Tllii SS?*! BANCROFT LIBRARY o THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA V^CL / / "<. ^N GAZETTEER OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA; COMPRISING A CONCISE GENERAL VIEW OF THE UNITED STATES, AND PARTICULAR DESCRIPTIONS OF THE SEVERAL STATES, TERRITORIES, COUNTIES, DISTRICTS, CITIES, TOWNS, VILLAGES, THEIR MOUNTAINS, VALLEYS, ISLANDS, CAPES, BAYS, HARBORS, LAKES, RIVERS, CANALS, RAILROADS, . CROWN POINT, N. Y., .... DIGHTON ROCK, MS., .... DRENNON SPRINGS, KY., . FLUSHING, N. Y., FORT TICONDEROGA, N. Y., FRANCONIA NOTCH, N. H. . . OINGERCAKE ROCKS, N. C., GUILFORD POINT, CT., . HAMPTON BEACH, N. II., . HARPER'S FERRY, VA., . HARRODSBURG SPUING S, KY., HOBOKEN, N. J., HOPKINTON SPRINGS, MS. . HOT SPRINGS, AS., .... HOT SPRINGS, VA., . HOUSE OF NATURE, IS., . INDIAN SPRINGS, GA., .... ISLES OF SHOALS, ME AN!) N. IL, LATONIAN SPRINGS, KY., . LONG BRANCH, N. J., ... LOOKOUT MOUNTAIN, GA., MADISON'S CAVE, VA., . MADISON SPRINGS, GA., JIAMMOTH CAVE, KY., . . . MITCHELL'S PEAK, N. C., . MONADNOCK MOUNTAIN, MONTAUK POINT, N. Y., MONTMORENCI FALLS, CANADA, MONTREAL, .... . . MOUNT EVERETT, MS., MOUNT HOLYOKE, MS., . Patre 643 643 643 644 644 644 644 645 645 645 645 645 645 645 645 645 646 646 646 646 646 646 646 646 647 647 647 648 648 648 648 648 649 649 649 649 649 649 649 649 649 6511 652 652 653 652 652 653 654 MOUNT HOPE, R. I., MOUNT VERNON, VA., .... NAIIANT, MS., NANTASKET BEACH, 319., . . . NATURAL BRIDGE, VA., .... NEW LEBANON SPRINGS, N. Y., . NEWPORT, R. I., . . ... NIAGARA FALLS, NICOJACK CAVE, GA., . . . . OLD MAN OF THE MOUNTAIN, N. H., OLD ORCHARD BEACH, ME., ONONDAGA SALT SPRINGS, N. Y., PASSAIC FALLS, N. J., . . . . PHILLIPS'S POINT, MS., PICTURED ROCK, LAKE SUPERIOR. . PINE ORCHARD, N. Y., : PLUM ISLAND, MS., PLEASANT MOUNTAIN, ME., PLYMOUTH ROCK, MS., .... QUEBEC, Page 655 . 655 656 . 656 656 . 656 657 . 659 659 . 659 660 . 660 660 RED SULPHUR SPRINGS, VA., . . RICHFIELD SPRINGS, N. Y., ROAN MOUNTAIN, N. C., .... ROCKAWAY BEACH, LONG ISLAND, N. RYE BEACH, N. H., .... SACHEM'S HEAD, CT., .... SAGUENAY RIVER, CANADA, . ST. ANTHONY'S FALLS, .... SALISBURY BEACH, MS., . . SALT SULPHUR SPRINGS, VA., . SARATOGA SPRINGS, N. Y., SAYBROOK POINT, CT., .... SCHOOLEY'S MOUNTAIN, N. J., SHARON SPRINGS, N. Y., PIASCONSET, MS., SQUANTUM, MS., STAFFORD SPRINGS, CT., . SWEET SPRINGS, VA., .... TINTON FALLS, N. J., . . . . TRENTON FALLS, N. Y., .... WACHUSET MOUNTAIN, MS., . . WARM SPRINGS, VA., .... WARM SPRINGS, N. C., . WEIR'S CAVE, VA., .... WELLS BEACH, ME., . . . , WHITE MOUNTAINS, N. H., . WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS, VA., . WHEELING SUSPENSION BRIDGE, VA., WINNIPISEOGEE LAKE, N. II., . 660 . 660 G61 . 661 . 665 . 666 667 . 667 Y., 667 667 . 667 667 . 669 669 671 671 671 671 671 672 672 672 672 673 673 673 673 673 673 678 679 679 INTRODUCTION; COMPRISING A GENERAL VIEW OF THE UNITED STATES. ON the subject of the UNITED STATES OF AMERICA it is not easy to write or to feel with calmness. Such and so great are the interests involved, that it requires no little control of the mind to maintain a freedom from enthusiasm in contemplating the rapid growth and de- velopment of these states, and the field of inquiry and effort which they display. The following work professes to exhibit in detail the several parts, even to the most minute, of this now vast body, in a view at once geographical, civil or political, and moral or religious. It presents the natural features and the various peculiarities of the widely-extended domains, which, by the divine Providence, working its own wonders by various means, have been united into ne nation, and placed under one form of government. This government is, indeed, of diversified application, in respect to its subjects or constituents, gathered from almost every people, and in the employment of its energies, as every government must be. Yet its princi- ples and design are simple, and open to the inspection of all. The establishment of its prin- ciples has cost ages of human thought, labor, and suffering. Its design, both professedly and practically, is THE PUBLIC GOOD. That such is the character of the government providentially established in these states is clear, from the fact that it has originated from the people, and is virtually managed by them- selves. They have modified it as the circumstances attending its operation have appeared to them to require ; and their own experience of its good or ill effects has decided both their judgment and actions concerning it. It admits not of the doctrine of " millions made for one," but cherishes the grand idea of reaching, with paternal and salutary attention, the masses of men and their wants. Hence it has opened, expressly, an asylum for all of the human race who are honorably seeking the enjoyment of that prosperity and influence with which GOD is ready to endow his moral, accountable creatures on earth, and are willing to bear the labor and sustain the responsibility that are necessary to secure them. 10 UNITED STATES. This very circumstance, combining with the condition in various respects of other countries has made the North American states a subject of curiosity abroad, and has attracted to them very many colonists from countries of an older civilization. And it deserves the attentive curiosity of those also who are in possession of its benefits, and who, as we trust, are becoming more sensible of their value ; for it would argue great ingratitude, or inability to appreciate human privileges and blessings, should those which are the favored lot of the United States be overlooked or disregarded. It will not, then, be amiss, in this place, to take a general and extended but rapid prospect of the country, in regard to its boundaries, divisions, and geography, including soil, climate, rivers, mountains, lakes ; and to delineate, though briefly, the features of its history, progress, and present state, in an agricultural, commercial, civil, literary, and religious point of view. At the period, therefore, when this volume issues, the United States of North America are thirty-one in number, enjoying each a separate local government, of its own choice and forma- tion; and to these are added six territories, so denominated, whose government emanates from the supreme authority of the nation or republic, until they also shall have acquired a numerical population sufficient to establish a claim to become, by due form of law, sovereign states. But before entering further on the exhibition of the political institutions of the country, it is proper to dwell on its natural features and boundaries. The British possessions of New Britain, Upper and Lower Canada, with the province of New Brunswick, form the north and north-east boundary, partially modified, since the peace of 1783, by new treaties.* On the north-west, Russia has indeed a territory upon this continent ; and Greenland, on the opposite side of it, but separated from it, belongs to Denmark ; yet neither reaches the United States' boundary. British territory alone is conterminous with it, except in its direction through the lakes and a portion of the River St Lawrence, of both which it keeps the centre. On the east is the Atlantic Ocean, which, with the Gulf Stream at no great distance, washes the shore from the southern extremity of Florida to the extreme eastern coast of Maine. On the south is the Gulf of Mexico, as far as to the mouth of the Rio Bravo del Norte, which constitutes the limit between the republic of Mexico and the United States in that quarter, as far as to the 32d degree of north latitude, whence it takes a western course until it strikes a branch of the River Gila, which it follows to its entrance into the Rio Colorado, at the head of the Gulf of California. Thence it crosses over Southern California to the Pacific Ocean, at a point ten miles south of San Diego. This portion of boundary is under actual survey and definitive settlement, by commissioners chosen by each power mutually. The western boundary is the vast Pacific Ocean, from latitude 32 29' 30" to 49 north, and the Straits of Juan de Fuca ; opening an almost illimitable career to navigation, enterprise, and skill in the prospective commerce of the country a commerce that must, in not a long time, extend to all those Asiatic regions which from time immemorial have excited the cupid- ity of Europe. The territory embraced within these limits embodies an area of perhaps 3,250,000 square miles. In this view, it ranks as the fifth of the great territorial powers of the earth ; Russia being, since the disruption of the Spanish dependencies from the mother country, first in the list, Great Britain next, then China, and afterwards Brazil.f Such an extent in latitude must stretch, of course, through very different climates : so that nearly every variety of temperature, and of animal, vegetable, and mineral productions, will be included. And these have actually been found, not, indeed, in all respects similar to those of Europe and Asia, but for by far the greater number. * The last of which was negotiated by Hon. Daniel Webster, as secretary of state, and Lord Ashbur- ton, as commissioner on the part of England, and ratified November 10, 1842. t Spain once possessed territories containing, by estimation, 9,332,000 square miles. Russia has 7,565,000 ; England, 6,508,000 ; China, 5,200,000 ; and Brazil, 3,390,000. INTRODUCTION. 11 The face of the country is also much diversified. Long ranges of mountains extend on each side of the great central basin or valley. That which marks the western part most prominently is a continuation of the Cordilleras of the Andes of South America, although receding rather more from the western coast. Their direction is northward, turning a little to the west, as the coast runs, and distant from it, in some parts, nearly 600 miles. On the eastern side, the several ranges, called in general Alleghany, and branching into the Green Mountains on the north-east, take the direction of the coast, from which they are generally distant about 250 miles. The space between these two vast ranges of mountains is watered by the majestic Mississippi, appropriately denominated, in a style peculiarly Oriental, the " Father of Waters," and its large tributaries tributaries, the Missouri especially, equalling or surpassing in length of course and body of water most of the great rivers of the eastern continent With the British possessions in North America the United States share the magnificent provision which the GOD of nature has made of the vast reservoirs of fresh water in the chain of lakes that find their outlet at the Falls of Niagara and River of St. Lawrence. And it is a circumstance peculiarly worthy of notice, that, while the waters of Lake Superior are ele- vated 600 feet above the tide-waters of the Atlantic, so that a power of immense force is kept in reserve for all future uses, the depth is such, that, should the rocks at the great falls be worn entirely away, as they are known to have receded already several miles, neither that lake? nor Lakes Huron, Michigan, and Erie would be drained ; and Ontario is the deepest of them all. Considering the extent of country, its soil may be accounted generally fertile An exception is found to this estimate in the territory which lies north of the new State of Texas, and west of Arkansas and part of Missouri. This has been emphatically denoted as the American Desert. On the eastern side of it are located the remnants of several tribes of the original inhabitants, who have left their ancestral abodes east of the Mississippi, and are congregated in a rather close proximity, requiring the keen oversight of the American government, as well as its paternal care and providence. No reflecting person can examine the map of our territory without perceiving the unusual facilities of river communication enjoyed by all parts of it. This circumstance is wonderfully promotive of internal commerce, as well as of fertility in the products of the field and forest, the orchard and the garden. True it is that occasional droughts are felt, but the extent of such calamities has not been great, nor their continuance long ; and often what is denied to one portion is bestowed on another, " that there may be equality," and, at the same time, the intercourse of friendly trade. Sugar is produced in the lower parts of Louisiana, to a very considerable extent, from the cane plant, which might, doubtless, be cultivated more than it is in Florida, Alabama, and Mississippi, as well as in Texas. But the cotton fields have occupied the planter, and yielded generally a sure reward. Occasional frosts, however, are experienced all along the southern borders, rendering the cultivation of tropical productions too precarious for a dependence on them. This has been the case with the orange, fig, and lemon, while, of late, experiments have been made even farther north, on the introduction of the tea plant, with promising results. The Middle States appear to be the favorite region of the grape ; and of this rich and whole- some fruit no small quantity of wine is already manufactured along the banks of the Ohio. The peach is cultivated extensively in New Jersey, especially, but flourishes, with the grape, in the neighboring states, and generally in that parallel of latitude. But we must refer to the Gazetteer itself, in the several articles, for the various particulars of this nature ; remarking, only, that the maize, or Indian corn, one of the indispensable articles of American food, wheat, a most important staple, rye, barley, oats, rice, of its different varieties, the diet of so large a portion of mankind in Southern Asia, overspread the United States, in their respectively adapted parts, with ample provision for the population, even were it many times increased. And these necessary productions for the continuance of human life must long form the reliable articles of export and trade. Tobacco, too, and ardent spirits have been, and still are, notwithstanding all that has been said and written to dissuade men from the habitual use of them, a not inconsiderable item of commerce. 12 UNITED STATES. The American forests were the wonder of the early discoverers. Such a stately growth had been reached by the noble oaks, chestnuts, magnolias, cotton-trees, elms, maples, and, above all, the tall, straight pines, as rendered calculation almost wild in its anticipations of profit What in the old countries had been the result of careful cultivation appeared here in all the unbounded luxuriance of nature, rendering the scenery picturesque often, and beautiful in the extreme, although more generally overburdened, tangled, and obstructed, and demand- ing the judicious hand of skill and taste. Much remains, in some parts of the country, in its original state still ; although the rapid diminution effected by steaming excites not unfrequently an anxious fear, that our posterity may, if systematic attentions do not prevent, inherit a denuded patrimony, abandoned, like many portions of the " Old World," to sterility. But here a provision meets us which seems to reassure our hope. The vast coal-beds which are wrought now to so great an extent and profit in Pennsylvania, and in several other states, " cropping out " along the navigable rivers of the west, will yield fuel, either in the bituminous form, or in the hard anthracite, which, it may be hoped, will prove a preservative of much forest scenery and highway shade. The substitution of coals for wood is rapidly advancing. With respect to mineral wealth, it had been supposed until recently that little of the more precious metals would be found within the regions assigned to these states. But a sudden Durst of what is almost universally regarded as good fortune surprises us in the acquisition of California. Its treasures of gold have surpassed all previous calculation, although not every hunter of it has been gratified with success. Millions have been gained, and will be brought into circulation, notwithstanding sickness, vice, and misery have often been coparceners in the enterprise. A new empire is founded, also, notwithstanding an almost incalculable expenditure of human life has been sustained to effect it. And we may hope, that; by the overruling hand which " educes good from partial evil," benefits to the human family will eventually be realized, though many individuals be sacrificed and lost Lead and copper had long been mined to much advantage before this unexpected discovery. And their abundance was a subject of gratulation, previous to the working of the copious supply of copper near Lake Superior, and of lead at Galena. Silver has been of rather rare occurrence, although gold has been obtained among the Alleghany ranges, and east of them ; and the indefatigable exertions of Dr. C. T. JACKSON have even discovered tin. Iron, pro- verbially the most useful of all the metals, abounds almost every where. While dwelling on these treasures of the earth, it should not be forgotten that great progress has been made in turning to profit many of the rocks which in some parts of the country are abundant, but of which other parts are destitute. Thus New Hampshire and Massachusetts send their granite to Georgia and Louisiana. The abundance of limestone in the north compensates the want elsewhere ; and while in Florida, and Georgia, and Alabama, the live-oak has been felled, by dwellers of Maine, to furnish timber for their ship-yards, the mortar made of the lime from Thomaston has been cementing the buildings of the south the abundance of one furnishing the other a needed supply, and that alternately and mutually. Beautiful marbles also have been wrought in quarries of different kinds, from the famous verd antique to the rival of the Parian for whiteness and uniformity of texture, giving to statuaries and architects the materials from which the most splendid trophies of art may be elicited. To this may be added the red sandstone of Connecticut, the appearance of which, in various buildings, has been greeted with much favor. Before the introduction of the " Quincy granite," this material was the most commonly wrought stone of the market. Slate is also obtainable, and begins to be employed, and may soon equal the productions of ancient Wales, which, however, are still imported largely. Of native animals but little is said at the present day, except in respect of the frontier settlements, and the employments of professed hunters who frequent the forests. Immense wealth has in time past been amassed from the furs, for which several species are sought and killed. Indians complain of the diminution of buffaloes, which heretofore had formed no small portion of their dependence ; and it is unquestionable that the once abundant supply has been wasted in very many instances, in which their 'hides only have been the objects of INTRODUCTION. 13 cupidity, their carcasses being left to birds of prey. The moose has almost disappeared, as also the wild deer, which once abounded. Bears are not common, yet the grisly bear, that dreaded monarch of the forest, is met in California still. The cougar, the catamount, members of the same family, wildcat, lynx, and wolf have in many parts been troublesome, but are now only occasionally caught, shot, or seen. As we do not by any means profess to give a complete catalogue of quadrupeds, so neither can we of birds and fishes, which yet are abundant. The wild pigeons of the west are still celebrated for their multitudinous flocks, and the race of wild turkeys is not extinct. Birds of prey are not wanting, from the stately and powerful bald eagle to the various species of the hawk ; and all the domestic fowls have accompanied the migrations of the European colonists, as well as all the domestic quadrupeds. No small amount of provisions drawn from the pasture enters into commerce ; and more especially of late years, and since the distressing famine in Ireland. Beef has long been fur- nished to the West Indies ; and with it exported hams, lard, and cheese are admitted into the British islands. At the same time the rearing of sheep is regarded with greater favor, and that especially since the introduction of the Merino breed, and the consequent increase of woollen factories. Cattle, horses, asses, and mules are often shipped to the West India islands as live stock. From the first knowledge of the Atlantic coast, the fisheries were accounted important. France and England at an early period were sensible of their value, and jealous in securing them. And even to this day, notwithstanding the former power has lost its hold on every portion of the northern continent, the two islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon are retained by treaty, in order to accommodate her fishermen, who spread on them their " flakes." With respect to the productiveness of this source of human support and governmental revenue, no part of the United States has experienced it more, and thriven more from it, than New Eng- land, through its hardy fishermen. From the earliest periods, their occupation has been one of the first necessity and greatest profit, if we take into view its various branches, and include in them the whale fishery. But in pursuit of that employment, not the Atlantic alone bounds their enterprising industry. The bold and hazardous occupation is followed in every ocean, sea, or strait where its subjects are to be met, and the whalers of America are among the most daring, courageous, and expert of men. The land, the ocean, and the air combine, then, to furnish out a space in which to develop the genius, enterprise, and application of the rapidly increasing population of these states. For the exercise of every talent a field is not wanting,; and the exertion of every faculty may be flattered with hope of success. Having made these remarks, which, of course, must be superficial and brief, as we have no room for enlargement here, and must refer for special and particular information to the body of the work itself, in its several and distinct articles, we would, with equal brevity, dwell for a little time on some of the historical events which concern the settlement, growth, and pros- perity of the states themselves. Inquiries respecting the primeval inhabitants, important as they may be in the investigations we make for ascertaining the history of MAN, under all the varieties of existence in which he appears, can be indulged in but sparingly here. Still, since the present inhabitants have entered on the places of their predecessors, some interest must attach to the character and circumstances of those who have passed away ; and it would seem illiberal and unkind to be wholly silent respecting them, and would argue an unbecoming disregard to the claims of common humanity. Hence the subject has occupied no small attention from all our historians. But the little progress among them of what we term civilization, or rather, perhaps, their distance from the civilization which prevails with us, has rendered the cases so dissimilar, that it were almost invidious to overlook their estimate of character, and pride ourselves on our own. They had their own manners, and habits, and judgments ; and although with a standard different from ours, it is evident they were not without some estimate of character. Talents they had, but without means of cultivation. A natural eloquence they could exercise, and 14 UNITED STATES. form sagacious counsels. But their want of a sure method of perpetuating their acquisitions, by a careful transmission of them, rendered them but transitory. Simple facts alone would be matters of remembrance, and even these would be recollected but imperfectly. Reasonings would be almost as evanescent as the times and occasions of them. The preservation of a continuity of thought, plan, and effort, so as to form national character, is the result of a liter- ature that embodies the labors of the human mind. It is not wonderful, then, that so little remains to enable us to ascertain the distinguishing traits of Indian character and life. Our histories fail to do justice to the subject, doubtless ; for they were written by parties unfavorably prepossessed, and in but few instances by the cultivated talent of natives. Nevertheless, here and there, in the course of more than three centuries, an example is found. The mounds and fortifications discovered at the west, and having some relation to monu- ments remaining in Mexico and Peru, indicate more of industry and talent than has at least been exercised by our Indians since Europeans landed on these shores. And perhaps their very presence hastened the deterioration, from a despair of resisting with success, or even maintaining their own position, much less of surpassing those who, in too many instances, became oppressors rather than aids, robbers more than friends. These remarks, however, will, it is acknowledged, apply more to the southern than the northern part of the American continent more to the Spaniards than the English. But even in regard to the English, although possessed of a purer faith, and prompted, in most cases, by higher motives, yet, with comparatively few though honorable exceptions, too little attention has been paid to their welfare, too little to their instruction and training for usefulness, and national establishment and prosperity. True, it was much to demand this of human nature, selfish as it is ; and therefore the names of ELIOT, and MAYHEW, and GOOKIN, and PENN, and BRAIN- ERD, and BENEZET, and of a catalogue of worthies, will be celebrated with high and growing regard. As no amalgamation of the races took place, the Indians have, for the greater part, declined. They are mostly removed from their ancient seats, and inhabit a frontier country, where they can enjoy, at least for a time, the privileges of the chase. Some, indeed, have abandoned the life of the hunter, and become agriculturists ; and, in consequence of the per- severing, self-denying labor of devoted missionaries, not a few have become, by the divine blessing, humble and devout Christians. The Cherokees, who have now an alphabet of their own, the Choctaws, Mohegans, a mere remnant, however, and a few Creeks, Mohawks, Oneidas, Ojibways, and Dakotas have thus been trained to a degree of Christian civilization ; and the work is still advancing, but the discouragements are great. What is to be the issue time alone can develop. As respects the European immigration, a new order of things dawned at its outset ; and though the progress was slow at first, laborious, and often interrupted, yet it has advanced to a day of no little splendor. Let us trace the outlines. Virginia may, in some respects, be permitted to take the lead ; for, although both France and Spain had preceded England in efforts to colonize portions of North America, the colonies of each of them were beyond the boundaries which limited the thirteen states of the original Union ; Canada retaining her connection with England, and Florida becoming a territory of the United States only in the year 1819, and a state in 1845. Virginia has, therefore, been called 44 the Old Dominion," dating her first effective European settlement from 1607. That very year, indeed, was marked by an attempt to settle an English colony at the mouth of the Kennebec, the intended province then bearing the name of Sagadehoc. But it was broken up the ensuing spring ; and thirteen years passed away before the next settlement was made, in what had been called New England, as early as 1614.* This, happily, became permanent. Still, the coast had been frequented for purposes of the fishery, and to effect also the expul- sion of the French from Acadia, within the bounds of which debatable country they had formed several settlements, and recovered, and, to a later period, retained them, greatly to the * See Life of Captain John Smith, the early hero of Virginia. Bclknap's Biog. v. i. p. 306. INTRODUCTION. 15 annoyance of the English settlers. But the colonization of Virginia, though attended with many discouragements and disappointments, on which our space permits us not to dwell, ad- vanced, and became a safeguard to the next successful band of adventurers. This band, to whichf we have before alluded, was the expatriated church of ROBINSON, who established themselves at Plymouth, and are familiarly and honorably known as " the Pilgrims of Leyden," or " the Pilgrim Fathers of New England." Their errand hither was mainly for religious peace and prosperity, and it was religiously conducted ; nor is it too much to say, that, in the good providence of God, then* efforts, character, and success have given a deeply- interesting tone to the history and features of their adopted country, and render their memory respected by every true philanthropist. But on their individual or special history we have no room here to dwell. Their immigration was in 1620. A few years after, a settlement was commenced at Naumkeag, in the Bay of Massachusetts, and called Salem. Then followed an establishment on the north side of the river which enters the bottom of the bay, and, in compliment to the king of England then on the throne, took the name of Charlestown. The settlement of Boston succeeded, in 1630, under WINTHROP, JOHNSON, and their associates; and now the way was opened to thousands of their country- men, and the principles agreed upon, on which the colony might live, thrive, and flourish. Encouraged by such instances of success, there had been, in the mean while, several Eng- lish adventurers who formed settlements for trading, fishing, and exploring the country, along the whole coast of New England ; and the colonies of New Hampshire, of Connecticut, and New Haven, separate at first, but afterwards blended, Rhode Island and the Plantation of Providence, forming a retreat for persecuted religionists, Laconia, Gorgeana, and Sagadehoc, included afterwards in Maine, gradually burst into being. Before the middle of the seven- teenth century they had become politically organized as distinct governments, and, in 1643, four of them formed a confederation, the type and emblem of a future important fact, which, in little more than a century later, created a new NATION. The Dutch also, as a great naval power, and rival, in that respect, of England and France, had not been idle, but, as early as 1609, employed an Englishman, HENRY HUDSON, who dis- covered the noble river that bears his name, and penetrated it as far as where Albany now stands, preparing the way for the formation of the " Empire State " of New York. The early result was not, indeed, a promise of harmony in regard to the growth and happiness of the little colonies to the eastward of Manhattan or New Netherlands. Jealousies arose on both sides, and bickerings and difficulties with the natives, which were not fully quieted until English authority became paramount, and New York ceased to be controlled by any other European power. The settlements of New Jersey and Maryland, of Delaware, and, at length, of Pennsylvania, extended the English influence along the coast between Virginia on the south, and New England to the north and east. For the settlement of Swedes, in the neighborhood of Cape Henlopen, yielded, in not a long time, to the prowess of the Dutch, and, with them, became at last subject to the British crown. Nor did Virginia long remain the southern boundary of British dominion. North and South Carolina were settled in the reign of CHARLES II., and in 1732 the foundation was laid for the State of Georgia.* These were the thirteen original states recognized at the period of the American revolution. But, considering how unanimous they became in that grand scene of the trial of principle, it is curious to notice how diversified were the characters of the first settlers of them, and on what principles they were severally chartered. JAMES I. of England, who gave the earliest of these charters, was bigoted, arbitrary, and jealous of his~~prerogative. Royal blood was, with him, of different composition from that which runs in the veins of ordinary mortals. And he was ready to visit with pains and penalties the presumption of ROLFE, one of his subjects, who had dared, without his leave, to ally himself with even an Indian princess, in the person * See these several states, under their names, respectively, in the Gazetteer. 16 UNITED STATES. of POCAHONTAS, daughter of POWHATAN. Such, too, was the known character of his son and grandsons who succeeded him. And it was only under CROMWELL, and at the tune of the revolution in England, that popular rights were regarded with any real sympathy. Hence, in part, at least, this observable diversity. Some also of the charters, like those, for instance, of Pennsylvania and Maryland, were bestowed on court favorites, as gratuities for services rendered or anticipated. In others, as in those of the Carolinas, granted to noblemen principally, a provision was made in the con- stitution framed for them by the profound metaphysician LOCKE, for ranks of hereditary nobles a provision which, though happily never carried into effect in any one province or colony, exhibits one of the embarrassments that, but for some overruling power, must have obstructed the course of the subsequent revolution, and establishment of a republican form of government. But the tendency towards a prevalence of the principles of democracy or republicanism is, in one circumstance, more distinctly traceable than in any other. It is in the absence of the ultimately controlling power. This, from the very necessity of the case, threw the exercise of a certain degree of authority on the people themselves, either in their primary assemblies, where each one must feel his own consequence, or in those of their representatives, immediate or remote. Accustomed thus to a degree of self-government, and unawed by the splendor of the present majesty of power, unused therefore to the servility of courtiers, the colonists exer- cised a degree of sovereignty at an early period. This varied, indeed, as we have seen, in the different colonies ; but, in process of time, a portion of liberty pervaded all. The removal to America of the charter of Massachusetts was no short step towards the exercise of the spirit of 1776. India is governed in London by the honorable company seated there, of whom the governor general is but the agent, and to whom he is accountable. But were the company seated in India, how long could loyalty to the crown of Great Britain be cherished ? It cannot, then, appear strange that a degree of jealousy should be felt in the mother country in relation to the exercise of power on the part of the colonies. It was this which led to the mission of RANDOLPH under CHARLES II., and ripened the popular fury against ANDROS in the reign of his misguided brother. Nor this alone ; for the exhibition of spirit and ability to conduct important warlike enterprises, which was made in 1745 in the successful attack on Louisburg, familiarly called the Dunkirk or Gibraltar of America, and deemed impregnable, aroused at court the anxious fear that greater efforts would soon become practicable, if the exercise of power- were not speedily checked. To this idea we may trace the succession of measures which prepared the way for the American revolution. It would be a pleasing task to dwell here on the endeared memory of many a colonial worthy, and to embalm the virtues of patriots not a few, though filling a humble sphere ; but it is impracticable. Nor can we follow the traces of those stirring events which distinguished the vastly disproportionate struggle between the colonies and the powerful mother country, then at the height of her supremacy on the sea. Warriors were nurtured by the contests with the French of Canada. Minds were enlarged by the project of a confederacy to resist them made in 1754. In this it was intended so to unite the several colonies along the Atlantic border, that they might be able to defeat the sagacious policy of France in extending her posts from Canada to Louisiana, and securing the inland, central regions to herself, that she might fall on the maritime and subdue them at her convenience. One of the most affecting though simple devices of the Puritans appears in the arms and motto adopted by the State of Connecticut. It exhibits the vine fastened and trained for bearing to its upright stake, and the assertion, " He who transplanted will sustain it." * This was the confidence of the pious founders of not a few colonies on this side the Atlantic. They trusted in GOD. And his providence can, without the aid of an unmanly superstition, be distinctly traced in the history of the United States. The spirit of his truth is marked, from generation to generation, on the minds, and consciences, and lives of men preparing for the * " Qui transtulit sustinet." INTRODUCTION. 17 exercise of freedom in its widest practicable extent and forms. If even HUME was compelled to give his meed of praise to the Puritans for the elements of true liberty ingrafted on the British stock by the struggles of the Commonwealth, Americans may well trace to the posses- sion and free use of the Bible their more perfected political developments. Nay, it has been said, and that recently, with equal truth and eloquence, " Who shall write the history of modern civilization without tracking the course of the divine Word ? To the homes of our fathers it brought the best lessons of experience and the sturdiest virtues of religion. We need not say much of the good seed of the Word that came with the people of the Mayflower and the Arbella, nor will our common sense or charity allow us to limit the blessing to any State in the Union. The Bible came with the Huguenots of Carolina, the Reformed Dutch of Man- hattan, the Friends of Pennsylvania, the Churchmen of Virginia, the Methodists of Georgia, as well as the Puritans of Massachusetts. Who shall say what that book has done for the nation ? " Look, then, at the history of the United States. It deserves to be contemplated with serious attention as a development of the august providence of GOD, who uses the passions and pur- suits of men for the accomplishment of his own wise and benevolent designs. The disco'very of the new continent occurs at a period of the world when the human mind, in Europe at least, has been roused to uncommon activity, and has put forth its greatest vigor. The reformation resuscitates the power of the Bible, and persecution^ tests its worth. Spain conquers and possesses the southern part of the continent, seeking every where to assuage her insatiate craving for gold. She passes by the northern half, because it is not discovered there, and leaves to France and England a country she knows not how to value. France colonizes the least inviting part of this vast field, on which England begins to display a rival power. Com- mercial enterprise is roused, but commercial enterprise signally fails. Religious principle conducts a perilous effort, and success, after much hardship and suffering, crowns it. This encourages adventure, and, step by step, the work advances. Colonies, scattered along the Atlantic border, like those of ancient Greece on the shores of Asia,* multiply and prosper. But, unlike them, these colonies discover that their interests are similar, become united, and are led to form one government, which exhibits to the world a new nation. Every step of this progress is interesting to the statesman, the philanthropist, and the Chris- tian. The first will study it as developing the germ of human greatness ; the next will contemplate it as opening an asylum for suffering humanity, a field for .honest labor, with hopeful promise of reward ; but the last will view it with grateful and adoring thoughts of the wonder-working power of GOD. The close of the revolutionary struggle during which had been exhibited many of the virtues that adorn and exalt human nature, although in multitudes of instances the contamina- tion of the unfixed and loose opinions and manners that prevail in camps affected our coun- trymen, and made an awful inroad on the simplicity of colonial habits brought with it a view and keen perception of difficulties and embarrassments which had hardly been anticipated. While the struggle itself endured, the event was doubtful, and hope and fear alternately prevailed. But when the pressure of events from abroad had diminished, and the feelings and views generated by the scenes of home gained sway, room was afforded for a new play of the passions, and perils of a new character arose. And hence it has been remarked by a states- man, whose talents and power of thought and language have been amply acknowledged in our own country and in Europe,f that no period of American history deserves the profound study of our young men more than that which intervened between the peace of 1783 and the establishment of the federal government in 1789. The reason of this remark must appear on reflecting that, when the independence of the country had been achieved by labors, self-denial, and sacrifices of property, time, talents, and * A comparison suggested by Heeren. Several of these colonies had, indeed, a confederation, that of the Ionian cities, but it neither continued long nor extended far. f It seems hardly necessary here to name the Hon. Daniel Webster. 3 18 UNITED STATES. life, of which in this day we can form no adequate conception, there were required the virtues of self-command, candor, and devotion to the public welfare. Without these, it must be clear that freedom from one class of evils might have been effected only to incur new troubles and difficulties from another. The perils of anarchy and of civil war, and of the reckless personal ambition of daring chieftains, were all to be dreaded. With these perils the provinces of South America and Mexico were necessitated to contend when they burst away more recently from the dominion of Spain ; nor have the contest and its perils ceased with them even yet But, most happily for us and the world, its Sovereign Ruler had provided for the emer- gency in raising up a distinguished individual, of whom, without unduly exalting man, we may admit, with truth, that he was " first in war, first in peace, and first in the hearts of his countrymen." WASHINGTON had been called to the command of her armies by his country in her day of danger. He had conducted the arduous struggle to its close, with a discretion, a moral as well as natural courage, and a dignity of character which left him without a rival. And perhaps in none of the favors of divine Providence bestowed on the country and they have been numerous and great can we find what should be regarded as more peculiarly deserving commemoration than this. It is admitted by all nations who become acquainted with the facts, as well as by our own. An English reviewer, while displaying a series of polit- ical schemes, remarked, that " however they might have appeared and been successful in other times, they could not bear the light of the age of WASHINGTON." * His sterling worth, long tried and extensively approved, the disinterestedness of his behavior and moral integrity in all respects, rendered it safe, in the estimation of the people at large, to invest him Avith the supreme power of the republic. To this elevation no claim of royal descent was produced ; although this might have been pleaded with equal truth as for General MONK, the rival, in one sense, and yet the restorer of CHARLES II. And it has been said that eur minister in France received an offer from a Norman nobleman, who stated his family to be as ancient and respectable as that of WILLIAM the Conqueror. The offer was made on the supposition that of course the country would want, and must have a king, when it should be- come independent. GEORGE III. is stated to have remarked to our countryman WEST that he supposed the Americans would strive to make General WASHINGTON their king, instead of himself. One of the most remarkable circumstances in reference to the American population, and the providence of GOD overruling and ordering affairs for a future benefit, is seen in this, that hereditary titles of nobility have been, from the first, unusual among us, to say the least. None, of course, could have originated here ; and although noblemen dwelt with us as gov- ernors, occasional sojourners, and even with their own families about them, yet they we r e never American noblemen, entitled as such to a seat in the House of Lords. It was bold language for the late M. SISMONDI to employ, when he said that revolutions for the advancement of liberty had not been rare, but that in France the principle on which they are sought, and which he supposed to be a melioration of the condition of the people, had been lost sight of, from the circumstance that they had ever placed some prince in power. This, of course, was written before the pretensions of Louis NAPOLEON BONAPARTE, almost invariably called a prince, were developed. If LAFAYETTE, in 1830, had been placed at the head of a republic, or, in 1848, some individual without a claim to royal descent or regal or imperial relationship, might not stability have been bestowed on those institutions which now seem only made to be overturned ? And is it not strange, that, while in theory all titles arc abolished, the French delight still in giving their rulers princely and noble titles ? No, it may be said, it is not strange, for the French people are not prepared for republican govern- ment. It is questionable if they can be so before the present generation passes away. Indeed, human nature must be greatly changed, if the hearts of men in America be not affected, as elsewhere, with the love of distinction. They are so affected ; but the democratic tendency which has been stamped on our institutions is ever found a counteracting force. * Aikin's British Review, about 1810. INTKODUCTION. 19 Family cliques are cultivated, exclusiveness in the associations of intimacy is cherished, wealthy matches coveted and sought out, and effected even among very near relatives, to secure riches and influence ; but still the general process is of a levelling character, after all. The equal division of estates in families, and the rapid growth of families themselves, assist it ; and, in very many instances, the ambitious hope of rearing and establishing aristocratic distinctions is frustrated and destroyed. At such a consummation we ought not, perhaps, so far as individual improvement is concerned, and the formation of a character of virtuous distinction and influence, to rejoice ; nevertheless, the problem to be wrought out in America appears to be of wider concernment to the human race than the aggrandizement of family relationship. In the old republics of Venice, Switzerland, and Holland, things were vastly different. In them an aristocracy was avowed, established, and rendered paramount and flourishing. The American problem refers to the possibly Utopian idea of THE BROTHERHOOD OF MANKIND ; and probably no nation A7as ever placed in circumstances calculated more happily to realize this object. A new motive for the cultivation of the virtues which our fondest partiality ascribes to our best patriots, and most excellent citizens and countrymen, arises from the fact, that at the present eventful crisis of affairs in Europe, in which the experience and character of these states are studied, and our institutions alluded to, as an exemplification of the results of civic freedom, our example may be of the highest moral tendency. It may obtain an influence for the good of large and suffering portions of mankind, that shall be effective of " glory to GOD in the highest, and on earth peace, good will toward men." With respect to the fears entertained from the overwhelming torrent of uneducated, and vicious, and pauper foreigners poured upon our shores, in a manner so unprecedented, we may feel less alarm if our citizens will but preserve, and, as circumstances require, augment the advantages of early education now enjoyed, and see that the young immigrants improve them.* This will lay the axe to the root of all growing corruption. Adults may prove incorrigible, and require the animadversion of wholesome law. Our prisons can now instruct and compel them to labor for the profit of the public ; but THE EDUCATION OF THE YOUNG, conducted on principles of sound morals and sincere piety, will prove the sure foun- dation of usefulness, respectability, and prosperity. Such has it ever been found, and ever will be. To return to our political state : a comparison of our highest executive officers with others of such grade abroad elicits hope. While, for instance, the present ruler of France is openly charged with a design of perpetuating his powers, and altering the very constitution of the coun- try for that end, we have never had a public case, whatever may have transpired privately, in which a president of the United States was found ambitiously plotting for the perpetuation or continuance of his power. Those who have filled this station have returned successively to private life, or, as in two illustrious instances,! consented to serve the public in a lower but important position. Thanks are due to GOD for this apparent degree of civic purity of char- acter. And we should rejoice in that state of public sentiment which would not only render the reverse of this odious to the country, but also effectually defeat the object aimed at. The condition of the country at the close of the revolutionary war, and which had been but partially benefited by the subsequent confederation, assumed a new life under the government of the FATHER OF HIS COUNTRY. That government, after it had been exercised for the constitutional period, that is, for four years, from 1789 to 1793, was again offered by the public * " Individuals, as such, have no more claim upon the public for their education than for their board and clothing." But "the first principles of popular government require that the means of education should as far as possible be equally within the reach of the whole population. This can be effected in no other way than by a system of education supported by the public. The same great motive of public policy requires that the schools should be of a very superior order, so that every child may receive not merely an education, but an excellent education." Gov. EVERETT. t Those of Washington and (more especially) John Quincy Adams. 20 UNITED STATES. voice to its distinguished heacl, and again accepted ; but not for a third period, although by many greatly desired. It had been only by the exercise of qualities precisely adapted to the emergencies which required them, that WASHINGTON had been so successful. His personal courage was un- questionable. His firmness and ' moderation were even constitutional, habitual, and uniform. He sincerely loved his country, and devoted himself to its interests in a manner perhaps un- precedented. The people at large appreciated his character, and had entire confidence in his integrity ; and it was only prejudice or ignorance, or the reckless violence of party spirit, eagerly bent on its object, and unscrupulous as to the methods of attaining it, which opposed and thwarted his well-considered measures, gave trouble to his impartial government, and vilified his person. In fact, in the great points of view under which we are to consider this so justly celebrated man, so remarkably prepared in the providence of God for the stations he was called succes- sively to fill, it will be proper to notice, First, the contest for freedom, or the revolution. And in this we see a people widely scattered, comparatively poor, living under different laws, although dependent on the same crown, having rivalries, jealousies, antipathies of their own, and yet necessitated, from the very nature of the case, to act together. He was the instrument of thus connecting them, by the weight of his own character, and the wisdom and energy of his conduct, and the revolution was achieved. Next came the substitution of a more effective central government for that of a Congress which had no power to enforce its decisions, and for a long period little ability to decide. And the convention of 1787, four years after the peace, was presided over by him. In that was formed the constitution, under which, with comparatively few amendments, the United States have existed in honor and prosperity for more than sixty years. No one, probably, of its framers better knew than he the difficulties to be met, the powers necessary to be created and exercised, and the authority requisite to be given, in order to constitute an efficient yet paternal government ; although this knowledge were in him more the result of experience, aided by sound, practical good sense, than of sedentary study and learned research. For these the corporal activity of his pursuits and labors had allowed him little leisure. But there were in association with him minds of high intelligence. Of this character were ADAMS, JEFFERSON, HAMILTON, MADISON, and JAY. To these, and such as they, were confided the great concerns of adjusting and balancing the respective depart- ments, legislative, judicial, and executive, and of founding, at length, under his super- intendence, an empire of laws based on the welfare of the whole community ; laws under which any aggregate of population, if disposed to be orderly, industrious, and frugal, or any number of states, if loyally affiliated to the federal government, can enjoy as great prosperity as it falls to the lot of human institutions to secure. The third view is that in which, after the perils, sufferings, sacrifices of the revolution, and the establishment of principles of government, partaking of the nature as well of concession, agreement, and compromise, in certain cases, as of conservative arrangements in others, we behold the successful warrior and upright legislator, first in the esteem, veneration, gratitude, and confidence of his countrymen, becoming their first president. At the head now of a new nation, his habits of intercourse must form precedents for his successors. The formalities of his administration will characterize future courses ; and, happily, his inclination, judgment, and resolution established a "just medium" between too great stateliness, resembling the courts of foreign princes, and the too great familiarity which would bring government into contempt. " If I were to exhibit the spirit of the constitution," observed recently the present able secretary of state, " in its living, speaking, animated form, I would refer always, always to the administration of the first president, GEORGE WASHINGTON. And if I were now to describe a patriot president, I would draw his masterstrokes and copy his design. I would present his picture before me as a constant study for life. I would present his policy, alike liberal, just, narrowed down to no sectional interests, bound to no personal objects, held to no locality, but INTRODUCTION. 21 bic^d, and generous, and open, as expansive as the air. ... I would draw a picture of his foreign policy, just, steady, stately, but withal . . . lofty and glorious. No man could say in his day that the broad escutcheon of the honor of the Union could receive injury or damage, or^even contumely or disrespect, with impunity. His own character gave character to the foreign relations of the country. He upheld every interest of his country in even the proudest nations of Europe ; and while resolutely just, he was resolutely determined that no plume in the honor of his country should ever be defaced or taken from its proper position by any power on earth. WASHINGTON was cautious and prudent; no self-seeker; giving information to Congress according to the constitution, on all questions, when necessary, with fairness and frankness, claiming nothing for himself, exercising his own rights, and pre- serving the dignity of his station, but taking especial care to execute the laws as a paramount duty, and in such manner as to give satisfaction to every body, and to be subservient to that end. And it was always remarked of his administration, that he filled the courts of justice with the most spotless integrity, the highest talent, and the purest virtue ; and hence it be- came a common saying, running through all classes .of society, that our great security is in the learning and integrity of the judicial tribunals. This high character they justly possessed, and continue to possess in an eminent degree, from the impress which WASHINGTON stamped on these tribunals at their first organization." * We have dwelt thus long on this administration, as it exhibits the genius and spirit of the American government in its acknowledged model. Successive presidents the thirteenth is now in the chair have in general so regarded it, as well as the people at large ; and all parties virtually conspire to render to it their praise. We have not room to follow out the history of each administration. The constitution itself it is proper for a short space to consider. Its OBJECTS are, to form a more perfect union, establish justice, insure domestic tranquillity, provide for the common defence, promote the general welfare, and secure the blessings of liberty ; and it is ordained and established in the name of the people. I. It vests all the LEGISLATIVE POWERS it grants in a Congress, consisting of two branches, a Senate and House of Representatives. The representatives are chosen once in two years, by all persons qualified in their several states to vote for members of the most numerous branch of the state legislature ; and no one can be entitled to a seat in this house under twenty-five years of age. He must also have been a citizen of the United States for seven years, and an inhabitant of the state in which he is chosen. The Senate consists of two senators from each state, chosen by its legislature, for six years. It is divided into three classes, one of which goes out of office every two years. A senator must have attained thirty years, been a citizen of the United States nine years, and be an in- habitant of the state that elects him. When a vacancy occurs in the representation of a state, its executive is to issue writs for a new election by the people. If it happen. in the Senate, the state legislature supplies it by a new election ; and should it occur when such legislature is not in session, the state executive makes a temporary appointment until the legislature meets. The representatives choose their own speaker, have the exclusive power to impeach public officers, and originate bills for raising a revenue. The Vice President of the United States presides over the Senate, which chooses its other officers, and a president pro tempore, in case of absence of its president, or in case he exercise the office of President of the United States. Each house determines the validity of the elections and qualifications of ifls own members, forms its own rules, and keeps a journal of its proceedings. Their members are privileged from arrest, during the session, except for treason, felony, or breach of the peace. The Congress has power to make and enforce all laws necessary for the general welfare ; as, to lay taxes and collect them, imposts and excises also, to borrow money, regulate commerce, * See Mr. Webstw's Speeches at Buffalo, Syracuse, and Albany, in May, 1851, p. 55, ed. N. Y. 22 UNITED STATES. establish uniform rules of naturalization, coin money, establish post-roads and post-offices, promote the arts and sciences, institute tribunals inferior to the Supreme Court, define and punish piracy, declare war and make reprisals, raise and support armies, provide and maintain a navy, and regulate the militia, and to make all laws necessary to carry these powers into effect, exercising also jurisdiction over the District of Columbia. II. No bill of attainder or retrospective (ex post facto) law shall be passed ; the writ of habeas corpus cannot be suspended, except in cases of rebellion or invasion ; no soldier, in time of peace, to be quartered in any house without the consent of the owner, nor in time of war but in a manner to be prescribed by law ; no direct tax can be laid, except according to a census of the inhabitants ; no duty can be laid on exports ; no money to be drawn from the treasury, unless appropriated by law ; no law to be made respecting an establishment of religion, or prohibiting the free exercise thereof; or abridging the freedom of speech, or of the press ; or the right of the people peaceably to assemble, and to petition the government for a redress of grievances ; no title of nobility can be granted, nor can any public officer, without the consent of Congress, accept of any present or title from any foreign prince or state. The states are restricted from emitting bills of credit, making any thing but gold or silver a tender for debts, and passing any law impairing private contracts. No member, also, of Congress, continuing such, is allowed to hold any office under the government of the United States ; and no person holding any office under the United States can be a member of either house during his continuance in office. III. The EXECUTIVE POWER, is vested in a president, who holds his office for four* years, and who must have been a citizen at the adoption of the constitution, or native of the United States, must have attained thirty-five years of age, and been fourteen years a resident within the Union. The president, and the vice president, of similar qualifications, are chosen by electors, designated as the legislature of each state shall direct. The number of electors in each state is to equal the whole number of its senators and representatives. The president is coinmander-in-chief of the army and navy of the United States, and of the militia when called into actual service. He grants reprieves and pardons, except in cases of impeachment; nominates, and, with advice and consent of the Senate, appoints ambassa- dors, judges, and other officers of the United States, forms treaties, provided two thirds of the Senate agree, and fills vacancies in offices happening during the Senate's recess. He convenes the Congress on extraordinary occasions, receives foreign ministers, gives information to Congress of the state of public affairs, and, in general, takes care that the laws be faithfully executed being himself under solemn oath or affirmation to that end, and liable to impeach- ment as any other public officer. In case of death, resignation, or removal of the president, the vice president succeeds to his office. IV. The JUDICIARY of the United States consists of one Supreme Court, meeting annually at Washington, and such inferior courts as Congress ordains. The judges hold their offices during good behavior, and while holding them can sustain no diminution of salary. The power of these courts extends to all cases in law and equity, arising under the constitution or laws of the United States, and under treaties ; to cases of public ministers and consuls ; to all cases of admiralty and maritime jurisdiction ; to controversies between the states, and where the United States are a party, but not in regard to suits originating with foreign states, or subjects of them ; between citizens of different states ; between a state and a citizen of another state, and between citizens of the same state, claiming under grants of different states ; and to causes between one of the states, or an American citizen, and a foreign state or citizen. V. As to general RIGHTS AND IMMUNITIES : In all criminal trials, except impeachment, the trial by jury is guarantied to the accused. Treason is restricted to the simple act of levying war against the United States, and adhering to their enemies, giving them aid and comfort ; and no one can be convicted but by two witnesses to the same act, or by confession in open court. Conviction of treason is not followed by corruption of blood, to disinherit the criminal's heirs, nor by forfeiture of estate, except during the life of the offender. The citizens of each state are entitled to all privileges and immunities of citizens in the several states ; and the powers INTRODUCTION. 23 not delegated to the United States by the constitution, nor prohibited by it to the states, are reserved to the states respectively, or to the people. Congress may admit new states into the Union ; and the national compact guaranties to each state a republican form of government, together with protecti8n from foreign invasion and domestic violence.* Such, in substance, is the celebrated CHARTER, if it so may be called, of the rights, priv- ileges, and duties of American citizens, whether in their private capacity, or raised for a time to offices of trust and power. Under it these states have grown to a maturity which ranks them, in their collective, concentred existence, among the leading nations of the world. To the three millions of their population, when they felt it their duty to appeal to arms against the mother country, they have now added a score of millions, and more. They are in commerce second only to Great Britain, the first among the nations. Their navy is respectable, well built, and well furnished. Their internal commerce is immense. Its statistics appear in the following work. Their railroads are among the greatest triumphs of art over natural impedi- ments of distance and unequal surfaces. Steam has astonishingly facilitated and abridged human toil ; and the ease with which intelligence is, like lightning, sent from one extremity of the Union to the other, is among the wonders of the age. We do not here appeal to statistics ; these occupy another department, and will confirm me present statements amply. We commend to the reader a careful perusal of them, and will simply remark, in closing this rapid review, that it is not alone in the progress of population,! agriculture, commerce, and the arts, that we are to contemplate the elements of greatness bestowed on the United States. Other things demand a grateful notice. Very early in the settlement of the country it was perceived that no temporal prosperity could be permanent without the institutions of learning and religion. Two classes of English- men came over : the one, at the south, maintained conformity to the church of England ; the other, at the north, claimed and exercised a greater liberty the liberty of dissent. These dispositions had each their peculiar effect. Compelled to rely on themselves, the northern dissenters founded their college, and endowed it as well as their poverty would allow ; and for years it was the only seminary of such kind in the colonies. Sir WILLIAM BERKELEY, J like the late Emperor of Austria, wanted about him " not learned men, but obedient subjects." Wherever the influence of New England reaches in these states, the school, the college, and the Christian ministry are esteemed as necessaries of life, and not easily dispensed with ; and all the states, without exception, perhaps, have since the revolution partaken more or less in this feeling. The press groans with its periodical issues ; and these are not all the pro- duction of contentious political partisans ; but a large share is of a religious, scientific, literary character, bringing into discussion the great questions that agitate the intellectual world, and assuming a stand in the crowd of learned competitors. Astronomy, chemistry, mineralogy, geology, and natural history are cultivated with growing ardor and success. They will be advanced by the facilities afforded through the unexpected liberality of an English stranger, whose benefaction has consecrated at the capital of the nation a reservoir of knowledge, diffusing its streams to the extremities of the land. Our missionary enterprises, in the foreign field and at home, have been surprisingly pros- perous. The state of Christian civilization bestowed on the Sandwich Islands is the proof of it as regards distant efforts ; the increasing settlement of the institutions of religion in the * See the constitution itself, and the abridgment of it in Webster's "Elements of Knowledge," copied into that very useful and valuable compendium, Goodrich's " History of the United States," compiled for youth ; and of which many thousands are in their hands throughout the Union. t For numbers only, China stands first, with her 300 or 400,000,000, as the case may be ; then Brit- ain, reckoning 150,000,000 subjects of her queen. Russia follows, with 60,000,000 ; France and Austria rank next. And whether the empire of Japan or the United States come next in order is not clear. Turkey is, probably, in advance of Prussia and Spain. No other power, perhaps, exceeds 10,000,000 of subjects. J Governor of Virginia under the crown. James Smithson, Esq. 24 UNITED STATES. west is a happy comment on the domestic effort ; while the creation of a new republic on the shores of Africa is one of the most glorious of the triumphs of religion, humanity, and polit - ical wisdom. Nothing will be wanting to the greatness and prosperity of our cherished republic, if, securing the blessing of GOD by obedience to his Word, under the directions of which no small portion of our ancestors lived and toiled, we hold on our way with fearless integrity, and a conscien- tious love of our countrv and our race. DESCRIPTIONS OF STATES AND TERRITORIES. Ig^" The reader will please to observe that the statistical tables and other documents near the close of the volume will be found to contain much additional information in regard to the several and combined interests of the following confederated republics, denominated the United States of America. These states and territories are alphabetically arranged. ALABAMA ranks as the twenty-second state of the American Union. It was originally settled by French and Spanish immigrants. In conjunction with Mississippi, it was set off from Georgia, in 1800, as a separate territory ; which again was divided in 1817, the western portion forming the State of Mississippi, and the eastern the Territory of Alabama now the state of that name, having been so constituted by act of Congress in March, 1819. Limits and Extent. It is bounded by Tennessee on the north, Georgia on the east, Florida and the Gulf of Mexico on the south, and Mississippi on the west. It extends from 30 10' to 35 north latitude, and from 85 to 88 30 7 west longitude ; comprising an area of nearly 51,000 square miles. Surface and Soil. The face of the country exhibits much variety. In the northern quarter, where the Alleghany Mountains terminate, it is elevated and somewhat broken, but gradually improves in appearance and fertility as it descends towards the opposite boundary, where it settles into wide-spreading prairies and gently-swelling plains, profusely covered with grass 4 26 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. and beautiful herbage. For all purposes of agriculture, the chief pursuit of the inhabitants, the soil is, in general, finely adapted. There are many large tracts, especially on the margins of rivers, which are remarkably productive. The most prominent among the " kindly fruits of the earth " are cotton, corn, wheat, and rice. Tobacco and sugar are also cultivated to some extent. The cotton crop, for several years past, is estimated to have been equal to a sixth part of the aggregate annual harvest of that commodity within the United States. Minerals, particularly iron and coal, are found in various parts of the state ; the latter article exists in abundance on the borders of the Cahawba and Black Warrior Rivers. Climate. Alabama presents considerable diversity of climate, healthful or otherwise, accord- ing to locality. The hilly region, in the central and northern parts, affords a salubrioua atmosphere, mildly tempered in winter, and gratefully pleasant in summer ; but the low and marshy districts at the south, the bottom lands along the rivers, and the country lying in the neighborhood of the Muscle Shoals, are usually considered unhealthy. Rivers. Nearly every part of the state is amply watered by large streams admitting of extensive steamboat navigation. The most considerable and important of these rivers are the Tennessee, Chattahoochee, Alabama, and Tombigbee. Civil Government. The legislative power is vested in a Senate and House of Representa- tives ; the former composed of thirty-three members, elected for four years, one half retiring every two years, and the latter consisting of one hundred members, elected biennially. The sessions of the legislature are held once in two years, at the present seat of government, the city of Montgomery. The people elect not only the executive and legislative authorities, but the judges of Circuit and Probate Courts. Judges of the Supreme Court and chancellors are chosen for terms of six years by the General Assembly, in joint ballot. Judiciary. The Supreme Court holds its sessions at the capital, semiannually, in June and January : it is composed of a chief and two associate justices. The Court of Chancery, corn- prising three chancellors, holds an annual session in each of the thirty-seven districts into which the state is subdivided. The Circuit Courts, of which there are nine judges, hold two sessions per annum, in each of the nine circuits. Education. See Literary Institutions. Internal Improvements. The state enjoys numerous facilities for intercommunication, and a due measure of public interest is directed to the development of these natural advantages. Many miles of railroads, and several important canals, have alrealy been constructed, and others are also in contemplation. Manufactures. But little attention has been given to the business of converting the prin- cipal staple of the state into fabrics for exportation. Nearly all the cotton produced is sent as raw material to markets beyond the state, and but a small portion of the population is engaged in the manufacture of other articles of domestic growth. Public Debt, fyc. For information relative to the debts, expenditures, financial resources, &c., of the state, see Statistical Tables. Indians. There are within the limits of Alabama several formidable tribes, or parts of tribes, some of whom, the Cherokees particularly, have attained a respectable state of civili- zation. These reside in the north-east corner of the state. The Choctaws and Chickasaws occupy portions of the western part, and the Creeks dwell on the eastern border. During the war of 1812, the white settlements were much annoyed by the Indians, who were finally subdued by General Jackson. Population. One of the chief impulses which led to the almost unexampled increase of population in Alabama, within the last forty years, was the annexation, in 1812, or" a part of Florida. This measure gave access to an important coast frontier on the Gulf of Mexico, and induced an immediate flow of emigration in that direction. STATES AND TERRITORIES. ARKANSAS. 27 ARKANSAS. This state was originally included within the limits of Louisiana ; from which, in conjunction with Missouri, it was set off, becoming a part of the latter, under the name of Missouri Territory, soon after the purchase of the former by the United States. In 1819, Missouri was divided, and the southern portion became the Territory of Arkansas. It remained under a distinct territorial government until 1830, when it was elevated to the rank of an independent state, constituting the twenty-sixth member of the American Union. As early as 1C85, settlements were formed in the country now embraced in this state by certain French adventurers, who formed alliances and intermarried with the then powerful tribe of Arkansas Indians, from whom the name of the state is derived. Boundaries and Extent. It is bounded north by the State of Missouri ; east by the River Mississippi, separating it from the state of that name, and from Tennessee ; south by Louisiana, and west by the Indian Territory. It lies between 33 and 30 3(X north latitude, and reaches longitudinally from 89 30 ; to 94 30' west ; being 245 miles in length, with a mean breadth of about 212 miles, comprehending an area of somewhat over 52,000 square miles. Government. The governor is elected, by a plurality of the popular vote, for a term of four years, but is ineligible for more than eight in any twelve years. There is no lieutenant governor, the executive duties devolving, in cases of official disability, first upon the president of the Senate, and next upon the speaker of the House of Representatives. The legislature consists of a Senate, in number not less than seventeen, nor more than thirty-four members, elected for four years ; and of a House of Representatives, comprising from fifty-four to one hundred members, chosen biennially. The legislature convenes once in two years, at Little Rock, the capital. Laws against the introduction of slaves, either as criminals or as merchandise, may be passed by the General Assembly. Slaves are entitled by law to trial by jury ; and, in capital cases, no difference on account of color is made in the imposition of penalties. Judiciary. The Supreme Court has three judges, who are chosen for terms of eight years by joint vote of the legislature. It has appellate jurisdiction only, except in cases provided for by the constitution. The Circuit Courts have six judges, elected by the people for four years. They have exclusive jurisdiction of all felonies, and of all civil cases not cognizable by justices of the peace, and hold hi each circuit two terms annually. Education. Although large provision for the support of public education has been made, 28 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. the subject has hitherto occupied but a small share of the popular attention. There are, com- paratively, but few common schools, and only some eight or ten academies, or high schools, in the state ; yet, under an act of Congress, one thirty-sixth part of every township of land was appropriated for the maintenance of these institutions. The state treasury has also been liberally drawn upon for the same purpose. Nor are there any colleges, notwithstanding the munificent grant by Congress of seventy-two sections of land for the establishment of a classical seminary; the legislature having preferred to sell the land and divide the avails among the several counties. Finances. For particulars of receipts, expenditures, state debts, &c., see Statistical Tables. Surface and Soil. On the western border of the Mississippi, and extending some one hun- dred miles into the interior, the country is low, marshy, and subject to periodical inundations. It is densely wooded, with occasional open tracts of arable land. Towards the centre, it is generally hilly and rugged, though interspersed with extensive prairies. The western section is crossed by several mountainous ridges, the most elevated of which are the Black Mountains, and the Ozark (alias Arkansas) Mountains, the altitude of some of the peaks of which is estimated at 3000 feet above the level of the sea. As a whole, the state cannot be considered as a region of great fertility, some three fourths of its surface being unproductive, or unfit for tillage ; although in certain localities, in the neighborhood of the inland streams, the soil is remarkably rich. The staple products of the earth are cotton and Indian corn ; and consider- able quantities of wheat, oats, sweet potatoes, and tobacco are also raised. Immense plains, covered exuberantly with verdure, afford peculiar facilities for the growth of cattle ; and the forests and prairies abound with wild game, such as the buffalo, deer, elk, wild turkeys, geese, quails, &c. Indigenous fruits, such as grapes, plums, &c., are found in profusion. The peach is cultivated with great success, but the apple does not flourish. Rivers. There is scarcely a spot in the whole state that has not some navigable water- course within a distance of one hundred miles, so thoroughly is it penetrated by those natural channels of intercommunication. Among the principal rivers by which the state is watered, besides the Mississippi, are the St. Francis, the Arkansas, the Ouachitta, the White, Black, and Red Rivers. Internal Improvements. Little interest has been manifested in this subject. A grant by Congress of 500,000 acres of land, for the purpose of encouraging a system of internal im- provements, was diverted from its legitimate object by an act of the legislature in 1849, authorizing the distribution of this fund among the forty counties into which the state was subdivided. Minerals. No extensive explorations of the mineral resources of Arkansas have yet been nmde ; there are, however, undoubted indications of the existence of numerous beds of iron and lead ores, coal, and gypsum. Salt is also abundant, being found upon the surface of several large prairies, in some instances, it is said, to the depth of four to six inches. It is also contained in many remarkable springs, the waters of which are strongly impregnated with this material. Manufactures. Hitherto the manufacturing operations within this state have amounted to nothing of importance beyond the fabrication of articles for household use and home con- sumption. Climate. Upon the low river lands, the climate is decidedly unfavorable to human health , but in the elevated country, it is quite otherwise ; although, in some quarters, the deleterious properties of the water render these localities unfit for the residence of a very numerous popu- lation. Connected with this topic may be mentioned the hot or warm springs, numbers of which are situated near the centre of the state. Their waters are known to be efficacious in the cure of chronic maladies, and are much resorted to by invalids, as well as by travellers drawn thither by curiosity. Religion. The predominating religious denominations are Methodists and Baptists. There are likewise considerable bodies of Episcopalians, Presbyterians, and Roman Catholics. STATES AND TERRITORIES. CALIFORNIA. 29 Indians. Many tribes, or parts of tribes, of Indians have their abodes still within this state, the most populous of which are the Cherokees, Choctaws, Osages, Quapas, Camanches, &c. Population. Between 1810 and 1820, the population of Arkansas increased from 1000 to 15,000. In 1830 it had Doubled this number, and in 1840 had risen to nearly 100,000, one fifth of whom were slaves. In 1850 it was 209,639. CALIFORNIA has recently become one of the United States. A part of the country was discovered as earl)'' as 1542, by a Spaniard named Cobrillo ; and its northern section was visited for the first time by foreigners in 1578, when Sir Francis Drake, then at the head of an expedition from England, gave to this region the name of New Albion. The Spaniards planted colonies upon its sea-coast in 1768, from which period, until 1836, the territory was a province of Mexico. In the latter year a revolution occurred. The people, after having frequently compelled the Mexican governors and other officials to abandon their posts, declared themselves independent, and undertook to organize new political institutions. Several weak and ineffectual attempts to regain absolute control were made from time to time by the Mex- icans, until the year 1846. In July of that year, the port of Monterey, a central point on the Pacific coast of the state, was seized, in the name of the United States, by a naval force under Commodore Sloat, who at once unfurled the American flag, and established a provisional govern- ment. At that epoch, the administration of the affairs of the territory was in the hands of a civil governor and a military commandante, both natives of California, but holding commissions from the President of Mexico. In 1848, the discovery of a gold "placer" at Columa, (Sutter's Mills,) and the ascertained reality of its extraordinary richness, followed immediately by further and equally surprising developments, startled the whole civilized world ; and a tide of emigration began to flow in from every quarter, with a rapidity and volume unparalleled in the history of nations. The population forthwith attained the required number for the forma- tion of a distinct state. The inhabitants prepared and submitted to Congress the draught of a constitution ; and in September, 1850, California was admitted into full membership as one of the United States. Boundaries and Extent. By the constitution, adopted by the people in November. 1849, and by the act of Congress consequent thereon, the limits of California are established as fol- lows : commencing at latitude 42 north, and longitude 120 west ; thence running south on said line of longitude until it intersects the 39th degree of north latitude ; thence in a direct course south-easterly to the River Colorado ; thence down the channel of said river to the boundary 30 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. between Mexico and the United States ; thence along said boundary to the Pacific Ocean, and into the same three English miles ; thence north-westerly, in the direction of the Pacific coast, to the original parallel of 42 ; and, finally, along this line to the point of beginning. It lies between 32 and 42 north latitude ; and its extremes of longitude, owing to its angular position, embrace an extent of about 10, its eastern point being at 114 3CK, and the western at 124 30', although the average distance of the eastern boundary from the sea-coast, and, consequently, the average breadth of the state, is but 212 miles. Its length from north to south is 764 miles ; estimated area, 188,500 square miles. It is bounded north by the Territory of Oregon, east by that of Utah, south by Lower California, and west by the Pacific Ocean. Government. The chief magistrate is elected for two years ; also the lieutenant governor, who is ex qfficio president of the Senate. The legislature is composed of two branches the Senate, consisting of not less than one third, nor more than one half of the number contained in the other house, elected by districts biennially ; and the Assembly, chosen annually, also by districts, to comprise not less than twenty-four nor more than thirty-six members, until the population shall amount to 100,000, when the minimum shall be thirty, and the maximum eighty. The legislature convenes annually in January. No lotteries can be granted, nor charters' for banking purposes. The circulation of paper as money is prohibited. Corporations may be formed under general laws only. In legislative elections, the members vote viva voce. Loans of the state credit are interdicted ; and state debts, exceeding a sum total of $300,000, cannot be contracted except in certain specified contingencies. The property of married women acquired before or after marriage, and a portion of the homesteads, or other estates of heads of families, are protected by law. The elective franchise is held by all white males twenty-one years of age, who are citizens of the United States, or Mexicans choosing to become citizens, under the treaty of Queretaro, and have resided six months within the state. Indians and their descendants are allowed to vote in special cases. Judiciary. The Supreme Court consists of a chief justice and two associates, elected by the people for six years, and so classified that one shall retire every two years. District judges are chosen in like manner, for the same term of time ; and county judges are elected for four years. The Supreme Court has appellate jurisdiction in cases involving a sum not less than two hundred dollars, in the settlement of certain legal questions, and in various criminal matters. The District Courts have power to try cases in law and equity, where the sum in dispute exceeds two hundred dollars. The county judges, assisted by two justices of the peace, hold Courts of Sessions in each county for criminal business. Clerks of courts, district attorneys, sheriffs, coroners, &c., are chosen by the people. Finances. The state debt in January, 1851, was $500,000, existing in the shape of bonds of $500 and $1000 each, drawing interest at the rate of three per cent, a month. The means of meeting the public expenditure are derived chiefly from taxation. In 1850, the inhabitants of San Francisco and Sacramento were taxed at the rate of two to three per cent., principally, however, for municipal purposes. The state derives an income of $1,525,000 from the following sources : 1. A state tax of one half per cent, on $200,000,000, the estimated value of taxable property, amounting to $1,000,000 ; 2. A poll tax of $5 each on 50.000 in- habitants ; and, 3. A miner's tax of $20 per month on 25,000 foreign miners,* the two latter items producing about half a million of dollars ; and, 4. Duties on sales at auction, estimated at $25,000. The whole expense of the state government in 1850, including interest on the public debt, was $700,000, deducting which from the computed receipts, a balance of $825,000 remained in the treasury. Education. The constitution provides for the establishment and support of a system of free schools, in which instruction shall be given at least three months in each year. A fund is to be created from various sources, the interest of which is to be inviolably applied to the maintenance of these institutions. This fund must soon become one of great magnitude ; for it is to consist of the proceeds of public lands ceded to the state for school purposes, and of * This tax was repealed in the spring of 1851. STATES AND TERKITORIES. CALIFOKNIA. 31 the 500,000 acres of land granted to each new state by the general government, together with such percentage on sales of lands within the state as shall be allowed by Congress, and the avails of all estates left by persons dying without heirs. Certain lands are also set apart, the income of which is to be^appropriated to the maintenance of a university. Surface, Soil, fyc. The face of the country presents, perhaps, a greater variety of topo- graphical features than may be found in any one territory of like magnitude upon the whole earth. Several ranges of huge and lofty mountains many of their peaks of volcanic origin, ascending into the region of perpetual snow extend through the central parts, and parallel with the sea-coast of the state, from its northern nearly to its southern extremity. On the coast side of these ridges, as well as between them, the surface is greatly diversified, pre- senting many varieties of soil, thin and sandy in some localities, but in others abounding in the richest loam. Among the hilly regions, there are numerous valleys and plateaus, of different elevations, covered with a soil of good quality, which, wherever duly watered, is capable of being rendered highly productive. But these are frequently interspersed with large tracts of rough, broken, and apparently sterile territory, or intersected by deep and rocky ravines. Until within a very short period, the entire country, with the exception of a few widely separated spots, exhibited all the harsh and rugged characteristics of a yet unre- deemed wilderness. The elevated lands, at certain seasons, are usually either denuded of vegetation, or partially overspread with stunted trees and herbage. But in places that are sheltered, and having facilities for irrigation, fruits and garden vegetables grow luxuriantly. Though few agri- cultural experiments on a large scale have yet been made, enough has been ascertained to show that the resources of the state, in this respect, may be advantageously developed. Indeed, it is known that most of the cereal grains can be produced in quantities abundantly adequate to the wants of a numerous population. In most parts of the country, the vine, fig, olive, and other valuable plants, both of the temperate and torrid zones, may be cultivated with great success. Springs of water abound in many districts ; while in others, the earth, for leagues together, exposes a naked and arid surface, which is only relieved by the periodical rains. Some few extensive forests, comprising, occasionally, trees of enormous magnitude, were met with by recent United States exploring parties ; but large portions of the territory are very scan- tily wooded. This absence of trees, and the consequent want of moisture, and of shelter to the earth from the sun's heat, is doubtless a grand obstacle in the way of agricultural improve- ment ; and years will probably elapse before any great measure of public attention will be directed to the subject. Among the forest-trees most common in California are the oak, ash, beech, birch, elm, plane, red cedar, and pine of almost every description. These abound more profusely near the Pacific shore, and in the vicinity of rivers communicating with that ocean, thus affording excellent opportunities for ship-building.* Climate. There is nearly, if not quite, as great a diversity of climate in California as of its geological features. The coast and its neighborhood are enveloped in cold mists, borne on the north-west winds, which prevail during most of the summer or dry season, with occasional intervals of more pleasant weather. At San Francisco, although the temperature frequently varies some 30 in a single day, it is said that the mean temperature, in both winter and sum- mer, is nearly equal. Other positions on the coast are more or less affected by the chilly winds and fogs from the point above indicated, in proportion to their relative geographical situations, the line of coast at the southern part of the state being less directly influenced by those causes than that at the northern. In the winter, or rainy season, the prevailing winds are from the south-west, rendering the temperature much milder than in the same latitudes on the Atlantic side of the continent. Farther inland, beyond the first range of mountains, the * Timber is scattered over several counties, and is quite abundant around Bodaga, San Rafael, Sonoma, Santa Cruz, and a few other localities. The red wood, or soft cedar, is most frequently met with in those quarters. It often grows to the circumference of forty feet, and to a height of three hundred. Near Santa Cruz, there is one measuring seventeen feet in diameter. 32 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. climate assumes a very different phase. The sea winds of the spring, summer, and early autumn, having deposited their freight of moisture upon the summits of the intercepting highlands, (the " Cordilleras of California,") pass gently into the great valley of the Sacra- mento, carrying a grateful softness, with scarcely a remaining vapor to obscure the brightness of the skies. Proceeding still onward in an easterly direction, these prevailing winds climb the flanks of the lofty Sierra Nevada, and, on reaching its elevated peaks, are deprived by condensation of all watery particles that may yet linger among them. Thence they pass down into the broad basin, spreading eastward to an immense extent, with occasional moun- tainous interruptions. Here another change of climate is perceptible ; the air is exceedingly dry and hot throughout more than half the year, and the earth suffers accordingly. These variations occur sometimes within the distance of a few miles, corresponding generally with the abrupt changes observable upon the face of the country. A most delightful climate per- vades the numerous valleys on the land side of the mountains, where they are protected from the rude ocean blasts. Near the western border of the Sacramento valley, the extremes of temperature, between winter and summer, are very great, comprehending some 80 Fahren- heit, viz., from 30 to 110. A degree of heat almost as excessive as the last indicated is often felt in various parts of the mountain region ; but this is here so peculiarly modified as to produce none of those injurious effects upon animal life which result from similar tempera- tures elsewhere. The rainy season, sometimes termed the winter, commences at the north in October or November, and progresses slowly to the south, reaching the centre of the state in December, and the southern boundary in January. The season has an average duration of about three months, but is longer and more pluvious at the north than at the south. The effect of all these atmospheric mutations upon human health must naturally be diverse, and not always congenial. The subject, however, has not yet been sufficiently investigated and analyzed to enable one to treat with accuracy upon the relations between those phenomena and the diseases incident to the localities where they respectively exist. That great scourge of modern times, the cholera, has visited some of the most populous settlements in the state ; and other epidemics occur at different seasons, similar in character to those which visit other parts of the world exposed to like vicissitudes and agencies. Rivers. The waters of California partake of those varied peculiarities which mark its terrene surface and its atmospheric properties. The sea and its numerous contiguous bays and estuaries, the inland lakes, the rivers and their countless tributaries, are all subjects of speculative interest. They yield abundantly almost every description of fish found in like latitudes, besides many kinds which are either unknown or not common in other regions. Some of the rivers are navigable many miles from their moutns ; others flow over precipices and ledges, constituting falls or rapids, which the industry of man may hereafter convert into valuable mill sites. The sea-shores are prolific in marine plants, which, at some future day, will doubtless be applied to useful purposes. Immense quantities of kelp are thrown up by the waves an article that now forms the most available material for the manufacture of iodine, and is also excellent as a compost for arid soils, like those of this state. Lichens, in all their variety, spring profusely from the rocky strand along its entire extent, which, like the mosses of Iceland, and the carrageen of Ireland, will undoubtedly, in due time, be much prized for their nutritive and medical properties. The coasts and inland watercourses swarm with wild fowl, some of which resemble the aquatic birds found on the eastern shores of the continent, and others seem peculiar to the tracts which they inhabit. The principal rivers, communi- cating with the Pacific, are the Sacramento and San Joaquin. These flow through almost the whole length of the great valley between the Sierra Nevada and the coast range of moun- tains, the former taking its rise in the north, and the latter in the south, and both, uniting near the centre of the state, pass into the noble Bay of San Francisco, whence they reach the sea. They are fed in their course by great numbers of mountain streams from the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada. Other important rivers, though of less considerable extent, intersect the state in various directions. Internal Improvements. 'But little attention has hitherto been given to this subject, beyond STATES AND TERRITORIES. CALIFORNIA. 33 providing for the temporary accommodation of residents in the principal settlements. No railroads or canals of any importance have yet been constructed ; although projects have been suggested for several improvements of this description. It is not probable that many years will elapse before ample and convenient means of communication will be established between the seaports and the mining districts ; for the necessities of the people, and the nature of their pursuits, must soon demand far greater facilities of intercourse than any now existing. Minerals. Besides the incredible quantities of gold, for which California has become renowned above all other countries on the globe, sundry mineral products of much value are found in different parts of the state. Silver, mercury, and lead have been obtained ; and indications of copper, tin, iron, and other ores have appeared, as is reported, in several places.