w;mmims^^^m 
 
 LAND 
 
 iVSB©RG 
 
THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 (WURTEMBERG) 
 
 l^v 
 
 mo. 7 
 
LIBRARY OF THE GREAT WORLD 
 
 COMPRISING ORIGINAL VOLUMES OF 
 
 l)i6tors, JSioarapb^, Science, n:ravel, JEtc. 
 
 In cloth and morocco^ with frontispiece. Published 
 
 for subscribers at 30 cents in cloth, and 
 
 45 cents in morocco. 
 
 EDITED BY 
 
 A. VAN DOREN HONEYMAN 
 
 BOOKS ISSUED. 
 
 THE AZTECS. By The Editor. 
 
 REINDEER-I.AND. By The Editor. 
 
 THE HOI.I.AND OF TO-DAY. By J. A. Mets. 
 
 HOW THE WORI.D WAS MADE. By Wm. H. 
 Larrabee, LL. D. 
 
 THE PERUVIANS. By Arthur Howard Noll. 
 
 ADMIRALr PAUL JONES. By The Editor. 
 
 IN SUABIA-I,AND. By I^aura Maxwell. 
 
 some succeeding volumes: 
 
 WHAT WE KNOW ABOUT THE STARS. By 
 The Editor. 
 
 ALFRED THE GREAT. By Thb Editor. 
 
 Etc., Etc., Etc. 
 
 [Order of publication of volumes not certain.] 
 
Castle IJchtenstein 
 
Xibratu of tbe ©teat XRIlorl5 
 
 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 (WURTEMBERG) 
 
 An ^pp]|.r:c;c^l.atlCH<k;:;* 
 
 BY 
 
 LAURA MAXWELL 
 
 pUintlel^ flew Scxbc^ 
 tyonc^mnn Si Company 
 
 1905 
 
Dear Fatherland, what blessing, 
 
 What gift art thou denied? 
 Of thine exalted station 
 
 One hears on every side. 
 
 . They say thou art an Eden, 
 Thou art a garden fair; 
 How can we better praise thee 
 Thou land beyond compare? 
 
 Thy men, are they not ever 
 
 Industrious, frank, upright? ** 
 
 Ip. , pea/:ef ul art instructed, • 
 
 Yi^tbiravest *m *a :fi|h«?: : 
 
 And are not all thy women , 
 f Don?es^ic, .pipusj true? • * • 
 \W«th'he&ris- where .We^^t;rg's Uegend 
 
 •Still Woisoftls forth -&neW«?^»" 
 
 — From Uhland. 
 
 THE CHAPTERS 
 
 ;I. Geography AND Early History 5 
 
 il. The House of Hohenstauffen i6 
 
 III. The House of Wurtemberg 22 
 
 IV. Household Ways and Social Customs 32 
 
 y. Religion, Funerals and Weddings 42 
 
 VI. Holidays AND Festivals 48 
 
 VJI. Some General Customs 53 
 
 VIII. The Neckar Valley 62 
 
 IX. The Suabian Alb 75 
 
 JC. Art and Literature 86 
 
 Copyright, 1905, by 
 Honeyman & Company 
 
 Published Aug. 28, X905 
 
 GIFT 
 

 "Suabia, though lost^frpm the map, survives forever in 
 history, poetry and ronjanc^,"; ; ', J* •*•!*' 
 
 ! 2 • V • *••* \ * •— TILTON. 
 
 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 Geography and Early History 
 
 On the top of the Rothenberg, an eminence 
 which rises from the bank of the Neckar near the 
 centre of the realm, stood once in medieval 
 times the castle of a Suabian Count, who ex- 
 ercised therein so generous and free a hospi- 
 tality that the title, *Wirth-auf-dem-Berg" 
 (Host on the Hill), was accorded him, and be- 
 came in time that of his family and, later, of the 
 kingdom. This popular tradition, now rejected 
 by serious historians, easily wins acceptance with 
 all sojourners in this beautiful, friendly region, so 
 truly does it accord with the prevalent spirit of 
 sincere hospitality yet pervading the land. Off 
 from the great arteries of travel, unblazoned in 
 guide-books by great natural wonders, or famous 
 achievement, it is only to those travellers who 
 seek out its many charms that Wiirtemberg re- 
 veals itself. The hurrying tourist sees from the 
 
6 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 window of his railway carriage only the beauti- 
 ful, spreading panorama of mountain and valley, 
 or inspects the public collections of artistic treas- 
 ures gathered in its largest city. A full apprecia- 
 tion can only come from tarrying among its peo- 
 ple, sharing. their sim^k. (Relights, revelling in the 
 great natilraJ-' beauty cif^tRrs.land of forest and 
 mountsiin, c and cdiscavejing foF^ioneself the hid- 
 den tic^jif^sidf j,lfegert^ ;an4 a^r-jt s.e.^iuestered among 
 the historic ruins of its ancient cloisters and 
 castles. 
 
 Stuttgart, the capital, is delightfully situated 
 on the Nesenbach, just above its juncture with 
 the Neckar, 900 feet above the sea-level. The 
 city is surrounded by picturesque, wooded hills, 
 and laid out with much taste and beauty. Not 
 attaining great importance until made capital 
 of the Duchy in 1482, its history makes no part 
 of the early traditions of the land. Its chief 
 growth has been during the last two centuries, 
 during which good architects of the later Renais- 
 sance have made of it an attractive city, with 
 fine public buildings, pleasant homes and beauti- 
 ful parks and suburbs. There are many interest- 
 ing monuments and a good collection of ancient 
 and modern art. There are also many present- 
 day attractions in the way of music and litera- 
 ture — for Stuttgart is a great book-publishing 
 centre — while it offers the many joys of a less 
 strenuous life than can be lived in the more 
 bustling cities of North Germany. Like all for- 
 eign capitals, however, it is more or less cos- 
 mopolitan in character, and, for a closer view 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 7 
 
 of family life and surviving national customs, a 
 more thoroughly Suabian environment should be 
 sought in one of the smaller towns, w^here an- 
 cient tradition and usages still prevail. 
 
 Old Suabia. — A popular ballad asserts that 
 ''Wiirtemberg Germany's garden is and Ess- 
 lingen its Paradise," and it was this latter, quaint 
 old town, nine miles above Stuttgart, that re- 
 ceived so kindly into its midst the American 
 stranger who now writes this appreciation of 
 Wiirtemberg's charms and hospitality. To be 
 the one Amerikanisch'es Mddele in a foreign 
 town of 25,000 inhabitants is necessarily to oc- 
 cupy a position of some prominence in local gos- 
 sip, and when the spirit of the place is kindly, a 
 cordial interchange of curiosity can open up most 
 delightful opportunities of acquaintance and in- 
 formation. 
 
 *' Suabia" is no longer in the geography. The 
 country so familiar in history and literature, and 
 so rich in popular tradition, has no present-day 
 entirety, but its domains belong in part to each 
 of the three modern kingdoms, of Baden, Ba- 
 varia and Wiirtemberg. This last contains, how- 
 ever, the kernel of the old Suabia, and, as on the 
 seventeenth of March all Irishmen rank them- 
 selves with greatest pride as true "sons of Erin," 
 so the fondest boast of the patriot of Wiirtem- 
 berg is always, *'I am a Schwab." 
 
 The old dialect, once the language of court and 
 literature, is the preferred speech of the people, 
 and the adjective "Schwabisch" is of most univer- 
 sal and favorite application. 
 
8 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 Geography and Early History. — The present 
 kingdom of Wiirtemberg, now a part of the great 
 German Empire, is wedged in between the prin- 
 cipalities of Baden and Bavaria, the beautiful 
 Lake Constance, of which one-fifth belongs to 
 Wiirtemberg, making its southern boundary with 
 Switzerland. Its area is 7,528 square miles. It 
 rises in a successive series of hills and mountains, 
 only one-fourth of the country being rated as 
 level land. The result is an exceedingly pictur- 
 esque region — full of natural beauty and bold 
 scenic effects; a stepping-stone to the grander 
 Alps just beyond. The valley of the Neckar and 
 its tributaries forms the northern portion, a fertile 
 lowland, with isolated, vine-clad hills. Between 
 this and the valley of the Danube, which crosses 
 the land in a northeasterly direction, rises the 
 Suabian Alb, or Jura, a very striking range, 
 making a sharply-defined, high wall of successive 
 peaks from Hohenzollern across into the Bava- 
 rian border. Behind this are the pines and firs 
 of the Black Forest, which constitutes the south- 
 ern portion of the kingdom. The detached prin- 
 cipality of Hohenzollern, which belongs to Prus- 
 sia, lies in central-south-east. 
 
 Wurtemberg stands third among the German 
 states as regards area, and fourth as regards pop- 
 ulation. This latter is chiefly agricultural, the 
 farms ranging from two and a-half to twenty- 
 five acres, but thirty per cent, of the land is 
 forest, which is, however, a source of revenue to 
 the state. The chief crops are hay, oats, clover, 
 barley and potatoes, and the small farms, which 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 9 
 
 are laid out in long and short strips rather than in 
 irregular patches, as in America, give the effect 
 of great rag carpets laid over valleys and across 
 lower hills. 
 
 \Vurtemberg's history is one of romance. Tra- 
 ditions hover over all its many hills and forests, 
 affecting still the quiet life and thought of to-day. 
 The kingdom, with its present boundaries, was 
 only constituted in 1809. Its early history 
 emerges gradually from that of the great German 
 realm, and, later, from that of Suabia. 
 
 In the First Century before Christ it was the 
 Kelts that held a roving possession of this Rhine- 
 land, and of this people we have but scanty 
 knowledge. That they were not wholly rude 
 barbarians, ignorant of all the arts of civilization, 
 can be proved by the beautiful treasures found in 
 what are called the Heiden Graben (heathen 
 graves) scattered all over Suabia. Some of these 
 must be dated back three thousand years, and 
 from the numerous great hills erected over the 
 chieftain's graves, as well as from the lesser 
 mounds of their more humble followers, have 
 been taken many interesting and beautiful ar- 
 ticles of household art and utility. Gold, bronze, 
 silver, iron, utensils for domestic use, or articles 
 of personal adornment, richly decorated and 
 finely wrought, w;hich in these past ages played 
 their part in the daily Keltic life, are now to be 
 seen in the Stuttgart Museum. Some of these bear 
 mark of tlie Fifth Century before Christ and 
 are of Grecian manufacture, ''intimating," says 
 a writer, "an exchange of greetings between the 
 
lo IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 land and time of Sophocles and Plato and this 
 remote^ unclasslcal country.'* The traces of 
 this Keltic domination are still to be seen in 
 the remains of sacrificial altars and in the many 
 vestiges of elaborate roads and walls, while the 
 ruins of more than one hundred of their strong- 
 holds remain in Wiirtemberg to this day. 
 
 The Roman Conquest. — The Roman Conquest 
 followed, and of that, too, we find lasting me- 
 morials, the stones of which are left in situ, while 
 the movable treasures now enrich the town and 
 city museums. Against the constant incursions 
 and attacks of the savage tribes the southern 
 conquerors were compelled to erect barriers, and 
 the great extent and strength of some of these 
 fortifications, revealing, as they do, an almost 
 superhuman energy, and labor, have gained for 
 their remains the name of ''Devil's walls.'* 
 Highroads, for the transportation of the vast 
 armies and colonies brought to conquer and garri- 
 son the land, were built, and Cannstatt on the 
 Neckar was thus anciently connected with Baden- 
 Baden and Strasbourg. 
 
 The fortress was a necessity and around it grew 
 up villages which, in some cases, grew later to 
 cities, populated by soldiers' families, artisans, mer- 
 chants and peasants. Near the high roads 
 would be built occasional villas, the summer re- 
 sorts of the Italian nobles or Rome's recompense 
 to her successful generals. Recent excavations 
 have revealed mosaics, frescoes, statues, vases and 
 other artistic treasures, the decorations of these 
 Roman pleasure-houses. As many as five hun- 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND ii 
 
 dred of these Roman remains have been found in 
 Wiirtemberg, all in the Neckar Valley or on the 
 Alb, for great territories of the land remained 
 in thick forest absolutely uninhabited. 
 
 Only one of the ancient cities, Rottenburg on 
 the Neckar, can today show traces of this period 
 of occupation. Here are the foundations of the 
 castles on either bank; the Aqueduct, Temple, 
 Theatre and public and private buildings can be 
 plainly traced. With the Romans came their 
 gods, and altars to Jupiter and Juno, Apollo and 
 Diana stood on spots long since reconsecrated by 
 pious hearts to the worship of the God of Luther. 
 The Roman domination lasted but two centuries 
 north of the Danube, leaving, however, lasting 
 traces upon the after development of the country, 
 even though the civilizing influences of the South- 
 land were followed by a barbaric inundation from 
 the North. 
 
 In 213 the Alamanni, or Suevi, appeared first 
 offensively on the boundaries of the Roman realm. 
 They were beaten back by Emperor Caracalla, 
 but in 270 had gained possession of this north- 
 ern portion, and Rome not only withdrew, but 
 trembled. Centuries of strife among the w^an- 
 dering tribes, Alamannic, Burgundian and Prank- 
 ish, followed. Through the missionary zeal of the 
 latter Christianity was introduced and St. Mi- 
 chael and St. Martin succeeded Thor and Odin as 
 tutelary deities. 
 
