-^Aouj. .^3- c/ccan^-e^^y). BENGAL CIVIL SS-HVICK. REESE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. Cld, W^V HERZEGOVINA AND THE LATE UPRISING: THE CAUSES OF THE LATTER AND THE REMEDIES. FROM THE NOTES AND LETTERS OF A SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT. B Y W. J. S T I L L M A N, ' AUTHOR OF " THE CRETAN INSURRECTION OF 1866-8," &C., &C. LONDON : LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. 1877. REESE CHISWICK PRESS : — C. WHITTINGHAM, TOOKS COURT, CHANCERY LANE. PREFACE. |F the numerous maps which the events of the past year and a half have called out, unfortunately, there is not one which, in the region particularly involved by the operations of the insurrection in Herzegovina, is trustworthy in its details. The best is that of the Austrian Staff; but even this, in the mountain region about Baniani, &c., is extremely inaccurate. That of Kiepert is in general clear and correct, but apparently has not been founded on actual survey in any of the sections bordering on Montenegro. The only entirely accurate one of this section is that made for the Montenegrin Government, but never published. For a general notion of the relations of Dalmatia and Monte- negro to Herzegovina — the exposition of which has been one of the principal objects of my book — any of the maps will suffice, and the miHtary strategy hardly requires explana- tion. The question of pronunciation of Slav names is one which seems to create a confusion I cannot flatter myself I shall be able to clear up. For the final syllable of all patronymic, &c., names, ordinarily written as ich or itch^ the latter method, clumsy though it seems, is the only one which leaves no doubt as to the approximate sound; but, as this combination represents three recognized sounds in the Serb language, we 1 dt>1 79 iv Preface, can only approximate. In the Croatian these three are re- presented by the letter c with accents. This simple expedient is forbidden by our scholastic traditions ; and in my spelling I have had recourse to a form which is as capable as the ich of being mispronounced — viz., ics ; but the soft sound of ch qualified by s will give the nearest approach to the sound I can contrive. The triple c, represented in the Cyrilian alphabet by three letters, is incommunicable by English signs. The nearest idea I can give is as cs^ as above, y//, and ch as in rich. The name of the town which I have written Niksics has thus been printed: — Nicksitch, Nich- sitch, Nicsich, Niksic, Nichsic, Nichsich, and Niksics. The ^' Illyrian ^^ is Niksic. The final consonant is always soft, whatever may be the spelling. INTRODUCTORY. HE principal purpose of publishing this fragment of history is to place in clearer light certain motives and causes for the Herzegovinian insur- rection which are not generally accepted by, or were not visible to, the general public, and which were hardly to be given in journalistic narrative while events were in pro- gress, either because learned subsequently, or because they became known to me rather from regard for a certain reputa- tion acquired in years gone by, during an insurrection in Crete, of being a sympathizer and active friend of the Rayahs, than because I was correspondent of an English journal j and in some cases were only open to me on the understanding that they were not to be alluded to in correspondence. Having been in 1866-8 thoroughly conversant with the Turkish manner of making war under similar circumstances, and personally acquainted with many Turkish functionaries, civil and mihtary, I had, naturally, formed very decided opinions as to the merits of that struggle between humanity and the desire for progress on one side and barbarism and an intolerable oppression on the other, which is the element of uncertainty in what is known as the Eastern question. If the B 2 Introductory, having entered the field with these opinions, so defined, dis- quahfied me for the office of a candid historian, my readers must judge. I am conscious of no bias but that which my painful and costly experience of Turkish customs and cha- racter has enforced me to, and I have endeavoured in my narration to avoid all discoloration of the events; as to the sympathies with which I followed them, I imagine no really unprejudiced person could expect that they would not be on the side which was substantially right, and which had every claim to the sympathy of right-minded men. As events are hurrying on, my story may be useless as a lesson before even it is printed — at least, it is to be hoped that the civilized world will never be called on again to ad- judicate between the Rayah and his master ; but even so, it may be worth while to see how completely the old despotism is responsible for its own downfall, and how little any outside agency had to do with a revolt which might have been developed at any moment into insurrection, by any circum- stance that gave the Rayahs a hope, even momentary; and' how many opportunities to allay it were thrown away. The condition of the Christian Herzegovinian was the most intolerable of all the subjects of Turkey, for the poverty of the country gave little solace for his slavery, and the nearness of Montenegro and Dalmatia made the contrast between his condition and that of his near kinsmen the greater. Certainly in no country in w^hich I have ever been was the state of life of the people so wretched as his, and the still not entirely tamed mountain spirit made the endur- ance of oppression more vexatious, and the eagerness to seize any opportunity or real encouragement to rise much more keen. The visit of the Emperor of Austria to the Dalmatian Introductory, 3 coasts (which are the coasts also of Herzegovina), and the marked interest thus for the first time shown in the Slav population of this section, stimulated the ferment continually going on there, and led the CathoHc Herzegovinians to anticipate an Austrian intervention. The insurrection in its early stages was mainly amongst the Catholic population between Popovo and Gabella, not less oppressed than the Orthodox, but more controlled by the clergy (who have a lively apprehension of any movement which has its basis in Servian, Russian, or Montenegrin intrigues), but at the same time, far less individual and warlike by reason of this control. The insurrection spread because the whole country was ripe for it, and because the military conduct of the Turks was inefficient and unintelligent, and perversely directed, as far as it went, to provoke rather than subdue or allay the insub- ordination. Under governments which give no basis or motive for loyalty, insurrection is chronic even if latent ; and under the rule of the Turks, there is never peace, only a truce between conqueror and conquered, in which no law has ever intervened to limit the right of the victor over his victim. It is only the law of force in its first and uncrystallized or uncodified state — an extended brigandage, a long time feared by all Europe, and since respected as a fatt accompli^ with the respect men pay to the work of four centuries, even when, as in this case, that work is in itself utterly evil. This truce is liable at all times to be broken by any individual Mussulman on his own responsibility,^a condition which naturally involves the corresponding one of a readiness of the Rayah to revolt at all times. Every incident therefore which gives a hope of successful revolt, or which increases the normal injustice of the oppres- sion, is at once followed by revolt. Those who have read 4 Introdtutory, the interesting book of Mr. Evans on Bosnia and Herze- govina at the moment of the outbreak will know what was the ordinary condition of those provinces. The latter has never been long quiet — the interval of peace since 1862 is probably the longest which has obtained since the conquest, and this was probably due to the fact that in the repres- sion of that year the Austrian Government took an active part, and so efficiently that the impression remained that nothing was to be done until Austria was favourably dis- posed. Montenegro even owed the only considerable defeat of the century past to the merciless blockade which Austria established along her whole frontier, cutting off entirely suppHes of ammunition, so that in the last battles between the Turks and Montenegrins the latter had only five cartridges per man, powder was worth its weight in silver, and a single percussion cap cost tenpence ! and the men ceased fighting because they saw that to go into battle with only their handjars against rifled muskets and artillery, was an useless sacrifice of life. The Herzegovinian allies had been conquered by Austrian troops acting with the Turks — there was no sign of encouragement from any side, and Servia, in spite of pledges given long before, had taken concessions from the Porte, and was hopelessly tranquil. Turkey had therefore been victorious under circum- stances which made her victory precarious ; she owed it to Austrian assistance, and achieved it, even at that, with forces demorahzed to a great extent by several bloody disasters, which only the utter recklessness of human life, which cha- racterized Omar Pasha's strategy, enabled them to retrieve ; and if the Montenegrins had been able to obtain, even at the last moment, supplies of ammunition, they would have turned the event of the war completely, for the Turks had Introductory , 5 secured no position of vital importance, and had accom- plished only a small part of the work to be done to really conquer Montenegro.^ The Cretan insurrection had since that time given the Ottoman empire a blow from which, in its decaying con- dition, it had never been able to recover. The expenditure of that war — over 50,000 men and ;^i 0,000,000 ! — was too much for its diminishing vitality to recuperate, while the Mussul- man populations had become equally demoralized by the disas- trous drain on their able-bodied men. Towards the end of the Cretan insurrection the soldiers who were being embarked for Crete w^ere so infected with the dread of this service that desertions were very numerous and disaffection general,^ and the supreme effort which the Porte has since made to meet the Servian revolt and create a religious enthusiasm has not restored the old morale of the Mussulman population, or effaced the great discouragement which the Cretan insur- rection produced. And whatever may have been the case with the Turkish troops before Alexinatz, and against the Servians, I have no kind of hesitation in saying that in Herzegovina and before the Montenegrin lines they showed anything but good morale — such, in fact, as could only be found with decaying military power, their best battalions ^ Omar Pasha in his reports pretended to have reached Cettinje, but in fact his anny was never in sight of that place, and the positions to be taken before reaching it were so strong that his army, enfeebled as it was, would possibly have been unable to reach it even against the discouraged resistance of the Montenegrin force. Omar himself said at Constanti- nople to a friend of mine, that if the Prince had sent 5,000 fresh men against his army when it had reached Rieka he could not have offered an effectual resistance, and would have been obliged to abandon his conquest. 2 See Blue book on Cretan insurrection, despatches of Consul at Beyrout. 6 Int7'oductory, not being comparable to those which came to Crete in 1867, while the mismanagement and demoralization in the higher ranks were still more striking. I feel confident, looking at the matter with impressions not materially modified since then, that the Cretan insurrection made the Herzegovinian revolt practicable and successfiil, and that firom the two the independent existence of the Ottoman empire is hence- forward impossible, even if Russia should not succeed in breaking it down completely. The Slavs have been pro- gressing in political knowledge as well as moral force, in spite of oppression, and the Mussulmans have followed the usual course of nations which govern without regard to justice or political economy, and destroy the sources of their own power, growing weaker and less coherent with each generation, according to the law ** Which makes the crime its own blindfold redresser." I have purposely avoided any mention of the agitation in Bosnia, not only because I saw nothing of it, but because it was evidently a reflection from that in the Herzegovina, and had never any great force or coherence. In Croatia, how- ever, it presented the peculiarity that it showed the pugnacity and irrepressibility of the Catholics, as in Herzegovina it did that of the Orthodox Christians. CHAPTER I. |N arriving at Trieste at the end of August, 1875, 1 found that there was very little knowledge of, or interest in, the Herzegovinian movement there. Bands were known to be hanging about Klek, Trebinje, and Zubci, but there seemed to be nothing known of the upper Herzegovina. Two or three bands were formed in Piva, Baniani, and other districts on the immediate borders of Montenegro, in which was a certain element of Monte- negrins proper, and many Crivoscians (Austrian subjects from the Bocche di Cattaro), most of which were under the com- mand of Herzegovinians, the sole exception being that of Peko Pavlovics, an old Montenegrin Turk-fighter, whose courage had been tried in more than sixty battles, and whose presence was an unfailing element in any war or revolt against the Ottoman empire on or near the borders of Montenegro. There was a committee at Trieste for aiding the movement by supplying arms and forwarding volunteers. The greatest deficiency was that of arms and ammunition, and the Trieste committee could at that time only send old muzzle-loaders of all models, contributed more than purchased. There was no concert and no plan as to any definite object in the insurrection, and all the animus I could perceive was the 8 The Beginnmgs of the Insurrection, chronic sympathy with a people who were known to be grossly oppressed, and who were fighting against their masters. What political tone I could find was distinctly Austrian, and the members of the committee were all Dalmatians, with whom, as with the Dalmatian patriots generally, the best end of the affair would be the union of Bosnia and part, at least, of Herzegovina to Dalmatia. There was no Russian leaning or influence. My Cretan experience hardly left me to conjecture on the immediate causes of discontent, and inquiry going down the coast, and wherever I saw any of the local committees, confirmed, circumstance by circumstance, the old story. The Christian had neither justice, security, nor the common rights of humanity. No court sat for him, but all against him ; no tenure of land held against the declaration of a Mussul- man, and even the sanctity of the family was constantly invaded by the carrying off of the young girls for the harems of their masters. Everywhere and from the lips of the most dis- passionate men I heard the same confirmations. In Bosnia the slavery was more abject, but in Herzegovina the population was poorer and less able to support exactions like those endured by the Bosnian, and the energy with which the Herzegovinian occasionally resists extreme oppression made it not so safe to the Mussulman; so that on the whole Herzegovina was less repressed than Bosnia. Perhaps the downright killing of Christians was more common in the former province, but, in revenge, more Mussulmans were made to pay this last penalty of a law which comes sometimes to redress lawlessness ; and so a certain balance was struck. A single case of judicial injustice, one of whose victims I saw and questioned, and of which I obtained ample con- firmation at Mostar, may be adduced as a sample of the The Begin7iings of the Insurrection. 9 status quo which we have been often told leaves no real justification for insurrection. A certain young man from the neighbourhood of Trebinje had, in a quarrel, killed an Aga^ and fled to Montenegro. His nearest male relations^ were therefore arrested, to the number of six, and thrown into prison, being tortured in various ways to compel confession of complicity ; two being put in long wooden boxes, like coffins, and rolled downhill, others being stood upright with their heads in a hole in the floor of the prison, which allowed them to rest on their shoulders, having splinters of wood driven under their finger-nails (the boy I saw in Ragusa gave a minute account of the operation, sickening in its fidelity to detail). The father of the murderer died in prison, and one of the cousins was taken out of the prison in Mostar, just ^Nt days before the Consular Commission arrived, and hung before one of the mosques to calm the excitement of the Bashi-bazooks, the ruffians who, to show their sense of such occasional luxuries, had, in the beginning of the war, planned a general massacre of the Christians of Mostar, and were only dissuaded from their scheme by being assured by one of the more prudent Agas that such a feat would only result in the Austrian army taking possession of the country. In general when any Herzegovinian became obnoxious ta the authorities, or, which amounted to the same thing, to the Agas or Beys, he fled to Montenegro, if he could escape. I have heard several incidents described as the immediate cause of the outbreak, but the fact is that there was scarcely ^ The practice of imprisoning or otherwise punishing relatives of an offender who cannot be captured is universal in all Turkish jurispru- dence. I myself came across cases of it in Crete, perpetrated by Ismael Pasha, a highly reputed functionary, who had been educated in Paris. I believe that every impartial European consul in the whole empire will have known cases of the same abuse of power. lo The Beginnings of the Insurrectioft, a district in Herzegovina which had not sent its representatives to that city of refuge, the free Montenegro. In one village three Turks had violated two women, and the relatives had killed one or more of the violators, and, with their immediate male relatives, fled to the usual asylum ; in another, a man had resisted illegal collection of taxes, and killed an official who attempted to levy them by force ; another was driven out of the country by attempts to kill him as a dangerous man — i.e.^ one who had a great moral influence on his fellow villagers (of this Socica was a remarkable case) ; and one of the most prominent incidents in this flint, steel, and gun- powder arrangement was that of a local tax farmer at Nevesinje, who, on occasion of the marriage of his son, attempted to compel his clientele to pay supplementary tax in the shape of wedding presents, — a form of extortion which was obstinately resisted, whereupon the farmer sent the ^apties to enforce the levy. The recusants fled as usual. The collection of fugitives in the dominions of Prince Nikita became so serious a consideration, that remon- strances were made to the Government at Seraievo; and, after prolonged negotiations, a promise was made to the Prince, that the exiles should return on guarantees of their personal safety, and come to Seraievo to discuss their com- plaints. Amongst these men were the pope Simonies, since a prominent leader of the insurgents, from Gatschko, and Gligor Millecivics of Bilek, also a captain of note. In con- sequence of this arrangement, the chief of all the refugees returned to Herzegovina via Baniani en route for Seraievo, and were stopped by a patrol of zapties ; but the Christians refusing to recognize the right of arrest, a fight ensued, in which several of them were killed. This, of course, drove the rest back into Montenegro, when the agitation became The Beginnings of the Insurrection. 1 1 serious over the whole province, and a number of the Nevesinje refugees returned home and began hostilities. Luka Petcovics of Shuma, near Trebinje, an old and expe- rienced insurgent, exiled for many years, came to take part; while from Servia came another exile of the insurrection of 1862, Ljubibratics, who was accompanied by several Ser- vians and Dalmatians. The then governor, Dervish Pasha, was openly accused of stimulating discontent, in order to distinguish himself in the repression, like Ismael Pasha, in Crete, in 1866. A body of troops, with another of Bashi-bazooks, were sent out, who burned a number of villages, and murdered the people they found on the road, armed or unarmed; and Constant Efifendi, an Armenian in the service of the Porte (since more known as Constant Pasha), sent an invitation to the principal malcontents to come to a conference and state their griefs. When they came near the rendezvous, they found Constant Effendi's assembly tent pitched within short range of an old fortification, where was concealed a body of troops ; and, accusing him of treachery, they re- fused to approach nearer, and thus ended this effort at conciliation. Meanwhile the insurrection had caused anxiety in Monte- negro, for the principality was not prepared for an outbreak, to which it could not rest alien, and which would surely draw the Montenegrins in. Peko Pavlovics was sent to pacifyit. This the old Turk-fighter did modo siio by capturing Ljubi- bratics, and marching him bodily across the frontier to Ragusa with his hands tied behind his back. I am inclined to think that the matter would have stopped there if the Turks had shown the slightest disposition to conciliation, as the encouraging elements were largely wanting. Russia 1 2 The Beginnings of the Insurrection, was not yet ready, and the whole affair, so far as committees and moral influence were concerned, was entirely in the hands of the Austrian Slavs, the committees of Zara and Ragusa being the chief. The Catholic districts along the frontier were the most enthusiastic in the revolt, while the Austrian authorities showed an extraordinary amount of complaisance to the insurgents. But the Catholics were tindery fuel, quickly kindled and quickly spent; help did not come as they had hoped for it, and fighting for them- selves was what they were not used to, and all the stimuli of the friendly Dalmatians were needed to keep the fire up. According to all the testimony I have been able to collect from the day of my arrival to the present, there was no diffi- culty in pacifying the province at this time, and no Govern- ment seemed disposed to stimulate the insurrection; and if the Porte had been capable of securing immunity from per- sonal oppression to the Christian there would have been no grounds for prolonging it.* Neither Russia nor Montenegro ^ Consul Holmes to the Earl of Derby. My Lord, Mostar, September 24, 1875. I have the honour to enclose copy of a despatch and its enclosures, addressed to Sir Henry Elliot on the loth, just before leaving Mostar to endeavour to communicate with the insurgents. At present the depar- ture of the post only allows me time to add that my Russian and French colleagues and myself returned here on the 22nd, having entirely failed to persuade the insurgents we met to submit, and to bring their com- plaints before Server Pasha. We did not, however, see any of the prihcipal chiefs of the insurrection, who were all in the neighbourhood of Trebinje. Our colleagues of Austria, Germany, and Italy returned on the 23rd, having been equally unsuccessful. They, however, saw the leaders of the insurrection near Trebinje, who demand an armistice, and a Euro- pean intervention to guarantee the reforms which may be adopted. I would here remark that, contrary to what is asserted in so many news- papers, the people of the Herzegovina neither demand, nor have ever desired, an impossible autonomy, as Servian agitators would have per- The Beginnings of the Instir^^ection, 1 3 could be indifferent to any similar movement at any time, but Russian influence had already suffered too much from pre- vious checks and withdrawals to risk either idle excitement of insurrection, or indifference to it actually excited. Mon- tenegro may profess neutrality as much as it pleases, but neutrality in the sense demanded of it, is, and always was, morally and politically impossible. But Montenegro was in no position to run the grave risks of war with Turkey, and though no international obligation held the Prince to prevent individuals from going into the war, his failure to do so was a convenient casus belli, and his declarations that he had kept them back w^ere politic indulgences in a species of evasion which the persistent habit of diplomacy prevents us from characterizing when practised by governments as we should if used by individuals. There is no room for denial that Prince Nikita did allow his subjects to go to the aid of Herzegovina, and that later many followed Peko, and that no one was ever punished, but that some were rewarded by medals for distinguished bravery. But this does not affect the fact, that at the juncture when Con- stant Effendi went to meet the insurgent chiefs, and the Catholic population had become discouraged and abandoned the war, the Turkish authorities might have pacified the province had they been so willed. But this was perhaps one of the very incapacities of the Ottoman organization — it cannot pacify except by force — there is no element of con- suaded them to do. They only ask to remain subjects of the Sultan, with reformed laws, and a proper and just administration of them. How to secure this is the difficulty. I^ext week I hope to forward a detailed report of my mission, the failure of which I have already telegraphed to Sir Henry Elliot. I have, &c., (Signed) W. R. Holmes. 