small troop of horse. When he arrived in Hartford, October 31, 1687, he was escorted by the Hartford County Troop, and met with great courtesy by the Governor and his assist- ants. Sir Edmund was conducted to the Gov- ernor's seat in the council chamber, and at once demanded the Charter. Trumbull says : " The tradition is that Governor Treat strongly repre- sented the great expense and hardships of the colonists in planting the country, the blood and treasure which Hartford 519 Ihey had expended in defending it, both against the savages and foreigners ; to what hardships and dangers he himself had been exposed for that purpose ; and that it was like giving up his life now to surrender the patent and privileges so dearly bought, and so long enjoyed. The important affair was debated and kept in suspense until the evening, when the Charter was brought and laid upon the table, where the Assembly were sitting. By this time great numbers of people were assembled, and men sufficiently bold to enterprise whatever might be necessary, or expedient. The lights were instantly extinguished, and one Captain Wadsworth, of Hartford, in the most silent and secret manner carried off the Charter, and secreted it in a large hollow tree, fronting the house of the Honorable Samuel Wyllys, then .one of the Magistrates of the Colony. The people appeared all peaceable and orderly. The candles were officiously re- lighted, but the patent was gone, and no discovery could be made of it, or of the person who had conveyed it away." Sir Edmund was disconcerted, but declared the government of the colony to be in his own hands, annexed Connecticut to Massa- chusetts and the other New England colonies, appointed officers, and returned to Boston. After the downfall of Andros, in 1689, Gov- ernor Treat resumed his position as Governor of Connecticut, and the Charter reappeared from its seclusion, and continued to be the organic law of Connecticut, although in Parlia- 520 Hartford ment, during the remainder of the colonial period, various attempts were made to have it abrogated. But the Charter Oak, where tra- dition declared that the document was con- cealed, continued to be a sacred and venerated object until its fall, August 21, 1856. THE CHARTER OAK. A people that have no history are the hap- piest, therefore we may assume that Hartford was a happy and flourishing town during the remainder of the colonial period, and even Hartford 521 during the Revolution there is but Httle to tell of Hartford. Its situation, so far re- moved from the seacoast, secured it from the attacks of the British troops, and it was for that very reason a safe and desirable place for the meetings of Generals Washington and Rochambeau, when they wished to arrange the plans for the campaigns that ended with the surrender of Yorktown. The first of these historic meetings took place September 1 7, 1 780. Rochambeau came from Newport through Eastern Connecticut, and Washing- ton rode from New Windsor on the Hudson with a guard of twenty-two dragoons. The meeting took place in the public square on the site of the present post-office, and as the two tall, fine-looking commanders-in-chief ap- proached each other bowing, an eye-witness said that it was like the meeting of two na- tions. The following year another meeting took place at Wethersfield. During the colonial period there was very little literary production in America, except sermons and theological treatises, and Hart- ford was no exception to this rule. Her first author was one of her founders, the Rev. Thomas Hooker, " The Light of the Western 522 Hartford Churches." His writings consisted exclusively of sermons. They were first published in London, and but few have been reprinted in this country. No preacher of great reputation succeeded him, nor any writers whatever. But during the Revolution a star arose on the hori- zon, — McFingal. The first part of the poem appeared as independent verses in the Con- necticut Courant in 1775. General Gage had issued a fierce proclamation, threatening to exempt from general pardon some of the Continental leaders, and Trumbull's poem burlesqued the manifesto. It was at once reproduced in the Philadelphia papers, and undoubtedly did a very important work in stimulating the thought and passion of the American Revolution. About 1782 the whole work was published by Messrs. Hudson & Goodwin, " near the Great Bridge, Hartford." Tradition states that the scene of the " Town Meeting" refers to the old South Church in this city. Nathaniel Patten, an enterprising, and not over-scrupulous printer in Hartford, issued a second edition of McFingal, without the author's consent, and it is an interesting fact thrit out of this piracy of Trumbull's work here in Hartford grew the national copyright law. Hartford 523 Trumbull and Noah Webster both exerted themselves strenuously in favor of such a law, and, in 1783, the General Assembly of Con- necticut passed an " Act for the Encourage- ment of Literature and Genius," which secured to authors their copyright within the State. The personal exertions of Noah Webster in defense of his spelling-book led to the passage of similar laws by the legislatures of other States, and finally to the passage of a general law by Congress, modelled on the Connecticut act of 1 783. All the literature of that period in America bears the impress of the golden age of Queen Anne, the Spectator and the Tatler, Addison and Steele ; and McFingal reminds the reader now of Hiidibras, now of the Dunciad. John Trumbull was born in Watertown, Con- necticut, then Westbury, April 24, 1750. Both on his father's side and his mother's he was of the pure Brahmin stock of New England, and through his mother he was related to Jonathan Edwards, Timothy Dwight, his fellow-poet, and many other writers of a later time. He exhibited marvellous precocity, and, his father being engaged in preparing a youth of sev- enteen for examination at Yale, the boy 524 Hartford of seven was so eager to join in the elder youth's studies that his father allowed him to go through the same course of Greek, Latin, and Mathematics. Both the lads passed, and were admitted members of the college, but the boy of seven was not allowed to pro- ceed with his college course until he was older. He early began writing essays of a satirical nature, and while a tutor at his Alma Mater he wrote The Progress of Dulness, a keen and stinging satire on contemporary life. It also shows, like McFingal, the technical precision of the literary artist. The year 1774 Trum- bull, spent in the law-ofifice of John Adams, in Boston, then returned to New Haven, and in 1 78 1 took up his residence in Hartford, where he remained until 1825, when he went to Detroit to live with a married daughter, and died there in 1 83 1. In his later life he gave up litera- ture for the law, and was at different times State Attorney for Hartford County, Repre- sentative to the State Legislature, Judge of the Superior Court (1801-1819), and Judge of the Supreme Court of Errors (1808-1819). In the first decade of our independence the " Hartford Wits " made this little provincial capital a brilliant intellectual centre, and an Hartford 525 important focus of political influence. The original members of the association or club were, Dr. Lemuel Hopkins, John Trumbull, Joel Barlow, and David Humphreys. We may call it remarkable, because, at that time, when Boston was as barren of literary talent as she has since been prolific, this little town of three thousand inhabitants boasted at least four poets who had gained a national reputa- tion. Hopkins was born in Waterbury, Con- necticut, in I 750, was a distinguished physician, and one of the founders of the Connecticut Medical Society. He died in Hartford in 1 80 1, and his grave may be seen in the old Center burying-ground. No edition of his col- lected poems has ever been published. They consisted in great part of his contributions to the Anarchiad, the Political Greenhouse, and the Echo, which were serial satires in verse by the Hartford Wits. Th.^ A ?ia re hiad resem- bled the Rolliad of Frere and Canning, and with the Echo contained a series of social and political satires. Hartford at this time, became and for twenty years thereafter was, the liter- ary headquarters of the Federalist or Conser- vative party, which favored a strong, general government, and opposed French democracy. 526 Hartford In consequence, as party feeling ran so high, it became a mark for obloquy and vituperation among the Jeffersonians, which gave it an honorable resemblance to Boston in the anti- slavery times. David Humphreys was born in Derby, Connecticut, in 1753, served honorably dur- ing the Revolution, and had the distinction of being Washington's aid-de-camp. He also held, after the war, the position of secretary to the commissioners — Franklin, Jefferson, and Adams — appointed to negotiate treaties of commerce with various European powers. Joel Barlow is perhaps the best known of any of the Wits, and but a small portion of his career was passed in Hartford. He took up his residence in our town in 1782, just after leaving the army. He was then engaged in writing his best known poem, the epic Vision of Columbits, but he did much other literary work, and was also the editor of a weekly newspaper, called The American Merc2iry\ for which he wrote many essays, said to be the precursors of the modern editorial. In 1787, he completed the Vision of Cobunbiis, and it was published by subscription and dedicated to Louis XVI., King of France. During the Hartford 527 next year, 1788, Barlow left Hartford to go abroad ; he remained in Europe for seven- teen years, and when he returned took up his residence in Washington, Finally, going abroad as Ambassador to France, he died in Poland, while following Napoleon then en- gaged in his Russian campaign. Richard Alsop and Theodore Dwight, Senior, were admitted into the coterie of the Hartford Wits, and wrote much of the Echo, and a few lines in this series were also contributed by Drs. Mason F. Cogswell and Elihu H. Smith. The Echo was a sort of Yankee Diinciad. It contained many local allusions, as to the Blue Laws, the Windham Frogs, etc., and was also the vehicle of much political satire on the Democrats. Theodore Dwight, one of the Echo poets, was editor of the ConnccticiU Mirror, and also secretary of the famous Hartford Convention. No political subject has ever been the theme of more gross misrepresentation or more con- stant reproach than the assembly