J THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES NEW SYSTEM O F GEOGRAPHY: IN WHICH IS GIVEN, A General Account of the Situation and Limits, the Manners, History, and Constitution, of the feveral Kingdoms and States in the known World ; And a very particular Defcription of their Subdivifions and Dependencies ; their Cities and Towns, Forts, Sea-ports, Produce, Manufactures and Commerce, By A.F. BUSCHING, D.D. Profefibr of Philofophy in the Univerfity of Gottinge n, and Member of the Learned Society at Duisburg. Carefully Tranflated from the laft Edition of the German Original. To the Author's Introductory Difcourfe are added three Eßiys relative to the Subje&. Illuftrated with Thirty-fix Maps, accurately projected on a new Plan. IN SIX VOLUMES. V O L U M E the F I R S T. CONTAINING, Denmark, Norway, Greenland, Sweden» Russia and Poland. LONDON: Printed for A. Millar in the Strand. MDCCLXII. Annex Ca« i /It v,'i PREFACE. THE Author has divided this Syftem of Geography into four * volumes, and to every volume has prefixed a preface. In that to the firft he has given an account of the work in general ; and likewife of the method he purfued, and the fources from which he drew his materials. But as this Englifo edition does not confift of an equal number of volumes with the German original, and the countries defcribed are differently ar- ranged in fome of them, the Author's preface muft be adapted to the tranflation. I fhall therefore extract only fuch paffages as relate to the volume before us, and the work in general ; omitting fuch particulars as have an immediate relation to the firft German edition, and the manner of publishing it, which would fwell this preface to an immoderate length M. Bufchtng gives us the following account of his undertaking, &c. ' My defign is to give an accurate and ufeful Defcription of the Earth 4 as far as it is known, from the beft helps that could be procured on ' the fubjecl:. For this end, I was under an indifpenfable neceffity of * fetting about the Work, as if no Syftem of Geography had been extant * before. I am very fenfible that there are many treatifes of that nature * published : However, I could not implicitly depend upon, nor fafely copy ' after any of them ; but was obliged carefully to examine every particular, * and to have recourfe to the firft and beft fources. My predeceffors in ' this Science, indeed, generally copy from each other ; and fuch as have ' not copied from other Syftems of Geography, have tifed fuch helps as \ are univerfally known, and open to every one's perufal, if we except * fome few particulars. And it is evident they either had not, or could * not have recourfe to the beft fources ; or, which has generally been the * cafe, did not ufe them with a proper degree of care and impartiality. * It is to be obferved that each of thofe volumes contain two parts, fo that the four may more properly be confidered as eight. We thought it neceflary to mention this, left it fhouki be imagined that we have increafed the bulk of this work, uniieceflarily, for our own inrereJf. A 2 * Hence 850^>L«X iv PREFACE. Hence a perfon who has the lead: fkill in geography, or knowledge of the Terraqueous Globe, has reafon to complain, that the SylTems of Geo- graphy hitherto publifhed are of very little fervice. Theie were my motives for not blindly following my predeceilbrs who have written on this fubject ; on the contrary, I had recourfe to the fame originals from which they derived their materials, and hkewife to other fourccs which they could not have accefs to; or if they had, which they made no ufe -of. Now as I can truly aver, that I have neidier retailed, new- modelled, nor made the labours of my predeceilbrs on this ful ject the ground work of mine ; but proceeded as if no fuch books had been extant, and I myfelf had been the firff. who wrote on the fubject, I leave it to the determination of any competent judge, whether my Geography can admit of any improvement from the labours of former geographers ? At lead: when I compared their works with the Defcription which I had finiihed, I found nothing to add, which was either neceffary, or ufeful to be known. And if they happen to mention fome circutn- ftances, about which my helps were filent, I have fcrupled to admit fuch particulars into my account, and, 1 think, with reafon referved them for a future enquiry. This I look upon as the only means to bring Geography to a greater degree of perfection than it has hitherto acquired ; and I hope the Learned will allow that by this method 1 have laid a good foundation for it. I am well convinced that others who fhall write on this fubject after me, will, by experience, find what I have here ad- vanced to be true ; and it is my earned: requeft that they would; in the manner I have done, examine every particular as far as it is pofhble, without trufting to others. { The rules which I have obferved in the profeeution of diis work are- the very fame that I recommended as rules of conduct for a Geographer in §. 3. of the Introduction *. However, I muft add, that though I think, it both a neceffary and ufeful direction, with regard to any particular country, to follow the accounts written on the l'pot, as they generally exhibit a more accurate and juft defcription than any other geographical or topographical treatife extant, and are drawn from the proper iources : Yet it is always proper, in the ufe of fnch helps, to proceed with cir~ cumfpection, and, at the fame time, to join our own enquiries with them, For indance, in Szafzky's hitrodutlic in Orbis bcdicrni Gccgia- fbiam, there is nothing that can be of ufe to a Geographer but the chapter which treats of Hungary ; for that article, on account of th© care employed by the Author who was an Hungarian, may ferve for a fhort chorographical defcription ofthat Kingdom, and conlequently may be reckoned among the genuine fources of that part of Geography. * See page 7. 1 It PREFACE. ' It is my defign, that the Syflcm of Geography fhall be neither too fhort and concile, nor too tedious and circumftantial ; and I purpofe to bring together into one view the befb chorographical and topographical descriptions extant ; and to feledt many hiftorical and phyfical remarks and obfervations which are to be met with in a great number of printed books and manufcripts. I (hall alfo continue to carry on an extenfive correfpondence by Letters, not without a confiderable expence, with men of learning and politenefs in different parts of the world, in order to gain a more exact knowledge of the prefent genuine ftate of countries and places, than it is poffible to acquire frcm printed accounts. And indeed I have had the good fortune, hitherto, to find almoft every perfon to whom I applied for this purpofe, inclined to promote my defign ; befides fome hundreds who have voluntarily contributed to it. I have tranfmitted my original fketch to feveral places, in order to be improved and cor- rected. Befides, I apply to perfons of all ranks who are capable of being ferviceable to my defign, on whom I make modeft demands of affiftance ; and my travels have turned out to very good account, as they gave me an opportunity of making immediate enquiries and obfer- vations on the fpot in feveral kingdoms. 1 In defcribing the various countries in the known world I obferve the following method. In the firft place, I treat of their Polity or civil conftitution, in an authentic and concile manner, with impartiality and circumfpection. I have, with regard to the conftitution or form of go- vernment of feveral countries, had the good fortune, hitherto to pro- cure important and authentic accounts, and fuch as rarely fall into the hands of the Learned. Thofe who are competent judges in thele matters will rind them fcattered with no sparing hand in this firft volume. The plan I have laid down, and the neceilary caution and prudence to be obferved on thefe occaiions, forbid me to communicate any more of thofe anec- dotes to the Public. I have candidly pointed out all the advantages which» every country enjoys, or at leaft, fuch as have come to my knowledge ; and there is not a fingle country on the Globe which cannot boalt of fome peculiar advantages. It would be highly abfurd and blameable in a Geographer, to defpiie any country becaufe it has not fome particular' advantage or conveniency with which, perhaps, another region is bleflid. Such a writer pours contempt on the works of God, and the feveral do-- mains of his extenfive kingdom; and finds faults with Divine Providence, which deals out the good things and commodities of the Earth with- the moft confummate wifdom and benevolence, and imparts to every country what is indifpenfably neceffary for its inhabitants. I wholly avoid giving the characters of nations, it being not only a very difficult talk in itfelf, , but fuch general charaders are alfo, at beftj uncertain, and for the moft- part ill-grounded and partial. I refer to what 1 have written on this ' head- vi PREFACE. * 'head in §. 70. of the Introduction. As the extending and increafing of * commerce is now one of the principal objects which mod: nations have * in view, I have given an exact account of the prefent (late of trade ' in thofe countries where it flourifhes molt. The reader will find this * article, with regard to the Northern Countries, accurately defcrilxd in * this volume. 1 Next to the general account of the Polity of States and Kingdoms follows the particular geographical dekription of every country, in which I lay down the ufual political divilions into greater and fmaller diilricfs as the balls of it, including, at the fame time, the Eccleliaftical Polity of every country. I do not defignedly omit one natural or artificial curiofity that deferves notice in any place which I have defcribed : but touch on it at leaft, if I cannot give a circumftantial account of it. The principal cities and towns in every country I defcribe according to the ichnographical plans we have of them, and that pretty largely, as thev contain feveral things worthy of notice. I have not ufed the expref- fions, great, Jmall, handfome, eminent., inconjlderable, mean, Sec. indifferently or partially ; but employed them according to the Knowledge I had acquired of every particular place. I could wifh we had, in this refpect, a certain rule to go by ; but fuch a ffandard is difficult to be found. A town is large, handfome, and well-built ; or little, mean, and inconfider- able, only as confidered with refpect to other towns in the fame country ; but when compared with thofe of other countries, may deferve different epithets. For what is called a large and beautiful place, and really is fo in one kingdom, may be juftly called little and i;iconfiderable, or a place of no great note, in another. However, there are towns, &c. in every country, which may in general be called large and elegant. I have fet down the probable number of inhabitants in feveral countries and great cities, or inferted an account of their births and burials from the annual Bills of Mortality; but this could not be done for all. In de- fcribing others, I have alfo (hewn how the Names of places are properly pronounced, a neceffary information in a Syftem of Geography; but this I cannot pretend to have done in all in a fatisfactory manner. Upon the whole, I muff obferve that it is not poffible to defcribe every country with equal accuracy and authenticity, the fame helps, and vouchers of equal credit, cannot be procured for them all. My defcriptions, however, will be found tolerably uniform and of a piece in proportion to the extent and importance of the countries defcribed ; and what is ilill wanting in mv account of feveral places may poflibly be (upplied hereafter. ' To write a Syftem of Geography, or, in other words, to give a Defcription of the Earth, is a very difficult, laborious, and important talk, and requires the united efforts of whole Societies : what an ar- duous undertaking muft it then be for a lingle perfon ? I doubt, whe- ' thcr PREFACE. vü ther any one has beftowed more pains on the fubject, or treated with greater application and more unwearied diligence than myfelf; and this is the only merit I alTume. Whoever expects a perfect work of this kind, does not underftand wherein the perfection of it confirts. Thofe who are competent judges of the fubjecl will confider whether the whole performance is good in its kind ; for errors in fome particulars are unavoidable when we treat of a fubject that admits of gradual improvement. I hope I may without vanity call my Syftem of Geo- graphy newo and more perfecl than any book of the kind yet published j but I do not pretend to impofe it on the Public as a work abfolutely perfect in itfelf, being well apprized that a great number of additions and corrections are requilite to render it fueh, and confequently that it falls far fhort of perfection. 1 It was, at firft, my defign to annex to every volume fome critical obfervations on the books which I made ufe of in defcribing every country; but this I muft defer to fome other opportunity. In the In- troduction however, to the defcription of every State or Kingdom I fhall give a lift of moft if not of all the Authors of note who have treated of that country, and fet down the titles of the books, &c. * This firft volume begins with the Northern States of Europe. It has, indeed, been ufual for feveral years paft to begin books of Geography with Portugal : But that method was neither neceflary nor regular, and, probably, owes its origin to the following trifling circumftance. The map of Europe, in. order to aflift the memories of children, has been* reprefented under the figure of a Woman who was to be defcribed from head to foot; and therefore Geographers began with Portugal, which, was fuppofed to be the head-drefs of this imaginary Lady. On the con- trary, the Geographers of the fixteenth and the firft part of the feven- teenth century, as namely, Mercato, Ortclius, Hondius, JanJJoti, ccc. begini with the Northern parts of Europe. I have followed their example rather out of chance than defign; Providence having, for fome years,, placed me in thofe parts; and therefore I begin with the defcription of them. The Northern Parts have been, hitherto, generally the leaft regarded by foreigners, and defcribed with far lefs care and accuracy than the fputhern and weftern countries of Europe, though their im- portance and extent deferve more particular notice. For this reafon I have allowed the Northern kingdoms more room in my Syflem oi Geo- graphy than other Authors have clone in books on this fubject. Before - I enter on the defcription of thefe countries,. 1 have premifed fomething, by way of Introduction to every State, &c. 4 In the firft place, I have, fhewn the Utility of Geography;, and • particularly recommended the nece'Jity and ufefulnefs of this faience, as^ ' itferves to d'ifplay the power and wifdom of God, and promotes his glory.. vin PREFACE. 1 In the next, I have fubjoined a fhort Introduction to Geo- ' S ra P n y> ' n w ttkh I have given and explained the Definition of that t icience, taken notice of the maps drawn by the geographers of the ' ancient, middle, and modern ages ; and treated of the Mathematical and * Phvlkal part of Geography. In explaining thefe heads I have avoided ' prolixity as much a^ noiiible, and touched merely on fuch particulars, as ' ierve to facltrt&tfc and promote the ftudy of Geography; and confequently ' the reader ought previoully to be well acquainted with them. I hope too ' I may, at lead, be entitled to the approbation and thanks of many of < them, for having with great labour and affiduity collected the moft impor- i tant, ufeful, and entertaining accounts and obfervations, which, before, * lay fcattered in a great number of volumes. ' Laftly, I have treated pretty largely on the furrounding and intercur- i rent Seas in the feveral parts deicribed in each volume, and collected * the moft important remarks and obfervations that were to be met with ' concerning the nature and qualities of them. 4 Next to this comes a general view of Europe; and then follow the *• Kingdoms and States contained in it. Among thefe that of Denmark ' preients itfelf firfr. to the Reader's view. In defcribing this country, I ' had no account of it which had been taken on the fpot to ferve as the ' ground work of my defcription; but was obliged to defcribe it after a ' new method. My helps in print were the following ; ' Holberg's Hijlory of Denmark. ■ Pontoppidan's Eccleßaßical Hißory. 1 Theatrum et tmrmora Dancia felecliora. * Berutsen's Glory of Denmark and Norway in German. * Hermansen's Delicice regnorum Danice, Norwegia, 6cc. « Vernon's Relation a" un voyage J 'ait en Danamarc. ' The Danifh Vitruvius. ' The Danifh Library. ' Scripta Societatis Hafnienfis, bonis artibus promovendis dedita. « The Danifh Magazine. ' Thura's Idea Hißoria Literaria Danorum. ' Anchersan's Prejat. ad Fab. Geogra. fynopt. * The Religious State of Denmark and Norway. « Colonel Thura's Hafnia Hodierna. ' Re sen n Defer iptio Sainfoa. * Aagardi Defcriptio Otbhiia. 1 Obfervations on the Ißands of Faalfter and Laaland. « Ekickso's Defcription of the Village oj Viborg. * Terpager's Defcriptio Urbis Ripen/is. ( Dankwerth's New Chromgraphical Defcription of the Dutchies of « Slefwick and HoUlcin. West- PREFACE. c We stphalen's Monument a inedita rcrum Germanicarwn, precipue Cim- c brie arum, &c. * Noodt's Supplement to the hißory of the Dutehies of Slefvvick and Holftein. c Molleri Ifag. ad Hiß. Ducat. Slefwick and Holftein. ' Lass's Collection of the accounts of the towns of Hufum, c Kraften's Ecclefmflical and Literary Hißory of Hufum. ' Befides thefe authors, I have compared my account of Denmark, after c I had corrected and improved it, with Hubner's Large, and Small Syßem c of Geography, tranflated into Danijh. With regard to the Dutchy of ' Slefwick, I have made the fhort Defcription of it, which I published in ' 1752, the ground-work; but at the fame time, I new-modelled and greatly ' improved it. I have not only defcribed feveral parts of the Kingdom of ' Denmark from my own perfonal obfervations ; but was alfo favoured, in ' that article, beyond any of my predecelfors on this fubjecl, by the affiftaiKC c of feveral perfons of great abilities and dilti nguifhed characters. ' In defcribing Norway I confulted the following books. ' Clausson's, Wolf's, and Jonas Ramus's Defcriptions ofthat country. ' Pontoppidan's Natural Hi/lory of Norway *. 1 Muller's Defcription of the town of Tonlberg. * Schroder's Defcription of the town of Fredenckihald. 1 Holberg's Defcription of the town of Bergen. ' All thefe treatifes are written in the Danijh language. * The Defcription of the iflands of Faroe is almolt entirely taken from c Debes. In defcribing Iceland, I have made ufe of the following books. ' Arngrim JouAs'sChrimogtea. * Ol A vi 1 Enarrationes Hiß. de ?iatura & cojißitutione Ißandice. 1 Anderson's Defcription of Iceland, with that of Horrebow, who re- * futed the account given by the former. ' Thorlacii Dijfertatio de Ijlandia. Thorlacii (who was another ' writer of the fame name) Dijfertatio de ultimo month Heclce incendioi * Samundsen's Account of the eruption of Krabla, in Daniih. ' Laftly, in defcribing Ore enland I confulted Torf^ei Grönlandia dniiqua j ' Egede's Account of the rife and progrefs of the Greenland Mißion ; and The ' new Perlußration of ancient Greenland. I am like wife obliged to fome ' learned men for feveral hiftorical accounts relating to thefe countries. My * defcription of Iceland, I may venture to recommend as more accurate and 1 complete than any that was extant before. ' I have been enabled to acquaint the reader with many important parti- 1 culars concerning the conftitution of Sweden, which were hitherto but 1 little known. For the Geographical defcription of that Kingdom, I make * An elegant translation of this curious work was publifhed at London in 1755, by A. Linde. That beautiful edition is illustrated with copper-plates, and an accurate map of Nbnvay. Vol. I. a « Erich IX PREFACE. Erick Tuneld's excellent treatife, entitled The Geography of Sweden, my ground-work. Befides, I have borrowed many curious remarks from the following authors. * Bring de Etymo Suecia'. 1 Benzelius de Propagat. Rel Chriß. in Suecia. ' The Dcfcnption of Sweden, publificd at Ratitbon in 1 707. ' Robinson's Etat prefent de la Suede. * Loccenii Antiq. Sueco-Gothia. 4 Bring de comitiva Dignitate, prafertim in Sviogothia. ( Tlie Etiffertations of the Royal Academy of Sciences in Sweden. ' Stromwall's Dij/ertatio Apologetica contra fohannem Hubnerum. ' Harlemann's Travels through feveral provinces of' Sweden. ' Bring de Origine urbis antiques Sviogothia, & de Hallandia in genere. 1 Rydelius^" Blekingia. * Bring de Blekingia. ' Frondin de Helfitigia; 1 Serenius de Uplandia. * Bioerner de Stockholmia antiqua. ' Asp de Nycopia. ' Bronwell's Hifioria linqua Darlecarliee. * Hermansson de Prefeclura Naefgarde7ifi Dalecartia. ' Hagstrom's Defcription of the province of Jemtland. ■ Torn er de origine ac religione Fennonum. * Hart mann de primis initiis Biorneburgi. ' Outhier's Journal d'un voyage au Nord. * In my Defcription of Lapland I have confulted Peter Hogstrom's Defcription, compared with Scheffer's Lapponia and Scheller's Travels, as the ground-work. As Count DahlbeRg's pompous and valuable Work, entitled Suecia antiqua & hodiema, is fcarce, I have par- ticularifed thofe towns and caflles of which he has inferted draughts and perfpeclive views in his Suecia. ' Next follows the Russian Empire with all its ancient and new con- quered countries in Europe and Afia. I have given this vail Empire in one view, as it lies naturally connected ; and confequently have described, at the fame time, a considerable part of Aßa in this volume. As Geo- graphers have, hitherto given but very imperfect accounts of that power- ful Empire, my attempt may be confidcred as the firft effay towards an accurate and authentic defcription of it. In 1745* A compendious treatife of Political Geography was publifhed at Petersburg. That work gives a circumftantial defcription of the Ruffian Empire , but is extremely faulty and defective : However, it contains fome authentic hiftorical accounts. Befides that treatife, I have made ufe of the following books in defcribing Ingria, and Livonia, &c. < The PREFACE. ' The hißorical, political, and geographical Defcription of Sweden. c Kelchen's Hißory of Livonia. 1 Defcription de la Livonie. 1 Strubyczii brevis defer iptio Livonia. c The Chronicle of Livonia, publißed by Gruber and Arn-d. ' Jetzen's Account of the white hares in Livonia. 1 The Monument of Dorpat. c Peter von Haven's New Account of the Empire of Ruffia, written in ' Danifh, and improved. ( Weber's Ruffia metamorphofed. c A colleSlion of the Ruflian Hißory by Muller and Bayer. ' Martini's Account of Ruffia. c The Mofcovite Letters, as they are called, with remarks. The text is in many places erroneous and abfurd, and the remarks are not to be depended on. ' Hegelmayer's Impartial Account of the fever al remarkable thintrs in Ruffia. * 1 Strahlenberg's Northern and Eaß em parts of Europe WAfia. • Gmelin's Flora Siberica, and his Travels through Siberia, with his re- marks on L' Hiftoire genealogique des Tartars. ' The prefent fate of Ruffia written by Salmon, and published with great alterations by Reichard, may very well fupply the place of Weber, Haven's, Travels in Ruffia, Strahlenberg, Martini, and the Collection of Ruffian hißorical pieces ; as the fubftance of them is to be found in Reichard's performance ; but of this I made no ufe in my defcription of Ruffia. During my flay at Peterßurg, I colleded feveral good accounts of the Empire of Rußia, and made proper enquiries into many particu- lars myfelf. The Rujian Imperial Academy alio caufed my delcription of that Empire to be carefully revifed and improved by profefTor Müller. My fhort Introduction to Rußia contains a more accurate, juft, authen- tic, and impartial account of the conftitution of that Empire than many other voluminous works. 1 I come in the next place to the Kingdom of Prussia ; and in deferr- ing this country, Bock's Introduction to the fate of Pruffia ; Pruffia dif- played ; the ASla Borußica, and the Remarkables of Pruffia; have been of greater fervice to me than Abel's political Geography of Pruffia and Brandenburg, with its continuation. 1 have myfelf made feveral obferva- tions in my travels through P rußia ; and a learned Prußian alio fent me authentic accounts of Prufia and the Great Dutchy of Lithuania, for which I take this opportunity of making a due acknowlegement. 1 After Prufia, I defcribe Poland and Lithuania, and for that pur- pofe, I confulted the following books. a 2 « Gabriel XI Xll PREFACE. 1 Gabriel Rzaczynski's Hifioria naturalis curio/a regni Polcnia. * Pis tori i Corpus Hiß or i a Polonica. 4 Cromer's Defcription of the Kingdom of Poland. f Staravolsci Polonia. ' Cafim. Aloys. Holowka's Compendium Geographica. 1 Cellarii Defcript. Regni Polonia. ' IIartknoch de re public a Polona. ' Lengnich de jure publico regni Poloni. * Pacta Conventa Augußi tertii cum Lengnichi Comment ario. ' Krzistanowitz's Curious Defcription of the Kingdom of Poland. ' Dughß; Hijhria Pel men. * Lengnich's Polifh Hißory. * Danozki's Lexicon of the learned men now living in Poland, &c. 4 With Poland I have connected the defcription of Poliß] Prußa, which I look upon as a far more juft and commodious method, than the common way of defcribing it with the Kingdom of Prußa ; for, at prefent, it has no manner of connection with the latter. My helps in this part were as follows. 4 Lengnich's Hißory of Regal or Polifh Pruffia. 4 'The P ruffian Collection of Records, and manufcript accounts which have never been published. ' Hartwich's Defcription of the three Werders lying in Polifh Pruffia. 4 Cell ar ii Defcriptio regni Polonia, & Privilegium civitatum minorum Pruffia ocei dent alls y comment ario illußratum. 4 My own obfervation and experience have alfo fupptied me with feveral ufeful hints in defcribing this country. ' Laftly, under the article of Poland, I have defcribed the Dutchies of Courland and Semigallia. I am perfuaded that the defcription I have given of thele countries will fufficiently recommend itfelf to all impartial judges, as a new, authentic, and accurate account. The true ftateof this country is, at prefent, but little known. In my journey through Courland, I care- fully informed myfelf about its conftitution from perfons of great fkill and political knowledge ; and likewife made ufe of the following printed accounts. 4 Nettelbatt's Faßt r cuius Rerum Curlandia. ' The fame author's Anccdota Curlandia, and ' His Treatife which clearly (hews the right of electing a Duke to be derived to the Courlanders from their anceftors. 4 Privilegia & Jura pracipua ducat. Curlandia & Scmiga/Jia, befides other public a<5ts. 4 Tetsch&'s Effay toxvards an eccleßaßical Hißory of Courland. 4 Defcription de la Livonie, which alfo treats of Courland. 4 The Life of Erne/t John, Duke of Courland. j " 'The P R F. 1 A C E. ' The port geographical account of the Dutchics of Courland and Semigallia, inserted in The Cofmographical Accounts and collcSfions for the year 1748. * Hartnoch's Differtatio de Curonum & Sewigal. Republ. 1 I thought myfelf obliged to point out thefe authors as vouchers of tli« truth or credibility of my accounts of thcfe different countries ; and I found it as difficult to procure them, as it was laborious and irkfome to perufe them all. From this the candid reader may form fome idea of the dif- ficulty of this undertaking ; which will appear ftill more arduous, when he has carefully perufed this work.' Xlll C O N CONTENTS T O T H E First Volume, Of the UTILITY of G E O G R A P H Y. page i INTRODUCTION to GEOGRAPHY, CHAP. I CHAP. III. OF Geography in general, page 6 Of the Natural State of the Earth, or Phylical Geography, page 36 CHAP. II. Of me Earth's Atmofphere ibid. Of the Earth in general 3 9 Of Mathematical Geography 12 Of the Water 49 A NEW SYSTEM of GEOGRAPHY. Of Europe in general 57 Of the Seas, by which the countries defcribed in this volume are en- compafTed, or feparated from each other 59 DENMARK. Introdudion Seeland 67 84 Wiborg Aarhuus 129 *3i Funen North Jutland 114 123 Ripen Slefwick. 136 142 NOR WAY. Introdudion 171 Norwegian ifiands 212 Chrimana ]8 4 Faroe ibid. Chriflianfand Bergen Drontheirr* '93 j 97 201 Iceland Greenland 2I 5 231 The CONTENTS. The K I N G D O M of SWEDEN. Haifingland Introduction page 249 Gothland 2 73 Eaft Gothland 274 Srnaland 278 Oeland 283 Gottland 284 Weft Gothland 286 Warmeland 293 Thai-land 295 Bohus-Lehn 296 South-Gothland 299 Schonen ibid. Halland 3°4 Blekingen 306 Sweden, properly fo called, 3°9 Upland ibid. Sudermannland 3*9 Nerike 323 Weftmannland 324 Swedim Thal-land 327 Nordland .33° Gaftrickland ibid. Mcdelpad Jamtland Ilarjedalen Angermannland Weft-Bottn Lapland Jamtland-Lapmark Afele-Lapmark Umea-Lapmark Pite-Lapmark Lulea-Lapmark Tornea-Lapmark Kiemi-Lapmark Finnland Finnland, properly fo Aland Eaft-Bothnia Tawaftland Nyland Sawolax Kymmenegards-Lehn called, P 3 8 e 33 r 333 334 33 6 337 338 34' 355 35 6 357 35« ibid. 359 360 361 3 6 3 366 ibid. 3 6 9 37° 372 ibid. The RUSSIAN EMPIRE. Introduction 377 European part of the Ruffian Em- pire Livonia 411 414 Riga Reval Narva Ingermannland 422 425 427 428 Wiburg Nowogrod Archangel Mofcow 441 443 44° 45° JNilhnei-Novogrod 45 6 Smolenfk 457 Kiew 458 Bielogorod 464 Woronefh 466 Afiatic part of the Ruffian Empire 469 Ruffian Tartary 475 Aftracan 477 Orenburg 479 Kafan 480 Siberia 483 Tobolfk 501 Yenifei 5 1 1 Irk utile 517 PRUSSIA. C ON T E.N T -S. P R U I A. Introduclion Konigfberg German Samland page 527 538 544 Little Lithuania Polifh Governments Oletzko P a ge 55* 562 ibid. Old Natangen Oberland 548 553 Rhein Johannefberg 5 6 3 5 6 4 POLAND, LITHUANIA, POLISH PRUSSIA, and CO URL AND. Introduction 5 6 7 Great Poland 588 Cujavia 592 Mafovia 594 Polifh Pruffia 597 Little Poland . ibid. Cracow ibid. Podlachia 606 Red Ruffia 607 Podolia 610 Kiow 612 Volhinia ibid. Lithuania 614 Lithuanian Ruffia 620 Woiewodztwo Inflantfkie 624 Zmuyds 625 Polish Prussia 626 Pomerellia 632 Culm 638 Marienburg 647 Ermeland 652 Courland 654 Courland, properly fo called, 662 Semigallia 664 Pilten 666 O F [ xvii ] ENQUIRIES and CONJECTURES CONCERNING MEASURES of LENGTH. i . f"l ~~^ H E Meafures cf Length, on which all others depend, were, for want of a more fixt ftandard, taken from the human body : as the denominations of Fathom, Pace, Cubit, Foot, Span and Digit, evidently (hew. Multiples of thefe make the higher denominations of Stadia and Miles ; and grains of Barley and Wheat, or Hairs-breadths, were ufed for their fubdivilions. 2. In the Eaftern Nations, the firft feats of arts and magnificence, even in the ante-diluvian age *, their ftandard meafure was a Cubit. In Greece, Italy, and other wefrern countries, where racing and manly exercifes were more cultivated, a Foot, with its multiples and aliquot parts, were found the moft convenient meafures. But a Foot not being an aliquot part of a Cubit, wherever the one was the Standard, the other was in a manner excluded as a Meafure. And this feems to have been one great fource of the diverfity we lind in the ancient meafures, or rather in the accounts authors give of them. The natural ftandard of a Cubit, or of a Foot, would every where be nearly the fame, if fome Angular affectation or caprice did not interfere ; the dimenfions of Egyptian mummies, and of their repofitories, fhewing the human ftature to have continued much the fame from the earlieft ages. But when authors give us eaftern meafures in the language of the weft, or the contrary, we may generally fufpect fome inaccuracy in the reduction of the one to the other: the Greek and Latin writers commonly calling 4 of a Foot, a Cubit, which in its natural dimenfion is really - f of a Foot -j- ; and, thence, the natural cubit being to the nominal as fix to five, greater by 4 of the former, or by , ! T of a foot. • Gen. VI. 15. f Sir Kaac Newton on the facred cubit. Vol. I. b -.A xviii E N QU I R I E S ^/CONJECTURES 3. A greater variety dill arofe from both ftandards being admitted together ; as happened among the Arabs. A Cubit was their original local flandard ; the Foot, Stadium, and Mile, they took from the Greeks and Romans : and thefe, mixed and combined, produced the different estimates they give of the fame diftances, and four, if not Jive/2, different forts of Cubits. * Yet this variety, as well as the proportions of fome of thofe cubits to one another, may be partly accounted for from the oriental curtom of a Royal Cubit, exceeding the mean cubit by three digits -f ; and from the commercial or nundinary meafures being, for the mod: part, lefs than the mean, not only in the Eaß, but every where elfe. The former probably had its name from being the meafure, which defpotic Princes exacted in the conff.ruc~f.ion of their buildings and public works ; while a cubit fome- what fhort of the mean was allowed of in private bargains, and when fkilful artifts were to be paid for their labour. From thefe two confiderations, but efpecially from the natural propor- tion of the Cubit and Foot, we may form fome confident notion of the ancient meafures, the changes they have undergone, and their relations to one another, as well as to the principal ftandards of modern times. As for the fccondary and provincial meafures ufed in different dates or cities, or in the feveral provinces of the fame country, it were endlefs to enumerate them, and impofiible to account for differences arifing from fo many different caufes ; from accident, perhaps, or defign, from the indolence of magiflrates, the errors or caprice of artifts, the gradual alterations of time, from fraud, exaSiion, or policy, and even from the qualify of the fubjefis meafured. Nor does fuch diverfity of weights and meafures much difturb the ordinary courfe of commerce ; although it were to be wifhed that a greater uniformity could be eftablifhed, at leait among all the fubjects of the fame Prince. Merchants can always compare their own meafures with thofe of foreign nations ; and are not often miftaken in valumg the precious metals, or in the juft par of exchange. 4. In the fciences, the cafe is very different; in Geography, Aßronomy y and I in all Phyfical enquiries: which cannot be managed, or even under- ftood, without more exact rules of actual menfuration than either vulgar ufe requires, or the ancients could attain ; in a word, without fome Jixed univerfal & d, to which every obfervation and experiment may be referred. And fuch a Standard only thofe fciences tbemfelves could furnifh : The ;/' a pendulum baiting feconds at a particular place, as London or Paris; or, The length of a degree of Jörne tcrrejlrial meridian, meafured at * See Mr. Bernard de menfuris veterum, and the authors by him quoted, f ILrodct. Clio. Cmccnibi? MEASURES e/LENGTE xix a particular latitude. Thefe may always be compared with each other, and every other meafure of length with either of them. 5. If Eratofihenes, Pofidonius, Marinus Tyrius, or Ptolemy had meafurcd an arc of the meridian in Stadia, with the fame care and fuccefs as tl French mathematicians have done in Toifis, we could compare their meafures to the modern with great certainty. But we find no operation of this ! which can be depended on, till the revival of Aftronomy under the Gait} ' when Almamon ordered fome fkilful mathematicians to meafure a degree in the plain of Singara in Mejbpotamia. From their determination indi founded on an actual furvey, with the difference of latitude carefully taken, we may not only fix the proportion of their Joot-mcafure to ours, but form a probable conjecture concerning the Standard ufed in Greece, and the derivation of the other principal Standards, the Roman, French and Englijh from it. For it feems realbnable to fuppofe, and his been ad- mitted by the beft writers on this fubject, " That a nation fubduing, or " fettling in, another more polifhed and civilized than themfelvcs, will " learn their arts, and adopt their cuftoms; as a more civilized nation will " introduce good regulations where there might be none before." Now the Athenian weights and meafures had been fixed by an exprefs law to the Standards firft eftablifhed by Solon * : and thefe were the prin- cipal ftandards in Greece, in their Ißands and Colonies, and in the neigh- bouring countries of Afia Minor. They were probably adopted by the later poffeffors of thofe countries, the Arabs : and it will appear presently that the foot meafure of the Arabs, was exactly, or very near, the fame as the Pied du Roi, or ftandard foot of Paris. How the one or the other may have been brought into France we may eafily imagine : the colony of MarJetUes might introduce the Grecian meafures ; -j- or, if that date is thought too ancient, why might they not be borrowed from the Eafi, at fecond hand, in the time of the Croifadcs. 6. The aftronomers commiflioned by Almamon found a degree of the earth's meridian to contain 564 miles of 4000 cubits, or 6000 feet, each %. The degree therefore was 56666 ^ Arabian fathoms or Toijes ; and if we fuppofe thefe equal to French Toijes, the error of their operations was only ^ib-Toifes, which their degree wants of 57183, the degree of M. Picarf, corrected; and this-the earth being Spherical. But if it is a Spheroid, whefe axis is to the equatorial diameter as 230 to 231, the Arabians meafuring their degree at 49% latitude inftcad of about 34 , mult have given it 56860 toifes; and the difference would now * Anikcidis Orat. apud Budaeum de Affe. Lib. v. f Strabo informs us that the Gauls owed their learning and the arts of civil life to the academy of Marfeilles ; whofe high reputation, in his time, drew the Roman youth to ftudy there, infiead of going to Athens, Geogr. Book IV. and their form of government feems to have been the model of feveral Ariftocracies, afterwards eftablifhed in Europe. X Bernard de Menf. Vett. b 2 be xx ENQJJIRIES and CONJECTURES be reduced to 323 toifes, anfwering to an angle of about \ of one minute of a degree. Which error being of the quantity that might be expected from the fkill of the artifts on the one hand, and the difficulty of their tafk on the other, we may conclude the Arabian Meafures of Length to have been very nearly if not altogether the fame as the French. 7. There are two other Arabian meafurements mentioned by their writers *. In one, the degree is found to be 68 miles, agreeing with the former determination of 564 miles : only that in the one a mile is 5000 feet, according to the Roman way of reckoning; in the other it was 6000 : thefe numbers being reciprocally as 68 and 564. An agreement fo very precife that one would fufpect it was not owing to an actual men- furation of the fixty-eight miles. In another Arabian eftimate of a degree of the terreftrial meridian, it is faid to contain 66} miles ; and this like wife will nearly coincide with the former determination, if we can fuppofe the authors of this laft to have imagined they could compenfate the Shortening their mile one fixth part, by lengthening: their foot meafure a fixth part. For L-x-5- or — I = — ': or^ * 00 * 6 6 36 GS 6 56^ = 667. Suppofing this, if we take a- mean between 664 miles and 66f (thus deduced from the 56 1 miles) the mean length of a degree, ac- cording to the Arabians, will want but feventy two toifes of the quantity affi^ned to it bv the French : the earth being a homogeneous Spheroid. And if we compute upon the 664 miles alone, they will give to the degree 57379 toifes ; exceeding M. Picart's degree by 196 toifes, and Mr. Norwood's by 79. In any cafe, fuppofing the operations of the Arabian aftronomers to have been performed with due care, which their near coincidence may well juftify, it follows that the difference, if any, between the Arabian and French foot is too fmall to be by any means verified or determined. 8. This is further confirmed by the meafurement of -f Femelius, giving to the degree new Paris 68.095 miles French meafure, or 56746 toifes ; lefs than what the aftronomers of Ahnamon would have made it by between 120 and 130 toifes. Father % Riccioli, indeed, fufpects this determination, as if Femelius had accommodated it to the numbers of the Arabians: but the fufpicion is groundlefs, that author having very fairly defcribed his method of proceeding, and his meafure having been verified by all the fubfequent furveys. The truth is, Riccioli was not aware of the equality of the Arabian and French meafures of length ; and wanted chiefly to eftahlhh the refult of his own enquiries. 9. The'Rcman foot, copied probably, with other Athenian inftitutions, by the Decemviri ||, might, originally, be the fame as the Attic : but it was afterwards, whether designedly or by a gradual alteration, diminifhed in the sward. \ See his Cofn :| Almageß. || Liv, III. 31. ratio Concerning MEASURES «/LENGTH. xxi ratio of 25 to 24, or near half an inch; Cenforhnts * informing us that they gave 625 feet to the Stadium., which contained but 600 feet Attic mea- fure; and Polybius, in Strabo -(-, fays they reckoned 8f Stadia to the mile-, which comes to the fame thing : 8f multiplied into 600 being the fame as 8 into 625. Their mile was 8 ftadia of 600 Attic feet, and is always fo rated in Pliny and other ancient writers ; but uiing their own foot mea- fure, they found there wanted f of a ftadium of 600 feet to complete the mile. 10. This foot feems to have been the more general ftandard of the Roman Itinerary meafures. But the architects and artificers, in imitation of the Greeks, ufed one fornewhat lefs ; which from antient monuments, and from fome ftandards that have been preferved in metal, is to the Englijh foot, as 967 to 1000 : others fays as 970 to 1000. That is, the Englijh foot exceeds the leffer Roman by -xV or by half a digit ; for 3 1 is to 32 as 9684 to 1000. And indeed, excepting as far as accident or inaccuracy may have inter- vened, we mall generally find the. differences of meafures to proceed by the fifnpleß fractions of a digit, or of an inch, that is by bisection, fome'times combined with triJecJion. 11. The Pa/mo of 9 inches, or -I- of a foot, ufed by the modern Roman architects, is taken from this Standard, but fornewhat increafed. M. Auzout X found it in proportion to the Paris foot as 988^ to 1440 ; and the Paris foot being to the Englißj as 114 to 107, the Engiißi foot will exceed the foot whereof the modern Pa/mo is \ by no more than V. ; whereas it exceeds the foot of the ancient architects by T ' T ; the difference of thefe being -i4ö of a foot Engliß, or r\ of an inch of the ancient foot of the Roman artificers- 12. The Roman foot feems to have varied occafionally ; as indeed they were not over exact in fuch matters, efpecially in their itinerary meafures |f. The Rhinland foot taken from the remains of a Roman foot in Germany, and which Scaliger and Snellius held to be the true ftandard, is to the Engiißi as 1033 to 1000. And thence the Englijh foot is an arithmetical mean between it, and the foot of the ancient architects : 967. 1000. 1033. 13. The celebrated Peirefc 4- had, in his collection, weights of 1, 3, 10, 30 Roman pounds, which,, compared very carefully with ftandard weights fent him from Paris, gave 10 Paris ounces nearly equal to twelve Roman. And if the French and Roman weights and meafures of capacity, bore a like analogy to their meafures of length, the Paris foot will be to that upon which the Roman ounce was adiufted as the cube root of 12 to the like root of 10, or as 17 to 16; exceeding it by one digit: * De die riatati, cap. 13. -;■ Lib. VII. p. 322. J Bernard, p. 20 r. E Sec the inftances given by Ctißni in . 1 dt I'cu id I Gajjhid. in Vita, p. 1 and xxii E x\ T QJJ I It I E S and C O NJE CTURES and the Paris foot exceeding the Englijh by much the fame difference, that Roman foot muft have been nearly equal to the RngUjh. Gajfcndus indeed, who gives us this account, tells us that from his own experiments on the contents of Vefpafians Congius preferved in the Capitol, he found 120 Roman ounces equal to iu^ Paris ounces: whence it would follow that the foot upon which the Congius was fafhioned wanted but -+V of the foot of Paris. But fuch experiments are (o flippery, and the conclufions which different authors have drawn from the contents of this Congius are fo various, that they are not much to be depended on : efpecially as the proportions of the Roman and Eugiiß meafures to the French, which Gajfendus deduces from the fame fource, are certainly none of the exadeft. We may fee however, in general, it was intended that this veiTel fhould contain the eighth part of a cubic foot ; and that the foot by which it was made was not much different from the ancient Roman foot. But Mr. Greaves, by weighing many ancient well preferved coins, found the Attic Drachm, which is the hundredth part of an Attic Mina, to be to the Roman Denarius or the eighty-fourth part of the Roman Libra, as 67 to 62 *. The weight of the former being at a medium 67 grains, or silo of a pound Troy ; and that of the latter 62 grains. Hence the Roman Libra is to the pound Troy as 217 to 240 j and the linear meafures analogous to thefe weights are as the cube roots of 217 and 240, that is as 969! to 1000, nearly as 30 to 31. Or, allowing about f of a grain which Mr. Greaves's denarii may have loft of their juft weight ; the cube roots, or the meafures proportional to them, will be exactly as 31 to 32 ; as the foot of the Architects to the ftandard foot of England. The foot of the Roman architects therefore was the fame which they ufed in their mint. Again, the Attic Mina is by Mr. Greaves 's experiments to the pound Troy as 335 to 288. And the pes monetalis ~f of Athens to a foot Engliflo nearly as 20 to 19, in a ratio lefs than of 114 to 107, which we gave for that of the Attic foot to ours ; and therefore we muft either conclude this ratio to have been affumed too great ; or, which is more probable, that the Attic foot ufed in their mint was lefs than their itinerary foot ; the difference being about T ' v > or 7 of a digit ; allowing fomewhat for the wear of the coins. 14. The foot of Bologna is to the Englißj as 1686 to 1350, accord- ing to the Abbe Picart %, or as 1.249 t0 lm And Riccioli makes the fame foot to the Roman as 5 to 4. He finds likewile the diftance " See his treatife on the Dcnari . ■\ This epithet is found in Hyginus, and is underftood by the commentators to arife from the divifion of a foot, as of the As (and every other integer J into Undo:: but I fhould rather translate it, the Standard foot of the mint. I Mefurt dt la Tan. between Concerning MEASURES of LENGTH. xxiii between Bologna and Modena, which, in the Itinerary, is always marked 25 miles, to be 20 miles Bolognefe meafure, inverfely as 4 and 5. And therefore the Roman foot, by which that diftance was mcafured, is very nearly the fame as the Englijh. If Riccioli's diftance is more ftridtly 194 miles, that Roman foot will want of the Englijh about Vt or £ of a digit. 1 5. The diftance from London to Verulam, by the itinerary, is 2 1 miles ; the fame diftance meafured * is 20.37 m '^ es of 5°°° ^ eet Englißj. Whence this Itinerary foot was lefs than the Englißj by s\-, or half a digit. But perhaps the terms from which thefe diftances were anciently - reckoned are not very well afcertained. 16. The mole which joined the Pharos at Alexandria to the main land is, in Strabo and Ammianus, 7 Stadia, which Cafar -f values at 900 paces, or 4500 feet. Whence the Roman foot is to the Alexandrian as 42 to 45 fhorter by t\ of the former. But if we fuppofe this Alexandrian foot to have been the fame as the Attic, the 7 Stadia will make 4375 Roman itinerary feet, which are to 4500 as 35. 1036. The foot there- fore by which Cafar meafured is fhorter than the itinerary foot of Strabo and Cenjbrinus in the fame proportion. And thus we may underftand him in his defcriptions of bridges, encampments, lines, and military engines. 17. From thefe, and many other examples that might be given, it appears how various the Roman meafures of length have been ; efpecially under the Emperors, and in the decline of the Empire. But all thofe variations are confined within the limits of the ancient Itinerary foot, and that of the Ar- chitects, to the fpace of about t of an inch ; fo that we may always make a near enough eftimate of the diftances which occur in the Roman hiftory and geography : obferving only not to truft too much to the Itineraries without fome collateral proof. 18. Let us now fuppofe the Attic foot equal to that of Paris, and either of them to be I- of the true Cubit ufed in the Eaftern Nations, and the con- fequences will perhaps juftify our fuppofition. The Roman Itinerary foot being to the Attic as 24 to 25, and this to the Englilh as 114 to 107; the Itinerary foot will be to the Englißj nearly as 45 to 44, greater by a little more than 4 of an inch. And the Englißj foot being to the leffer Roman as 32 to 3 1, the Roman Itinerary foot will be to this laft nearly as 19 to 18 ; that is, nearly as the pes monetalis of Athens to the Eng/ißj, fee §. 13. Where it is remarkable that thefe numbers are nearly in the inverfe ratio of 5000, the number of feet in a Roman mile, to 5280, the feet Englijh in a Statute mile. Anciently the inhabitants of Britain had no other way of marking the diftances of places but what had been common to all nations, which is ftili ufed in Germany, and every where in fpeaking of fea-voyages ; namely, by * Bernard, pag. 133. | de Bello Civil», Lib. III. fub finem. tfa xxiv ENQUIRIES and CONJECTURES time of travelling or _ failing jrom the one to the other. They probably took the Extent, as well as the Name of a Mile, juft as the Romans gave it them : nut having at the fame time adopted the lefler Roman foot for their common Standard, they found about 5280 fuch feet in the mile. And when, after- wards, the length of a mile came to be fixed by Statute, the fame number of feet was retained, although the foot itfelf was now increafed in the Ratio of 31 to 32. By which means, although the number of feet in our Statute mile exceeds the number of feet in the Roman mile, in the fame proportion as the Itinerary foot exceeds that of the ancient Architects, yet the Extent of our mile is to the Roman mile only as 32 to 31 ; as our foot is to the foot of the Architects. Half a quarter of this mile is a Stadium, or furlong, +'„ of which is a Perch of 16 \ feet, or 5 4- yards. 1 9. Mr. Greaves * fays he found the fide of the fquare bafis of the great Egyptian pyramid to be 693 feet Englifi; and the fide of the fquare fpace which terminates it a-top 13.28 feet. From thefe, compared with the dimenfions taken within the pyramid by the fame gentleman, and giving to the fide of the bafe 400 cubits, Sir Ifaac Newton concludes the cubit of Memphis, according to which the pyramid was built, to have been nearly I. 73 of a foot Engliß. And ■£ of this being 14, the Memphitic foot (if they had ufed that meafure) would have wanted but half an inch of our foot j that is, their cubit was the Cubit of a Man; taken from his mean ftature, 5 foot 9 inches Englifi -f-. The fide of the fame bale is, in Diodorus, 700 feet ; wanting of $ of 400, only 20 feet. The fame diftance Strabo makes lefs than a Stadium, of 600 Grecian feet. That is, his reduction proceeds upon the fuppofition that a Cubit is to a Foot as 3 to 2; and (which is true) that the foot of Memphis was lefs than the Attic. In Herodotus the fide of the bafe is 800 feet; with him, the cubit of Memphis (like that of Babylon) makes two feet; or having actually meafured by the ftandard of his own foot, he might find that number. Pliny extendi it to 883 feet. But from what author he copied this is uncertain, as he names no fewer than twelve who had written on the fub- iect of the pyramids. Mr. Greaves fufpects the paflage in Pliny to have been corrupted: the area of the bafe being, there, no more than 8 jugera-, whereas, if the fide is 883, it wants not much of 28. But Pliny might perhaps take the linear dimenfions from one auihor, and the fuperficial from another; without examining whether they were confident. ' ' e his Pyramidography, and the authorities there quoted. f It happens that the mean cubit (1.732) is to the foot Englifh (1) as the fide of an equi- lateral 1 the fc imetcr of the circumfcribed circle, nearly. However ENQUIRIES and CONJECTURES xxv However this be, a foot, which fiiould be to the Engl/jh foot as 693 to 883, certainly falls too far ihort of the natural ftandard. And the number 883 either comes from an author who had never feen the pyramid, and wanted to magnify its dimenfions ; or, fome author having given that num- ber of feet for the longeft line that could be drawn in the bale, from angle to angle, Pliny might underftand him to mean the length of the fide. For if the fide is taken to be a Stadium of 625 Roman feet, the diagonal will be 883.88. 20. Sir Ijaac Newton, from a paffage in Purchase travels, deduces a Baby- lonian cubit equal to two feet Englijh. This was of the cubits called Royal, v of it being 1 ,' of an Englifl foot. And from feveral authorities mentioned by Dr. Bernard and Sir'ljaac, ]oooo cubits of the Eaß are held equal to 18000 Attic feet: the Attic foot therefore is \ ofthat cubit. And putting the Attic foot equal to the Pied du Roi, which is ]{i of a foot Englijh, the cubit of the Eaß will be to this laft as 1026 to 535, nearly the double: that is, nearly as was found from Mr. Allen's meafures in Purchas. 2i. Pliny, in Book VI. Ch. 26. writes thus of Babylon : " Chaldaicarum " gentium caput diu fummam claritatem obtinuit in toto Orbe, propter " quam reliqua pars Mefopotamia; Affyriajque Babylonia appeilata eft, fex- " aginta miliia pafTuurri amplexa muris, ducenos pedes altis, quinquaginta " latis, in fmgulos pedes term's digitis menfura ampliore quam noßra." This paffage may admit of two different meanings. I. The Babylonian foot being \\ of the Roman, and the cubit being | of the foot; the Babylonian cubit will be to Pliny's foot as 171 to 80, more than its double; which feems too great a proportion in a building of fuch antiquity : for in the fir ft ages, the deviations from the ftandard of nature were not exceflive ; as we have feen in the inftance of the pyramid. Or, 2. If Pliny according to the inaccurate eflimate of his country, by a Babylonian foot meant not 4 but 4 of the Babylonian cubit ; then - r x I or ': being nearly equal to tt, we may reckon the difference he makes between the Babylonian foot and the Roman, to arife chiefly from the difference be- tween the Natural and Nominal Ratios of the foot and cubit. Thus, fup- pofe Pliny to have learned from one of his authors, that the wall of Baby- lon was 200 Roman feet high, which in his way of reckoning make 133 t cubits ; and to have been afi'ured by another that its heighth was 1 1 1 t cu- bits ; he might eafily be led to think the Babylonian cubit (and foot) to be to the Roman as 133 ', to 1 1 1 t, or as 6 to q, nearly as 19 to 16, 22. But indeed, with refpecl to the meafures anciently ufed in the eaft, our data are fo few, and fo uncertain, that no very pofiiive coricluGon can be drawn from them. Strabo in his XI and in his XVII Book tells us, that when he failed up the Nile, the length of the Egyptian Schmitts varied at every town he pafs'd ; a greater number of Schani often giving a lets Vol. I. c diftance, xxvi E N QU I R I E S ^CONJECTURES diftance, and the contrary. And Pliny * informs us that, though Eratof- tbenes gave 40 Stadia to that meafure, others reckoned only 32. The cafe was the fame with the Parajang of Perfia, which was rated at from 30 to 60 Stadia *. But the value of the one and the other was, by the moft ancient and authentic account of Herodotus, 30 Stadia of Greece, making, as was faid above, the Attic foot equal to | of the eaftern cubit. 23. How various the meafures of length have been in the eaftern nations appears likewife from the different Cubits in ufe, at one time or other, among the Arabians ; moft of which probably had the authority of fome ancient example, or were founded in fome rule, fuch as it might happen to be: the Archetype of all, being no doubt, the fame in the Eafl and Weß; the human Body, of a ftature above the common ; yet not gigantic, even for the larger meafures. For, if ex pede, or, ex menfura pedali Hercukm, he muft have been about \% of 6 Englifh feet high, or 6 feet, 4 i inches. Such was the foot which feems to have been moft univerfally ufed in the ancient Geographical meafures. In other cafes, a foot approaching more to the mean natural length was fubftituted for it: fuch as the leffer-Greek, the Ro- man, and Engliß) are ; being of more convenient and ready ufe in bufinefs* The foot of a full grown man was then nearly of that length, bearing a greater proportion to his ftature than now when it is crampt by modern fafhions : as we may fee in the beft antique ftatues and fculptures, and in the paintings which have been done in that tafte. 24. The Arabs having, at their fir ft fettling in the lefler Afia, accuftomed themfelves to reckon by Feet, and by Cubits of ~ of a foot, found afterwards that their cubit was thus ihortened of its due length. And that, even when they had corrected this by increafing it in the ratio of 5 to 6, it ftill wanted of fome ancient ftandards of the Eaft, they increafed it farther in the ratio of 14 to 15. All this was very well. But if, inftead of thus increafing their firjl cubit, which was 4 of an Attic foot, their fucceffors came, by whatever means, to increafe the Attic foot itfelf in the fame ratio, there would then be produced meafures exceeding their jaft dimenlions as 9 exceeds 7. Such the Hafemcean cubit, in Dr. Bernard pag. 218, feems to have been. From an Arabian Author by him quoted, the heighth of S. Sophia from the cupola to the ground is 78 Hafemcean cubits, ~ of which is 140.4 Ha- ,./•;.' feet: and the fame heighth, according to Evagrius, is 180 Grecian feet. The Hafemcean meafures therefore are to the Grecian as 9 to 7. Put the meafures of Greece to the Engliß) as 1 14 to 107, and the heighth of S. Sophia will be 192 feet Engliß. Now there is preferved in an Arabian MS. at Oxford, a draught of the Hafemcean cubit, which is 28.9 inches Engliß) : whence the Hafemcean cubit is to the Engliß) foot as 2 to ij and 2 -,Vv into 78 is 187 \l ; wanting but 4 4v of the 192 feet Eng- j which difference, making a reafonable allowance for the Shrinking of * Strabo XL pag. 518. the Concerning MEASURES of L iL N G 7 II. the MS. vanishes altogether. So that we may fuppofe the foot in L grius to be no other than the Attic, which we have all along made nearly the fame as 4 r of" the Etigliß. 25. A degree of the meridian being, according to the Arabians, 56 ]• miles of 6000 feet each ; if thefe are the fame as Attic feet, it will follow, that the whole circumference is 204000 attic Stadia; lefs than the fan, determination of Eratoßhenes (252000) by VV, near a fourth part: which might at firft view, create a fufpicion, that either we have not the true number of Eratoßhenes, or that he reckoned by a Stadium very different from the Attic; which would contradict, or confound every thing in the ancient Geography. That his numbers have not been altered we are affured from many paf- fages in Strabo and Pliny, and in all the ancient writers who mention him: and ftill more from his own determination of the diftance between Rhodes and Alexandria; which, Strabo fays, he found to be 3725 Stadia; this number being very nearly to 252000, as the difference of latitude of thofe cities (fuppoled to lye in the fame meridian) is to 360 degrees. The account given, in grofs, by Clecmedes * and others, is this : That Eratoßhenes finding by a gnomon the difference of the latitudes of Alexan- dria and of Syene, under the tropic, to be -jV of the circle, and 5000 Stadia being given him for the terreftrial diftance, it followed that the circuit of the earth was 250000: and Balfour, who tranflates and comments on Clecmedes, wonders why Pliny and fo many others mould add 2000 Stadia more. But this account is not exact ; and Eratoßbenes's computation had been faultlefs but for the error of the terreftrial diftance. In his time the ob- liquity of the Ecliptic was held to be 23 . §1', and the latitude of Alex- andria 30 . 58'. Increafe this only by 1 i, and the difference of latitude of Alexandria and Syene will be ~^o~ nearly S T ° of a degree, or 7». 8'i. of the circle: and if this gives 5000 Stadia, the whole circle will be 252000. The fractional part of the denominator 50 \ was neglected by Cleomedes, but the refult remains in all the other authors. The account which Cleomedes gives of Poßdonius's eftimate is lefs tolerable ftill. He fays that Pofidonius having obfeived the ftar Campus (the next to Sirius in magnitude) juft to appear in the horizon of Rhodes, and, at Alex- andria, to have its meridian altitude 7° =§, or 4 L g of the circle, the diftance of thofe cities, fuppoled under the fame meridian, being 5000 Stadia; he thence concluded the earth's circumference to be 48 into 5000, or 240000 Stadia. But is it probable that Pcßdcnius could fo far miftake either the difference in latitude of Rhodes and Alexandria, or their diftance ? Eratoßhenes having determined the former by obfervation, and thence deduced the diftance of 3725 Stadia, in proportion to his own eftimate of the circumference. * Meteor. Burdlgalae, 1605. c 2 Strab$ xxviii E N QU IRIES W CONJECTURES Strabo indeed fays, that diftance had been rated at 5000 Stadia, that the feamen reckoned it 4000, but that Eratoßkenes found it as above, to be no more than 3725. If therefore Pofidonins' % numbers have not been altered, he muft, probably, have rated the difference of latitude at 6°, or Vc- of the circle, and taken trie diftance to be 4000 Stadia; 60 into 4000 giving the fame refult as the 48 into 5000 of Cleomedes. But why may we not fuppofe Pofidonins, who had all the fkill and the opportunity neceffary for an exact determination, to have hit on the truer number of 204000 Stadia? which might, afterwards, be altered into 240000, by the miftake or the officious care of fome agronomical compiler; efpeci- ally as this would bring it nearer to the received eftimate of Eratofihenes. 26. However this be, there arifes a queftion, which, though not belong- ing to the prefent fubject, we fhall take this opportunity to mention, leaving it to the confederation of Aftronomers : " How Canopus (hould, in the " times of Eudoxus, Pofidonins, and Geminus, be feen juft to touch the hori- " zon of Rhodes, while it is now feen confiderably elevated above it ?" Strabo's account (translated) is this. " Pofidonius refert fe de excelsä " quadam domo in urbe ab iis locis" (ubi dies hngißima horarum 14 t) " ad " 400 ftadia diftante, ftellam vidiiTe quam exiftimaverit (rsxptntptaa-ou) efle " Car.opum, et qui inde verfus meridiem ex Hifpania progreffi funt, fateri " fe eura cernere. Quod etiam hiftoria Cnidia teftatur : eft enim in Cnido *' Eudoxi fpecula, non multo domibus fublimior, ex qua is fertur Canopum " fpectafle : effe autem Cnidum in Rhodiaco climate, in quo et Gades et " ora maritima ejus." And Geminm *, (Element. Cap. 2.) fays, " Infignis " flella quae fita eft in fummo gubernaculo navis Argus Canobus dicitur; *' atque hax Canobi ftella in Rhodo difficulter videri poteft, aut In locis " plane excellis apparet, at Alexandrias prorfus videri poteft, nam fere quart! " parte figni Canobus ab horizonte elevatus apparet." Which is copied by Pliny (Lib. II. 70.) " ut Canopus quartam fere partem figni fupra terram " eminere Alexandria? intuentibus videatur., eadem a Rhodo terram quod- ,c ammodo ipfam firingere." Now fuppufing Eudoxus to have obferved 360 years before the birth of C.kriß, the annual Praccßion to be 50", the obliquity of the Ecliptic 23 -r, the latitude of Canopus (as in our tables) A. D. 1720, to have been j$°. 51', and his longitude 11 . 9 of Cancer, it will follow that in the age cf Eudoxus, his longitude was 1". '6 1 of Gemini; and his declination 52°. 47 \. He touched the horizon therefore in the latitude 37 . 12' *, confir- derably to the north of Rhodes, or Cnidos ; and by the refraction muft have been fenfibly elevated above it. Pofidonius was old when Cicero vifited him, fo that we may place the . 1 when he obferved the ftars about 80 years before the birth of Chrijl ; * Jpud Pitav. in Uramthglen making Concerning MEASURES of LENGTH. xxix making the declination of Campus , at that time, 52 . 37'. And the ftar, by refraction, might be feen a whole degree north of the parallel of Rhodes. Yet Pofidonius, 400 Stadia, more than \ of a degree, to the fouth of that parallel, could only conjecture the bright flar he favv on the horizon to be Canopus. Ptolomy obferved about A. D. 136. So that in his time, the declination of Canopus was nearly 52 . 31'. And he might (with the refraction) be feen in N. Latitude 37 29. Note. The piaxefiion from Ptolomy $ time to A. D. 1720, being 22 , the ftar was then io°. 51' on the other fide of the folftitial Cohtre, that is in 19°. 9' of Gemini; whereas Ptolomy in his Almagefl makes it 17 . 30', lefs by 1°. 39. Proclus is thought to have compofed his Bock on the Sphere about A. D. 500. At which time Canopus was in the folftitial colure, or nearly fo : and his diftance from the S. Pole 37°. 29': Yet he fays, according to Balfour § account in his comment on Ckomedes, that " the ftar was hardly to be feen " at Rhodes. " Proclus — fatetur videri, segre tarnen, atque ex editis tan- " turn locis :" but this feems plainly to be copied from Geminus. Upon the whole, it is fubmitted to the Aftronomers whether we ought to afcribe to this Oar a particular motion, befides the change of declination from the praxeflion of the Colures? Or, if we may not reconcile, or rather account for, the above-cited pafTages, by faying they have probably been copied one from another ; and all of them from fome ancient obfervation, when Canopus was actually feen on the horizon of Rhodes? — horizontem ipjum Jtringere. If we put the latitude of Rhodes 36 . 20', we fhall find that 50 years be- fore Chrijl, Canopus juft touched its horizon, and might by the refraction, be feen near an hour and a half. And this falls nearly in the time of Pythagoras and other ancients, who had travelled, and begun to cultivate Afironomy. As to the difference in the declination of this ftar obferved by M. de la Coudamine, in Peru, (1738) from that which is marked in the Britißj Catalogue, {Phil, TranJ.) it is fufficiently accounted for from the Praccffion alone. II. [ XXX IL Of the Spheroid-Figure of the Earth; With Tables ferving to compare the obfervations concerning it. /^VUR author having touched but lightly on the fubjecf. of the true ^^ Figure of the Earth, we have thought proper to add the following articles ; containing a fhort account of the ground and determination of that figure, and the ufes to which the knowledge of it may be applied. §. i. Of the difference of the methods näherem 3VI. Huygens and Sir Ifaac Newton treat this fubjecl. Monfieur Richer having found, by repeated experiments, that bodies, near the equator, lofe fomewhat of the actual gravity which they had in higher latitudes; M. Huygens attributes this diminution of gravity folely to the centrifugal forces arifing from the earth's diurnal rotation ; which leffens the force of gravity, in different latitudes, in the ratio of the femi- diameters of the parallels of latitude, and that of the cofines of the lati- tudes, conjunctly : and thence by a calculation equally ingenious and accurate concludes the equatorial diameter of the earth to be to its axis as 57810577*. But Sir Ifaac Newton, agreeable to his principle of univerfal gravitation, adds to the diminution of gravity from the diurnal rotation, another arifing from the figure of the earth itfelf; and from thefe two caufes combined, he computes the diameter of the equator to be to the Axis as 230 to 229 : the earth being fuppofed of the fame figure that a homoge- neous fluid would take, whofe velocity of rotation round its axis was the fame as that of the earth -f. It was neceffary to take notice of this difference between the two methods, becaufe even very good writers feem not to have properly dif- tinguifhed them J. §.2. That a homogeneous fluid revolving equably round its axis icill take the figure of an oblate Spheroid, generated by a Co?iical Semi-Ellipfis turned round its leffer axis. This propofition, having been left undemonftrated by Sir Ifaac, was for fome time contefted by feveral eminent mathematicians ; and demon- " Huygen. de caufa gravitatis. + Princip. Lib. III. Prop. 19. X Sec Don Juan in his preliminary difcourfe. fixations Of the Spheroid-Figure of the E art it. xxxi ftrations were produced, that the figure of fuch a fluid would not be that of a geometrical fpheroid, but only approaching to it. The fault of thofe demonftrations was, that they depended on infinite feries, of which the terms that were thought inconfiderable had been rejected : a liberty which (hould becautiouily ufed, when the quantity to be determined is itfelf but fmall ; for, in the prefent cafe, it was this very rejection which created the difference thofe authors found between their fpheroid and a geometrical one. At lad: Mr. Mac haurin gave a juft fynthctical demonftration of the pro- pofition, in his treatife of fluxions : and its truth may (till more eafily be Ihewn as follows ; taking for granted only the common doctrines of cen- tripetal forces, and of the prefiure ef fluids, one or two propolitions of the Principia, and this plain Axiom in Statics : That " Any number of powers being in aquiiibrio, if they are all " increafed (or diminilhed) in the fame ratio, they will remain in cequili- " brio ftill, provided their directions are not altered." A fluid at reft, and undifturbed by any external force, forms itfelf into a fphere. In the figure annexed, let Pp be the diameter of fuch a fpherical fluid, C its Centre, PDpd a fection of it through the centre ; and imagine the whole fphere to be divided by parallel planes into circular Lamina of equal thicknefs, perpendicular to the axis Pp, whole common fections with the plane of the circle PDpd are reprefented by Kx, Ny, ccc. which fhall likewife reprefent columns of the fluid communicating with a canal in the axis. Then feeing particles of a given magnitude, in the axis, as at P, N, K, gravitate to the centre C in proportion to their diftances from it, PC, NC, KC (by princip. I. yo) the fums of thefe gravitations, or the preflures of the fluids in the canals PC, NC, KC, on the centre, will be as the fquares of thofe diftances. And thence, the prefiure of the fluid in the canal PN, at N, which fupports the perpendicular column Ny, will be to that of the fluid in PK, which balances Kx, as PCq — NCq is to PCq — KCq, or as the fquare of Ny to that of Kx : that is, the prefiure s or weights of the columns Ny, K x, on the axis, are as the fquares of their heighths. Let now the fphere begin to revolve on its axis Pp, till, by indefinitely fmall accelerations, it acquires any given velocity of rotation, the fluid which rifts between the planes being fupplied by lyphons, at the poles P p ; then, if we fuppofe it to have rifen according to the ordinales N Y, KX, of an ellipfe whofe lefler axis is Pp ; when the acceleration ceaies, the fluid will remain in asquilibrio, as before it began to revolve. For if we conceive the perpendicular prefiure of any canal, as NY, upon the fluid in the axis, to confift of two parts, one, the prefiure of the column Ny, while the fphere was at reft, the other that addkio xal weight it has now acquired, this 1 aft is manifeftly equal to the additional weight ic xxxii Of the Spheroid-Figure of the Earth. in the canal PN added to the fum of the centrifugal forces in the column NY. But (by Princip. I. 91. Cor. 3.) the ratio of the weight of PN to that of any other canal in the axis, as PK, is the fame in the fpheroid as in the fphere ; and therefore, by divifion, the differences of the weights in the fphere and fpheroid, or the additional weights of the fluid in the canals PN, PK, at N and K, will be as the fquares of Ny, Kx, or by the property of the ellipfe, as the fquareö of NY, KX. A»ain, let the fluid in the columns NY, KX be divided into the fame number of particles proportional to their diftances from the axis, as fand F. And the Momenta generated by the centrifugal forces being every where as the rays of circumvolution and the magnitudes of the particles jointly ; the centri- fugal Momenta of the particles f, F, and componendo, the funis of thofe momenta in the columns NY, KX, that is the weights in thofe columns that are fupported by the centrifugal forces, will be as the fquares of NY, KX; in the fame ratio as the additional preflures of the canals were found to be. And thence the fums of thele, or the additional weights in the columns NY, KX, which thofe fums balance, are as the fquares of NY, KX, or of Ny, Kx. The weights therefore in the columns perpendicular to the axis, and the forces that fuftain them, having been all along increafed in the fame ratio, the fluid will remain in asquilibiio, by the Axiom. And the adequate effects of the rotation being thus found in the geometrical fpheroid only, all other figures are of confequence excluded, fo long as the fluid continues to be homogeneous, and its parts to attract one another according to the received law *. §.3.0/" the figure of the Earth. There are two ways cf determining this queftion ; one, that of Sir Ifaac Newton, which funpofes only that we know the actual gravity of bodies at a particular place, as deduced from the Hufg en 1 an doctrine of Pendulums ; the quantity of centrifugal force at the equator, inferred from its femidiameter nearly known ; and the time of a diurnal revo- lution, which is about 23 huurs 56' : and thence the quantity that mufl be added to the actual gravity of bodies to compenfate what is taken off by the centrifugal force at a given parallel of latitude. His own theory gave him the attractive forces of a homogeneous fpheroid at its pole and equator: and his conclufions are, that the centrifugal force at the equator is about ^„th part of the force of gravity, as Huygens likewife had com- puted it ; and that, the earth, taking the form of a homogeneous fluid, mufl have its equatorial diameter to its axis as 230 to 229 -f. Others, from This analytical ciemonftratioii the learned Mr Kneßner fecms to think all one as thr cal by Mr. Mat Laurin. Sec a note or' his to his tranilation of Lv.hjj''% book on the Earth from Lnu Dutch into German. I Princip, III. 19. more Of the Spheroi d-F i g u r e of the Earth. xxxiii more exact determinations of fome of the Data, and by a more rigo- rous Calculus, make it as 231 to 230 ; and the ratio upon which the following tables are computed is very nearly the fame as this laft, being that of H789 to 8751 ,- the length of a Second Pendulum, at Paris, taken from Mr. de Mairain's experiments, being of 440 4-v Lines, or 12th pans of an inch, French meafure. * The other way of determining the earth's figure is by actual matura- tion •, and that, either of two degrees of the meridian, or of two J'econd Pendulums, in diftant latitudes, For ihe companion of the arcs, or of the lengths meafured, will (by a rule in the note fubjoined -f) give the ratio of the earth'«- inters ; on the Hypothecs, however, that its figure is that of a geometrical ipheroid. * In Phil. Tranf. Vol. XLVIN. Part. 1. N° 2. The ratio of the diameter is faid to be 226:225 ; probably from having aflurried the length of a fecund pendulum fomewhat too great. f The femidiameter of the equator (and radius) being 1; write S, s, for ihe fines «riven latitudes, C, c, for their cofines, and L, 1, for the lengths of the Jjochrone pendulums, Or, for the cube roots of the number of toifes in the degree meafured : So fhall the femiaxis c * l* — c» L». be the fquare root of ^ Ll - 4 ^ ■ 'examples. The degree meafured at the polar circle (corrected for the refraction) is 57422 Toifes; that of M. Pieard (corrected) is 57183 ; and, taking ?c-mean of the obfervations made by t e French and Spanifh gentlemen, the degree at the equator is 56754. Let thefe three meafure- ments be denoted by the letters A, B, C ; and the refults will be as follows: Lat. Toifes. Combin. Ratio, j Lat. Lines. Combin. Ratio. A B C 5ü c .20 49°. 22 57422 A B 189:188 1 b c 66°.48' 441.17 a b 204:203 57 l8 3 A C 215:214 229:228 48. 50 o°.o'' 44°' s 187:186 |-W-I7. ; o°. 0' 5 6 754 1 R C ho executed the arduous undertaking of meafuring the earth, appear to be men of ftrict honour and integrity, as well as of confummate (kill : and the world is greatlv indebted to them, and to the Princes who patronized and employed them. Yet may we not, without offence, fubjecl them to fome degree of a weaknefs common to all mankind? inftances of which have been i en in ahnoil every difj u e, tho' purely fpecqlative ; and particularly in the controverfy concerning t ne earth's figure. M. CaJfim.wsLS a follower of des Cartes, whofe world Sir Jfaac Nenvtoii was born to deftroy. Was it any wonder that Caßni ■ fhould incline to give the earth a figure oppofite to Sir Tfaac\ ? or, that he mould lead after him a few Leibnitian Germans'? — The gentlemen who went to the north were genuine difciples of Newton ; and we fee they give him n^re ihan he wants ; even after Mr. Picard's degree is corrected. M. Bonguer feems fhy to accept of any affiftance from his predecefibrs: and it is perhaps for this reafon that, when his operations are finifhed, he hefitates about the conclusion; whether he fliould rate the increments of degrees by the fquares, or the cubes, or the fourth powers of the fines of latitude. — On his return, however, he yields, I am told, to the eftahlifhed authority, and is willing to let the ratio of the earth's diameters be that of 179 to 178. — Don 'Juan, on the contrary, lays afide his terreftrial meafures, which had coft him lb dear, becaufe his degree, compared with others meafured elfewhere, gave him, every time, a different conclufion;*and trufting wholly to the length of the pendulum, thence brings out the difference of the femidiameter of the equator and the femiaxis to be ^^ ; precifely the fame as that affigned by his friend M. Clairaut in Phil. Tranf. N. 449 — Now may not the authority, as well as the theorems of M. Clairaut, have had fome part in this determination? other inftances might be given. But, pafiing this, we have to obferve further, that altho' the conftitu- tion of the earth were fo far from being uniform, as fenfibly to affect the obfervations ; yet rules and tables adapted to the primary hypothecs of a homogeneous earth, would ftill be neceflary ; as a fixt flandard for readily comparing and weighing all thofe obfervations; and by which indeed any ftudent of geography, who is mafter of common arithmetic and trigonometry, may reap all the fruits that can be expected from this grand enquiry ; which has fo long exercifed the heads and hands of the learned, and has filled fo many volumes, in almoft all the languages of Europe. §. 4. The Of the Spheroid-Figure of the Earth. xxxvii §. 4. The CcnfiruBkn and Ufe of Table I. Of the fanl diameters of \ parallels of latitude. CONSTRUCTION. In the fcheme annexed, if ZT be a tangent line to the meridian of any place Z, meeting the diameter EQ^of the equator, produced, in T, and ZG perpendicular to it cut EQ^in G ; the angle ZGT will be the latitude of the place Z; and ZL, parallel to EQ^Js the femidiameter of its parallel of latitude. The numbers in Tab. I. are thofe femidiameters ZL; CE being unity ; and are thus computed : — Cp, the femiaxis, being denoted by m, to the Log. tangent of the Co-latitude add the log. £ (= 0.0018818) Soßall the fine of the angle, wbofe tangent the fum is, be the fern: 'diameter fought. USE. i°. Let the latitude of Z, for example, be 56 ; then ZL will be : .56o858; exceeding the cofine of 56 which is .559195, by .00166?, or nearly -^ part. That is, the parallel of 56° on the fpheroid exceeds that on the fphere by no more than ttt. And every where elfe, fimilar arcs of the fame parallel of latitude, on the fphere and fpheroid, will be fo nearly equal, that in the praclice of failing their difference may be neglected. 2. The femidiameters ZL, (zl), being every where given, we can, by a very obvious procefs, meafure the right line which connects any two given points Z, z, in the furface of the fpheroid; whether thofe points lye in the fame or in different meridian planes. §. 5. The ConflruBion and Ufe of Table II. Of the lengths of an ifochro- ncus pendulum ; its length at the pole being unity. CONSTRUCTION. The numbers in this table are proportional to the lines ZG perpendi- cular to the tangent ZT, and terminated by the greater axis of the gene- rating ellipfe: the adual gravity of bodies, and the length of the pendulum which meafures it, being, by Mr. Mac Lour in % theorems *, proportional to thofe lines. They are thus eafily computed : To the logarithm of the Semidiameter of the parallel of lat. (in Tab. I.) add 2 log. m. ( — 1.9962364.) and from the fum take the log. cofine of the latitude, fofiall the remainder be the logarithm of ZG. USE. i°. The lengths of pendulums, that have been any where obferved, are hereby compared with the lengths which a homogenous fpheroid requires ; and the difference between theory and experience immediately found. * Fluxions §. 640, Thus xxxviii Of the Spheroid-Figure of the Earth. Thus the number in the table for the latitude of Paris (48 50') being .9981195, and in lat. 66°. 48/, at Pello, .999326, and the former being to the latter as 440 44 lines (M. de Matrons pendulum) are to 441.099, this is the pendulum's length due to a homogeneous earth at lat. 66°. 48'. And Mr. de Mmipertuis, with Mr. Grahams excellent instrument, makes it but 441.170, exceeding the former by about tt-ö of an inch. Again, by the experiments of the French and Spaniß) gentlemen at the equator, the mean length of a fecond pendulum was there about 438.79 lines, which reduced to the level of the fea they rate at 439.2 The number in the table for lat. o° is .995677, and .9981195 is to it as 440 44 lines to 439.484. The theory therefore exceeds the observation by lome- what more than i of a line. 2°. The fame table ferves for comparing the terreftrial meafures ; only the cubes of the numbers muß be ufed, not the numbers themfelves : the ray of curvature at any point Z being proportional to ZG cub *. The numbers for the latitudes 66°. 20' and 49 . 22' are .999300 and .9981595; and their cubes are as 1. 00000 to .9965805, or as 57422 toifes (the degree meafured by M. de Maupertuis) to 57225.6; exceeding Mr. Picard's degree corrected (57183) by 42.6 toifes ; equivalent to an error in the agronomical part of about 24 feconds. And the fame cube is to the cube of .995677 (belonging to lat. o°) as i.oocooo to .989163, or as 57422 is to 56800 toifes; exceeding the degree at the equator, as meafured by the French and Spanifj gentlemen -f-, by 46 toifes. But if we fay as the cube of the number belonging to 49 . 22', to the cube of -995677, fo 57183 to 5(>7S7-r» toifes this number will exceed the equator-degree only by 3 A toifes. Upon the whole, we find the differences between the beft obfervations and the theory, to be no greater than what may arife from errors which no obferver, with his utmoft care, and with the belt inftruments, can altogether avoid. We fee likewife what an unmanageable Proteus the earth would prove, were we to take its figure from the obfervations alone; without correcting and comparing them. 3 . We have been told that the knowledge of the earth's figure is of importance in levelling, and in conveying of water; how far it is fo will be feen by an example. Suppofe an aqueduct is to be carried fixty minutes or miles from lat. 48 to lat. 49 , and that the effect propofed requires, that the cittern or refervoir mould be M feet h'gh at lat. 48 . the earth being fuppofed to have no diurnal rotation, and confequently, a fecond-pcndulum to be every where of the fame length- Then feeing by Tab. IJ. the decrement of * Seed? Moivre's Mifcell. Analyt. and M l Laurin §. 657. f Fi Friß Difquifitio Milan 1752. gravity Of the Spheroid-Figure of the Earth. xxxix gravity from 49 to 48° is but mrVn^.-, to balance it, we need only add to the heighth M about rrWr of itfelf ; which, if M be a ftatute mile of 5280 feet, does not amount to five inches. 4 . To find the radius of a circle aquicurve to the meridian, at any given latitude, from thrice the logarithm of the number in 'Tab. II. take 4 times the logarithm of m (which is — 1.9924728) the remainder ß:all be the leg. cf the radius J ought *. And hence the diftance of two places whofe latitudes and difference of longitude are given, may be nearly found. Find their dijlance as if they lay in the fur/ace of a Jphere, whofe femidiameter is the fame as that of ti e equator CE ; and increafe or diminifj that dißance in the ratio of CE to half the fum of the rays of Curvature at the give/; latitudes. 5 . If the moon's horizontal parallax of altitude at the equator, (or more ftri&ly, the tangent of that angle) is reprefented by its femidiameter CE, her horizontal parallax at any latitude ZGE, will be Zg; that is, ZG produced till" it meets the diameter OH drawn parallel to the tan- gent ZT. The lines Zg are computed either by taking the logarithms of the numbers in Tab. I. from the Log. cofines of the latitudes ; or, by taking the logarithms of the numbers in Tab. II. from the logarithm of m {— 1. 9981 182.) In either way the remainder will be the logarithm of Zg, the meafure of the moons horizontal parallax for the latitude ZGE. Thus in lat. 52 . The logarithm of Lg, will be — 1. 998833: and thence, if at a certain diftance of the earth and moon, the parallax at the equator is 60', adding the log. of 60, there will be produced the log. of 59.839, and the parallax is leffened by 9^- feconds. But this equation of the moon's parallax can never exceed *4r of the greateft parallax (61' 7 ) and at the pole would not rife to 16 . 6°. To find the parallax of the moon's Azimuth ; take from ZG (in Tab. II. -4t of itfelf, to reduce it to radius CE, in parts of which Zg is exprefs'd ; and fubftracf the remainder from Zg found by the rule in N° 5. So fhall their difference Gg be given. Say then as radius to the tangent of lat. fo Gg to Cg, the parallax fought. In lat. 52 we found juft now that Zg is .997320, (the number whofe log. is — 1,998833) and ZG, reduced as above, is .994032 : Gg, there- fore, their difference is .003288; and 1: tang. 52 : :o .003288: 0.00420845 = Cg in parts of the equator. Which multiplied by 6r. 7", gives it 1 54 feconds for the greateft parallax of Azimuth, at 52 lat. And this is to be diminished, on either fide of the prime vertical, in the ratio of the cofihe cf the moon's diftance from it \. * The radius of curvature becomes equal to CE, or unity, at lat. 54 47'i. t Whether fuch equations of the moon's place are Worth the notice of practical aftrono- Römers, themfelves can belt judge §. 6. The xl Of the S p h e r o i d-F igure of the Earth. §.6. The ConßruBion and Ufe of Table III. The numbers of this table were computed from a feries, which con- verges very quickly to any degree of exaftnefs ; the difference of the earth's diameters being lb fmall. Its ufe is plain from the table itfelf, which, in navigation, is but inconfiuerable - y the greateft difference of the elliptical and fpherical arcs (at 54 . 47 t) being but 176.15 minutes of the equator. And therefore it was thought fufficient to compute for every 5th degree. § . 7. The ConßruBion and UJe of Table IV. The meridional parts of the fpheroid are calculated as follows. The femidiameter of the equator (and the radius of the tables) being unity, write m for the femiaxis, q for 1 — nv, s for the fine of the given latitude : and let A be the arc whofe log. fine is \ log. q — log. x s. Then, the logarithm of log. co-tangent of half the compliment of A, added to the fum of i log. q and the conßant log. 3.8984895, will be the logarithm of the excefs of the meridional parts on the fphere above thofe on the oblate fpheroid, at the hit. who fe fine is s. The improvement of navigation having been looked on as the chief motive to the laborious and expenfive undertakings of the French acade- micians, no fooner had M. de Maupertuis' book appeared, than nautical. tables for the fpheroid were published in a treatife which, the year after, was tranflated into French, and publiihed with additions, by the late M. de Bremond *. The truth is, there was then fome appearance of ufe for fuch tables : it was poffible to devife a fhip's courfe in which the difference between the fphere and fpheroid might not be infenlible. But the earth having, fince that time, much contra&ed her equatorial diameter, fo much that we can fcarce do better than take her up in the fhape in which Sir Ifaac left her ; the numbers id this table only fhew that feamen may do very well with- ' cut them. GENERAL CONCLUSION. Altho' the effects of the earth's fpheroid figure are thus inconfiderable i'i practical arts ; yet are not the fpeculations concerning it altogether ufelefs, nor the pains that have been taken for its exail determination, ; . Kir loft. • Thofe tab] ere computed upon the companion of the degree in Lapland (57438 T.) ththatofM. Picard (5-060); making the diameter of the equator to the axis nearly as '• 1 to HS. 1°. Had Of the Spheroid-Figure of the Earth. xli i». Had the French academy of Sciences, and the rell: of the learned world, acquiefced in M. Caj/jni's determination lb fpeciouily exhibited, the errors in navigation would have been really of dangerous confequence ; as the late Profeffor Celßus has fhewn : And as any one may fatisfy himfelf by conftructing from a rule of Mr. Maclaurins -j- table of meridional parts for Ca/fint's, earth, and comparing the refulcs. 2°. Theory and experience agreeing to make a very fenfible difference between the fpheroid of Sir IJaac Newton and that of Huygens, Sir Ij'aacs theory of attraction, in conformity to which that difference ariies, receives an undoubted confirmation. 3". It is from the figure, and internal conftruction of the earth, that the quantity of the equinoctial precelTion, and of the nutations of the earth's axis are computed. 4°. This fcurfj of the earth which we inhabit, and into which we can penetrate but a little way, is compofed of an endlefs variety of fubftances, differently concreted, and of different fpecific gravities. And hence we are ealily led to imagine a like variety of denfity throughout the whole mafs of the Earth. But there feem's to be little ground for this notion, either in experience or in Philofophy. All the befl: obfervations fuit very well to a homogeneous earth : and fuppofmg them perfectly exact, the whole dif- ference between them and the theory, might fairly be afcribed to an excels or defect of attraction, from particular accidental caufes. A variety of fubftances of different qualities and denfities was abfolutely neceffary in the fuperficial parts ; for by their elemental jlrife all things are generated, preferred, ard deßroyed. But this reafon ceales in the dead mafs below : to which it will be difficult to aliig n any other ufe than to ferve as a bafis for the furface to reft on, and to receive and exert the quantities of attractive force neceffary to keep the earth and her fatellite in their deftined courfes. Ends which can be as well effected, and with more limplicity, in a homogeneous mafs, than in any other that can be afiigned. And God and nature do nothing in vain. We may therefore, for the prefent, fafely fet afide the hypothefis of a variable denfity in the internal parts of the earth, with the conclufions drawn from it. Particularly we may hold for fijfpected at Icaft, any agronomical calculations that are partly founded in that hypothefis. t Fluxions §. 895, ü*4 Vol. I. e TAB. TABLE I. Of the Semidiameters of the Parallels of Latitude, Rad. of the Equator being i.oooooo. tat. Sem id. Lat. Semid. Lat. Semid. 1° 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 IO 1 1 12 »3 H '5 16 *7 18 l 9 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 .999849 j •99939 6 i .998641 1 •997585 .996227 31 1 3 2 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 4i 42 43 44 4? 46 47 48 49 50 5 1 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 |6o .858150 .849077 .839746 .83OI58 .8203 17 .8l0226 .799886 .789303 .778477 .7674)4 6l 62 63 64 65 60 67 68 69 70 7 1 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 80 9° .486418 .471059 •455553 •4399°7 .424124 .994569, .992610 1 •99035 1 ■987793 .984936 .408209 .392167 .376004 •359723 •34333 1 .981781 •97833° •974583 .970541 .966205" •75 OIi 5 •744585 .732826 ,720842 .708637 .326831 .310230 •29353 2 .276742 .259867 .961576 .956657 .951448 •94595\ .940167 .696215 .683578 .670731 .657677 .644421 .030967 .617318 .603478 •589452 .571:244 .560858 .546299 •53 I 57 I .^6678 .24291 1 .225878 .208775 .191607 .174376 .157097 .139766 .122391 .104977 .087531 .934098 •927746 .921 112 .914198 .907020 •899540 .891800 .883788 .875508 .070058 •052563 •03505 1 .017528 .866961 I.501026 TABLE II. The lengths of an Ifochronous Pendulum ; its length at the Pole being l.oocooo. Lat. Length. o° I •99S 6 77 1 ; ' 1 Length. l-l Length. .995678 3 1 .99681' 61 .998978 2 .995681 3 2 885 02 .999042 3 687 33 953 6 3 104 4 697 34 .997022 64 164 5 6 709 35 36 092 05 66 223 7 2 3 164 281 7 740 37 236 67 337 8 759 3« 3°9 08 39° 9 781 39 382 69 442 IO 1 1 806 40 4i 45 6 70 7 1 492 833 530 539 12 862 42 605 72 584 *3 8 94 43 680 73 628 H 928 44 755 74 670 i 15 ! 16 964 45 46 831 75 76 709 .996003 907 745 ^7 044 47 982 77 780 ■18 087 48 .998057 78 812 J 9 132 49 132 79 842 ao 2J 179 5 1 207 80 81 869 228 281 894 ! 22 280 5 2 354 82 .999917 ?-3 333 53 427 «3 .36 1 2 4 3*7 54 499 84 5 2 2-5 26 443 55 56 57 l !«5 186 67] 502 642 79 I27 5 6 3 57 712 m 88 28 625 5* 780 188 95 129 "JO 688 75 2 59 60 847 |«9 I9O 99 9 J 3 1. 000000 e 2 TAB. III. 'Arcs of the Meridian in mi- nutes of the equator to every fifth degree of Latitude. Lat. O I 5 10 l J 20 >5 .30 35 40 45 5° 55 60 65 70 75 •; 90 S ; ! . c 1 -1. : d . =9956764 59'-49 297.27 59 6 -5o 892.49 1 190 1488, 1786, 2085, 2 3 s 3' 27 24 49 00 85 2683 2982 3282 35 82 3883 ■°3 -54 •39 .56 .02 4183.75 4484.69 4785.8, 5087.04 5388.33 Sphere. R :i 000 6o' 300 600 900 I200 1500 r8oo 2100 240c 270c 300c 33 0f 360c 390c 420c 45° c 480c 5100 ?4O0 d.ff. o. °'-54 z-73 3-5° 7-51 973 1.76 3-5' 5.00 6:1.5 6.97 7.46 7.61 7-44 6.9S 6.25 5-3 ' 4.19 2.96 1.67 TAB. IV. Meridional Parts on the Sphere •and Spheroid to every fifth degree of Latitude. Sphere. Spheroid. O. 60.OO 3°°-3 603.07 910.46 1225.14 1550.00 j 888.37 2244.29 2622.69 3029.94 3474-47 3967.97 45 2 7-37 5 i 7 8.8i 5965.92 6970.34 8375.19 10764.62 00 59.49 297. Bo 597-92 902.78 1214 96 J53747 l8 73-53 2227.26 2603.6c 3008.94 345 I -7 1 3943-62 4501.62 5151.86 5937-97 6941.64 8345.90 10734.99 CO dlff. o 0.5] 2.58 5-15 7.68 10.18 J2 -53 14.84 17.03 19.09 2 1. 00. 22.761 2 4-35 z 5-75 26 -95 27.95 28.70 29.29 29.63 2 9-75 2 A P J%gAi^f\ Fig, Q^ xlvi III. Of the befl Form of a Geographical Map. "^HERE are Six things that claim a place in the conftru&ion of a map, and which ought all to be reprefented, as nearly as poflible, in their juft dimensions. i°. The latitudes of places. 2°. Their longitudes. 3°. Their di fiances'. 4°. Their bearings, or the Rumb-Yme from one place to another. 5°. The angles in which the meridians interfect the parallels of latitude. 6°. And laftly, the fuperficial content of any Zone, or part of a zone, that is to be defcribed. To exhibit all thefe on a plane, in the juft quantity they have on the globe, is impofiible : but that conftruction which reprefents the greateft number of them accurately, and the others very nearly fo, may be called the beft form of a geographical map. In the Thilos. Tranjacl. of the year 1758, §. LXXIII, a method of de- scription is propofed, by which the firft, fecond, fifth, and fixth of the above conditions are ftridtly fatisfied, and the bearings and dijlances are like- wife very near the truth, unlefs the breadth of the given zone be exceffive. The method is founded in this ; that a conical furface is a mean between & convex furface and a plane. In one direction, it accommodates itfelf to the curvature of a globe, and confequently receives a truer projection than a plane furface can; after which it is capable of being extended on a plane, the diftances between any two points remaining the fame as they were on the conical furface, that is nearly the fame as on the globe. From this principle feversl rules may be derived ; which the reader mav fee in the above tkanfaSion, and the addenda. But the following may be recommended as the ca fie ft in pra&ice, and at the fame time fuf- ficiently '•:. icl ; as any one may fatisfv himfdf by making the comparifon. 1. The artift having fixt upon the depth he can give bis map from th to iVutb, let him draw the line AB( Fig. (^O.) equal to it; and divide line Into as many equal parts as there are degrees between the ex- treme latitudes. As if the extreme latitudes are io° and So<", the line ' • • < i . d into 70 equal parts. 2. From of the beß Form of a Geographical Map. xh 2. From Z, the middle latitude, raife the perpendicular ZX, and froi the point A draw AY meeting AX in Y, and making the angle ZAY equal to the complement of half the difference of latitude. Thus in our example, half that difference being 35', the angle ZAY will be 550. Then draw YP making the angle AYP equal to the complement of the greater latitude, and cutting AB produced in P, lb (ball the point P be a common centre from which all the parallels of latitude are to be defcribed as in the figure. Or, if you had rather ufe numbers ; multiply the co-tangent of half the difference cf the extreme latitudes by the co-tangent oj the middle latitude, end the product by half the depth cf your map, in inches ; fo fhall this laft product be the number of inches from the middle of the map to the centre of the parallels. Thus the depth of the map being 50 inches, and the extreme latitudes being io° and 6o°, half the diff. of lat. is 25°, and the mean lat. 35 ; whole co-tangents are 2.144507 and 1. 428148; their product is 3.06267; and this multiplied by 25 gives, for the diflance fought, 76.567 inches. 3. Take the angles of longitude, as BPp, BPq, and their lubdivTions, in proportion to the angles on the globe, which they are to reprefent, as the fine of the middle latitude is to radius ; and through the points of divifion draw the meridians Pio, P20 6cc. Thus if pBq is to reprefent 90 of longitude. The middle latitude in our example being 35 , whofe fine is .7071, to Rad. 1.0000; the angle pPq will be 90°x .7071 or 63 . 38', and any angle of io°, will be about 7 . 4'i. 4. If it be required that the map fhould ferve likewife for a fea-chart ; to the common pole P, from as many centers as is necefTary, draw as many logarithm-Jpirah as are necefTary; and they will be fo many rumb lines on the map, each of them cutting all the meridians in the fame angle; and directing a fhip's courfe to as great a degree of exactnefs as is attainable in the practice of failing. Thefe may be defcribed mechanically, by a rule deduced either from one of Mr. Cotes's proportions, or from a cafe of Mercator-failing. 5. Hitherto the whole map has been fuppefed to lye on the fame fide of the equator. If it does not, there ariie two cafes. Firß, when the zones, to the north and fouth of the equator, are of a fmall breadth and nearly equal : then we may, without fenfible error, extend the lefl'er to an equality with the greater, and project on a Cylindric fur- face cutting the globe in the two circles of mean latitude. Secondly, if the zones differ much in breadth, we are to defcribe the northern as above directed (the arc pBq, in our figure, now reprefenting 90 of the equator) and by the fame rules, the fouthern zone is to be defcribed on the other fide of the tangent LM. Only it is to be obferved, that the diflance of two places (F, f,) that lye on different fides of the equator cannot, on this map be meafured imme- diately, xlviii Of the bcfi Form of a Geographical Map. diately. We mud firft find the point N in the equator where a great circle through F, f, cuts it; which is done by an ealy conftru&ion ; or by the f®l!owing analogy. As the fum cf the tangents of the two latitudes is to their difference : Jo is the tangent of half the difference cf longitude to the tangent of an angle t which added to half the difference of longitude will determine the point N. Thus F being in N. lat §o°, and fin S.Iat. io" and their dilti of longitude 30 , the arc found will be 26% ; which are to be counted off on the equator from the meridian of F, to find the point N. After .which the right lines FN, fn, join'd and added, will give the diftance from F to f near enough to the truth, unlefs the zones are very broad. Note, Ptolemy, or whoever wrote the laft chapter, Book I. of his geo- graphy, propofcs to defcribe the then known world, from the Parallel of Thule in 63 north, to the parallel oppofite to that of Meroe, with 180 of longitude ; and his method fo far refembles this, that the meridians are right lines drawn through a centre of the parallels. But it muff be owned, that as his rule is not general, being adapted only to that particular purpofe ; fo neither is it fo accurate as it might have been, from principles well known to Ptolemy. The zone, particu- larly, which l.ies beyond the equator, is delineated in plain contradiction to the rules of art. Senfible of thofe defects, the author gives, in the fequel of that fame chapter, a rule which he prefers to the other ; as indeed it might fuit his purpofe better. But this preference feems to have been one caufe why geographers have fo long copied Ptolemy and one another, to the negledt of a method which, in mod cafes, is more eafy and elegant, as well as more exact. Some of our beft artifls have, for more than a century paft, feen the advantages of it ; and the ingenious Mr. Kitchin hath generally ufed it, in the maps with which the following volumes are enriched. THE OF THE UTILITY O F GEOGRAPHY. 'HE Utility of Geography is very considerable, and deferves a particular difcuflion; but this, according to the plan I have laid down, mud not be too long. What I fhall chiefly dwell upon is, its principal ufe, by obferving ' That the knowledge of ' God, the Creator and Preferver of all things, is eminently ' promoted by this Science.' — Our Earth, indeed, is but a fmall, yet no contemptible, part of his glorious works; and as the whole Univerfe taken together demonftrates the Exiftence of a God, fo the Earth in particular exhibits the mod indifputable proofs of that great Truth. For wherever we turn our eyes, we cannot but obferve evident traces of the power, wifdom, and goodnefs of the Supreme Being. Such an attentive obferva- tion of the wonders that furround us is more incumbent on us, and the more to our advantage, as we cannot fo perfectly view and admire thofe parts- of the Creation that are detached from the Earth we inhabit; I mean the fhining orbs that ftrike the admiring eye, on viewing the heavens with all their magnificent apparatus ; which are at too great a distance for us to have any perfect knowledge of them, or to difcover their nature and fymmetry, fo as to enlarge our conceptions of the great Creator. Our .Earth, however, is at prefent fufficient to impart to us that knowledge of God which is attainable by confidering the works of nature ; for it is fo full of the ftupendous works of God, that even after the moif affiduous enquiries and mofl: careful obfervations, we have a thorough infight but into the leaft part of them ; nay, properly fpeaking, we have not a perfect knowledge of any fingle part of the Creation. We may therefore juftly conclude that if this terraqueous Globe, which is but a very fmall portion Vol. I. B of Of A U t i l i t y of Geography. of the Whole, is ftored with fo many glorious instances of the Divine wifdom and power that even a general furvey of it proves fo laborious, fo difficult and extenfive a tafkj we might fay infinitely more, could we but attain fuch a general knowledge of the Univerfe, as we have gradually ac- quired of this our Earth. God made the Earth and every thing that is in it. It was not his defign to leave it ' empty and void ;' but he flocked it with animate and inanimate Beings. The former, indeed, exceed the latter in excellence j but all of them taken together are admirable, and aftonifhingly glorious. On every fide we fee great and ftupendous works, either of nature or art, or both at the fame time. God is indifputably the author of both. The beauty, luftre, pomp, and magnificence of Nature difplay his creating and preferving power ; and even the fkill of man in various arts and fciences, is the gift of God. The nature or conflitution of the feveral parts and regions of the earth is far from being every where the fame, but is wonder- fully diverfihed ; every country having a different temperature of air, with different plants, fruits, and animals. All thefe things exift for the fake of Men, who, according to the wife appointment of God, are defcended from one common Father, whofe numerous pofterity are fpread over the whole face of the Earth, and between whom, in procefs of time, a wide difference is arifen, with refpect to their outward form and manner of life. Now as innumerable families defcended from one pair, and from thefe again many and great nations and people derive their origin, God allotted to each of them the ' bounds of their habitations ;' for the limits and extent of their countries are grounded neither on chance, nor on the choice of the nations themfelves, but on an almighty and all-wife-Providence, of which perfons of attention and reflection may very foon be convinced. The different political conftitutions and all their changes and revolutions are likewife owing to God's fole appointment ; which, as King and Lord of the Univerfe, he regulates by the moft unerring wifdom, and determines the mutual relation, which, from time to time, they bear to each other. By his all-wife, governing Providence alfo, the moft diftant parts of the known world are connected by a mutual commerce. One Nation has been of great fervice to another towards attaining the knowledge of the true God, and our Saviour JefusChrift; has inftrudted it in arts and fciences ; and directed its progrefs in learning and knowledge. The fuperfluity of one country abundantly fupplies the wants of another : And there is not a fingle country which produces fuch plenty of every thing as to fupply its own neceffkies, conveniences, and pleafure, and to be able entirely to fubfift without the reft of the world. On the contrary, one country may ftand in need of ano- ther, either to fupply its wants, or to take off its fuperfluities : And as every Nation is concerned for its own welfare, the common and general ad- vantage of all is promoted, whether they defign it or no. It Of the Utility «/Geography. It was undoubtedly by the direction of Providence, that men took occa- fion, both in ancient and modern times, to fend out greater or fmaller colonies from among them into the molt diftant countries, in order to get fubfiftence, or to raife their fortunes. The mixture of people arifing from fuch transmigrations has produced a fimilitude of manners and a clofer union among them ; which indeed gave occafion to the propagation of many vices, but at the fame time of many virtues. Let us in the next place confider, how various nations have improved and cultivated their native land, or conquered provinces; what impregnable towns and fortreffes, what magnificent and lurprizing edifices they have built ; what elegant gardens and other embellifhments they have planned, and we mult be aftoniihed at the intellectual powers, the noble talents, and amazing fkill, which God has gracioufly imparted to men. How few and inconfiderable were the cities and towns in Denmark, Germany, and other kingdoms a thoufand years ago ? But, without going fo far back, if we look into the annals of modern times ; we fhall find that about two hundred, or a hundred, or even fifty years fince, here flood a defolate and walte region, there an extenfive dreary wood j here rugged and defart rocks, and there an inacceffible fen or morafs, in places which are now adorned with a populous and elegant town, a magnificent palace, a ftrong caftle, or other place of defence. Nature has been thus fo far fubdued and con- ftrained by art and indefatigable indultry, as to make all this appear next to a wonder in the eyes of the intelligent and experienced fpectator. With what admiration and furprife mult we view thefe great and fumptuous works ? Are they to be confidered merely as the effects of human efforts?— By no means : They have only lent their hands to the work ; by which in- ftruments God, who has girded them with ftrength, and furnilhed them with wifdom and fkill, produced thefe wonders. Had thefe things been contrary to his fupreme will, how eafy had it been for infinite power to have defeated all human endeavours ; and how often indeed has fuch an intervention actually happened ? As for many famous cities founded in an- cient, middle, and modern ages, we may now afk with aftonilhment where are they ? — Confumed with fire from heaven, laid wafte by cruel ene- mies, fwallowed up by the earth or the fea ; covered by mountains, or buried in the vaft abyfs. All this hath the Lord done, the God who made the heavens and the earth. But from whence do we learn this truth ? — It is from the following confideration. The overthrow of feveral re- nowned and populous cities appeared to the inhabitants and the reit of the world, and even to thofe who were employed as inftruments to deftroy them, altogether improbable and incredible. But God had foretold and ex- prelly threatened, that he would accomplifh the deftruction and defolation of fome of thofe cities. That the fate of Babylon, Tyre, Jernfalem, &c. happened in confequence of fuch predictions, we are w-ll allured. B 2 And Of the Utility «/Geography, And though God did not by his prophets foretel the downfal of other cities, that have been deftroyed in a fignal manner ; yet from thefe in- stances we muft acknowledge his all-governing Providence to have been the efficient caufe of fuch events. I might indeed enlarge on this impor- tant Subject, which would, probably, be both ufeful and entertaining, if my plan would admit of it : But this fhort fketch is Sufficient to prove the propofition which I would chiefly inculcate to my readers, namely, That a good fyftem of Geography exhibits evident proofs of, and arguments for the doctrine of God's Providence ; and that consequently it ought to be ranked among the moft ufeful and neceffary books, as of equal importance with any theological treatife written on that fubjecl:. It is much to be lamented that Geography has hitherto been fo little confidered in this light, and fo feldom, if at all, inculcated, on the minds of youth in particular, with that view. On the contrary, the Stupendous works of God difplayed in the Creation, are too much disregarded by the generality ; though they contain the firSt principles by which we attain the knowledge of a God, and to which we are fo often referred in the holy Scriptures. The rational and ferious confideration of the Creation fupplies us with exalted ideas of God ; and if to this we join the comfortable doctrine of God's Reconcilia- tion to guilty man by the mediation of Chrift, he will appear to us an object fo highly deferving of our love, as neceffarily to produce the Strongest affiance in him, and make us refolve to conform our lives to his Sacred will from a principle of gratitude. It is therefore my defire and requeffc that all, who Shall in thefe Sheets read the description of the kingdoms, States, and cities of the world, would reflect, that it is not an account of the works of men, but rather of the works of God, the Creator and Pre- server of the world ; and, indeed, of the fmalleft part of the Univerfe or amazing Whole. In particular, I could wiSh that the instructors of youth would labour to infpire their pupils with an aweful conception of that tranfcendently glorious and infinitely wife Being, of whofe immenfe domain this Earth constitutes So inconfiderable a part, and whofe vaSfäls Princes, Kings, and Emperors are ; a conception, I Say, Suitable to his grandeur, and fit to inSpire us, his creatures, with admiration, complacency, and delight. Moreover, the Utility of Geography is Still more extenfive. It is in ge- neral entertaining, ufeful, and neceSiary to bring us acquainted with the Earth on which we live. It muSt be very diSagreeable, not to fay worfe, to be ignorant of the Situation, &c. of foreign Countries when, in conver- sation, or perufing hiftcries, we hear of battles, fieges, travels by land, voyages by fea, and other remarkable occurrences. For, without a compe- tent knowledge of Geography, it is impoffible for us to form to ourfelves a juft or uSeful idea of Such things. Even many learned men are Strangers to their own country and native place, not to mention foreign countries; und how mortifying a circumftance is this ? Were children, inStead of the idle Of the Utility 0/ Geography. idle ridiculous tales of ghofts and fairies, early inftructed in the knowledge of the Earth we inhabit, how great would be the advantage arifing from fuch inftrudtions ? In fhort, Geography is a fcience not only ufeful for all, but indifpenfibly neceffary to fome perfons. A Sovereign muft needs be acquainted with the ftate of his own and of foreign countries ; particularly of the neighbouring kingdoms : And the more accurate his knowledge of them is, the greater advantage he will reap from it. None can pretend to be a Statefman without a competent fkill in Geography : For, how fhould he come to the knowledge of the weaknefs and ftrength of the dominions of his fovereign, and of the princes with whom he is connected by alliances, without a treatife on political Geography ? Such books are the moft neceffary and indifpenfible in his library. But it may, perhaps, be objected againft this fcience, That defcriptions and maps are betrayers of the countries they reprefent, by fupplying minifters of ftate and Generals of armies with a know- ledge, which often proves very prejudicial to thofe countries. This pretend- ed objection has no appearance of reafon, unlefs fuch defcriptions are too explicit and circumftantial ; but in general is groundlefs and trifling. For never was a country conquered by means of a treatife on political Geogra- phy ; but power and conduct: are generally neceffary for the conqueft or de- fence of a ftate, though a juft knowledge of the Geography of the country to be attacked muft be of ufe to the affailant. When an enemy has once conquered a country, he will hardly be at a lofs to force it to contributions, nor to acquire an exact knowledge of its ability or riches, though he be not furnifhed with a geographical treatife in which thefe particulars are accurately defcribed. But fuppoling that geographical defcriptions fhould ferve the enemy as a guide into the dominions which they intend to attack, they may be of the fame fervice, not only to one or two, but to all fove- reigns and commanders ; fo that this advantage is general, and does not caufe, or promote, wars and invafions. However the fafety or danger of countries is far from depending on the political defcriptions of them, which in other refpects, are of great ufe and advantage to mankind. The Divine can neither fully underftand nor juftly explain the holy Scriptures, nor have his mind duly imprefled with a fenfe of God's power exhibited in his glo- rious works, nor make a proper difplay of thole works to others, if he be wholly unacquainted with Geography. The natural Philofopher may like- wife employ this fcience with uncommon advantage for his philofophical purpofes. To the Merchant, whofe commerce is of fo extenlive a nature, the knowledge of Geography muft be of indifpenfible neceffity. Laftly, what benefit may not a Traveller derive from a well written fyftem of Geography ? It will inform him of all the remarkable objects in every city and country, and confequently will point out to him all thofe places that are worthy of his notice and obfervation. In a word, Geography will prove an ufeful amufement to every curious and inquifitive mind. INTRO- INTRODUCTION T O GEOGRAPHY. CHAP. I. Of Geography m General. §. i.TT^Y Geography we underftand ■ An authentic and accurate i - ^ * account of the natural and civil ftate of the known parts of -*— ^ ' the Earth.' This definition contains two diftinguifhing cha- radteriftics of Geography. §. 2. One of thefe chara&eriftics relates to the object of Geography, which is, ' The natural and civil ftate of the known world.' Now as the Earth conftitutes but a part of the Univerfe, fo Geography is properly but a part of Cofmography, with which it is intimately connected, and is very much illuf- trated by it. Geography treats of the terraqueous Globe as far as it is known to us: For towards the north and fouth Poles are countries either unknown *, or of which we have fcarcely any further knowledge than that they mere- ly exift. The exiftence of other countries befides the known parts of the Earth is bare conjecture, as no certain account of them has been given, to this day. The known parts of the Earth are to be confidered as well in their ' natural as civil ftate.' In the natural defcription is comprehended, ßrfl, either the mathematical confideration of the Earth as it conftitutes a planetary orb, and under this head we examine its figure, magnitude, fitua- tion and proportion, &c. to the other bodies that conftitute the Univerfe 3 or, fecondly, the knowledge of what is moveable and immoveable upon and under the furface of the Earth, which we may denominate the proper pbffical Geography. Of both thefe I (hall hereafter treat more at large in diftinct chapters of this Introduction. As for the civil or political ftate of the Earth, we lhall confider its many and various civil conftitutions ; which we fliall not only examine in general, fo as to give the reader a juft notion of the extent, ftrength, inftitutions, forms of government, inhabitants, &c. of it j but alfo to defcribe what is peculiar to each mode of polity and govern- ment, with its ecclcfiaftical ftate ; and likewife the cities, towns, forts, caftles, villages, and other places and foundations that claim any attention. " Thefe unknown parts are called by Geographers Terra incognita Außralis, Borealis, &c. This Introduction A? Geography. This is the principal defign of my Geography or Dcfcription of the Earth ; and therefore any further preamble is unneceffary. §.3. The other diftinguifhing characferiftic in the above definition of Geography is, that it gives an ' authentic and accurate account' of all thefe particulars. Such an account may be either more concife, or more dif- fufe, according to the feveral plans laid down by different authors; but muft every where exclude all uninterefting and trifling particulars, which might fwell Books of this kind to an uncommon and unweildy fize, left more ufeful and important accounts be precluded by trivial iubjeds, mere empty words, indecent abufe, irony, farcafm, and religious difputes. Hence it appears that the more fignificant, expreffive, grave, and fimple the author's manner of writing, or the didion is, confiftently with perfpicuity and elegance, the better and the more ferviceable his geographical treatife may be deemed. But his endeavours to write in a concife and expreffive manner muft not derogate from the authenticity and accuracy of the ac- counts ; for a fyftem of Geography ought to contain more than a chart or map, with a bare lid: of names. The exadlnefs and authenticity of the accounts alfo require a proper arrangement or difpofition, which muft not be arbitrary, whimfical or capricious, but adapted to the conftitution of the feveral countries, and the fituation of their feveral parts and divifions, fo as to facilitate the knowledge of them to the reader. But the principal head of Authenticity confifts in the geographer's not framing defignedly any fictitious accounts, nor creduloufly taking up any fables on truft ; but, as well in the choice of the fources from whence he draws his accounts, as in the ufe of them, proceeding with caution and deliberation, fo that his fyftem of Geography may be as juft and authentic as poffible. His fources muft not be other general fyftems of Geography, but accurate defcriptions of lingle countries and provinces, and his own affiduous enquiries. Amon« the chorographical and topographical defcriptions he ought to give the pre- ference to fuch as have been executed on the fpot in thofe feveral coun- tries, by perfons of abilities and impartiality, with a proper degree of care ; and indeed he fhould not ufe any other accounts but thefe, whether they be printed or communicated to him in manufcript. And among thefe the later accounts are more ferviceable than the old ; but the latter fhould at the fame time be confulted and made ufe of. In examining thefe helps many tedious and irkfome critical enquiries muft be undertaken with un- wearied patience, and unremitting care and affiduity; either for difcoverino- truth amidft the darknefs, obfeurity, and doubt in which it may happen to be involved ; or, where the helps prove contradictory, to come as near it as poffible. The author's own diligent and cautious enquiries are likewife of great ufe ; and the opportunities for making fuch enquiries are to be as ad- vantageoufly employed, as they are eagerly to be fought after. 3 §-4- Ich- 8 Introduction to Geograph v. §. 4. Ichnographical descriptions of the Earth, which we call Maps, are an important and neceffary help to the knowledge of Geography. Thefe exhibit to the eye either both hemifpheres of the Earth, or the four princi- pal parts, or certain diftri&s of it. A collection of thefe maps is called an Atlas.' That fuch maps may be exact and ferviceable, the Situation of countries with refpedl to the cardinal points, their extent, and the diftance of places from each other fhould be accurately determined in them, by aftronomical obfervations carefully made, and by juft admeafurements and fcales, which mould be accompanied with authentic hiftorical accounts, as the bafis of the whole. The method of projecting or delineating maps ought like-wife to be juft and rational, fo as to exhibit a true repre- fentation of the Earth, and its greater and fmaller parts. According to the Inftitutes of the Cojmographical Society, the ftereographic projection on the horizontal plane is the beft adapted to that purpofe, as it bears the greateft refemblance to the fphere. When maps are delineated in great and fmall according to thefe rules, they are engraven on copper plates, printed off on paper or parchment, and carefully and neatly painted with various bright colours, to mark the limits and confines of adjoining countries that they may the better ftrike the eye. This manner of illuminating maps is called the methodical, and was firft attempted by "John Hubner the elder, and afterwards improved by Dr. E. D. Hauber, to whom we owe the firft illumination of the four parts of the world, according to the different reli- gions and languages of the inhabitants, and alfo of Germany. Laftly, this art was farther perfected by M. Schatz. It is not known for certain who was the firft inventor of geographical tables or maps. Eußathius relates, that Sefoflris, King of Egypt, caufed the countries he pafied through to be delineated in a chart, which muft have been the moft ancient map of any we read of. There feem, indeed, to be fome traces of a map in the holy Scriptures, namely, in Jofiua, chap, xviii. ver. 8, 9. In fucceeding ages the ancients, particularly the Greeks and Romans, delineated feveral other maps or charts. Antiquity has handed down to us only thofe maps which Agathodcemon made, to illuflrate Ptole- my s Geography, and the celebrated Peutinger's Table or map, which was found by Conrad Celtes, and purchafed by the learned Conrad Peutinger a Burgomafter of Augßurg, from whom it derives its name. This ancient map was published and explained by the celebrated Beatus Rhenanus and Marcus Velfirus. The laft furvivor of the Peutinger family difpofed of the original to Paul Kidjze, a bookfeller at Augßurg, in lieu of payment for fome books ; and Kuhze fold it to Prince Eugene of Savoy, after whofe death it came into the Emperor's library at Vienna, together with the prince's collection of books. Francis Chri'/hpher von Scheyb has delineated it more accurately than had been done before, on twelve copper-plates, which he publifhed in 1753 ; and this is the neweft and beft edition ofthat curious I ;j . ' D U C T I O N tO GEOGRAPHY. curious piece of antiquity. This Table is a map or delineation of a journey through Europe and Afia, beginning at Hercules'* pillars, and ending at the ocean which terminated the conquefts of Alexander the Great. This map feems to have been firft delineated in the fourth century after Chrift: But that of Vienna is not the original draught, as fome antiquarians ima- gine ; for the lhape of the letters refembles the Longobard or Monkifli hand, and the human figures are like thole we fee in old glafs windows, ÜV. fo that it is very probably of a more modern date than that mentioned above. It appears to be the very fame which the author of the Annale % Cülmarienfes delineated in the year 1265. Upon the revival of Arts and Sciences in the fixteenth century, the me- thod of delineating geographical tables or maps was cultivated among the reft. Thofe maps, which were inferted in the Manufcript of Ptolemy's Geo- graphy, are the bails and foundation of all that have been executed fince that time. Sebajlian Munjler laid thefe down as the ground-work, and by that means furnifhed others with a plan for delineating feparate maps of different countries, which Abraham Ortelius and Daniel Celbrins afterwards collected, and Gerhard Mercator reduced to a fyftem. This collection William and John Bleau, "John "Janßon and others, adopted as a foundation for maps ; till Sanfon delineated new maps, which were improved by Francis de Wit and the younger Vifcher, whofe maps the German geogra- phers copied, till more lately de l'Iße in France, and Herman Moll in England delineated new maps. The former began to pay a greater regard to aftro- nomical obfervations in his maps, and to ufe a better method of delineating than Sanfon and his fucceflbrs, which, however, is far from being the belt method, nor is it the fame in all his maps. Befides this inaccuracy, he had not fuffkient knowledge of the hiftorical accounts of countries. In Moll's maps the paper exceeds the workmanfhip : However, he, as well as de l'Iße, very much improved this art, for they both took quite a new and laborious method in delineating their maps. J. M. Haß fuccefsfully prolecuted, and rendered the reformation of maps, which de l'Iße had already began, more perfect. In delineating all his maps he has kept to the ftereographic projection which coincides with the Horizon, {o that the eye is fuppofed to be in the centre of the map, and all the remarkable places in a countrv directly oppofite to it. On his principles the Cofinographical Society at Gottingen now pro- ceed, whofe maps, publifhed by Hamann, may juftly difpute the preference, iji point of accuracy, with any that are extant, and therefore are the beft and moft ferviceable. M. D'anville contributes much to the improvement of maps in France. Since Maps or Geographical tables have been pub- lifhed, the feveral forts of general and particular maps are fuppofed to amount, at leaft, to 16,000; but of thefe not above 1700 are originals, all the reft being only copies. And as the former, for the moft part, are executed on a wrong plan, or are become ufelefs by reafon of their ancient date; it Vol. I. C appears io Introductions Geography. appears from hence how few accurate and ferviceable maps have been hi- therto publilhed. To be convinced of this, let any one but read Hamann* & propofals for the neceifary improvement of Cofmography, and for a new Academy to be erected on his plan, with the cofmographical accounts and collections for the year 1748, p. 348 & feq. As to the hiftory of general Maps, as well as thofe of particular countries, there is no better extant than M. Haueer's effay on a circumjlantial hiftory of Maps, his ufeful Dif- courfe on the prefent State of Geography, and his Thoughts on, and propofals for the befl and proper efi method of compiling a hi/lory of Geography. §. 5. The moft ancient geographers, whofe books are ftill extant, are Dionyjius Periegetes, Strabo, and Ptolemy. The firft has written a Greek poem on Geography. The feventeen books of the fecond on Geography contain many valuable hiftorical accounts and ufeful extracts of the belt hiftorical books of antiquity. The eight geographical books of the third are more concife and dry, but more accurately determine the fituation of the places therein mentioned, though not without a great many faults, which for the moft part are juftly to be attributed to the copiers of his work. Among the ancient Greek books on Geography, the following may alfo be reckoned: viz. that of Eujebius Pajnphilus, of Caferea in Palefline, on the names of the places mentioned in the holy Scriptures; the Geographical Lexicon of Stephanas Byzantinus, with Hermolaus's abridgement of it ; the twelve books by Cofmas Indopleuftez, as he is called, of the Chriftian Geo- graphy of the whole world 5 and other fmaller books and treatifes, pub- lished in four volumes by John Hudfon. Among the ancient geographical books written in Latin the moft ufeful are the following : Pomponius Mela deßtu orbis; Julii Solini polykißor, fc. ColleSlanea rerum memorabilium; Plinii Secundi hißoria naturalis ; the Itineraries afcribed to the Emperor Antoninus, and to JEthicus of IJlria > Vibius Sequester de ßuminibus, fontibus, lacubus, nemoribus, paludibus, montibus, gentibus. In the middle ages the following are the moft remark- able, viz. Adamannus de fituTerra fanSlez & quorundam aliorum locorum ; The Travels of the Monks John de Plato Carpini, Afcelinus, and William de Rubruc or Rubruquis into Afia in the 13th century; de regionibus orienta- nbus, lib. 3. by Marcus Paulus, of Ve?iice ; Jac. de Vitriaco hi- ßoria orientalis & occidentalis ; and the Travels of William- de Balden/el, Rud. de Framcynfperg, Anfelmus, Ludolph de Suchern, Breitenbach, John de Dujfeldorp, and John de Hefe, to Pale/line or the Holy Land. The moft famous Arabian geographers are Abu Abdallah Muhammed, Jfmael Abu I Feda, Safieddin Abdaltnumen Ebn Abdalhakki, NaJJir Eddin, and Ulug Bi'ig. The Jeivifh Geographers, are, Rabbi Benjamin Ben Jona of Tudela, R. Mofche Petachia, and R. Abraham Ben Mordechai Perizol. In fhort, feveral books of travels were written about the clofe of the 15th century : As thofe by John de Mandeville, both in Engliß and French, Introduction /ö Geography. ii Jof. Barbarus, Ambr. Contarenus, and Nie. di Conti in Italian, John Tücher, and Felix Faber in German. From the beginning of the 16th century Geography put on a better form, and was cultivated with greater care by feveral perfons of great fkill and abilities. Among thefe we have, 1. Modern Authors who have treated of the ancient Geography, as Abraham Ortelii Par ergon, fc. tabula vet er is Geographice; Petri Bert ji Geographia vetus ; Georgii Hornii accurat. orbis ant 7 qui de h ne- at 'io ; Christoph. Cellarii Geographia antiqua, & notitia orbis ant i qui ; Koler's Defcriptio orbis antiqui, and his Introduction to the Geography of the ancient and middle ages. 2. Others have attempted to connect the ancient and modern Geogra- phy together. Such are thofe who have illuftrated Ptolemy's geographical book with new maps and explanatory notes. Among thefe Servetus was one of the firffc and the principal author, and John Ant. Maginus one of the lateft ; whole Comment arins in Geographiam & tabulas Ptolemai, or the Geographia vetus & nova are by fome, through miftake, fuppofed to be two different treatifes. In this clafs may be ranked the following books : Cluverii IntrodulJio in Univerfdm Geographiam, tarn vet er em quam novam; Johan. Luyts Introd. ad Geographiam novam et veteran ; John Bapt. d'Audriffet's Geographie ancienne, moderne, & hi/lorique ; Noblot's Geographie univerjelle ; Lenglet du Fresnoy's w/Wi? pour etudier la Geographie, particularly the eighth book, in 4 volumes; Seb. Monster's Cojmography, or dejeription of all countries ; Peter d'Avity's E/lats, empires, roy-aume, & principautex du monde ; John Lud. Gottfried's (i.e. Abe/in) Archontologia cofmica ; Dr. Peter Heylin's Cfl/k^v^/n', Henry Wilson's Compleat univerfal hi/lory of the feveral dominions of the known world ; Pauli MeruljE Cofmographia generalis & particular is ; Sam. Purchas's Pilgri- mage, or Relations of the world; John Casp. Funken's and Christ. Benj. Hackhel's Univerfal new Cojmography ; and the Introduction to an- cient and modern Geography, exhibited in 37 maps by the Jefuit F. W. 3. Others have treated of modern Geography only, either In large volumes, among which the principal are thefe, viz. Job. Boters des Beneßrs's Univerfal Cojmography % tranüated from the Italian ; Lucä de Linda defcriptio orbis & rerum public arum ; Sanson d'Abbeville's Jphere du monde; Joh. Christoph. Becmanni Hifloria orbis terrarum geographica ■ & civilis; Denys Martineau du Plessi's Nouvelle Geographie, which is the ground-work of the Abbe Lenglet du Frejnoy's Methode pur etudier la Geographie ; J aco^. Robbe's Methode pour a p prendre facilement la Geographie ; Christian Wigand's Political Geography; Melissantes (i. e. Joh. Go:tfr. Gregorii) Geographia novifjima generalis, fpecialis & JpecialiJJima ; The com- pendious political defcription of the world; John Christian von Koli- chen & Rischtern's Dejeription of the whole world ; John Christian C 2 Mar- 12 Introduction to Geography. Martini's Introduction to the modern political Geography; Joh. Hubner's the younger Compleat Geography, which is alio inierted in Jon. Häger's Sxßem of Geography ; Joh. Jac. Schätzen 's Atlas Homannianus illu/lratus; Jo. Tomka Szaszky's Introduclio in crbis hodierni Geographiam ; and the new Political and itinerary Geography of Europe. Or in [matter volumes, or abridgments, the principal of which is that by Cluverius, who in the former part of the laft century was almoft the only one who reduced Geography into a Syftem. The following Authors alfo wrote compendiums of Geography: Peter Bertha, Jo. Matth. Mcyfart, Abrah. Goeinitzen, Eberh. Schult, Tob. Wagner, Joh. Buno, Chrijhph. Cel- lar ins, Pietro di Falk, Joh. Jac. Martin, Nie. de Fer, John Hubner, Joh. Dav. Kocler, Gotthilf Werner, Hier. Freyer, Joh. Jac. Schätzen, &c. 4. Laftly, we mud not omit the geographical Dictionaries ; as Abrah. Ortelii Thefaurus geographica ; Phil. Ferrarii Lexicon geographica//! ; Mich. Ant. Baudrand's Geographia ordine literarum difpofita ; Franc. Thom. Corneille's DiStionaire Unrcerfel, geographique & hijlorique; Alph. Lazoris a Varea Univerfus orbis terrarum fcriptorum calamo deh- neatus; AugustinBruzen laMartiniere's Grand Diftionaire geogra- phique & critique ; and The complete Lexicon of the ancient, middle, and mo- dern Geography, published at Leipfick in 1729. To thefe maybe added the Lexicon, publifhed with a preface by Hubner, entitled The Real Geogra- phical and Political Lexicon. The number of Travels, and chorographical and topographical Defcriptions is fo confiderable, as not to admit of a place here. Thefe are daily in- creafing, as, in this century, a peculiar tafte for Geography prevails ; and fuch a reigning tafte is highly neceffary and advantageous for the im- provement of this Science. CHAP. II. Of Mathematical Geography. §. 6. TV/T Athematical Geography confiders the Earth as one of the bodies ■*■**■ that conftitute the Univerfe, and inveftigates its figure, magni- tude, and fituation in the fyftem of the World, with other particulars be- longing to it. §. 7. Scarce any figure can be thought of, which has not been afcribed to the Earth : But that it is round, or nearly refembling a globe, the lunar eclipfes plainly demonftrate. For thefe being caufed by the Earth's fhadow, whofe fection on the difk of the moon is in all politions round or circular, we may conclude that the Earth itfelf rauft be of that form ; fince none but a fphe- Introduction/«? Geography. 13 a fpherical body is capable of throwing or projecting a round fliadow on a lurface diredtly öppofed to it, in all the different pofitions of the light which produces that fliadow. The great number of high mountains on the fur- face of the Earth are no obftacle to its being of a fpherical figure, as their bulk is very inconfiderable when compared to the magnitude of the terra- queous globe ; nor can they be any impediment to the roundnefs of the Earth's fhadow in the eclipfes of the moon. §. 8. In confirmation of this figure of the Earth, a variety of appearances might be alledged, which at the fame time are illuftrated and rendered in- telligible by that fuppofition. If we travel from north to fouth the fouthern ftars rife above the Horizon, and the northern ftars fink under it. The fame thing happens, vice verfd, when we travel from fouth to north ; and is fir ft oblcrvablc in the polar ftar, which riles about a degree above the Horizon, on approaching 1 5 German or geographical miles* from the Equator towards the north Pole. If we travel 15 geographical miles from weft to eaft under the Equator, we alfo find that the fun and ftars rife there an hour fooner than at the place from which we fet out; and in- general, experience teaches us that thofe people who live towards the eaft fee the fun and ftars rife fooner than thofe to the weft, the reafen of which can be no other than the fpherical figure of the Earth. This is alfo further con- firmed by the experience of navigators and travellers, who fee the tops of high towers, mountains, and mafts of fhips at a considerable diftance, while the lower parts of fuch objects are ftill hid under the Horizon. It is alfo owing to this orbicular figure of the Earth that the eclipfes and other phe- nomena in the heavens anfwer to the time calculated beforehand. Laftlv, we may hence conclude that it is poffible to fail round the world ; an at- tempt which has already been feveral times undertaken. The firft who undertook fuch a voyage was Ferdinand Magellan, a Portuguese: And though he was killed on the ifland of Sebu, one of the Phi- lippines, in a fkirmifh with the Indians, before he completed his expedition ; yet one of the five fhips, with which he failed from Seville, Aug. 10, 1519, returned again Sept. 7, 1522, into the harbour of St. Lucar near Seville, after having finifhed the voyage round the world in three years and twenty- eight days. The fecond who performed a voyage round the globe was Sir Francis Drake, an Eng/ißman, who fet fail from Plymouth November 15, 1577; but being obliged to put back again by a ftorm, he fet fail a fecond time Dec. 13, and arrived at the fame harbour, after he had completed his voyage, Sept. 16, 1580. * The Author means one degree of Latitude which is equal to 15 German, which we fiiall call geographica/ miles. The 14 Introduction /ö Geography. The third was 'Thomas Cavendifo, who was likewife a native of England : He fet fail on July 21, 1586, from Plymouth, and returned thither again Sept. 9, 1588. The fourth was Simon de Cordes, a Hollander, who undertook this voyage in 1590. The fifth was Oliver van Noort, who was alfo a Hollander : He fet fail from Rotterdam Sept. 13, 1598, and returned to the fame place Aug. 22, 1601. The fixth was George Spielbergen, a German, who fet fail Aug. 8, 16 14, and returned again to Holland "July 1, 16 17. The feventh was William Cornelius Schonten, a Hollander, who left the Texel, June 14, 1615, and came into it again in July, 1617. The voyage round the world was undertaken the eighth time bv the Duch Admirals Joe I'Mermite and Joh. Hugo Schapenham, who fet fail from Goeree in South-Holland, April 29, 1623, and arrived in the Texel on July 9, 1626. The ninth who made this voyage was William Dampier, an Englißman, who fet fail in 1689, and returned to England in 1691. The tenth was Giovanni Francefco Gemelli Carere, an Italian, who em- barked June 13, 1693, and returned in 1698. The eleventh was Edward Cooke, an Englijhman, who was on the voy- age from 1708, to 171 1. The twelfth was Woodes Rogers, an Englißman, who failed from Brijloi June 15, 1708, and returned in 171 1. The thirteenth was Gentil de la Barbinais, who was on his voyage round the world from 171 5 to 17x8. Clipperton and Shelvocke who left England, their native country, Feb. 13. 17 1 9, undertook this voyage the fourteenth time. The former arrived at Galloway in Ireland about the beginning of June, and the latter at London, Aug. I, 1J22. The fifteenth was Roggewein, a Dutchman, who failed out of the Texel, July 16, 1721 } and returned to the fame place, July 11, 1723. The fixteenth and laft that we know of was George Anjon, an Englijh- man, who fet fail from St. Helen's, * Sept. 18, 1740, and arrived at Spit- head, June 15, 1744. All thefe voyages were performed fouthwards, round America, through the South-Sea, and round the Cape of Good Hope. §. 9. But, notwithstanding thefe voyages, the exacl: figure of the Earth was not accurately known : For about the clofe of the laft century the Learned began to difpute, whether it was depreffed, or elevated, towards the Poles. Huygens and Sir Ifaac Newton maintained the former, and * The Author through miftake fays St. Helena ; whereas Lord Jnfin failed from St. Helen's road near Portfmoutb. 5 Ei fi n - Introduction to Geography. 15 Eifenfchmid and Cajfini infifted on the latter hypothefis. This difpute con- tinued for above fifty years; and at length proper perfons were lent by the Royal Academy of Sciences at Paris, at the French king's expence, fome to the north Polar Circle, and others to the Equator, in order to decide this affair by meafuring at each place a degree of the Meridian ; fo that by comparing one of thefe degrees with a degree in France, and the two for- mer with each other, the figure of the Earth might be determined as accu- rately as was poffible. The Party which went to the north confifted of MefT. Maupertuis, Clairaut, Camus, Le Mourner, and Outhier, who were pined by M. Cljius a profeffor of the univerfity of Upfal. They fet out from Paris, April 20, 1736, and arrived at Tornea, June 20. They fet about their menfurations in the neighbourhood of the latter, and returned to Paris, Anguß 19, 1737. The company which went to Quito in fouth America confiffed of Meff. Godin, Bouguer, and de la Condamine, who were natives of France; and thefe were joined at Carthagena by two Spaniards, namely, Antonio de Ulloa, and George Juan. The French Academicians fet fail May 1 6, and the Spaniards May 26, 1735, and finifhed their obfervations in 1744. The company that went to the north, fet out, indeed, after the latter; but completed their obfervations before them. Accordingly they informed the Public, that a degree of the Meridian, interfering the Polar Circle is much greater than a degree of the Meridian in France ; the former containing 57,437 rods, and the latter, according to Picard's determination, but 57,060 ; that the gravity of bodies increafes confiderably towards the Polar Circle ; and that we dwell on a Jpheroid which is deprefied at the Poles. This was confirmed by the admeafurements of the American company, who found, that a degree of the Meridian under the Equator contained 56,753 rods ; and Meff. Bouguer and de la Condamine 's computation differed but 1 8 toifes * from that made by the Spaniß officers along with M. Godin. The obfervations of both companies were alfo at length confirmed by the difcoveries which M. Caßni de Thury, and the Abbe de la Caille afterwards made. The latter meafured the 36th degree of fouth Latitude at the Cape of Good Hope, and found it greater than an Equatorial degree, but lefs than a degree at the north Polar Circle. Thefe laudable attempts, it is true, were attended with fome difappointments and difficulties ; however, we now know (o much for certain, that the Earth is higher at the Equator than it is at the Poles, and that the Diameter of the Equator to the Axis of the Globe is as 178 to 177 nearly. Sir Ifaac Newton computed the ratio to be as 230 to 229 ; fo that according to that Philofopher, the Earth un- der the Line is higher by about 3 4- geographical miles, than it is under the Poles ; but by later difcoveries the difference amounts to fomething more than 10 geographical miles. -j~. * A toifi is equal to fix feet. + What the Author calls a geographical, is a common German mile, 1 5 of which are equal to a degree o[ the Equator, as I obferved above. §. 10. This 1 6 Introduction to G e o g r a v w v. §. io. This difcovery of the true figure of the Earth is attended with' great advantages. It exhibits a frefh proof of the Earth's turning or revolv- ing upon its Axis; fets the Theory of Gravity in a new light; ferves to improve the art of Levelling; greatly contributes to the determining of the moon's Parallax, and is of great importance to Geography and Navigation. To mention only the two lad; in Geography as well as Navigation, the principal thing is, to know the exact fituation of different countries and fea- coafts with refpect to each other, and the place of a (hip on the vaft Ocean. And for this purpofe it is neceffary that we fliould be provided with accu- rate maps and fea charts, exhibiting the true fituation of places with their north or fouth Latitude, and eaft or weft Longitude. Thefe particulars cannot be known, without being acquainted with the length of every degree of the Parallel Circles in miles, or leagues, which muff be calculated accord- ing to the true magnitude and figure of the Earth. Andrew Cel/ins, in the Memoirs of the Swedifi) Academy of Sciences, has (hewn by feveral Inftances, that fuch incidents may happen in Navigation, when for want of the necef- fary knowledge of the true figure of the Earth, life and goods may be in dan- ger of being loft. For example, on failing eaft or weft of a certain place in 45° of Latitude, fome rocks, fhoals, or fand-banks are to be avoided, about 8° 30' from that place ; but if we follow Caß'ni's table of degrees (who at the 45th degree of Latitude makes every degree of Longitude fhorter by 645 toifes than it really is) we might imagine ourfelves at the diftance of a Swedifi mile from a rock, at the inftant we were going to be wrecked upon it. In the fame manner when we would fail north or fouth on a cer- tain Meridian from a place that lies under the Equinoctial Line (where Cajfmi makes the firft degree of Latitude 1395 toifes larger than it really is) we know from the chart that in the 8th degree of Latitude we are to fteer weftward in order to make a certain harbour or bay: But by CaJJinis tables we (hould imagine ourfelves to be juft before the harbour, when we were two Swedißo miles fhort of it; and by altering our courfe, run foul of land and rocks, at the time we apprehended that we were in the mouth of the harbour ; efpecially if the weather fliould be fo cloudy as to give us no opportunity of obferving the fun or ftars. §. 11. Before we can determine the circumference of the Earth, we muft previoufJy defcribe certain meafures which are ufed in different parts of the world. The moft remarkable and beft known among thefe are the Rhinland, the E??glifi, and the royal French foot ; the mutual ratio or pro- portion of which to each other is as follows : 29 French are equal to 30 Rhinland feet ; 15 French are equal to 16 E?iglifi feet; and 225 Rhinland feet are equal to 232 Eng/iß feet. Hence it appears that the French is the largeft, and the Engli/Jj foot the leaft of all the three. A geometrical, or rather a geographical pace contains 5 4-ri4 Rloinland feet, or 6 ^^44 Engliß feet. As the Earth is fpherical (§. 7.) we may imagine a circle going quite round I N T R O D U C T I O N to G E O G R A P IJ y. jj round it, which like all circles in Geometry we may divide into 360 equal parts or degrees, every degree into 60 minutes, and, confequently, the whole circle into 21,600 minutes. That diftance on the Earth, which conftitutes Tuch a minute, contains 1000 geometrical paces. §. 12. The Curious from the earlieft ages have attempted to determine the circumference of the Earth ; but among the moderns Norwood found it to be 132,190,560 Englißj feet Picard — — 131,466,240, Cqßni — — 132,000,768. By Cqßni's calculation, which has gained the greateft credit among geo- graphers, the diameter of the Earth is 42,017,145 |f?. Engliß feet. Now as we generally reckon a degree in a great circle of the Earth to be equal to 1 5 German, or rather geographical miles * ; the whole circumference of the circle which we fuppofe to encompafs the earth rnuft amount to 5400 fuch miles. To a geographical mile, we muft allow 24,444 *4 Engliß) feet, which are equal to 23,611 Rbinland, or 22,824 royal Paris feet. The diameter of the Earth according to the common calculation is 1720 geographical miles, and confequently the whole furface of the Earth is 9,288,000 iquare geographical miles, and its folid contents 2,662,560,000 cubic geographical miles. According to the new difcoveries made of the true figure of the Earth (§. 9.) thefe calculations are fomewhat deficient. §. 13. As to the fituation of the Earth with refpecf to the other bodies that conftitute the Univerfe there are three principal opinions concerning it. Ptolemy imagined its place to be exaclly in the centre of the Univerfe, where he fuppofed it to be fixt and immoveable. Next to the Earth he placed 1. The Moon. 2. Mercury.' 3. Venus. 4. The Sun. 5. Mars: 6. Jupiter. 7. Saturn, and laftly the fixt ftars, in cryftalline orbs. This opinion is very abiurd, and proved contradictory to experience. True Af- tronomy ihews us a quite different fituation and difpolition of the parts of the Univerfe ; and the comets, which in their courfe interfeel the orbits of all the planets, plainly demonftrate that the circles in which the planets per- form their revolutions, and that wherein the fixt ftars feem to move, do not confift of any folid matter. Tycho Brake attempted to improve the Ptolemaic Syftem. He left the Earth immoveable in the centre of the World. Round it he made the Moon and Sun to perform their revolutions; but fuppofed that Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter, and Saturn moved round the Sun as their centre. Laftly he made the Earth, not the Sun, the centre of the fixt ftars. But from this intricate and abfurd fyftem we can afiign no reaibns for the celeftial phenomena ; and therefore Aftronomers juftlv reject it. Nicolas Copernicus revived an ancient Hypothecs concerning the Syftem of * We fhall ufe thefe Geographical miles, as the author calls them, in the Translation, fihee they will render calculations eafier, than if they were reduced to Englijb miles. Vol. I. D the i8 Introduction/«? Geography. the World, which he propofed in a more diftincl: and clear manner than the Pythagoreans had done before, and compared with the celeftial appear- ances. This Hypothecs has been adopted, improved, and confirmed by the greateft and moft judicious of the modern Aftronomers. According to Copernicus the Sun, indeed, does not occupy the very centre of the fyltem, fince this luminary, as well as all the planets, moves round the common centre of gravity*; yet it is placed fo near that centre that it may very properly be fuppofed to be fixed in it. It takes up between 27 and 28 davs in revolving about its axis. The planets move round the fun , and thofe which lie near it, having but a fmall fpace to run through, finilh their period fooner than thofe that are at a greater diftance from it. During their revolutions they alfo turn conftantly about their own axes. Next to the Sun is Mercury; then follows Venus ; then the Earth, round which the moon, as afecondary planet, per- forms its revolution ; then comes Mars ; after this Jupiter with its four moons or fatellites ; and laft of all Saturn, with five moons revolving about it. The fixt ftars are immoveable, being placed far above the planets in the expanfe -j- of heaven ; but we may reasonably conclude that they turn round their own axes. From this regularly difpofed fyftem, every phe- nomenon, with regard to the revolutions of the planets, may be eafily ac- counted for. As the Earth revolves on its axis in 24 hours, the fun, pla- nets, and fixt ftars feem to move round the Earth; become fuccefiively vifi- ble on our Horizon ; and are obferved to rife and fet. This may ferve as an anfwer to an ill grounded objection, which fome make againft the Coper- nie an Syftem from fuch exprefTions being ufed in the holy Scriptures J, The Earth in the fpace of a year revolves in the Ecliptic round the Sun, which makes the fun feem to move in the fame fpace of time through the twelve celeftial Signs, into which the Ecliptic is divided. For farther par- ticulars on this fubject the reader mud have recourfe to Aftronomy. §. 14. Notwithstanding the Copernican hypothefis concerning the Syftem of the World has lb much probability on its fide ; yet in explaining the principles of Geography we fuppofe the Earth to be placed in the centre of the Univerfe and of all the celeftial circles. In this fuppofition we are guilty of no great error : For though the Earth is not fixed in the centre of the * Aftronomers fuppofe that the centre of the folar Syftem does not coincide with the centre of the Sun ; but that the former is, however, in the body of that luminary. f The ward firmament in the original is rendered expanfe here, as the former conveys an idea of firmnefs or folidity, was invented by falfe Philofophy, and might miflead the learner. The LXX. in translating the Pentateuch rendered the Hebrew word y pi an Ex- panfe, by crTf^ajjM a firmament in conformity to the erroneous philofophy of the Greeks. But i'uch a word is inconiiftent with true Aftronomy, and fhould not be ufed in fuch trcatifes as this. % We fay in common convcrfation, and even in theological and hiftorical books, the fun, or the moon, rifes and fets, Is'c. in compliance with the common conceptions of mankind ; and indeed it would be ridiculous to cxprefs ourfch'es otherwife, unlcfs it be in philofophical trcatifes. Univerfe, I N r R O 13 U C T I O J\ /• e. Having fhadows on both fides. X i- e. Calling fhadows all round. || /'. e. Calling fhadows one way. night, Introduction to Geography. qi night, when we have day. When the fun rifes with us it fets with them, and when it fets with us it rifes with them. Whoever confiders that the Earth is fpherical ; that men and other things on its furface have, by di- vine appointment, a perpendicular direction, or gravitate to the Earth's centre ; and that voyages have often been performed round the Globe (§. 8.) can have no manner of doubt about the exiftence of Antipodes. In- deed the oppofite points of the Globe to feveral particular places are in the ocean ; however, fhips often fail in thofe parts. §. 36. The inhabitants of thofe places that lie in the fame half of the Meridian (§. 18), and confequently have the fame Longitude, and are alfo equidiftant, towards the north or fouth Pole, from the Equator, are called Antioeci *. Thefe are therefore diftinguifhed as hiving quite contrary fea- fons ; for when it is fummer in one of thefe places, it is winter in the other. Thofe who live under the Equator have no Antioeci. §. 37. Thofe who live in the fame Parallels, and confequently in the fame northern or fouthern Latitude, but in oppofite parts of the fame Me- ridian, or whofe Longitude differs juft 180° are called Perioeci. They are in the fame Zone and Climate, and their feafons and length of days are exactly the fame ; but they reckon their hours differently. For example, when in one of thefe places it is 12 at noon, in the other it is midnight ; and when in the former it is 3 in the afternoon, in the latter it is 3 o'Clock in the morning. If there are any inhabitants under the Poles, they have no Perioeci. §. 38. That part of the Horizon where the fun rifes, is called the Eaft, and that part where it fets is termed the Weft ; where the fun is at noon is called the South, and that part oppofite to the laft, we call the North. Thefe are the four principal or cardinal Points of the World, which by the Hol- landers are called Oft, Weft, Sud, and Nord. They are belt pointed out by drawing an accurate Meridian-Line, / e. a line, one extremity of which points due South and the other due North ; but they are commonly found by the Compafs. On account of the variety of winds, and for the conve- niency and improvement of navigation, fmaller divifions have been made between thefe cardinal points, which are called collateral, and have their names from the two principal adjoining points ; but of the latter the fouth and north are firft named. Thefe are called South-Eaft, South-Weft, North- JVeß, North-Raft. The arches of the Horizon lying between thefe 8 points are fub-divided into 2 equal parts ; and in the middle are placed thefe eight collateral points, viz. South-South-Weft, Weft-South-Weft, Wefi- North-Weft, North-North-Weft ; North-North-Raft, Raft -North-Raft, Raft- South-Raft, South-South-Raft. And laftly, the arches of the Horizon be- tween thefe 16 equal parts are once more bifected, which conftitute the • From »«T! and oi'xi*, /. e, dwelling over againft each other, 16 foU 32 , T R O D U C T I O N tO G E O G R A P H V. 1 6 following collateral points ; viz. South-by-Weß ', Soutb-IFß-bv-Soutb, South-Weß-by-Weß, Weß-by-Soutb, Weß-by-North, North-Weß-by-Weß, Nor th-V/efi-by -North, Nortfj-by-Wcß ; North- by -Eaß, North-Ealt-by-Nortb, North-Eaß-by-Eaß, Eaß-by -North, Eaß-by-Soutb, South-Eaß-by-Eaß, Soutb-Eaß-by-Sou'b, Sou:h-by-Eaß. Thefe 32 points are beft known from the Manners Compafs. §. 39. As G< graphers, when they have maps lying before them, al- ways turn their faces to the North, they call the Eaft the right fide of the Earth, and Weft the left fide of it. When they want to point out the right or left fide of a river, they turn their faces towards its fource ; and then they denominate that bank of the river which lies to their right, the right fide and that to the left, the left fide of the river. This is what they mean when, for example, they fay Hamburg lies on the left, and Meißen on the right fide of the Elbe. §. 40. As the Earth is fpherical (§. 7.) it may be very eafily reprefented in miniature by an artificial round ball. The fpheroidal figure of the Earth (§. 9.) cannot conveniently be exhibited by fuch a ball or Globe j and therefore it is made exactly round or fpherical. Who the firft inventor of a Terreftrial Globe was, we are not certain. The accounts of artificial Globes given by ancient authors are collected by J. A. Fabricius in his Biblioth. Grceca lib. iv. c. 14 ; with which the reader may compare D. Member's Hiftory of Maps, p. 57, and the Appendix to it, p. 38, where many hiftorical hints about Terreftrial Globes are to be met with. If the conjecture advanced by both thefe Authors (namely, that the chapiters of the two pillars in Solomon's temple mentioned in 1 Kings- ch.vii, v. 16 — 20, were Globes) be probable, thofe muft have been the moft ancient of which we have any account. According to Diodorus Siculus, Atlas King of Mau- ritania was the firft who conftructed a Sphere. This gave rife to the ficti- tious ftory which was related of that monarch, namely, that he bore up the Heavens on his moulders, and that he was metamorphofed to a high mountain of the fame name. As to the Terreftrial Globes made in more modern times, the firft are thofe executed by Mart. Bebaim and Fraca/lo- rius. The Globe made by the former is ftill to be feen in the Behaim fa- mily at Nurenberg, and is but little regarded at prefent. The next after thefe were made by Jod. Hondius the elder, Will. Bleau, and P. Coronelli ; but thofe made by Gerb. Valken were the moft common. After thefe, other Globes that were far more accurate, were publifhed by De l'Iße and Moll. Erhard Weigel, Job. Beyer, J. L. And.re, and J. G. Doppkmayer have pub- lifhed new terreftrial globes in Germany, which were delineated by Job. Geo. Pufchner *. At this time Profeffor Lowitz at Gottingen is making a pair of * It is a wonder the author partes over in filence our ingenious countryman, the late Mr. Setiex, whole Globes arc fo much admired for their beauty and corredhiefs. Globes, Introduction /o G e o g r a p h y. 33 Globes, three Paris feet in diameter, which will be more accurate than any thing of that kind that has hitherto appeared in the world. At Elbing in PruJ/ia J. P. Enderfl) has been employed for fome time on a pair of beautiful new Globes. Some Terreftrial Globes of an extraordinary fize and value have been made by ingenious artifts from time to time. The firft among thefe was that made by the heirs of W. Blcau between the years 1645 and 1 650, which is 7 Englijh feet in diameter, and is now to be feen at Petersburg. The next to this was a Globe begun by Andr. Büß, at the command of Fre- deric 111. duke of Holflein Got torp in 1654, under the infpeclion of Ad. Olea- rius, which was not finifhed till 1664. Thefe extraordinary Globes are defcribed in this Work under the articles Gottorp and Petersburg. After this Cardinal d'Etrecs caufed a pair of Globes to be made by P. Coronelli for Lewis XIV. which are ] 2 Paris feet in diameter. They were begun in the year 1683, and are ftill to be feen in the French king's library at Paris. The earl of Caßlemain and E. Weigel alfo cauie3 large Globes of an un- common fize to be made. §.41. A Terreftrial Globe exhibits on its furface not only the dry Land, the feas, the moft extenfive lakes, principal rivers, cities and towns, in proportion to their magnitude, with their fituation and diftance from each other ; but alfo the feveral Points and Circles, which mathematicians have imagined on the Earth, and have been defcribed above. Whoever there- fore would form a diftindt notion of the Earth, and rightly underftand the mathematical part of Geography explained above, muft procure a good Terreftrial Globe. In and upon the furface of fuch an artificial Globe he will find the terreftrial Axis and Poles (§. 14), the Equator (§. 17), a Meridian Circle divided into 4 Quadrants, which is commonly made of brafs ; befides a Meridian line drawn (§. 18) on the Globe itfelf at every 5 or 10 degrees of Longitude, and alio a Parallel Circle (§. 23) at every 5 or 10 degrees of Latitude ; the Ecliptic (§. 25), the Tropics (§. 25), the Polar Circles (§. 26), and the Horizon (§. 16). The laft is commonly made of wood, and is fupported by four feet. The globe ftands in this wooden Horizon, in which the brazen Meridian is inferted. The Zones (§.27 — 30), the Climates (§. 3 1), the Right, Parallel, and Oblique Spheres (§. 32 — 34), the Antipodes (§. 35), Antioeci (§. 36), Perioeci (§• 37)'" an( ^ f evera l other particulars are beft explained by fuch an artificial Globe. Round the North-Pole there is a fmall horary Circle of brafs, di- vided into twice 12 hours, with an index which may be turned round the Axis of the Earth and fixt at any particular hour. On the wooden Horizon are alfo to be feen the 32 Points of the Compafs and a Calendar. In order to place the Terreftrial Globe according to the Cardinal Points a Compafs is neceffary, or when there is none affixed to the pedeital of the Globe we draw a Meridian Line on the table, by the help of a pair of compaffes, and fet the Terreftrial Globe in fuch a manner over it, that the brazen Meridian Vol. I F Circle 34 Introduction to Geography. Circle may coincide with that line ; and then the Globe ftands in a right polition. I mall here adduce the chief problems which may be folved by the Terreftrial Globe. §. 42. In order to find the Latitude (or the elevation of the Pole) of any given place on the Terreftrial Globe, you mutt bring it under the bra- zen Meridian ; and on the degrees of the latter you will find the diftance of the place from the Equator, which is the thing fought for (§. 20). By reckoning on the Equator the number of degrees from Weft to Ealt be- tween the firft Meridian (§. 19) and the brazen Meridian, you have alfo the Longitude of the place. §. 43. In order to rectify the Terreftrial Globe according to the actual Horizon of any place, we firft find out the Latitude of the place (§. 42) ; then we reckon as many degrees as it comes to, on that quarter of the bra- zen Meridian which is on the other fide of the North Pole *, and fix the degree of Latitude, when found, at the northern edge of the Horizon. After this we bring the place under the brazen Meridian ; and the wooden Horizon fhews the actual Horizon of the given place. §. 44. As on the wooden Horizon of the new Terreftrial Globes the davs and months according to the new ftile -j- are fet down as well as the courie of the fun; in order to find the fun's place in the Ecliptic (§. 25) for anv given day, we need only look for that day of the month on the wooden Horizon, and obferve what degree of the celeftial Sign ftands over againft it, and it will fhew the place of the fun for that day, which was the thing required. For example, to day being the 2d of April, I look for it on the wooden Horizon ; and I find over againft it the 14th degree o£ Aries, which is the fun's place in the Ecliptic for that day. If it happens to be leap year, after the 24th of February we mult always add one to the dav of the month. §. 45. In order to find when the fun rifes and lets, on any given day, vou rectify the Globe according to the Horizon of the place (§. 43) ; or, which is the fame thing, you give it its proper elevation of the Pole, and bring the place under the brazen Meridian. Then you leek for the fun's place in the Ecliptic for that day on the wooden Horizon (§. 44), and when you have found the fame in the Ecliptic on the Globe, bring it under the brazen Meridian. After this you mult hold the globe fteady, and place the index of the horary circle at xn. but it mult not be the inferior \ n. or that which lies below the North Pole, but that above it towards the Zenith. Then you fet your finger or a pin at the fun's place in the Ecliptic, and turn the Globe round till it comes down to the wooden Ho- rizon on the ealt, and welt fide of the Globe ; and the index of the horary * It is here fuppofed that the globe is placed Recording to the cardinal points (■§. 41) and that your face is turned towards the north. f The calendar of the Englijb globes exhibits both the old and new flilc on the wooden Horizon. Circle Introduction to Geography. Circle fhews, by the former the rifing, and by the latter, the fetting of the fun. If you double the hour of the fun's rifing, you have the length of the night, and if you double the hour of its fetting, you have the length of the day in the given place. §. 46. By knowing the hour of the day in any given place, in order to know what o'clock it is in other parts of the world, you bring the given place under the graduated edge of the brazen Meridian ; then hold the Globe fteady, and fot the index of the horary Circle to the hour of the day at the given place. After this you rnuft bring the other places required under the brazen Meridian, and obferve what hour the index points out at each place, which will give you the hour of the day at thofe feveral places. §. 47. In order to find in what places the fun on any given day is vertical at noon, you muft firft feek the fun's place on the wooden Horizon (§. 44), and then in the Ecliptic delineated on the Globe ; which you muft bring under the brazen Meridian, and mark the degree ftanding over it on the graduated edge : After this you muft turn the Globe round, and the places fought are all thofe which pafs under the degree you have marked on the brazen Meridian. §. 48. The hour of the day at any place being known, you may find all thofe places on the Globe where it is noon at the fame inftant by bring- ing the given place under the brazen Meridian, then placing the index on the hour of the day at the given place, and afterwards turning the Globe till the index points to 12 o'clock. This being done, you will find all thofe places, where it is noon at that inftant, lying under the brazen Meridian: §. 49. To find the oppofite point on the Globe to any place, you brino- the given place under the brazen Meridian, and fet the index at the fuperior xii. or noon. Then you turn the Globe round, till the index points at the inferior xn. or midnight. After this you muft reckon on the brazen Meri- dian from the Equator towards the fouth an equal number of degrees to the Latitude of the given place ; and at the end of thefe degrees under the me- ridian, you have the oppolite point to the given place ; and confequentlv the Antipodes of its inhabitants *. ' The Author fuppofes the given place to he in a northern Latitude On the contrary, if the given place be fouth of the Equator, irs oppofite point is to be found as many decrees north of the Equator, as the Latitude of the given place comes to. 3S F 2 CHAP. 36 Introduction ft? Geography. CHAP. III. Of the Natural State of the Earth, or Physical Geography. §. 50. ^T"^ H E defcription of the natural ftate of our Earth is of great im- -*• portance, and attended with no fmall pleafure, but as yet is very imperfect. I fhall, however, briefly defcribe it according to the mod accurate difcoveries that have been hitherto made ; which may ferve to give a general idea of what is moveable and immoveable, both upon and under the furface of the Earth ; and alfo to explain what phyfiqal remarks may be met with in the defcription of particular countries in the following iheets. Of the E a r t h's Atmosphere. §.51. The Earth is encompaffed with the Air; but this is not fo pure and fubtle as JEther ; for it is charged with vapours, or heterogeneous particles detached from the land, but principally from the water, which renders it denfer, and lefs pure than the latter. Hence it is called the Atmofphere of the Earth; and is fuppofed to extend 9 or 10 geographical miles in height, as it ceafes to refract the folar rays at that diftance from the Earth. The denfity of the Atmofphere decreafes in proportion to its height. It is divided into three Regions. The loweft Region extends from the Earth's furface as far as that part of it where the air is not warmed by the folar rays, reflected from the Earth. This Region is confequently the warmeft ; but we do not know exactly to what diftance from the Earth's furface this Region extends. The middle Region reaches from the loweft Region to the fummits of the higheft mountains ; or even as far as the higheft clouds, which may befeen floating in the air fcveral fathoms lower than the tops of fome very high mountains, as the Cordilleras in Peru. The middle Region is much colder than the loweft, as it is only warmed by the direct rays of the Sun paffing through it. The third and higheft Region extends from the middle Region to the extremity of the Atmofphere ; but its limits are as uncertain as thofe of the Atmofphere itfelf. It is, pro- bably, far colder than the two other Regions, as the reflected folar rays have ftil) lefs influence on it than they have on the two former. §. 52. The particles exhaled from the Earth into the Atmofphere are of various fpecies ; fome being aqueous, fome terrene; others metallic, others- again fulphureous, and others faline, &c. Now, in fome parts of the Earth one fort, and in others another fpecies of particles are more copi- oufly Introduction to Geograph v. oufly exhaled ; hence arifes a great difference in the temperature of the Air, often obfervable in places at no very great diftance from each other. A denfe heavy air is more conducive to health than a rare or light air ; for, in the former, the circulation of the blood and the imperceptible perfpira- tion are more eafily performed than in the latter. When the air is heav\ it is generally clear ; but a light air is always accompanied with fogs, rain, or fnow, fo that it is at the fame time moid. The exhalations help to increafe the weight or preffure of the Air; and in very hot weather, when they mount to a great height, the Air, notwithstanding the aqueous va- pours with which it is charged, is very dry. Too great a degree of drinefs very much waftes the juices in the human body, and confequently is ex- tremely prejudicial to its health : This, indeed, happens only in very dry and fandy defarts. A moift Air is very hurtful to the human body ; as it relaxes the fibres, obftructs infenfible perfpira'ion, and, if it be warm at the fame time, renders the juices liable to putrefaction. The warmth of the Air rarefies and expands the fluids in the human body, and promotes fweat : Hence proceed laflitude and fleep. Too great a degree of cold in the Air braces up and contracts the folids too much, and at the fame time condenfes and infpiflates the fluids in the human body : Hence obftmctions and inflammations frequently arife. But by exercife, warm clothing, and cuftom, fuch bad conlequences may be prevented. Hence we may con- clude that temperature of the Air to be the beft, which is rather heavy than light, neither too dry nor too moift, and is charged but with few, or no noxious exhalations. The inhabitants of Quito in America, who dwell on the higheft part of our Earth hitherto known, breathe the pureft Air. The weftern parts of Africa, under the torrid Zone, have the greateft de- gree of heat of any place on the Globe. §. 53. The Atmofphere is the caufe of clouds, rain, fnow, dew, thun- der, lightning, and various other phenomena in the air. The rays of light are alfo refracted by the Atmofphere, fo that we have the rays of the Sun- fooner, and enjoy them longer, than we do the fight of the Sun itfelf. Hence it comes to pafs, that we have morning and evening twilights ; (b that the glare of day does not break in upon us at once, but gradually ad- vances, and retires in the fame manner ; and to the fame caufe it is ow- ing that inhabitants of the two Polar Circles enjoy the Sun for feveral days in winter, even while it is below their Horizon. $. 54.. Where the Air is charged with vapours, it is heavier than where it is free from fuch aqueous exhalations ; hence the former is more elaftic, and confequently its preffure is greater than that of the latter. This caufes a motion in the Air which we call Wind. The Winds are divided accord- ing to the points of the compafs (§. 3S); and as the places from whence they happen to blow are warm, cold, or moift, the Winds partake of the fame quality. The Winds have a great influence on the health of the human fpecies 5 37 38 Introduction ft? Geography. fpecies, and ferve to purge the Atrnofphere of the noxious exhalations wherewith it is impregnated ; which are either diflipated by Winds or dif- charged on the Earth by the rain. A cold and moift Wind is the moft per- nicious of all the reft. §. 55. It has been found, by repeated experiments, that the velocity with which the Wind moves is never above 50 feet in a fecond. We call that a Guft or fquall of Wind which fuddenly begins to rage with a great degree of vio- lence, is again loon laid, and continues to do fo, as it were, by fits. The Wind generally blows parallel with the Horizon ; but when its direction is' perpendicular to the Horizon it caufes a Whirlwind. The courfe of the Wind is more direct at fea than it is on land ; for on the former, it has a free and uninterrupted paffage ; but on the latter, mountains, woods, cities, and other impediments intercept its current. The Sea-Winds or breezes alfo blowftronger and more conftant than thofe at land. Thofe Winds which blow from the Eaft, or either of the Poles, are ftronger at fea than thofe that blow from the Weft and the Equinoctial Line : Whereas, at land, according to the different lituation of places, the Weft and the South Winds are fometimes ftronger, and fometimes weaker than the Eaft and North Winds. The Winds are more violent, both at fea and land, in fpring and autumn than in fummer and winter. On eminences, and in narrow defiles formed between ranges of hills or contiguous buildings, the Winds are more boifterous than on a plain or level country. Under the Equator and between the Tropics, the Wind blows conftantly during the whole year in one di- rection, which is caufed by the heat of the fun, and moves the fame way with it, namely from Eaft to Weft ; fo that they have a continual eafterly Wind there. However, at different feafons of the year, it blows from different points between the Tropics ; for it generally comes from the South- Eaft from April to November, and from November to April it blows from the North-Eaft points. It is likewife obfervable that the Wind on this fide the Equator blows moftly from the North-Eaft, and on the other fide of it from the Eaft-South-Eaft. §.56. The Weather, or temperature of the air, depends much more on other circumftances than on the diftance of a place from the Pole, or its proximity to the Equator. All thofe places which are fituated between the Tropics are not the hotteft on the Globe, nor are all the places included within the Polar Circles fo intolerably cold, as is generally imagined. Two places maybe in the fame Latitude, and yet one of them may be very hot, or cold, and the other temperate. In many places fituated far to the North, as at Pctcrflurg for example, the heat is far more intenfe at certain times than it is between the Tropics. The Weather, in a great meafure, depends alfo on the Wind, to which the variablenefs or change of it is for the moft part owing. It has, however, been obferved in general, that places lying far to the Introduction to Geograph v. the Eaft are colder than thofe which lie under the fame Parallel, or Latitude, more towards the Weft. Of the Earth in general. §. sj. The Terra fir ma, or dry land, as far as it is hitherto known, does not take up a third part of the furfaceof the Terraqueous Globe. I ihall here treat in particular of the Land, and afterwards of the Water. §. 58. On looking around us on dry Land, we fee a great inequality of hills and valleys, a great diver/ity of foils, with a furprizing variety of coun- tries. Mountains may be reckoned among the moft ftriking proofs of the Divine power, wifdom, and goodnefs. They are an ornament to the Earth, affording the moft beautiful profpects; contain in their bowels large ftores of metals, precious ftones, and other minerals ; and give rife to cooling fprings, brooks and rivers *. On the Mountains we alfo find refreshing breezes and wholefome air, good pafture for cattle, falutary herbs, medicinal fimples, vines, fhrubs, trees, &c. In a word, they render the Earth a commodious habitation for men and beafts. They appear indeed at firft fight as if they were interfperfed at random on the furface of the Earth ; but, upon a nearer view, we find, that in Europe, Afia, and Africa, the vaft ranges of huge Mountains for the moft part extend from Eaft to Weft; whereas in America they ftretch moftly from North to South. The fhape or figure of the Mountains in various parts of the Earth differs extremely. Some of them form high ridges, the height of which, for a long traft of land, is pretty equal ; others are feparated afunder by very deep valleys. Some have a circumference that is tolerably regular; that of others is very irregular : and fometimes we fee a mountain ftanding by itfelf, or detached in the middle of a vale or plain. The Moun- tains that are iituated between the Tropics are higher than thofe in the Temperate Zones ; and the latter are higher than thofe in the Frigid Zones. Hence it appears, that the nearer we approach to the Equator, the greater inequalities we find on the furface of the Earth. The Cordilleras in Ame- rica, which lie under the Equator, are reckoned the higheft Mountains on the Globe ; and one of them, which is called Chimboraffo, is the higheft hill hitherto known, its height being computed at 19,300 Paris feet. For- merly the Pico on the ifland of Teneriffa boafted of that pre-eminence. The Swifi look upon the Titlijberg to be the higheft hill in their country ; and Canigou is reckoned the higheft among the Pyrenees. In feveral Mountains and Rocks there are large and remarkable caverns. §. 59. Many of the Mountains on the furface of the Earth exhibit fiery eruptions. Thefe Volcano s, at certain times, emit, at the aperture on the fummit of them, fmoke, fire, afhes and ftones ; and fometimes difcharge a * The Author might have added, fruitful fhowers, as the mountains, in part, are the cavrfe of them by condeniing the vapours, CY. 4 dream 39 4o Introduction to Geography, ftream of fire, refembling ignited or melted metal. The mofl remarkable burning mountains in Europe are Vejuvio in the kingdom o r Naples, Mtna in Sicily, Stromboli on the ifland of the fame name, Hecla and Krabla, with fome other mountains, in Iceland. There are Volcano's alfo in Kamtjchatka in Alia, on an ifland not far from it, and on the ifland Ternate one of the Moluccas ; on Fu ego one of the African iflands, and in Peru and other places in America. The caufe of thefe Volcano Vis to be attributed to the kindling of fulphu- reous vapours under the Earth. When this fubterraneous fire finds no iuch fpiracle or vent as Volcano's are, it fhakes the Earth, or even tears it alunder ; and this is called an Earthquake, which is commonly accompanied with a dreadful rumbling noile, or loud exploiion, caufed by the rarefaclion and expanfion of the imprifoned air by the fubterraneous heat. Earthquakes every day become more common than they were heretofore. §. 60. Vallies are the neceflary confequence of Mountains ; but I have nothing particular to obferve concerning thefe. Uninhabited Wilds, and uncultivated places are called Deferts. I fhall only obferve, that fome of thefe remain uninhabited on account of their fandy wafles, damp moralTes, and barren foil ; others are uncultivated becaufe of their vaft diftance from any inhabited country. The fandy Deferts of Africa and Arabia are the moft remarkable on the Globe. In the north of AJia there are alfo many uncultivated places which are commonly called Steppen, being of the fame nature with what we call Heaths. §. 61. As Natural Philofophers divide the external and internal produce of the Earth into certain general clafTes, which they call Kingdoms, I fhall briefly recount the principal of thefe natural Kingdoms. The Mineral Kingdom ftands firft in order, and contains all thofe bodies which are pro- duced in the Earth, but have neither life nor any vifible juices contained in tubes or veins. Minerals may be divided into four principal Genera. §. 62. To the firfl principal Genus belong the different fpecies of Earths (Terra), or thofe Mineral bodies which confiftof parts that have little or no cohefion, are not foluble in oil or water, tho' they may be in fome meafure malaxable in the latter, and from which ftones derive their origin. Under this Genus four principal fpecies are included, which are as follows : 1. The fpecies of duff, Earth, or Mould, (Humus'), including black or garden mould, red mould or Englifj Earth ; Umber or brown Earth ; black flaky Earth or Indian ink ; peat or turf, and animal Earth, derived from putrid animals. Chalk, (Creta), the fpecies of which are, white chalk ; Engliß white chalk; pale chalk ; Lac Luna:; Gidor; Calx, or Terra alkalina-, brownifh- red chalk, and green or French chalk. 2. The fpecies of Clay (Argilla), which is ftift, firm, un&uous, &c. are a whitifh-blue variegated Clay, fullers Clay, Clay that will bear the fire; {even species of Bole (which, when formed into fmall round cakes, is called Terra 4 Sigillata, Introduction /ö Geography. 41 Sigillata, or Sealed Earth, becaufe it is marked with a (lamp) ; loofe, and ftone Clay. Marl, (Marga) the fpecies of which are, genuine porcelain-earth, to- bacco-pipe-clay or baftard porcelain-earth, chalky-marl, fullers-earth, marl ufed for manuring a barren foil, ftone-marl, and cafting-marl. 3. The fpecies of Earth mixed with ores, which properly belong to the third principal clafs of the Mineral Kingdom; and are either mixed with fait, as Vitriol, Alum, falt-petre, common fait, and alkaline fait mixed with earth; or with fulphur, as thebitumenous and foflile fulphur; or with me- tals, as Calamine, iron ore, and Verdigrife. 4. The fpecies of Sand, as dry fand, arena pulverulenta, quickfand, claiey fand, and Tripoty of various kinds, of which the yellow fort is ufed for po- lilhing ; Stone-land (arena petrofa) or properly fand ; Ore-fand, as iron, tin, and gold fand ; and laftly Animal-fand. §.63. To the /mW principal Gc«tt* belong the fpecies of Stones. Thefe are firm, compact bodies, which are not malaxable in water or oil, and of different degrees of hardnefs. Stones are divided, 1. Into the fpecies of Calx, which are reducible to powder by fire, but being mixed with water, or any other liquid, acquire a great degree of hard- nefs again, and are of fo loofe a texture as not to ftrike fire with fteel. To this clafs belong Lime-ftone ; and Marble, which confifls of fine particles, admits of a beautiful polifh or luftre, with ftrong, vivid colours, and, after lying for a long time expofed to the air, crumbles to pieces. Some forts of Marble are of one colour ; as the white, black, grey, red, yellow, dark-brown and green marbles. Others are Variegated with the different colours juft men- tioned, intermixed in fpots or veins. Others again are Pidlurefque, or marked with all manner of figures, Sec. Gypfum, the /pedes of which are Alabafter, which admits of a polifh, but has not the fame luftre as marble; cryftal gypfüm ; Selenites which con- lifts of pure tranfparent lamina or flakes ; radiated gypfum, tranfparent gvp- jum ; fhining or Bononian ftone, and Lapis Nephriticus. Spat, or Spar, the fpecies of which are cubic, flaky, granular Spat, and tranfparent Spat ; Double-jlone, or Iceland-cry ßal, which exhibits every ob- jed: that is feen thro' it double ; cryftal j'pat ; fwine-jlone, which, when rub- bed, fmells rank ; glafs /pat, and field /pat. 2. The fpecies of Glajs-ßcnes (Terra vitre/centes), under which are com- prehended thofe ftones which, when melted in the fire, vitrify or turn to glafs, and which are generally fo hard as to ftrike fire with fteel. To this clafs belon°- Schiefer, or a kind of flate which breaks in layeis, flakes or lamina; and Sand-Stone, which breaks in rough fquare pieces. Flint-ftones, or Achate, which are ail hard, produce fire when ft ruck with Ste-cl, and vitrify in the fire. There are opaque and coarle flint-ftones, as Vol. I. G well 42 I N T R Ü D U C T I O N to G E O G R A P II Y. well as coloured and Jemi-tranfparent, which are properly call'd Achate. To the latter fpecies belong the Dendrachates, which is white ; Cornelian, which is moftly red ; Chalce- dony, which is of a light-gray colour ; the Onyx, which confifts of circular lamina of different colours laid one upon another; the Opal, which changes its colour according to its different pofitions with regard to the light, and is inimitable; Ocuhts mundi, which by polifhing receives a beautiful luflre, and is partly fpotted orftriped, partly picturefque; and the mineral Lapis Chclido- ntus, or Swallow-Stone, which is no bigger than lin-feed. Ja/per, which in polifhing does not acquire a ftrong luflre : There are opaque Jafpers as well as thofe of a vivid colour. The latter are properly called Jajpcr, and when polifhed acquire a perfectly beautiful luflre, but are not tranfparent. Thefe are either of one colour, viz. green ; or blue, as Lapis lazuli ; or fpotted Jajper ; or red, as the Jajponyx and Porphyry. Quartz, or a fpecies of flint which is extremely hard. Cryflals, or genuine precious flones, which are quite hard, tranfparent, and pellucid. Thefe are either Hexagonal, which are properly called Cryflals, namely, Rock-Cry/lal, baftard-Ruiy, baftard-Sapphire, baftzrd-Topaz, bafaxd- Emerald, and brown- Cry/?.//; Or polygonal, all which are called genuine Precious Stones, being re- markbly clear and without fpots, are polifhed with great difficulty, and then acquire a furprifing luflre. Thefe are The Diamond, which is the hardefl of all flones, and is, like water, with- out colour. The Ruby, which is of a beautiful red colour. The Sapphire, which is of a lively blue. The Topaz, which is of a vivid golden or yellow colour. The Smaragdus, or Emerald, which is of a lively green. The Chryfolite, which is of a greenifh yellow hue. The Amethyß, which is of a violet colour. The Granite, which is of a dark-red. The Hyacinth, which is of a yellowifh-red ; and The Beryl, which is of a faint, or fea-green colour. 3. Fire Stones, which bear the fire without turning to glafs or calx, and for the mofl part are fo foft and rough that they will not flrike fire with fleel. To this clafs belong Friable Stones, which are moftly foft, and may be crumbled to pieces by rubbing or grinding, and feel fomething unctuous. Of this fpecies are Mufcovy-glafs, or Lapis-fpecularis, which confifls of flexible and entirely clear, tranfparent lamina ; Cats-gold, which is femi-tranfparent, &c. Talc, which is foft, fmooth and unctuous like tallow. Of this fort there are white, gold colour, and green Talc. Tophus, Introduction/«? Geography. 43 Tophus, which feels unctuous, and may he beat fmall, turned or ground with iron inftrumerifs. To this fpecies belongs the ferpentine marble ; the clofe, lax, and coarfc-grained Tophus. Horny-flone, which is fomething hard, but may be rubbed or beaten to pieces. Amianthus, which is the fofteft and lighteft kind of Stone, and may be fpun and weaved. Jt undergoes no other change in the fire than that it grows whiter and fomething harder, but becomes friable at the fame time. To this fpecies belong Rock-jlax, Rock-leather, Rock-flefl?, and Rock-cork. Ajbejlcs is fomething hard and friable, will not float in the water, and ac- quires ft' greater degree of hardnefs in the fire. Of the ripe Afießos, paper, thread, and linen may alio be made; but it muft be previously beaten fmall and well worked together. 4. Rocks, which are large maffes compofed of the abovementioned fpecies of ftones. §. 64. In the /Z>zVy/ principal Genus the difFerent^mV* of Ores are included, which are fpecies of Earths or ftones, impregnated either with fait, fulphur, or metal. 1. Th UROPE is fituated between the 36th and 71ft degree of ri North-Latitude, both the extreme degrees included. To the *■ •* fouth it is bounded by the Mediterranean ; to the weft by the Atlantic, or Weflern Ocean, to the north by the Northern Ocean and Ice- Sea, or Mare glaciate, and to the eaft by the continent of Afia. Geogra- phers are not agreed in determining the proper limits between Europe and Afia : Neither can a political boundary take Place, as the Rußan em- pire extends a great way into Afia. §. 2. Bochart is of opinion, that the name of Europe is of Phceni- cian original ; for the Phcenicians called this principal divifion of the Earth, Ur-appa, « the land of the people with fair faces', in contradiftinction to the iallow and black complexion of the Africans. This derivation is far more probable than any of the other etymologies ufually affigned to the word. §. 3. Though Europe is the fmalleft of the principal divifions of the Earth, yet it deferves to be preferred to the other three; and Europeans may iuftly claim a peculiar pre-eminence over the reft of the inhabitants of the Globe, if we conlider, 1. That Europe for many ages paft has been the chief feat of the Arts and Sciences. 2. That with regard to military power it furpaffes the other three principal parts of the World taken together. Vol. I. I 3. That 5 8 Europe m general. 3. That the Europeans have made themfelves mafters of the greateft part of the reft of the World, and lent thither numerous colonies. 4. That their commerce and navigation extend over the whole Terraqueous Globe, and ferve, as it were, to unite together the principal parts of the Earth. 5. That the knowledge of the true God, ana of the Sa.viour of the World, is by their means diffufed over the face of the whole Earth. §. 4. The fnft inhabitants of Europe undoubtedly came out of Aßa ; but the hiftory of the peopling of this quarter of the world is very dubious and obilure. Probably, the defcendants ofGomer and Magog, Japhet's eldeft fons, iupplied this principal divifion of the Earth with its original, and the ereateft part of, its inhabitants. The Celt a are fuppofed to be the defcen- dants of Gomer; and the Scythians of Magog: The European Sarmata were a branch of the latter. The Phoenicians alfo peopled ieveral regions and countries of Europe by their colonies. $. <5. The number of inhabitants in Europe is by fome computed at 109 millions only; but by others, with greater probability, at near 150 millions. Europe might afford fubliftence to a far greater number, if every part of it was duly cultivated. §. 6. With refpedt to Religion, the inhabitants of Europe are, for the moil part, Chriftians. There is alfo a confiderable part of them who pro- fefs the Jewifh, and others who are of the Mahometan religion ; and laftly fome who ft ill adhere to Heathenifm. §. 