14 The Beginnings of the Insurrection, ciliation or good faith in it ; and Constant Effendi, in trying to entrap the chiefs, took the only precaution in his power. The wrong and its consequences had so accumulated, that perhaps the strain to the system of administration, of doing justice to so much injustice, would have brought another explosion in the attempt to avoid this. What was possible and even i:)robable was^ that the refugees should have returned to Montenegro and Dalmatia, Austria securing immunity for the CathoHcs, and things might have been patched up until another explosion and a riper opportunity. And this bade fair to be the solution of the affair as its first phase ended. At this juncture (Aug. i8) came the Consular Commission. I do not know to whom its formation is due, but it is toler- ably certain that to it was due the reawakening of the insur- rection. It was a partial recognition by the Powers of the wrongs of the Herzegovinian, and an indication that the eyes of official Europe were on his state, — sufficient encour- agement at any time to make him revolt, and to stimulate the spirit of combativeness in the mountain regions bordering Montenegro ; and owing to this the whole aspect of the affair changed rapidly. When^ early in September, I arrived at Ragusa, the pre- liminary phase of the war was over. The bands that had been infesting the plain country about Trebinje, nominally besieging the city, had made only a kind of demonstration. There were few troops in the place, and the insurgents had taken up their quarters in the Monastery of Duzi, between Trebinje and the frontier. As soon as Turkish reinforce- ments arrived from Stolatz, the monastery was attacked, and the insurgents, abandoning it, fled across the frontier or to the mountains. A considerable body of them came across The Beginnings of the Insitrrection, 1 5 to Ragusa, and came on board the Lloyd's steamer by which I was a passenger, and proceeding to Castel Nuovo in the Bocche di Cattaro, landed with their arms and crossed the frontier to Zubci, where they had made rendezvous with their companions who, stronger on foot, had made the journey by land. Their arms were openly landed from the steamer, and no questions were asked by any one. [This was the policy until after the refusal of the insur- gents to accept the Andrassy Note the following winter.] The war in those parts was only a frolic for the volunteers, who went and came as they liked, going to Castel Nuovo for a change from camp -life, the mayor of that city being head of the committee which was charged with the distribution of arms and suppHes, and the channel of communication with the world was now by Sutorina. The so-called siege of Trebinje was merely a coup de theatre; no serious attack had ever taken place, and only in the regions near Montenegro and where an element of Monte- negrinism existed in the bands was there any serious fight- ing. During August Socica had raised the standard in the district of Piva, north of Niksics, and defeated the Turks in several small affairs, destroying many blockhouses, while Peko, finding that peace had not been made by his heroic treatment, and that Ljubibratics had returned, went over to the insurgents, and a number of Montenegrin volun- teers, with several hundreds of the pugnacious and Turk- hating Crivoscians, had joined the movement. The whole of Zubci, Yezero, Piva, Gatschko, Baniani, Rudini and Dabra, were under arms, and they possess a population of a different temper from those of Gabella, Popovo, and others- bordering on Dalmatia, and are comparatively free from the vexations of the Turkish rule. But, on the other hand, they 1 6 The Beginnings of the Insurrection, are exceedingly prone to fight for the sake merely of fight- ing the Turks. Great devastation was already being wrought, the Turks burning and destroying everything before them in the lower country, killing and plundering in all the Christian villages, and the insurgents naturally retaliating to their best on the Turkish. The trans-frontier districts were crowded with refugees — old men, women, and children. In the Bocche di Cattaro there was intense excitement and sympathy for the insurrection. From Crivoscie the whole able-bodied male population had gone to the war, and Zupa ^ prepared to follow. The Bocchesi have always made common cause with their Montenegrin kinsman as well as with the mountain Hezegovinian, being all of the same stock, combative habit, and religion. At Cattaro it was believed that Montenegro was on the point of de- claring war, and it was only in Montenegro one could ascertain what was being done. ' Crivoscie and Zupa are two of the most warlike districts of the Bocche di Cattaro and at opposite ends of the territory, the former .bordering on Herzegovina, the latter on Albania. CHAPTER II. I^HE difficult, dizzy road from Cattaro seems to be a great labour for little fruit when, after four hours of climbing, you enter the outermost plain of the Crnagora, and find a few arid acres in the midst of a great amphitheatre of grey, glistening rock, the interstices of which hardly give rooting to a chance shrub. Here and there a dwarfed evergreen is to be seen, and only on one side a strip of forest, of starveling, dwarfed, and gnarled beeches, more Hke a copse than a forest ; but with this narrow exception, all round the circle the desolation is like that of a silent volcano, arid as if internal fires had burnt out the juices of the earth. In little patches here and there along the edge of the hills, where the soil has been held by basins of rock, the husbandman has made his opportunity, and the little walled-in fractions of a rood, some of them not larger than 6 feet by lo feet, make their best, though poor, return of maize, potatoes, wheat, or grass. Where the space to be reclaimed permits it, the earth is terraced and protected from the wash of the torrents. It is a poor, gravelly soil at best, even in the plains, and little of it, at that, in comparison with the expanse of bare rock, and certainly nothing but liberty could make any people fight for it or care to keep it The Valley of Njegush, the natal place of the Prince of c 1 8 Njegtcsh, Montenegro, is the first ^halting-place. A score or two of small stone houses, mostly of two rooms each on the ground floor, with two or three of two stories, one of which was the residence of the family of the Prince, compose the tale of Njegush, the village ; and the soil around seemed hardly sufficient to support the few people in it. Few men were to be seen ; women carrying heavy loads, and children peering round the corners and doors to watch the unwonted stranger, were all that we saw. To say that the people were poorly dressed is little ; the garments of some of them were in tatters already, and in any civilized country they would, most of them, have been better off as beggars. But no one thought himself, or herself, the worse for it, and all saluted us with gravity and respect, but with no trace of servility. From Njegush to Cettinje the road is still more difficult — from a defensive point of view, much better; and I could hardly avoid the conviction that bad roads are an article of faith with the Montenegrin ; he will hardly see the poHcy of opening his country to artillery with the other modern im- provements until his independence is secured by an Euro- pean guarantee. The road between Njegush and Cettinje is so bad that there are places where one must dismount to descend safely ; but in a walk of four hours from the Austrian frontier we enter the Plain of Cettinje, the central plain of the Crnagora proper. The residence of the ruler of Montenegro is worthy its Lacedaemonian prototype. There is one straight, wide street, with about forty houses on each side, low, stone- built, and covered, some with tiles and some with thatch, and without chimneys ; none with more than one floor above the ground, some with only a ground floor, all nearly alike in accommodation and in pretension. In one is the Tele- Cettinje. 19 graph and Post-office, in another the Ministry of Communi- cations ; but no external sign indicates any difference between this and the meanest man's home. The end of the street is blocked by a larger house, also of two stories, which was built for an hotel, and which, lately, has been the best I found south of Trieste along the whole Slav country ; and a cross street leads down to the Prince's residence — a plain building which it would be courtesy only to call a palace ; it is merely the largest house in Cettinje. Opposite is the former residence of the Prince, made later a seminary, and then used for the accommodation of the few strangers who came here, the ground floor for Government offices. At the foot of the hills close by is a monastery, without occupants, except one or two old priests ; a few outlying houses, and this is all of Cettinje, except its people. In this, as in the other plains of Montenegro, beside the central village proper, a fringe of occasional houses runs round it built on the hill- slopes for economy of tillable land. Around is the same amphi- theatre of grey hills, only here the more friable rock permits the cHnging of scanty and impoverished trees in their inter- stices. The productions of the plain are mainly potatoes and maize, a few trees — either willow, poplar, or mulberry — and opposite the palace one elm-tree of considerable size, beneath which is a circular raised platform of stone, with two or three stone blocks, which serve as seats, and here the Prince administers justice. His body-guard, in the pic- turesque costume of the whole people, stand or sit around this tree, according as the Prince is present or not, or pass the time in athletic sports on the sward beside it. On meet- ing the Prince walking, with his guard following or walking beside him, a stranger finds it not easy to distinguish the ruler from his guard. One sees only a mass of three or four 20 The Montenegrin. score Montenegrins in ordinary costume. They all chat together, and I only learnt which was the Prince by his re- turning the salute. There is a simplicity and dignity in the Montenegrin which strikes almost all who know Scotland as resembling strongly the Highlander — grave, taciturn, and yet friendly if occasion offers — canny, soldierHke, and singularly reserved in expression of emotion by any outward sign. The moment was one in which the national temper was tried and displayed to the utmost. Servia had promised to enter the field, and the signal of her movement was to be that for the entry of the Montenegrins into Herzegovina to settle old scores with the Turk. Everybody was anxious to fight, but nobody wished it to appear that he was so — the whole of the three to four hundred men in Cettinje were in the streets, and the only sign of agitation one saw was perpetual movement. There was certainly something grand in this attitude of the smallest independent nation in the bounds of civilization chafing in the leash, and only caring to be free to attack, regardless of consequences or war alliances, its old-time enemy. Nobody thought what Europe or Russia would say or do : they only wanted to know if Servia was going to lead the way, and they be free to move. Finally came the day on which the telegram must arrive which would tell the course Servia was to follow, and one could feel the pulse of the whole principality on that main street, and the approaches to the palace. The population of Cettinje is not, it is true, large enough to be considered numerically as representing the opinion of Montenegro ; but it must be remembered that it includes all the highest functionaries, a body guard of picked men from all the principality, and many persons had come here to The Servza7t Crisis, 21 await the decision of the Servian Skuptchina, including many chiefs of the insurgents. That afternoon these were all in the streets as if waiting for a proclamation. All along the side of the street which leads to the palace was a solid line of men composed of the elements I have named. The Prince had gone the day before into the mountains — to hunt wolves, it was said — and that afternoon was to return. The rumour was current everywhere that Servia had yielded to diplomatic pressure, and that the rising was to be aban- doned. Dejection was on the face of everybody. The voivodes whom I knew, avoided conversation and even contact, and the Prince's aide-de-camp and those about his person, who had been in general communicative, kept away from us. I had, however, information enough to convince me that the Prince at an earlier period had had great pressure brought on him by the chiefs of the people to take up arms independently of Servia. It was beheved that with armed neutrality on the part of the Servian Government, and the passes of Novi Bazaar in the hands of Montenegrins, Klek could be made good against any force the Turks could bring against the Christians, and that in this w^ay the few battalions then in Herzegovina and Bosnia could be disposed of before any great force was brought up to effect a diversion unless they were marched through Servia, the neutrality of which would thus serve as a potent aid. Mean- while the insurgents, mixed and disciplined with Monte- negrins and armed, would become in a short time an effective force, increasing the strength of the defence faster than the attacking force would be increased. This initiative movement was favoured by some of the Prince's advisers, and he himself was known to be desirous of action, so that the temptation to give the word must have 2 2 Disappointment. been very great, and, whatever may have been his engage- ments or apprehensions, he was blamed by many for having lost an opportunity which might not return. Of course Russian influence goes for much, and if Russia had exerted it in a positive sense, the Prince might have gone into the war even alone, but Russia was utterly adverse, and I think I can say with certainty that this influence was then much weakened, and I heard bitter complaints of repeated dis- appointment from Russia having on former occasions given hopes which she took no pains to see fulfilled. I was told with acrimony the stories of the old wars when Russia had drawn Montenegro into war with Turkey, and then made peace alone, leaving the Montenegrins to the vengeance of the Turks. The opinion generally held was that the moment was the ,most favourable possible for a general move- ment, and its loss by diplomatic pressure was to be attri- buted either to Russian weakness or indifference, for no one had any very profound faith in a sincere interest on the part of Russia as to the fortunes of the people of Herzegovina. It then seemed to me beyond a doubt that if the Powers should assure Herzegovina a substantial liberty such as was recommended by *' The Times " at the beginning of the movement, the Prince would gladly accept the solution, and withdraw his moral influence from the insurgents if they were inclined to hold out, and this would have been con- clusive. I had the Prince's most earnest assurance that he would support with all his influence any arrangement of an equitable nature, which at that moment would have been decisive, because the withdrawal of such support as the principality had given would have compelled the submission of the most formidable section of the insurrection. The personal tendencies of the Prince, unlike his predecessors, Disappoi7itnient. 2 3 were to attain his ends by patience and peaceful ap- pliances if possible, but his people have a very different way of regarding the matter, and the most that could be done was, the least possible yielding to the national feeling, but without losing sight of the national aspirations. Looking back on the matter after a much fuller acquain- tance with Montenegro, I believe that it would have been unsafe and futile for the Prince to have attempted to cut off all aid for the insurgents. Thousands of them had fought for Montenegro in 1858 and 1862, and the strong tendency of the whole people was to throw itself into the war. The position of the Prince was a most difficult one. Obliged to identify himself with his people's feeling, he had no other control over them than their personal devotion, and must be careful how he exposed this to too great a strain. At the same time he must protect his future interest and keep his influence over the surrounding Slav populations, and as long as Dalmatian (J.e, Austrian) and Servian sympathizers were in the field for them, it was impossible that Montenegrins should not be there too, and equally so that they should not maintain their supremacy of courage and military efficiency, and I have no hesitation in saying that the Prince would have endangered his throne sooner or later by indifference to the struggle in Herzegovina. As to the public enthusiasm, so utterly damped, it was easy to estimate it by the dejection which followed the Servian defection and the pacific decision of the Prince. In fact, communication became difficult with any of the official people, and the Prince himself for days would see no one. Under the circumstances it was of course still more diffi- cult to restrain the Montenegrins, and there is no doubt that .a very considerable increase of Dg^fmaLJij^ty was conse- DIVERSITY 24 Nikita, quently accorded. Before leaving Cettinje I had an audience of the Prince, in which he expressed freely his dis- appointment. He most strongly repudiated any Russian direction or dictation, or intention to be pushed by Russia further than his own interests led him. He said that if he should decide to allow any aid to the insurgents compatible with international law, he could maintain it perfectly well until his own funds and suppHes were exhausted, and as many of his subjects as he was disposed to give co7ige to, would at once join the insurrection. All this he could easily do without visibly going further than Austria, and the utmost result to him or his country would be, that Turkey would declare war, for which he was quite prepared. The Prince expressed great disappointment at the inaction of Servia, and said that he was ready and willing to move with her had she moved, but that he did not feel justified, in spite of the desire and pressure of his people, in declaring war on Turkey alone. His soldiers were well organized and armed with breechloaders and artillery, whereas in 1862 they had only old-fashioned Albanian smoothbores. His supplies of ammunition were ample, and he did not apprehend defeat in the mountains from all the Turkish troops now in the field ; but the part of a faithful ruler was to spare useless shedding of blood of his people, and he remembered that, though in 1862 they defended their valleys against 60,000 Turks and fought for eight months alone, they were finally obliged to yield to the greater re- sources of the Porte, their ammunition being exhausted and 3,000 of their number killed without any result whatever ; and if now they were left to fight alone they would probably ultimately meet the same fortune, which he would not take the responsibility of provoking by a declaration of war singly. Nikita, 25; but his position was such that he could not recoil from any consequence of his strong sympathy, and that of his people,, with the Herzegovinians. The event of war might be the same in either case, but while he was wiUing to risk the event, he was not willing to assume the responsibility before Europe of inviting it by a declaration of war. He disclaimed any ambition in connection with the in- surrection, and was willing, in case the Powers should decide to guarantee an autonomy to the Herzegovinians, to exert his utmost influence towards the speedy cessation of the insurrection, though without some such guarantee being given to the insurgents it would be impossible for him to take any pacificatory action in the matter. The insurgents- were a kindred people; they looked 'to him for his moral support at least, and he could not refuse it. His own people would support him unanimously should he go further even ; but in view of all the circumstances he regarded the cessa- tion of bloodshed as the most important object if accom- panied by concession of the requisite security of the Rayahs. He said that the mission of the Consuls would be fruitless, because it was based on Turkish promises of redress, and the experience of the people with regard to these promises was such that they had no value whatever in their eyes. He was confident that the insurrection would hold out at least through the winter, which he believed would be very trying to the Turkish troops from warmer regions, as the cold of the mountain districts is very intense, while the mountaineers being accustomed to it would suffer, much less. He begged me finally, in case war should break out, which he still regarded as possible, to come up again and accompany him during the campaign. It was impossible not to sympathize with a ruler placed 26 To G7^akovo. in this position, keenly awake to all its dangers and re- sponsibilities, and devoted to his people with a really paternal devotion. I left Cettinje with the feeling of having extended my own horizon by the discovery of a people of the old heroic type— a survival of the Homeric age, doubtless with heroic vices which also survive elsewhere, but with some virtues which hardly survive the larger civilization. I think that few Englishmen could resist this impression, and most would entertain a wish that Montenegro might be preserved intact and unchanged by civilization as a study of what mankind has once been. Anxious to see something of the condition of the refugees, and, if possible, of Montenegrin preparation, I decided to go to Grahovo, the chief place of the canton of the same, name north of Cettinje. There is a direct road, but the Prince advised me, for greater faciHty and economy of time, to go by way of the Bocche di Cattaro, the direct road being so difficult; and for Montenegrins, indeed, the usual route is to return to Cattaro and then by boat to Risano, whence a good Austrian road leads to Dragal on the frontier, whence a fair one continues to Grahovo. Leaving Risano by early light, there is barely time to see what was to be seen at Grahovo, say two to three hours, and get back by dark. The route lies through Crivoscie, scene of disaster to the Austrian arms in 1869; and even an eye without military training can see enough to say it were no shame to the best troops in the world to be defeated by bellicose peasants with the country in their hands. The road winds along slopes more awful and dizzy than those of the Cettinje road even, and where, from its tortuousness, artillery is useless ; and bands of courageous men might stop all passage by Grahovo, 27 rolling stones down on the troops. The limestone rock is upheaved in vertical dykes, which are like interminable walls, each of which is difficult to climb for an unencum- bered pedestrian; — making any movement, except by the- road, impossible to men who cannot run and jump like goats, and who know the ground imperfectly. Sharp angles in the face of the mountains would suddenly expose the head of a column to the fire of any number of men at close quarters. My plan had been to return to Ragusa by way of Trebinje, but the road that way was still worse. From Grahovo to Trebinje the distance by map is about fifteen miles ; but I was told that, for all, the easier way was to Risano, thence by boat again to Castel "Nuovo, and thence via Zubci, the direct road being very difficult even for the mountaineers. We had a witness of the reality of the war early in the journey, in an old couple escaping from Herzegovina with what remained of their goods, and who had travelled from Lubimir, one hour beyond Trebinje, all the way on foot, carrying burdens which 1 should have been sorry to shoulder for a mile. They could not have been less than seventy years old; and, judging from the general appearance of old people here, I should say they were more likely to be eighty. Further on we met a whole family, loaded also with their remaining substance, the mother carrying her youngest in its cradle strapped on her back, all loaded except a little fellow of three, who skipped along the rocky road barefooted in great glee. The father had remained behind ; the grand- father, too old to fight, accompanied the family to security. A few sheep and goats went ahead, their present sole sus- tenance. Next was a wounded Bocchese, just from Gatschko, where he had lost a couple of fingers in a recent fight, and 28 Grahovo, taken his revenge by cutting off the head of the Turk— an Aga of that country, whose sword, heavily mounted with silver, pistols of the same richness, and jacket covered with buttons and ornaments of heavy silver, he wore. His horse and all it carried were plunder. He told us that Dervish Pasha, with seven battalions of regulars (the battahon, I heard from best Austrian authority, not ranging higher in force than about 400 to 450 men), with two or three bat- talions of irregulars, had succeeded in re-victualling Piva, the body of Christians (to whom the informant belonged) being only 300 strong, and unable to hold the ground. The local authorities at Grahovo informed me that a convoy of provi- sions was in a day or two expected from Ragusa, at Trebinje, and that a grand attack was to be made. This was the reason, probably, that the forces which were around Gatschko were so small. From every side I gathered confirmation of the opinion, that the insurrection was not prepared by outside intrigues ; that the committees did not expect it, and were unprepared for it — unprepared to aid it efficiently. The number of good rifles was small in comparison with that of insurgents, and I saw numbers who carried the old-fashioned ticfek. They com- plained that they were unable to attack the Turks with effect, on account of their guns not having any range, so that they had to choose positions where the troops came to close quarters. Rifles were, however, slowly arriving, and it was clearly impossible, with the sympathy existing for the insur- gents in the Slav population of Austria, to devise or carry out measures which should prevent the introduction of arms and munitions in Herzegovina ; and any attempt to follow up such rigorously, would then have made incalculable trouble for the Government. Some people in the Bocche di Crivoscians. 