* No satisfactory signs, however, of any extensive coal fields have as yet been discovered, although reports of their existence have from time to time been made. Some few small veins of what was at first imagined to be pure coal have been met with ; but, on investi- gation, they have proved to be lignite, bitumen, or other material of tertiary formation. Researches for other minerals than gold have not yet been prosecuted to any great extent ; nor is it likely that, during the prevailing attraction towards the more precious metal, the coexistent mineral resources of the state will be fully developed, unless incidentally, and by degrees, or through systematic explorations under authority of the government. The wealth of the "gold region" is almost, if not entirely, incalculable. This region comprehends the territory occupied by the Sierra Nevada and the contiguous country, including its rivers. Indeed, it is almost solely on account of its capacity to produce gold, that the attention of the world has been directed to this extraordinary country. The universally coveted metal is found in prodigious quantities along the western slopes of the great moun- tain range, and especially in and around the streams that descend thence into the large valley of California, at the bottom of which flow the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers. The gold is obtained in various forms, mostly in small, thin particles ; but not unfrequently in lumps, some of which have weighed several pounds. The slate rocks of the mountains enclose numerous veins of granite, in which gold is imbedded ; and it is from these sources, wrought upon as they have been by volcanic action, that the metal finds its way into the ravines and crevices upon the mountain sides, and into the streams below, carried thither by the constant operation of powerful atmospheric agencies. The value of the auriferous product of Cali- fornia can scarcely be computed. The yield of the mines for the year 1851, it is confidently stated, may be estimated at some seventy millions of dollars. This is based on official state- ments of the amounts procured, carried away by sea and land, stamped by various houses, or manufactured into jewelry, &c., during the first quarter of that year ; the aggregate of which, at the mint valuation, exceeded sixteen millions of dollars. New developments of rich deposits are constantly occurring ; and notwithstanding the vast additions to the population, which are made daily, the average gains of .miners do not seem in any degree to diminish. Manufactures. The only manufacturing branches at present carried on in California are such as chiefly pertain to the casual wants of the people ; and these are confined to mechanical operations connected with the construction and repairing of houses, vessels, furniture, &c., the making up of clothing, and the fabrication of various articles needed by miners. Some considerable amount of gold is formed into jewelry, much of which is sent abroad ; but no other commodities, to any great extent, are manufactured for exportation. Indians. Few of the descendants of the aboriginal inhabitants remain within the present limits of the state. These few consist of small and scattered tribes, who neither own, nor pretend to claim, any portion of the soil beyond the boundaries of their small villages. To * Cinnabar is found, in great quantities, within eight or ten miles of San Jose, the capital of the state. Sulphur is obtained in the vicinity of Sonoma. Salt ponds exist in different parts of the state, and limestone is not uncommon. In various spots, during the summer season, a peculiar sort of earth may be gathered from the sites of certain dried-up ponds, which possesses strong alkaline properties, *nd answers all the uses of ashes in the manufacture of soap. 5 34 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. the gold region, especially, they assert no title. They are, for the most part, a roaming, wretched race, divided into insignificant hordes, subsisting on wild fruits, berries, roots, &c., and too indolent to hunt for game in a legitimate way ; but not too much so to pursue and steal the cattle and horses of the whites, which they use for food. There are, probably, no bodies of Indians in the United States who are more dishonest, perfidious, and cruel ; nor any that are not superior in moral and intellectual character. Population. So rapidly has the population of California accumulated since the first dis- covery of a gold " placer," in February, 1848, and so constantly does the stream of immigration flow on and expand, that the ratio of increase, at definite periods, cannot be ascertained with any great degree of accuracy. A comparison of the number of residents in certain localities, at the time of the occupation of Monterey by the United States forces, (July, 1846,) with the estimated number in January, 1851, a space of four and a half years, may give some idea of the force and velocity of that great " tide in the affairs of men," which is setting towards this point from all quarters of the world. At the former date, there were but eight towns, or pueblos, within the present confines of the state, viz., San Diego, with 500 inhabitants ; Pueblo de los Angelos, with 2500 ; Santa Barbara, 800 ; Monterey, 1200 ; Santa Cruz, 400 ; Pueblo de San Jose, 1000 ; Yerba Buena, (now San Francisco,) 400 ; Sonoma, 200 ; making a total of 7000. The rest of the territory contained some 7000 or 8000 besides. At the latter date, it was estimated that the residents in California, permanent and temporary, num- bered not far from 200,000, one third of whom are engaged in mining.* There are towns, which, at the close of their first year's existence, contained from 1200 to 1500 voters. In October, 1850, the monthly mail from the United States conveyed nearly 50,000 letters to California; and there were 22,000 advertised letters in the post-office of Sacramento city, then a place of less than three years' growth. There are some twenty post towns in the state. In January, 1851, thirteen newspapers (many of them daily) were published, as follows : 6 in San Francisco, 2 in Sacramento city, 2 at Stockton, and 1 each at Monterey, Sonoma, and Maryville. Religion. There are religious societies of almost every Christian denomination, and increasing attention is given to the support of public worship. No one sect appears to pre- dominate, and the utmost toleration prevails. In the present fluctuating, unsettled, and bustling state of things, there must be, of course, many changes in the affairs, and in the rela- tive numbers, of different communities and associations ; so that an attempt to furnish correct statistical details in the premises must, at this time, be attended with much difficulty. * The following estimate, made in April, 1851, is from a public journal printed at Sacramento : In the northern mines, or that scope of country lying north of San Francisco and Feather River, the population is computed at 20,000 ; the Yuba, 40,000 ; Bear River, 4000 ; the American Fork, 50,000 ; in the southern mines, or that portion lying south of the American River, 89,000 ; Sacramento and San Joaquin valleys and neighborhood, 65,000; the coast south of San Francisco, 20,000; making an aggregate of 314,000. It is further estimated that the 100,000 miners have each labored 300 days during the preceding year, and have produced an average of 3J dollars per diem ; which gives a total of |100,000,000. STATES AND TERRITORIES. CONNECTICUT. 35 CONNECTICUT is one of the original thirteen United States, and the most southern of that division of the country known as the New England States. The territory now constituting this state was granted to the Earl of Warwick, in 1630, by the Plymouth Company in England, and by him, in 1631, was assigned to a number of active Puritans, who were on the parlia- mentary side in the quarrel with Charles I. It was shortly afterwards settled, in part, by persons from various towns in Massachusetts. A few of the Dutch people of New York also established one or two small settlements, with the intention of appropriating the whole terri- tory to themselves. This occasioned disputes, which continued until 1637, when the Pequot Indians made war upon all New England an event that united the people for their common defence, and soon enabled them to overcome their savage assailants. Purchases of large tracts were made from time to time of the Indian occupants ; and, in 1650, the Dutch aban- doned their pretensions, except to the lands they had actually settled upon. In 1664, Con- necticut was included in the charter from Charles II., granting the New Netherlands to the Duke of York ; but the attempt to take possession under this authority was resisted by the local government of Connecticut, as were further encroachments under James II. and King William. The territory originally comprised two colonies, Connecticut and New Haven ; the former settled by Massachusetts people in 1633, at Windsor, and, in 1635-6, at Hartford and Wethersfield ; the latter by the English in 1638. These were combined into one colony by virtue of the charter from Charles II., in 1665 ; which charter formed the basis of the government until 1818, when the present constitution was established. The state took a very active and efficient part in the American revolution, furnishing nearly 40,000 soldiers out of a population of 230,000. Boundaries and Extent. This state is bounded north by Massachusetts, east by Rhode Island, south by Long Island Sound, and west by New York. Situated between 40 58' and 42 1' north latitude, and 71 43' and 72 37' west longitude. Area, 4674 square miles. Government. The executive power is vested in a governor and lieutenant governor, the latter being also president of the Senate. The legislature, called the General Assembly, consists of a Senate, of not less than eighteen nor more than twenty-four members, and a House of Representatives ; most of the towns choosing two members each, and the residue but one. All state officers are elected annually by the people ; and the General Assembly con- venes once in each year, alternately at Hartford and New Haven. All white male citizens, twenty-one years of age, resident in the place where voting for six months next preceding, and having a freehold estate of the value of seven dollars ; or having performed regular military I 36 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. duty in such town for one year immediately previous to voting ; or having paid a tax within said year, are entitled to the right of suffrage, on taking the oath prescribed by law. Judiciary. The judicial department embraces the Supreme Court of Errors, the Superior Court, a County Court in each county, a City Court in each city, a Court of Probate in each probate district, and, as in other states in New England, an indefinite number of jus- tices of the peace in each county. The Court of Errors consists of five judges, appointed by the General Assembly, and holding their offices during their good behavior, but not beyond the age of seventy. It holds one term in each county annually, and has final jurisdiction of writs of error brought to revise judgments on decrees of the Superior Court. Two terms of the latter are held in each county annually, by some judge of the Supreme Court of Errors, designated for the purpose ; and these tribunals have cognizance of civil suits brought by appeal from any lower court, or brought for relief in chancery, where the sum at issue exceeds $335. They also have exclusive jurisdiction in capital cases of crime ; and, concurrent with the inferior courts, of all other offences not within the control of justices of the peace. They have cognizance, likewise, of writs of error, brought to revise decisions of lower courts : of petitions for divorce, and for new trials relative to matters in or issuing from these courts , and of writs of scire facias, &c. In trials for capital offences, one or more of the other judges of the Supreme Court must be called to assist. The County Courts consist of one chief judge, and two associate judges, appointed annually by the legislature. They have original jurisdic- tion of all civil actions at law, wherein the demand exceeds $35 ; and of all criminal cases, where the penalty does not exceed a fine of $7, or an imprisonment of 30 days, or both. Actions involving smaller sums or penalties than the foregoing come within the special jurisdiction of justices of the peace. The City Courts, composed of the mayor and two senior aldermen, have cognizance of all civil actions not involving land titles. Finances. The expenditures of the state for the financial year ending 1850 were $118,392-09, and the income $122,346-73. The banking capital, April 1, 1850, amounted to about $] 0,000,000. Education. In September, 1849, the date of the biennial exhibit, the school fund of the state amounted to $2,076,602-75 ; and the dividends for 1850 gave $1-50 for every enumerated child between four and sixteen years of age, of which the number is stated at about 92,000. The legislature, in 1849, appropriated $10,000 for the establishment of a state normal school, for " teaching teachers how to teach," to be placed under the control of one trustee from each of the eight counties. There are three colleges in the state, viz., Yale, founded in 1701, at Say- brook, and removed in 1717 to New Haven ; Washington,* at Hartford, founded in 1824 an Episcopalian institution; and the Wesleyan University, founded, in 1831, at Middletown, by the Methodists. These are all in a highly flourishing condition. There is an extensive Asylum for deaf mutes at Hartford, which has deservedly attained great celebrity ; also, in the same city, a Retreat for the Insane, which was opened in 1824, and is most happily managed There are also several academies of a high order in various parts of the state. At the taking of the census in 1840, it was found that the number of persons within the state, above the age of twenty, who were unable to read or write, was only 526, a much smaller proportion than in any other state, and but very few of these were native citizens. The school fund of Con- necticut is larger, compared with the population, than that of any other state of the Union, and the character of her school system is correspondingly excellent. Surface, Soil, Sfc. The state is divided into the following counties, viz. : Hartford, New Haven, New London, Fairfield, Windham, Middlesex, Litchfield, and Tolland. The face of the country is much diversified by hills and valleys, and is so exceedingly undulating as to present an ever-changing variety of objects. There are ranges of mountainous elevations, which take their rise in the north, and terminate near New Haven, but are not remarkable for their great height within this state. The soil varies from a gravelly loam, upon the hilly lands, to a rich and fertile alluvial in the valleys ; the former well adapted to grazing, and the latter to tillage. In possession of an industrious class of freemen, the land yields, in great * In 1845, the name was changed to Trinity College STATES AND TERRITORIES CONNECTICUT. 37 abundance, all the varieties of products common to the climate. Nearly every description of grain, flax, hemp, hay, potatoes, and garden vegetables of all kinds, are among the most pro- fuse of the agricultural products; orchards are also numerous, yielding apples, peaches, cherries, plums, and otfier fruits peculiar to this region. Climate. No portion of New England, contiguous to the sea-coast, possesses a more salu- brious climate than Connecticut. The raw easterly blasts, which annoy all residents upon the shores of Maine and Massachusetts, become greatly softened before reaching the southerly border of this, state. It is true that near the coast the weather is variable, and sudden changes of temperature occur, in accordance with the direction of the sea or land breezes ; but, in the interior, these fluctuations are far less frequent, the temperature becomes steady, and the climate healthful in consequence. Rivers. Connecticut is finely watered by the noble river whence its name is derived, by the Thames, Housatonic, Naugatuck, and numerous smaller streams, affording extraordi- nary facilities for commercial and manufacturing operations. Numerous bays ' and creeks penetrate its shore, affording commodious harbors : that at New London, one of the best in the United States, has a depth of 30 feet of water. Brooks and springs, of the purest water, abound throughout the interior. Several mineral springs exist in the state, especially at Stafford and Suffield, which have acquired much celebrity. Internal Improvements. There are numerous railroads completed within the state, com- prising an aggregate extent of somewhat over 500 miles ; others extend in various directions, into or out of the state ; and others still are in process of construction. Indeed, all requisite means for the extension of intercourse, and the promotion of internal and external commerce, are amply and generously provided, wherever and whenever the necessity becomes apparent ; such is the vigilant spirit of enterprise and industry which is constantly stimulating this people to works of general improvement and utility. Minerals. Iron ore, of various qualities, is obtained in several parts of the state. The town of Salisbury, bordering on Massachusetts and New York, is celebrated for its valuable iron mines. The ore procured in this region possesses a peculiarly tenacious property, admirably adapted to the manufacture of wire, anchors, and other articles wherein firmness and flexibility, without brittleness, are desirable. It has been worked for upwards of one hundred years, and the supply still seems inexhaustible, many thousand tons being extracted annually. Stafford, near the southern line of Massachusetts, abounds in bog-iron ore, of ex- cellent quality, suited to the manufacture of fine hollow- ware, and other castings. Marble of different kinds abounds in Milford, at the junction of the Housatonic with Long Island Sound. A quarry of serpentine, or " verde antique," of very beautiful texture, has been wrought for some time with much success. Vast quantities of reddish sandstone, much used in New York and other cities for building purposes, are quarried in Chatham, Portland, &c., on the Con- necticut. Copper ore is found in Granby, in certain caverns about 50 feet in depth, called the Simsbury mines once employed, for some forty years, as a prison, but now more liberally used for mining purposes. Another copper deposit has been discovered at Orange, near New Haven, where also a vein of silver was struck some years since, which, however, yielded too little to be deemed worth working. But few indications of coal are found in the state. Manufactures. The citizens of this state enjoy, in an eminent degree, the rare faculty of combining their great home interests those of agriculture, commerce, and manufactures in such manner as to make them happily support and advance each other. The products of their fields and forests, their orchards and dairies, their mines and quarries, are all subjects of domestic or foreign trade ; or are made to contribute in some way, either as raw material, or as means of exchange, to the improvement and growth of their numerous branches of mechan- ical industry. Although the traffic of Connecticut, especially the coasting trade, is extensive, in comparison with that of other states of like magnitude, her manufactures are of still greater extent. Establishments for the conversion of her unwrought products, of all descriptions, into articles fit for practical use, abound, and are still multiplying, throughout the state, together with others, for operating in like manner upon the imported products of other states and 38 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. countries. These comprehend woollen, cotton, and silk factories ; furnaces, forges, and rolling mills ; paper mills ; book-printing houses ; hat, cap, and bonnet factories ; tanneries, and other leather manufactories ; glass-houses, potteries, brick and lime kilns, granite and marble yards ; powder mills, chandleries, machine shops, furniture, carriage, and wagon manufactories ; flour, grist, and saw mills ; distilleries, manufactories of hardware, cutlery, tinware, clocks, &c. ; ropewalks, ship yards, &c., the whole employing many thousands of operatives, and many millions of capital. Indians. The once powerful and savage lords of this fair territory were long since swept away ; and if their descendants exist at all, it must be only among the dispersed and mixed vestiges of former tribes, of whose organization as nations or communities no traces now remain. Religion. The people of Connecticut, from the earliest settlement of its territory, have been distinguished for their religious character. In the primitive days of the colony, they were preeminently renowned for their strict adherence to, and enforcement of, the doctrine of church and state unity. Their statutes were based upon the Levitical code ; but the char- acter of that system, and of the sentiments, feelings, and practices of those who administered it, has become materially changed. The people of Connecticut still maintain a high position in the religious world. Religious denominations, of almost every variety, flourish in all quar- ters. Congregationalists, Baptists, Methodists, and Episcopalians, are the most numerous ; Universalists, Romanists, and Unitarians follow in order ; and there are a few Shakers. Curiosities. Connecticut abounds less in natural curiosities than in interesting antiquities. Old superstitions and traditions, romantic and supernatural events in the early colonial times, and reports of revolutionary marvels, are illustrated, in numerous localities, by alleged relics, and sometimes by actual documentary and topographical demonstrations. But these are mat- ters belonging rather to speculation than to facts and realities. DELAWARE. This small state was the first of the thirteen united American colonies to ratify and adopt the federal constitution, in 1789. It had been successively a Swedish settle- ment from 1627 to 1655, a province of the Dutch colony of New Amsterdam (or New York) for the next nine or ten years, then a dependency of New York, under the English, until 1682, and an adjunct of Pennsylvania for nearly a century thereafter, during which period it was known as the " three lower counties of the Delaware." In 1775, the nominal jurisdic- tion of the then proprietor of Pennsylvania was relinquished ; and in the following year, the STATES AND TERRITORIES. DELAWARE. 39 people having framed and established a constitution, Delaware became a distinct independent state, taking for its name that of its bay and river, which had been derived at an early date from Lord De La War, one of the first settlers of Virginia. Boundaries and Extent. The state is bounded north by Pennsylvania; east by the Atlantic Ocean and by the waters of Delaware Bay, which separate it from New Jersey ; and south and west by Maryland. It lies between 38 27' and 39 50 7 north latitude, and extends from 74 50' to 75 40' west longitude ; being 92 miles in length by about 23 in width, and having an area of 2120 square miles. Government. The existing constitution underwent material alteration and revision in 1831. By its provisions the governor is elected quadrennially, and can serve but one term. The senate is composed of nine members, (three for each county,) chosen for four years ; and the representatives, consisting of seven for each county, are elected every two years. The sessions of the legislature commence at Dover, the seat of government, on the first Tuesday of January in each alternate year. The executive and legislative elections are by popular vote ; and the qualifications of voters are similar to those in the New England States. Judiciary. The judicial power is vested in four judges (one of whom is chief justice ; the others associate law judges, residents of separate counties) and a chancellor, all appointed by the governor during good behavior. The chief justice and two associates constitute the Superior Court. No associate judge can sit within his own county. Inferior courts may be established by the legislature when requisite. The whole bench, including the chancellor, form a Court of Appeals ; and the powers of a Court of Chancery are vested in the latter magistrate, together with the resident judge of the county. Education. The state has provided, from various sources, a school fund, which yields an annual income of $20,000, applicable to the support of free schools ; provision being made for the erection and maintenance of at least one of these seminaries within every three square miles. An equal or greater amount is furthermore raised for educational purposes, by taxes and contributions in the several districts. Delaware College, at Newark, founded in 1833, is the only institution of this grade in the state. finances. Delaware owes nothing as a state, but possesses ample funds for all civil purposes, exclusive of those appropriated for schools. Surface and Soil. For the most part the face of the country is quite level. The only important elevations are certain ranges of table lands, in which the waters which flow from either side into the Chesapeake and Delaware, respectively, take their rise. These extend from the northern boundary, in a southern direction, gradually declining in height as they approach the central part of the state. In the southern and western quarters, as well as among the high lands above mentioned, there are extensive swamps. At the north, the soil consists of a strong clay, not very productive ; in other parts, it is light and sandy ; but there are large tracts of rich clayey loam, of great fertility. The agricultural products, besides excellent wheat and Indian corn, are rye and other grains, potatoes, and the usual abundance and variety of vegetable esculents peculiar to the Middle States. Fine grazing lands afford pasturage to multitudes of neat cattle, horses, and mules ; and the swampy tracts yield large quantities of timber, much of which is exported. Rivers. The principal navigable stream is the Delaware River, flowing into the bay of that name. There are also several large creeks and mill streams, running east and west from the central table lands, and emptying into the Chesapeake and Delaware Bays. Internal Improvements. Among these are the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal, fourteen miles in length, connecting Elk River, by way of Back Creek, with the Delaware. This was finished in 1829, at a cost of $2,750,000. Between Newcastle and Frenchtown, a railroad of sixteen miles forms the line of connection between the steamboat travel on the Chesapeake and Delaware Bays. It was completed in 1832, and cost $400,000. The great breakwater, erected by the general government, within Cape Henlopen, should, perhaps, be here alluded to. This is a work of vast magnitude, the expense of its construction having fallen lit f le short of two and a quarter millions of- dollars. 40 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. Manufactures. Wheat being the chief staple product, the most important of the home manufactures is naturally that of flour. A large amount of capital is also employed in cotton mills, and in the pursuit of divers other branches of domestic industry, such as the manufac- turing of iron, of leather, gunpowder, machinery, &c. Commerce. Wilmington, by reason of its good and safe harbor, and having in its imme- diate vicinity large numbers of capacious flour mills, has long been known as the most important commercial place in the state. It carries on a very extensive trade, especially in the article of flour ; and there are several ships belonging to this port which are actively engaged in the prosecution of the Pacific whale fishery. Climate. The geographical position of this state insures a medium temperature ; but, as in most of the other Middle States, the climate, though generally mild, is subject to variations, induced by differences in locality. The eleVated regions are undoubtedly far more favorable to health and longevity than the low, moist, and marshy tracts. Religion. Presbyterians and Methodists compose the most numerous of the religious denominations. Next in numbers are the Episcopalians and Baptists. There are also some Roman Catholics, and a few Friends or Quakers. Population* The progress of population in this state, for the last thirty years, has been exceedingly slow. From 72,674, in 1810, it had increased in 1850 to only 91,532. It is still the least populous state in the Union. COLUMBIA, DISTRICT OF. This tract, originally ten miles square, was ceded to the United States in 1790, by the States of Maryland and Virginia, for the purpose of being occupied as the seat of the federal government. The location was selected by President Washington, in conformity with a provision of the United States constitution. It is placed under the immediate jurisdiction of Congress, and, at the date of the cession, comprised the city of Alexandria, in Virginia, the city of Georgetown, Maryland, and the site on which now stands the city of Washington. The latter was established as the permanent capital of the Union, in the year 1800, and is consequently the principal residence of the president, heads of departments f and other chief officers of the government, foreign ambassadors, &c. In 1846, the geographical dimensions of the District were reduced by an act of Congress, retro- ceding the city and county of Alexandria to the State of Virginia. Boundaries and Extent. The District, as at present limited, containing less than two thirds of the original land surface, is bounded on the north-west, north-east, and south-east, by the STATES AND TERRITORIES. DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 41 counties of Montgomery and Prince George's, in Maryland ; on the south-west flows the Potomac, dividing it from Alexandria county, in Virginia that portion of the District which reverted to the latter state by the act of 1846. The two cities, Washington and Georgetown, are situated respectively on the east and north-east banks of the river, and are connected by two short bridges crossing Rock Creek, a small branch of the Potomac. Washington lies in latitude 38 53' 23" north, and longitude 77 1' 24" west from Greenwich, and covers an area of somewhat over eight square miles. The area of the entire District is now estimated at sixty square miles. Government. By the withdrawal of the county of Alexandria, the District became con- fined to the northerly or Maryland side of the Potomac, where the laws of Maryland are in force, excepting when superseded by special acts of Congress ; the power of legislating in the premises being vested in that body exclusively. The District has no local representative on the floor of the national legislature ; but every member is deemed to be alike interested in its general affairs. The two cities have distinct civil organizations ; they establish their own municipal laws, and regulate their own internal economy, in all matters not particularly provided for by Congress. Judiciary. The judicial tribunals consist of a Circuit Court of the District, with a chief judge and two associates ; a Criminal Court for the District, with one judge ; and an Orphans' Court, with a judge and register. The Criminal Court holds three terms a year, commencing respectively on the first Monday of March, the third Monday of June, and the first Monday of December. Education. Academies and grammar schools are tolerably well sustained, through private sources ; but the number of common and primary schools, supported at the public cost, might, with advantage, be increased. There is a college at Georgetown, maintained by Roman Catholics ; and another at Washington, called Columbian College, which is under the control of the Baptists. Finances. The public debt, at the close of the year 1840, amounted to one and a half million of dollars. The disbursements for public purposes, by the cities, often exceed the annual income, for various reasons ; and, having few or no sources of revenue besides direct taxation, appropriations to meet deficiencies are not unfrequently made by Congress. Surface, Soil, fyc. The land is generally hilly, but not mountainous. There are numerous alternating eminences and depressions, the former affording fine views, and the latter some- times consisting of bogs and marshes. The soil is not naturally very fertile, being commonly sandy and clayey, but is doubtless capable of great improvement, with a due degree of attention to agricultural science by practical husbandmen. It produces much good timber, and most of the indigenous shrubbery and plants peculiar to the bordering states, many of which are very beautiful. Rivers. The beautiful Potomac laves the south-western margin of the District for some miles, and receives, at the south-eastern edge of the city of Washington, the waters of a considerable stream, called the Eastern Branch. These are the only rivers or streams of note which flow within or along the District. The Potomac affords navigation for vessels of a large class, from the Atlantic shore to the navy yard, Washington, at the confluence of that river and its branch, and for craft of smaller descriptions up to Georgetown. Internal Improvements. The Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, one of the most important works of this kind in the country, commences at Georgetown. It was commenced in 1828, and connects the waters of the two great rivers whose names it bears. The United States con- tributed one million of dollars, the city of Washington a like sum, and the city of George- town two hundred and fifty thousand dollars towards its construction. Railroads pass from the city of Washington, both north and south. Manufactures. Within the present limits of the District, there are no manufactures of articles exclusively or chiefly for export ; most of the operations in this department of industry being confined to the fabrication of articles for family use and home consumption. Population. The number of inhabitants in the District varies at different seasons 42 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. especially those in the city of Washington. During the sessions of Congress, the population of the capital is of course far more numerous than at other periods ; that of Georgetown is comparatively much less fluctuating. Climate. Throughout most of the year, the climate is favorable to human health. The air is generally salubrious, and the water pure. In some locations, at the hottest seasons, diseases peculiar to the neighboring regions are apt to prevail ; but extensively fatal epi- demics are not common. Religion. The numerical proportions of the respective religious denominations stand, relatively, in the following order : 1. Presbyterians ; 2. Episcopalians ; 3. Methodists ; 4. Bap- tists ; 5. Roman Catholics ; 6. Quakers ; and, 7. Unitarians. FLORIDA. The credit of having discovered this peninsula, now the southernmost of the United States, is usually awarded to Juan Ponce de Leon, from Hispaniola, Avho explored it, to some extent, in 1512 and 1516, and gave to it the name which it still bears. The coast, however, had been visited, in 1497, by Sebastian Cabot, from England ; but its interior was not then examined. In 1539, an expedition from Cuba, commanded by Hernando de Soto, who had served with Pizarro, made a descent upon, and overran the country. In 1562, a body of French settlers, under Francis Ribault, endeavored to form a civilized colony ; but they were shortly assailed by the Spaniards, and, after several conflicts, nearly exterminated. The conquerors were afterwards obliged to contend frequently with the English colonists of Georgia and South Carolina ; but they maintained possession, though often attacked by both French and English forces, until 1763, the date of its cession to Great Britain. Liberal offers were immediately made to settlers from abroad ; and in consequence, numerous reputable citizens from the British settlements, and even a body of some 1500 people from the shores of the Mediterranean, were induced to emigrate. A portion of the territory, known as West Florida, was conquered by the Spanish governor of Louisiana in 1781 ; and the whole was surrendered to Spain by the treaty of Pans, in 1783. In 1819, the latter power trans- ferred the entire country, composing East and West Florida, to the United States, as remuneration for trespasses on American commerce. It was occupied by the authorities of the latter in 1820, and forthwith established as one of the territorial members of the American republic. It was erected into an independent state in 1845. Boundaries and Extent. Florida is bounded north by Georgia and Alabama, east by the Atlantic Ocean, south by the Gulf of Mexico, west by the same, and by a small portion of Alabama. It is situated between latitudes 25 and 31 north ; and extends from 80 west STATES AND TERRITORIES. FLORIDA. 43 longitude to 87 35' ; being 385 miles in length, with a breadth varying from 50 to 250 miles, and containing 59,268 square miles. Government. The people of Florida formed a constitution in 1839, six years prior to the admission of the state fnto the Union. The governor is elected for four years ; but is not eligible for two terms consecutively. The acting executive officer, in case of vacancy, is, first, the president of the Senate, and next, the speaker of the House of Representatives. Senators are elected for two years, and representatives for one year ; the latter not to exceed sixty in number. Clergymen, bank officers, and duellists are excluded from participation in the civil government. The right of suffrage is enjoyed by all free white males, of lawful age, after two years' residence. Laws for the emancipation of slaves, or for the prevention of their introduction into the state, are prohibited. The sessions of the legislature are held biennially. Judiciary. The state is divided into four circuits, each having a judge and a solicitor. They are chosen by the legislature, and have original common law jurisdiction in all civil and criminal matters. The Supreme Court consists of the circuit judges, and has appellate juris- diction only. The attorney general is elected by both houses of the legislature. The judges, in sessions of the Supreme Court, preside in their respective circuits. Education. No extensive system of common school education has yet been established. There are several academical institutions, and a number of grammar and primary schools, but no college in the state. Finances^. The revenue of the state is about sufficient to meet its expenditures. For in- formation concerning the public debt, &c., see Statistical Tables. Surface and Soil. Florida exhibits no very prominent elevations, the surface being gen- erally level, and towards the south, especially, singularly broken into alternate tracts of meadow lands, forest-crowned knolls, and grassy lagoons. The celebrated " everglades " are situated in this quarter of the country, and extend northerly nearly 200 miles from the southern extremity. Much of the territory is covered with pine timber ; although the live-oak, and other descriptions of hard wood, grow in abundance on the river banks. The quality of the soil is in many parts exceedingly rich. The " pine barrens," so called, are considered, however, as scarcely worth cultivating. The peculiarly open condition of the forests admits of the spontaneous and luxuriant growth of innumerable varieties of herbage and flowers, many of which are of the most beautiful description, and flourish in great profusion throughout all seasons of the year. The land, in nearly all parts of the state, is adapted to the culture of cotton, sugar, corn, rice, tobacco, and valuable fruits ; and there is much grazing land even among the pine barrens, which are also finely irrigated by numerous streams of pure water. Rivers. On the eastern coast, the St. John's is the principal stream. It takes its rise at a distance of not more than 150 miles from the sea, in a straight line ; though, from its meander- ing course, it probably flows more than twice that distance, varying in width from less than one to about five miles. The St. Mary's, which rises in Georgia, also empties into the Atlantic. The mouths of these rivers afford good harbors. On the western coast are numerous bays and inlets, furnishing safe shelter and anchorage for coasting craft. A large number of rivers enter the Gulf of Mexico from the western side of the peninsula, the chief of which is the Appalachicola. Internal Improvements. Several railroads have been constructed, and others are still con- templated. The most important already completed are, one between Tallahassee and St. Mark's, 22 miles ; and another of 30 miles in length, extending from St. Joseph to lola. A canal, entirely across the isthmus, has for many years been a subject of earnest consideration and active discussion. Such a work, it is universally conceded, would supply vast facilities to the commerce between Atlantic ports of the United States and the shores of 'the Gulf of Mex- ico, arid be the means of avoiding immense losses, now annually incurred by vessels forced to encounter the hazardous navigation beyond the southern point of Florida. Manufactures. Beyond the fabrication of articles for domestic use, but little capital is employed in manufacturing operations. The exports from the state consist principally of raw materials. 44 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER Indians. The territory, for some years subsequent to its cession to the United States, was much disturbed by contests with various Indian tribes. Among these, the Seminoles gave much trouble to the general government, and, on the question of their removal, with other natives, to the lands provided for them, were found to be most impracticable. They were, nowever, subdued, and a large portion of the tribe have retired to the far preferable coun- try assigned them beyond the Mississippi. Population. There was an increase of population, during the ten years prior to the census of 1840, of nearly sixty per cent. Of the inhabitants at that date, nearly one half were slaves. The ]ast census (1850) exhibits the same ratio of increase, but a somewhat smaller proportion of slaves. Climate. Except in the immediate vicinity of some of the large swamps, the interior of Florida, and the sea-coast generally, may be considered extremely favorable to health. In- deed, many parts of the state are much resorted to by invalids from northern localities, especially by persons subject to pulmonary affections, or laboring under certain chronic maladies. A mild and very uniform temperature prevails throughout the different seasons ; the heat of summer rarely raising the mercury above 90, or the cold of winter depressing it below freezing point. Epidemics, particularly the yellow fever, occasionally visit some of the low and marshy districts. The city of St. Augustine, occupying a remarkably fine geograph- ical position, is widely celebrated for the salubrity of its atmosphere, the genial qualities and effects of which are not exceeded by those of any spot in Southern France or Italy. Religion. Episcopalians, Presbyterians, Methodists, and Roman Catholics constitute the principal religious denominations. Neither sect is very numerous. Curiosities. Among the natural objects of curiosity may be mentioned the existence and frequent formation of beautiful rivulets, the pellucid waters of which, after coursing through many devious curves for a long distance, suddenly disappear in some dark abyss, and all traces of their farther wanderings are lost to human eyes. On the other hand, vast volumes of water are often seen to emerge from the depths of the earth, at once forming navigable rivers, teeming with fish, turtles, alligators, &c. Both these phenomena are said to be common in some parts of the state, and in all probability are mutually connected by subterranean channels. GEORGIA, the most recently settled of the thirteen original American colonies, which united in the great national act of independence, July 4, 1776. At that epoch, only about one third of a century had elapsed since the entire territory was the exclusive abode of the savage the first English immigrants, under General Oglethorpe, having, in the year 1734, STATES AND TERRITORIES. GEORGIA. 45 commenced a settlement at the spot whereon the city of Savannah now stands. This company was composed chiefly of necessitous artisans and tradesmen, driven from Great Britain by want of employment to seek out new modes of living, and more permanent homes, in the western hemisphere. They had -previously received from George II. a grant of the vast tract of country (called Georgia, after their royal patron) out of which the present States of Alabama and Mississippi, as well as Georgia, have since been formed. Although the original charter of Carolina included this whole territory, the Spanish occupants of Florida had laid claim to it, and, in 1742, undertook by force of arms to dispossess the English, but without success. In 1752, the company relinquished its charter to the crown, and thenceforth the province was placed upon an equal footing with the other colonies. Boundaries and Extent. Bounded north by parts of Tennessee and North Carolina, east by South Carolina and the Atlantic Ocean, south by Florida, and west by Alabama. It extends 300 miles from north to south, with an average breadth of 200 miles, and includes an area of 58,000 square miles. Latitude, 30 22' to 35 north ; longitude, 80 50 7 to 85 40' west. Government. In 1777 the people of Georgia established their first frame of state govern- ment. A second constitution was formed in 1785, and a third in 1798, which was revised in 1839, and still remains in force. The chief magistrate is elected biennially by the popular suffrages. In apportioning the representatives on the basis of population, three fifths of the blacks are reckoned in the estimate. There are 46 senatorial districts, each entitled to one member of the Senate ; and the 93 counties into which the state is divided send each from one to three representatives to the legislature, which meets biennially at Milledgeville, the seat of government, where the governor and other executive officers are required to reside during their official terms. The right of suffrage is restricted to free white males, residents of the state for six months, and tax-payers one year prior to the election. Education. The subject of common education is but partially provided for, as may be inferred from the fact that in 1840 there were in the state upwards of 30,000 white persons above the age of 20 years who could neither read nor write. There is a literary institution at Athens, called the University of Georgia, which was founded in 1788, with the design of establishing branches in each county. The object, however, has been but imperfectly carried out. Judiciary. The Supreme Court consists of a chief justice and two judges, elected by the legislature for six years. There are eleven circuit judges, one for each of the circuits into which the state is divided. These courts have exclusive jurisdiction in criminal and land cases. Inferior courts, composed of five justices, are held in each county. These latter officers are elected by the people quadrennially, and act also as probate judges. Finances. The annual revenues of Georgia are amply sufficient to meet the current expenditures, including about $110,000 interest on the state debt, and a reserve of $70,000 towards a sinking fund for its ultimate extinction. The public debt in 1850 was stated at $1,828,472, and was incurred for the construction of the Western and Atlantic Railway. Surface, Soil, fyc. The face of the country, along the Atlantic coast, for some 30 to 40 miles in breadth, is generally level, with a rich soil, favorable to the cultivation of cotton and rice. The numerous islands on the eastern frontier are especially productive of that fine species of cotton known as sea island. Westward of the above tract, the land becomes more elevated, and the soil more sandy. Proceeding still farther into the interior, and beyond the mountainous region, a stronger and richer soil is found, which produces in abundance wheat, corn, and other grains ; tobacco, cotton, and a great variety of fruits, as the orange, fig, pome- granate, lemon, citron, olive, melon, peach, pear, and grape. The latter fruit, of the finest flavor, grows spontaneously and luxuriantly among the pine barrens, in the vicinity of the sea- coast. Of the divers descriptions of fine timber composing the extensive forests of Georgia, the oak, hickory, cedar, and pine are the most common. The black walnut and mulberry are also abundant upon the high lands. The northern part of the state is traversed by a portion of the Appalachian chain of mountains. Rivers. Many of the rivers in Georgia are of great length ; for instance, the Savannah, 46 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. which separates this state from South Carolina, is 500 miles long ; the Alatamaha, 400 miles to its sources ; Flint River, the Chattahoochee, and others. These are generally navigable for steamers and large boats through a considerable portion of their extent ; and some of them, especially those emptying into the Atlantic, admit the passage of large vessels for several miles above their mouths. Internal Improvements. These consist of several important canals and railroads, either completed or still in progress. Among them may be enumerated the Savannah and Ogeechee, and the Brunswick Canals, the former 16, and the latter 12 miles long, the Georgia Rail- road, with its branches and projected continuations ; the Central Railroad, and the Munroe Railroad, the whole forming a connected series, and embracing an aggregate extent of upwards of 500 miles. Minerals. On the borders of the Chattahoochee River, at the base of the Blue Ridge, con- siderable quantities of gold have been found ; and numerous smelting houses, employing some hundreds of persons, are established in the vicinity, although the business of mining has not been very regularly pursued. Copper and iron ores, the latter in great abundance, are also among the mineral productions of the state. Manufactures. A number of /cotton mills, and some woollen factories, have been erected within a few years. Manufactures of cast iron and other hardware, machinery, leather, car- riages, furniture, soap, candles, brick, lime, &c., are carried on to some extent, principally for home consumption. There are numerous flouring mills, distilleries, and breweries, portions of the products of which are exported. Indians. Some parts of the territory are still in the occupancy of the Creek Indians. The Cherokees also inhabit a large tract at the north-west boundary, their country extending also into Tennessee and Alabama. Population. About one third of the inhabitants of Georgia are of African descent. Climate. The interior and elevated parts of Georgia enjoy a delightful and salubrious climate, not excelled, perhaps, by that of any other region of like extent in North America. As in most of the southern states of the Union, there are extensive tracts of low and swampy grounds, which, at certain seasons, are subject to destructive epidemics, arising from noxious exhalations and impure water. The upper country, however, to which many of the inhabitants retreat during the unhealthy months, is remarkably exempt from these injurious influences. The winters, which are of but two or three months' duration, are generally so mild that vege- tation is but little interrupted, and cattle roam at large upon the savannas and in the forests, where they find ample food. Snow and severe frosts are rare, although the thermometer occasionally indicates a temperature as low as 20 Fahrenheit. Religion. The religious denominations in Georgia are chiefly Baptists, Methodists, Epis- copalians, and Presbyterians. There are also some congregations of Romanists, Lutherans, Fnends, and Jews. STATES AND TERRITORIES. ILLINOIS. 47 ILLINOIS. This comparatively young member of the American Union was, never- theless, partially settled, by civilized adventurers, as early as the year 1673. A party of enterprising Frenchmen from Canada accompanied M. De la Salle in his second exploration of the country, in the above year, when in search of the River Mississippi, and founded the vil- lages of Kaskaskias and Cahokia. These settlements continued to flourish for some years ; but the people, by constant intercourse with the surrounding savages, gradually reduced themselves to a semi-barbarous condition, and for a long period their numbers were but little augmented by immigration. By the treaty of peace between the French and English, in 1763, the Illinois country, together with Canada, was ceded by the former to the latter, who took formal possession two years afterwards. It remained in their hands, under several successive mili- tary governors, until 1778 ; in which year a body of Virginia troops, commanded by General Clarke, penetrated the country, and subdued all the fortified places. In the same year, a county called Illinois was organized by the legislature, and placed under the care of a deputy governor. The country had been considered, hitherto, as a part of the territory included in the charter of Virginia ; and the claim founded thereon was recognized by the treaty of 1783. Virginia, however, ceded it to the United States, four years afterwards, when it constituted a section of the " North-west Territory," so called. In 1800, it received a separate organiza- tion and a territorial government, in conjunction with, and under the name of, Indiana. Another division took place in 1809, when the distinct territories of Indiana and Illinois were formed ; both of which were subsequently admitted into the Union, as independent states the former in 1816, and the latter in 1818. The name of the state is derived from that of its great central river an aboriginal appellation, signifying the River of Men. Boundaries and Extent. The state is bounded north by Wisconsin ; east by the southern portion of Lake Michigan, by the State of Indiana, and by the Ohio River, dividing it from Kentucky also on the south ; and west by the Mississippi, which separates it from the States of Missouri and Iowa. Its extreme length is some 380 miles, extending from 37 to 42 north latitude. Its breadth varies from about 145 to 220 miles, being widest in the centre, and narrowest at the northern and southern points. Its utmost reach of longitude is 4 degrees, viz., from 87 to 91, west from Greenwich. Its area is computed at 55,400 square miles, of which near 50,000 are believed to be well adapted to agricultural purposes. Government. The chief magistrate is chosen for four years, by the people, viva voce, and cannot serve two terms in succession. The lieutenant governor (who is, ex officio. president of the Senate) and the senators are also elected quadrennially. The members of the House of Representatives are elected for two years. The popular elections and the legislative 4S UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. sessions are held biennially. The Senate cannot consist of less than one third, nor more than one half, the number compqsing the other branch. All white males above the age of 21 years, who have resided six months within the state, are qualified voters. Slavery is prohibited by the constitution to amend which instrument a convention must be called. Elections are decided by a plurality of votes. Judiciary. The judicial power is vested in a Supreme Court, composed of three justices, and such other courts as the legislature may create. One session of the Supreme Court is held annually, in each of the three judicial divisions of the state. The state is also divided into nine circuits, each having a resident judge and a state's attorney. Five of these judges constitute a quorum. They are elected by the General Assembly, and hold office during good behavior. The state's attorneys are chosen for two years. Inferior courts are also held by probate judges and justices of the peace. The Supreme Court judges, together with the governor, compose a council of revision, with power to disapprove bills passed by the General Assembly, subject, however, to further legislative action, whereby a rejected bill may, never- theless, become a law when reenacted by a majority of members elect in both branches. Education. The act of admission to the Union provides for a reservation of one thirty-sixth part of all the public lands, for school purposes ; and section numbered 16 has been accord- ingly designated and set apart, in each township, for the benefit of its inhabitants. A common fund, for the promotion of education generally, was also established by the United States government, through the annual payment to the state of 3 per cent, of the net avails of the public lands within its limits. Of this fund, a sixth part is appropriated to the erection and support of a collegiate institution. Other funds, to a very generous extent, have like- wise been provided ; from all which sources a large annual income is derived. Yet the sub- ject of common schools has not received that degree of regard and attention which its immeasurable importance demands ; although there are, in many towns, primary schools of fair character, and occasionally a seminary of higher grade. Several colleges exist ; but they are mostly exclusive or somewhat sectarian in their organization ; each of the following denominations having a special institution, viz., Old School Presbyterians, New School Pres- byterians, Baptists, and Methodists. One of these, at Alton, was liberally endowed byDr. B. Shurtleff, of Boston, Massachusetts, and bears his name. There are a number of respectable academies and literary associations in various parts of the state ; and it is to be hoped that measures will be taken to establish the school fund of the state on a basis corresponding to the liberality of Congress, and to the example set by Ohio and other neighboring states. Finances. The total amount of the public debt on the 1st of January, 1851, was $16,627,507,91, nearly one half of which grew out of the construction of the Illinois and Michigan Canal. This latter item will be partially if not wholly liquidated by sales of canal lands, and by future receipts for tolls. The state is now able, from its revenues, for the first time in several years, to meet its current expenditures. Surface, Soil, fyc. There are no lofty mountains in this state, although at its northern and southern extremes the land is considerably elevated, and occasionally broken. In general, the surface is level, or slightly undulating, about two thirds of the whole consisting of immense prairies, clothed luxuriantly with grass, herbage, delicious strawberries, and other wild berries, and resplendent with myriads of indigenous flowers, flourishing in all the beauty of "nature unadorned." No impenetrable forests encumber these vast tracts, although isolated patches of woodland, some of them covering many acres, are frequently found in their midst. In some quarters of the state, timber is sufficiently abundant; in others, there is a deficiency. The most common descriptions are the oak, hickory, maple, elm, ash, locust, beech, poplar, sycamore, and various other woods. The soil is almost invariably fertile, often of the finest and richest quality, to a great depth. The products of the earth are of corresponding value and amount Every variety of grain, and of edible vegetables, together with hemp, flax, cotton, and tobacco, are cultivated with extraordinary success. All the fruits common to the temperate latitudes are produced in abundance : STATES AND TERRITORIES. ILLINOIS. 49 grapes, especially, natives of the soil, are remarkably plentiful in most parts of the state, and of fine quality, capable of yielding excellent wines. The fecundity of the land, and the gen- erous returns with which it rewards even the moderate labors of the husbandman, may be inferred from the fact ttfat in almost all parts of the state an average crop, per acre, can be obtained, of fifty bushels of Indian corn one of its important staples ; and instances are frequent where the product reaches 75 to 100 bushels. Rivers. Illinois is provided most bountifully by nature with admirable facilities for com- munication by water, not only within, but far beyond, its own borders, by means of its numerous inland streams, tending in every direction towards, and connecting with, the great western rivers, and by its immediate contact, on the north-east, with Lake Michigan. The whole of its western boundary is washed by the mighty Mississippi, and the noble Ohio flows along a portion of its eastern frontier. The Illinois traverses a large part of the state from north-east to south-west, and its tributaries course through most of the central counties. Some of these branches are of great extent. Among the other important rivers are Rock, Kaskaskia, Wabash, &c. Infernal Improvements. The canal for uniting the navigable waters of the Illinois with those of Ijake Michigan, at Chicago, is one of the greatest enterprises of the kind in the Western States. Its computed extent is 10(5 miles, and its cost upwards of $8,000,000. When fully completed, the waters of the Gulfs of St. Lawrence and of Mexico may be said to meet each other, through a long chain of inland channels. Under the system of internal improvement adopted by the state, in 1837, a number of extensive and important railroads were projected, the work on most of which has been commenced, and some few are in travelling order. Minerals. At the north-west angle of the state lie immense beds of lead ore, of which great quantities are annually smelted and sent to market. Copper and iron are also found in abundance in many parts of the state ; and in the southern quarter, there are several sections of the public lands which are reported to be rich in silver ore, and in consequence are with- held from sale. Lime, salt, and coal are among the most plentiful of the mineral productions. Limestone ledges of great extent exist for many miles along the banks of the Mississippi, often rising abruptly and perpendicularly, in huge bluffs, to a height of 300 feet. In the south and east parts of the state, there are numerous saline springs, so strongly impregnated as to render profitable the manufacture of salt on an extensive scale in their vicinity. The elevated and broken regions towards the north, particularly in the neighborhood of Rock River, contain exhaustless veins of bituminous coal ; and the bluffs and ravines on the river banks, in Madison and St. Clair counties, at the south-west quarter of the state, are pregnant with treasures of this valuable mineral. Manufactures. Hydraulic power to a considerable extent is attainable at various points of the state, some of which is already advantageously improved for manufacturing purposes. The contemplated improvements of the Wabash and other rivers some of which are already in progress will furnish additional water privileges of great value. Steam mills, for sawing lumber, manufacturing flour, &c., as well as mills wrought by animal and water power, are common throughout the state. There are also numerous smelting houses, iron furnaces, tan- neries, potteries, distilleries, &c., together with a few cotton, woollen, and flax factories ; and almost every article of domestic use is or may be fabricated within the state. Among the few commodities principally manufactured for export are whiskey and castor oil : some 40,000 to 50,000 gallons of the latter are annually expressed from the palma christi, or castor bean, at a single establishment in Edwardsville. Indians. Few or none of the descendants of the tribes formerly occupying this region now linger within or around it, their titles having been extinguished, from time to time, by various treaties with the United States government The white inhabitants were somewhat annoyed by hostile Indians during the war of 1812 ; but after its close, the country was exempt from molestation until 1832, when a band of sanguinary savages, led on by the noto- rious chief Black Hawk, committed many bloody atrocities, and created much distress and 7 50 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. alarm, at the northern part of the state. They were at length entirely quelled, and finally removed to the country west of the Mississippi. Population. During the thirty years prior to 1840, the population of Illinois increased from 12,282 to 476,183, of whom 3600 were persons of color. In 1850, the population was 851,470, of whom 5366 were persons of color. Climate. In general, the climate of Illinois, in its influence upon health, does not differ materially from that of the other states, lying within the same parallels, east of the Alle- ghany ridge. It furthermore enjoys the advantage of exemption from annoying easterly winds, although the prairie breezes are often severely cold. The temperature, ordinarily, is much like that of Ohio and Michigan during the respective seasons. The length of the winter is usually somewhat less than three months. Snow seldom falls to a great depth, or continues upon the earth many days in succession ; and the ground is commonly free from frost throughout half the winter. The early spring months are rainy and unpleasant ; but they are soon succeeded by a milder season, a warm and cheering summer, with an invigorating atmosphere ; and, finally, " the year is crowned " by a delightful autumn of some months' duration, rarely dis- turbed by a cloudy day or a stormy hour. Religion. The most numerous sect are the Methodists, including their different varieties. Then follow the Baptists and Presbyterians, with their several ramifications. The Episcopa- lians, Lutherans, and Dunkards have each from eight to twelve congregations ; and there are small societies of Roman Catholics, Quakers, and Mormons. The proportion of profess- ors of religion has been estimated at about one tenth of the whole population. INDIANA. The history of the settlement of Indiana is nearly identical with that of its twin sister, Illinois, and of much of the vast surrounding region formerly included in the so- called North-west Territory. The first permanent occupancy of the country was effected in 1702, at a fertile spot on the eastern bank of the Wabash, about 100 miles above its confluence with the Ohio. To this place, which became a fortified trading post, its inhabitants afterwards gave the name of Vincennes. The original settlers were French soldiers from Canada, belonging to the army of Louis XIV. Their descendants remained an almost isolated community, in- creasing very slowly in numbers, for nearly one hundred years, and, in the mean time, from habits of constant intercourse with their Indian neighbors exclusively, with whom they often STATES AND TERRITORIES. INDIANA. 51 intermarried, had imbibed a taste for savage life, and had consequently retrogressed in the march of civilization. By the treaty of peace between France and England, in 1763, the territory became subject to the latter; from which power, however, it was wrested by tne Americans during the "revolutionary war. From the close of that struggle, in 1783, until General Wayne's treaty in 1795, and again just before the commencement of the second war with Great Britain, the people, generally residing in hamlets and villages remote from each other, were terribly harassed by the incursions of the Indians, who committed the most cruel atrocities. These merciless barbarians were at length effectually conquered and humbled by the United States military forces under General Harrison ; a season of quietude and prosperity immediately ensued, and a vast tide of immigration has been flowing into the state since the peace of 1815. Indiana was originally embraced in the territory north-west of the Ohio, and BO remained until the year 1800. It was then, including the present State of Illinois, newly organized under the name of Indiana Territory. In 1809, it was divided into two territories, Illinois having been set off, and became an independent state in 1816. Boundaries and Extent. The state is bounded north by Michigan and the southern portion of the lake of that name ; east by the State of Ohio ; south-east and south by Ohio River, which divides it from Kentucky ; and west by Illinois, the Wabash River forming part of the boundary. It lies between 37 47' and 41 50' north latitude, and its mean length is esti- mated at 260 miles ; its mean breadth is about 140 miles, extending from 84 45' to 88 west longitude. Its area comprehends nearly 34,000 square miles. Government. The executive power resides in a governor and lieutenant governor, the latter being president of the Senate, and acting as governor in cases of vacancy. The legis- lature consists of two branches, Senate and House of Representatives, apportioned to the counties, according to the number of qualified electors, in such ratio that the number of representatives shall not be less than 36 nor more than 100. The Senate is never to contain less than 12 nor more than 50 members. All the above are elected by the people triennially, except the representatives, who are chosen every year. The legislature convenes annually. The chief magistrate cannot hold office longer than six years in any term of nine years. The secretary of state, treasurer, and auditor are chosen by the General Assembly in joint ballot, the first for a term of four years, and the two latter for three years. Judiciary. The judicial power is vested in a Supreme Court, in Circuit Courts, Courts of Common Pleas, Probate Courts, and justices of the peace. The Supreme Court is composed of three judges, the senior in office being chief justice, and are appointed for seven years by the governor and Senate. The Circuit Courts are thirteen in number, and consist of a pres- ident judge for each judicial circuit, acting with two associate judges in each county : the president judges are elected for seven years by the legislature, and the associate judges for the same term by the people. Judges of probate, justices of the peace, sheriffs, and coroners are chosen by the people, for various terms. Education. Attention to this important interest has been considerably awakened within a few years. A common school fund, to be derived from various sources, was founded by a law of the state in 1849, at which time the several funds set apart for the purpose were valued at upwards of $700,000. By the census of 1840, there were within the state over 38,000 white persons, above the age of 20 years, who could neither read nor write. Asylums for the blind, the deaf and dumb, and the insane, have been established. There are several colleges, and numerous academies, in various parts of the state. Finances. The annual revenue of Indiana is amply sufficient for the ordinary current expenditures. The amount of the public debt in July, 1849, was more than $12,000,000, the liability for which is nearly equally divided between the state and the Wabash and Erie Canal Company. Surface, Soil, &fc. The face of the country, though not mountainous, is in some quarters hilly and broken. The greater portion of the state, by far, consists of immense tracts of level lands, studded at intervals with picturesque clusters of trees. Many of the upland prairies are skirted for long distances with noble forests, while those bordering upon the rivers are 52 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. rarely productive of any description of timber. The whole earth is replete with vegetable wealth. Upon the prairies there is, at the proper seasons, intermingled with gay and odorous flowers, a thick covering of grass, growing to a height of seven or eight feet. The soil of the prairies, as well those which are elevated as those which lie along the rivers, is surpassingly rich, the loam commonly reaching to a depth of two to five feet. The trees of native growth comprise several varieties of oak, walnut, maple, elm, sycamore, beech, ash, linden, locust, sassafras, buckeye, cottonwood, cherry, and mulberry. The most important of the cultivated products are wheat, Indian corn, rye, and other grains, potatoes, and various other esculents. Grapes, and indeed fruits of all kinds peculiar to the climate, grow profusely. Among the many valuable staples of this state are large quantities of beef, pork, butter, cheese, sugar, wool, tobacco, and hemp. Rivers. The entire state is admirably watered by large and beautiful streams, many of them navigable for hundreds of miles. Among the most considerable rivers, besides the Ohio, are the Wabash, a tributary of the former ; White River, a branch of the Wabash, with its two great forks ; Whitewater, St. Joseph's, &c. Internal Improvements. The Wabash and Erie Canal, 187 miles in length, connecting the navigable waters of the River Wabash with those of Lake Erie, is the most important enterprise of the kind in which this state has been concerned. Nearly 100 miles of its extent are in Indiana, and the residue in Ohio. The whole was completed in 1843. The Whitewater Canal, a work of much less magnitude, is partially completed, and several additions are con- templated. A railroad, commencing at Indianapolis, connects the capital with three or four different points on the Ohio, a distance of about 100 miles. From the same point of beginning, another road, partly macadamized, extends northwardly to Michigan city. Other railroads have been projected, some of which are in course of construction. Minerals. The mineral resources of this state have been but partially explored or developed. Iron is known to exist in various quarters, and some copper has been found. Salt springs have been opened, at which salt in considerable quantities has been manufactured. Epsom salts, and saltpetre in a pure state, have been quite plentifully obtained from caves in Craw- ford and Harrison counties. Coal in abundance has been recently excavated from the bluffs near the Ohio, in Perry county. At a place called Cannelton, the deposits are extremely productive, yielding in profusion a very superior quality of bituminous coal, resembling, in all its characteristics, the celebrated English Cannel coal. Manufactures. The business of manufacturing has not been pursued largely, except for domestic uses. Cotton and woollen fabrics are extensively manufactured in families through- out the state ; and there are also a number of fulling mills, woollen and cotton factories, iron furnaces, tanneries, potteries, breweries, flouring and saw mills, &c. Indians. The various tribes formerly inhabiting this region have yielded to the advances of their civilized successors, parted with their native right to the soil, and sought other homes farther west. Population. The population of Indiana, since the year 1825, has increased with unexam- pled rapidity. At that date, the number of inhabitants was estimated at 185,000. It is now, in (1850,) 988,416. Among the causes which have conduced to attract settlers thither, the extraordinary fertility of the soil, the low price of lands, the facilities for inland water com- munication, and the healthful climate, are doubtless among the most prominent. Climate. Residents of the country characterize the climate as generally mild and salu- brious. In summer, the temperature is genial and uninterrupted by injurious changes. The winters are neither long nor severe, six weeks being considered as their average duration. Frosts, however, are common in spring and autumn. Fevers and agues prevail only in marshy places, and in the neighborhood of stagnant waters. Religion. In "modes of faith" there is much diversity. The most numerous classes of Christians are Methodists, Presbyterians, and Baptists ; there are also considerable num- bers of Lutherans, Episcopalians, Roman Catholics, and Friends. Curiosities. Among the most remarkable curiosities of the state are the mineral caves STATES AND TERRITORIES. INDIAN TERRITORY. 53 already alluded to, and the multitudes of singular mounds scattered over the face not only of Indiana, but most of the Western States, supposed by many to have been ancient Indian for- tifications, by others conjectured to be places of sepulture, and by some to be tumuli produced solely by natural causes. INDIAN TERRITORY (PROPER) is a large and fertile region, lying geographically in the centre of the North American republic, midway between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. It was allotted, and has been at different times enlarged, by the government of the United States, for the purpose of affording places of permanent residence for those Indian tribes who might emigrate from the states east of the Mississippi River. These emigrants are protected in the enjoy- ment of their own institutions, and many of the tribes have established forms of government independent of the United States laws, in all matters not connected with the preservation of peace between the tribes and upon tiie frontier. It extends from Platte River, in about 41 north latitude, to Red River, in 34 ; is between 500 and GOO miles in length, and about 300 miles in breadth, and its area may be estimated at some 150,000 square miles. Its limits, however, are not exactly determined on the north or the west ; it being generally understood that the Indian Territory, so called, comprehends that region which is permanently settled by Indian communities, as distinguished from the wide waste beyond its present northern and western borders, which is peopled by wandering bands of untutored natives. It is definitely bounded on the east by the States of Missouri and Arkansas, and on the south by the State of Texas, wherefrom it is separated by the Red River. The soil throughout this territory is very generally productive. It is watered by numerous streams, few, if any of which, however, afford facilities for navigation. The principal rivers, besides those mentioned as forming the northern and southern boundaries, are the Kanzas and Canadian, with their multitudes of forks or tributaries. Some of these take their rise in the Rocky Mountains, and all flow eastwardly, ultimately emptying either directly or by way of the Missouri into the great " Father of Rivers," the mighty Mississippi. The face of the country presents but few mountainous prominences, although the land is generally high and swelling, especially in the south-eastern quarter, w r here are situated several ranges of large hills. Corn and other grains, vegetables, fruits, and all the agricultural prod- ucts peculiar to the states lying eastward on the same parallel, may be cultivated with ample success. Timber is not abundant ; but, with ordinary attention, such trees as are needed may be easily raised. The grassy prairies afford room for forests, and experiments already made demonstrate their adaptation to the rapid growth of wood. Lead and iron ores, coal, and saline springs are found in different parts of the territory. The country is admirably fitted for the raising of stock and domestic animals of all descriptions. The climate is represented as re- markably pleasant and salubrious, varying but little from that of the regions east of the Mississippi, whence the present inhabitants were removed. Tlio number of resident Indians may be reckoned at about 100,000, three fourths of whom are emigrants from beyond the eastern shore of the Mississippi. The population is constantly being augmented by additional removals of Indians from the east, under treaty stipulations with the United States. The most numerous, as well as the most advanced in civilization, of the tribes now settled in the territory, are the Cherokees, Choctaws, Creeks, Chickasaws, and Shawanees. These have established appropriate forms of government for themselves, some of them having written constitutions, and have made provision for the support of education, of public worship, of courts of justice, &c., similar to those of all well-organized communities. 54 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER Their dwellings are generally comfortable, their lands well tilled, and most of their natural facilities and advantages properly applied and improved. Large numbers of horses and cattle are owned among them ; mercantile, mechanical, and manufacturing pursuits are carried on to considerable extent, especially by the Cherokee population ; and one or more steamboats, the property of some of the latter, ply between their district and New Orleans. The United States support several military posts within the territory, which are all kept gar- risoned. Missionaries, from the various religious organizations in the states, have established stations at many points, who labor not only for the moral improvement, but for the literary and physical advancement, of the people. At the Shawanee station, under control of the Baptists, books in different Indian languages have been printed and issued ; journals and other works have also been published in the Shawanee dialect. A very respectably con- ducted newspaper is supported by the Cherokees, the editor of which is an educated native. In compensation for the lands which were vacated by the transfer of these tribes to their present locality, the United States paid, or stipulated to pay, between the years 1789 and 1839, in money or in lands exchanged or reserved, upwards of $80,000,000. The number of acres of land thus acquired is about 420,000,000. The emigrants also receive consider- able annuities, from which they derive a portion of their means of subsistence. IOWA, recently a dependency of the United States, is now an admitted member of the Federal Union. Until 1832, the country was held in undisputed possession by its rude and roaming Indian inhabitants, of whom it was then purchased ; and settlements were soon thereafter commenced by civilized emigrants. In 1838, having been set off from Wisconsin, it was organized under a distinct territorial government ; and in 1846, the territory was duly elevated to the position of a free and independent American state. Boundary and Extent. Iowa is bounded north by the Territory of Minnesota; east by the Mississippi River, which separates it from the States of Wisconsin and Illinois ; south by the State of Missouri ; and west and north-west by portions of the Territories of Nebraska and Minnesota, from which it is separated by the Missouri and the Big Sioux Rivers. The country lies between 40 3(X and 43 30' north latitude, and extends from 90 3(X to 96 30> west lon- gitude ; reaching some 200 miles from north to south, with an average extent of over 220 miles from east to west, and comprehending about 51,000 square miles. STATES AND TERRITORIES. 10 WA. 55 Government. The executive power resides in a governor and lieutenant governor, chosen by popular vote for two years : the latter is president of the Senate. The legislature com- prises a Senate and House of Representatives, the former chosen for four years, one half biennially, and in number not less than one third nor more than one half that of the other branch. The constitution provides that the House of Representatives shall not consist of less than 26 nor more than 39 members, until the white population shall amount to 125,000 ; when the minimum shall be 36, and the maximum 72. All free white male American citizens, after a residence of six months, are voters. Judiciary. The Supreme Court is composed of a chief justice and two associates, either two of whom form a quorum. They are elected by joint vote of the legislature for six years. District judges are elected for five years by the people, in the several districts. Probate judges, prosecuting attorneys, and clerks of courts are also elected in the same manner, every two years. Education. A superintendent of public instruction is chosen by the people for three years. A large school fund is secured by the appropriation of lands granted by Congress, escheated estates, and the percentage allowed by Congress on sales of public lands within the state. Common schools in all the school districts are also maintained, by law, from other sources of revenue. There is also a large fund assigned for the support of a university. The permanent school fund, at interest, in 1850, amounted to about $279,000. Finances. The state holds productive property valued at upwards of $11,000,000. Its debt, in 1849, was $55,000, incurring an interest of $5500. The legislature holding biennial sessions only, the annual public expenditure is only about $19,000. The taxable property, in 1849, was valued at $18,479,751, which pays to the state a tax of three tenths of one per cent. Surface and Soil. With the exception of some high hills in the northern part, the surface is nowhere mountainous, but consists of table ^ands, prairies, and gently swelling eminences covered with timber. Ranges of bluffs, from 30 to 120 feet in height, intersected with ravines, generally terminate the table lands upon the borders of rivers. The soil is almost universally good, reaching to a depth of 18 to 24 inches on the upland prairies, and from 24 to 48 inches on the bottom lands. Constant cultivation for a century would scarcely exhaust it. It produces every description of grain and vegetables suited to the climate, and is pecu- liarly favorable to the growth of fruit. Timber is not abundant, except in certain sections, comprising* in all about one fourth part of the state. But the country is so well supplied with river navigation, that this deficiency in other quarters is not felt. Among the indigenous fruits are vast quantities of plums, grapes, strawberries, crab apples, &c. The crops of wheat ordinarily amount to 30 or 35 bushels per acre ; and the yield of corn is from 50 to 75 bushels. Wells of excellent water are obtained at a depth of 25 to 30 feet. Rivers. Besides the noble rivers which skirt the state on the east and west, there are several streams of considerable magnitude, with numerous branches, pervading the entire territory. Many of them are extensively navigable, and afford fine water power ; and all are immediately or remotely connected with the Mississippi or the Missouri. Internal Improvements. A project for constructing a railroad, commencing at Dubuque, on the Mississippi, and extending across the Rocky Mountains to the waters of Columbia River, was started in 1840. At the last session of the General Assembly, acts were passed granting the right of way to the Davenport, Camanche, and Lyons Railroad Companies, for railroads from the Mississippi to Council Bluffs on the Missouri. In these enterprises consid- erable northern and eastern capital will probably be employed. Minerals. But little comparative progress has been made in the exploration and develop- ment of the mineral treasures of Iowa ; although it is well known, from even imperfect researches, that a very large pbrtion of the country is extremely rich in various descriptions of metals. There are tracts, probably to the extent of hundreds of miles, that abound in lead ore; copper jand iron are also abundant in various locations, as well as coal, limestone, &c. 56 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. In the vicinity of Dubuque, the largest town in the state, are some of the finest and most valuable lead mines in the United States.* Manufactures. Excepting the working of mineral ores into marketable shape, and the fabrication of articles for domestic use from the raw materials produced within the state, there are no extensive manufacturing operations. The whole amount of capital employed in 1840, in every description of manufactures, fell somewhat short of $200,000. Indians. Recently large tracts were held by various tribes of Indians. The lowas held portions of the south, the Pottawatamies of the west, and the Sacs and Foxes of the centra] parts of the state. But these tracts have been ceeded to the United States. Population. Since the admission of Iowa into the Union, the state has been rapidly filling up with white settlers. In 1840, the population numbered 43,]] 2, including that of the north section, now called the Territory ofMinesota. It has increased prodigiously within the past ten years, and at the last census amounted to 192,214. Climate. With the exception of some localities on the river sides, subject to occasional inundations, the climate of Iowa is more healthy in general than that of the neighboring Western States. This is accounted for by the fact, that the current of its streams is more rapid. The diseases prevalent in quarters considered unhealthy at times are fevers and agues, bilious disorders, &c. The commencement, duration, and termination of winter cor- respond with those of the same season in New England. But the temperature is less severe, being more like that of Pennsylvania. Snow, to a depth of more than seven or eight inches, is seldom seen. The summers are extremely pleasant, the heat rarely becoming oppressive, and the atmosphere being often refreshed by gentle showers. Religion. Methodists, Presbyterians, and Baptists are the most numerous of the religious denominations. The Episcopalians have several societies or parishes, and there are also Roman Catholics, Friends, &c. Curiosities. One of the most remarkable productions of nature, in this region, is a natural bridge, which crosses the River Maksqueta a fine stream flowing into the Mississippi, near the centre of the eastern boundary of the state. This bridge has a span of 40 feet, and is composed of solid limestone. KENTUCKY, formerly considered one of the " Western States " of the American Union, may now be ranked among those on the map at the right hand of the observer, since, by the * Very recently, at Dubuque, a company of seven persons took from its native bed in one day a quantity of lead ore valued at upwards of STATES AND TERRITORIES. KENTUCKY. 57 immense extension of territory towards the setting sun, there is vastly more space between Kentucky and tho Pacific Ocean than between that state and the Atlantic. It was originally included within the limits of Virginia, from which state it was separated in 1786, when it was organized under a territorial government, and so remained until its erection into a state in 1792. No extensive exploration of the country is known certainly to have taken place until about the year 1770, when the celebrated and eccentric adventurer Colonel Boone penetrated its then remote and inhospitable wilds. Four years afterwards, a permanent settlement was made at Harrodsburg ; but the inhabitants of the territory, wherever located, were constantly harassed by the predatory incursions of various savage tribes, until the conclusion of the treaty with General Wayne in 1795. Boundary and Extent. The Ohio River constitutes the northern boundary of this state, separating it from the States of Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois. On the east lies Virginia, and on the south Tennessee. The Mississippi, on the west, separates Kentucky from the State of Missouri. It extends from north latitude 36 30' to 39 10', and lies between 82 and 89 30' west longitude. Its length from 'east to west is about 400 miles, and its average breadth does not greatly exceed 100 miles. Its area, as officially reported, is 37,680 square miles. Government. The present constitution, adopted in 1850, provides for the quadrennial election of governor and lieutenant governor by a plurality of the popular suffrages ; but the former magistrate cannot be reflected until after a lapse of four years. The lieutenant gov- ernor is, ex ojficio, the presiding officer of the Senate, and, in extraordinary cases, discharges the duties of the executive. The number of senators is limited to 38: one half of the number are elected every two years, in a manner that each member may serve four years. The representatives, 100 in number, apportioned to the several counties or districts every eighth year, are chosen biennially. The legislature holds biennial sessions at Frankfort, continuing only 60 days, unless by a two thirds concurrent vote. All white males, 21 years of age, after a residence in the state of two years, and in the district of one year, are qualified voters. The manner of voting at elections is by open vote, or viva voce. Judiciary. The courts consist of a Court of Appeals, having appellate jurisdiction only throughout the state, Circuit Courts in each county, and County Courts. The judges of the former, four in number, are elected by the people for eight years, and so classified that one shall retire every two years. Those of the Circuit Courts, 12 in number, are chosen for six years. Those of the County Courts, consisting of a presiding and two associate justices in each county, are chosen by the people for four years. Two justices of the peace are elected, in each county, for terms of four years. Sheriffs are chosen for two years, and cannot serve beyond a second term. Education. The state possesses a bountiful school fund, which, for the year 1849, yielded an income of about $67,000, three fourths of which, however, are applied to the ordinary ex- penditures of the state. In the above year, there were 193,000 children between the ages of five and sixteen years, nearly one half of whom attended the district schools connected with the public system. Among these latter the sum of $29,166 was distributed from the perma- nent school fund, and $21,874 from the "two cent tax." Finances. In 1849, the whole amount of the funded debt was $4,497,652-81, a part of which, viz., $836,000, was due to the school fund. The income in the same year, from all sources, amounted to $468,630-19, and the expenditures to $447,620-64. To meet the in- terest of the public debt, the state owns bank stocks, turnpike and railroad stocks, and other property, from which an annual revenue of more than $100,000 is derived. The residue of the interest is made up from the yearly tax, which is about 17 cents on each $100 worth of property. The amount of taxable property in 1849 was upwards of $285,000,000. Surface, Soil, fyc. Kentucky presents a great diversity of surface. In the eastern quarter, where it is bordered by the Cumberland Mountains, there are numerous lofty eleva- tions ; and on the northern boundary, adjacent to the Ohio River, and running through the whole extent of the state, there is a strip of hilly but fertile land, from 5 to 20 miles in breadth. Along the immediate margin of the Ohio is a tract, one mile wide, of bottom lands, which are 8 58 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. periodically overflowed. The intermediate country, between the hilly regions on the north and on the south-east, is gently undulating ; and here, within an area of 100 by 50 miles, the soil is of extraordinary richness. In the neighborhood of the Cumberland River, there is another tract of about 100 miles in extent, which, though denominated "barrens," has been within a feAv years transformed from an extended and unbroken prairie into forests of thrifty and valu- able timber. The soil throughout the state is generally of excellent quality, producing hemp, tobacco, wheat, corn, and numerous other fruits of the earth in great abundance. Among the native trees, the most common are black walnut, black cherry, mulberry, locust, ash, elm, papaw, buckeye, whitethorn, cottonwood, and sugar maple. Grapes, of fine quality, also abound ; and all the fruits adapted to the climate are successfully cultivated. Rivers. The largest rivers are the Cumberland and the Tennessee, both branches of the Ohio, which latter flows along the northern boundary for a distance of 637 miles. These branches are navigable to a very considerable extent. They enter the Ohio at points about 12 miles apart, and within 50 to 60 miles of the junction of the Ohio with the Mississippi. The other principal streams, besides those which bound the state, are the Kentucky, Licking, Salt, and Green Rivers, all of which are extensively navigable. Internal Improvements. The Louisville and Portland Canal, two and a half miles in length, is a work of extraordinary magnitude and importance. It was completed in 1831, at great cost, and after some years of labor; its bed having been excavated out of lime rock, a portion of it to the depth of 12 feet. By this work, a fall of 22 feet on the Ohio River at Louisville has been overcome, and vast numbers of steamboats and other craft are constantly passing through it. The Lexington and Ohio Railroad, extending from Lexington, via Frankfort, to Louisville, 95 miles in length, is nearly, if not quite, completed. Another, from the former city to Covington on the Ohio, opposite Cincinnati, is under contract ; and some others are projected. Minerals. The most abundant of the mineral products of Kentucky are iron, coal, lime, and salt. Large quantities of the latter article are annually exported. Limestone, at various depths, underlays the soil of a large portion of the state. Manufactures. A large amount of capital is invested in the manufacture of hemp, cotton, wool, iron, tobacco, leather, and other staple commodities. The fabrication of almost every article of domestic use is also carried on throughout the state. Indians. FCAV or none of the descendants of the aboriginal possessors of the soil now remain within the limits of the state. Population. Sixty years since, the population of Kentucky numbered less than 75,000. By the last census, it has reached over 1,000,000, more than one fifth of which number are slaves. Climate. The winters in this state rarely continue longer than two or three months, and are generally mild, but humid. The other seasons are remarkably pleasant, and the tempera- ture varies less between the extremes of heat and cold than in some of the neighboring states. The climate is consequently healthy. Religion. Of the various Christian denominations, the Baptists, perhaps, are the most numerous. The Methodists are next in numerical order. Presbyterians, Episcopalians, and Roman Catholics have each a large number of churches. There are also some societies of Shakers and Unitarians. Curiosities. Among the extraordinary objects .of wonder found in this state is the celebrated " Mammoth Cave," which has not, probably, an equal in the known world. It is situated in the county of Edmonson, near the centre of the state, and its subterranean vaults have been explored to the extent of some eight to ten miles. Its earthy floor is impregnated so strongly with nitre, that considerable quantities of this article have been extracted there- from. There are several other remarkable caverns in the state, principally in the south-west part, between Cumberland and Green Rivers. Many of the lofty, perpendicular precipices of solid limestone on the banks of Kentucky River, and the frequent chasms formed in the subjacent calcareous rocks by the rapid action of large streams, may likewise be enumerated among the natural curiosities of Kentucky. STATES AND TERRITORIES. LOUISIANA. 