^^li THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESENTED BY PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID RAMBLES IN THE FAR NORTH. RAMBLES IN THE FAR NORTH R. MENZIES ,FERGUSSON, M.A. SECOND EDITION. ALEX. GARDNER, PAISLEY, AND 12 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON. 1884 TO ORKNEY. ** Land of the whirlpool — torrent — foam^ Where oceans meet in maddening shock ; The beetling cliff — the shelving holm — The dark insidious rock : Land oj the bleak, the treeless moor — The stetile mountain, seredand riven ; The shapeless cairn, the ruined tower, Scathea by the bolts of heaven : The yawning gulf — the treacherous sand— L love thee still, my native land. " Land of the dark — the Runic rhyme — The mystic ring — the cavern hoar ; The Scandinavian seer — sublime Ln legendary lore: Land of a thousand Sea-kings' graves — Those tameless spirits of the past. Fierce as their subject Arctic waves, Or hyperborean blast ; Though Polar billows round thee foam, I love thee ! Thou wert once my home." David Vedder. PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. The purpose of the following Sketches is to bring more prominently before the travelling and reading public the attractions and historical features of places which, though lying so near their own doors, are little known. The Orkney and other Islands of the North Sea well merit the attention of the tourist no less than that of the antiquarian and the geographer. It would be a good thing for those inclined to travel into other and strange lands to know some, at least, of the beauties of these scenes which are so closely associ- ated with the history of our own country. The many peculiar beauties of some of those Islands are touched upon in these Sketches, and some of the existing Folk-lore is for the first time introduced to the public. The concluding Sketch consists of a number of fairy tales, most of which have been collected at first hand, and may not be uninter- esting to lovers of the marvellous. The following pages are the hurried product of a two- summers' sojourn in the North Sea. Many of the Sketches ivi317S69 vi. Preface to the First Edition. appeared last winter in the columns of the Fifeshire Journal. Almost all the scenes described came under the writer's personal notice, and the historical matter is derived from the most reliable sources, which are acknowledged in their proper place. If this little volume creates in any a desire to visit the same scenes, it will not have been written in vain. The " Orcadian Musings " that form the latter part of the volume are occasional attempts at versification, and do not aspire to the higher walks of poesy. PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. The rapid sale accorded to the first edition has necessi- tated thus early the issue of a second. The very hearty and favourable manner in which the volume has been received by the press has assured the author that his work fills a felt gap in the literature relating to the Far North. Several important improvements and additions have been made, which, it is hoped, will add to the value of the book. The Index is new, and will facilitate reference to the con- tents. The " Orcadian Musings " have not been added to the present edition — the object being to make the Sketches as compact as possible. These may probably be re-issued in another form. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAGE Northward Ho— The Pentland Firth— An Orcadian Manse— First Impressions— Walls— Tumuli— EcclesiasticalRemainB— Flint Weapons — Asmundarvagr — Longhope— A Scandinavian Col- ony — Melsetter — Cantic-Head — Farming . . '9 CHAPTER n. Hoy— Its Scenery— A Storm Scene— Norse Pirates— Flotta— An Ancient Church — Crosses— Farming— Plants— People — Tu- muli .,.....• i8 CHAPTER III. Orphir— The Temple Church— Crusades— Round Churches— Gerth House — Jarl Hacon — Orcadian Parish Churches — St. Magnus Cathedral of Kirkwall— Jarl Rognvald — Bishop Reid An Eventful Lammas Fair . . . . -24 CHAPTER IV. Gallowhall — Witchcraft Trials — Visit of Thorfinn to King Magnus — Scandinavian Poetry . . . . -Si CHAPTER V. Kirkwall — Historical Incidents— Bishop's Palace — Earl's Palace — King's Castle — Scapa Bay — An Ancient Custom : the Bishop's Cup — Characteristics of Orcadians — Maes-Howe — Runes— Jarl Havard . . . . - 40 CHAPTER VI. Standing Stones of Stenness — Circle of Brogar— Remains, Celtic, y not Scandinavian — Stone of Odin : Customs connected with X. Contents. Page them— Walking Stone of Birsay — Incidents— The Old Man of Hoy — The Eagle and Young Pig — Dwarfie Stone — Hugh Miller — Supposed return of the Dwarf— Noma and the Trolld —Theories— Sir Walter Scott's Idea . . . -50 CHAPTER VII. Stromness— Cariston Roads — The Aster olepis — ^John Gow, the Pirate — Byron's "Torquil" — Eric Windy Cap — Bessie Miller — Mammie Scott — Betsy Barnett — Black Isle Dame — Black Craigs— Wreck of the Star of Dundee— Fossils . 62 CHAPTER VIII. Firth —Finstown— Manse— Damsay—Jarl Erlend—Gairsay— Bat- tle of Summerdale — Lochs of Stenness and Harray — Birsay —Palace— Christ's Church— Brough of Birsay, and the Ruins of the Old Norse Church — Knowe of Saverough — Weir — Cubbarrow's Castle — Bairns of Brough — Egilsay — Eynhallow — Vandalism . . . . . . .76 CHAPTER IX. South Ronaldshay — St. Peter's Church— Lady Kirk — A Curious Stone — Earny Couligs — Howe of Hoxay — Introduction of Christianity — Scandinavian Influences — Druids — St. Columba and his Apostles — Remnants of Druidism — Cormac — St. Serf — The Dalriadic Kings — Jarl Sigurd's Compulsory Conver- sion—Battle of Clontarf— Song of the Fatal Sisters . . 92 CHAPTER X. Ancient Chapels of South Ronaldshay— Sculptured Stones— A Cross-Marked Stone — Tombstones with Danish Inscriptions —Churches built near the Sea — The Rev. John Gerrard — A Curious Certificate — Tomison's Academy — St. Margaret's Hope— Incidents — Churchyard Inscriptions — Curious In- scriptions from South Ronaldshay, Stenness, Thurso, Birsay, Stromness, Flotta, St. Magnus' Cathedral, Papa Westray, and Shetland . . . . . . .105 CHAPTER XI. Stronsay — Sanday — Brough of Quoyness — Westray — Noltland Castle : its Construction and History — The Brownie of Nolt- Contents. xi. Page land — Roslin— Jacobite Rebellion of 1745, Orcadian Fugi- tives — Rousay — Picts' Houses — Tumuli of Corquoy — Cub- bierow's Stone . . . . . .121 CHAPTER Xn. Fair Isle — Description — Wreck of the Spanish Armada — Sir Robert Sibbald's Account — Incidents during the Spaniard's Stay — Hosiery — Wreck of the Duncan, Carl Constantine, and the Lessing — Baptisms — Fishing Exploits — Cod-fishing — Saithe- Fishing — A Novel Experiment — Herring Fishing . 131 CHAPTER XIII. Land Tenure in Orkney — Udallers — The Odals-jord — Orcadian Farms— Rights and Privileges — Old Orcadian Plough— Agri- culture Two Centuries Ago — An Orcadian Triptolemus — The Clibber and Mazy — The Dawn of Scientific Agriculture — Breed of Sheep — Run-rig System — The " Hundred Lairds " of Harray — The Crofter's Commission — Forced Labour — Grievances and their Remedy — Price of Cattle — Pickie Lairds of Harray and Birsay — State of the Islands Three Centuries ago — Style of Farm Houses — Improvements in Parish of Walls — A But and a Ben — Farmer's Cottage of the Olden Time — Characteristics of Orcadians — Funeral Customs — A Marriage Feast ...... 141 CHAPTER XIV. Old Customs — Hallowe'en in the Far North — The Fairy Guizards — Fortune Spacing — Wha' Hads on to my Clew's End — Super- stition—Unlucky Names — Omens — Peculiar Charms — Norse Words — An Orcadian Cradle Song . . . .158 CHAPTER XV. Old Customs — The Haaf Fishing — Hogmanay — New Year Eve Song — New Year's Day — Game of Football — Gisli at Sedge Tarn — Smuggling — An Exciseman Outwitted — A Lost "Find" — An Exciting Chase — A Long- Headed Smuggler — ••Watch and Pray " ...... 169 CHAPTER XVI. Wooded Orcadia— The Druid's Rites— Torf-Einar and the Dis- covery of Peats— Peat-Cutting : the Process Described — Contents. Kinds of Peat — The Evening Festival— Peat-Raising and Peat-Leading— "Men must Work and Women must Weep" — The Rooing-Day : an Orcadian Gala Day — The Depart- ure and the Return — The Evening Feast and Dance — In Search of Herring-Bait — Many Nets, but Few Fish . . 179 CHAPTER XVn. Fairy Land — Fairy Lore— Lord Lytton's Regret at the Departure of the Fairies — Lament for the Same — Scandinavian Folk Lore— Elves— The Elves and the Maid— Sir Olof in the Elve Dance — Icelandic Elves or Dwarfs — The Trows — The Old Woman of Yell and Trippa's Son — A Shetlander among the Trows — Tritons, Mermaids, etc. — Brownies — Beliefs of Two Hundred Years Ago — An Old Norse Ballad, "Da King o' Fairie" — The Sword "Graysteel" — Sea-Trows — Finnmen — Departing Superstitions — Charms — Fore-Spokeri Water — A Charm for Toothache — The Wrestin Thread — The Ringworm Cure — The Dregs of Pagan and Popish Superstition — St. Tredwell's Chapel and Loch— Wunster Well of Flotta— For- tune Telling — Thorbiorga, the Soothsayer — Time Changes All . . . . . . . .190 CHAPTER XVIII. Fairy Tales— The Croupin of Yesnaby— Ossian's Blue-Low — The Changeling of Unst — The Story of the Pomona Croupin — Auld Cluttie taking Notes — A Scandinavian Legend — The Trows and The Maid of Unst — The White Sea Bird and the Fisherman — Witch Mabel — The Drowning of the Trows — The Dwarf of Hoy's Lament for their Loss — The Selchie and the Woman of Skaill — The Selchie of Breckness— The Mer- maid Bride — The Selchies of the " Stack and Skerry " — Ballad: The Grey Selchie of Sule Skerry— The Selchie that Deud no' Forget — The Weeping Neck — The Brownie of Po- mona — The Fire Spirits of Heckla — Windigo : the Evil Spirit of the North American Indians — Conclusion . .219 Appendix I. ...... . 257 Appendix II. ...... . 259 Index ........ 263 Rambles in the Far North. CHAPTER I. "North, ever North ! we sailed by night, And yet the sky was red with light, ' * And purple rolled the deep." — Aytoun. pROM the " Granite City," with its noise and bustle, we found ourselves transported to the deck of one of the Orkney Steamers, the "Queen" by name. It was midnight; and, like Thomas Carlyle, we might have said that "upwards of five hundred thousand two-legged animals without feathers lie around us in horizontal position, their heads all in night- caps, and full of the foolishest dreams." We all endeavoured to court the drowsy god, each dreading the slightest approach oi^^mal-de-mer"; but, ere we got well outside the bar, various peculiar sounds reminded those of us who were still safe that Neptune was demanding his usual kind of black mail from every landlubber. During our twelve hours' passage two young student friends were being reduced to that unenviable I o Rambles in the Far North. state in which one feels that it would be a blessing to be pitched into the sea. For them the grey streaks of the dawn had no charms. Even Homer's immortal verse had fled from their memories ; and " rosy fingered morn " was allowed to usher in her glory without any rapture on their part. The writer of this sketch, however, escaped all such unpleasant sensations ; was able to mount the deck and enjoy the glorious prospect of a glistening ocean with "water, water everywhere, but not a drop to drink," until the Orcadian Islands came into view. Orcadia ahoy ! The first land was sighted as we steamed along towards the Pentland Firth. The morning was bright and sunny, which made the surface of the sea sparkle all around. Although there was a heavy swell, we could enjoy the fair prospect before us as w^e drew near the scenes of the ancient battles of the hardy Vikings. The island of Stroma was on our left ; and the mainland of Scotland, with John o' Groat's House in view, was becoming remote behind. Beyond we could see the islands of South Ronald- shay, Walls and Hoy, Flotta and Switha ; while in close proximity we passed the little island of Swona, on which only fourteen famihes reside. Green sloping uplands, not very high above the sea level, but still lofty enough in some parts to merit the name of hills, met our gaze; and we could see small but comfortable-looking houses and home- Rambles in the Far North. 1 1 steads closely planted together. On many parts of the coast line were steep and dangerous-looking cliffs, washed by the swift flowing tide of the Pentland Firth, which, bearing vessels on its bosom at a greater speed than the wind can drive them, flows past the southern shore of Walls like an enormous river. After passing Duncansbay Head the sea became smoother, and our passage began to be of a more agreeable nature. The day was brilliant though a heavy breeze was blowing ; and we gladly welcomed the Bay of Longhope, where we quitted the side of the " Queen " and committed our precious frames to the care of a fishing yawl which was awaiting our arrival. Safely landed upon the beach, we felt tired and hungry, ready to devour the first viands we might chance to meet. The manse afforded us the first shelter, and within its hospitable walls we refreshed and rested our wearied bodies. An Orcadian Manse ! As a rule a Scottish manse is one of the most hospitable dwellings within which a traveller can set his foot. We found our Orcadian Manse no excep- tion to the rule. We were soon on the most intimate terms with the hospitable minister and his lady, and felt already as if we were part of his numerous family. It is very often the case that a clergyman with a moderate income is blessed with a large number of " hostages to fortune ; " and how so many manage to rear their families so creditably is 12 Rambles in the Far North. a problem I must leave unsolved. The manse was com- modious and commanded an extensive view of the sea and islands, while the hills of Hoy rose to the northward like lone sentinels amid the surrounding isles. Like many a parish priest, our friend the parson was given to antiquarian research ; and, as he always kept his eyes open when roam- ing about his parish, he generally came home with some ancient arrow-head or some other equally interesting rem- nant of the stone age. Well-read, he could discourse pleasantly on any topic, and was fond of expatiating upon the folklore and traditions of his Orkney home. For a time the manse formed the centre of our rambles, the ren- dezvous to which we always retraced our steps or steered our boat. The weather was fine, and we coasted along the different sounds and islands, shooting a sea-bird now and then, and occasionally engaging in a seal hunt. These were days of happy memories ; and even now we fancy that we " Can in a moment travel thither, And see the children sport upon the shore, And hear the mighty waters rolling evermore." The pleasure of our Orcadian rambles was increased by the agreeable company of a retired Fleet Surgeon and his wife, the latter an especially fascinating conversationahst. The parish of Walls, part of which lies between the Rambles in the Far North. 13 beautiful bay of Longhope and the rapid Pentland Firth, possesses a number of interesting remains of antiquity. Throughout the parish numerous twmdi are to be seen, some having been opened and others in their pristine form. These have been used at an early period as burial mounds, and 'later as " look-out " stations for approaching vessels. Within those that have been opened burned stones and ashes have been found, which speak silently of cremated corpses. The ecclesiastical remains are also interesting. Almost midway between the present Parish Church and the Manse are plainly seen the foundations of an ancient church, which must have been built in the twelfth or thirteenth century. Some time ago a silver coin, bearing the mark of King Robert the Bruce, was discovered amongst the debris. This coin is still, we believe, in the possession of Mr. Chalmers, watchmaker, Stromness. The old church seems to have borne the name of the " Rood or Reuid Kirk," though it is popularly known among the inhabitants as the " Red Kirk of the Burn." Besides this ecclesiastical building there was another in the parish of nearly the same date. It was situated close beside the bay of Osmundwall — the ancient Asmundarvagr — and within the present churchyard. This old church, like many more in Orkney, was dedicated to St. Columba, and is still mentioned by that name. The minister of Walls — 14 Rambles in the Far North. anciently called Waes or Waas — was Rector of St. Columba's Church. Near this edifice lay the church lands, which were cultivated by the ecclesiastics of that day Most of the land in the neighbourhood belonged formerly to the church, as did many of the islands in the vicinity ; but the hand of the spoiler has been busy here, as well as elsewhere, and what was once the property of the church has long been possessed by others. Disendowment was an easier process in those primitive times than it is likely to be now. At a time when Norse galleys anchored in the bays and Norsemen roamed amongst the^ace I " may well be said of all such men. Education is well attended to in this island. In the parish there stands a fine academy, endowed by the late WiUiam Tomison, an old Hudson Bay trader. It is cap- able of accommodating six hundred scholars, who receive a first-class free education under the efficient mastership of Mr. Cruickshank. The village of St. Margaret's Hope, in the north of the island, is a quaint spot, with its irregu- larly built dwelling-houses, and basin-shaped harbour. When the tide is full the sea comes up to the foundations of many of the houses. Following the rule of all Orcadian towns, its one main street consists of a long, crooked, double row of buildings, so situated as to present at once all manner of architectural positions. The style, on the whole, is picturesque. Outside the little township, with its local bank and hotel, large and fertile fields wave and glisten in the summer sun. What once was mere common land is now converted into fruitful parks that slope gently to the sea. The spirit of industry and improvement seems at last to have seized upon the proprietors, and all the once heathy ground smiles now with clover or with grain. If there are no trees to cast their welcome shadows on the ground, there is plenty of oats and here and sweet clovery grass. Rambles in the Far North. 109 It is often difficult to enter the harbour at low water. The writer remembers one occasion, when a local clergyman and himself sailed into it in a smart latine-rigged boat, and were unable to approach the pier for lack of water. There was no other way of getting out of the difficulty, than that of anchoring the boat and wading ashore. It becomes a rather awkward thing, when your boat runs aground, several yards from the beach, and an idle crowd of loafers witnesses your frantic effort to push your craft a little nearer land ! The crowning point is reached when you are compelled to roll up and waddle to the pier, carrying your boots and stockings over your back ! No doubt it is a very amusing spectacle ; but not one tending to edification. As we look back upon those brief adventures, we feel some little satisfaction that all the perils of the sea are past. The study of old tombstones is oft-times very interesting. The brief inscriptions recorded in some quiet corner of an old churchyard give many a glimpse of long ago ; and in our rambles we noticed a few interesting monuments of such a kind. Many a curious stone has been touched too deeply by " Time's effacing finger," and the story of its being com- pletely lost. Of many more we might say : — •* The lines by Friendship's finger traced, Now touched by Time's are half effaced ; The few faint letters lingering still Are all the dead man's chronicle." no Rambles in the Far North. A few specimens of Orcadian tombstones will suffice. The first is taken from a stone in the churchyard of St. Peter's, South Ronaldshay, and runs as follows : — Heir lyes a very onest woman caled Caitrin Groat and spous to Donald Robson skipr depairtit the 4 of November 1648. Heir rests this corps Enclosed in clay As al must doeis At the last day. Another, with the inscription running along the edge and across the middle of the stone, reads thus : — Here lyes an honest man William Sutherland Mearchand in Sant Margrat Hop, spous to Caitrin Ritch, who departed this lyf the 8 of December 1660. A shield is carved beneath the date, containing the initials of the two persons, W. S. and C. R., the one at the top and the other at the bottom. Beneath the W. S. are two stars and something like an old Rune letter, resembling the branch of a tree. Further down is the head of some animal like a roe-deer and a crescent moon. Then under the shield are the letters J. R. and B. R. with the skull and cross bones between. A curious tablet, finely carved, is built into the east wall of the church bearing the following inscription : — Rambles in the Far North. iii In hope of a blessed and gloro- us Resurrection. Here lyes the corps of that Grave and God- ly Matron Christian Hosack Spouse to Mr Richard Mein, Min- ister of the Gospel at South Ron- aldshay and Buray. She departed this life in the Seventy year Of her age on Sabbath Morn- ing being the first ot March 1742. Conditur hie corpus Tenerum Celestia Petit Spiri- tus Victrix Potitur Gloiia. Momento Mori. Old Orcadians appear to have been very pointed in narrating the circumstance of their being lawfully married. Upon a horizontal slab we made out another to the following effect : — Here lays the body of Thomas Tameson Who was born in the Year of our Lord 1742 And departed this life September the first day In the 42 year of his agge And was maried to Cirstan Tamson his lawful maried Wife. In September the 9 day 1784. Within a few yards of the last, another quaint inscription, which met our gaze, is also worthy of being given as an illustration of the curious records of this city of the dead. It was also carved upon a horizontal slab of blue slate, and ran thus : — Rmtibles in the Far North. Here lyes interred The body of Alexander Fubister, A man descend- ed of honest Parents And served his King with honour ; who di- ed the 28 day of Febru- ary 1788 Aged 74 years. Underneath this was a sand-glass, with a coffin on each side; below the sand-glass was a skull, with a bell on each side, and below the skull the usual cross-bones. There were one or two more of a similar description, which may be passed over. In the same churchyard we managed to decipher, after much difficulty, a more elaborate inscription and of an earlier date than the above. It ran thus : — Sacred to the memory of Robert Robinson who departed this Life J any. 22, 1728, aged 21. Here lyes a youthful hardy tar Life's troubled ocean past, Thro' storms and loud alarms of war He's anchor'd here at last. From dread of seas and adverse winds His sheltered bark's secure, For here serenest calms he finds Forever to endure. But once more he must rear his head With many of the fleet, His anchor weigh, his canvas spread His Admiral Christ to meet. Rambles in the Far North. 113 While standing one day within the churchyard of Stenness, we notice a slate slab with this inscription : — Momento Mori. Heir lies the Remains of Magnus Sinclair late Sailor Stromness, Husband to Ursula Clouston who departed this life July the 3rd day 1801 aged 47 years. Afflictions sore Long time I bore Physicians was in vain. The God thought fit To call me hence And ease me of my pain. There is a striking similarity between this and another in the churchyard of Thurso. As both stones are of the same material, slate, we conclude that the Orkney stone was dressed and carved in Thurso, and thence transported to Stenness. Another proof of this is that the date on both is the same, viz., 1801. The Thurso inscription is in memory of an H. Anderson, and runs as follows : — Afflictions sore ten weeks 1 bore, The Doctor was in vain, Till God did please By death to ease And took away my pain. The same inscription is also found in a quiet country church- yard in the county of Essex, in the following form : — TI4 Rambles in the Far North. Afflictions sore long time I bore ; Physicians all in vain, Till Christ did please to give me ease, And free me from my paine. A few old tombstones are to be found in the sea-girt church- yard of Birsay. Upon one, which bears the date 1779, is the following couplet : — To all you who do this see Learn to live as you'll wish to dee. Another, dated 1770, bears this couplet — Life how short, Eternity how long. One stone, ornamented at the top with two carved faces and a sand-glass between, bears the following : — Here are deposited the Remains Of Hugh Moar son of Hugh Moar, Tacksman of Boardhouse, he died October 6th 1805 aged 18 years. The life of man does quickly fade His thoughts are also frail and vain, His days are like a flying shade, Of whose short stay no sight remains ; Give joy or grief, give ease or pain, Take life and friends away. But let us find them all again In the eternal day. Life how short, how long eternity. Passing from Birsay to Stromness we find one here and there of a quaint and curious description. Many of those Rambles in the Far North. 115 in the churchyard of Stromness are too much effaced to be legible ; but one, which we made out, runs thus : — Heire lys interd the Bodie of Isoball Ernest Who was spous to James Louttit and departed This lif the 15 Apprile 1769 aged 47 years. Its God that lifts Our comforts Hay Or sinks them in the Greve. Hie gives Hie teaks Blessed bie the Neam Hie teaks hot what Hie gives. • Upon the tombstone of Robert Gray, shipmaster in Strom- ness, who died Nov. 25, 1735, the following verses are inscribed : — Death steers his course to every point Of this terrestial globe, And where he lands cuts quickly down All living in this orb. For I who underneath this stone Ly sleeping in the grave, While here on earth did stoutly scorn Prud Neptune's raging wave. Great swelling seas I overpast When stormy winds did boast, Yet death me seized when I was near Unto my native coast. Kind reader then be thou advised Whither by land or sea, To learn to live well then thou shalt Prepared be to die. In the churchyard of Flotta a few old stones are still to be ii6 Rambles in the Far North. found, though many of them must have been destroyed during the erection of the last two churches. One, broken across the middle, was very lately rendered readable by having been embedded for some time in the earth. It bears the following words : — Heir is the Buriall Place of the Antient Names of the Mouats In'Feerra. William Mouat and Marjorie D. Sutherland and his Gran- Mother. There is no date ; possibly it has been broken^off or effaced by time. It must belong, however, to the end of the seven- teenth, or the beginning of the eighteenth, century. These Mouats were a branch of the noble Mouats of Hoy, the Baronetcy of which family has been allowed to drop. Near this lies another stone, forming a link with the same family, with this inscription : — This stone is placed here In memory of John Suthe- Rland sometime Residen- Ter in the house of the Wh- Ome in Flotta. Who died 1788 Aged 74 years — And also His Spouse Ann Moat aged 66 years — with Christa- In Sutherland and their dau- Ghter aged 21 years. The Descendants of which fa- Mily claim the sole right Of this hurrying ground. Rambles in the Far North, 117 The Sutherlands are the most numerous clan in this island, and formerly composed the greater portion of the original inhabitants. The Simpsons were of much later date, and came over to Flotta from Caithness some time last century. The progenitor of the Flotta Simpsons bore the name of William, and erected a tombstone in memory of four daughters who died young about one time. It runs thus : — This stone is erected By William Simpson in The Bou as a testimony Of affection for his 4 Loving daughters Margrey, Margrat, Hellen, Jean Simpson who Died in the year 18O8. On the left side of this stone another stands, belonging to the same family, with a curious inscription in verse. It is worthy of being quoted here, and will be new to many. The stone is erected " as a mark of gratitude " to the memory of the wife of James Simpson. Remember me as you pass by, So as you are now, so once was I. A heap of dust is all remains of me, It is all I am and all the world shall be. A more familiar form of this inscription, copied from the one on the tomb of the Black Prince, which is found in many country churchyards both in England and Scotland, runs as follows : — ii8 Rambles in the Far North. Reader, behold, as you pass by ; As yoii are now, so once was I. As I am now, so must you be, Reader, prepare to follow me. A churchyard in Northumberland possesses the following unique epitaph : — Here lyes Jamie Trollop Whom these stones help to roll up, And when heaven took his soul up, His. body filled this hole up. As another sample of Orcadian poetry more than two hundred years ago, though not connected with the grave, we give the following inscription, which stood above the mantle- piece of the Old House of Holland, in Papa Westray, and which now forms the back of a lobby chair in the new house : — Come, good folk, and make good cheer ; All cival people are welcome here, And only for a good man's sake, What God doth send ye shall not lack ; For good he was to mc indeed, Forward then his name ye read. T. T. and M. C, 1632. The initials stand for Thomas Traill and Marion Craigie. The old house was erected between 1628 and 1632. One long slab, in the Cathedral Kirk of St. Magus, orna- mented with skull and cross-bones, has this brief inscrip- tioi> : — Rambles in the Far North. 