29 Cattaro were contributing as much as the sixth of their income to the support of the insurgents. The Crivoscians again, who formed by much the largest foreign element in the insurrection, were not to be restrained by any governmental order ; and with the greatest resolution so to do, the Austrian authorities could not have prevented them from crossing the frontier when they pleased. The Montenegrins at Grahovo spoke highly of the fighting capa- city of the Crivoscian, but said that he was invariably a thief. The men of the lower Herzegovina again were honest ; but though the first to rise, indifferently good insurgents. The value of a man as a fighter depends apparently on his geo- graphical position — the nearer the Montenegrin frontier the better the man ; and in the lower country, where the predomi- nance of the Mussulman element has been more complete, the character of the people is correspondingly debased. The people of that section, to use the words of a Montenegrin offi- cial, " think of nothing but the stick of the Turk ;" while with the Montenegrin, the Crivoscian, and their kindred mountain- eers, courage is the dominant quality, and the highest ambi- tion is to die fighting : so that they only say of a man that he has died when he dies a natural death; they say of a man who has been killed in battle that '*he is missing," and his family regard the peaceful death as a proper cause for mourning — not that in battle. We met on the road, or were overtaken by, a number of men going home with booty, or wounds, or returning to fight, and the number of men visible other than those was very small. The number of women and children was very con- siderable, however. The *' political captain " of the village said that there were about 1,000 distributed among the houses, the church, and camping out ; some having brought 30 Reftigees. their flocks, and some nothing but the rags on their backs. He said that those who had their flocks received nothing from the Government ; but those who had nothing, had a small allowance. He had that morning given out the last provisions in store, and until something more came there was nothing to give them, except the ungathered maize in the fields. Others were continually arriving, and some of the fighting men were engaged in hunting out and bringing in, wandering individuals or families from the moun- tains of Herzegovina. Here, too, -was a rude hospital, where such of the insurgent wounded as were near the Montene- grin frontier were brought as to the nearest point of safety. We went to see some of the refugees — for the most part women, and in such a state of rags and misery that they would not have been allowed to beg in the streets of London, with two or three old men past the fighting age even for this country. [We overtook one going to the war from Crivoscie, who had forgotten whether he was seventy-five or seventy-six.] My companion asked what made them leave home to come here. They did not seem to have any definite idea, except that it was to escape from the Turks. It was evidently a general panic, usual in insurrections in the Turkish pro- vinces. Long experience has taught the Christians that the repression of an insurrection is always accompanied by general and murderous barbarity ; and that once fighting begins, there is no safety for Christians, women or children, any more than men, except in flight across the borders, or into the inaccessible mountains. The whole of Turkish history justifies the apprehension — the habit of the Turk being to strike without distinction of persons or criminality. W^hen questioned as to their special grievances, they all said the same thing — the Turks robbed them, took whatever Refugees, 3 1 they wanted — their animals, what they had in their houses, and even their daughters when they took a fancy to them, and they never saw them any more. Into this grievance we inquired most particularly, because it will be found to be the true tide-mark of Turkish oppression. In some pro- vinces taxes may be intolerable and justice unattainable, and yet the Mussulman will not venture to carry away the women. They all assured me, both women and men, that it was common, and they complained bitterly of their bishops, who, when their girls were carried away, showed na zeal to reclaim them. One tall, haggard old woman, about sixty, stood listening like a statue of misery, and the tears began flooding her eyes and running down her wrinkled cheeks, not a muscle moving, watching my friend who inter- preted, until finally, with the recital of some kindred suffer- ing, the stone melted, and she buried her face in her ragged robe and burst into violent weeping. She had no soul left of all her family. By one way or another she was alone. It was brutal to question her further. My own eyes had tears too near for me to speak without giving way. I turned away, not to betray myself, and walked to the high road. Down by the church, they said, was the" great assemblage — would I go to see them ? These were only the hungry ones who had come for the bread no one had to give them. No, I didn't care to see or know anything more; I could do nothing, not even if my pockets were full. So I went to see the wounded, in smoky cabins, lying on the ground, their wounds unwashed, in dirty bandages ; no water to sj^are here^ for all that they had was brought a mile on women's backs^ the long drought having dried up all running water, and cis- terns being all exhausted ; no surgeon either, and all grave wounds these. Outside one young man with a ball through 32 Castel Nuovo. his foot was bargaining for a gun to go back to the war with. He showed me laughingly the pieces of bone he had taken from his foot, and which he kept carefully wrapped in paper, as if something talismanic were in them. We went to two or three houses, all alike, except that some of the patients had beds. I learnt at Risano with great pleasure that an Austrian surgeon was going up to Grahovo to attend to the wounded, and that the Government intended sending food for the refugees. We reached Risano late in the evening, taking the steamer thence for Castel Nuovo the next morning. At Castel Nuovo was the depot and direction of the insurrection, arsenals, and storehouses, and seat of the dis- tributing committee. The little strip of territory belonging to Turkey, which here comes down to the sea, afforded the most important facilities to the insurgents, and to reach it from Castel Nuovo was only a half-hour's walk. Here volunteers, rifles, ammunition, provisions, &c. were landed ad libitum, as I had the evidence of my own eyes to prove, and the insurgents had the freedom of the frontier, coming and going in absolute freedom. No concealment was prac- tised whatever in conducting any kind of military operations which circumstances permitted. I found that sharp fighting had been going on in the neighbourhood of Zubci, and that my hope of visiting the insurgent camp via Trebinje, or vice versa, was vain, for no communication that way was practicable, as I had got no escort, and I was assured that the country was most unsafe, even with the best escort I could have obtained. Besides, the insurgents w^ere in motion, nobody knew where, and I was again compelled to make a flank movement to find them. I had, however, an opportunity of examining the fortress and barrack of Sutorina, destroyed by the insurgents, and Sutorina. 33 the destruction of which called down on the authors of it a great deal of denunciation. It seemed to me, however, a measure admissible in a military point of view, if it had been complete, as the building was really a strong fortress, unassailable by any means in the hands of the insurgents, if once occupied by a Turkish force. Besides, the Christians were in entire uncertainty whether the Austrian Government might not at any day have allowed troops to land at Sutorina, as they had at Klek, in which case their most available and natural source of supplies would be cut off. I was able also to visit the place near Sutorina where the cartridges were manufactured, and got here an indication of the disorder and want of common sense in the conduct of their affairs, which told its story even more clearly than the fact that the insurgents could not be depended on to obey orders when their fancy led them in another direction. These cartridges were made for the whole insurrectionary force; and as the men were armed in part with rifles and part with tufeks, &c., and the ammunition distributed indis- criminately, it was clear that one-half must be badly served in any event; but as the ball in the cartridge was made small enough to suit the smallest calibre, and round, or as near round as bad casting brings it, the consequence was that the much-valued rifles w^ere used with round balls, half filling the bore, the extreme range of which would certainly not be above 200 yards, doing small damage at that. In fact, the members of the committees in 'general seemed to think that to keep up an insurrection, it is only necessary to get as many men together as possible, and send in bread, rifles, and ammunition, anyhow and anywhere, trusting to the chapter of accidents to keep things all right. The com- mittees were badly organized ; and though they contained D 34 Insttrrectionary Eqtcipme^it, men of unquestionable ability and devotion to the cause, there was not one man, so far as I saw, who had any concep- tion of what insurrectionary organization ought to be. In fact, what I saw at Castel Nuovo alone would have been sufficient to assure me that there had been no preparation for insurrection, or definite purpose in direction. This was the greatest weakness of the movement. There was no want of men — there were more than could be armed ; nor is the want of military organization and discipline of great importance in a war where no regular operations are possible, and where, from the difficulty of the country, no great danger of surprises by the troops is to be apprehended. Even the question of provisions is one of less importance than in regular operations ; and these m.en were accustomed to go two or three days without bread, and sometimes thirty- six hours without water; they rarely drink coffee, or even raki, in their movements, and are gay under privation which would paralyze any regular troops. But men who have not ammunition fit for their use, and are obliged to expose them- selves to the fire of the Turkish breechloaders for a certain time before they can get near enough to do any harm in return, must have more than ordinary military courage to effect anything beyond closing difficult passes, and keeping the troops on the qui vive. To inflict any material damage on the regulars, they needed not only rifles, but ammuni- tion for rifles, and this the committees had not had expe- rience enough to understand the meaning of To see anything of the Turkish side of the question, it was necessary to get back to Ragusa^ and to Ragusa I went by steamer again. CHAPTER III. URING my absence in Cettinje the bands of the upper Herzegovina had come down and taken possession of the road to Trebinje, and had captured a provision train and carried it off to their camp at Glavski-dol. Hussein Pasha had sent out a battalion, with a strong squad of Mussulmans of Trebinje, to attack the camp, and they had been drawn by Peko Pawlovics into an ambush and utterly defeated, leaving eighty dead bodies behind them, amongst whom were several leading Beys of Trebinje, the main force escaping to the shelter of the block- houses in uncontrolled panic. The Pasha organized another expedition, which, however, after a slight skirmish on the main road, retreated to Trebinje again, and the insurgents held undisturbed possession of the road. When I proposed to go to the beleaguered city there had been for several days no news, the foot postman being inter- dicted. But a Ragusa fiacre and an undaunted coachman were found equal to the occasion, and in company with correspondents of an American, a French, and an Italian journal, furnished with the Turkish visa, and with the in- surgents well warned that we were not enemies, I started. For three or four miles the road is either in Austrian territory or close to it, and protected by two blockhouses. Czarina 36 To Trebmje, and Drien. This position is very wild, but^ Drien once passed, we had before us a drive of three hours, through a country not nearly so difficult as any part of Montenegro which I have seen, and found the whole country, with the exception of the hills just about Drien on the frontier, and three or four miles near Trebinje, entirely abandoned to the insurgents. The guard over a store of flour, &c. on the Austrian frontier, assured us that for five days not even the post had passed over the space so given up. The outposts were sufficiently on the qui vive to justify one in thinking that the enemy had been sighted. Three Austrian peasants from Brieno, waiting a chance to go to Trebinje, begged the protection of our shadow, in abject fear of finding themselves alone face to face with the terrible " Montenegrins." Not a long rifle-shot from the outposts the driver pointed out the locality of the beginning of the "great fight" where the convoy was taken. The ground was still red with blood in spots along the road, and the Brienesi assured us that half an hour further on we should find the " Greeks." The country gives capital cover, though not precipitous. It seems from the hills at Drien to be a plain, but when we get down into it we find it cut up by numerous shallow ravines, and studded with crags and spurs of limestone from three to ten feet high, between which, in the interstices, were rooted scrubby oaks and other bushes. A thousand men might lie within a hundred feet of the road and not show a cap. The whole region was deserted by every Hving creature, so far as we could see. Watching carefully, I saw finally, a short rifle- shot from the road, a human head above a rock, but in a moment it had disappeared. Half-way through this dreary waste, which I can only compare to a vast glacier turned into stone, where a wretched vegetation had found a myste- Trebinje, 37 rious raisoji d'eti'e^ the peasants pointed out to us a dead Turkish soldier lying by the roadside, his face in the mud left by the recent rain, divested of every article of clothing but his shirt, but in no wise mutilated. He was a corporal, we aftenvards found, killed in the last skirmish, and had lain there ever since, the troops not daring to venture so far to recover the body. We saw no other sign of humanity until, with our frantic escort of Brienesi racing ahead of the carriage at its best speed, we fell in with the outposts of the Turks not far from Duzi, where a battalion had come out to protect the wood- cutters. They were keeping a very lively look-out from every little eminence, but asked us no questions. Trebinje is a dull place to be blockaded in, and, as no news had come from the outside world for five days, we were much stared and wondered at. The surgeon of the Pasha met us at the entrance of the city and led us to the Konak, where his Excellency received us with all the politeness and gravity of a true Turk, and gave us the official version of all the recent affairs, in all of which he assured us, except the one in which the convoy was taken, the troops had been vic- torious. In this he admitted that they had been drawn into an ambuscade, and had some twenty or thirty men killed. I did not say to him that a friend of mine visiting the insurgent camp had counted eighty heads stuck up on poles, nor did I ask why, if the insurgents had been so triumphantly scattered in the last affair, according to his account of it, the troops had not brought away their dead corporal. The poor fellow was so amiable and courteous, and seemed so despondent and so really unable to understand why the insurgents should try to do them so much harm, that I had not the heart to dispel the least of his illusions, but consoled him with the 38 Htcssien Pasha. assurance that diplomacy would soon settle the question. He informed us that he had 2,000 troops, but that bands of the insurgents, instigated by foreign emissaries, were fomenting the movement and drawing the peaceable people into it, overrunning the country and burning the villages of those who refused to join them, so that it was impossible for the troops to go from one place to another. It was evident that he really believed this version of the whole matter, and we left his faith undisturbed. His soldiers were evidently not starving, but luxuries were not rife. We got some eggs, a couple of boxes of sardines, and some bread and Dutch cheese, and this was all, except half-dried grapes and sour wine, that Trebinje could command. The Pasha spoke a little French, and manifested some acquaintance with European matters, asking, amongst other things, how many people were employed on *' The Times." I repHed, "a tabor" (battalion), knowing that a tabor meant, with them, anything from one to eight hundred men. He asked me if there were not other journals of great circulation printed in London, and on my replying in the affirmative, wondered why they did not consolidate and make one much greater. He could not understand the value of an oppo- sition. There was something really pathetic and touching in his manner of regarding the persecution of the insurgents and the grievance and uncomfortableness of his situation — something accordant with the popular idea of oriental civili- zation : dreamy and poetical ; intensely unpractical, at least. The sole European official in the city, the Austrian Con- sular Agent, Vercevics, invited us to coffee, and welcomed us with a cordiality which was in itself an expression of the en7iui of his position. He had been fourteen years there, he said, and his heart was sickened more at what he saw the Vercevics. 39 unhappy Christians of the country suffer than from his solitude. The story he told fully confirms all I have said of the condition of the Rayah. On one point I think his opinion valuable to the public, the more as he is, from his position, his years, and his constant relation with the common people and those with whom the casual traveller has no intercourse, and who only will tell their feelings to one they can thoroughly trust, a most competent witness in a matter on which people even here differ much — i.e. the probable fate of the Mussulman Slav population if the provinces fall into other hands. He said that the real antagonism is not so much between the Rayah and the Mussulman as between the Rayah and the Mussulman landlord, and that the mass of the Slav Mussul- mans are poor, and indifferent to the distinctions which lie at the root of the difficulty with the Agas. There is, he said, a small number of fanatical Mahometans who will leave the country if it pass under Christian domination, and some of the old aristocracy who will fight hard against the change; but the mass will be better content under any Government which gives them justice than they are now without it, and will not be disturbed by any political change. Of this, he said, he could furnish strong confirmation if we had the time to look into his documents, but, as we had only a short time at our disposal, we were unable to do so. The difficulties, he said, of a solution of this question are much exaggerated by those interested in keeping up the status quo, but he was absolutely certain that for the great mass of the Mussulman population, almost as poor and oppressed as their Christian compatriots, the change would be a welcome one. The troops were a good-looking set of fellows, cheerful, patient, and full of life and even frolic, but almost as ragged 40 Turkish Soldiers, as the insurgents, while as to the irregulars they were neither better looking nor better armed. The Turkish regulars are a fine body of men physically, but it seemed pitiful to send them, with such organization and in such leading as they had, to fight where nothing but perfect discipHne can make head, even if that could, and where every element of military morale is requisite to secure solidity, not to speak of success. In all cases where I have been amongst Turkish regulars I have found my favourable personal impression confirmed. Brutal and bloodthirsty they can be at times, when Christians are concerned, but apart from this they seem docile, cheerful, gay even. It seems to me that nothing can account for it, except a total want of intellectual excitability, accompanied with abundant animal life. As for Christians, they are always accustomed to consider them as of less value than dumb brutes, and generally a Turk will treat a dog with a tender- ness as remarkable as his brutality towards a Christian. One can only say that at heart he is a good fellow, and that his religion is to blame. Our return to Ragusa was made with as little incident as our journey out. We found the next day that the rebel sentries had taken account of us and sent in an accurate description of the whole party. The new arrivals of Turkish troops at Klek, and the descent of the insurgent bands into Lower Herzegovina, consequent on the decision of Montenegro not to enter into the aftair, led to an expedition to close the road from the sea at Klek. Unfortunately for the plan, it was know^n to the committees and their friends, and so, finally, to everybody, including the watchful Turkish officials at Ragusa; and when, after junction of the bands of Ljubibratics and Peko with those of the Zubci, &c. they started for Klek, the Turkish JNIVERSITY Utovu. commanders were on the look-out vnXh full knowledge of the insurgent plans, which were to take possession of Klek as a permanent position and make it the base of operations. Of the whole number of insurgents in the bands, about 2,000 were selected, and, by long, rapid marches, went from Glavski-dol through the Popovo plain, intending to attack Ljubinje, a strong Mussulman village, where were great quantities of supplies, to take possession of these, and carry them off to Klek to serve as provisionment for their camp. At one of the Popovo villages where they stopped, they were informed that a large Turkish force was at Ljubinje, but nothing at Klek, where a convoy was to arrive next day, and the chief of the village, who gave the information, ad- vised that the insurgents should not go to Ljubinje but to Klek, where there were no troops. Following the advice, they found at Utovu a body of troops coming from Klek holding the road in front of them, and had scarcely engaged them when they heard the trumpets of - another column coming from Stolaz on their rear. A sharp attack by Peko's men on the right wing of the Turks drove them back and opened the way to the insurgents, who had barely cleared the hills on the Popovo side of the road when the first shots of the advancing troops from Stolaz fell amongst their rear harmlessly ; they lost four killed, and brought their wounded, seventeen, to Ragusa, They brought away fifty-eight noses of Turks killed, and as compensation for the treachery burned the village at which they had been falsely informed, on their way back. Returning, the chiefs made their main station at Grebci, three hours from Ragusa and just across the frontier, con- venient for supplies, and easily defensible from the Her- zegovina side. 4 2 Ljubih^atics, I decided to go up at once and spend a few days in the camp, but Ljubibratics coming into Ragusa with an attack of fever, I paid him a visit at the hotel, and received from him a summary of the general desires and aims of the un- political Herzegovinian, /. e. a partisan of none of the external combinations, but of the freedom, as far as might be, of the people of the province. Without attaching greater importance to him than is his due, I think he said what his compatriots really desired at that time, and which was more than would have pacified them a month earlier. When I entered his room he was on the point of sending a message to me, and we at once entered on a discussion of Herzegovinian affairs and of public opinion in England in reference to the movement. He was strongly opposed to .any foreign domination of the Slav organization, and especially to that of Russia ; but he said that he and his compatriots •were decided to put an end to Turkish misgovernment of their province, by driving out the Turk or leaving the country depopulated and ruined. They had tried before and had experience of Turkish promises and reforms, and now they were resolved to make the struggle conclusive : if they could not live free in their own country, free from this horrible system of slavery, which made the Herzegovinian nothing more than a brute, without instruction, without hopes, and without the commonest rights of humanity, they would drive their famiHes out of the country and leave the Turk nothing but the bare and impoverished land — they would fight while they could hold together, and, when nothing more was possible, would divide into small parties and ravage and harry the Turks until they themselves were exterminated. In reply to what would content them in the way of concessions, he said, promptly : *^ From the Turk Ljubibratics. 43 nothing less than autonomy ; we have had enough of their promises, and will listen to no more. We cannot live under Turkish administration." " But," said I, " if the Powers in- tervene and guarantee reforms, would you refuse them ? " ''Certainly," he replied, ''we would accept under the guarantee of the Powers, if all united in it, any reforms which assured us personal liberty and security, if the execu- tion of them were intrusted to the Prince of Montenegro or some of the Christian Powers. The reforms must be radical, and we know that such will not be put in execution by the Turks." The departure for the camp was postponed for one day longer, as there were consultations with the committee, &c. ; and it was finally two p.m. before Ljubibratics left Ragusa, and, going by way of Gravosa and the river of Ombla, we began our ascent of the mountain road, which, after passing through the narrow strip of Dalmatia which divides Herze- govina from the sea, leads into the valley of Grebci just across the frontier. As far as Ossoinics the road was fair, always steep, between bare, slippery rocks — two or three little villages on the way, with some level land with vineyards and olive-trees, but for the most part rugged declivities without other herbage than scanty and scrubby trees — getting more and more steep and broken as we approach the fron- tier, and finally so bad that it was like mounting a staircase with huge steps. We passed the frontier after sunset, and entered by the twilight into another of those huge broken amphitheatres of desolation of which I described one in Montenegro, down the slope of which we descended in the increasing obscurity, the light barely sufficing to show us the ya^vning clefts in the limestone-rock, among which the path led, zig-zag, here and there, between crags and sharp-cornered 44 T"!