59 LOUISIANA. This state became a territorial member of the Federal Union in tho year 1803, under peculiar circumstances. It had been successively the property of certain French adventurers, of the crown of France, of the government of Spain, and again of the French, by whom it was sold to the United States for $15,000,000. One of the conditions of the transfer required the United States to liquidate all claims of American citizens upon France, on account of commercial spoliations prior to the year 1800 an- obligation which, after the lapse of nearly half a century, has not been fulfilled. Within 20 years after the discovery, in 1663, of the River Mississippi, the territory was explored by La Salle, who, in honor of Louis XIV., called it by the name it now bears. The first settlements were made at about the commencement of the 18th century ; and in 1731, the proprietors relinquished their jurisdiction to the king, who ceded it to Spain, in 1762. It was reconveyed to France in 1800 ; and, at the period of its sale to the United States, three years thereafter, the province embraced all the country west of the Mississippi, reaching to the Texan boundaries. It was admitted as an independent state, and its limits specially defined, in 1812. The city of New Orleans, near the mouth of the Mississippi, is celebrated in history for its defence, under General Jackson, against an attack of the British sea and land forces, commanded by General Packenham, on the 8th of January, 1815, wherein the invaders were signally defeated. Boundary and Extent. - It is bounded on the extreme north by Arkansas, and near its centre by a part of Mississippi ; on the east by the Mississippi River, dividing it from the state of that name, and by Pearl River; on the south by the Gulf of Mexico ; and on the west by Texas, from which it is partially divided by the River Sabine. It extends from 29 to 33 north latitude, and from 88 40' to 94 25' west longitude. Its length is 250 miles, and its breadth, at the southern extremity, 300. This width is maintained throughout about one half its length, when it becomes nearly 200 miles narrower, though gradually expanding towards the northern line, where it measures 180 miles in breadth. Its area is computed at 46,431 square miles. Government. By the constitution, established in 1845, the governor holds office for a term of four years, but cannot be elected for the next succeeding term. He is chosen by a plu- rality of the electors. The lieutenant governor, chosen in like manner, presides over the Senate. Senators, 32 in number, are chosen also for four years, at alternate biennial elec- tions, so that one half retire every two years. Representatives, not less than 70 nor more than 100 in number, apportioned to the number of electors, as computed every 10 years, are chosen biennially. The legislature sits but once in two years, and their sessions cannot be of longer duration than 60 days. The qualifications of voters are similar to those of most 60 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. of the free states ; the right of suffrage being confined to white American citizens, who have resided within the state two years, the last of which in the parish or county where they vote. Judicially. The Supreme Court is composed of a chief and three associate justices. It has appellate jurisdiction only in certain prescribed cases. District Courts, with one judge to each, are established in the several judicial districts, the present number of which is 17 : * these have jurisdiction in all criminal cases, and in civil suits involving a sum exceeding 50 dollars. All the judges are appointed by the executive ; those of the Supreme Court for eight, and those of the inferior courts for six years. Education. The state appropriates annually, for purposes of education, $250,000. It has also a permanent fund, derived from various sources, the interest of which is applied to the maintenance of free schools. Finances. It is provided by the constitution that the state debt shall never exceed $100,000, except in case of war or other like emergency, or for some special public work or object authorized by law. Subscriptions by the state to the stock of any corporation are prohibited, as is also a loan of the state credit. Banking or discounting companies cannot be augmented in number, nor any further charters granted, except for political or municipal purposes, for more than 25 years. Surface, Soil, fyc. Nearly the whole surface of the state consists of level prairies, many of them of immense extent. There are no elevations of consequence, excepting in one quarter, near the centre of the western boundary, where the land swells into protuberances, though pf no very great height. There are occasional tracts exhibiting a hilly and rolling sur- face, having forests of pines, of singular appearance, upon the acclivities, and surmounted by broad expanses of table lands, the intervening valleys reaching to a depth of some 40 feet. Prairies, swamps, alluvial plains, pine, hickory, and oak lands, may be said to comprehend the chief varieties of the soil of Louisiana. The marshes, forming the basis of the alluvial soil, and which are annually overflowed, extend some 20 to 30 miles inland from the southern boundary, and in many places nearly the same distance on either side of the large streams. The alluvial grounds beyond, as they gradually accumulate, assume the character of prairies, and are remarkable for their extraordinary fertility. A part of the tract subject to inundation bears a heavy growth of timber. The soil of the pine uplands is somewhat sterile ; and that of the elevated prairies is generally of ordinary quality, though well adapted for grazing ; but that of the alluvial districts is exceedingly rich and productive. Sugar, cotton, and rice are the most important staples ; and these are cultivated extensively and profitably. Among the other valuable products of the soil are corn and other grains, potatoes, tobacco, hay, &c. Large numbers of horses, cattle, sheep, and swine are raised in the central and northern parts of the state. The bottom lands bordering on Red River abound in various descriptions of timber, as locust, buckeye, papaw, willow, cottonwood, &c. On the fertile uplands are found the hickory, elm, ash, walnut, and mulberry; also grape-vines in great profusion. The white and yellow pine, and several kinds of oak, thrive in many other elevated parts of the state, otherwise deemed sterile. Rivers. The magnificent " Father of Waters," the Mississippi, discharges itself into the Gulf of Mexico, through various outlets at the southern and south-eastern extremities of the btate. In its long journey from its northern sources, it of course traverses the entire length of the state, partially forming its eastern boundary, and then passing off in a south-easterly direction, nearly through the middle of the remaining portion of the territory. This vast stream receives in its course, and within the limits of the state, the liquid contributions of several important tributaries, which water the country in many directions. Among these are Red River and its branches, the Atchafalaya, &c. Internal Improvements. There are sundry railroads connecting the capital with different places in the vicinity, none of which, however, are of any great length. The railroad from St. Francisville, on the Mississippi, to Woodville, Mississippi, 20 miles, is the longest in the state. * The district of New Orleans comprises 5 courts ; so that the whole number of district judges is 22. STATES AND TERRITORIES. MAINE. 61 There are also several canals of considerable magnitude connected with the navigation of the Mississippi. Other public works of the kind, including both railroads and canals, are in contem- plation, some of which are already in course of construction. Minerals. But littl attention has been given to the mineral resources of Louisiana. Probably no extensive explorations have ever been undertaken. Few or no indications of coal, or other mineral deposits, have as yet made their appearance, and whatever treasures of this kind may exist beneath the surface still remain undeveloped. Manufactures. These include a few cotton factories, producing articles only for home consumption ; several furnaces, forges, and tanneries ; a number of sugar refineries, distilleries, and mills of various sorts. Indians. Of the numerous tribes which once peopled or roamed over this and the neighbor- ing regions, scarcely a vestige remains. The race of red men has retired before the advancing footsteps of civilization, from this as from other quarters of the United States, where the settle- ments of the white man have encroached upon the hunting-grounds and the wild haunts and habits of the savage. Population. The people of Louisiana comprehend not only several varieties of the human species, but are composed both of native Americans and of the descendants of emigrants from many foreign nations. The inhabitants of the northern settlements were chiefly from Canada, those in the centre of the state are mostly of German extraction, and those at the south com- prise large numbers of French and Spaniards, descended from the original settlers. The popu- lation, which in 1810 was 76,556, more than doubled itself within the following ten years, and in 1850 it had increased to 517,739. Nearly one half the population are slaves. Climate. There are large tracts in this state, which, at certain seasons, are decidedly un- favorable to human health. During the summer and autumn, the low and marshy localities are frequently visited by yellow fever, cholera, and other destructive maladies. Other parts of the state, however, enjoy a salubrious climate. The winters in general are said to be less mild than those on the Atlantic coast in the same parallel of latitude. Religion. The Roman Catholics have ever been the prevailing sect, the country having been originally settled by them, although other denominations are at present increasing. There are numerous bodies of Methodists, Baptists, Presbyterians, and Episcopalians, all of which are growing in numbers more rapidly than the Papists. MAINE. History is, in more than one point of view, an instructor of mankind. It can be considered morally, as it teaches the connection of the virtues with domestic and national prosperity. By its statistics it enlightens the politician, animates the philanthropist, and 62 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. warns the tyrant. It directs the efforts of art, science, and benevolence ; connects distant times and places with our own period and abode ; makes us denizens almost of a world ; and kindles a glowing interest in the aifairs of our whole race. The " enlightened European " might disdain to look for lessons of wisdom to the compara- tively obscure settlers of American wildernesses ; but it may be successfully maintained that even from them he could be taught A population laborious and sober, frugal yet free, pos- sessing and consulting the sacred records of divine revelation, and unobstructed in the reduction of their precepts into practical life, must aiford a development to the human faculties rarely seen. The old world presents the many as made subservient to the few ; the new world has afforded the prospect of the multitude engaged in promoting their own benefit, and framing their institutions in such manner as to secure it. Let a thoughtful reader peruse the history of the republics of Italy, as written by their enlightened and faithful historian SISMONDI, and study the tablet it presents of lawless ambition, ruthless war, and keen suffering, of heartless oppression and wrong, and that for centuries ; then let him turn over the records of our own American states, and institute a comparison. Will he not conclude that humanity has gained somewhat in the lapse of ages ? In MAINE, for instance, an example has been set for the instruction of the world, in the single circumstance of the creation of its territory into a sovereign state, without the shedding of a drop of human blood, or the existence of angry debate. Peaceful and deliberate discussion, weighing critically the advantage or the injury, and honestly bringing each to the light for impartial examination, formed the prelude ; and the consequent success of the measure has been between the sister states a subject of mutual congratulation, each of the parties having unquestionably gained. It cannot be denied that in the circumstances of these two masses of population, amounting in the aggregate to 700,000 souls, the withdrawing of one third part might have furnished fuel for an extensive and ruinous conflagration. Causes of minor consequence often inflamed the ancient republics of Greece, and incited them to ruinous wars ; and Italian history, before alluded to, is full of scenes of bloodshed where far less was at stake. But MASSACHUSETTS submitted to lose much of her weight and influence in the general union of the states, and MAINE was content with the division of the public property. Each State has since advanced in opulence, and in all that distinguishes American society, without the slightest relic of any ancient grudge, or the traces of political jealousy or envy. No enlightened lover of mankind can contemplate such a picture, it would seem, without emotion. How many bloody revolutions would have been prevented, how many precious lives been saved, had such a course been uniformly held ! The wars of Holland with Spain, in the six- teenth and seventeenth centuries, and that of Great Britain with the colonies in the eighteenth, would have had no place in history ; and could the now remaining colonies pursue a similar course, it might be expected to issue in mutual benefit ; as might, perhaps, the wasting desola- tions of Hungary and Italy, in our own day, have been prevented by it. Force and fraud have done for ambition the work of selfish aggrandizement too long already : we may hope that the time approaches when " the greatest good of the greatest number " is to be the acknowledged aim of the rulers of men. Among the Eastern pr New England States, extent of territory is the prominent distinction of MAINE. So great is this, comparatively, that it early gave occasion to a significant toast from a tourist * of South Carolina " The District of Maine, the main district of Massachu- setts ! " But it rises to a higher consequence, for its area, which is now stated at 32,628 square miles, nearly equals the aggregate of all the other states comprised in the above-named division, and in population it stands among them the second only to Massachusetts. Nor are these distinctions the sole recommendations of this state to our regard. Its length- ened sea-coast, indented with harbors almost innumerable, and extending more than 200 miles, point it out as offering advantages of navigation and commerce superior to any coast of equal extent possessed by any of the states of our broad confederacy advantages which have been * Major Pinckney, in 1809. STATES AND TERRITORIES. MAINE. 63 availed of by many of its adventurous and energetic citizens, who have for a long time frequented the West Indies, as well as our own ports, with lumber, cattle, and provisions of various kinds. This distinction occasioned a late President of the United States * to express the opinion, that in process of time the peculiar facilities of MAINE would inevitably raise her to a commercial prosperity greater than that of any state of the Union. Her climate is, indeed, uninviting to the inhabitant of more southern regions. So great a portion of the year is occupied by the months which may be termed wintry, that a dread is felt of experiencing its rigor. But little reflection, however, is necessary to evince that such a climate is favorable to health, and promotive of vigorous action. An old inhabitant addressed a foreigner of distinction,! who had taken up his abode in it after the revolution, saying, " I wonder how you, who had a choice of all the country, should seat yourself here." " You have here," he replied, " the better end of the whole region, with a pure, gravelly soil and clear springs." The inhabitants of the rich, alluvial soil of the western country, enriched indeed by the vegetable spoils of centuries, yet hardly admitting the construction of durable roads, and affording in its waters but the elements of fever and ague, can appreciate the observation. MAINE is comparatively healthy. It has lost, however, a large number of its vigorous young men in the trade with the West Indies, as in fact has been the sad experience of most of the Northern States of our confederacy. We may take a view of MAINE, I. In its condition previous to the formation within it of any settlement from Europe. It was then inhabited by a rather numerous and formidable body, or, to speak more accurately, by several bodies, of Indians, as they were subsequently termed. Of their character and manners, as they were totally destitute of letters, we can form but a very inadequate judgment, as our opinions must be grounded on knowledge obtained concerning them at a later period. Their country was mostly covered with wood ; yet it abounded in animals used for the support of human life, and the natives were clad in their skins. Well-shaped, athletic, accustomed to traverse tl\e rivers *yid to frequent the islands and sea-coast in their light canoes, they seem to have enjoyed much of all' that can fall to the lot of savage life. Of their languages we are able at present to give but a meagre account. Vocabularies have, indeed, been formed, and particularly one by RALLE,J a Jesuit priest, who was long with them, and lost his life in their defence ; but it is believed no books were ever published in any of them, the celebrated Bible of their more western " apostle " ELIOT having appeared in the dialect of the tribes inhabiting Massachusetts. The late lamented Dr. PICKERING, who had paid no little attention to the subject, has left, as the result of his labors, a lucid account appended to the translation of the " Conversations- Lexicon,'^ and an ample exhibition of the various opinions of different writers respecting the names and abodes of their several tribes appears in WILLIAMSON'S very elaborate History of Maine. But our limits will not permit us to pursue the subject far. Not remotely from the mouth of the Penobscot, and up its waters, is placed by general consent the country called in the earliest English authorities NORUMBEGA. Here, or at Pem- aquid, it was supposed resided the most powerful chieftain of all the region now included in the boundaries of Maine. His title or name was Bashaba. His authority apparently reached westwardly as far as the Piscataqua ; but Avhen it originated is uncertain ; it seems to have ended about 1617. There remain at present but three tribes. These appear descended of the Etechemins, who had the Micmacs to the eastward of them, inhabiting what are now the British provinces of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. Remnants of the latter are also left, but it is believed their language has never been' reduced to writing, at least that no books have been printed in it. * Mr. Van Buren. f Count Polerccski, a noble of Poland. t See Coll. Mass. Hist. Soc. Encyclop. Amer., vol. vi., Appendix, in which (p. 585) he classes the native inhabitants east of the Hudson, except the Iroquois or Mohawks, as descended of the Lenape, and says, " When the Euro- peans arrived here, these Indians were in possession of all the sea-coast from Nova Scotia to Virginia." 64 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. Two bodies of the Indians inhabiting Maine are the Passamaquoddy and Penobscot tribes ; the latter reckoned as Tarratines, the former as Openangoes. By an experiment related by the Hon. Mr. WILLIAMSON, it appeared that " not a word of their language was found in the Bible translated by ELIOT." * We cannot, perhaps, venture to assert that the coast had never been visited by Europeans before the voyage of CABOT, or those of the Spaniards, who, with the French, seem to have been upon it at an early date. But on a small island very near Monhegan was discovered, in 1808, an inscription of a rather curious kind, made on the side of a rock. It might possibly coun- tenance the hypothesis, which has been of late entertained with so much approbation and interest by the Danish antiquaries, that America was visited by Scandinavians, or Icelanders, long before COLUMBUS. Yet the inscription seems too simple to be resolved into Runic characters. We give it thus : On the top of the rock were found three holes, about one foot apart, rather deeply perforated, and calculated to accommodate a tripod. The island is called Mananas, or Menannah, and is described in WILLIAMSON;! although, so far as is known to the writer, the above inscription has never before met the public eye. It is the only one of which he has heard as existing in Maine ; and whether it were the result of mere idleness, or made to score a reckoning, or has a meaning of a different kind, we will not undertake to determine. The holes are an inch deep or more, and near three inches in diameter. The strokes are cut to the depth of nearly half an inch, and are about six inches in length, as our informant J stated. A spring is near, and the shore about thirty rods off. The ledge of rock is near the centre of the little island, and runs about north-north-east and south-south-west. The natives became known to Europe by an act of what we might term cruel treachery in an English captain, WEYMOUTH. Yet it resulted in good. For an interest w^ excited on the sight of them, and new desires were aroused of colonizing their country. This was in 1605. Two or three years after, an actual attempt was made to settle at the mouth of the Sagadehoc or Kennebec River. The Indians now remaining in the State of Maine are divided into three bodies. That division with which we are least acquainted is settled on the St. John's River, at two places, 63 and 163 miles respectively above Fredericton, in the Province of New Brunswick. ScHooLCRArT gives their number at 300 souls, and calls them Souriquois. By WILLIAMSON they are termed Marechites, by MORSE Melecites. They were once numerous and powerful, but have greatly declined ; and, like the other two divisions, are chiefly, as they ever have been from the earliest English settlement, || under the influence of Romish priests ; although attempts have been made, and sometimes with apparent success, to induce individuals to adopt a purer faith. In 1811, one branch of them was visited at Old Town, under the authority of the Massa- chusetts government, with a view to induce them to cultivate their lands, and learn to depend on the productions of their soil, and not merely on hunting, fowling, and fishing. But the effort was frustrated by the ensuing war of 1812-15, in which the tribe determined on a strict neu- trality between the two belligerent nations. At a subsequent period, as is stated by WILLIAMS ON, IF both these tribes had become * Hist, of Maine, vol. i. p. 459. f " On the south side [of Monhegan] is the Menannah Island, of two acres, distant a cable's length, and the harbor is between the two islands ; the entrance into it on the south-west of Monhegan being safe and easy." Hist, of Maine, vol. i. p. 61. J The late Major Joshua Shaw, of Bath, Maine. In his great work on the Indians of North America, published by Congress in 1850, 4to. H See an account of the succession of missionaries from the late Governor Lincoln's Papers, in the Collections of the Maine Hist. Soc. vol. i. H Hist, of Maine, vol. ii. pp. 669, 670 STATES AND TERRITORIES. MAINE. 65 " objects of public charity and protection," and one which suffered peculiarly was aided by a grant of provisions. This, however, was but a temporary relief, and at length an arrangement was made, by which the lands belonging to the Penobscot tribe, and which originally extended far up the river, and six miles in width on each side of it, were still further relinquished or dis- posed of to the 'government by a treaty, with exception of four townships six miles square, and the islands in Penobscot River above Old Town. In consequence of this arrangement, effected in 1817, and ratified February 20, 1819, the government stipulated to deliver to the tribe yearly, in October, as long as it might exist, " 500 bushels of corn, 15 barrels of wheat flour, and 7 of clear pork ; one hogshead of molasses, 50 Indian blankets, 100 pounds of gunpowder, 400 of shot, and 150 of tobacco ; 100 yards of broadcloth, alternately red and blue; (3 boxes of chocolate, and f50 in silver." "After- wards, $350 were appropriated by the government, as an annual stipend to their religious teacher." Such is the issue of a lingering and almost listless existence, that has been protracted during successive and obstinate wars, in which the devotion of the Indians to their Romish guides filled them with prejudice and hatred against the Protestant settlers of Maine, and apparently has prevented, and still prevents, their rising, by industrious, economical habits, to the enjoyment of blessings which they see multiplied all around them. These but con- vince them of their own degradation, and display, in a marked contrast, the effects of their idleness and improvidence. There are now, according to the last account reported at Washington, 277 souls in the Penobscot, and 379 in the Passainaquoddy tribe ; and much the greater portion of these are women and children. The Passainaquoddy tribe are at " Pleasant Point," with a territory of 90 acres ; the other at Old Town, on an island of the Penobscot River. II. We may contemplate MAINE as claimed, and in part occupied, by French and English proprietors. Compared with the other Eastern or New England States, it may be regarded as a peculiar feature of the history of MAINE, that her first settlements of Europeans were made on prin- ciples of feudalism. Hence, in fact, the disappointments that attended them. This observa- tion was made, virtually, by the respected historian of New Hampshire, the accurate and sagacious BELKNAP. He could not but mark the difference resulting from the influence of orders transmitted from a distant country, compared with the impulses of personal interest and independent adventure. In almost every instance, the lordly proprietor, who managed his estate by agencies, was forced to succumb to the lavish or indiscreet expenditures of his " servants ; " and they who became successful were the men who hazarded their all in person. This has been noticed in the remarks introducing our Gazetteer of New Hampshire.* Sir FERDINANDO GORGES was the most conspicuous and laborious of these proprietors of the territory. The portion he claimed within the present limits of Maine reached along the shore from Piscataqua to Sagadehoc, estimated at 60 miles, and 120 miles into the interior, embodying about 6000 square miles. For this he obtained a patent from " the Council for the Affairs of New England," which had been formed by King JAMES I., in 1606, into a com- pany, divided into two parts, the one having South Virginia for its object, the other North Virginia. London and Plymouth gave name to these several divisions, which were united under one head, termed the " General Council of Virginia," consisting of thirteen members appointed by the crown, and resident in England. In 1620, chiefly at the solicitation of GORGES, who was a leading member, the patent given originally to the Plymouth division was enlarged and renewed, and now embraced all NEW ENGLAND, taking the above title.. This measure was deemed necessary, in order to give a " definite extent of territory, with necessary power and privileges," and " an exclusive right to the soil, fishing, and trade within, its limits.' * See Hayicard's Gazetteer of New Hampshire, p. 10, and repeated in this work. And see the very comprehensive summary of the history of these claims in an account of " the Plymouth. Claim," or "Kennebec Purchase," by Hon. R. H. Gardiner, Pres. of Maine Hist. Soc., in vol. ii. of their Coll., 9 66 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. GORGES, whose attention had been early turned to America, as a field for colonization, and who had already made great efforts and expenditures, with but unsatisfactory results, being now strengthened by the zeal and intelligence of Captain JOHN MASON, whose patent adjoined his own at the westward, and extended from Piscataqua to Merrimac, entered on the work with new vigor, although advanced in years and a pecuniary sufferer. He had, in 1623, invested his son ROBERT with ample powers, and furnished him with stores to aid the settlers already upon liis lands ; and at length, in 1635, gave the form and consistency of a Province to them, of which he bore the title,* and to which he gave the name of MAINE. It is peculiarly affecting to read the simple and " Brief Narration " which this ardent adven- turer has transmitted to posterity, and see with what perseverance he cherished the hope, for near forty years, that, although for himself he were a loser, others would yet obtain great benefits. " I dealt not," says he, " as merchants are wont, seeking only to make my own profit, my ends being to make thorough the discovery of the country." "I opened the way for others to make their gain." "Thus much, I presume, will clear the objection made by my example, and give comfort and courage to the industrious to follow the precedents of those more able to act their own parts than I have been." For he had said, " I found it no mean matter to procure any to go there, much less to reside there ; and those I sent knew not how to subsist but on the provisions I furnished them withal." f But our space will not permit us to dwell longer on this detail. It has already carried our narrative beyond the period of the earliest European settlements, and we must return. The rivalry of the two most powerful princes on the continent of Europe, FRANCIS I. of France, and CHARLES of Spain, afterwards emperor, and 5th of that name, evinced itself in maritime affairs, as well as in efforts on land. One of the popes, himself a Spaniard, J had "meted out" the heathen portion of mankind between the Portuguese and Spaniards, assign- ing to the latter, under the name of the West Indies, that "new world" of which COLUMBUS had been the discoverer, in 1492 ; to the former, with Africa, the East Indies. FRANCIS, not brooking that his rival should be enriched with a possession so splendid, and roused by the efforts at discovery made by HENRY VII. of England, who had patronized the CABOTS, and claimed the northern part of the American continent, which they had seen in 1497, attempted to realize a share also. He therefore fitted out an expedition in 1523, under VERRAZZANO, who discovered Florida, and sailed along the coast from latitude 28 to 50, denominating it New France. He, however, perished at sea, without effecting any coloniza- tion whatever. In fact, the wars of Europe conspired with other causes to prevent, for more than a century after its discovery, the colonization of any part of North America. Attempts were indeed made by Sir WALTER RALEIGH within the patent of South Virginia, and had been made pre- viously in Florida, by Admiral COLIGNY, but were both ineffectual. And it may be asserted, that, notwithstanding repeated voyages to different parts of the coast by both French and English, and repeated exertions to colonize, frustrated by untoward circumstances, the six- teenth century had closed before any permanent establishments were made. In 1602, the shores of Maine were at least approached by GOSNOLD, an English navigator, and the following year actually visited by MARTIN PRING, who fell in with the coast at the mouth of the Penobscot River. The claim of England to Canada and Nova Scotia had been valid until 1600, when the French were in possession of both ; and the mutual contentions of the mother countries thenceforward affected the inhabitants down to the peace of 1763. But it will be useful to glance at the intermediate period, by retaining a few dates as land- marks and assistants of the memory. * Being called " Lord Proprietor of the Province of Maine ; " the name of Maine being supposed to be taken from the province of that name in France as a compliment to Henrietta of France, queen f Charles I. f See his " Brief Narration," Coll. Hist. Soc. of Maine, vo\ ii. J Alexander VI. (Borgia.) See Holmes' s Annals, vol. i. p. 7. Annals, ut supra, p. 54. STATES AND TERRITORIES. MAINE. 67 1607. The colony of Sagadehoc was temporarily formed at the mouth of the River Ken- nebec. The time that had elapsed between GOSNOLD'S voyage and this period had been occupied by the visits of different navigators, who had greatly increased the interest felt in England with respect to America ; and especially, as has been seen, in the bosom of Sir F. GORGES and his associates. And, as a result of the division of the royal patent, in 1606, already noticed, this attempt at Sagadehoc was made. But it was unhappily frustrated. The winter proved exceedingly cold, the colonists were poorly sheltered, and a part of their store was consumed by fire. Chief Justice POPHAM, a special patron of the enterprise, died; his brother also, GEORGE POPHAM, who was its president and leader, followed. Sir JOHN GIL- BERT, elder brother of RALEIGH GILBERT, admiral of the colony, had deceased, leaving this brother to be his heir. All these conspiring events urged the colonists to desist from their undertaking, and were effectual. The next year the survivors returned to England, " brand- ing the country," remarks PRINCE, " as over cold, and not habitable by our English nation." * This attempt embodied " a hundred emigrants, besides mariners." 1613. This year is memorable as bringing with it the first open rupture between the sub- jects of England and France residing on these shores. On the northern bank of the St. Lawrence the city of Quebec had been founded five years before, and the country to the west and south-west of it explored by the French. On the shores of Acadia also a settlement had been made at Port Royal, now Annapolis ; and two Jesuits, disagreeing with those who formed this settlement, had seated themselves on the Island of Mount Desert, near the mouth of the Penobscot, and were engaged in labors to convert the natives to their system of religion. But the circumstances of the colonists in Virginia requiring aid, vessels had been despatched to the Bermuda Islands for provisions, and to the fisheries on the northern coast. The latter service was assigned to Sir SAMUEL ARGAL, who, on hearing the state of the French settle- ments, and conceiving that they had encroached on the English patents, attacked and destroyed them, in repeated expeditions, carrying away several of the inhabitants. Yet this act, although in time of peace, was not followed by war between the two nations.f 1615. Passing by the history of the previous voyages of SMITH, the hero of Virginia, who visited Monhegan, the preceding year, for purposes of trade, this year is observable, as ex- hibiting the first attempt, since the failure of 1607, to colonize under his command ; but it was frustrated.! 1620, November 3. Date of new charter to the Plymouth Company, under which MASON, GORGES, Sir W. ALEXANDER and others subsequently claimed lands, lying between 40 and 48 of north latitude. 1622, August 10. GORGES and MASON obtain a patent for the lands between the Rivers Merrimac and Sagadehoc, " extending from the Atlantic unto the Rivers Canada and Iroquois, and including the savage nations towards the great lakes." This was called " the Province of Laconia." To give effect to this was formed " the Company of Laconia," for fishing and the fur trade, discovery also and settlement. This year the Island of Monhegan is supposed to have received permanent inhabitants. 1623. A permanent settlement commenced at Saco. The coast had been previously recon- noitred by VINES and others, sent out by GORGES in 1609. But now, settlers having been procured for the locality south of the River Piscataqua, who founded the colony of New Hampshire, others established themselves along the shore eastward, at Arowsic Island, on the main land at Sagadehoc, at Sheepscot, Damariscotta, Pemaquid, and St. George's River. An attempt was first made, this year, to establish a general governor over New England, in the person of ROBERT GORGES, son of Sir FERDINANDO, but the project happily failed. Nevertheless, it became a favorite measure with the government, and in subsequent periods occasioned no little alarm and trouble to the colonies. Agamenticus, or York, settled. 1627. A patent is granted to the New Plymouth colonists who had traded to Monhegan, * See Williamson, vol. i. pp. 197-203, and Prince's Annals. f Holmes's Annals, A. D. 1613. Williamson's Hist. Maine, vol. i. J Id. ib. p. 214. 68 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. Damariscove, and the Penobscot previously, and now asked for the exclusive trade of the Kennebec ; on whose bank they established, in the subsequent year, (during which the im- portant patent of Massachusetts Bay was issued,) a trading-house.* 1629. THOMAS COMMOCK, or rather CAMOCK,! obtained a patent for land between the River Spurwink and Black Point, in Scarboro', on which he settled subsequently, and died in 16434 In this year was also granted, with enlargements, the Kennebec or Plymouth patent, intended as an express favor to New Plymouth, for the encouragement of trade and the fishery, and for the propagation of religion. The area included in it is stated to have been 1,500,000 acres ; but long disputes grew out of it, not settled before 1789. 1630. Grants were made by the Plymouth Council to settlers at Saco ; and another, much more extensive, being 40 miles square, and called Lygonia, in which GORGES was greatly con- cerned, but still unsuccessful. It extended from Cape Porpoise to Cape Elizabeth. During this year was also granted the Muscongus patent, known at an after period as that of WALDO, which included a tract of about 30 miles square. It was not intended for a separate government, but only for purposes of trade with the natives. 1631. This year the Pemaquid patent was granted, and seems to have closed the series. Of all these it may be said, probably, as of many if not most of the early grants, their boun- daries could not be well defined, and therefore disputes would in time naturally arise concerning them. Two territories soon came into notice the Kennebec, or Maine, and the Sagadehoc, the eastern part of which was Acadian, and claimed by the French. The history of all these claims is given elaborately by WILLIAMSON, to whom our limits compel us to refer. They were not settled until the charter given by King WILLIAM and Queen MARY, in 1691, united them with Massachusetts under the same government. That state had, however, in the year 1677, purchased the entire claim of the GORGES family to Maine, for 1250 sterling, and established a government over it It had also assumed, in 1689, the government of Western Sagadehoc, and in 1690, Sir W. PHIPS sub- dued the remainder. From this period the history of Maine is blended with that of Massachusetts ; and although, as has been hinted, her sufferings from Canadian Indians had been peculiar, and so continued until the conquest of Canada by the British and provincial arms, and peace of 1763, yet the operation of the laws, customs, pursuits, and fortunes of Massachusetts was of the same character in " the district," as in that state. In 1820, after much previous discussion, of the most deliberate and prudent kind, however, a separation was effected by mutual arrangements, and a new state formed, taking the ven- erated name of MAINE. The Hon. WILLIAM KING, one of its most distinguished citizens, and who had greatly exerted himself to benefit the country, was, with great unanimity, elected their first governor. For the succeeding thirty years, the affairs of the state have been managed with the regularity, consideration, and fidelity which a well-informed commu- nity require of those whom their free suffrages raise to office. The cause of education has * Williamson's Hist. Maine, pp. 233, 234. t He was nephew of Robert, third Baron Rich, and first Earl of "Warwick, whose son, of the same name, was president for a time of the Plymouth Company, and in 1644 admiral of England under the com- monwealth. Camocks, the ancient residence of the family, was in Essex county, England. Captain Thomas Camock, a widower, father of the patentee, living in the family of the old Baron Rich, became attached to his daughter Frances, and, in consequence of the father's dislike of the match, carried her off on horseback. They were pursued, were compelled to swim a river with difficulty, reached Maldon, in Essex, and were there married the old nobleman giving at length his blessing, seeing his daughter " had ventured her life" for her husband. But he was observed to take it to heart until his death, in 1581. Two sons and eleven daughters were the fruit of this marriage. Morant's Hist, of Essex, vol. i. pp. 323, 408. J Williamson, Hist. M. vol. i. p. 236, who mistakes the relationship. See Burke's Extinct Peerage of England, and Collim's Peerage, ed. of 1756. $ Williamson, ut supra, p. 238. STATES AND TERRITORIES. MARYLAND. 69 been cherished -with a wise care ; and that of religious instruction has encountered no impedi- ment in an officious legislation, but has been left to its own native energy, and the operation of the general laws of the land. It has, therefore, by the blessing of God, been in a flourish- ing state, under the management of different denominations. Of these, Congregationalists, Baptists, and Methodists are the principal ; and there are Episcopalians, and a few churches of Romanists. They enjoy equal liberty and equal protection. Under a separate head in this work will be found an account of the colleges, theological seminaries, academies, and schools ; as also the statistics of the agriculture, commerce, manu- factures, roads, canals, rivers, bays, harbors, cities, towns, and settlements of the state, which has commenced, and is pursuing, under the divine blessing, its high career of well-earned prosperity. ESTO PERPETUA! MARYLAND is one of the thirteen American states, which, after the close of the revolu- tionary war, became parties to the compact whereby they were united into one great national family. It is usually designated as the southernmost of the Middle States, lying on the Atlan- tic coast; it extends from 38 to 39 44' north latitude, and between 75 10' and 79 20' west longitude ; and its superficial area, of which about one fifth is water, is estimated as being 9,356 square miles. The present boundaries of the state are as follows : north by Pennsyl- vania, east by Delaware and the Atlantic Ocean, south and west by Virginia, from which it is divided by the River Potomac. Its form is extremely irregular. Chesapeake Bay, passing through the state from north to south, near its centre, separates it into two sections, which are known respectively as the Eastern Shore and the Western Shore. It is generally understood that Maryland was comprised in the sweeping grant to the Vir- ginia Company, prior to the year 1632 ; but in June of that year, the whole tract now consti- tuting the state was conveyed by patent from Charles I. to George Calvert, Lord Baltimore ; when, out of compliment to the then queen, Henrietta Maria, the colony was named Maryland. The earliest settlement was effected by some 200 Catholics of high respectability, under Leonard Calvert son of the original grantee, at a spot occupied as an Indian village, on the north side of the Potomac. The generous offer, by the proprietor, of 50 acres of land in fee to every permanent settler, and the adoption of a form of government upon liberal and humane principles, similar to those contained in the wise model furnished by Roger Williams, and 70 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. afterwards enlarged upon by William Penn, soon attracted large numbers of valuable emigrants. Under this judicious policy, freely admitting associates from all countries, and assuring the enjoyment of equal privileges, including the utmost toleration of all Christian denominations, the colony rapidly increased in population, and continued to flourish, with some few interrup- tions, until the year 1652. Parliament then took forcible possession, and undertook to admin- ister the affairs of the province through the agency of commissioners. But within ten years thereafter, the government reverted to the successors of Lord Baltimore. The first regularly arranged constitution was framed in 1650, two years prior to the act of Parliament above mentioned ; its provisions contemplated a partition of the legislature, then composed of one body, into two branches, and a division of the territory into three distinct counties. At the outbreak, and during the continuance, of the war of the revolution, the men of Maryland were not behind their fellow-countrymen in patriotic efforts to secure the independence of the nation. In 1776, their first republican constitution was established, and the state formally joined the confederation in 1781. It adopted the constitution of the United States, at a con- vention held in April, 1788, by a vote of 63 to 12. A new state constitution was formed in 1851. Government. By the state constitution in force at the date of this article, the governor is elected triennially by a plurality of the popular vote, and is ineligible for the next succeeding term. He is selected in turn from each of the three gubernatorial districts into which the state is divided. The legislature consists of a Senate and House of Delegates ; the former, 21 in number, chosen (one third every second year) by the counties and by the city of Balti- more, to serve six years. Members of the House of Delegates are elected for two years, from the counties, in proportion to population, the city of Baltimore being entitled to a number equal to that chosen by the largest county. This body may act as a grand jury. In case of vacancy in the office of governor, the executive functions are exercised, first, by the secretary of state ; next, by the president of the Senate ; and, lastly, by the speaker of the house ; or, if in session, the General Assembly may forthwith fill the vacancy by joint ballot ; and in like manner at the next session, should the vacancy occur during a recess. Any bill to abolish slavery must unanimously pass both houses, be published three months prior to the ensuing election of delegates, and, at the following session, again pass unanimously : it shall also pro- vide for a full compensation of the slave owners. No gift or devise of property to clergymen is valid without consent of the legislature, excepting land for a church or cemetery, not to exceed two acres. All civil officers must declare their belief in the Christian religion. The right of suffrage is extended to all free white males, after twelve months' residence in the state, and six months in the county wherein they vote. Judiciary. There are six judicial districts in the state, composed respectively of two, three, or four counties. Each has a chief judge and two assistants. The city and county of Balti- more constitute one of these districts. The justices of each district preside over the several County Courts, which are the common courts of original jurisdiction in the state. There is a State Court of Appeals, including the chief judges of the six districts ; and a Court of Chan- cery, comprising chancellor, register, and auditor. Education. The common school system, so deeply cherished in the Northern and Eastern States, has not yet attained a very great measure of public favor in Maryland. The schools, throughout the state, supported at public cost, do not, in the aggregate, contain so large a number of pupils as are contained in the common schools of the single city of Boston ; and the whole state expenditure for educational purposes, including all that is applied for the support of colleges and academies, as well as for that of grammar and primary schools, does not ex- ceed one half the amount expended by the same city upon the two latter grades of seminaries alone. Yet there are numerous private institutions of learning, some of great merit, and generally well sustained : among them are several Catholic colleges, and similar exclusive establishments. The number of white persons upwards of 20 years of age, in this state, at the census of 1850, who could neither read nor write, was upwards of ten thousand. Finances. The net amount of the public debt in December, 1849, was somewhat over STATES AND TERRITORIES. MARYLAND. 71 $10,500,000, the interest on which is annually met by means of taxation. Provision has fteen made for the gradual reduction of this debt, through the operation of a sinking fund, and other resources. The nominal liabilities of the state, at the above date, reached nearly $16,000,000 ; to meet which it had prpductive assets valued at about $5,300,000, and unproductive property- estimated at near $15,500,000. The expenditures for the year ending December 1, 1849, were $1,146,492-16 ; and the income, from all sources, including the direct tax, amounted to $1,315,439-80. Surface, Soil, fyc. The Eastern Shore of Maryland presents, in general, a low and flat surface, with frequent marshy tracts and stagnant ponds. The soil in this region, though not remarkably fertile, produces wheat of peculiar whiteness and excellence ; also Indian corn, tobacco, sweet potatoes, and most of the ordinary descriptions of vegetables. The western section of the state is more elevated and protuberant, gradually rising towards the north-west, and becoming at that point quite mountainous, being crossed by a part of the Allcghany chain, reaching from Pennsylvania to Virginia. The land in the valleys between these eminences is of superior quality ; and that of the entire section, indeed, is highly productive. The soil is com- posed mostly of a heavy red loam. The staple products are tobacco and wheat ; but cotton, hemp, and flax are also raised in large quantities. Fruits of the finest kinds are abundant, particu- larly apples, pears, and the choicest varieties of stone fruit. The woodlands contain much valuable timber, and abound with nut-trees, the fruit of which affords subsistence to multitudes of swine. There are many tracts which furnish fine pasturage'for cattle and sheep ; and in addition to beef, mutton, wool, and the products of the dairy, vast quantities of poultry are raised in all parts of the state. Rivers. The Potomac, forming the boundary between this state and Virginia ; the Susque- hanna, flowing through Pennsylvania, and emptying into the northerly extremity of Chesapeake Bay ; the Patapsco, and Patuxent, both navigable, and affording good water power, are among the principal streams immediately connected with the trade and commerce of Maryland. There are also several smaller rivers running into the eastern margin of Chesapeake Bay. Internal Improvements. Among the most important public works in the country are two whicli owe their origin to Maryland, viz., the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, and the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. They were both commenced in 1828 ; and by their aid the markets of the world may be readily supplied with the treasures of the immense coal regions in the west. A part of the chain of railroads, extending through most of the Atlantic states, crosses Mary- land, taking Baltimore in its course. Other railroads, of considerable extent, diverge from Baltimore, Frenchtown, &c. A commodious canal, connecting the Chesapeake and Delaware Bays, 42 miles in length, was completed in 1829, at a cost of $2,750,000. Minerals. Copperas and chrome ores, red and yellow ochres, sulphuret of copper, alum earth, and porcelain clay are found in considerable quantities, chiefly in the eastern and north- eastern parts of the state. Iron ore abounds in various localities ; and the bog ore obtained in the southern quarter of the Eastern Shore is wrought to much advantage. But by far the most valuable mineral product of Maryland is the bituminous coal, of which there are exhaust- less beds in the mountainous region near the western border of the state. One tract, in the vicinity of Cumberland, Alleghany county, is said to comprise an area of 400 square miles, the veins measuring from 5 to 15 feet in thickness ; another, lying west of the Alleghany ridge, contains beds some 20 feet in depth. Manufactures. Wool, cotton, hemp, and iron are manufactured in many parts of the state. There are also numerous tanneries, chandleries, breweries, distilleries, potteries, paper mills, powder mills, &c. ; and a very large amount of capital is invested in the business of manu- facturing wheat flour. Indians. There are no organized tribes of the red races now extant in Maryland. Population. During the last sixty years, the average increase of population in this state does not seem to have exceeded one per cent, per annum. Nearly one fifth of the inhabitants are slaves. Climate. The elevated country of the Western Shore is blest with a delightful and 72 UNITED STATES GAZETTEEE. salubrious climate ; but in the low and moist lands of the opposite section, especially in summer and autumn, where the atmosphere is so often loaded with deleterious vapors exhaled from stagnant pools and unreclaimed marshes, the climate is decidedly unhealthy. This may be inferred even from the personal appearance of the people, who are subject, periodically, to severe agues, intermittent fevers, &c. Religion. The descendants of the original settlers, like their progenitors, are Roman Catholics, and probably constitute the most numerous of the several Christian denominations within the state. The next in numerical order are the Episcopalians ; then follow Method- ists, Presbyterians, Baptists, German Reformers, and Lutherans; also a small number of Quakers and Unitarians. MASSACHUSETTS. The rank sustained among nations by the United States of America, as a consolidated, political body, is high. The second power in commerce on the earth, it compares well, at length, if not with the greatest, at least with the great, in popula- tion also. China, Great Britain, Russia, Austria, and France, with, probably, Japan, which still refrains from intercommunity with the rest of mankind, exceed it in numbers. Yet the general character of its inhabitants for intelligence, enterprise, and vigor excites inquiry. The rapid growth of the country increases curiosity, and prompts to further investigations. For it is found that, so far as we can be warranted by the extent of the period of proof, that growth is of a durable character. Republican principles are not new to the world. The effort to maintain them has been made in various ages and countries, from the period of the free states of Greece, and the early years of republican Rome, to the centuries of Venetian, Swiss, and Dutch liberty. But the constituent elements of their liberty seem to have been of a character different from that of the government of the United States. Hereditary aristocracies existed in most of them, as they do still in the only European republic that survives. In ours, this principle is unacknowledged ; and the people are, by constitution and actually, the originators of execu- tive and legislative power. And the singular phenomenon is beheld, of a sovereign ruler, vested for a time with the exercise of supreme but constitutional power, and descending from that height to the level of private life then called to and accepting grades of inferior influ- ence, without the effort to seize, in any one instance, on a superior station. Such has been the uniform experience of more than half a century. Here, then, a problem important to the welfare of the world is in process of solution : Cm communities be trusted to govern themselves ? Thus far, the system adopted by the United STATES AND TERRITORIES. MASSACHUSETTS. 73 States succeeds admirably, even beyond the expectation of many wise and good men. And while the ever-varying phases of government, in those provinces of this western continent which shook off the yoke of Spain, exhibit an instability of condition * and character that still portends increase of evils, the march of our Union has been onward ; and its citizens have exhibited the cheering spectacle of a nation enjoying the widest desirable range of human liberty regulated and rendered stable by law. It is true, that, to a foreigner, it would appear impracticable to adjust the jarring interests of a multitude of sovereign states composing a federal whole. And great difficulty is, in fact, occasionally found. Yet it is not insuperable, nor of necessity fatal. This truth results, in great measure, from the character, history and circumstances of the members which projected and which compose the Union itself. It becomes, therefore, a matter of curious research to investigate these, and it should be done with care. Especially is it of consequence to examine the condition, character and progress of those members of the great political community, which, in the providence of GOD, have exercised, in their respective individualities, any considerable or peculiar influence in forming the general character of the whole body. And in this view MASSACHUSETTS shines. She was one of the earliest formed states. Her history, compared with that of almost any other political community, has features of dis- tinct peculiarity, more especially in reference to the origin of her colonial existence. Nor has the influence she has since exerted, as regards the rest of the states, been inconsiderable. Far otherwise, indeed ; and there is reason to believe, notwithstanding a variety of counterac- tions, that it increases. For she is vigorous and powerful not, it is confessed, in extent of territory, or in the number of citizens subjected to her immediate control, and enjoying her maternal solicitude and care ; but from the character of her cherished sons and daughters. To understand as well as to substantiate this, it is necessary to contemplate the causes which, in the course of divine Providence, contributed to produce this character. And these causes are to be sought, not in the prompt resolution, or wise management, or prudent fore- sight merely, attendant on the conduct of the great enterprise itself; we must look beyond the period of the actual settlement of the country, courageous and well considered as the bold project itself was, to a source higher and more remote. What, then, was it which formed the leading actors, such as they were, and nerved them with uncommon vigor to undertake, and prosecute, and, with the blessing of GOD, to accom- plish, the establishment of an energetic civil community, three thousand miles from their native home, and on the shores of a savage, inhospitable country ? It is fearlessly replied, RELIGION, the religion of the Bible. To this their ancestors had been introduced by the glorious reformation from Popery, under LUTHER, ZUINGLIUS, MELANCTHON, CALVIN, and their associates. And the sincerity of attachment to the truth of GOD, which they professed, had, in the case of many of them, been tested by much trial and suffering. This endeared to them that truth, and rendered it precious. They learnt to glory in the possession of the Scriptures, and were earnest in their efforts to carry out into life, and fully to enjoy, improve, and transmit their sacred injunctions and counsels. Add to this the history of public policy in Great Britain for preceding ages ; the contests of the nobles with the crown, producing at length the concession of the Magna Charta, A. D. 1215 ; the establishment of the popular branch of the English Parliament, commencing half a century after, in the ambitious shrewdness of SIMON DE MONFORT ; the rise of new interests by the gradual progress of trade and manufacturing industry, and the consequent opening of new avenues to political power, and new channels of political influence, all these eventuat- ing in the examination of the first principles of government, and tending to establish the rights of subjects, and to limit the prerogative power of kings ; let these be considered, as developing popular influence, and tending to establish a reciprocity between ruler and subject, which had * Reminding one of Milton's remark on the Saxon heptarchy, that " the flight of kites and crows might as well be traced as their history." 10 74 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. been indeed discernible at a very early period in the original Saxon character, and previously in the ancient British, and no one can be at a loss to determine, that such successive training, in combination with the deeper excitement of religious conviction and zeal, would produce in the seventeenth century men of moral hardihood, wary, bold, energetic, and effective. Sprung from an ancestry thus disciplined, and possessing the advantages which accrued to England from the light of the reformation, the diffusion of books by printing, and the access enjoyed especially to the Sacred Scriptures, with the deepest reverence for them, the fathers of the colony of New Plymouth and that of Massachusetts Bay commenced their important work. It was of GOD, unquestionably. And His providential leading they were accustomed to observe and acknowledge in all their concerns. This was their habit and delight. Equally attentive do they appear to the condition of their children after them. Hence, although, by fleeing to Holland, the persecuted Puritans * were allowed to enjoy freedom from the annoyance and pursuit of officers of the Star Chamber commission, such freedom for themselves lost no small part of its charm, when they found the morals of their offspring en- dangered, and the good habits inculcated on them liable to abandonment under the example and influence of the Dutch.f In 1617, therefore, their excellent pastor, the truly reverend JOHN ROBINSON, countenanced the project of removing to America. That such a motive should be allowed so great influence on the judgment, feelings, and conduct of those much-enduring men, and that they followed its leading with so much con- scientiousness, lays their posterity and countrymen under great obligations. We should be grateful to GOD, and to them. We should gird ourselves to the accomplishment of the object they had in view, and labor to fulfil what appears to be emphatically their " mission," and that indeed of our nation to fix and stamp the worth of individual man, and develop his power of self-government, in establishing a system of liberty guarded by law. Massachusetts may be viewed, I. In the establishment and form of its government. Both these seem to have been, very providentially, forced, as it were, upon the earliest undertakers. For, after the repeated dis- appointments they had suffered, in applications for aid and authority from the crown, during their stay in Holland, and after the resolution they had taken to remove to America, the Pu - ritans of Leyden were left to unite, as a civil community, after their own choice. Had they landed, as they aimed to do, within the jurisdiction of the colony planted in Virginia, they must, of course, have submitted themselves to its government. But being driven back in their attempts to go south, after they had discovered land, they agreed, November 11, 1020, before leaving their ship, on a few simple but distinguishing articles,! arid chose JOHN CARVER, one of their company, and a beloved and respected member of their church, to be their governor for the ensuing year. The state of Governor BRADFORD'S health rendered it expedient to give him an assistant, and a deputy governor was elected by the people ; then a court of assistants was chosen, aa * Neale, Hist. Puritans. f Prince, and the other historians. J The agreement, on board the Mayflower, in Cape Cod Harbor : "In the name of GOD, Amen. We, whose names are here underwritten, the legal subjects of our dread sovereign lord, King JAMES, by the grace of GOD, of Great Britain, France, and Ireland. King, Defender of the Faith, having undertaken for the glory of GOD, and the advancement of the Christian faith, and to the honor of our king and country, a voyage to plant the first colony in the northern parts of Virginia, do by these presents solemnly and mutually, in the presence of GOD and one another, covenant and combine ourselves together in a civil body politic, for our own better ordering and preser- vation, and furtherance of the ends aforesaid, and by virtue hereof to enact, constitute, and frame such just and equal laws, ordinances, acts, constitutions, and offices, from time to time, as shall be thought most convenient for the general good of the colony, to which we promise all due submission and obe- dience. In witness whereof," &c. Then follow the names of forty-one who thus covenanted, as may be seen in the edition of Morton's Memorial, published by Judge Davis ; the whole number of souls being 101, including all members of the several families. See Prince's Annals, and Young's Chronicles of the Pilgrims. The names will be found at the end of this article. STATES AND TERRITORIES. MASSACHUSETTS. 75 the growing population increased the business of the government. But it was not until near twenty years after the first settlement that deputies were chosen by the towns, to form what is now termed a House of Representatives. No important alterations were made in this system of government, while the old colony of Plymouth retained its separate establishment ; that is, until the union with the government of Massachusetts Bay, in 1692, except during the inter- ruptions occasioned by the assumptions of ANDROS. Governor WINTHROP,* on the other hand, had been appointed to the direction of the colony of the Bay, and which took more appropriately the name of Massachusetts, by the Plymouth Company in England, instead of Governor CRADOCK, who never came over. THOMAS DUD- LEY was also appointed deputy governor. Yet, previously to their leaving England, the principal members of the company entered into a solemn agreement, providing that "the whole government, together with the patent [obtained about five months before] for the said plantation, be first by an order of court legally transferred and established to remain with us and others which shall inhabit upon the same plantation." f This compaiiy landed, with their charter or patent, at Salem,:); (a settlement formed but a few years before, and then under the government of JOHN ENDICOTT,) July 12, 1630. From Salem they went first to Charles- town, and then settled at Boston, which became, from nearly that period, excepting only a few meetings at Newtown, or Cambridge, the seat of government down to the present day. The instrument which vested the executive power in a governor, deputy governor, and eighteen assistants, constituted a General Court, consisting of these officers and the freemen of the colony. But alterations were soon made ; for, in 1631, the General Court enacted that the governor, deputy governor, and assistants should be chosen by the freemen alone ; and, in 1634, they erected a representative body, which, ten years after, when the court was divided into two houses, took the name of deputies, as the other house took that of magis- trates. Trial by jury was early introduced ; yet not until the Court of Assistants had often judged and punished in a summary way. Thus it was, that, while a respectful acknowledgment of subjection to the mother country and dependence on her was frequently made, and the colonists boasted the name and privileges of Englishmen, they still retained the right of popular elections, and formed a government representative, yet dignified, and in all respects paternal. II. In its literary institutions. If in Holland the Puritans exhibited an anxious apprehension of injury to the youth from the irreligious influences surrounding them, the considerate, religious colonists of Massachu- setts manifested, with much consistency, a wakeful care to instil instruction into their minds, when removed to the wildernesses of America. As early as 1636, the General Court appro- priated 400 to the erection of a public school at Newtown, afterwards called Cambridge. "Scarcely," says the Rev. Dr. HOLMES, "had the venerable founders of New England felled the trees of the forest, when they began to provide means to insure the stability of their colony. Learning and religion they wisely judged to be the firmest pillars of the church and commonwealth." What the General Court had contemplated and partially provided for, the liberality of JOHN HARVARD, the worthy minister of Charlestown, who died in 1638, aided to accomplish. To the public school at Newtown he left by will 779 17s. 2d. ; and by order of court, and in honor of its earliest benefactor, the school was named Harvard College, and the town called Cambridge, in memory of the place in England, at whose university sev- eral of the influential "planters" had received their own education. The establishment of this college, consecrated " to CHRIST and the church," has been generally regarded as a striking proof of the far-seeing wisdom of the fathers of Massachusetts. * Cui pudor, et justitiae soror, Incorrupt,! fides, nudaque veritas, Quando ullum invenient parem? f American Annals, vol. i. p. 247- Also President Quincy's elaborate History of Harvard College. I Hutchinson, Coll. Papers, pp. 25, 26. $ See Winthrop's History of New England, edited by Hon. J. Savage. 76 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. It shared the prayers and best wishes of ministers and churches, and proved a nursery of many " plants of renown," distinguished not in the walks of sacred labor alone, but in council, at the bar, upon the bench, and even in the field. For more than half a century it was the only col- lege in North America, and is now the best endowed of all our literary institutions. Within the present bounds of the commonwealth, two other institutions, Williamstown and Amherst Colleges, have since been incorporated, and have enjoyed a very considerable share of legis- lative patronage, besides the results of private liberality. In addition to these is the important Theological Seminary at Andover, whose graduates are found, not officiating as pastors of our own churches only, but laboring in the missionary stations, from the Sandwich Islands, in the east, to the regions assigned our own Indians in the west ; also a similar institution of the Baptist denomination at Newton, emulating its elder sister, and the " Wesleyan Academy " of the Methodists at Wilbraham.* Equal attention was at an early period paid to the establishment of common schools in the several townships ; and academies have been founded in not a few of the counties of the state, as at Andover in Essex county, Leicester in Worcester county, &c. Thus it has resulted that the inhabitants are found capable of reading, writing, and casting accounts, with very rare exceptions among male and female adults, to an extent as great, probably, as in any state of the Union, with the exception perhaps of Connecticut, and comparing with any the most favored population in the world. Indeed, the schools of Massachusetts have been and are the just cause of gratulation and pleasure with every intelligent friend to the permanent prosperity of its citizens. III. In its churches. These were esteemed by their founders the glory of the community. For the enjoyment and transmission of religious liberty, mainly, the country had been settled. As is specified in their patent, and as they profess in the articles of their association, it was to advance the kingdom of CHRIST by the conversion of the savages of America, as well as to escape the pains and penalties of unrighteous orders in council against liberty of conscience in religion, that they were willing to encounter the perils of the sea, or the equally threatening perils of the land. " O that I might have heard you had converted some, before you had killed any," exclaimed the pious ROBINSON in Holland, when, in 1623, he heard of the bold energy of the warrior STANDISH^ who had stifled a threatening insurrection of Indians against the feeble colony, by killing with his own hand its fomenter and leader. And this was the feeling which prompted the missionary labors of "the apostle" ELIOT, as that early, consistent, and attached friend of the Indians, and who translated the whole Bible into their language, has not unaptly been named. Nay, it was chiefly through the efforts of Governor WINSLOW, when visiting England on the affairs of the colony, that in 1649 was founded the Society for propagating the Gospel, having principally in view America as its field of labor. GOOKIK, the MAYHEWS, and other worthies exerted themselves nobly in this cause ; and several Indian churches were gathered, and sustained as long as subjects for such attention continued among us. Harvard College was soon in a capacity to supply no small number of those worthy men, who formed an efficient ministry for the multiplied religious communities that grew up with the respective settlements or towns. These churches were gathered, served, and maintained, with direct reference to the authority of the Holy Scriptures. Their first supply came, of course, from abroad, for not a class received the honors of the college till more than twenty years after the settlement at Plymouth ; and even afterwards, especially on the disgraceful persecutions that so soon followed the restoration of the monarchy in the person of CHARLES II., several excellent ministers accrued to our commonwealth, and shone as lights in the churches, aiding to maintain in them a primitive faith and a holy practice. IV. In the industrial pursuits of its inhabitants. The evidence of thrift, in an application to all those arts and employments by which human life is sustained, rendered comfortable, or adorned, is in few communities more rife, percep- * See State Institutions. f See Allen's Biog. Diet., &c. STATES AND TERRITORIES. MASSACHUSETTS. 77 tible, and tangible, than in the industrious communities of the citizens of Massachusetts. For the special statistics which exhibit this evidence, reference is made in this work. But, although the present notices must be rapid and brief, it will be of benefit to classify a few of the par- ticulars that deserve attention in the general estimate. The soil of the state, when compared with portions of the Union, is not considered as the most inviting from its fertility, being hard and unyielding, generally, and often rocky. But the climate is wholesome, the air bracing ; and patient, skilful cultivation brings its reward. Yet at a very early period the whale, cod, and other fisheries attracted many. The coasts of New England had been visited successfully before any European settlements of a perma- nent nature were made. And, since that period, the fisheries have been pursued Avith highly important results not merely as relates to the supply of food and increase of wealth, out the training also of a hardy, and skilful, and adventurous race of mariners. These pursue the whale in every ocean, and return richly laden with the spoil. That perilous employment has found no men more energetic and able than the whalemen of Massachusetts. Manufactures of almost every kind have flourished, and still flourish, in this state. Those of cotton fabric are detailed in the account given of Lowell, Waltham, &c., exhibiting not merely a large and judicious investment of capital, and the application of ingenuity and skill to the several facilities for rendering the labor easy and profitable, but, more especially, delighting the philanthropist with the appearance of health, sound morals, and a cheerful devotion to labor, joined with self-cultivation, particularly in the female operatives, hardly, if at all, paralleled in any other portion of the civilized world. In regard to commerce, it has often been said of New England, that " her canvas whitens every sea ; " and Massachusetts is the most commercial of this family of states. Salem engaged among the first in the trade to the East Indies, and derived immense wealth from the skill, hardihood, and faithfulness of her intelligent seamen. But Boston has been a noted mart from its very settlement. Its commerce has literally extended to every sea, and the first American vessel that circumnavigated the globe sailed in 1787 from her port. The manufacture of iron was commenced as early as 1643 ; but the minerals of the common- wealth are not abundant, and its furnaces and forges are supplied chiefly from other states. In carpentry of every kind much is annually effected, and furniture of all sorts is extensively exported to the West Indies, along with the produce of the dairy, the orchard, and the meadow. Passing from this view of the commonwealth, its history demands attention, and may be considered advantageously in several periods. 1. From the settlement, respectively, of the Plymouth colony, in 1620, and that of the Bay in 1626, or '8, and 1630, to the union of both in one government, 1692.* These two colonies alone are mentioned, as space cannot here be afforded to a labored survey of the variations in the jurisdiction of the state at different times. Thus, at one period, Maine and Nova Scotia were attached to the Plymouth colony, and included in its government. At another, New Hampshire formed a part of Massachusetts, and shared the cares of its rulers. Maine, too, was an important portion of the state for many years, until it became itself a sovereignty in 1820. The period above stated includes, then, the emigrations from England, which lasted without intermission to the times of the commonwealth under CROMWELL, when the friends of a repub- lic could enjoy at home what had been sought before in America. It includes, likewise, the bloody struggles with hostile, marauding savages, stung by want, by envy and criminal neglect, as well as corrupted by the evil examples of worthless men, such as in every period since have abounded on Indian borders. And it embraces particularly that critical season in which, under the brave and cunning PHILIP, son of MASSASOIT, and sachem or king of the Wampanoags, * Plymouth colony embraced the territory of the present counties of Plymouth, Bristol, Barnstable, Dukes, and Nantucket, with the exception of the town of Hingham, and that of Massachusetts Bay, the residue of the state. See Borden's Map of Massachusetts 78 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. a most deadly warfare had well nigh depopulated several of their rising settlements, although it terminated fatally for the Indians.* Yet this period, as we have seen, though it be' one that includes such a calamitous contest with the natives of the country, extensively leagued together, and ably led on, was not barren of Christian effort to civilize and convert them. The history of these exertions is no small part of the true glory of the state. This period, too, embraces the trials of leading men with the arbitrary councils and exactions of a corrupt and licentious court, under the brother STUARTS, CHARLES and JAMES, until, in the memorable case of ANDROS, the faithful representative of the latter king, a weak, yet tyrannical despot, the abuse of power met not only a firm resistance, but personal violence, in actual seizure and imprisonment. The revolution of 1689 could in no part of the British dominions give greater joy than in Massachusetts. For it quelled the fear of a retribution for certain convenient assumptions of power, which might, for very many years, have well been anticipated. And it prepared the way r or a government, which, although it abridged subsequently, and for a long period, the exercise of a popular voice in elections, commenced with a chief magistrate named by a clergyman of Massachusetts^ one of the agents of the colony. 2. The next period may extend to the taking of Louisburg from the French in 1745. It oegins with the operation of the new charter, which was soon effected, and the government organized ; and it develops a series of contentions between the provincial assembly, or magistrates and deputies, and the crown officers, beginning with the successor of Sir WIL- LIAM PHIPS, and lasting for near a quarter of a century. These disputes tended to discipline the minds of those who engaged in them, and to extend their views, rendering political sub- jects familiar; while, at the same time, the extent of territory subjected to the jurisdiction of the crown governors, embracing, not the colonies of Plymouth and the Bay alone, (as before observed,) but also Maine, Nova Scotia, the territory of New Brunswick, and the islands J along the coast, and also New Hampshire occasionally, increased the connection by sea, at least, with a broad country, and familiarized the colonists to enlarged calculations and ex- tended enterprise. Much, however, of the distinctive features of the old and rigid Puritans had now been softened. Other views in theology were occasionally broached. The discipline of the churches began, with the increase of trade and commerce, to decline ; and although, in the main, a spirit of religion continued to distinguish the community, when compared with other portions of the British dominions, it cannot be denied that " the gold had become dim, and the most fine gold changed." Near the end of the period, nevertheless, a revival of religion was witnessed, of great power. It commenced at Northampton, under the searching ministry of the eminent JONATHAN ED- WARDS, and extended widely ; for in the midst of it WHITEFIELD visited America, and fanned, though he did not produce, the flame. But the sagacity and energy of Governor SHIRLEY, in planning the expedition to Cape Breton, engrossed soon the cares and efforts of the colonists, and prepared the way for the suc- ceeding period of their history, the opening and presentation of a drama in which the world is concerned. The complete success of the expedition drew the attention of the mother country towards its colonies, which it had previously underrated ; the pay, in ready money, added greatly to the colonial aggrandizement, and encouraged an active industry, while it empowered the hitherto straitened inhabitants to avail themselves of the resources of their country, and, in various ways, aided the advance of the approaching revolution. Still they were among the most loyal subjects of the crown, and gloried, as yet, in the privileges as well as name of Englishmen. * See Holmes's Annals, Drake, and their authorities. f Increase Mather, when desired by King William III., nominated Sir W. Phips. J Holmes's Annals, sub 1692, and Allen. $ See Tracy's Great Awakening. STATES AND TERRITORIES. MASSACHUSETTS. 79 3. From 1745 to the revolution, the history of Massachusetts is familiar to every politician of the day. In the war for subduing Canada provincialists took a deep interest, and were extensively and warmly engaged. And it proved a school for not a few of those whose courage was soon to be tested in the scenes of Lexington, Concord, Bunker Hill, and Boston. And as the difficulties with Great Britain originated in Massachusetts, her people were at no time backward to discharge their full share of duty, in council and in action, when the flames of war spread widely, and the whole series of English colonies along the coast were roused, as by the community of one spirit, to draw the sword in defence of their injured rights. But the history of the American revolution, its causes, progress, accomplishment, and results, forms a theme too vast to be comprised in limits such as are assigned to this brief and rapid sketch. Men were in long preparation for the opening contest. The British ministry are encroaching and arbitrary. A decided stand is taken and maintained ; and Massachusetts and her sister colonies become, at length, an independent nation. 4. The formation of a constitution for the state, which was effected in 1780, marks an im- portant era in its history. A sublime spectacle indeed was presented, when the delegates were engaged in fixing the boundaries of civil rights and claims, and establishing the foundations of social order and prosperity. Yet not a less sublime spectacle appeared, when, in 1820, after a lapse of forty years, a revision of the same constitution was publicly effected, under the presiding auspices of that distinguished son of Massachusetts, who succeeded WASHING- TON as President of the United States, and had been a principal framer of the civil constitu tion of his own state. That must be a people of peculiar character, among whom it is possible, without war, or contentious turbulence, or violence of any kind, or tendency to abandonment or licentious- ness, to take apart the constituent portions of a civic system, and readjust them as quietly and orderly as if they formed but the mechanism of a watch. Yet several of our states have suc- cessfully followed the example. How nearly impracticable has it been in South America ! In 1786, the strength of attachment to " law and order " was tested by the rebellion. Yet this served, probably, to convince the majority, that, in order to maintain their freedom, that freedom must be guarded sedulously by wise provisions, to which men must submit. The quelling of that rebellion seems to have destroyed the very seeds of anarchy and confusion. Still, the sympathy excited by the French revolution threatened for a time no little disturbance of the political quiet, until the extravagances of the miserable leaders alienated from them all sober men. 5. The actual adoption of the federal constitution forms another era. The state had just experienced the necessity of resorting to arms to preserve its own domestic government. And it was but right to expect that its leading men should prove warm advocates for a system of rule that should fulfil the legitimate end of such an establishment, and be " a terror to the evil, and a praise and encouragement to them that do well." Under the subsequent operation of this government, Massachusetts has partaken both of the weal and woe of the United States. She has furnished from the beginning her quota of able men in the councils of the nation, and twice has a citizen of her own been promoted to the presidential chair. Her orators and statesmen from AMES to WEBSTER have distinguished themselves, and honored and gratified their constituents, while they have contributed to advance the welfare and fame of their country. In the mean while, that is, in 1820, Maine, ripe for self-government, was disconnected, and became a separate and independent state. The measure, it was apprehended, would greatly diminish the weight and influence of Massachusetts in the national councils, by the withdraw- ment of so large a constituency in respect to representation. Yet has the increase of popu- lation since been such, that at the present time it is nearly as great within the actual bounds of Massachusetts proper, as it was in both territories during the last year of the union of Maine with the state. The deliberate adjustment of the various civil and political rights and privileges of a people, as asserted and maintained on this side the Atlantic, published in regular codes of law ; the enrolment of citizens authorized to vote, whereby the violences attending some elections 80 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. elsewhere are avoided violences, in the detail of which the enemies of republican institu- tions greatly delight and triumph ; the deeply-engraven spirit of their forefathers, which can with difficulty be erased ; the strong love of home and its enjoyments, ruling in the hearts of absentees,* and exerting an attractive influence in every climate ; the general respect for re- ligion and its ministers, which yet lingers in the population, and is sustained by the ordinary worth of those who bear the character of pastors and sacred guides ; the introduction and general ex- tension of instruction by schools on the Sabbath as well as the week days ; the ample provision made for education, and the distinction and influence gained by real science and moral worth in heads of colleges and eminent professors ; the improvements made in agriculture, rendering the farmer desirous and capable of raising much from a few acres, rather than superficially to run over a large extent but half cultivated ; the improved character of seamen ; the introduc- tion of the temperance reform, and establishment of literary and benevolent associations, all conspire to augur well for the future prosperity of the state. In the catalogue of governors will be seen the names of several whom the people "delighted to honor," and whose memory will be dear to the intelligent, sober, religious patriot. The names of CARVER, WINSLOW, BRADFORD, WINTHROP, HAYNES, among the early chief magistrates, and STRONG f among those of recent years, can hardly be named without emotion. The fame of POWNALL and HUTCHINSON, as faithful recorders, and of HANCOCK and ADAMS in the list of patriots, is spread as widely as the history of the state ; and FRANKLIN, BOWDOIN, ADAMS, both the father and son, can never be forgotten. Among judges and counsellors, ministers of the gospel, authors and teachers, physicians, merchants, farmers, and mechanics, in short, in every department of life will be found those who have honored themselves by their talents, integrity, and usefulness, and proved worthy sons of a distinguished mother. All such will join in the devout aspiration with which the public document for her annual fasts and thanksgivings closes, "GOD SAVE THE COMMONWEALTH OF MASSACHUSETTS!" See Pittsfield. Heu pietas, heuprisca fides ! NOTE REFERRED TO ON PAGE 74. 1. Those with this mark (*) brought their wives with them ; those with this (f), for the present, left them either in Holland or England. 2. Some left behind them part, and others all their children, who afterwards came over. 3. Those with this mark () deceased before the end of March. Names. No. in Family. Names. No. in Family. 1. Mr. John Carver,* 8 2. William Bradford,* 2 3. Mr. Edward Winslow,* 5 4. Mr. William Brewster,* 5. Mr. Isaac Allerton,* 6. Captain Miles Standish,* 7. John Alden, 8. Mr. Samuel Fullor.f 9. Mr. Christopher Martin,*5 4 10. Mr. William Mullins,*$ 11. Mr. William White,* 12. Mr. Richard Warren,t 13. John Rowland, c 14. Mr. Stephen Hopkins,* Names. 15. Edward Tilly,*$ 16. John Tilly,*$ 17. Francis Cook,f 18. Thomas Rogers 19. Thomas Tinker,* 20. John Ridgdale,* 21. Edward Fuller,* 22. John Turner,^ 23. Francis Eaton,* 24. James Chilton,*$ 25. John Crackston,$e 26. John Billington,* 27. Moses Fletcher, $/ 28. John Goodman,^ iy. 4 3 2 i*aniea. no* 111 r < 29. Degory Priest,6 g 30. Thomas Williams,^ 31. Gilbert Winslow, iiuuy 1 1 1 2 32. Edmund Margeson, 1 3 33. Peter Brown, 1 2 3 34. Richard Britterige, h 35. George Soule, i 1 3 36. Richard Clarke, 1 3 37. Richard Gardner, 1 3 2 38. John Allerton, 39. Thomas English, 1 1 4 40. Edward Dotey.j ) ^ 1 41. Edward Leister, j 1 101 So there were just 101 who sailed from Plymouth in England, and just as many arrived in Cape Cod harbor. And this is the solitary number who, for an undented conscience, and the love of pure Chris- tianity, first left their native and pleasant land, and encountered all the toils and hazards of the tumul- tuous ocean, in search of some uncultivated region in North Virginia, where they might quietly enjoy their religious liberties, and transmit them to posterity, in hopes that none would follow to disturb or vex them. Prince's Annals. a One of these was the servant who died before their arrival. b Besides the son born in Cape Cod harbor, named Per- egrine. c He was of Governor Carver's family. d One of these was a son born at sea, and therefore named Oceanus. e Mr. Morton calls him Craxton. / Mr. Morton seems to mistake in calling him Jose. fMr. Morton calls him Digery. Mr. Morton calls him Bitteridge. i He was of Governor Winslow's family. j Mr. Morton seems to mistake in calling him Doten. /. They were of Mr. Hopkins's family. STATES AND TERRITORIES. MICHIGAN. 81 MICHIGAN. This is one of those members of the American Union which were for- merly comprised in the " North-west Territory." In the year 1640, it was partially explored by a few French traders from Canada ; and the first settlement was formed at Detroit, in 1670. By the peace between France and England, in 1763, the latter obtained possession of the territory, and, at the termination of the revolutionary war, ceded it to the United States retaining control of Detroit, however, until 1796. It was organized as a territory of the United States in 1805 ; but, in the course of the war of 1812, again fell into the hands of the British, from whom it was recovered, in a short period, by the American forces under General Harrison. In 1836, it was admitted into the Union as an independent state. Boundaries and Extent. Bordered on the northern and eastern fronts by two of the great lakes, and parted near its centre by another, the land surface exhibits two distinct peninsulas the base of one lying adjacent to Ohio and Indiana on the south, and that of the other com- mencing at the boundary of Wisconsin on the south-west. The main peninsula, known as Michigan proper, is bounded north by the waters of Lakes Huron and Michigan ; east by Lakes Huron and St. Clan*, and by a portion of Lake Erie, with the intermediate straits or rivers ; south by the states of Ohio and Indiana ; and west by Lake Michigan. The northern or upper peninsula is bounded north by Lake Superior ; east and south-east by Lake Huron and the waters therewith connected ; south by Lake Michigan ; and south-west by the Me- nonomee and Montreal Rivers, which separate it from Wisconsin. The southern peninsula is 282 miles long, with an average breadth of 140 ; the length of the northern is 324 miles, and its mean width 60. The whole area of the state, including some 36,300 square miles of water surface, comprises about 92,500 square miles. Its geographical position is between 41 30' and 47 2(X north latitude, and extends from 82 25' to 90 30' west longitude. Government. The governor, lieutenant governor, and senators are elected biennially, and the representatives annually the latter numbering 54, and the Senate consisting of 18. These elections are by the people, who, by a late amendment of the constitution, elect also the judges and cabinet officers. The sessions of the legislature commence annually on the first Monday of January ; and the present seat of government is established at Lansing, Ingham county. A residence of only six months in the state, immediately preceding an elec- tion, confers the right of voting on all white males who have attained their majority. Judiciary. Until the recent modification of the constitution, the judges of the Supreme Court were appointed by the governor and Senate for seven years. The Supreme Court comprises a chief justice and four associate justices, one being assigned to each of the 11 82 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. five judicial circuits into which the state is divided. These courts hold one or two terms an nually in each county ; and there are also County Courts, having general common law juris- diction, both civil and criminal. Persons charged with offences punishable by confinement in the State Prison may demand trial before the circuit judge, who in such case is to preside in the County Court. The county judges hold office four years. Probate Courts are held in each county, the judges of which, as well as those of the county courts, are elected by the people. .Education. The subject of education has received a just share of public attention. The common school system is generously supported, and many literary institutions of a higher order have also been established and liberally endowed. At Ann Arbor is located Michigan University, which has academic branches in various other parts of the state. There are sundry colleges, maintained by different religious denominations, and generally in a flourishing condition. In ] 849, the number of scholars in the state, which derived benefit from the public funds appropriated for purposes of education, was upwards of 125,000. There is a Board of Education, consisting of eight members, chosen by the legislature, which has charge of a well-endowed state Normal School, at Ypsilanti. Munificent appropriations have also been made for the erection and maintenance of asylums for the deaf, dumb, blind, and insane. Finances. At the opening of the year 1850, the state debt exceeded the immediate available means of payment by somewhat more than $2,000,000. During the year ending November 30, 1850, the receipts into the treasury amounted to $429,268, and the expendi- tures to $449,355. The revenue is derived not only from direct state taxes, but from specific taxes, charges on sales of public lands, and other sources. It was estimated by the governor, in a late annual message, that the assessment of property for purposes of taxation, instead of being based, as heretofore, on a valuation of only about $30,000,000, would be more equitably made if based upon a cash valuation ; in which case the value of taxable property, it is sup- posed, must exceed $100,000,000. Surface, Soil, fyc. Michigan proper presents a diversity of surface. It is mostly either level or slightly swelling, but is occasionally rough and hilly ; and towards ths central points, between the eastern and western shores, is elevated to a height of some six to seven hundred feet, forming rugged and irregular ridges. On the western side of this range of eminences, the land slopes gently and smoothly towards the lake, but again rises on the coast into steep and broken sand banks and bluffs. The northern half of this peninsula is as yet but sparsely peopled ; and its soil is regarded as inferior to that of the southern portion, although most of the lands in the interior are said to be, in general, well adapted to agricultural purposes. In the settled parts, the soil is quite productive ; and flax, hemp, all the varieties of grains, garden vegetables, &c., are raised in abundance. The forests yield excellent timber, of almost every description known in this climate ; as, the oak, walnut, hickory, elm, ash, maple, syca- more, white wood, hackberry, cotton wood, poplar, butternut, cherry, &c. There are also large tracts of pine, spruce, and hemlock-trees in the northerly parts of the state. Of the upper or northern peninsula, no very great amount of knowledge has yet been obtained, beyond what is, in some degree, connected with the recent geological survey of this region. It is but thinly inhabited by permanent residents, its soil promising but poor remuneration to the culti- vator. Mountains, valleys, hills, plains, forests, and rivers variegate the surface. The most lofty of the elevations ascend to a height of 2000 feet ; some of the forests embrace millions of acres of pines and other evergreens ; and a hundred rivers, large and small, affording valuable mill sites, flow from the uplands into the lakes, on either side of the Porcupine Mountains, the grand ridge which towers as a sort of dividing barrier between Lakes Superior and Michigan. Rivers. The high lands in the central parts of Michigan proper give rise to several large streams, which generally run into the lakes on either side. The principal of these are Raisin and Huron, flowing into Lake Erie ; the Rouge, Clinton, Black, Saginaw, Thunder-Bay, and Cheborgan, emptying into sundry straits and bays on the east ; and the still larger rivers, St. Joseph, Kalamazoo, Monistic, Maskegon, and Grand, which connect with Lake Michigan on the west, and are partly navigable. Small lakes, yielding plenty of fine fish, abound in the STATES AND TERRITORIES. MICHIGAN. 