119 Heir lyis an Godlie and vertous Isbel Calcri Spous to Villiam Bannatyn of Garsay. 1612. Another, ornamented similarly, has the inscription running along the edges, and reads thus : — Heir lyis Villiam Vrving ; Sone to Vmqll Villiam Vrving of Sabay, Being schot. ovt, of. Ye. Castel. In His Maiesties. Svs. Departit Ye 20 of September 1614. Beneath a skull and thigh bone are carved. This event, of September 16 14, was when Robert Stewart was besieged by the Earl of Caithness and Bishop Law. A branch of this family of Irvings settled in Shapinsay two centuries ago, and it was from this island that the father of Washington Irving, the creator of such quaint characters as Rip Van Winkle^ IcJiabad Crane, etc., emigrated to America in the year 1768. The Irvings of Sabay were descended from the ancient family of the Irvings or Irvines of Drum, in Aber- deenshire. This is only a mere indication of the style and tenor of some of the ancient Orcadian tombstones that came under our personal observation. There are, doubtless, many more as curious and instructive. Every churchyard possesses its full share of monumental stones, simple and ornamental; but many of these burying places have much need of being more carefully looked after and trimmed. Too many nettles are permitted to flourish unmolested, and not un- 120 Rambles in the Far North. frequently the bones of the dead are allowed to lie about unburied. The Rev. George Low, in his tour through Shetland in 1774, says he found no monumental inscrip- tions of any interest. They were all laudatory and possessed of no merit. He has only recorded one, which we give as a comparison between Orcadian and Zetlandic rhymes : — None more devout to God can Thule boast, Not one more just to man hath Thule lo?t ; No father more benign and provident, No gentler landlord e'er uplifted rent ; No judge more forward to protect the poor. No host to stranger kept an opener door. No man more humble in a prosperous state No more courageous under adverse fate ; No kinder husband e'er espoused a bride. Than he whose relicts here abide. Mr. Low does not mention the name of the deceased person whose virtues are enumerated in these lines. Doubtless, he was a person of some standing and position. Rambles in the Far North. CHAPTER XI. The sea still ebbs and flows the same as then The same stars peep from out the midnight sky, But in those isles and bays are other men Than those who lived and died in days gone by— Those days that are so far beyond our ken. A S we pass northwards amidst the islands of the Northern Sea we still meet with many interesting objects. About those northern bays and headlands remnants of the old Scandinavian period still linger lovingly. Upon the shore of Stronsay we find places bearing the names of Oddness and Torhess, reminding the traveller of those ancient deities Odin and Thor, who were once held in reverence by the hardy sons of the wild seas. In its bay of Otterwick or Odinswick, />., the bay of Odin, the Island of Sanday recalls similar memories. Pictish times are recalled by the remains of a Pict's house at Lambhead — the southern part of the Island of Stronsay. Near this spot are the remains of an ancient jetty, on which, we may suppose, many a war galley of the Vikings disembarked its crew. At Quoyness, in Elsness, there is what appears to be a large brough — a mound which was opened in the summer of 122 Rambles in the Far North. 1867 by Mr. Farrer, M.P. At the present time its diameter is about (i2> ^'^^^5 ^i^d its height 1 2\ feet. Inside a building about 32 feet in diameter several cists were found. A passage about 1 2 feet long by 2 1 inches wide — of a nature similar to that at Maes-Howe — runs along from the south- east side of the mound. A number of decayed human skulls, which do not seem to have belonged to a very high type of man, were found here. In the course of the excava- tions many decayed bones were turned up. Four cists of a semi-circular shape were discovered within this brough — two of which contained skulls and a few human bones. The other two were empty. Three other cists of smaller dimen- sions and containing human remains were discovered. Some of the teeth found in them still preserved the enamel, and others bore evidenceto the fact that toothache must have made itself felt amongst that ancient people. In the midst of the rubbish a bone dagger, 7 inches long, a battle-axe of basalt, and a stone used for pounding corn, were found. One of the thigh bones measured 1 7 J inches long, and was fairly well preserved. It is not yet precisely ascertained whether this mound was originally a burial place or not. Some of the excavated bones were forwarded by Mr. Farrer to Dr. Thurnam of Devizes ; but that learned gentleman could only say they were of great antiquity — some male, some female, and some of children. Standing stones, Picts' houses. Rambles in the Far North. 123 and tumuli, are to be seen in almost every island of any size, and afford food for reflection to all who have a taste for such antiquarian relics. Before quitting the once happy hunting ground of the Norse sea kings, we may look for a little at an ancient ruin in Westray known as Noltland Castle. It dates its con- struction from the year 1422, when Thomas de Tulloch, Bishop of Orkney, and Governor of the Earldom under Eric of Denmark, began to rear its massive and stately walls. The central building is shaped like an oblong parallelogram, and has other buildings attached to its angles. Remains of a courtyard are to be seen, with embrasures or port holes in the walls. The windows are large, beautifully moulded, and ornamented ; and around them is the continuation of a string course of tablets, which make their appearance very effective. The basement is massive, while the upper storeys are more fanciful in design. This remarkable castle was stormed and seized by Sir William Sinclair of Warsetter in time of Bishop Edward Stewart, to whom the castle was restored. Adam Bothwell, Bishop of Orkney, was its last Episcopal possessor ; and by him it was gifted over to his brother-in-law, Sir Gilbert Balfour, master of Queen Mary's household, and Sheriff of Orkney. After her escape from the castle of Loch Leven, Mary seems to have intended ta take refuge in this northern fortress. Although its walls 124 Rambles in the Far North. were not to shield a noble Queen, they afforded shelter to the remnants of the defeated army of Montrose, and its owner Patrick Balfour paid for his hospitality by fine and •exile. "Like castles of higher celebrity," says David Vedder, "Noltland had its Brownie, and a more painstaking and industrious drudge never wielded flail or sickle, spade or pitchfork. He would even construct and repair bridges, was a very Macadam at roadmaking, hauled up boats above highwater mark during storms, and procured instantaneous medical assistance to the lady of the castle ; in short, he was as superior to his cousin of Bodsbeck as a paradise pear to a rotten pippin ; but all would not do : the thoughtless laird went on from bad to worse, and after a little of wasteful extravagance, worthy of the lords of Castle Rackrent, his necessities drove him to seek a humble home, and soon a narrow one. For one short generation, Noltland struggled against time and decay, but it has now for a century been left to the undisputed possession of the Brownie, who, by way of keeping his hand in a little employment suited to his great age, celebrates the births and marriages of the Balfours by a kind of spectral illumination. This piece of superstition, noticed by Sieger, in his ' Theatrium Scotiae,' is of Norwegian derivation, and I confess I am somewhat disappointed that the unshapely drudge should not hav« Rambles in the Far North. 125 illumined his unearthly crust on the death of the member of this distinguished family also. The tomb-fires of the north are again and again alluded to in the Norse Sagas. William, Lord Sinclair, Prince of Orkney, and as many more titles as would weary the patience of a Spaniard, founded the superb chapel of Roslin, not only as a place of public worship, but as a sanctified receptacle for his re- mains and those of his descendants. This beautiful fiction was imported from Orkney along with its Prince, and the mighty Makkar of the north, has not been slow in seizing on the incident. The beauteous Rosabelle, the Rose of Roslin, perished in crossing the Forth ; and * O'er Roslin all that dreary night A wondrous blaze was seen to gleam ; 'Twas broader than the watch-fires's light, And redder than the bright moon-beam. Seemed all on fire that chapel proud, Where Roslin's chiefs uncoffined lie ; Each baron for a sable shroud, Sheathed in his iron panoply. Seemed all on fire within ; around, Deep sacristy and altars pale, Shone every pillar, foliage bound, And glimmered all the dead men's mail.' To supply the omission, however, on the death of a Balfour, their rocky hound, who has followed the fortunes of the family for centuries, might have uttered such unearthly 126 Rambles in the Far North. bowlings from his cadaverous jaws as only Mrs. Radcliffe would have imagined^ not described^'' In his notes on Orkney and Zetland, published in 1822, Sheriff Peterkin includes a poem written, I believe, by the late poet Malcolm. In that poem Noltland Castle is thus referred to : — On Noltland's solitary pile The last blush of the dying day Plays like a melancholy smile, And hectic glow on pale decay ; Such o'er consumption's cheek will stray, Ere the long night-shade round it lies, Life's last gleams, ere it wane away, Its setting'sun and evening skies. The moss of years is on the wall, And fitfully the night-winds start Thro' Bothwell's roofless ruined hall, Like sobs of sorrow from the heart : Upon each floor of cold damp sod The clustering weeds like hearse-plumes nod,- Thro' chambers desolate and green Hoots the grey owl at evening's close, — Meant for far other guests, I ween, — Where wave- worn beauty might repose, And find that bliss in love's caress Which hallows scenes of loveliness. On this rugged coast, with its precipitous rocks, is a cave historically connected with the Jacobite movement in Scot- land. After the disastrous rebellion of 1 745, twelve gentlemen of Prince Charles Edward Stuart's army fled from their Rambles in the Far North. 127 pursuers and concealed themselves amid Orcadian wilds in this lonely cavern. Through a cold winter season these fugitives dwelt in this wild spot, from which they afterwards fled to Rapness. The strong attachment of Scottish hearts could not be broken even by the hardships of a fugitive life, and Scotia's noblest blood was shed like water for an unworthy cause. The fire of the ancient Vikings had not died out of Orcadian hearts, and many a hardy descendant of the Norsemen took arms for "bonnie Charlie." — When Albyn's men of mountain blood Rushed down, like their own torrent's flood. To place the Stuart upon that throne They warmly deem'd by right his own, E'en in these isles each nobler heart Burned in his cause to bear a part ; But when the cloud of war rolled back, And, like December's storm-smote rack. Scourged darkly o'er its dreary sky, In scattered ruin far did fly ; When stretched revenge her gory hand. Against the bravest of the land, Then found they shelter in those caves. Where sung to them the winds and waves : In safety from the hand of power, They passed away their darkening hour. Not many years ago, the indefatigable hand of the seeker after antiquarian relics laid bare a Pict's house of consider- able size in the little island of Papa-Westray. There is a large central apartment communicating with smaller ones at each end. Around these are a number of small cells, twelve 128 Rambles in the Far North. in all, of which two are double, connected by passages with the central apartment. The extreme width is very nearly 80 feet. Remains of similar Picts' houses or broiighs are still to be seen in Rousay. In this island Jarl Sigurd resided ; and it was here, according to the Orkneyiuga Sdga, that Swein the Viking, son of Aslief, seized Jarl Paul Hakonson and carried him away to Athol about the year 1 136. The scene of this exploit still bears the name of Sweinrow, and is situated near Westness House. Not long ago a sword was turned up by the plough here and believed to be a relic of that twelfth century exploit. Here, as elsewhere, are many broiighs^ tumuli and Standing Stones, many of which lie in the valley of Sourin, which divides the island from west to east. In the autumn of 1880 tumuli on the farm of Corquoy were opened and the follow- ing account of them appeared in Chambers' Journal of January 1881 : — ** The spot where the explorations were made is a singularly beautiful and peaceful one. A wide amphitheatre of hills shuts out all view of the sea, save to the eastward, where a glimpse is visible, with Eagilshay, Eday, And islands that together lie As quietly as spots of sky Among the evening clouds. Were it not for the dull roar of the Atlantic, heard over the Northern hills, one would scarcely think the land was sea-girt. About half way up this valley may be seen a group of five grassy mounds close together, the largest about five feet high and fifty feet in circumference, the smallest only a little above the level. On being opened each mound Rambles in the Far North. 129 was found to contain a stone coffin or cist averaging two and a half feet in depth. These cavities are partially filled with a heap of fine black ashes mixed with calcined fragments of bone, all the surroundings being clearly fire-marked. The most interesting discovery, however, was that of an oval shaped urn or *pot ' in the cist of the large mound, heaped with ashes and bones, and resting mouth upwards. The urn measures — diameter of mouth nine and three quarters by eight inches, height seven and a quarter inches, diameter of base four and a half by three and three quarter inches, thickness averaging a quarter of an inch. The greatest care was necessary in extricating it as it was cracked in several places ; but it was secured in fair preservation ; and along with several bone specimens, is now placed in the Antiquarian Museum, Edinburgh. The ashes in all the cists were most carefully searched, in the hope of finding some articles not unusually in such interments ; but in vain ; nothing but ashes and bone fragments remained. It was indeed strangely difficult gazing at these insignificant relics, to connect them in any way with the touch of death ; the lapse of centuries, no less than the purifying flame, had so completely robbed them of even the semblance of decay. " Undoubtedly these remains belong to the period extending from the eight to the twelfth century. The material of these urns is steatite or soapstone, and such are of frequent occurrence in Norway, but seldom met with in Scotland, and only in localities formerly occupied by the Norseman. Of these we can only say in the words of Bryant, Their share, in all the pomp that fills The circuit of the summer hills, Is, that their graves are green." Here, too, may be noticed a huge slab of stone, not unlike those in the circle of Stenness, with a very wonderful history attached to it. In the days of miracles and other superna- tural appearances there lived a mighty giant named Cubbie- row beside the Fitty Hill of Westray. He seems to have had a feeling of emnity towards some unlucky individual and was determined to punish him severely. Although his 130 Rambles in the Far North, foe had fled to Rousay, a distance of about eight miles, the giant took up his position in Fitty Hill ; and, seizing the huge slab, he hurled it at his enemy across the intervening Sound. A tremendous throw it must have been — over eight miles of sea ! Of course, it is not wonderful that the marks of Cubbierow's fingers are to be seen upon that stone unto this day ! Rambles in the Far North. 131 CHAPTER XII. ** O'er the glad waters of the dark blue sea, Our thoughts as boundless, and our souls as free, Far as the breeze can bear the billow's foam, Survey our empire, and behold our home ! " — Byron. 1\ yj IDWAY between Orkney and Shetland in the wild tides of the North Sea lies Fair Isle. ** A lonely isle 'Twixt Hetland and the Orkneys there looms forth, Uprearing high to Heaven its bold, proud head, The Fair Isle — to Shetland appertaining, And of like origin, and by like race 1 Inhabited at first. A mere insect It seemeth, from a thick swarm disjoin'd, And here alone into the wave cast down." Its lofty promontories rise above the waves that sweep in furious glee around its precipitous shores, and serve the pur- pose of a distance indicator to the passing mariner. If the surrounding sea is wild and dangerous, so are the crags that guard this solitary islet from the storm. It is inacces- sible on every side save one. That is the south-east side, where some little shelter is afforded for small vessels. One of these promontories rises in a conical form to a height of about 480 feet. In summer months this is a spot of favour- 132 Rambles m the Far North. ite resort for tourists, who give a peep at this httle gem of the oc ean, and then, elated at their daring, return to the Orcadian or Zetlandic capital. The hilly ground which overlooks the heavy ocean swell below affords abundant pasturage for sheep. It is now almost three hundred years since a Spanish Don was unexpectedly cast ashore upon this little isle. The year 1588 is memorable in the annals of English history as the one in which the Spanish Armada suffered grievous loss upon our rock-bound coasts ; and it was in that year that the flag-ship of Don Gomez de Medina was wrecked upon the island. In his description of the Isles of Zetland, Sir Robert Sibbald gives an account of this incident. The Spanish ship, which had been driven so far north by the fury of the storm, split and went to pieces in a creek on the east side of the island j " but the Duke * with 200 men came to shore alive, and wintered here in great miserie." Such a number of additional mouths to fill soon told upon the larder of Fair Isle. Before the ravenous appetites of these Spanish warriors sheep, fishes, and fowls quickly disappeared. When these means of subsistence failed their Spanish teeth were whetted on horse flesh. The islanders began to fear for the consequences of this * Since Sir Robert wrote it has been clearly shewn that it was Don Gomez de Medina, and not the Duke of Medina, who was wrecked here. Rambles in the Far North. 133 enormous feasting; and though well paid for all the strangers ate, their own lives required to be preserved. Many of them collected what food they still had and concealed it carefully out of the reach of their hungry guests. As weeks passed by prospects of a famine seemed certain, and many of them died of hunger. Reduced to such straits, the soldiers soon became so weak that some of the islanders could easily pitch them over the steep banks and thus end their misery. A boat was despatched, however, to Zetland to bring succour to the famished island. Andrew Umphrey of Bury brought the Spaniards over in his own vessel, and entertained them with better cheer. The Don remained at Quendale until his host's vessel was got ready. Here " (imagining the people did admire him), he made his interpreter ask Malcolm Sinclair of Quendale if ever he had seen such a man ? To which Malcolm, in broad Scots (unintelligible to the interpreter), replied, * Farcie, in that face, I have seen many prettier men hanging in the Burrowmoor ! ' " The Don and the survivors of his ill-fated expedition were conveyed to Dunkirk by his kind entertainer, whom he rewarded with three thousand merks. Like many more of the North sea islanders the inhabitants of this *' lovely isle of the sea " were for long inveterate smugglers. Sir Walter Scott* speaks of them as " sober, * Scott's Life, Vol. III., p. 174. 134 Rambles in the Far North. good-humoured, and friendly, but jimp honest," meaning that they had not too rigid notions of mine and thine. There are over 200 people altogether, and, no doubt, are as worthy as their Zetlandic neighbours. The crofts are small, running from four or five to ten acres of arable land. A considerable quantity of fish is cured here yearly, principally coal fish. One hundred tons or so is said to be the annual amount. Fair Isle has long been noted for its brilliantly variegated hosiery, the art of knitting which was derived from the Spaniards during their enforced residence upon the island. The women dye their own worsted and, we may add, de- mand their own prices. Many a good ship has come to grief in the dark winter nights upon the dangerous skerries that jut out along the coast. In July 1877 the steamship Duncan^ bound for Archangel, struck during a fog. An amusing incident is related about a missionary, who was on board suffer- ing severely from sea-sickness. When he heard the ship strike he fancied that they had touched at some port, and demanded that he should be put ashore immediately. On the 6th of December of that same year the German vessel Carl Consiantine struck upon Fugla stack (Fowl Stack, from Fugl, a fowl). The crew were saved, during a heavy sea, with the exception of the skipper, whose brains were dashed out while jumping ashore, and a common seaman. Rambles in the Far North. 135 During a fog on the 23d day of May 1868, the Lessing, of Bremen, with 465 emigrants on board, sailed into Claver Geo, near Sheep Craig. The passengers were rescued by Fair Isle boats, which rowed them through a tunnel, after which they were hauled up the face of the cliff by ropes. Fair Isle is joined to the parish of Dunrossness, whose minister pays occasional visits for the purpose of celebrating the sacrament of baptism and marriages. Scott relates that on one occasion quite a number of children required to be baptized in the " slump." One precocious youth, on receiving water on his face, exclaimed to the minister, " Deil be in your fingers ! " Mr. William Laurence is catechist in connection with the Church of Scotland, as well as registrar for the island. Before bidding farewell to the North Sea we shall describe some of our fishing exploits, which were very enjoyable in those summer months. One evening we formed the resolu- tion to go cod-fishing the following morning. We retired early to bed, that the morrow might find us fully prepared to make an early start. Relieved as it was with visions of monstrous fish being pulled aboard by our eager hands, the night passed quickly enough. The knocking of our landlord soon dispelled those bright anticipations; and, having thrown on our clothes, we partook of a hasty meal and set out for the beach. Our two fishing guides were there already 136 Rambles in the Far North. hauling down the boat to the water's edge and putting all the fishing gear into proper trim. The sun was just emerging from his watery bed in the smooth North Sea, and the little islands in our vicinity loomed up before us in the cold grey dawn. The scene was beautiful and peaceful ; it tended rather to send us off into a sentimental mood than to fit us for our work of slaughtering innocent cod. But the word w^as given : the boat glided from the pier, and the fishermen bent wiUingly to the oars. In forty minutes we were out on the open sea, close to the eastern entrance of the Pent- land Firth, and in a favourite spot to begin operations. Rig- ging ourselves out in oilskin suits, we prepared to shoot our lines and catch what fish we could. The line consisted of a semi-circular hoop of iron with a pretty heavy lead weight in the middle. From each end of the hoop a fathom's-length of line was suspended having a bright hook attached, and from the weight between ran the main line. The hooks were baited with limpets, or cockles, or other shell fish, and some- times with pieces of fresh herring. Having shot over our fines from the side of the boat, we allowed them to touch the bottom ; then, pulling them up for a fathom and a half, we continued drawing the fines up and down until we felt a bite, when the line would be hauled up as quickly as possible. Whenever the glistening of a cod was seen through the water Rambles in the Far North. 137 we began to get excited, and pulled away with fresh energy until we got the fish to the surface, from which • we hastily filliped him aboard. It sometimes happened that as we were on the point of landing our fish he would quietly drop off the hook and, with a waggish flop, disappear to the bottom Such fishing was very pleasant. By changing our ground occasionally we managed, with two lines, to haul aboard about three score goodly-sized cod and a few ling before the sun had reached the zenith. By this time the pangs of hunger began to make themselves felt. A supply of oat cakes and fresh milk was produced, and our natural craving quieted. Another hour or two brought a few more fish ; but after that our luck changed. Considering that we had got enough for one day, we shipped our lines, hoisted our main and jib sails, and steered for the shore before a brisk breeze. The sea air and the healthy exercise had given us a good appetite, and when we landed ample justice was done to our substantial dinner. In fine weather such excursions were our great delight, and brought their own peculiar rewards of fresh fish and fresh experience. There is a method of catching deep-aea cod other than that referred to. It is by means of an instru- ment called a " murderer " — not a very euphonious name \ — consisting of a long bar of lead measuring about eighteen inches, with numerous hooks attached, and suspended at the 13^ Rambles in the Far North. end of a long strong line. This instrument is towed at the stern of the fishing boat, and by its means many a large cod bids farewell to the Pentland Firth. It seems, however, that very many escape with torn gills and other misfortunes. Such a method of cod-fishing does not seem altogether fair, at least to the foolish fish. They expect something more substantial than cold lead and a baitless hook. But, I suppose, invention is justified of her children. Saithe-fishing is perhaps more interesting. These large black fish are caught with rods and white fly-hooks, generally in great numbers. The most suitable time for them is shortly before the gloaming until dusk. One very favourite spot for these fish is the north-east point of the little island of Switha, half-way betwixt South Walls and South Ronald- shay. There, many a summer evening as the sun was gently sinking behind the hills of Hoy, and casting its slanting rays across the Sounds, some fifty boats would be seen busily engaged in fishing for the strong coal fish. A the dusk crept on, the air would become melodious with the songs and cries of the merry fishermen, and, like the sea, ripple with their hearty laughter. One small boat would many a time come ashore with over five score of these grey fish. About midsummer of 1882 a most extraordinary take of these fish was obtained. For upwards of a week they Rambles in the Far North. 139 came down in shoals from the northern islands in pur- suit of the small sand eels, and literally made the sea appear a moving mass in many places. At this time the usual method was abandoned, and the eager fisher- men pulled the great majority of the fish aboard with clips — large hooks fixed on rods. As the multitude of grey fish swam hither and thither in pursuit of their favourite " sea-breed " the fishing-boats followed as fast, and renewed the wholesale slaughter. On shore the scene was as remarkable ; for as each boat came in with its load the scaly denizens of the deep were piled in heaps upon the beach, until the wives and fishing girls carried them away. One week of such sport seemed sufficient to drive the most of this remarkable shoal further south, where they met a similar fate. For more than a quarter of a century the like had never been experienced. Part of the same multitude of saithe was surprised off the coast of Peterhead some weeks later, when some ingenious son of science blew them up with dynamite, and strewed the surface of the sea with their lifeless bodies ! Such a method of destruction seems far more objectionable than the simple process of gaffing them from small boats. During the spring season herring-fishing is carried on in a very peculiar manner. Four ordinary stocking wires are suspended horizontally upon a line at intervals of about 140 Rambles in the Far North. eighteen inches; at the end of each wire a small bright hook is attached with about six inches of small cord, and the end of the line is weighted by a piece of lead. No bait whatever is put upon the hooks, and the line is sunk to the bottom from the side of the boat and kept in constant motion up and down. The herring appear to be attracted by the bright hooks, for three or four at a time are usually hauled aboard. The time best suited for this kind of fishing is between sun- set and dusk. Rambles in the Far North. 141 CHAPTER XIII. " Peace to the husbandman, and a' his tribe, Whase care fells a' our wants frae year to year ! Lang may his sock and cou'ter turn the glebe, And bauks o' corn bend down wi' loaded ear." Robert Fergusson. IVIUCH of the land in Orkney is freehold, burdened with feu-duties to the Crown or to the Earl of Zetland. Formerly a large portion of the land was held under udal or allodial tenure.