7. The European States, coniidered with refpecl: to the greatnefs of their extent of land in fquare geographical miles, are ranged in the following order. The Ruffian Empire. All the Territories belonging to The Kingdom of Polana'. the King of Sardinia. The Kingdom of Sweden. The Republic of Switzerland. Germany. The Eccleßaßical State. The Kingdom of France. The Dominions of the Republic 'Turkey in Europe. of the United Provinces. All the Territories belonging to The Territory of the Republic of the Houfe of Auflria. Venice, in the northern part of Italy. The Spaniß Monarchy. The Great Dutchy of Florence. Denmark and Norway. The Territory of the Republic of Great-Britain and Ireland. Genoa. All the Dominions of the King of The Countries of the Infant Don Prufta. Philip. The Kingdom of Portugal. The Modencfe Territory. The Kingdom of Naples and Sicily. Of Tie SEA S, Ate 59 Of the Seas, by which the Countries defcribed in this Volume are encompafjed^ or feparated from each other. I. The German Ocean, Mare Germanicnm, is that Sea which flows between Great-Britain., the Netherlands, Germany, Denmark, and Norway. As it lies to the north of Holland and Germany, it has been from thence called the North-Sea. On account of its fituation with regard to the Baltic or Eaß Sea, it has alfo the name of the Wefi-Sea, and on the coaft of Jutland it is called the Cimbrian Sea. This Sea is obferved to ebb and flow : The flux is from Weft to Eaft, and the reflux from Eaft to Weft. On the coaft of Norway the tide, at high-water, commonly rifes from four to fix feet, and at fpring-tides about eight feet : But on the coaft of Eng- land and the Netherlands, where the Sea is confined in a channel, it rifes much higher. The opinion that the water of this fea always appears of a bluilh colour, is without foundation. It is falter than that of the Baltic-, infomuch that fait is found in the filfures of the rocks, into which it flows ; and in fome parts of Norway fait is extracted from the fea-water. Walle- rius affaires us, that, -where but few rivers fall into the North- Sea, Salt conftitutes a feventh, and fometimes a tenth part of the fea-water. The water of this fea is alfo unctuous, and in the night appears lucid like Phcf- phoms. I fhall in the next place take fome notice of the aquatic plants that grow in the North-Sea. The Alga, or lea-weed is of a green, or a brown colour : It has either a narrow and flat leaf like grafs, and between two and three ells Jong ; or is narrow and round, and often near ten ells in length. Some fpecies of it have leaves two or three inches broad growing on a fhort round ftalk ; others again have leaves four or five ells long and one broad. There are alfo other forts which for brevity's fake I here omit. The Norwegians that live on the Sea-coaft ufe the Alga, which they call T'arre, to manure their lands ; and in the northern provinces they diy it for winter provender for their cattle. In England and Scotland the poor people who inhabit the fea-coaft burn it in great quantities to a fubftance called Kelp, which they fell to thofe who make glafs. From the Kelp, or afhes of the Alga, pofaflj alfo may be extracted, and what remains after the procefs is a good manure. There are alfo other large marine plants, which we may call fea-trees ; thefe grow at the bottom of this fea at the depth of ioo or 200 fathoms and up- wards, and therefore cannot eafily be drawn up entire out of the water. However, large branches are fometimes taken up, from which we may form an idea of the fize of the entire plant or tree: For fome are full feven inches in diameter, but others only two inches, and fomeftill lefs. The North or German Sea has for feveral ages back been remarkable for dreadful defolating I 2 inunda- 6o the SEA S, fife, inundation?, which have generally happened either a little before, or during the winter Seafon, or foon after it. j At fueh times when the fea is agitated by flormy winds, it has rifen feve;al feet above the higheft dams or dykes, which, in fbme places, were above thirty feet high. II. The Sea that flows between the north part of Jutland, the iflands Tuncn and Seeland, and the coafts of Swede?! and Norway, being properly a bay or part of the German Ocean, is called Sinus Cuhvnis or Gcthanus, and Sinus Scage?ißs, theCATTEGAT, and Skagerrak. The laft appellation it has from the north point of Jutland called Skagen, from which a dangerous fand-bank runs a great way into the Sea. In this bay there is a noble her- ring-fifhery. From the Caltegat you pafs through either of the three flreights, viz. the Orefund, or Sound, the Great Belt, and the Little Belt into III. The Baltic, Mare Balticum, called by the Germans and Hoi landers the Ea/1 Sea, which is properly a large bay, and lies between Den- mark, Germanx, Pruffia, Coarland, RuJ/ia, and Sweeden. This Sea is not obferved to ebb or flow : It feems, however, to difcharge itfelf towards the Sound ; but this current may be obftrufted by a ftrong continued North-weft wind, which mav alfo force in a great-quantity of water from the German Ocean, and caufe the water in the harbours of the Baltic to rife. When the North wind blows, the water of the Baltic, which is»otherwife fait, becomes almoft (refh, fo as to be in fome meafure fit for domeftic ufes : However, it is not very fait at other times ; for a great number of rivers run into it.. Its greateft depth does not exceed fifty fathoms. A. Celflus in the Tranfadions of the Swcediß Academy of Sciences, T. 5. has demonftrated, that the watei' in the Baltic decreafes daily ; and, according to his calculation, it has funk about 45 geometrical inches in 100 years. The waves are not fo high and long in the Baltic as they are in the German Ocean, but fall fborter, quicker, and in greater numbers, after each other. The fifhery in the Baltic is con- fiderable, efpecially the herring fifhery. When this fea is agitated with ftorrns it throws on the coaft of Prußa and Courland, particularly on the former, the fo much celebrated Amber,, of which more will be faid in the defcription of Prußa. On the coaft of Sweden the Baltic forms two bays, called in the Swediß language Hafs-Botnar. One of thefe runs north- wards and is called the Bothnian Gulph, in Latin, finus Bothnicus, and is 80 geographical miles long and 30 broad. The other runs to the Eaft, and is called the Gulph of Finland, in Latin Sinus Finnicus, and is 60 geo- graphical miles long and J5 broad. In feveral places in this gulph the va- riation of the magnetic needle is very extraordinary. In one place particu- larly it points between the South- Weft and Weft, and in another part it points to the North- Weft. Laftly, the Baltic forms a bay near Livcjiia, which is called the gulph of Livonia cr Riga. IV. Farther towards the North lies the Northern Ocean, Oceanus feptenirionalis, which abounds with a furpriling quantity of iifh both of the 5 lar £ e The SEAS, Sfc. 61 large and fmall fpecies ; and about the beginning of June the herrings come in prodigious fhoals from the Northern into the German Ocean. A great great quantity of floating wood is alfo found in this Sea. The White Sea, called in the "Ruffian language Bieloe More, is a bay of the Northern Ocean near Archangel. From Novaja Semlia, or Nova Zembla, to the point or land called Tfchuketfcboi Nofs, the Northern Ocean is called the Ice Sea or Frozen Sea, in which there is ice almoft all the year round. This fea is frozen at furtheft by the beginning of 061 ober, and generally before that time : It commonly thaws about the middle of June. In the Ice-Sea, as well as in the rivers thatdifemboguethemfelves into it, a flux and reflux are percep- tible, but not a great way above the mouths of the rivers. There are many traces remaining which fhew that the Ice-Sea formerly extended much far- ther fouth than it does at preient ; fo tha-t hence it is no wonder, we find at a diftance from the Ice-Sea the remains of fea-animals buried in the earth. No perfon has hitherto failed farther in this Sea than to the 8oth degree of North Latitude. After the many fruitlefs attemps made by the Hollanders, about the clofe of the fixteenth century, to find a pafläge through the Ice-fea into the Eafl- ern Ocean, and from thence to the Ea/t Indies, the Czar Peter the Great attempted the paiTage once more. He fent out two mips from Archangel, which entered the Frozen Sea through the White Sea and Northern Ocean, one of which, on account of the large flakes of ice it met with, could not proceed a great way to fea, but ftuck in the ice ; and the other was never after beard of, fo that probably it funk to the bottom among the ice. The Cza- rina Anne caufed this paffage to be attempted anew. For this purpofe me ordered two ihips to fail from Archangel along the coaft of the Frozen-Sea to the mouth of the river Ob, and another (hip to fail from Tobolß, out of the Irtijch and Ob, along the fea-coaft, as far as the Jenifei. Laftly, two other fmall vefiels had orders to fail down the Lena into the Ice-Sea ; one of which was to fleer wellward to the mouth of the Jenifei, and the other eaftward, along the coaft of the Ice-fea, and to fail from thence by the mouths of the rivers Jana, Indigirka and Kolyma quite into the Ocean, and fo to Kamtfchatka. Thefe feveral voyages were undertaken in the year 1 73 5; but only the laft mentioned expedition in anymeafure fucceeded. For Lieute- nant Owzin advanced with the fmall veffels as far as the Kolyma, and pro- ceeded from thence, partly by land, and partly bv fea, quite to Anadirfkoi Oflrog, furveyed the whole coaft fofir, and ended his voyage in 1740. In thefe attempts there appears to have been a great overlight committed, Firß, by not failing early enough in the Seafon ; and, Jecondly, by their keeping too near the fhore ; for there is a greater quantity of ice, and the cold is more fevere near the coaft than farther North towards the Pole, where perhaps there is little or no ice, and the cold is lefs piercing than towards the land. Gerhard^ de Veer aflures us, that he did not perceive the air near fo cold 6 2 the SEAS, && cold in the 8oih degreeof North Latitude as it was in 76 near Novaja Semlia. He farther adds that in 8o° North Latitude he fawgi en tree , *ine grafs, and feveral animals, as roes, hinds, csV. in the month oi "June; whereas he obferved neither animals nor vegetab'es in Latitude 76 even in Auguß. This traft of land which he faw was probably a part oi S r l'zl>erg. In the archives of "Jckutzka accounts have been tound, which inforqa us that, towards the cloie of the laft century, voyages were made almoft every year from the mouth of the Lena to Kolyma, in fmall vefTels, by illiterate people who were quite ignorant of navigation. One in particular proceeded in a fmall boat, not much bigger than a canoo, along the coaft of Kolyma by the Tfchukctfcf:.ol Nofs or point, quite to Kamtfchatka. Nay the Hollan- ders, who are employed in the whale-fifliery, have taken whales in the Northern Ocean with japanefe harpoons ftuck in their bodies. Laftly, it is obfervable, that in the Ice-Sea, the coaft is covered with a great quantity of wood which floats thither from fome other parts, though no woods are to be feen growing for thiity geographical miles up the country. In many places on that coaft large high piles of inch flo;"it-wood, conllfting of larch and firr-trees, are to be met with. Perhaps this wood floated thither from thole parts which de Veer Jaw ■, as mentioned above, or, pofiibly, from more diftant regions near the North Pole. V. The Eastern Ocean, Mare Orientale, joins the Ice-Sea, and divides A/la from America : It is called by the Rußlans Tltßoe More. VI. The fea of Kamtfchatka derives its name from the peninfula of Kamt- fchatka, for it flows between it and the continent or country called Ochotjkol, and joins with the Eafiern Ocean of which it may be looked upon as a large bay. Towards the north it runs a great way into the land and forms the gulf of Penfchhijka, fo called from the river Penfchina, which diiembogues itfelf into it. This Sea is very boifterous and often agitated with ftorms. It appears by experiments tried with the Barometer that it ftands higher, with refpect to the centre of the Earth, than the Ocean, the Mediterranean, or Cafpian fea. The furface of the water is alfo higher at the fort Bolfcheretzkol, than at the harbour of Ochotjkoi. VII. The Caspian Sea, Mare Cafplum, or Mare Hyrcanum, called by the Perfians Kolfum, by the Turks Bahrl Gafe, by the RuJ/ians Chivalinjkoi More ; but from the adjoining provinces it is denominated the Sea of Geor- gia, Tabrlßan, Ghllan, Dilem and Baku. It is entirely encompaffed with land, and extends 150 geographical miles in length from North to South, and between 60 and 70 in breadth from Eaft to Weft. Some are of opi- nion, that the Cafpian Sea about the middle is almoft unfathomable; but others affirm that the depth of it does not exceed 70 fathoms in any part. The bottom is not rocky, being rather a kind of quickfand, with feveral fhoals interfperfed in different parts, efpecially on the North-Weft lide of it. Over againft Xllan, a province of Per/la, two large whirlpools have been obferved DENMARK. Vol. I. K A N [ 67 ] A N INTRODUCTION T O T H E DESCRIPTION of DENMARK. §. i. A Ndrew Buram de Boo, principal architect to the King of Sweden, JL\_ was the firft who delineated an accurate map of the Northern Kingdoms. His map was, indeed, properly defigned for Sweden only; hut, at the fame time, it comprifesall the Northern countries, and is the original from which all the maps of Scandinavia, which have been fince publiihed, are copied. Thofe by Herman Moll, Hamann, and Witten claim the prefer- ence among the latter. §. 2. Cbriflian IV. caufed a map of De?tmark tobe drawn by John Meyern, which is the ground-work of all the new maps ofthat Kingdom ; only the latter have received fome few alterations and additions. Thofe publifhed by Homann are the moft common and ufeful maps of Denmark. In Pon- ioppidaris Theatrum Danim there is alfo a map ; which, for geographical ac- curacy, claims, indeed, the preference to, but is not fo beautiful engraved as fome other maps of that country. We could wifh, however, that a fpeedy improvement were made in the maps of Denmark and Norway. §. 3. Among the many etymologies affigned to the name of Denmark by different hiftorians, there are but two which deferve our notice. Some de- rive it from that of an ancient king called Dan, and alledge, that Denmark denotes the field or land of king Dan. But it is uncertain whether ever any fuch king exifted; unlefs Dan Mikillati, i.e. ' The haughty,' who is men- tioned by the hiftorians of Iceland, and placed in the year of Chrift 146, be the perfon they mean. Others pretend, that the river Eider, which fepa- rates this kingdom from the Empire of Germany, was formerly called Don, Dana, or Dcna ; and that all the country now called "Jutland, which was inhabited by the ancient Danes, was, from that river, called Dania, ox Den- mark, which name was alfo applied to the conquered iflands. Theconjec- K 2 tures 68 D E N M A R K. tures of Eckhardt and Goldafi on this head may be kzn in M. Von JVejlpha- len's Monument a inedita, T. i. p. 878, &ftq. §. 4. Denmark lies exactly to the North of Germany, and is feparated from it by the Leveu and the Eider. The latter has, from time immemorial, been acknowledged to be the boundary between Denmark and Germany, which occafioned the following Pentameter verfe to be cut on the Holßein- gate at Rendfiurg, which ftands clofe by the Eider. Eydcra Romani terminus imperij. To the weft Denmark is warned by the North Sea or German Ocean ; to the north it has the ßnus Codanus, otherwife called the Cattegat, or Schager- rack ; and to the eaft it is bounded by the Baltic or Ea/1 Sea. Between the continent and the iflands Funen and Seeland, are the famous Straits, called the Little Belt, the Great Belt, and the Oerejund or Sound which divides Denmark from Sweden. The Sound is about 1331 fathoms, or half a geo- graphical mile, broad at Helfingoer, and is the common paflage out of the North Sea into the Baltic. This, as well as the other two Straits men- tioned above, is reckoned part of the king of Denmark's dominions ; and confequently all fhips that pafs that way are obliged to pay a toll, according to the value of the cargoes they are laden with, of which we fhall fay more in §. 20. §. 5. Denmark, properly fo called, confifts of two large, and feveral fmall iflands, together with the peninfula of "Jutland. The kingdom of Norway, with the iflands Faroe, Iceland and Greenland, one half of the Dutchy of Holjlein, with the counties of Oldenburg and Dalmenhorß in Germany, the town of Tranquebar, with its territory, and the iflands of Nicobar on thecoaft of Coromandel in Afia, the citadel of Ghrißianjburg on the coaftof Guinea in Africa, and the iflands of St. Thomas and St. John, with fome of the Caribbe iflands, and St. Croix are alfo fubjec~t to the King of Denmark. We are here only to confider his Danijh majefty's northern dominions ; but as for thofein Germany, and other parts of the world, they will be de- fcribed in their proper places. §. 6. The extent of the whole kingdom of Denmark cannot be exactly determined, becaufe its parts are not contiguous to each other; but that of every part fingly will be hereafter fpecified under their proper heads. The air in AW/' Jutland is pretty cold and piercing. On the eaft fide, in South Jutland, and in the iflands Funen and Seeland it is milder and more tem- perate ; but in the low marfliy part, and in the ifle of Laaland, the air is thick, moift, and unhealthy. The fhifting of the winds, indeed, renders the weather fomewhat variable, but, at the fame time, purges the air of fogs and vapours. The weft wind is the moft violent, and very frequently blows in DENMARK. 6 9 in thefe parts. Denmark lies moftly low and on a level, and, excepting the traft of land about the middle of Jutland, is very fertile; fo that the country maintains its inhabitants in plenty, and yields a rich provifion of every thing neceflary for the fupport of human life. It can better difpenfe with its horned cattle and horfefi than with the corn, for exportation. The fea-coafts, lakes, ponds, rivers, and brooks in this country yield abundance of fifh. Denmark produces no wine, metals, or fait, the fmall quantity of fait which is made in Jutland being very inconfiderable. Moft of the provinces are fupplied with a fufficient quantity of wood to anfwer their neceflary occafions; however, the Danes burn a great deal of turf. §. 7. Denmark is pretty well peopled : But fome are of opinion, that the number of inhabitants in this kingdom was formerly more confiderable than it is at prefent. The Danes are divided into Nobles, Burghers, and Pea/ants ; and the Noblefle is diftinguifhed by the appellations of the higher and lower Nobility. There never were any Princes or Dukes, befides the King's Sons, in Denmark, excepting only one nobleman, namely, Knut Pors, who was created Duke of Halland by Chriflopher II. So that in the rank of higher Nobles are included only Counts and Barons, which titles were introduced into Denmark by Chrißlan V. who firft created them on May 25, 1671. The privileges of Counts are fpecified in an ordinance of the year 1688. They have the right of primogeniture. Their younger fons and daughters are ftiled Barons and Baroneffes, and enjoy the privi- leges annexed to that rank. In their Counties they have the right of pa- tronage, and of appointing a judge and fecretary, from whofe fentence there lies no appeal, but only to the Supreme Court of judicature. They pay no contributions or tithes for their eftates in chief, and are allowed 300 acres of land, over and above, free from all impofitions. All fuits carried on againft them muft commence in the Supreme Judicatory. They bear a coronet over their coat of arms. The reader may fee the other privileges belonging to the Danifl) Nobility in Holberg's political hiftory of Denmark and Norway, p. 272, & feq. The rights and privileges of the Barons in Denmark is much the fame with thofe of the Counts. The principal difference is, that the Baron's enjoy only 100 acres of land free from tithes and contributions, and are fomething inferior to Counts in rank and title. No perfon is made a feodal Count or Baron, who is not able to purchafe fo much land, as may be erected into a feodal County or Barony : But this qualification is not ne- ceflary for other Counts and Barons. The privileges of the lower No- bility are, that in matters of life and honour, they muft be cited before the King's fupreme Court, unlefs they have a poft in the militia by land or by fea ; and then this exception only extends to the fuperior officers. Thofe who have equal priviliges, and rank with the Nobility, alfo enjoy this pre- rogative. No inferior judge can execute a fentence pafled upon any of thefej for that muft be done only by the judge of the province, or his commif- 3 &ry • ;o DENMARK. fary: Hence it is that an appeal from the fentence of the inferior judge may be lodged in the court of the province. A lord of a manor, who^befides the produce of his manor, together with the mills and tithes, has 200 acres of land in farm eftate, lying within two miles of his manor, is free from contribution. Lords of a manor have alfo the privilege of hunting and fifhing ; that of appointing a judge and fecretary; the ftrand-right, or right of trover, if the proprietor of the goods found does not make his claim in one year and fix weeks ; and the right of patronage or prefentation to their own churches. But thefe, as well as other privileges belonging to thofe who are poffeffed of manors, are feldom enjoyed by them unlefs they are Gentlemen, or upon a footing with that rank. If a perlbn has a manor, which, together with the eftate fubjecl to it, amounts to 400 acres of land, he may fet up as head of a family, provided he is qualified in every other refpect. The Nobles that are properly Danißi, that is, fuch as have been born and enobled in Denmark, are, in comparifon to other kingdoms, not verv numerous : And therefore we may affirm in general, that the Noble- men in this country are, at prefent, for the moft part of foreign extraction. Formerly the Danißj Nobility, who were fuch ftrictly fpeaking, enjoyed extraordinary privileges, and in the reign of Frederic III. their power rofe to the higheft pitch : But in the fame reign, after the monarchy became abfolute, it fell fo low, that they had nothing left but the privileges men- tioned above ; and thefe were only granted to them out of royal grace. The Nobility of Slefwick have the fame rights and privileges as thofe of Holßein. I have nothing particular to obferve with regard to the Burghers. They here enjoy greater or lefs privileges, according to the cities of which they are members, and their own deferts. However, the Burghers of Copenhagen enjoy the pre-eminence above the reft: For on the loth of Augnfl, 1658, they obtained very extraordinary and extenfive privileges, which were con- firmed to them, and confiderably enlarged, in the year 1661. The Damjh Peäfants are of different clafles. Some of them are poffeffed of a fpot of land as their own property, for which they make the lord of the manor only fome inconliderable acknowledgment ; otherwife they are free from all imports and exactions, excepting the general contribution. In the Danißj language, thefe are called Seheyerbonder, i. e. land-owners. Others have only a farm for which they pay a certain rent, and are termed in Daniß, Faße- bonder. Thefe pay yearly to the proprietors of their farm the rent agreed upon in money, cattle, or corn, and do inferior fervices at the manor of their lord. There are others who are Servants to thefe two clafles of Pea- fants. Slavery, or the ftate of fervitude was entirely abolifhed in Denmark in the year 1702, by Frederic IV. and is continued only in fome parts of the Dutchy of Slefwick. §. 8. The DENMARK. 71 §. 8. The Danijh langmge is only a dialed of the Swcdiß and Norwe- gian ; and the inhabitants of thefe three northern kingdoms underftand each other's language, excepting fome few words and phrafes. The modern Danifli is a mixture of the ancient Gothic, Frifian, and German languages. With regard to the pronunciation, it has a great affinity with the Englijh, with which it has many words in common, and is well adapted for poetry. §. 9. In the times of Heathenifm the Danes paid religious worfhip chiefly to the Gods Freyer, Tbor, Thyr, Odin, and Freya-, and four days in the week (till retain the names of the four lad mentioned, in the DaniJJj language. Odin was the chief of thefe deities. In the middle ages feveral attempts were made, at different times, to convert the Danes to Chriftianity. In the year 822, Ebbo, biffiop of Rheims, preached the Gofpel in Den- mark. King Harald Klag, who fled for refuge to the emperor Lewis, con- ferred to be baptized, and was attended back to his kingdom by feveral monks. Thefe monks founded churches in feveral places in Denmark, par- ticularly at Haddebye in the Dutchy of Slejwick, where the very firft Danißj church was erected, which was committed to the care of the Bifhop Anf- garins. But the fucceeding kings proved inveterate enemies to the Chri- ftians, and perfecuted the new converts among the Danes in the moft cruel manner; however, after various viciffitudes of fortune they obtained at length a free and uninterrupted toleration, about the year 1000, from King Sueno. When Luther began to reftore in Germany the doctrine of the Gof- pel in its genuine purity, it was favourably received in Denmark by Chri- jlian II. where it ftill gained more ground under Frederic I. In the reign of Chrijlian III. it was made the eftablifhed religion at the Diet held at Co- penhagen in 1537; and a new body of ecclefiaftical laws was drawn up by "John Bugenhagen, who alfo made feveral other good regulations. Hence it appears that the Evangelical or Lutheran religion is the prevailing doctrine in this kingdom. Other religious fedts, viz. the Cahinijls, the Roman- catholic?, and Jews enjoy the free exercife of their religion in Copenhagen, Fredericia, and Frederick/ladt. Arminians, Mennonites, and Quakers are alfo tolerated at Frederickfiadt ; and on the ifland of Nordßrand the Roman- catholics, enjoy the puplic exercife of their religion. By the laudable en- deavours of the Kings of Denmark the light of the Gofpel has likewife been difplayed with good fuccefs in Finmark, Greenland, and among the Mala- bari ans on the coaft of Coramandel ; and in 17 14 a Society was inftituted for this purpofe, which is entitled, Collegium de curju Evangelii promo- vendo. Thofe who have the chief ecclefiaftical jurifdiction in the kingdoms of De?imark and Norway are the Bifhops ; of which there are fix in Denmark, four in Norway, and two in Iceland. Two Bifhops, namely, thofe of See- land, and Chrijliania have the precedency of all the reft. The former is alfo third Profeffor of Divinity in the Univerfity of Copenhagen, and confe- quently 72 DENMARK. qucntly is obliged to refide in that city. The title of Archbiihop is abo- litlied in Denmark ; and Slepwick and Holflein are under a general Superin- tendent. In former times the power of the Bifhops was very coniiderable in Denmark ; for with the other principal prelates they formed the third State of the Kingdom : But at this day they enjoy no other power, but what the general Superintendents in Germany are inverted with, being only ftiled Su- perintendents in law. The Bifhops are always appointed by the King. They yifit the churches and fchools in their refpeclive diocefes or Superintendencies, (which they are obliged to do once in three years ;) examine, and ordain new preachers ; and, together with their Provofts, at ftated times, hold provincial fynods, where they prefide in conjunction with the Governour of the Diocefe or province. Their revenue arifes from lands, tithes, and the Cathedraticum, as it is called, or a fmall fum which they receive from every church in the diocefe. In every cathedral there is a fmall college confiding of four or five canons, who enjoy certain lands, tithes, &c. They meet twice a year in the chapter-houfe, in order to fit as judges on matri- monial and other caufes, which were formerly decided by the Canon lav/. Their court, in which the Governour of the Diocefe prefides, is called the hamper recht, and the days of their meeting, Tampertage. There was for- merly a divinity Lecturer, who read public lectures weekly in every cathe- dral ; but thefe were, in time, laid afide. Next to the Bifhops are the Provofts ; and of thefe there are 160 in the whole Kingdom. They annu- ally vifit the preachers and fchoolmafters within their jurifdiclion ; decide difputes between the preachers and the veftries or parifhes, when they are cognizable by the ecclefiaftical law; and appear at the provincial fynod twice a year. The Provofts have a Rix-dollar * yearly from every church in their jurifdicYion, and in their vifitations are entertained gratis. Next to thefe are the Preachers, whofe affiftants are called Chaplains. The revenues of the Danißj clergy, which arife partly from tithes, and partly from the liberality of their refpective flocks, are more confiderable, perhaps, than in any other country. Confeffion-money is, indeed, abolifhed in Denmark; but, in lieu of it, the Preachers enjoy the offerings, which their congregations make at Chrißmas, Eafler, and Whitfuntide. A Preacher's widow in Den- mark receives half the benefit of the firft year, and the eighth part of the income every year after, from the fucceffor of her deceafed hufband. In the principal town of every diocefe there is alfo a widow's box, in which every Preacher puts a certain fum; and his widow, if fhe furvives him, enjoys an annuity, in proportion to what he has contributed. §. 10. The number of learned men in Denmark is as confiderable as in any other country in Europe, of the fame extent, and where the fciences are in a flouriflung ftate. There is fcarce any branch of Literature, in which men of genius in this kingdom have not acquitted themfelves with honour, * 4*. bd. Sterling. Befides D E N M A R K. Befides the Univerfity at Copenhagen, which confifts of four colleges, the Academy at Soroe, and the Gymnajium or Seminary at Odenfe, there are fe- \ eral fchools well endowed in country-towns, where the mailers are not only liberally provided for, but alio the fcholars are inftructed, and partly main- tained gratis. By virtue of an Ordinance made by Chrißian VI. in the year 173.9, there were fix public Grammar-fchools ordered to be erected in the Diocefe of Seeland, befides thofe at Friederickßurg and Her Inf /lohn; namely, one at Copenhagen, another at Rofhild, a third at S/age/fe, a fourth atHelfngoer, a fifth at Kioge and JVordinborg, and a fixth at Ronr.e, on the iiland of Bornholm. In the Diocefe of Funen, fchools were founded at Odenfe and Nyborg, at Naßow on the iiland of Laaland, and at Nykicbing on the ifland of Falfler. In North-Jutland eight fchools were erected in the following places, viz. in the Diocefe of Ripen, at Ripen, Friedericia, and Kolding ; in the Diocefe of ' Aarhuus, atAarhuas, Randers, and Horfens ; in the Diocefe of JViburg, at Wibwg; in the Diocefe of Aalburg, at Aalburg. In Norway, only one fchool is founded in every Diocefe, namely at Chrifliania, Chri- flianfand, Bergen, and Drontheim. In Iceland there are two, and in the Dutchy of Siefwick eleven Grammar-fchools. In 1742, a royal Academy of Sciences was instituted at Copenhagen, with a Royal Society, for the im- provement of the Northern Hiitory and Languages. Societies for the im- provement of the ufeful arts and manufactures, and of the feveral branches of Phyfic, and, in 1736, the Theatrum anatomico-chirurgicum, and feveral li- braries were erected. There is alfo an Academy for Painting, Sculpture, and Architecture at Copenhagen, and the polite arts are in high efteem there. §. 11. In the laft century there were fcarce any manufactures carried on in Denmark; for they were firft introduced by Frederic IV. and Chrißian VI. and may poffibly, in time, be farther improved. There are artifts of ex- traordinary fkill at Copenhagen; and, at prefent, every branch of the me- chanic arts is well executed in Denmark. Gold and filver lace, filk fluffs, and velvets, cloths, cotton and woollen fluffs, ftockings, tapeftry, hats, baftard and genuine porcelain, and fire-arms are alio manufactured in this Kingdom. Here are, befides, paper and copper-mills, different forts of iron- wares made, one filk and two cotton printing-houfes, with manufactories of foap, fteel, ftarch, glue, lacker, tobacco, fugar, &c. The lace of Ton- dern, and the gloves of Randers and Odenfe are well known to be excellent in their kind. No foreign manufactures are allowed to be imported into Denmark; and, fince the year 1736, the wearing of jewels, gold and filver fluffs, and foreign lace, has been alfo prohibited. In 1738, a general ware- houfe or magazine was opened at the Exchange in Copenhagen, to which ma- nufacturers bring all the wares which they cannot difpofe of in other towns, and are paid ready money for them ; and from this warehoufe the goods are delivered out on credit to retailers. Vol. I. L §.12. Den- 73 74 DENMARK. §. 12. Denmark enjoys the mod commodious fituation for navigation and commerce, and might be made the centre of the important trade of the North, ar.d in particular that carried on in the Baltic, if a ftaple was eftab- lifhed at Copenhagen. Formerly all the commerce to Denmark was carried on by the Hanfe-towns, which were afterwards fupplanted by the Dutch and Englißt; but for the mod part by the former. In the reign of Chrißian III. the Duties began to carry on their own trade, which was encouraged by Chrißian IV. and in the reign of Chrißian V. was carried on in their own bottoms. But Frederic IV. may be called the real founder of the D anißt commerce; which Chrißian VI. powerfully fupported, and Frederic V. by his royal munificence and bounty endeavoured to carry to the utmoft pitch. The ftrict and conftant application of the Danes, at this day, to navigation and commerce appears, partly by the great number of mips, which yearly pafs through the Sound (thofe of the year 1752 amounting to 850 fail,) and partly from the feveral opulent Companies, which have been, from time to time, eftablifhed at Copenhagen, every one of which has its own prefident, directors, and other officers. The principal among thefe is the Royal Afiatic Company, firft erected with his Danißt Majefty's approbation in 1616, confirmed by a royal char- ter in 1698, which was renewed, with proper regulations, in 1732 and 1744. This Company trades to Tranquebar, on the coaft of Coromandel, where they have a governor, and to Canton in China ; and carry on their commerce almoft entirely with current fpecie or bullion. In return they have chints, cottons of all forts, muflins, pepper, falt-petre, tea, with other Bengal and China wares. For thefe commodities they receive confiderable fums of money, to refund the fpecie carried out of Denmark, from fo- reigners; who take them off their hands, particularly great quantities of tea : Befides, they fupply their own Country with all thefe merchandifes. This Company fends two fhips every year to Canton, which return richly laden, and two or three more to Tranquebar. Their Aclions, or flock, being in high credit, is an evident proof of their flourifhing flate. In 1755, an ad- dition of 300,000 Rix-dollars * was made to their fund or capital. The Weß-India and Guinea Company, formerly eftablifhed by charter, was diffolved in 1754, aud the trade to America laid open to all adven- turers who are natives of Denmark, Norway, or Slejwick ; and the mono- poly of fugar is no longer in being. In the year 1755, the king eftablifhed an African Company, with a capital of 500 Aclions, every Aclion confuting of 500 Rix-dollars, which are divided between thirteen adventurers. The General Trading Company, eftablifhed by a royal charter, was infti- tuted with a defign to carry on fuch branches of trade, as no private adven- turers are able to undertake, and, at the fame time, to ferve as a fort of ' A. Daniß Rix-dollar is 4*. bd. fterling. Academy DENMARK. Academy for young merchants. This company was incorporated in 1747, and enjoys confiderable privileges. Its ABions are iooo, each of which confifts of 500 Rix-dollars ; but of this fum only 300 Rix-dollars arc paid down ; fo that their fund amounts to 300,000 Rix-dollars. The remaining 200 Rix-dollars of every Action, may be demanded on any emergency. This Company trades to Spain, France, the Mediterranean, the Baltic, and alfo to Greenland, by fending fhips to the Whale-fifhery. The Iceland and Finmark Company, eftablifhed by a royal charter, have monopolized the trade to Iceland and Finmark, for a term of years which is to expire in 1771, and obtained their laft charter in 17-16. I fliall take no- tice of the commodities fent to Iceland, and imported from thence in return, in my defcription of that country. Befides thefe trading Companies, other Daniß) adventurers trade to diffe- rent ports of Europe. The imports always exceed the exports in Den- mark : But in the kingdom of Norway it is quite the reverfe. The Aßignation-Exchange or Loan-Bank, at Copenhagen, was erected October 29, 1736. The Bank-notes are drawn for 100, 50, or ;o B.ix- dollars, and pafs in all the king's dominions, and the public offices belong- ing to the crown, as current fpecie. Great, or fmall fums, but not under 100 Rix-dollars, are lent out of this Bank, on depofiting a fufficient pledge, at four per cent. The capital Stock is 500,000 Rix-dollars ; and though their circulating notes amount to much more, they are in very good cre- dit, as appears by the high price of the Company's Aclions. There is alfo in Copenhagen an office of Infurance for fhips at fea, efta- blifhed by charter. The number of fhips that come annually into the port of Copenhagen is very confiderable ; for it appears that above 3000 fhips and fmaller veffels, laden with all forts of merchandifes, efpecially provifions, timber, and materials for building, were entered at the Cuflom-houfe in the year 1752. §. 13. The right of coinage has been entirely vefted in the Crown fince the reign of Frederick III. The current coins in Denmark are, A Fyrk of copper, two of which make zjchilling ; and two of the latter are equal to one /chilling lub, or a firoer. A Dutgen, which is equal to threejlivcrs, or fix fchHiings Daniß: . A Mark Daniß:, which is equal to 16 fchillings, or half a Mark lub. A Half-crown, which is alfo called one mark-piece, is two marks Da- 'lijh, or one Mark lub. A Crown, equal to two half-crowns. There are alfo double crowns in Denmark. Rix-dollars and Ducats pafs at the ufual value, excepting the new current Ducats, which fcarce make two 7; s, and commonly do not exceed 1 1 Marks. Five Daniß) Rix-dol!ars * (but according to the * A Rix-dollar Daniß, according to Paraire's Tabic, is equal to '.\s. 6d. fo that they gene- rally amount to more than a pound fterling. L 2 courfe 75 7 6 DENMARK. courfe of Exchange, fometimes more, fometimes lefs) are equal to one pound fterling. As to the intrinlic value of the lilver coin, from i mark, which is 8 ounces of pure Silver, 34 current marks lub are coined. §. 14. The Poft-office was put on its prefent regular footing in Denmark by Frederick III. In all towns the couriers for letters go out and come in twice a week. As for the weekly travelling poft carnages, one takes its route from Copenhagen through Seeland, Falfier, and Laaland to the town of Nafkow ; and the other, from Copenhagen through Seeland, Fünen, Slej- wick and Holßein to Hamburgh . A new travelling poft carriage was fet up in Jut/and in the year 1753, which goes from Haderßeben to Aalburg once in a fortnight. In every town in Denmark a perfon may have a carriage for himfelf at a reafonable fixt rate. The roads are meafured all over the king- dom, and at every quarter of a Danijh mile the ground is a little raifed, and a fcone erected on it. §. 1 5. We cannot pretend to afcertain, who were the fir ft inhabitants of thele northern parts of Europe. That the Cimbri and Teutones, in the time of the ancient Romans, inhabited the prefent Jutland and Dutchy of Slefwick, may be ealily demonftrated. As lor the other iflands, and their forms of government, we have none, or but very obfeure and uncertain ac- counts. However, it is probable that Denmark was divided between feveral petty fovereigns ; that king Worm, and Godfrey the Great who in the days of Charlemagne confiderably enlarged his dominions, were only Lords of Jut- land; and that the tyrannical power of fuch ambitious princes compelled others to feek for new habitations. This gave occafion to thofe extraordi- nary expeditions of the Normans into Neujlria, England, Italy, and Sicily. Thefe conquefts paved the way for Sueno the Great to th.zEngliJh throne in the eleventh century, which, together with the kingdom of Norway, his fuc- ceffois afterwards loft. The fucceeding ages were no lefs infefted with commotions, wars, and affafii nations even of kings and princes ; till at length Margaret daughter of Waldemar III. by her marriage obtained the kingdom of Norway, and by her prowefs conquered Sweden, about the clofe of the 14th century ; and united the three Northern kingdoms by the Union of Calmar, in the year 1397. Her defcenclants, however, enjoyed this hap- pinefs but for a fhort time. Fur, notwithftanding this Union was confirmed by Erich of Pomerania in the yearof Cbrift 1436, yet he was afterwards de- pofed ; and Chrißopher of Bavaria died in 1448 without heirs. The latter was fucceeded by Chrißian, Count of Oldenburg, who had the Dutchy of Holßein by hereditary right, and mounted the throne in 1449. John, his fon and fucceffbr, firft difmembered the Dutchies of Slefwick and Holßein, and Chrißian II. the fon of John, loft both his crown and liberty ; and Sweden entirely fhook off the Daniflo yoke. Frederick I. Chrißian the fecond's uncle by the father's fide, began the Reformation, which Chrißian III. who obtained the crown by election, completed. The latter united Norway to DENMARK. to the kingdom of Denmark, and difmembered Slefwick and Holflein from the latter a fecond time. Frederick II. in concert with the Duke of Holflein, conquered Ditmarfch, rendered his kingdom and family very powerful by the treaties of Roj child and Stettin ; and obtained of the Emperor Maximi- lian II. the reveriion of Oldenburg and Delmenhorfi. This monarch's fon, the brave Chri/lian IV. indeed, extended his dominions in the Eafl Indies; but was unfuccefsful in a thirty years war. Frederick III. his fon and fuc- ceffor, on account of the factions and growing power of the nobility, was very unfortunate in his war with the Swedes; but, in 1660, beyond the expectation of all, he became an abiblute hereditary Monarch. Chrißian V. after a tedious dilpute, obtained the Counties of Oldenburg and Delmen- hor/i by a convention ; and he, as well as his fon Frederick IV. contended a long time with the Ducal houfe of Holflein, and waged war with Sweden, by which means at length Slefwick was again united to the Danifh crown. After thefe troubles Denmark enjoyed a feries of peaceable and happy times under ChriflianYl. which are ftill continued in the reign of Frederick 'V. the auguft Monarch who now fits on the throne of this Kingdom. §. 16. His Danijh majefty's title at full length is as follows : ' Frederick f V. by the grace of God, King of Denmark and Norway, of the Vandals ' and Goths, Duke of Slefwick, Holflein, Stormarn, and Ditmarfch, Count c of Oldenburg and Dehnenhorß.' The royal Arms are parted by the Danebrog-crofs into 4 principal quarters. In the 1. Or, three lions paffant gardant azure, furrounded with nine hearts gules, for Denmark. In the 2. Gules, a lion rampant crowned or, holding a Danijh battle-ax argent, for Norway. In the 3. Azure, three crowns or 2 and i, for Sweden. In the 4. Or, a lion leopardized azure, with nine hearts gules, for ancient Gothland. The inefcutcheon quarterly, in the 1. Or, two lions paffant azure, for the Dutchy of Slefwick. In the 2. Gules, three nettle leaves argent pierced with three nails of the crofs ; thefe leaves are charged with a fmall efcutcheon argent, for the Dutchy of Holflein. In the 3. Gules, a cygnet argent gorged with a crown or, for Stormarn. In the 4. Gules, a cavalier armed argent, holding a fword, pommelled or, for Ditmarfch. Upon all an inefcutcheon in the centre party per pale or, two bars gules, for Dehnenhorß ; and azure, a crofs pattee or, for Jutland. The Juppoiters are two lavages armed with clubs. §. 17. The principal order of knighthood in Denmark is that of the Elephant, or the blue ribband, which is fuppofed to derive its origin from Canut VI. in the 12th century. Its enfign or badge is a white enamelled Elephant appendant to a blue ribband, worn over the left (houlder to the right fide. On the left breaft thefe knights wear a filver ltar of eighj rays, with the Dam-brog-cYols in the middle of it. The fecond order of knighthood in this kingdom is the Dauebrog ordet, or the white ribband, which was iirft inftituted by Waldemar II. The badge of this order is a crofs of gold, ena- melled 77 78 DENMARK. melled and Set with eleven diamonds. This hangs at a watered white ribband with a red border, which is worn over the right fhoulder to the left fide. On the right breaft thefe knights wear a filver Star of eight rays, in which a crofs is to be feen, with the word Reflitutor thus divided, RE-STI- TV-TOR, and the name of Chriflian V. in the middle. Both thefe orders were revived by Chrißian V. and have their particular ftatutes, collars, and motto's. §. 1 8. Whether Denmark was anciently an elective or hereditary king- dom, is a difputable point ; fome hiftorians maintaining the former, and others affirming the latter. Though we Should allow that the Daniß crown was not hereditary, it is, however, certain, that the States did commonly make their choice out of the royal family; and that they alfo fometimes de- parted from that cuftom. The kings of the Oldenburg branch were ele&ed by the States, till the reign of Frederick III. who made the crown hereditary in the male and female line of the royal family in 1660, and, by the free confentof the whole nation rendered Denmark quite an abfolute monarchy. Upon this, the fundamental laws of the kingdom were abolifhed ; and the Regal Law, fubfcribed by that monarch on November 14, 1665, and pub- lished by Frederick IV. on September 4, 1 709, was eftablifhed in their place. This was called Lex Regia, becaufe Frederick III. prefcribed it as the (land- ing rule for his fuccefiors on the throne of Denmark, which they were in- violably to obferve. To this, indeed, he had aright, as being the founder of abfolute monarchy in this kingdom. The order of fucceffion is fo clearly pointed out and determined in thefe Inftitutes, that it is not more exactly re- gulated in any kingdom in the world. The king of Denmark is invefled with an abfolute power in his kingdoms ; acknowledges no Superior, either in Spirituals or temporals, but God ; and is not accountable to his Subjects for his conduct*. The anointing or inauguration, in Denmark, is now no more than a religious ceremony. §.19. The Supreme College was inftituted in 1676, and is the privy coun- cil, or council of ftate. It conlifts at prefent of four members; and the king himfelf is Prefident. There is no Great Chancellor at this time. Under the Supreme College there are two Chanceries, namely, 1 . TheDW/ftChancery, which was inftituted on its prefent footing in 1 660, and confifts of a Protonotary, aMafter of Requefts, Several other Secretaries one of which is a feudal Secretary, two Chancery Solicitors, Notaries, Regi- sters, &c. In this Chancery all petitions for places in the Courts of judica- ture in Denmark and Norway, as alfo for ecclefiaftic and civil employments, * The/ we have no great reafon to revere the memory öf Frederici III. who acquired abfo- lute power at the Ex pence of his fubjedts Liberty, though the Author here fpeaks of this fatal change in their form of Government, and of the happy times that fucceeded it, in too favourable terms. &C, DENMARK. 79 &c . are preferred. The Protonotary together with the principal Secretaries, and two other perfons, as affiftants, constitute a Chancery-College. 2. The German Chancery, which was inftituted in 1688, and confifts of" a Protonotary, a Chancery Sollicitor, and feveral Secretaries. All petitions relating to the affairs of Slejivick, Holßein, and Oldenburg are given into this Court. It alfo carries on the correfpondence by difpatches, with foreign Courts and Ambafiadors; and all treaties and alliances concluded with foreign powers, are difpatched by this College. The members of the weekly Chancery-Seffion are the Protonotary, fome other Secretaries, and two foreigners, as affiftants. The other Colleges are as follows : 1. The Military Chancery for the land fervice, which confifts of a Proto- notary, a keeper of the Archives, or Recorder, a Chancery-Sollicitor, feveral Chancery clerks, or Curfitors, notaries, &c. This College has the care of the military promotions, regulations in the army, and in general the direc- tion of whatever relates to war. But the peculiar military oeconomy or management is committed to the General Commißion for the land fervice, whofe province it is to provide for the king's military forces by land. Thefe Commiffioners pay, maintain, and recruit the army, fill the magazines, keep the fortifications in repair, and have the care of the artillery in the two King- doms, the Dutchies, and the Counties. To this College are fubjecf all General Commiffaries of war, all officers that have the care of provisions, ar- fenals, and building materials ; and magistrates, and other civil officers are under their jurifdicfion, as far as they have any concern in the marching and quartering of the army. The money expended by this College is ifiued out by the Deputies of the Finances ; and it is immediately under the king's command. The officers of this College are, a Book-keeper, three Com- miffary-clerks, who belong to three diftinct offices, namely, the Danifl, Norwegian, and German office ; and a Regit ler. 2. The military Chancery for the fea-Jervice, which confifts of a Protonotary and Chancery-Sollicitor, and has the care of the naval promotions, and like- wife the ordering or directing what concerns the Marine and harbours. But the peculiar management of naval affairs is under the General Marine Commißon, which has been united with the College of Admiralty fince the year 1746. The Admiralty-college was inftituted in 1660, and is to be considered partly as a College, as it has the command over the fleet, and every thing relating to it, and partly as a fuperior court of judicature ; fince all the fentences palled by the inferior court of admiralty, come before this Court. The inferior Court of admiralty has power over all civil and military fubaltern officers in the Navy. The members of the Admiralty-college, together with the civil Affeffor, fit in the high court of Admiralty. The Manne Commißon provides neceftaries for building (hips, and every thing that relates to the fleet. 4 J. The 8o D E N M A R K. 3. The Rent- Chamber or Treafury, and the College for thkFhiänm. Thefe were formerly neither lb important, nor fo well regulated as they äre'at pre- sent. Frederick IV. firft inftituted the Treafury ; for he aholilhed the Col- lege of Treafurers, and in their room appointed a fingleTreaftrrer and/Vice- Treafurer. He alio introduced the College for the Finances, which confifts of Deputies for the Finances, and Commiflioners of the College of Finances. The Deputies, indeed, in concert with the CommilTioners, direct all affairs relatino-totheFinances; but the former have the fole management of the pub- lic monev, make dilhurfements according to the ftate of the fpecie or ready money in the treafury, and fubferibe all contrails, &c. The Commiflioners are intruded with the care of every thing elfe that relates to the revenues, and of the imports in money and corn. They likewife farm the public revenues, and have the infpection of every thing that may tend to the improvement or augmentation of them. They alio fubferibe all rcprefentations, which the Chamber makes to the king, &c. The Chamber of Finances has two Chan- ceries ; namely, the Danijh or Northern, which has a Secretary and two Agents ; and the German Chancery, which confifts of a Secretary and an Agent. The Chamber Court of judicature is provided with a Justiciary and on Agent; who are to manage the judicial proceedings of the Chamber. The correfpondence of the Chamber-college is carried on, and the accompts of the Collectors are infpected and adjufted by 17 Clerks of the revenues. Thefe clerks have their refpective departments and offices, which include all the king's dominions ; namely, feven offices and as many clerks for Den- mark, five for Norway, and five for the German dominions : There is alfo an Agent in every one of thefe offices. This being premifed, I fhall treat more particularly of his Danijh Majefty's revenues in §. 21. 4. The General College for the i?npro-jemefit of manufactures and commerce was inftituted December 30, 1735, and confifts of Deputies and Com- miflioners for the domeftic and commercial departments, and of a Danijh and German Secretary. This College has the direction of every thing that may promote the encreale of domeftic trade, manufactures, fiftieries, and all new foundations or eftablilhments. By virtue of a royal ordinance iflued in the year 1753, every Deputy has his particular department ; but is under the controll or check of the General College. 5. The General Ecclefiajlical College of InfpeBion was inftituted by Chriflian VI. in the year 1737. It ordinarily confifts of fix members, namely, three laymen and as many Divines, who are all called General Ecclefiafiical Infpec- tors. The third Lay Infpector is alfo Secretary of the College, and has one or two Secretaries or Curfitors under him. This College has the general direction of all ecclefiaftical affairs in Denmark and Norway, and infpects into the behaviour of the clergy and the ftate of the Univerfities and Schools, in their jurifdiction ; pafs their cenfure on all theological treatifes and books DENMARK. 81 books on religious controverfies. This college is alfo under the king's im- mediate jurifdidtion. 6. The Sixth and lafl College is that of the General Poß-oßce, which has the direction of the polls in the two kingdoms, the Dutchies, and Counties; audits the accounts of the Poft-rriafters, and in general infpects into their conduct. This Office has its Directors, Treasuries, and Revijion Chamber. They make their representations- to the king by the Chanceries. §. 20. Every Stifts- Amt, i.e. Diocefe or General Government, has its Stifts- Amtmann or General Governor, who always is a perfon of distinc- tion, and generally a knight of one of the Orders. His power is very great, and extends to Spiritual ns well as temporal and judicial matters. He has authority likewiSe over the revenues, towns and country within his proper jurisdiction. Under the Stifts-Amtmann are the Amtmänner, i.e. Prefects, who are alfo noblemen and knights of feme Order, or at leaSt perSons of distinction. The Prefects have no power in the towns within their jurisdic- tion, for it extends only to the open Country : They alfo infpect into ju- dicial affairs and the revenues. In every Amt or Prefecture there is a Col- lector, who is immediately Subject to the Rent Chamber at Copenhagen. Thefe are Stiled either Sollicitors or Secretaries ; but they have no manner of con- cern with judicial affairs. The civil government in the cities and great towns is lodged in a Burgomaßer and council 3 but in Smaller towns in the Byevcgf, or king's Headborough. Many towns have a royal Prefident be- sides, and Several of them have the right of holding courts of ju Slice ; So that their Sentence is not confirmed by the common Provincial court, but is referred directly to the Supreme College at Copenhagen. The Codex Chrißianeus, or the body of Datiijh Laws, which excellent work was published in 1683 by ChriJlianY . is the only law obServed in Denmark, and no foreign laws are of any force there. Befides the Town-courts of judicature, and thofe held by the nobility in their own manors, there are three other Courts ; viz. the 'Ting-Court, Land- Court, and the Supreme Tribunal. The Ting-Court is commonly the court before which caufes are firft brought, as well in towns as in the Country ; and every Herred, (Nomarchia, Prepofitura, Provincia minor) or fmal) di- strict confifling of 40 or 50 villages or hamlets, has its Head-borough or Judge, and a Secretary. Eight peaSants, who are called the Stocfcemanner, aSfiftat thefe courts as witneSSes. The Se courts are held weekly, and in the trial .of criminal caufes, the Headborough of the Herredor district is afiiSted by the faid Stockemanner or Medomfmanner. From this inferior Court an appeal lies to the hand or Provincial Court, or ASTizes, which commonly confifts of two judges called Landdommere, and a Secretary. Such a Pro- vincial Court is held once every month in Seeland at Ringßedt, in Funen at Odenfe, in Jutland at Wiborg, and in Laaland at Marieboe. The laSt Vol. I. M refort, 8 2 DENMARK. refort, and from which lies no appeal, is the Supreme Tribunal at Copenhagen-, which is held almoft all the year round at the place where the king refides, and is opened by the king in perfon every year, about the beginning of March. As to the judicial proceedings in the Dutchy of Holjlein, an account will be given of them in their proper place. §. 21. The royal Revenues arife, Firfl, from the taxes paid by the Farming-Peafanfs for odeh or free- holds, and contributions of provifions, in Norway ; from duties on corn, oxen, and bacon in Denmark ; and from redeemed eftates, &c. Secondly, from thee uftoms, particularly thofe of the Sound, Kolding, and Norway. A toll in paffing from the Northern Ocean into the Eaft Sea or Baltic, and vice verja, is paid in all thele Straits, viz. at Hel/ingoer, Ny- borg, and Fridericia ; but the principal cuftomhoufe is at Hel/ingoer, in the Ocrefund or Sound. For feveral years paft between 4 and 5000 fliips have failed annually through the Sound ; but in 1752, above 6000 fliips, a number un- heard of before, paffed through thefe Straits. In general, the toll is on an equal footing with refpecl to all nations, except the Hamburgers, who are obliged to pay more than others for paffing through the Sound. The Englißi, Dutch, Sivedijh, and French fliips are not fearched, when they are provided with proper paffes, according to treaties: They alfo'pay down only one per cent. for fuch goods as are not fpecified in the Tariff. All other nations are obliged to pay one and a quarter per cetit. and fubmit to be fearched ; and, if they are unprovided with particular papers, they muft pay zRofenobci, or two, be- fides. With regard to the Hanfe-towns, that lie on the Baltic, there is a great variety in the toll they pay ; for almoft every one of thofe towns is treated with in particular. It muft be obferved, in general, that the tolls are now either farmed out, or collected by officers appointed for that purpofe ; and that there are controllers appointed, by the king, over the farmers and officers. Thirdly, from the excife and confumption. Fourthly, from fines, the poft-office, difpenfations and ftampt paper. The revenues arifing from the poft-office are appropriated for penfions, and for carrying on the foreign miffions. Fifthly, From the capitation, or Poll-tax, which, however, is never im- pofed but upon extraordinary occafions. Laßly, from the portion of tithes which formerly belonged to the bifliops, but after the Reformation were annexed to the Crown; hence they are called the royal tithes. In the Dutchy of Slefwkk, and his fnojefly's German dominions, the kings revenues arife either from thofe above- mentioned, or from additional Sources: They amount to 6,000,000 of Rix- dollars. §. 22. The king's military forces in the kingdom of Denmark, the Dutchies, and Counties, conlift of the horfe life-guards ; 1 regiment of Cuiraffier- DENMARK. 83 Cuiraffier-guards, and i regiment of Dragoon-guards ; 9 other regiments of Cuiraffiers ; 2 regiments of foot life-guards, one of which confifts en- tirely of Grenadiers, and is called the Grenadier corps ; the King's own re- giment, the Queen's regiment, and the Prince-royal's own regiment ; bolides 9 regiments of infantry enlifted, 7 national regiments of infantry, and a re- giment for garrilbns. In Norway there are 5 national regiments of Ca- valry, 2 enlifted, and 13 national regiments of Infantry, and the Skielober, or light troops, confifting of 5 or 6 hundred men. An enlifted regiment of cavalry confifts of 8, and an enlifted regiment of infantry of 12 compa- nies; but the National regiments are more complete than the enlifted. The Artillery is not included in the above account. The King of Denmark's whole military force amounts to 59,289 men. §. 23. The Danes have from ancient times, and particularly fince the time of Chrijiian IV. been very powerful and fuccefsful at Sea. Chrijiian V. and Frederick IV. have performed great exploits with the Danijh fleet. It coniifts of 34 fhips of the Line, 16 frigats, and a number of gallies, which ufually amount to 50. Since the year 1755, the feamen which are in conftant pay confift of 4 divifions : Each divifion contains 10 compa- nies, with a company of artillery; and they amount all together to 4400 men. The number of regiftered feamen, with which the fleet may be manned upon an emergency, is about 24,000 ; which in Denmark are diftri- buted in fix diftricts, and in as many in Norway, being under the direction of certain officers appointed for that purpofe. Prahmen or floating Block- houfes are. ufed, upon occafion, with great fuccefs in the Baltic. The fleet is laid up at Copenhagen ; and the naval ftores and materials for fhip- building are in great plenty on the old and new Holm., and in the Maga- zine which is kept in very regular order. But of this and other edifices belonging to the Navy, more will be faid in the account of Copenhagen. There is alfo a company of Sea-Cadets in Denmark, which was inftituted by Frederick IV. in the year 1701. M 2 I. The 84 DENMARK. [Seeland. THE Danish Islands: AND FIRST, The Diocese, or General Government of SEELAND. THIS Stifts-amt or Diocefe is the firft in order, and comprifes, befides the ifland of Seeland, the iflands Amack, Moen, Bornholm, Chrißianfoe, Samfoe in the Cattegat, and other fmaller iflands. The Ißand of S e e l a n d. Seeland or Zeeland (Seelandla) in Danifh Saland, or Sialland, is encom- pafled by the great Belt, the Baltic Sea, the Sound, and the Cattegat. Its name, according to fome, fignifies a country abounding with corn, and fit for tillage. Others derive it from Sio, the Sea (for, in the old Ißandißo mo- numents it is called Sioland), and are of opinion that it denotes a mari- time country, or an ifland. Seela?id is the largeif of all the Daniflj iflands, being 16 or 17 geographical miles * in length, and from 13 to 14 in breadth. The foil is very fertile, and produces extraordinary fine barley, of which good malt is made; and a great quantity of the latter is exported from this ifland. It alfo yields plentiful crops of fine oats ; but the rye that grows here is fufficient only for home confumption. Here are fer- tile meadows of a beautiful verdure, and woods of oak and beach ; efpe- cially in the Prefectures of Frederickjhurg, Wordingburg, Soroe, and An- derjkoio : But in the country lying between Copenhagen and Rofchild, and between the former and Kioge, there are no woods to be feen : Hence the inhabitants of thefe parts chiefly ufe turf for fuel. The lakes in this ifland are, 'Tirfoe, which lies a few miles fouth of Kallundbcrg, the Vinflruper- lake, between Soroe and Ncflioed, the three lakes near Soroe, &c. Some of thefe lakes are pretty large ; and they are all well flocked with fifli. The * The Author does not fpecify what miles lie reckons by in this and feveral other places in this work, I render them geographical or German miles, which I prefume he means by miles in general. Seeland.] DENMARK. 85 rivers, which are in every part of Seeland, abound alfo in fifh. The largeft of thefe rifes above Ringjledt, and falls into a bay of the Baltic below Neßwed. The largeft bay is that of Ifefwrd, which runs out of the Cat- tegat into the land and divides into two arms, one of which extends to Holbeck, the other to Rofchild. Copenhagen is the beft harbour in Seeland ; and next to that, the port of Kallundborg. In the Diocefe or Government of Seeland, exclufive of Copenhagen, the number of burials amounts annu- ally to about 6000. The whole ifland is divided into fixteen Amts, or Pre- fectures, which are, I. The Prefecture of Copenhagen, which confifts of three Herreds or diftridts, viz. i. The Herred of Sochelund, in which there are twelve churches. 2. The Herred of Oeiflyke, containing eight churches. 3. The Herred of Smorum, containing fourteen churches. Within this Prefecture are the following places of note. Copenhagen, which is the place where the court refides, and the Capital of the kingdom of Denmark. This city is called in Danijh, Kiobenhavn, an- ciently, Kiobmandßiavn, i. e. the Merchants harbour, on account of its beau- tiful harbour and commodious fituation for trade, and in Latin Hafnia. It lies on the Baltic or Eaß-Sea, in 55 , 40', 59" North Latitude, about five geographical miles from Oerefund or the Sound. Its fituation is marfhy and low; but on the land fide there are feveral beautiful lakes, which furnifh the inhabitants with plenty of frefh water. The adjacent country, or environs, is very pleafant ; and directly oppofite to the city lies the fertile ifland of Amack, which forms the harbour : But this ifland fhall be more fully de- fcribed in its proper place. The city makes a magnificent appearance at a diftance, and extends, from the Weft-gate to the Norway-gate in the cita- del, 4140 Seeland ells * in length, and from the North-gate to the Amack- gate it is 3120 ells in breadth, fo that its circuit muft be 12,600 ells, or a geographical mile and 600 ells. The Gother-flreet, which runs in a ftrait line acrofs the whole city, and divides the Cid from the New Tow??, is above 4200 feet long, the breadth of the king's market and the area about the new harbour included. This metropolis contains 4 royal caftles, 10 parifh and 9 other churches ; a confiderable number of public and pri- vate palaces, above 4000 Burgher's houfes, feveral of which are inhabited by 10 or more families; 1 1 markets and public places, areas, or fcuiares, 186 ftreets, and 100,000 Inhabitants. Since the year 1746, the annual lift of births has amounted, at leaft, to 2592, and in feme years to 2813. During the fame period the number of bur ials at the loweft, has amounted an- nually to 2594, and, at the higheft, to 3386, without including the fick'y * It were to be wifhed the Author had made ufe of fome meafure better known than the i/ell ; or had acquainted the reader with the exact length of it, as ells vary in every country. \ ear 86 DENMARK. [Seeland. year 1750, when the burials amounted to 4317. C. Bartholin, and R. S. Henrici, have demonftrated the falubrity of the air at Copenhagen in parti- cular differtations wrote on that fubject. This city is divided into three principal parts, viz. Old-Copetihagen, New-Copenhagen, and Chri/lians- hafen. The two lafl being more modern than the firft, are laid out in broad flreets running in a ftrait line. In Old-Copenhagen, indeed, mofl of the ftreets, fince the lafl great fire, are of a fufficient breadth; but the old windings could not entirely be avoided. The expence the city is at in keeping the flreets clean amounts yearly to 10 or 12,000 Rix-dollars. In the night the city is illuminated with lanthorns. The houfes in the prin- cipal flreets and areas are al mofl entirely built with brick; but in the lanes mofl of the buildings are of timber : However, they make a fine ap- pearance in general; fo that Copenhagen may be looked upon as one of the mofl beautiful and magnificent cities in Europe. In fome parts of the city there are deep canals, into which large fhips may enter, and, to the great conveniency of fea-faring and trading people, may lade and unlade quite clofe to the houfes and warehoufes. Befides the above three general divi- fions, the city is divided into 12 Quarters, and the Burghers into as many Companies, which have all their particular Colours. It is to be cbferved, that the Weft and Eaft Quarter of St. Anne make only one Company ; and that the Fire-Company conftitutes the twelfth. Of thefe I come now to fpeak more particularly. The Old 'Town, confifts of the following Quarters, viz. 1. The North Quarter, the places of note in which are, The German church, dedicated to St. Peter, which at the time of the Reformation, was the principal parifh-church. It was afterwards converted into a foundery; but in 1585 it was given to the Germans, and made a Parifh-church again in 16 18. The damage this church fuflained in the great fire, was foon repaired. The ftruclure is very old, and of a mid- dling fize. The Walkcndorf College in Peters ftreet, which was formerly a Carme- lite monaftery, but was by the Lord Steward Chriflopher Walkendorf con- verted into a College for 16 ftudents, in the year 1595. Every one of thefe ftudents enjoys a yearly penfion of 30 Rix-dollars in money. 2. The Weft quarter, in which place of note are, The Hay-market. The great Wartow-ho(p\ta], one of the nobleft foundations for the poor in the city. This foundation is very ancient ; but the edifice is new, and very fpacious ; and the endowment is fo confiderable, that fome hundreds may be maintained in this hofpital. It contains at prefent above 300 beds for the fick and poor ; and every one of them, befides his lodging gratis, has weekly half a Pjx-dollar allowed him. A fmall, commodious, neat church, [Seeland. DENMARK. 87 church, ftands clofe to the hofpital, which is (o contrived, that the fick and bed-ridden may hear divine fervice, and fermons in their beds. The Place or area near the water-engine, as it is called. The City-Prifon, called the SchlieJJ'erey, which has its particular church. The Orphan-houfe, which takes up one entire fide of the New-market^ and is a considerable ornament to the Place, or fquare. Formerly there flood on this area a palace belonging to the family of the Counts of Friis, which Chrifiian V. purchafed, and, in 1691, turned into an Academy, which was opened the year following: But, in the year 1712, it was con- verted into a military fchool for the Land-Cadets. As thefe Cadets were afterwards removed to the edifice called the Opera-houje, this Structure was rebuilt, and appropriated for the education of orphans. After this the late great fire deftroyed the new edifice before it was quite finifhed ; and the pre- fent large building was begun in 173 1, andfinimedin 1734- In this Orphan- houfe 100 poor children, namely, 60 boys and 40 girls, have been hereto- fore maintained, educated, and inftructed ; but at prefent the number is encreafed to 108. A particular Church, Difpenfary, bookfeller's fhop, printing-houfe, and Library belong to this foundation. In this edifice alio two colleges hold their ordinary meetings, namely, the General Eccleji- aßical College of Infpeclion, and the Collegium de Curfu Evangelii prc- movendo. The Council-houfe, which is a new Structure and ftands quite detached from other buildings. It alfo feparates the Old from the New Market. In the Old Market is a fine fountain, which was begun in the year 1634; and in the New, there is a walled place for the execution of malefactors. The Royal Palace, which is fituated near the citadel of Gbfifiianfiurg, Here formerly ftood the Wigatid-Houk, which was fo called from the owner, a considerable merchant, who likewife built the beft part of the ad- joining ftreet, which is alfo called by his name. When Frederick IV. be- ;;un to rebuild the old palace, he bought this hüufe for the Prince Royal, for whole refidence it was fitted up and enlarged ; and in 1743 and 1744 it was embellifhed with a very elegant new front. The Weft Gate, which was rebuilt in 1668 by Frederick III. This is more frequented than any of the other City Gates. 3. The Clothiers Quarter, in which are the following places of note. St. Mary's Church. This is the Collegiate Church, and was rebuilt from the foundation after the great fire. Here the Bifhops of both kingdoms are ufually confecrated. The tower of this church is 380 feet high, and has a fine ring of bells in it. This is reckoned the nobleft tower in Copenhagen, and ftands on the higheft fpot in the whole city. The Grammar-School, which confifts of üve claffes or forms. The Univerfity. King Erich of Psmerania firft obtained of Pope Martin V. by a bull, the liberty of erecting an Univerfity in his kingdom. But as 4 this 88 DENMARK. [Seeland. this defign proved abortive, an Univerfity was afterwards founded by Chrifiian I. with the confent of Pope Sextus V. in the year 1478, which was- libe- rally endowed by the lucceeding kings of Denmark. Chrifiian III. reftored the Univerfity from its decaying condition, and his Succeffors greatly im- proved it ; but it is chiefly indebted to Chri/tianVl. for its prefent flourifhing llate. The Univerfity Building includes the Royal Community, or the Cloißer in which formerly 1 00 poor Students had two meals a day provided for them ; but, at prefent, they receive a certain penfion in lieu of provifion. In this Edifice they hold their daily difputations. It likewife comprifes the Rector's houfe and other buildings, with the Confiftory, the Auditories or halls, &c. To the Univerfity älfo belong four fpacious colleges, which are well endowed for the maintenance of the young ftudents gratis. The Walkendorf -co\- lege has been mentioned already in the North Quarter. The other three are, The Regency, or the Royal College, which Chrifiian IV. founded, in 1 6 1 8, and allotted for 120 Students ; but at prefent not above 100 ftudents relide in it. It is governed by a Provoft and feveral Infpectors. The Collegium Elerßanum, which was founded by George Elers for 16 Stu- dents, who endowed it by will with 30,000 Rixdollars. The Borrichian College, otherwife called Collegium Mediceum, is the moft elegant and beft endowed of all the private foundations. The cele- brated and learned O/aus Borrichius erected this college in 1689 for 16 Danifi and Norwegian Students. Every Student has apartments gratis for five years, and an annual penfion of 60 Rixdollars. The Library, and the Cabinet of Curiofities which joined to this college were burnt down in 1728, but have been fince, in fome meafure, reftored. The Coal-market. The North Gate, which is the moft elegant of all the gates, and was erected in 1 67 1, and the Friderichsburg or Schieden market are alfo in this Quarter. 4. The Freemen's Quarters, in which are The Gray Friars Market, or Uhlefeld's-Place, where formerly ftood the palace of Count Uhlefeld; and after that palace was razed to the ground a ftone monument of infamy, in the form of a pyramid, was erected on the fpot, as appears by the infcription on the four fides of it. The Amack-market , where the peafants of the ifie of Amack expofe their goods to fale. The church of the Holy Ghoft, or rather the church of the Holy Gue/ls, which derives its name from a large hofpital or Guefl-houje, that formerly ftood near it, and was converted into a Houfe of Correction by Chrifiian IV. This Church was rebuilt after the fire of 1728. 5. Snarren's-Quavter. (). The Strand-Quarter, in which the places of note are The Seeland.] DENMARK. 89 The magnificent new royal Palace of Chrifliansburg. Several old mean buildings formerly flood on the fpot where this palace is erecled. In 1 1 68 the celebrated Bifhop Abfolon built a caltle or palace in this place, which, after his family name, he called Axel-honfe. This caftle was afterwards in- habited and improved by the Kings of Denmark. Cbrijiian III. Cbriftißn IV. and Frederick IV. enlarged and embellilhed it. However, though it was very irregularly built, Cbrijiian VI. caufed the whole building, and the adjoining Burghers houfes which had been purchafed, to be pulled down in 173 i; and the following year laid the foundation of the prefent fpacious and magnificent palace, which was finifhed in the year 1740. The firfl floor is called the Ladies Story, becaufe mod: of the Ladies and Gentlemen belong- ing to the court, who are in waiting, have their apartments there. The royal treafury and private calh office are alfo kept here ; and in other apartments the king's Court of juflice, and the Burghers-court are held. The office of the General Superintendence of the Buildings has alfo an apartment in this ffory. In the fecond or Royal Story, the apartments are adorned with all the magnificence and elegance imaginable. The Supreme Court of Judicature is alfo held in this ffory. The Prince Royal's Story is (q called, becaufe his Highnefs and the princeffes royal have their apartments in it, which are extremely elegant and well contrived. The royal chapel in the palace is very beautiful and magnificent within. In fhort, the whole palace makes a noble appearance, and yields a moft en- chanting profpect every way. The parade is in the area or court of the old palace. The Chancery joins with the Palace by means of a Corridor, or covered gallery, and is a very magnificent fr.ruc~r.ure : It was erected by Frederick IV. In the lowed" ftory, which is vaulted, the archives of the kingdom are kept. In the fecond ftory is the apartment where the king's privy Council meet. In this ffory alfo the Chanceries of both kingdoms, and of the German do- minions, the military Colleges, and the College of the Finances generally meet. The third ftory is for the moft part occupied by the offices and officers belonging to the Rent-Chamber, or Treafury. The Edifice, in the firft ftory of which is the Arfenal ; and in the fecond, the king's library, which is above 200 feet long, and contains about 60 or 70,000 volumes, is alfo in this Quarter. The arrangement of the books in this library refembles that of the Biblioteca della Minerva at Rome. In the third are the royal Cabinet of Curiofities, the picture-gallery, and the cabinet of medals ; and in the fourth ftory is the cabinet of models. The magazine for Provifions. The Port Office. The Exchange, which is a grand edifice in the Gothic tafte. This ftructure is 406 feet in length, 66i in breadth, and, for the greateft part, was built in the year 1624 by Cbrijiian IV. The loweft ftory is laid out Vol. I. N in 9 o DENMARK. [Seeland. in ware-houfes, which are very commodious for the merchants ; for, on both fides of the Exchange, there are canals, where the (hips may He clofe to the ware-houfes, lb that the goods may be commodioufly laded or un- laded from them. In the fecond ftory, in the north fide, is the place where the merchants ufually meet. In the middle, and down the whole length, on both fides, is a range of {hops; and in one wing of the fouth fide is the Royal Bank, and in the other the Royal Magazine, where mod of the cloths, filks, fluffs, &c. which are made in the City, are depofited, and from thence are fold in the grofsto merchants and dealers. The fifh-market lies alfo in this quarter. 7. The Rofenburg-Qnzxttv, in which the places of note are, Trinity-Church, which Chrißian IV. caufed to be built in 1637 for the benefit of the Students only; but, in 1683, it was made a parifh church. It is commonly called the Round Church on account of its round tower. The arched roof of it, which is pretty high, is fupported by two rows of» octangular pillars, which are extremely (lender, fo that the church feems to be a very light building. This edifice fuffered lefs than the other churches in the great fire in 1728, and was foon repaired. The greater! lofs here- abouts was the noble collection of books belonging to the Univerfity, which were kept in a large room over the arched roof of this church. This li- brary was remarkable for the great number of books and curious manu- fcripts it contained ; but it was entirely defbroyed by the fire. However, a new library has been fince collected, in which there are feveral very valuable manufcripts relating to the Northern Hiftory. The tower of this church is a mafter-piece in its kind, and was defigned by the celebrated aftronomer Chrißian Logomontan. It is round, 1 1 5 feet in height, and 54 feet in thicknefs, being flat on the top and furrounded with an iron balluftrade. The afcent is fpiral, and fo fpacicus and eafy, that a coach and horfes may go up and come down again with eafe ; which experiment was tried by Peter the Great, in 171 6. This tower is defigned for an obfervatory. The curious aftronomical and mathematical inftruments, invented by Tycho Brake, O/aus Romer and others, which were kept here, were all conlumed by the great fire in 1728. The large, valuable celeftial globe was the moft remarkable thing in this obfervatory, being one of the moft curious inftruments con- ftructed by Tycho de Brake. This globe, after that great aftronomer was obliged to fly from thence, was brought from the ifland of Huecn, was car- ried to Denmark, and from thence to Prague in Bohemia. From Prague it was carried to P. natica, from Benatica again to Prague; from thence it was conveyed to Neiße in Siic/ia ; and, in 1632, it fell into the hands of Prince Ulrick of Denmark, at the plundering of that town, and was brought to Denmark a fecond time, and depofited at fi ft in the hall of the Academy. It was afterwards removed to the Round Tower, where it remained till it was confumed to afhes. This extraordinary globe toft 5000 Rixdollars. After Seeland.] DENMARK. Aiter the fire Chriflian VI. made a prefcnt to the library of a great number of valuable books, and was at the expence of procuring the mod curious and valuable mathematical and aftronomical initruments to fupply the place of thofe that were burnt. This collection has been fmce confiderabiy in- creafed by prefents of books, &c. and is ftill kept over Trinity Church : it is open five days in the week for the benefit of the Curious. On the tower there is to be feen a femi-hieroglyphical infcription, the meaning of which is as follows : DoSlrinam & jußitiam dir ige, Jehova, in cor de coronati Ckrißiani quart i. 1642. The church of the Reformed, or Cahinißs, in which the minifters preach in French and high Dutch, is a fmall neat edifice. 8. The Manufacturers Quarter. 9. The Eaft Quarter, in which the places of note are, The Church of St. Nicholas, which is the larger! in the city, next to St. Marys, and the belt ornamented both infide and outfide. It was finifhed in 1 5 1 7, and the roof is covered with copper. The tower was blown down, in 1628, by a violent ftorm; but was rebuilt in three years, namely, from 1663 to 1666 : It is the higheft and molt elegantly built in Copenhagen, ex- cepting that of St. Mary's. There are feveral curious monuirental infcrip- tions in this Church. The Bremer Holms-Church, which is alfo called the Admiralty-Church ; for it was at firft allotted for the ufe of the perfons, belonging to the navy ; but afterwards a large congregation of Burghers was ad ied to them. It was firft built in 1601, and altered into the form' of a crofs ; 1- fefiion of it as Prince Royal, and caufed the foundation oi a new edifice to be laid on the fpot where the old cadle flood ; and his queen, after his 1 accef- Seeland.] D E N M A R K. 97 acccfilon to the throne, continued the building; the king having made her a prefent of it In 1737 all the old building was quite pulled down, in order to render the new edifice as regular as it was pofiible ; and in 1739 it was finished, though every year iince new improvements and embellifh- ments have been continually made in it. The outfide has a very magnificent appearance ; nor is it lefs elegant within. The great hall deferves particular notice ; for it takes up the height of two ftories, and has a noble fountain in the middle, that throws up a column of water one or two and twenty feet high, which falls down again into a copper bafon. The chapel is elegant and well adorned, and the garden very magnificent, and at the extremity of it, directly oppofite to the palace, a new beautiful fummer houfe is ere&ed. On one fide of the garden is an eminence covered with trees, on which ftands the Norivay-hou/j as it is called, becaufe it is built in the Nßi*wggian tafle. In tins caflle Chri/iicin VI. died Auguß 6, 1746. The little town of Hirfchohn, to which Chrifiian VI. in 1739, granted the privileges of a city-, lies a little below this caflle. Sophienberg is a royal pleafure houfe fomething above half a geographical mile from Hir(chohn, and ftands on an eminence near the fea. It was built a few years ago by the Queen dowager Sophia Magdalena, and has a fine profpecl: towards the fea. The houfe is very commodious, and elegantly furnifhed. III. The Prefecture of Fredericksburg contains, 1. The Herred or diftrict of Liunge- Fredericksburg, in which are feven country churches, befides the following towns. llillerod is a pleafant town lying near the caftle of Fredericksburg, with a commodious hofpital, which was erected in 1726, by the king, for the maintenance of thirty infirm perfons. This hofpital was burnt down, to- gether with the whole town, in 1733; but was rebuilt in the following- year. The fchooi in this town was founded and endowed by Cbriflian IV. in the year 1633 ; and by an ordinance of Chrijlian V. every perfon that is created a knight of the order of the Elephant is obliged to contribute fome- thing towards this fchooi. Slangerup is a village fituated not far from the bay of Iftf.vd. King Erick Fjegod was born here. This made him very fond of the place ; and in 1 j 02 he granted it fome particular privileges, and built a convent and a church in it. In the reign of Frederick II. it was in a pretty flourifhing ftate, but afterwards fell to decay, (which was principally owing to the town of Fredericks-fund ;) and in 1724 it was confumed by fire. Clofe to this village is the place where king Sven EJlritfbn defeated Knut wiih a great ilaughter. Fredericks- fund Is a town which lies about a geographical mile from Slan- gerup. It ftands clofe by the fea, and is better fituated for navigation than the latter ; fo that it has engrolfed all the trade by which Slangerup fubfifted, which was chiefly by exporting corn. Vol. I. Ü 2. The 9 8 DENMARK. [Seeland. 2. The Herred of Stroe, which contains eleven churches. This Prefecture derives its name from the famous caftle of Frederick/- burg, which ftands at the diftance of four geographical miles from Copen- ht "7j, and one from Friedensburg, Chrifiian Iv. caufed the old building, which flood on this fpot, to be pulled down, and the prefent magnificent caftle of Fredericksburg to be built by the ableft and moil: celebrated archi- f • is in Europe. It ftands in a frefh water lake, and confute of three prin- cipal parts, each of which is furrounded with water; but they are all joined together by bridges. The firft divifion, to which you pafs over a bridge, relembles a horn-work, the front of which is quite round, and faced with f one. On both fides are feveral buildings lying in a (trait line, which ferve either as dwelling houfes for the artificers and other officers of the caftle, or (tables for horfes, &c. From hence you come over a (tone-bridge to a grand high tower, which ftands over the gate that leads into the fecond court of the caftle. On each fide of this court, to the right and left, ftands a magnificent building, in one of which are the king's kitchen, the Gover- nor's houfe, and feveral apartments for the noblemen belonging to theCourtj, and in the other the Amt man or chief magiftrate of this Prefecture relides. Out of this fecond court a fine flone bridge built over a deep canal leads to the grand portico of the principal entrance of the caftle, which is built with free ftone, and decorated with fculpture and gilding. The principal build- ing confiits of a corps de logis and two wings, four ftories high, which are all covered with copper, and adorned with feveral towers, of which the church tower is the higheft. Both the wings are joined to the front by a low building of one ftorv- Upon the firft entrance into the inner court of the caftle, the magnificence of the ftructure, the beauty of the marble, the elegance of the fculpture, and the coftlinefs of the gilding fills the beholder with wonder and aftonifhment. But what chiefly ftrikes the eye, is a no- ble imitation of the ancient architecture, which are the two grand arcades, ; -ie over the other, in the front of the building. They coniift of feven arches below, and as many above, which are built with free ftone, and em- bellished with ftatues that ftand either in niches, or detached from the wall, with many other ornaments. Near one of the wings is a beautiful fountain; and which way foever you turn your eyes in this inner court, curi- ous fculpture and a variety of other ornaments piefent themfelves to your In the church belonging to this caftle the eve is almoft dazzled by the glittering of gold, (ilver, curious marble, and other things of value \. which it is cnibeilifhed. The altar is of black marble, and the front of the table of the pureft filyer and ebony ; and the pulpit is made of the fame 'erials. From the gallery you have a view of the large pictures, with which the pilafters between the windows are decorated. In the windows and on the walls of this church the efcutcheons of the knights of the Danc- ing order, with their arms 3 names, and motto's are to be feen. The gal- lery Seeland.] DENMARK, 99 lerv leads to a fpacious place behind the altar, where the royal throne is creeled ; and on the walls, which are hung with crimfon velvet, are fcen the arms of all the knights of the order of the Elephant. The grand or- gan in this apartment is a fine toned inftrument, and is curiouflyembellilhed with fculpture and gilding. Formerly a fine organ of filver and ebony like- wile flood here. Both the royal clofets in the church are very beautiful and magnificent. The kings of Denmark are always anointed in this church. In the tower there is a fine ring of bells. All the apartments of the caille are very magnificent, efpecially the knights ball-room, which is over the church in the third ftory : it is quite as broad, and fomething longer than the latter. In this grand apartment, which was defigned for feftivity and all manner of diverfions, there is alio a noble organ. The gardens are very elegant, and at the extremity of them, Chriflian VI. caufed a fpacious fummer-houfe to be built in the year 174^. IV. The Prefe&ure of Kronburg confifls, 1. Of the Herred or diflrict of Liunge- Kronburg, which contains 8 churches. 2. Of the Herred of Holboe, confiding of 13 churches. The pafifh of Seebörg is remarkable for an ifland in a frefh water lake on which formerly flood the town of Soeborg, a place of great antiquity, where a great number of flate-prifoners were confined. Not far from it the old ruinous caflle of Gurre is to be feen. The parifh of I'lbirke is famous for a fine fpring called Helena's Well, which was held in great veneration in times of po- pery. In this diftridr. is alfo the king's demefne called Eßerum, which is ä verv pleafant woody fpot, watered by rivers and lakes abounding with fifh. A ftud of horfes is kept here at prefent. Before the Reformation, a verv rich and famous convent of Bernafdines flood in this place. It was founded in 1 1 50, and was the principal monaflery ofthat order in Denmark, from which all the Northern kingdoms were fupplied with monks. Laflly, not far from this place, near the Village Thiefvelde, a triangular pillar with Latin, Danijh, and German inferiptions was erected in 1738, in honour of Frederick iV. and Chriflian VI. for having put a flop to the prbgirefs of the FlytHg Sand, which, like a rapid flream, overwhelmed one tract of land and village after another, and threatened the befl part of Seeland with defo- lation. But for a long time no means could be devifed to put an end to this devaluation, till at lafl, in the reigns of the two monarchs above mentioned, a remedy was found out for this ev;I, and executed under the infptction of the Prefect Frederick von Gram, by the addrefs of JohnUlr.Rohl. At prefent this fandy wafle is covered with verdure, and looks like a fine meadow. In this Prefecture are the following towns and caflles. Helflngoer or El/hwre, Heifmgcra, a town fituated on the Oereßndcx Scand, directly over againft Heißiigburg in Schonen, on the declivity of a hill. It de- rives its name from the Heflrgers, an ancient Gothic colony. This place O 2 was loo DEN M A R IC [Seeland. was but a fmalltown, till king Erich of Pomcrcnia bellowed on it the pri- vileges of a city, in the year 1425. This is the riehen: and moll elegant town. in Seeland, except Copenhagen. It has two churches, in one of which, viz, St. Peters, the ministers preach in the German language ; a grammar fchool, in which 33 poor icholars are educated and maintained gratis-, and a good hofpita!, which was formerly a convent» but converted to this ufe in 1541. Helfingcer is a town of confiderable trade, and famous, as well on account of its being the place by which the Swedes and Norwegians ufually pais into Denmark, as for the toll, which is here paid by every lhip that fails through the Sound. On this account, every nation that trades to the Baltic has its Conful here, who appears for his countrymen at the Toll-booth, and defends their privileges on other occafions. The king's cuftom-houfe at Heljingoer is a fine new edifice. In the year 13 1 1 this city was laid wafte and plun- dered by the inhabitants of Roflock and Wijmar, and was facked a fecond time in 1522 by the combined fleet of the Hanfe-towns. Chrißian II. would have given this town up to the Dutch, but the inhabitants oppofed it ; on which account they incurred that monarch's difpleafure, and the toll or cuftom-houfe was removed to Copenhagen : However, it did not continue there long. The king was not concerned, or difpleafed, when Heljingoer was reduced to allies in the year 1522. On the north fide of this city Hands the famous caftle and important fort called Kronburg, Coronceburgiun, which was erected by Frederick II. be- tween the years 1574, and 1585. It is built with large blocks of hewn ftone in the moil durable manner, and makes the beft appearance of any of the old caftles in Denmark, excepting Fredericksburg. It is adorned with fcveral turrets and a variety offculpture, and has a church or chapel. The fortifications or works of this cattle are in excellent condition. Not far from Kronburg, near Hel/ingocr, and without the Red Gate, lies the royal pkafure-garden, which is pretty extenfive, and encompafled with a wall. A fummer-houfe was built in it by Frederick II. which has been fince im- proved by Chrißian V. On this fpot flood formerly a convent of Carmelite monks, which was founded in the year 1430. The Sound is half a geogra- phical mile or 1331 fathoms broad, oppofite to this caftle. There has al- syays been a jlrong caftle on this fpot, to defend the Sound, before the town of Ileijingoer was built. The moft ancient of thefe, that we have any ac- count of, v led Flunderburg-, and the laft of them was called Kroge or (,' ' -g. In 1659 the prefent fort was beiieged by the Swedes, and taken by ftratagim. Fredensborg, or Friedensburg, is a royal palace pleafantly fituated about two geographical miles from Kronburg. Frederick IV. was invited to build this palace by the charming fituation, on the fpot where formerly ftood a farm called Oejlrup, and ftables for breeding horfes. As the edifice was com- pleted in the year 1720, when the treaty of peace (Friedens-traftat ) concluded. Seeland.] DENMARK. icr concluded with Sweden, the king gave it this name. Frederick IV. wag extremely fond of this place, and often made it his refidence ; efpecially about the latter part of his reign. In order to render it in every refpect ele- gant and agreeable, whatever nature was wanting in, he endeavoured to fup- ply by art. The inner court is a regular octagon, which is formed by feven wings one ftory high, and the main building, which is directly oppofite to the principal entrance, makes the eighth fide. There is a fountain in the mid- dle of the court which is adorned with a marble ftatue reprefenting Peace, made at Florence, in the centre of it. The corps de logis, er main building, is in the form of a parallelogram ; it is covered with copper, and has a foa- ciouSj light and elegant fquare hall in the middle. The other apartments in both ftories are furnifhed in the moll elegant manner. The garden is not very extenfive ; but well laid out, and embellifhed with feveral itatues, vales, and other ornaments. It is furrounded with a large wood in which feveral viftas are cut, and affords plenty of game. From the palace there is a charming profpeel, as the eye commands almoft all the viftas at once > and at the end of them appears an extenfive lake called the E/firomer-hke, on which is a beautiful yatcht, that in winter lies under cover in a houfe built for the purpofe. Near the palace is alfo a fine orangery which is joined to it by a covered paffage, and an elegant church. In the wood ad- joining to the garden is the menagery, which is ftocked with a variety of beautiful tame and wild fowl. V. The Prefecture of Jagerspreis contains only the fingleiiZtrm/ or di- strict of Horn, in which are ten Churches. This Prefecture derives its name from Jäger/preis, a royal hunting feat, which is a very ancient ftructure. It was formerly- called Abrahamftrup, under which name mention is made of it in an inftrument dated asearlvas the year 1382. Frederick IV. and Chrißian VI. have enlarged this palace with new and elegant buildings, and alio much improved and embellifhed the old. The garden is neat and elegant, and the adjacent country is, in general, extremely pleafant. VI. The Prefecture of Roeskild conlifts, 1. Of the Herred or diftrict of So nunc, including 13 churches. 2. The Herred of Thune, containing 12 churches. 3. The Herred of Ramjoc, in which are ^churches. 4-. The Herred 'of Woldborg, including 12 churches. Within this Prefecture are the following towns and caftles. Roefkild or Rojchild, in Latin Roeßildia, or Roejontes, is an ancient and famous city, lituated about a quarter of a geographical mile from the ex- tremity of the bay of Ifefiord. This city derives its name from Roe, the eleventh king of Denmark, who was the founder of it, and the word kiide, which I02 DENMARK. [Seeland. which figniftes a fpring ; for there are feveral excellent fprings on the fpot where it {lands. Hence it appears that Roe/kild was built between the years of the world 3320, and 3630. But waving this particular, which I (hall leave undetermined) it is certain, that it was firft iurrounded with a ram- part and ditch in the year of Chrift 1 1 50 ; and that in 1268, or 127C, it obtained the privileges of a city. As the bifhops of this fee were in poffef- iron of Rofchild, it increafed to fuch an extent, as to contain 27 large churches and convents within its walls. Some of the churches of the neigh- bouring villages were formerly included within its circuit, and the ftreets extended quite to the fea fhore. The kings of Denmark were formerly elected and crowned in this city, and alfo made it the place of their refi- dence. The great decay into which this city afterwards fell was partly owing to frequent fires, partly to the intolerable tyranny of the bifhops who refided here, and partly to the flourifhing ftate of Copenhagen, which is but four geographical miles from it. Laftly, the Reformation muft have been, in a great mealure, the caufe of it ; for in confequence of the change in Religion, the monks and clergy, who fpent their large revenues in this place, were obliged to quit the country. Roe/kild confifts, at preient, only of an inconfiderable number of houfes, which, for the moftpart, are meanly built' 5 and the inhabitants fupport themfelves by trade and induftry ; but their chief employment is agriculture and the planting of tobacco. There are two remarkable fprings at Roejki/d, viz. the Roe's-well at the end of O.'ufs- fireeti and the Holy-erofs-fpring, at the extremity of the town, from which water is carried every week to Copenhagen for the ufe of the Court; it being reckoned very wholefome and pleafant to drink. The cathedral church, if there were no other, is a {landing monument of the ancient prandeur of this town. It is inferred from a monumental in- fcription in memory of king HaraldBloatand which is to be feen in the choir, that this church was built with timber by that monarch about the year 980 ; but that the foundation of a large ftone edifice being afterwards laid, it was Jinifhed about the year 1084, and was dedicated to St. Lucius, and after that to the holy Trinity. This church was thrice confumed by fire, namely,- in 1282, 1443, and 1525; but was not built in fo magnificent a manner after thefe accidents, as it had been before. However, it is füll a veryhandfome light church, and is partly covered with copper, and partly h lead. In 1635 it was adorned with two high towers by Chriflian IV. Its greateft ornaments are the burying place and monuments of the kings of rk. In the church are to be feen the fuperb marble monuments of ' iftian V. and Frederick IV. inclofed inafquare area; and in a vault un- der them the remains of the children belonging to the royal family are in- terred. From hence you come to the monument of the famous Queen Margaret) who pre fen ted this church formerly with a fine altar, on which flood Seeland.] DENMARK. 103 flood the images of the twelve Apoftles, each as hig as a child of three bears old, of mafiy gold ; which king Erick of Pomerarda carried away with him when he left Denmark. This monument ftands behind a rich altar, which reprefents the hiftory of our Saviour in Baßo relievo finely gilded. It was brought hither in the time of Chrißian IV. from Frede* sburg, and is opened only on certain days every year, and m time o! divine icrvice ; but is fhewn to Grangers at other times. To the right is a vault divided into three parts, in which Chrißian IV. Frederick III. their queens, and feveral of their children are interred. Over this vault is a chapel, in which the bodies of the kings and queens of Denmark are depofited till they are buried * j and at pre lent the bodies of ' ChrißianW. and Lcuifa the late queen, confort of Frederick V. lie in magnificent maufoleums. Here is tobe feen a capital piece of painting reprcfenting Frederick III. lying on a bed of ftate. Oppofite to this, on the left fide of the church, is the cha- pel of the three wife Men, or Magi, which Chrißianl. caufid to be built in 1464. Here the fuperb marble monuments of Chrißian III. and Frederick II. are erected ; but the remains of thefe two monarchs and their queens, and, as is fuppofed, thofeof Chrißian I. Chrijhphcr of Bavaria, &c. lie in the vault under the monument. Near this chapel is that of St. Law:, in which a curious font, with feveral old pictures, &c. are to be {een. There are in this church a great number of epitaphs of perfons famous for their dignity, or learning. Of the latter Saxo Grammaticas, and Nie: Hem- ming lie buried here. A royal Palace, which is not very large, was built here in 1733, out of the materials of the old palace, which had been pulled down. It has a communication with the church by means of a covered palTage. On the other fide of the church ftands an edifice in which, at prefent, the Provofts, belonging to the See of Seelnnd, meet twice a year under the Biihop and general Governor of the Province. Not far from this building is the Regency, in which the Con-Redtor, and 20 ftudents are maintained gratis. In the Cathedral fchopl fix mafters and forty fcholars are maintained and educated : this is the bell endowed of any fchcol in Seeland. Here is alio an hofpital for fix poor widows, with an alms-houfe, which, in 1570, was richly endowed by Frederick II. who joined three others to it for that purpofe. In 1699 Margaret Uhlefeld, and Bridget Scheel founded a convent in this town for one and twenty ladies of quality and a Priorefs. Each of thefe ladies has a yearly penfion of 80 Rixdoll'ars, befides- an apartment, board, &c. Chrißian V. alio endowed this convent with 500 Rixdollars, ariiing from a mine in Norway and the tithes of two pariihes. The other church, which ftands at one end of the town, is dedicated to the virgin Mary. Money was formerly coined in this church, and a vaft. num- * This cuftom is alfo obferved in France •> where Lewis XIV. fiill lies unburied at St. V. - till his iucceilbr dies. j ber I0+ DENMARK. [Seeland. ber of reliques were kept here in popifh times. About the middle öf the 1 2th century a fraternity was infiituted here which was partly ecclefiaflical-, and partly a military order. The members of it were called Militcs, or Fratres Rojchildenjes, who, afterwards, fpread themfelves all over Seeland. They defended the fea-coafl againft the infults of the idolatrous Vandals. In 1012 this place was erected into a bifhop's-fee ; in 1291 a great fynod was held, and in 1658 the famous peace of Rofehild was concluded, in this city. Lethraborg is a confiderable caflle belonging to Count Jchn Lewis Hol- ftcin, at the diftance of a geographical mile from Rofehild. Here are ftill to he feen fome remains of the ancient Lethra or Leyre, which was origi- nally a royal palace; but afterwards Rolfo Krokus built a fine city on the fpot, where the ancient Daniß kings refided ; hence they were called Reges Le- thra-. Here is alfo a large ftone, not unlike a chair; and, as the kings ufed to receive homage in this feat, it was called Kongfiolen, i. e. the king's chair. In the dark ages of Heathenifm 99 men, and as many horfes, dogs, and cocks were (lain and offered here to the gods once in nine years, in the month January, and it was looked upon as the moftfacred place in See/and. IM. J. P. Ancherjen, in his learned treatife, entitled Hertbedal ved Leyre i Siaeland, thinks it very probable, that the famous Hertbedal, where the goddefs Hertha was worshipped, flood on this fpot. Kioge, in Latin Coagia, is a fmall town fituated in a fertile country, at the mouth of the little river Kcogaae, on the Baltic. It is ftill in a pretty flourifhing condition, and carries on fome trade in the Baltic; but was for- merly a confiderable trading city. In the market-place, which is a hand- fome large area, ftands the council houfe, a well built edifice. Here are alfo an elegant church, a grammar fchool, and a good hofpital, or alms-houfe, which, before the year 153 1, was a monaftery of Gray Friars. The fine tapeihy with which the palace of ' Fridericksburg is hung, was made in this town. In 1633 Kioge was greatly damaged by a great fire. In 1659 Charles Gußavus, king of Sweden, fortified it with ditches and ramparts. In 1677 the Daniß admiral Niels Juel defeated the Swediß fleet in the bay of Kioge. In this diftricT: lies alfo the County of Brcgentveck, which belongs to the Count of Möhre. VII. The Prefecture of Holbeck confiils, 1. OftheHerredofTutze, which includes 13 Churches. 2. The Herred of Mehrlofi, containing 20 Churches* This Prefecture derives its name from the little town of Ho/beck, which lies in a fertile foil on an arm of the Ijefiord gulf, and has a good harbour, from which a great quantity of corn is exported every year. In 1290, this town was plundered and deftroyed by the Norwegian fleet. In 13 17, Birger, the exiled king of Sweden, took refuge here ; and Erick, his brother-in-law, put him in poffefiion of the town of Holbeck for life. VIII: Seeland.] DENMARK. I05 VIII. The Prefecture of Draxholm confifts only of the fingle Herred or diftridt of Odd, including nine churches, and is a fertile peninlula. In this Prefecture lie the following places of note. Nyekiobing is a middling town ; but was formerly a confiderable city, and ftill enjoys the privileges of one, with the advantages of navigation and a good harbour. Draxholm is an old caftle, to which a confiderable eftate belongs. It was formerly a fief of the Crown, and a place of confiderable ftrength, in which feveral ftate-prifoners were confined ; in particular the wicked Earl of Both- well, hufband of the unfortunate Mary Queen of Scotland. He did penance for his attrocious crimes from the year 1576 by a long confinement in this cattle. IX. The Prefecture of Kallundborg confifts, 1. Of the Herred of Artz including 9 churches. 2. The Herred of Schipping containing 11 churches. This Prefecture derives its name from the city of Kallundborg, in Latin Callutida, one of the mod flourishing towns in Seeland. It has the beft har- bour on the illand except Copenhagen. The inhabitants carry on a confider- able trade, and a great quantity of malt is annually exported from hence. St. Mary's Church, which has four high fpires, makes a good appear- ance. From this town the paffage to Aarhuus in 'Jutland is ufually per- formed in 12 hours: for which purpofe a certain number of fmacks fail twice a week from one town to the other. In the caftle, which was for- merly very ftrong but now fallen to decay, Chrl/lian II. died in his con- finement. Albert, king of Sweden, was alfo confined here ; but, in 1658, the Swedes, out of revenge, blew up the caftle. This town was built in the year 1 1 71 j and in 1249, and 13 14, ecclefiaftical fynods were held here. In the territory belonging to this town lies alio the caftle of Oefirup, which at prefent belongs to Count Lerch of Lerchenfeld. The ifland Samjoe, or Sams, in Latin Samfoa, lies about eight geogra- phical miles from Kallundborg, and four from Aarhuus in Jutland, over againft Funen, where the Great Belt is feparated from the Little Belt. This ifland, as to fpirituals, is fubject to the Bifhop of Aarhuus ; but in tem- porals it is under the Prefect of Kalhindborg, and therefore muft be de- fcribed here. It is three geographical miles long, and one broad : It has feveral hills and eminences, three of which are capes or promontories. The foil, for the mod part, is fertile, and in particular yields plenty of good peafe : hence moft of the Inhabitants are in good circumftances, and carry on a confiderable trade with their fmall craft. Samfoe confifts of five parifhes, namely, Bodzer, Onsberg, Kaalbye, Nordbye and Frand- berg. In the laft are ftill to be feen the ruins of the ancient caftle of Vol. I. P Bratingsborg io6 DENMARK. [Seeland. Bratingsborg, which ftood upon an eminence, and was encompafled with a treble rampart and ditch ; but in 1288 was razed to the ground. 'In the parifli of Kaalbye formerly ftood the caftle of Visborg. On the eaft fide of this ifland lie the fmall iflands Hiorthohn (which was formerly fortified with a caftle) Kiholm, Lindhohn, and Veyeroe. Theie form three har- bours, two of which, viz. Langoe and Gammelholm are fit to receive veffels of a middling fize only, but that of Veyeroe is a good harbour for large fliips. On this fide of the ifiand alfo is that dangerous place cailed the Bott- fack. On the weft fide lies the little ifland liunoe, which is moftly covered with wood. It confifts of one parifli, and was bequeathed in 1216 to the Cathedral church near Aarhuus. Laftiy, near the fouth end of SamfoeWts the Ifland Endelau or Endoe : Between Samfoe, Endoe and 'Thunoe there are feveral fandy fhoals. In Refenius\ Atlas, and likewife inhisdeicription of Samjoe, there is a map of this ifland. X. The Prefecture of Sabyegaard confifts of the fingle Herred of Loiüc, which contains 15 churches. XI. The Prefecture of Ringsted confifts of the Herred of the fame name, which includes 17 churches. At Harrefied, in this Prefecture, Duke Knut, who was called the Saint, was bafely murdered by his uncle king Magnus. This Prefecture derives its name from Ring/led, in Latin Ring/ladium, which was built by, and called after the name of Ring king of Denmark ; fo that next to Rojchild, it muft be the moll ancient town in Seeland. Ring/led lies in the middle of Seeland, and was anciently a large city ; but by feveral fires, efpecially in the years 1692, 1716, and 1747 it has been greatly reduced ; fo that at prefent it is but a fmall town, built fince the laft fire. The great church was ereded in 1475, and was famous for feveral popifh reliques. In it lie buried feveral kings, queens, &c. as Waldemar I. Waldemar II. Erick the Saint, Duke Knut the Saint, and other perfons of diftinctiftn. This church, like the convent in this town, has been called by different names, viz. St. Mary's, or the Virgin?, Church, St. Knut's the Martyr, and St. Benedict's. The faid con- vent was built towards the dole of the 1 ith century, and dedicated to the Virgin Alary. It was inhabited by Bencdicline monks, and afterwards called St. Knut's convent. The edifice, which is clofe to the church, being ftill entire, is fold to a private perfon, together with the eftatewith which it was endowed. Of St. John's church there is but little remaining befides the church yard. This town is ftill famous for the court of judicature, to which an appeal lies from all the courts of Seeland, except Copenhagen and fome other towns; whereas from this court there is no appeal but to the Supreme Court at Copenhagen. It is held once every month in one part of the church. XII. The Prefecture of Soroe contains the Herred of Alßcd, to which belong 16 churches. It derives its name from 5 Soroe, Seeland.] DENMARK. IC? Soroe, in Latin Sora, which is a noted little town fituated in a pleafant country. It is furrounded by three frefh-water lakes, called the lakes of Sor, Thuie, and Petersburg, and thefe again are almoft encompaffed with fine woods. This town is remarkable for the Royal Academy, which lies at the fouth-end of it, the hiftory of which is as follows : The fons of Skialmo' Hvide, in the 12th century, founded a monaftery in this place, in whicli the famous archbifhop Abjalon Hvide placed fome Cifiercian Monks in 1161. This convent was extremely rich ; but in 1580, after the Re- formation, it was diffolved, and the noble endowment annexed to it fell to the Crown, upon which the king placed his Prefects over it. Frederick II. in 1586, founded a fchool in this place, in which 30 children of perfons of Quality, and 30 other children born of reputable parents are educated and maintained gratis. After this Chrijiian IV. in 16 13, converted it into a public Academy, which he nobly endowed from the revenues of the ancient monaftery and thofe of a convent at Marieboe in Laaland, and im- proved and enlarged with elegant new buildings. The Academy flou- riihed for forty years, and was very much frequented by perfons of diftinc- tion, both Danes and foreigners. Charles Gußavus, afterwards king of Sweden, had ftudied here ; on which account he abftained from commit- ting any hoftilities againft this place in 1659. But as the number of the ftudents greatly decreafed, and the revenues of it were much exhausted by the war, the few that remained were, in 1665, removed to other places ; and fome of the profeffors were invited to Copenhagen, whilft others with- drew elfewhere. However, Frederick III. founded a fchool here for a cer- tain number of noblemen's and burgher's children, which was continued till the year 1734, when Chriflian VI. diffolved it quite, for fome time. But as he had formed the defign of renewing the former Academy for the Nobility, he caufed the prefent magnificent and elegant building to be erected for that purpofe. But this monarch dying foon after, Frederick V. completed the defign, and founded the Academy a fecond time. He alfo endowed it with a large revenue, which the famous baron Ho/berg confiderably encreafed, by bequeathing his whole eftate to it. To this Academy belong a Grand-Mafter, an Infpector, Profeffors in all the fciences which relate to civil or political employments, a Mafter of the French language, and a Riding-Mafter, with proper Mailers for fencing, dancing, and drawing. There is alfo a printing-prefs fet up in this Academy. The Academifts have their apartments in a large and commodious ftone building. The Grand-Mafter, as Prefect of the Prefecture of Soroe, has the fame authority in the town of Soroe as the General-Governors of pro- vinces have in the other towns. The Academy is under the jurifdiction of its own officers j and in all caufes the Grand-Mafter prefides as judge, af- fifted by the Infpector and Profeffors. This Academy alfo enjoys feveral P 2 other io8 DENMARK. [Seeland. other privileges, which may be feen in its ftatutes of the year 1 747. The great church is at prefent the only remains of the old monaftery, and in it lie buried feveral kings and princes, as Waldemar III. &c. with feveral perfons of diftindtion and learning. It ferves for the town and Academy- church, and the profeffor of Divinity is the preacher. In the lake of Soroe a large fifli is often taken, called in Danifh Malle, and in Latin Silur us, or muflela maxima. Some of this fpecies are above four ells in length ; but they are found no where elfe in Denmark. The Barony of Hotter g, which was the property of the famous and learned Baron of that name, who bequeathed it to the academy of Soroe, confifts of two eftates ; one of which, called Ter/lofe, lies in the Pre- fecture of Holbeck, and the other called Brorup, in the Prefecture of An- derfiow. XIII. The Prefecture of Korsoer, confifts of the Herred of Slagelfe, which includes 13 country churches. In this Prefecture are the following towns. Korfoer, in Latin Crucifora, a fmall town fituated on a point of land in the Great-Belt, oppofite the town of Nyeborg in Funen. The diftance be- tween thefe towns is about four geographical miles ; and this is the ufual paffage acrofs the Great-Belt. In 1 66 1 , this town obtained the ftaple- privilege, and carries on a confiderable trade bv fea. Its harbour is one of the beft in Seeland, being very commodious for fuch veffels as do not draw above nine feet water; but the buildings are mean and irregular. The parifh church is a very indifferent ftructure, and contains nothing re- markable but a good piece of painting, which was a prefent from the Uni- versity of Copenhagen, and reprefents the women bringing their young chil- dren to Chrift. On the fea-fliore, near the town, ftands an ancient royal palace, furrounded with a ditch and rampart ; in part of which the Com- mandant and fome other perfons have apartments, and the other part ferves for a granary, and commands the harbour. Slagelfe, in Latin Slaglofia, is a pretty large and populous town ; but, for the moft part, confifts of mean houfes. It was built by the ancient hero Slag or Slav, one of the anceftors of Bifhop Abfalon, about the clofe of the 10th century, and originally belonged to his family, but afterwards fell to the crown. Here are two parifh churches, a well endowed hof- pital which has a chapel, and a grammar-fchool in which twenty fcholars are maintained and educated. The inhabitants apply themfelves chiefly to planting tobacco, and agriculture, for the territory belonging to the town is very extenfive ; as for trade there is but little ftirring here. Slagelfe was greatly damaged by fire in 1652 and 1740. Many ftrange miracles are re- lated, which the pretended holy monk Andrew, who died here in 1203, is faid to have wrought. Andwort- Seeland.] DENMARK. 109 Andioortßoiv, or Anderfkow, a large royal palace, ftands on an eminence at a fmall diftance to the eaft of Slagelß. It was formerly a very grand mo- naftery belonging to the monks of the order of St. John, and erected by WaldemarW. in 1220 ; but after the Reformation, it was converted into a palace. Here Frederick II. who was very fond of this place, out of his ex- traordinary zeal threw the Concordat into the fire, in 1580. He alfo con- fiderably enlarged and embellifhed this palace, where he ended his days ; and Frederick IV. in 1 720, repaired the church belonging to it. At this day, however, it makes no extraordinary appearance. In 1546, a national fynod was held here by all the Bifhops of Denmark. XIV. The Prefecture of Andersicow contains the Herreds of Weß and Eaß Flackeberg\ the former including 18, and the latter 13 country churches. Places of note in this Prefecture are, Skielßior, or Skiel/ißor, which is a fmall town, but better built than Korfoer. It carries on a middling trade by fea. Near the parifh-church there was formerly a convent of Carmelites, which was founded in 141 8. There is a profitable fifhery hereabouts, particularly of eels. The County of Holßeinburg, with a caflle of the fame name, which be- longs to the Counts of Hol/lein. Herliifsholm , which is a free-fchool lituated at the diftance of a quarter of a geographical mile from Ne/hved. The firft inhabitants of this place were tome Beneditline monks, who, in 1261, deferted their convent near St. Peter's church at Neflwed, that had been burnt, and removed to a neighbouring wood, which they called Skov-klojler, i. c. the convent in the wood. This monaftery was richly endowed ; but at the time of the Reformation, the revenues of it were confifcated, and an Amt-man or Prefect fet over the place in the king's name. But after the famous admiral Herlaf 'Trolle gave Hillcrod/7:olm (the place where Frederick/burg now ftands) to Fre- derick II. in exchange for this convent in the wood ; he founded the pre- fent free-fchool in 1 564, and endowed it with the whole eftate, which brings in yearly about 3000 Rix-dollars. He likewife called the place Herliifsholm, after his own name, and ordered that a fuper-infpector and fuper-adminiftrator, for the management of the fchool and the endow- ment annexed to it, mould be elected alternately from the Trolles, his own family, and the Goefes, his wife's family. After his death, which happened in 1665, his widow was no lefs indefatigable in carrying on the building than the admiral had been ; but it was not quite completed till after her deceafe. At prefent, twenty youths are inftructed and provided with all neceffaries on this foundation. The old monaftery is ftill the principal building belonging to the fchool. It is lituated in a charming pleafant coun- try ; and is watered by the river which runs through Ne/liaed, and fur- rounded with a wood. In the fmall, but elegant church belonging to this place are fome valuable monuments of many famous men ; among which , I0 DENMARK. [Seeland. which we {hall only take notice of thofe of the founder of the ichool, and the Daniß Hiftorian Arild Hvitfeld. XV. The Prefecture of Wordingborg confifts, 1. Of the Herred of ' Tyberg including 14 churches. 2. The Herred of Hammer containing 11 churches. %. The Herred of Baarfe, which has 13 churches. From the village of Kallehauge, is the ufual pafTage to the illand of Mom. Within this Pre- fecture are the following places. Neßived is a pretty large town but meanly built, fituated on the river Nes, in a pleafant and fertile fpot. This river divides the town into two unequal parts, which are called Great and Little Neflwed, and then runs into the Baltic : This gives the inhabitants an opportunity of carrying on ibme little trade. Here are two parifh churches, namely, St. Peter's and St. Martins. In the former, among the remains of the popifh fuperfti- tion, an image of the royal Saint Knut, curioufly cut in wood and finely gilded, and a crucifix which is well executed are to be feen. There were formerly feveral convents in this town ; and there is a piece of money füll extant, which was coined here. In the year 1259, a bloody and decifive battle was fought near Nejhvcd ; and in 1271, the town was much da- maged by fire. Wordingborg, in Latin Orthunga, is a fmall town fituated on the moft fouthern point of Seeland on a bay called the Gronfund. This place is looked upon as the moft delightful and pleafant fpot in the whole ifland. This town has a gram mar- Ichool ; and the inhabitants live partly by agriculture, and partly by ufing the lea. As for the ancient caftle that flood near it, which Waldemar I. built in 1066, and intended for a place of great ftrength j nothing but the ruinous remains of it are now to be feen. Waldemar III. who was exceedingly fond of this place, refided here for the moft part, and, in derifion of the Hanfe-toums, built the well known tower, which, from a golden goofe erected on the top of it, he called gans, i. e. the Goofe. In this tower he purpofed to confine the prifoners of the Hanfe-toivns that fhould fall into his hands in the war he intended to carry on againft them. As the old caftle gradually fell to decay, Prince George, who was brother to Chri/iian V. and married to Anne Queen of England, built here an en- tire new caftle, which Frederick IV. afterwards enlarged; but that edifice, not long fince, was pulled down. The ufual pafiage to the iflands Falßer and Loiland is from this place. In 1240, at a famous Diet held here, the old Jutijche Low-buck, or Codex legum Juticarum was compiled and pro- mulgcd : This body of laws is ftill in force in South- Jut land. In 1256, another Diet was held, and in 1658 preliminaries for a peace between Denmark and Sweden were treated of in this town. Frafioe, in Latin Preßyteronefus, is a middling town, and has a commodious harbour, from which a good deal of corn is exported. Formerly a convent of Seeland.] DENMARK. in of the Fratrcs Calendarii, and another monaftery flood here. In 1750 this town was deftroyed by fire. Gijfelfcld is a considerable eflate, which Count Guldenloive bequeathed to a convent of nuns, one half of the number to be the daughters of perfons of Quality, and the other half the daughters of citizens. XVI. The Prefecture of Tryggevelde confifts, 1. Of the Herred of BieJ'verskoiv, which includes 12 churches. In the village of Her/ogle Queen Anna Sophia founded a hofpital for the mainte- nance of twenty old men, and the instruction often children who are here taught by a mafter. 2. The Herred of Faxoe, which contains 11 churches, exclulive of that at Wemmeltofie. 3. The Herred of Steven, which is a peninfula, and has 10 churches. Places of note in this Prefecture are the following. The County of Walloe, with a large and royal palace of the fame name, lies near the little town oiKioge. The cattle was at fir ft built by the famous Peter Oxe and his confort Mette Rofenkranz in the year 1575 s But it was afterwards considerably enlarged ; and Frederick IV. particularly, made great additions to it, when the caftle together with the County fell to the Crown. Chriflian VI. made a prcfent of both to his confort, queen Sophia Magda- lena, who inftituted a religious Foundation here for women of noble fami- lies, and endowed it with the whole revenue of the County and the eftates annexed to it. She alio provided apartments for them in one of the four fides of the building. The confecration of the new convent was performed with great folemnity in 173H, and the princefs Frederica of Wurtenbci g~ Neußadt was appointed the firft Abbefs of it. Wemmeltofie is a very ancient feat, which formerly belonged to prince Charles, brother to Frederick IV. and his filter Sophia Hedeivig : that prince generally refided, and at laft ended his days in this feat. Both the prince and princefs laid out vaft fums in embellilhing this palace, which is plea- fantly lituated, and bequeathed it by will, together with all the eftate be- longing to it, for a convent for ladies of Quality ; which was founded in 1 73 5. This Foundation has two Curators and two Preachers, one of which is a Dane and the other a German. Every Lady of this community is obliged to maintain and educate one orphan. This convent lies in the Herred of Faxoe. Store-Heddinge, i. e. Great Hedding, or fimply Heading, is a very ancient but mean town. There are feveral good lime-kilns in the territory belong- ing to this town : It lies in the Herred of Steven. Tryggcvelde, in Latin Tuta va/'lis, is an ancient famous caftle, near which, on an eminence, a pyramidal ftone with a Runic infeription was formerly to be feen ; but it ftands now in Walloe at one end of the bridge. The ri2 DENMARK. [Seeland. The high and rocky promontory called Stevens Klint, which may be ken at a great diftance, is remarkable, as well as the adjacent parts, for good ftone-quarries. XVII. The ifland of Moen, Mona, or Virginia Danica, lies diredly over againft the little town of Prafloe ; and between the latter and the ifland are the ftraits called the Wolfjund. This ifland is four geographical miles in length from eaft to weft, and two in breadth. The high chalky cliffs to- wards the Baltic may be feen a great way off* at fea. One of them at a diftance refembles a throne, and is therefore commonly called the King's Chair. Stones of an uncommon figure or fhape are no where in greater plenty than on this coaft. The foil is fertile in every part of the ifland, and yields great quantities of peafe. It confifts of one Jlmt or Prefecture, and one Herred, and contains feven rural parifhes and the little town of Stege. The latter lies in the middle of the ifland, and was formerly a place of ftrength j for, in 1510, it fuccefsfully maintained a flege againft the Lü- beckers. It had alfo a fine caftle called Elmehmd, which the burghers in their fury demolifhed in the year 1534- Some years fince, a free Marine Academy, or fchool for teaching navigation, was founded here by Chrif- tian V. but this foundation afterwards fell to decay. In Refenius's Atlas there is a map of this ifland. Between Moen and Falfler lies the little ifland of Boog or Bcgoe. XVIII. The ifland of Bornholm, Bomhohnia, or Boringia, lies in the Baltic, about 16 geographical miles from the extreme point of Seeland, and 6 from Yßad in Schonen. It extends from North-North-Weft to South- South-Eaft, about feven geographical miles in length, and is four in breadth. The foil is fertile and produces all kinds of grain, particularly oats. Here is alfo good pafturage or meadow-land ; and a great quantity of butter is ex- ported from this ifland. It likewife affords good lime-ftone, marble quar- ries, and pit coals ; and cement is alfo made in Bornholm. The coaft, on account of many dangerous rocks or fhoals, is inacceffible almoft on every fide : But in thofe places where there might be any danger of an enemy's landing, great guns are planted. Perfons of quality, and other criminals, are ufually banifhed to this ifland by way of punifhment ; and this was the fate of the infamous Dippel. In popifh times this ifland belonged to the Archbifhop of Lund in Schonen ; and feveral difputes have from time to time arifen about it. In 1522 the Lübeckers made themfelves mafters of it, in whofe hands it continued a long time. At the peace of Rojchild'it was ceded to the Swedes : But the inhabitants being treated with great feverity by their new mafters, took up arms in the fame year ( 1658) j and recovering their liberty under the conduct: of Jens Koejod, they delivered up the ifland to the king of Denmark. By this means they greatly ingratiated themfelves with his Danijh Majefty, who fent them a letter of thanks ; and in a fecond letter he Seeland,] DENMARK. i, 3 he gracioufly promifed to take them under his immediate protection, which engagement the fucceeding kings have ever fince confirmed from time to time. Since that time Bomholm has been an hereditary Country belonging to the kings of Denmark. In 1678, 5000 of the Swedijh troops, in their pafTage from Pomerania to Sweden, were ftranded on this ifiand ; and thofe that eicaped the fury of the waves were made prifoners of war tho' they were provided with Danifl> paffes. The inhabitants keep up their own Militia, for the defence of the ifiand ; fo that the king of : Denmark is at no expence on that account. There is a Governor, Deputy Governor, Amtman or Prefect, and other officers, in this ifiand ; it confifts of one Pre- fecture which contains about 100 villages. 16 rural churches, and the fol- lowing places of note. Ronne, or Ron de, is a little town on the fouth-weft fide of the ifiand. Here the king's Governor or Commandant generally refides ; there is alfo a grammar febool in this town. The harbour is well fortified and fheltered from certain winds ; but it is not very deep. Haßc, Svannike, and Nexoe are little towns on the fea-coafr. which have harbours for fmall vefieis. Aakirke lies in the middle of the ifiand, and has the privileges of a city. Here the provincial court and the fynod are held. Hammerbuus is an old ruinous caftle fituated on the north angle of the ifiand, and was formerly a ftrong fortrefs. There is a map of this ifiand in Refenins's Atlas. Two geographical miles to theEaft of Bornhohn flands a little fort known by the name of Cbrißianjoe. It is built on five rugged rocks called Er- tholmen, between which Chips may liecommodioufly at anchor in the middle of the fea. There are a few other inhabitants on thefe rocks befides the garrifon. Chriftian V. erected this fort in the year 1684, and had a medal llruck on the occafion. Vol. I. Q^ Tie ir 4 DENMARK. [Funen. The Diocese, or General Government of FUNEN. f ~T y HIS Diocefe is the fecond in order, and includes Funen, Langeland, ■*• Laaland, Falßer, and other fmaller iflands. It has two Governors; and under one of thefe are Funen and Langeland ; and Laaland and Falßer are fubjedl to the ether. The illand of Funen, in Danifh Fyen, in Latin Fionia, lies between the Great and Little Felt. It is ten geographical miles in length from Bogen- Jee to Swenborg, and nine in breadth from Aßens to Nyborg. Its name de- notes a fine country, and indeed the whole illand is fertile and very pleafant. On this account mofr, of the noble families of the kingdom have for many years refided here; fo that it is not eafy to find in any other country of an equal extent fo many noblemen's feats as there are in this ifland. The foil yields fuch plentiful crops of all forts of grain, that the inhabitants may annually export above 100,000 barrels of rye, barley, oats and peafe to Norway and Sweden, exclufive of their home confumption. It alfo produces a vafr. quantity of buck-wheat ; and this fort of grain is chiefly cultivated by the inhabitants. They employ a great deal of time and care in breeding bees, and make a great quantity of fine mead or hydromel, which is exported to all parts of the kingdom. The apples that grow in Funen are alio greatly admired ; and it produces plenty of efculent herbs, and hops. In order to prevent too great a confumption of wood, the inhabitants ufe turf moftly for fuel. In the di- ftric~t of A/fens there are two mountains of a confiderable height, namely, the Faußenberg and the Ochfenberg ; and near Middelfahrt there is alfo ano- ther hill. Here are feveral frefh-water lakes, and rivers abounding with fifh ; but none of them are navigable. In the bays, and all along the coaft, a great quantity of fea fifh, particularly cod, herring, eel, turbot, &c. are taken. The whole ifland is divided into five Amts or Prefectures, which are as follows : I. The Prefecture of Nvborg, which confifls, 1. Of the Herred, or diftricl:, of Bierg, in which 12 rural churches are included, with 10 noblemen's feats, and the Barony of Scheelßorg, formerly called EJkieldßorg, which belongs to Baron Brockdorf. 2. The Herred of Winding, which includes 16 rural churches, 10 no- blemen's feats, and the Barony of Holkenbavn, with a noble caftle which belongs to Baron Hoik. 3. The Funen.] DENMARK. u 5 3. The Herred of Aafnm, in which are 11 rural churches, and 5 noble- men's feats. 4. The Herred of Gudme, which contains 13 rural churches, and as many noblemen's feats. 5. The Herred of Sailing, in which are 24 rural churches, 20 noble- men's feats, and the Barony of Brahe-Trolleborg, which belongs to the Counts of Reventlau. It was formerly a monaftery belonging to the Cißer- cian order, and called Holmekloßer, or Holme in Funen, in Latin Injula Dei ; but Henry Ranzau purchafed it of Frederick II. for 55,000 Rix- dollars in 1561, and called it Ranzauholm after his own name. It was afterwards in the poflellion of the unfortunate Key Lykkes, and confifcated to the crown in 1661, in the reign of Frederick III. who granted it to Manderup Brake and Birgitte Trolle his wife } hence it derives its prefent name, Brahe-Trolleborg. 6. The Herred of Sund, in which are 18 rural churches and 13 noble- men's feats. In the village of St. Jürgen there is an hofpital for 30 poor perfons, which was formerly a rich convent. The pleafant and fertile ifland of Taa/ing lies over-againft the town of Swenborg ; it is two geographical miles long and one broad, and has three churches and feveral good vil- lages. On the fouth-eaft end of the ifland, Chrißian IV. in 1629, built the caftle of Waldemarsburg on a delightful fpot; but, in i6jj,ChriJlianV. gave the whole ifland to the admiral Niels Juel, whofe defcendants are ftill in pofleffion of it. Within this Prefecture are the following towns. Nyborg, in Latin Neoburgum, is a ftrong town on the Great-Belt. It is not, indeed, very large j but has a commodious fituation, and is well built. The pari Hi-church, and the council-houfe are the beft in the ifland. There is a grammar-fchool at Nyborg, and a harbour, which, indeed, is large, but neither deep enough, nor fheltered from fome winds. The in- habitants fubfift partly by accommodating the paflengers who daily crois over from hence to Korfor in Seeland (which is a paffage of four geogra- phical miles) or return hither from thence ; and partly by commerce. The fhips, that pafs through the Great-Belt are obliged to pay toll here; for which purpofe a man of war is always ftationed in the Belt. All that remains of the ancient royal palace, where Chrißian II. was born in 1481, and, when an infant, carried up to the top of it by a monkey and brought down again without receiving any hurt, is only a large wing with a flat tower a little higher than the roof. It ferves, at prefent, for a magazine and arfenal. This city was firft built in 1175, and in the 13th and 14th centuries moft of the affemblies of the ftates and courts of judicature, particularly the remarkable Diet in 1256, were held here. In 1659, the Swedes were totally defeated almoft under the guns of its caftle. Vitfiyld, Vidskiol, or Vitskol, with a church which furpafled moft churches in the North in magnificence, but at prefent is all in ruins. When this convent was diflblved, Frederick II. exchanged it in 1573 with its re- 5 venue6 Wiborg.] DENMARK. 12C) venues for St emit, with Biorn Anderjen, a privy-counfellor, who gave it the name of Biornjholm. Hellum-Herred, which contains fourteen churches or parifhes. Aars-HerreJ, which includes fourteen churches. And, laftly, Hinfled-Herred, confifting of fourteen churches or parifhes. The Diocese, or General Government of JV I B O R G. r T^ HIS Diocefe is bounded to the North by the Gulf called Lymfart, by •*■ the Cattegat to the Eaft, by the Diocefes of Aarhuus and Ripen to the South, and by the latter alfo to the Weft. It is ten geographical miles in length, twelve in breadth, and, on account of its great loffes, is reckoned the leaft of the four Diocefes into which North Jutland is divided. It for- merly confifted of three Syjjels, namely, i. Himmer-Syjfel -, whofe fix Hcrreds have been fpoken of in the Diocefe of Aalborg. 2. Ommer-Syjfel, which contained the Herreds of Stefring, Oden/ild, Hald, and Geh ; and likewife thofe of Rind, Norlyng, Middelfom and Fiend, with the towns of Wiborg, Randers, Mariager, and Hobroe. 3. Salling-SyJJel, which included four Herreds, and the town of Skive. But at prefent only half of Ommer-Syjj'el and Salling-Syffell belong to the Diocefe of Wiborg. Its weftern lide, for the mod part, coniifts of barren waftes ; but the northern parts, elpecially SaUing-Syjfel or the Prefecture of Skivebuus, are very fertile, and famous for breeding horfes. The Herred of Rind is remarkable for the fine rye it produces. Wiborg was erected into a bifhop's See in 1065, by Sveno Ii. and the name of the firft bifhop of it was Heribert. This Diocefe is divided into two Prefectures and contains forty-feven fine manors. I. The Prefecture of Hald, fo called form an ancient caftle built on a lake, which formerly belonged to the popifh * bifhops of Wiborg, who alio made it their Ajylu/n. The two Herreds of the ifle of Mors in the Diocefe of Aalborg belong to this Prefecture, and likewife the following Herreds, viz. Norling with twelve churches ; Middelfom with fix teen churches ; * It is furprifing that the author and flveral other protcflant writers ufe the words Catbaiie and Popißi as fyhoninious terms. Though the former is generally ufed by the author, I have ren lered it by the latter ; or retrained the fenfe by add'ng Roman to it. Vol. I. S Sondes- i 3 o DENMARK. [Wiborg. Sondezlyng with fourteen churches; Rind with eighteen, and the Herred of Fiend with eighteen churches. II. The Prefecture of Skivehuus, which is the other part of the Di- ftricl: or Syjfel of Sailing, is five geographical miles in length, and three in breadth. It is a peninfula, furrounded on three fides by the Gulf of Lym- jurt, and contains, i. The Herred of Harre, which includes ten churches. 2. The North-Hrred with nine churches. 3. The Herred of Rodding with the like number. 4. The Herred of Hinborg with eight churches. In this Diocefe are the following places of note. Wiburg or Viborg, in Latin Viburgum, is the capital of this Diocefe and of all North Jutland. It ftands, almoft in the centre of the latter, on the lake of A/mild, which abounds with fifh. It is one of the moft ancient cities in the whole kingdom, if not prior to all the reft. It was formerly fo large and opulent, that before the Reformation it contained twelve churches and fix convents. Its circuit at prefent is near half a geographical mile, and includes three parifh-churches, three market-places, fix gates, and twenty- eight ftreets and lanes. Viborg is ftill the refidence of a General-Governor, and a Bifhop's See. The cathedral was founded in 11 69, and the Augufiine college contiguous to it was built at the fame time. It was vifited with great devotion, on account of the body of St. Kield or Kettil who was formerly Bifhop of this See, and a great number of other reliques. Behind the altar, in a leaden coffin, lies king Erick Clipping, who was murdered in the year 12S6. This church was burnt down in 1726; but proper meafures were immediately taken for rebuilding it. Clofe to the Gray-Friars church, which is alio newly rebuilt, ftands the hofpital. The epifcopal or cathe- dral fchool which was founded here a little before the Reformation by George Friis, the laft popifh bifhop of this See, has fix mailers with hand- fome falaries, and a roval foundation for poor fcholars. Here is alfo a ftately edifice where the provincial Court is held monthly for all North- Jutland. As Viborg was the place where the States of Jutland formerly uied to hold their Diets and other folemn affemblies, it was more fre- quented and richer than it is at prefent : However, the monthly provin- cial Courts, and the great Eaßer-Snapfling or Fair, which begins on the 26th of April and lafts a fortnight, are no fmall advantages to this city. The territory belonging to it is two geographical miles in circumference. Here the ancient kings of Denmark received the homage of the States ;. and in 948, a Diet was convened at Viborg by king Harald Blaatand. Pcpo laid hold of that opportunity to preach the Gofpel of Chrift, and his endeavours were crowned with uncommon fuccefs. In this city the States paid homage to Chriflian II. in the year 1523 ; and, in 1528, here was be- gun the Reformation in Denmark. In the year 1606, this city was en- tirely deftroyed by fire, and in 1726 the beft and largeft part of it was burnt Aarhuus.] DENMARK. I3 r burnt a fecond time ; but the damages it then fuftained were foon re- paired. Afmind, or rather A/mild, a celebrated Augufline convent, ftands on the other fide of the lake, directly oppofite to Viborg. It was founded in 1 1 64; but is now converted into a royal Fief. In the neighbourhood of this place are two remarkable values known by the names of Little and Great Nordmand-Dal, the place of rendezvous of the warlike Normans, when they emigrated to Germany and France in the ninth century. Skive, in Latin Schiva or Schevia, is a very old, fmall, and ill built town, in the Herred of Hinborg and diftridt of Sailing. It carries on a pretty good trade in horfes, horned cattle, and corn, by means of the gulf of Lyinfurt, and the rivers which run into it. The old royal palace of Skivehuus, which at prefent belongs to a noble family, (lands on the river that waters this town. Skive fuffered extremely by fire in 171 5 and 1725. Lejjbe is an ifland in the Cattegat. Though it is but three geographical miles from Sabye in the Diocefe of Aalborg, yet it belongs to the Diocefe of Viborg, and is a part of Norlyng Herred in the Prefecture of Hald. It is a pretty fertile fpot, three geographical miles in length and one in breadth. There are three churches on this ifland ; and the greaterr. part of its reve- nues goes to the Chapter of Viborg. At a little diftance from Lejfoe lies the dangerous rock called Niding, which is much frequented by the fiiher- men. The Diocese, or General Government of AAR H U U S. ^p HIS borders on the Diocefe of Viborg near the gulf of Manager, ** and extends itfelf along the Cattegat about fifteen geographical miles in length, and from eight to nine miles in breadth. This Diocefe is pre- ferable to any other in Jutland, and the extraordinary fertility of its foil enables the inhabitants to export very large quantities of grain every year. It is divcrfiried with a great many woods, commodious bays, and lakes abound- ing with fifh. It is alio watered with feveral brooks and rivers, among which the Guden is the principal ; and the manors of note in this Diocefe are about feventy in number. The See of Aaarhuus is not fo ancient as thofe of Slefwick and Ripen ; for it was not founded till the year 948, or 950. S 2 The I 3 2 DENMARK. [Aarhuus. The name of the firft bifliop was Rimbrand, Rembrtmd, or Regimbratid ; but this See being fuppreffed during the perfecution of the Chriftians in 980, the diftrict belonging to it was annexed to the Diocefe of Ripen till the year 1065, when the See of Aarhuus was reftored by Sveno II. This Diocefe or General Government confifts of the following Prefectures and Herreds. I. The Prefecture of Mariager, which contains 1. The Her red of On- fild with nine churches. 2. The Herred of Gißwn with twelve churches; but the latter is in the Diocefe of Viborg, to which, indeed, formerly the whole Prefecture belonged. II. The Prefecture of Silkeborg takes its name from the famous caftle of Silkeburg, which was formerly a place of great ftrength. It comprifes the Herreds of Giern with thirteen churches ; Hid with eight ; and Lyf- gaard with fourteen churches, among which that at Karup was frequented by a great number of pilgrims in the popifh times ; and the Herred of Wrad including ten churches or parifhes. III. The Prefecture of Aakiar confifts only of one Herred, viz. Had, which contains fixteen parifhes, among which are the iflands of Alroe and Endelave, in the bay of Horfens. IV. The Prefecture of Dronningborg contains, 1. The Herred of Rougfad, with five churches. 2. The Herred of St offring containing eight churches, and Stoff'ringgaard a convent for ladies of noble families. 3. The Herred of Houlberg with twelve churches. 4. The Herred of Galthen with a like number. 5. The Herred of Gierlev with ten. And 6. The Herred of North-Hald with twelve churches, among which that at Glenflrup is the moft remarkable ; becaufe a BenediBine convent called Norre-Klojfter, which was one of the moft ancient in Denmark, formerly ftood on the fame fpot. V. The Prefecture of Kalloe, fo called from an old caftle now con- verted into an hofpital, contains the Herreds of Ea/1-Lißerg with twelve churches ; Mols with eight churches ; Seuth-Herred with fourteen churches; North- Herred with fixteen, and South- Hald- Herred with twenty-five churches, among which that at Effenbeck is the moft ancient church in the country that we have any certain account of; for it was built, together with a convent adjoining to it, in the year 1040. VI. The Prefecture of Hauerballegaard including three Herreds, namely, that of Hq/Ie with nine churches ; Ning with twelve; and Weß- Lifierg containing fix churches. VII. The Prefecture of Scanderborg. The Herreds in this Prefecture are, I. 'Thyr fling or Torfling Herred, containing nine churches. 2. Sabroe Herred with eight churches. 3. The Herred of Woer with fourteen churches. 4. That of Wahre, remarkable for being the burial-place of the unfortunate Peter Schumacher Count Greifenfeld, who was fecretary of State. Aarhuus.] DENMARK. 133 State. 5. The Herred of Hklmflef including eleven churches. 6. The Herred of Framlefi 'containing twelve churches. VIII. The Prefecture of S tiernholm con lifts of the Herreds of Bierge with ieventeen churches; Hatting with nine churches; and that of iV/Ym containing five churches and the village of Häuflad, where Dorothea Tonboe a charitable lady founded an hofpital for twenty-four difabled pcrfons, about the beginning of the prefent century. In this Diocefe are the following towns. Manager, in Latin Agcr Marice, is a little town fituated on a gulf called Mariagerfiord. The latter is four geographical miles in length and half a mile in breadth, and is convenient for the inhabitants to carry on a little trade, which moftly conlifts in ftoncs and lime. The convent of St. Bridget, to which the church of Manager formerly belonged, but now converted into a nobleman's feat, was founded in the year 1420; but gradually role to be the principal in the whole country for largenefs and opulency. And, in- deed, the church is exceeded by very few at prefent. Between the church and the tower there is a low building, which has a communication with both and is called the cathedral. The church and convent ftand on an eminence without the town. Hobroe, in Latin Hobroa or Hopontum, is a fmall market-town. The in- habitants live chiefly by agriculture ; but carry on fome little trade on the Mariagerfiord, or gulf of Mariagcr. Note, Both thefe towns are in ecclefiaftical matters under the jurifdiiftiori of the Bifhop oi Aar hints, but are properly lubjecf to the General-Governor of Viborg in civil affairs. They lie in the Herred oiOnJild, in the Prefecture of Manager. Randers, in Latin Randrufia or Randrufnim, is a well known trading town of a middling bignefs, fituated on the river Guden. The houfes are high and ftrongly built, according to the old tafte. This town had formerly four churches and two convents : But at prefent it has only one parifh- church, a grammar-fchool, a well endowed hofpital, and a chapel which ftands a little way without the town. The caftle of Dronningborg, which ftood here, is frequently mentioned in hiftory. The town is now famous for its leather gloves, fine faimon, earthen ware, and ftrong beer. It was formerly extremely well fortified. The firft time that Randers is menti- oned in hiitorv, is in the year 1247, when it was burnt by the enemy. In 1587, a full Diet of all the States was held here. Randers lies within the Prefecture of Dronnhigborg. Claufl.vlm is a fine palace, and ftands in the Herred o! Galthen. It was the conftant refidence of queen Anna Sophia as long as fhe lived. . Grinov, Grenaa, or Grim, is a mean little town which was formerly called Mols, in North-Herred. 'Ebeitoft > *34 D E N M A R K. [Aarhuus. Ebeltoft, in Latin Ebeltoftia or Pomagrium, is a little town on the bay of Ebeltoft, which forms a very good harbour for fhips of a middling fize ; fo that the inhabitants carry on fome trade by fea. It lies in the Herred of Mols and the Prefecture of Kalloe. Not far from it is the famous cape of Hellenes, oxHelgenas, i.e. of the Saints. Aarhuus, in Latin Aarhu/ia, Aarhußum, or Remorum domus, the capital of this Diocefe, lies low in a fine plain between the fea and a lake. From the latter the water runs in a pretty wide channel through the city, and divides it into two unequal parts. Aarhuus is a large populous town, and much frequented. It has fix gates, two market places, two churches and a chapel of eale, an epifcopal palace, a cathedral-fchool of fix clafles, and a well endowed hofpital. The cathedral is a large Structure, one hundred and fifty paces long, ninety-fix broad, and near forty-five Dutch ells in height. It was begun in 1201, and is adorned with feveral fuperb mo- numents. Before the Reformation here were two Convents and one Nun- nery. The Provofls of the diocefe hold an afiembly twice a year in the chapter-houfe. This city carries on a considerable trade ; and the harbour, which lies at the mouth of the abovementioned channel that runs through the town, is indeed convenient and fafe, but none of the largeftj and fometimes has not a proper depth of water. The paflage from hence to Kaliundborg in Seelands about twelve geographical miles. In the eleventh century this place was but a bare harbour, with only a few mean huts built near it ; and the old city of Aarhuus ftood about half a geographical mile up the country, on the fpot where the village of Eisberg now ftands. But, probably about the clofe of the eleventh century, the prefent city was built for the conveniency of the harbour ; and accordingly it has flouriflied be- yond expectation. It lies partly in the Herred of Haße, and partly in that of Ning, and in the Prefecture of Hauerballegaard. Skanderborg is a very ancient palace, and magnificent enough according to the tafle of the age in which it was built. It ftands in a plcafant coun- try, being furrounded on every fide with woods and water. The kings of Denmark, ever fince the Chriftian religion was introduced into the kingdom, have relided here more or lefs. Frederick II. has often fpent the fummer at this place : Chrijlian IV. generally made it the refidence of the young princes ; and in Frederick the fourth's time the apartments were made more commodious and embelliihed with new ornaments, and a garden was laid out near it. On one fide of this palace lies the little town of the fame name, which carries on fome trade in the produce of the country ; but the chief employment of the inhabitants is agriculture. As the parifli church lies at fome diftance from the town, the inhabitants attend divine fervice in the palace-chapel. In the year 175 1 fome works were let up here for refining brown, red, and yellow oker, all which Species of earth are very common in Jutland. Skanderborg town lies in the Herred of ' Hiehnflof. 3 R ) r > Aarhuus.] DENMARK. i 35 Rye, in Latin Rus Regis, is an ancient market town in the Herred of Thyrßing. It was formerly a place of fome confequence, but at prefent is reduced to a village. Here the Nobility elected Chriflian III. to the throne of Denmark in the year i 534. The church at Rye, in the times of popery, was reputed to be a very lacred place. Horfens, in Latin Horjhefia, or Hothcrfncfium, i. e. Hother's promontory, is a healthy town of a middling bignefs. It ftands on the Baltic, and has two churches; in one of which the pulpit is made of ebony and Brafil wood, and faid not to have its equal in all Denmark. Here are alio a gram- mar fchool and an hofpital, both very well endowed. As the harbour is too (hallow for veffels deeply laden, they come to an anchor in the road, about a quarter of a geographical mile from it ; and the goods are carried on board and landed in Prahms or lighters up the river which runs along the louth fide of the town. The old cattle of Stiernholm, which gives name to the Prefecture, formerly flood at the mouth of the harbour. In \51\Chrijlian III. received the homage of his fubjects, being feated in the open air near this palace. The Counties in this Diocefe are, Friefenbwg, which lies between Randers and Aarhuus, with acaftle of the fame name. It belongs to the Counts of Frits. Locnhohn, which is in the Prefecture of Kalloe. Scheel, in the fame Prefecture, which belongs to Count Scheel. The Baronies are, Hogholm, which lies in the Prefecture of Kalloe, and belongs to Count Danejkiold the younger, of Samfoe. Marfillcsburg, which lies in the Herred of Ning, belongs to Vice-admiral Danejkiold, Count of Samfoe. Wilhelmsburg, which lies in the fame Herred, and in the Prefecture of Hanerballegaard; it belongs to Baron Guldencron. The Manor of Rofenholm, which lies in the parifh of Hornßet, in the Herred of Eafi Lisberg, and Prefecture of Kalloe, is celebrated for having been the refidence of the learned Holger Rofencranz and his fon Erick, in whofe time it was the feat of the Mufes. In Hornßet church are feveral fine tombs belonging to the Rofencranz family, and alio a library. The ifland of Anholt, which lies in the Cattegat, about eight geogra- phical miles from Jutland, ten from Seeland, and feven from Hallaud, be- longs to the North-herred of the Prefecture of Kalloe. There is a hght- houfe on this ifland, on account of the dangerous lands with which it is furrounded. Anholt makes a fmall parifh, and the inhabitants chiefly fublilt by.fifhing. What they moftly catch is the cants marinus, or dog-fiih. NGte, The ifland of Samfoe, in religious affairs, is under the jurifdiction of the bifhopof Aarhuus ; but, with regard to civil matters, it is include 1 in the Diocefe or Government of Seeland, where it has been already defenbed. i 3 6 DENMARK. [Ripen. 'The Diocese, or General Government of RIPE N. ^p HIS Diocefe is bounded by the gulf of Lymfurt on the North, by the -"- Diocefes of Wiborg and Aaarhniis, and the Little-Belt on the Eaft : It joins to the Dutchy of S/eJivick (part of which belongs to it) on the South; and to the Weft it is wafhed by the North-Seä. It is thirty geographical miles in length, and from eleven to twelve in breadth ; and is the moft ex- tenfive, but not the moft fertile or populous of the four Diocefes in N rth- Jütland. It is interfperfed with large barren waftes; particularly that called Aal-Heath which lies between Kolding and Skive, being feven geographical miles long, and almoft one continued barren defert. In feveral parts of this Diocefe, however, the foil is very fertile; efpecially in the Prefecture oi KoLiing. The See of Ripen was founded in 946, by the Emperor Otho I. who after a iuccefsful war againft Harald king of Denmark, prevailed on him to embrace the Chriftian religion. The name of the firft Bifhop of this See was Liefdagus or Leojdagus. This Diocefe was at that time very extenfive and confiderable ; and the learned Mr. Moller has, in a particular treatife, proved the See of Ripen to have been for a long time the only one, as well as the moft ancient of all the Sees in Denmark, Norway, Iceland, Greenland, Sweden, and Livonia. The principal manors in this Diocefe are fifty-fix in number; it contains four Prefectures, which are as follows. I. The Prefecture of Bofling comprehends the north part of the Dio- cefe, and includes the Herreds of Wanfuld with nine churches ; Schodborg with fixteen ; JJhborg with four ; and Hind with twelve churches. The moft remarkable places in this Prefecture are the following : Lemivig, in Latin Lemovicum or Lemviga, is a very ancient but fmall market-town. It is meanly built, and ftands on the gulf of Lymfürt : The inhabitants are chiefly fea-faring people. In 1680, part of this town was con fumed by fire. Wellerivig is a large ftructure, which was formerly a very famous con- vent, and appears to have been founded in the year 1110. In the court the walls of the church are ftill remaining, with the monument of the Princefs Licden Kirßen, who was fo celebrated by the ancient Danifl poets for her beauty. Boberg is a high promontory, near which the coaft is very dangerous and has proved fatal to many fhips. Torß- Ripen.] DENMARK. 137 Torßmi?ide lies to the fouth of Boberg. Here the North-Sea runs into the land and forms a large bay, in which are feveral iflands ; but, on ac- count of the fand-banks and mallows, it is of little advantage to navi- gation. Holßebroe, in Latin Holßebroa or Holzepontum, is a middle fized town and ftands on a river, which yields plenty of fiih and empties itfelf into the abovementioned bay, but has not a fufficient depth of water for fading veffels. The inhabitants chiefly fubfift by dealing in corn, oxen, and horfts. Within this century Holßebroe has feveral times fufFered by fire. It lies in die Herred of Ulfborg. Ryffenßein is a large Barony belonging to Baron Jucl : It lies between Holßebroe and Ringkiobing. Ringkiobing is a town of great trade fituated on a large bay. The inha- bitants almofl entirely employ themfelves in trading to Holland and Nonv lan- guages are ufed : In others only Danißj is fpoken by the inhabitants, ex- cepting fome people of fafhion, who affect to diftinguifh themfelves from the commonalty by fpeaking German. In the Prefecture of Tunder, the above-mentioned places excepted where the Friefian language obtains, Divine-fervice is univerfally performed in Danißo, as it is alfo up the coun- try farther north. At Flensburg and other towns in the northern part of Slefwick, fome Danijh preachers are fettled, on account of the great num- ber of Danes among the fervants and labourers in thefe parts, to whom a fermon is preached every Sunday in the Daniß language. The German alone obtains in great fchools in the towns ; but in thofe places in the coun- try where the Danißo language only is fpoken, Danißo fchool-mafters are appointed. .Lutheranifm is the prevailing religion in this Dutchy, except at Frede- rickftadt, where, befides Papifts and Jews, feveral particular fects are to- lerated. On the ifland of Nordfirand the Roman-Catholics have a parifh- church and a chapel to perform their devotions in. The Cahinifts are alfo 1 indulged i 4 4 DENMARK. [D. Slefwick. indulged in the exercife of their religion in this Dutchy, by an edict iffued out in the year 1734 ; but they are not very numerous here. The Nobility of Slefwick have the fame privileges with thofe of Holftein; excepting, that they are not fubjeft to the fame Governor, but acknowledge the King only for their fovereign, and are under the jurifdidlion of the royal Provincial Court at Gottorf, which will be fpoken of in the fequel. This country has from time immemorial been united to the kingdom of Denmark ; and as a part of that monarchy had the fame fovereign and con- rtitution till the year 1085, when king Knut the Pious created his brother Oluf duke of Slefwick ; a political error in which feveral of his fucceiTors have copied after him to the irreparable damage of the kingdom. King Niels inverted Knut the fon of king Erlck with this Dutchy as a Fief; and from that time it has been almoft continually held by a prince of the Blood, under the title of a Dutchy; but not without numberlefs contefts, in which it has often been warmly difputed whether the Fief was perfonal or heredi- tary. At laft, the Dukes formed a defign of entirely difmembering Slef- wick from the Danljh dominions. But in the year 1424, the affair was re- ferred to the arbitration of the Emperor Slgifmund, who adjudged the Dutchy to king Erlck as a part of his kingdom. As Duke Adolphus died without iffue in the year 1459, King Chrijtian I. claimed the vacant Dutchy as a Fief of the Danlßj crown ; but in order to ftrengthen his claim by the affections of the people, and to gain Holftein alfo, he condefcended to be elected Duke of Slefwick and Holjieln by the Nobility, and, at the fame time, granted the rtates feveral important privileges. King jfobn was the firft who unfortunately planned the partition of Slefwick and Holftein, in the year 1490. He referved to himfelf in both Dutchies the following places, and revenues, namely, Segeberg, the cuftoms or toll at Oldeflo, the port of Kaden, together with Rendsburg, Hanrow, Hafldorp, Femarn, Aljen, Sun- derburg, the ifland of Arroe, and the territories of Flensburg and Appen- rade. To his brother, Duke Frederick, he affigned Gottorf, the parifh of Kampen, Llttle-'Tundern, Haderßcben, Eckernforde, Rundhof, Steinburg, Eiderftedt, Trlttow, Oldenburg, Plön, the caftle of Tylen, Itzehoe, Ofterhof Hohenfeld, Neumunfter, Lutkenburg, Kohovede, Neuftadt, Kiel, and the ifland of Nordftrand. The convents lying in the two Dutchies were alfo divided; the king referving to himfelf thofe of Rheinfeld, Arensbok, Preetz and Ruge-, and inverting the Duke with thofe of Bordlfl.'olm, Clfmar, Relnbeck, Ueter- Jem, and Lugum. Befides all this, the king inverted his brother with the title of heir apparent to the kingdom of Norway, which the fucceeding Dukes of Slefwick and Holftein have carefully kept up. King Chrlftlan III. made another divifion of tbefe Dutchies between himfelf and his brothers, referving for his own fhare Flensburg, Sonderburg, Aifen, Arroe, Sundewlt, the convent of Ruge, Segebcrg, Oldeflo with half the toll, Reinfcld, Arenf- bok, Plön, Steinburg, Itzehoe, Krempe, Wiiftcrmarfch, Heillgcnhafen, and Great- D. Slefwick.] DENMARK. 145 Great '-Erode. To John he affigned Haderfleben, Doming, Little-Tundern, with Oßerharde, Rendsburg, and three villages ; the ifland of Fenwrn and the convents of Bordejholm and Lugum. But Adolphus had for his fhare Gotlorf, the feat and Prefecture of Hütten, Hujum, Apenrade, Wittenfee, Morkirchcn, Stapelhohn, Eiaerfleat, Kiel, Ncumunjier, Oldenburg, Trit; Reinbeck, Cifmar, and Nai/idt. Frederick, the fourth brother, being pro- vided for as bilhop of Hildejheim and Slefwick, was excluded from having any (bare in this partition. This fecond divifion of Slefwick and Jiolflein among the princes of the Blood was attended with more fatal confequences than the firft. The King, indeed, acted with prudence, and eftablimed the Union and Communion, as they are called, in thefe principalities. The former related only to an obligation of reciprocal afiiftance ; the latter to their common form of government in matters pertaining to the Nobility, Contributions, and fome other articles. His defign was by thefe precau- tions to prevent any difcord among the princes, or a total disjunction of the Dutchies or any parts of them, which might render them independent of each other. But as thefe inflxuments of Union and Communion were, ac- cording to the fimplicity of thofe times, drawn up in very plain artlefs terms; each party afterwards was for wrefting the meaning of the words to favour its private views. Duke John, the fecond brother, dying without heirs in the year i 580, his fliare was again divided. King Frederick II. took the feats, Prefectures and towns, with all the prerogatives and revenues thereto belonging of Haderßeben, Doming, and Rendsburg ; and to Duke Adolph were afiigned Tundern, Nordflrand, and Fernarn; alfo the convents of Lugum and Bordejholm, with all their dependencies. The third part, namelv, the cuftoms of Goitorf were fhared betwixt the King and the Duke. As for the divifion of Dithmarjh, the crown was inverted with the hereditary and fole property of the fouth part of it; and the north part was fettled on the Duke. In the year 1609, the Duke obtained of Chrifiian IV. as Lord paramount, the right of primogeniture. The fucceeding Dukes acknowledged, and conformed to the annexation of the Dutchy of Slefwick to the crown of Denmark as a Fief, which had been folemnly ratified in 1579 by the Con- vention of Odenfe, till Duke Frederick^ daughter was married to Char /es Gußavus king of Sweden, in the year 1654. For then the Duke began to afpire after an independent ibvereignty with regard to his moiety of Slef- wick and the ifle of Fcrnarn ; which Frederick III. on account of the bad fituation of his affairs, was obliged to grant : But the Duke loft this pre- rogative, in 1675, by the treaty of Rendsburg. And though fome alteration in the Duke's favour was made in this affair, in the year 1679, by the treaty of Fontainbleau ; yet the King fequeftered to himfelf the Duke's part of the Dutchy of Slefwick in 1684; and it was not till the treaty of Altena, in 1689, that his Danijh majefty again gave up the fovereignty. But, in 17 14, king Frederick IV. re-affumed it; and it was confirmed to him by the treaty of Vol. I. U Stock- 146 DENMARK. [D. Slefwick. Stockholm which was concluded in 1720. As the whole Dutchy was then incorporated with the kingdom of Denmark, his majefty ordered the two lions, which are the arms of Slefwick, to be expunged out of the Holftein efcutcheon, and to be inferted in that of the kingdom of Denmark. The Emperor, and the Kings of England, France, Sweden, and Spain, together with the republics of Holland and Poland were guarantees to his Danifh majefty for his new acquifition. As for the fmall principalities of Au- gitftettburg, and Ghicksburg we fhall fpeak of them in the fequel. The Dutchies of Slefwick and Holftein are, at prefent, governed by a Statthalter, appointed by the king : And this high Poll is now filled by the Margrave of Brandenburg-Culmbach. The whole Dutchy is divided into cities, Prefectures, Diftricts, Hardes, Birkes, Parifhes, Manors, and Koges. The cities have their particular ma- giftrates, who are quite independent of the Prefectures, though they trade with the Diftricts of the latter. The Statthalter for the time being is pre- fident or chief judge in all the towns of the Dutchy. The Amts or Prefec- tures are governed by Prefects, and over the Diftricts and Hardes Lavdvogte a, id Hardefvogte are appointed for the maintenance of order, and adminiftra- tion of juftice. The Diftrict of Eiderßedt is governed by its particular laws called Viti Dinggericht, and certain magiftrates who are diftinguifhed by the title of Oberjlaller and St aller. In fome Prefectures the Amtman or Pre- fect alone judges at the firft hearing of a caufe. But in others the Hardef- vogt or chief magiftrate of the Harde is joined with him. From their fen- tence, before the execution of it, there lies an appeal to the court called Ding. In fome Prefectures the Hardefvogt pronounces a definitive fentence alone in his, own Harde; whereas in others eight collegues called Sandman- nern, or twelve Bonden, lit on the bench with him, and have an equal vote. In cafe of an appeal from fuch a fentence, he muftjuftify it before the ir.- preme court, if required. The Prefect of every Prefecture may fit as pre- fident in the courts of judicature called Dinge and Bcnden courts; but has no voice in fuch courts. The common law of this country is contained in the old futijeke Lowbuck, or Codex legum futicarum, inftituted by king Waldemar II. in a Diet held at JVordingborg in the year 1240. Some towns, however, have their particular municipal laws. The fupreme court of ju- dicature for this Dutchy is held at Gottorf, and has four feftions in a year to determine all caufes that are brought before it. In Gottorf caftle the pro- vincial court is held annually in Ea/ler-weck, where, as in the former, all verdicts and fentences are patted in the king's name. It confifts of the Statt- halter or Governor, four Noblemen, four Counfellors learned in the law, and a Recorder, with a Notary and Secretary. Next to thefe is the chief Confiftory, the members of which are the counfellors of the Dutchy or pro- vincial Court, the general Superintendant, who is the chief confiftorial Counfellor, with two other confiftorial councillors, who ate eccldiuilics. The D. Slefwick.] DENMARK. i 47 The three laft have alfo a feat in the Supreme Court of Judicature during the fellions of the chief Coniiftory. The towns, Prefectures, and manors are divided into a certain number of Pflügen or Ploughs * of land, according to which the taxes arc impofed. The newly encloled Koges are afTefled accord- ing to their number of Demates, a land-meafure which in Eiderfledt is equal to 216 fquare rods, allowing fixteen feet to the rod j but in the Pre- fecture of "Tuiulern is no more than 180 fquare rods, at eighteen feet the rod. The taxes in the country are fometimes levied by the ftewards or clerks of the Prefectures, and fomtimes by the magiftratcs of the Hardes, and by them paid to the king's receiver at RinJsburg, whither the towns and manors remit their affefTments as foon as they are collected. In every Prefecture there is alfo a Steward, or Adminiftrator, who takes care of the royal revenues, the repairs of the roads, the prefervation of the woods, &c. King Chriflian VI. eftablilhed a Brandgild or Fire-office -f- in every Pre- fecture and Harde ; and thefe are under the direction of the General-Col- lege for the improvement of manufactures, &c. £ But the towns have their particular Brandgilds. The Prefectures and Diftricts in this Dutchy are as follows : I. The Prefecture of Hadersleben, which is feparated from North- Jutland by the river Holding, extends in length from the Baltic to the North-Sea above nine geographical miles, and from four to five in breadth. As to the number of Plough-lands and revenues, it exceeds any Prefecture in this Dutchy. The largeft rivers in Haderßeben are the Schodtburg, the Nipj-Aa, and the Lohbeck. The foil is very fertile, efpecially in the eaftern parts of this Prefecture, which are alfo very woody. It takes its name from the town of Haderßeben, in Latin Hatterßebia ; which lies in a low, open plain. It is of a middling bignefs and carries on fome commerce ; and part of its trade arifes from its being the ufual thoroughfare to Funen and "Jut- land, and part from the Shipping which belongs to this port. But the latter is not very confiderable ; for the entrance into the harbour is fo thallow, that they are obliged to carry the goods on board the fhips in Prahmes or lighters. The town is divided by a narrow ftream into two unequal parts, which are called Old and New Haderßeben. In the former, which is but meanly built, ftands the parifh-church of St. Soren or Severin, which being reckoned a rural church belongs to the Prefecture. In the latter, which can no longer be properly called the New-Town, are fome * A Plough of Land is a certain number of acres of arable land. We alfo call it a Hide in England, which is as much as one plough can cultivate in a year. f'This feems to be an Office for receiving the duty on wood, (sfc. for fuel, or perhaps what we call Hearth-money in England; or it may be an Infurance-office ; but the Author leaves us in the dark in this particular. X See Introduction to Denmark, §. 19. Art. 4. U 2 hand- i 4 8 DENMARK. [D. Slefwick. handfome houfes, which, indeed, fuffered by the ravages of the Imperi- alifts ; and the large parifh-church of St. Marys. There was formerly a Cathedral at Haderjlebcn. The fchool and the well endowed alms-houfes were founded in the year 1569, by Duke John, brother to Chriflian III. and the former, in 1584, received a confiderable benefaction from king Frederick II. There was anciently a large caftle or palace on an eminence without the town. Hader/leben obtained a charter of" privileges in the year 1292. In 1534, king Frederick II. was born in this town, as was king Frederick III. in 1609. The Prefecture of Hadersleben confifts of feven Hardes; two of which are fertile in every part ; but the other five contain a great many barren fpots. Thefe Hardes are as follows, viz. 1. Haderßcben confiding of eleven parifhes, among which is included Arofjunds-Fekre in the Little-Belt. 2. Thyjlrup with fourteen parifhes. 3. Gram with ten parifhes. 4. Fros with fix parifhes. 5. Kalflund with five parifhes. 6. FLvidding with twelve parifhes. 7. Norder-rangjlrup with five, and the Vogtey of Bollerjleben, the Plough- lands of which he difperfed in the Prefectures of Appenrade and Tundern. Twenty-nine of the rural churches are under the jurifdidtion of the bifhop of Ripen, and the reft are under the Provoftfhip of Haberjleben. In the Harde of Gram lies Tcrning, which was formerly a famous ftrong caftle, but now only a royal manor. Some who dwell in the Fief of Torning, as it is called, are under the jurifdidtion of the Birke of Ripen, which was erected in the year 1735. II. The Prefectures of Apenrade and Lygum Convent. The Prefectures of Abenrade, properly Abenraae, and Lygum Con- vent are both under the fame Prefect. That of Apenrade is very mountainous, and yields plenty of game and fifh. It derives its name from Apenrade, one of the beft and moft flourifhing towns in the country, which, within thefe three centuries, has been greatly enlarged, and ftill continues to improve both in beauty and extent. It lies at the bottom of a deep open bay which runs from the Baltic a good way into the land. It is environed on three fides with high mountains; and has a fafe and com- modious harbour, but not deep enough for fhips of burden to come up clofe to the bridge. Moft of the inhabitants are in good circumftances; for they are noted for fhip-building, and have of late been conftantly employed. This town has frequently fuffered by fire; namely, in the years 1148, 1247, 1576, 1616, 1629, and 1707. But the induftry of its inhabitants ha» repaired all the loffes it fuftained. The caftle or Amt-lmtfe of Brun- lund, D.Slefwick.] DENMARK. 149 hind, a mean fmall edifice, lies a little way to the eaft of Apcnrade. Queen Margaret, who built this palace in 141 1, intended to have enlarged it, had fhe not been prevented by death in the following year. It is at prefent the refidence of the Prefect. This Prefecture contains, 1. The Ha nie of Ries confiding of four parifhes. In one of thefej.namely, the parifh of Jordkicr, lies the village of Toljlede, near which is the place called Urnehovet, where the ancient Slefwick Nobility ufed to hold their Diets or affemblies of the States in the open air. 2. The Harde of Suder-rangjlrap, containing four parifhes. 3. The Birkiogtey of Warnit-z which is a large village with a church in it. The Prefecture of Lygum or Lohm-kloster, in Latin Locus Dei, was formerly a rich Bernardino convent, faid to be founded in the year 11 52, but is now converted into a manfion-houfe for the Prefect. In the convent- church, which is a fpacious handibm ftructure, lie five of the bifhops of Ripen. The inhabitants of this Diftrict make a great deal of lace. This Prefecture confifts of one Birkvogtey which includes three parifhes. III. The Prefecture of Tundern is above five geographical miles in length; its greateft breadth is about eight; and the foil is rich and fertile in moft parts of it. The inhabitants chiefly fpeak the Jutland and Friefian dia- lects, but generally underftand the Low-Saxon. The Hardes of Backing and IViding, with the iflands Sylt and Fohr are under the jurifdiction of the Drey harder Court. This Prefecture confifts of thefe Hardes, namely, 1. Booking, which confifts partly of heaths, and partly of marfhland. The former is called Riefmohr and contains four parifhes. The marfhland was formerly a clutter of iflands, which were gradually joined to, and became a part of the main land. However, Gaimsbul may, in fome meafure, ftill pafs for an illand, as in fpring-tides this little eminence is furrounded by the water. The inhabitants of Gahmbul fubfift by ufing the fea, and the profit arifing from a finall falt-vvork. This Harde contains three parifhes. 2. The Harde of Horsbul or Widing, which is all marfhland, and was formerly an ifland, confifts of fix parifhes. 3. The Harde of Karr, which is about three geographical miles long and two broad. The foil here is moftly fandy and barren, with a very little marfhland. It contains ten parifhes, and the large village of Leek, faid to have been formerly a confiderable town. 4. The Harde of Lundtoft, which contains four parifhes. The manors belonging to it alfo include two parifhes. .5. The Harde of Schlaux or Schlnx, for the moft part, confifts of fandy, marfhy, and barren foil, and contains fix parifhes. 6. The Harde oiTunder, confifts of a fertile foil and fine rnarfhes, and contains two parifhes. 4 7. The I5 o DEN M A R K. [D. Slefwick. 7. The Harde of Hoy er, is which pretty fertile, and has fome rich marflies : It confiils of three parishes, and the following places of note. Hoyer, which is a pretty market-town ; Toudern, a fea-port, which is pretty much frequented, and is very famous for its oyfters ; Emerlef, which indeed, belongs to the County of Schackenburg ; but as there are leveral perfons in it that are fubject to this Harde, I have inferted it here. 8. The ifland of 5)'// lies about one geographical mile and "a quarter from the Horde «of Widing, and is four geographical miles in length, but very unequal in its breadth. The foil cannot be faid to be fertile, neither does it produce wood or turf; fo that the inhabitants are obliged to fupply themfelves with fuel from the continent. They fubfift chiefly by agricul- ture, grazing, knitting, and navigation ; and are fuch expert feamen, that other trading towns are glad to employ them on board their mips. But as they are very fenfible of their abilities, few of them will ferve as common iailors, but expect the pay of mailers or mates. Both fexes are very tena- cious of their ancient drefs on this ifland, Sylt contains four parifhes, and is governed by a hand-Vogdt. The north-angle of this ifland which is called Lyß had formerly a harbour; but at prefent it is quite choked up with fand. It belongs to the Diocefe of Ripen. 9. The ifland of Fohr is a fertile fpot about three geographical miles in circuit. The eaft-fide which conflitutes two parifhes, and where a Land- Vogdt prefides, belongs to the Prefecture of Tundern; but the well-fide which contains but one parifh is fubject to the Diocefe of Ripen. The in- habitants in their manners, &c. perfectly refemble thofe of Sylt. On this ifland ftands the village of Wyck, which is built after the Dutch manner ; and as it has a fafe rode for fhips, the inhabitants carry on fome trade by fea. The places worthy of notice in this Prefecture are as follows. The town of Tunaern, in Latin limdera, is next to Slefwick one of the mod ancient in this Dutchy. It was endowed with the privileges of a city fo early as the year 1243, is well built, but not very large, and carries on a confiderable trade in corn, cattle, and the fine lace which is made here. This town has the fame privileges as Lubeck. Its church, which was built in 1 59 1 and 1592, makes a grand appearance. A fchool was founded here in 161 2. The old palr.ee which ftands in this town was never very large ; but was formerly well fortified. In the courfe of 500 years it has undergone feveral viciffitudes. For one while, it was enlarged and im- proved, and foon after taken by florm. After this it was mortgaged, and held out a vigorous fiege j but not long after it was entirely difmantled, and ftill continues in ruins. Several Koege and Diflri&s, which have been feparated from the main land by the fea, have had particular privileges granted them by the king, and collectively make a very fine and fruitful trait of marnVland. Thefe are 4 the D. Slefwick.] DENMARK. 151 the Dagebuller-Koeg, thofe of Old and New Chriflian, and Albert -K' eg, the Klegfeer-Frederick and Rut t bull- Koegs, the Bothfchi/l and Blucmen-Koeg. IV. The Prefectures of Sonderburg and Norburg, on the ifland« of Alsen and Arroe. The ifland of AlJ'en lies in the Baltic near the continent, and is between three and four geographical miles long, and from three fourths to one hall' in breadth. The foil is very fertile in every part of it, and yields great plenty of fruit and all kinds of grain, except wheat. It is a pleafant ifland, and is fheltered with feveral fine woods abounding in game. Here are alio feveral frelh lakes which are flocked with variety of fifh ; efpecially in the northern parts. It is divided into South and North-Harde called Sonder- burg and Norburg Prefectures. The Prefecture of Sonderburg is in the fouth part of the ifland and contains the following places of note, viz. The town of Sonderburg, in Latin Sonder bttrgum. As for the time when this town and caftle were built, hillory makes no mention of it. However, they are at leaft of 500 years Handing. Sonderburg is of a middling bignefs, and ftands on the acclivity of a very ruggid hill, which makes the ftreets very uneven. This town has of late years been much improved as to its buildings. Here is but one church, which ftands almofl without the town, on an eminence ; and adjoining to it is an alms-houfe built out of the ruins of an old convent. Moft of the inhabitants are mariners. Sonderburg har- bour is looked upon as one of the beft in Denmark. The king's palace, which flands on the weft-fide of the town at the entrance of the harbour, is both fpacious and flrong. It is a quadrangular flructure fortified after the old method with round baftions. On the ea ft- fide of this cai'tle is a round tower, in the lower part of which king Chri/lian II. was confined as a prifoner for twelve years. King Frederick IV. reflored this caftle to its prefent good condition, when it was falling to decay. It is the reiidence of the King's Prefect ; and has a beautiful chapel, where feveral of the princes of Sonder burg are interred. Augujienburg is the place where the Princes of Sonderburg refide. It flands at the diftance of half a geographical mile from Sonderburg, in the parifh of Ketting. It was built by Duke Rmeß Günther, grandfon to Duke John II. about the middle of the laft century; and is a handfom flructure. Near the caftle lies a fmall village, confiding of about forty houfes, which is moftly inhabited by perfons belonging to the Prince's court. The manors of Augujienburg, Gammelgaard, and the village of Gundjlrup 111 the parifh of Ketting, Evelgunde in the parifh of Not t mark, the manors of Rumobrjhof, Graveiißein, and the fine feats of Kielßrup and Ahrup alio belong to the Dukes of Sonderburg. The Prefecture of Norburg confifls, 1. Of the north part of the ifle of Alfen, which contains five parifhes. The i 5 2 DENMARK. [D. Slefwick. The ancient caftle of Ofierholm in this Prefecture lies in ruins, fo that all that is worthy of notice here may be reduced to Tumlofl or Norburg church with the fine feat called Norburg, lately built by Duke Auguflus. The caftle that formerly ftood on the fame fpot, which was one of the mod an- cient in the country and well fortified by art and nature, and had been fe- veral times befieged and taken, was con fumed by fire in the year 1665. The prefent edifice, though it is neither large nor magnificent, is admired for its elegant fimplicity, and pleafant fituation. The village of the fame name that lies near it was formerly called Kopping : It ftands in a pleafant fitua- tion, and is continually improving. 2. The ifland of Arroe, which lies at the diftance of half a geographical mile from Funen and two miles and a half to the North-Eaft of Alfen. It is three geographical miles in length, and from one-half to two-thirds of a mile in breadth. This ifland was formerly very woody ; but the foil has been al- moft totally cleared, in order to render it fit for tillage. There are no deer in Arroe ; but it abounds in hares and wild-fowl. Here are two good harbours, namely, that in the large bay, at the entrance of which two caftles for- merly ftood, one on each fide; and that of the little town of Arroes-Kiop- pifig, which is fheltered by the little ifland of Deyeroe that lies oppofite to the harbour. The inhabitants are a mixture of peafants and fea- faring people. Here is a great plenty of all kinds of vegetables ; efpeciallv cab- bage, onions, and Danifh cummin. Duke John II. bequeathed this ifland to his fon Chriflian ; but the latter dying foon after without iflue, it de- volved to his brother Frederick, who fold the middle part of the ifland to his brother Philip of Glucksburg. The reft of it devolved to the houfe of Ploen, and afterwards to the king, who, in 1749, purchafed the middle part, of the Glucksburg family ; and thus became fole proprietor of the whole ifland. It contains the Prefecture of Grafenflein (which cohfifts of the two manors of Wuderup and Grafenflein ; ) the little town of Arroefkopping, which ftands on a level and has a parifh-church and a pretty good harbour ; and alfo five pariihes, in one of which the little town of Marftal lies. As to fpirituals, this ifland is in the Diocefe of Funen ; but with regard to civil affairs it is included in the Dutchy of Slefwick, and is under a particular court of judicature by virtue of an edict published in the year 1750. V. The hereditary eftate of the Duke of Glukseurg. It is well known that king Frederick II. affigned fome parcels of land to his brother John, from whole third fon Duke Philip, the line of Glucksburg is delcended; and the prefent Duke Frederick is a great grandfon of the faid Philip. The Duke has both the higher and lower jnrifdiction over his hereditary dominions, with the right of hunting, and pardoning of crimi- nals. However, he cannot alienate his hereditary lands without the king's confent ; it being a patrimonial Fidei-Commifljum. It confifts, 1. Of D. Slefwick.] DENMARK. i 5 I. Of the little Prefecture of Glücksburg, which lies within the Harde of Huesbeyer in the Prefecture of Flensburg. Glucksburg, the Ducal palace, ftands in a delightful country, and is environed with a moat and a fine wood. In this place ftood formerly a rich convent of Bemardines, which was called Ruhe-Klojhr, and at the Reformation was fequeftered to the crown. But, in i 58 1, king Frederick II. conferred it as a Fief on his bro- ther Duke JJjn II. who ordered the prefent fine palace to be built out of the materials of the convent. Near the palace is a pretty village called by the fame name, and inhabited by officers and tradelmen belonging to the Duke's court. Befides the palace-chapel, which is the burial-place of the Dukes, it contains alio the churches of Muncbrarup and Nicu-kerken. 2. The Harde-Vogty, Broacker; and the little territory of Sundcwit (i. e. Witbarum vel "Jutorutn auflralium regio) which is one Danijh mile * in length, almoft as much in breadth, and cor.fifts of fix parifJies, four of which, viz. Broacker, Nubel, Satterup, and Ulderup are included in the diftricl of Glucksburg. In the firft of thefe the Glucksburg manors of Krammark, Sheelgaard, Freyleben, and Schott sbulhoff' or Nienhojf lie, In the others the Ducal eftates of Lundgaard and Phil'lipsburg, toge- ther with three other manors, are fituated. In Sundcwit lies the county of Rcventjau, to which befides the manfion- houfe which was formerly called Sandberg, and the parifh of Düppel, feve- ral other detached parcels of land belong. Count Cbrijlian Detlev is the proprietor of the Baronies of Brahe-trolleburg and Brendegaard in Funen y the eftates of Krenkrup, Rofenlund and Norregaard in Laaland, and Fr/- fenivold, Kalloe, Loißrup and Brufgaard in "Jutland. VI. The Prefecture of Flensburg extends from the North-fea to the Baltic feven Danißt miles in length ; but the breadth is unequal being about three miles and a half in fome places, and more in others. Its foil alfo varies in different parts of the prefecture ; the middle of the country being nothing but moors and barren waftes, and the Ikirts tolerably fertile and pleafant. Here the river Saholm rifes, which, after receiving the Wyh- beck and Leckau, empties itlelf into the North-Jea. The Treen, which abounds with fine fifli, and falls into the Eider near Frederickßadt, has its fource alfo in this Prefecture ; which derives its name from the town of Flensburg, in Latin Flenopolis or Flensburgum, which is a pretty large, well built town. Its fituation is low; and it is furrounded on three fides by mountains : But on the fourth lies the famous gulf called Flensburger- ■wieck which runs twenty miles from the Baltic into the land. The hills on both fides of the bottom of the gulf form a fecure harbour with a depth of water furficient for the largeft ihips, which at prefent are unloaded at the key ; but formerly this was done clofe to the warehoufes. The trade of this town was then, indeed, very confiderable, but is at prefent greatly * Ten and a half Danlfl) miles are equal to a degree of the Equator. Vol. I. X decayed. i 5 4 DENMARK. [D. Slefwick. decayed. The commerce of the Flenshirghers to Norway has been clogged with great difficulties, and that to Copenhagen and other parts of Denmark en- tirely loft ; for they are prohibited from exporting thither any cloths, filk, woollen ftuffs, wines '6r brandy, of which, with other conAnodities, they ufed to make very extraordinary profits. A fevere blow was alfo given to their trade by the laft peace concluded at Aix-la-Chapelle betwixt Fra/xe, England, and Spain ; fo that this town has further calamities to apprehend. Flensburg is along narrow town, and extends above a mile in length from the North gate to St. John's gate. It has twelve lanes befides the high ftreet, and five gates exclu five of the Mill-Gale. It is divided into twenty- two quarters ; and moft of the houfes are fpacious and ftrongly built. Here are three German parifh-churches, one Danijh, and a good fchool founded by Ludolph Naamau, who was a Francifcan monk of a convent of Minims in this town. This fchool has fince been enriched by feveral benefadVions. Here is an alms-houfe, with a chapel, that was formerly a convent of Grey - Friars, and in which fifty poor perfons are comfortably maintained; and alfo an orphan-houfe. There is a fort of an Exchange with warehoufes for merchants, &c. by the water-fide. The South and North Market-places are both fpacious areas, and the latter is adorned with a fountain of free- ftone. Without St. John's gate directly facing the harbour is a pleafant fuburb, called St. Jürgen, the greateft part of which belongs to the alms- houfe, and but a fmall part of it to the town. An old ruinous caftle ftands on a mountain which lies weft of the town, and not far from it is a paper- mill. The Prefecture and town of Flensburg, and alfo the territory of Bred- Jledt, in ecclefiaftical affairs, are fubjeci; to the conliftory of this Diftricl. With regard to the hiftorical particulars of this town, it firft occurs in hi- ftory in the year 1232, when, probably, it was only a village, on occafion of a convent which was then founded here. In 1284, it obtained the pri- vileges of a city from Duke V/aldemar, and had another more advantage- ous charter of Police from Chriftian IV. but the principal articles in both charters have been fince revoked. In 1412, the famous queen Margaret died on board a fhip in this harbour, in her paffage to Seeland. In 1427, it baffled the combined forces of the Hol/leiners, the Lübeckers, and the Ham- burgers, who warmly preffed it by land and by fea ; but at prefent it is a place of no ftrength at all. Several remarkable Diets have been held here ;, particularly that of 1648, when all the ftates paid homage to king Frede- rick III. In the fame year the Chancery or Supreme Court both for Slef- wick and Hol/lein was eftablifhtd here; but in 1649 it was removed to Gluckfladt in Hol/lein. In 1646, king Chriftian V. was born in the ancient caftle that flood in this town, which is now in ruins. In the year 1655, when the plague raged at Copenhagen, the Court and all the public offices removed to this town. The Hardes belonging to the Prefecture of Flensburg are, 1. Wies, which confifts of fix pariihes. 2. Huesby, D. SlefwicL] DENMARK. 155 2. Huesby, which is two Da/iißj miles and a half in length, and one in breadth. It contains five parifhes. 3. Nie, which is above two Daniflj miles in length, and feven in breadth, confifls of five parifhes. 4. Uggel, which is three Danißj miles long, but of an unequal breadth. It contains fix parifhes. Note. The famous trad: of land called Angeln, which is five Danißj miles in length and four in breadth, lies between the gulf of Flensburg and that called the S/ey. It includes the Hardcs of Huesby, Nie, with a great part of that of Uggel in the Prefecture of Flensburg ; part of the territory of Glucksburg, the Provoftfhip of Gcttingen, and the Hardes of Struxdorf and Schlieft in the Prefecture oiGottorf. In the fifth century the ancient inha- bitants of this country, in company with the Saxons and Jules, their neigh- bours on both fides, emigrated into Great Britain, where having re- pelled the invafions of the Picts, they made themfelves mafters of the coun- try, to which they gave the name of Engeland or England from that of their former habitation. VII. The Diftrict of Bredstedt, which was formerly called Norgos- Harde (as that of Hufum was called Sudgos-Harde) is two Danißj miles in length and as many in breadth, and contains a great many acres of marfhland. It had formerly its particular Landvogt and Secretary; but is now fubject to the Prefect of Flensburg. Since the year 1741, a college of Regulation, and a particular Police have been eftablifhed here. In ec- clefiaftical affairs it is fubject to the confiftory of Flensburg. In this Diftrict are the following places of note. Bredßedt, an ancient large market-town, well built and populous. South-weft of this place the Count des Mercieres inclofed a Koeg of 1 100 Demates of land, and gave it the name of Sophice Magdalena- Koeg. Eight parifhes, among which the Stift s-vogtey of Bordelum is a part of the old Diftrict of Schwabfied. The Secretary is alio Stift s-vogt or Governor of them. VIII. The Prefectures of Husum and Schwabstedt. The Prefecture of Husum alone is not above two Da?iißi miles in length and as many in breadth ; but the foil is fertile and well cultivated. It confifts of heaths and marfhland ; and on the former all the churches and villages are built. It alfo includes part of the Prefecture of Schivabßedt, which, during the minority of the prince, the government difmembered and parcelled out among the neighbouring Prefectures about the beginning of this century. The territories of Schwabßedt and Rodemis were annexed to the Prefecture of Hufum-, thofe of Trey a and Fußng to the Prefecture of Gottorf, and thofe of Bordlum, Bredßedt, and Colßrup were incorporated with the Prefecture of Apenrade. The Prefecture of Husum is fo called from X 2 Hufum, i 5 6 DENMARK. [D. Slefwick. Hufum, in Latin Hufumum, a pretty large town, and well built with ftone. It lies on the Hever where the heaths and marfhland are feparated from each other. It cannot boaft of its antiquity, as it was only a large village in the year 1372; but from that time to 1398, it increafed fo as to make the two villages of Eafi and Wefl-Hufum, which were incorporated with the parifh of Mil/tedt. In 1432, the inhabitants built a chapel for their own ufe, and in 1448, detached themfelves from Milfiedt, and became an independent pariih. After this Hujwn began to flourifh in a furprifing man- ner, and was made a market-town. In 1498, a convent of bare-footed Gray-Friars was founded here ; but at the Reformation it was converted into the alms-houfe and chapel which are ftill to be feen in St. Georges church-yard. In the year 1500, the parifh-church of Hufum, one of the largefr. and handfomeff. in the country, was built.. In 1521, a mint was eftablifhed in this town, where a great number of rix-dollars were coined ; but it was foon after removed to Slefwick. The fchool, which by the libe- ralities of private perfons is now endowed with a fund of 14,000 Lubec marks, and has five claffes, was built in 1 53 1 j and Duke Adolphus, in 1 577, began to build a palace on the fituation of the old convent, which he had the Satisfaction of feeing completed in the year 1582. It is a fpacious and convenient flxutture, and has frequently been the refidence of the Dowager Dutchefles. In 1582, this town obtained a charter of Police and jurifdic- tion within itfelf ; and in 1601, a noble town-houfe was built here. In 1603, Hufum was conftituted a city, with fuitable privileges, by Duke John Adol- phus, and in 1608, a new charter was granted it. The famous Antoinette Bourignon lived in this town in 1673, and had a prefs fet up in her houfe, where (he ufed to print her own works, till the government put a flop to her publications. The inundations of Nordßrand have been of great detri- ment to Hufum, by the abfolute ruin of its trade with that illand ; and the terrible flood which happened in 1717, has reduced the people of Hufum to a low condition. The ravages and calamities of war have alfo further loaded it with very heavy debts, under which it ftill groans. Formerly this city was famous for exporting great quantities of malt, which found the inhabitants a profitable employment. They alfo employed above forty large veffels in commerce ; and the oyfter-trade was almoft entirely in their hands ; but they are now deprived of all thefe advantages. The oyfter- dredges fuffered extremely by the hard froft in the year 1740 ; and, at pre- fent, the chief trade of this place confifts in beer, cattle, and horfes ; fome thoufands of oxen being annually fed by the Hufumers in the fouth-mar/hes, and in autumn, driven from thence for fale to Hamburg and Lübeck. But notwithstanding the great decay of its navigation, it ftill employs the indi- gent, and fupplies the place with the chief neceffaries in trade. Hufum has a Confiftory ; but an appeal lies from it to the fuperior Confiftory of Gottorf. To D.Slefwick.] DENMARK. 