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 RAMBLES IN ISTRIA, DALMATIA, 
 
 AND 
 
 MONTENEGRO.
 
 RAMBLES m ISTRIA, 
 
 DALMATIA AND MONTENEGRO. 
 
 BY. 
 
 K H. R. 
 
 " Dirvi ch' io sia, saria parlar indarno." — dante. 
 
 IN ONE VOLUME. 
 
 LONDON: 
 HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS. 
 
 13, GREAT MAELBOROUGH STREET. 
 1875. 
 
 All rights reserved.
 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 VERY year more and more is the con- 
 stantly recurring question ever put 
 "Where shall we go to this Summer?" 
 and every year the field for selection gets narrower 
 and narrower. 
 
 In writing the following pages, my object has 
 been less to make a book than to point out to those 
 who are tired of the old beaten tracks, countries 
 within easy reach of London, but seldom visited, 
 and quite outside the lines affected by the typical 
 tourist: — countries where at moderate expense and 
 with total freedom from danger they may enjoy new
 
 vi Preface. 
 
 scenery, receive fresh impressions, acquire new 
 information ; and if by so doing I shall have 
 suggested to others one more field for exploration 
 that shall afford them half the enjoyment which I 
 experienced during my wanderings, I shall consider 
 myself very amply rewarded. 
 
 r#
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 A CONVERSATION — WHERE SHALL WE GO FOR A HOLIDAY TRIP 
 — ATTRACTIONS OP LAPLAND — REMINISCENCES OE ITALY — 
 THE GRAND TOUR IN FORMER DAYS — HOW TO STUDY HISTORY 
 — DIFFICULTY OF FINDING NEW GROUND FOR TRAVEL— AN 
 INTERESTING COUNTRY WITHIN FIVE DAYS OF TEMPLE 
 BAR ........ 1 
 
 CHAPTER 11. 
 
 MAN PROPOSES, BUT GOD DISPOSES— VIENNA— ST. STEPHEN S 
 CATHEDRAL — OLD CATHEDRALS — SANTA MARIA DEL FIORE 
 — USES OF EAU DE COLOGNE — INSECT ATTACKS — THE UNI- 
 VERSAL EXHIBITION— THE GARDENS AND ACCESSORIES — 
 THE LADIES OP VIENNA — NEW OPERA-HOUSE — ON THE 
 DANUBE— A WEALTHY PRELATE— WISSEGRAD— ARRIVAL AT 
 PESTH ....... 14
 
 viii ' Contents. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 PESTH— HOTEL UNGAEIA— BTJDA— STORY OF AN ARTIST— PROS- 
 PERITY OF THE CITY — NEW BRIDGE OVER THE DANUBE — 
 ST. MARGTTERITE'S ISLAND— ANCIENT ROMAN BATH — CON- 
 DITION OP HUNGARY — FIELD FOR THE JUNIOR BRANCHES 
 OF THE UPPER TEN THOUSAND— KEEPING UP APPEARANCES 
 — THE TERMINATION OF TURKISH MISRULE— FUTURE OF 
 THE DANUBIAN PRINCIPALITIES . . . .29 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 STEINBRUCK — THE SOMMERING — FIRST VIEW OF THE ADRIATIC 
 — TRIESTE — SHOCKS OF EARTHQUAKE AT BELLUNO — AUSTRIAN 
 IRONCLAD 'LISSA' — CAPTAIN R. BURTON— FLYING " VISIT TO 
 SAN CANZIANO — SUBTERRANEAN COURSE OF A MOUNTAIN 
 STREAM — THE KARST— WILD SCENERY— A THUNDER-STORM — 
 CHURCH OF SAN CANZIANO— STUD FARM . . 43 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 THE "SAN carlo" AND HER PASSENGERS — A DALMATIAN'S 
 REMARKS ON THE PRESERVATION OF HEALTH IN INDIA — 
 DALMATIAN DIGGERS FROM AUSTRALIA— COAST OF ISTRIA — 
 PIRANO— CATHEDRAL OF PARENZO — ROVIGNO— POLA — THE 
 AMPHITHEATRE — PICTURESQUE SIGHT — GIOVANNI AS- 
 
 TONISHED — MONTENEGRIN COSTUME — ZARA — EXTREME 
 HEAT ........ 61
 
 Contents. ix 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM ZAEA — SEBENICO — PLEASANT COMPANIONS — 
 NOBLE HARBOUR — THE CATHEDRAL — CURIOUS ROOF — CORAL 
 FISHERY — SPALATO — SALONA — DIOCLETIAN'S PALACE — MR. 
 PATON'S description of it — BEAUTIFUL SPECTACLE— THE 
 PORTA FERREA — QUAINT DWELLINGS — AMBROSIAL TO- 
 BACCO . ....... 79 
 
 CHAPTER Vn. 
 
 A TYPE OF SHYLOCK — SCENE IN THE STREET — VARIED COSTUMES 
 — MORLACCHI — TURKS PROM THE HERZEGOVINA — WOMEN OF 
 SPALATO — INSPECTION OF THE CITY — THE PORTA AUREA — 
 COURT OF THE VESTIBULE OF THE PALACE — INTERIOR OP 
 THE CATHEDRAL— ILLUSTRIOUS MEN OF SPALATO— MARK 
 ANTONY DE DOMINIS — ST. JEROME — THE MORLACCHI . 94 
 
 CHAPTER Vni. 
 
 ISLAND OF LISSA— NAVAL BATTLES— A BRIDAL PARTY TAKEN ON 
 BOARD — LESINA— FORTRESS OF SAN NICOLO— THE LOGGIE — 
 FORT SPAGNUOLO — ISLAND OF CURZOLA— LA CHROMA— BEAU- 
 TIFUL SCENE — RICHARD CffiUR DE LION — CATHEDRAL OF 
 RAGUS A— EARTHQUAKE OF 1667— TERRIBLE CONFLAGRATION 
 — PRINCE MAXIMILIAN . . . . • 107
 
 Contents. 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 THE PADRE ANSELMO— HIS LIFE AND LABOURS AMONG THE 
 AMERICAN INDIANS— THE PIONEERS OF CIVILIZATION — AME- 
 RICAN INDIANS AND NEGROES — PADRE ANSELMO ON PRO- 
 TESTANT AND CATHOLIC MISSIONS— NATIVE CHRISTIANS IN 
 
 INDIA — POPE PIUS IX. ONCE A MISSIONARY- CARDINAL P . 
 
 — PORT OF GRAVOSA— RAGUSA . . . .125 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 ATTRACTIONS OP DALMATIA — INTERESTING EXCURSION — ISLAND 
 OF LACHROMA — CLIMATE — A. A. PATON, ESQ., .FORMERLY 
 CONSUL-GENERAL AT RAGUSA — AN ITALIAN DINNER — EPI- 
 DAURUS — THE CANAL OP CATTARO— TERRITORY OF RAGUSA — 
 TOWER OF PERASTO AND FORT OF SANTA CROCE — STRANGELY 
 BUILT CHURCH — A PALAZZO— SAN GIORGIO AND LA MADONNA 
 —PICTURE ATTRIBUTED TO ST. LUKE . . . 141 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 CITY OF CATTARO — SIGNOR JACKSCHICH — STREETS AND PIAZZAS 
 — WALKS AND FORTIFICATIONS — PUBLIC WALK — CAFE AND 
 GARDENS — SONOROUS STONE — A MONTENEGRIN CHIEF — A 
 HAPPY BEGGAR BOY ..... 150
 
 Contents. xi 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 MONTENEGKIN TRADERS — LE SCALE DI CATTARO — A GOR- 
 GEOUSLY-ATTIRED MONK— OUR CARAVAN— MONTENEGRINS OP 
 THE prince's body-guard — INTERESTING VIEW — ABSENCE 
 OP TREES ON THE DALMATIAN COAST— A HOME POR GERMAN 
 EMIGRANTS— TURKISH MISRULE IN EUROPE — A FUTURE EM- 
 PIRE — A MAN PIT TO RULE .... 164 
 
 CHAPTER Xm. 
 
 THE PRINCE OP MONTENEGRO — UNJUST DEPRIVATION OF TER- 
 RITORY — ORIGIN OP THE NAME OP THE COUNTRY —A FRIEND 
 IN NEED— VILLAGE OP NIEGOSCH — PANORAMA SEEN FROM 
 THE TOP OP THE PASS — WILD-LOOKING HERDS AND FLOCKS 
 — MONTENEGRIN LEGEND — ARRIVAL AT CETTIGNE — THE 
 VLADIKA'S PALACE — THE TREE OF JUSTICE— TOWER OF CET- 
 TIGNE ....... 177 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 INSECT POWDER OP MONTENEGRO— DESCRIPTION OP THE MO- 
 NASTERY—ENCAMPMENTS — FESTIVAL OF ST. PETER— A SAINT 
 BY THE WILL OF THE PEOPLE — PICTURESQUE SCENE — 
 BOSNIAN CAFE— THE NATIONAL INSTRUMENT— A TRAVELLED 
 DALMATIAN — TALL MONTENEGRINS . • • 1^4
 
 xii Contents. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 A POLYGLOT JUMBLE— WAR CUSTOMS OP THE MONTENEGRINS 
 — DEATH IN BATTLE — FORAYS FOR THE PLUNDER OF CATTLE 
 — EQUIPAGE OF A MONTENEGRIN SOLDIER — PILLAGE — 
 MANNER OF FIGHTING— TACTICS— SIGNAL CRIES— ON BOARD 
 SHIP— DECAPITATION OF WOUNDED PRISONERS . . 208 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 BATTLE BETWEEN TURKS AND MONTENEGRINS — ADDRESS OF 
 PRINCE MIRKO — HIS PERSONAL APPEARANCE AND CHARACTER 
 — THE PROJECTS OP PRINCE DANIELO — PRINCE NICHOLAS I. 
 — SPORT IN MONTENEGRO — INTERVIEW WITH THE PRINCE 
 AND PRINCESS — NATIONAL COSTUME — SPLENDID ILLUMINA- 
 TION . . . . . . . . 218 
 
 CHAPTER XVn. 
 
 A WALK WITH THE PRINCE — SALUTATIONS OP THE CROWD — 
 THE GUZLA — MONTENEGRIN DANCE — THE PRINCE'S ACCOUNT . 
 OF ITS ORIGIN — THE CAMP AT NIGHT — ADVENTURE WITH A 
 MONTENEGRIN — DEVOTION OF THE PEOPLE TO THEIR 
 PRINCE ....... 235 
 
 CHAPTER XVin. 
 
 FALSE IMPRESSIONS OP MONTENEGRO — AGRICULTURE ON A 
 MINOR SCALE— FIELD-LABOURERS— MONTENEGRIN FACCHINI 
 AT CONSTANTINOPLE — FEMALE LABOUR -^ PRODUCTION OF 
 SUMACH — COMMERCIAL RELATIONS WITH OTHER COUNTRIES 
 IMPEDED— IMPOSING PAGEANT .... 248
 
 Contents. xiii 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 FOOT RACES — MONASTERY OP OSTROG — OTTOMAN ADMINISTRA- 
 TION — A COITRSE A LA MONTAGNE — RACING WITHOUT BETTING 
 — BEN TROVATO — A FLAT RACE — CONVERSATION ABOUT 
 ENGLISH LAWS AND CUSTOMS — LAW OF HABEAS CORPUS 258 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM CETTIGNE — RUGGED ROAD — DELIGHTFUL 
 VIEW — USEFUL OLD HELMET — NIEGOSH — EXCESSIVE HEAT 
 — THE SCALA DI CATTARO— THE BOCCHESI— THE RUSSIAN 
 CONSUL — SUNSET AT CATTARO — UNEXPECTED APPEARANCE 
 OF PERO PEJOVICH ...... 268 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 BEAUTIFUL ROAD — ATTACK OF FEVER — ARRIVAL AT BUDUA — 
 BARON HETDEG AND SIGNOR MARCO MEDIN — A RESTAURANT 
 — OUR HOST— DOCTOR, DENTIST AND APOTHECARY — WALK 
 ROUND THE FORTIFICATIONS— EXPLORATION OP BUDUA — 
 THE PARTING GLASS ..... 280 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 TOWN OP ANTIVARI — FIRST IMPRESSIONS OP TURKEY — ORIENTAL 
 PASSENGERS — VALUE OF A KNOWLEDGE OF ARABIC OR 
 TURKISH — A MAHOMETAN MERCHANT AND HIS FAMILY — 
 TURKISH TROOPS IN ALBANIA — TOWN AND FORTRESS OF 
 CASTEL DURAZZO — RETURN TO TRIESTE— FAREWELL TO THE 
 READER ....... 291
 
 RAMBLES IN ISTRIA, DADIATIA, 
 
 MONTENEGRO. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 A CONVERSATION— WHERE SHALL WE GO FOR A HOLIDAY TRIP 
 — ATTRACTIONS OF LAPLAND — REMINISCENCES OF ITALY — 
 THE GRAND TOUR IN FORMER DAYS— HOW TO STUDY HISTORY 
 — DIFFICULTY OF FINDING NEW GROUND FOR TRAVEL— AN 
 INTERESTING COUNTRY WITHIN FIVE DAYS OF TEMPLE BAR. 
 
 ET US go to Lapland !" was the 
 exclamation which rang on my ear, 
 as I was entering my club, one 
 fine morning in the early part of June, 1873. 
 
 " Lapland !" said I, " what put that into your 
 head?"
 
 2 Shall we go to Lapland? 
 
 " Yes," replied my friend M , in his rich, good- 
 humoured voice, slightly flavoured with Hibernian 
 Doric. "I hear that somebody has written a 
 book about it. I have been everywhere else 
 in Europe — and it is quite the place to go to 
 now, you know. We shall pic-nic on Cape North 
 and then drive across to Spitzbergen in reindeer 
 sledges on the ice, it will be awfully jolly !" 
 and his joyous laugh echoed through the hall. 
 " Do come, like a good fellow," said he, " there 
 will be just the four of us, R , C , your- 
 self; and I, and you really must not say no, for 
 we none of us can speak a word of anything 
 but English, while you speak every language 
 under the sun. So agree to it at once ; let us 
 all meet here to dinner, to-morrow at six, and then 
 off by the mail to Calais." 
 
 At first I thought that M was chaffing ; 
 
 but having now been joined by R and 
 
 C , who at once chimed in on the same 
 
 subject, I said, 
 
 " Have you any idea about Lapland, my 
 
 dear M , do you know anything about it ? 
 
 and what do you expect to see there ?"
 
 Out of the Beaten Traah. 3 
 
 "Oh, dear me, yes," replied he, "it is a 
 country in the North of Europe, surrounded on 
 all sides either by land or by water, and in- 
 habited by men who are four feet six high, and the 
 darlingest little women just four feet nothing. 
 They go to church on Sundays, riding on rein- 
 deer, and shoot Polar bears with bows and 
 arrows ! Oh dear, yes, 1 know all about Lap- 
 land." 
 
 " Not at all a bad account," said I, " but 
 what writes Captain Hutchinson in his book ? 
 Is his description of Lapland very capti- 
 vating ?" 
 
 " Well," answered M , " I confess I have 
 
 not read his book ; but go abroad I must, 
 London is getting too stupid, and I have been 
 everywhere else in Europe ; and I want to see 
 a country out of the beaten track, something I 
 have not yet seen." 
 
 "Now, my dear fellow," said I, "though I 
 
 have not been exactly in Lapland, I have been 
 
 ■ in Finland, and that, you know, is just next 
 
 door to it ; and knowing what the mosquitoes 
 
 are in those swampy northern latitudes, nothing
 
 4 What may he seen in Lajjiand. 
 
 could induce me to visit those countries again 
 in Summer, except for very cogent reasons 
 indeed. But come now, tell me where have 
 you been, that you say you have seen every 
 other country in Europe ?" 
 
 " Well," answered M . " I have been twice 
 
 to Italy, up and down, and done it as thoroughly 
 as any man could do it. I have been — " 
 
 " Stop a wee," said I, " how have you done 
 Italy? let me see, suppose we just begin in the 
 middle, let us take Florence — no doubt you 
 were there." 
 
 " Oh dear, yes, and such a jolly place, where 
 one could live and love for ever ! oh, yes, 
 
 " ' Of all the fairest cities of the world. 
 
 None is so fair as Florence !' ' 
 
 "If it were not for the heat, and having been 
 there twice already, it would beat going to see 
 the sun at midnight, which we shall see in 
 Lapland, old fellow. We shall see the sun 
 going right round the horizon, neither rising 
 nor setting — not a bit — but going just as 
 in the old riddle we had when we were 
 children, * going round and round the house, and
 
 Florence. 5 
 
 never touching the house.' So now no more 
 * shirking and lurking,' but let's be off to 
 Lapland, and if there are a few mosquitoes, we 
 can take plenty of flea-powder to protect us ; 
 there now, I'll stand the flea-powder — a whole 
 pound's worth," and the laugh of that excellent 
 fellow rings in my ears still. 
 
 Here R joined in the conversation ; he had 
 
 never been to Italy, and his curiosity was raised 
 by the enthusiastic expressions of my friend 
 M , in regard to Florence. 
 
 " Do tell us something about that place, 
 where you could live and love for ever," said 
 he. 
 
 "Well, what can I tell you?" replied M . 
 
 " Florence was the capital of Tuscany, and is 
 situated on the banks of the river Arno, and it 
 is a most delightful place. What more do you 
 
 want ? There is the charming Mrs. , and 
 
 her equally charming daughter, whose house opens 
 just as the opera closes ; and once there, one 
 never thinks of leaving till three o'clock in 
 the morning at soonest. Then there are the 
 Cascine, the Cafe Doney, and the club, and my
 
 6 Travelling on the Continent. 
 
 friend G. M y ; and then the churches and 
 
 the galleries, and the pietre dure, &c., &c., I 
 did every one of them," 
 
 " Where did you go when you left Florence ?" 
 
 " To Rome, naturally." 
 
 " So all you know about Tuscany and Central 
 Italy resolves itself into the Cascine, the Cafe 
 
 Doney, and our friend G. M y. Did you 
 
 not even visit Siena on your way to Rome ?" 
 
 " No, for, being fond of the sea, I went to 
 Rome by Civita Vecchia." 
 
 "When you were at Civita Vecchia, did it not 
 come into your head to visit the birth-place of 
 the Tarquins— Corneto? only a short drive from 
 Civita Vecchia, and one of the most interesting 
 places in Italy." 
 
 " I never even heard of it," said M . 
 
 I was going to say ex uno disce omnes^ this is 
 how la jeunesse dore of the present time travel on 
 the continent — to finish their education, by the way ! 
 but my remark would be of too sweeping a 
 character, for there are many exceptions to be met 
 with occasionally. Still, though traveUing is multi- 
 plied a thousand-fold compared with what it used to
 
 The ''Grand Tour." 7 
 
 be even only a century ago, it is doubtful, I think, 
 if travelling is as fruitful of good results in our 
 days as it used to be in the days of our grand- 
 fathers, when, under the guidance of a well quali- 
 fied tutor, young men used to take the "grand 
 tour" with a view to completing their education, 
 the foundation and groundwork of which had been 
 laid first in our public schools, and then in 
 
 our great universities. Now my friend M 
 
 was a charming fellow, well educated to a certain 
 point, pleasant, agreeable, and good-tempered ; he 
 had travelled a good deal, and yet I may safely 
 say he had seen nothing, and simply because he 
 had not prepared himself for travelling with a 
 view to thoroughly seeing the countries he intended 
 visiting, and obtaining the information they could 
 bestow. And how many are there that just travel 
 in the same way ! How many are there among 
 those who yearly flood the approaches to the 
 Eternal City who do more than lounge about the 
 galleries, the Campo Vaccino, or the Pincian Hill ! 
 . and who, if asked about the City of Veii (for 
 instance) will simply open their eyes and say they 
 never heard of it, v/here is it ? Why, my good
 
 8 Preparation for Travelling. 
 
 fellow, Veii was a great city, and its inhabitants 
 among the most civilized and luxurious in the 
 world, long before Rome was built. What ! before 
 Rome was built ? he will say ; and then if some 
 mild reminiscence of the kind comes across his 
 memory, he may, perhaps, recall some fleeting 
 visions of Agamemnon and Mycenas, taking it 
 for granted that Veii, if anterior to Rome, must 
 have been in Greece ; but when informed that 
 Veii was the rival of Rome, that its ruins were 
 within twenty miles of the Eternal City, he will 
 possibly get angry and think you are chaffing him. 
 He, no doubt, may have heard of Etruria, but 
 probably in his mind it was jumbled up with 
 Minton's pottery ; if associated with Wedgewood, 
 it will be a point in his favour. He may probably 
 have heard of Etruscan cities and Etruscan vases, 
 but all his information in this line is terribly hazy ; 
 and so he dawdles through his sojourn at Rome, 
 goes on to Naples, perhaps to Palermo and Malta, 
 returning to England by the P. and O. steamer, 
 imagining that he has seen, or done, Italy, as he 
 terms it. 
 
 It so happened that I had made arrangements
 
 Soiv to studij History. 9 
 
 for another tour, and was thus unable to join my 
 three friends in their intended expedition ; but the 
 
 following Winter M and 1 went to the 
 
 continent together, we spent four months in Italy, 
 that Italy he had so thoroughly " done" twice 
 before ! and to his amazement, he had to confess 
 that in his previous journeys he had simply wasted 
 his time and his money. 
 
 We visited numberless out of the way places, 
 having made Florence our head-quarters for 
 Central Italy, and there under the guidance of 
 Micali's Antichi Popoli Italiani^ we dived into the 
 history of Italy, beginning with the misty periods 
 synchronous with the siege of Troy, illustrating 
 them as we went along by visits to the ancient 
 cities and cemeteries of Etruria, and thence through 
 those glorious Middle Ages and their unparalleled 
 works of art, which can nowhere be so well studied 
 as in Italy ! It was a surpassing pleasure to him, 
 no doubt, to see for the first time all those won- 
 drous things ; but it was almost as great a delight 
 to me to witness his raptures, his astonishment, 
 as city after city came under our examination — 
 Fiesole, Volterra, Chiusi, Cortona. This last.
 
 10 The Walls of Cortona. 
 
 especially, struck him with astonishment, a city 
 co-eval with Ilium, and still in our days a city 
 preserving its ancient name, while of Ilium, periere 
 ips^e ruina^ and its very existence questioned, till the 
 researches of the indefatigable Schliemann brought 
 monuments to light within the last few months 
 which have clearly identified the spot, and proved 
 to a demonstration that Ilium really had existed, 
 and that the siege of Troy was not simply a 
 myth, a poet's dream ! 
 
 I well remember helping him to measure the 
 imniense blocks of the ancient walls of Cortona, 
 fitted with such wonderful exactness' that the 
 blade of a penknife can even at present be scarcely 
 pushed in between them, and which still remain 
 in situ without mortar or other cement, though 
 probably thirty centuries have rolled on since those 
 walls were erected by the ancestors of their present 
 inhabitants. How I remember the interest he 
 took in scanning from the hill which looks over the 
 rippling water of the Trasymene Lake, pointing 
 out the probable spot where those false-hearted 
 Romans had rested whilst the battle was raging 
 below, only to be overtaken, however, on the
 
 New Ground for Travel. 1 1 
 
 morrow by Hannibal and his victorious legions, 
 who made them pay so dearly for their 
 treachery. 
 
 " This is the way I like to study history, and 
 this is the way never to forget it," said he. " I 
 hated the very names of Tacitus and Livy, but 
 how delightful I think them now !" and so we 
 did do Italy from Agrigentum to the Alps, and 
 from the Adriatic to the Mediterranean, and many 
 queer out-of-the-way places we visited, and such 
 scores of sketches we carried away ; and a 
 more delightful trip never was made before or 
 since. 
 
 Captain Hutchinson, in his introduction to 
 " Try Lapland," writes, " The difficulty of finding 
 new ground for travel is increasing every year 
 for those who, with but a limited time at their 
 disposal, are yet tired of the beaten paths of 
 Ramsgate or Scarborough, Switzerland or the Rhine, 
 and pant after lands fresh and fair, of which they 
 have never seen the photograph — where the 
 gorgeous hotel with its elongated bills, and the 
 pertinacious touter with his cringing greasy manners, 
 are alike unknown."
 
 12 With 171 Five Days of Tertvple Bar. 
 
 Now to a great extent that pleasant writer 
 is correct; but the man who rushing away from 
 the turmoil and bustle of London life, whether he 
 be lawyer, merchant, or physician, seeking for 
 fresh air and scenery, but as far away as possible 
 from those hackneyed tracks infested by the 
 typical tourist, both English and Transatlantic, 
 and by poor Marryat's " shilling-seeking, napkin- 
 holding, up-and-downstairs son of a sea-cook" 
 of an hotel waiter, need not go to the Arctic 
 Circle to find all the above-named advantages, unless, 
 indeed, he is bent on also seeing the sun at 
 midnight, and his own body a prey to the 
 mosquitoes. 
 
 Within five days of Temple Bar, or as we 
 soon shall have to say, where Temple Bar oilce 
 stood, there are as splendid countries to explore, as 
 fine ruins to contemplate, as glorious scenery and 
 as gorgeous costumes to admire, as the heart of man 
 can wish for ; and if the reader will trust himself 
 with me for a little while, excusing the many short- 
 comings he will meet with in these pages, I will 
 lead him over a trip I took last Summer which I 
 think will fully repay him, though he will often
 
 A Trip Last Summer. 13 
 
 have to make great allowances and deal leniently 
 with the Author, who for the first time in his 
 life rushes into print, just for the same reason 
 that the stars shine above us, because he has 
 nothing else to do ! But if through publish- 
 ing this little book he shall have opened up a new 
 field of travel to those who yearly require to 
 recruit their strength of body and of mind by 
 a ramble in foreign lands, if he shall have added 
 one more possible source of enjoyment to those 
 within the reach of the many, he will consider 
 himself amply repaid for whatever trouble he may 
 have been put to in its compilation.
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 MAN PROPOSES, BUT GOD DISPOSES— VIENNA— ST. STEPHEN'S 
 CATHEDRAL— OLD CATHEDRALS— SANTA MARIA DEL FIORE 
 7-USES OP EAU DE COLOGNE— INSECT ATTACKS — THE UNI- 
 VERSAL EXHIBITION — THE GARDENS AND ACCESSORIES — 
 THE LADIES OF VIENNA — NEW OPERA-HOUSE— ON THE 
 DANUBE — A WEALTHY PRELATE — WISSEGRAD— ARRIVAL AT 
 PESTH. 
 
 STARTED from London for my 
 holiday trip early in the month of 
 June, 1873. The route I had laid 
 out for myself on my departure was 
 not exactly that which I eventually adopted, 
 for nothing is truer than that man proposes, 
 but God disposes. I had intended visiting the 
 Crimea, and then crossing over the Straits of 
 Kertch, I meant to have rambled over
 
 Vienna. 15 
 
 the Caucasus, finishing my trip with a visit to 
 the Monastery of Echmiadzin, at the foot of Mount 
 Ararat. 
 
 But it was not to be ; I got as far as Pesth, 
 when the cholera, which was then very active, 
 not to say raging in Hungary, barred my further 
 passage down the river into the Lower Provinces 
 of the Danube, by threatening me with a 
 quarantine of eleven days in a dirty lazzaretto, 
 at a temperature of at least 90° in the shade. I 
 would have risked the cholera, but I could not 
 face the loss of eleven days in the limited time 
 I had at my disposal, nor could I contem- 
 plate at all the horrors of an Oriental lazza- 
 retto. All my plans were therefore upset ; still 
 the result was eventually satisfactory, as I 
 think I shall be able to prove in the following 
 pages. 
 
 After leaving London, I made straight for 
 Vienna, by Brussels and Cologne, where I re- 
 mained only a few hours, during which I visited 
 for the twentieth time and more that exquisite 
 specimen of ecclesiastical structure, its unrivalled 
 Cathedral ; every time I see it I admire it more
 
 16 Cathedral of Cologne. 
 
 and more, I think there are none to equal it, 
 while rtiost certainly none surpass it. 
 
 St. Peter's at Rome is a magnificent building, 
 astonishes one by its size and its rich adornments, 
 but it fails to impress one from a religious point of 
 view. It might be a church, or it might be a grand 
 reception room, a salie des amhassadeurs^ or a colossal 
 ball-room — whereas the Cathedral of Cologne is a 
 church, a place of worship, and nothing else. I sup- 
 pose there is something in the pure Gothic archi- 
 tecture conducive to this impression. There is 
 but one other church I know of in the world 
 which has the same solemn awe-producing effect, 
 perhaps in a greater degree even than the Cathedral 
 of Cologne, and that is Santa Maria del Fiore, 
 the Cathedral of Florence. I have been hun- 
 dreds of times in that grand old edifice, but 
 never without feeling an overwhelming sense of 
 solemnity and awe. It was not only the low 
 murmuring notes of the organ sounding the 
 responses at eve to the plaintive litanies of the 
 Virgin, nor the deep tones of the full ac- 
 companiment to the Miserere mei Deus in the 
 Passion Week, which produced it, for I was
 
 Simplicitif of the Structure. 17 
 
 perhaps oftener there when all was silent, than 
 during festive times, as I have always had the 
 greatest objection to going into Catholic churches 
 during service, gaping about and sight-seeing, to 
 the evident annoyance and discomfort of the 
 worshippers — a habit which, I regret to say, 
 many of our country people too often indulge 
 in, greatly to our detriment, especially in the 
 less frequented places of the continent, where 
 the people have come to regard us as heathens, 
 and constantly to say of us, *'Non sanno meglio, 
 non sono Cristiani." 
 
 It was something more than all this which 
 ever filled me with a feeling of intense devo- 
 tion when I entered that grand old building. 
 The severe simplicity of the structure, with no 
 tawdry ornamentation to obtrude itself and take 
 off the attention, may have played an important 
 part in giving birth to solemn thoughts, together 
 with the height and size of the three enormous 
 pilasters which alone support the roof — the lofty 
 arches, the vast depth and gloom of the aisles, 
 the intensity of the shade, the deep silence 
 
 c
 
 18 Eau de Cohgne. 
 
 made still more impressive by an occasional foot- 
 fall — all would combine to proclaim this a house 
 of prayer, and nothing else ; a Temple in the 
 fullest and most unequivocal sense of the word, 
 offering to the old and the broken-spirited, to 
 the infirm and to all who sought it in prayer, an 
 assurance of tranquillity, consolation, and peace ! 
 
 Having enjoyed my oft-repeated visit, and pur- 
 chased a large supply of Eau de Cologne from 
 the Farina gegeniiber dem Julichs Platz, (and don't 
 you believe that the others make it near as good), 
 I got in the train for Munich and for Vienna. 
 
 I think I see a smile, slightly perhaps savour- 
 ing of a sneer, from some of my readers of the 
 masculine gender, at my purchase of a large 
 supply of Eau de Cologne , but just let them 
 hold hard, till they shall have endured the trials 
 of hot winds and dusty roads in the daytime, 
 stuffy cabins and the ordinary accompaniment of 
 flea invasions and other entomological attacks in 
 the night-time ; and then if they have the luck 
 to have any of it with them, they will discover 
 the use of Eau de Cologne in allaying pain and 
 irritation.
 
 Vienna Exhibition. 19 
 
 Travellers in all Eastern countries should have 
 
 with them a supply of good Eau de Cologne, 
 
 not for scenting their pocket-handkerchiefs only, 
 
 but principally as a remedy. Some people suffer 
 
 more, some suffer less from insect attacks ; but 
 
 I have seen a man, a strong, stout, brawny 
 
 Britisher, set nearly wild by flea-bites, and I 
 
 shall never forget his appearance, as he stood 
 
 before me one morning, after passing a restless night 
 
 in a very wild region m the South of Europe, like 
 
 a patient with small-pox, and scratching away at 
 
 himself for bare life. I am sure he would have 
 
 been in a high fever that night, had I not 
 
 bathed him with a mixture of equal parts of 
 
 Eau de Cologne, laurel water, and sal-volatile. 
 
 So don't forget it, kind reader, if ever in your 
 
 travels you are likely to be in countries infested 
 
 with insect tribes ; whatever their nature may be, 
 
 whether the mosquito which flieth, the flea which 
 
 hoppeth, or t'other thing which crawleth, my nostrum 
 
 will be found a sovereign remedy against them all. 
 
 Although the Vienna Exhibition was fully 
 
 open, and that numbers were flocking from all 
 
 c 2
 
 20 Archduke Charles^ Hotel. 
 
 parts to that most charming capital, which has 
 so justly acquired the epithet of " Ic Paradis 
 des Hommes," I was fortunate in having but 
 one companion in the train al! the way, and 
 thus we both were enabled to extend our limbs 
 and sleep as comfortably as in our beds. It is 
 wonderful the amount of comfort one can 
 obtain through life by the judicious distri- 
 bution of a few cigars accompanied by a little 
 silver ! 
 
 At Vienna, I went — as I always do — to the 
 Archduke Charles' Hotel ; a little oldrfashioned, 
 perhaps, but unquestionably the best hotel in 
 Vienna, and where the cooking is always un- 
 deniable. During my short stay, I went every 
 day to the Universal Exhibition — the world's 
 fair ! but don't be afraid that 1 mean to weary you by 
 dragging you with me through those confusing 
 avenues of "all sorts," where nothing that was 
 wanted could be found, and everything we wanted 
 not was sure to be everlastingly obtruding itself 
 before our eyes. 
 
 I confess that the Vienna Exhibition disap- 
 pointed me ; whereas the Paris one of 1867 left me
 
 Gardens of the Exhibition. 21 
 
 nothing to desire ; and all owing to the want 
 of order and system in the one instance — while 
 in the other, the arrangement was so perfect 
 that there was not the smallest difficulty in 
 getting at anything one wanted to find 
 out. 
 
 But if the exhibitional department was less 
 perfect in its arrangement at Vienna than at 
 Paris, the gardens and the outside accessories 
 were fir more beautiful at the former than the 
 latter ; while Strauss's delightful band always 
 afforded an hour's luxurious enjoyment in the cool 
 of the afternoon, till the fearful braying of the steam 
 trumpet, (they called it a Telephone, I think) drove 
 one out into the Prater. Then the restaurants 
 and cafes of the different Nationalities were so 
 well got up and so picturesquely scattered about 
 the Gardens, as were also the several buildings 
 characteristic of the different Nations, and among 
 which was pre-eminent for elegance of form, 
 design, and execution, the kiosk of the Pasha of 
 Egypt. 
 
 And then the Viennese ladies ! I know I 
 should have mentioned them the first, I confess
 
 22 Fine Arts Department. 
 
 it; confiteor^ mea culpa^ mea maxima culpa^ but, 
 gentle reader, it was from sheer diffidence ! I did 
 !iot know how to approach the subject, I felt 
 myself totally incompetent, and indeed I do so 
 now ! To say that at Vienna there are more 
 lovely women to be seen than in any other 
 city in Europe, is not saying one halt. There 
 are loads of pretty women to be seen in Dublin 
 of a fine Sunday afternoon, especially among the 
 middle and lower classes ; but at Vienna they 
 are not only lovely, but terribly attractive, and 
 winning, and seductive ; there are none like them 
 anywhere else ! 
 
 In the fine arts department there were many 
 beautiful things to be seen ; but as I promised not 
 to drag the reader round the World's Fair, I shall 
 keep my word, and shall only call his attention 
 to two statues which greatly attracted me, one 
 was a bronze figure of a Hindoo charming a 
 cobra, the other a Negro running away, both 
 figures perfectly alive ! 
 
 I went twice to the opera, once to hear 
 Meyerbeer's " Africaine," which disappointed me ; 
 and once to see a grand ballet, I think it was
 
 Transformation of Vienna. 23 
 
 called "Eleonora," which did not. I had not 
 been for several years at Vienna, and had, there- 
 fore, not seen the new Opera House. I was 
 greatly struck with its size and beauty ; it is 
 unquestionably the finest theatre in Europe, and 
 the arrangements are perfect. But Vienna is 
 now undergoing such a process of transformation, 
 and to such an extent, that in a few years 
 those who knew it ten or twelve years ago will 
 be utterly unable to recognise it. Even now it is 
 one of the finest capitals in Europe, but at the 
 rate it is progressing, it bids fair to surpass in 
 a short time every other city, when the Viennese 
 will really be able to give utterance with truth to 
 their old saying, " Gibt nur eine Kaiserstadt, gibt 
 nur ein Wien !" 
 
 After a very delightful week in Vienna, which 
 seemed indeed far too short a time to bestow 
 upon the most enjoyable capital in Europe, I 
 took my passage in a steamer to Pesth, starting 
 at six a.m., and arriving at my destination at about 
 the same hour in the evening. The steamer was 
 a very fine one, the accommodation excellent, 
 the cuisine not good, but then I had been
 
 24 Vienna to Gran. 
 
 terribly spoilt at the Erz-Herzog Karl ; probably 
 had 1 been at a worse hotel, I would not have 
 found so much fault with the cookery on board 
 the steamer. The company on board was 
 worse than the cookery — in all my rambles 
 I don't think I ever met so unprepossessing 
 a lot. 
 
 The large steamers that navigate the Danube 
 don't come up to Vienna, but lie off the Island 
 of Lobau, to which passengers are carried in a 
 smaller steamer. The morning I started was 
 drizzling and chilly in the extreme, in marked 
 contrast with the weather of the previous week, 
 which had been intensely hot ; and when I sat 
 down on the deck of the little steamer which was 
 to take me down a branch of the Danube to the 
 main steamer, I was glad to avail myself of my 
 top-coat and rugs. In a short time we reached 
 the larger vessel, and, having all got on board, we 
 started at a good round speed. 
 
 From Vienna to Gran, the Danube is uninterest- 
 ing so far as scenery is concerned. Its enormous 
 volume of muddy water, wider than the Thames 
 at Westminster, though still upwards of nine
 
 Presshirg. 25 
 
 hundred miles from its entrance into the Black 
 Sea, flows through a vast flat country; an inter- 
 minable front of sallows and alders on the one 
 side, and an interminable plain on the other, 
 dotted all over with countless herds of white 
 cattle with long black horns like the Tuscan 
 oxen, and endless troops of horses ; and as I 
 gazed on the mighty flood of turbid waters, 
 the old Italian nursery rhyme came back to my 
 memory. 
 
 " Tre Ombroni fanno un Arno, 
 Tre Ami fanno un Tevere, 
 Tre Tevere fanno un Pb, 
 E tre Pb di Lombardia 
 Fanno un Danubio di Turchia." 
 
 We passed by Pressburg where the two sides 
 of the river are united by a bridge of boats. We 
 only remained a short time and I had no opportunity 
 of going ashore, so that I could form but 
 a very inaccurate opinion of the place ; it seemed 
 to me from its outward look as not now prosper- 
 ous, but had quite the appearance of having seen 
 better days. 
 
 After a time we came to Komorn, the cele-
 
 26 Vissegrad. 
 
 brated fortress ; if I had not been told, "There is 
 Komorn," I might almost have passed it without 
 observing it, so protected from sight are its bastions 
 by the immense earthworks in front of them. Still 
 down we steamed, and still the same country- 
 right and left met our view, till we came to Gran, 
 the seat of the Prince- Primate of Hungary, 
 perhaps one of the wealthiest prelates in the world, 
 possessing no less an income than ^90,000 
 per annum. 
 
 Here the scenery began to improve; the Cathedral 
 of Gran, though in itself unclassical, and one that 
 in any other place might be passed by unnoticed, 
 yet served to relieve the monotony of the view. 
 The river, which up to this had flowed through 
 boundless plains, became suddenly contracted, and 
 consequently swifter as the high lands approached 
 the edge of it ; and now with every revolu- 
 tion of the paddles the scenery improved, till 
 on reaching Vissegrad it became absolutely 
 lovely. Instead of the interminable plains, we now 
 had precipitous mountains on either side, some 
 clad with forest down to the water's edge, some 
 bare, ragged, and rocky, but all lovely, quite
 
 Villa Rpsidcnces. 27 
 
 equal to the finest parts of the Rhhie, not 
 even lacking a Drachenfels in the beautiful ruins 
 of the ancient castellated palace of the Kings of 
 Hungary, the favourite retreat of the learned 
 Matthias Corvinus. 
 
 Nature has done everything to beautify this 
 favoured spot, but man, as is too often the case, 
 has done his best to mar it. At the foot of the 
 cliff, the top of which is crowned by the ancient 
 residence of the Kings of Hungary, on a beautifully 
 wooded spot between the mountain and the rushing 
 Danube, some enterprising German has erected, 
 horribile vifu, three villa residences, in the correct 
 suburban style, a few vards distant from one 
 another. Regardless of expense, everything about 
 them, including themselves, is radiant with white- 
 wash, except where green paint asserts its place. 
 At first I thought it must be an hotel or pension, 
 with two succursales ; but no, the skipper assured 
 me they were country houses, and seemed astonished 
 when I said the man that built them deserved 
 to be hanged in front of them ; he could not 
 comprehend me, he thought them lovely ! 
 
 Often during my subsequent travels I thought
 
 28 Arrival at Pesth. 
 
 of that lovely country between Gran and Vissegrad ; 
 such exquisite scenery, so diversified ; such a 
 combination of rolling pastures, of glorious hills 
 clad with forests, backed by rugged mountains, 
 with that grand old Danube rushing through the 
 midst ; such shooting and fishing, all in a 
 compact locality, and only four hours by rail from 
 Vienna; such a spot for a country residence 
 could scarcely be equalled, and certainly not 
 surpassed. If it were within ten hours of 
 London, what a fabulous price it would com- 
 mand ! but here no one seems to have 
 placed any value on it since the days of Matthias 
 Corvinus. 
 
 After going through this gorge, the Danube 
 spreads itself out again, and the scenery becomes 
 tame and uninteresting, and continues so till one 
 reaches Pesth, where I arrived somewhat later 
 than I expected.
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 PESTH— HOTEL UNGARIA— BUDA — STORY OF AN ARTIST— PROS- 
 PERITY OF THE CITY — NEW BRIDGE OVER THE DANUBE — 
 ST. marguerite's ISLAND — ANCIENT ROMAN BATH — CON- 
 DITION OF HUNGARY — FIELD FOR THE JUNIOR BRANCHES 
 OF THE UPPER TEN THOUSAND — KEEPING UP APPEARANCES 
 — THE TERMINATION OF TURKISH MISRULE — FUTURE OF 
 THE DANUBIAN PRINCIPALITIES. 
 
 DROVE to the Hotel Ungaria, to 
 which I had been recommended, and 
 where a most comfortable apartment 
 and an equally good dinner gave me an avant- 
 gout of a comfortable night's rest, in which I was 
 no wise disappointed ; and I can safely recommend 
 the Ungaria as one of the finest and most 
 comfortable hotels in Europe, without at the same
 
 30 Buda. 
 
 time being extravagant in its charges. The only 
 drawback I found was with the person of the porter, 
 a most respectable man no doubt, but he could 
 not speak either French or English ; and I had 
 to carry on all my consultations respecting my 
 intended future progress with the hall-porter .of 
 the " Konigin von England" hotel, close by. 
 If that man could only be installed at the Ungaria, 
 that hotel would be as near perfection as 
 possible. 
 
 The windows of my bedroom at the Ungaria 
 opened out on a balcony which gave me a 
 splendid view of the " blue Danube," which, how- 
 ever, I never saw of any other shade but mud 
 colour. Across the river, and just opposite, • I 
 could see the ancient city of Buda, with the royal 
 residence in front, and a little to the left, on 
 the top of the hill, the celebrated fortress which 
 played so important a part during the last 
 Hungarian civil war. A little to my right was 
 the grand suspension bridge, guarded at each 
 end by two colossal couchant lions, about which 
 the following improbable anecdote was related to 
 me.
 
 Pesth. 31 
 
 The artist who executed them forgot to put 
 tongues into their mouths, to loll out in proper 
 heraldic fashion, and when the defect was pointed 
 out to him as the lions were uncovered, he took 
 it so to heart that he at once put an end to 
 himself by plunging headlong into the river ! 
 Now when "le grand Vatel" committed suicide, 
 because the turbot did not arrive in time for 
 the dinner of the Most Christian King, there 
 was some show of reason in the act, Vatel's 
 credit was in some degree pledged to that dinner ; 
 but not one man in ten thousand would 
 have noticed whether these lions had tongues 
 or not. 
 
 Pesth seems, like Vienna, to be undergoing a 
 process of rebuilding, and that on a scale of 
 considerable magnificence. I was told that its 
 commerce was daily increasing, and, certainly, to 
 judge from the immense number of vessels 
 moored in the river, the ceaseless passing up 
 and down of immense steamers, the piles of 
 merchandize, and the constant bustle on the 
 quays, a very considerable amount of business 
 must be done there. The grand suspension
 
 32 St. Marguerite's Island. 
 
 bridge which spans the Danube being found 
 insufficient for the increasing traffic, a new one 
 is in process of construction, to be built of 
 iron on piers, and not a suspension bridge. It 
 is to cost an immense sum, and will require 
 to be well protected against the action of the 
 ice on the one hand, while on the other it 
 may become the source of considerable danger 
 to the low land in its neighbourhood by 
 arresting the free passage downwards of the 
 ice, if not well looked after. I went to see 
 the works at the central pier, and remained there 
 some time watching the men at the bottom of 
 the immense caisson out of which a donkey 
 engine was incessantly pumping water ; outside it, 
 the river was running like a mill race at not 
 less than eight miles an hour, and I was 
 assured that the depth at that spot was fully forty 
 feet. 
 
 After visiting the works at the new bridge, 
 I went to St. Marguerite's Island, on which 
 is a park beautifully laid out, and which forms 
 one of the favourite promenades of the pleasure- 
 loving inhabitants of Pesth. As it can only
 
 Old Toivn of Buda. 33 
 
 be approached by boat, it is frequented only 
 by pedestrians; but in order to cater for all 
 tastes and gratify those who enjoy a jaunt, 
 there is a tramway running the whole length 
 of the island. There are also some capital 
 restaurants, and several bands play every evening 
 in fine weather. 
 
 There is another park on Urra firma, an 
 imitation of the Prater at Vienna, but it is 
 small and shabby. There were a good many 
 people strolling about it when I went, but 
 1 did not see even one middling-good turn- 
 out, and though one constantly hears of the 
 beautiful horses and rare horsemanship of the 
 Hungarians, I was doomed to be disappointed in 
 both cases. 
 
 Crossing over the suspension bridge one gets 
 
 into the old town of Buda or Ofen, in which 
 
 are situated the Royal residence, the Government 
 
 offices, and some of the palaces of the native 
 
 • magnates. 
 
 There is a fine street by which one can drive 
 to the upper part of the town, which is consider- 
 ably above the level of the Danube; but for 
 
 a 
 
 D
 
 34 Condition of Hungary. 
 
 pedestrians there is an easy, cheap, and quick 
 method of getting to the summit, by means of a 
 small counterpoised railway, which carries one up 
 and down very rapidly at an exceedingly moderate 
 rate. There is a fine view from the top, and 
 several fine old palaces, but the most interesting 
 thing in the town of Buda is the old Roman 
 bath erected over some sulphurous springs, cele- 
 brated for the cures they perform. It is in exactly 
 the same condition as in the days of ancient Rome, 
 and consists of a large vaulted apartment lit by a 
 circular opening in the centre of the cupola, and 
 containing a large hexagonal piscina with an 
 ambulatory all round. None bathe there save the 
 lower classes — men, women, and children pro- 
 miscuously ; in the immediate neighbourhood, 
 however, there are some very well appointed 
 baths which are considerably patronized, and 
 bear a high reputation for the cure of skin 
 disease. 
 