of delegates from the New England States which met at Hartford in December, 18 14. After the war of 1 81 2 had continued two years, our public affairs were in a deplorable condition. The 528 Hartford army intended for defending the sea-coast had been sent to the borders to attack Canada ; a British squadron was lying in the Sound to blockade the harbors on the Connecticut coast, and to intercept our coasting trade ; the banks, south of New England, had suspended the payment of specie ; our ship- ping lay in our harbors, embargoed, disman- tled, and perishing ; the Treasury of the United States was nearly exhausted, and a general disheartenment prevailed throughout the country. In this situation of affairs a number of gentlemen in Massachusetts be- lieved that a convention of prominent men might do good. Many petitions from numer- ous towns in Massachusetts were received, stating the sufferings of the country in conse- quence of the embargo and the war, and Gov- ernor Strong summoned a special meeting of the Massachusetts Legislature in October, 1 8 14, when a resolution was passed appointing delegates to a convention to be held in Hart- ford. The Connecticut Legislature was in session at the same time, and received a com- munication from the Massachusetts body, re- questing them to join in appointing delegates to the convention. This they did, and seven OLD STATE HOUSE, NOW CITV HALL. 529 530 Hartford delegates were sent. On December 15, 1 8 14, the convention, numbering twenty-six delegates, representing Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Connecticut, Rhode Island, and Vermont, met in the council chamber of the State House, now the City Hall of Hartford. Among the delegates were men of such as- sured position as Harrison Gray Otis, George Cabot, William Prescott, the father of the historian, and Stephen Longfellow, the father of the poet, from Massachusetts ; Chaun- cey Goodrich, Governor John Treadwell, Roger Minot Sherman, and James Hillhouse, of Connecticut. Their deliberations contin- ued for three weeks, and their sittings were held with closed doors, a fact which was brought up against them by their political ad- versaries as evidence of dark and nefarious designs. During the sessions a small body of recruits for the army, then in Hartford, were paraded in a threatening manner by the officer in command. The proceedings re- sulted in the adoption of a report and the passage of resolutions recommending amend- ments to the Constitution of the United States, Among the recommendations was one proposing that representative and direct Hartford 531 taxation should be apportioned according to the respective numbers of free persons in the States, excluding slaves and Indians. This document was immediately published, and was read with great eagerness. Those who expected to discover sentiments of a seditious and treasonable nature were disappointed. The report expressed an ardent attachment to the integrity of the republic, and its sentiments were liberal and patriotic. A short time after the publication of this document the news of the declaration of peace was received. The people, without waiting to hear the provisions of the treaty, showed their joy by bonfires and illuminations, — a striking commentary upon the character of the war and the general feel- ine about it. The war beino^ over, the work of the Hartford Convention was no longer needed, and the jarring interests of the State and Federal governments were harmonized. During the last century the chief business of Hartford was the trade with the West Indies. There was also some trafficking with Ireland and with Lisbon, timber being exported to the first named, and fish to the latter. From 1750 to 1830, Hartford not only imported goods from the West Indies, but 532 Hartford was also a distributing centre for the surround- ing country, and for the region that stretches northward to the sources of the Connecticut. During the first thirty years of this century the wharves on the river bank were busthng with traffic and Hned with vessels, often three or four rows deep. Large warehouses ex- tended along the banks of the river, where beef and pork were packed for the export trade, great quantities being brought down the river in brine, and inspected and repacked here. The numerous scows and fiat-boats in which the up-river trade was carried on, were loaded on their return voyage with sugar, rum, molasses, coffee, salt and other West Indian commodities. S. G. Goodrich, in his Recollec- tions of a Lifetime, describes the city as a centre of the West India trade, and as smelling of rum and molasses. The inland transpor- tation of goods was carried on by lines of freight-wagons running to Westfield, Granby, Monson, Brimfield, Norfolk, Canaan, and the towns in Berkshire County. There were also packet lines running to Boston, New York, Albany, Nantucket, Baltimore, Norfolk, and Richmond. But the building of the Boston and Albany, and of the New York and New Hartford 533 Haven railroads cut off gradually all the in- land and up-river commerce from Hartford, and diverted trade into other directions. This obliged the merchants of Hartford to turn their energies to other lines of business. One of the most successful of these, and one in which Hartford now holds a unique position, is the insurance business. Nowhere else has the business of fire insurance reached such magnitude as in Hartford. The aggre- gate capital of the six fire insurance companies in the city is $10,250,000, which exceeds one quarter of the capital of all the fire companies in the country. It is supposed that the busi- ness began in marine underwriting, as Hart- ford formerly had such large shipping interests and so many vessels concerned in trade with the West Indies. An insurance office was opened in Wethersfield in 1777 by Barnabas Dean, presumably for shipping. Fire insur- ance policies were issued in i 794, and in i 795 a company was formed for the purpose of un- derwriting on "vessels, stock, merchandize, etc." In 1 8 10 the oldest of the present Hart- ford fire insurance companies was formed, — the Hartford, with a capital of $150,000. All the early insurance companies made the mistake 534 Hartford of dividing profits in periods of prosperity, re- serving little or nothing for a day of adversity. But the Hartford met with a severe lesson in December, 1835, when the great fire in New York swept away the capital of the company. All losses were paid in full, and the confi- dence inspired by this policy increased the business of the company fivefold. In 1871 the great Chicago fire endangered the exist- ence of the strongest Hartford companies, and five of them were forced to discontinue. But the able management of the four that paid their losses and continued to do business has given the Hartford companies a good reputa- tion. The life insurance business was also early organized in Hartford, which was the earliest place, except the already great cities of New York, Boston, and Philadelphia, to estab- lish this system firmly, and several of the Hartford companies rank among the leading institutions in this business in the country. In Hartford was founded the first accident in- surance company organized in America. Hartford possesses a number of well-known educational and philanthropic institutions, — Trinity College ; the Wadsworth Athenaeum, containing the Watkinson Library of Refer- Hartford 535 ence, the Connecticut Historical Society's collections, the picture gallery and public library ; the Theological Seminary, the School for the Deaf, the Retreat for the Insane ; all founded in the first half of this century. First, chronologically, comes " The American Asylum for the Education and Instruction of Deaf and Dumb Persons," the mother-school of all similar institutions in this country. In 1887, when the recurring years brought about the one hundredth anniversary of the birth of Thomas Hopkins Gallaudet, the founder of this school for the deaf, the day was cele- brated by all deaf-mutes throughout the United States, and commemorated by public services and Pfeneral festivities. In a buildincj on Main Street, now constituting the southern end of the City Hotel, the American Asylum gathered its first seven pupils, April 15, 181 7. The starting-point of the enterprise was the eager desire of Dr. Mason F. Cogswell to secure an education for his daughter, Alice, a deaf-mute, whose infirmity was caused by an attack of spotted fever. In 18 15, several prominent gentlemen in Hartford took steps towards the organization of such a school at the instance of Dr. Cogswell, and decided to send the Rev. 536 Hartford T. H. Gallaudet, then just out of the Andover Theological Seminary, to Europe, for the pur- pose of acquiring the art of instructing deaf- mutes. Accordingly, Mr. Gallaudet proceeded to Paris, where he was cordially received by the Abbe Sicard, the Director of the famous Institution for Deaf-Mutes, founded some years earlier by the Abbe de I'Epee. Here every facility was accorded to Mr. Gallaudet, and when he was ready to return to America, one of Sicard's pupils — Laurent Clerc by name, — offered his services as an instructor in the school to be founded in America, and as he was himself a deaf-mute he was a livingf demonstration of the fact that a very high de- gree of education was possible to deaf-mutes. In 1818, the number of pupils having increased to sixty, it appeared to the directors that their work was likely to become national, and it seemed proper to invoke the aid of Congress. A petition was accordingly sent to Congress, and was strongly supported by the Connecti- cut members, by the Speaker, Henry Clay, and by many other influential and philanthropic men. Congress responded by an appropri- ation of an entire township, comprising 23,000 acres of land. This grant was judiciously Hartford 537 converted into cash and invested, and the income thus received has enabled the insti- tution to receive pupils at about one half the actual cost of their education. The build- ing now in use was completed in 182 1, Since 1825 pupils have been received from the States of Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Maine, Vermont, and Rhode Island, under an arrangement made with the official au- thorities in those States, While a large pro- portion of the instructors have always been college graduates, at the same time indus- trial instruction has, since 1823, been an es- sential feature in the training, thus render- ing the pupils self-supporting