 The Cloister and Charlemagne. — Monks and 
 traveling preachers carried the new Gospel 
 through the land, and in the Eighth Century ap- 
 
12 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 peared the cloister. Founded by monastic zeal, 
 or kingly vow, these became, during the troub- 
 lous times which followed, alike the refuge of the 
 unprotected and the retreat of the disabled war- 
 riors; and, during succeeding centuries, they 
 wielded great power in the land. Under Count 
 Eberhard im Bart there were nine hundred in 
 Wiirtemberg and, later, fully one-third of that 
 realm was in their possession, the fruitful cause of 
 many of the kingdoms' woes. 
 
 The oldest cloister is that of EUwagen, found- 
 ed in 755 by Bishop Erlulf. Others followed 
 fast and were richly endowed. Wiirtemberg 
 now acquired its native saints, the holy Meurad 
 and Regiswindis, whose traditional history and 
 miracles can be traced in memorials and relics in 
 the churches. 
 
 In the Eighth Century the land was divided 
 into provinces, the ruler or count of which was 
 appointed by the King. Now first appears the 
 mention of a province of Wiirtemberg, the be- 
 ginning of the present kingdom. Suabia was but 
 a small portion of the extensive realm of Charle- 
 magne (d. 814), and did not play any prominent 
 part therein. During the reign of that great or- 
 ganizer the land was brought under compara- 
 tively close supervision, and many changes in na- 
 tional customs gradually took place. We now see 
 the beginning of the manor house. A Wiirtem- 
 berg historian says that in the Suabian common 
 law of this period it was declared that a man 
 might, without having to ask special permission 
 of the realm, build a residence surrounded by a 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 13 
 
 wall so high that one sitting upon a horse could 
 reach the top with his hand, but without turrets 
 or breastwork. Most of the land belonged to the 
 King, and the rest to the nobles and the church, 
 for Charlemagne was a strong upholder of papal 
 power and gave rich benefices, establishing, also, 
 classical schools for the education of priests. All 
 unclaimed land belonged to the realm, as well as 
 all the rivers and highways, and any bestowal 
 must be by a royal brief. As a result, the mass of 
 the population was dependent upon the manor 
 lords for the soil to cultivate, and paid for it in 
 crops and personal service. 
 
 Thus the necessities of existence brought about 
 the feudal system, with all its evils. In time relief 
 came through the introduction of cavalry into the 
 army and the consequent opening up of independ- 
 ent careers through the gate of knighthood, won 
 by personal valor and hardihood ; also by the rise 
 of other than a land aristocracy. Agriculture be- 
 gan to flourish, the example being set In the kingly 
 domains, where were Instituted sample agricul- 
 tural stations. The first vineyard was planted 
 near Hellbronn In 766 — the precursor of those 
 which now cover the rising, fertile ground of the 
 valley of the * Rhine, and flax, peas, beans, 
 lentils and dyestuffs were cultivated. Charle- 
 magne's agricultural list Included seventy- 
 three different kinds of garden products and six- 
 teen varieties of trees. Trades sprang up and 
 German native art had Its beginning. 
 
 In 814 Charlemagne died, and In 843 his great 
 realm was divided Into three Independent por- 
 
14 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 tions, all the people of German tongue being 
 united .under the sceptre of Louis the German, 
 grandson of Charlemagne, whose principal palace 
 was at Ulm, on the Danube. Louis has been 
 called the Father of his Country, for he laid the 
 groundwork of German nationality. Karl the 
 Fat succeeded to the throne and was crowned 
 king at Rome by the Pope in 88 1, but, seven 
 years later, death alone saved him from enforced 
 abdication in favor of his nephew, Arnulf von 
 Karnten, who later was crowned Roman Em- 
 peror. The Carlovingian race ended with this 
 latter's son, Louis, who, was made king at six 
 years of age, and dying at eighteen, is known in 
 history as Louis the Child. Rivalry among the 
 ducal houses for the succession followed, and 
 strife and contention prevailed; civil strife 
 among themselves and desperate fighting with the 
 Magyars, who descended in hordes upon the land. 
 The Magyars: Emp. Henry IV. — In 917 the 
 prize of the German lordship, under Henry of 
 Saxony, fell to Burkhard, one of the Suabian 
 Dukes, and his descendants ruled until 1080. On 
 St. Lawrence's day, the tenth of August, 955, was 
 fought the famous and decisive battle against the 
 invading Magyars, when those hosts were put 
 to confusion by the German and Frankish armies. 
 Before the battle the Christian army had made a 
 solemn appeal to their God for help, the King 
 vowing that, if Christ would give them the vic- 
 tory over their enemy, he would build a bishopric 
 for St. Lawrence in the city of Merseburg. Of 
 one hundred thousand Hungarians only seven 
 
 I 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 15 
 
 escaped. Joy over the deliverance was widespread 
 and universal, for Christendom had been in im- 
 minent peril. 
 
 Rudolf was the last of this line of royal Dukes. 
 During his reign (1057-1080) arose the great 
 historic contest between the Emperor and the 
 Pope, which for a long time to come desolated 
 the whole of civilized Europe. Gregory VII. 
 was in the Papal chair; Henry was Emperor, 
 and the ambition of the former was met by the 
 opposition of the latter. The Pope availed him- 
 self of all the weapons of his spiritual office, and 
 the land was put under the ban of the Holy 
 Church. Henry crossed the Alps and made his 
 historic penance, standing three days in penitent's 
 garb in the court of the Castle of Canossa, and 
 the ban was withdrawn, but Rudolf of Suabia, 
 — called by the Pope ''the holy Peter's most be- 
 loved Son" — was made Emperor by the Papal 
 party (1079). Henry, at news of this, hastened 
 back over the Alps and his troops overran the 
 valley of the Neckar, which suffered all the hor- 
 rors of strife and devastation during the long 
 years of civil war that ensued. Gregory again 
 excommunicated Henry and his supporters, who, 
 in turn, called together a synod at Mainz, and de- 
 clared a new Pope, Clement III., ,who now is- 
 sued his papal ban against Rudolf. In the bat- 
 tle of Hohen Molsen (October 15, 1080), Ru- 
 dolf was slain. He was frightfully mangled, his 
 right hand being severed from his body, which 
 was popularly recognized in those times as a 
 proof that the judgment of God had come upon 
 
i6 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 I 
 
 him, for had he not with that very right hand 
 falsely sworn allegiance to the Emperor, whose 
 throne he had later usurped? 
 
 CHAPTER II 
 The House of Hohenstauffen 
 
 "Think on that mountain rising high and slim, 
 The fairest peak of all the Suabian hills, 
 And boldly bearing on its royal head 
 The Hohenstauffens' old ancestral house. 
 And far around, in mellow sunshine spread, 
 Green, winding valley of a fruitful land 
 Sparkling with streams and herd-supporting meadows — 
 With wooded hills that woo the hunt and sound 
 Of convent vespers from the nearer dells." 
 
 -Uhland. 
 
 This is the most glorious period of Suabian his- 
 tory, that of the domination of the House of 
 Hohenstauffen. The ruins of their old castle, 
 crowning its isolated mountain-top, can be seen 
 far and wide from the lowlands of the Neckar, a 
 visible reminder of those romantic days of legend 
 and chivalry when personal power and manly 
 worth dominated both Nature and people. The 
 Emperors of this race ruled with excessive bril- 
 liancy and ability, and even to-day hold the most 
 popular place in German tradition, as in their 
 lifetime they did in the hearts of their subjects. 
 Of the progenitor of the line nothing is known ; 
 he was one of the many small counts of the land, 
 and his descendants derived their family name 
 from that of the high hill on which he perched 
 his family fortress. 
 
 Frederick von Hohenstauffen was a trusted 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 17 
 
 companion as well as a son-in-law of Henry IV., 
 and in 1079 the Emperor created him Duke of 
 Suabia, although it was thirty years before this 
 claim was fully established. Henry died in 1106 
 and Frederick the year previous. When Henry 
 V. left his German domains for Italy to obtain 
 his investiture, it was to Conrad and Frederick 
 von Hohenstauffen, his own nephews, that he left 
 the difficult task of maintaining the imperial pow- 
 er at home. The Fifty-year War between Pope 
 and Emperor was ended in 1122, and in 11 25 
 Henry V. died, leaving his nephew, Frederick, his 
 understood successor. The choice of the Princes, 
 however, was Lothair of Saxony, and the feuds 
 of succession recommenced. In these wars is said 
 to be found the origin of those designations 
 Guelph and Ghibbeline, which have become 
 world-famous through their influence on Italian 
 and universal history. Duke Welf, whose fam- 
 ily claims on the Lombard estates of the Countess 
 Matilda gave rise to the Italian invasion and con- 
 quest, fought for the position of German Emperor 
 against Conrad and Frederick von Hohenstauf- 
 fen. His battle cry was. Hie Welf! and that 
 of his rivals was Hie Waiblingen! their former 
 family name. These in Italian became later Guelf 
 and Ghibbeline. 
 
 At Lothair's death, which occurred in 1137, 
 Conrad was chosen head of the kingdom, but 
 not until 11 43 was the strife over the succes- 
 sion ended. To these times belongs the incident 
 famous in song of "The True Wives of Weins- 
 berg." At the surrender of the fortress of 
 
i8 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 Weinsberg, Emperor Conrad, the victor, gener- 
 ously granted to the women-prisoners permission 
 to leave the place and to take with them as much 
 as they could carry on their shoulders. 
 
 "Well, then, in Weinsberg be it told 
 I grant a woman's prayer; 
 Let all the women, young and old. 
 Go forth with all their arms can hold 
 And all their backs can bear. 
 
 "Although the town was given to sack. 
 Yet, with a throbbing breast, 
 Each woman bore upon her back. 
 Or in her arms, through smoke and wrack. 
 The man she loved the best. 
 
 "The Kaiser, though by craft beguiled. 
 Was not to vengeance stirred. 
 And watched the train as it defiled, 
 Nor stopped it, saying as he smiled, 
 'A Kaiser keeps his word.' "* 
 
 Emperor Frederick Barbarossa. — In 1146 
 Bernard of Clairvaux preached the Second Cru- 
 sade in Speyer, and Conrad put on the Crusader's 
 mantle, and, with his young nephew, Frederick 
 Barbarossa — the famous Redbeard — and an 
 army of seventy thousand knights, started for 
 Palestine. Many misfortunes befel and it was a 
 reduced and disheartened company that returned 
 the following year only to find civil strife again 
 enkindled in Germany. 
 
 In 1 152 Conrad died, and Frederick Barba- 
 rossa began his eventful reign. The history of this 
 Suabian House now becomes general history, for 
 the exploits of these Hohenstauffen Emperors 
 were of world-wide significance, and it is a uni- 
 versal interest that is felt in the traditional 
 
 *Theodorc Tilton, in Suabian Stories. 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 19 
 
 awakening of the sleeping Redbeard, when the 
 fullness of time calls for a renewal of his earthly 
 warfare. Far happier might have been the per- 
 sonal fate of these brilliant Emperors could they 
 have curbed their ambitions and resisted the lure 
 of Italian conquest and interference, which led 
 so soon to their race extinction. Great was their 
 prowess and skilful their marital diplomacy, but 
 the fatal triumphs across the Alps led quickly to 
 battle, murder and sudden death. 
 
 Frederick Barbarossa was one of the most en- 
 lightened and powerful rulers who ever swayed 
 an imperial sceptre. High on a lance before the 
 door of his tent hung his shield, a sign that he 
 was ready upon summons to redress all wrongs. 
 Six times he crossed the Alps at the head of an 
 army, striking terror into Rome itself, making 
 and deposing Popes, violating the sanctuary of 
 St. Peter, and driving all enemies before him. 
 He has been called the first free-thinker of mod- 
 ern times, having declared that, as he had been 
 this far the anvil, he now meant to be the ham- 
 mer of the church. In his German dominions 
 there was but little peace, the House of Welf 
 of]Eering continual combat. Only in 11 84 could a 
 great Festival of Peace be celebrated in Mainz. 
 On Whitsuntide of that year almost the whole 
 knighthood of the West gathered around the 
 Emperor, who entertained the large company 
 during three days. Encamped on the river bank, 
 the spectacle of glittering armor and high-born 
 dames, of the tournaments and joyous feasting, 
 must have been most dazzling to a beholder. 
 
20 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 During the festival the Emperor's two young sons 
 received their spurs of knighthood. 
 
 A time of true peace followed, broken by the 
 news, which fell like a thunder bolt, that Jerusa- 
 lem had been captured by the Turks. Pope 
 Gregory VIII. called all Christendom to the res- 
 cue, and Emperor Frederick responded with a 
 large army. As usual, misfortune and sufferings 
 were their lot. Hostile Greeks, and, worse still, 
 famine and disease — foes which no bravery could 
 subdue — fell upon them. Through Emperoi 
 Frederick's valor, however, Iconium was taken, 
 and the army was proceeding, when sudden death 
 bereaved the hosts of their beloved leader. A 
 plunge on horseback In a cold stream killed him, 
 and the sorrowing army left his body behind In 
 Antloch. 
 