83 southern counties of this peninsula. Excepting the Montreal and Menonomee, which form a part of. the boundary, the rivers of the northern peninsula, though numerous, are com- paratively inconsiderable, so far as they have yet been explored. The most important appears to be the Ontonagon River, which flows into Lake Superior. Internal Improvements. The Central Railroad, extending from Detroit to Lake Michigan, and the Southern Railroad, finished as far as Hillsdale, are the principal public works of this class within the state. They were both originally projected, and partially com- pleted, under the authority of the state, whose property they were until 1846, when they were sold to certain incorporated companies. The Central was disposed of for $2,000,000, and the Southern for $500,000. Several branches extend in different directions from the above roads, embracing an aggregate length of some 70 miles. Other works have been projected, and will doubtless be prosecuted. Minerals. The northern peninsula of Michigan is known to be peculiarly rich in mineral treasures. In Ontonagon River, about the centre of the region, immense masses of native copper have been found ; and there are doubtless vast beds of that and other minerals that yet remain to be developed. Iron and lead are known to exist in abundance. Manufactures. Several millions of capital are employed in various descriptions of manu- factures ; but the articles produced are such, in general, as are only required for domestic use, or home consumption. Wheat flour is, perhaps, the only manufactured commodity which is exported to any considerable amount from the state. In 1849, there were 228 flouring mills in the state, which manufactured 719,478 barrels of flour. There are some hundreds of saw mills scattered throughout the several counties, which prepare for market large quantities of lumber, and some portions of this product are also sent abroad. Indians. There are several tribes, or parts of tribes, of the red races, dispersed in dif- ferent quarters of the state, the most numerous of which are the Chippewas, which compose upwards of one half of the Indian population, and reside mostly in the upper peninsula. The Ottawas are next in numerical order ; then follow the Monomonies and Pottawatamies, with a few Wyandots. These, altogether, number nearly 8000. They occupy various localities, dwelling for the most part on tracts specially reserved for their use. Population. Michigan, like the other North-western States, is peopled by the representa- tives of divers lands and races. The natives consist of the descendants of the aborigines, of the first French settlers, and mestizoes, or the offspring of white and Indian progenitors. Among the foreign population are immigrants from Great Britain, Germany, and other Euro- pean countries ; and there are multitudes of settlers from New England, New York, New Jersey > Pennsylvania, Virginia, and Canada. Very few of the African race are found in the state. Climate. There is a marked dissimilarity between the climates of the upper and lower peninsulas of Michigan, arising from their different geographical positions. The former is subject to great extremes of heat and cold, to sudden and severe changes, while the latter enjoys a comparatively mild and uniform temperature. Long and cold winters, followed by short and hot summers, are the principal seasons in the upper peninsula^ for the transitions are so rapid as to afford but a brief interval of spring or autumn. The contrast between the two portions of the state, in this respect, is owing, doubtless, to the varied influences of the winds from the lakes. The general adaptation of the climate to human health may be said to equal that of the central portions of Indiana and Illinois. Among the diseases most common are fever and ague, and other maladies originating in malaria. In some seasons, affections of the lungs, of the bowels, the limbs, &c., prevail to greater or less extent, depending upon atmospheric agencies. The goitre, or swelled neck, is a disease peculiar to the inhabitants residing on the lake shores. Religion. Of the religious denominations the Methodists are the most numerous. Pres- byterians, Baptists, Episcopalians, and Roman Catholics constitute the bulk of the remainder. There are, however, a few congregations of Lutherans, Dutch Reformed, Unitarians, Uni- versalists, &c. 84 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. Curiosities. Among these may be classed the ancient forts or mounds, the relics of former races, many of which are found in this and the neighboring states, varying in form and dimen- sions, and containing remains of human bodies, arrows, medals, ornaments, strangely-shaped vessels, &c., but as yet yielding no clew to the development of their mysterious origin. Cer- tain " garden beds," so called, are found in various parts of the state, evidently of very ancient Indian origin. In many instances they cover hundreds of acres, exhibiting traces of the most careful labor in the regularity of their outlines and compartments, and the fineness of their soil, as compared with the surrounding land. MINNESOTA (TERRITORY.) This was formerly a part of the vast country belonging to the United States which was acquired by the Louisiana purchase in 1803. It was then, with the surrounding regions, a rugged and unmeasured wilderness peopled only by savages, and had never been systematically explored by civilized man until about the period of its transfer. The tract now embraced within the limits of the territory was duly organized, and its boundaries defined, by an act of Congress, passed March 3, 1849, " to establish the terri- torial government of Minnesota." Boundaries and Extent. Bounded on the north by the boundary line between the posses- sions of the United States and Great Britain ; east and south of east by said boundary line to Lake Superior, and by a straight line thence to the northernmost point of Wisconsin in said lake ; also along the western boundary of Wisconsin to the Mississippi River, and down the main channel of said river to the point where the line of 43 north latitude crosses the same ; south on said line, being the northern boundary of Iowa, to the north-west corner of that state, whence the boundary proceeds southerly along the western limit of Iowa, until it strikes the Missouri River ; and west by the main channel of said river, as far as the mouth of White- earth River, and by the main channel of the latter until it strikes the boundary of the British possessions. The territory, at its northern extremity, reaches from east to west between the 90th and 103d degrees of west longitude, and comprehends an area of 83,000 square miles. Government. The government is, of course, temporary, subject to such alterations, and to such further division of the territory, as may be determined by act of Congress. All free white inhabitants, 21 years of age, are voters, and were eligible for any territorial'onice at the first election. A Council and House of Representatives compose the legislative assembly ; the former consisting of 9 members, chosen for two years, the latter comprising 18 members, elected annually. The legislature may increase the Council to 15 members, and the rep- resentatives to 39. The governor is appointed for four years, by the President and Senate of the United States. ^The secretary of state, in like manner appointed, is acting governor in the absence of the executive magistrate. Judiciary. The Supreme Court is composed of a chief justice and two associates, appointed for four years by the President of the United States. Two of these constitute a quorum. This tribunal holds an annual session at the seat of government. There are three judicial districts, in each of which one of the justices must reside, and hold a District Court, having the juris- diction of the United States District and Circuit Courts. Both courts possess chancery powers. The laws of Wisconsin, until repealed or modified, are valid in this territory. Education. To this subject all due regard is given. Two sections in each township are set apart for the support of schools. In all the settled places, school-houses are among the first edifices erected. In some towns public libraries are established, and courses of instruc- tive lectures maintained. Finances. By returns from five counties in the territory, made in January, 1851, it appears STATES AND TERRITORIES. MINNESOTA TERRITORY. 85 that the assessed value of property in those counties amounts to somewhat over $800,000 ; and measures are in progress for completing the valuation of the residue. The salaries of the territorial officers, as n> other and like cases, are provided for by the general government. By the act of organization, $20,000 were appropriated for the erection of public buildings at the capital, and $5000 for the purchase of a territorial library. Surface, Soil, fy-c. The face of the country, in the central parts of the territory, is gently undulating in its general character, and exhibits about equal proportions of prairie and timber land, intersected in every direction by clear and .beautiful streams, tributary to the Mississippi and Minnesota or St. Peter's Rivers, and navigable always in the spring for flat boats. This region also abounds in lakes of pure water ; and its soil is represented as being unrivalled in fertility. With some modification, the same remarks may apply to the other sections of the territory. The valley of the Red River of the north, extending south some 300 miles, from the northern boundary of the territory into the centre, is about 150 miles wide, and perfectly level, with the exception of a few tracts of wet prairie, and is admirably adapted to the culture of wheat and other grains. The soil, for the most part, throughout the territory, consists of a mixture of sand and black loam, and, being loose and porous, is peculiarly favorable to the rapid growth of bulbous and other roots. Potatoes have been known to yield 450 bushels to the acre. Vegetable crops of all kinds, and in luxuriant profusion, are brought earlier to matu- rity than in many regions farther south. In the valley of Minnesota River, the strawberry vine commonly attains a height of twelve inches. A large part of the territory is overspread with vast forests of excellent pine and other trees of great value for building. Rivers, fyc. Almost the entire eastern boundary, by the Mississippi and St. Croix Rivers, is navigable water : steamboats ply upon the former, within the territory, for upwards of 300 miles. At the north-east, the territory is bounded by that immense expanse of waters, Lake Superior. The Minnesota winds through a delightful valley, in a south and easterly direction, and has been ascended more than 200 miles. The Big Sioux, and other tributaries of the Missouri, flow southerly and westwardly. The Red River of the north, taking its rise near the centre of the territoiy, flows northerly, and is navigable for some 400 miles before passing into the British possessions. The Missouri, which constitutes a great portion of the western boundary, affords navigation during nearly its whole course along the territory. There are many other fine streams, and numerous large lakes, all presenting facilities for inland com- merce, such as are possessed by no one state or other territory in the Union. Internal Improvements. A canal, to connect Lake Superior with Lake Huron, has been much talked of, and probably at no distant day will be constructed ; as such a work will secure uninterrupted water communication down the great chain of lakes to the Atlantic coast. The removal of obstructions in the Mississippi and other rivers surveys for which purpose have been authorized by Congress will add many hundred miles to the already immense extent of navigable waters lying within and around this territory. The aid of railroads will of course soon be called in, to complete that system of internal improvements which Nature herself seems to have suggested. Minerals. In this newly-settled country no explorations on any considerable scale, for the purpose of developing its mineral resources, have as yet been undertaken. There can be no doubt that this territory possesses its full share of geological treasures, which in due time will excite the attention and repay the industry of its hardy and enterprising people. Manufactures. The only manufacturing branches now carried on to any great extent are those which are connected with the business of house-building, especially the manufacture of lumber. Of this article, although the work was begun so recently, a sufficiency is produced, not only to supply the home demand, but to furnish .annually some 20,000,000 feet of boards, logs, &c., for exportation to the markets below, on the Mississippi. A number of steam and saw mills have already been erected ; and so numerous are the mill sites, and so immense the water power within the territory, that this pursuit, together with others to which these advan- tages will apply, especially the manufacture of flour, must naturally add greatly to the public prosperity. 86 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. Indians. There are several tribes, or parts of tribes, still inhabiting certain tracts at the northern and western parts of the territory. To some of these, the Chippewas and others, lands had formerly been ceded ; but negotiations for the removal of the former have been en- tered into, and treaties for the extinction of the Indian title to other tracts have been provided for by Congress. Many of the most civilized are solicitous to become subjects of the laws of the territory, and to participate in its free institutions. Climate. Considering its high northern latitude, Minnesota enjoys a climate quite mild, in comparison with that of the more eastern states on the same parallel. The winters are less severe, except at some points in the neighborhood of the great lake ; but the weather is uni- form, regular, and subject to few or no sudden changes. The summers are temperate, and of sufficient length to bring forth and perfect the numerous agricultural products for which the soil is so well adapted. With abundance of pure water, and a salubrious atmosphere throughout the year, the people cannot but be favored with an uncommon measure of health. Religion. There are four beautiful church edifices in St. Paul, the capital, and several others in the towns of St. Anthony Falls and Stillwater. The several denominations of Christians consist of such as are usually found in the New England States. Population. The inhabitants of this territory, at the census of 1850, numbered but 6038, exclusive of Indians. But so desirable a country must soon attract towards it large reinforcements from the Northern and Eastern States. The tide of emigration, in fact, is already turned, and is moving with so strong an impulse in that direction, that long before the next decennial enumeration, Minnesota will no doubt have acquired the complement of inhab- itants necessary to her admission as an independent state. MISSISSIPPI, one of the most southern states of the American Union, was formerly included in the country claimed by France as a part of Louisiana. As early as 1716, a French colony settled on the spot now occupied by the city of Natchez, where they erected a fort ; but in 1729, the inhabitants, together with those of two other settlements in the vicinity, were exterminated by the neighboring Indian tribes, only three or four persons, out of 700, escaping the general massacre. The territory, for many years thereafter, remained exclusively in possession of the savages. In 1763, France ceded the whole territory east of the Mississippi River to Great Britain, the subjects of which power soon afterwards occupied and strength- ened the various posts, and began to settle around them. After several changes of proprie- torship, and much negotiation, during some 15 years prior to 1798, between England. Spain, STATES AND TERRITORIES. MISSISSIPPI. 87 and the United States, the country lying east of the Mississippi, and west of the boundary of Georgia, was, in 1800, erected into a distinct territorial government. It then comprehended both Alabama and Mississippi, under the name of the latter. In 1817, a separation took place, and Mississippi, having formed a constitution, was admitted into the Union as an inde- pendent state. Boundaries and Extent. This state is bounded north by Tennessee, east by Alabama, south by Louisiana and the Gulf of Mexico, and west by Mississippi and Pearl Rivers, dividing it from Arkansas and Louisiana. It extends from 30 10' to 35 north latitude, and from 88 KX to 91 35' west longitude, and contains 47,156 square miles, its extreme length being atfout 338 miles, and its breadth averaging 135. Government. The governor is chosen every two years by the people, and is eligible only for four in any period of six years. The Senate consists of 30 members, one half elected every two years; the term of service of each is four years. The representatives, 91 in number, are chosen biennially. The people also elect judges, state secretary and treasurer, chancellor, and sheriffs. White male residents in the state for one year, being 21 years of age, enjoy the right of suffrage. The legislature meets at Jackson, in the month of January, every other year. Judiciary. The state is divided into three judicial districts, in one of which, every two years, a judge of the High Court of Errors and Appeals is chosen for six years. Circuit Courts are held in seven different districts, by judges resident and chosen therein, and have original jurisdiction of all criminal cases, and in civil cases inv^Lying more than 50 dollars. The Court of Chancery has full equity powers. Education. There are several colleges in the state, which are generously endowed and in flourishing condition. Academies and other literary institutions are numerous and well sustained. Common schools are also established throughout the state. In 1840, there were 8360 white inhabitants above the age of 20 years who could neither read nor write. Finances. The receipts into the state treasury for the year ending 30th April, 1850, amounted to $379,402*63, and the expenditures during the same period to $284,999-58. The sources whence the revenue is derived are, a state tax, internal improvement, sinking and other funds. The chief items of expenditure are for judicial and legislative purposes. Among the enumerated items per last returns is one of 17 cents, as the contribution of the state for common schools the support of these institutions being confided, under special laws, to the several counties. The state debt, incurred for banking purposes, amounted, in 1840, to $7,000,000. Surface, Soil, &fc. For about 100 miles inland, from the junction of the southern border of the state with the Gulf of Mexico, the surface is low and generally level, presenting a series of swamps and woodlands, overgrown with cypress and pines, with occasional open prairies, a'nd flooded marshes. The land then becomes more elevated and uneven, and so con- tinues to the northern extremity of the state, but nowhere rises to a height sufficiently lofty to deserve the name of a mountain. A vast tract of table land extends over much of the state, terminating in the low coasts of the Mississippi River. This produces, in its natural state, an immense growth of oak, maple, ash, and other timber, together with an undergrowth of grape-vines, spicewood, papaw, and other plants. The soil throughout is naturally very fertile, especially those alluvial lands on the river banks, which are not liable to inundation. The staple product of the state is cotton, which is raised in great abundance ; and, by slight cultivation, the soil yields profusely Indian corn, rice, wheat, rye, and other grains, sweet potatoes, indigo, tobacco, melons, grapes, figs, apples, plums, peaches, lemons, oranges, &c. Rivers. Besides the Mississippi, which washes the western margin of the state by its windings through a space of 530 miles, the Yazoo is the most considerable stream which flows wholly within the state ; this is 200 miles in length, passing through a healthy region, affording navigation for large boats some 50 miles, and emptying into the Mississippi near Vicksburg. Big Black River is of the same length, is alike navigable, and enters the Mississippi near Grand Gulf. Pearl River rises near the centre of the state, and in part divides it from 88 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. Louisiana. There are several other rivers of considerable magnitude ; as, the Tombig- bee, Homochitto, Pascagoula, &c. The state has a sea-coast of 70 miles, but no harbor sufficient for the admission of large vessels. Pascagoula Bay, 65 miles long by 7 wide, affords some inland navigation ; but its entrances admit no craft drawing more than 8 feet of water. Internal Improvements. Several railroads have been completed, or partially finished, within the state, and others have been projected. The most extensive work of this kind commences at Vicksburg, and proceeds in an easterly direction, partly across the state. Another extends from Natchez, and either intersects or is intended to intersect the former. The state presents numerous opportunities for advantageous public improvements, which in due time will doubt- less be prosecuted. Minerals. Mississippi is probably not rich in mineral products; at least no extensive investigations of her resources in this respect have yet been made. Clay, of good quality, suited to the manufacture of pottery and bricks, abounds in various localities ; and sundry descriptions of pigments have also been found. It is not known whether any coal formations, or any indications of metallic deposits, have yet been discovered. Manufactures. There are in the state a number of cotton factories, on a small scale, several mills of considerable importance for the manufacture of flour, and numerous other establishments, producing most of the articles required for domestic consumption or family use. The amount of capital employed for manufacturing purposes, in 1840, was less than $2,000,000. Indians. Large portions of the northern and eastern sections of the state are still held by the Choctaw and Chickasaw Indians. These tracts include some of the best lands in the state, abounding in broad and fertile prairies, which are well cultivated by their owners, who possess also large numbers of cattle, horses, swine, and sheep. These Indians are intelligent and industrious, many -of them being good mechanics. The females, also, are expert at spinning and weaving. Population. Between the years 1820 and 1830, the population of Mississippi increased more than 80 per cent. ; and between the latter year and 1840, the increase was more than 175 per cent. Of a population of 175,000, upwards of one half were slaves. The people are almost exclusively engaged in agricultural employments. Population in 1850, 606,555. Climate. For the most part the climate is decidedly healthy. The low country is of course subject to the ordinary diseases which prevail throughout all similar regions in the Southern States. But in the upper districts, the atmosphere is pure, and the climate, though variable, is temperate and salubrious. Religion. The most numerous of the religious denominations are the Methodists and Baptists the former, compared with the latter, numbering as 3 to 1. The Presbyterians are next in numerical order : and the Episcopalians have several flourishing parishes. STATES AND TERRITORIES. MISSOURI. MISSOURI is one of the Western or, at present, more properly, one of the Central states of the American Union. It formerly composed a part of the extensive tract, which, under the name of Louisiana, was purchased of France by the United States in the year 1803. In the following year, that portion of the country which now forms the State of Louisiana was set off from the residue, and denominated the Territory of Orleans ; the remainder being styled the District of Louisiana, until 1812, when the name was changed to the Territory of Missouri. Another division took place about eight years afterwards, and in 1821 the state was formed out of a section of that territory, and duly admitted into the Union. Some of the places within the present limits of Missouri were settled as early as the year 1764, by hunters and traders generally from the north and east. In that year the city of St. Louis was founded, now the largest commercial place on the Mississippi, excepting New Orleans. St. Charles, on the Missouri, was established in 1780, and New Madrid on the Mississippi, in 1787. Boundaries and Extent. Missouri is bounded north by the State of Iowa ; east by the Mississippi River, which separates it from the States of Illinois, Kentucky, and part of Ten- nessee ; south by the State of Arkansas ; and west by the Indian Territory, and by the River Missouri, dividing it from the Deserts of Nebraska. It extends from 36 to 40- 36' north lati- tude, and lies between 89 and 95 45' west longitude. Its area is estimated at 67,380 square miles, being about 278 miles in length by 235 in breadth. Government. The governor and lieutenant governor are chosen, by a plurality of the pop- ular votes, for four years, and are not eligible for two terms in succession. The lieutenant governor is ex officio president of the Senate. The legislature consists of a Senate, in number not less than 14 nor more than 33 ; and a House of Representatives, not to exceed 100 in num- ber. The former are chosen for four years one half every second year ; and the latter every second year, in counties, to serve two years. The legislature meets biennially, on the last Monday in December, and the members receive three dollars per diem for sixty days of the session, after which their pay is reduced to one dollar a feature that might be profitably adopted in other states. Judiciary. The Supreme Court, having appellate jurisdiction only, is composed of three judges, who hold office for twelve years. It holds two sessions annually. There are fourteen judicial circuits, with a like number of judges, who hold office for eight years. Circuit Courts are held twice a year in each county. These have exclusive jurisdiction in criminal matters, with power to correct the proceedings of County Courts and justices of the peace, subject to appeal to the Supreme Court. The supreme and circuit judges are appointed by the governor 12 90 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. and Senate. County Courts are established for each county, and are composed of three jus- tices elected by the people for four years. Their jurisdiction is limited to matters of probate and to county affairs. There are, also, at St. Louis and some other cities, local tribunals, with the ordinary powers of Municipal or Police Courts. Education. Several colleges flourish in different quarters of the state, most of them under the special auspices of some religious denomination. A good number of academies and other literary institutions have also been established. The common and primary schools are tolera- bly numerous ; but in 1850 there were over 20,000 white persons above the age of 20 years Avho could neither read nor write. Finances. The amount of ths state debt is about $685,000 ; the interest whereon is some $73,000 annually. In 1843, the public debt was less than one half the above sum. Surface, Soil, fyc. The surface and soil are much varied throughout the state. In some quarters, the lands are undulating and hilly, not rising, however, to a height that can be de- scribed as mountainous. Other portions are swampy, and subject to inundations, though heavily timbered, and having an alluvial soil of great fertility. The soil upon the uplands is in gen- eral very productive, consisting both of prairies and extensive tracts of woodland ; but these are interspersed with rocky ridges and elevated barrens. The low lands, bordering on the rivers, are extremely rich. Indian corn and other grains, hemp, flax, tobacco, and sweet potatoes, are among the products of the field. Cotton is raised in the southern section of the state. Among the forest-trees are various species of oak, walnut, locust, ash, cedar, &c. Yellow and white pine abound in some localities. Grapes are found in profusion among the underwood of the forests ; and most of the fruits common to the latitude of the state may be successfully cultivated. Rivers. This state is watered by numerous large streams, besides the great Rivers Missis- sippi and Missouri, the former of which flows along the eastern margin of the state, a distance, including indentations, of 550 miles ; while the latter strikes its south-west angle, passes southward along its western boundary, and, crossing its centre, after having traversed the territory 384 miles, enters the Mississippi near St. Louis. The Osage, affording boat naviga- tion for 660 miles, the Grand, Salt, Gasconade, Chariton, Maramec, and St. Francis, are rivers of considerable magnitude. Internal Improvements. The people of Missouri are favored with extraordinary facilities for internal intercourse, especially by water communication. These advantages are prosecuted to an incredible extent between St. Louis and all the great commercial marts of the south and west, and intermediate places, by means of steamboats and other craft, which navigate the principal rivers for hundreds and even thousands of miles. Such facilities naturally suggest numerous projects of improvement; and a system of railroads and canals, in all probability, will ere long be superadded. At the session of the legislature in 1851, bills were passed, appropriating $2,000,000 for expediting the construction of the Pacific Railroad, and $1,500,000 towards completing the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad. This measure caused an immediate flow of emigration into the counties contiguous to the proposed routes. The city of Hannibal, in particular, one of the termini, received greater additions to its population within the spring of 1851 than it had acquired during the whole of the three preceding years. Minerals. Missouri is remarkably rich in mineral treasures, especially in the value of its lead mines. These are known to occupy an area of over 3000 square miles. They are sit- uated within an average distance of 70 miles from the city of St. Louis. The ore is of that description denominated " galena," and is found, not in veins, but in separate masses. It yields from 80 to 85 per cent. 5,000,000 or 6,000,000 pounds are produced annually. Iron ore, of excellent quality, also abounds. In Washington county, there is a hill some 400 feet in height, three miles in length, and one mile wide at its base, known as the " iron mountain," which appears to be entirely composed of iron ore, yielding some 80 per cent, of the pure metal. There is also another eminence, about 300 feet high, one and a half mile wide at the base, consisting wholly of the species of iron ore called " pilot knob," and which is equally valuable. Copper, zinc, calamine, antimony, cobalt, nitre, plumbago, salt, &c., are among the STATES AND TERRITORIES. NEBRASKA. 91 mineral products of the same county and the contiguous region. Bituminous coal is abundant in various localities near the Mississippi. Manufactures. Iron, lead, and lumber are among the chief articles manufactured. There are also large numbers of grist mills, distilleries, potteries, brick, stone and marble yards, salt works, breweries, carriage and machine factories, and other establishments for the production of commodities requisite for home use, the whole employing a capital of several millions of dollars. Indians. There are no organized or distinct bands of Indians permanently settled within the state, most of the indigenous tribes having withdrawn to their allotted country beyond the western boundary of the state. Population. In 1810, the population was less than 20,000. During the following ten years, it had increased to upwards of 66,000. In 1830, it numbered 140,000 ; and in 1840, 383,000, including 58,000 slaves. Population in 1850, 684,132. Climate. The central and inland position of the state assures to its inhabitants extraordi- nary freedom from the sudden and trying changes which are felt by residents nearer tho sea- coast in the same latitudes. The difference of temperature between the cold of winter and the heat of summer is great the extreme range of the thermometer being from 8 below zero to 100 above. But the seasons, in their progress, are gradual and uniform, subject to few or no abrupt and violent transitions. The air is pure and salubrious, and the climate may be classed among those most favorable to health. Religion. The Methodists are the most numerous of the vanous religious denominations within the state. Next in numbers are the Baptists ; then the Presbyterians, Roman Catholics, and Episcopalians. There are, besides, several congregations of "Cumberland" and "Asso- ciate Reform " Presbyterians, and a few Unitarian societies. NEBRASKA is the name by which an immense wilderness, lying among the north-western possessions of the United States, is now designated. It is bounded on the north by the British possessions ; on the east by Minnesota Territory and the State of Iowa ; on the south by the Indian Territory, (proper,) the State of Texas, and the Territory of New Mexico ; "and on the west by the Territory of Utah and Oregon Territory. The Missouri flows along its entire eastern frontier, and the Platte and Arkansas Rivers water its southern borders, while its western limits are formed by the Rocky Mountains. With a vast sweep from the north-west towards the central part of the country, and thence curving to the north, a portion of this lofty chain encloses, as it were, in an amphitheatre nearly one half of the whole region. It reaches from the 38th to the 49th degree of north latitude ; its extreme south-eastern point lies in 95, and its extreme north-western in 114 west longitude. It is between 600 and 700 miles in length, and from 400 to 500 miles in breadth, and contains an area of some 300,000 square miles. All this broad expanse is yet to be subdivided, and gradually furnished with distinct forms of civil government, or remain as the barren heritage of the untamed races for whose behoof it seems naturally designed. At present, it is almost exclusively the abode of savages and wild beasts, and is traversed by civilized man only througli the like necessity which impels him to cross the pathless ocean on his way to countries beyond. Its natural resources have never yet been developed, and little more is known of its topography, its waters, forests, plants, minerals, &c., than what has been gathered by dint of a few partial explorations, or by travellers in their hurried journeys towards Oregon and California. From its geographical position it must be inferred that its., soil, climate, natural products, and capacities for improvement do not differ essentially from tnose of the states and territories by which it is encompassed. But there are no authentic data from which may be compiled any satisfactory amount of statistical information in the premises. 92 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. Maps, exhibiting the outlines of its principal features, have from time to tune been con- structed and published, wherefrom the names and localities of the most prominent and striking objects such as mountains, rivers, and lakes may in some partial degree be ascertained. Reliable and accurate surveys are yet to be undertaken and accomplished by authority ; until when the inquirer who would obtain exact details must be content with the meagre accounts of casual tourists, or the unauthenticated reports of adventurous visitors from the neighbor- ing regions. The manifold nations or independent tribes of aboriginal inhabitants sustain different relations to the people of the United States. Some of them, with whom treaties have been made, or negotiations held, are professedly friendly ; while others are treacherously hostile, and almost irreclaimable. They are frequently at war with each other, and in all the arts of civilization are generally behind the Indians who reside farther south. The number of Indians occupying the country between the Mississippi and the Rocky Mountains may be estimated at not far from 250,000, including those who have emigrated from the eastern side of the Mississippi, and settled in the Indian Territory proper. A view of the map of the country presents some striking lineaments, especially in the north-western quarter. The great basin, circumscribed as with a massive wall by the bold curvature of the Rocky Mountains, sends forth countless streams of varied extent, forming the sources of the Missouri River, and supplying the tract throughout with an abundance of watercourses, at remarkably regular distances. These streams are mostly dignified with names upon the maps ; but whether their positions, dimensions, and tendencies are correctly delineated, is a question to be determined by future and more exact inspection. ' The southerly and easterly portions of the country are also amply furnished with those aquatic arteries and veins so necessary to the existence of a nation. The rivers already mentioned, as washing the eastern and southern boundaries, also receive innumerable branches ; and there are some important streams which extend quite across from the very bases of the great mountain ridge on the west to the points of their junction with the Missouri, &c. Among the principal of these are the Platte, the Ni-obrarah, the Whiteearth, &c., with their numerous forks, all of which flow in an easterly direction. NEW HAMPSHIRE. It is generally conceded that the inhabitants of the New England States, as a body, exhibit some peculiar characteristics, when compared with those who dwell in other sections of our widely-extended and diversified Union. And it is known that the varied face of the country, and hence the local facilities for different occupations, together STATES AND TERRITORIES. NEW HAMPSHIRE. 93 with the history of different settlements, have all tended to produce diversities of character, habits, and employments. To these considerations must be added the different views and pursuits of the original settlers, the object of settlement being by no means the same in all the colonies. Now, it is not pretended that the first Europeans who colonized within the bounds of New Hampshire were, like those at Plymouth, seeking an asylum from persecution for their religion. We know that expeditions for fishing along the coast, and the trade in furs, occupied the attention of the earliest visitors, and that a considerable time elapsed, after the discovery and partial colonizing of the shores, before a regular government could be formed ; whereas, at the settlement of Plymouth, the principles on which the power of rule was to be based, and even those who were to exercise that power, were designated and resolved on before the land- ing of the company. Very different was the condition of those who commenced the efforts which resulted in establishing the State of New Hampshire. Their arrangements, therefore, consisted more in the regulations of a mercantile company than in a civil legislation, wi^i its provisions for insuring a permanent, dignified administration of well-adapted laws, the result of deliberate consideration. By the necessity of the case, however, this became their condition, in pro- cess of time. No proof is found of actual settlement before 1623. The precise date of the settlement, it has been candidly acknowledged, " cannot probably be ascertained." * This acknowledgment, however, relates only to some overt act, connected with settling; since both the year and season of the year are ascertainable. But the settlements were, for many years, greatly troubled by the conflicting claims of patentees. These claims were derived, originally, from the council of Plymouth, in the mother country. And of them it is remarked by Chalmers, that, " during the fifteen years of the existence of that company, it adopted the policy of conferring on various men several inter- fering parcels of New England ; which has thrown the greatest obscurity over its earliest history ; which long occasioned perplexing embarrassments to the different claimants, to the different colonies, and to England." f These transactions have, notwithstanding, been placed in as clear a light as the subject admits, by Dr. Belknap, the accomplished historian of New Hampshire, at a cost of much research. And we learn that Sir Ferdinando Gorges and Captain John Mason, as joint partners, obtaining a title to a territory they called Laconia, extending from Merrimac River to Sagadehock, (or the Kennebec,) and far inland, Mason having previously acquired the grant of another, reaching from the River Naumkeag to that of Piscataqua, and back to their sources, employed men to settle the country. Accordingly, successive establishments were made at Little Harbor and Dover, to which, from other causes, were added those of Exeter and Hampton, forming for themselves severally, in a few years, separate jurisdictions. Without entering into an account of these various governments, which of themselves were only of short duration, it is sufficient for our purpose to state in this place, that, by the year 1642, they were all absorbed in the general government of Massachusetts. This absorption was not, however, an arbitrary or violent act on the part of that state. In each instance of its occurrence, it was, from the necessity of the case, solicited by the settlements. Their feeble condition, exposed as they were to the attacks of the savages of the wilderness, who, especially about the year 1637, appear to have plotted the destruction of all European settlers along the coast ; the want of some superior authority, to act as an umpire in the disputes and difficulties which arose among themselves ; and, added to this, a desire to hold their lands not as tenants, but in simple fee, these were sufficient reasons for wishing to avail themselves of the matured authority, experience, and prosperity of Massachusetts. The three governments, therefore, of Dover, Exeter, and Piscataqua, or Portsmouth, after struggling for years with difficulties of a civil and ecclesiastical nature, were united to the * Farmer and Moore's Coll. vol. ii. p. 32. f Polit. Annals, vol. i. ch xvii. p. 472. 94 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. settlements in their vicinity to the south ; Exeter being first joined, by the authority of the court, to Essex county ; and afterwards, with the others, forming, for a time, the county of Norfolk ; * their history being blended, for the next forty years, with that of their neighbors. Hampton had, in the mean time, been settled from Massachusetts, and was, therefore, ac- counted as naturally belonging to that government, although within the present bounds of New Hampshire.! This latter name was assumed as early as 1629 ; when, after Gorges and Mason had been for several years united in the possession of a patent from the Plymouth council, embracing " all the lands between the Rivers Merrimac and Sagadehock," before cited, " and extending back to the great lakes and River of Canada, J and called Laconia" and under which patent their settlements had been made, as we have seen, Mason obtained for himself a new patent. The extent is thus described : " From the middle of Pascataqua River, and up the same to the furthest head thereof, and from thence north-westward, until sixty miles from the mouth of the harbor were finished; also, through Merrimac River, to the furthest head thereof, and so forward up into the land westward, until sixty miles were finished ; and from thence to cross overland to the end of the sixty miles accounted from Pascataqua River ; together with all islands within five miles of the coast." The territory included within these limits received the name which the state at present bears. The same council which issued the patent above cited had given to Gorges, in 1621, "a grant of all the land from the River of Naumkeag, now Salem, round Cape Anne to the River Merrimac ; and up each of those rivers to the furthest head thereof; then to cross over from the head of the one to the head of the other ; with all the islands lying within three miles of the coast." It had also, after giving several other discordant grants, sold to a company of gentlemen, named by Hutchinson, || " all that part of New England three miles to the south of Charles River, and three miles to the north of Merrimac River, from the Atlantic to the South Sea." The date of the last patent was March 19, 1627. It could hardly be expected that grantees of property so indefinite, or, if defined, so incon- sistently done, should mutually agree. We are not, therefore, surprised to find that the people of Massachusetts regarded Gorges's and Mason's claims with jealousy, and considered them in a hostile light ; nor that the death of Mason, who had been for some time using all his influence to procure a royal order for a general governor to be appointed for all New Eng- land, and thus to supersede those of Plymouth and Massachusetts, should be recorded by Governor Winthrop as a " mercy." 11 The conflicting claims we have alluded to must, almost necessarily, have originated hostile feelings, however we regret and disapprove them. Gorges, in his History of New England, declares, "that he could hardly get any, for money, to reside " in the country he claimed ; but the change of times and interests soon made it a place of refuge for persecuted religionists, and the settlements then advanced rapidly, until, attracting the attention of the royal government, " it was especially ordered, by the king's command, that none should be suffered to, go without license." Yet, though destitute of royal patronage, the settlements nevertheless " grew," as Colonel Barre, in the period of the American revolution, declared of them before the British Parliament, "by the neglect of them," chargeable on their mother country a neglect which rendered their own most stren- uous exertions necessary, and finally successful. * Including Salisbury, Haverhill, Hampton, Exeter, Portsmouth, and Dover. f See Belknap's History of New Hampshire, chaps, i. ii. iii. iv. + Wood, in 1634, says, " The place whereon the English have built their colonies is judged, by those who have the best skill in discovery, either to be an iland, surrounded on the north side with the spa- cious River Cannada, and on the south with Hudson's River, or else a Peninsula, these two rivers over- lapping one another, having their rise from the great lakes, which are not farre off one another, as the Indians doe certainly informe us." Such, at that time, was their geography of the country. N. E. Prospect, pp. 1, 2. Belknap, ut supra. || History Massach. vol. i. p. 16. 11 Winthrop'9 Journal, vol. i. 187, and Dr. Savage's note there. STATES AND TERRITORIES. NEW HAMPSHIRE. 95 In fact, to this principle we must refer the difference between the success that attended on the settlers of the B.ay State and that of the people employed by Gorges and Mason. This i sensibly and strikingly described by the judicious Belknap. " The difference between a man's doing business by,, himself, and by his substitutes," observes the doctor, " was never more finely exemplified than/in the conduct of the Massachusetts planters, compared with that of Sir Ferdinando Gorges ; what the one. had been laboring for above twenty years, without any success, was realized by the others in two or three years ; in five they were so far advanced as to be able to send out a colony from themselves, to begin another at Connecticut ; and, in less than ten, they founded a university, which has ever since produced an uninterrupted succession of serviceable men in church and state." * The history of New Hampshire may, with convenience, be divided into four distinct periods. The first will be the period we have just been reviewing that from the earliest settlements by the English to the union with Massachusetts. The time of that union will form another, consisting of nearly 40 years. The third embraces the royal government of the province, and down to the American revolution, and the fourth what has transpired since. I. Not mjich of interest, except that which is purely local, attaches to the history of the inconsiderable communities which were first formed. And yet it is no trifling subject for the contemplation of humanity. Courage and fortitude were needed, to face and endure the dis- tresses of an American wilderness, 3000 miles from home. The names, therefore, of Hilton, Waldron, Williams, Neale, Wiggin, Chadbourne, and others, their associates, will be cherished not merely by their posterity, but by a grateful community of free, prosperous men, who inherit the result of their sacrifices and labors. Nor less in the church of Christ will the recollections of piety and faith dwell on the founders of the sacred institutions under the gospel, by which light was communicated to the ignorant, and consolation to the afflicted, and benefit to all. This will perpetuate the names of Dalton, Dudley, Leveridge, Gibson, Parker, and even Wheelwright, notwithstanding his occasional deviations and errors ; nor, in the lustre of a succeeding period, will their " less light " be overlooked, or " shorn of its beams." It must not also be forgotten, that the original proprietors, especially Gorges and Mason, to whom others, discouraged by the multiplied and long-enduring difficulties they met, sold their respective shares, were themselves great losers by the enterprise. Neither of them lived to see the success of his expenditures, large and liberal as they were, and reckoned at 20,000 sterling for each of them ; but they transmitted to disappointed heirs a succession of lawsuits, crushed hopes, and mortifications. Yet they seem to have cherished to the last an approbation of their unrewarded efforts, and to have encouraged themselves in the hope that posterity would still reap important benefits from them. Let their names, then, be had in honor, and their example commend to their successors the exercise of that public spirit, which " seeketh not its own ; " but, in the overruling providence of God, secures, though perhaps undesign- edly, in many instances, the welfare of coming thousands. II. A new scene opens in the next period. It presents, indeed, not a species of inde- pendent sovereignty, with which, apparently, some had flattered themselves, but what is of higher moment in the scale of human enjoyment and progress safety, encouragment, and aid. All that Massachusetts had realized she was ready to share ; and perhaps there is hardly to be found in history an instance wherein political power was exercised in a more paternal manner ; nor, a few instances only excepted, its exercise met with more of grateful recog- nition and willing subjection. Often did it occur, say the faithful recorders of the time, that, while the people had the acknowledged right to elect into office in their several towns such of their fellow-citizens, or, rather, fellow-subjects, as they might prefer, they yet requested the court to nominate and appoint them a course of conduct which very few of the sturdy republicans of succeeding times would be disposed to adopt. In proof of the exercise of the disposition now alluded to, and such a proof as is peculiarly * Life of Gorges, in Amer. Biogr. vol. i. p. 381. 96 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. attractive, when the important and cherished seat of learning at Cambridge needed a substi- tute for its old and humble building of wood, contributions for reedifying, the structure with brick were liberally bestowed. " Portsmouth, which was now become the richest " of the New Hampshire towns, charged itself with " 60 per annum for seven years ; Dover gave 32, and Exeter 10 for the same laudable purpose." * At a subsequent period, we shall find this example of a wise liberality to the cause of good learning followed by the government of the province in a highly valuable donation to the library of Harvard College, notwithstand- ing its location in a rieighboring community. These instances it is delightful to record ; for they tended to prepare the way for that wider union of interests which was, in process of time, to be developed in all its vast and important bearings. Indeed, at the commencement of the period we are now reviewing, a measure fraught with consequences inappreciable, perhaps, by those who engaged in it, was adopted in the confederacy of colonies effected in 1643. New Hampshire shared in the benefits of this judicious and necessary arrangement, being included in Massachusetts. The other parties were Plymouth, Connecticut, and New Haven. And it cannot escape the notice of any who attentively observe " the leadings of divine Providence," that, in thjs manner, while the present perils of their great enterprise prompted these governments to counsels of fraternal union, they were preparing gradually the way for the final INDEPENDENCE or THEIR COUNTRY.! Probably, without a similar course, they could hardly have sustained the horrors of the Indian war of 1675, and triumphed over Philip and his widely-extended confederates. It deserves mention here, that, although the inhabitants of Massachusetts had formed for themselves what may be termed a " test act," and admitted none to " the freedom of their company," and thus to the bearing of office among them, but such as had been received into some one of the churches, a regulation made, as Hutchinson informs us, by the freemen themselves, in 1631, and " continuing in force until the dissolution of the government ; " that is, while they were under their original charter, yet, on the admission of the New Hamp- shire towns, no such order was extended to them ; and they elected their officers without the restriction. A similar course was held subsequently with regard to Maine. Thus the way was preparing for a wider toleration, the principles of which were in that age but little understood or felt. | It is not improbable, also, that the application of this measure to the New Hampshire towns was of influence in forming their temper to a remoteness from the strict Puritan features which characterized the Old Colony and the Bay State in their earliest times. And, indeed, it was not until 1671 that a Congregational church was gathered in Portsmouth, their capital ; there having previously been only an Episcopal church in the town, which was formed in 1638. III. The way had been gradually preparing for a change of government. The enemies of that system of rule which prevailed in Massachusetts had been, from the very first, busy in their complaints to the crown, and had been often on the point of succeeding, but were remarkably prevented. Thus, in 1635, an effort had been made to cause the surrender of their much-cherished charter. And at the restoration of the monarchy these were renewed, after a comparative quiet, on that subject at least, of near 20 years. But, in the course of a short period, complaints having been made by the heirs of Gorges and Mason, a commission was given by Charles II. tg Colonel Nichols, Sir Robert Carr, and two others, to investigate the state of the colonies, particularly in regard to the grievance complained of, apply all proper remedies in their power, and make report. This report, although it failed of effecting all that was intended against the government of Massachusetts, prepared the way for the mission of * Belknap, vol. i. p. 64, F. and M's ed. ; also Hutchinson, &c. f See this confederacy exhibited in an Address of the late Ex-President /. Q. Adams. Mass. Hist. Coll. III. vol. ix. J In 1665, Dr. J. Mather, in a private letter, charges on the commissioners of the New England colo- nies the declaration, " that they would have liberty given to all sorts and sects of men." See Hutch- inson, vol. i. p. 208. STATES AND TERRITORIES. NEW HAMPSHIRE. 97 Randolph, which resulted in his advice to separate New Hampshire from that government, and to erect it into a province by itself. This arrangement was at length effected ; and in 1680, at the beginning of the year, John Cutt, Esq., an aged and; worthy citizen of Portsmouth, was appointed, by royal authority, president. A council was assigned him, a portion of the members being specially named, with permission to fill up the prescribed number at their pleasure ; to which was added a House of Representatives, to be chosen by the people a form of government which, in itself considered, Belknap characterizes as being " of as simple a kind as the nature of a subor- dinate government and the liberty of the subject can admit."* The new president died, however, before the expiration of his year of office, and was greatly lamented, as a gentleman of high moral worth and unblemished reputation. He was succeeded by his deputy, Major Waldron, who had long been distinguished by his public spirit and many services, and was therefore greatly esteemed. The alteration of the form of government was not, however, allowed to pass off without another trait of genuine feeling, which does the parties great honor. With consent of his council and of the General Assembly, President Cutt communicated, as early as March 25, 1680, to the governor and council of Massachusetts, to be made known at their next session to the General Court of the province, a very grateful letter ; " first to acknowledge," says he, " your great care of us, and kindness towards us, while we d\velt under your shadow ; owning ourselves deeply obliged, that you were pleased, upon our earnest request and supplication, to take us under your government, and ruled us well, while we so remained ; so that we cannot give the least countenance to those reflections that have been cast upon you, as if you had dealt injuriously 'with us." They then profess as follows : " no dissatisfaction with your government, but merely our submission to divine Providence, to his majesty's commands, to whom we owe our allegiance, without any seeking of our own, or desires of change, was the only cause of our complying with that present separation from you that we are now under ; but should have heartily rejoiced, if it had seemed good to the Lord and his majesty to have settled us in the same capacity as formerly." They add, " We hold ourselves bound to sig- nify, that it is our most unfeigned desire, that such a mutual correspondence betwixt us may be settled, as may tend to the glory of God, the honor of his majesty, whose subjects we all are, and the promoting of the common interest, and defence against the common enemy, that thereby our hands may be strengthened, being of ourselves weak, and few in number ; and that, if there be opportunity to be any ways serviceable unto you, we may show how ready we are thankfully to embrace the same." They close with saying, " We subscribe, wishing the presence of God to be with you, and craving the benefit of your prayers and endeavors for a blessing upon the heads and hearts of us who are separated from our brethren." f A document like this is well worthy of transmission to posterity. But, after the year's ser- vice of Walter Barefoote, who was one of Randolph's friends and abetters, the next ad- ministration, that of Cranfield, was unpleasant in the extreme. His self-seeking spirit, his contempt for the inhabitants, whom he found to be not more than four thousand in number, his tyrannical exactions, and his persecution and oppression of the respected minister of Portsmouth, the Rev. Joshua Moody, whose name will ever be held in affectionate respect, alienated from him the minds of the people, and caused them to rejoice when, chagrined and disappointed, he left them for Barbadoes. We have not room, in this department of the present work, to enter into particulars of the history of so many changes as occurred in the administration of government, further than to say, that New Hampshire was again united with Massachusetts, under the presidency of Joseph Dudley, in 1686 ; also under that of Andros in 1687, and of Bradstreet in 1689. From 1692, however, the separate government obtained again, under Usher, Partridge, and Allen, for ten years ; when Dudley was once more appointed governor, having Massachusetts also c * Hist, of N. H. p. 89, F. and M.'s edition, f See the whole paper in Hutchinson, vol. i. 295, 296. 13 98 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. under his charge. The two governments were thus again united, and so continued from 1702 to 1741, sharing in each other's sympathies, and in weal or woe. In the last-named year, Benning Wentworth, a graduate of Harvard College, was appointed governor, and succeeded in that office by his nephew, John Wentworth, in 1767, whose term of service closed but with the revolution. IV. The revolution produced, of course, its own heroes, as every period of such excite- ment must. But there had been a long training of them, unknowingly, as throughout our country. New Hampshire furnished her full quota of these, several of them reared in the hardships of Indian warfare, or in the laborious occupations of husbandry ; and not a few were experienced in those scenes of conflict between Britain and France which ended in the reduction of Canada. A few years only after that event, the discussion of stirring questions between the colonies and the mother country called forth the best talents. The right of Par- liament to tax, without the privilege of representation vested in the subject, and thence without his consent, was boldly denied. The stamp act excited alarm, and was resisted. Feudal institutions were reviewed, in an essay by the elder Adams, in 1765, and the canon law inves- tigated ; and, in short, the doctrines of civil freedom began to engage the public mind long before the actual INDEPENDENCE of the country was seriously contemplated. The country, too, had gained strength and wealth. Of both these New Hampshire partook. Ship-building, from the facility of obtaining every kind of lumber, flourished on hor scanty seaboard. Vessels of war had been for many years constructed within the waters of Piscat- aqua, which form almost her only harbors from the sea ; and her merchants were known abroad, and their connections extensive and profitable at home. Besides this, the increase of population in the country towns became observable. They had been gradually settling, after the disputes with the heirs of Mason were in good degree adjusted, and more especially after the purchase made of their claim by a company of NCAV Hampshire gentlemen, in 1746, which had introduced an increase of agricultural products, by encouraging a more general acquisition of farms, the cultivation of which had been found the true source of wealth and general prosperity. In addition, a new interest was given to the great subject of EDUCATION. We have before alluded to the regard shown to Harvard College. At the destruction by fire of its library, in 1764, under the government of Benning Wentworth, a generous donation was made, in order to replace it* But, under the succeeding administration of his nephew, a magistrate dis- tinguished for learning, good judgment, and public spirit, and therefore deservedly popular, the foundation was effected of a university within the state itself. The application for public aid by the Rev. Dr. Wheelock, and his offer of locating his institution where the greatest encouragement might be had, elicited such returns abroad, and especially such grants of land from the General Assembly, as fixed Dartmouth College at Hanover, in the county of Grafton, by royal charter, 13th December, 1769. The rank of this institution is high among the col- leges of New England and the best literary establishments of the Union. To recount the catalogue of worthies, whose names impart a lustre to their native state. and give the history of their lives, pleasing although it would be, cannot within the limits of this introductory sketch be admitted. The memories of Stark and Sullivan, and of Pepperell at an earlier period, who should be reckoned, probably, to New Hampshire, though locally of Maine, of Dearborn, and other military men, will not be suffered to perish. Those of Me- shech Weare, the first president of the state, after the commencement of hostilities with Great Britain; and the governors, Langdon, Gilman, Smith, and Pluiner, not to mention * " The province of New Hampshire not having as yet any college of its own to divert its interest from Harvard College, hitherto the Alma Mater of her educated men as well as those of Massachusetts, the General Assembly of that province, by the recommendation of Governor Benning Wentworth, who had been applied to by the corporation on the subject, voted 300 sterling for the purpose of purchasing books for the library. A cata'ogue was sent to the Rev. Dr. East Apthorp, then in England ; and by his care books to the number of 743 volumes, enough to fill three quarters of an alcove, were purchased with that sum." See Peirce's Hist, of Harvard University, edited by the late Hon. J. Pickering, Esq. STATES AND TERRITORIES. NEW HAMPSHIRE. 99 others of merit who have honorably filled the chair of state ; of Mason, and of Webster, the former of whom has recently been lamented as one of the first, if not the first, of the lawyers of New England, and the latter happily living, as a glory of his birthplace, the able and successful expounder anet defender of the constitution, will pass down to posterity with still increasing esteem, and do honor to New Hampshire. They will excite the virtuous emulation of her aspiring youth, and tend to guide their steps to eminence. Nor should the religious interests of the state be overlooked. These have been superin- tended by a ministry consisting of, apparently, as sound and faithful men as can be found laboring together in any state of our Union, among an equal population. A recent review of their history has been taken ; and its well-informed author, addressing " the general associa- tion," a body which dates its origin in 1747, declares, " Of 686, who from the first have filled the office of pastors in our churches, but about 150 now survive. All settled previous to 1780 are starred on the register of their names. Of those settled between 1780 and 1800, we can find but eight among the living, and not one of them in the active duties of the ministry. But though dead, they yet speak. Some of them experienced great trials and hardships for Christ's sake, enduring perils in the wilderness and perils among savages. But they were strong in faith, constant in labors, enduring unto the end. Never, probably, has there existed," he adds, " through a period of more than two centuries, a succession of one class of ministers more united in sentiment, more harmonious in practice, more consistent in example, more free from ambition and envy, and the strife of controversy, more self-denying, more useful as citizens, and more respected in their several fields of labor, than the Congregational and Presbyterian ministers of New Hampshire. A few, indeed, though very few, have proved themselves un- worthy of their calling and office. Some have renounced their first faith, but the great body of them have stood firm amid changes, and were found faithful unto death." * The writer then notices the closing scenes of the lives of several of the pastors, as evi- dences of their sincerity and faithfulness ; and especially commemorates Moody of Portsmouth, McGregor of Londonderry, Dr. McClintock of Greenland, Hidden of Tamworth, Dr. Harris of Dunbarton, and Dr. Church of Pelham, among those who have given their dying testimonies to " the truth as it is in Jesus." Many other names are precious to the churches and to sur- viving friends ; and that such a ministry, still more and more enriched with divine grace, may be perpetuated through the coming generations, every Christian patriot must desire ; since it is only through the prevalence of the religion of the gospel that any community can truly prosper. For the Christian ministry is the institution of God for human welfare. And its usefulness is found not merely in reference to eternity, but the present life also. Says the commissioner of common schools, in his last Report to the legislature of New Hampshire, " The clergymen of the various towns that I have visited deserve especial notice for the lively interest they cherish in this movement, [to improve the schools.] for the valuable assistance they rendered me in my visits, and for the controlling influence which they exert on the minds of the people in favor of general intelligence and sound learning." f Although allusion has thus been made to the important subject of training the youth of the state, and to the promotion of " sound learning," it yet seems proper to insert in this place a general view of it, with which the compiler of this work has been very obligingly favored by the late Rev. Dr. Cogswell, president of the Theological Seminary at Gilmanton. It is inserted entire, under the head of " EDUCATION IN NEW HAMPSHIRE. The common school system of education," observes the doctor, " so generally prevalent in New England, was very early adopted by the inhabit- ants of New Hampshire. In this respect, the state was probably as observant of duty as Massachusetts and Connecticut. " The first law -enacted for the establishment of what are termed * town schools,' was passed in 1647, by the General Court of Massachusetts. The preamble and law are as follows : * It being one chiefe project of that old deluder, Sathan, to keep men from the knowledge of * Rev. Mr. Boston's Hist. Discourse, Aug. 22, 1848, p. 24. f See Report for 1848, p. 4. 100 ITNITED STATES GAZETTEER. Scriptures, as in former times, keeping them in an unknowne tongue, so in these latter times, by persuading them from the use of tongues, so that, at least, the true sence and meaning of the original might be clouded with false glosses, of saint-seeming deceivers, and that learning may not bee buried in the grave of our forefathers in church and commonwealth, the Lord assisting our endeavors : " * It is therefore ordered by this Courte and authority thereof. That every townshipp within this jurisdiction, after that the Lord hath increased them to the number of fifty hows-holders, shall then forthwith appoint one within theire towne, to teach all such children as shall resorte to him, to write and read ; whose wages shall be paid either by the parents or masters of such children, or by the inhabitants in generall, by way of supplye, as the major parte of those who order the prudentials of the towne shall appointe ; provided that those who send theire children bee not oppressed by paying much more than they can have them taught for in other townes.' " This law extended to the inhabitants of New Hampshire, as the union between this state and Massachusetts took place in 1641. The ultimate object to be obtained by our Puritan ancestors in these schools was, that their children might be enabled to read and understand for themselves. They were zealous for the maintenance of the Protestant principle of private judgment in matters of religious faith and practice. " The first law passed by New Hampshire, after it became a province, was enacted in 1693, amid the terrors and distresses of the sanguinary war with the Indians and the French, and shows how regardful of education the people at that time were. The law runs thus : it is 1 enacted and ordained, that for the building and repairing of meeting-houses, ministers' houses, school-houses, and allowing a salary to a schoolmaster in each town within this prov- ince, the selectmen in the respective towns shall raise money by an equal rate and assessment upon the inhabitants ; and every town within this province (Dover only excepted during the war) shall, from and after the publication hereof, provide a schoolmaster for the supply of the town, on penalty of ten pounds ; and for neglect thereof, to be paid, one half to their majes- ties, and the other half to the poor of the town.' " In 1719, a law was passed which ordained that every town having fifty householders, or upwards, shall be constantly provided with a schoolmaster to teach children and youth to read and write. " In 1783, the voice of New Hampshire on the subject of education was expressed in lan- guage worthy of a free and sovereign state, and contained in the constitution of government then voluntarily adopted. It is as follows : ' Knowledge and learning, generally diffused through a community, being essential to the preservation of a free government, and spreading the opportunities and advantages of education through the various parts of the country being highly conducive to promote this end, it shall be the duty of the legislators and magistrates, in all future periods of this government, to cherish the interests of literature and the sciences, and all seminaries and public schools, to encourage private and public institutions, rewards and immunities for the promotion of sciences and natural history.' " Since the adoption of the constitution, the acts of the government in favor of common schools have been liberal. They are now by law established throughout the state, and every child and youth may enjoy the benefits of education proffered by them. For their support, by a law of the state, about $100,000 is annually raised by a tax upon the people.* The literary fund, amounting to $64,000, formed by a tax of one half per cent, on the capital of the banks, has been distributed to the different towns. The proceeds of this fund, and also an annual income of about $10,000, derived from a tax on banks, are appropriated to aid in support of schools, besides what is raised by the several districts themselves. " There are, according to the last census of the United States, 2127 common schools, and 83,632 scholars attending them, being 1 in every 3 T V(y of the whole population of the state, and being a greater number, in proportion to the inhabitants, than is furnished from * Whole amount raised in 1848, #147,744-82. See Report, cited above, p. 43 STATES AND TERRITORIES. NEW HAMPSHIRE. 101 any other state in the Union, with but one exception. There are only 942 individuals in the state, over 20 years of age, who can neither read nor write, being only 1 to 307 of the pop- ulation, and being a less number than in any other state, one only excepted. " The number of academies and high schools in the state is about 70, being 1 to every 4000 inhabitants. The number of students attending them is 5799, being on an average more than 80 to an institution, and 1 to about every 50 of the inhabitants. This intermediate class of institutions between common schools and colleges is generally in a flourishing condi- tion. Most of them are private corporations for public purposes, and need more funds for their support, that they may accomplish with greater energy the work devolving upon them. " Dartmouth College, named after the Earl of Dartmouth, an early benefactor, is one of the n.ost flourishing in the United States, and is situated in the south-west part of Hanover, about half a mile east of Connecticut River, on a beautiful and extensive plain, where there is a handsome village. It was founded by the Rev. Eleazar Wheelock, D. D., and chartered by royal grant in 1769. The funds, which are respectable, were obtained by donations from individuals, and by grants from the legislatures of New Hampshire and Vermont. The build- ings are good, and six in number all of them of brick except one, and most of them bearing names of benefactors." Boundaries. This state is bounded north by Eastern Canada, east by Maine, south-east by the Atlantic and the State of Massachusetts, south by Massachusetts, and west and north- west by Vermont. Situated between 42 40' and 45 16' north latitude, and 70 35' and 72 27' west longitude. Its length is 168, and its greatest breadth about 90 miles, and it com- prises an area of about 7987 square miles. First Settlers. The first discovery of New Hampshire was in 1614, and the first settle- ments made by Europeans were at Dover and Portsmouth, in 1623 ; only three years after the landing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth. Government. The executive power is vested in a governor and five councillors, chosen annually by the people. The legislature consists of the Senate, comprising 12 members, chosen in 12 districts, and the House of Representatives, chosen annually in the month of March, every town having 150 ratable polls being entitled to send one, and an additional representative for every 300 additional polls. The legislature assembles annually at Concord, on the first Wednesday of June. All male citizens, of 21 years and upwards, except paupers and persons excused from taxes, have a right to vote for state officers a residence of at least three months within the town being required to entitle the person to vote. Judiciary. The Superior Court of Judicature consists of a chief justice and two associate justices, who hold one term annually in each of the ten counties of the state, for the hearing and determining of questions of law, and petitions for divorce. This court is also vested with chancery powers. The judges of the Superior Court of Judicature are, ex officio, judges^of the Court of Common Pleas. This court, before whom all actions for the recovery of debts and the en- forcement of contracts, and all jury trials, are brought, consists of one of the justices of the Superior Court, or one of the justices of the Circuit Court of Common Pleas and of two county judges, who are generally appointed from among the yeomanry, whose principal duty it is to attend to the ordinary business of the county, its roads, expenses, &c. Terms are held semi- annually, in each of the counties. Most of the religious denominations, which are found in the country at large, appear in New Hampshire, as might be anticipated from the freedom of religious inquiry and profession. In numbers, the Baptist denomination ranks next to the Congregationalists and Presbyterians. But the Episcopal branch of the church of Christ was early founded in the colony, and was greatly encouraged by several of the royal governors. The Methodists are numerous, and there are communities of Friends, or Quakers. But it is believed that the many important interests of society, in which good citizens may unite without infringing on a good conscience, are tending to soften the asperities of religious controversy, and to bring the community more 102 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. and more into a state of mutual forbearance, if not of mutual esteem. Thus Bible societies, and societies for the promotion of temperance, the associations which spring out of the great cause of education, and those which relate to agriculture, mechanic arts, general science, arid mutual improvement in knowledge, especially by lectures and the founding and use of social libraries, all tend to occupy healthily the powers of the mind, and produce or promote that condition of civilization which becomes a free, vigorous, moral, and Christian state. That such advances are really making is evident to the observer. They have, indeed, been gradual, but actual. The early colonists were often almost disheartened at the prospect before them, and complained of the difficulty of procuring a subsistence. It is well remarked by Dr. Belknap, that they too much neglected the cultivation of the soil, whose productiveness they had not properly tested, while their chief attention was given to the fishery, the lumber trade, and the procuring of furs. Many temptations, too, were thrown in their way, as occurred to other settlers in New England, by invitations to settle elsewhere. Lord Saye and Sele urged the colonists to people Barbadoes, where he possessed an interest. Cromwell, at a subsequent period, invited the tried and faithful Puritans to settle in Ireland, where the province of Ulster had long been devastated, and stood in need of inhabitants ; or to enter on his new conquest of Jamaica, and become West India planters. Few, comparatively, however, were prevailed on to go ; and those who staid became more and more accustomed to the country, and attached to it. And now, what is the result ? A healthy, active, intelligent, and industrious population is found, even among the mountain fastnesses of " the Granite State," not unaptly characterized as the Switzerland of America. They subdue the soil, and it yields its treasures ; and if not in so great abundance of cereal grains, at least in valuable pasture the grazing interest being very considerable throughout the state. Yet the improvements of modern agriculture are noticed and adopted. In islands of the beautiful Winnipiseogee a favorable location, it must be confessed 136 bushels of Indian corn have been raised on the acre ! * One would suppose that the fertility of the western prairie could offer little temptation to the farmer who might produce such a crop, and remain among his own paternal fields ; especially when the contrast is made between the healthiness of a northern climate, in a high, hilly region, pure water flowing plentifully, all facilities for happily training a family ; and a country where, indeed, labor is comparatively light, land cheap, and winters lose much of then- rigor and length ; but fever and ague sap the constitution, and send back the adventurer a lean, sallow invalid for life, or lay him prematurely in the grave. Of recent years, the legislature has, in its wisdom, encouraged the investigation of the mineral treasures of New Hampshire. The employment of Dr. C. T. Jackson for this pur- pose has resulted in the discovery that this state is richer in this respect than any of its sisters. We do not say that it has the gold of California, as, happily for its inhabitants, it has not, nor that of North Carolina or Georgia ; but the variety of its minerals is great, and the de- posits of several'of the most useful, if not most costly ores, are not infrequent. Grant that it abounds in granite and in ice. It has also a hardy and sagacious population, which can make that ice and granite articles of profitable commerce. The increase of manufacturing establishments, in which scientific skill is tasked to mould the raw material into useful fabrics and forms, renders the possession of water power a great desideratum. In few spaces of equal extent, it is believed, does there exist a greater water power than in this state. And human ingenuity will not be backward in turning this encouraging circumstance to profit. Statistics of several establishments will be found in the following work, under the heads of their respective localities. Of all the features of the state, the White Mountains must be regarded as not only the most prominent, but the most interesting. Forming the highest land in North America east of the Rocky Mountains and the Andes, they have become a favorite resort of the tourist, who is in search either of health or pleasure. Dr. Belknap supposed that the highest peak * See Dr. Jackson's Agricultural Report. STATES AND TERRITORIES. NEW HAMPSHIRE. 103 would be found to be, when accurately measured, which in his day it had not been, over 10,000 feet high. But since that period it has been satisfactorily ascertained that it falls short of 7000. The ascent, perilous as it has been accounted, is often effected, and generally repays the task. But the remembrance of those dreadful avalanches, which, in one melancholy in- stance at least,* produced havoc, and ruin, and loss of life, will long impress the imagination seriously, and give solemnity to the wild solitudes of the mountains. The engineer will think and calculate otherwise. And his is, in fact, the prevailing view now taken of heights of land and bodies of water. The latter, which abound in the region of the White Mountains, not only give animation to a landscape, and irrigate for the agriculturist or cattle-breeder the lands in their vicinage, but, directed by the hand of Science, and duly restrained and managed, facilitate human labor, and lay a foundation for national wealth. For if, as one of this profession f argued, " rivers were made to feed navigable canals," the eleva- tions where are found the sources of the Androscoggin, Saco, Merrimac, Connecticut, and many other streams, on whose banks and by whose waterfalls villages of manufacturers must rise, will not be contemplated by the practical improver without deep interest. It is a great happiness, as well as honor, for the state, that its history has been so ably and respectably written, and at so early a period in the development of its resources. Dr. Belknap was eminently calculated to accomplish the work he undertook. It required research and patient labor ; but he could labor and persevere, though under great embarrassment and diffi- culty, unknown, probably, by his successors in the ministry, but requiring in his day all forti- tude and faith. His education had providentially fitted him for his task. Brought up under the eye of the New England historian, the Rev. Mr. Prince, whose spirit of accurate and industrious inquiry is celebrated, he had the advantage of consulting his collections, and im- bibed a taste for the employment. Prince followed Mather, and Mather drew from Hubbard, and he from Winthrop and Winslow. Belknap completes the chain to our own times ; and his history is quoted with that respect and confidence which honor his name, still further honored by the state in being attached to a lately constituted county. Deficiencies in his work are, indeed, noticed, particularly in articles of natural history and natural philosophy. But, with the progress in science that has since been made, and the facilities for observation which have since been secured, the supply of these deficiencies will be easy. Nor can it be so difficult as it was originally to secure the evanescent tradition of events. The late and lamented John Farmer, Esq., and his living associate,! as well as other members of the Historical Society, have done much to perpetuate New Hampshire history, whether of the state or of smaller communities, or of individual men. The state is restricted on the sea-coast, and has but one avenue to the ocean. The Piscat- aqua presents for future improvement advantages that a perspicacious and thriving people will not be long in ascertaining and employing. The railroad from Portsmouth to Concord, opening an easy access to the great north and west, will give to the beautiful harbor of Ports- mouth a foreign and domestic commerce hitherto unknown. Though restricted on the sea-coast, and in this view not to be compared with her sister states of New England, the State of New Hampshire is yet second among them in extent of territory. That it may be filled with a prosperous, happy, exemplary population, who shall enjoy and improve the rich privileges of Christian freemen, which, in the good providence of God, now form their favored lot, and transmit them unimpaired to the latest posterity, is the writer's fervent wish and prayer. * The destruction of Mr. Willey's abode and family, t Brinley, the Duke of Bridgewater's surveyor. J /. B. Moore, now librarian of the N. Y. Hist. Soc. \ 104 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. NEW JERSEY is one of the central states on the Atlantic coast of the country comprising the original thirteen United States. The earliest settlement was made in the county of Bergen, between the years 1620 and 1630, by some Dutch people from New York. They were joined by parties of Danes and Norwegians, who, in 1638, were followed by a body of Swqdes and Fins, which formed a colony on the Delaware River, arid purchased of the aborigines the lands on both sides of that stream, as far as the river was navigable. In 1664, the territory between the Connecticut and Delaware Rivers was granted to the Duke of York, brother to Charles II. The charter included New Jersey, of which the Dutch were forthwith dispossessed by the English ; and it was then conveyed to Lord Berkeley and Sir George Carteret. These latter proprietors drew up a form of government, and sent over Philip Car- teret as governor, who fixed upon Elizabethtown as his seat of government, in 1665. Sundry political changes ensued, and in 1676 the province was divided, the western part annexed to New York, and the eastern remaining as a separate colony, under the direct dominion of the crown. Six years afterwards, the latter section was assigned to William Penn and his associates. Twenty years subsequently, it was surrendered to Queen Anne, and incorporated with New York, under the government of which both provinces continued until 1738, when they were again placed under the immediate jurisdiction of the British sovereign, and so re- mained until the royal authority was abrogated by the revolution of 1776. The republican constitution of the state is dated July 2d of that year. During the war with Great Britain, New Jersey suffered more than her proportion of the hardships, and rendered her full measure of the services, incident to that eventful struggle. Boundaries and Extent. New Jersey is bounded north by New York State, east by the Atlantic Ocean, south by Delaware Bay, and west by the State of Pennsylvania. It lies be- tween 38 58' and 41 21' north latitude, and extends from 73 58' to 75 29' west longitude. Its extreme length, from north to south, is about 160 miles, and its average breadth not far from 50 miles. Its area, by official report, is 8320 miles. Government. The government is vested in a governor, Council, and House of Assembly, all of whom are elected annually, the former by the legislative branches in joint ballot, the latter by the people. The Council consists of 18 members, the president of which is, ex ojficio, lieutenant governor, and the Assembly comprises 58 members. No persons are eligible for either of these offices without a previous residence of one year, and the possession of property valued at 1000 in the case of councillors, or at 500 in the case of assembly men. Voters must also have resided within the state one year, and possess property worth 50 " proclamation money." STATES AND TERRITORIES. NEW JERSEY. 105 Judiciary. The judicial tribunals consist of a Court of Errors and Appeals, a Court of Chancery, a Supreme Court, and Courts of Common Pleas. The Court of Errors comprises the chancellor, the justices of the Supreme Court, and six other judges appointed for six years by the executive, one of the latter vacating his seat in rotation each year. This court holds four stated terms every year. The chancellor and judges of the Supreme Court are appointed by the governor and council for seven years ; the Court of Chancery holds four regular terms per annum, and the Supreme Court the same, the judges of which also hold Circuit Courts quarterly in each county. Judges of the Common Pleas Courts, five in each county, are chosen for five years by the legislature, and hold courts four times a year. Education. The state holds an available school fund amounting to $377,413-01. There are some 1600 school districts in the state ; but the system of free school education, judging from the latest returns, does not seem to have met with that favor from the legislature, or that solicitude on the part of the people, which its great importance demands ; for it appears that, out of 119,000 children, between the ages of 5 and 16 years, only 70,000 receive instruction ; that the average length of time within the year, for which schools are kept, is but nine months, and that the average cost of tuition is $2*06 per quarter for each pupil. New Jersey, how- ever, has long sustained a large number of literary institutions of a respectable order. At Princeton, there are the College of New Jersey, an ancient and distinguished establishment, and the Presbyterian Theological Seminary, of like eminence. At New Brunswick is Rut- gers, formerly Queen's College, founded in 1770, with which also is connected the Theological Seminary of the Reformed Dutch church. There are likewise numerous academies, ^c., in all parts of the state. The Friends have several respectable schools under their partic- ular charge. Finances. The absolute debt of the state, on the 1st of January, 1850, was $67,595-82, the annual interest upon which amounted to $4075-84. The productive property of the state was valued at $262,397-53, and the unproductive at $764,670-60 ; the latter consisting of the " surplus fund " received from the United States, which has been loaned without interest to the respective counties. The revenues are derived mainly from transit duties on railroads and canals, dividends on stocks of ditto, taxes on railroad stock, interest on railroad bonds, special loans, &c. The aggregate receipts from these sources, for the year ending on the above-mentioned date, amounted to $125,690-82, and the public expenditures for the same period were $126,552-75. There are between 20 and 30 banks in the state, with an aggregate cap- ital of from three to four millions of dollars. Surface, Soil, fyc. The face of the country at the north is rather mountainous and broken, being crossed by portions of the Blue Ridge and other elevated ranges. From this point to the central part of the state the land is gradually depressed, and becomes undulating. At the south it is still lower and more level. The soil in the hilly region furnishes many excellent tracts for grazing ; in the centre it is quite fertile ; while towards the Atlantic coast it is sandy and naturally sterile. The latter district, however, by manual toil, has been made uncommonly productive, the proximity of two great markets having stimulated the industry and the agricul- tural skill of the inhabitants. Wheat and all the grains peculiar to the Middle States, potatoes, all descriptions of garden vegetables, and fruits of the finest sorts, as peaches, apples, pears, plums, cherries, strawberries, &c., are raised in great profusion, wherever due regard has been given to the improvement of the soil. Rivers. Several navigable streams intersect the state or flow along its borders, furnish- ing fine mill sites and abundance of water power for all needed manufacturing purposes. Besides the Hudson and the Delaware, which wash the eastern and western shores, the chief rivers are the Raritan, navigable for 15 miles, with important waterfalls beyond ; the Hacken- sack, of about the same navigable extent, though supplying water power for about 20 miles farther ; the Passaic, Salem, Cohanzey, and others, all more or less convertible to the purposes of commerce or manufactures. Internal Improvements. Among the most important works of internal improvement are the Morris Canal, the Delaware and Hudson Canal ; the Camden and Amboy, the Paterson and 14 106 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. Hudson, the New Jersey, the New Brunswick and Trenton, the Morris and Essex, and other railroads, with divers branches. These pass through various quarters of the state in almost every direction, and afford great facilities for internal and external commerce. Most of the trade of the state is carried on or benefited by means of these valuable public works. They afford convenient egress to the vast quantities of agricultural produce, cattle, domestic animals, poultry, manufactured articles, &c., which are annually exported from the state. Minerals. Valuable iron, zinc, and copper ores are found in the state, and have been extensively worked, the smelting establishments and numerous furnaces being well supplied with fuel from the great sandy tracts which are covered with forests of pine timber. Manufactures. The manufacturing branches principally pursued in New Jersey are those of iron, glass, cotton, and woollen. There are also large numbers of paper mills, tanneries and other manufactories of leather, potteries, hat, cap, and bonnet factories, distilleries, machine shops, flouring mills, ropewalks, &c. ; besides which, great quantities of home-made or family articles are annually produced. Indians. Few, if any, of the descendants of the aboriginal tribes are found within the limits of the state. Population. The character of the people has undoubtedly been essentially modified during the lapse of the several generations that have successively followed in the train of time, since the date of the earliest settlements. But few of the characteristics of the original emi- grants from the north of Europe are now discoverable. Most of the inhabitants probably are of English extraction. The last census (1850) shows a population of near 500,000, including about 22,000 free colored persons. Climate. New Jersey enjoys a mild and healthful climate. Towards the sea-coast, the air is pure, and the temperature varies less between the seasons than in the high regions at the north, the thermometer seldom indicating a greater heat in summer than 87, or less than 13 in winter. In the mountainous districts, the weather in winter is quite severe. Religion. The Presbyterians are the most numerous ; the Methodists, Baptists, Dutch Reformed, Episcopalians, and Quakers nearly equally divide the remainder of the population. There are, however, some Roman Catholics, Congregationalists, Universalists, &c. NEW MEXICO (TERRITORY.) The region now comprehended within the limits estab- lished by Congress as the United States Territory of New Mexico formerly constituted a portion or portions of a Mexican province. During the war between the United States and Mexico, (1846,) General Kearney took peaceable possession of Santa Fe, the capital of the prov- ince, and established a temporary government therein. In the early part of the following year, a revolt against the American authorities took place, and six of the civil officers, including the governor, were barbarously murdered. Several battles were subsequently fought in different parts of New Mexico, in all which the combined forces of the Mexicans and Indians were repulsed. By the treaty of peace in 1848, the Mexican title was cancelled, and the immense country, of which this territory forms a part, became an adjunct of the United States. By the act of Congress, passed September 9, 1850, for defining the northern and western boundaries of Texas, &c., a territorial government for New Mexico was also established. Boundaries and Extent. New Mexico is bounded north by the Territory of Utah, and by a part of the scarcely explored wilderness called Nebraska ; east by the State of Texas ; south by a portion of Texas, and principally by the boundary line between the United States and the Mexican possessions ; and west by the State of California. Its eastern quarter ex- tends from the 32d to the 38th degree of north latitude, and the residue of the territory from STATES AND TERRITORIES. NEW MEXICO. 