members of society. Another evidence of the philanthropic feel- ing animating the citizens of Hartford about the same date as the foundation of the Deaf and Dumb Asylum, was the establishment in 1824, of the Connecticut Retreat for the In- sane. At that time there were only two other institutions in the country for the exclusive care of insane persons, and the importance of restorative treatment was but little under- stood. Many citizens of Hartford signed the petition 53^ Hartford requesting the General Assembly to pass an act of incorporation for Washington College, and when the news of its passage was received, May 1 6, 1823, their joy was manifested by the liehtinof of bonfires and the firine of can- non. The people of Hartford surpassed all others in raising money for the new insti- tution. More than three fourths of the sum appropriated by the State, $50,000, was con- tributed by them, and their city was therefore selected as the seat of the Collesfe. A fine site was secured on an eminence overlookinof the Little River, the hill now crowned by the beautiful State Capitol, and in 1825 two build- ings were ready for occupation. The College was opened under the presidency of the Rt. Rev. Thomas C. Brownell, Bishop of Con- necticut, and at all times since its foundation the institution has been administered by men of learninor and wisdom. The name was changed in 1844 to Trinity College. In 1871, when the city of Hartford decided to offer to the State a site for the new Capitol, it was proposed to purchase the College campus for that purpose and in February, 1872, the trustees sold the grounds to the city, reserving the right to use them for five or six years. In 1873 ^ site of i Vk^a STATUE OF ISRAEL PUTNAM. J. Q. A. WARD. SCULPTOR. 539 54^ Hartford some eighteen acres on the slope of Rocky Hill, commanding a beautiful view in every direction, was purchased by the College. Ground was broken on Commencement Day, 1875. with impressive ceremonies, and two large buildings were ready for occupation in 1878. The erection of the Northam Gateway, in 1 88 1, unites the buildings and completes the western side of the proposed quadrangle. The lofty towers have added greatly to the appearance of the structure. The style of ar- chitecture is secular Gothic of the early French type. The buildings of the Theological Seminary on Broad Street attract attention by their size and dignity. The institution was established in East Windsor in 1833, and was removed to Hartford in 1865, occupying the old Wads- worth house and other buildings on Prospect Street. In 1879, the present structure was occupied, and it has since been enlarged by the addition of the Case Library. The first great manufacturing enterprise in Hartford, and still perhaps the best known and most important, is the Colt's Patent Fire Arms Manufacturing Company, established by Colonel Samuel Colt in 1S48. Colonel Colt Hartford 541 planned his works on a mag-nihcent scale, and time has proved the wisdom of his plans. To pistols, rifles, and shotguns the company has added, from time to time, the manufacture of gun machinery, Gatling guns, printing-presses, portable steam-engines, and Colt automatic guns. Aside from the output of weapons and machinery, the Colt works have been of great value as an educat- ing force in applied mechanics, and they have turned out many men who have founded large manufacturing establishments. The armory grounds now in- clude two memorial buildings, the Church of the Good Shepherd, built in 1868 by Mrs. Colt, in memory of her husband, and a compan- ion to this, built in 1896, a parish house, in memory of Commodore Caldwell H. Colt, a structure complete and satisfying in all if 1 1 KENEY MEMORIAL TOWER. 542 Hartford its decorations and appointments. Another memorial structure in the city is just ap- proaching completion, — the Keney Memorial Tower. In this, Hartford will possess an architectural feature unique in American cities, — a Norman bell and clock tower, with fine carvinofs. The Messrs. Keney have left another mem- orial of themselves in the Keney Park, a fine addition to the Hartford park system. The beauty of Hartford and its desirability as a residence have both been much increased by the munificence of individual citizens, and the wise policy of the city government in creating a system of public parks. The first of these, Bushnell Park, the city owes to the wise fore- thought of Dr. Horace Bushnell, one of her most distinguished citizens. Laid out in 1859, it is, probably, after Central Park in New York, the oldest public city park in the coun- try, and it was obtained in the face of much opposition by a man possessed of great intel- lect and foresight — for whom it was named in 1876. The building of the Capitol on the brow of the hill overlooking the Park, and the construction of the Soldiers' Memorial Arch in 1886, have added much to its beauty and com- Hartford 543 pleteness. In 1894, Hartford acquired another park the gift of Col. Albert A. Pope, the head of the Pope Manufacturing Company. This park is situated in the south part of the city. THE CAPITOL. Very soon afterwards, by the will of Charles M. Pond, the city became possessed of a valu- able tract of land on Prospect Hill, the former residence of Mr. Pond. This he desired should be called Elizabeth Park in memory of his wife. Now the Pope, Elizabeth, Keney, and Riverside Parks, the latter on the north mead- 544 Hartford ows and near the city water-works, make a boulevard around Hartford, which will add much in the future to the beauty of this already beautiful city. After the brilliant galaxy of the " Hartford Wits " disappeared, a graver class of liter- erary men took their places : Noah Webster, with his spelling-book and dictionary (he was born in Hartford, West Division, Oct, i6, 1758); Samuel G. Goodrich (Peter Parley); Mrs. Lydia Huntley Sigourney, who obtained the title of " the American Hemans," an almost lifelong resident of Hartford, where her first volume of poems was published in 181 5 ; George Denison Prentice and John Greenleaf Whittier both lived in Hartford for a time, doing editorial work, when they were yet young and unknown men ; Henry Barnard, LL. D., distinguished for his labors in the cause of education, was born in Hartford in 181 1, and is still enjoying an honored old age in his native city. But the man of highest genius in Hartford's list of authors during the first half of this century was Horace Bushnell. He came to the city in 1833, as pastor of the North Church, and remained until his death, in 1876. His sermons and essays all show SOLDIERS' MEMORIAL ARCH. 545 546 Hartford great imagination and beauty of style, as well as great power of thought. In 1864, Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe, who had once before c^^^^E*^'^^^^::^ lived in Hartford as a teacher in the famous school of her sister, Miss Catharine Beecher, again took up her residence in the city, and continued to live here until her death, in 1896. DR. HORACE BUSHNELU FROM A CRAYON DRAWING BY S. W. R0W8E. 547 548 Hartford During this period a number of her later works were written. Of Hving authors, Charles Dudley Warner and Samuel L. Clemens (Mark Twain) have a world-wide reputation. Mr. Warner came to Hartford in i860, as one of the editors of the Press, and subsequently became one of the owners and editors of the Coui'-ant, with which paper he is still associated. His Summer in a Garden, which first brought him into notice, appeared in the columns of his newspaper in 1870, and since that time he has written many ■essays, novels, and books of travel. Mr. Clemens was born in Florida, Missouri, No- vember 30, 1835, has lived in Hartford since 1 87 1, and all his books which have appeared :since 1872 have been written in our city, ■except his \-dX&?A., Following the Equator. John Fiske, the historian and essayist, was born in Hartford in 1842, but he left the city at an early age, and his reputation has been won elsewhere. The same can be said of Edmund Clarence Stedman, the poet and critic, who was born in Hartford in 1833. James Hammond Trumbull, LL. D., born in Stonington in 182 1, but almost a lifelong resident of Hartford, dying there in 1897, was Hartford 549 one of the most distinouished philologists and antiquarians in the country, and his great famil- iarity with the Indian tongues made him an authority on that subject. Dr. Trumbull's brother, Rev. Henry Clay Trumbull, D.D., of Philadelphia, since 1875 editor of the Sun- day School Times, was a resident of our city from the year 1851 to 1875, ^'^d during that period he published some of his religious and biographical works. Two other members of the same family, a sister and daughter of Dr. J. H. Trum- bull, Mrs. Annie Trumbull Slosson, J- hammond trumbull, ll.d. and Miss Annie Eliot Trumbull, have dis- tinguished themselves in literature, by their novels and short stories, some being character studies of New England life. In this line also another Hartford writer excelled, Mrs. Rose Terry Cooke, who was born in Hartford in 1827, and died in Pittsfield, Mass., in 1892. 