^^ Insurgent Camp, ledges, and when we reached the last declivity, and came in sight of the camp-fires, we found that it was barely possible to see where to put our feet. The pickets were going out for their guard of the passes, merry as children. Grebci is a fair type of the villages of the Herzegovinian hills, and a village of forty or fifty houses, mostly of one story, with the ground for floor, the walls of uncut stone, without mortar, and the roofs of stone or thatch, laid on small tree trunks, the whole most primitive and inexpensive. There are no chimneys, and the fire is made in the middle of the floor. Scarcely any glazed windows, but a hole in the w^all, shut by a door when need is, plenty of holes in the roof for ventila- tion and escape of smoke. The night being bright and still, all the world was out-of-doors, every house having its squad of ten to twenty men, its separate camp-fire in the little garden or in the street. We found each fire surrounded by a circle of insurgents, all talking, laughing, and clamouring for the news as we came by. We stopped for the moment at the Italian head-quarters, where the '^Squadra Italiana'" (sifted down from its original fifty or more of dubious material to a dozen resolute fellows, with one Frenchman, Barbieux^) were merrier and more musical than all the rest. Like the others, they were in wretched plight as to their externals. Their shoes were patched, of all constructions, most of them hardly keeping their feet from the rocks, and the rest of their equipment made up to correspond. The voivode spoke in the highest terms of their courage and endurance. They were, he said, ^ One of the few foreigners who adhered to the movement throughout, dying at Grahovo of diphtheria in the Montenegrin campaign, just after the battle of Vucidol, a brave man, a good soldier, and a lover of human freedom. Those who knew him well will ever remember him with regret at the untimely end of his career. G rebel, 45 the life of the camp, and greatly respected by the actual insurgents, whose great delight was to get round their quarters at night and listen to their songs. Near by theirs were the quarters of ten Russians, who had just joined — tough, solid-looking fellows ; beyond these the Zubcians and the men of the confines of Montenegro. I might go on and make a catalogue like Homer's if I had a care. These were the picked and solid material of the force under Ljubibratics and Peko, about 900 men, to whom, under emergencies, were added several hundred more. Of these about 250 were Montenegrins, the rest mainly Herzegovinians. We were introduced to Peko ; Melentie, the fighting Archi- mandrite of Duzi; Luka Petcovics and the popes Bogdan Simonies, Minja, and Milo. We were passed from hand to hand, and when salutations were over, went to a sort of granary, where assembly was held, and where, while we lay on a couch of straw spread on the ground, or sat on rude log seats, the Italians held their usual evening's entertain- ment, and while, at our backs, the half of a goat was roasting for our supper, we listened to the songs of many nations — French, Italian, Servian, Polish, with some of incompre- hensible patois between. When the meat was roasted it was laid on a heavy plat- form, which served for bedstead at night and table by day, and was hacked to pieces by the yataghans which had served at Utovu. It was late, and we were all tired, which, with other reasons needless to enumerate, made my appetite slight, and after supper the correspondents were called off, and, salutation made, we were shown our quarters, one of the upper rooms of the chief house of the village. There were two rooms on the story, and in the outer a huge fire was blazing in the middle of the tiled floor, which filled the 46 G^'ebci, place with blinding smoke. In the other was spread some fresh, clean straw, also on bare tiles, and here, as in the choicest quarters they could give us, w^e five lay down to sleep, the room hot and smoky ; but, weary as we were with our four hours' hard and rapid climb, even the thin straw which allowed us to recognize the tiles too well, seemed a grateful bed. Scarcely, howeyer, had we begun to doze when we were aware of invading armies more numerous and less easily repulsed than the Bashi-bazooks, who left no chance for sleep. If, in sheer exhaustion, I dozed for a moment after a successful chase, I was awakened by a sharp attack in another quarter. At length, in sheer des- peration, I sat up, put my back to the wall, and lighted a cigar, abandoning all hope of repose. Long before daybreak we got up, called our giant Her- zegovinian keeper, and bade him make us some coffee. He blew the fire into a flame, and, as the good we desired w^as plentiful in camp — Peko having, the day before, captured a convoy of six mules loaded with coffee and sugar, on the Trebinje road — we had two cups each. By this time day had begun to break, and I walked out. The camp fires were still burning, and around every fire lay the squad it belonged to stretched on the bare ground in a sleep so sound that even our walking among them scarcely waked one. The clear October night was not tropical, and I found my overcoat necessary; but many of the insurgents had not even a blanket, and most of the Italians and all the Russians were sleeping under the stars. I had intended to pass two or three days in camp, but found myself incapable of the degree of endurance required. The voivode went off to the council of war, and then to examine the condition of the squads who were to take part Grebci. ' 47 in a movement that day, and we strolled about till breakfast. We left at eight a.m., Ljubibratics walking with us part of the way to talk of the politics of the question. He is a man of education and of political knowledge, and understood the value of public opinion in England, and easily accepted what I said to him of the importance of moderating the demands of the insurgents to the standard of reasonable and prac- ticable concession, if they wished England to interest herself in a favourable settlement of the affair. " If England in- terests herself in our condition, I have a hope that it may be bettered," were his last words. CHAPTER IV. ^S Ljubibratics appears to the public a principal figure in the record of this affair, and as in sub- sequent military matters he had little importance, I will at this point show what part was his in a movement the spontaneity of which has been so much denied. Native of a village near Trebinje, he in early life came to Dalmatia, where he is remembered as a shop-boy. When the affair of 1862, known as the insurrection of Luka Vukalovics, broke out, Ljubibratics (an assumed name ; his real one I have forgotten) joined it, and was well spoken of for bravery. A dreamer and enthusiast, with little practical knowledge of men and none of military matters, the part he took in the present insurrection was one of agitation, and as he. spoke fluently both French and Italian, he drew round himself all the foreign volunteers, and by his hostility to all barbarous customs, and attempt to follow those of civiHzed warfare, he secured their adherence and a certain consideration beyond Herzegovina, while he alienated most of the mountaineers, who had no respect for those refinements. When energetic military operations began he found the most valuable fighting element deserting him, and he was left at Grebci with his volunteers and the men of the plain, who were better insurgents when no fighting was to be done than when the Turks were Ljicbibratics. 49 in sight. The mountaineers (Montenegrins, Banianici, Zubcians, Pivans, Crivoscians, &c.) had sufficient acumen to see that he was too irresolute and ideal to have any miHtary success, and his proclamations and moral influence they had no use for. He played the part, very much in miniature, which Kossuth had in Hungary in 1849. But this was not his real value to us. The part he took and the influence he exerted were greatest at the beginning of the outbreak, and his hostility to Russian, and even Mon- tenegrin, influence in the insurrection, which finally led to his being driven out of the camp and Upper Herzegovina by Peko and the party which favoured Montenegro ; as well as the control he had over the movement in its early phases, showed that he was, as he declared (and, whatever his faults, I have never doubted his entire honesty), and as I had other and sufficient later reasons for believing, no emissary of either Russia or Montenegro, and if of Servians, only of a party, or of individuals, and anxious that Herzegovina should be organized independently of any foreign influence. He showed as little political sagacity as military talent ; for he could not have failed to understand, with tolerable political good sense, that the only part of Herzegovina capable of resisting the Turk was exactly that which was, and must necessarily be, under the sole influence of Montenegro. But the facts, that he obeyed no instructions from Monte- negro, and finally even threw ofl" his Servian advisers j that he was always kept in the field through the eflbrts of the Zara committee, hostile always to Montenegro; that the moment the Montenegrins took control and direction of the movement he was driven out and compelled to go beyond the Narenta ; and that with all this he was the most influential person connected with the revolution in this early phase, 50 Popovo Massacre, shows with sufficient conclusiveness that at least Russia had not then anything to do with the matter. The animosity of Ljubibratics to the Russian influence was as open as it was bitter, and of this I had ample evidence at all times. In the lull which followed the defeat at Utovu, the incon- gruous elements of which Ljubibratics and Peko wxre repre- sentatives, broke into open dissension, each accusing the other of being the cause of the defeat, and Peko with all the Mountain, thro wing off all respect for Ljubibratics' s authority, and breaking up the camp at Grebci, went off to Zubci, and Ljubibratics followed, only controlling, however, a few reliable volunteers, the indifferent war material of Popovopolje, and a quantity of drift-wood, always at the distribution of bread, and never at a skirmish. General discouragement ensued. At this time there was great discord, and no power of resis- tance, except in the mountain country; and if the Turkish com- manders had had any energy they would have followed up their advantages by occupying all the strategical points of the plain country, and by an effective movement on Zubci. Shefket Pasha, subsequently known better in Bulgaria, found it more to his taste to make military promenades and send despatches of victories where he had never even fought a battle j and the opportunity passed with two or three unim- portant skirmishes, and the wanton devastation of the Popovo plain, at which, and the massacre which accom- panied it, Shefket officiated in command of the column. By this act of barbarity five thousand refugees who had, on the guarantee of the Imperial Commissioner at Mostar, gone back to their homes, accepted the protection of the Porte and resumed the tillage of their fields, were driven back in w^ild panic across the Dalmatian frontier, all the men of the villages who fell into the hands of the troops, being either Anarchy, 5 1 killed or taken prisoners to Trebinje, the rest, with the women and children, escaping to Austrian territory, leaving behind them their effects, which were pillaged and carried off by the troop and Bashi-bazooks, who also defiled and ruined all the churches. This characteristic treatment of the first section of the country which had accepted the pacification of course made further attempts to induce the Christians to return, useless. The Turkish army showed the least possible inclination to pacific conduct, and very little to active hostiUties. The whole country was kept in panic by in- dividual cases of barbarity and murder, but no military efficiency helped to an issue. They would accept no peace and could make no war. The Christians who had not joined the revolt were, from the beginning, robbed, beaten, often killed, numerous cases of such murders coming to my knowledge, some by personal invesdgation : the consular Commission finding, at the early date of their journey, dead bodies by the road-side where they travelled, which the troops would not even bury or permit the Christians to bury, and on one occasion when the consuls had made a rendezvous with a body of insurgents, the authorities sent a body of troops to attack the Christians, under circumstances which satisfied the Commission that the intention of the Pasha was to compromise them and provoke the insurgents to attack them, or to catch the latter thrown off their guard by the consular visit, and capture or kill them. Herze- govina was an infernal chaos. Neither Turk nor Christian showed any evidence of organization or control. The Aus- trian committees sent aid in a hmited and irregular way, but the people at large took a faint-hearted part in the wars, and a concession which would have secured simply personal security, and justice before the tribunals, would have left the 52 Popovo. agitators in hopeless isolation. Servia and Montenegro had failed them, and no hope was held out. Diplomacy, if it ever did any good might have been expected to do so here. But it failed, as it always fails, because it finds in humanity only a kind of chessmen, and thinks that it can control them as though there were no flesh and blood — no passion or ambition, but that they must move by order like automata. It regards the fictions of its own creation as realities, and expects a treaty to control those whom not even their own interest will always control, like children who draw a line in the sand, and agree not to pass it, and if a bold one defies the fiction, the game is broken up, and nobody knows what to do next. It is only when the diplomat has the sword girt on, that he has any vital existence for irrational organizations like the Porte. The Popovo affair showed not only a new opportunity lost, but a radical incapacity in the organization of the Ottoman Government to employ an opportunity for retrieving the blunders which its local administrators might make. The return of the people of Popovo was an important event, and one which the Porte felt the full importance of, as was shown by the congratulatory despatches exchanged on the subject. The Turks had only to keep away from the district to secure the full effect of the new adhesion to their promised reforms, but even this they were incapable of. Shef ket Pasha must in some way show the solicitude of the Porte over its returning children, and his military promenade showed that neither reform nor justice was possible. The elements on which his authority and that of his government rested were utterly uncontrollable, and opportunity was irre- sistible — violence was the natural state. What was particularly instructive in this affair was that Popovo. 53 the Popovo villages, though long* time deserted by the majority of their proper inhabitants, had not been pillaged or otherwise molested, with the exception of one which was burned by Ljubibratics after Utovu, as described. The Christian insurgents had passed by them, and left them un- disturbed, and the Bashi-bazooks of Trebinje or Stolatz had never dared come so far without the protection of the regulars. As soon, therefore, as a regular force went, the Bashi-bazooks made their opportunity, and, unchecked by the discipHned forces, or their officers, did what pleased them. And flagrant as waS' the case, and strong as were the reclamations, no notice w^s ever taken of the authors of the outrage, or punishment inflicted on the responsible in- dividuals. Some time after, Shefket was sent away in dis- grace for being defeated, and went to Bulgaria to repeat on a larger scale the experiment of Popovo. The massacre took place October- 14th, and on the strength of my repre- sentations to Mr. Holmes at Mostar, the consul-general of the Porte at Ragusa was ordered to make an inquiry, which he did, and he reported confirming my statements, when his re- port was rejected by the government at Constantinople, and Constant Pasha was ordered to make a new inquiry, which he did in the most convenient manner, and with the most satisfactory results. He paid no attention to the evidence, and reported that the outrage had never occurred. From such seed what could be expected but the harvest of Batok and PhilHpopolis ? A reference to the blue book will show the efficacy of diplomatic interference.^ Shefket is * Sir H. Elliot to the Earl of Derby. My Lord, Therapia, November, 23, 1875. I directed Mr. Sandison to remark to the Porte that, although a con- siderable time had elapsed since the report had been received of the massacre at Popovopolje of a number of the Christian refugees who had 54 Popovo, always equal to the opportunity, and when Constant is not at hand Edib Effendi will do quite as well. The system is,, has been, and will be while it exists, the same; for its foundation is a democracy of ignorance, fanaticism,, sensuality, and brutality. returned to their homes, we had not heard of any one having been punished for the outrage. Mr. Sandison having to-day spoken in this sense to the Grand Vizier, His Highness at oiice telegraphed to the Governor-General of Bosnia to inquire what had been done to insure the punishment of those concerned in the murders. I have, Socica declared that if he must fight alone, the Turks ^ Sir H. Elliot to the Earl of Derby. My Lord, Pera, January 30, 1876. The following account of the system pursued by the Montenegrins in aid of the Herzegovina insurgents has been communicated to me from a person in position to obtain the best information : — All the men (in Montenegro) capable of bearing arms are considered to be soldiers, and are made into battalions of 600 men. The Com- manders and Majors of these battalions, who are called Commanders and Pod-commanders, receive pay ; the remaining officers, non-commis- sioned officers, and men, are unpaid. When an expedition is contem- plated, each man takes with him potatoes and bread, if he has any, for five days, and a reserve of provisions from each village is carried by women or baggage horses. The Austrian committees having provided surgeons and medicines, hospitals and ambulances have been organized in some villages on the frontier. The Prince furnishes all those who join the insurgents without authori- zation, but he sends about a fifth part of his effective forces into the Herzegovina. Not to overtire these poor people, His Highness takes care to change them at the end of each expedition or when their pro- visions are exhausted. Reforms alone, it is stated, will never put an end to the insurrection, and force is of no avail so long as the insurgents and their Montenegrin friends have only to cross the frontier to be in safety. I have, &c., (Signed) Henry Elliot. Panorama of Montenegro, 77^ should not go to Niksics, and a council of the chiefs had refused propositions made by Raouf Pasha to permit him to pass unopposed, and decided to hold out on the Duga coiite qui coute. The battle of Muratovizza was fought about the middle of November ; Goransko was reHeved by the treaty for two months, and the attack on Niksics w^as imminent. I decided to go to Niksics if possible, and watch the result. While in Cettinje I did what I advise all who go there to do, ascend the hills to the south of the village, and study the land; for one may see nearly the whole principality at a glance, with much of Albania, the mountains of the Vasoivichi (children of Vaso) and the intervening Kutchi, and below them, spread out, like an eternal temptation to turn Turk, the ancient Montenegrin possession — the beautiful plain of the Zeta — stretching from Podgoritza all the way to the city of Scutari, though every year, owing to the thriftlessness of the Turk, some part of it is buried under the rising lake. Here Hotti, brother of Vaso, did settle, and kept his land by obedience to the Pashas and embracing Catholicism, which the Turks would tolerate. One could see how well the border Commissions had done their work in putting and carving for the Turk, by throwing all the districts which agriculture would claim out- side the Montenegrin's boundary, and leaving him only what he could always defend. At our right was the canton of Zermnitchka ; to the left, the Katunska, and Garatsch beyond, which overlooks the plain of Danilograd, and on one side protects it ; in front, at our feet, the pretty valley of Dobrotskoselo, with the road winding through it to the valley of the Rieka beyond, and then a glimpse of the Rieka itself, winding through a band of meadow towards the lake. 78 Montenegro, On the edge of the plain, crowning an isolated volcanic- looking hill, was the ancient fortress of Jabliak, looking like the rather formal cup of the crater. This fort, the scene of some of the most daring feats of Montenegrin heroism, is still included in the principality by the map of Kiepert, though the Commission for defining the boundary threw it, like every other point the Turks could hold, on the Turkish side of the frontier. It was easy to see from this point the greater part of what the Montenegrins have fought for these centuries — a poor, rocky waste of limestone, which nothing but the sheer spirit of domination should provoke any one to invade. In no other land I have ever seen is there so little earth for so much rock. In the crevices of the crumbHng grey lime- stone stunted shrubs and trees find root, and among the fragments of the stone, slowly being split up by frost and rain, cling bouquets of wild sage and thyme, with little flowers strange to me, but which the bees know, and here and there, where a little real earth had clung or formed, clumps of a magnificent autumn crocus and scattered cyclamens. There was nothing approaching a forest and nothing resem- bling a plain in the whole district north of Dodosh, the frontier village under the guns of Jabliak. Down in the valley of Dobrotskoselo, at our feet, one could see how systematically the Montenegrin works for his little land : every band of earth a few feet wide being held up by a stone terrace, and the fields were really only long strips of land circling round and round to the very centre of the valley, and even there is no plain, but still terraces and terraces continually. This is one of the gardens of the principality ; but there is not land enough for the amount of stone to induce an Isle of Wight gardener to pay 6^. an acre rent for Montenegrin and Turk. 79 it, if he had to do the work on it which here has been done by past generations. Down by Rieka village is, as I have said, a strip of meadow land ; but, as the Turks will not drain the Scutari plain, it is being flooded with every rainy spell, and fevers depopulate the villages along it, as well as those along the lake itself, which are half the year in a swamp. This, again, is still being converted into lake, so that the boatman can see on a still day, as he floats along the surface, the villages of past generations, roads and bridges, beneath him ; and along the shore are still ruins of other villages abandoned and waiting for the rising flood to bury them— after the fever the flood. And the lazy Turk, festering there in Scutari, with the water rising twice a year to his windows, has no conception that Government has duties as well as privileges, or even that his revenues would be greater by wise administration ; but lets the fever eat up the people and the floods devour the land till popula- tion and desolation curse the earth for his sake. If any rational man doubts who should govern this fair scene — fair in spite of its barrenness on one side and its neglect on the other — I ask him to stand on that summit of Dobrshnja with me and see what the Montenegrin and the Turk are doing under his eyes. Away across the plain, beyond the Zeta, rise the moun- tains of the Kutchi, as I have said, and there with a glass one may see'Medun. From the plain rises a table land, the road up to it winding through a ravine, an ascent, perhaps, of 200 feet, and then an easy sloping pasture land, with here and there a house visible among the trees, and at the upper side, on a crag overlooking a torrent on the edge of the table land, stands Medun, looking like a crystallization of the rock it is built on. Reading of the battles which have 8o Medun, made the locality famous even in Montenegrin annals one imagines awful ravines like the Duga, or gorges like Klek^ but there was nothing here which in the distance one could consider as a formidable position — a gently sloping valley across the table land, easy heights on both sides, until it reaches Medun, where one side is sunk in the ravine over which the town looks. CHAPTER VII. ?ITH all Prince Nikita's devotion to road-making, to which he seems as much inclined as his pre- decessor was to military organization, it seems hardly possible that in his own day Montenegro will be a comitry lit for carriages, and they who would see some of the wildest and most picturesque parts of Europe must be good mountaineers, for even on horseback some of these roads are scarcely passable. The road from Cettinje to Rieka, though a tolerable zigzag and paved after a fashion, is in some parts so precipitous that 'the guide invites you, in your own interest, to dismount in going down, as a false step on the part of your pony would certainly send you over his head. The descent is so rapid that within an hour from Cettinje we enter the valley of Dobrotskoselo, where figs are abundant, the vine is luxuriant, the vegetation still green, and wild flowers in blossom, long after everything in the plain about Cettinje is dead and bare.' Everywhere are the same steep, rocky slopes which we found on entering the principality, and after a continuous descent for three hours we arrive at the head of the valley of Rieka proper, and see a view worth the trip. The river Rieka, after the habit of Montenegrin rivers, bursts out of the mountain already a respectable stream, and winds through a 82 Rieka, narrow plain away into the distance, where spreads the Lake of Scutari, mountain-surrounded, with the snowy peaks of the main Albanian range in the central distance. Those who visit Cettinje without the idea of penetrating further into the country should at least devote one day to Rieka, if they can get a fine one. The views are unique, and the river itself, a fountain gushing from the heart of the mountain, and its rapid course down to the winding valley beyond, with the peculiar and intense green of the waters, makes the site one to be remembered. Rieka itself, a semi-commercial village, built along the quay, at the head of boat communication with the lake, is not especially inviting. The Prince had kindly offered me his little house to pass the night in, and as we left Cettinje after midday we entered the village only towards sunset, and, taking possession of our quarters, had a blazing fire lighted to drive out the damp. The balcony of the house overhangs the river and the curious old arched bridge, and while I sat waiting for supper and watching the sunset effect, there came a burst of merry laughter from the hill across the stream, where, with the church and its belongings, stands the school-house. School was out, and down the zigzag leading to the bridge came the liberated youngsters, sturdy, full-voiced, as rollicking a troop as ever poured out on an English village green, each one as he passed me lifting his cap with a sudden hush of awe at the foreign face and dress on the balcony. It was a finishing incident to the picture, without which justice would hardly have been done to the