 Succeeding Emperors. — Two sons succeeded, 
 Henry VI., who married the heiress of Sicily and 
 added Southern Italy and Sicily to his dominions, 
 and Philip. The history of the latter Is veiy dra- 
 matic. Educated as a priest and made Bishop of 
 Wiirzburg, he was called by his brother, Henry 
 VI., to re-enter the world and assume the duties 
 of Duke of Suabia. Soon succeeding his brdther 
 as Emperor, he was suddenly murdered in 1208. 
 His wife, the beautiful Irene, was she of whom 
 Walter von der Vogelwelde sang in sweetest 
 tones as the "Rose without a Thorn." Examples 
 they were of true domestic happiness and high- 
 born refinement. 
 
 Great was the lamentation when this beloved 
 ruler was so cruelly slain. One of his monkish 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 21 
 
 companions, according to Belschner, laments him 
 thus: ''Howlike a shiningstar art thoufallen from 
 Heaven, thou jewel among kings! The sun has 
 gone down and it is night." Queen Irene died 
 two months later of a broken heart. 
 
 Frederick II., son of Henry VI., was again a 
 World-Emperor, being one of the most remarka- 
 ble figures of the Middle Ages in his character 
 of Emperor, knight, scholar and philosopher; the 
 greatest ruler between Charlemagne and Napo- 
 leon. Master of the six languages of his realm, 
 he was also famous as a minnesinger, excelled in 
 all knightly exercises and prowess, and wrote be- 
 sides elaborate treatises on natural history and 
 philosophy. Educated in Sicily, where he held a 
 court renowned for chivalry and culture, he was 
 above the simpler standard of Germany, and the 
 history of his deeds and life do not properly be- 
 long to Wiirtemberg, except for this kingdom's 
 pride in this imperial scion of their Suabian House. 
 Most of his life was spent in Italy, while his son, 
 Conrad, assumed the duties and responsibilities 
 of the Suabian realm. Because of the bitter en- 
 mity between the Pope and the Emperor, all the 
 dominions of the latter were put under the Papal 
 ban, and Germany lost both faith and religion 
 during the struggle. 
 
 Frederick died in 1250, and his son, Conrad, 
 went into Italy to acquire his inheritance there, 
 but died in 1254, leaving his young son, Conradin, 
 and youngest brother, Manfred, the last of the 
 Hohenstauffen race. Manfred was crowned King 
 of Sicily, where he held a court renowned for its 
 
22 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 culture and chivalry, until, in 1265, he met a he- 
 ro's death in battle against his foe, Charles of 
 Anjou, who incarcerated Manfred's sons for life. 
 The character of Charles was vindictive. A 
 writer says: " Manfred was cruel also, but on 
 the tomb of the Suabian hero the tears of genera- 
 tions have fallen. Friendship was the jewel of 
 the Hohenstauffen kings." 
 
 This left Conradin alone in the struggle, and 
 right manfully did the noble youth play his part. 
 Forced on the defensive at the tender age of ten, 
 at seventeen he crossed the Alps at the head of an 
 army, made a triumphal entrance into Rome, and 
 forced Charles of Anjou to a battle. Defeated by 
 a cunning stratagem, he was taken prisoner, 
 basely betrayed and beheaded at Naples, 1268. 
 With him the Royal House of Hohenstauffen 
 became extinct. 
 
 CHAPTER III 
 The House of Wurtemberg 
 
 "Then take ye heed, aha! take heed 
 Ye knaves both North and South. 
 For many a man both bold in deed 
 And wise in peace the land to lead, 
 Old Suabia has brought forth!" 
 
 — Schiller. 
 
 The downfall of the Hohenstauffens plunged 
 southern Germany into a sad period of rulerless 
 civil strife, doing which the House of Wiirtem- 
 berg steadily increased in power, riches and do- 
 main. Its early history is all uncertain. An 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 23 
 
 inscription on one of the stones which formed 
 a part of the old Castle chapel on the Rothen- 
 berg, shows that that part of the ancestral build- 
 ing was consecrated in 1083, ^^^ hereafter we 
 find occasional mention In the chronicle of cer- 
 tain Counts of Wiirtemberg playing parts in the 
 troublous history of those times. Clever states- 
 manship, personal courage, thrift and ambition 
 seem to have been conspicuous family virtues, 
 with the result that, in 1240, we find Count Ul- 
 rich with the Thumb already a power in the 
 land. 
 
 Eberhard the Noble (1265-1325) was no 
 friend of the people, and the cities waged long 
 and constant strife against his masterful demands, 
 but at his death he left a largely increased fam- 
 ily domain. This Count had for his motto: "A 
 friend of God, but enemy to all the world." 
 
 Count Eberhard II. (1344-1392) ruled in try- 
 ing times. Beside constant civil warfare, he had 
 to contend with the disastrous earthquake of 
 1348, and in the next year appeared the black 
 plague in all its virulence, carrying off great num- 
 bers of the inhabitants. In the search for a cause 
 for this pestilence arose the merciless persecutions 
 of the Jews, who were accused of having poisoned 
 the springs, and thousands of this o.utlawed race 
 were seized and burnt in the Wiirtemberg cities. 
 Another disturbing element was the fanatical 
 army of Flagellants, which streamed over the 
 country, arousing the wildest emotions and lead- 
 ing to great disorders. 
 
 The Suabian Alliance. — During the unsettled 
 
24 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 conditions of the realm, while popes and emper- 
 ors were at strife, and princes fought for domina- 
 tion, another power was quietly developing, that 
 of the free towns. From the days of the Ro- 
 mans until the Eleventh Century there had been 
 no question of German communities, but there- 
 after this growth had been rapid, and as, by the 
 nature of things, town rights must conflict with 
 the prerogatives of the princes, feuds were en- 
 gendered and a new and lively element introduced 
 into the civil conflicts. The beginning of the 
 Town Wars was in the year 1349, when many of 
 the Suabian cities united in an alliance against 
 some of the most hated of the Wiirtemberg no- 
 bility. From this time on there was continuous 
 strife, and in 1376 fourteen cities united to form 
 the famous "Schwabische Bund," by which the im- 
 perial free towns united in self-defense against 
 the exactions of the nobles. These latter feder- 
 ated their forces, and the country was desolated 
 by civil strife. 
 
 As many as forty-one cities joined the alliance, 
 whose hopes were strengthened by the news of the 
 victory of the Swiss over Leopold of Austria. It 
 was a critical period for the liberties of Wiirtem- 
 berg; either the towns or the nobility must be 
 victorious and gain supremacy. The decisive bat- 
 tle was fought near Doffinger in 1388, and it was 
 Count Eberhard II. whose personal efforts and 
 prowess turned the tide of affairs and gained an 
 overwhelming victory for his side over the Alli- 
 ance, which for a time re-established princely au- 
 thority. 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 25 
 
 Count Eberhard the Mild (1392-1417) suc- 
 ceeded; then Eberhard IV. (1417-1419). A 
 regency under the Queen-mother, Henrietta, fol- 
 lowed, but in 1 44 1 the land was divided be- 
 tween the two sons of Eberhard IV. ; one, Lud- 
 wig, making Urach his capital, the other, Ulrich, 
 holding his court at Stuttgart. 
 
 Eberhard im Bart. — In 1457 began the reign 
 of Eberhard V., known in history as Eberhard im 
 Bart, who reunited the kingdom and became the 
 first Duke of Wiirtemberg. This ruler was the 
 most beloved of the Wiirtemberg princes, and 
 around his person and reign gather hosts of 
 homely and romantic traditions, since wrought 
 into innumerable ballads sung and loved in all 
 Suabian households. He is regarded as the 
 George Washington of his country, who estab- 
 lished it in the ways of peace and orderliness, and 
 prepared land and people for the troublous times 
 just ahead. Assuming rule at the age of four- 
 teen, he made, nine years later, a voyage to Pales- 
 tine, and at Jerusalem took the vows of knight- 
 hood at the Holy Sepulchre. 
 
 Of this trip he is said to have brought home 
 three mementoes, viz., his beard, which some tra- 
 ditions make grow to his feet; the palm tree, 
 which he hereafter bore on his coat-of-arms, to- 
 gether with the motto Attempto (I dare) ; and 
 the white thornbush he planted in a churchyard 
 near Tubingen. His leading characteristics were, 
 his piety, his true care for his people and for their 
 education, and his self-sacrificing zeal for their 
 benefit. His wife was Barbara Gonzaga of Man- 
 
26 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 tua, a true and beloved helpmeet during all his 
 reign.- The most important features of his rule 
 were the Miinsiger Treaty, establishing the suc- 
 cession of the eldest of the ducal family to the 
 throne; the founding of the University of Tu- 
 bingen in 1479, and his exaltation to an esteemed 
 and elevated place in the German realm. His 
 valuation of the love of his people and his confi- 
 dence in their loyalty are shown by the incident at 
 his ducal coronation at Worms in 1495, told in 
 Kerner's popular ballad, and given later in these 
 pages. Their devotion to him may be gathered 
 from the saying said to have been current among 
 them: "If the Lord God was not our God then 
 our Duke would be our God." ''Small in per- 
 son, great in heart, the ornament of his royal 
 race," was also said of him. He died in Tu- 
 bingen in 1496. 
 
 "He was the Duke whose narrow land 
 So broadened underneath his hand. 
 That, as his coronet passed down, 
 It grew and brightened to a crown. 
 Nor has there reigned in Suabia since 
 A king so royal as this prince, 
 Who, with so small a state, 
 Made it so proud and great." 
 
 Duke TJlrich.— After three years of insignifi- 
 cant rule by Duke Eberhard II., followed the 
 long reign of Duke Ulrich. These were stirring 
 times everywhere, and many storms broke over 
 Wiirtemberg. It was the century of the Refor- 
 mation, and this independent, simple realm was 
 from the beginning a stronghold of the new faith. 
 Ulrich began his reign gloriously. In less than 
 two years he had added more to his domain than 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 27 
 
 had any of his predecessors during the past one 
 hundred years. Of winning personality, tall of 
 stature, strong of limb, with blue eyes, curly blond 
 hair and red beard, his was a fiery, unsubdued, 
 wilful life until long wanderings and misfor- 
 j^ tunes brought wisdom, and the turn of afEairs 
 caused him to be regarded as the father of his 
 
 ppeople. In 15 14 the war known as that of the 
 "Arme Conrad" broke out. This was a brother- 
 hood to which neither the wealthy nor the beggar 
 were admitted, and sprung out of dissatisfaction 
 
 lover the increased taxes and oppression caused by 
 
 itJlrich's extravagance and debts. The members 
 wore a white cross on their mantle as a dis- 
 tinguishing sign and rose in open revolt. At 
 Remsthal a company of the rioters seized the new 
 weights — for Ulrich had put a tax on bread, 
 
 |flesh and wine — and, throwing them in the Rems, 
 shouted: "If the peasants are right, sink to the 
 Dttom; if the Duke is right, swim on top!" Nat- 
 
 |urally the iron sank and depredations followed. 
 The result was the Tubingen Treaty, which has 
 been called the Wiirtemberg Magna Charta, for 
 
 lit obtained for the people many privileges in re- 
 
 |turn for the payment of the Duke^s debts. 
 
 Ulrich had married Sabina of Bavaria, but 
 detested her, and his evil conduct in this regard 
 brought about a decision from the Council of the 
 
 I'realm that he must leave the country for six years, 
 v^hich was later amended by permission to re- 
 lain, but to reign only under an appointed re- 
 gency. An assault on the town of Reutlingen 
 aroused the ire of the Suabian Alliance, which 
 
28 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 assembled a great force at Ulm, and marched 
 against the Duke, who in less than ten weeks lost 
 his entire land. Circumstances ofEered him a sec- 
 ond chance, but he listened to evil counsel, again 
 oppressed the people, and was again expelled. 
 
 In 1520 the Emperor of Austria seized Wiir- 
 temberg in payment of the 220,000 gulden war 
 debt and added it to the domains of the House 
 of Austria, under whose rule it remained until 
 1534. During these years Ulrich was a homeless 
 wanderer, hidden away in caves or sojourning 
 with foreign princes. This is the period which 
 Hauff's novel, Lichtensteiuj has so vividly por- 
 trayed. In 1524 the formidable "Peasants War" 
 broke out, the result of a demand for greater re- 
 ligious freedom. When that was denied them, a 
 spirit of communism developed and great devas- 
 tation of land and destruction of property, as well 
 as life, followed. In the war the Duke was pop- 
 ularly known as "Bauer Utz." 
 
 Duke Christopli and Later Dukes. — Ulrich 
 died in 1550, and his son, Duke Christoph (1550- 
 1568) succeeded him. Separated from his mother, 
 alienated from his father, Christoph had been 
 brought up in the Austrian service. Emperor 
 Karl, wishing to make Wiirtemberg a perpetual 
 addition to his realm, endeavored to confine the 
 young heir in a cloister, but, through the devoted 
 services of his teacher, Michael TifEerny, his 
 escape was accomplished and he found refuge in 
 Bavaria until his accession. The state of the 
 country at this period was pitiful, being encum- 
 bered with great debts and evil customs, and 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 29 
 
 there was little courage among the leaders. 
 Chrfstoph proved to^be the right Duke. He sup- 
 ported the Reformation, established schools and 
 fostered education, winning a warm place in 
 the hearts of his subjects. 
 