107 the 33d to the 37th. It lies between 103 and 116 west longitude, reaching from east to west about 600 miles, is from 240 to 360 miles in width, and comprises an area of some 200,000 square miles. Government. By the* act establishing the territory, the governor is appointed by the President of the United States for four years, who must reside in the territory, and is also superintendent of Indian affairs. A secretary of state is appointed in like manner for the same term, who is acting governor in the absence of that magistrate. The legislature is com- posed of a Council, to consist of 13 members, chosen for two years, and a House of Represen- tatives, consisting of 26, who serve one year. The legislature is elected by a plurality of the popular votes. Its session cannot exceed 40 days. All laws must be submitted to Congress for approval. The right of suffrage is held by all free citizens of the United States, resident for a prescribed period within the territory. By the same act it was required that a census should be forthwith taken, in order to apportion the members of the legislature, according to the number of inhabitants. This was done in the spring of 1851, and the result showed a population of 56,984, exclusive of Indians. The ratio of representation has thereupon been fixed, for members of the Council at 4384, and for those of the House at half that number. The Legislative Assembly convened for the first time on the 2d day of June, 1851. Education. After the lands shall be surveyed under the direction of the general govern- ment, for the purpose of bringing them into market, two sections in eacli township are to be set off for the support of schools. Judicially. The judicial power of the territory is vested in a Supreme Court, District Courts, Probate Courts, and justices of the peace. The former is composed of a chief justice and two associates, either two of whom form a quorum. An annual term of the court is held at the seat of government. The judges hold office four years. Three judicial districts are established, in each of which a District Court is held by the justices of the Supreme Court. The above tribunals possess chancery as well as common law jurisdiction. Appeals are allowed to the Supreme from the District Courts, but in such cases there is to be no trial by jury. Appeals are also allowed from the final decisions of the Supreme Court of the territory to that of the United States, in cases involving a sum in controversy of $1000 and upwards, and also in cases affecting the title to slaves. Finances. The sources from which to meet the public expenditures, excepting those pro- vided by Congress, will ordinarily consist of direct taxes, and the income arising from land sales, as is the case generally in all the new states and territories. Surface, Soil, fyc. The face of the country presents much variety. Stupendous ranges of mountains portions of the great vertebra? of the continent traverse the eastern half of the territory from north to south, pierced occasionally by rugged and precipitous gaps, and some- times by tracts of prairie, affording passage to travellers. This region includes the former provincial limits of New Mexico, and the oldest and most populous settlements. The country on the west of these elevations exhibits immense plains or plateaus, over which are scattered numerous isolated mountains and broken ridges of volcanic origin, the peaks of some of which rise to a great height. The valleys and slopes between the eminences in the eastern section consist generally of very productive land ; and the river bottoms, especially near the southern boundary, comprise broad tracts of exceedingly rich soil, adapted to the culture of sugar, and of most of the products of that latitude. The portion of country lying on the Gila and Colorado Rivers, where these advantages are very apparent, will doubtless attract the early attention of settlers. The interior of the western half of the territory, so far as it has yet been topographically examined, is, for the most part, an arid and sterile desert, with the ex- ception of some fertile spots and stunted forests along the margin of streams, or among the nooks of the high lands. The soil in this region seems to be either sandy or to consist of a light, porous clay, bearing a species of coarse grass, said to be good winter fodder for cattle. The country does not abound in timber, but in some locations is overgrown for miles with almost impenetrable thickets of mezquite and other thorny shrubbery. Corn, wheat, grapes, peaches, and other grains and fruits, are cultivated in a small way near the villages, and by some tribes of Indians in different parts of the territory ; but it is only in the immediate 108 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. vicinity of streams that the land may be considered productive, or even inhabitable by civilized beings. Rivers. The Rio Grande takes its rise many miles above the northern boundary of New Mexico, flows entirely across the territory, and, after passing for several hundreds of miles between Texas and the Mexican states on the west, discharges itself into the Gulf of Mexico. It is navigable during a great part of its course. The Gila and Colorado are also among the principal streams ; the latter a fine river, flowing from the north in a westerly direction, until it strikes the eastern boundary of California, from which point it proceeds southerly between that state and New Mexico, passes beyond their southern limits, and finally empties into the Gulf of California, affording steamboat navigation for 350 miles. There are numerous other streams, some of them very extensive, and most of them tributaries to the rivers already mentioned. The country, as a whole, is poorly watered, either for purposes of internal com- munication, for the propulsion of machinery, or for appeasing the thirst of men and animals. Internal Improvements. There are no public works of the character understood by this caption now existing in this territory, neither is it known that any are in contemplation, beyond that of constructing a road through it, from east to west, to facilitate the progress of emigrants into California. Surveys have been made with this view by military men under the authority of the United States, but the question of the construction of such a work remains undetermined ; and it is further problematical whether, if a highway be decided on, it will ever assume the costly and important shape of a railroad. The enervating effect of the climate upon the inhab- itants will probably tend to prevent for a long time any attempt at internal improvement by means of works of art. Minerals. Evidences of volcanic action abound upon the surface of all parts of the territory ; and gold, silver, copper, and iron deposits exist in many places. Mines of the three former metals have been worked in past years to some extent, but discontinued within a short period. All the ordinary geological features peculiar to such a region are discoverable here. The character and composition, and the combinations of the masses which form the mountainous ridges, and other enormous protuberances scattered confusedly over the face of the country, refer to the fires below for the origin of their present appearance, at least, if not for the cause of the general barrenness of the earth around them. Manufactures. Nothing can yet be said of the manufacturing genius or industry of those who now constitute the people of New Mexico. Their ancestors, and those of the savages in the same region, were noted for little more in this line than the fabrication of a rude kind of pottery, and some few other sorts of household articles. The territory, or state, as it may be hereafter, will probably never become either a manufacturing or agricultural country for any important commercial purposes. Indians. The vast wilderness, of which the western half of the territory consists, is peopled by numerous tribes of Indians. Some of these are mild, peaceably disposed, honest, indus- trious, and hospitable, living in villages and permanent settlements, and obtaining their subsistence mainly by hunting, fishing, and tillage. Others wander about in hordes, living by plunder, and constantly engaged in thievish depredations and bloody warfare. With one of the most formidable tribes of the latter, the Apaches, Governor Calhoun, of this territory, has recently concluded a treaty, whereby they are restricted to such limits as may be prescribed by the United States government, and to form permanent settlements, the United States stipu- lating to furnish all necessary facilities for tilling the soil. Population. The census taken by the civil authorities of the territory showed a population of 56,984; but that of the United States, taken at nearly the same period, (1850-1,) gives a population of 61,547, exclusive of Indians, of whom, perhaps, it is impossible to obtain a correct enumeration. Climate. In those mountainous parts where water is easily accessible, the residents may be said to enjoy a good share of health throughout the year ; but in other localities, at certain seasons, the heat is extremely oppressive, and the climate decidedly insalubrious. The winters are not uncomfortably cold for any great length of time ; but, even at the extreme south snow is by no means uncommon, although the streams rarely freeze. During the march of STATES AND TERRITORIES. NEW YORK. 109 Lieutenant Colonel Cooke from Santa Fe to San Diego, in the latter part of October, 1846, snow fell, and his party suffered for about two weeks with cold, though then at the southerly border of the territory. In the vicinity of Santa Fe, about latitude 36 north, on the 31st of December, 1846, the snow was five inches deep. Religion. The Roman Catholic, having formerly been the established religion throughout all Mexico, still maintains its ascendency in this territory. Other denominations, however, are now tolerated, under the laws of the United States. Curiosities. Among these, the most remarkable, perhaps, are the ruins of singularly con- structed religious temples, and other large edifices, which are occasionally met with upon the sites of ancient Indian or Mexican villages, the inhabitants of which have long since passed beyond the reach of historical research, and left scarcely any traces even of legendary remem- brance. The village of Pecos, not far from Santa Fe, furnishes one illustration among many of these extraordinary remains. In various quarters are found vestiges of mounds and other monuments, of strange forms and divers dimensions, the uses of which baffle inquiry or con- jecture. Among the extraordinary natural phenomena may be enumerated the high volcanic peaks in the mountainous district near the centre of the territory, and the character of some of the sandstone rocks composing the walls of many chasms and bluffs in the same region. From one of these, which had broken so as to leave a perpendicular face 180 feet in height, Lieu- tenant Abert, in the course of his topographical exploration in 1846, gathered a number of shark's teeth, shells, and bones of fish. The ruins of the singular structures left by the Aztecs, an ancient race, of common origin with the New Mexicans, once inhabiting several large dis- tricts in this territory, are also among the striking curiosities of the country. In their wander- ings from a point near the centre of the present northern boundary, they left at different spots many ponderous memorials of their laborious skill, in the shape of immense edifices, designed to serve, it is supposed, as fortified habitations. Near the River Gila, in November, 1846, Captain Johnson, U. S. A., visited one of these ruins, called the " Casa de Montezuma," pre- sumed to be many centuries old, an account of which is given in his journal, communicated to the war department by General Kearney, in 1847. NEW YORK is the northernmost of what were considered the Middle States at the estab- lishment of the American republic. The first approach to a settlement within its present limits, by civilized Europeans, was made in 1610, by a party under the auspices of a company of Dutch merchants, who constructed a small fort on an island in the Hudson River, not far distant from the site now occupied by the city of Albany. Another fort was erected by the Dutch, in 1612, on York Island, the spot on which the city of New York is built. The whole HO UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. territory was then denominated New Amsterdam. In 1614, a body of English from Virginia look possession of it, which they soon after relinquished ; and the Dutch continued to hold it thenceforward for about 50 years. During this period, their relations with the settlers in neighboring territories were not uniformly amicable, especially with those in New England. In 1629 it was. erected into a regular colony, with a chief magistrate appointed by the Dutch govern- ment. He and his successors maintained jurisdiction until the year 1664, when the colony was captured by an English force, under authority of a royal patent, conveying it to the Duke of York, from whom its present name is derived. In 1673, the chief settlement was retaken by the Dutch, but restored in the course of the following year; from which time it remained a dependency of Great Britain for upwards of a century, until, through the results of the American revolution, it became an independent member of the federal Union. The first republican constitution was formed in 1777 : this continued in force until 1822, when it was remodelled. In 1846 it was again revised ; and, in the shape then given it, still remains the supreme law of the state. Boundaries and Extent. The state is bounded north by the British province of Canada; east by the States of Vermont, Massachusetts, and Connecticut ; south-east by the Atlantic Ocean ; south by the States of New Jersey and Pennsylvania ; west and south-west by Lakes Erie and Ontario, and by the River St. Lawrence. It extends from 40 30' north latitude to 45, and lies between 71 56' and 79 56' west longitude. Its extreme length from east to west, measuring from the Atlantic shore of Long Island, is 408 miles ; exclusive of that island, 340; and its breadth from north to south is 310 miles. Its area is estimated at 46,000 square miles. Government. By the constitution adopted as amended in October, 1846, a plurality of the popular vote elects the governor and lieutenant governor, who are chosen for two years. The people also choose in like manner, and for the same term of service, a secretary of state, treasurer, comptroller, attorney general, state engineer, and surveyor. Three canal commis- sioners and three inspectors of prisons are also elected by the people, to serve for three years each, one to retire every year, upon the principle of rotation. The legislature comprises a Senate and House of Assembly. There are 32 senatorial districts, each entitled to one senator, who serves, two years. The House of Assembly consists of 128 members, apportioned among the several counties according to population, and elected annually. Every white male citizen, 21 years of age, a resident for one year next preceding an election, ten days a citizen of the state, four months a resident of the county, and thirty days of the district, is entitled to the right of suffrage, without other qualification. Colored persons, to be entitled to that right, must have resided three years within the state, and have owned and paid taxes on a freehold worth $250 for one year next preceding an election. Judiciary. All judicial officers, except justices of the peace, are appointed by the exec- utive, and hold office during good behavior, or until 60 years of age. The judicial power is vested, 1. In a Court for the Trial of Impeachments, which is composed of the members of the Senate, or a majority of them, with their president at the head of the court, or, in his absence, the chief judge of the Court of Appeals, together with a major part of the judges of the latter court. This tribunal is a court of record, and its officers and clerk are those of the Senate. A party impeached cannot be convicted without the concurrence of two thirds of the members present ; nor punished by this court farther than by sentence of removal from or disqualification for office, though still liable to indictment. 2. The Court of Appeals, which consists of eight judges, four of whom are elected by the people, (one every second year,) and hold office eight years ; and the other four are selected each year from those justices of the Supreme Court whose terms are soonest to expire. Six judges constitute a quorum ; and the court holds four terms in each year. There must be one term in each judicial district every two years. 3. The Supreme and Circuit Courts, composed of justices elected by the people, four in each of the eight judicial districts into which the state is divided, one jus- tice in each to retire from office every two years. One general term of the Supreme Court must be held annually in every county containing 40,000 inhabitants ; and in other counties, one in two years. Two special terms each year are held in every county ; also two Circuit STATES AND TERRITORIES. NEW YORK. Ill Courts : of the latter, the city and county of New York has four. The Supreme Court has general jurisdiction in law and equity, and power to review judgments of the County Courts. At the general and special terms are heard all equity cases ; and the Circuit Courts are held exclusively for the trial ofc issues of fact 4. County or Surrogates' Courts, with the ordinary jurisdiction of Probate Courts ; and extending also to actions of debt, &c., involving not more than $2000, to actions for damages not above $500, for trespass or personal injury, and to replevin suits wherein not more than $1000 are claimed. They have likewise equity jurisdic- tion for the foreclosure of mortgages ; for the sale of the real estate of infants ; for the partition of lands ; for the admeasurement of dower ; for the custody of lunatics and inebri- ates ; and for the satisfaction of judgments where upwards of $75 are due on an unsatisfied execution. 5. Criminal Courts ; viz., Courts of Oyer and Terminer, and the Court of Ses- sions. The former, which are held in each county, except that of New York, at the same time and place at which the Circuit Courts are held, consist each of a justice of the Supreme Court, the county judge, and the two justices of the peace who are members of the Court of Sessions. In the city and county of New York these tribunals are composed of a justice of the Supreme Court and any two of the following magistrates : judges of the Court of Common Pleas for that county, mayor, recorder, and aldermen. Courts of Sessions are held by the county judge, and the two justices of the peace chosen as members of said courts. Besides the foregoing, there are in the city and county of New York a Superior Court and a Court of Common Pleas, each having three judges. Education. This important subject commands a full share of public solicitude in this state. Colleges and other literary and scientific institutions, of a high order, are established and well sustained in various quarters. Some of these are supported in whole or in part by different religious associations. The oldest, Columbia, formerly King's College, founded nearly a century since, is chiefly under the direction of the Episcopalians, who also maintain another college, and an eminent theological institute. The Baptists, Presbyterians, Lutherans, and Associate Reformed church have also their respective theological seminaries. A very large number of academies and high schools, generally sustained by individual subscriptions, are to be found in every part of the state. The common school system is honorably cherished by the bounty of the legislature ; and consequently the blessings of free instruction are diffused among children of all classes, through thousands of grammar and primary schools, under positive requisitions of law. For purposes of general education, the most liberal funds have been provided, amounting to $1,900,000 annually, of which $800,000 are raised by a state tax. The school fund produces $300,000. The deaf and dumb, and the blind, likewise participate amply in these appropriations. There are in the state, probably, upwards of 50,000 persons, of adult age, who can neither read nor write ; most of whom, without doubt, are of foreign extraction. Finances. The aggregate debt of the state, at the beginning of 1851, was $23,463,838. About two thirds of this liability arises from the canal debt, and the residue from debts contracted on account of railroads, the general fund, &c. It is estimated that, by the operation of the canal and other sinking funds, the public debt can be liquidated in the course of some 18 years from the above date. The annual revenues are derived from state taxes, auction and salt duties, canal fund, &c., which, in general, largely exceed the amount of expenditures for the support of government and of state institutions, for interest on the state debt, &c. Surface, Soil, 8fc. The state exhibits much variety of surface. The eastern part is crossed by two chains of lofty hills, rising to an elevation of 1200 to 1700 feet. One of these ridges, entering from New Jersey on the south-west, strikes the Hudson River at West Point, is there divided by the stream, and resumes its prominence on the opposite shore, showing almost perpendicular walls on either side, as though cut in sunder by some sudden convulsion. These remarkable heights are known as the " Highlands." Their bases comprehend a breadth of some 15 to 20 miles. From the eastern margin of the river they take a northerly course, in detached masses, dividing the waters of the Hudson from those of the Connecticut, and 112 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. finally mingling with the mountain ridges which bend to the north-east and spread towards the coast of Labrador. A second range enters the state from the north-western side of New Jersey, and passes northward, forming the Shawangunk Mountains. A third, from the northerly part of Pennsylvania, proceeds in the same direction through a great portion of the state, with varied elevations, sometimes rising to a height of 3800 feet, and are known as the Catskill Mountains. The Adirondack Mountains, in the north-east part of the state, are still loftier, one of the peaks reaching to an altitude of 6460 feet. In the eastern quarter, as well as the southern, the surface is hilly, and occasionally much broken, though abounding in excellent grazing lands ; but the western section is generally level, and the soil admirably adapted to the growth of grain. Indeed, the soil throughout is of good quality ; and in some parts ex- tremely rich and productive. Wheat, corn, rye, oats, buckwheat, barley, &c., together with potatoes, and every description of garden vegetables, are raised in profusion. Fruits of all kinds known to the climate, as apples, pears, peaches, plums, &c., are cultivated with great success. The forests yield excellent timber, in great variety and abundance. Rivers, fyc. A number of noble streams pass through the state, or along its borders, in different directions ; the chief of which are the Hudson, 324 miles in length, and navigable to Troy, 151 miles from its mouth ; the Mohawk, which falls into the Hudson, near Troy, and is 135 miles long ; the Genesee, which, after flowing 125 miles, occasionally over immense falls, affording prodigious water power, discharges itself into Lake Ontario, into which also flows Black River, a stream of 120 miles in length ; the Saranac, falling into Lake Champlain, after a course of 65 miles ; the Ausable, 75 miles in length, entering the same lake ; the Oswegatchie, 100 miles long, emptying into the St. Lawrence ; the Oswego, reaching between Oneida Lake and Lake Ontario, 40 miles ; the St. Lawrence, forming a part of the north-western boundary ; the Delaware, after a course of 50 to 60 miles, crossing the south-western border ; the Susque- hanna, flowing through a considerable portion of the southern margin ; the Alleghany, coming from Pennsylvania, and returning thither, after a sweep of 45 miles in Cattaraugus county ; and the Niagara, with its far-famed magnificent cataract. Numerous tributaries, of various extent, are connected with all these principal rivers. Portions of the great inland seas, Lakes Erie, Ontario, and Champlain, lie within the limits of the state. Numerous others are wholly imbosomed therein, most of which may be considered as arms of Lake Ontario. Several of these minor sheets of water are of considerable magnitude, and many of them are celebrated for their romantic beauty. The facilities for commercial and manufacturing purposes, which are supplied by these various bodies of water, are of incalculable value to the people of New York. They form one of the bases of that grand series of internal improvements, of which the enlightened patriots of that state, in years not long past, were the memorable pioneers. Internal Improvements. To New York belongs the honor of having given the earliest and strongest impulse, on the American continent, to a system of public works, on a great scale, designed for the promotion, unitedly, of" the important interests of agriculture, commerce, and manufactures. The first of these noble enterprises was the Erie Canal, which, at its inception, was denounced, by a portion of the people, as an extravagantly bold and visionary undertaking. It was commenced in 1817, and finished in 1825, at a cost of upwards of $7,000,000. It unites the waters of Lake Erie with those of the Hudson River, extending from Buffalo to Albany, a distance of 363 miles. Operations for enlarging it in breadth were not long since commenced, and, after having progressed considerably, were suspended, but will, in all proba- bility, be shortly resumed. Some six or seven other important works of this kind are also completed ; several more are in course of construction ; and a further number have been pro- jected. Those already finished are the Champlain Canal, connected with the Erie at Water- ford, and proceeding 64 miles to Whitehall, on Lake Champlain ; the Oswego Canal, also united with the Erie, and extending from Syracuse, 38 miles, to OsAvego, on Lake Ontario ; the Cayuga and Seneca, from Geneva to Montezuma, 21 miles ; the Chemung, from the head of Seneca Lake to Elmira, 39 miles ; Crooked Lake, between Penn Yan and Dresden, 8 miles ; Chenango, another branch of the Erie, extending 97 miles from its junction at Utica, to Bing- hampton, on the Susquehanna, The aggregate cost of the six last-named canals is stated at nearly $5,000,000. STATES AND TERRITORIES. NEW YORK. 113 i Besides the foregoing, large portions of the following have been completed : the Genesee Valley Canal, to extend from Rochester, 108 miles, to Olean, on the Alleghany ; and the Black River, from the Erie at Rome, 35 miles, to the High Falls. The Delaware and Hudson Canal, from Rondout, Ulster county, 84 miles, to Delaware River, whence it extends 25 miles to Honesdale, Pa., where it connects with a railroad of 16 miles to the coal mines at Carbondale, is the work of a private corporation, though assisted by a state loan, and partly lying in Penn- sylvania. It was completed at a cost of $1,875,000. In addition to these artificial watercourses, New York has further provided for her own prosperity by the establishment of numerous extensive and costly railroads. A series of these commodious highways, with a large number of branches under divers names, and owned by various bodies of proprietors, extends from New York to Buffalo. A railroad from the latter place, via, Niagara Falls, extends to Lewiston, and is there connected with a steamboat line to Oswego. A branch of this road runs to Lockport. There are also railroads between Schenectady, Ballston Spa, and Troy. A railroad of 50 miles (24 of which are in Pennsylva- nia) extends from Steuben county to the Blossburg coal mines, Pa. The Hudson and Erie Railroad, from Newburg and Piermont, on the Hudson, to Dunkirk, on Lake Erie, is between 400 and 500 miles in length, and has numerous extensive branches. There are many others, either partially completed or in contemplation ; so that at some not very remote day the entire state will be intersected by these important public works. Minerals. The mountainous region at the north-east part of the state, south-west of Lake Champlain, is exceedingly rich in iron ore. This mineral is also abundant in several other localities, and is extensively wrought into pigs and various castings. In Clinton county, the ore is of extraordinarily fine quality, great quantities of which, in a manufactured state, are annually exported. Vast beds of lead ore are found in St. Lawrence county. At Ticon- deroga, and at some other spots, abundance of excellent plumbago, or black lead, is found, and forms a valuable article of commerce. Indications of copper have been discovered in a few places. Salt and gypsum are obtained plentifully in several of the central counties eastward of Lake Ontario ; and the former article is manufactured in such quantities as to supply a very extensive market ; the latter is quarried largely, and sent by canals and railways to dis- tant markets in all directions. Quarries of excellent marble are being worked in Westchester county and the region contiguous. Few indications of coal have yet been found. Limestone, sandstone, and granite are abundant in several parts of the state. Manufactures. New York is a large manufacturing as well as agricultural and commer- cial state. Countless establishments for the transformation of all her natural products into articles of trade are maintained every where. Millions of capital are invested in woollen and cotton factories ; in the manufacture of salt, iron, and lead ; in the fabrication of articles of leather, straw, glass, clay, marble, &c. ; in distilleries, breweries, machine shops, flouring mills, and other mechanical agencies for the conversion of raw material into shapes fitted for the use and comfort of man. Indians. The numerous aboriginal tribes by which the entire state was formerly overrun have left comparatively but few living representatives within the state. The causes which have contributed to their annihilation, or dispersion, are those which have ordinarily produced the same results in all other parts of the United States. The hostile have been subdued by superior force ; the friendly have been treated with liberality ; and all who remained at the close of the American revolution have either been provided with, or allowed to possess them- selves of, appropriate and comfortable homes elsewhere. Population. The population of New York, especially of the metropolis, and of the cities generally, exhibits more diversity of character, probably arising from their great variety of origin, than that of any other state of the Union, or, possibly, that of any other country on the earth. The ancient Dutch and English characteristics, so distinctly marked and preserved through many successive ages, are no longer discernible, except in sundry secluded local- ities, or within the circle of certain exclusive neighborhoods. The present generation is com- posed of new and multiform materials. People who can trace their ancestry to every nation, 15 114 . UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. and kindred, and tongue, on the face of the globe, are now among the moving masses of this most populous state in the western hemisphere. New York city, the commercial capital, in an especial manner exhibits an example of this aggregation of " all sorts and conditions of men." And the interior is also receiving daily its contributions of settlers or wanderers from every quarter of the old world. Among these, the most impoverished districts of Ireland pre- sent, perhaps, the largest number of representatives. Every other European country has furnished also a sufficient quota. Asia and Africa, even, are not without their delegates ; nor are the two Indies, nor the foreign provinces both north and south of the boundaries of the republic. The ease with which emigrants may attain to all the privileges of citizenship, the facilities afforded for trade of every description, and the rewards procurable by the exercise cf every species of active industry, are the chief causes and provocatives of this vast influx from abroad. Within the ten years ending with the census of 1850, the population of New York has increased from 2,428,921 to 3,097,394. Climate. There is, in this state, a considerable variety of climate. In the southern sec- tion, it is mild, but mutable, both in winter and summer. In the northern, the winters are more severe, but uniform, and the summers are pleasant. Westward of the mountainous ridges, the climate is more equable and salubrious than in like latitudes on the eastern side. At Albany, the temperature varies between the extremes of heat and cold generally more than 100 ; that is, from 15 below zero to 90 above. At Canandaigua, there is nearly the same difference, the mercury sinking lower in winter, and rising to a less height in summer. On Long Island, near the Atlantic Ocean, the thermometer indicates a difference between the two extremes of about 90 ; namely, from 4 below zero to 87 above. But, with the excep- tion of occasional epidemics, not imputable, however, in general, to local causes, the climate of New York may be considered as one of the most healthy hi the world. Religion. Every variety of religious doctrine prevalent in other parts of the United States has its disciples in this state. The different Christian denominations may be classed, accord- ing to numbers, as follows : Presbyterians, Baptists, Methodists, Dutch Reformed, Episcopa- lians, Associate Reformed, Roman Catholics, Lutherans', Universalists, and Unitarians. There are also sundry congregations of Jews, Quakers, Shakers, &c. Curiosities. Among several remarkable phenomena, in various departments of nature, existing within the State of New York, the cataract of Niagara stands most prominent. A detailed description of this world-renowned prodigy would require an amount of space incon- sistent with the general object of the present work. But the subjoined extract from an account of the Falls of Niagara, written by Father Hennepin, who visited them in 1678, and published in London twenty years thereafter, presents a picture, the fidelity of which, notwith- standing its antiquity, will be recognized by all who have viewed the wonderful original in more modern times. The accuracy of the statistical facts therein presented is, of course, not assured ; but the delineation is expressive of the impressions of almost every one who beholds this awfully grand object for the first time, and would undertake to describe it without actual admeasurement. " Betwixt the Lakes Ontario and Erie," says Father H., " there is a vast and prodigious cadence of water, which falls down after a surprising and astonishing manner, insomuch that the universe does not afford its parallel. 'Tis true, Italy and Swedeland boast of some such things ; but we may well say that they are but sorry patterns, when compared with this of which we speak. At the foot of this horrible precipice we meet with the River Niagara, which is not above a league broad, but is wonderfully deep in some places. It is so rapid above this descent, that it violently hurries down the wild beasts, while endeavoring to pass it to feed on the other side, they not being able to withstand the force of its current, which inevitably casts them headlong above 600 feet high. " This wonderful downfall is composed of two great streams of water, and two falls, with an isle sloping along the middle of it. The waters which fall from this horrible precipice do foam and boil after the most hideous manner imaginable, making an outrageous noise, more terrible than that of thunder ; for when the wind blows out of the south, their dismal roaring may be STATES AND TERRITORIES. NORTH CAROLINA. 115 heard more than 15 leagues off. The River Niagara, having thrown itself down this in- credible precipice, continues its impetuous course, for two leagues together, to the great rock above mentioned, with a*n 'inexpressible rapidity ; but, having passed that, its impetuosity relents, gliding along more gently, for other two leagues, till it arrives at the Lake Ontario. From the Great Fall unto this rock, which is to the west of the river, the two brinks of it are so prodigious high, that it would make one tremble to look steadily upon the water, rolling along with a rapidity not to be imagined. Were it not for this vast cataract, which interrupts navigation, they might sail with barks, or greater vessels, more than 450 leagues, crossing the Lake of Hurons, and reaching even to the farther end of Lake Illinois ; which two lakes, we may easily say, are little seas of fresh water." NORTH CAROLINA is one of the Southern States of the American republic, and one of the thirteen which originally adopted the federal constitution. It was included in the exten- sive region granted, in 1584, by Queen Elizabeth, to Sir Walter Raleigh, under the general name of Virginia. Its earliest permanent settlement was commenced about the year 1650, by a company of fugitives from religious persecution in the more northern part of Virginia, who estab- lished themselves at a spot near Albemarle Sound. In 1661, another body of English emigrants, from Massachusetts, settled on the shores of Cape Fear River. The colonists suffered many hardships and much trouble for want of a recognized independent representative at the court of the parent country. This they obtained in 1667 ; but, not far from this date, the province comprehending the country now forming both North and South Carolina had been granted to Lord Clarendon and others, who undertook to introduce a grotesque form of government, pre- pared for the grantees by the celebrated John Locke. Among the singular features embodied in this constitution were provisions for establishing an hereditary nobility, for vesting the legislative power in a " Parliament," and for the exercise of executive authority by a chief magistrate, to be styled the " Palatine." After trial of this system for a few years, its practical defects became palpable, and it was abandoned in 1693. The colony, however, made but slow progress, having to contend with numerous vexations, not the least of which was the sanguinary hostility of the neighboring savages, by whom, in 1712, a murderous and destruc- tive war was carried on, rendered sadly memorable by the horrible atrocities with which it was attended. In 1729, both the Carolinas were ceded to the king for the sum of 17,500, and by him formed into two distinct colonies, which have ever since remained thus separated, and which now constitute the States of North and South Carolina. 116 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. The people of this state, in the early stages of the American revolution, were distinguished for their patriotic devotion to the cause of national independence. They opposed the encroach- ments of the crown, in 1769, with success, and were among the. foremost of the colonists to declare themselves free from all foreign control. In May, 1775, a military convention was held in the county of Mecklenburg, which passed a series of resolutions, displaying the spirit, and even embodying some of the language, of the great Declaration of Independence issued to the world on the 4th of July of the next year. A state constitution was formed in 1776, which, with some amendments, still remains in force. Several severe battles were fought upon the ^aoil of North Carolina in the course of the revolutionary war. The state adopted the federal constitution November 27, 1789, by a majority in convention of 118. Boundaries and Extent. North Carolina is bounded north by the State of Virginia, east and south-east by the Atlantic Ocean, south by South Carolina and Georgia, and west by the State of Tennessee. It extends from latitude 33 50' to 36 3(X north, and lies between 75 4S 7 and 84 west longitude ; is 430 miles in length, and varies in breadth from 20 to 180 miles, and contains about 45,000 square miles. Government. The executive and legislative officers are elected by the people, once in two years. The governor cannot serve more than four out of six years. He is assisted by a council of seven members, appointed by the General Assembly. The Senate is limited to 50, and the House of Commons to 120 members. The required qualifications of voters for the latter, besides having arrived at the age of 21, are, a residence in the county one year prior to an election, and the payment of taxes : to be entitled to vote for senator, the possession of 50 acres of land is required in addition. The right of suffrage is denied to all persons of negro blood. Judiciary. The judges of the Supreme Courts of law and equity, judges of admiralty, and attorney general, are chosen by the General Assembly in joint ballot. The latter holds office four years, and the judges during good behavior. The Supreme Court holds three sessions per annum, two at Raleigh, and one at Morgantown, the latter for the western part of the state. The sessions continue until all the cases on the docket are either decided or deferred for good cause shown. It has jurisdiction in all cases of law and equity brought by appeal or by the parties. The superior courts of law, and the courts of equity, which have complete equity jurisdiction, hold one session semiannually in every county of the state. About ten counties compose a circuit, of which the state is divided into seven. These are visited alter- nately by the> judges, so as not to preside in the same circuit twice in succession. Education. The free school system in North Carolina has not yet attained a very near approximation to that of the New England, Middle, and some of the Western States. In 1840, there were but 632 common schools in the state, and these contained less than 15,000 scholars, while there were more than 56,000 adult white persons unable either to read or write. The census of 1850 shows no better result. There are two colleges, and about 150 minor literary seminaries : the oldest of the former was founded in 1791. Provision for the establishment and maintenance of asylums for the insane, and for the deaf and dumb, has recently been made by the legislature. Finances. The net amount of the state debt, arising from the loan of its credit to certain railroad companies, is somewhat short of $1,000,000. The receipts into the treasury, for some few years past, have very considerably exceeded the expenditures. Surface, Soil, &fc. Along the Atlantic coast of the state, through a space of from 50 to 75 miles in breadth, the land is low, level, and swampy, intersected by many streams, which, from the nature of the surface, are neither rapid nor clear. Westwardly, beyond this tract, for a distance of some 40 miles, the land is more hilly and broken, and the soil sandy. Farther on, above the falls of the rivers, the country becomes elevated, and, in some places, mountainous. The highest mountain peak in the United States, east of the Rocky Mountains, is said to be Black Mountain, in Yancey county, which rises to a height of 6476 feet. There are other prominences, reaching to nearly as great an elevation. The soil in the district bordering on the sea-coast is generally poor, producing naturally no other timber than the pitch pine, from STATES AND TERRITORIES. NORTH CAROLINA. 117 which are procured large quantities of tar, pitch, and turpentine, constituting the chief articles of export from the state. The contiguous and more elevated region is somewhat more produc- tive, though the soil is thjin and sandy. The swampy spots are well adapted to the culture of rice. In the uplands, and beyond the mountain ranges, the land is exceedingly fertile. Indian corn grows well in all parts of the state, and cotton is successfully cultivated in many places. The low country, especially on the river borders, produces spontaneously plums, grapes, straw- berries, and other fine fruits ; it is also well adapted to the growth of rice, the sugar-cane, &c. The table lands at the west yield a fine natural growth of walnut, oak, lime, cherry, and other timber. The pitch pine, of which the low lands produce such large quantities, is generally of a prodigious size, far exceeding the dimensions of this description of timber found in the more northern states. The celebrated Dismal Swamp, 30 miles in length by 10 in width, lies in the northern part of this state, and reaches into Virginia. This tract is covered with a thick growth of pine, cypress, juniper, and oak-trees. There are within the state upwards of two million acres of swampy land, which may be reclaimed and made to produce abundant crops of rice, corn, cotton, and tobacco. Rivers. The Chowan and Roanoke, taking their rise in Virginia, flow through a portion of the state into Albemarle Sound. Cape Fear River is the longest which runs entirely within the state, being 280 miles in length, and is navigable, for vessels drawing 11 feet of water, to Wilmington, 40 miles from the sea. The Yadkin is also another considerable stream. They are all, however, subject to obstructions by sand bars at their mouths, owing to their sluggish course through a long distance of low and level country. Internal Improvements. There are several railroads and canals in this state, most of which are connected with those of Virginia. One of the railroads extends from Wilmington, 161 miles, to Weldon, on the River Roanoke ; another reaches from Raleigh, 85 miles, to Gaston, on the same river. The Dismal Swamp Canal, which commences in Virginia, is extended into North Carolina. A canal of five miles passes round the falls of the Roanoke. Minerals. The state contains gold, iron, and other valuable minerals ; but the public atten- tion is chiefly directed to the former. The region which is most prolific in gold occupies both sides of the Blue Ridge, in the western part of the state. The mines have been extensively wrought ; and, for some years, thousands of persons have been engaged, with varied success, in the business. The ore is found occasionally in veins, sometimes in small lumps, but more frequently in grains or dust. The amount annually obtained has been estimated at some $5,000,000. Only a comparatively small part of this, however, finds its way to the United States mint, or is retained in this country, a considerable portion being transmitted to Europe. Manufactures. Coarse fabrics of cotton and of wool are manufactured to some extent, principally for home use. There are numerous furnaces, forges, and smelting houses, for the conversion of the native mineral ores, iron, lead, and gold, into marketable shape. The manufacture of flour is carried on somewhat largely ; and among the remaining commodities manufactured in the state are hats and bonnets, hardware and cutlery, soap and candles, fur- niture and carriages, leather and saddlery, distilled and fermented liquors, &,c. Indians. No distinct tribes, and but few scattered families, of the Indian race remain within the limits of North Carolina. As in most of the early settled states, the aboriginal pro- prietors of the soil have gradually given place to the advancing influences of civilization, and either become extinct, or sought out new hunting-grounds in remote and still unsubdued regions. At the last census, the inhabitants of Indian blood numbered only 710. Population. During the 40 years ending in 1830, the population of this state increased very steadily, though showing at each decennial census some differences in the ratio of aug- mentation. Between the above date and 1840, it remained comparatively stationary; but between the latter year and 1850, had increased from 753,419 to 868,903, about one third of whom are slaves. Climate. In some parts of the state, especially in the elevated country at the west, the climate is delightful, and quite healthy. In the low lands, towards the sea- coast, however, it is mostly otherwise, excepting in the winter season. The low and marshy surface engenders 118 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. unwholesome vapors in the summer and autumn, and, consequently, fevers, agues, and other diseases incident to such localities, frequently prevail. Religion. The most numerous religious denominations are the Methodists and Baptists These generally reside in the low country. At the west, there are many Presbyterians The Episcopalians and Lutherans have a number of congregations in various parts of the state ; and there are also several bodies of Roman Catholics, Moravians, and Quakers. OHIO. This state has heretofore been classed among the North-west States of the Ameri- can Union ; but the vast accumulation of territory lying still farther west and north has left Ohio more properly among the Middle States, on the Atlantic side of the continent : indeed, her relative position, considered in regard to the present north-western possessions of the United States, is actually that of one of the Eastern States of this republic. Marietta, the oldest town in the state, was settled, in 1788, by the " New England Ohio Company." The next permanent settlement was at Columbia, in the following year. In 1791, a company of French emigrants founded the town of Gallipolis. Large bodies of New England people, in 1796, settled several towns on Lake Erie. Before the above settlements were undertaken, several of the neighboring states, which, by charter or otherwise, were proprietors of various tracts of unappropriated western lands lying within this territory, had, from time to time, relinquished then* claims ; and numerous Indian titles were also extinguished by treaty. A territorial gov- ernment was formed in 1799, in which year the legislature convened for the first time, at Cincinnati, and elected General William H. Harrison as delegate to Congress. A state con- stitution was formed in 1802, by virtue of which, and under authority of Congress, Ohio became an independent member of the federal Union. Boundaries and Extent. Bounded north by the State of Michigan and Lake Erie ; east by the States of Pennsylvania and Virginia, being separated from the latter by the Ohio River ; south by said river, which divides it from Kentucky ; and west by the State of Indiana. The Ohio River washes the border of the state, through its numerous meanderings, for a distance of over 430 miles. The state contains 40,000 square miles, and measures 200 miles from north to south, by 220 miles from east to west. It lies between 38 30' and 42 north latitude, and between 80 3& and 84 42' west longitude. Government. The constitution provides for the election of a governor biennially ; but he cannot be elected for more than three terms in succession. Members of the Senate, 36 in number, are elected for two years, one half chosen annually. The House of Representatives STATES AND TERRITORIES. OHIO. 119 is composed of 72 members, elected for one year. All these elections are by the people. The state secretary, treasurer, and auditor are chosen by the legislature, in joint ballot, for three years. The sessions of the General Assembly commence annually on the first Monday in December, at Colpmbui, the capital of the state. White males, 21 years of age, residents for one year in the state, and tax-payers, are entitled to the right of suffrage. The constitu- tion has been recently revised and modified ; but its new features do not seem to be essential improvements in principle upon its former provisions.* Judiciary. The judges of the Supreme Court, of the Common Pleas Courts, and of the city courts, are appointed, by concurrent vote of the two houses of the legislature, for seven years. The oldest Supreme Court judge in commission officiates as chief justice. There are four of these judges, two of whom hold a court in each county once a year. The Common Pleas Courts are held in some counties three times in each year, in others only twice, by a president judge and three associates. There are Superior Courts established in Cincinnati and in Cleve- land ; also a commercial court in the former city. Education. On the admission of this state into the Union, it was stipulated, for certain considerations, that one thirty-sixth part of all the territory should be set apart for the main- tenance of common schools. This liberal reservation makes ample provision for securing to coming generations the advantages of early instruction ; and, thus far, the compact, on the part of the state, lias been faithfully carried out Good schools are diffused all over the land ; and all needful attention and aid are given by the people to their support and improve- ment. There are many thousands of public grammar and primary schools in the state, some hundreds of academies or similar seminaries, and about twenty universities, colleges, and other institutions of a high order. The amount of the school fund owned by the state is above $1,700,000 ; and nearly $300,000 is annually apportioned to the several counties for school purposes. The number of persons over 20 years of age, who can neither read nor write, is about 35,000. Finances. The state revenues are chiefly derived from taxes of various descriptions, viz., on real and personal property, professions, pedlers, foreign insurance agencies, auctioneers, brokers, banks, joint stock companies, &c, also from land sales, canal tolls, dividends on state property, interest on surplus revenue and other investments, &c. The expenditures include appropriations for state government purposes, interest on foreign debt, common schools, repairs on public works, &c. The total amount of the state debt, at the close of the fiscal year of 1849, including nearly $17,000,000 foreign debt, was somewhat over $19,000,000. The difference between the receipts and disbursements for the same year showed a balance in the treasury of $554,000. Upwards of $3,000,000 worth of stock in various public works is owned by the state, which yields liberal dividends. The gross income of these works, in 1849, was over $740,000. The total value of taxable property was about $430,000,000, and the revenue from taxes on real and personal estates amounted to $1,260,000. Surface, Soil, fyc. Near the borders of Lake Erie, and for some distance in the interior of the northern part of the state, the surface is generally level, and occasionally somewhat marshy. The section of country in the vicinity of the Ohio River, in the eastern and south- eastern quarters, is elevated and broken, although there are no lofty'mountains in the state. But the entire region is a table land, reaching to a height of 600 to 1000 feet above the ocean level. The most level and fertile lands are situated in the interior, through which flows the River Scioto. Vast prairies lie near the head waters of that river, of the Muskingum, and * Among the amendments introduced are the following : The House of Representatives to consist of 100 members both branches to be chosen for two years; the legislature to hold its sessions once in two years ; the lieutenant governor to be acting president of the Senate, with only a casting vote; on the passage of every bill, the yeas and nays to be required, and a majority of all the members elected, of each house, to be necessary to the passage of any law; all judicial officers to be elected by the people the judges of the Supreme and Common Pleas Courts for five years; no state debts to be contracted to an amount of over $750,000, except in certain emergencies, nor the state credit to be loaned, nor the state, nor any county, city, or town to hold stock in corporations. 120 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. the two Miami Rivers, upon which there is no growth of timber, but which yield abundance of coarse grass. The forests, in other parts, produce oaks, walnut, hickory, beech, birch, maple, poplar, sycamore, papaw, cherry, buckeye, and whitewood, in all their varieties. Pines are uncommon, and the whitewood is generally substituted. The staple agricultural product of the state is wheat, of which enormous quantities are annually exported. Rye, oats, buck- wheat, Indian corn, and other grains, are raised in great profusion ; and nearly every species of garden vegetable is cultivated successfully. It is estimated that nine tenths of the land is adapted to purposes of agriculture, and that three fourths of it is extraordinarily fertile. Fruits of all descriptions known in the same latitude grow luxuriantly in all parts of the state. Rivers. Besides the noble Ohio, which washes the south and south-east borders of the state, there are its numerous tributaries, some of which are streams of considerable magni- tude, and extensively navigable. The Muskingum, which enters the Ohio at Marietta, affords navigation for boats through an extent of 100 miles. The Scioto, navigable for 130 miles, discharges itself into the Ohio at Portsmouth. The Great Miami, a rapid stream, after a course of 100 miles, joins the Ohio in the south-west corner of the state. The Little Miami, 70 miles in length, falls into the Ohio near Cincinnati. These rivers have many branches and forks, extending in various directions. A number of large streams flow northwardly into Lake Erie ; as the Maumee, Huron, Sandusky, Cuyahoga, Vermilion, Ashtabula, Grand, and Black Rivers. These also have many branches. Internal Improvements. Many important public works have been undertaken and accom- plished in this state. The Ohio Canal, 307 miles in length, extends from Cleveland, on the shore of Lake Erie, to Portsmouth, on the Ohio River ; and there are connected with it sundry branches, one of which reaches 50 miles. This work, commenced in 1825 and completed in 1832, cost $5,000,000. The Miami Canal, 178 miles long, extends from Cincinnati, and con- nects with the Wabash and Erie Canal at Defiance. This is also intersected by several branches. The Mahoning, a branch of the Ohio Canal, commences at Akron, and extends 88 miles, to Beaver River. Two continuous lines of railroad extend across the state, from north to south one from Cincinnati to Sandusky, the other from Cincinnati to Cleve- land, which is also connected by railroad with Pittsburg, Buffalo, Sandusky, and Toledo. There are numerous important lines in progress, extending east and west, and, indeed, in almost every direction. Minerals. Ohio does not present so great a variety of geological formations as are found in most other states. It is found that there are five distinct divisions of rocks, viz., blue lime- stone, the thickness of which is estimated at from 700 to 1000 feet ; black shale, 250 feet ; fine-grained sandstone, 350 feet ; conglomerate, 200 feet ; and coal series, 2000 feet. Indica- tions of all these several formations are found in some counties ; while in others those of only one or two of them are discoverable. The great coal region lies on the western bank of the River Ohio, and occupies not far from one fourth part of the whole state. The strata, as usual elsewhere, are interspersed with beds of iron ore ; and immense quantities of both these mate- rials are obtained from this quarter of the state. It is affirmed, in a Cleveland journal of March, 1851, that 1200 square miles in Ohio are underlaid with iron ; and that a tract ex- plored in 1838 was found adequate to furnish iron throughout an extent of 61 miles long by 60 wide, one square mile of which would yield 3,000,000 tons of pig iron so that this dis- trict would contain 1,000,000,000 tons. If 400,000 tons were taken from it annually, it would require 2500 years to remove the whole. Manufactures. The manufactures of this state are confined principally to articles the raw materials of which are of home growth, as wool, iron, leather, tobacco, flour, sugar, wax, lard, silk, potash, &c. All the usual collateral branches are also carried on to any required extent. Though not strictly connected with this item, it may be proper here to remark that millions of horses, mules, neat cattle, sheep, and swine are raised within the state, and that great numbers of living animals, as well as vast quantities of packed beef and pork, are annually sent to eastern markets. STATES AND TERRITORIES. OREGON. 121 Population. The people of Ohio ar*e remarkable for industry, enterprise, and public spirit They have " increased and multiplied," through accessions' from the older states, and from Europe, in an almost incredible ratio. The growth of the population has been without paral- lel, until, perhaps, the recent thronging towards the golden land in the farthest west. From the time when the first census was taken, a period of only 60 years, the number of inhabitants has been augmented from 3000 to nearly 2,000,000. Climate. In general, the climate throughout the state is highly favorable to human health. The summer season, though warm, is regular, with the occasional and somewhat rare excep- tion of a whirlwind or hurricane. The winters are not severely cold, nor subject to violent storms ; and the intermediate seasons are delightfully pleasant. It is true that in some of the marshy localities, giving rise to unwholesome vapors, the inhabitants are subject to those peculiar distempers always prevalent in such districts ; but even there, the range of disorders scarcely extends beyond fevers and agues. Curiosities. The remains of ancient Indian villages, mounds, and fortifications, discov- erable in many counties of the state, constitute the most remarkable subjects of curious interest. Particular descriptions of these vestiges may be found in Howe's Historical Col- lections of Ohio, a work of 600 pages, octavo, full of minute detail, published at Cincinnati, in 1850. In the Scioto valley, within a compass of 12 to 15 miles around the city of Chili- cothe, these extraordinary monuments are very numerous. A map, showing their respective positions, and an ample and very able account of a series of explorations made in that region, and elsewhere in the valley of the Mississippi, by Messrs. Squier and Davis of Ohio, between 1845 and 1847, may be found in the Transactions of the American Ethnological Society, vol. ii. OREGON (TERRITORY.) One of the recently-organized territories of the United States, embracing a vast region, extending from the Rocky Mountains on the east to the Pacific Ocean on the west. The Columbia River, its principal stream, was discovered in 1792, and named by Captain Gray, of ship Columbia, of Boston. Having penetrated the river for some distance, and established the fact of its existence, the title by discovery belonged to the United States. Under the authority of this government, Captains Lewis and Clarke, in 1804 and 1805, explored the country from the mouth of the Missouri to the mouth of the Columbia, where they passed the following winter, thus strengthening the claim of the United States to 16 122 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. the territory ; this exploration of the river being the first ever made by civilized adventurers. The first trading-house established in that region was erected on Lewis's River, a branch of the Columbia, in 1808, by the Missouri Fur Company ; and in 1811, the town of Astoria was founded by the Pacific Fur Company, under John Jacob Astor, of New York. This post was subsequently transferred to the British " Hudson's Bay Company," in consequence of its ex- posed situation during the war of 1812 ; but was afterwards restored, according to a stipula- tion in the treaty of Ghent. The British government, however, claimed certain portions of the northern part of the country ; and the question of boundary between the English and American possessions was for a long time a matter of controversy and negotiation. The sub- ject was at length, adjusted in 1847, and the 49th parallel of north latitude agreed upon as the line of demarcation. Congress, at about the same period, passed an act for the organization of a territorial government. The provisions of this act, so far as they relate to civil and judicial magistrates, to the Indians, the public lands, school reservations, &c., are similar to those established in the case of Minnesota Territory. (See Minnesota.) The act has since been amended in some particulars ; but its general features are not essentially altered. The Territory of Oregon is bounded north by the British possessions, from which it is divided at the parallel of 49 north latitude ; east by the main range of the Rocky Mountains, separating it from the waste region of Nebraska ; south by the Territory of Utah, and the State of California ; and west by the Pacific Ocean. It extends from latitude 42 north to the above parallel ; and, along its southern boundary, reaches from the 108th to the 124th degree of west longitude. Its area is estimated at upwards of 340,000 square miles. The surface presents three distinct sections or tracts of country, formed by separate and nearly parallel mountain ranges, two of which extend through the territory from north to south. The Cascade Mountains form the eastern limit of the first section, its western boundary being the ocean ; between these mountains and the next eastern range, called the Blue Moun- tains, lies the middle or second section ; and the third section, still farther eastward, reaches to the Rocky Mountains. These divisions diifer considerably in most of their physical characteristics in soil, climate, and natural products. The soil of the western or coast section, for the space of 100 to 150 miles east of the ocean, is not remarkably well adapted to the growth of grains, although many kinds of vegetable esculents' may be successfully cultivated. The land is well tim- bered with firs, spruce, pine, oaks, ash, cedar, poplar, maple, willow, and other forest-trees. Fruit-trees of the more hardy kinds, shrubbery, vines, &c., are found to thrive in all unexposed places. Towards the coast, some of the forest-trees attain a prodigious size and height. Near Astoria, eight miles from the sea, there is, or recently was, a fir-tree 46 feet in girth, and 300 feet high ; the trunk rising to a height of 153 feet before giving off a single branch. On the banks of the River Umpqua is a still more enormous specimen of the fir, being 57 feet in circumference, and 216 feet high below the branches. Pines reaching an altitude of 200 to 300 feet, and 20 to 40 feet round, are quite common. Good grazing tracts, and lands suited to the culture of many kinds of grain, and to the growth of pears, apples, and similar fruits, are found in the interior of this section, and at the base of the Cascade Mountains. The climate in this quarter is mild, though affected unfavorably at times by the raw sea fogs. It is not, however, unhealthy. The winters continue only from two to three months, com- mencing in December, though the rainy season lasts from November to March. Snow is not common, except upon the summits of the mountains. The middle section of the territory possesses a fair soil, consisting in part of a light, sandy loam, with many tracts of rich allu- vion in the valleys. It is peculiarly suited to the production of wheat, and is fruitful in almost every description of vegetation. The climate here, especially towards the south, is uniformly pleasant and salubrious. The third division, lying between the Blue and Rocky Mountains, is extremely rough, and generally barren, with a correspondingly uncongenial climate. It is traversed by gigantic and lofty mountain ridges in various directions, and so broken into rocky masses as to present few level or productive spots. It is covered, in the elevated parts, with snow, to a greater or less depth, during almost the entire year Rain STATES AND TERRITORIES. OKEGON. 123 seldom falls, nor are there any dews. The temperature often varies 40 between sunrise and noon. Much less is known of the two last-mentioned sections of country than of that which lies on the shore of the Pacific, the chief seat, at present, of all the commercial or trading operations of the country. * A number of extensive and capacious rivers flow through the territory, generally taking their rise in the mountains, and their course towards the Pacific. The chief among these is the Columbia, (sometimes called the Oregon,) which originates in the Rocky Mountains, and, after a devious track of many hundred miles, enters the Pacific Ocean from the east, in lati- tude 46 19' north. It is navigable for vessels of 12 feet draught for 120 miles, and for boats some 40 miles beyond, to the falls of the Cascade Mountains. Some travellers describe it as excelling most of the celebrated rivers of North America in beauty and magnificence. At its mouth lies a large and commodious estuary, the entrance to which, from the ocean, is somewhat intricate, but which affords shelter and good anchorage to vessels of the largest tonnage. The Columbia, in its long and tortuous course, receives the waters of numerous tributaries, flowing from the north, the east, and the south. Some of these are of great vol- ume and extent, and are also supplied by countless smaller branches and forks, stretching from every point, and presenting thousands of admirable mill sites. The other rivers which communicate directly with the Pacific are the Klamath and the Umpqua, both south of the Columbia, and extending inland only to the first or coast range of mountains. The principal rivers which empty into the Columbia, at various points, are the Canoe, Kootanie, Clark's, Spo- kan, Okanagan, Lewis, Kooskooske, Salmon, Umatilla, Q,uisnel's, John Day's, Chute, Cathla- tate's, Cowelitz, and Willamette. The last named is a very important stream, flowing through a spacious and fertile valley, and uniting with the Columbia at a point not many miles from the ocean. A number of settlements have been made upon the shores of the Columbia ; and on the banks of the Willamette are situated some of the largest villages and towns in the territory. Among the former are Fort Vancouver, Astoria, St. Helen's, and Milton, the first two of which are places of considerable trade ; and among the latter are Portland, already containing 15,000 inhabitants, several mills, churches, school-houses, &c., Milwaukie, Oregon city, Linn city, Champoeg, Salem, and many others, all possessing ample water privileges, surrounded by a fine agricultural country, and inhabited by an industrious, intelligent, moral, and thriving people. Farther in the interior are Hillsborough and Lafayette, the latter having a population of 800. A railroad from Milton, on the Columbia, to Bafayette, and thence into the interior, is in contemplation, at an estimated cost of $500,000. The mountains of Oregon frequently shoot up into conical peaks of astonishing height, pre- senting objects of grand and awful sublimity. The summits of many of these towering eminences, in the coast range, reach an elevation of from 12,000 to 14,000 feet above the level of the sea, ascending to twice the altitude of the region of perpetual snow, and bidding defiance to the approach of human footsteps. The Rocky Mountains, that immense natural barrier on the east, rise in many places to a still greater elevation. They form a continuous chain, often ascending to a height of 16,000 feet, but occasionally offering to the hardy trav- eller some convenient depression or gap, whereby he may pass from side to side. In the northern part of this range are the sources of Frazer's River, which finds its outlet at the north-west corner of the territory, after a course of 350 miles through the British possessions. The northern branch of the Columbia rises in these mountains, in latitude 50 north, and, after having traversed this elevated region some 220 miles, and having fallen 550 feet, is still found, at Fort Colville, half way across the territory, to be over 2000 feet above the ocean level. The lands around Puget's Sound, in the north-west part of Oregon, are among the most valuable in the territory for agricultural purposes, as well as for commercial pursuits. They consist of extensive prairies, which furnish food for great numbers of horses, cattle, swine, &c. Several flourishing settlements are established in this vicinity, and a large amount of trade is carried on. A considerable portion of the inhabitants are French and English emigrants from Canada. Much excellent timber is found in this region ; and mills have been erected upon 124 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. the adjacent streams, where there are many valuable waterfalls. The waters of this sound abound in shell and other fish. The tide regularly flows and ebbs from fifteen to eighteen feet, and the navigation is unobstructed and safe. Oregon is extremely rich in mineral resources, especially in the southern quarter, contiguous to the State of California. Large quantities of gold are dug in the fertile and pleasant valleys of the Klamath and the Umpqua. It is found even among the roots of the prairie grass. A lump valued at $230 was recently taken from a sod ; and those who are in search of the pre- cious metal in this section - of whom there are thousands seldom dig to a depth of more than three feet. Iron ore abounds on the Columbia ; and among the other minerals already found in different parts of the territory are copper, lead, platina, plumbago, sulphur, salt, and coal. The latter is very abundant on the Cowelitz River, and at Puget's Sound. There are many populous tribes of Indians within the territory, whose views and feelings are dissimilar in regard to the encroachments of the white man, and the advancement of civil- ization around them. The most powerful tribe are the Shoshonoes, or Snake Indians, who are said to number 15,000. The other principal tribes are the Flatheads, Flatbows, Pointed Hearts, and Pierced Noses. There are, besides, numerous smaller tribes. The governor of the territory, in his message to the legislature, in the spring of 1851, advocates the passage of a law by Congress for the protection of the Indian tribes. The population of this territory has multiplied prodigiously within a very few years. In 1840, the number was estimated at only 700 or 800. At this time, exclusive of Indians, it is probably not less than 25,000. The new towns are generally peopled by emigrants from the old states, who appear to be sufficiently aware of the value of orderly and liberal institutions. and have made due provision for their establishment and maintenance. They acknowledge the necessity of the immediate construction of roads and other improvements, at the public expense ; the establishment of a generous system of common education ; and the enactment of laws founded on those principles of justice and benevolence which distinguish the general codes of the several members of the federal Union. At a late session of the territorial legislature, the capital of the state was located at Salem, on the River Willamette. Acts also were passed for the establishment of a peniten- tiary at Portland, and a university at Marysville. The time cannot be very remote, when Oregon will be united, by a direct chain of inter- communication, with all the states and territories lying between the Rocky Mountains and the equally rocky strand of the Atlantic Ocean. Already, in fact, the work may be said to have advanced half way towards completion. The Great Northern Route, so called, embraces a cordon of railroads, to extend from Boston and New York to Dubuque, in Iowa ; a great portion of the line being finished and in travelling order, and the residue in a state of forward- ness. This line runs directly west upon, or very near, the parallel of 42 north latitude, scarcely varying a whole degree in its entire course, thus far, of over 1100 miles. From Boston and New York to Buffalo and Niagara Falls, this route has long been in active operation. Some few curves between Syracuse and Buffalo are to be overcome by a rectilinear section, which will be continued beyond the Falls, through the southern portion of Canada West, to Detroit, in Michigan. From the latter point, the Michigan Central Railroad now extends across that state, and around the southern margin of Lake Michigan, to Chicago ; thence the line is to proceed to Dubuque, traversing the northern boundary of Illinois, and crossing to the western shore o.f the Mississippi. Here, however, it cannot be stayed. The Iowa Central Railroad will take up the work, and carry it to the borders of Nebraska. At this last terminus, only, is any obstacle to be apprehended that cannot be quickly removed by the enterprise of the sur- rounding population. It becomes a national duty, then, to extend the work through that deso- late wilderness, until it shall touch the southern boundary of Oregon, in the same latitude of 42. California and Oregon will then consummate the enterprise; thus securing a direct and uninterrupted connection between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, across the body of the continent ; and interjoim'ng, by an imperishable belt of union, the inhabitants and the interests of the eastern and western extremes of this vast confederacy. STATES AND TERRITORIES. PENNSYLVANIA. 125 PENNSYLVANIA. This state is one of the most important members of the American Union. Its history is peculiar, and differs, in many respects, not only in regard to the original establish- ment of the colony, but in respect also to its early career, from that of almost every other state in the republic. The benevolent and tolerant character of its great founder impressed itself upon his associates and followers ; and, as a consequence, the wisest and most liberal institu- tions that could be devised in an age when the true principles of human government were but obscurely understood, were fixed upon in the outset, were perseveringly adhered to, and have ever since been cherished, with the happiest results. William Penn and his 2000 comrades, mostly of the persecuted Quaker denomination, left England for this country in a spirit of peaceful.philanthropy, and landed at Newcastle, on the Delaware, in 1682. He was fortunately received in a like amicable spirit by the natives, and forthwith proceeded without molestation in the execution of his preconceived plans. Passing up the river, he selected the spot upon which Philadelphia now stands, and there laid the foundation of that noble and unique city. Some forty years previous, a few settlements had been made, by a party of Swedes, along the western bank of the Delaware, within the present boundary of the state ; but the honor of planting the commonwealth itself belongs exclusively to the high-minded and distinguished man whose name it perpetuates. The whole tract now comprehended within its limits was granted to him, in 1681, by King Charles II., in compensation for services rendered to the crown by the father of the grantee, Sir William Penn, who had been an admiral in the English navy. After a residence of about two years among the colonists, he repaired to England, in 1684, where he appointed a provisional government, consisting of a president and five commis- sioners, to whom was intrusted the administration of the affairs of the new settlement during his absence. Having obtained full confirmation of his proprietary rights, he revisited the colony in 1699, and subsequently again returned to his native country, where he died in 1718, at the age of 74, bequeathing his property as an inheritance to his children. His descendants con- tinued in possession until the war of the revolution, when their interest was purchased by the commonwealth for the sum of $580,000. A state constitution was formed in 1776, which was superseded by another in 1790. This continued in force until 1838, when the existing constitution was established. The constitution of the United States was adopted in convention December 13, 1787. The city of Philadelphia, renowned as the spot whence issued the immortal Declaration of American Independence, was the seat of government of the United States, until it was transferred, in 1800, to the city of Washington. During the revolutionary war, Pennsylvania sustained heroically her part in that eventful drama. Several severe battles were fought upon her soil ; and the efforts and 126 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. sacrifices of her sons in the cause of civil liberty were not outdone by any of her patriotic confederates. Boundaries and Extent. Bounded by the State of New York and Lake Erie on the north ; by Delaware River, separating it from New Jersey, on the east ; by the States of Delaware, Maryland, and Virginia on the south ; and by the State of Ohio, with a part of Virginia, on the west. It lies between 39 42' and 42 15' north latitude, and reaches from 74 44' to 80 34' west longitude. Its dimensions are about 310 miles from east to west, by 160 miles in width, comprising an area of 46,000 square miles. Government. The present constitution provides for the election of governor triennially by the people ; not to hold office longer than six years in nine : the Senate, consisting of 33 members, one third chosen each year, are elected for three years : the House of Representa- tives contains 100 members, chosen annually. The judicial officers are appointed by the executive, subject to the approval of the Senate. The secretary of state is exclusively an executive appointment ; and the treasurer is chosen annually by the legislature in joint ballot. All white males 21 years of age, tax payers, residents for one year in the state, and for ten days in the district, are qualified voters. Judiciary. The judicial power is vested in a Supreme Court, four District Courts, and Courts of Common Pleas for 24 districts, into which the state is divided. The former is composed of a chief and four associate justices, who retain their offices for 15 years. They hold a court in bank once a year in four several districts. The District Courts are invested with the civil jurisdiction of the Common Pleas in their respective districts, in all cases ex- ceeding a certain amount involved : the judges of these courts are appointed for 10 years. Judges of the Courts of Common Pleas hold office for 5 years ; and any two of them may hold a Court of Quarter Sessions in any county. Sheriffs, coroners, clerks of courts, registers of wills, and recorders of deeds are elected by the people for 3 years, and justices of the peace for 5 years. Education. Pennsylvania has recently done much for the advancement of free education. There are in the state, independent of the city and county of Philadelphia, about 1500 school districts, and near 10,000 common schools, containing over 400,000 scholars. For the support of these institutions, some $700,000 to $800,000 are annually raised, partly by taxation in the several districts, and partly through state appropriations. There are also a large number of academies, and other literary or scientific institutions of a high grade, together with five or six theological seminaries maintained by various Christian denominations. The Girard Col- lege, near the city of Philadelphia, endowed by Stephen Girard with a fund of $2,000,000, and devoted to the support of destitute orphans, is perhaps the greatest charity of the kind in the country. There are two flourishing universities, the University of Pennsylvania, founded in 1755 at Philadelphia, and the Western University at Pittsburg, together with the following colleges, founded between the years 1783 and 1836: Dickinson, Jefferson, Washington, Alleghany, Pennsylvania, Lafayette, and Marshall, besides sundry medical colleges. Finances. The public debt of the state is not far from $40,000,000 ; and the value of its productive property is somewhat over $32,000,000. The annual income of the state, from all sources, is about $5,000,000, and the expenditures exceed $4,000,000. The interest on the public debt amounts to over $2,000,000 per annum. Surface, Soil, fy-c. The state presents a great variety of surface. Much of it is undulating and hilly, and, in some localities, mountainous. There are also numerous level tracts, but few of which, however, are of any considerable extent. South Mountain reaches across one corner of the state, in a south-westerly course, from the River Delaware, through an uneven country, to near the centre of the northern line of Maryland. Blue Mountain, extending in the same direction, from the northern extremity of the Delaware, is a continuous elevation of 700 to 1200 feet above the base, and terminates in a lofty peak, called Pilot's Knob, near the southern boundary of the state. A broken and hilly region lies northward of this range, bordered by the Susquehanna and Lehigh Rivers, and celebrated for its vast deposits of anthracite coal Several distinct mountains rise in this region, the summits of some of which consist of tracts STATES AND TERRITORIES. PENNSYLVANIA. 127 of unproductive table land. Other mountainous eminences lie around the valley of Wyoming, in the north-east part of the state ; and there are several ridges eastward of the Susquehanna River, bearing various names. The lofty chain called the Great Alleghany, or Appalachian Mountains, traverses the slate, almost uninterruptedly, from New York to Virginia. West- ward of, and parallel with, the Alleghanies are Laurel and Chestnut Mountains, and other high ridges, in the direct vicinity of which the surface is rough and broken ; but in the intermediate valleys, and farther towards the western part of the state, the soil is very rich and fertile. The land, indeed, throughout Pennsylvania, is generally of good quality. The grazing districts furnish large numbers of fine horses, neat cattle, and other domestic animals. Extensive tracts, lying along the margins of rivers, are peculiarly excellent, and under fine cultivation. Fruits of the best descriptions, and in great variety, are very abundant ; vast quantities of wheat and other grains are raised in all quarters ; and every species of vegetable product common to the Middle States is found in plenty and perfection within this flourishing agricul- tural commonwealth. Rivers. Among the principal streams are the Delaware, on the eastern border, which is navigable for ships of the line to Philadelphia, 6 miles above its junction with the Schuylkill, a distance of 120 miles from the ocean ; the Schuylkill, about 130 miles in length, and the Lehigh, about 75 miles, are both tributaries of the Delaware, the union of the two latter being formed at Easton, some 60 miles north of Philadelphia. The Susquehanna passes through the state, from its sources in New York to its mouth in Chesapeake Bay. Boats and rafts may pass down this stream, but the upward navigation is impeded by numerous rapids. The Juniata enters the Susquehanna near Harrisburg, after flowing 180 miles from its rise in the Alleghany Mountains. The Alleghany and Monongahela Rivers, the former after a course of 400, and the latter of 300 miles, meet at Pittsburg, and, by their confluence, form the Ohio, which runs but a short distance within the state. Internal Improvements. The position, extent, and resources of Pennsylvania have natu- rally stimulated her people to the establishment of all needful facilities for the promotion of her great agricultural, manufacturing, and commercial interests. Accordingly her revenues and credit, and the means of her wealthiest citizens, have been liberally devoted to the con- struction of various descriptions of public works, some of which are on a scale of great mag- nitude. Railroads and canals intersect the country in all directions, connecting the tide waters on the eastern boundary with those of the Ohio, and between all the principal points of trade throughout the state. These great enterprises are so many in number, and so variously dis- tributed, that, for a particular account of them, reference must be had to that portion of this work which treats of Railroads and Canals. Minerals. The grand mineral product of this state is anthracite coal, various qualities of which are mined in the different districts of the vast coal region, extending in length over 60 miles north-easterly from the north branch of the Susquehanna, with a breadth of 16 to 18 miles. This region is divided into three distinct coal fields,, which again are subdivided each into several mining districts. These great deposits are estimated to occupy an area of nearly 1000 square miles, and in many spots to be from 50 to 60 feet in depth. As it is calculated that each cubic yard will yield a ton of coal, some conception may be formed of the immen- sity of the aggregate. In 1820, less than 400 tons of coal were sent to market from this region ; but in 1842, the supply had increased to upwards of 1,112,000 tons, and the product has since been annually increasing. West of the Alleghanies lies a still more extensive tract, embracing an area of about 21,000, square miles, in which are embedded exhaustless quantities of bituminous coal. About 300,000 tons of this description of fuel are annually consumed in Pittsburg alone. The state also abounds in iron ore, salt, &c. Manufactures. The people of Pennsylvania are largely engaged in this department of home industry, the products of which are probably greater in quantity and value than those of any other state in the Union. The most important manufactures are cast and wrought iron in all varieties, cotton and woollen fabrics, paper, furniture, machinery, hats, articles of leather, porce- lain, glass, pottery, marble, flour, chandlery, distilled and fermented liquors, &c. Indians. The aboriginal tribes which once peopled the territory now constituting the 128 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. State of Pennsylvania have all disappeared, so far as regards any distinct social organization. Their hunting-grounds were yielded to the first white settlers with much less repugnance than has been manifested in almost every other part of the continent ; and their successors, by constantly pursuing towards the natives a humane and liberal policy, have enjoyed exemp- tion from those depredations and wars which have so sorely afflicted most of the new settle- ments in tliis country. Population. From the date of the first enumeration of the inhabitants, 150 years ago, when the colony contained but 20,000 souls, the population of Pennsylvania has continued to " increase and multiply," in steady and regular progression. At the present time its population numbers over 2,300,000. It is composed of the best possible materials for the formation and preservation of a free state. Industry, frugality, order, and patriotism are among the distinguish- ing traits of the people. Their enterprise and foresight have been remarkably exemplified in their magnificent system of public works, in their extensive agricultural and mechanical opera- tions, and in their flourishing literary institutions. The establishment and support of all these important interests have been marked by unsurpassed earnestness and munificence. Climate. Although the climate of Pennsylvania is subject to much fluctuation at all seasons, and the extremes of temperature are some 120 asunder, ranging from 20 below zero, in winter, to 98 above, in summer, still there are few or no states in the Union which are blessed with a purer atmosphere or a more healthful climate. The spring and autumn, in all parts of the state, are delightfully pleasant ; and notwithstanding the occasional violent changes, which, however, are not of long duration, the weather is for the most part equable and mild, according to the several seasons. The mean temperature, for the whole year, is between 44 and 52. July is usually the hottest month, and January the coldest. In the southern quarters, winter commences late in December, and continues until March ; but in the northern parts of the state, the cold season sets in a month earlier, and snow does not generally dis- appear until late in March. Frosts appear in some localities as early as September. Religion. The Friends or Quakers, successors of the first settlers, are probably more numerous in Pennsylvania than in any other state, having some 150 to 200 congregations. The Presbyterians, however, outnumber all the other denominations ; then follow in order the Methodists, Baptists, German Reformed, and Episcopalians, all of whom are numerous. There is also the usual variety of minor sects. RHODE ISLAND AND c PROVIDENCE PLANTATIONS. This, in territorial extent, is the smallest state in the Union. It lies between 42 and 43 north latitude, and 71 and 72 west longitude from London, and comprises an area of about 1306 square miles. It is bounded north and east by Massachusetts, south by the Atlantic Ocean, and west by Connecticut The STATES AND TERRITORIES. RHODE ISLAND. 129 natural features of the state are somewhat peculiar. About one tenth part of it is water, and of the residue, a very considerable portion is made up of islands. The interior, with the excep- tion of the intervales along the streams, is generally rough and hilly ,,better adapted to grazing than to the raising of grain. Most of the islands, together with that part adjoining salt water, are very fertile. The most considerable hills in the state are Mount Hope in Bristol, Pine in Exeter, Easchaheague and Hopkins in West Greenwich, Chopmist in Scituate, Neutaconkanet in Johnston, Woonsocket in Smithfield, and Diamond in Cumberland. The state abounds in streams of water, the banks of which are lined with manufacturing establishments of various kinds. Narragansett Bay extends from the sea, more than 30 miles into the state, afford- ing commodious and safe harbors along its whole length. The harbor of Newport, at its mouth, is not excelled by any in the United States. The harbors of Bristol and Wickford are easy of access at all seasons for vessels of heavy burden. That of Providence has less water than either of these, nor can it be safely entered by any vessel of any considerable size without a pilot. In 1839, Dr. Jackson, of Boston, under appointment of the legislature, made an agricultural and geological survey of the state. The mineral resources brought to light by this survey are not extensive or peculiarly valuable. Iron ore abounds in many localities. Anthracite coal is found in large quantities on the Island of Rhode Island, and also in Cumberland, and is fast coming into use. Limestone abounds in several towns, and is extensively and profitably wrought for use. The state is divided into 5 counties, Newport, Providence, Washington, Kent, and Bris- tol, which are subdivided into 31 townships. The settlement of the state by Europeans was commenced by Roger Williams and his associates at Providence, in the year 1636. The settlers came from Massachusetts, from which colony their leader had been banished for alleged political and religious heresies. In 1638, some of the religious followers of Mrs. Anne Hutchinson removed from Massachusetts to the Island of Rhode Island, in consequence of the proceedings had against them for their religious opinions. Samuel Gorton and his company commenced a third settlement at War- wick, in 1642. Neither of these companies had any charter from the English government They were voluntary associations. Each company purchased its location of the Narragan- sett Indians inhabiting there. Neither of them had any patent from the English company, which claimed them by grant from the crown of England. They were separate, distinct col- onies, independent of each other, and having no common bond of union, except what arose from their common origin, design, and dangers. In 1643, the Parliament of England granted a charter of civil government, under the name of " Providence Plantations, in New England, in America." This, with a slight interruption, constituted the fundamental law of the plantations until 1663, when Charles II., upon the petition of the inhabitants, granted them another charter, under the name of " the Governor and Company of the English Colony of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations, in New England, in America." This conferred on the colonists the right to elect all their officers, and to pass laws for their government, without the intervention, positive or negative, of either king or Parliament. It also guarantied to them liberty of con- science, in the most unlimited meaning of the term. This charter continued in force, with the exception of the few years when Sir Edmund Andros was the general governor of New England, until the American revolution. The people of this colony entered that struggle with great zeal. In May, 1776, the colony repealed the law, before that time in force, securing to his majesty the allegiance of his subjects. They abolished the oath of allegiance to the king, struck his name from all legal process, and directed all proceedings to be in the name of the colony, thus anticipating the Congress of the United Colonies on the question of independence. The colony united with her sister colonies in holding the old Continental Congress, and was among the first to direct her delegates to sign the Articles of Confederation. To those articles this state adhered with great pertinacity, until after all the others had deserted them, refusing to adopt the constitution of the United States until May 29, 1790. It has been said of Rhode Island with truth, that though " she was first at the. fight, she was last to the feast." 17 130 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. As the charter of 1663 vested the right to elect all officers in the people of the colony, the Declaration of Independence required no change in the form of government. Elections were held after as well as before that event by force of laws passed pursuant to its provisions. It lost its binding force as an instrument emanating from the King of England, at the passage of the act of May, 1776, but it continued to be referred to as written evidence of the unwritten con- stitution of the state until very recently. With this explanation, it may be said, with truth, that this charter, with the usages which grew up under it, modified from time to time by the action of the legislature, continued to be the constitution of the state until the present written constitution went into operation, on the 2d day of May, 1843. Under the charter, the right of suffrage was regulated by the General Assembly of the state, the charter being silent on the subject. In 1665, the General Assembly, in reply to a query on the subject proposed to them by the king's commissioners, declared, " that all men of competent estate, civil conversation, and obedient to the civil magistrate," were admitted freemen of the colony, on asking to be so admitted. There was no law declaring what should be considered as a " competent estate " until 1723, when the General Assembly by law enacted that no man should be admitted a freeman of any town, unless he owned lands in such town of the value of 100, or of the yearly value of 40s., or were the eldest son of such a freeholder. In 1729, the freehold qualification was raised to 200, or 10 yearly value ; and in 1746, to 400, or 20 yearly value. Subsequently it was reduced to 40, or 40 s. yearly value, and thus it stood in 1776. Some of these changes undoubtedly arose out of changes in the value of the pound. In 1798, the freehold qualification was fixed at $134, or yearly value of $7. Thus it continued until the constitution of 1843. By that instrument, the right of suffrage is conferred on every male citizen of the United States of the age of 21 years, who has his home and residence in this state for one year, and in the town where he claims to vote six months preceding his claim ; who owns a freehold estate in lands or real estate of the value of $134 above all encumbrances, or which rents for $7 per annum. Every native citizen of the United States, of the above age and residence, who is assessed and has paid a tax of $1, or who has been enrolled and done military duty for one day at least, has the right to vote in the election of all civil officers, and on all ques- tions, excepting only that unless he has been assessed and has paid a tax on property, valued at least at $134, he is not allowed to vote for the election of city council of Providence, or on any proposition to impose a tax, or for the expenditure of money in any town. The legislative power, under that constitution, is vested in the Senate and House of Rep- resentatives. The Senate consists of the lieutenant governor and one senator from each town. The governor presides over the deliberations of the Senate, and has the casting vote. The House of Representatives can never exceed 72 in number. Each town is entitled at least to one, and no town can have more than one sixth of the whole number. The ratio of representa- tion, with these exceptions, is based on population. The present ratio is one representative for every 1875 inhabitants. The Senate and House of Representatives are styled the General Assembly. They hold two stated sessions annually, one at Newport on the first Tuesday in May, and the other on the last Monday in October at South Kingston, once in two years, and in the intermediate years alternately at Bristol and East Greenwich. In addition to these, there are generally two adjourned sessions in each year, one of which is held in the summer at Newport, and the other at Providence in January. The governor, lieutenant governor, senators, representatives, secretary of state, attorney general, and general treasurer are elected annually on the first Wednesday in April, their official term commencing on the first Tuesday in May. All the other state officers, except judges of the Supreme Court, are elected annually by the General Assembly in joint ballot of both houses, the governor presiding. The judicial power in the state is vested in a Supreme Court, which holds two terms annu- ally in each county, and in Courts of Common Pleas for each county, which also hold two terms in each year. The Supreme Court consists of one chief and three associate justices, STATES AND TERRITORIES. RHODE ISLAND. 