ensemble, for wherever I have been so far the school-house is almost a perpetual presence. The morning came with a drenching rain, but a break of blue sky in the south deluded me with the hope of its Montenegi'in Travellmg, 83 clearing away, and we started about nine for Danilograd, my train consisting of a Montenegrin medical student as guide and interpreter ; a servant who could speak a little Italian ; one of the Prince's body-guard, delegated with enough of his authority to answer my needs, and the usual horseboys. I take the occasion to caution all travellers in this country not to make much count of Montenegrin estimates of time, for as a rule the stranger will find any journey longer by half than the time they assign to it, and so we, starting on a journey which we supposed was an easy day's ride, at nine in the morning, came in for an experience I hope never to repeat. From Rieka the road rises rapidly, still following the river, which here is like a miniature Bosphorus, only more winding, and utterly wild. The way for hours after leaving the river is as monotonous as a hilly country can be : grey rocky ridges bristHng with scrubby oaks, without a village for miles, and when at one o'clock we reached a kind of khan half-way on the journey, I decided to stop and rest, having a natural hope that the remainder of the trip would occupy no longer time. Our train was increased en route by a deaf- mute porter with a huge basket containing provisions and luxuries not to be hoped for from the resources of the country — tea and a samovar, white bread, and canned eat- ables, a kind afterthought of the Prince. The rain continued to pour, and after warming ourselves as best we could round the smoky fire built in the middle of the floor, as is Monte- negrin usage, we resumed our march. The road grew more rocky, with intervals of mud, but late in the afternoon, as we came up on the ridge at Koumani before beginning the descent into the valley of the Suchitza, the clouds lifted by a fortunate coincidence to show one of the loveliest valley 84 Montenegrin Travelling, landscapes I ever saw. The wide and fertile plain at our feet, with the mountains of Piperi beyond, and beyonci them again the deep blue Berdas, whose summits still kept the clouds, was cut by two rivers, the Suchitza and the Zeta^ which, united, flow into the Lake of Scutari, and which were then in flood, so that the plain was a succession of Uttle lakes. In the south, where the plain belongs to Turkey, are the towns of Spush and Podgoritza, and here the setting sun, through an opening in the clouds, poured a great band of golden light across the plain, illuminating Podgoritza and the spurs of the mountains of the Kutchi beyond, with the flat lands to the east of the lake. To the north lay the plains of Bjelopawlitzje, the garden of Montenegro, and in the extreme distance, still cloud-capped, the mountains about Ostrog and Niksics. The view included the whole breadth of the principality from north to south. The promise of fine weather was treacherous. The road lay down a long, rocky slope, zigzag and difficult for the horses, and the rain recommenced, so that we alternately floundered through soft mud and struggled over sharp rocks- — the pedestrians far outstripping the quadrupeds, and between them came our unfortunate carrier. We had con- tinually to wait for the horses to overtake us, and I could easily conjecture the pace of a Turkish army, and how hopeless would be a movement, when our guard could,, without effort, make two miles to our actual one, while we moved without any encumbrance save our horses. We reached the plain and crossed the Suchitza by late twilight. The rain grew heavier and changed to a thunderstorm. The soil was a heavy clay, in which the animals were in great difficulty, but the pedestrians in greater, for their sandals- stuck in the mud. The poor carrier, almost unable to hold Danilograd. * 85 oip under his load, moaned and cried like a child in the in- articulate manner of his kind, and we had often to wait to -extricate and assist him. We had two hours' nominal travel after crossing the river, and these two we prolonged to more than double. The dense rain-clouds made the darkness at times so profound that I could scarcely see my hand before my face, and it was possible to recognize the road only by the rare poplars at the roadside and the telegraph poles which now and then showed against the sky. Brooks had become torrents, and flat land one slough, in which at length our carrier quite broke down, when, fortunately, we • discovered a light shining through the crevices of a roadside cottage, where we deposited him with his load, and, mount- ing our guardsman on the horse of the domestic, we com- mitted the impedimenta of all kinds to the scanty shelter of the hovel and pushed on, we three, for Danilograd. By this we were drenched, weary, and, but for the quicker sense of our horses, lost. Night had become utter darkness, .and the rain, unmitigated, deluged everything, the road itself becoming, if possible, still more obscure by passing through tracts of forest, and there was nothing for it but to trust to our guard's general knowledge of the country and the horses' instinct of the way, give them the bridle, and commit ourselves to Providence. It was only when flashes of lightning lighted up the path that we knew we were on it, and I have no knowledge of how the time passed, for it seemed hours while we were making the last two or three miles of the way. Our horses carried us into Danilograd, however, before all the village had extinguished its lights, and the only functionary we could arouse committed us to the hospitality of a more prosperous neighbour, who gave us a cordial welcome, a supper of trout from the Zeta, and a 86 Danilograa, bed on the floor, where I passed a night even more miser- able than the day. Danilograd is a new village, reminding one of the new towns in Western America, with a large ground plan and a very slight filling-up, and will, no doubt, one of these days, be the central and most important city of Montenegro. A fine carriage-road is in construction from Cattaro, branch- ing from the Cettinje road at Njegush, and a good bridge crosses the Zeta, the road passing over which branches: south to Spush and north to Ostrog. The valley is fertile^ and seems to favour the vine and maize, while figs are abundant, and fields of a most luxuriant tobacco were still fresh and in bloom. The village is the seat of an agricul- tural school, the first of its kind in Slavonia. The whole valley of the Zeta is charming, and affords fine trout fishing,, like all the streams which empty into the lake of Scutari. The fish here run as high as 40 lbs., while in the lake they have been caught as heavy as 60 lbs. The way to Ostrog follows the river nearly to its source, which, like the Rieka^ is an immense fountain. There are no brooks by the road- side, but huge water-sources here and there gushing out of the apparendy solid rock, the issue of the katavothra, through which the waters of the table lands above disappear. The valley narrows until it ends in a vast, irregular semi- circle of mountains, high up on one of which, like a mud swallow's-nest, in a cavity of the perpendicular cliff, is the Sanctuary of Ostrog, the upper convent, it is generally called ; but it is now only a hermitage and sacred place,, tenanted by an old priest, whose duty it is to watch the body of St. Basil, which lies here in a sarcophagus of carved wood, and to administer the rites to the crowds of the faith- ful who climb up here on the great fetes, especially that of Ostrog, 8 7 the Virgin. The actual convent is about two-thirds of the way up to the shrine, and is a most comfortable and hospi- table retreat. It cost us an hour and a half s hard climbing to get to it by the muddy road, and the sun had already set when we entered the gates. Monks are famous for the admirable selection of their convent sites, and Ostrog is one of the best chosen I have visited. It looks down on the valley from an elevation of about 2,000 feet, and is open only to the west wind. The land about it is the richest mountain land I have seen in Montenegro, the rock being a very rotten slate, and broken into a succession of plateaux, which form so many little pas- ture lands or arable fields. Above the convent all is forest of oak or chestnut until we reach the foot of the limestone cliif in which is the sanctuary. For picturesque variety of rock and tree, mountain and valley, for the abundance of material such as a painter would delight in — rock of massive, grandiose form, and trees quaint and weather-tormented, the hill-side about Ostrog surpasses anything I know. The lower convent is now of more importance in a political point of view than a religious, for there are only two monks, both of whom are of an order more militant than devotional, and Ostrog is the frontier fortress, and the terminus of the tele- graph, by which comes all the intelligence from the region beyond the Tara, the district between Plevlie and Novi- Bazaar. It is four hours from here to Niksics. Upper Ostrog was the scene of one of the most heroic defences of Montenegrin history. Here, in 1853, Mirko, father of the present Prince, with thirty-two of his voivodes and chiefs, was driven and besieged for nineteen days by a large Turkish army. The hermitage was then a fortress as well, when need was, and contained supplies of arms, ^ or THE '^^^ UNIVERSITY .OF 88 Ostrog. provisions, and ammunition, in addition to which Mirko employed all his men during the time that the Turkish army was closing in on them, in carrying huge stones up to the gallery. The only way to get at the Montenegrins was by direct assault on a narrow staircase cut in the solid rock. Those who attempted the entrance were either crushed in the mass by the stones thrown from above, or shot through the loopholes or from the head of the staircase. One of the defenders was killed early in the siege, and finding it necessary to dispose of the body, they let it out of the win- dow by cords, and to prevent the Turks from mutilating it, they let down one of the chiefs to bury it. The assailants discovering him before he could be drawn back, he ran for it, made his way through the besieging army, and carried the news to Danilo, who raised an army and relieved his general and his comrades. Two of the little garrison were killed, and 750 Turks, partly in a battle between two detachments, each of which in the darkness mistook the other for a body of Montenegrins. This was regarded as the effect of the intervention of St. Basil, and of course the whole defence was largely attributed to the favour of the saint. This shrine enjoys an extensive reputation as a miraculous agent. At the gxtdXfesta of the Virgin, thousands came here from all parts of the Balkan. The cures reported are of Turks as well as believers, and the reverence of the saint by the Mus- sulmans of Herzegovina and Albania is almost, if not quite, as profound as that of the Christians. We were allowed to see the body in its wrappings, and one hand was uncovered as a special favour. I hoped to have penetrated to Niksics from here, but the Superior told me that it was to the last degree unsafe, as the plain about the town was infested by bands of Mussulmans To Albania. 89 in great want of everything a stranger would be likely to have with him, and who pay no respect to any authority, or any distinction, except that of greater military strength. I was obliged to renounce entirely any movement beyond here, not only for the reason above given, but from a heavy snowfall, which made the mountain roads utterly imprac- ticable. The day of our ride to Ostrog was the one fair-day oasis of our journey. All the time we remained there the rain fell in the valley, and the snow on the high mountains, until, in sheer despair, we started to return, still in drench- ing rain, which accompanied us to Danilograd, whence I intended to make the detour round by the lake to Scutari. The sirdar in command at Danilograd assured me, as the Prince had before leaving Cettinje, that it would not be possible for Montenegrins to accompany me through Albania, as the journey would probably be ended for them by decapitation, and really I found that no Montenegrin w^ould consent to accompany me only as far as Podgoritza, as even if my presence protected him while going, he had slender chance of returning, alone. Nor would they even let me horses to go with. My interpreter, a venturesome young fellow, decided to go on, and run the risk; and, if possible, see Scutari before dying. To shorten the journey I telegraphed to Cettinje to ask the Prince to send me his little steam-launch to the lake shore, then found a Rayah of Podgoritza, who had come to market at Danilograd, and rigging substitutes for saddles, with the Rayah himself as guide, and, changing Gosdanovics' Montenegrin cap for a felt hat, and putting him under charge to diminish his knowledge of Serb to the minimum of our needs, to notice nothing, and only reply when there was absolute necessity, I set out for Spush 90 Albania^ Spush. (pronounced Spuss), the frontier Turkish town on the south. The road changed from mud and overflowed meadows to an ancient causeway, so worn and dilapidated that the horses preferred the worst side-path to keeping on the stones. There had been no repairs made on it since it was made, I conjecture, and there were actually portions where the ridge of pavement rose, like a lean hog's back, to an isolated elevation of several feet above the more trodden paths on each side. At the entrance of the town we were stopped by the guard, curious to know what was our business, where we came from, &c. There was no gate, only a guard-house by the wayside, an exaggerated sentry-box, under cover of which the sentinel stood and made merry over our ridiculous plight, as we sat on our muddy horses, ourselves splashed and dripping, the rain pouring down all the time in torrents. We must wait there until the slow-going messenger could walk to the other end of the town, where the chief of the Zapties held his court, and ask what was to be done with us. One of the guard did me the honour to ask about passports, and looked at mine much as a magpie might look at a piece of bright metal, turned it over and returned it to me with an uncomprehending " Peki," and then we waited in silence. Presently, the messenger returned, saying that we were to go to the Zaptieh. Here we found the usual Turk — a Binbashi, but as grave and polite as a Pasha; the same courteous and impassible person a Turk always is when he is not '' put out "—sympathetic and interesting. Quite the contrary were two secretaries, Mussulmans of the country, whose frank and unabated malignity did not wait for words, but glared out at their eyes in a manner not at all unfamiliar. I took my seat on the divan, made my salaam, and replied Spusk, 91 by dumb show to the questions of which I could gather the import from the circumstances, and keeping the interdict on the tongue of my companion, gave the Binbashi to under- stand that I was from England and going to Podgoritza, and thence to Scutari. We tried English, French, and Italian • in vain, and then he bethought himself of sending for the Doctor, an Italian, when a bright-looking Lieutenant stand- ing by bethought himself of Romaic, which was an immense relief, though he understood very little of it, as it enabled me to say that I was from London, the correspondent of an English journal, and that my companion was my gram- maticos; that I had come from Ragusa, as the Turkish visa on. my passport obtained there showed, only it was in French, and none of them could read anything of it but the seal, if they could that ; but the Romaic did not allow of our going into the philosophy of travel far enough to make any of them understand why I had come to that out-of-the way place at such a time and in such weather, and, above all, from Montenegro. However, it enabled me to expatiate on the old friendship of England for the Porte, and mollified matters considerably. Then the Doctor came, and we were enabled to appease the suspicions of my trustworthiness by explaining the nature of newspaper correspondence and the interest England took in the state of the country, and gratified everybody with my opinion that diplomacy would soon interfere and stop the fighting ; for here, as elsewhere, I found the Mussulmans weary of the war, whether the ordinary population or the military classes. Meanwhile, and while the Romaic was going on, my Montenegrin was mute, and understood nothing of the prin- cipal performance, but heard the by-play of the Serb Mussulmans. *'Bah," said one of the secretaries to the 92 Podgoritza, other, "I could, with a stick, kill twenty such men as these, and would do it too, if I dared ; such rubbish as they are ! I would like to send them all to the devil." The other . rephed that he would like nothing better than just such fun ; and then he added that I was certainly a stranger, but he was sure that he had seen my companion somewhere, and he had very grave suspicions of him that he was a Montenegrin, especially as I had explained that I came via Cettinje. ^' No," said the other, *^ that is not likely; no Montenegrin dares come here now." The real cause of my arrest and the annoyance I was put to was simply my having come from Montenegro. Yet in June, 1876, the Grand Vizier denied that any hindrance had existed.^ When the Doctor came we launched into general politics, drank another cup of coffee each, smoked another cigarette, and begged to be allowed to retire with the visa of the Bin- bashi, which being graciously accorded, we remounted our steeds and filed through the streets to the bridge, and so across and on our way to Podgoritza along the Zeta. The river here runs through a deep channel cut through massive conglomerate and a little lower down unites with the Moratscha, famous for its trout, the best of the country. Podgoritza, a straggling dilapidated town, much given to ruin, is approached by curious circuitous ways, with excellent defences as against old methods- of assault, but with walls ' "I will finally say, my Prince, that our authorities have never had the intention of preventing the communications of the principality with the outside world. The proof of this is that they continue uninterrupted, and that the Montenegrins go freely, and without being in any way molested, to Spouze, to Podgoritza, and to Scutari. From what pre- cedes your Highness will see that the Sublime Porte has not adopted any measure which can pre-occupy or disquiet Montenegro." — Grand Vizier to Nikita, June 2^, 1876, Blue Book. A Ttirkish Priso7i, 93: crumbling and dilapidated. I had to show my passport again in crossing the bridge over the Moratscha, and on entering the town naturally went to the best and only clean khan, one kept by an Orthodox Christian. We had to sleep in Podgoritza, and start early next morning for Plamnitza, on the shore of the lake, where the Prince of Montenegro- had, in coraphance with my request, ordered the Kttle steamer from Rieka to meet us and convey us to Scutari. We were wet, cold, and fasting, and it was the middle of the afternoon ; but we waited in vain for either fire or food for half an hour, when our Podgoritzan guide returned and informed us that we could not stay at that khan, that there- was no room (it seemed to me quite empty, and we had been told on arriving that we could stay), but that the Miralai had appointed a place for us. G., who travelled under a Russian passport, passed as a Muscovite, and was stated to be such by the Podgoritzan, and this allowed a little know- ledge of Serb, which now became indispensable. We passed through the greater part of the town to a small, decayed, and dirty khan, the head-quarters of the chief of police, who, with many compliments, assured us that he was so anxious that we should be comfortable, that he had assigned us quarters, next his own (in the police office), and, inviting us to sk down round his mangal and dry ourselves over his charcoal fire, gave orders to clean out the room adjoining — a kind' of closet, about 14ft. by loft., on the floor of which the dust of months lay undisturbed. While the attendant obeyed his orders, we were put through another inquisition in his room, while he gave orders in Serb for our dinner and treatment, to the keeper of the khan in such a way that, while he seemed to be paying compliments he was really consigning us to imprisonment. He had two or three 94 A Turkish Prison. persons in his suite who spoke Itahan, and so I was able to explain fully all that I cared to explain of my business and intentions. He took my passport and sent it to the Com- mandant de Place, who returned it as all right ; but they were not at all sure about my intentions in going to Scutari. G., who now and then spoke a few words of very bad Serb, was able to hear again all the by-talk and the orders given to telegraph to Scutari as to the disposal of us, and for putting a guard at the door of the khan to prevent any one coming to see us. My boots had given out, and I asked to have some sent in to try. The order was given by them with great ostentation, but when they came there was only one pair, and those not large enough for a boy of fourteen ; there were no others, I was assured. I took it all in good part, and humoured the fraud as if I saw nothing. We had to answer for every step of our journey, and the connection of our movements with Cettinje was what none of them could understand. They did not believe that the Montenegrin steamer was coming for us, and it was finally settled that we were to go to Plamnitza, with a guide, as we were informed, but, as we learnt from the by-talk, under the custody of a guard, which was to keep us in sight, proceed to extremes if we attempted to escape from them^ and if the steamer was not there, to bring us back to the same quarters immediately. I was courteously invited, therefore, to return to Podgoritza in case I did not find the steamer there, as it would be unsafe to cross the lake in a boat, and was assured that I might count confidently on the attention and protection of the Zaptieh. We were then shown our room, on the floor of which was spread a fragment of old carpet, with a dirty blanket for mattress and another for covering, a mangal filled with I A Turkish Prison, 95 lighted charcoal was brought in, and the supper followed-^ a boiled fowl, with the water in which it was boiled thickened with vermicelli, wine, and brown bread — and we were left alone. The servant came in again and cleared away our supper when we had finished. The prison routine was finished all but locking up, yet we had not been ten minutes by ourselves, when one of the Christians of the town (a Catholic, moreover) came in, and in a stealthy visit managed to tell me in Italian how miserable the Christian population was, how blind {cieco was his word), and how hopeless. We went to our blankets, having nothing else to do, and before I had a chance to sleep I heard the bolts of our outside door shot, and realized that we were really imprisoned for the night ; but as the horses had been ordered for the early dawn, I gave myself no anxiety. Naturally I slept little, however, and all night it seemed to me that Podgoritza was peopled by cocks, who continually insisted on making believe that it was daybreak. We got off next morning without further molestation, and had a weary ride of four hours through the rain, which still poured pitilessly; and my anxiety lest the steamer should not have come, or having come should have gone again, and we so be compelled to make all those weary miles of mud and rain again, back to Danilograd and Rieka, or wait a few days under guard in Podgoritza, can easily be imagined, and that it was not decreased by G. understanding the dialogue of our two Mus- sulman-Serb Zapties, which ran on the degradation of having to make such a journey, in pelting rain, for a couple of Ghiaours, whose heads they would have been much better pleased at cutting off than protecting. The cutting off our heads was, in fact, the burden of their conversation. We found the engineer of the steamer waiting for us in 96 Scutari, the village, and, after an hour's canoeing out towards the open water, discovered the steamer tied to a branch of a tree whose tops alone showed above the water. Instead, however, of taking us to Scutari, she was obliged to go back for fuel to Rieka, where we passed the night, and started afresh, this time in company with the French Consul at Scutari, to whose presence I was indebted for being able to land that night, as we were overhauled by a boat from the man-of war oft' the city, which, finding the Consul on board, landed us all without further question, though the rule of the port forbade our steamer going up to the landing after the sunset hour. The landing, indeed, was far up in the streets,. for all the lower part of the town was underwater, and it was late in the evening when we found a room in the dirtiest khan I have ever been in, but the proprietor of which, an Albanian, made amends for the meagreness of our supper and the very indifterent character of his beds by cordiality and an eftbrt to do his best. So much for the itinerary of a journey which it would be difticult to induce me to repeat under the same difficulties^ and conditions, and of the latter part of which I only retaia a general impression, the state of the weather, and the sus- piciousness of the authorities, preventing me from learning much of the country or anything of the disposition of the people. The former is to a large extent under water, and the latter, so far as I could judge from demeanour and ex- ternals, would be better under ground. Montenegro showed much poverty, but the transition to Turkish territory pro- duced a painful impression of squalor and wretchedness — listlessness in the people, obsequiousness, and want of that self-confidence so marked in the Montenegrin. The thought constantly recurred to me that the love of life must be very Eshref Pasha, 97 strong in these people to make them content to live such an existence. I saw fields of magnificent tobacco standing with the leaves rotting and stems crushed down, cattle grazing through them, the fertile lands all round the lake of Scutari from one to ten feet under water, roads all in an extreme state of dilapidation, and even the fortresses crumb- ling. Everything was toned by decay. I called the second day after arriving on the Governor of Scutari, Eshref Pasha, a most amiable and interesting man, and, rara avis among Turkish Pashas, a man of letters