* Proprietors under this system were called Udallers, and they required no written right; but it has since come to be held under charter and sasine like land in the other districts of Scotland! The Udaller was somewhat * ** Udal-land is such as the owners have in All-hood, acknowledging none but God alone for it. Latin writers call this Alodium, or Alodum . the Orkneymen and Shetlanders Authil, Uthel or Udal. A compound of Tuetonick Ode, signifying property or possession, and of Ole or Ale, — which in the same language, signifies ancient. And thus by an Udal or Alend, an Odal or Alod, is meant an ancient inheritance patrimony or possession." — Mackenzie's ** Grievances," p. 103. + There are few Udallers at the present day in Orkney, though in Shetland many small land holders possess their lands by this ancient and honourable tenure. It still exists, however, in Norway. The Norwegian proprietors (or bonde, as they are called) "hold their land on what is called udal tenure, and pay no duty, real or nominal, to feudal superiors. There appears, however, to be a species of entail connected with the udal tenure ; for, if the udalman alienate his land to a stranger, the next of kin has the right of redemption. " See *' Behind the Scenes in Norway,' by \V. L. McFarlan, p. 124 (Glasgow: 1884.) T42 Rambles in the Far North. like the English yoeman. " He was a peasant, for he tilled his own land and claimed no distinction among his free neighbours ; but he was also noble, for there was no heredi- tary order superior to his own. The king might wed the Odaller's daughter or match his own daughter to the Odal- born without disparagement, for he himself was but the Odal-born of a larger Odal. . . . The King might en- force the military services of the Jarl — the Odaller owed none to any of them. Nothing short of actual invasion entitled the Jarl to call them to arms by the Ward-fire, and with all their passion for the sport of war, many a right and immunity they won or redeemed, as the price of their con- sent to some foreign Viking-for.""^ A udal tenure was the exact antithesis of a feudal one, and passed, as we have said, without writing to the descendants of the Udallers. " The full Odals-jord, or birthright of the udaller, em- braced, with minor privileges, (i) a share of the lands within the garth or enclosure of the ' toun ' or hamlet ; (2) a share in the scattald, or pasture outside the hill dykes of the ' toun,* proportionate to his share in the town lands ; and (3) a right of joint succession, along with his brothers and sisters, to the lands of his ancestor." * These possessors were known as -" Balfour's OppressioJis in the Islands of Orkney and Zetland, Inlro., p. 31. Rambles in the Far North. 143 Boondi, or Freemen ; while another class, called the unfree, was originally composed of the thralls of the UdalleYs. The Odals-jord resembled a Middle-Age guild or corporation, which bestowed certain privileges upon all within its pale. The farms, generally small, vary from six or eight acres to several hundreds : in the North Isles a few extend to over one thousand acres. Besides the arable lands, called penny- lands, merklands, farthing-lands, and cowsworths, each farmer has the right to send so many cattle or sheep to the common hill, and to cut peats in the bogs or mosses adjoin- ing the farm. Where there are small uninhabited islands in good pasturage the people on the next have the right to keep sheep there, of number according to the extent of their holdings. On such islets or holms several hundreds are often seen. They are allowed to run wild ; and are only interfered with when a farmer requires some fresh mutton, or when the shearing season comes round. On these occasions the sheep are all driven by dogs down to some low part of the shore, where they are confined, as in a natural pen, until the desired animals have been taken from the flock. Besides the right of peat moss, every farmer has also the right to a certain portion of the sea-ware which the tide casts up upon the beach. Where three or four farms adjoin a certain part of the coast line they generally collect the whole of the sea-weed in slump, and then divide it 144 Ramhles in the Far North. according to the extent of their lands. During the last twenty years or so farming in Orkney has advanced with rapid strides ; so great, indeed, has been the progress that these islands can now compete with many far more favoured districts of Scotland. The old Orcadian plough, so peculiar in itself, has now been consigned to the keeping of the antiquarian ; and its place has been taken by more modern implements. The old-fashioned instrument of agriculture was very generally used in 1814, the date of the Agricultural Report on Orkney, and it is still to be seen in use at Rackwick, in the parish of Hoy. It consisted of one stilt, devoid of either ground wrist or earth board ; and when in motion it required the weight of the ploughman upon one side to press it into the soil. Three or four oxen yoked abreast drew it along : it generally did no more than scratch the surface of the ground. With such a plough, it need not be wondered, farming in the far north was more primitive than profitable. It is interesting to compare the following account of Orcadian farming two hundred years ago with that of the present day. " Their arable ground," writes Mr. Brand,f * Sheriff Rampini's Shetland and the Shetlanders, p. 55. + A Brief Description of Orkney, &c., by Rev. John Brand — 1700. p. 28. Rambles in the Far North. 145 "is better and more fertile, than at first to strangers appearetb, whence I heard some gentlemen declare, It was wonderful to think, how great the product of these isles is, considering the many barren mountains and much waste ground that are in them. They dung their land for the most part with sea- ware, which having gathered, they suffer to rot, either on the coasts, or by carrying it up to the land upon horses or on their backs, they lay it in heaps, till the time of labouring approach ; which is the reason why the skirts of the Isles are more ordinarily cultivated, and do more abound with corn, than places at a greater distance from the sea, where they have not such gooding at hand. Their ploughs are little and light, having only one stilt, and but Httle iron in them ; hence when at the end of the ridge, he who holds it lifts it up and carries it to the other side of the ridge, and if he please may carry it home on his shoulders : the reason they give of this is, that although some of their ground be strong, yet their beasts are weak and unable to go through with a plough of any con- siderable weight." David Vedder informs us, in his sketch of the " Laird of Yarpha," that the old Orcadian plough was like " a large Roman he] fallen to the ground, like Dagon before the Ark." He also gives us an amusing picture of an old " pickie laird," at the tail of such a plough. " What a delightful treat," he says, "it would have been to some Lothian 146 Rambles in the Far North. Triptolemus to have seen him on a spring morning ploughing his fields, like another Cincinnatus, dressed in a sheep-black coat, waistcoat, and breeches, bedizened with large pewter buttons of his own casting ; long, lank, sandy hair issuing unformed, unshorn, from beneath his broad blue bonnet \ a long, bare, scraggy neck, bronzed with the suns of forty sum- mers; nose somewhat aquiline, with a brown aqueous substance pendant therefrom ; upper lip begrimed with beggar's snuff while his legs were enveloped in twisted straw, generally known by the name of ' strae-boots ! ' " The harrows were somewhat like the plough, being all wood, and did little else than comb the soil. On little plots it was a common sight to see women drag them along ; and even in the year of grace, 1883, the present writer has seen the same thing ! In those primitive days grain was winnowed, not by means of fanners, but upon the top of some " fairy-knowe," where the wind performed the necessary operation. At that time, too, the method of portage was peculiar : two creels, called " the clibber and mazy," upon the backs of ponies constituted all the means of carriage. These creels, which were often made of straw, were termed "cubbies" or "cazies." In them the people carried peats from the moss, or grain from the mill. Carts have now taken their place ; it is very rarely that the traveller sees the more primitive custom which reminds one of a half-civilized period before the Rambles in the Far North. 147 -steamboat sounded its shrill whistle amidst the solitudes of rocky islets or in the dull haze of North Sea fog. It was many a long year before the small Orcadian farmers could be persuaded to depart from the primitive methods and to adopt the more- approved and modern style. They were " dour Conservatives," loath to quit the customs of their forefathers. The example of some gentleman farmers of a more practical and improving turn of mind soon brought an agreeable change ; and at the present day the art and science of husbandry is practised with a skill that commends itself to every scientific agriculturist. A regular rotation of crops is in general practice ; while turnips, potatoes, and artificial grasses are profitably grown. Some of the heaviest and most beautiful crops of oats and here that I have ever seen are raised on many of these islands. The great pro- ductive manure employed is sea-weed, which forces up crops unsurpassed in any other part of the north of Scotland. The quality of the grain may not, perhaps, be in complete conformity with the quantity of the straw ; but the harvest iield of a small Orcadian farmer is much superior to that of many a farm in the county of Fife. When the holdings are small the land is cultivated with as much attention and care as many a large garden. That may explain the remarkable fertility of some of the soil. Land recently formed from hill or moss is not so good, and the crops raised are deficient in strength and quality. 148 Rambles in the Far North. On account of the humidity of the chmate and the lack of continued snows and frosts, the rearing of cattle and sheep is more profitable than the cultivation of cereals. The cattle, which appear to be much larger than those in the northern counties of Caithness and Sutherlandshire, are a very satisfactory source of revenue to the owners. The breed of native sheep is the oviscaiida brevi^ "the short-tailed sheep," of Iceland and Shetland. Sheep of this kind are allowed to run almost wild upon the hills and smaller islands. To all appearance they are not a very profitable investment ; yet their wool is of a very fine texture, and much prized by the fair sex. Amongst others are to be seen flocks of Swed- ish merinos, South Downs, Cheviots and crosses. The system known as the "run-rig," so prevalent in the West Highlands, also existed, until lately, in Orkney. Under this system the lands of the different tenants were mixed together in admirable confusion. In the harvest-time each farmer distinguishes his sheaves from those of his neighbours by the peculiar way in which he tied the band. "The process," says Mr. Gorrie,"^ "by which the run-rig lands were laid into severalty was called ' planking.' Each town- ship, or group of small farms, in Orkney goes under the denomination of so many pennylands, farthing-lands, cows- * Stanmers and Winters in Orkney, by Daniel Gorrie, 2d Ed.^ P- 303. Ranihles in the Far North. 149 worths, settens, and marklands. These divisions — indicating no definite extent of ground, and differing even in conter- minous townships — corresponded originally perhaps to the amount of land-tax paid at some remote period. In the process of planking, which threw the common field into severalty, separate sections of the arable and grass lands were assigned to the various holders in proportion. to the number of pennylands, farthing-lands, cowsworths, and other denominations represented in their title-deeds. The average extent of each plank was about an acre, but the system of redistribution, thus commenced, was not satisfactorily com- pleted until the different heritors, renouncing their portions of land that lay sparsim over entire disticts, and receiving equivalents elsewhere, succeeded at last in compacting their properties, and in rendering agricultural progress possible." After the " run-rig " system was abolished the advance in the agricultural prospects of Orkney was rapid. Larger farms became prevalent, better implements were introduced, muirland was reclaimed, and farming became more profitable than ever it had been before. An idea of the great progress made can be obtained from a glance at the Appendix, where a year's exports are given. The only representatives of the old Udallers are now to be found in the " hundred lairds of Harray," who cultivate the freeholds which remain in their possession. All rents are now paid in money, payment in 150 Rambles in the Far North. kind having fallen into disuse. In the smaller isles farming and fishing are carried on together, and between the two a comfortable living is obtained. It may be interesting to observe in what light the farmers and crofters of Orkney regard their present position. This can be done by a glance at the evidence brought before the "Crofter's Commission" in the latter part of July 1883. One grievance, which, indeed, is common to the whole of Scotland, is the want of compensation for improvements to outgoing tenants. It is very hard that a man should be squatted upon a piece of moorland, and, after long years of hard labour which has rendered the soil much more valuable, be charged a high rent for what he has produced himself. The want of fixity of tenure is much felt in many of the islands, few leases being in force. One old Orcadian custom ought to be abolished at once, that of compelling small crofters or tenants to labour for the large farmers whenever required. This was very aptly described by Mr. Fraser- Macintosh as " forced labour." The wages received for such work are small. It is alleged on the other hand that unless for this custom it would be impossible to work the large farms ; but if that is the case it would be much better to divide these large farms into smaller ones of about 40 acres or so, which would support a family respectably and comfortably. Leases never seem to have been demanded Rambles in the Far North. 151 by Orcadian tenants, and there is no doubt that if they really desired leases they would receive them at once from the Earl of Zetland and other proprietors. When one comes to compare the farms and dwelling- houses in Orkney with those of the Western Hebrides and Shetland they see a marked contrast. The houses found here are quite different from the long black huts of the Lewis, being built of dry rubble, a kind of flagstone prevalent in the county. The fields are well cultivated, and very high prices have been received this season (1883) for cattle. Yearlings run from ;^7 to ;^io, while two-year- old beasts go from £^\o to over £,20. It appears that many of the small crofters are forced to manufacture kelp, and to cut peats for very inadequate pay. The profits de- rived from kelp should be shared in by those who do all the drudgery in the course of its manufacture ; such an arrange- ment would only be fair to the crofter. The grievances in the Orkney Islands, however, are small, and may easily be remedied if the proprietors and tenants would take a ra- tional view of matters. At the present time Orcadians are better clad and housed than ever they have been. Instead of their feet being encased in " rivellings," the Orcadian ploughmen'now wear leather boots and shoes. Ploughmen's wages have advanced considerably within the last thirty years. Where 152 Rambles in the Far North. a man in 1851 received from ^3 los. to ;£t^ 15s. in the half-year, he now receives from £^Z to^j^^io, with the same amount of meal, milk, and potatoes. It would be a good plan to transfer good ploughmen to vacant crofts, for they would be the most likely persons to improve the soil to the best advantage. The class of small proprietors, at one time so numerous, unfortunately seems to be growing less ; but a few are still to be met with in most Orcadian parishes. The parish of Harray occupies the unique position of being mainly owned by small lairds, who farm their own land. The valuation of the parish amounts \.o J[^\2ic) los., and there are 155 holdings, 5 being under ;£i, 53 between jQ\ and ^5, 90 between ^^ and ;£"3o, 7 over ;£"3o, and i at ;£"5o. The commonty has been divided amongst the heritors, and being chiefly moorland pasture, is of very poor quality. In Birsay there is a number of small lairds also. The Earl of Zetland owns ;^i2oo of a total rental of ^^2621 12s. yd. Seventy-six proprietors own the remainder. There are 309 holdings, of which 10 are between ;^3o and ;£"ioo in value, 2 over ;£"ioo, and 297 under ^30. An ordinary farm is valued at from ^6 to ;^2o, and contains from 12 to 40 acres. The small lairds of Harray and Birsay seem to be very contented and prosperous, and have nothing at all to complain of. At a former time the feu-duty paid to the Rambles in the Far North. 153 Earl of Zetland used to be in butter, malt, oatmeal and poultry ; but now they are all paid in money. Since steam communication was opened with the south, the prospects of Orcadians have become ever so much better ; the best mar- kets are now open for their produce.* The general style of farm-houses is much superior to what prevailed a few years ago. Proprietors seem to be desirous to improve the dwellings of their tenants : none deserves more praise than J. G. Moodie Heddle, Esq. of Melsetter, on whose estate large, commodious, and comfortable farm- houses have been and are still being erected. By opening up good roads, that gentleman has also much improved the parish of Walls. The ordinary cottages are built of stone and clay with a slight addition of lime. They are roofed * It is interesting to know the state of the islands nearly three centuries ago, which can be seen from the following quotation from The Abridgement or Summarie of the Scots Chronicles^ &c., by John Monipennie, (Printed at Britaines Burse, by John Budge, 1612) : p. 188. " Now follow the isles of Orknay, (of old called the realme of the Picts,) lying scattered, partly in the Deucalidon Sea, partly in the German Sea. The common people to this day are verie careful to keep the ancient frugality of their predecessors, and in that respect they continue in good health, for the most part, both in mind and body, so that few die of sicknesse, but all for age. They have barley and. oats, whereof they make both bread and drinke. They have sufficient store of quicke goods, neate, sheepe, and goates, great plentie of milk, cheese and butter. They have innumerable sea-fowles, whereof (and of fish for the most part) they make their common food. There is no venemous beast in Orknay. There is no kind of tree except hadder. They have an old cup amongst them, called St. Magnus cup, the first K 154 Rambles in the Far North. with thatch or grey slate, and are more comfortable than they look. Many of the doorways are less than five feet in height, and I have seen some where it was necessary to nearly double yourself before entering. A " but and a ben" constitute the usual apartments, with the addition, perhaps, of a closet between. In a few cases the fire-place still stands in the midst of the main apartment. After having penetrated the furthest corner cf the room, the smoke finds its way out by a hole in the roof. To a stranger entering such a place the scene is not inviting: some minutes must elapse before the occupants can be seen through the haze of smoke. But in a few minutes the scene begins to disclose itself, and after all, you find it less disagreeable than at first sight you felt it to be. man that brought the christian religion in that countrie. There are about thirty three islands in Orknay, whereof thirteen are inhabited, the remnant are reserved for nourishing of cattle. The greatest isle is Pomona ; the firme land 30 miles of length, sufficiently inhabited. It hath twelve country parish churches, and one towne, called Kirkwall. In this town there are two towers, builded not farre the one from the other ; one of them appertains to the king, the other to the bishop. Betwixt these two towers stands one church, very magnifick : betwixt the church and the towers, on either side, are sundry goodly buildings, which the inhabitants name the king's towne and the bishop's towne. The whole island runs out in promontories or heads, the sea running in, and makes sure havens for ships, and harboures for boates. In six sundry places of this isle there are mines of good lead and tin, as it is to be found in any part of Britaine." To shew the advance in population &c., since then it is only necessary to mention that instead of twelve patish churches there are now over thirty. Rambles in the Far North. 155 As you enter the main door you turn to the left, because the cows and calves claim the sole right to take the other turning. The people and the animals live under the same roof. If your eyes have been at all sharp, and not pained by the prevalence of " peat-reek," you must have observed a young pig or two lying comfortably stretched before the fire, which is generally only two inches or so above the floor. The pig's youthful days are happy ones; for during that brief period of his existence, little dreaming of the sad fate that awaits him when he has grown into a fat greasy porker, he is allowed free scope to develope himself and to enjoy the comforts of life. Quietly resting as if an honoured guest, a solitary calf may be observed in one corner of the kitchen. Hens and other fowls roost in the rafters above, or benignly perch upon the end of a long log, one part of which is slowly consuming in the fire. Around the hearth are seated Tammack and Betsy, Jimmack and Maggie, chatting away the long winter night, while the old folks blink in the ingle nook. Such a scene is still common in many of the smaller isles ; but the nineteenth- century culture and domestic science are gradually creeping round such cozy dwellings. The peasantry who live in these humble cots are more cdntented and better-to-do than those of a similar class in the south of Scotland. The reader, however, must not 156 Rambles in the Fa7' North. imagine that all the cottages of the humbler Orcadians are of such a type. Though they were once the rule, these are now becoming the exception ; and the rising generation are erecting homesteads as good and tasteful as any one may see. All classes are noted for their politeness and hospitality, and the general intelligence of the great majority of the fishermen strikes a Southerner at once. That is explained by the fact that many have been on whaling expeditions at Davis Straits, and have served as sailors on board trading vessels. The Dundee whaling fleet still takes a good contingent of Shetland men every year to the Arctic regions, and on the return voyage disembarks them in the Bay of Longhope. A peculiarity, which strikes a Scotchman more than an Englishman, is that all funerals are attended by males and females alike. When a woman dies the bier is carried the first part of the way by females, who are afterwards relieved by the men. This custom, which is more common in England and Ireland than in Scotland, appears to be of great antiquity in Orkney. "*" When a marriage is celebrated it is considered a very important event in the island ; and sometimes the rejoicings * As.the accuracy of these remarks has been questioned by a reviewer of the first edition I may add that they are written from personal knowledge. Such a custom, as here referred to, was seen by the wricer in one of the South isles. Rambles in the Far North. 157 last for several days. The company, often large, assembles at the place of rendezvous ; and, the ceremony having been duly performed by the parish minister, the feasting and jollity begin in earnest. Immediately after the knot is tied the cogue is circulated. The cogue or " leem " is a large wooden bowl filled with liquor, a mixture generally of wine, ale, whisky, &c. Each guest tastes, and then, pledging at the same time the health of the happy pair, passes on the bowl to his neighbour. The dance then begins ; and when a few hours have been spent in that way " an adjournment is made " for supper. Then dancing is resumed. When any of the company tire they can either sleep in the house or go home to their own dwellings. They return the following day; and the festivities are not allowed to flag until the second or third day, when the feast comes to an end. Such lengthy festivals are now getting out of fashion ; and I think that is well. " Time and tide wait for no man," far less for customs. Oblivion gapes and swal- lows all it can receive, and consigns everything to the bosom of a forgotten past. No wonder our great poet said that ** We are such stuff as dreams are made of, And our little life is rounded with a sleep." Lest we disturb the solitude of Lethe's dream, we will let that mighty past sleep on. 158 Rambles in the Far North. CHAPTER XIV. ** Yes ! let the rich deride, the proud disdain, The simple pleasures of the lowly train ; To me more dear, congenial Lo my heart. One native charm, than all the gloss of art." — Goldsmith. TT is a matter of regret that so many of the good old customs of Scotland are gradually dying away, at least falling into disuse. Among the many may be numbered the harmless and innocent sports of Hallowe'en, which Burns has commemorated in immortal verse, as the time when " Merry, friendly, country folks, Together do convene. To burn their nits, and pou their stocks, And haud their Hallowe'en." In Orkney and Zetland the mysteries of Hallow Eve are still to a certain extent kept up. A fellow tourist describes as follows the revels he wit- nessed in these islands : — " On the evening of Hallowe'en some years ago, and about eight o'clock, the noise of foot- steps was making towards the house where I lodged ; and in a brief interval a gentle rap at the kitchen door intimated that admittance was requested. The servant had been per- mitted to visit her friends on that evening, to ' haud her Rambles in the Far North, 159 hallowe'en ;' and my landlady, who, it appears, was a stranger in this immediate district, and who was employed at the time, sent her little boy to open the door. The youngster no sooner opened it than he gave a yell, and took to his heels, seeking the 'benmost bore,' where I was seated in company with a gentleman from Strathmore. ' What's the matter with you, my little fellow,' said I; *who are you?' He could hardly give me an answer ; but kept gaping and gasping, and roaring, * They're a' white B — a, they're a' white; will they tak's — t'inkest doo?' I had scarcely time to thoroughly understand what he said, when in rushed my landlady, shrieking, in a half-stifled voice, that the kitchen was full oi fairies ; and had we not instantly assisted her to a seat, I believe she would have fainted and fallen, for her lips and nose were as bloodless and white as drifted snow, and her knees were trembling like a dock leaf. * Fairies,' quoth the gentleman, * by I'll have a shot at them ;' and as he rushed upstairs for his fowling-piece, which I knew was loaded, I whispered to my landlady not to be afraid, as perhaps the fairies were come to pay me a visit. I felt I had committed an error, for my remark only tended to increase her terrors ; and I said nothing to pre- vent the gentleman from seizing a loaded gun to clear the house of the supposed * spirits of the hill.' Were the gentle- man to present the gun, I inferred, the fairies would take i6o Rambles in the Far North. to flight, and the object of their mission would be des- troyed. To prevent this, I proposed we should enter the kitchen unarmed, and speak kindly to the mountain strangers, who, for aught we knew, were come to visit us on business of importance. I was the first to enter ; but I hastily retraced a few steps as soon as I saw the kitchen literally full of beings, whose appearance, being so unearthly, shook the gravity of my muscles, and forced the cold sweat to ooze out from every pore in my body. There they stood like as many statues, one of whom was far above the rest, and of gigantic dimensions. Eyes, mouths, or noses, they had none ', nor the least trace of a countenance. They kept up an incessant grunt, grunt, grunt, or a noise partly resem- bling swine and turkey cocks. Their outer garments were as white as snow, and consisted of petticoats below, and shirts on the outside, with sleeves and collars. They were all veiled^ and their head dresses or caps were about eighteen inches in height, and made of straw twisted and plaited. Each cap terminated in three or four cones of a crescent shape, all pointing backwards and downwards, with bunches, of ribbons of every colour raying from the points of the cones. The spirits, for such they appeared to be, had long staves, with which they kept rapping on the floor. Between them and the door stood one as black as ' Horni ; ' but more resembling a human being than any of the others. His Rambles in the Far North. i6i head dress was a South-wester^ and he had a keshie on his back. My landlady by this time had considerably recovered and the sight of the keshie tended greatly to allay our doubts, and we all ventured into the kitchen. Immediately upon our entering the kitchen they formed themselves into pairs and commenced hobbling and dancing. When asked what they wanted the keshie was presented ; and in it was a piece of mutton and other eatables. Their chieftain, or leader, muttered in a disguised and guttural tone of voice, that they would take anything we chose to give them. My landlady gave them some mutton and oat- cakes, with which they appeared highly elated, and returned thanks with bows and curtseys ; but still kept up the incess- ant grunting. Before leaving the door, however, they inquired of me, in the same guttural tone of voice, if they should go to the Minister's. 