550 Hartford She contributed many graphic stories of rural New England life to the pages of the Atlantic Monthly, Harpers, and other magazines, which stories were afterwards collected and pub- lished in book form. Richard Burton, born in Hartford in 1858, recently appointed Pro- fessor of Enoflish Literature in the Univer- sity of Minnesota, has already made a name among the younger men as a poet and critic. Frederick Law Olmsted, born in Hartford, November 10, 1822, now a resident of Brook- line, Mass., is well known as one of the fore- most landscape-gardeners in this country, and he has also made valuable contributions to the literature of travel and horticulture. Many other persons, either natives or residents of Hartford, have won renown in various fields of authorship. In the art world, Hartford claims Frederick E. Church and William Ged- ney Bunce, the painters, E. S. Bartholomew, the sculptor, and William Gillette, the actor and playwright, all natives of the city. Hartford citizens have borne their part in the councils of the nation. Gideon Welles was Secretary of the Navy under President Lincoln during the Civil War, and until 1869. Isaac Toucey held the same office under Presi- Hartford 551 dent Buchanan. Hon. John M. Niles was Post- master-General in 1840, under Van Buren, and also Senator for a long period. The Hon. Mar- shall Jewell was appointed by President Grant United States Minister to Russia in 1873, ^^^ in 1874 he was recalled to enter the Cabinet as Postmaster General. In later years the Hon. James Dixon and General J. R. Hawley have been prominent in the United States Senate. Hartford has increased largely in popula- tion during the last decade, and the numerous trolley lines that have been built, running like the spokes of a wheel into the surrounding country, have contributed much to the pros- perity of the city. Many handsome residences have been built, new streets have been laid out, and our city appears to have entered upon a career that promises increased wealth and success. NEW HAVEN "THE CITY OF ELMS" By FREDERICK HULL COGSWELL THE main incidents in the history of New Haven have a flavor of romance. Even the original settlement, usually a prosy affair, was brought about by the chance letter of a victori- ous soldier. On the 26th of June, 1637, a com- pany of wealthy English immigrants sailed into Boston harbor, undecided as to its final des- tination. It was led and directed by Reverend John Davenport, a Non-conformist clergyman of London, and Theophilus Eaton, a retired merchant of the same town, who had once re- presented the British crown at the court of Denmark. The company had thought to settle near Boston, but a theological controversy that threatened to envelop the whole jurisdiction led to a change of plan, and for several months the party remained at Boston in a state of indecision. 553 554 New Haven Meanwhile, the Pequod war was raging along the coast of Long Island Sound, and as the beaten braves were being driven westward toward the valley of the Hudson, their pursu- ers came upon a spot of surprising beauty. Its charms detained them long enough to note its details. There was a broad wooded plain skirted with green and fertile meadows, bounded on either side by a gently flowing river, and guarded on the north by giant cliffs. Here and there the smoke of Indian camp-fires curled gracefully above the tree-tops, and bark-canoes darted swiftly about in the placid waters of the bay. The place was occupied by friendly na- tives, anxious for protection against their tribal enemies. Game abounded in the forests ; the streams were alive with fish ; and the piles of oyster-shells along the shore told of bivalvian riches beneath the glistening waves. The English officers, elated with victory and de- lighted with the newly discovered land, wrote enthusiastic descriptions to their friends at Bos- ton. As one with an eye to the material ad- vantages expressed it : " It hath a fair river, fit for harboring of ships, and abounds with rich and goodly meadows." The immigrants at once determined to in= TEMPLE STREET. 555 55^ New Haven vestigate, and Eaton, taking a small vessel, sailed down the coast and into the harbor of Quinnipiac. He and his companions lost no time in deciding as to their future home. He left seven men to spend the winter with the Indians, and returned to Boston. Those who remained lived in a hut near the shore, and be- fore spring came, one of them died. His name was Beecher, and he has been claimed as the ancestor of the Beecher family in this country. His wife and children came with the main party when the cold weather had passed. A few rods to the west of this first hut stood, in after years, the forge of Lyman Beecher's father. It is uncertain just what name the Indians applied to the town. The early spelling varied so much that nearly forty different combina- tions of letters have come down to us, as re- presenting it. It is apparent that the settlers were unable to acquire the aboriginal pronun- ciation, or to correctly express it in English. They finally adopted " Quinnipiac " as being more euphonious than " Ouilillioak " " Ouillipi- age " and " Oueenapiok." It was with feelings not easily described that the newcomers sailed into the harbor and New Haven 557 looked upon their future home. There they were to spend the rest of their Hves, there they would be laid to rest when their earthly labors were done, and there would dwell their poster- ity, to represent the principles for which they had sought a new world. In the land of their birth they could not worship as they chose. Unless they followed the rule set down by others, they were not only called heretics and emissaries of the devil, but were im- prisoned and fined, and subjected to great personal indignity. They felt that they were being deprived of a natural right, and despairing of better times at home, came to find a place where they could enjoy uninter- rupted the free exercise of conscience. They were obliged for a time to live on the boat in which the voyage had been made. The first Sunday morning all came ashore to wor- ship under the branches of an oak-tree which JOHN DAVENPORT. FROM A PORTRAIT IN POSSESSION OF YALE COLLEGE. 55^ New Haven stood on the bank of a small stream that emptied into the bay. It was in the month of April, 1638, and the leaves were not far forth, but under that canopy the first sermon ever heard in that region was preached. This famous tree stood for more than a hundred years after, and when it fell a tablet was placed on a near-by building to show succeeding gen- erations where the forefathers first met for public worship. A compact was made with the Indians, and the town was laid out by John Brockett, a civil engineer, whose love of a Puritan maiden had led him to abandon brilliant prospects of preferment and cross the seas. First, a large tract was apportioned for a market-place, then the streets were plotted in regular squares sur- rounding it. The dwellings ranged from mere huts to mansions of grand proportions. Eat- on's house contained nineteen fireplaces, and was one of the few houses in the country where sufficient books were found to form a library. Romance soon gave place to tragedy. An Enoflishman was found murdered in the neieh- boring woods, and an Indian so near as to invite suspicion. He was arrested and brought to the market-place. No laws had been framed, New Haven 559 but an agreement had been made soon after landing, that all disputes should be settled according to Scripture. An inquiry estab- lished the Indian's guilt, but there was doubt as to the Scriptural text to apply. The Old Testament rule, " Whoso sheddeth man's blood, by man shall his blood be shed," made the outlook gloomy for the prisoner, while he saw hope in the more recent dispensation, " Go and sin no more." The Puritan forefathers leaned to the conservative view of the case, laid the Indian over a log, chopped off his head, and "pitched it upon a pole in the market-place." The first public building to be erected, as might have been expected, was a meeting- house. This was built near the centre of the market-place, and the present edifice stands to-day on nearly the same spot. The meeting- house was not merely a place for public wor- ship, but town-hall, voting-booth, court-room and forum as well. In summer it was a pleas- ant place in which to sit, with bird-songs and odor-laden breezes floating in through the open windows, and the long-drawn, monotonous drone of the parson's voice lulling to dreamy drowsiness. But in winter, with the mercury 560 New Haven twenty degrees below zero ; with tingling ears and aching nose ; with shivering frames and feet like cakes of ice, and every man's breath show- ing white on the frosty air, hell-fire seemed less terrible than the preacher would have it appear. There were means, however, of getting peri- odically thawed. Those who lived in town could repair to their homes at the intermis- sion, while the farmers sought their " sab- bada-housen " (Sabbath-day houses). These were small huts, each containing a chimney and rude fireplace, and were grouped irregu- larly about the meeting-house. Here the stiffened limbs were rubbed and toasted, and the creature comforts of pies and cakes and home-brewed ale were enjoyed. Stern times were those, and many a mother saw her ten- der child laid away in the little burying-ground, chilled to death by the bitter cold of the meet- ing-house. While the hearts of these early Puritans beat warmly, their rigid views of life and duty sometimes led to acts of great severity. Pub- lic whipping was resorted to, not only as a punishment supposed to be fit for the culprit, but as a warning and a deterrent. It is hard ROGER SHERMAN. 561 PHOTOGRAPHED FROM STATUE ON THE EAST FRONT OF THE CAPITOL AT HARTFORD. 562 New Haven to imagine a father handing a child over to the courts for pubHc humihation, yet Richard Malbon, a magistrate, sat at the trial of his daughter Martha, and condemned her to be flogged at the whipping-post. The shameful performance took place on the northwest corner of the market-place, close by the schoolhouse, so that the youthful mind need not fail to understand that the way of the transgressor was hard. The " Witch Trial " created some excite- ment in the early days. Elizabeth Godman was the town scold, and kept her neighbors in a state of perpetual worry. Her chief delight was in creating and perpetuating feuds. She had been warned by the magistrates that her way of life was objectionable and might lead to trouble. One day, in spite of the judi- cial warning, she called at Mistress Hooke's and asked for home-brewed beer. A mug was given her, but she used only part of it. The next day the whole barrel of " beare " was found to be sour. Here were symptoms of witchcraft ! Soon after one of Goody Thorpe's chickens died, and when they opened it they found its gizzard full of water and worms ! Suspicion began to turn to certainty. This New Haven 563 led to a quarrel between Elizabeth Godman and Mistress Bishop, and in consequence the latter's baby was born dead. To cap the climax, Mr. Nash's boy had a fit of sickness that puzzled the doctors, and it was thought best, in order to prevent further calamities, to have Elizabeth Godman arrested and tried as a witch. In good old Salem her chances of escape might have been narrow ; but while her judges believed in witchcraft and were ready to punish it by death, she was triumphantly acquitted, and wagged her spiteful tongue un- molested the rest of her life. The most dramatic event in the early history of the colony was the coming of the regicides. Major-Generals Edward Whalley and William GofTe, distinguished leaders in the parliament- ary army, had sat on the commission that had condemned Charles I. to the block. Both men stood close to Cromwell during the period of the protectorate, Whalley being Cromwell's cousin, and