and a poet, the second in rank in Turkey, I was told. He laughingly asked me, after salutations, if I had been at Podgoritza, which gave me the opportunity to say that I had not come to complain of that affair, but to pay my respects to a fellow litterateur. His broad, good-humoured face and keen black eyes lighted up with a natural pleasure, and he asked how I had learnt that he was of the craft, w^hich paved the way for more pleasant words ; and, for an exception in my official visits, w^e did not talk politics or military matters. Secretaries and messengers were con- tinually running in and out with papers to sign and orders to be made out. Conversation on poetry filled up the inter- spaces, and I remarked that he must have very little time for literary pursuits with all the official pressure on his time and energies. " Yes," he said, " poetry is my refuge in the night, when I am unable to sleep — I have no other time." I hoped that I might have the pleasure some day of seeing some example of his muse in an English dress, but he said, what we all know, that translation is mostly destructive to poetry. I begged him to favour me with a copy of a poem, and said I would do my best to get it properly translated, adding that London was rich in men of condition equal even to H 98 Eshref Pasha, translating poetry, and that if something of the poem must be inevitably lost, at least the substance of the thought would remain. He finally read me very pleasantly a short poem in Turkish, of which I understood not a word, but the movement of which was certainly full of dignity and possessed a marked and characteristic melody, and promised to send a copy to my address next morning, but his official character was fatal to any promise, and the poem was like Turkish reforms, it never came. The Pasha is evidently one of those misplaced links in an unequal chain whose strength is no greater than its weakest part. As we did not talk of politics, and I had no desire to know the Turkish version of all the news, I was not able to judge of his political capacity. He seemed a well-meaning man, sympathetic, and capable, under a good system, of doing routine work in Government ma- chinery. There may be many such under the surface of Turkish disorganization, buried out of sight and hope in the mass of fanaticism and ignorant pride. Scutari was in an extensively flooded condition, and the question of the day was not of the barometer or exchange, but of the increase of the water in the market-place. " It rose four fingers' breadth yesterday," I heard one merchant remark to another. I saw a man fishing in a roadside ditch, who had a fine basket of carp to show as his take. And all because the Drin has filled up its old way to the sea, from the bar never having been dredged out, and sets back into the Lake of Scutari and through the Boyana to the sea. It may be worth while to add, before leaving Eshref Pasha, that when, some months later, the new Irade was issued and ordered to be published in the provinces, he Eshref Pasha, 99 took it in good faith, and immediately put it into practice by calling on the people to make their elections and state the needs of their community. They replied at once by indicating the reopening of the Drin, so as to drain the Lake of Scutari, making of better roads, and construction of a railway from Scutari to Antivari. Perhaps the contem- plation of these actual consequences of the rash belief of a Governor in the seriousness of the Irade led to Eshref s removal. The Porte is not accustomed to being taken at its word, and there is no knowing what might happen if the poet had many imitators in his serious way of looking at things. Eshref was replaced by Hamdi, our old Bosniak func- tionary, dismissed for doing nothing in Herzegovina. CHAPTER VIII. ?AOUF PASHA occupied the whole of the latter half of November and nearly all December get- ting his expedition to Niksics organized, and then attacked the Duga with forces reported at 12,000 to 16,000 men. The army was divided into two divisions, of which one was to fight its way through, and when in possession of the passes, the other, escorting the provisions, was to follow. Raouf, commanding the former, made his attack, and was met by Socica, who stopped him at Krstaz. Raouf took strong defensive positions and waited two days, when Socica's men, receiving neither aid nor provisions from Peko, who commanded the main body of the insurgents, and on some frivolous pretext held aloof from the fighting, were obliged to evacuate the position they held, and Raouf went through without further opposition. Peko took his revenge by an attack on the cattle of the Turkish army at Plana, in the rear of the two armies, and carried off an immense booty ; but his defection from Socica at the critical moment pro- duced an alienation between the two chiefs which lasted for months, and was only healed finally by Socica's being assured that Peko had only obeyed secret orders in not attacking the. Turks, it being considered in certain official quarters that it was inexpedient to bring matters to an issue RiLssian Ap-ents, i o i -"^> between the Porte and Montenegro ; but Socica was not docile in these matters, and would not have accepted such orders even directly from the Prince of Montenegro, while these came from Russian authorities, for whom Peko had unlimited reverence, and Socica at that time very little. This was the first indication I had been able to get of any direct intervention of Russian officials in the affair. This, moreover, was certainly not hostile to the Turks, and could scarcely be considered anything more than pacific interven- tion, but it marked a change in the direction of affairs. It coincided, moreover, with the sending of the important Rus- sian and Swiss Red Cross expeditions to Cettinje, and the in- creased recognition of the insurrection by the public opinion of Russia. Large subscriptions were being made for the insurrection, and the agents of the Slavonic committees ap- peared in greater activity than we had dreamed of before. I am of opinion that it was at this time that the Russian influence became dominant over the others, and from that day this influence increased. It was not, however, an official direction, which was not apparent until about the date of the presentation of the Andrassy note. At the time of which I am now writing, the agents of the committees were far from being agreed with the official agents, and I became on several occasions witness of the hostility between the two, and of the former I must say that they were for the most part full of an enthusiasm which did its work with the insurgents. The public opinion in Russia was, however, be- ginning to produce its effect on the officials, the farthest from the throne being soonest swept away by it; but the movement once begun, it was impossible that the officials should not be influenced in their conduct by it, and, as we see, it finally involved the throne itself. Jonine, who was the 102 Muktar Pasha. immediate agent in any properly diplomatic dealings, was less in favour at the camp of the insurgents than the agents who were with them, fought with them, and shared their rations with them, and between Jonine and certain of these there was implacable feud. They are probably, more than any other cause, responsible for the obstinacy of the insurgents in the interval just previous to the Andrassy propositions being made. Men don't require much encouragement to go the way of their inclinations, and it was inevitable that the official agents should in time overbid the unofficial, or lose control. Early in January, 1876, winter suddenly set in with great rigour at Ragusa, and on the sea-coast the weather was the coldest remembered by any living person. The sufferings of the insurgents were grave, but those of the Turkish troops frightful. In the high country about Gatschko snow impeded all movements, and many soldiers were found frozen to death. I saw at Ragusa deserters from the army of Shefket Pasha, who described their condition as so bad that the bulk of the army would have deserted if they knew that they could get to Austria and not be remanded to their standards. Operations were entirely paralyzed. Towards the end of January the winter began to moderate, and the bands prepared to take the field again, while Raouf Pasha was recalled and replaced by Achmet Muktar, for the reason, it was said, that Raouf not only told the Porte that its army was not in condition to attack Montenegro, but even that the insurgents were to a great extent justified by the misgovernment which they had suffered under, in rising in revolt. He was sent to Crete in more or less disgrace. Muktar came, breathing fire and the sword, menacing the population with all the horrors Bulgaria has since expe- rienced. He made a military promenade through Herze- Radovan- Zdrielo. 103 govina, saw nothing, and went back for the remainder of the winter to Mostar. The time had come, however, when the Montenegrin Government, acting under the menace of the Turks to take the principality in hand when they finished the insurrection, and encouraged (or excited) by the Russian committees and volunteers, and probably by officials as well, felt emboldened to allow a more efficient aid to the movement, and the remnant of the original Montenegrin corps, reduced by death and wounds to about 150, was recalled and replaced by several hundred new men ; and the Prince, by his attitude towards the insurgents, showed that he was disposed to yield to the popular feeling, by taking more or less the control of the affair into his hands — at least, advising it in its policy and diplomacy ; and Vukotics, the oldest Montenegrin captain, took the direction of its affairs. The bands were advised to leave the Montenegrin frontier, and descended, to the number of about 1,500 men, to the Trebinje plain, under the command of Peko. He established himself at the old camp of Grebci, driving out Ljubibratics and his entourage; and on the Greek New Year's Day (12 th January), I met him with two or three others of the chiefs at the midnight supper at the house of Monte verde, in Ragusa, his only visit to the city during the whole insurrection, and the only one of either of the proper chiefs of the Mountain, except Milecevics, whom I met •several times. Socica remained at Piva. Peko disposed his force on the road between Trebinje and Ragusa, and a provision expedition coming from the latter place was, on January 17th, compelled to turn back to pre- vent capture. The next day, the Turks — five battalions, with 400 indigenes and six guns, as I learned from the Aus- trian military authorities — marched out from Trebinje, and 1 04 Radovan-Zdrielo . leaving their guns, for greater security, with a detachment on the Trebinje side of Duzi, the rest came as far as the positions indicated to be occupied for the protection of the provision train to come through next day; and having posted two companies, believed to be a total of 180 men, and constructed breastworks for them, set out on their return to the city. It had been the intention of Peko to allow the troops perfect liberty of movement until the provi- sion train came out from Ragusa; but seeing this fortifica- tion of the positions taken, he concluded at once that the thing must be stopped, and marched with the men at hand to the position from which the battle is named — Radovan- Zdrielo — an inconsiderable hill about midway between the fortress of Drien, near the Austrian frontier, and that of Duzi; somewhat less than half the distance between Ragusa and Trebinje from the latter place. Here he gave the signal for the attack, which began with about 250 men, increasing, as the other bands came up, to about 800. But at the first shots fired, the troops began a precipitate retreat, and, firing a few shots behind them, fled in utter disorder back towards Trebinje, the insurgents pursuing and cutting them down. The pursuit continued until the fortress of Duzi was reached, when the flying column communicated the panic to the reserve, and the fight continued to the city, the pursuit stopping at Duzi. The number of Turkish dead left on the road, according to the tale of the noses brought to Peko, was 250. Peko now turned his attention to the force posted to hold the road, and, finding the defences too strong for direct assault, he placed a strong cordon around it, and waited until the next day. Tripko Vukalovics was sent down the road with his men, to watch any movement from Trebinje, Radovan- Zdr tela. i o$ and another party towards Drien. With the exception of a slight fusillade nothing was done the next day. When the news came in to Ragusa, Colonel Monteverde (correspondent of the " Russki Mir," and agent for the Sla- vonic committees of St. Petersburg), and myself decided at once to go out to the battlefield, and, if possible, witness the expected sortie from Trebinje; but delay in starting and then in finding horses at Ombla kept us until it was too late to reach the camp before dark, and we therefore prepared for an early start next morning. We left at early light ; and after a seven hours' walk over the hardest ground I have ever seen, even in that hard country, we began to hear, far off, the muttering of musketry. On reaching Vukovics, the general head-quarters, we found an ambulance, which owed its existence to the "Russki Mir" and its correspondent, and the preliminary attention being given to some wounded by a young Russian medical student, who, when his dress- ings were done, took his rifle and accompanied us to Peko's temporary quarters near the beleaguered positions. The scouts who joined us on the way reported that a column had just debouched by the Popovo-polje, coming from Stolatz to Trebinje, which would arrive at the latter place about 2 p.m., making it certain that no movement in reHef would be made that day. We arrived about half-past two at the abandoned village — hamlet rather, for there are not above ten houses in it — which was the quarters of Peko and as many of the insurgents as could sleep there. Here we halted a few minutes to depose all superfluous loading and make inquiries. The fusillade echoed through the moun- tains with an unintermitting roar, and the cries of the chiefs of the insurgents exciting their men could be heard above the sound of the musketry. •io6 Radovan- Zdrielo. I think I was never so utterly fatigued in my life ; but the hope of seeing the position of atTairs, and getting horses in time to get back that night, drove us on, without stopping to rest, over the mountain which shelters the village from the Trebinje road, from the further slopes of which we could ^ee what was going on. As we cHmbed the slope, a nearly spent rifle-ball sang over our heads and down into the valley beyond the village, indicating tolerably our distance, and that we were in the line of somebody's fire. We hurried on beyond the ridge, and came in sight of the beleaguered hill. It was the first of a series of conical undulations which cul- minate, in the direction of Ragusa, at Drien, not above ICO feet high, with two peaks, between which ran the Tre- binje road. The wind, which was very light, blew from us, and we could see every flash of the rifles on our side of the slope and on the ridge. The mass of the insurgents were on the side furthest from us, and theirs were the balls which, passing over the hill, reached as far as where we were. The summit was encircled with a line of smoke ; and when we first came in view, the downward flashes extended down the side seen in profile, the upward jets of smoke not being so plainly distinguished. It was clear that there were no insur- gents to speak of on our side of the hill itself, but that on -the further side and on the slopes seen in profile the upward fire was climbing. The fire of the garrison was incessant ; but as both parties were fighting from cover, we could not distinguish individuals, nor amid the grey rocks which cover the hill distinguish the men from the rocks. We could see the tents on the summit, however; and while we were watching, suddenly the flashes of upward smoke appeared halfway up the slope, and the fire seemed to break out into new vigour, and the cries and the fusillade mingled again Bacevics, 107 with intensified rage. The line of assault had moved up to the lower breastwork, and there was a hand-to-hand fight across it, and then the fire of the assailants and defenders could be distinguished again, the former converging from a distance, apparently not above fifty yards, on the diminished circle of defence, the insurgents having reversed the breast- work, and used it in attacking the upper work. Here was killed one of the bravest of the brave, Maxime Bacevics, voivode of Baniani, shot through the breast ; and here were men wounded on the insurgent side, for the first time, so far as I can learn, by bayonet or sword. Some of the assailants were wounded fearfully by stones thrown down on them, and the wounded began to come in past where we were sit- ting. One man came along walking slowly, but alone, with both hands cut across at the back, a gash in the neck, and a ball through the thigh, just clearing the hip joint. He showed us with a grim satisfaction the nose of the Turk who had given him the cuts, as did several others of the wounded. The afternoon was magnificent — nothing could be finer than the weather, in fact — sky cloudless, just a breath of northerly wind, and the crocuses and snowdrops in bloom on the sunny side of every elevation, while the snow lay undisturbed in the shade. In the distance were the snow- covered peaks of the Cmagora, and all around us the grey hills of Herzegovina, scantily flecked with the brown-leaved trees and shrubs which find occasional existence, or low, broad juniper bushes. Beneath us was the plain through which the Trebinje road runs, and at our right the slope on which the road rises to the ridge where the fort of Drien stands, on the platform of which we could distinguish with the naked eye the garrison moving uneasily about. At the left the road wound through the rolling ground, and was lost io8 Radovan- Zd7delo, to sight; but beyond, we could distinguish the blockhouses at Duzi, and at the end of the plain, where it seemed to be hemmed in by the hills, was Trebinje, its grey houses shin- ing in the sun, and the river gleaming in sudden turns here and there. Still further to the left was the Popovo-polje, and here and there we could catch the cries of the shepherds and goatherds to their flocks. Whether from the strange and violent contrast between the sunny, tranquil nature and the shouting of the excited combatants below me, the know- ledge of the slaughter going on at the moment, the occa- sional reminder in the moaning balls that wandered our way that the whole affair was dread earnest, the sight of the wounded men coming in — perhaps even in part from the natural sympathy with the hapless garrison, around whom a pitiless death was closing slowly, and who still held out with heroic obstinacy, or whether from the nervousness of the position, exaggerated by excessive fatigue — the whole thing excited in me a disgust and horror I never before in my life experienced, though it was neither my first experience under fire nor of this kind of fighting. The most vividly conscious feeling in all this fnelange was pity for the brave men on the hill. The afternoon was closing in, and there was no sign of movement from Trebinje. The wounded were coming in faster, and the path was marked with blood drops, and those who came in with the wounded confirmed the opinion that no assault would be given that day, although the fire was still unslackened. Almost every wounded man had an amputated nose to show, and they all said that there were m^ny killed and wounded, and more of the former than the latter. Most of the wounded we saw were hit by balls in the head and neck. Perovics — a Herzegovinian priest, who Radova7i-Zdrielo. 1 09 distinguished himself for gallantry at Muratovizza — here received a wound in the head, and his brother one in the neck. I felt ashamed to do nothing for the wounded, but I was scarcely able to drag myself along, and I doubt not they were, in spite of their wounds, as able-bodied as I for the moment, and in fact they took the matter in extreme nonchalance, only one or two whom I saw showing any symptom of suffering ; but we went back to the village with a number of them, who told us the details of the fight. Peko still remained on the battlefield. There were no horses but his, and these no one dared send for without his permission, and, beside, they were at Vukovics; so we slowly settled down to the conclusion that the only thing to be done was to pass the night in camp. The firing ceased at sunset, and the body of Maxime was brought in before . dark, amid general and evidently heartfelt lamentation. His own men wept like children, and it was very easy to see there was an extraordinary devotion felt towards the man by his followers and his fellow-captains. "A thousand Turks dead would not pay us for Maxime" — was the wail of old Peko, and his men swore a bloody vengeance for the morrow. All the long evening the men were coming in from the battlefield clamorously discussing the feats of this man and that other, the heroism of one or the other chief; the reliefs arming and going out, and, our cabin being the head- quarters, all the chiefs came in one by one through the evening, and Peko and Luka about eleven, when we got the report of the day's doings. The Turks had occupied and fortified both peaks, and made a double line of stone wall around the higher one. The lower peak being closely approached, and the force on it, seeing capture inevitable, evacuated the summit and ran for the higher, about sixty 1 1 o Radovan-Zdrielo, being caught and killed en route by the insurgents. The lower barricade was then attacked in the same way and finally carried, and all the dispositions made for an assault early next morning. Peko judged that there were about fifty of the garrison still alive, but these could with their breech-loaders do a great deal of damage before they were overpowered. However, it was necessary to finish with these before the troops came out from Trebinje, so he should order an attack a Panne blanche early next morning. After eating their supper of beef, roasted on sticks before the fire, and drink:ing raki, they went on dis- cussing the deeds of the day, until, stunned by the clamour of voices, which all seemed going at once, and each trying to drown the others, I wrapped myself in my shawl and lay down on the stone platform which surrounded the fireplace, and served, without even straw, as bed, and went soundly to sleep, in spite of smoke almost stifling, shouting, snoring, and all physical discomfort. When I woke it was daylight, and Peko came in to say that the scouts had come in reporting that the remnant of the garrison had escaped during the night ; as he then sup- posed, going to Trebinje, but, as we afterwards found, partly going to Drin, and being nearly all cut down by the insurgent guard on the road, others wandering off into the hills, and three or four came into Ragusa. In the two days^ fighting, /. ^., that on the road and the attack of the fortified position, the total Turkish loss was about 400 killed and 300 wounded who arrived at Trebinje, every one who did not being put to the sword, after the manner of those battles on both sides. The insurgent loss was about 100 killed and badly wounded, the latter being all brought to Ragusa. Bacevics. iir The loss of Maxime Bacevics was a very grave one, though he had never taken a leading part in military affairs owing to his youth, as he was related to the Prince of Montenegro- Can immense element of moral authority with his people), and was a hero of that type which always most strongly dominates such a warlike race — brave to rashness, politic, with exceptional physical powers, and the son of a brave man killed, as Maxime was, fighting with the Turks. His^ body was brought to Ragusa, where the demonstration and honours given to it at the funeral became the subject of diplomatic remonstrance.^ The streets were hung with * Sir H. Elliot to the Earl of Derby. My Lord, Constantinople^ February 14, 1876. The account of the encouragement and countenance given to the in- surgents at Ragusa greatly exceeds all that I was prepared for. The Russian Consulate is the open resort of the insurgent chiefs; their correspondence is sent to the Consul, who is a party to all their projects, and associates himself intimately with them. He does not appear to make an attempt to conceal the part he is playing, for on the occasion of the death of the Chief Maxime, in one of the late encounters, the Russian flag at the Consulate was hoisted at half-mast, and M. Jonine himself joined the funeral procession (!) With such acts as these it is not surprising that the insurgents should suppose their attempt to be fully approved by the Russian Government, for they can hardly be expected to believe that an accredited agent would venture upon them without knowing that it meets with the approval of his superior authorities. Some of the wounded when asked why they continue to struggle, when the Porte is ready to grant all their demands, have answered plainly that they are bound to go on as long as they are told by Russia to do so ( ! !) The assurances given at St. Petersburg of the wish of the Imperial. Government that the insurgents would lay down their arms, must naturally go for nothing as long as its official representative, with whom they are in communication, encourages them to go on. I have, &c., (Signed) Henry Elliot. The above is a fair example of the curious misrepresentation which, perplexed public opinion. None of the insurgent chiefs were allowed tO' 1 1 2 Bacevics, the Slav tricolour, and the popular demonstration was as imposing as that which had welcomed the Emperor to Dalmatia. visit the Russian Consulate at any time — if they met Jonine it was at Monteverde's, and this very rarely, so far as I know or believe only once — the Greek New Year. Jonine did not join in the funeral procession, for I myself accompanied it, and saw him on his balcony as it pa'ssed. The funeral was on Sunday, and all the consuls, except the Turkish, had their flags hoisted, as is the custom in honour of the day; but as the day was one of absolute calm, the flags hung to the masts like ropes, and Jonine distinctly denied half-masting his flag. A similar complaint was made of the English Consul, and he received a despatch from Sir Henry ElHot asking an explanation, though I am able to declare, on the evidence of my own eyes, that the flag was quite up to the masthead. Nor was there any more truth in the statement as to the wounded. The whole of these incidents were the shameless fictions of the Ottoman Consulate at Ragusa. W. J. S. 