'Certainly,' said I; 'be sure you go there, and give him a specimen of your dancing; for the minister is a very liberal gentleman, and will, I doubt not, fill your keshie.'" Such is a description of what was common enough some thirty years ago in the Far North. When a band of guizards have had a fair night's work they generally assemble at some rendezvous, where all the good things are disposed of in a festive manner. The leader of the gang is known by the name of Scuddler^ while the one with satanic appearance is 1 62 Rambles in the Far North. called Judas. Around some large kitchen fire the fairies of an hour before are transformed into ordinary mortals, busily engaged in such culinary arts as roasting fowls and fish, which, along with the oat-cakes, soon disappear from view. The " cups that cheer but not inebriate " are circulated round the merry group, with, perhaps, a taste of something stronger than tea. When the feasting is over, and the "wee short 'oor ayont the twal " has come, another ceremony awaits its due performance. The customary dram-glass half-full of water, with a fresh egg, is entrusted to the care of a matron who is well known for her insight into the dim future. The reader of future events, upon whose ipse dixit all the hopes and fears of the merry guizards hang, seats herself in their midst and gently pours a little of the white of the raw egg into the glass, exclaiming, " An' whase forthun' o' thee lams, is this i' the glaiss? Thine, I daresay, Maigie." The Maggie mentioned is the oldest unmarried woman in the company. *' Weel, trouth, lam," says the matron, " thou'll sthune be richt aneuch. Leuk'st thoo there^ Maigie, at that saxear (six-oared boat) comean fae the haaf fu' tae the wayles (gun- wales) o' ling an' tosch. Na micht I trive, Maigie ; but I see a braw new hoos nived wi' poanes (cut turf), an' nae less than twa marks o' laund." Such important information brings the Norse blood to the damsel's cheeks, and fills her eyes Ratnbles in the Far North. 163 with a glow of/satisfaction. " Twa marks o' laund," thinks Maigie ; " that wad keep twa coos, an' twa mares, an' twa rools (year-old ponies) ; aye, that wad it /" In all the islands of Orkney there are still kilns attached to almost every barn. Though now disused, they remain as memorials of a past generation and relics of an abandoned custom. Formerly every Orkney farmer dried his grain in one of these kilns ; but now they have been superseded by more modern inventions. On Hallow Eve it is a common custom for youthful maidens to possess themselves of a clew of worsted, and to mount the top of the nearest kiln, just as the gloamin' is beginning to merge into night. Unwinding the clew, the damsel lets it drop inside the kiln, exclaiming at the same time, "Wha hads on to my clew's end?" If the fates have been properly propitiated she receives the answer from her lover, who, stationed below, calls his name up the opening, and thus confirms the secret longing of her heart. It gener- ally happens that lovers are pretty well informed as to when and where the operation is to be performed ; so the fond wish does sometimes in the end evolve itself into reality. On one occasion a young lass sallied forth to her master's kiln to perform the necessary ceremony, and to discover who her husband was to be. Observing the move on the girl's part, a certain old dame resolved to give her a sur- prise, and hastened off to station herself at the foot of the 164 Rambles in the Far North. kiln. When the lass cried down, " Wha hads on to my clew's end?" she heard, in answer, "The Devil !" Being of a superstitious turn of mind, and thoroughly believing the reply to be genuine, the maiden took to her heels and hid herself within the house. No consideration would in- duce her to go outside the door on that Hallow Eve ! Customs such as these still linger amid the green islets of the Northern Sea. They seem loath to quit a scene re- nowned in story and in legend as a rendezvous of witches and trows, who stay within the green hills and sea-washed caverns, until the gloamin' of Hallow Eve invites them forth to hold their revels, and to weave another piece of the great web of fate. These remnants of a gigantic superstition have almost passed away, and Hallow Eve is now a time of jollity and of mirth, when young hearts warm towards each other as the story circles round the hearth, and as the nuts crackle in the bright peat fire. Long may our youth enjoy their Hallowe'en, " When all the world is young, lad, And all the trees are green ; And every goose a swan, lad, And every lass a queen ! " " Superstition," says Sir Walter Scott, " when not arrayed in her full horrors, but laying a gentle hand only on her suppliant's head, had charms which we fail not to regret, even in those stages of society from which her influence is Rambles in the Far North, 165 well-nigh banished by the light of reason and general edu- cation. At least, in more ignorant periods, her system of ideal terrors had something in them interesting to minds which had few means of excitement. This is more espe- cially true of those lighter modifications of superstitious feelings and practices which mingle in the amusements of the ruder ages, and are, like the auguries of Hallowe'en in Scotland, considered partly as a matter of merriment, partly as sad and prophetic earnest. And with similar feelings, people of tolerable education have, in our times, sought the cell of a fortune-teller, upon a frolic, as it is termed, and yet not always in a disposition absolutely sceptical towards the responses they receive." Several popular expressions lead us back to the same fairy realm of Valkyrie. At the present day some irate dame maybe heard exclaiming "Trow tak' thee !" to her unmanageable children. To turn a boat against the sun or widder-shins at the beginning of a voyage is considered to be unfavourable. Fishermen studiously refram from saying the word " Kirk *' while setting out upon a fishing excur- sion ; for if they do so they are certain to have ill-luck. If they must refer to the Kirk, it is by the name of the Heulie, meaning the holy place, or bilanhoos, or banehoos. Ministers must not be spoken of either. They are mentioned as Up- standers, hoydeen, ox prestingolva. A knife is called skunie, 1 66 Rambles in the Far North. or tullie ; the devil, da Auld Chield^ da Sorrow^ da ill-healt (health), or da black tief. It was not lucky to see a cat crossing the path, nor even to mention it ; a cat was called kirsor, fitting, vengla, ox foodin. It was a very unlucky thing to tread upon the tongs, which were known under the name of clivin, or to be asked as to one's destination. Marriages celebrated on a Thursday, and while the moon is growing — the waning moon being thought unpropitious — are regarded as very fortunate. Friday is said to be a bad day on which to celebrate a marriage. That contrasts strangely with what prevails in the South of Scotland, where Friday is looked upon as the most propitious day for such a celebration. Such inconsistencies may well shake any- one's belief in the efficacy of all similar observances. In a few outlying corners of remote islands one or two charms may be met with. These are generally to ensure safety at childbirth, and consist of pamphlets containing a copy of the letter sent by Abgarus, King of Edessa, to our Saviour, and the reply to the same, along with the letter of Lentulus to the Roman Senate concerning Christ. How such apocryphal documents came into circulation amidst the islands of the North Sea, and for such a purpose, is hard to determine. Probably some itinerant merchant or yagger introduced them among the gaieties o Kirkwall Fair, when that market was in its palmy days. Ramhles in the Far North. 167 Many peculiar words, mostly of Norse derivation, are still to be heard in the every-day conversation of these Islanders. The names apphed to the different parts of a boat, to imple- ments of agriculture, and to fishing gear are all of this des- cription. In Orkney the majority of topographical names are of Norse origin, while in other parts of Scotland they are Celtic. A few examples^may be given here. An Ayre (Norsk ore) is a low sandy promontory, while Ey is an is- land. Bo^ or Bu, is the name applied to the principal farm in a parish. Cleat is a rock or elevation : Dale^ a valley ; Flaes., a sunny spot ; Geo (old Norsk gja), a narrow creek ; Gaert (Norsk garthr\ a large farm. This last word also exists in other parts of Scotland, as Gerth or Garth, used in the same sense. Houte (Norsk hangr)^ is a roound or ele- vation, e.g.y Maes-Howe. Holm is a name applied to a small grassy island. Ki'll is a spring ; Noust, a quay ; Oyce^ a water source (old Norsk os), related to the verb ouse, to throw out water, or bale a boat. Roust is a rough tide, or stormy sea ; skatl^ a clashing noise, such as that caused by the sea breaking upon the beach, cognate with skelder^ which means the same thing. The turn of the tide is called the snaar^ while the swell of the sea is the dy. The Swaar d the dim is midnight. Toft is an enclosure, and voe is a bay, the Norwegian fjord. Some very sweet expressions are used in the nursing of 1 68 Rambles in the Far North. children, and it is a very interesting thing to hear a mother croon her little one to sleep. The writer was struck with this on'more than one occasion, and especially with some of the peculiar words employed, a few of which are har- monised in the following song : — AN ORCADIAN CRADLE SONG. Ba, ba, lammie noo, Cuddle doon tae mammie ; Trowies* canna tak' thoo, Hushie ba, lammie. Me bonnie peerie+ bird, Sleepin' in me bosie ; We manna speak a word, Pirrin'sJ noo sae cosie. Ba, ba, peerie t'ing. Sleep a bonnie nappie ; Thoo'll sleep, an' I'll sing, Makin' lassack§ happy. Fedder's fishin' i' the sea, , Catchin' cod wi' herrin', Bringin' hame his fish tae thee — Tae me sonsy bairn. Ba, ba, lammie noo. Cuddle doon tae mammie ; Trowies canna tak' thoo, Hushie ba, lammie. * Trows, the fairies of Orcadian superstition. + Peerie, small, wee. X A name applied to a little girl, probably composed of peerie and ane — little one. § Diminutive of lass. Rambles in the Far North. 169 CHAPTER XV. *• We'll keep our customs — what is law itself, But old established custom ? What religion, (I mean with one-half of the men that use it,) Save the good use and wont that carries them To worship how and where their fathers worshipp'd ? All things resolve in custom — we'll keep ours." TN Orkney, as elsewhere, there still exists much of the superstitious feeling once so prevalent. It is quite a common practice amongst the Zetland fishermen, when out at the haaf or deep-sea fishing, to stick the blade of their knives into the mast to bring luck. Another plan is to spit into the mouth of the last-caught cod \ and the consequence, they say, is that it will be followed by a fish equally large or larger. Sometimes it is rather amusing to hear an old grey- haired fisherman exclaim, while hauling for cod, " Pu' doon cod ! " " come on cod ! " or interjections of similar import. Whether such invitations have any effect upon the dwellers in the briny deep is a matter of speculation. They are merely the decaying remnants of a byegone superstitious generation, and are fast following their forgotten comrades into the unfathomable realms of oblivion. While Hallowe'en had its share of attention in byegone L lyo Rambles in the Far North. days, Hogmanay was not forgotten. On that evening bands of minstrels were wont to pass from house to house and favour the dwellers with their melodies. One of these, still remembered, was the following song : — " Peace be to this buirdly biggin ' 1 We're a' Queen Mary's men, From the stethe* unto the riggin', And that's before our Lady. " This is gude New Year's even nicht — We're a' Queen Mary's men ; An' we've come to claim our richt, And that's before our Lady. *' The morrow is gude New Year's day — We're a' Queen Mary's men ; An' we've come here to sport and play. And that's before our Lady. ** The hindmost house that we came from — We're a' Queen Mary's men ; We gat oak-cake and sowen's scone ; The three- lugged cog was standing fou : We hope to get the same from you, And that's before our Lady. *' Gudewife, gae to your kebbock-creel, We're a' Queen Mary's men, And see thee count the kebbocks weel, And that's before our Lady. *' Gudewife, gae to your gealding-vat + We're a' Queen Mary's men, An' let us drink till our lugs crack. An' fetch us ane an' fetch us twa, An' aye the merrier we'll gang awa', And that's before our Lady. * Stethe = foundation. t Gealding-vat, fermenting vat. Rambles in the Far North. 171 ** Gudewife, gae to your butter-ark — We're a' Queen Mary's men ; An' fetch us here ten bismar mark ; See that ye grip weel in the dark, And that's before our Lady. ** May a' your mares be weel to foal — We're a' Queen Mary's men, And every ane be a staig foal, And that's before our Lady. * * May a' your kye be weel to calve — We're a' Queen Mary's men ; And every ane a queyoch calf. And that's before our Lady. ** May a' your ewes be weel to lamb — We're a' Queen Mary's men ; And every ane a ewe and a ram, And that's before our Lady. ** May a' your hens rin in a reel — We're a Queen Mary's men ; And every ane twal at her heel. And that's before our Lady. *' Here we hae brocht our carrying-horse * We're a' Queen Mary's men ; An' mony a curse licht on his corse ; He'll eat mair meat than we can get ; He'll drink mair drink than we can swink. And that's before our Lady." This peculiar rhyme takes its origin from the time when the Roman Church held sway. The Virgin is the " Our Lady " of the song. The friars of the Roman Church were, * The Jester, or " Baldy." 172 Rambles in the Far North. in all likelihood, the first who went the rounds like the mendicants or king's beadsmen of former days. New Year's Day is observed as a general holiday, and all the youths of the different islands assemble at some common or level ground and. spend the day engaged at the game of football. The inhabitants of the various islands which stud the North Sea appear all to enjoy this game. From the snows of Iceland to the milder clime of the Orkneys the ball is kicked into the air every New Year's Day. As illustrative of this, I quote a passage from Dr. Dasent's translation of the Saga of Gisli the Outlaw : — " Those brothers-in-law, Thorgrim and Gisli, were very often matched against each other, and men could not make up their minds which was the stronger, but most thought Gisli had the most strength. They were playing at the ball on the tarn called Sedge tarn. On it there was ever a crowd. It fell one day when there was a great gathering that Gisli bade them share the sides as evenly as they could for a game. ' That we will with all our hearts ! ' said Thorkel, ' but we also wish thee not to spare thy strength against Thorgrim, for the story runs that thou sparest him, but as for me, I love thee well enough to wish that thou shouldest get all the more honour if thou art the stronger ? ' Now they began the game, and Thorgrim could not hold his own. Gisli threw him and bore away the ball. Again Gisli wished to catch the ball, but Thorgrim Rambles in the Far North. 173 runs and holds him, and will not let him get near it. Then Gisli turned and threw Thorgrim such a fall on the slippery ice that he could scarce rise. The skin came off his knuckles, and the flesh off his knees, and the blood gushed from his nostrils. Thorgrim was very slow in rising. As he did so he looked to Vestein's house and chaunted : * Right through his ribs My spear point went crashing ; "Why should I worry ? 'Twas well worth this thrashing.' Gisli caught the ball on the bound, and hurled it between Thorgrim's shoulders, so that he tumbled forward, and threw his heels up in the air, and Gisli chaunted : * Bump on the back My big ball went dashing : Why should I worry ? 'Twas I gave the thrashing. ' Thorkel jumps up and says : ' Now we can see who is the strongest and best player. Let us break off the game ! ' and so they did." Hardly a century ago the Highlands and Islands of Scotland were the notorious scenes of many a smuggling en- terprise, and in the Northern Isles this contraband trade was well known. The Island of Stroma, lying off the shore of Caithness at the east entrance of the Pentland Firth seems to have had a very important share in such under- 174 Rmnbles in the Far North. takings ; and the following story is connected with that island : A good many years ago the excise officers of Kirk- wall were aware that an extensive trade in the manufacture of illicit liquor was being carried on by several of the inhab- itants of this lonely island ; and, do what they could, they found themselves utterly incapable of preventing or putting an end to the practice. The leader of the famous gang one day told the chief exciseman that he would give him and his men an opportunity of arresting him with smuggled goods in the following week : by that time he purposed disposing of a large cargo in the Town of Kirkwall. This information, so frankly given, was received in a rather credulous manner by the protector of Her Majesty's customs, who, notwith- standing, resolved to be on the look-out for such a lucky occurrence — if, indeed, it should take place. In the follow- ing week the bold smuggler kept his word, and landed a fine cargo at Scapa Bay. As he was carting his kegs along the road towards Kirkwall the representative of Her Majesty came upon him and seized the horse's head, announcing that the cargo was his in the Queen's name. The Stroma man, pretending to be much surprised, endeavoured to resist the assault of the custom-house officer and pulled vigorously in the opposite direction. Struggling in this manner, they pro- ceeded slowly to the Orcadian capital. At every opening the smuggler tried to get his horse and cart off the main Rambles in the Far North. 175 road ; and, at last, his opposition became so strong that the officer despatched his assistant for more aid. This was what the Stroma fellow desired and as they proceeded along the road the other fisherman, who had been walking behind began quietly, as he trudged along, to abstract all the kegs one by one from the cart and to drop them as quietly into the deep ditch which ran so handily beside him. When the custom-house was reached the amazement of the officer may more easily be imagined than described. He now saw through the stratagem of the smuggler, and knew that by this time the other fellow had disposed of the illicit goods. Having no pretext by which he might detain the sharp-witted islander he was compelled to let him go, with the hint that he would not be so fortunate the next time. Despite his determination, the next incident was as unfortunate as the first Some months after the episode related above, the excise- man received intimation that the crew were approaching Scapa with another cargo of spirits. Hurrying down to the bay he observed the yawl moored at the jetty. To make certainty doubly sure, he seized a large boulder lying by, and, going up to the side of the boat, dashed the stone through the bottom, sinking the craft as a matter of course. " There," said he, " I have got them now. They won't get their kegs up in a hurry." With this sage reflection, he 176 Rambles in the Far North. departed in search of more assistance. When he arrived at the bay the second time with his men, he found the Stroma fishermen looking eagerly for their bark. After the action of the exciseman was explained to the skipper he burst out into a loud laugh and informed the zealous officer that, this time at least, his zeal had outrun his discretion ; for all the cargo had been landed before the yawl was moored, and while he was sinking their craft they were busily disposing of their goods. The baffled officer not only lost the " find " which he imagined was so certain, but he also had to make good the damage done to the boat. Experience, no doubt, taught the exciseman its usual lesson. On another occasion a custom-house boat pursued one of the Stroma smuggling craft towards the Pentland Firth. As the pursued boat rounded Cantic Head it suddenly slipped into a large geo, which is there, and thus eluded the zealous excise officers, who sailed right on little dreaming of the stratagem. When the tide turned, the Stroma boat shot out from its temporary concealment and set sail for St. Margaret's Hope, where its cargo of smuggled liquor was soon disposed of. The unsuccessful pursuers returned late in the evening to learn with chagrin the clever way in which they had been out-manoeuvred. At another time a very exciting chase took place in the Pentland Firth towards the direction of Dunnet Head. An Rambles in the Far North, 177 excise boat was in pursuit of that of some smugglers. The chase was long and exciting. Each crew strained every nerve to get the victory, every sail was set, and every sheet was strained to its utmost. As the flying boats neared Dunnet Head the wind rose, and in a very short time the Firth had an exceedingly wild sea on, that tested the skill of the seamen to the utmost. The excise boat seemed to be unable to cope with the stormy Firth, and so gave up the chase. When this was observed by the smugglers one of their number lifted a keg to his mouth, and in a loud voice drank the baffled officer's good health. When the Rev. George Low visited Stroma in 1774 all cultivation was performed by the spade, at which the people were very dexterous. At one end of the island near the sea there used to be a tomb containing the famous natural mummies ; but, from being left exposed to the intrusion of sheep that trampled the skeletons to pieces, these soon disappeared At one time a large number of people re- sorted thither to visit this vault. These natural mummies, says Mr. Low, were preserved in the same manner as beef and mutton " by skeuing, that is by placing the body in a situation where the air can get in to absorb the juices, but insects are excluded ; so that in time the body becomes like a dried haddock." Some of these mummies also existed in Walls ; but a certain superstitious old woman buried them lyS Rambles in the Far North. from the view of mortal eye. On the west of the island several small arrow-heads {saggittae Lamiarum) of flint have been found. Not long ago the belief that the possession of these weapons prevented any interference of the fairies or trows with their cattle was very prevalent among the islanders. A good story is told of one of these islanders, who happen- ed to foregather with an old acquaintance at Longhope. When they met the two cronies adjourned to the inn, and called for two glasses of wliiskey. The Longhope man, well known for his lengthy supplications, was asked by the other to say grace. But as the Stroma'^ man fancied there was to be no end, at least for a considerable time, of the thanksgiving, he quietly drank off both glasses. When the other finished and found the liquor gone, he upbraided his companion for his conduct, especially while he was engaged in the devout exercise of prayer. " Very weel," says the Stroma fellow, " it's a' richt ; but ye manna forget that the Bible tells ye to ' Watch and pray.' Ye should hae been watchin." ! * It may be proper to mention that the real heroes of this incident were both Longhope men. Rambles in the Far North. 179 . CHAPTER XVI. ** Far as the eye could reach, no tree was seen, Earth, clad in russet, scorned the lively green." n^HROUGHOUT the various mosses in these islands are still to be found many remains of trees. Every bog, almost, contains pieces of large-sized trunks embedded amongst the moss, and in many of them the wood is well preserved. At some early period Orkney must have been graced with its waving woods, no less than the other parts of Scandinavia. Then the surface of the country must have presented a much more remarkable appearance than it does now. The mystic Druid would then, perhaps, cut his mistletoe from the boughs of some stalwart oak, and perform his religious rites within the moon-shaped circle of Stenness, or upon the rock-bound coast of some favourite isle, where " Screams round the arch-druid's brow the sea-mew — white As Menai's foam ; and towards the mystic ring "Where augurs stand, the future questioning. Slowly the cormorant aims her heavy flight. Portending ruin to each baleful rite. That, in the lapse of ages hath crept o'er Diluvian truths, and patriarchal lore. " When these woods waved and rustled in the cold north wind the principal fuel was obtained from them. Since then the i8o Rambles in the Far North. climatic influences have been slowly changing ; wood began to get scarce, and another source of heat must be dis- covered. The credit of shewing the early inhabitants the way to utilize turf for such a purpose is attributed to Einar, one of the ancient Jarls, and son of Count Rognvald. This Jarl had been sent by his father across to Orkney and Shet- land to put down a band of pirates who were devastating every place in their vicinity. After some severe contests, it appears that Einar was victorious and the pirates all slain. Having devoted some attention to the condition of the people amongst whom he had come, he noted the lack of sufficient fuel, and encouraged them to make use of the turf in the many mosses that abounded throughout the islands. From this circumstance he gained the appellation of Torf-Einar. It is an eventful day in Spring when the peats for the coming year are cut. Early in the morning there is a mustering, not of the clans, but of the neighbours who are to assist the farmer with his work ; and after a hearty breakfast is partaken of the cavalcade sets off to the hill, or rather moss. For once, at least, the dreary moor- land becomes an animated scene, gay with the coloured dresses of the women, and lively with the activity of all. From three to five men are told off for cutting the turf, which is done by means of a pecufiar spade, about four feet Rambles in the Far North. i8i in length, called a Toysker. The blade shoots out at right angles to a smaller blade and is a foot in length, while a foot up the handle a wooden nob juts out at right angles to it and the larger blade. Upon this nob the cutter places his foot and so drives down the spade into the turf. The spade cuts the peats into their proper size, and when cut they are seized by a woman, who stands in front, and thrown to the side of the bank above. The surface, however, which is generally heather, requires to be cleared ox flayed off, before the turf suitable for peats can be reached. The work goes on from morn till eve, reheved only by a rest about mid- day, when dinner and refreshments are brought to regale the busy labourers. Four or five men, with the same number of women to lift up the peats, can cut about one hundred load in a day — an amount which is, in most cases, sufficient for the wants of an ordinary homestead where nothing else is burned. In the moss there are two kinds of peat prevalent. One sort is very dark and almost black, and this is considered the best for domestic purposes. The other sort is brown and looks well, but does not burn so well as the other ; it is popularly known by the name of yarpha. There may be added a third kind, composed mainly of the upper turf, coarse and brown, which burns badly and gives an un- necessary amount of smoke. If possible it is to be avoided. When the dusk sets in the wearied peat-cutters prepare to 1 82 Rambles in the Far North. return to the homestead under whose auspices they have been labouring for the day. Arriving there they find the feast prepared — in many ways resembling an Orcadian wedding feast — and they set themselves beside the hospitable board to discuss with vigour the many good things that lie so temptingly before them. Tea and toast, ham and eggs, bannocks of bere and oat cakes, pancakes and buns, soon disappear. After full justice has been done to the supper table, the floor is cleared and a strange transformation occurs. Who could have thought that these sprightly lads and lasses, who are now " tripping the light fantastic toe" so merrily, were the same as those we saw returning wearily from a hard day's labour ? But music hath charms, not only " to soothe the savage breast," but also to give new life and vigour to the jaded limb, and to change a scene of toil into one of real enjoyment. No doubt the morrow will dawn upon some aching bodies, but that is never thought of in the midst of such innocent merriment. It is good that toil should be followed by some recreation, and our populations would be healthier and happier were there more mingling of work with play. After a few weeks the peats are set on end so that they may dry more thoroughly, and arranged in small heaps. This operation is known as raising\\\Q peats, and is often repeated. Rambles in the Far North. 