 Of the Dukes which followed there need be 
 little recorded. They were mainly insignificant, 
 not knowing how to control the distress of the 
 times, and in some cases greatly aggravating the 
 troubles. The Thirty Year's War devastated 
 the land, famine and pestilence were its com- 
 panions, and the population was reduced in a few 
 years from 340,000 to 48,000 souls. 
 
 The most sorrowful point in Wiirtemberg's 
 history was, however, reached during the reign of 
 Duke Eberhard Ludwig (1677- 1733) whose 
 mistress, the Countess von Gravenitz, and her 
 family, plunged the realm into an era of shame 
 and extravagance. Under his successor, Duke 
 Karl Alexander, the hated Jew, Suss Oppen- 
 heimer, wrought great financial ruin, so exasper- 
 ating the people that, in 1738, he was hanged in 
 Stuttgart in an iron cage suspended from a high 
 gallows. These Dukes were all great castle build- 
 ers. They lived luxuriously, so that the Court of 
 Wiirtemberg was the most sumptuous in Europe. 
 Most of the beautiful pleasure-houses, theatres, 
 parks and public buildings we now see were of 
 their creation. 
 
 Duke Karl (1737-1793) established the Mili- 
 tary Academy of Karlsruhe, and in the latter part 
 of his reign greatly fostered the growth of pub- 
 lic education and stimulated commerce and art. 
 
30 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 He died in 1793, and, after the short reigns 
 of his two brothers, his nephew, Duke Frederick 
 II., soon to be King Frederick I., began his rule. 
 
 King Frederick I. — Says an historian : 'With 
 great strides had history gone forward in this 
 last decade, and with it on its irresistible march 
 had carried little Wiirtemberg." Duke Frederick 
 tried hard to remain neutral when war between 
 Austria and France broke out, but Napoleon ap- 
 peared himself in Ludwigsburg, and declared 
 concisely: ''It must be with or against me." An 
 alliance was concluded. Early in 1806 General 
 Morois, Napoleon's adjutant, announced in 
 Stuttgart the Peace of Preszburg, and the eleva- 
 tion of Wiirtemberg to the rank of a kingdom. 
 Its soldiers had gained fame, decorations and high 
 position, through their great bravery and 
 "Schwabenstreiche" in the war, but there was 
 discontent and bitterness of heart over their po- 
 sition in arms against their brother people. 
 
 In 1809 Wiirtemberg was increased to its pres- 
 ent dimensions by Napoleon, and had then a pop- 
 ulation of i,4CX),ooo. In 18 1 3 the battle of 
 Leipzig brought the French Alliance to an end, 
 and Wiirtemberg made a "Holy Alliance" with 
 Austria and Russia in the cause of German free- 
 dom. . 
 
 King William I. — King Frederick I. died the 
 year after the battle of Waterloo (1815), and 
 was succeeded by William I. (i 816- 1864), whose 
 long reign was a time of peace and prosperity. A 
 new constitution was established, the law of suc- 
 cession fixed, and rights of conscience, equality of 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 31 
 
 legal rights and freedom of the press were 
 granted. He was accorded the title of *'The 
 Just," and his memory is greatly treasured by his 
 country. His will contained the following sen- 
 tences: "I have always lived for the Unity, In- 
 dependence and Glory of Germany; above all 
 of my beloved Wiirtemberg. Hail to my Father- 
 land for all future time!" His two wives, Kath- 
 erine of Russia and Pauline of Wiirtemberg, did 
 much to relieve the poor of the kingdom, and 
 many hospitals, schools and other charitable in- 
 stitutions owe their endowment to these queens. 
 
 King Karl and William II. — The succeeding 
 reign of his brother. King Karl ( 1 864-1 891 ), was 
 likewise good and happy. He mounted the 
 throne with the declaration: "While I hold the 
 reins of government, I trust, above all, in the 
 help of God who will give me strength to conse- 
 crate my life to the welfare of the country." His 
 queen, Olga of Russia, also busied herself with . 
 charities and endeared herself greatly to the peo- 
 ple. During these reigns the commerce and indus- 
 tries of the realm greatly increased and schools 
 and institutions for higher and for industrial edu- 
 cation have been firmly and universally estab- 
 lished. Since January, 1871, when King Wil- 
 liam of Prussia was proclaimed Emperor of Ger- 
 many at Versailles, Wiirtemberg has been part of 
 his realm. 
 
 King Karl was succeeded in October, 1891, 
 by King William II., the present ruler of Wiir- 
 temberg; he was born in 1848 in Stuttgart. 
 His first consort was Princess Marie of Waldeck 
 
3a IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 Piedmont, and his second is Princess Charlotte 
 of Schaumberg Lippe. He is a friend of peace, a 
 supporter of church and school, a promoter of art, 
 agriculture, trade and commerce, and under him 
 the kingdom is making rapid advance in indus- 
 trial prosperity. 
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 Household Ways and Social Customs 
 
 In the beautiful castle gardens in Stuttgart is 
 a life-size marble group, by Paul Miiller (1881), 
 representing Count Eberhard im Bart asleep, 
 with his head on the lap of a young peasant. The 
 story, like that of King Alfred the Great and the 
 griddle-cakes, is so well known and accepted as 
 to be deemed historical. When Count Eberhard 
 was created Duke, there sat at the festal board, 
 in the Emperor's banqueting hall at Worms, 
 many other German princes, who each in turn 
 boasted of the superior riches of his respective 
 kingdom. The Prince of Saxony claimed moun- 
 tains full of precious silver; he of the Rhine 
 boasted of golden harvests and rich mines; while 
 Ludwig of Bavaria praised his rich cloisters and 
 great cities. 
 
 "Eberhard, surnamed 'The Bearded,* 
 Wurtemberg's beloved lord, 
 Said, 'My land hath no great cities, 
 In its hills no silver hoard. 
 
 "But it holds one hidden treasure, 
 That, in deepest forest shade, 
 On the lap of any subject. 
 Fearless, I can lay my head.* 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 33 
 
 "Cried the listening Princes round him, 
 Saxony, Bavaria, Rhine, 
 'Bearded Count, thy land is richest. 
 Where such precious jewels shine.' " 
 
 That this remains the land's most cherished 
 tradition, and Kerner's simple ballad Der Reichste 
 Filrst is still the toast song at all patriotic gather- 
 ings, speaks much for the continued simplicity 
 and sincerity of Wiirtemberg ideals. A writer 
 says that this tale "is the keynote, even to-day, 
 of the relation between prince and people in 
 Suabia."' Universal is the affection felt for the 
 royal household, whose characteristics, at least 
 for the past century, have been simplicity and 
 an earnest devotion to the welfare of their sub- 
 jects. The court at Berlin has not the same per- 
 sonal interest for them; that is rather reserved 
 for show occasions and remains remote from their 
 daily lives and thoughts, while the plain, every- 
 day going out and in among them of their own 
 good king and queen fills their hearts with an 
 honest satisfaction and quiet devotion. Prince 
 Bismarck was a prime favorite, and many of the 
 slippers and sofa cushion covers that went to 
 him on his birthdays were the handiwork of de- 
 voted admirers among the Suabian dames. 
 
 Agriculture and Living. — Agriculture is the 
 chief occupation in Wiirtemberg ; its people labor 
 hard with but scanty results. This may account 
 for the universal simplicity of family and social 
 life within its borders. A pious, sentimental 
 gemiithlich folk, sincere and lovable in their daily 
 incomings and outgoings, devoted to their God, 
 their King and their hearths, they are industri- 
 
34 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 Gus, contented and passionately attached to their 
 own beloved *'Schwabenland." Possessing no 
 large commercial cities like those of North Ger- 
 many, the smaller towns still remain almost me- 
 dieval in appearance and conditions, and there 
 are, therefore, many refreshing experiences pos- 
 sible for those willing to forego for a time the 
 more luxurious conveniences of modern inven- 
 tions. 
 
 The general custom of living in small flats 
 reduces the extent of the cities' area, and towns of 
 considerable population remain cramped almost 
 within ancient boundaries. This '*flat"-life 
 seems simpler and more cooperative than with us. 
 While class divisions exist, based upon culture 
 and vocation, there is a simple friendliness be- 
 tween all classes, and customs which have the 
 authority of centuries regulate the courtesies of 
 domestic and neighborly intercourse. A cause 
 of some embarassment to the stranger is the 
 general absence of janitors. One needs to be 
 most careful to inquire and note on just which 
 floor one's friend lives, or be forced to apply at 
 numerous doors of private apartments, with the 
 consequent uncertainty of pleasant reception. As 
 most of the rooms on each flat open into the one 
 hall, with no private vestibule, the awkwardness 
 of indiscriminate knocking is easily apparent. 
 Each floor keeps its own hall and stairway clean, 
 and each in turn assumes the care for a week of 
 the front door and pavement. This is called the 
 Kehrwoche, and frequently a framed bulletin, 
 more or less ornate, often an effort of native 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 35 
 
 wit, is hung in the lower hall and designates 
 each floor's responsibility. 
 
 Quite customary is it for the different occu- 
 pants to share the daily paper, passing this on at a 
 certain hour, either above or below as the ar- 
 rangement may be. Life is simplified by the 
 plainness of the furnishing of the average dwell- 
 ing. The floors are generally bare with rugs, 
 often of home manufacture, and the furniture 
 is substantial but not excessive. The living- 
 room, or parlor, contains always the sofa, which 
 plays so important a part in social etiquette, some 
 tables and straight-backed chairs, and generally 
 a piano. Rockers are almost unknown. Dining- 
 room and bed-room furniture are strictly to the 
 purpose, and Americans would notice the absence 
 of lace draperies at the windows. This sim- 
 plicity means more leisure for the Hausfrau, and 
 she is generally found well-read enough to be 
 interesting, can always play a little on some in- 
 strument, and often sings or paints, while in sum- 
 mer she gives herself up to a genuine enjoyment 
 of Nature and "the simple life," the whole family 
 cooperating. 
 
 The flat kitchens are tiny affairs and the sim- 
 plicity of the cooking is in keeping. Baking is 
 seldom done at home, a coarse brown baker's 
 bread — often thickly bestrewn with kiimmel 
 seeds — being the universal choice. The pies, pud- 
 dings and cakes of America are unknown to Ger- 
 man cookery. Pancakes, pot roasts, salads, soup 
 and preserves are the staples of domestic economy 
 and enjoyment. There are four meals a day. 
 
36 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 Breakfast is early and consists of coflEee, bread, 
 butter and honey ; dinner is at noon ; vesperbrod 
 at half-past three o'clock, and at half-past six 
 comes supper, usually a cold meal. 
 
 The general wash-kitchen is frequently in the 
 cellar, and here take place the activities of the 
 various quarterly w^ashdays of the different fam- 
 ilies. Fire is kept up all day on the brick hearth, 
 over which is a built-in kettle. The clothes are 
 boiled, washed three times with the hands (for 
 the Yankee washboard is unknown), laid in water 
 over night, then rinsed, blued, wrung out and 
 hung up until the next day. As one Waschfrau 
 could not get through with a three months' wash 
 in one day, several are employed, and the chat- 
 ter and clatter make this a lively occasion. 
 
 Many families do the ironing themselves, by 
 degrees, and the mangle is a much-used domestic 
 article. This quarterly substitute for our weekly 
 washday necessitates an extensive wardrobe, and 
 it is not only the acquisition of from three to six 
 dozen of each article of underwear that must oc- 
 cupy the minds and hands of Fraus and Frauleins, 
 but a room must be spared by each family in 
 ' which the soiled garments are suspended until the 
 day of their purification. This is known as the 
 room of the Schwarzewasche, and often several 
 are grouped together in the attic. Under these 
 circumstances underwear is apt to be plain and 
 strong rather than dainty. Each town has its 
 public fountains, with arrangements for the wash- 
 ing of clothes, and picturesque groups can often 
 be seen dipping and rubbing in these public pools. 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 37 
 
 The transient visitor can be quite sure that the 
 garments confided to the hotel Waschfrau take 
 part in some such sociable immersion. 
 
 The "Kranz.'' — Most of the social life among 
 Suabian women is in the form of what we call 
 clubs, or reading circles, known there as the 
 Kranz. The word means a wreath, and each 
 member is^upposed to be a bud in this particular 
 garland! Generally formed during school days, 
 it often exists until death or removal breaks up 
 the circle. The most intelligent and active women 
 often belong to several — to an English and a 
 French Kranz, meeting once a week and reading 
 English or French literature aloud, or to others 
 where music, or art, or some kind of social diver- 
 sion forms the program. I remember one of three 
 old ladies, all over seventy-five, the survivals of 
 the Kranz of their girlhood, who still met fort- 
 nightly, when infirmities and the weather did not 
 interfere, to discuss current events. Think how 
 many "mutations of time and mutations of 
 thought" have come up for their consideration 
 during this half-century! 
 