1-57 To the Prefectures of Husum and Schwabstedt belong eight pariflies, in which are the following places of note. Mildfiede, which is the mother-church of the Tlujum pariflies, and three minifters dill belong to it. Near Mildjkde on the river Mi/da formerly ftood the town and caftle of Mildesborg., which were built in i 145, and destroyed by an inundation in the year 1300. Schwabßedt, which is an old and ill built, but pleafant and populous town. Its caftle was formerly the refidence of the BHhops of ScJbkfivick, who had alfo a palace in that city. To the Prefecture of Husum belong alfo fame fmall iflands, among which are the ifland of Pelivorm, and what remains of the iiland of Nord- flrand, with the Downs or Sandbank which is ftill called by the fame name. Nordfirand lies in the North-Sea, and was formerly three Daniß: miles long, and, in moft parts, above one mile broad. It was inhabited by favage Friefians, contained twenty-two pariflies, and by its extraordi- nary fertility abounded in cattle and corn. For fome centuries this ifland had fuffered great damages, from time to time, from the violence of the fea, particularly in the years 1300, 1483, 1532, and 1 6 1 5. But the moft terrible inundation of all began about ten at night on the 1 ith day of October, in the year 1634, when the whole country was entirely overflowed ; and the im- petuofity of the waves was fo great that 6408 perfons, 1332 houfes, thirty windmills, fix fteeples, and 50,000 head of cattle were fwept away by the fea. In Eidetßedt, belides 664 houfes, involved in the fame ruin, 2107 perfons, 6100 head of cattle and 6738 fheep and hogs, periflied at the fame time. Of all Nordfirand nothing is now remaining but the fmall pa- rifli of Pelworm which owed its fafety to the height of its fituation ; and the Brabanderkoeg or little ifland of Nordfirand, which by the affiftance of fome Flemmings has with inexpreffible labour and at a vaft expence been drained and rendered habitable. Since this difmal cataftrophe the fmall ifland of Nordßrand, and the neighbouring Nordjlrand-Downs belong to the above-mentioned Flemmings, and particularly to the Fathers of the Oratory at Mechlin. There is a Lutheran church and a popifh chapel in Nord- ßrand. In Pelivorm there are two Lutheran churches j and one on each of the little iflands which lie about it, namely, Groed, Hoog, Langenes, Nord- marßj, and Oland ; which are all within the Prefecture of FLujum. IX. The Diftrict of Eiderstedt, which is a very fertile and rich coun- try, lies between the Hever and the Eider. It extends in length, from Eaft to Weft, above fpur Daniß miles; but the breadth is unequal from three-fourths to one and-a-half Daniß: mile, and its circumfe- rence is about fourteen. It is for the moft part a kind of marfliland, and produces plenty of wheat, barley, . beans, and excellent peafe ; and but lit- tle rye. It is particularly famous for efculent herbs, and cattle. A great quantity of butter and cheefe is alfo exported from hence. The fheep here have i 5 8 DENMARK. [D. Slefwick. have larger fleeces of wool than in other places ; and likewife give a greater quantity of milk. The horfes are fixong and of a large fize ; hut the greateft part of the horfes they employ here are bought in North-Jutland and Ditmar/b. Eiderjkdt is fupplied with wood from the higher countries at the diftance of feveral miles. Here is fome frefh-water fifh, but thefe are in no great plenty, the country being liable to the irruptions of the fea, which foon proves fatal to thofe fpecies of fifh. Its low and damp foil ren- ders the air very unhealthy, efpecially to ftrangers. The inhabitants :,re all plebeians, without one noble family amongft them ; and the wealthieft of thefe are of Friefian extraction. They have great privileges and particular laws and cuftoms of their own. The Dykes on the north and fouth-fide are kept in repair by incredible labour, and at a great expence. The go- vernment of the country is lodged in two officers called Oberfialler and Staller, who are appointed by the king; and fixteen inferior counfellors, and two fecretaries are joined with thefe in the Viti Ding Gericht or court of Judicature. This Diftrict is divided into Eafl and Weß-Eiderßedt. In Eaft-Eiderfledt the only town of note is Tonningen, in Latin lonninga, which is the chief town in the country; and obtained the privileges of a city in the year 1590. In 1644, it was forti- fied by Duke Frederick at a vaft expence *. This town is elegant, but neither large nor populous. In 16 13, the harbour was widened and improved by the Duke at the expence of 30,000 rix-dollars ; fo that Tonningen had a confiderable trade by exporting yearly large quantities of the commodities of the country, which every Monday were brought hither to market from every part of Eiderßedt. In 1675, during the war with Sweden, the Duke, purfuant to the treaty of Rendßurg, was obliged to cede this town to the King, who caufed the fortifications of it to be demolifhed. But when the Duke recovered the town and the whole country, in 1679, they were re- paired, and improved with additional works ; fo that when king Fre- derick IV. befieged it he was not able to make himfelf mafter of it. In 17 1 3, Steinbock the Swedißj General having by the Duke's confent been admitted into the town, the king of Denmark with the affiftance of his Allies plied it fo vigoroufly, that the Swedes were obliged to furrender them- felves prifoners of war ; and in 17 14, the king having got poffeffion of the town, the fortifications were demolifhed a fecond time. Tonningen has been in a defencelefs condition ever fince that time. It had once a noble caftle ; but that "was likewife demolifhed by the King's orders in the year 1734. Befides this town there are feven parifhes in Eaß-Eiderßedt, and the town of Olden/wort. * The author fays thirty-fix Tons of gold ; but I cannot pretend to determine what he means by a Ten of Gold. 4 Weft- D. Slefwick.] DENMARK. i 59 Weß-Elderßedt contains the following Diftri&s. 1. Ever/chop, or Heverfchop, which is io called from the river Hever. ft confifts of fix parifhes, befides the little town of Gording, which obtained the privileges of a city in 1590. 2. Uhtbolm, which confifts of four parifhes. On the Weft-IJever about the year 1670, flood a caftle called Wogenfmannefourg j which was inha- bited by pirates. The inhabitants of Everjchop and Uhtholm laid liege to it, and owed their fuccefs chiefly to a brave young woman, who ported her- felf on the Salley-bridgc and gave the befiegers time to force their way into the caftle, of which, after fome refiftance, they made themfelves mafters. X. The Prefecture of Gottorf or Gottorp is about feven DarJjh miles in length and fix in breadth, and confifts of the following Hordes. 1. The Horde of Hohner, fo called from the village and pmfh of Holm, is nearly furrounded by the Eider and Sorg ; and is about two Donifc miles in length and as many in breadth. 2. The Horde of Krop is about two Danißj miles long and one-and a-half broad. It moftly confifts of heaths and moors ; and Lohride one of the former is famous tor many battles which were formerly fought there. The only parifh in this Horde is that of Krop, from which it takes its name. 3. The Horde of Anns is fomething lefs than two DoniJJj miles in length, and almoft as broad ; and the foil is but little better than that of Krop. In this Horde lies the greateft part of the celebrated Danneiverk, or great wall which, in the beginning of the ninth century, Gotric king of Denmark built, to prevent the incurfions of the Soxons and Slovens. It runs acrofs the whole country, from Hollinfledt to the gulf of Sley, about eight or nine Daniß miles in length ; and a great part of it is ftill remaining. In this Horde lie the parifhes of Hollingjledt and Hoddeby, or Haddebue. The church belonging to the latter, which was built in the year 826, is the moft ancient in the Dutchy, and, I may add, in all Den- mark: But on the relapfe of the people into Paganifm, it has been feveral times deftroyed. It lies oppofite to the city of Slejivick on the fouth-fidc of the Sley, in which the firft Chriftians in this country were baptized, The name of this parifh is written eight different ways ; and fome will have it to fignify a fea-port town, others the Capital : For it is conjectured mat a city flood formerly in this place ; which is very probable, as the church feems to be the remains of it. 4. The Horde of Struxdorf is four Daniß: miles in length, and con- tains twelve parifhes. 5. The Horde of Schlies lies on the Sky.. The inhabitants of this Horde are chiefly employed in the fiftiery in the bay, where they catch great quan- tities of herrings, &c. It confifts of five parifhes. 6, The t 6o DENMARK. [D. Slefwick. 6. The Vogteys or little territories of Fufing and Treya. The former of thefe once belonged to Angeln, and the latter to the Prefecture of Schwab- ßedt. 7. The fmall Prefecture of Mohrkirchen. This was formerly a con- vent of monks of the order of St. Antony, and erected towards the^clofe of the 14th century. It includes the Vogteys or territories of Langjledt and Carlfwraa. In the year 1752, this Amt was inverted with a Judicature of its own in commercial differences ; from which there lies an appeal to the Superior Court of Gottorf. But in caufes of another nature it is under the Jurifdi&ion of the Inferior Confiftory of Gottorf; and the Governor of Got- torf 'alfo prefides over Mohrkirchen. Within the Prefecture of Gottorf are the following places of note. The caftle of Gottorf, or Gottorp, ftands in the Harde of Arens be- tween Lollfufs and Fredericksberg, which are two parts of the city of Slef- ivick, in a mod delightful country. Some derive the name of this place from Gottefdorf, i.e.' God's village y for it originally belonged to the bifhops of Slefwick, and was appropriated to a pious ufe. The moft ancient bifhops of S/e/wick refided in a caftle that flood about half a Danißi mile to the north-weft of that city, not far from the place on which an inn called Rugekrog now ftands, where fome of the ruins of it are ftill to be feen. That old caftle, however, was demolished in the year 1059. Afterwards Biftiop Occo built a new palace on the fpot where the caftle of Gottorf now ftands, which continued in the pofleffion of the bifhops of Slefwick till the year 1268, when Duke Erick procured it for himfelf by an exchange. It was at that time a ftrong fortrefs ; and the Dukes of Slefwick refided in it till the year 17 13, when king Frederick IV. got pofleffion of it, and united it to the crown of Denmark in the year 172 1. It had, from time to time, been improved, altered, and rebuilt by the Dukes of Slefwick ; and king Frederick IV. and Chrißian VI. alfo laid out confiderable fums in fur- nifliing and embellishing it with fine pictures, &c. In this palace are held both the Superior and Provincial Courts of Judicature, and alfo the Supe- rior and Provincial Confiftories. It once had two gardens ; but the Old Garden, as it is called, which lies fouth of the palace is entirely gone to decay, and now fold to a burgher. The New Garden, to the north of the palace, is beautifully laid out. It has an elegant fummer-houfe, in which was formerly kept a large globe of eleven feet diameter, the outfide of which represented the Earth, and the infide the Heavens fludded with all the known ftars of filver, gilt. Ten or eleven perfons might fit conveni- ently round a table within it. The whole machine revolved round its axis once in twenty-four hours, being put in motion by water; and was fo con- trived that it might be eafily kept in conftant rotation from within by means of an Archimedes'^ fcrew. In 17 13, this noble Globe was prefented to the Czar Peter I. who ordered it to be conveyed to Petersburg ; and therefore 4 we D. Slcfwick.] DENMARK. 161 we (hall give a farther account of it in defcribing that city. The Gottorf library was firft begun, in the year 1606, by Duke John Adolphus ; but in 1749, the books were removed from hence to Copenhagen. Oppoiite to the caftle of Gottorf, on the fouth-fide of it, ftands a palace of a very elegant ftruc- ture, which was erefted at a great expence by Count Nalt. When his Danifh majefty became mafter of the place, he beftowed this palace on the Statthalter or Governor of Slefwick-Holßein. Schlepwig or Slefwick, in Latin Slejvicum, is the capital of the Dutchy, and faid to derive its name from the Wiecke or gulf of Schley. It was for- merly called Huddebue; and the above-mentioned church, which ftands without the city of Slefwick, ftill retains that name. From the year 808, when the city of Mecklenburg was demolished, and the richeft merchants were removed hither by king Gotrick, Slefwick gradually increafed and rofe to great profperity : But in the eleventh century it was pillaged, burnt, and razed to the very ground by Harald king of Norway, and alfo by the Hol- fteifiers, Vandals, &c. Though it recovered itfelf pretty well after thofe calamities; yet has it feveral times fince met with the fame fate ; and, in the year 1447, it was entirely deftroyed by fire. However, it was a flou- riihing town, after all thefe misfortunes, till the year 171 3, when the Ducal Court being removed from Slefwick it fell to decay. And though the Governor and the State Officers ftill refide here, yet thefe advantages are not an equivalent for the above-mentioned lofs : Neither is it capable of carrying on any great foreign trade, the mouth of the Slcy, which is about five Daniflj miles below the town, being choked up; and at prefent a great number of houfes in this city ftand empty for want of inhabitants. Slefwick lies in a moft charming pleafant country. Its form is very irregu- lar; but fomething refembling a crefcent; it being about half a Danißj mile in length. The city is divided into three parts, namely the Old or proper Slefwick, Lollfufs, as it is called, which is a long ftreet leading from the town to the caftle of Gottorf, and Fredericksberg, formerly called Krat- zenberg, which lies at the fouth extremity of the town towards Rendsburg. In the Old Town there is but one church, which is the cathedral and de- dicated to St. Peter. It is a grand ftrutlure and makes a good appearance both within and without : However, it has no fteeple, or tower, though a very fuperb foundation of hewn ftone has been laid for one. This church was built in the year 1260; and about 200 years after, was al- moft totally deftroyed by fire ; upon which the Council held at Bafil, m 144 1, granted Indulgences to all who fhould contribute towards the re- building of it. Of the fine altar in this church I fhall fpeak in the account of Bordejholm, from whence it was removed hither. In the choir are the tombs of Frederick I. and his two queens, with thofe of the Dukes of Slefwick of the Oldenburg branch, and feveral bifhops. Not far from the cathedral is the Orphan-houfe, which was founded in the year 1714; and Vol. I. Y on x6 2 DENMARK. [D. Slcfvvick. on the great market-place ftand the town-houfe and the Grey-Friars con- vent. On the north-fide of the town on St. Michael's, hill ftands a church called by the name of that Saint ; and in Fredericksberg is Trinity church, which was built in 1651. There were formerly feven parifh-churches and fix convents in this city ; but now one can fcarce trace out the places where many of them flood. On the eaft-fide of the town on the other fide the Fißj-bridge lies the Holm, as it is called, where the famous convent of St. John, which was founded for ladies of noble families, ftands. There are ten nuns now refident in it, the Abbefs included. This convent was probably begun in 1 1 94, for nuns of the Benedictine order ; for it was never inhabited by monks, as fome affirm : Neither does it ftand on the Gull or Guldenholm, being at the diftance of a Daniß mile from it. In the gulf, oppofite to the city lies Mew-iJIand, fo called from the incredible multitude of Sea-Mews which make it their fummer abode. In former times a mole or caufey leading from the weft-end of the key to Memoenburg, and from thence to Hadebye, lay on the fouth-fide of the town. This was the ufual road into Hol/lein, and was defended by the ftrong caftle of Jurgensburg, which ftood in Meioenberg but is now in ruins. At the end of this mole, near the key, the caftle where king Abel refided when Duke of Slefivick ftood on the main land. When that monarch came to the crown by the murder of his brother Erick, he beftowed this caftle on the Auguftine monks, who converted it into a convent, which ftood on the fpot w here the Orphan-houfe now ftands. The mole has been fo fapped and wafhed away by the fea, that none of the remains of it are difcernible at prefent, but at low-water. XI. The little DiftricT: of Stapelholm lies between the Eider and the Treen, and is computed to be about two Daniß miles in length, and from three-fourths to two miles in breadth. It is governed by a Landvogdt who is fubordinate to the Prefect of Gottorf, and is a particular provoft- fhip confifting of three parifhes. In this DiftricT: lies Frederickßadt, which is not a large, but regular and well built town, and of a iquare form after the Dutch manner. It is fituated between the rivers Eider and Treen : Its ftreets are kept very clean, and in fome of them fine rows of lime-trees are planted. Some Dutch Arminians, who quitted Hol- land immediately after the fynod of Dort, were the founders of this town, and called their fettlement by the name of Frederick IV. who was then Duke of Slefivick. In 1632, Frederickßadt increafed confiderably. Half of the Magiftracy is of the Arminian and the other half of the Lutheran perfuafion : The Cahinijls alfo affemble in the Arminian church. The Lu- theran church was confecrated in the year 1 650. The moft fubftantial traders and merchants in this town are Mennonites *. Here are alfo fome Quakers * Thefc were a fort of rfnabaptifls, and derive their name from Mention Simon of Frifia, who lived in the 16th century. (but NORWAY, With the Islands of FAROE, ICELAND, AND GREENLAND. Vol. I. Z V t '7' ] A N INTRODUCTION TO THE DESCRIPTION of NORWAY. §. l.TTT ITTE and Homann have given us maps of Norway, which, VV however, are far from being correct, and ftand in need of many amendments. In B/aeu's Atlas there are particular maps of the feve- ral provinces of Norway-, and Homann alfo has publilhed others of the fame kind. Laftly, Keulen has favoured the Public with fome accurate charts of the Norwegian coaft. §. 2. Norway, by the Danes and Norwegians called Norge, was known to the ancients by the names of Norrike, Norrige, Nerigon, Norwegia or Norrigia. It is bounded to the Weft and South by the North-Sea, to the North by the Northern Ocean, and to the Eaft by Rußan Lapland and Sweden. It is feparated from the latter by a chain of mountains, the higheft parts of swhich are called Kolen, in Latin Juga montis Suevonis. The length of the whole curvature formed by the coaft of Norway, from Svin- fund to the North-Cape, is about 350 Norway miles * ; but in a ftrait line, or through the air, from Lindenaas which lies in $y°, 47' latitude to the North-Cape in 71 , 30', its length is 202 7 Norway miles. The breadth is very unequal, being about fifty Norway miles from the frontiers of Swe- den to Cape Statt near Sundmoer on the weftern coaft ; but in fome places it is only thirty, and in others not above fix Norway miles. t- The author does not tell us how many Nonvegian miles are equal to a deoree. It were to be wifhed he had ufed more precifion in determining the length of miles, ells, csV. which he often mentions in general terms, without fpecifying what miles, &c. he means. A way mile is at leaft equal to five or fix Englifi miles. Z 2 §. 3 . The i 7 2 INTRODUCTION TO §. 3. The air in mod parts of Norway is pure and falubrious, but more fo in the middle and eaft-fide than in the weftern parts : For in the latter the air is damp, and the weather extremely variable ; hence fcorbutical dif- orders are very common among the Norwegians. The cold in winter is to- lerable enough to the inhabitants, fo that they feel no manner of inconve- niency from it. Providence has alio, for their fecurity againft the cold, be- llowed on them not only plenty of wood, and, in many places, turf for fuel ; but likewife wool, the ikins of wild beads, and feathers of wild-fowl for beds and clothing : Befides, thofe who live in the vallies are fheltered by the high mountains from the cold piercing winds. In the eaflern parts the winter fets in about the middle of OStober and continues till the middle of April. The cold during that feafon is very in- tenfe ; and fo great a quantity of fnow falls in the northern parts, that the high mountains and vallies which are expofed to the North are -entirely covered with it year after year. Sometimes enormous mafles of fnow roll down from the fteep mountains and precipices with fuch impetuofity, that they demolifh houfes and trees, and kill the cattle and the peafants in the vallies underneath. However, the fnow does not lie long, nor fall in fuch quantities on the fea coaft ; and when the winter's cold is very fevere in the eaft and north parts of the country, the weather is commonly moderate and open on the weftern coafts : So that when the inhabitants of the eaftern parts have by means of the ice and fnow the convenience of bring- ing their commodities in fledges to the market-towns, thofe of the weftern fide on the fea-coaft, at the fame time, are employed in their profitable fifheries. In fummer the heat is often exceffive j which is partly owing to the high mountains contracting and firongly reflecting the fun-beams, and partly to the length of the days. Hence it happens, that in fome places only nine weeks intervene between feed-time and harveft; but on the middle of the continent it is ufually twelve weeks, and in the fouthern parts fix teen or eighteen after fowing-time before the corn be thoroughly ripened. $. 4. The weftern coaft of Norway is furrounded with a great number of iflands artificers or rocks. Some of the former are three, fix, or nine Norway miles in length, and pretty fertile ; but moft of them are fmall, and inhabited only by a few fifhermen and pilots. The rocks, which rife feveral fathoms above the furface of the water, are a kind of rampart and defence to the coaft, and amount to fome hundreds of thoufands. There are abundance of good harbours, which are formed by the rocks, on this coaft ; and in many places large iron rings are faftened to thefe rocks, for mooring fbips where there is not fea-room, or a fit bottom to anchor in. As the water is generally calm and fmooth between thefe fhelves or rocks and the main land, they are of great fervice to coafters; the violence of NORWAY. of the waves being broken againft thefe barriers, whilft the open places on the coafl: are very dangerous, and every year prove fatal to many fmall veflcls which are driven afhore in flormy weather. The Norway fhore is in very few places level or gradually afcending ; in fome places it lies low, but is generally deep or perpendicular, and fmooth ; fo that clofe to the rocks, on both fides, the depth of the fea is from an hundred to two, three, or four hundred fathoms. On the other hand the bottom is higher or more Hoping on the long uneven fand-banks, which are called by different names ; as Stor-eggen by fome, and by others Hav-broen, i. e. ' Sea-breaks'. Thofe banks, like the Jheers or rocks, extend from North and South along the coaft. Some of them are between four and fix Norway miles, others from twelve to fixteen, diftant from the continent ; and in thefe places vaft quantities of fifh are ufually caught. From the fea feveral gulfs and creeks run fix, eight, or ten Norway miles into the land ; and in fome of them which are but from fifty to a hundred fathoms in breadth, runs a narrow channel four hundred fathoms deep; but on the fides of thefe channels, which are called Tief-Runnen, the depth is not above a hundred fathoms. The particular qualities of the North-Sea near the coaft of Norway, have been already fpeciried in the ge- neral account of the Seas by which the countries defcribed in this vo- lume are bounded *. §. 5. Befides innumerable brooks and rivulets, Norway is watered by fe- veral large rivers, or ftreams, which are called by the general name of Ehen. Thefe are the Nied, Sule-Eh, Gäulen or Gulen, Otteraa, Syre, Nid, Skeen, Tyrefiords-Eh or Drammen, Lovcn or Laven, Glaamcn or Glommen, &c. The following lakes abound with fifh and are navigable, namely, Ryfs-vandet in Nordland, Schnaafen, Selboefee, the greater and lef- fer Mios, Slire-waffer, Sperdillen, Rand, Veßen, Saren, Modiun, Lund, Norfoe, Hvidfoe, Fares-waJ/er, Oeye-waJ/er, and Femmund-fee. On fome of thefe lakes are feen little floating iflands about thirty or forty ells in length. The rivers of Norway are not navigable for veflels of any burden, on account of the great number of rocks in them by which the navigation is obftruded, but much more by the catara&s or water-falls where the ftream precipitates itfelf from a height of fix, eight, ten, forty, fifty, and even a hundred fathoms. For flopping the timber which is floated down thefe water-falls, and generally without receiving any damage, Lenzes or booms, ftrongly for- tified with iron-bars are, at certain places, laid acrofs the rivers. The ex- pence of keeping up fuch a Lenz or boom in many places amounts to no lefs than three or four hundred rix- dollars a year ; but, in return, it annually brings in one thoufand or eleven hundred rix-dollars to the proprietor of it» Near thefe water-falls fome hundreds of fawing- mills are ere&ech * See Page 59. The *73 , 74 INTRODUCTION TO The bridges over the rivers in Norway are all of timber. In the winter when the rivers are frozen to a great depth they form the bell: roads in the country; for in lefs than an hour one may travel a Norway mile en thefe icy roads. The frefh-water in Norway is generally palatable and falubrious, and is impregnated with a great quantity of ferruginous particles. Here are alfo feveral kinds of medicinal fprings. §. 6. The Norway mountains are either jfuga montium concatenata, ex- tending themfelves in a long continued chain from North to South, or ftand Angle and detached from each other and furrounded with a level country. Among the former the Rolen in Finmark may be reckoned the principal, of which I mall give a further account in defcribing the Diocefe of Drontheim. It is accounted the longeft chain in Norway, and divides itfelf into two main arms or ridges of hills; one of which is the boundary between Norway and Sweden, and in its courfe is called by the feveral names of Rnd-ßeld, Side-field, Skars-field, or in general Sevebierge or the Seven Mountains. The other branch of the Rolen chain alio changes its name, and runs at firft from Eaft to Weft about fixteen Norway miles, as far as Romf- dal; but from Romjdal and Guldbrandjdal it extends itfelf towards the South for feventy Norway miles, and terminates at Lindenaas. The former ridge of mountains, from the manor of Dofre which lies on the fouth-fide of it, is called Dofrefield, and is nine Norway miles in breadth between Tofte on the fouth-fide, and Opdal on the north. The latter ridge which lies in a louthern direction is from twelve to fourteen Norway miles in breadth, and is in general called Langfield; but in particular parts from the adjacent countries it has the names of Loms-field, Sogne-field, File-field, Halne-ßeld, liar danger-field, Jogle-field, Bygle-field, Hekle-field, and Lang-field. Dofre- field is reckoned the higheft mountain in all Norway. On Dofrefield are four, and on Fiele-field two Field-fiuers, or Mountain-floves. Thefe are refting-places kept up, and provided with fuel and other neceffaries at the public expence, for the conveniency of travellers. In the year 1685, king Chriflian V. rode all the way over Dofre-field on horfeback, though all his attendants frightened at the rocks and precipices were not afhamed to alight and walk along this dangerous road. On the fummit of the mountain his Majefty was faluted by Major General Weib with a difcharge of nine pieces of ordnance, which expedition the King commemorated by cauling a py- ramid to be erected on the fpot. Thefe mountains, which ftand fingle, lie betwixt Cape Lindenaas and Cape Statt, and generally in a north and fouth direction ; but thofe that lie far- ther north, winding towards the Tea-coaft, extend, for the moft part, from North-Eaft to South-Eaft, and feveral of them from Eaft to Weft. The fummits of thefe mountains yield excellent paftures ; the fides of them are covered with woods and inclofures; and the vallies between them are finely watered NORWAY. 175 watered with brooks and rivers. Befides, their bowels contain inexhau- stible treafures of filver, copper, iron, and other metals. Many of thefe mountains are remarkable for their Angular form ; and in feveral of them are cavities of a vaft length and depth. Tind and Gule in Teilemark are reckoned the higheft mountains in that part called Sonden-fields. Floy- field near Bergen, which is fuppofed to be but half the height of Harnelen in Nordfield, or Snee-hornet on Sundmoer, has by a trigonometrical menfu- ration been found to be above two hundred fathoms or fix hundred ells high ; fo that Olrikken, which lies clofe by it, cannot be lefs than eight hundred ells in height. The inconveniences and di fad vantages arifing from thefe mountains, are as follows: The want of fertility in the foil; the demolition of the peafants houfes, fome of which are dangeroufly fituated on fieep acclivities ; the many difficult, perilous, and even dreadful roads occaiioned by them ; the flielter they afford to great numbers of wild beafts of prey in their clefts and cavities ; the lofs of many lives when the peafants venture down the fteep precipices of the rocks after their fheep or goats ; and, laftly, the danger, and even the actual calamities to which the inhabitants are expofed by the fudden difruptions of the mountains, when huge maffes of the rocks roll down into the adjacent vallies with great impetuofity. The advantages that counter-balance thefe inconveniencies are the many excellent fprings and fine rivers iffuing from the mountains; which alio afford good pafture, con- tain in their bowels inexhauftible treafures of minerals and metals, and are a kind of natural fortreffes to defend the country againft the irruptions of an enemy. Add to this, that they yield the moft extenfive and amazing profpec~ts. §. 7. As Norway is for the moft part full of ruggid rocks and high moun- tains, and has alfo many moraffes, barren waftes, and fandy deferts, there is but a fmall part of it arable or fit for tillage ; fo that if it were not for the profitable fifheries carried on by the inhabitants of the fea coafts, the timber trade in the highlands, the fale and carriage of charcoal to the mines, with the employments of grazing and hunting; it would not afford fubfiftence to one half of the inhabitants. The corn fowed in this country is alfo fubjec"t to mifcarry by many cafual- ties, being often nipped by unexpected and fudden frofts : In dry fummers it is often deftroyed by the great heats reverberated from the rocks, and in wet feafons wafhed away by torrents pouring down with furprifing rapi- dity from the hills. The fertile parts, and which produce moft corn, are, Indherred and Numedal in the Diocefe of Drontheim-, Sogne-fiord and Vaas in the Diocefe of Bergen ; jfederen, Ryejylke, Raabigdelag and the Fief of Nidenas in the Diocefe of Chrißian-fand ; Hedemarken, Heideland, Toten, Romerige, Ringerige, and Guldbrandßalen in the Diocefe of Aggerhuus. All thefe Diftricls, in moft years, not only afford a fufficient quantity of 3 g rain 176 INTRODUCTION TO grain for their refpeclive inhabitants, but alfo yield enough to fupply their neighbours. The other provinces, and, indeed, the greateft part of the country, ftand in need of a yearly fupply of rye, barley, peafe and the like; and what is worfe, in many places the third or fourth part of the inhabi- tants are not able to purchafe a neceffary quantity of grain : But thii defi- ciency is made up to them in other things. It is remarkable that though the foil never lies fallow, but is plowed and lowed every year; yet it never fails to produce all kinds of grain, efpecialiy barley and oats, fix, eight, or ten fold, and fometimes with a greater increafe. The corn alfo grows higher in Norway, and the ears are fuller, than what is imported from Denmark and Germany. All kinds of grain are fown in Norway, but not every where to equaj advantage. Rye thrives beft in Hedemarken, 'Toten, and Guldbrandfdalen. It is fown where woods have been burnt down, and the afhes left as manure : But in Sweden this cuftom has been found to be attended with very bad confe- quences, and therefore prohibited. Barley is produced in every part of the country, but chiefly in Nord- land, the Diocefe of Aggerhuus, the manor of Nidenas, the Diocefe of Chrifiianjand, and in Sognefiorden : But the bed malt is made of that kind of barley which is called Davids-Gerße or Himmeh-kom, i. e. David's barley, or Heaven's corn. Oats are the grain moft generally fown in Norway; but in many places the good grain is deftroyed by a kind of wild or fpurious oats *. Grey, white, and green peafe are fown not only in the fouth, but in the north part of Norway where the foil is claiey, though in no large quantities. Buckwheat, flax and hemp grow likewife here, though not in many places. When the feafon for fowing, &c. turns out bad, and, its neceffary con- fequence, a fcarcity enfues, hunger has taught the inhabitants to pound the bark of trees, and by mixing it with meal, to make bread of it. The fame neceffity, it may be prefumed, alfo put them upon baking the Fladen- brodt or Flat-bread, which is made of barley, oat, or rye-meal, in large, round, and very thin cakes -j~. Thefe are baked on round iron plates, and * Thefe are called by the French Folle avo'we, and are very difficult to be extirpated. Of this mifchievous weed Virgil complains in the following verfe : Infelix loliam, csf ßeriles dominantur ave>uc. Eel. v. vcr. 37. ' Wild oats and darnel choke the riling corn.' Dryden. -j- Such cakes are well known in Wales. As they are generally made of oat-meal, they are called Oat-bread. They are baked on round plates of call-iron, which arc called bake- ßones, and then hardened before the fire. The inhabitants in fome counties in If ales, live chiefly on fuch bread, which will keep a confidciablc time without fpoiling. if NORWAY. 177 if put in a dry place will keep for many years without moulding. The occalion of their making the bread in cakes, is, that few places produce a fufficient quantity of rye ; and bread made of barley and oat-meal bakes fooner, is more palatable, and goes the farther when rolled thin, than in loaves baked in the common way. §. 8. That there are good paftures in Norway appears by the exporta- tion of tallow, butter, &c. from thence to foreign parts. The beit and moft nutritive pafliires are in Lofoden, Vefieraalen, Vaas, Walders, Hal- lingdal, Tcllemark, and the manor of Nidcnas. Norway alfo affords moft kinds of efculent and garden vegetables, though they are not much culti- vated by the inhabitants ; nor is it without falubrious and medicinal plants, as Gentian, Radix Rofea or Rofe-root, Naflurtia, or CrefTes of feveral kinds, 'Trefoil, Cocbkaria or Scurvy-grafs, and that excellent anti-fcorbutic Angelica which is fo very ferviceable to the inhabitants. A great variety of wholefom berries alfo grow in this country, fome of which are com- mon to other places, as ftrawberries, blackberries, rafpberries, and the like ; others are peculiar to Norway and Sweden, as the Oexel or Afald-bar, Tege or Teye-bar, called in Latin Uva Norwegicce, Trane-bar, in Latin Myrtillus repens, Krykke-bar, Aaker or Ager-bar, Tyte-bar, Molte-bar, in Latin Chamamorus Norvegica, &c. §. 9. The trees which are natives of Norway, are elm, afh, yew, birch, and pine-trees, which grow here in vaft quantities ; alfo beech and oaks, but thefe are not very common, with alder, juniper, afpen, and fir- trees which grow in every part of the country. Here are alfo ebony, and lime-trees, of which, in many places, there are great numbers, maple, willows, &c. §. 10. With the wood of thefe trees the inhabitants carry on a vaft trade, which, with the fifheries, make them fome amends for the fcarcity oi grain they labour under. They export annually to feveral parts of Europe immenfe quantities of mafts, beams, balks, and deal boards, with other timber for houfe and fhip building. The fir-trees alone bring the country in a million of rix-dollars annually. The timber trade is chiefly carried on in the eaftern parts of Norway; namely, at Mofs, Drammen, Larvigen, Lange/und, &c. as the largeft trees are produced in thofe Diftricls ; and 1 moft of the inhabitants fubfift by that branch of trade and by fawing the timber. In the Diocefes of Bergen and Drontheim, the inhabitants are fupported moftly by the fifheries; vaft quantities of all kinds of fifh being caught on that coaft, and either falted, or fent away frefh to the city of Bergen ; from whence they are exported to foreign countries. The fifhery is car- ried to the greateft perfection in the Diocefe of Drontheim ; fo that the herrings annually exported from the north part of this Diocefe amount to feveral thoufands of lafts. The inhabitants of Nordland fubfift entirely by' Vol. I. A a fifhins. -, 7 8 INTRODUCTION T O fifhing. Here they particularly catch a fifh called Dorjch, and cod, of which flock-fifh is made: This kind of fifii is not falted ; but is fplit and dried in the air, and then fent away in large veffels to Bergen, which bring back in return, malt, hops, fait, meal, cloth, linen, iron, &c. The fifh caught every year at Karfund near Stavanger, and Tromfen in Nordland, are fold, at leaft, for a million of rix-dollars. From Nordland are alfo ex- ported the Raf and Reckling, fo well known in Upper and Lower Saxony, where the peafants in a manner live upon them. Thefe are parts of a fifh called Hclybutt, the former being the back fins cut out deep along with the fat; and the latter long flices of the fkin and fat cut longitudinally from the tail to the head. Both are fprinkled with a little fait, and afterwards dried in the air. From thence alfo train-oil, extracted by boiling from the blubber of whales which the inhabitants are very dextrous in driving afhore, is exported. There are many falmon-fifheries in the large rivers of Nor- way, fo that they likewife export great quantities of pickled and dried fal- mon. The moil considerable falmon-fifhery is near Mandal, in the river called Mandah-Eh, which is laid to abound in that kind of fifh beyond any river in Norway. §. ii. The Norwegians keep a great many cows, which in general are but final!, and yield no great quantity of milk. The horfes are ftrong, well made, and full of mettle. The woods alfo abound in deer and game. §. 12. Some parts of Norway contain fuch vaft quarries of marble, which is not inferior to the foreign, that they could fupply all Europe with it ; and there are even huge rocks and whole mountains confuting entirely of this fort of ftone. Lapis Lydius or Touch-ftone, alabafter, feveral fhinirrg ftones; which are a kind of Spar, called Katzenßlber ; chalk, lime-ftone, and ftucco-ftone ; flate, fand-ftone, mill-ftones, and Veeg-ßeen, particularly that fine fort of the laft called Talc-ftone, and another fpecics called Kloverjleen *, which may eafily be fplit, fawed, and cut, and in Guld- brandjdal, ferves for making pots, pans, kettles, &c. are dug up in this country; as are alfo the Loadftone, the Lapis Suillus or Swine-ftone, which emits a fetid fmell, A\beflos, which is found in Sundmoer, and fome fhin- ing Quartz, -j-, but not a fingle flint. In Syndßord, Jußedalen and other places is found a glittering writing fand, of which great quantities are ex- ported. Some parts of Norway afford cryftals, which are either found in the rivers and lakes, or fufpended in clufters on the mountains, where they emit a dazzling luftre when the fun fhines upon them. Some pieces of thefe * In the Memoires of the Royal Academy of Sciences at Paris for the year 1752, this fton c is called Lapis OUurius, and faid to be found only in Switzerland and Canada, but this is miftake. a ■f The Quartz or marcajjia is a kind of Pyrites or Fire-ftone, and is of near affinity to the Norway cryftal. It is not reducible to a calx in the fire, but becomes fluid, and is therefore ufed in the glafs-houfes. cryftals NORWAY. 179 cryftals weigh near five pounds, and are twelve inches long and feven in thicknefs. Here are alfo found, Marienglas, or Ruffian glafs ; Granite at Kongßerg; Amethyfts in Guldbrandßal, Oßerdal, and other places; Calce- donies of the bignefs of a hafel-nut in the iflands of Faroe; Agate of an extraordinary hardnefs ; with fine Jafper and feveral forts of figured (tones. In the country about Drontheim, and in feveral rivers of the Diocefes of Bergen and Chrißianßnd, are pearl-fifheries, the profits of which are ap- propriated to the Queen 5 and in the year 1750, the produce of them was as great as it has ever been known to be. §. 13. Lafily, what Norivay is mod famous for is its vaft fubterrane- ous trealures of metals and minerals. The Norway mines were firft worked in the reign of king Chrijlian III. and were confiderably improved under Cbriftian IV. Some gold of an extraordinary purity has indeed been found intermixed with the filver and copper ores ; but the charges of feparating and refining it proved too great to gain any thing by the procefs. The filver mines were formerly more numerous in this country than they are at prefent ; being reduced to two, namely, the Kongsberg mine, and that in the county of Jarlsberg. The copper ore dug up in fome of the mines alfo contains a mixture of filver. The copper mines lie chiefly in Nordenfelds, and are, at prefent, five in number. The profits arifing from the iron mines, of which there are fifteen in Norway, are faid to amount yearly to three or four hundred thoufand rix- dollars. The Jarlsberg lead is accounted harder and inferior in goodnefs to that of Kongsberg. There are lead mines at Eger not far from Kongsberg, and in the Vogtey of Sobers. Sulphur is alfo found among the Norivay mines ; but the melting and depurating of it is too chargeable to make it anfwer. Strata of allum have been found below Egeberget near Chrißiania in a flate quarry. A boiling-houfe has been built to feparate the allum from its fe- diment. Several parts of this country yield oker ; and Wardehuus is famous for a foflile of a moll beautiful blue or fky colour. There is a faline fpring near Frederickßadt ; but no fait has hitherto been made of it ; fo that it turns to no advantage. Salt is alfo found in the clefts of the rocks in the North-Sea. On Nordmoer in Hardanger, and feveral other places, efpecially in the Diocefe of Drontheim, the inhabitants boil it from the fea-water ; but as this caufes too great a confumption of wood, the laws of Norway forbid the boiling of any more than what is fufficient for their own private ufe. Not far from Tonsberg is a royal fait- work ; but this is fo far from anfwering the neceflary demand, that every year above fixty large /hip- loads of Spaniß and French fait are imported into Norway for the fiflieries and other occafions. A a 2 • §. 14. The i8o INTRODUCTION TO §. 14. The Norwegians were anciently fo turbulent and rebellious, that their kings were inceffantly engaged in factions and domeftic broils ; and many of the ancient fovereigns loft their lives in civil wars and inteftine commotions : But within thefe two or three centuries, efpecially fince this country has been annexed to the crown of Denmark, they have been more civilized; fo that no tumults or infurrections are heard of amongft them. Foreign nations are fond of having Norwegian mariners in their fervice, as they are a hardy, bold, and active people ; and it is computed that fome thoufands of them are thus emploved in different parts of Europe. Nor are they wanting in fkill and ingenuity for the mechanic arts and trades, though they never bring them to any high pitch of perfection. There is not a peafant in Norway, who, of his own head, cannot make many utenfils and artificial curiofities, for ufe and ornament. The Norwegians in general have a great inclination for commerce; efpecially the inhabitants of Bergen, who traffick confiderably with all the trading cities in Europe. As to their ge- nius for literature, though Norway has no univerfities or large libraries, yet is it not without learned men among its natives. Lutheranifm is the eftablifhed, and almoft the only religion in Norway, except in the province of Finmark, where are ftill no inconfiderable number of Pagans ; but no hardfhip, expence, or labour is fpared for the conven- tion of thofe unhappy people. The firft meafures for the Reformation of religion in Norway were taken in the year 1528, which was in a great meafure completed in 1537; and, in 1607, a new Hierarchy or Church- government was eftablifhed in this Kingdom. In every See there is a Bi- fhop ; and among thefe the Bifhop of Chrißiana is the principal, and takes place of all the reft. Under the Biihops are the Provofts, the Preachers, and the Chaplains or Curates, with the inferior church-officers. A parifh generally contains more churches than one, fo that the parochial incumbent has often the care of many of them. King Olav is faid to have been the firft legiflator in Norway, for that monarch inftituted the law called Graagaas, to punifh robbery, fraud, and afiaults. King Chrißian IV. publifhed a new Body of laws for Norway, which were in force till the reign of Chri- ßian V. who caufed a new Lowbuch or Digeft to be drawn up ; and thefe are the only laws now obferved in this kingdom. This Lowbuch, as it is called, was printed in quarto at Copenhagen in 1687; and the fubftance of it is taken from that of Denmark, with only a few alterations fuitable to the difference of circumftances in the two kingdoms. We may obferve farther with regard to the inhabitants of Norway, that fome of the peafants are filled Odelsbonder, who are free both in their per- fons, and eftates, and may difpofe of the latter as they pleafe*. They pay * The OflWj-right confifts in having, from time immemorial, the jfus Primogenitur a, and the Jus n-hiiiionii, or the right of Primogeniture and power of Redemption. No Odch-goods, or freehold can be alienated by fale, but may be redeemed by the Odds-mmm or right heir, to the fecond or third generation. no N R W A r. i r r no acknowledgments or tax but to the king onlyj and a Norwegian Odels- mann has the vanity to think himfelf a kind of petty nobleman. It is a reigning, and not altogether groundlels opinion among the Norwegian peafants that they are defcended from the ancient Nobility of Norway; This renders them in general of a more affuming deportment than the pea- fants of other countries. As for the clafs of Burghers, I have nothing par- ticular to obferve concerning thofe of Norway. Formerly there were many noble families in this kingdom ; but mod of them are now extinct, or degenerated into peafants ; fo that in the whole kingdom there are but the Barony of Rofendal in the Diocefe of Bergen j and the Counties or Earldoms of Ldrivigen and Jarlsberg. §. 15. In ancient times Norway was divided into a great number of little Lordfhips ; but to thefe the warlike king Harald Haarfager, who was de- fcended from the royal family of Sweden, put a period about the year of Chrift 875, and united them into one kingdom. And though not long afterwards Norway was annexed to Denmark, and paid tribute to that crown under Count Hako ; yet the Norwegians foon recovered their liberty and independency. In the year 1000, their liberties were again in great danger j but were preferved by the valour and conduct of Oluj the Saint: and though he loft the kingdom in 1019, being overpowered by the Da~ ?iiß prince Sneno; yet were the Danes again expelled in 1034, by his fon Magnus, and the kingdom enjoyed a feries of profperity for fome centuries. In the year 1 3 1 9, Magnus Smek, fon of the unfortunate Duke Erick, was king of Sweden and Norway; and his grandfon OluflW. king of Denmark, on the demife of his father Hagen, alio got poffeffion of the kingdom of Norway in 1380. At Oluf's death the direct royal line of Sweden and Nor- way became extinct ; and the male line in Denmark bein&j; alfo extinct at the fame time, Queen Margaret, daughter of king Waldemar III. and mo- ther to the abovementioned Ohif, was the next who had anv pretentions to the throne. Accordingly flie obtained the Crown by the election of the States. In the year 1388, Hagen Jonfen, a Nobleman of the blood-royal, made a folemn abdication of his right to the crown of Norway in favour of Queen Margaret, who farther prevailed on the States of that kingdom to declare Erick, Duke of Pomerania, her fifter's daughter's fon, heir to the kingdom of Norway. This great Princefs, in 1397, alfo united the three Northern Kingdoms by the famous Union of Cahnar. When the Oldenburg branch afcended the throne of Denmark, the Norwegians fhewed fome in- clination to fhake off the Danijh yoke ; however, they afterwards doled in with Denmark : But king John meeting with ill fuccefs in his expedi- tion againft Ditmarfch, the Norwegians revolted. Upon their lofing a battle near Opßo in the year 1502, and the barbarous executions of the greateft part of their Nobility, they were entirely quelled, and obliged to fwear allegiance to the king of Denmark and his defcendant ■-. In the year 3 1537» 1 82 INTRODUCTION TO 1537, king Chrißian III. held a general Diet at Copenhagen, wherein a famous decree was paffed, of which this was the moft remarkable article, namely, ' That Norway mould for ever be incorporated with Denmark as '* a province of that kingdom : for as the States of Norway had, both in ' the reign of Chrißian I. and king Frederick, engaged to be fubjedt to the ' fame Sovereign with Denmark; fo, confequently, every perfon who hap- 1 pened to be chofen king of Denmark was of courfe, and without further c formality, to be king of Norway.' From that time Norway loft its own Council of State, came to be confidered only as a province of Denmark, and as fuch to be governed by a Danißj Statthafter ; and as fome temper to the partiality (hewn to Denmark, king Chrißian IV. conferred on the Nobility of Norway the fame privileges with thofe of Denmark in the year 3646. But when defpotifm was introduced, No?-way and Denmark were again governed by the Sovereign himfelf, as two kingdoms united under one head ; and the High Court of Judicature was reftored in Norway. In this ftate it continued till the prefent Ober-hof-gericht, or General Supreme Court of Judicature for all Norway, was eredted. §. 16. King Chrißian III. appointed a Statthalter as Governor of Nor- way; then it was governed by Vice-Statthalters; and after that the office of Stattkalter was executed by a college or commiffion called Slotßov, or Court-law. This again was fuperfeded by king Frederick IV. who re- ftored the office of Statthalter. At prefent the chief officer in Norway is a Vice-Statthalter, who is alfo prefident of the Ober-hof-gericht or Supreme Court of Judicature at Chrtfliana. This Ober-hof-gericht is a general Tri- bunal for all Norway, to which there lies an appeal in all caufes from the inferior courts of the feveral Diocefes in this kingdom, which, however, may be removed from this Court to the Supreme Court at Copenhagen. Each of the four Stiftamts, i. e. Diocefes or General Governments, into which Norway is divided, has its Stiftamtfman, or General Governor ; and under thefe are the A?ntmanner, or Prefects. The office of both the Go- vernors and Prefects is the fame here as in Denmark. Next to the Pre- fects are the Stiftamts-Schierber, i. e. Receiver or Secretary, and the Vogte. The Vogte, like the Amtfverwalter in Denmark, are Collectors who levy the King's taxes, &c. on the proprietors of lands and the peafants; and pay them into the hands of the Stiftamts-Schreiber or Receiver. They alfo manage all profecutions and caufes relating to the crown in the Land- ßfcah, as they are called. Over the nine Laugflole, or Provincial Courts are fo many Laugmanner, which are a kind of provincial judges. Befides thefe, there are alfo Soren-Schreiber, or Amts-Schreiber, who may be called inferior judges; each having a power of deciding caufes within his Diftrict, in conjunction with eight affiftants. In the four chief cities of Norway, viz. Chrifliana, Chrißianfatid, Bergen, and Drontheim, are Prefidents ap- pointed by the King 3 and under thefe, as in all other towns, are Statt- vogte,' NORWAY. 183, vogte, or Town-Col Ie<£tors. Laftly, at the filver mine of Kongsberg there is a College called the Oberberg-amts-collegiam, with proper officers ; and another fuch College prelides over the mines at Nordenfield. There are alfb Collectors of the toll, Comptrollers over the farmers of the duties, and Commifiaries of provifions in Norway. §. 17. The military eftablifhment for Norway has been already taken, notice of in my account of Denmark. §. 18. Nature has divided the main land of Norway into two parts by the immenfe chain of mountains called Dofrefield and Langfield, which are defcribed in §. 6. This ridge of mountains feparates the northern and weftern parts which lie near the fea, from the fouthern and eaftern, or in- land parts. The high-lands which lie to the South and Eaft of thefe mountains are called Sondenfields, Norwegia Meridionalis, or Norwegia Cifalpina, i. e. Norway fouth of the mountains : Whereas that lying north of Dofrefield, and weft of Lang-field toward the fea, is called Nordenfields, Norwegia Septentrionalis or Norwegia 'Tranjalpina, i. e. Norway north of the mountains. According to the political divifion, Norway confifts of four Diocefes or General Governments. Two of thefe, namely, Chrifiiana and Chriflian- fand lie in the fouth, and the other two, viz. Bergen and Drontheim, in the north part of the kingdom. The ecclefiaftical divilion into four Stifts, or Biihopricks, is agreeable to the civil ; and as the General Governments or Stifts-amts are fubdivided into Amts, Fogteys or Lehne, i. e. Prefectures, Diftridls or Fiefs, fo the Stifts or Biihopricks are fubdivided into Provoft- fhips and Parifhes. The i8+ N R TV A T. The Diocese, ^General Government of CHRISTIANA or AGG E RHUUS. HIS is the largeft Diocefe in the fouth part of the kingdom, and, indeed, the principal and richeft in all Norway: It was formerly T called Hammerßift, and afterwards went by the name of Opßo. In this Government are the Prefectures of Aggerhuus, Frederickßadt, Schmaalhene, Bratsberg, Ri?igeri?ig, Hallingdahlen, Eger, and Bufcherud ; two feodal Counties, four Provincial Courts, fifteen Vogteys, and fourteen Provoft- fhips. The Vogteys, Lelms or Fiefs in this Diocefe are, I. Aggers-Herred, which comprifes three Diftricls with as many Courts of Judicature, namely, Afcher, Eaß and Wefl-Barum, and Ager ; with the following remarkable places. Chrißiana, the capital, and moil magnificent city of the kingdom. Here the Vice-Statthalter, the Governor of the Diocefe, and the Bifhop of Chrißiana refide ; and the General and Provincial high Courts of Judica- ture are held. This city is regularly built, of a considerable extent, and carries on a great trade. It has a workhoufe, and two fuburbs called Waterland and Peper-vigen; Opßo likewife belongs to this city. Through the firft runs a river which riles in Maridaleti. After Opßo had been burnt, king Chrißian IV. built this city on the weft fide of the bay, and clofe by the caftle of Aggerhuus ; (o that the guns of the fort command all the ftreets of the city. The fame monarch in 1636, raifed the fchool of Chri- ßiana to a Gymnafium or college ; and at the fame time fettled an endow- ment upon it for the maintenance of the tutors and twenty ftudents. But in the year 1653, it funk again to a fchool, and has remained fo ever fince. Opßo, or Aßo, lies on the eaft fide of the bay facing Aggerhuus caftle. It is more ancient than the latter; for it was built in the year 1060, by king Harald Haardraade, who refided here, as did alfo feveral of his fuccefiors. Opßo had formerly four churches. A fynod was held here in the year 1306; and in 1589, the nuptials of James VI. king of Scotland and the princefs Anne of Denmark were folemnized in this town. At the time of the Reformation the See of Hummer was removed to Opßo: But, in 1624, this city was totally confumed by fire, except the Bifhop's palace and a few other houfes, which were afterwards annexed to Chrißiana as a part of it, and Chrifliania.] NORWAY. 185 and called the Old 'town. In the King's mufeiim at Copenhagen, a medal druck by Nicholas Bifhop of Aßo in honour of Duke Philip, is ftill to be feen. Aggerhuus is an important fortification on the weft fide of the bay, near which, in a lower fituation, lies the city of Chrifliania. The time when this fort was firft built is unknown. In 13 10, it held out a fiege againft the Swedifl: army commanded by Duke Erick ; and in 1567 and 1717, it wa.s inverted by the Swedes a fecond and third time, but with no better fuccefs. Not far from the fort are a number of houfes or villages called Hovedtangen. Aggers is a very ancient church, which ftands about a quarter of a Nor- way mile North of Aggerhuus caflle. It is faid to have been built above feven hundred years ago, and is reckoned the oldeft church in this Dio- cefe. Mention is made of it in hiftory before the caftle of Aggerhuus was ere&ed. Barum is a very ancient and flourishing iron-mine in this Diftrici. II. Bragnas-Lehn, including Hurum, Rogen, Eger, Lier and Buf- kerud. There are in this Diftridt feveral iron-works, namely, at Eger, Modum, and Lier -, and alio a glafs-houfe : This Lehn or Fief is watered by the large river Drammen, which empties itfelf into the bay of Chrifliania. On the banks of the Drammen lie the towns of Bragnas and Stronifoe ; the former on the north, and the latter directly oppofite to it on the fouth fide of the river. Each of thefe towns has its re- fpective Statd-vogt, or Town-Magiftrate, and church -, yet they have but one Toll-place or Cultom-houle, which is called Drammenflolplatz, and brings in to the Crown as much as any Toll-houfe in Norway; for a great quantity of planks, beams, and iron, is brought from the adjacent country to this place for exportation. In the river Drammen lies the ifland of Langoe, fo famous for its marble quarries. To the Provoftfhip of Bragnas belong fixteen churches. III. The Fogfeys of Nummedal and Sandsvard including twenty churches, which are under the Provoftfhip of Kongsberg. Partly in thefe two Vogteys between the rivers Kobberberg and 'Jorndal lies Kongsberg, i. e. ' The King's Mine,' a flourishing mine-town, contain- ing no lefs than ten or eleven thoufand fouls, among which are a Danijlj and German congregation. A mint was fet up in this town fo early as the year 1686; and in 1689, the mine-college was eredted here. Kongsberg is famous for its filver-mines, the richeft in all Norway, which were difco- vered in the year 1623; upon which this town was immediately built, and peopled with German miners. In the year 1751, one-and-forty fliafts and twelve loads or veins were wrought in the four Reviers of this mine; and 3500 officers, artificers and labourers are ufually employed in it. The clear profits annually arifing from this mine cannot be exa&lv determined. Vol. I. B b The 1 86 NORWAY. [Chriftiania. The rich ore in thi< mine is found only in difperfedy?rtfta; for, if it lay in continued veins, it would not have its equal. Even pure lllver is alfo dug out of it j and in 1647, fome gold was found among the iilver, of which king Chfiflian IV. had the famous Brillen-Ducats coined, with this le- gend : l nie mir a domini, i. e. ' See the wonderful works of the Lord.' In the year 1697, a vein of gold was difcovered here; and ducats were coined with the produce of it, which on one fide had this infcription : Chrißiar.. F.D.G. Rex Dan. Norv. /". G. The legend on the reverfe were the fol- lowing words from "Job, ch. xxxvii. ver. 22. Von mittemacht kommt gold, i. e. ' Out of the North cometh gold.' Königsberg, Decemb. 1, 1697. IV. The county of Jarlsberg, formerly called Tonsberg-Lehn or Fief, confifts of arable land, and affords fine fifheries, and feveral mines ; parti- cularly a very profitable iilver mine difcovered in the year 1729, not far from Stromjoe : This county has its Court of Judicature. In the Provoft- fhip of yarhberg are twenty-five churches. "Jarlsberg is the moft remarkable place in the county, and the refidence of a branch of the family of the Counts of Wedel. On this fpot formerly flood Sam, which was anciently a nobleman's feat. It lies about a quarter of a Norway mile from Tonsberg, which is the moft ancient town in all Norway. It lies on an arm of Tonsberg bay ; and is fo called from the old northern word Ton, or Tun, which fignifies a parcel of houfes and buildings, and Berg a moun- tain of which there are feveral in the neighbourhood of it. It was a po- pulous town fo early as the time of king Harald Haarfager; fo that it is of eight hundred years ftanding at leaft. It was formerly much larger than it is at prefent, and contained nine churches : Whereas now it confifts of fcarce two hundred timber houfes, and has but two churches. It is governed by a Stadt-vogt or Town-Magiftrate, who prefides in the city and has the fuperin- tendency of the wharf and cuftom-houfe at Holmeßrand. This town carries on a good trade in furs and butter, for which the returns are made in grain, malt, &c. There are four keys or wharfs in the Diftrict of its cuftom- houfe. In the year 1259, a great part of this town was confumed by fire. And, in 1536, it was laid in afhes, together with its convents and churches, by the Swedes. From that time it has greatly declined ; though it obtained feveral new privileges in 1537, from king Frederick III. which were en- larged and ratified in 1596, and 1648. In the year 1673, kingChrißianV. conferred on the famous Peter Greifenfeld the Diftricf and town of Tonf- berg with the title of Count of the kingdom of Norway. In 173 9, king Chri- jlian VI. caufed a brick-kiln to be erected near the town ; and, on the peninfula of Valoe, about a Norway mile and a half from Tonsberg, the fame monarch eftablifhed a falt-work, from which feveral fhip loads of fait are yearly exported. V. The Chrifliania.] NORWAY. x 8 7 V. The county of Laurwigen, formerly called the Fief of Brunjlaven, belongs to Count Ferdinand Antony Daneßiold. It has its own jurifdiclion, and contains fine iron mines. In the Provoftfhip of Laurwig are fifteen churches. This Diftricf contains the following places of note. Laurwigen, or Larvigen, a fmall town and the chief trading place in this county. It ftands at the conflux of the Laven and the Laverdal or Lardal, which has its fource in Nummedal, and runs clofe by Kongsberg and Sandjvar. The river Faris rifes in the lake of Faris, and likewife di- rects its courfe to Larvigen. The greateft part of the wood ufed for fuel is brought hither by means of that river. The iron-works carried on in this place are the greateft and moft valuable in all Norway, and confifts properly of two mines, namely, one at Lauerwig and another at Nes. Stavern, or Frederick/warn, is a fmall town, with a fortification which defends the harbour, on that fide that lies towards Larvigen. In the year 1750, king Frederick V. ordered a dock-yard for building of gallies to be made here, and at the fame time called the place by the name of Frede- rick/warn. Sandefiord has a good harbour and a commodious Ladeplatz, or wharf. Laurkidlen is a cape or Promontory well known to fea-faring people. VI. Bradsberg-Lehn or Fief contains the Diftriä: of Tillemarken. The latter is divided into Upper and Lower Tillemarken, each of which is a Fogtey: But in ecclefiaftical matters Upper Tillemarken is under the juris- diction of the Bilhop otChrißianfand. The inhabitants of thefe parts have, for hardinefs and valour, been always accounted the moft warlike people in all Norway. The Provoftfhip of Lower Tillemarken and Bambel contains twentv-two churches. The moft remarkable places in this Diftridl, are, Krageroe, which is a little town with one of the moft frequented Lade- plätze or wharfs in this country. It has its own Stadt-vogt or Town-Ma- giftrate. Breedvig and Langefund. Thefe are two fea-ports each of which has a cuftom-houfe and a good wharf. Sheen, Schawia, is a town fituated on a river of the fame name, which flows from the North-lake in Tillemark. Not far from this town it forms a cataradt down an aperture in the rock, through which the water runs as in a long conduit. About half a Norway mile above the town is the Porjgrund. where there is a commodious wharf for the fhipping. Skieen is governed by a Stadt-vogt or Town-Magiftrate. In 1576, a great Affembly of the clergy and laity was held here for accommodating differences about tithes. This place formerly gave the name of Skiefyßel to Bradsberg-Lchn. A Provincial Court of Judicature is held in this town. B b 2 Bradf- 1 88 NORWAY. [Chriftiania. Bradsberg is a handfome feat, which ftands on a hill near Skieen, and gave its name to Bradsberg-Lchn. It was formerly the manfion of the Lord of the Fief. In this DiftricT: are feveral fine iron-works. Thefe are Fqßhmwerk, near Skieen, where the beft cannon are caft ; Bolvigfwerk on the river near Har- re/lad, about three quarters of a Norway mile from Skieen ; and that called Ülejbs or Haldenfwerk, about a Norway mile and a half from Skieen. VJI. Hallingdal and Ringerige. A river runs through Hallingdal which falls into the lake of Kroden, and from thence runs into the river Modutn, which afterwards joins with the Drammen. This DiftricT: includes feven churches, which, with Rifige- rige and Hadeland, make a Provoftfhip. Ringerige produces rye, peafe, barley, and oats, and is plentifully fupplied with fifli from the freih-water with which this Diftrict is almoft environed. Near Honefqjfen is a conflux of two rivers, one of which rifes in Hade/and, and the other runs through Odalen, and has its fource in Wal- ders. In this DiftricT: are the lakes of Holtsßord and Tyrrcßord ; and fix churches. VIII. Hadeland, Toten, and Walders. In Hadeland, which includes thirteen churches, is fome good arable land. It alfo carries on a confiderable trade in wood and tar. There are feveral frefh-water lakes abounding with fifh, namely, thofe of Rand, VeJ- ten, and Jaren, in this Diftrict. Here are alfo feveral Karaujche ponds *. Toten has ten churches, and is feparated from Hedemarken to the Eaft by the large lake of Miofin, which is twelve Norway miles -j- in length. It has good arable land which yields plenty of corn. Walders produces but little barley or oats ; and the inhabitants chiefly fubfift by grazing. The rivers Beina and Urulla, which run into the lake of Sperdillen are very convenient for exporting wood and timber. The lake of Klein Miofen or little Mlojen alfo lies in this Diftrict. Walders contains eighteen churches, and, with Toten, makes a Provoftfhip. IX. GULBRANDSDALEN. This Diftrict confifts of two large values j and both of them afford rich paftures. In the champaign parts of thefe extenfive vallies, which contain twenty-five churches, there is alfo fome good arable land. But in the deep, uneven and woody parts of them the corn is often greatly damaged by the cold ; efpecially in the parifh of Lajj'oe, which, however, has a very pro- fitable iron-work. At Faudal there is a rich copper-mine. During the winter feafon the inhabitants of this DiftricT: chiefly fubfift by carrying her- * The Karaujche is a kind of fifh refembling a carp, but is fmaller and fomething, broader : It is called in French Coraßn, and in Latin Coraceus. t Near feventy Englijh miles ; about ten Norway miles and-a-half being equal to a degree. rings, Chriftiania.] NORWAY. i8< rings, dried fifh and other goods from Drontheim and Romfdal, to Chri- ßiania, Bragnas, and Kongsberg, where they bring back corn and other neceflaries in return. Nuernberg affords mill-ftones and other quarries, for which they have a very good vent. The defile, or narrow pafs, near Breide, is famous for the defeat of the Scotch army under their General Sinclair, who was furprifed and cut to pieces there by the peafants. A pillar has been erecfed on the place, with an infcription to commemorate that vicfory. X. Hedemarken. The foil of this Diftridt is accounted the mod fertile in the whole king- dom of Norway. Befides the great quantity of grain it produces, it abounds in all kinds of fifh. Here is alfo feveral quarries of flate ; and on the ifland of Hovindjholm is found the Lapis Suillus or Swine-ftone, which emits a fetid fmell, like the excrements of that creature. Formerly near a bay on the eaft fide of the lake Miofen flood the ancient epifcopal See of Hummer, a large and ftately city confifting of three main ftreets of a confiderable length, and fifteen crofs-ftreets and lanes. It had alfo a fine cathedral ; and in the year 1300 was fo populous as to contain above eighteen hundred men fit to bear arms. But in 1350, it was reduced very low by an epide- mical difeafe ; and in 1,567 was laid in afhes by the Swedes, and never re- built. Part of its fituation is now occupied by a nobleman's feat. At the time of the Reformation, this city was made fubject to the See ofOpJIo. Hedemarken together with Oflerdalen or Eaft-Valley make a Provoftfhip of fix-and-twenty churches. XI. Solloer and Oesterdalen. The inhabitants of Oesterdalen, which borders on Sweden, fubfift chiefly by dealing in cattle ; the corn being often deftroyed there by the feverity of the froft. At Quickne in this DiftricT: there is a rich copper- mine, which is called Gottefgabe-berg, ösxtyov, or Gods-gift. It was dis- covered in 1635; but was not wrought to any great effecT till the year 1707. It affords a mineral-water called Cement-wajfer *, which precipi- tates copper. The frontiers of this DjftricT towards Sweden are well de- fended by natural fortifications, namely, the mountains of Chrißiansßeld which lie in the parifb of Elveram. In the DiftricT: of Solloer, which alfo borders on Sweden, the corn is often deftroyed by the feverity of the froft. But this misfortune is in fome meafure alleviated by the trade the inhabitants carry on in timber and marts. An iron-work has lately been fet up at Oudal. This country alio affords fome lead-mines. The frontiers hereabouts are defended by the fortrefs of Kongs-Winger, which ftands in the parifh of Winger. * This is a vitriolic water which carries with it a copper fediment, and tranfmutes iron into copper by permenating through the iron, corroding its particles, and leaving thofe of copper in their places ; fo that at length it becomes entirely copper. 4 Oeßer- i go NORWAY. [Chriftiania. Oeßerdalen and Hedemarken conftitnte a Provoftfhip ; and Solloer and Ober-Romerige make another. XII. Romerige, or Raumorige, is a large Diftridf, probably, to called from the river Räume. It is divided into Upper and Lower-Romerige ; each divifion making a Vogtey. The former together with Solloer, makes a Provoftfhip of twenty-fix churches ; but the latter is a Provoftfhip of itfelf, and contains fourteen churches. In Upper Romerige are fome iron-works, at Eidsvold and Hackedal. Lower- Romerige affords fome good arable land, and produces a great quantity of Danifli Cummin, which is carried to Chri- fliania and from thence exported to De?i?nark. Large floats of timber and feveral kinds of fifli are alfo exported from hence. In this diftrict lies Blackgierd, a ftrong fort built at the conflux of two rivers on the borders of Sweden, which, on that account, in war time, requires a numerous garrifon. XIII. Borresysesl, formerly called Wingulmark, derives its prefent name from the feat of Borre, which, in 1703, funk into the ground; for the waters of the cataracl: of Sarpen wafhed away all the earth from the foundation of the houfe ; and all that remains of it now is a pit full of fand and rubbifh. The foil in this Province is pretty fertile ; but as it is low and damp, oats thrive better than any other grain in it. Towards the fea, about Folio, the inhabitants are chiefly employed in carrying wood to the wharfs and cuftom-houfes, at Krogßadt, Drobach, Holen, Zoen, Hvidfieen, &c. by which thev get a comfortable fubfiftence. The rivers in this Diftrict are Wanfoe-fiord, Rodenas, Femefiord, and Store-elve. The laft falls into the Sarpen and forms one of the greateft waterfalls in Norway. The whole DiftricT: is divided into Upper and Lower-Borrefyjfel ; and thefe again are fubdivided into the following Vogteys. 1. Rachcflad, Heggen, and Froland. 2. Ide and Marcher. 3. Moofs, Oufoe, Thune, and Wemble. 4. Folloug, and Agger. BoRRESVbSEL, with regard to its. ecclefiaftical ftate, is divided into three Provoftfhips, namely, thofe of Upper, Middle, and Lower Borrefyjel ; the firft including eighteen churches, the fecond thirteen, and the third twenty- three churches. Upper-Borrefyjfel has no place worthy of notice. In Lower- Bomjyfl'el are the following towns, &c. namely, Mojs, a fmall town governed by a Sladtvogt. It carries on a confiderable trade ; but is moft remarkable for the two battles fought there in the year 1717, in which the Swedes were defeated, and loft their baggage and a large magazine which they had in this town. Not far from Mojs is a new iron- work and foundery, which turn out to good account. Bajhwe, a little town and a pafs on the frontiers of Sweden. It is well fortified both by Art and Nature Frede- Chriftiania.] NORWAY. 191 Frederickflald, a famous frontier-town towards Sweden. It is fituated at the mouth of the Tifledal, where it empties itfelf into the Spine/and. This town was formerly called Halden, when it was a mean place, under the jurifdiclion of the magiitracy of Frederick/ladt. However, it made a very gallant defence againft the Swedes in 1658, and alfo in 1659, by means of a fmall entrenchment or rampart. After that, it was Strengthened with additional fortifications; fo that in the year 1660, it fuftained a third vigorous fiege from the Swedes ; and Charles Gußavus is by fome thought, to have received here the wound of which he died. As a reward of the brave reliftance the inhabitants made, a charter with the privileges of a city, &c. were granted to this town in 1665. In the year 1686, Chri/lian V '. an- nexed the manor of Ous to Frederickfljald as a compenfation for the lots of its trade with Sweden. In 1716 and 17 18, the inhabitants again ligna- lized themfelves by making a vigorous defence againft the attacks of the Swedes: And here it was that, on the eleventh of December, 171 8, the warlike Charles XII. of Sweden was fhot in the trenches. King Frede- rick IV. ordered a pyramid twenty feet in height to be erected on the fpot where that Hero fell. The fides of it were decorated with military trophies, with the arms of Sweden and the King's name; and the top was furmounted by a gilt crown. On four marble tables at the bafe were one Latin, and two Danifl) infcriptions in golden letters : But king Cbriflian VI. in comple- ment to Sweden, ordered this pyramid to be taken down. The town itfelf is not a place of any great ftrength ; but on a high rock oppofite to it ftands the ftrong fortrefs of Frederickflein, the foundation of which was laid in the year 1661. Befides this there are other fmaller forts near the town, namely, Storre-Taarn, and Oever-Biergef, which have their refpective Governors who are under the Commandant of Frederickflein. Guldenlowe, is fuch an- other fmall fort, of which Charles XII. of Sweden had made himfelf maf- ter, when he was fhot with a mufket-ball from Oever-Bierget, in the trenches between the former and Frederickflein. Thefe three fmall forts were built in the year 1682. Frederickfl:ald now carries on a very consi- derable trade, and is governed by a Stadt-vogt or Town-Magiftrate. In 1667, 1676, 1703, and 1716, thistown was deftroyed by fire. Frederickfladt, a town built in 1 567 by Frederick II. who granted it a very favourable charter ; and the provincial court was at the fame time removed hither from Borre. It is governed by a Stadt-vogt or Town-Magiftrate ; and its chief trade is in timber, but this is not very confiderable. Frederick- fladt was regularly fortified in the year 1665 by Frederick III. and fince that time new works have been added to it ; fo that for its ftrength by na- ture and art, and its convenient fituation for a ready intercourfe by fea with Denmark, it is the moft important fortification in Norway. Though this town is very ftrong, it has the following forts for a further defence. 4 König- 192 NORWAY. [Chriftiania. Kotiigßein fort, which ftands on the land fide. Jfegram, which {lands on the ifland of Krageroe, about a quarter of a Norway mile from the town. Aggerhoe, which is erected on an ifland, towards the fea. Thefe forts have their particular Commandants, who are fubordinate to the Governor of Frederickjladt. Sarpsburg lies about a Norway mile from the fea, near the river or water- fall of Sarpen. It was anciently a city, being built in 10 16 by king Oluf the Pious or Haroldfon, as a defence to the kingdom againft the incurfions of the Swedes > but in 1 567, the Swediß army laid it in afhes. Not far from this place is the great cafcade or waterfall of Sarpen, which king Harald Gi lie, in 11 34, firft ufed for the execution of criminals, by throwing a vaflal of king Magnus down this dreadful catarad:. There is an eminence called Konigfiiugel clofe by the cafcade, which is fo called becaufe three kings, who were father, fon, and grandfon, once flood upon it to view this furprifing cataract : It drives feventeen mills, and the noife of it is plainly heard at the diflance of four or five Norway miles from the place. Near Store-Ehe, which falls into the Sarpen and caufes this waterfall, ftands the famous old caftle of Waldiflxlm, now called Wallanfoi, which was formerly a very flrong fortrefs. Note. All that tracT: of land which lies eaft of the Gulf of Folio, Opßo, or Chrifliania, and is about ten Norway miles in length, formerly included Eaft-Folden or Folk, which has been already defcribed, and Wigen or Ba- huus-Lehn which belongs to Sweden. That part of it that lies weft of the Gulf, was called Wefi-Folden, including Tonsbergs-Lehn, of which an account has been given above. The Chriftianfand.] NORWAY, ! 93 7?je Diocese, or General Government of C H R ISTIANSAND. 'T~ s H E ancient name of this province was Stavanger. At prefent itcon- -*- tains four Amts or Prefectures, five Vogteys, and two Provincial Courts. With regard to ecclefiaftical affairs, it is divided into ten Provoftfhips, among which that of Upper-'Tillemark is one, though in fecular matters that Di- ftrict belongs to the Diocefe or Government of Chrifliania. I proceed to give a particular account of every Diftrid in the Diocefe oiChriftianjand. I. Nidenas-Lehn, fo called from the Manor of Nidenas on the banks of the river Nid, is the largeft Diftridt in Agdejiden. The foil is level and fit for agriculture. Here are fine woods of oak, and good fisheries of mack- arel and falmon ; particularly in the river Nid, which, near Oejeßadt- kirche, has a high-water fall, acrofs which is a bridge called Strugebroe, made of long beams of timber from one rock to another. The river con- tinues its courfe from this cafcade eaftward about a Norway mile as far as Amdal, a fmall town, fituated on a rock in the middle of the river Nid, which is remarkable for a good wharf, or lading place, as it is called. Moft of the houfes ftand on the acclivity of the rock, and others are built on piles in the water. The ftreets are nothing but bridges of boats, by means of which the inhabitants go from houfe to houle. Here is a fuffi- cient depth of water for the largeft fhips to lie along fide of the bridges. The church ftands high and almoft on the fummit of the rock, to which there is an afcent from the houfes by a great number of fteps hewn in the rock. The inhabitants make a good ufe of the commodious fituation of this town for trade ; for they employ many fhips, and deal largely in tim- ber. Arndal is under the fame Stadt-vogtey or Magiftracy as Rifocr-, and has not long enjoyed the privileges of a town. At the diftance of two Nor way miles from hence is the iron-work of Bariboe, or Baafcland, which is one of the moft ancient in the whole kingdom, and in a pretty good condition. In this Diftricl are alfo feveral iron-mines. About four Nor- way miles from hence, and two miles weft of Giemas, lies Rii/oer or Eaft-Riifocr, is a fmall town, with a commodious wharf or lading-place, and confequently not without fome trade. It is under the ju- rifdiction of the Vogtey of Arndal. I'romoe is the moft remarkable of the iflands belonging to this Diftricl, by reafon of its ftately church, which is built with ftone, and ferves as a- land- mark at fea. The failors alfo diftinguifh this country by three high rocks', Vol. I. C c which 194 NORWAY. [Chriftianfand. which lie diredly over-againft this ifland at the diflance of fix Norway miles up the country, and are called Trimlinger. The new iron-works of Egerlanä, in the parifh of Gierreftadt, are alfo in this Diftricl. The Provoftfhip of Nidenas includes eight parifhes. II. Raabygdelaget is reckoned a fertile country for grain; hut it too often happens, that the corn is deftroyed by the feverity of the weather. In this DiftricT: are plenty of wild beafts, as flags, rain-deer, otters, heavers, &c. Its rivers abound with falmon and perch ; and its trees pro- duce a great quantity of tar. The large river Otterae on the weft-fide of Byglefield forms a great lake called Bygland, and in the parifh of Efje pre- cipitates itfelf at the waterfall of Fennie. The Provoftfhip of Raabygdelaget includes four parifhes. III. Manuals and Lister-Lehn. Mandals-Lehn or Fief, which is alfo called Midfyffel or the Middle Difiriä, is twelve Norway miles in length, and is the moft remarkable Vogtey in all Norway for falmon fifheries. The largeft falmon are taken in the river Otterae ; but the melting of the fnow retards the feafon for fifhing till the end of July, and a great waterfall hinders the falmon from coming above one Norway mile up the river. There is alfo a falmon fifhery in the river c for r uedal; but the moft profitable fifhery is in the river Mandat. The latter ifiues from an inland frefh-water lake called Oere, which is one Norway mile in length; and feveral rivers that run on the weft fide of the mountains discharge themfelves into it. Near Bielland a very uncommon method of fifhing is pra&ifed, about half a Norway mile north of a bridge laid acrofs the river from one rock to another, thirty-fix feet above the furface of the water ; where the fifhermen go under the cataract, which forms an arch over their heads, to hunt the falmon out of a hole in the rock, at the ex- treme hazard of their lives. In each of the above-mentioned rivers, namely, Torvedal and Mandal is alfo a rich pearl-fifhery. The Provoftfhip of Mandal confifts of five parifhes, to which belong twenty-one churches. The moft remarkable places in this Diftricl are the following. Fleckeroe, an ifland which lies about two leagues fouth of Otternas., and js a Norway mile and a half in circumference. Between this ifland and the main land is a celebrated harbour, into which the fame wind that carries a veffel in on one fide, proves contrary on the other. For the defence of fuch an excellent harbour a fort was built on Fleckeroe, in the year 1556; but this falling to decay King Chrijtian IV. built another on the little ifland of Otteroe in 1635, and called it Chrifiianfoe. Some time after the fortrefs of Fleckeroer or Frederichß:olm, which is the chief defence of the harbour, was erecled. Here the largeft fleet may lie fecure both from Chriftianfand.] NORWAY. 195 from ftorms and the infults of enemies. About a league from hence, near the fortified ifland of Otteroe, on the continent, lies Chriftianfand, the capital of this Diocefe, and the refidence of the Bifhop and the General-Governor ; where there is alfo a Cathedral or Epilcopal fchool. This city was built by king Chriftian IV. between the years 1 64 1 and 1643 ; and is fo called from the name of its founder and the great Sande or Strand on which it is built. The plan of it is fquare, and the ftreets are broad, regular, and well built. This city is governed by a Stadt-vogt or Town-Magiflxate. Its fituation is very commodious ; three fides of it be- ing furrounded either with freih or falt-water, and on the fourth it has a communication with fine meadows and the mountains. Some trade is car- ried on here in timber. In 1734, the church, with the greateft part of this city, was deftroyed by fire. Mandal, a fmall place of fome trade flands on the river of the fame name. It has a cuftom-houfe and is a parilh of itfelf, which is called by the fame name. The Ladeplatze or wharfs of Ripervig, Randoefund, Hardmarkersficld which lies weft of Chrißiänfand, and Trvsfiorden near Taanaas are in this Diftricl. Lister-Lehn is the moft fouthern Diftricl in all Norway. It is a good corn country, aud very conveniently fituated for fifhing. This Diftricl: is feparated from Dalene by the rapid river Syre ; which rifes in Lang field, runs along Syredal into the large lake of Lande, and afterwards precipitates itfelf from a high rock into the fea with amazing impetuofity. In the pa- rifh of Quinefdal, fo called from the river $ume, near the cataract of Rafos where the water iflues from the apertures in the rocks as through fo many pipes, is a profitable falmon-fifhery; but the method of fifhing there is very dangerous. Lißerlehn is about a Norway mile and a quarter in length, and about the fame breadth. The coaft is extremely dangerous to naviga- tors, as it lies low, has no harbour, or anchoring place, and is furrounded with hidden rocks and (helves. Betwixt Lifter and Lindenas, about a quar- ter of a Norway mile from the Cape or Naze, is the famous harbour of Selloe, where king Harald Haardraade aftembled a fleet of two hundred fhips in order to go on his expedition to England. Cape Lindenas joins to the main land of Lifter-Lehn by a very narrow ifthmus called Spanger- Eid; for the word Eid fignifies an ifthmus. The inhabitants have formerly attempted, for the conveniency of navigation, to cut a channel through this fmall neck of land, and to build a town there. But this fcheme was found impracticable by reafon of the rocks that obftructed the execution of it.- The Cape projects into the fea about a Norway mile towards the South-Weft, and is about half a mile broad. It is a high, barren, rocky promontory; however, it has twelve peafants houfes on it. This Cape is commonly called the Neufs or Naze in the Charts. C c 2 The i 9 6 N R IV A T. [Cliriftianfand. The Provoftfhlp of Lißcr confifts of five parishes, to which belong one- and-twenty churches. IV. Jederen and Dai.ene. Jederen is ieven Norway miles in length, and produces a good deal of corn ; but the coaft is very dangerous to navigators, a ridge of rocks con- cealed under the water running for a Norway mile into the fea towards the North-Weft. There are fine fisheries of oyfters and lobfters in this DiftricT ; and a fine falmon fifhery near Egerfund, betwixt Egerce and the main land. The iflands of Rot, Tier, and Haaßeen, which lie North- North-Weft from hence, belong to this DiftricT:. In thefe iflands the bul- locks lie in the open air both winter and fummer. The Provoftfhip of "jederen comprehends five parifb.es j and that of Da- lene the fame number. In jederen alfo lies Stavanger, an ancient town, fituated on the little bay of Buckne, or Tun- gefiord. It is governed by a Stadvogt or Town-Magiftrate ; but was for- merly much larger and more populous than it is at prefent. The cathe- dral, which was built in the year 1013, is the fineft in all Norway, except- ing that of Drontheim. But the town being burnt in 1686, king Chri- Jtian V. removed the epifcopal See from hence to Chriftianja7id. There are but three churches in the Provoftihip of Stavanger. V. Ryfylket, or Fiorderne, extends on each fide of the large bay of Stavanger, which runs a great way into the land towards the Eaft : This bay, at the entrance, is but two Norway miles in breadth. Udßeenklojhr lies about a Norway mile and a half to the north-weft of Stavanger, and was at firft a royal palace, and after that converted into a convent ; but is now a Nobleman's feat. The iflands of Rendefoe and Hvitingfoe in this DiftricT: defervc notice, as they occur in ancient hiftory. The large ifland of Karmen, and its well known Cape of Aiigvaldfnas are ftill more remarkable. On the latter ftands the fine feat of the fame name. About fix leagues weft of Karme?i lies the ifland of Udfire. The Provoftihip of Ryfylket includes feven parifhes ; and the Provoftfhip of Karmejund, to which a great part of the ifland of Karmen belongs, con- fifts only of three parifhes. The Bergen.] NORWAY. 197 The Diocese, or General Government of BERGEN. f ~T S{ HIS Diocefe is from forty to fifty Norway miles in length, and con- ■*- tains only the lingle Prefecture of Bergenhuus, including feven Vogteys, and the fame number of Provoftfhips. The Diocefe of Bergen is very populous, and is remarkable for having feven marble quarries, which. are mil wrought. The Vogteys in this Government are as follow. I. Haardanger. The foil of this Diftricl is fterile and poor; and it derives its chief advantage from the mountains, which afford excellent quarries of millftones, and another kind of ftone which is uled inftead of iron plates, for baking the flat cakes mentioned above. Here is alfo dug up a whitifh grey marble and Weich ßei?z, or Lapis ollarius, of which pots and chamber-ftoves are made. To the Eaft of the gulf of Haardanger, in £>uind-herred, there is a ridge of mountains called Fuglefang, i. e. ' The Bird-catch', which is one of the higheft in all Norway, and is always co- vered with fnow. There are feveral deep cavities and clefts in this moun- tain, which are frequented by birds of feveral kinds. In this Vogtey are four Courts of Judicature ; and it&,.Provoftfhip includes three parifhes, to which nine churches belong. II. Sundhord-Lehn. This Diftricl has eleven Courts of Judicature ;. and nine parifhes, with thirtv-three churches, are included in its Provoft- fhip. To this Diftricl; alfo belongs the ifland of Storoe, i. e. ' Great Ifland,' where Harald Haarfager the firft fovereign of all Norway refided in his old age, in the palace of Fidje. Clofe by Storoe lies the ifland of Monfter, winch is commonly pronounced Moßer or Mogfier, where king OlufTryggeJon, in the year 997, built the firft Chriftian church in Norway. On the ifland of Halfnoe, in this Diftricl:, formerly flood a convent called Lyfe-kloßer, or Lucida •vallis, founded in the year 1 144, for a Fraternity of Ciftertian monks ; the eftates that belonged to it are now converted into a Fief. III. Nordhord-Lehn, together with Sundhord-Lehn conftitute a tract of land called Hordeland. This Diftricl produces but little corn ; for the weftern parts of it chiefly confift of iflands and rocks, where moft of the inhabitants fubfift by fifhing, efpecially the herring fifhery. It has thirteen Courts of Judicature ; and its Provoftfhip includes eight parifhes,. and twenty-nine churches. But what renders this Diftricl moft remark- able, and is at the fame time fo advantageous to it, is 3 Bergen, 198 NORWAY. [Bergen. Bergen, in Latin Berga, formerly called Biorginn, or Biorgvin, the largeft city, and a place of the greateft trade in all the kingdom of Norway. It lies on the continent in the middle of a valley, and is built, in the form of a femicircle or horfhoe, on the fides of a bay which the inhabitants call Waag. Nature has fo well fortified it towards the land by lofty moun- tains, of which there are feven remarkably high, that the paffes or defiles between them are quite impracticable to an enemy. Towards the fea the harbour is extremely well defended by feveral fortifications, as the Engliß fleet, which attempted in 1665 to carry off fome Dutch Eaß-India mips that had put in there for fafety, found by experience. The harbour is alfo defended on the north-fide by the fort of Chrißianjholm, built in 1641 by Chrijiian IV. together with Rothouven, S-vereJborg, Commun, and the caftle. On the left fide fome batteries are erected on Nomas, and Frede- rick/berg , and the latter now paffes for one of the beft fortifications be- longing to Bergen. Befides thefe works a blockhoufe was built on Syndnas in 1 646 ; and in the year 1 666, the extraordinary round fort of Chriflianf- berg was erected. AH the churches, public edifices, and moft of the houies along the ftrand are built with ftone. Bergen formerly contained thirty churches and convents ; but at prefent it has only four parifh churches, three of which are Dani/Jj, and one German, with a church in the large hofpital of St. Jurge?is, and another fmall church or chapel in St. jfames's churchyard. The caftle of Bergen is a grand ftructure. The large cathedral-fchool in this city was founded in the year 1554 by Bifhop Petrus, who alfo endowed it; and by the liberality of king Frederick II. and others, twelve fcholars are maintained and educated in it. The Navigation-fchool, founded here, formerly flourifhed greatly, but is now fallen into decay. The Seminarium Fredericianum alfo deferves notice ; which is an excellent foundation, where Natural and Moral Philofophy, the Mathematics, Hi- ftoiy, together with the Latin and French languages are taught by Mafters who are properly qualified in thofe branches of Literature. This city car- ries on a large trade in all kinds of fifh, tallow, hides, and timber. All thefe commodities are brought from the northern parts of the kingdom, called the Nordlands to Bergen, and from thence exported. The returns are moftly made in corn and foreign commodities. The Hanfe-toions in the reign of king Erick of Pomerania had a Factory in this city, which Chri- ßopher of Bavaria, in 14455 ratified by a royal Charter; fo that the year 1445 may be looked upon as the proper date when the Factory was erected in Bergen, in the privileges of which the cities of Lübeck, Ham- burg, Roßock, Dementer, Embden, and Bremen had the greateft fhare. But at prefent only Bremen, Lübeck, and Hamburg are concerned in the little bufinefs that is tranfacted here. In the feventecn edifices, with ware- houfes, &c. belonging to the Hanß-towns, there are forty-two warehoufes, appropriated to the citizens of Bergen, and but feventeen for the ufe of the Factory, Bergen.] NORWAY. 199 Factory, of which the Lübeckers pofTefs only one, the Hamburgers one, and the Bremeners fifteen. Thefe towns have eight Skiotnbigs-Jluben or public halls at Bergen where the merchants meet to tranfact bufinefs, and fometimes have entertainments. Bergen had formerly the privilege of coining, and enjoyed it longer than any other town in Norway, namely, till the year 1575. In the royal Mufeum at Copenhagen is to be feen a medal ftruck here in the time of king Erick, who was a mortal enemy to the clergy. This city was founded in the year 1069, or 1070. Synods were held here in 1156, 1345, and 1435. It fuffered extremely by fire in the year 1248, when eleven parifh churches were entirely confumed. The like misfortune befel it in 1472, 1623, 1640, and 1702. The num- ber of its inhabitants were computed at 30,000 in the year 1756. Bergen is governed by a Stadt-vogt and other magiftrates. King Harald Haarfager fometimes refided at Solheim, and fometimes at Alrick/lad, now called Aarjlad, in this Diftrict. On the ifland of Guloe a celebrated Court of Judicature called Gulatings- laug-floel was formerly held, which was removed from thence to Bergen. However, there is ftill a Provincial Court or Tinglaag held on that ifland. Between the iflands and the continent runs a very dangerous Sund or Strait called Kiilßrommen, through which all the fhips that fail to or from Nordland are obliged to pafs. The current in thefe Straits is different from mod other Straits ; for it ebbs here when the tide flows, and flows when it ebbs, which caufes dangerous whirlpools j fo that the fhips bound to Nord- land generally wait in fome harbour near thefe Straits till it is high-water, which is looked upon as the fafeft time for pafling through the Kiilßrommen. IV. Sogn or Sygna-filke is fixteeen Norway miles in length, and is reckoned a plentiful country, abounding with grain, cattle, filh, forefls, fawing-mills. and other conveniencies of art and nature. Formerly a town called Kopanger flood in this Diftricl; but about the year 1 178, it was facked and burnt by king Svcrre's army. In the parifh of Leyrdal is a copper-work called Aar-Dalfwerk or Sent- Dal/werk y which king Frederick IV. purchafed for 36,000 rix-dollars ; but it has not been wrought for feveral years. At Leerdalfoe a yearly fair is held on Michaelmas- day-, the peafants who live in Walder s venture to travel over the frightful rockv mountains of Gal- drene to come to this fair. Sogn was formerly divided into two Vogteys or Diftridts, called Tttre-Sogn, in which were nine Courts of Judicature, and Indre-Sogn with feven. The Provoftfhip of Sogn contains nine parifhes and thiriy-fix churches. V. Sundfiord. In this Diftricl are fix Courts of Judicature ; and its Provoftfhip includes fix parifhes and nineteen churches. VI. Nordfiord. This Vogtey has feven Courts of Judicature ; and the Provoftfhip of Nordfiord con lifts of four pariflies, and eighteen churches. On 20o NORWAY. [Bergen. On the ifland of Seihe in this DiftricT: the remains of Sunneva were found by king OlufTryggeJon, who built a church and convent in honour ofthat faint. It is faid me was an Iriß princefs, and that, towards the clofe of the fourth century, being driven by ftrefs of weather on the coaft of Nor- way, which was then involved in the darknefs of Paganifm, (lie and her attendants laboured by their preaching to convert the Norwegians to Chri- ftianity. It is added, that the princefs, who was not inured to hardfhips, foon after ended her days in a cavern of a rock. In the year 1170, her pretended remains were carried with great folemnity from this ifland to Bergen, and depolited in the cathedral, where, for a long time, they con- tinued to be worfhiped by the fuperftitious papifls. Note. The Vogteys or Diftridls of Sund and Nord-fiord are both called Fir* difylke or Fiordi-Jylke. They confift of a rocky barren foil which produces but little corn, except in a fpot of land on the eaft fide of the bay. In the jflands belonging to thefe Diftridls the inhabitants live moftly by fiihing. Thefe Vogteys are but little known, as they have neither a public road, nor a good harbour for fhipping. Between Nordfiord and Sundmor, a peninfula which is called Statt runs a good way into the fea towards the Weft ; and the dangerous fea by which it is waihed is well known to marinprs by the name of Stats-Hav. VII. Sundmor, or Sondre-more, extends as far as Romfdal, and for- merly belonged to the Biihoprick of Drontheim. The inhabitants of this Diftridl moftly fubfift by the fifheries. It contains twelve courts of Judi- cature, from which an appeal lies to the Superior Court called Laugßuhl at Bergen. The Provoftlhip of Sundmor includes four parishes and twenty-two churches. It is faid that a piece of hazel-wood being ftuck into the morafs of Bior- kedal in this DiftricT: will, in about three years, be tranfmutcd into a whet- ftone, while that part that is above the fwampy ground remains unchanged. However, alder-trees are faid to grow in this morafs without undergoing any change. But Bifhop Pontoppidan in his excellent Natural Hiftory of Norway afierts, that there is no petrefying water in this morafs ; but in- forms us that on the fide of it there is a piece of Amianthus or Aßeßos rock, which being diviiible into long pliant threads, like flax, and being more like wood than ftone, has been given out for petrefied wood ; and brought the neighbouring morafs to an undeferved reputation. A town called Corgund formerly ftood in this Vogtey, which now lies in ruins. Vallerhou in Swidmore is, in all refpedts, an excellent harbour. 7h Brontheim.] W X jfT tf #7 aoi T&eDi o c e s e, or G e n e r alG o ve^r.W m en t o/" I ■ Z> Ä O N T H E I M . . ^pHE Diocefe of Drontheim, in Danifh Trondhiem, is the moil nor- ■*■ ther'n Province in Norway, and is above an hundred and fifty Norway miles in length. It borders on Sweden and Rujia, and is feparated from the former by the long chain of mountains called Kokn, and from the lat- ter partly by the Nord-feljen or North-rocks. That ridge of hills called Kokn,. of which mention has already been made in the Introduction to Norway, §. 6, begins near Waranger, and Indiager bay in Fi?imark y and proceeds iouthward as far as Roraas and the lake of Femmund,- that is, twenty Norway miles on this fide of the city of Drontkeim , confequently its whole length is little fhort of an hundred and fifty Norway miles. The Diocefe of Drontheim contains three large Amts or Prefectures, which are as follows. I. Drontheim. This Prefecture alfo includes v thofe of Romfdal .and Nordmor, each of which has a particular Prefect. I mail therefore, in the firfl place, give an account of The Prefectures of RomsdäE and Nor dmor, which confifl of two Vogteys of the fame names with their refpec-tive Prefectures. -■-■ i . The Vogtey of Romfdal has eight Courts of Judicature from which ah appeal lies to the Superior Court of Drontheim. Its Provoflfhip contains fix parishes,' and twenty-one churches. This Diftaict produces more oats than wheat ; and the bed: arable land in it lies near the bays, or in the values : But -the inhabitants of the fea-coafls apply theittfelves moflly.to fifhirig. In the fourteenth century there flood in this Vogtey a confiderable town called Wedoe, of which all that remains at prefent is the church of-St. Peter in the parffh MÄWedoes On Ejen, near Boe, a numerous army '■%? ^Swedes was'de- feated in the year 1612. The only remarkable place in> this- Vogtey is ■ ,j - Molk\ which obtained its charter of privileges in 1742;. and is governed by a Stadt-vogt or Town-Magiflrate. Timber and tar are exported from hence, and the return is chiefly made in-cOrn. •' •• ./ •, ■: ' ;■}> ■£'.' Thfr Vogtey of Nordmor is divided into eight jurifdiclions, -from which 'ah feppeal lies "to the Superior Court at Drohthciw. This Pfovoflfhip corft- ' prizes- =feve-n-pa'rifiies; to which belong twenty-one churches* and three chapels. * Inthe pärifh of Sund, barley and oats ripen info fhort a* fpace of lime-, that -they are- reaped in nine weeks after the grain-is foWn; which is sewing to- the.' mountains contracting, and reverberating the fun-beams -in - -Vol. I. D d the 2 o2 NORWAY. [Drontheim. the narrow vallies in this Diftrict. LiUe-Fofen, i. e. ' Little-Fofen,' obtained its charter in the year 1742, with the name of Chrifiianjund, and has a very commodious harbour and a good Lade- platz or wharf; on which account a great quantity of timber from the ad- jacent country is brought to this town in order to be exported. It is go- verned by a Stadt-vogi or Town-Magiftrate. Bremfnas is remakable on account of a cryftal urn with a gold rim, and full of afhes, which was found in that place: It is now depolited in the royal Mufeum at Copenhagen. The Prefecture of Drontheim, exclufive of thefe, comprehends the following Vogteys or Diftricls. 1 . The Vogtey of Fofen, fo called from the iiland of Store-Fojen, i. e. ' Great-Fofen,' confifts chiefly of illands. One of thefe, namely, the ifland of Hitteroe is eight Norway miles in circumference, and its inhabi- tants chiefly fubfift by fiihing. Here is a fine falmon-fiihery near Oereland, and at Biugnen are caught the Drontheim herrings which are fo much ad- mired. About Slgdenas, where Drontheim bay runs a good way into the land, the foil produces plenty of grain. This Diftiidt is divided into eight iurifdiclions, and the Provoftfhip of Storc-Fofen contains fix pariihes and lixteen churches. 2. The Vogteys of Oerkedakn and Guldalen. The former was anciently called Oerkedola-fylke, from the river Oerkeln which iflues from Oerkelfoe lake near Dof re-field. In this Diftrict are four Courts of Judicature, and the rich copper-mine called Lukkem or Meldah-iverck. The Vogtey of Gu- ledal, Guldalen, or Gauldola-fylke, is fo called from the river Gäulen or Gulen, which rifes near Skars-field, and, after a courfe of twenty Norway miles, falls into the fea about a Norway mile weft of Drontheim. Near the mine-town of Roraas is a large and rich copper-mine difcovered in the year 1644. In this Vogtey are alio four Courts of Judicature. 3. The Vogtey of Strinden extends from Drontheim bay eaftward as far as Jemtefield near Tidalen. It contains eight Jurifdictions. There is a cop- per-mine at Selboe in this Diftrict. Note. The Vogteys of Oerkedalen, Guledalen, and Strinden produce fome grain; but the corn is frequently deftroyed by the froft. They conftitute the Provoftfhip of Dalenes, to which belong ten parifhes and twenty-nine churches. In the Vogtey of Strinden lies the city of Drontheim, on the river Nid, which rifes in Tidalen and runs through Selboe lake, from which it directs its courfe northward, and runs near the city, fo as almoft to environ it. Drontheim was at firft called Nideroos, or the mouth or outlet of the river Nid, from which its Latin name NMrofia is derived. It owes its prefent name to the neighbouring country which was formerly fo called ; and its inhabitants were termed Tronder. King Oluf Dronthcim.] NORWAY. Ohtf Tryggcfon was the founder of this city, which for fome time was the refidence of the Norwegern Kings, and afterwards of the Archbifhops. It was erected into an archiepifcopal See in the year 1 152, but fuppreffed at the Reformation. Formerly there were ten churches and five convents in this city; whereas at prefent it has but two churches, befides that at the hofpital. The Cathedral, which is a fuperb edifice built with marble, was all burnt down in 1530, excepting the choir, which is rather too large for the prefent church, and is ftill called the Cathedral. This city is the refidence of the General-Governor and the Bifhop ; and is governed by a Stad-'tiogt and other magistrates. Here are, a fine cathedral-fchool, a Seminary of Miffionaries, an orphan-houfe, a workhoufe, a houfe of correction, and an hofpital. A considerable trade in timber, fifh, tallow, and copper which is brought from the copper-works of Meldal and Romas, is carried on in this city. A fugar-houfe is alfo lately erected at Drontheim. The city is de- fended by fort Chri/iianßein, erected in 1680, fome fortifications on the land-fide, and by Munkholmen\ of which we fhall prefently give a particu- lar account. In the years 1522, 1650 and 1681, Dronthcim was greatly damaged by fire. In the month of July 1685, king Chriftiän V. fpent fome days in this town, and flipped at midnight without lights; the twilights being fo luminous as to need no candles. In the Mufeum at Co- penhagen there is an old medal, ftruck here by order of king Sverre, to be feen. On the eaft fide of the city lies the iuburb of Bakkclandet, with its •wn church. And not far from Bakkelandet is Ladcgaard which has alfo a particular church. The caftle of Munkholmen ftands on a rock in Drontheim harbour, and defends both the city and harbour towards the fea. It formerly was the ufual place of confinement for flate prifoners, and particularly of the un- fortunate Peter Schumaker, Count Greiff'enfeld and Great Chancellor, who was imprifoned here from 1676 to 1699, and died at Drontheim immedi- ately after he had obtained his liberty. 4. The Vogteys of Stordakn and Verdaten^ which comprehend the Filkes or little territories of Stiordola, Skaugna or Skdgeh, and Verdola-fylkc. It has eight Courts of Judicature, from which there lies an appeal to the Superior Court at Drontheim. Froßen and Skogcn are accounted the bell: corn-lands in all the north part of the kingdom. Froßen is remarkable for the court eftablifhed there by king Hagen Adel- ßeen, whofe jurifdiction extended over all the inhabitants of Drontheim. Di- rectly oppofite to Froßen ftood formerly on an illand the caftle of Steenvigßjolm built juft before the Reformation bv the laft Archbifhop Oluf-Fngelbretjon for the fecurity of the jewels belonging to himfelf and the church of Drontheim. But after he left the caftle, it was foon mattered by Chrij'hpher Hvitfe/d. It was ceded to the Swedes by king Frederick II. in 1564; but was afterwards demolished by the King's order, and in lieu D d 2 of 203 2Ö4 $ O R x IV A T. [Drontfieim. of it the ftrong fort of Skagnas or Skognes was erected in another' place, which is always kept in good condition. 5. The Vogtey of Inderoen^ which contains the little Diftridts of Sparbygia and At/gna-fy/ke, with fix jurifdicYions. "Jemtefield, which here feparates Norway 'from Sweden is one of the highcft mountains in Norway. On a bay in the parifh of Stods formerly flood the town of Stenkier. Note. The Vogteys of Sfordalcn and Inderoen form one Diftricl called Indberred, which is accounted the befl corn-land in the Prefecture of Drontbeim. The Provoflfhip of Indberred contains eleven parifhes, with thirty-four churches and two chapels. 6. The Vogtey of Nummedal is fo called from the river Naums, which runs into Naumfdal-bay . It contains three jurifdidtions, and a Provoflfhip with three parifhes and fourteen churches. II. The Prefecture of Nordland, extends from Nummedal to Find- mark, and contains the following Vogteys. ' 1 . Helgeland, formerly called Halogaland, Hahgia, and Helleland. Ramus labours hard to prove that this is the.Ogygia of Homer, and that Ulyjfes was the fame perfon with Othin or Outin ; fo that according to that author this country was inhabited immediately after the Trojan war, and confequently before any other part of Norway. It is eighteen Norway miles in circum- ference, "and is the moll populous Diflrict in Nordland; the foil is fertile, and. covered with fine woods and rich paflures. A great quantity of fifh, tallow, and fine" butter is exported from hence. An appeal lies from the* inferior courts of this Vogtey to the Provincial Court at Stege. There are five parifhes, two vicarages, and fixteen churches in this Provoflfhip. Near Alßaboug, in this Diflrict, is a remarkable range of* mountains with feven high fummits or crefts called the feven lifters, and which are difcerni- ble fixteen Norway miles off at fea. In the fouth part of this Vogtey is the mountain of Torg-hatten, through which there is an aperture, from one fide to the other, fifty fathoms in height and a thoufand in length ; and on the top of this mountain is a piece of water, or refervoir, of the dimenfions of a moderate fifh-pond. 2. The Vogtey of Saiten is fixteen Norway miles in length and fix in breadth., -It produces a good deal of corn, efpecially barley, and has fine pafture^s and profitable fifheries. "The 'Provoflfliip of Saiten includes four parifhes and fourteen churches. At Stegen the Court of Judicature for the whole Prefecture is held. In this Diftrict is the flrait or current of Saltjlrom, which, at certain times, has the fame dangerous and violent agitations as. are obferved in the Mojkoeßrom. 3. The Vogtey, of Sennien is about ten Norway miles in length, and eight is\ breadth. It confifls chiefly of the large ifland of Sennien, the foil of which Drontheim.] N O. R W ' A T, 205 which is fertile for corn and pafturage; and on the weft fide- of i( are fe- veral deep bays. The chief employment of the inhabitants is fifhing. i This Provoftfhip contains fourteen churches, c ; ••- .• ; ; ■ ■ • .4. The Vogtey of ■Tromfoeh is between feven and eight Norway mijes in length, and contains one Provoftfhip with eight churches. As the fum- mers are very fhort in this country, it produces but little corn, and no great plenty of grafs ; fo that the inhabitants fubfift by the fifheries. -.5. The > Vogtey s of Lofoden, Veßeraalen, and : Andenas confift entirely of itlands, and make but one Provoftfhip, in which are nineteen churches : Thefe Diftricts alio labour under a fcarcity of grain ; but the iflands of Lo- foden produce good grafs which grows very high, and have the belt fiiheries in all Nordland. A whole range of iflarids extends from Northreaft -to South-weft along this coaft, and betwixt them and the continent runs a large bay called Wefl- ßorden, which widens gradually towards the South-weft. The ifland of Roß lies fartheft towards that point of the compafs, and is four Norway miles in circuit : It has a church built on it, and is furrounded by a great number of fmaller illands. At the diftance of fome miles to the North-eaft of it lies the. ifland of Werroe, which has alfo a church and is encompalfed with feveralfmall iflands. Between Werroe and the neareft of the hafoden^ called Moskoenas, at the diftance of a Norway, mile from either of them lies the little ifland of Mo/koe-, which is about a Norway mile in circuit, and noted forks rich pafturagesand the fine. fheep bred there. Lofoden include three other iflands befides Mojkoenas, and thefe four iflands ftretch to the North-eaft about nine Norway miles, as far as the ifland of Vaage ; and- be>- tween them run little (traits or channels. Further north lie the iflands of hangoen and Andenoen, which are both comprehended in the Diitrict of Weßeraalen, and have their refpective churches. Between the aforementioned iflands of Mo/koe and Mojkoenas is the fa^ mous Mojkoefirotn, which is generally called Mahlßrom, or Maelftrom, by mariners. This current runs fix hours from North to South, and returns from South to North in the fucceeding fix hours, like the ebbing and flow- ing of the fea, but in direct oppofition to the motion of the tides : For dur- ing the flood which runs from South to North, the Moßoeßrom runs from North to South ; and during the reflux or ebb when the fea runs from North to South, this current impetuoufly returns from South to North. -It runs. with a lurprifing rapidity, efpecially between the ifland of 'Mo/koe and the extremity of Mojkoenas, where the tides rife higheft ; but gradually abates its impetuofity as it approaches the iflands of Werroe 'and Rojl. The Moskoejlrom never runs in a direct line like other currents ; but al moil: cir- cular. When it is half flood in the fea, the current here runs to the South- South-Eaft ; and as the tide rifes higher ; winds fouth wards and from the South to the South-weft, and fo on to due Weft. When it is high-water out 20 6 N R W A Y. [Dronthei-m. out at tea, the current of the MosUcßrvn alters its courfe to the North- weft ; and fo gradually on to the North, where its impetuofity is at a ftand for about three quarters of. an hour. This interval is obferved twice a day, after which the motion begins again. The appearance and effects of the Moskoeflrom have been defcribed as very dangerous and dreadful ; but, it rnuft be owned, not without fome exaggeration. M. Bing, who had feen it, informs us that it has no whirlool or.wrto; but that it is formed by the collifion of an aflemblage of foaming waves, rifing as it were pyra- midically to a great height, and with a prodigious noife. According to Scheiderufs account the Moskoeßrom is full of vertices or terrible whirlpools in the form of inverted cones, and above two fathoms deep from the bafe to the apex, and, as fome relate, four fathoms in diameter : However, both accounts may, in fome meafure, be reconciled. This is certain Firft, That the Moskoeßrom is not agitated with equal violence at all times -, that about the new and full moon, the Equinoxes, or in ftormy weather, it rages with the greateft impetuofity ; and that at other times it is more moderate, Pnd twice a day quite calm. Secondly, That the navigation in that part of the fea is not abiblutely impeded by it, as at half flood a veffel can fafely go from Moskoenas to Werroe and Roß, and at half ebb may fafely return to Moskoenas ; that the ftxait betwixt Moskoenas and Werroe is twice a day quite fmooth and navi- gable, for three quarters of an hour; and that the inhabitants of thofe iflands, accordingly, row in their boats to Moskoe, which lies in the middle of it, to look after the fheep which feed on that ifland ; and the fifhermen found the bottom of it. After thefe intervals, the fwiftnefs of the current gradu- ally increafes to its ufual boifterous rapidity and violence. Sometimes the waves in this current are not larger than thofe that are (een at lea in a hard gale of wind ; but when its agitations are at the height, fhips that fail on either fide of it keep at the diftance of two or three Norway miles ; for otherwife they would be abforbed by it, and entirely deftroyed. It is de- fcernible, indeed, at a greater diftance at fea and even within a quarter of a Norivax mile of the continent ; but this does not render the fea unnavi- o-able at'fuch a diftance; for large veflels and fmall barks fail very fecurely within half a league of the ifland of Weroe. J fhall not engage in a particular difquifition into the caufes of this Phe- nomenon, but it is probable, that it does not proceed from any cavern or abyfs under the water, but from its impetuous oppofition to the current of the tides and the collifion of the waves. A particular account of the Moskoeflrom is to be found in Clausen's and Ramus's Betreibungen von Norwegen, or Defcriptions of Norway, but the latter has little more than copied" the former writer ; in Ramus's Trail. Hi Ihr. Geegr. quo Ulyssem* £? Out in um unum eundumque effe ojlenditur, p. 117 — 128; in Justin 1 Bingi Biff, de gurgite Worvagico, vulgo Moeskoejirom. -Hafnia 1741; in a *" Altonaifchen Drontheim.] NORWAY. 207 Altonaifchen Poßreuter, or the Altena Gazette called the Poß-boy, for the year 1751, p. 153, 155, 159, 167; in Pontoppidaris Natural Hiftory of Norway; and in the Hamburg Magazine, vol. vii. p. 203, taken from the Memoirs of the Sivedijh Academy of Sciences. Thefe feveral accounts I have compared, and at the fame time had before me the draught in Ramm's DiiTertation, and another in manufcript, which is ftill larger. III. The Prefecture of Finmark has its particular Prefect, Regifter, and inferior Judge, but the fame Provincial Judge with the Prefecture of Nord- land. The inhabitants of this Prefecture fubfifl: chiefly by fifliing ; and the beft falmon of any in Norway are caught in the river Tdna in this Province. In fummer-time the fun continues above the Horizon of this country for fome weeks. There are neither towns nor villages in Finmark, though the fea-coaft is pretty well inhabited. The Prefecture is divided into 1. Weft-Fintnark, which makes one Provoftihip, including twelve churches and chapels, which are ferved by five Preachers. The extremity of the ifJand Magaroe in Weß-Finmark is the moil northern head of land in Europe, and is called Nord-kap or North-Cape. 2. Eaß-Finmark, which makes but one Provoftmip, in which are nine churches and chapels, and three Preachers. The extreme point of the con- tinent towards the North is called the Promontory of Nordkyn ; being ten Norway miles diftant from Nord-kap, but not fo near the Pole as the latter. The ifland of Wardoe lies about half a league to the Eaft of the conti- nent, and is three Norway miles in circumference. It has a fecure harbour defended by the ftrong caftle of Wardoe-huus, which may juftly be reckoned the moft northern fortrefs in the whole world. An 2o8 NOR WAT. [Drorithcim. '••'■■ ■ •■. : ■ . . ■ , ■ .. " ..• ■ • ■. . •. An Kc co y,N'T . of 'the Da NT sh Mis £i o n ; ''eßa^/i/he4jnt^ c Parts. . >Tp H Efides of the* ;vaft ! cha,rti : ipif rrVotintärns called Kolen and Nord-Felfen, "•* }1 ^bi^'^aVe'ti^"VÄei^Hra^Bö , ^^fe inhabited by Laplanders , who äfe'cailed by th&Wörwegidtis Finfafpen 6v Lapßrmeny but Lapland, com- monly To called, döeä 'nOT'eitend fö far as "thefe mountains. ' ThbTe whbHiV'e" W the weftTrde^f thefe rocky mountains, belong to Norway, and thofe that inhabit the eaft fide r of Them appertain to Sweden and RnJJia., The Lappers in Nordland appear to be of" quite another ex- traction, or, at* leaft, a different colony from the Finnen and Lappers of Fhmiark. This diftiri&ion is not only bbfervable by the difference of their dialect; but is ftill morevifible with regard fö their 'marriages. For, it feems, the Finmark-Lappers^boirimaie all; inter-marriages with their rela- tions, even in the fourth di'gxee-; r whe'reii-ihcNordländ-Lappers, before the Daniß Miflion taught' them bettet;,' made riofcruple of intermixing even in the firft degree of kindred, both" in the afcending and defcending lines. The Finners and Eawffll 'flt^fintiirk '^Ve^'l^TOoFBFtK^rw^ mountains, where, like the Norwegians;' they laboiif hard' fora fubfiftenee both by fea and land, ähü^do^fäjucö^^ar^äto^ s fet^^^RaW* v H!fe? s ^Jhdefiilg Lap- landers: The Ndrdtärtd-ijäpperi, ö l h "the contrary,- hVe' Both winter and fum- mer in thick forefts on the mountains,' röammg^aboüt'ffonr place to place as they can find pafture for their herds of Rein-deer, by which they generally fubfift; fome of them being poffeffed of a thoufand or fourteen hundred of thofe animals. The Rein-deer not only yield their owners milk, butter, cheefe, venifon, and fkins both for traffick and cloathing, but are alfo ufed to draw their fledges. Thefe Laplanders come down but very feldom, and in fmall numbers into ^g^^gfa^^^^^her Norwegians:. Laftly, thofe Lappers who inhab^^^^f^>^:| 1 |^|^iure of Drontheim particu- larly appropriated to the^^qajjgd ' Jndhcrrcd, are much more licentious and diforderly in their mai^e^"W4j5Ö^j|e jlernioned above ; and many of them, efpecially fuch as have no R4in^teer%, ftroll about from village to village during the whole year, and fubfift partly by begging, and partly by work- ing with furriers. Others again fpend the whole fummer upon the moun- tains with their families ; but, in winter, excepting a few left to take care of the Rein-deer, come down into the vallies, and encamp clofe by the neareft creeks, where they fet up their huts ; but, according to an ancient cuftom, they often fhift their habitation. Thefe creeks are very frequent in 4 Dronthcim.] NORWAY. 209 in Norway, fome of them running ten or fifteen Norwegian miles into the land, and in their courfe forming a great number of fmall bays, the fides of which are ufually inhabited. But thofe only which are near the moun- tains are frequented, at certain times of the year, by the Finners and Lappen for the conveniency of fifhing. Before the eftablifhment of the Daniß> MifTion, the religion of the Lappers and Finners was an abfurd mixture of Paganifm and Chriftianity. Before the Chriftian religion was introduced into Nordland, if they were not entirely of the lame religion with the ancient Norwegian pagans, they at leaft agreed with them for the moft part ; though they had fome fuperfti- tious peculiarities of their own. When the country came to be governed by Chriftian Sovereigns, the Lappers and Finners., in order the better to con- ceal their idolatry and magic, fet them off with fome ceremonies borrowed from Chriftianity, as it was then difguifed by Popery : Hence it comes to pais that the lign of the crofs is fo commonly ufed among them. But when at length the unfullied light of the Gofpel penetrated the gloom in which theie remote parts were involved, the inhabitants became ftill more induftrious to hide their idolatrous and pagan cuftoms ; and in externals, even to the ufe of the facraments, affected to conform entirely to Chrifti- anity. This is the lefs to be wondered at, as the main fcope and whole defign of their religion is to procure temporal eafe and advantage ; for, be- fore the Miflion, they had but very faint and imperfect notions of the Im- mortality of the Soul, the Refurrect.ion, and a Future State. In the year 1609, king Chri/iian IV. publifhed an Ordinance, by which all Finners and Lappers convicted of magic or forcery, and lefufing to re- nounce it for the future, were condemned to die*; and others, fufpected on good grounds, were adjudged to be banifbed. Erick Breda/, who was bifhop of Dronthcim from the year 1642 to 1672, laboured with the ut- moft zeal and afiiduity in converting the Lappers and Finners to Chriftianity; and poffibly it was his laudable example that incited his fuccefTors to exert themlelves in the fame pious undertaking : At leaft from that time the Dronthcim minifters, whole parifhes border on the mountains, have been ob- ferved to intereft themlelves more in the converlion of the Finners and Lappers than they did before, though, as to efientials, little has been done. Ifaac Of/on, a poor perfon, from his ardent zeal for the converlion of the Finners and Lappers, went among them about the beginning of this cen- tury, and ipent fourteen years in great poverty and diftrefs ; however, he This Monarch's zeal in converting thefe favages to Chriftianity is to he commended ; hut the method he took to effect it was as weak as it was deteftable. The abfurdities of Po- pery, which the Author juftly contemns, and the delirious frenzy of the Laplanders in their j magical incantations cannot be more contrary to reafon, than to punifh thefe poor favages with death for their ignorance and fuperftition. As for banifliing thefe pretended criminals, it would be difficult to find a more defolate region than that in which they at prefent wanden Vol. I. E e had 2io NORWAY. [Drontheim. had made fome proficiency in his charitable undertaking, when he was met by the Miffionaries on the mountains, and taken into their fervice. This Miffion was firft eftablifhed by the illuftrious Danijlj Monarch Fre- derik IV. who in the fpring of the year 1706, fent Paid Re/in, a well qua- lified perfon, to travel in Nordland, Finmark, and Lapland; who, the year following, tranfmitted a full account of thofe countries. Hereupon, Biihop Krog received orders to exhort his inferior clergy to be affifting in the propofed Mifiicn, and to felect able perfons to carry on fo important an undertaking. The Collegium de carju Evangelii promovcndo being eftablifhed at Copen- hagen on the tenth of December, 1714, the king, in 1715, fent the Mif- fionaries proper inftruclions how to proceed in their expedition for the con- verlion of the Fin tappers in Finmark and Lapland. The Mifiion, was ex- tended alfo to thofe in Nordland and the Prefecture of Drontheim, and confequently in every part of that Diocefe, in 1720. By virtue of this Ordi- nance, it was immediately determined to found a Seminary for Miffionaries both in Copenhagen and Drontheim. Soon after, namely, in the year 171 6, M. 'Thomas von Weßen was fettled as a preacher in the Drontheim dialect, with the titles of LecJor Theologian and Notarius Capituli ; and this worthy Divine, in order to promote the further converfion of thofe who were in- volved in the darknefs of heathenifm, chearfully undertook to go to War- doehuus with two of his chaplains, or affiftants, of approved abilities. The firft fcene of his labours was Ea/l-Finmark, where he was an inftrument of bringing feven hundred and fifty perfons into the light of the Gofpel. In Weß-Finmark his endeavours were crowned with ftill greater fuccefs, the number of converts there amounting to fomething above a thoufand fouls. And laftly, he returned to Drontheim through the Nordlands, fuc- cefsfully deftroying the power of Satan by fowing the feeds of the Gofpel wherever he came. On the twentieth of November a royal edict was publifhed enjoining that every mother-church in Norway ihould contribute two rix-dollars, and every fubordinate church one rix-dollar for promoting the Million into Finmark. This contribution was to commence on the firft of May, being the feaft of St. Phi lip and St. jf 'antes, in the year 17 17, and to be continued every year on the fame day. This was a conftant fund for the falaries of the Mif- fionaries and other neceffary dilburfements, and received an augmentation from his Majefty, who appropriated to that purpofe fome ecclefiaftical tithes belonging to him in the Diftricf of Hegeland in the Nordlands, arifing from the benefices and churches of Bronoe, Alflahoug, and Rodoe. In 1717, the Seminary at Drontheim was quite fettled; and in 171 8, M. von Weßen, accompanied by four new Miffionaries, undertook a fecond journey to Finmark, where he had the fatisfadtion of finding that moft of the Finlappers, both on the fea-coaft and on the mountains, continued firm to Drontheim.] NORWAY. 211 to thofe good principles which he had inftilled into them ; and made feve- ral difpofitions for their further inftruction. In 1718, his Majefty granted to the Million the perpetuity, &c. of the revenues belonging to all the benefices in Finmark, for building and endow- ing churches, chapels, and fchools. In 1720, the Million was alio extended to Nordland and the Prefecture of Drontheim, and afterwards over that vaft chain of rocky mountains called the Kolen ; and many important meafures were taken for the further pro- moting of this laudable undertaking. In 1722, M. von Weften drew up a complete plan of the Nordland Mif- fion, which confifts or thirteen Diftricts, and are all provided at prelent with churches, chapels,- tabernacles, and fchools, with a proper number of Mifllonaries and Schoolmafters. The MiiTionary Diftricts are as follows : In Finmark. 1 . That of Faft-Finmark, with a Miffionary for Warangcr, Tana-, and Laxefiord. 2. Porf anger in Wefl-Fimnark. 3. Alten, alfo in Wefl-Finmark. In the Nordlands. 4. That of Skieruoe in Tromfoen. 5. Carlfoe, likewife in Tromfoen. 6. Sennien and Weß er aalen. 7. Lodingen. 8. Stegen and Bodoen. 9. Gilleskael. 10. Rahnen. 1 1 . Wefsen. In the Prefecture of D r o n t h e i m. 12. That of Overhalden in Nummedalen. 13. hidherred. According to the abovementioned plan, the whole bufinefs and oeco- nomy of this Miffion has hitherto been conducted with the happieft con- fequences ; of which a fuller and more accurate account has been given by E. J. Jejfcn, in the fixth volume of the Danifchen Bibliothek, or Dani/lj Library, from page 601 to 688, at the clofe of the year 1744. E e 2 THE tv g NORWAY. [Faroe. THE Norwegian Islands. BESIDES the continent which has been already defcribed, feveral lar^e and fmall iflands belong to the kingdom of Norway, which re- main to be taken notice of. We (hall begin with the fmalleft iflands, as they lie neareft to the main land. The Of cades, or Orkneys, and the He t- 1 and or Shetland iflands formerly belonged to Norway: But as they have fince become a part of Scotland, we fhall give an account of them in de- lcribinr that kingdom. The firft in order of the Norwegian iflands are The Iflands of Faro;. In Latin Faeroce, or Infula Faerocnjes. We have a map of thefe iflands in Debess Defcription of them. They lie in the North-Sea, about a hundred and feventy leagues South of Iceland, but fomething more to the Weft of Norway; and are twenty- five in number, though but feventeen of them are inhabited. They ex- tend about fifteen Norway miles in length, and ten in breadth ; and lie betweeen 6i°, 15', and 62 , 10' North latitude. When the day is at the o-reateft length in thefe iflands, the fun riles feven minutes after two, and fets fifty-three minutes after nine. In the fhorteft. day the fun rifes here fifty- three minutes after nine and fets feven minutes after two. The fummers and winters are very moderate in this climate ; and as the latter are neither long nor fevere, the cattle feed here in the open air all the year round. However the dampnefs of the air makes the inhabitants fubjecl: to many diftempers, as coughs, the fcurvy, &c. Thefe iflands are, indeed, fo many folid rocks, but the furface of them is covered with earth or mould to the depth of an ell * ; and this (hallow foil is fo fertile that one tun -f- of feed yields above twenty tuns of corn. The paftures are excellent ; efpecially for fheep, in the great flocks of which the wealth of the inhabitants con- fifts : But a hard winter is very deftruclive to thefe animals, as in general they run wild about the country. Here is a great plenty both of land * The Author does not tell. us how many feet this ell confifts of 5 probably it is equal to two feet. + A Tun is eight Bufhels, or a Quarter of corn. and Faroe.] NORWAY. 213 and water -fowl ; and It is naturally to be fuppofed that the inhabitants do not want fifh. The commodities vended here to foreigners are falted mut- ton, goofe quills, feathers and Rider down; knit woollen waftccoats, caps, and ftockings ; tallow, &c . The iflands of Faroe were difcovered and peopled in the time of Ha- rald Haarfager King of Norway, and one Griemr Camban was the firft perfon who built a houfe on one of thefe iflands. The Chriftian religion being quite eftablifhed in Denmark about the year of Chriffc iooo, the Gofpel was alfo propagated in the iflands of Faroe, which were even thought worthy of a particular Bifhop ; and the ifland of Stromoe was ap- pointed for his place of residence. King Chrijlian III. having eftablifhed the doctrines of the Reformation in his dominions, nominated a Provoft to fuperintend the affairs of religion in thefe iflands; who, to this day, is fub- ordinate to the Bifhop of Seeland, and has under his jurifdiction fcven Preachers or minifters, who have the care of thirty-nine churches. Thefe iflands together with Iceland are under one Governor; but they have their reipeftive Longman or Provincial Judge, their Land-vogt, their inferior Judge, and King's Conful who fuperintends the trade carried on between the Faroe iflands and Copenhagen . As to their ecclefiaftical ftate, thefe iflands are divided into feven pa- riflies. I. The parilli of Nordroe ; to which belong the following iflands and churches : 1. Videroe, an ifland of a Norway mile and a half in length, and three quarters of a mile in breadth. On this ifland ftands the mother-church, of which the fix churches erected on the five following iflands, are members. 2. Fugloe, which lies moft to the North-Eaft among this clufter of iflands. It is three-fourths of a Norway mile in length, and half a mile in breadth. 3. Svino, which is about a Norway mile and a half long, and three quarters of a mile broad. 4. Bordoe, which is two Norway miles in length, and has a very good harbour called Klack, on the North-weft fide. Between the firft, third, and fourth of thefe iflands is a fmall vortex or whirlpool. 5. Kunoe, which is fomething above one Norway mile in length, and half a mile in breadth. 6. Kalfoe, which is fomething longer and broader than thofe mentioned above, and has two churches. II. The Parifh of Oesteroe is an ifland about five Norway miles in length, and in fome places not above half, but at moft about one Norway mile and a half in breadth. Beiides the mother-church of Nas } it contains fix 214 N .0 R W A T. ("Faroe. fix other churches which are members of it. This ifland has two har- bours, namely, Fugkjiord and Kongjhavcn : The latter is in Skaal-bay. III. Stromoe is the largeit of all thefe iflands • being fix 'Norway miles in length, and its greateft breadth is about two. It is divided into two parts, or parifhes. i. The fouth part contains Thorjhaven, in Latin Thori portus, a fmall town with a good harbour de- fended b*y a fort. This is the capital and common market of all the Faroe iflands, and the refidence of the Land-vogt and the King's Conful. Here is a little fchool founded by king Christian III. and improved by Cbri- ftian IV. in the year 1647. On this ifland alfo ftands the mother-church, of which the three following churches are members ; namely, thofe of Kirkebce, Kalbach, and No/Joe. Kirkeboe was formerly the Bifhop's See. Noljoe is an ifland of that name about a Norway mile in length, and a mile and a half in breadth: 2. The north part contains the mother-church of Ko/de-ßord, and four fubordinate churches. In this part of the ifland are the harbours of Wefl- manhavn, and Halderfaiig. IV. Waagoe is an ifland about two Norway miles in length. The mo- ther-church of Midvaag ftands on a harbour of the fame name ; and three other churches dependent on it, near one of which is the harbour Sor- vaagt ftand on this ifland. A fourth church, that belongs to that of Mid- vaag or the mother-church ftands on the ifland of Myggenas, which is three quarters of a Norway mile in length, and fomething under half a mile in breadth. V. Sandoe is an ifland about two Norway miles in length and one in breadth, and contains the mother-church of Sand and two others which are dependent on it. On the fouth fide of this ifland are the rocks of Daljiiipen and Dahßas, and a dangerous current or whirlpool, called fernen. Two other churches belong to that of Sand or the mother-church, which ftand on the iflands of Skuoe (which is about three quarters of a Norway mile long and a quarter of a mile broad) and Store-Dimeri, which is almoft round, and about one Norway mile in circumference. The latter is a rock which is fo fteep and furrounded with fand-banks and a great depth of water on all fides, that no place can be better fortified by Nature. The flocks of fheep on this ifland run about wild, and lie in the open air all the year round. Not far from Store or Great-Dimen lies Lille-Dimen, or Little-Dimen. The foil of this ifland has a Angular quality, namely, that white fheep being brought to feed here, in a fhort time turn black. The firil appearances of this metamorphofis are black fpots on the legs, then on the back, which continue to fpread till the whole fleece acquires a blackifh hue. VI. SUDEROE Iceland.] ^NORWAY. 215 VI. Suderoe is five Norway miles in length and two in its greatefl breadth. It contains five churches, befides the mother-church of §>ualboe. The belt harbour on this ifland is called Lobroe, being formed by the bay of Vaagßord. Near the fouth extremity of the ifland, not far from Swnboe, is a more rapid and dangerous current or whirlpool than the Muskoe-ßrom on the coaft of Norway. In the middle of this vortex (lands a rock called Sumboe-Monk. Near the village of Famoen> there is a mountain with a fmall lake on the top of it, which daily ebbs and flows at the fame time with the flux and reflux of the tides. The Ifland of Iceland*, In Latin Ißandia. §. 1. 'NVT O T to mention the old maps of Iceland, a fmall one is to be •^ found in Anderfon's Defcription of that ifland ; and a larger and better chart, but without the names of moft places of note, nor even of a Angle river, may be feen in Horrebow's Defcription of Ice/and. This was drawn by fome of the King's Engineers, and completed by Cap- tain Knopf'm the year 1734; but it was publifhed by M. Hvrrebow, who reduced it to a fmaller fcale. According to Horrebow's map this ifland lies four degrees more to the Eaft than it was placed in other maps ; but it feems a little improbable, that other geographers fhculd be fo far miftaken. §. 2. Iceland lies in the great Atlantic Ocean, about a hundred and twenty Norway miles diftant from Drontheitn, and fixty from Greenland. §. 3. The pirate Nadok, who about the year 860 was wrecked on this ifland, firft called it Snaland, i. e. ' Snow-land ;' but, four years afterwards, one Gardar a Swede landing here, gave it the name of Gardarßjolm. Flocko, a third adventurer, named it in his own language I/land, i. e. ' Iceland,' from the great flakes of ice which he faw driven hither from the Ice-Sea. Some authors fuppofe Ice/and to be the famous Thule of the Ancients. §. 4. This ifland is about a hundred and twenty Norway miles in length, and fifty in its greateft breadth ; but it is hardly twelve Norway miles broad in the narrowell parts. §. 5. Iceland properly confifts of a prodigious range of mountains run- ning from Eafl: to Weft > on the declivities of which, and in the vallies \ * Some EngUJh Geographers write Ifland inftead of Iceland; but, I think, erroneoufly, as it confounds the proper name Iceland with the apellative Ifland. lying 2i6 M . R. TV A r. [Iceland. lying between them, the inhabitants live. Several of thefe high moun- tains, which are always covered with ice and mow, are called jfockcler. Here are alio fome mountains that confrft only of rocks and fand which are confequently far from being fertile. But on other mountains fituated near the cbaft there are levels or plains covered with verdure, of feveral miles in extent, which produce fine grafs. Though Iceland is, for the moll part, a mountainous country, yet there are roads practicable for a horfe in every part of the ifland. Carriages were formerly ufed here, but are now laid afide, as the trouble attending them was greater than the conveniency that could arife from them. Every year fome hundreds of pack-horfes come over the mountains from the north, to the trading places in the fouth parts of the ifland : Thefe are loaded with butter, woollen manufactures, &V. which they barter for other commodities. §. 6. Earthquakes are not unfrequent in Ice/and, efpecially in the fouth parts about Rangarval/e and Amefs-Sysßcr, fometimes in Gidbringe and the adjacent Diftricts where they have been attended with very fatal confequences, and but feldom in the weft and north parts of the ifland; by which it has been often laid warte, and undergone great alterations. Thefe calamities happened chiefly in the years 1734, 1752, and 1755, and feveral fpots are to be feen which were defolated by fiery eruptions breaking out of the earth at thofe times. Many of the yockeler or fnowy mountains have alfo gradually become Vol- cano's ; and further alterations of the fame nature may probably happen again in future times. Of thefe burning mountains Heckla is the beft known to foreigners; and therefore I.fhall give fome account of its eruptions in the fequel. The yockeler called Kotligiau -and Oeraife (which laft word in general fignifies a wafte or defert) have alio of late years broke out in Shaft rfietd-S\/Jel. The former had a fecond eruption in the year 1721, and the latter in 1727 ; when thefe mountains, befides an inundation of melted fnow and ice which poured down the (ides of them, ejected a prodigious quantity of earth, fand, and ftone as far as the lea. The huge mountain of Krabla, which lies in the North-Sv/Jel, on the feventeenth of May 1724, began with a terrible explofion to eject fmoke, fire, cinders and ftone, which was followed by an ignited ftream, like fufed metal. This Lava continued flowly to flow on for a Norway mile and a half, as far as the lake oi My 11 at where it emptied itfelf; and did not ceafe till the end of Septem- ber 1729, when the eructations of the mountain fublided. This fiery erup- tion of Krabla was foon followed by that of the adjacent mountains of Leirhniukur., Biornaßag, and Hitzool. It is a common obfervation among the inhabitants, that when the ice and fnow are (o accumulated on one of thefe mountains which formerly ejected fire, as to ftop the clefts and chafms which were the (piracies or outlets to thofe- dreadful eructations, and prevent the evaporation of fmoke, flame, &c. a new eruption is not far off. In 1756, the Kotligiau began to eject fire and fmoke a third time. 5 §-7- Springs Iceland.] NORWAY. 217 §. 7. Springs which are naturally warm, and even hot fprings are fre- quently to be met with in Iceland; and likewife waters that have a mineral tafte. About mount Hecla are ieveral fmall bafonsof warm water, which fometimes emit a copious fleam ; but at other times this vapour is not fo vifible. Thefe hot fprings in the language of the country are called Hver, and are of three forts. Some of them are little more than tepid, lb that a perfon may hold his hand in the water without any inconveniency: Others are fo hot as to rife in fmall bubbles like fimmering water; but in others the ebullition is fo ftrong as to force the water up to a confiderable height. The lad fort are obferved to be either periodical or variable in their ebulli- tions. Of thefe I (hall give a more particular account in the fequel. If a large ftone be thrown into one of thefe fprings it is always ejedted by the return of the ebullition. The inhabitants who live near them boil their victuals only by hanging a pot, in which the flefli is put in cold water, in thefe hot fprings : They alio bathe in the rivulets that run from them, which by degrees become lukewarm, or are cooled by rivulets of cold wa- ter. If the cows drink the water of thefe fprings, they are faid to yield more milk than ordinary; and it is likewife accounted very wholfome for the human fpecies to drink. The Hver or hot fpring near Kryfevig emits a very ftrong and fetid fulphureous vapour ; and fome of thefe fprings are fo intenfely hot as to calcine bones. §. 8. In the rocks of Icela?id cryftals are fometimes found, and many of them reprefent an objedl viewed through them double ; but, properly fpeak- ing, thefe are only a fpecies of 'Talc. There are alfo evident figns that the mountains of Iceland contain iron, copper, and even filver ore. Near thefe are found two kinds of agate, which, when lighted, burns like a candle ; a fpecies of Bitumen which is black, fhining, and pretty hard ; and another fort of black earth which is harder, and breaks into thin diaphanous lamina} this is not inflamable, but vitrifies in the fire. In Norder-Syßel, which lies in the Government of Huufevig, and in Gtd- bringe-SyJfel near Kryfevig, fulphur is dug out of the ground, and in no other part of the illand. The foil there is very warm and internally hot, and, in fome places, yields fulphur in great quantities; but the fulphur trade is now difcontinued. Salt fprings are not known here ; however, fait has been found at the root of the Volcano's or burning mountains. That fait might be made here by art is unqueftionable, from the fuccels of former trials. Woods are not frequent on this illand, though here and there a coppice, or fmall wood, is to be feen : But it is remarkable, that great numbers of fmall and large trees are driven hither by the fea, efpecially on the north coaft, where, for the moft part, they lie and rot ; the inhabitants having no fhipping by which they can export, or convey this wood for fale among their countrymen. A great quantity of fhrubs on which grow all Vol. I. F f fort^ ■2 1 8 NORWAY. [Iceland. forts of berries, as juniper-berries, black-berries, &c. are burnt every year for charcoal, which the natives ufe in their forges. The common fuel of the country is turf, fome of which has a very ftrong fulphureous fmell 5 and even fifh-bones are burnt in fome parts of this ifland. Very good <*rafs not only grows in the vallies which border on the^ lakes and rivers, but alfo in the hollows betwixt the mountains, and fometimes even on the fummits of the latter. The fineft paftures are in the northern parts of the ifland, where the grafs fprings up very faft, and to a great height. The cattle are generally driven amongft the mountains to graze, where they find good pafture ; but the grafs that grows near the habita- tions of the Icelanders is referved for winter-fodder. Here is alfo a plentiful variety of falubrious and medicinal herbs, as fcurvy-^rafs, fampire, angelica, which is much ufed by the inhabitants, and Berg-grafs, in Latin Mufcus catharticus Iflandice. The laft is a kind of odoriferous mofs and is very nourifhing j and great quantities of it are laid up by the inhabitants for occafional ufe. Hitherto very few efculent vegetables have been cultivated in Iceland; but as all kind of culinary herbs thrive in the gardens at Bejfeflader and thofe of the epifcopal palaces, it is probable, that with proper culture, they would alfo grow in moft parts of the ifland. The Icelanders are entirely difcouraged from purfuing agriculture, as thev have not yet been able to bring any corn to maturity in this foil ; and yet'fome parts of the ifland is known by feveral evident traces to have been cultivated in former times. Bread is but little known here among the commonalty, who make fhift to live on dried fifh and flefh, without it. For though a large quantity of meal and bread is imported every year into the harbours of Iceland, the lower clafs of people can purchale but little or none of it ; the price being adapted only to the more wealthy fort. The Icelanders, however, make a kind of meal and bread of a fort of wild barley, which grows chiefly in Skaftefield-Sy/fel ; and in times of fcarcity they have recourfe to a certain fea-vegetable, called in the Iceland language Saul or Sol, and in Latin Alga marina Saccarifera, which is dried before the fire, and fold at half the price of dried fifh. The cattle are obferved to feed on this fea-weed at low- water, and to prefer it to any other marine vegetables. §. 9. Bears are frequently driven on this ifland along with the large flakes of ice from Greenland. But the inhabitants are fo vigilant and dextrous in deftroying them, that the only fpecies of wild beafts to be feen in Iceland are foxes, which are either brown or white. The horfes here, as in all other northern Countries, are fmall, but ftrong and full of mettle, and, excepting thofe that are broke for the faddle, lie in the open air all the year round. In winter they fubfift only on what fodder they can fcrape from under the ice and fnow. Such horfes as the owners Iceland.] N R IF A T. owners have no immediate occafion for are turned out among the mountains, where they go in queft of them when they are wanted ; and every one knows his own horfes hy certain marks. Great numbers of fheep are to be feen in Iceland; and in thofe parts where graziery is the chief occupation of the inhabitants, it is not uncom- mon for a man to be mafter of a flock of three, four, or five hundred fheep. In the winter feafon thev drive their flocks to fhelter at night ; and, in very fevere weather, they keep them in the cotes alfo in the day-time. The grazing countries lie moftly in the northern and eaftern parts of the ifland. The inhabitants of the fouthern are moftly employed in fifhing, aud leave their flocks abroad both fummer and winter. Nature feems to have pro- vided a fhelter for the fheep in thofe parts ; there being large caves in the earth, into which thefe animals are fure to retire in fevere weather. In winter, when the fnow is not very deep, and the weather inclinable to be fair and mild, the fheep are turned out to pick out what they can find under the fnow. If thefe animals happen to be furprifed at fuch times by a great fnow, they immediately form themfelves into a clofe, compact body, by laying their heads together in the centre. In this pofture they are quite covered with the fnow, and fometimes are lb benummed with cold, as not to be able to help themfelves, till their owner happens to find them, and clears their way out. This is often a work of fome days ; and many times the weight of the incumbent fnow is fo great, that the flieep are crufhed to pieces by it before they can be relieved. In the extremity of hunger, when they pafs fome days in fuch a wretched fituation, thefe animals have been known to eat one another's wool ; but this is apt to diforder them very much. On thefe accounts, upon any apprehenfions of bad weather, the inhabitants carefully keep their flocks at home. The wool on the furface of the fleeces is very coarfe, but that which grows near the bodies of the Iceland fheep is fomething finer. Thofe writers are miftaken who tell us that all the flieep in this ifland have horns : Some few of them, indeed, have been feen with five, and fome with four horns; but they commonly have but two as in other countries. As for goats, here is no great number of them. Even fome of the Iceland oxen and cows have no horns; and, in the fouthern parts, they are fed with fifh-bones and the water in which the fifh was boiled. Here are no hogs. As for domeftic animals, a fuffi- cient number of dogs, and but very few cats are to be feen on this ifland. §. 10. The keeping of poultry and other tame fowl is fo expenfive, that very few of them are feen here : But plenty of fwans, wild geefe and ducks, among which may alio be reckoned the Eider (the eggs and feathers of which are fo much valued) fnipes, woodcocks, &c. are to be met with in Iceland. At certain times an incredible number of eggs of fea-fowl, which the inhabitants are very fond of, are found along the lea-coaft. The birds F f 2 of 219 22Q NORWAY. [Iceland. of prey on this ifland are the eagle, hawk, raven, and falcon. Some of the lafl are entirely white; others are partly of that colour; and others are brown. Theie are accounted the beft falcons in Europe. In every Di- ftricl: there are certain falconers, who alone are impowered to catch falcons. Thefe they carry to the King's falconry at BeJJeßader, where the' King's falconer, who vifits that place every year, picks out the beft. Then the Governor of Iceland pays the falconers fifteen rix-dollars for every white falcon, ten for one that it is partly white, and feven for a brown falcon. Befides this, the falconers receive a gratuity of five or fix rix-dollars when they firft bring them in. §. ii. The rivers, lakes, and bays, with the other parts of the fea, fup- ply the Icelanders with prodigious quantities of various kinds of filh. §. 1 2. They have always a fhort fpring and autumn in Iceland before and after the fummer feafon. The cold is fevere in winter, and the heat is very in- tenfe in fummer ; but neither of them is infupportable. During the fhorteft days in winter, the fun in the north part of the ifland is fcarce vifible for an hour above the Horizon ; but in the fouth part, it is feen for above three hours. In the middle of fummer the fun is not much above three hours below the Horizon ; fo that the nights, if I may call them fo, are very bright and luminous. The air in this climate is falubrious, and agrees very well with foreigners as well as the natives. §.13. The Icelanders are naturally of a robuft and vigorous conftitution ; but are debilitated by the continual fatigues and hardfhips they undergo at lea in their filheries; fo that about the fiftieth year of their age they are generally afflicted with various diftempers, efpecially thofe of the breaft and lungs : Hence very few of them reach to an advanced age. The Iceland women are not inferior to the men either in hardinefs or ftrength *, In cafe of ficknefs the Icelanders entirely refign themfelves to Nature and Pro- vidence ; for there is not one phyfician or furgeon on the whole ifland. There are, indeed, fome few perfons who keep medicines by them, with which they are fupplied from Denmark ; but they are not very well ac- quainted with the virtues of thofe medicines, or the method of admini- ftering them. The ufual food of the inhabitants of this ifland is frefh and dried filh, milk, oatmeal, and flcfb; but they chiefly live on dried fifh drefied with butter. It is remarkable that they eat all their provifions without any fait. Their common drink is milk, which they drink by itfelf when fweet ; but mix water with it when it turns four. They are very fond of beer and fpiri- * The author fays that the women are not fo robuft and ftrong as the men ; hut this is no more than what is obferved in every part of the world, fo that the obfervation is very trifling and impertinent. I therefore look upon it as an error of the preis, and have rendered the fentence in a different fenfe. tuous Iceland.] NORWAY. tuous liquors ; and the mod wealthy among the inhabitants fometimes purchafe red and white French wines. The Icelanders wifely content themfelves with what apparel their own country furnifhes. The cloth which they wear is called JVadmal; belides which, they alfo ufe a garment of coarfe linen. Some of the gentry affect to appear in cloths and fluffs made in Denmark, though a ftuff-manufaclorv has been lately fet up at Beßeßader. Their fifhing drefs is made with un- tanned leather, which is kept pliable by being rubbed with fifhes livers. As they are obliged to buy their timber of the Company eftablifhed here *, they build their houfes as cheap as poffible ; fo that they are neither very commodious nor hanfome. The occupations of the Icelanders are chiefly fifhing and grazing ; and when they are not engaged in either of thefe, especially in winter, the men, women, and children are employed in knitting woollen waiflcoats, {lock- ings, gloves, &c. and in weaving Wad-mal, or Iceland cloth. Their looms, indeed, are but very indifferent, but thofe made in Denmark now begin to be introduced among them. §. 14. As to the commerce of Iceland, the following particulars are to be obferved. In former times the Hamburgers, Bremeners, and the Dutch ufed to come hither to traffick. King Chrißian IV. deprived foreigners of this advantage in the year 1602, and erected at Copenhagen a Company for the Iceland trade, on which he conferred many advantageous privileges ; but in 1662, this Company was diffolved. Some time after a fociety divided the ifland into four parts and farmed it ; and fince the year 1684, the Ice- land trade has continued on that footing. In 1733, the Companv that farms it was eftablifhed by a royal charter and fliled the Iceland Company of Copenhagen. This Company every year fends twenty-three fhips with their factors and fub-fa&ors to all the ports on the ifland. The ports or harbours are divided into Fifh and Flefh-Ports : The former are fourteen in number and lie on the fouth-weft fide, and the latter are but eight and lie on the north and eafl parts of the ifland. Here are alfo fome ports, from which both fifh and flefh are exported. The Icelanders either barter their commodities for thofe of Denmark, or receive readv money for them in Danißo crowns and dollars in proportion to the hand-tax, or rate fettled by the King's Ordinance. The cattle are delivered to the factors at the Flefh-Ports about the latter end of Auguft ; and in the Fifh-Ports the factors purchafe all the found dried cod and ling, and train-oil, according to the fixt rate. Accompts are kept here, and all calculations made by Fißxs .* A Fißj (which is properly two pounds of fifh) being a Lub-Schelling; and conie- quently forty-eight Fijhes are equal to a Specie-Dollar -f, and thirty to a * See Introduflion to Denmark, p. 75. + A Specie-Dollar is about four {hillings and fix-pence fterling. Danißt 221 222 NORWAY. [Iceland. Danijh Crown. Danißj marks at eight Lub-Schellings are fometimes cur- rent here, and alfo, though feldom, tour Lub-Schelling pieces. A quarter of a Specie-Dollar, which is equal to twelve Fifloes, is the fmalleft piece of money current in Iceland-, fo that any balance under this not being payable in money, is made up in fifh or tobacco, the latter being fold at the rate of an ell for a Fiß. The exports from hence are chiefly dried fifh, falted mutton j a good deal of beef, butter, and train-oil ; a great quantity of tallow ; coarfe and fine jackets of Wadmal, woollen ftockings and gloves, red wool, fheep- ikins and lamb-fkins, fox-tails of feveral colours, feathers, and quills. The imports to Iceland are chiefly iron, horfefhoes, timber, meal, bread, brandy, wine, tobacco, coarfe linen, a few filk fluffs, and domeftic utenfils. In the year 175 1, in order to enable the Icelanders to improve their manufac- tures and to promote trade and commerce, king Frederick V. bellowed on them a bounty of 10,000 rix-dollars, befides a loan of 5000 more. §. 15. That the Icelanders are not wanting in mental endowments, evi- dently appears from the feveral learned men and ingenious artifts that this illand has produced. Several of their authors have written very elegant and accurate diflertations relating to the Northern Hiftory, which contri- bute much towards the clearing up the hiftory of Denmark and Norway. Among thefe, the celebrated hiftorian Thornwdus Torf aus, a native of Ice- land, has by means of fome ancient Iceland chronicles, thrown a great light upon the Northern Hiftory. The Icelanders began to cultivate the ftudy of Letters fo early as the year 1 130, which was about two hundred and forty years after that ifland was firft inhabited by a colony from Nordland. The moft ancient among them, whofe works are extant, are the celebrated Satnund Frode and Are Frode. 'John Mathiafon, a native of Sweden, was the firft who fet up a printing-prefs in this illand in the year 1 530, or 1 53 1. In every epifcopal See there is a public Lathi fchool erected as a feminary for the clergy ; and fome of the fcholars, after having gone through all the clafTes, are lent to the Univerfity at Copenhagen. Th Iceland dialect is the fame with the old Norwegian language, though at prefent it is not quite pure and uncorrupted ; however, what they ftill retain of the ancient Norwegian language is of great ufe to inveftigate the etymologies, &c. of the feveral Northern dialeds. 16. Lutherenijm is the only religion tolerated in Iceland. The churches of the Eaft, South, and Weft-Quarters are under the jurifdichon of the Bifhop of Skaalkolt ; and thofe of the North-Quarter are fubjecl: to the Bi- ihop of Hoolutn. The Iceland Bifhops cultivate the eftates annexed to their refpeclive Sees; and the annual produce of them is about two thoufand rix- dollars. Out of thefe revenues a ftated fum is appropriated to the Reclors and afliftants of the fchool, and the Preachers or Minifters of die cathe- dral. A certain number of fcholars arc lodged and cloathed, and the Bi* •? fhop's J Iceland.] NORWAY. 22- fliop's palace, &c. mult alio be kept in good repair out of the lame reve- nues. After thefe feveral deductions the remainder is the Bifhop't, income. Some of the Preachers or Minifters are liberally provided for, others but indifferently, and many of them very fcantily. Among the latter the cer- tain income of not a few is but four rix-dollars a year *. §. 17. As to the hiftorical particulars relating to this ifland; it owes its being firft peopled to the tyranny of Harald Pulchricomus King of Norway, which occafioned feveral perfons of note to quit Norway and feek for a new habitation. Among thefe were particularly two Nordland Gentlemen, called Ingulf and Hiorleif, who firft landed on this ifland in the year 870 ; and about four years after returned and fettled here, together with their fami- lies and dependants : And the places where thefe two families fixed their habitations ftill retain the names of their firft proprietors. Ingulf found the country quite a defolate wafte, and full of thick woods and forefb, but not without fome marks of its having been frequented by men before that time. About the middle of the tenth century, or very foon after that period, the light of the Gofpel began to dawn on this ifland ; but it was not till half a century after, namely, the year 1000, that proper meafures were taken here for the public eftablifhment of the Chriftian Religion. In the year 1057, the cathedral church at Skaalholt was built by Ißef, the firft Bifhop ofthat See, together with a public fchool. In the year 1 106, Hoolum was erected into an epifcopal See, where a cathedral and a fchool were alfo built. The Icelanders had been under an Ariftocratical government for about three hundred and eighty-feven years ; but in the year 1261, they voluntarily made an offer of their ifland to Haquin king of Norway, and continued loyal fubjecls to the kings of Norway his fucceffors, till, in 1387, Iceland, as a part of Norway, devolved to the Crown of Denmark, to which they have remained in fubjection to this day. The Reformation occafioned many tumults and infurreclions from the year 1539 to the year 1551, when it was happily eftablifhed in Iceland. In the year 1627, fome Aigerine pi- rates furprifed the ifland, and, after having committed the moft fhocking cruelties and barbarities, carried off two hundred and forty-two men as flaves. In 1687, other Turki/h pirates alfo landed here, and committed great ra- vages and devaluations. §. 18. The fecular government of this ifland is lodged in the Stiftamt- man or General-Governor of Iceland and Faroe, who ufually refides at Co- penhagen, and deputes under him an Amtman or Prefect: who lives in the King's palace at Bejfeßader. Here is alio a Land-vogt or Collector on this ifland who levies all the King's revenues, for which he pafles his accounts with the Refit-Chamber or Treafury. The Landvogt formerly ufed to live * About eighteen {hillings fterling. in 224 NORWAY. [Iceland. in apartments at Bejjcßader ; but he now refides in Widoe-kloßer. The le- venues of Iceland arife, i. From the farms of the ports or harbours, which amount yearly to fomething above 16,000 rix-dollars. 2. From the taxes and tithes, which according to the cuftom-of the country are accounted for in Fijhes, and farmed to private perfons. 3. From the farmers of the fequeftered convents and crown-lands. 4. From the King's boats. 5. The hundred and thirty-eight ells and a half of Wadmal or Iceland cloth, and eight hundred and ninety-two pairs of ftockings to be delivered in annually by every Syjfel ; and likewife a hundred and feventy-two pounds of filh payable by fome Syßels. Here are two Laug-mamier or Superior Judges, one of whom prefides over the South and Eaft-Quarters, and the other over the North and Weft- Quarters of this ifland. Each of thefe has ufually under him a deputy Laugmann or inferior judge. Laftly, here are one-and-twenty Syßelmanner, who are a kind of inferior officers like the Hardes-vogtey in Denmark, and alio levy the King's revenues as they are farmed in their refpedive Syßels, or Diftrids. There are eighteen SyJJ'els or Diftrids in Iceland; and as the Syßels of Mule and Skaßeßeld in the eaftern part of the ifland are larger than the reft, each of them has two Syßelmanner : There is alfo another SvJJ'elmann on the Weßman iflands. Every Syßelmann holds feveral Courts of Judicature, to which belong certain Didrids. An appeal lies from thefe to the Laugericht or Provincial Court, which is held yearly at Oexeraae, and begins on the eighth day of July. Every Laugman or Superior Judge de- termines the caufes belonging to his Diftrid, and has eight Laugericht- manner for his affiftants. The Supreme Court on this ifland is alfo held at the fame time and place, in which the, Amtmann or Prefed affifted by twelve Laugemanner fits as prefident. If the caufe amount to a certain fum fpe- cified by the laws of Norway, an appeal lies from this Court to the Su- preme Court at Copenhagen. §. 1 9. For the regulation of ecclefiaftical affairs, here is, firft, the Pro- voft-Court, confifting of the Provoft and two affiftants. The next is the Confiftory, which is alfo held at Oexeraae for the Diocefe of Skaalholt at the fame time with the Civil Courts. In this Confiftory the Amtmann or Prefed as the reprefentative of the Stift-amtmann or Governor, fits as pre- fident ; the Provofts and Minifters, and even the Bifhop himfelf, being only affiftants. In the Diocefe of Hoolum the Confiftory is held in autumn at a feat called Flige Myre, where the Amtmann or Prefed deputes another to reprefent him as Prefident. From the Confiftory an appeal lies to the Supreme Court at Copenhagen. §. 20. The capital punifhments inflided on male criminals in Iceland are, beheading with an ax, and hanging to a wooden beam fixt in the cleft of Iceland.] .NORWAY. 22$ of a rock; but females who have forfeited their life to juftice are firft put in a fack and then drowned. §. 21. Before I proceed to give a particular account of the four Quarters and remarkable places of this ifland, I (hall add the following general obfer- vations concerning the nature of the foil, and the inhabitants. The middle of the ifland is not inhabited ; the people living in the vallies, which lead to the lakes and extend themfelves on each fide of them. Thefe vallies near the mountains are four or five Norway miles broad ; and are properly the Svffels, to which other fmall vallies among the mountains where good paftures are found, alfo belong. From the mountains feveral brooks and rivers, in which are excellent fifh, run into the vallies. Of thefe rivers the moft remarkable in the North-Quarter are The Hruuta-ßardar-aa, which runs into the fea in the North -Quarter, and feparates it from the Weft-Quarter. The Blandaa in Hunavatns-Syflel, which is one of the milky rivers, as they are called from the chalky particles with which they are im- pregnated. Hierads-Votn in Skagafiardar-Syjfel : This is the largeft river in this Quarter, and petrefies wood when fteeped in it for fome time. The Jokul/aa i Axarfirdi. The Laxaa. The Skiaalfandafliot, and The Hinooß-aa. In the Eaft-Quarter are the following rivers. The Lagarfliort, a large river which empties itfelf into the fea in this Quarter. This river is much talked of for a prodigious fea-ferpent, of which, according to many fabulous ftories, it was formerly the haunt. The Jokul/aa a Br -eydamcrkur- fände ', over which there is a bridge of a prodigious height, built from one rock to another. The Jokul/aa in Loom. The Homaßardarßioot, which at the mouth of it is a Norway mile and a half in breadth, and Jokul/aa a Soolheimajande, which divides the Eaft from the South-Quarter. Thefe rivers emit fetid fulphureous vapours, which may be fmelled at the diftance of a Norway mile. In the South-Quarter the following rivers empty themfelves into the fea. The Markflioot. The Thioor/aa. Two rivers called Hititaa, which are both milky rivers, as they are called. In the Weft-Quarter the only river of note is the Kalldaloon. The number of inhabitants iri Iceland is, accordihg to an authentic com-' putation, about fifty thoufand. There are no towns, properly fo called, on Vol. I. G g this 526 NORWAY. [Iceland. this ifland : However, the houfes of the Iceland Company at the two-and- twenty ports or harbours, and of which there are three or four at each harbour, are dignified with the appellation of towns j though they are only Trading Places, by which name we fhall call them in the fequel. There are even no villages in Iceland j all the houfes being built feparate from each other. But, as many of thefe are compofed of twenty, thirty, or fome- times fifty fmall dwellings, they have fomething of the appearance of vil- lages. The whole illand is, in every Part or Quarter, fubdivided into pa- rifhes. §. 22. Iceland, according to the general divifion, confifts of four Quar- ters, which derive their names from the four Cardinal points towards which they lie : This divifion is caufed by fo many ridges of mountains that fepa- pate the Quarters from each other. The North-Quarter conftitutes the Diocefe of Hoolum, which contains a hundred and forty churches. The other three Quarters are included in the Diocefe of Skaalholt, to which be- long a hundred and fixty-three churches. 1. Nordlendinga-Fiordung *, [Nordre-Flerdlng,] or the North- Quarter, confifts of four SyJI'eh, or Diftricts, which are, i. Hunavatns-Syjfel, containing Skage/lrand, a Trading Place, and Flefh-Port ; and Tbijng-eyar [Thing-eyre] a fecularized convent. 2. Hegranes or Skagaßardar-Syjel t in which are the following places of note. Skaglnn, [Skaagen,] a noted cape, or promontory. Skagafiordur or Hojs-os, a Trading Place, and Flefh-Port. Hohim or Hootum, [Hoolar] an epifcopal See, with a cathedral. A fchool is opened here during the winter feafon, which was founded by yonas Aug- mundfon, the firft Bifhop of this See, about the year no6, and lince im- proved by king Chrifiian III. Here is alfo a printing-houfe, in which fe- veral good books have been printed. Reinenefzfladir, [Relnejlad] a fequeftered Convent, which was built about the year 1298. Hc/s-Jokul, a jfockeler, or mountain covered with ice and fnow, fituated in the middle of the illand; and Tindafiool near Skagafiord bay, where agates and cryftals have been found. 3. Vadla-SyJJ'el, [Vodle or Oeflords-SyfeL] Remarkable places in this DiftricT: are Flothorn, a head of land, or promontory. Wodru-Vellur, [Modre-Felle,] and Mimka Tweraa, which are fecularized convents. * The names firft mentioned arc the luland names of places, and thofe included in «rotchets are the Daniß names, 5 £.> ,24 o G R E E N L A N D. ■ deep : they are covered with dog-fif> fkins and high at the extremities. Thefe they make ufe of to convey their effects in their emigrations, or when they embark for the whale-fifhery, .and likewne in coafting from one port to another. The Green/anders are ftrangers to trades, arts, and fciences. They have no traffick among one another, and their commerce with foreigners is very inconiiderable. Their chief commodities are blubber and whalebone ; the' lea-unicorn's horn; the fkins of deer, foxes, and the dog-fifh ; which they exchange for neceffaries in cloathing and all kinds of ordinary do- mestic utenfils. They neither ufe nor have any knowledge of money ; but they fix a certainvalue on iron. When they meet together they exprefs their mirth by drumming, finging and dancing. They are accuftomed from their very childhood to an un- bounded liberty ; for they live according to their own inclinations, without any controul, or the check of parents or magiftrates; all of them being on a level. They have little regard to outward ceremony, politenefs, or de- cency. They are free, open, and cheerful in converfation ; and nothing pleales them better than merry jefts and rallery, by which that melancholy to which they are naturally inclined is diverted. They live very fociably, and repofe great confidence in each other. Amorous intrigues are feldom -or never heard of among them ; and as they abftain from theft, rapine, and violence among themfelves, they are never known, upon any pretence, to make war on their neighbours. They think themfelves greatly fuperior to the Danes, and make no fcruple to pilfer any thing from them when it can be done with fafety. But the great foible with which the Gree/anders, and efpecially the women, are taxed with, is an invincible obftinacy and inflexibility. They are fo unhappily ignorant in matters of religion, that they are faid to have no idea of a God * ; infomuch that their language has not an expreffion to denote a Supreme Being. They imagine that as foon as a perfon dies, his foul goes to Heaven, and there enjoys the diverfion of hunting from age to age, while the body remains behind and moulders away in the earth. §. 7. The hiftory of Greenland is not unworthy of notice. The Abori- gines or original inhabitants, who on the arrival of the Norwegians in this country were favages, feem, by the little knowledge the latter had of them, to be of American extraction. The firft that gave occaiion to the difcovery of this land was one Gumbiorn, a lea-faring perfon, who, after Iceland had been difcovered, failed further ; and came to an ifland, to which he gave * As the Grccnhnders have a notion of the feparatc exigence of the foul, after death, in a ftatc of fupreme felicity, which they term ' hunting in Heaven ;' it is reafonahle to fuppofc •hat the Dann milreprefent them with regard to their idea of a God, is'c. This is the more prohable, as the Gwnlandcn have fuch a contempt for the Dana ; and no doubt but the latter return it with averfion. v the G R E E N L A N D. 241 the name of Gunbiom's rock or Gunbiarnarfker. He alfo difcovered other land lying to the north of it ; but did not attempt to fail thither. As foon as this difcovery was known, Erick, a Norwegian , furnamed Rothkopf, or ' Red-head,' whofe father, Torwald, had been obliged to fly to Iceland on. account of a murder he had committed in Norway, took it into his head to go in fearch ofthat unknown land. The motives that induced him to undertake this expedition, were the ill treatment he met with in Iceland, and the three years exile to which he had been condemned. In the year of Chrift, 981, or 982, he fet fail from Snafelfnes on the weft fide of Ice- land; and fteering a direct courfe, he difcovered one of the Greenland ^moun- tains, which, at prefent, is called Blaferk. From thence he failed towards the South, and landing on an ifland, he fpent the firft winter there, and called it by his own name. In the two following years he gave names to feveral places ; and in the third fummer, the time of his banifhment according to the fentence being expired, this adventurer returned to Iceland. Some years after, he made another voyage to this country; and, from its fine verdant paftures and trees, gave it the name of Groenland or Greenland, and founded the village Brattalid on Ericksfiord bay, where he fettled. At Erick's per- fuafion feveral Icelanders, from time to time, emigrated thither from their native country. Fourteen or fifteen years after Erick had fettled in Greenland, Leif, his fon, failed from thence to Norway and acquainted king Olaf Truggefen with his father's difcovery and fettlement. The King having caufed him to be inftructed in the Chriftian Religion, ordered him to be baptized, and fent him back with a prieft and feveral Ecclefiaftics. Leif arrived in Greenland in the year 1000, and made his father a convert to Chriftianity, whofe example was followed by all the other Greenlanders *. In the year 1023, the Greenlanders became tributary to Olaf king of Nor- way; and in 1024, Afnaldtht firft Bifhop of Greenland was confecrated at Lund in Sweden. After this, the inhabitants of Greenland increafing in number, the colony was divided into the Eafl and Wefl-Greenland. Erick built the town of Garde in EafirGreenland, whither the Norwegians reforted once a year to traffick with the colonies. Some time after, the town oiAlbe and the convent of St. Thomas were alfo founded. Garde was the epifco- pal See, and had a cathedral dedicated to St. Nicholas ; befides which, there were two convents, twelve churches, and an hundred and ninety farm- houfes in this eaftern Divifion. On the weftern fide, called Weß-Greenland, were fpur churches and an hundred and ten farm-houfes. The kings of Norway alfo ufed from time to time to fend Stadthalters or Governors to Greenland. In the year 1256, the Greenlanders revolted againft Magnus king of Norway ; but in 126 1, by the affiftance of Erick king of Denmark, * I fuppofe the author means the Norwegian colony, fettled in Greenland, Vol. L I i they 2 4 2 GREENLAND. they were reduced to his obedience. In 1348, the black plague having fwept away the greateft part of the Norwegians, the intercourfe between Norway and Greenland was fufpended. The laft Bilhop fent thither from Norway was one Andreas who failed for Greenland in the year 1406. But no account was received of him till about 1 540, when the colony there was found to be ftill exifting. In the fubfequent time Greenland was in a manner quite forgotten. In the reign of king Chrißian II. Walkendorf, Archbifhop of Drontheim, exerted himfelf in attempting to reftore the communication between the two countries j but met with too many obftacles, to cany his point. Chri- ßian III. fent a party of men to Greenland ; but thefe returned with the trifling excufe, that they had not been able to find it. Frederick II. in 1578, difpatched one Magus Henningfen in queft of Greenland ; Avho, indeed, got fight of the land at a diftance ; but the ice prevented his" nearer approach. In the year 1 576, Martin Forbißxr failed from England to Greenland; but as the feafon was far advanced, he was alfo prevented from landing by the ice. However, by Queen Elizabeth's command, he made a fecond voyage the following year, when he landed in Greenland. King Cbriflian IV. lent out three fhips in the year 1605, under the com- mand of Godfche Lindenow who trafficked with the Green/anders, and brought five of them to Denmark. In 1606, the fame monarch fent five fhips thither; and foon after, difpatched two veffels more of a confiderable burden on a third expedition. That great Prince in the year 1616, fent Captain Munk with two fhips to Hudfons Straits, in prder to difcover the North-weft Paffage ; and it was that officer that gave the name of Cape- Farewel to the moft fouthern point of Greenland, becaufe he took his leave, as it were, of the old world at that Cape. The King having relinquifhed this undertaking, feveral merchants of Copenhagen fet up a Greenland Company; and, in the year 1636, fent out two fhips, which came to an anchor in Davis's Straits and traded with the Greenlanders. One of thefe veffels returned with a cargo of gold-fand: But as all the fkill of the Copenhagen goldfmiths could not extradl any gold from it, the Lord High Steward, who was prefident of the Greenland Company, ordered the whole cargo to be thrown overboard. This hafty procedure is fuppofed to have given him fome uneafinefs, when a kind of fand refembling that which had been brought from Greenland and thrown into the fea, was found in Norway, which yielded very fine gold. In the year 1654, a fhip again failed for Greenland, and another was difpatched in 1670. From that time the Danes gave themfelves no far- ther concern about Greenland. The old paffage from Iceland to Eaß- Greenland was fuppofed to be flopped up by the floats of ice ; and to this x day GREENLAND. day there has been no farther account of the eaftern part of Greenland, which is a hundred and fifty Norway miles diftant from the Daniß colony fettled there. However, it does not appear that it is quite uninhabited at prefent. There is an old tradition handed about in this country, fignifying that the inhabitants of the weftern coaft of Greenland, being furprifed by a clan of favages called Skrellingers, and their whole country laid wafte, the inhabitants of Eafi.-Greenland marched to their afliftance, when they found the country quite deftitute of inhabitants, only the cattle and flocks of fheep being left behind ; and that having killed a fufficient number of oxen, ÖV. they carried the carcafes away in their (hips. It appears by this account that the inhabitants of the eaftern part of Greenland were in Being fince the extirpation of thofe on the weftern coaft. After this, the weft fide of the country, to which one fails through Davis's Straits, was called New Greenland, in order to diftinguifli it from Old Greenland, inhabited formerly by a Norwegian colony; and thefe Straits are ftill frequented by the Hol- landers, who have in a manner engrofied the Whale-fifhery, and likewife the traffkk with the favages on this fide, entirely to themfelves. §. 8. Thus ftood the affairs of Greenland, till Hans Egede Minifter of Vogen in Norway, prompted by a laudable zeal to promote the knowledge of Chrift among the favage Greenlanders, made fome propofals for renew- ing the intercourfe between Denmark and Norway, and Greenland, which had been difcontinued for fome centuries. Moft of the friends and ac- quaintance of this worthy Divine, when they heard of his project, looked upon it as a chimerical undertaking. However, in the year 171 8, he re- figned his benefice in the fouth part of Norway, and removed with his wife and children to Bergen. His propofals did not meet with a favourable re-» ception either from the merchants or clergy of that city. He therefore went to Copenhagen in 171 9, and laid his plan before the King; who fent an order to the Magistracy of Bergen to propofe t© the citizens the erecting of a Greenland Company. This, after many difficulties, was at laft effected in the year 1721 ; and a capital of ten thoufand rix-dollars was raifed for that purpofe. The new eftablifhed Company fitted out three (hips for Greenland ; and the indefatigable Egede was fent thither as miffionary, and furnifhed with three hundred guilders by the Society for propagating the Gofpel, at Cope?;hagen. It was not without great danger and difficulty that the fingle (hip which had the Miffionary on board at length arrived off a place called Baals-Revier on the weft fide of Greenland, in Latitude 64 de- grees, and wintered on an ifland there. M. Egede and forty men who re- mained with him, immediately fet about building a houfe, in which the favages themfelves readily lent them a helping hand. This new colony was, from year to year, carefully fupplied with neceflaries by the Company; but the trade carried on with Greenland brought in no great profit. In the I i 2 mean 243 2 44 GREENLAND. mean while the Miflionary employed his time in learning tint Greenland language ; and by his liberality and fweetnefs of manners fo endeared him- felf to the inhabitants, that the refpecl: they (hewed him in fome particu- lars far exceeded his wifhes. For they entertainer! fuch an exalted idea of his piety and virtue, that all the fick flocked about him, imploring him to heal them, being perfuaded that his breathing on them would reftore them to health. In the year 1723, another Miflionary was appointed as an affiftant to M. Egede. Notwithftanding the King beftowed feveral pri- vileges on the Company, by allowing them a lottery, and by impofing a new tax on both kingdoms, which was called the Greenland-'fax ; yet the proprietors defpairing of reaping any great advantage from this trade, were averfe from making any new contribution to increafe the capital. Upon this, the King took the affair into his own hands ; and in 1728, fent feveral fhips and men with all neceflaries, befides cattle, horfes, &c. in or- der to eftablifh a regular and lafting colony, and to build a fort for its de- fence. His Majefty likewife fent two preachers on board one of thefe (hips. This new colony fettled on the continent about two Norway miles to the eaft of the old colony ; and fome time after, Nepi/ene, another inha- bited fettlement, was erected farther towards the North. In 1 73 1 a royal edict was published, enjoining all the king's fubjecls in Greetiland to return home, and the colonies were thereby diffolved. But M. Egede, being zealous for the falvation of the inhabitants, (laid behind, to- gether with his family and fome others who chofe to follow his fortunes. In 1733, the Greenland trade was reaflumed with great vigour; and the King granted a penfion of two thoufand rix-dollars a year to the Mif- fionaries. In 1736, M. Egede took his leave of the Green/anders, among whom he had fpent fifteen years with the moft indefatigable zeal and laborious application, but not without making a great number of converts, and arrived at Copenhagen; where he was appointed Superintendant of Greenland. To his felicitation the Seminary in that city for educating able Mifllonaries and Catechifts to be fent to Greenland owes its institution. The MiJJion- College alio fends young lads to Greenland to learn the language, and to be further inftruded by the Miflionaries there, in order to qualify them for that ftation. The Greenland trade is, at prefent, carried on by the Copen- hagen Company, who fend thither three or four fhips every year j and the Dutch are prohibited from coming within feveral miles of the colonies. §. 9. The weitem coaft of Greenland, as far as it is known is about three hundred Norway miles in length, and was called by Forbißer, or rather by his Miftrefs Elizabeth, Queen of England, Meta Incognita. The moft re- markable places on this coaft, or within Davis's Straits, are, 1. The GREENLAND. 1. The Staaten Hoeck, which is the mod fouthern point of the main land. 2. Cape Farewel, which is the extreme point of an ifhnd, between which and the continent there is a Strait feveral miles broad. 3. De/olation I/land. 4. The bay called Baals-Revier. 5. The Danißj fettlement of Frederich-Haah, or Frederick 's-Hope, fituat- ed in Latitude 62 degrees, where there is a Miffionary and a congrega- tion of Green/anders. 6. The colony of Got-Haab, or Good-Hope, is now eftablimed on the main land in Latitude 64 degrees ; but upon Mr. Egede's firft coming over it was fettled on an ifland. Here is the oldeft Chriftian congregation in Greenland, and a Miffionary. About half a Norway mile from hence lies 7. Neu Herrenhuth, a Moravian colony and congregation. This colony was firft begun in 1733, by a handful of Herenhuters or Moravians ; but is now grown fo considerable as to equal the four Daniß congregations. In the year 1749, a convenient place for the celebration of Divine worfhip was erecled here. 8. The colony of Chriflians-Haab, or Chrißian's-Hope, in Latitude 69 degrees. But the Miffion was fettled in 1752 at C/außjavn, four Norway miles to the Weft of Chrißian-Haab, where a Miffionary refides. 9. Jacobs-Havn is the fourth Danißo colony, and lies two Norway miles north of Claußoavn. 10. The fifhery and the whale-iflands, fituated in Latitude 68 and 69 degrees. Here the proper whale-fifhery is eftablifhed. 1 1 . The large ifland of Difco. 12. Baffins-Bay, difcovered in the year 1622, by Baßn, an Engliß- man. At the end of this Bay, a little beyond the 78th degree of Latitude, is Sir Thomas Smith's Sound, which is the utmoft verge hitherto fre- quented by the fifhing veflels, and where the largeft whales are taken. 245 THE THE KINGDOM O F SWEDEN. [ 249 ] A N INTRODUCTION TO THE DESCRIPTION of SWEDEN. §. i. O WE D E N is fometimes included in the general map of the >^ northern Kingdoms, and is alfo reprefented in particular maps ; among which that of Andrew Buraus is the ground-work of the later maps publifhed by De Wit, and Homann. There are likewife maps of the feveral parts of Sweden, by the fame hands, inferted in Bleau's Atlas. The lateft, and indifputably the beft maps of Sweden, are thofe published in the year 1742 by the Land-Survey-Office at Stockholm. To the fame fociety we are obliged for a general map of Sweden, including Finland and Nordland, which was publifhed in 1747. In this map the fmaller diftricls of the kingdom are fpecified ; but the greater divifions are omitted. A map of Upland and Sodertorn, of Sudermannland, Nerike, Weflmannland and Fierdhundra, Schonen, Malerfee, or the Maler-lake, with a plan of the city of Stockholm, and of the countries bordering on the gulf of Finland-, were alfo publifhed by the fame LandmeJJing-Contoir, or Land-Survey-Office. A fine map was alfo publifhed by M. "Tobias Mayer, in the year 1751, in two iheets, for Homanris heirs. Hitherto the abovementioned Office has not favoured the public with particular maps of the other provinces of Sntoeden. §.2. Under the name of Sweden we include that extenfive country which lies between Denmark, Norway, and Ruffia, in a fort of a curve, and is bounded, for the moil part, by the Baltic or Ea/l-fea. It extends Vol. I. K k about 2 5 o INTRODUCTION TO about two hundred, or two hundred and fifty Swedifl, miles *in length, and one hundred and thirty in breadth ; and the area of it, according to a geo- metrical calculation, is about ten thoufand fquare Swedijh miles. §. 3. The true etymology of the name Svenge, or Sweden, is not known with any certainty. It was anciently called Swithiod im the lan- guage of the country, which is faid to be derived from one of the names of the idol Odin. The inhabitants of this country were called, Swiar, which was, I prefumc, a contraction of the word Swithiar. Siecia in all probability is derived from Swethia ; the th being formerly pronounced with a fibilation •, fo that the fame word was fometimes fpelt with th, and fome- times with a c only. The ancient Sironen or Suenones alfo called themfelves Swenßar ; but the true etymology of the word Swenfl is alfo unknown. Some imagine the word Swen, which fignifies a young active man, or a ibidier, tobe derived from Swear or Swiar ; and that from Swcn the in- habitants were called Swenfleman, i. e. ' young and active men.' §. 4. The climate of this country is very healthful. The winters are indeed extremely cold in Sweden ; but the air is clear and falubrious ; and the inhabitants arm themfelves againft it with furs, iheep-fkins, cfr. which they wear according to every one's ability. In the long nights the moon, the reflection from the fnow, and the clearnefs of the fky make it fo light, that one may travel here as conveniently as in the day. In fummer the days are very long and the heat intenfe ; and the nights are luminous and exceeding pleafant. Violent ftorms and rains are feldom known here j and the iharp and keen northwind ferves to purify and refrefh the air. §. 5. The Swcdijh coafts are encompaffed with innumerable capes, iflands and recks, which they call Jkiaren or fleers ; fo that the approach to the continent is fomething dangerous. Thefe derive their names from the provinces oppofite to which they lie ; as the Ufland-flcers, the Suder wann 1 and, the Ea/l-Gsfhland, Böhm,, Nordland, and Finland fleers* Thefe iüands cr rocks lie verv near each other, and are of different dimensions. Several thoufands of them are inhabited, and the people live moftly by timing. The lakes in* Sweden alfo contain fome thoufands of iilands, of which the lead: are called Holme. The lakes are very numerous in this country and the largeft are the following, namely, Malar, Hielmar, Famund* Si'ian, Wetter, Wener, Frygen or Frflen, Ringfion, Stora Led, Stcijion, : : :^ra Avan, Stora Luleo-Trafl, Töfnea-Trajk, Knara-Trafl:, Ulea-Trajk, Pejende or Pajanafee, and Saima, of which an account fhall be given in their proper places. The number of rivers in Sweden is alfo very confiderable ; and the largeft rivers or ilreams are in the Swedifo language called Elbe. The principal of thefe are * Ton Sivedijh miles and a half are equal to a degree of the Equator; [Sec Tabl«, p. 25] fo that one Swedijh is at leaft lix E)'«H/1j links, i.. The S W E D E i\r. 1. The Motalaßrcw, which iffues from the IVctter-lske, and being in- creafed by feventeen fmaller rivers, forms a waterfall or cafcade from a height of fixteen feet, near Nordkioping, and empties itfelf into the Baltic, 2. The Stang, which divides Ofl got bland or can: Gothland into two pari 3. The Gothifche-Elbc, or Gothic river, which rifes in the Pfe/w-hke, falls into the North-fca near Gottenburg, and, about feven Swedißj miles and a half before it reaches that city, forms a cataract or water-fall by precipitating itfelf from a great height. 4. The Gullfpang, which divides Weßgothland from Wcrmeland. 5. The Dai-Elbe in Thai-Land or the vale country, which is the largefr. river in Sweden. In the defcription of the feveral provinces thefe and the other lakes and rivers, with every thing that is remarkable fhall be taken notice of Both the lakes and rivers abound in nfli of feveral kinds, among which the prin- cipal are falmon and trout of various forts. The beft falmon are taken in Hal/and; but in the Nordland rivers the falmon fifheries are in a declining condition. Sweden affords medicinal fprings of experienced virtue, among which that of Medewi in Eaß-Gothland is the motf famous. Here alio are a kind of fprings called Hunger-qnellen or dearth-fprings, fome of which indicate a fcarcity when they run over, or at leafr. when they do not overflow before the ground is entirely fpoiled by heavy rains and melted fnow ; and when other Hunger -quellen are dried up they portend a bad crop, as the neceffary con- fequence of a long drought or want of rain. §. 6. Sweden, though it be a very mountainous country, affords a great many tracts of even ground which are fit for agriculture. The foil is in general fandy, fwampy, or ferruginous ; but at the fame time is not void of fertility. Of all the divifions in this Kingdom Gothland produces the greateft quantity of grain, as wheat, rye, barley, oats, peafe, &c. but every part of Gothland is not equally fertile in corn. Sweden alfo affords good paftures, and fome orchards which yield very fine fruit ; but is more famous for mines in general, than for the fertility or produce of the foil. There is lefs arable land in the provinces of Thal-Lande than in the other provinces of the Kingdom, fome of which, befides tracts of fertile foil fit for tillage, have alfo good meadow grounds and paffurage. The Nordlands being full of rocks and mountains produce but little corn : However thofe pro- vinces contain fome fertile fpots for grazing. Lapland yields (till lefs grain than Nordland; but Finland is in moft places very fertile, though it is hitherto far from being properly cultivated. The corn, in the ihort but hot fum'mers of this climate, ripens very foon ; but is fo far from being fuffkient for the fubfiftence of the inhabitants, that feveral hundred thoufand tuns, or quarters, of corn are annually imported from abroad; particularly K k 2 near 25^ 2 5 2 INTRODUCTION TO near four hundred and fifty thousand tuns from Livonia, Pomerania, and Wifmar. Thofe among the Swedes who have the welfare of their country at heart, are at prefent ftrenuoufly promoting feveral good fchemes for the en- couragement of agriculture and manufactures. And if the fuccefs be anfwerable to the prefent favourable appearances, the produce of the country will commodioufly fupport fome millions of inhabitants more than it does at prefent and that in greater plenty and affluence. The King, in the year 1752, granted to the new fociety for the improve- ment of Agriculture a great deal of wafleland for forty or fifty years, rent-free and exempted them from taxes and imports. Hitherto confiderable advan- tages have been made of the Swedje-Land, as it is called, which name de- notes fuch fpots of land as are cleared in a foreft, by cutting down the trees, and then burning them, and ftrewing the afhes on the ground before it is fown. This fort of ground yields a great crop of corn, for three years after it is dreffed with the above manure. However, this method of burnino- the foil with hot afhes is accounted very detrimental, as no grafs nor wood will grow afterwards on the fpot ; efpecially if the ground be hilly and poor. The inhabitants of the north parts of Sweden eat a fort of bread made of the bark of birch and pine-trees, ftraw, and roots. The Hacke-brod or Stampe-brod is very common in the north, and is fometimes ufed in the fouth parts in time of fcarcity : It is made of the ears of corn cut from the ftems and minced fmall, and afterwards dried and ground. On this fort of meal they pour boiling water and mix it with leven and corn-meal, where it is to be had. In fpring they alfo take the bark of firs, as then it comes eafieft off the trees ; but not the thick bark next to the wood. Having pared off the outward coarfe knots, &c. it is dried in an oven, or held over a wood-fire, till both fides become brown, fwell, and undergo a kind of fermentation, fo that the refin be confumed. Thefe pieces of bark, being thus thoroughly dried, are ground, and then bread is made of the meal. But the dough is not to be kneaded fo much as that intended for Mijfe-brod. The plant Mißie, called in Latin Calla folds cordatis, and by the Finns, Wekka is gathered in the fpring in the moraffes. After it is dried in the fun, it is baked in an oven, or half dried in a warm bathing room, while it is fprinkled with bath-water. After this it is put into the oven a fecond time, and dried till the leaves fall off, and the outward tegument detaches it felf at the knots from the flem : Then the ftems are chopped fmall in a trough, and ground, and the meal is fifted. When dough is to be made of it, they pour hot water on the meal, and, to give the bread a more agreeable flavour, add fome brandy-lees to it. Afterwards the dough is kneaded with great labour, till it comes to be very tough, and as it were ffringy ; and then a third part of corn-meal is mixed along with it. §• 7- The S W E DEN. §. 7. The fouth parts of Sweden produce tolerable good fruit and efeulent vegetables : but towards the north thefe gradually become more fcarce, and degenerate in flavour and goodnefs ; fo that no fuch herbs are to be found in the moft northern parts of the Kingdom. Finland, however, produces excellent turnips. Flax, hemp, and tobacco are alio cultivated here to great advantage. The extenfive woods and forefts in Sweden become thinner, and daily decline ; which is no more than the natural confequence of the immenfe confumption of wood in making charcoal, pot-afli, tar, pitch, manuring the land, &c. Oaks, in particular, are very fcarce here. The inhabitants in feveral parts of Sweden fubfift by grazing ; but here, as I have obferved in all the northern countries, the cattle are fmall, and the wool of the (heep is very coarfe ; fo that in order to mend the breed of the latter, rams are imported from Spain, and England. The horfes are hardy, ftxong, and vigorous. Of the various advantages they reap from their rein-deer, I mall give a particular account in my defcription of Lap/and. This Kingdom affords plenty of deer of all kinds, hares, elks, and all forts of tame and wild fowl ; and fome parts of Sweden are too much infeiled with bears, wolves, foxes, linxes, otters, martens, and §. 