185 When dry they are built in larger heaps and then conveyed home. In former days this was done by means of ponies with a pair of straw panniers or maysies, attached to a kind of wooden saddle or dibber. Such a process was termed leading the peats, and a long string of ponies might have been seen jogging along, led hy peat boys. But now it is different. After the peats are collected and carried in cassies to a suitable spot, they are carted home either by oxen or horses, and this is a much quicker plan than the old process. The time chosen for getting the fuel home is immediately before herring fishing begins, which is about the middle of July, when the majority of the men set off to the various stations to do their best at the herring harvest. Many a cold and stormy night they experience when far out at sea, but they must endure it all to " win the bairnies' breed" — ** For men must work and women must weep, Though storms be sudden and waters deep, And the harbour bar be moaning." There is one bright, red-letter day in the annals of Orcadian agriculture that must not be passed over in silence. It is a day looked forward to by all young people with great pleasure, and when passed is long remembered. It is the rooing day, when the sheep are shorn. The name is derived from the old process that was formerly in force of tearing the wool out by the roots with the hand. In Shetland this t84 Rambles in the Far North. is still done and cannot be called anything else than a bar- barous practice, which gives much pain to the poor suffering sheep. The only reason in support of it is that it makes the ensuing crop of wool of a very fine texture, and thus keeps up the high character which Shetland hosiery has obtained. In Orkney, however, we do not think this is now done, though the name rooing still preserves the ancient practice from being entirely forgotten. About the middle of the " leafy month of June," when the waving hay fields are shining in the sun, and the air is heavy with the breath of summer, the merry Orcadian shearers prepare for a day's enjoyment and toil. We must explain, however, that the majority of the sheep are kept on one of these small isles called holms, which generally extends across the mouth of every large bay. Two or three hundred are usually together on one of these islets, belonging, perhaps, to thirty or forty different persons. When the eventful day arrives two or three from every homestead that owns a portion of the flock prepare to set out with the others. It is more like a pic- nic party than anything else. Large baskets and boxes filled with all kinds of good things are carried down to the shore, where the men are busy launching the necessary boats. Young maids and girls troop along the road to the accus- tomed rendezvous dressed in their gayest costumes. Petticoats of blue, scarlet, and pink flutter in the morning Rambles in the Far North. 185 breeze, while their wrists are encased in snow-white cuifs, flowered and ironed ; the ribbons of their large sun-bonnets wave behind their backs, and their happy voices ring out now and then in innocent laughter at some joke or other that has tickled the risible faculties of some of the group. The noust or quay presents an animated appearance with men and women getting the boats hauled down and loaded with provisions and other necessary articles. " Come thoo peerie boy an' shove off this boat." " Maigie, what's keepin' thee that thoo's sae lang in comin' doon ?" "Oh! I buist bide an' tether- da coo." " Come, lassack, jump in- ower, or I'll gang awa' mesel, an' lat thee bide." With such and similar ejaculations the various boats are at last got under way, and in half an hour or so the whole party are landed upon the holm ready to begin the work of the day. And what a scene ensues ! Dogs bark, men halloo, women " raise a terrible skrach ; an' sic a wark, an' sic a murgis,* thoo never saw a' thee born days." Girls and boys run over the green knolls and drive the terrified sheep down to the shore, where^they are surrounded in a sort of natural pen. The bleating of the lambs and the baaing of the sheep mingle with the din, and for a time it is nothing else than "confusion worse confounded." At last something Kke * Murgis — a great ado, a continuous noise. M 1 86 Rambles in the Far North. order is restored. The sheep requiring to be shorn are singled out, and the clack, clack of the shears is heard. Joke and jest go round, and everything seems " merry as a marriage bell." About mid-day a stop is made, the baskets, hampers, etc., are brought forward, bottles of milk and something stronger are uncorked, and there ensues a feast — if not of reason at least — of good things. An observant eye may note here and there two objects moving slowly along the shore behind some overhanging rocks : a lad and lass that have detached themselves from the main group are now indulging in that universal pastime of love-making. There they wander beside the heaving sea, telling " the old, old story " of loving hearts that is yet ever new. May their future lot be as bright as this summer day ! As the shades of evening steal over the rippling waters, and as the sky assumes its burnished hue, which is usual in these latitudes at this time of year, the rooing party prepares to return to their island home, and once more the bustle of preparation disturbs the screeching sea birds as they circle overhead. The dip of oars is heard, sails are set, the bleat- ing sheep are left behind — their fleeces lying snugly within the departing boats — and so ends this gala day in the Northern Sea. For most it has been a pleasant and enjoy- able hoHday coming in to break the monotony of a busy Rambles in the Far North. 187 season. The sea voyage, the change of scene, the picturesqueness of the place, the merry hearts, have all tended to sweeten the associations of such -a day. It is a yearly festival — if we may so call it — that is unknown to inland agriculturists, but which is enjoyed to the full by the younger folks of many an Orcadian farm, who upon that day feel the luxury of unbounded liberty, when voice and limb find free exercise, and the glow of " purple youth "^ deepens on the sunburned cheek. At sucl\ a time " All the earth is gay ; Land and sea Give themselves up to jollity," and we feel that life has some sunny spots after all. One evening after the rooing-day we determined to accom- pany two fishermen in their endeavour to net a few herring. It was a beautiful summer evening, though somewhat cold, and we sailed out to the fishing ground in one of the ordinary yawls. The sun was just setting in all its northern splendour behind the distant hills of Hoy, whose summits gleamed in the dying glory. But though the sun disappears from view his light lingers still behind, and tinges with a ruddy glow the midnight sky. As hour succeeds hour the horizon is still bright with the mellow beauty of the depart- ing day that mingles with the coming morning. In these Orcadian sounds and bays it never seems to be night at 1 88 Rambles in the Far North. all during the summer months ; so clear is it that a news- paper can be read quite easily at one o'clock in the mornmg. On such a night we lay out upon the ebbing waters, waiting till it was time to haul the nets which we had set. Stretched out in the bottom of the boat we could hear the harsh craik of the sleepless landrail as it echoed over the fields, and now and then the wild cry of some belated sea- bird. How still, how peaceful it all seemed ! The reflection of the vanished sun gleamed upon the waters like the beams of the moon, and the scattered clouds drifted dreamily along the sky. When an hour or more had passed we began to haul in the nets, but as fathom succeeded fathom and still no signs of the glistening fish, we felt it was an un- successful haul. It was as we anticipated ; there were no fish within the meshes, and so we set them once more. Another hour passed on; the remaining lights that were still visible from many a cosy homestead gradually disap- peared, and we were alone with the moaning sea. Again the nets are pulled aboard, and this time with better luck. Seven gleaming herring are ours ! Poor sport you will say for a cold night's work ; but these seven herring, used as a bait, will procure upon the morrow no less than three score of good sized cod. Every night has not the same result. Sometimes many score of herrings are caught in these small bays for bait, and Rambles in the Far North. 189 occasionally two or three cran. It is not on so large a scale as the fishing that is done by the larger decked boats ; they often procure sixty and a hundred cran in one night. These sold for a £,\ per cran bring in a very good night's pay. Though the sea may be alive with fish, it is almost impossible to net many of them in a clear night; dull weather suits the fishermen a good deal better. We can look back to many a pleasant day and night spent upon the open sea, when our fishing-lines were in good trim and the boat well stocked with captured fish. How delightful the return to land after a good day's sport ! How sweet the slumber after all the toil ! *• Surely, surely, slumber is more sweet than toil ; the shore Than labour in the deep mid-ocean, wind and wave and oar ; Oh rest ye, brother mariners, we will not wander more." 190 Rambles i?i the Far North. CHAPTER XVII. " But lost to me, for ever lost those joys, Which reason scatters, and which time destroys. No more the midnight fairy train I view, All in the merry moonlight tippling dew. Even the last lingering fiction of the brain, The churchyard ghost, is now at rest again." A LMOST every people has, sometime or other, believed in those tiny beings who float around "this visible diurnal sphere," and mingle unseen with the affairs of men. Orkney possessed its full share of such beings. At one time it must have been teeming with trows or fairies, witches, elves, and mermaids ; but these imaginative super- stitions are fast giving way before the stern fight for gain, that so often dulls the lively imagination, and robs life of all its poetry. Beside many a gurgling burn, and upon many a green knoll, these creatures of another world held high revel, and the old Orcadian saw with awe their ghostly shapes flitting before him, as they set out upon their nightly mission to invade " The moon's sphere. Or hang a pearl in every cowslip's ear." The ingle-nook was formerly enlivened by the ready story- Rambles in the Far North. 191 teller thrilling his eager audience with his wonderful tales of these etherial beings, who could be seen ** By mountain clear, or spangled starlight sheen." The ears of childhood were enchanted by such recitals, and the youth's imagination loved to picture all the scenes of which he had been told, and to reproduce them again and again. Every spot, which was the reputed haunt of these strange trows, became clothed with a sacred and deeper interest, and looked upon with unconscious reverence. But our dull customs laugh at such gentle beings, and "hard creeds have succeeded to the fairy lore." Poor Puck, whom Shakespeare loved to picture, has been buried in the harebell, and all his race seem to have vanished from our shores. No more their airy forms steal through the moon- light after the curfew bell has tolled j we can only see dark shadows now. The fauns, and nymphs, and driads of Gre- cian and Roman poetry are dead, gone hke the mighty poets who sang their praises ! Is it not a pity, too, that we should willingly let die those delightful stories that tell of the time when every tree had its Dryad, and every fountain its Nymph ? The late Lord Lytton gives expression to that regret in his " Complaint of the Last Faun," from which we cull the following : — 192 Rambles in the Far North. " The moon on the Latmos mountain Her pining vigil keeps ; And ever the silver fountain In the Dorian valley weeps, But gone are Endymion's dreams ; — And the crystal lymph Bewails the nymph Whose beauty sleeked the streams ! " And the sun of the north is chill ; — And keen is the northern gale ; — Alas for the song on the Argive hill ; And the dance in the Cretan Vale ! — The youth of the earth is o'er, And its breast is rife With the teeming life Of the golden tribes no more." But Lord Lytton is not the only poet who has regretted the departure of those " olde dayes " when, as Chaucer sings, " All was this lond fulfilled of faerie ; The elf-queen with her jolie companie Danced full oft in many a grene mede." Orcadia itself is not without a singer who tunes his reed to such a theme. The Rev. D. W. Yair, of Firth, is the author of the following verses, which he has kindly permitted us to publish here : — Lament for the Departure of the Fairies. Alas, for the day When the fairies fled away From forest, grove, and fountain : When they ceased their lightsome play, 'Neath the moon's gentle ray, Over meadow, moor, and mountain. Ramhles in the Far North. 193 No more shall they be found, Travel all the country round, Over hill, through dale, up river : They are all underground, And hidden from the sound Of our voices, should we call on them forever. The ringing of the bells — So ancient legend tells — On the Sabbath mornings drove them Aw^ay from the fells. The valleys, and the dells, And the forest leaves above them. And the last of them, I ween. That e'er on earth was seen, Before they departed under. Was their fair and beauteous Queen, All wrapt in golden sheen. Of her own loved flowers the plunder. And wailing were her cries. And her blue and dewy eyes Were wet with the tears she was weeping ; Heart-breaking were her sighs As she looked upon the skies And the ivies round the oak-roots creeping. And remembered how no more On the cool and grassy floor Of the earth she would ever wander ; Nor sport upon the shore. Nor hear the waters roar. Nor follow the brook's meander ; Nor listen to the song Of the nightingales among The trees of the forest singing ; Nor lead her tiny throng The lily lea along. Their throats with treble laughter ringing ; 194 Rambles in the Far North. Nor loiter in the shade Of the overarching glade, When the midnight "moon is beaming," Nor head the cavalcade Of her horsemen in the raid, When the sleepy " world is dreaming ; " Nor drink the morning dew, When't has fallen fresh and new Reclining 'neath the bracken with her lover ; But forever bid adieu To the earth, and to the blue And starry-spangled heavens above her. No wonder that she cried. As she leant upon the side Of an oat-grass, with a bitter weeping ; No wonder that she sighed And would that she had died, Sorrow all her spirit steeping. But no ; she must go With her retinue below : Opened was the hillside portal ; And, with steps sad and slow. Ere the east was in a glow, Descended the fair immortal. Tradition still preserves many of the interesting tales of fairies, elves, and dwarfs or trolls. The Scandinavian and Orcadian peasantry have handed down from one generation to another the many tales which they themselves had learned at their mother's knee, and the diligent seeker after such romances will find himself amply rewarded by the rich collection of folklore he is sure to find. The elves were distinguished as the white and the black. Rambles in the Far North. 195 or good elves, who dwelt in the air and in forests, and evil elves, who had their habitations underground, and were supposed to be the cause of all the sickness and misfortune that overtook any locality. Disease caused by such evil elves could only be cured by a charmer, or a Kloka mdriy who were once numerous enough in the northern isles. A portion of these elves were known as Hill-people or Hogfolk^ who resided in grassy knowes and within caves by the sea shore. They were considered to be a very melancholy race, much given to weeping and lamentation. This idea probably originated from the moaning sound made by the wind and waves in the geos and gloicps where they were supposed to dwell, though Afzelius thinks it originated at the time of the introduction of Christianity into the north ; being the lamentation of the first converts, who were thus expressing their sympathy with their forefathers, whose spirits were supposed to be doomed to wander about the lower regions, or sigh within these mounds until the great judg- ment day. Among the Norwegians these elves are known as Huldrafolk^ and their music as Huldraslaat. It is said these creatures were very fond of cleanliness and tidy houses. A story is told of a smart servant girl of very cleanly habits, who always carried away any dirt or foul water to a considerable distance from the house where she resided. The elves took a kindly interest in her 196 Rambles in the Far North. welfare, and at one time invited her to a wedding. The girl admired the very orderly arrangement of everything round her, and received a present of a number of chips of wood, which she laughingly put into her pocket. On the arrival of the happy pair an incident occurred which changed the whole scene. A straw lay in the path of the bride and bridegroom. The latter got safely over the ob- struction, but his consort was not so fortunate; for the poor bride was tripped up and fell upon her face. This was too much for the servant girl, who could not contain her suppressed laughter any longer, and when she gave vent to her merriment in a loud laugh the whole company vanished from her sight. On her return home she was per- fectly amazed to discover the chips of wood had become chips of gold.* The elves were great dancers, and delighted to '' trip the light fantastic toe " upon the dewy grass early in the morn- ing, as the eastern sky began to redden with the glow of returning day. Country people, when they saw the dewy grass in the woods and meadows in stripes, declared that an elf-dance had been performed there. Children born on Sunday were reputed to have the power of seeing elves and all similar beings. They were in the habit of sitting on * See Afzelius's Svenska Folk- Visor, Vol. III. p. 159. Rambles in the Far North. 197 little stones of a circular form, called elf-mills or elf-quarnor, from which was often heard the sound of their voices, low and sweet. The following ballad illustrates th2 melancholy character of these creatures : — Sir Olof in the Elve-dance. Sir Olof he rode out at early day, And so came unto an Elve-dance gay. The dance it goes well, So well in the grove. The Elve-father reached out his white hand free, "Come, come, Sir Olof, tread the dance with me." The dance it goes well, So well in the grove. *' O nought I will, and nought I may. To-morrow will be my wedding-day." The dance it goes well, So well in the grove. And the Elve-mother reached out her white hand free, "Come, come. Sir Olof, tread the dance with me." The dance it goes well. So well in the grove. " O nought I will, and nought I may. To-morrow wilbbe my wedding-day." The dance it goes well, So well in the grove. And the Elve-sister reached out her white hand free, " Come, come, Sir Olof, tread the dance with me." The dance it goes well, So well in the grove. 198 Rambles in the Far North. *' O nought I will, and nought I may, To-morrow will be my wedding-day." The dance it goes well, So well in the grove. And the bride she spake with her bride-maids so, *' What may it mean that the bells thus go ? " The dance it goes well, So well in the grove. " 'Tis the custom of this our isle," they replied ; " Each young swain bringeth home his bride." The dance it goes well. So well in the grove. " And the truth from you to conceal I fear, Sir Olf is dead, and lies on his bier." The dance it goes well, So well in the grove. And on the morrow, ere light was the day, In Sir Olf's house three corpses lay. The dance it goes well, So well in the grove. It was Sir Olf, his young bride. And eke his mother, of sorrow she died. The dance it goes well, So well in the grove.* In Iceland the elves or dwarfs are known by the name of Alfa and Alfa-folk. Various theories are mooted by different authors to account for their origin. Some maintain that they were created by God like spirits, without the intervention of parents, while others say * Svenska Folk-Visor, III. 158. See Keightley's Fairy Mythology, p. 82. Rambles in the Far North. 199 they sprung from Adam before the creation of Eve. This latter was probably a Theory of the Monks, and resembles the account given by the Rabbins of the origin of the Mazikeen. The Talmud asserts that these beings were the offspring of Adam, who after he had eaten the forbidden fruit, was excommunicated for one hundred and thirty years, in which time "he begat spirits, demons, and spectres of the night." But this, like much of the Talmud, is sheer nonsense.* The Icelandic elves were reputed to possess a form of government, of which many old wives seemed to have a good idea. " The new born infants of Christians," says the learned Finnus Johannaeus (in his " Ecclesiastical History of Iceland" 11. p. 368)," are, before baptism, be- lieved to be exposed to great peril of being stolen by them, and their own, which they foresee likely to be feeble in mind, in body, in beauty, or other gifts, being substituted for them. These supposititous children of the semigods are called Umskiptingar : whence nurses and mid wives were * In Ireland we find that " the general idea of the origin of fairies is, that they are spirits or angels, who, when Satan rebelled against the Almighty, took neither the one side nor the other, but ' bided their time ' to see which side was likely to prove victorious before joining it. It is believed that for their apathy and cowardice, they were cast down to the earth, to wander about till the day of judgment, and by their good or evil deeds to merit their reward, or their punish- ment accordingly." — Margaret Tyner in the Antiquarian Magazine for March, 1884, p. 144. 200 Ra^nUes in the Far North. strictly enjoined to watch constantly, and to hold the infant firmly in their arms, till it had the benefit of baptism, lest they should furnish an opportunity for such a change. Hence it comes, that the vulgar use to call fools, deformed people, and those who act rudely and uncivilly, Umskiptinga eins og hann sie ko minnaf Alfum, i.e., changelings, and come of the Alfs." They dwelt in the rocks, hills and seas ; and could become visible or invisible just as they pleased. If they desired to change their abode they always did so on new- year's night. Every new-year's eve the people of Iceland never shut the outer doors of their houses, but, leaving a hght burning, set out a table with viands to refresh their invisible visitors, if perchance they would be pleased to take up their abode with them."^ Amongst Shetlanders the Trows are known as th.Qguidfolk or guid neighbours, and are believed to dwell in the little hillocks round their shores. A woman who died many ■* " In the remote glens and mountains of Kerry, and along the wild romantic shores of the west, the belief of the peasantry in fairies and spirits is most intensely strong, and woven, as it were, into the threads of their every-day life. The fairy is still to the people a real, tangible person, to be feared, avoided, and propitiated. Living as I did for many years in county Sligo, I beheld nightly three potatoes and a cup of milk duly laid upon the dresser of the kitchen, in case of the nocturnal visitor or visitors, as the case might be, chancing to be hungry ; the hearth also was, and still is, carefully brushed, for fairies dislike dirt, and revenge such an insult as an unswept hearth, by chastising severely the lazy servants, or by terrifying them with some frightful dream or apparition." — Ibid., p. 140. ^Ra77ihles in the Far North. 201 years ago in the island of Yell, at the advanced age of more than a hundred, said that on one occasion she met a nupiber of fairy children playing with a little dog, just like other boys and girls, on the top of a hill. On another occasion this old women happened to look out of bed, when she saw a little fairy boy with a white night cap on sitting beside the fire. She inquired who he was. " I am Trippa's son," was the reply. When the old woman heard this she immediately sained^ i.e. blessed herself, and at that moment Trippa's son vanished. The Trows seem to have been given to stealing. Instances are related of Trow women having been found milking cows, and when discovered to take to flight so precipitately as to leave behind them a curiously formed copper can. Dr. Hibbert relates * in 1822 a story of a Shetlander, alive at the time, who had been carried to the hills by the Trows. He was surprised to see there one of his own cows, which was brought to supply materials for a banquet. When he managed to return home he was more astonished to find that at the very time he had seen his cow brought into the hill by the Trows others had seen her fall over a rock into the sea. One or two centuries ago Orcadian folk-lore teemed with * Description of the Shetland Isles, by Dr. Hibbert, 1822. N 202 Rambles in the Far North. incidents relating to the great family of fairydom ; and it was a favourite pastime among the rising youths to dress themselves in the characters of many of the most renowned Tritons, Mermaids, and Trows, whose memory was still green in the ancient traditions and popular beliefs of the hardy dwellers in these northern seas. The old Zetlandic name for Tritons was Shoupeltins. Sir Walter Scott describes some of the scenes enacted in commemoration of these traditional inhabitants of the briny deep, and those who desire to know more about them may consult that writer's works, where they will find them *' Fathoms deep beneath the wave, Stringing beads of glistening pearl, Singing the achievements brave Of many an old Norwegian Earl." In those days the fishermen sometimes rehearsed the old Norwegian Sagas, while the Norse tongue itself was not quite forgotten. " In the quiet moonlight bay, where the waves came rippling to the shore, upon a bed of smooth sand inter- mingled with shells, the mermaid was still seen to glide along the waters by moonlight, and, mingling her voice with the sighing breeze, was often heard to sing of subterranean wonders, or to chant prophecies of future events." Sea- serpents, krakens and other equally marvellous creatures were believed to be constant inhabitants of the Rambles in the Far North. 205 " ever-sounding and mysterious sea," that ebbed and flowed continually around their shores. As they shot their nets and lines in the grey dawn many a curious fogbank was taken for some sea-monster, and would afford food for speculation when they reached their friends on shore. There beside the winter fire the fisherman's imagination would revel in the wondrous forms he fancied himself to have seen, and the young folk around him would listen with hushed breath as the tale drew to some climax. But these are now gone as the fogbanks before the sun. At the close of the seventeenth century we hear much of the fairy dwellers of Orcadian knowes and streams. The Rev. John Brand* tells us that " evil spirits also called fairies are frequently seen in several of the isles, dancing and making merry, and sometimes seen in armour." Only- fifty years before this gentleman visited Orkney, every family had a Broimy or evil spirit. To this brownie it was customary to give a sacrifice for his service. When they went to chum, the spirit had first to be propitiated, and this was generally done by the person taking part of the contents of the churn and sprinkhng it all over the house. So also when they were to brew, some of the wort was * A Brief Description of Orkney^ Zetland, Pightland Firth, and Caithness, by Rev. John Brand, 17CX), p. 96. 204 Rambles in the Far North. taken for a sacrifice to the brownie and poured into a hol- low stone, called the Brownie's stone. By doing this they were sure of a good churning and a good brewing; but if these precautions were neglected they would suffer in consequence. The butter would not make and the ale would not brew. Mr. Brand tells us of an old man who, in his youth, was in the habit of brewing without giving a sacrifice to the brownie. He always read his bible instead before commencing proceedings, and though the first two brewings were for no use, the third was very good. After the spirit was once terrified by the reading of the Bible there was no more trouble with the brewing. In reference to the gradual disappearance of these spirits, fairies, etc., the same gentleman makes the following quaint remarks : — "The brownies, fairies, and other evil spirits that haunted and were familiar in our houses, were dismissed, and fled at the breaking up our Reformation (if we may except but a few places not yet well reformed from Popish Dregs) as the Heathen Oracles at the coming of our Lord, and the going forth of His disciples ; so that our first noble Refor- mers might have returned and said to their Master, as the seventy once did : ' Lord^ even the devils are subject to us through Thy name.' And this restraint put upon the Devil was far later in these northern places than with us, to whom the light of a preached Gospel did more early shine. Rambles i?i the Far North. 