 From all I could collect during the brief stay 
 I made at Pesth, Hungary in general must be 
 in a very progressive condition ; and from the 
 numbers of agricultural machines and implements,
 
 Price of Land. 35-* 
 
 all of English construction, which I saw every- 
 where stacked upon the quays, not only at Pesth 
 but at many other stations on the Danube, 
 including large numbers of steam-thrashing and 
 winnowing machines, a vigorous attempt is evidently 
 being made to exploit the unbounded fertility of 
 perhaps the richest soil in Europe. Land, how- 
 ever, is still cheap in Hungary, probably in con- 
 sequence of the extreme love of pleasure of its 
 inhabitants, who preferring to spend their days 
 in the society of Vienna, Paris, or Pesth, draw 
 exorbitantly on their revenues, till at last compelled 
 to sell their lands in order to meet their engage- 
 ments. Nice estates within twenty miles of Pesth, 
 with good substantial dwelling-houses, and all the 
 necessary offices for farming, with varied soil, 
 vineyard, pasture, tillage, and forest, can be had 
 sufficiently cheap to ensure a clear return of five 
 per cent, free of taxes, for the capital laid out 
 on them ! A vast number of the agricultural 
 community in Hungary are Jews, and it is perhaps 
 the onlv country in Europe where we find the 
 children of Israel as tillers of the soil ; and I was 
 assured by many in Pesth that they make by 
 
 D 2
 
 36 Land of Promise for Emigrants. 
 
 far the most satisfactory tenants — though naturally 
 they require looking after occasionally, as well as 
 their soi-disant Christian brethren. 
 
 When one reflects on the countless acres of the 
 richest land in creation, which to a great extent 
 are still unoccupied and uncultivated in the eastern 
 and south-eastern regions of Europe, one cannot 
 help regretting that some of our surplus popula- 
 tion do not try a venture in those countries. I 
 am thinking principally of that most unfortunate 
 and ill-used portion of society belonging to the 
 upper classes, and which, from circumstances beyond 
 its control, is suffering from positive want in its 
 struggles to keep up a respectability as necessary 
 for its existence as the very air it breathes. The 
 labourer, the artisan, the skilled workman are well 
 off at the present time in our country ; wages are 
 very high and the friendly societies, to one of 
 which almost every workman belongs, provide for 
 them amply in cases of sickness, and in some 
 cases even contribute something to the family 
 when the illness terminates in death — not to 
 mention the numerous hospitals and asylums, all 
 open to the labouring classes, but which are
 
 Emigration to Eastern Europe. 37 
 
 all virtually closed to those I am now speaking 
 of. 
 
 The working classes, with few exceptions, are 
 all well off at present, and require none of our 
 sympathy except when in affliction, when the richest 
 and poorest come to the same level. They can 
 afford to supply all their wants out of their 
 wages, and lay out one fifth^ and in many cases 
 one fourth^ and even one third (I am assured by 
 good authorities) in drink, for the gratification 
 of the only pleasure which they are capable 
 of enjoying ; for proof of which the police 
 reports throughout the country will bear ample 
 evidence. 
 
 But I will tell who really deserve all our 
 sympathy and all our aid, the junior branches of 
 our upper ten thousand — the families of officers, 
 poor clergymen, poor lawyers, &c., &c., all 
 struggling for dear life against difficulties of every 
 kind ; those are the classes who claim the greatest 
 share of our sympathy, and to whom the regions 
 above mentioned offer advantages unequalled any 
 where else. 
 
 I remember when the Canterbury settlement
 
 38 Emigration a Moral Safeti/ Valre. 
 
 was established in New Zealand, it was intended 
 in a great measure to provide for the classes I 
 have alluded to above ; but the distance was too 
 great, the mere cost of going out was a most 
 serious drawback, at the very least Un times the 
 amount required to land one bag and baggage in the 
 centre of Hungary, or better still in Servia, among 
 some of the most beautiful scenery in the world, 
 the richest soil, the best climate, and the finest 
 fishing and shooting that could be desired, where 
 game laws and river preserves and licences are 
 still utterly unknown. 
 
 I hate croaking ; still, if one hears rumbling 
 noises underground for any space of time, one 
 is justified in apprehending an earthquake. For 
 several years I have been hearing these subter- 
 ranean noises, and year after year they have 
 become more and more threatening, and the 
 earthquake must come at last. But as a volcanic 
 eruption, acting as a safety valve, often saves a 
 country from the effects of a physical earth- 
 quake, so the timely exodus of an excessive 
 population may save a country from a moral 
 one.
 
 Keeping up Appearances. 39 
 
 By the very nature of my profession, I have 
 innumerable times been willingly or unwillingly 
 let into the secrets of the private affairs of 
 scores of families ; and I have watched with 
 perfect dismay the misery, the poverty, the utter 
 wretchedness that were screened from the eyes of 
 the world by the decent exterior which was kept 
 up in order to preserve appearances. 
 
 If with Asmodeus we could but lift up the 
 roofs of a few thousands of houses in these 
 prosperous islands and see the difficulties, the 
 make-shifts, and the make-believes which are 
 resorted to, and that in many cases where one would 
 least expect them, it would make our very hearts 
 bleed at all the anxiety, all the wretchedness, all 
 the scalding tears which would be disclosed — all 
 brought about by that great delusion " keeping 
 up appearances." Well, all this living under false 
 pretences, which is the distinguishing characteristic 
 and the great evil, the real " social evil " of the 
 present time cannot go on for ever. It is an 
 evil of long standing, no doubt, but it has gone 
 on increasing from year to year, like a falling 
 avalanche, with constantly increasing velocity.
 
 40 Condition of European TiirJce}/. 
 
 The earthquake must come at last, if not averted 
 by an emigration en masse of those educated 
 classes to which I have alluded above ; and 
 the best, finest, healthiest, most fertile, and most 
 accessible country, outside the British dominions, 
 I hold to be, roughly speaking, that tract of 
 Southern Europe bounded on the North by the 
 Saave, on the South by the Bosphorus, on the 
 East by the Danube, and on the West by the 
 Adriatic. 
 
 " But, my dear Sir," I think I hear some 
 reader say, "that is Turkey in Europe!" No 
 doubt it is, but the Turks won't be there for 
 ever, their time is nearly run out ; the period of 
 their wretched misrule over the Christian popula- 
 tions of Europe is nearly accomplished, and T 
 still hope to live long enough to see those 
 barbarous hordes recrossing the Bosphorus into 
 Asia Minor, on their way back to the Steppes of 
 Khiva and Bokhara, from whence they originally 
 emigrated. They have ever shown themselves 
 irreclaimable barbarians throughout. Look at the 
 present condition of European Turkey, after cen- 
 turies of Ottoman dominion ; contrast it with the
 
 Dawn of a Xeic Era. 41 
 
 nascent state of Roumania, which only quite lately- 
 succeeded in shaking off its Moslem chains. Let 
 us look at both countries, as they present them- 
 selves opposite to each other on the banks of 
 the Danube. On the left bank of that river we 
 have Giurgevo in Roumania, the port of Bukharest, 
 where, notwithstanding centuries of slavery and 
 misgovernment, the natives, now under the govern- 
 ment of an enlightened Christian Prince, are all 
 activity and progress — while on the right bank at 
 Rustchuk, just opposite, in dark contrast to the 
 Christian, who is trying to turn to account all 
 the advantages of his country, the indolent, un- 
 civilized Turk is still lazily dozing away, 
 leaning against his ancient painted and bedizened 
 araba, drawn by a pair of padent oxen, 
 waiting for the chance of some solitary, silent 
 traveller ! 
 
 A new era is dawning, however, over these 
 south-eastern regions, but much of their prosperity 
 and future happiness may depend on the model 
 they will propose for themselves in their efforts 
 at civilization ; whether the brilliant glitter of 
 Parisian veneering and varnish, or the less attrac-
 
 42 
 
 Future of the rrincifaUties. 
 
 tive, but more solid advantages of British institu- 
 tions. A great future is before the Danubian 
 Principalities, may they use their opportunities with 
 wisdom, and may they prosper !
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 STEINBRUCK — THE SOMMERING — FIRST VIEW OF THE ADRIATIC 
 — TRIESTE— SHOCKS OF EARTHQUAKE AT BELLUNO— AUSTRIAN 
 IRONCLAD 'LISSA' — CAPTAIN R. BURTON — FLYING VISIT TO 
 SAN CANZIANO — SUBTERRANEAN COURSE OF A MOUNTAIN 
 STREAM — THE KARST— WILD SCENERY — A THUNDER-STORM — 
 CHURCH OF SAN CANZIANO — STUD FARM. 
 
 "^^^^^^oIHAT odious and useless mediaeval 
 institution, the quarantine, having 
 barred my passage into the Lower 
 Provinces of the Danube, I deter- 
 mined to go to Trieste, then proceed by sea 
 to Constantinople, and thence to the Caucasus, 
 but it was written differently in the book of 
 Fate! 
 
 The line to Trieste was full of interest ; during 
 the first portion of the journey I passed quite
 
 44 Journey to Trieste. 
 
 close to Lake Balaton, celebrated for its fish, and 
 then after traversing some wonderfully rich plains, 
 dotted here and there with patches of forest, and 
 covered with herds of cattle, horses, and geese, 
 which are kept here in vast numbers for the 
 sake of their feathers, arrived at Steinbriick at 
 one p.m., where I dined. Here, at the junction 
 of the Saane and the Saave, the scenery became 
 truly magnificent ; we had been for some time 
 following the banks of the Saane, and the 
 mountains had been getting closer and higher 
 with every mile we made, till at last they 
 actually came down to the river, allowing a bare 
 passage to the railway which followed its every 
 bend. 
 
 Having finished our mid-day meal at Stein- 
 briick — where the Pesth line joins on to that 
 miracle of engineering, the celebrated railway 
 between Vienna and Trieste — we resumed our 
 journey, the scenery retaining its grand features, 
 till having topped the Sommering, we came on 
 to the desert Karst and got our first peep of 
 the salt water — the glorious Adriatic. Nothing 
 could exceed the wild grandeur of the country
 
 Earthquahe at Belluno. 45 
 
 on both sides of the railway, as the engines (tor 
 we had two of them) slowly panted up those 
 steep inclines, winding in and out through the 
 gorges of the Sommering, now plunging into a 
 tunnel to traverse the heart of a mountain, and 
 now crossing a viaduct between two cliffs, over a 
 precipice hundreds of feet in depth. Once at the 
 top, our pace increased considerably, and by eight 
 o'clock I found myself comfortably installed at 
 my hotel at Trieste, on the evening of the 29th 
 of June. 
 
 After a most refreshing night, I descended 
 the next morning to the cafe on the ground 
 floor of the hotel, and then heard for the first 
 time of the severe shocks of earthquake at 
 Belluno and its neighbourhood, which had been 
 felt even in Trieste. Several lives had been 
 lost, and one church nearly shaken to the 
 ground. 
 
 After breakfast I went to pay my respects to 
 our excellent consul, Captain Burton, and then 
 hearing that the Austrian ironclad " Lissa" was 
 outside the harbour, I took a boat and went to 
 have a look at her. She is a fine vessel with a
 
 46 Austrian Ironclad " Lissa.'* 
 
 long projecting prow, and looks well in the water. 
 Having sent up my card, I was received and shown 
 over the ship by Lieutenant Count Petruski, who 
 was most kind in pointing out every thing of 
 interest connected with it. I think he said she 
 mounted 12 rifled fifteen-ton guns of our 
 Woolwich Infant type, and was furnished with 
 a galvanic apparatus, by means of which the 
 captain could fire a whole broadside at a time. 
 Although she was only in after a cruise, and 
 consequently not in the best of trim for exhibition, 
 I was much gratified by all I saw. The men were 
 a very fine set of fellows, the state cabins and 
 officers' cabins particularly neat and nice, and 
 should these lines ever fall beneath the eye of 
 Count Petruski or any of his brother officers on 
 board the " Lissa" I beg them all to receive my 
 warm thanks for their kindness to me that day. 
 1 spent a couple of very pleasant hours on 
 board, and as Count Petruski spoke excellent 
 English, it made our interview all the more 
 agreeable.* 
 
 * Since writing the above I have obtained the following authentic 
 description of this ship. The •' Lissa" ironclad was built at Trieste-
 
 Captain Burton. 47 
 
 Trieste is anything but an interesting place ; 
 though a couple of days may be spent pleasantly 
 enough visiting the neighbourhood, especially if one 
 has the advantage of the acquaintance and company 
 of our consul, Captain R. Burton ; the Burton 
 of Harar, of Mecca, and of Medina ; the 
 facile princeps of modern travellers and pleasant 
 companions. 
 
 Why is Captain Burton kept at Trieste ? It is 
 not a difficult post, nor one requiring a man with 
 exceptional qualifications ; and it does seem a 
 misapplication if not a waste of force to keep a 
 man like Burton at Trieste, when he could be of 
 so much greater use elsewhere. The thorough 
 and intimate knowledge that he possesses of 
 
 she is a full-rigged casemated ironclad of 5950 tons, 320 feet long, 60 
 feet beam, and drawing 28 feet of water. Armoured with 6-inch Aus- 
 trian plates, the armament consisting of tea 9-inch breech-loading 
 Krupp guns in her maindeck casemate, and two g-inch breech-loading 
 Krupp guns on turn-tables in semi-circular overhanging casemates on 
 the open deck, the guns being protected from above by a sort ot 
 central hurricane deck. The " Lissa" steams at the rate of twelve 
 knots, and carries coals for 420 hours ; among other improvements 
 she has a powerful electric light placed on the bridge, and gimballed, 
 so as to allow it to be thrown in any direction.
 
 48 Bight Man in the Wrong Place. 
 
 Oriental character, his perfect mastery of Arabic, 
 together with the knowledge he has of Persian 
 and scores of other languages, not to mention the 
 experience he has acquired of Oriental affairs, 
 customs and idiosyncrasies, all go to point him 
 out emphatically as the right man in the wrong 
 place at Trieste. I spent some very pleasant hours 
 in his company during my short stay in that 
 city, and shall never forget the kindness I 
 experienced both from him and la bella 
 Contessa, his most charming and accomplished 
 lady. 
 
 Thus far, my observations have been of a 
 strictly selfish nature. I know Captain Burton's 
 capabilities, I feel that he is utterly thrown away 
 where he is, and I want a quid pro quo for my 
 money — consequently I want to see him in some 
 post where his talents and exceptional qualifications 
 may be of some profit to me. The reader will 
 perceive that I am strictly selfish and utilitarian, 
 and that in writing as above I have not been 
 led away by sentimentality in any shape. Had I 
 been in the opposite vein, I could have said, 
 I met at Trieste Captain R. T. Burton, who
 
 Captain Burton. 49 
 
 undoubtedly is the greatest of living travellers, and 
 also second to none in that great phalanx of 
 explorers, who from time to time have devoted 
 their lives to carrying civilization to the most 
 remote corners of the earth. He opened up 
 Eastern Africa, and most probably discovered in 
 Lake Tanganyika the mysterious sources of the 
 Nile. He directly opened up the path and led 
 the way which was subsequently trodden by Speke, 
 Grant, Stanley, Cameron, and others ; indirectly 
 he pointed out the way to Baker, Schweinfurth and 
 Gordon. To Richard Burton then is due the 
 discovery of this New Africa^ this great Lake 
 Region, so fertile and so rich in the centre of a 
 continent which fifty years ago was believed 
 to be one vast uninhabitable desert. What has been 
 his reward ? He has been made consul at Trieste. 
 Here is an inducement to our ardent British 
 youth ! I hear there is some talk of making him 
 a K.C.B. ; for myself, I wouldn't give a roll of 
 ginger-bread for the distinction ; however, let him 
 have it by all means, but let us see him also 
 removed to some more useful sphere of action 
 
 E
 
 50 San Canziano. 
 
 where his exceptional talents and his great 
 knowedge of Oriental languages may be of 
 service to us. Let him be sent to Africa 
 again — to Morocco for instance — at the first 
 vacancy. 
 
 Having still to wait a couple of days for the 
 departure of the steamer which was to take me 
 on my trip down the coast of Dalmatia, I employed 
 my time in paying a flying visit to San Canziano, 
 where a good-sized river, after meandering down 
 a deep ravine like any other Christian stream, 
 suddenly plunges into the bowels of the earth, 
 and after a mysterious course of many miles, re- 
 appears again at the surface under a different 
 name, previous to losing itself in the 
 Adriatic. 
 
 The little hamlet of San Canziano is about 
 twenty miles from Trieste, it consists of a very small 
 and meanly built church, with a good campanile 
 however, with two sweetly-toned bells — why is 
 it that ours are always so unmusical and woody ? — 
 a small wretched Presbytery, a roadside pot-house 
 where nothing could be got for love or money, 
 and half a dozen dilapidated houses. The drive
 
 The Karst. 51 
 
 however, was very pleasant, for the weather was 
 warm and at the same time cloudy, so that we 
 were never inconvenienced by the sun. The road, 
 on leaving Trieste, goes by easy windings over a 
 mountain clothed with oak, so beautifully kept, 
 that it gives the idea of driving through some 
 private park. On reaching the top we came into 
 the open, and had a glorious view of the Styrian 
 mountains on the one side, and the Adriatic on the 
 other. After driving for a short time on the 
 level, we again commenced ascending and soon got 
 into the " Karst," as it is called ; a v/ild barren 
 tract where little or nothing appears to grow, 
 and where rocks and stones seem to have rained 
 down from heaven, not unlike some other spots I 
 visited subsequently in Dalmatia, and notably in 
 Montenegro. But this bleak and barren spot 
 owes its absolute desolation, not so much to the 
 rocky nature of its soil, as to the Bora, a north- 
 . east wind, which often sweeps across it with the force 
 of a West Indian hurricane. 
 
 In many places on the road, traverses of im- 
 mensely thick stone walls had been erected for 
 
 E 2
 
 52 A Precipice. 
 
 protection against the fury of the wind, but 
 notwithstanding all, the Karst is sometimes im- 
 passable when the Bora blows in real earnest, 
 and heavy-laden waggons which have tried to 
 cross it at such times, have been turned over 
 and over like " leaves in Autumn weather." 
 After travelling for some short time along this 
 elevated plateau, we again began to descend, and 
 soon reached our destination, where, having eaten 
 the lunch I had brought with me, I started on 
 foot, under the guidance of a native who could 
 speak nothing but Styrian, to seek the mysterious 
 river. 
 
 In less than half an hour's walk, I found 
 myself on a grass-covered plateau of some miles 
 in extent, fringed in the distance by lofty hills, 
 dotted with clumps of fir trees, and after a few 
 minutes more walking in an easterly direction, 
 I suddenly came on a perpendicular precipice, 
 upwards of five hundred feet in depth, which 
 completely barred my further progress. The cliff 
 on which I stood rose in a narrow valley, or 
 glen, or cleft, as if the crust of the earth had 
 cracked here for a few miles. This cleft, nearly of
 
 Extraordinary Landscape. 53 
 
 uniform depth, was not of uniform width ; in 
 some places it was so narrow that the smooth river 
 which gHded through it completely filled it from 
 side to side, while in other places a sufficient strip 
 of soil remained between the river and the cliff to 
 admit of some amount of cultivation, and here 
 and there a cottage. 
 
 This strange cleft, or valley, or crack in the 
 plateau through which the river fiows is of a most 
 irregular outline, going zig-zag, in and out, just 
 like the cracks one sees in a dried up pond at the 
 end of a hot Summer in England. I was standing 
 where this precipitous crack barred the way, by 
 running exactly at right angles across the path, and 
 here right under m.e at a depth of about five hundred 
 feet, the river which could be seen coursing from a 
 considerable distance at the bottom of the cleft, 
 suddenly leapt into a cavern and disappeared 
 beneath my feet. 
 
 Having made a rapid sketch of this extraordinary 
 landscape — or, more correctly speaking, having 
 tried to convey on paper some faint idea of what 
 the place was like — I again followed the guide, who 
 now, turning his back on the precipice, led me
 
 54 Circular Chasm, 
 
 in a westerly direction, and brought me in a few 
 minutes to the brink of a fearful-looking circular 
 chasm, about fifty yards in diameter, with preci- 
 pitous rocky sides, and from the bottom of which 
 could be heard the distant roar of the river 
 rushing among the rocks. The guide threw some 
 large stones down this yawning gulph, disturbing 
 some thousands of rock-pigeons who build their 
 nests in the nooks and crannies of the rocks, and 
 having timed the fall of one of these stones by 
 listening for its splash in the subterranean river, 
 I noted about seven seconds as the time it took 
 in falling. 
 
 I now accompanied the guide through the little 
 hamlet of San Canziano, and still going westward 
 came just beyond the village on another chasm, 
 of oblong form, about six hundred yards one way, 
 and three hundred and fifty yards the other way, 
 while in depth it was no more than about fifty 
 yards. It looked to me as if this opening had been 
 made by the subsidence or falling-in of the roof 
 of some cavern, of which the limestone rock of 
 these mountains, as well in Styria as in Dalmatia 
 is so full. The sides of this depression were not
 
 A Storm. 55 
 
 precipitous except in some places, and an easy 
 descent led me to the bottom, across which stretched 
 from side to side a fantastic ridge of rock pierced 
 by a natural arch about the middle, and under 
 which an opening in the rock gave entrance to 
 another cavern, through which anyone desirous of 
 exploring it could without much difficulty, but at the 
 cost of some fatigue and the risk of some falls, 
 descend by a series of about six hundred high and 
 slippery ledges of rock to where again the river 
 makes its appearance after its subterranean course. 
 
 As the day was pretty well advanced, and as 
 the weather, which had been cloudy all the morning 
 seemed now to be threatening rain, I thought it 
 wisest not to venture on going further, although the 
 guide had provided himself with candles for the 
 descent. So I scrambled up the sides of the 
 chasm, and was making for the roadside inn where 
 the carriage was waiting for me, when the storm- 
 clouds, which had been gathering thicker and thicker 
 for some time, broke out at last into such a deluge 
 of rain, accompanied by thunder and lightning, 
 that I was glad to take refuge under the archway 
 of the belfry of San Canziano, and from thence into
 
 56 Styrian Sexton. 
 
 the church itself, the door of which was opened 
 for me by a queer little old dried-up chip of a 
 sexton. 
 
 I am sure he said to me, " Pray take shelter in 
 here from the rain," though as he spoke Styrian 
 I could not understand a word, but his looks and 
 gestures were as eloquent as words. Having 
 walked into the little church, first taking off my 
 hat, the little sexton became quite eloquent, and 
 pointed out with evident satisfaction to every 
 part of the chapel, which was poor and desolate in 
 the extreme. Four white-washed walls, a wretched 
 altar piece of wood painted in a few gaudy colours, and 
 a crimson damask baldachino in tatters, which, stowed 
 away in a corner, served to shelter the " Santissimo" 
 when carried about in procession, two or three 
 benches, a confessional box, and a lighted lamp 
 hanging in front of the altar, constituted toufe la 
 baraquel but the poor httle old man seemed de- 
 lighted with himself and everything around him, 
 and kept repeating in a shrill voice the only Italian 
 word he apparently possessed '■'Bella" "Bella" to 
 which I responded as in duty bound, " molto 
 bella" and I trust I may be forgiven the
 
 Ancient Graves. 67 
 
 cram ; for I never told a bigger one in all my 
 life! 
 
 The floor of this little church was formed of 
 large flag-stones, in some of which iron rings were 
 inserted, while in others there only remained the 
 marks of where rings had formerly been ; some had 
 inscriptions, and I should have been interested in 
 hearing something of the ancient tenants of these 
 graves, but here the sexton and I came completely 
 to a dead lock. " Bella " could serve my friend 
 no longer, still he understood perfectly what I 
 required, so when he sat down on a bench, pointing 
 to me to do the same, I complied at once, and all 
 the more willingly as the rain was still coming down 
 in torrents. 
 
 The old fellow then commenced, and, pointing 
 with his skinny finger to the central slab, entered 
 at once into what, I presume, must have been a 
 full, true, and complete history of the tenants of that 
 grave, descanting probably on their virtues, and 
 dealing gently with their faults ; but alas ! I could 
 not understand one word. At last, I suppose the same 
 thought must have struck " Old Mortality," for 
 he suddenly stopped and bursting into a shrill,
 
 58 Stud-Farm. 
 
 unearthly, and most discordant laugh, pointed to 
 the sky which was now clearing, and held out 
 his palsied hand, when I discovered he knew 
 another word, not Slave, nor Italian, but this 
 time German, " Geschenk /" 1 gave him the only 
 bit of silver I possessed, an English sixpence, and 
 left him seemingly contented. 
 
 The clouds had all melted away, and the sun 
 shone brilliantly when I left the little roadside 
 tavern of San Canziano to return to Trieste ; but, 
 as I wanted to visit a stud-park which the .Emperor 
 of Austria keeps in this part of his dominions, we 
 took another route on my return journey. The 
 country we now drove through was prettier than what 
 we had traversed in the morning, and the road 
 passed through some fine oak woods, which con- 
 stantly prompted one to look out for a man- 
 sion, the country appeared so park-like — but in 
 vain. 
 
 After a drive of an hour or so we came to 
 the stud-farm, a collection of large buildings, 
 consisting of several dwelling-houses, a spacious riding- 
 house for exercising the horses in seyere weather, 
 three large stables intended to accommodate three
 
 Stable and Grooming. 59 
 
 hundred mares, and one lofty vaulted stable 
 fitted with nice large loose boxes in which were 
 kept the sires. The mares were all out at grass 
 together with their foals, so that I did not see them, 
 as I should have had to drive some miles in a 
 different direction, and turn my back on Trieste 
 in order to visit them. The sires I did see, but 
 as they were not led out I could not form as 
 accurate an opinion of them as I should have 
 wished. They seemed, however, small, and not 
 exactly the style of horse we would select in 
 this country with a view to supplying our cavalry. 
 The loose-boxes were commodious and the stable 
 was well-ventilated ; the weather being extremely 
 hot the windows were closed with tatties^ which 
 served the double purpose of keeping away the 
 flies, which always seek the light, and keeping 
 the stable cool. The stable was fairly clean, 
 but the grooming did not come up to our ideas. 
 On the whole I was disappointed, and as for 
 the produce, I should think that nothing but the 
 very lightest of light cavalry horses could be 
 expected from them. 
 
 We returned to Trieste by nine o'clock, coming
 
 GO 
 
 Return to Trieste. 
 
 by the old post-road from Vienna, and passing 
 by that wonderful quarry of hmestone slabs, perhaps 
 the largest in the world.
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 THE "SAN CARLO" AND HEB PASSENGEBS-A DALMATIAN'S 
 REMARKS ON THE PRESERVATION OF HEALTH IN INDIA- 
 DALMATIAN DIGGERS FROM AUSTRALIA-COAST OF ISTRIA- 
 PIRANO-CATHEDRAL OF PARENZO-BOYIGNO-POLA-THE 
 AMPHITHEATRE - PICTURESQUE SIGHT - GIOVANNI AS- 
 
 TONISHED-MONTENEGRIN COSTUME-ZABA-EXTREME HEAT. 
 
 N the 2nd of July I was up betimes. 
 I had taken my place for Zara on 
 f^ board the ' San Carlo/ a small coasting 
 steamer which trades down the Dalmatian side of 
 the Adriatic, going in and out among that archi- 
 pelago of islands which fringe the coast of 
 Dalmatia from the mouth of the Guarnero to the 
 entrance of the Gulf of Cattaro. It was a small, 
 slow, and dirty little steamer, but it stopped
 
 62 Dalmatian from India. 
 
 everywhere going on its way, and that was just 
 what I wanted. 
 
 Small as the vessel was, we had plenty of 
 passengers, and a strange lot they were. We had 
 two Capuchin monks going to Ragusa, one of them 
 a most interesting man of whom I shall have more 
 to say by and by ; his lay brother, a simple, 
 ignorant monk, and no more. We had a tall, 
 handsome Dalmatian from Spalato, returning home 
 to end his days in opulence and comfort after 
 spending twenty years in India, where ' he had 
 accumulated an independence which in Dalmatia 
 will be considered a large fortune. He spoke 
 English remarkably well. Being struck by his- 
 hale and robust looks, I asked him how he had 
 managed to preserve his health so well after residing 
 for twenty years in India. " Many of them," added he, 
 " in unhealthy localities." " Simply by not drinking," 
 he answered. "I don't mean to say that I was 
 a water-drinker — not at all, for I believe that 
 water-drinking is nearly as bad as spirit-drink- 
 ing, and indeed I think I have observed that 
 those who were * teatotallers ' died even sooner 
 than drunkards. But I never drank anything
 
 Diggers from Australia. 63 
 
 before breakfast, I drank nothing but good, full- 
 bodied claret, and I never took more than two 
 bottles of it a day, and seldom so much ; I smoked, 
 but always in moderation, and I never had a day's 
 illness during those twenty years. India is not a 
 bad climate, it is the reckless habits of Europeans 
 that make it apparently so." 
 
 We had two other Dalmatians from Sebenico, 
 who also were returning home after residing many 
 years abroad. These two had been in Australia ; 
 one had been a digger, and seemed the reverse of 
 well-off; the other had kept a store at some gold- 
 diggings, and had apparently made plenty of money. 
 Both spoke English well, and the last one brought 
 with him from Australia an Irish wife, who had 
 emigrated to the Antipodes all the way from 
 Lurgan. She was a fine comely young woman 
 of about tw^enty-six, and was overjoyed at finding 
 I knew her native place. In the afternoon I made 
 some tea in my portable kitchen, and gave her a 
 cup of it with some preserved milk, which she 
 declared the most delicious thing she had tasted 
 for many a long day. 
 
 The rest of our passengers consisted of country
 
 64 Cathedral of Parenzo. 
 
 people returning to their homes along the 
 coast of Istria and Dalmatia, after having been 
 to Trieste to dispose of the produce of their 
 lands. 
 
 As the clocks struck five, we steamed out of 
 Trieste on one of the finest mornings that could 
 be imagined. The sea was as smooth as a mirror, 
 and of the most intense blue. How often we 
 stopped as we went down the coast of Istria I 
 cannot tell, as we were constantly heaving to 
 for the convenience of passengers going on shore 
 in boats which put off to receive them ; we did stop 
 however at Capo d'Istria, and then at Pirano, 
 where I was able to take a rough sketch of that 
 most picturesque little town, with its beautiful 
 mediaeval castle perched on the cliff behind 
 it. 
 
 Then we came to Parenzo, where I should very 
 much have liked to go ashore for a couple of 
 hours to look at the cathedral, of which I had 
 heard so much, but unfortunately the little business 
 the steamer had to transact was done in a few 
 minutes, and the Captain would not delay (pro- 
 bably because my bribe was insufficient), so I had
 
 Cathedral of Parenza. 65 
 
 to comfort myself with the hope of seeing it on 
 some future occasion, when I trust to be able 
 again to visit all those spots which interested me 
 so much then, as also many other places in the 
 same countries, which accidental circumstances pre- 
 vented me from seeing. 
 
 The Cathedral of Parenzo, which I was so 
 anxious to see, and which had been described to 
 me by a friend at Trieste as a meraviglia, was 
 founded by Bishop Eupatius, and completed in the 
 year 526; it is therefore as old as St. Sophia of 
 Constantinople, and older than any other Cathedral 
 in Europe. " It is said to have a semicircular 
 apse behind the altar, with the Bishop's throne, 
 and seats on either side for the clergy, instances of 
 which are now so rarely to be met with."* .... 
 
 " At the east end is a round apse, as glorious 
 in its mosaics as St. Mark's, or St. Sophia. Every 
 part of the wall and rounded roof is covered with 
 mosaics, &c. A group of nine saints and angels 
 surrounding the Blessed Virgin and Child, on a 
 golden background, is exquisitely done. Heads of 
 
 * Sir J. G. Wilkinson's '• Dalmatia and Montenegro." 
 
 F
 
 6Q TJie Baldacchino. 
 
 saints adorn the arches, all are beautiful. Below 
 these, to about ten feet high, the walls are inlaid 
 with whole shells of mother-of-pearl let into a dark 
 brown stone ; it looks just like a piece of Damascus 
 furniture, and though rude it is effective and 
 beautiful. 
 
 " The flooring of the whole church is of course 
 mosaic, in Byzantine patterns, the same as in 
 Murano and St. Mark's ; but one can scarcely 
 look at anything after the wall mosaics, save the 
 capitals of the columns. The pillars themselves 
 are of a fine brown marble ; the capitals are 
 identically the same as those in Santa Sophia, 
 one more exquisitely under-cut than the other 
 into lace-work of leaves, flowers, birds, &c. ; 
 they are perhaps a little bolder than those of 
 St. Sophia, but full of life and spirit, not a line 
 wasted nor a thought thrown away. I longed 
 to sketch them, but I could only hope they may 
 one day be photographed ; Jerusalem and Constanti- 
 nople alone can rival them. 
 
 " The Baldacchino is exceedingly curious and fine, 
 as are also the very ancient altar hangings. 
 There is a splendid altar front, of solid silver
 
 Pola. 67 
 
 gilt, of the Renaissance date. The interest ap- 
 pertaining to this is that it is placed at the back 
 of the altar for high mass, facing the Bishop, 
 who is seated behind the altar^ as at Torcello ; 
 this is an ancient and I believe unique privilege. 
 
 " The Chapel of St. Andrew, at the north-east 
 corner of the church, is very interesting and 
 curious. There has been a porch or cloister at the 
 west entrance, but only two or three columns 
 remain of it. I venture to think this church 
 is well worth a special journey from England to see. 
 I could think of nothing else the rest of the day, 
 although our onward voyage was full of beauty."* 
 
 We then came to Rovigno with its beautiful 
 campanile, and here again I could not get half 
 an hour to go on shore to look at it, though 
 I believe there is not much more to be seen 
 beside it. 
 
 At three p.m. we came in sight of the harbour 
 of Pola— the Portsmouth of Austria ; — but Pola 
 itself we could not see, as it lies at the bottom 
 of a bay communicating with the sea by a deep 
 
 * Lady Strangford's " Eastern Shores of the Adriatic." 
 
 F 2
 
 (jS Attractions of Tola. 
 
 and winding channel, apparently well defended by 
 numerous forts which surround it. The harbour 
 itself is of very considerable dimensions, and so 
 deep that the largest vessels can come alongside 
 the quays. 
 
 Although so important a place, there did not 
 appear to be much life or bustle about it. The 
 country around it is flat and marshy, and some- 
 times in the year very unhealthy. It must have 
 been, however, an important place in the days of 
 ancient Rome, judging from the size of its .amphi- 
 theatre, and the beauty of the Temple and 
 triumphal arches which still remain, and which 
 constitute after all the great attractions of Pola. 
 They are quite close to the landing, so they can be 
 visited with the utmost facility during the stay 
 which the steamer generally makes there. The 
 amphitheatre alone is worth a special visit, as the 
 exterior of it is perfect, and at a short distance does 
 not even look like a ruin. It dates from the third 
 century and is very fine. It consists of a base- 
 ment story about four hundred and thirty feet in 
 length, by three hundred and fifty feet in width, 
 surmounted by two tiers of arches, with half columns
 
 The Amphitheatre. 69 
 
 of the Tuscan order between each, all about eighty 
 feet high. 
 
 Beautifully preserved as is the exterior, the 
 condition of the interior is most disappointing, 
 as nothing remains of the internal arrangement 
 except on one side, the one furthest from the 
 sea, where there are still a few seats cut in 
 the rock, some even bearing what most probably 
 were the initials of their owners carved into 
 them. 
 
 What can have caused this utter ruin of all 
 the accommodation for the spectators? Have the 
 natives from time to time removed the building 
 materials from the inside, for the purpose of 
 building the modern town ? not daring to lay 
 a sacrilegious hand on the shell of the building 
 itself, which bore no semblance to a ruin, while 
 at the same time they treated the interior as 
 a quarry ! or were the seats made of wood- 
 work, and destroyed by fire, as some have 
 imagined ? 
 
 The steamer always remains long enough to 
 permit the traveller to visit the amphitheatre and 
 the temples, as well as the triumphal arches, and
 
 70 Gulf of Quarnero. 
 
 to take a stroll through the Piazza. I did so, and 
 still further improved the passing hour by eating an 
 excellent dinner alfresco under a pergola of vines at 
 the Trattoria of the place. 
 
 It was just dark as I got on board again, having 
 been warned by the unmusical steam-whistle that 
 the vessel would soon be under way again. Just 
 before starting, a military band came to play 
 before the Commandant's house, which is on the 
 quays just opposite to where the steamer was 
 moored. It being now dark, the band was 
 accompanied by a score of soldiers carrying a 
 peculiarly shaped lantern fastened to the top of a 
 pole, to enable the men to see their music. At 
 first as the band came marching down the quays 
 with their lights dancing high up in the air before 
 and behind, I could not make out what it was, 
 and only for the liveliness of the music I might 
 have thought it was a funeral, the whole thing was 
 very picturesque and the music excellent. At last 
 we got under way and steamed out of the 
 harbour on our way to the coast of Dalmatia, 
 across the Gulf of the Quarnero, so well known 
 for its dangerous navigation and so much dreaded
 
 Magnificent Night. 71 
 
 even by the hardy sailors of the Adriatic, when 
 swept by the fierce impetuous Bora. 
 
 Fortunately for me, who am not the most 
 intrepid of mariners, and who prefer admiring a 
 tempestuous sea from off a rocky vantage point 
 upon the shore, to tossing on its stormy waves, 
 the dreaded Ouarnero was as smooth as a mill- 
 pond. The night was magnificent ; the heavens 
 cloudless, and studded with countless stars, but 
 scarcely as bright as I have seen them at other 
 times, owing to the intense brilliancy of the 
 moon now nearly at the full. The track of the 
 steamer was clearly marked out far in the rear 
 by a broad phosphorescent wake, while the water 
 which was dashed off from the paddles seemed liKe 
 liquid fire. 
 
 The cabins were all occupied, so I had to make 
 my bed on deck ; but even if I could have got 
 or.e, I never could have slept below, it was so 
 hot and stuffy. I was soon settled for the night ; 
 a doubled-up rug laid lengthwise on the deck 
 was my bed, and my dressing-bag was my pillow. 
 It was so warm that I required no covering save 
 my light tweed suit, and I was no sooner down
 
 72 
 
 Astonishing the Steward. 
 
 than I was fast asleep. I don't know how long 
 I slept ; but I would have slept still longer, if I 
 had not been awoke by the steamer stopping to 
 put down and take up passengers and goods at 
 some place on the coast of Dalmatia. 
 
 We had safely crossed the mouth of the Quarnero, 
 the moon had set, and the blue black vault of 
 heaven was studded with countless stars sparkling 
 like diamonds. The steamer was hove to a little 
 distance from the shore, while scores of boats, each 
 with a coloured lantern at the prow, came and 
 went, making as pretty a scene as can be imagined ; 
 but for all that, after sitting up and admiring it 
 tor a few minutes, I lay down again on my rug, 
 and falling asleep never awoke again till the sun was 
 high in the heavens the next morning. 
 
 By degrees the passengers one by one came on 
 deck, when by making interest with Giovanni, the 
 steward, I obtained the use of a earner hw (cabin) 
 to make my toilet in. Having completed my 
 ablutions I called in Giovanni to empty my tub, 
 for as the camerino was extremely small it was 
 next to impossible to stand in it, unless with one's 
 feet in the water. Never was steward so astonished
 
 Mackintosh Tub. 73 
 
 and so puzzled as Giovanni was at the sight of 
 my flimsy mackintosh tub; he had no idea of how 
 to take it up to empty it, he was afraid to touch 
 it until 1 had taken it up on three sides and showed 
 him how to lift it, when he was so delighted 
 with the whole arrangement that he placed it 
 on the table of the cabin just as it was, and 
 fetched down the passengers to see the ingenious 
 English device. By the time it had been well 
 examined and then emptied, I was up and dressed. 
 When I came out of the camerino, I showed the 
 assembled company how it could be rolled up 
 into the smallest compass, and stowed away in a 
 travelling bag. 
 
 There was no recrular breakfast on board, 
 but everyone as he wanted it got a cup of 
 coffee and a bit of bread or a biscuit ; preserved 
 milk also could be had, but of butter there was 
 none. 
 
 Our passengers had somewhat varied since leaving 
 Trieste. We had deposited many on the coast of 
 Istria as we went along, and taken up others in 
 their place. We had a remarkable Oriental-look- 
 ing woman, plain perhaps, and yet handsome, a
 
 74 Costume of Montenegrin Women. 
 
 Montenegrin of rank, a cousin of the present 
 Prince, dressed in full native costume. She was 
 on her way to her native country to petition 
 the Prince to permit certain of his cousins, who 
 had been expatriated for political causes, to return 
 to their homes. 
 
 The costume of the Montenegrin women is not 
 becoming ; even this handsome woman, and the 
 beautiful Princess whom I subsequently had the 
 honour of seeing at Montenegro, failed tg render 
 it attractive to my eyes, whereas the costume of the 
 men is eminently becoming. This lady's dress 
 consisted of a sort of white chemise of fine lawn, 
 tight, but gathered very full round the neck, 
 without any frill, and open down the front for 
 six or eight inches, where it was closed by a row 
 of very small buttons. This white garment, which 
 reached down to the ankles, was fastened round 
 her waist by a massive silver belt, made in com- 
 partments three inches by four and joined together 
 by hinges. Each compartment was highly orna- 
 mented with rich repousse work in aito. 7'ilievo, and 
 from a side-piece hung down several ornaments of 
 the chatelaine species, while from the other side
 
 Montenegrin Costume. 75 
 
 depended an exquisite little dagger in a sheath of 
 silver repousse. 
 
 The sleeves of this white garment were tight 
 at the shoulders, but grew wider and wider as 
 they approached the wrist, where they were 
 upwards of two feet six inches in diameter. They 
 were bordered with a rich margin of embroidery 
 in gold and silver thread, mingled with red and 
 blue silk, in excellent taste, and the same embroi- 
 dery was continued up the external seam of the 
 sleeve on the outside of the elbow up to the 
 shoulder. From below the silver belt she wore 
 a large apron of rich black silk coming down to 
 her ankles, and over all a peculiar white cloth 
 coat without sleeves, the typical garment of the 
 Montenegrins, both male and female. This coat 
 was made of a very soft white cloth, so close and 
 yet soft and pliable, that although sitting next to 
 her and touching it with my finger, I could not at 
 once determine if it was cloth or some sort of 
 beautifully tanned leather. As I said before, this 
 coat was without sleeves or collar, but scooped 
 tight to the back of the neck. In front it did 
 not come further forward than about half way
 
 76 Austr'uni Officers. 
 
 between the point of the shoulders and the middle 
 of the neck, and then straight down like a sack 
 till just below the calf of the leg. This coat was 
 bound right round the whole way with a narrow 
 pattern of embroidery in the same style as round 
 the sleeves of the muslin dress, and in addition 
 had a rev of very small round silver buttons down 
 the front on one side. On her head she wore a 
 very large black Indian silk kerchief fastened into 
 her hair with pins, and hanging down behind her 
 back as low as her waist. 
 
 The costume is decidedly ugly, though contain- 
 ing the elements of great beautv, if only put 
 together with taste and harmony. Nothing, for, 
 instance, can be more attractive and becoming than 
 that black kerchief, be it of silk, gauze or lace, 
 when gracefully put on the head, as the women 
 of Spain or Genoa know so well how to wear it ; 
 but the Montenegrin arrangement is as clumsy 
 and inelegant in the women as it is manly and 
 picturesque in the men. 
 
 We had on board also several Austrian officers 
 going to join their quarters, some to Zara and 
 some to Cattaro, Budua, and Kosmatch. Very
 
 Zara. 77 
 
 nice, pleasant, gentlemanlike fellows they were, 
 some of them speaking French, but all able to 
 converse freely in Italian, and all well-informed, 
 agreeable companions. Acquaintances are made 
 much more easily abroad than in England, so we 
 were soon quite at home together, and what with 
 chatting, smoking and walking up and down the 
 deck, we quickly passed over the time, till at ten 
 o'clock a.m., we came in front of Zara, celebrated 
 in ancient times for its long siege, when "in 
 1346 Marino Faliero earned his laurels by the 
 most daring assault," and in modern times for its 
 excellent Maraschino 1 
 
 Zara is an important place even at the present 
 time. It is the capital of Dalmatia, and the seat 
 of the Archibishop of the province. It is well- 
 built, clean, and tolerably well-paved, and well- 
 worth a visit. The time, however, allowed by 
 the stay of the steamer is amply sufficient to 
 enable one to see it ; but the heat was so great 
 that I felt more inclined to stay on board smoking 
 cigarettes under the awning of the steamer than 
 to go on shore. The prospect of some ca/e a la 
 glace^ however, which I knew was to be obtained
 
 78 Uot Weather. 
 
 In the Piazza, added to the more important fact 
 that I was to receive here a letter for the Archi- 
 mandrite of Montenegro, induced me to shake off 
 my apathy. 
 
 Having landed on the quay, I passed through 
 the gate over which is sculptured the grim effigy 
 of the Lion of St. Mark, everywhere seen down 
 the Eastern shores of the Adriatic wheresoever the 
 Venetians had established their authority, I pro- 
 ceeded to execute my plans ; but the heat was so 
 intense that I was glad to come back to the steamer 
 where I imagined it was something less stifling. 
 But this day was unusually hot and close, and 
 with the exception of one at Cattaro, when the 
 the thermometer registered at four o'clock p.m., 
 105° Fahrenheit, was the hottest I experienced in 
 all my journey.
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM ZARA-SEBENICO-PLEASANT COMPANIONS- 
 NOBLE HARBOTTR-THE CATHEDRAL-CURIOUS ROOF-CORAL 
 FISHERY-SPALATO - SALONA - DIOCLETIAN'S PALACE - MR. 
 PATON'S DESCRIPTION OF IT-BEAUTIFUL SPECTACLE-THE 
 PORTA FERREA-QUAINT DWELLINGS-AMBROSIAL TOBACCO. 
 
 T about one o'clock p.m. we steamed 
 away from Zara while we were at 
 dinner, and at five p.m. reached Sebe- 
 nico. Should I ever travel again in 
 that part of the world, I think I should try to go 
 from Zara to Sebenico by land in order to see the 
 ruins of Asseria, which I learnt afterwards were 
 well worth a visit; but the journey should in that 
 case be undertaken earlier in the year, to avoid the 
 oppressive heats.
 
 80 Agreeable Covijmnions, 
 
 The afternoon between leaving Zara and arriving 
 at Sebenico passed quickly away, for I had the 
 advantage of two most agreeable companions ; one 
 the capuchin monk, the other a charming young 
 fellow, an officer in an Austrian Jager regiment, 
 Baron Heyd von Heydeg. 
 
 The Capuchin was a most interesting man, and 
 we chatted many an hour together by moonlight on 
 the deck, when every one else had gone to sleep, 
 when- I used to chaff him about the rules of his 
 order, which forbid the smoking of tobacco, while 
 they permit the use of snuff without any restric- 
 tion. He used to take it most good-humour- 
 edly, and laughed as if his sides would split" 
 when I would refuse to take a pinch of his snuff 
 unless he smoked one of my cigarettes. I verily 
 think I should have brought him round at last, 
 had he not been constantly under the surveil- 
 lance, and in mortal " soggezione' of his lay 
 brother. 
 
 Heyd was a different fellow altogether, but 
 most agreeable. He was going to join his regi- 
 ment, then quartered at Budua. We travelled 
 together as far as Cattaro, and I met him sub-
 
 Sehenico. °1 
 
 sequently both at Cettigne and Budua, where I 
 went expressly to pay him a visit. 
 
 The time sped swiftly and most agreeably in 
 spite of the heat, and at five o'clock p.m. we 
 steamed through the narrow tortuous opening, 
 bordered by steep rocky sides, which leads into 
 the bay, at the furthur end of which stands 
 Sebenico. It is a noble harbour, and so deep 
 that a frigate can lie alongside the quay. At 
 the narrowest part of its entrance, the approach 
 is defended by what a few years ago would have 
 been considered a masterpiece of fortification, but 
 which at present would offer too fair a target to 
 our projectiles to afford any great protection against 
 an enemy. It is still worth a visit, as its case- 
 mates are perhaps among the finest in the world. 
 It was engineered and buih in 1546, by the cele- 
 brated architect San Micheli. The entrance to the 
 fortress is surmounted by the usual Venetian Lion 
 with the following inscription : — 
 
 '« Pax tibi Marce Evangelista meus."* 
 
 * In August, 1647, a Pasha of Bosnia, pouring an army of 30,000 
 men into the lowlands, attempted the capture of Sebenico and its
 
 82 The Cathedral 
 
 Having landed with Baron Heyd, who had been 
 quartered there some time before, for cicerone, I pro- 
 proceeded to inspect the Duomo, or cathedral, the 
 principal object of interest there. Some people 
 are lost in admiration of this cathedral, I really 
 could not see much about it to admire, and the two 
 statues on its facade representing Adam and Eve 
 (they might as well be Gog and Magog) are simply 
 detestable. But the roof of the cathedral is a 
 curiosity m itself, and worth the journey. It 
 is of its kind unique, and though it is' said to 
 be perfectly safe, and I suppose must be so, 
 having continued so for so many years, still I could 
 not help feeling a sense of insecurity as long as T 
 was in the church, and enjoyed great relief when I 
 finally came out of it. 
 