8. Sweden abcunds in every fpecies of the three Natura' Kingdoms; efpecially thofe 01 the fcffile or mineral kind ; as cryftals, amethyfts, Lopazes, porphyry, lapis lazuli, agate, cornelian, a reddifh ftone called Violflein, a greenifh/£»K-pellucid ftone, Asbejhs, coral, load-ftone, touch-flone, fandy or free-flone, mill-ltones, ftucco-ftones, flate, lime-ftones, beautiful petrefa- tions, with coarfe and white marble. Two Sivedijh miles and a half from Nordkioping, in the forefl of Koohnole, or as others call it, Kalmaldcn, are large and deep quarries of excellent white marble, of an extraordinary hardnefs, with beautiful green veins, which are fometimes of a dark, and fometimes of a bright vivid green, finely interwoven together. Of this marble Mr. J. H. Sivers in his ' Short account of Swedijh marble,' printed in two meets in quarto at jNurenbefg, has given a particular defcription. Marienglas, called Mnfeovy glais or iiing-glafs, a rhomboidal fpar, Spall urn viride montanum, leis properly called gold-folder, and Spat hum cceruieum fnontanum, red, green, and blue fofhle colours, vitriol, Lac montanum or an argentine white earth, mercury, Amianthus, lead-ore, cerule, cobalt, alum, fullers-earth, petroleum, fulphur, mother of pearl, &c. are alfo dug up in Sweden. Many pearls of great vaiue have been found in the pearl-fifheries of Finland. In Smoland and the Lehn or fief of Bohus fait is boiled from the fea-water, but not in fufficient quantities to fupply the country. §. 9. The great wealth of Sweden ariles from its mines and metals. Some Gold-ore has been difcovered in Smoland. The largeft Silver-mine is near Sala. There are others at Hellefors, St crhaar and Skijhytte in Thal-Lande ; Norrefors in Eafl-Gothland ; Brattfors in Warmeland, where pure filver is dug up ; at Gißeby in Schonen, and in feveral 2 5. 2 5 4 INTRODUCTION TO federal parts of Lapland. Thefe mines are not equally rich ; and in Tome of them the expectation of future profits is greater than what they yield at prefent. The number of the copper-mines, hammering-mills, and fmelting-houfes is very confiderable ; and the richeft mines of this fort are at Falun, in which pure copper has been formerly found; but fuch veins are no longer to be met with. Iron-ore is here in fuch plenty, that it generally mews itfelf on the furface of the earth : It is alfo remarkable for its richnefs ; efpecially the Ocregrund iron-ore. The produce of the iron-mines conftitutes two thirds of the national revenues. The number of forges, hammering-mills, and fmelting-houfes in Sweden is about four hundred and fifty. The beft iron-mines are in Upland : But Wejhnannland carries on the greateft trade in iron. Lead is alfo dug up in Sweden in vaft quantities ; and moil: of the hammering-mills and mines are in the province of Sweden, properly fo called. The flourifhing ftate- of the Swediß mines will beft appear from an account of their produce for a certain number of years. t. The gold-mine, from the year 1741 to J 747 *, produced two .thoufand three hundred and ninety-eight gold-ducats -j-, 2. The produce of the filver-mine at Sala, from the yeaf 1743 to 1747, was eight thoufand feven hundred Lothige marks %, two ounces and a half; and that of Adolphus Frederick's mine, from the year 174'. to 1747, was about one hundred and eighty-fix marks five ounces. That of the North-tame, in fome years, amounts to forty-five marks. LofaiSs mine, from the year 1744 to 1747, produced about twenty-two or twenty-three marks. Near Hellefors feveral Lothige marks of filver are annually refined. The north Chrißilims, Meilern, Tirapen, and Silberhytta mines are two veins of ore called Mahnen, and contain generally froflM iixtv to leventy pounds of lead in every hundred weight of oar; and the' hundred weight of lead yields commonly from one to two, frequently from three to four, and fometimes from fix to eight ounces of filver. 3 . The produce of the copper-mines at Talun, from the year 1 743 to 1747, was about twenty-two thoufand eight hundred and feventy-nine pounds. The New Work, or Liufiiets mine, Garpenbergs, or the Old Work, and the copper-mines of Rltterhutte, Rocker, and Betnhige, Anes or Infw and LofeJh, Hakauboda, Lhifnedal, Liimgedal, Handohl, (iladhammar * The author exprefles himfclf very obfcurcly here ; for it is uncertain whether he means the annual product, or that of five years taken together. Nor does he acquaint us whether it is incluftve, or exclufive of the years mentioned above. f A £old ducat is about nine findings and four-pence fierling. 1 A Lcthige mark is equal to nine ounces twelve penny- weights Trey weight. and SWEDEN. 255 and Mortefer, from the year 1744 to 1747, altogether produced four thoufand and fixty-eight pounds of copper. 4. The iron-works yearly produce about two hundred and ninety-nine thoufand five hundred and thirteen pounds of iron which are fent to the forges ; and the whole quantity of iron exported in bars from Sweden, from the year 1738 to 1744, amounted to two millions one hundred fifty-four thoufand fix hundred and forty-one pounds. §. 10. Sweden, in proportion to its extent, is not fufficicntly people 1 Of this there is a remarkable inflance in one place, which, however, 1 . not the moft northern part of the kingdom, where hardly four thoufand feven hundred fouls are to be found in the compafs of two hundred and twenty-five German or geographical fquare miles. Some learned Swedes compute the number of the inhabitants of Swedem and Finland at about three millions ; reckoning eighty thoufand farms, on which are one million fix hundred thoufand fouls, (the women, children, and fervants included,) to make up above half of the number of the in- habitants in the whole kingdom. Others will have the number of inhabitants to be but two millions; reckoning the continent öf Swed.j and Finland to be about nine or ten thoufand fquare S-uwiijh miles ; of which at leaft four thoufand are level and fertile, and of thefe one thou- fand might be annually fown. Hence they juftly infer that the country might be made to produce fome millions of quarters of corn more than it does at prefent, and confequently might afford fubfiftence to a far greater number of inhabitants : Whereas, at prefent, fome parifhes are fo extenfivc, and at the fame time lb thinly inhabited, that a peafant muft travel feveral Swedifi miles to vifit his next neighbour ; and others contain but feventv and fometimes not fo many farms, which take up a tract of land equal tothewholeprovir.ee of Holland ; though perhaps fuch a parilh has not fo many wretched cottages as there are towns in that rlourilliing pro- vince. This confideration gave occafion to a propofal made in the Iaft Diet, that the peafants fhould divide their farms, and be permitted to take a greater number of fervants ; that proper meafures fhould be taken for preventing or putting a flop to the moft frequent epidemical difiempers ; and that all parts of the kingdom fhould be provided with fkilful mid- wives ; thefe being looked upon as the moft probable means for increafing the number of inhabitants in the country. The Swedes are robuft, hardy, and vigorous, and are enured to all kinds of fatigues Mid hardfhips, which they undergo with chearfulnefs. The common people here fubfift by agriculture, working in. the mines, grazing, hunting, fifhing, and commerce both domeftic and foreign. They traflick in the following commodities : viz. mafts, beams, timber for building, deal boards, the bark of birch-trees, tar, pitch, pot-afh, wooden. 256 INTRODUCTION TO wooden utenfils, baßßricke/i*, horfes, oxen, fheep, bacon, butter, cheefe, fait, hides, flax, hemp, linen, fowls, furs or the fkins of black, blue, white and crofs foxes, ermines, bears, martens, hyenas, otters, beavers, rein-deers, &c. which are produced in the feveral provinces. The nobility of this Kingdom are fo numerous, that the noble manors and feats in Sweden and Finland amount to eight hundred, to which feveral rights, &c. are annexed. The Counts and Barons, who have very considerable privileges and immunities, were firft created by King Erick XIV. in the year 1 561 5 and, at prefent, the former confift of fifty-eight families, whole names are as follow. Brahe, the principal in the king- dom. Deuenhaupt. De la Gardie. Wajaborg. Oxenßierna von Kroneborg, Stenbock. Duglas. Schlippenbach. Wachtmeißer von Johanßuß. Sperling. Bielke. Gulknßelpe. Bondevon Biomo. Gyllenborg. Meilin. Bolus. Giillenßierna von Biorkoßund. Piper. Frolich. Strotnberg. Poffe. Nieroth. Horn von Ekcbyholm. Spens. Cronhiel/n von Floßa. Von Ferfcn. Recn/lierna. Teßn. Meierfeld. Monier. Ducker. Taube. Sparre von Sandby. Bonde von Sajßaholm. Dohna. Sparre von Sofdeborg. Von Lieven. Creutz. Cronhiehn von Hakunge. Horn von Ranzien. Ekeblad. Lilienßeds. Lagerberg. "Torneßykt. Hord. Putbus. Von Duben. Bark. Von Heßfentein. Loeven. Von Rofen. Wrangel. Elirenpreufs. Ccdcrcreutz. Von During. Hamilton. * This is a kind of cordage made of the inner bark of a tree. Not S TF E D E N. 2 57 Not only the nobility and clergy, but alfo the citizens and peafants (the vafl'als of the nobility excepted) conftitutc a part of the States of the kingdom, as I (hall (hew in the fequel. The Swediflj language has fuch an affinity with the Danißi and Nor* ivegian dialects, that the inhabitants of the three kingdoms readily under- ftand each other : But Finland and Lapland have their refpective dialects. In the Pagan times the Swedes made ufe of a particular Alphabet termed Runor, or Runic characters ; as appears from the Rimenßeine or Runic ftones fet up near the fepulchres of the dead, which are ftill to be feen in moil of the provinces ; as alfo by the Runenflabe or Runic ftaves, on which a perpetual Almanack or calendar, with the ufual computation of time, was engraven in Runic letters. The Runenflabe is füll ufed in fome parts of Sweden. §. ii. This country was formerly involved in the groffefr. darknefs of Pagan idolatry; and Upfal was the feat of their fuperftitious worfhip. The Emperor Charles the Great, at die requeft of King Biorn, fent hither an eminent eccle- fiaftic called Herbert, who made known the glad tidings of the Gofpel in Ofl-Gothland ; and for the fame laudable end, the Emperor Lewis fent into Sweden the famous Anfcharius, who was fucceeded by feveral others. It appears that, in the middle ages, the clergy had got feveral large eftates and other endowments into their hands; and that the Pope aifumed a great power over the temporal concerns of the kingdom. Thele abufes procured M. Olaus Petri the more favourable reception in Sweden, who was a difciple of Luther, and promulgated the pure and uncorrupt doctrines of the Gofpel in this country. King Gußavus Vafa, by his perfeverance, happily introduced the Reformation in Sweden, notwithstanding the innu- merable difficulties he encountered with. And though the reformed religion met with great oppofition, and underwent many trials in the reigns of John and Sigifmund; yet it was eftablilhed at laffc by the Diet and Synod held at Upfal in the year 1593, when the States of the kingdom in a folemn manner engaged to adhere to the pure evangelical doctrine, as preached by Luther ; and this, iince the Decree of Uniformity of Religion which pafled in 1613, is both by the fovereign and his fubjects to be accounted the only eftablifhed church in the kingdom. In 1741, indeed, his Majefty was pleafed to permit, by a royal edict, the free exercife of religion to the Cahinißs, and the members of the church of England, in all fea-ports, except that of Carlfcron. As to the hierarchy in Sweden, it is as follows : One Archbifhop, namely, that of Upfal, who performs the coronation ceremony. Ten Bifhops, viz. thofe of Linkioping, Skara, Strengnas, Welleras, Wexio y Abo, Lund, Borgo, Gothenburg, and Calmar. Vol. I. LI Three 2 5 8 INTRODUCTION TO Three Superintcndants, one of which refides at Carlßadt, another at ILmofand, and the third in Gottland. The other ecclefiaftics in town and country are fubordinate to thefe, as the provofts, deacons, chaplains or curates, and the miniilers or incumbents in villages. §. 12. The Swedes are of late greatly improved in Arts and Sciences; but thofe branches of literature which they chiefly ftudy are the Oeco- nomics, Natural Philofophy, together with the Antiquities, Hiftory, and Geography of their own and other countries. Upfal is the mofl antient and confiderable Univerfity in Sweden, and is very liberally endowed. In the year 1728, a Royal Academy of Sciences was alfo founded in the fame city. The Univerfity at Lund in Schonen is ftiled Accidentia Carolina Gothorum. There is a third Univerfity at Abo in Finland. A Royal Academy of Sciences was alio inftituted at Stockholm in the year 1739; and the Memoirs ofthat fociety have been well received in foreign parts. In the fame city are the following inftitutions ; namely, Archives for antiquities, a Collegium Medicum, or Phyfic-College, a royal Academy for that part of the Mathematics relating to the military art. Another for Surveying of land. A Chymical and Mechanical elaboratory, and an Academy of Painting and Sculpture. Queen Louifa Ulrica inftituted an Academy for the polite arts at Drot- n'mghohn in the year 1753. Ghymnafia, or Seminaries for the education of youth, are inftituted at the following places ; namely, at Linkioping, Cahnar, Wexio, Gothenburg^ Skara, Carlßadt, Strengnas, Weßerchs, Gefla, and Hernofand. Cathedral or epifcopal fchools are founded at Upfal and Abo ; and inferior fchools at IFißy, Frofo, Ofele, Lyckfele, and 'Jockmock. There is alfö a Latin or Grammar fchool at Stockholm for the benefit of the Germans fettled in that city. An ordinance for the improvement and regulation of the art of printing was publifhed by his Swedijb Majefty in 1752; by which a new fociety was inftituted for that purpofe, regulated by proper rules for the managing of that art and the perfons to be employed in it. Here it may not be improper to take notice of what M. A. Birch, in a differtation delivered in the year 1749, obferves concerning the proportion that the ftudents in Sweden bear to the number of Aemts, i. e. Ports, or Benefices. He tells us that ia this Kingdom, exclufive of the German- provinces, there are in all three thoufand ecclefiaftical Aemets or Benefices 1 one tlioufand three hundred civil pofls which are filled with perfons learned in the laws ; one thoufand thee hundred military ports which are occupied by men of literature ; fix hundred offices relating to the fever al departments which belong to the government, and two thoufand fix hundred phyficians. a.ad furgcon*, §• *3> SWEDEN. §. 13. A few centuries ago there were no manufactures eftäblifhed in Sweden. The Hanfe-towns not only exported unwrought iron and copper from this Kingdom, but likewife the ore of thofe metals, which they fold again to the Swedes when they had wrought them into various tools and utenfils. The inhabitants of the coafts of Sweden were all fiihermen, and the towns had no artificers. In the reign of Gujlavus Vafa the Swedes firft began to work their metals and even their wood at home ; and towards the middle of the feventeenth century they begun to fet up all forts of manufactures in Sweden j but mod of the hands they employed were foreigners, particularly Hollanders and Flemmings. In the year 1641, a glafs-manufactory was erected here. The following manufactures and trades were alfo eftablifhed in the fucceeding years, namely the Starch manufac- tory in 1643; that of Tin in 1646; Bookfellers fhops in 1647; Needle and Silk manufactures in 1649; Leather-dreffing and Soap-boiling in 1 65 1 ; Sawing-mills in 1653; Iron and Steel manufactures in 1654; Sugar-baking in 1 66 1; and the woollen and filk manufactures flourilhed above all the reft : But in the wars under Charles XII. manufactures in general fell to decay. In the reign of Frederick I. all forts of mechanic trades and manufactures revived once more. The breeding of flieep was alfo regulated and encouraged ; tobacco was planted ; foreign artifls and manufacturers were allowed the free exercife of their religion ; and other ufeful regulations were made in Sweden. It was reiblved by the States at the laft Diet, which was held in 1752, to give all poflible encouragement to new manufactures that mould be fet up in this Kingdom. There are at prefent in Sweden manufactories of filk, cloth, cotton, fuftian and other fluffs, linen, fail-cloth, Morocco-leather, cotton-printing, dying; and alio for boiling or refining of alum, fugar, foap, and fait ; for {pinning, of tobacco; making glafs, porcelain, and brimftone ; here are alfo paper-mills, gunpowder-mills, fulling-mills, boring-mills, ftamping-mills, &c. Vaft quantities of. copper, fteel, brafs and iron, are likewife wrought in Sweden. Here are alfo foun- daries for great guns, pots, &c. forges for fire-arms, armours, anchors, &c. wire and flatting-mills, and the like. However the Swedes are not com- pletely {killed in the working of metals. Great numbers of fhips are alfo built, and wooden veffels and utenfils made in this Kingdom According to the computation laid before the States of the Kingdom, at the Diet held in 1752, the produce of the manufactures in Sweden from the firft of October 1739, when the Board for Trades and Manufactures was firft erected, to the clofe of the year 1750, amounted to twenty- three millions fix hundred forty-five thou fand four hundred and fort-nine filver "dollars*, exclufive of the profits arifing from fugar and tobacco; which * A filver dollar is equal to is, 6d. \ flerling. L 1 2 fum, 259 2 6o INTRODUCTION TO funij the fourth part being deducted for the purchafe of materials, makes a favingto the country of feventeen millions feven hundred thirty-four thoufand and fifty-feven filver dollars. The increafe of the filk, woollen, cotton and thread manufactures appears from hence, that in four years, namely, from j 74 1 to 1744, twenty-five Tons of geld -J- (filver money) and a quarter were expended for the unwrought materials. But in the four enfuing year? the fum rofe to thirty-fix Tons of gold ; and confequently the increafe was no lefs than ten and a quarter Tons of gold. The goods made of thefe materials being reckoned at three times the value of the latter, the produce of the manufactures for four years, namely, from 1744 to 1748, muft have increafed to thirty-two and a quarter Tons of gold ; not to mention the greater quantity of woollen goods imported on Swedijh bottoms. The white cotton imported into Sweden has not been of late fo confiderable as it was formerly ; the cottons flannels, and printed linens made at home being come into greater vogue. In the year 1754.it was computed that about one thoufand fix hundred and four perfons were employed in the filk manufacture, eight thoufand five hundred and fixty-feven in the woollen, two thoufand and thirty-four in the linen and cotton manufactures, and two hundred and nine in the hard-ware ; but few of the home manufactures are bought in Sweden, which is owing; to the extravagant demands of the manufacturers, who rate them at fifty, feventy-five, or even a hundred per cent, beyond the price of foreign goods. The planting of tobacco has increafed much ; efpeciallv near Carljhamn and Lund ; fo that the quantity of foreign tobacco imported into the Kingdom is decreafed by one half. It is of the higheft concern to Sweden to diverfify and improve their iron manufactures, that they may be able to fend a variety of iron-ware abroad ; as the iron-bar trade is con- fiderably decreafed fince the iron-works of RuJ/ia and America have been wrought. §. 14. Sweden is very conveniently fituated for commerce, as it lies be- tween the Baltic and the North-Sea. Befides, it has feveral large lakes and rivers ; and fome of the latter empty themfelves into thefe lakes, and others into the fea. A fcheme has been a long time on foot to avoid the pailage through the Sound., by carrying on the trade from Stockholm another way. The ihips bound to that port were to fail through the lake of Malar, and by the river and canal of Arboga into the H/elmar-hke, on which the towns of Oerebro is fituated, as far as the lake of Wener 3 and from thence through. Gothifch Elbe or Gothland river to Gothenburg, and fo into the North-Sea. But the execution of this important plan will be attended with great difficulties, by reafon of the vaft cataract in the Gothic-Elbe, called Trollhatta. However on the Carisgraben near Trollhatta, a fluice or canal, called Count Tejjin, f A Ten of gold, is one hundred thoufand Swtdijf) dollars at is, bd. f which is nearly aqua! to 7-75 7, ftcrlinir. SWEDEN. 25i has been completed; and towards the clofe of the year 1752, it was opened with great folemnity, and found navigable for veflels of burden ; fo that it promifes great advantages to the country by the incrcaie of trade. Sweden, for a long time, was without any trade or commerce ; and formerly ufed to be fupplied with foreign commodities by the Hanfe-towns, which, fo early as the year 1344, were endowed with feveral privileges, and ex- empt from paying any cuftom or duty in Sweden. At laft King Erich, a Pomeranian, perfuaded his fubjedts to carry on fome trade in their own bottoms, and to employ five or fix fhips for that purpofe. After this the trade of the ßanfe-towns very much declined, though Lübeck frill retained feveral privileges ; which, however, were confiderably reft rained in the year 1529, and entirely annulled in 1599 and 1600 ; from which time the Englifij and Dutch engrofled the trade to Sweden into their hands. Several commercial companies were alfo erected in Sweden, from time to time, as the South-Company in 1626; which, however, was diflblved. in 166 1. A College or board of trade was inftituted in the year 1637; and a treaty was concluded with Portugal in 1641, by virtue of which an African Company was erected, who built fort Corfo on the coaft of Guinea. In 1648, a Tar-Company, who were to buy up and export the tar produced in the northern provinces of Sweden, was erected. But all thefe Compa- nies in a fhort time came to nothing. In the year 1648, the town of Hchnfladt began to fit out fifhing veflels ; and even the Nobility joined with the Burghers in fitting out fhips j though foreign veflels were employed for fome time after. In 1667, a herring-fifhery was let up at Gothenburg. In 1666, fome Englißmen were encouraged to fettle at Helfinburg, where feveral privileges were conferred on them ; and in 1667, a Swedijh man of war firft failed to the Mediterranean. The long wars in the reign of Charles XII. proved extemely detrimental to the trade and manufactures of Sweden : But under Frederick I. they both revived ; and in the laft Diet it was refolved vigoroufly to promote the im- provement of trade and navigation. Certain towns which were allowed to import and export goods in their own fhips, and to trade both with natives and foreigners, are called Staple- towns, and are four and twenty in number. But thofe towns which lie near the fea, and yet have no foreign commerce ; and are permitted only to carry on domeftic trade, to have fhares in freight of goods, and to purhafe, by wholeiale the goods imported by the Staple-towns, are called Land- towns. Some of thefe are inland, and others fea-port towns ; others again are Mhie-tcwns, or belong to fome Mine-Diftrict. The chief Staple-tov in Sweden are Stockholm and Gothenburg. At the former are held the College of Commerce, the national Bank (which has often advanced. COJ.i. • 2 6 2 INTRODUCTION TO considerable fums of money for the fcrvice of the government, and has a fund of about fix million, of filver dollars, befides current bills to the amount of feventy millions, and an Infurance-office. In the latter, viz. Gothenburg^ are the Eafi-lndia Company which was erected in the year 173 1, and pays for every fhip that returns from India fifty thoufand filver dollars to the government; and a Levant Company. The Swedes even trade to China. But as this trarfkk runs away with a great deal of bullion out of the Kingdom, Baron Harlemann calls it ' a neceflary evil.' They likewise trade along the coafts of the Mediterranean, and to other European ports. The exports from Sweden are, iron in bars and wrought, other wrought m uals, timber, pitch, tar, pot-afh, falt-petre, gun-powder, cobalt, cordage, furs, .Mbmro-leather, as it is called, and dried fifh. On the other hand the imports are grain, flefh, bacon, cheefe, butter, tallow, fait, wine, brandy, drugs, hides, hemp, flax, wool, filk and feveral foreign manufactures. The prefent ftate of the commerce of Sweden was laid before the States in the Diet of the year 1752, by the deputation of trade and ma- nufactures ; by which it manifestly appears that the trade of this country has increased remarkably for fome years paft. The manufactures have been alfo greatly improved ; which has leffened the importation of foreign commodities, employed a greater number of the natives, and faved the nation great fums of money which ufed to be expended for foreign manufactures. The exportation of fome commodities has alfo lately increafed ; particularly iron ; which, not long fince, was fold at a low rate, when it was de- pofited in warehoufes belonging to foreigners; but now fells at a good price. However, proper meafures have been taken to prevent dealers from railing the price of this commodity too high, and thereby giving an ad- vantage to foreign iron- works. The courfe of exchange has alio, from time to time, been gradually lowered, and brought nearer to a par with that of other nations ; and lets fDecie now goes out of the Kingdom for unwrought materials and other neceflary goods than heretofore. From the year 174 1 101744, inclufively, the imports of Sweden exceeded the exports by fifty-eight Tons of gold iilvcr money : But in the four Succeeding years, the former exceeded the latter only by three and twenty Tons of gold; and of late years the balance lias been lefs confiderable. Provisions, raw materials for manufactures, and other neceflaries are now purchafed at the firSr. hand, and imported into the Kingdom in Swedijh bottoms ; in which the home products are alfo exported. Laftly, the duty or excife on what is confumed at home is a rcftraint upon luxury and excefs ; at leaft, in thofe who affect it, it is made an inftrument of augmenting the national revenue. But all thefe advantageous infli- SWEDEN. 263 inftitutions, and laudable endeavours, cannot yet bring the exports and imports of Sweden to an equality ; the latter exceeding the former at leaft to the value of fix Tons of gold every year. Sweden exports annually to the amount of fix or feven millions, in metals, minerals, wooden ware, tar, pot- afh, &c. On the other hand colours for dying, &c. drugs, fpices, fugar, fait, foreign liquors, filk, and cotton drain the country every year of near twenty-fix Tom of gold and two thouland three hundred feventy-five fiber dollars , for as Sweden is entirely without fiome of thefe commodities, and has not a futficient quantity of others, it muft be fupplied with them from foreign countries. Befides thofe fpecified above, the following commodities have, in the fpace of four years, coft the nation two hundred and thirty-two Tom of goldand a half ; viz y Tons of gold. Silver Dollars. For grain of all forts 1 13, ,35, 320. For provifions 1 85,25,66 8. For Flax, hemp, wool, linen") , and woollen yarn, and leather J '" 4> 44* For fifh 3 3 „67,8 1 6. Total 2325,52,848. According to this calculation, thefe articles amount annually to fifty-eight Tons of gold and thirteen thoufand two hundred and eighteen Dollars, filver money. Luxury, vanity, and excefs in provifions, drefs, buildings, &c. rather increafe - y though woollen cloths and fluffs, the materials of which are pro- duced in the country, and manufactured by the natives, feern much better- adapted to the climate of Sweden, as well as to the intereft of the nation, than thofe expenfive filks, which the Swedes are too fond of. It muft however be obferved, that thefe calculations are not altogether accurate and unexceptionable; for the cuftom of ftating the balance of trade from the imports and exports, as they (land in the cuftom-houfe books, is far from being exact. According to the cuftom-houfe entries* Sweden muft be much poorer now than it was at the death of Charles XII. than which nothing is more improbable. The great difparity of the courfe of exchange is ftill an extreme detriment to the kingdom. The exportation of copper and copper plates has been prohibited fince the year 1 744, that commodity being, at prefent, wanted at home : Neither is the exportation of iron bars fo confiderable as it was formerly ; and- the like may be obferved of the iron and fteel-ware. A due equality of trade among the fever al provinces of the kingdom is alio wanting ; fo that one gradually drains the other, 1 Another 2 6 4 INTRODUCTION TO Another great impediment to theincreafe of commerce is the fmuggling of prohibited and counterband goods, to the yearly amount of five or fix Tons of gold; and this illicit trade is chiefly carried on by the Lübeckers. In order to put a flop to this illegal practice, it was enacted in l 754, That all foreign merchandife thus clandeftinely imported (hall, upon feizure, be not only confiscated, but packed up, fealed, and delivered in at the Manu- facture-Office erected by the government at Stockholm, in order to be fent to a Swedißj conful, agent, or commiffary abroad ; who is publicly to ex- pofe the commodities to fale, and to remit the produce of them to the äbovementioned Office. In the mean time, no endeavours have been wanting to bring the exports and imports to an equality, and by degrees even to turn the fcale in favour of the former. The means employed for this purpofe were, 1. The improvement and increafe of" agriculture; grain and provifions being the capital article of the imports. 2. The encouragement of fifheries; for which end, in the year 1745, a charter was granted to a Fifhing-Company ; and in 1752, feveral privi- leges were granted to all fifhermen that fhould fettle on the fea-coafts to follow that occupation. 3. The improvement of manufactures. And 4. The conftant employment of Swediß; bottoms for carrying on the trade of the Kingdom. §. 15. The Coins in Sweden are 1 . Gold ducats *. 2. Silver pieces ; as the filver Oer -j-, one of which is equal to four Pfennings, twenty of them to a Caroline J, and thirty-two to a filver Dollar ||. There are double and half Carolines, and alfo double fingle and half filver Oer current here. 3 . Copper pieces ; which are An Oer, which, like a Randfluck **, is equal to two Pfennings. An half; a quarter ; and a fixth part of Kupfer-Oer. A copper dollar -f-f- is about four Grofchen. 4. Imaginary money ; which are the Silver-Mark %%■> an d Copper- Mark || I! . The former is three times the value of the latter ; and fix filver, or eighteen copper marks is equal to a Specie Dollar or thirty-two Grofchen ^[. §. 16. All travellers agree in commending the roads for their goodnefs and lecurity, the reafonable rates of carriages, and the courteous civility of the people in Sweden. * A Ducat is about qs. 4^. fterling. f An Oer is equal to ,\ of a penny fterling. X A Caroline is about is. 2d. fterling. || A filver Dollar is equal to is. bd. | Engliflt money. ** Eight Rundftics make a penny Engliß). \\ A copper Dollar is equal to bd. I- fterling. %% A filver mark is equal to ^d. \ itcrling, |||| A copper Mark id. £. f About 11, 368 INTRODUCTION TO comes under deliberation in this Affembly ; but the King can propofe nothing in the Diet without the previous advice of the Council of State. §.22. The great Colleges or Councils of the Kingdom are i. The Council of State, which is the fupreme Council. The King himfelf prefides, and has two votes in this College ; where all national affairs, which admit of no delay, are determined by the tmjority of voices. 2. The Royal Courts of Juftice, of which the Sivedißi, properly fo called, is held at Stockholm, the Gothic at Jonkoping, and that of Finland at Abo. 3, The Royal War-College, which has the direction of all military 4. The College of Admiralty, which is held at Carlfcron. 5. The State-Office, in which the Prime Minifter prefides: The Secre- tary of State is alio a member of this College, that has the care of the records of the Kingdom. 6. The Royal Chamber of Finances. 7. The Royal Demefne Chamber. 8. The Royal Chamber of Revifion» 9. The Royal College of the Mines. jo. The Royal College of Commerce» j 1 . The Royal Chanceiy. j 2. The Office of the States. 13. The Manufacture-Office.. Foreigners are excluded from all pofts in the government of Sweden. §.23. The new Swedißo Digeft, or Book of Laws, after mature exami- nation in the Diets held in 1 73 1 and 1734, was allowed of by all the States, confirmed by the King, and promulged in the year 1736. It contains the new courfe of proceedings at law, whereby all law-fuits are brought to a fhort iffue, and eafily determined. The towns and Diftricts of the Peafants have their inferior courts, from which an appeal lies to the fuperior or provincial courts ; and from thefe again to the royal courts of juftice mentioned in §. 22, N° 2. In the village-courts of judicature twelve Peafants always fit, as afliilants, to try cauies. §. 24. King Giifiavus Wafa conliderably increafed the revenues of the Kingdom by fequeftering the church-lands ; and Charles XI. made farther additions to them by the re-affumption of the alienated crown-lands. By the New Inftrument of Government the ordinary revenues and out-goings of the Kingdom are placed upon the fame footing as they were in 1696. The ordinary and extraordinary national cxpences for the Kingdom of Sweden and the great Dutchy of Finland, for the year 1753, amounted to len millions two hundred forty thoufand four hundred and thirty-four filver SWEDEN. 269 filver Dollars*. But this fum could not be cleared by the ordinary national revenue, which does not exceed eight millions feven hundred forty- five thoufand feven hundred and eleven, including the fans allowed to the Kino- for his civil lift, which was little lefs than a million of iilver Dollars. The ufual grant to the King for his privy purie is about two hundred thoufand iilver Dollars, to the Queen one hundred thoufand, to the Princefs and Princeffes, the children of the reigning Monarch, thirty thoufand. The King has alio twenty thoufand filver Dollars allowed him for travelling charges. The fubfidies from France to the Crown of Sweden amount to three hundred feventy-two thoufand two hundred and twenty-two filver Dollars. The crown-debts are fo great, that fince the year 1753, the annual intereft of them has amounted to one million twenty-eight thoufand two hundred and eighty-fix filver Dollars, The far greateft part of this fum has been borrowed from the Bank, which, from the year 174 1 to 1753-f-, has advanced feven millions four hundred and forty-feven thoufand filver Dollars to the crown. §. 25. The Military Forces of Sweden confift partly of raifed, and partly of diftributed regiments. The latter form the greateft part, and are the national militia, which are maintained by the country according to an ordinance publifhed by Charles XL That Prince obliged the Nobility and Gentry, as well as the Peafants, to provide and maintain both horfe and foot ; of which every province furnifhes its contingency. As for the infantry, every three Hinman provide a foot foldier, pay him his ftipend, and furnifh him with a dwelling and a piece of land ; but he has his accoutrements, arms, and ammunition, from the Crown ; how- ever certain provinces, in proportion to a contract made, alio contribute fomething towards thefe. The Crown alfo pays the principal and fubaltern officers, and fupplies the troops with provifions when they are on their march or in the field, unlefs at the rendezvous of the regiments and com- panies when they meet in order to be muftered. As to the Cavalry, the mufter-mafter is obliged both in time of peace and war to pay the troopers, provide them with quarters, and their hoffes with forage : He alfo keeps their arms and accoutrements in complete order. The field and fubaltern officers have alfo their feveral ftipends or rents allotted to them, as the common troopers. On a march and in the field the Crown provides fubfiftence and ammunition for the troopers, and forage for their horfes ; however every mufter-mafter is obliged to für- nilh his troopers with twelve charges for their mufket» "Jeiateland maintains Dragoons, whom the Crown finds in arms and cloathing. The Peaiants contribute little or nothing in that province. But the yemtlanders. were formerly allowed twenty Giver Doliars a man for thefe Dragoons. * A filver Dollar is equal to is. bd. 1 fVt;, as mentioned above. t '1 he Author does not tell us whether induuve or exclufive of thefe years» The ijo INTRODUCTION TO The Peafants may hire foldiers as labourers to do their work ; and when fuch a foldier rinds himfelf mafter of a fufticient parcel of arable and meadow-land, hfi generally marries ; and, by that means, helps to people the country. As to the particular ftate of the forces, they confift, I. Of Infantry: And thefe are, i. Railed regiments, moft of which ferve as garrifons in the fortified places ; and two of them are cantoned in Ponura?iia. Among thefe are alfo the King's Life-guards, which confift of eignteen compnies each of ioo men, and are quartered in Stockholm, a^d feven o':her regiments fome of which confift of iooo men each, others of 1200, t*oo, 1800, &c. Men. Making in all — — — — 13,800 A regiment of artillery confifting of — — — 3000 This is the only corps of that kind in the whole kingdom, and is divided into twenty-fix companies of gunners, four companies for fire-works, and four of pioneers. Thefe are upon the lame duty as the infantry, and alfo have the fame pay. 2. The diftributed regiments, which are one-and-twenty in number, exclufive of Kymmengard'^ batallion of 128 men. Each of thefe regiments confifts of eight companies, excepting the regiments of Nerike and Weremehmd, which have ten companies each. The complement of the leaft of them is 1025 men, and of the largeft regiment 1200, exclufive of the above named two regiments, which have 1674 men each. Altogether making — — 2 4>238 Confequently the Infantry amount in all to — — 41,038. II. Of Cavalry, which confifts 1 . Of feven regiments and one company. The King's regiment of Life-guards confifts of twelve troops, or 1505 men; the Standard of the Nobility, as it is called, of fix troops, or 42 1 men ; and the other regiments of eight troops, or 1000 men each. Confequently the whole body of the Cavalry makes — — 7026 2. Of Dragoons, which confift of three regiments and one fquadron of 250 men, and altogether amount to — — _ _ 3154 Hence it appears that the total of the whole army is - - - 51,218. In war time feveral extraordinary regiments are raifed, which amount at leaft to a number equal to this. The King's body-guard confifts of a troop of Halbardiers, and amount to 136 men, who ail rank as Cornets. The War-Office or College has the direction of the Military Forces, &c. and under it are the Commiflary of war, the ordnance and pay-mafter's Offices; SWEDEN. 271 Offices; thofe of the militia, the fortifications, ftores, camp, cloathing, quarters, &c. &c. An Academy has been ereded in Sweden, for inftrucling young Gentle- men in fortification, or military architecture, GV. The Arfenals of the Kingdom are at Stockholm, Oerebro, and Jonkioping : But the arms are chiefly forged at Jonkioping, Oerebro, Soderhamn, Nordtelge, and Nordkioping ; and are provided at the expence of the Crown by agents appointed for that purpofe. The foundery for brafs cannon is at Stockholm ; but the largeft iron guns are caft at Stafio and Akers ; the fmaller fort at the foundery of Jerendals ; the bombs and bullets at Frofwidal and Elfjhutte. A great quantity of falt-petre is alio made in Siicdcn, where there are five powder-mills. All the neceffary arms and implements of the army and artillery are made in the kingdom. A College of invalids is founded at Wadflena for twenty-eight field officers, nineteen fubaltem officers, and twenty-two private men, who are there provided with lodging, firing, provifion, and cloathing. Belides thefe,, above five hundred field officers, five hundred and fifty fubalterns, and four thoufand private men have penfions and fome other fmail gratuities or perquisites. The Government is now repairing the fortifications on the frontiers ; par- ticularly thofe in Finland, which are improved with the addition or new works. The laft Diet affigned, for the interval between it and the next, which will be held in 1755, twelve tons of gold in fiver money for the beforementioned ufes ; eleven tons cj gold, and forty thoufand filver dollars being appropriated to Finland, Schonen, and Gothland, and the remaining fixty thoufand filver Dollars are referved for the other fortifications. §. 26. The Swedijh Navy is diftributed in three ports. The main fleet lies at Carlfcron-, the fecend Squadron at Gothenburg, and the third at Stockholm. The whole fleet confifts of Twenty-four fhips of war from the firft to the fixth rate, carrying from one hundred to forty-two guns. Twelve Frigates carrying from thirty- fix to twelve guns. Four Brigantines carry from eight to fix guns, with ieveral Bcmb-ketcb.es,, and forty gallics. Sweden abounds in all kinds of naval ftores, and only wants a fufEcient; number of feamen. Thofe that belong to the royal navy have habitations provided for them in Ocland, Gott land, Balland, Bh ■ •//, ■ d 'pad,. Angermannland, and Aland. In the laft Diet it was refolved, to form a body of Sea-Cadets, who are to be under the direction of the college of Admiralty. §. 27. In the prefent century SwedenloU the following foreign dominions that once belonged to it, viz. Livonia, Ingermannland, and a confiderable part of Finland 3 the Dutchy of Bremen, and principality of Verden-, the city of 2 7 2 INTRODUCTION,^, of Stettin in Pomerania, and the Difiricls lying betwixt the Oder and Pene, together with the iflands of Wollin and Ufedom, and the Dutchy of Deux Fonts. Of its former conquefts it ftill retains Bohus-Lehn, a tract of land in Norway, part of Upper Pomerania, the ifland of Rügen, and the town of Wifmar. §.28. I fhall take no notice of the ancient divifions of the Kingdom, of Sweden, efpecially as opinions are divided about them. It conlifts at i refent of five divifions or General Provinces, namely, the Kingdom of Gothland, Sweden properly fo called, Nordland, Lappland, and Finnland. Tli>^e again with regard to the civil government are divided into twentv-four Particular Provinces ; namely, Upland, Stockholm, Sliaraborg, Abo and Biorneborg, Cronoberg, 'Jonkioping, Weßmanyiland, Nyjlott and Kymcnegards-Lehn, Ofl- Got bland, Si/dermannland, Nyland and 'Tawaßehus, Elfsburg, Cahnar and Oeland, Kopparberg, Nerike and Wartneland, Wcjl-Nordland, Wefl-Bothnia, Gottland, Mahno, Cbrijiian/ladt, Blekingen, Hallan, Gothenburg, and Bohus. Thefe provinces are fubdivided into Harraden, or Diftricls, and the latter into parifhes. * : S" w THE [ 273 ] THE KINGDOM O F GOTHLAND, In Latin Gothia, and in Swedifh, Gothaland, OTHLA ND to the eaft and fouth is bounded by the Baltic, or Eafl-fea-, to the weft by Norway, the Sound, and the German Ocean ; and to the north by Sweden properly fo called. Its Arms are Azure, a lion rampant going over three ftreams ; by which the Goths, probably, intended to denote their warlike prowefs, and the fuccefs of their arms in three of the principal parts of the world. Thofe fierce and warlike Goths who emigrated from hence, and fubdued fo many countries, are faid to derive their name from Goth, a fon of the god Odin, or from the Gothic word Gieta, i. e. ' to engender or breed,' on account of the furpriling fecundity and increafe of them in thefe northern climates. Goth/and had anciently its own Sovereigns ; but Suercher, King of the Oflrogoths, being proclaimed King of the Swedes and Goths in the year 1 132, both thefe kingdoms were united under one Sovereign. It is a very pleafant and fertile country, confifting of fine plains and inclofures ; ' and the greateft part of the corn of the growth of Sweden is produced here. It alfo abounds in lakes and rivers which yield great quantities of fifh, extenfive forefts, and rich mines. The number of towns in Gothland amounts to forty -eight. It is divided into Ofi or Eaß-Gith, ' ind, Weji-Gothland, and South-Gothland, of which I (hall give a particular account in their order. Vol. I. N n EAST- 2 7 4 & W E D E N. EAST-GO r H LA N D, In Latin Gothia Orienalis, THIS name, befides Oß-Goihland, or Eaß-Gothland, properly fo called, includes Smaland, with the iflands of Oeland and Gothland. To begin, then, with I. EAST-GOTHLAND, properly fo called, In Latin Oßro-Gothia. This country, which in former times was governed by particular Kings, and its own laws, is fixteen Swedißo miles in length, and fifteen in breadth. It pro- duces wheat, rye, barley, oats, peafe, &c. in fuch plenty as to fupply the neigh- bouring provinces with thefe feveral forts of grain. It has alfo many fine orchards, rich meadows and paftures, lakes and rivers abounding with variety of fifh, extenfive forefts, fome of which are of oak and birch, pro- fitable iron-mines, and foundaries; two brafs flatting mills, and other machines for the improvement of manufactures. The occupations of the inhabitants are agriculture, grazing, hunting, and fifhing ; and in fome places they are employed in the mines. The mountain called Amberg which lies about two Swedl/b miles from Wadflena, is of fuch a vaft height, that a perfon may have a view of fifty churches from the fummit of it. Upon this mountain is a flat ftone, under which one of the ancient Kings is faid to be interred. Among other remarkable mountains that of Thors-klint, in the parifh of Qwillinge, on which formerly flood a fort, deferves notice. In the foreft of Kalmarden is dug up fine marble, which has been men- tioned above in the Introduction (§. 8.) And the reddifh violßeinox violet- ftone, which emits a very fragrant fmell. Along the banks of the Wetter- lake is found agate, cornelians, touch-ftone and Klapperßein or rattle-ftones. In the iron-mines at Helleflad ftucco-ftones are dug up ; antimony is found in mount Amberg near the Wetter-lake, white lead at Stegeborg, and beauti- ful petrifications in feveral parts of this country. Among the twenty-three lakes, with which Raß-Gothland is watered and fupplied with plenty of fifh, the Wetter which lies between Eaß and Weß- Gothland is the moft remarkable. For it extends fifteen Swedißj miles in length and two and a half in breadth, and contains the iflands of Wifingfe and Stora Rocknen. It has but one outlet by the river Motala, though above forty little ftreams difcharge themfelves into it. This lake alfo lies feventy ells * higher than cither the Baltic or the North-Sea ; and is deep and clear, * About one hundred and forty feet probably, but the Author never informs us what ells he computes by. but E.Gothhmd.] SWEDEN. »75 but very boifterous in winter. It is alio fuppofed certainly to prognosticate the approach of ftormy weather. The rivers that water Eaft-Gothland are 1. The Motala, which receives feventeen rivulets: It iflues from the Wetter-lzke, and pafiing through the whole country empties itfelf into the Baltic. Near Norrkioping it precipitates its waters from a rock fixteen fathoms high ; and in ibme places its current fecras to ftand quite ftill. Here, and likewife where it iffues out of the Wetter-lake, is a fine falmon and eel-fifhery. 2. The Stang, which difcharges itfelf into the lake of Roxen below Linkioping, and divides the country into the eaft and weft parts. 3. The Moth, or Nibro, in which there is a pearl-fifhery. 4. The Karefbo. And 5. The Siena. Eafl-Gothland, with regard to its ecclefiaftical ftate, confifts of one diocefc, which is that of Linkioping, and the fecond in Sweden as to precedence : It includes two and twenty provoftfbips. Eafi-Gothland is divided into one and twenty Diftricts which belong to the Hauptmamifchaft, i. e. Government or Prefecture of Linkioping. Seventeen of thefe Diftrifts lie in the eaft and north parts, and are included under the name of Linkiopings-Lehn or fief: And four lie in the weftern part and conftitute the Lehn or fief of Wadfiena. Linkioping-Lehn is fubdivided into three parts ; namely, I. Oeflan- Stang, which lies on the eaft fide of the river Stang and the town of Linkioping, and contains nine Harade or Diftricts, in which are the following places of note. Norrkioping, in Latin Norcopia, is a Staple-town fituated on the /iver Mo- tala, which here falls into the gulf of Bravicken. It is next to Stockholm in extent, is reckoned one of the beft cities in the Kingdom, and was formerly well fortified. In a Diet held here in the year 1604, Duke Charles was proclaimed King, and the famous hereditary union was enacted. In 17 1 9, this city was deftroyed by the Ruffians-, but has at prefent re- covered itfelf after that calamity, and is in a good condition. It contains five churches ; carries on a considerable trade ; and has a new and commo- dious key. Here are alfo two copper-mills, a fine hammer-mill for brats, a printing-houfe, feveral paper-mills, woollen manufactories, &c. Norrkioping is the third city that votes in the Diet. A view of it is to be feen in Dalhberg's Suecia. A little way out of this city lies the palace of Johannisburg, which, in 1 6 14, was built by Duke John of Eafi -Gothland -, but is now in a ruinous condition : And about a quarter of a Swediß mile from the city the remains of a caftle called Ringßaholm, are to be feen, on an ifiand in the river Motala. N n 2 Radga 276 SWEDEN. [E.Gothland. Radga lies about two Sivedifh miles and one fourth from Norrkioping. Here is the oldeft manufactory in the whole Kingdom. Soderkioping, in Latin Sudercopia, is a ftaple town fituated on a navigable river, and one of the mod: ancient cities in Gothland. It had formerly its own municipal laws, and was in a much more flouriihing condition than it is at prefent. Two kings were crowned, and, in 1595, a Diet was held in this town. It has at prefent but two churches. Without the town near the eaft toll-houfe is the fpring called Ragni/d's well, ornamented with a little tower. This fpring both in winter and fummer continually runs through two pipes, and forms a rivulet. Soderkioping is the thirty-fifth, in order, of the towns, which vote at the Diet. Dahlberg has given a profpecl: of this city in his Suecia. Among the Oßro-Gotbland fleers or rocks are the following places of note. The noble quarries of marble, which is polifhed at a place about two Swcdifl miles from Norrkioping. The royal palace of Stegeborg, whither the Kings and great men ufed to withdraw for fafety in troublefome times. Barefund, a ftrait through which fhips have a fafe pafläge from the main fea up to the two cities above-mentioned. Here is a cuftom-houfe, where all fhips that pafs this way are fearched. The crown lands of Braborg, the old palace belonging to which the RuJJians deftroyed in 171 9. Skenas, another royal eftate, whofe fine manfion-houfe was likewife burnt by the Rußans. Gufum, a curious brafs flatting-mill. The large and famous plain of Bratval/a, in the Diftrict of Wikebo, where, in the year of Chrift three hundred and feventy-five, a moft bloody battle was fought between the Swedes and Danes, in which the latter were defeated. 2. Weflan-Stang lies on the weft fide of the river Stang and the city of Linkioping; and is divided into feven Diftricts, containing the following remarkable places. Linkioping, in Latin Lincopia, a very ancient town fituated on the banks of the river Stang, not far from the Roxen-\ake. The caftle of Linkioping was built about the clofe of the fifteenth century ; and was once burnt down, but has been fince well repaired. The cathedral was four times confumed by fire from the year J416 to 1567. This city is a bifhop's fee, and has three churches ; a gymmfmm or feminary with feven mafters, which was erected in 1628 ; a library near the cathedral, and a printing- houfe. There, are, however, but few mechanics and not one phyfician at Linkioping. The governor of Eafl-Gothland refides in this town. In the popifli E.Gothland.] SWEDEN. 277 popifh times * this city had feveral convents and chapels. One of the Kings was crowned, and, in the year 1600, a remarkable Diet held at Linkioping. This is the twenty-ninth in order of the towns which have a vote at the Diet : A view of it may be feen in Dab /berg's Sued a. Wardsberg-chuvch, which is one of the moft ancient in Eaß-Gothland, and is remarkable for the tower at the weft end of it, which was formerly a fortrefs. Wreta, a place where formerly ftood a celebrated convent, which was one of the moft ancient monafteries in the Kingdom, It was alfo the burial-place of feveral Kings ; but all that remains of it now are only fome ruinous walls, and the church, which is in a good condition. A perfpedive view of it may be {een in Dahlberg's Suecia. The monuments of King Ingo, Queen Helena, King Magnus, King Suercher, and King Ragvcald are to be feen here. 3. The Mine-Diftrids and Finfpanga-Lehn, on the north fide of the lakes Roxen and Glan. Here ftands the elegant palace of Fin/pang, with the elevation of which Dalhberg has embellifhed his Suecia. The Wadstena-Lehn is divided into four Diftrids, in which the places of note are, Skeninge, in Latin Skeningia, an ancient town fituated in a fertile country on the river Skena. It was formerly a large and opulent city embelliftied with feveral churches and convents ; but is now very much declined from its former flourifhing condition. The annual fair held here on the twenty-ninth of "July is, however, one of the greateft in the whole Kingdom. In the year 1248, a general council was held here purfuant to a bull of Pope Innocent IV. In that council the marriage of the clergy was prohibited as unlawful. Among the towns which have a vote in the Diet, this is the forty-ninth in order. Dahlberg has given us a perfpedive view of Skeninge in his Suecia. Wadßena, in Latin Wadßenum, is very pleafantly fituated on the Wetter-lake. In ancient times here ftood the caftle of Sufenborg. The celebrated ancient convent of St. Brita which ftands in this town, and was inhabited by Monks and Nuns, was in Queen Chriflinas time converted to an hofpital of invalids for the foldiery. But a nunnery has fince been ereded here. In the convent church which is large and elegant, feveral royal pcrfonages are interred. The caftle of Wadßena is an ancient ftrudure; and makes a grand figure with its moats, redoubts, and drawbridges. It was built in the year 1545. A muflin manufadure has been lately fet up in this town. In the year 1567, this place was burnt by the Danes. Three remarkable Diets have been held at Wadßena, which is the forty-eighth in order, of * The author is fo complaifant as to call the times of popifli idolatory and fuperftriort Catholic times. If any thing could make thofe dark ages deferve the name of Catholic it was the ignorance which universally prevailed in moft parts of the world. the 2 7 8 SWEDEN. [Smaland. the towns that have a voice at the Diet. Dahlberg has inferted a perfpe&ive view of this town in his Suecia. The royal palaces of Starby, Hafgarden, and Stoßorp. The ruins of the ancient grand convent of Alwajlra, in which four Kings of the Suercherian line, and other eminent perfons lie interred. Thefe ruins are alfo to be feen in Dalhbcrg's Suecia. Medcwi, the moil: famous medicinal fpring in the whole Kingdom, lies in a very pleafant fpot about three Sivcdißj miles from Wadfiena. Hunger --quelle ; another remarkable fpring, lies in the parifh of Nykirke, the water of which rifes and falls in the fame proportion with the Wetter- lake. Its rifing is fuppofed to portend a dearth ; hence it derives its name. The Royal feat of Motala, where fome remains of an old caflle which flood near it, are to be feen. Note. In the third volume of Dahlberg's Suecia are perfpe&ive views of the following places : The noble feat of Breborg, which is fituated near Brawi ken-bay. Stegeborg, a palace, which flands near a gulf of the Baltic. Allono, fituated on the fea coafl. Charlottenburg, which lies on the bank of the Motala. Skenas, which flands near the Brawiken-bzy. Kongs Norby. Jdingßä. Lofßad. Mauritzberg, fituated near the gulf of Brawiken. Norßjolm. Rono, a fine caftle. Tuna, which flands between the lakes of Roxen and Gardßon. Stiernorp, fituated on the bank of the Roxen-\ske. Sturefors which lies near the Erlangen-hke. II. SMALAND or S M LA N D, In Latin Smolandia. ^T^HIS country is twenty Swediß: miles in length, and twelve in breadth; ■*■ and was formerly governed by its own Kings. It was alfo for a con- fiderable time included in Eaß-Gotbland, and had the fame laws with that province. It was probably called Smaland, i. e. ' Small parcels of land,' becaufe in ancient times the country was fo over-run with woods and wafles, that Smahnd.] SWEDEN. 279 that the inhabitants could only cultivate a few fpots here and there between them : And even to this day one meets with large heaps of Hones in the woods, which were thrown together by the firft inhabitants of this country, in order to clear the ground. Though Smaland is mountainous, thofe parts which are cultivated and improved by induflry are very fruitful ; and it is particularly remarkable for fine paftures, which bring in great profits to the graziers. Here are large forefts of beech and other trees ; and alio filver, copper, and iron mines, &c. a great quantity of iron ore being found at the bottom of the lakes. A vein of gold ore has been likewife difcovered in this province. The high mountain of Hunsberg refembles a cone, and may be feen at the diftance of eight Swedijh miles. The inhabitants get a comfortable fubfiftence by agriculture, the mines, and efpecially by graziery. They alfo deal in planks, beams, marts, tar, pot-afh, iron, grain, cattle, butter, cheefe, flefh, bacon, tallow, hops, and fifh. There are one and twenty lakes in this province ; but they afford nothing remarkable. It is alfo watered by ten rivers, among which are The Emma, in which are caught great numbers of falmon and fliad. The Nifa. The Laga. And The Helge-a. The Swedes have a rhyming phrafe concerning the three rivers laft mentioned, fignifying that NiJ/a, and Laga have proved fatal to many, but Helge-a to a far greater number. Smaland, with regard to its ecclefiaftical State, confirts of two diocefeSj namely. 1 . That of Wexio, whofe bifhop is the fixth in rank in the Kingdom. This diocefe includes the Governments or Prefectures of Cronoberg and Jonkioping (excepting Sodra and Norra Wedbo which belong to the diocefe of Linkioping, and Moharad in that of Skara) and contains twelve Provoft- ihips. 2. The diocefe of Calmar, which is the eleventh of the Swedijh bishopries in order, and confifts of all the Prefecture or Government of Calmar, except- ing fome Diftricts which belong to the diocefe of Linkioping. The diocefe of Calmar contains eight Provoftfhips. As to the political divifion of Smaland, it contains three Prefectures, which include four and twenty Diftricts. The Prefectures are as follow. 1. The Prefecture of Calmar lies towards the Sund or Sound of Calmar and the Baltic or Eaß-Sea, it contains nine Diftricts, the ifland of Oeland, and the following places of note. Calmar, in Latin Calmaria, a fine Staple city, and one of the oldeft in Gothland, lies on the main fea, oppofite to the ille of Oeland. The form of it is nearly round ; it has fine regular ftreets, and about four hundred and ninety houfes. Calmar formerly flood on another fpot and had feveral churches 2 8o SWEDEN. [Smaland. churches and convents ; but being deftroyed by fire in 1 647, it was after- wards built on the ifland of ^warnholm. It is furrounded on the land fide with four walls, and moats; but has only one wall towards the fea. At the diftance of a quarter of a Swedifh mile from the town ftands the ftrong fort of Grimfiiar; and towards the North, on the ifland of Karinglaret, is alfo another fort. Calmar caftle ftands near the Sound or Strait, oppofite to the city, and has two ditches. It is fo well fortified, that it was for- merly not only the ftrongeft fort in the whole kingdom ; but when Schonen and Blekingen were difmembered from Sweden, it was looked upon as a key of the kingdom of Goth/and, and the moft important fortrefs on the frontiers. Hence, in all the wars with Sweden, the Danes have never failed to direct their forces againft it, and fometimes have carried it. In this city the famous union of Calmar was concluded between the three Northern Kingdoms ; and King Erick of Potnerania was crowned King of all the three. Several articles of the Convention of Calmar, concluded in 1474 and 1483, alfo received the fanction of laws. In the year 1495, a Diet, or affembly of the States, was held here. The Frefect or Go- vernor refides in the royal palace of Hofmo near this city. Here are alfo a Bifhop's palace, a Gytmiajium or feminary, a fine cathedral, and a com- modious key for {hipping ; and the town is furrounded with a royal chace. A great quantity of deal boards, tar, and alum, is annually exported from this town; which has alfo good manufactories of cloths and woollen fluffs. The Sound, which runs between the caftle and the ifland of Oeland, is called Calmar Sound, and is about a Swedifl mile over. A frefh fpring in the midft of the fea near this town deferves notice. In the Diet this is the feventh city in the order of voting. A perfpective view of it is to be feen in Dahlberg's Suecia. Bromfebro lies on the borders of Blekingen, and, as its name denotes, has a great bridge over a river which here difcharges itfelf into the main fea. A fmall ifland lies in the middle of the river, on which two ftones are erected for boundaries. In the years 1541 and 1572, a congrefs was held here to fettle fome difputes concerning the arms of the three Northern Crowns ; and in 1 645, a peace was concluded between Sweden and Den- mark in this town. Wemmerby, in Latin Wemmaria, a fmall, but very ancient town, ftands very high, and not far from the river Stang. Charles IX. raifed it from its declining condition ; lb that it is now the eighty-lecond of the towns that vote in the Diet. In ecclefiaftical affairs it is under the jurildiction of the Biihop of Linkioping. Dahlberg has inierted a perfpective view of it in his Siwcia. Hollawcden is a large foreft, in which the Danes were defeated by the Swedes in the fifteenth century. Weßenvicky Smaland.] SWEDEN, 2 Si Weflerwick, in Latin Weßerwickia, is a ftaple town fituated near a bay, at the entrance of which ftands Spareberg hill, which ferves as a land- mark to mips. The bay is called Sparejimd ; and near it is a cuftom- houie, where all homeward and outward bound fhips are fearched. Weflervoick formerly flood two Swedif miles higher up in the country, on the fpot where the market-town of Gammelly noW ftands. It has a good harbour, a commodious key, and a cloth-manufa&ure ; and carries a brifk trade in fhip-timber and all forts of naval (tores. As to ecclefiaftical affairs, it is under the jurifdi&ion of the Bifhop of Linki oping. Among the towns which have a vote in the Diet this is the twelfth in order. Dahlberg has given a perfpedtive view of it in his Suecia. Stegeholm, or Stakeholm, is a ruinous palace. The eftate belonging to it was twice granted as a County; but fince the year 1681, it reverted to the crown. Ofwrum, a foundery for great guns. 2. The Government or Prefecture of Cronoberg, which contains fix Diftridts, in which are the following towns, and places of note. Wexio, in Latin Wexionia, a town fituated almoft in the centre of the province. It is the refidence of the Prefect or Governor, and alfo a Bifhop's fee. It is faid to have been built in the reign of King Olaf Skotkonung, who, according to fome writers, founded this bifhopric in the year 989 ; though others affirm that it was firft founded in 1030. In the year 1570, this town was reduced to allies by the Danes. In the times of Popery here was a convent. A Gymnajium or Seminary was founded here in 16485 but the library, and the cathedral which was above nine hundred years old, and was the burying place of St. Siegfried its founder, were deflroyed by fire in J 740. Here is alfo fhewn the fpring in which St. Siegfried is faid to have baptized a great number of converts. This city has the thirty-third vote in the Diet. Dahlberg has given a perfpedtive view of it in his Suecia. Trojenborg is faid, in former times, to have been a caftle, and Troja a town near it ; its remains being ftill to be feen in the parilh of Nykirke, where the old fortification of Trolleborg, which was burnt in 1434, alio flood. Dahlberg has given a good draught of this part of the country. Cronoberg, which ftands on a fmall ifland in the Helge-\ake, was formerly a fine caftle. It was built, in 1002, by St. Siegfried, the firft preacher of the Gofpel in thefe parts, and was by him fettled on the popifli Bifhöps of this See. But in the year 1545, it was enlarged and walled in by King Gußavus I. and its former name of Bißopfberg was changed into that of Cronoberg. In the reign of King Erich XIV. it was confumed by fire ; fo that only the ruins of it are now remaining, which Dahlberg has inferted in his Suecia. However, it ftill gives name to the fief or Lehn of Cronoberg. Vol.I. O o Fallerne 2 8 2 SWEDEN. [Smaland. Fallerne is a famous medicinial fpring, about half a Sivcdi/Ij mile from Wexio. Ingelfiad is a noted inn and pofl-houfe, about a Sivediß) mile and a half from Wexio, and was formerly a royal palace, with a caflle. Browalla-Heide, or Broivalla-hezth, lies about two Sivediß) miles from Wexio, and is famous for being the place where the Danes were totally routed by the heroine Bknda, who commanded the Smaland women in the abience of their hufoands that were engaged in another expedition. As a recompenfe of their bravery the women of Smaland were honoured with extraordinary privileges, and wore a kind of martial head-drefs : And they have ftill an equal (hare of inheritance with the men. Dahlberg has added to his map of this country fome draughts of its antiquities. 3. The Prefecture of Jonkioping is divided into nine Diflridls, and contains the following towns and places of note. Jonkioping, in Latin Junecopia, a very ancient flaple town, fituated on a peninfula between the lakes of Wetter, Munk, and Rock. Jonkioping formerly flood in another place, but the inhabitants were removed hither in the reign of 'Gußavus Adolphns. The fuburbs, on both fides, are feparated from the town by a canal, which conveys water out of the Zi/Z-lake into that of Rock. In this town are three churches, an armory, an elabo- ratory, and an arfenal which belongs to the crown ; fire arms are alfo made here. The fupreme court of Juflice for Gothland, which was in- flituted in the year 1634, is held in this town; and ten provincial with forty-eight inferior courts, are under its jurifdiction. The Prefect or Go- vernor of this Lehn or Fief refides at Jonkioping. Here was formerly a mint, and a convent of regulars. The caflle, which is of great antiquity, after having been feveral times deflroyed, was rebuilt and fortified ; but at lafl, in the year 1737, it was confumed by fire, together with the arfenal. In the year 1599, a Diet was held here. Near the town is a royal chafe, or forefl, planted with oaks This town -has the twenty- feventh vote in the Diet. Dahlberg, in his Suecia, has given a view of Jonkioping. Ridaholm is a parifh, in which formerly flood a royal palace. Rumlaborg, or Romlaborg, is a ruinous royal palace and fortification, of which Dahlberg has given a perfpeclive view in his Suecia. Hufquarn lies near a cataract or water-fall, and has a fine powder-mill. Fire arms are alfo made in this place. All thefe are reprefented in Dalhberg's Suecia. Hwetlanda is a market-town, where feveral ruinous remains of an ancient populous town called Witala are to be \ccn. The pari(h of sllftvda, where, in 1738, the gold mine of Aedeljors was difcovered, which was wrought with great fuccefs. Ekefio, in Latin Ekeßoea, is an inland town of great trade in oxen, tapeflry, bedfteds, chairs, and other furniture. The Ekejio tobacco is alfo in great reo Oeland.] SWEDEN. 283 requeft. This town lies within the diocefe of Linkioping, and has the fifty-eighth vote in the Diet. A view of it may be feen in Dahlbcrg's Suecia. Grenna, or Brahe Grcnna, is a fmall town lying between the Wetter-Xakc and a high mountain. It is oppofitc to Wißngfo, and derives its name from Count Peter Brahe, by whom it was built. Gretma trades largely in oxen, and has a tobacco plantation. This is the ninety-eighth in order of the towns that vote in the Diet ; and has a place in Dahlberg's Suecia. Wifingfoy in Latin Wißngia, is a fertile and pleafant ifland in the Wetter- lake. It is a Swedißi mile long, and half a mile broad ; and was for- merly fortified with a fuperb caftle, built by the Brahe family, from which they had the title of Counts. In the reign of Charles XI. this ifland devolved to the crown ; and in 17 18, the caftle was burnt by the RuJJiaji prifoners. Here are a gymnafium, a fchool, a park, and a remarkable grotto called Gilberts-loch. This ifland in the twelfth and thirteenth cen- turies was frequently the refidence of the Gothic Kings. Note. In the third volume of Dahlberg's Suecia are perfpeclive views of the following Noblemens feats. Wifenborg. Wafiana, fituate on the Wetter-hks. Bei'qwara. Brokin. Braehaella. i Ekejio town-houfe. Brahehuus, which ftands on the Wetter-lake. Griepenben*. III. E L A N D. In Latin Oelandia. Hp 1 HIS pleafant ifland lies in the Baltic •, diredlly oppofite to the Calmar **■ Sound. It is fourteen Swedijh miles in length, and but a mile and a half over in the broadeft place ; and is divided into the North and South Parts. In the former are feveral fine forefts, and a great many ftone quarries ; but in the latter the ground is more level, and fit both for tillage and pafture. The ifland in general yields plenty of butter, honey, wax, and nuts. The Oeland horfes, or kleppers, as they are called, are finall, but ftrong and full of mettle. The King's foreft extends „.over the whole ifland. Here are alfo numbers of deer of feveral kinds, with O o 2 hares. 284 SWEDEN. [Gottland, hares, and wild boars. Both parts of the ifland abound in alum-mines. The Oeland Sandßein, or free-ftone, comes from this ifland, which is much harder than that of Gottland ; and alfo black marble, or touch-ftone. The Alga, or fea-weed, is ufed here, with pretty good effect, inftead of other manure. The inhabitants, who are faid to exceed feven thoufand fouls, have various occupations j being employed in agriculture, working in the quarries, cutting ftones, burning lime, fifliing, and navigation. The failor? belonging to the crown are generally quartered in this ifland. The four Provoftfhips, into which Oeland is divided, are in the Diocefe of Calmar. In the North Part, which confifts of three Diftricls, are the following places of note. Borgholm, which is a ftately royal feat and well fortified. It has been feveral times taken by the Danes ; but the Swedes have always infifted on its being given up to them again by treaties. When Charles X. was only prefumptive heir to the crown he refided here ; the revenues of the ifland being appropriated to that Prince ; and by his order, the old palace being pulled down, the prefent edifice was built. Near it is the commodious har- bour of Borga ; and a royal farm lies at a fmall diftance from it. Dalhberg, in his Suecia, has given us three views of this caftle. The royal palaces of Horn and Hahorp. Jungfrun is a high and dangerous rocky ifland in the fea, and has proved fatal to many fhips. It is about a Sivedißj mile in circumference, and lies at the diftance of three Swediflj miles from the north point of Oeland, On the fummit of it is a fmall lake. In the South Part, which confifts of four Diftricls, is the large royal farm of Ottenby, noted for its fine breed of fheep. iv. g o r r L A N D. In Latin Gottlandia. THIS is an ifland in the Baltic about eighteen Sivedlß miles in length, and from five to fix in breadth. From its convenient fili- ation it has juftly acquired the name of the Eye of the Baltic. It was formerly governed by its own Kings, and had its peculiar laws and pri- vileges ; but is now fubjecl: to the Supreme Court of Juftice at Stockholm. It is faid to have been called Gottlatid from having been the winter quarters of the Goths, when they put to fea on naval expeditions and piracies . The foil is fertile ; and there are fine woods of oaks and pines, good paftures, and profitable fiiheries on this ifland. In Burjhick are large « quarries Gottland.] SWEDEN. 2 g 5 quarries of ftone, particularly the famous Gottland-done, and a foft grey fandy-ftone, which are exported to Stockholm and other places. Here are alfo found fome curious fpecies of ftones, as ftone corals, and branches of coral ftones of feveral kinds, cornelians, agates, and beautiful petrefactions. In former times here were alfo fine marble quarries. Very good lime-ftones, tar, deal-boards, beams, turneps, and an excellent breed of fheep are exported from this ifland. Gottland is not infefted with bears or wolves ; but is fufficiently flocked with deer, foxes, and hares. The inhabitants fubfift by agriculture, grazing, filhing, working in the •quarries, burning lime ; and by feveral forts of mechanic trades, and na- vigation. The Gottland peafants fell none of their commodities to the in- habitants of the towns ; but when a peafant comes to a market-town, the burgher to whom he applies finds him in all neceffaries, gives him money to enable him to pay his taxes, and provides him with all neceffary com- modities. On the other hand, the peafant delivers up to the burgher all the produce of his induftry, without faying a word about the price ; and thus both parties ad: according to the dictates of natural juftice and equity. In the year 1361, Waldemar, King of Denmark, ravaged this ifland, and laid it wafte; but it ftill remained fubjecT: to the crown of Sweden. Albert King of Sweden, after an expenfive war, was obliged to mortgage it to the Knights of the Crofs in PntJJia, who, in confideration of a fum of money delivered it up, in 1403, to Queen Margaret, though with fome reludancy. King Erick, of Pomerania, after he was dethroned, with- drew to this illand, where he remained for three years : And when Charles VIII. was preparing to drive him from Gottland, and make a conqueft of it in the year 1449, Erick made an offer of it to Chrifiian I. King of Denmark. It remained in the poffeffion of the Danes till the year 1645, when, by the treaty of Bromfebro, it was reftored to Sweden. Round Gottlaiid lie twenty iflands large and fmall. The Superintendent is the fourteenth in rank ; and the diocefe is compofed of the city of Wisby and three Pro- voftfhips. The whole ifland forms but one Prefecture or Government, which confifts of two jurifdiclions and two Vogteys. Gottland is divided into three parts, namely, the North, Middle, and South Part ; the firft of which contains feven ; the fecond fix -, and the third feven Diftrifts. The only places worth notice are the following. Wisby, in Latin Wisbia, a very ancient ftaple city ; fituated in another place till the year 8 00, when the inhabitants were removed to the prefent town. In former times it was one of the Hanfe-towns, and made a con- fiderable figure in the kingdom. When Wineta, a place of great trade in the ifland of Ufedom near the coaft of Pomerania, was deftroyed by an inundation, feveral of its wealthieft inhabitants removed to Wisby. It was likewife frequented by Swedes, Goths, Danes, Normans, French, Englijh, Saxons, Livonians, Spaniards, Rußans, Greeks, and other nations. In the times 286 ' SWEDEN. [W.Gothland. times of popery there were three churches and five convents within the city, befides two without the walls. The maritime laws of Wis by were famous in all parts, and adopted along the coaft of the Baltic. The wall of Wisby, and the towers with which it is flanked, were built in the year 1289. This city continued in a flourishing condition till the year 136 1, when the Danes, making themfelves maSters of the town, almoft totally deflroyed it. Erick, the Pomeranian t built the caftle called Wisberg in 141 1, which was difmantled by the Danes in 1649. Here was formerly a good library, which contained feveral curious manuScripts. Wisby is the refidence of the Superintendent and Prefect, and has a church and a fchool : It is at prefent in a pretty flourishing condition. The harbour is fafe and com- modious, but not very large. Of the towns that have a vote in the Diet this is the fourteenth in order. Dahlberg has given us both a plan and perfpedive view of this city in his Suecia. The royal manor of Roma or Ruma-convent, where there is a Stately convent ; and Slotts-Ladugarden. Carlfwerd is a fort, built by King Charles X. on Ekeholm, near Slitehanm, which is the beft and largeSt of all the harbours in this DiSrric~t.. Far-o, a pleafant ifland lies about a quarter of a Swedijh mile from the continent. It is about two Swedi/lj miles in length and conSiSts of two pariihes. Sand-o is an ifland famous for a Seal-fiShery. The Great and Little Carls-Infel, or Charles's Ißands, lie about a Swedi/h mile from the coaSL Here formerly was a quarry out of which marble for building the churches in Gottlajid was dug up. WE S T-G O r H L A N £>, In Latin Gothia occidentalis, CONTAINS four Provinces, Weß-Gothland, properly fo called, Warmeland, Daland, and Bohns-Lehn. I. WEST- GOTHLAND* In Latin Weßro-Gothia. This Province lies below the Wener-hke, and is twenty Swedi/h miles in length, and fixteen in breadth. It was formerly governed by its own Kings, and had its particular laws and privileges, The foil produces fruit-trees, corn, and vegetables ; and the paftures are fo rich that grazing turns W.Gothland.] SWEDEN, 287 turns to very good account here ; fo that the inhabitants can fupply other parts with cheefe, butter, &c. the former being much admired. Here are iron and alum works, and paper-mills ; and near Gothenburg are fevcral fine fifheries. The occupations of the inhabitants are agriculture, grazing, fiihing, and traffick. On a mountain called Kina Kulle, between the lakes of Wcner and Skare, (which mofUy confifts of Hate, fand-ftone, and lime-ftone, and at the diftance of eight or nine Swedijlj miles off refembles a hat,) are five parifhes, and feveral Noblemens feats, with gardens and orchards. On the high mountains of Warkullen are thirty-eight churches ; and on Hunnebcrg, where the Huns were defeated with a terrible flaughter : are thrce-and-twenty lakes, and feveral rivulets which fet fix mills in motion. Some of the rocks on this mountain look like Ionic and Corinthian pillars. Hakla another hill, which ftands in a fine valley betwixt Hall and Hur.- neberg, like Moffeberg, is remarkable for a high precipice ; from which, in the dark ages of Paganifm, many devotees ufed to throw themfelves headlong, from a falfe principle of religion. The bodies of thofe wretched victims were firft warned, and then buried under the hill. Dahlberg has given us a fine view of this mountain in his Suecia. The WenerAdke is fourteen Sivediß miles long, and (even broad, and ebbs and flows in an extraordinary manner. This lake is ftored with great plenty of fifh. Four-and-twenty rivers empty themfelves into the Wener- lake, yet none flows out of it but the large river called Gotha-Elbe, by which outlet it difcharges itfelf into the fea. There are feveral iflands in this lake. In the year 1744, the Diet refolved to make the pafiage . from the Wener-hke and the Gotha-Elbe to Gothenburg, and from thence to Oerebro, navigable. The chief rivers in this province are, 1. The Halle. There is a view of the cataract formed by this river, in Dablberg's Suecia. 2. The Gotha-Elbe, or Gothic river, which iflues from the Wencr-\ake, and empties itfelf into the North-Sea near Gothenburg. About {even Swediflj miles and a half from its mouth is the ftupenduous cataract or. Avater-fall of Trollhatta. The water is here precipitated between two rocks, and confifts of three cafcades, each of which is about five fathoms high; but they are about three hundred fathoms from one another. Half a Swedijh mile from the water-fall, near the village of Rownam, is a bridge, built from one rock to another, over another high cataract formed by this river, at the bottom of which great numbers of fine falmonare caught; and two Swedißj miles lower down is another water-fall, where the boats and other veflels pais through three fluices. The two cataracts firft men- tioned make a fine appearance in Dahlberg'?, Suecia. The timber is floated to Gothenburg down this river ; and fince the time of Charles XII. a pro- ject has been formed to make it every where navigable. 3. The 2 88 .SWEDEN. [ W.Gothland. 3. The Gullffang, which divides Ea/1 '-Got 'hhm d from Warmeland. There are feveral other lakes in the province, bdides the Wencr and the Wetter. Weß-Gothland, as to its eccleliaftical State, is divided into two diocefes ; namely, that of Skara, which is the third in rank, and includes fifteen Provoftfhips ; and that of Gothenburg, which is the tenth in rank, and, ex- clufive of the city of Gothenburg, contains nine Provoftfhips. With re- gard to its political eftablifhment, this province confifts of the following Pre- fectures or Governments. 1. The Government of Gothenburg, which contains four Diftrids, and the following towns and places of note. Gotheborg, or Gothenburg, in Latin Gothoburgum, a Staple town, firft built by Charles IX. in 1607, on the iüand of Hifingen, about half a Swediß mile from the fortrefs of Ufsborg. But being deftroyed in the year 161 1 by Chrißian IV. the inhabitants about feven years after, in the reign of Gußavus Adolphus, were removed to the place where the town now ftands, and were favoured with feveral eminent privileges. Gothen- burg is the principal and moft opulent town, and carries on the moft con- fiderable trade of any city in Sweden, excepting Stockholm. It lies on the borders of Weß-Gothland, at the mouth of the river Moludal; which runs clofe by the north fide of the city, and by means of feveral canals is conveyed through the town. Since the year 1746, the greateft part of Gothenburg has been rebuilt with ftone ; and the ftreets are broad, and kept very clean. It is alfo regularly fortified; and on the land fide is defended by the two citadels called the Lion and the Croivn ; and towards the fea by the citadel of New-Elf sburg. The fuburb is called Haga. The Governor of the Prefectures of Gothenburg and Bohus, who is alio the commandant of the forts and fortifications, refides in this city. Gothenburg is alfo a Bifhop's See. Here are two Printing-houfes ; a Gymnafium or Seminary, ere&ed in 1648; an Orphan-houfe ; a City-church; an edifice called the Kroubaus, or Crown-houfe, where the garrifon attend divine fervice; a German-church. ; and feveral keys and docks. The number of the inha- bitants in this city is computed at 13,000. In the year 1635, a Mint was fet up in this town ; but it was deftroyed by a terrible fire which reduced this place to allies in 1669. Gothenburg was alfo very much damaged by fire in 1721 and 1746. In 1658 and 1660, Diets or aflemblies of the States were held here. In the year 173 1, an Ea/1-India Company was eftablifhed in this city, which has, fince that time, fent a confiderable number of fhips to thofe parts. In the fame year a Sugar-houfe was eredted in the Old town, as it is called, about half a Swedijh mile from Gothenburg, which turns out to a good account. It may be fappofed that a great number of fhips frequent Gothenburg, as the vefiels failing from all foreign fea-ports without the Cattegat, may enter this port without being obliged to pafs through the Sound, or the Baltic. The harbour is at prefent W.Gothland.] SWEDEN. 289 prefent an excellent one ; but the depth of water is faid gradually to dc- creafe in it. Here is held a College of Admiralty ; and a fquadron of men of war lies in this port. A brigade of Engineers, and a conftant garrifon are alfo kept in this city. In the year 1740, a General Court-martial, a Leu- teratirm Gericht or Court of Appeal, &c. were eftablifhed in this town. In the fame year, an iron weighing-houfe, two docks for ihip-building, and two woollen-manufactories were fet up here. Without Carlsport a fpring of medicinal water was difcovered in the year 171 1. Dahlberg in his Suecia, has given a perfpedive view of this city, and likewife of the King's, and the Queen's Gate. Gothenburg is the fourth in order among the towns which have a vote in the Diet. Gulberg, Gulbrandjhus, or Gulbergßxd, is a fortrefs built in the year 1304 by King Birger, and put in a defenfible (late by Charles XI. Kronan, i. e. ' the Crown,' is a fort built on a hill clofe by Gothenburg: It was erected in the year 1639. Neu-Elfsborg, an excellent fortification, built in the year 1646. It Hands about a Swediß mile from Gothenburg, and defends it towards the fea. Dahlberg has given views of thefe forts in his Suecia. Hifingen, is a triangular ifland, and lies between Bohus and Gothenburg, It is three Swediß miles long and one broad, and confifts of three Paßo- rates and feven parifhes : it is divided into Eafl and Wefl Hifingen. Nylodefe, in Latin Ludofia Nova, but now called Gamla-ßadt, or the Old Town, lies diredtly oppofite to the ifland of Hifingen. It was formerly a very flourishing town, being fituated on the North-Sea, and was governed by its own laws. This town was built in the year 1545. The burghers of Gamla, or Old Lodefe, obtained leave to remove hither, and live in New Lodefe for the conveniency of trade as it ftands nearer the fea. But the town being entirely burnt by the Danes in 1 6 1 1, the inhabitants withdrew to Alingfahs. Gamla-Elfsborg, or Old Efsborg, was formerly a town with a Strong caftle built on the fea-coaft. It has, from time to time, fuftained feveral lieges and undergone many fevere calamities ; particularly during the tur- bulent times in the fifteenth century. In the year 1563, this town was burnt, and the caftle Surrendered to the Danes; but was again reftored to the crown of Sweden. In 161 1, the Danes became mailers of it again, and, about two years after, it was reftored a fecond time to the Swedes. Dahlberg has inferred a view of it in his Suecia. Gamla-Lodefe, or Old Lodefe, was formerly a considerable and well fortified town, and lies about four Swedifl) miles from Neu Lodefe mentioned above. In 1296 and 1304, it was reduced to aShes; and, at laft, in the reign of Gußavus I. the inhabitants removed to Altßat or the Old Town near Neu Lodefe. However, it retained its ancient privileges till the year 1 646, when Queen Chrifiina reduced it to a manor or farm. Several re- Vol. I. P p mains 2 9 o SWEDE N. W. Gothland. mains of this town are flill viiible, as the ruins of churches, convents, walls, &c. Note. To this Prefecture or Government alfo belongs Bohus-Lchn. 2. The Prefecture or Government of Elfsborg is divided into thirteen Diftricts, containing, among others, the following towns and places of note. Wenersborg, in Latin Wenersburgum, a Landßadt * or inland town, lies between the lakes of Wener and Wasbobn, at the efflux of the Gotho-Elbe out of the former. It was built in the year 1642, by the burghers of Bretta, a town fituated about half a Swediflj mile from. Wenersborg. Ali the iron configned from Warmeland to Gothenburg paffes through this place» The Prefect, or Governor, of the Lehn or fief refides in this town, which was formerly well fortified. Among thofe cities which have a vote in the Diet this is the forty-fourth in order. Edsborg, or Edsholm, was formerly a round fortrefs environed with water, and the refidence of the ancient Kings of die Vißgoths. Alingfahs, is an inland town fituated on the banks of the river Sewelangay and was built by the inhabitants of Ny-Lodeß, after the deftruction of their town by the enemy. A fine filk and woollen manufacture is eftablilhed here. Tobacco is alfo fpun ; and tobacco pipes are made in thi3 town. Alingfahs has no magiftrates, but is fubject to the Justiciary of the faid manufactures, to whom are joined fourcounfellors, as alfiftants. This is the eighty-firft voting town in the Diet.. A view of it is to be feea in Dalhberg's Snecta: Borahs, in Latin Boercfia, is an inland town fituated in a mild and mountainous country, on the river Wiska. It was founded by King Gußavus Adolphus, and in the year 1622, endowed with feveral privileges.. The inhabitants of this town travel the whole Kingdom as pedlars, and deal in linen, &c. for which end they alfo have feveral privileges beyond, what other towns enjoy. Thefe itinerant dealers are fo accuftomed ta travel about with their goods, that they look upon it as fomething irreputable to flay at home even for one half of the year. In 1727, this town was deftroyed by fire ; but has fince been rebuilt and continues in a good con- dition. Here i3 a fpring of medicinal water. Borahs has the forty-third vote in the Diet. Dahlberg has given a view of it in his Suecia. £>uarfebo, where there is a Poft-Office. Kialeby and Alfwom, which aTe Crown demefnes. Vlricahamn is a very old inland town fituated on the banks of the AßundaAsks.. It was formerly called Bogefund; but its prefent name was given it in the Diet of 174 1, in memory of Queen. Ulrica Eleanor a. * Landßadt-, which I have rendered an inland town 3 is a place where there is a magazine for roods.. See Introduction to Sweden.- It W. Gothland.] SWEDEN. 291 It carries on a good trade in cattle, provifions, tobacco, &c. In the year 1520, a battle was fought in thefe parts between the Swedes and the Danes. Ulricahamn has the fixty-firft vote in the Diet, and has a place in Dahlberg's Suecia. Rinnaholm, or Rinnahus, is a ruinous frontier fortification. Oereflen is an ancient manor belonging to the Crown. A palace flood here formerly, near which King Chrißian I. loft a battle. The Lordfhip about it is called Oerefie-Lehn. Note. This Diftrict belongs to Eaß-Gothic thai-land. 3. The Prefecture of Skaraborg confifls of fifteen Diftridls, and con- tains the following towns and places of note, Skara, formerly called Skaurum, in Latin Scarum, is the mofl: ancient city in the country ; and was formerly the capital of the Kingdom of Gothland, and the refidence of many of its Kings. It had alfo feveral churches and convents, the ruins of which are flill to be feen. This town was totally deflroyed by fire in ij 19, fo that, at prefent, the number of its inhabitants does not exceed four hundred. Here is a gymnafium or feminary which was erected in the year 1640 ; and the cathedral is one of the largeft flrudures of that kind in the whole Kingdom. The Royal palace which flood near this city, and was built in 1545, was laid in afhes by the Danes, together with the whole town, in the year 161 1. A little without the town is a park ; and at a fmall diflance from it flands Brunsbo an epifcopal See. Among the towns which have a vote in the Diet this is the thirty-fecond in. order. A view of it may be feen in Dahlberg's Suecia. Scaraborg, formerly a fortified royal caflle, lies about half a Swedißj mile north of the town of Skara : Some ruins of it are flill exifling. Scaraborg Lehn or fief derives its name from this ruinous caflle. Gellaquiß, Gothala, and Axewal, were formerly fine caflles but now lie in ruins. Dahlberg has, however, beftowed a plate on the firfl and lafl of them. Hogentorp is an ancient crown manor which lies in a mofl delightful country. The manfion-houfe affords a view of two-and-thirty lakes. Here is a breed of Engtiß fheep for the ufe of the woollen manufactory at Alingfahs ; and likewife a plantation of tobacco, and a fine park. Warnhem was formerly a convent, built in the year 1 1 50, by King Suercher. Several kings lie buried in this monaflery. The church was re- paired by Count Magnus Gabriel de la Gardie ; and a profpecf of it, with draughts of the tombs of King Knut and Erich X. and King Erich XI. and alio Jugo and the above-mentioned Count, is to be feen in Dahlberg's Suecia. Hufaby, formerly a celebrated royal palace, was by King Olof Skot- konung converted into a Chriflian church, where together with his confort, he lies interred. This church was the firfl cathedral ereded in Sweden ; and Pp 2 Hufaby 292 SWEDEN, [W.Gothland. Hufaby was the moft ancient Bifhop's See, and had the firft Chriftian fchool in the Kingdom. Near the Bifhop's palace, which now lies in ruins, is the famous fpring called Siegfried's well, where King Olof was baptized in the year 1012. Dahlberg has inferted perfpective views of thefe places in his Snecia. Arenas, and Ingatorp, were formerly royal caftles ; but only the ruins of them are now to be feen. Gudhern was alfo a ftately convent ; and a view of its ruins is to be feen in Dahlberg. Lidkoping, in Latin Lidcopia, is a fmall inland town, well fituated at the influx of the Lida into the Wener-hke. The river divides it into the Old and New Town, which are both handfomly built ; and the ftreets are well laid out. Lidkoping is one of the largeft and pleafanteft market towns in the whole Kingdom. A very famous fair is held here annually on the twenty-ninth of September. The inhabitants of the town are computed to be betwixt four and five hundred fouls. It is the fifty-firft voting town in the Diet ; and the view of it makes a pretty appearance in Dahlberg's Suecia. Lecko is an ancient royal palace fituated on a delightful ifland in the Wener- lake. A view of it is to be feen in Dahlberg's Suecia. Gothßunda, a royal manor or farm, was in the time of paganifm a royal palace, where feveral Kings refided. Marie-flad, in Latin Mariceßadium, is an inland town, near which the river Tida empties itfelf into the Wener-hke. It was built by Duke Charles, who gave it the name of Marieflad in honour of his Dutchefs, and, in 1583, endowed it with feveral privileges. Before it a very fpacious prifon has been erected. Dahlberg has given a view of this place in his Suecia. Mariehohn is an eftate belonging to the Crown on an ifland in the river Tida, and the place where the Governor of the Lehn or fief refides. Hoffwa, which was formerly a town, but is now little better than a village, has both a Poft-office and Cuftom-houfe ; and the produce of the latter is pretty confiderable. In the year 1276 King Waldemar was here taken prifoner by his brother ; and a battle was fought in this place in ancient times between the brothers of Hading the Gothic King and Olof King of Denmark. Skiofde, in Latin Scedvia, is a fmall but ancient and well fituated inland town. Formerly the bones and other relicjues of St. Helena, who is faid to have been buried in the town church, which was founded by that faint in the twelfth century, were worshipped here with great devotion. This is the fixty-third town that has a vote in the Diet. Kungflena, is an eftate belonging to the Crown, on which ftands a large village laid out in regular ftreets. This place is noted for a fignal defeat the Danes fuffered here in the year 1208. 2 Hio, Warmeland.] SWEDEN. 293 Hio, in Latin Hiovia, a very old inland town fituated on the bank of the tFetter-foke. Here is a good falmon fifhery which is of considerable advantage to the inhabitants, who carry on fome trade befides. It is the fixty-fecond voting town in the Diet. Falkiop'mg, in Latin Falcopia, is an inland town fituated on a fruitful fpot betwixt two mountains, almoft in the centre of the Diftrict ; but no wood grows in this neighbourhood. A view of it may be feen in Dahlberg's Suecia. Near this town an obflinate and bloody engagement was fought in 1388 between King Albert and Queen Margaret, in which the former was taken prifoner together with his fon. The country about this town is called Falbygden. Carleby-Lafiga is one of the largeft villages in Sweden. Here Ragivald Knaphojde, King of the Vijigoths, was defeated and buried in 1132. Accordingly feveral tumuli, which were the graves of that monarch and other perlbns of diftindtion, are (till to be feen here. Note. In the third volume, of Dablberg's Suecia are to be feen perfpec- tive views of the following feats : Granas, which is fituated on the Anfen-laks. Nas, Hojentorp, and Hallekis on the Wener-lake. Hanfater, which is alfo fituated near the JVe?ier-hk.Q. Lindholm, built on an ifland in the fame lake. Mariedal, and Sundholm, in the Okcm-lake. II. TVARMELAND y In Latin Vermelandial FORMS a femicircle round the north part of the Wener-hke, ; and is faid. " to be about five-and-thirty Smoediß miles in length from Nafudden on the Wener-lake to Eljivedal, and twenty-four Swedijh miles in breadth from Nerike to the frontiers of Norway. It derives the name of Warmeland t or Wariemannaland, from the Gothic word Wara, Warja, or Warafl, which Signifies to defend ; the inhabitants of this country, which borders on Nor- way, having bravely defended it from the incurfions of their enemies. In the pagan times this province had its own Sovereign. This country is almoft every where mountainous; but the eaft and fouth parts are more level and fertile than the weft and north parts. However, the woods, and mines offilver, lead, copper, andiron, with forges, founderies, &c. belonging to them, furnifh the inhabitants of the latter with a greater va- riety of employments. In the year 1726, fome pure filver was found in an iron- 2 9 4- SWEDEN. [Warmeland. iron-mine not Far from Philip/ladt-, and the memory of this extraordinary circumftance has been preferved in fome medals itruck on the occafion. In this country are feen feveral tumuli or eminencies, which formerly ferved for juridical and fepulchral purpofes. The chief occupation of the inhabitants is mining, fmelting, &c. together with fifhing, and a little agriculture. Their trade confifts moftly in marts, planks, timber, the bark of birch trees, &c. The chief river in this province is the Clara or Stor-Elbe, in which there is a very profitable falmon-fimery. The principal lake, befides the Wencr above defcribed, is the Fryken, which is eight Swedißj miles in length, but narrow : It has a communication with the Wener-hks. by means of the river Noor or Fryks-elbe. As to the ecclefiaftical government, this province is a Superintendency called the Diocefe of Carljiadt, which is the twelfth in rank, and confiffs of Warmeland, and Thai-land in Weß-Gothland, It is divided into nine Provoftihips. The whole province of Warmeland belongs to the government of Nerike, and is divided into eleven hand and two Mine-Dißritts. i. Mellan-sysslet contains four Diftridls, and lies in the middle of the province. Places of note in Mellan-fyffel are Carl/ladt, in Latin Caroloßadinm, an inland-town, built by Duke Charles on the ifland of Tingwalla, where the river Clara runs into Wener-lake. It ftands in a very commodious fituation, has above eight hundred inha- bitants, a Superintendent, a fchool founded by King Charles XL a woollen manufacture, a good metal weigh-houfe, from which every year great quantites of iron and copper are exported ; and is a place of a confiderable trade. Charles the Ninth's palace, called Carlborg, formerly flood on the fpot where the church is built. There is a good medicinial fpring not far from this town ; which, in the order of the Diet, has the thirty-eighth voice. In the year 1752, Carljiadt was quite deftroyed by fire. Dahlberg, in his Suecia, has given a view of it. Warpnas is a village, where a market is held, and belongs to the parifli of Noor. 2. Oestrasysslet confifts of two Land and two Mine-Dißridis. Remarkable places in this SyJJlet are Chrißinaham, in Latin Chrißina portus, a town, in which a good market was formerly held. It was made a town in the reign of Charles IX. and had its charter of privileges, in the year 1642, from Queen Chrißina. It is built on the royal manor of Bro near the Wener-lake, and contains about fix hundred inhabitants. A great quantity of iron is annually exported from the Metal-Weigh-houfe in this town. Not far from Chrißinaham is an excellent medicinial fpring. This is the fixty-feventh, in order, of the towns Thai-land.] SWEDEN. 295 towns which have a vote in the Diet. Dahlbcrgs Succia exhibits a view of this town. Philipßadt, in Latin Philipoßadium, is a town furrounded with lakes and mountains. It was built by, and had its charter of privileges from Charles IX. who called it after the name of his foil Charta Philip. When this town was confumed by fire in 1694, its privileges were revoked ; and the inha- bitants were included under the jurisdiction of the Provincial Court. But in 1720 it obtained the privileges of a Trading Place ; and a Jufticiary, with an afiiftant, was alfo appointed to prelide in the court of Judicature that was erected here. Philipßadt is the feventy-ninth town that has a vote in the Diet. In Dahlbcrg's Succia there is a view of it. Nya-Elfhytta, a confiderable iron-foundery, ftands on the bank of the river Swart in the parifh of Carlfkoga.. In this place are caft excellent iron-floves, fmall field-pieces, cannon-balls, and grape-fhot, 3. Westra-sysslet is divided into four Diftricls, and formerly had two forts, namely, Eda and Moraß y but the former is now demolished. III. THAL-LAND or D A L A N D r i. e. The Vale-country of Weß-Gothland. '"T* v HIS province is called in Latin Dalia, in Swediih Dal, and derives-. •*• its name from the great number of vallies it contains. It lies between the }Fener-\ake and Bohus-Lehn, and is ten Swcdißj miles in length, and five and a half in breadth. Mountains and rocks conftitute the grcateft part of this province ; and mount Borekne is the higheft among the former. Here are alfo feveral forefts and woods. The plains and vallies that lie between the hills are fo fruitful as to fupply the country with plenty oi grain. The inhabitants fubfift. chiefly by agriculture, grazing, breeding of fheep, fifhing, weaving, working in the mines, &c. They alfo traffick in marts, deal-planks, tar, horfes, oxen, flieep, bacon, butter, cheefe, &c. The principal lake in this province is that of Stora-Led, which is about feven Siocdißj miles in length, but not above a quarter of a mile in breadth ;, and part of it lies in the province of Warmeland. The Clergy of this province, which is divided' into two Provoftfliips,, are under the jurifdiclion of the Superintendent of Carlßadt, of which mention has been made above. Daland is divided, into the North and! South Part. 1 . In the North Part of this province, which is rocky and mountainous, and. confifts of two Diftri&s,, are the following places of note.. 1 Ä/, 29 6 SWEDE N. [Bohus-Lehn. Amal, in Latin Amalia, a town fituate on the Wener-hke, which di- vides the town and the market-place into two parts. Amal was founded in the year 1640. Here is a Metal-Weigh-houfe and a harbour on the Wener-y and this- town drives a confiderable trade, particularly in timber, deals, and tar. It has long fince recovered itfelf after the fires -which happened in 1645 and 1676. It is the eighty-ninth town of thofe that vote in the Diet ; and Dahlberg has given a view of it in his Suecia. Billingfors, and Kollero, two noted forges, lie in this part of the pro- vince. 2. In the South Part of Daland which is a champaign country, and confequently is more fertile than the North Part, are three Diftridts, in which are the following places of note. Dalaborg, in Latin Dalaburgum, formerly a palace and fortrefs. It was built in the year 1304 ; but taken and difmantledin 1434. Brette was formerly a town, fituated on the Wener, but is now defolate ; its inhabitants, by the King's order, having removed to Wenersborg, which lies about half a Sivediß mile from Brette. IV. B H U S-L E H N, In Latin PrafeSlura Bahußa. THIS Prefecture or Government is faid to take its name from the caftle of Bohus or Bahus, fo called from the Norwegian word Bay, * great and fplendid,' and Hus which fignifies a houfe. It is alfo called Wike. It is bounded on one fide by the North-Sea, and on the other by the Weß-Gothifche Thai-land, or Vale-country of Weft-Gothland. This province extends from Swinefimd 'as far as the river called Gotha-Elbe; being one-and- twenty Swediß miles in length, and between three and four in breadth. The country is in general level, and the foil fertile, confifting of fine arable and meadow-land, diverfified with woods, lakes, and rivers. In the Sheers or rocks on the coaft falt-works have been fet up, where fait is boiled from the fea-water. Near Uddewalla is a high mountain, which chiefly confifts of a kind of fhells that are dug up and calcined for lime.j In many places in this Lehn are large cavities in the mountains, which refemble fpacious apart- ments, and are called Riefen-hohlen, or ' Giants-holes.' There are feveral lakes and rivers in this province ; particularly the river called Gotha-Elbe, which divides itfelf into two arms or branches, (that which directs its courfe to the Weft belonging Xo i\n& Lehn -,) and another Bohus-Lehn.] SWEDEN 297 another river called Quißrom. There are good falmon-fifheries in both thefe rivers. The chief occupations of the inhabitants are fifhing, grazing, and agri- culture. They alfo carry on a trade in planks, marts, deals, tar, lime, tallow, hides, cattle, and all kinds of fifh. This country had anciently belonged to the crown of Sweden \ and in 1658 was again ceded to the Swedes, by Denmark, at the treaty of Rofchild. Hence it is that we treat of it here, though it is generally looked upon as a part of Norway. Bohus-Lehn, as to its ecclefiaftical irate, is in the Diocefe of Gothenburg, and, with regard to its political government, is divided into the South and North Part. 1. The South Part, which is alfo called the Binnen-Land, contains four Diftricts, the places of note in which, are Konghell, or Kongßjall, in Latin Konghella, a very ancient town, envi- roned on all fides by the rivers Norre-Elf and Giothe-Elf. It is fo called from its having been the Hal/or Court of the ancient Kings. In the reign of King Sigurd Jorfalafars, who lived in the twelfth century, it was the prin- cipal city in Norway. He not only made it his place of refidence, but alfo granted it a very honourable and advantageous charter. That Prince likewife embellifhed it with feveral noble ftrudtures ; and among the reft built a palace here, which, after his death, was converted into a monaftery, and provided for its defence by a caftle and other works. But in the time of King Harold Gylles it was facked by the Vandals ; and is fo far from recovering its former profperity, that it was deprived of feveral of its ancient privileges by King Charles Gußavus. Konghell was originally built on the fpot where the royal palace of Cafielle-Ladugarden, or the refidence of the Commandant, now ftands ; but in the time of King Chrißian IV. it was built on another foundation. From the year 1680 to 1700, it was the refidence of a Governor, who in the laft mentioned year removed to Gothenburg. This is the eighty-third town that votes in the Diet ; and a view of it may be feen in Dahlberg's Suecia. The caftle of Bobus, from which the whole Province or Prefecture de- rives its name, lies oppofite to the town ; and is a very frrong fortification, built on a rock, and furrounded by the river called Gotha-Elbe. There is a fpring of very good water in this fort. King Chrißian I. built both the walls and houfes with ftone in the year 1448 ; whereas the latter were before only of wood. Dahlberg has inferted a view of this caftle in his Suecia. Marflrand, in Latin Marißrandia, is a very ancient ftaple-town, fituated on the fea-coaft, with a fpacious, deep, and fecure harbour, into which there is an entrance on the north and fouth fide ; and it is defended by the ftrong citadel of Carlßein. According to fome, this town was built in the year 1132, whilft others fix the time of its foundation in 1262. Vol. I. Q^q It »9 8 SWEDEN. [Bohus-Lehn. It has, indeed, many confiderable privileges; but, partly by the calamities of war during the years 1676 and 1719, and partly by the fires which broke out in 1683 and 1699, it is in fo declining a condition, that in the year 1 747, it had but twenty poor burghers ; and the poll-tax regifter con- tained only fixty-five perfons : However, it confifls of two hundred ruinous, and almofl uninhabited houfes. This is the twenty-fecond in order of the voting towns in the Diet, Dahlbe?'g has given it a place in his Sued a. Carlfiein is a famous fort, fituated on a high mountain near the town, with a handfom church. It was built between the years 1682 and 1687. The brave Danfßj Admiral Tordenßiold, after making himfelf mailer of the town and the forts of Hehigjholm and Malapart, which lie near it, by the brifknefs and continuance of his fire, alfo obliged the Go- vernor of this citadel to furrender. But, the next year, it was reftored to the Swedes. Formerly all condemned criminals were fentenced to work at thefe fortifications, as fome are to this day, whilft others are em- ployed eliewhere. The dangerous rock called Pater-Noßer lies in the fea off Marßrand. Dahlberg has a view both of the town and citadel in his Suecia. 2. The North Part, which is properly called the Wike, is fubdivided into Sunnar-Wiken, and Nor-Wiken, and confifls of nine Diflricls, in which are the following remarkable places. Uddcwalla, a very old flaple-town, with a flrong fort and convenient harbour. It carries on a confiderable trade, particularly in timber ; but was very much damaged by fire in the year 1738. This is the fifty- ninth, in order, of the towns that vote in the Diet. Dahlberg has given a view of it. Stromßadt, in Latin Stroemßadium, is a fmall flaple-town, fituated on the frontiers near the Sivinefund; and the north part of it, which flands on Blomeßjolm, was built in the reign of Charles XI. This town is noted for lobflers and fine oyfters. In the year 1 7 17, it was hard preffed by the Danes; but was defended with equal bravery and vigour. It is the hundredth voting town ; and a view of it is to be feen in Dahlberg's Suecia. At the noble manor of Blomejholm, about three Swediß miles from Stromßadt, is a monument of great antiquity, confifling of large liones let up perpendicularly, and arranged in the form of a fhip. 3. The large iflands of Orouß and Tiom alfo belong to Bohus-Lehn. The former confifls of nineteen, and the latter of three parifhes. The paflures, in both thefe iflands are fo rich that they are famous for excellent butter, and cheefe, and a fine breed of cattle. SOUTH- Schonen.] SWEDEN. 289 so ur h-g o r h la n a In Latin Gothia Außralis. THIS country confüls of three provinces, namely, Schonen, Hal/and, and Blekingen, which, from time immemorial, have undergone many viciffi- tudes and changes, that are particularly related in the hiftories of Sweden and Denmark. Sometimes they were fubjecl: to the Crown of Denmark : At other times they were recovered by the Swedes ; but at length King Charles Gufiavns annexed them for ever to the Swediß Dominions, by the treaty of Rofihild, in the year 1658. I. SCHONEN, In Latin in Scania. T j k HIS province lies fo near Denmark, that it is only feparated from Sea/and by the Orefimd or Soimd, which betwixt Helfenborg and Cronehwg,"is but a league in breadth. Schonen in ancient times was governed by its own Kings, and had its particular laws. This province if meafured according to the roads is fourteen Swediß miles in length from Falflerbo to the long fand bank of Halland, and about eleven Swediß) miles in breadth. This is the mod level, pleafant, and fertile fpotin all Sweden ; and produces plenty of rye, barley, oats, peafe, buckwheat, honey, cummin-feed ; likewife pit-coal, chalk, tiles, and pot-afhes, of which, though to the great detriment of the forefts, 10,000 tons are exported annually from hence. The inha- bitants alfo carry on a confiderable trade in oak, timber, mill-ftones, cordage, fifh of feveral kinds, fine horfes, fheep, and horned cattle. All forts of animals are larger in Schonen than in the northern parts of Sweden ; but are not fo vigorous, and accordingly become more ftrong and hardy, when they are removed northwards. Alum, fulphur, and amber are alfo found here. In that part of Schonen which lies near the Sound and the Baltic, not a wood is to be feen for feveral miles ; but that part which borders on Blekingen, Smaland, and Halland, is well wooded. In the former part which lies near the Baltic, turf and ftraw are generally burnt for fuel. This country, with regard to its many advantages, may be called Qjj 2 the 3 oo S TV E D E N. [Schonen. the ftore-houie and granary of Sweden. No province in the Kingdom is to be compared to it for fine feats and noblemens eftates ; and it contains more well built towns than any other province of Sweden. The number of inhabitants in Schonen alone are computed at 600,000 fouls, and above. It has eight rivers, and feveral lakes ; all well ftored with fifh. The only bifhopric in Schonen is that of Lund; which is the eighth in order, comprehends the Prefectures of Ma/mo, Chrißianßadt, and Blekingen, and is divided into four- and -twenty Provoftfhips. Schonen confifts 1. Of the Prefecture of Malmo, which contains three Diftricts, and the following towns and places of note. Malmo, in Latin Malmogia, is a confiderable ftaple-town, which is called by the Dutch Ellenbogen i. e. an elbow, becaufe the land on which it lies forms a kind of Elbow in the fea. In the year 13 19, the inhabitants were removed from the former fituation higher up in the country to the place where the town now ftands. It is furrounded with walls, moats, and baftions towards the land ; and is defended by feveral fortifications and a caftle towards the fea. The caftle was built in 1434, razed in 1534, and re- built in the year 1538. In this town are two Burgomafters, a good fchool, one Swediß and one German church, an orphan-houfe, a large market-place, fine ftreets, and feveral woollen manufactories. Here the Governor or Prefect of the Diftrict refides. A Philological Society was inftituted in this town in the eleventh century, in memory of King Knut IV. who was fur- named the Pious, and called Knuts-gilde. This Society has many peculiar cufloms and privileges ; and its members are of both fexes. Kings, Princes, and other perfons of the higheft diftinction have not difdained to add that of Knutsbruder to their other auguft titles. In the order of voting at the Diet, this is the fifth town. Skano, is at prefent reduced from a town to a place for loading and unloading goods. It is, however, noted for its yearly fwan-hunting. Falßerbo, a fifhing-place, efpecially for herrings. Here is a light-houfe, on account of the fhoal called Falßarbo-Ref, which lies off this place. 'Tr elleborg is but little better than a village, though formerly a handfome town, with fortifications, a convent, &c. A great quantity of amber is found in the neighbourhood of this place. King Charles XII. in his voyage from Stralfwid, landed at Stafßen, a little to the weft of this place, on the thirteenth of December 171 5, after his long abfence from Sweden. Tjlad or Oießad y in Latin Yßadium, is a fmall but well built ftaple-town fituated on the fea-coaft, from whence a packet-boat goes to Stralfund. It was formerly well fortified, and had two churches. The prefent Convent- church is fo called becaufe it was built for the ufe of two convents which were Schonen.] SWEDEN. 301 Were founded here in the times of popery. This town has the twcnty- firft vote in the Diet. Lindholm, a fine eflate belonging to the Crown with a caftle, where, King Albert of Mecklenburg was confined as a Prifoner for (even years. Lund, in Latin Lunda Gothorum, is a very ancient city, and formerly the refidence of the Kings of this country. It was erected into a Bifiiop's See in 1065, which, in 1 103, was made an Archbifhop's See for the three Northern Kingdoms. The name of the firft Archbifhop of Lund was Adzer. It is faid that this city in the times of popery contained two-and- twenty churches, and at leaft as many convents, with a proportionate number of inhabitants ; and was well fortified. Its cathedral is an ancient (lately building ; and has a fine well, with which all the other wells in the city have a communication, a fuperb altar, and a pulpit of alabafter and black marble. King Charles Gu/lavus intended to have founded an Univerfity at Lund ; but this fcheme was not put in execution till the nineteenth of December 1666, in the reign of Charles XI. The confecration of it was folemnly performed on the twenty-eighth of January 1668, it being the faints day whofe name the King bore; and the Univerfity was accordingly ftiled Academia Carolina Gothorum. In the year 1736, it received the addition of a very elegant anatomical theatre. Here is alfo a phyfic garden. The Bifhop of the See is Vice-Chancellor of the Univerfity. The inhabitants of this town are moftly employed in agriculture. In the neighbourhood are feveral good tobacco plantations, which produce nearly to the amount of 160,000 pounds weight of tobacco annually. Above 20,000 mulberry trees have alfo been planted lately in the environs of this town. In 1676, King Charles XI. entirely defeated the Danes near this city; and in 1679, a peace was concluded here betwixt the two Kingdoms. On a hill, not far from the town, which is called St. Laborius's hill or Slipare-hog, the Danifli Kings were elected by the States in ancient times. In the Diet this town has the thirty-fourth vote. Its Latitude is 55 , 41', 6"» Wefum, an eftate belonging to the Crown. Dalby, which is now one of the King's ftables, in the eleventh century was for a fhort time a Bifhop's See, wlüch was afterwards translated to Lund. At the fame time, namely, in the year 1065, Suen King of Denmark built here a very fine convent, in which two Kings lie interred. In 1512, it undervent the common fate of all the convents in Denmark ; being fequef- tered to the Crown by Chrifiian III. Flyinge, a rich royal demefne. Landskrona, in Latin Coronia, is a fortified ftaple-town fituated near the Sound. It was built by King Erick the Pomeranian near a convent which, flood here. It has two churches, a fecure harbour, and a ftrong caftle built in 1 J49, by Chrißian III. King of Denmark, on the fpot where the old ruinous 302 SWEDE N. [Schonen. ruinous convent flood. The number of inhabitants in this town is fuppofcd to be between (even and eight hundred. Great encouragements are offered for any foreign Cahi/iißov jL«//&£7Y7/z manufacturers, to induce them to fettle here. In the year 1 676 the Danes made themfelves mafters both of the town and caftle. There are tobacco plantations near this town ; which carries on a good trade, and has the fixth vote in the Diet. Hwen or Ween, in Latin Hevena, is a fertile iiland lying in the Sound. It is about 8160 paces in circumference, and has the appearance of a high mountain at a diftance. By the treaty of Rofchild, it was annexed to the Crown of Sweden in 1658. Though it anciently depended on Seeland, Chrifiian IV. King of Denmark fubjected it to the jurifdiction of the Pro- vincial court of Schonen ; but with a provifional claufe, that all its proceffes fhould be determined according to the laws of Seeland. This iiland was rendered famous by the celebrated aftronomer Tycho Brahe, to whom it was granted, together with a fief in Norway and fome other lands, by Frederick II. King of Denmark, who alfo caufed an elegant feat to be built for him at a very considerable expence. This caftle, which is called Uranienburg, is fixty feet fquare, and feventy-five in height : It is embellifhed with two towers, which were defigned for obfervatories, and two other fm aller obfervatories, which yield an extenfive profpecT: ; and has a delightful garden. But the practices of his malicious enemies deprived Tycho of all thefe enjoyments ; and being obliged to leave Uranienburg in 1597, he died in Germany \n the year 1601. His celeftial globe which was fix feet in diameter, and faid to have coft him 5000 dollars *, was firft carried from hence to Benadky in Bohemia, and foon after was removed to Prague ; from whence it was conveyed to Neiffe in Silefia. That town being taken in 1632 by Prince Ulrick, this curious machine was removed to Copenhagen, and depofited in the round tower ; where it was entirely confumed in the calamitous fire, which happened in the year 1728, and laid a great part of that flourishing city in afhes. All that celebrated Aflronomer's other valuable mathematical inftruments, and curious machines have likewife been gradually loft ; and his favourite Uranienburg now lies in ruins. The whole ifland makes but one parifh, or village, coniifting of fifty or fixty houfes; and near it ftands the parifh church. Heljinborg, in Latin Helfmgoburgum, a very ancient ftaple-town, is faid to derive its name from the Heljingers by whom it was built. It lies on a declivity at the foot of a high mountain, on which Heljinglwrg originally flood. It had anciently a very ftrong caflle, being then a large conliderable city ; but fuffered extremely in the wars of the laft century, particularly fince the year 1 673 ; fo that now it is only a defenfelefs place, containing about two hundred houfes and a battery of a few guns : And of all its fortifica- tions the only remains is a tower which ftands by itfelf on the hill. The * A Dollar is it. ()d, % 5 (hallow- Schonen.] SWEDEN. 303 fhallownefs of its harbour obliges all fhips that pafs through the Sound to keep clofe to the Danifli mole at Helfingoer or Eljinore ; and this circumftance muff be a great difadvantage to it in point of trade, which is very inconfider- able here. This is the ufual ferry for paffengers acrofs the Sound into Den- mark. A flourifhing manufacture of coarfe hats, and boots, is carried on, but the other manufactures eftablifhed in this town, as that of ribbons, &c. in which young girls are employed, lcarce anfwer the charges. In the year 1447 King Chriflopher of Bavaria died at Helfingborg. This town has been more than once taken by the Danes ; but always has been foon after retaken by the Swedes. This is the eighteenth town that has a vote in the Diet. In the mountain near which this town ftands, the famous Helfingborg fpring has its fource. This fpring fupplies the town every minute with about twenty gallons * of clear palatable water of an extraordinary coldneis, and of which a great quantity is bottled up and exported. Helfingborg lies in 56 °, 2', North latitude. Ramlofa, which is not far from Helfingborg, is a famous medicinal fpring ifiiiing from a folid rock. Kulla-Fyr, is a lighthoufe built on a mountain, at the difhmce of two Sivedijh miles from Helfingborg. 2. The Prefecture or Government of Christianstadt is divided into ten Diftricts, and contains the following places of note. Chrißianßadt, a town fituated on the river Helge-a, by which it is en- compafied on three fides. This town was originally built in the year 1 6 14, by Chrifiian IV. King of Denmark, from whom it received its name. It has a handfome church, a good fchool, a flrong bridge with feveral warehoufes built on it, woollen and linen cloth, and filk manufac- tures, &c. and carries on a confiderable trade. It is fortified with walls and horn works ; but the cattle which ftands near the church, has nothing worthy of notice. In the year 1676, the Danes made themfelves mafters of this town ; but the very next year, Charles XI. retook it fword in hand. The Prefect or Governor refides in this city, which is the feventeenth of the towns that have a vote in the Diet. The Latitude of Chrifiianfiadt is 56 , 1', 20". Hammar is a royal demefne not far from Chrißianßadt. Wahe, or Wa, which lies about three quarters of a Swedißj mile north of Chrißianßadt, and Ahus which ltands at the diftance of two miles fouth of it, were formerly confiderable towns. Ahus is, as it were, the ware- houfe, where the goods defigned for Chrißianßadt are depolited. Andrarum, which lies near four Swedißj miles fouth of Chrißianßadt, is the moft confiderable alum-work in the whole Kingdom, and belongs to Count Piper. This foffile refembles flate, which being laid in heaps and calcined, and afterwards boiled in water, yields both alum and vitriol, * The Author fays forty-three coons. Kiwick 3 o4 SWEDE N. [Halland. Kiii'ick is a fifhing place remarkable for its fine herrings. Cimbrißiamn, in Latin Portus Cimbrorum, is a fmall fea-port on the Baltic, from which the ancient Cimbri are laid to have let fail for their foreign expeditions. This is the ninety-ninth voting town in the Diet. Tonmritp, Or Tomarp, is a manor laid to have been formerly a town, in which was a convent in the times of popery. Engclholm, in Latin Engclbolmia, is a town fituated not far from the fea, which is laid to derive its name from the Angles, who either firft came from hence, or built this town for the conveniency of trade. It is under the jurifdiction of the magiftracy of Helfmgborg, from which it is but two Swedilh miles diftant. The clouds of fand which are here raifed by the wind are very troublefom ; but thefe fands now begun to be gradually fown with Sandhafer or wild oats, which will in time remedy that inconveniency. Engelholm is the twentieth town in the order of voting in the Diet. v horekou is a confiderable filhing-town with a kind of votive church, to which the lea-faring people fend confiderable pecuniary offerings from all the neighbouring ports. Bat/tad, a confiderable fiihing-place where a market is kept, has the appearance of a fmall city and formerly had the privileges of one. It lies on a bay of the North-fea. II. HALLAND, In Latin Hallandia. TH E name of this province denotes a high land ; and it is fo called becaufe it lies higher up the country than Schonen ; or according to others derives its name from the high mountains with which it is over-run. Halland is fixteen Sivediß miles in length, and, at its fouthern angle, is about four Sivcdijh miles broad. The produce of the arable land in this pro- vince is far from being fufficient for the fupport of the inhabitants : But this defect is in fome meafure compenfated by a great plenty of fifh, efpecially the falmon, it affords, which are reckoned the beft in all Sweden. This province alfo has a very advantageous trade in cattle, and is not with- out fome pearl fisheries. Here are woods of tall oak and birch-trees ; but pine-trees, &c. are not very common in thefe parts. In the fandy tract of Halland ftands a mountain, in which there is a ca- vity large enough conveniently to hold twenty perfons. In this province there are five rivers ; and all of them afford good falmon fifheries. Lere are alfo two confiderable lakes. The Halland.] SWEDEN. 305 The inhabitants who are but few, chiefly fubfiff. by grazing and fifhing. They likewife fpin and weave, and make a kind of knit garments. Thofe who live near the fea-coafts in the north of Halland employ themfelves in trade and navigation. This country is partly affigned for the equipment of dragoons, and the fupport of failors for the royal navy. The clergy of this province are under the jurifdidion of the Bifhop of Gothenburg. As to its political ftate it is divided into South and North-Halland. I. South Halland extends from the long fandy traft of land mentioned above to the river called Falkenbergs-a, and is much more level and fertile than North Halland. It confifts of four Diftrids, and contains the follow- ing places of note. Laholm, or Lageholm, in Latin Laholmia, lies at the mouth of the river Laga near the main fea, and has a fine falmon-fifhery. The ruinous caflle, which ftands near it on a fmall ifland in the river, was demolished in the reign of Charles XI. Among the towns which have a vote in the Diet, this is the eighty-fifth in order. Near it lies a royal demefne. Knarcd, a village with a church, which has a yearly fair. In the year 16 1 3, a treaty of peace was concluded here betwixt Sweden and Denmark. Halmfladt \% a pleafant well built flaple-town, fituated at the mouth of the river Nif a. In 1 3 27, this town was made the capital of the province, and endowed with fuitable privileges. The fortifications ereded here by Chrißian VI. King of Denmark have been razed. The caflle is the place of refidence of the Governor of the province. The cloth and woollen ma- nufactures eftablifhed here are in a flourishing condition ; and the falmon fifhery near this town is very famous. In the times of popery, there were three convents at Halmfladt ; and in 1619, it was the fcene of an interview between King Gußavus Adolphus and Chrißian IV. of Denmark. King- Charles XI. defeated the Danes on a fpot about half a Swedifi mile from this town. In the neighbourhood of it there is a large tobacco plantation. Halmfladt is the fixteenth of the towns that have a vote in the Diet ; and the profped of it makes a good appearance in Dahlberg's Suecia, Bißopflorb, which lies in the parifh of guibille, is an eftate belonging to the Crown. Skottorp, a noble manor fituated in the fandy part of Halland. Here King Charles XI. celebrated his nuptials with Ulrica Eleanora, princefs of Denmark, in the year 1680. A profpect both of the building and garden may feen in Dahlberg's Suecia. Falkenberg, in Latin Falkenberga, a frnall ancient fea-port, near which the river Falkenberg runs, which is likewife called Aethra. This river ifiues from the Alfungen-hke, and by it the latter has a communication wit Si the fea. This town ftands in a fandy fituation ; and has a good fifhery, when- reat quantities of falmon and fome herrings are caught. Falkenberg has a tolerable harbour, and is the ninety-feventh of the towns that vote in the Diet. In Vol. I. R r the 3 o6 SWEDE N. [Blekingen. the year 1565, the battle of Falkenberg, in which the Danes forced their way through the Sivedijh army, was fought at a village called Axtorn near this town. 2. North Hall and is a mountainous and woody country, and extends from Falkenberg river to Eljsborg-Lehn. It confifts of four Diftridls"; and in it are the following towns, &c. Wardberg, in Latin Warburgutn, is a fmall ftaple town, but one of the beft in the province. It has a harbour on the North fea, which, at prefent, has only depth enough for fmall veflels. Wardberg carries on a consider- able tradej and had ftood on three different Situations before the year 1666, when it was built, a fourth time, on the fpot where it now ftands. A very- ancient fortified caftle ftands at the harbour's mouth on a rock furrounded with water ; but, at prefent, it is of little fervice. Near it is a royal manor- houfe on a fpot where the city formerly ftood. This town has the twenty- third vote in the Diet, and is exhibited in Dahlberg's Suecia. Af-klofler was formely a convent, built in the year 1165 j but at prefent is a considerable royal demefne. Hunehals is a fort built on a rock in the parifh of Huneflad, and in popifh times belonged to the Bifhops of Lund. Kongsbacka, is a fmall town fituated between three rivers, which empty themfelves into the fea hard by it. The inhabitants fubfift by agriculture, trade, and navigation. It is the ninety-eighth of the towns that vote in the Diet. Dah/berg has given a view of it in his Suecia. Rofared is a royal demefne. Note. Both South and North Halland are under one Government. III. BLEKINGEN, In Latin Blekingia. 'T* 1 H E Swedes call this province Blekingh, the Danes Blegind, and the ■*• inhabitants term it Biegen. It lies to the Eaft of Schonen, and extends itfelf about fifteen Sivediflj miles in length, and four in breadth. Blekingen is a mountainous country, and for pleafantnefs, efpecially in that part that lies between Carl/kron and Carlßamn, exceeds moft of the provinces in Sweden. Here are feveral woods of oak, beech, pine> and birch trees : But as the foil, in moil: places, is too mallow for tillage, the inhabitants are obliged to make up that deficiency by fupplies from their neighbours. This province is computed to contain about 1089 families ; and the inhabi- tants drive a coniiderable trade in pot-afh, tar, tallow, hides, leather, beams, deal-boards, and malts. They alio employ themfelves in fifhing and hunting, to a great advantage. The paftures in this province are fo nu- tritive, that the belt cheefe in Sweden is made here; and grazing turn to Blekingcn.] SWEDEN. to very good account : However, the cattle are fomewh.it fmaller here than in Schonen. Inftead of its quota of foldicrs, this province maintains 1554 failors to ferve on board the royal navy ; and thefe are divided into three companies. There are feveral lakes, and fix rivers of note, all which afford good falmon, in this province. Blekingcn and Smaland are feparated from each other by thefe rivers. The principal iilands belonging to this jurifdiction amount to about one hundred and thirty. The whole province contains, with regard to the ecclefiaftical divifion, nine-and-twenty pariflies. The clergy of it are fubject to the See of Lund. As to its political divifion it conlifts. of four Harads or Diftricts, which are, i.Oestra-Harad, or thcEa/l-Di/lric7, in which are the following towns. Carl/krona, or CalJ'cron, in Latin Caroli Corona, a handfome ftaple-town, lies on the Baltic; and was firft built by King Charles XI. who called it after his name, and endowed it with the privileges, and the freedom of a Staple. This town, next to Stockholm, is reckoned the bell in the kingdom. A part of it flands on the little ifland of Biorkhohn, where the marine hof- pital is, part on that of Stubholm on which the arfenal is built, and part on the mole, where the fleet is ufually laid up. The large and fmall iflands that lie near this town, together with the woods of oak, beech, and birch trees on all fides, render the fituation of it extremely pleafant. Here are three churches, namely one Savedißi, which is called the town-church, one German church, and the third belongs to the Admiralty. The inhabitants of Carlßrona are fuppofed to be about 5000 fouls. This city iß famous for the Admiralty-college which was removed hkher from Stockholm in 1 680 ; a dock- yard which is feparated from the town by a high ftone-wall; and a fquadron of (hips of war which is laid up here. It has two burgomafters, and the Governor of the province makes it his place of refidence. The har- bour, which lies betwen Afp-oe and Stork-oe, is fo commodious that the whole royal navy may fecurely ride in it ; and the mouth or entrance into it is defended by the citadels of Kongjholm and Drotningßiar. There is a new handibm parifh-church in thefe forts, and alfo a German church. The dock-yard is particularly remarkable; it being dug out of a moun- tain to the depth of eighty feet. The length of it is from three hundred to three hundred and fifty feet at the place where the King's fleet lies ; and this excellent dock, though profecuted with all poflible vigour, employed the engineers from the year 17 15 to the year 1724, before it was com- pleated. Its entrance towards the fea has a fufficient depth of water to let the largeft men of war on float. This entrance is clofed by two flood- gates, and the bafon may be emptied in four-and-twenty hours, fo that the dock becomes quite dry in order to repair and clean the lhips ; after which the water is re-admitted, by means of two fluices which are further de- fended from the violence of the waves by a certain machine, in order to lit the lhips afloat and carry them out of the bafon. Carljkron is the R r 2 tenth W 3 o3 SWEDE N. [Blekingen. tenth, in order, of the towns that vote in the Diet. Dahlberg, in his Suecia, has given us two views, one of the city, and another of the caftle of Drotniwßiar. Chrifiianopel, commonly called Nopeln, is a fortified market-town, which is almoft furrounded by the Baltic in the manner of a peninfula. In 1603, Chrißian IV. King of Denmark gave it a charter of privileges, and called it by his name. But it loft thofe privileges in the year 16 10, when it was taken by Gußavus Adolphus, who was at that time heriditary Prince, or heir apparent to the crown. 2. Medelsta-Harad, in which the places of note are, Ronneby, or Rotneby, a pariih, with a market-place, which lies in the mid- way between Calfkron and Carlfiam. Near it the river Ronneby, which has a good falmon-fifhery, empties itfelf into the Baltic. This place was for- merly fortified ; and till the time of Charles XI. was a little town, having been built by one of the Kings of Denmark. It ftill carries on fome trade j and has an harbour, fome medicinial fprings, and feveral manufactories. The inhabitants of Ronneby are free of Carl/krona. Gio, or Giß, is a peninfula lying about three quarters of a Swedißi mile from Romieby. Here is a fine fifhery which is very advantageous to the place, and the caufe of a confiderable trade to it. 3. Brakne-Harad, in which lies Carlßamn, in Latin Caroli portus, a ftaple-town which derives its name from Charles X. by whom it was built in the year 1658. Before that time it was called Chrißianßiamn from Chrißian IV. its firft founder ; but Charles XI. improved and fortified it with a caftle, which ftood on a rock at the mouth of the river and defended the town and harbour, but is now fallen to decay. Here are two churches, a woollen manufacture, and a good key ; and without the town ftands a copper-mill. The number of inhabitants in Carlßamn is faid to exceed 1200. In the Diet this town has the ninteenth vote. 4. Listers-Harad, in which are the following places of note. Elleholm, a village, with a church, ftanding on a fmall ifland in the river that runs by Morum. It lies at the diftance of half a Swedißj mile from Carlßamn, and was formerly a town, and had a caftle. Its municipal privileges have been conferred on Solfwitzborg, a fea-port, which for a long time remained disfran- chifed, but at laft had a charter of privileges conferred on it. This town is almoft environed by the Baltic fea, and was formerly in a more flourifti- ing condition than it is at prefent. It has a harbour with a ruinous caftle. Solfwitzborg is faid to have been the place where the Longobardi or Lom- bards affembled, when they left this country in order to go in fearch of new habitations. This is the eighty-fourth voting town in the Diet. A fiihing place called Hallawic belongs to this town. SWEDEN, Upland.] SWEDEN. 3 c 9 SWEDEN, properly fo called, In Latin Succia ßriSie ßc diEla. *Tp HIS country is bounded on the North by Nordland, on the Weft by *■ JVarmeland and Norway, on the Eaft by the fea, and on the South by the kingdom of Gothland. Of all the Swcdißj dominions this country has the greateft number of mines, forges and hammer-mills. Sweden, in ancient times, was fometimes a diftindt kingdom, and fomctimes united with that of Gothland, as it has been ever fince the year 1132. It is divided into five provinces, namely, ZTphmd, Sudermanland, Nerike or Nericia, Weflmanland, and Dahl, or the Vale-country ; which had alfo their respec- tive Kings, and were governed by their own laws, except Nerike which had no particular laws of its own. Sweden, properly fo called, contains five-and-twenty cities and towns. I. UPLAND, In Latin Uplandia, / Tp HIS province is fo "called from the fuperiority the ancient Kings, -*■ that relided at Upfal, had over the Vaffil-kings and Governors who were tributary to the former. This province extends in length about eighteen Swedifi) miles, and fifteen in breadth, and is a champain, fertile country; producing wheat, barley, rye, and oats in fuch plenty, as to fupply its neighbours with confiderable quantities of grain. But in fome parts of Upland there are neither paflures nor woods. Among the mountains of this province fome are remarkable for fpacious caverns which refemble large regular apartments. Here are twelve rivers, and a ftill greater number of lakes. The Maler- lake is the principal among the latter, and lies between Upland, Suder- manland, and Weßmanland. It is twelve miles in length, yields an extra- ordinary plenty of fifh, and is faid to contain 1290 iflands. Its banks are beautifully diverfified with towns, caftles, churches, noblemens feats, and other edifices. It has a communication with the fea, through the oudets of the north and fouth rivers, or channels, near Stockholm. In this country are feveral very wealthy perfons, who are owners of mine-works and hammer-mills ; and the latter are not only profitable, but alfo curioufly con- trived. In this province are like wife the beft iron mines in the kingdom. The 3 io SWEBEN. [Upland. The chief occupation of the inhabitants of Upland is agriculture ; but in fome places they work in the mines, and in others they are employed in the fiiheries. Thofe who live on the fea-coaft, among the jfheers or rocks, entirely fubfift by the latter. This country is divided into three parts, namely, Upland, properly fo called, which is the middle part of the country. Roslagen, or the maritime part. And Fieruhundra, or the part which borders or the rivers Dal-Ebe, and Sag. The Ärchbifhoprick of Upfal confifts of twenty-five Provoftfhips, one hundred and fixty-fix Paßorates, or two hundred and forty-two town and country-parifhes, and four chapels ; and this Diocefe includes, 1. The Government of Upfal. 2. That part of the Stockholm Government which lies in Upland. 3 . Gaßrickland and Halfingeland, which are the weflern parts of the Government of Nordland. 4. Part of Salbcrg and JVafiy-Lehn, which belong to the Government of Weßmanland. As to its political ftate this province is divided into the three following Prefects or Governments. 1. The Government of Stockholm, which includes The Sechs-fee-Dißricle, or the fix maritime Districts, and the Zehn-land Difr.nct, or ten inland Diftricts. In the former are the following re- markable places. Stockholm, in Latin Holmia, a ftaple city, the capital of the whole kingdom, and the refidence of the King, lies at the junction of the Baltic and the Maler-Xdkz ; fo that it has the conveniency both of fait and frefh-water. Its circuit, computed from the one gate to the other, is two Swedijlj miles; and it ftands partly on iflands and partly on peninfula's. Molt of the ftreets of this city are broad, and kept very clean ; and the market-places are fpacious. In the city, properly fo called, are above 5000 houfes, moll of which ftand on piles, though entirely built with ftone, and are four or five ftories high ; and fome of them are covered with iron or copper-plates, and others with tiles. Befides thefe, there are a great number of timber houfes in the fuburbs, and twenty churches in all. The feven Holme or iflands on which this city ftands, are 1. The City, properly fo called, which contains, 1. The new palace, a very grand ftrudure. 2. The Nobles-houfe, which is alfo a very fuperb edifice, and gives the name of Ritter-haus market to the adjoining market. 3. The town-houfe. 4. St. Nicholas, or the great church. 5. St. Gertrudes, or the German church, near which ftands a grammar-fchool. 6. The great market. 7. The bank. 8. The corn-quay. 9. The ma- rine fraternity. 2. The Upland.] SWEDEN. 3 ri 2. The Ritterhohn, which lies on the weft fide of the city, and has a communication with it by means of a bridge. On this ifland (lands the old royal palace which was burnt in the year 1697, and the Ritterholm church which is dedicated to St. Francis. In this church are interred the following Kings ; viz. Magnus Ladulas, Charles VIII. Gußavus Adolphus, Charles X. Charles XII. and Frederick I. with the Queens, Maria Eleanora, Hedwig-Eleanora, the two Ulrica Eleanora s, belides feveral Princes and Princefles. 3. Helgandß:olm, or the ifland of the Holy Ghoft, which lies in the Norder-ßrom or North channel, between the city and the Norder-malm or North iuburb. In this part are the King's ftables which were built in the year 1696. 4. Schiffshohn, which lies to the eaft of the city. In this part are the dock-yard and the Admiralty. Near this ifland lie thofe of Cajilehohn and Pecholm ; and clofe by Blaßeholm, the church belonging to Schißsholm ftands on a fmall ifland, towards the North. 5. Blafieholm, which was formerly called Kappli?ig/holm. 6. Konigßolm, on which ftands the Ulrica-Eleanora-church. 7. Ladugards-Land, which is now joined to the Nordermalm, and looked upon as a fuburb. In it are Hedwick's church, a market-place, an orch-yard belonging to the King, and an orphan-houfe founded in the year 1750 by the Free-Mafons. Alfo two large fuburbs called Norder and Sudcr- Mahn belong to the city of Stockholm. The Norder-Malm, or North Suburb, which is feparated from the city by the Norder-Strom, lies in Upland, and contains the churches of St. James, St. Clara, St. Olaus, and St. John ; the orphan-houfe, together with a church ; the arfenal, and three market-places. Here is alfo a high fandy hill called Brunkberg, from John Brunk, high-conftable of the kingdom, who was beheaded there in the time of King Birger ; and another hill called Sab- batsberg near which are a medicinal fpring and an obfervatory. Suder-Malm, or the South Suburb, is feparated from the city by the canal called Suderßrom, which was dug by order of King Oluf the Pious in the year 1008, and lies in Sudermariland. In this Suburb are Mary Magdalena church, St Catbrine's church, the Sudermalm-mzrket, with the town-houfe on it ; and likewife the Rußan chapel, the Dutch Cahini/is church, a large hofpital, a fine iron Weigh-houfe, the New Market, &c. All thefe parts of Stockholm are joined together by twelve bridges. The number of the inhabitants who pay taxes in this metropolis is com- puted at 60,000. The Police of the city is lodged jointly in the magiftracy, and the Oberßatthalter, i. e. High Statholder or Governor, who prefides in the Royal Chancery of the Supreme Court and the city Council-Chamber. This city has, befides, four Burgomafters > and the magiftracy is divided 2 into J 312 SWEDEN. [Upland. into four particular Colleges, namely, thofe of Juftice, the Police, Trade, and Manufactures; and likewife into three courts of Judicature. Here alfo are held the Colleges and Offices mentioned in §. 22. of the Intro- duction to Sweden ; among which the principal is that called the Royal High-Court of Sweden; which was eftablifhed in 16 14 for Sweden pro- perly fo called. Subordinate to this are eight fuperior and twenty-four inferior Courts, together with the jurifdictions of feveral Judiciaries. The Collegium Med/cum, or College of Phylicians, was founded at Stock- holm in the year 1688. Here are alio a Royal Academy of Sciences, which was inftituted in 1739 ; a Royal Academy for Military Architecture, and another for Land-furveying ; a Chymical and Mechanical Elaboratory j an Academy of Painting and Sculpture ; a Royal Library, an account of which has been written by Magnus Celßus; and feveral well-regulated Printing-houfes. There are befides in this capital the following offices and inftitutions, viz. a Board of Admiralty, a Navy-office, a Cuflom-houfe, an office of the Revenues, an edifice where goods manufactured in the kingdom are examined, and dis- putes betwixt manufacturers decided ; a national Bank, the credit of which ap- pears from the price of its actions ; a large Iron Weigh-houfe ; an Infurance- office inftituted in 1739; three fugar-houfes ; with manufactories of glafs, porcelain, filk, woollen-cloth, cotton, parchment, and canvas. Here are alio commodious docks in which many fhips are built for foreigners. The foreign and domeftic trade of this city may be fuppofed to be very confiderable ; for it has an excellent harbour almoft furrounded with hills : But the many fljeers or rocks at the mouth of it render the entrance fomething difficult. In the year 1696, a fociety of Pilots was eftablifhed in this city for the improvement of navigation. Here are very good regulations in cafes of fire ; provision for the loftes by fuch accidents being made by means of an Infurance-Office. The Governor of the Stockholm Prefecture or Government refides here; and the King's guards confuting of eighteen companies, together with the Officers, &c. belonging to the Ordnance, are always quartered in this city. As to hiftorical particulars relating to this city ; it is faid to have been built in 1252, or 1260, by Birger Jarl, Regent of the kingdom; but others date its foundation about an hundred years earlier. Its charter of privileges has been renewed and augmented, from time to time. Stockholm, in ancient times, fuftained feveral fieges ; and in the year 1520, a ihocking mafiacre was perpetrated here by order of the perfidious King Chrijlian II. Ninety-fix Diets have been held in this city fince the thirteenth cen- tury. In the year 175 1, a fire happened at Stockholm which deftroyed three hundred and ten houfes, befides St. Clares church. This is the firft city that votes in the Diet 5 and its Latitude is 59 , 20'. The Upland.] SWEDEN 313 The Sivedifo Atlas exhibits the ichnography of this city ; and there is alfo a good plan of it in Outhier's voyage au Nord, or ' Travels to the North. Fredericks-hof is a royal palace built in 1732 by Frederick I. It ftands on the eaft fide of Ladugardsland; and near it is a park, and an orangery which is much admired. The King's Park extends itfelf from north to fouth on the eaft fide of the Nordermalm, or the north fuburb, and is almoft furrounded with water. Nothing can be more delightful than the beautiful difpofition of the fine groves, lawns, and walks with which it is diversified : There is alfo a me- dicinal fpring in this park. Carlberg is a fine royal pleafure-houfe with a garden laid out in the moll elegant tafte, and decorated with fome beautiful ftatues, &c. It lies about a quarter of a Swedijh mile weft of Nordermalm, or the north fuburb, on a creek of the Maler-hke. This feat was formerly called Magnusbcrg from Count Magnus Gabriel de la Gardie. At the entrance of this palace ftands a marble ftatue of King Frederick. Dahlberg\ws inferted feveral views of this charming place in his Suecia. Ulrichjdal, a ftately royal feat, isfituated at thediftance of half a Sivedi/h mile to the north of Stockholm, on the weft fide of the Edfwike. It was built in the year 1644 by Count James Pontuffon de la Gardie; and for- feited to the crown in the reign of King Charles XI. who altered its former name of Jacobsdal to Ulrichjdal, in honour of his third fon Wrick who was born in this palace. The garden is particularly remarkable for the elegant contrivance of its curious grotto. Here is alfo a fine park. Dahlberg has given a perfpeclive view of this palace in his Suecia. Drotningholm, the fineft of all the King of Sweden's palaces, ftands on the ifland of Lofon which lies about a Swedißo mile to the weft of Stockholm. Hedwig Eleanora, confort of Prince Charles Gußavus, to whom it devolved in the year 1652, was the foundrefs of the prefent ftructure ; the former palace having been burnt by carelefihefs. Facing the fouth front of it is a pleafant garden adorned with a variety of fountains ; and the eaft and north tide exhibit a delightful view of the fhips at lea, all which are well reprefented in Dahlberg's views of this place. The Upland /cheer en. This is a name given to thofe fmall ifiands, and rocks furrounded with water, which lie along the Upland coaft, and amon» which it is dangerous to fail. The inhabitants of thefcßeers, or fmall rocky ifiands,' generally employ themfelves in fifhing. Waxholm which lies about two Swedijh miles from Stockholm juft at the entrance of the channel into the lak^, is a ftrong citadel built on a fmall ifland in the year 1649. It has fince been greatly improved and enlarged, fo that it has' the appearance of a little town. Here all homeward bound {hips are fearched. On this illand, which is called Waxon, befides this fort are a church, a fchool, and a Cuftom-houie. The chief occupation of the Vol. I. S f inha- 314 SWEDEN. [Upland. inhabitants is fifhing. Dahlberg has given a view of tliefe places in his Suecia. Palfunde, lies alfo on a channel that runs up to Stockholm. Here is a battery erected juft at the water's edge. In 1 723 a rampart of earth was thrown up in this place. Oxdiupet is a third channel leading to Stockholm ; it is defended by a fort called Fredericksburg. Sandhamn is a harbour in the parifh of Wermdo, where all veffels home- ward or outward bound to or from Stockholm are fearched. Nortelge, in Latin "Telga Borealis, is a fea-port built by King Gußavus AdoU fhus, which in the year 1622, was endowed with the ftaple and other privi- leges : however, the inhabitants enjoyed thefe advantages but for a fhort time, namely, till the year 1637. They now fubfift by navigation and fifhing. This town has in fome meafure recovered itfelf after the ravages committed here by the Ruffians in the year 171 9. Near the water-fall is a fine forge for making fire-arms. Nortelge is the fifty-fourth of the towns that vote in the Diet. There is a perfpective view of it in Dahlberg's Suecia. Radmanfo is a royal demefne, on an ifland among the Scheers or coaft-- rocks, about a Swediß) mile and a half from Nortelge. Lindholm, a fine manor, lies about two Swedijh miles from Nortelge, where King Gußavus I. was born in the year 1490. Wira is a place where very good blades are made, and lies in the parifh oi" Riala. Grißehaman. Here is a Poft-houfe, from which the packet pafies over to the Hland of Aland. Zehn-Land Districte, or the ten inland Diftri&s, lie higher up th« country, and contain the following towns and places of note. Oeßhammar, in Latin Oeßhammeria, is an old fea-port, and formerly a ftaple-town. In the year 1491 the inhabitants of this place with all its privileges were removed to Oeregrund. But, fome time after, Oefihammer was built on the Gold ßieer, or golden rock, as it is called, which projects a little farther into the fea than its former fituation. In the year 1719, this town was burnt by the Ruffians : But it has recovered itfelf fince that calamity ; and its inhabitants fubfift comfortably by navigation and fifhing. Oeßham- mar has the eighty-feventh vote in the Diet. Dahlberg has alfo given it a place in his Suecia. Oeregrund, in Latin Oeregrunda, is a fea-port, built in the year 1491, on the fea-coaft, by fome of the inhabitants of Oeßhammar ; who left that town becaufeof the great decreafe of the water in the harbour which entirely ruined its trade. Oeregrund was a ftaple-town till the year 1630, and has been three times burnt, and quite demolifhed by the Ruffians. And though the laft time it was laid wafte was no longer ago than the year 171 9; yet it has rofe again fince to fome degree of profperity. The harbour is defended from Upland.] SWEDEN. 315 from the violence of the fea by a mole. A convent of Monks formerly flood in this town, which has the fifty-fecond vote in the Diet. A pro- ipecl of it is to be feen in Dahlberg's Suecia. Swartjio, is a royal manor on an ifland in the Malcr-hke in the parifh of Sanga. This ifland is the belt peopled of any in that lake. It has been a royal manor from time immemorial, and the prefent manfion-houfe was lately built ; the former having been burnt in the year 1687. Dahlberg, in his Suecia, has given a view of it. Wantholmen is a royal farm afligned for the expences of the Court. Biorko, in Latin Birca, is an ifland in the Maler-lake, and lies about three Swediß miles from Stockholm. On this ifland flood formerly a market-town with a royal feat called Birka or Biorko, which was commonly but im- properly termed a city. A draught of it may be feen in Dahlberg s Suecia Tom. I. Sigtuna, a fmall town fituated on a creek of the Ma/er-lake, formerly made a great figure among the chief cities of this Kingdom. It derives its name from xhtAJiatic hero Odin, whofe furname was Sigge. He came into the North before the Chriftian JEra, and had his refidence, his Temple, and Court of Judicature in this place ; on which account it was called Siggef- tuna, i. e. Sigge % Court. Others will have it, that the town was firft built by Odin, and affign its name another etymology, namely, Stadt des Siegers, or the ' Conqueror's town ;' being fo called on account of the coftly facri- fices formerly brought hither, which were termed Sigurblott, i. e. Victims, offered after a victory. Sigtuna went through many vicifTitudes during the Pagan times ; and was plundered and burnt in the year of Chrifi 1 008 by Olof the Pious, King of Norway. However, after this caftrophe it rofe again by degrees to its former fiourifhing condition, and continued fö till it was deftroyed a fecond time, in 1 188, by the Carelians, Eflonians, and Ruffians. It even recovered itfelf once more after this fecond calamity, and continued for fome time in a profperous ftate. But the vaft increafe of Stockholm gave an irretrievable blow to Sigtuna ; for as the former flourifhed the latter declined in proportion. Several churches and other buildings, which how- ever are an ornament to Dahlberg's draught of this town, are tobe feen here in a ruinous condition. This is the forty-feventh town that votes in the Diet. Noor, is a very fine manor in the parifh of Knitßadt. 2. The Prefecture or Government of Upfal confifts of four Diftricts, and contains the following towns and remarkable places. Vpfala, or Upfal, in Latin Upfalia, a very ancient and pretty large city, is fituated on the river Fyris, which divides it into two parts ; that part which, lies on the eaft fide of the river being properly the city, and that on the weft being called Fierding. Upfal was anciently the chief feat of the fo- vereigns of Sweden, where they held their fupreme tribunal. The greateft Sacrifices offered in all the northern provinces were brought hither in the Sf 2 time 3 i6 SWEDEN. [Upland. time of paganifm ; and the mod: eminent heathen priefts, had their refidence in this city. Upfal was alio the moft ancient town in the Sw edißo Hoch- länder or Highlands, and the chief ornament of the whole country. All the buildings of this city are of wood, the cathedral and a few {lone-houfes excepted ; and the roofs of them are nothing but the bark of birch-trees covered with turf. Here are three churches ; among which the cathedral is the principal, and indeed makes the beft appearance of any in the Kingdom. It was built in the thirteenth century, but not completed and confecrated till the year 1435. The Architect being a native of Paris took the church of Notre Dame in that city for his model. This cathe- dral has been deftroyed by fire no lefs than five times fince its firft foundation; thelaft time it was burnt was in the year 1702 : However, it has fince been rebuilt in an elegant manner. Several royal perfonages lie buried in tliis church ; and the remains of King Erick IX. are fhewn here in a filver fbrine. There was formerly an epifcopal palace on the fpot where the King's ftables now ftand. The royal palace in this city was confumed by fire in the year 1702; but preparations are making for rebuilding it. The Kings of Sweden are generally crowned here. A fchool was firfl inftituted at Upfal in 1246, which was raifed to an Univerfity in the year 1470 5 but in 1582 it was removed to Stockholm. However, the Univerfity was eftablifhed a fecond time at Upfal in the year 1592. Gußavus I. and Gußavus Adolphns endowed this Univerfity with fome lands. It has been alio enriched by confiderable legacies of feveral private perfons, befides the royal falaries. The edifice called Academia Gußaviana, which is three ftories high, was built by Gußavus Adolphus in the year 1622. It has a round tower, or rather cupola, at the top, in which is a curious Anatomy-theatre, founded in the fame year by Profefior Rudbeck. It has alfo a very valuable library containing near 1000 manufcripts, among which the moft remarkable is the Codex Argenteus, fuppofed to be Uphilas Gothic tranflation of the four Evangelifts ; but it feems rather to be written in the language of the ancient Francs. The Mufium or Cabinet of curiofities is faid to be worth a Ton of Gold*. The aftronomical Obfervatory was planned by thecelebrated Celfius ; and thePhyfic-garden was laid out chiefly by the famous Linnceus. The Royal Academy of Sciences was inftituted in the year 1728. The Archbifhop of Upfal, who is the only one in the Kingdom, is the Pro- cancellarius Academics, or Vice Chancellor of the Univerfity. There is alfo a cathedral fchool in this city ; and the Governor of Upland relides here. The Sivediß Geographers place their firft meridian, from which they compute the Longitude, at Upfal. About the clofe of the eleventh, or the beginning of the twelfth century, ä Bilhop's See was eftablilhed here, which, at the defire of Charles VII. was made an Archiepifcopal See by Pope Alexander III. Stepbanus, who was con- fecrated in the year 1 162, was the firft Archbifhop of Upfal. * 1 00,000 Swediß) dollars zt is. 9 d. The Upland.] SWEDEN. 3 i 7 The moft remarkable Diets held in this city were thofe of 1593 anc * 1654. XJpfal has the fecond vote in the Diet, and is ranked accordingly. Near this city is a royal chace, and Ultima, a royal demefne, on which ftands a manfion-houfe. In the year 1160, a battle was fought in the royal inclofure near this city between Erick IX. and Henry Skateler King of Denmark, in which the former was totally defeated and loft his head. Dahlbcrg has beftowed feveral plates on this city in his Suecia. Gam/a Upfala, i. e. Old Upfal, is a parifh that lies about half a Swediß mile from the city ; and is by fome fuppofed to have been the chief place whither in ancient times all the Northern People reforted to offer facrifices to the Heathen Gods. In the year 1 138, a Chriftian church, which is ftill to be feen here, was built out of the ruins of an ancient Pagan temple : near this church are feveral tumuli or fepulchral monuments. Of thefe buildings and antiquities Dahlbcrg has inferted draughts in his Suecia. Mora-fieine is a parcel of ftones lying on a level meadow about a Swcdijh mile from UpfaL Near thefe ftones the Kings of Sweden were formerly elected and inaugurated, purfuant to a cuftom firft introduced in the year 1059; but this ceremony was difcontinued in 1457. On tne ^ e ftones, which are now extremely mutilated, the arms of Sweden with feveral inferiptions are cut. They ftand under cover > and the little edifice in which they are in- clofed is kept locked, and the key is committed to the care of the keeper of the meadow. Skog-klojler, a fine eftate near the Maler-lake, was formerly the pro- perty of the Folkunga-famWy, and after having been in the poffeffion of feveral other proprietors, it devolved to Count Brake, who is the prefent owner of it. The ancient Dominican convent which ftood here, and was afterwards turned into a nunnery, is now converted into a fine palace j in which are two armories, a large cabinet for mathematical and aftronomical inftruments, and a valuable library. A view of this place is to be icen in Dahlbcrg s Suecia. Eckholmfund is a royal demefne. A view of it is exhibited in Dahlberg% Suecia. Enkioping, in Latin Encopia, is a very ancient city fituated in a fertile country. This town in the times of paganifm was the refidence of the Vaffal-kings of Fierdhundra ; and of late the fuperior judges have held their courts and mufters here. The number of inhabitants at Enkioping is about fix hundred ; and it has ftill fome remains of two churches and as many convents. In the year 1308, it was facked by the Germans ; and was confumed by fire in 1572 and 1609. Its deputies rank in the Diet as the fifty-fifth voting town. Dahlberg has given a view of it in his Suecia. Suinnegarns, or St. Siegfried's well, lies about half a Swedijh mile from the city. This was anciently the fcene of feveral fuperftitious cuftoms and ceremonies. Qerby-* 3 i 8 SWEDEN. [Upland. Oerby-Hus, a confiderable eflate above four Swediß miles from Upfal, now belongs to the De Geer family. Here King Erick XIV. was detained prifoner till the year 1579, when he was taken off by poifon. Dannemora is an iron mine about four Swediß miles from Vpfal : It is one of the moft ancient and confiderable mines in the Kingdom,, yielding every year forty or fifty thoufand cart-loads of red iron ore. Lojjla hammer-mill lies about two Swediß miles from the former, and confifts of four hammers, eight forges, and a fmelting furnace. Though the Ruffians entirely deftroyed this ftrudlure by fire in the year 1719, it was rebuilt fince, and confifts of fo many buildings as to conftitute a little town; fo that it has not its equal of the kind in the whole Kingdom. Thefe works alfo belong to the abovementioned De Geer family. Tobo is the largeft and moft noted fmelting-houfe in all Sweden. Elfkarleby is a royal manor, on which ftands a village where a yearly fair is kept. Here is a fifhery, in which falmon and lampreys are caught in great abundance. 3. The Prefecture or Government of Westmannland confifts of three Diftridts and two parifhes. The only remarkable places in Weßmannland are the village of Ullaraker, where a town formely ftood, of which fome ruins are ftill to be feen, and the borough of Borgberg which lies in ruins. Note. In Dahlberg's Suecia antiqua S? hodierna, Vol. I. are to be feen views of the following feats. 'Akehof. Hammerjkog, which lies in Dahlbywyk. Ado, fituated on the Maler-hke. Hornjberg. Almarßak. Haßeby. Arnoo. Rierfoo. Angfoo. Malmwyk, lying near the Maler-hke. Afpenas. Lindholm. Bogefund. Lidoon, on the Alandßaf. Brunßolm, fituated on the Maler-hke. Moorby, which ftands near the Sched- Diurßolm, fituated on the Wortan- wyk-hke. lake. Margretelund. Ekebyholm, which ftands on the bank Naßy. of the Synningen-hke. Noor, which ftands on the lake of Ekholm. the fame name. Finßad, where St. Bridget was born, Oerby, near the Mandel-hke. and feveral antiquities are to be Oeßana. feen. Penningeby. Gorvalen. Rofirsberg, an elegant caftle with a Gronfio. very pleafant garden. Haaga. Roßrand. Hatunaholm, Jfcdboholm. 5 Runfa % Sudermannland.] s w E D E Runfa. Stafsund. Skanilahohn. Steeninge. Saalßad. Tuna. Satuna. Ulfunda. Saby. Wanfgarn. Sio, a ftately palace. Wennegam Schellnora. Wyk. N 3*9 and II. SUDERMANNLAND, In Latin Sudermannia. 'TpHIS name preferves the memory of the ancient Mannahem, i. ei ■*■ Manfw Virorum ; and as it lies to the fouth of Upfal and Upland, it was called Suder-manna-land, or Suder-manna-hem, i. e. Meridwialis virorum Manjio. It is five-and-twenty Swedijh miles in length, and twelve in breadth ; and this Province appears to be one of the firfl that was inhabited and cul- tivated in this Kingdom. The foil is fertile, and, accordingly, no labour is fpared for the improvement of it. Sudermannland abounds in fine arable land, paftures, woods, iron-mines, and forges ; and its lakes are well flocked with fifh. Its advantageous fituation between the main-fea and the Maler-hkz is alfo the caufe of its carrying on a confiderable trade. There are eleven rivers, fome of which mail be mentioned in the fequel, in this province ; and feveral frefli-water lakes, among which the moll re- markable are The Maler, of which an account has been given above. The Hielmar, which is feven Sivedifh miles long, and has a communi- cation with the Maler-lzke by means of a canal, fome flukes, and the Arboga river. The Bawen-hke, in which are a hundred iflands. The inhabitants of this country chiefly fubfifl: by agriculture, hunting, fifhing, and working in the mines ; and carry on a confiderable trade in corn, iron, and wooden ware. On account of the pleafantnefs and fertility of the country, the dowager Queens ufe to have their dowery, and the Dukes kheir dutchies in this province. Sudermannland is divided into Sudermannland properly fo called ; Sudertorn, in Latin Toernea Meridionalis, which lies between Stockholm and Sudertelge, and is environed by the main-fea and the Maler-lake ; and ReiCarna which lies between Hielmarfund and Strengnas. But the inha- bitants of this latt divifion differ from the others both in their language and drefs. The Diocefe of Sudemtannland 'is the fourth in order, and contains four- teen Provoflfhips. Suder- 3 20 SWEDEN. [Sudermannland. Sudermannland, properly fo called, confifts of two Governments, namely, Nikioping and Suder-Torn. The Government of Nikioping contains three Diftricts. i. Nikioping-Lehn j in which the places of note are, Nikioping, i. e. 'a new mart,' in Latin Nicopia, is a well-built ftaple- town, and the capital of this province. It is one of the moft ancient cities in the kingdom of Sweden, and was formerly the residence of the Kings and Princes of Sudermannland. The air is fo temperate and falubrious that in times of a contagion, the royal family and the feveral Boards and Offices have frequently removed from Stockholm to this place. Its inhabitants are above 1200 fouls; and the city is divided into two (nearly equal) parts by a lan r e river, which rifes in Langhalfen. In the year 1728, a ftone-bridge, which is fcarcely to be equalled in the whole kingdom, was built over this river. Nikioping was almoft confumed by fire in 1 66 1 , and fuffered extremely by the ravages of the RuJJians in 171 9. Here was formerly a very ancient caftle, which is famous in hiftory ; but it was demolifhed in the year 1665 : The Kings of Sudermannland refided in it, and it was fo ftrongly fortified that it was accounted little inferior to thofe of Stockholm and Calmar. The ftreets are all well laid out, and the high-ftreet is planted with Dutch limes. It has two handfom churches, a commodious harbour, feveral manufactories of cloth and Morocco-leather, a brafs hammer-mill, and drives a confiderable trade by fea. Its chief magiftrates are two Burgomafters. The Governor of Sudermannland alio refides in a palace in this city. In the times of popery here was a famous convent; and feveral Diets have been held in this town. The Swedijh language is fuppofed to be fpoken in its greateft purity at Nikioping and its environs. Without the town is a royal inclofure ; and die adjacent country is extremely fertile. This is the eleventh voting town in the Diet. Dahlberg, in his Snecia, has given a view of this place. Hajfelo-Schantz is a fort which flood on an ifland, but now lies in ruins. Here is a cuflom-houfe for fearching all fhips that are bound to or from Nikioping. Nafueqicarn and Staßo are two founderies for great guns : the latter is extremely well contrived. Eriksberg is a large eftate in the parifh of Malm, about four Swediß> miles from Nikioping, on which ftands one of the fineft palaces in the kingdom, with a moft delightful garden. This place affords a quarry of beautiful fpeckled marble. Juleta is a fine demefne near the Oeljani-\ake. A convent formerly flood on the fame fpot. Trofa is an ancient fea-port lying in a mountainous country, with a good harbour. It is the eighty-fixth town that votes in the Diet. Dahlberg has inferted a plate of it in his Suecia. 2. Gripfiolms-Lehn, which contains the following remarkable places. Mariefred, .Sudermannland.] SWEDEN. 321 Mariefred, in Latin Pax Maria, is a town fituated on a bay of the Maler-\ake, fo called from a convent built there in 1490, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary in the year 1 504. A good (locking and woollen ma- nufacture is carried on In this town ; which has the feventy-fixth vote in the Diet. Gripßjolm, which lies near Mariefred, is a royal caftle with a park. A profpecl: of this together with the town of Mariefred is to be feen in Dahl- 6erg's Suecia. . Rafsnas and Tynnelfo are royal demefnes with caftles of the fame names. Strengnas, in Latin Strengnefa, is a very ancient inland town, fituated on the Maler-hke. In the choir of the cathedral in this town King Charles IX. with his two Queens, Duke Charles Philip, and, in a private chapel, Charles Gyldenhielm are buried. Stre?ignas is a Bifhop's See, and has a celebrated gymnaßum or feminary founded in 1626 by Gußavus Adolphus, who at the fame time endowed it with penfions for thirty ftudents. Here is alio a fchool, in which King Gußavus I. received his firft inftructions in the rudiments of learning. In the times of popery here was a convent with a chapel belonging to it. Several Diets have, from time to time, been held in this city. Strengnas is the thirty-firft town that votes in the- Diet, and is exhibited in Dahlberg's Suecia. Königsberg is a fine royal farm, that lies about a Sivedißj mile from Strengnas, which from the time of King Erick Lafpes to the reign of Guf- tavus I. was a convent of nuns. 3. Efchilßuna-Lehn, which contains the following towns, &c. Efchilßuna, or Carl-Guß avfladt, in Latin Efchilßuna, lies at the extremity of the Hielmar-hke, where it runs into the Maler with great rapidity. This town derives its name from - St. Efchil, who came over from England in the year 1082 to preach the Gofpel in Sudermannland, and was the firft Bifhop of this See. Efchilßuna was incorporated with Carl-Gußav-ßadfy which lies in its neighbourhood, in the reign of Charles X. and the muni- cipal privileges were jointly conferred on them in the year 1659. This is the forty-fecond of the towns that have a vote in the Diet. The view of its cauMe makes a good figure in Dahlberg's Suecia. Sunbyholm and Ribbingelund. Thefe are two royal demefnes. Torfhella, in Latin Torflia, is an inland town, about a quarter of a Swediß? mile from the Maler ; and a rapid ftream runs clofe by the town and empties itfelf into the lake. It is under the jurifdiclion of the fame Burgomafter as Efchilßuna. Torßiella is the forty-firft town that votes in the Diet ; and Dahlbcrg has given it a place in his Suecia. Biby, a royal demefne, lies in this neighbourhood. Sudertorn confifts of three Diftricls, which belong to the Government of Stockholm, and is a kind of ifland, being lurrounded with water. The remarkable places in Sudertorn are, Vol. I. T t Sodertelge, 22 SWEDEN. [Sudermannland. Sodertelge, in Latin Telga Aufiralis, an inland-town lying betwixt the fea and the Maler-lake. About half a Swediß mile diitantfrom this town, at a place called Aegelßawyk, is a good harbour. Sodertelge was formerly a flaple- town and in a nouriihing condition ; and there is flill a thriving manu- facture of worfled and filk-flockings in this town. The inhabitants have alfo begun to plant tobacco in the adjacent grounds. In the year 17 19, Sodertelge was burnt by the Ruffian army ; but has been fmce rebuilt. In the fourteenth century a great Provincial afiembly, and in 1494 a Diet was held here. This is the fifty-third voting town in the Diet ; and a view of it may be feen in Dahlberg's Suecia. Carlholm, which lies near a quarter of a Swedijh mile from Sodertelge^ was formerly a royal demefne, with a caflle on it. Dadero, alfo a royal demefne. Brankyrka is a parifh, where a bloody battle was fought in the year 15 18. Among the Scheeren, or rocky iflands on the coafl of Sudermannland are the following remarkable places. Landfort, a point of land that proje&s a great way into the fea, on which flands 1 light-houfe. Elfnabben, or Hielmfnabben, is a fafe harbour, and often mentioned in hiflory. Note. In the fecond volume of Dahlberg% Suecia are profpects of the following feats : Akero, which is fituate on the Tngarn- lake. Ado. Arßa, near which is a harbour in the Baltic ; and two medicinal fprings that run into a cavity below them, and, by a canal, are carried one hundred paces farther to a lower place, where the water in winter and fummer fpouts up like a per- rennial fountain. Haringe, fituated on Langßohln-hke. Ericksberg. Fiohlm. Hanfiawick. Gieddeholm. Heßeybyholm. Horningfholm. Ludgonas. Nykas. Malma. Malfaker, which flands near the Maler-lake. Rin/la. Rafsnas. Sandmare, which flands on a bay in the Baltic. Safweßaholm. Siofa, fituated near a bay in the Baltic. Siohlm, which flands on the bank of a lake. Sunby, near the Hielmar-hke. Sunbykohn, near the Alaler-hkc. Steenhammer. T'ullgarn. Tama. Tynelfo, on the Maler-hke» Torfo. Wybyholm. \\\ N E R I K E, Nerike.] SWEDEN. 323 III. NERIKE, In Latin Ncricia. r ~T^ HIS province is ten Sivedijh miles in length, and eight in breadth. -*■ In moft parts of it the foil is fertile, and produces corn and pafturage. This country alio yields iron and fulphur mines, quarries of load-Hone, alum, lime-ftone, &c. Confequently it has iron foundaries, with fulphur and lead-works. Here are large woods, feveral high mountains, feven con- fiderable rivers and three-and-twenty lakes, which abound in fifh. Ncricia is famous for feveral flourifhing manufactures of all kinds of hard ware ; and it has always been remarkable for forging arms, &c. The chief occu- pations of the inhabitants are agriculture, working in the mines and forges, hunting, and riming; and they trade in grain and all kind of iron-wares. Ncricia, in ecclefiaftical affairs, is divided into four Provoftfhips, and is under the jurifdicYion of the Bifhop of Strengnas, excepting the Paßorat of Nyfund, which is annexed to the Superintendency of Carlfladt. As to its political ftate, this province is divided into * 1. Oß-Nerike, or Eaß-Nericia, which contains four Diftridls, and the following places of note. Oerebro, in Latin Oerebroa, a famous ancient town, fituated on the Hielmar-hke, where the river Schwart runs out of it. It is a long narrow town, with a caftle quite furrounded by water ; and as it had been often be- fieged, King Gußavus I. caufed it to be well fortified ; and farther improve- ments have been made in the fortifications fince that time. In the times of popery here was a Carmelite convent. Oerebro has at prefent two churches, a grammar-fchool, and a manufacture of fire-arms. It has alfo a harbour on the Hielmar-hke, which has a communication with the Maler by means of the river and canal of Arboga ; and confequently there is a paffage by water from hence to Stockholm. The inhabitants carry on a confiderable trade ; and this town is in high reputation for the exadtnefs of its weights and meafures. The Governor of the province refides here. Among the Diets held at Oerebro thofe of 1347, 1 53 1, and 1540 were the moft remarkable. This is the twenty-feventh town that votes in the Diet. Dahlberg has a view of it in his Suecia. .•fv&rg-fulphur-work lies about a Swedißj mile and a quarter from Oerebro : Of the ore dug up here is, firft, made fulphur, afterwards vitriol, and laftly a red colour for painting. Selleivalla and Sioßad are two decayed towns, of which nothing is to be feen but the ruins. * I fuppofe the Author means Eaß and Weft-Kerike 4 but he has entirely omitted the latter. T t 2 Rifeberga 3 24 SWEDEN. [Weftmannland. Rifeberga is a fine eftate, where formerly flood a nunnery, the walls of which are ftill remaining:. At Ratnunda or Romla-Boda are a church, a pott-office, and an inn. Here formerly flood the only Eremitical convent in the whole kingdom. Aßerfund, an inland town, flands at the extremity of the Wette'r-hke. It has an harbour on the lake, and carries on a good trade in grain, nails, and tobacco. Askerfund is the fixtieth voting town in the Diet. Dahlberg has inferted a view of it in his Suecia. Oxoga, a good medicinal fpring impregnated with fulphur, lies about two SwediJJj miles and a half from Oerebro. IV. WESTMANN LAND, In Latin Weßmannia. nr^ HIS province is feventeen SiaediJJj miles in length, and fourteen in •*■ breadth : The foil is fertile and confifts moftly of arable land, with meadows, paftures, and very fine woods in proportion. It alfo contains rich filver, copper, and iron-mines, and very curious copper, fteel, and brafs hammer-mills, and is reckoned the mofl famous province in the kingdom for mines. The iron trade carried on by the inhabitants of Weßmannland is the mofl confiderable in all Sweden ; the quantity of iron exported annually from Weßerahs, Arboga, and Ki oping, amounting to 120,000 lb. The fouth part of the province chiefly confifls of arable and meadow land, and fup- plies the inhabitants of the mine-diflricls with corn ; and the northern parts abound in mine-works and fine woods. Weßmannland is well watered both with rivers and lakes, which yield a vaft plenty of fifh ; and the Maler- lake is of great advantage to its commerce, as it opens a pafiage from this province to Stockholm. The chief fubfiftence of the inhabitants is de- rived from agriculture and the mines, breeding of cattle and fifhing : The woods, hammer-mills, &c. alfo employ a great many hands. The Bifhoprick of Weßmannland, or Weßerahs, is the fifth in rank, and is divided into fourteen Provoflfhips. It includes the greatefl part of the Prefecture or Government of Weßerahs, a confiderable part of that of Nerike or Oerebro, and the whole Diflridl of Copparberg. This province is divided into the Land and M/w-Diflric~ls. 1. The Westmannland Government, properly fo called, includes nine Land and two Mi ne-D\ftii£ts ; in which the places of note are, Weßerahs, in Latin Arofia, a very ancient inland town, where the river Schwart, after it runs through the town, empties itfelf into the Maler. Its name is a contraction of Weflraaros. It is an epifcopal fee, and has a gymnqjium or feminary; a caflle, part of which is made ufe of as a granary; a weigh- Weftmannland.] SWEDEN. 325 aweigh-houfe for metals, from whence a vafl quantity of iron, copper, and brafs is exported every year to Stockholm ; and is the refidence of the Go- vernor of the province. The cathedral is a fpacious and magnificent ftruc- ture ; but is particularly remarkable for the architecture of its tower, and for being the burial place of King Erick XIV. The trade carried on at Wefierahs is very confiderable. This city has often fuffered very much by fire, particularly in the year 17 14. Among the Diets held at Wefierahs, thofe of 1527 and 1544 were the moft remarkable. This is the twenty- fifth town that votes in the Diet j and Dahlbcrg has given a profpect of it in his Sued a. Johannisberg is a royal farm, not far from this city. Badclundfahs is a long, narrow, fandy tract of land about half a Sivedifij mile from Wefierahs, where the Danes were totally defeated in the year 1521. Kila, or Satra, is a famous medicinal fpring on a delightful fpot of land. Sala or Salberg, in Latin Sala, is a fair large mine-town and Mine- Diftricl, fituated on the river Sag. It was built and endowed with feveral privileges, by King Gufiavus Adolphus in the year 1624. The ftreets are ftraight and well paved ; and the market-place fpacious and regular. Here is held a mine-court, a court of works, a town-council, and an inferior court of judicature. To this town belong feveral confiderable eftates ; and the neighbouring villages fupply the inhabitants of Sala with all kinds of commodities at a very cheap rate ; no cultom or duty being paid here. Here is alfo a medicinal fpring. In the year 1736, this town was deflroyed by fire. In 17 10, the royal family chofe Sala for their retreat during a raging peftilence. Not far from the town is a very large ancient filver-mine, which ufed annually to produce 24,000 Lothige marks* offilver: But it is now greatly declined. This is the forty-fixth voting town in the Diet. Dahlbcrg has inferted a view of it in his Sued a. Gulboburg and Baibyburg lie directly oppofite to each other on the rivers Sewa and Kila. They are both large boroughs and inclofed with walls. Engfon is a good eftate with a fine feat, on an iiland in the Maler, and belongs to Count Piper. 'Tidon, which is alio a fine eftate belonging to the Oxenfiiern family. Stromfixlms is a well fituated and very rich demefne, with a mangnificent feat and a church. Dahlberg-'s Sued a exhibits two views of it. Suraburg, formerly called Thuraburg, one of the largcft boroughs in the whole kingdom, is ftill in a pretty good condition, and inclofed within two walls. On the fpot where the church now ftands was formerly a Pagan temple famous for the offerings made there. Super ftitious travellers, in * A Lothige mark is equal to nine ounces twelve penny-weights, Trey weight. 5 pacing 326 SWEDEN. [Weftmannland. parting by, ftill prefent money at the old offering-church , and fome con- gregations have prayers faid here for the recovery of the fick. Davo, or Davidfo, is an iiland lb called from St. David, the firft preacher of the Gofpel in Wejlmannland, who came from England about the year 1060, and founded a convent in this place. It is now a manor belonging to a noble family. Norberg is a parifh, in which are the beft iron-mines in this province. Ktoping, in Latin Kopingia, a handfome old town, fituated at the extremity of a creek or bay of the Maler-lake called Galten. Kioping carries on a good trade, and has a fine iron weigh-houfe. The King's Halbardiers or Life-guards are quartered in this town, which has the thirtieth vote in the Diet. Dabiberg, in his Suecia, has given a profpecl: of Kioping. Near this town lies the Kioping Gerichts-hugel, or Juridical hill, where caufes were formerly tried in the open air. Below the town formerly ftood a royal farm and a caffle, near the river. Kungfobr is a royal demefne. Arboga, in Latin Arbogia, is a handfome ancient town, but formerly in a more flourifhing condition than it is at prefent. The Stor-a, i. e. ' large ' river,' runs through this town, which contains between eight and nine hundred inhabitants, who carry on a good trade. Here are a large iron weigh-houfe, a manufacture of arms, and a mint ; and a part of the King's Halbardiers or Life-guards are quartered in this town. In the year 171 o, the Senate withdrew to this place on occafion of a peflilence that raged at Stockholm. Arboga was formerly well fortified ; and embellifhei with a palace, feveral convents, chapels, and market-places, of which fome re- mains are Itill to be feen : But at prefent here are only two churches {landing. Several Diets and Provincial afiemblies have, from time to time, been held here. Near the town is a remarkable grove where facrifices were offered in Pagan times, with other monuments of antiquity. Arboga is the twenty-fixth voting town in the Diet, and has a place in Dab/berg's Suecia. At the diftance of a quarter of a Sivediflj mile from the town fo the Arboga canal by which there is a communication between the lakes of Hie/mar and Maler. There are nine lluices in this canal. Note. In the fecond volume of Dahlberg's Suecia are views of the feats of Malbammar, Mira on the Helmar-hke, and Tydon on the Maler. 2. Part of the DiftricT: of Fallinsbro and four Mine-Diftricls in Weß- mannland belong to the Government of Nerike : In thefe are the fol- lowing towns, &c. Lindesberg or Linde, in Latin Lindesberga, is a Mine-town and Mine- DiflriSl. It lies on a narrow traft of fand between two lakes. Queen Cbriflina built this town in the years 1643 and 1644; and in the fol- lowing year it received its charter of privileges. Here is a good medicinal lpring. Lindesberg is the fifty-fixth voting town in the Diet ; and Dahlberg has given a view of it in his Suecia. Wedwag Thai-land.] SWEDEN. 327 Wedwag and Quarnbacka, are confiderable forges for fteel, iron, and brafs, eredted in the laft century. Here all kinds of tools, &c. are made in a very curious manner. Nora, a Mine-town and Mine-Dißric~l, is fituated on a lake, which has its name from this town. It was built in 1643, and drives the beft trade of any of the Mine-DißricJs in the kingdom in unwrought iron, which is the beft in Sweden. In the year 173 1, Nora was burnt down; but has been fince rebuilt, and is at prefent in a flourishing condition. This is the fifty-feventh town that has a vote in the Diet ; and a view of it is inferted in Dahlbergs Snecia. Loca is a famous medicinal fpring, whofe water is impregnated with fulphur and nitre. Note. In the fecond volume of Dab/berg's Sued a are views of the man- fion-houfes of EJpelunda, Ekeberg, Giokjholm, and Kagleholm. © V. SWEDISH T H A L-L A N D> In Latin Dalecarlia, or Dali a. 'T v HIS province is fo called from its many values [Tbalern], and is -*■ forty Swedißj miles in length, and fix-and-twenty in breadth. It is very mountainous, and has but little arable land, efpecially beyond Falun : But where the foil between the mountains allows of tillage, it yields plenty of oats and peafe, of which the inhabitants make bread. In the parifh of Ratwich, indeed, fome fine barley grows. This country is almoft every where diverfified with mountains, vallies, woods, heaths, lakes and rivers ■> and abounds in mines of filver, copper, and iron, and with fine quarries of Hate and mill-ftones. The paftures are lb good that grazing turns out here to very good account. The river called Dai-Elbe, the fource of which is among the Norway mountains, confifts of two ftreams; which, after watering the whole country, unite in the parifh of Gagnejs. That branch of the river which waters the eaftern part of this province is called the Oeßer-Dal-Eljwe, and the adjacent country has the name of Oeß-Thal-Land ; and that which runs through the weftern part of the country is called Wefier-Dal-Elfwe, and the neighbouring parts are termed Wefl-Tbal-Land. At length this river dis- charges itfelf into the Baltic fea at Elfkarleby. The inhabitants of this province, who are called Dalecarlians, are fa- mous in Hiftory for their integrity and firm attachment to their King and Country ; but more particularly celebrated for their courage and bravery; and indeed it is probable that they are defcended from the ancient Scythians. They are proof againft toil, hardfhips, and want ; and have thoroughly learned the advantage of induftry and ceconomy, fince they are able to fubfift on their daily 28 SWEDEN. [Thai-land. daily acquisitions in fuch a barren mountainous country. In many parities there is fcarce a man who is not (killed in all neceffary handicraft trades; and in other parts of the Kingdom they hire themfelves out as labourers, car- penters, mafons, &c. They trade in wooden-ware, the bark of birch-trees, hops, flate, lime, fcythes, hatchets, and other iron utenfils. In the north part of this province, and even in the parifhes of Elfdalen, Mora, and Orfa, they fpeak a particular language which has a great affinity with the old Gothic and Ißandic dialefts. They ufe three different dialects; and a German underftands their language much better than a Swede. They ftill retain the manner of living, drefs, and cuftoms of the ancient Swedes, without affecting new fafhions, or modern inventions. The Runßab or Runic Calendar is ftill in ufe among them ; and they carry it about them as a perpetual Almanac. Dalecarlia and Weßmannland make but one diocefe : But in the times of Popery there was a cathedral, with a Dean and Chapter at Tuna. This province belongs to the Prefecture or Government of Kopparberg, and confifts of fix Diviiions, four of which lie in the eaftern part of Dale- carlia, and thefe are 1. Nasgards-Lehn. In this Divifion are the following places of note. Stiemfund, a forge or hammer-mill which is curioufly conftructed. It was erected in 1701, and is put in motion by water. Najgard, an ancient royal manor formerly known by the names of Naf- hohn or Nasboholm. Hedemora, a very ancient town, but in latter times handfomely rebuilt, ftands on the Hajrau-\ake. It carries on a good trade, and has an annual fair on the feftival of St. Peter and St. Paul. Hedemora is the only town in the province of Dalecarlia, and one of the principal cities in the whole Kingdom. It is famous for the gun-powder which is made here. A mint was formerly fet up in this town, by Guflavus Erickfon ; and fome of the pieces coined here are ftill to be feen in the cabinets of the curious. The gardens about this town, in which fruit trees are cultivated, are unqueftionably the moft pleafant in all Dalecarlia. Dahlberg has beftowed a plate on this town and Afweflad in his Suecia. Hedemora has the fifty-fifth vote in the Diet. In the year 1754, this town was deftroyed by fire. Afweflad is a copper-work belonging to the Crown fituated on the Dal- Elbe. It is fo large a ftructure that it refembles a town, and has its own church and congregation. Copper-plates are made, and the fmall copper money is coined here. There is a royal poft-houfe in this place. IVykljyttan or Trollbo, and David's-byttan, are two fteel-manufactories. 2. Saters-Lehn, in which are The parifh of Tuna, where there is the largeft congregation in the whole Kingdom, confifting of between eighteen and nineteen hundred fa- milies. In this parifh lies Hufliaga with a royal manor and a palace, where the Governor of the province refides. Safer, Thai-land.] SWEDEN Safer, an inland town fituated on the Liti/tern-lake, was built in the reign of King Gußavus Adolphus, who often fpent fome weeks here ; but this town had not its charter of privileges till the year 1642. The mint for copper-money was removed from this place to /j/fweßad. It is the eighty- eighth town that votes in the Diet. Satershof, which lies near the town of Safer, was formerly a royal manor, and the refidence of the Governor of Dalecarlia ; but is now taken up by the colonel of the Dalecarlian regiment. 3. Copparberg-Lehn, in which arc Falun, in Latin Fahma, or Gamla Copparberger, i.e.' old copper-mines,' a Mine-Toivn and Mine-DißriSl, lies between two lakes called Warpan and Rimn, and two mountains. It is large and very populous, and its ftreets are regular ; but the houles are all built with timber. One of its two market- places is very fpacious, and handfomly built. On the north fide of it ftands a large .ftone edifice, which is a Court of Juftice; and on the fame market place a public-cellar, granary, and difpenfary are erected. On the eaft fide cf it is a handfom ftone church, the roof of which is covered with copper: the doors are of brafs, and the tower is remarkably high. With- out the town towards the Eaft ftands another church built with ftone, and covered with copper. Falun has a good lchool, a fine copper weigh-houfe, a Mine-Court, and other interior courts. The place where the Governor relides is a little without the town. This is the fifteenth of the towns that vote in the Diet. A little to the Weft of Falun is the famous copper-mine which ufed to produce every year 10,000 tons, and in 1650, io,oco tons 321 pounds of copper : But of late its produce is confiderably decreafed. The depth of this mine is three hundred and fifty Swedijh ells *. A great variety of curious engines belong to this work. A profpect of Falun may be feen both in Dablberg's Suecia and Outhiers Voyage au Nord. The former has alio given a draught of the mine-works. Noor, a royal manor near Falun, is the place where the Governor now refides. 4. Oestliche Thaler, or the Eaft values, in which are Siliaiifors, a fine iron-forge. The great flate quarry in the parifh of Orfa, &c. Two of the above-mentioned fix Divifions lie in the weffern part of Da'e- i.-.rUa ; and thefe are, 1. The weft Mine-District, in which lie Grangarder, or Grange, a parifli with inexhauftible iron-mines ; and Skys-Hytta, a filver-mine. 2. The Western Vallies, containing, The iron- works of Grawendal and Stromsdal ; and The ruinous fort of Lima. * A Swcdiflj ell is about half an Englifi ell. Vol. I. U u NORDLAND, 29 33o SWEDEN. [Nordland. NORD LAND, In Latin Nordlandia* NORDLAND is bounded to the Eaft by the gulf of Bothnia, to the South by Upland and Dakcarlia ; to the Weft it joins to Dakcarlia, Norway, and Lapland; and to the North it borders on Lapland only. Its name is derived either from Nore Jatteo, i. e. ' the Giant Nore,' who was the firft inhabitant of this country ; or from its fituation, which is north of Sweden properly fo called. Nordland in the times of Paganifm was a dif- tincl: Monarchy, to which feveral VarTal-kings were tributary. This country has the advantage of all the other parts of the Kingdom, in the plenty of* timber and venifon it affords; but its rocks and mountains leave but a fmall extent of land fit for tillage. Here are, however, fome fertile fpots and verdant paftures, which are agreeably interfperfed with lakes, rivers, and woods. This province, befides the timber it yields has feveral rich mines, forges or hammer-mills, and other works for metals. Its lakes and rivers abound in fifhj and great numbers of cattle are bred in the country. Here are greater flights of wild-geefe than in any part of the Kingdom ; but Nordland, like Lapland, affords no crabs or lobfters. Birch-trees and oak do not grow wild beyond Upland, fo that thofe trees are very fcarce here. Some fcattered tracts of land in this country are inhabited by the Finlanders. Nordland has nine towns, and comprehends feven provinces. Six of the latter conftitute the Government of ' Wefl-Nordland ; but'the feventh, together with Lapland, belongs to the Government of Wejl-Bolhnia. Thefe pro- vinces are as follows. I. GASTRIC K LAND, In Latin Gaßricia. THIS province derives its name from Gaßrick, which fignifies ' hofpitable,' and contains very little arable land, but confifts of mines, woods, rivers, and lakes, abounding with fifti ; and by an induftrious ufe of thefe conve- niences the inhabitants procure themfelves a tolerable fubfiftance. Gaflrickland confifts of one Land-Dißriä-Jitrifdiäion, and a Vogtey or inferior Govern- ment. The clergy of this province are fubject to the Archbifhop of Upfal. Remarkable towns, &c. in Gaflrickland are the following. Geflt Halfingland.] SWEDEN. 