205 Yet now also do these northern isles enjoy the fruits of this restraint." Here is an old Norse ballad relating to the Trows of the Far North. The remarks between some of the stanzas are by Mr. Edmondston, son of the late Dr. Edmondston, of Unst, Shetland, from whom the words are derived : — ' Der lived a king inta da aste, Scowan urla grun ; Der lived a lady in da wast, Whar giorten han grun oarlac. * Dis king he has a huntin' gaen, Scowan urla grun ; He's left his lady Isabel alane, Whar giorten han grun oarlac. * Oh ! I wis ye'd never gaen away, Scowan urla grun ; For at your hame is dol an' wae, Whar giorten han grun oarlac. * For da King o' Fairie we his daert, Scowan urla grun ; Has pierced your lady to da hert, Whar giorten han grun oarlac." Some stanzas are forgotten, but the substance of them is that the lady is carried off by the fairies, and the disconsolate king sets out in search of her. One day, in his wandering quest, he sees a company passing along a hillside, and he recognises amongst them his lost lady. They proceed to 2o6 Rambles in the Far North. what seemed a great " ha'-house," or castle, on the hillside, the king following : — " And aifter dem da king has gaen, Scowan urla grun ; But whan he cam it was a grey stane, Whar giorten han grun oarlac. " Dan he took out his pipes to play, Scowan urla grun ; Bit sair his hert we dol an' wae, Whar giorten han grun oarlac. At first he played da notes o' noy, Scowan urla grun ; An' dan he played da notes o' joy, Whar giorten han grun oarlac. And dan he played do god gabber reel, Scowan urla grun ; Dat meicht ha' made a sick hert hale, W^har goirten han grun orlac. Some stanzas here are also forgotten, their purport being that a messenger, from behind the 'grey stane' now appears, and,jin the name of the King of the Fairies, invites the king thus : — " Noo come ye in into wir ha', Scowan urla grun ; And come ye in amang wis a', Whar giorten han grun oarlac. Now he's gaen in inta der ha', Scowan urla grun ; An' he's gaen in among dem a', Whar giorten han grun oarlac. Rambles in the Far North, 207 Dan he took out his pipes ta play, Scowan urla grun ; But sair his hert we dol an' wae, Whar giorten han grun oarlac. An' first he played da notes o' noy, Scowan urla grun : ^ An' dan he played da' notes o' joy, Whar giorten han grun oarlac. A' dan he played da god gabber reel, Scowan urla grun ; Dat micht ha' made a sic hert hale, Whar giorten han grun oarlac. Noo tell ta us what ye will hae, Scowan urla grun ; What sail we gie you for your play, Whar giorten han grun oarlac. What I will hae I will you tell, Scowan urla grun ; An' dat's me Lady Isabel, Whar giorten han grun oarlac. Yees talc' your lady and yees gaeng hame, Scowan urla grun ; An' yees be king ower a' your ain, Whar giorten han grun oarlac. He's taen his lady an' he's gaen hame, Scowan urla grun ; And noo he's king ower a' his ain, Whar giorten han grun oarlac. " Probably there have been some stanzas between the first and second verses, as above. "Surely," says Mr. Edmondston, " there would be something to tell of the king's wooing and 2o8 Rambles in the Far North. bringing the lady from the 'wast' to his eastern home, but I am quite sure there was never any such verses in the ballad as sung by old Andrew Coutts, and I always used to wonder at it and speculate in my boyish mind on the connecting links which seemed wanting." It is not very easy to deter- mine the precise meaning of the second and fourth line of each stanza. " Scowan iirla griin " may signify some of the King's titles ; " iirla " being a corruption for " Jarl " (Earl). "Whargiorten han griin oarlac" may mean "Where the green grass grows." There are many old ballads of a siir.i- lar nature still floating about in the popular mind, but many of the best and sweetest of them are fast being forgotten. Orcadians and Shetlanders sing, or rather croon, such plain- tive ballads in a sweet and sympathetic manner, that re- minds one often of the melancholy murmur and weird melody of their own north seas. In many respects the Orcadian trows or drows resembled the Highland daoine sith in the malevolence of their disposi- tion. Like their cousins, the gnomes of Germany, they are artificers in brass, iron, and the precious metals, and were supposed to carry on their work within the many green mounds that are to be seen, from which there would some- times be heard the knocking of their hammers. A Norse warrior who possessed a sword made in such an armoury was considered invincible. " I tell thee now," says Rambles in the Far North. 209 Kol in the Gisli saga, " that this sword will bite whatever its blow falls on, be it iron or aught else ; nor can its edge be deadened by spells, for it was forged by the dwarves, and its name is ' Graysteel.' " The land, however, was not the only abode of the creatures of dark- ness ; ,the sea had its share as well. There were "great rolling creatures " called sea-trows^ that tumbled about in the water, alarming the credulous fishermen. Whenever such creatures appeared they were immediately beaten off with oars and long staves. It was an unlucky moment when a fisherman cast his eyes on a sea-trow ; panic and fear seized him, and his boat was instantly steered for the shore. These sea- trows would appear to have been the innocent porpoises, or pellacks^ as they are called here. They are seen every summer tumbling about in the sounds and bays, and make a very pretty sight when the sunlight is sparkHng on the waves. There was another race of sea fairies, called Finnmen, of whom Mr. Wallace,* Minister of Kirkwall, wrote as follows in the latter part of the seventeenth century : — " Sometimes about this country are seen these men which are called Finnmen. In the year 1681 one was seen sometimes sailing, sometimes mooring up and down in his little boat at the * Description of the Islands of Orhzey, 1 700. 210 Rambles m the Far North. south end of the Island of Eday. Most of the people of the isle flocked to see him, and when they adventured to put out a boat with men to see if they could apprehend him, he presently flew away most swiftly. And in the year 1684 another was seen from Westra, and for a while after they got few or no fishes, for they have this remark here, that these Finnmen drive away the fishes from the place to which they come. These Finnmen seem to be some of the people which dwell about the F?'etum Davis, a full account of whom may be seen in the natural and moral history of the Antilles, chap. 18. One of their boats sent from Orkney to Edin- burgh is to be seen in the Physician's Hall, with the oar and dart he makes use of for kifling fish." It is, indeed, a curious circumstance, that the venturesome Esquimaux, as they approached the shores of Orkney while upon a fishing excursion, were always taken for a kind of fairy. These credulous times are long, long gone by, and we can see no more the flitting sea-trow or the peculiar Finn- man. Civilization has crept in upon all fairy strongholds and disenchanted the many fair scenes in which they were wont to hold their courts. As one sails past the rocky ^eos and gaping gtouJ>s his ears are no more charmed with the siren songs of the mermaid as she sings the wild waves to sleep, nor does his gaze light upon any of the wonderful monsters that were formerly believed to people the northern sea. The light Rambles in the Far North. 211 ofsciencehas shone upon every green mound and dispossessed it of its fairy inhabitants, while the cold business-like atmos- phere of our nineteenth century has deprived these shores of everything but what makes for wealth. It is only here and there that we can hear the tales of former days rehearsed by some old fisherman, who still loves to relate the wonders of a generation long forgotton. We now pass to another phase of by-gone superstition. Two centuries ago these islands were full of various charms, used on different occasions and for a variety of purposes. When anyone was troubled with excessive bleeding word was immediately sent to a person called a charmer, who repeated a certain formula with the result that the bleeding ceased. This mode of stopping the flow of blood was not only used for persons but also for oxen and sheep. People troubled with toothache could be cured in a similar way. A story is told of the use of this charm upon a person who lived in the island of Eday. Though the charmer lived at a good distance from the patient, yet the cure took effect at the very time the magic words were uttered. The afflicted party was partaking of supper at the time when a living worm fell suddenly out of his mouth ! This story is said by the narrator to be true, and the man from whose mouth the worm fell was living then (1699). It was formerly a very common practice to sprinkle water, which was called Fore- 212 Rambles in the Far North. spoken water, over any animals that chanced to be sick, and if they were desirous of a prosperous fishing the same was done to their boats. The following is a charm used for the toothache : — ** A finn came ow'r fra Noraway, Fir to pit toth-ache away — Oot o' da flesh an' oot o' da bane ; Oot o' da sinew an' oot o' da skane ; Oot o' da skane an' into da stane ; An' dere may du remain ! An' dere may du remain ! An' dere may du remain ! " When a person received a sprain the Wrestin Thread was cast. Nine knots were tied upon a thread of black worsted, which was wound round the injured limb, the patient muttering meanwhile : — ** The Lord rade And the foal slade ; He lighted, And he righted. Set joint to joint, Bone to bone, And sinew to sinew, Heal in the Holy Ghost's name ! "* * See also Chambers's Fireside Stories. The wrestin thread is, we believe, still employed in Orkney. From Grimm's Teutonic Mythology, we learn that the old mythology gradually blended with Christianity. The Merseburg formula for healing a lamed horse in the heathen times survives at the present day in Norway ; "Jesus " being Rambles in the Far North. 213 Ringworm was charmed away by the following charm, which was said while holding some ashes between the finger and thumb, and slowly dropping them into the fire : — " Ringworm, ringworm red, Never mayest thou either spread or speed, But aye grow less and less, And die away among the ase." On Hallow e'en a cross of tar was made upon their boats to bring luck. In fact there were charms for almost every ailment to which the human flesh is heir, and in each and all implicit confidence was placed. It was no wonder that Mr. Brand, when referring to these matters, remarked that such customs were " the sour dregs of Pagan and Popish superstition." Whoever visits the island of Papa-Westray will find a spot hallowed by the credulity of generations. Within St. Tred- wel's Loch there once stood, upon a low rock, an ancient chapel, known as St. Tredwel's Chapel, and famous for imparting medicinal properties to the waters of the loch. In olden times the diseased and infirm people of the North Isles were wont to flock to this place and get themselves the healer instead of the heathen god. The sprained foot of Balder's horse was healed by Wodan, "ben zi bena (bone to bone) lid zi giliden" (sinew to sinew). In Norway Jesus placed •* been i been, kjod i kjod " (bone to bone, and sinew to sinew). 214 Rambles in the Far North. cured by washing in its waters. Many of them walked round the shores two or three times before entering the loch itself to perfect by so doing the expected cure. When a person was engaged in 'this perambulation nothing would induce him to utter a word ; for if he spoke the waters of this holy loch would lave his diseased body in vain. After the necessary ablutions were performed they never departed without leaving behind them some piece of cloth or bread as a gift to the presiding genius of the place. In the be- ginning of the eighteenth century popular belief in this water was as strong as ever. In the island of Flotta, upon a jutting point called the Rhone, there is a small mineral well, to which medicinal properties are attributed. A bottle of water from this well, which is called " Wunster Well " from an old Episcopal clergyman who resided near by when the Episcopal Church was recognised in Scotland, was considered sufficient to cure certain diseases. The bearer of the bottle had not to speak, however, to any per- son on his way back, else the virtue would be gone. These old chapels, and St. Tredwel's amongst the num- ber, were at one time much frequented by people desirous of offering private prayer. More faith was put in prayer when offered within the walls of a chapel than when it was done in the privacy of the dwelling. Many a one when sick, or in some sudden danger at sea, would make a vow Rambles in the Far North. 215 to pray in one of these chapels should he ever get well or safe to land again. It was customary to make a small pile of stones — one for every vow — beside the chapel to which the person went ; and no one must go thither empty handed, but taking either bread or a piece of money, which was left as an offering. Sed tempora mutantur! The disciple of ^sculapius has come off victorious and all the hallowed charms and relics of a hundred years ago are now forgotten if not unknown. We can hardly close this sketch without referring to another ancient custom once very common in these isles — the custom of fortune-telling or of spaeing fortunes. When the Norse galley cleaved the rippling waters of Scapa Flow this custom was well known and much resorted to. Aged crones, called soothsaying women, were in the habit of hold- ing their courts at every local festival, which was attended by all those who were desirous of knowing their future. The scene will be better understood from the following ex- tract from the Saga of E rick Randa* : — "There lived in the same territory (Greenland) a woman named Thorbiorga, who was a prophetess, and called the little Vola, (or fatal sister), the only one of nine sisters who survived. Thorbiorga during the winter used to frequent the festivities of the season, invited by those who were desirous of learning their own fortune, and the * See Bartholine's De Causis Conteviptae a Danis adhuc gentilibus Mortis^ bk. III., ch. 4. 2i6 Rambles in the Far North. future events which impended. Torquil being a man of consequence in the country, it fell to his lot to inquire how long the dearth was to €ndure with which the country was then afflicted ; he therefore invited the prophetess to his house, having made liberal preparation, as was the custom, for receiving a guest of such consequence. The seat of the soothsayer was placed in an eminent situation, and covered with pillows filled with the softest eiderdown. In the evening she arrived, together with a person who had been sent to meet her, and shew her the way to Torquil's habitation. She was attired as follows : she had a sky-blue tunick, having the front ornamented with gems from the top to the bottom, and wore around her throat a necklace of glass beads. Her head-gear was of black lamb-skin, the lining being the fur of a white wild-cat. She leant on a staff, having a ball at the top. The staff was ornamented with brass, and the ball or globe with gems or pebbles. She wore a Hunlound (or Hungarian) girdle, attached to which was a large pouch, in which she kept her magical implements. Her shoes were of seal-skin, dressed with the hair outside, and secured by long and thick straps, fastened by brazen clasps. She wore gloves of the wild-cat's skin, with the fur inmost. As this venerable person entered the hall, all saluted her with due respect ; but she only returned the compliments of such as were agreeable to her. Torquil conducted her with reverence to the seat prepared for her, and requested that she would purify the apartment and company assembled by casting her eyes over them. She was by no means sparing of her words. The table being at length covered, such viands were placed before Thorbiorga as suited her character as a soothsayer. These were a preparation of goat's milk, and a mess composed of the hearts of various animals ; the prophetess made use of a brazen spoon and a pointless knife, the handle of which was composed of a whale's tooth, and ornamented with two rings of brass. The table being removed, Torquil addressed Thor- biorga, requesting her opinion of his house and guests, at the same time intimating the subjects on which he and the company were desirous to consult her. "Thorbiorga replied, it was impossible for her to answer their en- quiries until she had slept a night under his roof. The next morning, therefore, the magical apparatus necessary for her purpose was pre- pared, and she then enquired, as a necessary part of the ceremony, whether there was any female present who could sing a magical song called * Vardlokur.'' When no songstress such as she desired could be found, Gudrida, the daughter of Torquil replied, ' I am no sorceress or Rambles in the Far North. 217 soothsayer ; but my nurse, Haldisa, taught me, when in Iceland, a song called ' Vardlokur.' — ' Then thou knowest more than I was aware of,' said Torquil. *But as I am a Christiao,' continued Gudrida, ' I consider these rites as matters which it is unlawful to promote, and the song itself as unlawful.' — 'Nevertheless,' answered the soothsayer, * thou mayst help us in this matter without any harm to thy religion, since the task must remain with Torquil to provide everything neces- sary for the present purpose.' Torquil also earnestly entreated Gudrida, till she consented to grant his request. The females then surrounded Thorbiorga, who took her place on a sort of elevated stage ; Gudrida then sung the magic song, with a vcice so sweet and tuneful, as to ^xcel anything that had been heard by any present. The soothsayer, delighted with the melody, returned thanks to the singer, and then said, 'Much I have now learned of dearth and disease approaching the country, and many things are now clear to me which before were hid- den as well from me as others. Our present dearth of substance shall not long endure for the present, and plenty will in the spring succeed to scarcity. The contagious disease also, with which the country has been for some time afflicted, will in a short time take its departure. To thee, Gudrida, I can, in recompense for thy assistance on this occasion, announce a fortune of higher import than any one could have conjec- tured. You shall be married to a man of name here in Greenland ; but you shall not long enjoy that union, for your fate recalls you to Iceland, where you shall become the mother of a numerous and honourable family, which shall be enlightened by a luminous ray of good fortune. * So, my daughter, wishing thee health, I bid thee farewell. ' The prophetess, having afterwards given answers to all queries which were put to her, either by Torquil or his guests, departed to show her skill at another festival, to which she had been invited for that purpose. But all which she presaged, either concerning the public or individuals, came truly to pass." A scene like the above was of common occurrence in the misty past of Orcadian life and manners; but it is now gone for ever. The voluspa, or sibyl, who presided over such scenes, was generally chosen from her knowledge of the Norse sagas and rhymes, which were greatly used on these 2i8 Rambles in the Far North, occasions. The poems of the Scalds are full of allusions to persons seeking to know their destinies from the mouth of some sorceress or prophetess, who was always ready to utter her Delphic sayings. Time, however, has long ago uttered and performed his relentless decree, and is even now repeating the words into our ears, "All your ancient customs, And long descended usages, I'll change." Rambles in the Far North. 219 CHAPTER XVIII. ** More strange than true. I never may believe These antique fables, nor these fairy toys." — Midsu7nmer NigMs Dream. TN the previous sketch we have taken a general view of Orcadian superstitions, especially of those relating to fairies or trows. In this we propose to give a few tales, illus- trative of what has gone before. They are but a few samples of a large number of similar stories that are floating about in the popular mind. It is still a common thing for a parent to say to his children when they misbehave, "Trow tak' thee." This has arisen from the belief that the trows were formerly in the habit of taking away children and substituting one of their own kind instead. There is a story told of a man who resided at Yesnaby bearing upon this subject. It appears • that he had twins in his family, one of whom fell sick, and became very seriously ill. An old woman, reputed for her wisdom, was passing by one day and came into the house to see the sick child. She looked for some time very intently at the sick boy as he lay in bed, and then, turning to the father, informed him that this was not his child at all. By 2 20 Rambles in the Far North. means of the " second sight," which she possessed, she was enabled to discern that much. She told the anxious parent that the child was a fairy changeling, or a croupin, as it is called. In order to satisfy the parents that such was really the case the old women gave them certain directions, which they were to carry faithfully out. At a certain hour the following night, the croupin would be in great distress, but they were not to give him anything he asked for, and they must keep something burning all night in the fire. Unless they would do this the spell would be broken. The man did as directed. At a certain hour a series of the most terrible squeals ever heard issued from the bed, and the child was heard to ask for a drink of water. His cries, how- ever, were unheeded. But being continued, the father's courage failed him, and, unable to resist the child's demand, he gave him a drink. By so doing he broke the spell, and his supposed son still lay sick. He appealed again to the old woman. When she arrived upon the scene, she inquired if the croupin had not asked for something during the night. " Yes," replied the father, "he asked for a drink of water, and I could not refuse him." " And you gave it him, hence the spell was broken." The same directions w^re given him for the next night, and the father promised to carry them out. Again the same demand for water was made, accompanied with the most agonizing shrieks, and although the man re- Rambles in the Far North. 221 sisted for some time, he finally gave in, and supplied his son with the desired refi*eshment. On the third trial he resisted more strenuously, and gave no heed to the repeated appeals, so firm was his belief in the old woman. After the same shrieking sounds had issued from the bed, and when no heed was paid to them, the croupin rose out of the bed, rolled on to the floor, and with a piercing cry disappeared up the chimney in a blue-low or flame. This same "blue-low" is referred to by Ossian, and such a belief seems to have been quite common among the Celts and Scandinavians alike. A story is told of a fairy changeling in Unst, Shetland. One day while the guidman of a certain house was away at the haaf-fishing, the old woman left in charge took advan- tage of the mother and child, whom she was attending, being asleep, and stepped across to a neighbour's house to have a little gossip over " the cup that cheers but not ine- briates." The topics discussed appear to have been of a very interesting nature, for the gloamin' — or hiimeen* as it is called in Shetland — had stolen across the sea ere the woman returned to her charge. As she approached the door of the cottage a little man clad in grey was seen crossing the kail-yard behind the house. Entering the house with some * Hiim— dusk ; en is the plural termination. 222 Rambles in the Far North. misgivings she found a dead Grouping or changeling and a mad wraithe in place of the mother and child. The pres- ence of the grey man was now accounted for, and, foolish woman ! she forgot to cross two straws as she passed the threshold ; for by doing so all would have been well. She immediately flew out of the house, exclaiming at the top of her voice, " Da Trow ! da Trow ! " and alarming all the neighbours. When these had assembled in the afflicted house they could do nothing to change the state of matters. For another day the insane mother raved about her dead child, which she would permit no one to remove, and at last passed quietly away. The poor half-demented husband was sorely grieved upon his return, and, though informed by a few " wise-acres " that they were " none of his," sadly gave them a decent Christian burial. The old nurse, who had proved so unfaithful to her charge, was favoured with a kind of " lynch law " for permitting the death of the infant, which had "crazed da poor midder an' hastened her end." One day two ladies were travelling across Pomona, and being wearied with their journey they entered a wayside cottage and asked for some refreshment. The mistress of the cottage proceeded at once to infuse a cup of tea for the weary travellers. While seated at table, partaking of the refreshing cup, they were suddenly startled by hearing several strange and unearthly grunts proceeding from the box bed Rambles in the Far North. 223 that stood in the room. Their teiVor was increased when a repulsive-looking specimen of humanity put out his head and gazed at them with his blinKIng eyes. " O don't be frightened," said the dame, "heT do thee no harm." Ad- dressing the monster she orderec- him to be quiet else she would immediately apply the whiDto him. This threat had the desired effect ; for the curious creature retreated into the bed and remained perfectly still. While the ladies finished their repast the poor woman related, with weeping eyes, the story of her sorrow. One harvest morning she had left the cottage to gather some cabbage leaves from the garden, with which she was to prepare some broth for the busy harvesters. Before going out into the garden she placed her child, a fine chubby boy, in the cradle, where he would be safe until her return ; but what was her astonishment on re-entering to find instead of the child a hideous object. She required no second look to convince her of the differ- ence ; there lay the croupin^ and her own sweet child was nowhere to be found. During the mother's absence the trows had made a descent upon the humble dwelling and substituted the little monster for her son. The reader need not wonder now why the expression, "Trow, tak' thee," is sometimes heard in these islands still. The power of fairies, in the way of stealing children, may not 224 Rambles 'i7t the Far North. now be recognised, bi^' the old belief has left its traces behind.* i While the Rev. Mr.k Yule was incumbent of Kirkwall Cathedral, he was in th^ habit of rebuking any person who did not behave well during service. On one occasion he publickly rebuked a girj for smiling during the sermon. Being afterwards interrogated by the minister as to her pe- culiar behaviour the girl replied that if he had seen what she had he would have laughed too. " What did you see, then?" asked Mr. Yule. " I saw auld Cluttie up in the rafters, sitting across a beam, writing down the names of everybody that was asleep during the sermon. His paper was very small and being soon filled up he tore a piece from the tail of his shirt ; but even that proved too small. So he endeavoured to stretch it out a little more by pulling it with his hands and teeth \ but his strength was too much for the rag so that it tore and his head came dunt against the rafters above, and in his anxiety he let the whole drop down. That's the cause of my laughter." "Wonderful vision! wonderful vision ! " said the divine. In one of the mountainous regions of Scandinavia, not * In the west of Ireland it is customary, when the mother has to be absent from the house a little, to place the tongs across the cradle to prevent the forcible abduction of the sleeping child. It is supposed that fairies dislike tongs on account of their being of iron, just as they have a dread of horse shoes. Rambles in the Far North. 225 far from the sound of the wild North Sea, a brave hunter named Carl resided with his sister Bertha. Their home was a beautiful rustic cottage, built with Norwegian pine, and situated at the top of a picturesque valley. A moun- tain stream gurgled past the door as it hastened on its way to the deep blue sea that was visible through a rocky ravine in the mountain side. The tall pine trees nodded upon the slopes, while beautiful flowers blossomed upon the streamlet's banks. No brother and sister lived more happily than did Carl and Bertha. Through winter cold and summer heat they passed the flying hours either roaming through the woods and mountains or in some pleasant amusement within doors. Carl set out now and then on his hunting excursions, on which occasions he was generally very successful. Their cottage home was ornamented with trophies of the chase, and the floors were covered with warm furs. One day as the hunter was making his way across a grassy valley he was suddenly startled by an appari- tion of female beauty. Never had he beheld a maiden so fair as this, and, as was natural in the circumstances, he immediately fell in love with the beautiful maid. How she had come there he could not ascertain, but he asked the fair maiden to accompany him home to his sister. Together they arrived at the mountain cot, and Bertha and the strange maiden soon became the best of friends. Carl fell deeper 226 Rambles in the Far North. and deeper in love with the child of the mountains and presented her with a most lovely and precious ring in token of his passion. One morning the lately-found beauty, whose name was Leida, disapppeared, and was nowhere to be found. Long and eagerly did Carl search forest shade and mountain solitude, but in vain. The object of his love was gone, seemingly for ever. When he was returning home one evening after a wearied search he observed a pretty white wild-cat sitting upon a branch of a tree. Desiring to be- come possessed of so fine a fur, he hfted his cross-bow to his shoulder and fired. The cat dropped down dead upon the ground, and he hastened forward to secure his prize. Upon the left fore paw glittered the very ring he had presented to his lady-love Leida. No one can picture the grief of the ardent hunter for his murdered love. He saw now that, through the influence of some malignant fairy, his betrothed had been transformed into a white cat, and he was made the means of her death. Before that same moon had waxed and waned Carl died of a broken heart, and was buried beside the mountain stream. The following pretty legend is told by Mrs. Saxby in the Leisure Hour for March, 1880 : — " There was a girl, whose mother had been taken by the Trows at the girl's birth, who grew up to be a lovely creature, with golden hair. Such hair had never been seen in Unst : so long, soft, shining. Rambles in the Far North. 