Goffe a son-in-law of Whalley. Both acted as shire governors and were close personal advisers of the Lord Protector. At Cromwell's death Goffe was considered a prob- able successor, but the monarchy was restored in the person of Charles II., and all who had 564 New Haven been connected with the trial and execution of the late king were obliged to flee for their lives. Whalley and Goffe sailed for Boston and for a time lived there openly, but a royal warrant for their arrest finally came, and Gov- ernor Endicott issued orders for their appre- hension. The only men in the country to whom they could look for protection were Mr. Davenport, a known sympathizer and a friend of Cromwell, and William Jones, whose father had been taken as a regicide and executed in London. The hunted men accordingly started for New Haven on horseback, arriving on the 7th of March, 1661. They went to the house of Mr. Davenport and for the next three weeks were concealed there, or across the street by William Jones. On the 27th, the news of a proclamation for their arrest reached New Haven, and the two generals proposed some military tactics to throw possible pursuers off the scent. They accordingly appeared upon the street the next morning as travellers just arrived from the north, let their identity be known, made various inquiries concerning the town, and asked the way to Manhattan. They departed to the southward and disappeared ; but on arrivinor at Milford, ten miles below, New Haven 565 they entered the woods and returned quietly to the house of Mr. Davenport. Two weeks later, Kellond and Kirke, two officers commis- sioned by Governor Endicott, arrived with a warrant and called upon Deputy-Governor Leete at Guilford. There were several men in the Governor's office when the officers pre- sented their credentials. The Governor took the papers and began to read aloud, letting out the whole secret, as he doubtless intended, so that the generals might receive warning and escape. The officers soon found that both the magistrates and the people were inclined to shield the regicides, but made desperate efforts to effect a capture. The fugitives, however, assisted by Davenport, Jones and others, eluded them at every point. Finally, after exhausting their patience and ingenuity, the officers gave up the chase and returned to Massachusetts ; but offered large rewards for the apprehension of the regicides. These re- wards stimulated the ambition of certain per- sons, and it was even more dangerous for the hunted men to appear in public, or to let their hiding-place be known. Those who were be- friending them were in equal danger ; for by aiding and comforting "traitors" they were 5^6 New Haven liable to arrest and execution for the crime of high treason. The regicides remained in the colony about two years, hiding in the houses of their friends ; in an old mill just outside the boundaries of the town ; in a cave on the side of West Rock ; in a pile of rocks on the top ; in a Milford cel- lar ; and other places of more or less doubtful identity. The best known of these places is the pile of boulders on the extreme top of West Rock known as " Judges Cave." It is visited every year by thousands of people, who regard it as a connecting link between New Haven and the great tragedy of English his- tory. About the year 1670 a mysterious gentle- man about sixty years old, calling himself "James Davids," came to New Haven with the evident intention of spending the rest of his days in the town. He appeared to be wealthy, but no one knew anything of his past. He claimed to be a retired merchant. It is said that one Sunday while Sir Edmund Andros was attending church on the Green, he noticed a tall, soldierly-looking man in a neighboring pew, and inquired who he was. " He is a merchant residing here," was the reply. " I New Haven 567 know he is not a merchant," said Sir Edmund ; " he has filled a more responsible position than that ! " Governor Andros had not time to follow up his suspicions, but after the mysteri- JUDGES CAVE. ous stranger's death, twenty years later, it came to be known that he was Colonel John Dixwell, another regicide, who had fled from England to escape execution. A century and a half 568 New Haven afterwards, his descendants erected a monu- ment to his memory behind Center Church on the Green, where it is still an object of inter- est to visitors. New Haven received her baptism of fire during the Revolution in the form of an inva- sion by a detachment of the British army, July 5, 1779. The apparent purpose of this act was to cause Washington to weaken his force at West Point in order to defend the Con- necticut coast. Washington attacked Stony Point as a counter-irritant, but this did not affect the British until after they were through with New Haven, which was then a village of about eighteen hundred inhabitants. The evening previous (Sunday), arrangements had been mace for a celebration of the third anni- versary of the Declaration of Independence, but at ten o'clock the town was startled by the boom of a signal-gun in the harbor. All was confusion durinor the ni^rht, and about five o'clock Monday morning President Stiles, from the steeple of the college chapel, saw, by the aid of a spy-glass, the British fleet embarking at West Haven. A company of students formed and marched to hinder the invaders, while the beacon-fires that had been New Haven 569 lighted during the night on the neighboring hilltops brought bodies of armed patriots from the surrounding towns. In spite of deter- mined opposition, the enemy, led by General Garth, entered the town at noon and pro- ceeded to plunder and destroy. A pitched battle was fought on the northwest corner of Broadway, but the defenders were overpow- ered by superior numbers. The intention of the enemy was to burn the town, but it was found that this could not be done without en- dangering the property of the numerous Tories. An equal number of troops (1500) landed at Lighthouse Point and approached the town from the east, the intention being to crush all opposition by a junction of the two armies, while Sir George Collier was to bombard the town from his war-ships in the harbor. It having been decided not to apply the torch, those who had entered from the west slept on the Green during the night, and toward morn- ine embarked on the boats at the wharf, after burning much shipping. The eastern division, under General Tryon, captured Rock Fort (afterwards named Fort Hale), but were unable to enter the town. The next day they found the patriots collecting in such numbers that 57° New Haven they decided to withdraw and bestow their attentions upon the httle town of Fairfield, which they burned. A house still standing on the north side of the Green was used by the British as a hos- pital. Under a tree in front, Whitefield once preached to the multitude, and Jonathan Ed- wards used to court the daughter of the house. Colonel Aaron Burr, then twenty-three years old, took an active part in defending the town. Out on the Allingtown heights, to the southwest of the town, stands a monument to the memory of Adjutant-General Campbell of the British army. This officer showed such a noble spirit of humanity in the discharge of a disagreeable duty, protecting the helpless and preventing needless destruction, that the citizens of New Haven erected this stone to perpetuate his virtues. While on an errand of mercy he was shot by a young man, and on his monument are inscribed the words : "Blessed are the Merciful." The Dark Day, immortalized by Whittier, was the 19th of May, 1780. The Legislature was in session in the old State House on the New Haven 5/1 Green when a sudden darkness fell. Many believed the Judgment Day was at hand. In the midst of the excitement a motion was made to adjourn, when Colonel Abraham Dav- A HUMANE ENEMY. enport, great-grandson of John Davenport, rose and said : " I am against an adjournment. The Day of Judgment is either approaching, or it is 572 New Haven not. If it is not, there is no cause for adjourn- ment ; if it is, I choose to be found doing my duty. I wish, therefore, that the candles may be brought, and we proceed to business." " And there he stands in memory this day, Erect, self-poised, a rugged face, half seen Against the background of unnatural dark, A witness to the ages as they pass. That simple duty hath no place for fear." The foundation of Yale, the " Mother of Colleges," dates back to the colonial period, and was due to the foresight of John Daven- port. Within ten years of the settlement of the town, a parcel of land was set aside and known as "college land," and as early as 1654 the records of the General Court show "that there was some notion againe on foote con- cerning the setting vp of a Colledg here at Newhaven, Wch, if attayned, will in all likely- hood prove verey beneficiall to this place." In spite of Davenport's efforts, the project was not carried out during his lifetime, but in 1664, the Hopkins Grammar School, named in honor of Governor Hopkins, was organized as a collegiate school. The work of this school being chiefly of a preparatory nature, ten Con- gregational ministers organized a society for PHELPS HALL. 57j 574 New Haven the conducting of a college, and, in i 700, this was chartered as " A Collegiate School in his Majesty's Colony of Connecticut." The first rector, or president, was Reverend Abraham Pierson of Killingworth, and the first student was Jacob Hemingway. For a time the col- lege was settled at Saybrook, but in 1716 it was removed to New Haven. Two years later the name Yale College was adopted in honor of Elihu Yale, at that time its largest bene- factor. The college library had a unique origin. In I 700, the ten ministers forming the society met at Branford, and each donated a few volumes, saying as he laid them down : " I give these books for the founding of a college in this colony." Forty books w^ere given, forming the nucleus of the great University Library. The first public commencement occurred in 1 718, the first building having been erected the year previous. For nearly a century and a half the college had to endure a hard strug- gle for existence, but at the present day, owing to the donations of its graduates and friends, it ranks as one of the richest colleges in the country, and possesses some of the finest and best-equipped buildings in the world. Van- New Haven 575 derbilt Hall, given by Cornelius Vanderbilt ; Phelps Hall, in honor of William Walter Phelps; and Osborn Hall, in memory of Charles J. Osborn, are notable illustrations of combined utility and art. V^anderbilt Hall is not only the costliest but the most complete college dormitory in America. The rare opportunities now offered at Yale for a wide range of study and original investi- gation are too well understood to need men- tion. In 1887, it was resolved that the college had, in view of the establishment of the various departments comprised in a university, attained to that dignity ; and since that time it has been known as Yale University, The Theological Department may be said to have existed from the beginning, theology hav- ing been one of the chief studies for a hundred years. It has existed as a separate department since 1822, and the Law Department was established the same year. The Medical De- partment was organized in 181 2. The Sci- entific Department originated in 1846 in a professorship in agricultural chemistr)- and an- other in analytical chemistry, and since 1859 has occupied separate buildings as a distinct department. 