33 r Geße or Geatuk, in Latin Gevalia, is a ftaple-town and the largeft in all Nordland. It is well fituated on a creek of the gulf of Bothnia. The river Geße runs through the town, and fupplies it with plenty of falmon ; it afterwards divides iifelf into three branches", forms the two pleafant iflands of Alderholm and Ißandßoolm, and, about the diftance of half a Swedißj mile from the town, empties itfelf into the main-iea. Geße has the conveniencv of readily forwarding, in hoats, all goods defigned for the lading-place; and is a ftaple-town of fuch antiquity, that it boafts of being founded three- hundred years before Stockholm. Some buildings in this town are of ftone, others of wood, and ibme houfes are partly built with ftone and partly with wood. The ftreets are very irregular, and the market-place is badly laid out; fo that a ftranger would never be able to find it out without a guide. It is a populous town, and has a good Gytnnaßum or Seminary, which was re- moved hither from Stockholm in 1669 ; a fchool ; a fine town-houfe built with ftone ; a very ancient hofpital, rebuilt with ftone in the year 1731; and carries on a very advantageous trade with a great number of lhips. The Company of Fifhermen conftitutes two thirds of the burghers. The prin- cipal inhabitants are traders and manufacturers ; and by that means employ the poorer fort. The caftie, which is ornamented with towers, was entirely deftroyed by fire in 1727, but it has been fince rebuilt; and the Governor refides in it. This town has the thirteenth vote in the Diet. On the ifland of Alderholm are a handfom iron weigh-houfe, a dock, and a landing place for deals, &c. two warehoufes, a large cuftom-houfe, an arfenal, and a magazine. On Ißandfi. . eräl magazines and warehoufes are erecled. A view of all thefe may be feen in Dahlberg's Suecia. Friderichfchanlxe is a fort, which lies about a league from the town on a fmall ifland in the fea. Hillebrun, a medicinal fpring, lies about three leagues from Geße. Eka,- a copper-mine with feveral veins of a certain rich ore, lies in this neighbourhood. II. HALSINGLAND, In Latin Helfingia. 'TpHIS province is'twenty Sicedß miles in length, and fixteen in breadth. A . What little arable land it contains yields good crops ; and the paftures feed great numbers of fine cattle. InHalßnglandzxe very good iron-works, and large forefts ; and its rivers and lakes abound in fifh. Lin-feed are alfo cultivated here with great induftry. Uu 2 The 332 SWEDEN. [Haifingland. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in agriculture and working in the mine-works, grazing, all kinds of handicraft trades, hunting, and fifliing. They alfo traffick in iron, flax, linen, tallow, butter, tar, deal boards, timber ; and wild fowl, as partridges, woodcocks, and moor-hens, of which fome thoufands are every winter carried in fledges to Stockholm. The Helj are celebrated for their courage; having made themfelves matters of feveral coi ntries, where they have fettled and called them by their name. This country maintains both foldiers and failors. Befides the Gothic or Runic calendar, which is every where known, the Haifmgland Runic, as it is called, which differs from the former, is ufed here. Halllngland, with regard to its ecclenaftical ftate, is divided into three Provoftlhips, which are comprehended in the Archbifhoprick of Uffal. As to its political divifion it confifts of a Land-Dißrtc'i-'JuriJc.iclion, and two Vogteys ; and is divided into the North and South Part. 1. The North Part contains the following towns, GV. Hudickfivall, in La: in Hudickfwalli'a, a (mall feu-port town, which formerly ftood in another fituation ; but in 1640 it was built on the extremity of a narrow tract of land. The old town was founded in the year 1582, by order of King John III. and was endowed with the ftaple privileges by the fame Prince in 1590, which were revoked in 1636. It has a commodious deep harbour, and on three fides is furrounded with water. Befides an ad- vantageous trade in deal boards, beams, wooden-chairs, flax, linen, butter, fifh, &c. the inhabitants employ themfelves in agriculture and mechanic trades. Here is a church, and a fchool. In the year 1670, Hudickfivall was confirmed by fire; and in 1714, it fuffered greatly by a like misfortune. In the year 1721, it was totally laid in afhes by the Ruffians; but is at prefent in a flourifhing condition. This is the thirty-fixth voting town in the Diet ; and Dahlberg has given a view of it in his Suecia. Agon is an ifland, remarkable for a good harbour, and fkilful mariners. The ifland of Boldjon, and Hofjlanfudd, a peninfula, which have both good harbours, are in this divifion. 2. The South Part, in which are the following places of note. Sodcrhamn, in Latin Suderhamnia, is a fmall fea-port fituated on the river Liufnan between two mountains. It was firft built by gim-imiths and copper-fmiths ; and obtained its privileges in the year 1620. Its build- ings, for the moft part, are not more commodious or elegant than the peafants houfes in the country: However, the church, which was confecrated in 1693, is the beft ftructure in all Nordland. Here is an old manufacture of fire-arms (but thole made here are inferior to fome others,) and another of linen. The inhabitants carry on a brifk trade in flax, butter, &c. This is the fixty-ninth voting town in the Diet ; and a view of it may be feen in Dahlberg' % Suecia. Stor- Meddpad.] SWEDEN. 333 Stor-jun?frun, an ifland, is a noted land-mark. Flors is a linen-manufa&ory, fo called from the village Flor in which it ftands. Coarie and fine linen, thread-ftockings and night-caps ; likevvife plain and flowered fluff's, a coarie kind of mullin for aprons, damafks for table-cloths, and buckram, are made here ; but thefe are laid to be none of the beft, nor are they durable. Several curious remains of antiquity are to be feen in this country. III. MEDELPAD, In Latin Medclpadia. THIS province is fourteen Sitfedifl) miles long and feven broad ; and is faid to derive its name from the old Scandinavian word Medal, ' the middle,' and a, ' a river,' becaufe it lies between the rivers Niurunda and Tndal. Though this province is very mountainous and woody ; yet it has feveral delightful values of arable and meadow land. The feed is not fown here till about Whitfuntide ; but the corn ripens in ten weeks. Among the forefts, the largeft and moft pleafant is Aflrog ; and next to that Gimdalen, which is about iix Swedijh miles long, and abounds in venifon and game of all forts, as elks, rein-deers, beavers, martens, weafels, linxes, foxes, and wild-fowl. This country alio is agreeably interfperled with lakes and rivers, which fupply it with plenty of fifh. The grain which grows in this province is fuflicient for the fupport of its inhabitants. They have alfo plenty of cattle, and deal in timber, hops, flax, hemp, butter, fowls, and dried filh. Salmon, feals, &c. are alio caught here. Medelpad maintains its quota of failors. In ecclefiaffical affairs it is within the diocefe of Hernofand ; and confifts of a Land-Di/lriSl-Juri/dicHon and a Vogtey. This province is divided into the North and South Part. i. In the North Part, the places of note are Sundjwall, in Latin Sundwallia, a well built fmall fea-port, and the only one in the country. It was built in the reign of Gußavus Adolphus, on the fpot which is now called the Old town, but formerly the Trading" place. In the year 1624, it obtained feveral privileges as a manufactory of fmall fire-arms ; but in 1647, it was rebuilt on its prefent fituation, which is a barren fandy plain betwixt high mountains, by Queen Chrijlina ; and the manufacture of fire-arms was removed to Suderbamn. In the middle of the town is a fmall pond well flocked with a fifh called Karaufch*. A woollen manufacture was lately let up in this town. Here is a dock where feveral large veffels have been built. The harbour, which is about * A kind of fmall carp. See note p. 188, of this Volume. 4 a league 334 SWEDE N. [Jamtland. a league in breadth, is very commodiouc \ and the inhabitants drive a good trade in tar, the bark of birch-trees, deals, wooden-chairs, linen, flefti, cheefe, and butter. Sundfivall is the fixty-eighth voting town in the Diet ; and Dahlberg has given a view of it in his Succia. In Seimiger pariih, which is not far from Sundfwall, formerly ftood a royal palace; and fome remains of an oblong Juridical Eminence and an old caftle are ftill to be feen there. Skian church is the moft remarkable in this country ; for it was formerly a caftle, and is every where full of loop-holes for fmall arms. 2. The South Part, in which lies The pariih of "Tuna, where, in the foot way clofe by the river is to be {een a tomb about ten ells in length, laid to be that of the giant Skarkoter, who was famous for his heroic atchivements, and equally celebrated for his clemency and moderation. In the fame pariih are the harbours of Kalfsimdet and Skepjham?i, and the ruins of feveral fortreffes. IV. JAMTLAND, In Latin Jemtia. THIS province borders on the kingdom of Norway, and is nearly of a circular form, being twenty Swedißi miles in breadth, and four- and-twenty in length. Jamtland, after undergoing many revolutions, was annexed to the crown of Swede?!, by the treaty of Rofchild, in 1658. It is, in general, a mountainous country; but the hills differ extremely from each other in appearance. The weftern part of this province is over-run with vaft craggy rocks and high mountains, which lie on the frontiers of Norway ; and between thefe are deep vallies and rapid torrents : However in fome fpots among the mountains, which are frequently covered with fnow, one meets with fine verdure, and plenty of nutritive paftures. In thefe parts the inhabitants houfe their cattle even in fummer-time ; and thus never fail of breeding fine cows, whofe milk yields excellent butter ; and yet they purchafe beef and tallow from Norway. The eaftern part of "Jamtland is a champaign country, watered with feveral lakes and rivers which abound with nfh. And fuch is the fertility of fome fpots of land in thefe parts, that in a good year when the corn has not been nipt by the froft, the neighbouring provinces are fupplied with grain from hence. Barley is the grain that is moftly fown here : They alfo fow a confiderable quantity of rye, and fome wheat. This country produces oats of an extraordinary goodnefs, and abounds in excellent turnips. Some- times, indeed, the feverity of the froft caufes a fcarcity of corn ; and then the Jamtland.] SWEDEN. 335 the Jamtlanders are obliged to make bread of the pounded bark of trees ; the rye bread being referved for feftivals. In this province many hands are employed in extracting iron from a kind of iron-ore refembling fmall ftones, which are collected in fenny places. Here are alfo alum-quarries, a white and porous calx or chalky earth, fand- ftone, llate, the Lapis ollarius*, fine rcck-cryftals, lead-ore, two new-built copper-works, and a place where falt-petre is refined. Here are great numbers of elks which the Jamptlanders caftrate, in" order to make them grow fatter ; and a mifchievous fpecies of vermin called Lemlar, or Lonelier, are very common in this country. The river Ragunda-Elfwe, which is called Indals-Elfwe by the inhabitants of Medelpad, forms a ftupendous water-fall near the pariih of Ragunda. The falmon, that frequent this river, go no higher than this cataract ; fo that none are caught above it. That this country is very thinly inhabited, is evident from hence, that there are only fix places where Divine Service is performed every Sunday ; that in fome churches it is celebrated every other Sunday, and in others only every third Sunday; and that in all the reft the congregations aflemble but three or four times in a year. There is not fo much as one town in 'Jamtland-, and only eleven parifhes, in which forty-fix churches are eredted. In all thefe parifhes there are but feven hundred and feventeen chimneys, though they make an area of four hundred fquare geographical miles at leaft. Hypochondriac diforders, and fuicide are very frequent in this folitary, defart country. The inhabitants, for the moft part, fubfift by agriculture, grazing, hunt- ing, and fifhing. They alio carry on a confiderable trade with the Nor- wegians, whom they fupply with falt-pans, fteel and iron-ware, and a kind of leather drefled in a particular manner fo as entirely to keep out the water, with which they make fhoes, boots, and even jackets that are proof againft wet. Every peafant is obliged to contribute towards the fubfiftance of the Soldiery ; fo that this country maintains a regiment of foot, or ac- cording to others, of dragoons, at the expence of 31,609 dollars -j- ; and a troop of horfe, the charge of which is 6,2 10 dollars. The "Jemtland-Lappers confift of fomething above one hundred families ; and fince the year 1746 a church and a fchool have been erected for their ufe at Folinge. This country and Harjedal are fubjecl: to the fame provincial jurifdiclion; but it conftitutes a particular Vogiey. The clergy of this province are fubjecl to the Bifhop of Hernofand, and with regard to its ecclefiaftical eftate, it confifts of the North and South Provoftfhips. * See an account of this ftone in note p. 178 of this Volume. t A Sivedißj ftlver dollar, which, I fuppofe, the Author means, is equal to is. 6 J. $ frerling. Jamptland n 36 SWEDEN. [Harjedalen. Jamtlaud, according to its political divifion, confift of the South and North Part. 1. The South Part, in which lies Fro/an, a kind of market-village, which has fomething of the appearance of a town. It lies on an iiland in the Stor-Jio-lake, from whence it has a proipecf. of the whole country ; for it ftands nearly in the centre of it. Here is a fchool, a poft-houfe, and a fort called Kmißadt, which was erected in the year 1710. 2. The North Part, in which the places of note are Carlflrom, a decayed fortification, which ftands on the frontiers of Norway. Fort-Hierpe, which is alio on the frontiers of Norway, and is embellifhed with a tower. But all that remains at prefent of this fortification is only a large biock-houfe. Fort-Dufive, which lies farther up the country, is in a ruinous condition. Near this fort is a Bureau or frontier cuftom-houfe. V. HARJEDALEN. In Latin Herdalia. 'TP HIS province was incorporated with the Swedi/Jj dominions by the treaty of Bremfebro, in the year 1645. It is eighteen Swedißo miles in length, and from feven to eight in breadth. It abounds in mines and woods j and confequently agriculture is not much practifed here. Its paftures, however, are fo excellent, that the inhabitants carry on a very advantageous trade in horned cattle. Its rivers and lakes, like all the reft in the country, abound with fifh. The inhabitants fubfift by grazing, hunting and fifhing j and fell a great quantity of cheefe, which is much efteemed. They main- tain no loldiers in this province ; and feveral places among the mountains are inhabited by Lappcrs. Harjedalen is under the fame provincial Juris- diction with Jamtland; but makes a particular Vogtey. The clergy of this province belong to the South Provoftfhip of Jamtland. 1. In the North Part are the following remarkable places. Liitfhedal, a fine copper- work. La, ^ 'fchqntze, a fort, which was demolifhed in 1734. Funnefäals-By, where there is a frontier cuftom-houfe. San-Fialet, a very high mountain, which is always covered with fnow. 2. The South Part, in which lie Siorbin and Liungdalen, two villages inhabited by fome wealthy Lappers. VI. ANGER- Angermannland.] SWEDEN. 337 VI. ANGERMANNLAND, In Latin Angermannia. '"T^HIS province lies farther north than Harjedalen, and is twenty-four ■*• Swedijk miles in length, and fixteen in breadth. This country is extremely mountainous and woody ; and the remarkably high mountain called Skula, with the vaft and uninhabited foreft of Skula-Jkog, in this pro- vince are well known. However, the foil is fruitful, and in fome parts pro- duces excellent corn ; efpecially on the fouthfide of the Angermamiland river, from Hernofand to the parifh of Botea, and a noble feat or manor called Holm, &c. In thofe parts rye, peafe, lin-feed, flax, and good barley, grow ; and the meadow-lands afford good paftures for the cattle. Here are alfo feveral fine iron-works ; and the lakes and rivers yield plenty of fifh. In the bottom of fome of the ftagnant lakes in this province is found a fine red colour or lake. The Angermannland river is one of the largeft in the whole kingdom, being about a league over at the mouth of it, and navigable for fmall vefiels feveral Swedijh miles up the continent. The falmon-fifhery, in this river, alfo brings in extraordinary profits to this country. This province maintains failors for the royal navy; and confifts of a Land-Dijlricl-Jurifdi£lion and two Vogteys. It is the refidence of the Su- perintendent of this diocefe, which is the thirteenth in rank, and is divided into two Provoftfhips. This Superintendency or bifhoprick confifts of the provinces of Angermannland, Medelpad, Jatntland, Harjedalen, and the whole government of Wejl Bothnia., Kremi-lapmark excepted which belongs to the diocefe of Abo. Angermannland is divided into, I. The South Part, in which are the following remarkable places. Hernofand, in Latin Hernefandia, is a fea-port, and the only town in this country; and ftands on the ifland of ' Hernon near the mouth of the Angermaiin river, where it empties into the gulf of Bothnia. It was built by King John III. in the year 1584, and has a communication with the continent by a bridge of about one hundred ells in length. The timber houfes are built of a great thicknefs, and ftand on the fouth fide of the town on the declivity of a hill towards the fea. On the north fide of the harbour there is a fuf- ficient depth of water for the largeft fhips to come up and unload at the warehoufes ; but on the fouth fide, it is only practicable to flat bottomed veffels and lighters. Hernofand was formerly a ftaple-town, and ftill carries on a confiderable trade, particularly in linen ; and the annual fair held here on the fourteenth of September is the moft frequented of any in Nord- land. A Gytnnafium or Seminary erected in 1648, and a fchool are an ■ Vol. I. X x ornament 33 8 SWEDEN. [Weft-Bottn. ornament to this town ; which is alfo the refidence of the Superintendent of the See of Hernofand. In 1710, 17 14 and 1721, this place was burnt by the Ruffians ; but has pretty well recovered itfelf fince. Near it are feveral tumuli or fepulchral eminences. In the years 1746 and 1748, fome (hocks of an earthquake were felt in this neighbourhood. This is the thirty-ninth town that votes in the Diet ; and a view of it is to be feen in Dahlliergs Suecia. Hammar, an inn and poft-houfe, lies about five Sivediß miles from Her- nofand. Here the iron and wooden-ware exported from this province are fhipped ; for the Aitgermann-xiver is not navigable for veflels of burden. Saleftea, a parifh and bartering place. An annual fair is held here on the feftival of St. Peter and St. Paul. Gieroders-Gard, in Latin Geiraudagardia, was formerly a considerable Royal Manfion-houfe, and the refidence of the Sovereigns of Nordla?id. Hence it derives its name from King Gierauder. Holm is the only Nobleman's feat in all Nordland, and lies about four Swedijh miles from the town of Hernofand. 2. The North Part, in which are Ulfon, a good harbour and fine iron-work, which lies about fix Swediflj miles from Hernofand. Skialewad, a parifh and bartering place, which is about ten Sivediß miles from Hernofand. An annual fair is held here on St. James's day. VII. WES T-B T T IV. In Latin Weß-Bothnia.. BOTTN, or Bothnia, is that large country which extends itfelf northwards on both fides of the Gulf of Bothnia. That part which lies on the weft fide of the Gulf is called Weß-Bothnia-, and that on the oppofite fide is termed Eaß-Bothnia. Of the former we fhall give an account here, re- ferving the latter to our defcription of Fi?iland. The inhabited part of West-Bothnia, which extends from the frontiers of Angermannland 10 the church of "Upper Tornea, is computed to be about fifty-eight Sivediß: miles in length, and its breadth is from fixteen to eighteen miles. A great number of pleafant iflands lie off the coaft of this province. It has alfo feveral forefls, the largeft of which borders on Lapmark, with many lakes and rivers. There are excellent paftures in Weß-Bothnia ; though on the fummit of the high mountains it moftly confifts of mofs, on which the rein-deer generally feed. The country is for the moll part level and the foil tolerably fertile ; and though they fow the corn here very late, it ripens in fifr feven, or eight weeks, according as the place lies more or lefs expofed Weft-Bottn.] SWEDEN. 339 expofed to the North. However, fudden frofts often prove extremely detrimental to the corn ; particularly the frofty nights that often happen in the month of July. There are alio feveral good copper and iron-mines in this province. The inhabitants of Weß-Bothnta are famed for their courage and bravery. They fubfift by agriculture, grazing, hunting, and fifhing. They endure hunger and want beyond any other people, being inured to it from their youth ; and even in fruitful years they mix their corn with chaff and pul- verized pine-bark, to make what they call their Stampe Brot, or pounded bread. They traftick in beams, deal boards, timber, and fhingles, tar, falted and fmoke-dried falmon and other fifh, wild fowl, cummin, train-oil, venifon, tallow, butter, cheefe ; alfo in fables, and lkins of blue and white foxes, ermines, bears, wolves, martens, hyenas, beavers, and rein-deer j alfo in caftor, linen, &c. Thefe commodities are not only carried to other parts of Sweden, but alfo over the mountains to Norway, or through vaft deferts to RuJJia. This country maintains its quota of foldiers. Weß-Bothnia is divided into four Vogteys or inferior Governments : Thefe are fubjed: to the general Government inftituted in the year 1638, which alfo includes Lapmark. It contains two Provincial Jurifdiclions ; and as to its ecclefiaftical State, belongs to the See of Hernofand. 1. The firft Vogtey or Divifion contains the following places of note. Urnen, in Latin Uma, a confiderable fea-port, lies at the mouth of the river JJmea, and was built by King Gußavus Adolphus. It has four ftreets lying in a ftraight line from Eaft to Weft, with feveral others interfering them at right angles from North to South. At the eaft angle of this town is a large area on which the church ftands. Umea has a commodious harbour and carries on a confiderable trade. It is the feventy-third voting town in the Diet; and Dahlberg has a view of it in his Suecia. Umea-Kongs-Gard which ftands near the town, was formerly the refi- dence of the Governor of the province ; but the Governor now refides at a place called Gran near the parilh church of Umea. Bydeas-Kirche, which lies not far from Umea. The parifhes of Nyfatra and Loßmger are alfo in this neighbourhood. Note. Lykfele and Umea Lapma?~k belong to this Vogtey. 2. The fecond Vogtey contains the following remarkable places. Pitea, in Latin Pitovia, is a fea-port fituated on a fmall iiland at the mouth of a river of the fame name. It is joined to the continent by a wooden-bridge, at the end of which a gate is erected. The ftreets run in parallel lines ; but the church ftands a good way without the town, fo that the bridge muft be crofled to go to it. This town has a commodious harbour and a good fchool. Pitea was firft built-in the year 1621, by Gußavus AdolpJms, about half a Swedißj mile higher up in the country : But the town being totally deftroyed by fire in 1666, it was rebuilt on its X x 2 prefent 34-0 SWEDEN. [Weft-Bottn. prefent fituation. Old Pitea is now a large village, confuting of a great number of houfes fcattered irregularly on a fine common. This is the feventy-fourth voting town in the Diet. Dahlberg has given a view of Pitea in his Sued a. Skelleftea and Buretras are parifhes in this neighbourhood. Note. Pitea-Lapmark belongs to this Vogtey. 3. In the third Vogtey lies Lulea, in Latin Lula, a fea-port, which was firft built by King Gußavus Adolphus. Lulea originally flood near the parifh church of Lulea ; but was afterwards rebuilt in the year 1649 on a peninfula, about a Swedißi mile from Old Lulea, which lies clofe by the mouth of the river of the fame name, and has a good harbour. Old Lulea has (till fome ftreets remaining, and refembles a town, but is not furrounded with pallifadoes. This town has the feventy-fifth vote in the Diet, and ranks accordingly. Dahlberg has inferted a view of it in his Suecia~ Note. This Vogtey includes three other parilhes ; and alfo Lulea and. Calix Lapmark. 4. In the fourth Vogtey, or Diviiion, lies Cornea or Tome, in Latin Torna, a little fea-port town confifting of about feventy wooden-houfes. It ftands on a peninfula called Schwentzar, which is formed by the river Tornea where it falls into the gulf of Bothnia. Tornea lies in 65 , 50', 50", North Latitude ; and is faid to be the moft ancient town in Wefi-Bothnia, and the fartheft towards the North of any in Europe. It has three ftreets running in parallel lines from North to South, which are interfered at right angles by fourteen crofs ftreets or lanes. The church is built with timber, and ftands at a little diftance from the other buildings, but within the pallifadoes which indole the town and a pretty large piece of arable land. Divine Service is performed here in the Swedijb language, which is ufed by the Burghers. There is another church built with ftone on an ifland called Biorkhon which lies near the town, in which the Service is performed in the Finnean language for the benefit of the Burgher fervants, and the inhabitants of the adjacent country. All the dwellings in this town, like thofe in the neighbouring country, have a large court, two fides of which at leaft are taken up with apartments, and in the other two are the ftables and barns, and other out-houfes. Thefe courts, in the country habitations, are exactly fquare ; but in the town are of an oblong form. A very confiderable trade is carried on here not only by the Swedes and Laplanders, but the Rußans and Norwegians ; who alfo refort to the trading and bartering places of Tornea, in order to trarfick. In the year 1694, this town was honoured with the prefence of King Charles XI. who, being accompanied by feveral perfons of diftinction and learning, took a view of the Sun at midnight, if it may be called fo, from the church tower at Tornea : For, at that time of the year, the Sun may be feen Lapland.] SWEDEN. feen above the horizon when in the oppofite part of the meridian of Tornea by a fpectator placed at a certain height above the furface of the earth*. This town and the adjacent country from hence to Kittis have lately been rendered famous by the obfervations made in thefe parts by Monf. Maupertins, and fome other members of the Academy of Sciences at Paris, in order to determine the figure of the earth. This is the feventy-fixth voting town in the Diet. There is a profpect of Tornea in Dahlbcrg's Suecia, and a plan of it in Outhiers Voyage au Nord, * or Travels to the North.' LAPLAND, In Latin Laponia or Lappia. ■\I7E mail here only treat of Swediflj Lapland, or, as the inhabitants * * call it, Sameland or Samenolmai ; which, towards the Eaft, is bounded by Eafl Bothnia and Rnßan Lapland, to the South by Jamtland, and borders on Norwegian Lapland to the North and Weft. This country, according to fome computations, is fixty S-wediß) miles in breadth, and feventy in length ; whilft others extend the breadth of it to one hundred and twenty Swedijh miles, and make the length ftill greater in fome places. Lapland is very thinly peopled in proportion to its extent, which muft be imputed to the many inconveniences arifing from the climate, foil, &c. But thefe difadvantages, in many particulars, are exaggerated beyond the truth. This country, indeed, at firft fight makes but an uncouth and difagreeable appearance. For in moft places it abounds with rocks and mountains, whofe lofty fummits feem to penetrate the clouds, and are covered with eternal fnow. In other parts of it nothing is to be feen, for many leagues, but fens, and morafies, with few fcattered birch-trees, fhrubs, and bufhes, ftinted in their growth by the inclemency of the fky. Other parts of Lapland confift of barren heaths and fandy defarts, over-run with mofs, fern and other unprofitable weeds ; one barren wild beyond another with little or no pafture growing on the intermediate fpots. Befides thefe inconveniences the long and ievere winters, the cold, dark, and tedious winter-nights, together with the vaft depth of fnow that covers this defolate region] might feem fufficient to deter every living creature from fixing his abode * Seeing the fun at midnight is an inaccurate way of fpeaking, which the Author makes ufe ef feveral times in this work j but I have endeavoured to render the paflage more intelligible here, and in p. 207, lac. ° in 341 ;42 SWEDEN. [Lapland. in this inhofpitable country. And when, at laft, the heats in the middle of fummer begin to warm the air, Lapland is infefted with fuch fwarms of gnats and flies, that, like clouds, darken the fky, and obfcure the light of the fun. But notwithftanding all thefe difadvantages, Nature has beftowed on this dreary region feveral conveniences, which, if duly weighed, examined, and properly ufed, might in fome meafure reconcile the inhabitants to their native country. It is found by experience, that corn will grow in Lapland \ and there are more dry, than fwampy fpots amidfts its rocks and fandy plains ; nor is it without loofe and clayey foils. When the fummer heats are fet in, the earth is here fooner purified, and the moifture exhaled, than in other places ; fo that one often fees with aftonifhment grafs and vegetables fpring up, and the land tilled, where, a few weeks before, winter appeared with all its horrors. Grafs will grow almoft in every part of the country if it was duly cultivated ; fo that grazing and feeding of cattle might be turned here to a good account. Lapland abounds in all kinds of beafts, birds, and fifhes. The furs and fkins of bears, wolves, beavers, otters, martens, elks, wild and tame rein-deers, hyenas, ermines, hares, fquirrels ; black, red, and white foxes, GV . bring ' a great deal of money into the country. Here are alfo wood- cocks, mow- birds, as they are called ; a fpecies of partridges, moor-hens, falcons, and other large and fmall birds. The fifheries in this country not only afford a plentiful fubfiftence to great numbers of the inhabitants, but enable them to fell a confiderable quantity of fifh to their neighbours. The pearls found in the Lapland rivers are remarkably valuable ; and fwans, geefe, all kinds of wild ducks, and other fea-fowl, unknown in other countries, abound here ; especially in the fouthern parts of Lapland. In the values and along the banks of lakes and rivers, pine, fir, birch, juniper, willow, afp, elder, and other trees are obferved to thrive ; and a moderate plenty of wholfome vegetables, berries, flowers, grafs and other herbs are produced in this country. The woods of pine-trees, which grow here, are more ferviceable than orchards ; that beneficial tree, befides feveral other ufes to which it is applied, being an eflential part of the food of the inhabitants : for a labouring man, who feeds on bread made of the pounded bark of the pine-tree, preferves himfelf in health and vigour, without feeling iiis ftrength in the leaft impaired by it. It is true there are mountains of a prodigious height and extent in this country: but thefe feem to be intended as fences to fhelter the plains from violent winds ; and even the wildnefs and irregularity of them has fomething very entertaining to the eye, both in winter and fummer. Nor are they any obftruclion to travellers ; on the contrary, the alternate fuc- ceflion of hills and vallies exhibits a delightful variety of profpeets. In- fomuch Lapland.] SWEDEN. 343 fomuch that there are fome places in this country which, if they were not included in Lapland, might be reckoned among the moil enchanting fpots in the world. It alfo appears from trials which have been made, that thefe mountains, upon a proper fearch, would be found inferior to none in richnefs of ores and fofills : at leaft the largefl and clearefl rock-cryftals, purple amethifls, topazes, loadflones, quickfilver, native cinnabar, with other minerals and foflils have been found in the bowels of them. The gnats and flies that infeft this climate are, indeed, extremely troublefom ; but this is an inconvenience common to many other countries. Befides, they fwarm chiefly in the woods; and there are methods for fecuring one's felf, in fome meafure, againfl thefe infects. If, at certain times of the year, the days are very fhort and the long nights tedious and irkfom ; this is compenfated by the pleafant luminous fummers, when the fun is vifible, for feveral weeks, above the horizon ; a phenomenon to which the inhabitants of more fouthern climates are entire flrangers. Even in winter, the radiancy of the fnow, the brightnefs of the moon-light, the twinkling of the ftars, and the effulgent corrufcatiors of the Aurora Borealis, afford a light fufficient for mofl of the neceflary oc- cafions of life. Not to mention the twilight, which begins four or five hours before fun-rife, and lafls as long after that luminary is fet. Befides, the inhabitants, conformably to the calls of Nature, fleep away mofl of the dark .feafon, and employ the luminous part of the year in their re- fpective occupations ; fo that they do not fuffer either in their health or circumftances by this feeming inconveniency. The all-wife and bountiful Creator has made a provifion for them againfl the feverity of winter, by the multitudes of animals with which this country is flocked ; whofe foft and warm furs and fkins defend the inhabitants againfl the mofl piercing cold, and preferves them in a comfortable warmth. In great and deep fnows the Laplanders generally keep at home, and if it happens that they are obliged to pitch their tent in the open air on a journey, even this hardihip is no more than what is fupportable ; at leaft it feldom endangers their lives, as there can be no want of furs for clothing, or a Lapland fire, which is procured by laying two billets of pine-tree one over the other, and then kindling them by rubbing them together*. The fnow by its glare not only alleviates the darknefs in winter, but alfo whilft that feafon lafls, renders travelling fafe and eafy ; fo that they need not be under apprehenfions of any fudden impediment in their journeys. They have lately invented a kind of fkates in the ufe of which they are fo dexterous and agile, that many a Laplander has purfued a wolf which had a- defign upon his herd, over the deepefl fnow, and foon overtaken and killed it. And though feveral moraffes and paflure grounds remain frozen, * This paflage is obfeurej and I am not certain whether I have rendered it according to the Author's meaning, 5 & 344 SWEDEN. [Lapland, in fome years, almoft during the whole fummer : Yet in other years, when the fpring fets in early, the earth in moft places, excepting the mountains, is thawed and cheriiTied by the fun-beams as in other climates ; and by the long continuance of the fun above the horizon, the air glows with fuch heat as accelerates the maturity of the fruits of the earth, and infpires the inhabitants with a genial warmth. The time when Lapland was firft peopled cannot be eafily determined, any more than the nation from which its firft inhabitants defcended. That the Lapps were originally one people with the Finns feems inconteftable ; and, probably, their feparation may be dated from the time, when the latter began to leave off their former rude manner of life, to build regular habi- tations, and to apply themfelves to agriculture. Some writers, from the remarkable affinity which the language of the Lapps bears to the Hebrew, their peculiar drefs, their religious obfervance of Saturday as a Sabbath, and feveral other particulars, endeavour to prove that they are originally defcended from the ten tribes of Ijrael. The word Lappen can hardly be thought to be derived from their language : for thefe people do not fo much as know that this is the name given them by the Swedes and other nations; Sabme, or Same, being the name by which they call themfelves in their own language. But whether the word Lapp be derived from the Finnean word Lappu ; or from the Swedijh word Lapp which fignifies a patch or botch ; or from Lappa which in the Nordland language denotes a bat ; or laftly, from Lopa ' to run' muft re- main a doubtful point. It is, however, pretty clear that this appellation was not given them till between the years 1 077 and 1 1 90. They have their own peculiar language, which, though in reality no more than a dialect of the Ftnnean tongue, has fome mixture of other languages, efpecially the Swediß? and Norwegian. Grammars, Dictionaries and other books are now published in the Lapland language. They alfo have different dialects ; and as the Swedes, Lapps, Finns, Danes, and Rnjjians converfe and trade promifcuoufly in Lapland; there is in each of the Lapmarks a certain dialect which is generally ufed and underftood in all of them as the national language. In Lule-Lapmark, the Lappean tongue obtains j and in Tornea and Kimmi Lapmark, the Finnean dialect is ufed. In the South Lapmarks many of the Laplanders underftand Swediß.i, and many of the Swedes fpeak the Lappean language ; and in fome parts the former can converfe in what is called the town dialect, which was introduced by the burghers of fome towns who trade with the Laplanders. The Laplanders are a furprizing inftance that a whole people can fubfift con- tentedly without plowing; fowing, or planting; without fpinning or weaving, brewing or baking ; and without houfes or farms. They employ themfelves in feeding of herds, which is the moft innocent, and moft ancient occu- pation in the world ; and as their lot is caft in a country, where winter engroffes Lapland.] SWEDE N. engrofles the greatefl part of the year, and confequently renders it impofTiblc for them to provide a fufficient quantity of hay and fodder for great herds of cattle, to laft the whole year ; the bountiful Creator has bellowed on them a fpecies of animals that require little or no trouble to provide for. This is the Rein-deer*, which of all tame animals requires the leafl attendance, and procures the greatefh profit and advantage to its owners. Thefe crea- tures provide for themfelves, feeding in fummer on leaves, mofs, and grafs, of which they meet with as much as fuffices even among the mount: 1 and in winter they live only on a fort of mofs which grows in every part of Lapland. They come at this mofs by fcraping away the fnow with their feet ; thefe animals eafily find the fpots where it is to be found by unerr- ing inflincl. During a journey of feveral days with the rein-deer, the only trouble a traveller is at, is either to turn them loofe, or tie them to a tree, where the quantity of food they eat at a time does not exceed a handful. The fole care of the Laplanders is to keep their herds of Rein-deer from going ailray, and to protect them from wild beafls ; and this, efpecially in fummer time, they look .upon as no inconfiderable talk. They have no occafion to houfe the Rein-deer, as they always lie out in the open air without any inconveniency; and when after a flricT: fearch there is no danger from beafls of prey, againft which the Laplanders keep a good look out, they turn them loofe into the woods ; but when they are under any apprehenlion of danger from that quarter, the Rein-deer are watched by the Lapland herdfmen. This animal very much refembles a flag, except that it hangs the head down a little, and the horns project direftly forward. On the fore part of the head, near the root of the large horns, are two fmaller branches ; fo that they feem to have four horns. There are two different fpecies of Rein-deer, namely, the wild and tame. The latter is a well-made, fwift animal ; and fo ufeful to the Laplanders as to fupply the place of corn-fields and meadows, horfes and cows. In winter the Laplander makes ufe of the Rein-deer in travelling, as we fhall mention in the fequel. Its flefli, either frefh or dried, is his chief food ; and all his cloathing from head to foot confifls of this animal's fkin. He alfo exchanges fome of his Rein-deer for fummer clothes, and a tent, which ferves inftead of a houfe. The Rein-deer alfb fupplies his owner with a bed ; and, both winter and fummer, with good milk and excellent cheefe. Of the interlines and tendons he makes thread and cordage ; and the bones and horns the fuperflitious Laplander offers to his idols. In a word, the Rein-deer is every thing to a Laplander, fo that by the lofs of thefe ufeful animals he is entirely ruined. Whilfl he has Rein-deer, he gives himfelf little or no concern about fifheries, mechanic trades, or any other occupation : For very few of thefe people pradife either fifhing or mooting, except it be thofe who are not pofTefled of any Rein-deer. * Rentabler, which is ufually rendered Rain-deer or rather Rein-deer, fignifies a fwift animal, or a creature formed for running, from the Teutonic word Rennen ' to run.' Vol. I. Y y Some 3+5 n 4.6 SWEDE N. [Lapland. Some of them are matters of above a thoufand, and know every particular animal by dividing them into claffes, and giving every one of them a name. Ren is not a Lappean word; thefe creatures all over Lapland being called Palfo ; and the herds are by the Lapps termed Aelo. Every one dif- tinguiihes his own herd by a particular mark on the ears. The Laplanders, with regard to their manner of living and habitation, confifr of two different tribes, namely, the Forefl and the Mountain Laplanders. The former fpend the greateft part of the fummer in the woods, and have no property ; but the latter live among the mountains. The food of the former is moftly fifh and fowl ; whereas the latter chiefly depend on their herds of Rein-deer. The Laplanders in general and efpecially the Forefters, are reckon- ed exceeding good markfmen. They have a great averfion to mining, though ibme of them have found their account in working in fuch mines as were contrived by others, or in carrying away the ore with their Rein-deer. In mod of the Lapmarh the Lapps make it their employment to carry the burghers to the yearly fairs ; and fome of the former, for a reafonable reward, ufually look after the Rein-deer belonging to any of the townfmen, in fummer time. Moft of the Laplanders choofe rather to fleep away the whole day in their tents, than to put their hands to any work ; efpecially if they can live without it : Others, however, whom pinching want has prompted to induftry, give evident proofs that this people do not want a capacity for mechanic trades, nor even, for exquifite pieces of workmanfhip. Their boats and many other utenfils which they make for ufe and ornament, are plain indications of their fkill ; and their fledges are very curioufly inlaid with horn of all kinds of figures. Their horn fpoons, their Runen-Stabe or Runic Kalenders, with their moulds for carting pewter utenfils, their bows and arrows, their packs of cards, and the like, are all of their own making. The Lapland women have a kind of horn perforated with large and fmall holes, through which they draw the tin or pewter into wires of different thicknefs, with which they very elegantly embroider their girdles, clothes, and fledge-furniture. They alfo prepare all kinds of fkins by various methods ; and cut out and few the feveral forts of dreffes ufed among them. The Lapland tobacco-boxes and fnuff-boxes, of which there is an infinite variety, are too well known to be defcribed here. From what I have obferved above it appears that the chief wealth of the Laplanders confifts in Rein-deer, on which they depend for their fub- fiftance and welfare. To them the Rein-deer is all in all. Some of the wealthieft among this people are poffeffed of two or three thoufands of thofe animals; fo that the territory or diftrict belong to many villages in this country contains no lefs than 30,000 Rein-deer great and fmall. But thefe poffeffions are very precarious, not only on account of the depredations made among them by the beafts of prey ; but alio by the various diftempers to Lapland.] SWEDEN. 34.7 to which thefe creatures are fubjedt, and other accidents. Several Laplanders are alio mailers of a confiderable quantity of filver, in rings, buckles, large and fmall fpoons, and cups, &c. which often weigh fevcral pounds ; and money grows daily more and more in ufe among them. But they prefer the Holland Rix-dollar to all other coins, by reafon that the Norwegians, with whom they traffick in fummer, will not take any other money in exchange for their goods. There have been inftances of fome wealthy Laplanders who, at their death, befides 3000 heads of Rein-deer, have left as much money and plate behind them as two ftrong men could hardly drag along. Many of thefe people have a way of burying their treafure, which feldom comes to light afterwards. The reft of their fubftance confifts of domeftic utenfils, and other furniture ; as tents, iron pots, copper and brafs-kettles, furrs and other clothes, bed-furniture, fine fledges with harnefles, hatchets, boats and filhing-tackle, the value of all which, taken together, amounts to a confiderable fum when they are firft bought by young houfekeepers. As to the poorer fort they are obliged to put up with fewer conveniences. As grazing or feeding their herds of Rein-deer is the chief occupation of the Laplanders, they are obliged to Ihift their habitation very often in a year. For in winter time, when the mountain Lapps come down into the woods, they are hardly ever obferved to continue a fortnight together in one place. At the approach of fpring, molt of them with all their families take a journey of twenty or thirty Swedißj miles among the mountains of Norway, as far as the North-Sea, where they fix their abode till autumn ; and then they quit the mountains, for otherwile they would be frozen to death for want of fuel, and their Rein-deer would be ftarved ; there being no mofs for them to feed upon. They fpend the fummer upon the mountains, as the lands for which they pay taxes to the crown lie there ; for in the winter whilft they live among the woods, they take up tracts of land which belong to other people, for which they alfo make them fome acknowledgment. Befides, the Rein-deer thrives beft on the mountains in the fummer feafon. Their manner of living, indeed will not admit of dwelling conftantly in one place, as is manifeft from the Lapps that dwell in the village diftriäs, or live by fifhing, over all the Lapmarks j who though they make no excurfions to the mountains, yet never fettle in one place ; but while they filh or look after their Rein-deer rove from place to place, and from one lake to another. This the Rein-deer, in fome meafure, oblige them to do ; for at a certain time they (hew a difpofition to remove, whether their owners will or no, either fur want of fodder, or becaufe they are fenfible of the approach of fpring. This unfettlcd way of life lays the Lapps under a necefiity of providing themfelves with portable dwellings ; and fuch are their tents, the conftruc- tion of which is as follows. They firft fet up feveral poles or flakes in a circular pofition, gradually doling together towards the top almoft in the form of an imperfect cone, or a fugar-loaf with the top of it broken oft". Yy 2 Over 348 SWEDE N. [Lapland Over thefe poles they lay a kind of coarfe cloth, which the Swedes cal Walmar, or pine boughs. One of thefe booths generally has room for twenty perfons. The hearth is in the middle of the tent, with ftones laid round it to prevent the fire from fpreading. An aperture is left at the top, where the poles almoft join, which ferves both for chimney and window. From this hole hang two iron-chains with hooks at the ends of them to hang the pots on, in order to boil their victuals, or melt the ice or mow into water to drink. Round the infide of the tent they lay their clothes to keep out the cold wind, and fpread branches of birch or fir round the tent by way of feats to fit upon ; for they have neither chairs, ftools, nor benches. About the tent ftand the cupboards or pantries, where they keep their provifions, on pofts or blocks of woods, fo that they look fomething like the pigeon-houfes, which are erected on pillars. This is done as a iecurity againft vermine. When they can poffibly do it, the Laplanders pitch their tents near dried pines for the conveniency of fuel j but in fpring and autumn they are forced to be contented with brufh-wood. It muft, however, be obferved that in fome of the Lapmarks the Lapps erect boarded cottages, or wooden-houfes refembling thofe of the Swedes. Their carriages are a kind of fledges, which are fhaped like fmall boats with a broad keel, and of fuch a thicknefs that no water can penetrate through them. They have alfo a back board for the traveller to lean againft, who fits faft laced in the fledge, and well fecured from the cold. This vehicle is drawn by the Rein-deer, and generally thofe of the wild fpecies, and carried with incredible fwiftnefs though forefts and valleys, and over mountains. The Rein-deer is harnaffed with a large cloth girt, embroidered with pewter-wire and faftened on his back. The bit is a piece of thick leather tacked to the reins of the bridle which goes over the head and neck of the deer ; and from the breaft a leather flrap pafTes under the creature's belly, and is faftened to the fore part of the fledge, fo that it ferves inftead of fhafts to the carriage. In fummer time the Rein-deer in a great meafure lofe their vigour and celerity : However they do very well for carrying the Laplanders effects from one place to another, if they are loaded in a proper manner. Befides thefe fledges the Laplanders ufe a kind of Skidders or fkates like thofe ufed by the Finns and Nordländers. Thefe confift of a board three or four ells long and fix inches broad, ending in a point which turns up before. With thefe boards faftened to their feet, and a pole with a round piece of wood at the end of it to prevent its finking too deep into the fnow, the Laplanders Aide with fuch fwiftnefs as to overtake bears and wolves. In fummer-time the Laplanders, efpecially thofe who practice fifhing, and live in South Lapmark, make ufe of a kind of boat or little barque, for croffing rivers, &c. Thefe are made of very flight boards curioully joined together with filaments of the roots of trees, or hempen firings -, and are Lapland.] SWEDEN. 349 are fo light, that a Laplander carries his boat on his Shoulders with the oars and every thing that belongs to it, belides his provilion-bag, where- ever he pleafcs. They fteer them with prodigious dexterity even among rocks, and down the moft rapid water-falls ; and though the cataract be never fo frightful, and the Laplander ever fo great a ftranger to it ; yet he undauntedly ventures down the precipice in his little boat. When he goes againft the ftream and comes to a water-fall he puts afhore, takes his boat upon his back, and travels on till he comes tofmooth water. In the northern Lap/narks they ufe larger boats, which are four or five fathoms or more in length. Thole are either haled up the great water-falls with ropes, or in the lefs rapid cafcades are fhoved up with poles by two men, one of whom fits at the head and the other at the Item. As for going down the water- falls with the ftream, they look upon it as attended with no difficulty. The flefh of the Rein-deer is the ufual food of the Laplanders, who have neither wheat, rye, barley, nor any other grain, except what little they buy in the villages, and of the burghers. The flefh is not the only food which thefe animals afford them ; for they yield them milk of which they make cheefe, &c. There is, indeed, a difference between their fummer and their winter diet. The mountain Lapps in fummer live chiefly upon milk; and of this, and likewife the cheefe made of it, they lay up a ftore for winter, fteeping feveral kinds of berries and herbs in it. In the month of September, before the cold weather and piercing froft let in, they kill what numbers of their Rein-deer they think will fuffice till Chrißnias. After this they kill as many as will ferve them for the reft of the year, when they are fatteft; and fometimes they kill one or two occafionally. The more wealthy fort among the Laplanders fometimes in fummer buy Norway cows and fheep, which they milk, and afterwards kill for their winter provifion. They alfo eat the flefh of bears and beavers, fea and wild-fowls, &c. The poorer fort among the Laplanders, who live in the villages, even content themfelves with the flefh of dogs, wolves, foxes, horfes, &e. to fatisfy their craving appetite. The fifhing Laplanders live on the fifh they catch, and to gratify their palate have various ways of drefling them. Thofe who have Rein-deer, on high days and feftivals drefs flelh and fifh together. In fummer they buy their fait from the Norwegians-, and in the winter-time they purchafe it of the burghers. Tobacco is not very rare among them ; but is fold at a high price. None of the women have a hand in dreffing victuals ; that being the office of the matter of the houfe, affiled by his fervant. They never omit faying Grace before and after meat, nor to fhake one another by the hand before they rife from table. Their drink is chiefly water. As for brandy, it is prohibited among them ; but if they can come at it, they pay but little regard to this pro- hibition. Marriages ;5 o SWEDEN. [Lapland. Marriages among the Lapps depend wholly on the pleafure of the parents, who pay no manner of regard to the diipofition of their children : and as intereft is their chief view in thefe alliances, it is feldom known in Lap- land that one of the parties that come together is rich and the other poor. A widow that is decrepit with age, and deaf and blind to boot, will- never want fuitors here, if fhe be rich. They feem to difapprove of marriages among relations, and even intimate friends ; and polygamy has never ob- tained among them either in antient or modern times. When the parents have determined to choofe for themfelves a daughter-in-law at any certain place, they take their fon, however unwilling he may be, along with them ; and, accompanied by fome of their near relations, go to the dwelling of the fon's future father-in-law, always carrying fome brandy with them. This liquor is the firft and moft powerful pleader in behalf of the match ; and the acceptance of it is reckoned a good prefage of fuccefs : But if the treaty comes to nothing, the young woman's parents are obliged to pay for all the brandy ufed during the courtfhip*. If the marriage takes place, an agreement is made about the money and goods which the bridegroom's parents are to give to thofe of the bride, and the prefents which they are to make to the bride's neareft relations. On the other hand, the bride's parents are obliged to give the new married pair fo much furniture and Rein-deer, as a kind of an equivalent for the prefents they have received ; and the bride's relations are alio to make fome returns for their prefents. The poorer fort marry without any of thefe previous ceremonies ; every one providing according to his ability at fuch times. The marriages are folemnized in the churches ; and at this ceremony the bride puts on fuch a feigned timidity and obftinate reluctance, that fometimes force muft be ufed to get her to the church. After the ceremony, the company return to their tents, where they have a feaft ; every one bringing his portion of pro virions which, in the dreffing and ferving up, are all jumbled together, and every perfon who is prefent eats in what manner he pleafes. The Laplanders are accufed of making fo little account of the marriage-bed, as even to be panders to their own wives j but this heinous charge has never been made good. Their children are inured to hardfhips from their birth ; in their infancy they are fecurely laced up in their little cradles, which are fufpended in the fmoke at the top of their- tent, and rocked by pulling two cords that hang down from each fide of it. The Lapps are very careful in teaching their children to earn a comfortable fubiiftence, by accuftoming them, as they grow up, to all kinds of work practifed among them ; but have a great averfion to fchools. * It appears by this cuftom that the prohibition mentioned above by the Author amounts to nothing at all, or that there is no other prohibition but the deaind's of that Jicjucr, and their inability to purchafe it, 2 Thq Lapland.] S W E D E N, 351 The Laplanders are generally of a brown and fwarthy complexion, which feems the necefläry confequence of their fordid way of living, and being fo much in the fmoke, and expofing themfelves to the air in all weathers. The hair of both fexes is black ; and their faces arc broad, with peaked chins and hollow cheeks. They are generally of a middling ihture. The change of modes and fafhions in drefs is unknown among them ; their conftant habit being furs, and a coarfc kind of cloth called Wahnar. In their converfation and behaviour the Lapps adhere ftricfly to their na- tional cuftoms and ufages, one of which is to kifs each other by way of falutation. In fome of the Lapmarh or provinces of Lapland^ thefts are feldom or never heard of: But in others, this crime is no lefs common than among other nations. Self-intereft is a predominant principle in all their tranfact ions, and prevails even in the prefents they make. They feem to be naturally very low fpirited and timorous* fo that every little accident alarms them. They have an averfion to war, and dread ferving in the army ; in confequence of which very few of them are employed that way. But they are not fo dull of apprehenlion, and void of natural parts, as is generally imagined. Though the inhabitants of all the Swediß Lapmarks profefs the Chri- ftian Religion ; yet in many parts fuch grofs ignorance and errors prevail, as have but very little tindfure of Chriftianity ; the only figns of it confifting in their being baptized, and calling themfelves by the name of Chriftians. What renders them extremely tenacious of their Pagan rites and cuftoms, is the high idea they entertain of their anceftors, looking upon whatever they did as reafonable, juft, and commendable. As to their Mythology, they term the Supreme God and Sovereign of all things, and of good Spirits, °Jubmel ; and the Prince or chief of the evil Spirits they call Perkmel. But as they attribute to the evil Spirit an equality of power with God, it is no wonder that, like other Pagans, they fhould endeavour to obtain the favour of this evil Being, and render him propitious, that he may not hurt or annoy them. Thor or Ajike they look, upon as a kind of God that is both a good, and an evil Being at the fame time. Befides thefe and fome other Deities, they likewife have a great many Demi-gods. As for images, they make them both of wood and ftone ; but they pay the greateft reverence to the latter fort. They generally bring the horns and bones of their Rein-deer to the altar of Offerings. When the Laplanders come within fight of the place where the iuol ftands, they uncover them- felves, make low bows, and creep on their hands and feet to the ftones where they make their offerings. This character can hardly be reconciled with what the Author ohferves above, concern- ing their intrepidity in rowing down the water-falls, puriuing wild-beafts, &c. A great 35 2 SWEDEN. [Lapland. A great deal has been faid of the fercery practifed by thefe people ; but fame has very much exaggerated the truth, and magnified their fkill bevond what it is in reality. Very few of the Laplanders pretend to be fkilled in magic j and when any thing fingular feems to be brought about by their magicians, it is as extraordinary and as much a matter of wonder as among other nations. The notion they have of their forcerers is, that by a form of words, or fome other means, they reflore health to the fick, and -Divifions. Thefe Lapps pay contributions both to Sweden and Norway. 2. Ran, which lies alfo among the mountains. 3. Granbyn, which confifts of forty-two Lapps-dwellings, fix of which pay taxes to Sweden and Norway, but the reft are tributary to Sweden only. 4. XJmea-byn, which confifts of fixteen L^^-habitations, is tributary to Sweden alone. This Village-Diftrift is twenty Swedijb miles in length. IV. PITEA- 35 8 SWEDEN. [Lapland. IV. PITEA-LAPMARK. THIS province joins to Weß-Bothnia on the Eaft, to Vmea-Lapmark on the South ; it borders on the mountains to the Weft, and on Lidea- Lapmark to the North. The filver-mine of Nafa-Fial is not wrought at prefent. Veins of filver-ore have been alfo difcovered in other parts of this Lapmark or Province ; which confifts of two Paßorates, namely, 1. Arwidsjaur, or Arfwidsjerf, where there is an edifice for a court of juftice, a Governor's houie and a Market-Place ; to which the Burghers of the town of Pitea, which lies about twelve Swediß miles from this place, refort to traffick at the fair. Arwidsjaur, the only Lapp-village in this Paßorate, confifts of thirty-eight Lrtppean-famWies who pay taxes only to the crown of Sweden. 2. Arjcplog lies ten Swedißj miles from Arfwidsjaur, near the mountains, and on the banks of the large lake of Homawam. In the year 1743, a fchool was founded here for fix young Laplanders, and a church at Silbojock which depends on the mother church at Arjephg. The whole community confifts of five Lö^-villages, which are Lurkty or Loclea, which confifts of twenty i>/>^wz-dwellings. Mahas, or Nordweß-Dorf, confifting of thirty-one dwellings. Simesjaur, or Simesjerf, which has twenty-fix dwellings. Niarg, or Sudweß-Dorf, which is inhabited by twenty-fix Lapps, who have only one Wood-Dißritt, and pafs the fummer in Norway. Arjeplogs-Dorf, a village confifting of thirty-two dwellings. All thefe villages are tributary to Sweden only. There is but one new built village, properly fo called, in Pitea-Lapmark, which lies about a Swedißj mile and a half from Arjephg church. V. LULEA-LAPMARK. THIS province lies ftill farther north than Pitea-Lapmark, on the river Lulea. It joins to Weß-Bothnia on the Eaft, to Pitea-Lapmark on the South, to Norway on the Weft, and to Tornea-Lapmark on the North ; and is for the moft part over-run with woods and mountains, though not without fome level ground. The corn is obferved to ripen here fooner than in the fouthern provinces of Sweden. For inftance, barley ripens in fifty-eight days, namely from the thirty-firft of May to the twenty-eighth of Jidy ; and sye in fixty-fix days, namely, from the thirty-firft of May to the fifth of Augufi. Lulea-Lapmark confifts of two Paßorates, viz. 1. Jockmock. Lapland.] SWEDEN. 359 i. Jockmock. Near this church a fchool was creeled in the year 1730 for fix young Lapps. Here are alfo a manor-houfe, an edifice where a Court of Juftice is held, and a Market-Place frequented by the burghers of Lidea, which lies about eighteen Swedijh miles from hence, of whom the Lapps buy brandy, tobacco, cloth, and iron utenfils, which they procure for fkins, cheefe, and tongues of the Rein-deer, and fometimes for thole animals alive. To this, as the mother church, belongs that of Quickjock, which ftands near the filver-mine of the fame name, about fifteen Swedijh miles nearer the mountains than Jockmock ; and this is the ftated rcfidence of the Pallor. The whole community, exclufive of the colonifts, coniifts of four Village-Diftric'ts, namely, Sirkas, Turpen, Jockmock, and part of Sockjock. 2. Gelliware. This Paftorate was feparated from Jockmock in the year 1742, and is fo called from the iron-mine of Gelliware-, where a Community is fettled, which, befides a great number of colonifts, inhabits two vallies, namely, Keitom-wom-a and Tei/J'o-woma, together with Nederby which makes a part of Sockjock. Gelliware lies directly under the arctic Polar Circle, about lixteen or eighteen Swedijh miles North-north-weft from the town of Lidea. Thefe Lapps pay their contributions to Sweden only. In this Lap- mark are fourteen new-built villages, and feveral veins of filver, lead, and iron -ore. VI. TORNEA-LAPMARK. f ~T y ORNEA Lapmark lies along the river Tornea, and to the Eaft is bounded "*• by Kiemi Lapmark, to the South by Weß -Bothnia and Lidea- Lapmark, to the Weft by Lulea-Lapmark, and to the North by the Kingdom of Nor- way. In fome parts of this province one meets with level grounds ; and it alfo affords good falmon-fifheries, copper and iron-ore. Tornea-Lapmark coniifts of two mother churches and two others dependent on the former, which are, 1. Juckas Jerfwi, a Paftorate lying on the river Tornea, about thirty-four Swedijh miles from the town of Tornea, has a manor-houfe, an edifice where a Court of Judicature is held, and a Market-Place, to which the burghers of Tornea refort to traffick. This parilh from North to South is twenty-two Swedißj miles in length, and about eighteen in breadth from North-eaft to South-weft. The diftance from the Market-Place to the neareft mountains is computed to be fifteen Swedißj miles ; and it is about two Swedijh miles farther over the mountains to the North-Sea. Here are two villages ; namely, Tingewara, which lies next to Norway and coniifts of three Lapps-dwellings : and Siggewara confifting of eighty-eight dwellings : both pay tribute to Sweden. Here eight new peafants villages were alfo built by the colonies that fettled in this country. 2, Enontekis 6o SWEDEN. [Lapland. 2. Enontekis is a church and congregation dependent on the Paftorate of Juckasjerfwii and lies about fourteen Swediß miles to the north of it. in the year 1 744, a fchool was erecled in this place. Here are likevvife a manor-houfe, a Court of Judicature, and a Market-Place, whither the Burghers of Tomea come to trade, though it lies at the diftance of forty Swe&fh miles from that town : This parifh confifts of three villages ; namely, Raumda, confining of forty-five, Peldo-Jerf of eleven, and Sundawara of thirteen L#/>/>-dwellings. It pays taxes only to Swede?!, and contains eleven new-built villages. 3. The Paftorate of Kautokeio, which lies forty-five or fifty Swediß miles from Tomea, confifts of three Village-Diftricls ; namely, Kauto-keitno, which lies among the mountains and confifts of thirty- eight Ltf/>/>-dwellings, tributary to Sweden ; Wio-wara, which lies alfo among the mountains and confifts of twenty-two X/ö^-dwellings, tributary to Sweden, with a manor- houfe, a Court of Juftice and a Market-Place ; and Teno, which confifts of four Z,tf/>/>-dwellings, and contributes to Sweden like the two former. At both the laft places alfo fome new villages have been built. 4. Utsjocki is a church dependent on the preceding, though it is thirty Swediß miles diftant from it, and has a manor-houfe, and a Market-Place. The Lö/>/>-villages here confift of forty-one dwellings, which pay their con- tingencies to the Crown of Sweden. VII. KIEMI-LAPMARK. 'TpHIS province is bounded to the Eaft by RuJJian Lapland, to the South ■*■ by Eafi-Bothnia ; to the Weft it borders on Tornea-Lapmark, and to the North on the Danifl) and RuJJian Lapland. The country for the moft part confifts of plains and moraffes ; and the inhabitants chiefly fubfift by catching beavers and wild Rein-deer. Places of note in Kiemi-Lapmark are, 1. Kusamo, the royal mother church, in which are the following villages. Enara-by, where there is a chapel, with a manor-houfe, a Court of Judicature, and a Market-Place for an annual fair. It lies feventy Swediß) miles from the town of Tornca, (the inhabitants of which frequent this place to traffick,) and contains fifty Lapp- families. Sombio-by, which has a manor-houfe, an edifice where a Court of Juftice is held, and a Market-Place. The induftrious Burghers of 'Tomea trade alfo to this village, which confifts of twenty-three L^-families. New farm- houfes have been built here in eight feveral places. Remi-kyla-by, like the foregoing, lies on this fide the mountains, and confifts of eight Xß/^-families. Kualojerfwi-by, which confifts of thirty Z/rf/>/>-families. 5 Kitka-by Finnland.] SWEDEN 361 Kitka-by, and Kujano-by, confifl each of fourteen Lafp-hmilies and forty new fettlements. All thefe villages are tributary to Sweden. 2. Sadankvla is a church dependent on the Paftorate of Kufamo, and lies about twenty-feven Swedißj miles from Tornea. It confifts of the two following villages. Sadankyla-by, inhabited by thirty-three i>/>/>-families and fix farming peafants. Kittala-by, which confifts of twenty-three Ltf/>/>-families and nine new built farm-houfes ; and has a manor-houfe, an edifice in which a Court of Juftice is held, and a Market-Place. Both thefe villages pay an annual ac- knowledgment to the Crown of Sweden. FINNLAND, In Latin Finlandia^ Fennmgia^ Fennonia, or Venedia. THE etymology and fignification of this name are very uncertain. Some derive it from that of the Wenden or Vandals, who inhabited the countries lying on both fides of the gulf of Finnland. Others will have it de- rived from the Gothic word Fin or Fen, which fignifies a fen or morals'; for they are very common in Finnland. Many other conjectures concerning the origin of this name, I omit for brevity's fake. In the Finnland language this country is called Snomi, Suomcnma, Suomima, and Suomen-faari . It lies to the Eaft of Sweden properly fo called, making that angle or traft of land on each fide of which the Baltic is divided into two gulfs, namely, thofe of Bothnia, and Finnland. This country was formerly governed by its particular Sovereigns ; but at prefent it has the title of a Great Dutchy. In the twelfth century great pains were taken for the converfion of the Finns to Chriftianity ; and Henry, who was Bifhop of Upfal in 1 1 57, fell a martyr to his zeal in carrying on that pious undertaking. That Prelate founded the firft cathedral in Finnland, at Randamaki ; but the See was afterwards removed to Abo, which lies in the neighbourhood of the former. Martin Skytte and Peter Strkilar were the firft preachers of Luther's doftrine in this country. Finnland contains about 3000 fquare Swedifl} miles ; and is naturally fer- tile, . but not properly cultivated nor fufficientiy peopled in proportion to its extent. This could not be completely done by lefs than three millions of labouring hands, who might here fubiifr. in a plentiful manner. But even before the late wars, all the inhabitants of Finnland, including thofe in the towns and in the country, fcarce amounted to a million of fouls. Vol. I. A a a -The 6 2 SWEDEN. [Finnland. The Finns have, from time immemorial, been accuftomed to fow on ' 'Sß-land, as it is called, and to dry their corn. They divide the Swedje- knd or Brem-Iand, i.e. 'burnt land,' into three kinds. Thefe are i . Huckta or Halme, which is a large tract of land covered with wood, and cleared when the leaves of the trees are full grown. For this -fort of land a great quantity of old thick wood, and all kinds of white fir-trees are ufed ; and this wood, after it is felled, lies two years before it is burnt, Such land ferves only for rye. 2. Ka/ki, which is a fort of land where the wood which grows on it is fomething fmaller, and may be burnt within a year after it is felled. This may ferve both for corn and turnips ; but it is generally fown with rye. %. Kiejkammaa is covered with a fmall low wood, growing on eminences, which is felled in the fpring ; and the boughs and tops of the trees are lopped- off. When the wood is dry, it is burnt ; and then the field is fown with wheat or other corn, as foon as the burning is over : Buck-wheat, indeed, is fown fomething later, andlin-feed when the bullies begin to bud the follow- ing fpring. The trees are fet on fire in this kind of land about the middle of fummer, when the weather is very dry j and the fire is fpread along the grafs which had not been burnt before. As foon as the fire is extinguifhed, the corn is fown that very fame evening, that the afhes may not in the night-time be blown away by the wind, but adhere to the feed by means of the dew. After this they plow the ground with a forked plough called Kaßi-Sara, and harrow it with a wooden harrow, as the ufual plough and iron harrows would be of little fervice among ftones and flumps of trees. The feed is but very thinly fown in thefe allies. This procefs of burning, fowing, ploughing and harrowing is fometimes continued for a whole year on the lame piece of land ; and if every thing fucceeds, it yields thirty or forty fold : Nay there are fome inftances of its producing one hundred, and even one hundred and fifty fold. Here is alfo a kind of land called Kytoland, which muft not be omitted. This confifts of moraffes and mofiy grounds, where, by way of trial, a clod is burnt ; and if the allies prove red, it is a fign that the ground will produce corn, on proper culture, for a confiderable time ; but if the allies be white it (hews the foil to be barren. In order to improve fuch places, the water is drained off, and what wood grows on the fpot is felled. After fome years the ground is drained by means of a ditch cut all round it, then cleared of the flumps and roots of trees, and afterwards plowed feveral times. When it has lain fallow fome time to dry, the turf is fet on fire ; and immediately after this burning, the land is plowed and harrowed again, that the wind may not blow away the alhes. The ground being thus prepared it is fown with rye at the ufual feafon of fowing that grain. They have feveral other methods of trying land that is covered with mofs or flime. In IVilborg-Lehn, the country about Wilmanfirand, in fome parts of Ca- relia and Tavrjlland, and likcwife all over Sawohrx, buck-wheat is chiefly 2 fown : Finnland.] SWEDEN. 363 fown ; as it turns to better account in thofe places than any other corn, and is ufed for bread, &c. But the poorer fort, for want of better food, dry even ftraw ; then bruife and mix it up with fome meal, and make bread of it. The paftures here are fo rich, that great profits accrue to the inha- bitants from grazing ; but the breed of cattle in this country is very fmall. Here are confiderable woods of pine trees ; fo that vaft quantities of wood and charcoal, timber and boards are lent from hence to Stockholm for exportation. This country alio abounds with all forts of game ; and feveral forts of fruit, as apples, pears, plumbs, and cherries. Finnla?id is every where watered with lakes, rivers, and brook?, which yield plenty of fifh ; and very fine pearls are found in the pearl-fifheries, and fold to foreigners at a great price. In the lakes and moraffes is dug up a ferruginous earth, from which iron is extracted. Lead-ore is alfo found in feveral parts of this province. Along the Finnland coafts lie great numbers of Scheeren, or fmall rocky iflands. Though Finland is a fertile country, and naturally enjoys a greater plenty of all the neceflaries of life than any other part of the Sivedi/h domi- nions ; yet the terrible calamities it underwent in the laft war have brought it fo low, that it makes but a melancholy appearance ; and its inhabitants, who are famed for their courage and bravery, are reduced to great diflrefs. The language of the Finnlanders is quite different from moft of the other northern dialects ; but, like that of the Lapps, with which its idiom per- fectly agrees, it has a great affinity with the Hebrew. Finnland is divided into five provinces ; which I fhall defcribe in their order. I. F I N N LA N A properly fo called. In Latin Finlandia ßricie ßc dic7a, with the Lehn or fief of Biorneborg, which belongs to it. / "T" V HIS province lies at the angle where the gulfs of Bothnia and Finnland -"- join, and directly oppofite to Upland and Ge/lrickland. It is about twenty-nine Swedijh miles in length, and eighteen in breadth. The foil is very fertile ; and the country yields pleafant profpects efpecially in the fouthern parts, where it is diverfified with fine lakes, rivers, corn-lands, meadows, paftures, hop-gardens, woods, and fome iron-works ; but the north part of Finnland is not fo well cultivated. The Lehn or fief of Biorneborg is one of the' moft fertile parts in all Finnland, and the moft commodioully lituated. In the pariuS of Saßmola, which lies in this Lehn, is a rich pearl-fiihery, where pearls of an extraordinary fize are found, for the moft part, lingie j but fometimes a clufter of two or three pearls are found in the fame fhell. A a a 2 The 364 SWEDEN. [Finnland. The inhabitants of this country fubfift by agriculture, grazing, fifhing, and making wooden-ware ; and traffick in grain, meal, cattle, butter, talc, linen, yarn-ftockings, &c. The bifhoprick of Abo is the feventh in the Kingdom as to precedence, and confifts of eighteen Provoftfbips. Finnland, properly fo called, is divided into Abo-Lehn and Biorne- borgs-Lehn. Abo-Lehn, which comprehends the South part of Finnland, is fubdivided into South and North-Finnlard. South-Finnland confifts of three Diftricts, namely, i. Pykie-Dißricl, in which are the following places of note. Abo, in Latin Abca, lies at the point of the angle formed by the gulfs of Bothnia and Finnland, and on the river Aurojocki which runs through this city. It is the moft confiderable town in the whole country, and dates its origin from the year 1 1 55. It is furrounded on all fides with hills; and is a ftaple-town, with a very commodious harbour. Abo was erected into a Bifhop's See about the year 1226. King Gußavus Adolphus founded a Gym- jiajium or Seminary here in 1628, which Queen Chrißina converted into an Academy in the year 1 640 : here is alio a Cathedral fchool. The cathedral, which was built in the year 1300, is a handfome ftrudture. A Royal High Court of Judicature, which is the only one in Finnland, is held at Abo ; where the Governor of the province alio refides. The chief magiftrates of this city are two Burgo-mafters. It carries on a brifk trade in linen, corn, provifions, planks, &c. The Rujians, who were in poffefllon of this town from 17 13 to 1720, committed great outrages in it. It has alfo frequently fuftained great damages by fire. In the year 1743, a peace was concluded here between Sweden and Rujia. Abo is the eighth voting town in the Diet. Abo-Slot, or Abc-caft\e, is one of the moft ancient fortifications in Finn- land. It ftands on a peninfula at the mouth of the river Aura. In the fixteenth century, King Erick XIV. was confined as a prifoner in this caftle. It has been feveral times deftroyed by the enemy and confumed by fire fince k was firft ereäed. Cuppis, a fine medicinal fpring, lies at a fmall diftance from the city of Abo. Raufala is a pleafant ifland, on which ftands a royal manfion-houfe. Rone, a royal demefne, lies in the parifh of Sagu. 2. Masko-DißriB, which contains the following remarkable places. Nadendahl, in Latin Vallis Gratia, is a fmall town at the diftance of a Swedijh mile and a half from Abo. The Nadendahl Convent which gave occafion to the building of this town, was fequeftered at the Reformation. However, nuns continued there till the year 1595, and fet up a manufactory of knit-ftockings, which continues to flouriih to this day ; fo that feveral hun- dred pairs of thread-ftockings are fold at a very low rate, and lent from hence to Stockholm and other places. This town has the ninety-firft vote in the I ):et. Not far from Nadendahl is a fine medicinal fpring. Noiifn Finnland.] SWEDEN. 3 6 5 Noußs, a parifh-church, lies about three miles from Abo. In this church is to be feen the tomb of Bifhop Henry, who firft preached the Gofpcl in Finnland, and fuffered martyrdom in the year n 57. 3. Halliko-DißriB, in which lies Kimito, an ifland which constitutes a parifh, about fix Swedijh miles from 'Abo. On this ifland are feveral noblemens feats, an iron-mill, and quarries of good {tone. North- Finn/and contains two Diftridts : Thefe are, 1 . Wirmo-F>ißriöl, in which are the following places of note. Saris, an ancient royal demefne. Pyha, a royal farm or manor. Monois and Nitu, two royal demefnes with manfion-houfes. Fagcrhobn, a toll or cuftom-houfe, where all fhips pafling to or from Abo are fearched. 2. Wemo-DißriSf, in which lies Ny/iadt, in Latin Neojladiwn, a fea-port town, built in the year 1616, and pleafantly fituated. It has a commodious harbour and a confiderable trade in all kinds of wooden-veffels. In the year 172 1, a treaty of peace was concluded in this town between Swede?! and Rußia. Ny/iadt is the feventy-feventh town that votes in the Diet. Biorneborg-Lehn includes the North part of Finnland and is Subdivided into Upper and Lower-Satagimda . 1. Upper Satagunda coniifts of a Diffridt of the fame name; in which are the following towns. Biorneborg, in Latin Bioerneburgum, or Artopolis, is a fea-port town, fituated on a narrow fandy tract of land on the bank of the river Kumo, which divides itfelf into feveral branches juft below this town, and forms a great many fmall iflands within the diftance of half a Swedijh mile. Biorneborg at firft flood in Kumo parilh ; but was afterwards rebuilt at Ulfsby or Wan- hakila-, and laftly in the year 1558, the inhabitants were removed, and the town was built on the fpot where it now ftands. Great quantities of wooden- ware and fifh, particularly falmon and large whitings are exported from hence to Stockholm and other places. The key or lading-place belonging to this town is at Sandud, about a Swedijh mile from the town. In the year 1 602, a Diet was held at Biorneborg, which has the fixty-fourth voice in the affembly of the States. Near this town lies a royal manor. Raamo or Ratnea, in Latin Rauma, is a very ancient fea-port with a good harbour, which carries on a trade equal to that of Nyßadt. It is the lixiy- fifth town that votes in the Diet. - 2. Lower Satagunda comprehends the Diftridts of Oefredcl and Nedredd, which include feveral parifhes. II. The 3 66 SWEDE N. [Aland. II. The / S L A N D of ALAND, In Latin Alandia. THIS ifland lies between Upland and Finnland, but rather nearer to the latter. Between Aland and Finnland are feveral fmall iflands, fhelves, and rocks, which render that part of the fea very dangerous to mariners. Aland is about fix Swedifi) miles in length, and almoft as many in breadth. The foil is fo fertile, that the inhabitants feldom experience any fcarcity of corn. It alfo produces rich paftures for grazing. The woods, which are fufficient for the ufe of the inhabitants, belong to the King, and are every where inclofed. There are alfo good lime-ftone quarries in dif- ferent parts of the ifland. Lynxes, foxes, and hares abound here ; but bears are not very common. The inhabitants fpeak the Swedifi dialed, and chiefly fubfift by agricul- ture, grazing, fifhing, hunting, catching of fea-fowl, and working in the woods j fome of them are alfo good mariners. They traffick in butter, wooden-ware, coals, and lime. Aland is faid to have been formerly governed by its own Kings ; at leaft, it did not belong to Finnland in ancient times. After this ifland became a province of the Swedifi dominions, it had its Statthalter or Governor for fome centuries: But fince the year 1634, when it was included in the Govern- ment of Abo and Bionieborg, it was modelled into a Diftricl-Jurifdiclion and a Vogtey, including eight pariihes or Paßorates, with the chapels apper- taining to them. The clergy of this ifland are under the jurifdiction of the bifhop of Abo. The remarkable places here, are Ca/lelbolm, Grelfby and Haga three royal demefnes, in the firft of which a poil-houfe is eredled. Hamno, a fmall ifland, lying about three Swedifi miles South-eaft of Aland, where in the times of popery a convent flood. Eckero, an ifland on the weft fide of Aland, on which ftands a poft- ofhce. III. EAST-BOTHNIA, In Latin Ofiro-Bothnia. '"T^HIS province lies farther North on the fea-coaft, and derives its name -*- from its iituation, which is on the eafl-iide of the gulf of Bothnia. The length of this country computed according to the roads, is near ninety Swedfi miles, and the breadth about forty. Others compute the length of it E. Bothnia.] SWEDEN. 367 t at fixty-fix Swedi/h miles, and the breadth at twelve. Nature has feparated t from the adjacent countries by a chain of hills, which runs all along the eaft fide of it. From thefe mountains iffue feveral rivers ; ibme of which empty themfelves into the White-Jea, and others into the gulphs of Bothnia and Finnland. The country, efpecially on the fea-coaft towards the fouth, and in fomc other places, is for the moft part level, but full of moraffes. The induRry of the inhabitants in agriculture is attended with good fuccefsj fo that they iupply other places with corn : but their hopes of a good crop are fometimes fruihated byafudden and unexpected froft. The inhabitants alfo frequently low their corn in Sivcdifi-Iand, as it is called : However, feveral large tracts of land in this country lie wafte. Eafi-Bothnia abounds in woods, and with lakes and rivers which yield plenty of nlh. In fome of the rivers are found pearls of an extraordinary fize. There are alfo fome forges in this country. Near the fea-coaft lie feveral large Schceren or rocky ifiands, and the inhabitants of thofe parts fpeak the Sivedijh language ; but thofe of the in- land parts ufe the Finnean tongue. The commodities which are exported from hence are beams, planks, tar, train-oil, cattle, fifh, and other provinons. The inhabitants of this province fubfift chiefly by agriculture, grazing, burning lime and tiles, and making tar. Of the laft they extract to the amount of 50,000 barrels, from 3,200,000 pine-trees. They alfo employ themfelves in hunting and fifhing, fhip-building, and making wooden ware. The parifhes which are moft noted for fhip-building are Carleby and Kronoby. All the parifhes in this province amount to no more than nineteen in- habited by Finns, and nine by Swedes. The number of the inhabitants in the whole is computed at 80,000. This country maintains an entire re- giment of foot as its quota ; but fome parifhes, in lieu of foldiers, furnifh lhip-wrights to work in the dock-yard at Carlfcron. The Clergy of this province are under thejurifdiction of the Bifhop of Abo. Eqfl -Bothnia is divided into three Parts or Lehns, which are all under one Governor. Thefe are as follow. 1. Cajana-Lehn, which lies in the north part of the province. In this Lehn are Cajana or Cajaneborg, in Latin Cajania or Cajaneburgum, a fmall town, granted as a Barony, together with feveral other parifhes, to Peter Brahe, great Conftable of the Kingdom, in 1650, under the title of the fief of Cajana. The ruinous caftle, which alone is properly called Cajaneburg, was built in the year 1607, and lies near the town: It furrendered by capitula- tion, and was demolifhed, in the year 17 16. It is almoft fur rounded by the river Pyha, which forms a dreadful cataract in this neighbourhood. Cajana is the hundred and fecond town that votes in the Diet. Pal da ma, ' 68 SWEDEN. [E.Bothnia. Pa/Jama, the parifh in which the town of Cajana lies, is the largeft in the whole kingdom ; but fo thinly inhabited, that fome farm-houfes are feven Swedijh miles diflant from any other dwelling. Hvfis-Schbfi, in the parifh of Paldama, was formerly a caftle of a flu- pendous height. It was entirely hewn out of a hard rock, and had two' gates and a very wide flair-cafe ; but this ftrudlure is totally decayed. 2. Uleaborg-Lehn, which is divided into the North and South Parts: In the North Part of this Lehn are the following towns. Vlea or Ulaborg, in Latin Uloa or Ulaburgum, a fea-port town fituated on a peniniula, at the mouth of the river called Ulea-Elf. It was built in the year 1610, and is the largeft town in all Eafl-Bothnia. It has very ftraight and long ftreets, a good fchool, a commodious harbour, and a fine falmon-fifhery. In the year 17 14, this town was demolished by the Rußans. It is the fortieth town that votes in the Diet. The caftle, which fiands near it on a fmall ifland, and is properly called Ulaborg, was built and for- tified in the year 1590 ; but now lies in a ruinous condition. Braheßady in Latin Braheßaduim, a town commodioufly fituated on the fea-fide. It derives its name from Count Pehr Brahe, the Great Conftable of the kingdom, who built it for mechanics, in the year 1652, and procured it the privileges of a town. It has the ninety-ninth vote in the Diet. Here is a commodious harbour. In the South Part are the following remarkable places. The parifh of Laktea, noted for falt-works. Gamla-Caricby, in Latin Carolina antiqua, was built in the reign of Guf- tavus AdolphitSy in a fertile and pleafant plain, and obtained its privileges in 1620. It has a commodious harbour, and the inhabitants carry on a considerable trade in tar, and make great advantages of fhip-building. In the Diet this town is the feventy-fecond in order. The country about Gamla-Carleby is noted for a particular kind of fait, which the peafants boil from the fea-water in fpring and autumn. At firft it is of a dirty gray colour, but upon pouring fome four milk into the clarifying veffel, it becomes as white as inow. The particulars of this procefs may be feen in the Transactions of the SwedHjh Academy of Sciences, Vol. IV. p. 310. 3. Rorsholms-Lehn, which is divided into the North and South Parts. In the North Part of this Lehn are the following towns, Ny-Carleby, in Latin Nco-Carciina, a fea-port fituated on the river Lappojock, which empties itfelf into the fea about a Swedt/h mile from this town, where there is alfo a commodious harbour. It was firft built by King Gußavus sldolphus, and endowed with feveral privileges in 1620. In the order of the Diet Ny-Carleby is the feven ty-firfr. town; and carries on an advantageous trade. "lacobßadty in Latin 'jacobjtadiiun, is a fea-port with a commodious harbour. The north part of this town fiands on the continent, and the fouth Tawaftland.] SWEDEN. 369 fbuth part on the ifland of Bockholm. It was built in the year 1653, by the Countefs Ebba Brahe, who gave it the name of her deceafed hufband Jacob de la Gardie, Captain-General of the Sivsdiß forces. This town ob- tained its privileges in 1660 ; and is the ninety-fourth voting town in the Diet. It was entirely deftroyed in the late wars ; but has been fince pretty well rebuilt. The South Part contains the following places of note. Wafa, in Latin Vafa, a privileged fea-port, was built by Charles IX. in the year 161 1, and by that Monarch named from the royal line oiWafa^ or Vafa. This town has a good fchool, and trafficks in all kinds of fifh. The entrance into the harbour is fomething dangerous. This is the fiftieth town that votes in the Diet. Rorßolm, a royal demefne, lies near Wafa. Here the Governor of Eaß- Bothnia now refides ; and a ftrong caftle formerly ftood in this place. Chrißineßadt, in Latin Chrißina/ladium, is a fea-port town built in 1 649, by Count Pehr Brahe, on the peninlula of Koppo, and called after the name of his firft wife. It is the ninetieth town in the order of voting in the Diet. IV. TAWASTLA^ND, In Latin Tavaßia. ' I" 1 HIS province lies in the middle of Finnland, and is thirty Sivedißj ■*■ miles in length, and twenty in breadth. The country is very fertile, and confifts of fine plains, watered by a great number of rivers and lakes which abound with fifh. It is diverfified with arable and meadow lands ; fo that with refpecT: to thefe natural advantages, it may not only be looked upon as the beftpart of Finnland, but is fcarce furpaffed in thofe particulars by any province in Sweden. It is likewife ftored with cattle, fifh, and all forts of game. But notwithstanding this country is fo fertile, it is far from being well cultivated ; and confequently the peafants are generally very poor. Sometimes, indeed, the corn is much damaged by keen and unexpected frofty nights. The northern part of Tawaß/and is more mountainous and woody than the fouthern. In the moraffes and uncultivated fandy wilds a ferruginous earth is dug up, from which the Eifenfand-ertz, or iron fandy-ore, as it is called, is prepared. Among all the lakes in this country the Pejende or Pajana-hke is the mod extenfive, being twenty Swediftj miles in length. The inhabitants fubfift by agriculture, grazing, and breeding of cattle, and fome of them are employed in the fisheries. They alio traffick in corn, peafe, beans, flax, hemp, dried fifh, cattle, leather, tallow, butter, lime, the Vol. I. B b b bark 370 SWEDE N. [Nyland. bark of trees, &c. In ecclefiaftical matters, this province is partly fubject to the Bifhop of Abo, but moft of it is included in the diocefe of Borgo. Tawastland is divided into the South and North Part. The South Part confifts of two Diftricts, in which are the following remarkable places. Taivqftehus, or Kroneborg, in Latin Croneburgum. is a fmall town, built in the year 1650, on a pleafant fpot by Count Pehr Brahe, and endowed with confiderable privileges. In 1713 this town was taken by the Ruffians; and in the laft war between them and the Swedes it was laid in afhes. The caftle, which, exclufive of the town, is properly called c Tawaßehus, or Tawafleborg, is well fortified, and ferves for an arfenal and royal maga- zine. A view of Tawaflehus may be feen in Dahlberg's Suecia. It has the* hundredth vote in the Diet. Sairiala, a royal demefne, lies in the parifh of Haubo in this neigh- bourhood. The North Part alfo contains tv/o Diftridts, in which are the follow- ing places of note. Wafunda and Muflela, two royal manfion-houfes. c Tamela > a pariih or village in which copper and irorr-mines have beert d'ueovered. "Jamfio, another r)ari/h or village with a market-place,, where a con- fiderable trade in corn is carried on. V. N T L A N A In Latin Nylandia.. THIS province lies-^irra bay of the Finnland gulf, and was formerly peopled by the Finns ; but is now inhabited by fome of the natives of Sweden properly fo called, and Hatfmgland, by whom it was called Nyland. It is near twenty-three Swediß miles in length, and, except in few places,, only five in breadth. This is a level-, fertile^ pleafant country, and is better peopled and cultivated than the neighbouring provinces, It confifts of good arable land and meadows, excellent paftures, fine woods, rivers and lakes abounding with fifh, and is well flored with game of all forts. Here are alio fome fawing-mills and iron-foundaries, which are fupplied with iron- ore from Sudermannland. The inhabitants fubfift by agriculture, grazing, and fifhingj and they trade in corn, planks, linen, and dried fifh. The See of Borgo, which is the ninth biihoprick in rank, and confifts of '.even Provoftfhips, is in this province. Nyland Nyland.] SWEDEN. S7I Nyland is divided into three Diftridfs, which are comprehended in the Government of Tawaßland, namely, Borgo-Dijirift, Eaß-RoJeborg-Dißric7, and Wejl-Rofeborg-Difritf. 1. Borgo-District contains the following towns, &c. Helfingfors, in Latin Helfmgoforfa, a ftaple-town, and the bed in the province. It ftands on a peniniiila, and has an harbour equal to any in Sweden. It was built by King Gußavus I. but in the late wars was laid in afhes, and has not recovered its former flourifhing ftate fince that calamity. The inhabitants deal in corn, timber, and fifli. The Governor of Nyland and Tawaßland refides in this town. Within thefe few years the forts of U/ricaburg, Gtßavfwertb, Sweaborg and Langorn have been erected in the neighbourhood of Helfingfors. Here is a good fchool ; and an Academy for cadets who are natives of Finnland, is founded at Sweaborg. This is the twenty-fourth town in the order of voting in the Diet. Not far from Helfingfors lies the royal manor of Wick. Borgo, in Latin Borga, a very ancient fca-port, with an indifferent har- bour. This town was almoft entirely demolifhed in the late war ; but is now in a very flourishing condition. It is a Bifhop's See, and has a good Gymnafium or Seminary. The inhabitants trade in all kinds of linen. Borgo has the fixtieth vote in the Diet. Stromjberg, a royal demefne. Degerby or Louifa, a well built ftaple-town, lies in the parifh of Perno, on a creek of the gulf of Finnland, and has a commodious harbour. It was built in 1745, as a frontier town towards the Ruffian territories, according to the limits fettled by the laft treaty of peace ; and was called Degerby from the Nobleman's eftate on which it ftands. But in the year 1752, King Adolphus Frederick gave it the name of Louifa. A poft-office ie eftablifhed in this town. Perno and Sibbo are two parishes and market-towns, or villages. 2. East-Raseborg-District, in which lies Lojo, a parifh and market- town. 3. West-Raseborg-District contains the following places of note. Rafeborg, formerly a confiderable demefne with a ftrong caftle, but at pre» fent inhabited by an officer in the army. Ekenas, in Latin ^uercuum Peninfula, a little fea-port with an indifferent harbour. This town is pleafantly fituated, and probably takes its name from the wood of oaks that lies near it. This is the feventy-eighth town in the order of voting in the Diet. The royal manor of Ekenas is not far from this town. ■Mango, or Hango-Udd, a point of land near Ekenas, has a poft-office and a very convenient harbour well fenced by Nature In 1 7 1 4 an engagement happened off this place betwixt the fleets of Sweden and Rujjüi. B b b 2 VI. S A- 372 SWEDEN. [Sawolax. VI. S A W L A X*, In Latin Savolaxia. r T^ HIS country is thirty-four Swedißj miles in length, and twenty-one- -* in breadth, and produces very little corn or pafture, as it moltly. confifts of woods, lakes, rivers, and moraffes. The greateft part of its rivers empty themfelves into the lake of Saima, which extends from North to South about forty Swedißj miles in length. It is full of mountainous iflands;. and with a roaring noife runs along the large ftxeam of Waxen into the La- doga-\zke. The land is fo unequally divided, and withal fo thinly inhabited, that the grounds belonging to fome farms lie ten, fifteen or twenty Swedißj miles from the houfe. The inhabitants, however, get a tolerable fub- fiftence by lowing buck-wheat, grazing and breeding cattle, hunting, fifh- ing, and making wooden ware.- They alfo trade in tallow, butter, dried fifh, hides, and furrs. Their houfes are, for the moft part, very fmall,. This country abounds in elks and rein-deers. As to its eccleliaftical ftate, it is under the jurifdidtion of the Bifhop of Borgo, and is divided into three. Provoftihips. Sawolax is divided into three Diftridts, exclufive of the town of Nyflott, of which- we (hall give an account in defcribing Rajia, and contains the following places of note. Hanulangpaldo, 'Tawifalmi, Randafahni,, and Sairala, which are royal- manors. St. Michel, a parifh, where there is a poft-houfe. The church is one of the moft ancient flruclures that were built in the times of Popery. Brahelinna, which is alio a royal demefne. VII. KTMMENEGARDS-LEHN. HPH I S country derives its name from the river Kymmene and the royal demefne of Kymmenegard. By Kymmetiegards-Lehn is commonly un- derftood that part of Carelia and Kexholm-Lebn, which, according to the treaty of Nyßadt, belongs to Sweden. Carelen or Carelia, was formerly of great extent ; for it was bounded to the Eaft by the lake of Onega, the river Pinasjoki which runs into the White-Sea, and the river Powents which difcharges itfelf into the fore- mentioned lake ; to die South by the gulf of Finnland, the lake of Ladoga, and the rivers Sweri and Niewa ; the river Kymmene and the Pejende-foke * Thefe are numbered according to the original; but I fuppofe the Author does not in- clude them in Finnland, as it conufts of five provinces only. [See p. 36.] were Kymmenegards-Lehn.] SWEDEN. 373 were its Wertem, and the river Kiemi its Northern limits. This country has often been a bone of contention between Sweden and Rußer, and oc- cafioned frequent difputes between thofe two powers. But, by the treaty of Nyfiadt, Sweden was obliged to cede the-greateft part of it to Rußa ; and all that now belongs to the former is the moft wertem part of Carelia, con- futing of a fmall number of Diftricts. Kexholm-Lehn lies to the north-eaftof the Swediflj Carelia, and extends as far as the lake of Ladoga. It derives its name from the old caftle of Kexholm. By the treaty of Nyfiadt, the caftle of Kexholm, together with the fouthern and beft part of this Lehn or fief, were given up to Rußa ; and this cefiion was confirmed in 1743 by the treaty of Abo. Kymmenegards-Lehn is naturally a fertile country ; but, for want of inhabi- tants and proper culture, but little arable or meadow land is feen in this Lehn, which has extenfive woods, and feveral rivers and lakes abounding with fifti, and fome good paftures. In this part of Carelia a fort of bread is made of forrel-feed, which is well tafted. The river Kymmene has its fource in the Pejende-hke, and empties itfelf into the gulf of Finn/and through fix mouths or outlets. The large ftream called Woxen iffues from the lake of Saima and runs into that of Ladoga. About a Swedijh mile from the former lake it has a cataract from a very high and fteep precipice. The clergy of this Lehn or fief are fubjecl to the Bifhop of Borgo. This country is divided into four parts or Diftricts, two of which lie towards the South and the other two towards the North. The places of note in this Lehn are Kytnenegard, an ancient and considerable royal demefne. Here the river Kymene iffues out of the Prejende-lake, and Karnas, a royal farm. Note. An account of the following towns will be given in our defcrip- tion of Rußa, viz.. Wilmanfirand. Kexholm. Frederickßamn. Lexa. Wiborg. Taipol. THE THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE. [ 111 ] A N INTRODUCTION TO THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE. §. i. T^HOUGH the maps of the vaft Empire of Ruß'a and all Tarfary, JL which have been publifhed within thefe fixty or feventy years, are more accurate than thofe that were extant before ; yet they differ from each other both in corredlnefs and beauty. The large map of the northern and eaftern parts of Afia and Europe ; which was firft publifhed in 1 687 by the cele- brated M. Nicholas lVitfen,Burgom after of Amßerdam, (who, inordertoilluftrate his maps, publifhed his valuable and very fcarce work, entitled Noord und Oofi Tartarye, or 'A defcription of North and Eaß-Tartary,' fir ft in the year 1692, and afterwards in 1705) notwithftanding the author's great trouble and application is fo faulty that he would willingly have fuppreffed that hiftorico-geographical work. From Wit/bis map Frederick de Witt de- lineated feveral fmaller maps, which were publifhed by Mortier and others. It is to the learned Witjen that the world is alio indebted for the publica- tion of Ysbrant Ides's travels into China *. In that valuable book may be feen a map of Rißia, which Hamann made the ground-work of his map, but with feveral improvements. The maps of Rußa publifhed by Herman Moll, De l'Iße and Stralenberg have alio their ufe. The general map of Rußa by M. Kirillow, privy counfellor to the Czarina, was the beft extant till J . M. Hafez Tabida imperii Rußci & Tartaric univerßz, together with a fhort explication of it, was publifhed in 1739 at the expence of Homanns heirs; which may be looked upon as a perfect model for projecting geogra- phical Tables. The beft maps of the Rußian Empire, yet extant, are thofe in- the Atlas publifhed by the Royal Academy of Sciences at Peterjburg in * Atranflation of this curious work was publifhed in England in 1706, entitled 'Three years « Travels from Mofcow to China, &c. by land, written by Yjbrant Ides, Embaffador from the Czar « of Mufiovy to the Emperor of China'. Thb book is at prefent very fcarce; and was of °reat fervice to the author. V öl. I. C c c the 37 8 INTRODUCTION TO the year 1745 ; but thefe are far from being perfect. They confift of one general, and nineteen particular maps, reprefenting the whole Ruffian Empire and the countries bordering on it, according to the rules of geogra- phy and the lateft difcoveries. The price of this Atlas at Peterßurgfis four Rubels * and eighty Copeiks coloured, and four Rubels plain. §.2. Rußia is by fome called Mofcovy ; but this way of fpeaking is very improper. For to give this Empire the name of Mofcovy from Mo/cow its capital, is as abfurd as if we fhould term it the Peturburgian Empire ; or call France the Parißian monarchy, from Paris the capital of that Kingdom. The etymology of the word Rußia is uncertain ; for it is neither derived, from wm Rofch, mentioned mExekiefc. xxxviii. v. 2, 3, andc. xxxix. v. 1. as fome imagine, nor from an imaginary Prince of the name of Rufs, the brother of Zech and Lech, &c. as others pretend. Nor are the Rußians fo called from Rufs an ancient city; for the latter rather derived its name from the former, by whom it was inhabited. Thofe who deduce the origin of the Ruffians from the ancient Scythe? and Sarmata give no further proof of it than that they poffefs the country formerly inhabited by thofe nations ; which no body will difpute with them. This, however, is certain, that before the ninth century the name of Ruffians was entirely unknown ; not the leaft mention of it being made in the preceding ages. We (hall fliew in the fequel, that the people called Ruß ans emigrated from other parts into the countries they now pofTefs. The name itfelf, according to the account given of it in the Ruffian annals, was firft ufed by the northern Waregers, who croffed the Baltic from Scandinavia, and fettled in this country : For the Slavians or Sclavonians who poffelTed the other part of this country, were by the former called Rußen or Ruffians. The Finns to this day, though they can affign no reafon for it, give the Swedes the name of Rußes, or rather Rojfa-Laine. They alfo call the Ruffians Venne-Laine, and ftile themfelves Suoma-Laine, i. e. people living among fens or morafTes. This name of Rußes the Novogrod Sclavonians feem to have borrowed from the neighbouring Finns ; and they term all foreigners that come into their country from the North, Ruffes. Thus the Sclavonians give the Waregers the name of Ruffians : And when the former became tributaries to the latter, they were alio in- cluded under the name of Ruffians ; as the Gauls when conquered were called Franks, and the ancient Britons changed their name into that of Angles or Englijhmen. §. 3. The Ruffian Empire extends itfelf much farther than Ruff a pro- pcrlv fo called. Towards the North and the Eaft it is bounded only by the 'main Ocean ; but towards the Weft and South the limits of this vaft Empire are fettled by treaties concluded with feveral Powers ; namely, with Sweden by the treaty of Nyfladt in the year 1721, and that of Abo in j 743; with the Poles by certain conventions agreed on in 1667, l ^7 2 > » A Rubel or Ruble is one hundred Copeiks, and is equal to 4 s, 2 d. fterling. and RUSSIA. and 1717, but thefe were not ratified as to every article. With the Twvb the limits were fettled by the treaty of Carlowitz, concluded in the yean 70 i; but fome alterations were fubfequently made" at the treaty of the Pruth, and rati- fied in the year 17 14. Farther changes alfo took place with regard to the limits between Ruf/ia and Turky at the treaty of Belgrade in the year 1739. Purfuant to the laft treaty of peace concluded with Perfia in 1732, the river Kur, which runs into the Cafpian-Sea, is made the boundary between the Ruffian and Perfian dominions. But the Rufiiaus, having foon after relinquifheo 1 the provinces which they had taken from the Perfians, the river Terk is looked upon as the prefent limits. The other wandering tribes who live farther fouth, viz. t\\t Car aealpacki ans, Kcjfatfhia-Hor da ..thtCal mucks andBaf/jkirians, are confined by lines thrown up on the frontiers. The laft treaty of peace and friendlhip with China and the Mungalians was concluded, in the year 1727, on the banks of the river Bura ; and in 1728, the feveral ratifica- tions of it were exchanged at the river Kiakta. By virtue of that treaty barriers have been fet up on the fouth fide of the mountain of Sayan, and farther towards the Eaft as far as the river Argun. By cafting an eye on thefe limits in the mip we may conclude, that the Ruffian Empire, for extent of territories, may difpute the preeminence with any power on the globe ; or rather that there is not a monarch in the whole world pofleffed of fuch extenlive dominions as the Emprefs of Raffia. From Weft to Eaft it extends from the 40th degree of Longitude to the 204th degree in length; and from North to South it is 15, 20, and in fome places 25 degrees in breadth : fo that it is above 1200 geographical or German miles* in length, and from 2 to 400 miles in breadth. §. 4. As this Empire confifts of a great number of provinces, many of which are very extenfive, the foil and temperature of the air muft vary confiderably in different parts of it; and confequently one province may fupply what is wanting in an other. In thole parts which lie beyond the 60th degree of Latitude there are but icw places where corn will grow to matuity ; and in the northern parts of the Empire no garden friuts are produced, except in the country about Archangel ; where horned cattle are alfo bred, and a great many bullies and fhrubs grow fpontaneoully, which yield feveral forts of berries. There is alfo plenty of wild beafts and fowls, and feveral forts of fifh in the neigh- bourhood of that city. In thofe provinces which lie in the middle of the Empire the air is mild and temperate, and the foil produces all kinds of trees and garden fruits, corn, honey, &c. They are alio well ftocked with horned cattle ; the woods abound in game; and, the rivers are navigable, and full of the beft forts of fi(h. * The author does not fpecify what miles he reckons by in the defcription of Ruffia; but where he ufes the general term, I prefume he means German miles. C c c 2 In 379 3&o INTRODUCTION TO In the fouthern provinces the climate is hot : and though many barren waftes are to be met with in fome parts of them ; yet in other places they are covered with verdure and flowers. Tobacco, wine, and {ilk might be produced in them, as the two firft are at Aflracan and the Ukraine ; and they are well watered with rivers which afford plenty of fifh : nor are they dtftkute of game in proportion to the extent and number of the woods. Provifions are very cheap in Ruffia-, efpecially flefh-meat of all kinds. The fifh peculiar to this country are the Beluga, Sterled, Offefrina, Citrine, &c. and the two laft are of a delicate flavour. The only difference between the Sturgeon, the Sterled, and the Ko/leri is, that the Sterled is fomething fmaller than the Kofteri, and the Ko/leri has rougher fcales than the Sturgeon or the Sterled. Medicinal and faline fprings are not uncommon in Ruffia. Fine filver, which alfo yields fome gold, is dug out of the mines in this country, and likewife exceeding fine copper, iron, and many other minerals ; as the famous Marienglafs, called by fome Mufcovy glafs, or ifing-glafs, &c. with feveral precious ftones. Of thefe valuable productions found in the Ruffian Empire more will be faid in §. 1 1, and in the defcription of Siberia. In the middle and northern parts of the Empire the cold is very fevere, and the days extremely fliort in winter : But the fummers are warm and delightful ; and even in the fhorteft nights the twilight is very luminous. At the winter folftice, when the day is at the fhorteft, the fun rifes and fets on the horizon of the principal cities in the Ruffian Empire according to the following Table. Sun rifes Hours Min. Sun fets Hours Min. At Aßracan 7 4 8 4 12 At Kioto 8 7 3 53 At Mofcoia 8 37 3 23 At Riga 8 47 3 13 At Tobolß 8 56 3 4 At Peterfburg 9 r 5 2 45 At Archangel IO 24 1 36 At the fummer folftice when the day is at the greateft length this order is reverfed. For example, the fun rifes at Aßracan about twelve minutes after four, and fets about forty-eight after feven, and fo for the reft. The common obfervation that eaftern countries are much colder than the weftern that lie in the fame Latitude, is greatly confirmed in Ruffia. For fince the year 17 18, the river Neva at Petersburg has, in fome years, been covered with ice fo early as the twenty-fourth of Oclober, and in other years when lateft, about the twenty-fecond of March ; but it generally thaws by the twenty-fixth of April old ftile, which it has never been known to exceed. RUSSIA. 381 exceed. When it begins to freeze in Ruffia and Siberia, the flakes of ice float on the rivers till at laft they join together, and form a hard furface. Sometimes, though feldom, a iudden frort congeals the water to the con- fiftency of a jelly ; and then the rivers are loon incrulted with ice *, and their current is flopped. §. 5. A perfon may travel cheap and with great expedition in Ruffia, both in fuinmer and winter ; efpecially in the fledges, during the latter feafon. The draught-horfes are extremely fwift, and the roads very good, particularly in the winter-time, between the principal cities of this country. It is nothing extraordinary to go with poft-horfes from Petojburg to Mofcow, which is about one hundred and ten geographical or German miles -f-, in feventy-two hours ; and a commodious fledge drawn by a pair of poft-horfes for this diflance may be hired for fourteen or fifteen Rubels. Between Riga and Petersburg the hire of a poft-horfe for every Werß is two Copeiks and a half % ; between Novogrod and Petersburg one Copeik; and betwixt Novogrod and Mofcow but half a Copeik. The pofl-roads leading to the chief towns, &c. are very exactly meafured , with the Werßs marked ; and the poft- ftages are fixed at proper diftances. Throughout the whole Empire, and even in Siberia, a pillar inlcribed with the number of the Werßs, &c. is erected at the end of every Werß. According to thefe pillars the diftances between the principal cities are as follows. Werßs. From Petersburg to Riga through Narva, Dorpat, and Wolmar, 545 — To Wyburg j 39 ■ And from Wyburg to die frontier town of Li 'lie- 1 Q Aborjors . — — ) iy 9 ■———To Kronjladt by land — — — — 47 To Mofcow by way of 'Novogrod, Forzk,Twer, and Klin 734 This road for about 1 1 o Werßs runs in a direct line. To Smolenjk through Narva, Gdow, and Pfiow 838 To Archangel fomething more than — 1 3 00 From Moscow to Kafan — — — — y^r And from Kafan to Orenburg — cqS To Toboiß — _ 2384 ■ 'To Aßrachan — — 141 2 ■ -To Archangel ■ — — 1004 To Kiew — — 890 To Afow, or Afof — I2 68 — — To Bielgorod — 604 -To Smolenjk — — — — 350 * There is nothing particular in the account the Author gives here of the rivers freezing; in Rußia, the fame gradual progreffion being obferved in all northern countries. The latter phenomenon was alio feen in England in 1739. t About four hundred and forty Englifli miles. \ About 1 d. f fterling. Englißj 82 INTRODUCTION TO Seven Rußan Werßs are equal to a long German mile, or twenty Werßs arc equal to three geographical miles ; or, to fpeak with greater precifion, 3500 Englijh feet conftitute a new Werfl ; and 1044- of the latter are equal to a degree of the Equator*. §. 6. Not one third of the Ruffian Empire is fufficiently peopled, or pro- perly cultivated. The number of inhabitants who pay the poll-tax and furnifh recruits is computed at 5, 1 00,000 ; and, females included, amounts to about jo,ooo,oco, exclufive of the inhabitants of the conquered provinces. Before the time of Peter I. the Ruffians were, and in fome refpedts not undefervedly, looked upon as mere favages. But that wife and great Prince, by incredible application, and a proper temperature of feverity and mildnefs, brought about fach a happy change in their manners, as in a great meafure fets them on a level with the other civilized nations of Europe. The Ruffians are remarkable for their comelinefs of perfon, ftrength of body, fide- lity, firmnefs, ingenuity, wit, and obedience to the laws of their fuperiors. The iniatiable eagernefs of the common people after fpiritucus and other ftrong liquors, especially in the carnival time, is in a great meafure owing to the rigorous fafts they obferve, and the (lender diet they live upon throughout the year. Their food chiefly confrfts of tumeps, cabbage, peafe, large cucumbers, onions, and coarfe ill-tafted fiih. Their drink is ^uas, which is a kind of fmail-beer ; and even among the gentry brandy always makes a part of every repaft. Among the lower fort, it is generally the men who give themfelves up to thefe exceffes ; though, indeed, it is no uncommon fight at Petersburg to fee a drunken woman daggering along the ftreets. The Ruffian women are extremely fond of paint, and look upon a ruddy complexion as the very eflence of beauty ; fo that in the Ruffian language red and beautiful are fynonymous terms. Even the poorer fort among the women, in order to mend their complexion, will beg money to buy fome red paint. Perlons of diftindtion drefs after the German and French manner -f-, and are very fond of ftate and fplendor. The drefs of the common people in Ruffia is mean ; but they are neat and cleanly in their apparel. Per- fons of both fexes wear a crofs on their breafts, which is put on when they are baptized, and never lay it afide as long as they live. The peafants crofies are of lead ; but thofe wore by the better fort are of gold or filver. The peafants let their beards grow to their full length. The Ruffians feldom fail of bathing twice a week ; for which purpole almoft every houfe-keeper is provided with a bath ; and he that has none of his own goes to the * See the Table of miles in page 25 of this Volume. f The German and French drefles, which the Author couples together, are very different j but moft nations affec~l to imitate the latter in their fantaftic levity, though lbmetimes with a very ill grace. public RUSSIA. 383 public baths. They often fally out naked from the warm bath, run about in the cold, and roll themfclves in the fnow ; and then they plunge again into the bath : This vicifiitude of heat and cold they look upon as beneficial to the constitution by rendering them hardy and robuft. Even the common people among the Rußans falute each other with great civility ; but before a Ruffian bids his guefts welcome to his houfe, they are obliged to make the iign of the crofs ; and at the fame to bow to the pidlure of fome Saint, which is fo placed in every room, as to be feen immediately at coming in. In vifits of" ceremony it is ufual for the men and women to welcome each other with a kifs. Thofe of the loweft clafs proftrate themfelves on the ground before perfons of high rank, in order to fhew their profound refpect. The moft ufual method of building both in the towns and country is to lay one beam or log of wood upon another ; then they faften them at the four corners, and fill up the crevices between the beams with mofs. The houfe is afterwards covered with mingles ; and holes are made in the timber for doors and windows. There is commonly a brick ftove or large oven in every room in the houfe of a peafant, which takes up the fourth part of the area, and is flat at the top and boarded ; on which, and a kind of ihelves round the room, the whole family fleep without beds. Their fur- niture confifts of three benches, an oblong table, and a picture of a Saint or two. Inftead of candles or lamps, the Ruffian peafants ufually burn long fplinters of deal. The apartments look like fo many chimneys ; the fire-hearth, which is in the ftove mentioned above, having no other vent for the fmoke but into the room. It is no lboner dark but the houfes fwarm with infects called Tarakans, which are a fpecies of goat-chaffers. The beft expedient to keep them out, is to burn a light in the room till break of day. The houfes in the villages are contiguous, or built clofe together, in the fame manner as they are in the towns. The peafants are but vaffals to the great, and groan under many oppref- fions j but they are fo far from being dull and ftupid, that they are re- markably acute and witty, and do not want for natural parts. The Ruffian Nobility formerly confifted folely of Knefis or Princes, and Gentlemen. Bojar is not a title of Nobility, but anciently denoted a poft or office, as a privy-councellor, &c. Peter the Great added the titles of Counts and Barons to the former ; and in 1714, ordered that the eftates. of the Nobility fhould not be divided ; and alio inverted the proprietors with full power to leave their eftates to that child or heir whom they fhould think moft worthy of the inheritance : However, this law was repealed in the year 173 1 . The Nobility with regard to unlimited fubjecYion to their Sovereign are on a level with the reft of the people ; neither does their rank entitle them to high pofts in the ftate ; but they are promoted only according to their merit. 5 §"• 7« Tk 384 INTRODUCTION TO §. 7. The Ruffian language, it is true, derives its origin from the Scla- vonian ; but it differs greatly from the latter at prefent, and with regard to religious fubjects, is enriched with a great number of Greek words. The Alphabet confiffs of forty-two letters; and moft of them are Greek characters, as they were written in the ninth century. But as the latter did not exprefs every particular found in the Sclavonian language, recourfe was had to feveral Hebrew letters, and fome arbitrary figns. There are various dialects ufed in the different parts of the Ruffian Empire, namely, the Mofcovite, the Novogrodian, the Ukrainian, and that of Archangel. The Siberian dialect is much the fame with the laft. §.8. The Ruffians profefs the religion of the Greek church, which was firft embraced by the Great Dutchefs O/ga in the year of Chrift 955, and afterwards by her grandfon the Great Duke* Wladimir in 988, whofe example was followed by his lubjecfs. That the Gofpel was firft preached to the Ruffians by St. Andrew is, but an uncertain conjecture. Inffead of entering into a detail of the doctrine of the Ruffian church, I fhall only crive an account of the ceremonies, or external part of their religion. Their private devotion contifts in faffing and prayer; and in the number and ieverity of their Faffs they far exceed the Papiit s. Their ufual weekly Faffs are Wednefdays and Fridays. In Lent they neither eat fiefh, milk, eggs, nor butter ; but confine themfelves to vegetables, bread, and fifh fried in oil. The Butter-week, as it is called, when eating of fiefh is forbidden and butter is allowed, is the week immediately preceding the great Faff of Lent; and the latter is regulated by the moveable feaft of Eafier, and lafts till that feftival. St. Peter's Faff, as it is called, always begins the firft Monday after Whit- funday, and lafts fometimes fix weeks, and fometimes but eight days, as Eafier happens to fall out early or late. The Fail of the bleffed Virgin begins annually on the firft day of Augufi, and continues to the fifteenth of the fame month. St. Philip's Faff is likewife immoveable ; for it begins on the fifteenth of November, and lafts till the twenty-fifth of December. The eighth week before Eafier, which, as I obferved above, is called the Butter-week, may be looked upon as the Ruffian Carnival, and is fpent in all kinds of entertainments and licentioulheis. Among the diverfions exhibited during the carnival, on? of the moft lingular is that of riding in fledges down a fteep declivity of twenty ells in height, which is made with boards, and covered with ice by throwing water to freeze on it. At this time of public diverfions their ilender diet is made up with the liberal ufe of ipirits or brandy ; and on Eafier-day moft of them eat to fuch excels, as to throw themfelves into a fit of ficknefs by overcharging their ftomachs. On that joyful feftival the Ruffians kifs one another in the moft friendly manner, prefenting an egg coloured over, or fometimes curioufly painted, * The Rujfum Sovereigns were formerly (filed Great Dukes, and even fo late as the fix- tcenth century ; as appears by public inftruments &c. with RUSSIA. 3 S 5 with the following falutation, ' Chrift is rife»,' to which the anfwer is 1 He is rifen indeed *.' The Ruffians in their private devotions kneel hefore a piclure of our Saviour, the Virgin Merry, St. Nicholas or fome other faint; which is an indifpenfible piece of furniture in their clofet. To this they bow feveral times, making the lign of the crofs with their thumb, fore-finger, and third finger on the breaft, fore-head, and fhouldcrs ; at the fame time repeating, in a low voice, the Lord's Prayer, and fome other fhort ejaculations, par- ticularly the words Ghofpodi Pomilui, i. e. ' Lord be merciful to me.' They feldom pafs by a church but they utter thefe words, bowing and eroding themfelves, without paying regard to any perfon who may happen to be prefent. They alfo look towards a church when they are at a diftance from it, and practife the fame bowings and crofiings as above. Many, and even fome perfons of diftinction, by way of penance, or from other motives of humiliation, proftrate themfelves on their faces at the entrance of the churches ; and thofe who are confeious of having contracted any impurity, forbear going into the church, but ftand at the door. The church bells are often rung ; and as ringing is accounted a branch of devotion, the towns are provided with a vail number of bells, which make, as it were, a continual chiming. Their Divine Service, which is all performed in the Sclavonian language, confifts of abundance of trifling ceremonies, long maffes, finging, and prayers ; all which are performed by the priefts, the congregation in the mean time faying Ghofpodi Pomilui. A lecture from one of the ancient Fathers is fometimes added. Sermons are delivered but in few churches ; and there they preach but very feldom. ~ There are neither feats nor forms in the Ruffian churches ; but the whole congregation perform their devo- tions Handing. On feftival days the Clergy appear in very rich veftments, not unlike thofe of the Leviticai priefts defcribed in the Old Teftament. But the common people can reap little benefit from the public worfhip ; as the fervice is performed in the Sclavonian Tongue -j-. The Word of God is but little known among them ; for it is not yet tranflated into their language; and even a Sclavonian Bible cofts at leaft between twenty-five and thirty Rubels [a). The Ruffians never fing hymns, nor keep any bymn-books in their houfes ; and none but the chorifters ling pfalms in the churches ; that office * This is agreeable to the cuftom of the primitive Chriffians, whofe falutation, when they met each other on Eafler-day was A».=fi ö X{i;to ? , and the reply was 'atieS*,- ünrt. t The Sclavonian differs much from the modern Ruffian language; fee §. 7. of this Intro- duction. Service is performed in Greek at the Ruffian Ambaflador's chapel in London, where they ufe the liturgy of St. Chrifoßom. {ei) Since I wrote the above, I am informed by Mr. Mutter that a new edition of the Sclavonic Bible was publifhed by the Holy Synod in 1751 from the Mofcow edition of 1663, with annotations, which is fold for five Rubels; but that as yet there is no talk of a Bible in the Ruffian language. He adds that the New Teftament and Pfalter in the Sclavonic language, in quarto, is fold at a moderate price in Ruffia. [The Authors note.] Vol. I. D d d being 3 86 INTRODUCTION TO being looked upon as their peculiar province, for which they are held in fome efteem. As for inftrumental mufic, it is not allowed in the Ruffian churches. No proper meafures have as yet been taken here, for the in- ftruction of young people among the vulgar in the principles of religion. The Ruffian feparatifts are, by way of contempt, termed Rojkolniki or Rof- koUhtfhickett, i. e. fchifmatics; but they call themfelves Starowierzi, or ' an- cient believers.' Their chief peculiarities confift in having their own books, on which they ground their doctrines. From the authority of thefe books they make the ulual iign of the crofs only with the fore and middle ringer, like the clergy of the orthodox Ruffians when they give the benediction ; and confequently they differ in this point from the Ruffians of the national church, who make it with the thumb and the fore and middle fingers. They alfo let their beards grow to their full length, though this is a privi- lege which they procure at an extravagant rate. They totally abftain from ipirituous liquors ; never go into a Ruffian church ; and will neither eat nor drink out of any veffel which has been ufed by an orthodox Ruffian. This feet is not very numerous in Ruff a properly fo called ; but it has fpread over all Siberia, and prevails very much among the inhabitants of "Tomfk and Tara. The inhabitants of the provinces conquered from Sweden profefs Luthe- ranifm ; and the Proteftants of whom there are great numbers among the Ruff ans, as alio the Papifts, enjoy a full liberty of confeience, and the public exercife of their religion >, fo that they have churches and priefts or minif- ters at Peter/burg, Cronfadt, Mofcow, Archangel, and Aflracan : but the Papifts have no longer the privilege of hanging up bells in their churches. The Armenians have their public places of worihip only at Afracan. The "Je fuits and yews have been banifhed from this country ; but it is thought there are a great many ftill remaining, who fecretly adhere to yudaifm. A considerable number of the Ruffian fubjects profefs the Mahometan re- ligion ; and greater numbers are ftill Pagans. In order to promote their converfion, the Synod has inftituted a peculiar fociety for propagating Chriftian knowledge, called Collegium de propaganda fide ; and we are in- formed by the public papers, that many thoufands of them have been con- verted to Chriftianity. But it too plainly appears from M. Gmelen's journey through. Siberia [Vol. I. p. 257, 334, 335, &c] that great conftraint and violence have been ufed to bring them over ; and that the people, moft of whom are baptized againft their will, have but a very imperfect and con- temptible idea of the Chriftian religion. But as this was alio the cafe in the firft converfion of the Saxons and other nations; which yet in time con- tributed to the introduction of greater improvements in knowledge and mo- rality ; we may hope for the like happy confequences from the converfion of the Ruffians. c Befides RUSSIA. 387 Befides the great feftivals ordained by the Ruffian church, there are alio, every year, fome holy-days appointed by the civil power, when all public bufinefs and trades are fufpended with greater ftrictnefs than even during the former. Such are the anniverfary of the Birth, Inauguration, and Coronation of the prefent Emprefs Elizabeth, and of the faint's day whole name fhe bears, and likewife the feftival of the birth and name day of the Great Duke and his confort the Great Dutchefs ; that of St. Alexander Neufki, which is kept on the thirtieth of Anguß ; and the anni- verfary of the battle of Pultawa, which is commemorated on the twenty- feventh day of "June. There are great numbers of convents for the religious of both fexes in the Ruffian Empire. But Peter I. very prudently ordered, that no man Ihould be permittted to enter on a monaftic life before he is thirty years of age ; and that no woman Ihould take the veil under fifty, and then not without the exprels approbation and licence of the Holy Synod. The Abbot or head of an abbey is here called Archimandrite, and the prior of a convent Igumen. An Abbefs or head of a nunnery is entitled Jgumenia, Deacons, Popes * or priefts, and Protopopes -f- are exceeding numerous in Ruffia. Every large village in this country has a church and a prieft to officiate in it ; and in the towns almoft every fireet has its church, &c. It is remarkable that all the old churches in Rujfia have a crefcent, or half moon, under the crofs erected on the tops of the towers, &c. The Ruffian Bifliops and Archbifhops are called Archiicrei. The Metropolitans, who are only two, viz. one at Kiow and the other at Tobolfk, differ from the Bilhops only as to the title. In ancient times the Primate or fupreme Bilhop of the Ruffian church was a fuffragan to the Patriarch of Conjlantinople ; but the Czaar Feodor Iwano- ivitz appointed a Ruffian Patriarch to prefide over the church. As thefe Patriarchs gradually affumed an exorbitant power, which was dangerous even to the Czaars themfelves, Peter I. on the death of the laft Patriarch in 1701, fuppreffed that dignity, and declared himfelf Head of the church of Ruffia; but it is not true that he ever officiated in that character. In the year 1 71 9, the fame Prince inftituted a Council, which has the direction of eccle- fiaftical affairs, and is ftiled The moß Holy Synod: fince the year 1750, the Archbilhop of Mofcow has been preiident of the Synod. Subordinate to this council are : 1 . The Oeconomie, as it is called, which has the ma- nagement of all the ecclefiaftical lands and revenues. 2. The Roskolniki- Pricafe, which has power to execute the regulations made concerning the above-mentioned Separatists, called Rofkolniki ; and levies the money or tax impofed on them for being permitted to let their beards grow. Under the "prefent government, the Holy Synod is held in great veneration. All the ecclefiaftics are permitted to wear their beards and their own lank hair. * They are called Papa's by other authors. f Protopopes are fuch priefts as belong to the cathedrals and principal churches. D d d 2 Their 3 88 INTRODUCTION TO Their drefs is a fort of long cloke ; and on their head they wear a high fliffened black cap from which a piece of the fame fluff hangs down on their backs, or a large flapped hat. Secular priefts when they are out of the church generally wear a blue or brown long coat. The clergy are per- mitted to marry, but it muft be to a virgin ; and on the death of his wife a prieft is not allowed to marry again, nor to hold his benefice : but has only this alternative, either to betake himfelf into a convent, or be degrad- ed ; and if he chooies the latter, he is at full liberty to marry a fecond time. Hence it is obferved that in Ruffia, no wives are better treated than thofe of the ecclefiaftics. In the thirteenth century feveral Popes laboured hard to put the Great Dukes of Ruffia out of conceit with their old Greek religion, by recom- mending to them that of Rome as preferable to it; but without fuccefs. The doctors of the Sorbonne at Paris made the fame attempt of late years : for at the fuppreffion of the Patriarchate by Peter I. they endeavoured to perfuade him to bring about an union of the Ruffian church with that of . Rome -, but they were not able to carrry their point. §. 9. Before the reign of Peter I. the feveral branches of learning were but little known in Ruffia -, but that illuftrious monarch fpared neither ex- pence nor trouble,, to difpel the clouds of ignorance in which his fubjects were involved, and to infpire them with a tafle for Arts and Sciences. That great Prince founded an Academy of Sciences, an Univerfity, and a Gymnafmm or Seminary at Peterjburg, befides other fchools in the different parts of his Empire ; invited feveral perfons of diftinguifhed learning from Germany, France and Holland to fettle at Petersburg; collected a great number of books ; and encouraged his fubjects to travel into thofe coun- tries where Arts and Sciences were known to flourifh. Thefe wife and laudable meafures are ftill continued ; and have cultivated many geniufes among the Ruffians, who have made a confiderable figure in the republic of letters. Since the time of Peter the Great, the Emprefs Elizabeth has alio erected an Univerfity and two Seminaries at Mojcoiv. However, the num- ber of Rußan Literati is as yet but fmall : And as there are but three Univerfities in this vaft Empire, namely, thofe of Petersburg, Kioiv, and Mofcow, learning may be faid as yet to be only in its infancy in Ruffia. Hence it may be eafily conceived why the Arts and Sciences have not made fo great a progrefs in this country as in many other European States and Monarchies. We muft not judge of the flate of learning in the whole Empire from the prefent appearances at Petersburg, any more than from that of the foreign geniufes invited thither from all parts of Europe. The Ruffians are far from wanting talents and a difpofition for learning. The iludies to which they chiefly apply thcmfelves are Hiftory, Genealogies, and the Mathematics ; but they make a great myftery of the defcription and hiftory of their own country. Tha RUSSIA. 389 The members of the Academy of Sciences at Petersburg not only pub- lish collections of their own memoirs ; but compofe a variety of books for inftrudion of youth in the Sciences, befides tranflations of the moft ufeful books publifhed in foreign countries. All mechanic arts and trades are con- tinually improving in Ruffia ; and thofe improvements are not entirely owing to foreigners who refide there; but even the natives are fpurred on by emula- tion to equal, and fometimes exceed their matters. §. 10. Formerly the Ruffians were wholly employed in agriculture, feeding of cattle, hunting, and filhing. What they moilly excelled in was making Tuchte y or Rujjia-\tz.thtr, which had been a fecret of a long Handing among them ; but they were entirely unacquainted with the more ingenious me- chanic trades. Great numbers of excellent artificers having been invited to Petersburg by Peter the Great, the Rufjians ihewed that, with proper in- ftrudions, they did not want a capacity for all kind of handicraft trades ; for they have now flourifhing manufactures of velvet, filk, woollen fluffs, and linen ; alfo copper, brafs, iron, fteel, and tin are wrought; and great guns, fire-arms, wire, cordage and fail-cloth, paper, parchment, glafs, gun-powder, &c. are made in Ruffia. Thefe manufactures, however, are not brought to filch perfection as to be carried on without foreign hands, and additional fupplies of thofe commodities from abroad. What is wrought by Ruffian workmen is fold for one half, or a third part lefs than what is made by foreigners at Petersburg and Mofcow ; but the former does but half or a third part of the fervice of the latter. Ship-building, in particu- lar, is carried to great perfection in Ruffia. As for the Ruffian pealants they are their own artifts, and make every utenfil, &c. that they have occafion for. §. 1 1. Ruffia affords a variety of commodities which are of great ufe to foreigners-; and as the exports of this country greatly exceed its import-, there is a confiderable annual balance of trade in its favour. The Ruffian home commodities are fables, and black furrs, the fkins of blue and white foxes, ermines, hyenas, linxes, fquirrels, bears, panthers,, wolves, martens, wild cats, white hares, &c. Likewife RuJJia-ha.thev, copper, iron, a traniparent foflile called Marienglas or Mufcozy-ghfs, tallow, vax, ' honey, pot-afh, tar, linieed-oil, rolin, pitch, train-oil, caviar, lalt-fifh, caftor, ifing-glafs, hemp, flax, thread, Rufiia-Ymen, fail-cloth, callimanco, matting, Siberian mufk, mamonts teeth and bones, as they are called, foap, feathers, hogs briftles, timber, &c. To thefe . commodities may be added the Chine fe goods as rhubarb and other drugs, iilks, &c. with which Ruffians partly furnifh the other countries of Europe. Furrs are lo far from being cheap at Petersburg, that they may be bought for the fame price at Dantzie, Hamburg, and Leipfic, and fometimes even cheaper ; for, to omit other caufes, incredible quantities are clandeftinely carried out of the country without paying any duty, which occafions the difference in the price. Ä farther account of furrs will be given in the defcription of Siberia, Tlie: 3 9 o INTRODUCTION TO The red and black Incite or Ruf/ia-lcxthcr for colour, fmell, and foftnefs cannot be equalled in any other part of the world ; and the beft fort is drelfed at Iäroßaw, Caßrom, and Pleskow. One may judge of the genuine- nefs of the Ruffia-leathcv not only by the colour, and foftnefs, but alfo its fuming: and fmelline like burnt leather when rubbed hard. The word Iuchte fignifies a pair, two fkins being always put together. The quantity of bar and other unwrought iron annually exported from Ri'ljia amounts, one year with another, to 300,000 Puds *.; and the Ruffian iron is little inferior, if at all, to that of Sweden. No greater quantity of Rhubarb is exported from hence than what is allowed by the Emprefs, who alfo fixes the price of it. Caviar or Caweer is made of the roes of the fifti called Beluga and the fturgeon. The beft is made of the Beluga roes, and is of two forts ; namely, the granulated and prefled Caviar. The former, which is moft valued, is prepared in autumn and winter, but the latter is made in fum- mer ; and both forts are exported to the fouthern parts of Europe. The granulated fort is firft faked, and then put in kegs for exportation. Caviar is moft palatable when frefh, and fpread on bread, with fait, leeks, and pepper ; but as it foon becomes tainted by warmth, it cannot well be ex- ported freih : The Ruffians in their language call it Ikra. In order to give the reader fome idea of the yearly exports of RuJ/ia, I fball fet down the particulars from authentic accounts; according to to which the following commodities are annually exported from Petersburg in the quantities fpecified below. Arßnnes -j-. Callimanco 1,214,000 Linen - ' ■ ■ 4,000,000 Table Ditto — — 600,000 Puds Bees-wax - . . ■ . ■ 22,000 Ifing-glafs ■ • 1500 Flax ■ 65,000 Hemp ■ 1,000,000 Tallow 100,000 Rußa-leather - 200,000 Preffed Caviar. ■ 20,000 Hogs-briftles ■ ■ 6500 400,000 Hare-fkins 70,000 Pieces of Furr, &c. &c. * A Pud is about thirty-fix pounds avoirdupoife, or forty Ruffian pound«. * An Arjbine is equal to 28 75 inches, The RUSSIA. The goods imported into Rußa are filks, chints and cotton, cloth and other woollen fluffs, fine linen, toys, French brandy, wines, herrings and other fifh, fpices, hard ware, &c. In the year 1749 the value of the goods ex- ported from Petersburg amounted to 3,184,322 Rubels-, and that of the imports to 2,942,242 Rubels. Of thefe were exported to England to the value of 2,245,573 Rufch '> an< ^ the value of the commodities imported from, thence amounted to 1,012,209 Rubels. But to enter more particularly into the ftate of commerce in the Rußan Empire; the trade of Rußa is divided into the land and fea commerce, or into foreign and domeftic trade. The land-trade principally confifts of, 1. The trade to China which, at prefent, is carried on by caravans, and partly by private adventurers. The greateft in quantity and moft va- luable commodities which the Ruffians carry to China are furrs ;. and in re- turn for thefe they bring back gold, tea, filks, cotton, &c. 2. The trade with the Calmucks which is entirely in private hands, but of no great importance. To thefe people they carry all kinds of iron and copper utenlils ; and the returns are made in cattle and provifions ; and > fome- times, in gold and filver. 3. The trade to Bughar or Bochara*, which brings in ready money, or, by bartering of goods, curled lamb-fkins, Indian filks, and fometimes gems ; which are brought to the yearly fair at Samarkand. 4. The trade to Perßa by the way of Afiracan and the Cafpian fea, which is confiderable ; and the returns are made in raw filk, and filken fluffs. 5. The traders in the Ukcraine fell all kinds of provifions to the Crim- T'artars ; and alfo trade with the Greek merchants at Confiantinople^ 6. The inhabitants of Kioto trade to Silefia in cattle and Rußa leather ;. and, notwithftanding the fevereft prohibitions, great quantities of goods are fmuggled from the Government of Smolen/k, to Königsberg and Dantzic. As to the naval commerce of Rußa, it owes its origin to the Hanfe- towns, which formerly carried on a confiderable trade with Revel, Novo^rod, and Plejkcw. Afterwards, about the middle of the fixth century, ibme Engli/h traders -j- found the way to Archangel. The Ruffians, at firft, were ftrangers to any courfe of exchange, which was not introduced among them till the year 1670; and money was fo very fcarce in this country, that foreigners were obliged to barter their goods for thole of Rußa, and even to give the Ruffians money in exchange for their commodities.. Moft of the foreign merchants ufed to refide at Mof- coia, and took a journey in fummer time to Archangel, where they had their warehoufes and factors. This practice continued till the year 1721, when, * Bochara is fituated near the river Oxus, and is one of the chief cities of Usbec Tartary. t This was Captain Chancellor who failed into the White Sea and landed at Archangel in 1553 by 39 1 392 INTRODUCTION TO by order of Peter the Great, the feat o{ commerce was transferred from Archangel to Petersburg \ and the foreign traders accordingly were obliged to remove their factories to the latter. At the fame time alio, among other regulations, a Tariff was fettled; but this was aboliihed in 1733, and the old Ruffian Rubels reftored ; and to this day the cuftoms and duties are computed by that coin. The old Rubel, before the prefent century, was no more than an imaginary piece, containing a hundred filver Copeiks of thole times, which, however, were as large and heavy as thofe coined fince. Fifty fuch Copeiks were valued at one Ipecie or Holland Rix- dollar * ; and a hundred of thofe Rubels weighed fourteen pounds of fine filver -f. They ftill compute by Rubels of this value in commercial affairs : but the duty for all merchandifes imported and exported is paid in Alberts or new Holland Rix-doilars, and not in Raff an money. Fourteen fuch Rix-dollars are valued at a pound weight of fine filver, which muft be paid either in coin or bullion. Foreign merchants are not allowed to keep the goods con- figned to them in their own warehoufes ; but are obliged to depofit them in magazines built by the Government for that purpofe ; and pay rent for warehouse room in proportion to the quantity of goods they are pof- fefled of. The merchants and traders at Petersburg confift of natives and foreigners. The former may fell by wholefale or retail ; but the latter by wholefale only, and that to none but the natives : for foreigners are not permitted to fell any thing to one another, nor to have any commercial dealings too-ether in Raffia. Moft of the foreign traders at Petersburg are only factors ; the reft, who trade on their own bottoms, deal moftly in toys and grocery. The factors are intruded with very large capitals, and may, without engaging in any commerce for themfelves, raife handfome fortunes. The native Ruffian traders who bring goods from feveral places to Peterf- bwg, and carry foreign commodities farther into the continent, do not refide at Petersburg, but in feveral parts of Ruffia. In May or June they bring their goods tifither annually by water ; and in the months of September, Oclober, and December, after they have difpofed of their own goods, they return with foreign commodities to their refpective homes. The wealthier!: among thefe traders fave themfelves the fatigue of travelling, by fending their factors to Petersburg. All foreign merchandifes are generally fold at a twelvemonth's credit : But the Rujjian commodities muft be paid for at the delivery of the goods, unlefs the natives find a difficulty in felling their ftock ; and in -this cafe they deal by way of exchange. However, they will not barter goods for goods, but commonly infift on one fourth, one third, or one half of the value of the whole in fpecie. Of late foreign * A Holland Rix-dollar is equal to 4*. $ 6 99 Four regiments of huflars containing — — 4435 II. The army belonging to the Garrifons and Governments, which confifts of 1. Infantry, namely, Twenty regiments which are cantoned towards the Baltic! , amounting in all to — — — — J 26,520 Twenty-eight regiments in the heart of the Empire makinel in all m jL & _ _ __ _ V __ 8 j 36,736 Land militia on the Sakomsko line — — — ' 2342 Six battalions containing — — — — 4020 The corps of artillery and engineers — ■ — 59?o 2. Cavalry, namely, Twenty regiments of land militia on the Ukraine line") amounting in all to — — — j 22 3 7°° Land militia on the Sakomsko line — — 335 r Seven regiments of dragoons in garrifon making — 7399 Two fquadrons in garrifon amounting to — — 1130 405 Total of the regular troops a- —• 246,494 Secondly, 406 INTRODUCTION TO Secondly, Of Irregular Troops, which confift of Men. Ten Little Rajjia regiments amounting to — — 60,000 Five Slabodian regiments making in all — — 30,000 Don CoJ/acks — — ■ — — — 10,000 Cabnucks — — — — — — 20,000 Total of irregular troops. — — — 120,000 i Thefe, like the regular army, may be augmented at the Emprefs's pleafure. As for the Officers pay, it muft be obferved, 1 . That the officers of the twenty garrifon-regiments in the towns lying on the Baltic have double the pay of other garrifon regiments. 2. That the officers of all marching regiments have three times the pay of the officers of the regiments in the governments or provinces. 3. That the private men in the guards have double the pay of thofe in the marching regiments. Here follows an account of the annual pay of the Generals, officers, and private men in the Rujfian fervice. A General Field-Marfhal is allowed per annum. Rubels. Rations. Rubels. Denßeks or Servant«. 7000 200 valued at 1140 and 16 A General in chief. 3600 80 456 12 A Lieutenant-General. 2160 50 285 10 A Major-General. 1800 40 228 8 A Brigadier. 840 20 171 7 In the marching regiments a Colonel is allowed yearly. Rubels. Ruheis. Copeiks. Servants. 600 96 and 90 for Rations. 6 A Lieutenant Colonel. 360 62 70 4 A Major. 300 62 70 3 R U S S I A. A Captain. Rubels. Rubels. Copeiks. Servants, 1 80 28 and A Lieutenant. 50 for Rations. 2 120 22 80 1 A Second Lieutenant , 84 J 7 An Enfign. 10 1 84 J 7 10 1 A Quarter-matter of a reg iment. 84 22 An Adjutant. 80 1 120 22 80 1 407 From this table, and the paragraph immediately preceding it, we may find out the pay of the officers belonging to the regiments in the garrifons and Governments. A private man is allowed yearly ten Rubels and ninety-eight Copeiks, befides three barrels of meal, a certain quantity of groats or coarfe oatmeal, twenty-four pounds of fait, and fiefh to the value of feventy-two Copeiks j all thefe articles are computed at five Rubels feventy-four Copeiks. But fix Rubels thirty-five Copeiks are deducted from the pay of every private man for clothing, medicines, fiefh, cartridges, and flints for their firelocks. His whole clothing from head to foot cofts near twelve Rubels. The Dentjkeks or fervants are taken out of the recruits to attend the officers: And for the fupport of every one of thefe eleven Rix-dollars and two Copeiks and a half are paid annually out of the military cheft ; but the mafters are obliged to clothe them. The corps of Cadets fhall be fpoken of in my account of Reter jburg. §.22. The Rußans owe their fkill in the art of fhip-building, and con- fequently their naval power, entirely to Reter the Great. For they had only barks and other fmall craft, for paffing up and down the Volga and the Don, before that Monarch's time. Rujia naturally abounds in all kinds of naval ftores ; and at Petersburg and Archangel are large dock-yards, in each of which three Engliß fhip-carpenters fuperintend the building of fliips. It appears from a lift published by M. Haven, that in the year 1746 the Ruffian navy confuted of twenty-four fliips of the line, feven frigates, three bomb-ketches, and two Praams or flat-boats - } befides the galley-fleet at 2 Petersburg 4 o8 INTRODUCTION TO Petersburg confuting of 102 galleys. The complement of the whole fleet amounted to 10,570 men ; and of thefe 7701 were feamen. The fleet fince that time continues pretty nearly in the fame ftate ; for if fome fhips are built every year, others become unfit for fervice. The men of war are laid up at Revel and Cronfladt, and the galleys at Petersburg. The Rußans cannot as yet be faid to have a complete good harbour on the Baltic ; the water at Cronßadt being too frefb, which does confiderable damage to the fhips that lie there. There is a new Academy for 300 Sea-Cadets erected at Petersburg. The High-Admiral has the pay and rank of General Field-Marfhal; an Admiral, of a General in chief; A Vice-Admiral, of a Lieutenant-General; and a Rear-Admiral, of a Major-General. A Captain of a man of war has the fame pay, and ranks with a Colonel, a Lieutenant-Colonel, and a Major of a marching regiment ; and a Sea-Lieutenant, with a Captain. §. 23. The Ruffian Empire lies partly in Europe and partly in Afia. The "European part contains Great-, Little, and White Rußa ; to which may be added the conquered provinces which formerly belonged to Sweden. White Rußa in this Empire muft not be confounded with the country of the fame name in Lithuania. As for Red RuJJia, it belongs to Poland. In order to underftand the origin of thefe names it muft be obferved, that it is a cuftom among the Eaßern people, to diftinguifh countries by the epithets white and black ; and that by the former they call the moft extenfive and fertile, and by the latter the fmaller and lefs fruitful countries or territories. There are indeed different opinions concerning the ufe and application of thefe names ; but to enter into a minute difquifition on this head, would lead me too far from my fubject. The AJiatic provinces of the Ruffian Empire make no fmall part of Great Tartary ; and have been conquered partly in ancient, and partly in more modern times. The Ruffian Empire is divided into Governments ; and every Govern- ment conlifts of certain Provinces or Circles. Thefe Governments have been frequently altered ; but, according to the prefent divifion, they are as follow. The Government of Riga, Reval, Narwa, Petersburg, Wiburg, Great Ncvogrod, Archangel-gorod, Mofcow, JSiJhieinow-gorod, Smolensk, Kiew, Bielogorod, Woronctz and AJow, AJhacan, Orenburg, Cafan, and, laftly, that of Siberia. Note. In order to facilitate the pronunciation of the Ruffian names of places mentioned in the geographical part, I havefet them down as they are fpoken *j and for the farther fatis faction of the reader, I fhall here * Where the German pronunciation differs from the E>iglißi, I have accommodated the Rußa» words to the latter, particulai 1 y in the feb which is expreffed by Jh, and j conlonant by i or y, as it is pronounced fo by the Germans: the method or writing the names of places after the German manner with//;», cb, j, &C. would ferve to embarafs the Englijb reader. add R U S S 1 A. add the following explanation of ilich Ruffian words as occur in this account, in alphabetical order. Bieloi, Bielaia, BieJoi'e, white. Gor a, a mountain. Gorod, a city or town. Gorodißfße, a place where a town formerly flood. Guba, when fpeaking of water, fignifies a bay or gulf. Kamen, a rock. Kamennci Gorod, a walled town. Krajhoi, Krafnaia, Krafnoie, red, or beautiful, thefe being fynonymous terms in the Ruffian language. Krcpoß, a fort, or fortified town. Liman, a marfliy lake, with a river ifluing from it, or difcharging itfelf into it. Ma/oi, Malaia, Mahie, little. Monaßir, a convent. More, the fea. Nijkoi, Ni/kaia, Nißoie, low. Nos, a cape or promontory. Nowoi, Nowata, Nowoie, new. Gfero, a lake. O/irog, a place inclofed with palifadoes, frequent in Siberia. Inftead of a wall, they are furrounded with long piles driven perpendicularly into the ground, or wooden bread-works, like ramparts, made of logs and beams of timber laid upon each other. Thefe Oßrogs have only the principal buildings inclofed within them, as the JVaiwode or Governor's houfe, the public offices, a magazine of provifions, an armory, a furr-warehoufe, a church, &c. But a town or village ftands near moft of the Oßrogs. Oßrow, an ifland. Pogoß, properly a church with the buildings belonging to it j in a more exteniive (enk it denotes the whole territory of a parilh belonging to a church. The villages likewife dependent on the church have alfo the fame names. Pricas, a chancery or public office. Porogi, water-falls or cataracts. Provificialnoi Gorod, or a Provincial city, is the rehdence of a Governor, Deputy Governor, or of zWoiwode; and has other towns under its jurif- diftion. Sawod, a fmelting houfe, or place where ores and metals, as iron, copper, &c. are melted down and wrought. Saßaiva, a toll-place, or cuftom-houfe. V o l. I. G g g Sek, 409 4io INTRODUCTION, Sfr. Se/o, a village confiSting of one church, and the houfes which belong to it. Some Se/o's belong to private perfons or convents. Slobodes, are different from the preceding. The Slobody Uiezdnyia, or Slobode circles, have handfome buildings and are larger than many fmall towns, but not fortified. The inhabitants of them arc traders, and"have a particular magistrate and a toll-place or cuftom-houfe. Iamskiie-Slobody, are places where carriers generally live. The Slobodes in Siberia are inhabited by peafants ; and thefe may be accounted part ot a Circle, as they include Several parishes and villages ; and in fome of them there are OJlrogs. Sloboda in the province of 'Tobolsk Signifies a town Surrounded with wooden walls ; and there are few other fortifications in Siberia, except thofe of the city of 'Tobolsk. Indeed, the only enemies the Siberians have to deal with are the Ba/bkirians, the Calmucks, and the Kafatjha-Horda ; and their wars may be looked upon as robberies rather than military expeditions, for they attack the villages on horfeback for the conveniency of carrying away the plunder im- mediately ; fo that the main point is to prevent the enemies from breaking in. They have but little to fear from their weapons, which, for the molt part, are only bows and arrows. Shifiiwie, irregular foot Soldiers. Sol, fait. Stan, a part of a Circle containing fifty churches, with the chapels depen- dent on them. Staroi, Staraia, Staroie, old. Step, a waSte or wildernefs ; likewife a level barren country. Swiatoi, Siviataia, Swiatoie, holy. Tßoernoi, Tjhernaia, Tjhernoie, black. Uiezd, a Circle or diftridt, lefs than a province, and more extenfive than a Stan, a Wolofl, or Pogojl. Ofl-ie, the mouth of a river. Welekoi, Welekaia, Welikoic, great. Wercnei, Wercniaia, Wercnoie, Superior or above. Werfla, a RaJJian meafure of distance, of which 104I, or according to fome, 105 are equal to a degree of the Equator. Tarn, a Poft-Stage, where the horfes are changed. Yamskaia, a village or fmall town inhabited by fledge-drivers, carriers, 6cc. Tar, a Steep high coaft. Turte, hutts. Zemlia, a country, or the earth. THE [4ii ] T H E EUROPEAN PART OF THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE. §. i. ' | ^HE boundaries of this part of the Ruffian Empire towards the X E^ft are indeed the fame with the limits between Europe and Afia ; but thefe are not eafily afcertained. All that can be faid with any certainty is, that the river Don has, from time immemorial, been looked upon as the fouthern boundary ; that the kingdom of Afiracan and Kafan are reckoned to be in Afia ; and that the Wercoturian mountains have commonly paffed for the limits between Rußa and Siberia. §.2. The feas bordering on Rußa have been defcribed above *. The principal rivers in the European part of the Ruffian Empire are as follow. I. The Wolga, in Latin Volga. This river was formerly known by the name of Rha ; and is at prefent by the Tartars called Atel, Edel, or Idel y i. e. ' the large river'. It has its fource in the foreft of Wolconjki ; and is one of the largeft rivers in the world ; for it runs a courfe of between four and five hundred geographical or German miles, before it falls into the Cajpiau fea. Its borders are generally fertile ; and though they are not fufficiently cultivated, on account of the frequent incurfions of the Tartars-, yet the foil naturally produces all kinds of eiculent herbs ; and particularly aiparagus of a very extraordinary fize and goodnefs. Moft of the oaks in Rujfia grow in the countries that are watered by this river. At Twer, a town but little more than twenty geographical miles from its fource, the Wolga is na- vigable for large fhips. Towards the end of the fpring, this river is fo fwelled by the melting of the ice and mow as to caufe great inunda- tions ; particularly in the months of May and 'June. The mailers of * See pag. 60, 61, 62. G g g 2 the 412 RUSSIA. the veilels which are bound down the Wolga to Aßracan, carefully obferve this feafon, as at that time they have not only the opportunity of a fare paflage over the (hallows ; but likevvife over feveral flat iflands, which then lie at a confiderable depth under water. Trees are often torn away by the roots from the banks of this river by the violence of the current'; and the anchors of the veflels are frequently fo entangled amongft them, that there is a neceflity of cutting the cable, fo that a great number of anchors are^ fuppofed to lie at the bottom. The Wolga abounds with the fine fifh called Beluga*. It receives feveral noted rivers, and among the reft the Occa and Cama ; and empties itfelf into the Cafpia?i fea through feveral mouths or channels, which form a great many iflands. 2. The Don, in Latin Ta?iais, by the Tartars called Tuna or Duna. The ancients ranked the Tauais among the moft famous rivers, and looked upon it as the boundary between Europe and Afia. Its fource is not far from Tula, in the Iwano Ojero or Johns lake. It runs firft from north to fouth ; and after its conflux with the Sojha near the fortrefs of Nowa Paw- loiii/kaia in the Government of Woronefe, it directs its courfe from Weft to Eaft, and in feveral large windings runs again from North to South. At laft it divides into three channels which begin to fpread from each other below Czerkaßoi, and falls into the Palm Metotis near Afozo and Lutik. The waters of the Don are thick and chalky ; and confequently not very wholfome to drink. In fummer this river is very (hallow and full of land-banks ; however, it affords plenty both of fmail and large fifh. The Don, in its courfe, approaches fo near to the Wolga, that the diftance be- tween them in one place is but one hundred and forty Werfl, or about eighty Engliß miles. But if the river Laivla which runs into the Don, and the Camlßnnka, which empties itfelf into the Wolga, were made navigable, the diftance between the two rivers then would hardly be four Werfis ; and they might be eafily united by cutting a canal. However, it is laid that Peter the Great did not think this project feafible. 3. The Dwina, in Latin Duma, a very large river. The name fignifies double ; for it is formed by the conflux of the two rivers Sukcna and Tug at Ußiaga. This river divides itfelf into two branches or channels near Archangel, which run into the White Sea. Some imagine that a famous temple flood on the bank of this river, in which an idol called Solotaia Baba, or the ' Golden Matron,' was fct up. This Goddefs was wor- ihipped, under the name oiTumala, not only by the inhabitants of the coun- try ; but by the Scythian and Grecian merchants, who reiided near the Dnieper and the Black Sea, and uled to travel hither to trade and pay their adorations to the idol. Others place that temple on the Pechora, and others again, with greater probability, on the river Oby, but the * This fifh is about eight or tea feet in length, and is efteemed preferable to the Sturgeon. whole RUSSIA. whole is very uncertain. The Duina or Duna a river of Poland, though its fource is likewife in Riffia, is not to be confounded with this river. 4. The Dnieper, or Danapris, in Latin Boryßhenes, rifes from a morafs in the foreft of IVolconßi about twenty German or Geographical miles above Smolenß. It forms feveral windings through Lithuania, Little Rujjia, the country of the Zaporo-Cofaks, and a tract inhabited by the Nagaian Tar- tars of Crimea ; and after forming a Litnan, or marfhy lake, of fixty Werjis in length, and in many places two, four, or even ten Werjh in breadth, it lofes itfelf in the Black Sea between Oczacow and Kinburn. The banks of this river on both fides are generally high, and the foil is excellent ; but the water in fummer is not very wholfome. The Dnieper has no lefs than thirteen water-falls within the fpace of iixty Werfls ; yet in fpring, during the land-floods, empty vefiels may be hailed over them. This river, till it comes to the Liman near the mouth of it, is lb full of iflands, that all the intervals being computed together do not amount to thirty Englijh miles ; and abounds with fturgeon, fterled, carp, pyke, ka- raujh, &c. The only bridge over the Dnieper is the float-bridge at Kiew, which is 1638 paces in length. This bridge is taken away about the end of September, to give the flakes of ice a free paflage down the river, and is again put together in fpring. A great number of mills erected in boats are to be feen on this river ; any one being allowed the liberty of letting them up. §. 3. The principal lakes in this part of the Ruffian Empire are, 1 . The Peipus lake in Li-vonia, called in the Ruffian language Tjhudßoe Ofero, which is ten geographical miles* in length, and feven or eight in breadth. It abounds with filTi ; and runs into the gulf of Finland by the river Narva. This lake has alfo a communication with that of Ple/koio which is called by the Ruffians Pßowßoe Ofero. 2. The famous lake of Ladoga, which lies between the gulf of Finnland and the Onega-lake, is twenty-five German or geographical miles in length, and fifteen in breadth. It is reckoned the largeit lake in Europe, and is fuppofed to exceed any other for plenty of fifh, among which are alio feals or fea-dogs. Ladoga is full of quick-fands, which being moved from place to place by the frequent ftorms it is lubjedf. to, caufe feveral fhelves along its coafts, that often prove fatal to the flat-bottomed Ruffian vefiels. This induced Peter the Great to caufe a canal of one hundred and four Werjh -}- in length, feventy feet in breadth, and ten or eleven feet deep, to be cut at a vaft expence from the fouth-weft extremity of this lake in Jngria and Novogrod, to the lea ; which with the neceffary windings * The miles by which the Author computes the length and breadth of thefe lakes, ÖV. are mentioned in göneral tenns; buc as mile is a word of iuch latitude, it were to be wifhed he had been more aecui it« f Near fevent) j^r^'jb miles. was 413 4 i4 R U S S I A. was carried from Schhßelburg to New Ladoga in the river Wolcow. This work was begun in the year 1 7 1 8 ; and though it was vigorcufly profecuted, was not compleated till the year 1732, in the reign of the Emprefs Anne. This canal at nrft reached no farther than a village called Cabona fituated on a river of the fame name, at the diftance of forty-four Werßs from Schluß- fclburg, and where the veffels failed into the lake j for which purpofe the fluice is ftill kept up there. The canal has twenty-five fluices ; feveral rivers run into it as the Lipka, NaJJia, Tzeldika, Lawa, Cabona, and two fmaller anonymous ftreams on which ftand two finall villages. At the diftance of every Werß along this canal is erecfed a pillar marked with the number of Werßs, &c. It is the ccnftant employment of a regiment of foldiers to keep the canal in repair ; and for this purpofe they are quar- tered in feveral places on its banks. In fummer-time it is covered with floats and veffels palling from the Woiccw to the Neva, which pay toll in proportion to the value of their cargo ; but not a few, to avoid the duty, and the labour of drawing the veffel or the floats on the canal, rather ventuie on the Ladoga-lake. The illands Sarcow, Selency, Kirwet and Tinow, which lie in the lake and are inhabited by fiihermen, may be ieen from the canal. The river Neva, which fliall be ipoken of in the fequel, illues from this lake. 3. The lake of Onega lies betwixt lake Ladoga and the White Sea ; and has a communication with the former by means of the river Swir. Its length is one hundred and eighty Rnßian Werßs, the breadth about eighty ; and though it be a frefh-water lake feals are often feen in it. A fcheme was laid before Peter the Great for joining the rivers Wytegra and Rouß.a, and by that means opening a communication betwixt the Onega-lake and Belofiro or the White Lake : But the execution of this plan was prevented by the death of that Monarch. We fliall now proceed to give an account of The Provinces acquired by Russia, and taken from the Swedes in • this century ; and thefe are Livonia, Ingria, and Carelia. I. The Dutchies of LIVONIA and E S? HO N I A. § 1 . AMONG the maps of this dutchy which are extant, that fliled •*• *• Nova totius Livonice accurata deßriptio, apud *Janß'onio-Waeßcrgios & Mo/em Pitt, is at prefent too obfolete, and much lefs accurate than the Nova extibitio geographica ducatuum Livonia & Curlandice publifhed by Ho- mann. Livonia.] RUSSIA. mann. The map of Eßhonia and Livonia inferted in the Rußan Atlas, notvvithftanding all its improvements, is not without many faults. This map, indeed, exhibits more countries than its title contains ; for befides Eßhonia and Livonia, it alfo includes Courland, Ingermania, and part of the Govern- ments of Novogrod and Smolensk. §.2. The country we are now defcribing was formerly inhabited by three different nations, namelv, the Livonians, Lettcnians, and Eflhoniam. It was accordingly divided into Ließard or Livonia, Lettland or Letlonia, and Eßkland ör Eßhonia', not to mention Courland and Semgallen, which Dutchies, till the time of Gothard Kettlern, alfo made a part of this country. The name of Lie/laud or Livonia, which properly belongs only to the Diftrict that lies along the Dwia, has in time been applied alfo to Let- tonia ; and in common converiation Livonia includes the country properly fo called, together with Lettonia and Eßhonia. But to fpeak with greater precision, Livonia, or the fouth part of the country, muff be carefully diffinguithed from Eßhonia, or the north part ; which diftinction we lhall obferve in the particular defcription of them. §. 3. This country* borders on Courland, the Baltic, the gulf of Finnland, Ingria, Rujia, and Poland. It extends in length from North to South between forty-five and fifty geographical or German miles ; and its breadth from Eaft to Weft is from thirty-five to forty, exclufive of the iflands belong- ing to it. §. 4. Livonia confifts partly of woods and moraffes, and partly of 3 fertile foil, which yields the inhabitants all the neceffaries of life in great plenty. The air is clear and falubrious ; and though the winter be long and fevere, and the fummer, confequently, but fhort ; yet the heat of the climate during the latter feafon is fuch, that the grain fown both in fum- mer and winter ripens at the proper time. In a plentiful year when the crops have not failed, the inhabitants export many thoufänd Lafts of rye and barley to Holland, Spain, and other foreign countries : Hence Livonia is called the ' Granary of the North.' Before the corn is threfhed, it is dried and hardened in kilns heated by large ftoves or ovens, which are built contiguous to their barns ; however, this does not render it unfit for fowing, or for making bread and malt ; befides, it keeps the better for it. The horned cattle, horfes, and goats of this country are very numerous, and much efteemed ; but the fheep are not extraordinary, their wool being coarfe, and refembling goats hair. Vaft quantities of flax, hemp, lin-feed, leather and fkins are exported from hence in foreign bottoms. * Livonia, including Eßhonia and Ldtonia. 5 The 415 4 i 6 RUSSIA. [Livonia. The rivers which water this country are the Ditna *, the Aa, the Embak, the Perhaii), &c. It has alio many ftanding-lakes, as that of Peipus -j- mentioned above, the WefcZfr-like, which is five geographical miles in length and two in breadth, the Lu&an-hke, &c. Both the lakes and rivers afford plenty of the fineft falmon, and other fifh. Turbots are alfo taken in the gulf of Riga ; and the fisheries fupport a confiderable part of the in- habitants. Strömlings, which are a fpecies of herrings, are found in vaft fhoals along thefe coafts, and are the common food of the peafants who fait great quantities of them. In the prefent reign a Swede has fet on foot a pearl fifhery, and there are above forty-five rivulets and lakes in Eflhonia and Livonia where this fifhery is can ied on; but the former yields more pearls than the latter, which come pretty near the oriental pearls both for fize and clearnefs. This country was formerly overrun with vaft woods of oak, fir, pine, and birch-trees ; but thefe are now too thin, partly by the method of building prac- t fed by the inhabitants, whofe houfes and other edifices in towns and villages confift almoft entirely of wood ; and partly by their clearing of the woods in order to cultivate the land for lowing corn, &c. The harbour of Ro- derick, which required a prodigious quantity of timber, contributed not a little to the deftruclicn of the woods in Livonia. However the country has reaped one advantage by it ; for it is not fo much infefted with bears, wolves, elks, lynxes, martens, and other wild beafts. Livonia, ftill abounds with the fmaller wild quadrupeds and other game; fo that hares, which turn white here in winter, and wild fowl, are fold very cheap. As for flags, deer, and wild boars, there are none in this country. Quarries of good ftone are very common here. The highways and roads in Livonia are in very good order; and at the end of every RnJJian Werfi a red pillar is erected, on which is marked the number of the Werßs paffed and remaining in travelling from one capital to another. The country inns are very mean ; but the poft- houfes have every thing in proper order. The diftances between the principal towns are as follows. From Riga to Näfva 400 Werßs, or 2 1 Poft-ftages. From Riga to Pemaw 1 72 Werßs, or 9 Poft-ftages. From Peniavj to Reval 138 Werßs, or 6 Poft-ftages. From Reval to Habfal 95 Werßs, or 4 Poft-ftages. From Reval to Narva 196 Werßs, or 9 Poft-ftages. The fledges are a very great conveniency for carrying on trade, and travelling in winter. §. 5. This country was formerly interfperfed with a great number of towns and villages : But in the wars and commotions which Livonia has fo often experienced, moft of them were dcftroyed ; fo that at prefent nothing but * This is called here Duna to diftinguifh it from the Dwina, which runs to Archangel. §Q£. pag. 412, No 3. •f See §. 3 of the Introduction to Rußia, the Livonia.] RUSSIA. the ruins of many of them are to be feen. A traveller paffes thr< more towns in a journey of twelve or fifteen geographical miles in many countries, than in all this vail extent of land. To the fame caufe alfo the poverty oi' the Livonian peafants may be attributed ; who amidff. all their affluence find fo much difficulty in turning the overplus of their fubdancc into mon;y, that they arc obliged to give half of it away, and at the fame time- buy whatever foreign commodities they have occafion for, at a very high price. §. 6. This country might undoubtedly afford fubfiftence to a much greater number of inhabitants than it has at prefent ; for they have been extremely thinned by war, peflilence and famine. The number of them may in fome meafure be determined by the following method. The eftates in Li- vonia are taxed according to the number oi Hakes, i. e. ' of men fit for labour from fifteen to fifty years of age ;' five of thefe being reckoned to a Hake. Now the peafants of EJlhonia are laid to conliff. only of 5000 Hakes, which amount to 25,000 labouring men ; an inconfiderable number for a province of fuch extent. Beiides the inhabitants who are defcended from the Germans, this country contains great numbers of Eflhonians and Letotnians, which are people of a very different extraction and language ; but their manners and cuftoms are pretty much the fame. The Eflhonians feem from the affinity of the two lan- guages and other circumftances, to be derived from the fame origin with the Finns. The Lettonians both from their name and language appear to befprung from the fame ffock as the Lithuanians, who were a mixture of feveral Sarma- tian tribes. They are both termed Undent fchen, i. e. ' people that are not Ger- mans', by the other inhabitants. Their ftature very feldom exceeds the middle n ze; but they are vigorous and hardy ; enduring cold and heat, and undergoing the greateft labour and fatigue with chearfulnefs. Their houfes are very mean- ly built ; and the rooms quite black with fmoke. They are ail vafläls, or rather ilaves to their lords, who may treat them as they pleafe, if they do not kill them. Their chief occupations are agriculture, grazing, and fome- times filhing ; but they have a good natural genius for mechanics. They are very much given to drunkennefs ; and are full fond of many fuper- ftitious pradices in private. There are alfo many Rußans in this coun- try. The languages ufually fpoken by the inhabitants are, the Lettonian, the Efthonian, the German, the Ruffian, the S-iaediJh, and Finjiean tongues. §^7. The Nobility are very numerous, and are moifly of foreign -ex- traction ; for their anceftors were partly fach familes as anciently came into Livonia with the King of Denmark; but for the mod part removed hither from Germany, particularly from Thuring ia, JVeJiphalia, Pomerwid, Meck- lenburg, and other parts of the circle of Lower Saxony. J It re arc alio ferne noble families of Swediflo and Beliß extraction. Moft of the Nobility of this country have always given themfelves up entirely to a military life. Vol. I. H h h Thole 4*7 4 i 8 RUSSIA. [Livonia. Thole of another turn of mind, who refide on their eftates and make im- provements in agriculture, are generally inverted with civil and juridical em- ments; and of this clafs are Governors, Prefects, Lahd-Marßals, provin- cial" and Hake Judges, &e. The Nobility are far from being fufferers by falling under the dominion of Rußa ; for fincethat time all their rights and privileges have been confirmed to them ; and the eftates which the Court of Sweden had reaffumed have likewife been reftored to the former feudatories. A Diet or Provincial Afiembly is held for EJlhonia once in three years at Rcval, in which a Chief Head of the Noblelfe, who is equal to a Land- Marshal] is chofen by a majority of votes ; and at the expiration of that office he is entitled to the next furvivorfhip of the port of Land-Rath, or provincial Counfellor. Every thing relating to the public utility is the fubjecl: of the deliberations of this Diet ; and out of it is appointed a committee in which the Lädd-Raths, as they are called, have a feat. The Diet is convened on any important occafion by the chief of the Nobility. A Diet is never held at Riga without permiffion from the Ruffian Court ; which being ob- tained, a Land-Marfoal is chofen, whofe employment is chiefly confined to the affairs under deliberation in the Diet. §. 8. Artificers and mechanics are not fo common here as in other coun- tries. The commerce of Livonia always flounfhes in-time of peace ; Riga, Reval, and Narva being well known in the commercial world. Pernau is likewife in a flourifhing condition. However, thefe towns fuffer greatly from the clandeftine trade, which is carried on by land ; and though it has been often prohibited it ftill encreafes. The gentry purchafe corn both of their own vaffals and other peafants; and fome of them diftil fpirits from it, while others fend it to the fea-ports, and there fell it to the beft advantage. The peafants are obliged to bring what corn they intend for fale to the Noblemen's feats, where, inftead of ready money for it, they generally re- ceive iron, fait, fteel, tobacco, and other commodities and utenfils of little value. §. 9. At Riga and Reval are good Gymnafa, or Seminaries, and fchools : but this country at prefent cannot boafb of one Univerfity. §. 1 o. The inhabitants of Livonia, for the moft part, profefs Lutheranifm > but the Calvinifts, Papifts, and Rußans are indulged with the free exercife of their religion. There is an yearly allowance from the crown of 1200 Rubels towards the fupport of the national churches in this country ; but the churches of the feparatifts do not partake of this bounty. The Bible has been publifhed here in the Lettonian and Eflhonian languages. In Esthonia, all the country parifhes, together with the cathedral of Reval, with regard to ecclefiaftical jurifdi&ion, are fubjecl to the Nobility, and are but forty in number : we may hence form a conjecture of their great extent. They are divided into Provoftfhips, according to the Circles in which they are included. The Confiftory of Nobles is compofed of a prefident,. Livonia.] RUSSIA. 4.1g prciidcnt, who is a Land-Raih or provincial Counfcllcr, Provofts, the Preachers belonging to the cathedral of Reval, and fomc other Aileflbrs, Here is alio a Supreme Court of Appeals in fpiritual caufes, which confifts of fome eccleiiaftics, Lc.nd-Ralhs, and noblemen. Livonia or thu General- Government of Riga contains above one hundred and twenty parishes, which together with St. James's church in Riga, is under the jurifdicli >n of the Confiftory of Nobles. Over thefe prefixes a General §uperiniendantj > has his residence at Riga. The High-Con fiftory is alio held at Riga, and the prefident of it is a Land-Rath. Every Circle has a Governor in civil and eccleiiaftical affairs, who mult be of the clafs of the Nobility. The Miniilers of Pcmau, Dcrpat, and other fnvail towns in Livonia, are iiibject to the General Superintendant } but the cities of Riga, Reval, and Narva have their own Confiftories, which, as well as their magistracy, are independent of the Nobility. § . 11. The higheft tribunal in Esthonia is that called the Government or Supreme Provincial Court, which meets to adminifter juftice every year about the middle of January, and continues fitting till Eaßer. It confifts of the Governor as prefident, and twelve Land-Rafts or Provincial Counfellors, who are all Noble, and have the rank of Major-General. The Land-Rails may, by a free choice, fill up the vacancies in their college from among the Nobility, without any licence or nomination from the crown ; and the fenior Land-Raths compofe a Government in the abfence of the other Go- vernors. Subordinate to this tribunal are the Mann-Gerichte or inferior courts, and Hakeh-Richter or inferior judges. The Haken-Richter of every Circle in Eßhonia has two AdjunBi or affiftants. His office is to take care of the roads and bridges, to levy the money granted by the Nobility at the Diet for the fervice of the public ; and all difputes about limits and other incidents have the firft hearing before him. A Mann-Gericbt, of which in all there are three, confifts of a Judge, two AffefTors, and a Notary. Thefe take cog- nizance of all criminal matters, and difputes of more importance. An appeal alio lies from the Haken-Richter to the Mann-Richter. Both thefe are ap- pointed by the Land-Raths college, and mull: be of the clafs of Nobles ; and continue in office but three years. When they are exchanged the sldjuncli are ufually made Affeffbres ; and one of the Aiiefibrs is appointed Haken- Richter-, and the Haken-Richtcr is promoted to be Mann-Richter. As thefe courts are held only at certain times, the plaintiffs are obliged previoully to apply to the General-Government or Supreme Council, where the Governor who is nominated by the Crown prelides. In the General-Government of RiGA.orLivoNiA, the chief tribunal are the Hof-Gericht or SupremeCourt of Judicature which is appointed bvthzCzarina. Here are alfo twelve Land-Raths, or Provincial Councilors ; but only one of them has a feat in the Hof -Gericht. Each of thefe Land-Raths relides in his turn ztRiga for a month, in order to prefide in the College of the Nobility, and IT h h 2 takes 4 2o RUSSIA. [Livonia. fakes cognizance of the fame affairs as the above-mentioned Chief of the Nobles does in EJihonia. The Land-Raths indeed elect the College ; but their choice mutt be confirmed at the Ritßan Court. The inferior courts are, the Land-Gericht and Ordnungs-Gericht, the members of which have the ; r refpective Afitiibrs ; and they are on the fame footing as the Mann- Rtchter and Haken-Richter in EJihonia. But from all thefe courts there lies an appeal to the College of Judicature eftablifhed at Petersburg for the pro- vinces of Rfihcnia and Livonia; and from that again to the Senate, which is the Supreme Tribunal for the whole Ritßan Empire. §. 12. The ancient hiftory of thefe Dutchies is very dark and obfeure. Pagnaniim prevailed here down to the twelfth century, when by the follow- ing accident the Chriilian religion was firft introduced into Livonia properly fo called. In the year 1 1 58, fome merchants of Bremen bound to Wisby in Gothland were driven by ftrefs of weather on the coaft of Livonia, and landed at the mouth of the river Dana near the Baltic. The inhabitants of thofe parts who called themfelves Liven, at firft, were for oppofing their land- ing ; but becoming more tractable by degrees, they trafficked together. Thefe beginnings the Bremeners improved, by rcforting hither in greater num- bers with commodities to trade with the natives ; and with the confent of the inhabitants, went about two leagues up the Dana, where they pitched their tents. After this they built a ftrong ware-houfe of timber on an eminence, in which they depefited their goods. To this edifice the inhabitants gave the name of Ykeskola, that is, a fchool or convent ; and to this very day it is called Uxkul. The German colonifts encreafing in number, brought with them, probably about the year 1186, an ecclefiaftic of the name of Mein- Lard, who was an Augujline monk of the convent of Segeberg in Wagric. This monk, having learnt the language of the country, perfuaded fome of the inhabitants to be baptized. The town of Uxkul was then built with llone, and a caftle was erected at the foot of the hill. In the iormer Mcinhard founded a church and a convent of Augufiine monks. This firft preacher of the Golpel was made Bithop ; and Kcrkholm was erected into an epifcopal fee. From this time feveral German families came and fettled in Livonia. About the fame a?ra, namely 1 196, Canute VI. King of Den- mark made an expedition into EJihonia ; and having fubdued that province, he introduced Chriftianity, erected churches in the country, and fent priefts to officiate in them. Bifhop Albert, in order to promote the con- tuieft of Livonia, inftituted the order of knighthood called the Knights of Chrift ; and Pope Innocent III. gave them the fame Statutes with the Knights Templars, and a crofs and a fword as a badge to be worn on their coats, enjoining them at the fame time to obey the Bifhop of Riga. In the \ ear J 206, Bifhcp Albert gave a grant to the Order of the third part of Livonia, with alt the privileges of Sovereignty ; which was confirmed by Pope Innocent III. in the year 12 10, who exempted the Knights from tythes 4 and Livonia.] RUSSIA. and other imports. The firfl Grand-Mafter of this order was Wttmo, who ordered that the Knights for the future mould be filled Fratres Enßferi * or fword-bearing Knights.' In J 231, thefe Fratres E?i/ijeri were iblemnly united with the Knights of the Teutonic order ; and as the habit of theie incorporated Knights was a white mantle with a black crofs, they fliled themfelves ' Brothers of the crofs.' But this humble title, in 1382, they changed to that of ' Lords of the Crofs.' In the year 1346, Waldemar III. King of Denmark fold Eßhonia to this Order for 18,000 Lothigc marks of filver*. In 152 1, Walter Plettenberg, the General of this order, purchafed from the Grand Mailer of the Teutonic order in Prußia the chief jurifdiction in Livonia; and he as well as the States of Livonia were difcharged from their oath of obedience to the Teutonic Grand Mailer. And not long after, the Emperor Charles V. admitted them among the Princes of the Empire. By this privilege the Livomans had a right of appealing from their high Court of judicature to the Aulic Council at Spires. About this time the Reformation began to fpread itfelf throughout the whole country. Towards the middle of this fixteenth century the Czaar limn Bafiltrwitz formed the defign of conquering this country ; which induced the city of Reval and the dutchy of Eßhonia to put themfelves under the pro- tection of Sweden : And on this was grounded the claim of that crown to Livonia, and the fuperior privileges which Eßhonia enjoyed beyond Livonia. Gotha Ketler, who was chief of the Order, gave up Livonia to the King of Pola?id, as great Duke of Lithuania, upon which it was an- nexed to that crown ; Iblemnly refigned his command j and in 1 56 1 was created the firft Duke of Courland, but was to hold this Dutchy as a fief of Poland. The Poles alfo got poifeffion of Riga and Lettonia. And now this country became the caufe, as well as the difmal fcene of very bloody wars betwixt Rußia, Sweden, and Poland for a whole century ; namely, from the year 1561 to 1660. By the peace of Oliva, which was concluded in 1660, Livonia was given up by Poland to Sweden ; and the Duna was agreed on as the boundary be- twixt the Swedt/h and Poliß: dominions. In 1681, the decrees of the Diet held at Stockholm in 1680 concerning the RealTumption of alienated crown- lands, began to be put in execution here ; which was an extreme grievance to the Nobility. In the famous northern war which broke out in the beginning of the prefent eighteenth century, this country was miferably ravaged ; till at lafl, by the treaty of Nyßadt concluded in the year 1721, Sweden agreed to cede Livonia for ever to Rußia. In the fourth article of that treaty it is exprefly ftipulated ' That the crown of Sweden (hall yield and give 421 A Lothige mark is nine ounces twelve-penny weights Troy weight. up 422 RUSSIA. [Riga. up to the Ruffian Empire for ever, as lawful conquefts, the provinces of L'vviia, Ejlhonia, and Ingria; a part of Carelia, together with the DiftricT: of Wiburg, and the towns and Fortreffes or Riga, Di.namunde, Perndu, Reval, Dorf at, Narva, Wiburg, Kexholm ; and all towns, forts, harbours, places, diftrifts, and coafts belonging to the laid provinces • with the iflands of Ocfel, Dagoe and Moen, and ail other iflands lying off the frontiers of Courland towards the coafts of Livonia, E/t Ionia, and Ingria, on the c\i\ tide of Reval, and in the road of Wiburg, as they were profeffed by the crown of Sweden' In the ninth and tenth articles of the fame treaty. * His Czarijh Ma- jefiy engages to preferve and maintain the inhabitants of all ranks and degrees in Livonia, Ejlhonia, and the ifland of Ocfel, and alio the towns, magiftracies, companies, and trades in the faid provinces, in the confeant and unmolefted enjoyment of all the rights, privileges, cuftoms, and jurifdi&ions, which they were in pofleffion of under the dominion of Sweden ; and that in thele ceded countries he fhall be lb far from of- fering any violence to the confeiences of the inhabitants, as to permit the Evangelical [Lutheran] religion, with the churches and fchools, and all the endowments, &.c. thereto belonging, to remain and continue on the lame footing as under the Swedifb government; with a provifo, that the profefibrs of the Greek religion fhall likewife enjoy an entire liberty of confidence, and die free exercife of their religion in thofe provinces.' In the year 1741, Sweden attempted the recovery of part of thefe ceded countries, but this was attended with a farther lofs of part of Finnland ; and by the peace of Abo, which was concluded in 1743, Ruffia was not only confirmed in the poffeffion of all its conquefts, but acquired fome additional Diftri&s in Finnland, of which an account fhall be given in the fequel. Since this country -has been under the Ruffian dominion it has been divided into two General Governments and one City, which are, 1. The General Government of Riga. This Government contains Lettonia, to which the name of Livonia \- nlfo given in a more limited fenfe, and confifts of the Circles of Riga, Wenden Pemau, Dorpat, and the province of Oefel. The towns and other places of note in the General Government of Riga are as follows. Riga, the capital of the whole country, is fituated on the river Duna and is faid to derive its name from a rivulet formerly called Rige, now Rijing, which is almofr dried up. This city is not of any great extent, but popu- lous, wlII fortified, and famed for its trade and opulence. In the year 1660, rles XI. King of Sweden hot only declared it to be the capital of the country; but conferred on it the next rank to Stockholm, and honoured all the members of its council, and their fucceffors, whilft they have a feat ■ h the title of Noble. The houfes are handfome and for Riga.] RUSSIA. 4 :>j for the moft part, built with ftone ; but the ftreets arc narrow, and the manner of building very much refembles that of the Hanfe-torcns fituated on tlve Baltic. The Lutheran churches, namely, the Cathedral, St. j , St. Mary Magdalene's, St. Peters, and St. Johns are handfome ftrudures. The Seminaries called the imperial Lyceum and the city Gymnafw.m, the mailers of which have very confiderable falaries, are in a flourilhing condition. Here are alfo an old caftle, a ftrong citadel, and two arienals well ftored with arms, one at the charge of the crown and the other of the city. The fortifications, both on the land and water-lide, have been improved under its prefent mafters ; and thefe towards the fea are enlarged by ad- ditional works. This city, by means of its excellent harbour, has a gocd trade with England, Holland, and the Hanfe-towns during the fummer-fea- fon ; and in winter-time it trafticks with the Ruffian provinces by the con- veniency of fledges. Its privileges, which are very confiderable, were con- firmed by the Emprefs Anne. The Supreme Court of Judicature for Li- vonia, and the High-Confiftory are held it this city ; which is alfo the refidence of the Governor and General Superintendent. Riga was built in the year 1200, and foon after incloied with a wall. It has fuffered very much both by fires and fieges : Of the latter the moft remarkable are thoic it fuftained from the Rußans in 1656 ; the Saxo?is and Poles in 1700 ; and a fecond time from the Rußans in 17 10, when it was obliged to fubmit to the victorious arms of Peter the Great. Dunamunde is a noble fortification lying about two Geographical miles from Riga, at the mouth of the Duna, where the fhips which fail out of the Baltic into that river pay toll or cuftom. This place was taken by the Swedes m 1609, and 1618; and by the Saxons in 1700, who gave it the name of Augujlusburg. In 1701, it furrendered a third time to the Swedes, who by that means became mafters of a fine train of artillery belonging to the Saxons; and in 1710, it was taken by the Rußans. Dunamunde was formerly a convent of Cißercian monks, founded in the year 120 1 by Albert Bifhop of Livonia. Wenden was formerly a place of great note, and the refidence of the Mafter of the Teutonic Order; and feveral Diets were alfo held there. It is, at prefent, but a fmall mean town ; efpecially fince it was entirely confumed by fire in the year 1748. When Wenden was beiieged and taken by the Rußans in the year i $jj, feveral of the inhabitants, dread ; ng the favage cruelty of the Rußian army, blew themfelves up with the caftle of this town. It belongs at prefent to Count Bejluchef, the great Chancellor of Rußa. - Wolmar is a mean town fituated on the river Aa ; and derives- its name from Waldemar II. King of Denmark, on account of a vidtory which he obtained in this place in 1220 over the pagan Livonians. It was built in the year 1283 ; and was entirely burnt down, except the church and the caftle, in the year 1689. The 424 RUSSIA. [Riga. The other caftles and places of note in Lettonia were Rockenhaufen, which was formerly the Bilhop's See; Aß:erade ; Walk, a fmall town; I^emfaij another little town ; Tret Jen; Uxkuh, Leu-Garden ; Lujban ; Shmihcn-, Ron- neburg ; Erla ; Kerkhohn, &c. which are now all in rains. Dorpat or Dorpt, in Latin Derptum, Derbatum or Torpaiian, a town fitaated on the river Einbeck, which is called Emma Joggi, i. e. ' Mother ' river,' by the Eßbonians, lies in the Circle of the lame name, and is alio called Odcmpe. It was built in the year 1030, by Iurii laroßatv Wladiminiz, Great Duke of Ruß a, who gave it the name of Juriew; but the Ruffians continued in the poffefiion of it only to the year 1 1 9 1 . Volquin, Great mafter of the Order of the Fraircs Enßferi took Dorpat by aflault in 12 10. Soon after, this town was rebuilt at the expence of thole Knights ; who alfo erected it into a Bifhop's See. It was formerly in a flourifhing condition, being the refidence of a Bifhop, and embelliihed with a cathedral : it was alio a member of the Hanfeatic confederacy ; and, by means of the communication it had with Pernau by a canal, which was deftroyed in the laft Ruffian wars, carried on a confiderable trade by fea. An Engltßj ftaple was alfo fixt in this town, as appears from the large ftone edifice which was the Engl/ß: factory, but afterwards converted into a magazine. While Dorpat was fubject to the Swedes it was fometimes the refidence of the Governor ; and the Supreme Court of Judicature and High-Confiftory, were held there till the commencement of the laft war. In the year 1632, Gußavus Adolphus founded an Univerlity in this town; and this falling to utter decay amidft the confufions of lubfequent wars, was reftored in 1690: But in the year 1699, it was removed to Pernau. Belides, the in- habitants were wealthy, and the town was embellifhed with many handiome ftone-edifices ; but its wealth and beauty have, from time to time, fallen a prey to the frequent ravages of war. Not to mention the more ancient fieges of Dorpat, and thole in 1582, 1604, and 1654; this city was befieged by the Rußians in 1704, when it was taken and plundered, and the inhabitants treated with great cruelty. But the total ruin of it happened in the year 1708, when all the inhabitants were carried away, as prifoners of war, by the Ruffians, and the caftle and fortifications blown up. Thole unhappy captives being afterwards permitted to return to their native place, rebuilt it with mean timber-houfes as their wretched circumftances would permit. Since the peao: of N\ßadt the number of its inhabitants has been con- fulerably increafed ; many foreigners having fettled here, which has made the town rather more populous than it was under the dominion of the rdes. But nocwithftanding all this, almoif all the buildings ftill lie in ruins ; and the fortifications, walls, and gate:., with moll of the public ■ :ices and private houfes, which are fallen to decay, make a very me- lancholy Reval.] R U S S S I A. 425 Iancholy appearance. There are as yet but fifteen private houfes built with ftone at Dorpat, and as for public buildings, none but the magazine and the German or St. yohris church. The prefent inhabitants, tbough very numerous, are generally poor and indigent, and their affairs are not yet reftored to their proper order ; nor are their former privileges confirmed. Its Univerfity, which was for a time removed to Pernau, is quite fallen to decay. Here is an imperial Office called the Oeconomie. Pernau lies in the Circle of Pernau, and on the liter of the fame name, near the Baltic. It is but a fmall town moftly built with timber, has fome trade, and is defended by a caftle : it contains about a hundred houfes. I obferved above that the Univerfity of Dorpat was removed hither; but the college is now converted into a magazine ; and there is fcarce fo much as a common fchool remaining in the town. The fortifications are füll kept in a defenfible ftate. Fellin, a fmall town and cafHe in the Circle of Pernau. The province of Oefel, which includes the iflands of Oefel, Moon, and Runoe. The ifland of Oefel, O/ilia, lies at the entrance of the gulf of Riga about two leagues to the fouth of Dagho. It is fourteen geographical miles in length, and between two and three in breadth, and contains ten parilhes. The foil is ftony, but fertile. It was formerly fubject to the Grand Mafter of the Teutonic Order, but without prejudice to the crown. of Denmark's pretenfions to it. At laft, the Knights refigned it up to the Danes, who, at the peace of Bremjebro, ceded it to the Swedes ; and the latter, by the treaty of Nyjladt, gave it up to Rußa. It was formerly a diocefe ; but at prefent is included within the General Government of Riga : However, it has an Unterfiatthalter or Deputy-Governor, a College of Land-Raths or Provincial Counfellors, and its chief of the Nobility. The Deputy-Governor refides at Arenjburg one of the towns of Oefel. Sonnehurg was formerly a caftle ; but is now totally demoliihed. A light-houfe has been erected on this ifland for the fafety of navigators. The Eflhonians call this ifland Currefaar, i e. ' the ifland of the Cures ;' The inhabitants having in all ages been famed for privateering. M. Gruber tuppofes that the word Corfair, which fignifies a pirate, is derived from the name of thefe people, contrary to the general opinion which deduces it from the Corjicans. The little ifland of Moon which lies near Oefel conftitutes a parifh. The ifland of Runoe alfo lies in the gulf of Riga ; and a light-houfe is erected on it. -2. The general Government of Reval. This Government includes the province of E/lhonia ; or the fmall Dis- tricts of Wyk, which is divided into Land Wyk and Strand Wyk, Eafi and Wejl Harriett, Ierwen, and Wirrland. The chief town in this go- vernment is Vol. I. I i i Reval, 426 RUSSIA. [Reval. Reval, which lies on the Baltic, and though not very large, is an opulent city and well fortified j and is a place of considerable trade. In the year 12 1 8, both the town and caStle were founded by Waldemar II. King of Denmark, on the fame place where his ancestors had built the convent of 'St. Michael, which, in 1310, was included within its walls. This town, as well as the whole dutchy of Efihonia, received moft of its privileges from the Daniß Kings ; and the arms of Denmark, with infcriptions in the Danijh language, are ftill feen in the churches and other public edifices. The houies are moftly of brick, and v/ell built ; but the ftreets are fome- thing irregular. The only churches or congregations here, beiides thofe of the Ruffian Church, are Lutherans. The Germans, including the Su- perintendent, have four Minifters which conftitute the town clergy : But the cathedral, in which two preachers officiate, belongs to the Nobility ; who alfo have their Chapter of Nobles there. The Swedifl) congregation has but one Minifter ; and that of Undeuifcbe or native Eßhonians has two preachers. An annual affembly of all the clergy of Efihonia is held at Reval; but the town-minifters are excluded from this Synod. The im- perial Gymnafium or Seminary, founded here in the year 163 1, has fourPro- feSfors, and one teacher of the Ruffian language. Here is alio a town-School; and near the cathedral the fchool of the Nobility, which has five clafies. The tolls or cuftoms of this town are confiderable ; of which the magittracy have a part, and the reft belongs to the crown. Reval has its own arfenal ; and maintains a number of matrofies, and a company of foldiers. This city, formerly, made no inconfiderable figure among the Hanfe-towns -, and is ftill a ftaple-town, and has a flourifhing trade. Its harbour is convenient and fpacious ; and a part of the Riifiian fleet ufually lies in it. The town is furrounded with high walls, Strengthened with baftions, and a deep ditch ; and for its further Security is fortified with a caftle, which Stands on a rock and is embellifhed with Several towers. The citizens have very pleafant gardens without the walls. King Waldemar II. erecfed this city into a BiShop's See. Reval was totally destroyed by fire in the year 1433; an( ^ ' n ] 7'o Surrendered to Peter the Great, who not only confirmed its former privi- lesies, but reStored Several others of which the crown of Sweden had de- prived it. A quarter of a league from this city, near the Sea-fide, Stands the fine imperial Garden called Catharinen-Thal. The rich convent of Marienthal lies about a geographical mile from Reval. The building of this convent took up twenty-nine years, and was begun in the year 1400, or 1407; it was demolished at the Reformation, and is at preSent nothing but a heap of ruins. Padis, which was formerly a fortified convent ; but at preSent belongs to a nobleman. Habfaly Narva.] RUSSIA. 