 This roof is simply a semi-cylinder made of 
 enormous slabs of stone joined edge to edge, but 
 so beautifully adapted and fitted one into the 
 other that, without any other support save what 
 they afford each other, they form the vault of this 
 
 fort ; but it was so well defended by the 6000 Venetians and German 
 mercenaries of the garrison, that after twenty-six days' cannonade the 
 Pasha was obliged to retire.
 
 Ttamhle tJivough the Streets. 83 
 
 cathedral. I trust they may never crack ; but I, 
 for one, could never say my prayers with comfort 
 under such a roof. 
 
 Having taken a ramble through the streets, which 
 were clean and contained many fine mansions, we 
 went up to the fort on the hill behind the town, 
 and which commands the whole place, where we 
 passed a pleasant hour with the officers of the 
 garrison. 
 
 My time being limited, I was unable to make 
 an expedition from Sebenico, which under different 
 circumstances I should certainly have undertaken, 
 that is to the falls of the Kerka and the monastery 
 above them. My friend, the Capuchin, who had 
 travelled a good deal both in Europe and America, 
 and had a good eye for the picturesque, told me 
 they were well worth seeing ; but like many 
 other interesting spots down that coast, I 
 must only hope to visit them at some future 
 time. 
 
 At dusk we returned to the steamer, though 
 we knew it would not leave till the following 
 morning early, and we could have spent a most 
 pleasant night on shore ; but Sebenico shuts its 
 
 G 2
 
 8-i Conil Fishery. 
 
 gates at sunset, and then till the following sun- 
 rise no one can come in or go out, and had we 
 attempted it we should only have lost our 
 passage. 
 
 Having partaken of an excellent supper, I 
 returned to the deck, where, as was my wont, I 
 sat down beside my friend the Capuchin, who 
 always took a cup of coffee with me though he 
 would not consent to smoke. We chatted till very 
 late, \yhen he went down to his camerino, and I 
 settled myself on deck as usual for my night's sleep. 
 It turned out awfully hot, as the steamer remained 
 till break of day in the harbour of Sebenico, but 
 what must it have been in the cabin ? 
 
 At the very earliest dawn we left our moorings, 
 and steamed out of the harbour by its well guarded 
 entrance. Just outside we passed a group of small 
 islands, amons which is established a considerable 
 coral fishery. The coral is not however of the 
 finest quality, mostly of the common deep red 
 kind, and is principally sold on the spot or at 
 the fair of Sinigaglia in the Romagna on the 
 opposite or Italian side of the Adriatic. • 
 
 The dawn was just merging into daylight, when
 
 Spalato. 85 
 
 we steamed out of that land-locked harbour. It 
 had been stiflingly hot as long as we had lani still 
 alongside the quay, but the moment we came out 
 into the open sea, the 
 
 " . . . . Aura messaggiera .... 
 Ad annunziar che se ne vien TAiirora," 
 
 came with a most refreshing breeze, so light, how- 
 ever, as not even to raise a " cat's paw" on the 
 glassy waters, but still deliciously cool and in- 
 vigorating. 
 
 The steward was not long manufacturing me a 
 good cup of coffee, after which, having made 
 myself comfortable in a capital arm-chair, I again 
 went to sleep, not to awake until Giovanni sum- 
 moned me again, "per far colazione." 
 
 In the course of the morning we reached 
 Spalato, a beautiful and most interesting place, 
 where an artist could with advantage spend many 
 days. It was celebrated in ancient times for the 
 gorgeous palace which the Emperor Diocletian 
 built for himself after abdicating the Empire in 
 303 A.D., and the magnificent remains of which 
 still form the glory of the present city. After a
 
 86 Palace of Diocletian. 
 
 reign of twenty years, " Diocletian executed his 
 memorable resolution of abdicating the Empire," 
 and acquired the glory of giving to the world the 
 most remarkable, if not the first, example of a 
 resignation which has not been very frequently 
 imitated by succeeding monarchs. Withdrawing 
 to Salona, he passed the last nine years of his life 
 in seclusion — the building of a palace in the 
 neighbourhood, and the superintendence of his 
 garden, , occupying his leisure hours. The 
 satisfaction he derived from these pursuits is 
 sufficiently proved by his well-known answer to 
 Maximian, when urging him to re-assume the 
 purple, " If I could show you the cabbages I have 
 planted with my own hands at Salona, you would 
 no longer urge me to relinquish the enjoyment of 
 happiness for the pursuit of power." 
 
 This immense palace, which covered very nearly 
 nine English acres of ground, was almost a perfect 
 square terminating at the four corners bv a quad- 
 rangular tower. Its faces were directed as nearly 
 as possible to the four cardinal points — the southern 
 side being pointed to the shore and facing the sea. 
 It still exists in good preservation and forms a grand
 
 Extent of the Palace. 87 
 
 object of attraction to the visitor entering the 
 harbour. Two streets intersected each other at 
 right angles nearly in the centre of it, which has 
 lately been completely excavated and is now fully 
 exposed to view. 
 
 The following description by the late Mr. Paton 
 (author of " Highlands and Islands of the Adriatic," 
 one of the most charming books ever printed) 
 will convey to the reader a far clearer impression 
 than anything I could pen ; I therefore make 
 no apology for inserting it here, and whoever 
 should wish to go still deeper into the matter 
 and learn all that is to be learned concerning 
 this palace, I refer him to- Mr. Adams' book 
 " Spalato Restored," which is a perfectly exhaus- 
 tive treatise on the subject. 
 
 " At the outset we are struck with the enor- 
 mous extent of the palace, which is not less 
 than nine acres and a half; so that even Con- 
 stantine Porphyrogenitus speaks of it with admira- 
 tion, as one of the greatest edifices then extant. 
 In the time of Diocletian, his great retinue and 
 a pretorian cohort could be lodged with convenience 
 in it. Sixteen towers gave strength and elegance
 
 88 The Peristylium. 
 
 to the edifice, of which the largest were those 
 at the four corners. The back of the edifice looked 
 to the north-east on the land-side, and there was the 
 principal entrance, the Porta Aurea, or golden gate, 
 which led to the Peristylium, a great court of 
 granite columns ; and the cross street which inter- 
 sected the principal passage at right angles was 
 terminated at each end by gates, the one the 
 Porta Ferrea, or iron gate, the other the Porta 
 ^nea, or gate of brass, which are so called to this 
 day. 
 
 " This peristylium, or court of granite columns, 
 was flanked by two temples; the greater of Jupiter, 
 and the smaller of Esculapius ; the former, a 
 lofty octagon, was ascended by a stair of fifteen 
 steps ; an uneven number being generally found in 
 the temples of the ancients, that, beginning to 
 move with the right foot, they might, of course, 
 place it first upon the uppermost step in order to 
 enter the temple — a form which was accounted 
 respectful in approaching the Deity. From the 
 peristylium, or court of granite columns, the Roman 
 entered the principal inhabited part of the palace ; 
 first was the porticus of Corinthian order, then the
 
 The CryptO'Forticus. 89 
 
 circular dome-covered vestibulum, with the Lares 
 and Penates ; then the atrium, or quadrangular 
 hall, ninety-eight by forty-five with its arms and 
 trophies dedicated to ancestry ; and last of all 
 the crypto-porticus, or grand gallery, looking to 
 the south-west, thus facing the sea, and forming 
 a noble promenade of five hundred and fifteen feet 
 in length, in which, during the heat of Summer 
 or inclemency of Winter, the Emperor could take 
 exercise. This crypto-porticus was the principal 
 feature of the palace, and the well-known taste 
 of Diocletian leads us to suppose that the choicest 
 statuary and paintings of the Old World must have 
 adorned its walls. The relics of Pompeii give 
 some idea of the classic fancy in ornament, the 
 harmonizing contrasts in colour, and the consum- 
 mate skill in tessellation employed in the domestic 
 architecture of the ancients ; and if we relieve these 
 splendours with the latest fascination in the 
 •unpretending forms of Greek statuary, how puny 
 is the utmost magnificence of Versailles compared 
 with the dwelling of the retired Roman ! 
 
 "Such was the Palace of Diocletian; what now 
 remains of the edifice } The shell or outer wall.
 
 90 Boats ivlth Lateens. 
 
 of which the best preserved part is the grand 
 gallery facing the sea ; for Spalato like its 
 contemporary Baalbec being used as a fortification, 
 the rough stone and mortar of the middle-age 
 battlements surmount in many places the massive 
 normal masonry of the Roman Empire. . . . 
 Within the town, fragments of Roman architecture 
 are scattered thickly enough, but so obscured and 
 mingled with modern houses as to present a mass 
 of confusion." 
 
 Did we stop short here, the reader might well 
 imagine that beyond the shell, the walls which 
 surrounded the palace, nothing has been preserved ; 
 such however is not the case, and I shall now 
 endeavour to describe what I saw in Spalato the 
 morning that I steamed into its harbour, when from 
 the deck of my vessel 1 gazed on that sea studded 
 all over with numberless boats spreading the most 
 fantastic sails to the gentlest of breezes ! 
 
 The prevailing form, if not the only one, was the 
 lateen in all its varieties, most of the boats carrying 
 but one. But such colours and such devices 
 painted on them ! things that would look simply 
 outrageous at Cowes or Ryde, how lovely they
 
 Facade of the Palace. 91 
 
 seemed there! Some were striped from above 
 downwards with every colour of the rainbow, but 
 only two colours to each sail and these always 
 harmoniously contrasted; others of one uniform 
 colour, with some fantastic ornament in sharp 
 contrast in the middle ; while some, all of one colour 
 had at the topmost angle of the lateen a representa- 
 tion of the sun generally in burnished gold with its 
 rays coming down a long way over the sail. The 
 glittering golden sea, those fiiiry-looking boats 
 gliding over it, the picturesque costumes of the 
 sailors, the whole scene bathed in that golden light 
 was a fit preparation for my introduction to the rare 
 beauties of Spalato itself. 
 
 As we slowly approached the quay, there was 
 ample time to admire the long facade of Diocletian's 
 Palace, with the tall and elegant campanile which 
 rises hiside it on the right, and the strong hexagonal 
 machicolated tower on the left. The lofty steeple 
 on the right, a very Giralda of elegance and 
 airiness— the dungeon on the left a sturdy emblem 
 of the iron-fisted middle ages. 
 
 After some customary formalities, during which 
 I feasted my eyes on the picturesque groups that
 
 92 Vaulted Entrance to Spalato. 
 
 crowded on the quay, permission was finally given 
 to go ashore ; when crossing as quickly as could be 
 the narrow intervening space, I plunged through the 
 Porta Ferrea into the vaulted passage which on this 
 side gives entrance to the city of Spalato ; and now 
 commence the real difficulties of description, but 
 having undertaken it I must only try, trusting to the 
 kind forbearance of my readers. 
 
 This vaulted entrance is narrow, perhaps not twelve 
 feet wide, but very lofty and formed of immense 
 blocks of stone put together with wonderful 
 accuracy. After following it a little way, it opens 
 out into a spacious round hall rising up to a 
 considerable height, this portion being unroofed ; 
 from it open out several streets, all running about 
 here and there, crossing and recrossing each other 
 as if in search of light and air. The dwellings 
 in these streets are full of quaint artistic beauty ; 
 at one point one meets a massive wall of square-rut 
 blocks dating from the days of Diocletian, against 
 which, perhaps, is built up a modern house with 
 wrought-iron balconies of the most delicate 
 workmanship ; further on, an outside staircase of 
 rude stone steps, partly covered with a roof of
 
 Amhrosial TohaGco. 93 
 
 russet tiles, leads to a door some thirty feet above 
 our heads, from which a flying buttress crosses 
 over to an opening in an ancient wall beyond, where 
 a modern habitation has been constructed in some 
 mediaeval donjon. 
 
 Each turn brings a new surprise, and so one 
 passes on till one comes to the piazza, and this 
 day being a festival, it swarmed with natives from 
 all the surrounding campagne. The reader must 
 now come with me to the cafe^ where under a 
 thick awning and surrounded by a screen of 
 oleanders and orange-trees in full bloom, we shall 
 take a granita di caffe (a water-ice flavoured with 
 coffee), and study the moving panorama before us, 
 whilst we slowly puff away a cigarette made with 
 the ambrosial tobacco of Trebigna — a kind still 
 unknown in London and in Paris !
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 A TYPE OF SHTLOCK — SCENE IN THE STREET — VARIED COSTUMES 
 — MORLACCHI — TURKS FROM THE HERZEGOVINA — WOMEN OF 
 SPALATO — INSPECTION OF THE CITY — THE PORTA AUEEA— 
 COURT OF THE VESTIBULE OF THE PALACE — INTERIOR OP 
 THE CATHEDRAL— ILLUSTRIOUS MEN OP SPALATO— MARK 
 ANTONY DE DOMINIS — ST. JEROME — THE MORLACCHI. 
 
 ^^^ITTING down cross-legged on the 
 ^111 If* very oldest and dirtiest of rugs, and 
 
 just outside our fragrant hedge of 
 oleander, is to be seen an old Jew, 
 the finest type of a Shylock that could be imagined ; 
 with ample, heavy, flowing beard, aquiline nose 
 with sharp cut nostril, and deep-set piercing eyes 
 shadowed by an ample turban. He has before him, 
 on his rug, a collection of arms, pistols of the old 
 approved Turkish form and yataghans of every
 
 Motley Group. 95 
 
 price, from the common horn-handled weapon in a 
 wooden sheath to the jewel-hilted Kharjar in a 
 sheath of repousse silver. Around is a motley 
 group of countrymen, all talking at the top of 
 their voices in their several languages, whilst 
 examining and praising or depreciating the weapons 
 there for sale, just as they are either simple flaneurs 
 in the square, or really intending purchasers. The 
 varieties of costume rendered this picturesque 
 group most interesting, there were Morlacchi from 
 the neighbouring mountains with full blue Turkish 
 trowsers fast to the knee ; gold embroidered 
 crimson jackets without sleeves, and gaiters to 
 match ; the whole finished off by an immense Albanian 
 scarf of many colours wound round the waist, 
 holding a perfect armoury of weapons in the front. 
 On the head most of them wore a small red fez, 
 others wore a turban, but it was not put on like 
 the Jews, they did not seem au fait in settling it ; 
 but whatever head-gear they adopted they all were 
 decorated with a tail — a genuine plaited tail coming 
 down their backs with such luxuriance that it might 
 have been the envy of any Celestial. I could not 
 bring myself to like it — though report says that
 
 96 Various Nationalities. 
 
 the Morlacchi are wonderfully attached to their 
 tails, and cherish and pet them somewhat in the 
 manner of our old tars in the days of Collingwood 
 and Nelson. 
 
 There were Turks from the Herzegovina, ill- 
 looking, badly-clad, scowling Mussulmans, who 
 would willingly have earned ten paras by sending 
 a Christian to his latter home, but still gorgeous 
 in their tatters and vermin. There were Christian 
 Albanians with their white fustanellas, high aqui- 
 line nose, glittering eyes, and false smile, in dress 
 somewhat similar to the Morlacchi, but wearing a 
 smaller fez with a long blue tassel. Conspicuous 
 above them all was a Risanese from the Gulf of 
 Cattaro, in full Montenegrin costume; but with 
 a green instead of the white characteristic coat, all 
 overladen about the breast and shoulders with 
 plates of solid gold of considerable thickness, 
 especially over the shoulders, where they would, 
 if required, afford some protection from the blow of 
 a sabre. 
 
 Mingled with the men were several women — 
 some very good-looking — with golden-brown hair 
 and dark eyes and eyelashes ; their hair in plaits.
 
 Porta Aurea. 97 
 
 not hanging but coiled round their heads, which 
 were further adorned with Turkish piastres and 
 other coins. The dress is a mixture of red, white, 
 and blue artistically combined, with coral and 
 coins twisted round their necks. 
 
 The noise of this Babel of tongues was deafening, 
 and the scene not to be described. One wretched, 
 tattered old man, but armed to the teeth like the 
 rest, long tried to persuade me to buy a hank 
 of onions, and would not be gainsaid when told by 
 one of the waiters of the cafe that I was a traveller 
 and did not require onions ; what better or more 
 portable provisions could I carry with me in my 
 travels than onions ^ said he. 
 
 Having finished my granita^ I again started 
 to explore the city ; this time under the guidance of 
 a most obliging gentleman, well versed in the 
 antiquities of the place, and to whom I had brought 
 an introduction. We first went outside the city 
 to inspect the grand Porta Aurea. This had only 
 lately been thoroughly excavated, and even in its 
 present dilapidated condition, not so much the 
 effect of time as of the plundering propensities of 
 
 H
 
 98 Tem'ples. 
 
 man, is still most beautiful and grand. What 
 must it have been before the eight columns which 
 decorated its front were taken away to adorn some 
 modern church ? 
 
 From the Porta Aurea, we again got into the 
 city, proceeding straight to the court of the vestibule 
 of the Palace, where all that is best worth seeing 
 in Spalato is collected together. Here in front of 
 us was the facade of the peristyle, consisting of 
 four large and beautiful granite columns, supporting 
 a triangular pediment, and which occupied the 
 whole breadth of the court. On each side were 
 a row of six Corinthian columns, equally large, and 
 also of rose-coloured Egyptian granite, supporting' 
 not an architrave as is generally the case, but a 
 series of arches which sprang from their capitals. 
 On the right was the smaller temple, dedicated to 
 Esculapius, now converted into a baptistry, and dedi- 
 cated to St. John. On the left, the Temple of 
 Jupiter — now the Cathedral of Spalato, by the side 
 of which rises that most elegant campanile, the 
 Giralda of Spalato, only one hundred and ninety- 
 nine feet high, since the two upper " stories were 
 thrown down by lightning.
 
 Marh Anthonij cle Dominis. 99 
 
 The interior of the Cathedral does not offer 
 much to admire — nevertheless its general effect is 
 sufficiently imposing. But it is outside in the court, 
 the present piazza, that all the beauty of the place 
 reveals itself. It is not a ruin — of the sixteen 
 original granite columns not one has been dis- 
 placed, and this portion of the Palace of Spalato 
 is as in the days when Diocletian came into his 
 Temple to pray. Can the reader believe that all 
 this is really within five days of London ? 
 
 Dalmatia has been the birthplace of many men 
 of letters and science, and Spalato can boast of 
 having even given a Protestant Dean to our royal 
 Windsor, in the person of the celebrated Mark 
 Anthony de Dominis, once Catholic Archbishop 
 of Spalato, whose life and death would furnish 
 materials for a sensational novel. As his history 
 is not commonly known, it may, perhaps, interest 
 some of my readers to hear it now. 
 
 He was born about the year 1570, and educated 
 at the Illyrian College of the Jesuits, in Loretto, 
 from whence he passed to Padua, where he became 
 Professor of Mathematics. In the year 1600, he 
 
 H 2
 
 100 Accused of Heresy. 
 
 was created Bishop of Segna, and in 1602 he was 
 raised to the Archbishopric of Spalato, where, 
 during the terrible plague of 1607, he nobly distin- 
 guished himself by his liberality to the poor, and 
 his fearless and humane attendance on the sick in 
 the administration of his sacerdotal duties — emu- 
 lating the courage and devotion, under similar 
 circumstances, of Borromeo of Milan. He occupied 
 the Archiepiscopal throne of Spalato for fourteen 
 years, during which period his time was . divided 
 between the performance of his ecclesiastical duties, 
 and the investigations of science. He converted 
 the upper part of the Palace, at Spalato, into a 
 Laboratory and an Observatory, and the window 
 is still shown where he is supposed to have made 
 the discovery of the prismatic colour of light, " by 
 the falling drops of water ;" which discovery, in- 
 cluding a description of the nature of the rainbow, 
 he published to the world in a work printed at 
 Venice in 161 1. His fickleness in matters of 
 religion, however, proved his ruin ; his Chapter 
 accused him of heretical opinions, upon which he 
 withdrew to Venice at the close of 161 5, having 
 previously vacated his See in favour of his nephew
 
 Ueceptioii in England. 101 
 
 Sforza Ponsoni. During his residence in that city, 
 he wrote a work in favour of the Republic, which 
 was condemned by the Inquisition, when he deter- 
 mined on withdrawing, for safety, to a Protestant 
 country. 
 
 He went first to Heidelberg, and thence came 
 to England in the suite and at the invitation of 
 Sir Henry Wotton, Ambassador of James I. to the 
 Venetian Republic. In England, he published and 
 dedicated to James I. a history of the Council of 
 Trent, which had been lent him, it is said, by its 
 author, Fra Paolo Sarpi. He also edified the 
 Protestant public by an open recantation of his 
 religion in St. Paul's Cathedral, and then published 
 a work against the Papacy, entitled, " Scoglio del 
 Naufragio Christiano." He was particularly well 
 received in England ; and was patronized by the 
 King, who made him Dean of Windsor. He 
 seems, however, to have expected more, and to 
 have been disappointed at not getting a bishopric ; 
 and on Gregory XV, who was a friend and rela- 
 tive of his, succeeding him to the Papal throne, 
 he changed his religion again, and yielding to the 
 solicitations of the Pope, conveyed to him through
 
 102 Change of Religion. 
 
 the Spanish Ambassador, who promised him a Car- 
 dinal's Hat, he returned to Rome in 1622. 
 
 Gregory XV. received him kindly, and as long 
 as he lived De Dominis remained unmolested, but 
 at his death Pope Urban VIII., who succeeded 
 him, saw no reason to extend his protection over 
 the ex-Protestant Dean of Windsor ; he was accused 
 of heresy, handed over to the tender mercies of 
 the Holy Inquisition, and thrown into a dungeon 
 of the Castle of St. Angelo, where he died in 1625 
 — it is supposed by poison, and his body was sub- 
 sequently burned, together with his writings, in the 
 Campo dei Fiori. 
 
 De Dominis was a very distinguished philosopher, ' 
 and we must not be too severe when judging him 
 by the light of the present day. There can be 
 no doubt that the change from Popery to the Re- 
 formed religion was principally due, not to a feeling 
 of animosity against the Church of Rome, as many 
 have maintained, but chiefly to those doubts 
 concerning the truth of the things taught by 
 that church, and to its conduct in persisting to 
 refuse the results of the investigations of science, 
 as evinced by its treatment of Galileo and others.
 
 St. Jerome. 103 
 
 His return to the church Is more difficult to 
 account for on generous grounds ; but he, him- 
 self, is stated to have said that by becoming a 
 Cardinal he might be of greater use in effecting a 
 reformation in that community to which he had 
 originally belonged. The Holy Inquisition had 
 hoped to have enjoyed the satisfaction of publicly 
 roasting, " ad majorem Dei gloriam," a professor of 
 Natural Science, a renegade Catholic Archbishop and 
 a Protestant Dean all in one ; but some charitable 
 friend robbed that holy confraternity of its antici- 
 pated triumph by passing in some poison to the 
 unfortunate De Dominis, who learnt too late that 
 Rome never changes, "che il Lupo perde il pelo, il 
 vizio no" and that according to Papal ethics to keep 
 faith with heretics is at best a grievous sin. 
 
 Spalato, in common with the rest of Dalmatia, 
 has given birth to many able men, among which 
 they claim even St. Jerome, the most learned of 
 the ancient fathers and the talented author of the 
 noblest translation of the Bible ; but I fear on 
 insufficient grounds, as all the authorities 1 have 
 looked into seem to make him a Pannonian and 
 not an Illyrian ; Carrara, however, claims him as
 
 104 Salona, 
 
 a compatriot in his " Uomini Illustri di Spalato." 
 Within a few miles of Spalato are the ruins of 
 Salona, I had not time to visit them. There is not 
 comparatively very much of interest to be seen 
 above ground, but I believe that methodically- 
 conducted diggings have yielded some valuable 
 results. It was the Roman capital of Dalmatia and 
 was destroyed by the Avars in 640, when the 
 inhabitants who escaped from the slaughter took, 
 refuge in Spalato and there founded the new city, 
 by grouping themselves around and under the 
 protection of the Palace of Diocletian. 
 
 The majority of the inhabitants of Spalato are 
 Roman Catholics, with an admixture of Greeks and 
 a good number of Jews, who wear the turban and 
 the Oriental costume, and are principally descended 
 from those who were expelled from Spain in 1493. 
 For many centuries they were subjected to the same 
 indignities as in other Christian countries, and com- 
 pelled to inhabit the Ghetto where they used to be 
 locked up at night; but such practices have long 
 been abolished in Dalmatia, and the Jews of Spalato 
 have enjoyed for many years the same privileges as 
 the other citizens of that place.
 
 The Morlacchi. 105 
 
 My stay at Spalato was much too short for 
 enjoyment ; I saw indeed most that was to be seen 
 there, but it was not much more than a glance, 
 and I longed to be sketching amongst those pic- 
 turesque nooks. 
 
 Having several times mentioned the Morlacchi, 
 it will, I think, be interesting to my readers to 
 know something about them. Again I have to 
 regret that I was unable to visit them in their 
 villages, and that the only information I can give 
 of them is, that they are inhabitants of the wild 
 mountainous district lying to the East of Dalmatia. 
 They are a fine race of men, though much smaller 
 and inferior to the Montenegrin ; their women, on 
 the contrary, are often very beautiful, and they 
 have many strange customs in their dealings with 
 foreigners which would make an excursion into 
 the fastnesses of their mountains of more than 
 ordinary interest. 
 
 With the Lowland Dalmatians and the in- 
 habitants of the towns on the coast, the name of 
 Morlacchi is always associated with plunder and 
 cattle-lifting, just as in Scotland a hundred years 
 ago every Highlander, in the eyes of a Lowlander,
 
 1 00 The Morlacrhi. 
 
 was a cateran and a robber; but I heard from 
 people that had been among them, that they are 
 very hospitable, and that their countrv can be 
 freely traversed in any direction without the 
 smallest danger. They are Catholics and apparently 
 of the same stock, as the Montenegrins, though these 
 latter are schismatic Greeks.
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 ISLAND OF LISSA— NAVAL BATTLES— A BRIDAL PARTY TAKEN ON 
 BOARD— LESINA— FORTRESS OF SAN NICOLO— THE LOGGIE— 
 FORT SPAGNUOLO— ISLAND OF CURZOLA— LA CHROMA— BEAU- 
 TIFUL SCENE — RICHARD CCEUR DE LION — CATHEDRAL OF 
 RAGUSA— EARTHQUAKE OF 1667— TERRIBLE CONFLAGRATION 
 — PRINCE MAXIMILIAN. 
 
 ARLY in the afternoon we left Spalato, 
 and steaming away from the coast we 
 stood out to sea, making for Lissa, a 
 large island of the Adriatic, celebrated 
 in the days of the first Napoleon for the stout 
 sea fight in which, on the 13th of March 181 1, 
 Captain Hoste, (afterwards Sir William Hoste), 
 with four ships mounting 156 guns, utterly defeated 
 the French fleet of twenty-seven sail, mounting 284,
 
 108 Lissa. 
 
 having on board 500 troops. In 1808 wc occupied 
 Lissa, and having estabhshcd free trade and other 
 institutions, the ishmd improved so much under our 
 administration tliat in less than three years trom 
 the time we occupied it the popuhition had risen 
 to 1 2,000 inhabitants (at present it has scarcely 
 5000). 
 
 The l<'rench were naturally sorely tried by the 
 advantageous position we occupied in front ot their 
 coast, and the very good use we made of our 
 opportunities ot pushing our commerce in every 
 direction. They determined therefore on expelling 
 us from Lissa and the Adriatic, as from the small- 
 ness of our armament there they had no doubt as 
 to their success. Swiftly and silently they fitted out 
 an expedition at Ancona, which under the command . 
 of the brave Captain Dubourdieu arrived at Lissa 
 on the 13th March, 181 1. It consisted of four 
 44 gun frigates, ten 32 gun corvettes, one 16 gun 
 brig, a schooner, ten gun-boats, and a xebeque, in 
 all 284 guns. 
 
 The British Squadron consisted of only four 
 ships, the ' Amphion,' ' Active,' ' Cerberus,' and 
 ' Volage,' mounting but 156 guns all told, but it
 
 Lesina. 109 
 
 was commanded and manned by British seamen! 
 the result could not be doubted, and although 
 Dubourdieu fought like a gallant sailor as he was, 
 the victory remained with us. Our losses were 
 severe, and in a quiet retired little nook, on the 
 left hand as one enters the land-locked harbour of 
 Lissa, are buried those who fell in that engage- 
 ment; while on the right hand side is another 
 burial place, where under a handsome sepulchral 
 monument lie the remains of those Austrians who 
 fell in the latest naval engagement at Lissa when a 
 few years ago the Italian Navy, the pet toy, an 
 expensive one by the by, of King Victor Emmanuel, 
 was all but annihilated by the Austrians under 
 Admiral TegethofF. 
 
 At Lissa we remained a very short time, so 
 short that I had not even time to go ashore, though 
 I should have very much liked to visit the burial 
 place of those brave English sailors who fell in the 
 naval action of 1811. The business of the 
 steamer, which seemed principally to consist in 
 shipping a bridal party, was soon concluded, and 
 after a very short stay we were again under full 
 steam for Lesina, another island of the same
 
 110 A Bridal Party. 
 
 archipelago, but much smaller and closer in to the 
 Dalmatian coast. 
 
 The bridal party we had taken on board consisted 
 of the bride and bridegroom, both very plain and 
 very much, even tawdrily over-dressed in Parisian 
 costume, and with remarkably dirty hands and 
 otherwise unwashed appearance. A bishop with 
 a couple of priests in attendance on his reverence, 
 and half-a-dozen relations and friends of the newly- 
 married couple, who seemed principally to study 
 not to take any notice of each other but went 
 about making themselves generally agree- 
 able. 
 
 The groom most kindly insisted on my smok- 
 ing his cigars (and villainously bad they were, 
 but had I declined them he would have been 
 awfully offended) and drinking his maraschino, 
 which fortunately was as good as his cigars were 
 bad, whilst the bride, luckily for me, persistently 
 avoided me, probably from fear of heretical con- 
 tamination, and exclusively devoted her attentions 
 to the Bishop and his priests. 
 
 After a few hours steaming through the smoothest 
 and bluest of seas, in full view of the grand moun-
 
 Etymology of Lesina. Ill 
 
 tains of Dalmatia, in due time we arrived at 
 Lesina a little before sunset. This island is said 
 to derive its name from being somewhat shaped 
 like an awl, in Italian /esina. It is just a thin strip 
 of land forty-two miles long, blunt at one end 
 (which represents the handle) and sharp at the 
 other. I doubt, however, the correctness of its 
 etymology, and am inclined to think that its 
 present name is more probably derived from its 
 ancient one of " Pharos Insula," often reduced by 
 elision into simply " Insula ;" now the anagram 
 of " Insula " is " Lusina," a word much more in 
 harmony with the genius of the Italian language, 
 and from Lusina to Lesina is but a shade. I think 
 I am fortified in this etymology by the fact of 
 at least two other instances in the Adriatic 
 of this identical transposition of letters, and 
 the conversion of Insula to Lusina, in the names 
 of two islands near the Quarnero, named 
 respectively Lussin Grande and Lussin Piccolo, 
 which are evidently the anagram of Insula Grande 
 and Insula Piccola. 
 
 We arrived just in time to enjoy the effect of 
 the setting sun upon that rocky landscape and the
 
 112 The Loggie. 
 
 exquisitely pretty town at the foot of the moun- 
 tain, and sufficiently early to be able to take a 
 rapid sketch just as the sun was beginning to sink 
 behind the tower which rises to the west of the 
 town. The fort behind and above the town was 
 still in full sunlight, as was also the more distant 
 fortress of San Niccolo, brought forcibly into relief 
 by a bank of dark purple clouds which were massed 
 behind it. Down below, close to the water's 
 edge, lay the town bathed in a flood of amber light, 
 partly caused by the reflection of the golden sunset 
 beyond, and partly by the colouring of the town 
 itself, the houses of which are all painted with the 
 warmest tints. 
 
 In the middle of the town, close to the water's 
 edge, are the " Loggie " or Portico, an elegant 
 building, which in the olden times of Venetian 
 supremacy was used by the merchants as an ex- 
 change to transact business in, as well as a hall of 
 justice for the administration of the laws, and at 
 the back a room is still shown where criminals 
 and suspected persons underwent the question by 
 torture. 
 
 Immediately behind and above the Loggie rises
 
 Gurzola. 113 
 
 Fort Spagnuolo, built by Charles V, connected 
 with the town below by two long crenelated walls, 
 enclosing in front a considerable space planted thick 
 with colossal aloes {Agave Americana), which in 
 case of assault would, in olden times, have offered 
 a very considerable impediment to the advance of 
 troops. 
 
 The island of Lesina is barren, and its commerce 
 very insignificant ; it grows, however, an immense 
 quantity of rosemary, from which is distilled a 
 celebrated essential oil Oleum Anthos, and the Aqua 
 Regia, or rosemary water, which are both largely 
 exported. 
 
 It was dark when we left ; shaping our way for 
 Curzola where we arrived about midnight. My 
 friend, the Capuchin, who sat chatting with me 
 till we arrived there, regretted I could not 
 see it by daylight, as contrary to the other 
 islands, which are conspicuous for their barren- 
 ness, Curzola is well wooded, and is cele- 
 brated for the size and magnificence of its pine 
 trees. 
 
 We did not make any long delay here, and 
 were soon threading our course again between the
 
 114 Lachroma. 
 
 islands and the mainland in the direction of 
 Ragusa, but I know nothing about them. The 
 Monk wished me good-night and went to his 
 cabin, when again I took my usual place on deck, 
 and was soon as comfortably asleep on that oaken 
 plank as if I had been in the most luxurious bed 
 in England. 
 
 I was awakened from my night's sleep by my 
 friend the Capuchin monk, who had been my 
 travelling companion all the way from Trieste. 
 
 " Get up, my lazy friend," said he, touching me 
 with his foot. " We shall soon be entering 
 the port of Gravosa ; and there," stretching, out his 
 arm towards the Dalmatian coast, " is the island of 
 Lachroma, once the property of the unfortunate 
 Emperor Maximilian of Mexico, and in ancient times 
 a harbour of refuge to your great King Richard, 
 Coeur-de-Lion." 
 
 Hard though my bed had been, for nothing but 
 my doubled up old rug had interposed between 
 myself and the deck, I had slept profoundly, "^ la 
 belle etoile" and far more comfortably than if I had 
 condescended to take my place in the dirty and 
 stuffy camerino down below, where all the other
 
 Richard Coeur-de-Lion. 115 
 
 passengers, including my friend the Capuchin 
 and his lay-brother, fearing bad smells, fleas, and 
 other small game much less than the delicious 
 night-air of the balmy Adriatic, had carefully stowed 
 themselves away the previous night. 1 was up in 
 an instant, and I shall not easily forget the sight 
 that greeted my eyes from the deck of the little 
 ' San Carlo.' 
 
 We were about three miles from the shore ; the 
 sun, though high above the horizon, had not yet 
 acquired sufficient force to destroy the freshness of 
 the morning breeze which delicately rippled the 
 surface of the sea, making it in the sunshine like 
 a sheet of frosted gold, while in the shade it was 
 like liquid sapphire. On my left rose the wild, 
 rocky cliffs of Dalmatia, rendered still more deso- 
 late-looking by the almost total absence of vegeta- 
 tion; while in front and on my right, stretching 
 away to the extreme verge of the horizon, were 
 the sparkling waters of the Adriatic, thickly 
 studded with countless islets, to the nearest of 
 . which, Lachroma, the Monk had drawn my 
 attention. 
 
 " It is now many years," said the Capuchin, 
 
 I 2
 
 IIG Shijnvrech of King Richard. 
 
 "since your great crusading King found a refuge 
 in that island." 
 
 " I was not aware that King Richard was ship- 
 wrecked here," said I. " I knew that he met with 
 a terrific storm in this sea on his return from 
 Palestine, but I always imagined he had been 
 wrecked near the top of the Adriatic, on 
 the coast of Istria, in the neighbourhood of 
 Aquileia." 
 
 " Yes," replied the Monk, " it is not generally 
 known that it was on the rocks of Lachroma that 
 Coeur-de-Lion was cast away ; and it is strange how 
 this error should have crept into history and held 
 its ground and place in every standard work, 
 including your own invaluable Cyclopaedias. But 
 we have ample proofs of the truth of what I am 
 telling you, and documentary evidence to establish 
 the accuracy of my assertion ; for your King, in 
 gratitude to Divine Providence for delivering him 
 from shipwreck, vowed to build a church in 
 honour of the Blessed Virgin, on whatever land 
 he should first set foot, and having safely landed 
 at Lachroma, he proceeded to make good his vow 
 by committing to the abbot and monks of a
 
 His Reception at Bagusa. 117 
 
 Benedictine monastery, which already existed on 
 the island, the task of building this church, to 
 defray the expenses of which the good King devoted 
 no less than 100,000 nummi argentei, which sum 
 he borrowed from his British lieges. But the 
 Rettore cf Ragusa (so the President of that ancient 
 Republic was styled), having heard of King 
 Richard's shipwreck opposite his city, went to visit 
 him in state, with all the magistrates and councillors 
 of the Republic, and invited him to Ragusa, where 
 he was received with every demonstration of 
 respect, and all the hospitality and attention due 
 to so distinguished a guest. 
 
 King Richard, pleased at the reception given 
 
 him by the Republicans, and charmed by the 
 
 attractive graces of the Ragusan ladies, rested there 
 
 for some time ; and then at the suggestion of these 
 
 fair ones and the urgent entreaties of the authorities, 
 
 who promised to obtain a dispensation for him from 
 
 the Pope, he altered the terms of his donation, and 
 
 founded in Ragusa itself the church to the Blessed 
 
 Virgin which he had originally vowed on the 
 
 island of Lachroma ; on the condition, however, that 
 
 the Benedictine Abbot of Lachroma, assisted by the
 
 118 Votive Church. 
 
 monks of his convent, should have the privilege 
 and the right to celebrate mass in this church in 
 Ragusa every year on the day of the feast of the 
 Purification. The gift of Richard Coeur-de-Lion 
 having been further increased by donations from the 
 inhabitants, this votive church grew into that 
 celebrated cathedral which for so many years held 
 the first rank among all the churches of Illyria.* 
 
 * The brave King Richard, having recruited himself at Ragusa, is 
 said, by some, to have gone to Aqulleia by sea, by others to have 
 continued his journey by land ; anyhow, it is pretty certain, that 
 having stopped to take some refreshment at a way-side inn in the 
 mountains of Dalmatia, or Styria, he incautiously handed a large 
 gold piece to the landlady to change, and her suspicions being roused 
 by this circumstance, she informed the authorities ; and the end was 
 that the King was seized by the treacherous Leopold of Austria, and 
 imprisoned, as everyone knows. There is a tradition, however, which 
 is not so well known, that shortly after his treacherous conduct 
 to his brother-in-arms, Leopold of Austria, when out hunting, met 
 with a severe injury to his right leg — surgery was not then what 
 it is now — the limb mortified, and it was agreed on all hands 
 that nothing could save the Prince's life but amputation. But who 
 was to do it ? No one would venture — when Leopold himself pro- 
 posed that a sharp hatchet should be laid across his limb, and that, 
 at his word of command, it should be struck with a ponderous mallet, 
 when it was expected that the limb would be severed. The operation 
 succeeded so far as the cutting went, but the bystanders were unable
 
 Calamitous Earthquahe. 119 
 
 At last, however, came one fatal morning, the 6th 
 of April, 1667, when Ragusa was all but annihilated 
 by an earthquake. In a few moments all the 
 principal edifices in the town were laid low, includmg 
 the Cathedral of King Richard, and upwards of six 
 thousand inhabitants, more than one-fifth of the 
 entire population were buried in the ruins. There 
 was not a family in the whole city which had not 
 one or more to mourn for. Several of my ancestors 
 perished, and among others a lineal ancestor of my 
 mother, Simone Ghetaldi, then Rettore of the 
 Republic ; he and several senators were assembled 
 in the Council Chamber, and about to receive the 
 visit of a Dutch Embassy (which had stopped at 
 Ragusa on its way to Constantinople, to which 
 court it was accredited) when they were all en- 
 gulphed ; not one escaped, and it is supposed that 
 at that spot the earth must have opened and closed 
 over them again. The Archbishop barely escaped 
 with his life by jumping out of a window as the 
 floors of his palace were giving way beneath him, 
 . and more than nine-tenths of the clergy perished. 
 
 to staunch the blood, and the Prince bled to death-a fitting retribu. 
 tion for his treachery.
 
 120 Record of the Catastrophe. 
 
 We preserve in our family a manuscript which 
 gives an accurate account of this terrible catas- 
 trophe ; as a youngster, I was often made to copy 
 it out, and I therefore know it almost off by 
 heart. It tells how the morning of the 6th of 
 April, 1667, broke calm and bright, and that the 
 atmosphere was still and serene, without anything 
 to indicate the approaching danger, when suddenly, 
 without any premonitory sound, about two hours 
 after sunrise, while most of the inhabitants were 
 still in their houses, or in the churches hearing 
 early mass, the earth shook so violently that in a 
 few minutes the whole town was in ruins, with the 
 exception of the fortress, and a few other buildings, 
 the walls of which were enormously thick. In 
 addition to the destruction caused by falling houses, 
 large rocks came toppling down, detached from the 
 mountain, which, as you see, apparently overhangs 
 the city. This added greatly to the terror and 
 devastation. So far as we know there was but 
 G/ie shock, and it lasted only a few seconds ; but no 
 where and at no time was so much damage done thus 
 instantaneously. 
 
 " Many harrowing scenes were recounted, but
 
 Terrihle Fire. 121 
 
 perhaps the most teriible of all was that of a school 
 of boys which was swallowed up beneath the ruins. 
 All the unfortunate lads perished, most of them 
 by a miserable lingering death, and for days their 
 moans and cries for help and water could be heard 
 by their distracted friends, without the possibility 
 of giving them any relief. One would have 
 thought this a sufficient visitation for poor Ragusa, 
 but calamities never come singly. A fire broke out 
 on the same day, and towards evening a strong 
 wind arose and fanned the flames, thus increasing 
 the conflagration beyond the power of control. 
 Night came on, and the whole side of the mountains 
 was illuminated by the flames of the burning city. 
 Then the wild mountaineers, the Morlacchi, came 
 down in swarms to pilfer and snatch whatever they 
 could from the universal wreck. The scenes then 
 enacted defied all powers of description. The fires 
 were burning with exceptional brightness and fury, 
 in consequence of the conflagration having reached 
 the stores of oil, tallow and tar accumulated in 
 the Arsenal and elsewhere. Groups of Morlacchi, 
 undeterred by the crumbling walls and the scorching 
 rafters, could be seen flitting about among ruins
 
 122 Tragic Episode. 
 
 regardless of the danger ! Occasionally some such 
 group having ventured too far, would disappear 
 with a fearful scream into some yawning gulf ; 
 while in another spot two parties of the same 
 plunderers might be seen in deadly conflict, fighting 
 with their long straight knives over their unlawful 
 booty. It was a fearful night. 
 
 " But all this is ancient history ; there is another 
 tragic episode connected with Lachroma. Another 
 calamity is brought to our minds when we look 
 upon its shores. Poor Prince Maximilian ! — alas ! 
 alas ! he was a good and kind man, — and that noble 
 unfortunate Princess Charlotte ! I had the honour 
 of being in their company more than once, both in 
 Europe and Mexico ; they were so good, so affable, 
 so happy, till in an evil hour they allowed 
 themselves to be led away by ambition. The Prince 
 seemed all along to have had a presentiment of evil. 
 I was told by one who was present, that 
 nothing could be more melancholy than his 
 departure from Miramar, and the leave-taking 
 when he was waited on by a deputation from Trieste 
 was the most painful scene he ever witnessed. The 
 Prince was completely overcome, and fairly broke
 
 O'T 
 
 The Emferor Maximilian. 1 
 
 down on this occasion. After his assassination 
 the island was sold, and now I hear it is for sale 
 again." 
 
 The good old Monk was silent for a few minutes, 
 and then gently putting his hand on my shoulder, 
 he said, 
 
 "You are English, non e vero? You are not 
 American.? I would not say a hurtful word to 
 mortal, but I cannot help thinking that the Presi- 
 dent of the United States was nearly as much to 
 blame as the Mexican savage for the murder of 
 Maximilian ; one word from the United States' 
 President would have saved the Emperor's 
 life." 
 
 "But what about the French Emperor.?" I 
 asked; "he who got the poor Prince into the 
 scrape, and then left him to get out of it as best 
 he could.?" ■ 
 
 " Ah ; true — true," repeated the Monk. " e queW 
 altro birbaccione di Bazaine ! Ah! Providence will 
 overtake them all. But look, see how beautiful 
 Ragusa is, how picturesque ! Although I am only 
 a poor Capuchin monk, I feel proud of my native 
 city — che mi son Raguseo .'" he exclaimed, breaking
 
 124 Patriotism of a Monlc. 
 
 out into his native Venetian dialect. " Though 
 most of my Ufe has been spent far away in foreign 
 missions, I still cling with fondness to my native 
 shores, and feel thankful, most thankful," he 
 repeated, bending his head, " that it has pleased His 
 Holiness and our General to order me back here 
 again at last."
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 THE PADKE ANSELMO-HIS LIFE AND LABOURS AMONG THE 
 AMERICAN INDIANS-THE PIONEERS OF CIVILIZATION-AME- 
 RICAN INDIANS AND NEGROES— PADRE ANSELMO ON PRO- 
 TESTANT AND CATHOLIC MISSIONS— NATIVE CHRISTIANS IN 
 INDIA— POPE PIUS IX. ONCE A MISSIONARY— CARDINAL P . 
 
 —PORT OF GRAVOSA— RAGUSA. 
 
 FELT an unusual degree of regret, 
 thinking I should so soon lose the 
 company of Padre Anselmo ; we had 
 come all the way together from Trieste, 
 and had spent many pleasant hours in genial conver- 
 sation, flavoured from time to time with spicy, 
 sharp, but good-humoured polemics, during which 
 the Padre never lost his temper, and I had not 
 always the best of the argument. 
 
 He was a very remarkable man, of an ancient
 
 126 Padre Anselmo. 
 
 noble Ragusan family, evidently pious, yet wonder- 
 fully large-minded. 1 shall always remember with 
 pleasure the conversations we had together on the 
 deck of the ' San Carlo,' by the bright Italian moon- 
 light, on those deep, smooth waters of the Adriatic 
 that sparkled with phosphorescence at every stroke of 
 the paddle-wheel. He was aware I was a Protestant, 
 and though he had been a missionary for many 
 years he knew how to avoid polemics whenever 
 it was fit. He had been in South America and 
 in North America ; in the plains of the Amazon 
 and the Orinoco, and among the Sierras of 
 Mexico. 
 
 I asked him about his success among the Indians, 
 and after reflecting for a little he gave me a most, 
 interesting account of his life's labours among 
 them. I carefully noted down each night in my 
 diary, after we had parted, the principal headings 
 of his narrative, and some day I may give to the 
 public an account of the labours, trials, and suffer- 
 ings of this good and conscientious monk. 
 
 In answer to my question as to the amount of 
 success he had obtained during his long intercourse 
 with American Indians, he said,
 
 American Indians. 127 
 
 "There is a most extraordinary difference in 
 intelligence between the different tribes, even among 
 those living close together ; some are wonderfully 
 more intelligent than others, and, strange to say, 
 I found them better the farther they were removed 
 from the influence of civilization. A great deal 
 might be made of them were it not for the evil 
 influence of the traders who come among them — 
 the most pernicious of whom I invariably found 
 were those coming from the United States. These 
 traders, pioneers of civilization — as they called 
 themselves — were almost invariably men without 
 any religion or principle ; awful blasphemers, their 
 oaths were too terrific ! They generally consisted 
 of the veriest scum and offscourings of commercial 
 cities ; they showed the poor savages the very worst 
 examples, for fair trading was unknown to them, 
 and lying, overreaching, and brow-beating were 
 their chief characteristics, while of drunkenness and 
 unblushing debauchery they were terrible examples. 
 I was once asked by a chief why we came so 
 far to teach them, and left our own people un- 
 taught." 
 