57^ New Haven Yale has always been progressive in respect to the Fine Arts. On receiving the collection of Colonel Trumbull, embracing many pictures of scenes and participators in the Revolution- ary War, a building was erected for their ex- hibition on the campus. Lecture courses were given and interest so far developed that later a larore and beautiful building- was erected for the purposes of an art school, which has at- tained great success. Yale shows that she well deserves her reputa- tion by more than doubling the number of her students within twenty years. The present at- tendance is upwards of twenty-five hundred, drawn from all parts of the world. The only aris- tocracy at Yale is that of brains and character, and it is a sienificant comment on this state of affairs to note that the sons of millionaires fre- quently do without the luxuries to which they are accustomed, to avoid being classed merely as rich men's sons. The Yale spirit recognizes manliness and industry as paramount qualities, and none stands higher among his fellows than the poor boy who courageously works his way through college, overcoming the obstacles that lie in his way, and maintaining an honorable rank in his class. 578 New Haven New Haven has sought to preserve memo- ries and mementoes of her historic existence, and the Historical Society building-, at the foot of Hillhouse Avenue, never fails to quicken the pulses of the antiquary. Here he finds one of Benjamin Franklin's Leyden jars ; Benedict Ar- nold's badly punctuated sign, his account-book, medicine chest, mortar and pestle ; the table on which Noah Webster wrote the Dictionary ; a silver spoon that once belonged to Commodore Isaac Hull (said to have been in his mouth when he was born) ; and an almost endless collection of relics, rare portraits and books. Of famous houses, many are still standing : two of Benedict Arnold's ; the dwelling of Roger Sherman, signer of the Declaration of Inde- pendence, the city's first mayor and a United States Senator ; the Trowbridge house, built in 1642 by an original settler; the Noah Web- ster house and others of less interest. One of the " famous spots" is the northwest corner of Union and Fair Streets, where once stood the house of Isaac Allerton, a Pilgrim of the May- flower. A tablet has been placed on the pre- sent building bearing the following inscription : " Isaac Allerton, a Pilgrim of the Alayflower, and the Father of New England Commerce, lived on this Ground from 1646 till 1659." 580 New Haven Across the way, on the southeast corner, stands an old house bearing the announcement that this was the birthplace of Andrew Hull Foote, Rear Admiral of the United States Navy. Center Church, near the centre of the Green on Temple Street, stands over what was form- erly a portion of the original burying-ground, and but a few feet from the site of the first meeting-house. From its historic associations it is one of the most interesting churches in the country. Over the principal entrance are these inscriptions : QUINNIPIAC CHOSEN FOR SETTLEMENT, A.D. 1637. THE WILDERNESS AND THE SOLITARY PLACE SHALL BE MADE GLAD FOR THEM. O GOD OF HOSTS LOOK DOWN FROM HEAVEN AND BEHOLD AND VISIT THIS VINE. A.D. 1638, A COMPANY OF ENGLISH CHRISTIANS LED BY JOHN DAVEN- PORT AND THEOPHILUS EATON WERE THE FOUNDERS OF THIS CITY. HERE THEIR EARLIEST HOUSE OF WORSHIP WAS BUILT A.D. 1639. THE FIRST CHURCH BEGINNING WITH WORSHIP IN THE OPEN AIR APRIL 15 (O. S.), WAS THE BEGINNING OF NEW HAVEN, AND WAS OR- .GANIZED AUG. 22 (O. S.), 1639. THIS HOUSE WAS DEDICATED TO •THE WORSHIP OF GOD IN CHRIST DEC. 27, 1814. ^jVMt^ 581 582 New Haven Dr. Leonard Bacon was for many years pas- tor of this church. Underneath is a crypt con- taining the remains and tombstones of many of the Puritan fathers and their famihes ; and here hes the body of Abigail Pierson, sister of the first president of Yale, and wife of John Davenport, Jr. While around and beneath Center Church " the rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep," the oldest cemetery now existing is that on Grove Street. Many distinguished sons of New Ha- ven are buried there, among them Rear-Ad- miral Andrew H. Foote, General Amos B. Eaton, Admiral Francis H. Gregory, General Alfred H. Terry, Noah Webster, Lyman Beecher, Benjamin Silliman, Theodore Win- throp, Jedediah Morse (father of American geography), the elder President Dwight and President Day, Colonel David Humphreys, aide on the staff of General Washington, Eli Whitney, inventor of the cotton-gin, Jehudi Ashmun, first colonial agent at Liberia, Gov- ernors Ingersoll, Baldwin, Edwards, and many others eminent in business and professional life. Tottering old men sometimes point to places where Nathan Hale made his great leap, where 583 584 New Haven John C. Calhoun got his boots made, where Joel Barlow ate his hasty pudding, the porch where Commodore Hull liked to sit ; and tell no end of stories about visits of Lafayette, James Monroe and " Old Hickory." These are innocent chroniclers, forgetting the present in the glorious past, and we must allow a little for the play of the imagination ; but when they aver that Noah Webster, as a lieutenant com- manding a company of Yale students, once escorted General Washina^ton through the town and received a compliment therefor, an approving nod is in order, for the great lexico- grapher recorded the incident in his diary " at the day and time of it." Visitors frequently refer to the city as an overgrown village. It is hard for a New York man to realize as he strolls through the ample grounds of his New Haven friends, that he is in a city of more than one hundred thousand inhabitants. The value put upon breathing- places is shown in the large tracts of land devoted to public purposes. One walks hardly ten minutes in any direction without coming upon a square shaded by graceful elms and carpeted by a cleanly shaven lawn ; while the margins of the city by river and sound 586 New Haven abound in tastefully arranged parks. The transformation of the two great wooded ridges beyond the dwelling -line into well -graded drives, art vying with nature to please the eye and win the soul to beauty, completes the im- pression sometimes expressed, that New Haven is an immense village encircled by gardens. But while all this may suggest a condition of dreamy repose, the city is by no moans given over to dolce far niente. The University with its manifold departments is a veritable hive of industry; the scales of Justice at the County Court House are tipping endlessly in favor of right against wrong ; while the busy hum of the Winchester Arms and a hundred other mills, makes a music that dies not out. Altogether, historic New Haven is a pleas- ant place in which to live, and its hospitality is as generous as are its gardens and its parks. INDEX Acton, Mass., 262, 266, 272, 294 Adams, John, 49, 187, 228, 524, 526 Adams, Samuel, 12, iSo, 200, 202, 228, 259, 261, 264, 265 Agassiz, Louis, 176, 242 Akers, Paul, 78 Albany, 532 Alcott, A. Bronson, 279, 292, 293, 294 Alcott, Louisa, 294 Alden, John, 328, 334 Alden, Priscilla, 328 Alden, Rear-Admiral, 66 Aldrich, Thomas B., 50, 176 Allen, Samuel, 429 Allerton, Isaac, 578 Allston, Washington, 236 Alsop, Richard, 527 Amherst College, 82 Amsden, John, 429 Amsterdam, 310 Andover, Mass., 144 Andrew, Gov. John, 265 Andros, Sir Edmund, 334, 419, 420, 518, 519, 566, 567 Ann, Cape, 126, 127 Anne, Queen, 420, 449, 523 Appleton, Capt. Samuel, 412 Apponaug, R. I., 486 Aquidneck, 444 Arlington, Mass., 2ig Arnold, Benedict, 578 Arnold, Fred. A., 206 Arnold, Matthew, 50 Arnold, Thomas, 482 Ashley, Rev. Jonathan, 428, 438 Ashmun, Jehudi, 582 Austerfield, 304, 306, 332 Austin, Jane Goodwin, 50, 330 B Bacon, Dr. Leonard, 510, 582 Bacon, Francis, 140 Bacon, John, 407 Baker, Miss C. Alice, 426 Baldwin, R. S., 5S2 Bancroft, George, 50, 89, 276, 514 Bardwell, John, 436 Bardwell, Thomas, 435 Barlow, Joel, 525, 526, 527, 584 Barnard, Henrj', 30, 544 Barnard, Rev. Mr., 154 Barnstable, Mass., 376, 381, 388, 389. 3^3, 394. 397, 400 Barnstable County, Mass., 361, 393 Barre, Mass., 106 Barrett, Col. James, 273, 276 587 588 Index Bartholomew, E. S., 550 Bartol, Cyrus, 78 Bates, Katharine Lee, 345 Bedford, Mass., 219, 266 Bedfordshire, 244, 246, 247 Beecher, Catherine, S, 546 Beecher, Henry Ward, 8, 11 Beecher, Lyman, 8, 556, 582 Beers, Capt. Richard, 410, 412 Bellingham, Gov. Richard, 141 Bennington, Vt., 265,436 Bentham, Jeremy, 279 Bentzon, Th., 33 Berkeley, George, 450, 451, 452, 454, 455, 458, 505 Berkeley, Lucia, 455 Berkeley, Mrs. George, 451 Beverly, Mass., 92 Billerica, Mass., 219 Billington, John, 377 Blackstone, Sir William, 140 Blaine, James G., 78 Blanchard, Claude, 460, 461, 462 Block, Adrian, 515 Block Island, 446 Borgeaud, Charles, 17 Boston, 23, 58, 64, 81, 82, 84, 86, 94, 96, 98, 102, 106, III, 113, 141, 143, 144, 149, 159, 167- 210, 230, 234, 248, 256, 259, 262, 271, 277, 278, 289, 294, 329, 364, 374, 377, 388, 392, 419, 434, 441, 451, 484, 486, 494, 497, 4g8, 505, 507, 518, 519, 524, 525, 526, 532, 534, 553, 556, 564 Boston, England, 207, 250 Boston College, 180 Boston University, 180 Bourne, Mass., 380, 381 Bourne, Richard, 379 Bovvditch, Nathaniel, 159 Bowdoin College, 76 Brackett, Thomas, 56 Brackett, Mrs. Thomas, 56 Bradford, Gov. William, 49, 124, 131, 132, 134, 299, 303, 304, 306, 308, 309, 311, 314, 315. 316, 317, 319, 324, 326, 329, 334, 346, 351, 352, 353, 354. 