427 Habfal, a fmall town, lies on the fpot where formerly flood the cathe- dral of the diocefe of Oefel, which was a ftatcly edifice, but is now in a ruinous condition. It has a harbour; but has no great trade. Lode, a caftle in this neighbourhood. Lea!, a town where the See of Ocfel was firft. eftablilhed. The ifland of Dagho in the Baltic is tolerably fertile. It is of a trian- gular form, each fide being about three geographical miles in length. Da- geroth on this ifland is remarkable for a light-houle. Faden is a fmall town ; but has a pretty good harbour. Rogerwick, which lies not far from Padis, and about fix geographical miles from Reval. Here Peter I. purpofed to have made an excellent harbour, but it was not compleated in his tune. The Emprefs Elifabeth, in 1746, took a view of this place ; and ordered the work begun by her father to be profecuted. Wittenjlein or Weijfenjlein, a fmall country town, lies in the DiftricT: of Ierwen. Its caftle in the fixteenth and feventeenth centuries was feveral times befieged and taken ; but is now in ruins. Wafenberg, formerly a fmall town with a cattle, now a manor belong- ing to the noble family of Tiefenhaufen. 3. The City of Narva. This city lies on the borders of Ingria, on the banks of a rapid river of the fame name, which runs from the Peipus-lake, and empties itfelf into the gulf of Finnland about four leagues from the city. There is a high water-fall in this river about a geographical mile from Narva towards the lake ; fo that the goods brought from the lake to the city, mufl be taken out at that place and carried by land. The town, probably, derives its name from the river; and was built in the year 1224 by the Governor, in the reign of Waldemar II. King of Denmark. The circuit of Narva is not large ; but the houfes are handfomely built with flone. It flands very commodioufly for trade, is well fortified, and has always a ftrong garrifon. On the market-place ftands an elegant triumphal arch, erecled in the year 1 746 in honour of the prefent Emprefs Elifabeth. Befides the Ruffia7i churches here is alio a Lutheran church for the Ger- mans, and two other churches for the Finns and Swedes. Flax is the chief commodity exported from hence ; and a great quantity of fait is imported in return. Narva has frequently felt the calamities of war. When it was hardly prefied by the Ruffians in 1700, it was relieved by Charles XII. of Sweden ; who, with an army greatly inferior in number to that of the Ruffians, en- tirely defeated the latter with a very great flaughter, and raifed the liege. In the year 1704, it was again befieged by the Riiffians and carried by aflault; and fince that time it has been a part of the Ruffian dominions, but with the full enjoyment of all its former rights and privileges; the Rußvns only referving the right of appeal to the Senate at Peterfburg. Iii z ING E R~ 428 RUSSIA. IL INGERMANNLAND, In Latin Ingria ; Or the G o v e r n m e n t of PETERSBURG. A Map of this province is to be feen in M. Kirillow's Atlas, which ■*•*■ Hamanns heirs have copied, and in the year 1734, publifhed under the title of Ingermannlandia or Ingria. In the large Ruffian Atlas Ingria is included in the map of Livonia. It was called, formerly, Ingarien, from which the Latin name Ingria is derived. This province lies between the gulf of Filmland, Carelia, and Rußa properly fo called j and extends about thirty geographical miles in length, and its breadth is nearly equal to its length. This country is fertile, producing both corn and pafture ; and abounds in all kinds of game, particularly elks. Its principal rivers are the Luga, the Si/la, the Cowajfa, and the Newa or Neva. The laft has its fource in the Ladoga-hke, and is a broad, rapid, and navigable river. It runs through Peterjburg, where it divides itfelf into feveral branches or channels, particularly into the Great and Little Newa, and the Newka ; and after a courfe of fixty Werfls, or forty Englijh miles, dilcharges itfelf into the gulf of Finnland. There are fome villages and feveral brick-kilns along the banks of the Newa ; and oppofite to the village of Tofna many fawing-mills are erected On the Ingria fide, it receives the fmall rivers of Smolenßo, Slowianka, Izora, Cormina, 'Tofna, Mga, Moika, &c. and on that of Carelia, the rivulets Ockta, Singawina, Rybnaia, and Zernowka run into the Newa. The diftance from Narva to Petersburg is fevcn Poft-flages, or one hundred and forty-five Werjh. Formerly, whilft the Swedes were in pofieffion of Ingria, Lutheranifm was the only religion profefied in the country : but, at prefent, great num- bers of Ruffians, who are of the Greek religion, are mixed with the old inhabitants. In the year 1702, this province was recovered by the Ruffians, who were matters of it once before, even fo early as the thirteenth century ; but had been obliged to give it up to Sweden. It was confirmed to Ruffia with their other conquefts by the treaties of Nyfladt * and Abo, as I have men- tioned above. Ingria, at prefent conftitutes the Government of Peters- burg; and the moll remarkable places in it are as follows?. * See §. 12. p. 421, 422. Iwan- Ingermannland.] RUSSIA. 429 Iwangorod, or John's caftle, is a ftrong fort on the river Narva, clofe by the city of the fame name. A particular DiftricT: belongs to this caftle ; which was built in the year 1492, by the Great Duke Iwan Bajz/cwit?-; It ftands on a rock, and is furrounded with a treble wall, and feveral round baftions. It derives its name from the founder of it, and is alfo called Nariva in the Ruffian language. Iamburg, a fmall mean town with an ancient ftone-caftle on the river Luga. It gives name to the Iamburg Diftrict. Koporie is a fmall town built on an eminence in a pleafant country. In 1 61 2, it was taken by the Swedes, but recovered by the Ruffians in 1703. Kronßadt, a good town and admirable fortification, ftands on the illand of Retufari, which is about a geographical mile in length and one third of a mile in breadth, and is called by the Rußans, on account of its figure, Kotlinnoi-Oßroiv, or the • kettle-ifland.' Kronßadt lies in the gulph of Finn- land about eight leagues, by water, from Petersburg, and near two leagues from the coaft of Ingria. It was built by Peter I. who gave it the name of Kronfladt ; and near it, the fame enterprifing prince erected the ftrong fort of Kronfchlofi in 1703, in the winter feafon. Kronßadt is pretty large and regular in thofe parts which were firft built ; but the original plan was not entirely executed. The ftreets are broad ; but only fome parts of them are paved. The palace of Peter the Great, which was built with ftone, is now uninhabited, and, together with other handfome ftone edifices which ' make a grand appearance on the Ingria fide, is falling to decay. The other buildings in this town are but mean. Befides two principal and feveral de- pendent Rtißan churches, here is a fmall Lutheran church : But the E;?g/ijh congregation is no longer in being. The inhabitants of Kronßadt are a medley of all nations, confifting of failors, foldiers, and burghers ; and amount to about 20,000 fouls. The wall round the town has feveral great guns planted on it. It is likewife defended by the citadel and Kronfiblofi fort, which are at a fmall diftance from the town on the Ingria fide. Kronßadt has three harbours which are all large, fafe, and commodious : But the frefh water in the harbour, is very detrimental to the fhips. The harbour for merchantmen lies weftward and is very convenient ; but that for the fhips of war, in which the greateft part of the Ruß an fleet is laid up, lies to- wards the eaft. The powder magazine is erected in the water in this harbour. The middle harbour is for other fhips and yachts belonging to the Crown. This place Peter the Great intended to fit up for the repairing of his large men of war, by cutting a ftone canal of an extraordinary breadth and depth with feveral docks in it. But this great work was not compleated till the prefent reign. The canal alone is two Werfls and fifty fathoms in length ; and from the outward fluice of the dock to the fea is three hundred and ht Rußan, or four hundred and feventeen Eng/iß:, fathoms. The in it is railed to the depth of twenty-four feet by means of two large a« RUSSIA. [Ingermannland. large iluices. On the furface of the wate/, the canal when full is one hun- dred feet, and at the bottom from fifty-four to fixty-feven, in breadth ; .the outward and inward walls of the canal and the mole are hewn out of a rock. At the end of the canal is a deep bafon lined with flone, which interfeds the former at right angles, and is defigned for a refervoir of "the water of the canal, when the docks are to be cleared of it. This great and uleful work is not to be paralleled. At the firft opening of the canal in the year 1752, it received the name of Peter the firjl and the Great ; and at the mouth of it were erected two pyramids. On the north-fide of the iiland Retufari, towards Carelia, the water is lb lhallow as to be navigable only for fmall boats. Kj-onjchlcfs is a firong caftle built on a fand-bank in the fea, at the difiance of a cannon ihot from Kronfladt harbour, towards Ingria. It was erected by Peter I. as I obierved above, for the defence of his conquefts ; and fuch improvements have been added to it fince, that like Kron/ladt, it is iuftly called the bulwark of Petersburg. It is built in the form of a round tower with three galleries one above another ; and is well provided with cannon on every fide. All the fhips that fail to Petersburg are obliged to pais between this caftle and Kronjladt within reach of the cannon from both fides. Oramenbaum a fine palace fituated on the continent, near the gulf of Finnland, and directly oppolite to Ki-onßadt. It was built by Prince Menz- ßikow, and was afterwards converted into an hofpital for feamen ; but, at prefent, it is the fummer refidence of the Great Duke, to whom it belongs. Nothing can be more delightful than the garden adjoining to this feat. Peterhof an imperial feat on the coaft of Ingria, where the Emprefs ipends the fummer feafon. From the time of Peter I. no expence has been fpared in adding to the charming fituation of this palace all the embel- lishments of art. The houfe indeed cannot boaff. of any great regularity : But whoever views the elegance of the gardens which are adorned with fountains ejecting vaft columns of water to an extraordinary height, with the grotto's, double cafcades, pleafant groves, and many other admirable or- naments, will not think this place much inferior to the celebrated Verfailles. The palace flands on a hill which is about fixty feet high ; and on one fide it has a moft extenfive profpect, diverfified with noble objects ; namely, the city of Petersburg, Kronßadt, and the fea. Among the fummer houles be- longing to this palace one diftinguifhed by the name of Men plaifir, i. e. ' my delight,' is particularly remarkable for its curious paintings. Strelen-Hof, or Strelna-Mufa, is an imperial palace built in the water. Peter I. employed many thousands of men in erecting it ; for he defigned it for a fuperb palace, and a garden with a labyrinth and other embellilhments ; but his plan has not been completed to this day. Eli fabeth-Hoff, Annen-Hoff, and Catharine-Hoff are alfo imperial palaces or pleafure-houfes on the river Neva. The laft, which was the favourite re- fidence Ingermannlanci] RUSSIA. 431 fidenceof the Emprefs Catharine, confifts properly of two edifices, and ftand s in a wood, on one of the fineft fpots in the neighbourhood of Petersburg •" but its low fituation expofes it to frequent inundations. St. Petersburg, in Latin Pctropolis or Petroburgum, is one of the capitals and imperial refidences of the Ruß'an Empire. The beginning and increafe of this great city were very extraordinary ; for till the year 1703, the only build- ings on the fpot where this flourifhing metropolis now ftands, were two fmall filhing huts. But Peter the Great having in that year taken the town of Ny- enfehanze fcated on the river Neva, and made himfelf mafter of this coun- try ; its commodious fituation for the Baltic trade determined him to build a town and fortrefs here. He immediately began to put his project in execution, calling the town by his own name. At firft it was defigned only for a place of arms, to which all kinds of military ftores might be conveniently brought from the interior parts of the Empire ; io that by that means the war with Sweden might be carried on with more vigour and difpatch. At this time both the public edifices, and pri- vate houfes were built only with timber. The dock and the town had no other fortifications than a mean rampart of earth ; nor were the ftreets paved. In fhort, if the Czaar had been then deprived of the place, the lofs of it would not have been great. But the victory at Pultaiva and the conqueft of Livonia infpired Peter I. with hopes that he fhould be able to preferve his conquefts, and to render Petersburg the capital of his Empire. His fondnefs for maritime affairs, a defire of perpetuating his name, and his averfion to Mofcoiv, where in his younger years he had received fo much ill treatment, were the chief motives that induced him to lay the foundation of this new feat of Empire ; to which fome add another inducement, namely, the pleafure of mortifying the Rußans, who were fo ftrongly attached to the city of Mofcoiv. Upon this Peter I. ordered the caftle to be built with ftone, the Admi- ralty to be walled in with the fame materials, and all the buildings to be eredted in a handfomer and more durable manner, and gardens to be laid out. In the year 17 14, he removed the Council to Petersburg, and handfome edifices were erected, in a ftraight line, for the public offices ; which in 1 7 1 8 were alfo tranflated hither. The principal families likewife were ordered to make this their refidence, and build houfes according to their abilities. But all this occafioned an irregularity in the buildings ; for the fituation of the town was not precifely laid out till the year 1721. The nobility and burghers had been directed to build their houfes on the ifland of Petersburg; • and not a few buildings both public and private were, accordingly, erected there. But afterwards the Emperor determined, that the whole town fhould ftand on the ifland of Waßli-Oßrow. The ftreets were marked out ; canals were dug ; the ifland was to be fortified with fifty-feven baftions ; and the 432 RUSSIA. [Ingermannland. the nobility had their houfes to begin a fecond time. However, the death of the Czaar put a Hop to the execution of this plan ; and the ftone-build- ings which had been erected went to ruin. The reluctance of the Ruffian Nobility to fettle at Petersburg was no more than what was natural ; as they can neither live fo cheap nor fo corn- modioufly here as they did at Mofcoiv. The country about Petersburg is none of the moil: fertile ; fo that provisions are brought to that city from a great distance, and rauft be paid for in ready money ; which was no fmall grievance to the Nobility, who chiefly fubfifted on the produce of their eSlates, but feldom abounded in money. Befides, Mofco-w feemed much fitter for the imperial feat ; being in the centre of the Empire, from whence juStice might be more eafily adminiftred, and the national revenue be received and dif- burled with more conveniency and difpatch. Petersburg, befides other in- conveniences, feemed to them to lie too near the Swedijh frontiers. How- ever, this city in the time of Peter I. became large and fplendid ; and, under his fucceifors, received additional improvements ; fo that it is now ranked among the largeft and moft elegant cities in Europe. Petersburg lies partly on the continent in Ingria and Finnland among thick woods, and partly on feveral iflands formed by the branches of the Neva, in 59 degrees 57 minutes North Latitude. The low and fwampy foil on which it ftands has been considerably raifed with trunks of trees, earth, and Stone : Its Situation, however, is pleafant, and the air falu- brious. The city is about fix Engliß miles in length, and about as many in breadth ; and has neither gates nor a wall ; but is open, and fituated on feveral iflands. The river Neva is about eight hundred paces broad, near Petersburg, but has not every where a proportionate depth of water; fo that large merchant-fhips are cleared at Kronfladt : but the men of war, built at Petersburg, are conveyed to Kronßadt by means of certain machines called camels. This river divides itfelf into two main branches, called the Great and Little Neva, and feveral fmaller fireams. Befides the Neva, the rivers Fontanka and Moika contribute to form the large and fmall iflands on which the city ftands ; which is alfo watered by feveral canals. There is but one fingle bridge over the Neva, which is conftru&ed with large flat- bottomed boats, and joins the dock-yard to Baßli-Oßrow. The Praams, or lighters by which this bridge is fupported, are laid acrofs the river in Spring fo as to form a fafe and convenient paSfage : But in autumn, before the froft begins, they are always removed. The only communication between the other iflands, even in fummer, is either in boats or barks which croSs the water at Slated times : but bridges are built over the Moika and Fontanka, and likewife over the canals. The number of houfes at Petersburg are computed at 8000, about Six hundred of which are of Stone; but the reft are built with timber, and far 5 the Ingermannland.] RUSSIA. 433 the moft part, in an irregular manner after the Ruffian tafle. There are about twenty Ruff an churches in this city, befides four Lutheran church:- for the Germans, and feveral Calviniftical for the Swedes, Finns, Germ and French Proteftants; and other places of worfhip for the En Dutch, and Roman-Catholics. In defcribing this city more particularly, we (hall begin with 1 . Petcrsburg-ißand, which is formed by the Great and Little Neva and the Newka. Under this name we alio include the fmall illand on which the fort, which is in the middle of the Neva and alio of the city, ftands. This fort is of an hexagonal form, and built with ftone accord- ing to the modern improvements in fortification : It is planted with a great number of cannon, and additional works are continually made to it, which are all vaulted : the dungeons under it are chiefly made ufe or for prifons. In the middle of it Hands an elegant church, where the remains of Peter the Great, his confort Catharine, and leveral other per- fonages of that illuftrious family are depofited in very magnificent mau- foleums. In the high beautiful tower belonging to this church, the ipire of which is covered with gilt copper, hangs a fine fet of bells, with chimes made in Holland, which play twice in four-and-twenty hours at twelve of the clock. On one of the baftions of this fort facing the imperial palace, a flag is always hung out according to the cuftom in Holland; which, on ftate-holydays, is exchanged for a finer with the Ruffian Eagle on it. On the fame baflion alio, when the Neva is not frozen, a great gun is fired at the rifing and letting of the fun, as a fignal for the failors. As this fort ftands in the centre of the town, it is not only a defence, but a very great ornament to it. It ferves alfo for a fecure priibn ; and, on an exi- gency, may prove a convenient afylum to the Sovereign. On ftate-holy- days the baftions and curtains of this fort are finely illuminated with lamps. On the illand of Petersburg, properly fo called, is a horn-work belonging to the caftle. This ifland is above two leagues in circumference, and is extremely well peopled ; but moft of the houfes are meanly built ; and the five Rujfian churches, the fhambles, inns, and corn-market have nothing that deferves notice. On this ifland is ftill to be feen the fmall wooden houfe which Peter the Great ordered to be built, and lived in, the firft time he arrived on the fpot where, at prefent, this luperb city ftands ; and that it may remain as a lafting monument of that circumftance, it is inclofed within a ftone- wall, and has been covered with a new roof. This ifland is feparated, by the Carvoivka, from another called the /Ipotlc- caries-J/land, which is about five or fix E??gliß) miles in circumference, and contains about two hundred houfes, befides the large phyfic garden where- all kinds of European and Aßatic plants, roots and trees, with proper green- houies, &c. are to be feen. The other part of this ifland confifts of a pleaiant wood. From the ifland of Old-Petersburg you crois the Little-Neva, and come to Vol. I. Kkk 2. The 434 RUSSIA. [Ingermannland. 2. The ifland of Wafiti-Oflrow, or ' Baß's tßandl which is the largeft of all thefe iflands. It is environed by the Great and Little Neva, and lies towards Kronfladt. The greateft part of it is covered with woods, and the reft with buildings. It has twelve broad ftreets running in a direct line, and of an uncommon length. They are called the Lines, and diftinguiftied by numbers ; they are alfo interfeded at right angles by fix erofs ftreets ; but are not paved. The vifta's through thefe ftreets are very broad and beautiful at both extremities. The largeft extends the whole length of the ifland as far as the galley-harbour; but the (mailed: is not fo long. Several large canals are cut through this ifland, particularly at the places where the buildings ftand ; but moft of them being now gone to decay, are little better than morafles. Oppofite to Peter/burg ifland, and adjoining to the hemp warehoufe, are the Ex- change, the Cuftom-houfe, the Pack-houfe, and the Key where the mer- chants ftiips unload. Contiguous to thefe are feveral large ftone-buildings belonging to the Imperial Academy of Sciences, which was founded in 1724 by Peter I. and endowed with a yearly revenue of 24,912 Rubels. That Monarch alfo intended to ered: an Academy of the Polite Arts ; but as eftimates of the neceilary charges of fuch an inftitution have not yet been made, the prefent Emprefs Elizabeth was pleafed to augment the above-mentioned endowment to 53,298 Rubels. The Academy is divided into two clafles; the firft conftituting the Academy, properly fo called, and the fecond the University. The members of the former are employed only in finding out new inventions, or in improving the difcoveries of others. They are properly ftiled Aca- demic i ; but are commonly called ProfeJJbrcs. They are under no obli- gation to inftrud youth, unlefs particular pupils are recommended to them, or they do it voluntarily for their own advantage. This Academy is again divided into four clafles: Namely, 1. The Aftronomical and Geo- graphical Oafs. 2. The Phyfical Clafs, whofe province it is to make im- provements in Botany, Anatomy, and Chymiftry. 3. The Phyfico-Ma- thematical Clafs, who ftudy Mechanics, civil and military Architec- ture, and Experimental Philofophy. 4. The Higher Mathematical Clafs, who folve queftions and problems propofed by the other Clafles, and like- wile fuch as are received from foreign parts. Beiides the ten Ordinary Members, the Academy has ten foreign Extraordinary Members, to whom, for the trouble they are fometimes put to in elucidating difficult and im- portant queftions fent them by the Academy, a peniion is allowed, which is not to exceed two hundred Rubels. Every Academician has an Adjunc- ts, who is under his care, and fucceeds him in his place. The Aca- demy is governed by a Prefident, but in fuch a manner, that every thing is tranfadted under the aufpices and direction of her Imperial Majefty. The Prefident, at this time, is Count Kirila Grigoriiewitjk Rafumoujki or Cvrillus Ingermannland.] RUSSIA. Cyrilhis Grogorides, Hcttmann of the Cofaks. By the Statutes of the Academy three folemn meetings are to be held every year ; and at each of thofe public affemblies a Latin and a Ruffian diflertation are to be read. The University has its particular Profeflbrs who read lectures in the Sciences both in the Latin and Ruffian languages. Difference of religion does not difqualify a perfon for being a Profellbr; but they are injoined not to inculcate to their pupils any thing contrary to the 1 doctrines of the Greek church. The (Indents are inftru&ed in Poetry, Greek and Latin, Arith- metic, Drawing, Geometry and other branches of the Mathematics, civil and ecclefiaftical Hiftory, Genealogy and Heraldry, Philofophy, and Antiquity : But every pupil is not inftructed in all thefe feveral fciences ; nor are youth of mean circumftances admitted into the Univerfity. In the year 1750, the number of ftudents amounted to thirty ; who were fent hither from different convents, and lived in one houfe together under the inflection of a Profeflbr. The college defigned for the Academy, which ftands fomething lower, was deftroyed by fire in 1747, and has not yet been rebuilt. In the buildings which belong to the Academy are 1. The Imperial library, which, as appears by the catalogue publifhed in the year 1742, in three Volumes Svo. contains 2699 folios, 3410 quartos, 8078 oBaroos and duodecimos; amounting in all to 14,187 volumes, befides 282 Ruffian manufcripts. 2. The fine Mufeum, containing natural and artificial curiofities, with a collection of phyfical, mathematical, and other inftruments. 3. The Printing-houfe. 4. The Bookfeller's fhop. 5. The apartment for Book-binding. 6. Another for Letter-founding. 7. The Engraving apartment. 8. The Painting Academy. 9. The room where mathematical inftruments are made. The famous copper-globe of Gottorp, which flood on the tower of the Academy, was almoft totally confumed by fire, along with the tower, in 1747 ; but has been repaired at a great ex- pence, and with admirable fkill. You afcend a few fteps, and enter into the Globe through a fmall door. Within ftands a table with benches round it, on which twelve perfons may conveniently fit, and be turned round with the celeftial globe, the outfide of which is the terrcftrial globe. The diameter of it is eleven feet: It was brought hither, in 1714, from Gottorp at a great expence ; and at prefent ftands in aftone edifice by itfelf, having been firft repaired and beautified, and rendered more accurate than before by new improvements. The Gymnaßum and Seminarium alio belong to the Univerfity. The next remarkable place in order is the Theatrum Pyrotechnicum, or the J Fire-work Theatre,' which is built on piles in the Neva t oppofite to the imperial Winter-Palace, Here is a very long ftone-building appro- priated for the State-colleges and offices. Juft beyond thefe ftands the fpacious and elegant ftructure, which was • formerly Prince Menfhil palace, but now the. Academy of the corps of Cadets of noble families, Kkk 2 to 435 436 RUSSIA. [Ingermannland. to which confiderable additions have been made ; but it ftill wants a left wing. By the advice of the Field-Marfhal Count Munich, the Emprefs Anne, in the year 1731, i lined out a proclamation inviting all the young nobility, and officers fons, of Rußa and Livonia to repair to Petersburg, where they fhould be educated gratis according to their rank, &c. Purfuant to this ordinance, in the beginning of the year 1732, they made their appearance at Petersburg; and the above-mentioned palace was affigned for their dwell- ing. At that time the number of Ruffian Cadets on this foundation was to be two hundred and forty, and of the Germans one hundred and twenty ; which number was then indeed complete, belides fome fupernumeraries. But it is now no longer fo, efpecially with refpect to German Cadets; as, of late years, they have been obliged to engage, That they will never quit the Ruffian dominions, nor enter into foreign fervice. Three, four, five, feven, eight or even ten Germans and Ruffians intermixed together lodge in one apartment, under the infpeclion ot a fubaltern, or one of the fenior Cadets, as a monitor. At dinner they have three, and at fupper two dilhes ferved up ; a captain and a lieutenant being always prefent. They form three companies, each of which ought to confilt of one hundred and twenty perfons. Their prefent Director or Governor in chief is Prince lujjopo-w. Next to him is the CommaJideur, who is a Lieutenant-Colonel; and under him is the Major. Every company has a Captain, a Lieutenant- Captain, a firft and fecond Lieutenant, Enlign, Serjeant-major, two Ser- jeants, a Capitaine i 'Armee, a Quarter-mafter, a Vice-Enfign, four Cor- porals, and eight Exempts. The fubaltern officers are felecled from among the Cadets ; and fometimes even the field-officers. Formerly, they ufed to be employed during the whole fummer-feafon in the exercife of arms : but at prefent they are exercifed in June and part of July-, and that not after the Prußan manner as heretofore, but according to the Ruffian difcipline on foot. They are divided into Granadiers, of which there are but few, and Mufqueteers. Every four hours twelve men and three Grana- diers with a Serjeant, Corporal, and Exempt mount guard. They have two fuits of clothes once in two years, one for every day, and the other to wear when they are on duty. Their uniform confifts of green, and ftraw-coloured wafte-coats; and the coats they wear on duty are embelüihed with a narrow gold-lace. They are alfo allowed two laced-hats, the one for duty and the other to wear every day ; three half-upper Ihirts trimmed with lawn at the bofoms, three pair of ruffled fleeves, three cravats, three under-fhirts, two pair of fpatter-dafhes once in two years, and every year three pair of fhoes. Their hours for inftrudtion are, in the morning, from feven to eleven, and in the afternoon from two to fix; they arc taught in dalles the Ruffian, German, French, and Latin languages, with the following fciences, namely, Mathematics, Hiftory, Geography, Ethics, Politics-, Ingermannknd.] RUSSIA. 437 Politics, Logic, Civil Law; and likewife dancing, fencing, riding, drawing, and other genteel exercifes. According to the original plan, their education was to he Intruded to three Profeflbrs of Law, Mathematics, Hiftory and the Ruffian language j four Adjunffi or afliftants, and twenty-four maflu ; but fome of thefe places are now vacant. There are alfo a riding-mafter and his afiiftant, an equerry and four grooms, with a flud of feventy or eighty horfes maintained on this foundation. The Ruffian Cadets have their particular church with two Priefts, two Lecturers, one Deacon, and two Sextons ; and the Germans have a Preacher, a Chanter, and a Sexton, witli a church let apart for them ; which is alio frequented by many other Lutherans from the city. Divine Service is performed in both churches morning and evening ; and the Ruffian Popes or Priefts generally preach a fermon. None are admitted into this corps under twelve years of age ; and every Cadet, according to the ftatutes, is to continue there five or fix years : But feveral of them do not flay Co long, and others continue longer in the Academy. Some of thefe young perfons who are defigned for civil employments are termed fhidents, and are not inftrucled in any military exercifes. The others, at their dilmiffion, are diftributed among the regiments, the Cadets as Enligns ; the Corporals as fecond Lieutenants ; the Serjeants as Serjeants-major ; and the Enfigns as firft Lieutenants. This corps is under the controul of the Council of State and the Senate ; and the annual expence of this foundation amounts to 65,000 Rubels. The falary of the Governor in chief is 1000 Rudels; that of the Colonel 1500, and that of the Major 700 Rubels ; and the reft in proportion. The Pro- felfors and Mafters have apartments gratis in the houfe, to which a very fine garden alfo belongs. Near this Academy is the bridge of boats over the Neva ; and not far from the latter is the Academy for three hundred and fixty Sea-Cadets. Befides a Ruffian church, and the above-mentioned Lutheran church for the Cadets ; there is alfo in the ftreet called the Third-Line a Get-man Lu- theran church, which has the appearance of a private houfe, and the Preacher lives in it. On this ifland of Bafil are likewife two Ruffian parith churches and a fugar-houfe. The galley-harbour lies a little lower down towards Kronßadt. In failing up the Neva from Kronßadt, one fees on the Waßli-Oßroiv, which lies to the left, a very long row of near fifty elegant ftone-palaces, built by the Ruffian Nobility, in the Italian tafte, extending itfelf on the bank of the river almoft as far as the Cadet- Academy ; but moft of them are now empty and falling to decay. On the right-hand is 3. The Admiralty-Side, or Admiralty-Ifland, which is environed by the Neva and the river Fontanka ; and from this ifland the bridge of boats is laid in the fummer to Wafili-Ofirow or Ba/ils ifland. There is alfo a watch tower erected at the mouth of the Neva between thefe two illands. This is the moft magnificent part of the city. A. parchment-manufactory, the Admiralty- 438 RUSSIA. [Ingermannland. Admiralty-Viäualing-Ofiice, the Galley-dock where all the galleys are built, and the vaft timber ftorehoufes for fhip-building lie on this ifland. Here are alfo a great number of handlbme ftone-houfes and elegant palaces, along the river fide, reaching almoft to the bridge of boats. The Englijb factory have their place of worfhip in this part , and behind it, is Neiv- Holland, with the rope-walk. The Admiralty, or Dock-yard, is fortified with a wall, and five baitions planted with a great many guns ; and all fhips at coming into the harbour falute it. There are always fome men of war on the flocks in this yard. The top of the tower belonging to the Ad- miralty is gilt in the fame manner as that of the great church in the caftle. Near this place is the imperial Winter-Palace, which is a large fquare building of three ftorics high; but the architecture is not extraordinary. Behind it in a fpacious area itands a noble equeftrian ftatue of gilt brafs, erected in honour of Peter I. Adjoining to this, along the banks of the Neva, are feveral other palaces, among which is the old imperial Winter-Palace, feveral elegant ftone buildings, the new Play-houle which is built with timber ; and the delightful imperial Summer-Palace which is alfo of wood, but one ftory high, and looks onlv like a pleafure-houfe. Behind this palace are feveral ftone- buildings for the officers, &c. belonging to the court. It has a very fine orangery, and a beautiful large garden ornamented with a moft admirable grotto, fountains and other water-works, and a great number of valuable marble and alabafter ftatues brought from Italy ; but they are not all of them equally well executed. Two of thefe ftatues which ftand near the grotto, reprefenting Religion and Faith, are greatly admired by the connoiffeurs for the appearance of the faces through thin tranfparent veils, which feem to cover them. This garden is alfo famous for a pleafant grove of oaks ; which has not its equal in all the Ruffian Empire. The dock affords a double vifta, one to the Ruffian church of the Afcenfion ; the other is ter- minated by the Convent of Alexander Ncwßi. The elegant buildings on both fides of the river Fontanka alfo make a moft beautiful appearance from hence. The ftreets that lie behind the Admiralty, and along the fields be- hifid the imperial Summer-Palace, are very grand and magnificent; but thefe are equalled, if not excelled by the Great and Little Morjkoi and the Million- Street, which are embellifbed with the moft fuperb buildings. At the end of the Million-Street, near the garden of the Summer-Palace, the Emperor has a curious dilpenfary. In this part alio lie the imperial ftables, and the dwell- ings of the Officers belonging to them ; the church of the Siaedijh Finns; the German Lutherans church, dedicated to St. Peter, which is an elegant 1 cture and the chief of the pioteitant ecclefiaftical buildings ; the church of the German and French Calvin iits ; the ihops, which to the number of one hundred lie in a ftraight line, and forma vifta (no merchant being allowed t 1 have a mop in his houfe) where all forts of goods are to be lold ; and laftly, two market-places full of fhops, near which are the menagery, the park, and the elephant-yard where feveral of thole animals arc kept. 4. The Ingermannland.] RUSSIA. 4.3 a 4. The Mofcovite-Side, which is properly the city, is on the continent ; and part of it is very well built. In this quarter are the following places of note : The private dock ; the Court-Victualling-Oirice ; the foundery on the Neva, in which great numbers of mortars and cannon are caft; the fire-work elaboratory ; the aqueduct which fupplies the fountains in the Emperor's garden ; the German Lutheran church dedicated to St. Anne ; three Rujjian churches; the pheafant-houle ; the Italian Garden j the Mufcovite lemjkoi; the Convent of St. Alexander Neio/ki, of which a particular account fhall be given in the fequel ; and the barracks for the horfc-guards, together with the itables for their horfes. 5. Latlly, on the Wibourg-Side, as it is called, arc the following remark- able places : St. Samfiris church, and the Ruffian and German burial-places ; the fugar-houfe ; the land and fea-hofpital ; the hofpital-church ; the beer- brewers quarter ; the Dutch beer brew-houfc ; a rope-walk ; the fuburb called Sloboda Kofatfchia ; a nurfery of young oaks ; great Ockta-, a Rußian church ; the ruins of a fort called Nienfchanz, which was taken and demo- lifhed in 1 703 by Peter I. and little Ockta. There is a great variety of curious manufactures in this city; as that of looking-glafTes, gold and filver works, tapeftry, &c. Its extenfive commerce alfo adds a great importance to Petersburg ; for a vaft number of fhips from all maritime countries frequent this port, as the mart for buying all Rujjian commodities ; and find a vent for all the goods they import, and for which there is a demand in Rußa. The inhabitants of this large city, befides Rußans, confiit of all nations ; fo that a perfon hears a great variety of languages, and fees an infinite diverfity of falhions and cuiloms at Petersburg. The burghers or citizens, properly lb called, do not exceed two hundred ; but the town contains above 1 00,000 Souls. The fplendor of the Court is imitated by the inha- bitants in general ; though every thing belonging to apparel, and efpecially if it be made by foreign artificers is very dear ; and likewile furniture, and houfes in a good fituation bear, fometimes, a very high price in this city. On die other hand, provifions (wine, lemons, oranges and fome other foreign particu- lars excepted) are fold here very cheap, and in winter are brought hither in great abundance from the diflance of feveral hundred miles. The morals of the inhabitants, as in all large cities, are very much cor- rupted and depraved. The fupicious vigilance of the Ruffian government renders it necefiary for a ffranger to be very circumfpect in his words and behaviour : However foreigners, who are very numerous here, enjoy all poilible liberty of confeience, as long as they do not fay any thing againit the Greek religion. When a perfon intends to fet out from hence in order to quit the countrv, he mull be furnifhed with a Pafs, and advertife his name and intention of travelling in the news-papers. No iboner is the winter fet in, than near 3000 440 RUSSIA. [Ingermannland. 3000 Ruß ans repair with their fledges to Petersburg, where they ftand in every ftreet, and are fo cheap and convenient that few go on foot even ahout the town. A fledge and a horfe may be hired for ten Copeiks * an hour ; and within that time this carriage will go about feven or eight Englijh miles, the horfe continually galloping. Every Ißvoßiek, or driver, is marked with a certain number on his back. It is fufficient for a firanger to know the place or the houfe where he is to go, and three or four Ruffian words ; as Stupai, drive on ; Stoy, flop ; Pramo, ftraight on ; Na prava to the right ; Na leva to the left ; and the driver will carry him fafe. Moft houfe-keepers have their own fledges and horfes ; and perfons of diflinclion have alfo their poftillion. In fummer-time thofe who are not inclined to go on foot in this extenfive city, either make ufe of their own carriage, which is almofl of abfolute necefiity here, or elfe hire curricles or boats. The police of this city is good, and flriclly executed. There are few places where fo many great guns are fired, for diverfion, as at Petersburg. A fouth-weft wind in autumn frequently occafions an inundation here: thofe which happened in 1721, 1726, 1736, and 1752 did very great damage, to this city. The convent of St. Alexander Neiijki lies about five Werßs from the caftle, on the river Neva ; and was built in honour of that pious Prince in the form of an eagle, but is not yet compleated. It contains above two hun- dred apartments. In the middle of the building flands a very large and beautiful church, which reprefents the eagle's body ; the two towers, its neck and head ; the fpire, the Imperial Crown ; and the two fmall churches on each fide, the two wings. In this convent are depofited the pretended remains of that Saint, for which the prefent Emprefs Elifabetb ordered a iilver fhrine to be made, which lies on a fuperb monument covered with filver plates of a confiderable thicknefs. Sarfioe-Selo is a pleafant imperial palace about thrity Werßs from Peters- burg, with a park and a garden. In the hermitage is a table, which by fcrews may be railed up into the apartment above, and let down again, at pkafure. Pofad is a mean little town at the entrance of the Ladoga canal ; near which, on a fmall ifland in the Neva, is another imperial palace. Schlißelburg, a ftrong fort, flands on a fmall ifland in the middle of the Neva, juit where it runs out of the Ladoga-lake, and commands both fliores. It was formerly called Orejhek, or Oreckoiaitz ; and in the Sivedifh language, Notteburg, from the form of the ifland whereon it flands, which refembles a nut. But Peter the Great having made himfelf mafler of it in the year 1702, changed the name of this fort to Schluß'elburg ; that monarch efteeming it the key [Schlußl] of his conquefts. Its walls are two fathoms and a half thick, and built in the old manner. In one angle of this fort is a fmall flrong caftle. The Rußans have improved this fort both * About five-pence fterüng. 4 within Wiburg.] RUSSIA. within and without, and added new works to it. It has undergone many fieges ; and when Peter I. took it in 1702, he ordered two medals to be (truck in commemoration of his fuccefs. On one of them is the following ihfcriptioh : Notteburgum nunc, Schhtßclburgum pofl annos XC ah hofie recupcra!um. Aftum d. 12 Otfob. f. v. MDCCII. ' Notteburg, now called Schulejjclburg, recovered from the enemy, after c ninety years poilelfion, on the twelfth of Ot'hber 1702.' III. The late acquifitions in C A R E L 1 A y Or die Gov e r n m e n t of W I B U R G. / npHIS province includes part of the Great Dutchy of Finnland, which was ■*• ceded to Rujfia by the Swedes, and confifts of, i. Part of Finnlandish-Carelia. Care/ia has often been a bone of contention between Sweden and Rujfia. In the year 1293, it fell under the Swedijh dominion; but in 1338, part of it was yielded up to RuJJia. By the peace of NJladt concluded in 1721, a mil greater part of this country was refigned to the Rujfians ; the weitem part only being left in the pofierlion of the Swedes. After this Sweden was obliged to give up, by the treaty of Abo, the fort of Frederickjhamn and Wilmannßrand, with part of the parirti of Pythis, which lies on the other fide of the eaftern branch of the river Kymmene. In this part of Carclia are the following places of note. Suflerbeck, which lies on the gulf of Finnland, is remarkable both for the excellency, largenefs, and contrivance of its manufactories of mufkets, fwords, and iron utenfils. The greateft part of the arms of the Ruffian forces are caft or forged in this place. JViborg, by the Finnlanders called Somelinde, was formerly the capital of all Carclia, a Bifhop's See, and the bulwark of Sweden againit Rujfia. It is lltuated on the fea, and carries on a confiderable trade. Peter the Great having taken this town by capitulation in the year 17 10, improved its fortifications ; which have ever fince been kept in fuch good condition, that Wiborg may now be looked on as the bulwark of Ruf/ia againft. Sweden. This city was built in the year 1293, and has often fuffered by fire. Willmannjlrand Hands on the Sairaa-hke, and is called in the Finnean- • language Lappi Weffi, i. e. ' Lapp-water.' It had formerly the name of Lap- ßrand and was only a market-place ; but was afterwards made a town : however, it has no magiftrate of its own, but is dependent on Frederick- jhamn. It was alio a confiderable mart for tar, and the refidence of a Vol. I. L 1 l Swedfö 441 44 2 RUSSIA. [Wiburg. Surdijh Governor. On the twenty-third of Augufl 1741, an obftinate battle was fought about an Englißj mile from this town between 3000 Swedes and 16,000 Ruffians; but at lafl the former were obliged to yield to fuperiority of numbers. The Ruffians, having gained the vi&ory, burnt Willmannflrand y which before was fortified with a moat and wall ; but it has fince been re- built. Frederickßatrm, in Latin Frederic! Portus, lies on the gulf of Finnland, on the fpot where the town of Wekelax, which was burnt by the Ruffians in 17 12, formerly ftood. In the year 1723 this town was endowed with a charter, and governed by two burgomafters : it had alio a good harbour, and a coniiderable trade in tar ; and was fortified by a caflle built in 1722. But in the laft war between the Swedes and Ruffians, it was burnt to the ground and ceded to the latter. By the peace of Nyfiadt the limits betwixt the Swediflj and Ruffian Carelia were fixed near this place. 2. Part of Kexholm. This country anciently belonged to Rußa ; and, indeed, was wrefted from them, in 1293 and 1580, by the Swedes-, but foon after recovered. The Czaar Waßlei Iwanowitz Shuißi promifed it to King Charles IX. in conside- ration of the affiftance he gave him ; but the Czaar did not keep his word. Gußavus Adolphus revenged this affront, and compelled the Czaar Michael Feoderowitz to refign this country to him at the peace of Stolbow. In 172 1, the fouthern and beft part of it, together with the fortrefs of Kex- holm, was reftored to Rußa by the treaty of Nyfiadt. The moft remarkable place in it is Kexholm or Calerogorcd, i. e. c the fortrefs of Carelia,' which is a flrong town ; but the buildings are all of wood. It ftands on two fmall iflands at the influx of the river Woxen into the lake of Ladoga. The town is built on one of thefe iflands, and the caflle on the other. 3. A Part of Sawolax, Yielded up to Rußa, by the treaty of Abo, in 1743. It confifts of the town of Nyßot and a diftricl: of two miles round it. Nyßot, in Latin Arx Nova, and in the Finnean-hngmge called Sawo- tinna, lies on the Saima-hke, and was built in 1745. Its caflle which ftands on a rock in a river near the town, and from which the latter derives its name, is extremely well fortified both by art and nature. In the year 1495, it baffled the attempts of Rußa ; but in 17 14 was obliged to fubmit to their arms. It was reftored to the Swedes at the peace of Nyfiadt -, but they were obliged to give it up to the Rußians by the treaty of Abo. In the next place, we are to give an account of The Provinces which have always made a part of Russia. Thefe are is follows. I. The RUSSIA. I. The Government of N O H r O G R D. 'T"" s HIS Government includes the Dutchy of Nowogrod, or the ifland of ■*■ Great Nowogrod, which the Ruf/ians conquered in the year 147H. In this country lies the Ofcro-Ihnen, or Jl/nen-hke, from which the river Wolcow runs ; and thofe great rivers called the Wolga, Dneiper, and the Polijh Dwina have alio their fources in this province. Peter the Great ordered a canal to be cut between the rivers Twerza and M/ia, near the town of Wifchni Wo~ lotjhok ; ib that, at prefent, there is a communication between the Cafpian- Sea, (along the rivers Wolga, Iwerza, and Mßa,) and the Ihuen-läke ; and from thence there is a pafTage for veflels along the river Wolcow into the Ladoga-hke ; and from the latter down the Neva into the Baltic. This Government includes the following Circles or Diftricls. 1 . The Circle of Nowogrod, called by the Ruffians Nowogorodjkoi Uiezd. In this Diftricl are the following remarkable places. Nowogrod Weliki, or Great Nowogrod, in Latin Novcgardia or Ncapolis magna, is a very ancient, large and celebrated city, fituated on the river Wolcow, juft where it runs out of the ///«tvz-lake. It is a place of confider- able trade, and the feat of a Governor. It was firft built in the ninth century by the Sclavonians ; and improved by Rurik, a Waregerian Prince, for his place of refidence. Nowogrod was a famous ftaple of the Hanfc-towns till j 494 ; and grew fo powerful as to give occalion to a phrafe, ' Can any body withiland God and Nowogrod V But by frequently falling into the hands of the enemv, and the many conflagrations which from time to time have happened in this town, it is ib far reduced, that fcarce any marks of its former grandeur now remain. The churches and convents are the only objects worthy of notice ; the reft of the town confifting of fmall wooden houfes. It is however, an Archbifhop's See. The fortifications connft of old walls and deep moats. The old Ruffian writers call this city Holmgardc. St. Antony ?> convent lies on the river Wolcow about two Werjis from Novo- grod, and is the principal monaftery in the country. St. Antony, the founder of it died, and was buried here in 1 147. Befides his monument, here is (hewn a mill-ftone on which, as his votaries gravely affert, he failed from Rome to this place, and feme other curiofities of the fame nature. Siaraia Ladoga, or old Ladoga, is a fmall town on the river Wblcpw confifting of about fifty houfes, with two churches and the ruins of a caftle. It was, indeed, formerly a large city, and the firft refidence of Rurik Prince of RuJJia ; but when the canal of Ladoga was made, it gradually fell to decay. L 1 1 2 Ncwaia 443 444 RUSSIA. [Nowogrod. Nowaia Ladoga, or New Ladoga, lies between the lake of Ladoga, and the canal of that name which here joins the river Wolcow. This fmall town was peopled from Old Ladoga for the mod part, and is the refidence of a Waiwode. Wiijhnei Wolotß:ok, a confiderable village on the river Twerza, inhabited by fea-faring people. It was coniumed by fire in the years 1748 and 1753. Here the Twerza and Mßa are joined together by a canal. Sfaraia Rtiffa, a fmall town, but famous for its falt-works. Tikfitißoi Pojad, a convent fituated on the river Tikfrna. Stolbowa, a village near the 'Tikfina, where, in the year 1617, a peace was concluded betwixt Rujfia and Sweden. Olonetz, a town on the river Olonia, to which belongs a large territory, In this town are an iron-work, and a forge. Petrowßoi Sawed, an iron work. Powenetz, a large village. Wygow/kie Mednie Sawodi, an iron work on the river Wiig. Porkow, a town fituated on the river Shelona. Waldai, a large market town. Cotilaw, a poft-ftage. This is remarkable for being the place where the Great Duke Peter Feodorowitz lay ill of the fmall pox in 1745, and happily recovered of that "dangerous diftemper. 2. The Province of Pleskow. Places of note in this province are, PJ&ow or Ple/kow, a ftrong provincial town which lies on the river Welika: It is a Bifhop's See, and a place of great trade; and confequently k very popu- lus. In the year 1581, it held out a fiege againft the Poles. Ißorß, an ancient town with a caftle of the fame name. Petjherßoi, a convent famous in hiftory for having been frequently befieged by the Livonian knights. It is fo called from the fubterraneous paflages near it, which, it is faid, have a communication with thofe of Kiew. Kobylie was formerly a town on the Peipus-\a.ke, and on account of its having been often demolifiied it had the name of Gcroditjhe. Here are ftill iome inhabitants. Gdow a town in this neighbourhood. OJlrow, a fmall town, flands on an ifland in the river Welika, and has z. Diftridt belonging to it. Wyßjegorod, Wrew, Wybor, Wolodimeritz and Dubkow or Dubiow, fmall towns dependent on OJlrow. Opotjha, a fmall town lying on an ifland in the river Welika, to which the little towns of Krajhoi, Welie and Woronetßj are fubjedt. Rß:ewa Pußaia, or Sawolotßic, is immediately dependant on Plefiowl This town flands on an ifland formed by the river Welika, 3. The Nowogrod.] RUSSIA. 3. The Province of Welikoluk, called in the Rußan langnage Welt- koluzkaia Provinciia. Places of note in this province are, Welikie Litki, a provincial town, which gives title to the Archbifhop of Novogrod. Colm, a little town on the river Loivat, to which a particular Diflrict be- longs. Tropetz, a town of good trade on the river Toropa. 4. The Province of Twer. Remarkable places in this Province are, Ticer, the provincial town, which lies on both fides of the Wolga, at the influx of the river Twerza. It is a large town, having feventy churches and convents, and carries on a confiderablc trade in corn. It is at pre lent an Archbilhop's See ; and formerly was the residence of feveral Great Dukes- and Princes. Near the town ftands a caftlc on an eminence. Torß:ok, a pretty large town furrounded with walls on the river Twerza. Stariza, Subzaw, and Rßjewa Wohdömerenva are towns which lie on the banks of the Wolga. Oßaßkow and Pogoreloe Goroditfdv were formerly towns, but now little better than villages. Kraßwi, Cholm, and Mikulin on the river Shoßja were alio formerly con- siderable towns ; particularly Cholm, which was the relidence of the Sovereign of the country, who was defcended from the royal family of Twer. A Mikklin of a particular line of the fame family alio refided here. 5. The Province of Belosero, called in the Rußan language Beloferskaia- Provinciia. This Province formerly had its own Princes, being an appenage of the Great Ducal family. In this Province are, the lakes of Beloßero, i. e. the ' White Lake,' which is fifty Werßs in length, Woß:e-Ofero, and Latfha- Ofero. In this province are the following places of note. Beld/ero, the provincial town, lies on the welt fide of the lake of that name. It contains about five hundred dwellings, and eighteen churches. Here is a caftle of a quadrangular form, incloled with a wall of earth ; and within which are two churches, the Archbilhop's palace, the revenue offices, the Waiwode's houfe and other buildings. In the year of Chrift 862, when Si/ieits, a Waregerian Prince, prefided at Beloßro, the city is faid to have flood on the north fide of the lake. About a Werfi and a half from this city, on the banks of the river Shopna, lies Iamskaia-Sloboda, and a monaftery. Slowianskoi or Slowinskoi JFolok, is a- fmall town or village. Tßaharonda, a town lying on the weft fide of the lake Woße Ofero-. Ußiußma Shelefopohkaia is a town on the river Mo/oga, in which is a conliderable iron foundery, II. The- 445 44.6 RUSSIA. II. The Government of ARCHANGEL, Called in the Ruffian Language Archangelagorodskaia Guberniia. A T*' HIS Government includes a part of Lapland, of which country we -"- have given a fufficient account in treating of Sweden. As great numbers of the people called Samoiedes live in this Government, they are not to be entirely paffed over in filence. The Samoiedes inhabit the coaft of the Northern Ocean and Ice Sea, both in Europe and Slfia. The word Samoiad is faid to fignify ' Man-eater ;' for it was erroneoufly ima- gined that thefe people devoured their deceafed friends and the prifoners taken in war : but their cuftom of eating filh and the flefh of animals raw muff have given occafion to this report. The Samoiedes, that live in the Government of Archangel, are quite feparated from the reff of that nation ; and, as it were, excluded from any intercourfe with them : They have alfo a different language ; however, as to religion and cuftoms, they entirely correfpond. They are very poor, fimple, and undefigning. Their ftature is low ; and their feet, efpecially thole of the females, are remark- ably fmall. Their tawny complexion, longifh eyes, and puffed cheeks make them appear very difagreeable to ftrangers. Their winter drefs is made of rein-deer fkin with the hairy fide out- wards ; and generally the cap, coat, gloves, breeches, and flockings are fewed together ; fo that the whole fuit makes but one piece. In fum- mer they drefs themfelves in fifh-fkins ; and inffead of thread ufe the nerves of wild beaffs cut into long filaments. They all fubfift by hunting andfifhing; the flefh of rein-deer, bears, feals or fea-dogs, fowls, dried flfh, and turneps being their ufüal food. The flefh they eat partly raw and partly boiled. Their hunting weapons are bows and arrows, and javelins, the points of which are of bone ; they have alfo fome darts bearded with iron. When they find it dif- ficult to fubfift in one place, they immediately remove to another. Their fummer huts are made of nothing but the bark of birch-trees ; but in winter they are covered with the fkins of rein-deer. Their whole fub- ftance conlills in tents, clothes, and rein-deer. Both Sexes among them wear the fame kind of drefs ; and as they are equally difagreeable in their features, it is not an eafy matter to difhnguifh one from the other. 4 Their Archangel.] R U S S S I A. Their marriages are attended with no other ceremony but merely an agreement between the parties. Moft of them have but one wife-, thou polygamy is not prohibited among diis people. The Samoiedes, like the Oßiaks, call their new-born children by the name of the firft animal they meet ; or if they firft happen to meet a relation, he generally names the child. Before they became fubject to the Ruffian Government, the only punifhment among them was, to fell the perpetrator of any heinous crime, as muni &c. together with his whole family for flaves. But, at prefent, the Ruffian laws have been introduced in the principal places in this country. They have very little knowledge of a Supreme Being ; but pay their adorations to miihapen wooden images of men, beads, rimes, bird?, &c. They alfo worihip the heads of beads of prey, particularly thofe of bears, which they put up in the woods, and fervently pray to ; that being an animal of which they are extremely afraid. Their Prieds, whom thev call Shamanns or Kodejhiks, are chofen from among fuch as are moil advanced in years ; and thefe they imagine can make known to them the will of their Gods, foretel future events, and perform all kinds of magical operations by their ftrange geftures and ridiculous grimaces. Till the reign of the Czaar Iwan Wajilowitz, the only magiftrate among them was the oldeft man in the family or village, to whom the reft were fubjeet. But in this Czaar's reign a perfon called Anica Stroganow fent his fon to make difcoveries in this country, who, on his return, made an ample report to the Government. The Ruffians were not a little fond of the fine furrs it produced ; and the Czaar immediately ordered feveral forts to be built in different parts of the country. The Samoiedes readilv fub- mitted to pay a tribute of furrs, which was impofed on them. By degrees die habitable places were occupied by Ruffian colonies and Governor::. Thefe people made two attempts to lhake off the Ruffian yoke, but were foon reduced. They have the fined; furrs in all the Ruffian Empire, which they difpofe of to the Ruffians for trifles ; and, when they meet with no fuccefs in hunting and fiflnng they exchange them for meal : They mix the meal with water, and eat it out of a kettle which always hangs over the fire. The Circles of this Government are, i. The Circle of Kola which is a part of Lapland. Places of note in this Circle are as follow. Kola or Kolfki Ojlrog is a fmall place in the Latitude of 68°, 5-4". ft flands on the river Kola, which riles in a lake of the fame name, fall» into a fmall bay of the Northern Ocean, and forms a harbour in this place which is frequented every year by fome foreign fhips. Near Kola Hands the convent of Pejbenjkoi. Swiatoi Nofs, i. e, ' The holy cape,' which projects into the Northern. Ocean. Kandalax^ 447 44 8 RUSSIA. [Archangel. Kandalax, Koweda, Keret, Ketnjkoi Ojirog, and Sumßoi Oflrog are all mean towns fituated near the White Sea. 2. The Dwina Circle, called by the Ruffians Dwinskoi Uiezd Remarkable places in this Circle are, Archangel, in the Ruffian language Gorod Arkangelskoi ', in Latin Arcban- gelopclis, the capital of this Government, and a famous commercial city, lies in 64° 34' North Latitude, on the river Dwina, about leventy-fwe JVerßs from the White Sea. This city is about three Englijh miles in length, and one in breadth, and the houfes are all built with wood after the Ruffian manner, except the large Goßinnoi Dwor, or ' Merchants Exchange,' which is of ftone. The citadel, where the Governor lives, is furrounded with a kind of wall made with large pieces of timber. This city is a Bifhop's See. The Lutherans and Cahinijls have their respective churches here. Provifions are fold very cheap at Archangel. The foundation of its commerce was laid by the Englijh in the reign of the Czaar Jwan Bafilowitz * ; and the advantages they reaped from the R/ffia-trade foon prompted other nations to put in for a (hare of it. But thegradual increafe and profperity of Petersburg has occafioned this citj to decline in the fame proportion. However, a poll: has been eftabliihed between this town and Petersburg for the conveniency of trade. Noiva Divinka a fort, which flands on an ifland. Kolmogozi, a fmall town, which lies on an ifland in die Dwina, not far from Archangel. This place is remarkable for being the refidence of An- thony Vlric Duke of Brunfwic, and his auguft family. Kerni, a fmall town, on the White Sea. Near it lies the ifland of Sdoivezkoi, on which ftands the famous monaftery where two celebrated faints are worshipped, and on that account much frequented by pilgrims. Kere is alio a flate prifon. 3. The Circle of Kewrol, called in the Ruffian language Kewrolskoi Uiezd. In this DiftricT: lies Kewrol, a fmall town, with fome other mean towns or villages. 4. The Circle of Mesen, called by the Ruffians Mejenskoi Uiezd, and in the imperial titles, Udorien. Its chief town is Me/en, fituated on a river of the fame name. It has alio feveral other places of lefs note. 5. The Circle of Pustosersk, in the Ruffian language Pujlojerskoi Uiezd. In this Circle lies Pujlojerskoi Oflrog, on the lake of Pitflofero, which has a communication with the river Pet/bora. This country was for- merly called Ingorien. 6. The Circle of Yarensk, in the Ruffian language Iarenskoi Uiezd. The mod remarkable place in this Circle is the fmall town of Yarensk which flands on the river Wytjhegda. * In the year 1553. See note in p. 393. 7. The Archangel.] RUSSIA. 4.49 7. The Circle of Solwvtshegotsk, called by the Ruffians Soliwyt- ßoegotskoi Uiezd. Places of note in this Circle are, Solwytfhegotskaia, a town famous for its falt-works. Lalskoi Pofad, a market-town on the river Lata, which falls into the Lufa about two Werjis from this place. It has three handfom churches built with ftone, and two alms-houfes, one of which has a good church. The number of houies in this town is about one thoufand ; and the inhabi- tants are almoft all traders. Some villages belong to this place ; and near it ftands a monaflery. 8. The Circle of Ustiug, called by the Ruffians Ufiiujhkoi Uiezd. In this Circle lies the provincial town Ußiug Weliki, near the conflux of the rivers Sukfotia and lug. Ußiug formerly flood at the mouth of the latter, from which it derives its name. This city is about three Werfts and a half in length, and half a Werfl in breadth, and, including the Dymowskaia Sloboda, which joins to it, contains twenty-three churches, beiides five covents, and fitteen other churches about it. This city is an Archbilfiop's See. Its communication by water with Arch- angel and Wologda makes it fo convenient for trade, that moll of its inha- bitants are merchants; and fome of them are veiy wealthy. Thole who go from Archangel to Siberia, generally pafs through this city ; and molt of the merchants who travel from Siberia to RuJ/ia go by way of Ußiug. There is great plenty of fifh taken in this place. Though Ufliug lies in Lati- tude 61 degrees 15 minutes; yet the fruits of the earth often come to ma- turity in this climate. 9. The Circle of Washsk, by the Ruffians called Wajhskoi Uiezd. In this Circle are the following remarkable places. Pofad Wercowajhskoi , a good market-town. Shenkursk, a town or village on the river Waga. 10. The Circle of Tot ma, or Totemskoi Uiezd. In this Diftrict are, Totma, a town confifting of about two hundred mean houfes, and thir- teen churches. Moft of the inhabitants both of the town and Sloboda, or fuburbs, are traders. Without the town are two convents, and eighteen falt-pits which are fupplied by three faline fprings. The fait is white and traniparent, but not very pungent ; and the tafle of it is a little bitterifh. Totma formerly flood on the river of the fame name. It is under the jurifdiction of the province of Wologda. Nowoie Ujjolie, which ftands on the river Kowda, has four falt-pits. Lednigskoie Ußlie, leated on the river Ledinga, has five falt-pits, where both a very white and a browniih fait is made. 1 1. The Circle of Wologda, or Wologojhkoi Uiezd In this Circle the places of note are, Vol. I. M m m . Wologda, 45° RUSSIA. [Mofcow. Wologda, the provincial city, which ftands on a river of the fame name. It has feventeen hundred dwelling-houfes, fixty-eight churches, two con- vents with four churches, and a German Slobode, or Suburb, though but two German families now live in it. To this city alfo belong two Slobodes or Suburbs inhabited by fledge-drivers, in which are two churches ; befides a convent of Monks with four churches, and a Slobode with two churches. It is the See of an Archbifhop. This city formerly was in a flourifhing condition, and carried on a confiderable trade : But its commerce now eonfifts of hemp, hemp-feed, and matting made of the bark of lime- trees, which the inhabitants fend to Archangel in a few large barges that belong to this town ; and the 7??//w-leather and tallow they fend by land to Petersburg. Archangel on the other hand lupplies Wologda with all foreign commodities, which are fold here very cheap. Moft of the in- habitants of this town are dealers. Hollanders and Germans have been fettled here for a long time part ; and upon the taking of Narva, the greateft part of the inhabitants, who were taken prifoners, were fent to this town, and by their induftry provided lb well for themfelves, that it was with reludlancv they went back. The Archangel poft paffes through this town, which is eight hundred Werfis diftant from that city. Kitbenskoie Sek, a village on the lake Rubenskoe, which abounds with fifh, and is fixty Werßs in length, and between five and fourteen in breadth. It belongs to the Soltikow family. 12. The Circle of Galitsh, called by the Ruffians Galitßohi Uiezd, formerly a principality. The moft remarkable places here are, Galifß, the principal town of this Circle. Sol Galitfikaia, Tjhukloma, Sadai Kolorew, Perfenew, and Unßd, fmall towns in this Circle. III. The Government of MOSCOW, By the Rißans called MOSKOWSKAIA GUBERNIIA. THIS Province is the beft cultivated and moft populous in the whole Empire, and may be called the garden of Rußet, in the centre of which it lies. The Mofcow.] RUSSIA. The Circles included in this Government are the following. i. The Circle of Kostroma. In this Diflricl lies Koßroma, a provincial town of a middling fize, fituated on the Wolga, •and furrounded with a rampart of earth. Oppofiteto it on the right hand lies a fuburb czWtd Slobode Gorodijhtjhc ; and near this, above the town, flands the irately monaflery of Iratskci, furrounded with flone-walls and ornamented with towers, battlements, &c. The fmall towns of Bui, Liubim and Shuia are alfo in this Circle. 2. The Circle of Yaroslawl, which was formerly a Principality. In this Diftxicl are the following remarkable towns. Yaroflawl, a large and well built provincial town, which has a good trade, and is celebrated for its lachte or ify^vz-leather. The (hops in the large- Exchange make a very grand appearance, and are very well flecked both with home and foreign goods. Here is alfo a conliderable manufacture for ail kinds of linen, and flowered woollen fluffs, which belong to the Sa- trupefnow, who employs there 4000 of his vaffals. The Ruffian church, which ftands near the manufactory, is built in the German tafle, and has few equal to it in this countrv. This town is famous in hiflorv for having been the refidence of the unfortunate Ernß 'John, Duke of Courland. Doß:ekonie, a town lituated at the conflux of the Tßntkona and the Shekfna. Romanow, a town on the river Wolga. 3. The Circle of Uglitsh. In this Circle lies XJglitß:, a provincial town on the Wolga. It is of the middling fize and has a wooden fort. Kafhin, a fmall town which ftands on the Wolga. 4. The Circle of Pereslaw-Salesk, or the Dutchy of Rostow. In this Circle are, Pareßawl Saleskoi, a Provincial town lituated in a pleafant country, and furrounded with hills. Roßoiv, a little town on a fmall lake, in which the river Weda has its lburce. It is an Archbifhop's See. 5. The Circle of Yuriew. In this Circle lie Turiew Polskoi, a provincial town, fituated on the river NerL Litch, a fmall town. 6. The Circle of Susdal. . In this Diih'idt lies Sufdal, a provincial city and a Bifhop's See. Peter I. after divorcing J,- rirfl wife Eudoxia Feodoroivna, confined her in the covent of St. Bqfil in this town, which is a (lately edifice. M m m 2 7. The 451 452 RUSSIA. [Mofcow. 7. The Circle of Wolodimer, which is a Dutchy. The only remarkable place in this Diftridt is Wolodimer, a provincial town, which ftands on the river Kliaßna. It was formerly one of the feats of the Great Dukes. 8. The Circle of Moscow. In this Circle lies Moskwa or Mofcow, the ancient capital of the Ruffian Empire, and refi- dence of the Czaars, which is the largeft city in Europe., and lies in a pleafant plain. It derives its name from the river Moskwa, which runs on the fouth fide of it. Mofcow was founded in the year 11 56; at leaft it appears to have been a city in 1175. It lies in a round fituation formed by the winding of the river ; and the compafs of the curve is about thirty-fix IVerjls, or twenty-four Engli/h miles. But its circuit is faid to have been formerly twice as large. The number of the churches in this city is com- puted at 1600, among which are eleven cathedrals and two hundred and feventy-one parifh churches : The reft either belong to convents, or may be looked on as private chapels. Near the churches are hung up feveral large bells, which are kept continually chiming. Many of the churches have gilt fteeples and are magnificently decorated within : the veftments of the Priefts are alfo very rich. The number of public edifices and areas, or places, at Mofcow amount to forty-three. The mean houfes, indeed, are much more numerous than thofe that are well built ; but the latter are dally increafing. The ftreets are broad and well laid out ; but as only a part of them is paved, they are very dirty. This city is divided into four Circles, which lie one within another. The interior Circle, or the Kremlin, which fignifies a fortrefs, contains the following remarkable buildings ; namely, the old imperial palace, pleafure-houle, and (tables ; a victualing-houfe ; the palace which formerly belonged to the Patriarch; nine cathedrals; five convents; four pariih-churches ; the public colleges and other offices ; and the arfenal. All the churches in the Kremlin have beautiful fpires ; moft of them being gilt with pure gold, or covered with filver. The architecture is in the old or Gothic tafie ; but the infide of the churches is richly ornamented ; and the pictures of the Saints are decorated with gold, filver, and precious fiones. In the cathedral called Sobor, which has no lefs than nine towers or cupolas covered with copper double gilt, is a filver branch with forty-eight lights, which is faid to weigh 2800 pounds. Here are depofited in filver ihrines the remains of three Archbifhops, namely, Peter, Philip, and 'Jonas ; and in a golden box is kept a robe brought from Perjia, which is here looked upon as the identical garment which our Saviour wore. Many other reliques öl great value, to be feen in this cathedral, I omit. The remains of the Sove- reigns of the Rußan Empire and their male defendants are interred in St. Michael's church; and thofe of their Conforts, and the Princeffes, are de- pofited Mofcow.] RUSSIA. pofited in the convent of Tßudow. In the great tower of the church of Iwan Weliki, which is two hundred and fixty-two Englijh feet high, are eighty-fix bells of different fizcs ; and the laft which was hung up there weighs about 500,000 pounds or 2500 tons. The height and diameter of it being equal, are eighteen Rlmiland feet and a half ; but this bell was very much damaged by a fall. All thefe ftructures, which are in the Kremlin, or interior part of the city, are both lofty and fpacious, and built with ftone. This Circle is three hundred fathoms in diameter. It is fur- rounded with very high and thick walls flanked with fix towers, and planled with cannon, and with deep moats and ramparts. On one fide it is watered by the Mo/kwa, on the fecond by the Neglina ; and on the third lies Kitai- gorod. From this Circle you pafs over a ftately ftone-bridge into The fecond Circle of the city, which is called Kitaigorod, or the Chinefc town. In this Circle are five ftreets, two cathedrals, eighteen parifh churches, four convents, thirteen noblemens houfes, and nine public edifices, and places or areas. Thefe are 1. The famous chief dilpenfary, which is adorned with rich porcelain gallipots and other vefiels decorated with the Im- perial arms ; and from this place the whole Empire is fupplied with medicines. 2. The Mint, which is a fupurb flruclure. 3. A magazine or warehoufe, where all goods are brought before they have paid duty. 4. The Cullom- houfe. 5. The Ambafiador's palace, which is now converted into a filk manufactory. 6. A Printing-houfe. 7. A hall for a Court of Judicature. 8. The Phyfic Garden. 9. The Exchange, called Goflinnoi Duor, in which are about 6000 handfome fhops. This is the fcene of trade, and where all commercial affairs are tranfacted ; particularly what relates to the trade with China, fo that it fwarms with merchants and fpe&ators. This part of the citv is fortified with a pretty high wall, which is ftrengthened with twelve round and quadrangular towers, and ftrong bulwarks. One üde of this Circle lies towards fart. Kremlin ; the fecond is iurrounded by the river Mosku-a-, the third by that of Neglina ; and the fourth is inclofed by a wall which runs from the Nelgina to the Moskwa. The third Circle which furrounds the former, is Belgorod, or the ' White town,' lb called from a white wall with which it is encompafed : It is alio called the Czaar's Town. The Neglina runs through this part of the citv from South to North. In this Circle feveral Knees, Boiars, Merchants and tradelmen refide ; but there are alio many dirty fpots in this quarter, and the houfes for the moft part are very mean. It includes eleven convents, (even abbeys, feventy-fix parifh-churches, and nine public edifices and areas ; namely, two palaces, a canilon-foundery, two market-places, one brew- houfe, one magazine of provifions, the falt-fifh harbour, and the Ba - Garden. At the timber market are fold new wooden houfes, which may be taken to pieces, and put together again where the purchafer pleafes. The fourth Circle is called Semlanoigorod, i. e. 'a town iurrounded with ramparts of earth'. This Circle indoles the three preceding parts ; and its, 45.1 45+ RUSSIA. [Mofcow. its ramparts include an area of eighteen or nineteen Werßs. The entrance through thefe ramparts was formerly by thirty-four gates of timber and two of ftone. But of thefe only the two laft are {landing at prefent. Over one of thefe gates is a Mathematical fchool and an Oblervatory. This Circle contains two convents, one hundred and three parifh churches, an imperial ftable, a cloth-manufactory, an artillery-arfenal, a magazine for provifions, and a mint. Round thefe principal parts of the city lie the vaft fuburbs belonging to it, in which are ten convents and fixty parilh churches. Thefe all look like the villages in other parts of this country, except the German quarter called Ina- femjka Sloboda ox Ne met ska Sloboda ; which is both the largeft and handfomeft, and contains two Lutheran churches, a grammar fchool, a Calviniß church and a Popith church. This fuburb lies towards the Eaft, on the river Taufa. To the Weft of it lies a palace called Annenhof\ with a good garden ; and towards the North is a large and ftately hofpital. Farther to the Weft of the fuburb ftands the palace of the Emprefs Elifabeth, which is called Po- krouske ; and weftward of that, the old cattle of Preobrafivnskoi ; and ftill nearer the city are an artillery arfenal, a magazine for bombs and grenadoes, another for forage and provifions, and the hawk-mews. From the palaces of Semonowskoi, Ifmailow, and the above-mentioned caftle of Preobraß:enskoi, the three regiments of guards derive their names, who are called the Preobra- ßxnskol, the Semenowskoi, and Ifmailow regiments. The whole number of the inhabitants of this vaft city are fuppofed to be about 1 50,000 * ; thefe confift of ftateimen, noble families and their fervants, ibldiers, merchants, mechanics, fledge-drivers and carriers, priefts, monks, and fervants belonging to the churches, labourers, &c. The police of this city is on very laudable footing. Since the building of Petersburg, and its being made the feat of the Empire, Mofcow is itly declined. In the year 1755, an Univerlity, and two Gymnafia or Seminaries were founded here. Mofcow has often luffered by fares; and in the years \JIJ-, 1748, and 1752, a coniiderable part of it was reduced to allies -, efpecially by the laft fire, which confumed above half the city, together with the noble difpenfary mentioned above, and the Czarina's ftables. But the houfes have always been foon rebuilt after fuch a calamity, as they are for the moft part of very mean materials. The gardens hereabouts yield variety of fruit and arc particularly famous for the tranfparent apple called by the Ruffians Naliici. In the Circle of Mofcow are alio the following places of note. Tfoitz, or "Troiskoi monafiir, i. e. ' The convent of the Holy Trinity.' This is the largeft convent, and the beft endowed in all RuJJia ; the number of ' Nfotwithftamling the vaft extent of Mofccw, which our author calls the largeft city in / urcpe, it appi ti i y this that it is vaftly interior to L it. , the number of inhabitants in I'lijui tcini i.- ti'.any, as are cemputed to be in the former. 4 peafants, Mofcow.] RUSSIA. peafants who are its vaflals being no lefs than 20,000. It lies at the diftance of fixty JVcrßs from Mofcow, and is built in a quadrangular form, in the old Gothic tafte. It is alfo inclofcd with ftrong walls, ramparts and moats, and is always garrifoned by a company of foldiers. The convent itfelf h a fpacious, lofty, and handfome ftructure. The great church is very fplendid, and has a fine tower in which are feveral valuable bells. Befides the principal church, there are nine other churches and a grammar fchool within the inclofure of this convent. The number of monks who relide here is faid to be about fix hundred. This was the place where Peter I. took flielter after he had narrowly efcaped the hands of the Strelitzes, who had been fpirited up againft him by his half-fifter Sophia. It has been an ancient cuftom for the fovereign of the Ruffian Empire to go a pilgrimage to this place. Here are feveral dead bodies which, from natural cau'fes, remain undecayed. Near this convent lies a fmall town. Kolomna, a fmall town ; which, however, is a Bifhop's See. The towns of Klin, Swemgorod, Mofaijk, Borifow, Wereia, Borowsk, Serpucow, Taroßawetz, Obolemk, Tarn/a, and Roß.ira alio lie in this Circle. 9. The Circle of Pereslaw-Riasanskoi. In this Circle are, Pereßaw Riafanskoi, a provincial town, on the river Oka, which firit began to flouriih after the deftru&ion of the town of Re/an. An Arch- bifhop's See is erected here. Re/an, which was formerly a noted town ; but is now very much de- cayed; having been deftroyed by the Tartars in the year 1568. This ruinous town lies on the river Oka. Prousk and Micailow, are fmall towns on the banks of the river Prona. 10. The Circle of Kaluga. In this Circle lies Kaluga, a provincial town, which flands on the river Oka. Worotinsk, Peremyßl, Rozehk, Likwin, Meßtßxriv/k, and Serpetsk are fmall towns in this Circle. 1 1. The Circle of Tula. In this Diftrict are, Tula, a fine provincial and trading city, fituated on the river Upa. It con- tains one hundred and forty-four churches and convents ; and great quan- tities of fire arms and Rußa-leather are made in this town. Diedilow and Alexin, two fmall towns or villages. 455 IV. The 456 RUSSIA. [Niflinei-Novogrod. IV. The Government of N I S H N E I-N O r O G R O ZX THIS Government is inhabited by the following tribes; namely, The Mordunlam, Morduans or Aforduats, whole language is laid very much to refemble the Flnnlandißo dialed!:. The Tßeremißans, diftinguifhed into the Logowoi, who inhabit the plain on the left fide of the Wolga ; and the Nagornoi who live among the mountains on the right fide of that river. The former belong to this Government ; but the greateft part of the latter to that of Kafan. They feem to have no religion but that of Nature. Their chief facrifking pried: they call Tugtuß ; and under him is another diftinguifhed by the appellation of Mußian. Their language is neither that of the Tartars nor Ruffians, Many of thefe people have been baptized. The Tß>wwaßians, who live difperfed in this and the Kafan Government, and are a numerous tribe. In the diftricl of Tßjebaxar they exceed 18,000 fouls; in that of Kufmademianski they are above 10,000 in number: in the territory of Sirilfgorod "they amount at leaft to 12,000, and in that of Swyask to 60,000 ; but in the Diftrict of Kokßaisk they do not exceed 400 fouls. They worfhip, as they fay, one God, whom they call Tora ; they alfo look upon the Sun as a kind of Divinty, and pay their adoration to that luminary. They have feveral other inferior or fubordinate Deities which, they fay., hold the fame rank with the faints of the Rußians. Every village has its own idol, which is ereöed in a quadrangular confecrated place in- clofed with pallifadoes. They perform their devotions to it near a fire; where they offer a fheep to the idol, and hang up the fkin for a trophy in honour of it. The perfon who performs this facrifice, and to whom they have recourfe in every difficulty, is ftiled Tumaffe ; and both fexes are capable of this religious office. Great numbers of thefe Pagans have been baptized ; and in all the Ruffian towns, in the Diftridts where they live, fchools have been erected for the inftruciion of their youth in the principals of the Chriftian religion, in order to qualify them to be miffionaries among their own tribe. This Govenrment includes the following Circles. 1. The Circle of Nishnei-Novogrod, or Kiß:nei?ioivgorodjkoi Uiezd, which is alfo a Dutchy. In this Circle lies Nijhnci-Novogrod, i. e. ' Loivcr-Novcgrod,' a large provincial city which ftands on the Wolga, at the influx of the river Oka. It was built in the year 1222 by the Great Duke Jurli, or George, Wfewohditß) ; and as it was the Smolenflc.] RUSSIA. the appenage and place of refidencc of the petty Ruffian Princes, many of them lie buried here. In this city are two cadiedrals ; twenty-eight parifh- churohes, molt of which are built with ftone; and five convents. It is an Archbiihop's See ; and has a caftle furrounded with ftone walls. The trade of this town is fo considerable, that the lhops make a very handfom appearance, being richly furnifhed with all kind of foreign and home goods. In the great fire that broke out here in 171 5, fome thoufands of the in- habitants loft their lives. 2. The Circle of Balacna, in the Ruffian language Balaconffioi Uiezd. In this Circle are, Balacna, a very long town but meanly built. It Hands on the Wolga, and is famous for its falt-fprings, which afford a conftant fupply to fifty boiling houfes. Turiiew Powolski, a fma'l town on the Wolga, near v, hich, on the bank of the river, are to be (sen the ruins of a large caftle that was built with brick. 3. The Circle of Arsamas, or Arzamaskci Uiezd, in which the only place of note is Arfanas, the provincial city. 4. The Circle of Kasimow, in which lie Kafunow and Murom, two fmall towns on the river Oka. V. The Government of SMOLENSK. -T^HIS Government contains White Ruffia, properly fo called; and was •*- ceded by Poland to Rujfia, as a Dutchy, by the treaty of And) ujjbic, which was concluded in 1607, and confirmed in the year 1686. The moil remarkable places in this Government are, Smolensky a large and well fortified town, on the Dnieper. It is the re- sidence of the Governor, and a Bifhop's See; and its commerce is very conliderable. It is famous in hiftory, as the lubjecT: of many diiputes be- tween the Poles and Ruffians; during which it was often befieged and taken by both parties. Andruffbw, a village lying between Smolensk and the town of Mßißaw, clofe by the river Harodna. This place is famous only for the treaty ox peace concluded here in 1667 between Ruffia and Poland. Dogorobus, a fmall place feated on the Dnieper. Wiafma, a fmall town on a river of the fame name. Vol. I. Nnn VI. [The 457 45 8 RUSSIA, VI. The Government of K 1 E TV. THIS Government is a part of Little Rußa, and is inhabited by the Cofaks ; which word fignifies irregular troops of horfe. The Cofaks are divided into The European Cofaks -, and thefe are i. The Za-porog Cofaks; who live below the cataracl of the Dnieper , fome on the fide next to Ruffia, and others on the oppofite fide of the river. The latter are fubdivided into Sietjhien or Lower Cofaks, and Upper Cofaks. Mod of thefe are fubjecl to the Ruffians. 2. The Bielogorod-Cofaks, and 3. A part of the Don-Cofaks. Both thefe are under the Ruffian Govern- ment. The Asiatic Cofaks, including, t. The reft of the Don-Cofaks. 2. The Grebin-Cofaks. 3. The Taik-Cofaks. All thefe are fubject to Ruff a. 4. The Cafatßjia-Horda, who were formerly an independent people j but are now, partly, fubject to Can-Taißja. It appears from Confiantine Porphyrogenetes, that the Cofaks were known by that name fo early as the year of Chrifl 948. They lived on mount Caucafus, in the place now called Cabardey; and were reduced under the Ruffian dominion in 102 1, by Prince Mßißaw. The PolJßj writers reprefent the Cofaks as a very ftrange fet of people ; but this, in a great meafure, muft be imputed to national prejudice. They reproach them in particular by calling them a mixed rabble. It is true that, from time to time, many Ruffians, Poles, &c. who could not live at home, have been admitted among the Cofaks : But the latter, abftrafted from thefe fugitives, muft have been an ancient and a well-governed nation. The Zaporog-Cofaks, in the beginning of the fifteenth century, fixed their habitations on the fpacious plains that lie along the banks of the Dnieper. Ever fince the thirteenth century, they had fuffered very greatly from the ravages of the 'Tartars, for which they afterwards took ample revenge. The Poles, being fenfible how ufeful the Cofaks might be to de- fend them againft the incurfions of the Tartars, and even of the Ruffians, propofed an alliance to them. In the year 1562 they folemnly took them inder their protection, and engaged to pay them a yearly fublidy ; in return for which the Cofaks were to keep on foot a good body of troops for the de- fence of the Polißj dominions. In order to bind them more ftrongly by ties of intcreft, the Poles gave up to them the whole country lying between the Kiew.] RUSSIA. the rivers Dnieper and Niejfer and the borders of Tartary. This fruitful tract of land the Cofaks fo induftrioufly cultivated, that in a fhott time it was interfperfed with lar«e towns and handfome villages. Befides, they continually harafled the Turks, and did them all pofiible damage by their in- curfions ; and to prevent the latter from purfuing them, or making reprifals, they fcized on feveral finall iflands in the Dnieper, where they kept their magazines, &c. The Hettman or General of the Cofaks was not in the leaft fubordinate to die Field-Marfhal of Poland; but adled in conceit with the latter as an ally of that Republic, and not as a fubject. But this alii;- though it was fo advantageous both to the Poles and Cofaks, did not fubfift. The former envied the latter the fine country that they were in pofieffion of, and made an attempt to bring them into fubjectk n. Upon this, the Cofaks fired with indignation, had recourfe to arms, and applied both to Raffia, and the Ottoman Porte for protection. A very bloody war en- fued, which, in the fixteenth and feventeenth century, was, from time to time, renewed with the utmoft fury and animofity. In the years \ 587, 1596, 1630, 1637, and 1638, the Poles were, for the moft part, victorious. And though the Cofaks, in the year 1648, gained confiderable advantages over the Poles; yet, in the lollowing year, they made overtures for an accommodation ; in which, however, they not only preferved their old immunities, but acquired new privileges. The refult of all was, that thefe Cofaks remained under the protection of Rußia ; and as their former country was all laid wafte iiv the late wars, they fettled in the Ruffian Ukraine, upon receiving formal afiurances from the Court of Rußa, that no alteration ihould be made in their political conftitution ; and that no taxes or imports fhould be laid on them. On the other hand, the Cofaks were always to keep in readinefs a good body of troops for the fervice of RuJJia. But Mazeppa their Hettman or Chief, in the year 1708, went over from the Ruffians to the Swedes ; upon which Peter I. determined to prevent fuch revolts for the future. To this end after the battle of Pultarja, he lent a thong cetatchment into the above-mentioned little iflands in the Dnieper, whither the Cofaks had fled, witli their wives and children, and all their effect?, and ordered them all without diitinction to be put to the fword, and the plunder to be diftributed among the foldiers. Befides, that monarch fent a great number of his men into their country, and caufed many thousands of the Cofaks to be carried to the coaft of the Baltic, where they were put to all manner of hard labour: and by that means, he in a manner, exterminated them. Upon the death of their laft Hettman, which happened in 1722, that office was aboKfhed : but it was reflored again in 1750, when they elected for their 'titan Count Kirila Grigorieicitjb Rajumcwsky, Privy Counfellor of the Ruffian Empire, prefident of the Academy of Siences, and Lieutenant- Colonel of the 7/W»7W'-regiment of life-guards. This election beingpublicly declared and confirmed by the reigning Emprefs Elij'abeih on the tvyenty- N nn 2 fourth 459 4-5 o RUSSIA. [Kiew. fourth of April 0. S. his promotion was made public by the Senate at Peterfiurg, by an inftrument bearing date the twelfth of June following. The country of thefe Cofah is commonly called the Ocraine or Ukraine, which word properly fignifies a frontier ; for it lies on the borders of Rußa, Poland, Little Tartary, and Turkey. By virtue of the laft treaty, concluded in 1693, between Rußa and Poland, the latter remains in pofleffion of all that part of the Ukraine that lies on the weft fide of the Dnieper, which is now but indifferently cultivated. The country on the eaft fide of that river inhabited by the Ccfaks is in a much better condition, and extends about fixty geographical or German miles in length, and as many in breadth. It is one continued fertile plain, watered by a great number of fine rivers, and diverfified with pleafant woods. It produces all kinds of grain, pulfc, tobacco, honey, and wax in fuch quantities, as to fupply a great part of the Rußan Empire v/ith thofe commodities. The paftures are extremely rich and fucculent, and the cattle of an extraordinary fize ; the rivers alfo abound with excellent fifh. This fine country, however, is very much infefted by locufts, which are a great plague to the inhabitants. Moft of the houfes in the Ukraine are built with wood after the Rußan manner. The Cofah, as to their perfons, are tall, well made, generally hawk-nofed, and of a very good mien. They are vigorous, hardy, brave, and very jealous of their liberty; fickle and wavering, but fociablc, chearful and fprightly. Their forces entirely confift of cavalry. Their dialect is a mixture of the Polifl and Rußan languages ; but the latter is moft predominant. They profefs the Greek religion ; but there are alfo fome Roman Catholics and Proteftants among them. They are a very powerful people. Every town, with the diftricf belonging to it, is governed by an officer called Ottomann, or Attamann. The Don-Cofah, who live on the banks of the river Don, very much refemble thofe we have been defcribing. In 1549, when the Czaar Iivair Baßlowkz was Emperor of Rußa, they voluntarily put themfelves under his protection ; and are, at prefent, nearly on an equal footing with the other Ruffian fubjecls. Thefe Cofah have a great number of towns and villages along the banks of the Don : But the fcarcity of frefh water and wood in many places, prevents them from extending themfelves farther up the country. They fubfift chiefly by grazing and agriculture, and occa- sionally by robbing and plundering, for which they want neither capacity nor inclination. Every town is governed by a magiftrate, which they call •Tamann ; and the Tamanns with their towns, are under the jurisdiction of two Ottomanns, who refide at T/l.vrkasky. The troops of thefe Cofah like-* wife confift entirely of cavalry. Every town and village in this country is fortified and furrounded with paliifadoes, by way of fecurity againft the incurfions of the Calmuch and Kuban-Tartars, with whom they are always at war. The Cofah, in general, are of great fervice to garrifon-towns or Kiew.] RUSSIN. 4 6r ov defend diem, and to purfue an enemy ; but are not Co good at regular attacks. The Sietßj-Cofaks have their particular Hettman ; and are alfo known by the name of Haidamacks. They live in the Ruffian, Pc/ißj, and Turkijb dominions along the banks of the Dnieper. The Taik-CoJ'aks live on the fouth iide of the river Talk ; and on the fuccefs of the Ruffian arms in the kingdom of Aßracan, voluntarily fub- mitted to them. In height of ftature they very much refemble the other Cojaks ; though by their booriih manner of living, and intcr-marriages with the "Tartars, they have not the (hape and air peculiar to the reft of their country- men : However, they refemble them in their natural difpolitions and cuftor.i: . Their chief occupations are agriculture, fifhing, and feeding cattle; and, like the other tribes, they feldom let flip an opportunity of purloining from their neighbours. Their continual wars with the Kara-Kalpacs and the Kujat '/hia-Hor da, lay them under a neceflity of keeping their towns and villages in a defenuble ftate. They are, indeed, fubjeft to Ruflian Wai- ivodes, to whom they are every year obliged to pay tribute in corn, wax, honey, and cattle : But they have alfo their particular Chiefs, who Govern them according to their ancient cuftoms. The greateft part of the Taik- Cofaks, it is true, profefs the Greek religion ; but a great many reliques of JViahometanifm and Paganifm are ftill to be found among them. They make excellent foldiers, being remarkable for hardinefs and courage; and they are not ib turbulent as the other Cojaks. They live in an entire peace, and even have a commercial intercourfe, with the Calmucks, Sec. The Government of Kiew coniifts of the following Circles. j . The Circle of Stakodub. In this DiftricT: are, Starodub, one of the four guarantee-towns, which was the firft yielded as a fecurity to the Ruffians by the Poles. This town obtained the pri- vileges of a royal free city from the Kings of Poland. Roßawl, a town of the middling iize, on the river Belifna. Potß.iep, a fmall town on the river Suda. 2. The Circle of Sever ien, or Neshin, formerly a Dutchy, was ceded by the Poles to the Ruß/ans, by the treaty of Audrußbn', in the year 1667. Places of note in this Circle are, Nowgorod Seweißi, in Latin Novogardia, or Neapqlis Severiu-, a fmall town on the river Defiia. Baturin, a town which, before it was deftroyed by the Rujians, ftood on a fmall eminence near the river Sem, and was the feat of a Cofak Helt- wann. In the year 1708, it was carried, without any great lols, by the Rußans fword in hand ; who after plundering it, and putting all the in- habitants to the fword, fet fire to the town and reduced it to allies. The 4 caftlc 4 6 2 R U S S I A. [Kiew. cattle is now handfomely rebuilt for the new Hettmann ; and preparations are making alio for repairing the town. GIucgw, a city, where formerly the Chiefs or Governors of the country refided. Konotop, a fmall town. Ncß:in or Nießnn, one of the four guarantee-towns. It ftands on the river Uda, and when, it belonged to the Poles, was a royal free town. 3. The Circle of Tshernigow was formerly a Dutchy, and, like the •-»receding ceded by the Poles to the Rußans by the treaty of Andrißow. Remarkable places in this Circle are, Tßerm'gow, a city on the river Def/ia, and the See of an Archbifhop, who is alfo Archbifhop of Nowgorod Sewerßi. Lubitßo, a fmall town. 4. The Circle of Kiew. In this DiftricT: lies Kiew, or Klow, the capital of this Government, which ftands on the Dnieper. This city is faid to owe its beginning to Kins a Sclavonian Prince, and, according to the Pol'ß writers, was built in the year 430 ; but this account is not to be depended upon. It was, at firft, the refidence of Skold and Dir, two famous IVaregerian Chiefs : But in the year 1037, the Great Duke Iaroßaw declared it the capital of all Ruffia ; and it con- tinued to be the refidence of the Great Dukes till the twelfth century. Afterwards it fell into the hands of the Poles ; but at the treaty of An- drußow, they gave it up in 1667 to the Rußans for a certain term of years, and in 1686 ceded it to Rußa for ever. It confifts properly of three fmall towns, namely, the caftle of Petßersky with its fuburbs, the old city of Kiew, and the town of Podol that lies below the latter -, which are partly in- xlofed with a common fortification, and in other parts have a communica- tion by a large entrenchment, carried on as the inequality of the mountains would permit. The whole garrifon confifts of feven regiments of foot 5 and the city is governed by a Statthalter General, a Deputy -Statt ha If er, and a Commandant. The caftle of Petßersky ftands on an eminence facing the fouth ; and, befides barracks for the garrifon, magazines, officers houfes, and fome churches, includes that rich and ftately monaftery which was founded in the eleventh century, and called Petjkersky, becaufe the Monks formerly lived in a Petßera, i. e. 'a cavern', on the mountain where the convent now ftands. In its fubterraneous vaults, which refemble a labyrinth, and confift of cells, chapels, &c. are found great numbers of undecayed bodies, fjippofed to be the remains of Saints and Martyrs, like thofe (hewn at Troitz. The bodies of the deceaied Monks are alfo depofited here. Prints of thefe large fubterraneous vaults, which arc called Crypta Antonia, and of the fmaller vaults, or Crypf a Thcodojia, are to be feen in a little book pub- Kiew.] R U S S S I A. 4* -> publillied by jf. Herbinius, and entitled Religioßs Kiiovienßs Cnpta. Jenar-, 1675. Oppofite to this monaftery formerly (tood a nunnery, which is now converted into a magazine. The luburbs of Petßersky are very large, confifting of the houfes belonging to the above-mentioned convent; and alfo feveral convents and churches, the principal of which is the convent of St. Nicholas. The old city of Kiew (lands on an eminence facing the north, and is fortified, according to the mountainous nature of the country, with horn- works, &c. Here (lands the cathedral of the Greek Archbilhop of Kiew, Halitßj, and Little Rußa, who refides in the convent of St. Sophia. To this church, and the convent of St. Michael where the reliques of St. Bar- bara are kept, belong moft of the houfes in the city. Podol lies below Old Kiew in the plain on the banks of the Dnieper % and, excepting the churches and convents, confifts entirely of (hops and tradefmens houfes. Under the Kings of Poland its magiftrates enjoyed the privileges of a royal free city : and even now are independent of the Co- lonels of the regiments in garrifon, and receive their orders immediately from the War-Office at Glucow. The Academy adjoining to the Bratskoi monaftery, not tar from the town-houfe, is entirely built with (lone ; and is one of the nobleft edifices in the city. The Univerfity of Kiew is, from the names of its founders, called Academia orthodoxa Kiovoinohyla , a;ta, or Kiovomohylaanozaborowskiana. The Archbifhop of Kiow, Halitßo, and Little Rußa is the Principal of the Univerfity ; and under him are two other officers, who have the care of the (ludents. The nine Profeflbrs, who live in a wooden building to which belongs a charming garden, are all monks, and are not to tafte flefh throughout die whole year ; but they are (aid to make little fcruple of tranfgreffing this rule privately. Their falarics are but fmall ; fo that, for the mod part, they are maintained by thf (lipends and prefents which they receive from the (ludents. Th'i num- ber of collegians amounts to about one hundred ; and public leclures in all the fciences are read to them. They alfo perform feveral exercifes according to the cuftom of the Univerfities in Germany and other countries, as public difputations, &c. befides fome others peculiar to themfelves. While Kiew was fubjedt. to the Poles, the Papifts had a Bifhop, a college of Jefuits, a Dominican Convent, and likewife feveral churches in this city ; which were all fuppreffed, and appropriated to the ufe of the pro- felfors of the Greek religion. It was owing to the incurfions and ravages of the Cofaks of Little Rußa, that Kiew was ceded to the Ruffians, together with three other towns, as barriers to fecure them from infults. My plan will not allow me to enlarge any further on the biftorical parti- culars relating to this city. There are feveral fmall towns, viz. Eorijopol, Pogowka, Gogolez, Ofier, Kozelsk, Ntfowka, /v. .,/../, 6:c. m this Circle, On 464 RUSSIA. [Bielogorod. On the weftern bank of the Dnieper ftood formerly the capital of the Tretbimerow-Cofaks, which, at prefent, is only a village. Not far from it on the frontiers, ftands the fortrefs of Bielaia Zerkow. 5. The Circle of Pereieslawl contains the fortrefs of'PereieflawJ, which is one of the guarantee-places, with fome other fmall towns and villages. 6. The Circle of Priluki. In this Diftricl are the fmall towns of Priluki, Perewolotflvia, Romna, &c. 7. The Circle of Lubni, in which are, Lubni, and other fmall places. 8. The Circle of Mirgorod. In this Diftrict are, Mirgorod, Orfitz, and other fmall towns. 9. The Circle of Gaditsh, containing Gaditß.\ Dcbjhenk, &c. 10. The Circle of Pultawa. In this Dim-id are the following places of note. Pultawa, a town on the river Worfkla, the fortifications of which are not very ftrong. This town, with the regular fort belonging to it, is fub- ject to a Commandant, and not to the Colonel of the regiment of Cofaks, who refides here. The Burghers carry on a confiderable trade to the Crimea, and through Poland to Germany. This is but an indifferent town, being built in the manner of the Cojak towns ; but was rendered famous by the Swedes befieging it in 1 709. At laft, it fell into the hands of the Ruffians after the defeat of Charles XII. near this place. A monaftery ftands upon an eminence without the town, where the King of Sweden had his head quarters. Kolomak, a fmall fort. Perewolotßma, a fmall fortrefs, ftands on the river Wor/kla. Orel and Kitaigorodok, are fmall places on the river Orel. 11. The Circle of Samara, in which lie, Samara, a fmall town on a river of the fame name. Rudak, a mean place on the Dnieper. VII. The Govern m e n t of BIELOGOROD. *~V* HIS country is a part of Little Rvßa, and inhabited by Cofaks. **" The Government includes, 1. The Diftrict of Izium, which contains the little town of Izium ütmtcä on the river Dcnez, with fcveral other fmall places. 2. The ßielogorod.] RUSSIN. 465 2. The Diftridt of Carkow, in which are, Car/cow, a little town, Tjhugnew and Satttw, two other little towns which {land on the river Donez. 3. The Circle of Bif.logorod, in which lies Biehgorod, the capital of the Government, which ftands on the river Donez, and was built in the year 990, by the Great Duke Wladimir. About an Englijh mile from the town is a large chalk hill, where Biehgorod formerly flood, and from which it derives its name, which figniries a white town ; but it was afterwards built in a valley between two mountains. It is dived into the Old and New Town and has three fuburbs : The Old Town is furrounded with a rampart and moat, and the New Town with pallifadoes. Biehgorod is an Archbiihop's See. It was formerly called Sarkel, which name is of the lame import with its prefent Rußan name. From this town to the little town of Staroi O/kol a line of communication is drawn ; and there is another intrenchment between the fmall town of Nowoi OJkol and Wercofofnizy which lies in the Government of PForoneJ/j. Karpow, Iablonow, and Korof/ha are fmall places in this Diftrict. 4 The Circle of Waluiki contains Waluiki, a little town on the river Oskol, and fome other fmall places. 5. The Diftricl: of Sumvn, in which are the little towns of Sumyn and Sufa. 6. The DiftricT: of Kursk, in which are Kyrsk, a fmall town on the river Sem. Kylsk and Putiwl, which are fmall towns on the fame river. The latter is a Bilhop's See. 7. The Circle of Siewsk. Places of note in this DiftricT: are as follows. Siewsk, a large town furrounded with high ramparts, in which is a ftrong garrifon. Part of the field-artillery, for the defence of Kiew and other places on the frontiers of the Crimea upon any emergency, are kept in this town. Sursk, a fmall town on the river Sent. Trubtßewsk, a fmall town fituated on the river Defna. Kromy, Samowa, and Kalakobowa, which are fmall towns in this Circle. Karaf/hew and Briansk are towns of a moderate extent. 8. The Province of Orel, in which are the fmall towns of Orel, Mfensk, Tßern, Bolcow, and Bielew. Vol. I. Ooo VIII. The 466 RUSSIA. VIII. The Government of W R O N E S H and A S O W. THIS Government includes the following Diftricls. i. The Diftrid of Woronesh. Remarkable places in this Diftricl are, Woroneß}, a large and populous provincial city, which lies on the narrow but very deep river of the fame name. It is furrounded with a wall, and is the refidence of the Statthalter or Governor, and a Biihop's See. Moft of the ftreets are laid with beams of timber inftead of a ftone pave- ment. Peter I. caufed a large dock-yard to be made here for building of flbips, in order to maintain his fovereignty over the Black Sea ; which drew hither many new inhabitants, among whom were feveral foreign artificers who came to fettle here. Worotießo is a place of confiderable trade. Tawrow, a fmall town on the river Woroneßj. Peter I. likewife ordered a dock-yard to be made here for mip-building ; and a great number of praams, gallies, and barques were built here, which were employed at Afow in the war againft the 'Turks. The ftreets of Tawrow are broad and ftraight, and the houfes well built. Roßins, a fmall town on the river Don. TJfman, Demfhin, Bielokolsk, Romanow, and Sopolsk are fmall towns ir* this Diftriä:. 2. The Diftricl: of Ielez, in which are, Ielez, a provincial town. Talez, Tßernawsk, Iefremoiv t Lebedian, Donkow, and Epifan, which are all inconfiderable towns. 3. The Diftricl of Shatsk contains Sbatsk, a provincial city. Elatma, Radom, Temnikoiv, and Riask, which are fmall towns. 4. The Diftridt of Tambow. In this Diftrift lie Tambow, a provincial town on the river Sna. Koßow and Werchnei Lomow, which are fmall towns. Borijbgliebsk and Novocoperskaia are towns of the middling fize, whicfe ftand on the river Coper. 5. The Diftricl of Korotoiak. Places of note in this Diftricl: are, Korotoiak, a fmall provincial town on the river Don. Oßrogoßky Olßansk, Bebrowsk, &c. which are but fmall towns. 4 Paavkwsk, Woronefli.] RUSSIA. 467 Patvlmvsk, a ruinous town built on the Don by Peter the Great. It is furrounded with chalk-hills, and consequently an unhealthy place *, Here was formerly kept a part of the field-artillery. 6. The Diftricl of Bachmut. In this Diftrift arc the following places of note. Bakmut, a town on a river of the fame name. It lies partly upon an eminence on its weftem bunk, and partly in a plain on the eaft fide of the Bakmut. The former is defended by a citadel ; and, indeed, the whole town is fortified, for the fecurity of its lalt-works. The imperial falt- office at Bakmut maintains one battalion of regular troops, and a company of Cofaks confifting of one hundred men. The country which lies between die Donez, the Don, the Palm Maotis, Mius, and Kalmius not only exceeds all the reft of Little Ruffla in fertility, but alfo has feveral fpots that are fup- pofed to contain rich ore, &c. Tor, a -fortification on a river of the fame name. Raigorodok, Iampol, &c. are fmall towns in this Diftricl. The Don-Cofaks who refide in this Government are poffeffed of a great many fmall towns fituated on the rivers Don and Donez. Their capital is Tjlerkask, which is the refidence of the Ottomann. It is built in the Turkijh manner, and part of it is encompaffed with high pailiiadoes fixed on the Don. This city is of a large compafs, being inhabited by great num- bers of all kinds of AJiatic nations, and carries on a very great trade. Four Werßs beyond T/herkask lies St. Anna, a new town regularly built and fortified by the Ruffians. It is but fmall, and lies low on the bank of the Don : It has fix baftions and the neceffary outworks, with a garrifon eonfifting of two marching and two garrifon regiments. The ftreets are broad, ftraight, and the houfes well built. The adjacent country confifts of a marfhy foil. Not far from the city of Tßwkask the Don divides itfelf into two channels. The fouthern branch, which is the principal, retains the name of Don ; but the northern branch is, by the Ruffians, called Donez, or the the Little-Don, which muft be diftinguifhed from the great Donez that runs into the Don higher up. On the fouth channel of this river for- merly flood Afoia, a celebrated and important fortrefs, and a town of confiderable trade, which is now demolifhed. Near this place the Greeks, many cen- turies ago, built the city of Tanais, which was very famous for its trade, and, from time to time, underwent many viciffitudes. The name Afovj feems to have been given this city from the Polowzian -fPcmce A/up or Agiup, or at leaft from fome word in the Polowzian language ; for th® * This confequence is not very clear, and, I believe, will hardly be granted by the faculty, f The Author calls thefe people Pohivzier : I luppofe he cannot mean the Pales, who are never called by that name in the German language ; but are termed PoLn. O o o 2 Polcwzia is 4 68 RUSSIA. [Woronefh. Polowzians were in poffeffion of this city and territory in the eleventh and twelfth centuries, and were driven out of it by the Ruffians . Be that as it will, the R.ußans, from that time, called it Afow, which name it ftill retains. The Turks pronounce it Adfak, and it was further corrupted by feveral Authors who lbmetimes wrote it Ofow, and fometimes Kafak, or Kafawa *. From the Polowzians this city fell under the dominion of the Genoefe, who took it in the beginning of the thirteenth century, and gave it the name of Tana -j-. This town appears to have, long before, been taken from the Tartars, who were very powerful in thefe parts ; for there are Afow coins extant, on which the name of the Takt amy fs-Kan is to be feen. From the Genoefe this city fell into the hands of the 'Turks, loft its former advantages of trade, and became an inconfiderable town. In the year 1637, it was taken by the Cofaks, who defended itagainft the attack of the Turks in 1641 ; but in the following year they fet fire to the town and blew it up. Alter this the Turks rebuilt the place; and Rußa laying claim to the town in 1672, the former ftrongly fortified it. In the year 1695, the Rußans demolished the two ftrong towers which ftood before the town ; and in 1696 they took the town itfelf, which they fortified with addi- tional works; but by the treaty of peace concluded at the Prutb in 171 1, it was reftored to the Turks. In the year 1736, the Rußans became mafters of Afow once more, and put it in a good ftate of defence ; but at the treaty of peace concluded at Belgrade in 1739, they were obliged to relinquifh and entirely demolifh the town. Such were the various turns of fortune which befel this important fortrefs, of which we have a large account in the fecond Volume of the Collection of Rußan Tranfadions, in an excellent historical piece firft published fe- parately by Profefibr Beyer, and entitled, Begebenheit von Afow, i. e. ' The ? Fate of Afow.' In this DiftricT: are alio Lutik, a ftrong caftle which ftands on an illand, formed by the two chan- nels of the river Don, oppofite to Afow. It confifts of four citadels, which have a communication with each other by walls, &c. This fort was taken by the Rußans in 1696. Taganrok was a fortification and excellent harbour on the Pakts Mceotis or fea 01 Afow, built in the year 1697 by Peter the Great; but by the peace concluded at the Prutb it was demolimed and abandoned by the Rußans. The fort called Se/nenowfki, which alio lies in this Government, likewife met with the fame fate. * It is generally called Jfopb or Jfof'in the maps, -j Or ratiier Caiana. THE [469 ] THE ASIATIC PART O F T H E RUSSIAN EMPIRE. §. i.T^HE Ruffian dominions in Afia, make a confiderable part of J_ Great or Afiatic Tartary. The word Tatar * properly figni- fies the Lord or Sovereign of a country ; and confequently it cannot be originally applied to any particular Tartarian nation, much lefs to a certain river, as was formerly imagined. That the Tartars and Turks have certainly the fame origin, is evident from the fimilitude of their language, complexion, and air of their countenances. Under the* name of Tartary a part only of this vaft tracl is properly included; but cuftom has extended it to the whole country. This extenfive region has, no lefs improperly, been called Mungalia ; for it is uncertain whether the people who live more northerly or eafterly had ever any connection with thefe Tartars and Mungalians. The Takuthians, and the more remote nations differ extremely from the Tartars, properly fo called, in their cuftoms and manner of living. The country of the Siberians and OJliaks came to be looked upon as part of Tartary > becaufe thofe nations had been conquered by the Tartars, or rather by the Mungalians, who fent feveral colonies amongft them ; or becaufe it formerly belonged to the kingdom of Great Tartary, which was founded by Zingis-Kan. This diftindion muft be particularly obfcrved with regard to Rußan Tartary, we fliall therefore fpecify in the proper places, what territories are a part of Tartary, properly fo called, and what provinces do not belong to it. * The Author calls the country Tatarey and the people Tatars, which I prcfume is the ri^Iit name ; but Tartar is the name they are generally known by in Ewope. §. 2. The 470 RUSSIA. §. 2. The feas bordering on this country, and inclofed by it, have been already deicribed * ; what now remains is only to give an account of its rivers and lakes. With regard to the former the moil remarkable are, Firfl, The rivers which run into the Cajplan-Sea. Thefe are, i. The Wolga, of which we have already given an account in de- fcribing European RuJJia. 2. The Yaik, formerly called Rhymnus, has its fource among the Ura- Han mountains, Tn Latitude 54° and Longitude 87^, and after running a courfe of about 1000 Werfis, empties itfelf by two channels into the Cafpian-Sea in Latitude 47 , 30', and Longitude 74 . The principal rivers which fall into it are the Upper and Lower Kyfyl, and the Sacmara. The Talk abounds with excellent fifh, and has a very rapid current ; but in fome parts is very fhallow. Its banks near the influx of the river Sacmara are rocky : and are alfo very high and mountainous near the river Kyfyl. Oppolite the Upper Aj^y/ftands a high mountain, out of which are dug magnets or load-ftones. But the farther you go from this river, the more extenfive are the plains •, and the country is more level near the mouth of it than about its fource : However it is, for the moft part barren and fandy ; fo that corn is chiefly produced in the higher grounds for the fub- fiftance of the inhabitants. There is but little wood growing in thefe parts, except in the neighbourhood of Sacmara. 3. The Yem, or, as it is called by the Rnßans,, lemba, is a rapid, but very fhallow river ; for it is hardly five feet deep at the mouth. Its water is clear, and the banks are fertile ; but there are neither towns nor villages built on the borders of it. The Tartars of the Kafatßa Horda, who inhabit the country on the weft fide of this river, live in tents and little huts. The Tern empties itfelf into the Cafpian-Sea. 4. Gihun, which is alio called by the feveral names of Amu, Amol, Amu-Daria, Mlderglas, Sheherbas, Najjar, -f- or fimply Roud Kanem, i. e. ' the large ftream'. This river was the Oxus and Baclrus of the Ancients; and formely difembogued itfelf by two channels or mouths into the Cafpian-Sea ; but thefe are now become dry, and the ftream has been diverted by art into the fea or lake of Aral. In Cyrus's time it was the boundary [of the Per/Ian Monarchy ; and is by fome authors fuppofed to be the Araxes of the Ancients. Its fource is in the mountains of Paropamlßts. 5. Sm un, was anciently called A/ßaJh, Saert, Acfaert, Sir, Dar la, Sir der gl as, Jaxartes, and Sir Is ; but was erroneoufly thought by the Mace- donians to be the Tanals. This river has always emptied itfelf into the lake of Aral. Secondly, Thofe rivers which difcharge themfelves into the Ice-Sea, which are, * See p. 60j 13 fiq. f "im or Nahar, in the Hclreiv language fignifies a river. i. The RUSSIA. I. The famous and large river Ob or Oby, which under the name of Bi, iffues from the Altin-hke (by the Ruffians called Teleßoi-Ofero,) in Lati- tude 52° and Longitude 103°, 30'. Its name iignifles ' great;' and accordingly in Ruffia it is often called the Great River. The Kalmucks and Tartars generally give it the name of Umar. It is a very large, fmooth ftream, its current being ufually flow; and is between two and three hun- dred fathoms in breadth : But in many places it is much broader, efpecially in great floods. It abounds with fifh ; and is navigable almoft to the lake in which it fprings. The bottom of this river for a confiderable way from its fource is ftony ; but from the influx of the river Ket it is clayey. In its courfe, efpecially towards the town of Berefoia, it forms a great many iflands. The Oby in its feveral windings traverfes a long tract of land, and in Latitude 67 , and Longitude 86°, empties itfelf into a bay of the Ice- Sea, which runs eighty German miles into the land ; but the mouth of the bay, where it joins the Ice-Sea lies in Latitude 73 °, 30', and 90° Longitude. The fprings where this river rifes are not very copious ; but it receives feveral large rivers in its courfe. Thefe are, The Catuna, at the influx of which it acquires the name of Oby. The T/Jjaryß and Alei, which runs into it on the left iide. The Tßumyß, on the right fide. The T/heus and Shagarca, which falls into it on the left. The Tom and Tßulim, which laft, is called Iiufi, near its fource, and is formed by the conflux of two ftreams called the JVJjite and Black River. The Ket, which is well known on account of its proximity to the river Ienifia near its fource, falls into the Oby on the right fide ; and the Waßiga on the left. The Tym and the Wak, famous for the paflage of feveral fhips, which fail through thefe rivers and the Telogui into the Ienifia, run into the Oby on the right fide. The lugan and Irtis, and feveral other rivers empty themfelves into the Oby lower down ; among which Kafivi, on the right fide, and Sofwa, on the left, are the principal. Of all the rivers which increafe the Oby, the moft remarkable is the Tom ; it being navigable as far as the town of Kutfneß. Its fource is near the river Abakan, in Latitude 53 , and its influx into the Oby is in Latitude 58 . It receives feveral rivulets in its courfe ; but the Condoma, which runs into it on the left fide, oppofite to the town of Kutfneß, is a confiderable river. The Irtis or Irtijh rifes in the country of the Kalmuks, and in Latitude 46 30' and 103 Longitude, runs through the lake of SaiJJan ; and, after winding through a long tracl of land, falls into the Oby, in Latitude 6 1°, and 86° ot' Longitude. In this river are feveral iflands, which in fummer, when the water is low, are more numerous than during the floods in fpring. Some of thefe 47* 4 ?2 RUSSIA thefe Hlands difappear, and others feem to fupply their place. The depth of the Irtis is fo remarkably variable, that (hips can no longer pafs where they formet ly uied to do ; and on the other hand, thofe parts which were once ihaliow have now a fufficient depth of water for veffels of burden. Its water is light and clear, and abounds with fine fifh ; particularly fturgeon, the fat of which is, by the inhabitants of this country, reckoned the greateft delicacy. The Irtis on both fides receives feveral rivers. The principal of thefe, after it has paffed the fortfefs of Ufikamenogorfk. in its courfe, are the following : The Ulba, Shulba, and Uba which run into it on the right. The Zarguban, which name fignifies three oxen, on the left. The Tßernuia falls into the Irtis on the right. The Shelefenca and Tawgutßei, on the left. The river Om on the right. The Camyßlcwia on the left. The Tara, Shiß, and Tut on the right. The Ißim, Tobo/, and Konda on the left. Of thefe rivers the Ißim, the Tobo/, and the Konda are the krgeft. The Konda falls into the Irtis a little beyond the 30th degree of North Latitude. The Tobol riles from feveral fprings in Latitude 52 30', and Longitude 8i°. Its banks are fo low, that the neighbouring country is fubjecl to frequent inundations: It falls into the Irtis, in Latitude 58°, and 86° of Longi- tude. The fmaller rivers Vi, Ißt, Tura, and Taivda increafe the Tobol con- fiderably. The Ifet has its fource in a lake, and runs through the territory of Cathrincnburg ; and, after receiving, on the right, the Sifirt, Sinara, Teßa, and Mias ; and feveral fmall ftreams on the left, it difcharges itfelf into the Tobol in Latitude $J°. The Tura rifes in the mountains of Wercoturia in Latitude 59 , and falls into the Tobol in Latitude 57°, 30'. If the water of the Tura were to be deducted from that of the Tobol, the former, on the right fide, receives but a little lei's quantity of water than is contained in the Tobol, from the rivers Salda, Tagil, Niza (which is formed by the Nieva and Reß, and is enlarged by the Irbit from the right) and the Pvß;ma. The Tawda rifes about the Latitude of 63 , and Longitude 8o u , and is formed by the conflux of the Sofwa and the Lofwa, And, Something beyond the 59th degree of Latitude, and about the fame degree of Longitude runs into the Tobol. 2. The Ienisei, or Ienisea, is little inferior to the Oby. The Tartan and Moguls call this river Keen, but the OJliaks give it the name of Guck or Ke-ßs, i. e. ' The great river.' It is formed by the conflux of the two rivers Ulu-Kem and Bri-Kem, in Latitude 51 , 30', and n i°of Longitude, i'rem thence it directs its courfe almoft due North ; and in Latitude 700, •. 1 1 o V' 30' Longitude, forms a kind of bay, in which are feveral iflands : This RUSSIA. This bay runs about 3 30' in length, towards the North, in which Latitude * and the 100th degree of Longitude, at laft it joins the Ice-Sea. At the town of Ienifeiß, in autumn when this river is lowed, the breadth of it at the furface'of the water is 570, and in the fpring when it is higher!: about 795 fathoms. The bottom of the Ienifei is ftony and fandy ; and the banks, efpecially on the earl fide, are very mountainous and rocky. The fifh in this river are palatable, and its current for the moft part is rapid ; but it gradually leffens its rapidity towards the mouth ; fo that at laft it has fcarcc any appearance of a current. In that part of its courfe where it approaches the rivers Dubtßoes and Turukan, it forms feveral iflands between the towns of Ienifeijk and Krafnoiarjk ; and, below the Dubtjhes, it has fome cata- racts or waterfalls ; but is navigable from its mouth as far as the Abakan, and even higher up. A little way from its fource, the Ienij'ei receives the following rivers ; viz. The Kemtfhuk and Abakan on the left. The Tuba, Mana, Kan, and Tungufca on the right. The Kafs, Syn, and Dubtjhes on the left. The Tungufca podeamenaia, i. e. ' beyond the mountains,' and the BaSla on the right. The Telogui on the left. The Lower Tungufca on the right. The Tunica on the left ; not to mention other rivers that fall into the Ienifei near its mouth. It muft be obferved that there are three rivers called Tungufca, which all run into the Ienifei. The firft and moft northerly of thefe is called (imply Tungufca, and acquires this name after it is joined by the river Ilicn : it is called Angara from the influx of that river to its fource, which is in the lake of Baikal. Its bottom is ftony, and full of rocks, which caufe four waterfalls in this river. But it is navigated during the fummer both with and againft the ftream, though the pafTage upwards muft be attended with no fmall difficulty and hazard. 3. The Lena, which is a large river, waters the eaft part of Siberia, and rifes on the north fide of the lake of Baikal, in Latitude 52 30, and Longitude 124 30'. This river, after pervading a large tract of land in Latitude 73 , divides itfelf into five branches ; three of which run weft- ward, and two towards the eaft ; and by thefe channels it difcharges itfelf into the Ice-Sea. Its three weftern mouths lie in 153 degrees of Longitude, but the eaftern extends only as far as 143 . The current is every where very flow ; and its bed is entirely free from rocks. The bottom is fandy ; and the banks are in fome places rocky and mountainous. The principal rivers that fall into the Lena are, The Manfurca, and Culenga, which run into it on the weft or left fide. * That is, feventy-three degrees ami a half. Vol. I. Ppp The 473 474- RUSSIA. The Orlenga, on the right. The Ilga, on the left. The Kirmga, Tjhebßui, and Tßaia, on the right. The Ifßora, on the left. The Whim, the two Potamds, the Okcma, the two Talbds, and the Aldan, on the right. The Wilui, on the left, &c. Among all thefe, the Whim, Okcma, Aldan, and Wilui have the longeft courfe. The Whim is faid to owe its fource to a great number of lakes, which have a communication with each other by natural channels. Among other rivers, it receives two ftreams called Mama, celebrated for a tranfparent foffile called Marienglas, or Mußovy-glaß, dug along its banks. The courfe of the Wilui is in i6 , 30' before it joins the Lena. The river Aldan receives, on the right or the eaft fide, the Ufßun and Maia, and on the oppoiite fide the Iudcma. There is a paflage for veflels from the Lena and Aldan through the Maia and Iudoma, almoft to the fource of the latter j from which, after a journey of twenty German miles by land, a traveller may go down the Urack by water into the Sea of Ka?ntß:atka *. We come 'Thirdly, To thofe rivers which difcharge themfelves into the Eaßern Ocean. Thefe are, 1. The Amur, a large and celebrated ftream formerly called Karan- muran ; but, at prefent, the Chineß and Manßmriam give it the name of Sagal/'n-Ula. It is alfo called Tamur, Onon, Helong-Kiang, and Skilka. The Amur is formed by the conflux of the rivers Skilk and Argun ; is navigable a great way from its mouth ; and abounds with fifli. The length of its courfe is four hundred German or geographical miles. 2. The Ud, or Uda 3 is the only confiderable river that runs into the Sea of Kamtßiatka. 3. The Penskina, which gives name to the gulf of Pcnßnnßa. 4. The Anadir, a confiderable river which runs into the Eaßern Ocean. §. 3. The principal lakes in the Aßatic Part of the Ruffian Empire are, 1 . The Aral *, which lies not far from the Cafpian-Sea, and is one of the largeft lakes in all Aßa. Its length from North to South is faid to be thirty German or geographical miles, and its breadth from Eaft to Weft is about half as much. Its water is very fait ; and on that account it is conveyed by the neighbouring Karacalpach, the Kaßtß:a-Horda, and the Turkomanians, by fmall narrow canals into fandy pits, where the heat of the fun, by ex- haling the water, provides them with a fufficient quantity of fait for their neceflary ufes. The fame fpecies of fifh are found in this lake as in the Caß- pian-Sea ; and he Aral, like die latter, has no vifible outlet. * This is a bay of the Eaßern Ocean. f This is called the Sea of Aralla the map?, 2. The Tartary.] RUSSIA. 475 2. The Baikal-hke, by the neighbouring people called Siviatoie-More, or * the holy lake,' extends in length from Weft to Eaft five hundred IVcr/ls ; but from North to South it is but twenty or thirty in a direct line, and in fbme parts only fifteen Werßs. It is entirely furrounded by high mountains. This lake does not begin to freeze till about Chri/lmas, and thaws about the beginning of May ; from which time to September a fhip is feldom wrecked upon it ; but by the high winds, which blow in that month, many veifels are loft on this lake. When fuch ftorms happen, the inhabitants that live near the Baikal imagine, that by complimenting it with the name of a Sea they render the lake propitious, and are preferved againft all the dangers it feems to threaten. In that part of it that lies near the river Bargujin, it throws up an inflamable liquid called Maltha *, which the inhabitants of the adjacent country burn in their lamps. There are alfo feveral fulphureous fprings near the Baikal-lake. Its water at fome diftance appears of a fea-green colour ; it is veiy frefli, and fo clear that one may fee objects to the depth of feveral fathoms in it. In this lake great plenty of large fturgeon and pyke, and feveral black, but no fpotted feals are caught. This lake contains feveral iflands ; and the borders of it are haunted by black fables and civet-cats. 3 . The Altin-\ake, called by the Rußians Teleßoi-Ofero, from the Tcleß, a Tartarian nation who live on the borders or it. The Tartars call it Altin-Kul, and the Kalmucks give it the name of Altinnor. It is about eighteen German or geographical miles in length, and twelve in breadth. The north part of this lake is fometimes frozen fo hare, as to be pafläble on foot; but the fouth part is never covered with ice. The bottom is ftcep and rocky. The water in the Altin-\zke, and alfo in the rivers that run through the adjacent parts, contrary to what happens in other lakes, &c. rifes only in the midft of fummer, when the great heats diffolve the lhow on the mountains, which had withftood the rays of the vernal fun. We now proceed to the Defcription of the country itfelf, where we firft meet with The West and South Pa r t of RUSSIAN r A R TART, TITHICH, from time immemorial, has made part of the Rujfan dominions ; Y " and belongs to Tartary properly fo called. This countiy is inhabited by various nations, of which we fhall give a concife account. * This is a kind of liquid fulphur» P p p 2 i. The 476 RUSSIA. [Bielogorod. 1. The Circaßans, who inhabit the country lying to the north-weft part o the Cafpian-Sea, between Georgia and the mouth of the Wolga. Circafßa is above iixty German miles in length, and of an equal breadth ; and is partly fubjecl to Ruffia, and partly under the dominion of the Crim-Ka7i : How- ever, fome of the inhabitants ftill preferve their independency. The Cir- caßans, and efpecialiy the women, have the reputation of being the moft beautiful of all the eaftern nations. Prince Cantemir, in his Hiftory of the Ottoman Empire, fays, that they may be juftly termed the French Tartars, becaufe they continually invent new fafhions both as to their drefs and their arms ; and that the other Tartars never fail to imitate thefe modes ; and generally fend their children among them for education. As to their religion, they feem to be Half-Mahometans ; for they ufe circumci- fion and other Mahometan rites ; but have no Mulhas * or Mofques, and ex- prels no veneration for the Koran. They are moftly employed in hunting, feeding of cattle, and agriculture. That part of their country that borders on the Cafpian-Sea is very barren ; but towards Dagheflan and Georgia the foil is exceeding fertile. The Circaßan horfes are far from being hand- fome ; but as they are hardy and fpirited, they bear a good price. 2. The Grebinian and Taik Co/ah, the latter of which live near the river Taik. Mention has been made of thefe tribes in our account of the Government of Kiew. 3 . The Great Nogayans. Thefe are Mahometan Tartars, and live near the Cafpian-Sea, between the Wolga and the Taik. They fubfift by hunt- ing, and feeding of cattle ; and fome of them are employed in agriculture. Great numbers of the Nogayans have been converted to the Greek religion. 4. The Torgautians or rather the Torgut-Kalmuks, who inhabit the country that lies between the Wolga and the Taik, are Kalmuks and Pagans. Torgnt fignifies the illuftrious tribe, or the great, noble, celebrated Horde j and the Torgutes are thought by the learned to be the Thyjfagetes or Thyrfa- vetes, mentioned by Herodotus the hiftorian, above 2000 years ago. 5. The Tßwemißans and Tß.navaßxans, of whom we have fpoken in our account of the Government of Nißneinowgorod. 6. The Wotiakians, who belong to the Government of Kafan, lire in a very favage and fordid manner. They, indeed, believe in a fupreme Being, whom they term Tumar, and imagine that he refidcs in the fun ; but they neither worfhip, nor pay him any regard. On any exigency they repair for advice and afiiftance to a certain perfon whom they call Dona. They fpeak both the Tartarian and Ruffian languages; and fubiift chiefly by hunting. 7. The Tartars of the Government of Kafan. Thefe profefs the Ma- hometan religion ; and are moie civilized and decent in their behaviour than tlv Tji.crcmißians and Wotiakians. * The Muihas are Mahometan pricfts; their temples are called Mofjucs; and the Koran ccm- monlv called the Alcoran, is their facred buok, writt«n by Mahomet. 1 8. The Aftracan.] RUSSIA. 477 8. The Bafiikirian and Vfian Tartars, who alfolive within the Government of Kafan. The former inhabit the country that lies towards the Eaft, be- tween the river Kama, the mountains of Ural, and the // 'ga ; but the latter live in the north part of that Government. They live toj intermarry, without mixing with other nations. Thcle Tartars are fire and well-made. They have broad faces, a brown complexion, black hair, and long beards. Their drefs is not unlike that of the are excellent horfemen ; and remarkable for their valour and d in managing their bows and arrows. As to their religion, they may ra be accounted Heathens than Mahometans, circumcifion and few other cere- monies being all that they practice of the latter : Some of them, indeed, have been converted to the Greek religion. They live in towns or village?, and employ themfclves in hunting, feeding of cattle, and agriculture: Tiny have alio plenty of honey and furrs. They ufualiy threfb their corn In the field before they bring it home. They pay their tribute in the produce of their country, as corn, wax, honey, cattle and furrs. Though they have a great number of hogs, they never eat any pork. They uie both horfes and dromedaries for travelling, &c. They take as many wives as they can maintain, and give horfes in exchange for them : fometimes fix or (even horfes are given for a wife. Both the Bajhkirian and Vfian Tartars have feveraL times, and particularly towards the clofe of the year 1735, at- tempted to (hake off the Ruffian yoke ; but were foon reduced to obedience. After this, upon their requefting a new form of government, a Ruffian Starjhine or Judge, and a Sotnik or Prefect have been fet over every Dis- trict; and a kind, of Overleer is appointed in every village; fo that all opportunities of future revolt feem to be taken from them, efpecially as there are feveral fortrefles built in this country by way of a further check upon them. We fhall, in the next place, treat of every province, or Government, in particular. I. The GOVENRNMENT of A S r R A C A N$ Called in the Ruffian language AsTRACANAIA GuBERNlIA. HpHIS province contains the ancient Tartarian Kingdom of Aßracan, •* which, in year 1554, was conquered by the Czaar Evan Bqßtdwiiz ; and includes the country lying on the north and partly on the weit ült of 47» RUSSIA. [Aftracan. of the Cafpian-Sea. The heat here is fo intenfe in fummer, that, according to obfervations made at Aßracan by M. Lerch, the Thermometer fometimes rifes to above a hundred, and even to a hundred and three degrees and a half according to Fahrenheit" s Scale ; though Boerhaave, in his Elemen. Chym. p. 192, afferts, that a heat above the ninetieth degree of Fahrenheit's Thermo- meter would be more than human creatures could bear; and that all animals, of which he had any knowledge, foon expired in fuch a degree of heat. The Steppe, or wide defert plain of Aßracan, according to the account given us by travellers, is a dreary wafte, without water or verdure ; and towards the coaft of the Cafpian-Sea it is faid to be very fandy. In the neighbourhood of Aßracan, are fmall lakes and ponds fo impregnated with fait, that fometimes it incrufts the furface of the water like ice. This faline incruftation is fo thick that one may fecurely walk on it ; and fait is likewife found at the bottom of the ponds in the form of cryftal falts. The Arbufes, or water-melons, that grow about Aßracan are accounted the beft in the Ruffian Empire ; and the vines, which have been planted here, thrive extremely well. The mod remarkable places in this Government are, Aßracan, which is the capital, the refidence of the Governor, and a Bifhop's See, {lands near the Cafpian-Sea on an ifland formed by the Wolga ; and in the Rujßan language is called Do/goi, which fignifies long. It is almoft a German mile in circuit, and is furrounded with a good ftone-wall ; and oppofite to it ftands a fort. Among the Rußian churches in this city the Cathedral is the moft elegant and the lateft built. The Lutherans have a church here; as have alfo the Armenians, who, to the number of forty families, refide here for the fake of trade. Aßracan has always been remarkable for its commerce ; and above thirty different nations refort hither to traffic. A garrifon of 3000 men is always kept in this city. Krafnoiiar, a fmall town, ftands on the Wolga and is inclofed with a kind of wooden wall. This town, with the next following, keep a watchful eye upon the roving Cahnuks, who often bring their cattle to graze here- abouts. The name of this town fignifies ' a red bank.' Tfljernoiiar, a little town in the Steppe, or defert, on the bank of the Wolga. It is fortified with eight wooden towers and ftrong barricadoes, againft the incurfions of the Cofaks. As thefe fortifications were eredled in the reign of the Great Duke Michael, the town is alfo called Michaile- Novogrod. Xarizin, a fmall town on the Wolga, furrounded with wooden redoubts and towers. Its garrifon watches the motions of the Tartars and Cofaks t ■ againft the incurfions of which a ftrong line, called the Zariziu-Liue, has been drawn from the Wolga to the Don. Along this line the forts Met- ßionaia, Gratß:i, Ozokor, and Donjkaia are erected. Gurieiv, Orenburg.] RUSSIA. Guriew, a fmall place on an ifland, formed by the river Talk, at its mouth where it falls into the Cafpian-Sea. Taik, or Taitzskoi Gorodok, a large town fituated on the river 'Talk. It carries on a very considerable trade, and has a good fifhery : and is famous for the Caviere made in this town. On the weft fide of the Cafpian-Sea ftands Kißiarskaia, a fortrefs near the river Terek. On the fame river are alfo fome other inconfiderable places, as Sßjedrin, Tf/jerwlenoi , &c. The Rußans have extended their conquefts on this fide of the Cafpian- Sea a great way towards the South, both under the Emperor Peter I. in 1722 , and ftill farther in the reign of the Emprefs Anne. For the Per- ßam, by the treaty of peace concluded in 1732 at Ratßm in the province of Ghilan, for ever ceded to Rußia a trad; of land along the coaft of the Cajpian-Sea of above fixty German miles in length, and comprehending die provinces of Dageßan and Shirwan. But as multitudes of the Ruffian foldiers died in this warm climate, fo different from their own ; and as the revenues of the provinces did not anfwer the charges of keeping up the troops ; Ruffia evacuated thefe conquefts in exchange for the privilege of an unlimited commerce throughout all the Perfian dominions. At prc- fent, the river Terek is the limits betwixt Rußia and Perfia. 479 II. The Government of O R E N E U R G. f J^HIS Government lies in the province of Ufa, and has been but lately -*- eredled. It has its name from The town and fortrefs of Orenburg, which was built in 1738 by order of the Emprefs Anne, at the conflux of the Or and the Taik. But that fituation being found inconvenient, the inhabitants were removed, and the town built lower down on the Taik in 1740. This town was defigned to protect the new fubjeös who, from time to time, put themfelves under the protection of the Rißiam, and to promote the trade with the people that live more towards the South. Since the eftablifhment of a confiderable commerce here, all Ruffian and Afiatic merchants are permitted, on paying a certain duty, to fell their goods by wholefale or retail j and all European foreign merchants are allowed to bring their goods from the harbours and frontier towns to Orenburg. The other places of note belonging to this Government are, Ozernoi, Bordinßoi, and llek, which are forts on the river Taik. Sakmarsk. 480 RUSSIA. [Käfan; Sahnarsk, a little town on the river Sakmara. Ufa, a fortified provincial town, fituated on a river of the fame name. Kandara, a fortrefs on a lake of the fame name ; and Menzelinsk is alfo a fortrefs on the river Menzelia. Kungitr. Near this town is a remarkable cavern of chalk ; the infide of which is fo curioufly formed by Nature, that no traveller, who pafles this way, omits feeing it. It is faid to have been formerly inhabited by fome Rußans, who fled thither for fhelter againft the incurfions of the Baskirians ; and to this it is owing that a wooden crofs is ftill to be feen in the cave- On the Steppe, or defert, are alfo the forts of Atßntzkaia and Bifert, fo called from the rivers on which they ftand. III. The Government of KASAN. ' I % HIS Government is of greater extent than the ancient kingdom of Kafan, which was conquered in the year 1552 by the Czaar fovan Bafilowitz. It contains 1. The Circle of Kasan, called in the Ricf/ia?i language Kafanskoi Uiezd. Places of note in this Diftricf are, Kafan, the capital of this Government. It ftands on the river Kafanka, which, about a German mile from this place, runs into the Wolga. In the Tnrkijh and Tartarian languages Kafan fignifies a cauldron large enough to contain victuals for many perfons ; and this name the Grim and Budziak Murfes give to the families of their fubjecls or vaflals, about ten men being reckoned to a Kafan. This city confifts of a flrong fort built with ftone, the Wooden Town, as it is called, and feveral adjoining S Modes or Suburbs; and among thefe there is one inhabited by Tartars, in which are four Met- ficds. Here are about fifty churches almoft all of them built with ftone, and eleven convents, in and near the town. In the fort is the Government's Chancery, which is under the direction of the Governor and Deputy- Governor. The Governor of the fort has all the garrifons and regiments within the Government under his command. The garrifon of the city confifls of two regiments, for the fervice of which a very good hofpital is provided. Kafan is alfo an Archbiihop's See ; and the nunnery of the Virgin Mary in this city boafts of a miraculous image of the Blcifed Virgin. Ac one end of the town is a cloth manufactory ; and all the cloth is bought up at a fet price by the Crown, in order to clothe the lbldiers. In the convent Kafan.] RUSSIA. 4 g r convent of Silandoivo, which Stands on the river Kafanka about two Werßs from the town, is a fchool where the children of TShuaShian, Tfheremif- fian, Mordunian Calmuks and Tartars are taught the RuJJian and Latin languages, the principles of the Chriftian religion, and the elements of Phi- lofophy, in order to qualify them as preachers for the conversion of the nations to which they belong. In 1749 and 1752 this city was totally de- stroyed by fire. The Rußians firSt made themfelves mafters of this important place on the third of OSlober 1552. Lai/hew, a fmall town on the river Kama, where the veflels laden with fait from Permia arrive every year; and the mafters hire men to draw them up the Wolga from hence to Niß.meinowogrod. About feventy IVerjh from Kafan, and not far from the river Kama, are to be feen the ruins of the ancient city of Bulgar, which was formerly the capital of the Bulgarians. Peter the Great, in the year 1722, when he went on his expedition againft the Perfians, vifited thefe ruins, and gave orders for copying and translating into the Ruffian language feveral Armenian and Turkijh monumental inscriptions Sound among them. Bulgaria ftill makes a part of the Czaar's titles. Staro Shejiminsk, and No-wo Sheßminsk, on the river Shefma, which runs into the Kama ; and alfo Biliarsk on the river Maloi, Tinsk on the fmall river Tnia, and Sainsk are fortrefles in this Circle. Malmyß, a fmall town on the river Wiatka. Sarapul, which Stands on the river Kama, is a fmall town, or rather a fortrefs with a Slobode or Suburb. OJJa, a fortification and Slobode or Suburb on the Kama. About five Werfis from this fort is a copper-work. 2. The Circle of Sinbirsk, called Sinbirßoi Uiezd in the Ruffian language. In this Circle are, Simbirsk, a pretty large provincial city, which Stands on the Wolga. Bieloiiar, Syßran, Kaßypor, and Saratov, are fmall towns on the Wolga. Petroivß on the river Medweditza, Sursk, on the river Sura, Pogoreloi, Vren, Karfiin, and Tagai are fmall places in this Circle. 3. The Circle of Pensisk, in the RuJJian language Penfinskoi Uiezd. In this DiStricl are, Pen/a, a provincial city on the river Sura. Ramfaisk, Mokßiaisk, Temar, and Saransk are fmall places in this Circle. 4. The Circle of Alatyrsk, called by the Ruffians Alatyrskoi Uiezd. In this Circle lies Alatyr, a provincial town, fituated on the river Sura. 5. The Circle of Swiiask, in the Ruffian language Swiiaskoi Uiezd. In this Circle lies Swiiask, a provincial cky fituated on the Wolga. Vol. I. Qjiq 6, The 4 -82 RUSSIA. [Kafan. 6. The Circle of Zywilsk, called by the Ruffians Zywihkoi Uiezd. The only place of note in this Circle is Zyioilsk, a fmall town. 7. The Circle of Tshebaksar, in the Rußan language TßebaifarskoiUiezd. In this Circle lies Tßoebakfar, a handfom provincial town on the river Wolga. 8. The Circle of Kusmodemiansk, in Rußan called Kufmodemianskoi Uiezd. In this Circle are, Kujmodemiamk, a fmall town on the Wolga. Wafiligorod, a fmall town, which ftands on an eminence. 9. The Circle of Kokshaisk, called in the Rußan language Kokßmskoi Uiezd, in which lies Kokßaisk, a fmall mean town on the river Kokßmga. 10. Carewo Kokshaiskoi Uiezd, or Circle, in which lies Karewo Kokß:aisk, on the river Kokßjaga. 11. Carewo Santshurskoi Uiezd, or Circle, in which Samezurß, a fmall place, lies. 12. The Circle of Yaransk, in the Rußan language laranskoi Uiezd, takes its name from Yaransk the provincial town. 13. The Circle of Ursum, in which lies the town of Urfum, on a river of the fame, which runs into the Wiatka. 14. The Circle of Klynow, called by the Ruffians Klynoivskoi Uiezd, or Wyatskaie Provinciia, i. e. ' the Wiatsk Province.' In this Province are, Klynow, a provincial town on the river Wyatka. Orlow, or Orel, a fmall place on the fame river. Sheflakowy which alfo ftands on the Wiatka, and Wolynshi are two mean places. 15. The Circle of Kaigorodok, by the Rußans ca'led Kaigorodojkoi Uiezd. The only place of note in this Circle is Kaigorodok, a fmall town on the river Kama, the inhabitants of which fublift partly by agriculture, but chiefly by filhing. 16. The Circle of TsHERDYN,in the Rußan language Tßxrdymskoi Uiezd, This is a part of the ancient Permia ; and in it lies Tßjerdyn, a provincial city on the river Koiitui. It is a Bifhop's See, and has a German Ichool. j j. The Circle of Soli kamskai a, called by the Ruffians Solikarjskoi Uiezd. In this Circle, which is alfo a part of the ancient Permia lies Solikatnskaia, a provincial city, on the river Ußblka, confifting of about fix hundred wooden houfes, feveral churches built with ftone, two con- vents, &c. This town is famous for its many falt-pans where fait is made, which like all the reft that is boiled in Permia, is accounted the belt Siberia.] RUSSIA. + g beft in Ruffia, whither great quantities of it arc exported. Thefe falt- works belong to forty-eight private perfons; however, feveral of them are not wrought at prefent, and the number of them frequently varies. There is alfo a German fchool in this town. The Pyßkora copper-works fland on the little river Pyßkora, which falls into the Kama. The ore is brought hither from feveral mines, with which this country abounds. To the monaftery which ftands near the works belong twenty-fix falt-pans in the village Diiadukinä, which confifts of about two hundred houfes. The monks have alfo four more, about feveft Werfis below the village. 1 8. The Barony of Straganow. This Diftrict contains many towns and villages. The Baron has in the village of Lenwa twenty-feven falt-works, and forty in the large and hand- fome village of Nowo-UJJblie ; which are divided into what the Ruffians call Werchnoi and Niß.moi Promysk. But fome of thefe works are at a ftand. • SIBERIA-, Or the Northern and Eastern Parts of GREAT 3 TARTARS Which were lately added to the Russian Dominions. §. I. '"Tp HE name Sibiria, or Siberia, was originally applied, and ftill pro- ■*■ perly belongs only to the fouth part of the province of Tobolsk : But, in a more extenfive fenfe, it now includes all the northern part oi AJia, which borders on Ruffia to the Weft, on the Ice-Sea to the North, on the Eaflern Ocean towards the Eaft, and on Great Tartary to the South. Its length from Weft to Eaft is fomething above eight hundred German or geographical miles, and the breadth from North to South is about three hundred. §. 2. Siberia feems to derive its name from an old city called Sibir, which, according to a received tradition, ftood on the right fide of the river Irtis, about eighteen Werfls from Tobolsk, and was the refidence of the ancient Sovereigns of Siberia. This city alio, probably, gave name to the river Sibirka, which, in this province, falls into the Irtis. There are ftill fome ruins of a rampart to be feen on the fpot, but no other remains of a city. §. 3. The air of Siberia is, in general, extremely piercing ; and we learn from authentic obfervations that the cold here is more fevere than in any Qjl q 2 . other 484 RUSSIA. [Siberia. other part of the Rttßan dominions. The Siberian rivers are frozen very early, and it is late in the fpring before the ice is thawed. The fnow often falls in September, and is frequently feen on the ground in May. If the corn does not come to maturity in Anguß, there is little hopes _of a harveft in this country ; and in the province of Ienifcisk it is fometimes covered with fnow before the peafants can reap it. The earth is never thawed to any confiderable depth in Siberia. M. Gmelin, having, on the eighteenth of "June O. S. caufed the earth to be dug near Iakutzk, where the ground was high found the depth thawed to be fcarce four feet from the furface ; and in low places it did not exceed three feet. Near fort Argunsk, which is but little beyond the fiftieth degree of North Latitude, the inhabitants acquainted him, that in feveral places the foil was not thawed to above the depth of an ell and a half ; and that this internal froft made it very difficult to come at any fprings. M. Gmelin obferved that the quickhlver funk to a hundred and twenty degrees of Fahrenheit's Scale at Ienifiisk, which is a degree of cold never felt hitherto in any other country on the globe. But Providence feems the more liberally to have dealt out to the inhabitants of this country wood for fuel, and furrs which they make ufe of to preferve them againft the feverity of the weather. Even ice itfelf is by them, in fome meafure, converted into a fence againft the cold : For in the northern parts, particularly at Iakutzk, it is ufual to hew a piece of tranfparent ice of the fize of the hole which ferves the peafants for a window ; and having placed it on the outfide, they fprinlde a little water at the edges which immediately freezes, and cements the ice in the hole. This ice- window keeps out the wind and cold without much diminifhing the light. Thofe who have glafs-windows befides, place them on the infide of the hole, that the houfe may not be incommoded by the cold and moift effluvia of the ice; but this inconveniency the common people do not regard. Beer is feldom known to freeze in the cellars, when the holes for admitting the light are thus flopped with a piece of ice. As the winter-days in the north parts of Siberia laft but few hours, and the ftorms and flakes of fnow darken the air fo much, that the inhabitants even at noon cannot fee to do any thing without artificial lights, they fleep away the greateft part of that feafon. In thofe parts where the river Ienifei empties itfelf into the Ice-Sea, the Northen Lights make their appearance from the beginning of OcJober till Chrißmas ; and the corrufcations of one kind of them are faid to be very terrifying. M. Gmelin thinks this to be the place where the Aurora Borealis is to be feen in its greateft perfection. Thefe fevere winters are fucceeded by warm and delightful fummers ; and the heat is fo intenfe that the Tungu/ians, who inhabit the province of Iakutzk, go almoft naked. Llere is hardly any night during that feafon; and towards the Frozen Ocean the fun appears continually above the Hor- rizon. The vegetables and fruits of the earth are here extremely quick in Siberia.] RUSSIA. 4 8 5 in their growth. Thunder is feldom heard near the Ice-Sea, on the coafl: of which the thunder-claps are faid to be fo faint, as fcarcely to ftrike the ear ; but the lightning may be feen very plainly in that climate. On the contrary, the fouth part of Siberia is fubject to very dreadful tempefls. §. 4. In the north part of Siberia neither corn nor fruit grows; lb that the whole trad: of land that lies beyond the fixtieth degree of Latitude is a barren wafte : However, barley is known frequently to come to perfec- tion in Iakutzk. On this account, the inhabitants of thofe northern parts are obliged to live on fifh and flefh ; but the Ruffians are fupplied with corn from the fouthern : For in thofe parts of Siberia the fertility of the foil is furprifing. The countries that lie beyond the lake of Baikal, efpecially to- wards the Eaft as far as the river Argun, are remarkably fertile and pleafant: But by the fupine indolence of the inhabitants feveral fruitful trails of land, which would make ample returns to the peafant for cultivating them, lie neglected. The paftures are excellent ; and one meets with vaft numbers of fine horned cattle, horfes, goats, &c. in this country, on which the Tartars chiefly depend for fubfiftence. However, there are feveral fleppes, or barren wafles, and unimproveable tracts in thefe parts ; and not one fruit-tree is to be feen. As for vegetables, here is a great variety ; and in feveral places, particularly near Krafnaia S/oboda, the ground is, as it were, over-run with afparagus of an extraordinary height and delicious flavour. The bulbs of the Turkifh Bundes, and other forts of lilies, is much ufed by the Tartars inffead of bread. Their want of fruit, &c. is richly com- penfated by the great plenty of tame and wild bcafts and fowls, and the vafl: variety of fine fiih, among which are the Sturgeon and the Sterled, which this country affords. Provifions are fo cheap, that in feveral places a pud or thirty-fix pounds of meal may be bought for five or eight, and a pud of the fineft beef for twenty or thirty Copciks. In that part of Siberia which lies near the Ice-Sea, and feveral other places, no trees, but fhrubs and bufhes, grow ; but the greateft part of this country produces large woods of pine, larch, and other trees : Belides, a coniiderable quantity of wood is thrown afhore by the waves of the Ice-Sea. The Siberian cedar, called in Latin Pinus foliis quinis, cono erecto, nucleo eduli, grow to a great height and thicknefs ; and the pine- apples, which they produce, are very large, and contain fmall nuts with a thin blackiih (hell, in which are very palatable white kernels that are much admired. Thefe nuts alfo yield an oil, which the Ruffian gentry make ufe of inftead of butter for paftry, and frying fiih in lent and other .fafts. §. 5. Not to mention the great quantity of wild fowl, as moor-hens, par- tridges, woodcocks and fnipes ; here is an incredible number of wild qua- drupeds; fome of which are eatable, and others valuable for their fkins or furrs. The Argati, which are alfo called Stepnie Baranni or wild fheep, the DßQ- 4 86 RUSSIA. [Siberia. DßiolaBßian, the Gaadinadatfii, the Kytxp and Kulan, refemble roe-bucks, more than fheep ; and are a particular Ipecies of animals between thefe two. They are found about the Irtis, and from thence eaftward as far as Kamtfioatka. In the province of Irkutzk, and beyond the Baikal-lake is a kind of deer called the Ifubr ; but the inhabitants that live near the river Irtis, call this creature Maral, and the Tartars about the Yenefei give it the name of Syn. This ipecies is alfo diftinguifhed by the feveral appellations of Mahne-, Meyimie, Büha, Kümaka and Kumakä. Here are two kinds of wild goats, one in the province of Irkut/k, which are called Dfiers, and perfectly refemble the roe-buck, except that they have horns like the fhamois, which they never fhed : The other kind is called Saiga, and are very frequent near the fource of the Irtis ; but are to be found in no odier part of Siberia. This Saiga is not unlike the fhamois, except that the horns are quite ffraight and have no branches. Their horns are femi-tranfparent, and much ufed to make handles for knives, daggers, &c. The animal called Saiga beyond Krafnaiarfi, and over the whole province of Irkutzk and the Government of Iakutzk is the niufk or civet-cat. The Kofi or roe-buck, the Socaty or elk, rein-deer, hares, the Kabari or wild boars, and bears are well known in Siberia. The Tjhigiiai or wild mules in the pro- vince of Irkutzk refemble a bay horfe ; but their tail is like that of a cow, and their ears of an enormous length : However, they are very fwift. The animals whole fkins are moll valued are the black fox, the fable, the hyena, the ermine, the fquirrel, the beaver, and the lynx. The fkin of a real black fox is more valuable than even that of a Sable. In the country that lies near the Frozen Ocean are alio found blue and white foxes. The fin eft Sables come from Nertßnnjk and lakutjk; where thofe animals are caught by the inhabitants, in the mountains of Stannowoi Krebet. It is ufual in thofe parts for ten or twelve men to form themfelves into a fociety, and fhare all the Sables they take. One of the members is chofen as chief, to whom all the reft muft pay obedience, or be well drubbed, or banifhed out of the fociety. Before they fet out, they never fail to make a vow of giving fomething of their capture to the church. Several Tartars alfo apply themfelves to the hunting of Sables, and purfue them very dexteroufly through all their ihifts. For when the Sable finds no means of efcaping its pur- fuers, it climbs up the higheft tree within fight ; but the hunters immediately fet fire to the tree, and fpreading out a net catch the Sable as it leaps down to avoid the flames, and thus he becomes their prey. By the great value fet on Sables, the number of thefe animals is very much decreafed; and, what is no fmall detriment to the crown, great numbers have been caught, and fold clandeftinely, notwithftanding the fevereft prohibitions. Formerly the tributary nations were obliged to pay their tribute in the fkins of Sables and foxes only ; But now the fkins of fquirrels, bears, rein-deer, &c. and fometimes money is received by way of tribute ; and this not only 5 from Siberia.] RUSSIA. 4 8 7 from thofe that live near the Lena, but alfo in the Governments of Ilinß, Irkutzk, Selenginsk and Nertßiinks. When the Tartars where firfl made tributary to the Ruffians, they brought their furrs indifcriminately as they had caught them, and among them were often fables of extraordinary value j and formerly if any trader brought with them an iron kettle, they filled it with Sables, and gave as many as it held in exchange for that utenfil : But now they are better acquainted with the value of them. They fell their fables at a very high price to the fmugglers ; and of their gains pay only a Rubel inftead of a fkin into the Revenue-Office ; which now receives more ready money than Sables by way of tribute. The fubjedts plead the fcarcity of furrs, and, I have already obferved, not without fome appearance of truth. The Hyena is a very crafty animal, watching other creatures with very lingular addrefs, in order to execute that by cunning, which it could not do by open force ; and is equally artful in avoiding the fnares and contrivances of men. It keeps an eye upon fawns, young elks, rein-deer, civet-cats, roe-bucks, hares, fquirrels, foxes, and young partridges ; and either watches them on a tree, from whence it fprings upon them, and fattens on their neck with its teeth, of furprifes them in their lares or dens. The hyena often devours the animals caught in the toils of the hunters ; and confequently does them a confiderable damage. This creature runs from fouth to north, and from north to fouth, in queft of its prey, and is extremely voracious * j but the opinion that it fqueezes itfelf between two trees to force out its excre- ments and make room for additional food, wants confirmation. This animal in Siberia is called RoJJbmak. As for fquirrels, the blackeft, which are indeed the fmalleft, are caught in the above-mentioned mountain of Staunowoi Krebet. Thofe of Berefow are larger ; but their furr is of an afh-colour. The filvercol-oured fquirrels of Tfelut are famous all over Siberia for their largenefs ; and are, by fome, preferred even to the black fort. The flying fquirrels fcarce re- ferable the common fpecies, except in their manner of climbing up trees. The flying fpecies have more the appearance of a rat ; and have a ftrong tegument from the hind to the fore leg on both fides, which is above an inch broad, and can be contracted or dilated as the animal pleafes. This mechanifm enables it to fly a little way. The tail is not fo ion" as that of a fquirrel, and is of a dark yellowifh colour. The whitifh beavers are tame, and friendly to mankind, who, in re- turn, have purfued and deflroyed fuch numbers of them, that they are become very fcarce in Siberia. The greateft number of them is found at prefent, in the country that lies near the fource of the river Ienefei, and the banks of the Oby ; but the largeft are thofe of Kamtßatka. * The German name Vidfras fignifies a glutton. §.6. Siberia RUSSIA [Siberia. §. 6. Siberia has ftiil other, and more valuable trealures, than what we have yet enumerated. The fiber mines of' Argun are very rich, and the filver they produce yields fome gold. Both filver and gold are likewife found among the copper ore oi'Kclyivan. This country is alfo particularly rich in copper and iron ore. The former lies even on the iiirface of the earth ; and the mountains of Picktoin, Koliwan, Ploskaii, Woskrefensk, Kujwi, and Alapaick are full of it ; and, not to mention feveral others, the Government of Krafnoiarski affords feveral copper mines. Iron is hull more plentiful there, and of a very good fort : but that of Kamenski is reckoned the beft. From the copper and iron fmelting houfes feveral hundred thoufands of puds are annually exported. Thefe works bJong partly to the Crown, and partly to private perfons; and among the latter M. Demido-iv, a Counfellor of State, has the largeft ihare : Mod of them lie in the Government of Cathr'menburg. The 'Tartars alio extracl: a great quantity of iron from the ore. Several forts of precious Hones are alfo found in Siberia, The topazes of this country have fuch a fine luftre, that he muft be a very good judge who can diftinguifh a Siberian from an Oriental topaz. Single fmall pieces of Agate are found near the Argun in open fandy places, and on the banks of other rivers and lakes. Here are alfo Carnelians, and green Jafper with red veins : the latter is chiefly to be met with in the Gobiskoi delerts. The famous Marienglas or Lapis Specularis * is dug up in great quan- tities in Siberia. The ftone or Matrix in which it is found is partly a light yellow Quartz or Marcajjia, and partly a brown indurated fluid ; and this ftone contains it in all the fpecies of the Marienglas. The mod tranfpa- rent, which is like pure water, is accounted the beft, and that of a greenifh tinge is looked upon as the worfl fort. Next to the colour, its fize is moft regarded. Some pieces have been found of an ell and a quarter, an ell and a half, or an ell and three quarters fquare -f : but thefe are not very common. Hence a very high value is fet upon them ; and a Rubel or two a pound is readily paid for a piece of an ell fquare. As for the more common fort, a pud of that of a quarter of an ell fquare is fold for nine or ten Rubels. But the very worfl: fort, which is ftitched together, is fold for a Rubel and a half or two Rubels a pud. To render the Mufcovy-glqfs fit -for ufe, it is fplit with a thin two-edged knife ; but care is taken that the la- mince be not too thin. It is ufed for windows and lanterns all over Si- beria, and looks very beautiful ; its luftre and clearnefs furpafling that of the fineft glafs. In the villages and many fmall towns of Rußa, it is ufed for window-panes ; and lanterns are made of it in every part of the Empire. It is preferable to glafs for windows and lanterns on board a fhip, as it * This is a particular fpecies of tranfparent ftone lying in ßrata like fo many fheets of paper ; and is by fome called Mufcovy or Rußan-glafs, and by others, lefs properly, ifinglafs. + As ells vary in every country I cannot pretend to determine how many inches we muft allow to an ell. ftands Siberia.] RUSSIA. 4 8 9 ftands the cxplofion of cannon, which v-, apt to fplit other glafs, though it be ever fo thick. The Marienglas is_ found in the greateft quantity about the river Whim. Siberia affords magnets of an extraordinary fize, and even whole moun- tains of load-ftones. Pit-coal is dug up in the north parts of this country. The Kamentioie Maflo is a yellowifh kind of alum : It is unctuous and fmooth to the touch like tophus, and exudes from blackifh a flratum of alum. It is found in fcveral mountains of Siberia, namely, thofe of the Krafnoiarfk, Ural, Altaife, Tenifea, Baikal, Bargujik, Lena, &c. §. 7. It is remarkable that Siberia contains not only frefii-water lakes, of which there are a great number in this country, but alio ieveral lakes whofe waters are fait ; and that its lakes are fubject to very furprizing al- terations, a frefh-water lake being fometimes changed into a faline, and a faline lake into a frefh one. Some lakes alfo dry up, and others break out in places where none were ever feen before. Among all the faline lakes Tamußa in the province of Toboljk is the moft remarkable j for it contains a fait, which is as white as mow, and confifts entirely of cubic cryftals. Salt-water brooks, faline fprings, and a hill of fait are alfo to be met with in Siberia. The falt-fprings in the province of Irkutsk, which are about two hundred Werßs from Olecminskoi Oßrog, not far from the banks of the Kapitendei, are fo ftrongly impregnated with faline particles, that a pure white fait is by degrees accumulated to the height of feveral feet above the fpring. In the fame province lies the falt-hill, which is thirty fathoms high, and two hundred and ten fathoms in length from Eaft to Weft. This hill, as far as two thirds of its height from the bafe, is a congeries of a very hard, tranfparent fait, which confifts of large cubic cryftals, apparently without the leaft mixture of any heterogeneous fubftance. From what has been faid, it may be concluded that there are a great number of falt-works in this country. §. 8. Siberia affords a great many other things that deferve attention; and therefore they muft not entirely efcape our notice. That excellent root called Rlmbarb grows in vaft quantities in the neighbourhood of the city of Selenginjk. The curious Mamcnt's bones and horns, as they are called, which are found along the banks of the Oby, Ten.fei, Lena, and Irtijli, are unqueftionably the teeth and bones of elephants ; for they are made into combs and other utenfils like ivory. Some of thefe teeth, or horns as they are called in Siberia, are four Ruffian ells * in length, and fix inches in diameter ; and the largeft fort weigh fix or feven puds. The colour of them is like that of ivory, excepting few of them which are yellowifh, brown, or of a black inclining to blue ; and this, probably, is owing to their long continuance in the earth. Thofe that are found near the mouths of the rivers which empty themfelves into the Frozen-Ocean, or on the banks of the frefh-water lakes which lie at no very great diftance * I fuppofc the author means Arjhitm. See p. 394. Vol. I. R r r from 49° RUSSIA. [Siberia. from the Ice-Sea, where the ground is perpetually frozen, are generally very frefh : Whereas thofe that are dug up in the fouthern parts of Siberia are often foft and decayed. But whether thefe elephants teeth and bones were conveyed to thefe northern regions by the general deluge, or by any other innundation, and were by degrees covered with earth is a difquifition foreign to my purpofe. Such bones have alfo been found in Rußa, and even in feveral parts of Germany. A kind of bones of a larger fize than thefe have alfo been dug up in Siberia ; which feem to have belonged to an animal of the ox-kind. The horn of the whale called Narwhal has been found in the earth near the rivers Indigirka and the Anadir, and the teeth of another fpecies of whales called Walroß ab^ut Anadirskoi. The latter are much larger than the common fort which are brought from Green- land, Archangel, and Kola. Among the objects which deferve our notice, we muff, not forget the Siberian Volcano near Kamtßatka, where violent earthquakes are not uncommon : And they have alfo been often, though in fmaller fhocks, felt in other parts, particularly in Irkutsk and about the Baikal-lake. §.9. The chain of Siberian mountains reaches from that of Wercho- turie towards the fouth, as far as the neighbourhood of the city of Orien- burg, in a continued ridge under the name of the Uralian mountains ; but from thence it alters its polition towards the Weft. Thefe mountains are a kind of boundary, which divides Rußa from Siberia. Another chain of hills feparates Siberia from the country of the Kalmuks and Mongolians. Thefe mountains between the rivers lrtis and Oby are called the Altaic^ or the golden mountains; which name they afterwards lofe, particularly between the river Teneßi and the Baikal-lake ; and are called the Saya- «/Vzw-mountains. From this chain fome branches advance towards the fouth into the country of the Kalmuks and Mongolians, and fome towards the north which partly furround the rivers Oby and Tom, and efpecially the Teneßi. The whole country which extends to the North and Eaft towards the two Oceans *, begins here to grow mountainous and rocky. But the longeft chain of mountains in Siberia, is that which lies between the rivers that run into the Ea/lern Ocean and the Ice-Sea : This ridge begins in the country of the Mongolians, and extends to the north-eaft extremity of Siberia. The mountains of lefs note in this country are thofe between the Teneßi and the Lena, from which the river Tungiißa that runs beyond thefe mountains derives its name. Another ridge of hills lies on the fouth fide of the river Aldan, in which are the fources of thofe rivers which empty themielves into the Ice-Sea. This chain of mountains is called Wercoianfkoi. §. 10. The inhabitants of Siberia confift of three forts of people, namely, the Aborigines or Ancient Inhabitants, the Tartars, and the * i. e. The Frozen Ocean and the Eoßcrn Ocean. Russians. Siberia.] RUSSIA. 491 Russians. Of the two firfl fome have no other religion but that of Nature ; others are Pagans or Mahometans ; and fome of them have been converted to Chriflianity, or rather only baptifed by the Ru/Jian miflionaries. The Aborigine* or firfl inhabitants confift of, I. The Wogiditzians or IVagidians who live in the province of Tobolffi, and, may more properly, be clafled here than among the Tartars. Thefe, by living among the Ruffians in a conftant intercourle of trade, &c. before the latter had conquered this country, are more civilized than the other Siberian nations. They have fome notion of a God, or the Creator and Preferver of all things. They believe a refurrecYion of the dead, and a future date of rewards and puniihments ; which important articles they pro- bably received from the Ruffians. But they abfolutely deny the exiflence of the devil, alledging that if there was fuch a being, he could do them no hurt ; and that they never knew any infhnce of it. Their whole religious worfhip confifls in the following ceremony : Every year towards the end of the fummer every father or head of a family in all their villages meet, and in fome neighbouring wood offer the head of every fpecies of animals they are acquainted with, and hang the fkins on the trees. They after- wards make feveral reverential bows before them, but without uttering a word by way of prayer. After this they feaft, with great rejoicings, on the flefh of the animals whofe heads have been thus offered. The only reafon they affign for performing this ceremony, is the practice of their anceflors. When they bury their dead, they throw money into the grave with the deceafed. They generally take as many wives as they can maintain. In their drefs and method of building, they, for the moft part, imitate the Ruffians ; but furnifh the infide of their houfes rather in the Tartarian than the Ruffian manner. As they have not a fufficient quantity of arable land, they moftly fubfifl by grazing and hunting. Thefe people are entirely fubject to the Ruffian government ; and many of them have embraced the Chriftian religion, as profeffed by the Greek or Ruffian church. II. The Samoiedes, who live in the province of Tenifeijkoi. Of thefe we have before fpoken in our account of the Government of Archangelgorod. III. The Turaki, a numerous tribe of Samoiedes, who inhabit the fea coafl and further up the continent between the rivers Ienifei and Oby. Moil of thefe flill live without any form of government : and though fome of them pay tribute to the Ruffian Emprefs, the generality have not yet fubmitted to the yoke. IV. The Ofiiaks or Aßaks, who call themfelves Conti or Konni-yung, and by the Tartars are fliled Tffituk, are divided into the Oßiaks of Narim s Tenifei, Oby, Surgut, Irtis, Sec. The anceftors of this people are fup- pofed to have emigrated hither from Welika Permia when Chriflianity was firfl introduced into Ruffia, to enjoy their idolatrous worfhip without molef- tation : at leafl their language is faid to have a great analogy with that of R r r 2 the 49 2 RUSSIA. [Siberia. the Pernians, which is very different from that of the neighbouring Samoiclcs and Wogolitfeians. The O/iiaks are of a middling flature, and generally well-fhaped, but very fordid and nafty in their way of living. They give the name of the firft beaft they meet to their children ; and as they grow up, inftruct them in hunting and filhing. They never give over filhing in fummer till they have caught a fufficient quantity of fifh to ferve for the whole winter ; and in the latter feafon they go out vvi'Ji their dogs to hunt hyena's, lynxes, fables, ermines, and bears, which enables them to pay their tribute, and carry on a trade with Grangers. They alfo catch a great number of birds and rein-deer for food in thefe excurfions. They are im- moderately fond of Skaar, or CMnefe tobacco. Their dwellings are fmall low huts made with ihrubs and bufhes, and covered with the bark of birch- trees ; and in the middle is the hearth for fire. They mind neither feeding of cattle nor agriculture, and keep no animals, but dogs for hunting and drawing their fledges. They worfhip three deities called Stariks, belides a great number of large and fmall frightful idols ; of thefe, however, feveral were deftroyed in the years 1712, ] 7 1 3 and 171 4, when many of thefe Pagans were converted to Chriftianity. They call the devil Shaitan ; and bury their deceafed friends with arms and houfhold furniture. When they take an Oath of Fidelity to the Ruffian government they ufe the following ceremony. Having laid down a bear-fkin and an ax, and holding over it a piece of bread on a knife, they pronounce thefe woods, ' In cafe I do not, to my 1 life's end, prove true and faithful to the Supreme Government of the ' country ; or if I knowingly and willingly break through my allegiance, or ' be wanting in the duty I owe to the laid Supreme Government} may ' the Bear tear me to pieces in the wood ; may the Bread I eat ftick in my * throat and choke me ; may the knife flab me, and the ax cut off my head !' The like ceremony is ufed among them in the depofition of a witnefs. V. The Barabinzians, who live on both fides of the river Irtis; fome of whom pay tribute to the Emprefs of Ruffia, and others to the Kan Taiflja. They fubfift on the cattle which they feed, and by filhing ; the lakes in the defert of Baraba abundantly fupplying them with fifli. They have plenty of all kind of game and wild fowl, particularly ducks and puffins. The Barabinzians are, for the moft part heathens ; but Mahomctanifm daily gains ground among them. They, probably, derive their name from the Bar- rabaian defert. VI. The Tungußans, or rather Tingißans. This populous nation is fcattered far and wide in the provinces of Tenifeijk and Irkutzk. The Chine fe call them Solun, and the OJliaks give them the name of Kellern, or Vellem, i. e. ' the party-coloured ;' but they term themfelves Oewonhi. The Tungußans muft not be confounded either with the Tangutes, nor with the Eaft-Mongaleans, whom th: Calmuks call by the nick-name of Tungus, i. e. ' fwine.' As fome of the Tungußans, when they became fubject to the Siberia.] RUSSIA. 493 the Ruffian Empire, were obfcrved to travel in fledges drawn by horfes, others by rein- deer, and others again by dogs, they were divided accord- ingly into the following tribes. 1. The Konnte Tunguß, who live in Dauria and about the town of Nertßünß, and are fo called from the horfes they ufe in travelling. Thefe almoft univerfally fubfift by grafing or feeding of cattle. Their drefs is like that of the Mongalcans, whom they pretty much refemble in other re- fpefts. They wear their hair like the Calmuks and Mongaleans, and ufe almoffc the fame arms, except that they wear no fabre. They do not mind agriculture; contenting themfelves with a kind of meal made of the roots of yellow lilies, which they ufe inftead of flour. Thefe Tungufiam are good horfemen, ftrong built, and behave with great bravery in war. 2. The Olennic Tungiß, who are fo called from their rein-deer., and live about the rivers Lena, Nißmaia, and Tungufia. They fubfift by hunting and fifhing ; and alfo breed fome cattle. They make their clothes of rein- deer-fkins, and wear caps of fox-fkins. Their ufual oath is O/hnni, which figiifies, that they call God to witnefs the truth of what they affert. When they are accufed, they clear themfelves by an oath of purgation. And having firft killed and burnt a dog, the defendant, after drinking fome of its blood, wifhes with an imprecation, that he may fhrivel up and be burnt like that animal if the charge againft him be true. The circumftances of this ceremony are differently related j but thefe are the principal and effential parts of it. 3 . The Sabatjhie Tungufi, who, for the moft part, live in the province of Iakutsk ; and are fo called not only becaufe they ufe dogs to draw their fledges, but alfo eat the ftefh of thofe animals. They are likewife termed Lamuts, from the country about Ocotzk, which is alfo called Lama. Their winter- clothing is made of rein-deer-fkins. 4. Podkamenie Tungufi, who inhabit the country that lies between the rivers Ienifei and Lena, or about Ilimsk. Thefe people are poor, and live much in the fame manner as their neighbours the OJiiaks and Samoiedes do. If we compare thefe feveral nations with one another, we may eafily con- clude from their cuftoms, &c. that they are defcended from the fame ftock. Their complexion is not fo yellow as that of the Calmuks, nor have they fuch flat nofes, and large eyes as the latter. Moft of them are alfo of a fmall ftature ; and, from a cuftom of plucking off the hair, very few have any beard. They mark the cheeks, forehead, and chin of their children when young with black or blue figures. This is done by mixing up the colour with their fpittle, and dipping a needle and thread in it, with which they ftitch the child's face ; continually drawing the thread thus coloured under the fkin, though the poor child, in the mean time, makes a la- mentable outcry. If the face fwells, they fmear it over with fat by way of 494 RUSSIA. [Siberia. of remedy. Anciently, a conqueror in war, or in fingle combat, was ho- noured with fuch figures ; but in that cafe, the figures were not limited to the face only, but were made all over the body. Such marks, in thofe times, commanded universal refpecl ; and this, probably, firft brought them into fuch vogue, and induced this, people to look upon them as highly or- namental. The religion of thefe nations is pretty much alike; and they ftile their idols Shewuki. They obftinately adhere to their fuperititions, and render any endeavours for their converfion abortive. Polygamy is allowed amono- them ; but very few have more than two wives. The generality of them live in fmall tents or huts, which they remove from place to place. The Tungufians are active and fprightly ; have a natural propenfity to juflice and equity, and are even infpired with a thirft after fame. They are all under the protection of the Ruffian government, excepting fome few that belong to China. They are divided into tribes or families ; and over a certain number of thefe prefides a Saifan or Chief, who has a deputy under him who is filled Taißja. Both thefe officers are appointed by, and receive a penfion from the Emprefs of Ruffia. The Tungufians bring the very beft furrs to market. VII. The Buratts or Buratiaus, whom the Ruffians call Bratski, differ from the c tungufiam only in their language, which has a great affinity with that of the Mongolians. They formerly lived on the fouth-fide of the Baikal- lake ; but, towards the clofe of the lall century, they gradually removed to the north of the province of Irkutß. About the year 1 644, a handful of Cofaks fent from Krajnoiarjk perfuaded them by fair words, without linking a blow, to become fubjects of Ruffia. They were formerly one people with the Iakutians. They are of a good fbape and llature, and fubfift by feeding cattle and fheep, and hunting. Instances are not wanting of a Buratt's being poflefied of a thoufand fheep, befides a great number of bullocks and horfes. The men cut off their hair clofe to the head ; but their drefs differs very little from that of the common people in Ruffia. The greateft ornament of the females is their hair, which the elderly women plait into two locks, and the younger fort into three or four. They live in hexangular huts, built with logs of wood laid upon one another to the height of three or four feet ; and upon thefe, poles are fixed which termi- nate almoft in a point, leaving only an apperture at the top for the fmoke. The entrance of thefe cottages always faces the Eaft ; and on each fide of them (lands a birch-tree. From one of thefe trees to the other a pole is laid, on which hang narrow flips of furrs, the fkins of ermines and weafels, and the fleeces of fheep; and before thefe trophies the Buratt makes feveral bows and proftrations night and morning, touching his forehead with two of his fingers, according to the oriental cuftom. They have a kind of prieils or lbothfayers, who, in their language, are called Bo, and drefs themfelves in a frightful manner. Great numbers of the poorer fort among the Bu- ratts Siberia.] RUSSIA. rafts have been perfuaded to be baptifed, efpecially thofe who live about Balaganßoi Oßrog; and thefe, contrary to the cuftom of the reft of their nation, apply themfelves to agriculture and trades, fo that many of them are very fkilful mechanics, particularly at inlaying iron with pewter or filvcr. They ride either on horfes, oxen, or cows, taking the firft that comes irt the way ; and feldom continue above a month or two in one place. For, whenever they obferve that their flocks and herds have eat up the pafture, they immediately remove to another fpot. VIII. The lakutians, who, as to their features, very much refemble the Calmuks ; and, in their manner of living, are not very different from the other pagan nations we have been fpeaking of. It is, however, oblervable that they wear long hair, and fhort garments, contrary to the cuftom of their neighbours. They give themfelves little trouble about bread ; but live on (everal forts of roots, garlick and onions, the flelh of horfes and cows, milk, and all kinds of wild beafts that they happen to meet with ; but mice, maramottos, and wild-fowl are their favourite difhes. Thev have both winter and fummer cottages ; and the cattle lie under the fame roof with their owners. They ufe mortars of frozen cow or ox-dung, in which they bruife not only dried fifh, roots, and berries, but the more wealthy among them pound pepper and fait. They have a great number of idols, which look like fo many puppets, and are all made of rags ; for wooden images they hold in contempt. They rub the mouths of thefe wretched figures with the fat or blood of animals. It is faid that the lakutians formerly either burnt their dead, or expofed them to the air on trees ; or left them un- buried in the hutts where they expired. But, at prefent, they generally bury their deceafed friends, which cuftom they have probably learned from the Ruffians. Several of thefe are now baptized. IX. The Yukagtrians, who live near the Ice-Sea, and moftly among the mountains. Thefe are a tribe of the lakutians. X. The 'Tfhukßians, who live in the north-weft part of Siberia, wear the tooth of a Wallrofs in each cheek, which are inferted in the flefli from their childhood ; and the Olutersh 'ans, a favage fierce nation, which, as far as we can learn, are fo far from fubmitting to the Rußan yoke, that they commit all poffible hoftilities againft them : This obliges the Rußan traders to go from Ocotzk to Kamtjhatka by water. XI. The Shelatians, Kur tit ans, and Coriakians, who alfo live in thefe parts, are little known. XII. The Kamtjhadatians, or inhabitants of the peninfula of Kanfßatka, are more traceable and civilized than their northern neighbours. They are fuppofed to have been originally a Japanefe colony : However, they pay the Ruffians a tribute in furrs. §. 1 1. The fecond principal clafs of inhabitants who live in this country, are the Tartars. Thefe are the molt civilized of all the foreign nations in 2 Siberia ; 495 49 6 RUSSIA. [Siberia. Siberia ; and thofe Tartars who are Mahometans are ftill more fo, than the Pao-an 'Tartars. The latter have their Kamen or priefts and forcerers, who impofe on the people by theirjuggling tricks in a moll: fcandalous man- ner. They affect to appear as if they were poffeffed ; and have their magic- drum, by which their deluded followers believe they can procure loft things, heal the lick, and predict future events. Their common drefs is a coat of leather with a great many pieces of iron hanging to it, leather ftockings with a vaft number of ornaments, and a cap which is very well calculated to raife awe and terror in the ignorant people. Thefe Tartars confift of feveral populous nations and lefs numerous tribes, and live under the protection of Rußa; they alfo derive their names from the countries, towns, and rivers, near which they dwell. The Tartars houfes and huts may be known by a broad low feat, and a hearth, with a chimney. We ihall now proceed to give a particular account of thefe Tartarian nations. In the province Tobolsk are the following tribes, viz.. i . Thofe who live in the city of Tobolsk. Of thefe I mall take further notice in my account of that city, and fhall here only obferve, that they are more cleanly than the Tartars of Kafan ; but fo poor that they feldom have above one wife, and drink water which is their only liquor. 2. The Tartars who live about Tibyk-Aal, or Siniarskoi Prud, as the Rußians call it, near the river Sirdar, pay no tribute whatever to the crown ; but are obliged to perform Cofak fervice, and are termed Moßtfldaraki. They have fixed habitations, and live continually in one pl?c?. 3. The Tartars who live in the government of Turinsk. Thefe are of a more favage difpofition than the other Tartars. In 1720, they were baptized by Philcphei Archbifhop of Tobolsk ; and great numbers of them who refuted to comply, were driven by force into the river, which the Rußans conduded would anfwer the purpofe very well. 4. The Miroto Tartars. Thefe, for the moil part, are independent, and exempt from paying tribute ; and live in a decent cleanly manner. 5. The Tartars who live about JJhmisk a town on the river Jrtis. Thefe have ufually one village for the fummer, and another for their winter habitation : however, this cuftom is not peculiar to them. 6. Thofe who live in the neighbourhood of the city of Tara are called Yefaflmie Tat art, i. e. Tartars paying tribute to the crown. 7. Great numbers of thefe people, eipecially the Thekuti Tartars, live about the river Tßumüß). Thefe were formerly much more numerous ; for great multitudes of them removed farther up into Siberia, to avoid the ravages of the Kalmuks -, but they now begin gradually to return to their former habitations. 8. The Tartars who live in the province of lenifea. Thefe, with many of the Thekuti and Kajhtim Tartars, who live near the river Kalt/rak in the neighbourhood of ffiinßoi Pogoß, were baptized by the above-mentioned prelate ; jeria.] RUSSIA, 49 7 prelate; but they are far from being Chriflians. They do not fo much as wear the crofs that is given them in baptifm, which in thole parts is ac- counted the efl'ential part of Chriflianity : but publickly declare that they were compelled to be baptized againft their inclination. However, they are very liberal in uiing the fign of the crofs ; are generally married by a Ruffian priefl ; and fometimes look into a Ruffian church. 