 Padre Anselmo also told me that some of the
 
 128 Conversion of Negroes. 
 
 natives had some idea of the Divinity, and 
 were very teachable, not like the Negroes of 
 the West Coast of Africa among whom he had 
 laboured a short time. He contrasted the capa- 
 bilities of both races, and shaking his head, 
 added, 
 
 " I fear it will take hundreds of centuries of inces- 
 sant teaching, and that more by example than by 
 word of mouth, before any good will come from 
 missions among the Negroes; they seem utterly 
 incapable of understanding any of the attributes of 
 God. They look upon him invariably as one to 
 be feared, and propitiated by gifts and sacrifices, 
 so that he may be induced, if possible, to do them 
 no harm." 
 
 A chief came to him one night by stealth, " but 
 not like Nicodemus," as the worthy Monk added; 
 he brought various presents to the mission, some 
 of considerable value, consisting of native rings of 
 twisted gold. He whispered under his breath to 
 the Monk, 
 
 " You white man know everything, and you say 
 your God rules everything. Tell me where I can 
 find him, that I may kill him ! he is a bad god —
 
 Demoniac Negro Gliief. 129 
 
 he has killed my favourite wife, and now I must 
 kill him !" 
 
 The Negro was foaming at the mouth from 
 impotent rage, and his fearful language, together 
 with the rolling of his eyes and the contortions 
 of his body, impressed the Monk at first with the 
 idea that he was an impersonation of the Evil One. 
 Yet this chief had till then been the most promising 
 of all those natives on whom he had been wasting 
 his time, his patience, and his doctrine. In vain 
 the Missionary tried to reason with the demoniac 
 chief; his words made no impression, and the 
 savage, failing to discover from the Monk the where- 
 abouts of the white man's God, returned to his 
 village, where he burned his own national fetish, 
 and then cut off the heads of half-a-dozen 
 wretches, having first charged them with messages 
 to be delivered to his wife in dead-man's- 
 land! 
 
 One evening Padre Anselmo and I, after 
 making ourselves snug on a pile of sacks near 
 the binnacle, were talking about missionary 
 work, when he spoke to me about our Pro- 
 
 K
 
 130 Protestant and CatJioUc Missions. 
 
 testant missions, and asked me many questions 
 concerning them. 
 
 " You work your missions differently from the 
 way we do ours ; you pay your missionaries well, 
 and even allow them, I have been told, to trade 
 at times, and to buy and sell and follow different 
 callings. I have also heard that you send mis- 
 sionaries abroad without any particular regard to 
 their capabilities, for instance as to their knowledge 
 of the language of the country they are sent to. 
 Now all our missionaries are strictly prepared 
 for the country where they are intended to labour, 
 and are not sent out until they have acquired 
 a good knowledge of the language of that country. 
 How do you find your system to work? Have 
 you had much success in the East Indies during 
 the hundred years you have had the opportunity of 
 working in them.^" 
 
 I imagined I could detect something of a smile 
 playing about the corners of his mouth as he m.ade 
 these remarks, and just as I was about to reply, 
 a scene came to my mind of which I had read or 
 heard an account somewhere, of an English 
 missionary addressing an Arab audience in Tangier
 
 Anecdote of a Missionary. 131 
 
 through the medium of a Gibraltar Jew, for the 
 missionary was utterly innocent of any language 
 but his own London English, and my innate 
 appreciation of the ridiculous so overcame my 
 sense of what was proper and decorous that I 
 laughed myself nearly into fits.* However, 
 
 * The story, as well as I remember it, was as follows :— A probably 
 well-meaning but decidedly weak-minded Protestant, bent on mis- 
 sionary work, arrived one day at Tangier. He had never been in 
 the East, and did not know a word of Arabic. He was determined, 
 however, to improve the opportunity by letting in a ray of Gospel 
 truth into the minds of the benighted Mussulmans. That he did not 
 know a word of their native language was no obstacle to this energetic 
 missionary, he would employ an interpreter. Having found one in 
 the person of a ' Gibraltar Jew,' he explained to him what he wanted; 
 the bargain was soon struck, and the Jew undertook, for a considera- 
 tion, to interpret for him on the next market day. He, however, 
 advised the missionary to have a certain quantity of tobacco and coffee 
 ready to treat the assembled hearers, as it was always customary to 
 do so in that country whenever an important meeting was held— to 
 which the missionary at once consented. The fact of the danger he 
 would be running into himself, dragging his interpreter after him, 
 from telling the most bigoted perhaps of all Mussulmans, that their 
 religion was false, and their Prophet an emissary of the Evil One, 
 never once entered into his head ; but, fortunately for them both, the 
 Jew had more brain than his employer. Market-day came, and the 
 
 K 2
 
 132 Mlssionari) Worl:. 
 
 having recovered my equanimity, I replied, " I 
 did not know very much about the matter ; but 
 I had always heard that, generally speaking, the 
 native Christians were the greatest blackguards 
 in India, the least objectionable being certainly 
 the Goanese Catholics," at which the good old monk 
 seemed highly pleased. 
 
 His ideas of missionary work were peculiar and 
 interesting. " \Vc should always," he said " treat 
 
 Jew had bespoke, in a couple of cafes, a large supply of coffee. The 
 town and country people having been informed that an " EfTcndi 
 Engleez" would make a great speech to them, they collected in large 
 luimbers in the market-place, where they squatted duwrt rr)und a 
 hogshead, on which the missionar)' was mounted. He at once began 
 in the usual terms — his religion was the only true one, and all those 
 who differed from him went straight down head foremost into Gehenna, 
 which the wise Jew translated thus : " The EfFendi has come all the 
 way from England to get cured ; he is mad, but quite harmless, and 
 if you only have patience, you will get plenty of coffet." And so the 
 missionary went on ringing the changes on his subject, whilst the 
 wiser Jew rang the changes on his ; which, however, always ended in 
 the stereotyped, " and you'll get plenty of coffee." The report, pro- 
 bably made to head-quarters by that enterprising missionary, would 
 be interesting to read, especially by the light thrown upon it by the 
 interpreter ; and how many more missionary efforts might prove 
 equally distressing could we but have together with the sermon the 
 running commentar)- of a non-interested looker-on.
 
 Pope Plus IX 133 
 
 savages and the utterly uneducated, whether at 
 home or abroad, who are scarcely better than 
 savages, like little children, like very little chUaren 
 in intelligence, yet endowed with the passions and 
 vices of grown up men. One should therefore, 
 if possible, never try to teach them things beyond 
 their understanding, but make their practical 
 civilization proceed pari passu with their religious 
 training-instilling morality before preaching 
 doctrine and dogma, both teachings being backed 
 up by unexceptionable example. " These are not 
 my own ideas," added Padre Anselmo, "they arc 
 the precepts of the wonderful man who preceded 
 me in the Amazon Mission, the present Pontiflr, 
 His Holiness Pope Pius IX., whose equal will never 
 again occupy the chair of St. Peter." 
 
 "What! was the Pope ever a missionary?" I 
 asked with astonishment. I knew he had been a 
 soldier, and had been even assured that in his early 
 days he was initiated a Freemason in a Lodge 
 in Sicily ; there was nothing very extraordinary 
 ,n his having been a missionary, but I had never 
 heard of it before, and was therefore taken by 
 surprise.
 
 134 TJie Pontifical Chair. 
 
 " Indeed he was," replied Padre Anselmo, 
 " and a very zealous and hard-working mission- 
 ary, whose memory is reverenced to this day, 
 among many a wild tribe on the banks of the 
 Amazon." 
 
 Then we began to talk politics, that is to say I 
 talked, the Monk only listened, till musingly I said, 
 " I wonder who will succeed him in the Chair of 
 St. Peter?" 
 
 " Whoever he may be," replied the Monk, 
 " he will have a difficult task coming after such 
 a man." 
 
 " Have you been lately at Rome ?" said I. 
 
 " I was there two months age," he replied. 
 
 " What then do you think of Cardinal P ? 
 
 do you know him ?" 
 
 The Monk fixed his eyes on me for a moment, 
 as if he would have read my most inmost thoughts, 
 and then speaking very slowly, said : 
 
 "That Sicilian Monk has long been aiming at 
 the Tiara ; he lives within himself, has no confi- 
 dant, no intimate friend, has no talents, only plenty 
 of doggedness, vorrebbe Papeggiare^ but no, 
 never will he occupy the Pontifical chair, never !"
 
 Port of Gravosa. 135 
 
 and the Monk, for a minute looked me full in the 
 face. 
 
 We were now getting quite close to the town, 
 which is built on the narrow strip of land that 
 lies between the Adriatic and the Dalmatian 
 mountains, that here rise up almost perpen- 
 dicularly behind it. The morning mists were 
 clearing off, and the hazy outlines of the towers 
 and ramparts, the cupolas and steeples, together 
 with the bright colouring of the sails of the 
 felucas and trabaccoli gliding out of the harbour, 
 threading their way through the many islands 
 scattered outside it, formed a picture that might be 
 realized by a painter but of which I will not 
 attempt the description. 
 
 We were now fairly in the port of Gravosa, and 
 the steamer was surrounded by native boats conveying 
 eager candidates for the privilege of carrying our- 
 selves and luggage to the shore. The real port is 
 at Ragusa itself, sheltered and protected by the 
 ancient bastions and towers of the city, but, though 
 amply deep enough for its ancient galleys, and for 
 those argosies (so named after this very city of 
 Ragusa) which in ancient times monopolized with
 
 136 Boad to Uagusa. 
 
 Venice the commerce of the world, It is not now 
 large enough or deep enough to accommodate our 
 modern practical, though inelegant fire-ships. It 
 has consequently been abandoned for the port of 
 Gravosa, which is not only large, safe, and 
 commodious, but also exquisitely beautiful, though 
 inconveniently distant, being nearly a mile from 
 the city. An excellent road, however, originally 
 made by the French and subsequently improved by 
 the Austrians, communicates between the two 
 places, and numerous small carriages drawn by 
 one or two horses are constantly in readiness to 
 convey for a trifle those who do not wish 'to walk 
 to Ragusa. 
 
 The two monks and I were soon on shore, 
 and there I reluctantly parted with them ; they, 
 went on foot towards their convent, while I 
 took a small one-horse carriage and started off to 
 the city. 
 
 Away we went at full gallop skirting the 
 harbour, till the rising ground at the end of the 
 little valley compelled our lively little horse to a 
 slower rate of progression. We soon however 
 topped the hill, when we again came in view of
 
 Bagusa. 137 
 
 the sea on our right hand, while on our left were 
 numbers of villas peeping out through masses of 
 oleanders and gigantic aloes, whose flower stems, 
 like colossal candelabra, fifteen to twenty feet 
 in height, gave a peculiarly exotic character to the 
 scene. Many of these villas were in ruins, and 
 others more or less damaged, still bearing evidence 
 of the French occupation at the beginning of this 
 century, and of their expulsion by the Russian and 
 Montenegrin troops. 
 
 Ragusa was now fairly again in sight, and a noble 
 city it is, and how picturesque ! so far as its great- 
 ness is concerned, Ragusa is now but the shadow 
 of what it was in bygone days. Its political impor- 
 tance has faded away — its commercial supremacy is 
 a thing of the past ; but its local beauty, its domes, 
 its campaniles, its lofty cut-stone palaces, its 
 churches and public buildings, its exquisitely clean 
 streets, its balmy air, its azure sea and its pleasant 
 society — all these are things real and of the present. 
 But Ragusa is not a place to be described, it must 
 be seen and studied to be appreciated. See it from 
 the land, or from the sea — wander through its 
 narrow, quaint, artistic streets, ramble round its
 
 138 The Rival of Venice. 
 
 walls and ramparts, and you will find it from every 
 point of view a most remarkable place. 
 
 This grand old city, into which neither horse 
 nor carriage is ever allowed to enter, was founded 
 about the beginning of the seventh century, not 
 very long after the foundation of Venice. Both 
 cities were Republics, rivals in commerce and 
 in the arts, and their people were incessantly at 
 war with one another. But though Venice, by 
 degrees, was able to subdue and include in her grasp 
 almost the entire Eastern coast of the Adriatic, she 
 never succeeded, either by cajolery or brute force, 
 in conquering the Ragusans, who maintained their 
 freedom till 1806; when, after existing as an inde- 
 pendent State for upwards of a thousand years, 
 during which time it had remained as an advanced 
 post of European civilization on the borders of 
 wild Bosnia and fierce Albania, it fell with Venice, 
 Genoa, and the other free communities of Europe 
 which Napoleon 1. wiped off the map of the 
 world. 
 
 All down the coast of the Adriatic may be seen 
 the winged Lion of St. Mark, wherever the en- 
 croaching ambition of the Venetians enabled them
 
 Favourite Promenade. 139 
 
 to establish themselves ; but in Ragusa you will 
 seek that grim Venetian effigy in vain. Ragusa 
 never was conquered by her great rival ! 
 
 The carrettella came spinning, at the rate of a 
 hunt, down the hill, at the bottom of which is the 
 entrance to Ragusa, and turning sharp round at 
 a speed that threatened to upset us bag and bag- 
 gage into the middle of the road, pulled up suddenly 
 on the right, where a very primitive hotel offers 
 the only prospect of refreshment to the chance tra- 
 veller in those parts ; though, for such as intend 
 remaining some little time, good accommodation 
 can be obtained within the city. The hotel is most 
 picturesquely situated on the very edge of the sea, 
 opposite to the fortifications " di mare^" and has in 
 front a considerable plantation of beautiful Pao- 
 lonias, then in full blossom ; on the opposite side 
 is the cafe, where of a Summer's evening congre- 
 gate the rank and fashion of Ragusa to enjoy their 
 ices and lemonade, and listen to the excellent band 
 of the Austrian regiment quartered there, and what- 
 ever gossip, scandalous or otherwise, that may be 
 buzzing about. And very enjoyable it must be ! 
 fine climate, pleasant society, lovely scenery, easy
 
 140 
 
 Attractions of Ragnsa. 
 
 access to the rest of Europe, either East or West, 
 and cheap living — what more could be desired ? 
 I would not ask for more.
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 ATTRACTIONS OF DALMATIA — INTERESTING EXCURSION — ISLAND 
 OF LACHROMA — CLIMATE — A. A. PATON, ESQ., FORMERLY 
 CONSUL-GENERAL AT RAGUSA — AN ITALIAN DINNER — EPI- 
 DAURUS — THE CANAL OP CATTARO— TERRITORY OP RAGUSA — 
 TOWER OP PERASTO AND FORT OF SANTA CROCE — STRANGELY 
 BUILT CHURCH — A PALAZZO — SAN GIORGIO AND LA MADONNA 
 — PICTURE ATTRIBUTED TO ST. LUKE. 
 
 ^^^^T has always been a source of much 
 ^'1 astonishment to me, seeing the faciHty 
 with which these parts can be reached 
 from Trieste, that so few of the 
 ubiquitous English — indeed, 1 might say none of 
 them, — ever visit them, or any of the other many 
 beautiful and interesting localities which crowd the 
 Eastern shores of the Adriatic. I really believe
 
 142 Unrivalled Excursion. 
 
 those countries are not visited because they are 
 in a certain sense unknown. I trust, however, that 
 some of mv readers who may perchance be tired 
 of those hackneyed tours which, year after year, 
 are undertaken by the travelling multitudes, will 
 try a venture some day in Dalmatia. 
 
 Starting from Trieste in one of the many coasting 
 steamers which trade to Corfu, stopping at every 
 place on the Eastern shores of the Adriatic from 
 Capo d'Istria downwards, and making excursions 
 from each into the interior, anyone fond of every- 
 thing beautiful and picturesque, whether in nature 
 or in art, would have the most delightful trip 
 imaginable; and if getting out at Cattaro he will 
 scale those wonderful mountains which seem ever 
 on the point of toppling over on that devoted city, 
 and penetrate into Montenegro, coming back to the 
 Adriatic by the Lake of Scutari (or Skodra as it 
 oughi to be called) in Northern Albania, he will 
 have made an excursion in the heart of Europe, 
 within seven days from London, and in the short 
 space of five weeks, which for beauty of country, 
 wildness of scenery, novelty of life, and magnifi- 
 cence of native costumes cannot be equalled from
 
 Island of Lachroma. 143 
 
 Spain to the Caucasus, or from Norway to the 
 Lebanon ! 
 
 Having made my adieux to Mr. Paton, our Consul 
 at Ragusa, to whom as well as to Persich EfFendi, 
 the Ottoman Consul, I was largely indebted for 
 much kind advice, as well as for a personal intro- 
 duction to Mr. Yonin, Russian Consul at Ragusa, 
 who subsequently at Cattaro and at Cettigne proved 
 a kind friend and most valuable and charming 
 companion, I returned on board and was soon 
 steering south again. We steamed quite close 
 inland, and had an excellent view of the ancient 
 fortifications of Ragusa and its old harbour, 
 only frequented at present by the felucas and 
 trabaccoli which carry on the coasting trade of the 
 country. 
 
 We also passed close to the island of Lachroma. 
 The Russian Consul, Mr. Yonin, told me it was 
 for sale and would probably go cheap. 1 can't 
 conceive a spot on earth where a man tired of the 
 bustle of life and the feverish excitement and tur- 
 moil of cities could more delightfully spend the 
 remainder of his days. There is a fairly good 
 house on the island, which is itself beautifully
 
 144 Climate. 
 
 wooded and laid-out. It is sufficiently near to 
 Ragusa to enable one to obtain everything one 
 could require from that city, it is right in the 
 gangway of all the steamers going up and down 
 the Adriatic, within five days of London, and 
 with such a number of communications with the 
 outer world that it would be seclusion only as long 
 as one wished it to be so. 
 
 As to the climate, none more beautiful could 
 be desired — sufficiently warm to grow figs, grapes, 
 and oranges, yet daily tempered in Summer by 
 the delicious sea-breeze of the Adriatic, which 
 prevents the heat from ever being oppressive, while 
 of Winter there is barely the name — the thermo- 
 meter seldom going down to frost. 
 
 The sea teems with fish of the most delicious 
 kinds, some of which are totally unknown among 
 us ; the dentale coronato, for instance, the true 
 sardine, and the rosy mullet, the woodcock of the 
 sea, which here grows to an immense size — while 
 from the mainland one can always obtain at 
 wonderfully low prices abundance of small moun- 
 tain mutton, poultry, and game. 
 
 I never was in any place that took my fancy like
 
 Italian Dinner. 145 
 
 Ragusa and Lachroma — so lovely, so picturesque, 
 so secluded, and yet so accessible ! 
 
 Since my return to England I have heard with 
 deep regret of the loss we have sustained by the 
 death of A. A. Paton, Esq., our Consul-General at 
 Ragusa. The country has to regret in him an able 
 and industrious servant, while literature has to 
 mourn for one of its most gifted votaries, as his 
 works on Egypt, Servia, and the Adriatic will 
 amply attest; but only those who had the pleasure 
 of his acquaintance can at all venture to measure 
 the loss which his death must be in his own family 
 circle ! 
 
 Now the bell rings, and Giovanni bustles up 
 and down the deck, intimating, "■ che'l pranzo ze 
 -prmto^' so down we all plunged into the saloon, 
 where a good dinner, as usual, welcomed us. 
 
 As the coast is uninteresting, besides which 
 I don't want to go on deck at present, I may as 
 well tell you of what our Italian dinner consisted. 
 We first had an excellent Julienne soup, with 
 abundance of grated Parmesan for such as appre- 
 ciated it; next was served the "/^///o," according 
 to old Italian custom, which always enumerates the 
 
 L
 
 14G Italian Dinner. 
 
 following dishes, to succeed each other in an 
 orthodox dinner: — minestra, fritto, lesso, umido, 
 arrosto, dolce, frutta, and, whe:i in season, slices 
 of melon, or fresh figs, served up immediately after 
 the soup, to be eaten with thin slices of raw ham 
 or Bologna sausage. Figs being in season they 
 were not wanting, so conforming to the usage of 
 the country I ate some with raw Bologna sausage, 
 and learnt fully to appreciate the strange compound, 
 which I afterwards always indulged in whenever I 
 had a chance. 
 
 The fri//o was delicious (assuredly nowhere else 
 can they fry as in Italy) ; it consisted of zucchettine 
 and fiori, i.e., young unexpanded gourd flowers 
 and very young gourds not bigger th^n an egg, 
 cut in thin slices, dipped in the thinnest of batter 
 and fried quite crisp and golden brown, and served 
 dry without a particle of grease. Then came a dish 
 of gnocchi alia Milanese, a superb dish, but diflicult 
 to explain ; imagine the ingredients of a colossal 
 ■vol-au-vent a la financiere, replete with livers, cocks' 
 combs, unborn eggs, &c., &c., surrounded by a 
 bastion of a peculiar preparation, made of maize- 
 flour, and the whole bathed in tomato sauce and
 
 Ejjidaunis, 147 
 
 sprinkled right over with grated Parmesan, "propria 
 da far riavere i morti^' as the chef exclaimed to me 
 after dinner, when, handing him a cigar, I compli- 
 mented him on his gnocchi. Then came the arrosto 
 which consisted of veal and fowls, and after 
 that a splendid piatto dolce of stewed peaches 
 in an artistic cage of caramel sugar, ornament- 
 ed with strange devices of most delicious marza- 
 pane. 
 
 Having slowly worked our way through this 
 sumptuous repast, we went on deck, where coffee 
 was served with its usual accompaniment of 
 Maraschino, both sweetened and unsweetened, 
 together with the inevitable smoke, which contrary 
 to reason, as one would think, is even more 
 comforting in hot countries like the Levant, 
 than it is in cold damp regions like Holland. 
 
 I have a dim recollection of the captain tapping 
 me on the shoulder and telling me something about 
 Regusa Vecchia and Epidaurus as we were 
 steaming down the coast ; but I was in too dreamy 
 a state to pay much attention to him at the time, 
 and as I knew the coast was uninteresting, I told 
 him to call me as soon as we should come in sight 
 
 L 2
 
 148 Canal of C attar o. 
 
 of the Bocche and Castelnuovo, and dozed away 
 again. 
 
 I afterwards learnt that this Epidaurus, about 
 which I was rather fretting for having refused to 
 stir from my siesta to look at it, was really not 
 worth seeing, though an ancient city, having been 
 founded by a Greek colony somewhere about jco 
 years b.c, more or less ; but all its antiquities had 
 been removed long ago. 
 
 It was between three and four in the afternoon 
 when I awoke of my own accord, thus anticipating 
 the captain, who was just coming to tell me that 
 we were about entering the canal of Cattaro, as it 
 is called, but which to our ear is far better 
 described by the name of Fjord of Cattaro. It 
 is to all intents and purposes a Fjord, being an 
 arm of the sea running up for eighteen miles into 
 land, between high precipitous cliffs; and if there 
 is not a glacier at the end of it, but only a quaint 
 Dalmatian town with the most picturesque fort and 
 fortifications in the world, it does not alter the 
 character of the inlet. 
 
 The entrance to this Fjord, called " le Bocche di 
 Cattaro," is guarded on the right by the Fort of
 
 Boccha dl Cattaro. 149 
 
 Castelnuovo, and on the left is bounded by a narrow 
 strip of Turkish territory, a portion of Herzegovina, 
 which here comes down to the Adriatic, separating 
 the Circolo of Ragusa from that of Cattaro. By 
 some strange political arrangement, or oversight 
 more probably, another narrow strip of Turkish 
 territory comes down to the Adriatic on the 
 north of Ragusa, completely isolating that ancient 
 Republic which finds itself thus entirely surrounded 
 by Ottoman territory on three sides, while on the 
 fourth it is bounded by the Adriatic. 
 
 The country about the entrance of the Bocche di 
 Cattaro is fine, well wooded and planted with olive 
 trees, through which can be seen numerous habita- 
 tions, while many of the rugged heights are crowned 
 with semi-fortified churches, which served as places 
 of refuge to the women and children in troublous 
 
 times. 
 
 Proceeding; onwards, the scene varies and the 
 trees lessen in numbers, though the landscape 
 loses nothing of its beauty, as by the constant 
 windings of the Fjord the changes are continuous 
 and rapid, and the many villages built on the 
 edge of the water, and sharply reflected in it,
 
 150 Cattaro. 
 
 add one more charm to the picture. At one point 
 the Fjord is barely half a mile across, when suddenly 
 it expands into a lake of many miles in circumfer- 
 ence, where all the navies of the world could lie 
 in safety. But now the scene changes again and 
 the Fjord becomes a narrow tortuous channel, 
 bounded on either side by naked rocky cliffs. Like 
 the rest of the coast of Dalmatia it is, however, 
 very beautiful. About half way between Castel- 
 nuovo and Cattaro, the Fjord expands and divides 
 right and left forming two bays, that of Risano 
 to the left, and that of Cattaro to the right ; 
 while in front rise the almost perpendicular crags of 
 Montenegro, at the foot of which, with barely 
 room to build on, so near does the mountain 
 come to the edge of the water, stands the town 
 of Perasto with the ancient fort of Santa Crocejust 
 above it. 
 
 This place must have been of considerable 
 importance within late years, still I never saw such 
 a picture of poverty and desolation. The houses 
 are not in ruins, but look dilapidated ; the windows 
 are broken in, the jalousies hanging by one hinge 
 and in pieces, while in many places the roofs are
 
 Ferasto. 151 
 
 stripped of their tiles. The position of Perasto 
 cannot be surpassed ; built on a promontory 
 facing the west, it has the lake-like expansion 
 of the Gulf of Cattaro in front and does not 
 consequently labour under the disadvantage Cattaro 
 suffers from, by having a chain of mountains in 
 front of it to the westward, which deprive it of 
 the sun in Winter before two o'clock in the after- 
 noon. The style of the houses in Perasto shows 
 that not long ago it could boast of an opulent 
 population, which is further exemplified by the 
 fortress built at the expense of the town — by its 
 lofty steeple and by its churches. One in particular 
 caught my eye from the steamer, // had no fa^ade^ 
 not that it had fallen into ruin, neither had it been 
 shaken down by an earthquake, but was built so ; 
 open to the weather with a half cupola something 
 like one of those little roadside shrines dedicated 
 to the Virgin which we meet with constantly in 
 Italy and other Catholic countries, only on a very 
 much larger scale. 
 
 I felt quite interested in Perasto, it looked so 
 picturesque, so noble, so poor ! One house 
 especially struck my fancy, but the word house
 
 152 San Giorgio and La Madonna. 
 
 does not convey its appearance, it was what an 
 Italian would call a palazzo. The entrance was 
 evidently from a back street, while the side which 
 faced the water consisted of a loggia of many 
 pilasters and arches, into which opened the rooms 
 of the ground floor, while above it were tiers 
 of large and handsome windows. In front of the 
 loggia was a paved terrace, from which a series 
 of steps, the whole length of the house, led down 
 to the water. It was uninhabited and in fact 
 going rapidly to ruin ! I fancied to myself what 
 a little paradise one could make of it ; I saw in 
 my mind's eye a row of orange trees growing on 
 that terrace, a yacht moored close into those 
 steps, and life and bustle in those chambers 
 where all was now silence and decay. What can 
 have brought such desolation on Perasto ? I 
 asked several people but I could get no satisfactory 
 answer! some blamed Austria, some // commercio ; 
 I suppose I could have bought the fee simple of that 
 house in Perasto for a^io note. 
 
 In front of Perasto are two small islands — 
 San Giorgio and La Madonna. In the church of 
 La Madonna is to be seen an ancient picture
 
 Picture of the Virgin. 153 
 
 of the Virgin, attributed as usual to the artistic 
 efforts of the Evangelist Luke, who evidently, 
 from what I have seen of his works of art in 
 different places, was not possessed of much talent 
 in that line. Tradition states that the picture was 
 transported in 1452, by an unknown hand, from 
 Negropont to this rock ; and being seen amidst 
 lighted candles by some fishermen, it was removed 
 to the church of Perasto. The next night it 
 returned to the island ; and the same action having 
 been repeated three times, it was presumed that the 
 picture preferred remaining there ; thus they built 
 a church for it, which no doubt turned out a profit- 
 able speculation.
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 CITY OF CATTARO— SIGNOR JACKSCHICH— STREETS AND PIAZZAS 
 — WALKS AND FORTIFICATIONS— PUBLIC WALK— CAFE AND 
 GARDENS — SONOROUS STONE — A MONTENEGRIN CHIEF — A 
 HAPPY BEGGAR BOY. 
 
 URNING our backs now on that 
 branch of the Fjord which leads to 
 Risano, we steamed due south in 
 the direction of Cattaro. Nothing 
 could exceed the wild grandeur of this portion of 
 the Gulf. The right hand shore was now entirely 
 in the shade, while the crags on the left being 
 exposed to the full glare of the afternoon sun 
 showed a play of colours too beautiful to describe. 
 Had these cliffs been clothed with varied foliage 
 interspersed with the rocks, they would have 
 formed a picture unequalled in any other place on 
 the globe.
 
 Slgnor JachschicJi. 155 
 
 It was six o'clock when we moored alongside the 
 quay of Cattaro, one of the most picturesque cities 
 of the whole Adriatic, so I had plenty of time to 
 walk about and see the place as well as to make 
 arrangements for my advance into Montenegro 
 on the following day, as I was anxious to proceed 
 at once to Cettigne, in order to be present at the 
 festival of St. Peter, during which a fair is held, 
 to which congregate thousands, not only from Mon- 
 tenegro, but from all the surrounding countries. 
 Thanks, however, to Persich Effendi, the Ottoman 
 Consul at Ragusa, to whom I had brought an 
 introduction from the Ottoman Ambassador at 
 Vienna, I found everything already prepared for 
 my trip. The agent of the Austrian Lloyd at 
 Cattaro, Signor Jackschich to whom I can never 
 feel too much obliged, had already procured for 
 me a guide and two horses, thus saving me all 
 trouble, and allowing so much more time to look 
 about me at Cattaro. As soon as we had obtained 
 pratique, the formality of which we carried out 
 regularly at every place we touched, though, in 
 reality, it was a farce, Signor Jackschich came on 
 board, and having introduced himself and told me
 
 156 Cattaro. 
 
 what he had arranged, placed himself at my 
 disposal for the rest of the evening. We at 
 once went on shore, and traversing the Mall, 
 which lies between the quays and the walls of 
 the city, and which serves as the promenade of 
 the Bocchesi, we passed through the principal gate 
 of Cattaro, and entered the precincts of the forti- 
 fications. 
 
 Here, as in most other cities in Dalmatia, no 
 horse, or vehicle of any kind (except sedan chairs) 
 is allowed to enter. The streets in consequence are 
 beautifully clean, and the piazza, which is paved 
 in squares of alternate coloured marble, is more 
 like the floor of the hall of an Italian palace than 
 anything else. The streets are narrow, as might 
 have been surmised, but there are some very fine 
 old houses, some exquisite bits of art hidden 
 away in nooks and corners which one would have 
 loved to sketch had there been time, half built up 
 porticoes with oleanders peeping over them, and 
 bits of lovely hammered iron work of the Renais- 
 sance period. But I had no time, so after making 
 a rapid tour through the little city, we came out 
 on the promenade, as I was anxious to have ano-
 
 Tlie Fortifications. 157 
 
 ther view of Cattaro, from the outside, before it 
 became too dark. 
 
 My friend Paton does not render half justice to 
 this city in his charming book, " The Highlands 
 and Islands of the Adriatic ;" but he is so in love 
 with Ragusa — and, if truth must be told, so am I 
 — that he has nothing to say for Cattaro ; it is 
 true he saw it in Winter, when it must be a dismal 
 place. But Cattaro, for all that, deserves a visit, 
 and anyone fond of sketching will spend, with 
 profit, several days in and about the place. It is 
 situated at the extreme end of the Fjord of that 
 name, on a very narrow ledge of land at the foot 
 of the most precipitous cliffs facing the west, 
 up which it extends for a short space. It 
 is surrounded by the ancient Venetian walls, bas- 
 tions and fortifications, and crowned by a fort 
 perched on the very summit of the rock, a thou- 
 sand feet above the city. Looking at it from 
 below, it seems scarcely balanced on the cliff, and 
 one expects to see it come tumbling down every 
 moment. 
 
 The fortifications of the town are connected by 
 crenelated walls with the fort itself on two sides.
 
 158 Public Walh 
 
 thus inclosing a considerable space on the face of 
 the mountain, something in the shape of a triangle, 
 of which the town would form the base, and the 
 fort the apex, which is still garrisoned, and many 
 a harmless rusty old cannon can be seen peeping 
 through the embrasures. Having returned from 
 the opposite side of the water, where I had gone 
 the better to see the fortifications, we took a walk 
 up and down the esplanade between the water and 
 the walls, to look at the i^eau monde on their boule- 
 vard, and then adjourned to the cafe on the same 
 esplanade to have some ices al fresco^ and make 
 our final arrangements for the following morn- 
 ing.' 
 
 The public walk at Cattaro is very well laid 
 out, and the most is made of the very contracted 
 space at command. Two rows of large trees ex- 
 tend along the walls on each side of the gate, above 
 which is to be seen, as usual, the Lion of St. Mark. 
 Not so natural, perhaps, as Edwin Landseer's ani- 
 mals at the foot of Nelson's column ; but, certainly, 
 a more dignified beast than the one with straight 
 tail which until lately kept watch and ward over 
 Trafalgar Square from the top of Northumberland
 
 Pero PejoDich. 159 
 
 House. At the northern end of the Mall is the 
 cafe^ and round about it the grounds are laid out 
 in gardens, where, under the shade of gigantic 
 oleanders and mulberry trees, little round tables, 
 made of enormously thick slabs, resting on short 
 central pillars, for all the world like Brobdingna- 
 gian mushrooms, are laid out and surrounded with 
 stools for the accommodation of all comers. The 
 stone of which these round tables are made is 
 powerfully sonorous, and if lightly struck, even 
 with one's knuckles, gives out a beautiful soft 
 tone. If cut into lengths and properly poised, 
 excellent rock harmoniums could be made of 
 it. 
 
 Here I fell in again with the Russian Consul, 
 who introduced me to one of the finest specimens 
 of men I ever saw, a Montenegrin chief, by name 
 Pero Pejovich, commandant of the Grahovo (pro- 
 nounced Graho), who had come from Risano in a 
 boat, and was bound for Montenegro to be pre- 
 sent at the Feast. He was dressed in full gala 
 Montenegrin costume, plus the Risano jacket of 
 crimson cloth without sleeves, thickly embroidered 
 with gold, and on it the medals and decorations
 
 1 GO Delightful Evening. 
 
 he had gained in battle. At another table were 
 seated, also in full costume, two Montenegrin ladies 
 of a family who had been exiled for political causes, 
 and who were waiting at Cattaro in hopes of 
 obtaining an amnesty which would permit them 
 to return to their homes. 
 
 The sun had set, and the short twilight had 
 nearly merged into darkness ; the great heat of the 
 day was now tempered by a delicious balmy feel- 
 ing, as the cooler air from the mountains came 
 down to mingle with that of the lower strata ; the 
 musical hum of the many voices, the exquisite 
 Trebigne tobacco in our cigarettes, the delicious 
 coffee, all conspired to make that evening one of 
 the most delightful I ever passed. I got another 
 chair, and stretched my legs on it; the natives 
 stared — no Oriental ever thinks of stretching his 
 legs — the acme of comfort for him is to tuck them 
 under him. I felt supremely happy, and expressed 
 myself so. 
 
 " I could live here for ever," I said to Signor 
 Jackschich. 
 
 " Nay," rejoined Pero Pejovich, " but wait till 
 it rains, and you will soon wish to run away from
 
 A Beggar Boy. 161 
 
 Cattaro. I have known it rain here for six weeks 
 without stopping for a moment." 
 
 At this juncture, the band of the Austrian regi- 
 ment quartered here came on the scene, with the 
 same lamp arrangement I had seen at Pola, and 
 for upwards of an hour played the most deli- 
 cious music to our intense delight. The Consul 
 now reminded me that we should have to start 
 betimes the following morning, if we wanted 
 to avoid being roasted in the middle of the day 
 on the rocks of Montenegro. But the sense of 
 enjoyment was too great, and I could not bear to 
 break the spell of the hour which I was enjoying 
 to the fullest. That I should have an excuse for de- 
 laying a little longer, I began to talk in Italian to a 
 little beggar boy who had quietly been asking me 
 for something the whole evening, not with noisy 
 importunate appeals, but by the eloquent look 
 of about the finest pair of eyes that ever were 
 seen. 
 
 " Don't take any notice of the young ruffian," 
 said Signer Jackschich, " he is the plague of the 
 town, and the worry of his father. He won't 
 work, and he is in every mischief that is going." 
 
 M
 
 162 Tutto iKv lid. 
 
 " But I don't tell lies — neither do I steal," re- 
 torted the bold young brat, who could be no 
 more than eight or nine. " It is too hot to work, 
 and as to going home to sleep la dentro^' he 
 said, pointing over his shoulder with his thumb 
 to the town, " when I can enjoy the cool nights 
 under these trees al fresco^ I would rather not !" 
 
 He spoke excellent Italian, and his manner was 
 dignified and self possessed. 
 
 " Diable /" said Yonin, " nous avons ici un phi- 
 losopJie /" 
 
 " Can you speak German or French, little chap?" 
 I said. 
 
 " No," he replied in Italian, " non parlo che Illi- 
 rico ed Italiano!' 
 
 I gave him coins to the amount of about a franc ; 
 but when he saw so much money in the palm of 
 his hand — an amonnt which, to his eyes, seemed 
 perfectly fabulous — his first impulse was to hold 
 it out to me again, thinking I was joking with 
 him; but when I assured him it was veramente tutto 
 per lui^ he cut three capers in the air, and rushed 
 away to where some other children were, to show 
 his treasures and recount his good fortune. Of
 
 A Happy Boy. 163 
 
 all the subjects of the Emperor of Austria, in all 
 his vast dominions, I venture to say that the 
 happiest on that night was that little beggar brat 
 in the secluded little city of Cattaro at the far 
 end of his empire in the extreme point of Dal- 
 matia. 
 
 M 2
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 MONTENEGRIN TRADERS — LE SCALE DI CATTARO — A GOR- 
 GEOUSLY-ATTIRED MONK — OUR CARAVAN — MONTENEGRINS OF 
 THE prince's body-guard — INTERESTING VIEW — ABSENCE 
 OF TREES ON THE DALMATIAN COAST— A HOME FOR GERMAN 
 EMIGRANTS — TURKISH MISRULE IN EUROPE — A FUTURE EM- 
 PIRE — A MAN FIT TO RULE. 
 
 T the earliest peep of day on the 
 morning of the 9th of July, I arose 
 from the deck of the steamer on 
 which I had slept for so many plea- 
 sant nights, notwithstanding its hardness. Thanks 
 to the kind attention of Giovanni, the steward, a 
 cup of hot and tolerably good coffee was not 
 wanting to fortify me against the effects of the 
 morning air. He wanted me to add a small glass
 
 Oitr Caravan. 165 
 
 of maraschino unsweetened ^^ per scacciar I'aria 
 cattiva" as he said in his Venetian dialect, but not 
 being addicted to -pegs^ I contented myself with the 
 coffee and a few biscuits. 
 
 The faintest tinge of rose showing in the East 
 over the rocks which hang over Cattaro, seeming 
 ever to threaten it with instant ruin, barely enabled 
 me at first to distinguish objects on the mole 
 alongside of which our steamer was moored ; but 
 as the light increased I could make out, under the 
 shadow of the trees which form the boulevard and 
 public promenade of the Bocchesi, the stalwart 
 figures of a dozen Montenegrins who had come 
 down from Cettigne to accompany the Russian 
 Consul on his way to the festival of St. Peter, and 
 the court of the illustrious Prince who now so 
 wisely rules those splendid mountain tribes. 
 
 Modestly drawn up on one side of them I could 
 see my own portion of the caravan, consisting of 
 only two horses, one to carry myself, the other to 
 carry my luggage, all under the direction of the 
 excellent guide provided for me the day before by 
 the kindness of Signor Jackschich. 
 
 Everything was now ready and myself in the
 
 166 La Scale di Cattaro. 
 
 saddle, when the Russian Consul made his ap- 
 pearance, and we finally started just as the dawn 
 was quickening into day. 
 
 Skirting by the bastions which defend Cattaro 
 on the sea side, we crossed the bridge that spans 
 the little mountain torrent which here empties itself 
 into the sea, and turning sharply to the right we 
 passed through the open market-place where the 
 Montenegrins come down to sell their farm-produce 
 to the Bocchesi ; but who, owing to the somewhat 
 evil name they have unfairly acquired, are never 
 allowed to penetrate into the city unless they first 
 deliver up their arms at the military post outside, 
 just as we do at Aden with the Arabs of the sur- 
 rounding districts. 
 
 Having crossed the market-place, we reached in 
 a few minutes the base of the rocks, and at once 
 commenced ascending that wonderful road zig- 
 zagged across the face of the mountain, and known 
 by the name of " Le scale di Cattaro." Here we 
 joined an additional party, also journeying to 
 Cettigne for the festival of St. Peter, and among 
 them was conspicuous the handsome Montenegrin 
 Chieftain, Pero Pejovich, commandant of the
 
 Plctiirescpie-looldng Moiih. 167 
 
 Grahovo, whose pleasant acquaintance we had made 
 the evening before under the mulberry trees of 
 Cattaro. 
 
 There was also in the same group a monk, a 
 most picturesque looking individual, but certainly- 
 most unclerical-looking. He was dressed in a 
 costume very much resembling the Montenegrin 
 fashion, only of sombre colours, and had his jerkin 
 trimmed with furs instead of embroideries. He 
 wore on his head a sort of black fez, from under 
 which his sable curls fell hanging on his neck, while 
 his full beard, innocent of trimming, flowed amply 
 on his chest. His face was handsome and swarthy, 
 and had a not unkind expression. In figure he was 
 slight, and of medium height. He came from a 
 monastery in the Herzegovina, a province of Turkey 
 in Europe lying co-terminous to Montenegro on its 
 Northern border, and which, strange enough, 
 comes down at one point to the very sea at the 
 opening of the Fjord of Cattaro, thus thrusting 
 itself into and dividing the Austrian sea-board of 
 Dalmatia into two. 
 
 What was he coming to Montenegro for ? Simply 
 to be inducted abbot of his own monastery, which
 
 168 The Abbot Elect. 
 
 ceremony by right should have been performed 
 by the Greek Patriarch at Constantinople ; but 
 although Herzegovina is subject to the Sultan, yet 
 all the Christian mountaineers of that region, though 
 not Montenegrins by blood, are Montenegrins at 
 heart, and all look to the Metropolitan at Cettigne 
 as their spiritual head, while to the Prince they 
 look up as the only sovereign to whom they owe 
 absolute allegiance. 
 
 The abbot elect rode a beautiful, small grey 
 entero^ wonderfully quick and sure-footed, capa- 
 risoned with gorgeous trappings, consisting of a 
 large blue saddle-cloth embroidered with gold, over 
 which lay an immense saddle of crimson velvet 
 studded with large gilt-headed nails. The bridle 
 was of the same Oriental style, while the bit was 
 something to be looked at, both as regards size, 
 ornament and power. 
 
 The Abbot sat his entero, as if riding at the 
 head of a party of Baschi-Bazouks would be quite 
 as much, if not more to his liking, than leading 
 the chaunts at matins and vespers in his own 
 monastery. There was nothing fierce about his 
 countenance, but there was a sort of "stand and
 
 The Princess Body -Guard. 169 
 
 deliver" look about his whole get up, that would 
 have made one feel somewhat anxious had one 
 chanced to meet him a quattr occhi in some lonely 
 pass. 
 
 Our caravan consisted in all of about twenty- 
 five persons, as we had been joined by several 
 parties all bent on the same excursion, to partake 
 of the rejoicings at Cettigne. First marched four 
 Montenegrins of the Prince's body-guard, splendid 
 specimens of their race, the shortest over six feet 
 high, with rich ruddy complexions, deeply bronzed 
 *by exposure in all weathers, with dark grey or 
 blue eyes, dark brown, almost black hair, cut short, 
 close shaved beard and large moustachios, and 
 fine, open, manly countenances. They wore the 
 national costume of the country, namely, loose 
 baggy blue trousers, made very full and confined 
 under the knee by a strap, below that, their 
 legs were encased in tight-fitting white woollen 
 gaiters, fastened by a row of close-set small 
 metallic buttons all along the back, from the heel 
 to below the knee, while on their feet they 
 wore a peculiar pointed shoe of undressed leather, 
 the upper of which is contrived of numberless
 
 170 Costume of the Bodij-Guard. 
 
 small thongs plaited up the middle over the 
 instep, which afford wonderful pliancy and power 
 of grasping to the feet, and are quite characteristic 
 of this region ; a sleeveless crimson jacket, and 
 over all the well-known long surtout of fine white 
 cloth, without a collar, fastened round the waist 
 by an enormous silken scarf as much as eighteen 
 feet long, and which supported in front a perfect 
 armoury of weapons. First a yataghan three feet 
 long with richly ornamented sheath and handle, 
 then two highly ornamented Turkish pistols nearly 
 as long, then a poniard, and lastly a special pair 
 of tongs for lifting fire into their smoking pipes, 
 which, excepting when on duty, were never out 
 of their mouths. But as if such an armoury 
 were insufficient, they carried at their sides a 
 formidable-looking, highly curved Turkish sabre, 
 and over their shoulder a long, rakish, Albanian- 
 looking, breech-loading gun. This last they were 
 ever shifting in position, although the favourite 
 mode of carrying it seemed to be across the 
 shoulders, something like the way young ladies at 
 properly conducted schools are made to shoulder
 
 Ascent of the Scala. 171 
 
 their backboards, with their hands hanging over 
 the stock and barrel. 
 
 We all followed pell-mell, sometimes in single 
 file, sometimes by twos, according as the inequality 
 of the path or its width, either prevented or 
 admitted of it, while the remainder of the guard 
 brought up the rear. So up we climbed, zigzag 
 after zigzag, some of us above and some of us 
 below until we reach the top of the scala 
 where Austrian territory ceases and Montenegro 
 begins. 
 
 The sun was now well up above the Eastern 
 horizon, when the sudden cessation of the road 
 gave us notice of our change of territory, and 
 looking round towards the Adriatic to which we 
 mostly had been turning our backs during the 
 ascent, we saw a view that 1 don't know which 
 would be most difficult, whether to sketch or to 
 describe. 
 
 I think we must have been at least three 
 thousand feet above the sea. At any rate, 
 owing to the steepness of the rocks on which 
 we stood, together with the clearness of the atmos- 
 phere, the city of Cattaro seemed perpendicularly
 
 172 Vieio of Cattaro. 
 
 beneath us, while the coast of Dalmatia, the entire 
 canal of Cattaro with all its windings and the 
 many towns scattered on its coast, the forts at its 
 mouth, and the blue Adriatic beyond, seemed laid 
 out like a map at our feet. 
 
 The path, up which we had been toiling ever 
 since we left the town, lay in zigzags before 
 us like a white ribbon stretched out upon the 
 face of the precipice. It reminded me somewhat 
 of the pass of the Gemml in Switzerland, but 
 was far more beautiful, while the bird's-eve view 
 of the town, with its fortress and its fortifications, 
 was most novel and astonishing. Perched as 
 we- were almost perpendicularly over Cattaro, 
 and thus looking right down over their heads, 
 we could see its inhabitants only like black 
 specks moving about its miniature squares and 
 streets, while the old fortress with its crenelated 
 walls and its antiquated bastions, rising out of the 
 bluish haze which hung over the chasm that 
 yawns between the rock on which it is built 
 and the one on which we were standing, made 
 such a picture as Turner wonld have loved to 
 study.
 