377 Bradley, Rev. Caleb, 75 Bradstreet, Simon, 124, 125, 140, 216, 217, 219 Braintree, Eng., 217, 218 Branford, Conn., 574 Brewster, Mass., 380, 381, 384 Brewster, Nathaniel, 340 Brewster, William, 299, 304, 308, 309, 311, 317. 322, 328, 329, 334, 336 Bridgham, Samuel W., 498 Brighton, Mass., 219 Brimfield, Conn., 532 Brindley, Deborah, no Bristol, R. L, 492 Brockett, John, 558 Brooktield, Mass., 20, 105, 117 Brookline, Mass., 204, 550 Brooks, Phillips, 10, 11, 26, 184 Brown, Alice, 50 Brown, Chad, 478,480, 4S5, 492 Brown, Charles Farrar, 78 Brown, H. B., 79 Brown, James, 491 Brown, John, 492, 494, 497, 502 Brown, Joseph, 492 Brown, Moses, 492, 495 Brown, Nicholas, 492 Brown University, 491, 499 Browne, Nathaniel, 486 Browne, Rev. Robert, 113 Brownell, Thomas C, 538 Brunswick, Me., 75 Bryce, James, 12, 15, 33 Buchanan, James, 551 Bucks County, Eng., 247 Bulkeley, Rev. Peter, 243, 244, 246, 247, 248, 249, 251, 253, 268, 270 Bunce, William G., 550 Bunker Hill, 58, 109, 204, 206, 232, 260, 261, 300, 435, 492 Bunyan, John, 246, 281 Burgoyne, Gen. John, 1 12, 210, 234, 238, 436 Index 589 Burnet, Jacob, 96 Burns, Anthony, 173 Burr, Aaron, 112, 570 Burroughs, Rev. George, 57, 144 Burton, Richard, 550 Bushnell, Dr. Horace, 9, 11, 542, 544 Buzzard's Bay, 345, 402 C Cabot, George, 530 Cabot, John. 514 Cabot, Sebastian, 514 Cady, Jonathan, 496 Calhoun, John C, 584 Calvin, John, 253 Cambridge, Eng., 220, 308, 309 Cambridge, Mass., 140, 181, 204, 208, 211-242, 24S, 259, 260, 271, 435, 511, 512 Campbell, William, 570 Canaan, Conn., 532 Canning, George, 525 Canonicus, 476 Cape Cod Towns, 345-402 Carlisle, iMass., 266 Carrington, Edward, 495, 502 Carver, John, 312, 317, 326, 336, 346, 352 Casco, Me., 56 Casco Bay, 66, 75 Castine, Baron, 420 Chandler, Lucretia, no Channing, Rev. \V. Ellery, 8, 11, 279, 2S0, 282, 505 Chantavoine, 284 Charles I., 563 Charles II., 391, 508, 563 Charlestown, Mass., 136, 140, 141, 168, 204, 207, 215 Chase, Salmon, 76 Chatham, Mass.. 381, 382 Chauncy, Rev. Charles, 227 Chelmsford, Mass., 266 Child, Lydia M., 176 Childs, Samuel, 438 Church, Frederick E., 550 Church, Major, 57 Clark, Francis E., 8, 11 Clark, Rev. Mr., 261, 262 Clarke, Captain, 70 Clarke, John, 319, 481 Clay, Henry, 536 Cleeves, George, 56, 57 Clemens, Samuel L., 548 Clerc, Laurent, 536 Clifford, Nathan, 76 Clyfton, Richard, 299, 304, 307 Codman, Charles, 79 Cogswell, Alice, 535 Cogswell, F. H., 553 Cogswell, Mason F., 527, 535 Coke, Edward, 140 Cole, Charles O., 79 Collier, Sir George, 569 Colt, Caldwell H., 541 Colt, Col. Samuel, 540 Colt, Mrs. Samuel, 541 Conant, Roger, 126, 127 Concord, Mass., 7, 49, 106, 164, 204, 219, 232, 243-297, 434 Conway, Mass., 431 Cooke, Rose Terry, 50, 549 Coolidge, Susan, 443 Cooper, J. Fenimore, 279 Copley, JohnS., 339 Corey, Giles, 144, 146 Corey, Martha, 144, 145 Corliss, George H., 500, 501 Cornbury, Lord, 420 Cornbury, Nathaniel, 412 Corwin, Jonathan, 138, 142 Cotton, Rev. John, 218, 24S, 249, 250 Coverly. Nathaniel, 336 Cowper, William, 246, 247 Cromwell, Oliver, 247, 261, 312, 563, 564 Crowninshield, Benjamin W., 158 Crowninshield, George, 156, 15S Cumberland County, Me., 76 Curtis, George W., 49, 280 Cushman, Robert, 334 Cutler, Manasseh, 27, 84, 90, 92, 93. 94. "5 590 Index D Dalton, Richard, 450, 451 Dana, Richard, 236 Dane, Nathan, 27. 87, 90, Q2 Danvers, 92 Danvers Centre, 139 D'Anville, Admiral, 190, 191, 192, 194, 195 Dartmouth, Eng., 316 Davenport, Abraham, 571 Davenport, John, 553, 564, 565, 571, 572, 5S0 Davenport, John, Jr., 582 Davenport, Lieutenant, 70 Davison, William, 309 Day, Jeremiah, 582 Daye, Stephen, 241 Dean, Barnabas, 533 Dedham, Mass., 219, 404, 406, 407 Deerfield, Mass., 84, 403-442 Delfthaven, 315, 332 Dennis, Mass., 3S0, 381, 384, 391 Derby, Conn., 526 Detroit, 524 Devon, 380 Dexter, Gregory, 478, 480, 485 Dickinson, David, 433 Dickinson, Thomas W., 438 Diman, Rev. J. L., 480 Dixon, James, 551 Dixwell, Col. John, 567 Doane, Deacon, 379 Dokeshury, Eng., 312 Donitson, Daniel, 430 Dorchester, Mass., 96, 140, 511 Dorchester Heights, 208 Dorr, Sullivan, 502 Dorr, Thomas W., 500 Dow, Neal, 64 Dowse, Thomas, 181 Drake, Sir Francis, 348 Duddingston, Lieutenant, 492 Dudley, Gov. Thomas, 216, 217, 219, 422 Dunster, Rev. Henry, 227 Durfee, Thomas, 478 Duxbury, Mass., 328 Dwight, Theodore, 527 Dwight, Timothy, 278, 366, 523, 582 Dyre, Mary, 484 E Eastham. Mass., 352, 368, 374, 376, 377, 378, 379. 3S0, 381, 388, 400 Eaton, Amos B., 582 Eaton, Theophilus, 553, 556, 558, 580 Edinburgh, 174 Edwards, Governor, 582 Edwards, Jonathan, 7, 11, 290, 523, 570 Eggleston, James, 411 Eliot, C. W., 30 Eliot, John, 334, 403- 404 Eliot, Samuel A., 211 Elizabeth, Cajie, 56 Elizabeth, Queen, 309, 312 Elwell, J. D., 297 Emanuel College, 219, 224 Emerson, Ralph W., 7, 11, 49, 176, 246, 250, 251, 267, 268, 270, 278, 279, 280, 281, 282, 284, 285, 286, 289, 291, 293, 294, 339 Emerson, Rev. Mr., 270, 274, 275 Endicott, John, 123, 124, 126, 127, 128, T29, 130, 131, 132, 140, 141, 152, 156, 216, 564, 565 Essex, Eng., 217 Essex County, Mass., 148, 277, 413, 414 Evans, George, 76 Everett, Edward, 180, 227, 236 Fairfield, Conn., 570 Falmouth, Mass., 345, 361, 393, 394, 396, 400, 402 Falmouth, Me., 56, 57, 58, 60, 61 Index 591 Farrar, Charles, 78 Faunce, Elder, 330 Felt, Capt. John, 154 Felt, Rev. J. B., 128, 162 Fern, Fanny, 78 Fernay, Chevalier de, 460 Fessenden, William Pitt, 76 Field, Col. David, 433 Fields, James T., 162, 176 Fisher, Lieutenant, 407 Fiske, John, 50, 106, 241, 508, 548 Foote, Andrew Hull, 580, 582 Fox, George, 4S7 Foxe, Edward, 303 Franklin, Benjamin, 93, 94, iSo, 253, 257, 286, 288, 470, 490, 505, 526, 578 Frary, Samson, 408 French, Daniel C, 297 Frink, Rev. Thomas, 108 Fuller, Dr., 132 Fuller, George, 437 Fuller, Margaret, 236, 280 Gage, Gen. Thomas, 152, 206, 210, 22S, 434, 522 Gallaudet, Thomas H., 535, 536 Garfield, James A., 84, 97 Garrison, William L., 180 Garth, General, 569 Gates, Gen. Horatio, 270 George III., 198, 202, 256, 270 Gerry, Elbridge, 231 Gilibs. James, 4S0 Gill, Mass., 431 Gillette, William, 550 Gladstone, William E., 253 Gloucester, Mass., 363, 370 Goddard, WMUiam, 496 Godman, Elizabeth, 562, 563 Goethe, Johann Wolfgang, 293 Goffe, W'illiam, 4II- 563. 564 Good, .Sarah, 141, 143 Goodrich, Chauncey, 530 Goodrich, S. G., 532, 544 Gosnold, Bartholomew, 348 Granby, Conn., 532 Grand Manan, 194 Grant, Ulysses S., 551 Gray, 156 Gray, Asa, 242 Grayson, William, 89 Greele, Alice, 61, 62 Greene, Nathanael, 214, 471 Greenfield, Mass , 431 Greenleaf, Simon, 76 Gregory, Francis H.,582 Griggs, Dr., 140 Groton, Mass., 246 Guilford, Conn., 565 H Hadley, Mass., 411, 413, 416 Hale, Edward Everett, 92, 117, 176, 185 Hale, Matthew, 140 Hale, Nathan, 582 Halifax, 195 Halifax Bay, 195 Hamilton, Mass., 92 Hampden, John, 247, 258 Hancock, John, 172, 228, 259, 261, 264, 265 Hancock, " Lady," 172 Hand, Daniel, 29 Hannibal, 268 Harlakenden, Roger, 220 Haroun Al-Rashid, 2S1 Harrington, Jonathan, 264 Harris, William, 4S5 Harris, W. L., 96 Harris, W. T., 30, 31, 294 Harrold, Eng., 247 Hartford, 9, 92, 140, 219, 486, 507-551 Harvard, John, 224, 226 Harvard University, 24, 106, 180, 222, 224, 226, 228, 242, 259, 260, 275, 340, 429 Harwich, Mass., 361, 381, 382 Hatfield, Mass., 413, 416, 417 Hawkshurst, Eng., 244 592 Index Hawley, J. R., 551 Hawthorne, John, 142 Hawthorne, Nathaniel, 7, g, 50. 75, 125, 128, 156, 159, 160, 162, 172, 275, 279, 2S2, 284, 285 Hayes, Rutherford B., too Haynes, Gov. John, 217, 511, 514 Hemingway, Jacob, 574 Hendery, Andrew, 1 10 Herbert. (leorge, 317 Hertford, Eng., 514 Hibbins, Ann, 141 Higginson, Rev. Francis, 132, 133, 134, 138 Higginson, Rev. John, 124 Higginson, Thomas \V., 32, 167, 236, 24 r Hill, Thomas, 78 Hillhouse, James, 530 Hinsdell, Samuel, 408 Hoar, George F., 86, S8, Sg, 93, g4, 96, 97, g8, 100, 103, 116, 117, 118 H olden, Mass., 106 Holmes, John, 236 Holmes, Oliver W., 40, 50, 176, 17S, 214, 227, 232, 236, 241 Holmes. Rev. Abiel, 481 Holyman, Rev. Mr., 4S0 Holyoke, Capt. Samuel, 417 Honeyman, Rev. Mr., 44g Hooker, Rev. Thomas, 217, 218, 219, 507. 510, 512, 514, 521 Hopkins, Dr. Lemuel, 525 Hopkins, Dr. Samuel, 8 Hopkins. Esek, 502 Hopkins, Governor, 572 Hopkins, Stephen, 4go, 494, 502, 505 Howe, General, ig6, 202, 206 Howe, Julia Ward, 176 Howells, William D., 176, 241 Hubbard, Rev. William, 21S Hubbardston, Mass., 82, 106 Hudson, Henry, 348 Hud.son, J. B., 79 Hull, Isaac, 57S, 584 Humphreys, David, 525, 526, 582 i iuntingdon, 247 Hutchinson, Anne, 220, 248 Hutchinson, Gov. Thomas, 144, 148 Ingersoll, Governor, 582 Ingraham, J. H., 78 Ipswich. Mass., 92, 219 Irving, Washington, 81, 279 Ives, Thomas P., 502 J Jackson, Andrew, 364, 584 Jackson, Lydia, 339 Jacobs, George, 124 James, Sir John, 450, 451 James I., 314, 315 Jefferson, Thomas, 16, 89, 90, 253. 257, 25S, 286, 526 Jewell, Marshall, 551 Johnson, Dr. Samuel, 176 Johnston, Alexander, 507 Jones, Capt., 32S Jones, Rev. John, 246 Jones, William, 564, 565 Judson, Adoniram, 340 Jumel, Betsy, 112 Jumel, Stephen, 112 Kellogg, Elijah, 78 Kendall, Rev. James, 332 Kent, Chancellor, 244, 380 Killingworth, Conn., 574 King, Rufus, go Kingston, Mass., 328 Kirkland, Rev. John T., 227 Knowles, Admiral, ig6 Knox, Gen. Henry, 214 Lafayette, Marquis de, 158, 584 Lancashire, 312 Index 593 Lancaster, Mass., 105, 246 1-angdon, John, 260 Langdon, Rev. Samuel, 232, 259 Larcom, Lucy, 43 Latimer, George D., 121 Laud, Archbishop, 247 Lee, Richard Henry, 89 Leete, Deputy Governor, 565 I'Epee, Abbe de, 536 Leslie, Col., 154 Lexington, Mass., 58, 109, 174, 202, 204, 219, 238, 259,260, 261, 262, 264, 265, 266, 271, 272, 273, 278, 294, 434 Leyden, 311, 314, 315, 322, 334 Lincoln, Abraham, 14, 253, 289, 550 Lincoln, Mass., 266, 272 Lincolnshire, 185, 304 Lisbon, 531 Litchfield, Conn., 8 Locke, John, 253, 258 Locke, Jonas, 435 London, 174, 176, 178, 1S5, 334, 522, 553, 564 Londonderry, N. IL, 108 Longfellow, Henry W., 50, 66, 68, 69, 75, 78, 79, 176, 214, 227, 234, 236, 260, 262 Longfellow, Samuel, 78 Longfellow, Stephen, 69, 530 Longmeadow, Mass., 429 Lonsdale, R. I., 504 Lossing, B. J., 96 Lothrop, Capt. Thomas, 410, 413, 414, 415 Louis XV., 1 88 Louis XVL, 526 Louisbourg, 188, 202, 265, 329, 429 Lowell, James Russell, 32, 50, 176, 214, 224, 227, 231, 236, 239. 275 Lowell, Rev. Charles, 231 Lynn, Eng. , 247 M Magee, Capt. James, 376 ^Lllbon, Martha, 562 Malbon, Richard, 562 Mann, Horace, 30, 180 Manning, Pres. James, 491, 500 Manomet. 