9. The Tkeleuti Tartars, who live near Kufnct/k, are not Mahometans • nor have they any fettled form of religion. They, indeed, believe the exiftence of a God ; but almofl the only worfhip they pay him is as follows* Every morning at the riling of the fun, they turn to the Eaft, and fay this Laconic prayer ' Do not flrike me dead.' Near their villages are open places or areas called Tauiga, where they perform the following ceremony once a year, or oftener. They firft kill a horfe and eat the flefh of it ; then they flu ft the fkin, and turn the horfe's head towards the Eaft. The Taulga is alio built facing the Eafl ; and is only a fquare place inclofed with flake» of birch-tree : However, it is looked upon as a confecrated place. Here they leave the fluffed fkin as an offering to the Deity, which they reckon an adl of religious worfhip. They eat no pork ; but when they can come at any brandy, they make no fcruple of drinking it. They are fo fond of tobacco, that they generally fwallow the fmoke of it. Some of thefe 'Tartars burn their dead, and others bury them. 10. The Abi?itzi Tartars, who alfo live near Kufnet/k, are faid to be of the fame religion with the Thclcuti. Their huts are, for the mofl part, built only with earth ; and their employment is agriculture. 1 1 . The Beltiri are the only Tartars in the Kufnctsk Government, who, befides the tribute they pay to Rnffa, are alfo taxed by the Kafoiuks, and are obliged to pay the latter in iron and Ruffia -leather. In this country arc alfo the Kabal and Saga Tartars. 12. Farther up in the continent, near the river lorn, live the Tuliberti and Kifiimi Tartars. 13. The TßulimzianS) who are alfo baptized, though they have but a very imperfect knowledge of a God. They eat dead horfes, and offer up the fkins to the devil. They, indeed, bury their dead ; but every perfon prefent at the funeral leaps through a fire which is kindled on the fpot, that the de- ceafed may not follow him ; for they are perfuaded that the dead are very much afraid of fire. When Archbifhop Philophei came to thofe parts, in order to baptize the inhabitants, he ordered thofe who fliewed any backwardnefs or reluctance to be dragged by the dragoons who attended him, and driven by force into the river Tjhulum ; and upon their coming out of the water,, croifes were hung about their necks, and then they were called Baptized Tar- tars. After this a church was built among them. They are void of all real knowledge of the effential part of Chriflianity ; falfely imagining that it coniifls in carrying the crofs about them, and making the fign of it ; in. Vol. I. Sff abftain- 45 8 RUSSIA. [Siberia. abftaining from eating the flefli of horfes and fquirrels ; in going to church, and having their children baptized ; in confining themfelves to one wife, and obferving the fafts of the Greek church. 14. The Tartars who live about Krafnoiarsk have very much the air of Europeans, They are generally lean, but brifk and fprightly. In their manners they are civil, converfible, juft, and honeft, and do not want a capacity for bufinefs. Some caution, indeed, muft be ufed in .trading with this people ; but robberies and thefts are never heard of among them. They have generally two or three, and fometimes four wives. They are not very curious as to cleanlinefs, and neatnefs in their apparel, &c. They have a good breed of horned cattle and horfes -, and are no Grangers to agri- culture. Hitherto they have been fo tenacious of Paganifm, that neither the Mahometans, Ruffians, nor Mongols, have ever been able to make any imprellion on them in favour of another religion. 15. The Arinzi were formerly a principal tribe of Tartars; but at pre - fent the number of them is but inconfiderable. 16. The country lying between Abakan sk and Kansk is inhabited by thg Kotoi:-zi and Kamatjlinzi . The Tartars who live in the neighbourhood of Kansk are not very wealthy ; and few of them have more than two wives. Both fexes among them wear no other garment but a coat ; but thofe few, who have been baptized, wear fhirts and ihifts. But as they never wafli them, they appear very ilovenly and dirty. Like many of the other Tartars, they ufe the bulb of the Turkifh Bundes, and other lilies inftead of bread 5 fcr as yet, they have not applied themfelves to agriculture, their only occupa- tion being hunting of fables. 17. The AJfani Tartars, who were a numerous tribe, are now almoft extinct ; the few that remain live near the rivers UJfoIka and Ona. 18. In the province of Irkutsk, near Tunkinsk Oflrog, live the Soieti, a kind of roving Pagan Tartars. Thefe fpeak the fame language with the Tartars of Krafnoiarsk. §. 12. The third principal clafs of inhabitants who live in Siberia, are the Russians, of whom great numbers have fettled here fince the conqueft of this country ; but moft of them, from time to time, fled to Siberia from other provinces. Since their eftablifhment they have founded a great many towns, O/irogs, and villages, which, according to their cuftom, are buih and fortified with timber. Moft of the villages are called after the names of the peafants by whom they were firft built, and but few from the rivulets on which they ftand. The Siberian dialect in the villages is very different from the language commonly fpoken in Rujia, and is corrupted with abundance of words never ufed in that councry. As for the nicknames which the inhabitants of the Siberian towns give to each other, we lhall take notice of them in defcribing thofe particular places. Santering, diunkennefs, and debauchery univerfally prevail throughout all Siberia, fo that in Siberia.] RUSSIA. 499 in many parts of it, one meets with few pcrfons who are free from the venereal diftemper. The notion believed and propagated by foreigners, that the cri- minals exiled by the Rufliau court to Siberia (whole number is very confider- able) are obliged, daily or weekly to catch and deliver in a certain number of fables, is a vulgar error > for that is an exercife to which they are little accuftomed. Thefe unhappy exiles are difpofed of in the following man- ner. Some, who are lent hither as ftate-prifoners, are ftrongly guarded in fortified houfes, and maintained at the expence of the crown ; others enjoy their liberty, but under fome rcftrielions : others again are fent hither into ilavery, to work in the mines, fortifications, &c. Several decayed merchants, who are exiled to Siberia as debtors to the Crown, meet with more favourable opportunities of getting money and gradually retrieving their affairs than if they had continued in Ru[Jia ; and they are not debarred from embracing thefe opportunities when they offer. To fuch induftrious pcrfons, Siberia muft be looked upon rather as a defirable and advantageous country, than a wretched place of banilhment. All thefe Siberian nations will be better known, when M. G. Midler* whom I have already mentioned with the refpecT: due to fo learned a man % publiihes thofe excellent accounts which he collected in Siberia, and has long fince digefted. The firft Volume of his Hiftory of Siberia was pub- lished, in the year 1750, in the Rußian language; and it is to be hoped, that other nations will not be long without tranflations of that excellent work. §. 13. A very considerable trade is carried on in Siberia, which is much facilitated by the many navigable rivers that water every part of this country. By means of their commerce with the Chine fe, foreign European goods are often fold in the towns of Siberia nearly at the fame rate as at Petersburg and Mofcow. There is not a city in Rußa, from which mer- chants do not travel to Siberia with foreign goods. Thefe traders difpofe of their commodities partly among the inhabitants of the Siberian towns, but moftly to the Chineje merchants who frequent the great yearly fairs in Si- beria ; and purchafe fome of their commodities in return. Such a merchant performs a very long and tedious journey before he fees his home again. For inftance, he leaves Mofcow in the fpring ; arrives at Makar, where a fair is held, in the fummer ; and is atlrbitz by the annual fair in the beginning of the enfuing year. In the former place he makes it his bufinefs to barter fome of his goods for fuch as will turn to better account in the latter ; which he does chiefly with an eye on the Chineje trade. If any goods remain upon his hands, which he apprehends he cannot difpofe of to advantage in Irkutß, he endeavours to procure a market for them at Toboljk, where he arrives by winter. This place he leaves in the fpring, and trading through all Siberia, comes about the end of the fummer to Irkutsk ; or if he be hindered by the ice, he never fails to reach it by the beginning of winter, and * See p. 395, 396. S f f 2 trades 5 oo RUSSIA, [Siberia. trades with the Chinefe. Afterwards, he bends his courfe to Kiakta ; and, the following fpring, arrives at Iakutsk : From thence he returns for fix or feven hundred Werßs by water, and proceeds in fledges directly to Kiakta, in order to difpofe of his Iakutzkian commodities. In the fpring following he lets out for Irkutzk ; and in autumn reaches Toboljk. After that, he takes care to be prefent at the Irbitz fair in winter, and, in the following fummer, at that of Makar. After travelling thus from place to place for four years and a half, at laft he returns to Mo/cow ; and in that time if he under- stands his bufinefs, and things have turned out well, his gains amount at leaft, to three hundred per cent. The only coin ufed in this country is the Ruffian money : But moil of the traffick is carried on by bartering, or ex- changing goods for goods. §. 1 4. All Siberia is at prefent under the RaJJian dominion ; and was re- duced under that Government about the clofe of the fixteenth century in the following manner. In the reign of the Czaar Iwan Baßloicitz II. and Feoder Iwanowitz his fuccelfor, Jermak Timiofevitz, a Dcn-Cofak, at the head of fome thoufands of Cojaks terribly ravaged the countries which lie about the rivers Oka and Wolga, facking and plundering the towns, and de- stroying every thing before him. But at laft, he was driven to inch extre- mities by the troops lent againft him, that his retreat to the country of the Cofaks was cut off. After the lofs of the greateft part of his army, he -crofled the rivers Kama and Tßnifoivaia, and by the affiftance of a certain Strobinoiv, who was fovereign of a vaft tract of land near the T/hfoivaia, he embarked with the eight hundred Cofaks, ftill remaining, and other auxili- aries, on the river Tura ; laid liege to the town of Onzigidin, at prefent called Tinmen, and made himfelf mailer of it. He afterwards even took the city of Tobolsk, out of which he drove the Kuzium-Kan. Thefe two were then the only towns in Siberia. lermak had, indeed, got them into his power :. But he very well perceived, that he fhould not be able to keep in awe the vaft numbers of Mahometan Tartars who inhabited this country. This induced him to fend to Mofcow, Altanai Sultan, fon to the Kufium Kan whom he had taken priibner, with a tender of his conqueft to the Ruffian court, on condi- tion that the Czaar fhould grant him a free pardon. This favour was eafily ohtained ; and a good body of troops were lent to take poffeflion of the country. From this epocha, the Ruffians have been continually extend- ing their dominions in Siberia. Soon alter, lermak, being on an expedition with fome fbips on the river lrtis, was, in the night time, furprized by the Tartars, and, with moft of his people, cut to pieces. His memory is, to this day, held in great veneration in Siberia. As the Cofaks had been the inftruments of his conqueft, his honour was conferred upon them j namely, that all troops kept up by the Rußians in Siberia fhould be incorporated with the Cofaks, and bear their name ; Hence the Siberian militia, to this day, are ftiled Cojaks,. §. 15. Siberia^ Tobolfc.] RUSSIA. 5 oi §. 15. Siberia, at prefent, conftitutes a very extenfive Government, confiding of three confiderable provinces, each of which includes feveral towns, with their rcfpecfive Diftricls. Every town has its Wciwode, whofe jurifdicfion extends to the Diftrict belonging to it, without any Uprawitel or deputy under him. The Statthalter or General Governor of Siberia refides at Tobol/k ; and the Depüty-Statthaiter whofe feat is in Irkutzk, and all the Wolivodes, are fubordinate to him. However, he has not the power of ap- pointing a Wolwode; for they are nominated by the Chancery or Office for the Siberian affairs at Mofcow. In the Government-Chancery at Tobolsk are two Secretaries, who are not changed, like the governors, but continue in office during life, unlefs they forfeit it by male-practices. This procures them more refpecl than the General-Governor himfelf, and the Siberians of all ranks and degrees pay their court to the Secretaries. The principal officers of the garrifon are alfo obliged to conform to their directions ; and their power over the city of Tobolsk is almoft unlimited. All ecclefiaftical perfons and affairs in Siberia are under the jurifdiction of the Metropolitan of Tobolsk, The Siberian provinces mentioned above are as follow. LTOBOLSKAIA PROVINCIIA> Or the Province of TOBOLSK. ^T^HE fouth part of this province includes proper Slberla,w\\\c[\ was formerly ■*■ called Tnra ; but the whole province belongs to Tartary properly fo «ailed, as it formerly made a part of the Kingdom of Great Tartary, and is peopled with Tartarian colonies. The Circles or Diftricts in this province are, I. The Circle of Wercoturie, which is the firft one enters on in going the ufual road from Raj/la, from which it is feparated by the Wercoturian TJralian, or Rlphean mountains. In this Dift rief are the following places of note- Wercoturie is the firft town you meet with in Siberia in travelling the common road from Solkamsk; and is alfo the firft town built by theRußans in this coun- try. It lies on the river Tnra, and is fo called, becaufe the town with the territory belonging to it includes part of that river, and the country that lies near its fource. On Troltskol Kan/en, or Trinity Rock, as it is called, Hands a caftle built with ftone, in which are a church, the Town- Chancery, the PFolivode's houfe, and fome other ftone and wooden buildings. Facing the caftle, and near the church, is a market-place, and on it an Ex- change, on each fide of which ftands a church. Bclides thele buildings, there are in the town a convent of monks, a nunnery, four churches, two or three chapels, and about two hundred and fifty dwelling-houfes. All the 5 02 RUSSIA [Tobolfc. the goods that are brought to, or carried out of Siberia are here narrowly iearched. The fituation of Wercoturie is pleafant ; however, but little corn grows in its neighbourhood ; agriculture being neglected for the more profitable employment of gathering pine-nuts, vaft quantities of which grow in thefe parts. Liatimkoi Pogoß lies on the river Liala. Near this town is a copper mine ; but a quintal of the ore yields no more than two pounds of pure copper. Kujbwinskoi, or Blagodat-Kujlivinski Sawod, is an iron work, on the fmall river Kuflkva, granted by the Emprefs Elifabetb to Count Peter Shwaloiv in 1754. In the mountain called Blagodat, which yields the iron-ore, good magnets are alfo found. Here is a copper- fmelting houfe, which is fupplied with ore from Pelowinnot Rndnik. Above one hundred houfes are already built here. The forges in Turinskoi belong to thefe iron-works. Wuiskoi Sawod, which are copper and iron-works with about two hun- dred houfes, belonging to M. Demedcio, a Counfellor of State. This place is famous for a writing-fand of a golden colour, which is made of Gold-talc, as it is called. Nifono-Tagilskoi Sazcod, a place confirming of about fix hundred houfes, with an iron work, belonging to the above-mentioned Ruffian nobleman, the iron fouixl here is the mod: malleable of any in this country. Neiwianskoi, a town on the river N&Lim, where M. Demidow has his principal iron-work, and refides, in order to fuperintend all his other works in the neighbourhood. It was built in the year 170 1 at the expence of the the Crown, and in the following year was conferred on M. Demidcw's father as his perpetual property. Befides thefe works, the town confifts of a wooden fort and about eight hundred houfes, mod; of which are built in direct lines and form ftraight broad ftreets. Neiivianskoi is plentifully provided with all the neceflaries of life. Among the inhabitants of this town are great numbers of Starowerzi or old believers, as they ftile themfelvesj but by the Greek church they are called fchifmatics. Very curious and fer- viceable copper and brafs utenlils are made here. Bynkowskoi, an iron-work which belongs to the fame counfellor, and alio a brafs manufacture on the river Niewa. Werkno-Tagihkoi Sawod, and Shuralinskoi Sawod, other iron works belong- ing to M. Demidow on the river Tagil. On the eaft fide of the river is a rock of afbeftos ; but few of the veins are an inch thick. On being fcraped, the filaments are almoft as foft as the fineft iilk. 2. The Circle of Cathrinenburg, called in Ruffian, Ekateringburg-skoi Uiezd. This Diftrict is very rich in mines ; and in it lies Cat brine?: burg or Ekaterinburg, a regular town, built in the German manner. It ftands on the river Tfet, which runs through the middle of it ; and was begun in the year J 723, by Peter I. and finiihed in 1726, by the Czarina Catharine his conforr, from whom it derives its name. As Catbri- Tobolflc.] RUSSIA. 5 o Cathrinenburg lies in the neighbourhood of the Baikirians> it is well for- tified, and garrilbncd with two companies of foldiers, befides a party of engineers and matrofles for the artillery. All the houfes in this town were built at the expence of the government, and moft cf its inhabitants arc officers belonging to the crown ; the red: are artificers and head-miners who have the care of the works. Cathri 'nenbyrg confiils of about four hundred, and fifty houfes, befides the fuburbs without the walls, xvaich are inha- bited partly by exiled criminals, or others who voluntarily work at the for- tifications or mines for daily pay. The public buildings cf the town are, a wooden church, a ftonc edifice for the Public Offices, an Exchange with (hops, an arfenal, and a toll or cuflom-houfe. The laft is dependent on the Government of Tobolsk ; and the goods of the merchants going to the annual fair at Irbitz, which is the only time they are allowed to paß through this town, are fearched here. Ekateringburg may be accounted the centre of all the Siberian mine- works belonging to the crown ; and on this account the dircclor of the Siberian mines refides here, and ifiues his in- fhudtions to the other directors of the works, and pafles their accounts. The water of the river Iffet is raifed by a dam ninety-eight fathoms long, three fathoms high, and twenty broad, in order to fupply a great number of mills and other engines belonging to the mines. All the forges and works about this town are kept in a good condition ; and the miners and artificers work with a diligence and fpirit far beyond what is feen in other countries. Their wages are punctually paid every four months ; and all kinds of proviiions are here fold very cheap. When any of the work- men fall fick, they are taken great care of in the hofpital ; to which patients are alio brought from the neighbouring works. Adjoining to this hofpital is a phyfic-garden for the ufe of the patients. This town is not fubjecl to the Siberian Government-chancery, though belonging to the Tobolsk-govem- ment, but has its particular juiifdidlion ; and the Diieclor-Gcneral when he fits in the chief Mine-Court has two mine-officers for Affiflants. There is, befides, a Court of Juftice in this Diftricl, and a Police peculiar to itfejf. A German fchool has been founded in this town. There are a great many other iron and copper mines and works in this Circle ; but we ilia.Il only mention the following which are the principal. Shaicanskie, or Sbelefnie Saivod* Werk-Ifetzkoi. Jmperatrizi Anni Sawoni, in the mines belonging to which a valuable iron-ore is dug up. Polewskoi Sawod, a copper- work. Kamemkie Sawodi, where the befl Siberian iron is made, efpecially for cannon. Sufanskoi Saicod. Alapaewskoi Sawod, Neu, > S 04 RUSSIA [Tobolsk, Note. The following forts have been erected to the fouth of this Circle, as a defence againft the incurfions of the Bgßkiriam and the Cafatfl?ia-Horda. Miaskaia Krepoß, a fort with a large Slobodc» It ftands on the river Mias, in a fruitful country, which is very proper for tillage. Iß.nliabinskaia, on the fame river, is a larger fort than the foregoing, and garrifoned by dragoons : it ftands in a pleaiant fituation. Itkuhkaia Krcpoß, a fort on the lake of Itkul, is garrifoned by two or three hundred men ; and has a ftrong Slobode or Suburb. Near it are good meadows, arable land, and woods. Tß:ebarkuhkaia Krepofl ftands on the bank of the Skebaf-hke, which is about jfeven JVerßs in length from fouth-eaft to north-weft, and contains twelve illands ; its greateft breadth is alfo about feven Werfls. The fort is furrounded with a rampart and four baftions, all of earth. Within the largeft is a cita- del, which was erected before the former, namely in 1736, and was the flrft fortification that was ever built in the country of the Baß:kirians. The fituation of this fort, which is ftrongly built, is very pleafant; and the gar- rifon confifts only of fixty-fix men. Not far from hence, near the river Mias, fine beavers, which are very black, are caught. Uiskaia Krepoß, a fort on the river Ui, which ftands in a country extremely well adapted for tillage. Ukly-Karagaiskaia Krepoß, fo called from a wood of pines and a lake that lies near it, is garrifoned with two hundred men ; and is fituated in the midft of a fine arable and verdant tract of land. JVerkiaitzkaia-Krtpoft, a fort on the river Taik, which was built in the year 1735, and has a garrifon of two hundred men. About fifty JVerßs from this place, near the river Taik, is a whole mountain of loadftone, which is three Werßs in length from north to fouth, and, on the weft fide, is di- vided into eight flopes of different depth refembling fo many terraffes. The feventh, which is the higheft terrafs, contains the beft magnets. There are none found at the fummit of the hill ; but about eight fathoms below it, there is to be feen a heap of fixty or feventy Puds of ponderous ftones, which at a diftance look like large pebbles. Thefe ftones are overgrown with mofs, and are found to have a magnetic virtue ; for they attract a knife at the diftance of an inch or more. One of thefe lar°;e magnets confifts of a congeries of fmaller ftones, which operate in different directions. That par-t of the mountain where the load-ftones are found confifts chiefly of a fine fteel ore, which lies mflrata between the magnetic xocks. 3. The Circle of Turinsk, or Turinskoi Uiezd, In this Diftrict lies Turijisk, a town, which ftands on the river Tura, and was formerly called Tepantßnn, which name it alfo ftill retains. It contains a wooden fort, a mother church, with fix fubordinate churches, and above three-hun- dred Tobolflc.] RUSSIA. dred and fifty houfes. Provifions arc very good, and fold cheap in this town; fo that a Pud of excellent beef may be bought for twenty or thirty Copeiks *. 4. The Circle of Tiumen, or Tiumenskoi Uiezd. In this Diftricf. are the following places of note. Tinmen, formerly called On-Zigibin, is a town lying on the fouth fide of the river Tura, where the bank is very high. This town is not built parallel to the river, but at right angles with it ; and the little river Tiumenka runs through the town, and falls into the Tura at the extremity of it. Over the river is a bridge of eighty -three fathoms in length 5 and a little below it ftands a fort built with Hone, in which is a church of the fame materials. Without this fortification, and towards the lower bank of the Tura, are fix wooden churches, a convent of nuns with a church, and five hundred dwelling-houfes. At the lower end of the town is an OJlrog. Bevond the Tumenka lies the Yamskaia Sloboda, confifting of two hundred and fifty houfes, inhabited by people of all ranks and profefiions ; and at the ex- tremity of this fuburb ftands a monaftery : it has likewife three churches built with ftone. Another fuburb lies oppofite to Tiumen., on the north fide of the Tura, which is inhabited by Ruffians, Mahometan Tartars, and Buchanans. The firft-mentioned have a church, and the two laft a Met- Jhad, or mofque in this place. Krqfnaia Sloboda, or Krafnoßobodskoi Oflrog, which ftands on the river Nifa. The governor of this place is of equal dignity with the Woiwodes of the fmaller towns in Siberia. Great plenty of excellent afparagus near an ell in height, grows wild in thefe parts. Irbitskaia Sloboda, which ftands on the river libit, is famous for its an- nual fair, which is kept in the month of "January. On this occafion traders refort to this place almoft from every town in the Ruffian dominions ; and among the foreign merchants that frequent this fair, are Greeks, lbme of every Tartarian nation, and Buchanans. The merchants pay a duty of ten per Cent, for ail the goods they have here for fale ; but gold and filver bullion is free of all duty. Bielakouskaia Sloboda, is fituated on the river Pyßma, and has a wooden fort. 5. ISETSKAIA ProVINCIIA. This Diftrict was erected into a province in 1737, and contains the fol- lowing remarkable places. Dahnatow, a ftately convent, which ftands on the river Ifet in a level, fertile, and pleafant country. ■ Butkinskaia Sloboda, which is defended by a wooden fort. Okuneivskoi O/lrog, fituated on the river Mias. Tetßnnskaia Sloboda which ftands on the river Tetfla, and is defended by a wooden fort. * i. e. Thirty-fix pounds for about a (hilling or fifteen pence, Vol, I, T 1 1 Ifetzkoi S°5 ; o6 RUSSIA. [ToboMk. Ifetzkoi ößrog, on the river Jfet, includes within its circuit fixty houfes ; and about forty-fix dwellings are built without the inclofure. 6. The Circle of Tobolsk. In this District the places of note are as follows ; the principal of which is ToboIJk, in Latin Tobolium, the capital of all Siberia, and the refidence of the Governor-General. It lies in Latitude 58 , 12' on the Irtis, not fir from the influx of the 'Tobol into that river. This city is divided into the Upper and Lower Town. The Upper Town ftands very high on the eaSt fide of the Irtis ; and the Lower Town lies on a plain between the hill, on which the former is built, and the river. Both towns taken together are of a very large circumference ; but the houfes are all built with wood. In the Upper Town, which is properly called the city, ftands the fort, which was built with ftone by the late Governor Gagarin. In the fort are the Government-Court, as it is called, the Governor's houfe, the Arch- bishop's palace, the Exchange, and two of the principal churches, which are all ftone buildings. The Upper Town, which ftands on the eaSt fide of the fort, and is inclofed within an earthen rampart, affords nothing remarkable but a market for provisions and all kinds of fmall ware, three wooden churches, and a convent called Roß:deßwenßcoi . The Lower Town contains a market-place for all kinds of provisions, on which feveral Shops are built ; feven churches, and a ftone convent called Snameiifkoi ; and feveral fmall brooks run through it into the Irtis. The Upper Town is out of the reach of inundations from the river, by its high Situation ; which, however, is attended with this inconveniency, that the inhabitants are under a neceffity of going down the hill for water. Befides, large maffes of earth fall from the tide of the hill on which the town ftands towards the river almoft every year, which obliges the inhabitants to pull down and rebuild the houfes that ftand near the declivity. The Lower Town, indeed, has water at hand ; but is expofed to inundations when the river overflows his banks ; but fuch floods do not happen every year. There is a communication between the Upper and Lower Town by three different ways, one of which is moft frequented in Summer and Spring, the Second is very Seldom ufed, and the third moStly in winter. The town is very populous ; and almoSfc the fourth part of its inhabitants are Tartars, who are partly defcended from thole that were fettled there before the conqueft of Siberia, and partly from the Bncharians. Thefe Tartars, in general, behave very quietly, and carry on fome commerce; but praclife no mechanic trades. They are very Sober, and averSe to intemperance and all kind of riotous living. The reSt of the inhabitants are RuJJians whoSe anceftors were banished hither for their crimes, or fuch as are exiles themSelves. As every thing is fold here fo exceeding cheap that a common man may live very well at Toboljk for ten Rubels a year ; indolence and Sloth prevail to fuch a degree, that it is a hard matter to get the lcaft utenfil, &c. made, though the town abound Tobolfc.] RUSSIA. abounds with artificers, who want neither tools nor materials to carry on their refpeclive trades. The inhabitants of Tobolsk have the nickname of Iaßb-wiki, either from a kind of fifh called laß, i.e. c red eyes' of which there is great plenty here ; or on fome other account. Commerce is in a flourishing condition in this city ; and the traffick which the Buchanan and Calmuk merchants carry on in Indian goods, with which they fupply all Siberia and part of Rußa , is very confiderable. All the Chinefe caravans are obliged to pafs through this town ; and all the furrs furnifhed by Siberia are brought into a ware-houfe in this city, and from hence arc forwarded to the Siberian Chancery at Mofcow. Several of the Swedifl> officers, who were taken prifoners at the battle of Pultaiva and fent to Tobolsk, fet up fchools here in the year 1713, for teaching the children of Swedes, Ruffians, Cojaks, Tartars, &c. the German, Latin, and French lan- guages, with Geography, Geometry, and Drawing. Many of them alio took in boarders. Thefe fchools acquired great reputation ; fo that children were fent hither for education from a confiderable diftance, and the ex- emplary behaviour of thefe military pedagogues was attended with uncom- mon fuccefs. However, when the peace of Nyfiadt was concluded, the Swediflj officers returned into their own country ; and then thefe beneficial feminaries of learning dropped of courfe. Some time after, a German fchool was founded here under the aufpices of the Ruffian Emprefs. Abalack, a fmall town about twenty Werßs from Tobolsk, is famous for a picture * of the Virgin Mary. Great numbers of pilgrims refort to pay their devotions to the Virgin at all times of the year ; and feveral maifes are faid before it. This picture is every year brought to Tobolsk in a pro- ceffion of the clergy, and is kept there about a fortnight. Korkina Sloboda, which is the refidence of the Governor of this Circle, and immediately depends on Tobolsk, containing above a hundred dvvelling- houfes, and fortified with Oßroge or palifadoes, &c. Ißimskoi OJlrog, which Hands on the river Ifhim ; Abifuaia Sloboda, on the fame river, whofe church, like all the reft in this country, is furrounded with Oßroge, which is garrifoned with thirty dragoons ; and Irouskoi Pafs which is garrifoned by fifty men and ftands on the river Ir which falls into the Ijhim below the Ijhim-C\tc\e lie in this Diftridl. Yalutorouskoi Oßrog, which ftands on the river Toboi, was built in 1659 on the fpot where a Tartarian fortification formerly ftood, and is defended by fix iron guns. It con fills of more than two hundred houfes. The inhabitants traffick very much in horfes, and the country affords a iufficient quantity of corn for their fubiiftance. Eleven Slobodes lie within the circuit of this Qßrog. * I have rendered Bild a pidure here, as the Ruffians have an averfion to images, though it commonly fignifies an image. T t t 2 Note. 5°7 5 o8 RUSSIA. [Tobolfe. Note, The defert of Barraba lies between the rivers Irtis and Oby, and ex- tends itfelf between the city of 'Tara and Tßiawskoi Ojlrog. This yields but little wood j but has an excellent foil for tillage, and part of it may alfo be laid out in meadows and paftures : However, this place is, as yet, with- out inhabitants. Barraba is interfperfed with a great number of lakes which yield plenty of Karawfchen, a fpecies of carp ; and abounds with elks, deer, foxes, ermines, and fquirrels. Among its lakes Tjhane is the largeil, and contains feveral iflands. Some forts which are erecled on this defert fhall be taken notice of in the province of Ienifea. Tara, a fmall town on the river Irtts. About thirty-two Werßs from hence the river Tara falls into the Irtis. Tara was firft built on the former, from which it derives its name. Part of the town (lands on an eminence ; and it is defended by an Oflrog and chevaax de jrife, and in the front with a rampart of earth. This part is embelliihed with the Government-Chan- cery and the Waiivodes houfe. The lower part joins to the Tartar S/obode, or Suburb, in which is a Metfled, or Mofque. Every thing is fold at a high price here, proviiions excepted ; a Pud of rye-meal being generally valued at five Copeiks. Here is but little trade furring ; for the richer fort engrofs all foreign goods into their own hands. The inhabitants of Tara have the nicknames of Roskolfitjhiki, from the great number of feclaries among them, and Kolowitjhi, becaufe many of them were impaled in the year 1723, for refuting to take the oath relating to the fucceffion to the crown of Rußia. Bergamaskäia Sloboda ftands on the river Tara, and confifts of fifty-two houfes, and a fortification built with pieces of timber laid on one another, and furrounded with a deep moat. Omß, or Omskaia krepofl, a fortification built in the year 171 6, on the river Om, not far from its conflux with the Irtis. Without the fort, on both fides of the river, are feveral private houfes called the Omskci Slobode : that on the north fide of the river is fecured by an Oßrog, befides a garrifon of one hundred and fifty foldiers, and two hundred Cofaks. Shekßnskaiq Kreptß, or Shelefinsk, is a large fortification on the eaftern bank of the river Irtis ; and within it the fmall Oßrog, which was firft built here, is inclofed. This fort is defended by four guns, and is garrifoned with feventy foldiers, and a hundred Slußiwes. The adjacent country is with- out inhabitants, and confequently lies uncultivated. The dwelling-houfes at Sheleßnsk have no roofs, being only huts raifed with earth. Here is a vail number of a large kind of wild hogs, which for want of acorns, feed entirely on grafs and roots. Tamujhewa Krepoß is a fort on the Irtis, and ftands in a difagreeable filia- tion on the defert. The firif fortification, which had been built here in the year 17 15, was in the very fame year demoliihed by the inroads of the G 'muh; But in 17 17 the prcfent fortification was erected in its place. It Tobol/k.] RUSSIA. 509 It is entirely built with wood, has baftions and battlements, and is defended by eleven pieces of cannon. A Major is Governor of it ; and the forts of Shleleßnsk, Sempalat, and Vß-Gemeno-Korsk are under his command. Near it is a Slobode furrounded by an Oßroge. About fix Werjh to the eaft of this place lies the famous falt-lake called Iamußa, which gives name to the fort, and may be looked upon as a prodigy in Nature. It is of a round form, and about nine Werfls in circumference. Its banks are fo full of fait, that the ground is, as it were, cryftalized with it. The water is faline to the higheft degree ; and the fait that it yields is excellent, furpafllng all other fait in whitenefs, and confiding entirely of cubic cryftals. It is found here in fuch quantities, that fcveral (hips might be foon loaded with it ; and the empty places, where the fait has been taken away, are filled up with it again in five or fix days. The provinces of Tobolsk and Ienifea are iiipplied with fait from this lake ; which yields a dif- fident quantity for fifty fuch provinces. This falt-trade has been mono- polized by the Crown. A Pud of fait is fold on the fpot for twelve Copeiks; but at 'Tobolsk, Tomsk, and Ienifeisk it cofis about twenty Copeiks. Sempalataia Krepoß, or Sempalat fort, was built in the year 17 14 on the bank of the Irtis ; but it was taken down and built on a new fituation feveral times on account of the gradual encroachments which the water made on the land ; fo that now it ftands in its fourth fituation. This fort is eafily commanded from the mountains that lie to the eaft of it; and the adjacent country is very pleafant and fertile, but lies uncultivated. The gardens at Sempalat yield a very fine fpecies of melons. The fort has its name from Sem- palat, a ruinous town lying about lixteen Werßs from it, on the river Irtis, where fome remains of old ftone buildings are füll to be feen. The firft Rußum lettlers here found feven of thefe houfes, as the name of the place imports. The Learned are of opinion that fome old inferiptions, which were found among thefe ruins, relate to the mythology of the Kalmuks ; and that this place was deferted by that nation, agreeably to a maxim of their religion, that when any confecrated place is once profaned by war, it muft be relinquished for ever. Vß-Kameno-Gorß, a fmall Krepoß or fortrefs, ftands in a fpacious plain near a lhallow branch of the Irtis, and is fo called from the mountains which lie to the eaft of it. Its garrifon confifts of a hundred and fifty men. The neighbouring country abounds with wild animals. Betwixt the Irtis and the Oby are fome rich copper-mines ; and from the Ploskaia Gora, or the flat mountain, fine ore is carried to the copper-works at Kolivan. The copper-mines on the mountain Pidhtoa (fo called from the Picla, or white firs, that grow on it) yield a vaft produce: and there is no need of digging deep to come at the ore, as it lies near the furface of the ground. Every hundred weight of ore yields twelve pounds of pure copper. Not far fmm Piclowa are L two other hills near the furface of which ore is found. 5 io RUSSIA. [Tobolflc. found. The J! T o$krefe?iskian mountains abound with ore ; but it lies moftly in ftrata or veins of a confiderable depth. The Koliivan copper-works which belong to M. Demiedow, at firft were built on a mountain called Koliivano, which is not far from the pr.efent ftrudture. It is defended by a fort confifting of four baftions, and furrounded with a rampart of earth and a moat. Moft of the miners are Roskoljhtjhiki or Rußan feparatifts from the Greek church. Thefe works have lately become extremely profitable. The ore is very rich in copper, and yields a great deal of filver ; befides the filver yields fo much gold as makes rich returns for the trouble and expence of extracting it from the former. It is prefumed that the whole country lying betwixt the Irtis and the Oby abounds in rich ore of various metals ; and that the ore generally lies near the furface of the earth. To the North-eaft of the city of Tobol/k lie the following places of note. Demianjk, a town which ftands on a hill near the Irtis, and is moftly in- habited by Iemßicks, or carriers ; who in fummer-time ply with veffels up and down the river, and in winter carry goods and paffengers in fledges. Samaroitfloi Tarn, or Samarowß, a poft-ftage at the conflux of the Irtis and Oby. Here are about fifty houfes and a church. The adjacent coun- try lies uncultivated ; and all forts of provifions are brought hither from Tobol/k. Samarowjk is famous for a large trading place. Karimkarsk and Atlimsk, which are alio poft-ftages. 7. The Circle of Surgut, in Ruffian Burgutskoi Uiezd. This Diftrict has its name from Surgut, a pretty large town on the Oby. It is furrounded with pallifa- does and towers ; and the Oßiaks who live in this country annually pay tribute to the Woiwode of Surgut. The adjacent country abounds with fables ; black, white, and red foxes, and fine gray furrs ; and has plenty of excellent fifh, but produces no corn. The inhabitants of this city have the nick-name of Griiviie becaufe moft of them are obferved to fquint. 8. The Circle of Pelym, in Ruffian Pelymskoi Uiezd. This Diftrict is large but contains no remarkable place, except the fmall town of Pelym, which ftands on a river of the fame name. To this place the famous Field Marfhal Count Munich was banilhed, and ftill lives here in exile. There are feveral lakes, and fome of a confiderable extent, in this Circle. 9. The Circle of Beresow, called by the Ruffians Berezoivskoi Uiezd. This DiftricT: is bounded to the North by Waigatz ftraits, and to the Eaft by a large bay of the Frozen Ocean, which runs into the land towards the fouth ; and at the fixty fixth degree of Latitude feparates into two arms, one of which is called the Obskaia Guba or the Oby-bay, and the other Tazowskaia Guba, or the bay of Tazoia. Into the former the river Oby empties itfelf, and the Taz into the latter ; and from thefe two rivers the bays derive their names. This DiftricT: was under the Ruj/ian dominion long before the other parts of Siberia were conquered ; for it was added to the 1 Empire Yenifei.] RUSSIA. 5 n Empire by the Czaar Gabriel fo early as the year 1530. The moft re- markable places in it are Liapinskoi, from which the Ofliaks, who live in thcfe parts, are called Uapinians. Berezow, which flands on the river Oby, and is fortified with pallifa- does. Here the court-favourite, Prince Metijhikoff, died in exile. The in- habitans of Berozow are called by way of ridicule Bielkoiedi, on account of their eating a great number of fquirrels. Kuiskoi, a Slobode, which flands on the river Kuiskoi, and gives name to the Oßiaks and Samoiedes who inhabit the adjacent country. Obdorskoi Oflrog, which lies near the mouth of the Obv, is the place where the Samoiedes bring in their tribute. Nadymskoi Oflrog, which flood by the mouth of the river Nadym, where it falls into the Oby-bay, was deftroyed by the Iuraki. Not far from this place is a fpacious deep cavern in a mountain, where the Nady?nia?i-Ojliaks (heiter themfelves. They make ufe of ladders to afcend to, and defcend from this cave. Note. The ifland and (traits of Waigatz, and Novaia Scmlia or New- land which lies beyond them, and is erroneoufly written Nova Zembla, are but little known. This country was firft difcovered in the year 1 566, by Stephen Barrow an Engliflman. In 1 596, two Hollanders, namely, William Barents, and 'Jacob Heemskirk, wintered here with their crew. The Sun difappeared on the third of November, and they never faw it till the twenty-fourth of '"January following. The Ruffians have not yet ventured to fail round the coaft of Novaia Semlia ; but as they go in lmall veffels between that country and the coaft of AJia, and the Dutch navigators have difcovered the northern coaft of it, we may conclude that it is an ifland ; and it is exhibited as fuch in the Ruffian Atlas. The Samoiedes, who live in this neighbourhood on the coaft of the Ice-Sea, fometimes crofs over to Novaia Semlia, to hunt rein-deer, elks, and white bears. It is yet uncertain whether this ifland be inhabited or not : For granting that men have been ken on it, that does not ablblutely prove that they always dwell there. II. IENISEISKAIA PROVINCIIA, Or the P r o v 1 n c e of YENISEI. f B V HE fouth part of this province muft have been included in the king- ■*■ dorn of Tartary ; but whether the north part ever belonged to it is a queftion. Some account has been given above * of the Tungufians, * See p. 473. Ofliah 512 RUSSIA. [Ycnifei. Ofliaks, and other Tartarian nations who inhabit this province : It confifts of the following Circles or Diftricls. i . The Circle of Mangasea, in Ruffian Manga feiskoi JJiezd. In this Diftridt are four bays, into one of which the Yenefei difcharges itlelf, betides the large gulf of the Frozen Ocean, of which that of Tazow is only a bay. Though the climate of the country that lies near the mouth of the Temfei be fo exceffively cold, yet it is very well peopled ; the boun- tiful Creator having liberally beflowed many advantages on this country, which is generally reprefented in fuch dreadful colours. The white and blue foxes, and the white wolves and bears which are caught here, are faid to llirpais thole of #11 other parts in largenefs of fize. Befides the hair is alio finer and grows clofer than common ; accordingly the fkins always bear a higher price, than thofe that are brought from the Oby and the Lena. For the fake of thefe profitable captures, more Ruffians fettle on the banks of the lenijei than near any other river in Siberia. From Mangafea to the fea, and along the coaft to the river Pia/iga, and from the Pia/iga to the Cantatiga, and along the banks of the laft river, the country is full of Ruffian dwellings : Some of the inhabitants remove to end their days in other places, and tome live and die in this country. People who want employment flock to thefe parts in great numbers ; and a young fellow, though he be ever fo poor at his fir ft fetting-out, foon makes his fortune in this country, if he is active, induf- trious, and a good ceconomilt, by catching thofe animals whofe fkins are fo valuable, and with which it abounds. In fummer, when no creatures but rein-deer are to be caught, here is the opportunity of fifhirig, in order to lay up a plentiful provifion for winter. In the fixty-eighth degree and a half of North Latitude lies the Ruffian parifh called Katanskoi Pogoft, on the bank of the Ie?iifei ; which is much frequented by the huntlmen who live in the neighbouring houfes, of which there is no imall number in the adjacent country. This place muft not be confounded with Catanskoi, on the river Catanga, which lies alio in this Circle in Latitude yo° 30'. The moft remarkable place in this Diftricl is Mangafea, or Mangazeia, the moff. northern town in Siberia, which lies in Latitude 66°. The exact time when Mangafea was difcovered, and peopled by Ruffian colonies, cannot be well afcertained. According to an old tradition delivered down from father to fon, a colony from Archangel built the old Oflrog of Mangafea, before there was fuch a thing as a Ruffian town known in Siberia. It derives its name from a Samoiedcan tribe, who inhabited this country, and call themfelves Mangafe : For this people, by promifing to pay tribute to the Ruffians, gave occafion to the building of this town. Old Mangafea, which flood on the river Taz, gra- dually fell to decay; and in the year 1600, the prefent town was built, and the inhabitants of the old Ojirog were removed hither. This new Oflrog was alfo called Mangafea ■> but as it lies at the mouth of the river Turukan Yenifei,] RUSSIA. Turukan, it had alio the name of Turukati/k, which it retains to this day among the common people. As this Oflrog proved the means of making feveral nations tributary to the Ruffians, it was, probably on that account, afterwards endowed with the privileges of a town. Mangafea flands at prefent on the north bank of the Nihlßol Shar, which is a fmall branch of the lenißi, and, about a Werfi from this place, is augmented by the influx of the river Turukan. The houfes in this town are not contiguous, and, at mod:, do not exceed one hundred. The greateft part of it is inclofed within a fmall wooden fortification, with four pieces of cannon ; and in this flands the houfe of the Governor or PrefecT, and the principal church ; and without it are two other churches. Mofr. of the inhabitants of Man- gafea have always been Cofaks ; who were placed here, in order to fubdue, or at leafl to check, the Pagan nations of this country, particularly the Tun- gußans and Samoicdes. The Mangaßans are by way of ridicule called Swietlobi from their fhining foreheads, and Porfiwiki becaufe they eat dried and putrified fifh inflead of bread. This town carries on a good trade in furrs. In fummer time the fun is feen here continually above the horizon ; and during that feafon prodigious flocks of birds, especially water-fowl and feveral kinds of wild geefe and ducks, plovers, fnipes, &c. frequent the neighbouring country. Since the year 1721, this town and its DiftricT: have been annexed to the province of Iefiifea ; whereas before that time it depended imme- diately on Tobol/k, and prior to that, was in the jurifdi&ion of Tomjk. 2. The Circle of Narym, or Narymßoi Uiezd. In this DiflricT: are, Narym, a fmall town, which flands on an ifland in the river Oby, and is fortified with pallifadoes and wooden towers. The tribute due from the neighbouring Oßiaks is paid here. Ketßoi O/lrog, which lies on the river Ket. 3. The Circle of Tomsk, or Tomskoi Uiezd. The following places of note lie in this DiftricT:. Tomsk, a town lituated on the- river Tom. A brook called XJfixÄka runs through the town, and at the northern extremity of it falls into the Torn. The foundation of Tomsk was laid in the reign of the Czaar Feodor Iwanowitz, who built an Ojlrog on this fpot ; and this happened about twenty years before the building of the town of Kufnetsk. Several nations of thele countries having been reduced by force of arms, and others volun- tarily fubmitting to the Rißians, the Ojlrog was by degrees converted into a fort ; and the fort in time increafed to a town ; which, at prefent, contains above 2000 houfes within its circuit. It was at firfr, next to Tobolsk, the feebnd principal city in Siberia, and continued fo for fome years ; but has fince been included in the province of Ienifii. Some, indeed, are of opinion that the Circle of Tomsk at prefent belongs to the province of Tobolsk ; but we rather follow the Rußian Atlas which places it in that of Ienifei. On V o l. I. U u u the 5 1 5 i 4 RUSSIA. [Yenifei. the higheft part of the town {lands r. fmall wooden caftle defended by fourteen pieces of cannon ; and in it are a cathedral built with wood, the JVoiwode's houfe, the Government-Chancery, and an arfenal. Near the fort ftand feveral private houfes and a church. The lower part of the town is the moft populous ; and is feparated into two parts by the' rivulet TJjhaika. In that part which lies to the left are a monaftery, a nunnery, a church, and a Tartarain Slobode ; and in that part on the right are three pariin churches and an Exchange for merchants. This town is extremely well fituated for commerce, and the inhabitants carry on a confiderable trade. It lies in the great road from lenifeijk and all the towns in the eaftern and northern parts of Siberia ; fo that all caravans going to and from China pafs every year through this town, befides a caravan or two from the country of the Kalmuks. Here are indeed all kinds of tradefmen and artificers ; but they are extremely indolent and ilothful ; which is owing to the extraordinary cheapnefs of provifions in this town, and their brutifh propensity to drinking and debauchery, there being fcarce a family among the inhabitants which is entirely free from the hues Venerea. The Tonskians have the nick-names of Olionotßi, from a woman called Oliiona, who was very famous for her ftrength, and Buligi, i. e. ' boafters." The adjacent country is very fertile and produces all kinds of grain. Melesk and Atfainsk, which are two Oßrogs. Bogorodskoiy a town on the Oby. The church belonging to this town is famous for a celebrated picture of the Virgin Mary, which is diftinguiihed by the name of Oediitria, and every year on the twenty-firft of May is brought in procefiion to Tomsk. There are iron works in this place. Urtamask and Umrewinsk, two Oßrogs near the Oby. The latter is one of the oldeft in this country. Tßauskoi Oßrog and Sloboda, which ftands on the river Tß:aus, was built in 17 13, in order to check the incurfions of the Kafaißia Horda, who, lince that time, have never appeared in thele parts. This Oßrog is advantageoufly Jituated, and has great plenty of all kinds of provifions : It is defended by five pieces of cannon. The Slobode belonging to it confifts of eighty private houfes. The inhabitants are, for the moft part, people of wealth, which confifts in herds of cattle. In the defert of Barraba and on the borders of it are the following fortrefies. Vbinskoi Pafs and Kainskoi Pafs, which are not far from the lake Vebu. The former has a garrifon of fifty men, and is dependent on the latter. Kainskoi Pafs ftands near the river Om, and is defended by brafs guns, and a garrifon of one hundred and fifty men. Tartaskoi Pafs, which likewife ftands on the river Om, is but a mean place; However the fituation is good, and the adjacent country very fertile. 4. The Circle of Kutsnütsk, or Kiitnetskoi Uiezd. In this Diftrict lies 2 1. Kufjhetsk) VenHeiJrj RUSSIN. 5 r 5 Kutfnettky a large town on the river Tom, which was formerly ini> liited by the Kirgifian Tartars, who gradually retreated towards the borders of the country of the Kilmuks, when the RttffiaHi fettled in this place. This town has been built above a hundred years ; and was peopled with colonies from the Diftricls of Tomsk, Werkoturie, and Weliki-Novogrod. Before that time, the Tartars who lived in the place where the city now ftands, uied to fmelt iron from the ore, and fubfifted partly by that employ- ment and partly by the iron which they wrought. Hence the town had its name ; Kusnetz in the Ruffian language Signifying a forge. In the year 1689, KutJ'netsk was declared a city. The upper and middle parts of this city ftand on a high bank, and the lower part on a level between the river Tom and that eminence. In the upper part ifands a fmall wooden citadel 5 in the middle is an Ofirog inclofing the fVoiivodes houfe and the Government- Chancery ; and in the lower part are moft of the houfes, which amount to about five hundred, and a church. No manner of trade is carried on in this town. The inhabitants are called by their neighbours by the nick-name of Surki, becaufe they wear the fkins of a fmall kind of maramottos called Sarki. Bieloiaskaia, and Bikatunskaia, are two frontier fortifications, which were built in this Circle to check the incurfions of the Kalmuks. 5. The Circle of Krasnoiarsk, or Kraf?ioiarskoi XJiezd. In this Diffrict lies Krafnoiarsk, a town fituated on the Ienifei ; and at the lower end of it runs the river KatJ/ja. It was firft built in the year 1728, as an OJirog to oppofe the incurfions of the neighbouring tribes, and to keep them in awe, and gradually rofe to a town. It derives its name from the dark-red colour of the northweft bank of the Katjha. The original Oflrog lies on the north fide of the town, and contains the great church, the Government- Chancery, the Woiwodes houfe, the arfenal, &c. In the town itfelf, which is furrounded with pallifadoes, towers, &c. are a church, the Town-houfe, and about three hundred and fifty houfes. The inhabitants by way of contempt are called Buntowjhiki on account of their frequent revolts. Moft of them are Slufinwie, or a fort of irregular infantry : However, fome of thefe are not without fuch wealth as the country affords ; and this confiils in horfes and cattle, which feed both winter and fummer on the Steppe or heaths. Such is the fertility of the adjacent country, that if it be only fuperficially plowed, without any manure, it will bear crops of corn five or fix years fuccefilvely ; and when the land is impoverished, there is plenty of other wafte ground which may foon be made fit for lowing. Many antiquities Were formerly found in thefe parts, particularly in the town of Krafnoiarsk. Thefe remains of antiquity were taken out of graves and old monu- ments, feveral of which are füll to be feen near Abalansk and Sagansk. Even confiderable quantities of gold and filver have formerly been lound in them ; and copper is now frequently dug up in fuch places. The great road from Tomsk to Irkutsk lies through this place. U u u 2 In 5l6 RUSSIA. [Yenifei. In this country near the river Ienifei, ere three large fubterraneous caverns ; and in one of them the rock is painted with feveral figures. In this Circle are alfo the following OJlrogs. Werkneikaraidnoi Oßrog, which lies on the river Ienifei. Abakanskoi OJIrog, which alfo (lands on the Ienifei, was founded in the year 1707, and rebuilt in 1725. It is fo called from the river Abakan, which falls into the Ienifei about fixty-two Werßs beyond this Oßrog. It is defended by feveral pieces of cannon, and has always a good garrifon. The number of houfes near this fortification is continually increafing. Sanianskoi Oßrog, which is likewife on the river Ienifei, was built in the year 1 jog to keep the Kirgißans in awe ; and has fully anfwered the pur- pofe, as they are very quiet at prefent. On the river Lukafa near this Oßrog fome copper- works are ereded. Kanskoi Oßrog, which ftands on the bank of the river Kan. The fur- prilino- dexterity of the 'Tartars in catching fables near this Oßrog renders it one of the beft places in Siberia for that trade ; on this account the merchants, who travel to the frontiers of China, generally make fome flay here. It is alfo one of the mofl lucrative places in the jurifdiclion of the Wohvode of Krafnoiarsk ; and the Kanskoi, or receiver of the tribute, pays a round fum for his office. 6. The Circle of Yenisei, or Ienifei shi Uiezd. In this Diflrict are the following places of note. Tenifeisk, the capital of this province, lies on the river Yenifei, which is here about a Werfi and a half in breadth. This city is built along the fide of the river, and is about fix Werfis in circuit. In the year 16 18 an Oßrog was founded in this place, which firft depended on Tobolsk, and then was under the jurifdidfion of Tomsk ; but it was afterwards raifed to a town, and, in 171 9, made the capital of the province. Within the old Oßrog are the great church, the Woiivode's houfe, the Chancery or State-Offices, and an arlenal. The city contains three churches, a monaftery, a nunnery, an Exchange for merchants, a powder magazine, and a magazine for pro- vilions, (the two laft inclofed by Oßrogs) and feven hundred private houfes. The Archimandrite, who has the fuperintendency of the convent of Troitz- Mangafea which ftands near the mouth of the river Niß.ma-Tunguska, and of the whole body of the Tenifean Clergy, refides in the monaftery at Te- nifeijk. The commodious fituation of the town caufes a very brifk trade to be carried on here, efpecially in fummer ; and mofl of the inhabitants are more or lets concerned in commerce. Here is great plenty of corn, flefl), and fowl ; but the only fruit this country produces are two or three forts of berries. Drunkcnnefs, floth, and debauchery prevail here, as in the other towns of Siberia ; and fuch difeafes as are the confequence of thole vices are very common in this city. The inhabitants are looked upon as a crafty, deceitful people, which has procured them the nickname of Skwo/hiki, Irkutflo] RUSSIA. Skow/hiki, which fignifies ( iharp-fighted,' or people that are not eafily impofed upon. Majkowskoi Oßrog, which ftands on the river Ket. Markoivo Gorodijhtßie is a pretty large village on the river Tenifci. Rubenskoi Oßrog, a mean fortification. Vß-Tunguskoi , which lies feven JVerßs helow the influx of the Tun- guska into the Yenifii, and Iefaidowo Sieh, are two handfome villages, or fmall towns. Taffeovskoi Oßrog, which ftands on the river Uffblka, was rebuilt and improved in the year 1723. The Tartars and Tungußans of this country are become fo peaceable and fubmifiive, that the Oßrog has no longer occafion to ufe the few guns with which it is provided. As the in- habitants have very little trade or intercourfe with Grangers, they may ferve as a juft fpecimen of the Siberian manner of living. Udinskoi Oßrog, a fmall place, was built in the year 1644 on the river Uda; and brings a considerable income to the Ienifean Woiwode ; for the neighbouring Buratians bring their tribute of furrs to this Oßrog. III. IRKUTSK AI A PROVINCIIA, Or the Province of IRKUTSK. ^T^ HIS Province alfo belongs to Tartary properly fo called, at Ieaft as ■*■ far as the Circle of Yakutsk, which cannot properly be included in it. It is governed by a Deputy-Statthalter under whofe jurifdi&ion are the Woi- wodes of Ilimsk, Selenginsk, Nertßnnsk, Yakutzk, and the officers who prefide over Okotsk and Kamjhatka : However, he is fubject to the Gover- nor of Tobolsk, though he has a large appointment ; for his perquisites, exclufive of his falary, amount to no lefs than 30,000 Rubels a year. The Buratians, Yakutians, and other nations who live in thefe parts, have been fpoken of above*. This province includes the following Circles. 1. The Circle of Ilimsk, or Ilimskoi Uiezd. Remarkable places in this DiftricT: are, Ilimsk, a mean little town on the river Him. It lies between high moun- tains, and contains but eighty houfes and an Oßrog ; however, it is the feat of a Woiwode. Great quantities of beautiful black fables are caught in the neighbourhood of this town. Bratskoi Oßrog, which ftands on the river Angara, confifts of fifty dwelling houfes ; and at the diftance of five JVerßs from it, ftands a * See p. 494, lä feg. monaftery 5 r 7 8 RUSSIA, [Irkutflc. monaftery called Spaskoi. Great numbers of Tnngüßans live in thefe parts ; and about four Werßs from the Oflrog is a great diftillery for fpirits. Endinskoi Oßrog, which lies on the bank of the Angara. Lenskoi Oßrog, which ftands on the river Lena. XJß-Kutskoi Oßrog, which is alio on the Lena, is a very mean place. At a little diftance from this Oßrog, near the river Kuta, are feveral faline iprino-s, which furniih the whole Circle of Ilimsk with fait. Kirenßoi Oßrog, which was built on the bank of the Lena in the year 1 6 ^5, is now in a mean condition. The neighbouring country is very fertile ; and, considering its Latitude which is $j° 47', it has a furprifing verdure, and produces various forts of vegetables which are remarkably large in their kind. The fturgeons and fterleds caught in the rivers near this Oßrog are, for their exquiiite reliih, the fineft that Siberia affords. Not far from this place, near the influx of the river Kirenga into the Lena, is a convent remarkable for its opulence and endowments. Many of the people who live in the neighbourhood of Kirenßoi have wens of an extra- ordinary bignefs, which render their perfons none of the moft agreeable ; and it is not uncommon to fee their oxen and cows with thefe excrefcences. Spoloßjehßia Sloboda {lands near the Lena in a very fertile country, which conlifts both of meadow and arable land. The inhabitants of thefe parts are alfo disfigured with wens. 2. The Circle of Irkutsk, or Irkutskoi Uiezd. This Diftricf contains the following places of note. Irkutsk, the capital of this Province, and the refidence of its Vice-Statt* halter, ftands near the river Angara, in a fine plain, not far from the lake of Baikal. This city derives its name from the river Irkutsk, which runs into the Angara near this place ; and is one of the moft confiderable and populous towns in all Siberia. It contains near 1000 good dwelling- houfes, and is furrounded with pallifadoes, within which are fourteen fmall forts, a moat, and fome chevaux de frize : It is alfo defended by a fort which ftands near the Angara without the town, and is planted with fixteen pieces of cannon. There are two churches built with flone, and four with wood, within the city ; and two other churches, one of which belongs to a nunnery, ftand without it. All the clergy of the province are under the jurifdiftion of the Bifhop of Irkutsk. The inhabitants, who for the moft part are traders, live in the Siberian manner, that is, in drunkennefs, indo- lence, and debauchery, and the confequences of thefe vices are very common among them. The adjacent country is pleafant, and diverfified with hills and values j but as it lies uncultivated, a great quantity of corn is brought hither from the neighbouring countries. Here is plenty of game, as elks, ftags, wild boars, and roc-bucks ; and alfo partridges, wood-cocks, moor- hens, and fnipes. The lake of Baikal is an inexhauftible magazine of filh. Foreign goods may be bought here almoft as cheap as at Mofcoio and OO » O 7-1/7 reterjburg ; Irkutfk.] RUSSIA. 519 Petersburg ; for merchants refort hither from every town of any note in RuJJia, and barter their commodities for Cbinefe goods. About fix Wcrjh from Irkutsk, is a diftillery for fpirits, confuting of thirty- feven Alembics ; a little further is another of fifty-three, and beyond that is a third with fixty Alembics. Thefe diftilleries belong to the Czarina, and furnifh the Circles of Irkutzk, I/imsk, and Selenginsk with diftilled fpirits. Nikolskaia Saßawa, or St. Nicholas's cuftom-houfe, ftands at the mouth of the river Angara. The toll or duty, payable on commodities brought from China, is received here. The collector of thefe duties has fo profitable a poft, that he generally makes his fortune in one year. This country is frequented with prodigious flights of all kinds of wild ducks. Urik, a Slobode or Suburb on a rivulet of the fame name, confifts of feveral well-built houfes, which few towns in this country can equal. On an illand formed by the river Angara are two {alt-works, which plen- fully fupply the whole Diftricl of Irkutz on this fide the lake of Baikal, and part of that of Ilimsk with fait. Olonki, a Slobode or village, which confifts of two large villages, lies in a very pleafant fituation ; and the adjacent country yields plenty of corn. Beskoi and Idinskoi OJlrogs are but inconfiderable places. Balaganskoi OJlrog, on the Angara, was built before that of Irkutz, and is a place of fome note. It is defended only by two pieces of brafs cannon. Near this OJlrog are about fixty good dvvelling-houfes, which are partly in- habited by Slujhwies or irregular troops, and partly by traders, who are all in. very good circumftances. IVercolenskoi OJlrog, which ftands on the river Lena. 3. The Circle of Selenginsk, or Selengiskoi Uiezd. The following places of note lie in this Diilricf. Selenginsk, a town fituated on the river Selenga ; was made an Ojlrog in 1666; but about twenty years after that, the fort, which is now ftanding, was built ; and to this the place owes its proiperity. The town lies parallel to the river, and contains two churches and one hundred and fifty houfes, which are inclofed in the fortification. The latter is defended by five pieces of brafs cannon, and as many iron guns ; and the garrifbn confifts of a regiment of foldiers. The inhabitants have the nickname of Pefojhniki, from the great quantities of fand found in thefe parts. The whole adjacent country is very mountainous and barren ; but there is good arable land fifteen Werfis below it. The country about Salengisk yields a very great plenty of rhubarb ; and all the rhubarb that is exported from Rußia grows in thefe parts. Strielki, a fort erected on a* point of land between the rivers Tßnkoi and Selenga, is alfo called Petra i Pawlo/kaia Krepofl, 1. e. ' the fort of Peter ' and Paul. 1 It is a fquare inclofure, furrounded with pallifadoes, and includes the garrifon church, and that of the Chinefe caravans; and likewife «he habitations and magazines belonging to the latter, the foldiers barracks, 520 RUSSIA. [Irkutsk. &c. The houfes of the commandant, foldiers, and other inhabitants are built without the pallifadoes. This place ought to be garrifoned with a whole regiment for the defence of the frontiers ; but, at preient, it is not complete. The adjacent country is fertile and pleafant. Troitzkaia Rrepojl, on the fmall river Kiakta, is a fort lately built on the frontiers, and confifts of an Oflrog with four baftions. All traders and merchants who pafs through this place are obliged to pay duty for their goods, unlefs they quit the road, and go another way to avoid the fort. Kiakta, or Kiaktinskoi Krepoß, and Kiaktinskaia Torgowaia Sloboda, are the limits between Ritßa and China towards the South, as they were fettled by Count Samoa IFladi/lawitz Ragußnßi, according to a treaty concluded in 1727. Before that time the river Bura, which lies about eight Werfls further towards the fouth, was looked upon as the boundary between the Ruffian and Chinefe Empire ; and this was more conformable to the natural divifion of the countries, as well as more advantageous to Ruffia, than the prefent limits ; which are arbitrarily laid out acrofs defarts, and over mountains, and afcertained by pillars erected along the frontiers, and properly numbered. By this alteration of the frontier, the Ruffians have alfo loft the excellent iron- ore which the mountains near the river Bura, and no other place in thefe parts, afforded. Two Slobodes, one of which is inhabited by Ruffians and the other by Chinefe, were erected on the banks of the little river called Kiakta in the year 1727 : the former lies on the north, and the latter on the fouth fide of the river. They lie about a hundred and twenty fathoms afunder, and are furrounded with an Oftrog ; and the Ruffian Siobode is further defended by fix baftions and a moat. Between thele two Slobodes a barrier is erected, and a guard placed, who, on both fides, are very careful that no encroachments be made on the frontiers. As the Slobodes are fituated in a barren wafte, all forts of provisions are very dear there. The Chinefe traders are more numerous than the Ruffian merchants in thefe frontier towns. Timkinskoi OJlrogYies to the weft ofKaikta in Latitude 50 15'; and, con- sequently, is placed too far to the north in the maps. In the neighbourhood of this Oßrog live the roving Soictians, who are pagan Tartars. On the other fide of Sclengifisk, near the lake of Baikal, lie the following remarkable places. Udiusk, which is a fmall town on the river Uda that runs into the Selenga not far from this place. In the year 1670, an Oßrog was erected on this foot; and in 1688, a fort was built here, which ftands on the eaft fide of the town upon a hill, and is defended by five brafs guns. The town confifts of one hundred and lixteen dwelling-houfes, and round it are fine fields and meadows, with great plenty of wood. Udinsk alfo ftands on a navigable river; and the road to the fouth and eaft frontiers of China lies through this town. Here is plenty of provifions, particularly garden fruit and Irkutfk.] RUSSIA. 521 and fifh ; and about the latter end of Augufi great numbers oiOmuli, which are a fpecies of whitings, are caught in the river Sele?iga. Illinskoi O/lrog, or Bolßmia Salmka, which (lands on the river Selenga. Troitskoi Monaßir, an ancient, {lately, and rich convent. Kabanskoi Oßrog is built near the brook Kabana, which, about half a Werfi from this place, runs into a branch of the Selenga. The country hereabouts affords good arable land and excellent paflures. Pofolskoi Monaßir, a convent on the louth fide of the Baikal-lake. Jtanzlnskoi Oßrog lies, indeed, in the Diftrid: of Selenginsk ; but properly belongs to Nertßnmk. This place is famous for Bratski-ivork, by which mod of the RuJJlan inhabitants get a fubfiflence. Barguzlnskoi Oßrog flands on the little river Barguzln, which falls into the lake of Baikal. 4. The Circle of Nertshinsk, or Nertßn'nßoi Uiezd. In this Diftrict are, Nertßnmk, a frontier town towards China, which was built on the river Nert- fha in the year j 658. In the fort, which was the firfl beginning of the town, are thirty-two brafs guns and one of iron. The town, beiides i'ome public edifices, contains one hundred and fifty houfes, moil of which are very meanly built. The inhabitants give themfelves up entirely to floth, drunkennefs, and debauchery. The Chinefe caravans formerly palled through this place ; but now they take another road. However, the Rußian Envoys are re- ceived and handfomely entertained by the Chinefe, and the like compliment is paid to thole of China by the Ru ans, in this town. A treaty of peace was concluded at Nertßnmk between Raffia and China in the year 1 689. This town feems to derive its name from the two fmall rivers called Nertß.a and Shinke, between which it lies. The adjacent country is, indeed, very mountainous, but yields excellent pafture for cattle. Argunsk, an O/lrog which lies on the wefl fide of the Argun. It was firfl built in 1682, on the eafl bank of that river, for the conveniency of levying the tribute payable by the Tungußans, who inhabit thefe parts -, but in 1689, Argunsk was built on its prefent fituation. It is the furthefl fort towards the Eall on the Mungalian frontiers ; has a good garrifon ; and carries on a considerable trade with the Mungals. The adjacent country is very fertile, and the air falubrious, but fo cold that in fummer the earth, in many places, is not thawed above two or three feet below the fuiface. The territory of Argunsk is commonly lubjecl: to flight fhocks of an earthquake in the fpring, and about the beginning of winter. The difeafes to which the inhabitants of the country about Argunsk are moflly fubjedt, are Epilepfie::, a diftemper called Woloß'ez, and the Lues Venerea ; and the lall is fo common here, that the young and old of both fexes are miferably afflicted with it. In thefe parts the Chinefe ereil every year new pillars, to mark the limits of their frontiers, on the eaflern bank of the Argun. Not far from Argunsk are the Argunsklan filver-mines, which are alfo called the Nertßnnskian mines. The fmelting houfes, which belong to V o l. I, X x x them, c 22 RUSSIA. [Irkutfk. them, fland on the little river Tufatki, about fourteen Werßs from the river A/gun, and fix or feven from the rivulet Serebrenka. Thefe works are built in a valley between two mountains, which extend a good way from Weft to Eafl. The ore does not lie deep in the earth ; though it is found in mafies or Strata. The profit arifing from thefe mines is not very great ; however, it anfwers the expence of refining, &c. One pound of fine filver extracted from this ore contains the value of two ducats and a half of fine gold, which has a beautiful colour and is exceeding malleable. Twenty-fix Puds and fome odd pounds of pure filver, and twenty-feven pounds of fine gold, both which were the produce of this mine, were delivered in at Petersburg for the ufe of the crown in 1740 and 1741. Two leagues to the fouth-eafl of this place is a mountain of a beautiful green jafper, but not without a mixture of common flone; fo that it is rare to meet with pieces weighing three pounds quite tranfparent and without flaws. In the neighbouring wafle are feveral falt-lakes, one of which is above three Werßs in circumference; and on the furface of the water good common fait floats in great quantities. Sitanskoi Oflrog, which (lands at the influx of the river Tß:iia into the Ingoda, Terawninskoi Oflrog, which lies on the bank of the lake Terawna. 5. The Circle of Yakutsk, or lakutzkoi Uiezd. In this Diftri<3 are the following remarkable places. Takutzk lies near the river Lena, and confifts of between five and fix hundred houfes meanly built.; and a wooden fort (lands near the town. It is fupplied with plenty of feveral kinds of fifh. The circumjacent country is, indeed, very fit for tillage ; but the inhabitants choofe to employ them- felves in hunting. Olecminskoi Oflrog, which alfo (lands on the Lena, derives its name from the river Oleoma, which falls into the Lena about fixteen Werßs from this town. This is one of the oldefl Oßrogs in thefe parts ; but confifts only of few mean houfes, and has no more than forty-fix peafants families in its territory. The country which lies between this place and Witimsk is level, and fo fertile, that it might plentifully fupport a great number of inhabitants if they were induflrious. The rye, barley, oats, and hemp which grow here, are very good in their kind ; however, the country is but indifferently cultivated. Witimskaia Sloboda is one of the oldefl Ruffian fettlements on the banks of the Lena, and is almoll as ancient as the town of Iakutzk. It con- fifts of few houfes, a church, and a cuflom-houfe. Though this place lies in 59 28' north Latitude, yet the harvefl, when the weather proves favourable, is feldom later than the middle of Anguß old flile. Farther north towards the Ice-Sea is the river Karaulac, which runs into a bay of the Frozen Ocean. Near this river Lieutenant Laßemus wintered with his party in the year 1735, and from the fixth day of November to the eighteenth of January they never faw the fun above the Horizon. 6. The territory of Ocotzk lies on the coaft of the fea of Kamtfljatka y and takes its name from the Ocotzkoi Oflrog, which (lands on the little river Irkutflc.] RUSSIA. river Ocota, and is the refidence of a Governor, under whofe jurifdicTion arc the O/lrogs of Tavißoi, Ud/koi, and Anadirfkoi. From the harbour of Ocotzk, which is three Werßs from the O/irog, the Rujfiam crofs over into the peninfula of Kamtjhatka. The foil about the Ocotzkoi O/irog produces little or no grafs ; and provifions are brought hither from lakutzk, both by land and water. The laft method of conveyance is very tedious, and attended with fome danger : nor is the land-carriage free from difficulties ; for the diftance is nine hundred and nineteen Werßs, and the road lies over mountains, and through morafies and thick woods of larch and birch-trees, lb that the journey takes up near fix weeks. Bciidcs, every thing rauft be carried this way on horfes or rein-deer, and the latter are furnifbed by the Tungufians who live in the neighbourhood of Ocotzk. The north-eaft extremity of Siberia is ftill but very little known. The cape at the furtheft north point of this country called Tßuketßm, [in the maps Shalaginskoi Nofs] is in Siberia, and confequently belongs to Rußa. Near the promontory, or north-eaft point of the continent, is an ifland called Diomedes; and near the eaft point lies the ifland of St. Laurence. 7. The peninfula of Kamtshatka runs upwards of one hundred and fifty German miles into the fea towards the ßuth-eaft ; on the North it joins to the continent ; to the Weft and South of it are the bay of Penßinsk and the fea of Kamtßatka ; and towards the Eaft it is bounded by the Eajlern Ocean. From the extreme fouth-eaft point of this peninfula a chain of great and fmall iflands extends as far as Japan. On fome of thefe iflands are Vt bands, or burning mountains ; and feveral of them are fubject to terrible earthquakes. On the peninfula of Kamtßatka, not far from the river of the fame name, which runs into the Eaflern Ocean, there is alfo a burning mountain, and violent ihocks of an earthquake are often felt in the neighbourhood of it. Some fpecies of plants that grow in Lapland, and others that were thought peculiar to Canada in North America, are found here, which is fomething remarkable. Since the beginning of the prefent century fome Ruflian colonies have fettled in thefe parts, and built feveral forts and villages. The moft remark- able among thefe are, Nißnei Kamtßatzkoi Oflrog, which ftands near the mouth of the river Kamtßatka. Werknei K --koi Oßrog. St. Reter and St. Paul's Hat hour. BcijL.retzb.i Oßrog. I cannot pretend to fay more of this country, which is fo little known, with any certainty. Of Kamtßadalen I have given fome account above. Note. Kamtshatka has, of late, been rendered famous by the attempts made from thence, to difcover whether Siberia be joined to America to- wards the North ; or whether there be a north-eaft paflage by fea between thefe two continents. X x x 2 The 523 5 2 4 RUSSIA. [Irkutfc. The Czaar Peter the Great gave orders, that Captain Beering, a Z)^w, who took along with him Lieutenant Spangenberg, who was alfo a Dane ; and M. Tßirikow, a Ruffian, fhould fail from hence to make this difco- very. After that Emperor's death, the fame Gentlemen were actually fent out by his confort and fucceffor the Czarina Catharine in the year 1725; but, after fpending about five years in the voyage, they returned, without fuccefs, in the fpring of the year 1730. They failed as far as the fixty-feventh degree of North Latitude ; and found that the land ex- tended no farther towards the North. In the year 1732, the very fame fea-officers were fent out a fecond time in profecution of this difcovery. Spangenberg fteered his courfe to tl e South-eaft, arrived at the northern coaft of Japan, and from thence failed back to Ocotzk. Captain Beering, accompanied by one M. Steiler, fet fail from St. Peter and St. Paul's harbour, and fteered towards the South-eaft; but meeting with no land after he had failed about two hundred and fifty leagues, he dire&ed his courfe to the North-eaft, and, at laft, difcovered land towards the North-weft. On the twentieth of July 1 741, he anchored near an ifland in 59 40' North Latitude, to which he gave the name of Elias-IJland. From thence he failed betwixt the fouth and weft points nearer to the continent of America, of which he alfo had fight. After this, he landed on an ifland in the fifty-third degree of North Latitude, and had fome little traffick with the Americans who lived upon it : to this ifland Captain Beering gave the name of Skumagin. In the fifty-firft decree and odd minutes of North Latitude, he difcovered an ifland to the North-weft-and-by-north, which he called St. Martians Ißand. Two days after, he faw feveral other iflands to the North-north-weft, to which he gave the name of St. Stephens Ißands ; and the next day he difcovered another ifland to the Weft, which he called St. Abraham's Ißand. The Captain, in his return, was fhipwrecked on an ifland near the coaft of Katmßoatka, where he ended his days. In 1742, the reft of the crew arrived fafe at the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, in a fmall bark which they had made out of the wreck of the fhip. M. Tßririkoio, who was accompanied by Profeffor De /' Iße de la Croyere, fet fail from Kamtßwtka; continued his courfe till he came within four- teen degrees weft of California, and failed twelve degrees and a half to the north of that country where no voyager had been before. M. Tßririkow, on his return, faw land for feveral days together to the North of his courfe, and when he failed near the coaft, he could diftinguifh the inhabi- tants-, and feveral of them rowed to him in fmall boats, like thofe ufed by the Greenlanders and Efquimaux. Perhaps, this land is a continuation of that near the North Pole, which joins to America, From thefe difcoveries of the Rußians it may be concluded, that Aßa and America, about the fixty-fixth degree of North Latitude, are feparated from each other only by a very narrow channel. T LI E THE KINGDOM O F PR U S S I A. [5*7] INTRODUCTION T O T H E KINGDOM of PRUSSIA * §. i. ]\/T Henneberger's map of Prußa, which was firft published in 1576, _VA. and afterwards in 1638 and 1656, is the firil map of this country that is delineated with any accuracy. This was the ground work of the maps publifhed by Jan/ßn, Danckert, Witten, Vifcher, Schenk, Homann, and Seutter. However, a truly correct and ufeful map of Prußa may be mil looked upon as one of the geographical De/iderata. The map delineated by the King's order in 1703, by M. Suckodoletz, chief fur- veyor of the canals and dikes, has, indeed, the reputation of a very good performance, which makes me wifh for the publication of it. Prußa is alio fometimes included in the maps of Poland.- In the year 1733, a map of Lithuania, conlifting of two meets of royal paper, was published : this has the name of every particular place ; but, at the fame time, is far from being accurate. §.2. Prußa is bounded partly by water, and partly by other countries. Towards the North it borders on part of Samogitia, towards the Eaft on the Lithuanian Palatinates of Trocko and Podolia ; to the South of it lie Poland and Mafovia ; and to the Weft it is bounded by Po/iß Prußa and the Baltic. The length of it, from the northern extremity near Deutfch- Krottingen to So/dau, is forty German or geographical miles, and the breadth, from the borders of the great Dutchy of Lithuania near Schirzvind to the weftern coaft of Samlatid, is twenty-four German miles ; but in other places it is much narrower. * By the Kingdom of Prußa the Author does not mean Regal Prußa or Prußa Royal, which is fubjecl to Poland ; but only that part which by other writers is called Ducal Prußa, and be- longs to the Houfe of Brandenburg. i §-3- As 52 8 INTRODUCTION TO §.3. As to the climate and temperature of the air, the two laft months of the fpring, and the two firft fummer months are temperate, warm, and pleaiant ; and the weather generally very favourable to bring the fruits of the earth to maturity : But before and after thefe months the air is cold and piercing ; the autumns being often wet, and the winters fevere. How- ever, the air is well purified by frequent ftorms and high winds. As for the diftempers peculiar to Prußa, the inhabitants are more fubject to the gout and ftone than to the fcurvy. §. 4. The foil produces plenty of corn, efculent herbs, fruit, and paftu- rage. Prußa alfo abounds with flocks and herds, and exceeding fine horfesj its chief commodities are wool, honey, wax, pitch, pit-coal, flax, hemp, hops, and buckwheat. This country alfo affords plenty of game, as white and common hares, elks, ftags, deer ; roebucks, and wild boars, but, at the fame time, it is in- fefted with beafts of prey as lynxes, wolves, foxes, and bears. As for wild affes and horfes, they feem to have deferted Pruffia of late ; and the buffaloes that ufed to frequent this country have been extirpated by the poachers. Woods, and efpecially thofe of oak, are faid to be greatly diminifhing in Prafjia ; particularly in the leffer Lithuania. The PruJJian Manna, called Schwade?igri which was formerly the Cuftom-houfe, when. Samland.j PRUSSIA 545 when the fca came up fo far. This ftrong lofty edifice ferves as a land- mark for fhips bound to Pillau ; and accordingly they pay a fmall duty towards the fupport of it. Nothing can exceed the prolpect which this place affords ; for it extends to a part of Samland, Natangen, Ermland, and feveral miles be- yond Pillau, and is diverfified with the view of the fhips coming in and going out of the harbour, and the Nerung or narrow flip of land that lies between the haven and the feä. In Wogram near the Frifche-Haf lies the Storbude, where the fturgeons are boiled and packed up, and likewiie where Caviar is made of the roe of that fifh ; and mod of thefe are exported to England. The fiihermen in thefe parts catch no lefs than thirty different fpecies of fca and frefh-water fifli ; in the Droflclzeit, or thruih-feafon here are aftonifhing flights of thruihes, black-birds, and magpyes. A great number of kitchen- lens ami orchards are to be feen round thefe villages. After pafling the delicious lpot about Alt Pillau, you crofs over a barren piece of ground to a well cultivated farm, and the Pillau Kruge, as it is called, which is a public houfe Handing in a moil delightful grove, confifting of various kinds of trees, which grow fo clofe together as to afford a good fhelter from the rain. It was, probably, from this charming grove that the ad- jacent country acquired the name of Paradife. Such, however, is the * Paradife of Prußa.' c Ienckittcn, or St. Albrecht, was formerly a vilkge with a church ; and the ruins of the latter are ffill to be feen. Tenkitten church was built in honour of St. Adalbert, who fuffered martyrdom in this place on the twenty-fourth of April in the year of Chrift 997. Here alio formerly was a deep channel through which the fhips ufed to pafs. Amber is gathered along this whole coaft, being left on fhore by the fea ; and the inhabitants alio frequently dig and filh for it. Fine gray writing fand is likewiie thrown up here by the waves. Lockfled, a fmall and mean town, where the marks of a channel are ftil! plainly icen, which may now be fafely eroded either on horfe-back or in a carriage. Part of the ancient famous caftle of Lock/led is ftill remaining, in which is to be (cen the dreadful prifon or dungeon where criminals were confined by the ancient Sovereigns of this country. Galgarben, formerly called Geylgarben, a village near which is the higheft, hill in Prußa, which is faid to have been thrown up by the ancient Pagan inhabitants. This place Was formerly fortified, and the Sovereigns of the country refided in it. 2. The Government of Schaaken. In this Haut-amt are ten churches, which are under the jurifdidtion of the Arch-Prelbyter of Schaaken; and the following places of note, Schaaken, an old caftle with a fmall town, lies about half a Geman mile from the bay called Curifche-HaJ . It was taken by King Ottocar from the Pagan inhabitants ; but was afterwards rebuilt and improved by the Vol. I. 4 A Knightß 54 6 PRUSSIA. [Samland. Knights of the Teutonic Order. It is the refidence of the Amts-haupt-man or Governor ; though he generally lives in the neighbourhood of the town. The whole country hereabouts is quite level. PaiTengers ufually embark at this place to crofs to Mcmcl. Rudau, a church-village, which, on account of its fituation in a defile, was formerly fortified with a caftle, which now lies in ruins. This place is re- markable for the victory obtained by the Knights of the Teutonic Order in 1370, over Kinflud Great Duke of Lithuania, in memory of which a ftone pillar was erected in a field near the village of Tranzau, which is ftill re- maining. The miracle of the blood laid to have been found in the chalice at the celebration of the Eucharill in this village, in the year 16 15, may be ex- plained by natural caufes. A great many ancient monuments of the Ir'agan idolatrv are ftill to be ken in the neighbourhood of Rudau. The Vier Bruderfeide, which monument, in all probability, was erected to the memory of four brothers or Knights of the Teutonic Order, who about the year 1295 were attacked by furprife and killed on the fpot by the Pagan Sudavians, ftand in the middle of the road in the Capcmißen Heide, or heath cf Caporn, which is a roval foreft flocked with elks and roe-bucks. The ftatues on the top of thefe four pillars or pedeftals have a good attitude and are very well executed. Thefe monumental ftatues have been repaired and kept up, from time to time, for the fpace of four hundred years, fometimes by the Prefecture of Caporn, fometimes by the fociety of hunters, in whofe diftrict it ftands, and fometimes by the Governments of Schaaken and Fifch- haußen, according to the directions of the Sovereigns of the country. Kaymen, a large church village and Prefecture, where the unhappy pea- fants made an infurrection in the year 1525; but were foon reduced to obedience. The Curifehe Nerung, in Latin Peninfula Curouenßs, may very properly be taken notice of here, though a part of it only belongs to this Government. This narrow flip of land reaches from the village of Kranskrug almoft to Memel, and feparates the Baltic-fea from the Curißhc-Haf. It is about fixty Eng/ijb miles in length, and in raoft parts one in breadth. This pe- ninfula is a barren, fandy tract of land, where the high winds often make great ravages by blowing up the fand into ridges and hills, which obliges the poor inhabitants often to remove their dwellings, and tear up great numbers of pine-trees by the roots, which lie fcattered about till they rot. Moft of the trees, particularly on the Baltic fide, are more or Ids blafted, and appear like bare trunks. This wood, however, affords ihelter for ftags, falcons, and thrufhes. The bottom of the Curifibe-Haf is claicy and ftony, which, with the many capes projecting from it, renders it very dan- gerous for mariners. There are feveral fmall, mean villages on the penin- fula called Nerung, among which the following belong to the Government of Sc&äak, viz, Sarkau, which has a church 5 LaftenivaU-, Kunze», which has alfo Samland.] PRUSSIA. 547 alfo with a church ; Roßt ten, in which formerly a Burgraf refided, and where the ruins of an old caftle are ftill to be feen ; and Pilkoppen, where (lands a high hill, on which the Pruffian idol called Pilkov was formerly worfhipped. The villages of Niddcn, Carwaiten, Negeln and Sdnvartzort, the inhabitants of which fubfift by filhing, and have very few cattle, belong to the Government of Memel. 3. The Government of Labiau, including eleven churches, five of which are under the jurifdi&ion of the Senior Court-chaplain at Königsberg, and the remaining under the Arch-Prefbyter of Labiau. The moft remarkable places in this Government are, Neuhaufen, an old caftle, lying about fix Englijh miles from Königsberg, which formerly ferved as a fummer retirement for the Canons of Königsberg. The Margrave Albert was fo fond of this place that he often fpent fome time here, and diverted himfelf with hunting. Here is a Court of Juftice for the Governments of Fifehhuafen, Schaaken, Labiau, and Tapiau. Kalthof, and Waldau, are two Prefectures in this Government. The former remarkable for its fine fituation, and an elegant houfe of entertain- ment, and the latter for feveral remains of antiquity. Klein Heyde, a pleafant royal manor. Labiau, a trading town on the river Deine, with an ancient caftle. Rautenburg, a good town belonging to Count Keyferling. Note. In this Government are feveral navigable rivers abounding with fiih, and canals or dikes lately cut. Among the latter are the following. The Ngw Deim, which begins at the royal manor of Schmerberg, and is carried in a direct line for two German miles and a half as far as Tapiau, where it joins the Pregel. The new Gilge which reaches from the church-village of Lappenen to the village of Skepen, where it runs into the river Gilge. Two new canals called the Great and Little Frederick's Graben, which join the river Deim with the Wippe and Nemmonin, and alfo joins the latter with the Gilge. This work, which is fo convenient for the trade with Poland, was executed between the years 1688 and 1696 by order of the Countefs dowager of Waldburg, who was born at Rauter in Rautenburg. The Little Frederick's Graben begins at the river Gilge, not far from Rautenburg, is about fix Englijh miles in length, and extends as far as the fifhing village of Petricken,wheYC it falls into the river Nemmonin. The Great Frederick's Graben commences at the Wippe, which is a branch of the river Nemmonin, is carried on for three German miles to Labiau, and then joins the river Deim. The Counts of Waldenburg received a toll from all vefTels which palled by this canal, till the King purchafed that right in the year 171 3, and made it a part of the royal demefnes. The inhabitants on the banks of this canal are termed Grabcninker, and, at prefent conftitute a diltinct Amt or Govern- ment called the Graben Amt. 4A2 4. The 54.8 PRUSSIA. [Old Natangen. 4. The Government of Tapiau, containing eighteen churches, which are under the jurildiction of the Arch-Prefbyter of Welau. In this Govern- ment are the following towns, £JV. 'tapiau, a regularly built, but mean little town, which had no privileges nor fo much as a magiftrate till the year 1722. It ftands at the conflux of the Pregel and the Deim ; and has a large caftle, which is furrounded with a moat, where, formerly, the records of the Kingdom were kept. Duke Albert died here in the year 1568. Welau, an ancient, well built town founded in 1336, ftands on an ifland at the conflux of the Alle and the Pregel. It lies properly in Natan- gen, and yet belongs to this Government. This town confifts of two princi- pal and five crofs ftreets, two fuburbs, and two hundred and fixty-four houfes. It ha; about one hundred and fifty burghers, beiides the other inhabitants. After the fire, which broke out here in 1736, the buildings have been much improved ; however, Welau, never recovered its former trade. This town is chiefly remarkable in hiftory for the treaty concluded here with Poland on the nineteenth of September 1657, when the Elector Frederick William was inverted with the Sovereignty of Ducal PruJJia ; and this inveftiture was alio ratified at Bidgq/l, or Bromberg, in Poland. Sanditten, a noble feat with a fine manor near the Pregel, belongs to Count Schlichen. Taplaken, a feat and Prefecture. In the adjacent country were formerly Buffaloes, which the inhabitants in fnowy-weather houfed in their barns. Allinburg, an obicure little town ; but it is well Iituated on the river Albe. Wohnfdorf, a caftle pleafantlv iituated between Allenbitrg and Fried/and. It is famous for its antiquity, and belongs to Baron Schroder. II. O L D N A T A N GEN. THIS country is populous and well cultivated, and confifts partly of arable and partly of meadow land ; fo that agriculture and graz- ing turn to good account here. Though the foil is in fome parts very ftony, yet it produces better corn than Samland or Little Lithuania. It is alio well wooded and yields all forts of game, and plenty of fifh. Old Natangen contains the following Governments. I. The Haupt-amt or Government of Brandenburg, which includes the Amts or Prefectures of Karfchau Hobbelbude, Udencangeu, and Doljladt. It alio contains twenty-nine churches, which are under the jurifdiöion of the principal court chaplain at Königsberg. The mod remarkable places in this Government arc, Brandenburg, Old Natangen.] PRUSSIA. Brandenburg, an indifferent town, with fome good houfcs in it, but moftly inhabited by fifhermen. It lies at the mouth of the Huntau near the Frifche-Haf. The large caftle of Brandenburg was built in the year 1266 by Of ho, Margrave of Brandenburg; and was deflroycd by the Pn/ßans in 1 520, but afterwards rebuilt. This was formerly a Comturey, as it is called •, but Duke Frederick abolifhed that privilege, and made it a Government, whole chief officers arc fliled directors of the provincial council. Charlottenthal, a fine feat in a pleafant lituation, built by Frederick Lewis, Duke of Holjlein Beck, who named it Charlottenthal from his Lady Char lot a. Friderickflein, a noble feat, is moft delightfully fituated, and belongs to Count Donhof, who is alfo proprietor of the manor of Barten. Kreutzburg, a little town, which has an old caftle built in 1252 by the Knights of the 'Teutonic Order. Friedland, a town on the river Alle, which has often fuffered by fieges both from the Poles and Swedes ; and alfo by frequent fires. Domnau, a mean town with a caftle. Several monuments of antiquity are to be feen in the neighbouring country. Grofs-ivaldeck, a feat of the Barons of Kittlitz., to whom it was granted in 1536' by the Margrave Albert. On the fame fpot formerly flood the con- vent of the Holy Trinity ; and the inn which ftands near this feat is ftill called the Convent-Inn. The city of Romoure, which was the chief feat of the Pagan idolatry of thefe parts, flood in the fame fituation. 2. The Government of Balga, containing fourteen churches, which are under the jurifdi&ion of the Senior Court-Chaplain of Königsberg. In this Government are the following places of note. Balga, a town feated on the Frifche-haf, with a very old caftle which was taken by the Knights of the Teutonic order fo early as the year 1 238. It was formerly a Comturey, which Duke Frederick, Grand-Mafter of the Order, converted into a Haupt-amt or Government. Bladicu, or Pladia, a fmall town, or village. Zinten, a fmall town, which has often fuffered by fire. In the year 1520, the Poles were defeated near this place. Heiligenbeil, in Latin Santla civitas, and in the Poli/Jj language Sxviata Sickierka, is a fmall town feated on the Jafte or Gar ft, which, a little below this place, joins the Banaiv, and falls into the Frifche-haf. This town is faid to have been founded in the year 1301. It is famous for fine beer and excellent white bread ; as alfo for being the feat of idolatry of the an- cient Prußians, who ufed in a very folemn manner to worfhip the idol Qiretro under a large oak in this place. The Chriftians who founded the new town, feem to have altered the ancient name of Heiligjladt into that of 549 5$o PRUSSIA [Old Natangen. oi'H.e,ilegenbeil from the city arms, which are two axes or bills placed crofs- wife. On the luppreffion of pagan idolatry, the confecrated grove which had been long inclofed, was alio defecrated and thrown open to the great advantage of the town. As for the miracle related by modern writers .of an ax with which the facred oaks are faid to have been hewn down, the ancient hiftpfians are entirely filent on that head. This town was total Iv deftroyed by fire in 1463, J 5 19, and 1677. Lindenau, a feat with an elegant garden belonging to Count Seeguth. 3. The Government of Bartenstein lies in Bartailand, as it wa formerly called, and contains fixteen churches, which are under the ju- rifdiction of the Arch-Prefbyter of Bartenßein. The remarkable places in this Government are, P ruffian Elan, in Latin Gilavia Boruffica, fo called to diftinguifh it from German-Elaw, is a fmall town which was built in the year 1528. Landßerg, a fmall town, which, at prefent belongs to Count Schwerin. The famous Andrew Grunheyde, who ufed to fwallow knives, was buried here in 1645. A knife which he had fwallowed was taken out of him by incifion, without the lofs of his life. Bartenßein, the moft regular and bell built town in Natangen. It ftands in a pleafant country on the river Alle, and has the precedency of all the towns in Prußa. Its old caftle, which was built by the Knights of the Teutonic Order about the middle of the thirteenth century, was in ancient times frequently befieged. An Arch-Preibyter refides in this town. Kirfitten, a feat belonging to M. Kunheim. Gaalingen, a feat of Baron Eulenburg. Pefien and Bucholts are two eftates belonging to M. Kreytzen. Stablauken, an eftate, the income of which is appropriated for the King's privy purfe. 4. The Governments of Gardauen and Nordenburg are alfo part of the old province of Barten. Thefe united Diftriifls was by grant from the Grand Matter, which was confirmed by the fucceeding Sovereigns, conferred on the brave George Schlieben, a Knight of the Teutonic Order, for him- felf and his heirs, in coniideration of the important aiiiftance brought by that Knight againft the Poles in 1460 ; though feveral other noble families live within this hereditary Prefecture. It contains feven churches, which are under the direction of the Arch-Preibyter of Raftenburg and the conliftory of ' Sa inland. In this Government are the following remarkable places. Gerdauen, a fmall town built in the year 1325. It is feated on the river Otnet, and has two feats or caftles belonging to the Count and Baron Schlieben : the new feat is magnificent and has an elegant garden. The town derives its name from E. Gerdaw, a Prußan Nobleman, near whofe caftle it was built in the above-mentioned year. In a lake near this town is a floating ifland, which is a plat of ground covered with verdure, and driven Old Natangen.] PRUSSIA. 55 r driven to and fro from one one bank of the lake to the other. It was formerly three hundred and fifty paces in length, and two hundred and fifty in breadth ; fo that it afforded pafture for a hundred head of cattle : but at prefent it is divided into feveral little pieces which are continually decreasing. This ifland is called the Gerdauen Almanac, becaufe the in- habitants of the town prognosticate approaching {forms by its motions. Nordenburg, a fmall town and caStle, built by the Knights of the Teutonic Order in the year 1305. It Hands on the north fide of the Afchwin-hk?) and belongs to Count Schlichen. Berkenfeld, a fine feat and gardens, and a very profitable glafs-manu- faftory, which belong to the lame Nobleman, and alio the two following feats, viz. Dombrofken, and Adaim-heide. Wandlacken was purchafed of Count Schlichen by King Frederick William for the fum of 42,000 dollars. Great and Little Benahmen are two eStates belonging to Count DonhoJ', which he purchafed of Count Lohndorf jn the year 1702. 5. The Government of Barten is a very pleafant country, which has induced many families of distinction to have their principal feats here. It includes eight churches, which are under the jurisdiction of the Arch-Prefbyter of Rajlenburg. The moil remarkable places in this Government are, Barfei, a fmall but well built town, with a Stately caltle or palace. It was erected on the Liehe in the middle of the fourteenth century j and was formerly the refidence of the BiShop of Pomefania, and the Knights of the Teutonic Order. Drengfurth, a little town which Stands at the foot of a mountain, was built in the year 1403. Scandalack, a feat of Baron Buddenhrock. Neuhofy a feat belonging to Baron Heideck. Steinort, a fine feat with a good eftate belonging to it, is the property of Count Lohndorf'. 6. The Government of Rastenburg. The Arch-Prefbytery of Raflen- burg is very extenSlve, and comprehends not only the eighteen churches belonging to this Haupt-amt ; but alfo thofe included in the Governments of Barten, Sehe/lein, Rhain, and Gerdauen. Places of note in this District are, Rajlenburg, a handfome town with a caftle feated on the river Guber. It was founded in the year 1329 ; and though it was destroyed by the Li- thuanians in 1348, it was foon rebuilt, together with its caftle, and put in a more defensible State than before. It is inclofed with a wall, and, in the year 1669, it was alfo Surrounded with a rampart. The German parifh-church is the largeft and handibmeft Structure of that kind in all the Prußian inland towns, except the cathedral of Marieniverder ; and the fenior of the three Ministers belonging to it has alfo the fuperintendency oi S 2 P R U 8 S 1 A [Old Natangcn - öf forty-fix churches. The church of St. Catharine frauds 1n the fuburbs of Rajlenburg, ahd is one of the moft ancient in the Kingdom of Prußa \ and in the middle of the great Hofpital is the church of the Holy (Jhoji. This Hofpital was founded in the year 1 36 1, and confifts of two wards, where twenty indigent perfons are comfortably provided with food and a penfion in money. In the fecond hofpital twenty-five poor perfons are maintained by the alms and donations of well-difpofed benefactors. Here is a fchool under the direction of a Rector and three Affiftants. The Burghers, moft of whom are Lutherans, are about two hundred. The in- habitants of this town are fupported by fome little commerce, brewing, agri- culture, and mechanic trades. This town is pofieffed of the largeft territory of any inland tow n in all Prußa except Fifch-haufen j for it confifts of two hundred and thirty-eight Hides of land. A poft-houfe is alio fet up here. Raftenbnrg caftle was the refidence of forty Commanders and nine Grand Mafters of the Teutonic Order, from the year 1356 to the fecularization of the country. In the year 1 53 1 , a conference was held here be-twixt the Lutherans and the Anabaptifts. Die Heilige Linde, called in the Poliß language Su'iafa Lipka, is a rich convent, which flands in a large wood on the King's land. It lies about a German mile and a half from Rajlenburg* between the Epifcopal See of Reffel and the village of Beis/lack. The pretended miraculous image of the Virgin Mary in this convent is viiited by the Papifts from all parts, and even from Rome ; fo that 10,000 perfons have communicated here on the feaft of the Annunciation. Schippenheil, a middling town feated on the Alle near the influx of the river Gubcr, was built in the year 1319, and has fuffered extremely both by the ravages of war and by fire. In the year 1750, half of it was burnt down ; but it is already rebuilt with improvements. Leunebitrgj Lüneburg, or Eulenburg, a town and feat belonging to Baron Eulenburg. Grofi-WolfsJorf is a town, where the Counts of Donhof have built an elegant feat called Donhoffiedt, with a fine garden and park, and likewife a Calvinift-church. This feat is accounted one of the fineft in all the kingdom of Prußa. Grofs-Schivansfeld is a feat belonging to Baron Groben. 7. The Government of Angerburg, which is famous for producing the beft Schwade, or PruJJian Manna. The Arch-Prefbyter of Angerburg has twelve churches under his jurifdiction. Places of note in this Diftrict are, Angerburg, which is a modern well-built flourifhing town, furrounded with pallifadoes. It is alfo defended by a ftrong caftle built in the year 1335 on the bank of the lake where the river Angerapp has its fource. This lake, which is feven German miles in length, and one and a half in breadth, Oberland.] P R 77 S S I A. S53 breadth, is of great fervice to the town and abounds with eels. Angerburg church is a large handfome ttrudture. In the year 1725, an Arch-Prefbytery was founded here; and in 1734 and 1736 King Stanißaus made fome flay in this town. Stcinort, a noble feat of Count Lehndorf with one of the finctt gardens in all the country. The illand belonging to this feat in the Angerburg" lake, and the fummer-houfe built on it are extremely pleafant. Engelßein, a village, with a handfome church, which ttands in a thick wood. Here are fcveral remains of antiquity. 8. The Government of Sehesten lies in the province of Gali?idien. It contains fix churches which are under the jurifdiclion of the Arch- Prefbyter of Raßenberg. Bojen, a town feated on the Sallefi-hke. Sebeßen, a {mall town with a caflle, ttands on a lake. It was built, in the middle of the fourteenth century, in a very pleafant fituation. In the year 1520, it was facked and burnt by the Poles, and, in 1568, was laid in afib.es by an accidental fire. Aweyden, an eftate belonging to Count Finkenßein. III. OBERLAND. ^p HIS country is fertile, rich, and well cultivated ; and was formerly *■ called Hockerland. Before the Knight's of the Teutonic Order in- vaded Prufiia, Hockerland was fo populous, that it could bring into the field an army of 10,000 effective men, confiding of horfe and foot. But the Hockerlanders having, on feveral occafions, exercifed great cruelties towards the Chriftians, the Teutonic Knights in the year 1273 attacked the country, laid it wafle, and made themfelves matters of it. Oberland contains the following Hanpt-amts or Governments. 1. The Government of Gilgenbukg, which is an hereditary fief be- longing to Count Finkenßeiti's family. The churches in this Government are under the direction of the Arch-Prefbyter of Saalfeld. There is a Cal- vinift-church at Roßblau, and a Popifh-chapel at Tburau. The ancient town of Gilgenburg lies on the river Gilge near a lake ; the cattle belonging to it is very large and commodious. After the battle of 'Tannenburg, which was fought in 14 10, this town was laid in allies; and in the year 1520 it was facked and plundered. In 1578 it was entirely deftrcyed in the Sivedifb wars ; fo that even to this time it has not quite recovered its former condition. 2. The Government of Ortelsburg and Willenberg contains nine churches, which are fubject to the Arch-Prelbyter of Saalfeld. In this Government are the following places of note, Ortelsburg, a little town which is well fituated and carries on fome trade, with a fine old feat. On the twenty-fecond of May 1629, the V o l. I. 4 B Elector 554 PRUSSIA. [Oberland. Elector George William and Uladißaus had an interview in this place. The adjacent country is interfperfed with feveral lakes ; and between thefe are fine arable lands, meadows, and woods. Paßenheim, a fmall town feated on a lake, which was built at the-clofe of the fourteenth century. This town never arrived at any pitch of pro- fperity, on account of the frequent calamities of fire, war, and peftilence it has, from time to time, experienced. Willenberg, a fmall town on the frontiers of Poland, which obtained its privileges in the year 1723. Kuttenberg, a village, with a hunting-L-at. The adjacent country abounds with iron-ore. 3. The Government of Neidenburg, which the Elector Frederick William annexed to Soldau. It contains fourteen churches which belong to a particular Preibytery. Thefe are two Fopiih chapels on the frontiers > and the Calvinifts perform Divine Service in the caftle of Soldau. The following remarkable places lie in this Government. Neidenburg, a handfome town fituated in a very pleafant country, with a caftle and a court of Judicature. Soldau, called in the Poliß language Dzialdowo, is a free town with a caftle, and ftands on a lake near the frontiers of Poland. It was built in the year 1306, and has often fuffered by fire; efpecially in 1733 an( ^ 3 74^- The Arch-Prefbyter refides in this town ; which is remarkable for being the head-quarters of Charles Gußavus King of Sweden in the year 1656. 4. The united Governments of Osterrode and Hohenstein, The churches in this Government arc under the infpeclion of the Arch-Prefbyter of Saalfehl. The places moft worthy of notice in this Diftrict are, Oflerrode, a well-fit 11 ated trading town, which ftands on the lake of Dribentz, and a river of the fame, which plentifully fiipply it with fifh. The foil of the adjacent country is fandy ; but at the fame time fertile. The inhabitants of this town formerly carried on fome trade with G^eat Poland. The caftle of OJierrode was built in 1270 or 1302; and had formerly a 'Teutonic convent, and a Commander ie. In the year 1400, it was laid in allies; and in 1737 a falt-faclory was fet up here. In the year 1740, and 11 34, fome ancient Roman coins were found at a little diftance from this town, on the eftate of Görlitz, which belongs to the King of Prußia. Hohenßein, a fmall town with a caftle, which was built in 1312 at the fource of the Paß arge. 'Tannenberg, a church- village, lies between Gilgenburg and Hohenßein, and is famous for the obftinatc battle fought there on the fourteenth of July 14 10, between the Poles and the Knights of the Teutonic Order, wherein the latter were totally defeated ; and from that time the Order vifibly declined. 5. The Government of Deutsch or German Eylau. In this Diftricl: are two Popifli churches ; but the two Lutheran churches are fubjecT: to the Oberland] PRUSSIA. the Arch-Prefbyter of Saatfeld. This Government contains the following places of note. Deutjch Eylau, an open fmall town with an old caftle. It was built about the beginning of the fourteenth century, and Hands near a large lake in a very pk-afant country. Seewald, a (lately feat with fine gardens, and a paper-mill belonging to Count Finkenflcin. 6. The Government of Marienwerder, and that of Reisenburg arc both under one Governor ; but the former is a Prefbytery by itfelf. Ma- rienwerder contains 1 1,000 hides of land, and its Arch-Prefbyter has fix churches under his jurifdidion. The Arch-Prefbyter of ReifenSurg is alio a member of the Confiftory of Saalfeld; and has the fuperintcndency of the churches of three towns and ten villages, befides thofc of Schönberg Diftrict. The moft remarkable places in this divifion are, Marienwerder, called in Latin bifida Mariana, and in the Polifj lan- guage Kwidzin, a well-built town with a caftle, which ftands on the frontiers of Pomerania, not far from the Vijlula. It was formerly the refidence of the Bifhops of Po/nejhnia, and of fome Grand Mafters of the Teutonic Order. Marienwerder was at firft built in the year 1233, on a Werder* or fmall illand called Quidzin ; but was foon after rebuilt on its prefent fituation. The cathedral, which was eredted about the thirteenth century, is the largefl church in the kingdom of Pruffm, being three hundred and twenty feet long j and by its ftrong breaft-works feems to have formerly ferved for a fortrefs. The palace at Marienwerder is fpacious and built in the old Gothic tafle. The adjacent country is very pleafant, and full of emi- nences and gentle declivities. The inhabitants carry on a confiderable trade with their neighbours. In the year 1723 falt-works were fet up here, and a magazine for corn and forage in 1728. This town has often been damaged by inundations, war, and fire. The famous league formed by the towns and country againft the Knights of the Teutonic Order was concluded herein 1440. This town held out againft a vigorous fiege in 1520 j and in the year 16 13, it was for fome time the refidence of the Elector John Sigifmund. In 1709 the Czaar Peter the Great and Frederick I. King of Prufid had an interview at this place. King Stamflaus retired to this town from Da?itzick in July IJ34- Both the fuburbs of Marienwerder are continually improving. The adjacent country is fertile and well-inhabited ; and the great fluice on the Vijlula is kept in repair by affeffments on the Government, the town, and the neighbouring nobility. Gardenfee or Garnfee, by the Poles called Shlemuo, is a fmall trading town on the frontiers, fituated in a very pleafant country. Its caftle is very old. Reifenburg, a mean town with narrow ftreets, ftands on an eminence near the river Leibe, and derives its name from the adjacent Pruffian ter- ritory, which was anciently called Re/in. The Poles call it Prabutba, which * Werder fignines an ifland formed by a river. 4 B 2 fignifies S55 556 PRUSSIA. [Oberland. fignihes a ruinous houfe» The caftle, which is more ancient than the town, {lands on a hill, and is extremely decayed. It was the refidence of the Bifhops of Pomefania till the year 1587; and a conference for peace was held here betwixt the Poles and Swedes in 1628; but without fuccefs. The town was built in 1169, and contains a German and a Poli/h church. The Burghers, befides fome little commerce, fubfift by brewing, agriculture, and feeding of cattle. In 1323, 1414, and 1422, Reifenburg was burnt by the Poles. It was alio confumed by fire in 1628, 1688, and 1728. In the year 1556, an ecclefiaftical fynod was held here. In the neighbourhood of the town are three lakes, and higher up in the country are the ruins of a labyrinth made by the ancient Prußans. Birchojswerder, a fmall town on the river Affe, was founded in 1325; but fince the fire which confumed it in 1730, it has been rebuilt with more regularity. Freyßadt, a mean little town, but conveniently fituated on a lake. Lei/lenau, a feat and lordfhip belonging to Count Dohna. 7. The Government of Schonberg. The churches in this Diftrict are under the jurifdi&ion of the Arch-Prefbyter of Riefenburg. The places of note in this Government are, Schonberg, a village with a caftle, which was built at the clofe of the thirteenth century, and belongs to the Counts of Finkenßein. Rofenberg, a fmall town, lituated near two frefh water lakes. It was built in 1 3 19 ; and was almoft totally deftroyed by fire in the year 1400. Finkenßein, otherwife called Haberfdorf, is a fmall village with a ftately caftle and fine gardens, and belongs to the Finkenßein family. Langenau, a church-village and a noble manor belonging to the Kalnein family. The church is famous for its beautiful paintings. 8. The Government of Mohrungen, which the Ele&or Frederick Wil- liam incorporated with Liebstadt. In the formerare feven churches, and fix in the latter, which are all fubject to the Arch-Prefbyter of Holland. In this Government lies Mohrungen, a little town, where Count Dohna has a remarkable feat. This town is faid to have been begun in 1302, and compleated in 1328 ; but the old caftle had been erecled in 1280. It is well-built and furrounded with good walls and a double moat, and almoft encompaffed on all fides by the Mohrung-hke and a large mill-dam. Not far from this place is the lake of Scherting. As this little town lies in the road to Poland, it is much frequented by ftrangers. In the year 1697 it was entirely deftroyed by fire ; but has been fince rebuilt to greater advantage. The old caftle was formerly a convent belonging to the Teutonic Order, and, together with the town, muft have fuffered greatly in the many wars in which thofe Knights were concerned. In 1410 it was taken by the Poles, and in 1461, it was retaken by the Teutonic Knights; but in 1520 it was burnt by the- former. Rekhertfaahlc 3 Oberland.] PRUSSIA 557 Reichertfwalde, a church-village, where the Counts of Dohna have an elegant feat with fine gardens. Liebjladt, a fmall town with a caftle, built in the year 1329, which, befides feveral accidents by fire, has likewife fuffered much in the Swediß wars. 9. The Government of Preuschmark, which is united with Liebmuhl and Dollstadt under one Governor. Seventeen churches belong to this Haupt-amt, which are fubjecl to an Arch-Prefbyter who refides at Saatfeld. The remarkable places in this Government are, Preufchmark, a fmall village dependent on that of Liebivalde. It ftands near a frefh-water lake ; and has a very ftrong and fpacious caftle built in a quadrangular form, and furrounded with a deep moat. Saalfeld, a well-built middling town, in which a famous convent of Bemardines formerly flood. When the epifcopal fee of Pomcfania was abolifhed, the Oberland Confiftory was inftituted here in its ftead in the year 1587. The Erzprieficr, or Arch-Prefbyters of Saalfeld, Riefenburg, and Holla?id, have a feat in this Confiftory, from which an appeal lies to the Prnßan High Court of Judicature. In the year 1588, George Frederick founded the third P ruffian fchool in this town. Chrißburg, or Alt-Chrißburg, an old mean town, with an ancient caftle. Altfladt, a village with an elegant feat belonging to the Counts of WaUenrodt. Liebmuhl, a fmall town, with a caftle built in 1337, in which the Bifhop of Pomefania refided towards the clofe of the fixteenth century. Doli/ladt, a Prefecture which is near the Draujen-lzke on the other fide of the town of Holland ; and makes part of the Government of Preufchmwk. 10. The Government of Preusch-Holland. This DiftricT: contains twenty-one churches, which are under a particular Arch-Prefbyter. The moft remarkable places in this Government are as follows. Holland, a handfome town leated on an eminence near the river Weefie, with a ftrong fortrefs. It is laid to have been built by fome Hollanders of diftinction, who fled hither on account of the murder of Count FlorcntiusY. from whom it had the name of Holland. Its fituation renders it naturally ftrong ; belides, it is furrounded with a wall and towers. The ftreets are long and broad, and the houfes well-built. To this town belong two fuburbs, fome pleafant gardens, and feveral country feats ; and the inha- bitants have a free fiihery, and the liberty of going out in their boats on the Draufin-lake. St. Bartholomew's church is a large handfome ftruclure. The Calvinifts celebrate Divine Service in a lar°;e hall belonpintr to the caftle ; and without the town ftands St. George's church. Here is alio a good hofpital, and the prefent edifice was built in the year 1690. This town was formerly mortgaged to Baron Czehmen ; but the Margrave George Frederick redeemed it in 1576 for 30,000 guilders. It was conlumed by fire 55* PRUSSIA. [L. Lithuania. fire in the years 1543, 16 10, 1663 and 1695. Holland has undergone feveral viciffitudes in the frequent wars between the Poles and Swedes. In the year 1521 it was taken by the former. In 1722 falt-works were fet up, and in 1728 a magazine for corn and forage was erected in this town. The prefent caftle was begun by Duke Albert, and compleafed by George Frederick. It is furrounded by moats and walls, and has draw- bridges, and fine apartments which yield a noble profpecl. Muhlhaujen, a mean little town, which was built in 1365, and con- fumed by fire in 1455. Many ridiculous ftories are told of its inhabitants; but they feem to be borrowed from fabulous books and idle traditions. Schmitten, a remarkale caftle belonging to the Counts of Dokna. It has elegant apartments which are richly furnifhed, a fine library, and a hand- fome wardrobe. The water is conveyed hither by a curious aqueduct. Schlcdien is alfo a caftle belonging to the fame noble family. It is remarkable for its pleafant fituation, and elegant ornaments. In thefe parts are feveral feats belonging to Count Dohna, and other Noblemen, where no expence has been fpared to improve the beauties of Nature with the embellifhments of Art. Quittairien, a caftle and Lordfhip belonging to Count Donhof. The LITHUANIAN Department. r T s HIS divifion comprehends eighteen towns, fixty-two Amts or Diftricls, -*■ and one hundred and five parishes ; and the Hanpt-amts or Govern- ments in this department I fhall defcribe in the following order. I. The LITHUANIAN Governments. Little Lithuania is twenty-four German miles in length, and from eight to twelve in breadth. This country was anciently over-run with thickets and woods ; and in the year 17 10, it was almoft depopulated by the pef- tilence. In 1720, King Frederick William, at the expence of five millions of Rix-dollars, induced 20,000 Sivitzers, French Proteftants, Palatines, and Francojiians to fettlein this country; and in 1732, 350,000 dollars were alfo diftributed among a frefh colony of 12,500 Saltzburgers. By the fkill and induftry of thefe emigrants this defolate country has been -extremely well cultivated. The fuperfluous woods have been rooted up, the moraffes drained, and a great number of towns, villages, farm-houfes, and churches built ; fb that in few years the country has put on quite a new appearance, and now makes ample returns for the money which his Pruffian L.Lithuania.] PRUSSIA. 559 P ruffian Majefty laid out upon it. The richnefs of the paftures, the many thoufand Lafts of corn which are either laid up in the King's granaries, or exported ; the fine horned cattle, excellent horfes, and numerous flocks of Iheep, with the excellent butter, cheefe, &c. which this country affords, are inconteftible proofs of its uncommon fertility. It likewife abounds with wood for fuel, and has plenty of fifh and game. Several manufactures are alio efla- bliflied here ; particularly for coarfe and fine cloth, leather, &c. The an- cient inhabitants of this country have a peculiar language, into which the Bible, the Catcchifm and fome books of devotion have lately been tranflated. The Lithuanians are by no means lb fimple and ftupid as they are generally reprefented ; but they have their good and ill qualities like other nations. Among the colonifts, the Switzers are moftly employed in grafing and breeding cattle ; the French are very well verfed in trade, and fkilful in the cultivation of tobacco, which they have introduced into this country; and the Saltzburgers are remarkable for their fkill in agriculture. The Switzers, French, and Franconians are all Calvinifb ; fo that there are ten German and French Reformed parilhes, as they are called, in Little Lithua- nia. The reft are Lutherans, with very few Papifls among them. The Lithuanian Governments or Haupt-amts are, I. The Government of Memel. The foil is but indifferent, and the air fomefhing fharp in this Diftrict. It has nine churches which are under the jurifdiction of the Arch-Prefbyter of Memel. In this Govern- ment lies Memel, a trading town, fortrefs, and port feated on the bay called Curifcke-Haf. It was built in the year 1279, and fortified in 13 12; and in the year 1328, it was given up by the Governor of Livonia to the Great-Mailer of the Teutonic Order fettled in PruJJia. This town on one lide, has the Baltic, and on the other the Curijche-Haf ; befides thefe it is alfo watered by the river Dange. The harbour is deep, and has a very good entrance ; and, within thefe few years, has been improved with two moles, which are carried above fifty rods into the Ha for bay, and were railed at the expence of 1 1 ,ooo dollars. Memel lies under the guns of the fort, and is well inhabited : It confifts of above four hundred houfes. Befides the German town-church, here are a Lithuanian and a Calvinilt church. The Burghers, who are divided into thole of Altjladt or the Old Toivn and Frederickjladt, are employed in commerce, brewing, foap- boiling, agriculture, filliing, &c. Great quantities of flax, lin- feed, thread, and hemp are annually exported horn this town. In 1752, "feventy fhips arrived in this port, and fixty-nine failed from hence to other ports. Memel is fortified with three whole and two half baflicns, with other works, all in the modern way. It was formerly one of the Hanfe-toums ; and as fuch, its College of Juftice in 1254 admitted the Lübeck law. A royal magazine, a falt-faclory, and a poil-houfe of a confiderable revenue 5 are 6o PRUSSIA. [L. Lithuania. are eftabliihed in this town. The citadel confiils of four baftions which are pretty regular, with ravelines and half-moons. The buildings and apartments in this citadel were much improved by the Elector Frederick William and King Frederick I. The moil remarkable things in it are the two arfenals, the fuperb houfe of the Commandant, the garriibn-church, and the powder-im^rzine. In 1323, 1379, *4-57> l 54-0> and 1678 this town fuffered greatly by fire. To this Government alfo belong Rufs, a fmall Diftrict at the mouth of a river of the fame' name, in which there is the fineft falmon fifhery in thefe parts. Heidekrug, a fmall town of good bufinefs. Werden, a large church-villaee, where a market is held, on the river " fche. 2. The Government of Tilsit, or Tilse, contains eleven churches which are under the direäion of the Arch-Prefbyter of Ti/Jit. In this Diftrict lies Til/if, a city of confiderable note, which, next to Königsberg, is the largeft and moft opulent town in Prnßia, and carries on the greater! trade. It obtained the privileges of a city in 1552; though the caitle is faid to have been ftanding io early as the year 1289. The river Memel, which runs along the north fide of the town, opens to it a very advantageous trade with Königsberg in corn, lin-feed, butter and other provifions. Tilfit, properly fo called, confifts of two long ftreets of a proportionate breadth, which are called the German-ßreet and the High-ßreet, contiguous to which is the fuburbs called the Liberty. The number of houfes in this city is about fix hundred, and the inhabitants amount to 7000 fouls. The ecclefiaftical buildings are an Evangelical or Lutheran German church, a Lithuanian church and a Calvinift or Reformed church. Without the town itands a Lutheran chapel, and about an Engli/Ji mile from it a Roman catholic chapel. Near the German church is the royal provincial fchool. Here is an hofpital where ninety indigent perfons have a comfortable fubfiftence ; and in the peft -houfe the fick and lame, as well as thofe who are infected with the plague, are carefully pro- vided for. Here is alfo a Pauperhaus, as it is called, in which ten poor boys are maintained, and a charitable foundation for widows. A falt-factory is likewife dfablifhed in this town. The flat country about Ttilßt which is about four German miles in length, and as many in breadth is one of the moft fertile fpots in the whole kingdom. The inhabitants of it breed great numbers of horned cattle, and furnifh not only Prußa, but likewife other provinces with ex- cellent butter and cheefe ; and the fifheries in this place are alfo confiderable. The horfes are large and ftrong, but clumfey. Barley is almofl the only grain fown in thefe parts ; which afford little or no wood. The marfh- land is, in fpring, expofed to inundations by the overflowing of the rivers, which often do great damages. In this level near the old Gilge is Kaukenen a royal manor and church-village with a market. Ran- L. Lithuania.] PRUSSIA. 5 6i Rautenburg, a confidcrable and extenfivc cftate, which, at prcfent, be- longs to the KaifirKng family ; and Schnecken, a hunting feat, which flands in the midft of a large forcft frequented by great numbers of elks, and near the river Schnecken ; arc both in this Government. 3. The Government of Ragnit, which is inhabited chiefly by Salz- burg colonics, who carry on a great trade in flax and lin-feed. This Dis- trict includes nine churches which are under the Arch-Presbyter of Ragnit. The moft remarkable places in this Government are, ' Ragnit, a fmall town on the river Mwnmel or Mcmel, which is furrounded with pallifadoes, and was endowed with the privileges of a town in 1722. Its caftle is one of the moft ancient in the country, and was famous even in the times of Paganifm: It was rebuilt in the year 1255 with additional works by the Knights of the Teutonic Order ; but being laid in afhes bv the Pagans, it was rebuilt a fecond time in 1 3 $j, and called Land/huth ; but afterwards it had the name of Ragnit, which it (till retains, from the river Which runs clofe by it. In this caftle is a very large royal magazine for provifions, &:. and the profpeel from that part of it which is called Königs- berg is hardly to be equalled. Abßeinen a DiftricT: and farm-houfe on the other fide of the Memel. It is a mountainous but very pleafant country, and from its extraordinary fer- tility in corn and pafturage is called the ' Larder of Lithuania! Here are very extraordinary flocks of fbeep, a great plenty of all kind of game, and excellent horfes. PilkaV.cn, which was formerly a village, but in 1724 it became a town, and continues in a flourifhing condition. Schirwind, a mean town, which, before the year 1725, was only a poor village. 4. The Government of Insterburg is the largeft Haupt-amt in Prußa ; for it contains thirty Kammer-amts or fmall Diftnc~b, forty-three pari flies, five towns, five caftles, and above eight hundred villages large and fmall. It alio includes an area of above 20-,oco Hides of land. The churches in this Government, are fubject to the Arch-Prefbyter of Inßerburg ; ten country churches excepted, which in J726 were affigned to the newly erected Prefbytery of Staalupben. In this Government are the following remarkable places. Inßerburg, a town of fbme note, feared on the Angcrap, near its conflux with the Inßer where it affumes the name of Pregel, a river famous for its com- merce. This town was built in 1572, and furrounded with paflifadbes in 1727 : It contains about three hundred and fifty houies and 3000 inhabitant ;. Befides the Lutheran churches, here is alio a place ofworfhip for the Calvinifts. Inßer- burg carries on a confiderable trade in corn and beer ; and the latter is famous both for its wholfomnefs and ftrength. Here is alfo a Court of Juftice. The Vol. I. 4 C caftle 5 6 2 PRUSSIA. [Oletzko. caftle was built in the middle of the fourteenth century, and much im- proved by King Frederick William : It has, at prefent a granary and fait- factory. In the year 1724, a Court of Judicature for the adminiftration of juftice in the Lithuanian Governments or Haupt-amts was erected here. In 1655, Maria Eleanora, Dowager ofGußavus Adolpbus, died in this town. Gcorgcnburg, a caftle, with a Diftricl and church- village. Gumbinnen, a regular town built, fince the year 1725, in a very pleafant and fertile country on the river Piß. It confifts of about two hundred houfes ; and the number of its inhabitants amounts to 3000. The ancient Deputation-Chamber and the prefent War and Dcmefne-Chambers have been removed to this place. The public buildings in this town are the Confe- rence-houfe, the town-houfe, and the magazine, which was built in 1742 at the expence of 11,000 dollars; the Calvinift church in the New-town, the Lutheran church in the Old-town ; and the Saltzburg alms-houfe, which has a particular chaplain. Here is a good cloth-manufacture. Darkehmen, a mean town, which obtained its privileges in the year 1725, and in 1732 was rendered more populous by a colony of Saltzburgers who fettled there. Here is a flourifhing cloth and woollen manufacture ; alfo tobacco and gunpowder are prepared in this town. Goldapp, a place of fome trade, but mean and dirty : it was built by the Margrave Albert in the year 1 564, and is a frontier town on the borders of Poland. Kiauten, a fmall Diftrict in a hilly country, where a flatting mill, a fmelting furnace, and a paper mill are fet up. Stallnpehenen, a newly built town, to which a charter was granted in the year 1722. The inhabitants trade conliderably in cattle; and a good fair is held here. The late inftitution of an Arch-Prefbytery in this town has been mentioned above. Frefh water and wood for fuel are very fcarce here. II. The POLISH Governments. Thefe Haupt-amts are as follows. 1. Hp HE Government of Oletzko, which contains the amis or fmall -*■ Diftricts of Stradaunen, Polommen, and Czichen. The eleven churches belonging to this Government are fubject to the vifitation of the Arch- Prefbyter of Lik ; and the moft remarkable places in it are, Oletzko, a caftle, the infide of which was much embelliihed in the year 1640. The town of Marggrabowa, which (lands near this caftle, is both regular and large. It derives its name from the founder, Margave Albert, who Rhein.] PRUSSIA. who built it in memory of the interview he had here with Sigißmind Augitflus King of Poland ; and the latter, in 1560, built a town which be called Augufloioa on the Polißo frontiers, about eight German miles diftant from Marggrabowa. The market place is the largeft area in all the town i in PruJJia, and on it ftands the church quite detached from any other building. In the neighbourhood of Marggrabowa the Sivedißj and electoral troops defeated the Tartars in 1656, and releafed the Prince of Radzivil, who had been taken prifoner by them. • Kalinowen, a market-village on the frontiers of Poland. Widminnen, a large church-village confuting of two congregations. 2. The Government of Lotzen. The churches in this Diftrict are fub- ordinate to the Arch-Prefbyter of Angerburg ; and the moft remarkable places in it are, Lotzen, a fmall town, with a caftle built in 1285. It is fituated in a well watered delightful country which' yields plenty of all forts of game, and ftands on a canal which joins the Leventin and Angerburg lakes. Some ancient Roman coins have been found near this town. Grofi-Sturlack, a feat belonging to Baron Shcnk of Tautenburg. 3. The Government of Lik in Old Sudavia derives its name from the river Lik. In this Diftri£t are five churches, which together with the eleven churches in the Government of Oletzko are under the jurifdiction of the Arch-Prefbyter of Lik. Lik, in Latin Licca, a trading town feated on the Satrind-hke. Here is nothing worthy of notice but the church, the provincial fchool, which was founded in 1588 and was formerly in a very flourishing condition, the caftle, and the Arch-Prefbyter 's manfion houfe. The caftle belonging to Lik, which was built in 1272, ftands very pleafantly on an ifland. This country fuf- fered extremely by the inhuman ravages of the Tartars in 1656; till at laft the famous battle of Warfaw drove thofe barbarians from the frontiers". In 1662 it was declared a town, and received its privileges. The adjacent country abounds with fifli and other provilions, and yields plenty of wood. Goldapy a fmall, but well built town. OJlrokolln, a church-village, to which alio the village of Proftken belongs. In the latter a pillar was erected in the year 1545 as a boundary on the fide of Great Lithuania, with a Latin infeription in further confirmation of the treaty of peace concluded with Poland in 1525. The villages of Kußnowen and TaluJJ'en, which are inhabited moftly by Arians, who behave in a veiy quiet inoffenfive manner, and perform their .devotions in private houfes. 4. The Government of Rhein, which lies in Sudavia, and was formerly well peopled. This Diftric~t contains feven churches, four of which are under the Arch-Prefbyter of Raßenburg, and the other three belong to Johannesburg. 4C 2 Rhein, 564 PRUSSIA. [Johannefburg. Rhein, a fmall town on the Spirding-hke, but its caftle which was built about the middle of the fourteenth century, is fpacious and ftrong, and an in- ferior jurifdidcion belongs to it. Arts, a fmall town with a little Diftricl ; King Frederick William granted it the privileges of a town, and it has continued to flourifh ever fince. Eichmedin, a feat belonging to Baron Hoverbeck. Nicolayken lies near the Spir -ding-Sea which is the largefl lake in the country. It is but fmall, and was declared a town in the year 1722. 5. The Government of Johannesburg contains five churches, which have their own Arch-Prefbyter, who alfo has jurifdiction over three churches in the Haupt-amt of Rhein. The mod remarkable places in this Government are, Johannesburg, a fmall, but handfome town feated on a plain near the Spirding-lzke, in which are four iilands, and plenty of nih. Here is a cäftle which was once fortified ; and an Arch-Prefbyter refides in this town. In 1698, the Elector Frederick had an interview of four days with Augiiflus II. then newly eledled King of Poland, at "Johannesburg. A large granary, and a magazine for forage were erected here in 1728. Biala a fmall town which received its privileges in 1722. Note. Befides the Flant-aempter or Governments which we have been de- fcribing, his F ruffian Majefty is alfo poffeffed of the following Lordfhips in the Polijh territories. 1. Tauroggen, which is alargeDiftric~l near the river Juhr in Samogiim, and about three German miles from Stüßt. It confifts of above three hundred hides of land, and has an excellent breed of horfes : It alfo abounds with fifli, and yields plenty of game. Tauroggen devolved to the houfe of Bran- denburg., in 1691, on the demife of the Princefs of Radzivil. The F ruffian fteward here is accountable to the Chamber of Revenues in Lithuania. 2. Serrey in the Great Dutchy of Lithuania and the palatinate of Trocko, It lies not far from Kauen, and confifts of near fix hundred hides of land, on which are twenty-two villages, three manors, and twenty lakes and ponds. This lordfhip devolved to the houfe of Brandenburg by the marriage of the Princefs Ludovica Carolina of Radzivil with Lewis Margrave of Brandenbwg. In 1703, and 1734, it fuffered feveral calamities. In the little town on this territory the Calvinifts and Papifts have each a church, and the Jews a Synagogue. POLAND, ».=■•-« I I WlU POLAND, LITHUANIA, POLISH PRUSSIA. AND COURLAND [ 5*7 ] INTRODUCTION TO THE K I N G D O M o f POLAND. §. i. /"~\MITTING the mofl ancient maps of the kingdom of Poland, V_-/ I fhall only take notice of the beft among the modern, which are the following, viz. Dahlberg's map in Puff'endorf's Res Ge/he Caroli Guflavi ; that of VaJJbur ; Homamis map, drawn ad mentem Starolvolfcii, in the year 1739; Allard's and De L'ljles maps; and that delineated by M. Mayer in 1750, entitled Mappa Geographica regni Polonice, ex novißmis quotquot funt mappis fpecialibus compo/ita, et ad leges ßereographico' projection/ s revocatce, Printed by Hamanns heirs. The laft certainly exceeds all the preceding maps in accuracy, &c. however, the names of a great number of places are omitted in it. We are alfo in expectation of a complete col- lection of maps reprefenting the particular provinces of Poland, or a Polißj Atlas, which is to be published in that country. Mayer has alfo given us a beautiful map of the Great Dutchy of Lithuania from a draught by Peter Nieprecki, a Jefuit, which was publifhedin 1749 by Homanris heirs. §.2. The word Pole, in the Polijh language, fignifies a flat, level coun- try ; but that the kingdom and the whole nation derive their name from that origin, cannot be affirmed with any certainty. This large kingdom from Eaft to Weft is tv/o hundred German or geographical miles in length, and one hundred and forty in breadth. Towards the North it borders on Prußa, Courland, Livonia, and Riiffia, and towards the Eaft on Ruffia and Little Tartary ; to the South it is bounded by Mol- davia, Tranfylvania and Hungary, and to the Weft by Sile/ia, Brandenburg, and Pomera?iia. §. 3. The air is fomething cold, but falubrious; and the country is for the moft part level, and has but few hills. On the Carpathian * mountains, * Thefe are called the Krapack mountains in the maps, and I know not with what pro- priety they are called Carpathian mountains j for Carpatbus is an ifland in the Mediterranean, now called Scarpanto. which 5 68 INTRODUCTION TO which feparate Poland from Hungary, the air is very cold ; for it fnows there frequently in the midft of fummer, and in fome parts of them the fnow never melts. The Befciatian mountains are a continuation of the Carpathian chain of hills. The foil of this country is exceeding fertile, and yields plenty of grain, of which there cannot be a greater proof than that near 4000 veffels and floats, mofl of which are laden with corn, annually pafs down the Vifiida to Dantzick. In Podolia, Volhynia, the Ukraine, and the province of Riißia corn grows in vaft plenty, and with little culture or manure. In Great and Little Poland agriculture requires more attention and labour ; but the harvefts make ample amends for the pains of the induftrious peafant. The foil of Lithuania is as fruitful as that of Podolia ; and Samogitia produces abundance of grain, befides hemp and fläx. Poliß Prußa is alfo a very fertile country. Here are likewife excellent paftures ; and in Podolia the grafs grows to fuch a height, that fometimes a perlbn cannot fee the horns of the cattle when they are grafing in the meadows. The following is a remarkable inftance of the fertility of the foil, and the plenty of all kinds of provifions in this country ; namely, that from the year 1701 to 17 18, during which time there were feveral armies in Poland, there was not the leaft fcarcity of bread. Travellers can feldom meet with any thing to eat in the country inns in Poland; but are obliged to buy provifions in the towns and carry them with their baggage. This inconveniency, however, is owing to a want of honefty in the natives when they travel ; for the inn-keepers never make any extraordinary provifion, becaufe they find by experience, that their guefts are feldom in the mind to make any returns for their entertainment. Peat, oker of all kinds, chalk, Belemnites, agate, chalcedony, cornelians, onyxes, opals, jafper, fine rock cryftal, amethyfts, granite, topazes, fap- phires, and even rubies and diamonds are found in Poland. This country likewife affords .Marienglas or Mufcovy glafs, talc ; alum, falt-petre, amber, pit-coal, and an inexhauftible quantity of fait which is hewn out of the rock in large block?, and falt-fprings ; alio fpar, quickiilver, Lapis ca'a- mismris, iron, lead, a fmall quantity of tin, gold and fiiver ; but there are no mines of the two laft metals- wrought in Poland. The Poliß) Manna is produced by an herb that grows in the meadows and fenny grounds; and it is gathered, in great quantities, from the twentieth of June to the end of July. The Poliih A'tvv/^-berries are always gathered in May, before they are quite ripe; for in the month of July they fwarm with inteefs, which leave a kind of protuberances behind them; lb that the berries are rendered unfit either for dying or medicine. Great quantities of thefc berries grow in the Ukraine ^nd in the neighbour- hood of JVarfa-w and Q'äefiw ; and were formerly exported to Genoa and Florence. Here are feveral woods of oak, beech, pine, and fir-trees. 2 Poland POLAND. 569 Poland alfo yields abundance of honey and wax ; and a great quantity of mead is made of the former, which liquor derive rom the Pol ißj word Mied, which fignifies honey. Horned cattle are bred in this country in - fach numbers., that 8 o, 6r 90,000 oxen are driven every year out of Poland. The Poliß horfes arc very ftrong, fwift, and beautiful. Of thefe there are great numbers in th ■ country, and likewife of wild beafts ; as the elk, called in the Poliß: ia; 1 Los, or a wild ram with one horn; the Bijon* called Zubr by the Voles; the hyena, in the Poliß} language called Rofomak; the Subak, which rc- femhles a wild goat ; and laftly, the Aurrachs are very common in Poland. There are feveral lakes in Great Poland, fome of which abound with fifh. The moft remarkable among thefe is the Gopler-hke in the Woy~ •wodß.np or Palatinate of Brezefc in Cujavia, which is five German muc- in length, and half a mile in breadth. In the other provinces are feveral large fifh ponds. As for the Poliß} rivers, the eight following are the moil remarkable. 1 . The Dima or Dzivtna, in Latin Duna and in Polifh Kubo, has its fource in Rußa, and after a long courfe through Lithuania empties itfelf into the Baltic. 2. The Memel, called in Latin Chronus, and in Polifh Niemen, riles in the Palatinate of Novogrodeck, and runs through Lithuania and Prttßa into the bay called Curifche-Haf. 3. The Weichßel, called in Latin Vißula, and in Polifh Wißa, i. e. < water 1 that runs down a declivity,' rifes in Hungary among the Carpathian mountains, runs through Poland ; and, after receiving feveral other firearm; in this kingdom, and in Prußa, it partly difcharges itfelf into the Baltic near Dantzick, and by two other channels called the Nogat and the Old Vijlula, runs into the bay of ' Frifche-Haf. The Vißala is, indeed, very broad ■> but, at the fame time, of no great depth. 4. The Wart a has its fource in the Palatinate of Cracow, and runs into the Oder a little above Cuflrin. 5. The Niefier or Dnießer, in Latin Dana/Iris, is the Tyras or Tyres of the Ancients. It rifes in a lake among the Carpathian mountains, and, dividing Poland from Moldavia in its courfe, falls into the Pontus Euxinus or Black Sea. 6. The Bog, which has its fource in Podolia, and runs into the Dnieper. 7. The Nieper or Dnieper, in Latin Danapris or Boryßhenes, rifes in the mountains of Budin in Rußa, and after a courfe of forty days journey, or two hundred German miles, difcharges itfelf into the Black-Sea. 8. The Przypiecz, in Latin Pripctius, has its fource in the Palatinate of Chelm in Red Rußa, and runs into the Dnieper. §. 4. The Poles, when confidered as members of the community, arc either Nobles ; Citizens, in which clafs merchants, artifts, and mechanics are included j or Peafants, who are mofUy vaffals to the Nobles. * The Bifint or Bifin is an animal refembling a wild 'bull, o: buffalo. Vol.I. 4 D The 570 INTRODUCTION TO The Polifh towns are, for the mod part, built with wood ; and the villages con lift of mean cottages, or huts. The Nobles of Poland have, from time immemorial, refided in the country. Every Nobleman lives in his own village, feat, or caftle; manages his eftate by his vaffals or hired fervants ; and maintains himfelf and v/hole family by agriculture, breeding of bees, grazing, and hunting. Some of the Nobility alfo fpend part of their time in the cities or towns. A Nobleman in the Polijh language is called Szlakcic *, and the dignity is termed Shlaketjlwo. There are among the Polißi Nobility certain Genta or tribes; and thefe again are divided into diftindt families : This diftinftion, however, is not owing to the different places or provinces where they live ; but they are ranked according to the names and arms they bear. Though Poland has its Princes, Counts, and Barons ; yet the whole nobleffe are naturally on a level, excepting the difference arifing from the pofts fome of them enjoy. Hence all thofe who are of noble birth call one another brothers. However, Noblemen whofe circumftances are low fubmit to enter into the fervice of the richer fort, efpecially if the latter are in any eminent poll:, either for a comfortable fubfiftence, or to learn politenefs and addrefs, and, perhaps, to raije their fortunes ; and this is accounted no difgrace. The Polijh Nobility enjoy a great many confiderable privileges ; and, indeed, the fo much boafted Poliflj Liberty is properly limited to the Nobles only : for they have the power of life and death over their vaffals, who, on that account, groan under an opprefhve vaffalage, or rather flavery. Every Nobleman is abfolute Lord of his eftates ; fo that the King can require no fubfidy from him ; nor is he obliged to maintain or find quarter for any foldiers. If a foreigner dies on a Nobleman's eftate in Poland without leaving any heirs, his effe&s fall to the Lord of the manor as an efcheat. But on the demife of a Nobleman without heirs, his eftate does not efcheat to the King, whilft there are any perfons living who are related in the eighth degree to the deceafed ; and if a Nobleman dies without heirs, or any fuch relations, the King cannot appropriate his eftate to himfelf, but is obliged to beftow it on fome other Nobleman of merit. The houfe of a Nobleman is a fecure afylum for perfons who have committed any crime ; for none muft prefume to take them from thence by force. The Judges in the towns dare not caufe a Nobleman's vaffal to be arrefted, or his effects to be feized. Noblemen and their vaffals pay no toll or duty for the tattle, corn, &c. which they fend out of the kingdom for fale : They have alio the liberty of working any mines or fait- works on their own eftates. No magiftrate, nor even the King himfelf, can caufe a Nobleman to be arrefted, without fignifying the crime he is guilty of, and a previous citation ; nnleis he be a robber and have been three times impeached by his affociates ; * The German way of writing Poliflj words make them ftill more difficult to be pronounced ; I have therefore kept as aear the Englijh orthography as I could. or POLAND- or be furprized in any other crime ipfo faclo ; or, laftly, when he cannot, or will not put in bail. A Nobleman is fubjecl to none but the; King : However, he is not obliged to appear before his Majefty out of the ki dorn, when cited on any caufe, unlefs it relate to the Royal treafuryj btm mud be judged in Poland. All eccleliaftical dignities and civil polls in this kingdom are to be held only by the Nobility. None but Ncblemen are quali- fied to be proprietors of eftates, except the Burghers of the cities of Thorn, Cracow, Vilna, Lemberg, and Lublin, who have the privilege of purchalir..» lands. Any Nobleman may purchafe a houle, and live in a city or town : but he muft then fubmit to ferve municipal offices ; and if he is concerned in trade or commerce, he forfeits the privileges of a Noble Pole. Every Nc- bleman has a vote in the election of a King ; and is even qualified to wear the crown, if he be raifed to it by the free choice of the reft of the Nobility. The Poliflj Nobility has alio fome exclufive advantages in pur- chafing fait. Thefe and other important privileges the Nobles of Poland enjoy partly by the indulgence of their Kings, and partly by ancient cuftom or prefcription. A perfon defcended from noble anceftors is much more honoured than one that is newly enobled. All civil caufes relating to the Nobility are tried in the Provincial Courts of Judicature -, but if a Nobleman commence a fuit with the farmers of the royal demefnes, a Commifiorial-Court is appointed to terminate the difpute. The Polißi Burghers alfo enjoy fome valuable privileges. §. 5. The Polijh language is derived from the old Sclavonic ; however, it differs extremely from all the other languages which come from the fame fource. The High-Dutch language is very much in vogue in Poland; and, in- deed, the Germans have done the Poles fome very confiderable fervices ; for they firft introduced into Poland a tafte for learning, opened the chan- nels of commerce, and built feveral towns, which they alfo raifed to a flouriihing condition. Ca/imir the Great was very fenlible of the great advantages which Poland might reap from German colonies. Accordingly that Prince invited them to fettle in his kingdom by the greateft encourage- ments; for he granted them the moft improvable fpots in Poland, and even permitted them to be governed by their own laws. The Latin tongue is alfo commonly fpoken in Pola/ul even by the lower clafs of people ; but without any regard to accent, quantity, or purity of language *. §.6. From die time of King Sigif/uund I. to the reign of Wladißam IV. was the interval when Arts and Sciences rlourilhed moil in Poland. Since that /Era the Polijh Mules feem to have drooped and languifhed : How- ever, they now begin to revive again. For, at prefent, the purity and The fame may be faid of Germany, the following fehtence, as I have accented it, being generally fathered upon the inhabitants of that country : bhiGerrmm non cüramw. juatUita- icm Sylläbarum. 4 D 2 . elegance 571 57 2 INTRODUCTION TO elegance of the PoIiß> and Latin languages are ftudied, the New Philo- ibphy is introduced, the Mathematics are taught, and Natural Philofophy tfourifhes, in Poland. The Learned in this country alfo apply themfelves ; a the ftudy of the Hiftory of Poland, which they cultivate and improve ; and endeavour to make the good Writers of former ages better known, and lifeful to the prefent; and for this end, the valuable library of Count Zalußi at Warfaiv opens an ineftimable treafure of ancient Authors. The Greek Ian guage alfo begins to be ftudied in Poland ; and literary correfpondences are carried on with learned foreigners. It is true, the preis has not pro- duced fo many books in Poland as in other countries ; but this may be im- puted, in a great meafure, to a want of able publifhers, liberal patrons of learning, and well regulated printing-houfes. §. 7. There are no manufactures in Poland; but all the commodities of the country are exported unwrought out of the kingdom. Religious zeal, or rather bigotry, is of infinite detriment to the trade and commerce of Poland, which, notwithftanding all its natural advantages, is daily finking deeper and deeper into poverty ; fo that the commerce of Poland feems on the brink of ruin. The Poles, indeed, export grain of all kinds, flax, hemp, lin-feed, hops, honey, wax, tallow, hides, leather drefted in the Ruffian manner, pitch, pot-afh, mafts, deal-boards, fhip and houfe timber, horned cattle, horfes and other home commodities; but thefe are greatly over-balanced by the imports, namely, wine (that of Hungary alone car- rying fome millions annually out of the kingdom,) fpices, cloths, rich filk fluffs, fine linen, pearls, precious ftones, plate, copper, brafs, fteel, furrs, &c. §.8. As for the religion profefled in this country, it was decreed by the Conftitutions of the Pacification Diet held in the year 1736, ' That no ' perfon fhould be elected King of Poland and Great Duke of Lithuania, ' without firft making a folemn profeffion of the orthodox Rowan-CathoYic ' religion ; and that the Queen muft either have been brought up in that ' communion, or publicly declare herfelf a member of it.' Hence it appears that the Popifh religion is looked upon as the eftabliftied, and orthodox religion in this country. The Diffidcntes, i. e. the Lutherans, Calvinißs, and Greeks, by the treaties concluded with the ancient Confederations, and particularly the Conftitution of the year 17 17, are promifed fecurity as to their effects, and an equality with the other fubjecls as to their perfons. Some few of the Greek pro- feffion have conformed to the Romiß) church, and are called Unites ; but thofe Greeks who perfift in their feparation, are called Dißnites. The Archbifhopof Polocko, and four other Bifhops, are reckoned among the former. Arians, by which name the Socinians are called here, Quakers, Mennonites, and Anabaptifts, are not tolerated in Poland. The Proteftants, by virtue of the above-mentioned Conftitutions, follicited for the free exercife of their religion on the foot of the treaty of Oliva ; and POLAND. and for this end, feveral other Powers interefled themfelves in their behalf. This procured them many fair promifes ; which, however, have not been fulfilled. On the contrary, a great number of their churches have adualiy been taken from them, or demolished ; and fuch open violations of the law's of juStice and equity are of late become more frequent ; fo that the ProteSlants have now only twenty- two churches in the cities and towns, and iixtv- five in the villages o£ Poland. The Greeks are alfo no lei's opprefTed in this Kingdom than the Protectants. The Jews are indulged with great privileges, and are verv numerous in Poland; hence this country is fliled the ' Paradife of the Jews.' In the Second volume of the Callenbergifchen Nachrichten von der fortwährenden Betmthung um das Heil des JtüJiJchen Folks, printed in the year 1752, is inferted a letter (p. 106, &c.) written by an old Polijh General who was a native of Gcmnuiy ; by which it appears, that there are at leaSt above two millions of Jews only in the villages of Poland : and here it muft be obferved that there are at lcaft one, two, or three jewifli families in every village, exclufive of the great numbers of Jews in the towns and inns. Their annual capitation or poll-tax amounts to 220,000 Polißo guilders in the kingdom of Poland, and 120,000 in Lithuania, which makes, in the whole, the fum of 56,666 rix-dollars ; and this over and above the general imports and taxe^. It muft be further obferved with regard to the fuperiority of the Popifh religion here, that the King is fliled Orthodoxies, as a title of honour ; that St. Florian and St. Adalbert are worshipped as the Patron Saints of Poland ; that the number of monasteries in this kingdom amounts to five hundred and feventy-fix, and of nunneries to one hundred and Seventeen, befides two hun- dred and fortv-fix Seminaries or colleges, and thirtv-one abbeys ; and laftlv, that the clergy are poiTefTed of two thirds of the lands and revenues of the kingdom. §. 9. All the Writers, who have treated of the ancient hiStory of Poland, are of opinion, that the prefent inhabitants were not the original poffeSlbrs of this country ; but emigrated hither as colonies from other parts. It is alfo the general opinion, that they came from Sarmatia, and fettled on the banks of the Vißula ': But Sarmatia was a very extenfive country, and inhabited bv various nations ; from what part of it, therefore, did the Poles remove to this country? This may be Shewn by attending to the name by which, the Poles call themfelves in their own language, viz. Polacy. It is well known, that among other nations in Sarmatia were a people called Lazi, of whom Procopius and Agathias have given an accurate defcription ; and that they ■ dwelt in the ancient Colchis near the Pontus Euximcs or Black-fca. From thefe, the learned M. Lengnich fuppofes the Poles to be defcended ; and that from hence they are called Polacy, i. e. the pofterity or descendants of the Lazi. It further appears that the name of the Lazi was corrupted into that of Lech ; hence it is pretended, that the Poles marched into foreign countries under the conduct of an imaginary Prince of that name. Thefe 573 574 INTRODUCTION TO Thefe Lazi , who were united with their neighbours the Zechi, and per- haps alfo mingled with the other Sarmatians, eroded the rivers Don, Nieper, Nie/ier, and the Danube, into Pannonia ; and extending them felves farther in their progrefs, die Zcchi at laft fixed their habitations near jhe Elbe, where Bohemia now lies, and the Lazi near the river JVarta, in the country now called Great Poland. This appears to have happened a little before the 550th year of the Chriftian /Era. The Lazi, Zechi, and othei Sarmatians were in time lb intermixed together, that even their names were no longer heard of; and they were promifcuoufly called Slav! ans or Sclavonians, which name was firft uied in the fixth century. After this the Slavian nations were diftinguifhed from each other; and a particular name was given to each of them. Among thefe were the Licicavic Slaviäns, who are firft mentioned by Witichind of Corvey, an hiflorian of the tenth century ; and by this name, in all probability, he means the Lazi. Their King Mifia is the Mießo or Meßa of the Poles, who by the modern his- torians is called Mieciflaus, and was the firft of the name that reigned over this nation. This is the account which M. Lengnich gives of the origin of the Poles ; and a fuller detail of it is to be found in his difTertation at the end of the Poliß Hiftory. All the tradition about Lech, the pretended Founder of the Poliß king- dom and nation, and of his fucceffbrs down to Piaß, is obfeure, and entirely fabulous. Piaß, who, about the year of Chrift 840 is faid to have been raifed from a peafant to be a Sovereign Prince, is remarkable as to thefe particulars; namely, that his family flourilhed for feveral ages after in Poland and Silefia-, and that to this day all die Kings and even canditates for the crown, who are natives of Poland, are from him called Piafies. Miecißaus I. the fourth from Piaß, and great grandfon to that Prince, afcended the throne in the year 964. He became a convert to the Chriltian religion, and prevailed on his fubjects to follow his example. Boleßaus I. His lbn and fucceflbr, aflumed the title of King ; which dignity was continued by his fucceflbr Miecißaus II. Caßmir I. and Boleßaus II. But the regal title ceafed at the death of the laft mentioned Prince, and was not revived till the clofe of the thirteenth century, in the perfon of Premi/laus. Boleßaus III. a moft warlike Prince, divided his dominions among his four fons in 1 138, to the prejudice of the fifth. This partition gave rife to many difputes and open quarrels. Before this, the above-mentioned Premis- Iaus, Prince of Great Poland, had reaflumed the title of King in 1295. Uladißaus furnamed the Little made himfelf King of all Poland in the year 1309 ; and from that time it has been fubjecT: to one Sovereign. Uladßaus's only fon, Caßmir the Great, laid claim to Red Rußa, and made it a province of Poland; conferred great privileges on the Jews; and was. the laft Prince of the Piaßian-XmQ. To this excellent Prince Poland POLAND. Poland owes its Laws, Courts of Juftice, and Polity -, and llkewife moft of its towns, caftles, and other ufeful edifices. After this Prince, Lewis, King of Hungary, was alfo crowned Kino of Poland ; and on his demife, Hedwig, his fecond wife, was crowned Queen in the year 1384. Jagello, Great Duke of 'Lithuania, emhraccd Chriftianity in 1386, and at his haptifm had the name of Uladißaus. He married 'the Queen, (hared the Throne with her, and was the founder of a new royal family, which was called the Jagclloulan-Yine. This Prince fat on the Throne of Poland till the year 1572, and added the Great Dutchy of Lithuania to the Pollßj dominions. He alfo reduced Samogltla, and in 14 10, defeated the Knights of the Teutonic Order in the memorable battle of Tannen berg. yagello's fecond fon, Cafimlr III. took that part of Pruffia, which is, at prefent, called Polljh Pruffia, under his protection ; and obliged the Knights of the Teutonic Order to hold the other part as a fief of Poland. In the reign of Slgifmund I. Cajlmlr's youngeft fon, the Margrave Albert Grand-Mafter of the Teutonic Order was made Duke of Pruffia in the year 1 52 5 j which, however, he held as a valTal of the King and kingdom of Poland. Slgifmund Augußus fon to Slgifmund I. obliged the new Duke of Cour- land, Gotthard Ketlem to become his vaflalj and, in the year 1569, com- pleuted the Union of the Great Dutchy of Lithuania with the kingdom of Poland. Livonia gave itfelf up to the Poles -, Volhynia, Podolla, Polachla and Klovla, were alfo annexed to the Pollßj dominions in the fame reign ; and the male line of the Jagcllonlan family became extinct at his death, which happened in 1572. After this, the kingdom of Poland was governed by Kings of different families. Henry Duke of Anjou, fon of Henry II. of France, obtained the crown under certain reftrictions in the year 1573 ; and fome laws were instituted, which were to ferve as fundamental rules of Government to the King and his fuccelTors. This Prince, after a reign of two years, withdrew clandeftinely out of Poland into France. Upon this, the Throne was declared vacant in the year 1575, and the Crown beltowed on Stephen Bathor'i, Prince of Tranfyhania. This monarch, in the year 1578, inftituted the two great Tribunals or Courts of Judica- ture at Peterkau and Lublin ; and had his life been prolonged, would cer- tainly have greatly augmented the power, reputation, and profperity of the kingdom ; but this wife Prince was fnatched away in the flower of his age. Slgifmund III. a Swedi/h Prince, the fon of Catharine, filier to Slgifmund Augußus King of Poland, loft the Great Dutchy of Livonia, of which he was difpofled by Gußavus Adolphns, King of Sweden. Uladißaus IV. Slgifmund the third's fon, reftored tranquility to the king- dom ; and his wife Government deferved the higheft praife. This Prince 4 intended 575 576 INTRODUCTION TO intended to inflitute a new Order of knighthood under the title of tlir ' Knights of the Immaculate Virgin ;' but this project was never carried into execution. He alfo fet up poft-houfes throughout the kingdom, for the conveyance of letters, in the year 1647. This Monarch's death wa:; followed by a tumultuous Interregnum, the calamities of which were greatly heightened by the incurfions and ravages of the revolted Cofaks. In the year 1649, John Cqfimir, brother to UIadißauslV< was elected King. This Prince was unfuccefsful in his war againft Sweden., and by the peace of Oliva, concluded in 1660, was obliged to cede Livonia to that Crown. In 1 668 he refigned the Government out of dilgufr, and retired into France. John Caßmir was the laft Prince of the female branch of the Jagellouian-Yme in Poland; and the Pope honoured him with the title of Crthodoxus, or ' True believer.' Cafimir was fucceeded by Michael Thomas JVijhio-iviecki, a nobleman of great learning and parts ; but without any poft of honour or eftate. On the death oiWifniowiecki, which happened in the year 1674, the regal dignity was conferred on the heroic Prince "John III. furnamed Sobiejki, the High Marfhal and General in chief to the Crown, who, by a iignal victory gained over the Turks at Chozim, paved his way to the Throne, and gieatly contributed to raife the fiege of Vienna. On the demife of King John III. which fell out in 1696, AuguflusW. Elector of Saxony, was chofe King of Poland, who by the treaty of Carlo- Prujia. None but Rotna?i-czx\\oX\c$ dare appear at the Election. The King Elect is obliged either perfonally, or by his ambaflador or proxy, to fwear to the obfervance of the Patta Co?iventa, which are drawn up in the Polifi language, and adminiftered by the States. After this he is proclaimed King, and crowned in the cathedral of Cracoiv by the Archbiftiop of Gnefna. Poland, in conjunction with the Great Dutchy * which is annexed to it, conftitutes a Republic, of which, indeed, the King is confidered as the head ; but moft of the power is lodged in the Senate, or Council of State, and the Noblefle. The King is not permitted to enter into a war, to aflemble an army, conclude a peace, or to make any public alliances ; nei- ther is he inverted with the power of fending envoys on important occafions, impofing taxes, contributions or cuftoms, or of coining money without the confent of the States. He is to make no laws, determine no religious dis- putes, nor to alienate any of the royal demefnes ; nor, laftly, is he to ' undertake and carry into execution any matters of importance that concern the kingdom, without the confent of the States duly convened. Among his royal prerogatives, the chief is, that the King has the difpofal of the pofts of honour, and the royal demefnes. But, without confent of the States, he is neither to diminifli, or increafe, the honorary pofts ; nor to confer above one office on one perfon ; nor to deprive any one of his poft. As for the ecclefiaftical preferments, the King nominates the Archbiihops and Bifhops, except the Archbiftiop of Ermland ; and the Pope confirms the nomination. The King is patron only of twelve abbeys and one provoftlhip. The reft of the abbots are elected by the monks, and confirmed by the Pope. The King of Poland has, at prefent, little or no property in what is called the royal eftates ; but is obliged to beftow them on private perfons ; and the Conlideration-money does not come into the King's coffer?, bat is applied to the fervice of the Republic. Thefe eftates conlift of Starofleys t * Lithuania. Vol. I. 4 E in 577 57 8 INTRODUCTION TO in Latin * Capitaneatus, either with or without a jurifdidtion annexed ; Tenures, in Latin Tenuta, a tenendo, quod qui tenuiam habent, tenent aliquid,fcu pcßdenf, to which belong lands and villages ; and Advocations, which conlift of fome arable land, meadows, mills, &c. The other royal prerogatives are as Mows. The chief care of the public welfare is committed to the King, who is to coniult with the States about every thing relating to the kingdom : His Majefty fummons the ordinary and extraordinary Diets or aflemblies of the States, and prefides in them : No law can be made without his concurrence; and they are all promulgated in his name. The King is alfo the chief Protedlor of the laws and fubjedts of the Kingdom. The Tribunals and Courts of Judicature are held in his name ; and he confers new, and con- firms former, privileges. The Sovereign can grant titles of Nobility, but not the privileges annexed to thole titles, which require the content of the States ; and when no Diet is affembled, he can coniult with the Counfellors and Minifters of his Court. The King alio has power to fend Envoys on affairs which are not of great confequence to the Republic ; and when he is in the army, he has the chief Command, and can fummon the Nobility on any emergency. Thefe, and fome other particulars of lefs confequence, make up the royal prerogatives of the Kings of Poland. §. 1 1. The royal Revenues are in Poland termed ' Eftates for the Kings ' table, Oeconomies, and Oecumenical revenues.' Thefe were formerly very confiderable ; but, at prefent, do not amount to a million of Prußan Gilders. The revenues arife from the falt-mines in the Palatinate of Cra- cow ; the decayed lead and filver-mines of Qlkufli when they come to be wrought again ; the ancient tolls and cuftoms ; the oeconomy or rents of Marienburg in Prußa, Dirfchau in Pomerellia, and Rogenbus in the Diftridt of Culm ; thofc of the Great, but now fmall, Prefecture of Cracow, which brings in about 20,000 Prußan Guilders, and of the Diftridt of Niepoiiomicz s which are nearly the fame with the preceding ; and the tolls or cuftoms of Elbing and Dantzic, with other annual fums paid by thofe cities. Thefe re- venues and lands the King can neither augment, diminifh, nor farm for lefs than the real value. They muft be farmed to none but Noblemen who are natives of Poland and refident in the country, and that at the higheft rate poftible. The only revenue particularly appropriated for the ufe of the Queen, is the fum of 2000 gold guilders annually paid to her Majefty out of the falt-mines of Cracow. §^12. The arms of the Republic are, Gules an eagle Argent for Poland y and Gules a cavalier Argent for Lithuania. §.13. The Order of the White Eagle was inftituted by King Augußus II. in the year 1705. Its enfign is a crofs of gold enamelled with red, with a white border and four flames between the points, appendent to a blue * i. c. German Latin. Prefeßura would better exprefs the Pcliß word Staroßey. ribbon. POLAND. ribbon. On one fide of the badge is the Po/iß White Eagle, with a white crofs and the Electoral fword, &c. on its breaft. On the other fide, the King's cypher A. R. and round it this motto : Pro Fide Rege, et Lege, The crofs is furmounted with a crown fet with diamonds. §. 14. The Polißj Senate, or Council of State, confifts of one hundred and forty-four members, who are all ftiled £ Senators of the kingdom, or Counfellors of State,' and have the title of Excellency ; however, they have no appointments or penfions as Senators. The Senate confifts I. Of two Archbifhops, namely, thofe of Gntfen or Gnefna in Great- Poland, and Lemberg in Raffia. The Archbifhop of Gnefna is next in rank to the King, and fits on his right hand in the Senate. He is alio Leoatus natus, or perpetual legate of the See of Rome, Primate of the church, and Primas regni ox Primus Princcps, i. e. * the firft Senator, and firft Prince of kingdom.' In the King's abfence, or during the vacancy of the throne, he may fummon the Diet ; afiemble the Senate or Council of State ; propofe the articles to be debated, and carry them into execution ; give audience to foreign ambafiadors ; and, at fuch times, is always the Interrex. This Pre- late likewife crowns the King and Queen ; and is ftiled Canonicus natus, or canon born, of the cathedral of Ploczko. He refides at Loiiicz, where he has his Marfhal, Crofs-bearer, and Chancellor. This high dignity i« always enjoyed by a prelate ; for the Poles are apprehenfive leaft a layman mould be tempted to fet up for himfelf, and make his way to the throne. Next to the Primate is the Archbifhop of Lemberg, who fits on the King's left hand in the Senate. II. Fifteen Bifhops, who fit on both fides, next to the Archbifhops, in the following order. 1. The Biihop of Cracow, who is Duke of Seven a, and has ecclefiaftical jurifdi&ion over the three Palatinates of Lejfer Poland properly fo called. This Prelate's revenues are larger than thofe of any other Bifhop, or even the Archbifhop of Gnefna ; and fix Bifhops of Cracow are found in the lift of cardinals. Though he is the firft Bifhop, he fits on the King's left hand, next to the Archbifhop of Lemberg. 2. The Bifhop of Wladißaw in Cujavia, who alio ftiles himfelf Biihop of Pomerellia, fits on the King's right hand, next to the Archbifhop of 'Gnefna. During a vacancy of the throne, and the abfence of the Archbifhop of Gnefna or vacancy of that See, this Prelate fits as Interrex. 3. The Bifhop of Pofenor Pofnan, whofe Dioceie, befides the palatinate of Pofnia, comprehends part of Mafavia and Warfaw. In the abfence of tiie Primate and the Biihop of Cifivij, he prefides at the Election of a King. 4. The Bifhop of Wilna, whole Dioceie extends beyond Lithuania :\\X White Ruffia, as far as the borders of Mafovia. This Pi-elate and the pre- ceding take place of each other alternately. 4 E 2 5. The 1 579 5 8o INTRODUCTION TO 5. The Bifhop of Ploczko, who is fupreme and abfolute Lord over the Diftricl of Pulto'wa in Mafiiia-, fo that there lies no appeal from his fentence even to the King. His ecclefiaftical jurifdiction extends alfo to the Diftrict of D.brzin. 6. The Bifhop of Ermland in Pruffia, of whofe Diocefe we have given an account in our defcription of that kingdom. This Prelate depends im- mediately on the Pope. 7. The Bifhop of Luocko in Volbynia, whofe Diocefe alfo includes a part of Mafivia and Podhchia, and of the palatinate of Brzefcie in Lithuania. 8. The Billiop of Prcmifiaw, or Przemifi, in Little Rußia. 9. The Bifhop of Samoyten y or Samogztia, who alfo ftiles himfelf 'Bifhop of Pi If en in Courland.' 10. The Bifhop of Culm in Prußa, who has alfo the title of ' Bifhop of Ponwania* 1 1. The Bifhop of Chehn in Little Rußa. 1 2 . The Bifhop of Kiew and Czcrnikow. ■ 13. The Bifhop of Cameniec in Podolia. 14. The Bifhop of Livonia. j 5. The Bifhop of Smolenfio. Two of thefe Prelates, namely, thofe of Kiew and Smolenfio are only titular Bifhop«, thofe cities being now in the poffeifion of the Ruffians r however, the titles are thought worth folliciting for, on account of the rank and feat in the Senate annexed to them. After thefe ecclefiaftical members of the Council, are the lay Senators, namely, III. Thirty-feven Woiewodas or Palatines, including the three Caftellans and the Staroßa of Samogitia, who rank with the Palatines. The office of a Woigwoda or Palatine is to march at the head of the Nobility of his Woie- ivodzwo or Palatinate in time of war ; as his title implies, which is derived from Woy/ia, which fignifies war, and Wodz, a leader: and in time of peace he is to afiemble the Nobility, to prefide in the Courts of Judicature and pronounce fentence ; to fettle the price of goods brought to market,, except in war time, and during the feffions of a Diet ; to examine weights and meafures ; and laftly, to protect and adminifter juftice to the Jews. Some of the Palatines are meerly titular Woie-wodaSy without any palanti- nates, as thofe of Kiow> Smolenfio, and Czernikow. Every Palatine is a Prince by his office. The King has the nomination of all this clafs y except the Staroßa of Samogitia, and the Palatines of Polocko and Witepfi, who are chofen by the Nobility of their refpective Palatinates, and con- firmed by the King. Some of the Palatines, efpecially thofe of the pro- vince of Rußia, are fond of the title of Gcneval-JVoicwoda. No Palatine is permitted to hold two palatinates at the fame time ; and every Woicwoda or Palatine has his Deputy-? foiewoda. The Palatines, and other Senators who- Bank, with them, are in order of precedency as follows, The p L AND. The Caftellan of Cracow ' The Caftellan of Wilna. The Palatines of Cracow and Pof- The Palatines of Kal/ß, Track, nania, who alternately change their and Siradia. places of rcfidence and order of The Caftellan of Treck. voting. The Palatine of Leczycz. The Palatines of Wilna and San- The chief Staroßa of Samogitia. domir. The Palatines of Brzcjl in Cujavia. Mafovia. Kiow. Podlacl.ua. Jungenleßau. Rawa. Rußa. Brzefcz in Lithuania. Volhynia, Culm. Podolia. Mfcißaw. Smolenfko. Marienburg. Lublin. Braclaw. Polocko. Pomerellia. Behk. Minsk. Novogrod. Livonia. Bloch. Czernikow. Sir Witepsk. IV. Eighty-two Caßellani, or Caftellans, who in time of peace are only Senators without any jurifdiction. But in time of war, by general lummons, they act as Palatines, whofe Lieutenants they in fome meafure are, and march at the head of the Nobility under the Woiewoda's. In the Polijh lan- guage, a Caftellan is filled Pan or Lord, and the termination ki or Jki is added to the name of the place over which he is Caftellan ; as Pan Pojhanßi, * Lord of Pojhan,' Pan Plocki, Lord of Plocko.' They are divided into Great and Little Caftellans ; the latter have been admitted into the Senate pofterior to the former. The Great Caftellans, together with the other ipiri- tual and temporal fenators are admitted into the molt fecret councils, from, which the others are fometimes excluded. The Great Caftellans are thofe of Pofnan. Jimgenleßau* Sendomir* Lemberg. Kalißj. Volhynia. Woynicz. Caminiec. Gnefna. Smolenßor Siradia. Lublin. Leczycz. Polocko. Samogitia. Behk. Brzeß in Cujavia, Novogrod. Kiow.,. Plocko.. Witepsk, ■62 I NTRODUCTION TO Wittpik. Elbing. Czern. Braclaw. Pod/achia, Dantzick. Rawa. Minsk. Brzefi in Lithuania. Livonia. Cuhn. Czernikow. Mfcißaw. The Little Caftellans are thofe of Sandecz. Brzezinin. Miedrzizecx. Krufzwicz. Wiflicz. Ofwiecim. Biecz. Kamia. Rogozno, Spicimierz. Radom. Inowlodz. Zawikoß. Kowal. Landen. Santok. Szrem. Sokaciowo. Zanwwo. JVarfaiv. Malogoß. Goßyn. Wielun. Wifna. Przeimß. Raciaz. Halicz. Sieprz. Sanock. Wyfzogrod. Chelmno. Rypin. Dcbrzyn. Zakroczym. Polaniec. , Ciekanowo. Przemecz. Liwa. Kriwitio . Slon. Czekowo. Lubaczoivo. Nakel. Konar in Siradia. Rofpirz. Konar in Leczycz, Biekoivo. Konar in Cujavia. Bydgofzcz. V. Laflly, the Crown-Officers, in Latin Officiates feu magiflratus majores Ordinis fenatorii. Thefe are The Crown Great-Marfhal. The Great-Marfhal of Lithuania, The Crown Great-Chancellor. The Great-Chancellor of Lithu- ania. The Crown Vice-Chancellor. The Vice-Chancellor of Lithuania. The Crown Great-Treafurer. The Great-Treafurer of Lithuania, The Crown Deputy-Treafurer. The Deputy-Treafurer of Lithu- ania. The Crown Court-Marfhal. The Court-Marfhal of Lithuania. Thefc POLAND. 5 8 3 Thefe State-Officers, though they are the laft of the Senators in order, are perfbns of great power and dignity, and in a fair way of rifihg to the highcif. ports in the kingdom. §. 15. The Diets are ufually held on two accounts ; namelv, to con ~ fider on the refolutions of the Senate relating to the public welfare, and for the adminiflxation of Juflice. They are divided into Comitia iogata, which are the molt ufual Diets, when the States affemble in the city ' : without any tumult or military attendants; and Comitia paludata, when they meet armed and in the field, which are generally held during ah Interregnum. The Aflemblies of the States are alio commonly diftinguiihed into Ordinary and Extraordinary Diets. The former, by the laws of the Republic, are fummoned once in two years ; but the latter are aflembled on an exigency, before the expiration of that term ; and to thefe Ex- traordinary Diets either all the States, or only the Senators, are fummoned. The moft ufual place where the Diet aflembles is the city of JVarfaw, but every third Diet is held at Grodno in Lithuania. The Diets are preceded by the Lantage, or Provincial aflemblies of the Nobility, according to the King's appointment ; and for thefe, par- ticular places are fixed in every province and Palatinate. In thefe Pro- vincial afTemblies the Deputies or Reprefentatives of the Nobility, and of the Provinces, who are fliled in Latin Nuntii terrejks feu Delegati provin- ciales, are chofen. Thefe Deputies either receive particular inftruclions how to act in the Diet ; or their conduct in the deliberations is left to their own judgment and probity. After this, the General-Provincial-Diets were formerly held in the fol- lowing places ; namely, in Great Poland at Kolo % in Little Poland at Korczyn, which is alio called Neujladc ; in Lithuania at Slonim -, and in Prußia at Graudentz or Marienburg alternately. The principal State Officers, the new-elecled Reprefentatives, and fuch of the Nobility as were inclined, ufually afiiited at thefe afTemblies, and from thence they proceeded to the Grand Diet. But thefe General-Provincial-Dicts have been gradually difufed, except in Mafovia, where they ftill hold thele aflemblies, and from which they repair to the General Diet at Warfaw. The Prußians alio meet in the fame manner at the places appointed, before they proceed to the Diet. The refolutions of the Diet may be prevented by the oppofition of any Angle Reprefentative, whether it relate to the matter under deliberation, or fome remote affair arbitrarily introduced ; and fuch an oppofition even annuls all the preceding acls of the Diet. Hence it comes to pafs, that the Polijh Diets lb frequently terminate without doing any thing. But whatever is unanimoufly aflented to by the Reprefentatives, the Senators, and the King, has the force of a decree of the Diet, pafies into a law, and is printed and * Either at JVarfaw in Poland-) or Grodno in Lithuania, publifhed 584 INTRODUCTION TO publiihed accordingly. When the Noble Poles enter into an affociation either during an Itcrregnum, or while the King is living, it is called a Confederation. §. 16. Among the Officers of State are two Generals; one of whom is ftiled the Great General, and the other the Lieutenant-General. Thefe Officers, as Generals, have no feat in the fenate ; however, they may be, and often are, Senators. The principal Secretary of the Kingdom, and that of the Dutchy of Li- thuania, are alio admitted into the fenate, after a folemn oath, as Affif- tants ; and in the abfence of the Chancellor, fupply his place at court, and have the precedence of all provincial and court-officers, excepting the Court- Marfhal. The Secretaries are always noble ecclefiaftics. The next to thefe in rank are the Referendaries. Of thefe there are two for the Kingdom, and two for Lithuania ; and one of them is an ecclefiaftic, the other a layman. At prefent, they have no power to hear and report the complaints of private perfons ; but their bufinefs is to decide, in their particular courts which are called Referendariatus, the difputes arifing betwixt the farmers of the King's eftates and Oeconimies, as they are called, and the peafants. They have alio a feat in the AffeJJbrial and Relation Court. The other State-Officers of Poland and the Great Dutchy of Lithuania are, the Court-Treafurer ; the Under-Chamberlain j the Standard-bearer j Sword-bearers ; the Mafier of the horfe and his Deputy ; the Clerk of the kitchen ; the Cup-bearer ; the Carvers, Tafters, Huntfman, &c. §. 17. In every Palatinate and Diftrict are the following officers, who are ftiled Dignitarii ; namely, a Vice-Treafurer, a Standard-bearer, a Judge, a Tafter, a Cup-bearer, an inferior Judge, a Vice-Steward, an Under-Cup-bearer, a Huntfman, a Captain or Military Officer, a Secretary, a Sword-bearer, a Lieutenant-Captain, and a Cofferer. Some of thefe, viz. the Sword-bearer, Cup-bearers, and Treafurers, have only the title and dignity, without any adual employment 3 unlefs the king happens to take hisrelidencein their palatinate : but the reft are in adual employment. The Vice-Treafurer only takes cognizance of affairs relating to the boundaries and the demelhes in his province ; but the Vice-Treafurer of Cracow has alio the inflection of the felt-mines in that country. Here we muft alio take notice of the Cajlellani or Caftellans whofe office, &c. is defcribed above. Next to thefe are the Staroßas* in Latin Capitanei judiciales, who not only have the care of the royal caftles, but are likewife to preferve the good order and tranquility of their refpective Staroßies, and not to fuffer any violences or robberies to be committed in their Diftri&s. They have power to judge and punifh the inhabitants of the town or country, and even the Nobility, in their jurifdiction ; and when no other magiftrate is willing or ab e to do it, they put in execution the fentences paffed by ecclefiaftical or lay-judges. They alfo have an eye to the rights and profits of the Sovereign or proprietor, arifing either from the occupyers of the lands, or the affeffments and revenues paid by the Burghers and Peafants ; and have jurifdi&ion over the POLAND. 585 the caftles, villages, and farms, and alfo of the royal towns and village?. Every Starojia has his Deputy, who is generally called Under-Sta?-q/ta, , and in his name fuperintends the whole Staroftey ; and alfo a Burgrave, who maintains the public tranquility, and executes the fentences paffed by the Judges. In the ordinary courts of juflice, a Grod, or caflle-judge, and a Notary, who is alfo called the Grod-clerk, affift. The Staro/la's arc generally diftinguifhed by the caftles and extent of land in their jurifdidtion, rather than by the palatinates to which they belong. Some of them pre- fide over more than one DiftricT:. There are alfo Staro/la's who have no juridiction ; and thefe indeed are more numerous than the former. Some Bifhops, Princes, and wealthy Noblemen have alfo their caftles and Staroflas. The towns in Poland are governed by Burgomafters and a Common Council ; and the villages by Village-Judges, as they are called, and other inferior officers. Some of the plebeians in the cities, towns, and villages, are vaflals to the King, others to Princes and Noblemen ; and a good many are vaflals to the Clergy. Thefe are governed rather by the arbitrary will of their Lords, than by any fixed laws. The Courts of Judicature in Polajid are, 1 . The Court-Tribunals, which are divided into Ajfejforial Court;, and Courts of Reports ; and in thefe appeals may be lodged from the towns. 2. The Provincial Courts. 3. The Palatine Courts. 4. The Starojia 's and Vice-Treafurer's Courts. There is a particular Tribunal for the Nobility, which was firft held at Peterkau for Great Poland, and afterwards in Lublin for Little Poland $ and the judges of this Court confift both of ecclefiaftics and laymen. The Lithuanian Tribunal is held at Wihia, Novogrodek, or Minjk. §. 18. All the Clergy are fubject to the Archbifhops and Bifhops. The Bifhops have the principal direction of the ecclefiaftical courts, where thty are reprefented by their Commiflaries, Vicars, Chancellors, and Officials. The principal Official is called the Official-General ; and the reft are ftiled Provincial-Officials. From the Bifhops and their Commiflaries an appeal lies to the Archbifhops ; and from the Archbifliop of Lemberg to the Arch- bifhop of Gnefna \ and laftly, from him to the Pope. The ecclefiaftical Judges punifh the Clergy immediately ; but the intervention of the civil power is neceflary to put in execution their fentence paffed on laymen. The Clergy affume an unlimited authority in every part of the kingdom, and are endeavouring to engrofs the power and wealth of the nation into their own hands. §. 19. We are now, in the laft place, to give an account of the military forces of Poland. No fuch thing as a ftanding army, kept In conftant pay, was formerly known in this country } but all that were capable of bearing arms in the nation took the field on any emergency. In the year 1551 the Lithuanians firft began, for the fecurity of their frontiers, to keep on foot, and pay a certain number of troops. Their example was followed Vol,I, 4 F by ;86 INTRODUCTION TO by the Poles, who raifed an army to defend their frontiers from the ravages of their roving, lavvlefs neighbours, who live on plunder. The fourth part of the produce of the royal 'Table-lands, as they are called, are appropriated to maintain thefe troops ; hence they are called Quartians ; and the money appointed for the payment of them is depofited in the caille of Raica. But as thefe Qnartians were found not to be fufficient for the defence of the kingdom, the army was augmented, and divided into Cavalry and In- fantry ; but the former were more numerous than the foot. The troops are now divided into the Crown-army, and that of Lithuania ; but fbme of the troops in both armies are clothed and exercifed in the Polijh, and others in the German manner. 1. The Crown- Army confifts of iooo Spear-men. 3940 Cuiraffiers. 1000 light armed troops. All thefe are difciplined in the Polifl: manner. 4000 Dragoons. 0750 foot lbldiers. 850 matrolTes. 400 Hungarians. All thefe, except the Hungarians, are trained in tke German diicipline. 2. The Lithuanian army is compofed of 400 men bearing lances or fpears. Above 1 160 Cuiraffiers. 460 Tartars. 240 Cofaks. Four regiments of Dragoons. Three regiments of foot. 1 50 matrofles ; befides a corps of Janizaries and Kuruks. Both thefe armies are paid twice a year. The charge of thefe troc» in Poland is defrayed by a capitation or poll-tax; but in Lithuania other taxes are levied for this purpofe : the foldiers alio receive what is called Winter- Quarter-money befides their pay. The troops are moftly cantoned on the crown-lands. Befides this flanding-army, which receives conftant pay, Poland, on any preffing exigency, is provided with another which can fpeedüy be got together, and is of no charge to the Public. For on any ludden and im- minent danger, the whole body of the Nobility are fummoned to appear in the field on horfe-back ; and fuch a general fummons of the Nobles is in the Polißj language called Pofpolite RuJ'zenie. This is concluded upon in a Diet, after having been previouily propofed in the provincial meetings ; and is done by royal Letters with the feals of the kingdom and the Great Dutchy of Lithuania. Thefe, being fattened to poles by the fummoners, are carried to the principal Noblemen, State-Officers, and perfons of rank in every palatinate, and read in the Market-places of the cities and towns. When this has been three times repeated, the Nobility, after holding their afiemblies. POLAND. 5 8 7 affemblies in their Palatinates and Diftricls, appear in the fieltl on horie-back, and, during the campaign provide fubilitence for themfelves. The follow- ■.■ ßefföHS äi'fi exempt from obeying this fummons, viz. the Minifters of the Senate or Council of State, and thofe who are about the King's perfon ; Envoys at foreign courts, the Burgrave of 'Cracow, the Under-Staroftas, and the Clerks of the revenue; thirty officers of the Queen's houfhold ; in- valids, and fome few others. The reft are obliged to appear, under forfeiture of their efiatcs, &c. The King himfelf always marches at the head oi this army. The cities and towns provide carriages and other military if ores ; and likewife a certain number of foot foldiers. After the Nobility have been a fortnight at the general rendezvous, if no enemy appear, they are at liberty to return to their refpedtive homes. Thefe troops are not obliged to go bc-vond the limits of the kingdom : but it this be refolved by the States, and the Nobility voluntarily conform, every horfeman and foot- foldier previoufly receives five Polijh marks *, and the campaign is not to laft above three months. Such a general fummons has not been iffued fince the year 1672; fo that it may be claffed among the rare occurrences: Nor is it of any great advantage to the Republic, on account of the fliort duration of the campaign, the want of good difcipline and obedience to their chiefs ; of proper arms, fufflcient fupplies of provifions, and other im- portant articles. Foreign auxiliaries arc not to be brought into the kingdom without the content of the States. Few or no fortified places are to be feen in Poland or Lithuania : for the Poles alledge that the courage and bravery of the in- habitants is the beft defence of their country. Kamcnicc, on the frontiers of Podolia, owes its ftrength more to Nature than art. The fo much boafled fortifications of the City of Zamoßi, if compared to fortified towns in other countries, muff appear very inconliderable ; and all the towns, which formerly flood only one liege, are now open and defenceless. When a loreigner reads of fortified places in Poland, he mull not fuppofe that fuch cxpreflions fignify any thing more than a ditch, a rampart, a wooden or a itone-wall, with which fuch places are furrounded. Dantzick is the only place that deferves the name of a fortrefs in the Polißi dominions ; but this is an independent city. §. 20. The Kingdom of Poland confifls of three principal Provinces, namely, Great Poland, Little Poland, and the Great Dutchy of Lithuania. This divilion is of great utility with regard to the public law of Poland, according to which the nation confifls of three diltincT: people and three provinces ; and the Marfhal in the Diet is alternately chofen from thefe pro- vinces. Of this the reader may fee more in Lengnick's Jus publicum Reg/ii Poloni, Tom. I. p. 18. In confequence of this divifion we fhall begin with the firft. * A Poiifn mark is about 4;, 6d. fterling. 4 F 2 GREAT [ 588] GREAT POLAND; O R WIELKOPOLSKA PROWINCYA. T HIS name, taken in a more extenfive fenfe, includes Maßvia and Polißj Prujfia. Great Poland confifts of the following Divifions. I. GREAT POLAND properly fo called, Which is alfo termed Lower Poland. This Province contains five Palatinates or Woietvodzo's, which are, i. The Palatinate of Posnania or Poznan, in Latin Palatinatus Pofria- nienjis, with the three Diflricfs of JVfihowa, Rofiian, and Walecz. The Staroßa of Pofnania is chief Staroßa of Great Poland. The remarkable places in this Palatinate, &c. are, Pofen or Pofnan, a handfome but not very large city on the river Warta. It is inclofed with a double wall and a deep moat ; and on the other fide of the Warta it has two fuburbs, namely, Szrodka and Walifze-ivo, which are furrounded with a large morafs. Botli the city and luburbs are fubjecr. to frequent inundations by the overflowing of the river. The caftle fiands on an ifland in the Warta, and is a good ftru&ure. Befides feveral churches and convents, the public edifices of this town are the Jefuit's college, founded- by Bifhop Adam Konarfei, and built according to the model of that at Brunfivick ; an accademical Gymnafium inftituted by Bifhop John Lubran/ki, and from his name called Athenäum Lubranfiianum, which itands in the fuburbs; and an Epifcopal Seminary. The Bifhop's palace fiands near the cathedral, which is. a fine flrucfure, and between the moralTes. This is the firfl in rank, and the moft ancient Bifhop's See in Poland. It was founded by the Emperor Otho I. in the reign of Miccziflaus I. King of Poland, and made fubordinate to the Archbifhopric of Magdeburg \ under which it continued a considerable time, till it was fubje&ed to the Archbifhopric of Gnefna. This city owes a great part of its profperity to the trade with G.Poland.] POLAND.