'i^n CHAPTER IX. 'he Turks remained quiet in Trebinje until the 29th, the road being in undisturbed possession of Peko. Muktar, stirred out of his confident slumbers 'at Mostar, began collecting all the disposable forces from the various fortresses, and concentrating at Trebinje for an irresistible attack on the insurgents, who held the position taken from the Turks on the 21st. Un- fortunately for the insurgents, the counsels of some young Russian officers who were serving as volunteers with Peko induced him to attempt a regular defence of the entrench- ments — a fatal mistake, which gave Muktar the only victory ever achieved under his personal command during the insur- rection. The generalship on both sides was bad, but on that of the Turks atrocious. Peko, whatever qualities he may possess as a partisan, had no appreciation of strategical points, and those who counselled him to offer pitched battle to the Turks on an almost level plain, opposed as he was by nearly five times his numbers, were responsible for what would have been a great disaster if the Turks had any con- ception of how to profit by it. The insurgents were formed across the road, holding the two hillocks fortified by the Turks in the previous affair, with a left wing at right angles I 114 Muktars Revenge, to this line and parallel to the road, and no right wing what- ever. The peak to the south of the road was held by Peko, that on the other side by Simonies (Bogdan), and the left wing, composed of the men of Nevesinje and Zubci, by Tripko Vukalovics, nephew of the chief of the insurrec- tionary forces in 1862. The whole force was about 1,700 men. The bands represented were those of Petkovics, Peko, Simonies, that of Maxime being united with Peko's for want of a chief, and those of Vukalovics and Milecivics (Gligor), though of those of Peko and Simonies only about half had descended from the Baniani and Piva districts. The Turks moved out of Trebinje on Monday night, taking positions behind Duzi, and in the morning moved slowly down the road, the principal force being on the road- way, with flanking columns in the open plain on either side. All day was occupied in this movement of about two hours* march, and as soon as the strength of the insurgents was ascertained together with their position, the force was halted just out of rifle-shot, and bivouacked in their places. The insurgents, meanwhile, had taken up their positions without ammunition, having received none since the late battle, and waited for it to arrive on the field. Some of them had not a single cartridge ; some had three or four, and a very few, who had not been engaged in the last aflair, had their full allowance. At eleven a.m. arrived ammunition enough to distribute about fifteen cartridges to each man in the line, and about two p.m. the Turks moved on, their artillery, two pieces, firing sixty shells, of which only five were sent in any known relation to the insurgents, and of these one only killed a man, a splinter of stone thrown off by it hitting him on the head. The fire of musketry was incessant, but so far over-head as to be quite harmless. The column on the Insttrgent Defeat, 115 road moved in close order with great steadiness, in spite of the insurgent fire on their dense mass, where it must have been very deadly, up to about 150 yards, when it halted and threw out a strong column to the left, which marched through the plain round the hill on the south of the road. Here appeared a curious evidence of Peko's incapacity to comprehend strategical considerations. There was in advance of his position a slight elevation, which the insur- gents had occupied in the morning, but abandoned, to con- centrate their forces in the entrenched positions. This was about to be occupied by a body of the advancing troops ; on seeing which Peko, calling on his men to follow him, charged up one side of the hill while the Turks were going up the other, and met them on the summit ; but, to his sur- prise, he found only four of his men behind him. He turned to fly, but in the advance the Turks had got between him and his men, and with three followers, the fourth regaining the entrenchments, he was obliged to make a detour of several hours' march and pass between Czarina and Drien to get back to his camp at Vukovich, late in the day, after the battle had been fought and lost. He was beheved to have been killed or in the hands of the Turks. His men, without a commander and discouraged by his supposed loss, abandoned their works as soon as the Turkish column had begun to menace their rear, and fled precipitately across the road, drawing with them those of Simonies, who all fell back on the elevations to the north of the road. The left wing, in the steadiest and most deliberate manner, fell back, keeping up a steady fire until positions were gained which checked pursuit, and which were those along the ridge from which I had looked at the former affair. Behind this it will be re- membered was the temporary camp ; but as this was in a ii6 Pekds Retreat, most exposed position, the plain half-circling it on the east, it was abandoned as soon as the wounded had been properly cared for and the dead carried away, with the exception of four, which fell into the hands of the Turks and were be- headed. The whole force fell back on Vukovich, and the Turks, who followed at a respectful and leisurely distance, burned the deserted village, which was, of course, abandoned by the inhabitants, with the exception of three women, who were murdered. All the villages in this section up to Vuko- vich were then burned, and the Turks advanced to the ridge overlooking that village, where they waited, without any attempt to accelerate the movements of the insurgents, or discommode them in any way, until the village should be evacuated, when they would burn it. It was evacuated next day after a council, in which some move was decided on ; and the whole band, with the exception of the wounded and their carriers, the camp-followers, and some of the timid or weak ones who had not nerve or muscle for the new undertaking, perhaps 300 or 400 in all, leaving a solid force of about 1,200 men, who made their final preparations, received their ammunition, &c., and dined gaily at Grebci, the Turkish force waiting respectfully on the heights oppo- site, at about 2,000 yards' distance. At about four p.m. they filed ofi" with cheers for unknown parts, the inhabitants of Grebci meanwhile making frantic haste to get their worldly goods across the frontier before the Turks should enter and bum the village. The escape of Peko and his band was a real masterpiece of irregular warfare. While Muktar Pasha waited till he should ascertain the movement of the insurgents, not even daring to attack Grebci, where a score or so of men only Andrassy Note. 1 1 7 remained, Peko reached the Trebinishitza on the Popovo plain, crossed it, and marched on Ljubinje, where he cap- tured a provision train, and then, making a wide circular march through an entirely undefended country, passed between Bilek and Trebinje, and reached Zubci without molestation. There he was rejoined by the balance of his corps, most of whom had passed through Ragusa, or by the Lloyd steamer to Castel Nuovo. Muktar burned all the villages along the Austrian frontier between Czarina and Grebci — eleven in number — none of them pr^iously molested, their population going to swell the number of the refugees in Dalmatia. His movement, which had only been accomplished by a concentration of all the disposable forces in Herzegovina, had been a draught of the seine come to shore empty j and Peko, instead of being driven over the frontier, had gone to ravage the country from which the troops had been withdrawn. The road to Ragusa was open, and the population of Trebinje preserved from starvation ; for they were so far reduced that crowds followed the army out, unable to wait till the provision train could arrive from Ragusa. But now all was to be begun over again, and another long interval of inefficiency and inactivity followed, broken by the necessity of organizing another expedition to provision Niksics, now again reduced to short allowance. The negotiations connected with the Andrassy Note (Appendix A) now began to complicate the military posi- tion, the impotence of the Porte to conquer the insurrec- tion having long been clear to everybody on the ground. An armistice was proposed, to enable the parties to discuss tranquilly the conditions of pacification ; but the terms pro- posed by the Andrassy Note were, in advance even of their official notification to the insurgent chiefs, rejected by a 1 1 8 Meeting at Stctorina. manifesto prepared at Sutorina, where most of the chiefs were encamped owing to the severity of the winter in the mountains, small detachments only of the various corps being kept at Duga. Receiving information of the deliberations on February 1 8th, I went to Sutorina, and there saw Socica and the prin- cipal chiefs, and, learning that the reply to the Note had been prepared, requested a copy for publication. This was pro- mised for the next day. The steamer of the next morning, however, brought Colonel Monteverde, who, on learning that a manifesto was prepared, and that I was going to get a copy for publication, galloped ahead of us to Socica's head-quarters, got possession of the document, and per- suaded (as he supposed) the chiefs to renounce any antici- pation of the official communication of the Note. In this, as I ascertained, Monteverde acted in obedience to official indications ; and when, some days later, I received at Ragusa the copy of the manifesto promised me (Appendix B), and communicated it to the Russian Consul-General there, it was received with unmistakable demonstrations of great irritation, and strong efforts were made to induce the chiefs to disavow it ; and the Russian agency published a telegram denying its authenticity (see "Times," Feb. 21st); but no threats or pressure could induce them to retract, Socica dis- tinctly and publicly declaring that he would lose his head before he would take back a word of it. It was signed by Socica and Simonies as the voivodes of Herzegovina, and Melentie as the representative of the Church; Peko as a volunteer was not included, but gave me his assurance, as did all the others, that they agreed with Socica in repelling all overtures on the basis of the Andrassy Note. The document has a certain value under the peculiar circum- Replies to the Andrassy Note, 119 stances, and as showing, when put side by side with the subsequent reply (Appendix C), the real effect of Russian influence, and the degree to which, under it, the insurgents were induced to bend their previous determinations. That Russia was anxious to terminate the affair there, is to my own mind beyond question, but there was no reason why she should require the insurgents to renounce all the benefit of their own struggles and advantages. There was a clear and easy solution of the problem offered by the subsequent propositions of the insurgents in the conference at Sutorina, and the comparison of them with the former note, shows how far the insurgents had yielded to conciliation, and what direction the Russian official influence took : the first being their independent detennination ; the second^ the determina- tion under Russian persuasion. CHAPTER X. ^ N the beginning of March the Turkish expedition to relieve Niksics and Goransko being about to start, the camp at Sutorina was broken up, and the whole force was concentrated between Baniani and Duga. The Turks concentrated at Gatschko, while ostenta- tious preparations were being made at Bilek, as if the army- were to start via Rudini by the upper road to Niksics. Selim Pasha in command at Gatschko, having neither mules nor horses for the commercial service, the insurgents were still more thrown off their guard, and Socica making a tour of inspection the morning of the 6th of March, perceived to his surprise a division of Turkish troops returning from Goransko. They had marched the night before from Gatschko; a thousand of them carrying sacks of flour on their backs, had reached Goransko, and set out to return immediately. Sending off runners to the other corps, he threw himself, with the two hundred men with him, across the intervening hills, and fell on the flank of the Turkish rear-guard. Peko with his band, about equal in strength, followed quickly, and the home guard of Piva came up in the rear, being by chance near at hand. The rear-guard faced about, and had fired two rounds in platoon when the firing was- Second Muratovizza. 121 heard in front of them, other bodies of insurgents having come in on the main body. Thereupon the rear-guard, fearing to be cut off, faced about and marched rapidly forward, harassed by the insurgent fire, and speedily breaking into a run. As the different bodies of the insurgent force heard the firing, they took up the march towards the road, falling con- tinually on the flank of the long column with fresh men, and the troops making scarcely any resistance ; but, having the road open before them, they made for Gatschko rapidly. The garrison at that fortress, hearing the firing and that it approached them, sent out another battalion with two guns to meet the fugitives and cover their retreat. These met the flying column, and were instantly enveloped by it. One gun was taken on the spot, the gunners being all cut down and the mules captured ; the other, on the carriage ready to- fire, was dragged by the troops along the road two or three miles at least, when, the snow being nearly middle deep, in a melting and sodden state, and the wheels being up to the axles in it, it was overtaken by the insurgents and captured. Near Lipnik is a river, dry in the summer, like the others of Herzegovina, but then swollen so high, and so rapid as to make the ford dangerous, and here the troops huddled together in a dense mass, crowding the ford, many being carried away by the torrent and drowned, and the whole ex- posed to the furious onslaught of the insurgents concentrat- ing around them. It was ten o'clock at night when the pursuit ceased, with a bright moon, and those who had suc- ceeded in fording the river escaped to Lipnik. The loss on the Turkish side was never exactly known, but one of the Russian volunteers wrote that it was a veritable St. Bartho- lomew — simply butchery. The number of " heads " taken 122 Second Mttratovizza, the outrageous practices of the landlords provoked numerous general or partial outbreaks. A movement of this kind having broken out in 1858 in the north 1 66 Appendix A . of Bosnia, the Porte was prevailed upon to take into its con- sideration the disputes which had occasioned it. Delegates from both sides were summoned to Constantinople, and, after long discussions, in which the officious intercession of the Internuncio of His Majesty the Emperor and King had a share, a Firman was obtained from the Sultan, the provisions of which appeared at that time sufficient to conciliate successfully enough the interests of the agricultural proprietors. However, this Firman has never been carried into execution. It would not be out of place to examine, if some of the pro- visions of this document could not, even at the present time, serve as the basis for an equitable arrangement suitable for the amelioration of the condition of the rural population, or if it would be practicable to call upon the pubhc treasury to facihtate the execution of the measures to be taken with this object, in imitation of what occurred twenty years ago in Bulgaria, where the landlord's dues have been bought up by means of the issue of public obligations ij) called " sekims.'' We feel that the task is difficult, and that its accomplish- ment cannot be the work of a day ; but we believe that it is important to labour at it, so as to ameliorate the lot of the rural population in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and to close thus one of the open wounds in the social condition of these Provinces. It would not seem impossible to us to find some combination which should gradually permit the peasants to acquire, on easy terms, portions of the waste lands which the State puts up to sell. Whilst continuing, if they wished, to cultivate as farmers the estates of their Mussulman compatriots, they would, by degrees, attain to the possession themselves of a little real pro- perty, which would assure them a certain independence, and would provide for their imposts. If one considers the distrust with which the promises of the SubHme Porte are received by the Christians, it is impossible to disguise from oneself that the published reforms can only inspire the necessary confidence by the creation at the same time of some institution capable of offering a certain guarantee that these reforms will be executed in earnest. To content one- self with confiding their execution to the discretion of the Provincial Governments would not be sufficient to remove the distrust of which I am speaking. It would be expedient then to nominate a Commission of the notables of the country, composed Appendix A, 167 half of Mussulmans and half of Christians, and elected by the inhabitants of the Province in accordance with a scheme to be settled by the Sublime Porte. I have now set forth the measures, the application of which to the revolted Provinces must be obtained t6 enable one to enter- tain a well-grounded hope of pacification. These measures are as follows : — Religious liberty, full and entire ; Abolition of the farming of taxes ; A law to guarantee that the product of the direct taxation of Bosnia and Herzegovina shall be employed for the immediate interests of the Province, under the control of bodies con- stituted in the sense of the Firman of December 12 ; The institution of a Special Commission, composed of an equal number of Mussulmans and Christians, to superintend the execution of the reforms proposed by the Powers, as well as of those proclaimed in the Irade of October 2 and Firman of December 12 ; Lastly, the amelioration of the condition of the rural popula- tions. The first four points could and should be immediately carried out by the Sublime Porte ; the fifth by degrees, as soon as possible. If, independently of these concessions, which appear to us the most essential, Bosnia and Herzegovina obtain in addition the following reforms indicated in the recent .Firman, a Provincial Council and tribunals freely elected by the inhabitants, irre- movability of judges, secular justice, individual liberty, security against ill-treatment, the reorganization of the police, whose conduct has excited so many complaints, the abandonment of the abuses to which the levies for pubUc works give rise, an equitahle reduction in the tax for exemption from miUtary service, security for proprietary rights, — if all these reforms, the communication of which we claim from the Porte, in order to take formal note thereof, are applied in the insurgent Provinces, which, to judge by the text of the Firman, would not appear as yet to be in a position to benefit by them, one may hope to see peace restored in these desolated districts. To resume. The indefinite promises of the Irade of October 2 and Firman of December 12 can only excite aspirations without satisfying them. On the other hand, it is clear that the Turkish 1 68 Appendix A . arms have not succeeded in putting down the insurrection. Winter has suspended action, spring will see it revive. The conviction is general among the Christians that, spring once come, fresh elements will strengthen the proceedings ; that Bulgaria, the Cretans, &c. will come to swell the movement. Be this as it may, it is to be foreseen that the Governments of Servia and Montenegro, who already, up to this time, have had great diffi- culty in holding aloof from the movement, will be powerless to resist the current, and for the future, under the influence of events and of public opinion in their countries, they appear to have accustomed themselves to the idea of taking part in the struggle on the melting of the snows. In this situation the task of the Powers, who in the interest of the general peace desire to stave off ulterior complications, becomes very difficult. Austria- Hungary and the two other Imperial Courts, after a confidential exchange of ideas, are all agreed that, were one merely to await the effect of the principles enunciated by the last Firman — principles which, moreover, according to the intentions of the Porte, do not appear to be intended to be immediately applied to the revolted countries — the only result would be to see the conflict widely extended at the termination of the winter. The three Cabinets then think that the only chance to avoid fresh complications is in a mani- festation emanating from the Powers, and making clear their firm resolution to arrest the movement which menaces to involve the East. Now this end cannot be attained by the simple method of an injunction addressed to the Governments of the PrincipaHties and to the Christian populations subjects of the Sultan. To give this action, very difficult in itself, a chance of success, it is ab- solutely necessary that the Powers should be in a position to appeal to acts, clear, indisputable, practicable, and specially suited for the improvement of the situation of Herzegovina and Bosnia — in one word, that their action may be grounded on facts and not on programmes. It is only by these means that the Cabinets will find themselves in a position to turn to a proper account their pacific counsels. There is another difficulty — and it is the greatest — which must, at all hazards, be overcome if one hopes to be able to reckon on any sort of a favourable result. This difficulty is the deeply- rooted distrust that every promise of the Porte's encounters at Appendix A, 169 the hands of the Christians. One of the principal causes of this mistrust is discoverable in the fact that more than one measure announced in the Sultan's latest rescripts has already been announced in former Hatti-Chdrifs, without causing any ap- preciable amelioration of the lot of the Christians. The Cabinets think it therefore absolutely necessary to obtain from the Sultan's Government, by means of an official Com- mission, the confirmation of his intentions with regard to the whole Empire, set forth in the Irade of October 2 and Firman of December 12, and his notification to the Powers of his ac- ceptance of the points specified above, the special object cff which is the pacification of the revolted Provinces. Undoubtedly the Christians would not, by this method, obtain the form of guarantee they appear to demand at this moment, but they would find a relative security in the very fact that the reforms accorded would be recognized as indispensable by the Powers, and that the Porte would have pledged itself to Europe to carry them into execution. Such is the firm conviction resulting from a preliminary ex- change of ideas between the Cabinets of Austria, Hungary, Russia, and Germany. . Your Excellency is directed to bring this view of the case ta the knowledge of the Court of St. James, and to obtain its con- currence in the work of peace, the success of which our efforts tend to assure. If, as I hope, the views of the English Government accord with our own, we should propose, out of consideration for the dignity and independence of the Porte, not to address our advice to the latter in the form of a collective note, but to confine our- selves to inviting our Representatives at Constantinople to act conjointly and in an identic manner towards the Sultanas Government in the sense of what we have set forth. You will be so good, M. le Comte, as to read the present despatch to the Minister for Foreign Affairs, and to leave him a copy of it, and I should be glad to know as soon as possible the impression it has made on his Excellency. Receive, &c. APPENDIX B. Manifesto of the Insurgent Chiefs issued prior TO THE Official Communication of the Andrassy Note. Insurgent Camp, Suiorina, Feb. 26. 'We wish to express ourselves simply and without any disguise. We wish to reply to certain correspondences and programmes — Jto our enemies as well as to our friends ; to those who are sym- pathetic as well as to those who are antipathetic. We Herzegovinians belong to a nation oppressed — a nation enslaved for five centuries, a nation which has been, neverthe- less, the source from which has sprung the noblest and purest .Serbian blood. All Europe knows that this is the truth. But when the sabre of the Osmans had conquered us in a fheroic combat at Kossovo, we ourselves bound our liberty with a heavy chain. Let us say that it was the will of God that the .glory of Mahomet should shine out, and that the cross of Jesus should shed tears. But we have not complained to Europe, nor do we do so now ; it was the fortune of the Turkish arms and the effect of our discords which, as it seems, still exist among us (in some branches of our nation), and we may, wdthout fear or shame, say that this discord touches our relation Servia. It is very painful for us to say it, although we must recognize it, that, if there were on the throne a descendant of the immortal Kara George, or a direct descendant of Milosch, he could not hear the cries of our martyrs without being touched. In truth, the noble spirit of the dead Prince Milosch — if we were as happy to have it as we are unhappy with not having it — would not have counted by feet the depth of the sea nor the iheight of the heaven in a critical moment. He would not have Appendix B, 171 looked about him to the right and to the left, but would have taken the direct road to poor Bosnia and Herzegovina. Rut, alas ! . . . . On the other side we hear, but understand nothing of all these projects of reform that some European Cabinets have formed, in order that the oppressed Christians of Turkey should obtain equaUty with Mussulmans. For it is not only uncertain, but im.