 The meetings are in the afternoon at the differ- 
 ent homes in turn. Arriving at about half-past 
 two o'clock, the "buds" arrange themselves, each 
 with their sewing, around a large table already 
 spread. One reads aloud, and, when it is time 
 for the Vesper-meal, coffee is brought in with 
 buns or cake, or, most frequently, a Hafen Kranz, 
 a large loaf of plain baker's cake baked in a hol- 
 low mold, its top sprinkled with nuts and sugar; 
 also some preserves or fruit. I have known an 
 
38 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 orange to be divided into its eight or more natural 
 divisions, and these put on a plate to be passed 
 around* to the guests. As oranges are a luxury 
 and incomes small, this, surely, was an exquisite 
 instance of simple hospitality. After the coffee, 
 work and the book are resumed. 
 
 One striking characteristic of these meetings, to 
 me, was, the apron, an article of the wardrobe 
 highly valued among German women as combin- 
 ing utility and personal adornment. Most re- 
 markable of construction were they! Many were 
 made of black alpaca, embroidered or trimmed 
 with lace and ribbons, not strong in the bib, nor 
 valuable as regards size, but wondrous samples 
 of needle work and artistic ingenuity. On sum- 
 mer days the Kranz will often make excursions 
 and walk to pleasant spots in the environs, where 
 it will encircle with its '*buds" (always equipped 
 with apron and fancy work), one of the out-of- 
 door cafe tables sure to be found in every attrac- 
 tive spot, and there carry out the accustomed pro- 
 gram. 
 
 Suabian Hospitality. — Besides the Kranz, the 
 daily Vesper-meal gives opportunities for an easy 
 hospitality. Privileged to be admitted into a 
 much-esteemed family of high social position, 
 though of reduced income, my welcome into the 
 best society of the pleasant Suabian town was 
 most hearty, and toward the close of my sojourn 
 there, when personal acquaintance had been made 
 and my ears were opened and my tongue some- 
 what loosed, every afternoon found me with an 
 engagement zum Kaffee, The program differed 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 39 
 
 with the age and circumstances of the hostess. 
 Never was it a gay revel, but a succession of pleas- 
 ant glimpses into the simple, sincere, home-life, 
 not without its dangers to the foreigner of mis- 
 takes in native etiquette, and possible consequent 
 wounding of the sensibilities of one's hostess. 
 
 There is considerable traditionary etiquette in 
 Suabian hospitality, and the recipient of so much 
 courtesy naturally desires to show no less good 
 breeding in return, if only aware of the proper 
 form for it. The language gives them the 
 first opportunity. From perference, among 
 the older ladies at least, the Suabian dialect is 
 used in all familiar conversation, and, when one 
 to whom that is an unknown tongue joins the 
 company, the others must, to quote their own 
 words, "get up on stilts.'* Not so easy is it to 
 manage the sofa and the first cup of coffee. The 
 former is the seat of honor, but one must not be 
 easily persuaded of one's worthiness for the dis- 
 tinction. Social precedence is well understood by 
 the natives, and, after much pretended demur, the 
 coveted seat is generally occupied by the right 
 person, unless the interloping foreigner, wonder- 
 ing all the while why the most uncomfortable of 
 all places, a high, haircloth sofa should be forced 
 upon her, fails to notice the true importance of 
 the matter, and lets herself — though the young- 
 est in the room, and with never a 'Von" to her 
 name, nor an ancestral coronet on her handker- 
 chief — be too easily persuaded into usurpation of 
 another's rights. The same courtesy must be 
 gone over again with the first cup of coffee. 
 
40 IN SUABIA-LAND ' ^ 
 
 "While the napkin is coming, the soup becomes cold, 
 While the bonnet is trimming, the face grows old," 
 
 says the old ditty, and sometimes the first cup of 
 coffee at a Wiirtemberg Vesper-brod is far from 
 steaming when finally appropriated. 
 
 A different, but no less real, predicament, is 
 that caused by the custom of serving the preserves 
 with small silver knives, or two-pronged forks, 
 practice alone making this table-habit easy of per- 
 formance, though the knife is not meant to be 
 put to the mouth. 
 
 While the collation is never elaborate, there 
 are dishes more or less familiar and pleasant to the 
 foreign palate. The anticipation of sour-cream 
 pie, for instance, is not always the joy it is sup- 
 posed to be, and when one detests the taste of the 
 kiimmel seed and does not enjoy beer, the simple 
 hospitality which offers beer, brown bread and 
 radishes to the guest, is not without its discom- 
 fort, especially as the only token of appreciation 
 accepted as satisfactory is that of a hearty appe- 
 tite. To ask for a drink of cold water instead 
 of the beer would be most impolite, and less than 
 two pieces of sour-cream pie would pronounce the 
 hostess's table to be a failure. 
 
 Here arises another dilemma for those of lim- 
 ited eating capacity. Etiquette for the hostess is 
 to press upon the guest all the viands continually. 
 Etiquette for the visitor is never to leave a morsel 
 uneaten on the plate. Conversation is, there- 
 fore, somewhat hampered by the necessity of 
 guarding one's plate from surreptitious, hospitable 
 overloading. Of true and abundant hospitality 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 41 
 
 there is never any question; their best is always 
 yours and is offered with a kindness of heart and 
 charming sincerity of manner that must awaken a 
 responsive pleasure. 
 
 The conversation interests; of unkind gossip 
 there seems no hint, and the talk is guided into 
 channels pleasant to the foreign visitor. Few 
 have travelled widely, but all know well their 
 own land and its historic traditions and land- 
 marks. Of other countries ideas are necessarily 
 more hazy, although, like the Yankee, all *Vant 
 to know." In bidding farewell to me one dear 
 old lady whispered: "Be good to the Indians," 
 and there seemed a doubt in the mind of some 
 whether my skin was dark enough for a real 
 American. 
 
 The men have there vereins, or clubs, and sel- 
 dom do the two sexes mingle socially in these 
 quiet circles. Perhaps the small scale of the 
 dwellings is responsible for this, and perhaps this 
 fact increases the pleasure of the summer outing, 
 when the families meet constantly at the open-air 
 cafes found on every side. Men do not call on 
 ladies unless their intentions are serious. Another 
 custom, the reverse of ours — and consequently a 
 trap for the foreigner — is that the men must 
 speak first on the street. 
 
 Also, a stranger, when she comes into the 
 town, must make first calls on the friends of her 
 friends, or on those who pay her the compliment 
 of inviting her to call; and these will at once 
 return the visit. The people are very fond of mu- 
 sic and there are many oratorio societies and sing- 
 
42 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 ing classes. Bach's Passion music is given on 
 Good Friday in the Stuttgart Stiftskirche. The 
 theatres, too, are good and much frequented. 
 
 CHAPTER V 
 Religion, Funerals and Weddings. 
 
 To an outside observer piety seems to be a 
 prominent characteristic of Wiirtemberg. "Griiss 
 Gotf' is the familiar salutation heard constantly 
 on the streets, and the airs of the old hymns float 
 through the town several times daily. Family 
 worship and grace said before and after meals 
 are customary. The latter is most frequently 
 said by the children, one of whom arises and 
 reverently repeats the quaint form of thanks 
 which has served for many generations. The 
 kingdom is Protestant, and was a stronghold for 
 the Reformation. This is no wonder, after 
 such long abuse at the hands of unfriendly Popes, 
 whose continued interdict accustomed the people 
 to do without their spiritual guidance, and bred a 
 sturdy opposition and independence that must 
 need think and act for itself. 
 
 Under the constitution the King is the guar- 
 dian and director of the Evangelical Church, and 
 seventy per cent, of the population is Protestant. 
 The almost universal custom of trombonists play- 
 ing chorals from the top of a high tower three 
 times a day must affect the daily thoughts of the 
 population. Sometimes they play from a church 
 tower; sometimes from one given up to the resi- 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 43 
 
 dence of the town fire-watchman, who walks 
 around the four sides of the balcony outside his 
 lofty abode every quarter of an hour during the 
 night on the alert for fires, calling out, in some 
 places, an old-time verse, in others merely the 
 customary ''all's well." In case of fire the bells 
 are rung, and sometimes guns are fired from sur- 
 rounding hills. At sunrise the trombonists come 
 out and greet the day with several verses of a 
 choral. This they do again at noon and at even- 
 ing-time. Well do all the people in the town be- 
 low know and love these old chorals, and on the 
 streets and in the homes the pious words are 
 softly hummed, and praise to God ''for His good- 
 ness to the children of men" rises from many 
 hearts. The effects on the stranger of this Chris- 
 tian muezzin call is distinctly religious and im- 
 pressive. 
 
 The Church. — The Church, too, is intimately 
 interwoven with the daily life of the people, not 
 that so many services are held — Sunday morn- 
 ing attendance fulfills for most that duty — but all 
 belong to the congregation, and all have personal 
 relations with the staff of pastors who serve over 
 the large parishes. These churches receive gov- 
 ernment support, and while there are few to a 
 city, these are large and have a number of pas- 
 tors in charge. The Herr Dekan holds the su- 
 perior position; then the Herr Stadt Pfarrer, 
 Herr Ober Hilfer, Herr Hilfer, and the Stadt- 
 vikar. In the country one man serves and, some- 
 times, he even has several contiguous charges. 
 Pews are not owned, but all seats are free and all 
 
44 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 classes mingle together. There Is no liturgy; the 
 service begins by singing a hymn, during which 
 the preacher, In black gown, enters and the audi- 
 ence rises. After prayer and the reading of the 
 Gospel, all sit down for the sermon. After this 
 Is recited the ''Vater Unser' (Lord's Prayer), 
 and during this the church bell is tolled, so that 
 all kept at home may know and participate; a 
 custom, this, especially dear to the sick and aged. 
 Prospective marriages are then called and the 
 couples prayed for. No collection Is taken, but 
 outside the church door is placed a box, in which 
 all drop something, the contents going to some 
 outside benevolence previously noticed from the 
 pulpit. At the installation of a new pastor he 
 must read his Lebenlauf, I. e., relate all the in- 
 cidents of his past life, and tell all his family his- 
 tory and present circumstances; Introduce him- 
 self and family, as it were, to his new parish- 
 ioners. Sunday School Is held In the afternoon In 
 the parish house. 
 
 The observance of the Sabbath in Wiirtemberg 
 is quite different from that In the Roman Cath- 
 olic kingdoms, yet Is the day not kept as in 
 England, for example. In the morning It Is the 
 general custom to attend church and frequently 
 is the long sermon, with its old time divisions, 
 reaching often to the seventhlies, gone over and 
 discussed at the noonday meal. 
 
 After this the day is given over by most to 
 general relaxation. The old ladies often take up 
 their knitting, social visits are made and families 
 unite for Vesperbrod. In pleasant weather ex- 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 4S 
 
 cursions are made to the country, the parks, or the 
 environs, where the cafe tables keep filled with 
 happy, orderly crowds. In the country the men 
 go to the village inn, where, seated at long bare 
 tables, they sing choruses between their glasses 
 of beer. All is quiet and decorous, and Sun- 
 day a much prized holiday. 
 
 Funerals. — Funerals have a most general ob- 
 servance. Owing to the small rooms, which can 
 accommodate so few of the many who wish to 
 pay their last respects to the dead, the main ser- 
 vice is held at the churchyard, the friends meeting 
 at the house and forming a procession, which fol- 
 lows the body on foot to the grave. Sometimes, 
 after the cofEn is committed to the grave, the con- 
 course goes to the church for a sermon. During 
 the whole time that the slow procession is walk- 
 ing from the house to the churchyard the church 
 bell tolls, or chorals are played from the tower. 
 During the dark and dreary days of winter, when 
 deaths are most frequent, this incessant, slow toll- 
 ing of the bell, telling its tale of the sad proces- 
 sional, is far from cheerful. One who is not ac- 
 customed to it is apt to resent so much demand 
 on one's sympathies and the constant turning of 
 one's thoughts into sorrowful channels. In the 
 country, where ancient superstition longer pre- 
 vails, there are many curious funeral customs. 
 
 Weddings. — Most interesting of all are the 
 wedding customs, in which the national senti- 
 mentality can find fullest expression. An en- 
 gagement is almost as binding as a marriage, and 
 is seldom broken. Announcement cards are sent 
 
46 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 out by the parents of the contracting parties, or 
 the betrothal is formally published in the news- 
 papers, . From the moment of the engagement 
 until the wedding ceremony is performed, the 
 girl is a "bride" and almost delirious is the ex- 
 citement and adoration she now excites among her 
 friends. 
 
 There are many more girls than men in the 
 towns, such numbers of the sterner sex being in 
 the enlisted service of their country, and to be 
 verlobt is a rare, and, accordingly, highly prized, 
 circumstance, which entitles the favored one to 
 unlimited congratulations and good-natured 
 envy. The happy couple are expected to be con- 
 spicuously sentimental, and seldom are those ex- 
 pectations disappointed. 
 
 Next to being one's self a bride, the most desir- 
 able event in life in South Germany is to be in- 
 vited to participate at a wedding. The invita- 
 tions are never very general and the favored 
 guests usually know long in advance of their pros- 
 pective inclusion in the joyous party, and can thus 
 widely inform their friends thereof, an essential 
 preparatory for their own share in the pleasures of 
 the hour. The ceremony is performed in church 
 and generally in the late morning. Sometimes 
 the procession rides, often it walks, a pretty pic- 
 ture in the narrow, quaint old streets, too cus- 
 tomary to excite disturbance. The bride is not 
 always in white dress, but wears, without fail, 
 the long veil and orange blossoms, while brides- 
 maids are fondest of pink and blue. The guests 
 wear their simple best, natural flowers often in 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 47 
 
 their hair, and carry stiff bouquets encircled with 
 lace paper. 
 