131 any IWD of whor i make a quorum. Courts of Common Pleas are held by one of the associate justices of the Supreme Court. The judges of these courts are elected, like other state offi- cers, by the General Assembly, but they hold their offices until they are declared vacant by a majority of all the members elected in each house at the May session. In all the towns except Providence and Newport, the town courts are, ex officio, courts of probate, and the town clerks registrars of probate and of deeds. The Municipal Court of Providence exercises probate jurisdiction. The city clerk is register of deeds. The industry and capital of the state were formerly devoted to agriculture and commerce. The latter was the favorite pursuit, as it led to greater wealth, and involved less personal labor. The peculiar situation of the state, and the commodiousness of its harbors, naturally turned the attention of its citizens to commercial pursuits. Rhode Island ships then visited all parts of the globe. They were the second, if not the first, to unfurl the stars and stripes in the Celestial Empire. For the last forty years, commerce has been gradually declining, until, at the present time, foreign trade is almost entirely confined to a few square-rigged vessels in the West India business. The number and tonnage of coasting vessels has increased during the same period. But capital and industry are pursuing new sources of wealth in manufactures and the mechanic arts. Calico printing was commenced here as early as 1794, on cotton cloth imported from the East Indies. Samuel Slater, the father of cotton manufactures in this country, set up his first cotton mill in the spring of 1796, in this state. Now, more per- sons are engaged in the various manufactures of cotton than in any other pursuit. The cen- sus of 1850 shows a great increase in the manufacturing interest, requiring vast expenditures. Public provision was first made by law for the establishment of public schools in this state in the year 1800. It soon became very unpopular, and was repealed in 1803. In 1828, the General Assembly passed a new law on the subject, which, with various amendments, is still in force. At the passage of this act, the legislature made an appropriation of $10,000 per year for the support of public schools, but for several years past the appropriation has been in- creased to $35,000. The number of scholars registered in the state, during the last year, in the public schools, was 24,733 ; in the instruction of which 239 male and 270 female teachers were employed. The amount expended for instruction, repairs of school-houses, &c., during the same period, was about $97,000. Those who are ready to brand this state with infamy for neglecting the cause of public education would do well to recollect that Rhode Island never had any resources for such an object, or even for the support of its government, except by taxation on its citizens. The small tracts of land which belonged to the state were disposed of at almost nominal prices, because the title to and jurisdiction over them were claimed by the adjoining colonies and others. Beyond the present boundaries the state never owned any land. There is but one university in the state. That is located at Providence. It was incorpo- rated in 1764, under the name of Rhode Island College. The name was changed to Brown University in 1804, in honor of the late Hon. Nicholas Brown, who was its most munificent benefactor. The Butler Hospital for the Insane was incorporated in January, 1844, under the name of the Rhode Island Hospital for the Insane. It received its present name from the late Cyrus Butler, Esq., the generous donor of $40,000 to its funds in his lifetime. The institution is located at Providence, on the banks of the Seekonk River. On the 1st of January, 1851, there were 113 patients within its walls, 50 males and 63 females. Owing to the utmost liberty of conscience, which has ever prevailed in this state, there are congregations of almost every denomination of Christians within its limits. Roger Williams became a Baptist soon after the settlement of Providence, and founded a church of that de- nomination there. The church remained, though he left it in a few months, and became a Seeker. The first church established on the Island of Rhode Island was also a Baptist one. The Friends soon established themselves there. The leader of the settlers at Warwick, Samuel Gorton, was the founder of the sect of Gortonists or Gortoneans, now extinct. In some parts of the state, Sabbatarian principles prevail to a great extent, the consequence of which 132 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. is a disregard of the Christian Sabbath. This circumstance has contributed to give the state that character for irreligion which some writers attribute to it. Notwithstanding this, and the jeers which have been indulged in by writers who should have known better, it is a fact, that there are as many religious societies, churches, and meeting-houses in this state, in proportion to its population, as in any other state in the Union. The only railroads erected in whole or in part in this state are the Boston and Providence, leading from Providence to Boston ; the New York, Providence, and Boston, leading from Providence to Stonington; the Providence and Worcester, leading from Providence to Worcester. Besides these, several others have been recently incorporated, and will probably soon be built. The Providence and Worcester Canal will long be remembered, having proved a complete failure. The banking capital of the state has for many years been enormously disproportioned to the population. It exceeds $12,000,000. Being, however, divided among nearly 70 banking institutions, it has generally been managed with safety to the public, and to the advantage of the stockholders. In January, 1838, the legislature abrogated the use of capital punishment in all cases ex- cept for murder and arson. At the same time, they substituted imprisonment and fine for all kinds of corporal punishments before that time in use in the state. During that year, the state prison at Providence was completed. The buildings consist of a keeper's house, and a range of forty cells, two stories high, adapted to the Pennsylvania system of discipline separate confinement at labor, with instruction. After a few years' experience, this system was abandoned, and the Auburn system substituted in its place. Since its establishment, 127 prisoners have been confined in it, of which number 37 remained its inmates in October, 1850. SOUTH CAROLINA is one of the Southern States of the American republic. It was originally included in the grant by Charles II. to Lord Clarendon and others, in 1662, which embraced both the Carolinas. The coast, however, had been discovered nearly two centuries anterior to the first attempt at a settlement thereon. In 1670, a few English emigrants laid the foundation of a colony at Port Royal, under William Sayle, who acted as their governor. In the following year, the colonists took what they deemed a more favorable position, on the western bank of Ashley River. Hence they again remaved, shortly afterwards, to the con- fluence of that and Cooper Rivers, the site of the present city of Charleston. But little STATES AND TERRITORIES. SOUTH CAROLINA. 133 progress was made by the settlers in this region, until the Carolinas were divided, in 1720. From this period, notwithstanding frequent hostile incursions and sanguinary cruelties on the part of the neighboring Indians, the affairs of the province continued steadily to advance, until the revolutionary war. During that struggle, the state performed her full share of duty, and encountered many and great sacrifices, arising from her exposed position. A military force, for the defence of the colony against the British, was organized at a very early period of the contest ; in 1776, an attack was made on Fort Moultrie, at the entrance of Charleston Harbor, in which the invaders were defeated ; but in 1780, the city itself was captured by Sir Henry Clinton, after a siege of six weeks, who held possession until 1782. A number of battles were fought upon the soil of South Carolina in the course of the war, one of which, that of Eutaw Springs, in 1781, had the effect of closing the war in that state. The consti- tution of the United States was adopted by this state, in convention, in May, 1788, by a vote of 149 to 73. The first state constitution, being the earliest in the Union, was formed in 1775 ; the present one was adopted in 1790. Boundaries and Extent. Bounded on the north and north-east by the State of North Caro- lina, on the east and south-east by the Atlantic Ocean, and on the south-west by the State of Georgia, the Savannah River forming the line of division. The state contains about 25,000 square miles, being about 200 miles in length, with an average breadth of 160 miles. Lati- tude from 32 2' to 35 10' north ; longitude from 78 24' to 83i west. Government. The governor, lieutenant governor, state secretary, treasurer, and surveyor general are elected by both branches of the legislature in joint ballot, each for the term of two years. The chief magistrate can only serve one term in any six years. The Senate is composed of 45 members, who are elected by the people for four years, one half the number being elected every two years. The House of Representatives contains 125 members, chosen by popular vote biennially. The right of suffrage is enjoyed by citizens who have resided in the county six months previous to the election, and paid taxes in the state for the year preceding. Judiciary. Judges and chancellors are chosen by the legislature, and hold office during good behavior. They may order special courts, and a chancellor may hear cases, by consent, at chambers. There are four chancellors in equity, and six judges of the General Sessions and Common Pleas ; the latter courts have original jurisdiction in all civil cases where legal rights are involved, (excepting in small matters of contract,) and in all criminal cases affecting free white men, &c. There are also Courts of Equity, held annually in each district; Ordi- nary's Courts in each district, having probate powers ; Magistrate's Courts, &c. Education. The free school system prevalent in most of the Northern and Western States is not yet fully incorporated with the institutions of South Carolina. Charity schools, how- ever, for the elementary instruction of poor white children, are supported through both public and private means, in many parts of the state. And yet the state contains upwards of 20,000 free white adults who could neither read nor write. A number of respectable acade- mies or high schools, and many primary schools, are well sustained by the wealthy classes. There are three colleges of some note, the most important of which is the College of South Carolina, founded in 1804 at Columbia, the state capital, and handsomely endowed by the state government. Connected with this is a Presbyterian theological seminary. Charleston College, founded in 1795, is an institution of less distinction, containing about 70 students. Another has been recently established in Abbeville district, called Erskine College, in which, at the commencement of the present year, were some 90 students. There is a state medical college, of high character, in the city of Charleston ; a Baptist theological seminary at the High Hills, and another, supported by the Lutherans, at Lexington. Finances. The income of the state, from all sources, during the year ending September 30, 1849, amounted to some $481,000, and the expenditures to $418,000, leaving an excess of $63,000. The state debt somewhat exceeds $2,250,000, and the property of the state is estimated at $5,000,000. The state taxes, in 1849, reached nearly $300,000. Surface, Soil, fyc. There is a broad belt of land, extending from 50 to 60 miles into the 134 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. interior, called the low country, which is flat, abounding in immense morasses and pine forests, and interspersed with fertile tracts, well adapted to the culture of rice, of which large quan- tities are here annually raised. Along the sea-coast there is a chain of valuable islands, the soil of which is admirably suited to the growth of the best descriptions of cotton. Near the centre of the state lies an arid and sterile region, presenting, for some 50 or 60 miles in width, and reaching nearly through the state, a succession of sand hills, in shape like motionless ocean waves, though containing, at intervals, spots of great fertility. Beyond this, by an abrupt acclivity, commences the upper country, which consists of an elevated table land, the soil being highly productive, and under excellent cultivation. Beyond this quarter, the surface becomes mountainous, occasionally exhibiting protuberances of considerable height. Table Mountain, the most lofty of these peaks, is about 4000 feet above the sea level. The peculiar staple product of the low country is rice, of which vast quantities are exported, amounting in value to some $3,000,000 annually. Of the two sorts of cotton raised in the state, (the short and the long staple,) the aggregate annual crop is estimated at some 70,000,000 of pounds, nearly all of which is exported to the Northern States and to Europe. Among the other vegeta- ble products are grains of nearly every variety ; fruits of the best kinds, as figs, pomegranates, apricots, nectarines, cherries, pears, peaches, melons, &c. Oranges, grown in the open air, are less sweet than those rafsed farther south. The sweet potatoes of South Carolina are renowned for the fineness of their flavor. Tobacco and indigo are raised in large quantities. Tar, pitch, turpentine, and vegetable oils are among the important natural products of the state. Rivers. The state is well supplied with watercourses. Some of the streams are of great extent, and afford navigation for steamers and small craft for considerable distances. The Great Pedee, which is 450 miles in length, passes from North Carolina through the easteni part of the state. The Santee, from the same quarter, is navigable 200 miles for steamers. The Saluda, Edisto, Cooper, Ashley, and Combahee, &c., are more or less navigable for sloops and flatboats. The Savannah, flowing between Georgia and South Carolina, affords steamboat navigation for a distance of 250 miles, and for smaller boats to a further extent of 150 miles. Internal Improvements. There are three railroads in this state, embracing an aggregate length of over 400 miles, of which nearly 300 are in travelling condition. One line, of 135 miles, connects Charleston with Hamburg, opposite Augusta, Georgia, on the Savannah River. Another is in progress from Charleston to Cincinnati, Ohio, a distance of 600 miles. Several canals have been constructed, which, though of inconsiderable extent, are of great utility. Minerals. Gold is found in many parts of the state, but mining operations are carried on with less spirit than in North Carolina. Iron, lead, plumbago, and various ochres are ob- tained in considerable quantities ; also marble, limestone, fine clay, fuller's earth, asbestos, soapstone, &c. Manufactures. South Carolina is not a large manufacturing state, although many articles for home use are fabricated in her workshops and upon her plantations. Some attempts to introduce the spinning and weaving of cotton have been made within a few years, but with indifferent success. Agriculture and commerce are the chief supports of the state. The abundance of her products from the former pursuit necessarily creates a large trade ; and her exports of raw material, including cotton, rice, lumber, pitch, tar, &c., are annually of great magnitude. Indians. No organized tribes, or large bands of native Indians, are at present residing within the state. Population. For the last 50 years, the white population of the state has but slowly advanced in numbers, compared with the increase of the slave population. Of 668,507 in- habitants at the date of the last census, 384,948 were slaves. In the low country, the blacks outnumber the whites in the proportion of more than three to one ; in the central parts of the state, the whites are rather the most numerous ; and in the upper country, the numerical difference between the two races is nearly reversed from that which exists in the lowland districts. STATES AND TERRITORIES. TENNESSEE. 135 Climate. A very healthy climate characterizes the elevated portions of the state, which diminishes in salubrity as the surface descends towards the coast. The swampy rice fields, stagnant marshes, and sluggish atmosphere, generate fevers and all the pestilential maladies peculiar to low and moist locations, not watered by running streams, nor swept by pure breezes. The winters are short, mild, and rarely accompanied by snow or ice. Vegetation starts very early in spring. The heat of the long summers is intolerable to persons unaccli- mated; but the autumn is generally a very pleasant, though at its commencement an un- healthy season. Religion. Of the religious denominations, the most numerous are Methodists, Baptists, and Presbyterians. There are also large numbers of Episcopalians and Lutherans, besides many congregations of Roman Catholics and Jews, and several societies of Universalists, Unitarians, and Quakers. TENNESSEE, formerly 'considered and denominated one of the "Western States," may now more properly be said to belong to the easterly geographical division of the American republic, since there is but one state lying between Tennessee and the Atlantic Ocean, while, on the other hand, there are five large states and territories between its westerly boundary and the shores of the Pacific. The original charter of North Carolina, granted in 1664 by King Charles II., embraced the area now included within the limits of this state. This region con- tinued to be occupied by various large tribes of natives for more than a century after the above date, during the latter part of which period the early attempts of the whites to form settlements gave rise to frequent and sanguinary conflicts. In 1751, the Indians having offered donations of land as inducements for mechanics and farmers to establish their residences among them, a fort was erected and garrisoned near the centre of the tract held by the Cherokees. In the course of a few years, viz., in 1760, the latter commenced war upon the garrison, which they besieged and forced to capitulate. But the conquerors, in perfidious violation of their agreement, that the defeated party, some 300 in number, should be allowed to retire beyond the Blue Ridge, fell upon them when advanced about 20 miles on their way, and bar- barously murdered every individual, excepting only 9 persons. In the following year, an expedition under Colonel Grant inflicted retributive chastisement upon the savages, and com- pelled them submissively to beg for peace. All the settlements hitherto made had been abandoned ; but, after the cessation of hostilities, many persons from North Carolina and Virginia made renewed efforts to colonize this part of the country. In 1768-9, a body of 136 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. settlers planted themselves in the eastern quarter of Tennessee, and, their numbers continuing to increase, a large tract of land was purchased, though with much difficulty, in 1775. In the succeeding year, however, a warfare again occurred, which terminated in an arrangement with the two colonies above mentioned, whereby the boundaries of Tennessee were determined. The settlers continued to proceed westward, and, in 1779, having crossed the Cumberland Mountains, penetrated as far as the site on which Nashville now stands. The war of the revolution raged at this period throughout the land, and the inhabitants of Tennessee suffered greatly from the combined assaults of the British and Indians. In 1780, a memora- ble battle was fought at King's Mountain, in which the hardy backwoodsmen signally defeated the enemy ; and in 1781, the Cherokee and Chickasaw tribes were glad to negotiate for peace. Up to the year 1790, North Carolina had exercised jurisdiction over this portion of the western territory ; although, in the mean time, numerous controversies had taken place among the people, in regard to their political position, together with some contradictory legislation on the same subject. In that year, the territory was duly ceded to the United States by North Carolina, and Congress forthwith placed the "country south-west of the Ohio" under an appropriate form of government. The territory was repeatedly harassed by the Creeks and Cherokees, whose object was to prevent the further progress of the whites, until the year 1794, when a final and permanent treaty was concluded between those tribes and the United States. In 1795, the territory having acquired the requisite amount of population to become an inde- pendent state, a constitution was framed ; and, in 1796, Tennessee was admitted as a member of the Union. Boundaries and Extent. This state is bounded on the north by the States of Kentucky and Virginia, on the east by North Carolina, on the south by Georgia, Alabama, and Mississippi, and on the west by the States of Arkansas and Missouri, from which it is separated by the River Mississippi. It lies between 35 and 36 40 7 north latitude, and 81 40' and 90 15' west longitude ; having an average length, from east to west, of some 430 miles, with a breadth of somewhat over 100 miles, and containing an area of 45,600 square miles. Government. By the constitution, as revised in 1835, the governor is elected every two years by a plurality vote of the people, and can serve only three terms in any four. The Senate is composed of 25 members, who are elected also biennially. The House of Rep- resentatives consists of 75 members, chosen in like manner for the same period ; and the legislature convenes only once in two years. All free white citizens, resident in the county where voting for six months previous to an election, are qualified electors. The right of suffrage is not denied to colored persons, who are by law competent witnesses in courts of justice. Judiciary. Judges of the Supreme Court are elected, by joint vote of the legislature, for terms of twelve years, and judges of the inferior courts for eight years. There are three judges of the Supreme Court, (one for each of the judicial divisions of the state,) four chancellors, and fourteen judges of the Circuit Courts. There is also a Criminal Court for Davidson county, and a Common Law and Chancery Court for the city of Memphis. Justices of the peace ard elected in districts for six years ; sheriffs are chosen in counties for two years, and are ineligi- ble for more than three terms in succession ; registers hold office four years. Education. The school fund of Tennessee amounts to nearly $1,500,000. The interest of this fund is annually apportioned to all the districts wherein a school-house has been pro- vided ; but the system of free education, which is the glory of many other members of the Union, seems not yet to be fully understood or appreciated by the people of this state. Still, the inhabitants support somewhat over 1000 common or primary schools, perhaps a tithe of what are needed, 200 or 300 academies, some of which are of respectable rank ; and six or eight collegiate institutions, of varied character and standing. The two oldest of these latter are Greenville College, in East Tennessee, and Washington College, Washington county, both founded in 1794 ; but the most prominent is the University of Nashville, founded in 1806. And, after all, the number of white adults within the state who can neither read nor write may be estimated at about 60,000. STATES AND TERRITORIES. TENNESSEE. 137 Finances. The receipts and disbursements of the state, for a few years past, have nearly balanced each other. From the returns for the biennial term ending October, 1849, the ex- penditures had amounted to some $800,000 ; to meet which the revenues had fallen short less than $12,000. The state* holds productive property valued at near $5,000,000, and owes a debt of nearly $3,500,000. Its ordinary annual expenditure, independently of the school appropriations and interest on the public debt, is somewhat less than $300,000. Surface, Soil, fyc. The state is usually considered as being divided into three nominal sections, severally known as West, Middle, and East Tennessee. The former, situated be- tween the Mississippi and Tennessee Rivers, presents an undulating surface generally, though .n some parts nearly level, with a light but productive soil, finely suited to the cultivation of cotton, the chief staple in this quarter. The middle section is more uneven and hilly, though not mountainous ; and the lands are of somewhat better quality. East Tennessee, bordering on North Carolina, is an elevated region, containing numerous lofty and picturesque mountains, mostly covered to their summits with noble forests. Here are the Cumberland and Laurel Mountains, and other conspicuous branches of the Alleghany range. The soil throughout the state, with the occasional exception of rough and broken tracts among the high lands, is very fertile, yielding generous crops of agricultural products. Timber of every variety common to tne adjacent states is found in great plenty. In addition to the trees ordinarily composing the western forests, there are upon the mountains vast groves of magnificent pines, furnishing, material for the extensive manufacture of tar, rosin, spirits of turpentine, and lampblack ; the juniper and red cedar. also abound; and the mulberry is so plentiful and thrifty, that the silk culture might be pursued, with great profit, to an unlimited extent. Peach and other fruit- trees, the vine, &c., are cultivated with ample success ; and, besides cotton, excellent wheat, Indian corn, tobacco, potatoes of every kind, and all the usual varieties of vegetables, are raised in large quantities. A considerable portion of the cotton raised in this state is sent into contiguous states in the interior, for home manufacturing. Rivers. Tennessee is watered in various directions by many important streams. The great Mississippi flows by, and constitutes its entire western boundary. The Tennessee River crosses the state between the divisions called Western and Middle Tennessee. The Cumber- land, a tributary of the Ohio, though taking its rise in, and returning to, the State of Kentucky, has its course principally in Tennessee. There are many other large navigable streams ; and East Tennessee, particularly, possesses a vast amount of water power, admirably fitting it for a manufacturing country. Internal Improvements. There are five railroads, including branches, now being constructed within the state, embracing an extent of 600 miles, of which only about 30 miles are yet in operation. The estimated cost of these works is $600,000. The principal of these are pro- jected continuations of various routes from Georgia, North Carolina, Louisiana, &c. Minerals. Gold, iron, coal, and salt are the most valuable among the divers mineral prod- ucts of Tennessee. The former exists in the south-eastern quarter of the state, but to what extent is not wholly developed, no systematic explorations on a large scale having yet taken place. In the eastern and middle sections, iron ore is found in great quantities, and of superior quality. In the same quarters, also, there are immense beds of excellent coal. Salt springs are numerous, and there is an abundance of marble, gypsum, various pigments, nitrous earths, &c. Manufactures. These consist chiefly of goods for domestic consumption ; although manu- factured articles to some considerable amount are exported. There are cotton and woollen factories, iron works, machine shops, ropewalks, mechanics' establishments of all descriptions, potteries, distilleries, breweries, a great number of flour mills, grist mills, &c. ; the whole employing a capital of some $6,000,000. Indians. Most of the tribes which heretofore occupied the territory have passed across the great dividing stream, and taken up their residence upon lands in the Indian Territory, in accordance with treaty stipulations. No bands of native Indians exist, as such, within the limits of the state. Population. There were, in 1800, somewhat over 100,000 inhabitants in this state. Since 18 138 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. that period, the population has been found, at every decennial census, to have increased prodi- giously. It has now reached an aggregate of 1,002,625 of which nearly a fourth part are slaves. Climate. Tennessee is favored with a very mild and generally salubrious climate. In the eastern part, it is particularly so ; and is not surpassed, in all the desirable attributes of a genial temperature, by any other region of North America. It is, of course, varied, in some measure, throughout the state. But, from its geographical position, it may be pronounced healthy in every section, and almost entirely exempt from those destructive epidemics by which some of the neighboring states are frequently afflicted. Religion. Methodists and Baptists constitute the larger portion of the religious denomina- tions within this state. There are likewise large bodies of Presbyterians and Episcopalians, together with several congregations of Lutherans, Romanists, Friends, &c. I ; TEXAS was formerly one of the Mexican possessions, though a distant province ; being, as was generally admitted, one of the many conquests of Fernando Cortes, in the sixteenth century. At the period of its subjugation, it was inhabited by savages of the worst descrip- tion. Prior to the year 1690, a French colony occupied a small district; but they were sub- sequently driven out by the Spaniards, under whose jurisdiction the country remained, with few or no intervals of agitation, sunk in the obscurity and lethargy of despotism, until the abdication of Charles VI. of Spain, in 18C8. At this time, the people of Mexico began to assert their claim to the privilege of self-government ; and in 1810, an open rebellion against the European authorities ensued. In 1813, a national Congress issued a declaration of inde- pendence ; but a civil war raged for several years among various parties, upon the question as to what form of government should be established. At one time, the imperial party pre- vailed, and Mexico became an empire. This continued but for a brief period : a new system, organized like that of the United States, was adopted, and Mexico became a federal republic, Texas constituting an integral member. A series of revolutions succeeded, during which Texas separated itself from the confederation, achieved its independence by the battle of San Jacinto, in 1836, and erected itself into a distinct republic. A constitution was formed in the same year, and the first elections under the same were held forthwith. In 1845, after a pro- longed controversy, Texas was annexed to the United States, and admitted into union there- with, by a joint resolution of both houses of Congress, ratified by the Texan people. STATES AND TERRITORIES. TEXAS. 139 Boundaries and Extent. This state is bounded on the north by portions of New Mexico, Nebraska, and the Indian Territory ; on the east by the Indian Territory, and by the State of .Louisiana, from the latter of which it is partially separated by the River Sabine ; on the south- east and south by the Gulf of Mexico ; on the south-west by the River Bravo del Norte, dividing it from the Mexican possessions ; and on the west by the same, and by New Mexico. It lies between 26 and 36 30' north latitude, and extends from 94 to 105 west longitude. It is of very irregular form, and is computed to contain about 237,320 square miles ; a portion of the original area claimed by Texas, when a republic, having been set off by Congress, at the time of its admission as a state, in the formation of the Territory of New Mexico. Government. The existing constitution of the state guaranties the right of suffrage to every free white male, 21 years of age, after a residence of one year in the state, and six months in the district where voting. The executive officers, who can serve but four out of any six years, are elected for terms of two years by a plurality of the popular vote. The secretary of state, treasurer, and comptroller are chosen also for two years, by the legislature in joint ballot. Senators are chosen for four years, one half the number retiring from office every two years ; the whole number not to be less than 19, nor more than 33. Repre- sentatives, not to exceed 90 nor fall short of 45 in number, are elected biennially ; and the sessions of the legislature are held at like intervals. Persons concerned in duels are disqual- ified from holding office. Grants of money for internal improvements, &c., cannot be made without the sanction of two thirds of both houses. The laws are to be revised once in every ten years. Homesteads are exempted from forced sales for debt. The real and personal property of a wife is protected from seizure for the payment of the husband's debts. Corpora- tions are not to be created with banking powers. The state cannot subscribe for stock in private corporations, nor borrow money, nor contract debts in time of peace to an amount ex- ceeding $100,000, unless by a two thirds vote of the legislature. No law for the emancipation of slaves can be passed, without consent of owners, and the payment of full compensation. The introduction of slaves as merchandise may be prohibited. Owners of slaves may be com- pelled by law to treat them with care and kindness ; and in cases of refusal or neglect, the slaves may be taken and sold for account of the owners. Slaves may have a trial by jury when charged with crimes greater than petit larceny, and are protected against abuse or loss of life equally with the whites, excepting when engaged in a revolt. Judiciary. The Supreme Court comprises a chief justice and two associates, appointed for six years, who hold sessions annually, between June and October, in not more than three places within the state. It has appellate jurisdiction, but is under legislative control in criminal cases and appeals from interlocutory judgments. The District Courts are eleven in number, each having its local judge, appointed for six years, and holding sessions semiannually. They have original jurisdiction in criminal cases, and in suits involving $100 and upwards. If punishments in cases of crime be not specifically defined by law, they are to be determined by the jury. In equity causes, each party has a right to demand a jury. Judges are nominated by the executive, and confirmed by a two thirds vote of the Senate. Education. The nucleus of a school fund has been formed, by a constitutional provision, requiring the reservation of ten per cent, of the annual state revenue derived from taxation, as a permanent fund for the maintenance of free public schools. Public lands granted for school purposes cannot be leased for longer terms than 20 years, nor alienated in fee. The important subject of education has, however, as yet, occupied no great share of the public mind. Some schools, of tolerable repute, are supported in the most populous settlements ; and a late writer asserts that there are, also, some colleges in the state ; but this report is scarcely sanctioned by any collateral authority. It is supposed, nevertheless, that the state contains fewer free persons over 20 years of age, who can neither read nor write, in proportion to the whole population, than any other of the Southern States of the Union. Finances. Texas is burdened with a heavy public debt, partly entailed upon the state by the late republic. The ostensible amount of its liabilities, in December, 1849, as reported by the auditor and comptroller, was upwards of $11,000,000, the par value of which is rated at 140 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. about one half that sum. The revenues of the state were estimated at $110,000, consisting of a tax of $92,000 upon real and personal property, valued at $46,000,000, and a poll tax amounting to $18,000. The average annual expenditures of the state may be set down at $100,000. Surface, Soil, fyc. The appearance of the surface of the country is described as that of a vast inclined plane, gradually sloping from the mountainous elevations in the west, towards the sea-coast on the south-east, and intersected by multitudes of streams, flowing in a south- easterly direction. It may be considered as comprehending three several divisions, each differing in some respects from the others. The first, commencing at the sea-coast, and extending inland from 50 to 100 miles, is a level and exceedingly fertile region, with a rich alluvial soil, exempt from those stagnant quagmires and lagoons which usually characterize the shores of the Southern States, beautifully wooded on the river borders, and abounding with extensive pasture lands, covered with an exuberant growth of native grasses and herbage. The next is a region of greater extent, presenting an undulating surface, composed chiefly of grassy prairies, interspersed with compactly timbered forests. The soil here rests upon a substratum of limestone and sandstone, and is of excellent quality. The third and loftiest region, situated among or near the great chain known as the Mexican Alps, consists partly of tracts of productive table land ; but the mountain sides are also prolific in almost every variety of trees and shrubbery, while the intervening valleys, enclosing rich bottom lands, are extraor- dinarily fruitful, capable of repaying the toil of the husbandman a hundred fold. Indeed, the entire area of this immense state may be said to present, naturally, one of the most admirable countries on earth for agricultural purposes. The state is well wooded throughout. Among the trees most common are live oak of superior quality, other descriptions of oak, hickory, elm, walnut, sycamore, many varieties of acacia, cypress, caoutchouc, &c. The uplands also pro- duce ample supplies of cedar, pine, and similar forest-trees. Fruits and garden vegetables, of every desirable sort, are cultivated with great ease and success. Peaches, melons, grapes, and other fruits known in temperate climates, are raised in profusion ; and figs, oranges, lemons, dates, pineapples, olives, and other tropical fruits abound in the southern parts of the state. The products of the field consist of cotton, (the great staple,) maize, wheat, rye, barley, and other grains, the sugar-cane, potatoes of each kind, &c. Rice and tobacco are grown to some extent in different quarters ; and among the indigenous plants are indigo, vanilla, sarsa- parilla, and many medicinal shrubs. As a grazing country, Texas is exceeded by few or none of her sister states. Vast numbers of cattle, horses, mules, sheep, and swine are raised upon the prairie lands, receiving or requiring but little human care. Buffaloes and wild horses range the prairies in immense droves ; and the deer, the bear, and other game, are every where abundant. Rivers. In addition to the rivers which form portions of the state boundary, the chief streams are the Neches, Trinity, Brazos, Colorado, San Antonio, Guadaloupe, and Nueces, with their countless tributaries, all flowing towards, and ultimately emptying into, the Gulf of Mexico, after passing generally through the estuaries so numerous along that coast. These bays, being commonly obstructed by sand bars or narrow strips of land, do not afford con- venient harbors, except for vessels of small draught. Steamboats drawing 12 feet of water can enter and ascend the Sabine ; and the Rivers Neches, Trinidad, and Brazos are navigable, for similar craft, from 50 to 300 miles. The San Antonio and Nueces afford no navigation of importance ; and the Colorado, though a fine stream, is obstructed near its mouth by a large raft, which in course of time will probably be removed, when vessels may pass up to Austin, the state capital, 220 miles from the gulf. The Rio Grande del Norte, on the south-western border, is a noble stream of some 1800 miles in length, and is already becoming a great com- mercial channel, though occasionally impeded by shoals and rapids. Internal Improvements. Although admitting of unbounded improvements in facilities for internal intercourse, Texas can as yet boast of very few such advantages in the shape of rail- roads or canals. A railway, to connect Galveston Bay with the River Brazos, through Hous- ton and Harrisburg, is in progress, and the iron for 30 miles of the route is already provided. STATES AND TERRITORIES. TEXAS. 141 Another is in contemplation, to extend from San Antonio to the Gulf of Mexico. A canal from Galveston Bay to Brazos is also in course of construction. Minerals. Silver mines formerly existed in the north-west part of the possessions of the late republic, but no deposits of that metal have been discovered within the limits of the present state. Excellent coal, and iron ore, abound in most of the inland districts. There are great quantities of nitre in the eastern quarter ; there are multitudes of salt springs and lakes, from which large supplies of salt are procured ; and bitumen is found in various locali- ties. In all parts of the state except the low alluvial region, there is plenty of granite, lime- stone, gypsum, &c. Manufactures. Nothing of great public importance has yet been effected in this branch of industry. Thus far the labors of the inhabitants have been principally confined to pur- suits connected with agriculture, and to the preparation of their products for market as raw material. Few or no articles for exportation have as yet been fabricated in the state. Indians. The territory and its neighborhood is still infested by hordes or remnants of tribes of savages, most of whom subsist by predatory incursions, often of the most destructive and sanguinary character. Efforts are in constant progress to reduce these marauders, by various methods, to a state of comparative peace and amity ; but until the country shall have become more densely peopled, this desirable result will not probably be effected. Population. The civilized inhabitants of Texas comprise emigrants from all the other states of the Union, besides the descendants of the original Spanish settlers, and persons in whom Mexican and Indian blood is blended. The former class, in all probability, compose a majority of the present population, which, by the census of 1850, was as follows : Whites, 154,100 ; free colored, 331 ; slaves, 58,161 ; total, 212,592. Climate. Texas is represented usually, by those who have travelled or resided in it, as possessing a delightful climate ; and as being remarkably healthy in every part, with few excep- tions at particular seasons. The wet and dry seasons, as in California, constitute the winter and summer. The former commences in December, and continues until March ; the residue of the year, which is the dry season, comprehends spring, summer, and autumn. Severe cold weather never marks the winter season, and snow is very uncommon, except upon the moun- tain peaks. The heat of summer, although intense, is greatly modified by the regular and brisk breezes which prevail daily from sunrise until about 3 o'clock, P. M. ; and throughout the year, the nights are said to be invariably cool. Between April and September, the tem- perature varies from 63 to 100 Fahrenheit, the average range at noon being about 83. In summer, intermittent fevers are commonly prevalent in the low lands upon the Gulf cpast, though rarely assuming an epidemic character. Religion. Among the descendants of the earliest settlers, the Roman Catholic is of course the prevailing religion, as in New Mexico. But since the revolution, which resulted in the severance of Texas from Mexican sway, other Christian denominations, of almost every class and name known in the older states of the Union, have multiplied and flourished ; and the cathedrals erected by the devotees of the pope are now vastly outnumbered by the churches and other houses of worship occupied by Episcopalians, Presbyterians, Baptists, Method- ists, &c. 142 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. UTAH is a newly-organized territory among the distant western possessions of the United States, deriving its name from that of the Pah-Utahs, a numerous tribe of native Indians, heretofore and still, with other tribes, occupying large portions of the country. It formerly composed a very considerable share of the wide-spread wilderness known as Upper or New California, and was consequently considered a Mexican dependency. Very few settlements have ever been made or attempted within the present limits of this region ; in fact, it has scarcely been deemed habitable by civilized beings. The territory, together with that of New Mexico, and of the lately-formed State of California, fell to the United States by right of conquest, during the war with Mexico, and was duly transferred by the latter, under the, treaty of 1848. For further information as to the general history of the country, see the arti- cles California and New Mexico. By the act of Congress passed September 9, 1850, establishing a territorial government for Utah, the limits of the territory are defined as follows : Bounded on the west by the State of California ; on the north by the Territory of Oregon ; on the east by the summit of the Rocky Mountains ; and on the south by the parallel of 37 north latitude, which forms the dividing line between this territory and that of New Mexico. It extends from the 37th to the 42d degrees of north latitude, and lies between the 107th and 120th degrees of west longitude ; having a breadth of 300, and an average length from east to west of some 600 miles, con- taining an area of about 180,000 square miles. It is provided by the same act, that this territory, when admitted as a state into the Union, shall be received with or without the toleration of slavery, as may be prescribed by its own constitu- tion. All free white males, residents in the territory at the date of said act, were empowered to vote at the first elections, and made eligible to any office in the territory ; after which the legislative assembly shall fix the qualifications of electors. The governor holds office for four yeirs, and receives his appointment from the executive of the United States. He must reside - ithin the territory, act as superintendent of Indian affairs, and commission all territo- rial officers. He may pardon crimes against the laws of the territory, and reprieve offenders against the United States laws, until the president's will be known. The President of the United States also appoints a territorial secretary for a like term, who administers the govern- ment in case of the governor's disability. A Council of 13 members, and House of Represen- tatives, 26 in number, compose the legislative assembly. The former serve two years, the latter one year, and are elected by plurality of the popular votes. They are to be chosen in appropriate districts, and a due apportionment thereof is to be made by law. Legislative sessions are not to continue beyond 40 days. No laws interfering with the primary disposal of the soil, imposing taxes on United States property, or requiring extra taxes on property of non-residents, can be passed by the legislature. No law is valid until approved by Congress. A Supreme Court, District and Probate Courts, and justices of the peace, constitute the judicial power of the territory. The former comprises a chief and two associate justices, to sit annually at the seat of government, and to hold office four years. A District Court is held by one of the supreme judges, at times provided by law, in each of the three judicial districts of the territory. Justices of peace cannot try cases involving land titles, or debts exceeding $100. Both the Supreme and District Courts have chancery powers, and common law juris- diction. Appeals from a District to the Supreme Court cannot have trials by jury. An attorney and marshal are appointed by the United States government for a term of four years. After a survey of the lands under authority of the general government, two sections in each township, equivalent to one eighteenth part of the whole territory, are to be set apart for the support of public education. It is trusted that the sinister disposal, in some of the new state* and territories, of similar liberal provisions for this object, will in due time be guarded against, in this territory, by the friends of common schools. STATES AND TERRITORIES. UTAH. 143 Regarding the finances of this newly-formed territory, there are as yet no authentic reports. Those who have explored the northern part of the country, the number of whom is not jTreat, describe it as mountainous, rugged, and generally barren, without forests, and destitute of valuable indigenous vegetation. Spots occasionally are presented which yield good grass for pasturage ; and here and there may be found valleys of small extent, which are tolerably fertile. Towards the western boundary, near the bases of the Sierra Nevada, the soil is generally good. Numerous lakes, emitting streams of moderate size, lie along this region, affording convenient means for irrigation. But the central portion of the country, judging from the imperfect accounts which are at present accessible, is a wide sandy waste, producing, it is true, for a short season after the winter rains, a profusion of grasses and beautiful flowers, all which the succeeding summer heat reduces to an ashy desert. In other quarters, the country exhibits a rolling surface, with tracts of considerable fertility, often well wooded and watered, with frequent and extensive openings of prairie lands, and tracts of low grounds composed of a rich and loamy soil. Upon the whole, although a very large portion of the territory has never been subjected to cultivation, and still seems unfit for the permanent abode of civilized human beings, it is nevertheless susceptible of unlimited improvement; and the efforts of industry and science may yet convert it into "a land flowing with milk and honey." The principal rivers within the territory, so far as they have yet been traced or partially examined, are named Rio de los Animas, Grand, White, Tampa, Vermilion, St. Mary's, Vin- tan, and Duchesne Rivers, most of which, with their smaller branches, flow from the north- east, and ultimately unite with the Great Colorado of the West. The latter appears to take its rise in the western slopes of the Rocky Mountains, near the north-east angle of the terri- tory, and, taking a south-western direction, passes through New Mexico, forming part of the boundary between that territory and the State of California, and finally discharges itself into the Gulf of California. Great Salt Lake, a vast body of water lying near the centre of the northern boundary, is the sourcq of numerous watercourses flowing north and east. Hum- boldt's River flows in a north-east direction, from a lake of that name near the mountains on the west. A river of some extent is connected with Nicollet's Lake, a large sheet, lying in the central part of the territory. A chain of lakes extends northerly from Humboldt's Lake, the principal of which are Carson's and Walker's Lakes. Pyramid Lake, which is of consid- erable magnitude, and several smaller collections of water, lie at the foot of the great moun- tain range which separates Utah from California. From each of these, several rivers stretch out in various directions, and are finally lost in the sands of the desert. . No regular mineralogical survey of this region has yet been undertaken, and its mineral resources, which are doubtless great, remain of course undeveloped. Coal, alum, and salt, are said to have been found in some localities. Excellent clay for the manufacture of pottery abounds in the central and northern parts ; and satisfactory indications of iron ore have been discovered. Besides the rude utensils and habiliments fabricated by the natives, there are no manufac- tured articles, of any note, produced within the territory; unless, indeed, the operations of the Mormons 'be considered an exception. This unique and erratic people, at their large settlement on Salt Lake, have erected various manufacturing establishments, including grain and lumber mills, woollen factories, potteries, &c. and are able to construct most of the farm- ing or domestic implements, including fine cutlery, required for their own use. This settle- ment, prior to the organization of the territory, was called by the colonists " the State of Des- eret." The only railroad yet projected in that country is to be forthwith commenced here, to extend from Mormon city eastward, to the base of a mountain, where are extensive stone quarries. The chief purpose of the road is to convey stone and other materials into the city, for building. But little is known of the present condition and numbers of the native tribes that are con- stantly roaming through this and the neighboring regions. The character of these wanderers, generally, is no better than that of the wildest Arabs or Hottentots. Attempts are in 144 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. progress to treat with some of the more approachable among them ; and, where they can be reduced to a state less inconsistent with the true objects of human existence by no other means, large bounties in lands, or " tribute money," will doubtless be resorted to by the gen- eral government. Excepting the colony composing the Mormon settlement, and the occupants of the few armed stations established by the United States, with perhaps an occasional ranche.ro occupied by Roman Catholic missionaries, there are no white or civilized inhabitants among the popu- lation of Utah. At all events, the enumeration is not yet completed ; for Congress, by a sup- plement to the act for taking the seventh census, foreseeing the difficulty of completing the same within the State of California, and the Territories of Oregon, New Mexico, and Utah, by the originally specified time, has authorized an extension of the period, at the discretion of the secretary of the interior. Years may therefore elapse before the completion of this work. The climate of Utah is in general more mild than that of the states on the east included within the same latitudes. Upon the sterile deserts in the central and southern parts, the summer heats are intense, and the climate sickly. Nearer the more fertile districts on the west, the temperature is equable, with less difference between the extremes of heat and cold than is usually the case on the Atlantic coast. The elevated lands, to a certain height, are consid- ered very healthy ; but travellers upon the mountain summits have frequently been attacked by fatal fevers and other alarming maladies. In the north, the winters are sufficiently mod- erate to admit of hydraulic operations throughout most of the season. The only religious organization, if it can be so called, which is now maintained in the terri- tory, is that of the Mormons, or " Latter Day Saints." Besides their establishment at Salt Lake, they have formed a colony in Iron county, about 250 miles south, among the high lands near the boundary of New Mexico ; a position, around which the country is well wooded and watered, abounding in iron ore, and promising plenty of coal. See Salt Lake City, Appen- dix, No. 2. VERMONT. The territory which is now included in the State of Vermont, and which lies between Lower Canada, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, and New York, was, for a long time after the surrounding settlements were made, in great measure unexplored by Europeans. In its vicinity, Canada was the first known and peopled by them, and a settlement was then made by the Dutch at Aurania, now Albany, and at the mouth of the Hudson. Then followed the settlements along the New England shores ; but a considerable period elapsed before they STATES AND TERRITORIES. VERMONT. 145 penetrated the interior, and, consequently, that interior was hardly marked but by marauding parties of Indians, and the footsteps of their unfortunate captives. It is not found that any large body of the natives was cantoned within the present limits of the state. There was, indeed, a tribe bearing the name of Coossucks in the north-east part of it ; * but these were inconsiderable in number, and hardly known in the records of warfare, being surrounded, although at no little distance, by larger tribes. These tribes consisted, in the first place, of the Five or Six Confederated Nations, at the head of whom figured the Mohawks. Among the French they bore the name of Iroquois, and had at an early period become their enemies, connecting themselves successively with the Dutch and English of New York, and adhering to their interests with great fidelity for more than a century and a half. The territory occupied by them, although denominated Canadian by Golden, in 1747, was included within the present boundaries of New York, being south of the St. Lawrence and the lakes, although their conquests extended far to the north and north-west. They were the terror of other tribes, yet seem never to have settled to the eastward of the Hudson, and the beautiful lake which was once denominated from them, but now has the name of ChamplainJ The Indians who were in alliance with the French of Canada were principally the Algonkins, otherwise called Jldirondacks, a tribe between whom and the Iroquois there were frequent wars, the result of hostilities previous to the arrival of Europeans.! Whether or not the tribe denominated of St. Francis, as residing on the banks of that river, were of Algonkin or more eastern derivation, or whether connected with the Coossucks or not, is not clear. Charlevoix describes them as Abenakis, who had left their brethren of the east, and migrated to Canada for the benefit of an alliance with the French. On the south-east and south, the Indians of the other New England States, New Hamp- shire, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, and Connecticut, inhabited mostly the sea-coast, and appear to have greatly dreaded the warlike character and prowess of the Mohawks. On the east were the Abenakis, Etechemins, and Micmacs, attracted also to the sea-shore, doubtless by the facility of procuring thence a portion of their provisions. Thus it would seem that the interior country which now forms Vermont was, as it were, a thoroughfare between powerful contending Indian nations or tribes, without being conspicuous as the seat of any considerable body of natives. It was traversed, rather than settled by them ; its water conveyances north and south admitting also an easy navigation by their canoes ; and hence, in the remote periods of native history, has little that requires or can repay research. This is an observable peculiarity. Another circumstance, which still more strikingly characterizes the country, is the history of the claims made on its territory by the states with which it is environed. To enter minutely into this history is no aim of the present work. But without adverting to it, our account would be exceedingly incomplete, as it tended not a little to mould the character of the inhab- itants. For, in the process of settling the country, the lamentable conflicting of claims, as will be seen, imposed severe hardships on the enterprising men who ventured to leave the older settlements, and form in the wilderness homes for their growing families. Many a town contains in its rural bury ing-place the remains of " Some village Hampden, who, with dauntless breast, The little tyrant of his fields withstood ; " since, as successive claimants pressed their demands, the inhabitants were compelled to * See a description of this tribe of Indians in Mr. Thompson's very valuable " History of Vermont, Natural, Civil, and Statistical." f Holmes^ Annals, vol. i. p. 141. This name was given in 1611, three years after Champlain had founded Quebec. See also Dunlap's Hist, of N. Y. vol. i. p. 19. * See Colden, Hist, of the Five Nations, Part I., and the excellent " Synopsis of the Indian Tribes," by the Hon. Mr. Gallatin, published in the Coll. of the Amer. Antiq. Soc. vol. ii., where the Adirondacks are characterized as of the " family " of Algonkm-Lenape. 19 146 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. repurchase their farms or leave them, suffering over again the grievances which disgraced the government of Andros, and ended in his seizure and confinement by the injured and enraged people.* His arbitrary cupidity, in which he but too faithfully imitated his worthless master, the bigoted and tyrannical James II., set an unhappy example, which yet was followed, and produced a hardihood of opposition that nerved the men of Vermont to daring actions. When the country which forms the sea-coast of New England began to be settled from Europe, the claim of Massachusetts to territory was extended to " three miles north of the River Merrimac." Casting one's eye on the map, it is easy to perceive, that a line drawn due west from this northern boundary, as it is fonned by the bend of the river towards the north, not far from its mouth, would cut off a considerable portion of the southern part of what now constitutes Vermont. The Massachusetts government, therefore, when it extended its cares to the security of the northern frontiers against the Indians of Canada, without any hesitation or doubt, as it seerns, formed, in 1723, a lodgment in what is now Brattleborough, on the western bank of Connecticut River. There, during the distressing war with the natives, aided by the French, then: instigators, which spread such terror and desolation along the borders of the settlements of Maine and New Hampshire, as well as Massachusetts, a fort was constructed by Lieutenant Governor Dummer, of the latter state, which received his name, and the next year a settlement followed. This was the first English settlement within the limits of Vermont.f But although the frontier towards Canada was thus extended, and, under the shelter of a fort, the labors of clearing and cultivating the land appeared practicable, yet the country was by no means in a state of security. We must never forget that American colonists were from different nations. Spaniards, we know, peopled the southern part of the continent, or overran it with their merciless troops, at an early period after its discovery by Columbus. And, jeal- ous as they ever were of any encroachment on their power, wealth, or influence, they would not have left " the bleak, inhospitable north " to France or England, each of which nations took a portion of it, had they discovered in it any gold, which, as the commodity most available for immediate use, and soonest adapted to the gratification of eager avarice, they chiefly sought, By Papal permission and decree, they claimed all America. But France resisted this claim, and labored to form there an empire of her own ; and Charlevoix, the historian of it, boasts its extent as " greater than all Europe," } although the proud Spaniard termed it " of nothing worth." This empire she exerted herself to establish and enlarge by all practicable means. Among these was the employment of a religious influence over the minds of the natives. Hence, in no inconsiderable degree, the efforts of her able, sagacious, indefatigable mission- aries, most if not all of whom were Jesuits, bound to an implicit obedience to their head, eager to extend to heathen nations the papal sway, which had suffered so much from Luther and the reformation, and expecting to merit everlasting life by their exertions and sacrifices in spread- ing the triumphs of their faith ; at the same time looking on the English as heretics, beyond the pale of the church, and so doomed to everlasting perdition. Religious bigotry, and hatred, and contempt were all combined, in their almost unmitigated hostility ; the full spirit of which seemed imparted to their native converts, in addition to their own savage propensities and habits. Can we wonder, then, at the dread of Indian warfare that pervaded the frontier settle- ments of New England on the north ? It must, however, be observed, that if treachery and cunning marked the Indian, as sensible of his disadvantages in open warfare with his foes of European origin ; and breach of promise, and cruelty, and revenge, too often distinguished the Romanist, and led him also to Connive at and permit in his Indian subjects and allies atrocities at which Christian civilization shud- ders ; there was yet no disposition in the Puritans of New England to view with favor the character or conduct of a Papist. The very name was odious. Vermont, then, as a "thoroughfare" between nations of different origin, pursuits, and * See Hutchinson's Hist. Mass., &c. f Holmes's Amer. Annals, I. p. 531. J Hist, de la Nouv. France, 1. 1. p. 1. $ The import of the name " Canada." STATES AND TERRITORIES. VERMONT. 147 interests, attractive as it was from its fertility and adaptedness to the purposes of agriculture and grazing, could not be occupied by peaceful farmers while the surrounding populations were struggling for mastery. Nor did the impediments end even here. The French, in ITSl^erected a fort on the eastern side of Lake Champlain, towards its southern extremity ; but they soon demolished it, and chose a position on the western side, where they built the celebrated fortress generally called Crown Point, although named by themselves Fort St. Frederic. Their object was, to facilitate their way to the Six Nations, whether for war or proselytism, and to their own possessions on the Mississippi beyond them, in order to environ ultimately the English colonists, and confine them to the Atlantic coast. The lake and its water communications were familiar to them, therefore, and highly valued. But on the land, it would seem, they had not leisure to make permanent settlements ; nor, perhaps, any present inducement, at such distance from their capital, and under other circumstances of the case. Meanwhile, as the lands of Connecticut and Massachusetts became occupied by the posterity of the first settlers, new fields of labor were sought. Applications were therefore made to the government of the latter state, by several of its inhabitants, who associated for the purpose, and a grant was made them to the northward of Fort Duinmer, and on the eastern side of Connecticut River. This was in 1735, and the settlement took the name of No. 4, afterwards called Charlestown. But not ten years elapsed before war was again rife between England and France ; and in 1746 this settlement was attacked by Canadian Indians,* and, for the time, ruined. Nevertheless, the spirit of the early settlers was unbroken. They re- turned, built again, cultivated their lands afresh, although with their Aveapons beside them : were again and again attacked, waylaid, several of them made captives and sold in Canada ; and thus persevered, with unabated zeal and bravery, through all their severe trials, until their efforts were, in the good providence of the God of their fathers, crowned with success. It is almost impracticable, in these times of ease and security, to appreciate justly the hard- ships undergone by those who " made the wilderness to smile and blossom." Especially may this remark be made in reference to Vermont, although applicable far more extensively. But, added to the hardships attending the subduing of the soil, and to " the sword of the wilderness," in the " peril " of which they often " gat their bread," the disputes concerning titles to the land itself, to which we have before alluded, occasioned peculiar trouble. The boundarjr line between Massachusetts and New Hampshire was not settled until March 5, 1740, when it was established by George II., to whom applications had been made for that purpose, in the manner in which it has since been preserved, and n<4w exists.f On the estab- lishment of this line, it appeared but reasonable to all parties that New Hampshire should extend on the west as Massachusetts extended in that quarter ; and hence her claim to the lands west of the Connecticut, and north of the Massachusetts line. Grants were therefore made by the governor of New Hampshire without scruple, and as the courage or necessities of settlers might prompt their applications. In this manner the territory of Bennington was granted, in 1749, and other grants followed. Again, however, war intervened ; and, from 1754 until the final conquest of Canada by the British arms, in 1760, it raged with various success, but with great sacrifices and sufferings on the part of frontier settlers, exposed as they necessarily were, and furnishing no small number of the provincial troops. The return of peace brought with its blessing still another trouble, in the claims that arose from a new quarter. The State of New York, settled, as we have seen, by the Dutch, a few years after | the French had planted themselves in Canada, had indeed long since passed under the dominion of England, being finally subdued in 1664. But the Dutch had made a small * See its interesting history in the Collections made by Farmer and Moore, &c. t See Belknap's N. H., Hutchinson's Mass., and Williams's Hist. Vermont, 2d ed. J That is, in 1609, at the commencement of their twelve years', truce with Spain, which opened again the way to foreign enterprise. The year 1604 is fixed, by Ckarlevoix and others, as the time when the Sieur de Monts and Samuel Champlain completed the discovery of Canada, and took possession of the country for Henry IV. of France, almost a century after the first knowledge of it claimed by the French. 148 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. settlement for trading with the nations on the Connecticut, and, for a considerable period, stoutly disputed the possession with the settlers from the jurisdictions of both Plymouth and Massachusetts^ Indeed, they seem to have honestly purchased from the natives a right to the soil, with as much scrupulousness as the very Puritans at the east of them. Their claim, of a nature like that of the English, was made to extend, says Dunlap,f " from Cape Cod to Delaware Bay, on the Atlantic, including the islands of the sea-coast ; the River St. Law- rence seems to have bounded it on the north; on the south, some undefined line beyond Delaware Bay ; and west, it was boundless." Afterwards, however, it was narrowed down to the territory west of the Fresh River, as they termed the Connecticut. Mention is made of their purchasing of the Indians the territory between this and the North River, and " twenty- one miles inland ; " and De Laet, one of their early historians, J dwells on the pleasantness and fertility of the country, visited after Hudson, by Adrian Block, in 1614. Until recently, however, we have had little knowledge concerning the voyages of the Dutch navigators. Honor is at length given, and justice done them, in the Collections of the New York Histori- cal Society. Without entering too minutely into details, in this place, it may be sufficient to remark that, notwithstanding it has been asserted by some, that as early as 1623 the Dutch built a fortress at the present site of Hartford, yet Trumbull states it to have been as late as 1633, only three years before Governor Haynes and Mr. Hooker led their little colony thither. Disputes there were, sharp and long continued, with respect to boundaries. The English confided in their royal charter, and the ability of their king to sustain it ; the Dutch in the liberty granted them by their high mightinesses the States General of Holland ; and nothing but the superiority of British power, which effected the conquest of New York, and gave to the " colony of New Netherlands " a character, laws, alliances, and interests wholly English, prevented the establishment of a Dutch republic on these western shores. And it admits of question, whether true candor has, in this country, been shown to the claims of the noble- spirited people who authorized and forwarded the founding of New Amsterdam, " at a time," said a worthy descendant from them, " when that nation [Holland] had just sprung into political existence, after a long, bloody, and most glorious struggle against civil and religious tyranny, during which all the energies of patriotism, courage, and talents had been suddenly and splendidly developed." || To be brief in this rapid review, a long period of silence on the subject of the Dutch claims, or the claims of New York, in reference to territory north of Massachusetts and west of Connecticut River, seems to have been maintained. This, perhaps, was owing to two considerations ; the one, that already more land was claimed and possessed than the inhabit- ants could occupy and cultivate ; and the other, that the northern frontier beyond Massachu- setts, open as it was to the invasion of the French and their Indian allies or subjects, presented no attractions to settlers. When, however, the establishment of peace removed the fears of savage outrage, and rendered the subduing of the wilderness no longer a perilous enterprise, " the unsettled lands of the country acquired a new value, and were every where explored and sought after by speculators and adventurers. None appeared more inviting than the tract between Lake Champlain and Connecticut River. The soil was rich and fertile, favorable in many places to the production of grain, and in all to grazing and the raising of cattle. It was plentifully watered by streams and rivers, and abounded with necessary and useful timber. In such a soil and situation, the labor and hardships of a few years could scarcely fail of producing rich and valuable farms, with all the ease and independence naturally annexed to industry in the rural economy of life." H Application being made, as we have seen above, to the governor of New Hampshire, within * See Trumbull' s Connecticut, and Dunlap's Hist. N. Y. f Hist, of N. Y. vol. i. p. 9. J See N. Y. Hist. Coll. vol. i. pp. 92, 295. Hist, of Connecticut, vol. i. p. 21. || See Verplanck's Anniversary Discourse before the N. Y. Hist. Soc., 1818. f Dr. Williams, from whose account much of what immediately follows is abridged. STATES AND TERRITORIES. VERMONT. 149 whose territory this region was supposed to lie, he proceeded so far to issue grants, that in 1761 not less than sixty townships, of six miles square, were granted on the west of Connecticut River. In one or two years more, they amounted to one hundred and thirty-eight ; keeping twenty miles east of the Hudson, so far as that extended northward, and then advancing to the eastern shore of Lake Champlain ; thus enriching the governor, who, besides the fees and donations attending the business, reserved five hundred acres in each township for himself. This aroused New York. On the 28th of December, 1763, the lieutenant governor, Golden, issued a proclamation, in which he recited the grants made to the Duke of York by his brother, Charles II., asserted their validity, claimed the jurisdiction as far east as Connecticut River, and commanded the sheriff of Albany county to return the names of all persons who, under color of the New Hampshire grants, had taken possession of any lands west of the river. This proclamation Governor Wentworth met by another, dated March 13, 1764, in which he declared the grant to the Duke of York to be obsolete, and asserted that New Hampshire extended as far west as did Massachusetts and Connecticut, and that the grants made by New Hampshire would be confirmed, even should the jurisdiction be altered. He exhorted the settlers not to be intimidated, but to cultivate their lands with diligence ; and required the civil officers to exercise jurisdiction as far westward as grants had been made, and to punish all disturbers of the peace. Two authorities were now up, and a contest between them might be anticipated. The assurances of the New Hampshire governor tended to quiet the minds of the settlers ; but, on the part of New York, an express application was made to the crown. This stated on \diat authority is, however, disputed that the people were desirous to be included in that gov- ernment, and that, as the course of business must ever lie towards New York, it would be for the convenience and advantage of the people, who, however, publicly disowned the appli- cation afterwards, to be united to that province. Nevertheless, it prevailed ; and the king, on the 20th of July, .1764, ordered and declared "the western banks of the River Connecticut, from where it enters the province of the Massachusetts Bay, as far north as the forty-fifth degree of northern latitude, to be the boundary line between the said two provinces of New Hampshire and New York." Nothing appeared in this decision to alarm the people. Concluding that their title to the lands they had settled would be but confirmed by it, they had no idea of disputing the juris- diction of New York, or opposing its government. They supposed the words " to be " were designed to express the future, and not to refer to the past. But not so did the New York government. " They construed it," says the historian, " as a declaration not only of what was to be for the time to come, but of what was, and always had been, the eastern limit of New York ; and, of consequence, that the grants which had been made by the governor of New Hampshire were grants of what had always belonged to New York, and were therefore illegal, and of no authority." Letters had indeed passed between the governors of New Hampshire and New York, Wentworth and Clinton, concerning their respective boundaries, as early as 1750,* notwithstanding which the grants had still been issued ; and it is surprising to see the confidence with which, on both sides, the claims were pressed. The late eminent Chancellor Kent,f writing of the dispute, as it was in 1777, says, " The inhabitants of the north- east part of the state, (now Vermont,) which had been represented in the convention under the names of the counties of Cumberland and Gloucester, renounced their allegiance, and set up for an independent state. On the 30th of June, in that year, they were knocking at the door of Congress for a recognition of their independence, and an admission into the Union." On the other hand, Dr. Williams, speaking of the New York claim under the grant to King James, says, " There were no principles, which apply to human affairs, by which this grant would bear a strict examination." He terms it " a blundering transaction," and says that the geographical " bounds of it were contradictory, indefinite, and impossible." * Belknap's Hist. New Hampshire, p. 323, F. and M.'s ed. f Address to the N. Y. Hist. Soc., 1828. See also Ditnlap, Hist. New York. 150 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. The time, however, came for enforcing authority; and the government of New York required the settlers to surrender the charters they had received from New Hampshire, and take out new grants from New York, attended with great fees and expense. Some settlers complied, and bought their lands a second time ; while others absolutely refused. Actions of ejectment followed, commenced in the courts of the new counties which had been formed , and these were decided there in favor of New York. Great profits accrued to its rulers from these measures, for the amount of them was far higher than the original cost of the titles from New Hampshire. But opposition was made in cases where ejectment by official authority was attempted ; and the settlers, " instead of being depressed into submission, seemed to derive new powers from oppression; and the people," says Dr. Williams, "soon began to associate, to defend one another in their opposition to the courts and officers of ]Jew York." Ten years of litigation and of occasional violence followed, of which it is remarked by Belknap, " that although [the dispute] was carried on with a degree of virulence unfriendly to the progress of civilization and humanity, within the disputed territory, yet it called into action a spirit of vigorous self- defence, and hardy enterprise, which prepared the nerves of that people for encountering the dangers of a revolution more extensive and beneficial." Among the hardy, resolute, and brave men whom these difficulties were now nurturing, few became more distinguished than Seth Warner and Ethan Allen. Scenes of the revolutionary struggle were fast developing the character of our countrymen. One and another aggression of the British ministry, intent on carrying their favorite point, the civil subjection of the colo- nies, was provoking the opposition, not of the New England colonies alone, but others along the Atlantic border. The successful resistance to the stamp act of 1765, and which pro- duced its welcome repeal, became an encouragement to the friends of liberty, who, in various ways, evinced their determination to m|ke their value and consequence known and felt by the mother country. Of these a better appreciation was indeed made in that quarter than had heretofore been entertained. But still the progress of events conducted to an open rupture, on the special history of which it is not our object here to enlarge. Suffice it to say, that the territory now included in Vermont was very peculiarly exposed, and the situation of its inhabit- ants in many respects very singular. It would, in fact, be difficult to produce a parallel to the anomalous state of these settlers Their improvements, made on the lands they had purchased, were effected at imminent peril Their titles to the lands themselves had been honestly acquired on their part, but were dis- puted by contending governments, which yet exercised over them no effectual authority,* and the total loss of them hazarded. To neither of these governments could they appeal without slighting the other ; nor, consistently with their own interest, and duty to their families, sub- mit to either. They felt, therefore, constrained to temporize ; and while, with the rest of their brethren, they entered, as individually called by an imperious sense of duty, into the scenes of the revolution, they were nevertheless not unmindful of the peculiarities of their own case. But it is not to be supposed, as it surely will not be by any true " Green Mountain Boy," or New Englander, that frontier settlers, coming out from such a state of society as had been constituted originally by the Pilgrim Fathers, and handed down from them, could consent to live without law, order, or those social institutions on which order and law depend. No ! The towns, small and exposed as they might be, and struggling, as inevitably they must, with the hardships incident to settlements in the wilderness, cannot thrive without government ; and they who are, at least for a season, beyond reach of the laws that govern the larger commu- nities, from which they are providentially separated, become " a law unto themselves." They have their town meetings ; they decide on the qualifications of voters in them ; they choose their moderator, their town clerk, their selectmen, to manage the affairs of their little, but, to themselves and their families, all-important community. The school and the school committee, * Although four counties had been nominally organized by New York, two on each side of the Green Mountains. STATES AND TERRITORIES. VERMONT. 151 the church and its pastor, the constable and the justice of the peace, must all be included.* The citizen of New England, place him where you will, whether in the Old Colony or Califor- nia, in Vermont or Iowa, cannot feel contented or happy until these are all provided for the civic association of which God, m his providence, has made him a member ; and thanks be to God that a clear, sober view of the real wants and true interest of society forces this just appre- ciation on so many energetic minds ! Still there were many, doubtless, who entered the wilderness of Vermont, as they have other regions of frontier exposure and peril, without having previously imbibed a " love of things that are excellent " men of rude passions, uneasy temperaments, reckless of rule or resolved to resist it, lawless, selfish, and overbearing. Such are found in all ages and countries. But the progress to social order either shakes them off, or humanizes them, or neutralizes, in time, their baleful influence. The state of society and the emergency of their times have often in our country produced individuals of that class which we are early led to admire in the histories of ancient Greece and Rome men who become eminent, not for the possession and cultivation of a single talent, only, but for the development of the various powers bestowed on human nature, in their several fair proportions, as the necessities of their condition may demand. Such, in New Hampshire, was Meshech Weare ; in Massachusetts, Elisha Williams, characterized so justly and beau- tifully by Doddridge ; f Ashmun also, of whom one of the " favored of the Muses " J writes that he was " A leader when the blast of ruthless war swept by, A teacher when the storm was past, and guide to worlds on high." And the circumstances which called forth the vigor and courage of Warner and Allen, whose " names only have been mentioned here, but on whose history we cannot dwell, brought into active and beneficial exercise the talents and virtues of Thomas Chittenden, who, though enjoying in early life but few advantages of education, shone, nevertheless, under the require- ments of his trying times and high office, and has left a name which posterity cannot but honor, as his contemporaries revered and loved it. The anomalous condition of the settlers, to which allusion has been made, requires a further description. They had represented their case to the throne as early as 1764 ; and, in 1767, an inhibition was issued to the governor of New York, who was required to desist from making any further grants until the royal will should be made known, " upon pain of his majesty's highest displeasure." This notwithstanding, grants were made, and resisted ; and a series of altercations excited so greatly the animosity of the opposite parties, that a civil war must have been the issue, had not the events which occurred at Lexington and Concord, in 1775, arrested the attention of all, and fixed it on the interests of the whole country. The seizure of Ticonderoga by Colonel Allen and his associates, of Crown Point by Colo- nel Warner, and of Fort St. John by Arnold, soon gave to the American forces the command of Lake Champlain in its whole extent ; while the subsequent capture of Burgoyne, after the partial engagements of Hubbardton and Bennington, prevented any further fears, at least for a season, respecting the northern frontier. In the mean time, great want was felt of some well-defined government over the population formed on the " Grants." A Congress had been constituted of delegates from the greater part of the colonies, and held its first session in 1774. At its second meeting, the next year, a committee was sent on to Philadelphia to consult with its members. On their return, this committee, by issuing circulars and reporting the result of their mission, prepared the way for a convention of delegates from the several towns, which had now become accustomed for some time to act together for mutual defence. This convention met on the 16th of January, * These were, in fact, the principles on which the original grants from the New Hampshire govern- ment were constructed. See the copy of one in Thompson's Hist, of Vermont, 2d part, p. 224. f Quoted by Dr. Allen, in his Am. Biogr. and Hist. Diet. J Mrs. Sigourney, id. 152 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. 1776, and presented its petition to Congress ; but this was subsequently withdrawn, in con- sequence of a recommendation to submit for the present to New York ; and finally, after other preparatory steps, the territory was declared, January 15, 1777, a free and independent state, assuming the picturesque name of Vermont. This important measure was taken with great firmness, moderation, and unanimity. Yet it was followed, as under existing circumstances might have been anticipated, by opposition on the part of New York, petitioning the Congress not to acknowledge the act ; and on the part of New Hampshire, claiming several of the towns which had embodied themselves in the new state. Nor was it until after a variety of changes, and much negotiation, of which the details might fill a volume,* that these external concerns were adjusted, and Vermont became an integral part of the new American Union. That happy event took place, after a satisfactory settlement of all disputes with the states both of New Hampshire and New York, March 4, 1791. The general history of the state since is blended with that of the nation. Under all their difficulties and embarrassments, in the adjustment of land titles, the subduing of the wilderness, the arrangement of their political concerns, and the horrors of warfare, the inhabitants had not neglected the claims of religion and good learning. The settlement of the ministry in the small towns, as they were successively formed and grew able to sustain it, was followed up with a good degree of zeal and perseverance. The condition of society seemed to require, and effectually obtained, a free toleration of religious sentiments, with no distinction in the claims of sect or denomination. An entire sundering of bonds between the church and the state was accomplished, and the result has seemed to show that then the religion of the gospel flourished best, when left to its own heavenly resources, and the zealous love and efforts of its sincere friends ; human laws being only then appealed to, when infrac- tions of special civil compacts rendered such appeal needful. Hence absolute contracts for the support of the ministry can be exacted by law, but the law does not compel any to form such contracts.! Revivals of the power of religion have not been unusual. Nearly 20,000 communicants were found in June, 1848, connected with the 189 churches embodied in the " General Convention of Congregational Ministers and Churches," which then held its session at Brandon4 And the statistics of other denominations, which are found in this state, as in the rest of New England, bear comparison with this result. For the cause of education Vermont has done nobly ; and she deserves the high honor of being ranked among the few governments that have wisely discerned and followed out with energy the permanent welfare of those who sustain them. The school system of the other New England states has been introduced into Vermont, where upwards of 2400 district schools are maintained by a local tax levied by the inhabitants on themselves, and attended by upwards of 50,000 pupils being a sixth part of the whole number of inhabitants ; and besides these schools, the state has from time to time' chartered a large number of academies ; several of which, however, have since ceased to exist, while several among them are sustained by different religious denominations and private bene- factions. To crown this system, Vermont has a " State University " at Burlington, now in a flourishing condition, and a college at Middlebury, possessing at least equal advantages. Both are high in public favor ; the latter being attended by about 100 pupils, the former by 70. There is also a medical college. Medical societies, and societies for benevolent purposes, have been greatly multiplied in the state. Its agriculture, manufactures, and, by means of Lake Champlain, its navigation also, have been encouraged, developed, and become greatly successful. As yet, no state survey * See, however, for the particulars, either Dr. Williams' s History, or the clear though brief exhibition of all these transactions, consecutively, in Thompson's Vermont, Part II. f See Graham's Sketches. J See the Minutes of that Convention, printed at "Windsor, where is established ils Religious Journal. The first newspaper in the state was published in STATES AND TERRITORIES. VIRGINIA. 153 of its geology has been completed ; but the progress of its railroads, so vigorously prosecuted, and promising such advantages in bringing the riches of the west to the sea-coast, will doubt- less make apparent also, at an early period, the worth of such a measure. In 1842 began the celeBVation of Forefathers' Day ;* and that whatever was commendable in their character and spirit may, under the blessing of their and our God, flourish in this now thriving state, is our hearty wish and prayer. VIRGINIA is the northernmost, save one, of that division of the United States usually denominated the Southern States. It lies between lat. 36 33' and 40 43' north, and extends from 75 25' to 83 40' of west longitude. Its length, from east to west, is 370*miles ; its greatest breadth 200 ; and its exact area is officially stated at 61,352 square miles, f It is bounded on the north by Pennsylvania ; on the north-east by the River Potomac, which sepa- rates it from Maryland ; on the east by the waters of Chesapeake Bay and the Atlantic Ocean : on the south by North Carolina and a part of Tennessee ; on the west by Kentucky ; and on the north-west by Ohio. Having been the seat of the earliest English settlement permanently established in North America, Virginia ranks as the eldest, of the thirteen colonies originally compacted into the republic of the United States ; and is therefore worthy of the frequently-bestowed appellation of "the Old Dominion." The present name of the state was conferred by Sir Walter Raleigh, in compliment to the maiden queen, by whom, in 1584, he had been empowered " to search for remote heathen lands, not inhabited by Christian people," and to have and hold, in fee simple, all the soil within 200 leagues of any places which should become, within six years, the fixed residences of his companions, the crown reserving to itself one fifth part of all the precious metals that might be obtained. Under this authority, between the years 1584 and 1588, Sir Walter fitted out several vessels, the first two of which touched at an island on the coast of what is now North Carolina ; but of the number or fate of the adventurers there * Boston Recorder of January 12, 1849. t Some geographers give 220 miles as its extent from north to south, and estimate the area at 70,000 square miles. At the close of the American revolution, according to Mr. Jefferson, the bounda- ries of Virginia, commencing at the Atlantic Ocean, and reaching 758 miles to the River Mississippi, with an average breadth of about 223 miles, included an area of no less than 121,525 square miles, being " one third larger than the Islands of Great Britain and Ireland." 20 154 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. supposed to have been left, no satisfactory account has since appeared. The second fleet, consisting of seven " ships," landed 107 men upon the Island of Roanoke, in 1585. In the two following years, further supplies, amounting, respectively, to 50 and 150 men, were sent by Raleigh, accompanied by a governor and 12 assistants, with a charter of incorpora- tion. Though instructed to settle on Chesapeake Bay, they disembarked at a more southerly point ; and their subsequent destiny, like that of their predecessors, is involved in mystery. These attempts of Raleigh and his coadjutors to obtain a secure and solid foothold among the then hostile natives having successively failed, and the funds of the projector having suffered to the extent of 40,000 sterling, resort was had to the assistance of other capitalists. Accordingly, in 1589, Sir Walter transferred a portion of his interest in the grant from Queen Elizabeth to an association of merchants in London. A few additional adventurers were sent in the course of the two or three succeeding years. But in 1603, the attainder of Sir Walter Raleigh terminated his efforts and his anxieties in behalf of his favorite plan. In 1607, Sir Thomas Gates and others obtained a new grant from King James I. ; * which grant, in 1609, was superseded by letters patent of the same king, incorporating the Earl of Salisbury and his associates as " the Treasurer and Company of Adventurers and Planters of the City of London, for the first Colony of Virginia." The most ample powers in the premises were hereby conferred, and were even, three years afterwards, enlarged, by an additional grant of all the islands lying between the 30th and 41st degrees of north latitude, and within 300 leagues of the parts before granted. The fact of the merging of all former grants in that to the Earl of Salisbury is derived from statements of Mr. Jefferson. Other authorities make mention of two chartered compa- nies, to each of which was assigned an immense tract, called, respectively, South and North Virginia ; the former reaching from latitude 34 to 38 north, including the present compara- tively contracted area of the state; the latter f comprising the territory lying between the paral- lels of 41 and 45 north. Sir Francis Drake and Sir Richard Grenville appear to have been among those engaged in the unfortunate adventures under Raleigh's charter, prior to the commencement of the seventeenth century. The little band of 107 persons, who were ulti- mately successful in the attempt to colonize the new world, embarked from England in three small vessels, early in the year 1607. This expedition was commanded by Captain Christo- pher Newport, with whom were also associated the celebrated Captains John Smith and Bar- tholomew Gosnold. Their destination was the Island of Roanoke, previously visited by Raleigh's men, as above related ; but adverse weather drove them into Chesapeake Bay, whence they ascended James River some 50 miles to an eligible spot, where they took up their abode, naming it Jamestown, in honor of their reigning sovereign. This place, there- fore, though still of inconsiderable magnitude or importance, and greatly dilapidated, is entitled to the reputation of being the most ancient of the Anglo-American settlements ; and may be regarded, in a great degree, as the germ of that vast empire, which, after a lapse of less than two and a half centuries, has spread itself over, and brought within the pale of civilization, nearly a tithe of the habitable globe. It cannot be disguised that the first settlers of Virginia were actuated by motives of a nature somewhat more worldly than those which influenced their fellow-colonists of New England. The reported natural wonders of these new and strange regions, and the anticipated acquisition of immense treasures of gold and silver, were the predominant stimuli to their curiosity and their zeal. It seems not to have entered into their calculations, that they might be doomed to encounter innumerable trials, privations, and dangers ; or that their sufferings in the midst of an unmeasured wilderness, surrounded and beset by pitiless barbarians, would constitute the miserable and almost sole fruits of their too sanguine hopes. The early history of Virginia is replete with affecting and interesting events, embracing many remarkable and romantic incidents. The frequent collisions of the emigrants with the treacherous and preda- * It was under this grant that the first effectual settlement, at Jamestown, was made, f Subsequently named New England, by Prince Charles, (afterwards Charles I.,) 1614. STATES AND TERRITORIES. VIRGINIA. 