- practicable. In these projects of reform there is not a word said as to real liberty — liberty, independent and securely guaranteed by the Powers of Europe. That is the project of reform we need. Such reforms suit us ; if not, give us the tomb which will bury us, and where we may go down, quitting the world. The friends of our country, whether they are such or seem as much so as possible, think that they have a reason or a right to hear and support the barbarous savages from Asia who have conquered us, have caused our discords, and who, among the other nations, are only as leprous sheep in a healthy flock. We repeat — only true liberty can disarm us, and to crush us there is need of more numerous arms than those of the Osmans ; and then the women will remain after us to avenge us, receiving from our hands arms for our children that they may, even in dying, defend the liberty and rights of our people. All the more that the hand of the stranger is on us, we beg the friends and defenders of our country to aid and to avenge us. Aid us ! hear us ! now or never ! . . . . Austria, in its position of neighbouring State, did and still does good to bur children, our old men and our women. Eternal gratitude to her from our chiefs and from our nation ! The immortal Liberator, Italy's crown of glory, Garibaldi, assists us energetically, and shows himself the protecting father of our oppressed people. Blessed be he by us and our descend- ants. Powerful England, the greatest friend of the Turkish Empire, held it in her arms believing that she held a worthy child, which would grow into a honest man, magnanimous and useful to other nations. But she has opened her eyes and perceives that, instead of a man, she has supported a venomous serpent, which, grown great and strong, and for the sorrow of humanity, endea- voured to poison and devour it, and at last even would have bitten the hand that had given it to eat. This powerful kingdom has 1/2 Appendix B, launched it into the deadly abyss, and, hearing our cries, has given us its support, for which we owe it eternal gratitude. Our brothers, our true brothers, the noble Serbian blood, the proud sons of the Voivodina, watch day and night over and for our liberty, as the mother and father over the cradle of their only son or daughter, ill. To the noble line of this race, in the midst of whom we see and hear the name of Miletich, we can say nothing, but we counsel our descendants to honour it. That which, however, we regret is that they do not endeavour to inform our brothers in Servia that we are now in full combat with the Turks, that our old men and women are falling victims to a thousand woes, and that our country prays for their brotherly aid, and that our blood while it flows demands vengeance of our sister Servia. In truth, if they heard us they would help us, but they are so far (not by measurement of earth) from us ! . . . . Therefore we beg our brothers of the Voivodina to spread the news everywhere and repeat to every one that the houses of Montenegro are filled with our refugees, and that their number has become greater than that of the population was, yet that they nevertheless do not complain ; on the contrary, their fraternal arms are always open. Nevertheless, we demand of Montenegro as of Servia that it should enter openly into the field, and that it should find out our spilt blood, which cries out for vengeance, not looking towards Servia, apathetic and neutral, so far from us. The combinations of diplomacy over which the world may de- bate and agree are not our affair. Our true and holy object is to-day to confront the enemy for our defence, and to watch on every side lest fortune, which has hitherto protected us, should betray us. We go on to fight, to burn, and to conquer. We can only become tranquil under the happiness of the liberty of which Montenegro shows us the example. We look unitedly, we hope and wait that the powerful, strong, and glorious Russia should appear as the protector of Slavo-Serb liberty— now or never ! If she has ever loved or desired our liberty, may our morning receive its light from the powerful goodwill of her illustrious throne. It is from her that we hope for the protection of our liberty, but we ask of the other European nations that they give us our independence. And our arms, once freed from all encumbrances, will write in bloody letters for the Turks the reforms they have so often dictated to us. As to Prussia, glorious and free, we do not doubt that she is Appendix B, 173 our friend, and we hope to find her among those who the first will aid our liberty, for which we ask her pity. Signed for the Army and the Chiefs of the Insurgents at Sutorina, VOIVODE LAZAR SOCICA. Melentie Perovics, Archimandrite. VoivoDE Pope Bogdan (Simonics). Then appears, as a protocol, the following : — Anew we call on the Power of Russia, which has conferred on us benefits in offering us money to build our churches and our schools ; which has given us crosses and gilded robes for the Mass, &c. But while our poor priests celebrated the Mass in those same robes, the Mussulmans dishonoured their women in their houses. Because Russia cannot be deaf and cruel, she will watch over our holy rites and our independence in order that we may not rest eternally slaves. We desire only complete inde- pendence, or death. We sign with our blood this declaration, and accept no other proposition. (Signed as before.) APPENDIX C. Address of the Insurgent Chiefs to Baron Rodics,. Subsequent to the Communication of .the Andrassy Note. Excellency, — None can more appreciate the rectitude, nor recognize witb more sincere gratitude the undertaking of powerful Austria in thus attempting to amehorate the condition of the Christians in Turkey, and of us insurgents — a condition so wretched as to have become henceforth insupportable. The Imperial Austrian Government may be assured that the Herzegovinian nation is profoundly touched, and grateful for all that that Government has done for our good. We, having been obedient to the summons of Austria, and desirous of following her counsels, ask permission of your Excellency, as of a friendly intermediary with the Imperial Government, to say frankly what we have at heart, and what we desire, especially as we think and believe that no one in the world can expect that we shall return into the power of the Turks, and into the condition in which we have lived hitherto ; as also that no one in the world can desire that we should so return. Everything in our country is burned and laid waste. With what spirit can we return to this unhappy country of ours ? Austria has been so good as to interest herself about us and our existence, and has informed us that she has obtained some reform for us. In the words of Austria we have trust, and therefore we accept these reforms, but only when they shall have been put into execution, then will we return under the sovereignty of the Sultan. It is true Turkey has promised to execute them, and says that the Powers have guaranteed them, but we cannot on any account Appendix C, 175 believe that Turkey means to or can execute them. Therefore, no sincere friend of our unhappy nation will think we are wrong in seeking for secure guarantees for our amelioration, which, guarantees we submit and present to your Excellency : — I. That to the Christians shall be given at least a third of the lands as their property — lands which the Turks took and usurped from the. Christians, and without which third the latter will not be able to live.^ II. That Turkey withdraws the troops in the Herzegovina and shall only maintain garrisons which shall be recognized as necessary in the following places : Mostar, Stolatz, Trebinje, Niksics, Plevlje, and Fotcha. III. That Turkey cause to be rebuilt the houses and churches- that have been burned, provide for the Christians food for at least a year, and agricultural implements, and exempt them from taxation for three years from the date of their return. IV. That the Christians shall not lay down their arms until the Mussulmans shall have been disarmed, and until the reforms are in process of execution. V. The Christians having returned, their leaders shall come to an understanding with the Government as to the execution of the reforms. The said leaders shall compose an assembly with the functionaries of the Government for the application and the regulation of the said reforms, which latter must be extended to the whole of Bosnia and the Herzegovina. VI. As the insurgents cannot trust to the simple promises of the Porte, which it has never been known to keep, and as also the Porte will with difficulty support its own troops, the insur- ^ Since writing the above, I have seen the report which M. Durando sends this day to his Government upon the Ad- dress of the insurgents. He points out that the demand for a third of the lands must not be considered as indicative of communistic aspirations, but as a clumsily expressed desire for the revocation of the agrarian regulations of 1851 and 1862, which abolished the ancient feudal privileges of the tillers of the soil.— Mr. MONSON (Blue Book). The original tenure of land in Bosnia, &c., was communal, the Beys having only a feudal right of contribution in return for personal protection. The assumption of exclusive property in the land was a usurpation favoured by Islam. — W. J. S. 1 76 Appendix C gents fearing that the money given by the Porte for the Chris- tians may be lost in the hands of the Turkish employes, who would distribute nothing, and would let the Christians starve ; and as the insurgents know that they would get no help from the Porte, even if the Powers should protest : — on these grounds, we demand that the money shall be paid into the hands of the Treasurer of a European Commission ; that this Commission shall receive all the funds for the reconstruction by itself of the houses and churches, and for the distribution of provisions to the Christian families, erecting for that purpose central store- houses in convenient places. Finally, we demand that in the before-mentioned garrisons, occupied by the Turks, the Governments of Austria and Russia shall establish agents, who shall see that the reforms are exe- cuted as we desire. While we do not dare to ask for more, we cannot, on the other hand, ask for less for our safety and tranquillity. We submit these our desires to Austria through the medium of your Excellency. c. , . March 26 o-z: Sutorina, ^^^^.^ ^^ 1876. APPENDIX D. Berlin Note. ^^^^ 2^r HE alarming tidings which come from Turkey are of a nature to impel the three Cabinets to draw closer their intimacy. The three Imperial Courts have deemed them- selves called upon to concert amongst themselves measures for averting the dangers of the situation, with the concurrence of the other great Christian Powers. It appears to them that the existing state of affairs in Turkey demands a double series of measures. It seems to them of primary importance that Europe should consider the general means necessary to guard against the recurrence of events similar to those which have recently taken place at Salonica, and the repetition of which is threatened at Smyrna and Con- stantinople. To effect this the Great Powers should, in their opinion, come to an understanding as to the measures to be taken to insure the safety of their own subjects and of the Chris- tian inhabitants of the Ottoman Empire, at all points w^here it may be found to be endangered. It would appear possible to attain this end by a general agree- ment concerning the despatch of vessels of war to the menaced points, and by the adoption of combined instructions to the com- manders of those vessels in cases where circumstances might require armed co-operation on their part with the object of maintaining order and tranquillity. Nevertheless, this end would be but imperfectly attained if the primary cause of those disturbances were not removed by the prompt pacification of Bosnia and Herzegovina. The Great Powers have already united in this view upon the initiative taken in the despatch of the 30th of December last, N 1/8 Appe7idix D, with the object of obtaining an effective ameUoration in the con- dition of the populations of these countries, without interfering with the political status quo. They demanded of the Porte a programme of reforms destined to answer this double purpose. The Porte, deferring to this de- mand, declared itself firmly resolved to execute these reforms, and communicated this officially to the Cabinets. The latter thereby acquire a moral right — that of watching over the accomplishment of this promise, and an obligation — that of insisting that the insurgents and refugees should second this work of pacification by terminating the struggle and returning to their homes. Nevertheless, this programme of pacification, though it has been adopted in principle by both parties, has encountered a twofold obstacle. The insurgents have declared that past experience forbids them to trust the promises of the Porte, without a positive mate- rial European guarantee. The Porte, on its side, has declared that, as long as the insur- gents were scouring the country in arms, and the refugees did not return to their homes, it was materially impossible for it to proceed to the new organization of the country. In the meantime hostilities have resumed their course. The agitation engendered by this strife of eight months has extended to other parts of Turkey. The Mussulman populations have been thereby led to conclude that the Porte had only apparently deferred to the diplomatic action of Europe, and that at heart it did not intend seriously to apply the promised reforms. Thence, arose a revival of religious and political passions, which has con- tributed to cause the deplorable events at Salonica and the menacing over-excitement which manifests itself at other points of European Turkey. Nor is it doubtful that in its turn this explosion of fanaticism reacts on men's minds in Bosnia and Herzegovina as in the neighbouring Principalities. For the Christians in these countries must have been keenly impressed by the fact of the massacre of the European Consuls, in open day, in a peaceful town, under the eyes of powerless authorities ; how can they be induced to trust themselves to the goodwill of Turks irritated by a protracted and sanguinary struggle } Appendix D, 1 79 Were this state of affairs to be prolonged the risk would thus be incurred of seeing that general conflagration kindled which the mediation of the Great Powers was precisely intended to avert. It is most essential, therefore, to establish certain guarantees of a nature to insure beyond doubt the loyal and full application of the measures agreed upon between the Powers and the Porte. It is more than ever urgent to press the Government of the Sultan to decide on setting itself seriously to work to fulfil the engagements it has contracted towards Europe. As the first step in this direction the three Imperial Courts propose to insist with the Porte, with all the energy that the united voice of the three Powers should possess, on a suspension of arms being effected for the term of two months. This interval would enable action to be brought to bear simul- taneously on the insurgents and the refugees, to inspire them with confidence in the vigilant solicitude of Europe ; on the neighbouring Principalities, to exhort them not to hinder this attempt at conciliation ; and finally on the Ottoman Government, to place it in a position to carry out its promises. By this means the way might be opened for direct negotiations between the Porte and the Bosnian and Herzegovinian delegates, on the basis of the wishes the latter have formulated, and which have been deemed fit to serve as starting points for a discussion. These points are as follows : — 1. That materials fgr the reconstruction of dwelling-houses and churches should be furnished to the returning refugees, that their subsistence should be assured to them till they could sup- port themselves by their own labour. 2. In so far as the distribution of help should appertain to the Turkish Commissioner, he should consult as to the measures to be taken with the Mixed Commission, mentioned in the note of the 30th of December, to guarantee the bond fide application of the reforms and control their execution. This Commission should be presided over by a Herzegovinian Christian, and be com- posed of natives faithfully representing the two religions of the country. They should be elected as soon as the armistice should have suspended hostilities. 3. In order to avoid any collision, advice should be given at Constantinople to concentrate the Turkish troops, at least until excitement has subsided, on some points to be agreed upon. 1 80 Appendix D, 4. Christians as well as Mussulmans should retain their arms, 5. The Consuls or Delegates of the Powers should keep a watch over the application of the reforms in general, and on the steps relative to the repatriation in particular. If, with the friendly and cordial support of the great Powers^ and by the help of an armistice, an arrangement could be con- cluded on these bases, and be set in train immediately by the return of the refugees, and the election of the Mixed Commission,, a considerable step would be made towards pacification. If, however, the armistice were to expire without the efforts of the Powers being successful in attaining the end they have in view, the three Imperial Courts are of opinion that it would become necessary to supplement their diplomatic action by the sanction of an agreement with a view to such efficacious measures as might appear to be demanded in the interest of general peace, to check the evil and prevent its development. INDEX. ^CHMET Hamdi Pasha, 73, 99. Aga Biscevics, 68. Agics, death of, 73. Ali Pasha, views of, 134. Andrassy Note, 117 ; reply to, 119, 130, Appendix A ; insurgents reply to, Appendix B and C. Armistice, negotiations for, 122. Austrian committees, 51. Austrian influence, 8, 12. Baniani, 7. Barbieux, 44. Bashi-bazooks, juvenile, 58 ; brutal outrage by, 58. Berlin Note, Appendix D ; follows failure of conference at Sutorina, 14c. Eilek, massacre at, 135. Blue-book. Consul Holmes on the Consular Commission, 12; Sir H. Elliot on the Popovo affair, 53 ; Server Pasha on Turkish victories, 60 ; Consul Freeman on tax reforms, 66 ; Sir H. Elliot on Montenegrin intervention, 76 ; Grand Vizier on the blockade of Montenegro, 92 ; vSir H. Elliot on honours paid to body of Bacevics, m ; Mr. Monson on conference at Ragusa and provisioning of Niksics, 123; memorial of Prince of Montenegro on the treachery of Muktar Pasha, 124 ; Consul Holmes and Sir H. Elliot on Montenegrin intervention at Niksics, 126; Consul Taylor on Turkish concessions, 130; Mr. Monson on Turkish concessions, 131 ; Sir A. Buchanan on the In- surgent propositions, 139; Lord Augustus Loftus on the same, 139. Bocche di Cattaro, agitation in, 16. Bosnia, insurrection in, 6. Boyana, 98. Castel Nuovo, debarkation of insurgents at, I, 532. 1 82 Index. Catholic participation in insurrection, 3. Cattaro, 26. Cettinje, description of, 18 ; place of refuge to Mussulmans, 69 ; second visit to, 76. Christian governors, 157, 158. Civics, 70. Committees, insurrecfionaiy, 7, 12, 32, 33, 49, 51, 75, loi, 102, 137. Constant Pasha, attempt to entrap insurgent chiefs, li, 13 ; report on Popovo, 53. Conscription of horses, 67. Consular commission, effect on the insurrection, 14; in favour of inter- vention, 63. Cretan insurrection prepares the way for the Herzegovinian, 5, 6. Crivoscie, 16, 26. Crivoscians, 7, 15, 29. Crnagora, 17, 18. Croatia, Catholic insurrection in, 6. Czarina, 35. Dalmatia, union with Bosnia necessary, 56, 153. Danilograd, 85, 89. Decapitation, 72. Declaration of war by Montenegro and Servia, 145. Dervish Pasha, 28, 11. Djellaledin Pasha wounded at Duga, 122. Dobrotskoselo,'78, 81. Drien, 36. Duga, unsuccessful attempt to pass by Muktar, 122 ; Socica decides to> make stand at, 77 ; defeated at, 100 ; second attempt, 124; successful,, 125 ; final, 127. Duzi, monastery of, 14, 37. Emperor of Austria, visit of, to Dalmatia, 2. Eshref Pasha, 97-99. Fugitives in Montenegro, 10. Gatschko, 28 ; retreat of Turks to, 73 ; concentration of the Turks at,, 76, 120-125. Glavski-dol, 35. Goransko, provisioned by treaty with insurgents, 76 ; relieved, 120. Grahovo, 26. Grebci, 41 ; insurgent camp at, 44. Index. i8j- Herzegovina, mountain districts in insurrection, 15. Herzegovinians, condition of, prior to insurrection, 8, 9, 10 ; military value of, 29 ; grievances, 31. Hostages, imprisonment of, 9. Hotti, 77. Hussein Pasha, 35, 37. Insurgents, rule of, 75 ; again menace Trebinje, 103 ; defeat om Trebinje road, 115 ; chiefs reply to Baron Rodich, 138. Insurgent manifesto at Sutorina, Appendix B. Insurrectionary equipment, 34. Interests of England, 1 58. Jabliak, 78. Jonine, differences between, and the agents of the committees, 102, iii,. 112 ; accused of joining demonstration at Bacevics' funeral, iii. Klek, 21, 33 ; expedition to, 40 ; visit to, 56, 57. Koumani, 83. Krstaz, battle at, 100. Kutchi, 79, 84 ; summoned to give hostages, 143 ; chiefs of made pri- soners by the Turks, 144. Lake of Scutari, spreading of, 79. Lipnik, 121. Ljubibratics, 11, 42, 48, 50; imprisonment of, 129.. Ljubinje, 41, 117. Luka Petkovics, ii, 45, 114; L. Petkovics and Melentie refuse the propositions of Baron Rodich, 128. Luka Vukalovics, 48. Maps of Plerzegovina. Preface. Maxime Bacevics, death of, 109; funeral ceremonies of, ill ; diplo- matic remonstrances connected with, ill; Turkish falsehoods con- cerning, III, 112. Medjlis, independence of, 67. Medun, 79 ; first battle of, 145. Melentie, Archimandrite of Duzi, 46; signs manifesto of Sutorina, 118.. Metkovich, 57. Milecivics, Gligor, of Bilek, 10, 1 14. Military border system adaptable to Bosnia and Herzegovina, 153. Montenegro, obligations towards the Herzegovinians, 23 ; panorama of, 77 ; assumes direction of insurrection, 103 ; expulsion of foreign volunteers from, 129 ; difficult position of, 141 ; critical position of affairs in Servia and, 144. 1 84 htdex. Montenegrins, 20 ; in Herzegovina, 74. Montenegrin neutrality, 13 ; volunteers, 13, 15 ; contingent renewed, 103; authorities call insurgent chiefs together, 129; armament, 144- Monteverde, 105, 112, 118. Moratscha river, 92. Mostar, journey to, 55, 58, 59. Muktar Pasha assumes command, 102 ; returns to Mostar, 103 ; at Trebinje, 112 ; destruction of villages by, 117, 122; ordered to go to Niksics at any cost, 123 ; blockaded in Duga, 124 ; extricates himself, 125 ; renews attempt to provision Niksics, and reaches Niksics, 125 ; again assembles troops to attack insurgents, 140 ; menaces to attack Montenegro, 1 43. Muratovizza, first battle of, 72 ; second battle of, 121. Nevesinje, oppressive tax-farmer in, 10 ; refugees from, 11. Niksics, 74 ; preparations to relieve, 120 ; relieved, 125, 127. Njegush, 17, 18. Novi Bazar, 21. Omar Pasha, 4, 5. Osman Pasha, 126, 127. Ostrog, %(> ; siege of, 88 ; festa of, 88. 'Ottoman administrators, 157. Peko Pavlovics, his imprisonment of Ljubibratics, 11 ; joins insurrec- tion, 15, 35, 41 ; celebrates Greek New Year's Day at Ragusa, 103 ; strategetical qualities of, 113, 1 15; retreat of, after Radovan-Zdrielo, 116; approves Sutorina manifesto, 118; participates in second Muratovizza, 120. Piva, 7, 28. Plamnitza, 95. Plana, attack on, by Peko, 100. Podgoritza, 84, 91 ; arrest at, 93 ; concentration at, 144. Pope Milo, 45. Pope Minja, 45. Popovo affair, 50, 52. Preservation of old forms advisable in reconstruction, 154. Presieka, provision trains reach, 124. Prince of Montenegro permits his subjects to go to Herzegovina, 13, 19; favours declaration of war in 1875, ^^ j would have accepted the *' Times" proposition, 22 ; unsafe to have forbidden aid for the in- surgents, 23 ; interview with, 24 ; proposal of insurgents to intrust reforms to, 43 ; gives information as to force of insurrection, 74 ; Index, 185; devoted to road-making, 81 ; undertakes direction of the insurrec- tion, 103; re victuals Niksics, 122; undertakes negotiation of truce at Duga, 123 ; undertakes protection of the interests of the in- surgents, 140. Radovan-Zdrielo, first battle of, 104 ; second battle of, 106, 109 ;. third battle of, 1 14. Ragusa, 11, 14, 15, 34. Raouf Pasha, 73 ; assembles forces for Niksics, 76 ; expedition to- Niksics, 100 ; recalled, 102. Rayah and Mussulman, relation between, 39. Reconstruction, 147 ; foreign administrators indispensable for, 151. Refugees, 30; decline Austrian proposition for repatriation, 127. Rieka, 77 ;. river, 82, 83. Risano, 26. Rodich, Baron, negotiations of with insurgents, 127; calls conference of Turkish authorities at Ragusa, 129 ; conference with insurgent chiefs, 136. Russia, 22 ; leaves Prince of Montenegro free to act, 143. Russian influence, 8, 12, 13, 22; first occurrence of intervention, loi; increased aid from, loi j Red Cross expedition to Cettinje, loi ;. action of public opinion on the officials, 102. Russian, Austrian, and Montenegrin Governments press insurgents to- accept the Andrassy Note, 130. vSaint Basil, %%. Selim Pasha, 120. Self-government impracticable in reconstruction, 151. Server Pasha, 60 ; reforms of, 65, 67. Servia, 21. Servian crisis, 21 ; defection, 23. Shefket Pasha at Popovo, 50, 52; sent away in disgrace, 53; deserters- from the army of, 102. Simonies, Pope Bogdon, 10, 45, 75, 114; signs Sutorina manifesto,. 118 ; defeats Djellaledin Pasha, 122. Skuptchina, Servian, 20. Slav, social organization of, 155 ; pronunciation of names. Preface. Smeretchna, 122. Socica, 10; joins insurrection, 15 ; operations of, 71; dissension with Peko; signs manifesto of Sutorina with Simonies, 118; attacks- Turks returning from Goransko, 120. Solution, truest, participation of England with Russia, 153. Spush, 84, 90. 1 86 Index. Suchitza river, 84. Sufferings of insurgents and troops from cold, 102. Sutorina, 33; manifesto, 118; attempt to recall manifesto by Russian agents, 118 ; camp broken up, 120. '* Times," proposition of, 22. Tree of justice, 19, Trebinje, siege of, 14, 15, 36; Turkish movement from, 114. Trieste, 7 ; committee at, 7. Turkish soldiers, 40; condition of at Mostar, 62; justice, 68; menaces to attack Montenegro, 103; conciliatory propositions of Govern- ment, 130; withdrawal of propositions, 131 ; pecuniary assistance preferred by Government, 135; grain sent by Government for insur- gents, 135 ; delegates decline to give any guarantee to refugees, 136 ; troops blockade southern frontier of Montenegro, 142 ; troops con- centrate at Podgoritza to attack the Kutchi, 144 ; incapacity of Government to secure progress, 147 ; interests of Europe demand abolition of Government, 150. Utovu, battle of, 41. • Vaso, 77. Vercevics, Austrian consul at Trebinje, 39. Vukalovics, 114. Vukotics, director of insurrection, 103. War of 1862, 4, 23, 24, 48. Wassa Effendi, views of, 132. Wassics, plan of, 64. Wesselitzky, operations of, 136. Yaksics, 129. Zara, committee of, 12; hostile to Montenegro, 49. Zeta river, 84, %(>. Zlostop, 122. Zupa, 16. CHISWICK PRESS :— C WHITTINGHAM, TOOKS COURT, CHANCERY LANE. 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