 The service Is no short affair; marriage is evi- 
 dently too solemn an event to be so lightly ac- 
 complished. Several hymns are sung, prayer 
 made, and a discourse, called the Rede, preached 
 to, or at, the happy couple. The church presents 
 a Bible as a wedding-gift, and all guests drop 
 money Into a box placed prominently on a chair 
 in the aisle, the contents to be given to some be- 
 nevolent object. The wedding dinner is gener- 
 ally eaten at a hotel or country inn, and is not 
 formal. 
 
 Wedding presents have all been sent before- 
 hand to the home of the bride ; now it is the turn 
 of her guests. During the morning their friends, 
 long made aware of the anticipated occasion, have 
 sent in to the hotel packages Individually ad- 
 dressed. After the repast is over, the toasts 
 drunken, the much decorated wedding cake cut 
 and its ring acquired, the waiters bring these 
 packages Into the room in large baskets and dis- 
 tribute them according to the addresses, each 
 guest's portion being called his or her Strauschen, 
 or bouquet. These are now opened. Some con- 
 tain handsome gifts, others only kindly jokes; 
 most of them are simple tokens of friendship. Al- 
 most all are accompanied by original verses, which 
 are read aloud and add much to the enjoyment 
 of the company. Then may follow an entertain- 
 ment gotten up by the bridesmaids and grooms- 
 men, on whom falls the responsibility of this part 
 of the festivity, and who have been for weeks 
 
4 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 planning and rehearsing. This is often an orig- 
 inal play based on some incidents in the career of 
 one or the other of the bridal pair, or an allegory, 
 of which the Germans are exceedingly fond. The 
 guests remain long after the departure of the 
 newly-wedded couple, now no longer "bride" and 
 "groom," and the day's dissipation is usually con- 
 cluded by a dance. 
 
 CHAPTER VI 
 Holidays and Festivals 
 
 The unity of family life is a noticeable Suabian 
 characteristic. The aged are treated with a 
 reverence and attention that are very tender, 
 and they in turn enter with hearty sympathy into 
 the sports of the young. Grandfather and grand- 
 child hop around to the strains of their beloved 
 waltz in the parlors of country inns, or at sum- 
 mer resorts, absolutely unconscious of anything 
 but their own enjoyment. Birthdays and anni- 
 versaries are pleasant events, celebrated by fam- 
 ily reunions when the children recite original 
 verse and act simple charades for the entertain- 
 ment of their elders, while all unite in playing 
 active games and dancing. During the day not 
 only do relatives and friends bring presents, for 
 which a table hung with garlands has been ar- 
 ranged, but acquaintances made a point of calling 
 to offer congratulations. 
 
 Christmas and Easter. — Christmas is, of 
 course, the great festival of the year. In Wiir- 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 49 
 
 temberg it is preeminently a religious festival, 
 celebrated, however, in the home. All the joy 
 and the good things come from the ''Christ-kind," 
 and when the families gather under the lighted 
 TannenbaumX^x tree), whose evergreen branches 
 stretch over the Putz^ and the Christmas gifts are 
 laid below, they listen to the recital from some 
 member of the household — preferably one of the 
 children — of the story of Christ's birth in a 
 manger and the joy of the shepherds over the 
 angelic message. Then Christmas hymns are 
 sung: ''O Du frohlichel O Du selige! Gnade 
 bringt die Weihnachtszeit/^ or Luther's hymn, 
 ^'Vom Himmel hoch da komm ich her!' etc. In 
 some simple country districts the Christ-child 
 himself is sometimes represented, but generally, 
 when fun and frolic call for a visible embodi- 
 ment of the Christmas joy, it is ''Prinz Ruprecht" 
 who appears as the children's friend and benefac- 
 tor. Cooking and baking have absorbed the pre- 
 vious days; a goose, if possible, graces the festal 
 board, and little cakes, Lebkuchen and Springerle, 
 are sent around to neighbors and given gener- 
 ously to children. 
 
 The Christmas festival embraces three days. 
 The 25th of December is the Weihnachtsfest; the 
 26th its first, and the 27th its second, holiday. 
 New Year's day has no special observance, but 
 the sixth of January is the Erscheinungsfest 
 (Epiphany), and mummers, dressed up as "Wise 
 Men," go about singing and receiving gifts. 
 
 Easter, besides its religious significance and ob- 
 sejv.^ace^, is the festival pf the hare, to whom is 
 
50 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 attributed all the kindly and homely offices which 
 bring joy to the children and their sympathizing 
 elders.* His ginger-bread counterfeit dominates 
 in all the shop windows, and is likewise omni- 
 present in china, wool, metal and paper repre- 
 sentations. On Easter morning children throng 
 the parks and retired places, searching for the 
 small packages of eggs and bon-bons which the 
 kindly disposed may have hidden under bushes, 
 or behind trees, in the name of the friendly hare. 
 ''Have you seen the rabbit anywhere?" greeted 
 me from many an excited group as I came down 
 a wooded hillside, after fulfilling my part of the 
 surprise program, and when I said, truthfully, 
 "Yes, up there it went," the rush upward was 
 immediate. Even in lands of their adoption the 
 Suabians observe this custom of the rabbit hunt. 
 
 Other Holidays. — There are many other holi- 
 days and religious and patriotic memorials. In 
 summer these are given up to out-of-town excur- 
 sions and jollifications. Especial occasions of 
 family reunion are the Kirchwethfests, the annual 
 celebrations of the anniversary of the consecration 
 of the different churches. These are held on Sun- 
 day and are merry affairs, bringing together the 
 scattered branches of families who return to hon- 
 or the church-home of their childhood. The great 
 national festival is the Cannstatt Volksfest, held 
 on the 27th of September, King William I.'s 
 birthday. Great crowds gather at this time, and 
 games, races and various shows occupy several 
 days. The different trades give representations 
 and rival each other in the wit and display of 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 51 
 
 their productions. This Volksfest has its echoes 
 wherever outside the Fatherland Suabians have 
 made their home. 
 
 Village Festivals. — Each village of any con- 
 sequence is entitled to hold a yearly fair, on a set 
 date, and is then called a Marktfleck, One 
 large enough to have a church vv^ith its own pas- 
 tor is a Pfarrdorfj and the name of the village, 
 and the two designations, Marktfleck and Pfarr- 
 dorf, with the number of the regiments re- 
 cruited from it, are all on the local signboards. 
 Larger towns have several fair days in the year, 
 and at those times the streets are full of wooden 
 booths, or tents, from which country people sell 
 all manner of wares, made by themselves or 
 procured on commission from the stores, and itin- 
 erant shows and fakirs amuse the crowds gath- 
 ered for the Jahrmarkt, Each town and village, 
 too, has its May festival, when sports, races and 
 competitions for the schoolchildren are held on 
 the common, and a procession and prize-giving 
 are included in the program. These are pleasant 
 occasions for the visiting stranger ; so many peas- 
 ant costumes and unusual sights and sounds can 
 be seen and heard, and the jollity is so general 
 and genuine as to be contagious. 
 
 Costumes of the Peoples. — The quaint, local 
 costumes of former times are not often to be seen 
 on the streets, except in certain districts. The av- 
 erage peasant woman wears a cotton frock and a 
 three-cornered handkerchief, or nothing at all, 
 on her head. In Betzingen a beautiful local cos- 
 tume can be seen. The men wear short jstckets, 
 
52 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 called Wamms, and long, tight trousers, or a coat 
 with long tails, reaching nearly to the ground, 
 over a- bright red vest, buttoned by a close row of 
 small silver buttons. Sometimes coat and trous- 
 ers are black, but in summer the youths wear 
 them of white, homespun linen and a small, round 
 white cap is worn jauntily on the head. The 
 women's caps are of peculiar shape, the rim gen- 
 erally of a fine purple and black check, and the 
 inside of pleated black silk, with long black rib- 
 bons down the back. Young and old wear their 
 hair in long braids. The skirts are black, short 
 and full, edged with gold braid, black velvet, or 
 bright colored ribbon. The bodice is laced with 
 gold braid and a gay-colored, short, top jacket is 
 worn over full white sleeves. Rows of beads and 
 bands of black velvet ribbon are worn around the 
 neck, Low shoes and open-work, white stock- 
 ings complete the costume. 
 
 Another dress seen in the Black Forest has a 
 very bright, colored apron over a short skirt, a 
 waist with curiously shirred and stuffed sleeves, 
 and a little black cap, decorated with gold em- 
 broidery and four long moire ribbon streamers. 
 Near Allerheiligen the costume is a full short 
 plisse skirt, full white sleeves and short bodice, 
 with real tatting lace pleated in the neck, and a 
 large white straw hat decorated with three red 
 rosettes. 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 53 
 
 CHAPTER VII 
 Some General Customs 
 
 One of the constant and entertaining diver- 
 sions of Wiirtemberg to the visitor is the local 
 newspaper. This is highly prized and univer- 
 sally read, and is a popular means of communi- 
 cating every kind of personal item that one may 
 desire to share with a sympathetic public. Hans 
 inserts a naive notice of his betrothal to Gretchen. 
 Frau Julie R., Wittwe (widow), and her five 
 sorrowing children, publish under their signa- 
 ture an announcement, heavily framed in black 
 lines, of the demise of their lamented husband 
 and father, not sparing any particulars of his 
 death and prospective burial, and often adding 
 where and how his business, now interrupted, 
 will in the future be carried on. Katrina cor- 
 dially thanks her friends for sending her bouquets 
 on some occasion, or helping her through a mov- 
 ing, etc. In villages without a daily newspaper 
 there is the town crier, who daily breaks the 
 monotony of the hours by his loud announce- 
 ment, first ringing his big bell to secure an audi- 
 ence of any official or local news that has been 
 given him to cry. Sometimes it is an enactment 
 of the village fathers, sometimes a piece of news 
 of national interest, again it may be a lost or 
 found proclamation; while often it is an an- 
 nouncement that some one in the neighborhood 
 has just killed a calf, portions of which are now 
 for sale! 
 
 Education is well cared for in Wiirtemberg. 
 
54 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 A school must be provided for every thirty fam- 
 ilies and attendance is compulsory. French and 
 English are important parts of the curriculum, 
 and the long list of Latin words brought home 
 for commitment each night by a palefaced boy 
 of nine aroused my constant sympathy. The 
 children study hard and the hours seem long. 
 There was an unnatural demureness about some 
 of these children. A frequent sight in my daily 
 walks was that of a long row of little girls stand- 
 ing with their backs to a wall knitting, while at 
 the same time they were watching younger 
 brothers and sisters at play around them. 
 
 The Soldiers. — Soldiers are not seen in great 
 numbers; one grows familiar with the uniforms, 
 but is not continually under the shadow of the 
 army. In the spring, when examinations for ser- 
 vice in the army and navy are held, the country 
 is flooded with the young Recruten, who are 
 privileged to go about for several weeks before 
 the time in gangs and allowed to make all the 
 noise they wish. These wander from tavern to 
 tavern, generally by cross-cuts through woods 
 and across hills, whistling or singing choruses, 
 bright-colored paper rosettes and streamers float- 
 ing from their hats. At first there seemed some- 
 thing riotous in the tramping throng, but more 
 frequent contact revealed the rural awkwardness 
 and homesickness behind the apparent bravado; 
 while the songs, which a stranger might imagine 
 to express only the bloodthirstiness of coming 
 warfare, proved to be the ballads of Uhland, even 
 one so tender and touching as "The Landlady's 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 55 
 
 Daughter." Hauff, in his novel of Ltchtenstein, 
 alludes to these choruses and quotes the follow- 
 ing as one often heard on the banks of the Neck- 
 ar: 
 
 "Scarcely thought 
 To its end, lo! joy was brought! 
 Yesterday on proud steeds hieing; 
 Shot to-day the heart through; lying 
 In to-morrow's chilling grave. 
 
 "But yet say, 
 'All earth's transports, what are they? 
 Pride ye on your beauty's blowing? 
 Cheeks with milk and purple glowing?* 
 See, the roses wither all! 
 
 "Therefore still 
 March I forth as God shall will. 
 Hear I then the trumpets calling, 
 Comes the moment of my falling, 
 I will die a soldier brive." 
 
 The singers were young Suabians about to en- 
 ter the service of their beloved Fatherland. 
 
 Titles of Classes. — Apart from the nobility 
 there is a decided class distinction, its full intri- 
 cacies presenting many difficulties to an outsider, 
 who is appalled by the extreme importance of 
 the etiquette of titles. 
 