155 tory hordes around them, gave rise to numerous memorable deeds of heroism and magnanim- ity, as well as to no less a number of acts of cruel oppression and sanguinary atrocity. On the one hand, although pillage, assassination, and every species of outrage signalized the course of the lawless savage, the conduct of the civilized settlers themselves towards their untamed neighbors was not always the most just, humane, or politic. After a few years of perseverance and endurance, however, the latter succeeded in establishing themselves as a permanent community, through the aid of several fortunate circumstances which occurred in the lifetime of Powhatan, the celebrated and powerful Indian chief. To his singularly acquired friendship, the colony was at one time mainly indebted for its exemption from total extermination. His daughter, Pocahontas, after her generous rescue of Captain Smith from imminent death, married a Mr. Rolfe, a respectable planter, subsequently went to England with her husband, where she was honored with marks of the highest consideration ; and thus a foundation was laid for the restoration of amity between the contending parties, which con- tinued, with a few sad interruptions, for a long period.* The curse of slavery, so lamentably entailed upon this otherwise favored region, and which, at the present remote date, is a source of bitter controversy, if not of incalculable danger to the whole American nation, originated with the landing of some twenty negroes from a Dutch vessel, and the selling of them into perpetual bondage, at about the time of the advent of the Plymouth " Pilgrims." This evil, which has since grown in magnitude and enormity to an extent scarcely reducible by human power, is a source of regret to the best portion of the people of Virginia, as well as one of angry remonstrance and censure on the part of many other members of the Union.f The original limits of Virginia nave, at various periods, and under divers circumstances, been materially circumscribed. In the early period of its colonial existence, its boundaries had never been accurately defined. It was an immense unexplored wilderness, to all appear- ance illimitable, especially on the north and west, and confined by no natural barrier then known to its new residents. As the population multiplied, and spread itself into the interior, and along the coast, to points remote from the seat of government, legislation upon local affairs became difficult, and the management of the general interests grew unwieldy. With this advance of civilization in every direction arose the necessity of forming new and distinct communities. Thus, from time to time, large portions of territory, with their inhabitants, were set off from the parent commonwealth, made independent of the latter, and endowed with the prerogative of establishing then* own constitutions and laws. Most of the circumjacent regions, since erected into states, were meant, in all probability, to be included in the patents primarily granted to the London Companies by James I. His successors, however, at different periods, subdivided the country, and established distinct colonies within its supposed origi- nal borders. The incipient principles of national freedom, the diffusion of which resulted in the American revolution, were as early recognized and inculcated in Virginia as in any of her sister colonies. * The massacre, in 1622, of 347 colonists, men, women, and children, through a stratagem of the cruel successor of Powhatan, was one of the most severe afflictions ever experienced by the colony. t Mr. Jefferson, in his "Notes on Virginia," (1781,) laments in strong terms the existence and in- crease of this "blot on our country," and ardently advocates a system of gradual emancipation. "During the regal government," he says, " we had at one time obtained a law which imposed such a duty on the importation of slaves as amounted nearly to a prohibition ; when one inconsiderate Assem- bly, placed under a peculiarity of circumstances, repealed the law. This repeal met a joyful sanction from the then sovereign, and no device, no expedient, which could ever afterwards be attempted by subsequent Assemblies, and they seldom met without attempting them, could succeed in getting the royal sanction to a renewal of the duty. In the very first session held under the republican govern- ment, the Assembly passed a law for the perpetual prohibition of the importation of slaves. This," he continues, " will in some measure stop the increase of this great political and moral evil, while the minds of our citizens may be ripening for a complete emancipation of human nature." Notes, Boston ed., 1832, p. 93. 156 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. When that momentous event took place, she furnished her full complement of patriots and warriors, participated largely in the toils, and conflicts, and sacrifices of "the time that tried men's souls," and in the consummation of the high purposes of that struggle, merited and received an ample share of its glorious fruits. Among the illustrious names that adorned her annals at this epoch, it may be sufficient to point to those of George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Patrick Henry, James Madison, and John Marshall. The names of these distin- guished men and their compatriots not only shine prominently upon the records of their renowned day and generation, but their effulgence will irradiate the nations of the earth, as a constellation of political light, commanding the homage of every friend of rational liberty in all coming time. The first constitution of Virginia, in which her people took part, was formed in 1776. The previous dismemberments of the state, under various British monarchs, whereby Maryland, Pennsylvania, and the Carolinas had been gradually detached, were never formally confirmed by the people of Virginia until the adoption of this civil compact. Although those acts of the royal government had frequently been subjects of remonstrance, it was deemed advisable now to acknowledge them, that there should arise in future no cause of dissension among the members of the new confederacy. The constitution thus framed, in a season of critical emer- gency, without the advantages of leisure, deliberation, and of experience, (being the first in the whole United States,) was naturally imperfect. It was soon found to be unequal in its operations ; and at the close of the war, much discussion arose upon divers projects for its improvement. It was not, however, essentially amended until 1830, when it underwent im- portant modifications. Its principal features are as follow : the governor is elected by joint vote of the two branches of the General Assembly ; his official term is three years, and he cannot be reflected for the next succeeding term ; he is assisted in his executive duties by three counsellors of state, the senior of whom, in office, acts as lieutenant governor ; the legis- lature comprises a Senate, consisting of 32 members, chosen for four years, (one fourth of whom are to retire each year,) and a House of Delegates, 134 in number, chosen annually by the people ; clergymen are excluded from participation in the civil government ; the judges are chosen by the legislature. The Assembly convenes at Richmond, the capital, annually, on the first Monday of December. Every white male, 21 years of age, and possessed of a freehold valued at $25, or being a housekeeper, or head of a family, and having paid taxes, is qualified to vote for state or other officers ; but subordinate officers, soldiers, marines, or seamen, in the national service, as well as paupers, and men convicted of infamous crimes, cannot exercise the right of suffrage. The manner of voting at all elections is the open or viva voce mode. Virginia is now divided into 119 counties. Its seat of government is the city of Richmond, and its greatest commercial port is Norfolk. There are many other cities and pouplous towns in the state, more particular descriptions of which will be found in their proper order in this rolume. Within even its present boundaries flow some of the finest rivers in America, the most important of which are the Potomac, Rappahannock, James, and Kanawha Rivers. It is also watered by the Ohio and its tributaries on the west. (See Rivers.) The surface of the state is greatly diversified ; insomuch that those familiar with its topography have consid- ered its soil and climate under several distinct zones or divisions. The eastern section is generally a low country, with a soil partly sandy and partly alluvial, abounding in swamps and unproductive tracts, and for the most part, especially towards the sea-coast and along the margins of rivers, noted for the prevalence of fatal epidemics during the season extending from August to October. From the head of the tide waters, the mountainous district com- mences. Here the soil becomes more fertile, and the climate more genial. Across this portion of the state stretch the widest bases of the stupendous Alleghanies "the spine of the country." Between the numerous ridges, into which this vast chain is riven, there lie extensive and beautiful valleys, presenting a soil of the richest quality, a salubrious and delightful climate, and the most picturesque and magnificent natural scenery. Beyond these lofty eminences lies a third section, extending to the Ohio River in one direction, and to the STATES AND TERRITOKIES. VIRGINIA. 157 Cumberland Mountains in another, commonly distinguished as West Virginia. This, too, is an elevated and broken region, less productive in general than the middle section, and less populous, but enjoying an atmosphere quite as healthy, and waters equally pure. The chief agricultural products of Virginia are wheat, Indian corn, and tobacco. Cotton is also cultivated considerably in the alluvial district contiguous to North Carolina ; and in other quarters, hemp and wool are among the chief staples. All the varieties of grain, vege- tables, and fruit, peculiar to the climate, are also raised ; and these in great abundance where due attention is paid to their culture. In mineral wealth, Virginia is sufficiently rich to divert much capital from employment upon the surface to the development of actual or supposed treasures lying beneath. Iron, lead, copper, gypsum, salt, anthracite and bituminous coals are among the most plentiful and profitable of the rewards of these efforts and researches ; although, in some localities, the more precious metals have become objects of inquiry ; and numerous explorations, particularly in pursuit of gold, have been undertaken, (some of them quite recently,) with different degrees of success. The manufactures of the state are confined principally, with some exceptions, to the preparation of its staples for market, or for domestic consumption. The capital invested in all the branches of this department of home industry amounts to several millions. For all its purposes of trade, the commercial facilities of Vir- ginia are ample. Its sea-coast and principal rivers afford many excellent harbors ; and its means of intercommunication, both natural and artificial, extending through all parts of the state, are well adapted to the convenience and requirements of the people. Much attention has latterly been paid to the improvement of river navigation, the construction of canals, railroads, &c. Among the remarkable natural phenomena existing in Virginia, besides its mountainous ridges, in some places singularly penetrated by noble rivers, are a number of mineral springs, cascades, caverns, and, above all, the celebrated structure in the county of Rockbridge, between the Blue Ridge and the North Mountain, called the Natural Bridge, and described by Mr. Jefferson, as " the most sublime of nature's works." * Many of the springs are so highly impregnated with salt, as to induce numbers of capitalists to enter into the manufacture of this article, and to erect salt works in various places ; at one of which, near Charleston, on the Great Kanawha River, about 3,000,000 bushels of salt are made annually. The medicinal springs of Virginia, to the waters of which many virtues have been ascribed, are much frequented by invalids. The extraordinary cascade in the county of Augusta, called the Fatting Spring, where the water descends perpendicularly, though in a comparatively small volume, from a height said to be 60 or 70 feet greater than that of the cataract of Niagara, is to the curious traveller an object of great interest and wonder. The sheet of water, only some 15 feet broad at the top, is divided in two or three places, at the commencement of the fall, by the rock over which it passes, but is nowhere else interrupted until it reaches the valley imme- diately below. So directly does the stream descend, that a person may pass dry-shod between the base of the rock and the bottom of the fall. Another extraordinary specimen of nature's * " It is on the ascent of a hill," says the author of the Notes on Virginia, " which seems to have been cloven through its length by some great convulsion. The fissure, just at the bridge, is by some admeasurements 270 feet deep, by others only 205. It is about 45 feet wide at the bottom, and 90 feet at the top ; this of course determines the length of the bridge, and its height from the water ; its breadth in the middle is about 60 feet, but more at the ends ; and the thickness of the mass, at the summit of the arch, about 40 feet. A part of this thickness is constituted by a coat of earth, which gives growth to many large trees. The residue, with the hill, on both sides, is one solid rock of lime- stone. The arch approaches the semi-elliptical form ; but the larger axis of the ellipsis, which would be the chord of the arch, is many times longer than the transverse. Though the sides of this bridge are provided in some parts with a parapet of fixed rocks, yet few men have resolution to walk to them, and look over into the abyss. You involuntarily fall on your hands and feet, creep to them, and peep over- If the view from the top be painful and intolerable, that from below is delightful in an equal extreme. It is impossible for the emotions arising from the sublime to be felt beyond what they are here ; so beautiful an arch, so elevated, so light, and springing, as it were, up to heaven ! The rapture of the spectator is really indescribable ! " p. 21. 158 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. handiwork is the wild and magnificent torrent at Harper's Ferry, formed by the tumultuous rushing of the waters of the Potomac and Shenandoah through a gorge in the Blue Ridge, where they meet, and after momentarily beating with tremendous power against the rugged and rocky sides of the mountain, pass rapidly away together on their journey to the oceaa Several very curious caverns are found in the hilly regions, the most noted of which are Madison's Cave, on the north side of the Blue Ridge ; another in Frederic county, near the North Mountain ; and the " Blowing Cave " in one of the ridges of the Cumberland Moun- tains. The former of these has been a subject of much speculation with all philosophical visitors. A hill, 200 feet in height, rises perpendicularly from the margin of a branch of the Shenandoah River ; one third of the way down from the summit, the cave opens, branches off in diverse directions, penetrates some 300 feet into the earth, and at two different points ter- minates in subterranean lakes of unmeasured dimensions. The roof is of solid limestone, 25 to 50 feet in height ; and, being in a constant state of exudation, the ceaseless dropping of its calculous tears forms, upon the floor and sides, a profusion of grotesque incrustations resembling pyramids and columns, gradually growing and changing in size and shape. Not the least interesting spots in Virginia are Mount Vernon, on the Potomac, and Monti- cello, in Albemarle county ; the former memorable as the long-loved home in life, and the chosen place of rest in death, of the illustrious Washington, and the latter as the splendid country seat of President Jefferson. No ostentatious memorials of those giant minds mark the abodes of their mortal remains. The tomb of the " father of his country " stands in a secluded copse at a short distance from the family mansion, in all the mournful and affecting dignity of unadorned simplicity. The spot of his nativity is designated in a like humble manner ; it is in a retired part of the county of Westmoreland, on a plantation now in ruins, where may be seen, inscribed upon a modest stone, this brief memento : " Here, on the llth of February, 1732, George Washington was born" Over the grave of Jefferson stands a simple granite obelisk, bearing, by his own direction, this concise epitaph : " Thomas Jefferson, author of the Declaration of Independence, and Founder of the University of Virginia" The subject of internal improvements has occupied a large share of the public attention. The state has a fund of $3,000,000, the income of which, exceeding $280,000, is applied, under direction of a board of public works, to the advancement of useful projects for facili- tating intercourse throughout the commonwealth. Among the most important of these under- takings is the construction of a series of canals and dams for the improvement and extension of the navigation of James, Kanawha, and New Rivers. Another great work is the Dismal Swamp Canal, 23 miles in length, whereby the waters of Chesapeake Bay are connected with those of Albemarle Sound. Sundry railroads, particularly in the eastern quarter of the state, "have recently been opened, the whole comprehending an extent of over 300 miles ; and others have been projected, or are already in course of construction. One line connects the Potomac with the Roanoke, passing through Petersburg, Richmond, and Fredericsburg ; and another, commencing at Portsmouth, near Norfolk, secures an easy inland communication between the same rivers, at a lower; point. There is also a railroad from Winchester to Harper's Ferry, where it meets the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. Considerations of state policy alone, perhaps, have prevented the organization of a system of universal education in Virginia. The subject, however, at the close of the revolution, engaged the earnest attention of some of the most sagacious minds. At that period, a revision of the civil code was in contemplation ; and, among others, Mr. Jefferson projected and advo- cated a plan for the general diffusion of knowledge among all classes of people, not, of course, including slaves. The system proposed was progressive, embracing instruction of every grade, from the simplest elementary up to the highest stage of classical and scientific acquirement. The poor were to be supplied, at the public charge, with all the advantages of the grammar schools ; and from these a certain number were to be annually selected, according to merit, for advancement to the collegiate institutions, supported also by the state. It would appear that this project, partial and limited though it was, as compared with the course pursued in New England, did not meet with the requisite amount of popular favor. Education had seldom. STATES AND TEKRITOKIES. VIRGINIA. 159 if ever, been made a subject of legislation or discussion under the colonial government. The plan of establishing free schools, common to all, was therefore novel, and in some degree incomprehensible, as well as repugnant to the greater portion of men of wealth. As a whole, it was deemed too liberal and Extensive. But, in 1796, that part of it which provided for elementary schools received the legislative sanction, although no measures were taken for carrying it into execution. In 1809, a fund " for the encouragement of learning" was established by law, to be derived from all fines, escheats, and forfeitures ; and this fund was augmented, in 1816, by the addition of a very large share of the claim on the general government for military services during the then recent war. In 1818, the income of this fund amounted to upwards of $50,000,* when the General Assembly set apart, as permanent annual appropriations, $15,000 for the maintenance of a university, and $45,000 for the education of the poor. Under this latter provision, the benefits of common schools were bestowed, with various degrees of suc- cess, upon large numbers of indigent children, who would otherwise, in all probability, have grown up in deplorable ignorance, vice, and misery .f A further extension of the system of primary schools wus authorized in 1820, at the dis- cretion of the school commissioners, founded, however, on the cooperation of the inhabitants of the several school districts, who are required to defray some three fifths of the additional cost, on condition of receiving the residue from the state fund. There are numerous academies, or rather private schools, throughout the commonwealth ; some of these are of a respectable rank, but they are designed chiefly for the children of those who can afford to dispense with the public bounty. Little or no attention was given to the education of females prior to the revolution ; but there have been established since that event a large number of academies and high schools, devoted exclusively to the instruction of that sex. Of the still higher orders of educational seminaries, the most eminent are the University of Virginia, founded by Mr. Jeffer- son, near Charlottesville ; the College of William and Mary, chartered by the English sovereigns of that name, in 1691," and erected by order of the Assembly at Williamsburg ; Washington College, at Lexington, incorporated in 1782, and largely endowed by General Washington : and Hampden Sidney College, in Prince Edward county, founded in 1774. There are also several theological institutions, of comparatively recent date, under the patronage, severally, of Episcopalians, Methodists, Presbyterians, and Baptists. The prevailing views upon the subject of religion are those held by almost every denomination of Christians in all other parts of the United States. In the early days of the colony, and during much of the subsequent time of its subjection to the sovereigns of Great Britain, the doctrines and discipline of the English church were those which generally predominated. But at the commencement of the American revolution, it was estimated that two thirds of the people had become dissenters ; and the operation of the previously severe laws on the subject of religions faith and forms of worship was chiefly repealed or suspended by acts of the General Assembly, in 1776. The utmost toleration has since been recognized and affirmed by the legislative adoption of a bill drawn by Mr. Jefferson, in 1785, " for establishing religious freedom." At the present time, the most numerous sects are the Baptists and Methodists ; next follow, in numerical order, the Presbyterians, Episcopalians, Lutherans, and Roman Catholics. There are also a few Unitarians, Friends, and Jews. The actual outstanding public debt of Virginia, in February, 1850, was $7,924,994-11, ex- ceeding by $545,539'!! the amount of productive property owned by the state ; but the total value of funds of all descriptions, held by the state, is estimated at $11,854,814. There were, in 1 848, six banks, with twenty-one branches, employing a capital of $10,283,633. Details of the value of exports and imports, with other statistics of the trade and commerce of the state, may be found in this work, under the appropriate heads. * It now amounts to nearly $90,000. f An able writer in the " London Quarterly Journal of Education," speaking of the operation of thjf law, as ascertained up to the year 1834, remarks thus : " It has already imparted the knowledge of reading and writing, with all their moral tendencies, probably to 50,000 human beings ; and, before many years, it will have conferred the same inestimable blessings on twice that number." 160 ' UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. In conclusion, it may be remarked, that no state of the American Union enjoys a more liberal share of natural advantages than has fallen to the lot of this favored commonwealth. Her central position, productive soil, vast mineral treasures, forests of valuable timber, navigable rivers, secure harbors, commodious ports, and a climate averaging a medium temperature, are among those signal blessings of its inhabitants that demand a corresponding return of gratitude to the Supreme Giver, and the widest diffusion of his bounties among such of his rational creatures as are entitled to " life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness." WISCONSIN (or OUISCOKSIN) was admitted by act of Congress, February 9, 1847, as an in- dependent state of the American Union. Portions of its original territory were settled by the French as early as 1670. It passed from French to British jurisdiction in 1763, and so remained until 1794. After being connected with, and successively disconnected from, the respective States of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, and Michigan, it was organized as a distinct ter- ritory of the United States in 1836. In 1838, it was further diminished in size by the separation from its present south-western border of what now forms the State of Iowa; and, in 1849, still further lessened, by setting off the remainder of the region lying west of the Mississippi, now known as Minesota Territory. Boundaries and Extent. The state, as now established, extends from the Illinois line, in latitude 42 3(X north, to latitude 45 2(X, and reaches from Lake Michigan on the east to the Mississippi River on the west. Its extreme length, measured angularly, from north-east to south-west, is about 380 miles ; its breadth, from east to west, varies from 150 to 200 miles ; and its estimated area, as officially returned, is 53,924 square miles. Government. Wisconsin is at present subdivided into 29 counties. The state government is vested in a governor, lieutenant governor, Senate, and House of Representatives, the latter to consist of not less than 60, nor more than 120 members ; the number of senators not to ex- ceed one third, nor be less than one fourth, of the number of representatives. The latter arc elected by the people, annually ; the senators and executive officers biennially. The annual sessions of the legislature commence on the second Thursday of January. All white male citizens, Indians recognized as citizens by any United States law, and civilized persons of Indian blood, not members of any tribe, are legal voters after a residence of one year within the state. Judiciary. The judiciary power ie vested in a Supreme Court, Circuit Court, County Courts, STATES AND TERRITORIES. WISCONSIN. 161 and justices of the peace. The Supreme Court is composed of at least four of the six judges of the Circuit Courts. Prior to the formation of the state government, the Supreme Court con- sisted of a chief justice and two associate justices. There are now five of the latter. During the continuance of the territorial organization, (some fourteen years,) Charles Dunn, of Elk Grove, held the office of chief justice : under the present state government, this office is held by Alexander H. Stow, of Taycheedah. The judges are elected by the people, each for the term of six years. Education. The subject of education has received, as might be expected from the charac- ter and origin of the settlers, a due measure of attention. Ample provision has been made by law for the establishment of a college ; and corresponding means have been set aside in every township for the support of common schools, all by dint of bountiful grants of land. The value of the school fund thus created is estimated at $2,780,912. Annual proceeds $60,000. Finances. The state has as yet incurred no public debt. Surface, Soil, fyc. In its external features, this state exhibits considerable variety. The northern part having never been fully explored, excepting by traders and trappers, is conse- quently but little known. It is, however, represented as a rugged and mountainous wilderness, though frequently presenting large tracts of extraordinary fertility, and watered by numerous broad and rapid streams. The surface, in the southern part, consists mostly of prairie land, well timbered along the river sides ; in the central part of the state, the face of the country is more diversified. The rough and hilly tracts at the north produce the white pine in great abundance. The entire region is bountifully supplied with navigable streams, by which it is penetrated in all directions ; and although on its eastern border it has a lake coast of some 200 miles, very few safe or commodious harbors exist in that quarter. The soil is generally of an exceLent quality, and varies from one to ten feet in depth. It is especially productive on the margins of the Mississippi and Wisconsin Rivers, where also are found extensive forests of ponderous timber ; and the land throughout the state, so far as it has been surveyed, proves to be admirably adapted to agricultural purposes, particularly to the growth of corn and wheat Indeed, every species of vegetable suited to the climate can be cultivated with perfect suc- cess ; and multitudes of cattle may find ample pasturage upon the rich and almost boundless prairies. Rivers. Its principal rivers, besides the great Mississippi, which flows along the western limits of the state, are the Wisconsin, a branch of the former, 500 miles in length ; the Chip- peway, a noble stream, emptying into the Mississippi north of the Wisconsin : Rock River, taking its rise within, and running partly through, the state ; and Fox River, the proximity of which to the Wisconsin often causes an inundation of the intervening lands. There are like- wise numerous lakes and ponds, some of great magnitude, in the northern section. Lake Winnebago, which connects with Green Bay, a branch of Lake Michigan, is 24 miles in length by 10 in width. Internal Improvements. Numerous internal improvements are in progress. The most im- portant yet undertaken is that for improving the navigation of Wisconsin and Fox Rivera. This work is prosecuted by authority of Congress, half a million acres of the public lands having been appropriated for the purpose. Steamboat navigation between Lake Michigan, via Green Bay and the Mississippi, is secured by the improvement of Fox River, and the com- pletion of a canal to Lake Winnebago. A railroad connects Milwaukie with the Mississippi ; and convenient plank roads run into the interior from many places on the lake. By reason of its contact with Lake Michigan and the waters thereto adjacent, together with its extensive means of inland navigation, Wisconsin enjoys great commercial facilities. On the margin of the above lake lies Milwaukie, the most thriving and populous town in the state, which has sprung into being and importance, almost magically, within a very few years, and has rapidly become the centre of a vast amount of trade. Possessing the best harbor between Green Bay and Chicago, it is the chosen resort of most of the steamers from Buffalo and other ports on Lake Erie, thus commanding a controlling interest in the entire business of the state. Madison, the capital, is situated on a beautiful elevation, midway between Lake Michigan and 21 162 UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. the Mississippi, with both of which it has direct communication by means of a series of streams on either side. Minerals. In mineral resources Wisconsin is peculiarly opulent. The south-western por- tion abounds with lead and copper ores. The lead mines, in particular, are noted for being the most productive in the United States ; and many millions of pounds of this metal are annually extracted, wrought into proper form, and exported. Vast quantities of copper, also, are being constantly exhumed and sent to market ; and in iron ore the country is not less pro- lific. Much interest in the mineral products of this state has for some time been manifested, and is still actively exercised among enterprising capitalists in the neighboring states. Manufactures. Besides the smelting of ores, the business of manufacturing, in Wisconsin, is as yet inconsiderable ; the greatest amount of capital invested in any one branch of public industry has been employed in the mining of lead, and preparing it for exportation. Climate. In the upper or northern part of the state, the winters are frequently severe, occasioned probably by the proximity of Lake Superior, which lies on the north and north- west. The summers, however, are temperate and pleasant. The winter is much more mild in the southern quarter, where the climate throughout the year is salubrious, and not unlike that of the northern portion of Missouri. Indians. A large portion of the northern section of the state is still peopled by various Indian tribes, several of which are in a state of semi-civilization. Some of the tribes, espe- cially the Winnebagoes, have long refused to recognize the treaty ceding their lands to the United States, and continue to resist all attempts to remove them to their allotted country beyond the Mississippi. Population. The population of Wisconsin has multiplied prodigiously since the year 1830, when it numbered but about 4000. In 1847, it had reached over 200,000 ; and the cen- sus of 1850 states it at 305,191, including 626 free colored persons. UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. STATISTICAL TABLES. 163 cDo I = OOCOSCOOO5OOT^O5OO'CCO C<)OOW5CCCO COCOi ICOOi-HOSCO OS-^'OOOOSi-HCOi-HOOOO O 00 5 O CO O3 i i t^ 1C OS " l-*COC5 *ocot^ooco C I i 1 . * Mf-Ht>. eoeN ^io o cq IQ -H 05COCO 05--I O . IQ r-l SO , O O> ^-^lOOllOCD'Mt^QOO rH CO CO "* IO ^ O GCOCOOOUTiOlM i 1 i 'OiCOCOCiCOCOCOOOi 1> It lOt~-Ot^-O5QO * r* * c$ - co'-*' c^r-Tco'o"*'t^c-H l-C CO l-l rH <>c<)O-ocsoscoco cTop^o'-*'>c"o-^'co < io >i * 1 cs'i-H' C5 * r-H i-H . .1C r-l CO 00 o co" o" c-OU7>oO O COOOt^OGiOOO O . OO 3 OJ co-'*i-io > coc<-*jco t t-~TtCOi-li-lCO OOCOi-t lT*i ('O WS COOi IOt^- .1^- r4rit5r*c us OC5t-OOOO> t~-i IO 'O5OCOOOO O l>.lOGO(Mi l'< i-tlOCO 05iOOOQOO-lt^Oit^ IQOOOO CO "* CO t. N CO i-H C CO t- 00 i-l OCO eOt^ GOt^lNCO! If lt^l>.COCOiOCO Os t^- i i co co ^ti ^ co co co" ^H" co" r-7 00 CO--lOSCOCXI.os>->ci-^Ttor-eoiooocxc-* 1 >o'Qo'oo' COOCOOOi-H OJC^i Irjl co" O ^COOI-^TjlT^OO^OM^CO^ o" li-Tio'oo'co'o'io'co'coc^ i-1 O t^ <*< CM i > i 1 CO CO i-l l OTtrt~rco > oTco'co'orTjru2'o!r COCOCOCOf lt^.iOOiO^ * CO t^ ^ i-H CO r-t r-i -2 " " UNITED STATES GAZETTEER. STATISTICAL TABLES. 165 OO.-I OOCO COOO OOOeo^ O' 1 O TH O O05OCOCO O O OOOO W5U3OO -COO5O c5-^co oc<>a) ^ co r-T 1 t-To t-T .06" CiOOCO -C^l 00 c-^O5 C-H'- I CO CO co" of ' ' ~ OOO OCO OOOOOOOOOOOOODO OOCOOO(NONOOOOO*OO t-'O'OCOO' iO5 v OC>'-HOOiOO(M' IO OOOO O O OOOO O O ^ ,O .O t^ n - i COOOOSOseOVOOS-^-^OOt^OCOtOrHcDl 0" CM" to r-T 1-7 T co" co TjT cf co" co" CM" rjT OO3OOOCMOSrHCSI CO CM OO rH 00 i IQ CM O t>- rj<3 cOCOCMrH co CM" os CM eo rH co co I-H os OS CM CO O rH * *! rj i 1 OS rH kQ OS i-H CM l K^ OS^ oT ^r ' os eo CM CO CO rH *O CO OS CO *$ CO CO CO CM* rH . . 00 O CO t^ . . ^ t o 00^ OOS CO^ OT * " i-TrH i-T OS ! CO rH of o" t>T 10" co" -fjT COCO. CO CM Tj< O r-T CM" co" r-co os o W5 OS CO CO ^ b . O CM c- co CO .00 CO I'o : n Foreign Vessels. OSCO OCO coco^ CO ~ T c^ oT oo" '. oo" CO O - (M Tf< C0_ < rH^ " O C CM t^ CM CO 00 CM CO O T* oco'io OS rH *>. CO OS 00 (N OrHCMCO-*M5COl^COOl CMCNCMCNJCMCMlMCMCMCM DESCRIPTIONS MOUNTAINS, VALLEYS, RIVERS, CREEKS, LAKES, CAPES, BAYS, HARBORS, ISLANDS, SOUNDS, &c. ABBREVIATIONS. As no uniform system of abbreviations for the names of the states and territories in the United States has hitherto been followed by any geographical writers, for the purpose of attaining greater ease and brevity of notation, we have in this work adopted the following, as best suited to this object ; and would respectfully recommend them as intelligible and convenient for general use. We use, in all cases, the first and last letters of the name, excepting where two are alike in this respect, as in Indiana and Iowa, and in the compound names, as in New York, South Carolina, &c. ALABAMA, AA. LOUISIANA, ARKANSAS, As. MAINE, CALIFORNIA, CA. MARYLAND, CONNECTICUT, CT. MASSACHUSETTS, DELAWARE, DE. MICHIGAN, DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, D. C. MINNESOTA, FLORIDA, FA. MISSISSIPPI, GEORGIA, GA. MISSOURI, ILLINOIS, Is. NEBRASKA, INDIANA, IA. NEW HAMPSHIRE, INDIAN TERRITORY, IN. TY. NEW JERSEY, IOWA, 10. NEW MEXICO, KENTUCKY, KY. NEW YORK, LA. ME. MD. Ms. MN. MA. Mi. Mo. NA. N. H. N. J. N. M. N. Y. NORTH CAROLINA, OHIO, OREGON, PENNSYLVANIA, RHODE ISLAND, SOUTH CAROLINA, TENNESSEE, TEXAS, UTAH, VERMONT, VIRGINIA, WISCONSIN, N.C. O. ON. PA. R. I. s.c. TE. Ts. UH. VT. VA. WN. Abbaye, Point, Houghton co., Mn., extends into Lake Superior, between Huron and Keewaiwona Bays. Abraham, Mount, Franklin co., Me., lies mostly in the town of Salem. Adams, Cape, is on the Pacific, at the mouth of the Columbia River. A sand bar, 5 miles across, extends from it to within a mile of Cape Disappointment, which is 7 miles distant in a N. W. direction. When the wind blows from the W., this sand bar is covered with dangerous breakers. The cape is low, and thinly wooded. July 18, 1841, the U. S. sloop of war Peacock, belonging to the exploring expedition, was stranded and lost within Cape Disappointment. Adams Creek, N. C., falls into Pamlico Sound, in Ion. 76 53' W., and lat. 34 55' N. Adams Point, Presque Isle co., Mn., projects into Lake Huron. Adams Point, On. Situated at the mouth of Columbia River, opposite Cape Disappointment. Adirondack Mountains, N. Y., lying S. W. of Lake Champlain. Some of the peaks of this group are nearly as high as the White Mountains in New Hampshire. Mount Marcy, the highest summit, is 5464 feet above tide water in the Hud- son. In these mountains this noble river takes its rise. There are five or six ranges of these mountains lying between Lake Champlain and Lake Ontario, and on the opposite side of Ontario, north of the Mohawk River. The chain which traverses Warren and Essex coun- ties seems to be the most elevated. Some of the ridges of this group have received local names, as the Kayaderosseras, on the W. of Lake George; the Highlands of Black River; the Hassencleaver Mountains, of Oneida co. ; and the central chain has been called Macomb's Mountains. From the early French inhabitants, they received the name of the Peruvian Mountains , in consequence of a belief then entertained that they possessed great mineral treasures. Little is known of the more northern portions of theso mountains. 168 MOUNTAINS, RIVERS, LAKES, &c. Adirondack River, N. Y., one of the head branches of the Hudson, rises in the Adirondack Mountains, in Essex co. It is about 20 miles in length, and passes through Lakes Henderson and Sanford, two small sheets of water surrounded by picturesque scenery, and immense beds of iron ore, and elevated 1900 feet above the Atlantic. Admiralty Inlet, On. An irregular body of water, extending S. from the Straits of Juan de Fuca, Agamenticns Mountain, Me., consists of three elevations, situated in the town of York, about 4 miles from the sea, and is a noted landmark for seamen. The highest summit is 673 feet above the ocean. It is said that St. Aspinquid died on this mountain in 1682, and that the Indians sac- rificed 6711 wild animals at his funeral. Agate Harbor, Houghton co., Mn. Situated on the N. coast of Keewaiwona Point, W. from Copper Harbor. Agnew River, As., rises in the E. part of Pulas- ki co., and flowing S. E., enters White River in Arkansas co. Aguila Creek, Ts., flows S-, and empties into Brazos River, between Nolands and Big Creeks. Ahmie River, Dodge co., Wn. A head branch of the W. fork of Rock River. Ahneepee River, Brown co., Wn. A small stream flowing S. E. into Lake Michigan. Aitkin JLafavMa. A small sheet of water ly- ing N. from Sandy Lake, with which it is connect- ed by an outlet. Akkik or Kettle River, Ma. and Wn. It rises in the W. part of La Pointe co., Wn., flows S. S. W. into Ma., and empties into the St. Louis River. Alabama River. This river is formed by the junction of the Coosa and the Tallapoosa, and flowing S. S. W., unites with the Tombigbee, 48 miles above Mobile Bay, and after the junction has the name of Mobile River. It is navigable at all seasons for vessels requiring 6 feet of water, from the junction, 60 miles, to Claiborne. From Claiborne, 150 miles, to the mouth of the Cahaw- ba, the river has 4 or 5 feet of water. From the mouth of the Cahawba to the junction of the Coosa and Tallapoosa, its head branches, the river affords, in all places, 3 feet of water. The river is subject to great changes by rising and falling. Alachua Savanna, Alachua co.. Fa., is a marshy plain, which is supposed to discharge its waters by an underground passage into Lake Orange. Alatamaha River and Sound, Ga. The river is formed by the union of the Ockmulgee and the Oconee. After the junction, the Alatamaha be- comes a large river, flowing with a gentle current upwards of 100 miles, and enters by several out- lets into Alatamaha Sound, 60 miles S. W. of Savannah, through which it passes into the At- lantic. This sound contains a number of beau- tiful islands. The Alatamaha is navigable on the Oconee branch, 300 miles from the ocean, for Doats of 300 tons, and for steamboats to Milledge- ville, and to an equal distance on the Ockmulgee branch. The bar at the mouth has 19 feet at low water. The whole length of the river to its source is about 500 miles. Albemarle Sound, N. C., is a large inlet from the sea, in the N. E. part of the state. It extends 60 miles from E. to W., and is from 4 to 1 5 miles wide. It receives the Chowan, Roanoke, and sev- eral smaller rivers. It communicates with Pam- lico Sound and the ocean by several narrow inlets, and with Chesapeake Bay by a canal through the Dismal Swamp. Albert Lake, Ma. Situated near the Sioux River, and W. from Lake Poinsett. Albert Lake., On., lies S. E. from Summer Lak* Albert Lea Lake, Iowa. This lake is situated on the N. border of the state, and is the source of Shell Rock Creek. Alden's Hill, Ms. Situated in the town of Mid- dleborough. Allegham/ or Appalachian Mountains reach from the Catskill Mountains, in the state of N. Y., their most elevated part, to Ga., forming a range of great length, and from 50 to 200 miles in breadth. The course of this great chain is nearly parallel with the Atlantic, and from 50 to 130 miles dis- tant from it, and consists of a number of parallel ridges, denominated the Blue Ridge, North Mountain, Jackson's Mountain, Laurel Moun- tain, Cumberland Mountains, &c. These moun- tains, for the most parr, are not over 2500 feet high, and they divide the waters which flow into the Atlantic on the E. from those which flow into the Mississippi and the lakes to the N. and W. These ridges are generally wooded to the top, and between the ridges are often valleys of fertile land, though the country among them is generally rocky and rough. They are composed of granite, gneiss, mica and clay slate, primitive limestone, &c. Alleqhany River. The head branches of this river water Potter co., Pa. It then enters N. Y. in the S. E. part of Cattaraugus co., through which it runs 45 miles in a circuitous course, after which it ree'nters Pa., and unites with the Monon- gahela to form the Ohio, at Pittsburg. The river is navigable, for boats of small draught of water, from the village of Olean, Cattaraugus co., to its entrance into the Ohio, a distance of 230 miles. Its entire length is 300 miles. Allemande, Lake, La., lies S. from the Missis- sippi River, and N. W. from Lake Washa, into Hvhich it discharges its waters. Allen's Creek, an important mill stream, rises in Wyoming co., N. Y., flows through the E. part of Genesee into Monroe co., in the S. part of which it enters Genesee River. Allen's Point, Vt, is the southern extremity of Grand Isle, in the township of South Hero, and takes its name from one of the early settlers. Alliguash River, Piscataquis co., Me., is fed by a great number of small ponds, flows in a N. direc- tion, and empties into the St. John's River. Alligator River, N. C. This river rises in a lake of the same name, in Hyde, flows N. N. E., and empties into Albemarle Sound. Alloway's Creek rises in Salem co., N. J., and falls into the Delaware River, 6 miles S. of Salem. It is 20 miles long, and navigable 12 miles for boats. Alluvial Way, or Ridge Road, N. Y. This cu- rious formation of nature extends from the Gen- esee River, near Rochester, to the Niagara River, near Lewiston, a distance of about 80 miles, is of considerable height, and about 8 rods in width. It is composed of sand and gravel stones, and is supposed by many to have once been the shores of Lake Ontario, from which it is now dis- tant about 10 miles. Almirante River, Fa., falls into Pensacola Bay. Altoyac Creek, Ts., flows in a southerly direc- tion, and empties into Angelina River. Alum Creek, O., is the W. branch of the Big IN THE UNITED STATES. 169 "Walnut River, which it enters in the S. E. part of Franklin co., after a course of about 35 miles. A him Pond Hill, Ms. Situated in the town of Douglas. Height 778 feet. Amelia Island. Nassau CO., Fa., is situated in the N. E. part of the state. It is 15 miles long and 4 wide. Fernandina, a town at the N. W. end, was once the capital of the county, and a flourish- ing place. The land is fertile. Amite River rises in Mi., and, flowing S. into La., unites with the Ibberville at Galveston, to which it is navigable, and after a course of 100 miles, falls into Lake Maurepas. Amonoosuck Rivers, Upper and Loiver, N. H. The upper river rises N. of the White Mountains, and passing N. E. into Dummer, approaches to within a few miles of the Androscoggin ; thence it turns to the S. W., and empties into the Connecti- cut, at Northumberland, after a course of about 50 miles. Its valley, which is of great beauty, extends more than 20 miles in length, and 7 or 8 miles in breadth. The lower river rises on the W. side of the White Mountains, and falls into the Connecti- cut, just above Haverhill, after a course of 50 miles. Two miles from its mouth it receives the Wild Am- onoosuck, a swift, rapid stream about 40 yards in width. The waters of the Amonoosuck are pure, and its current quick. The valley of the lower river is about half a mile in width, and was probably once the bed of a lake. About 6 miles from the Notch of the White Mountains, the river falls 50 feet over a mass of stratified granite. Anastasia Island, Fa., is situated on the E. coast. It is 18 miles long and about 1^ broad. A signal tower on its N. end is in 29 50' N. lat.. 4 29' W. Ion. from Washington. Andote Keys, Fa. These islands lie off the coast of Benton co., S. from Helley's Keys. Ancram, or Roelojf Jansen's Creek, N. Y. This small mill stream rises in Hillsdale, Columbia co., and after a circuitous course enters the Hudson 8 miles below the city of Hudson. Anderson's River, Ky. It falls into the Ohio, 52 miles above Green River. Anderson's Creek, la., rises in the W. part of Crawford co., flows S. S. W., separating Spen- cer and Perry counties, and falls into the Ohio River. Androscoggin or Ameriscoggin River, Me. The Margallavay, its N. branch, receives Dead and Diamond Rivers, in N. H., and unites with the stream flowing from Umbagog Lake, about a mile from its outlet. The river then pursues a S. course until it approaches the White Mountains, and receiving several considerable tributaries, it passes into Me. N. of Mount Moriah. It then flows E. and S. E. through a fertile country, nearly to the sea-coast, and turning N., flows over the falls at Brunswick, near Bowdoin College, into Merrymeeting Bay, uniting with the Kennebec, 20 miles from the sea. Angelica Creek, Alleghany co., N. Y., rises in the town of West Almond, flows W. through the town of Angelica, where it enters the Genesee. Angelina River, Ts., flows in a S. S. E. direction, and empties into Neches River. Ann, Cape, Ms. See Gloucester. Annemesic River, Somerset co., Md., rises in the E. part of the county, and flows a little S. of W. into Tangier Sound. Anno Nuevo Point, Co.., extends into the Pacific at the town of Santa Crux, and N. from Point Pinos. 22 Antelope Creek, Ca. A small E. branch of the Rio Sacramento. Antelope Island, Uh. A large island lying in the S. part of the Great Salt Lake. Anthony's Nose, or, as more commonly called, the NOSE, is situated in the W. part of Mont- gomery co., N. Y., on the N. branch of Mohawk River, and is on the extremity of the hill or moun- tain called the " Klips." It slopes towards the river from an elevation of about 500 feet, bearing a great resemblance to a nose some 300 or 400 feet long. Anthony's or St. Anthony's Nose, N. Y., projects from the S. side of Breakneck Hill, in the town of Phillipstown, on the E. bank of the Hudson. It derives its name from a resemblance to a huge human face, as seen from the river, at the N. en- trance of the Highlands. There is another pro- jection of the same name, but less remarkable, opposite the site of old Fort Montgomery, near the S. entrance of the Highlands, below West Point. Antietam Creek rises in Washington co., Md., and empties into the Potomac. Antoine Creek, As., one of the head branches of the Little Missouri River, and the boundary line between. Clark and Pike counties. Apostles' Islands, La Pointe co., Wn. Situated in the W. part of Lake Superior, N. from Chego- wawegon Bay. Appalachee Bay is a large bay on the coast of Fa., in the Gulf of Mexico. Through this bay is a passage 10 feet deep, which is gradually re- duced to 8, by which St. Marks is reached. It furnishes the best anchorage ground along the coast for the distance of 230 miles. Appalachian Mountains. See Alleghany Moun- tains. Appalachicola River, Bay, and St. George's Sound. The river is formed by the union of Chattahoochee and Flint Rivers, which unite in the state of Ga. in lat. 30 42' N., from which K proceeds S. 70 miles, to St. George's Sound, and thence to the Gulf of Mexico. Near the mouth of the river it forms a broad estuary, denomi- nated Appalachicola Bay, which connects with St. George's Sound. The latter is partly enclosed by three islands, and is 50 miles in length, and from 4 to 9 wide. Between the islands are three passages into the sound, which have a depth of about 1 5 feet of water at low tide. The river is navigable for small vessels to the junction of the Chattahoochee and Flint Rivers. The Chatta- hoochee, the largest branch, is navigable for boats nearly 400 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. The whole surface drained by the Appalachicola and its branches is estimated at a little less than 20,000 square miles. Apple River, Is., crosses the N. W. part of the state, passes through Jo Daviess co., and after a course of 45 miles, falls into the Mississippi, 20 miles below Galena. It is 50 yards wide at its mouth. It is a rocky and rapid stream, furnish- ing many good mill seats. Apple Creek, Mo., runs on the boundary be- tween Perry and Cape Girardeau co., and falls into the Mississippi at Birmingham. Apple River, St. Croix co., Wn. It flows S. W. into the St. Croix River. Appletree River, S. C. A small branch of the Keowe. Appomattox River, Va. It rises in Prince Ed- ward co., and after flowing E. 120 miles, unites with James River at City Point. It is navigable 170 MOUNTAINS, RIVERS, LAKES, &c., for vessels of 100 tons to the falls at Petersburg, the head of tide water. There is a canal around these falls, and the river is boatable 80 miles above. Appoquininunk Creek, New Castle co., De., rises in the W. part of the county, and flows N. E. into Delaware Bay. Aransas River, Ts., flows in a S. of E. course, and empties into Espiritu Santo Bay, a little be- low the town of Eefugio. Ararat Mountain, Pa., lies in Luzerne and Wayne counties. Length 15 miles. Ararat, or Pilot Mountain, N. C., lies 9 miles N. W. from Bethania, between Yadkin River on the S. and Ararat River on the "W. It is about 1 mile in height, of a pyramidal form, with an area of an acre at the top, which supports a rock 300 feet high. Arguello Point, Ca. Situated N. W. from Point Conception. Argyle Fort, Bryan co., Ga., situated on the IV. bank of Ogechee River, 6 miles above Oge- chee Bridge, was built in 1733, to protect the early settlers against the Spaniards. It is now in ruins. Arkansas Pass, Ts. A passage between two islands leading into Espiritu Santo Bay. Arkansas River, As. This river rises in the Rocky Mountains, about lat. 42 N., near the sources of the Del Norte, and near the boundary between Nebraska and New-Mexico, and for some distance forms a part of that boundary. It flows through the central part of Arkansas, and after a course of 2170 miles, enters the Mississippi in lat. 33 40' N. Its general course is E. S. E. The navigation is not obstructed by rocks, shoals, or rapids, and it is navigable for boats at some seasons 1980 miles. The country watered by the Arkansas, in its upper parts, is sterile ; but in the lower parts it is tolerably fertile, and on its alluvial borders it is rich. The whole surface watered by this river and its tributaries is esti- mated at 178,000 square miles. Armstrong Fort. Situated on the S. extremity of Rock Island, Is. Aroostook River, Me. This river rises in the inte- rior of Piscataquis co., flows more than 100 miles in a circuitous course, receiving many important tributaries, and enters St. John's River in New Brunswick. The land on its borders is very fer- tile, and said to equal the celebrated Genesee land for the raising of wheat. Ascutney Mountain, Windsor co., Vt. This mountain lies in the towns of Windsor and Weathersfield, and is a huge mass of granite, pro- ducing but little vegetation of any kind. Its name is undoubtedly of Indian origin, but writers are not agreed as to its signification. From the summit of this mountain the prospect is extensive and very beautiful. The Connecticut, which is easily seen winding its way through fertile and highly cultivated meadows, adds much to the charm of the scenery. Ash Point, Chippewa co., Mn., extends into the Straits of St. Mary, opposite St. Joseph's Island. Ashepoo River, Colleton district, S. C. This river rises in the W. interior of the district, flows S. S. E., and empties into St. Helena Sound. Ashley Fork, Ca. A W. branch of Green River, which it enters below Brush Creek. Ashley River, S. C. This river rises in the W. part of Charleston district, flows S. E., through Colleton district, and enters Charleston Harbor opposite the city of Charleston. Ashley River, Fa., waters the W. part of the state, and falls into the Gulf of Mexico. Ashtabula River, Ashtabula co., 0. It rises in the E. part of the county, flows about 30 miles in a N. W. direction, and empties into Lake Erie. Ashudot or Ashwillit River, Cheshire co., N. H. This stream rises in a pond in the town of Wash- ington, flows in a southerly direction, through Mar- low and Gilsum, to Keene, where it receives a con- siderable branch supplied from ponds in Stoddard. From Keene it proceeds to Swanzey, where it re- ceives another branch, and thence pursues a south- erly and westerly course, through Winchester into Hinsdale, where it empties into the Connecticut, about 3 miles from the S. boundary of the state. Assabet River, Ms. It rises in the vicinity of Westborough, flows through Marlborough, North- borough, and Stow, and unites with Sudbury River at Concord. Assemoqua River, Mn., rises in the S. W. corner of Clare co., flows E., and empties into the Titti- bawasee on the S. border of Gladwin co. Attamva River, St. Croix co., Wn., flows S. W. into the St. Croix River. Attonowining River, La Pointe co., Wn. A small stream flowing S. into the St. Croix River. Attwater's Falls, in Norfolk village, St. Law- rence co., N. Y., are formed by the descent of Racket River from a height of 50 feet. Au Barque, Point, Mn., extends into the N. W. part of Lake Huron, E. from the Big Bay de Noquet. Au Barques Point, Huron co., Mn., situated at the mouth of Willow River. Au Bay Point, Mn., situated between Big and Little de Noquet Bays. Au Chapeau Point, Huron co., Mn., extends into Lake Huron, at the mouth of Pinebog River. Au Cuivre River, Mo. This river is formed by three principal branches, called Indian Creek, Middle, and Eagle Forks. After the junction of these large streams, the river flows in an easterly direction, forming the boundary between St. Charles and Lincoln counties, and empties into the Mississippi. Auglaize River, 0., rises in Allen co., receives numerous branches, and forms a large branch of the Maumee River, entering it on the S. side, at Defiance. It is boatable, at high water, 50 or 60 m. Au Haut Island, Me. This island lies off Han- cock co., E. from the Vinalhaven Islands. Au Pain de Sucre Point, Huron co., Mn. Situ- ated E. from Point au Chapeau. Au Sable, Point, Schoolcraft co., Mn. Situated E. from the mouth of Hurricane River. Au Sable Point, Brown co. Wn., extends into Green Bay, N. E. from the town of Green Bay, and opposite Grass Point. Au Sable River, N. Y., sometimes called the Great Au Sable, rises in the Mohegan Mountains, Essex co., near the sources of Hudson River. flows N. E., and enters Lake Champlain in the S. part of Clinton co. Its two main branches unite at the village of Au Sable Forks ; the river then passes through the manufacturing villages of Clintonville, Keesville, and Birmingham, afford- ing extensive water power. There is a succes- sion of falls, in all of about 150 feet descent, at Birmingham, 2 miles below Keesville. The river enters a deep ravine, of singular and romantic beauty, immediately below the falls. The rocks rise on either side of this chasm, which is formed by the wearing of the waters, or by some convul- IN THE UNITED STATES. 171 sion of nature, to an almost perpendicular height of from 75 to 150 feet, for a distance of about 2 miles, and an average width of about 50 feet, forming a great natural curiosity. There are other ravines of singular formation in this vi- cinity. Au Sable River, Little, rises in Clinton co., N. Y., and enters Lake Champlain a few miles N. of the Great Au Sable. Au Sable River, Is. A small branch of the Illi- nois Eiver, which it enters from theN. in Gundy co. Austin's Creek, Ga. It falls into Savannah River, about 12 miles N. W. from Savannah. Aux Grais River, Mn., rises in the S. E. part of Ogemaw co., flows S. E. into Arenac co., where it falls into Rifle River. Avalanche Lake, Newcomb, Essex co., N. Y. This small lake is situated between Mounts Mc- Intyre and McMartin. It is much the highest body of water in the state, large enough to be called a lake ; being elevated 2900 feet above the tide waters of the Hudson, of which it is a tribu- tary. It derives its name from an avalanche that must have occurred on the W. side of Mount Mc- Martin many years since. Avon Springs. See Mineral Springs, &c. Ayer's Hill, Haverhill, Ms. Height 339 feet. Back Creek, Va., drains Frederick co., and flows N. E., through Berkley co., into the Poto- mac River. Back River, N. H. The head stream of this River, called Bellamy Bank, is formed by two branches, which unite in Madbury. The stream then falls into the Piscataqua, on the W. side of Dover Neck, and is called Back River. Back River, Va., forms the boundary between York and Elizabeth City counties, and empties into Chesapeake Bay. Bad River, Mn., rises in Saginaw co., and empties into Saginaw River. Bad River, La Pointe co., Wn. This stream has many large branches, which drain, the E. part of the county. They unite to form the main stream near its entrance into Lake Superior. Bagaduce Point, Me. A cape extending into Penobscot Bay. Bahama Channel, or Gulf of Florida, the nar- row sea between the coast of America and the Bahama Islands, is 135 miles long, and 46 wide. The currents here, formed by an inflection of the Gulf Stream, are very violent, passing at the rate of from 2 to 5 miles an hour among islands, and vessels are frequently wrecked in passing through this dangerous strait. Baker's Island, Me., lies S. E. of Mount De- sert Island, off Hancock co. Baker Mount, On. This is an elevated peak of the Cascade Mts., situated on the N. border of the state. Baker Pond, Me. Situated in the N. part of Somerset co. The S. branch of St. John's River passes through it. Baker's River, Grafton co., N. H. This is a considerable stream, formed by two branches. The N. branch rises near Moosehillock Moun- tain in Benton, flows in a southerly direc- tion through Warren into Wentworth, where it unites with the S. branch. The river then flows in a S. E. and S. course through Rumney and Plymouth, where it unites with the Pemige- wasset, just above Plymouth Village. It was on this river, in the township of Rumney that General Stark was captured by the Indians, on the 28th of April, 1752. Bald Eagle Mountains and Valley, Pa., are situ- ated N. E. of Juniata River, on the confines of Huntington and Centre counties. Bald Eagle Valley lies on the E. side, and is 5 miles wide, having beneath it a bed of limestone. It has also a place where caverns in the rocks absorb the principal streams of the valley, which run several miles under ground before they emerge. Bald Eagle River, Pa., runs in a N. E. direction 44 miles, through Centre and Clinton counties, and falls into the W. branch of the Susquehanna, after a course of 50 miles. Bald Face Mountain, Coos co., N. H., lies in the town of Bartlett, between Ellis River and the Rocky branch of the Saco. Bald Hill, Douglas, Ms. Height 714 feet. Bald Mount, Somerset co.. Me., lies W. of Pe- nobscot River. Bald Mountain Hills, Rensselaer co., N. Y., is a high range extending from the town of Hoosick, through Petersburg into Berlin. Bald Mountain Ridge, Me. Situated in the N. W. part of Somerset co., near the source of the W. branch of Penobscot River. Bald Mountain. An isolated peak, situated in the same county, S. from the Ridge. Bald Peak, Mt. Washington, Ms. Height 2624 ft. Baldwin's Creek rises in Erin, Chemung co., N. Y., and flows S. into Chemung River. Balize, La. This is the principal entrance into the mouth of the Mississippi, and is 100 miles be- low New Orleans. It is about 20 miles long, and has 16 feet of water on the bar. Ballston Springs, See Mineral Springs, &c. Baloxi, Bay of, Mi. This bay lies between Harrison co. on the N. and Ship Island Sound on the S. Baloxi River, Harrison co., Mi., is a small stream emptying into Baloxi Bay. Bamonegemook Lake, Me., lies in the N. part of Piscataquis co. Bank Creek, Pa. The head branches of this stream rise in the W. part of Clearfield co. It flows in a S. W. direction, separating Clarion and Armstrong counties, and empties into the Alle- ghany River. Bannister River, Va., runs through Pittsylvania and Halifax counties, and falls into Dan River, 10 miles above its junction with the Roanoke. Baptism River, Ma. A small stream flowing S. E. into Lake Superior. Baraboo River, Wn. It rises in the N. W. part of Sauk co., flows S. of E., and empties into Wis- consin River, in Columbia co., just above the town of De Korra. Barataria Bay, La. This bay sets up from the Gulf of Mexico, and receives the waters of a chain of lakes lying between it and the Mississippi River. Barataria Island, La. A strong military post on the N. side of the Gulf of Mexico, at the entrance of Barataria Bay, 55 miles N. W. from the Balize. It is a healthy island, and has a safe and commo- dious harbor. Barataria River, La., runs S. into a bay of the same name. Bare Mountain, Orange co., N. Y. This is one of the W. peaks of the Highlands, lying in the towns of Cornwall and Monroe. Barnharfs Island, St. Lawrence co., N. Y., lies in St. Lawrence River, being the most N. island in this river belonging to the U. S. 172 MOUNTAINS, RIVERS, LAKES, &c., Barn Island, Great, New York co., N. Y., lies in East River, on the N. side of Hell Gate, 7 miles from the City Hall. It is about 2 miles in cir- cumference. Barn Island, Little, N. Y., lies at the junction of Harlem and East Rivers, and N. E. of Great Barn Island, from which it is separated by a nar- row channel called " Little Hell Gate." Barnes Sound, Fa. A large expanse of water, situated between Dade co. on the N. and the Florida Keys on the S. and E. Barnegat Bay, N. J. This bay is separated from the ocean by Island and Squam Beaches, extends from Barnegat Inlet, 20 miles, to Mete- cunk River, and is from 1 to 4 miles wide. Barques River, Mo., enters the Missouri at Ion. 93 14' W. and lat. 38 43' N. Barren Island, King's co., N. Y., lies at the mouth of Jamaica Bay, between Plumb and Rock- away Inlets. Barren Rivers, Ky., two small rivers, called the Big and Little Barren, are tributaries of Green River. The former falls into it in the N. W. cor- ner of Warren co., the latter W. of Green sburg. Barrell Creek, Iowa, flows S. W., and enters Mis- souri River in Mills co. Barrier River, On., flows in an E. direction, and falls into Clark's fork of Columbia River, a little below Fort Okonagan. Barrington Fort, Ga., 14 miles above Darien, on the E. bank of the Alatamaha, was erected in 1720 by the Carolinians, to prevent the escape of the negroes to the Spaniards at St. Augustine. Barron's Island, Grafton co., N. H. A small .island in the Connecticut River, attached to the town of Piermont. Bartletfs Island, La Pointe co., Wn. Situated in Lake Superior, N.E. from the Apostles' Islands. Barton River, Vt., is formed in the township of Barton, by the junction of two head branches, one of which rises in Glover, and the other on the boundary between Sheffield and Sutton. The main stream flows N. and N. E., receiving Wil- loughby's River near its head, and passing through parts of Irasburg and Orleans, empties into Mem- phremagog Lake. It waters about 160 square miles. Basin Harbor, Addison co., Vt. See Ferrisburg. Baskahegan River, Me., rises in Baskahegan Lake, Washington co., near New Brunswick line ; it then flows 15 or 20 miles in a W. direction, and empties into the Matawamkeag, a tributary of the Penobscot. Bass Islands, 0. Situated in Lake Erie, N. W. from Cunningham's Island and N. from the town of Port Clinton. Bastien Bay, Plaquemine parish, La. A long, narrow body of water extending from the Missis- sippi River S. W. into Barataria Bay. Basture Island. A small island lying in the Gulf of Mexico, near the coast of Mi. Batache Bayou, La. A small branch of the Dorcheat Bayou. Battahatchee River rises in A a., and after a course of 70 miles in a S. W. direction, enters the Tombigbee, in Monroe co., Mi. Batten Kill rises in Vt., flows W. through Wash- ington co., N. Y., and enters the Hudson l miles below Fort Miller bridge. It is a good mill stream. Battle Creek, Mn., is the largest branch of the Kalamazoo. It has a winding course of 40 miles, and furnishes good mill seats. Battle River, Aroostook co., Me. A small stream flowing in a S. E. direction into the Mat- awamkeag River. Bay Creek, Is., rises in the N. part of Pike co., flows W., and empties into the Mississippi in Calhoun co. Bay River, Craven co., N. C., empties into Pam- lico Sound, N. from Neuse River. Bay Ronde, La. This small bay lies off Pla- quemine parish, just above the Delta of the Mis- sissippi. Bayou des Arcs, As. This stream flows in a S. E. direction, forming the boundary line be- tween White and Pulaski counties, and empties into White River. Bayou Meter, As. This river rises in the N. W. part of Pulaski co., flows S. S. E., its tributaries draining a large extent of land, and falls into the Arkansas River, in Arkansas co. Beach Island, Ms. This island lies off the town of Wellfleet, enclosing Wellfleet Bay. Beacon Hill, or the. Old Beacon, N. Y., one of the highest peaks of the Highlands of the Hud- son, is situated in the S. part of the town of Fish- kill, close on the borders of the Hudson, above which it is elevated 1471 feet. Beacon, New, or Grand Sachem, N. Y., situ- ated half a mile S. of the former, is the high- est peak of the Highlands, or Matteawan Moun- tains, being elevated 1685 feet above the tide waters of the Hudson. The view from the summit of this mountain is extremely beautiful. The river is visible from West Point to Tappan Bay on the S., and for an extent of 50 miles on the N. The surrounding rich and highly culti- vated country, dotted with villages, and wanting in nothing that renders so extensive a landscape lovely, lies as a picture before the observer. Bean Hill, Merrimac co., N. H. See Northfield. Beans Creek, Franklin co., Te. A small branch of Elk River. Bearen Island, N. Y., lying in the Hudson, opposite the town of Coeymans, Albany co., was on the S. boundary of the old Rensselaerwyck colony, and was fortified and garrisoned by one of the early patroons, in 1 644. All foreign traders were obliged to come here and learn the terms on which the port of the colony might be entered. Bear Camp River, N. H. This river is formed in Ossipee, by the junction of its two principal branches, and empties into the W. side of Ossipee Lake. Bear Creek, the outlet of Bear Lake, rises in Stockton, Chatauque co., N. Y., and flowing S. enters Cassadaga Creek. Bear's or Tiffin's Creek rises in Mn., and enters the Maumee l miles above the Auglaise. It is 54 miles long. Bear Creek, Is., rises in the interior of Hancock co., flows S. S. E., and enters the Mississippi by two mouths in Adams co. Bear Creek, Iowa. A S. branch of the Maco- quetais River, which it enters in Jackson co. Bear Creek. A branch of Tennessee River, rises in Aa., and after a course of 70 miles enters the Tennessee, between the states of Aa. and Mi. Bear Creek, Ts. A small W. branch of Trinity River. Bear Grass River, Ky., falls into the Ohio, at Louisville. Bear Lake, Chatauque co.. N. Y., is a small body of water lying partly in the town of Pom fret and partly in Stockton. IN THE UNITED STATES. 173 Bear Mountain, Wendall, Ms. Height 1281 ft. Bear River, Me. This stream rises in the High- lands, near Umbagog Lake, and falls into the Androscoggin, opposite Bethel. Beasley's Creek, Ky., falls into Ohio Kiver, Ion. 83 55' W. and lat. 38 35' N. Beaver, Big, River, Pa., is formed by the Maho- ning and Shenango. It enters the Ohio River near the town of Beaver, Pa. The main river is about 20 miles long, and to its sources 80 miles. The Pennsylvania and Ohio Canal passes along the valley of this river. Beaver Dam Creek, Beaufort district, S. C. A small branch of the Savannah River. Beaver Dam Lake, Tunica co., Mi., lies a little E. from the Mississippi River, with which it is connected by an outlet. Beaver Brook, Aroostook co., Me., is a tributary of Aroostook River, which it enters on the N. side. Beaver Brooks, N. H. There are several streams of this name in the state. The largest rises in a small pond in Unity, and flowing W. empties into the Connecticut at Charlestown. Another rises in Mount Vernon, and empties into the Souhegan. Beaver Creek, Crawford co., Wn. A tributary of Black River. Beaver Islands, Lake Michigan. These islands are 5 or 6 in number. The largest, Big Beaver, contains 40 square miles. Beaver Islands, Great and Little, Mn. They lie in the N. part of Lake Michigan, Great Beaver being S. and Little Beaver S. W. from Garden Island. BeaverkiH rises in Ulster co., N. Y., flows through Sullivan into Delaware co., and falls into the Papacton, a branch of the Delaware. It is a good mill stream. Beaver Lake, Hamilton co., N. Y., is a small body of water emptying into Moose River. ]3eaver River, N. H. and Ms., rises in Beaver Pond, in Londonderry, flows S. through Pelham, and falls into the Merrimac, in Dracut, Ms., nearly opposite the mouth of Concord River. Beaver River rises in Hamilton co., N. Y., and flowing W. empties into Black River, in Lewis co. Becket Station Mountain, Becket, Ms. Height 2194 feet. Bedlow's Island is situated in New York Bay, near Ellis's Island, and 2946 yards S. W. of the Battery. It belongs to the U. S. government, and on it is located Fort Wood, a strong fortification, which, with the works on Governor's Island, forms the inner defence of N. Y. harbor. Beech River, Te. This stream rises in the W. interior of Henderson co., flows E., receiving Piney, Cane, Mill, and other small creeks, and en- ters the Tennessee at Perryville. Beerldll rises in Sullivan co., N. Y., flows E., and empties into Rondout Creek, in Ulster co. Belamaqueen Bay, Vt. A small bay jutting into the town of Ferrisburg, from Lake Champlain. Belle River, Mn., passes through Lapeer and St. Clair counties, and after a course of 50 miles en- ters St. Clair River. It is navigable for bateaux a short distance from its mouth. Belle Pond, or Belle Water Pond, Vt., lies in the S. E. part of Barton, and is 3 miles long and 1& miles wide. Bell Kedgwick River, Me. A branch of the Kat- a\van Kedgwick, which it enters on the W. side. Belling/tarn Bay, On. Situated in the N. W. part of the state, between the Gulf of Georgia und the Straits of Juan de Fuca. Bellows Falls, Vt. See Rockingham. Bennett's Creek rises in the S. part of Sj;euben co., N. Y., and flowing N. enters Canisteo River. Benton Lakes, Ma. Situated at the head of Coteau Percee Creek, a tributary of Sioux River. Bete Gris Bay, Houghton co., Mn. Situated on the N. E. part of Keewaiwona Bay. Betsie River, Mn. This stream rises in a small lake in the S. W. part of Leelanau co., makes a curve into Manistee co., then flows through the S. W. part of Leelanau co. into Lake Michigan. Big Bay de Noquet, Mn. This is a large bay extending into the N. part of the peninsula, N. E. from Green Bay. It receives the waters of several rivers, and communicates with Lake Michigan. Big Bay Creek, Is. This stream flows S. E., draining Johnson and Pope counties, and empties into the Kentucky River. Big Biwyah Creek, Choctaw co., Mi. One of the head branches of the Big Black River. Big Black River, Mi., is 160 miles long, and empties into the Mississippi. Big Blue River, la., falls into the Ohio, 2 miles W. from Leavenworth. Big Blue River rises in the E. part of In. ter. and falls into the Missouri in Jackson co. Big Bone Creek, Woodford co., Ky., flows W. into the Ohio River. Big Branch Creek, Ripley co., Mo. A tributary of Current River, which it enters near the centre of the county. Big Flat Creek, Bedford co., Te., enters Duck River from the S., opposite Shelby ville. Big Hatchy River, Te., falls into the Mississippi in Tipton co., after a course of 100 miles. Bighorn River. This river rises in the Rocky Mountains, and flowing in a N. E. direction, about 800 miles, joins the Yellowstone at Manuel's Fort. It waters a fine, fertile country, and is navigable for canoes to a great distance. Big Horse Creek, Edgefield district, S. C. A small branch of the Savannah, which it enters a little below Hamburg. Big Indian Creek, la., rises in the S. part of Johnson co., flows W., and empties into the "W. fork of White River, in Morgan county. Big Lake River, On. It rises in a lake on the N. border of On., flows S. W., and empties into Clark's Fork of Columbia River, a little W. from Pend Orcille's Lake. Big Laurel River, N. C., rises among the Blue Ridge Mountains in Yancey co., and flows S. W. into the French Broad River. Big and Little Sandy Forks, On. and Ca, These streams rise in the Wind River Mts., unite, and flowing S. W. into Ca., empty into Green River. Big Loutre River, Mo. This river waters the S. E. part of Audrain co., flows S. S. E., and en- ters the Missouri, opposite Loutre Island. Big Mill Creek, Jackson co., Va., flows in a N. W. direction, and empties into the Ohio River. Big Maddy River, Is. This river rises in the N. part of Jefferson co., flows S. W., receiving numerous tributaries, and enters the Mississippi in the N. W. corner of Union co. Big Pigeon Creek, la. It rises near the centre of Gibson co., flows in a winding southerly direc- tion, and enters the Ohio River in Vanderburg co. Big Pigeon River. This stream rises in the S. E. part of Haywood co., N. C., flows N. W. into Te., and enters the French Broad River in the N. part of Cocke co. Big Sandy River, rises in Va., and enters the 174 MOUNTAINS, RIVERS, LAKES, &c. Ohio at Catletsburg, Ky. It is formed by the junction of E. and W. forks, and its E. fork con- stitutes the boundary between Va. and Ky. for nearly 200 miles. Big Stone Lake, Ma. This is a long, narrow sheet of water, lying S. E. from Lake Travers. The waters of Minesota or St. Peter's River pass through it. Big Swamp Creek, Lowndes co., Aa., flows N. W., and enters the Alabama River at Benton. Big Thibeau River, Mo., rises in the N. E. part of Henry co., flows S. E., and enters the South Grand, near its junction with Osage River. Big Whippoorwill Creek, Logan co., Ky., flows S. E., and empties into Red, a branch of Cumber- land River. Big Wills Creek, Aa. This stream has its source among the Alleghanies, flows mostly in a S. W. course, and falls into the Coosa River. Big Wood River, On. It rises among the Salmon River Mountains, flows S. of W., and falls into, Lewis's fork of Columbia River, just below Fort Poisee. Big Creek, Posey co., la., flows S. W. into the Wabash River. Big Creek, As. A small branch of White River. Big Creek, Ts. An E. tributary of Brazos River. Bigelow Mountains, Me., lie S. of Dead River, in Franklin and Somerset counties. Billingsgate Island, Ms. This is the most southern of four islands enclosing Wellfleet Bay. Birch Lake, Chippewa co., Wn. One of a chain of small lakes supplying the head waters of Red Cedar River. Birch Stream, Penobscot co., Me., enters the Penobscot River just above Oldtown Island. Bird Island, N. Y. Situated in the E. part of Lake Erie, opposite the city of Buffalo, is a small, rocky island. The great Black Rock Pier com- mences here, and extends to Squaw Island, oppo- site Black Rock, a distance of 2 miles, affording an immense hydraulic power, also an inexhaust- ible feeder for the Erie Canal. Bird Song Creek, Benton co., Te. A small branch of the Tennessee River. Bishop's Brook, N. H., waters Stewartstown, and empties into the Connecticut. Bistineau Lake, Claiborne parish, La., receives Dacheet River, and connects with Red River, the waters of which it receives in the wet season, and discharges in the dry season. It is 35 miles long and 2 miles wide. Biswdl's Creek, Livingston co., Ky. A small branch of the Cumberland River. Black Bay, Va. A small bay in the Ches- apeake, at Ion. 76 21' W. and lat. 37 9' N. Black Bay, Situated in the N. part of Lake Superior, Ion. 88 10' W. and lat. 48 36' N. Black Bay, La., lies off St. Bernard and Pla- quemine parishes, between Chandeleur Bay on the E., and the Bay de la Riviere au Chenes on the S. Black Creek, Vt. See Fairfield. Black Creek rises in New Hudson, Alleghany co., N. Y., and flows N. E. into Genesee River. Black Creek, N. Y. This stream, which affords good water power, rises in Genesee co., and flows into Genesee River, in Monroe co. Black Creek, Brown co., Wn. An E. branch of Wolf River. Black Creek, Fa. A tributary of St. John's River, which it enters in Duval co. Black Beard Island, Ga., belongs to the U. S. government, and contains 1600 acres. Black Lake, St. Lawrence co., N. Y. This lake, which lies nearly parallel with St. Lawrence River, is about 20 miles long, and from 1 to 2-i miles in width, and seems a mere expansion of Black River, which enters it from the S. Its out- let, after flowing 2 or 3 miles, enters Oswegatchie River. Black River, Me. This river rises 'in several ponds near the Canada line, and flows S. E. into St. John's River. Black River, Little, Me., rises N. E. of the for- mer, and flows S. E. into the St. John's. Black River, Windsor co., Vt. It rises in Plymouth, flows through Ludlow, Cavendish, and Weathersfield, affording many mill sites, and falls into the Connecticut at Springfield. Its length is 35 miles. Black River, Orleans co.. Vt., rises in some ponds in Craftsbury, flows through Albany, Iras- burg, and Coventry, and falls into Memphrema- gog Lake at Salem. Its length is about 30 miles. Black River, the third river in size that has its course entirely in N. Y., derives its name from the color of its waters. It rises in Herki- mer and Hamilton counties, flows N. W. about 120 miles, and empties into Black River Bay, in the E. part of Lake Ontario. It is navigable from the High Falls, in Leyden, where it has a descent of 63 feet, to the Long Falls at Carthage, a dis- tance of 40 miles. The remainder of its course is circuitous, being a succession of rapids and falls. It is mostly a deep, sluggish stream, its falls, however, affording fine water power. Its lower part is bordered by a fertile and thickly settled country. Black River Bay, N. Y., an expansion of Black River at its mouth, is situated E. of Lake Ontario, with which it communicates. It is 5 miles long, and 1 mile wide. Black River, S. C. This river rises in the E. part of Kershaw district, flows S. E. across Sump- ter and Williamsburg districts, and empties into Winyaw Bay at Georgetown. Black River, Mn. This river is formed by 3 principal branches, which unite on the boundary between Allegan and Van Buren counties, and empties into Lake Michigan. Black River, Mn., drains the W. part of the upper peninsula, flowing N. into Lake Superior. Black River and Lake. Ottowa and Allegan counties, Mn. The river flows mostly in Ottowa co., and widens into a lake near its entrance into Lake Michigan. Black River, Wn. It rises in the W. part of Portage co., and flows S. S. W. into the Missis- sippi River. This river has many tributaries, and drains a large extent of country. Black Lake Creek, La., rises in Claiborne parish, flows S., receiving numerous tributaries, and unit- ing near its mouth with the Grand Bayou, enters Black Lake. Black Fish River, Crittenden co., As. A small tributary of the St. Francis. Black Oak Island, Sumpter district, S. C. Bounded E. and S. by the Santee River, and W. and N. by some of its branches. Blackstone River, Ms. The most inland branch of this river rises between Paxton and Holden. It passes Worcester, receives the waters of the ponds in Shrewsbury, passes Auburn, Grafton, Millbury, Sutton, Northbridge, Uxbridge, and Mendon, and entering R. I. changes its name to IN THE UNITED STATES. 175 Pawtucket, and meets the tide waters in Provi- dence River. Blackwater River, N. H., derives its name from the color of its water. jjt is formed in the W. part of Andover, by the junction of two small streams, and flowing through Salisbury and Bos- cawen, enters Contoocook River in Hopkinton. Black Water River, Mo. This stream, with its tributaries, drains Johnson co., flows N. E., and enters La Mine River, in Saline co. BlackweWs Island, N. Y., belonging to the city of New York, lies in East River, about 4 miles from the City Hall. It is 1| miles long, and quite narrow. On it are situated the City Peni- tentiary and the Lunatic Asylum, two massive stone buildings. Blanco or Orford Cape, On. A point of land extending into the Pacific Ocean, N. from the mouth of Tlamath River. Block Island, R. I. See New ShoreJtam. Blood River, Te. and Ky., rises in Henry co., Te., flows N. E., and empties into the Tennessee River in Galloway co., Ky. Blue Hill and Bay, Me. See Towns. Blue Bayou, La. This stream is an outlet of the Bayou La Fourche, which it leaves at Thibo- deauville. It then flows in a S. E. direction, sepa- rating La Fourche Interior and Terre Bonne parishes, and enters the E. part of Timbalier Bay. Blue Buck Point, La. This is the S. W. ex- tremity of Calcasieu parish, and extends into Sa- bine Lake. Blue Hills, N. H. This is the name generally given to the range commencing in Nottingham, and extending through Stratford, Farmington, and Milton. Teneriffe, Saddleback, and Tuck- away are among its principal peaks. Blue Hill, Milton, Ms. Height 635 feet. Blue Mountains, On. A range extending through the interior of the territory, nearly par- allel with the Cascade Mountains. Blue Ridge, or South Mountains, branch off from the E. part of the Alleghany Mountains, in N. C., cross the state of Va., and extend to the " High- lands," N. Y. The highest summits, called " the Peaks of Otter," are in Bedford co., Va. The E. peak measures about 4000 feet in height. Blue River, Grant co., Mn., drains the N. E. part of the county, and empties into Wisconsin River. Blue Stone River, Va. It rises in the E. part of Tazewcll co., among the Great Flat Top Moun- tains, flows N. E. through Mercer co., and falls into New River, near its junction with the Green- brier. Bluewater River, La., falls into the Missouri, 9 miles E. of the Kansas. Bluff" Island, in the St. Lawrence, is attached to the town of Hammond, St. Lawrence co., N. Y. Bluff" Point, N. Y. See Crooked Lake. Bluff Point, Va. The S. extremity of North- umberland co., extending into Chesapeake Bay. Bozakill rises in Schenectady co., N. Y., flows E., and enters Norman's Kill, in Albany co. Bodeau Bayou rises in the S. W. part of As., flows S. into La., and enters Lake Bodeau. Bodeau Lake, Bossier parish, La. This long and narrow sheet of water receives Bodeau Bayou on the N., and is connected by outlets on the S. with Red River and Lake Bistineau. Bodkin's Point, Md., extends into Chesapeake Bay, Ion. 76 35' W. and lat. 38 10' N. Baeuf Bayou, or Creek, La., rises in Rapide parish, and flows through a fertile country, divid- ing into two channels, one of which connects with Red River, and the other with Crocodile River, to form the Courtableau. Bog Stream, Piscataquis co., Me., rises near Moosehead Lake, flows S. S. E., and empties into Piscataquis River. Bogue Chito, River, rises in Mi., flows 90 miles, mostly in La., and enters Pearl River from the W. Bogue Home Creek, Mi. This river rises in Jas- per co., flows S., and enters Leaf River a little E. from Augusta. Bogue Inlet, N. C. Situated between Carteret and Onslow counties, and communicating with Goose Sound. Bohe River, Md., falls into the Chesapeake at Ion. 76 8' W. and lat. 39 30' N. Bohemia Creek, Md., enters Elk River 4 or 5 miles above its mouth. Bois Blanc Island, Mn. Situated in Detroit River, near its entrance into Lake Erie. Bois Blanc Island, Mn. A large island situated in Lake Huron, at the entrance of the Straits of Mackinaw. Bolivar Point, Ts. A point of land enclosing Galveston Bay on the S. E. Bombazine Lake, Vt. See Castleton. Bone Hill River, Ma. It enters the Tehan Sansan, or River a Jaques from the N. W. Bon Homme Island, Ma. Situated in the Mis- souri, a little E. from the mouth of Wananri River. Bonpas Creek, Is. The head branches of this stream rise in Richland and Lawrence counties, and it flows S., forming the boundary between Edwards and Wabash counties, until its entrance into the Wabash. Bon Secour Bay, Aa. Situated in the E. part of Mobile, and separated from the Gulf of Mexico on the S. by Mobile Point. Boon Island, Me. This is a ledge of rocks on which is a light-house. It lies about 9 miles E. from Kittery. Boone Lake, Iowa. A small sheet of water lying in the N. part of the state, being the source of Boone River. Boone River, Iowa. This stream rises in Lake Boone, in the N. part of the state, flows S. S. W., and empties into the Des Moines, a little N. from Boone county. Boquet River, N. Y. This fine mill stream rises in Keene, Essex co., and flows E. 45 miles into Lake Champlain. Boreas River, N. Y. This river rises in Essex co., and flows S. into the Hudson, of which it is a head branch. Boro Isle, Me., lies in Penobscot Bay. It is a long island, very narrow in the middle, but wider at each end. Boston Harbor, Ms. This harbor extends across Light-house Channel and Broad Sound, from Point Alderton, on Nantasket, to Point Shirley, in Chelsea, a distance between the islands of about 4 miles. It is said to cover an area of 75 square miles, more than half of which is good anchorage ground for ships of the largest class. The whole British navy might moor in this har- bor with ease, and ride in safety. This harbor is formed by the sea, and is entirely free from sand bars and rnnning ice, which often obstruct the passage of vessels to harbors at the mouths of large rivers. The most important part of this harbor is entered by a narrow pass, between two and three miles below the city and navy yard, 176 MOUNTAINS, RIVERS, LAKES, &c., and is well protected by two powerful forts In- dependence and Warren. The outer harbor, be- low these forts, will shortly be protected by a very powerful fortress, now nearly completed, on George's Island, at a great expense, by the gov- ernment of the United States. This harbor is easy of access, and never obstructed by ice, except that part of it near the city ; nor is that part en- tirely frozen over oftener than twice or three times in the common age of man. Boston Har- bor contains many islands of great beauty, and is the reservoir of the Mystic, Charles, Neponset, Manatiquot, and other small rivers. Its bor- ders are environed by the towns of Hull, Hing- ham, Weymouth, Braintree, Quincy, Dorchester, Roxbury, Brookline. Cambridge, Charlestown, and Chelsea; and the numerous small bays, coves, and inlets indenting their shores, give great varie- ty, and add much to the scenery of this delight- ful harbor. Bottom Creek, Lapeer co., Mn. A head branch of the N. fork of Flint River. Bourbease Creek, Mo. Its head branches drain the N. W, part of Crawford co. It then flows N. E., and enters the Maramec River in Franklin co. Bourne's Hill, Sandwich, Ms. Height 297 feet. Bowback Mountain, N. H. See Stratford. Boioman's Creek, N. Y., rises in Schoharie co., and flowing N. enters the Mohawk near the vil- lage of Canajoharie. Beyer's River, Iowa. It rises in a small lake, which is also the source of one of the head branches of Raccoon River, flows S. W. and falls into the Missouri. Bracken Creek, Ky.. falls into the Ohio, Ion. 84 8' W. and lat. 38 36' N. Braddock's Bay, Monroe co.. N. Y., is a small body of water communicating with Lake Ontario. Brady Fort, Sault St. Marie, Chippewa co., Mn. Branch Brook rises in Smithtown, Suffolk co., N. Y., flows W. 4 or 5 miles, then turns to the N., and falls into the Nesaquake River, or Smith- town Harbor. The tide flows up the latter stream several miles. Brandywine Creek, Pa. and De., rises in Pa., flows into De., and uniting with Christina Creek, enters the Delaware at Wilmington. It furnishes excellent water power, and is navigable to Bran- dywine village. Brant Island, N. C. Situated in Pamlico Sound, between Neuse and Pamlico Rivers. Brant Lake, Horicon, Warren co., N. Y., is a small body of water emptying into the Schroon, a branch of the Hudson. The scenery on its shores is wild and romantic. It is surrounded by a heavy growth of pine, hemlock, and spruce, in which deer and other wild game are found. Its waters abound in fine trout. Brassua Pond, Somerset co., Me., lies W. of Moosehead Lake, and receives several rivers. 'Brazos River, Ts. It rises between Red and Colorado Rivers, flows S. E., and empties into the Gulf of Mexico. Breach Inlet, Charleston district, S. C. The passage between Long and Sullivan's Island. Breakfast Hill, N. H. See Rye. Breakneck Hill, N. Y., is situated on the E. side of the Hudson, on its N. entrance into the High- lands. It is a precipitous eminence, 1187 feet high, and remarkable for containing the rock called the upper Anthony's Nose. Brier Creek, Ga., a branch of the Savannah, is 100 miles long. I Broad Brook, Vt. This small mill stream rises in Barnard, crosses the S. E. corner of Royalton, and falls into White River in Sharon. Broad Creek, Prince George's co., Md. A small stream emptying into the Potomac River, just above Piscataway Creek. Broad River, S. C. This river rises in N. C., receives Pacolet and Tiger Rivers from the W., and uniting with the Salada above Columbus, forms the Congaree. Broad River, S. C., is an arm of the sea be- tween the main land and Port Royal Island. Broad River, Ga., enters the Savannah, of which it is a W. branch, at Petersburg. Bronx River rises in Westchestcr co., N. Y., flows 25 miles, and enters East River, opposite Flushing Bay. Brother s Islands. North and South, attached to the town of Newtown, Queen's co., N. Y., are situated in East River, at the lower end of Long Island Sound. Brown's Inlet, Onslow CO., N. C. Situated N. E. from New River Inlet. Brown Point, On., encloses Gray's Harbor on the N. v Brown's River, Vt., rises among the Mansfield Mountains, flows westerly through Underbill and Jericho into Essex, and thence northerly through Westford into Fairfax, where it enters the La- moille. Length about 29 miles. Brule Lake, Mn. A small sheet of water in the S. W. part of Marquctte co., arid at the head of Brul6 River. Brush Creek, S. C. A small branch of the Sa- luda River, which it enters in Anderson district. Brush Creek, Ca. A small W. branch of Green River, which it enters below Yampah or Bear River. Buck Creek, Harrison co., la. A small branch of the Ohio River. Buffalo Creek is formed in Erie co., N. Y., by the junction of Cayuga and Seneca Creeks ; it then flows in a N. W. direction, until it enters Lake Erie at Buffalo, receiving Cazenove Creek, 6 miles above. It is navigable for steamboats and the largest vessels for some distance, and forms the harbor of Buffalo, which is rendered secure by means of a pier and light-house, and is easily approached from the lake at all seasons, except in the winter, when closed by ice. Buffalo Creek, Ga. A branch of the Oconee River, which it enters in Washington co. Buffalo Fork, of the White River, As. This large stream rises in the W. part of Newton co., flows E., and enters White River in Yard co. Buffalo Lake, Marquette co., Wn. This is an enlargement of one of the head branches of Necnah or Fox River. It lies W. from Pucka- Avay Lake. Buffalo River. Te. The head branches of this river rise in the N. part of Lawrence co. It flows W. through a part of Lewis and Wayne counties, then turns to the N., and unites with Dutch River in Humphreys co. Buffalo River, Wn. It forms part of the boundary between Chippewa and Crawford counties, and falls into the Mississippi. Buffalo River, Ma. It is supplied by numer- ous chains of lakes, and flows N. W. into North Red River. Bull's Bay, Charleston district, S. C. This bay is enclosed by the Raccoon Keys on the N. E., and Bull's Island on the S. W. IN THE UNITED STATES. 177 Bull Hill, Phillipstown, Putnam co., N. Y., a high peak of the Highlands, is situated on the E. side of the Hudson. Bull's Island, Charleston district, S. C. Situ- ated S. W. from Bull's Bay. * Bullock's Creek, York district, S. C. A branch of the Broad Biver, which it enters at Pinckney- ville. Bulwagga Bay, Essex co., N. Y., lies on the W. side of Lake Champlain, between Cedar Point and Crown Point. Burr.sket Hill, Paxton, Ms. Height 1407 feet. Bunkara River, Ca. One of the head branches of Grand Eiver. Buried Eagle Lake, Ma. Situated* N. from Green Lake, and connected on the E. with St. Croix River. Burlington Bay, Vt. A fine open bay, lying W. from Burlington village, between Appletree Point on the N. and Pottier's Point on the S. Burnham's River, N. H. See Lyman. Burnt River, On. It flows in a winding, east- erly direction, and enters the Lewis Fork of Co- lumbia River, above Malheur River. Burnt Coat Island, Hancock co., Me. This large island, which is surrounded by other smaller ones, lies off Blue Hill Bay, about 13 miles E. by S. from Deer Island, and about 6 miles S. by W. from the town of Mount Desert. It has a light- house and good harbors. Burnt Wood Islands, Mn. Situated at the mouth of Big Bay de Noquet. Bush River, Newberry district, S. C. A branch of the Saluda. Busscron Creek, la. This stream and its branches drain Sullivan co., and flowing S. W., enter the Wabash in Knox county. Butle River, Ca. It rises among the Sierra Nevada, and flows S. W. into the Rio Sacramento. Butter Hill, N. Y., a high, steep eminence, is sit- uated on the W. side of the Hudson, opposite Breakneck Hill. These are the N. hills of this range on the river, and in ascending the Hudson the villages of Cornwall, New Windsor, New- burg, and Fishkill, together with the beautiful and highly improved farms in view, present a charming contrast to the rude and romantic mountain scenery just passed. Buttermilk Channel, N. Y., is situated opposite the city of Brooklyn, between Governor's Island and Long Island. Butternut Creek, N. Y. This is a good mill stream, rising in Burlington, Otsego co., and flow- ing into Unadilla River. Buttermilk Falls, N. Y. A beautiful and ro- mantic cascade, 2 miles below West Point, on the W. bank of the Hudson. Butternut River, Aroostook co., Me., has its source in a small pond, and flows E.into St. John's River. Buzzard's Bay, Ms. This bay is formed on its S. E. side by the Elizabeth Islands, and contains the important harbors of New Bedford, Fair- haven, Rochester, Wareham, &c. It juts up from the sea some 25 miles ; its mean width is about 6 miles, and the width at its mouth about 7 miles. Byram River rises in Westchester co., N. Y., flows S. 18 miles into Long Island Sound. It forms the boundary line between N. Y. and Ct. for a short distance. CabaUo Pass, Ts., is situated N. E. from Es- 23 piritu Santo Pass, at the mouth of San Antonia River. Cabbage Island, Fa., lies off the coast of Hills- boro' co., a little above Tampa Bay. Cacapon River, Great, Va. This river has its sources in the E. part of Hardy co., floivs N. E., and enters the Potomac in Morgan co., W. from the Cacapon Mts. Cacapon River, Little, Hampshire co., Va., flows N. E., parallel with the Great Cacapon, and emp- ties into the Potomac. Cache River, As. This is a large river, rising in the N. part of Greene co. It flows S. S. W., sep- arating Greene and Poinsett from Randolph, Lawrence, and Jackson counties, crosses St. Fran- cis and Monroe counties, and enters the White River at the town of Clarendon. Cadose Creek rises in Tompkins, Delaware co., N. Y., and flows S. into the Papacton, a branch of the Delaware. Cahaba River, Aa., rises in St. Clair co., and flows S. into the Alabama, 195 miles above its junction with the Tombigbee. It as 120 m. long. Cahokia Creek, Is. This river rises in Macou- pin, and falls into the Mississippi 2 miles below the ferry at St. Louis. Its course is sluggish near the mouth, and a mill dam backs the water for 15 miles. It formerly passed the village of Ca- hokia, but a mischievous Frenchman, owing to some pique, cut a channel which has since become its outlet from the creek to the Mississippi. Along its borders are 60 or 70 mounds. Calaberas River, Ca., rises among the Sierra Nevada, and -flows S. W. into the Rio San Joaquin. Calcasieu River, La. This river rises S. W. of Red River, in the parish of Natchitoches ; towards its mouth it expands into a lake 30 miles in length, and from 1 to 10 in width, but it con- tracts again to a river before it enters the Gulf of Mexico. The tide flows above the head of the lake, but both the river and lake are too shallow to be of much service for navigation. Caleebee Creek, Macon co., Aa. x This stream flows N. W. into the Tallapoosa River. Calf-Killer Creek, White co., Te., flows S. W. into the Caney Fork of Cumberland River. Caliboge Sound, S. C., is on the shore 7 miles N. E. of the mouth of Savannah River. Callicoon Creek rises in Liberty, Sullivan co.. N. Y., passes through Coshocton,and empties into the Delaware. Calliou Lake, La., lies in the S. part of Terre Bonne parish. Cambahee River, S. C., is formed by two branches, called the N. and S. Saltketcher, and falls into St. Helena Sound. Camel's Hump, Chittenden co.. Vt. This moun- tain lies in the E. part of Huntington, and is the most elevated summit of the Green Mts., with the exception of the Chin. It is situated 17 miles W. from Montpelier, 25 N. E. from Middlebu-y, and 20 S. E. from Burlington. The summit is con- spicuous from the whole valley of Lake Cham- plain, but is hardly accessible except from the N. When it is reached, however, the prospect which it commands is hardly surpassed in extent and beauty. It is usually ascended by way of Dux- bury, where carriages can approach to within about three miles from the summit. The rocks which compose the mountain are wholly of mica slate, and the Hump is nearly destitute of soil or vegetation. 