227 It fell in golden waves about her, and such an unusual mode of wearing it created much wonder. No maiden — not even a child — ever permitted her hair to fall as it pleased except this girl, and folks did say that whenever she tried to bind it to her head the bright locks refused to obey her fingers, and slowly untwined themselves until they became natural ringlets again. The girl was a sweet singer — and singing is a fairy-gift — and she would wander about, lilting merrily to herself, while neighbours wondered and young men lost their hearts. It was believed that the girl was under the special care of Trows, for everything seemed to be smooth before her, and her golden hair was called "*the blessing o' them that loves her.' But it happened that a witch began to covet the maiden's lovely locks, and one day, when the girl lay down among some hay and fell asleep, the witch cut off all her beautiful hair. The poor young thing returned to her home shorn of her glory, and after that she pined away. All the song had died from her lips, all the smile had gone from her young face. But when she lay dead, in her teens, folk said that the golden hair began to grow again, and had grown to its former length and beauty ere the coffin-lid was closed upon her. The witch did not triumph, for the Trows, who had loved and watched over the motherless girl, took possession of the malignant old hag and punished her as she deserved. She 228 Rambles hi the Far North. was compelled to wander about their haunts, and to live in the most strange manner. She was haunted day and night by evil creatures. Whenever she tried to sleep the Trows would come and make such queer noises that she could not rest. She continued in that state till extreme old age, when she was spirited away altogether." Another legend of " the white sea-bird" is related by the same lady : — " A boat started one summer morning from the Broch of Colviedell, intending to remain at the haaf- fishing for two days. But the men had scarcely launched their boat, had scarcely shipped their mast, when a white gull came hovering overhead, and as soon as the boat was fairly under way alighted on the rigging. Folding its wings, it fixed its dark eyes upon the boat with an almost human intelligence in its expression, and as the boat sailed on the bird sat motionless overhead. Night came down, but still the bird remained watching the men at their work. About midnight a sudden squall came on, which grew into a storm that lasted two nights and a day. The boat dared not attempt reaching the shore for the tideways across her path. The only safety was in remaining out at sea, and during all that time the little boat lay tossing among the billows, with the white bird sitting upon the mast. When the storm abated the boat sought her haven, and not until the boat stranded on the beach did the bird take wing. As soon as they Rambles in the Far North. 229 landed, one of the men said, ' Give the bird the best cut of our ling, for she never left us in our trouble, and likely she has been our preservation, for yesterday, when we were in the heart of the storm, I saw an old woman sitting on the water a little way from the boat, and she appeared not good. But of course she had no power to come nearer us while the bird stayed by us. No doubt she was a witch, and the bird was a good spirit.'" There seemed also to have been a belief that fairies assumed the human form, and dwelt amongst men like ordinary people, only now and then returning to their natural 4shape. On a bright summer day in the month of June the mistress of an Orcadian homestead observed some peculiar object beside her cow. She called her husband and son to come out and see what this was. When they approached the plot of ground where their cow was tethered^ they beheld to their great astonishment, a large hare busy milking the cow. But whenever the animal observed them it immediately galloped aWay across the grass. The two men gave pursuit, and calling to their dog they hunted the hare for a few miles, when, suddenly, they observed it enter the open door of a mountain cot. Having come up, breathless with the chase, they also entered, and found an old woman lying upon the hearth before the peat-fire, panting for breath. All her garments were covered with mud, and the perspiration 230 Rambles in the Far North. was pouring from her face. The two men did not stay ta see more, but ran out of the cottage in fear, and spread the report throughout the neighbourhood that old Mabel of the braehead was a witch, a fairie, or a warlock. In these days every person was superstitious, and the story required no second telling to be believed. Every hamlet was up in arms against the supposed witch, and ere another day passed Mabel was seized and carried to the Gallowhall of Kirkwall. Upon that dread spot the pile was kindled, old Mabel was tied to the stake, and burned to death. Her ashes were afterwards collected and scattered to the four winds of heaven. Since then there has not been seen or heard of any of the fairy crew. Seemingly horrified at the cruel fate of Mabel, they for ever bade farewell to the shores of the islands of the cold North Sea. When some of the older inhabitants desire any of their children to go somewhere on a dark night they may be heard to coax them with the remark that " A' the trows are drooned noo, they wunna fleg thee ony mair." This idea was generally very prevalent throughout the Orkney isles, and the disappearance of Orcadian fajries is thus satisfactorily accounted for. Once upon a time, many, many years before anyone now living in Orkney was born, the trows became dis- satisfied with their residence upon the mainland or Pomona. They resolved, therefore, to quit the Pomona hills and Rambles in the Far North. 231 knowes and take up their dwelling beside the Dwarfie Stone among the hills of Hoy. The transmigration was to be accomplished one evening at midnight, when the moon would be full, and everything suitable for the journey. At last the eventful night arrived, and the fairy train proceeded to set out upon their way. They bade farewell to the grassy hillocks upon which they had danced so often, and to the rocky caverns within which they were wont to conduct their nightly revels, and all hied towards the trysting place, which was the Black Craig of Stromness. As the fantastic shapes of the northern trows approached the spot of rendezvous, they kept murmuring in chorus a song something like the following : — ' * From the woods and the glossy green, With the wild thyme strewn ; From the rivers whose crisped sheen Is kissed by the trembling moon ; — While the dwarf looks out from his mountain cave, And the erl-king from his lair, And the water-nymph from her moaning wave, — We skirr the limber air." * Arriving at the spot from which they were to cross the intervening sea, the trows began the necessary preparations. They took a number of stmmons, or straw bands used in thatching houses, and, tying them together, made a long * Lord Lytton. 22,2 Rambles in the Far North. rope of sufficient length to stretch across the sound. One end was made fast upon the top of the Black Craig, and one of their number was delegated to watch that it did not slip. The other end was seized by a long-legged trow called " Hempie, the Ferry -louper," who made an enormous leap and alighted upon the opposite shore. There he made h^'s end fast and prepared to receive his fellow-trows as they crossed over upon the straw rope. After a great deal of bustle and confusion, all the trows got upon the rope and began crossing over ; while about midway the trow left in charge on the Stromness side let go his hold and the whole company of trows fell into the sea, dragging Hempie along with them in their descent. The sea, being rather rough at the time, overwhelmed them all so that everyone was drowned. When the cause of this dire mishap saw what occurred, he determined not to survive his friends ; so, taking a flying leap, he jumped right into the angry waves that were dashing furiously upon the rocks below, and perished amid the foam. At this moment a black cloud passed across the face of the moon, and the raging sea became suddenly still. The form of the Dwarf of Hoy was seen for a few minutes upon a rock overlooking the scene of the catastrophe, and having recited the following verses he suddenly disappeared : — Rambles in the Far North. 233 ** The Trows are gone, forever gone, Far from Orcadia's shore ; Beneath the tide went every one ; I'll see their forms no more. •* The moon is dark, the stars all weep, The sea is hushed and still ; Forever now these fairies sleep, By grassy RnoU and hill. *' Within the caves beneath the sea They dance and sport again ; On Orkney hills no more they'll be ; They live beneath the main. " Farewell, ye sp'rits that cheered my gloom, Farewell, a long farewell ! I, too, must pass into the tomb, No more the tale I'll tell." Such was the fate of the last of the trows. In a former time the people of these islands believed that it was possible for a man or a woman to be turned into a selchie or seal. This, of course, was always done, by means of the evil spirits, called trows, and the following story may be told in illustration of this belief : — .^mismtm At one time, too far back to remember, a woman suddenly disappeared from Yesnaby or Skaill. After a long and arduous search for her by all her friends, no traces of the missing person could be found, and at last it was thought that she must have fallen somewhere into the sea and been carried away by the tide. Her brother, a short time after- p 234 Rambles in the Far North. wards, went to sea, and sailed several very successful voyages. A good many years after his sister's mysterious disappearance he was driven by a storm into some unknown haven, in a country he had never seen or heard of before. When they got landed, he proceeded with his crew to the nearest habitation to ascertain on what coast they had come. On entering the only cottage that appeared to be visible he soon recognised his sister, who seemed to be the mistress of the house. The brother asked her how she had come there, but he received no satisfactory reply. She would give no explanation of the mystery, and evaded every ques- tion that he put. She made many enquiries about the people of Yesnaby, and about her own friends, seemingly taking an interest in their welfare. After these enquiries wete made she seemed to hesitate, and to glance anxiously out of the window towards the shore. She then told her brother and his companions that they would see a selchie come in, but they were to pay no attention to him. She had scarcely uttered the words when a fine-looking seal came crawling in through the door, and, after looking around him, made for the ben-end of the house. He had not been very long ben when a finely-dressed gentleman issued from the apartment, and, taking a chair, seated himself beside the fire. The stranger proceeded to ask many questions at the sailors, especially at the skipper, of whom he inquired Rambles in the Far North. 235 for the people of Yesnaby, Skaill, and neighbourhood. After the usual congratulatory conversation, he said, "You've had a severe storm, but with my assistance you may be able to get safe home again." He then gave them advice. He directed that they should remain until the moon waned, and then he would give them a ball to throw overboard when they were at a certain distance from the land. " But you must be very careful," said he, " in every particular, else you will be driven back again." He also informed them that they would have a fair wind. The fair wind came as he had said, and at the proper time they set sail. When they thought they were at the exact place the ball was thrown overboard ; but they had not proceeded more than two lengths of the ship when the wind changed and became a perfect hurricane. After experiencing some heavy sea they were driven back to the creek from which they had set out, and where their selchie-friend had counselled them. Thinking they could not do better than return to his house, they at once proceeded thither, and met their well-dressed friend at the door. " Well," said he, " fortune has not favoured you." '^ No," said the sailors, " what would be the reason?" "Ah!" said he, "you had not arrived at the proper place; you threw over the ball too soon, and you did not pay sufficient attention to the marks I gave you. Indeed, I was not far away from you at the time and 236 Rambles i7i the Far North. noticed all you did. You must be more exact next time." For the second time the vessel set out upon its voyage and proceeded well for some time. When they thought the exact spot was reached the ball was again thrown over- board, but with the same result. The wind turned con- trary and the sea became once more rough. The wind continued blowing as boisterously as on the former occasion, and again they found themselves driven into the same creek. A third attempt was made, and this one was attended with more favourable results. The magic ball was thrown out at the proper time and in the proper place, and the Orcadian seamen were favoured with a fair wind and a prosperous voyage. When, at last, they arrived amongst their kith and kin they astonished them with the details of their remarkable journey. The skipper's sister, however, was never seen again at Yesnaby, and she may be alive at this day in that strange country with her selchie husband. At Breckrpess there are some rocks much frequented by seals or selchies, as they are called in Orkney ; and one Christmas morning a Breckness man observed a selchie asleep on one of the rocks. He procured his gun, and, creeping up to get a good aim, shot the animal dead. The selchie was brought into the house, skinned, and part of it boiled for oil. A short time after this incident the man's cow died in the byre from some unaccountable cause. Rambles in the Far North. 237 There was no trace of any disease or complaint, and the beast appeared to be in her usual healthy condition. The only cause that could be assigned was that the loss of the cow was a punishment by the sea-trows for the death of the selchie. Next Christmas morning the same man was in the neighbourhood of the rock where he had shot the cause of his misfortune in the previous year, and there he beheld another selchie lying in the same position asleep. This time, however he would not shoot, but retreated immediately to the house, lest some unseen power might compel him to shoot this one also, and so bring more misfortunes upon himself ; so great was his belief that the seal had caused the death of his cow. On another occasion, long long ago, a Breckness man was rambling along the sea shore in the middle of summer. Far away to the westward the Atlantic Ocean heaved and swelled, and the crying sea-birds soared above his head. The murmuring sea, as it ebbed away from the rocks beneath him, glistened in the summer sun, and the distant hills of Hoy loomed up, like grim sentinels, above the scene. The day was warm and the scene inviting, as the young Breckness man threw himself down upon the grassy shore and gazed far out into the horizon, indulging in those dreamy moods that are common to youthful days. As he lay drinking in the beauties of his surroundings, he espied 238 Rambles m the Far North. a mermaid bathing in the sea at a short distance from the spot where he was. She had the most beautiful face he had ever looked upon, and beautiful golden hair that flowed down her milk-white back. Never had this Orcadian gazed upon such a vision of loveliness. Never had he seen a face and form so fair. Beside her lay upon a rock the slough or skin worn by such dwellers in the deep, and the youth knew that if he once gained possession of this slough or caul the mermaid would be unable to return to the water. He made up his mind to endeavour to get possession of the desired object. Creeping down as cautiously as possible, while the mermaid was intently engaged in combing her hair, he managed to get hold of the slough, which he immediately concealed in his bosom. At that moment his presence was observed, and the female turned rapidly round to seize her slough ; but, alas ! it was gone. The tears stole down her cheeks from her pensive eyes as she looked towards the cause of her distress. With pleading words she asked the youth for her property that she might return to the friendly waves, but he would not give it up. He wished her to come home with him and be his bride, and after a little persuasion the mermaid accompanied her capturer home. There the pair were married and lived a happy life together for a number of years. Six children was the product of the marriage — three males and three females — who were Rambles in the Far North, 239 renowned for their remarkable beauty throughout all the Orcadian isles. When they grew up she entreated them to ask their father where he had hid her slough. After much coaxing the favourite daughter succeeded in extracting the much longed for information, and, elated at her success, she immediately hastened to tell her mother. Very soon after- wards the mother disappeared. Many a time the sorrowing father watched the spot where he had, so many years before, found his mermaid bride ; but all in vain. He never saw her golden hair streaming on the tide. The sea-birds cried and circled round his head as of yore, but no mermaid came to that rock to comb her flowing hair in the warm sunshine. At last one day he concealed himself beside a large pile of rocks and began his eager watch. This time he was not disappointed. He observed her coming up out of the water towards the beach and begin to comb her children's heads. But whenever the husband appeared she vanished beneath the waves, not forgetting to take her slough along with her. Many a time she came to that spot to meet her children and to comb their locks, but she never again left the magic caul within her husband's reach. Tradition says that sometimes the sweetest music is heard near the spot where the mermaid was first found. It is said to be the mother of the children singing a Norse sea-song to lull her little ones asleep, the 240 Rambles in the Far North, echoes of which song can never die, but keep sounding on amid the voes and caverns of the rocky deep.* One bright summer day many, many years ago a boat's crew of Shetlanders landed upon a '* stack and skerry " far out in the North Sea, with the intention of capturing some of the selchies that were known to frequent that spot. Upon landing they found a considerable number, many of which were speedily clubbed and deprived of their skins on the spot. The carcases were left upon the rocks, and the men prepared to set out upon their return journey. At that moment a tremendous swell arose upon the sea that compelled them to make for their boat at once. They all embarked in safety except one man who was left behind. The swell was so great that his companions found it im- possible to render him any assistance, and so they were reluctantly compelled to leave the poor fellow to his fate. The night was dark and stormy, the waves beat heavily upon the rocks on which the deserted Shetlander stood, and he imagined that he must soon perish amid the breakers that threatened every now and then to sweep him from his foothold. As he looked around him he observed a number of the selchies that had escaped swimming up to the skerry. Upon landing they took off their seal skins, and appeared * A similar story is related by Dr. Hibbert of a Shetlander in Unst. Rambles in the Far North. 241 in the character of sea-trows. They immediately set to work to endeavour to restore to Hfe their stunned and skin- less friends. After a t"ime their efforts met with success, and they also assumed their sub-marine appearance as sea- trows. But they lamented the loss of their seal skins, which prevented their return to their deep sea homes in the broad Atlantic. Special lamentation was made for one of their number, called Ollavitinus, the son of Gioga, who, thus deprived, must spend forever the remainder of his days in the upper world, removed from all his kith and kin. At last Gioga perceived the shivering form of the abandoned fisherman, who was gazing despairingly across the wild sea waves. She went up to the poor fellow and proposed to carry him back to his friends at Papa-Stour if he would promise to procure for her the skin of her son. This the Shetlander readily did, and, mounting on the back of Gioga, who had now assumed the form of a selchie, he was soon conveyed to the land, which he thought he would never see again. When the overjoyed fishermen landed, he set off at once to Skeo, at Hamna Voe, got possession of the desired skin, and restored it to the anxious mother, who was thus enabled to lead back her son to the watery caves of ocean. Among the old ballads still sung by fair Orcadians is one that tells the story of a grey selchie whose dwelling was in 242 Rambles in the Far North. Sule-^ Skerry. It is only known by some of the older folks, and is sung by them in a charming manner. It was after some searching that we managed at last to get possession of the following words, which compose the ballad. It will be new to most readers, and even to the great majority of Orcadians : — The Grey Selchie of Sule Skerrie. In Norway lands there lived a maid, " Hush, ba, loo lillie," this maid began; ** I know not where my baby's father is, Whether by land or sea does he travel in." It happened on a certain day, "When this fair lady fell fast asleep, That in cam' a good grey selchie, And set him doon at her bed feet, Saying, **Awak', awak', my pretty maid, For oh ! how sound as thou dost sleep ! An' I'll tell thee where thy baby's father is ; He's sittin' close at thy bed feet." *' I pray, come tell to me thy name. Oh ! tell me where does thy dwelling be ? " " My name it is good Hein Mailer, An' I earn my livin' oot o' the sea. ** I am a man upon the land ; I am a selchie in the sea ; An' whin I'm far frae every strand, My dwellin' is in Sule Skerrie." * Icelandic sula, solan-goose. Rambles in the Far North. 243 ** Alas ! alas ! this woeful fate ! This weary fate that's been laid for me ! That a man should come frae the Wast o' Hoy, To the Norway lands to have a bairn wi' me. " ** My dear, I'll wed thee with a ring, With a ring, my dear, I'll wed wi' thee." *' Thoo may go wed thee weddens wi' whom thoo wilt ; For I'm sure thoo'll never wed none wi' me." ** Thoo will nurse my little wee son For seven long years upo' thy knee, An' at the end o' seven long years I'll come back an' pay the norish (nursing) fee." She's nursed her little wee son For seven long years upo' her knee. An' at the end o' seven long years He cam' back wi' gold and white monie. She says, " My dear, I'll wed thee wi' a ring, With a ring my dear, I'll wed wi' thee." ** Thoo may go wed these weddens wi' whom thoo will ; For I'm sure thoo'll never wed none wi' me. *' But I'll put a gold chain around his neck, An' a gey good gold chain it'll be, That if ever he comes to the Norway lands, Thoo may hae a gey good guess on hi'. ** An' thoo will get a gunner good. An' a gey good gunner it will be. An' he'll gae oot on a May mornin' An' shoot the son an' the grey selchie." Oh ! she has got a gunner good, An' a gey good gunner it was he, An' he gaed out on a May mornin', An' he shot the son and the grey selchie. 244 Rambles in the Far North. When the gunner returned from his expedition and shewed the Norway woman the gold chain, which he had found round the neck of the young seal, the poor woman realising that her son had perished, gives expression to her sorrow in the last stanza : — *' Alas ! alas ! this woeful fate ! This weary fate that's been laid for me ! " An' ance or twice she sobbed and sighed, An' her tender heart did brak in three. Now it is almost impossible to recover much of the richest and most fascinating of the myth tales and "here-meed rhymes " that have so often, in days gone by, charmed the family circle and social group. A few gems might possibly be recovered, but these, we are afraid, would be " few and far between." The oral and ballad lore of Orkney is fast drifting into oblivion. We can scarcely leave the traditionary lore that has arisen in reference to the seal without giving another tale, which is told in the native dialect by Mr. W. T. Dennison in his "Orcadian Sketchbook." It will give the stranger to Orcadian speech some idea of the peculiarities of that nor- thern tongue, which " is formed from two languages, both flowing from one source, yet diverging widely and for long ages, and then meeting and amalgamating in a rude unwrit- ten dialect of the remote islands of Orkney." The Norse Rambles tn the Far North. 245 -element, that once formed a large portion of common Orcadian speech, is gradually fading away, and only survives in a few expressions, some of which are given in the follow- ing tale, entitled : — The Selkie that Deud no' Forget. Ae time langsine, Mansie Meur was pickan' lempeds i' the ebb, on the wast side o' Hacksness i' Sanday, whin he wus stunned tae hear some wey amang the rocks a unco' ceurious sound. Sometimes hid was Hke a bothy i* terrable pain, makin' meen ; an' dan hid wad mak' a lood soond like the root o' a deean' coo. An' dan again de soond wad dee awa' tae a laich an' maist peetifu' meen, as gin hid been a bothy ootmucht'* i' a bought o' the wark. The soond wus sae awfu' peetifu', hid meed Mansie think lang tae hear hid. Mansie could see naethin' for a peerief while, bit a muckle selkie closs in at the rocks, rakin' his heed abeun de skreuf| o' the water, an' leukan' wi' baith his een i'tae a geo a peerie bit awa'. An' Mansie noticed that the selkie wus no faer'd, niver dookid, an' niver teuk his e'e aff o' that geo. Mansie ^eed ower a muckle rock 'at lay atween him an' that geo ; an' there, i' a cunyo§ o' the geo, he saw a mither selkie lyan' in a' the trouble o' her callowin'-pains. An' hid was * Out of breath. f Little. % Surface. § Crevice. 246 Rambles in the Far North. her that meed a' the sair meen an' lood yowlin' ; an' the faither selkie lay i' the sea watchin' his marrow i' her trouble. Mansie stood an' watched her teu, an' said it was peetifu' tae see what the peur dumb animal suffered. An' there he steud, a bit aff, till sheu callowed twa bonnie selkie calves, that wur nee seuner on the rock or dey gripped for de pap. Mansie t'ought tae himsel' the calf hides wad mak' a bonnie waistco't tae him; and he ran tae whar dey wur a' free lyan'. The peur mither selkie rowed hersel' ower the face o' de rock i'tae the sea \ bit her twa birds hed no' wit tae flee. Sae Mansie gripped dem baith. An' dan hid wus sae wonderfu' tae see the atfares* o' the mither selkie. She teuk sic' t'ought for her young. She rowed aboot an' aboot i' the sea, an' baeted hersel' wi' her megs,t like a t'ing distracted. An' dan sheu wad dimmer ap wi^ her fore megs on de face o' de rock, an' glower'd i' Man- sie's face, wi' a luck sae terrably peetifu', hid wad hae melted a he'rt o' steen tae seen her. The father selkie was ga'n the sam' wey, only he wad no' come sae near Mansie. Mansie turned tae gang awa' wi' the twa selkie birds i' his arms, — dey wur sookin' at his co't as gin dey been at the mither's breest, — whin he heard the selkie mither gae a groan sae dismal an' how, an' sae human like, that hid geed * Bahaviour. t Paws, or semi-fins of the seal. Rambles in the Far North. 247 stra'cht tae his he'rt, an' fairly overcam' him. He lucked aboot, an' saw the mither selkie lyan' on her side, wi' her heed on the rock ; an' he saw — as seur as ever he saw a t'ing on earth — the tears feeman'* frae baith her e'en. Tae see nater wirkin' sae sair i' the peur dumb crater, he could nae bide hid mair. Sae he looted doon an' passed baith the peerie selkies on the rock. The mither took them i' her megs, an' clespid dem tae her bosom, as gin sheu been a bothy wi' a bairn. An' sheu luckid i' Mansie's face ; — Oh ! sic a blithe luck the selkie gae him. Sheu deud Mansie geud tae see her. For dat day the selkie deud ivery t'ing but spaek. Mansie was dan a young man ; an' a while efter dat he merried. An' a lang while efter he merried, whin his bairns wur groun-ap folk, he geed tae bide on the wast side o' Eday. Ae bonnie e'enin', Mansie geed tae fish sillo's afF o' a oot-lyan' rock. , He was a oot-flow rock, that ye could only gang tae dry-shod wi' low water. The fish wad no' tak' ava' for a peerie while ; bit whin he begood tae flou, sheu set on an' teuk brawly, sae that Mansie steud an' hauled whill he filled his sea-cubbie.f The fish teuk sae bonnie, that i' his feurcness t tae fish he forgot the gate he had tae gang. An' whin he cam' tae gang heem, he wus * Streaming. f Bait-basket. % Rashness. 