 Mdme. de Stael says that all over Germany 
 a wife insists upon taking the title of her hus- 
 band with a feminine termination. Thus to the 
 ordinary difficulties of the German language must 
 be added, even in familiar conversation, the ne- 
 cessity of addressing one's new acquaintances as 
 Frau Stadt Pfarrer A., Frau Ober Consistorial 
 Rath B., etc. The substitution of Gnadige 
 Frau (Gracious Lady), or Hochgeborener 
 Herr (High Born Sir), is a way out of the se- 
 rious difficulty that here besets the foreigner, but 
 
56 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 one that does not come easy to a democratic 
 American. This last mode of address has a posi- 
 tive, comparative and superlative form. Wohl- 
 geboren w^ill do for a merchant, Hochgebor- 
 ener for one of the lesser nobility, and Hoch- 
 wohlgeborener for one of the higher. This is 
 the proper form of address in correspondence, 
 and opens up a way for many astute flatteries 
 from tradesmen, etc. The prefix *Von" indi- 
 cates aristocracy of birth, and those entitled to it 
 may rightfully have a coronet embroidered on 
 their handkerchiefs. 
 
 The seriousness of this question of titles w^as 
 borne in upon me one day when, after a railway 
 journey to find a certain official who could 
 give me some important desired information, 
 I was prevented from applying to him by my 
 accompanying Fraulein, because she heard he had 
 recently been promoted, but could not ascer- 
 tain his proper present title. To insult him by 
 the old one was impossible, and we journeyed 
 home again without the desired information. 
 
 Appearance of the Country. — Country life in 
 Wiirtemberg differs greatly from that in most 
 other lands, owing, probably, to the fact that 
 there are so few large country estates. The land 
 is divided into many small farms or holdings, in- 
 stead of being in the possession of large land 
 owners, and dirty villages with communal farms 
 are to be seen instead of large, well-kept estates 
 and their dependent tenantry. Women do heavy 
 work in the field, and there can but be dirt and 
 discomfort in the homes when the mother must 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 57 
 
 spend her day in hard manual labor outside. The 
 only refuge for the men is the village inn, never 
 an attractive place from an aesthetic point of 
 view, and one can understand the reason for 
 Mdme. de Stael's commentary that "stories, beer 
 and smoke of tobacco surround all the common 
 people of Germany with a thick atmosphere which 
 they are never inclined to escape." 
 
 The eye is struck by the absence of horses and 
 cattle in the country landscape. Oxen are a fre- 
 quent substitute for the former in the field ser- 
 vice, and dogs pull many of the carts, while 
 women carry heavy loads on their heads or push 
 small handcarts. I once saw six small boys 
 yoked together pulling a large hay wagon. The 
 towns are too cramped to need carriages, and life 
 too simple to afford them. Milkmen are all milk- 
 women, and their bright tin cans are carried in 
 handcarts or pulled by dogs. The thousand hills 
 are constantly around one in this rolling country, 
 but no cattle can be seen on them. These are 
 fed in their stalls on a mixed diet, not always to 
 be surmised, supplemented by grass which the 
 women gather and carry on their heads ofttimes a 
 weary way. It would not be possible to turn cat- 
 tle out in this fenceless land, where so much 
 "richness" in the way of beets, beans and cab- 
 bages covers the soil. 
 
 Grass is at a premium and therefore few close- 
 cut lawns are to be seen, thrifty owners prefer- 
 ring a small income from the renting of their 
 several longer cuttings. This accounts for the 
 usual untidiness, the roadside, churchyard and 
 
58 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 all stray corners being left for the general glean- 
 ing for the cattle. The result of this method is 
 poor milk and butter, and much deprivation for 
 the poor cattle, who never chew their cud in 
 green meadows or wade in quiet waters. Howitt 
 says, sympathetically: ''And when she dies, too, 
 miserable cow, she has not even the satisfaction 
 of dying fat!" Geese are better treated ; they can 
 be kept in a small inclosure with only one goose- 
 herd to lead them to and fro mornings and even- 
 ings — and goose livers are favorite delicacies. 
 
 Farms and Fruit. — Farm implements, as well 
 as the wagons, are exceedingly simple, and there 
 has, apparently, been but little evolution in 
 their form and construction, while the roads 
 are generally bad. There seems to be a general 
 regard for law. The regulation that after the 
 twenty- third of April no one can walk over the 
 meadows or grass lands, seems universally re- 
 spected, and the unfenced, communal, vegetable 
 gardens, which would seem to give such oppor- 
 tunity for constant, if petty, dishonesty and 
 thieving, do not prove occasions of much strife. 
 
 Fruit trees frequently are used as shade trees 
 along the highways, and the fertile valley land is 
 one great orchard — apple, pear and cherry — the 
 very abundance being, doubtless, sufficient safe- 
 guard for the fruit. There are many ingenious 
 ways of combining fruit cultivation with garden 
 decoration. Apricots and pears are trained up a 
 sheltering wall, or cut down to straight sticks and 
 placed like a dado around the house-walls. Ap- 
 ple trees are sometimes cut down to make a low 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 59 
 
 hedge; the trunks, planted at measured dis- 
 tances, are divided into two branches at about a 
 foot's height from the ground, and these branches 
 are trained along a wire to right and left until 
 each meets the next branch. In the towns there 
 are few gardens; space does not permit; but the 
 suburbs are bright with flowers around the little 
 homes, and the larger garden of a manor house is 
 sure to be a delight to any beholder. These houses 
 are most charming to visit, the refinement of cul- 
 ture being added to the universal grace of a 
 simple hospitality. 
 
 Country Cafes. — Instead of the few landed 
 estates, with their stately homes and parks as in 
 other lands, Wiirtemberg's hills and dales lay 
 open to the public and its people, and all visitors 
 find during the out-of-door season most friendly 
 welcome at the numerous cafes which fairly cover 
 the land. Not a country inn but has its orchard 
 and garden, the latter set with tables, and re- 
 freshment can be procured and is pleasantly served 
 at most trifling cost. In many places there is a 
 Tanzhoden, or dancing platform, where families 
 enjoy waltzing or play games with the children, 
 but wherever the view is fine, or the trees excep- 
 tionally large, or any other possible natural at- 
 traction can make any point allure, there can be 
 found some seats and tables, and beer or hot 
 drinks, with cake, etc., can be procured at any 
 hour. The very existence of the opportunity 
 proves the demand and the Suabian love for Na- 
 ture is constantly in evidence by the popularity 
 of these country retreats. 
 
6o IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 The J'dger, or forester, is a prominent char- 
 acter in all the folk lore, as much so as the 
 knight, for is he not the guardian of the forest 
 and all its treasures? In present times he has 
 lost much of the old-time mystery and popularity 
 through closer contact and increase in numbers, 
 but is still a picturesque figure in his green uni- 
 form with jaunty trimmings. All woods are 
 open to the public, and the system of forestry does 
 not interfere with their natural growth and 
 beauty, while it increases the accessibility of their 
 charms. 
 
 The Vineyards. — Undoubtedly the most strik- 
 ing feature in the great Rhine basin, seventy per 
 cent, of which is in Wiirtemberg, is the vineyard. 
 Vine culture is said not to be profitable; if so 
 the patience and endurance of the many toilers 
 seem the more remarkable, for enormous labor is 
 required before the red juice runs from the 
 wine-press. The vineyards are mostly small and 
 climb up the sunny slopes of the hills, many of 
 them veritable hanging gardens, requiring sus- 
 taining walls and reached by flights of steep stone 
 steps, up which all needed material and imple- 
 ments must be carried by hand, or on the head. 
 In February, or March, the work begins, and 
 men, looking from below like huge black beetles, 
 can be seen bent over at work on the dry vine 
 stocks. There is a disappointment in the ap- 
 pearance of ^Vineclad hills," for the result of so 
 much cutting and pruning is that the soil shows 
 more than the vines. **When," says Ugo Bassi — 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 6i 
 
 "The grace of the green vine makes all the land 
 Lovely in Spring time; . . . 
 Till the fair shoots begin to wind and wave 
 In the blue air." 
 
 the husbandman comes on 
 
 "With pruning hooks and shears, 
 And strips it bare of all its innocent pride 
 And wandering garlands, and cuts deep and sure." 
 
 Further south there are more artistic ways of 
 training these vines, on hop poles or over arbors, 
 but here they are simply planted at regular dis- 
 tances, kept short and thick, and treated only to 
 bear grapes. 
 
 "The bleeding limbs are hardened into wood; 
 The thinned-out branches ripen into fruit. 
 More full and precious, to the purple prime." 
 
 At the time of the vintage there is general re- 
 joicing. Owners of the several vineyards invite 
 their friends, who at least make a pretence at 
 helping cut off the grapes. There is much gaiety 
 and merriment at these vintage festivals, and after 
 dark the vineyard is often illuminated and fire- 
 works are set off. Most, made from pears, is a 
 drink used by many because of its cheapness. It 
 is, however, very sour. 
 
 One of the most successful government enter- 
 prizes has been the bringing of pure water from 
 the Alp, supplying thus one hundred and nine 
 communities. This is a great boon and water is 
 found most useful for many purposes, but it can- 
 not be expected to supplant beer and wine as the 
 preferred drink of the German people. 
 
62 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 CHAPTER VIII 
 The Neckar Valley 
 
 The- time of all times for a visitor's sojourn 
 in Wiirtemberg is in the spring, for then this 
 land of orchard, meadow and forest is in its 
 fullest glory. The Neckar Valley is all abloom; 
 great masses of white covering the levels, framed 
 by the bright green of the young beech leaves of 
 the forests upon the heights. Below the trees the 
 soft grass is purple with fragrant violets, blue 
 with forget-me-nots and icylla, yellow with prim- 
 roses and buttercups, white with anemones and 
 daisies. The wisteria twines its lavender blos- 
 soms along the roadside; perrwinkle, wild hya- 
 cinths, pinks and hosts of other flowers are in 
 bright bloom, while in the woods the deli- 
 cate lilies of the valley grow profusely. Later 
 come the gay poppies and cornflowers in the field. 
 Never anywhere could there be more profusion 
 or variety ; not hidden away for those who know 
 their haunts, but brightening every spot outside of 
 the town walls, free to all who will gather and 
 enjoy them; a May festival of flowers, called out 
 by the bright spring sun from this fertile soil, to 
 greet and beautify the world. No wonder every- 
 one goes a-Maying; who could help it? 
 
 The Rothenberg. — A favorite excursion dur- 
 ing blossom-time is up the Rothenberg, on the top 
 of which formerly stood the ancestral castle of the 
 Counts of Wiirtemberg, but now crowned by the 
 Mausoleum of King William I. and his first 
 Queen Katherine, a Russian princess. 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 63 
 
 "Aloft where the Suabian hilltops are serried, 
 The Suabians carried their king; to be buried. 
 His tomb on the Rothenberg high 
 Is capped by the clouds of the sky. 
 
 "Not first for himself did he fashion and build it, 
 The bride of his youth was the tenant who filled it. 
 Ere he in his age when he died 
 Was carried and laid by her side. 
 
 "He built it for love, yet it blazons his glory, 
 For all who behold it, or hear of the story, 
 Give honor, as honor is due, 
 To love and a lover so true." 
 
 The chapel is of Grecian architecture and with- 
 in are the four Evangelists, by Dannecker. One 
 cannot, however, linger long within the vault 
 when without the beauty of the springtime is so 
 alluring. Uhlbach, just below, is noted for its 
 cherries, now in the stage to delight the eye 
 rather than the palate, and the steep little hill- 
 top is completely surrounded by a billowy white 
 mass of blossoms. 
 
 My pilgrimage was made on May seventh, As- 
 cension Day, and because we would not leave 
 the dear old grandmother behind we went 
 by carriage. The road is steep and narrow, 
 mounting between stone walls, and on this holi- 
 day it was a stream of ascending and descending 
 pilgrims. Our heavy cab, the only available ve- 
 hicle, bumped heavily over the huge stones and 
 completely filled the way, causing pedestrians to 
 rush up the narrow stairways leading to the 
 vineyards on either side, or to scramble up the 
 straight stone walls. It was a fearful ascent, 
 tempered by the beauty of the view and the 
 amusing antics of the crowd. 
 
 Esslingen. — The old town of Esslingen, which 
 
64 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 has played always an important part In Suabian 
 history, is most beautiful of situation. It was one 
 of the free imperial towns founded by Emperor 
 Frederick II., and the lion of Hohenstauffen is 
 still to be seen carved on one of the old gates of 
 the city wall, portions of which are yet standing. 
 Some interesting medieval buildings remain — the 
 town hall and several churches, with high stone 
 towers. The most beautiful of these is the 
 Frauenkirche, erected 1406- 1522, and recently 
 restored, with a fine perforated spire. 
 
 Esslingen in 1900 had over 27,000 inhabitants, 
 but its life seems exceedingly quiet and con- 
 tracted in comparison with that of an American 
 town of the same size. The streets are nar- 
 row, crooked and ill-paved ; the buildings unpre- 
 tentious and crowded. Scarcely a horse is to be 
 seen, nor equipages or private carriages. There 
 are no distances to cover ; women, dogs and small 
 boys push the carts and people walk. There are 
 no large stores nor any window displays; only 
 little shops, and dress and its manifold absorp- 
 tions seem to play, consequently, a smaller 
 part in the daily thought of the population, al- 
 ways soberly attired and paying more attention to 
 comfort than to display. There is little walking 
 on the streets. One seldom meets an acquaint- 
 ance, and wonders how the people occupy them- 
 selves during the long months when the coun- 
 try outside is impracticable for excursions. An 
 island in the Neckar is laid out as a promenade, 
 but is never crowded. 
 