 Absence of Trees. 173 
 
 It was one of the most beautiful and extra- 
 ordinary sights I ever saw, and only lacked the 
 presence of foliage to make it perfect. But 
 total absence of timber is the characteristic of 
 the entire coast of Dalmatia, a fact much to be 
 regretted not only for the loss it is to the 
 country from a picturesque point of view, but 
 principally from the economical aspect of the 
 question — as well managed forests would be of 
 immense value both from the timber they would 
 yield, and the increased humidity they would 
 afford to that arid region, where a sufficient rain- 
 fall would increase the fertility, and consequently 
 the revenue more than a hundredfold. 
 
 If some of the millions which are yearly 
 wasted by the Austrian Government, as well as 
 by others too, in building ironclads and exploding 
 torpedoes, and in many other equally unreproduc- 
 tive undertakings, were spent on the coast of 
 Dalmatia in planting olive trees on the side of 
 those mountains as far up as they could flourish, 
 then walnut trees, then chestnut trees, and 
 finally oaks and firs, I think I can safely assert 
 that in thirty years the full cost of the first
 
 174 Germ-an Emigration 
 
 outlay would be repaid, while the benefit to the 
 country at large would be incalculable. 
 
 It is not in a book like this that the best 
 modes for bringing about the cultivation of the 
 Dalmatian shores of the Adriatic are to be discussed, 
 but that it could be done and should be done, is 
 undoubted ; and not in Dalmatia alone, but also 
 to the east of that country, in the lands beyond 
 the Vellebitch, through Servia, and all that vast 
 tract of country subject now to the impoverishing 
 influence of Turkish mal-administration. 
 
 It always makes me sad when I think of those 
 rich countries lying fallow for want of hands to 
 cultivate them, and a good government to encourage 
 industry, and when I see shipload after shipload 
 of hard-working industrious Germans leaving 
 Hamburg, Bremen, and other German ports, 
 risking the perils, the inconveniences, and the 
 expenses of their voluntary exile, traversing 
 thousands of miles of ocean route to reach at 
 last an unknown country, from which it is 
 doubtful if they will ever have a chance of return- 
 ing to their Fatherland ; when those fertile lands 
 of Servia lie at the very threshold of their
 
 A Future Emperor. 175 
 
 country, with no sea to intervene, and only a few 
 days of rail and river to go over. But the present 
 state of things cannot continue for ever ; and even 
 now promising signs of amendment are not wanting. 
 The monstrous anomaly of some of the richest 
 lands of Christian Europe being still in this 
 nineteenth century under the misrule of barbarous 
 Asiatic hordes, whilst millions of wretched Christian 
 inhabitants are kept in the most abject servitude, 
 must ere long be done away with ; and all those 
 countries, Servia, Bosnia, Herzegovina, Roumelia, 
 and all lying between the Danube and the Adriatic 
 must before very long be amalgamated under some 
 one chief. Who the man may be upon whom the 
 noble responsibility may fall of governing this 
 future empire, it is impossible now to conjecture, 
 for the several countries which would go to form 
 this new dominion are still scattered and dis- 
 organized; but the great bond of a common 
 language will soon unite them again, when the time 
 comes, and probably that is not distant, for now we 
 do in weeks what our forefathers did in centuries. 
 When that moment shall come, I venture to 
 hope, in the interest of this new country, that one
 
 176 The Man for the Throne. 
 
 totally unconnected with the present contending 
 clans may assume the direction of affairs, 
 
 I know the man but I shall not name him. 
 Handsome in person, brave, courteous, highly 
 educated, and unsullied by any of those Eastern 
 vices which so frequently shock our Western 
 susceptibilities — equally unconnected with either 
 the Kara Georgevich or the Obrenovich parties — 
 his elevation to the throne of Servia would put a 
 stop to that system of hereditary vendetta which 
 seems for the present too deeply rooted in both 
 those clans to permit us to hope in its extinction at 
 least for a time, while it would extend to those 
 countries the benefits of that wise administration 
 which he has already so ably initiated in his own 
 country. But I must pull up my hobby-horse 
 sharp ; he is already in full gallop, and if he once 
 gets the bit between his teeth, he will never check 
 his mad career till he stops at the gates of 
 Stamboul.
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 THE PKINCE OF MONTENEGRO — UNJUST DEPRIVATION OF TER- 
 RITORY — ORIGIN OF THE NAME OF THE COUNTRY —A FRIEND 
 IN NEED— VILLAGE OF NIEGOSCH — PANORAMA SEEN FROM 
 THE TOP OF THE PASS— WILD-LOOKING HERDS AND FLOCKS 
 — MONTENEGRIN LEGEND — ARRIVAL AT CETTIGNE — THE 
 VLADIKA'S PALACE— the TREE OF JUSTICE— TOWER OF CET- 
 TIGNE. 
 
 gURING my stay in Montenegro, I 
 had the honour of several private 
 conversations with the Prince of that 
 interesting country, and I was as- 
 tonished at the amount of practical knowledge he 
 possessed, and the advanced views he entertained, 
 with regard to commerce, administration, and 
 
 N
 
 17S Principalitij of Montenegro. 
 
 political economy. But he is cramped up in every 
 way, Montenegro has no outlet, and though his 
 native mountains come so near to the Adriatic that 
 a man could almost spring from them into the 
 sea, still there is everywhere a narrow strip of 
 land between them and that sea, which effectually 
 excludes him from direct commercial or other inter- 
 course with the rest of the world. 
 
 This strip of land, in some places only a few 
 yards wide, belongs to Austria and forms part of 
 the Province of Dalmatia. During the reign of 
 Napoleon I. the Principality of Montenegro extended 
 for a short period to the sea shore, and Cattaro was 
 occupied by the Montenegrins till the 14th June, 
 1 8 14, when it was most unjustly taken away from 
 them again and incorporated with the Austrian 
 Empire by the Congress of Vienna. An act of 
 injustice all the more flagrant, that the Turkish 
 territory was allowed to come down to the sea at 
 the opening of the Gulf of Cattaro, dividing the 
 territory of Ragusa from that of Cattaro, and thus 
 affording the Mahommedan rulers of a Christian 
 land advantages which are denied to the neighbour- 
 ing Christian Principality.
 
 Ascent into Tchneriiagora. 179 
 
 But whilst I am admiring the scene before me 
 and pondering over the wrongs and the resources of 
 these interesting countries, I must not forget that 
 the sun is every moment getting higher in the 
 heavens, and that it is important to get on with 
 our journey, in order to avoid being out on those arid 
 rocks during the heat of the day. 
 
 Our caravan was now in motion again, but the 
 road having almost ceased to exist, we had to pro- 
 ceed more cautiously, picking our way among loose 
 stones and boulders, sometimes following a sort of 
 path, and sometimes climbing up the dried up 
 water-courses of Winter torrents. After another 
 short interval of clambering, we reached a fountain 
 where everyone considered it his duty to dismount 
 and drink, as did also our cattle. When we had 
 refreshed ourselves with copious draughts from that 
 cool spring we again faced up the mountain, but 
 this time on foot, as owing to the steepness and 
 ruggedness of the rocks, it was not deemed 
 advisable to attempt it on horseback. 
 
 Except climbing up the cone of Vesuvius, where 
 one generally makes two steps in advance and three 
 steps backwards, I never met anything more trying 
 
 N 2
 
 180 Amiable Giant. 
 
 than some parts of this ascent into Tchernagora 
 or the " Black Mountains," as the natives called 
 this region, and which was rendered by the Vene- 
 tians into " Montenegro," the name it retains to 
 this day. 
 
 The sun was becoming extremely hot, and I 
 should have found it considerably difficult to keep 
 my place, but for the occasional assistance afforded 
 me by the powerful hand and arm of my Prince 
 of Mountaineers, Pero Pejovich, who whenever 
 I came to some rugged impediment which seemed 
 to tax my energies more than usual, would quickly, 
 with one hand passed under my arms close below 
 my shoulder, lift me bodily over it, with his broad 
 good-humoured face beaming with smiles ; and 
 when I tell you, gentle reader, that I sometimes 
 weigh 7}w?^e but never less than fourteen stone, I 
 leave you to calculate the strength of my amiable 
 giant. 
 
 We had now topped the worst of our ascent, 
 and remounting our horses commenced a short descent 
 to a little plain surrounded by steep, rugged, barren 
 rocks seemingly the bed of some ancient dried up 
 lake. At the further extremity of this little plain
 
 Valitahle Interpreter. 181 
 
 could be seen half-a-dozen scattered houses forming 
 the village of Niegosch, the birth-place of the 
 Prince of Montenegro, as well as the cradle of his 
 race, from which they take their patronimic of 
 Petrovich Niegosch. 
 
 We rode up straight to the principal house where 
 we were expected and received by a young 
 Petrovich, a cousin of the Prince, a very handsome 
 young fellow, with whom unfortunately I could 
 only have conversation by the help of Pero 
 Pejovich, who speaking Italian as well as Monte- 
 negrin, always proved himself a most valuable 
 interpreter. 
 
 We made a very short stay here, as we wanted 
 to reach Cettigne before the middle of the day ; so 
 having partaken of some excellent coffee, served up 
 with toast and such clotted cream as I never before 
 tasted out of Devonshire, and having admired the 
 gorgeous arms which hung round young Petrovich's 
 room, each of which had some story attached to it, 
 all being trophies taken in battle from the Turks, 
 we mounted our horses, and again plunging into 
 a ravine recommenced the difficult ascent. 
 
 After a short but arduous climb, we at lengrh
 
 182 Wilderness of BocJcs. 
 
 reached the top of the pass and the highest pohit 
 between Cattaro and Cettigne. Here a wonderful 
 panorama spread itself out before us — not beautiful, 
 perhaps, but grand in its way. Right, left, and 
 front, nothing could be seen but barren, grey 
 mountain tops — except right in front of us, where 
 at a short distance lay the valley of Cettigne, also 
 apparently the bed of an ancient Alpine lake. 
 Beyond that plain the bleak and rocky mountains 
 closed in again; and beyond them, fdv in 
 the hazy distance, shining in the noon-day sun, 
 could be seen the glittering lake of Scutari, 
 or more properly of Skodra, in Northern 
 Albania. 
 
 A scene like this could scarcely be conceived, such 
 a wilderness of rocks, such a picture of sterility, 
 had never met my eyes. Peak after peak, desolate 
 and barren, rose in every direction, as far as the 
 sight could reach ; and as the point on which 
 we stood must have been more than four thou- 
 sand feet above the sea, the distance we could 
 see in that bright clear atmosphere may be 
 imagined. 
 
 The rocks of which those mountains are formed
 
 Montenegrin Legend. 183 
 
 looked ashy grey in the bright sunlight, except here 
 and there in some of the ravines where a scanty, 
 scrubby vegetation, struggling for existence, offered 
 a precarious subsistence to considerable flocks of 
 small wild goats, herded by still wilder-looking 
 children. These grey rocky masses, when it rains, 
 become of a dark slate colour, nearly black, and 
 hence arose the name of the country, Tcherna- 
 gora. 
 
 To account for the presence of such immense 
 quantities of stones in their country, the Montene- 
 grins have a legend which says that after the Creator 
 had made this earth, the Devil was permitted to go 
 and scatter stones all over it. He carried the stones 
 in a bag over his shoulder, but as he passed in his 
 flight over their country, the bag suddenly 
 burst, and thus a greater share of stones fell 
 to their lot than they were fairly entitled 
 to. 
 
 I don't know which was the most fatiguing, the 
 climb up to the top of the pass, or the scramble 
 down ; I think the latter, and if I did reach the 
 bottom without a fall or a sprained ankle, I owe 
 it all to my excellent fellow-traveller, Pero Pejovich,
 
 184 Spacious Hotel. 
 
 who kept a sturdy hold of me all through, and 
 saved rne, I am sure, from many an ugly 
 tumble. 
 
 At last we found ourselves in the little plain of 
 Cettigne, and putting spurs to our small horses 
 cantered over the turf till we reached the first 
 houses of the straggling street which constitutes the 
 capital of one of the most interesting countries in 
 Europe. 
 
 The next travellers who visit Cettigne will find 
 there good accommodation in a spacious hotel, 
 which was all but completed before I left ; but 
 when I was there, nothing existed in the shape of 
 an inn except a couple of very wretched khans, 
 where it would have been difficult to get rest, 
 owing to the activity of the insect population and 
 the total absence of every accommodation. Thanks 
 to the liberal hospitality of His Highness, I was 
 provided, by his orders, with apartments in the 
 ancient fortified palace of the Vladikas, or Prince- 
 Bishops of Montenegro, to which I was conducted 
 by one of His Highness's aide-de-camps, who 
 had come to meet me. This gentleman had been 
 educated in France, at the Military School of St.
 
 ilfr. Nico Matanovich. 185 
 
 Cyr, spoke French like a Parisian, and was most 
 kind in never allowing me to want for anything. 
 Guessing that I did not know a word of Slave, he 
 had most thoughtfully appointed a man in the 
 town, who could speak a few words of Italian, to 
 attend me during my stay, and to provide me daily 
 with food from a sort of very primitive restau- 
 rant in the place. 
 
 Having rested a couple of hours after eating an 
 early dinner, according to the fashion of southern 
 countries, I received a visit from Mr. Nico Mata- 
 novich, the gentleman alluded to above, and to 
 whom I was indebted for the comfort with which 
 I was installed, who in company with the Russian 
 Consul (who was residing at the new Palace with 
 the Prince), came to propose a walk about the 
 place as soon as the sun should be somewhat nearer 
 to the horizon. Having ordered up coffee, as is 
 always expected in these countries, Mr. Nico Mata- 
 novich conveyed to me the agreeable information 
 that His Highness would receive me the following 
 day at eleven o'clock in the morning. In reply, 
 I begged he would present my humble respects to 
 His Highness, and my unbounded thanks for
 
 186 Palace of the VlacUJcas. 
 
 the handsome manner in which 1 was treated. 
 The sun being now sufficiently low, we sallied 
 forth to take a turn round the place, and see what 
 was to be seen. But before I leave my quarters, 
 let me try to give some idea of the Vladika's 
 Palace, where I was lodged. This quaint old 
 building consists of a quadrangle of about a hun- 
 dred and fifty paces* either way, surrounded by a 
 very massive and high wall, pierced by two large 
 roofed-in gateways, one in front and one at the 
 side, and having at each corner a round squat 
 tower with a conical roof, reminding one somewhat 
 of those that surround, at intervals, the Kremlin at 
 Moscow, Running midway from side to side, and 
 dividing this enclosure into about two equal parts is 
 the palace itself, which consists of two stories, the 
 second of which is divided into a series of chambers, 
 each about sixteen feet square and ten feet high," 
 all opening into each other, and communicating 
 also at the back with a wide corridor which goes 
 the whole length of the building. The windows, 
 
 * I had taken exact measurements, but some ot my notes were 
 unfortunately lost — the above measurements are, therefore, only 
 approximative.
 
 Neio Palace. 187 
 
 of which there are two to each room, look into 
 the front compartment of the quadrangle, while 
 the windows of the corridor look on the back. 
 
 The entrance is by a hall door from which one 
 ascends at once to the upper story, by means of a 
 massive wooden staircase formed of solid beams of 
 timber roughly hewn. The lower story has been 
 turned partly into an arsenal, principally filled with 
 ancient weapons taken from the Turks, and partly 
 into a Government school ; the upper rooms are 
 occupied at one end by the Archimandrite and 
 some other officials — the rest are untenanted. In 
 the centre of the front court-yard is a deep well of 
 the most delicious water, and so cold that I used 
 it to cool my wine and beer with nearly as much 
 success as if I had been using snow. The back 
 compartment was a kitchen-garden and orchard. 
 
 Leaving the old Palace by the side gate which 
 opens upon one of the two streets that constitute 
 the town of Cettigne, we found ourselves opposite 
 to the new Palace lately built by the Prince — the 
 style of which I in no wise admire, though I do 
 not doubt it is comfortable enough inside ; but it 
 has no character whatever, and looks insignificant
 
 188 Tree of Justice. 
 
 when compared with the old Palace. If the money 
 spent on building the new had been judiciously- 
 laid out in adding to the old, a truly fine Palace 
 could have been erected, with all the old charac- 
 teristics preserved, which the eyes of the people, 
 as well as of travellers, would have had an historical 
 stamp as the abode of all the old Vladikas, those 
 ancient Prince-Bishops — Bishops of the Church 
 Militant— who for many years had valiantly de- 
 fended their country, their liberty, and their faith 
 against the unceasing attacks of the Infidels. 
 
 Opposite this gate, and just midway in the very 
 broad street between the old and the new Palace, 
 stands a large carob tree, with a stone bench of 
 roughly hewn blocks round its trunk, and here in 
 Summer from about nine o'clock every morning 
 the Prince sits f r some hours administering justice. 
 I often watched him with the greatest interest from 
 a window in the old Palace. It was like acting a 
 chapter in the Old Testament — Deborah judging 
 Israel under a palm tree, " between Ramah and 
 Beth-el in Mount Ephraim !" Beyond the " Tree 
 of Justice " one came to the new Palace, a homely 
 structure, as I said before, and of no pretence.
 
 Main Street. 189 
 
 At the gate two sentries of the Prince's body- 
 guard, in full Montenegrin costume, mount guard, 
 and are constantly relieved every hour, their 
 barracks being exactly opposite. The process of 
 relieving guard is very simple — two privates walk 
 out of the barracks with their long breechloaders 
 over their shoulders " a volonte,'' and take their 
 station on each side of the gateway of the Palace, 
 while the other two walk back into barracks, 
 and that is all. 
 
 We now turned our backs on the " Tree of Jus- 
 tice," and walked up the street, which is but short, 
 until we came to the main street which crosses it 
 at right angles. This main street is not paved, but 
 is wide, and the houses on each side, though 
 seemingly poor and wretched in the extreme in our 
 eyes, are, most probably, comfortable enough in 
 theirs ; and as they do not even possess a word in 
 their language to denote " comfort," what we would 
 consider such, would, perhaps, be only considered 
 by them an uneasy restraint. 
 
 Turning now to the right we walked to the 
 end of the street, where is the new hotel with 
 the post and telegraph office. The hotel, as I
 
 190 Pensions at tie Deoiioiselles. 
 
 previously said, was not yet opened, though the 
 building was completed, and when supplied with 
 beds, tables, and chairs will be a very creditable 
 affair, incomparably better than any hotel in 
 Dalmatia. Near the hotel, a little to the left, is 
 another modern institution, evincing in no small 
 degree the enlightened anxiety of the Prince for 
 the advancement of his country. It is a Pensionnat 
 de demoiselles for the education of the daughters of 
 the better classes, both of Montenegro and the 
 surrounding countries ; it can accommodate forty 
 pupils, and is superintended by a charming and 
 highly accomplished Russian lady, assisted by 
 efficient governesses. The charge being very small, 
 only j^20 per annum, it must be largely subsidized 
 by His Highness. 
 
 Being vacation time, I had not the satisfaction 
 of seeing any of the boarders, much to the regret 
 of Mademoiselle Pakievitch, who kindly showed 
 me all over the institution, which was admirably 
 neat and clean. She was anxious that I should 
 have heard some of the pupils speak English and 
 French. " I think you would have been both 
 pleased and surprised," said she. The majority
 
 Walh over a Plain. 191 
 
 spoke Ulvrian, Russian and German, while several 
 were proficient in addition with both English and 
 French, and one with Albanian also. The institution 
 is under the special patronage of the Empress of 
 Russia, who takes the greatest interest in it, and con- 
 stantly sends presents to it. 
 
 Keeping now a little to the right, and follow- 
 ing the path which leads to t/re town of Rieka, 
 we soon came to the foot of the crags which on 
 that side close in with an impassable barrier the 
 little plain of Cettigne. We now turned sharp 
 round and set our faces towards the town, as the 
 lengthening shadows warned us that the sun was 
 already setting behind the mountains which we had 
 traversed in the morning. The smooth plain 
 covered with short grass was delightful to walk 
 over, though one had to be careful of one's steps 
 owing to the many wells with which it is dotted 
 for the purpose of getting water for the cattle, 
 and which, quite level with the ground and without 
 the semblance of a parapet, might have swallowed 
 one up before one would have had time to see 
 them. 
 
 Right before us, standing a little to the left and
 
 192 Old Tower of Cett'ujne. 
 
 just beyond the old palace, could be seen in the 
 distance the ancient monastery which in old times 
 used to be occupied by the Archimandrite, in the 
 days when the Vladika used to inhabit the palace ; 
 but now that Church and State arc separated, it is 
 occupied by Monsignor Roganovitch, the Metro- 
 politan of Montenegro. 
 
 Just above it, perched upon a rock and standing 
 out in bold relief against the glowing sky, could 
 be seen the old tower of Cettigne, an ancient piece 
 of masonry which until three or four years ago 
 used to be constantly decorated with the heads of 
 Turks killed and decapitated in their several 
 skirmishes and forays. This barbarous custom 
 has now been abandoned, never to be resumed again 
 it is to be hoped, and the present Prince, further to 
 turn away the thoughts of the natives from the 
 barbarous habit of their forefathers, has caused a 
 belfry to be erected on the top of the tower wherein 
 is placed a large bell, which is only rung in cases 
 of great alarm to gather the tribes. The bell is 
 very heavy, and much ingenuity and labour were 
 required to transport it on men's backs from Cattaro 
 to Cettigne.
 
 To Bed. 
 
 193 
 
 By the time we got back to the Palace it 
 
 was dark, so wishing good night to my kind 
 
 friends I made a frugal supper and went to 
 bed.
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 INSECT POWDER OF MONTENEGRO— DESCRIPTION OF THE MO- 
 NASTERY—ENCAMPMENTS — FESTIVAL OF ST. PETER— A SAINT 
 BY THE WILL OF THE PEOPLE — PICTURESQUE SCENE — 
 BOSNIAN CAFE — THE NATIONAL INSTRUMENT — A TRAVELLED 
 DALMATIAN— TALL MONTENEGRINS. 
 
 AWOKE early the next morning, 
 having slept most luxuriously on a 
 spring mattress and totally unmolested 
 by fleas, thanks to the ample supply 
 ot flea-powder thoughtfully strewn by my at- 
 tendant, between the mattress and the under- 
 sheet. 
 
 The insect powder of Montenegro is celebrated, 
 you must know, in Eastern and Southern Europe,
 
 La VlgiUa del Santo. 195 
 
 and I can vouch for its excellence. It consists 
 simply in the small dried flower of some species of 
 Pyrethrum, which when wanted for use is ground 
 in a coffee-mill and strewed about the bed. The 
 plant is found abundantly all over Montenegro, 
 and owes its greater virtue to the fact of being 
 grown in very arid soil, untempered by the slightest 
 moisture, and exposed to scorching suns — every- 
 thing about it therefore is in the most concentrated 
 form, and hence its efficacy ; it is a very considerable 
 article of commerce, and is largely exported to 
 Russia and the Levant. 
 
 It was not therefore due to insect attacks that I 
 was so early disturbed from my slumbers on 
 the following morning ; still I was disturbed, and 
 that by the momentarily increasing hum of 
 many voices and general bustle of the thousands 
 who were flocking to Cettigne for the festival 
 which was to take place on the morrow ; but the 
 great day of the feast throughout the south of 
 Europe is invariably the day before the feast, " la 
 vigilia del Santo," as the wording goes. The day 
 of the feast itself one confesses, goes to mass, and 
 does the proper; all the fun and the rollicking 
 
 O 2
 
 19G Interesting Scene. 
 
 is generally the day before. So I got up, and 
 pushing open the outside green shutters which 
 secured my windows, I looked into the courtyard of 
 the Palace, and over the walls beyond into the little 
 plain, which was gradually filling with numberless 
 men, women, and children, some on horseback, 
 more on foot, but all gorgeously attired. 
 
 The sun was now getting high on the horizon, 
 and the scene before me was becoming more and 
 more animated and interesting. In the open space 
 under my window, within the high enclosure of 
 the Palace wall, men were busy picketing a dozen 
 horses, evidently from the costliness of their trap- 
 pings belonging to Chiefs and Woyvodes. While 
 under a group of carob trees, in one corner of 
 the enclosure, were spread several rugs on which 
 were sitting cross-legged some of the owners 
 of those quadrupeds, with their clumsy high-backed 
 saddles behind them, passively smoking their 
 chibouks while their attendants busied themselves 
 preparing coffee. 
 
 Close on my right and just beyond the old Palace 
 was the monastery, which, owing to the lateness of 
 the hour the evening before, I had been unable to
 
 The Monasterij. 197 
 
 examine. Like the old Palace it is a sort of semi- 
 fortified building, constructed more fo- safety than 
 for comfort. On the right hand, as the observer 
 looks at it in front, is the church, and next to it a 
 tall, square, and very modern tower erected to tne 
 memory of the Vladika Peter, who is buried on the 
 top of a somewhat difficult peak to the south-west 
 of Cettigne and about six miles distant. The body 
 of the monastery comes next, conspicuous by two 
 rows of arched openings placed one over the other, 
 and to the left of them again are the apartments 
 of the Metropolitan. The whole is surrounded by 
 a high wall, enclosing a primitive garden in which 
 are located a large number of beehives, (upwards of 
 a hundred). This wall is pierced by one large 
 gateway, roofed over and secured by a massive 
 door, in front of which is the circular-paved 
 thrashing floor, so characteristic of the East. Every 
 thing about the monastery is of the simplest and 
 rudest construction, and the church is utterly una- 
 dorned, not from choice, I am assured, but from 
 necessity. 
 
 In the monastery itself are many shady corners 
 that would well repay a few hours spent in trans-
 
 198 Festival of St. Peter. 
 
 ferring them to one's portfolio, and just at the 
 entrance inside the b.uilding, is a most extraordinary 
 chasm in the rock, through which a piercing cold 
 wind is constantly blowing, coldest when the 
 weather is hottest ; and so intense is the cold in 
 that opening that it is used in Summer as an 
 ice-house for the cooling of wine and the preserving 
 of food. This phenomenon has never been satis- 
 factorily explained, because it is not only that the 
 cavity is cold, but a strong sharp cutting wind 
 rushes out of it. 1 shall not attempt to account for 
 it, but will leave it as a problem for sharper wits 
 thaii mine to solve. 
 
 As the day waxed older the number of arrivals 
 increased on the plain of Cettigne, till by eight 
 o'clock in the morning it was dotted all over 
 with picketed horses and temporary encampments 
 of all sorts. Having had my simple breakfast of 
 coffee, milk, and toast without butter — which is 
 quite unknown there though cream is plentiful — 
 but accompanied by a good plate of Albanian figs, 
 I went out with Pero Pejovich, who came to fetch 
 me to visit the fair. For this festival of St. Peter 
 offers a double stimulus to the inhabitants of the
 
 A Popular Saint. 199 
 
 surrounding country for a visit to Cettigne — a 
 religious ceremony and a considerable fair. And it 
 may be right for me to observe that this St. 
 Peter, Patron of Montenegro, in whose honour 
 this great gathering annually takes place, is a saint 
 sui generis — indeed I was on the point of saying, 
 when I detected and checked myself, that he was 
 a saint exfra palum ecclesi^ ; for he is neither St. 
 Peter the Apostle, nor St. Peter the Martyr, nor 
 St. Peter the Hermit, nor even St. Peter Igneus, 
 who in a fit of zeal for the maintenance of the 
 laws relating to the temporalities of the church, 
 walked through the flames at Settimo in the 
 eleventh century, to establish a case of simony 
 against another Peter, one Peter of Pavia, then 
 Bishop of Florence ; nor any other canonical St. 
 Peter I ever heard of, but simply St. Peter of 
 Montenegro, the old Vladika Peter I., Prince- 
 Bishop of Montenegro, not yet canonized by any 
 ecclesiastical authority or other licensing body, as I 
 was assured, but simply a saint in virtue of the will of 
 the people, the Plebiscite of Montenegro, who insisted 
 autoritate nostra on having him for their patron 
 saint. He probably deserved to be canonized just as
 
 200 Picturesque Scene. 
 
 well, and perhaps better than many another saint, 
 and if history tells truth, certainly better than his 
 namesake, the so-called Peter the Martyr, for he 
 wisely, mildly, and virtuously ruled in Montenegro 
 for fifty- three years, viz., from 1777 to 1830, and 
 the mountaineers are fully justified in reverencing 
 his memory. 
 
 Passing my arm through that of Pero Pejovich, 
 who seemed to know and be known of everyone, 
 I began my expedition through a crowd of men, 
 women and children, that every moment grew 
 denser and denser. It was the most picturesque 
 scene that could be imagined; all the neighbouring 
 and surrounding countries had sent their contri- 
 butions to the fair — Bosnians, Servians, Herzego- 
 vinians, Morlacks, Dalmatians, Albanians, Rou- 
 melians, Turks, Greeks, Croats, Italians, &c. ; but 
 conspicuous among them all for height of stature 
 and nobility of countenance were the Monte- 
 negrins themselves. I think that, even independent 
 of their costume, I could have always singled 
 them out by their ruddy though sunburnt com- 
 plexions, grey or blue eyes, and open honest 
 countenances.
 
 Bosnian Cafe. 201 
 
 We went to a booth where arms were sold, 
 and I was astounded at the number, variety, and 
 richness of the weapons that were not only dis- 
 played, but were actually sold. They seemed to 
 me dear. I should have much liked to purchase 
 a handsome yataghan with silver hilt and in a 
 sheath of repousse silver. It was a very handsome 
 weapon, and was made by a celebrated artificer of 
 Skodra, but the price was sixteen Napoleons, which 
 was more than I liked to give, and I suspect I could 
 get one just like it in Tichborne Street for half the 
 money. 
 
 From the armourer we went to a tailor's booth, 
 where piles of costumes of different nationalities 
 were exposed for sale ; Morlack suits, Albanian 
 suits, and Montenegrin suits, some of cloth and 
 some of velvet, but all more or less embroidered 
 in gold, and some literally overladen with plates 
 of silver gilt. From thence we went to a Bosnian 
 cafe of the most primitive kind ; a couple of large 
 blankets stretched over a few poles made a 
 pretence of shelter, and on the ground were 
 a few Turkish rugs on which we squatted, while 
 a very ugly and dirty gipsy-looking woman was
 
 202 The GiizJa. 
 
 boiling coffee outside over a small fire of sticks 
 contrived between two stones ; nothing could be 
 more primitive. So we sat and smoked, and in 
 due time drank our coffee, which was simply 
 abominable. I remember it was, though I was 
 not minding it much, being occupied at the time 
 with listening to a man performing on the national 
 instrument, the guzia (pronounced goozla), whilst 
 a girl was singing a low, monotonous, plaintive 
 air. 
 
 The giizia is not an instrument which offers 
 much scope to the performer ; it is simply a very 
 primitive fiddle, with only one string, played upon 
 with an equally primitive bow ; still it was sur- 
 prising the amount of harmony the man contrived 
 to scrape out of it. The song, as Pero Pejovich 
 told me, was all about the old story, love and 
 war, while the music, as is almost always the 
 case among barbarous nations, was in a minor 
 key. 
 
 Having paid for our coffee and thrown a 
 few paras to the minstrels, we sallied forth 
 again. 
 
 " And now, friend Pero," I said, " I should
 
 A Travelled Dalmatian. 203 
 
 like to see some of your Montenegrin beauties. I 
 have seen lots of fine men this morning ; but as to 
 the women, friend Pero, they are a caution. 
 I never saw so many ugly ones congregated to- 
 gether."' 
 
 My conductor smiled, shrugged his shoulders, 
 and looked me in the face ; he did not know exactly 
 whether he ought not to be angry. However, his 
 habitual good-humour prevailed, and with a loud 
 laugh, he said: 
 
 " j^vete ragione, son brutte come il Demonio. But 
 wait, only wait till you see the Princess; she is a 
 pure Montenegrina, and beautiful enough for the 
 whole nation." And he spoke truth ! 
 
 We now wandered away again towards a sort 
 of native inn or khan, where he said we should get 
 some good Vienna beer to wash away the taste 
 of that abominable coffee. As we were passing 
 some booths, where a variety of cheap Manchester 
 goods were being displayed with some English Delft 
 ware of the very commonest description, I was 
 hailed with a '' How d'ye do, stranger ?" from a 
 dapper, wide-awake-looking little man, who carre 
 out and spoke such excellent English that I took
 
 204 Trade. 
 
 him to be a Briton or an American ; but he was 
 neither; he was a Dalmatian from Sebenico, who 
 had been a great deal in England and America, 
 and spoke English as fluently as his native Illyrian. 
 I had a long chat with him, and asked him how trade 
 was, and if he was doing well. 
 
 " No," he replied ; " they don't know what trade 
 is in these countries, they have too many restrictions; 
 and yet," said he, " you won't go into the poorest 
 cabin that you won't find one of these," handing 
 me a wretched sample of English pottery with a 
 vile brown pattern on it ; " such is their preference 
 for everything of English make." 
 
 . Here Pero reminded me of the beer we had to 
 drink, and that the time was drawing 'near when I 
 was to present myself at the Palace for my audience. 
 So we went off to the khan, where, having refreshed 
 ourselves with some of Vienna's best, with a lump of 
 virgin snow in it, I bid my guide good morning, 
 and returned to the old Palace ; when, having 
 dressed myself, I crossed over to the new one to pay 
 my respects to the Prince according to the orders 
 received the day before. 
 
 Having penetrated through the outer gate, where
 
 The Princess Henchman. 205 
 
 the guards, I thought, looked rather scowlingly 
 on my strange attire — viz., a dark blue frock 
 coat, light grey trousers, and patent leather boots, 
 the whole topped with my Indian quilted helmet — 
 I ascended to the hall door by half a dozen steps, 
 where I was met by the Prince's own henchman, a 
 brother of the Commandant of the Grahovo. He 
 was yet taller than his brother, and must have 
 been at least six feet eight inches. I do not say this 
 quite by guess-work, though I did not actually 
 measure him ; but on a subsequent occasion I did 
 measure an immense Montenegrin, and found him 
 six feet seven inches without heels, and the hench- 
 man was decidedly taller than he. 
 
 Well, pour revenir a nos moutons^ I followed my 
 Goliath into the hall, which is small and low, 
 terminating in a double staircase, that bending 
 round from each side joins again in the middle to 
 form but one flight, at the top of which I found 
 myself in a vestibule with two more guards on duty, 
 and from that I was ushered into a fine large and 
 well proportioned room, handsomely furnished in 
 Viennese style, and hung all round with good 
 portraits of the Prince's father, the celebrated
 
 206 ' Intervieiv iv'itli the Prince. 
 
 Mirko, the Emperor and Empress of Russia, the 
 Emperor and Empress of Austria, and many 
 others. 
 
 Rooms open right and left off this. I was 
 conducted into a smaller room to the right, where, 
 after waiting for only a few seconds, the Prince 
 came in. He addressed me in French, congratulat- 
 ing me on my courage for having ventured so far 
 into his country, not on account of the difficulty 
 of the road, " for all English are good moun- 
 taineers," but from the bad name the country has in 
 Europe. 
 
 " Don't you know," said he, laughing, " que nous 
 sommes des ogres, et que nous mangeons les 
 enfans ; however, you shall try how we cook them 
 if you will dine here to-night at eight'." 
 
 I thanked His Highness for his kindness, adding 
 that I had never heard of their cannibal propensities, 
 but in any case I should be happy to eat anything 
 His Highness also would eat, and making my bow 
 backed out of the saloon. 
 
 I then left my card for the Russian Consul, who 
 was staying at the Palace, and afterwards went to pay 
 the same compliment to Mr. Nico Matanovich, aide-
 
 Return to my Quarters. 207 
 
 de-camp to the Prince; after which I returned to my 
 quarters, to convert into a luncheon the repast which 
 otherwise would have served for a dinner, but for 
 the hospitality of His Highness.
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 A POLYGLOT JUMBLE— WAR CUSTOMS OF THE MONTENEGRINS 
 — DEATH IN BATTLE — FORAYS FOR THE PLUNDER OF CATTLE 
 — EQUIPAGE OF A MONTENEGRIN SOLDIER — PILLAGE — 
 MANNER OF FIGHTING — TACTICS — SIGNAL CRIES — ON BOARD 
 SHIP — DECAPITATION OF WOUNDED PRISONERS. 
 
 NOW discovered what a terrible 
 nuisance it is to know only three or 
 four languages, especially when one 
 finds oneself in a country the language 
 of which is a complete mystery. The attendant 
 I had, who had been so thoughtfully provided 
 for me by Mr. Matanovich, professed to 
 speak Italian, and he did m fact know a few 
 Italian words, but in his general conversation
 
 Polyglot Jamhle. 209 
 
 with me, as was subsequently discovered and ex- 
 plained to me by Pero Pejovich, the language in 
 which he spoke consisted pretty much of the follow- 
 ing happy mixture : six-tenths of Montenegrin, 
 three-tenths of Albanian and Turkish, with one- 
 tenth Italian! With this polyglot jumble we got 
 on fairly well, as far as hot water, coffee, pipe, 
 tobacco, pranzo ; and he learned to appreciate 
 eventually the American word " skedaddle," but 
 when our necessities required further intercourse, 
 it was perfectly hopeless — language was utterly 
 useless, and gesticulation the only chance of making 
 oneself understood. But he was a willing poor 
 beggar, and not more dishonest than the majority 
 of his fellows. He had a wholesome terror of the 
 Prince's rigorous punishment of theft. " Niente 
 ladri in Montenegro^'' he used to say, " Principe 
 terrible^'' turning up his eyes and distorting his 
 countenance to a fearful degree. 
 
 Now whilst my attendant is preparing and setting 
 out my lunch, I may as well entertain my reader 
 with an account of the customs in war, and mode 
 of fighting of the Montenegrins, by the pen of 
 M. Broniewsky, which is so graphic, and accords 
 
 p
 
 210 War Customs of 
 
 so literally with what the Commandant Pero 
 Pejovich related to me at different times, that I 
 cannot think I could do better than transcribe 
 it. 
 
 " A Montenegrin is always armed, and carries 
 about during his. most peaceful occupation a rifle 
 (many of them now have breechloaders), pistol, or 
 yataghan, and a cartouche-box. The Montenegrins 
 spend their leisure time in firing at a target, and 
 are accustomed to this exercise from their boyish 
 years. Being inured to hardships and privations, 
 they perform without fatigue, and in high spirits, 
 very long and forced marches. They climb the 
 steepest rocks with great facility, and bear with 
 the greatest patience hunger, thirst, and every 
 kind of privation. When the enemy is defeated 
 and retiring, they pursue him with such rapidity 
 that they supply the want of cavalry, which it 
 is impossible to employ in their mountainous 
 country. 
 
 " Inhabiting mountains which present, at every 
 step, passes where a handful of brave men may 
 arrest the progress of an army, they are not 
 afraid of a surprise, particularly as they have
 
 The Montenegrins. 211 
 
 on their frontier a constant guard, and the whole 
 of their force can be collected within twenty- 
 four hours upon the threatened point. When 
 the enemy is in great force, they burn their 
 villages, devastate their fields, and after hav- 
 ing enticed him into the mountains, they sur- 
 round and attack him in the most desperate 
 manner. 
 
 " When the country is in danger, the Montenegrins 
 forget all personal feelings of private advantage and 
 enmity. They obey the orders of their chief, and 
 like gallant Republicans, they consider it a happi- 
 ness and a grace of God to die in battle. It is in 
 such a case that they appear as real warriors ; but 
 beyond the limits of their country, they are savage 
 barbarians, who destroy everything with fire and 
 sword. 
 
 " Their ideas about war are entirely different from 
 those adopted by civilized nations. They cut off 
 the heads of those enemies whom they take with 
 arms in their hands, and spare only those who 
 surrender before the battle. The property they take 
 from the enemy is considered by them as their own, 
 and as a reward of courage. They literally defend 
 
 P 2
 
 212 Treatment of Prisoners. 
 
 themselves to the last extremity ; a Montenegrin 
 never craves for mercy ; and whenever one of them 
 is severely wounded, and it is impossible to save 
 him from the enemy, his own comrades cut off his 
 head. When at the attack of Clobuk, a little 
 detachment of our troops was obliged to retreat, 
 an officer of stout-make and no longer young fell 
 on the ground from exhaustion. A Montenegrin 
 perceiving it (the Montenegrins were fighting with 
 the Russians against the French) ran immediately to 
 him, and having drawn his yataghan, said ' You 
 are very brave and must wish that I should cut off 
 your head ; say a prayer and make a sign of the 
 cross.' The officer horrified at the proposition 
 made an effort to rise, and rejoined his com- 
 rades with the assistance of the friendly Montene- 
 grin. 
 
 " They consider all those taken by the enemy as 
 killed. They carry out of the battle their wounded 
 comrades on their shoulders ; and be it said to their 
 honour they acted in the same manner by our 
 officers and soldiers. 
 
 " Like the Circassians, they are constantly making 
 forays in small parties, for the plunder of cattle,
 
 Montenegrins on the March. 213 
 
 and consider such expeditions as feats of chivalry, 
 (jast as the Scotch Highlanders one hundred years 
 ago). Being safe in their habitations, where 
 nobody dares to molest them, they continue their 
 depredations with impunity, disregarding the threats 
 of the Divan, and the hatred of their neighbours. 
 Arms, a small loaf of bread, a cheese, some garlic, 
 a little brandy, an old garment, and two pair of 
 sandals, made of raw hide, form all the equipage of 
 a Montenegrin. On the march they do not seek 
 any shelter from rain or cold. In rainy weather, 
 the Montenegrin wraps up his head in his strooka, 
 lies down on the ground, and sleeps very 
 comfortably. Three or four hours' repose are 
 quite sufficient for his rest, and the remainder 
 of his time is occupied in constant exertion. 
 
 " It is impossible to retain them in the reserve ; 
 and it seems they cannot calmly bear the view of 
 the enemy. When they have expended all their 
 cartouches, they humbly request every officer they 
 meet with to give them some, and as soon as they 
 have received them, they run headlong into the 
 further line. When there is no enemy in sight, 
 they sing and dance, and go on pillaging, in which
 
 214 Manner of Flglding. 
 
 we must give them the credit of being perfect 
 masters ; although they are not acquainted with 
 the high sounding names of contribution, requisi- 
 tion, forced loan, &c., &c. They call pillage, 
 simply ^ pillage,' and have no hesitation in confess- 
 ing it. 
 
 "Their usual manner of fighting is as follows : If 
 they are in great force, they conceal themselves in 
 ravines, and send out only a small number of 
 shooters, who by retreating lead the enemy into 
 the ambush ; here, after having surrounded him, 
 they attack him, usually preferring on such occa- 
 sions swords to fire-arms ; because they rely 
 on their personal strength and bravery, in which 
 they generally have the advantage over their 
 enemies. When their numbers are inferior, they 
 choose some advantageous position on high rocks, 
 where pronouncing every kind of abuse against 
 their enemies, they challenge them to combat. 
 Their attacks are mostly made during the night, 
 because their principal system is surprise. 
 
 " However small their force may be, they always 
 try to wear out the enemy by constantly harassing 
 him. The best French voltigeurs in the advanced
 
 Tactics of the Montenegrins. 215 
 
 posts were always destroyed by them ; and the 
 enemy's generals found it more advantageous to 
 remain under cover of their cannon, of which the 
 Montenegrins were not at all fond. However, 
 they soon became accustomed to them, and sup- 
 ported by our rifles, they bravely mounted the 
 batteries. 
 
 " The tactics of Montenegrins are confined to 
 being skilful marksmen .... In a pitched battle 
 their movements can be ascertained only by the 
 direction of their standards. They have certain 
 signal cries, which are uttered when they are to 
 join in a compact body for attacking the weaker 
 points of the enemy. As soon as such a signal 
 is given, they rush furiously onwards, break 
 into the squares, and at all events create a deal 
 of disorder in the enemy's ranks. It was a terrible 
 spectacle to see the Montenegrins rushing forward, 
 with heads of slaughtered enemies suspended 
 from their necks and shoulders, and uttering savage 
 yells .... 
 
 " The Russian commander-in-chief had much 
 difficulty in persuading them not to cut off the 
 heads of their prisoners. He finally succeeded in
 
 216 Montenegrins at Sea. 
 
 this (chiefly by paying them a ducat for every 
 prisoner) but what he had more difficulty, with the 
 assistance of the Vladika, in persuading them to do, 
 was to embark for an expedition on board of ship 
 — a thing which they had never done before. 
 
 " Notwithstanding that they were treated with the 
 greatest kindness, they proved very troublesome 
 guests. Whenever the captains invited their chiefs 
 to breakfast, they all entered the cabin, and having 
 observed that more dishes were served to the 
 officers than to common sailors, they wanted to 
 have a similar fare. When the Fortress of Curzola 
 was taken the feast of Easter was approaching ; they 
 gave the captain no repose, entreating him to 
 return to Cattaro ; but when it was explained to 
 them that the vessel could not advance against; 
 the wind, they fell into great despondency. 
 
 " When at last the ship approached the entrance 
 of Boccha di Cattaro and they caught a sight of 
 their own black mountains, they uttered joycus 
 exclamations, and began to sing and dance. On 
 taking leave they affectionately embraced the captain 
 and the officers, and invited those to whom they 
 had taken a liking to pay them a visit. But when
 
 Crud Giistowy. 217 
 
 the sailors told them they could not leave the ship 
 without the permission of their superiors, they 
 were much astonished, and said, ' If you like 
 to do a thing, what right has another to forbid 
 you r 
 
 Does not the foregoing read like a chapter in 
 " Waverley," or in "Rob Roy?" but though it is 
 now a good many years since M. Broniewski wrote 
 the foregoing, the Montenegrin is still much the 
 same, with the exception of cutting off the heads 
 of those killed in battle, which he has given up, 
 principally, I believe, because he has had no fighting 
 of late. But at the period of the last attempted 
 invasion of Montenegro on the Grahovo side, by 
 the Turks in, I think, 1862, heads were cut off 
 as freely as ever, and were liberally paid for by 
 the chieftains ; the only difference was that instead 
 of taking them to Cettigne to hang in festoons 
 upon the round tower at the back of the monastery, 
 they were allowed to rot on the battle-field among 
 the rocks of the Grahovo where scores of them are 
 to be seen lying about to this day.
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 battle between turks and montenegrins— addeess of 
 princ;e mirko— his personal appearance and character 
 — the projects of prince danielo— prince nicholas i. 
 — sport in montenegro— interview with the prince 
 and princess — national costume — splendid illumina- 
 TION. 
 
 REGRET more than I can express 
 ^y having lost some interesthig notes of 
 several conversations I had with the 
 Commandant Pedro Pejovich on the 
 subject of the campaign of 1864 (?); all the more 
 as they were most graphically told me by him, who 
 had been in the thick of the fight, and carried in 
 his body, in the shape of severe wounds, proofs
 
 Battle between Tarhs and Montenegrins. 219 
 
 of the active part he had borne in that campaign. 
 One only I partially remember still, sufficiently 
 well to venture to retail. 
 
 The Turks, apparently, were attacking the Mon- 
 tenegrins from the Herzegovina in the north of 
 Montenegro. They numbered about twelve thou- 
 sand men, together with a good force of Artillery ; 
 while the Montenegrins collected to oppose them 
 were not more than two thousand ; but whilst the 
 Turks were in the plain fully exposed in sight 
 of the Montenegrins, these sturdy mountaineers, 
 finding covert behind each rock and bramble bush, 
 were able to pick off the Turks with considerable 
 effect. Still the disparity of force was too great, 
 and at the end of the second day's fighting, although 
 the Turks had not been able to make any impres- 
 sion on the position held by the Montenegrins, 
 still the number of those killed and wounded bore 
 a very large proportion to their numbers. At 
 sunset the fight being over for the time, and sen- 
 tries having been posted bv the mountaineers as 
 far forward as practicable to watch the Ottoman 
 camp. Prince Mirko, father of the present Prince
 
 220 Speech of Prince Mirko. 
 
 of Montenegro, then in command of the Monte- 
 negrins, summoned all the chiefs to a brief council 
 of war, and spoke thus : 
 
 " Two days we have been fighting the infidels, 
 and the only result has been the losses we have 
 sustained in killed and wounded. Another day of 
 such fighting will leave us so crippled that the 
 accursed Turks will walk over us into our homes 
 and villages. There is but one plan which offers 
 any hope, but if you adopt it and place faith in 
 me, I promise you a complete victory before to- 
 morrow's sun shall gild the tops of yonder 
 mountains. To-morrow morning, one hour" before 
 daylight, be all ready to follow me, leave behind 
 your rifles and ammunition, and follow me softly 
 and stealthily, making no noise ; so we shall pass 
 the Turkish advanced sentries without their noticing 
 us, and when sufficiently near I will call my cry, 
 and then let you all rush forward with me, trust- 
 ing solely to your yataghans, and give no 
 quarter." 
 