320, 331 Marcus Aurelius, 308 Marie Antoinette, go Marietta, Ohio, 27, 82,84, 86, 88, 90, 92, 97, 100, 103, 115, 116, 117, 118 Marshfield, Mass., 328, 332 Mashpee, Mass., 392 Mason, James M., 376 Massasoit, 324, 325, 329 Mather, Cotton, 141, 149, 222, 348, 409, 411, 413, 415 Mather, Eleazer, 418 Mather, Eunice, 418, 426 Mayflower^ 15, 100, 316, 317, 319, 320, 326, 328, 338, 341, 345, 346, 348, 350, 352, 853, 354, 377, 50S, 578 Maynard, Sir John, 258 McClanathan, John and Eliza- beth, no McKoon, Joseph, 430 McSparran, Doctor, 488 Mead, Edwin D., 81 Medfield, Mass., 40S Medford, Mass., 408 Meigs, Return J., 94 Mendon, Mass., 15 Merrimac River, 219, 267 Miantinomi, 476 Middlesex County, Mass., 105, 258, 260, 26S, 277 Milford, Conn., 564, 566 Milton, John, 222, 286 Minot, Captain, 272 Mobile, 68 Monadnock, 82 Monroe, James, 584 Monson, Conn., 532 Montaigne, 282, 284, 285 Montesquieu, 258 Montpellier, 113 Montreal, 65 Moody, Dvvighl L., 8, 1: 594 Index Morrill, Lot M., 76 Morris, G. P., i Morse, Alpheus C, 504 Morse, Jedediah, 582 Morton, Nathaniel. 320 Moseley, Capt. Samuel, 414, 415 Motley, John Lothrop, 81 Mount Wollaston, 128, 218 Mowatt, Captain, 6c5^ 61, 62, 72 Mowry. Roger, 484 Munroe, Robert, 265 Murray, Alexander, no Murray, Col. John, 109, no, III, 115 Musketaquit River, 260 Muskingum, 102 N Nantucket, 368, 394, 532 Narragansett Bay, 81, 475, 481 Narragansett, R. I., 488 Natick, Mass., 104, 406 Nauhaught, Deacon, 393 Naumkeag, 126, 127, 131, 132, 133 Neal, John, 78 New Bedford, 392 Newburgh, N. Y., 99 Newburyport, 171 New Haven, 24, 487, 524, 532, 553-5S6 Newport, R. I., 7, 176, 443-473, 481, 484. 487, 494. 505, 521 Newton, Mass., 219, 404, 511 Newtown, Conn., 512 Newtowne, Mass., 215, 216, 218, 219, 220, 223 New Windsor, 521 New York, 64, 93, 94, 168, 170, 174, 176, 441, 486, 497, 532, 534, 584 Niles, John M., 551 Noble, John, 19S Norfolk, 380 Norfolk, Conn., 532 Norfolk, Va., 532 Northampton, Mass., 7, 418 Northfield, Mass., 412, 415 North Kingstown, R. I., 486 Norton, Charles E., 241 Nottingham, 304 Nurse, Rebecca, 144 O Oakham, 82, 106 Odell, Eng., 244, 246, 247 Oliver, Thomas, 231, 232 Olmsted, Frederick L., 550 Olney, Eng., 247 Orleans, Mass., 352, 380, 381, 388, 393, 396 Osborn, Charles J., 575 Osborn, Goody, 141, 143 Osgood, James R., 176 Otis, Harrison Gray, 530 Otis, James, 198, 228, 390 Ouse River, 246, 247 Oxford, 302 Oxford County, Me., 69 Paddock, Ichabod, 368, Palfrey, John G., 50, 236 Pamet, 368 Pamet River, 351 Paris, 178, 536 Parker, Capt. John, 261, 264, 265 Parker, Theodore, 176, 261,262, 265 Parkman, Francis, 50, 81, 176, 181, 446 Parris, Elizabeth, 139 Parris, Rev. Samuel, 139, 140, 141. I5> Parsons, Samuel H., 94 Parsons, Theophilus, 76 Pascal, 2S5 Patten, Nathaniel, 522 Pawtucket, R. I., 486, 495 Pawtuxct River, 476 Paxton, Charles, 106 Paxton, Mass., 82, 103, 106 Index 595 Payson, Edward, 78 Peabody, George, 29, 72 Pelham, Mass., 109 Pemaquid, 58 Penn, William, 406 Pennicook, 104 Percy, Lord, 204, 238, 261, 276 Peskeompskut, 416, 4:7 Phelps, William Walter, 575 Philadelphia, 170, 288, 522, 534 Philip, King, 56, 81, 267, 329, 381, 389, 410, 416, 417,. 484, 517 Phillips, Wendell, 173 Phipps, Sir William, 58, 146 Pickard, Samuel T., 53 Pickering, Timothy, 90, 158 Pierce, Mm. Anne L., 68 Pierpont, John, 261, 266 Pierson, Abigail, 582 Pierson, Abraham, 574 Pilgrimage, Historical, v, 82 Pitcaiirn, Major, 265 Pitican, Simon, 104 Pittsburgh, Pa., 100 Pittsfield, Mass., 549 Plat.o, 7, 284 Plimpton, John, 407 Plymouth, 131, 243, 299, 343 Plymouth Colony, 57 PI} /mouth, Eng. , 316 Plymouth, Mass., 100, 299-343, .377. 378, 390, 394, 507 P ocumtuck, Mass. , 407, 408, 410, 414 Pocumtuck River, 403, 404, 431, 441 Pokanoket, 416 Pompamamay, 104 Pond, Charles M., 543 Pond, Elizabeth, 543 Pool, Maria L., 59 Pope, Albert A., 543 Portland, 8, 53-80 Portsmouth, N. IL, 171 Portsmouth, R. I., 481 Powell, Lyman P., xi Preble, Com. Edward, 66, 69 Prentice, George D., 544 Prentiss, Sargent S., 76 Prescott, Col. George, 296 Prescott, Col. William, 204, 206, 232, 260 Prescott, Dr. Samuel, 261, 267, 271 Prescott, William, 530 Prescott, W. H., 159 Presumpscot River, 75 Prince, Thomas, 106, 194 Princeton, Mass., 82, 103, 106 Pring, Martin, 348 Providence, R. L, 475-506 Provincetown, Mass, 345, 346, 350. 354-3(^5. 366, 369, 370, 376. 377. 388, 389, 396, 400 Pugastion, 104 Putnam, Ann, 151 Putnam, Israel, 96, 97, 435 Putnam, Rufus, 27, 82, 88, 90, 92, 93, 94, 96, 97, 98, 99, 100, 102, 109, 114, 115, 116, 118, 119 Putnam, W. L., 76 Pym, John, 258 Pynchon, Colonel, 413 Quebec, 200, 277 Quincy, Josiah, 227, 236 Quincy, Josiah, Jr., 174 Quincy, Mass., 128 Quincy, Mrs. Josiah, 172 Quinnipiac, 556, 580 R Rasle. Father, 427, 429 Raymond. 75, 76 Readc, Lieutenant, 70 Reed, Thomas B., 56, 57, 69 Revere, Paul, 174, 260, 262, 325, 402 Kiedesel, von. Baron. 234 l 570 Wickenden, William, 480 Wilkins, Mary E., 50 Willard, Benjamin, 105 Willard, Henry, 105 Willard, Rev. Joseph, 108, 227 Willard, Rev. Samuel, 440 Willard, Simon, 105, 219, 243, 244, 246, 268 William the Silent, 311 Williams, Abigail, 140 Williams, Col. Ephraim, 429 Williams, Rev. John, 418, 422, 428 Williams, Roger, 9, 11, 124, 136, 138, 152, 449, 476, 478, 480, 481, 482, 484, 485, 486, 488, 489, 502 Williams, Rev. Stephen, 428 Willis, N. P., 78, 17S Wilson, Rev. John, 220 Windsor, Conn., 508 Winslow, Edward, 312, 314, 315, 317, 326, 328, 329. 332, 334, 389 Winslow, Gen. John, 332 Winslow, Josiah, 332, 337 Winthrop, Gov. John, 136, 140, 168, 180, 2T4, 216, 220, 248 Winthrop, Robert C, 49 Winthrop, Theodore, 582 Woburn, Mass., 260 Wolfe, Gen. James, 277 Wolsey, Cardinal, 306 Woodhill, 244 Wood's Holl, Mass., 394 Index 599 Worcester County, Mass., 97, 103, 105 Worcester, Eng., 302 Worcester, Mass., 82, 103, 105, III, 113, 116, 117, 498, 499 Worcestershire, 312 Wyclif, John. 303 Wyllys, Samuel, 519 Yale, Elihu, 574 Yale University, 24, 366, 454, 523- 572, 574. 575, 576, 582, 584, 586 Yarmouth, Mass., 368, 377, 380, 381, 385, 393 Yorkshire, 247, 304 Yorktown, 521 Historic Towns of New Eng:land Edited by Lyman P. Powell. With introduction by George P. Morris. With 160 illustrations. 8°, gilt top, $3.50. Contents : Portland, by Samuel T. Pickard ; Rutland, by Edwin D. Mead ; Salem, by George D. Latimer ; Boston, by Thomas Went- worth Higginson and Edward Everett Hale; Cambridge, by Samuel A. Eliot ; Concord, by Frank A. Sanborn ; Plymouth, by Ellen Watson ; Cape Cod Toiwns, by Katharine Lee Bates ; Deerfield, by George Shel- don ; Newport, by Susan Coolidge ; Providence, by William B. Weeden ; Hartford, by Mary K. Talcott ; New Haven, by Frederick Hull Cogswell. Historic Towns of the fliddle States Edited by Lyman P. Powell. With introduction by Dr. Albert Shaw. With over 150 illustrations. 8°, gilt top, $3-50- Contents : Albany, by W. W. Battershall ; Saratoga, by Ellen H. Walworth ; Schenectady, by Judson S. Landon ; Newburgh, by Adelaide Skeel ; Tarrytown, by H. W. Mabie ; Brooklyn, by Harring- ton Putnam ; New York, by J. B. Gilder ; Buffalo, by Rowland B. Mahany ; Pittsburgh, by S. H. Church ; Philadelphia, by Talcott Williams ; Princeton, by W. M. Sloane ; Wilmington, by E. N. Val- landigham. Some Colonial Homesteads And Their Stories. By Marion Harland. Second impres- sion. With 86 illustrations. 8°, gilt top, $3 00. " A notable book, dealing with early American days. . . . The name of the author is a guarantee not only of the greatest possible accuracy as to facts, but of attractive treatment of themes absorbingly interesting in themselves, . . . the book is of rare elegance in paper, typography, and binding." — Rochester Democrat-Chronicle. riore Colonial Homesteads And Their Stories. By Marion Harland. With over 70 illustrations. 8°, gilt top. Where Ghosts Walk The Haunts of Familiar Characters in History and Literature. By Marion Harland, author of "Some Colonial Home- steads," etc. With 7,2, illustrations. 8°, gilt top, $2.50. " In this volume fascinating pictures are thrown upon the screen so rapidly that we have not time to liave done with our admiration for one before the next one is encountered. . . . Travel of this kind does not weary. It fascinates." — AVw York Times. G. p. PUTNAM'S SONS, Nkw York and London BELLES=LETTRES Browning, Poet and Man A Survey. By Elisabeth Luther Cary, author of "Tenny- son ; His Homes, His Friends, and His Works." With cover design by Margaret Armstrong. With 25 illus- trations in pliotogravure and some text illustrations. Large 8°, gilt top (in a box), $3.75. This volume forms a companion work to Miss Gary's book on Tenny- son issued last year, and which met with such a cordial reception. Tennyson His Homes, His Friends, and His Work. By Elisabeth Luther Gary. With iS illustrations in photogravure and some text illustrations. Second edition. Large 8°, gilt top (in a box), $3.75. "The multitudes of admirers of Tennyson in the United States will mark this beautiful volume as very satisfactory. The text is clear, terse, and intelligent, and the matter admirably arranged, while the mechanical work is faultless, with art work especially marked for excellence." — Chicago Inter-Ocean. Petrarch The First Modern Scholar and Man of Letters. A Selection from his Correspondence with Boccaccio and other Friends. Designed to illustrate the Beginnings of the Renaissance. Translated from the original Latin together with Historical Litroductions and Notes, by James Har- vey Robinson, Professor of History in Columbia Univer- sity, with the Collaboration of Henry Winchester Rolfe, sometime Professor of Latin in Swarthmore College. Illustrated. 8°, $2.00. " Petrarch is widely known as a poet of the Italian language whose love for Laura is immortalized in a long series of sonnets. It was an admirable idea for Prof. Robinson to translate for us a selection from the letters of Petrarch, and to intersperse their thoughtful and scholarly, fresh and interesting, notes and comments." — N. V. Jijues. Literary Hearthstones Studies of the Home Life of Certain Writers and Thinkers. By Marion Harland, author of "Some Colonial Home- steads and Their Stories," "Where Ghosts Walk," etc. Put up in sets of two volumes each, in boxes. Fully illustrated. 16°. The first issues will be : Charlotte Bronte. I Hannah More. William Cowper. | John Knox. In this series, Marion Harland presents, not dry biographies, but, as indicated in the sub-title, studies of the home-life of certain writers and thinkers. The volumes will be found as interesting as stories, and, indeed, they have been prepared in the same method as would be pursued in writ- ing a story, that is to say, with a due sense of proportion. G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS, New York and London 3 1205 02528 4686 UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY D 000 975 522 4