248 Rambles in the Far North. sairly stunned tae see the trink atween him an' the land fairly flou'd ower, an' the sea sae deep he wad taen him abeun da heed. Mansie cried an' better cried ; bit he wus far fae ony hoose, and nee bothy heard his cries. The water raise an' raise, cam' up abeun his knees, abeun his benches, ap tae his oxters; an' miny a sair sich gae he, as de water cam' aye hicher an' nearer to his chin. He cried while he wus trapplehers', an' he could cry nee mair. An' dan he gae ap a' hup' o' life, an' saw naething afore him bit dismal daeth. An' dan, as de sea wus comin' roond his hass,* an' comin' noos an' dans i' peerie lippers f tae his mooth, jeust as he t'and the sea beginnin' tae lift him fae the rock, summin' gripped him bae the neck o' the co't an' whipped him aff o' his feet. He kent no' what hid wus, or whar he wus, till he f'and his feet at the boddam, whar he could wad ashore i' safety. An' whin de craeter 'at hed baud o' him passed him, he wadded tae the dry land. He luckid whar he cam' fae, an' saw a muckle selkie swiman' tae the rock, whar sheu dookid, teuk ap his ,cubbie o' fish, an' swam wi'd tae the land. He wadded oot an' teuk the cubbie fu' o' fish oot o' her mooth j an' he said wi' a' his he'rt, " Geud bliss the selkie that deus no' forget." An' she luckid tae him, as gin, if sheu could * Neck. t Ripples. Rambles in the Far North. 249 liae spoken, sheu wad hae said, "Ae geud turn meets anither." Sheu wus the same selkie that he saw callowan' on Hacksness, forty years afore. He said he wad hae kent her mitherly luck amang a thoosan'. Bit sheu was groun a arknae.* Sae that wus the selkie that deud no' forget I wiss' a' bothy may mind on what's geud, as weel as that selkie. " In the superstitious belief of the North," says Mn Dennison in a foot-note, " the seal held a far higher place than any other of the lower animals, had a mysterious connection with the human race, and had the power of assuming the human form and faculties. Indeed, though he may not acknowledge it, every true descendant of the Norsemen looks upon the seal as a kind of second cousin in disgrace. And why not ? If Darwinism be right, the seal is far more likely to have been the remote ancestor of a man than the monkey ; if we take into account length of head and shortness of tail. Anyhow our tale should be true, because I have far more vouchers for its veracity than I ever heard for the authenticity of Androclus and the Lion. At all events the tale itself is a gem of beauty." When a person was drowned in Sweden the people said, Nokken tog ham bort, i.e., the Nokke (or water spirit), took * A very old Seal. Q 250 Rambles in the Far North. him away. The following story is quite common in Sweden : — •' Two boys were one time playing by a river that ran by their father's house. The Neck (in Danish Nokke) rose and sat on the surface of the water, and played on his harp ; but one of the children said to him, ' What is the use Neck, of your sitting there playing ? You will never be saved.' The Neck then began to weep bitterly, flung away his harp, and sank down to the bottom. The children went home and told the whole story to their father, who was the parish priest. He said they were wrong to say so to the Neck, and desired them to go immediately back to the river and console him with the promise of salvation. They did so ; and when they came down to the river the Neck was sitting on the water, weeping and lamenting. They then said to him, ' Neck do not grieve so ; our father says that your Redeemer liveth also.' The Neck then took his harp and played most sweetly until after the sun was gone down."* Reginald Scot, in his " Discoverie of Witchcraft" (1665), tells us of a very important Brownie, named Luridan, who inhabited the Orkneys. He attended several families as a kind of general servant, sweeping their rooms and washing their dishes, and putting on their fires long before any of * See Afzelius. Sago-hiifdar, II. 156. Rambles in the Far North. 251 them were up. Luridan asserted that he was the genius Astral of Pomona, and had resided in the days of Solomon and David at Jerusalem. At that time he was known amongst the Jews as Belelah. Leaving Palestine he took up his abode in Wales, where he inspired the Welsh bards, being known by the name of Wrthin or Wadd ; " and now," said he, " I have removed hither, and alas ! my continuance is but short, for in seventy years I must resign my place to Balkin, lord of the Northern Mountains!' This Balkin seems to have been shaped like a satyr and to have had a large family numbering about twelve thousand. These composed the northern fairies, who inhabited Orkney and the North of Scotland. It is said that their speech was ancient Irish, so they must have belonged to the Keltic race. These spirits are said to have been always at war with the fiery spirits, who were believed to keep the mountain of Heckla in trim. Luridan was a great opponent to these fiery spirits, as we are informed by the Book of Vanagastus, the Norwegian. Before bringing this sketch to a close it may not be uninteresting to compare a belief which prevails among the North American Indians with those of Scandinavia. The particulars were derived from an Orcadian who spent many years in the service of the Hudson Bay company. Among these Indians the supreme evil Spirit is known 252 Rambles in the Far North. by the name of Whittigo or Windigo, and is the source of most of the misfortunes that befall the aborigines of the American continent. A poor savage was out hunting with his wife or squaw one day, and as they were travelling through a large pine forest they sat down beneath one of the huge trees to await the time of night when the light of the rising moon would pierce the thick foliage above their heads. As they lay there amid the silence of the mighty forest the savage was suddenly startled by a great noise behind him. It seemed like the sound of thunder accompanied with the crackling of branches and the falling of trees. On looking round he noticed a huge monster of enormous size, tall and fierce looking, crushing down everything that came in his way. Arriving at a certain spot he halted and prepared to light a fire in the usual Indian fashion. He took two dry sticks, one of which was pointed and the other having a groove running from end to end. Rubbing the two together, he appeared to be in great fury and disappoint- ment. In a few seconds a blue flame arose from the sticks with which he kindled a great fire. Dragging his bag from behind him he drew out a large pot and emptied the contents of his bag — rabbits and other animals of the chase into the cauldron. In an instant they were ready cooked. He snatched them up and ate them greedily, but, apparently, was not satisfied, though his feast would have been sufficient Rambles in the Far North. 253 for a dozen savages. Taking a bit of thread out of his side pouch he tied it round a rabbit's head, and holding it between his two fingers he twirled the head of the rabbit round about. He still seemed to be very dissatisfied with his repast, crying out in the Indian tongue, " Where are the people ? O, where are the people ?" The savage, thinking that he might dis- appear himself soon in the huge pot, raised his tomahawk and, with the quickness and precision of an Indian hunter, split the head of the great evil spirit. At this instant Windigo — for this was no other than he — disappeared in a blue-light. Since that time several young Windigoes have got abroad, and cases have been known of savages shooting their squaws while pregnant, urged on with the fiendish idea that they might bring forth little Windigoes, who might roam through the forests and disturb the hunting grounds of the far North-West. This concluding sketch has grown upon us to a consider- able extent, and it is with great reluctance that we quit so fertile a field as that of Orcadian Folk-lore. Some other time perhaps, it may fall to our lot to wander more afield in the same direction, and should our gleanings prove to be of an interesting and amusing description the reading public may be permitted to read and taste for themselves. We must now bid adieu to those scenes of many a his- toric incident, " where restless seas 2 54 Rambles in the Far North. " Howl round the storm-swept Orcades, — Where erst St. Clair bore princely svtay O'er isle and islet, strait and bay ; — And there, in many a stormy vale, The Scald had told his wondrous lale ; And many a Runic column high Had witnessed grim idolatry." The object of these imperfect sketches has been to create some httle interest in places in our native land, places which are even in this nineteenth century scarcely known at all. It is much to be desired that people who are inclined for travel should devote some portion of their time in becoming acquainted with historic scenes which lie so near home. A trip to the islands of the North Sea would afford its own reward in the shape of better health and a more accurate knowledge of the geographical features of our own dear island. The antiquarian, the geologist, the botanist, the his- torian, the painter, and the pleasure seeker may all obtain amid those wild seas fitting objects for their study and amusement. The very atmosphere seems pregnant with tales of by-gone days when heroes roved upon those waters, and wandering Scalds sung of Scandinavian lore and the mighty deeds of brave and chivalrous men. The grey stone monuments still whisper silently of an ancient religion now forgotten and of the happy Valhalla where those Norse heroes sleep. Rambles in the Far North. 255 ' And here, as fancy's flight doth stray Thro' time's far twilight tracts away, Methinks the northern lights that fly Like sheeted spectres o'er our sky, Might seem the spirits of the brave, Whose bodies moulder by the wave. Holding their dance above the shore Which knows, alas ! their names no more." APPENDIX I. The following article appeared in the columns of the Scotsman of the nth May, 1883, and is inserted here to give an idea of the rapid increase that has taken place of late years in Orcadian exports : — A YEAR'S EXPORTS FROM ORKNEY. A hundred years ago the value of exports from Orkney in a single year amounted to only ;,^23,cx)0, and by the end of the century it had risen to about ;^40,cxx». So great has been the subsequent expansion of trade, particularly during the last thirty years, that the annual amount is now almost if not quite ^{^300, 000, to which the item of eggs alone contributes nearly as much as the total for the year 1800. And it may be noted that the nature of the exports has entirely changed. Kelp, linen, and linen yarn, calf and rabbit skins, and plaited straw were the principal articles of export in the early years of the country ; now, live stock is by far the most important. The growth of this trade in live stock will be seen by examining some figures relating to various years within the last half-century. In 1833 the number of animals sent out of the country was only 1280, representing a money value of £^6^']%. Fifteen years later, largely owing to the introduction of steam com- munication with the south, the number had risen to 2500, worth ;^I2,625. This increase is all the more remarkable in that it took place in a period of great depression all over the country. From this time Appendix. the trade continued to expand. In 1861 the exported numbered 9241, worth ;^68,844 ; in 1866, 12,260, worth ;^8o,200; and last year reached the respectable totals of 17,279 and ;!^i57,i83. Cattle bulks most largely in these figures. In 1848 the number exported was 1580, valued at £TJ00. By 1866 the number had increased to 7340, and, as the average price of cattle had doubled in the meantime, their money value was ;,^73,400. One of the most remarkable features in the trade of Orkney is the enormous growth in the export of eggs within the last fifty years, which will be seen by a glance at the following table : — 1833, 100,000 doz. at 6d ^^2500 1861, .. 1866, .. 983,220 doz. at 8d 32,774 998,480 doz. at 8d 33,282 ... 1,119,860 doz. at 8d 37,328 500,000 doz. at 6d 12,500 715,000 doz. at 7d 20,854 There was thus an increase of ;i^4046 on this item last year. Seeing that England imports from the Continent eggs to the annual value of several millions, there is a wide field open to Orcadian farmers and crofters, and, indeed, to farmers everywhere. Of the quantity of grain exported during 1882 we have been unable to obtain so complete returns as of the other subjects, and the statistics given below are certainly, though perhaps not much, under the mark. The quantity exported in 1866 amounted to 35,730 quarters with 3522 bolls of meal, valued together at ;!^38,9ii ; and our figures for last year place the quantity at 14,871 quarters with 864 bolls of meal, valued at ^14,258, prices having been lower in the latter year. Making every allowance for the incompleteness of our statistics, there has undoubtedly been a very large falling off during these seventeen years. To what is this reduction due ? Keeping in mind the greater use of wheaten bread it can hardly be attributed to the increased consumption by a larger popu- lation. And it is not due to any decrease in production, for the acreage under corn crops has been steadily rising year by year, though perhaps not at the same rate as grass and pasture lands. It is probable, however, that a much larger quantity than formerly is used on the farms in connection with the raising of stock. Gathering together all our figures for the past year we get the fol- lowing result : — Appendix. 259 Bulls, 64 at £2%, . Cattle, 7543 at £\Z, Horses, 163 at £2\, Sheep, 5324 at 38s., Lambs, 3536 at 24s, Swine, 649 at ^3, Dead Pigs, 3850 at £z, . Eggs, 1,119,860 doz. at 8d., Oats, 13,319 qrs. at i8s., . Barley, 952 qrs. at 20s 6d,. Bere, 600 qrs. at 19s 5d, . Meal, 864 bolls at i6s 6d, . Total, Grand Total,. ^1792 135.774 3912 10,115 4243 1947 ;^i57,783 16 ;^ii,55o ;^37,328 13 4 ;^I 1,987 2 O 975 16 o 582 10 o 7:2 16 o ;^i4,253 4 o ;^22o,920 13 4 These figures look small, no doubt, if compared with similar statistics for some other counties in Scotland ; but in comparison with the trade of Orkney itself in the past, or even with that of other counties now, if due allowance be made for differing circumstances, they are figures which, taken altogether, must be viewed with satisfaction. 11. CLOSE OF THE ORKNEY HERRING FISHING. The herring fishing in Orkney has this year been in several respects the most remarkable on record. Over 200 boats 2 6o Appendix. have been engaged at the various stations, and the small boats so customary some years ago in Orkney are now conspicuous by their absence — large decked and finely-equipped boats taking their place. An encouraging feature of this change is the fact that many of the Orkney boats are now holding their own in competition with south country boats. Last year the fish were got at a great offing, the boats sometimes going 40 and 60 miles to sea, but this year some of the heaviest shots have been taken inshore. A trial was made for the first time of the early fishing on the west side of the islands — two curers having started stations in Westray — but the venture only proved partially successful, and as the herring set in earlier than usual to the east coast, the boats removed to Stronsay. At this latter station the fishing has been most remarkably successful, the average for 90 boats being 200 crans. During one week the boats were so heavily laden that curers were unable to overtake the work, and heaps of fish, some hundreds of yards in length, had to be piled on the grass fields and roused in salt. While the fishing, however, was thus successful as regards the take, many were losers by the heavy shots, several boats being cleaned of their entire drift of nets. So packed were the fish in the nets that they sank ; and, as the fishing was not only heavy but general, the boats could get no assistance from neighbours, as is often secured in similar difficulty. The result of this success is that a very considerable addition may be expected to the fishing fleet in Orkney next year, and already it is stated that some new stations will be started in the island of Sanday, which should be in a position to compete favourably with Stronsay. Mr. Chalmers, Kirkwall, has removed his station from Stronsay to Tankerness. Several of the south country and Campbeltown boats completed their complements before the close of the engaged time, and as the weather was broken, prepared to return home, otherwise the total might have been increased. The average catch in Orkney has never exceeded 100 crans until this year, when it has reached the respectable average of 180 crans. Nearly the same total was caught in 1853, when 36, 143 crans were landed by 367 boats, but this only gave an average of 98 crans. In 1875, 3°° boats fished in the islands, but the following five years the number gradually decreased until in 1880 there was only 170. Since then, however, the boats have steadily though slowly increased in number and size, until this year there are 205. On several occasions the average in Orkney has been a miserable one, notably in the following years : — Appendix. 261 Year. Crans. 1864, 18 1865, . 29 1867, 45 1868, 32 1871, 41 1875. 41 1876, i8>^ 1877, , 45^ 1879, . 46 The statistics for the past five years, howeVer, have been more en- couraging, viz: — Year. 1 880, 1881, 1882, Crans. 95 80 81K 180 The following table gives the complete statistics for the past 31 years : — ^ears. Boats. Average. Total. 1853 367 98 36,143 1854 371 50^ 18,876 1855 362 76 27,512 1856 377 31X 11,800 1857 380 35K 13,481 1858 370 37X 13,822 1859 330 Z\Ya 11,490 i860 347 33 11,890 1861 335 28^ 9,600 1862 274 43 11,755 1863 220 97 21,390 1864 238 18 4, 325 I865 230 29 6,730 1866 222 50 11,600 1867 234 45 10,490 1868 232 32 7,425 262 Appendix. Years. Boats. Average. TotaL 1869 275 7IK 19,590 1870 260 65^ 17,100 I87I 260 40^ 10,600 1872 264 78>^ 20,707 1873 283 7i>^ 20,238 1874 290 70 20,284 1875 317 41 12,916 1876 260 ^^Yz 4,843 1877 215 ASH ■ 9,772 1878 192 I^Vz 14,722 1879 183 46 8,418 1880 170 95 16,142 I88I 180 80 14,418 1882 197 81K 16,018 1883 205 180 36,903 As regards the last week there is little to report, as there was no at- tempt at fishing. Monday and Tuesday nights were stormy. On Wednes- day most of the boats were beached opposite their winter berths, and during the other days of the week nearly all of them were drawn up and secured for the season. The stranger boats all left during the week, most of them having exceeded their complements — 200 crans. The average for the 205 boats is 180 crans, against 81^ crans for 197 boats last year. One very favourable record is that the year has been entirely free of any drowning accident in connection with the industry. As already stated, there was a considerable loss of netting, but no damage to boats of any consequence. The quality of the fish has, as a rule, been somewhat mixed, a large proportion of the catch being matties. — Orkney Herald, September 1 2th, 1883. INDEX, Page Page Algarus, Letter of King . 166 Cattle, Price of . 151 Adamnan, St. . 78 Celtic Church, the . 99 Agricultural Eeport of Ork ney . 144 Changeling of Unst, the . 221 Agriculture Two Centuries Ago . 144 Chapels of South Ronaldshay 105 Alfa-Folk . . 198 Chapel of St. Fredwell 213 Alfs .... . 200 Characteristics of Orcadians 44,155 Asmundarvagr . 13 Charms .... 166,211 Asterolepis of Stromness, t le . 63,74 Charm for Toothache 212 Auld-Cluttie taking Notes . 224 Chase, an exciting 176 Christianity, Introduction of 95 Bairns of Brugh 88 Church in Flotta, Ancient 21 Balfour, Sir Gilbert . . 123 Church in Walls, Old 13 Balkin, Lord of the Noi 'thern Church of Orphir, Temple . 24 Mountains . . 251 Churches, Round 25 Barry, Dr. . 20 Churches, Orcadian Parish 25 Bells of Kirkwall Cathedra I . 27 Church in Birsay, Christ's . 83 Beliefs of Two Hundred Years Church in Birsay, Old Norse 84 Ago . . 203 Church of Egilshay, one towered 88 Beltane 99 Church of St. Peter's, South Ben Jo . . . 21 Ronaldshay 92 Bessie Miller 65 Churchyard Inscriptions . 109 Betsy Barnett . . 71 Clair, Lord Henry St. 80 Bigland, Katherine 33 Clair, Sir James St. . 80 Binscarth . 79 Clew of Fate, the 80,163 Birsay . 79,82 Clontarf, Battle of . 101 Birsay, Palace of 82 Clibber and Mazy 146 Birsay, Parish Church of 86 Codfishing .... 135 Birsay, Brough of 84 Columba and his Apostles, St. 99 Bishop Keid . 27,41 Cogue, the Marriage . 157 Bishop's Palace, Kirkwall 41 Conversion of Jarl Sigurd . 100 Black Craigs . 73 Cormac .... 99 Black Isle Dame 71 Corquey, tumuli of . Crofters' Commission, the . 128 Bothwell, Adam, Bishop . 123 150 Bounty, Mutiny of the 64 Cross-Marked Stone, a 105 Brownie of Noltland Castl e, the 124 Croupin of Yesnaby, the . 219 Brownies . . 203 Croupin of Pomona, the 222 But and a Ben, a . 154 Cruise of the Betsy . 58 Byron's "Torquil" . . . 64 Crusades .... 25 Cubbarow's Castle 87 Cairston Roads . 62 Cubbierow's Stone 129 Caithness, Earl of 80 Cup, the Bishop's 43 Calf of Flotta . 22 Curious Stone, a 92 Cautic-Head 16 Curious Certificate, a . 107 Caschiclaivis, the 32 Castle of Kirkwall . 42 Dalriadic Kings, the . 100 Cathedral of St. Magnus, Kirk- Danisay, Island of 78 wall . . . 26 Danish Inscriptions . . lOi 264 Index. Page Page Da King 0' Fairie 20.fi Funeral customs . 156 DaoineSith 208 Dicuil, the Irish Monk 100 Gairsay, island of 79 Drever, Jonet 32 Gala-day, an Orcadian, . 183 Druids .... 95 Gallow-hall 31 Druidism, Remnants of 98 Gerrard, the Rev, John " . . 107 Druid's Rites 93 Gisli at Sedge Tarn . . 172 Duncansbay Head 11 Gow the Pirate, John 64 Dwarfie Stone, the 57 Granite City, the 9 Dwarfie Hamars, the . 58 Grant, Kathrin6 32 Dwarf, Supposed Return of thf ; 58 Graysteel, the Sword . 209 Dwarf of Hoy and the Trows 232 Haaf fishing, the . 169 Eagle and Young Pig, the . 57 Haco, King 28 Earl's Palace, Kirkwall 41 Hacon, Jarl 25 Earny Couligs . 94 Hakonson, Jarl Paul . . 128 Ecclesiastical Remains 13 Hallowe'en in the Far North . 158 Egelshay, Island of . 88 Hamilton, Rev. Mr., of Hoy 57 Elves 194 Harald Haarfagri . 105 Elve Dance, Sir Olof in the 197 Harrard, field of 23 Eric of Denmark 123 Harray, Hundred Lairds of . 149 Eric, King of Sweden 65 Harray, Loch of . 81 Erlend, Jarl 79 Harray, valuation of Parish of . 152 Exciseman Outwitted, the . 174 Havard, Jarl 48 Experiment, a Novel . 139 Heckla, mountain of . . 251 Exports, a Year's 257 Heddle, J. G. Moodie, of Me 1- Expressions, Superstitious . 165 setter .... . 153 Eynhallow .... 90 Hempie the Ferry-louper . . 232 Hen of Gairsay, the . 79 Fair Isle .... 131 'Herring- Fishing 139,259 Fairy Lore 190 Herring bait, in search of . . 187 Fairy Tales 219 Hilliel's Water . 16 Fairies, Lament for Departure f 191 Hogfolk .... . 195 Fairies, Regret for Departure f 192 Hoglan's Water . 16 Fairy Guizards . 158 Hogmanay . 170 Farming .... 17,141 Holms .... . 184 Farmer's Cottage of the Older 1 Hosiery, Fair Isle . 134 Time .... 154 Howe of Hoxay 94 Fatal Sisters, Song of the . 102 Hoy, scenery of . 18 Fibulae of Silver 51 Hruga, Kolbein . 87 Find, a lost 175 Huldrafolk . 195 Finn men .... 209 Finstown .... 76 Icelandic Elves or Dwarfs . . 198 Firth 77 Irving, Washington . . 119 Fire-Spirits of Hecla, the . 251 Fishing Exploits 135 Jacobite Rebellion of 1745 . 126 Flint Weapons . 15 James V 41 Flotta, Island of 21 John 0' Groat's House 10 Folk-lore, Scandinavian . 194 Jul or Yule 99 Football, game of 172 Forced labour . 150 Kilns . 163 Forespoken water 212 Kirkwall .... 40 Forest, the ... 77 Knowe of Saverough . 85 Fortune Spaeing 162 Fortune Telling . 215 Lady Kirk, South Ronaldshay 93 Fossils .... 74 Lady, Song of Our . 170 Fowls, Orcadian 22 Lammas Fair, An eventful 29 Frey, festival of . 98 Land-tenure in Orkney 141 Index. 265 Largs, Battle of . Legend of Scandinavia, a Lentulus, Letter of . Lochs of Stenness and Harray Lodbrock, Ragnar Longhope . Luridau the Brownie . Magnus, Cathedral of St. Magnus, Murder of Jarl Maes-Howe Maid of Norway, The Mammie Scott . Manse, An Orcadian . Margaret's Hope, St. . Marriage Fea.st, A Martello Towers, Mary Queen of Scots Maxwell, Bishop Mazikeen, The . Medina, Don Gomez de Melsetter . Mermaids . Mermaid Bride, The . Miller, Hugh Morton, Earl of . Mounsey, Guilemus . Mummies of Stroma . Neck, The Weeping . New Year Eve Song . New \ ear's Day Noma and the Trolld , Noma of the Fitful Head Norse Pirates Norse Ballad, An Old Norse Sea Kings Norse Words Object of the Sketches Odals-jord Odin, Stone of . Okstro, Brough of Olaf, Church of St. . Old Customs Old Man of Hoy, The Omens Orcadian Cradle Song, An Osmundwall Ossiau's Blue- Low Otterswick, Bay of . Oystei'-beds of Firth . Paul, Jarl . Paladius . Peats, Discovery of . Peat-cutting Peat, Kinds of . 41 224 166 81 47 11,13,73 250 26 89 45 28 66 11 108 156 16 123 27 199 132 16 202 237 63 83 58 177 250 170 172 59 35,59 20 205 98 167 254 142 52 86 29 158,169 56 165 168 13,100 221 121 78 78 100 ISO 180 181 Peat-raising and Leading . Pellacks . . . . Pentland Firth, The . Peterkiu, Sheriff Peter's Church, St., South Bonaldshay Picts' Houses in Rousay . Pickie Lairds Planking, Process of . Plants .... Ploiigh, Old Orcadian Poetry, Scandinavian Presbyteries of North of Scotland, Meeting Place of Price of Cattle . Quoyness .... Rackwick .... Reid, Bishop Reid, Janet Reoch, Elspeth . Richart, Mareoune Ringworm Cure Rognvald, Jarl . Roualdshay, South . Rood Kirk of Walls . Rooing-day, The Rosabelle, the Rose of Roslin Roslin .... Rousay, Island of Runes .... Run-rig System Russell, Rev. James, of Walls Saga of Gisli Saga of Erick Randa . Saithe Fishing . Sauday, Island of Scandinavian Colony, A . Scandinavian Influences Scapa Bay .... Scapa Flow Scandinavia, Theology of . Scientific Agriculture, Dawn of Sculptured Stones Sea-Trows .... Selchie and the Woman of Skaill, The , Selchie of Brejjkness, The . Selchies of the " Stalk and Skerry," The Selchie of Sule Skerry, The Grey Selchie that deud no forget, The Serf, St Sliee]', Breed of . . . Shetlauder among the Trows, The Shoupeltins . . » . 182 209 10 126 92 128 152 148 ■''2 145 38 21 151 121 144 27,41 35 31 33 213 26,38 92,105 13 183 125 125 128 46 148 14 172 215 138 121 15 95 43 62 96 147 105 209 240 242 245 100 148 201 202 266 Index. Sigurd, Jarl .... 100 Sibbald, Sir Kobert ... 132 Sinclair of Warsetter, Sir William 123 Skald, Bishop Bjariii . . 88 Skebeister, Bessie ... 35 Skuld 97 Smuggling 173 Smuggler, A Long Headed . 174 Sourin, Valley of . . . 128 South Ronaldshay . . 92,105 Spanish Armada, Wreck of . 132 Standing Stones of Stenuess, The 50 Stewart, Earl Patrick . . 41 Stone of Odin .... 52 Stone of St Magnus, South Ronaldshay ... 93 Storm Scene, A ... 18 Story, A Longhope . . . 178 Stroma, Island of . . .177 Stromness 62 Strange, Sir Robert ... 41 Stronsay, Island of . . . 121 Stuart, Prince Charles Edward . 126 Style of Farm Houses . . 153 Summerdale, Battle of . .80 Superstitions, Departing . . 210 Superstition, Dregs of . .213 Swein .... 78,128 Temple Churches of Britain . 25 Temple Church of Orphir . . 24 Thorbiorga, The Soothsayer . 215 Thorfinn, Earl . . . 36,38,83,94 Thule 131 Tomison's Academy, South Ronaldshay . . .108 Torfaeus, The Historian . , 20 Torf-Einar . , . .180 Toysker, The . . . . 181 Tredwell's Chapel, St. . . 213 Triptolemus, An Orcadian . 145 Trippa'sSon .... 201 Tritons 202 Trows or Orcadian Fairies . . 190 Trows and the Maid of Unst, the 226 Trows, Drowning of the . . 230 Tryggvason, King Olaf . . 100 Tulloch, Thomas de. Bishop of Orkney . . . .1231 Page Tumuli . . . 13,22,94,123,128 Twatt 82 Udal Tenure .... 141 Udallers 142 Umskiptingar .... 199 Unlucky Names .... 165 Urd 97 Valkyrie, Realm of . . . 165 Valkyriar, or Choosers of the Slain 101 Vanagastus, Look of . . . 251 Vandalism 91 Vernandi 97 Veira, Island of ... 87 Vikings, the .... 36 Visit of Thorfinn to King Magnus 36 Walls, Parish of ... 12 Walking Stone of Birsay, the - 53 Watch and Pray - - - 178 Weir, Island of - - . - 87 Westray, Island of . - - 123 Westray, Papa . . - . 127 White-sea Bird and the Fisher- men, The - ... 228 Windigo, the evil spirit of the Far North West - - - 252 WiUiam the Old ... 83 Windy Cap, Eric . - - 65 Witch Mabel .... 230 Witch of Summerdale, The - 80 Witchcraft Trials ... 31 Wooded Orcadia - - - 179 Worsaae - - ... 28 Wreck of the &tar of Dundee - 73 Wreck of the Spanish Armada - 132 Wrecks on Fair Isle - - - 134 Wrestin Thread, The - - 212 Wunster Well of Flotta - - 214 Yair, Rev. D. W. of Firth - - 78 Yarpha .... - 181 Yell, the old woman of - - 200 Yggdrasill, the ash . - - 97 Yule, or the Jul feast - - 98 Yule, Rev. Mr. of Kirkwall - 224 Zetlandic Rhymes - - - 120 Zetlandic Fishermen - - - 169 ERRATA. p. 59 1. 12, for Tholld read Trolld. p. 69 1. 9, after would ,, not. p. 85 1. 2, for 1927 ,, 1627. p. 118 1. 26, ,, Magus ,, Magnus. p. 121 1. 13, „ Otterwick ,, Otterswick p. 138 1. 18, „ A As. p. 167 1. 7, ,, example ,, examples. p. 198 11. 14, 18, 2\Jor 0\{ read 0\oL p. 234 1. 24, ,, be „ the. 14 DAY USE RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED LOAN DEPT. This book is due on the last date stamped below, or on the date to which renewed. Renewed books are sub jea to immediate recalL ^^Df^Awy osg ^t^Al i 3 ]yo2 ^t-C'D LD ^^Nl3^9S2 -j^l (4^90Ql' R "received" b-u^3-68"9 LOAM DEPT. LD 21A-50m-8,'61 (Cl795sl0)476B General Library University of California Berkeley jvi3179e9