 This was carried out to the letter, and succeeded 
 perfectly. The Turks, never imagining they would 
 be attacked, kept a bad look-out. The Montene-
 
 Frince Mirlo. 221 
 
 grins, led on by the intrepid Mirko, rushed on the 
 Turkish batteries, cutting the gunners' heads off, 
 and having spiked the cannons attacked the 
 remainder of the army with such impetuosity 
 that they fled from the field in the utmost dis- 
 order. 
 
 This was the last attack of the Turks against 
 Montenegro, and I don't think they will ever try 
 it again. Prince Mirko was dead before my visit 
 to this country. I cannot therefore give any 
 description of him personally, but from all I heard 
 he must have been a very remarkable man in 
 every way. Though small in stature and slight, 
 contrary to the general build of the Montenegrins, 
 who are mostly all very tall and powerful men, 
 he had immense influence over the mountain-tribes ; 
 owing to his well known sagacity and his fierce 
 courage, wherever Mirko would lead, the whole 
 of Montenegro would follow. He had the eye of 
 an eagle, and strength of will and determination 
 are portrayed in every line of his face, as I have 
 observed in his portrait which hangs in the Palace 
 of Montenegro, as well as the photograph I have 
 seen of him. But he was wise also ; when Prince
 
 222 "* Generosity of Prince Mirlco. 
 
 Danielo (the predecessor of the present ruler) died 
 by the hand of an assasshi at Cattaro, his widow, 
 the Princess Darinka, at once caused the present 
 Prince, Nicholas I. (nephew of the murdered 
 Danielo) to be proclaimed sovereign, passing over 
 his father Mirko, who, owing to the great youth 
 of his son, might have expected and claimed the 
 succession ; but as I said above, Mirko was wise 
 as well as valorous. He knew that from his own 
 warlike tendencies, how much soever he might be 
 acceptable to his own mountaineers, his elevation to 
 be ruler of Tchernagora would be displeasing to 
 most of his neighbours in Austria, Servia, and 
 Turkey. He therefore at once consented to his 
 son's promotion, "and generously was the first 
 in Montenegro to do homage to the young 
 Prince. 
 
 Up to the year 1850, when Prince Danielo 
 succeeded to the throne of Montenegro, the country 
 had always been ruled by a Prince-Bishop, 
 styled the Vladika. This dignitary, generally, if 
 not always, nominated his own successor in the 
 person of a nephew or some other near relative, 
 who, on the death of the Vladika at once took
 
 Prince Banielo. 22 
 
 zzo 
 
 holy orders and became in his turn Prince- 
 Bishop. 
 
 Danielo, not wishing to give up the happiness 
 of home and married life, and also perhaps with 
 the hope of founding a d ynasty of his own in 
 Montenegro, which in the course of time might, by 
 extension and the absorption of other principalities, 
 become an important kingdom, repaired to St. 
 Petersburgh on the death of the Vladika Peter II., 
 his uncle, and there obtained the full consent of 
 the Emperor Nicholas to his effecting a division 
 between Church and State. On his return journey 
 to Cettigne he married at Trieste the Princess 
 Darinka, hoping to have founded a line of princes 
 to succeed him. His hopes however were destined 
 to be blighted. Darinka had no children, and 
 after reigning eight years, he was murdered at 
 Cattaro as I have related above. 
 
 The young Prince, (Nicholas I.) who had 
 already been betrothed almost in infancy, as is 
 the custom among the upper classes in that 
 country to a relation of his own, daughter of one 
 of the principal Voyvodes in Montenegro, followed 
 his studies under special direction in the Palace
 
 224 Frince Nicliolas. 
 
 of his ancestors ; till one day the late Emperor 
 Napoleon III., for reasons of his own, proposed to 
 have the young Prince sent to Paris, there to be 
 educated under his own eye'; and the offer having 
 been accepted, a French man-of-war without loss 
 of time steamed into the Gulf of Cattaro and 
 carried away the young Prince, together with two 
 companions of his own age, sons of two of the 
 principal Voyvodes of the country. Whatever care 
 was bestowed upon the Prince's education, he 
 amply profited by it ; he is an excellent French and 
 Italian, as well as German and Russian scholar. 
 He is exceptionally well informed, and on 'a great 
 variety of subjects ; and voracious to a degree 
 for more information, especially concerning English 
 laws, customs, and manners, in all of which he 
 takes the greatest interest, and is most anxious 
 that Englishmen should visit his country. He was 
 good enough to have me repeatedly at his house 
 and at his hospitable board, and he never omitted to 
 repeat to me. 
 
 " I shall always be glad to see English gentle- 
 men in my country ; tell them, when you go back, 
 that if they are fond of shooting, they shall have
 
 The Prince. 225 
 
 their choice of game, from an eagle to a blackbird, 
 and from a bear to a squirrel ; if they prefer 
 fishing, I promise them trout such as they have 
 never dreamt of,* and they shall have every 
 assistance that I can afford them in the way 
 of tents to camp out, and men to guide and help 
 them." 
 
 In appearance, the Prince is tall and remarkably 
 handsome ; his hair is black, he wears both beard 
 and moustachios, contrary to the fashion of his 
 country, where only the latter are worn, often of 
 immense size and length. With a commanding 
 appearance, he still has a most benevolent expression 
 of countenance, due to the softness of a very fine 
 pair of eyes, and his manners are most capti- 
 
 * I was informed at Cettigne that trout were caught in the Mor- 
 atcha of fifty or sixty pounds weight ; not sahnon, for the Moratcha 
 does not go to the sea, and if it did go, there are no salmon in the 
 Adriatic. Thinking it must be a joke, I asked several persons of 
 standing, who ail assured me that it was perfectly true. I regret that 
 being unprovided with tackle, in addition to being short of time, I 
 was unable to test the accuracy of these assertions, mainly in reference 
 to my readers, because as to myself I have no reason whatever to doubt 
 the truth, accuracy, and bona-fides of my informants ; I fully accept 
 what I heard from them, especially from my previous knowledge of 
 the amazing number and size of the trout in the Servian rivers. 
 
 Q
 
 226 The Frincess. 
 
 vating. He is very dignified, but at the same 
 time most kind, without being in the least 
 patronizing, and I was told by those who knew 
 him best that he has a most equable temper, 
 and that an angry word seldom was heard from 
 him. 
 
 I had been careful before leaving the Palace 
 to set my watch exactly to their time, so as to 
 ensure my punctuality in the evening ; and at 
 eight p.m. to the minute, I found myself in the 
 saloon of the Palace. The Russian Consul was 
 there already ; he was showing me the different 
 portraits which hung round it, when the Prince 
 walked in, in full Montenegrin costume, but 
 without any ceremony ; and a few minutes after 
 a door was thrown open from the opposite side, 
 when in walked the Princess, accompanied by the 
 widow of Prince Mirko and attended by her 
 lady-in-waiting. Mademoiselle Neukomm, all in 
 full native costume. 
 
 Pero Pejovich had so often extolled the beauty 
 of the Princess, that I was quite prepared to be 
 disappointed, as is almost always the case, for 
 anticipation seems invariably to exaggerate the
 
 The Dinner. 227 
 
 reality ; but on this occasion it was just the reverse. 
 I don't think I ever saw a more beautiful creature 
 than the lady to whom I was then introduced ; 
 tall, pale, neither thin nor stout, but beautifully 
 formed, and with exquisite hands and arms. She 
 wore a diamond ornament on her head, half hidden 
 by the masses of black hair among which it was 
 nestled, and though it shone at times like a star 
 from among a mass of stormy clouds, it could 
 not subdue the light which shone from her glorious 
 dark eyes. 
 
 Dinner was instantly announced, and we pro- 
 ceeded to the dining-hall, a room of good size 
 and well-furnished. The dinner, a German one, 
 was good, the wines better. The attendance con- 
 sisted of two men in black and four in native 
 costume. The Princess, who speaks French fluently, 
 did the honours with most winning grace; and 
 the Prince, by his affability, at once put every 
 one at his ease. At dinner I sat on his left, his 
 mother being on his right, with the Russian 
 Consul vis-a-vis, principally, I suppose, to faci- 
 litate her enjoyment of the conversation, as she 
 speaks only Slave. 
 
 o 2
 
 228 Anxidij for Knowledge. 
 
 During the repast His Highness constantly- 
 asked me questions, sometimes about my impres- 
 sions of Montenegro, which were easily enough 
 answered, as I had nothing to recount of myself 
 but enjoyment since I had entered his territory, 
 having met with nothing but the most unbounded 
 kindness and hospitality. But in his anxiety for 
 knowledge, he often put questions which I found 
 it difficult enough to reply to, and sometimes 
 questions which I could not answer at all. Having 
 spoken with admiration of the gorgeous costume 
 of -the Montenegrins, and how it set off their fine 
 figures, he replied : 
 
 " Yes, it is very fine ; but I should be delighted 
 to abolish it, if it were possible ; they spend a great 
 deal too much money on it." 
 
 Being simply horrified at the idea of doing 
 away with national dress, I could not avoid ex- 
 pressing myself unreservedly, and I said at once 
 that depriving a country of its costume would be 
 simply to destroy it. 
 
 "Ah!" replied the Prince sharply, "you look 
 upon us only from a picturesque point of view ; 
 in fact, you would like to keep us here like
 
 National Costume. 229 
 
 a sort of menagerie of wild beasts, to come 
 and look at us occasionally for your amuse- 
 ment." 
 
 The Prince was almost angry ; but fortunately 
 I had an analogous example to place before him, 
 in our own Scottish Highlanders, who cling to 
 their costume with such tenacity. I told him of 
 our Highlanders, of our splendid Highland regi- 
 ments, of how our Scottish nobility held by the 
 national dress, and of how our precious Queen 
 dressed all her boys in Highland costume ; and 
 yet we did not go to look at them as we would 
 go to look at wild beasts in a zoological garden, 
 but we regarded it with admiration, as an ancient 
 national costume, associated in our minds with 
 devoted loyalty, stirring times, and valiant deeds ; 
 as their own costume was also, which, I trusted, 
 I should never live to see exchanged for a bad 
 imitation of the present universally adopted French 
 fashion, ending by saying that I was convinced 
 that the supplanting of national costumes with 
 imitations taken from our neighbours, was decidedly 
 a backward step in civilization. 
 
 He questioned me very closely upon the law of
 
 230 The Prince's Band. 
 
 primogeniture and entail in our country, and could 
 not understand how such a law did not produce 
 des jalousies terribles^ et d'autres inconvenances, I 
 endeavoured to explain to him the present law of 
 English entail, and how it differed from the ancient 
 Roman law of jidei-commis ^ which still obtains in 
 Scotland, where entails are for ever. Still he did 
 not like our system of primogeniture, where the 
 eldest son, in many instances, has ^100,000 per 
 annum, and all the other children ^/^ 10,000 each, 
 representing about _;r400 a year. He thought it 
 terribly unfair ; indeed he could not understand 
 how they quietly submitted to it at all ; a'nd so we 
 got through our dinner most agreeably without 
 the least gene^ while the Prince's band played some 
 excellent music outside, under the window. This 
 band consisted entirely of Montenegrin lads, some 
 quite young, and considering the short time they 
 had been learning their new profession, was won- 
 derfully good. The bandmaster was from Prague, 
 an excellent musician, and as he was a Czchech, 
 he spoke a language very similar to Monte- 
 negrin, which contributed not a little to his 
 success.
 
 Brilliant Illumination. 231 
 
 Having left the dining-room in company with 
 the ladies, we all adjourned to the saloon, and 
 from it to the terrace in front of the Palace, where 
 the Prince having lit a cigarette, offered some to 
 me and Mr. Yonin. As I hesitated to light mine, 
 after having taken one, the Princess, who imme- 
 diately guessed that my hesitation was owing to 
 her being present, at once most kindly came for- 
 ward and requested me to smoke ''^ de suited' &c. 
 I therefore lit my cigarette at once, saying with a 
 deep bow that 1 dared not disobey her commands. 
 She then bid me watch, as presently a change 
 would suddenly take place in the aspect of the 
 scene. 
 
 It was now quite dark, when suddenly a cannon 
 was fired, and simultaneously, as if by magic, every 
 window in the town, in the Palace opposite, in the 
 monastery, in the terrace, and at every point where 
 a candle could be stuck, was filled with lights, while 
 the band played the grand Russian National Hymn, 
 and the people shouted with all the power of their 
 lungs, firing off their pistols in the air in every 
 direction. 
 
 The illumination was so instantaneous that
 
 232 English Manners and Customs. 
 
 the effect was charming, and coupled with the 
 music, the enthusiastic cheering, and the boom- 
 ing of the cannon, which kept up a sort of 
 " contrabasso " accompaniment to the whole, all 
 contributed to produce a coup de seine never to 
 be forgotten. 
 
 We now all withdrew to the drawing-room 
 for coffee and tea, a la Russe^ without cream and 
 with a slice of lemon. I was not sorry to leave 
 the balcony, for that firing of pistols in the 
 air is not so innocent a pastime as might be 
 imagined, as no Montenegrin ever dreams of 
 loading his weapons with anything else than ball- 
 cartridge. 
 
 The Prince again resumed his conversation with 
 me about English customs and manners. He 
 said, " I am told that in London one policeman, 
 unarmed, can control a mob, while in Paris it is 
 very different, as nothing short of loaded muskets 
 and bayonets will do for the French." 
 
 I answered him that English mobs could be 
 troublesome too, but that, generally speaking, 
 owing to our constitutional respect for the majesty 
 of the law, we came to look upon that solitary
 
 The LaiD of Habeas Goiyus. 233 
 
 unarmed policeman as an impersonation of it, and 
 as such he was always sure of the active assistance 
 of all respectable citizens in the execution of his 
 duty. 
 
 He then began to question me about the British 
 constitution, and I never felt more posed. Irish 
 mother-wit, however, came to the rescue, and I 
 said, " To explain the British Constitution I should 
 have to be a lawyer, but one of the great charac- 
 teristics of it, so far as a layman like me can 
 explain it, consists in what is called the Law of 
 Habeas Corpus, by which no man can be imprisoned 
 by any authority whatever without being imme- 
 diately informed of the accusation against him, and 
 brought up before the constituted authorities within 
 twenty-four hours." 
 
 He said he had heard of that before, and thought 
 it a grand law, but under certain circumstances he 
 considered it might be advantageous for the king 
 to have the power of arresting dangerous characters, 
 upon which I told him that in certain emergencies 
 the law of Habeas Corpus had been suspended, but 
 that could only be done by Act of Parliament, and 
 not by the sovereign's authority.
 
 234 
 
 Sovereign AutJiority. 
 
 " In short," said he, " your Chambers are the 
 real sovereign, the King being only the outward 
 and visible sign of regal authority."
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 A WALK "WITH THE PEINCE— SALUTATIONS OF THE CROWD — 
 THE GUZLA — MONTENEGRIN DANCE — THE PRINCE'S ACCOUNT 
 OF ITS ORIGIN — THE CAMP AT NIGHT — ADVENTURE WITH A 
 MONTENEGRIN — DEVOTION OF THE PEOPLE TO THEIR PRINCE. 
 
 rr^^^^^^jHE firing had now ceased, and the 
 illumination was fading out by de- 
 grees, the band was still playing in 
 front of the Palace, and the full 
 moon was rising well up in the sky. The crowd 
 had increased, as we could see from the window of 
 the saloon, and the broad space in front of the 
 Palace was literally paved with heads and up-turned 
 faces. After looking a few minutes at that dense 
 mass which was swaying to and fro and gradually
 
 236 Montenegrin Crowd. 
 
 getting closer and closer, the Prince asked me 
 what I thought of their behaviour. " Most wonder- 
 fully quiet, orderly, and well behaved; but I can't 
 help looking upon them all as so many powder 
 kegs. One cross word, an imaginary insult, a 
 little too much drink, one of a thousand trifling 
 incidents, might set a spark going, and it will 
 be wonderful indeed if among these thousands of 
 wild and lawless men some turmoil does not 
 arise, and when their Oriental blood is once up, and 
 arms are at hand and ready, blood will scarcely fail 
 to flow.." 
 
 " Well," said the Prince, " I venture to say 'there 
 won't be the smallest misadventure to-night, though 
 I haven't a policeman near here, and there are 
 probably twenty thousand armed men in and about 
 Cettigne at this moment. Do you think there are 
 many Sovereigns in Europe who could with safety 
 walk about in such a crowd in one of their 
 own capitals during a time of excitement such as 
 this.?" 
 
 " Not one, I should think," I replied. 
 
 " Then," said he, " put on your hat and come 
 along with me."
 
 The Prince in the Crowd. 237 
 
 I followed him into the lobby, where throwing a 
 scarf about his shoulders he bid me follow him, 
 first having told his henchman that he would go 
 out alone. 
 
 It was now about eleven p.m., and in a few minutes 
 we were out shouldering our way in the thickest 
 of the crowd, making for the spot where the band 
 was playing. It was not long before he was 
 recognised, right and left, and now began one of 
 the most interesting scenes I ever witnessed. 
 Where there had been a crowd so dense that 
 progression seemed almost an impossibility, an ample 
 space was formed, and then one by one men of 
 all grades approached the Prince, and, according to 
 their rank and station, one and all saluted him in 
 the following way — they took off their caps, and 
 those of the lowest grades took up the edge of his 
 coat and " literally kissed the hem of his garment ;" 
 then those of somewhat better position kissed 
 the same garment higher up ; to others of higher 
 rank still, the Prince extended his hand, which they 
 kissed most reverently, and pressed to their fore- 
 heads three times ; and lastly the Chiefs and Voy-
 
 238 Boyal Condescension. 
 
 vodes, almost on an equality with him, doffed their 
 caps, while His Highness did the same, and both 
 holding each other's right hand pressed the side 
 of their cheek against each other. And so I 
 accompanied him, walking through that living mass, 
 stopping every moment either to receive some 
 act of homage, or to caress some bold little curly- 
 headed fellow who had squeezed and wriggled 
 himself in to get near to his Prince, and to 
 whom His Highness would speak a few words, 
 asking his name and age, and where he went to 
 school, and what he could do, to the untold pride 
 and joy of the parents who were watching. And 
 so we shortly made the tour of the town, coming 
 out on the plain right in front of the monastery 
 where many groups were busily engaged in the 
 performance of the national dance. 
 
 The lights had now gone out, and the illumina- 
 tion had faded away, but the moon nearly at the 
 full was high up in the heavens, and shining as it 
 does not, alas ! shine in these islands. The band was 
 gone, and the only music to be heard was the native 
 guz/a, accompanied by the monotonous chaunt of 
 the vocalists, interrupted occasionally by the wild
 
 Native Dance. 239 
 
 piercing shriek of some dancer. The Prince made 
 for one of the groups where apparently the 
 dancing was most energetic, whilst I followed 
 close on his heels. Being at once recognised, 
 ample way was made for him, and I soon found 
 myself alongside of him in the innermost circle of 
 the ring. 
 
 Here I had full opportunity of observing the 
 native Montenegrin dance, which, if not elegant, 
 has certainly the merit of originality. How shall 
 I describe it? In the area of that ring in which 
 we found ourselves were five couple of dancers, 
 who were being constantly renewed, men and 
 women, as either became exhausted by their exer- 
 tions. The dance itself did not seem to consist 
 of any peculiar steps, but mainly in jumping with 
 the arms extended horizontally, leaping as high 
 as each one could opposite the other, and twirling 
 round at the same time like dancing dervishes, 
 whilst occasionally, as either man or woman had 
 to give in from sheer exhaustion, they uttered a 
 piercing shriek. Though somewhat savage and 
 uncouth to behold, there still was a weird charm 
 about that dance. The tall mountaineers looked
 
 240 The Eagle Dance. 
 
 taller still from their long white surtouts in the 
 bright moonlight, and as they sprang high into the air 
 they appeared absolutely gigantic, while the glitter 
 of the moon's rays on the metallic ornaments of 
 their dress and their jewelled arms produced a 
 strange and pleasing effect. From one group the 
 Prince passed on to another, and so through all till 
 about one in the morning, when he turned his steps 
 towards the Palace, 
 
 " Our dance is not an elegant one," said the 
 Prince, " but it is characteristic ; it is called the 
 Dance of the Eagles, and its origin is thus accounted 
 for. Many years ago the Montenegrins had no 
 national dance, when some of the young men said, 
 ' How is it all our neighbours have national dances 
 of their own and we have none ? Let us imagine 
 and invent a dance ; and, as our mountains are the 
 country of the eagles, let us make it like eagles 
 rising from the rocks, and let us scream like the 
 young eagles.' And so they stretched out their 
 arms and sprang into the air as high as they could, 
 dancing their Eagle Dance, which from thence- 
 forth became the national dance of the country." 
 
 At the gates of the Palace I made my bow, and
 
 Bivouaching . 241 
 
 the Prince, putting out his hand, wished me good 
 night, saying, " I must see you again before you 
 leave." 
 
 \n a few minutes I was in my room. I required 
 no light, the moon was so brilliant. The night 
 being warm, and not feeling at all sleepy from the 
 excitement I had gone through, I lit a cigar, and 
 leaning with my elbows on the window-sill, I looked 
 out into the little plain where so shortly before I 
 had been walknig about. The turmoil had now 
 greatly diminished, and in every direction I could 
 see that preparations were being made to bivouac 
 a la belle etoile. The horses that up to this time had 
 been allowed to roam about here and there, cropping 
 the scanty herbage, were now being collected and 
 picketed one by one near the spot which had been 
 selected by the owner for his own peculiar sleeping 
 place ; while the court-yard of the old Palace was 
 also fully tenanted, and apparently by the same 
 party I had watched in the early morning, and 
 which, from the better style of their horses, the 
 .glitter of their equipments, and the appearance of 
 their attendants, seemed to belong to some of 
 the native chiefs. 
 
 R
 
 242 Interesting Scene. 
 
 By degrees the different noises ceased, and in 
 less than an hour the whole camp was steeped in 
 silence. Such a contrast to the noise and turmoil 
 of an hour before, when twenty thousand people, 
 men, women and children, were shouting, dancing, 
 and yelling at the top of their voices ! 
 
 I put on my helmet, and with a short stick, in 
 my hand, simply to keep away any snarling dog 
 that might be inclined to give trouble, I quickly 
 crossed the court-yard and let myself out by the 
 gate into the plain. The moon had barely passed 
 the • zenith, and shone almost perpendicularly on 
 the prostrate groups, who, in different attitudes of 
 sleep, were dotted all about ; some wrapped up 
 in their strookas, more from habit than necessity, 
 as the air was warm ; some turned on their faces, 
 some on their back with their arms outstretched ; 
 but all profoundly asleep ; and such was the 
 silence that, but for the absence of blood and 
 mutilated limbs and broken weapons, one could 
 easily have imagined it the field of some hard-fought 
 fight. 
 
 I was surveying the placid scene and standing 
 close to a magnificent mountaineer who was sleeping
 
 Night Adventure. 243 
 
 on his back, with his face fully upturned to the 
 moon and his arms extended, when suddenly he 
 awoke. In the twinkling of an eye he was on his 
 feet and his hand on his yataghan. I don't 
 imagine my life was the least in danger, even for 
 a moment — but if it was, my helmet and my cigar 
 saved me. However, I instantly saluted him in 
 Slave, and with a " Sbogo Gospodin' he returned 
 the compliment, at the same time putting out his 
 hand he shook mine warmly, and pointing with 
 the other to the ancient Palace, led me away 
 towards it, talking softly the while and smiling ; 
 but unfortunately I could not understand, and the 
 only response I could make was by offering him 
 a cigar, which he at once lit at mine and pro- 
 nouncing it '■'■ dohre^' (good) puffed away at it 
 with a will. At the great gate of the Palace he 
 wished me good-night, when I begged of him by 
 signs to take another weed, and so we parted. 
 
 The next morning being the day of the feast, 
 I was awoke pretty early by the repeated firing 
 of cannon just outside the gate of the Palace and 
 in front of my window. I should have been 
 glad to have slept a few hours longer, but the 
 
 R 2
 
 244 Going to High Mass. 
 
 noise was too great, and my so-called Italian- 
 speaking servant coming in at the same mo- 
 ment, I jumped out of bed and called out, 
 " Colazione /" 
 
 I had not more than half finished, and was 
 in the act of peeling some grand specimens ot 
 Albanian figs, when in walked Pero Pejovich, 
 who came to tell me that the Prince and Princess, 
 with all the notables and Voyvodes of Montenegro, 
 would attend High Mass at ten, and that the 
 cortege would pass under my windows and would 
 be worth seeing. He added that if I liked he 
 would take me into church and get me standing- 
 room inside before they arrived ; but he feared 
 the crowd and the heat would be something fear- 
 ful. Consequently, finding it quite hot enough 
 already, I determined to remain where I was 
 and enjoy the procession from my window. 
 
 I then told the Commandant of my adventure 
 the night before. He scolded me awfully, but 
 patted me on the back, as one would a child, 
 and said I might have run some risk had I 
 not been fortunately recognised as a guest of the 
 Prince.
 
 Devotion to the Prince. 245 
 
 " Only imagine," said he, " if anything had gone 
 wrong, the honour of Montenegro might have been 
 compromised." 
 
 We then lit our cigars, and while waiting for 
 mass-time, fell, as usual, into conversation about his 
 country and its usages. 
 
 " What do you think of our Prince, and the 
 way he goes among the people ? I saw you last 
 night with him. Did you ever see such love, 
 such devotion, as we all have for him ? But he 
 deserves it fully. There never was such a ruler 
 as our Prince ; we would all lay down our lives 
 for him, and be proud of the honour. If he were 
 to call us to arms, we could muster in twelve hours, 
 here in this plain of Cettigne, twenty thousand 
 able men, fully armed and equipped, ready to march 
 on any point, and that without endangering Monte- 
 negro ; for we should leave twenty thousand more 
 behind us, not so well adapted for advancing in 
 an enemy's country, but fully competent to guard 
 our mountain passes and protect our strong- 
 holds." 
 
 I said I hoped such a contingency might never 
 arise ; but he shook his head. The Turks, he said,
 
 246 England and Montenegro. 
 
 hated them too much not to seek, sooner or 
 later, for a pretext to attack them, and then he 
 added, 
 
 " But the sooner the better ; we never were so 
 well prepared to meet them. The Turks pretend 
 that Montenegro is an integral portion of the 
 Ottoman Empire ; we insist that we have always 
 been free, and though often hard pressed by Otto- 
 man forces, have never yet been conquered. What 
 chance then is there of our coming to an under- 
 standing ? My great grief, however, is to hear 
 that England is against us and in favour of our 
 enemies, and if it were not for the friendship which 
 Russia has ever shown us, we might be exterminated 
 by the infidels before you would lift a finger to 
 prevent our utter annihilation. We cannot under- 
 stand it, for we read of how England exerts herself 
 always in favour of oppressed nationalities, and 
 how she has even spent hundreds of millions of 
 piastres to put down the slave trade ; and yet she 
 favours the Turks, who are the greatest sup- 
 porters of slavery, against us, though our 
 religions are almost identical, I am told. 
 I wish more English would corne to Monte-
 
 opinions of the Commandant. 247 
 
 negro. I think they would end by appreciating 
 us." 
 
 These words of the Commandant made a deep 
 impression on me. 
 
 -^w
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 FALSE IMPRESSIONS OF MONTENEGRO — AGRICULTURE ON A 
 MINOR SCALE — FIELD-LABOURERS — MONTENEGRIN FACCHINI 
 AT CONSTANTINOPLE — FEMALE LABOUR — PRODUCTION OF 
 SUMACH — COMMERCIAL RELATIONS WITH OTHER COUNTRIES 
 IMPEDED— IMPOSING PAGEANT. 
 
 RULY very litlle is known about 
 Montenegro and its mountaineers, 
 and that little is very incorrect. 
 They have been generally represented 
 as wild, savage, bloodthirsty, thieving scoundrels, 
 closely allied to Italian brigands and Greek pali- 
 kari — if anything, worse, than either. Fond of 
 fighting for fighting's sake, and when not engaged 
 in that amiable recreation, spending their time in
 
 Cultivation of tlte Soil. 249 
 
 strutting about in their fine clothes, peacocking 
 in the sunshine, while those too poor to have 
 fine trappings whiled away the weary hours and 
 forgot their fleas and their sorrows in the tones 
 of their national guzia^ while the women were left 
 to do all the labour in the fields. 
 
 Such was certainly not my impression. The 
 part of Montenegro through which I travelled, 
 though sterile and barren to a degree, was a wonder- 
 ful specimen of what man could do when driven 
 to it. Every little nook, where the least bit of 
 soil could be found, among that wilderness of rocks 
 where stones had rained from Heaven, was care- 
 fully taken advantage of; the rocks adjoining these 
 little nooks were often removed by the most 
 laborious exertions, and in some instances earth 
 was scraped up here and there, and carried in small 
 baskets to these spots, in order to increase their 
 depth of soil. I saw clearings of so small a 
 size as barely to admit of one potatoe plant or 
 three of maize, and little fields not one yard in 
 diameter ! 
 
 Hard at work, cultivating the soil, I saw not 
 only women but plenty of sturdy mountaineers.
 
 250 Charges against the Montenegrins. 
 
 At Niegosh I observed one of the Petrovichs, the 
 handsome young fellow who entertained me on my 
 way to Cettigne, superintending himself a number 
 of men who were working in a field near his house ; 
 and the only difference I could observe between 
 them and our own labourers was that they were 
 all fully armed, although employed at the peaceful 
 occupation of agriculture. They have not yet 
 turned their yataghans into spades and reaping 
 hooks, but thev have done the next best thing by 
 keeping the first at ease while energetically plying 
 the others. 
 
 I have seen the Montenegrins in their own 
 valleys and mountain fastnesses, and I utterly deny 
 the charges brought against them. They are not 
 lazy — leaving all the hard work to their women — 
 that is utterly false, and the best proof I perhaps 
 can give, lies in the self-asserting fact of the 
 toiling colony of three thousand Montenegrin 
 Facchini at Constantinople, well known as about 
 the most hard-working and honest labouring men 
 in that capital. It is true that they allow the 
 women to do much of the heavy agricultural work, 
 and carry heavy loads up and down the mountains ;
 
 Female Labour. 251 
 
 but it must be remembered that for years past 
 the Montenegrins, like the proscribed clans of 
 Scotland in the last century, have been treated by 
 their neighbours, the Turks, very little better than 
 wild beasts. They would long ago have been 
 exterminated, but for their indomitable courage and 
 constant fighting, during which period, of necessity, 
 the agricultural duties fell entirely on the decrepit 
 old men and the women, as all men who were at 
 all able to carry arms were engaged in fighting — 
 and many of the women too ! It must also be 
 remembered that in all mountainous countries 
 the women toil more heavily than in the plains, 
 and even in civilized Italy hear what a distingnished 
 Italian, Massimo d'Azeglio, writes : 
 
 " For example, if a faggot of wood and a bunch 
 of chickens have to be carried down to the shore 
 from one of the villages half way up the mountain, 
 the labour is thus distributed in the family. The 
 wife loads herself with the faggot of wood which 
 weighs half a hundredweight, and the husband will 
 take the chickens which weigh a mere nothing." 
 The Montenegrins are not, therefore, singu- 
 larly and atrociously barbarous in this respect.
 
 252 Produce. 
 
 Considering the small extent of the Principality 
 and its great sterility, it is wonderful the amount 
 of produce they are able to export, even with the dis- 
 abilities under which they labour, being entirely de- 
 prived of any seaboard, though clearly entitled to one. 
 One of the most important of their natural products, 
 one which under favourable circumstances might 
 be increased a thousandfold is "sumach," a sub- 
 stance largely used in tanning the more expensive 
 kinds of leather. A small amount is exported to 
 Holland, none comes to England, but a small 
 parcel I brought over with me was declared by 
 competent judges to be equal to tTie best 
 Sicilian, which is considered the best of all 
 sumachs. 
 
 I'hey have vast forests of walnut trees which", 
 under proper management and due facilities of 
 exportation, might be rendered most produc- 
 tive, both as to walnut oil and timber for 
 cabinet work. They export immense quantities 
 of a small dried fish " scoranza," much used 
 in the neighbouring Catholic and Greek coun- 
 tries during their religious feasts ; and without 
 further wearying my readers, I will simply
 
 Frocession to High Mass. 253 
 
 add that but for the difficulties they labour 
 under, they could export everyone of the fol- 
 lowing articles in very considerable quanti- 
 ties : — 
 
 Castradina (dried mutton and goat hams), honey, 
 wax, goat and kid skins to any amount, as 
 also martin, fox, and hare skins, together 
 with many other substances I have for- 
 gotten. 
 
 The Prince is doing all he can to spread 
 instruction among his people. He has established 
 numberless schools, and as all over the Princi- 
 pality education is compulsory, in another genera- 
 tion the man or woman unable to read 
 and write will be a phenomenon indeed in Monte- 
 negro. 
 
 The renewed booming of the cannon and the 
 ringing of the convent bells now gave us warning 
 that the Prince was going to heai Mass, and in 
 a few seconds I saw the whole cortege pass on foot 
 under my window. First a squad of guards, then 
 His Highness the Prince leading the beautiful 
 Princess, immediately accompanied by the Russian 
 Consul in full uniform, and then a number of
 
 254 Monsignor Boganovich. 
 
 Voyvodes in gorgeous costumes, while another 
 squad of body-guards brought up the rear. They 
 walked quickly past, and in a few minutes were 
 lost completely to sight under the buttresses of the 
 old Palace. The pageant was of short duration, 
 but it was well worth seeing, even in that land of 
 sunshine and gorgeous costumes. 
 
 Mass over, everyone turned in for his 
 dinner and siesta. The Commandant of the 
 Grahovo went to his own abode, and I followed the 
 general example. 
 
 In the afternoon some wonderful foot races were 
 to be held, but not till near sunset, when the great 
 heat of the day would be somewhat abated. I 
 determined therefore to fill up the space between 
 the end of my siesta and the visit to the races, 
 with a call on Monsignor Roganovich, the 
 Metropolitan of Montenegro. I had brought 
 letters of recommendation to the Archimandrite of 
 Cettigne, and in his company I went to the 
 monastery to pay my respects. We entered by the 
 great gate, after crossing the threshing floor, and 
 having crossed the court we ascended by a 
 very rough stone staircase, which landed us in a
 
 Homely Room. 255 
 
 sort of primitive cloister looking on a garden, on 
 which opened the suite of rooms occupied by the 
 Metropolitan. 
 
 We were at once shown in, and had not to 
 wait many seconds before Monsignor Roganovich 
 made his appearance. His reception was most 
 cordial. He took me by the hand and made me 
 sit on the divan by his side, expressing his regret 
 that he could not converse with me except through 
 an interpreter, owing to his not speaking any 
 other language than Illyrian and Russian. We got 
 on, however, remarkably well, thanks to the 
 rapidity with which the Archimandrite almost 
 guessed what I was going to say in Italian, 
 translating it into Illyrian with equal rapidity. 
 Coffee, as usual, was served up, unaccompanied 
 however by the customary pipes, as the orthodox 
 clergy are forbidden to smoke. 
 
 And now as I am sipping my coffee, let me 
 endeavour to describe what I saw as my eyes 
 wandered about. The room itself was small and 
 ■low, simply white-washed, with no other furniture 
 than one small table in front of the divan, and 
 four rush chairs of the homeliest description.
 
 256 The Metropolitan. 
 
 Around the walls were a few coloured prints of 
 saints, and the floor was utterly uncarpeted. All 
 this simplicity, however, served to bring out in 
 greater contrast and relief the portly figure of 
 Monsignor Roganovich, as he sat on the divan 
 in his ample cassock and gown of violet-purple 
 silk. He was not a handsome man, strictly 
 speaking, his was more a jolly countenance than 
 a handsome one, still it was a face one liked to 
 look at, with his grand black beard flowing 
 down to his waist. He wore his hair in ample 
 curls down his back as if it had never known 
 the shears, and on his head the little Montenegrin 
 cap of black silk. On his breast glittered the 
 star of the Montenegrin order, and round his 
 neck a massive gold chain, from which depended 
 a Panagia or image of the Virgin and Child, nearly 
 as large as a saucer, surrounded with large 
 diamonds. 
 
 His manners were courtly and his smile most 
 pleasing, and he gave me the idea of one who 
 would make an excellent companion for a little 
 dinner party of four, and who would be more in 
 his element on the Boulevard des Italiens at Paris,
 
 The Archimandrite's Benediction. 257 
 
 than in his monastic seclusion at Cettigne. We 
 conversed for half an hour or so when I rose 
 to take my leave, and he gave me the 
 Apostolic Benediction, and embraced me on both 
 cheeks. As we walked back to the Palace, the 
 Archimandrite told me he took great interest 
 in the schools, which he visited daily, ex 
 amining and cross-examining the students, to 
 see that they made good use of their 
 time.
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 FOOT KACES — MONASTERY OF OSTROG— OTTOMAN ADMINISTRA- 
 TION— A COURSE A LA MONTAGNE — RACING WITHOUT BETTING 
 — BEN TROVATO — A FLAT RACE — CONVERSATION ABOUT 
 ENGLISH LAWS AND CUSTOMS— LAW OF HABEAS CORPUS. 
 
 N the afternoon I went out into the 
 plain to see the foot races, which 
 the Prince had told me would be very 
 amusing. 
 
 On my way to the plain, where the races were 
 to take place, I rambled again through the fair, and 
 a second time got into conversation with the fellow 
 that spoke English so well. We chatted together 
 on many subjects, all more or less connected with 
 the country ; he praised the Montenegrins to no
 
 Ostrog. 259 
 
 end, and told me he would trust them to any 
 amount, they were so thoroughly honest and 
 scrupulous in their dealings. He wanted me 
 to go with him, in a couple of days after 
 the fair was over, to the monastery of 
 Ostrog, but my time was not my own, and 1 
 could not give myself that additional plea- 
 sure. 
 
 It was a great disappointment, however, as Ostrog 
 is a wonderful place, cut out of the rock, not 
 perched on one as some of the monasteries of 
 Mount Athos are, but partly excavated at a great 
 height out of the face of the rock, and partly 
 built on a ledge which the upper part of the 
 rock overhangs. It is approached by a narrow 
 path cut into steps, where no more than two 
 could walk abreast, and therefore easily defended by 
 a handful of men against any number of assailants. 
 There is an ample supply of water in it at all 
 times, and it is always stored with a good supply of 
 rations, and an immense quantity of ammunition. 
 Except by starving out the garrison, it never cculd 
 be taken. 
 
 My companion wanted me then to go with him 
 
 s 1
 
 260 Turhish Civilization. 
 
 Into the interior of Northern Albania, where he was 
 well known, and where under his protection and 
 guidance I should have been perfectly safe ; while 
 his knowledge of the languages, both Oriental and 
 English, would have enabled me to make many 
 interesting inquiries. When I asked him about 
 the administration of those countries by the 
 Ottoman Government, and the opening up of the 
 country by the projected railway from Adrianople 
 to Novi-Bazar which has already been surveyed, 
 he shrugged his shoulders, and then, with a toss of 
 his head, said : — 
 
 " Railways are all very good, but they are 
 almost useless here. What we want is a good 
 Government, and that we never shall have as long 
 as this Christian country is ruled by the Turks. 
 You talk of the progress of civilization among 
 them ; but you simply know nothing about them. 
 I can speak, for I have lived with them and among 
 them from childhood; and as to their civilization, 
 it is simply a farce. Even at Stamboul, among the 
 better educated, among those who have been to 
 Paris and London, their civilization is nothing 
 more than the gilding of Brummagem jewelry —
 
 Tiirldsh Navy. 261 
 
 the slightest rubbing will cause the copper to 
 blush out from beneath. Civilization indeed ! 
 See what a powerful navy they possess ; but let 
 Hobart Pasha go home and take with him all 
 his European officers, men and engineers, leaving 
 nothing behind but pure full-blooded Turks to 
 man it, and the entire Ottoman navy would not 
 be a match for the smallest British ironclad. In 
 making this disparaging statement as to the so- 
 called civilization of Turkey, I have selected the 
 navy as an example because in old times the Turks 
 were able to hold their own at sea, and showed 
 a great aptitude in naval matters; but naval science 
 has progressed and they have remained stationary. 
 But so it is — their civilization is a dream ; their 
 finances a colossal sham ; and their final exodus 
 from Europe, I trust, is in the very nearest 
 distance. In fact, if all the Christians in Ottoman 
 employ — English, French, Armenian or Greek — 
 were to abandon their several posts, Turkey 
 would simply collapse in six months." 
 
 I don't say that these are my opinions, but 
 simply the clearly expressed convictions of a
 
 262 Course a la Montague. 
 
 sharp trader who had long been intimate with 
 European Turkey. 
 
 It wanted not much more than an hour of 
 sunset; the western crags threw long purple 
 shadows along the plain of Cettigne, while the 
 rocks which bound it on the east were steeped in 
 the richest tints of gold, and russet, and purple. 
 Up, near to the old Palace of the Vladikas, was 
 a splendid group of native magnates with the 
 Prince in the midst, while ranged in a row before 
 them were about a hundred and fifty of the most 
 athletic men in Montenegro — competitors all in a 
 coming foot race for a splendid pair of silver- 
 mounted pistols, offered by His Highness to him 
 who should first lay his hands on them. The 
 pistols were placed on a conspicuous rock a 
 considerable way up the cliffs on the south-west 
 side of the plain. 
 
 The competitors may have been placed at a 
 distance of three hundred yards from the base of 
 those cliffs; it was, therefore, partly a flat race 
 and partly a " course a la montagne :" as the 
 Prince said, " En Angleterre vous avez les courses 
 au clocher, (steeple-chases) ici nous avons les courses
 
 Exciting Scene. 263 
 
 a la montazney The men had divested them- 
 
 o 
 
 selves of their white coats, and their belts and 
 armour. For an instant there was profound silence, 
 and then, at a given signal, off they went at a 
 good pace, keeping wonderfully together for the 
 first two hundred yards or so ; then the line began 
 to get wavy, and with every stride more and 
 more fell behind, till, when they arrived at the 
 foot of the crags, there were not, perhaps, more 
 than fifty that sprang up simultaneously to the 
 cliffs. Then, indeed, began the real race, and 
 the mountaineers took to it in right earnest, 
 scaling the precipice like leopards. It was quite 
 exciting to watch the rapidity with which they 
 swung themselves from point to point, taking 
 advantage of every cleft, every rootlet, that 
 offered the least hold to either hand or foot. 
 At last, three arrived almost simultaneously at 
 the goal ; but one, slightly in advance, made a 
 vigorous spring — touched the pistols first — barely 
 winning by a hand ! 
 
 It was, without exception, the prettiest thing 
 by way of a race I ever saw. The whole scene 
 was before you like a panorama; the costumes
 
 264 The Race. 
 
 of the runners and the spectators ; the gorgeous 
 tuits of the setting sun; the enthusiasm of all, 
 together with the shouts of the multitude, rendered 
 it a scene never to be forgotten ; and as I watched 
 them clambering up the cliffs in front of me, 
 guessing at the chances of the race, and mentally 
 gambling with myself on who would be the winner, 
 I could not help feeling a certain degree of surprise 
 that no betting was going on in any part of that 
 vast assemblage. The chances were so many, the 
 combinations so varied, and the probabilities so 
 constantly changing, that a fairer game to try the 
 luck of Dame Fortune could not have been 
 devised, and all the more, too, as all were honestly 
 in earnest in striving for the prize. There were 
 no dark horses, no sickened favourites, no hard- 
 pulling jockeys to bewilder the backers ; all was 
 before you, fair and serene, and the excitement 
 was tremendous when some one fine mountaineer, 
 well in advance of the rest, maybe by five or 
 six yards, would suddenly lose his foothold through 
 the giving way of some small projection of rock 
 to which, he was clinging, and after remaining 
 suspended a short time by his hands above his
 
 Absence of Betting. 265 
 
 head, he would eventually have to let go his hold 
 and drop down some few feet, losuig all chance 
 m the race ; while those who had been nearest to 
 him would redouble their efforts, and thus at 
 times the one who at first starting had seemed 
 the least likely to win would actually come to 
 be in the first flight of the race; but he, in 
 his turn, by some unlucky chance would slip, 
 and another would as instantly get on before 
 him. These constant changes of chances made 
 the race a most exciting one ; still not a bet among 
 the multitude of lookers-on ! 
 
 One of the Prince's aide-de-camps having heard 
 me express surprise at the absence of all betting, 
 said, " Betting is quite a characteristic of you others 
 (vous autres) in England. I am told you would 
 bet on anything. I have heard a story of a poor 
 girl who once threw herself off a bridge in 
 London. The police-boat, fortunately, was near, 
 and pulled away to her rescue, when two lords 
 happening to pass by, stopped on the bridge for a 
 bet as to whether the girl would be saved or 
 not, and lost and won an immense sum on the 
 event."
 
 266 A Flat Race. 
 
 I laughed, and replied, 
 
 " Se non e vero e ben trovatoJ' 
 
 After this we had a flat race for about a mile 
 across the plains. So far as running went, it 
 was a flat race indeed, and I have often seen better 
 at an Irish country fair ; but it was well worth 
 seeing from the rich colouring of the costumes 
 of those taking part in it, as they ran with their 
 clothes on ; and as every one was eligible to com- 
 pete, and not Montenegrins alone, the effect was 
 most singular and picturesque. The prize was 
 in this case also a pair of silver-mounted Turkish 
 pistols, given by the Prince, and I was 
 glad to hear that the winner was a Monte- 
 negrin. 
 
 In the evening I had the honour of dining at 
 the Palace, when the Prince again asked me 
 many questions concerning England, its habits 
 and customs, of which, although he had read 
 much in French books, he knew absolutely no- 
 thing. 
 
 We again spoke about the law of primogeni- 
 ture, about which he could not exactly make up 
 his mind, and could not understand how it did
 
 Regret at Departure. 267 
 
 not produce disastrous occurrences in families. 
 He understood, however, quite well what I ex- 
 plained to him concerning the Law of Habeas 
 Corpus, and again declared it to be a grand insti- 
 tution, so far as the people were concerned. 
 
 I left at a late hour, after spending a most 
 delightful evening, and as I went back to my 
 rooms to pack my small valise for my early start 
 next morning, I felt an undefinable regret at 
 leaving Tchernagora and its interesting moun 
 taineers. I had enjoyed among them a courteous 
 hospitality and a patriarchal welc me, the pro- 
 minent characteristics of which will, I fear, before 
 very long disappear under the pressure and vis 
 a tergo of our so-called European civilization. I 
 should like, above all things, to visit them again; 
 but should it never be my lot to enjoy that 
 pleasure, I cannot take leave of Montenegro 
 without expressing my deep sense of the cordial 
 reception I met with there on every side.
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 DEPAETTJEE FEOM CETTIGNE — BUGGED EOAD — DELIGHTFUL 
 VIEW— USEFUL OLD HELMET — NIEGOSH — EXCESSIVE HEAT 
 — THE SCALA DI CATTAEO — THE BOCCHESI— THE RUSSIAN 
 CONSUL— SUNSET AT CATTAEO— UNEXPECTED AfPEAEANCE 
 OF PEEO PEJOVICH. 
 
 S the clock struck three In the morning 
 of the 15th of July, 1873, the 
 guide walked into my room to say 
 it was time to start ; at the same 
 moment my servant brought me in a cup of 
 cafe-au-lait with some hot toast. My toilette was 
 soon made, and my breakfast swallowed, and I 
 moved away from Cettigne as the clock chimed the 
 half-hour after three.
 