^ 5 3g with Germany : It is a ftaple-town, and enjoys feveral other privileges« A Court of Judicature is held in this city ; and the Chriftian Religion firfl gained a footing in this part of Polatid. In the year 171 6, Pofnan was garrifoned by Saxons ; but taken by ftorm, and plundered by the Poles. Golan, a fmall town which lies in one of the roads from Pofnan to Dantziek. In this Palatinate alfo lie the towns of Sroda, Litbien, Czamkoiv, Glufzyn, and Obra. Rogojzno, Szrzem, Przemecz, Krzywno, and Santok, are fmall town? ; and in each of thefe a Cafiellan refides. Blefen, a ftately abbey on the frontiers. MeJeritz or Miedzyrzez a town on the borders of Brandenburg, where a Cajlellan refides. Here is an Evangelical or Lutheran church. This town was plundered in the year 15 19. Paradyz, an abbey in the neighbourhood of MeJeritz. Fraujladt, called in the Polijh language UJkowa, a handfome town on the frontiers of Silefia, was built by Germans, and a great part of its inhabitants are pf that nation. There are three Lutheran churches in this town ; and the inhabitants cany on a confiderable trade in oxen and wool, A Court of Judicature is alfo held here. Fraußadt formerly belonged to Silcßa ; but King Cafunir annexed it to the Polijh dominions. However, that Prince promiled to maintain it in its former privileges, among which was the right of coining money. In the year 1644, this town was almoft entirely deilroyed by lire; and in 1706 the combined armies of the Saxons and Rußians were entirely defeated by the Swedes near this place. Lijfa or Polijh Lijja, by the Poles called Lcfzno, a fine, populous town and lordlhip not far from the preceding, in the territory of which it lies. Lißa was formerly no more than a village. But when great num- bers of Protectants from Siie/ia, Bohemia, Moravia, and Außria removed to this place, and obtained the free excrcile of their religion, it con- iiderably increafed, and was raifed to a town. The inhabitants carry on a good trade. Here is a Lutheran church, a Gymnafium or Seminary, and a Calyinift church ; and the General-Senior of ail the Evangelic or Lutheran churches in Great Poland, who was formerly i tiled the Super- intendent, refides in this town. In the year 1656, the inhabitants quitted the town for fear of the Pcli/lj troops, who plundered and laid it in afhes. In 1707 it was alio laid wafte by the RuJjians; but after this, it was rebuilt with great improvements. Ridzin, or Reujfen, which lies about a German mile from Polijh Lijja, is a caftle belonging to the LJezinJki family. Before it was demolished by the Saxons in 1705, it was one of the fmeft ftructures in all Poland. It is very pleafantly litur.ted on an iiland formed by a river, and near a wood, through which a vifta is cut in a ftraight line that is terminated by a diftant view of the town of Lißa. 5 Ravitz } 590 P L A N D. [G.Poland. . Ravitz, a fmall town, but well planned and regularly built ; fo that the four gates of it may be feen from a certain point of view. It is fur- rounded with a rampart, which is but mean. The German is the only language fpoken here. Mod of the inhabitants are Lutherans ; and among them are leveral woollen weavers : Hence cloth is the chief manufacture of the place, in which it drives a confiderable trade. Charles XII. of Sweden took up his winter quarters in this town in 1704, and continued here till the Auguß following. Krobe, formerly a rich and large village, well known under the name of Sulcava, but now a fmall town. Koßen, a little town iituated in a marfliy country, remarkable for a Court of Judicature held in it. Note. To this Palatinate the Staroßey of Draheim, which was mortgaged to the Elector of Brandenburg, belongs. 2. The Palatinate of Kalish, called in the Polijh language Kalifz, and in Latin Palatinatus Cal'ißienßs, with the Diftridts of Konin, Py'zäry, Gniezno, Krcenia, and Nakio. In this Palatinate are the following places of note. Borcck, a fmall town feated on a lake. Here is a famous image of the Virgin Mary, to which great numbers of pilgrims refort. Kahßj or Kalifz, a large town furrounded with moraffes, a wall, and towers, lies on the river Projha. The Jefuits college here, which is fo highly extolled by the Poles, was founded by Stanißaus Karnkowjki Arch- biÜiop of Gnef/ui at his own private charges. Here is held a Court of Juftice ; and this town is the relidence of a Palatine and a Caftellan. In the year 1655, Kal/ß was taken by the Swedes. In 1706, General Mardefeld and the Swedißo army were totally defeated and taken prifoners by the confederate army, commanded by Augufius II. King of Poland, near this town. Grabau -, Cofmin, where is a Court of Judicature ; Plefrow, Kolo, Sta- wifzyn, Romi, where alfo is a Court of Juflice ; Landen, Pyzdry, and Slupcza are all little towns. The Provincial Diet for Great Poland is held at Kolo. Olobok, a rich nunnery, is a handfome ftructure, and lies between Grabau and Kallß, about two German miles from the latter. Razimierz, a village lying betwixt Slupcza and Poßan, where the un- fortunate Count Patkul was broke alive on the wheel and impaled, by order of Charles XII. of Sweden, in the year 1708. Gnefna or Gnefen, in the Polißj language Gniezno, the capital of Great Poland, and the moll: ancient city in the kingdom, lies in a plain. It is a large town, and the See of an Archbiiihop, whofe power and grandeur have been defcribed above*. A Caftellan relides, and a Court of Ju- dicature is held in this town. Boleßaus I. bought the body of St. Adalbert * Seep. 579. or G.Poland.] POLAND. 59 i or Albert, whom the Priiffians had murdered, and had it conveyed to Cnefna and buried in the cathedral ; and King Sigifmnnd III. enclofed his remains in a filver fhrine. But whether the Saint's bones are (till preferved here, or whether they were carried away to Prague by the Bohemians in the year 1038, is the fubjecl: of an idle difpute between the Poles and Bo- hemians, that, probably, will never be cleared up. This city was erected into a Biihop's See by Bole/lam I. in the year 1000. There is a parti- cular Chancellor belonging to this Chapter, and a Gymnafium or Seminary is founded here. The Kings of Poland were formerly crowned in this city. In 16 1 3, almoft the whole town was deffroyed by fire. Naklo, a fmall town, and the refidence of a Caftellan 3 a Court of Juftice is alfo held bere. 3. The Palatinate of Siradia, or Sieradz, in Latin Palatinatus Sira- dien/is, contains the Diflii&s of Szadek, Piotrkow, and Radomß. In this Palatinate are the following places of note. Sir ad or Siradia, in Polifh Sieradz, a pretty good town on the river Warta. It has a cattle, and a Court of Judicature. In the year 1290, the Tartars made themfelves mailers of this town, and in 1292 it was plundered by the Bohemians ; and laflly, in 1 3 3 1 it fell into the poffeflion of the Knights of the Teutonic Order. Laß, Pabianice, and Szadek, where a Court of Judicature is held ; Warte, Uniejoio, Spicimierz, JVidaiva, Sulejoxv, Witow, Wolborz, and Ko- niecpol, are all inconiiderable towns. Petri 'kou; Pet er kau, or Piotrkoiv, a commercial town, but not very large, in which formerly the Kings of Poland were elected, and the Diets held. At prefenr, the High Tribunal of Great Poland, a Provincial Court, and likewiie the Synod of the Clergy of the province, are held in this town. A college of Jefuits, and another of the Patres piarum fcholarum are founded here. Petrikow was confumed by fire in 1640, and in 1731. Radon iß, a fmall town, in which is held a Court of Judicature. It is alfo the feat of a Starcfla. The territory of Wielun, in which are the following town?, viz. Wiehtn, the feat of a Staroßa and a Caftellan, where a Provincial Diet, and a Court of Judicature are alio held ; Boleßa-cier, Dzia/oß ■•", Oflrssc fi m» ! Grabow, and Wierußxw. 4. The Palatinate of Len&icz or Leczvza, in Latin Palaiimtm Lcncitieiifis, contains a Staroftey which includes three DilTricls, namely,. Brzeziny, Orlow, and Inaic-lodz ; and has four Caftellans. The towns, &c. in this Palatinate are, Lenczicz, a town lying in a morals near the river Bfura. It is fur- rounded with a wall and a moat, and is defended by a caflle which Hands on a rock. A Provincial Diet, a Court of Judicature, and Provincial Synods of the Clergy are held in this town, In the v'ear 1462, it was burnt 5 9 2 POLAND. [Cujavia, burnt by an accidental fire ; in 1294, it was laid in afhes by the Lithuanians ; and in 1656, when it was garriibned by the Swedes, it was burnt by the Poles, who put rnoft of the inhabitants, efpecially the Jews, to the fword. Piatek, a (mail town belonging to the Archbifhop of Gncfna, and fa- mous only for the excellent beer brewed there. Unienow, a town feated on the Warta, which alfo belongs to the Archbifhop of Gnefoa, with a handfome caftle. This town was confumed by fire in the year 133 1. The Clergy of Poland held a Synod here in 1376. Brzeziny, a fmall town, in which a Court of Judicature is held ; Klc- dawa, Kutno, Lodz, Orlow, Konarzew, Inowlodz, and Biekoiv, are fmall inconfiderable towns. 5. The Palatinate of Rawa, in Latin Palatinatus Raven/is, was for- merly a part of Ma/övia; and contains the three Starc/hes of Rawa, Goßyn, and Sokaczow ; each of which is the refidence of a Caftellan. The nioft remarkable places in this Palatinate are, Rawa or Rava, a fmall, but populous town, where the Provincial Diet and a Court of Juftice are held. Here is alfo a Jefuits college. In the caftle of Rawa the fourth part of the monies arifing from the royal demefnes is depofited, in order to pay the troops which ferve for frontier o-uards ; and ftate-prifoners are alfo confined in it. Viajdum, a fmall town, with a fine caftle. Lowicz, a populous town on the river Bfura, in which ftands a palace belonging to the Archbifhop of Gnejna. This town lies in a morafs j and, befides a cathedral, has three other churches and fome convents. Among the inhabitants are great numbers of artificers -, and the fairs held in this town are famous for a great variety of goods which are expofed to fale in it. The Provincial Synod of the Clergy is held here. Goßyn, a fmall town and caftle, where a Provincial Court of Judica- ture is held. A Caftellan and a Staroßa alfo refide here. Gombin, Gambin, or Gabin, and Sokaczow, are fmall towns> in which Provincial Diets and Courts of Judicature are held. Mogilnica, Skiemiewice, and Bolemow, are fmall towns of little note. II. C U J A V I A. THIS part of Great Poland is very fertile, and is watered by a great many lakes which abound with fifh: the principal of thefe is the lake of Goplo, which is five German miles in length, and half a mile in breadth. The Bifhop of Cujavia is a fuffragan to the Archbifhop of Gnefna, and alfo ftiles himfelf Bifhop of Pomerellia, This Bifhopric was formerly Cujavia.] POLAND, formerly called the diocefe of Knifwico, for the cathedral was in that city ; but the See was afterwards removed to JVladißaiv, fo that it is now alio called the diocefe of Wladißavi >. Cujavia contains two Palatinates, namely, r. The Palatinate of Brzesc or Kujawski, iri Latin Palatinatus Br&fli- enfis, which includes the Diftricts of Krufzicica and Koival, Remarkable places in this Palatinate are as follows. Brzefc, a fmall town fituated in a marihy country, and furrounded with a wall, a rampart, and a moat. A Provincial Court of Judicature is held in this town ; and a Caftellan and Staroßa refide here. Krufzwica, a fmall town, feated on the lake of Gop/o, with a caftle which (lands on an illand in the lake. St. Peters church, which has a chapter of twenty-four Canons, lies without the city. The famous King Piafi was at firft a Burgher of this town. It is the refidence of a Caftellan; and a Court of Judicature is held here. Krufznaica and its territory forms a particular Diftricl. The See of Cujavia was firft founded io this town. Wolborz, the refidence of the Bifhop of Cujavia. Kowal, a fmall town with a Diftrici, where a Court of Judicature is held. A Caftellan refides here. Wroclawek, Brdoiv, Niefzaiva, and Wifla, are fmall towns of little note. Radziejow, a fine caftle, where a Court of Judicature and a Provincial Diet are held. 2. The Palatinate of Wladislaw or Jungenleslau, in Latin Pala- tinatus Wladißavienßs or Juniuladißavienßs. To this Palatinate belongs the DiftricT: of Bydgofcz, as do likewife Plowceivies, Labifzyn, Dybow, and Strzclno. In the laft place is a nunnery, which is (aid to be the richeft in all Poland. In this Province are the following towns, &c. Wladißa-Wy a handfom city feated on the Vißula. Here is a palace where the Bifhop of Cujavia refides, which was built and decently furniihed by Bifhop Stanißaus Karnkoivßi. The See was femoved hither in the year 1173 from Krufwica. Some date the foundation of this town as early as the year 966, when Mieczi/Iaus I. fat on the throne ; but others date it only from the reign of Micczißaus II. grandfon to the former. Incw/oczaw, Inowiadißow, or 'Jungenkßaiv, is a fmall place; in which, however, a Court of Juftice is held, and a Caftellan and Staroßa refide. In the territory of Dobrzyn, which has had feveral mafters, and in- cludes the Diftrict of Rypin and Lipne, are the following towns. Lipne, a fmall place where a Staroßa refides, and a' Court of Juftice and a Provincial Aflembly is held. Rypin, a little town in which a Provincial Diet and Court of Judicature are likewife held. Skonipe, a fmall town. Here is a convent of Minims, where a famous image of the Virgin Mary is kept. Vol. I. 4 G Gorzno, 593 594 POLAND. [Mafovia. Gorzno, a fmall town belonging to the Bifhop of Plocsk. Near this place a fkirmifh happened between the Swedes and Poles, to the difadvantage of the latter. Bobrowniki, a town of little note. III. MA SO V I A, or M A S U R E N. 'T^HIS country has, from the beginning of the Poliß monarchy, been ■*■ confidered as a part of that kingdom. And though the inhabitants revolted on the deceafe of Mieczeßaus II. Caßmir I. foon reduced them to obedience. In the partition which Boleßaus III. made of the Poliß domi- nions between his four fons in 1138, Mafovia was given to the fecond fon, (afterwards Boleßaus IV.) who was fucceeded by his fon Lefco. The latter bequeathed it to Caßmir his father's brother; and after this, it devolved by inheritance on Caßmir 's youngeft fon Conrad. Hence it appears, that this province had its own Dukes for along time. Duke Wenceflaus became a vaffal to John King of Bohemia in the year 1329 but Charles, that monarch's fon, having transferred the fovereignty of Mafovia to Caßmir the Great, King of Poland, Siemonit Duke of Mafovia was obliged to be inverted with this country as a fief dependent on Poland. In the year 1 526, the male line of the Dukes of Mafovia being extinct, theDutchy became immediately fubjecT: to Poland. And though King Sigifnund I. was ftrongly importuned to make his fon Sigifnund Augußus Duke of Mafovia, he could not be prevailed on j but that Monarch having firft confirmed the rights and laws of the inhabitants, annexed it to Great Poland in 1529. King Stephen, in the year 1576, endowed Mafovia with the fame rights and privileges as the reft of the kingdom ; but permitted the inhabitants to retain fome of their ancient cuftoms. This province has been twice given to the Queens of Poland as a dowery; and for fometime was governed by a Statthalter appointed by the King. But in 1576, the Woiewoda of Mafovia was placed on the fame footing with the other Palatines. No other religion but Popery is tolerated :tn this province ; thofe of other profeffions being treated with the greateft feverity : For if a Lutheran or Calvinift Minifter be found in Mafovia, he is certainly punifhed with death. Staravolfcius computed the number of noble families in this country to be, in his time, no lefs than 45,000. Mafovia confifts of two palatinates, which are, I. The Palatinate of Czersk, (in Latin Palitinatus Czercenfis) or Mafo- via properly fo called. This includes ten Diftricts, namely, Czersk, Wars- zaiaa, Wizna, Wyszogrod, Zakrocim, Qeianoiv, Nur, Lomza, Rozan, and Liiv. To the territory of JVarfaw belong the Diftridts of Blonsk and Tarczyn, to that of Liw the DiltricT: of Pidtusk; and the territory of Lomza 2 includes Mafovia.] POL A N D. 595 includes the Diftricls of Qfiroleka, Koluo, and Zambrvw. As to ec- cleiiallical affairs, this palatinate is under the jurililiction of the Bifhops of P of nan, Ploczli, and Luocko. The mod remarkable places in it are Czersk, a fine city on the river Viflula, where a provincial Court of Judi- cature is held. In 1656, Frederick, Margrave of Bad ;,-, withdrew to this place, which the Poles befieged for two days : But happily for him, they drew off their forces on the third ; upon which he made the beft of his way to IVarfaw. Warfaw, or Warfzawa, is the capital of Majovia, and the royal relidence ; it has alio a ftately caftle. The general Diets of Poland are ufually held in this city ; which is feated on the Weijfel or Viflula, and lies almofl in the centre of the kingdom. It is furrounded with a moat and a double wall ; and conlifts of the Old and the New Town, with two handium luburbs, called Krakau and Praga. Here arc feveral elegant itone buildings and palaces, a great number of beautiful churches and convents, a hofpitai, an arfenal,*and a Itatue of King Sigijhund III. erecled to his memory by his fon Uladflaus IV. The valuable library of Count Zaluski, which was opened in the year 1746, and is faid to contain above 200,000 volumes, is both an advantage and ornament to the city. Some years lince, an academy for military exercifes and a literary fociety were inftituted at Warfa%v. When the general Diet is aflembled there is fuch a vaft concourfe of people in this city, that great numbers of them are obliged to pitch tents with- out the town, where they live during the feffion. The provincial affembly or Diet, and a Court of Judicature are alfo held here. King Sigifnund III. was the firfl who made this city the royal refidence ; and his fucceilbrs have relided here ever lince. In the year 1569, in order to gratify the Lithuanians, the Diet was removed to Warfaw. In 1655 this city had a Swedijh garri- fon, who brought hither a confiderable booty Irom feveral parts of Poland, and a great number of military and civil officers, with fome ladies of dif- tinction ofthat nation, refided here. But the Poles laid liege to it in 1656; and after a molt vigorous defence, obliged the town to lurrender. By the articles of capitulation, the Swedes were permitted to leave the place ; but the belt part of the plunder they had amaffed together fell into tke hands- of the Poles. However, Charles Gußavus approaching with an army to the relief of the town, King John Ca/imir marched againlt him ; and a battle was fought near the fuburb of Praga which lalted three days. At lalt, the Poles were obliged to retreat, leaving behind them their baggage and artillery ; upon which the Swedes placed a fmall garrifon in the town, and deltroyed the fortifications. In 1702 Charles XII. of Sweden made himfelf mafter of Warfaw, which happened to be then without a garrifon ; and fixed his head quarters at Praga. Wola, a village which lies about half a German mile from Warfaw, on the plain where the King's of Poland are elected, j 4 G 2 J'iafdow. 59 6 POLAND. [Mafovia. Viafdoxu, a royal palace, pleafantly fituated on the Vißitla at the diftance of a German mile from WarjaiD. Villanow, a royal palace, built by King John III. known by the name of Sobicski; who alfo ended his days in this place in the year 1696., In the month of Augufi. 1732, KmgAugußus U. exhibited near this palace a fpedtacle, which had never before been feen in Poland. For he ordered his army, which was dilciplined in the German manner, to encamp clofe to the walls of Villanow, where he reviewed the troops, and caufed them to perform all kinds of military exercifes. This fplendid encampment lafted for three weeks. Lcmza, a town on the river Nareiv, remarkable for a college of Jefuits. It is the reiidence of a Staroßa and a court of juftice 5 and provincial aflemblies are held here. Pultusk, a town on the fame river, with a caftle built on an ifland. This town together with its territory belongs to the Bimop of Plocsk, from whom lies no appeal even to the King himfelf. The public buildings are a ftately cathedral with a chapter-houfe, and a college of jefuits. In 1324 and 1364, Pal tusk was laid in afhes by the Lithuanians; and in 1703, the Saxons were defeated here by Charles XII. of Sweden. Wifzogrod, a fmall town and caftle feated on the Vißula. It is the refi- dence of a Caftellan and a Staroßa ; and a court of juftice is held in it. Wizna, Nur, Zakroczym, Ciekanoiv, Zambrow, % Rozan, and Liiv are fmall towns. Courts of Judicature and Provincial Affemblies are held in all of them except Zambrow ; and mention has been already made of them above. Warca, Garnaolin, Blon, Tarczyn, Wonfoz, Radzieloio, Kolno, Oßrolen- ka, Makow, Camenccz, and Oßrcw, are likewife fmall places where courts of juftice are held. Czernienjk, Grodzye, and Prafni, are fmall towns of little note. 2. The Palatinate ofPLOCZKo, in Latin Palatinatus Plocenßs, contains three Diftridts, namely, Plonsk, Raciaz, and the territory of Xawskryn. The moll confiderable places in this Palatinate are Ploczko, a city which ftands on an eminence by the Vißula, from which there is a very pleafant profpec~t. It is the See of a Bifliop, who is fuffra- gan to the Archbifhop of Gnefiia, and fovereign of the territory of Pultusk. This city is alfo the refidence of a Palatine, a Caftellan, and a Staroßa. Here are feveral churches richly ornamented ; the principal among which are thofe which belong to the Nuns of St. Mary Magdalen, and the Benedictine Monks in the caftle. The latter is the cathedral ; and the revenues of the Chapter are almoft equal to the Bifhop's : The Prcvoß, or Dean, is Lord of the Diftridl of Sielun, and fovereign of the Nobility who refide there ; and ac- cordingly is ftilcd Prince of that territory. The Jefuits have a college here; and in the caftle is a Gymnaßum or Seminary. The provincial Court of Judicature is held in this city ; and its inhabitants carry on a good trade. Bielskot, and Shrimky are fmall towns of little note. Sierpecz, L. Poland.] POLAND. Sierpecz, a little town, remarkable for a famous image of the Virgiu Mary. Plonsk, Raciaz, and Zauskryzn, are fmall places where courts of judicature are held. The provincial Diet alfo arfembles in Raciaz. Mlawa, and Razanow are fmall towns of little note. IV. PO LIS H P RUS S I A. ' I K HIS country has, probably, been added to the general province of Great Poland, and looked upon as a Diftridt of it, becaufe it borders on that part of the Polijh dominions. However, we ihall not give a parti- cular account of it here; but refer the defcription of Polijh Prujfia to another place in the fequel. LITTLE POLAND, Or MalopolskaProwincya. HP HIS country is alfo called Upper Poland, and properly contains the pa- -*- latinates of Cracow, Sendomir, and Lublin ; but the provinces of Rußa, Volhynia, Kiovia, and Podlachia are alio annexed to Little Poland. We mail therefore defcribe I. The Three PA LATIN ATES which conftitute Little Poland properly fo called ; and thele are i. HT^HE Palatinate of Cracow, in Latin Palatinatus Cracovienfis, which ■■> includes the Diftricts of Sczerzyc, Profzow, Xiaz, Lelcw, Sadecz, Czkoiv, and Biecz ; and alfo the three Dutchies of Ofwiecim, Zator, and Severia, which formerly belonged to Silejia ; and the County of Scepus. The Dutchies of Ofwiecim and Zator are Staroßies ; but Severia is fubject to the bifhop of Cracow. Places of note in this Palatinate are Lelow, a town with a territory belonging to the Staroßey of Cracow. A Court of Judicature is held here, and likewife at Xiaz and Czkow. Miekow, a little town whofe fituation is faid to refemble that of °Jerufakm\ which city the founder, Gryphius jfaxa, took for his model when he built 2 this 597 59^ POLAND. [Cracow. this town in memory of his pilgrimage to "Jerusalem. He afterwards granted this place to the Knights of the Holy Sepulchre. M/low, a fmall town on the river Warta. Czen/lokowa, a little town en the fame r'.ver. This place is principally famous for a convent of Monks of the order of St. Paul the hermit, which Hands a little without the town on the Clarenberg and is celebrated for a piclure of the Virgin Mary pretended to be painted by St. Luke; fo that it is much frequented by pilgrims. This convent is fortified, and main- tains a garrifon. In the year 1655, it flood out afiege when preffed by the Swedes. Near this town a battle was fought in 1665 between the King's forces and Prince Lit betn er ski's army, to the difadvantige of the former. The nupti- als of King Michael with Eleanor, lifter to the Emperor Leopold, were folemnifed in this town in 1670. Olsztyn, a fmall place with a caftle, which ftands on a rock near the Warta. Olkusz or Ilkush, a fmall town, which was famous for its lead and filver mines, and belongs to the King. The produce of thefe mines was fbrmerlv verv confiderable ; but they have not been wrought for many years, and are fallen to decay. However, they are capable of being reftored. Cracow, the capital of the whole kingdom, and the fixed refidence of the King, is feated in a fertile country at the conflux of the Vifiula and the Ridaiva. Cracow, properly fo called, is furrounded with walls, and contains a great number of convents and churches ; and among the latter that of the Virgin Mary is the principal. On the well fide of it is a fuburb with beautiful gardens ; and near it ftands the King's Palace with elegant gardens and a canal, which are inclofed with a wall. On the fcuth fide of it, the royal caftle ftands on a high rock near the Vifiula. This large ftruclure is defended by walls, towers and baftions ; and has the appearance of a town. It includes the King's palace, the cathedral, and two other churches, with feveral dwelling houfes. The cathedral is dedicated to St. Stanijlaus, formerly bifhop of this See, whom Bolefiaus II. killed at the altar with his own hands, becaufe the good Bifhop's admonitions were grown infupport- able to him. The remains of St. Stanifiaus are inclofed in a filver fhrine ; and mafies are continually performed day and night in this church. In the treafury of the cathedral, among other things of great value, the Regalia, namely the crown, fcepter and Monde are depofited ; and on this account theTreafurer of the Kingdom has the care of it. The Kings of Poland are always crowned, and their remains are interred in this church. The Bifhop of Cracow is alfo Duke of Scveria ; but an account of this Prelate's dignity, Off. has been given in the Introduction to Poland*, The annual revenue of the bifhopric of Cracow amounts to 40,000 dollars. The chapter con- fute of thirty-fix canons, befides other priefts, whole revenues are alfo very * See page 579. confiderable Cracow.] POLAND. confiderable. Contiguous to the caftle is the fuburb of Slradomo, which in- cludes feveral churches, convents, and hofpitals ; and from Stradomo a bridge over the Vißula leads to the town of Kazimircz, which may be looked upon as the fecond divifion of the city of Cracow. It lies to the eaft of the latter, was built by Cafimir the Great, and is inclofed with a wall. The chief edifice in this pari; of the city is the Univerfity ; but Cafimir the Great was prevented by death from compleating it. However, it was quite finifhed by King XJladißaus Iagello t and his contort Hcdewig, in the year 1401. It confitts of eleven colleges, to which fourteen grammar fchools, difperfedin feveral parts of the city, are fubordinate. The Bifhop of Cracow is perpetual Chancellor of the Univerfity. In the year 1549, it received a fevere blow ; for all the (Indents quitted the Univerfity in one day, alledging, that fufficient iatisiaclion had not been made to their comrades, fome of whom had been killed, and others wounded in a frivolous quarrel. The yews Town joins to Kazimierz. Laftly, to the north of it lies the fmall town or fuburb of Kleparz or K/epardia, which has no walls ; but contains feveral churches, particularly that of St. Florian, a very (lately edifice, and the Bifhop's palace. The city of Cracow is large, and was formerly very opulent and flourifh- ing ; but by the removal of the Court, and the many calamities it fuftained in both the Swediß wars, it has very much declined, and is far from being fo populous as it formerly was. The Germans and Italians had once brought its commerce to a great height ; but, at prefent, it is very inconfiderable. The Burghers of Cracow have this particular privilege, namely, that no appeal lies from the City-Council, but to the King only ; and his Majefiy can judge no caufes relating to the city, or to die towns of Kafimierz and Kleparz in any other place, but in Cracow. The Woiewoda or Palatine of Cracow has the power of choofing the council, but not of difplacing any Counfellor when elected. The Cafiellan of this city has nothing in com- mon with the other officers of that denomination ; however, he has the fame name and appointments, and by his pod: is entirely exempt from ferving anv other pffices,except that he is obliged to appear in the Council. The inhabitants of Cracow are likewife allowed the privilege of purchasing and holding eftates. As to the historical particulars relating to this city; it is faid, but with little certainty, to have been founded by a Polijh or Bohemian Prince of the name of Crocus in the year of Chrift 700. It was erected into a Bifhop's See in the year 1000 ; and in the year 1257, it obtained the municipal rights of Magdeburg. It has often been confumed by fire, namely, in the •years 1241, 1260, 1439, 1462, 1473, 1494, 1504, 1652, and 1702. Cracow wasvifited by the peftilence in 1707 and 1708, which fwept away feveral thou- fands of the inhabitants. In the year 1655, it was beiieged and taken by the Swedes; but in 1657, they were obliged to deliver it up again to the Poles* Tinieck, a Benedictine convent, which ftands on the Vißula, and is one' of the principal monafteries in Poland, whofe Abbot is always one of the canons 599 6oo P L A N D. [Cracow. of Cracow. It was founded by Cafimir I. in the year 1046. It is chiefly celebrated for the learning of the monks belonging to it, and their fkill in the fciences. To this convent belong five towns and one hundred villages. The Abbot DerJIaw, when this monaftery began to decline, raifed it to its former profperity, and Miekcki made the monks a prefent of his library and mathematical mufeum. Claratumba, or Mcgila, a rich, beautiful, and fortified Ciflercian convent; It lies about a German mile from Cracow, and is famous for being the burying-place of Queen Vanda. Profzowice, a town with a territory ; and in it are held the aflemblies of the Nobility of Cracow, and alfo a Provincial Court of Judicature. The foil hereabouts is exceeding rich and fertile. Bocnia, a town famous for its falt-mines, which were firft difcovered in 125 1, when this place was only a village. The fmall river called Raab, that falls into the Vijiula, runs near this town, which is furrounded with hills and eminences. The falt-mine of Bocnia is in a narrow flip of land of feventy-five Lachter * in breadth from North to South \ about one thoufand in length from Eaft to Weft; and the greatefl depth of it is one hundred and twenty Lachter from the furface. The fait lies in veins, and is fomething finer than that of Wieliczka, efpecially at a certain depth. It is cut in fmall pieces and put up in cafks. The number of labourers in this mine is about two or three hundred. Large pieces of black wood have been found in this mine, which are incrufted with fait; and likewife alabafter. Every part of thefe mines is very dry. They are under the direction of the magiftrates of Wieliczka. , Wieliczka, a fmall town, but famous for its falt-mines, lies in a valley about a German mile from Cracow. The town is entirely undermined j and the mines extend for a confiderable diftance round it. The length of the mine from Eaft to Weft is fix hundred Lachter, the breadth from North to South is two hundred, and its greateft depth is eighty Lachter. But the viens of fait are not limited to this extent; for the depth and length of them from Eaft to Weft are as yet unknown, and only the breadth has been hitherto determined. The number of {hafts, at prefent, is ten ; and within the whole falt-mine there is not fo much as one fpring. The fubterraneöus ' pafiages or galleries are very fpacious; and in many of them altars or chapels are hewn cut of the falt-rock. In thefe chapels Crucifixes, or the images of Saints, are fet up ; and a light is kept con- tinually burning before them. The places where the fait is hewn out of the mine, and the empty cavities where it has been formerly hewn out, are called Chambers ; and fome of thefe are (o fpacious that a large church might be inclofed in one of them. Several of thefe Chambers are made ufe of as warehoufes for the fait caiks, or magazines for fodder for the horfes ; * A Lachte is five Drcfda; ells, or ten feet. and Cracow.] POLAND. 60 1 and others fcrve for ftablcs, in which twenty or thirty liorfes ftand, ac- cording to the number that the work requires. In fome chambers, where formerly the water has ftagnated, the bottoms and iides are covered with very thick incruftations of lbme thoufands of fait cryftals one upon another; many of which weigh half a pound, or more : and when any candles happen to be brought into thefe places, the numerous rays of light reflected by thefe cryftals emit a furprizing luftrc. In fome parts of the mine huge columns of fait are left ftanding to fupport the rock. The num- ber of miners employed in thefe mines are between four and five hundred; but the falt-works may be faid to employ feven hundred men in all. The fait lies in large fhapelefs maffes near the furface, out of which, blocks of fixty, eighty, or a hundred fquare feet may be hewn ; but at a con- fiderable depth it is found in fmaller lumps. Above 600,000 quintals of fait are annually dug out of thefe mines. The worft and cheapeft fort is called Zielona, i. e. ' green fait ;' which is probably fo called from its greenifh colour, caufed by a heterogenous mixture of a grayifh mineral or clay. It confifts entirely of falt-cryftals of different dimenfions ; and a cafk of this fait, which generally contains fix quintals, fells for about twenty* two Poli/h Guilders. But a quintal of that in large maffes or blocks is worth thirty-two or thirty three Florins *. A finer fort of fait is called Szybikoiva, which is fold for twenty-four Florins per cafk, and in large blocks at four Florins the quintal. The third fpecies of fait dug out of thefe mines is the cryftal-falt, or fal gemma. This is found in fmall pieces interfperfed in the rock, and when detached from it, always breaks into cubes, or redlangular prifms. This is ufually fold unprepared. The colour of the falt-ftone is a dark gray mixed with yellow. Salt was formerly boiled out of the Sole, as it is called, which is accumulated in the mines ; but this has been difcontinued fince the year 1724, on account of the too great confumption of wood it occafioned. Thefe falt-mines have always made a part of the King's board-revenues, as they are called, and are generally farmed. Sometimes, however, the King has kept them in his own hands, and appointed proper officers for the management of them. The office of Mine-mafter at JVieliczka is hereditary in the family of Morfztein; and a confiderabie falary arifing from thefe mines is annexed to it; but as the falt-works are part of the King's table-revenues, the Mine-mafter has no other advantage from his office. The Nobility in Great and Little Poland are allowed a fufficient quantity of fait for their families and vaffals, (which amounts annually to above 20,000 cafks) on paying only four Poliß Guilders par cafk, though it ftands the King in twelve Guilders a cafk. Thefe falt-mines are faid to have been difcovered in 125 1 ; thole at Bocknia being firft wrought, and fome time after thofe at Wicliczka. In 1444, and 1696, thefe mines accidentally took fire, and continued burning for a long time. * A 1 ' i T lorin is equal to is. 2d. fading ; and a Polifli Guilder is about 6d. \. Vol. I. 4 H Lipowiec, 6o2 POLAND. [Cracow. Lipowiec, a fmall town on the Vißula, with a caftle built upon a rock, which ferves as a prifon for eccleiiafiical delinquents. Landßron, a ftrong caftle built on a high rock. In the neighbourhood of it is a convent, which ftands on a mountain called Calvary, and is much frequented by pilgrims. Sandecz, a fmall walled town on the river Donaiecz. It carries on a good trade, and is the feat of a Caftellan.. It is further remarkable for a college and a monaftery of Premonßratenjes. The caufes belonging to the Diftrict of Sandecz are tried at Cfzkow. In Old Sandecz, which is about a German mile diftant from this place, is another convent of Premonßra- tenjes, which is reckoned the richeft monaftery in all Poland. Pienin, a caftle well fortified by Nature, which is acceffible but by one avenue, and that very narrow. Tarnow, a town and caftle, in which are two convents, and a collegiate church. Biecz, a fmall town, in which a Caftellan refides, and a Court of Ju- dicature is held. Andrzeiow, or Dederzeiow, a town near the frontiers of Hungary and Sileßa, in which is a Cißercian abbey. In the year 1576, an affembly of the Nobility was held here, when the election of King Stephen Bathori was confirmed; and in 1607 the Rokoßians, or Noblemen engaged in the League, alfo affembled in this town. The fmall towns of Promink, Rudawa, Czerna, Teczyn, Oycow, Alwernia, Niepokmice, Skala, Olbrom, Pilica, Ogrodzieniec, Krzepice, Zarki, KJobucko, Nowytarg, alfo lie in this Palatinate. The Dutchy of Oswiecim, which, in 1457, Caßmir III. purchafed from Sileßa, and annexed to Poland, is, at prefent, a royal Staroßey, and in it lie Ofwiecim, a fmall town on the Vißula, which confifts of wooden houfes, and has a caftle of the fame materials ; and Rety and Xywiec, two other fmall towns. The Dutchy of Zator, which was mortgaged to the republic of Po- land in 1494; and adual poffeflion was taken of it in 15 13. It is, at prefent, a Staroßey in the King's gift, and includes Zator, a town and caftle on the Vi'jhila, where a Provincial Affembly and Court of Judicature are held ; and Berwald, a fmall town. Severika, or Siewejrz, a Dutchy, fold in 1543 by the Duke of Teßen, in Sileßa, to the Bifhop of Cracow, who, about three years after, took pofldiion of it. The Bifhop of Cracow is ftill the Sovereign of it, is alfo ftiled Duke of Severia, with full power even in civil cafes. In this Dutchy lie the towns of Siewcirz, or Severia, the capital, which has a ftrong caftle built on an ifland in a large lake. Slawkom, a fmall town, near which is a filver-mine. The Cracow.] POLAND. & The county of Scepus or Zips, the greateft part of which was mort- gaged in the year T412, by Sigifmund, King of Hungary, to Uladißaus Jagello, King of Poland, and has not yet been redeemed. The mort- gaged towns and caftles are, Lublyo, Durandfdorf, Fulek, Padolin, Deutfchendorf Kirchdorf, Kniefeti, Michelfdorf Matzdorf Be/a, Neudorf, and Laibitz, Rißdorf, Georgenberg, Menhardfdorf Vallendorf with all their dependencies. For a defcription of thefe places, and of the other part of the county Zips, the reader is referred to Hungary . and particularly to the account of Upper Hungary. 2. The Palatinate of Sandomir or Sendomir, called in Polifh San- domirz, and in Latin Palatinatus Sandomirienfis, includes the Diftricts of Radom, Stezyca, Wifiica, Checiny, Opoczno, and Pi If no. Remarkable place in this Palatinate are, Sandomir, Sendomir, or Sandomirz, the capital of this Palatinate. It ftands on an eminence near the Vifiula, not far from the influx of the river San into the former. Its delightful fituation rendered it the fa- vourite refidence of Cafimir the Great, and other Kings of Poland. This city is well fortified both by Nature and Art ; and in it are a college of Jefuits and other Orders, and a rich foundation called Collegium Cano- mcorum. The caftle, which Hands on a fteep rock, was blown up by the Swedes in 1656. A Provincial Court of Juflice is alfo held here. The Sendomirian Starofiey is the only one in Poland that can neither be mortgaged, nor let on a perpetual leafe. In the year 1259, the Tartars and Ruffians committed terrible ravages in this city, and put the inhabitants to the fword. On the twenty-fecond of Anguß iy 02, the Nobility entered into a confederacy at Sendomir, and engaged by a folemn vow, to defend their religion, their liberty, and their lawful King Augußus II. Pilfno, a fmall town, in which a Staroßa refides, and a Court of Juflice is held. Within its territory lie Sendifoio, Zamovecz, Socolow, Praeclaic, Zaclyn, and Lazakißo, all places of little note ; but in the laft is a celebrated image of the Vigin Mary. The caftles of Rzemient, Vieviork, Chrifio- pher, and Baranow, are alfo in this Diftricl. • Olefnicz, Stobnica, Paczano-w, Polanecz, Stafozv, and Ofieco, are final! towns in this Palatinate. Korczyn, or Neußadt, is a town and caftle feated on the Vifiula, where a Scarofia refides, and the Provincial Diet for Little Poland h held, Wiflica, a fmall town, which flands near the river Niba in the middle of a morafs. It is the refidence of a Caflellan ; and a Court of Judi- 4 H 3 cature 6 °4 POLAND. [Cracow. cature is held here. In 1 136, the Ruffians having taken this town by treachery, facked and plundered it. Wißica is frequently mentioned in the hiftory of .Poland. Söorow, and Cbrobers, two caftles of little note. Pinczow, a Marquifate, belonging to Count Wiolopolßi. Its chief town is Pinczow, remarkable for a Gymnafium or Seminary. Szydkw, an old town, in which a great number of Jews is found amongft the inhabitants. Rakow, which was formerly a populous town ; and the Socinians, or, as they are called in Poland, the Arians, had a college and printing- houfehere; but in 1643, they were expelled from this place. The Ra- hman catechifrn takes its name from this town. Checiny, a fmall town, remarkable for its lead and filver mines, and mar- ble quarries. It has a caftle, which ftands on a high rock, and a Sta- rofia. An inferior Court of Judicature is alfo held here. The mines of Checiny belong to the King. Malogocz, a fmall town, where a Caftellan refides. Sulow, a fmall town, with an abbey of Cißercian monks, to which fome of the neighbouring towns belong. Setzini, a good town, with a caftle built on a rock. Near it are filver mines, in which Lapis lazuli is alfo found. Kielce, a fmall town, in which are a cathedral and an epifcopal palace. The mines which are wrought near this place belong to the Bifhop of Cracow. Radcßiczs, Opoczno, Inowlod, Drevitz, and Zarnowo, are fmall towns j but the laft is the refidence of a Caftellan. Stezycz, a fmall town on the Vißula, rendered famous by the Diet held there in 1575, and by the affembly of the Nobility in 1606. A Caftellan alfo refides in this town. Radcm, a walled town, and the refidence of a Caftellan and a Staroßa. A Provincial Diet, a Court of Judicature, and the Poliß Court of the Treafury, which lafts fix weeks every year, are held here. Iedhnsk, which is remarkable for an academical Gymuaßum. Tarnow and Szydlowiec are fmall towns. Vonkocz, a rich convent of Cißercian monks. In the neighbourhood of this monaftery are fine ftone quarries, and iron-works. Kunow, a fmall town belonging to the Bifhop of Cracow, near which are quarries of fine marble. Ilza, a pretty town, which likewife belongs to the Bifhop of Cracow. It has a caftle, and is remarkable for a good earthern-warc manufacture. Kaleberg, in Latin Mons calvus, is the higheft mountain in ail Poland. The abbey of the holy crofs, which is famed for many pretended mira- cles and the crowds of pigrims who refort to it, ftands upon this mountain. 2 There Cracow.] POLAND. foj) There is not lb much as a tree growing on this hill } hence it derives its name of Kaleberg, ' or the bare mountain.' Bozentin, a town furrounded with a wall and a rampart, which belongs to the Bifhop of Cracow who has a palace here. It lies juft at the fuot of Kaleberg. Lagow a fmall town, in which earthern ware is made. It belongs to the Bilhop of Cvjavia. Slupccz, a fmall town belonging to the abbey of the holy crofs. Opatm», h conftdefable toWn, fituated in a plcafant and fruitful country. Here is a large collegiate church ; and a -Diet- is held in this town. Iwanßz, a fmall town of little note. Zawikofi, a fmall town and caflle on the Vißula, governed by a Cai- tellan. Here is a nunnery; and in the year 1205, the Rußans were de- feated near this place. The towns of Lvfagora, Szydlowiec, Sieciekow, Piotrowin, Borzeein, Skrzynno, Studziana, Dzikow, Baranow, Dambrowa, Choretnik, and Poloviec, lie in this Palatinate. 3. The Palatinate of Lublin, in Latin Palatinatus Lublinenßs, contains the Diflri&s of Lukow, and Urzedow. In ecclefiaflical matters, it is under the jurifdidtion of the Bifhop of Cracow. The following, are the moil remarkable places in this Palatinate. Urzedow, a town fituated on a lake, in which a Court of Judicature is held. The towns of Kock, Krafnik, Lewartow, Piajkl, Lacza, Parczow, and Palawy. Kazirnierz, a well-built town, fituated among rocks near the Vißula. It is a place of confiderable trade ; and is one of the towns which con- flit ite the jurifdiclion of the Six Towris, as it is called. In the year 1656, Charles Gußavus pafTed the Vißula at this place, and defeated Czarniecki the Caftellan of Kiow. Lublin, a city furrounded with a wall and a ditch, and a place of good trade but not very large. It has a caflle built on a high rock, and flands on the little river Byflrzna in a very pleafant and fertile country. Here are feveral churches and convents, and a college of Jefuits. Great numbers of Jews live in the fuburbs of Lublin, and have a fpacious fynagogue there. Three annual fairs are held here (and each of them lafls a month) which are frequented by great numbers of German, Greek, Armenian, Arabian, Rußan, Turkiß, and other traders and merchants. The chief Tribunal for Little Poland is held here, befides a Provincial Diet and Court of Judicature. In the year 1240, Lublin was fet on fire by the Tartars ; and after that continued for a long time in the pofTeffion of the Rußans. In 1447, and 1606, this town alfo differed greatly by tire ; and in 1656, it was laid in afhes by the Swedes. In 1703, an extraordinary Diet was held here. Lukow, 6o6 POLAND. [Podlachia. Lukow, a fmall town, in which a Staroßa refides^ and a Court of Juftice is held. Rakow, a fmall town of little note. II. PODLACHIA % Or the Palatinate of B I E L S K s In Latin Palitinatus Bielcenfis. THE Poles took this country from the Pagan Jaczvingians in the reign of Boleßaus V. and in 1596, it was annexed to the kingdom of Poland. This province was formerlythe occafion of many difputes and quarrels between the Poles and Lithuanians. In ecclefiaftical affairs, all Podlacbia is fubject to the Bifhop oiLucko. This Palatinate contains the three Diftricts of Dro- giczyn, Mielnik, and Bielsk. The moft remarkable places in this Palatinate are, Augißow, a beautiful town feated on a lake, and fo called from its founder King Sigißmmd Augußus. Knyßzn, a fmall town, where King Sigißmmd Augußus ended his days on the feventh of July 1572. Bialyßok, a city which is divided into the Old and New town. In 1753, the greateft part of this city was deftroyed by fire. Count Braniki's {cat and gardens in the New town, for their elegance, may be called the Verßailks of Poland. Tykoczin, a town of fome note on the river Narew, with a handfomecaftle, fituated amidft inacceffible moraffes. A Court of Judicature is held here. In the year 1705, King Augußus II. inftituted the Order of the White-Eagle in this town, which he conferred as a reward of courage and loyalty. Suraz, Vizfokie, and Branß, fmall towns ; but in the firft and the Iaft, Courts of Judicature are held. Bielcz. a large town, which is all built with wood j but is a place of great trade, which is carried on by the Jews. It is fituated on the river Biala which runs into the Narew. Grodepk, a little town on the river Bug. Drogiczn, a fmall town on the fame river, in which a Court of Juftice and a provincial Diet are held. MicdzileSy a fmall town where a Court of Judicature is likewife held. Mielnik, a fmall town fituated on the river Bug. A Court of Judicature and a provincial Diet are held in this little town. Bocki, Wegrow, Cickamwiec, Narew, Siemiatycze, and Waßlkow, are fmajl town«: j n this Palatinate. III. LITTLE POLAND, 607 III. LITTLE or RED RUSSIA, In Latin Rußia Parva or Rußia Rubra, THIS country was formerly governed by its own Dukes ; but on the de- ceafe of the laft Duke which happened in 1340, King Caßmir, by right of confanguinity, laid claim to Red Rußia, and rendered it a province of Poland. King Lewis divided the territories of RedRußa among the Hunga- rians; however, they were again driven out of them in 1396. And though Uladißaus Jagelk, by a^treaty of alliance concluded with Sigijmund, King of Hungary, by an overfight relinquished all right and claim to Rußia and Podolia, the country ftill remained under the dominion of Poland. Red Rußia includes the following Palatinates. 1. The Palatinate of Chelm, in Latin Palitinatus Chelmenßs, which has one Caftellan and two Staroßas. Remarkable places in this Palatinate are, Chelm, a city and epifcopal See ; but the Bifhop refides at Krafno/law, and is a fuffragan of the Archbifhop of Lemberg. Here is alfo a Greek Bifhop, who has his cathedral, and is fubject to the metropolitan of Kiow. In this city a Caftellan and Staroßa refide, and a provincial Diet and Court of Juftice are held. Krafnofiaw, a city where the Bifhop of Chelm and a Staroßa refide, lies on the river Vieprz. Here is alfo held a Court of Judicature. Maximilian Archduke of Außria, after he had been defeated by Zamoyßi at Byczyn on the borders of Sileßa, where he was obliged to furrender himfelf prifoner, was confined in this town in 1588. The following year hewasfet at liberty, on renouncing all claim to the crown of Poland, Ulodaw, a fmall town on the river Bug. Lafizow, a fmall place of little note. 2. The Palatinate of Belz, in Latin Palitinatus Belcenßs, which in- cludes three Diftrids, namely, Busk, Horodla and Hrabowiec. In this Pa- latinate are the following places of note. Horodla, a town on the river Bug, where a provincial Diet and Court of Judicature are held, and a Staroßa refides. At a Diet held here in 14 13, the Lithuanians were placed on a level with the Polißj fubje&s, with regard to offices, rights and privileges. Several families of the former were admitted among the latter ; their arms were quartered ; and many other ordinances were made in favour of the Lithuanians. Ruhie/kow, a fmall town of little note. Zamofcia, Zamofzcia, or Za?nofi, is a city and fortification, built "bv the famous Great Chancellor John Zamoyßi. It has a ftately cathedral and feveral other churches ; a decayed Univerfity^ of which the Bifhop of Chelm is perpetiml Chan- 6o8 POLAND. [Red Ruffia. Chancellor ; a charitable foundation called Mons Pietatis, and feveral valuable privileges : But the fortifications are now in a bad condition. The proprietor of this town, &c. ftiles himfelf Prince Zamoski. In the year 1656, Charles Gußavus, King of Swede?!, made a fruitlefs attempt upon this place: But on the twenty-ninth of December 1715, it was furprized' by the Saxons. Sczerbzefzin, Turcbin, Tamogrod, Tomajow, Tyfzowicze, &c. are fmall towns ; and for the rnoft part, belong to the territory of Samoskia. Beiz, a large town, and the refidence of a Palatine, a Caftellan, and a Staroßa. A provincial Diet and Court of Judicature are alfo held here. Graboiviec, Sokal, Bask, Olesko, Brody, Podkamenie, Toporow, are all towns of little note. Rava, a fmall town, where King Augufius II. entertained the Czaar Peter the Great for three days fucceffively, in the year 1698. A Conference was alio held here between the Deputies of the Confedrates and the Saxon army in 17 16. 3. The Palatinate of Lemberg or Ltaoiv, m Latin Palatinatus Lern- bergen/is or Leopolienjis, ccnfifts of four Diftricls ; and each of thefe is governed by a Caftellan and a Staroßa, and deferves a particular defcription. 1. The Diftrict of Lemberg, in which are the following towns, &c. Lemberg, called in Latin Leopolis, and in Polifli Liaoiv, is the capital of this Palatinate. It is a large opulent city, and pretty well fortified in the Polißj manner, that is, only with timber ; and lies low on the banks of the river Peltew, being furrounded with hills and mountains which com- mand the town. Lemberg is the See of a Popifh Archbifhop, and likewiie of a Rttßan and Annenian Bifhop. It carries on a confiderable trade, and has two caftles, one within, and another without its walls. The latter ftands on a high hill, and the Carmelite monaftery, which is fortified, may ferve for a citadel to this caftle. Here is a magnificent cathedral, and likewife feveral other churches, among which is a Rußian, and an Armenian church. Here are lbme rich convents, particularly that of the Dominicans, which is faid not to have its equal in Poland, a college of Jefuits, a Gym- nafium or feminary, an arfenal, a public granary, two Jewiih fchools, &c. A Provincial Diet and Court of Judicature alfo are held in this town. The inhabitants of this city are a mixture of feveral nations ; but no Proteftants are tolerated L amongft them. Lemberg was erecled into an Arch- bifhop's See in 1 361, or 1362. In the year 1375 the See was removed to Halicz ; but in 141 6, it was reftored to this city. In the year 1656 Lem- berg held out two months, when befieged by the Rußans and Cofaks ; and in 1672, it alfo baffled the attempts of the Turks; who, at laft, purchafed it for 80,000 dollars. But in 1704, it was taken fword in hand by Charles XII. King of Sweden. Jaivorow, a fmall town remarkable for its warm baths. Bialykamien, Red Ruffia.] POLAND. 6 cf) Bialykamien, a fmall place, near which the river Bug Ins its fource. •GJzniany, a town rendered famous by the äflembiy of the Ruffian No- bility on the death of Sigifinund Augujlus ; and in 1 648, the Polijh troniv made this town their place of rendezvous. Zborow, a town near which an obllinate battle was fought between the Poles on one fide, and the combined army of the Cofaks and Tartars on the other. In this engagement the latter were defeated and left 10,000 men dead on the (pot : But the day alter, a treaty of peace was concluded. Zloczow, Danilow, Grodeck, Komorna, Stry and Zolkielv, are all jncon- fiderable places; but the lall has a fine church, and a caille. 2. The Dilti id of Przemyß, m which are, yaro/law, a handfom town with a caille on the river San. It carries on a good trade ; and within the town Hands a college q/ Jefuits, and with- out it is another foundation belonging to the fame Order. In the veai 1625, this place was confumed by fire. Przawjl; a good town with a caille built on a rock. It lies in a fertile country near the river San ; and is the relidence of a Popilh and a Greek Bifhop, the former of whom is a luffragan of the Archbiihop of Lembgrg, It has alfo a Jefuits college, a Caflellan and a Starofta ; and a Provincial Diet and Court of Jullice are held here. Refow, a town with acallle, which carries on a confiderable trade, eipeciallv in linen. In the neighbouring country live a great many Germans, whole anceflors emigrated hither bythe invitation and encouragement of Cajimir the Great. Przeivorsk (which has a Court of Judicature) Lancut, Feljlin, Kreßezyn, Rzefzoio, Dombromil, Drobobycz, Lezcysk, Wifnia, Dubiecz, Samborz, &c. are fmall towns in this Dillricl. Samborz is a royal table-revenue as it is called, with part of the fält-works in this Palatinate which belong to it. 3. The Dillricl of Sanock is, for the mofl part a mountainous country. The principal places in this Dillricl: are Sanock, a town with a caille, feated on the river San, in which a Court of Judicature and a Provincial Diet are held ; and likewife a Callel- lan and Staroßa refide. Krojha, a better town than the foregoing, which has a flourifhing trade, and is the flaple for the wine and other commodities of Hungary. Here is . college of Jefuits. Brozotv, Dinow, Lesio, and laßißa are fmall towns of little note. 4. The Diflridl of Halicz. The fouth-eaft part of this Dillricl, which lies between the Niefler and the Moldau, is called Pocutia, and in it is the fource of the river Niefler. Remarkable places in this Dillricl: are Halicz, a town with a caille feated on the Nießer, which was formerly a large populous city, and the capital of the kingdom of Halicz : but now extremely declined from its ancient grandeur. In the year 1 ^7^ the Archi- Vol. I. 4 1 epifeppal T ] 610 POLAND. [Podolia. epifcopal See of Lemberg was tranflatea hither; but in 1416, it was re- moved again to Lemberg. This city has a Caftellan and a Staroßa ; and a Provincial Diet and Court of Juftice are held here. It is alio remarkable for its fait- works. Juroaa, Zydaczow, Kohatin, Kaczowce, Martinow, Oucze or Ufcie, Mo- naßer, Zäwalow, Kakolnic, and Buczaw or Boczoivcc, are fmall towns of little note. Brezmi a well built town, with a caftle. In 1698, the Poles bad an en- campment near this place. Sniatyn, a city of good trade fituated on the Truth, and the chief town in Tocutia. Stanißamoavo, Zablotow, Kolomyja, Dobrilow, Morcza, Ticzemenicze, Plomacze, JefupoJ> Kalufza, Woinkw, and Zarnowno, are all little towns in this Diftricl. IV. P O D O L I A. 'HIS is a very fertile country, but has, in all ages, been expofed to the inroads of barbarous nations, who live on plunder, and have often ra- vaged it in the mod cruel manner. Podolia abounds with a fine breed of horfes, and horned cattle. The inhabitants are of a warlike difpofition, and were formerly governed by their own Dukes or fovereigns. In the fifteenth century this country was the fubjedt of violent contefts between the Lithu- anians and Poles ; till at length by a Diet held at Lublin, it was annexed to Poland in the year 1569. Podolia confifts of two Palatinates, namely, that of Podolia, and the Palatinate of Braclaw. 1. The Palatinate of Podolia, in Latin Palatinatus Podolia, containing t\\zU\ft.n£t%oi Kaminiec, Latyczew, and Czernsoonogrod. In this Palatinate lies Kaminicc Podolßi, the capital, which has a caftle built on a rock. The latter owes its ftrength more to Nature than to art ; however, it is the' beft fortification in Poland. A little below it runs the river Smetricz, which falls into the Niefier. A Popifh and an Armenian Bifhop, and a Caftellan refide in this city; and a Court of Juftice and Provincial Diet are alio held here. This epifcopal See was founded in the year 1375. Here is alfo a college of Jefuits. In 1651, the Co/aks laid fiege to the caftle of Kaminicc, but without fuccefs. In 1672, the Turks obliged it to flirrender, and held it till the peace of Carlewitz, which was concluded in 1699. Paniowce, is a fortrefs near Kaminicc. The Turks attempted, in vain, to make themfelves mafter of this fort in the year 1621. The following fmall towns alfo lie in this Palatinate, viz. Grodeck. Tomaiva. Sarafka. Smoflric. Kitaigrod. JVerbky. maiofct Sludzicnicza. Zinkow. ProczensLo . Podolia.] P OLA N D. Proczeiißow. Bar, remarkabl e for a Zbaraz. Here the Krajnopol. college of Jefuits. Poles encamped in the Wonhofcze. Chnnelnick. year 1649, and flood Kalns. Here the Tar- Confianthioni'e . out a very clofc liege, tars were defeated in Laticzeiv. being prefied by the 1672. Deraznie. Cofaks and Tartars Kuriloivcze. Mikutincc. Tramblow. Jultokow. Medziboce. Tarnopol. Marianow. Plokyrof. Nickulinczt. Barkow. Czar nc Oflro. Secrncze. Berlinetz. Satanow. lanoiv. yarowzozc. V fiat in. Czartekonv. Mokxlow. Seal a. Czerwonogrod . Czerniowcze . Zicaniec. lajlowice. Flezce. Choro/lonv. Potok. Suliaki, Probozin, Dobraii'odi. Lucczinice. Boroivk. Wiczeniecz or Vifm- Szarigrod. Kribeez. viecz. Mezerof. Grudec . 611 2. The Palatinate of Braclaw, in Latin Palaniinattis Braclavien/is, con- fifts of the Diftrifts oiWinnica and Zwinogrod. In this Palatinate lies Braclaw, a city confiding of two towns, feated on the river Bog. It is the refidence of the Woiewoda or Palatine ; and is alfo called St. Peter's town, its arms being the picture of that Saint. This city was taken from the Cofaks in the year 1654. Winnica is another town on the river Bog. Here is a college of Jefuits ; and a Provincial Diet and Court of Judicature are held in this town. In 1650, the Cofaks were totally routed near this place. In this Palatinate lie alio the following towns Felfztyn. Satnaelhwka. Cbmiehiick. Br allow. Krafna. Copigowka. Muracwa. Tulczin. Lad 1 ein. Kormagrod. Thomafpol. Langrod. Gruska. Bufza. Jaruga. "Jampol. Kowzeniecz. Kamiencza. Raskow. Czaczanic. Nowe Koniecpole. Nowoo;rod. Obedowka. Bahmowka. 4I 2 Bercad. Alexandrow. Trcczeniecz. XJman. Iioangrod. Sokow/owka. Woronowka. Zileke. Sobriek. MoTiajlericz. Grudeek. Kalmk. Babin. 6i2 POLAND. [Kiow. Babin. Lipoive. Poherivicze. Elius. Zibotoia. Sbaraz. Piaczefne. Spictnea. Prtluka&RdKokOnow. V. The Palatinate of K I O Jr. S"\F this Palatinate, which makes part of the Ukraine, and is inhabited by ^-^ the Cofaks, a fuller account has been given in our Defcription of Rißa. In the year 1569, Kiovia v/as annexed to the kingdom of Poland. In 1667, that part of it which lies on the other fide of the Dnieper, together with the Cofaks who were fettled on the premifes, was ceded for ever to Rußa ; which ceflion was ratified, and the city of Kiow entirely given up, in the year 1693. Po/iflj Kiovia, includes the Diftrids of Zytomierz and Owriccz ; in which are the following towns. Krylow, a town leated on the river Tazmin near its influx into the Dnieper. Czehrin, Woronoivka and Smila, fmall towns of little note. Borowicz, a town on the Dneiper, where the Cofaks were belieged by the Poles in 16^8, and were obliged to deliver up their General Paolucco, and four of their principal commanders to the latter. Czyrkaflj, a town with a caftle, fituated on the Dneiper. Korfun, a town on the river Rofs, which was founded by King Stephen about the year 1581. The following little towns alio lie in this province. Bogußahu, Wolodarka. Harmonowka. Mofzna. T'abaroioka. Clnvajiow. Olzanka. Pamohcz. Bialagrodko. Stawiocza. Bialacerkiew. Wyzgrod. Strzybowka. Here the Tartars were Czernobyl. Rokitna. entirely defeated in 162 6. VI. V O L H I N I A, Called in the Polißj language Woly?iien. •HpHIS country is fo fertile as to fupply the inhabitants with a large furplus ■** of grain. Rofemary, afparagus, &c. grow wild in the wood; , which can hardly be diftinguiihed from thofe cultivated in the gardens. Vol- hinia was annexed to Poland in a Diet held at Laiblin in J 569. The Tartars, Volhinia.] POLAND. 613 'Tartars, befides a great booty, carried off" 30,000 perfons out of this coun- try, to be fold as flaves, in the year 16 18. This Palatinate coniifts of the two following Diftricfs. 1. The Diftricl of Krzemienec, in which the places of note are, Krzeminiec, a town on the river Iriva, with a caftle ftanding on a high rock. Here is a Court of Judicature. Wifniowiecz, a town with a caftle, which bears the name of a Dutchy. Bajilia, Kra/ilow, and Conßantinow, are towns lituated on the river S/ucz. Olanow, a fmall town. Berdiczow and Rodnia, two old decayed towns. ZytomierSj a fortrefs. Korczec, Kzwiahel, Oßrozck, Barauoivka, and Miropel are fmall towns on the river S/ucz. Zaßaiv, a town on the river Horin, which, including its territory, bears the name of a Dutchy. The Jefuits have a college here ; and a consider- able Diftricl, which is a royal demefne, belongs to this town. Miedezynzek, a fmall fortified town on the river Horin-, where 'John, the laft Duke of Oßrog, built a handfome convent for Francifian monks, and a church. - Dulmo a fortified town on the river Irwa. 2. The Diftricl of Luck or Luceorien, in which are the following towns. Luck, Luzk, or Luceorien, the capital of Volhinia, ftands on the river Styr or Ster, and has a caftle, where the Bifhop of Volhinia refides, and the Jefuits have a college. This city is alfo the refidence of a Ruffian biihop ; and has a Provincial Diet and Court of Judicature. In the year 1429, a re- markable conference was held here, at which the Emperor Sigifmund, two Kings, and feveral Princes, were preient. In 1752, the greateft part of this city was deftroyed by fire. Wlcdcimirz, a city on the river Bug, is the See of a Ruffian Biihop, who has a very large diocefe. A Court of Juftice is held here ; and the See of Luck was firft erected in this town. Beretsko, a town feated on a fmall river. OUka, a handfome town and caftle belonging to the Radz'rcil family, and the capital of a Dutchy. A fchool and feminary are founded in this town. About one hundred and eleven houfes were confumed by a fire, which happened in 1752. Sokal, a town and fortrefs on the river Bug. This place is remarkable for a celebrated image of the Virgin Mary, for the greater fecurity of which the Bernardine Monks have built a fine church and convent, with iuitable fortifications, on an ifland in the river Bug. In 1 651, the Poles encamped in. this place. ■ Czartorysk, a town with a caftle. 4 The 6i4- P L A N D. The GREAT DUTCHY O F LITHUANIA. §. r. '"j^HIS country, which is called by the natives Litwa, was formerly very -*• woody, and the greatefl part of it lay uncultivated. But by the tran- quillity it enjoyed under Sigifmundl. and his fucceffors, Lithuania was greatly improved by cutting down the woods ; and agriculture was duly encouraged. Great quantities of' pot-alli and wood-alhes are made here ; and the country produces a great deal of buck-wheat and other corn. Here is alfo great plenty of honey, with which are made thofe palatable liquors called Lip- pi iz, Mallinieck, and mead. The meadows and paftures in this province are very fertile, and afford nourifhment to numerous flocks and herds. The fheep yield fleeces of very fine wool. Here are alfo feveral lakes in which are profitable fiiheries. In the forefts of Lithuania are bears, wolves, wild-boars, buffaloes, deer, and prodigious flights of wood-cocks. But notwithstanding the foil is fo fertile, agriculture is extremely negleded, and the fineft fpots of land in the country lie wafte. The luxuriant paftures in the meadows lie negledted till the grafs rots on the ground ; and for want of care, the woods in Lithuania are often confumed by accidental fires. All forts of proviiions are fold at a very low rate ; but cafh is fo fcarce, that ten per cent, is the common intereft for money in this country. §.2. All the common people, excepting the burghers of the royal towns and the Germans, are valfals. The Nobility are very numerous, and for the moft part, indigent and poor; and thofe who are in low circumftances ferve the richer fort as pages, valets, bailiffs, treafurers, ftewards, &c. Thofe noble families who are in a better condition, endeavour to mend their fortunes by farming a large eftate. There is fcarce a nobleman of any tolerable circumftances in Lithuania without a title, which they are all very fond of ; and thefe titles defcend to their children. The principal Nobility are exceeding rich, and have eftates equal to the revenues of feme Princes ; fo that they generally retain fome hundreds of the poor Nobility in ir fcrvice. They are alio inverted with the higheft pofts of the kingdom, aiullive in great pomp and fplendor ; but with fo little ceconomy, that their jCxpences generally exceed their income. §•3- Popery Lithuania.] POLAND. 615 §. 3. Popery is the eftablifhed religion in Lithuania, Here are rJfo many Lutherans, Cahinijls, Jews, Turks and Socinians ; but the Greeks are on a much better footing than any of the other Dijidehtes or diflenters. Notwithstanding this country is fo clofely connected with Poland, it lliil re- tains its own peculiar laws, offices, and troops. §. 4. The ancient hiftory of Lithnaiiia is obfeure and fabulous. It was formerly governed by its own Dukes, who were frequently at war with their neighbours the Poles and Ruffians. Ringold, who lived in the thirteenth century, was the firft who took upon himfelf the title of Great Duke of Lithuania ; and Woljlinik was the laft of the ancient Ducal family. Toward 1 the clofe of the thirteenth century, Vitencs, a Samogitian, was promoted to the dignity of Great Duke. lagcllo, Viteness great grandfon, in order to accomplish his defired marriage with Hedwig the dowager of Lewis King of Poland and Hüngary, who had been crowned Queen of thofe kingdoms, promifed that he and all his fubjedfs would embrace the Christian religion ; that Lithuania mould be united to Poland ; and that he would recover the countries which had been difmembered from the kingdom. Thefe advantageous offers pleafed the Poles fo well, that the Great Duke of Lithuania was invited into the kingdom by a folemn embaffy; and arrived at Cracow in 1386, where he was baptifed by the name of Uladißaus ; and, after he had efpoufed the Queen, was advanced to the throne. In the following year, he made a progrefs into Lithuania, where he abolifhed the old fuperitltious rites and cuftoms ; prevailed on many thoufands to embrace Chriftianity ; founded the episcopal See of Fz'/z/tf ; and fettled the ecclefiaftical ceremonies and disci- pline. In the year 1392, Iagello,' created his coufin Alexander, or Vit old, Great Duke of Lithuania ; but without prejudice to the union with the kingdom of Poland; the fovereignty or lupreme authority being lodged in the Kino-, In 1 40 1, the union of Lithuania with Poland was ratified in the Diet of Vilna by a formal Inftrument. In 1408, the Great Duke took Samogitia from the Knig/hts of the Teutonic Order. In 141 3, in a Diet held at Hrodlo, the Lithuanians were placed on an equality with the Poles, with regard to public employments, and the pro- tection of the laws ; and feveral Lithuanian families were registered amon» the Polijh Nobility, and their arms were quartered together. It was alfo enacted that the Great Duke of Lithuania fliould be nominated by the Kino- of Poland ; and that if the King fhould die without ifiue or rightful heir, the Lithuanians fliould have the privilege of voting at the election of the new King. Chriftianity was alfo introduced into Samogitia, where a Bifhop's See was founded and other inferior eccleliaftical offices. In the year 1499, the union, concluded with the Lithuanians in 74 13, was renewed with this additional claufe, That the Lithuanians Should not eled a Great Duke without the previous knowledge of the Poles ; and that 6i6 POLAND. [Lithuania. that the latter fliould not choofe a King without the concurrence of the Lithuanians. In i 56 1, the Eiififerl, or Sword-bearing Knights, fubmitted themfelves, and the part of Livonia which ftill remained in their polTeffion, to die King of Poland, as Great Duke of Lithuania; and the new Duke of Courland held it as a Lithuanian fief. In a Diet held at Lublin in the year 1569, it was agreed between the Poles and Lithuanians, That the Great Dutchy of Lithuania and Kingdom of Poland ihould be for the future lb united, as to form but one State under one Prince ; that the Sovereign fliould be elected in Poland by both nations ; that the general Diet ihould be always held at Warfaw ; that the two nations ihould have a Senate or Council, and a houfe of provincial repre- fentatives, in common ; that the coin in the Kingdom and Dutchy fliould be of the fame value ; and that they fliould be equally concerned in treaties, alliances, &c. It was alio further enacted, that the Lithuanian State-coun- fellors and noble Representatives ihould have a feat among the States of Poland; and at the fame time Livonia, which, hitherto, Lithuania claimed as its diffcintt property, fliould be entirely united to the Kingdom. By the Afts of 1673, 1677, and 1685, it was decreed, that every third general Diet ihould be held at Grodno in Lithuania, except the Diets of the Convocation, Eledion, and Coronation. In the vear 1 697, the Polijh and Lithuanian laws were reduced to a conformity with each odier. §. 5. Lithuania is, at prefent, divided into nine Palatinates, which, accord- in!; to precedency, are in the following order, viz. Wilna, Trock, Polocz, Novogrodeck, Witepjk, Brzesk, Mfczi/laiv, Minsk, and Livonia. The Palatinates of Wilna and Trock conftitute proper Lithuaitia, called by the Poles Litiva Sama, and the fix following make Lithuanian RuJ/ia, or Riis Litewska. The latter is fubdivided into 1 . White Ru//ia, or Rus Biala, including the Palatinates of Polock, Wi- tfpsk, Mfcißaw, and Minsk. 2. Black Ruffia, or RusCzama, which includes the Palatinate of Novo- grodeck, and the Diftricls of Rzeczyki and Mozyrski. 3. Polcjßa, or Polcfic, to which the Palatinate of Brzeskie belongs. Befides thefe Palatinates, Lithuania alio includes the Principality of Sa- mogitia, called in the Polijh language Z?nuydz, or Xieflwo Zmudskie ; and the Dutchv of Courland which is a fief of Poland. Every Palatinate is divided into Powiats or Diftrids ; and a parcel of land is always referved as the proper Palatinate, which generally lies about the principal town. There are alio particular Principalities, governed by their own Princes, in Lithuania; as Slack, Niehvicz, 6cc. In delcribing this country we ihall in with I. LITHU- POLAND. 617 I. LIT HU A N I A properly fo called, In Polifh Ltiwa Jama. / T"" S HIS country includes the Palatinates of Wilno and Trockie. -*• The Palatinate of Wilno, called in the Polijh language fVoiewodzt'jeo Wilenskie, and in Latin Palatinatus Vtlnenjis, contains the following Diftricls. 1. The Palatine- Diftricl, in which lies Vilna, Wilda, or IVilno, the capital of the Great Dutchy of Lithuania, which ftands on the river Wilia near the influx of the Wilika. This citv lies in a mountainous country on feveral little eminences : It is very large, and has two confiderable iuburbs called Antokolla and Rudaifzka. In the old ruinous royal palace is the arfenal and the hall where the Court of Juftice is held ; and over againft it is the magnificent church belonging to the caftle, which was built in the year 1386. The treaiury belonging to this church is very rich ; and it is alio remarkable for the elegant marble chapel of St. Cafimir, whole lilver lhrine is laid to weigh thirty quintals. There are upwards of forty churches in this city, and among thefe are, one Lutheran and one Calvinifts church, a Jewifh fynagogue, a Tartarian church, and a Greek church ; but all the reft are Popifh churches. Not to mention the devaluations which Wilna formerly fuffered from the Ruffians in 16 10 and 1655, and from fire in the year 1737; it was deftroyed by a dreadful conflagration in 1748, when thirteen churches, the yewijh fynagogue, twenty-five palaces, four hundred and fixty-nine ftone edifices confuting of private houfes, hoipitals, inns, baths, convents, and mills, with one hundred and forty-fix tradelmens fliops and difpenfaries, befides a great number of granaries and warehoufes, were con fumed to allies. In 1749, another fire happened by lightning, which confumed hx churches, the council-houfe, eight palaces, and two hundred and feventy- feven other ftone-buildings. The chapel of St. Cafimir was alfo burnt, and the lofs fuftained by the deftruction of this edifice only amounted to fome millions. The churches have been fince rebuilt at a very great ex- pence, and fome of them in a more elegant manner than before ; but the city has not recovered its former grandeur. This Bifhop's See was founded in the year 1387 ; and the Chapter con- fifts of a great number of (ecular and regular clergy. The Univerfity, founded in 1570 by Bifhop Valerian Szufioivjki , and confirmed by King Stephen in 1579, is in the Jefuits college. Vol.?" 4 K The 618 POLAND. [Lithuania. The Tribunal, or High Court of Judicature, which is held here, begins in the fecond week after Eaßer, and continues fitting for twenty weeks ; after which the Judges proceed to Novogrodeck or Minfi. Beiides this Tribunal, a Provincial Diet and Court of JuftLe are held n this city. The magiftrates of Wilna were, by a particular privilege granted them by King Sigifmund Augußtcs, created noble in the year 1568; fo that their children may purchafe and enjoy eftates. As there are great numbers of Jews and Mahometans in this city, three different Sabbaths are obferved every week. The inhabitants carry on a confiderable trade, and fend their commodities as far as Konigfierg. Wilna was built by the Great Duke Gedimin in the year 1305. The following towns alfo lie in this DiftricT:. Dubinkij a town belonging to Prince Radzivil. Rudniki, a fmall town with a beautiful cattle. 2. Poiviat Lidzki, or the Diftrid of Li da, in which are, Li da, a town and cattle, where a Provincial Diet and a Court of Ju- dicature are held. Bielica, a fmall town on the river Niemen. Sczucyn, Je/na, Bialgorod, Zermony, Blot no > and Gieranony, are fmall places of little note. 3. Powiat Ofzmianjki, or the DiftricT of Ofmiana, in which lies Ofzmiana, the chief town, where a Provincial Diet and Court of Judi- cature are held. Olfiany, Sitrivilifzki, Dorv, Dolhinoiv, Sericecz, Zodziski, Smorgonie, Mi- edzial, and Hlybokie or Glebokie, are fmall places in this Diftrict. 4. Poiviat Bra/laivski, or the DiftricT of Braßaiv, in which lies Braßaiv, the capital. It is a large town and is fituated near a lake. Here is a Greek abbey ; and a Provincial Diet is held in this town. Jeziorofzce, Dnfiviaty, Polikany, Daugelifzki, and Koltyniany, are alfo fmall places in this DiftricT:. 5. Poiviat Wilkomirski, or the DiftricT: of Wilkomierz, in which lies The town of Wilkomierz, on the river Sifienta, where a Provincial Diet and Court of Judicature are held. The Palatinate of Trockie, or Woiewodztwo Trokie, in Latin Palatinatus Trocenßs, includes the following Diftrids. 1. The Palatine territory, which contains the following towns, &c. Trocki, a large town fituated among lakes, and built with wood. It has two caftles ; and in the parifh-church is a famous image of the Virgin Mary. A Provincial Diet and Court of Judicature are held here. This town was built by the Great Duke Gedimin in the year 1321. It was deftroyed by fire in 1390, and demolifhed by the Rußians in 1655. It was formerly the refidence of the Dukes of Ljthuania ) who, afterwards, removed their feat to Wilna. 2 Poprcie, Lithuania.] POLAND. 619 Poporcie, Olita, a royal demefne, Przeroß, and Wifchiten, are fmall places of little note. Calvarie, a little town, lies in a foreft on the river Szeßupe, about five German miles from the Pruffian frontiers. The inhabitants confift of one hundred and twenty Chriitian, and three hundred Jewißj families ; and the latter carry on an exteniive trade. This town belongs to the Sapiehan family, who are alio proprietors of the Lordlhip of Kirfna, which lies about three German miles from it. 2. Poiaiat Vpitjki, or the DiftricT of Upitski, in which lie Birze, a town belonging to the Prince of Radzivil. It was taken in 1625 by King Gujlavus Adolphus. Salaty, Pokroje, Ponienumy, and Poniewicz, are fmall places, in the lad of which a Diet is held. 3. Powiat Kowienski, or the DiftricT of Kowno, which contains Kowno or Gauen, a pretty trading town, fituated at the influx of the river Wilia into the Nienien. It is famous for its excellent liquor called Lippitz, and mead. There are feveral German inhabitants in this town, which has a college of Jefuits with an elegant church, belides ten Popifh churches, and one Lutheran. Pozoyfcie, a fmall place of little note. A hill called Friedenfberg lies about a German mile and a half from Kowno, in a wood near the Wilia. On this hill ftands a famous convent inhabited by twenty-four Eremitical monks of the Order of Camaldoli. It was founded in 1674, by Chrifiopher Paz, Great Chancellor of Lithuania, and coil eight 'Tons of Gold* : It has abundance of marble ornaments. The deling and cupola of the church are finely painted in frefco, and the walls are adorned with original pieces by the raoft celebrated mailers. A DiftricT confifting of three hundred peafants dwellings belongs to tKis convent. The founder and his wife lie buried in the church. 4. Powiat Grodzienski, or the DiftricT: of Grodno, in which are the fol- lowing places of note. Grodno, a handfome large city, and, next to Wilna, the beft in Lithuania. It ftands on the river Niemen, partly on an eminence, and partly on a level, and is furrounded with hüls. The old caftle, which is furrounded with a deep moat, is now fallen to decay ; lb that only one wing of it is inhabited. The new palace, built by the prefent King of Poland, is a large, regular, and beautiful ftrucTure confifting of two ftories. The °reat hall, the Senatc-houfe, and the chapel, are the fineft apartments in th's palace. In the court ftands the Chancery . or State-office, an elegant edifice. In the town are nine Popifh and two Greek churches, and a * A Ton of Gold, improperly fo called, to which the Author fometimes zAA% filver money by way of diftimftion, is nearly equal to 7775 pounds fterling: However, a Ton of Gold, jfilver money, is a kind of Hlbernijm. See p. 260. 4 K 2 fyna- 620 POLAND. [Lith. Ruffia. fynagogue for the Jews, which is built with (tone. The Jefuits college in this city has a fplendid church ; and that belonging to the Carmelite nuns is alio very magnificent. The palace of Prince Radzivil is a very large ftructure and that of the Sapiehan family is a fuperb edifice. Both of them ftand on the market-place, which, together with the Caßle-Street and the area before the palace, are very clean and well paved ; but the other ftreets are not paved, on which account they are generally very dirty. In the year 1673, it was enacted, That every third general Diet mould be held here for the future. During the Seflion of the Diet, four apart- ments, and the ftables adjoining to them, in a certain part of the town, have been let for two hundred and iixty ducats a month. A Provincial Diet and Court of Judicature are alio held in this city. Near Grodno lies a well-built royal manor-houfe. In the year 1753, almoft the whole town was confumed by fire. Merecz, a royal little town, which ftands on a river of the fame name. King Uladißaus IV '. was fo taken with the delightful fituation of this town, as to make it his favourite refidence. That Prince ended his days in this place on the twentieth of May 1648. Merecz has a wooden caftle, and three churches. Doujpouda, Wafilkow, and Grodek, are fmall places of little note. Supraß, a very opulent convent of Greek monks of the Order of St. Bafil. It is a place of great antiquity, and is much frequented by pilgrims on account of fome pretended miracles wrought here. This convent is im- mediately fubjecl to the Pope *. II. LIT HUAN I AN RUSSIA, THIS country confifts of the following Provinces. I. Polesia, orPoLESiE, which is alio called the Palatinate of Brzeskie, in Polifh Woiewodzfwo Brefcianskie, and in Latin Palatinatia Brefcienßs. The morafies in this Palatinate are very large, and, according to M. Adlerfeld, appear like fo many extenfive lakes. This Palatinate in- cludes two Diftritts, namely, thofe of Brzesk and Pinski. 1 . The Territory of Brzejk, which contains the following towns, &c. Brzesk, a ftrong town but not very large, with a caftle built on a rock. The town ftands on the river Bug, in a marfliy fituation ; and near it is a royal palace with a good garden. There is a famous Jewiß fynagogue in this town, to which the Jews refort from all the countries of Europe, both on account of ftudy, and preferment among their own people. A Greek Biihop refides, and a Provincial Diet is held in this town. * It fecms a little ftrange that monks of the Greek or Rußan church (hould be fubjecl to Lith. Ruffia.] POLAND. 62 Bialla, a fmall town belonging to Prince Radzivil, remarkable for its Gymnajium or Seminary. Wifokie, Kaminiec, Kerezew, Janow, Miedzyrzecze, Rofofze, Dukudow, Slawaticze, Koden, Rat no, Kobryn, Bereza (where the Carthufians have a convent) Chomsk, Motol, and Zukowicze, are fmall places of little note. Ibras, a fmall fortrefs almoit furrounded with a lake and morafs ; to which there is but one avenue. 2. Poioiat Pinski, or the DiftricT: of Pinski, in which lies Pinsk, a handlbm, large, trading town on the river Pina, which belongs to the royal Table-eftates, as they are called. It lies in the middle of extenlive moraffes ; and is inhabited not only by Jews, who have a fchool here, but alfo by people of all religions ; efpecially by thofe of the Greek religion, who have a Bifhop here. The leather dreffed in this town after the RuJJian manner is looked upon as the beft in the whole kingdom. A Provincial Diet is held here. Wyhoniec, Pohoß, Lahifzyn, Kozangrodek, Wielicze, Turow, Dawidow, Wyfok, Dubrowica, Rohitno y Olewfeo, and Zablcwicze, are fmall places in this DiftricT. II. Black Russia, called by the Poles Rus Czarna, includes The Palatinate of Nowogrodeck, in Polifh Woiewodzlwo Nowogrodskie, which contains the following Diftricts. 1 . The Territory of Nvwogrodek, in which the places of note are, Nowogrodek, a town fituated on a hill. It is not very large ; but includes feveral Popifh and Riiffian convents, with a college of Jefuits. Befides a Provincial Diet and inferior Court of Judicature, a High Tribunal, after the model of that of Wilna, is held alternately here and at Minsk, which continues fitting for five months every year. This town was demolilhed in 1314, and 1390. Niefiviez, a town and feat belonging to the Radzivil-famWy, which is alfo the capital of a Dutchy. It ftands on the river UJ'za, and has a college of Jefuits, This beautiful palace was demolilhed by the Swedes in 1706. Mir, a caftle from which Prince Radzivil has one of his titles. Naliboki, Stoupce, Sivierzno, Turzec, Lubcz, Koralicze, Sithit, Cyrvn, If- koldz, Kleck, Darew, Slwohwicze, Myfz (with a county,) Polonka, and Lipsk, are fmall towns in this DiftricT:. Lukowicze, a fortified town with a county. Near this place the Cofaks and Ruffians were defeated in 1660. This town was taken and deftroyed by the Swedes in the year 1706. 2. Powiat Wolkowyski, or the Diftrict of Wolkowysk, in which are, Wolkowysk, a fmall town, where a Provincial Diet is held ; Mfciboav y Porozow, and Nowidwor, which are inconliderable places. 3. Powiat S/oninski, or the DiftricT: of Slonim, in which lies Slonim, a town feated on the river Sczara, where a Provincial Diet, and the general affembly of the States of Lithuania are held. Bytyn, 622 POLAND. [Lith.Ruffla. Bxtvfi, Zyrcwice, Lyskow, Koffbw, Zekia, and Moßy* are fmall places in this Diftri£t. Kozana is the chief feat of the Sapiehan family, and is much frequented on account of a famous image of the Virgin Mary. 4. Xiejlwo Sluckie, or the Dutchy of Sluckia, in Latin Ducatus Slucenßs, belongs to Prince Radzivil, and in it lies Stuck, a laro-e town built with timber. It has three caftles, and ftands on the river Slucz. Romanowo, Hrozow, Kopyl (with a Dutchy,) Cimkowicze, Kyewicze, Sie*, miezow, Luban, Wielczyny, and Pctrikow, are fmall places of little note in this Diftrict. Mozyrski and Rzeczyki Powiat belong indeed to Black Rußia, but are included in the Palatinate of Minski. III. White Russia, called in the Polißo language Rus Biala, and in Latin Rußa alba. This Province contains the following Palatinates. The Palatinate of Minsky, in Poliih Woiewodztwo Minskie. and in Latin Palatinatus Minfcenßs, which includes 1 . The Territory of Minsk. In this Diftricl lies Minsk, a town feated on the river Swißocz with two caftles. There are feveral jews among its inhabitants ; and a Provincial Diet is held here, be- fides a High-Tribunal once in two years. [See Wilna and Novogrodeck.] This town was taken by the Ruffians in 1656. "The following are fmall towns in this Diftrict, viz. Horodek, Horodyfzcz, Oczyce, Berezvna, Bobnfzowicze t Brodziec, Dokfzycc, Koydanow, Lubafzyn, Radziwilow, Hrebnia, Swißocz, Boryfiw, Szack, Sloboda krolowska. Zabyn, Dukora, 2. Powiat Kzcczyki or the DiftricT: of Kzeczy, contains the following fmall towns ; viz. Bobruysk, Hlusko Ditbrywickie, Horwal, Rzeczyca, and Chelmicz. 3. Powiat Mozyrski, or the Diftrict of Mozyr, in which are, Mozyr, the chief town on the river Prypec, where a Provincial Diet is held ; and Kimborowka, Babica Sloboda, and Kuzmilock, which are fmall places of little note. 4. The Territory of Rohaczow, or Ziemia Rohaczoioska, in which lie Rohaczow, a town which ftands on the river Dnieper near the influx of the Druce, where a Provincial Diet is held ; and Jurzcc, Pobolowo, Czeczcrsk, HamUa, and Hicroni/now, which are fmall places. The v Lith. Ruflia.] POLAND. 623 The Palatinate of Mscislaw, called in the Polijh language Woiewodz- two Mfcißawfiie, and in Latin Palatinatus Mifeißaviehßs, in which are the- following remarkable places. M/hßaw, a well built frontier town, which was befieged by the Duke of Smolensk in 1386 ; but without fuccefs. A Provincial Diet is held here. Mohilow, a handlbm commercial town on the river Dneiper, where the Ruffians carry on a confiderable trade. Prince Uladißaus, fon to SigtP mundlV. in 16 16, drew together an army of Poles in this town, and pene- trated into Rußa. In the year 1654, Mohilow was taken by the Ruffians ; and though the Poles fät before it in 1660, they were obliged to raile the fieo-e and retire. However, it was taken from the Ruffians in 1662 by the inha- bitants, who lent off part of the garrifon by ftratagem, and made the reft prilbners of war. Between Czaufy and Szyfzowo, in this Palatinate, the Ruffians were entirely defeated in the year 15 14. Horki, Czaufy, Dryffin, Cbwafzczowka, Wrdkalahow nowy and Wrakalow ßary on the Nieper, By chaw nowy and Bychow ßary, Propoysk and Rad- ziwilowa, are fmall places in this Palatinate. The Palatinate of Witepsk, called by the Poles Woiewodztwo Witepskie and in Latin Palatinatus Vitepcenfis contains two Diftridts ; namely, 1 . The Territory ,of Witepsk, in which are the following remarkable places. Witepsk, a fortified trading town on the river Duna or Duma, which has two ftrong caftles and a college of Jefuits. A Provincial Diet is held in this town. It was taken by the Rußians in the year 1654. Newel, a fortified town, which was taken by the Rußians in 16 C3 ; but fell again into the hands of the Poles in 1678. Ufwiatez, a fortified town fituated on a lake, which was taken from the Poles in the year 1580. Wielifz, a fmall fortified town on the river Dzwina, of which the Poles made themlelves mailers in 1580. The Ruffians, who had taken this town from the Poles, reftored it to the latter in 1580. Ozieryzcfze, Gorczffiaw, Surcz, Markowo, and Ojlrowo, are fmall towns in this territory. 2. Powiat Orfzanjkt, or the Diftric! of Orfza, which contains the fol- lowing towns, &c. Orfza, a town and caftle on the river Nieper, in which is a Jefuits col- lege. Alfo a Provincial Diet is held here. Dubrowna and Kopys are fmall towns on the Nieper-, the latter i a Dutchy. Szklow a ftrong town, and a County, on the banks of the Neiper, near which the Lithuanian General Radzivil was defeated by the Rußians in 1653 ; but when they laid liege to the town, they were obliged to raile it with a confiderable lofs. Holowczyn, 62 4 POLAND. [Lith. Ruffia. Holowczyn, a fmall place, where the Ruffians were defeated by the Swedes in 1708, after an obftinate engagement. Radzyn, Bialymfie, and Kruhla are fmall towns in this DiftricT:. Note. That part of the Palatinate of Snwlenß, which borders on this Powiat or DiftricT:, and belongs to the Poles, confifts only of the DiftricT: of Sta- dorubcz. ; and the Diet for this Diftrict is held at Wtlna. The Palatinate of Polock, or Woiewodztxvo Polokie, in Latin Palatinatus Pohcenfis, contains th« following towns. Polock, a fortified town on the river Dzwina, with two ftrong caftles. It carries on a confiderable trade ; and a Provincial Diet and Court of Judi- cature are held here. The Jefuits have a college, and the Greeks an aca- demy for the ftudy of philofophy, in this town. A Popilh Greek Bilbop alio refides here. In the year 1563, Polock was taken by the Ruffians ; but retaken by the Poles in 1579. Krafne and Kojhrny, two fmall towns. Via, a fortreis on the river Dzwina. Near this place the Ruffians were defeated in 1564. Wiazyfzeze and Boczeykowo, two fmall towns of little note. Czafzniki, a fmall town, where the Ruffians were defeated in the year 1 567. Lepel, Lukomla, Krasnyßaw, Czereia, Pvfene, Waron, Sufza, Kamien, JCublicze, Sielizeze, JJJzacz, "Turowla, Bobynicze, Plifzan, Machirowo, Dzefna, Dryffd, Sokol, and Niefzczer da, are fmall towns in this Palatinate, of which mention is made in hiftory. III. The LIVONIAN Palatinate, Called in the Poliffj language WOIEWODZTWO INFLA NTSKIE. "^HIS country, which is a part of Livonia, is' alfo called the Palatinate of Wend. When the Poles by t the treaty of Oliv a delivered up Livo- nia to Sweden, they referved this part, which had been fubjecl to Poland fmce the year 1655. There are a Bifhop, a Palatine, and a Caftellan in this Palatinate ; which belongs to Poland and Lithuania, and fends fix deputies to the general Diet. The principal places in this country are, Marienhaws. Roßten. Krentzburg. Ludzen. Duneberg. The Provincial Diet, and Court of Judicature, from which an appeal lii only to the Ajfejjhrial Tribunal, are held at Duneburg. 4 IV. SAMO- POLAND. 625 IV. SAMOGITIA or SAMOTTEN, Called in the Polißj language ZMUTDS or XIESTIVO ZMUDSKIE. f 1 A HIS country is a Dutchy, which anciently belonged to Lithuania, -*- and together with that province, was governed either by one Duke or Sovereign, or formed an oligarchy. In the year 1404, Samogitia was ceded to the Knights of the Teutonic Order ; but about four years afterwards, it was taken from them. In 141 1, the Knights had a promife that this Dutchy fliould again revert to the Order after the death of King Uladißaus Iagello, and the Great Duke Alexander. In 14 13, the Samogitians em- braced the Chriftian religion; and a Bifhops See, and other fmall ecclefiaf- tical offices were eredted in this Dutchy. The country is woody, and has many fertile fpots : It alfo yields a prodigious quantity of honey. Samogitia has a Bifhop, an Upper-ßaroßa, who has the authority of a Woienaoda or Palatine ; and a Caflellan who fits in the General Diet, and has the power of appointing Provincial Diets at pleafure. In this Dutchy lies Wornie or Miedniki, a town where the Bifhop of Samogitia refides ; and Roßenie, a town on the river Dubißa, where the Provincial Diet and Court of Judicature are held. The following fmall towns alfo lie in Samogitia, viz. Novavola. Wileia. Srzednik. Wie ion a. Kicydany. Jurborg or Georgen- burg. Widukle. Szydlow. Taurogi. Pottagien. Garden. Uzwieda. Shoden. Koltyniany. Kroze, in which is a Lukinga. Ambote. college of Jefuits. Piatek. Szaivle. Kurfzany. Okmianv. • Plotele. Po langen. Kretynga. Korczany Gorzdy. Vol. I. 4L THE [ 626 ] THE DUTCHY of PRUSSIA*, Which is alio called POLISH PRUSSIA. §. I. /■"I"* HIS country borders on the kingdom of Prujfia, Poland, Pome- rani a, and the Wejfel or Viflula ; and is thirteen German miles in length, and twelve in its greateft breadth ; but in fome places the latter does not exceed four German miles and a half. The face of this country is di- verfified with mountains, woods, and lakes ; but in the fouth part of it there is but little paflure ground, and confequently but few cattle ; and not much arable land, if we except the four fruitful Werder, as they are called, near Dantzick. The nlheries are of great advantage to this country; which alfo yields a vaft quantity of honey and wax. The woods abound with wild boars, roe-bucks, and wild fowl. A good deal of lime is alio burnt in fome parts of this country. The moft remarkable heaths in Poltß Prujjia are thofe of Skat, Mafura and Nicholait, and the defert of Johannesberg, which is leven German miles in length, and four in breadth. §.2. The inhabitants confift partly of Poles, and partly of Germans. As to their religion, the Reformation was introduced here early in the lixteenth century ; and in few years, the profeflbrs of the Evangelical or Lutheran religion increafed to fuch a degree, that in a fhort time their num- ber far exceeded that of the Papifts in the principal cities and towns. They had almoft as great a fuperiority alfo in the fmaller towns and villages. But in this particular, fucceeding times have introduced confiderable alterations. The Kings of Poland have, indeed, granted the inhabitants the free exer- * This country is termed Regal Prujfia, or Pruffia Royal, in the maps, to diftinguifh it from Ducal Prujjia, which is now a kingdom and belongs to his Prujpan Majefty. cife Polißi Pruffia.] POLAND. 627 cife of the Lutheran religion in the cities of Pruffia ; but, at prefent there are but few towns in which the Lutherans have churches ; and in other towns they have been compelled to give them up to the Papifts. Befides, the Proteftants, or Diffident es, as they are called, are continually opprefTed; and promiies of preferment and other means are employed with too much fuccefs, in order to feduce the P ruffian Nobility from the Evangelical or Lutheran church. The Arians are not allowed the free exercife of their religion in this country. §. 3. The Dutchy of Pruffia or Polijh Pruffia is a proper, and diftincl political body or ftate, which has nothing in common with Poland, except that it has the fame Sovereign, and is connected with that Crown by a perpetual alliance. For when the inhabitants of this country put themlelves under the protection of King Cafimir IV. in 1466, it was exprefly ftipulated, that the Dutchy of Pruffia mould have nothing to do with the Republic of Pola?id : but that the King fhould alone, andperibnally, order and determine all matters relating to the former ; and to this end lhould often come among them and lummon general Diets. Hence this free State enjoys the fame right as Poland and Lithuania of voting at the election of a King ; who, after hi^ coronation, is obliged to fwear that he will maintain the Pruffians in their rites and privileges ; after which, and not before, homage is paid to the new Sovereign. The King, in matters of public concern, can determine nothing without the concurrence of the States ; who are divided into Spiritual and Temporal Members, and the latter confift of Nobles and Burghers. Of thefe the Senate, or Council of State, is at prefent, compofed. This Council confifts 1 . Of two Bishops, namely the Bifhop of Ermland and the Bifhop of Culm. The Bifhop of Ermland \s the prefident and chief among the Nobility ; and is not under any fubordination to the Archbifhop of Gnejha, but holds imme- diately of the Pope. His diocefe, in which he has the fupreme authority in all caufes, as well civil as eccleiiaftical, is of a very large extent. The re- venues of it are divided into three parts, one of which belongs to the Chapter ; but the other two, which are computed at 64,000 dollars are aligned for the epifcopal table. The King nominates four canons, one of whom is to be elected Bifhop by the Chapter; and the latter always choole the perfon who is rnofc ftrongly recommended by his Majeliy. The oath which the Bifhop takes is lbmething lingular, as is the form of adminiitering it, which is done at the cathedral of Marienburg. He ftiles himfelf Prince of the holy Roman Empire, not only in public inflruments, but alfo in pri- vate letters, by virtue of the dignity conferred on Bifhop "John II. by the Emperor Charles IV. v/ho created that prelate a Prince of the Empire; and accordingly his fucceflbrs aflume the title of Highnefs ; but they are never addrefTed fo by the Royal Chancery or State offices. This Prelate alio ftiles himfelf Bifhop of Sammland; for that place was annexed to the Diocefe 4 L 2 formerly 6 2 8 POLAND. [Polifli Pruffia. formally erected in Brandenburg Pri/ßa, and the Popifh churches in it are frill fubject to this Bifhop in ecclefiaftical matters. This title, however, is not given him by the Electoral houfe of Brandenburg. The Biihop of Culm's Diocefe is not near fo extenfive, and conlequently t'ie revenue c fit is very much fhort ofthat of the Bifhop of Ermknd. This Bifhopric the King abfolutely difpofes of without calling a Chapter ; and the Bifhop of Culm is a fuiiragan to the Archbifhop of Gnefna, whom he is to look upon as his Metropolitan. This Prelate ftiles himfelf Bifhop of Pomejhn, partly becaufe fome Diflricfs formerly belonging to the Diocefe of Pomefan were, by the peace concluded in 1466, ceded to Poland, and the fpiritual jurifdicfion of them ailigned to the Biihop of Culm ; and partly to keep up the remembrance of the Bifhopric of Pomefan in Brandenburg Prußa, which has been long fince iuppreiied. The JVoiewodtzioos or Palatinates of Culm and Marienburg are under the Biihop of Culm's jurildclion. Bv the Polijl laws, this Prelate is qualified to be Chancellor. 2. Three Palatinates or Woicnzxdes, who are of equal dignity to thofe of Poland, the firft of thefe is the Palatine of Culm, the fecond that of Marienburg, and the third the Palatine of Pomerellia. The only dif- ference, between thsfe Palatines and thofe of Poland, is that a certain Sta- rofly is always annexed to their poff. ; for inifance, the Staroßy of Kowalevo belongs to the Palatinate of Culm, that of Chriflburg to the Palatinate of Ma- rienburs, and that of Schoneck to the Palatinate of Pomerellia. From thefe Staroflies, and the fees of the Grcds, or courts, their income arifes. They hold their Courts of Judicature, which are called Caftle-Courts, and in the Poli/lj language Grods. In the Palatinate of Culm the Court is held at Ko- nvalevo ; in that of Marienburg at Chrifihurg ; and in the Palatinate of Pome- rellia at Schonek. They generally leave the management of thefe courts to the under Wciewoda's. However, they fee the fentences paffed by the courts put in execution, and when it is neceffary, make ufe of force ; and in fuch cafes may fummon the Nobility in their refpective jurifdiöions to affift them. 3. Three Castellans, who are not inverted with any particular office or employment; but on a general fummons of the Nobility, they may be looked upon as the Palatine's lieutenants. They are fubordinate to the great Poliflj Caftellans ; and their appointments accrue from the Starojiies, over which they alfo prefide. 4. Three Vice-Treasurers, who have only a bare title ; however, as they are Counfellors of State, they take place of the reft of the Nobility. Thefe are not members of the Polijh Senate ; but appear only as provincial reprefentatives in the Diet. 5. TwoCounsellors from each of the three Great Cities, as they are called, namely, Thorn, Elbing, and Dantxick ; and every one of thefe reprefen- tatives have a vote. Formerly (even Great Cities had this privilege. Of thefe Members the Senate, or Council of State, is compofed. All the State Counfellors, according to the laws of the country, ought to be native Prußiam-, Polifli Pruffia.] POLAND. 629 P ruffians \ but they feldom have this qualification. They are nominated by the King of Poland, and take a particular oath at their admiifion. The Bifhops, Palatines, and Caftellans, are alio members of the Senate of the kingdom of Poland-, and particular feats were fet apart for them in that Senate in the year 1569. They are alfo qualified to fill the Crown-offices or pofts at Court. The Bifhop of Ermland fits as prefident in the Pri/ßian Diet ; but in his abfence, his place is fupplied by the principal perfon amono- the Nobility that are prefent. Thefe members are {tiled ' the two States of the Dutchy ofPrüßa,' and likewife Royal Counfellors. They may be alfo called the Superior-States to diftinguifh them from the Inferior-States compofed of the lower Nobility and the deputies of the fmall towns. Thofe Noble- men that hold of the Biihop of Ermland are not reckoned among the States ; but the reft fend their reprefentatives to the General Diet. The fmall towns alfo formerly fent reprefentatives to the Prufjian Diet ; but the Nobility have deprived them of that privilege, by forcibly excluding them from the public deliberations. King Cafimir IV. engaged, for himfelf and fucceflbrs, not to deliberate on, or determine any affair of confequence relating to this country, without the previous concurrence of the above-mentioned States of Prnßa. By thefe Affairs of Confequence were underftood the Regalia, as they are called, or matters relating to the Royal Prerogatives, and thofe public acts, which the King, when occafion requires, refolves upon in conjunction with the States ; as declaring war, impofing taxes, concluding a peace, making laws, &c. To this end, the Prußan Diets were introduced, which, formerly had no connection with the Polijh Diets. But in the year 1569, by the ordi- nance of Lublin, part of the Senate or Council of Prußa was united with the Senate of Poland ; and the States of the former were compelled to appear at the general Diet of the kingdom. From that time, the politi- cal conflitution of Pruffia has undergone great alterations : However, it is not quite interwoven with that of Poland, and this country ftill enjoys its particular rights and privileges. §.4. Having treated of the States of Poliß Pruffia, we now proceed to give a fhort account of the Diets of" this country. Thefe were formerly of two kinds ; namely the Ordinary and Extraordinary Diets. The for- mer have been difcontinued lor thefe laft hundred years and above ; but the latter are ftill in being and are fummoned by the King; who alfo appoints the time and place of their meeting. As for the place, they are always held alternately at Marienburg and Graudenz. ■ At the fummoning of the Pruffian General Diet *, the King alfo fpeci- fies the time for holding the leffer Diets, where the reprefentatives for the * I have added the word Prußicm to diflinguifh this from the General Diet held for the whole Poliß Dominions. former 630 POLAND. [Polifli Pruffia. former are chofen, and receive their inftructions. Thefe provincial Diets are held m every Palatinate ; viz. in that of* Culm at Schonfee ; in that of Manenburg at Stum ; and in the Palatinate of Pomercllia at Stargard. But before the Diet for the Palatinate of PomereHia meets at Stargard, the Dis- tricts of Dirfchau, (which includes that of Dantzick,) Schwetz, Tuche/, Scblochau, Mirchau, and Putzig, hold their refpective affemblies. The happy conclufion of thefe inferior Diets is a prefage of the profperous iffue of the general Diet. But if only one of thefe affemblies rifes abruptly, the general Diet is feldom expected to aifembie. The number of reprefentatives for every Palatinate is not fixed ; but they have of late been more nume- rous than heretofore. PomereHia generally fends the greateft number of reprefentatives, and Mariertburg the feweft. The inftructions which are given them are written in the Polißo language; and during the feffion of the Diet, their expences are defrayed. The reprefentatives of the Palatinates, and the King's Commiffioner, are obliged to attend at the opening of the Prujfian General Diet ; but the prefence of the State Counleliors and the reprefentatives of the large cities is not requiiite. The Diet is generally held in the Town-houfe, and fometimes in the church, or fome other convenient place. It does not always continue fitting till its proper period ; but, on the contrary, is often diffolved, or prorogued. The Inftruments, &c. publifhed in the name of all the States of the country are rendered into Latin by the Secretaries of Thorn, according to the fenfe of the States affembled ; and, at the clofe of the Diet, are publicly read, and fealed with the fealof the Dutchy. All documents, and decrees brought to the Diet, or publifhed bvit, are depofited in the archives of the State at Thorn. The Prußan Diets are divided into Conventus Ant e-Comiti ales and Conven- tus Poß-Comitiales. In the former, the King orders the matters to be deli- berated, which muff be determined in the general Diet of Pola7id, and the reprefentatives are chofen, and receive the money to defray their expences. In the latter, new taxes are impofed, and the accompts of* the former taxes are paffed ; and if any thing detrimental to the Public has been trans- acted at the general Diet of Poland, it is verbally cenfured, or a proteft is entered againft it in writing. The Prußans, befides their own General Diet, aftift at the General Diet of Poland. The three large cities and inferior Nobility are alfo Summoned to the Po/iß General Diet; but as their reprefentatives have no particular place affigned them either in the Senate or among the provincial reprefentatives, their particular concerns are generally inferted in the provincial inftructions, and recommended to the Senators and reprefentatives. §. 5. We have already obferved, that the Prußans agree to the taxes to be impofed on them, not in the General Diets of Polatid, but in their own general Diet. The cities and towns pay the Malt-Excife, as it is called, which is Polifli Pruflia.] POLAND. 631 is two Shillings for every bufhel of malt which they brew ; but the No- bility have introduced a kind of land-tax called Hufengeld, or Poborren. A Pobor* is rated at a Poltß) guilder. Befides this land-tax and the Excife, other contributions and taxes have fometimes been impofed on the Prußam. The caftle of Morienhurg is appointed for the public Treafury, which is under the direction of a Treafurer. The Treafurer of Prußa has a Secretary under him, and is not fubjecf. to the Treafurer of the kingdom, but to the P ruß an States only. The Prußam pay no toll or cuftom ; and when they are in Poland, they only pay thofe of the frontiers which are of long (landing. They are not obliged to go upon any military expedition out of the province : however, the Nobility of the country are always ready to appear in arms for their own defence. The Burghers are exempt from this fervice ; only the citizens of Thorn, in consideration of their privilege of purchasing and holding eftates like the Nobility, fend about thirty-two horfemen, &c. into the field. §. 6. Caufes are tried in Prußa by the Noble-laws of the country, and thofe of Culm. In Elbing, and fome other places, caufes are determined by the Lübeck law. The Nobility in every Palatinate ufe the Provincial and the Caftle-law. Of the latter notice has been taken above in our account of the Woiivcdas or Palatines. The Tribunal at Peterkau is the laft refort for the Nobility in the country ; but from the towns appeals are lodged in the royal Ajfejforial-Court . §. 7. Prußa had formerly its own coin, which was afterwards reduced to the Standard of the Polijh money. The three principal cities of Prußa, by virtue of their particular privileges, are allowed to coin gold and filver pieces of various forts, impreffed with the King's head on one fide, and their respective arms on the reverie, which, after receiving the royal fandtion, are to pafs as the current money of Prußa. §. 8. Befides the Senators, or Counfellors of State, mentioned above, there are Several other public officers in Prußa ; namely, The Treafurer, who is the principal, and even the only one who has an annual appointment and fome other perquilites already fpecified. The Sword-bearer, who has nothing but the bare title. The Standard-bearer, who carries the ftandard of the Province when all the Nobility of the country take the field. The Judges of the land, who are feven in number, and their Affef- fores, or Affiftants. §.9. It is to be obferved of the towns in Prußa, that they were formerly divided into Great Cities and Small Towns. The Great Cities are, Thorn, Elbing, and Dantzick ; and the Small Towns, which are alfo called Royal Towns, amount to feven-and-twenty : but thofe belonging to the Bifhops of * Le, A Hide of land. Er ml and- 632 POLAND. [L. Pomeraiua. Ermland and Culm are not included in this number. An affociation was formed among thefe fin all towns under the government of the Knights of the Teutonic Order. By this union, which continues to this day, they are to unite in behalf of their common privileges ; to confult their intereft as a community in their particular affemblies ; and to recommend their com- mon concerns in the general Diets of Prußa to the reprefentatives of the Great Cities. With regard to their deliberations, Marienburg, which is the moll confiderable among thefe towns, has the Directory; and this town, together with Graudenz, Dirfchau, Stargard, and Konitz, are called the Plenipotentiary towns ; for, beiides their own concerns, they are charged with the affairs of all the other towns, which they lay before the Directory. The latter reprefents them to the Deputies of the Great Cities, who, on account of the care they take of the affairs of the towns in their Palatinates, are called t^uarterjladte. The twenty-feven Small Towns are, Stum, Rheden, Stargard, Neuteich, Golub, Schoneck, Tolkemit, Lautenberg, Berend, Graudenz *, Schonfee, Konitz, Marienburg, DlRSCHAU, Baldenburg, Chriflburg, Mewe, Friedland, Straßurg, Neuburg, Tuchel, Lejj'en, Schweiz, Hammer/lein, Neumark, Putzig, Schlochau. Thefe towns, at prcfent, are far from being in a flourifhing condition. From the fentences of the magiftrates of thefe towns an appeal lies to the Starojias, and from the latter to the King. For an account of their rights and privileges, fee a Latin Treatife entitled, Privilegium civi- tatum minorum Prußia occidentalis, commentariolo illußratum. The Dutchy of Prußa, or Poliß> Prußia, confifts of four Provinces, which are as follows. I. LITTLE POMERANIA Or POMERELLIA. THIS country was formerly a part of the Dutchy of Pomerania, and was governed by its own Princes, of the Pomeranian line. The laft of thefe, who was called Mejlowyn, dying without children in 1295, left * Thofe diftinguifhed by capitals are the Plenipotentiary Towns mentioned above. his Pomcrcllia.] POLAND. 633 his dominions to Premiflaus II. Prince of Great Pcia;id. But the Mar- grave of Brandenburg attacked this country, aOifted by the KiuVhts o r the Teutonic Order ; who afterwards united it to their dominions, and kept poifeffion of it from the year 1310 to 1466. After this, it fell unde 1 " the dominion of Poland. The natives of Pomerellia, in order to diftin- guifh them from the other inhabitants of that country, were formerly CLilled Pommcrinken. This Province has its own Palatine, who is the third among the Prujfiau IVoiwodas and likewife a Vice-Treafurer, and a Sword-bearer. There are five Starojlies in Pomerellia, namely, thofe of Schlochau, Schwetz, Tuchel, Dirfchau, and Putzig. This Palatinate contains five Cirgles, and has four Provincial Judges : for the Diftricr.s of Dantzick and Dirfchau have one each ; the third is for Tuche/, and the fourth for Putzig and Mirchau. The Bilhop of Cuja-via has a very large eftate in this Palatinate ; and, indeed, almolr. the whole Province is under his jurifdiclion, as to eccle- liaftical affairs: Hence he is alfo ftiled Biihop of Pomerellia ; but has no feat in the Pmßan Senate or Council of State. Some part of Pomerellia is under the jurifdiction of the Archbifhop of Gnefna. The moil remarkable places in this Province are, 1. Dantzick, called in Latin Dantifcum or Gedanum, and in the Polißj language Gdantzk, a famous commercial city and fortrefs, fituated on the Wejj'el or Vijhda, about a German mile from the Baltic. Two fmall rivers called Radaune and Mot lau run through the city. The Motlau divides itfelf into two channels, which run between the Old and New Town, and afterwards unite again below the city, and with the Radaune, fall into the Viflula. It is a large, populous, and beautiful city, and built according to the ancient manner of the Hanfe-towns ; but moft of the ftreets are narrow. This is partly occafioned by the Beyfchlage, or Galleries, which project a good way into the ftreets. Thefe Beyfchlage, to which there is an afcent by a few fteps, are even with the houfes ; and under moft of them are good vaults or cellars. Datzick properly confifts of two parts, namely, the Old Town and the New Town, with their fuburbs. This city has a beautiful harbour, and the inhabitants carry on a confiderable trade, efpecially in corn. The fhips belonging to this port are very numerous ; and the privileges of the city are of great importance. As the. third Great City, it fends re- prefentatives to the Prußan Senate, or Council, of State ; who have like- wise a feat in the General Diet of Poland, and vote at the eleclion of a King. The Dantzickers have alfo the privilege of coining money, ga- thering amber, &c. In the year 1567, King Cafimir conferred the title of Noble on the- ■ fixates, Schoppen or Judges, and the hundred Burghers of Dantzick ; fo that lince that time they have been itiled No/files. Vol. I. 4M I 634 POLAND. [Pomerellia. In this city are twelve Lutheran churches, exclufive of thofe in the Houfe of Correction and in the alms-houfe, two Calviniftical churches, and one Popifli church, with a college of Jefuits. The Cathedral, or large Lutheran church, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, is the moft mag- nificent, and the principal parifb-church in Dantzick ; but is fubject to pay pecuniary impofitions to the Bifhop upon any frivolous pretence. The firft Preacher or Minifter of this church is called Senior Minißerii : the reft are equal as to dignity, and two of them muft always be Doctors in Divinity. There is a Lutheran Gy?nna/ium or Academy in the Gray Fryars convent, in which are feven Profefiors, and one Teacher of the Polißi language. The city Library ftands in this convent ; and the col- lection of books, with which it is furnifhed, was not only properly arranged, but alfo greatly improved and augmented by M. Adrian Engelke. Other public buildings in this city are, The Ccuncil-houfes in the Old and New Town. In the tower of the latter are very mufical chimes ; and under the Council-houfe is the Pfund- kamtner, as it is called, where the duty upon merchandife is paid. The public Weigh-houfe, the Arfenal, and the Exchange, which are very old ftructures. The fine mill erected on the river Radaune, which has eighteen wheels, is the largeft in all the city, and is faid to have formerly brought in a ducat every hour to the proprietors ; but, at prefent, it does not yield near fo much. This city was anciently the principal of the Hanfe-tcwns ; being one of the firft that entered into the Hanfeatic Afibciation. The Gentian is al- moft the only language fpoken here ; the Polißo being but little ufed by the inhabitants . This city has its own garrifon ; and the fortifications make a good appearance, efpecially towards the South and the Weft ; for thofe parts of the town are furrounded with mountains and eminences. Some of thefe hills are higher than the city-towers ; and thofe called Bif- cholfsberg and Hagehberg are the moft remarkable among them. On the latter a caftle formerly ftood, which, like the mountain, derived its name from a Nobleman called Hagel, who, for his tyrannical behaviour, was flain there, after which his caftle was laid in afties. This was alio the burying- place of the Sovereigns of the country, as is evident from the arms and itatues found on this hill about the year 1664. Hard by is fhewn the place where the Rußians attacked this city in the year 1734, but without fuccefs j and likewife the large tomb in which a 1000 men, who were killed on this occafion, are interred. According to the Bills of Mortality 1 846 perfons died in this city in 1752. In the fame year 1288 Polijh veflels, fmall and great, from the Vijlula, and 10 14 fhips from the fea, arrived in this port; and 58,060 Lafts and 40 bufhels of corn was brought into this city for exportation, &c* As for hiftorical particulars relating to this city, it appears from the ancient records, that Dantzick, fo early as the year of Chrift 997, was a large Pomerellia.] POLAND. 635 a large commercial city, and not a village or inconfiderable town, as fomc pretend. The New Town was founded by the Crofs-bearing Knights * in the year 13 1 1 ; and was firft furrounded with a wall and moat in the year 1343. This city fliook off the yoke of the Teutonic Knights in 1454, and the inhabitants, under certain reftriclions, fubmitted to Cafimir King of Poland, who among other privileges granted them the right of coining their own money. They afterwards refufed to do homage to Stephen King of Poland, without a previous confirmation of their rights and privileges. Upon this, the city was put under the Ban, and befieged by that Prince: However, matters were adjufted, and, on a public acknow- ledgment of their error, and paying a large fine to the King, he re- ceived the city into favour, confirmed its privileges, and granted the inhabitants the free exercife of the Evangelical or Lutheran religion. In 1734, Stanißaus King of Poland took refuge in this city; but this occa- sioned a hot fiege and bombardment from the Saxons and Rußians. At length, when there was no hopes of relief from the French by fea, and King Stanißaus had found a way to make his efcape, Dantzick fubmitted to Augußus III. Elector of Saxony, as its rightful Sovereign. Some violent diftentions, not long fince, arofe betwixt the Magiftrates and Burghers ; but, after great difputes and animolities, and a vaft expence to the city, they were brought to an accommodation in the year 1752, by the Ordinatio regia civitati Gedanenfi prafiripta, in which may be feen the form of go- vernment, laws, and privileges of this city. Dantzick is in the diocefe of Cujavia ; and the inhabitants pay the Popifh Bifhop all the regard that is confiftent with the difference of their religion, and the privileges and immunities of the city. Without the walls lie the following places, which belong to the city of Dantzick. The Dantziger Werder -f-, as it is called, which is furrounded by the Vißula, the Motlau, and the moraffes caufed by thefe rivers. It contains about 1400 Hides % of land, and about thirty-three villages. It is entirely under the government of the magiftrates of Dantzick ; and the fenior Burgomafter and two of the Senators are the Directors and Superintendents of it. The church-villages in this ifland are twelve in number ; and among thefe is one Calviniftical church and two chapels. The church- village of Stieblau or Stublau, gives' name to Stiebla-Werder. In war time, batteries are erefted at the church-village of Gutland. The inhabitants of the village of Schmcrenblocke are all Hollanders. The Frifihe Nehrung, which is a long narrow flip of land lying be- .tween the fea and the harbour, and extending almoft to Pillau. There are five church-villages on the Frifche Nerung : But the moft remarkable * Thefe were the Teutonic Knights, who had a black crofs in their ftandards and colours. f Werder fignifies an ifland formed by a river, and drained by art. % A Hide of land in England was as much as one plough could cultivate in a year. 4 M 2 place 636 POLAND. [Pomercllia. place in it is the fort called Mundc or Weichfelmundet in Latin Viflulamunda *, which ftands in the Baltic at the mouth of the Vifiula-, and oppofite to it on the other fide of the water ftands a fort called Wefierjchanze. The Munde is a ftrong place, and has a church and a commodious har- bour. It belongs to the city; and was taken by the Saxons in 1734. The fort called Haupt alfo deferves notice. The Hole., as it is called, on which are eight church-villages and the little town of Hela or Heel, which alfo belongs to Datitzick, is on a point of land, which projects with a curve into the Baltic, and forms the Pautz- kerwick bay. Here fhips ufually caff, anchor. In 1572, this little town was confumed by fire. ■2. Oliva, a celebrated convent, which lies about a German mile from Dantzick, was founded by Duke Subißaus in 11 70 ; or, according to others, in the year 1178 by Samborius Duke of Pomerania, for a fraternity of Benedicline monks. In 1224, and 1234 or 1236, it was laid in allies by the Pagans of Prujfia ; and in 1432 or 1433, it was burnt by the Bohemian foldiers, who were in the fervice of Poland. In 1 577, it was demoliihed by the Dantzickers, who were afterwards obliged to pay above 20,000 guilders towards rebuilding it. On the third of May 1660, a peace was concluded in this convent between the Poles and Swedes-, and, in the following year, the treaty was regiftered among the public records and tran factions" of the Kingdom of Poland. This convent is, at prefent, inhabited by Cißercian monks, who are about fifty in number. The infide of the convent-church is exceeding fplendid ; particularly the high altar and the pulpit, which are finely gilt, and appear extremely beautiful. It has forty altars, which are all embel- liihed with the richeft ornaments. It has alfo feveral chapels, among which that of the bleffed Virgin is the moft magnificent. In the choir, the re- mains of the founder of the monaflery and his fons are depofited under a marble tomb-ftone ; and the walls are ornamented with the ftatues of the principal benefactors of the convent. Near the entrance of the church a marble table is fet up in the wall, in commemoration of the treaty of Oleva mentioned above. The difpenfary belonging to the convent is very elegant, and well contrived. This monaflery has the privilege of gathering amber on the fea-coafl. A pretty village has been gradually built round this convent. 3. Pauktzke, or Putzig, a little town with a ftrong caftle, which is a royal demefne. On one fide of it lies a morafs. It was taken by the Danes in 1464, after a long fiege. In 1626, the Swedes made themfclves mafters of it; and in the following year it was recovered by the Poles. Between Dantzick and Putzig, the Baltic forms a bay called Pautzeker- wick. ■ This is Teutonic Latin: It fhould rather be called ViJiuU ojlium ; for the German word Munde ßgnifies a month. 4. Zernoicitz, Pomercllia.] POLAND. 63 7 4. Zeniowitz, a handfomc nunnery belonging to the order of Pramon- ßratentes, which was founded in the year 12 13. 5. Sluclcau, a convent belonging to the Bernardlne nun?. 6. Marien Paradies, a Carthußan convent which lies between two lakes not far from Mirchau. This is the only monaftery belonging to that Order in all Prnßa. 7. Dirfcbau, or Derfau, a ftrong little town feated on the Vißula. It is faid to have been built in the year 1209, and was formerly called Sau. It is, at prefent the capital of a county. In 1288, Mfczugius founded a convent for a fraternity of Predicant monks in this town. In 13 10, and 1432 or 1433, Dirfchau was laid in afhesj and in 1577 it was confumed by an accidental fire. In 1626 and 1655, it was taken by the Swedes. A Provincial Court of Judicature, and the royal Court for the Oeconomie of Dirfchau are held here. There is a Lutheran church in this town. 8. Schoeneck, a fmall town and caftle on the river Fers. It is fuppofed to have been built in the year 1 1 80, and to have been deflroyed by the Prufjians about the year 11 86. But it was rebuilt foon after; and, either by purchafe or exchange was given up by the Knight's of St. 'John to thofe of" the Teutonic Order. Here is a royal Poli/h Chancery; and every month an Affembly or Diet is held in this town, in which the Under JVoie- •woda determines fmall differences ; but caufes of greater confequence are decided by the Woiwoda or Palatine himfelf. Appeals lie from hence to Peterhau. 9. Stargurd, a fmall town, which like wife ftands on the Fers. When this place was little more than a village, Subiflaus, Prince of Pöftierania, granted it to the Knights of St. John, who founded St. Johns church in this town. Stargard was rebuilt by the Teutonic Knights, in the year 1339, on the fpot where it now flands j but the Knights of St. John were not pleafed with the removal of the town. In 1456, it was taken by the Poles , and in 1654, it furrendered to the Swedes. The Diet for this Pa- latinate is held in this town. 10. Mevc, or Gniew, a town and cattle at the conflux of the Fers and the Vißula. In the year 1283, it devolved to the Knights of the Teutonic Order, who built a fortrefs here. In 1463, this place capitulated to the Poles-, and in 1626 and 1655, it furrendered to tne Swedes. The Papifts took pofieffion of the principal church at Meve in the year 1696. Not long fince, John Gertz, a Lutheran preacher, was obliged to creel a ftatue in this town to St. Nepomuc, againft whom, it was pretended, he had fpuke fome difrefpeclful words. 1 1 . Neuburg, or Neuenburg, a little town which has the Vißula on one fide, and a morals on the other. Mention is made of this town as a place of fome note in the year J 3 10. The Burghers drove out the Poli/b gar: 638 POLAND. [Culm. garrifon in 1458 ; upon which the Teutonic Knights of the Crofs made themfelves mafters of the place : However, it was retaken by the Poles in 1364 or 1465. In 1626, and 1655, the Swedes took this town, and put a garrifon in it. 12. Bifchmark, a fmall town, which has been feveral times confumed by fire. 13. Hammerflein, a fmall town near the fource of the river Bro, which, in the year 1466, fubmitted to Poland. This town was reduced to allies in 1719 by an accidental fire. 14. Landeck and Friedland, which are fmall towns. In the latter is a Lutheran church. 1 5. Schweiz, a town and caitle on the Vißula. The cattle was built in 1244 by Duke Suantopolk, as a defence againft the attacks of the Teutonic Knights. After this, the town was gradually built j and, in 1340, it was fortified. In 13 10, it fell under the dominion of the Knights of the Teutonic Order. In 1454, it was taken by the Poles; in the fol- lowing year the Teutonic Knights made themfelves m afters of it ; and in 1466, it was taken again by the Poles. In the year 1655 the Swedes took this place ; and the year enfuing it was taken a third time by the Poles. 16. Tauchel, a little town with acaftle, fituated on the river Bro. It was famous in the former wars between Poland and Prußa ; and a Court of Judicature is held in it. Bromberg, called in the Polißj language Bedgotzi, Bigodfez, or Bidgoß, is a fmall town on the river Bro. That river entirely environs the caftle, which ftands without the town. In 1 6 1 3 , fome Schilli?igs of bafe metal were coined in this town ; which is alfo famous for the treaty which was concluded here in 1657 between the King of Poland and the Elector of Brandejiburg. A Court of Judicature is held here. 1 8. Verdon, Krone, Conitz and Sluchau, four fmall towns on the river Bro. II. CULMERLAND h Or the Palatinate of C U L M. In Latin Palatinatus feu Prcefeflura Calmienfis. THIS Province has a Woiewoda, who is the firft of the three Prußan Palatines, a Caftellan, a Vice-Treafurer, a Sword-bearer, a Judge, and the eight following Staroßies ; namely, thofe of Strasburg, Graudenz, Rheden, Golub, Roggenhaufen, Bretchen, Schonfee, and Engeljburg. The bifhop- Culm.] POLAND. 639 bifliopric of Culm is the moft ancient See in Poliß Prußa, and was founded about the year 12 15, or 1222, by Conrad Duke of Mafovia. The Col- lege, or Chapter, of the churches of Culm confifts only of four canons who are chofen by the Bifhop and the reft of the Chapter. A fuller account of the Diocefe and Bifhop of Culm has been given above §. 3. The principal places in the Palatinate of Culm are, 1. Culm or Cbelmno, which is the capital of this province, and (lands on an eminence on the banks of the Viflula. This city was founded in 1239 j and was bequeathed by one of the Dukes of Mafovia to the Knights of the Teutonic Order. The inhabitants afterwards withdrew themfelves from the obedience of the latter, and fubmitted to Poland. While the Teutonic Knights had the Sovereignty of Culm, the High Tribunal of Prußa was held in this city. Hence the Culmean law was in fuch reputation, that there were few plaees in Prußa, or Mafovia, where it was not received. Culm is a large city, though but thinly inhabited. It was formerly one of the Hanfe-towns, and, under the Kings of Poland, was reckoned one of the Great Cities, as they are called ; and confequently had reprefentatives in the Senate, or Prußan Council : but it is at prefent fubjecl to the Bifliop. The Teutonic Knights granted this city the privilege of coining money. Here are two monafteries and a nunnery. In the year 1457, me Knights of the Teutonic Order, from whom this city had revolted, made themfelves mafters of it again ; but in few years after, it was taken by the Poles. In 1544, Culm fuffered greatly by fire. 2. Altbaus, a caftle on an eminence near the Vißula, with a village or fmall town. It is called Starigrod in the Polijh language. 3. Culmenfec, or Chelmza, is a fmall town about a German mile from Culm, and the reiidence of the Bifliop of Culm 5 who is alfo ftiled the Bifhop of Lobau, where he has a feat. This town was built in the year 1251. 4. Frideck, in Polifh Wambrifna, a fmall town, which was founded in the year 1331. 5. Thorn, which is the moft ancient city in either of the two Prußa's, and the chief of the three Great Cities of Poliß Prußa, ftands on the Viflula. The magiftrates and reprefentatives of Thorn have the precedence of thofe of the other Cities ; and the records of Polijh Prußa are kept in this town. Thorn was founded by Herman Balck, firft Grand-mafter of the Teutonic Order, who built the caftle of Thorn in 123 1. In the following year, the foundation of the town was laid ; but the building was difcont'inued in 1235 on account of the inconvenient fituation, and Thorn was built about a German mile farther up the river, on the fpot where it now ftands. It is fuppofed to have been called Thorn, becauie the Knights of the Teutonic Order by building this city opened to themfelves a Thor or door into Prußa. This is further confirmed by the maps, and the feal of the city which re- prefents 640 POLAND. [Culm. presents a gate thrown open. 'Thorn, Soon after it was built, became distin- guished above the other towns of Prujjia by feveral valuable privileges ; particularly the Cultnifoe Handveße, as it was called. Theie privileges, which were not granted to other cities till a long time after, confided in the choice of their judges and magistrates from among the Burghers ; the pnniihment of offenders ; the free and independent poflefiion of eftates ; and exemption from all taxes. However, an officer fliled Comthur was appointed by the Teutonic Knights, who relided in a caStle near the Vifluta, and had power over the magistracy and Burghers in matters of general concern, till the year 1454. But when the Knights of the Teutonic Order enormcufly abufed their power throughout all Prußa, Thorn was the firil city which formed the noble fcheme of making off their oppreffive yoke. The inhabitants, having concerted with the other towns, entered into an alliance for that purpofe ; and the original Instrument of that afiociation is flill to be feen among the records of this city. This happened in the year 1454, when at once the country now called Polißj Prujjia expelled the Teutonic Knights by torce of arms, and aflerted their freedom. On this occafion the inhabitants of Thorn, having made themfelves rnafters of the caftle, demolifhed it ; and nothing but its magnificent ruins are now to be feen. The confederates put themfelves under the protection of Cafimir the Great, King of Poland ; but upon the following advantageous conditions : Their rights, privileges and immuni- ties were to remain entire. They were to honour his Polißj Majefty as their Sovereign, but without any farther connexion with Poland than a clofe harmony and alliance, by which they engaged to have the fame allies and enemies, to affift each other on all occafions, and reciprocally to promote the welfare and profperity of both parties. The magistrates of the cities acquired great eSteem and authority by this alliance, &c. and particularly many privileges were conferred on Thorn, Rlbing and Dantzick the three Great Cities, as they are called. But as Thorn had moSt fignally distinguished itfelf in Shaking off the Teutonic yoke, it more eminently deferved thofe immunities which the two other Great Cities Shared with it, and had fome exclufive privileges on that account. The privileges granted in common to thefe three cities were as follows: They were declared free cities. They were to be governed by their own magistrates, which confiSt of the Council, the chief perfons of which are the Burgrave and Prefident ; the Schoppen or Judges ; and a third clafs as representatives of the Burghers. The members of the Council, in regard to their dignity, were to be accounted Noble ; and even tobe Stiled Nobiles in the instruments iffued by the Royal Chancery and other offices. The BurgomaSters were termed Praconfules, and the CounSellors had the title of Confides or confuls. They were further allowed to hold a Supreme Court of Judicature, and, in criminal cafes, to puniSh capitally even thofe who were 4 not Culm.] POLAND. 641 not inhabitants of the city, if they were taken in the fad ; to have their own garrifon ; to coin money ; but not to fubmit to the determination of any foreign court; to have their law-iuits decided only in Pruffia. They were to pay no other cuftoms in Poland but thole ufually demanded at the firft barrier on the frontiers. Laftly, they were to be members of the State-Council of Polißo PruJJhi ; and to have a feat and vote in the Polijh Diet, and at the election of a King. The third Jubilee of this happy event was very juftly commemorated with great rejoicings in the fchools of all the three great Cities in February iJSA-> when 'Thorn and Dantzick even caufed medals to be (truck, on the occafion. The exclufivc privileges, which Thorn in particular obtained, are alfo very important; namely, The Recorder of that city is to write down the decrees of the Diet of Pruffui, in the name of the whole country, which are drawn up in the Latin tongue according to the intent and meaning of the Counfellors ; to read them publicly ; and afterwards to depofit them in the Archives or chamber of records in this city. Two members of the Coun- cil of Thorn always affift at the feffions of the Culmean Judicature, which is annually held here by the Nobility in the month of OSlcbcr. As Thorn y for fome centuries, had been the Staple city, it was confirmed in the in- violable poffeffion of that advantageous privilege ; and as the Vißitla waters its territory, the iflands and fisheries in that river were made the property of the city. Laftly, the Burghers of Thorn were rendered capable of purchafmg and enjoying fiefs or eftates, which privilege none but the Nobility enjoy in this country. This city has ten gates, and is divided into the Old and New-Town, each of which had formerly its refpeclive Council, Magiftracy, and Police. But, in 1454, they were incorporated into one city. They are, however, feparated from each other by a wall and moat within the town ; and without, they are defended in common by a fine double wall and moats. Thorn was formerly ftrongly fortified ; and it gradually improved its advantageous iituation, lb as to become a place of very considerable trade, and one of the principal of the Hanfe-towns. It likewife carried on an extenfive com- merce in the Baltic, independently of the other cities of that confederacy ; for before the river widened fo much, and confequently became (hallower, mips of the greateft burden could come up to the very city. From this caufe, and other fubfequent misfortunes which followed clofe upon one another, in little more than half a century Thorn greatly declined from its flourifhing condition. For it furrendered by capitulation in J 655 to Charles Gußavus King of Sweden ; and in 1658, after a vigorous fiege, it was takea by the Poles and Brandenbnrghers. In 1703, it was bombarded and takea by Charles XII. King of Sweden, who not only exhaufted it by the heavieft contributions; but alfo demolished all the fortifications contrary to the articles of capitulation. Between the years 1708 and 1710, great numbers Vol. I. 4 N of 6 4 2 POLAND. [Culm. of its inhabitants were fwept away by the plague. In the following years, the revenues of the city fuftered confiderably by the Confederations in Poland, and no lefs by the late commotions occasioned by the competitors for the Crown of that kingdom. In the year 1734, it alfo fuftained great dama- ges by fire ; not to mention the immenfe charges of the Royal Polijh Com- mifTiori in 1718, for determining the differences betwixt the Magiftrates and Burghers ; and particularly that memorable CommilTion lent hither in 1724. "Betides, there is no place in Priifia fo expofed to moleftations and vexatious fuits from the Nobility as the city of Thorn ; for it is feparated from Poland only by the river, and on the Prußan fide is furrounded by the eftates of the Nobility. However, Thorn might ftill have fuch a fhare of commerce as would prove a fund of wealth and affluence to the inhabi- tants, if there were merchants of fortune among them ; fince all the commodi- ties with which Dantzick carries on fuch a great trade are conveyed on the Vijlula by Thorn. It was alfo accounted the handfomeft city in Pol iß Prußa, and may ftill claim that honour ; for its ftreets are broad and regular, and, for the moft part, planted with rows of trees : The houfes are alfo remark- able for their elegant appearance and cleanlinefs. The inhabitants of Thorn are univerfally commended by foreigners for their civility and politenefs, beyond thofe of any other town in Prußa. It is alfo obfervable, that the German language is fpoken here in the greateft purity ; fo that even the inhabitants c c Upper Saxony, candidly ac- knowlege, that they are at leaft equalled, if noc excelled, in this particular by the commonalty and Burghers of Thorn. What is ftill more remarkable is, that not only the German, but even the Poliflj language, which is fo necef- fary for carrying on trade, is alfo fpoken here in fuch perfection, that feveral Poles fend their children hither, merely to learn their native tongue in its purity and elegance. The territory belonging to this city is of a confiderable extent, including above twenty-five villages, among which are feveral noble eftates ; on this account, the city is obliged to furnifh a fmall body of horfe in cafe of an ex- pedition for the defence of the country. In one of its dependencies called Prfzyfzecx, where a great quantity of beer is brewed, and abundance of fpirits are diftilled, an odd cuftom prevails ; namely, that all perfons of what- ever rank they be (though their number be ever fo great and it be repeated every day) that come into the place, muft be defired to drink as much beer as they pleafe gratis *. Not a lingle drop of the beer brewed in this village is allowed to be fold here; and the public houfes are obliged to fetch liquor for fale from other places. As this village lies at a moderate diftance from the city, it being about two hours walk along a pleafant road, great num- bers refort to it on foot and on horfeback ; and there is a particular building with feveral fpacious rooms erected here for the entertainment of company. * This is a genuine Ttutoik cuftom. Heuere who finds the beer? Thorn Culm.] POLAND. 643 Thorn has its own garrifon which generally confifts only of one company.- ' The foap, gingerbread, &c. of Thorn are every where in great requeft, and accordingly great quantities of them are exported. The afparagus that grow wild on tome of the city lands, are not inferior to thofe which are cul- tivated with fo much care in other countries. The wooden-bridge over the Vißula in this city mayjuftly be efteemed the longeft, the moil extraordinary and expenfive bridge in Europe, and the city, in order to carry on the trade with Poland by land, is obliged to keep it in repair at a great expence. It is unqueftionably the longeft bridge in Europe ; but confifts properly of two bridges, the ifland of Bazar dividing it in the middle. That part of the bridge which is next to Thorn is called the G<.77;/ for which reafon I have added the words « furrouaded with water.' who 64.8 POLAND. [Marienburg. who are 1 fubjeft to the jurisdiction of the cities are under greater reftric- tioas, than the royal peafants who live in the Marlenburg Werders. They talk the German and Poliß languages ; and as to their religion, they are for the moll: part Lutherans or Papifts. There are, however, lbme Cal- vinifts, and a considerable number of Mennonites *, among them. I. The Great Marienburg-Werder, in Latin Infula major. This Werder is environed by the Viflula, the Nogat, and the bay called Frifche-haf; and contains above 2130 Hides of land. The latter are divided into Zins-Hufen, or ' Taxable Hides,' and Scharicerks-Hufcn, or ' Hides that maintain troops ;' and likewife into Schulzen-Hufen, or ' Hides under village-jurifdiction,' and Kirchen-Hufen, or ' Ecclefiaftical Hides,' which are under Popifh juris- diction in ecclefiaftical affairs. This Werder alio includes the forty Hides of land which belong to the city of Marienburg, and twenty Hides about the fmall town of Neufeich. Befides the Vijiula, this Werder is alfo watered by the river Tye or Tyge, which rifes in the foreft of Montau, traverfes the Werder, divides into two branches which environ the little town of Neuteich, and runs into the bay called Frifche-haf near Haberhorß. This river is called Suente by the inhabitants of the Upper -Wer der. Two channels alfo run towards the weft from the Great Werder into the Frifche-haf one of which is called jfungfern-Laacke, and runs into the bay through the Werder of Elbing, near the village of Jungfer ; and the other is called Stobfche-Laacke and runs by Stobe, a village belonging to Elbing, oppofite to Marienburg. The Great and Little Marienburg-Werder fell under the dominion of Poland in the year 1525; and from that time a Palatine or Starojla is always nominated here as fupreme Oeconomus, or Steward, who is, as it were, the royal Governor in Polifh Prußa : Hence he takes place of all other Starojlas. Under this officer is a deputy Oeconomus, who is alfo a Poli/h Nobleman ; and both thefe are affifted in law matters by a Notariusjuratus, or Notary public. Here are alfo a Vogt, or Collector, and a Secretary ; who receive all the revenues, and take care of the King's intereft. The law- fuits between the inhabitants are tried at the caftle according to the laws of Poland, Culm, Sec. The P ruffian law made in 1620, which is the fame with the old law of Culm, is the Standard whereby the Werderers are ufually tried in the caftle at Marienburg, and alfo in the territories of Dantzick and Elbing. The Teichgrafe, and other officers belonging to the Dikes, govern according to the laws impofed on them by the Teutonic Knights, and confirmed by the Kings of Poland and the officers ap- pointed by him : The number of thefe laws are alfo increafed from time to time. * Thefe are a fort of Anabaptifts, The Marienburg.] POLAND, 649 The Great Marienburg-Werder confifts of five Winkels, a3 they arc called ; namely, 1. The Winkel of Montau. 2. The Winkel of Schonau. 3 . The Winkel of Lelchlenau. 4. The Winkel of Neuteleh. 5. The Winkel of Lefuutz. It alfo includes thirteen Evangelical or Lutheran pariilics. In the firft Winkel are five village-jurifdiclions, and two church-villages ; in the fecond are feven village-jurifdiclions, and two church-villages ; and in the third are leven village-jurifdiclions, and four church-villages. In the fourth Winkel, befides the little town of Neuteleh, are eight village-jurif- diclions, and three church-villages ; and in the fifth are fourteen village- jurifdiclions, and only three villages with churches. Thefe Winkels alio include four conliderable manors, namely, Kleln-Muntau, Le/ke, Kaminke, and Calten-hof. To this part alfo belong The Diftricl of Tiegenhof, which contains above fix hundred and thirty- two Hides of land, in which, befides the feat and town of Weyersbof^ are twenty villages : Three of the latter are inhabited by Lutherans. The Diftricl of Barwald, which is contiguous to the foregoing and contains one hundred and ninety-five Hides and fifteen acres, and five villages, two of which are church-villages, and inhabited by Lutherans. Laftly, the Great Marienburg-Werder includes the Winkel of Scharpau, which comprehends ninety-fix Hides of land, and about fourteen villages ; and alfo fome village-jurifdiclions in the territory of Elbing. II. The Fischau-Werder. This Werder derives its name from the village of Flfchau which ftands in the centre of it ; but it is at prefent known by the name of the Little Marienburg-Werder ; and in it is the conflux of the rivers Elbing, Draufen, and Nogat. The Elbi)ig has its fource in the Drai/fen-lzke ; runs clofe by the city of that name ; and, after uniting with the Pjiel and the Nogat, falls into the Frlfche-haf. Several new rivers or canals dif- charge themfelves into the Elbing and the Draufen ; and among thefe is the FlJ'chaUy over which there is a ferry near the city of Elbing. Part of this Werder is under the jurifdiclion of the caftle of Marienburg ; and in that part are four Lutheran parilhes. The Prujjian and Holland Hides, as they are called, together with the Meadows or pafture-lands in this Werder, are computed at nine hundred and fixty-lix Hides and twelve acres ■three quarters of land. On the Prußlan Hides ftand twenty-one villages ; and fixteen on thofe of Holland and the Meadows. III. The Elbing-Werder. Part of this Werder is included in that of Fifcbau. The church- villages of Furßenau, and Grofs-Maufdorf with their dependencies, and the Vol. I, 4 O village 6co POLAND. [Marienburg. village of Jungfer on the Frifche-haf; in the Great Marienburg-Wer der * and alfo the church-villages of Neuheyde, Zeyr, with which feven other villages are incorporated, belong to the Elbing-Werder. The Lutheran congregations in both the Marienbitrg-Werders, have fuf- fered manv infringements in their civil and religious liberties from the Papifts. The number of the Lutheran minifters amount in all to twenty- fix, Thefe are not united into a body or fociety, under the government of a Senior : but every minifter is ablblutely independent of all the reft ; which occafions too many irregularities. Every congregation appoints their own preacher. The principal places in the Prefecture of Marienburg are, i . Marienburg^ a well-built town, which ftands on an eminence near the river Nogat, in a pleafant and fertile country. Oppofite to this town is the Werder-Üuice, which checks the ftream of the Nogat, but is detri- mental to the works of the caftle. The wooden-bridge which is here laid over the Nogat, and is five hundred and thirty-nine feet in length, is a very great charge and burden to the city ; the fund appropriated for the building and repairing of it being far from fufficient for that purpofe. The caftle was built before the town ; for the former is faid to have been erecled in 1281; whereas the latter was not built till the year 1304, on th? fpot where a village called Czantrin ftood before. In this caftle is the trcaiury in which the revenues of Po/iß> Prußa are kept. The ftreets of this town are very dirty. Moft of the inhabitants of Marienburg arc Roman-catholics. Here, formerly, refided the Grand Mafter of the 'Teu- tonic Order ; and the P ruffian Diets are held alternately at Marienburg and at Graudenz. In the year 1460, this town was taken by the Poles. In 3626 and 1655, the Swedes made themfelves mafters of it. In 1644, the caftle of Marienburg was entirely confumed by fire. There is but one Lu- theran church in this town. 2. Stum, a fmall town and caftle, where the Diet of this Palatinate and a court of Judicature are held. It was built in the year 1249, or, ac- cording to others, in 1278. In the years 1410, 1454, and 141 6, the Poles wrefted this town out of the hands of the Teutonic Knights ; and in 1626 and 1656, it was taken by the Swedes. 3. Stumdorf, a village well known for the peace concluded here betwixt Poland and Sweden in 1635. It does not lie far from the foregoing town. 4. Chrijiburg, a confiderable town, with an old caftle built on an emi- nence in 1247. It ftands en the river Sirguncn, which falls into the JDraufen over againft Elbing. Here is held the Palatine's Caftle-court, as it is called. This town was deftroyed by fire in the year 14003 and the Iwedes got pofleftion of it in 1626. 5. Neuteich, a fmall town fituated in the Great Werder on the river Suente. It was built in the year 1329 ; and fuffered much by a fire in the year 1400, and like wile in the feveral wars, in which this country has been involved. 6. Elbing, Marienburg.] POLAND. 65 1 6. Elbing, a handfome, large city, which is fortified after the old way, and Hands on a river of the fame name, which has its fource in xkaDraufetfr lake. It was built in 1239, and is a place of confiderable trade. Th city dates its firft privilege from the year 1246, when the right of coina»'-, was granted to it. The Newjladt, or New Town, received its privilege^ in 1347. Between the Allfiadt, or Old Town, and the fuburbs, where the ftore-houfes of the merchants are erected, runs the river Elbing ; and the Old Town is feparated from the New Town by a wall and moat. The houfes are high, narrow in front, and built in the old tafte, almofl: like thofe at Dantzick. The flxeets are alfo very narrow, occasioned by the Beyfchlage or Galleries which project into them ; and before thefe are placed receptacles for all the duft and filth thrown out of the houfes. Here are ten churches in which Divine Service is performed. That of St. Nicholas, which is the handlbmett and largeff. ftrueture of that kind in Pruffia, was given up to the Papifts in 16 16. The Calvinifrs perform Divine Service in a large hall, and the Mennonites in a private houfe, in this city. The Gymnajium or School belongs to the Lutherans. Elbing is one of the Hanfe-fowns ; and as it was inhabited by a colony from Lübeck, it is governed by the laws of that city; however, the Burghers have their particular rights and privileges. The caftle, which had been built in 1237, was demolilhed by the Burghers in the year 1454. The fortifications towards the Werder are very flight ; but, on the oppofite fide, they are in a much better conditon : However, this town is looked upon as one of the flxongeft in Polijh Prajfni. Some companies of the crown army of Poland are cantoned in this town ; but the Burghers keep guard at the gates, and the fuburbs have a P ruffian »arrifon. Elbing, in eccleiiaftical matters, is under the jurifdiction of the Bifhop of Ermeland, as far as is confiftent with the difference of religion, and without prejudice to the rights and privileges of the city; but, in civil affairs, it is fubject to the King only. In the year 1454, the inhabitants revolted from the Knights of the Teu- tonic Order, and put themfelves under the protection of Poland. In 1626 and 1656, they voluntarily furrendered the town to the Swedes. In the year 1658, Elbing, indeed/ by the convention of Bromberg, was promifed as a mortgage to Frederick William Elector of Brandenburg, to be held by him as a fecurity for the payment of 400,000 rix-dollars, and in 1660, it was confirmed to that Prince by a new inftrument; but he never got pofleffion of the town : and though he remitted a fourth part of the fum, he never received the money. That Elector's fon, however, took it in 1698; but he reftored it to Poland in the year 1700; and gave up his right to the mortgage, in confideration of which he was promifed 300,000 rix-dollars, and, as a fecurity for the payment of the money, fame jewels out of the royal treafury were put into his hands. The town was obliged to enter into an engagement to furniih 50,000 dollars toward? 4 O 2 this 652 POLAND. [Ermeland. this fum ; to maintain a garrifon of 300 foot and 50 horfe under the command of an experienced officer, and, in cafe of neceffity, to augment this number to a corps of 2000 men ; never to transfer its fovereignty with- out the privity of the King and Republic of Poland, and the States of Prußei; and to (hew the greateft refpect to the Roman-catholic religion. But as the Elector did not receive the fum ftipulated, he took poffefiion of the Difhict belonging to this city by virtue of the above agreement. In 1703, Elbing fell into the pofleffion of the Swedes, who laid it under contribution; but the Rujians took it from them by ftorm in 17 10, This town is likewife called Urbs Drujiana from its vicinity to the DraujeJi- lake ; and is the fecond of the three Prujian Great Cities, IV. ERMELAND. In Latin Varmia^ or Epifcopatus Va?'?nie?ißs. THIS Province is entirely furrounded by Brandcnburg-Prußa *, and belongs to no Palatinate ; but is entirely fubjecT: to the Bifhop and Chapter; fo that neither the Nobility nor the other inhabitants of Ermeland can appeal to any other judicature. I have given fome account of the Bifhop of Ermeland above in p. 627, §. 3. Two thirds of this Province belong to the Bifhop, and the remaining third part to the Chapter. Their fubjects have recourfe to the fame Courts of Judicature as the reft of the Pruffians ; however, they have particular laws among them which are ftiled Landes-Ordnungen. They have alio a Provincial Diet in common, to which the Nobility, the Burghers, and country Judges, together with the freemen (who being under no vaffalage, are in fome meafure of a middle rank between the Nobility and the peafants) are fummoned. The Ermelan- dcrs do not affift at the P ruffian Diets ; but the Bifhop is always prefent there, and propofes whatever is deliberated and determined concerning his diocefe j particularly in relation to the taxes, according as they have been previoufly agreed upon in a provincial meeting held for that purpofe, where the Erme- landers feldom diffent from their Bifhop and the Pruffan States. The towns and other remarkable places in Ermeland are the following. 1 . Frauenburg, a town of a moderate extent on die Frifche-haf. It was founded in the year 1 270 - t and is governed by the Lübeck law. This town is the feat of the Chapter. The Cathedral ftands on an eminence : The celebrated mathematician Nicholas Copernicus was a canon of it, and died at Frauenburg on the twenty- fourth of May 1543. 2. Praunjbergy a pretty large and good trading town, ßtuated on the Faffarge % which, at a little diitance from hence, difcharges itfelf into the * This is alfo cyJlcd Ducal Piuffia, and belongs to his P ruffian Majcfty. bay Ermeland.] POLAND. 653 bay called Frifche-haf. It was built in the year 1255, an d derives its name from Bruno Bifhop of Prague. Braunjberg is divided into the Old and the New Town, and is very populous : the inhabitants ufc the Lübeck law. The celebrated Jefuits college in this town was formerly a Francifcan convent, which was founded by the learned and famous Cardinal Staniflaus Hofius, vfao was Bifhop of Ermeland, and from his name called Hofiauum. There is alfb a nunnery in this town. In the year 1260, the cathedral of Ermeland was^endowed with fixteen prebends, for as many prebendaries or canons. IÄ1461, the inhabitants expelled the Polijh garrifon out of the city, and afforded an AJJylum to the Bifhop of Ermeland, who had declared for the Knights of the Teutonic Order. In 1637, King Vladijlaus, by a public in- Itrument, created the firft Patricians of this city. Braunsberg was formerly one of the Prußan Great Cities, as they are called, and fent reprefentatives to the Senate or Council of State ; but is now under the jurifdiction of the Biihop. 3. Tolketnit, or Tolmit, a little town on the Frifche-haf, which was built in 1365. It was confumed by fire in 1456, and has lince unds/gone many other calamities. 4. Melfacky a fmall town and caftle on the river Walfihe, which runs into the Paffarge. 5. Warmßadt, or Wormit, a town and caftle on the Paffarge. It was built in the year 13 16. 6. Heilsberg, a beautiful town on the Alle, in which ftands an elegant feat belonging to the Biihop of Ermeland. This town is faid to have been built in 1240, and was deftroyed by fire in the year 1521. Charles XII. King of Sweden had his head quarters here in 1703. There is a college of Jefuits in this town. 7. Keffel, an elegant little town with a caftle. It is well fupplied with provisions, and carries on a good trade. Here is a college of Jefuits, to which die church of the Holy Linden-tree in Brandenburg Prußa belongs, 8. Bifchofsßeiriy or Bißein, a fmall town, which was built in the year 1325, taken by the Teutonic Knights in 14.55, an< ^ deftroyed by fire in 1589. 9 St. Mary in the JVildernefs, which lies between Heilsberg and Bijlein y is reckoned a facred place, and much frequented by pilgrims. 1 o. Seeburg, a fmall town of litte note. 11. Wartenburg, a little town with a caftle on the river Pi [je, which Was built in 1325. In the year 1455, tne inhabitants furrendered this town to the Knights of the Teutonic Order ; and in 1494 it was confumed by fire. 12. Gutßadt, a fmall town, which ftands on the river Alle. It was built in the year 1325, and has been fince confiderably enlarged. 13. Allerßein, called in the Poliß language Qlfiineck, is a fmall town with a caftle on the fame river. It was built in 1367 ; and belongs to the Chapter of Ermeland who keep a Landvogt here. 1 4. Bifchburg, or Bijchofsburg, a little town which has feveral times been deftroyed by fire. The [65+] § M. T -**-• THE D U T C H Y * O F COURLAND, In Latin Curlandia^ or Curoma. Barnlkel, chief architect of Courland, has favoured the Public with a map of this Dutchy, which is drawn with tolera- ble accuracy, and was engraven on two fheets at Nurenberg by Homan's heirs. §.2. The word Courland, or as this Dutchy is called in the language of the country, Kur, or Cur-Semme, is of the fame import with Jubr-Semwe, and fio-nifies a maritime country, or a traft of land that projects into the lea. Courland is bounded on the Weft by the Baltic, and on the North by the gulf of Riga and Livonia : It borders on Lithuania, properly fo called, towards the Eaft, and on Samogltla towards the South. It extends fifty German miles in length, and the breadth is in fome places twenty, in ethers hardly ten German miles ; and towards the South-weft it gradually terminates in a cape, or point of land. §.3. The foil, Gelding, Windaiv, Alfebwang, and fome other Dif- trkfts excepted, is heavy, fat, and claiey, and the country abounds with woods and fwamps : Hence the Courland roads are remarkably bad. In fpring and autumn the meadows and low grounds are under water; but this ferves to improve the land. Some fkilful farmers have drained feveral of the fenny or fwampy parts of Courland, by means of dikes or canals, and converted them into what they call Staungen. Thefe Staungen are fown three years fucceftively with fummcr feeds -, and then they are left Courland.] POLAND. 6 55 left uncultivated for the like term, being laid under water, and flocked with fi(h. Courland, however, contains good arable land, fine paftures, and pro- duces great quantities of excellent flax. Here is alfo plenty of fea-fifh ; and the woods abound with bears, wolves, and elks. Amber is found here on the coaft of the Baltic ; and Conrland has its mines of iron- ore and minerals, its quarries of ftone, chalk, and ftucco, and its mi- neral fprings. The principal rivers in this country are, The Windau, in Latin Veta, which rifes in Samogitia, and empties itfelf into the Baltic near the town of Windan. The Aa, which alfo has its fource in Samogitia t and falls into the gulf of Riga. The fmaller rivers are. The Abau. The Berfe. The Bartau. The Muffa, The Anger, &c. §. 4. The inhabitants of this country are compofed of Germans and Lettonians. The latter are not only vaffals and tenants to the former ; but are, in a manner, flaves to them. There are two languages ufually fpoken in Courland, viz. the German and the Lettonian. The Refor- mation or Lutheran religion took place in this Dutchy in the year 1522; and in 1532, Courland joined with Riga in a particular religious league; fo that when this country fell under the dominion of Poland, the in- habitants were altogether Lutherans, without any Papifts among them. But the fubfequent mifunderflandings between the Dukes and the NoblefTe of Courland having occafioned feveral orders to be ifTued by the court of Roland, and Judiciary Commifiions to be deputed from that crown, a fatal gap was opened for Popery. The Roman-catholics were, at firft, only per- mitted to have churches in this country ; but they foon raifed themielves to a level with the Lutherans. In 1717, and 1727, the Papifts of Courland received fome additional privileges. Several of the Conrlandijh Nobility, who had embraced the Popifh religion, fignally exerted their zeal to introduce it into the churches within their refpedive jurifdiclions ; which greatly contributed to the fpreading of that fuperftition. The mar- riages of the Dukes of Courland with PrincefTes who were Calviniils, alfo introduced that religion into the Dutchy ; however, the Calvinifts are ex- cluded from all public employments in this country. §.5. The Nobility of Courland have great privileges and immunities ; and the old Nobility are carefully diftinguifhed from the new : but when Ritterbatike or aflemblies of the Nobles were held in 1620, 163 1, and 4 l6 34> 6 5 6 POLAND. [Courland. 1634, many of the new families, who are not entered in the rcgifters of the Pitterbanke, afiifted at thole meetings. However, by an ancient law which has been frequently confirmed, the old Nobility alone are capable of rilling the polls of honour. The Noblemen in this country generally embrace a military life. A Noble Cour lander enjoys in Poland the fame rights and privileges as a native, and a Polißi Nobleman has the fame indulgence in Courland. However, neither of them enjoy that privilege» until they are fixed and fettled in thofe countries : and, indeed, at prelent a Courlandifi) Nobleman very feldom holds any eminent poll: in Poland, thole of the law excepted, unlefs he be a Papilt. The Nobility of Cour- land have no feat in the general Diet of Poland. A Nobleman in this country is by law proprietor of whatever mines are difcovered on his eftate ; and if it be near the fea, he has alfo the privilege of Jetfon. By an ordinance palled in the year 1588, a Noble- man's houfe both in town and country is an ajylum, from which no perfon can be forcibly taken ; and by an Ordinance of the year 1454, a noble Courlander is not to be taken into cuftody, or his effects confifcated, ^ill he has been previoufly iummoned, and legally convicted before a Court of Judicature. By other ordinances paffed in 1569, 1576, 1587, 1588, and 1650, their tenants, vaflals, and domeftics, are exempt from paying any toll, cuftom, or excife, for any goods, &c. that belong to them ; and no foldiers are to be quartered on their eftates. By an Act: of Ritterbanke in 1634, and an Ordinance of the year 1676, no new- created noble family, till the third generation, is qualified to hold a poll of honour, or to be a magistrate ; nor can he be fent as an Envoy, unlefs he has diftinguifhed himfelf in the fervice of his country, or is recom- mended by fome of the ancient noble families. Among other privileges, the Nobility here have an unlimited power over their vaflals, which extends even to life and death ; but before they can punifh a vaflal with death, they are obliged to hold a regular court under a penalty of one hundred florins *'. Hence the refpect the peafants fhew their Lords riles almoft to adoration -, and whatever property thefe ar- bitrary Lords require, the wretched vaflals are obliged to give up, and immediately obey their commands without making any remonflxances. The Nobility of Courland are all on a level, and have, in conjunction with the Duke, the patronage of the parifh-churches, but the Duke alone is patron of fome, and the Nobility of other churches. In thefe parifhes, at the delire of the Nobility, the Superintendant, aflifted by fome Provofts, ordains and collates the new incumbents. The noble Courlanden may hunt wherever they pleafe ; and in war time, or when the Union with the Republic of Poland requires it, they * A Polijb florin is equal to IS. zd. fterling. appear Courland.] POLAND. 657 appear on horfeback according to the compact, and the fervice they owe to the Duke as vaffals. But when fuch a general military appearance is required, the Duke in perfon is obliged to march at the head of them. They indeed choofe their own colonels and other officers ; but thefe are all under the Duke's command : Nor are they obliged to march beyond the frontiers of Courland, unlefs the Duke, out of regard to the King and Republic of Poland, voluntarily agrees to pafs beyond the boundaries. They pay a great refpect to their Duke ; but in order to keep up a due harmony between the Duke and the Nobles, the former muff carefully avoid giving the lean: fulpicion to the latter of any defign on their privileges, of which they are extremely jealous. §. 6. Courland formerly belonged to Livonia, and, till the thirteenth century, underwent the lame viciffitudes with that country ; both being mattered by the Knights of the Teutonic Order, who were in poflefliofi of them till the year 156 1. About that time the Ruffians invaded the country ; and as the Order was then much declined from its former power and greatnefs, Gothard Keller, the laft Great Matter, yielded up Livonia to the King of Poland, as Great Duke of Lithuania. In return for tin's ceffion, Courland and Semgallia were erected into a temporal Dutchy ; and Ketler was inverted with it as an hereditary fief in 1 56 1 . Such was the origin of the Dutchy of Courland; and the new Duke being under the protection of the Kingdom of Poland, as united with Lithuania, intro- duced and ettablifhed the reformed religion in his Dutchy. In the beginning of the eighteenth century, under Frederick Wil- liam the fixth Duke, Courland was harraffed both by the Swedes and Ruffians. But in 17 10, that Prince married Anne a Princefs of Rußa ; who, after his difeafe, which happened in 171 1, remained in pofieffion of the fovereignty under the protection of her uncle Czaar Peter I. though Ferdinand, brother to the late Duke's father, to whom the fuc- ceffion belonged, was ttill living. The Nobility and Ferdinand were, indeed, at variance, not fo much on account of his changing his religion ; but becaufe he generally lived out of the Dutchy, and was for holding the reins of fovereignty though abient ; and on account of his forcible ejectment of the mortgagees out of the ducal eftates. This difpute brought a Polijh Commiffion into Cour- land in 1717; and a marriage was propofed between Anne, the Dutchefs Dowager, and Duke John Adolphus of Weifjenfels, but to as little purpofe as another propolal of marriage with the Margrave of Brandenburg Schwed. This put the Poliß: States on deviling the means of incorporating Cour- land with the Kingdom of Poland on the demile of Duke Ferdinand, and of dividing it into Palatinates. This project raifed fuch apprehenfions for their religion and liberties in the States of Courland, that, notwithstanding a royal inhibition which was ifiued out, they held an extraordinary Diet Vol. I. 4P at 6 5 S POLAND. [Courland. at Mit tau, about the latter end of June 1726, in which the fucceflion, on the deceafe of Ferdinand, was fettled on Count Maurice of Saxony, as natural fon to the King of Poland, and his male heirs. This election was not only oppofed by Duke Ferdinand; but the Poles, in a Diet held at Grodno in 1727, voted it null and void ; and by a new law confirmed the intended union of this country with Poland at the death of Ferdinand. Againft this incroachment on their liberties, the Courland patriots ftrenuoufly pro- tefted, and maintained, c That the States of the Dutchy derived from ' their anceftors the right of electing their Duke ; and that they had not " forfeited that right, notwithstanding all the attempts of the Diet.' They appealed to the compact of fubjeclion, wherein it was acknowleged and declared, that Courland fhould for ever be accounted a mediate German Government, and confequently was impowered in a cafe of neceffity to elect its own Duke. But to proceed in our hiftory of Courland. Anne Iwanowna, having, on the demife of Peter II. in 1730, afcended the throne of Rußa, Duke Fer- dinand, who was then in the feventy-fifth year of his age, married Johanna Magdalena princefs of Saxe-Weijfenfels ; and this Prince is (till living. Fer- dinand, in the perfon of his envoy Frederick Goihard von Buloiv, received the ufual inveftiture from the King of Poland at JVarfaw in 173 1 : But, being unwilling to truft himfelf in a country which he knew to be irritat- ed againft him, he never took actual poffefiion of Courland. In the mean time, on the death of Augußus II. King of Poland, the Czarina Amie ordered her troops to march into Courland, which flie looked upon as very con- venient tor erecting a place of arms and forming part of the magazines. That Princefs had before, in the year 1732, fignified to the Court of Poland, that fhe could never confent to the abfolute incorporation of the Dutchy with that kingdom ; but would protect it in its rights to remain as a fief of the Republic under its own Dukes. The Republic of Polatid, at length, conformed to this propofal, and in the Pacification Diet held at JVarfaw in 1736, it was decreed that, on the failure of the Ketler line in Duke Ferdinand, the Dutchy of Courland fhould have its own Dukes by the free election of the States. In the following year, on the deceafe of Ferdinand, the States, at the recommendation of the Emprefs of Ruß'a, chofe for their Duke John Eniefi Biron, Count of the Holy Roman Empire, and High Chamberlain to her Czarifh Majefty, whofe election was accordingly confirmed in 1737, in a Senatüs Conjilium at Frauenßadt ; and this was followed in 1 739 by the ufual inveftiture of the new Duke in the perfon of his Envoy or reprefentative. But this Prince's dignity was but of a fliort continuance ; for the Czarina Anne, in 1740, caufed him and all his family to be taken into cuftody, and ferit them into exile in 1741. He is ftill living at larojlaw, where he rbfides in a fmall ftone houfe confiding of three rooms, with a wooden hot (e ad- joining Courlancl.] POLAND. joining to it for his lady and two fons. He is allowed to hunt within thirty werßs of Iaroflaiu, and very frequently makes ufe of that Indulgence. He has ailb a German domeftic chaplain, who is paid by the Crown. He openlv correfponds with fome of his few friends; and the Regency of Mittau e\ ery year fend him a congratulating letter, which he anlwers in the ftile of Duke, and affixes the leal of the Dutchy to it. In 1 74 1, the States of Coitrland chofe for their Duke Lewis Rmeß Duke of Brunfwic Wcifenbuttle, brother to the Regent of Raßa's hulband ; but as this election was not compafled without force, it has not yet taken its pro- per effccl. §. 7. The prefent ftatc of Courland is very much confufed and perplexed. The Burghers and Peafants in general are extremely opprcfTed ; but the greateft part of the Nobility are in very flourifhing circumltances. The latter reap vaft emoluments by farming the Ducal lands and manors at a very low rate ; and confequently are lb far from having the Duke's releafment at heart, that it is greatly for their intereit that this confuiion, under the falfe pretence of the vacancy of the ducal chair, fhould continue : The felri/h Majori/is, or the Great Party, as they are called, have, together with their chief, hitherto fomented the diffractions of the ltate, virulently inveighed againft the Supreme Council and Burghers of the towns, and lo far embroiled the inhabitants that the real good of the country was no longer thought of. The King of Poland has, indeed from time to lime, endeavoured to affvvage thefe diffentions, by letters written in the moft perfuaiive and preffing manner, nor have the High Council and thehoneft part of the Nobility been wanting in feconding his Majefty's exhortations ; but the oppofite party by violent and illegal meafures have always fruftrated their good intentions. At length, two fevere royal refcripts were fent hither in the year 1752, in which the King of Poland threatened them, in cafe of any further oppoiition, with a judicial enquiry, and confequently with a Polijb commiffion. This fo far humbled the Majorijis, that in a Diet held in the month of July * : they readily united with the High-Council and the other part of the No- bility. But it is apprehended, that as this union is the effect of fear, it will hardly reconcile the jarring tempers and inclinations of the two parties; and on the very firft opportunity, the former animoiitics will probably revive. The court of Raffia keeps in this country 6000 men, and a pleni- potentiary who refides at Mittau ; but his only_employment is to care take of the revenues. During the banilhment of Duke Enicji 'John, that court lays claim to the Ducal revenues, and thole lands which the faid Duke had either purchafed, or redeemed from the Nobles, to whom they had been mortgaged ; alledging, that all this was done by imbezzclments of monies be- longing to that Crown, and accordingly near 100,000 i:\xdollars anfing from * In the year 1752, I fuppofe. 4 P 2 . the '59 66o P L A N D. [Courland. the farms are paid every year out'of the Ducal revenues into the hands of this Ruffian Minifter. Another demand the court of Ruffta makes on Courland, is for the dowery of Princefs Anne, and the jointure of 40,000 rubels fettled on her by her deceafed hufband. Nor will its vicinity to Rußa permit the Czarina to be indifferent with regard to the election of a Duke of Courland. Thefe, and other circumftances, obnrucT: the election of a new Duke, which indeed would be otherwife invalid ; as Ernefl John does not ceafe to be Duke, though, by his exile, hebe deprived of the exercife of his power. Be this as it will, the Ducal chair having been declared vacant by the High-Council, all public instruments are iffued out in the name of the King of Poland, who at prefent perfonates the Duke, and are figned by the four lords of the Regency ; and thefe Regents, by virtue of the inftiu- ment of government, have the difpofal of public employments. §. 8. The arms of Courland are quarterly, the firft and fourth Argent, a lion Gules, crowned Or, for Courland-, the fecond and third Azure, a demi-elk crowned proper, for Semigallia. In the centre is a fmall inefcut- cheon party per pale which is referved for the particular coat of the Ducal family. The arms are within a Ducal mantle of purple and ermine, and Supported by two lions crowned Or ; and the whole is furmounted with a Ducal coronet. §. 9. The revenues of the Duke of Courland are faid to be very consider- able, and the Ducal demefnes make above a third part of the whole coun- try : If to thefe we add the convenient lituation of the country for a mari- time trade, the Duke of Courland cannot fail of being very rich if he is a good oeconomift. We may form fome judgment of the wealth of this Dutchy if we confider, that James Duke of Courland was mafter of forty- four (hips of war and feventy-five merchant-fhips ; and endeavoured to fettle colonies in other parts of the world, eipecially in America, at a vaft expence. In war time, when this country was opprefled by the exactions of foreigners, the Ducal houfe has always furnifhed one third of the contributions: But the Nobility have been fo far from thinking this Sufficient for his quota, that they propofed to appoint a court of enquiry to infpedt into the affair, and called it by the name of Hadken-Revifion. However, the Dukes have always found means to fet afide fuch an inquifition. §. 10. By virtue of the instrument, or form, of Government for the Dutchies of Courland and Semigallia, which was drawn up in 1670 by a commiflion from the King of Poland, the following officers of State are appointed in Courland. \ . Four High-Counfellors, namely, a Steward, a Chancellor, a Burg- grave, and a MarfhaL 2. Two Courland.] POLAND. 661 2. Two Civilians, or Doctors, as they are called ; and thefe are the Duke's Council. The High Council, during the abfence, minority, or ficknefs, and upon the demife of the Duke, adminiftcr juftice,. iflue orders, pais decrees, and tranfact all other State-affairs in his name. 3. Four Superior Prefects ; namely, two for Semigallia, who reilde at Mittau and Seelburg, and two for Courland, at Goldingen and fuckiim. Thefe adminfter juftice in the jirß Inßance both to the Nobles and Com- monalty within their refpective jurifdicYions. From thefe the vacancies in the High Council are filled up ; and under each of them are two inferior Prefects, who, upon occafion, are promoted by the Duke to the office of Superior Prefe&s. From the court of the latter appeals lie to the Ducal Supreme court, where the Duke aiiifts in perfon together with the High Council. This is held twice a year, and from it, in caufes amounting to above fix hundred Florins, an appeal lies to the King of Poland. The criminal caufes of the Nobility are decided in the Ducal Supreme Court to which the four fuperior Prefects are fummoned as AfTeffors. However an appeal lies to the King, except in cafes of wilful murder, burning of houfes, robbery, rapes, or open violence. Ecclefiaftical caufes are tried by the Chan- cellor, affifted by the Superintendent and four Provofts. If any difputes happen to arife between the Duke and Nobility, they are decided only by the King in perfon. The adminiftration of juftice in the towns belongs either to the magiftrate, or the Prefect of the Diftrict in which the Defendant lives, according to the nature of the caufe; and the fecond and laft Inßance, or hearing, is at the Ducal Court. Suits relating to debts are heard by officers calied Executoriales. Every two years a Diet is held at Mittau, to which every parifli fends a representative with full powers. §. 11. This Dutchy confifts of three Parts or Divifions, namely, Cour- land properly lb called, Seniigallia, and the Diftridt of Pilten. The laft has a particular form of government ; but the two firft Parts are divided into Gber-hauptmannfckaften or Prefectures ; and thefe into certain Circles, or Diftricts, called Kirchfpiele or Parifhes. There are Great and Little Towns, large and fmall Seats ; and likewife caftles, farm houfes, inns, and fingle houfes of accommodation in this country : But, as for fuch villages as are feen in Germany and other countries, here are none. The number of towns, caftles, feats, &c. is about nine hundred. We fhall now proceed to defcribe the above-mentioned Divifions. C U R- POLAND. COURLAND, properly fo called. THIS is the firft Divifion and includes, I. The Prefecture of Goldingen, which confifts of nine pariflies ; and thefeare as follows. i. The Parifli of Goldingen, in which die places of note are, Goldingen, a fmall town with an old caftle on the river Windau, which forms a water-fall in this place. It was formerly a town of good trade ; and as the Dukes fometimes refide here, it is a place of good entertainment. There is a Lutheran and a Poliß church in this town. It was built by Diterich of Groningen, third Grand Marter of the Teutonic Order. Here is a Ducal manor. Eden, an iron-work, with a copper flatting-mill. 2. The Parifh of Windau. In this parifli lies The town of Windau, on a river of the fame name, which here falls into the Baltic. It is of a moderate extent, and has a good harbour ; here was formerly alfo a dock for building men of war. This town was for fometime the refidence of the Grand Mafter of the Teutonic Order ; and the Diets and other public aflemblies were held here. Rohthof is a Ducal manor in this parifli. 3. The Pariih of Alfchwang, in which is Aljclmangen a caftle with a town near it. 4. The Parifli of Hafenpoth, in which lies, Hafenpoth, a market-town, with an old caftle which ftands on a hill, op- pofite to another caftle of the fame name in the Diftrict of Pilten. 5. The Parifli of Durben, in which are the following places of note. Durben, a fmall mean town with an old caftle and a church. Libau, a Ducal city, and a port of good trade on the Baltic, which is of a middling bignefs, and confifts entirely of wooden houfes but one ftory high; It was built by the Lettonians ; and is laid to derive its name from the Lettonian word Leepaja, i. e. a piece of ground planted with linden trees ; for a great number of thofe trees formerly grew here : and, to this day, the Lettonians call the town Leepaja. So early as the thirteenth century, there were fome Germans among the inhabitants of this town ; and at the clofe of the fifteenth, and the beginning of the fifteenth century, it greatly flouriflied, ■when a great number of Germans reforted hither ; and it obtained the privi- leges of a city in 1625. The old Lutheran city-church falling to decay in 1742, a foundation was laid in another place for the new-church, which is built in the modern Italian tafte with a flat roof and a baluftrade. The town lchool confifts of three clafies, and has a mafter for writing and 1 arithmetic. Courland.] POLAND. 66 arithmetic. The Papifts are alfo allowed a church at Libau. As the harbour has not a fufficient depth of water for (hips of burden, they are un- loaded in the road ; but fince Duke Erneß John, in 1737, caufed it to be cleared, and the future accumulation of mud and fand to be prevented by a water-work, it is rendered very commodious for light veffels. Above one hundred and fifty fliips ufually arrive in this port in a twelve-month, tu load with hemp, lin-feed, &c. A Strandvogtey or court of admiral' y i held here. Near the town is a frefh water-lake which derives its name from it. 6. The Parifli of Gramfden. In this parifh the only place of note is Gramjden church, of which the Nobility are the patrons. 7. The Parifh of G robin, in which lies Grobin, a fmall town, with a caftle. The place called Heiligen Aa, or Holy Aa, with a church and Court of Admiralty, lies on a river of the fame name, which is alfo the boundary betwixt Courland and Samogitia. 8. The Parifh of Schrunden, in which lies Schrunden, with a ruinous caftle and a church. 9. The Parifh of Frauenburg. In this Parifh lies Frauenburg, which has a decayed caftle and a church, and is a Ducal manor. Note. To this Prefecture belong two ecclefiaftical Provoftfliips, viz. Go/ding, containing twelve churches of which the Duke is patron, and nine in the gift of the Nobility ; and Grübln, which contains (even churches of which the Duke is patron, and nine belonging to the Nobility. II. The Prefecture of Tuck um, containing the following parifhes. 1. The Parifh of Tuckum, in which lies a fmall town of the fame name, with a ruinous caftle. 2. The Parifli of Candau, which contains Candau, a fmall town on the river Abau, with a ruined caftle and a Ducal manor. Angem, a fmall place with a church and iron-works. 3. The Parifli of Zobeln, in which lies Zobeln on the river Abau, with fome remains of a caftle. 4. The Parifh of Taljen, in which lies Tal fen, with a church. 5. The Parifli of Autzi. Note. To this Prefecture belongs the Provoftfhip of Candau, which has ecclefiaftical jurifdiction over nine Ducal churches, and fourteen in the gift of the Nobility. Semi- 664- POLAND. SEMIGAL L I A or SE MGAL LEN. / "T" S HIS is the fecond principal Divifion, and includes the following Pre- ■* fectures. 1. The Prefecture of Mittau, confuting of nine Parifhes ; and thefe are, i . The Parifh of Mittau, in which lies Mittau, in Latin Mitovia, the capital of Courland and refidence of the Duke. It ftands on the river Aa, and is an extenfive town, but within its circuit contains a great many gardens and open places or areas. The houfes, for the moft part, have no particular elegance to attract the eye ; and the walls and moats of the town are decayed : However, it is pretty well inhabited. Here are two Lutheran churches, a beautiful Calviniftical church, com- plcated in the year 1740, and a Popifh church. This city is alfo the feat of the Regency and Superintendant of both Dutchies. The town- fchool, though it is the principal in the whole country, is at prelent far from being in a flourifhing condition. Juft without the city ftands a palace begun by the unfortunate Duke "Erließ John-, but of this edifice only the facade of one wing is compleated, the reft is hardly carried up as high as the roof. It is built in a moft delightful fituation, on the fame fpot where the old caftle ftood, and is two ftories high. This palace, according to the plan of it, would probably have been one of the moft magnificent ftru&ures in all Europe, had not the building of it been interrupted by the difgrace and exile of its unhappy founder. It is, at prelent, a defolate place, and is gradually falling to decay. The cielings and floors of fome of the apartments were of a moft exquifite workmanfhip; but thefe have been taken away, and the rooms converted into granaries. There is a handfome vault under one wing of this building, in which the remains of the deceafed Dukes are depofited. Moft of them lie in coffins of fine pewter, curiouily decorated ; and among thefe Princes lies a peafant alfo in a pewter coffin, as a recompence for his heroic fidelity in voluntarily fuffering himfelf to be fhot inftead of Duke Ferdinand by fome noblemen, who had confpired againft the life of that Prince. Annenburg, a town with a caftle, lies alfo in this Parifh. 2. The Parifh of Ekau. The principal place in this Parifh is Ekau, which ftands on a river of the fame name, and has a church. 3. The Parifh of Ba/donen, in which lies Baldonen, a church-town. 4. The Parifh of Neugut, in which lies Neugut, a fmall town with a church. 5. The Parifh of Sefau, in which the only place of note is Sejfau, which ftands on a river of the lame name, and has a church. 6. The Semigaliia.] POLAND. 665 6. The Parifh of Bauße, in which lies Bauße, betwixt the rivers Main and Mummel. It has a caflle built on a rock, wh ich is called Bamkcnburg, and a Ducal manor. Near Great and Little Barbern is a fpring of mineral water. 7. The Parifh of Greujhof, in which the principal place is Gren/l.'of, which has a church. 8. The Parifh of Doblehn. The principal place in this pariih is Doblehn, an old caftle, with a Ducal manor and a church. 9. The Parifh of Neuenbürgs in which lies Neuenbürgs a caftle, with a church of which the Nobility are the pa- trons. Note. To this Prefecture belong three Provoftfliips ; namely, that of Mittau, containing eight churches of which the Duke is Patron, and one in the gift of the Nobility ; that of Bauße with eleven Ducal and five Noble churches; and the Provoftmip of Doblelm with nine churches in the gift of the Duke ; and fifteen of which the Nobility are patrons. II. The Prefecture of Seelburg, which includes the four following parifhes. 1 . The Parifh of Afcheraden, in which lies Afcheraden, an old palace on the river Dwina. 2. The Parifli of Seelburg, in which the only place of note is Seelburg, a fmall town and caftle on the river Dwina, where the Bifhope of Semigaliia formerly refided : Hence they were ftiled Bifhops of Seelburg. It appears from an ancient inftrument dated in the year 1245, that when the Arbifhoprick of Riga was founded, all Semigaliia, except the third part which belonged to the Knights of the Teutonic Order, was afligned to the faid Archbifhoprick ; and that the bifhopric of Semigaliia or Seelbur* was abolifhed. 3. The Parifh of Nerften, in which are, The caftle and church of Nerften. The Nobility are patrons of the latter. 4. The Parifh of Dunaburg, in which lies Danaburg, a caftle on the river Dwina. Note. To the Provoftfhip of See/burg belong ten churches in the gift of the Duke, and twenty-three in that of the Nobility. VoL.h 40^ The 666 POLAND. The District of P I L T E N. Hp H I S is the third diviiion, which was anciently called the Diocefe •*■ of Courland, and lies in Courland properly fo called. It derives its name from the ancient caftle or palace of Pilten, built by Waldemar II. King of Denmark, about the year 1220, when he founded a Bifhop's See in this country for the more effe&ual converfion of its Pagan inhabitants. For when that Prince afked the Bifhop, whole refidence it was defigned to be, Where the palace fhould (land ? the latter made anfwer, ' Where « Pilten, i. e. the boy, ftands ;' and this name was given to the palace. The diocefe of Pilten, fome years after, together with all Courland fell into the hands of the Germans, who continued in pofleffion of it till the year 1559; when the laft Bifhop, from a dread of the incurfions of the Ruffians, fold both the diocefes of Pilten and Oefel to Frederick II. King of Denmark. That Monarch exchanged Pilten and Oefel with his brother Magnus for his fhare of Holfiein ; who took poffeffion of it in 1560, fecu- larized the bifhoprick, and diftributed very considerable parcels of its lands to his friends and followers. Gothard Ketler, having in the following year rendered Livonia fubject to the crown of Poland, it was agreed that Duke Magnus, inflead of the diocefe of Courland, mould have the caftle of Son- neburg in Oefel; but that the former fhould be reiigned to Ketler, the new Duke. However, at the demife of Duke Magnus, which happened in the year 1583, the inhabitants of the Diftrict of Pilten, inftead of fub- mitting again to the Duke of Courland, or the King of Poland, put them- felves under the protection of Denmark. Thefe contefts at laft fubfided ; and matters were adjufted by Po- lands buying off the claim of King Frederick II. to this country, for 30,000 rix-dollars. This fum was advanced by George Frederick, Duke ot Prujjia and Margrave of Brandenburg, to whom this country was mortgaged by Poland in 1585. The inhabitants, at the fame time, were allowed the free exercife of the Evangelical or Lutheran religion. In 1617, Herman May del, a Courlandifit Nobleman, paid off the mortgage; and Pilten was granted to him by the King of Poland, with the title of a Staroßa. In 1556, Duke Jacob redeemed it from May del, and in the fame year purchafed it alfo of the Swedes, who had poffeffed themfelves of this Diftiicf. Upon this, the Nobility of Pilten acknowledged him for their Lord, but foon after revolted, and continued refractory till the yean 66 1 ; when, at the convention of Grobin concluded on the twenty-fifth of Fe- bruary in that year, they again fubmitted upon very advantageous conditions to Frederick Cajimir. The completion of this agreement was a work of twenty years. By this compact the Diftri<ä of Pilten had a particular Pre- 4 fed Pilten.] POLAND. 667 fed: appointed for it, who refided at Hafenpoth ; and under him are fix CounleJlors and the Under-Prefect of Ncuhaujen. By virtue of the In- strument of Regency drawn up for this Diftiicl: in the year 17 17, the Government is lodged in (even Pclißj Senators or Counfellors, from whom an appeal lies only to the King. The Bifhop of Samogitia ftiies himfelf alfo Bilhop of Pilten. This Diftrict includes the feven following Parifhes. 1. The Parifli of Hasenpoth, in which are, Hafenpoth, a fmall town with a ruinous caftle, a convent, and a du- cal manor. 2. The Parifli of Neuhausen. 3. The Parifli of Sackenhausen, in which ftands a caflle of the fame name. 4. The Parifh of Amboten, in which Hands Amboten, a caftle built on a mountain. 5. The Parilh of Pilten, in which are, Pilten, a fmall town on the river Windau. It has a caftle, and is a Staroßey. Angermund, which has an old decayed caftle. 6. The Parifli of Dondangen, in which are the following remarkable places. Dondangen, a caftle, the revenues of which were formerly afligned for the Archbilhop of Riga's table. It was afterwards purchafed by one of the Bifhops of Pilten. In the year 1561, it came into the hands of Magnus Duke of Holßein, who mortgaged it together with feveral other eftates ; and, after a long train of viciffitudes, it lately devolved to Lieutenant- Colonel John XJlrick von Sacken, whofe fon is the prefent proprietor of it. Ten villages belong to this eftate, among which is Anßruppen, remarkable for an excellent medicinal fpring. Domeßiefs, a promontory, called by the Dutch fiilors de curßche Vorß van de blaue berg, i. e. ' the Courland Prince of the blue mountain', projects northward into the gulf of Livonia. From this cape a land-bank runs four German miles further into the fea, the extreme half of which lies under water and cannot be difcerned. To the eaft of this promontory is an unfathomable abyfs, which is never obferved to be agitated. For the fafety of veffels bound to Livonia, two fquare beacons have been erected on the coaft, near Domeßneßs church, oppofite to the fand-bank and facing each other. One of thefe is twelve fathoms high ; but the other is only eight fathoms and a half. A large fire is kept burning all night on thofe beacons from the firft of Augufl to the firft of 'January, old ftile. When the mariners fee thefe two fires appear as one in a direct line, they may conclude that they are clear of the extremity of the fand-bank, and confequently out of danger ; but if they have a light of both beacons, they are in danger of running 653 POLAND. [Pilten. running upon it. The quantity of wood burnt on thefe beacons amounts annually to betwixt eight and nine hundred cords of billet?, and one hundred cords of brum wood. They belong to Dondangen., a Nobleman's eftate, which lies about fix German miles from the beacons ; and he receives every year from the city of Riga 2500 rix-dollars in fpecie for keeping them up and fupplying them with fuel. The large wood that grows in this neighbourhood is very convenient for furnifhing a fuffkient quantity of fuel for this purpofe. The inhabitants are allowed to trade with the Hol- landers ; and the ftrand belonging to the manor of Dondangen is eleven German miles in length. 7. The Pariih of Erwählen, which is annexed to that of Pilten. This Erivhalen is called Great Erivhalen by way of diftinction from another place of the fame name in the Parifti of Tuckum. End of the First Volume. UNIVERSITY OF CAT TFO^.—' Unwersity of Camomla SOUTHERN RMlOJfyjJJ^ „««.,386 Form I I 1 II Hu II in i D 000 350 193 Stack Annex Uil 6nE v.l PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE THIS BOOK qARD University Research Library a a * \