178 MOUNTAINS, RIVERS, LAKES, &c., Camperfs Creek rises in Wirt, Alleghany co., N. Y., and flows N. E. into Genesee River. Campobello, an English island, off Passama- quoddy Bay, and near the town of Lubec, Me. Canandaigua Lake, N. Y. This beautiful sheet of water lies in Ontario and Yates counties, mostly in the former. It is 14 miles long, and from 1 to li wide. It is elevated 670 feet above the At- lantic, and is surrounded by fertile and highly cul- tivated lands, and the most beautiful scenery. Its waters are deep and clear, and abound with fish. Canandaigua Outlet flows N. E. into Flint Creek, and thence into Clyde and Seneca River. All these -streams afford excellent water power. Canadawa Creek, N. Y. This fine mill stream rises in Arkwright, Chatauque co., and flows N. E. into Lake Erie. On its banks are located several thriving villages and manufacturing estab- lishments. Canadian River, As., flows N. E. into Arkansas River. It is navigable 100 miles. Canadice Lake, Canadice, Otsego co., N. Y., is 3 miles long, and half a mile in width. Canaderaga or Schuyler's Lake, N. Y., is situ- ated in the N. part of Otsego co., and surrounded by hills. Its waters abound in all the fish com- mon in this part of the state. The length of the lake is 5 miles, its average width l miles. Canaderaga Springs, Richfield, Otsego CO., N. Y., are situated about 1 mile N. of Canaderaga Lake, on the Cherry Valley turnpike. They are impregnated with sulphur, and are much visited by invalids. Canasewacta Creek, N. Y., a pretty good mill stream, rises in Otselic, Chenango co., and enters the Chenango River at the village of Norwich. This stream is noted for its fine trout, which are .abundant. Canaveral Cape, Orange co., Fa. This is a point of land on the S. E. part of the county, jut- ting into the Atlantic. Cane Creek, N. C., rises in the Blue Ridge, flows S. W. by W., forming the boundary between Bun- combe and Henderson counties, and empties into the French Broad River. Cane Creek, Pickens district, S. C., unites with the Keowee to form Seneca River. Caneadea Creek rises in Chatauque co., N. Y., flows E., receiving several tributaries, most of which afford good water power, and empties into Genesee River. Caney Fork, Ca. A small "VV. tributary of Grand River. Canisieo River rises in Alleghany co., N. Y.. flows .E., and enters Tioga River, 5 miles above the village of Painted Post, in Steuben co. It is a good mill stream, and is boatable about 40 miles. Its length is 50 miles. Cannon River, Ma. The principal head branches of this river rise in Wita Sheda and Titanka Tinninan Lakes. It flows N. E., and empties into the Mississippi, at the enlargement called Lake Pepin. Cannouchee River, Ga. This is the W. and largest confluent of the Ogechee, being 140 miles long, and navigable 50 miles, to Cedar Creek. Canoe Creek, Henderson co., Ky., flows N. W., and empties into the Ohio at the town of Henderson. Canoe River, On. It rises in the N. part of On. Ter., flows S. W., and falls into Pend Oreilles, or Kulluspelm Lake. Canseraga Creek rises in Alleghany co., N. Y., flows N., and enters the Genesee River in Living- ston co. Several thriving villages and manufac- turing establishments are situated on this stream. Cany Creek, Johnson co., As. A small branch of the Arkansas River. Cape Fear, N. C., is on the S. extremity of Smith's Island, near the mouth of Cape Fear River, in lat 38 48' N. and Ion. 78 9' W. Cape Fear River, N. C. Deep and Haw Rivers unite to form its N. W. branch ; it then, after flow- ing 100 miles, receives the N. E. branch of Clar- endon River, above Wilmington, and 34 miles below it enters the Atlantic by two channels, one on each side of Smith's Island. By means of em- bankments the channel has been deepened, and steamboats now proceed 90 miles, to Fayetteville. at the lowest water. It affords the best naviga- tion of any river in the state. Cape Horn Mountain, N. H. See Northumberland. Cape May, N. J., is situated 1 8 miles N. of Cape Henlopen, on the N. side of Delaware Bay. On it is a light-house. It is 38 57' N. lat., 74 52' W. Ion. See Fashionable Resorts. Cape Vincent, N. Y., formerly called Gravelly Point, lies in the town of Lyme, Jefferson co., between St. Lawrence River and Chaumont Bay. It terminates in a broad, rounded point, on the E. side of Lake Ontario, opposite Fox and Grena- dier Islands. Capers Inlet, Charleston district, S. C. A nar- row passage between Capers and some other small islands. Captina Creek, 0. and Va., falls into the Ohio River, 23 mjles below Wheeling, Va. Cardigan Mountain, N. H. See Orange. Carleton Island, Jefferson co., N. Y., lying in the St. Lawrence River, is equidistant between Grand Island and the American shore, and is at- tached to the town of Lyme. It contains about 1200 acres of good land, and was the scene of some military preparations during the war of 1812. Caribou Lake, Piscataquis co., Me., lies S. W. from Chesuncook Lake, with which it is connected by an outlet. Carlos Bay, Fa. Situated in the Gulf of Mex- ico. Lon. 82 20' W. and lat. 26 40' N. Carp River, Mn.. rises in Chippewa and Mich- ilimackinac counties, flows S. E., and empties into Lake Huron. Carp River, Mn., waters the N. E. part of Schoolcraft co., and empties into Lake Superior. Carr's Mountain, N. H. See Ellsworth. Carson Lake, Uh., lies N. from Walker's Lake, and receives Carson River from the W. Carson River, Ca. and Uh. It rises in the Sierra Nevada, Ca.. and flowing N. E., empties into Carson Lake, Uh. Carter's Mountain, Albemarle co., Va. It lies 2 miles S. from Charlottesville, and is elevated about 800 feet above the Rivanna. Carter's Mountain, N. H., lies between the towns of Adams and Chatham. Cascade Creek, Ma. A small stream emptying into the Mississippi at the Falls of St. Anthony. Cascade Mountains, On. This range extends through the territory, nearly parallel with the Pacific coast. It contains many high peaks, and is crossed near the middle of its course by the Columbia River. Cascadilla Creek rises in Dryden, Tompkins co., N. Y., flows W. through Ithaca, into the S. part of Cayuga Lake. Cascasalica Creek, Ga., rises in the S. W. part IN THE UNITED STATES. 179 of Pulaski co., and flows S. E. into the Ocmulgee River. Casco Bay, Me., situated between Capes Eliz- abeth and Small Point, is o"fce of the finest bays on the American coast. It is 20 miles long, and extends inland about 15 miles. Within it are some of the best harbors in the world. It con- tains numerous islands, some of which are very large, fertile, and well cultivated. The view of the bay and its islands from the high grounds in the vicinity is one of great beauty. Cash River, Is. This stream drains the W. part of Johnson co., flows S. W., separating Pulaski from Alexander co., and empties into the Ken- tucky River. Cashaque Creek rises in Alleghany co., N. Y., flows N., and enters Genesee Elver in Livingston co., near Mount Morris. Cashong Creek rises in Benton, Yates co., N. Y., and flows E. into Lake Seneca. Caspian Lake, Vt. See Greensborough. Cass Bay, Mn. Situated between Grand Island and the main land of Schoolcraft co. Cass Lake, Ma. A large, irregularly-shaped body of water, through which the head waters of the Mississippi River pass. It contains one or two large islands, and has Pike's and Allen's Bays on the S. and S. W. Cass River, Mn., is a branch of the Saginaw, which it enters 20 miles from its mouth. It is an excellent mill stream, and in high water is boata- ble 15 or 20 miles from its mouth. Cassadaga Creek, N. Y. This fine mill stream rises in Cassadaga Lake, Chatauque co., flows S., receiving several tributaries, most of which afford water power, and enters Conewango Creek. Cassadaga Lake, N. Y., is a small sheet of water, lying in the towns of Pomfret and Stoc- ton, Chatauque co. Castete Creek, Franklin co., As. A branch of the Arkansas. Castle Hill, Saugus, Ms. Height 288 feet. Castleton River, Vt., rises in Pittsford, and flows S. and W. through Rutland, Ira, Castleton, and Fair Haven, into Poultney River. In Castleton, it receives the waters of Bombazine Lake, and a considerable mill stream from the N. Length about 20 miles. Castor Creek, Mo. The head branches of this stream water the W. part of Madison co. ; it then flows in a S. direction, and empties into the St. Francis. Cat Island, St. Bernard parish, La., lies in Ship Island Sound, W. from Ship Island. Cat Point, Franklin co., Fa. A point of land extending into Appalachicola Bay. Catahoola Lake, La., lies in "Catahoola and Avoyelles parishes, receives several large streams, and flows into Red and Black Rivers. Catahoola River, La., rises in Claiborne parish, enters a lake on the S. part of Catahoola parish, and after passing through it enters Wachita River. The lake, which is of considerable dimensions, is filled at high water, and nearly or quite dry when the river is low. Catamount Mountains, N. H. See Pittsfield and Allenstown, Catawba River. See Santee River. Catherine's Creek rises in Chemung co., N. Y., flows N., and enters Seneca Lake, of which it is the inlet, at the village of Jefferson. This stream has a descent of 400 feet, in a distance of 1 5 miles, affording extensive water power. Cathlatates River, On. It rises among the Cas- cade Mts., and flows S. into Columbia River. Catistobole River, Fa., drains the W. part of the state, and empties into the Gulf of Mexico. Catskill Creek, N. Y., a good mill stream, rises in Schoharie co., flows through the S. W. corner of Albany co., and enters the Hudson in Greene co. at the village of Catskill. It has a descent of more than 1000 feet in 35 miles. Catskill Mountains, N. Y. A spur from the Sha- wangunk ridge, which is a detached portion of the great Appalachian chain. They extend W. of the Hudson River, in the counties of Ulster, Greene, Albany, and Schoharie, and constitute the largest and most extensive range of moun- tains in the state. Their course is first northerly, near the Hudson, afterwards bending to the W. Their general elevation is about 3000 feet above tide water. Round Top and High Peak, two of the highest summits, as measured by the barom- eter, are, the former, 3804 feet, and the latter 3718 feet above the level of the sea. The Catskill Mountain House, upon a terrace of rock at the eastern extremity of the ridge, 2212 feet above the Hudson, and about 12 miles from the place of landing on the river, is a place of much resort in the summer season, for the clear and bracing atmosphere, and the extensive and beautiful pros- pects there to be enjoyed. See Pine Orchard. Cattaraugus Creek rises in Cattaraugus and Genesee counties, N. Y., flows W., forming the boundary between Cattaraugus and Erie counties, and empties into Lake Erie. It is a fine large stream, and has a fall of 800 feet in about 50 miles, affording extensive water power. Cattotong Creek rises in Tompkins co., N. Y., flows S., and enters the Owego,in Tiogaco., a little above the entrance of the latter stream into the Susquehanna. Caucomgomac Lake, Me. Situated in the W. part of Piscataquis co., and connected by outlets with many small ponds. Cauquaga Creek, Erie co., N. Y., flows W. into Lake Erie, 15 miles S. of Buffalo. Cawenisque River, Pa. A branch of the Tioga, which it enters on the borders of New York. Cayudutta Creek rises in Fulton co., N. Y., flows S., and enters the Mohawk near the village of Fonda, Montgomery co. Cayuga Creek, N. Y., rises in Genesee and Wy- oming counties, flows in a W. direction, and unites with Seneca Creek to form Buffalo Creek, in Erie co. Cayuga Island, N. Y., lies in Niagara River, op- posite Grand Island. It is 1 mile long and a quar- ter of a mile wide. Cayuga Lake, N. Y., lies between Cayuga and Seneca counties, and extends several miles S. into Tompkins co. It is a beautiful sheet of water, about 40 miles long from N. to S., and from 1 t"o 3i miles in width. The outlet flows N. into Seneca River, and thence through the Oswego into Lake Ontario, about 35 miles distant. Its shores, in some places, are precipitous, but generally rise gradually from 100 to 150 feet, covered with highly-cultivated farms and thriving villages. The celebrated " Cayuga bridge," a mile and eight rods in length, crosses this lake at Cayuga village, near its northern extremity ; likewise, the bridge of the Auburn and Rochester Railroad, which is a mile and a half in length. Steamboats run daily between this point and Ithaca, which is beautifully situated at the southern extremity of 180 MOUNTAINS, RIVERS, LAKES, &c., the lake, touching at the several villages and land- ing-places on the eastern and western shores, forming a connection between important routes of travel, and affording one of the most agree- able pleasure excursions. The lake is very deep, in some places, it is said, exceeding 500 feet ; its water is very transparent, and, owing to its depth, rarely closed by ice, even in the severest winters. It abounds with the choicest fish, such as the salmon trout, pickerel, perch, and pike. Cayuta Creek, a rapid mill stream, rises in Ca- yuta Lake, Chemung co., flows in a 8. direction, forming part of the boundary line between Che- mung and Tioga counties, and falls into the Sus- quehanna a short distance below the state line. Cayuta Lake, N. Y. This small body of water lies in the N. part of Chemung, on the confines of Tompkins co. Trout, and other fish of a fine flavor, are abundant in its waters. Cazenove Creek, N. Y. A large, fine mill Stream, rises in Erie co., and enters Buffalo Creek a few miles above its mouth. Cazenovia Lake, Madison co., N. Y. This beautiful lake is situated in the town of the same name. It is 4 miles in length, 1 in width, and abounds with different kinds of fish. Cedar Creek, Monmouth co., N. J. A small stream emptying into the Atlantic opposite Island Beach. Cedar Creek, la., rises in the N. W. part of De Kalb co., flows in a southerly direction, and falls into St. Joseph's River of the Maumee. Cedar Creek, Mo. This stream forms the boundary between Callaway and Boone coun- ties, and empties into the Missouri, opposite Jef- ferson City. Cedar Creek, lo. It rises in Monroe and Lucas counties, and flows N. E. into the Des Moines River. Cedar Creek, Ts. The principal branch of Navisoto River. Cedar Island, Accomac co., Va., lies off the Atlantic coast, opposite the town of Richmond. Cedar Island, Carteret co., N. C. Situated in the S. part of Pamlico Sound, and washed on the N. W. by Long Bay. Cedar Keys, Fa. A small group of islands lying off the mouth of Suwannee River. Cedar Point, St. Mary's co., Md., extends into Chesapeake Bay, just below the mouth of Pa- taxent River. Cedar River, Mn. It drains the W. part of Livingston co., flows N. of W., and empties into Grand River at the city of Lansing. Cedar River, Mn., flows S. S. E., and empties into Green Bay. Cedar River, lo. This river rises in the neutral ground, its head branches draining a large ex- tqnt of country. It flows S. E. through Black- hawk, Benton, Linn, Johnson, and Cedar counties, into Muscatine co., where it turns to the S. W., and falls into Iowa River in Louisa co. Center's River, Wn. It rises in the S. part of Brown co., and flows S. E. into Manitowoc co., where it empties into Manitowoc River. Chagrine River, 0. It rises in the S. W. part of Geauga co., flows in a northerly direction through Cuyahoga and Lake counties into Lake Brie. Champlain, Lake, N. Y. and Vt. This delight- ful expanse of water is the boundary line between New York and Vermont. Vermont embraces about two thirds of its surface. New York is on the W. side, and the counties of Franklin. Chit- tenden, Addison, and a part of Rutland, in the state of Vermont, lie on the E. At the N. it extends a few miles into Canada, and receives the waters of Pike River. It discharges into the St. Lawrence by the Richelieu, Sorel, or Chambly River. Among its tributaries from Vermont are the Missisque, Lamoille, Winooski, Otter, and Pawlet Rivers. From New York it receives the waters of the Chazy, Saranac, Sable, Boquet. and "Wood Rivers, and of Lake George. Its length is about 130 miles : its breadth varies from 1 to 12 miles : average breadth about 3 miles. It abounds with salmon, trout, pickerel, and other fish. It is navigable for vessels of 90 tons' burden, and splendid steamboats are con- tinually plying, in the season of navigation, from Whitehall, along its beautiful shores, to St. John's, in Canada. This lake contains about 60 islands, is remarkable for its splendid scenery, and re- nowned in ancient and modern stories for its scenes of warlike achievements. Lake Cham- plain is a great resort, both for business and pleasure. It is supposed that Lake Champlain once covered a much greater extent than at pres- ent, and that its waters were capable of being navigated by large vessels to the Atlantic Ocean, both by the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the Hud- son River. See Charlotte, Vt. Chandeleur Bay, La. This large bay lies S. from the Chandeleur Islands, E. from Black Bay, and N. from the mouth of the Mississippi River. Chandler's Hill Worcester, Ms. Height 778 ft. Changa Creek, Pickens district, S. C. A branch of the Tugaloo. Chanjushka River, Ma. A large W. tributary of the Mankato. Chanpepenan River, Ma., rises in a lake, flows S. W., and empties into the Missouri River, just above Prospect Island. Chaplain's Fork, Ky., joins the Rolling Fork at Ion. 86 1' W. and lat. 37 34' N. Chariton River, Mo., rises in Iowa, and after a S. course of 130 miles, it empties into the Missouri at the S. extremity of Chariton co. It is boajable for 50 miles. Charity Isles, Mn. Situated at the mouth of Saginaw Bay. Charles River, Ms. The Indian name of this river is Quinobequin. It rises on the borders of Hopkinton and Milford. and flowing thrqugh Bel- lingham, Franklin. Medway, Medfield, Sherburne, Dover, Dedham, Needham, Natick, Newton, Wal- tham, and Watertown, it meets the tide waters, and forms a part of Boston harbor. It is navi- gable to Watertown, 7 miles W. from Boston. Charles River, Washington co., R. I., rises in a pond, and flows in a westerly direction into Paw- catuck River. Charlotte Harbor, Fa. See Gasparilla Sound. Charlotte Lake, N. Y., is a small sheet of water lying in the town of Gallatin, Columbia co. Charlotte River, N. Y., drains the W. part of Schoharie co., flows W. 30 miles through a part of Delaware into Otsego co., where it enters the Susquehanna. Charlotte River, Fa., waters the E. part of the state, and falls into a bay of the same name. Chariton River, Mo., falls into the Missouri, about 220 miles from the Mississippi. Chartiers Creek, Pa., rises in Washington co., and, after a course of 30 miles, falls into the Ohio, 4 miles below Pittsburg. It flows through IN THE UNITED STATES. 161 a fertile country, abounding with bituminous coal. Chatauque Creek, Chatauque co., N. Y., flows N. through a deep ravine into Lake Erie. It af- fords good water power, and a number of manu- facturing establishments are located on its banks. Chatauque Lake, Chatauque co., N. Y., is a beautiful sheet of water, 18 miles in length, and from 1 to 3 miles in width, except near the middle, where it contracts to a few rods. Steamboats as- cend by its outlet from Conewango Creek, and thence to Mayville, on the W. extremity of the lake. It is the highest body of water in the U. S. on which a steamboat floats, being 726 feet above Lake Erie, and 1291 feet above the Atlantic. Chateaugay Lake, N. Y., is situated in Beekman- town, Clinton co., on the borders of Franklin co. It is elevated 1400 feet above the Hudson, is 4 miles long and 2 miles wide. Its waters abound in fish. Chateaugay Mountains, N. Y. This range com- mences in Canada, and extends S. through the N. W. part of Clinton into Franklin co. Some of the highest peaks are in the vicinity of Cha- teaugay Lake, Franklin co. Chateaugay River, N. Y., rises in Clinton and Franklin counties, flows N., and enters the St. Lawrence in Canada. Chattahoochee River rises in the Appalachian Mts., and forms, for a considerable distance, the boundary between Ga. and Aa., and is the largest branch of Appalachicola Kiver. It is navigable for steamboats to Columbus, Ga. Chaumont Bay, N. Y., is situated in the town of Lyme, Jefferson co., E. of Lake Ontario ; it is about 7 miles long, 2 miles wide, of an irregular shape, and abounding in fish. Chaumont River flows into it from the N. Chaumont River, Jefferson co., N. Y., flows 15 miles in a S. direction, and enters Lake Ontario through Chaumont Bay. Chazy Lake, Beekmantown, Clinton co., N. Y., is 4 miles long, and averages 1 mile in width. Chazy River, N. Y., waters the W. part of Clin- ton co., and flows E., in a circuitous course of about 40 miles, into Lake Champlain, in the town of Champlain. It affords good water power. Chazy River, Little, rises in Clinton co., N. Y., flows in an E. direction about 20 miles, through the town of Chazy, into Lake Champlain. Cheat River, Va., an E. branch of the Monon- gahela, is navigable for boats, except in dry sea- sons. * Chedi Hanska Lake, Ma. Situated S. from Tewapa Tankyan Lake. Chegowawegon Point, La Pointe co., Wn., en- closes Chegowawegon Bay on the E. Chemquaassabamtook Stream, Piscataquis co. t Me., is the outlet of a series of ponds, and emp- ties into Alliguash River. Chemung River, N. Y., the main feeder of Che- mung Canal, is formed in Steuben co. by the junction of Conhocton and Tioga Rivers, and flows in a S. E. direction through the county of Chemung into Pa., where it enters the Sus'que- hanna at the village of Athens. It is a good mill stream. Chenango River, N. Y., rises in Madison and Oneida counties, flows through Chenango co., and enters the Susquehanna at the village of Bing- hamton, in Broome co. It runs 75 miles in a S. direction through Chenango valley, and on its banks are several pleasant and thriving villages. It is used to a considerable extent to feed the Chenango Canal, and boats and rafts ascend it 50 miles from the mouth. Cheputnetecook Lakes, Me. See St. Croix River. Chera River, Cherokee co., N. C., enters the Tennessee on the N. W. border of the county. Cheraw Hills, S. C., lie on the W. side of the Great Pedee, 10 miles N. W. from Greenville. Cherry Creek, Samlac co., Mn. A small stream emptying into Lake Huron. Cherry Valley Creek, N. Y., rises in the town of Cherry Valley, and enters the Susquehanna in Otsego co. Chesapeake Bay, Md., the largest bay in the U. S., is about 200 miles long, from 7 to 20 broad, and generally 9 fathoms deep. Its entrance is, in the state of Va., between Cape Charles on the N. and Cape Henry on the S. But the bay lies mostly in Md., dividing the state into two parts, called the eastern and western shores. This great bay furnishes many fine harbors, and a safe and convenient navigation. The principal rivers which flow into it are the Susquehanna on the N., the Potomac on the W., and the James on the W., near its mouth. Besides, there are the Rappahannock, the Patuxent, the Patapsco, Ches- ter. Elk, Choptank, Nanticoke, and many others. The surface drained by the rivers which flow into the Chesapeake has been estimated at 70,000 square miles. Chester River rises in Kent co., De. ; and flowing through Md., empties into a large estuary 01 Chesapeake Bay. It is navigable 30 miles to Chestertown. Chestnut Ridge, Pa. A branch of the Alleghany Mountains, extending through Fayette and West- moreland counties. Chesuncook Lake, Piscataquis co., Me. This lake, through which Penobscot River passes, also receives Kakkoguamook and Umbazookskus Rivers. It is about 25 miles long and 3 miles wide. The surrounding country is very fertile, and well adapted to the growing of wool and wheat. Its centre is about 130 miles W. N. W. from Augusta. Chetimaches Lake, La., is situated between At- chafalaya and Teche Rivers. The former sup- plies its waters in time of high water, and receives them again at all seasons, 15 miles above its en- trance into the sea. The lake is shallow, and sur- rounded by a low, marshy country, which it annu- ally overflows. It is 40 miles long and from 1 to 6 broad. Chew Island, Md. Situated in Eastern Bay, opposite the mouth of Wye River. Chews River, Md. A small tributary of the Chesapeake. Chicago River, Is., which forms the harbor of Chicago, on the S. W. border of Lake Michigan, is composed of two branches. The N., which is about 40 miles long, rises in the N. part of the state, and unites with the S. about three fourths of a mile from its entrance into the lake. The S. branch, which is about 6 miles long, is sufficiently deep to afford a secure harbor for any vessels which navigate the lake. The natural portage from Chicago River to the Des Plaines, a branch of the Illinois, is only 6 miles, and is so low that at high water it is often overflowed, so that boats can pass from one river to the other. Chicagua, or Skunk River, lo. This large river rises mostly in Boone and Story counties, flows S. E., receiving numerous large tributaries 182 MOUNTAINS, RIVERS, LAKES, &c., and falls into the Missouri on the' boundary be- tween Des Moines and Lee counties. Chickahominy River, Va. This river rises about 25 miles N. W. of Richmond, and after a course of 60 miles, forming the boundary between several counties, falls into James River, 37 miles above Point Comfort. Chickamanga River rises in the N. W. part of Ga., and enters the Tennessee, in the state of Te., a few miles above Lookout Mt. Chickasawha River, Mi. See Pascagould. Chickeeles Point, On., encloses Gray's Harbor on the S. Chickeeles River, On. It rises S. from Puget Sound, and flowing N. of W. empties into Gray's Harbor. Chickopee River, Ms. This river has its sources in Spencer, Leicester, and Paxton, and receives the waters of Quaboag Pond, in Brook- field. It crosses Warren. At Palmer it receives Ware and Swift Rivers, and falls into the Con- necticut in the N. part of Springfield. Chico Creek, Ca., rises among the Sierra Ne- vada, and flows S. W. into the Sacramento River. Chimney Point, Addison co., Vt., lies in the town of Addison, opposite Crown Point, and is the most western land in Vt. It was upon this point that the first settlement was made by the French in 1731, and here they erected a stone windmill, which was garrisoned during the colo- nial wars, and hence it has sometimes been called Windmill Point. Chingoleagul Island, Va. A small island lying in the Atlantic, in Ion. 75 26' E. and lat. 37 56' N. Chingoteaque Island, Va. A small island lying in the Atlantic. Chipola River. This river rises in the S. E. part of Aa., takes a southerly course through Jackson and Calhoun counties, Fa., and empties into the Appalachicola River. Chipook Creek, Va. A tributary of James River. Chippewa Bay, N. Y.. in which are situated a portion of the " Thousand Islands," is on the E. side of St. Lawrence River, opposite the town of Hammond, St.Lawrence\co. Chippewa River, Wn., rises on the boundary line between Mn. and Wn., and pursuing a S. course receives several streams, outlets of lakes, and Red Cedar River, when, after a course of 150 miles, it falls into the Mississippi immediately below Lake Pepin. Chippewayan Mountains, or Rocky Mountains. The great spine of North America, extending from the Isthmus of Darien to the Arctic Ocean. That portion which lies within the U. S. is gen- erally called the Rocky Mountains. The great western tributaries of the Mississippi flow from these mountains. Chittenango Creek, N. Y., has its source in the town of Nelson, Madison co., and flows N. into Oneida Lake. Chockoloche Creek, Aa. A branch of the Coosa River, which it enters in Talladega co. Chocolate Creek, Ts. A small stream emptying into the Gulf of Mexico opposite Galveston I. Choctawatchee River rises in Aa., and falls into a bay of the same name in Fa., after a course of 130 miles. Choptank River, Md., E. shore, empties into a large estuary in Chesapeake Bay. It is navigable for sloops 40 miles from its mouth. Chowan River, N. C. This river is formed by the Nottaway, Meherrin, and Blackwater Rivers, which rise in Va. It flows into Albemarle Sound, a little N. of the Roanoke. It is navigable, on the Meherrin Branch, for large vessels to Mur- freesboro', near the line of Va. Chrysopylce, or Golden Gate, Ca. A narrow strait connecting San Francisco Bay with the ocean. Christiana River, or Creek, De., has its head branches in Pa. and Md., and flows into the Brandywine at Wilmington. It is navigable for vessels drawing 9 feet of water to Newport, and those requiring 6 to Christiana bridge, 9 miles above Wilmington. Chrystler's Island, St. Lawrence co., N. Y., lies in the St. Lawrence River, and is attached to the town of Louisville. Chunctanunda Creek rises in Fulton and Sara- toga counties, N. Y., flows S., and enters Mo- hawk River at the village of Amsterdam, Mont- gomery co. Church Island, N. C., lies in Currituck Sound. City Island, N. Y., lies in East River, and is attached to the town of Pelham, Westchester co. It is 2 miles long, and 1 mile wide. Clam River, Wn., drains the N. part of St. Croix co., flowing W. into St. Croix River. Clarion River, or Great Toby's Creek, Pa., rises in McKean co., and after a S. W. course of 70 miles, falls into Alleghany River. It is navigable 55 miles for boais, and for canoes 10 miles farther. Vast quantities of lumber are sent down this river to Pittsburg. and towns on the Ohio. Claries River, Ky., rises on the N. border of Te. ; flows N. N. W., and empties into the Ohio at its junction with the Tennessee. Clarice, or Flathead River, On. Ter., a tributary of the Columbia, rises in the Rocky Mountains." Clarksburg Mountain, Clarksburg, Ms. Height 2272 feet. Claverack Creek, Columbia co., N. Y., flows into Kinderhook Creek. Several factories and mills are located on this stream and its tributaries. Clay Lick Creek, Crittenden co., Ky., a small branch of the Cumberland River. Clear Creek rises in Chatauque co., N. Y., and flows into Conewango Creek, in Cattaraugus co. Clear Lake, N. Y., is one of a small cluster, situated in the town of Alexandria, Jefferson co. Clear Lake, Barry co., Mn. A small body of water lying in the S. interior of the county. Clearfteld Creek, Pa., a large branch of the W. fork of the Susquehanna, rises in Cambria co. Clear Stream River, N,. H., rises in the moun- tains in the town of Dixville, and passes through the centre of Erroll into the Androscoggin, about 3 miles W. from Umbagog Lake. Cliffy River, Va., falls into Kanawha in Ion. 81 8' W. and lat. 37 52' N. Clifton Springs, Manchester, Ontario co., N. Y. These sulphur springs are situated on the line of the Auburn and Rochester Railroad, and are considerably resorted to for medicinal purposes. Clifty Creek, White co., Te. A small tributary of the Caney Fork of Cumberland River. Clinch River, Va. and Te., rises in Va., and, after a course of 200 miles, unites with Holston River at Kingston, and forms the Tennessee. It is boatable through most of its course. Clinton, Fort, N. Y. See Montgomery, Fort. Clinton Mountains, N. Y. The N. range of mountains in this state is sometimes so called See Adirondack Mountains. Clinton River, Mn. This stream drains Oak IN THE UNITED STATES. 183 land and Macomb counties, and falls into JLake St. Glair. Cloquet River, Ma. This river is supplied by a series of small lakes, and flows S. W. into St. Louis River. Closter Mountains, or Palisade Range, com- mences in N. J., enters N. Y. in Rockland co., near the margin of the Hudson, and extends N. to Verdrietje's Hook, in Clarkstown. The ridge known as Nyack Hills affords excellent red and brown sandstone, which is extensively quarried. The highest peak of this range rises about 1000 feet above the Hudson, and the Palisades are re- markable for their picturesque appearance, being in some places almost perpendicular. Clove Kill rises in Union Vale, Dutchess co., N. Y., flows S. W., and enters the Fishkill, of which it is a head branch, at Beekman. Clyde River, Vt., rises in Pitkin's and Knowl- ton's Ponds, in the town of Brighton, flows N. W. through Charleston, Salem, and Derby, and emp- ties into Lake Memphremagog. This is a slug- gish stream, with the exception of a few short rapids, until it comes within 3 miles of Lake Memphremagog. It runs through Round Pond, in Charleston, and through Salem Lake, a fine sheet of water nearly 2 miles in length and 1 mile in width, lying in the towns of Salem and Derby. Clyde River, N. Y., is formed in Wayne co. by the junction of Flint and Mud Creeks, and enters Seneca River after an E. course of 20 miles. Coal River, Va. A fine mill stream rising in the S. W. part of Fayette co., and flowing N. W., partly on the boundary between Kanawha and Boone counties, into the Great Kanawha River. Coal Fire Creek, Pickens co., Aa. A small branch of the Tombigbee River. Coan River, Northumberland co., Va. A small stream emptying into Chesapeake Bay. Cobbessecontee Waters, Me. This pond is a fine sheet of water, lying W. of Hallowcll. and con- nected with smaller ponds, situated in the towns of Monmouth, Winthrop, Readfield, and Mount Vernon. The outlet of the pond, a river of the same name, after passing through another beau- tiful pond, enters the Kennebec River at Gardiner. These waters afford charming scenery, great water power, and abundance of fish. Cobscook Bay. Me. This large bay, situated W. of Passamaquoddy Bay, receives as its tributaries a number of large poncls. See Eastport. Cocheco River, N. II. See Dover. Cod, Cape. See Barnstable County. Goddess Hill, Marblehead, Ms. Codorus Creek, Pa., after a course of 30 miles, fails into the Susquehanna, near New Holland village. Coeymans Creek rises in New Scotland, Albany co., N. Y., and flows into the Hudson at the town of Coeymans. Co/wa Rivers, Little and Great, N. C. They drain the interior of Sampson co., unite in the S. part, and their waters, flowing S., fall into South River, in New Hanover co. Cohoes Falls, N. Y., on the Mohawk River, near Cohoes village, is an object of great attraction for visitors from all parts of the Union, during the summer. Besides a rapid descent above and be- low, the river has a perpendicular fall of 70 feet at this place. Its banks present a grand and pic- turesque appearance, rising to the almost perpen- dicular height of from 50 to 120 feet for the dis- tance of half a mile below the falls, where is erected a substantial bridge across the stream, 800 ft. long, presenting a beautiful view of the cataract Cohuttah Spring, Murray co., Ga., one of the most valuable mineral springs in this part of the country, is situated at the base of Cohuttah Moun tain, and on the S. side of a beautiful little stream which issues from the mountain and enters Con nesauga Creek 6 miles below. Cold Creek, N. Y., a good mill stream, rises in Centreville, Alleghany co., and flows E. into Gen- eseo River. Cold River, N. H. See Acworth. Cold Camp Creek, Benton co., Mo. A branch of Osage River, which it enters from the N. Cold Water River, Mi. This river rises in Marshall co., flows W. through De Soto co. into Tunica co., where it connects with the Mississippi by means of an outlet ; it then pursues a winding southerly course until its entrance into the Talla- hatchee. Colleberg Mountains, or Hills, N. Y., lie S. of the " Highlands," in the town of Cortland, West- chester co. Collins River, Grundy co. Te. A head branch of the Caney Fork of Cumberland River. Colonel's Mountain, Palmer, Ms. Ht. 1172 feet. Colorado Hills, Ts. A range extending along the Colorado River, N. from the city of Austin. Colorado River, Ts. The head branches of this large river rise in the mountains in the W. part of the state ; it then flows S. E., draining a large extent of country, and empties into Matagorda Columbia River, the great river of Oregon, the territory west of the Rocky Mts. Its sources are among the most elevated valleys in those moun- tain ranges, interlocking with those of the Missou- ri, the Rio Grande delNorte of the Gulf of Mexico, the Colorado of the Gulf of California, and the Buenaventura of the Pacific Ocean. It is composed of two great constituent branches, the Lewis Rirer and the Clarke River, which take their names from their discoverers, Captains Lewis and Clarke, who, in 1804-5. under the direction of the United States government, explored the country from the mouth of the Missouri to the mouth of the Colum- bia. Clarke River, which is the great tributary of the Columbia from the north, is likewise con- stituted by two main branches. The northern branch takes its rise in about 50 N. lat. and 116 "W". Ion., and pursues a northern route at first, to near McGillivray's Pass in the Rocky Mountains, where it receives Canoe River, at an elevation of 3600 feet above the level of the sea. It then turns S., and receives many tributaries in Jits course, among which are the Cootanie, or Flat Bow, and the Flat Head, or Clarke River proper. It pursues this general course among high mountains, often expanding into lakes, until it reaches Fort Colville, a distance in this direction of 220 miles, where it is still at an elevation of 2049 feet above the level of the sea. Passing this point, it tends towards the W. ; and after receiv- ing Spokan River from the E., it pursues a still more westerly coui-se for 60 miles ; when, bend- ing again to the S., it receives Okanagan River, which is the outlet of a line of lakes extensively navigable for canoes. Thence it passes on south- ward until it reaches Wallawalla, and here, in 45 N. lat, it forms a junction with Lewis River^ the other great tributary, coming from the S. E> The entire valley of Clarke River embraces an area of 75,000 square miles ; and the entire com- 184 MOUNTAINS, RIVERS, LAKES, &c., parative course of the river to this point is about 800 miles. Lewis River takes its rise in the ele- vated regions of the Chippewayan system, about 10 degrees of latitude S. of the sources of Clarke River, and is, perhaps, of the two rivers, the main constituent of the Columbia. It pur- sues a northwesterly course, receiving large tribu- taries from both sides, particularly from the E., until, after a course of about 520 miles, it unites with Clarke River, the great northern tributary at Wallawalla. The valley of Lewis River ex- ceeds an area of 100.000 square miles. Com- bining the two valleys of Lewis and Clarke Rivers,, and measuring from the most northern source of the latter to the most southern source of the former, gives an entire breadth, for the sources of the Columbia, along the sides and summits of the Chippewayan range, of about 1000 miles from N. to S. After the confluence of these two large streams, the Columbia, which now carries a volume of water 3500 feet wide, and has yet to traverse a distance of about 300 miles, and make a descent of nearly 1300 feet, before reaching the Pacific, takes its final direc- tion to the westward, pursuing a rapid course for 80 miles, to its passage through the range of Cascade Mountains, so called from the series of falls and rapids over which the waters of the river are carried, at this point, opposing an insur- mountable obstruction to boat navigation. From Wallawalla to this pass, the Umatilla, Quisnel's, John Day's and Chute Rivers are received from the S., and Cathlatate's River from the N. From these falls there is still water navigation for 40 miles, when it is again interrupted by rapids. Thence to the ocean, a distance of 120 miles, the river is navigable, even at the lowest stages, for vessels requiring 12 feet of water, though ob- structed more or less by many sand bars. In this part of its course, it receives the Willamette from the S., and the Cowelitz from the N. The width of the Columbia is greatly enlarged within the last 20 miles, and where it, enters the ocean, between Point Adams and Cape Disappointment, it is about 7 miles across. There are flats and sand bars which extend nearly across the mouth between these points, and render the entrance of ships somewhat dangerous ; though it would ap- pear, from surveys and soundings, that there are about 20 feet of water over these flats at low tide ; and that, in the channel, which lies near to Cape Disappointment, the depth of water is not less than 24 feet. The tide from the ocean flows back into the river nearly the whole distance to the grand rapids ; and the reflux at Cape Disap- pointment, where the rise is about 9 feet, is gen- erally, in the spring, 5 or 6 knots an hour. On the 7th of May, 1792, Captain Robert Gray, in the ship Columbia, of Boston, discovered and entered the mouth of this majestic stream, and, giving it the name of the vessel in which he sailed, called it the Columbia River. He was the first person who established the fact of its exist- ence, and gave the title, from discovery, to the United States. In 1 804-5, Lewis and Clarke made the first exploration of the river ever made by civilized men, and passed the winter of 1805-6 at its mouth. The Missouri Fur Company, in 1808, established a trading-house on Lewis River, the first ever formed on the waters of the Columbia ; and, in 1811, Astoria was founded, at the mouth of the river, by the Pacific Fur Company, under John Jacob Astor, of New York. Columbus, Fort, N. Y. See Governor's Island. Comite River, Mi. and La., rises in Mi., and running into La., unites with the Amite 12 miles E. from Baton Rouge. Compadre River, Ca. It rises in two widely- spread forks, which unite and flow N. W. into Eagle River. Conception Point, or Punta Conception, Ca. Sit- uated on the Pacific coast W. from the town of Santa Barbara. Concord River, Ms., is formed at Concord by the junction of Assabet and Sudbury Rivers : after passing through the towns of Bedford, Bil- lerica, and Chelmsford, it falls into the Merrimac, between Lowell and Tewksbury. Concordia Lake, La., was evidently, in former times, the bed of the Mississippi, and in seasons of very high flood, the water from the Mississippi flows into it, through a small bayou, and passes into Bayou Tensas. Conecuh River rises in Pike co., Aa., and flows through Fa. into Pensacola Bay. Two miles below the Fa. line, it unites with the Escambia, a river of inferior size, the name of which, however, it afterwards assumes. It is navigable for more than 100 miles, but the country is sterile. Conedogwinit Creek, Pa., runsE., and discharges its waters into the Susquehanna, a little above Harrisburg. Conemaugh River, Pa, It rises in the Alle- ghany Mts., and flows W. N. W. into the Alle- ghany, 29 miles N. N. E. of Pittsburg. In the lower part of its course it takes the name of Kiskeminetas. s Fifteen miles N. E. of Greens- burg it has salt works on both its banks. Its length is about 150 miles. Conequenessing Creek, Pa., falls into the Mahon- ing, 12 miles from its mouth. Conescheague Creek is formed by two branches, which rise in Pa., and unite 3 miles N. of Md. line ; it then passes through Md., and empties into the Potomac, at Williamsport. Ooneseus Lake, Livingston co., N. Y. This lake is 9 miles long, 1 mile wide, and is said to exceed 300 feet in depth. It is well stocked with fish, and its waters are pure and cold. Conestoga River, Lancaster co., Pa., enters the Susquehanna 10 miles below Columbia. Conewago Creek, or River, Pa., rises in Adams co., and after a course of 40 miles, falls into the Susquehanna, opposite Bainbridge. Conewago Creek, Pa. This river enters the Susquehanua 5 miles below Middletown, after a W. S. W. course of 15 miles. Coney Island, King's co., N. Y., forms a part of the town of Gravesend. It is much resorted toby visitors for sea air and bathing, as it directly faces the Atlantic, being divided from the main land by a narrow channel, over which is a toll bridge. There is no more convenient and de- sirable watering-place in the vicinity of New York than this island. It is 4 miles long, and averages half a mile in width. Congaree Creek, Lexington district, S. C. A branch of the Congaree River, -which it enters a little below Columbia. Congaree River, S. C., which is formed by the union of the Broad and Saluda at Columbia after a course of 30 miles, unites with the Wa- teree to form Santee River. Conhocton River rises in Steuben co., N. Y., and unites with the Tioga to form Chemung River, near the village of Painted Post. There are a IN THE UNITED STATES. 185 number of fine mill sites on this river and its tributaries, and it is navigable for arks and rafts to the village of Bath, during high water. Its length is 55 miles. ^ Connanicut Island, Newport co., R. I. Situated in Narraganset Bay, S. S. W. from Prudence Island. Conneaut Creek, 0. and Pa., has its sources in Erie and Crawford counties, Pa., and Ashtabula co., 0., and enters Lake Erie in the latter county. Connecticut Creek, Long Island, N. Y., rises in Brookhaven, Suffolk co., and runs S., into Fire- place Bay. Connecticut, Lake, N. H. This lake, which is the source of one of the principal branches of the Connecticut, lies in lat. 45 2', and is 5i miles in length, and 2^ in width. It is supplied by several small streams rising in the highlands N. from the lake. Its waters are remarkably clear, containing abundance of fish, and the scenery on its banks is very beautiful. Connecticut River. This beautiful river, the Quonektacut of the Indians, and the pride of the Yankees, has its sources in N. H., and the moun- tainous tracts in Canada. Its name in the In- dian language is said to signify Long River, or, as some.render it, River of Pines. Its general course is N. and S. After forming the boundary line between N. H. and Vt., it crosses the western part of Ms., passes the state of Ct. nearly in its cen- tre; and, after a fall of 1600 feet, from its head, N. of lat. 45, it falls into Long Island Sound, in lat. 41 16'. The breadth of this river, at its en- trance into Vt., is about 150 feet, and in its course of 60 miles, it increases to about 390 feet. In Ms. and Ct., its breadth may be estimated from 450 to 1050 feet. It is navigable to Hartford, 45 miles, for vessels of considerable burden, and to Middletown, 30 miles from the sea, for vessels drawing 1 2 feet of water. By means of canals and other improvements, it has been made navi- gable for boats to Fifteen Mile Falls, nearly 250 miles above Hartford. The most considerable rapids in this river are Bellows Falls ; the Falls of Qucechy, just below the mouth of Water- queechy River ; the White River Falls, below Hanover ; and the Fifteen Mile Falls, in N. H. and Vt. ; the Falls at Montague and Holyoke, in Ms., and the Falls at Enfield, in Ct., where it meets the tide water. The perpendicular height of the falls, which have been overcome by dams and locks between Springfield, in Ms., and Han- over, in N. H., a distance of 130 miles, is 240 feet. Bars of sand and gravel extend across this river in various places, over which boats with difficulty pass in low water. The most important tributa- ries to the Connecticut, in N. H., are Upper and Lower Amonoosuck, Israel's, John's, Mascomy, Sugar, and Ashuelot Rivers ; in Vt., Nulhegan, Passumpsic, Wells, Wait's, Ompomponoosuck, White, Waterqueechy, Black, Williams, Saxton's, and West Rivers; in Ms., Miller's, Deerfield, Agawam, Chickopee, and Westfield Rivers ; and the Farmington, in Ct. The intervales are gen- erally spread upon one or both sides of the river, nearly on a level with its banks, and extending from half a mile to five miles in breadth ; but its borders are in some places high, rocky, and pre- cipitous. In the spring it overflows its banks, and, through its winding course of nearly 400 miles, forms and fertilizes a vast tract of rich meadow. In point of length, utility, and beauty, this river forms a distinguished feature of New 24 England. Large quantities of shad are taken in this river, but the salmon, which formerly were very plenty, have entirely disappeared. Con- necticut River passes through a basin or valley of about 12,000 square miles; it is decorated, on each side, with towns and villages of superior beauty, and presents to the eye a wonderful variety of enchanting scenery. Connesauga River, Ga. This river has its sourctr in Glimmer co., Ga., flows N. W., making a curve into Te., and then takes a winding southerly course, until its junction with the Coosawattee, to form the Oostenaula. Connewango Creek rises in Chatauque and Cat- taraugus counties, N. Y., and flows W. into the Alleghany. This stream is boatable during high water, and numerous rafts also descend it during certain seasons of the year. Chatauque Lake, and a number of other tributaries, flow into it. Conoloway Creek, Pa., falls into the Potomac, near Hancock's Town, Md. Constitution Island, N. Y., on which, during the revolution, some fortifications were erected, lies in the Hudson River, opposite West Point. Contoocook River, N. H. This is a stream of considerable length and importance, originating in several ponds in Jeffrey and Rindge, and flow- ing N. it receives tributaries from Dublin, Peter- borough, Sharon, Nelson, Stoddard, Washington, Antrim, Deering, and Hillsborough. In Hillsbor- ough it takes a N.E. and E. direction, and proceeds through Henniker to Hopkinton, where it receives Warner and Blackwater Rivers. From Hopkin- ton it pursues a winding course through Concord, and falls into the Merrimack between Concord and Boscawen. Near the mouth of this river is Duston's Island, celebrated as the spot where Mrs. Duston destroyed several Indians, in 1698. Conway Peak, or Chocorua Mountain, N. H. See Albany. Cooper River, S. C., together with Ashley River, forms Charleston harbor, entering the Ashley on the E. side of the city. A canal 21 miles long unites this river with the Santee. Coosa River, Aa., rises in the N. part of Oa., runs S. W. into Aa., and unites with the Talla- poosa to form Alabama River, 8 miles below We- tumpka. The Coosa is navigable for steamboats 8 miles above the junction. Its whole length is about 240 miles. Coosaw River, Beaufort district, S. C. A kind of a strait connecting Broad River with St. Helena Sound. Coosawhatchie River, S. C., runs S. S. E., and empties into Broad River. An eastern outlet, called Whale Branch, and also Coosaw River, forms the Island of Port Royal. Coosawattee River, Ga. Ellijay and Carticary Creeks unite to form this river, which receives several large branches, the principal of which are Talkey, Rock, and Calico Creeks, and flows in a winding S. W. course until it unites with the Con- nesauga to form the Oostenaula. ' Copake Creek, N. Y., a branch of Claverack stream, rises in Columbia co. Several factories and mills are located on this stream. Copake Lake, Copake, Columbia co., N. Y., covers about 600 acres. Its shores are gently undulating and highly cultivated, and its waters pure and clear. Copecut Mountain, Fall River, Ms. Height 355 feet. Copper Creek, Va., rises in the S. part of Rus- 186 MOUNTAINS, RIVERS, LAKES, &c., sell co., flows S. W., and falls into Clinch River, in Scott co. Copper Harbor, Houghton co., Mn. Situated on the N. coast of Keewaiwona Point. Corbeau Creek rises in Chazy, Clinton co., N. Y., flows N. E., and enters the Chazy River at the village of Corbeau, in the town of Champlain. Core Sound, N. C., opens on the N. E. into Pam- lico Sound. It is 40 miles long. The island which encloses it contains Cape Lookout on its S. extremity. Corlcin's Creek, Pa., falls into the Delaware River in Ion. 75 10' W. and lat. 41 18' N. Corpus Christi Pass, Ts. The passage between two islands which lie at the mouth of Nueces River, and opposite the town of Corpus Christi. CortaUeau River, La., flows into the Atcha- falaya. It is 35 miles long. Coteau Percee Creek, Ma. It vises in the Benton Lakes, flows S. W., and falls into the Sioux River. Cote Blanche Bay, La. This bay sets up from the Gulf of Mexico, and connects on the.N. W. with Vermilion Bay. Cotentnea River, N. C. A branch of the Neuse River, which it enters on the boundary between Pitt and Lenoir counties. Cottonwood Creek, Ca. It rises among the Coast Mts., flows E., and empties into the Rio Sacra- mento, of which it is a head branch. Cottonwood Fork, Ca. A small W. branch of Grand River. Coupe River, On. An E. branch of the Willa- mette River, which it enters below the Sandehan. Cove Point, Calvert co., Md. A small point of land projecting into Chesapeake Bay. Cow Bay, North Hempstead, Queen's co., N. Y., an arm of Long Island Sound, extends inland about 5 miles. It is navigable for steamboats, and is partly surrounded by highly cultivated farms and country seats. Cow Neck, North Hempstead, Queen's co., N. Y., a point of land about 6 miles long and 2i miles wide, lies between Hempstead harbor on the E. and Cow Bay on the W. Sands' Point is on the N. part. Cowikee Creek, Aa. This stream is formed by the junction of three principal forks, and enters the Chattahoochee in Barbour co. Coxsackie Creek rises in Greene co., N. Y., flows N. E., and enters the Hudson in the town of New Baltimore. Crab, or Hospital Island, N. Y., a part of the town of Plattsburg, Clinton co., lies in Lake Champlain, near Cumberland Head. Crab-Tree Creek, Wake co. ? N. C., rises in the S. W. part of Wake co., takes a circuitous easterly course, and falls into the Neuse River. Crabb River, Alleghany co., Md. A small trib- utary of the'N. fork of the" Potomac River. Craig's Creek, Bottetourt co., Va., is formed in the S. W. part of the county by the junction of two branches, flows N. E., and empties into Cow Pasture River. Cranberry Islands, Hancock co., Me. These islands lie a few miles E. by S. from Mount Desert, and embrace Great and Little Cranberry, Sutton's and Baker's Islands, and were attached to the town of Mount Desert until 1830, when they were incorporated. They afford good harbors, and are well located for the shore fishery. Cranberry Lake, N. Y. This small sheet of water is situated in the S. part of Parishville, St. Lawrence co. Crane Island, N. C., lies in Hunting Sound, and is about 6 miles in length. Crane Island lies in the Potomac, 30 miles S. W from Annapolis. Crane Lake, lo. A small sheet of water sit- uated near the head of Iowa River. Crane Neck, in the town of Brookhaven, Suf- folk co., N. Y., is a broad peninsula, extending into Long Island Sound. Craney Island, Va., lies in Hampton Road, at the mouth of Elizabeth River, 5 miles S. W. from Fort George. A strong fort on this island defends the entrance of James and Elizabeth Rivers. Crendrick Lake, N. C. Situated in Ion. 76 55' W., lat. 35 46' N. Cripple Creek, Va., rises in the E. part of Smyth co., flows N. of E., and empties into New River. Croatan Sound, N. C. Situated between Roan- oke Island and the main land of Tyrel co. It contains several small islands. Crockery Creek, Mn., rises in Kent and Neeway- go counties, and flows S. W. across a part of Ottowa co. into Grand River. Crooked Creek, Is. It rises in the N. W. part of McDonough co., flows S.E., and empties into the Illinois River, between Schuyler and B.rown counties. Crooked Creek, As. This stream rises in the S. part of Carroll co., pursues a very winding course, and falls into White River, having formed a part of the boundary between Marion and Searcy counties. Crooked Lake, N. Y., lies chiefly in Steuben co., but extends N. into Yates co.; is 18 miles long, and \\ miles wide. Near the centre it separates into two forks, running northward, one 1 2 miles and the other 8, and receding from each other, until, at their extremities, they are 5 miles dis- tant. At the point of their separation, a high promontory, called Bluff Point, rises from the water 800 feet. The outlet is at the north end of the eastern branch, running 7 miles E. by N., until it falls into Seneca Lake, at Dresden. This stream, in its course, has a fall of 269 feet, afford- ing an excellent water power. Upon it, about one mile below the outlet of the lake, stands the village of Penn Yan. From this place to Seneca Lake, a canal, called " Crooked Lake Canal," has been constructed, with 27 locks, at a cost of $137,000. Through Seneca Lake, this navigable communication is continued to the Erie Canal. In the opposite direction, a steamboat plies daily between Penn Yan and Hammond's Port, at the S. end of Crooked Lake. Crooked Lake, Mn. Situated in the N. W. part of Wyandot co. It receives the waters of several streams, and connects by its outlet with Cheboy- gan River. Crooked River, Oxford co., Me. This river joins the outlet of Long Pond, and falls into Sebago Lake. Crooked River, Ky. A small branch of the E. fork of Salt River, forming the boundary between Anderson and Spencer counties. Cross Island, Me. An island 3 miles long and 2 wide, lying off Machias Bay, and attached to the town of Cutler. Cross Creek, or River, rises in Westchester co., N. Y., and flows E. into Croton River, in the town of Lewisborough. Cross Lake, N. Y., through which flows Seneca ' River, lies between the counties of Cayuga and IN THE UNITED STATES. 187 Onondaga ; it is 4 miles long and half a mile in width. Crotched Lake, N. Y., lying between Racket and Long Lakes, in the N. part^of Hamilton co., is an irregular body of water^as the name im- plies. Pahmechinbaguck water right across us is said to be the Indian name. Croton River, N. Y., rises in several beautiful lakes in Dutchess and Putnam counties, flows in a S. W. direction, and enters the Hudson in Westchester co., about two miles above the vil- lage of Sing Sing. This river is the source of the Croton Aqueduct. Crow Creek, Is., rises in the W. part of Liv- ingston co., and flows W. into the Illinois River. Crow Islands, N. Y. This cluster of small islands is situated in Huntington Bay. Crow's Nest, N. Y., a high peak of the " High- lauds," is situated in the town of Cornwall, Orange co., on the W. side of the Hudson. Crow River, Ma. This river rises in two large forks, flows in an easterly direction, and empties into the Mississippi N. W. from Rum River. Crow Wing River, Ma. This river rises among the labyrinth of lakes in the N. part of the terri- tory, flows S. E., and empties into the Mississippi just below Gayashk Lake. Crum or Crom Elbow, N. Y., 4 miles above Poughkeepsie, is formed by a sudden turn of Hud- son River. Crum Elbow Creek, Dutchess co., N. Y., rises in the towns of Clinton and Rhinebeck, and flows S. W. through Hydepark into the Hudson. It is a pretty good mill stream. Crumhorn Mountain, N. Y., situated in the town of Maryland, Otsego co., is a wild and barren eminence. CrydeSs Creek, N. Y., rises in the town of Inde- pendence, Alleghany co., and flowing S. W. enters Genesee River in the state of Pa. Crystal Lake, N. Y., is one of a small cluster lying in the town of Alexandria, Jefferson co. Cub Creek, Te., rises in the N. part of Hender- son co., flows S. E., and falls into the Tennessee River. Cubb Creek, Va., rises in the S. part of Appo- mattox co., and flows S. into the Roanoke River. Cumberland Bay, N. Y., situated in Lake Cham- plain, opposite the village of Plattsburg, is en- closed by Cumberland Head, a point of land on the W. shore, stretching 4 miles into the lake. Macdonough gained his famous naval victory over the British, under Com. Downie, in this bay, on the llth September, 1814. Cumberland Head, N. Y., projects into Lake Champlain, N. from Plattsburg, and opposite South Hero. Cumberland Island, Camden co., Ga. This is quite a large island, lying between St. Andrew's Sound on the N. and St. Mary's Sound on the S. The N. part is cut off by a small river, and called Little Cumberland Island. On the S. part is the Dungeness light-house. Cumberland Mountains, Te. This range com- mences in the S. W. part of Pa., takes the name of Laurel Mts. in Va., passes through the S. E. part of Ky. and Te., and terminates in the N. part of Aa. Cumberland River, a large river of Ky. and Te., rises in Ky., on the W. slope of the Cumberland Mts., near the boundary of Va., and pursues a very circuitous course to the Ohio, which it enters about 12 miles above the entrance of the Ten- nessee. The elevation of its sources above its mouth is supposed to exceed 1000 feet. Its course is first W. and S. W. until it enters Te., and, bearing still S., passes round with an extensive sweep to Nashville. Its course is then north- westerly until it reenters Ky., and flows in this direction about 50 miles across the state to its junction with the Ohio. Its comparative length is about 450 miles ; although from the great tortu- ousness of its channel, its entire length, following the course of the stream, cannot be less than 600 miles. Without reference' to the inflections of the river itself, the valley which it drains is 350 miles long, with an average breadth of 50 miles, comprehending an area of 17,500 square miles, which, in superficies, is the third in rank of those of the tributaries of the Ohio. The greatest part of this valley lies between lat. 36 and 37, and Ion. 6 and 12 W. from Washington. In an or- dinary stage of water, the river is navigable for vessels and large steamboats to Nashville, 200 miles, and for boats of 15 tons 300 miles farther. For half its length it is navigable for small craft at all seasons. The Cumberland is the second river in size that enters the Ohio, being inferior only to the Tennessee. Cunningham's Island, O. Situated in Lake Erie, N. from the mouth of Sandusky Bay. Current River, Mo. and As., rises in the Ozark Ridge, Mo., and, taking a course of about 150 miles, falls into Black River. Currituck Island, Sound, and Inlet, Currituck co., N. C. The island which encloses the sound is 30 miles long and 2 broad. The sound is 50 miles long, from 1 to 10 broad, and rather shallow. The inlet is a narrow entrance into the sound between two islands. Cutfoot Creek, N. C. A small branch of Neuse River. Cuyatwga River, 0. This river rises in Geauga co., runs southerly through Portage co., then pro- ceeds in a N. N. W. direction through Summit and Cuyahoga counties to its entrance into Lake Erie, at Cleveland. It is one of the most impor- tant rivers in Northern 0., its length being over 60 miles. Its falls, which are numerous, afford fine mill seats, and it is but little affected by drought. Cypress Creek, As. It rises in the E. part of Van Buren co., flows S. W., and empties into the Arkansas at Cadron. Cypress Creek, La. A head branch of the Mid- dle Fork of Bayou d'Arbone. Dacheet River, rises in As., and flowing S. into La., falls into Lake Bistineau. Daddy's Creek, Te., rises in Bledsoe co., flows N. E., and unites with Obed's River near its en- trance into Emery's River. Damariscotta River, Lincoln co., Me. This broad arm of the sea has its source in several ponds in Jeffersqn and Nobleborough. It flows in a southerly direction, between Newcastle, Edgecomb, and Boothbay on the W., and Bristol on the E. It is navigable for vessels of any bur- den to the bridge, which crosses it between New- castle and Nobleborough, a distance of 16 miles. Large quantities of lumber descend this stream, and many merchant ships are built on its borders. Damiscove Island, Me., lies off the ' town of Boothbay, Lincoln co. Dan River, N. C. and Va., unites with Stanton River in Va., and forms the Roanoke. It has f^lls of 23 feet at Danville, but by a canal con- 188 MOUNTAINS, RIVERS, LAKES, &c., structed around them, is navigable 100 miles from its mouth. D'Arbone, Bayou, La. This stream rises in Claiborne parish, flows in a S. E. direction, and enters the Wachita River in Wachita parish. Darby Creek, O., rises in Union co., and after a S. E. course of 60 miles, enters the Sciota, nearly opposite Circleville. Dartiga Lake, Nachitoches and Rapides par- ishes. La. This lake receives a river of the same name from the N. W., and connects on the S. with Red River. Dauphin Islands, Great and Little., Aa., lie at the mouth of Mobile Bay, and are attached to Mobile co. Daivfuskey Island, S. C., is 7 miles long, and 2<| miles broad, and lies 3 miles N. E. from the mouth of the Savannah. Dead River, Me. This important tributary of the Kennebec rises on the border of Lower Can- ada, in Franklin co. It flows 40 or 50 miles in a S. E. direction, then N. about 10 miles ; it then turns to the E., and flows about 15 miles to its entrance into the Kennebec, about 20 miles below Mooschead Lake. The land on its borders is fertile and heavily wooded. Dead River, N. H., rises in the N. W. corner of the state, in Coos co., and after receiving several tributaries, empties into the Margallaway. Dead Stream, Me., is a W. tributary of the Pe- nobscot, which it enters at Orono, opposite Indian Village. Dead Fish Lake, Ma. Situated N. W. from Seven Beaver Lake, and at the head of Second Embarras River. Deadman's Bay, Fa. A curvature of the coast in Madison co. De Chute River rises in the E. part of Aroos- took co., Me., and flows E. into Canada, where it enters the St. John's River. Decker's Creek, Is. A small branch of Bear Creek, which it enters in Hancock co. Deep Creek, lo. A S. branch of the Maco- quetais River, which it enters in Jackson co. Deep River, N. C., unites with the Haw to form the N. W. branch of Cape Fear River. Deer Creek, N. Y., rises in Lewis co., and flows N. E. into Black River. Deer River, N. Y., rises in Franklin co., flows N. W., and enters the St. Regis in St. Lawrence co. Deer Creek, Hartford co., Md., empties into the Susquehanna. Deer Creek, Perry co., la. A small branch of Ohio River. Deer Creek, Ca., rises among the Sierra Nevada, and flows S. W. into the Rio Sacramento. Deer Islands. A group of islands, five in num- ber, lying in the Connecticut River, between the towns of Lyman and Barnet, Vt. The largest of these islands contains 38 acres of land. Deer Island, Hancock co., Me., lies in Penob- scot Bay, off the town of Sedgwick. See the town of Deer Isle. Deerfield River, Vt. and Ms. This beautiful rapid stream rises in the high grounds of Wind- ham co., near Stratton, Dover, and Somerset, Vt., and, proceeding in a S. E. course, it passes through Monroe, Florida, Rowe, Charlemont, Hawley, Buckland, Shelburne, and Conway, and falls into the Connecticut between Greenfield and Deerneld. The most important tributaries to this river are Cold River; a river from Heath and Coleraine; one from Leyden, and one from Conway. It is very rapid in some places, and its passage'through the mountains is very romantic. Length about 50 miles. Delaware Bay, at the mouth of Delaware Riv- er, is an arm of the sea. stretching up in a N. W. direction, for a distance of 75 miles. The en- trance to the bay is between Cape May on theN., and Cape Henlopen on the S., distant about 20 miles from each other. The width of the bay in the middle is 30 miles. There are many shoals, which render the navigation difficult and danger- ous ; and there is no good natural hai'bor within 70 miles of the ocean. The want of any secure anchorage on this coast, for several hundred miles from New York, has induced the government, at a heavy expense, to ei'ect a breakwater, forming an artificial harbor, within Cape Henlopen. The anchorage ground thus provided is in a cove directly W. of the cape, having a depth of water of from 4 to 6 fathoms, and a superficial extent of over half a square mile. An internal commu- nication has been formed between this bay and the Chesapeake by a canal 14 miles long, run- ning between Delaware City, at a point 42 miles below Philadelphia, and Back Creek, which com- municates through Elk Creek with the Chesa- peake. This canal has a depth of 8 feet, a width of 60 feet at the surface, and 36 feet at the bottom, and admits of the passage of vessels of consid- erable size. Delaware River rises among the Avestern spurs of the Catskill Mts., in N. Y. The two streams which constitute its principal sources are the Mohawks and the Popacton. The first of these, which is the most remote, and the real source of the Delaware, rises from a small lake near the border of Schoharie co., N. Y., in 42 45' N. lat., at an elevation of 1886 feet above tide water, and flows S. W. about 50 miles, to within 10 miles of the Susquehanna River, where, turn- ing suddenly to the S. E., it flows about 12 miles to its junction with the Popacton. This branch rises in Delaware co., N. Y., and pursues a course nearly parallel to that of the main branch, for about 50 miles, to the point of meeting. After the junction of these two branches, the Delaware flows on in a S. E. course, forming the boundary between Pa. and N. Y., for about 60 miles, to the N. W. corner of N. J. It then bends to the S. W. 35 miles, along the base of the Kittaning chain of mountains, until it finds a pass through this mountain by the celebrated " Water Gap," which is considered a great natural curiosity. The view in passing through this chasm is highly pictur- esque and impressive. The distance is about two miles, between rugged and lofty walls, rising almost from the water's edge to the height of 1600 feet, and often overhanging with immense masses of the rock. Towards the N. W. the passage widens somewhat, and there are some beautiful islands in the river, which here has great depth. Continuing S. about 21 miles, it reaches Easton, Pa., where it receives an important tribu- tary from the right in the Lehigh. About two miles below Easton, it pierces the Blue Ridge : and, five miles still lower, the South Mountain ; having obliquely traversed, in its course thus far, a great part of the Appalachian system. From South Mountain its course is S. E., about 35 miles, to the falls at Trenton, at the foot of which it meets the tide water. The distance between Easton and Trenton is 60 miles, ( in which the IN THE UNITED STATES. 189 river passes over twenty-five rapids, with an aggre- gate fall of 165 feet. These rapids are navigable at high water. Below Trenton the Delaware turns to the S. W., and, passing Philadelphia, continues this course until near its entrance, into the bay. A few miles below Philadelphia it receives the Schuylkill, which is one of its largest tributaries, from the N. W. The whole course of the river, from its remotest source to its entrance into the bay, is about 300 miles ; and to its entrance into the Atlantic, 375 miles. There are five bridges crossing the Delaware, the lowest of which is at Trenton. 'It is navigable for ships of the line to Philadelphia, 125 miles from the ocean by the course of the river and bay, and 45 miles from the head of the bay. For sloops it is navigable 35 miles farther, to Trenton. The Delaware is connected with the Hudson by two canals, the " Delaware and Hudson Canal," and the " Morris Canal." A vast amount of coal is transported on these canals ; and, aside from this immense business, the Delaware is one of the principal channels of internal traffic in the Eastern States. The basin of the Dglaware is about 250 miles in length, with a mean breadth of 45 miles ; com- prehending an area of 11,250 square miles. The surface is greatly diversified, with much difference of relative height. De Loma Point, Ca. A point of land on which the town of San Diego is situated. It extends into the Pacific just above the boundary between Upper and Lower California. Denny's River, Me. A small branch of the Schoodic. Dernier Island, Terre Bonne parish, La. This is the largest of a chain of long, narrow islands. Des Moines River, Io., rises in the Coteau des Prairies, and flowing in a S. E. direction, enters the Mississippi just below Des Moines Rapids, on the boundary between Io. and Mo. In high water it is navigable for steamboats 100 miles, and for keel boats at all seasons. Des Plaines River rises in the S. E. part of Wisconsin, and after flowing through a fertile country, mostly over a bed of limestone rock, en- ters the Illinois River. Destruction Island, On. Situated in the Pacific Ocean, N. W. from Greenville Point. Detroit River is the river or strait through which the waters of the upper lakes, Superior, Huron, Michigan, and St. Clair, are discharged into Lake Erie. The length of the river, from Lake St. Clair to Lake Erie, is about 28 miles. At its outlet from Lake St. Clair, it is over a mile wide. Opposite to Detroit, about 8 miles below, it is three fourths of a mile wide. Its course to Detroit is a little S. of W. ; but here it makes a curve, and pursues a more southerly direction. About 5 miles below Detroit, the river is divided into two channels, by Grand Turkey Island, and soon widens to 3 or 4 miles, and continues of this width for 16 or 17 miles, until it opens into the N. W. angle of Lake Erie. There are many islands in the river, rendering the naviga- tion somewhat intricate ; nevertheless, vessels of considerable burden can be carried through into Lake St. Clair. The principal channel is on the eastern side, between Boisblanc Island and the Canada shore. The banks of the river, in all its narrower parts especially, being settled and cultivated on both sides, present a beautiful view, in summer, to those who traverse its waters. The principal towns on its banks are Detroit and Brownstown on the American shore, and on the Canada shore Sandwich and Amherstburg. It receives from Michigan the^River Rouge, about a mile above Grand Turkey Island, and the Huron, at the point of connection with Lake Erie. From Canada, the only stream worthy of notice is the Canard, which enters the Detroit about 3k miles above Amherstburg. Devil's Hole, N. Y., is a gulf in Niagara River, about 1 \ miles below the falls. Dial Mountain, Nipple Top, or Noon Mark, N. Y., a peak of the Adirondack range, is situated in the town of Keene, Essex co. It is elevated 4900 feet above the Hudson. Diamond Island, N. Y. See Lake George. Diamond River, N. H., rises principally in Dia- mond Pond, in Stewartstown ; thence it passes through Dixville, and after receiving several tributaries, falls into Dead River, near its junc- tion with the Margallaway. Dick's River, Ky. This stream waters the W. part of Rock Castle co., flows N. W. through Lincoln co., separates Garrard from Boyle and Mercer counties, and empties into the Kentucky River. Dickson Creek, Ts. A small stream emptying into the S. W. part of Galveston Bay. Dike Creek, N. Y., rises in Steuben co., flows W., and enters Genesee River in Allegheny co. The N. Y. and Erie Railroad extends through the valley of this stream for a considerable dis- tance. Disappointment, Cape, On. Situated at the mouth of Columbia River. Dismal Swamp. An extensive tract of marshy, wooded land, lying partly in Virginia, and partly in North Carolina. It commences a little S. of Norfolk, Va., and extends S. 30 miles, with an ave- rage breadth of 10 miles, covering 150,000 acres. Some of the trees upon this tract grow to an enormous size, and the brushwood among them is so thick, as in some parts to be almost imper- vious. In the midst of this swamp is the lake, called Drummond Lake, 15 miles in circumfer- ence, which supplies the main trunk of the Dis- mal Swamp Canal, by a navigable feeder 5 miles in length. This canal is 23 miles long, uniting the waters of Chesapeake Bay with those of Pas- quotank River, flowing into Albemarle Sound. In the Dismal Swamp the following rivers take their rise : the Nansemond and Elizabeth Rivers, flowing N. into the estuary of James River ; Pas- quotank and Perquiman's Rivers, flowing into Albemarle Sound ; and some small creeks, run- ning S. E. into Currituck Sound. Dividing Creek, Va., separates Lancaster and Northumberland counties, and falls into the Chesapeake. Doctor's Bay, Duval co., Fa. An enlargement of St. John's River just above Black Creek. Dog River, Vt. It is formed in Northfield by the union of several streams, and taking a northerly course through Berlin, falls into Winooski River, nearly a mile below the village of Montpelier. Its length is about 16 miles, and it waters about 80 square miles. Dorcheat Bayou. This stream rises in Hemp- stead co., As., and flows S. into La., where it enters Lake Bistineau. Dolores River, Ca. A small stream flowing N. W. into the River St. Michael. Drake's Creek. The head branches of this stream rise in Sumner co., Te. It flows in a 190 MOUNTAINS, RIVERS, LAKES, &c., northerly direction, and empties into the Big Barren, in Warren co., Ky. Drifting Island Lake, Ma. This lake is the source of one of the head branches of Waton- wan River. Drowned Lands, N. Y. A name given to a large marsh, through which the Wallkill flows. It is mostly situated in the town of Warwick, Orange GO., and contains about 50,000 acres of land. The stream flows sluggishly through this swamp, which is used for the pasturage of cattle, on the subsiding of the spring freshets which submerge it, but is a desolate waste during the rest of the year. Although there are some fertile islands or elevated spots, all efforts to wholly drain it have been unsuccessful. Du Chesne Fork, Ca. A head branch of Unita River. Duck Creek, De. A small stream separating New Castle and Kent counties, and emptying into Delaware Bay. Duck Creek, Scott co., Io., drains the S. part of the county, flowing W. into Mississippi River. Duck Islands, Me., lie S. of Mount Desert Island. Duck Lake, N. Y. This small sheet of water lies in the town of Conquest, Cayuga co. Duck River, Brown co., Wn., rises in the S. part of the county, and flowing N. E., falls into Green Bay. N. W. 'from the mouth of Fox River. Dudley Island, Me., lies in Passamaquoddy Bay, and belongs to Eastport. Du Fil River, Mn., rises in the N. interior of Tuscola co., flows N., through Huron co., into Saginaw Bay. Dug Hill, Blandford, Ms. Height 1622 feet. Dugdemona River, La. This large stream rises in Bienville and Jackson parishes, flows S. E., receiving numerous tributaries, and empties into Calatroola Lake. Duncan's Creek, S. C., rises in the interior of Laurens district, flows E. by S., and empties into Ennoree River. Duncan's Rocks, On. Situated at the mouth of the Straits of Juan de Fuca, off Cape Flattery. Dunderberg Mountains, or Hills, Haverstraw, Rockland co., N. Y., constitute the S. part of the Highlands. Dunmore Lake, Vt., sometimes called Trout Pond, is about 4 miles long, and three fourths of a mile wide. It lies in Leicester and Salisbury, and communicates through Leicester River with Otter Creek. Trout weighing 25 pounds have been taken out of this lake. Dunn's Lake, St. John's co., Fa. A long, nar- row sheet of water, N. E. from Lake George, and connected on the N. W. with St. John's River. Dustorfs Island, N. H. This small island in the Merrimack, at the mouth of Contoocook River, between Concord and Boscawen, is celebrated for the heroic defence of a lady, whose name it bears, against a party of Indians, on the night of the 1 5th of March, 1 698. See Hay ward's Gazetteer of New Hampshire. Dutchers Creek, As. A small stream which enters Petit Jean Creek near Danville. Dyer's Bay, Me. See Steuben. Eagle Creek, Ky. This stream drains the N. interior of Scott co., flows N. N. W. to Gallatin co., where it turns to the S. W., separating Owen from Gallatin and Carroll counties, and empties into the Kentucky River. Eagle Creek, Wn. A small branch of the Mississippi, draining the N. W. part of Craw- ford co. Eagle Harbor, Houghton co., Mn. Situated on the N. W. coast of Keewaiwona Point, W. from Great Marais Harbor. Eagle Lakes, Aroostook co., Me., lie between the Aroostook and St. John's Rivers, and are connected with several smaller lakes. The gen eral outlet is Chipquedopshook River, which flows about 14 miles into St. John's River. Eagle Lake, Kosciusco co., la. Situated S. E. from the town of Warsaw. Eagle River, Houghton co., Mn., drains the N. W. part of Keewaiwona Point, and falls into Lake Superior. Eagle Riuer, Ca. . It rises on the E. border of the state, flows W., and empties into Grand River. East Bay, N. Y., is the E. part of the Great Bay, S. of Long Island. East Bay, La. The body of water lying be- tween the S. and S. W. passes of the Mississippi River. East Canada Creek, N. Y., rises in Hamilton co., flows S., dividing Fulton an4 Montgomery coun- ties on the E. from Herkimer co. on the W., and falls into the Mohawk. It is a rapid stream, af- fording good water power. Eastern Bay, Md. An arm of Chesapeake Bay, extending between Queen Ann and Talbot counties. East Koy Creek, N. Y., a fine mill stream, rises in Genesee co., flows S., and unites with the W. Koy in Alleghany co. ; it then flows in an E. di- rection until its entrance into the Genesee. East River, N. Y., is an arm of Long Island Sound, dividing Long Island on the E. from the Island of New York and a part of Westchestec co. on the W. It communicates with the Atlan- tic Ocean through the " Narrows," with the har- bor of N. Y., and with Hudson River. It is about 15 miles long, contains several important islands, and is navigable for large vessels. The celebrated pass called " Hell Gate " is opposite Great Barn Island, 7 miles N. E. of N. Y. city. East Savannah River, Ma., flows N. E. into Em- barras River. East Swan River, Ma. It rises near Swan River, in a series of small lakes, flows S. S. E., and empties into St. Louis River. Eaton's Neck, N. Y., a bold promontory, on which there is a light-house, lies in the town of Huntington, on the N. side of Long Island. Ebeeme Mount, Piscataquis co., Me., lies S. E. of Mt. Baker. Ebeeme River, Piscataquis co., Me., consists of two branches, which rise near Mount Ebeeme. and unite in Brownville to form Pleasant River. Ebenezer Creek, Ga., rises in the S. E. part of Scriven co., flows S. E., and falls into the Savan- nah River in Eifingham co. Echeconno River, Ga. This stream rises in the W. part of Pike co., flows S. E., separating Bibh from Crawford and Houston counties, and falls into the Ockmulgee River. Eckford Chain of Lakes, N. Y., comprises three beautiful lakes, of which Eckford and Genet are the principal, lying E. of Racket Lake, Hamil- ton co. Edisto River and Island, S. C. This river, the two main branches of which, called the North and South Edisto, rise in Edgefield co., pursues a S. E. course into Colleton co., where it turns to the S., and enters the Atlantic by two mouths, IN THE UNITED STATES. 191 which form Edisto Island. It is navigable 100 miles for large boats. The island is 12 miles long and from 1 to 5 broad. Edward, Fort, Fort Edward village, Washing- ton co., N. Y. Edwards River, Is. This stream drains the S. interior of Henry co., flows a little S. of W. across Mercer co., and empties into the Mississippi. Eel River, la., rises in Hendricks co., and, after a winding course, falls into the W. fork of White River, at Point Commerce, Greene co. Egg Harbor, Great, River and Bay, N. J. The river rises in Gloucester co., and flows 45 miles into the bay. It is navigable for sloops over 25 miles above May's landing, below which it flows through a marsh. The harbor is 5 miles long, and from one half to 4 miles broad. Egg Harbor, Little, River and Bay, N. J. This river rises in Burlington and Gloucester counties, and flows S. E. into the bay. It is navigable 25 miles, and is approached through New Inlet, which is from 15 to 18 feet deep. Egmont Island, Hillsboro' co., Fa. Situated at the mouth of Tampico Bay, S. from Mullet Island. Eighteen Mile Creek, N. Y., rises in Niagara co., and flows N. into Lake Ontario. Eighteen Mile Creek, Putnam co., Va. An E. branch of the Great Kanawha. Eighteen Mile Creek, S. C. A branch of Seneca River, which it enters in Anderson district. Elbow Lake, Ma. This lake, which receives its name from its shape, is the principal source of the head branch of North Red River. Eleven Mile Branch, Bamwell district, S. C. A small tributary of the Savannah River. Eleven Point River, Mo. and As. This river has its source in Oregon co., Mo., flows S. E. into As., and, uniting with Spring River, empties into the Big Black. Elizabeth Bay, Mn. A large curvature_of Lake Michigan, extending into Michilimackinac co. Elizabeth, Cape, Me., lies in the town of Cape Elizabeth, and forms the W. boundary of Casco Bay. Near the extremity of the cape is a light- house, 50 feet in height, in N. lat. 43 33', W. Ion. 70 11'. Elizabeth Islands, Ms. See Chilmark. Elizabeth River, Va. This river rises in Princess Ann and Norfolk counties, and, flowing N. W. 25 miles into a large estuary at the mouth of James River, forms the fine harbor of Norfolk. It forms, in conjunction with the Dismal Swamp Canal and Pasquatank River, a communication from Chesapeake Bay to Albemarle Sound. Elk Creek, Sanilac co., Mn., flows into Lake Huron. Elk River, Md., rises in Pa., and flows into a broad estuary on the N. part of Chesapeake Bay. It is navigable to Elkton, 15 miles. Elk River, Aa., rises in Te., and, flowing S. W. into Aa., enters the Tennessee a little above Muscle Shoals. Elkhart River, la., rises in Noble and Lagrange counties, and flows N. W. into St. Joseph's River, in Elkhart co. Elk Head River, Ca., rises in the Rocky Mts., and flows S. W. into Yampah, or Bear River. Elkhorn River, Ky., enters the Kentucky on the E. side, in Franklin co., after a course of 30 miles. Elkhorn River, Is., rises in Washington co., and fiows N. W. into the Kaskaskia. Ellejay River, Ga. A branch of the Coosa. Ellicott's Creek, N. Y., rises in Genesee co., flows W., and enters Niagara River near the mouth of Tonawanda Creek, in Erie co. This stream affords a number of good mill sites. Elligo Pond, Orleans co., Vt. This pond lies in the towns of Greensborough and Craftsbury, and is sometimes called Elligo Scotland, a cor- ruption of the Indian name of Elligo Scootlan. It is about 2 miles long and half a mile wide, and has two outlets, one to the N. and the other to the S. The N. outlet constitutes one of the head branches of Black River ; the S., after passing through Little Elligo Pond, communicates with the River Lamoille in Hardwick. The scenery on the borders of this pond is very fine, and near its centre are two small islands. The waters abound with trout of excellent quality. This was for- merly a favorite hunting-ground of the St. Francis Indians, to whom the N. part of the state once belonged. Ellis Island, N. Y., sometimes called Gibbet Island, from the executions which take place here, lies at the mouth of Hudson River, opposite the city of NCAV York. It belongs to the U. S. gov- ernment, and Fort Gibson is situated on it. Ellis River, Me., rises in the N. part of Oxford co., flows S. through the town of Rumford into the Androscoggin. Ellis River, N. H., rises on the E. side of the White Mountains, near the sources of Peabody River. Its two main branches unite in the town of Jackson, and fall into the Saco River at Bart- lett. Elm Creek, Is. It rises in the S. part of Clay co., flows S. E., and empties into the Little Wa- bash River. Elm River, Houghton co., Mn. A small stream rising in Juliet Lake, and flowing N. W. into Lake Superior. Elm River, Ma. A W. branch of North Red River. Embarras River, Ma. A small stream flowing S. E. into St. Louis River. Emenija River, Ma. This river flows S. W. into the Sioux, which it enters at the N. W. cor- ner of Iowa. Emery River, Te., is a branch of Clinch River. English Lake, Stark co., la. A sheet of water lying near the centre of the county, and through which the Kankakee River flows. English River, N. Y., rises in Clinton co., flows N. 30 miles, and enters Chateaugay River in Canada. Englishman's Bay, Washington co., Me., is sit- uated a few miles W. of Machias Bay. Chan- dler's River, a considerable stream, flows into it, and it contains many islands and fine harbors. Head Harbor Island is its W. boundary. Eninandigo River, La Pointe co., Wn., rises in the N. W. part of the county, and flows S. into the St. Croix River. Ennoree River, S. C. A branch of Broad River. E no River, Orange co., N. C. This stream rises in the interior of Orange co., flows E., and empties into the Neuse, of which it is a head branch. Enty Catecome River, On. It flows S. E., and empties into Clark's Fork of Columbia River, a little below Barrier River. Erie, Lake, one of the chain of great lakes lying between the United States and the British pos- sessions in North America. Its waters wash the shores of four of the states, N. Y, Pa., 0., and Mn., and of a large section of Canada. The greatest length of the lake, from the mouth 192 MOUNTAINS, RIVERS, LAKES, &c., of the Maumee on the W. to the outlet of Niag- ara River on the E., is within a fraction of 270 miles. The width varies from 15 to 50 miles, the widest part being opposite to Ashtabula co., O. The depth is much less than that of either of the other great lakes, not exceeding 120 feet, or 20 fathoms, on an average, and becoming gen- erally very shallow towards the shores. Its surface, as ascertained by the engineers of the Erie Canal, is 555 feet above the Hudson River at Albany, and 334 feet above Lake Ontario. It receives, at its extreme N. W. angle, through the Detroit River or Strait, the influx of the waters from the great upper lakes, and discharges them at the N. E. extremity, through the Niagara River, into Lake Ontario. This lake is the only one of the series in which a current is supposed to be percep- tible. From the W., the rivers which come in are the Maumee, the Raisin and the Huron ; from the N., the Ouse, or Grand River ; and from the S., Portage, Sandusky, Huron, Cuyahoga, Grand Conneaut, Cattaraugus, and Buffalo. The waters of Lake Erie are united with the Hudson River by the Erie Canal, with the Ohio River by the Ohio Canal, and with the Wabash, at Terre Haute, la., by the Wabash and Erie Canal. The Wei- land Canal opens from Lake Erie a navigable channel into Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence. Lines of railroad communication, also, connect it with Boston, with New York, with Cincinnati, and, by the way of Detroit, with a point on Lake Michigan, near to Chicago. This central position of Lake Erie gives it a greater importance, as a medium of transportation and travel, than can ever belong to either of the other great lakes, notwithstanding much greater impediments to its navigation, from the shallowness of its harbors, and the great number of rocks projecting from its northern shore. The navigation of the lake becomes dangerous as the stormy season ap- proaches, and during a pai't of the winter is wholly prevented by ice. In the season of com- merce upon its waters, between 300 and 400 ves- sels are employed, besides a great number of steamboats. The principal ports are those of Buffalo and Dunkirk, N. Y., Erie, Pa., Cleveland, Sandusky, and Toledo, 0. Error Mount, Me., is s-ituated in the N. E. part of Somerset co. Escambia River, Fa. and Aa., receives the Co- necuh, a larger river than itself, and flows into Pensacola Bay. Escatawpa Creek, Aa. and Mi. This stream rises in Washington co., Aa., flows in a S. S. W. direction, and enters the Pascagoula River near its mouth, in Jackson co., Mi. Esconawba River, Mn. This large river drains the N. E. interior of Marquette co., flows S. E., and empties into the Little Bay de Noquet. Esopus Creek, N. Y., a fine mill stream, rises in Ulster co., flows S. E. to the town of Marbletown, whence it flows N. E. until its entrance into the Hudson, at the village of Ulster. Espiritu Santo Bay, Ts. This bay, which is enclosed by narrow islands, extends from Nueces River on the S. W. to Matagorda Bay on the N. E. Espiritu Santo Pass, Ts. A narrow passage between two islands, and leading into Espiritu Santo Bay. Establishment Creek. St. Genevieve co., Mo., flows N. E. into the Mississippi River. Etowah River, Ga., one of the two branches which unite in Floyd co. to form the Coosa. Eustis, Lake, Marion co., Fa. A small body of water lying in the E. part of the county, S. from Lake Griffin. Eutaw Springs, S. C-, a small S. branch of San- tee River, is famous for the battle fought on its borders, Sept. 8, 1781, between Greene, American general, with a loss of 555, and Stewart, British general, with a loss of 1000. Fabius River, Mo., rises in lo. and Mo., and after a course of about 100 miles, enters the Mis- sissippi in Marion co.. Mo. Fairlee Lake, Vt. See Fairlee. Falcon Islands. Two or three small islands lying in Long Island Sound, off the coast of Ct. Fall Creek, N. Y., rises in Cayuga co., and enters Cayuga Lake, near the village of Ithaca, in Tompkins co. This stream has several beau- tiful falls, which afford excellent water power. Those near Ithaca are particularly interesting. An artificial tunnel, through which there is a passage for visitors, has been constructed here, affording the most charming views imaginable. Fall Creek, la., rises in the N. W. part of Henry co.. flows S. W., and empties into the W. fork of White River at Indianapolis, Marion co. Fall Creek, On., flows N. N. W. into Lewis Fork, of Columbia River. Fall River, On. This river rises, by two widely- spread forks, in the Blue and Cascade Mts., flows in a northerly direction, and empties into Colum- bia River. Fall River Hill, Fall River, Ms. Height 259 ft. Falling Spring Rivulet, Va. This tributary of Jackson's River rises 20 miles S. W. from Warm Spring. It has a perpendicular fall of 200 feet, and a person may walk between the water and the rock without being wet. Falls of Niagara. See Fashionable Resorts, &c. Farm River, Ct. It rises in a pond on the border of Middlesex and New Haven counties, flows S. W., and empties into Long Island Sound. Farmington River, Ms. and Ct. This river rises in Hampden and Berkshire counties, Ms., flows S. E. and N. E., across Litchfield and Hartford coun- ties, Ct., and empties into the Connecticut River. Fausse Riviere, Lake, Mo., was the bed of the Mississippi until about 17 14, when the river took a shorter course, and, filling up the old channel near its junction with the new, left the remainder a large lake. It is bordered with fine farms of :i very fertile soil. Fay's Mountain, Westborough, Ms. Height 707 feet. Federal Point, N. C. The S. extremity of New Hanover co., jutting into Cape Fear River. Fenahollowa River, Madison co., Fa. This is a small stream flowing in a south-westerly direc- tion into the Gulf of Mexico. Ferrand River, Vt. This river rises in Avery's and Warner's Gores, waters the towns of Morgan and Wenlock, and unites with Clyde River in Brighton. Fifteen Mile Falls, Vt. See Lunenburg. Finky's Lake, N. Y., lies in the town of Mina, Chatauque co. Fire Islands, N. Y. These small islands lie opposite the town of Islip, in the Great S. Bay of Long Island. Fireplace Bay, Brookhaven, Suffolk co., N. Y., is a curvature of the Great S. Bay of Long Island. Fire Steel River, Mn., rises in the W. part of Houghton co., and flows N. W. into Lake Superior. IN THE UNITED STATES. 193 First Lake, Dane co., Wn. It lies S. E. from Second Lake, and supplies the head waters of the W. branch of Eock River. Fish Creek. N. Y., an important mill stream, rises in Lewis co., and enters Wood Creek, in Oneida co. It is boatable a few miles above its mouth. Fish Creek, Saratoga co., N. Y., the outlet of Saratoga Lake, enters the Hudson at the village of Schuylerville. Fish Creek, Ma. This stream waters the S. W. part of the territory flowing S. into the Missouri River. Fish Lake, Fulton co., N. Y. This lake, which is surrounded by high hills, is 2 miles long, and 1 mile wide. Its waters are clear and deep, abound- ing in salmon and brook trout of a superior quality, Fish Lake, Oswego co.. N. Y. This beautiful little sheet of water lies in the town of Granby, W. of Oswego River. It is 2 miles long, and 1 mile wide. Fish River, Me., a tributary of the St. John's, flows in the N. part of Penobscot co. Fish Hirer, Baldwin co., A a., pursues a S. course, and falls into Bon Secour Bay. Fish River, Schoolcraft co., Mn. A small stream flowing into Lake Superior. Fish River, La Pointe co., Wn., flows N. E. into the S. extremity of Chegowawegon Bay. Fisher's Island, Ct. Situated in Long Island Sound, off the mouth of Mystic River. The beautiful steamer Atlantic, with many valuable lives, was lost at this island, in November, 1846. Fisher's Island, Suffolk co., N. Y., lies near the E. end of Long Island Sound, off the Ct. shore. It is distant 14 miles from the nearest point of Long Island, and 137 miles from the city of N. Y. It is 8 miles long, 1 wide, owned by one proprie- tor, and sustains a very fine dairy. Fisherman's Island, Me., lies "off the town of Boothbay, Lincoln co. Fisherman's Island, Northampton co., Va., lies off Cape Charles, at the mouth of Chesapeake Bay. Fishing Creek, Va. It rises in the S. part of Wetzel co., flows N. W., and empties into the Ohio River at the town of New Martinsville. Fishing Creek, S. C., rises in York district, flows S. E., and falls into the Wateree in Chester co. Fishkill or Matteawan Creek, N. Y.. an impor- tant mill stream, rises in Dutchess co.. flows S. W., through the town of Fishkill, and enters the Hud- son opposite the village of Newburg. The impor- tant manufacturing villages of Glenheim and Mat- teawan are located on this stream. Fishkill or Matteawan Mountains, N. Y., in the S. part of Dutchess co., are a continuation of the Highlands, through which the Hudson River passes. They extend N., under different names, to the Green Mts. of Vt. Five Mile Run Creek, Cattaraugus co., N. Y., rises in Hinsdale, and flows S. into the Allegha- ny River. Flambeau Lake, Portage co., Wn. Situated in the N. part of the county, and connected by an outlet with one of the head branches of Chippewa River. Flat Head L