 Precipitous Trade. 269 
 
 It was still night, but not dark, as the moon 
 had not yet set, and a band of rose-coloured light 
 streaked the Eastern horizon. We started at a 
 rapid trot, startling the echoes up the solitary and 
 deserted street of Cettigne, and we never slackened 
 our pace till we came to the verge of the little 
 plain in which it is situated, when the path up the 
 ravine which led westward to the Adriatic became 
 so rugged that we were compelled to walk our 
 horses, and in less than half-an-hour more had 
 to dismount and proceed on foot. 
 
 In a short time we reached the crest of the 
 range which encircles the Plains of Cettigne, and 
 the track becoming less precipitous, we remounted ; 
 but before leaving the spot I turned my horse 
 round to have a last look at that mountain capital 
 where I had been so hospitably entertained, and 
 where, most probably, I might never have the 
 pleasure of being again. 
 
 I was now standing on the highest point of 
 the pass, and I enjoyed a most delightful view. 
 The sun was just in the act of rising. My back 
 was to the Adriatic, while my face was turned 
 to the East. At my feet lay the Plain of Cettigne.,
 
 270 Delightful View. 
 
 girt round on all sides with precipitous rocks and 
 mountains. Beyond the plain, far in the hazy 
 horizon — not foggy — but rendered slightly indis- 
 tinct by a faint cobalt haze, I could see the Lake 
 of Skodra glittering in the morning sun with 
 the thin silver streak of the Zeta river losing itself 
 in it, while in the still further distance I could 
 perceive the faintest outline of the Albanian moun- 
 tains. Right and left, as far as the eye could reach, 
 nothing but rocky peaks and precipices met the 
 view — nothing but rocks with here and there a few 
 scanty bushes, on which were browsing large herds 
 of goats tended by wild-looking men, carrying 
 round their waist, as usual, the inevitable arsenal 
 of weapons, and the long Albanian gun over their 
 shoulders. 
 
 I would have lingered over this scene, and I 
 was already thinking of getting down and sketching 
 it, when the guide remonstrated against any such 
 proceeding on my part. " It was very near the dog 
 days," he said, " and to be caught by the noon-day 
 sun on those bare rocks, was a thing to be avoided ;" 
 so I was compelled to move on, after giving
 
 Niegosh. 271 
 
 another long look at the picture to which I was 
 about to turn my back. 
 
 The guide was right ; the track was abominable, 
 and we could only proceed at a slow pace. At the 
 same time, the sun was gaining strength with 
 every inch it rose above the horizon, and by 
 the time we reached the clachan of Niegosh, its 
 rays come down upon us like molten lead ; but 
 my old helmet was proof against them, and an 
 excellent protection, while the faint breeze which 
 came up from the Adriatic prevented all feeling of 
 oppression. 
 
 At Niegosh, where a week before I had 
 been so kindly entertained by young Pejovich, 
 we rested five minutes. I did not even dismount, 
 but the guide went into the very primitive khan 
 to light his pipe ; but, by the way, he smacked his 
 lips on coming out, I suspect a glass of wodky 
 was not forgotten, while the fire for his pipe 
 was being handed to him. 
 
 After a little, the path again became im- 
 practicable for riding, so I had to dismount and 
 walk, though the heat was something marvellous 
 (I afterwards heard from Signor Jackschich that
 
 272 Scala di G attar o. 
 
 in Cattaro, in the shade, the thermometer 
 stood at 33° Reaumur at four o'clock in the 
 afternoon — about 105° Fahrenheit. After some 
 difficult scrambling, when I sorely felt the want 
 of the stout arm of Pero Pejovich, we reached 
 the fountain, and here we rested ten minutes ; 
 then having remounted, we soon arrived at the 
 top of the scala^ with the Adriatic before us and 
 Cattaro hundreds of feet down below. 
 
 It seemed now as if I should be at the end of 
 my journey in a few minutes ; the road was all 
 before me, and I could count the zig-zags as they 
 unfolded themselves on the face of the rock, 
 still they seemed as if they would never come to 
 an end. I counted one, two, three, twenty, thirty, 
 fifty, up to one hundred bends, and still more 
 appeared beneath me, so at last I gave it up 
 through sheer exhaustion. 
 
 Everything, however, has an end eventually, 
 and so the apparently interminable Scala di 
 Cattaro came to an end also. How I got on 
 during the last few turns and twists I forget — 
 I was in a sort of doze ; all I remember is 
 finding myself suddenly among those heavenly
 
 The BocchesL 273 
 
 mulberry trees of the Esplanade, and hear- 
 ing the friendly sound of Signor Jackschich's 
 welcome. 
 
 Cattaro is innocent of either inn, hotel, 
 khan, or caravansary, but good accommoda- 
 tion had been prepared for me inside the 
 town. I therefore rode on to the gate where I 
 had to dismount, as no horse is allowed to enter, 
 just as no carriage can enter the narrow gate- 
 way. 
 
 The Bocchesi (as the natives call themselves) 
 have one cause of heart-burning and envy, 
 less than we in our country ; there are 
 no carriage-people in Cattaro to look down 
 upon you who have to trudge on foot, 
 and the nearest approach to anything of the 
 sort is an antique sedan-chair mounted on wheels 
 exactly like the celebrated old push at Hampton 
 Court, which was occasionally brought into requisi- 
 tion on gala days, when such happened to be 
 wet ones also. , 
 
 Having reached my rooms I quickly made 
 my toilet, and then returned to the mulberries, 
 under whose welcome shade I made an excellent 
 
 T
 
 274 Unexpected Visitor. 
 
 breakfast and lunch in one, while many of the 
 natives were taking their dinner. 
 
 My further steps became now somewhat un- 
 certain. I thought I should have found the 
 steamer here to take me down the Adriatic, 
 but 1 had miscalculated; it was not due till the 
 following day. So I determined on resting in 
 Cattaro till evening, and then riding across the 
 isthmus (about eighteen miles only) to Budua, 
 where Baron von Heydeg was quartered, and 
 picking up the steamer when it would call there 
 in a couple of days. 1 at once telegraphed to 
 Heydeg that I was going, in order that the officer 
 on guard might open the gates for me on 
 arrival, as no one is let in or out of Budua 
 after sunset, without an order from the Com- 
 mandant. Then I went to my room, " and 
 being fairly tired, I threw myself on the bed and 
 slept. 
 
 It was about half-past three when I was awoke 
 by some one knocking at my door, and to my 
 surprise, in walked Mr. Yon in, the Russian Consul. 
 I had forgotten to mention that we had agreed 
 to travel from Cettigne together, and were to
 
 Tlie Marina. 21 h 
 
 have met in the street opposite the Palace at 
 three a.m. ; but the servants had forgotten to call 
 him, and when after waiting half an hour he did 
 not come, and the guards on duty would not allow 
 my guide to knock at the Palace gate, I started 
 without him, thinking he had changed his mind. 
 He had breakfasted late and then ridden to Cattaro 
 in the middle of the day in order to catch the 
 steamer for Ragusa that was to leave the same 
 evening. I told him how long I had waited, and 
 how I had tried in vain to get the sentinels to allow 
 us to knock. He could only lament his mis- 
 fortune, as, mopping his face, he added, " I 
 assure you the heat on those bare rocks was some- 
 thing to be remembered all one's life." We then 
 arranged to dine together at five o'clock before 
 parting. 
 
 Punctual to the hour appointed, we met on 
 the marina. The heat of the day had consider- 
 ably diminished, for although the sun was still 
 high in the horizon, it had long ago set for 
 the good folks at Cattaro, as the city being 
 built at the foot of the mountains looking to 
 the West, and having a range of high cliffs in 
 
 T 2
 
 276 The Beau Monde. 
 
 front of it, behind which the sun sinks long before 
 it dips into the Adriatic, sunset at Cattaro occurs 
 hours earlier than at any other place on the 
 Adriatic. In Summer this is a great advantage, as 
 it enables the inhabitants to walk out in the 
 shade on the marina at a much earlier hour, the 
 opposite cliffs protecting them from the hot rays 
 of the sun, and at the same time affording them a 
 sort of twilight, elsewhere unknown in those 
 latitudes ; but in Winter it must be very gloomy, 
 as the rising sun being shut out by the rocks 
 and mountains of Montenegro till near eleven 
 o'clock in the morning, and again disappearing so 
 early in the afternoon, reduces the actual day 
 to as short a space as in the latitude of St. 
 Petersburg. 
 
 Availing themselves of the comparative coolness 
 of the hour, the beau monde of that primitive 
 little place, among which the Bishop and the 
 Commandant of the garrison were conspicuous, 
 had turned out for their evening promenade, and 
 the esplanade presented quite a gay appearance. I 
 ordered the horses for seven o'clock, and then we 
 went to look for our dinner at the cafe ; but here
 
 Pero Pejovich. 2 / / 
 
 something of a difficulty arose. The Bocchesi 
 dine at twelve noon, or at one at latest, and sup 
 at nine, no one ever thinking of a meal at five! 
 so that nothing was ready. The cook, however, 
 was equal to the emergency, and in fifteen minutes 
 served us up a most excellent and varied dinner, 
 to which we were about to sit down and do 
 ample justice, when who should turn up but 
 Pero Pejovich ! 
 
 He was returning to his post in the Grahovo, 
 and found it easier to get to it by coming round 
 to Cattaro first, then going by sea to Risano and 
 thence, as it were, coming back on his own 
 steps, thus going a round of something like four 
 times the direct distance. This will convey some 
 idea of the difficulties to be encountered in endea- 
 vouring to cross some of the rocky regions of 
 Montenegro. 
 
 I Vv^as delighted at seeing him again ; v/e all 
 dined together, and enjoyed ourselves immensely 
 notwithstanding the heat. After dinner, Pero 
 Pejovich pulled out from among the ample folds 
 of his sash some Trebigne tobacco, which had 
 never seen the countenance of a Custom House
 
 278 Unexjjeded Bencontre. 
 
 officer, and we set to work to make cigarettes, 
 when we were joined by Signor Jackschich and 
 Signor Radanovich, the Prince's Agent at Cattaro. 
 Coffee and maraschino were brought out, fresh 
 relays of cigarettes were manufactured, and we 
 could have enjoyed ourselves for hours more, 
 but the inexorable bell of the steamer rang out 
 a summons that bade Mr. Yonin prepare for 
 departure, while the increasing darkness served 
 to remind myself that I had yet a journey 
 before me ere I should be able to lie down to 
 rest. 
 
 We stood up reluctantly, and in a body accom- 
 panied the Russian Consul to the steamer, and 
 there bade him adieu, probably for ever; though 
 who can tell ? I have had at times the most 
 unexpected rencontres in the most unlikely places. 
 I first met him at Ragusa, where also I made 
 my first acquaintance with Mr. Paton, now un- 
 fortunately no more ; both very able and highly 
 educated men, yet they seemed not to appreciate 
 each other as they might have done, perhaps 
 from the diametrical opposition of their political 
 views.
 
 Mr. Yonin. 279 
 
 Poor Paton is lost to us for ever, and we shall 
 never have a better member of our Consular ser- 
 vice ; a shrewd, sagacious man, and a first-rate 
 Oriental scholar. 
 
 As to Mr. Yonin, I trust I may yet meet him, 
 and renew some of the pleasant hours I spent with 
 him.
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 BEAUTIFUL ROAD — ATTACK OF FEVER — ARRIVAL AT BUDUA — 
 
 BARON HETDEG AND SIGNOR MARCO MEDIN— A RESTAURANT 
 
 . — OUR HOST— DOCTOR, DENTIST AND APOTHECARY — WALK 
 
 ROUND THE FORTIFICATIONS — EXPLORATION . OF BUDUA — 
 
 THE PARTING GLASS. 
 
 HE twilight of Cattaro was fast 
 merging into darkness when I 're- 
 turned with my companions to the 
 esplanade, where my horses were 
 ready to take me on to Budua. Our adieux were 
 short but cordial, and in a few minutes I was 
 cantering away in company with Signor Jackschich, 
 who lives in a villa a couple of miles away from 
 Cattaro.
 
 Beautiful Boad. 281 
 
 If the tracks and paths of Montenegro are 
 rugged and wild, the beautiful road we were now 
 travelling on made ample amends for the dis- 
 comfort I had endured in riding during the last 
 few days. As we passed Signor Jackschich's villa, 
 I insisted on his remaining there, or his courtesy 
 would have induced him to keep me company ever 
 so much further on ; so wishing him adieu for 
 the twentieth time, I lit my cigar, and sticking 
 spurs into my pony, cantered away on my road 
 to Budua. The ride was not interesting. I started 
 too late ; I should have remembered that in those 
 latitudes, except at Cattaro, there is no twilight. 
 
 On leaving Cattaro the road is at first directly 
 south, leading across the isthmus of the penin- 
 sula which forms the western shore of the gulf 
 of that name. Having reached the sea, it con- 
 tinues to skirt the Adriatic, except in those places 
 where to avoid rounding a headland it runs 
 inland straight across the base of the pro- 
 montory. 
 
 The night was fine, and we got on famously , 
 but whether in consequence of the good dinner, 
 or the genial sensation produced by the atmos-
 
 282 Baron Heijdeg. 
 
 phere, or the early hour I had risen in the morning, 
 when it came to be about eleven o'clock an in- 
 describable feeling of lassitude and intense sleepi- 
 ness came over me. I would have given anything 
 to lie down even for half-an-hour ; but it was out 
 of the question, as we were at that time crossing 
 a sort of marsh, and there was not a dry spot 
 to lie down on. So I was compelled to ride on; 
 but I suspect I dozed, and then during those 
 moments of extreme lassitude and prostration, when 
 my vital powers were standing at their lowest, I 
 fear I imbibed some of those zymotic germs, 
 some malarious molecules, which a few days later 
 manifested themselves by a smart attack of fever. 
 Thanks, however, to a good constitution and a few 
 doses of quinine, I was able to cut it short in three 
 days, though it stuck to me for a little while 
 longer in the shape of an indescribable sort of 
 malaise. 
 
 At one o'clock a.m., we reached the gates of 
 Budua, where I was met by Baron Heydeg and 
 Signor Marco Medin. Heydeg was an officer 
 quartered with his regiment at Budua, whose 
 acquaintance I had made at Pola, and with whom
 
 Signor Mediii. 283 
 
 I had subsequently travelled. Medin was a native 
 of Budua, who had left his country many years 
 before, had made money in California, had married 
 there a buxom Irish girl, a native of Ballinrobe, 
 and had now returned, a rich man, to end his days 
 among his relations in Dalmatia. 
 
 They had been waiting for me a long time, and 
 had walked some miles on the road to Cattaro to 
 meet me, but were beginning to think I was not 
 going to keep my word. 
 
 We were soon seated together at a comfortable 
 supper, and at half-past two a.m. I was finally 
 allowed to retire to my bed, which Medin had 
 kindly procured for me in a private house — 
 because here, as in Cattaro, there is no hotel of any 
 kind. 
 
 Tired and sleepy as I was, I passed but an in- 
 different night, for, notwithstanding that my room 
 had two large windows overlooking the sea, and that 
 I kept them both open, the heat was perfectly 
 stifling. 
 
 I was just thinking of going out the next 
 morning about ten, when in walked the Baron 
 and Signor Medin, and we at once adjourned for
 
 284 A Restaurant. 
 
 breakfast at the same place where we had supped 
 the previous night ; I say place, as it was neither 
 an inn nor a cafe. How shall I describe it ? The 
 following is the way we got at it, anyhow. In 
 the main street of Budua, near to the land gate, 
 on the left hand as you come in, you meet with 
 five rugged stone steps, flanked by a shaky single 
 iron railing. These lead up to a strong wooden 
 door, which at some period of its existence may 
 have enjoyed the privilege of paint, but of which 
 no trace remains at the present moment, not even 
 enough to enable one to make a guess at the colour 
 it once enjoyed. 
 
 Entering by this door, I found myself in a stuffy, 
 dirty hall, "^ terrem" pervaded by a multitude of 
 vile smells, one more awful than the other, but all 
 so dovetailed and commingled that it was perfectly 
 impossible to tell what the composition was. 
 Turning sharp to the left, we mounted a steep 
 stone staircase, at the top of which we were greeted 
 by the same odour that had met us on entering, 
 in which now the smell of assafoetida and 
 garlic clearly predominated. We found our- 
 selves in the kitchen of the establishment, over
 
 The Fran. 285 
 
 which reigned supreme a good-humoured, fat 
 German Frau of fifty or more, assisted by two 
 bright-eyed, sharp-looking Dalmatian lads, be- 
 grimed with dirt and shining with grease and 
 perspiration. The Frau piloted us through this 
 kitchen, where the heat must have been iio°, if 
 not more, and brought us into the dining-room, 
 a pretty good-sized room with windows round the 
 three sides of it, the furniture consisting solely of 
 one long deal table down the middle, and a score 
 of rush-bottomed chairs around it. At this table 
 were seated a dozen or so of German officers 
 demolishing their "early bit." 
 
 I was here received by the Fraus worse half, 
 a portly man of sixty or thereabouts. His coat 
 was off, but he had on instead a huge pair of silver 
 spectacles. He at once showed me to my seat at the 
 table, when I apologised, through the Baron, to 
 the officers for disturbing them at their break- 
 fast. 
 
 Notwithstanding the unpromising condition of 
 things, the breakfast was excellent; but mine 
 host in the shirt sleeves, with whom I kept up 
 a running conversation in Italian, was even better.
 
 286 Mine Host 
 
 An Italian by birth and education (for he was 
 very well educated), he had rambled all over the 
 Austrian dominions and the Turkish provinces in 
 Europe. He had forgotten most of his native 
 tongue without learning any other, and the jargon 
 he spoke was something marvellous. Still, he 
 varied this pot-pourri according to the nationality 
 of those he addressed. The foundation was 
 always Italian, but if he spoke to an Austrian 
 the German element would predominate, while if 
 he spoke to a Montenegrin the Slave would be 
 in the ascendant. He was a most amusing cha- 
 racter, and combined in himself the functions of 
 doctor, dentist and apothecary, as well as that 
 of keeper of a restaurant in Budua — hence the 
 villainous combination of the odours of a scullery, 
 a kitchen, and a pharmacy. 
 
 In spite of his griminess and the vile odours, 
 I had some very pleasant conversation with him. 
 I found him very well informed, and he gave 
 me a most interesting account of the last descent 
 of the Montenegrins. He had a most uncon- 
 querable horror of my favourite mountaineers, 
 and believed there could be no peace nor pros-
 
 Bud'im. 287 
 
 perity in that part of the world until they should 
 be all exterminated. 
 
 Having finished our breakfast, Heydeg and I 
 strolled outside the walls to where the market is 
 held under some magnificent old carob trees, and 
 there, as at Cattaro, were numbers of Montenegrins 
 disposing of their produce. Here we had some 
 delicious fresh figs, and then lighting our cigars 
 we went round the old fortifications, which are 
 now only just sufficient for protection at night 
 against any sudden incursion of the wild tribes 
 of the interior. Then we had a good bathe in 
 a most delicious little cove, entirely girt round 
 with rocks, and with a sandy bottom that felt 
 like velvet under our feet. We then again lit 
 another cigar, and started on a tour of exploration 
 through this old town. 
 
 Budua, situated at the extreme end of Dalmatia, 
 in what used to be called Northern Albania, is 
 the last Austrian city on the coast of the Adriatic. 
 It is built on a low rocky promontory, and 
 possesses no interest, save in its picturesque 
 appearance, which it derives from its mediaeval 
 walls and machicolated towers — useless, indeed.
 
 288 Streets and ShojJS. 
 
 against a civilized enemy, but still offering some 
 protection against possible irruptions from 
 Albanian freebooters. It is especially picturesque 
 as seen from the sea, with its rugged background 
 of naked mountains. Immediately about it there 
 is some cultivation on the narrow strip of land 
 which lies between the mountains and the sea ; 
 and corn, vines, olive trees, and mulberries for the 
 rearing of silk-worms, are diligently grown. 
 
 Inside, it is not attractive — its streets are 
 extremely narrow, no more than six feet wide 
 in many instances ; they are, however, well paved, 
 and would do well enough, were it not for the 
 utter disregard to cleanliness and drainage. Still 
 there are some wealthy people living there, and 
 many of the houses are very good and sub- 
 stantial. There are several good shops, (perhaps 
 the word stores would best describe them), where 
 a brisk trade seemed to be carried on. The 
 Baron and I poked our way through all the 
 nooks and crannies of the place. We found 
 nothing to invite attention, but a great deal to 
 shock the sight, and even the sense of smell. 
 So we hurried on and went to pay a visit to
 
 The Parting Hour. 289 
 
 my buxom Ballinrobe friend, who had not only 
 quite forgotten her ancestral brogue, but had 
 actually exchanged it for a decided American 
 accent, which, to my ears, was not an improve- 
 ment. She offered us neither English tea nor Irish 
 whiskey punch, but gave us some delicious 
 lemonade and maraschino ; and showed by her 
 manner that, if the brogue was gone, the hearty 
 Irish welcome was there still. 
 
 From thence I went with the Baron to his own 
 little apartment, which opened on to an enchanting 
 little terrace, covered over with a grand '■'■pergola" 
 of vines, under whose refreshing shade we smoked 
 away the time till we should go to dinner. 
 
 We had not been long enjoying an excellent 
 repast at our pharmaceutical (deuced hard name 
 to spell, by-the-by) restaurant when we were 
 informed that the steamer for Corfu was entering 
 the harbour, and would leave in two hours. 
 
 The time for parting had come at last, fresh 
 bottles were tapped, and we all drank each others' 
 health, and a happy journey to me amidst noisy 
 demonstrations and much clinking of glasses. 
 Dinner being at last completed, we all arose and 
 
 u
 
 290 Departure. 
 
 walked in a body to the Mole, where, my 
 luggage having preceded me, I went at once on 
 board. There was no time for lengthy adieux, 
 the steamer was whistling, and almost while we 
 were shaking hands she cast off her moorings, and 
 we were off.
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 TOWN OF ANTIVAEI — FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF TTJEKET — ORIENTAL 
 PASSENGERS — VALUE OF A KNOWLEDGE OF ARABIC OR 
 TURKISH — A MAHOMETAN MERCHANT AND HIS FAMILY — 
 TURKISH TROOPS IN ALBANIA — TOWN AND FORTRESS OF 
 CASTEL DURAZZO — RETURN TO TRIESTE— FAREWELL TO THE 
 READER. 
 
 *^ssi^^^i_FTER leaving Budua we kept close 
 in shore, enjoying the wild rugged 
 scenery of the Dalmatian coast till 
 
 we reached Antivari, where we first came into 
 immediate contact with the Turks on their own 
 Ottoman soil. The first impression, I must confess, 
 was certainly not a favourable one. 
 
 Should any one of my readers, with a bias in 
 
 u 2
 
 292 Antivari. 
 
 favour of Ottomans and Ottoman rule, ever deter- 
 mine on visiting Turkey, let him not receive his 
 first impression of that empire by a visit to 
 Antivari. A few wretched hovels, a miserable 
 white-washed house, with a small and dirty red 
 flag over it; a group of miserably-dressed, vile- 
 countenanced, ragamufiin - looking soldiers, in 
 baggy blue trousers and crimson fezzes, con- 
 stituted all the features of the place. The 
 town of Antivari itself, I heard, was a few 
 miles inland, but if one may judge of the town 
 from its villainous port, it must be wretched in the 
 extreme. 
 
 The steamer remained here a couple of hours 
 to land goods and take in passengers, but as the 
 heat was excessive and the prospect of the couptry 
 most unpromising, I made no attempt to land. I 
 did not however lack entertainment, and while I 
 lounged over the bulwarks on the shady side 
 of the steamer, I amused myself pitching half- 
 francs into the water, which was of very con- 
 siderable depth and of the clearest and limpidest 
 blue, to half a score or so of lads and small boys 
 who were swimming, and diving, and treading the
 
 DncJc-Passengers. 293 
 
 water in the most surprising manner ; they seemed 
 just as much at home in the sea as on the land, 
 and fetched up the coins from the bottom as 
 easily as I could have picked them up from the 
 deck. 
 
 When tired of looking at the swimmers, I 
 turned to watch the new arrivals, of which we 
 had a considerable number, all Orientals, and 
 almost all deck passengers. The first which 
 caught my eye, coming up the side of the steamer, 
 was a wretched-looking, squalid creature, dressed 
 in rags, but most picturesque withal. He was 
 small, slight, and extremely dark, just short of 
 black, but with distinctly Caucasian features, not 
 a negroid by any means. He had a small 
 bundle over his shoulders, and in his right 
 hand he carried a short lance, with a very 
 bright steel head, ornamented with a few lines 
 of Damascene work in gold. His head was 
 covered with a somewhat conical-shaped cap, 
 encircled with a scanty and very ragged green 
 turban, while at his side he carried a moderate 
 sized bottle-gourd. He was a very singular 
 looking being, and all I could make out through
 
 294 Interesting Group. 
 
 the captain was that he thought he was a 
 dervish returning home from visiting some 
 sacred shrine in Mahomedan Europe. A.s 
 to his home, he suspected from his costume 
 it might be in Kurdistan, but it was very- 
 much guess work, as the Captain spoke neither 
 Arabic nor Turkish. 
 
 Another interesting group consisted of three 
 gaily dressed Orientals, in bag trousers tight at 
 the knees, turban, and highly embroidered jackets. 
 They made their way to the quarter-deck abaft 
 the paddle box, and were about being summarily 
 ejected by the steward in consequence of being 
 deck passengers, when I interposed, and got him 
 to let them stay for a while. They perfectly 
 well understood that it was owing to my inter- 
 ference they were allowed to remain, and so we 
 knocked up a sort of acquaintance, and carried 
 on a lame, very lame conversation by the help 
 of the youngest, who could speak a verv few 
 words of Italian. I could not make out any 
 thing about them, whence they came, or whither 
 they were going, but from their features I 
 could easily see they were Asiatics, Arabs most
 
 Truculent- looJcing Oriental. 295 
 
 probably, and the youngest, who was also the 
 lightest in colour, had three scars on each 
 cheek, not unlike in shape to our broad 
 arrow. 
 
 How I longed for a knowledge of Arabic, 
 how I envied Captain Burton ! If he had been 
 there we should at once have known all about them, 
 and the dervish and everyone else, including a 
 tall, handsome Soudani slave, who kept grin- 
 ning and showing his teeth from ear to ear, 
 while I was carrying on my lame conversation with 
 the Arabs. 
 
 Up to this point, Italian and German had 
 enabled me to get on famously ; but now that 
 I was getting among Asiatics, although I was 
 still in Europe, I felt my utter helplessness, 
 and the absolute necessity for a knowledge of 
 the language of the Koran, for those who 
 wish to visit the East with pleasure and 
 profit. 
 
 The whole deck forward was encumbered 
 with passengers. In one corner seated on a 
 pile of luggage, but well bolstered up by rolls 
 of Persian carpets, was a most truculent-looking
 
 296 A Military Officer. 
 
 Oriental, attended by an intelligent-looking young 
 negro, with a most astonishing Caucasian type 
 of countenance. He wore nothing but a white 
 calico sort of shirt with loose sleeves, and a 
 string of red beads round his neck. He had 
 none of the characteristics of the negro except 
 the colour; had I known anything of Arabic, I 
 could most probably have learnt something about 
 his origin. 
 
 In another corner of the deck a Mahomedan 
 merchant (as I was informed he was) had con- 
 trived to screen off a place for himself and his 
 family, one of whom, about three years old, was 
 sprawling stark naked on a rug in the broiling 
 sun, while a closely veiled female, his mother I 
 suppose, was chasing small deer all over his person, 
 which was closely spotted as if with measles — but 
 they were only bites ! 
 
 Quite at the prow of the vessel, somewhat apart, 
 and separated from the rest, was a military officer, 
 evidently of some considerable rank, if one could 
 judge by the orders and stars fastened to his 
 breast, his handsome hilted sabre, and his patent 
 leather boots. He was a heavy morose-looking
 
 TurJdsli Troops. 297 
 
 man of about fifty, with close cropped black beard, 
 blue Turkish uniform, and crimson fez. I was 
 told he was a real pasha, and had with him a 
 suite of two officers and half a dozen soldiers. 
 He was only a deck passenger like the others ; 
 but whether he travelled so from poverty, 
 from motives of economy, or from scorning to 
 associate with the hated and envied Nazarenes, 
 I cannot tell, though I strongly suspect 
 that genuine impecuniosity was the real cause 
 of it. 
 
 The Turkish troops I sav/ in this part of 
 Albania were the most wretched specimens I 
 ever witnessed, small, mean, dirty, disreputable- 
 looking in the extreme, and their officers matched 
 them to perfection. Having remarked on their 
 appearance, I was told by the captain of the 
 steamer not to form an opinion of the Ottoman army 
 by such samples, as they always sent their worst 
 regiments to Albania, and that these wretched 
 troops, both officers and men, were always months in 
 arrears of pay. 
 
 At last every one was on board, the last package 
 was hoisted over the side, and again we were
 
 298 Castel Vurazzo. 
 
 steaming down southwards. The afternoon was 
 very enjoyable, the heat much less, and as 
 the number of cabin passengers was small, we 
 were able to have our supper on deck, which we 
 enjoyed immensely. 
 
 After the meal was concluded, I again went for- 
 ward among the natives, and soon made friends 
 with many of the dusky passengers by means of a 
 few signs; but our conversation was not lively — 
 signs and gesticulations and dumb show were the 
 principal means of conversation — of language we 
 made little or no use. Had I known ever so little 
 of Arabic we could have got on fairly enough — the 
 pantomime of these Orientals being so wonderfully 
 expressive. So I returned to the quarter-deck, 
 where I had some coffee with the captain, and then 
 feeling tired, I went down to my camerino, and 
 was soon asleep. 
 
 On awaking the next morning I found we 
 were at anchor opposite the town and fortress of 
 Castel Durazzo, telling of its Venetian origin by 
 its name. Here we remained a few hours, but the 
 place did not look attractive, and as I did not feel 
 quite " the thing," I did not go on shore, but
 
 Unwelcome Information. 299 
 
 remained on deck looking at the motley groups as 
 they passed up and down. Again we had the usual 
 interchange of passengers and goods, and after a 
 few hours' delay we were just about steaming 
 away when the return steamer from Corfu came 
 alongside of us. 
 
 As chance would have it, it turned out to be 
 the very boat which had brought me down to 
 Cattaro ; and no sooner did the captain spy me 
 out on deck than he shouted that the quarantine had 
 been declared at Corfu against all vessels coming from 
 Trieste, and that if I went on I should be detained 
 to perform fourteen days of quarantine in the 
 Lazzaretto, instead of being allowed to continue 
 my journey on to Constantinople. I asked him 
 to come over, which he did at once, and having 
 held a consultation with the other captain, who 
 entirely agreed with him that I should most cer- 
 tainly be detained a fortnight at Corfu, and be 
 compelled to perform my quarantine in the 
 Lazzaretto, I determined on returning to Trieste. 
 Fourteen days in a Lazzaretto anywhere would be 
 a severe ordeal, but fourteen days of such an 
 imprisonment during the dog-days at Corfu could
 
 300 Badiia. 
 
 not possibly have been faced ; it would not only have 
 been a severe trial of patience in every shape and 
 form, but might have been conducive to serious 
 illness. 
 
 There was no time to be lost, so my luggage 
 was at once put into the captain's boat, and in a 
 few minutes I again found myself on board the 
 old steamer, where Giovanni, the steward, greeted 
 me as if I had been an old friend. 
 
 At sunset we steamed away northward from 
 Castel Durazzo. The captain was delighted to 
 see me again, and Giovanni was most affable, 
 doing his utmost to promote my happiness. 
 But like Rachel of old I would not be comforted, 
 all my plans were thoroughly upset ; I could not 
 bring myself to make fresh arrangements. I was 
 turning my back on my beloved South and I 'was 
 retracing my steps — both things I utterly detested. 
 But non ci era rimedio^ the quarantine and the 
 Lazzaretto I could not face, so there was 
 nothing else to do but resign oneself to the 
 fates. 
 
 The next morning we came abreast of Budua, 
 but I did not land as I did not feel well. I
 
 Attach of Fever. 301 
 
 screwed up mv courage, however, and attempted 
 a little sketch of its castle and harbour, with 
 its blue sea and its background of rocky 
 mountains. After a little, and just as we were 
 leaving the place, I felt worse, so I took some 
 medicine and went to lie down. In two hours 
 more I was in high fever, with a racking pain 
 in my head and back, and I felt my mind almost 
 wandering. We reached the Bocche that evening, 
 but the beauties of the Fjord were lost to me — I 
 lay in my cabin prostrated. Giovanni came 
 instantly to see me, trying to comfort me by 
 telling me I had only caught " la febhre^'' and 
 that I should send for the doctor at Cattaro to 
 get myself bled, and take quinine, when I should 
 be all right. I think that the idea of Giovanni's 
 bringing a doctor and having me bled, nolens 
 volens, roused me up. I made myself some tea, 
 and just as we reached Cattaro I felt much 
 better — the fever had abated, and now, said I, 
 is the time to take the quinine. 
 
 I had brought lots of it with me, so I measured 
 out as much as I could pile upon a shilling, and 
 bolted it. It certainly cut short the disease, as
 
 302 Gravosa. 
 
 the fever did not set in again ; but I was not 
 well for many days after, and even when I 
 arrived at Trieste I felt quite weak and out 
 of sorts. 
 
 The next morning early we left Cattaro, and 
 in the afternoon got to Gravosa. I felt somewhat 
 better, and hearing that Consul Paton, who was 
 then alive, and his family were in a villa just opposite 
 to where the steamer was moored, I took a boat and 
 spent two delightful hours with them, till the 
 steam-whistle told me how quickly the time 
 had flown. I reluctantly made my adieux, and 
 soon was steaming out of the harbour. 
 
 It wanted scarcely an hour of sunset : the sun 
 was low in the horizon — all the lights and 
 shades were the more intensely marked, while 
 the constantly changing tints, from brightest rose 
 and golden yellow to the deepest violets and 
 blues, created such a fairy scene that I would not 
 venture to describe it. 
 
 I was in the fullest enjoyment of that sunset, 
 gazing on where the sun was just dipping into 
 the sea, sending a flood of golden light along the 
 surface from himself to us, when the captain
 
 Trieste. 303 
 
 tapped me on the shoulder, saying, ^'Fada giu, you 
 had la fehbre last night ; don't expose yourself 
 to the air al tramonto ;" so I took his advice, 
 and went down below, notwithstanding the heat, 
 and so ended the 23rd day of July ! 
 
 The following day saw us at Lesina and at 
 Curzola, and again at Lissa. The day after 
 brought us abreast of Spalato, where again I 
 enjoyed a couple of hours' ramble among those 
 glorious ruins. Then we cruised through the 
 countless islands near the mouth of the Ouarnero, 
 and finally reached Trieste, where, after having 
 enjoyed two pleasant days with Captain Burton 
 and his charming and talented lady, I turned my 
 steps towards home. 
 
 Here I take my leave of the reader. If he shall 
 be disappointed with my style and my many short- 
 comings I shall not be surprised ; but I shall be 
 disappointed indeed if, following a somewhat 
 similar track to the one I have been tracing, 
 only penetrating, if possible, more into Servia 
 proper, and going across it from the Danube to 
 the Adriatic, he shall not feel himself amply re-
 
 304 Fareivell to the Reader. 
 
 paid by having taken my advice in visiting 
 those countries which I have endeavoured to 
 describe. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 LondfJii : Printed by A. SchulKC, 13, Poland Street.
 
 MESSRS. HURST & BLACKETT'S 
 i^ebj publications.
 
 13, Great Marlborough Street. 
 
 MESSRS. HUEST AND BLACKETrS 
 
 LIST OF NEW WORKS. 
 
 OUR BISHOPS AND DEANS. By the Rev. F. 
 
 Arnold, B.A., late of Christ Church, Oxford. 2 volumes demy 
 
 8vo. 30s. 
 " My object in this work has been to give an impartial view of the present state 
 of the Church of England, its condition and its prospects, the great names and the 
 remarkable movements that have emerged within its borders. I have endeavoured 
 to give sketches, free from all party bias, of our present Bishops and Deans, so 
 far as they illustrate the ecclesiastical and literary history of our own day and the 
 remarkable phenomena of Eitualism and Rationalism." — Extract from the Dedi- 
 cation. 
 
 A BOOK ABOUT THE TABLE. By J. C. 
 
 Jeaffreson, Author of "A Book about Doctors," "Lawyers," 
 " The Clergy," &c. 2 vols. 8vo. 30s. 
 Peincipal Contents :— Grace at Meals; Britons at Table; Antique Feasting; 
 Apician Precepts ; The Form of Cury; Culinary Colourists ; Death in the Pot 
 and Dish Covers; Mediaeval Menus; Warners and Subtleties, Ancient and 
 Modern ; Carving and Carvers ; Forks and Napery ; Horn, Bell, and Gong 
 Manners and the Want of them ; Spits and Jacks ; Cruelties and Curiosities ; 
 Numbers at Table ; Soup ; Pish ; Joints and Steaks ; Pie and Pie Tart : Poultry ; 
 Goose; Game; Bread and Vegetables; The Salad: Eggs; Dessert; Ordering of 
 Feasts ; Cook Shops and Club Houses ; The Folk Lore of Feeding ; Epicures ; 
 Political Gastronomy ; Cooks and their Natures ; Cookery Books. 
 
 " This book is readable and amusing from first to last. No one ought to be 
 without it. No point of interest concerning the table or its appurtenances is left 
 untouched. Bacy anecdotes coruscate on every page." — Morning Post. 
 
 " Mr. Jeaffreson chats pleasantly about meats and manners. We cordially 
 recommend to every class of readers his very amusing and instructive volumes. 
 They are racy in style, rich in anecdote, and full of good sense." — Standard. 
 
 "In Mr. Jeaffreson's 'Book about the Table,' the whole science and art of gas- 
 tronomy are illustrated with everything bearing upon the subject. Mr. Jeaffreson 
 is always entertaining, and in these volumes he may claim to be also insti-uctive." 
 — Daily News. 
 
 " We leave Mr. Jeaffreson's book to its public, only remarking that where the 
 author has gone over beaten ground, he pleasantly awakens old memories, and 
 where he beats fresh covers, he procures for us abundant sport" — Athenaeum. 
 
 " A reada.ble and amusing book about the curiosities and antiquities of gour- 
 mandise, embracing all that bears upon dining, from the grace before meat to the 
 roll of cookery-books and their authors, duly served up with an appropriate spice 
 of jest and anecdote." — Graphic. 
 
 " This work ought to be in every library and on every drawing-room and club 
 table, as one of the most delightful and readable books of the day. It is fuU of 
 information, interest, and amusement.'' — Court Journal. 
 
 " The best book Mr. Jeaffreson has produced. It surpasses in information and 
 amusement all English works upon the table hitherto printed" — Sunday Times. 
 
 "Two capital volumes, full of pleasant reading on a subject which has mora 
 or less interest for every reader." — Scotsman. 
 
 " A most readable book, singularly appropriate for Christmas.' — Publisher's 
 Circular. 
 
 " As entertaining and clever a book as ever was written." — Messenger.
 
 13, Grkat Marlborough Street. 
 
 MESSRS. HURST AND BLACKETT'S 
 
 NEW WORKS— Co?itinuecl 
 
 HISTORY OF TWO QUEENS: CATHARINE 
 
 OF ARAGON and ANNE BOLEYN. By W. Hepworth Dixon. 
 
 Second Edition. Vols. 1 & 2. Demy 8vo. 30s. 
 
 "In two handsome volumes Blr. Dixon here gives us the first instalment of a 
 new historical work on a most attractive subject. The book is in many respects a 
 favourable specimen of Mr. Dixon's powers. It is the most painstaking and 
 
 elaborate that he has yet written On the whole, we may say that the book 
 
 is one which will sustain the reputation of its author as a writer of great power 
 and versatilitj% that it gives a naw aspect to many an old subject, and presents in 
 a very striking light some of the most recent discoveries in English history." — 
 Atlu!)ixum. 
 
 " In these volumes the author exhibits in a signal manner his special powers 
 and finest endowments. It is obvious that the historian has been at especial pains 
 to justify his reputation, to strengthen his hold upon the learned, and also to 
 extend his sway over the many who prize an attractive style and interesting narra- 
 tive more highly than laborious research and philosophic insight." — Moriniig Post. 
 
 " The thanks of all students of English history are due to Mr. Hepworth Dixon 
 for his clever and original work, 'History of two Queens.' The book is a valuable 
 contribution to English history. The author has consulted a number of original 
 sources of information — in particular the archives at Simancas, Alcala, and Venice. 
 Mr. Dixon is a skilful writer. His style, singularly vivid, graphic, and dramatic — 
 is alive with human and artistic interest. Some of the incidental descriptions 
 veach a very high level of picturesque power." — Daily News. 
 
 "Mr. Hepworth Dixon, in his new work, has chosen a theme at once intrinsi- 
 cally interesting and admirably fit for illustration by his practised and brilliant 
 pen. The lives of Catharine of Aragon and Anne Boleyn give ample scope to a 
 writer so clear and vivid in his descriptions, so lifelike in his portraiture, so de- 
 cided in his judgment, and whose sparkling vivacity of style can be shaded off, 
 when necessary, by such delicate touches of tenderness and pathos. For pleasant 
 reading and very effective writing we can warmly commend Mr. Dixon's volumes." 
 Daily Telegraph. 
 
 " Two fascinating volumes. It is a work of careful criticism and conscientious 
 investigation." — Standard. 
 
 VOLS. HI. & IV. OP THE HISTORY OF TWO 
 
 QUEENS: CATHARINE OF ARAGON and ANNE BOLEYN. 
 By W. Hkpworth Dixon. Second Edition. Demy 8vo. Price 30s. 
 Completing the Work. 
 
 "These concluding volumes of Blr. Dixon's 'Hisiory of two Queens ' will be per- 
 used with keen interest by thousands of readers. Whilst no less valuable to the 
 student, they will be far more enthraiUing to the general reader than the earlier 
 half of the history. Everj' page of what may be termed Anne Boleyn's story affords 
 a happy illustration of the author's vivid and picturesque style. The work should 
 be found in every library." — Post. 
 
 " Mr. Dixon has pre-eminently the art of interesting his readers. He has pro- 
 duced a narrative of considerable value, conceived in a spirit of fairness, and 
 written with power and picturesque effect." — Daily News. 
 
 " Mr. Dixon has completed in these volumes the two stories which he has narrat- 
 ed with so much grace and vigour. Better still, he has cast the light of truth upon 
 incidents that have not lieen seen under that light before. Full of romantic and 
 dramatic sentiment as the story of Catharine is, we think that the more absorbing 
 interest is concentrated in the story of Anne Boleyn. Never has it been told so 
 fully, so fairly, or so attractively." — Note^ and Queries. 
 
 " This work throughout bears evidence of great research ; and in the hands of 
 a writer of Mr. Dixon's talents, a book on such a subject of course could not 
 fail to be interesting. He has availed himself of all the newest lights brought out 
 by the publications of the Master of the Kolls." — Athenieum. 
 
 "Mr. Dixon's book is written in a most charming style. Moreover, it is written 
 as all history should be written ; the precision of the annalist being combined with 
 the connexion and ease of the simple narrator." — Examimr.
 
 13, Great Marlborough Street. 
 
 MESSRS. HURST AND BLACKETT'S 
 NEW WOB.KS— Continued. 
 
 COSITAS ESPANOLAS ; OR, Every-day Life in 
 
 Spain. By Mrs. Harvey, of IckweU-Bury, Author of " Turkish 
 Harems and Ch-cassian Homes." 1 vol. 8vo. 15s. 
 
 RAMBLES IN ISTRIA, DALMATIA, and MON- 
 
 TENEGRO. By R. H. R. 1 vol. 8vo. 14s. 
 
 ON THE WING ; A Southern Flight. By the 
 
 Hon. Mrs. Alfred JIontgomert. 1 vol. 8vo. 14s. 
 
 "An entertaining and instructive work." — Examiner. 
 
 " Mrs. Montgomery has given us a most entertaining and instnictive work, which 
 holds the attention spell-bomid from the first page to the last. The volume con- 
 tains the following chapters : — La Belle Provence, Monaco, Bologna, Florence, 
 Kome, Naples and the Neapolitans, Lights and Shades of Italian Life, Pompeii, 
 Sorrento, Capri, AmaLfl, &o. We can scarcely find words to express our admiration 
 of the manner in which Mrs. Montgomery has told all she saw and felt during the 
 time she passed in the loveliest parts of Europe. The book is the best, as being 
 the most original, luminous, and fresh work ever written on such themes." — Court 
 Journal. 
 
 WILD LIFE IN FLORIDA ; With a Visit to Cuba. 
 
 By Captain F. T. Townshend, F.R.G.S., 2nd Life Guards, Author 
 of " Ten Thousand Miles of Travel," &c. 1 vol. 8vo, with Map 
 and Illustrations. 15s. bound. 
 
 " Captain Townshend has given us a volume decidedly above the average of 
 bookg of mingled travel and sport He writes in an easy, pleasant fashion." — 
 Atlimceum. 
 
 " This book is brightly and pleasantly written." — Pall Mall Gazette. 
 
 "Whoever takes up this book will not lay it down till he has read it all through. 
 Captain Townshend's descriptions are everywhere vivid, reliable, and pleasant 
 reading ; and the shooting chapters tell of ' bags ' of flying game and of tussles 
 with large animals, such as are capable of making the British sportsman's mouth 
 water. There is a good deal of valuable political and social information given 
 about Florida and the parts adjacent, and a highly instructive chapter on the 
 actual working of negro slavery and coolie ' Free Labour ' in Cuba." — United 
 Service Gazette. 
 
 " Captain Townshend presents us with a striking and graphic account of ' Wild 
 Life in Florida,' embodying the most exact and latest information concerning that 
 state. He has written a vei-y stirring, readable and interesting book. His 
 description of Cuba forms not the least interesting jjortion of it." — Sunday Times. 
 
 " Captain Townshend's work is instructive and entertaining. It contains chap- 
 ters for all readers, racy nan'atives, abundance of incident, compendious history, 
 important statistics, and many a page which will be perused with pleasure by the 
 sportsman and naturalist." — Court Journal. 
 
 "Captain Townshend enjoys a good reputation as a traveller. His book is one 
 eminently worth perusal There is not a little information on the geography and 
 natm-al history, the resources and society of Florida, to be gathered from the 
 volume, which is intelligently and picturesquely written." — Standard. 
 
 " Captain Townshend is a man of good pluck, good sense, and good humour, all 
 of which qualities are manifested in his book entitled ' Wild Life in Florida.' He 
 paid a visit of some length to Florida, took part in many fleld sports there, and 
 describee in this volume all his experiences. The book is illustrated by a map and 
 engravings, and will be appreciated by all those who know what a good book of 
 travel is." — Sivtsman. 
 
 3
 
 13, Great Maklborough Street. 
 
 MESSRS. HURST AND BLACKETT'S 
 NEW WOTvK^— Continued. 
 
 LIFE OF THE RT. HON. SPENCER PERCEVAL ; 
 
 Including His Correspondence. By His Grandson, Spencer Wal- 
 POLE. 2 vols. 8vo, with Portrait. 30s. 
 
 This work contains Letters from the King, the Prince Eegent, the Dukes of Cum- 
 berland, Wellington, Portland, Bichmond; Lords Liverpool, Grenville, Grey, 
 Loughborough, Spencer, Wellesley, Lonsdale, Castlereagh ; Mr. Pitt, Mr. Adding- 
 ton, Mr. Canning, and other distinguished men. 
 
 " Mr. Walpole's work reflects credit not only on his industry in compiling an 
 important biography from authentic material, but also on his eloquence, power of 
 interpretmg political change, and general literary address. The biography will take 
 rank in our literature, both as a faithful reflection of the statesman and his period, 
 as also for its philosophic, logical, and dramatic completeness." — Morning Post. 
 
 " In Mr. Perceval's biography his grandson has undoubtedly made a valuable 
 addition to our Parliamentary history. The book is full of interest." — Daily News. 
 
 '■ We thank Mr. Walpole for a very valuable and interesting biography, and for 
 doing justice to the memory of one who has too long been without it." — Standard. 
 
 " As a contribution to political and Parliamentary history Mr. Spencer Walpole's 
 work possesses considerable value." — Saturday Review. 
 
 LIFE OF MOSCHELES ; with Selections from 
 
 HIS DIARIES AND CORRESPONDENCE. By His Wife. 
 Adapted from the German by Artecur Duke Coleridge. 2 vols, 
 large post 8vo, with Portrait. 24:S. 
 
 " This life of Moscheles will be a valuable book of reference for the musical his- 
 torian, for the contents extend over a period of threescore years., commencing with 
 1794, and ending at 1870. We need scarcely state that all the portions of Mosche- 
 les' diary which refer to his intercourse with Beethoven, Hummel, Weber, Czemy, 
 Spontini, Rossini, Auber, Halevy, Schumann, Cherubini, Spohr, Mendelssohn, F. 
 David, Chopin, J B. Cramer. Clementi, John Field, Habeneck, Hauptmann, Kalk- 
 brenner, Kiesewetter, O. Klingemann, Lablache, Dragonetti, Sontag, Persian!, 
 Malibran, Paganini, Kachel, Konzi de Begnis, De Beriot, Ernst, Donzelli, Cinti- 
 Damoreau, Chelard, Bochsa, Laporte, Charles Kemble, Paton (Mrs. Wood), 
 SchrUder-Devrient, Mrs. Siddons, .Sir H. Bishop, Sir G. Smart, Staudigl, Thalberg, 
 Berlioz, Velluti, 0. Young, Balfe, Braham, and many other artists of note in their 
 time, will recall a flood of recollections. It was a delicate task for Madame Mos- 
 cheles to select from the diaries in reference to living persons, but her extracts have 
 been judiciously made. Moscheles writes fairly of what is called the ' Music of the 
 Future ' and its disciples, and his judgments on Herr Wagner, Dr. Liszt, Kuben- 
 Btein, Dr. von Billow, Litolff, &c., whether as composers or executants, are in & 
 liberal spirit. He recognizes cheerfully the talents of our native artists, Sir Stem- 
 dale Bennett, Mr. Macfarren, Madame Arabella Goddard, Mr. John Barnett, Mr. 
 Hullah, Mrs. Shaw, Mr. A. Sullivan, &c. The celebrities with whom Moscheles 
 came in contact, include Sir Walter Scott, Sir Robert Peel, the late Duke of Cam- 
 bridge, the Bunsens, Louis Philippe, Napoleon the Third, Humboldt, Henry Heine, 
 Thomas More, Count Nesselrode, the Duchess of Orleans, Prof. Wolf, &c. In- 
 deed, the two volumes are full of amusing anecdotes." — Athenaeum. 
 
 " The publication of these memoirs will give satisfaction to many of our readers. 
 The devotees of music in this country are both numerous and earnest. By this 
 class these volumes will be hailed with particular delight; but they will be accept- 
 able also to a far wider circle — to all who enjoy a sonata at home or a symphony 
 in the concert-room. The scope of the work gives it this popular interest, apart 
 from the technical value it possess. It is as well 'a record of the life of Moscheles' 
 as 'a chronicle of the musical history of his time' — a period of sixty years." — Times. 
 
 " This work is full of interesting information and pleasant gossip about the 
 musical events of the last half-century. Moscheles kept up to the day of his 
 death a diary, in which he recorded all his experiences, and his constant inter- 
 course with such men as Beethoven, Weber, Mendelssohn, and Schumann, enabled 
 him to collect a mass of facts and anecdotes which throw much valuable light on 
 recent musical history." — Pall Mall Gazette.
 
 13, Great Marlbokough Street. 
 
 MESSRS. HUKST AND BLACKETT'S 
 NEW WORKS— Contmued. 
 
 WORDS OF HOPE AND COMFORT TO 
 
 THOSE IN SORROW. Dedicated by Permission to The Queen. 
 Third Edition. 1 vol. small 4to, 5s. bound. 
 
 "These letters, the work of a pure and devout spirit, deserve to find many 
 readers. They are greatly superior to the average of what is called religious 
 literature." — Athenaeum. 
 
 "The writer of the tenderly-conceived letters in this volume was Mrs. Julius 
 Hare, a sister of Mr. Maurice. They are instinct with the devout submissivenesa 
 and fine sympathy which we associate with the name of Maurice ; hut in her there 
 is added a winnlngness of tact, and sometimes, too, a directness of language, which 
 we hardly find even in the brother. The letters were privately printed and circu- 
 lated, and were found to be the source of much comfort, which they cannot fail 
 to afford now to a wide cu'cle. A sweetly-conceived memorial poem, bearing 
 the well-known initials, 'E. H. P.', gives a very faithful outline of the life." — Britith 
 Quarterly Review. 
 
 " This touching and most comforting work is dedicated to The Queen, who took 
 a gracious interest in its first appearance, when printed for private circulation, and 
 found comfort in its pages, and has now commanded its publication, that the 
 world in general may profit by it. A more practical and heart-stirring appeal to 
 the afQicted we have never examined." — Standard. 
 
 " These letters are exceptionally graceful and touching, and may be read with 
 profit." — Graphic. 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF SOCIETY IN FRANCE 
 
 AND ENGLAND. By Lady Clementina Da vies. 2«c? Edition. 2 v. 
 
 Among numerous other distinguished persons referred to in this work are : — Louis 
 XVI, Marie Antoinette, Louis XVIII, the Duchesse D'Angouleme, Napoleon I, 
 the Empress Josephine, Queen Hortense, Charles X, Louis Philippe, the Duke 
 and Duchess de Berry, the Count de Chambord, the Emperor Alexander, King 
 Frederic William, Prince Talleyrand, Prince Esterhazy, Blucher, Ney, Soult, 
 Fouche, the Polignacs, Talma, Napoleon III, the Empress Eugenie, the Due 
 de Horny, Count d'Orsay, Victor Hugo, George IV, Queen Caroline, Prince 
 Leopold, the Princess Charlotte, the Duke of York, the Duke of Wellington, 
 Lord Byron, Sir Walter Scott, Sir H. Davy, Tom Moore, Mr. Barham, Mrs. Sid- 
 dons, the Kembles, Mrs. Jordan, Miss Stephens, Mile. Mars, Madame Catalan!, 
 Mile. Kachel, the Countess Guiccioli, Lady Cork, Lady Blessington, &c. 
 " Lady Clementina Davies's opportunities were excellent, and the very tradi- 
 tions of her family are fraught with interest. Some of her local and personal 
 impressions are as graphic and distinct as if they had been — so to speak — photo- 
 graphed on her memory." — The Times. 
 
 " Two charming volumes, full of the most interesting and entertaining matter, 
 and written in plain, elegant English. Lady Clementina Davies has seen much, 
 heard much, and remembered well. Her unique and brilliant recollections have the 
 interest of a romance, wherein no character is fictitious, no incident untrue." — Post. 
 
 SPAIN AND THE SPANIARDS. By Azamat 
 
 Batuk. 2 vols, crown 8vo. 21s. 
 
 " Here is at last a book on Spain of the kind we have been asking for. Azamat 
 Batuk fills his pages with his personal experiences among the armed factious who 
 are contesting the government of the country, and describes the men who have 
 made themselves conspicuous. Altogether, his gallery of contemporary portraits 
 is alone sufficient to recommend his book." — Saturday Review. 
 
 " By the aid of this really entertaining book may the Cosas de Espana of the mo- 
 ment be brought before the mind's eye It would be too much to say that this 
 
 is the most interesting book upon Spain and the Spaniards that has appeared 
 of late years, but many may think so after reading it." — Athenseum. 
 
 "A highly interesting and amusing book. In this work Azamat Batuk has 
 made himself more enjoyable and readable than ever." — Examiner.
 
 ] ii, Great Marlboroogh Street. 
 
 MESSRS. HURST AND BLACKETT'S 
 NEW WOnKS—Co7itmued. 
 
 VOLS. I. & II. OF HER MAJESTY'S TOWER. 
 
 By W. HEPWORTH DIXON. DEDICATED BY EXPRESS 
 
 PERMISSION TO THE QUEEN. Sixth Edition. 8vo. 30s. 
 
 Contents :— The Pile— Inner Ward and Outer Ward— The Wharf— Kiver Eights— 
 The White Tower — Charles of Orleans— Uncle Gloucester — Prison Rules — Beau- 
 champ Tower— The good Lord Cobhani— King and Cardinal— The Pilgrimage 
 of Grace— Madge Cheyne— Heirs to the Crown— The Nine Days' Queen— De- 
 throned — The Men of Kent — Courtney — No Cross no Crown — Cranmer, Lati- 
 mer, Eidley — White Eoses — Princess Margaret — Plot and Counterplot — Mon- 
 sieur Charles — Bishop of Eoss — Murder of Northumberland — Philip the Con- 
 fessor — Mass in the Tower — Sir Walter Ealeigh — The Arabella Plot — 
 Ealeigh's Walk— The Villain Waad— The Garden House— The Brick Tower 
 — The Anglo-Spanish Plot — Factions at Court— Lord Grey of Wilton — 
 Old English Catholics— The English Jesuits— White Webbs— The Priests' Plot 
 — Wilton Court — Last of a Noble Line — Powder-Plot Eoom — Guy Fawkes — 
 Origin of the Plot — Vinegar House — Conspiracy at Large — The Jesuit's Move- 
 In London — November, 1G05 — Hunted Down — In the Tower — Search for Gar- 
 net-End of the English Jesuits— The Catholic Lords— Harry Percy — The 
 Wizard Earl — A Eeal Arabella Plot— William Seymour — The Escape — Pursuit 
 — Dead in the Tower — Lady Frances Howard — EobertCarr — Powder Poisoning 
 
 From the Times: — "All the civilized world — English, Continental, and Ame- 
 rican — takes an interest in the Tower of London. The Tower is the stage 
 upon which has been enacted some of the grandest dramas and saddest tragedies 
 in our national annals. If, iri imagination, we take our stand on those time-worn 
 walls, and let century after century flit past us, we shall see in duo succession the 
 majority of the most famous men and lov-ely women of England in the olden time. 
 We shall see them jesting, jousting, love-making, plotting, and then anon, per- 
 haps, commending their souls to God in the presence of a hideous masked figure, 
 bearing an axe in his hands. It is such pictures as these that Mr. Dixon, with 
 considerable skill as an historical limner, has set before us in these volumes. Mr. 
 Dixon dashes off the scenes of Tower history with great spirit. His descriptions 
 are given with such terseness and vigour that we should spoil them by any attempt 
 at condensation. As favourable examples of his narrative powers we may call at- 
 tention to the story of the beautiful but unpopular Elinor, Queen of Henry III., and 
 the description of Anne Boleyn's first and second arrivals at the Tower. Then we 
 have the story of the bold Bishop of Durham, who escapes by the aid of a cord 
 hidden in a wine-jar; and the tale of Maud Fitzwalter, imprisoned and murdered 
 by the caitiff John. Passing onwards, we meet Charles of Orleans, the poetic 
 Fi-ench Prince, captured atAgincourt, and detained for five-and-twenty years a 
 prisoner in the Tower. Next wo encounter the baleful form of Eichard of Gloucester, 
 and are filled with indignation at the blackest of the black Tower deeds. As we 
 draw nearer to modern times, we have the sorrowful story of the Nine Days' 
 Queen, poor little Lady Jane Grey. The chapter entitled "No Cross, no Crown " 
 is one of the most affecting in the book. A mature man can scarcely read it with- 
 out feeling the tears ready to trickle from his eyes. No part of the first volume 
 yields in interest to the chapters which are devoted to the story of Sir Walter 
 Ealeigh. The greater part of the second volume is occupied with the story of the 
 Gunpowder Plot. The narrative is extremely interesting, and will repay perusal. 
 Another cause celebre possessed of a perennial interest, is the murder of Sir 'Thomaa 
 Overbury by Lord and Lady Somerset. Mr. Dixon tells the tale skilfully. In con- 
 clusion, we may congratulate the author on this work. Both volumes are decided- 
 ly attractive, and throw much light on our national history." 
 
 "From first to last this work overflows with new information and original 
 thought, with poetry and picture. In these fascinating pages Mr. Dixon dis- 
 charges altei-nately the functions of the historian, and the historic biographer, with 
 the insight, art, humour and accurate knowledge which never fail him when he 
 undertakes to illumine the darksome recesses of our national story." — Morning Post. 
 
 "We earnestly recommend this remarkable work to those in quest of amuse- 
 ment and instruction, at once solid and refined."— iJaiVj/ Telegraph.
 
 13, Great Marlborough Stuekt. 
 
 MESSRS. HURST AND BLACKETT'S 
 
 NEW WORKS— Continued. 
 
 VOLS. III. & IV. OP HER MAJESTY'S TOWER. 
 
 By W. HEPWORTH DIXON. DEDICATED BY EXPRESS 
 PERMISSION TO THE QUEEN. Completing the Work, r/drd 
 Edition. Demy 8vo. 30s. 
 
 Contents : — A Favourite ; A Favourite's Friend ; The Countess of Suffolk ; To the 
 Tower ; Lady Catherine Manners ; House of Villiers ; Kevolution ; Fall of Lord 
 Bacon; A Spanish Match; Spaniolizing; Henry De Vere ; The Matter of Hol- 
 land ; Sea Affairs ; The Pirate War ; Port and Court ; A New Eomanzo ; Move 
 and Counter-move ; Pirate and Prison ; In the Marshalsea ; The Spanish Olive ; 
 Prisons Opened; A Parliament; Digby, Earl of Bristol; Turn of Fortune; Eliot 
 Eloquent; Felton's Knife; An Assassin; Nine Gentlemen in the Tower; A 
 King's Revenge ; Charles L ; Pillars of State and Church ; End of Wentworth ; 
 Laud's Last Troubles ; The Lieutenant's House ; A Political Romance ; Phi- 
 losophy at Bay; Fate -of an Idealist; Britannia; Killing not Murder; A Second 
 Buckingham ; Roger, Earl of Castlemaine ; A Life of Plots ; The Two Penns ; 
 A Quaker's Cell ; Colonel Blood ; Crown Jewels , King and Colonel ; Rye House 
 Plot ; Murder ; A Patriot ; The Good Old Cause ; James, Duke of Monmouth ; 
 The Unjust Judge ; The Scottish Lords ; The Countess of Nithisdale ; Escaped, 
 Cause of the Pretender; Reformers and Reform , Reform Riots ; Sir Francis 
 Burdett; A Summons to the Tower; Arttur Thistlewood; A Cabinet Council 
 Cato Street ; Pursuit ; Last Prisoners in the Tower. 
 
 " Mr. Dixon's lively and accurate work." — Times. 
 
 " This book is thoroughly entertaining, well-written, and instructive." — Examiner. 
 
 " These volumes will place Mr. Dixon permanently on the roll of English authors 
 who have rendered their country a seivice, by his putting on record a truthful and 
 brilliant account of that most popular and instructive I'elic of antiquity. ' Her 
 Majesty's Tower;' the annals of which, as related in these volumes, are by turns 
 exciting and amusing, while they never fail to interest. Our ancient stronghold 
 could have had no better historian than Mr. Dixon." — Post. 
 
 "By his merits of literai-y execution, his vivacious portraitures of historical 
 figures, his masterly powers of narrative and description, and the force and grace- 
 ful ease of his style, Mr. Dixon will keep his hold upon a multitude of readers."— 
 Illustrated Ifeics. 
 
 " These volumes are two galleries of richly painted poi-traits of the noblest 
 men and most brilliant women, besides others commemorated by English 
 history. The grand old Royal Keep, palace and prison by turns, is revivified iu 
 these volumes, which close the narrative, extending from the era of Sir John Eliot, 
 who saw Raleigh die in Palace Yard, to that of Thistlewood, the last prisoner ini- 
 mured in the Tower. Few works are given to us, in these days, so abundant in 
 originality and research as Mr. Dixon's.' — Standard. 
 
 HISTORY OF WILLIAM PENN, Founder of 
 
 Pennsylvania. By W. Hepworth DrxoN. A New Library Edition. 
 1 vol. demy 8vo, ■with Portrait. 12s. 
 
 " Mr. Dixon's ' William Penn ' is, perhaps, the best of his books. He has now re- 
 vised and issued it with the addition of much fresh matter. It is now offered in a 
 sumptuous volume, matching with Mr. Dixon's recent books, to a new generation of 
 readers, who will thank Mr. Dixon for his interesting and instructive memoir of 
 one of the worthies of England." — Examiner. 
 
 " ' William Penn ' is a tine and noble work. Eloquent, picturesque, and epigra- 
 matic in style, subtle and philosophical in insight, and moderate and accurate in 
 statement, it is a model of what a biography ought to be." — Sunday Times. 
 
 "The character of this great Christian Englishman, William Penn, a true hero 
 of moral and civil conquests, is one of the fairest iu modern histoiy, and may be 
 studied with profit by his countrymen of all ages. This biography of him now 
 finally put into shape as a standard work of its kind, is Mr. Dixon's most usefu 
 production. Few books have a more genial and wholesome intereBt, or convey 
 more beneficial instruction." — Illustrated jyews.
 
 13, Great Marlborough Street. 
 
 MESSRS. HURST AND BLACKETT'S 
 TUBLlCATlOm— Continued. 
 
 NOTES OF TRAVEL. By the late J. C. Anders- 
 
 SON', Author of " Lake Ngami," " The Okavango River," &c. 
 Edited by L. Lloyd, Author of " Field Sports of the North of 
 Europe." 1 vol. 8vo. With Portrait. (Tn the Press.) 
 
 THROUGH RUSSIA: From St. Petersburg to 
 
 ASTRAKHAN AND THE CRIMEA. By Mrs. Guthrie. 2 vols, 
 crown 8vo, with Illustrations. 21s. 
 
 "Mrs. Guthrie is a lively, observant, well-informed, and agreeable travelling 
 companion. Her book is interesting throughout." — Pall Mall Gazette. 
 
 " No book of travel within our knowledge is pleasanter to read than ' Through 
 Kussia.' It is fresh, bright, and comprehensive. Mrs. Guthrie gives us admir- 
 able descriptions of St. Petersburg, Moscow, and Astrakhan, and the voyages on 
 the Volga and the Don are full of incident, character, and observation." — Spectator. 
 
 " A pleasant book to read. It contains a fair, and often very picturesque descrip- 
 tion of a part of Russia by no means familiar to tourists." — Saturday Review. 
 
 TURKISH HAREMS & CIRCASSIAN HOMES. 
 
 By Mrs. Harvey, of Ickwell Bury. 8vo. Second JEdition. 15s. 
 " Mrs. Harvey not only saw a great deal, but saw all that she did see to the 
 best advantage. In noticing the intrinsic interest of Mrs. Harvey's book, we must 
 not forget to say a word for her ability as a writer." — Times. 
 
 FREE RUSSIA. By W. Hepworth Dixon. Third 
 
 Edition 2 vols. 8vo, with Coloured Illustrations. 30s. 
 
 "Mr. Dixon's book will be certain not only to interest but to please its readers 
 and it deserves to do so. It contains a great deal that is worthy of attention, and 
 is likely to produce a very useful effect The ignorance of the English people 
 with respect to Eussia has long been so dense that we cannot avoid b^ng grateful 
 to a writer who has taken the trouble to make personal acquaintance with that 
 Beldom-visited land, and to bring before the eyes of his coimtrymen a picture of 
 its scenery and its people, which is so novel and interesting that it can scarcely 
 fail to arrest their attention." — Saturday Review. 
 
 MEMOIRS OF QUEEN HORTENSE, MOTHER 
 
 OF NAPOLEON III. Cheaper Edition, in 1 vol. 6s. 
 " A biography of the beautiful and unhappy Queen, more satisfactory than any we 
 have yet met with." — Daily News. 
 
 THE LITERARY LIFE OF THE REV. WIL- 
 LIAM HARNESS, Vicar of AU Saints, Knightsbridge, and Pre- 
 bendary of St. Paul's. By the Rev. A. G. L'Estrange. 8vo. 15s. 
 
 LIFE AND LETTERS OF WILLIAM BEWICK, 
 
 THE ARTIST. Edited by Thomas Landseer, A.R.A. 2 vols. 
 
 THE EXILES AT ST. GERMAINS. By the 
 
 Author of " The Ladye Shakerley." 1 vol. 7s. 6d. bound. 
 " ' The Exiles at St. Germains ' is an excellent attempt to depict the life of the 
 latter Stuarts while they lived under the protection of the Lilies of France. The 
 author is that skilled penwoman who wrote ' The Ladye Shakerley,' and she has 
 Bcized fully the spirit of the Stuart age. 'The Exiles at St. Germains ' will be 
 every whit as popular as 'The Ladye Shakerley.'"— /Starirfard. 
 
 8
 
 13, Great Marlbobodqh {Street. 
 
 MESSRS. HURST AND BLACKETT'S 
 VUBLlCATlOm— Continued. 
 
 WORKS BY THE AUTHOR OF 'JOHN HALIFAX. 
 
 Each in One Volume, elegantly printed, bound, and illustrated, price 5s. 
 
 JOHN HALIFAX, GENTLEMAN. 
 
 A woman's thoughts 
 
 ABOUT WOMEN. 
 A LIFE FOR A LIFE. 
 NOTHING NEW. 
 MISTRESS AND MAID. 
 
 CHRISTIAN S MISTAKE. 
 
 A NOBLE LIFE. 
 
 HANNAH. 
 
 THE UNKIND WORD. 
 
 A BRAVE LADY. 
 
 STUDIES FROM LIFE. 
 
 THE WOMAN S KINGDOM. 
 
 WORKS BY THE AUTHOR OF 'SAM SLICK.' 
 
 Each in One Volume, elegantly printed, bound, and illustrated, price 5s. 
 
 NATURE AND HUMAN 
 
 NATURE. 
 WISE SAWS AND MODERN 
 
 INSTANCES. 
 
 THE OLD JUDGE ; OR, LIFE 
 
 IN A COLONY. 
 TRAITS OF AMERICAN 
 
 HUMOUR. 
 
 THE AMERICANS AT HOME. 
 
 WORKS BY MRS. OLIPHANT. 
 
 Each in One Volume, elegantly printed, bound, and illustrated, price 5s. 
 
 ADAM GRAEME. 
 
 THE LAIRD OF NORLAW. 
 
 AGNES. 
 
 THE LIFE OF THE REV. 
 
 EDWARD IRVING. 
 A ROSE IN JUNE. 
 
 WORKS BY GEORGE MAC DONALD, LL.D. 
 
 Each in One Volume, elegantly printed, bound, and illustrated, price 5s. 
 
 DAVID ELGINBROD. 
 ROBERT FALCONER. 
 
 ALEC FORBES OF 
 HOWGLEN.
 
 THE NEW AND POPULAR NOVELS. 
 
 PUBLISHED BY HURST & BLACKETT. 
 
 EGLANTINE. By the Author of "St. Olave's," 
 
 " Janita's Cross," » The Blue Ribbon," &c. 3 vols. 
 
 A WIFE'S STORY, and Other Tales. By the Author 
 
 of " Caste," " Safely Married," &c. 3 vols. 
 
 TIT FOR TAT. By Mrs. M.E.Smith. 3 v. (In June.) 
 JOCELYN'S MISTAKE. By Mrs. J. K. Spender, 
 
 Author of " Parted Lives," &c. 3 vols. 
 "We know no work more calculated to rivet the attention of the reader than 
 'Jocelyn's Mistake.' The characters are artistically drawn. The plot is intensely 
 interesting and original." — Court Journal. 
 
 BRENDA YORKE. By Mary Cecil Hay, Author 
 
 of " Old Myddelton's Money," &c. 3 vols. 
 
 " 'Brenda Yorke' is a very pretty story, told with much sweetness and pathos." 
 — Standard. 
 "A standard work, which will be read with avidity." — Court Journal 
 
 SWEET AND TWENTY. By Mortimer Collins, 
 
 Author of " Marquis and Merchant," " Frances," &c. 3 vols. 
 
 "Mr. Collins's pretty title suits what, on the whole, is a pretty enough book. His 
 
 occasional verses are as clever as ever." — Athenxum. "A charming book.'' — 
 
 Standard. " A book worth reading." — John Bull. "An amusing and en- 
 tertaining novel." — Messenger. 
 
 DOLORES. By Mrs. Forrester, author of " Fair 
 
 'Women," &c. 3 vols. 
 
 " An unusually good novel. One of the best stories we have read for a long 
 time. The plot is well constructed, and there is plenty of stirring incident and 
 clever delineation of character." — Morninr/ Post. 
 
 "This is a charming book. It is a fascinating and well written tale." — John Bull. 
 
 "A readable and amusing novel." — Dailij News. 
 
 THE ITALIANS. By Frances Elliot, Author of 
 
 " The Diary of an Idle Woman in Italy," &c. 3 vols. 
 
 " There is a great deal in ' The Italians ' that is both fresh and clever. The 
 book has the double recommendation of being entertaining and instructive; it is 
 worth reading for its story, and it containes a series of capital pictures of ItaUan " 
 life and manners." — Times. 
 
 " A novel which ought to earn for itself a decided place in the standard literature 
 of the day. The author may be congratulated upon a brilliant and well-merited 
 success." — Post. 
 
 " A book that one reads through with decided Interest and pleasure." — Academy. 
 
 THE LADY SUPERIOR. By Eliza F. Pollard, 
 
 Author of " Hope Deferred," &c, 3 vols. 
 
 "A clever novel. It is a good and spirited story. Its action is vigorous, the 
 situations tolling, and the characters well sustained." — Morning Post. 
 
 "An interesting story, displaying considerable dramatic power and careful por- 
 trayal of character." — Daily Ni'ws. 
 
 " A story of entrancing interest. The'plot is wonderfully conceived, and executed 
 with equal skill. The characters are true to life." — John Bull. 
 
 LIZZIE. By Lady Duffus-Hardy. 3 vols. 
 
 " A bright and pleasant story." — Times. 
 
 " An enthralling story, which cannot fail to be admired by all." — Morning Post.
 
 THE NEW AKD POPULAR NOVELS. 
 
 PUBLISHED BY HURST & BLACKETT. 
 
 FELICIA. By M.Betham-Edwards, Author of "Kitty," 
 
 " Dr. Jacob," &c. 3 vols. 
 
 " A thoroughly wholesome novel, picturesque, natural, interesting, and evincing 
 that knowledge of life which reaches its highest development in writers of travel 
 and culture. All lovers of pure Action should read ' Felicia.' "—Morning Post. 
 
 '•As a whole this book has much to recommend it. Felicia herself is a very 
 chai-ming study, and her husband, the nmsician, is an original and admirably 
 drawn character. Most of the minor actors in the story are careful and amusing 
 sketches." — Dailij News. 
 
 '•A very charming story; graceful, and finely executed."— ffz-op/jic. 
 
 JOHN DORRIEN. By Julia Kavanagh, Author 
 
 of " Nathalie," &c. 3 vols. 
 
 " 'John Dorrien ' is not only thoroughly pleasant and entertaining, but also ele- 
 vated in tone and pure in sentiment. The whole book is full of interest, bright, 
 imaginative, and poetical It is one of the best written novels of the season." — 
 Morning Post. 
 
 "We have read 'John Dorrien ' from beginning to end with great pleasm-e." — 
 Aiheneeum. 
 
 " A capital book. The story is admirably told, and the characters are skilfully 
 developed." — standard. 
 
 MY STORY. By Katharine S. Macquoid, Author 
 
 of " Patty," &c. 3 vols. 
 
 " ' My Story ' is told in such an easy, natural, graceful fashion that it has great 
 fascination. The whole book is full of merit, and is one of the pleasantest novels 
 we have met with for some time." — Morning Post. 
 
 " Any book by the author of ' Patty ' is sure to arrest the attention of the judi- 
 cious novel reader ; nor will such an one be disappointed in ' My Story.' The 
 autobiography carries the reader on pleasantly. The language is simple and 
 chaste, and the delineation of character graphic." — John BuJl. 
 
 " An exquisite novel. The interest never flags." — Court Journal. 
 
 A CHILD OF FORTUNE. By S. J. Mac Kenna, 
 
 Author of " Off Parade," &c. 3 vols. 
 
 "This story is ingeniously contrived and carefully constructed, and abounds in 
 stirring Incidents, striking scenes, and effective situations." — Pall Mall Gazette. 
 
 " A rattling good novel. It will take by storm every mess-room in the land, and 
 will be read with rapt attention by women as well as men." — John Bull. 
 
 OUR DETACHMENT. By Katharine King, author 
 
 of " The Queen of the Regiment," &c. 3 vols. 
 "A novel that will add to the fame of the authoress. The plot is a charming 
 one exquisitely told; the characters are most artistically drawn, and the language 
 is full of graphic power and pathos." — Court Journal. 
 
 HOPE MEREDITH. By the Author of " St.Olave's," 
 
 " Janita's Cross," " The Blue Ribbon," &c. 3 vols. 
 "A powerful and interesting story." — Morning Post. 
 " A very interesting and readable book." — Pall Mall Gazette. 
 
 DARKNESS AND DAWN. A Russian Tale. By 
 
 Annie Grant. Dedicated, by permission, to the Duchess of Edin- 
 burgh. 2 vols. 21s. 
 "There is much in this book to interest and excite besides the descriptions of 
 
 Russian people and scenery, which form the groundwork of the romance." — 
 
 Athenxum. 
 
 SAFELY MARRIED. By the Author of "Caste." 2 v. 
 
 "The reader will experience rare pleasure in the perusal of this interesting and 
 original novel." — Morning Post. , 
 
 n
 
 Published annually, in One Vol., royal 8wo, with the Arms beautifully 
 engraved, handsomely bound, luith gilt miges, price 31s. 6d. 
 
 LODGERS PEERAGE 
 
 AND BARONETAGE, 
 
 CORRECTED BY THE NOBILITY. 
 
 THE rOETT-rOURTH EDITION FOR 1875 IS NOW READY 
 
 Lodge's Peerage and Baronetage is acknowledged to be the most 
 complete, as well as the most elegant, work of the kind. As an esta- 
 blished and authentic authority on all questions respecting the family 
 histories, honours, and connections of the titled aristocracy, no work has 
 ever stood so high. It is published under the especial patronage of Her 
 Majesty, and is annually corrected throughout, from the personal com- 
 munications of the Nobility. It is the only work of its class in which, the 
 type being kept constantly standing, every correction is made in its proper 
 place to the date of publication, an advantage which gives it supremacy 
 over all its competitors. Independently of its full and authentic informa- 
 tion respecting the existing Peers and Baronets of the realm, the most 
 sedulous attention is given in its pages to the collateral branches of the 
 various noble families, and the names of many thousand individuals are 
 introduced, which do not appear in other records of the titled classes. For 
 its authority, correctness, and facility of arrangement, and the beauty of 
 its typography and binding, the work is justly entitled to the place it 
 occupies on the tables of Her Majesty and the Nobility. 
 
 LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL CONTENTS. 
 
 Historical View of the Peerage. 
 
 Parliamentary Roll of the House of Lords. 
 
 English, Scotch, and Irish Peers, in their 
 orders of Precedence. 
 
 Alphabetical List of Peers of Great Britain 
 and the United Kingdom, holding supe- 
 rior rank in the Scotch or Irish Peerage. 
 
 Alphabetical list of Scotch and Irish Peers, 
 holding superior titles in the Peerage of 
 Great Britain and the United Kingdom. 
 
 A Collective list of Peers, in their order of 
 Precedence. 
 
 Table of Precedency among Men. 
 
 Table of Precedency among WomeiL 
 
 The Queen and the Royal Family. 
 
 Peers of the Blood Royal 
 
 The Peerage, alphabetically arranged. 
 
 Families of such Extinct Peers as have left 
 Widows or Issue. 
 
 Alphabetical List of the Surnames of all the 
 Peers. 
 
 The Archbishops and Bishops of England, 
 Ireland, and the Coloniek 
 
 The Baronetage alphabetically arranged. 
 
 Alphabetical List of Surnames assumed by 
 members of Noble Families. 
 
 Alphabetical List of the Second Titles of 
 Peers, usually borne by their Eldest 
 Sons. 
 
 Alphabetical Index to the Daughters of 
 Dukes, Marquises, and Earls, who, hav- 
 ing married Commoners, retain the tijtle 
 of Lady before their own Christian and 
 their Husband's Surnames. 
 
 Alphabetical Index to the Daughters of 
 Viscounts and Barons, who, having 
 married Commoners, are styled Honour- 
 able Mrs. ; and, in case of the husband 
 being a Baronet or Knight, Honourable 
 Lady. 
 
 Mottoes alphabetically arranged and trans- 
 lated. 
 
 "A work which corrects all errors of former works. It is a most useful publication. 
 We are happy to bear testimony to the fact that scrupulous accuracy is a distinguish- 
 ing feature of this book." — Tim^. 
 
 "Lodge's Peerage must supersede all other works of the kind, for two reasons: first, it 
 Is on a better plan ; and secondly, it is better executed. We can safely pronounce it to be 
 the readiest, the most useful, and exactest of modern works on the subject." — Spectator. 
 
 " A work of great value. It is the most faithful record we possess of the aristo- 
 cracy of the day." — Post. 
 
 " The best existing, and, we believe, the best possible Peerage. It is the standard 
 authority on the subject." — Standard. 
 
 12
 
 HUKST & BLACKETT'S STANDARD LIBRARY 
 
 OF CHEAP EDITIONS OP 
 
 POPULAR MODERN WORKS, 
 
 ILLUSTRATED BY SIR J. GILBERT, MILLAIS, HOLMAN HUNT, LEECH, 
 BIRKET FOSTER, TENNIEL, SANDYS, E. HUGHES, SAMBOURNE, &C. 
 
 Each in a Single Volume, elegantly printed, bound, and illustrated, price 5s, 
 
 I.— SAM SLICK'S NATURE AND HUMAN NATURE. 
 
 "The first volume of Messrs. Hurst and Blackett's Standard Library of Cheap Editions 
 forms a very good beginning to what will doubtless be a vei-y successful undertaking. 
 'Nature and Human Nature' is one of the best of Sam Slick's witty and humoroua 
 productions, and is well entitled to the large circulation which it cannot fail to obtain 
 in its present convenient and cheap shape. The volume combines with the great recom- 
 mendations of a clear, bold type, and good paper, the lesser but attractive merits of 
 being well illustrated and elegantly bound." — Post. 
 
 II.— JOHN HALIFAX, GENTLEMAN. 
 
 " This is a very good and a vei-y interesting work. It is designed to trace the career 
 from boyhood to age of a perfect man — a Christian gentleman; and it abounds in mci- 
 dent both well and highly wrought. Throughout it is conceived in a high spirit, and 
 written with great ability. This cheap and handsome new edition is worthy to pass 
 freely from hand to hand as a gift book in many households." — Examiner. 
 
 in.— THE CRESCENT AND THE CROSS. 
 
 BY ELIOT WARBURTON. 
 
 " Independent of its value as an original narrative, and its useful and interesting 
 information, this work is remarkable for the colouring power and play of fancy with 
 which its descriptions are enlivened. Among its greatest and most lasting charms is 
 its reverent and serious spirit." — Quarterly Review. 
 
 IV.— NATHALIE. By JULIA KAVANAGH. 
 
 " ' Nathalie' is Miss Kavanagh's best imaginative effort. Its manner is gracious and 
 attractive. Its matter is good. A sentiment, a tenderness, are commanded by her 
 which are as individual as they are elegant." — Atlumisum. 
 
 v.— A WOMAN'S THOUGHTS ABOUT WOMEN. 
 
 BY THE AUTHOR OF "JOH>^ HALIFAX, GENTLEMAN." 
 
 " A book of sound counsel. It is one of the most sensible works of its kind, well- 
 written, true-hearted, and altogether practical. Whoever wishes to give advice to a 
 young lady may thank the author for means of doing so." — Examiner. 
 
 VI.— ADAM GRAEME. By MRS. OLIPHANT. 
 
 " A Story awakening genuine emotions of interest and delight by its admirable pic- 
 tures of Scottish life and scenery. The author sets before us the essential attributes of 
 Christian virtue, with a dehcacy, power, and truth which can hardly be surpassed. "-/"osi. 
 
 Vn.— SAM SLICK'S WISE SAWS AND MODERN 
 INSTANCES. 
 
 " The reputation of this book will stand as long as that of Scott's or Bulwer's Novels. 
 Its remarkable originality and happy descriptions of American life still continue the 
 subject of imiversal admiratioa" — Messenger. 
 
 Vin.— CARDINAL WISEMAN'S RECOLLECTIONS OF 
 THE LAST FOUR POPES. 
 
 " A picturesque book on Rome and its ecclesiastical sovereigns, by an eloquent Roman 
 Catholic. Cardinal Wiseman has treated a special subject with so much geniality, that 
 his recollections will excite no ill-feeling in those who are most conscientiously opposed 
 to every idea of human infallibility represented in Papal domination." — Athenteum. 
 
 IX.— A LIFE FOR A LIFE. 
 
 BY THE AUTHOR OF " JOHN HALIFAX, GENTLEMAN." 
 "In 'A Life for a Life ' the author is fortunate in a good subject, and has produced ii 
 work of strong e&GcV—Athenseum. 
 
 13
 
 HURST & BLACKETT'S STANDARD LIBRARY 
 
 (CONTIXUED.) 
 
 X.— THE OLD COURT STJBTJIIB. By LEIGH HUNT. 
 
 " A delightful book, that will be welcome to all readers, and most welcome to those 
 who have a love for the best kinds of reading." — E.raminer. 
 
 "A more agreeable and entertaining book has not been published since Boswell pro- 
 duced his reminiscences of Johnson.'' — Observer. 
 
 XI.— MAEGAEET AND HER BRIDESMAIDS. 
 
 " We recommend all who are in search of a fascinating novel to read this work for 
 themselves. They will find it well worth their while. There are a freshness and ori- 
 ginality about it quite charming." — Athenxum, 
 
 Xn.— THE OLD JUDGE. By SAM SLICK. 
 
 " The publications included in this Library have all been of good quality ; many give 
 information while they entertain, and of that class the book before us is a specimen. 
 The manner in which the Cheap Editions forming the series is produced, deserves 
 especial mention. The paper and print are unexceptionable ; there is a steel engraving 
 in each volume, and the outsides of them will satisfy the purchaser who likes to see 
 books in handsome imiform." — Examiner. 
 
 Xni.— DARIEN. By ELIOT WARBURTON. 
 
 "This last production of the author of ' The Crescent and the Cross ' has the same 
 elements of a very wide popularity. It will please its thousands." — Globe. 
 
 XIV.— FAMILY ROMANCE ; OR, DOMESTIC ANNALS 
 OF THE ARISTOCRACY. 
 
 BY SIR BERNARD BURKE, ULSTER KING OF ARMS. 
 
 " It were impossible to praise too highly this most interesting book. It ought to be 
 found on every drawing-room table." — Standard. 
 
 XV.— THE LAIRD OF NORLAW. By MRS. OLIPHANT. 
 
 "The 'Laird of Norlaw' fully sustains the author's high reputation." — Sunday Times. 
 
 XVI.— THE ENGLISHWOMAN IN ITALY. 
 
 " We can praise Mrs. Gretton's book as interesting, unexaggerated, and fall of oppor- 
 tune instruction.'' — Times 
 
 XVn.— NOTHING NEW. 
 
 BY THE AUTHOR OF " JOHN mVLIFAX, GENTLEMAN." 
 
 " 'Nothing New ' displays all those superior merits which have made 'John Halifax 
 one of the most popular works of the day." — J'ost. 
 
 XVni.— FREER S LIFE OF JEANNE D'ALBRET. 
 
 "Nothing can be more interesting than Miss Freer's story of the life of Jeanne 
 D'Albret, and the narrative is as trustworthy as it is attractive. ' — Post. 
 
 XIX.— THE VALLEY OF A HUNDRED FIRES. 
 
 BY" THE AUTHOR OF "MARGARET AND HER BRIDESMAIDS." 
 
 "If asked to classify this work, w e should give it a place between ' John Halifax ' and 
 'The Caxtons.' " — Standard. 
 
 XX.— THE ROMANCE OF THE FORUM. 
 
 BY PETER BURKE, SERGEANT AT LAW. 
 
 " A work of singular interest, which can never fail to charm. The present cheap and 
 elegant edition Includes the true story of the Colleen Bawn.'' — Tlliistrated y^ews. 
 
 XXI.— ADELE. By JULIA KAVANAGH. 
 
 " ' Adele ' is the best work we have read by Miss Kavanagh ; it is a charming story 
 full of delicate character-painting." — Athenxum.
 
 HUHST & BLACKETT'S STANDARD LIBRARY 
 
 XXn.— STUDIES FROM LIFE. 
 
 BY THE AUTHOR OF " JOHN HALIFAX, GENTLEMAN." 
 "These 'Studies from Life ' are remarkable for graphic power and observation. The 
 book will not diminish the reputation of the accomplished author." — Saturday Review. 
 
 XXin.— GRANDMOTHER'S MONEY. 
 
 "We commend 'Grandmother's Money' to readers in search of a good novel The 
 characters are true to human nature, and the story is interesting." — Atlienxum. 
 
 XXIV.— A BOOK ABOUT DOCTORS. 
 
 BY J. C. JEAFFRESON. 
 "A delightful book.'' — Athenxum. " A book to be read and re-read; fit for the study 
 as well as the drawing-room table and the circulating library." — Lancet. 
 
 XXV.— NO CHURCH. 
 
 "We advise all who have the opportunity to read this book." — AthenxuiTi. 
 
 XXVI.— MISTRESS AND MAID. 
 
 BY THE AUTHOR OF " JOHN HALH^AX, GENTLEMAN." 
 "A good wholesome book, gracefully written, and as pleasant to read as it is instruc- 
 tive." — Athenceuni. "A charming tale charmingly told." — Standard. 
 
 XXVII.— LOST AND SAVED. By HON. MRS. NORTON. 
 
 " ' Lost and Saved ' will be read with eager interest It is a vigorous novel" — Times. 
 "A novel of rare excellence. It is Mrs. Norton's best prose work." — Examiner. 
 
 XXVin.— LES MISERABLE S. By VICTOR HUGO. 
 
 AUTHORISED COPYRIGHT ENGLISH TRANSLATION. 
 
 "The merits of 'Les Miserables" do not merely consist in the conception of it as a 
 whole ; it abounds with details of unequalled beauty. iL Victor Hugo has stamped upon 
 every page the hall-mark of genius." — Quarterly Review. 
 
 XXIX.— BARBARA'S HISTORY. 
 
 BY A:\IELIA B. EDWARDS. 
 
 " It is not often that we light upon a novel of so much merit and interest as ' Barbara's 
 
 History.' It is a work conspicuous for taste and literary culture. It is a very graceful 
 
 and charming book, with a well-managed story. clearl3--cut characters, and sentiments 
 
 expressed with an exquisite elocution. It is a book which the world will like. " — Times. 
 
 XXX.— LIFE OF THE REV. EDWARD IRVING. 
 
 BY MRS. OLIPHANT. 
 
 "A good book on a most interesting theme." — Times. 
 
 " A truly interesting and most affecting memoir. Irving's Life ought to have a niche 
 in every gallery of religious biography. There are few lives that will be fuller of in- 
 struction, interest, and consolation." — Saturday Review. 
 
 XXXI.— ST. OLAVE'S. 
 
 "This charming novel is the work of one who possesses a great talent for writing, as 
 well as experience and knowledge of the world. ' — Athenceuni. 
 
 XXXn,— SAM SLICK'S AMERICAN HUMOUR. 
 
 "Dip where you will into this lottery of fun, you are sure to draw out a prize." — Post. 
 
 XXXIII.— CHRISTIAN'S MISTAKE. 
 
 BY THE AUTHOR OF " JOHN HALIFAX, GENTLEMAN." 
 " A more charming story has rarely been written. Even if tried by the standard of 
 the Archbishop of York, we should expect that even he would pronounce ' Christian's 
 Mistake' a novel without a fault. " — Times. 
 
 XXXIV.— ALEC FORBES OF HOWGLEN. 
 
 BY GEORGE MAC DONALD, LL.D. 
 "No account of this story would give any idea of the profound interest that pervades 
 the work from the first page to the last"— Athenceum.
 
 HURST & BLACKETT'S STANDARD LIBRARY 
 
 XXXV.— AGNES. By MRS. OLIPHANT. 
 
 " ' Agnes ' is a novel superior to any of Mrs. Oliphant's former works." — Athenctum, 
 " A story whose pathetic beauty will appeal irresistibly to all readers." — Post. 
 
 XXXVI.— A NOBLE LIFE. 
 
 BY THE AUTHOR OF "JOHN HALIFAX, GENTLEMAN." 
 
 "This is one of those pleasant tales in which the author of 'John HaUfax' speaks 
 out of a generous heart the purest truths of life." — Examiner. 
 
 XXXVn.— NEW AMERICA. By HEPWORTH DIXON. 
 
 "A very interesting book. Mr. Dixon has written thoughtfully and weU." — Times. 
 Mr. Dixon's very entertaining and Instructive work on New America." — Pall Mall Gaz. 
 "We recommend every one who feels any interest in human nature to read Mr. 
 Dixon's very interesting book." — Saturday Review. 
 
 XXXVin.— ROBERT FALCONER. 
 
 BY GEORGE MAC DONALD, LL.D. 
 " ' Eobert Falconer ' is a work brimful of life and humour and of the deepest human 
 interest. It is a book to be returned to again and again for the deep and searching 
 knowledge it evinces of human thoughts and feelings." — Athenceum. 
 
 XXXIX.— THE WOMAN'S KINGDOM. 
 
 BY THE AUTHOR OF "JOHN HALIFAX, GENTLEMAN." 
 
 " ' The 'Woman's Kingdom ' sustains the author's reputation as a writer of the 
 purest and noblest kind of domestic stories. — Athenseum. 
 
 XL.— ANNALS OF AN EVENTFUL LIFE. 
 
 BY GEORGE WEBBE DASENT, D.C.L. 
 "A racy, well-written, and original novel. The interest never flags. The whole 
 work sparkles with wit and humour." — Quarterly Eevkw. 
 
 XLL— DAVID ELGINBROD. 
 
 BY GEORGE MAG DONALD, LL.D. 
 " A novel which is the work of a man of true genius. It will attract the highest 
 class of readers." — Times. 
 
 XLH.- A BRAVE LADY. 
 
 BY THE AUTHOR OF "JOHN HALIFAX, GENTLEMAN." 
 
 "A very good novel; a thoughtful, well-written book, showing a tender _ sympathy 
 with human nature, and permeated by a pure and noble spirit'' — Examiner. ' 
 
 XLIII. -HANNAH. 
 
 BY THE AUTHOR OF " JOHN HALIFAX, GENTLEMAN." 
 "A powerful novel of social and domestic life. One of the most successful efforts of 
 
 a successful novelist" — Daily News. 
 
 ' A very pleasant, healthy story, well and artistically told. The book is sure of a 
 
 wide circle of readers. The character of Hannah is one of rare beauty." — Standard. 
 
 XLIV.— SAM SLICK'S AMERICANS AT HOME. 
 
 "This is one of the most amusing books that we ever read." — Standard. 
 
 XLV.— THE UNKIND WORD. 
 
 BY THE AUTHOR OF " JOHN HALIFAX, GENTLEMAN." 
 "The author of 'John Halifax 'has written many fascinating stories, but we can 
 call to mind nothing from her pen that has a more enduring charm than the graceful 
 sketches in this work. Such a character as Jessie stands out from a crowd of heroines 
 as the type of all that is truly noble, pure, and womanly. " — United Service Magazine. 
 
 XLVI.— A ROSE IN JUNE. By MRS. OLIPHANT. 
 
 " 'A Rose in June ' is as pretty as its title. The story is one of the best and most 
 touching which we owe to the industry and talent of Mrs. Oliphant and in its slender 
 grace and playful satire may hold its own with even ' The Chronicles of Carling- 
 ford.' " — THmes. 
 
 16
 
 IN 
 ^3 
 
 THE LIBRARY 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 Santa Barbara 
 
 THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE 
 STAMPED BELOW. 
 
 , FAC JUL 28 1869 
 
 Series 9482 
 
 • 
 
 
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 3 1205 02702 7653 
 
 UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 
 
 AA 001 042 461 2 
 
 
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