 Not far from the town is the royal domain of 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 65 
 
 Weil, where the King's studs are kept, and the 
 royal cattle-farm and tree nurseries are to be 
 seen, and annual races are held. 
 
 Charming excursions can be made to the many 
 royal villas in the vicinity — to the Rosenstein, 
 built in the Roman style, with colonnades, and 
 filled with paintings ; to the Wilhelma, erected by 
 King William I. in the Moorish style and sump- 
 tuously fitted up with beautiful gardens; or to 
 the Solitude, the first seat of the Karlschule, 
 where a deer park and wheycure establishment are 
 chief present attractions. Cannstatt, half way 
 between Esslingen and Stuttgart, has good min- 
 eral springs, and is well provided with all the 
 comforts and attractions of a popular health re- 
 sort. 
 
 Stuttgart, the Capital. — Stuttgart is encircled 
 with gardens and has much to interest the visitor. 
 On the Schlossplatz are the New and the Old 
 Palaces, the latter a most picturesque building, 
 with round towers and arcades, and, in the court, 
 is an equestrian statue of Count Eberhard im 
 Bart. In the Schillerplatz near by is a fine figure 
 of Schiller, by Thorwaldsen. Here, too, is the 
 Stiftskirche, which contains a number of monu- 
 ments and royal tombs. Of particular interest 
 are the eleven stone figures of the Counts of 
 Wiirtemberg, dating from the close of the Six- 
 teenth Century. Up in its church tower hangs 
 "The silver bell of Stuttgart," accounted one 
 of the most precious heir looms of the city. Each 
 night during five hundred years, at nine and again 
 at twelve o'clock, has it been rung with rapid, 
 
66 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 clamorous stroke, not tolled. The bell ringer is 
 paid from a perpetual fund, of which there is no 
 account in the city's records. Popular legend has, 
 therefore, established its version, according to 
 which the silver bell rings to quiet the soul of the 
 remorseful Ulrica, who, on the eve before Palm 
 Sunday in 1347, secretly murdered her mother, 
 about to become the bride of the girl's own lover. 
 Distracted by regret she pined away, after having 
 spent all her property in the purchase of this bell, 
 and the perpetual fund which keeps it sounding 
 through the centuries. 
 
 The collection of Wiirtemberg antiquities in 
 the the royal Library contains articles found on 
 the heathen tombs, besides many other curiosities 
 of later date. The Museum of Art has an inter- 
 esting collection of paintings and plaster casts. 
 The city is admirably laid out and has a number 
 of attractive parks and a beautiful country club — 
 the Silberberg. 
 
 The hills above the city command most exten- 
 sive views. An excursion by a little railway up 
 the Hasenberg is well worth while, and the Jager- 
 haus and Uhlandshohe, (where is shown the poet's 
 lime tree) are both beautiful spots, where one can 
 sit amid attractive surroundings and enjoy the 
 wonderful panorama spread out beneath. From 
 the Jagerhaus can be seen the entire chain of 
 the Suabian Alb, with the peaks of Hohenstauffen, 
 Rechborg, Hohenneuffen, the Achalm and Ho- 
 henzollern. Many charming places are within 
 easy distance by rail from Stuttgart. 
 
 The palace at Ludwigsburg, with its park and 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 67 
 
 beautiful pleasure house, ''Monrepos," well re- 
 pays a visit. This was founded at the beginning 
 of the Eighteenth Century by Duke Eberhard 
 Ludwig, and has since been a favorite royal resi- 
 dence. The court resided here during the days 
 of the infamous Countess of Gravenitz. 
 
 Tubingen. — A nearer excursion is to Tubin- 
 gen, sixteen to twenty miles from Stuttgart, ac- 
 cording to whatever guide-book you believe. This 
 old town crowns a hill on the banks of the Neckar 
 and the edge of the Black Forest, and has a truly 
 beautiful natural environment. Its old portion 
 is most quaint, with steep, narrow streets, but the 
 quarter about the New University is handsome 
 and pleasant. On a height above the city is the 
 old ducal castle of Hohentiibingen, an interest- 
 ing building of the Renaissance period, built by 
 Duke Ulrich in 1535. The exterior, with its beau- 
 tiful portal and fine view from its bastion, are 
 sufficient attractions, but the big cask and the tor- 
 ture chambers in the cellar will be found to be of 
 paramount value in the mind of the custodian. 
 The quaint old Stiftskirche contains some fine 
 glass and interesting stone-carved monuments of 
 some of Wiirtemberg's princes. The University, 
 which has given fame to this quiet town, was 
 founded in 1477 by Count Eberhard im Bart, *'to 
 the honor of God, for the encouragement, aid 
 and strengthening of all Christendom, and the 
 praise of the dukedom of Wiirtemberg; to ac- 
 quire honor, and advantage, and in the good 
 intention of opening up a well of life that from 
 all the evils of the world consoling and healing 
 
68 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 wisdom may perennially flow to the extinguish- 
 ing of the destructive fires of human Ignorance 
 and superstition; for pure, chaste hearts well 
 pleasing to God are attained in no other way so 
 easily and quickly as through wise instruction." 
 
 The University was established with fourteen 
 professorships, and in the first year had three hun- 
 dred and seventy-five students. Among its earlier 
 Instructors were the famous humanist, Johann 
 Reuchlin, and Melancthon. The fact that at that 
 time one-half of the counselors of the realm at 
 Stuttgart could neither read nor write, and that 
 no school for higher education existed in Wiir- 
 temberg, proves the need of the University's 
 founding. Since then the faculties have been In- 
 creased to seven, and in 1902 there were over 
 fifteen thousand students In attendance. The 
 founder and chief light of the advanced school 
 of theological criticism, known as the Tubingen 
 School, was Frederick Christian Baur, and Its In- 
 fluence on the development of religious thought, 
 though by many considered destructive, has been 
 very great. The four hundredth anniversary of 
 the University was celebrated with great pomp In 
 August, 1877. This program included a historical 
 play, depicting the leading features of the life of 
 the University through the successive centuries, 
 and a royal Klostesfest, given by the King as 
 host to the students and faculties at beautiful 
 Bebenhausen. 
 
 It was near Tubingen (KIrchentellinsfurt) 
 that Count Eberhard planted the white thorn 
 brought by him from the Holy Land. This grew 
 
I 
 
 IN SUABIA-LAND 69 
 
 to be a tree under whose shadow, as sing the chil- 
 dren of the Wiirtemberg schools, often sat the 
 Duke in his old age dreaming of ^'the old times 
 and the distant land." Unfortunately it has been 
 destroyed by fire. Three miles from Tubingen 
 is the ancient Cistercian Monastery of Beben- 
 hausen, founded in 1185, ^ Gothic structure of 
 exceeding beauty and interest. Restored by King 
 Karl to its old-time -state, it has since been used 
 as a royal hunting seat, and is a favorite sojourn- 
 ing place for the court in summer. 
 
 Lichtenstein Castle. — ^A visit to the Castle of 
 Lichtenstein is sure to be a delightful experience. 
 It was my good fortune to be there on a Whit- 
 monday, the day of the annual festival at the 
 Nebelhohle. To be on hand in good time for the 
 fete we spent Whitsunday at Honau, a wee little 
 village in the valley deep down below the castle 
 cliffs, where we found good board and pleasant 
 quarters with a villager, and were thus able to 
 enjoy a glimpse of life in this remote hamlet. The 
 Sunday sermon and its audience suggested vividly 
 the descriptions of Freitag. The procession of vil- 
 lage geese winding their independent way home 
 through the village at nightfall was an amusing 
 scene. In the morning a boy had collected and 
 led the flock to an enclosed pasture watered by 
 a wide, shallow brook; at evening all that was 
 necessary was that the gates should be opened. 
 Each goose joined in its own company and fol- 
 lowed its captain, and each flock marched sedately, 
 in goose file, to its own home barnyard. The 
 procession was long, the geese large and loqua- 
 
70 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 cious, and the effect correspondingly imposing. 
 To reach Honau we had come to Reutlingen, a 
 picturesque old town on the Echaz. As one of 
 the free imperial towns of the Suabian Alliance 
 it played an important part in the earlier history 
 of the country, especially during the times of 
 Duke Ulrich. From there we had driven in a 
 Beiwagon to Honau. On Monday morning we 
 found places in one of the many curious vehicles 
 impressed into service to carry the country peo- 
 ple to the fete, — a long affair, not unlike our 
 hay wagons, but not provided with any such 
 cushioning for the jolts. 
 
 The Nebelhohle is a stalactite grotto of con- 
 siderable dimensions, about three miles west of 
 the castle, and has become famous through Wil- 
 liam Hauff's popular novel Lichtenstein. It was 
 here that Duke Ulrich was concealed by his 
 barons during the long months of his exile, com- 
 ing each night to the castle for food and warmth. 
 The countersign given when he reached the draw- 
 bridge was ''Der Mann ist da' (the man is here). 
 The castle of those times no longer exists, but 
 Count William of Wiirtemberg has erected one 
 on the same spot, which is exceedingly picturesque. 
 Its situation is most impressive, a true eagle's nest 
 built out on an isolated rock, which Schwab says 
 "shoots up like a sunbeam,'* and is only accessible 
 by a drawbridge. In front is a precipitous fall, 
 and far below lies the green valley of Honau 
 threaded by its two winding streams. Beyond is 
 the Achalm and an extensive plain. When the 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 71 
 
 owner is not in residence visitors are admitted to 
 the castle. 
 
 Crossing the moat and drawbridge, one enters 
 a small courtyard, enclosed by servants' quarters, 
 and farther on finds a small garden shaded by old 
 lindens. A second drawbridge spans the chasm 
 between the mountain and the rock on which the 
 castle itself, built in medieval fashion, is perched. 
 The interior is handsomely finished, the walls 
 covered with frescoes of scenes in the life of Duke 
 Ulrich as depicted by Hauff, and contains a col- 
 lection of antiquities and armor. The view from 
 the high tower is exceedingly beautiful. 
 
 The vicinity of Castle Lichtenstein has been 
 made a literary shrine through the vivid descrip- 
 tions in HaufE's novel of that name, and it is his 
 characters whose memories here seem most real. 
 He has given associations to every nook and 
 described every locality. Fitting is it, therefore, 
 that a statue of the author has been erected on a 
 projecting rock outside the chateau, where he 
 can thus visibly preside as tutelary genius over the 
 place he has endowed with such popular immor- 
 tality in the hearts of his admiring countrymen. 
 On Whitsuntide, 1901, a dramatic representation, 
 arranged by Rudolf Lorenz from HaufiF's novel, 
 was given in the festival hall at Honau, in sight 
 of the castle, the players being from the surround- 
 ing country, and this is to be annually repeated. 
 On each Whitmonday the Nebelhohle is illum- 
 inated, two thousand small wax tapers being 
 stuck in the soft chalk of the walls and ceiling, 
 and the visitor is guided through the various 
 
72 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 caverns so graphically described by the novelist. 
 One sees the stalactite halls, the pillars, what is 
 described as the Throne, and Ulrich's Cave at the 
 farther end, and can listen to the echoes and feel 
 the desolation that must have been borne in upon 
 the lonely exile. 
 
 Up above, in the forest, the fete is held. Many 
 come from far and near, some bringing their pic- 
 nic dinner, others buying from the vendors, plen- 
 tifully supplied with hot meat dumplings and 
 other substantial viands. There was music and 
 dancing, and the gay costumes - of the peasants 
 made a striking picture. Betzingen, a town much 
 frequented by artists, is near by and nothing can 
 be gayer than a dance of the Betzingen youth 
 and maidens. The long white linen coat-tails flap 
 and wave with the active leaps of their wearers, 
 and the feet beneath the short full plisse skirts can 
 tread a lively measure. It was a jolly scene and 
 accompanied by no disorder. The Olgahohle 
 at Honau Is much smaller, but its stalactites are 
 less blackened by torch smoke. 
 
 The ascent of the high peak of Achalm is made 
 from Reutllngen. About half way up is the royal 
 sheep farm, and on top, in place of the ancient 
 stronghold so often taken and retaken during the 
 stormy days of Suablan history, is a huge, vaned 
 outlook tower, from which there is a most ex- 
 tensive view of the beautiful region below. 
 
 Excursions to Chapels. — Another charming 
 short excursion from Stuttgart is to Walderich's 
 chapel, at Murrhardt. This valley of the Murr 
 is of historic interest as having been the boundary 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 73 
 
 of the Roman Empire. Walderich's church is 
 built on the site and with the stones of an old Ro- 
 man fort, and the chapel is an exquisite example 
 of the late Romanesque style of architecture. Its 
 legendary origin dates from the days when King 
 Louis the Pious, son and heir of Charlemagne, 
 was betrayed by his people into the hands of his 
 unfilial sons. He fled into Suabia and here, where 
 the river Murr joins the Neckar, he was led, by 
 the tinkling of a little bell, to a cave inhabited by 
 a pious hermit, who received and sheltered him. 
 At parting the holy man, to whom had been re- 
 vealed in a dream the rank of his guest and his 
 future re-elevation to his throne, begged only for 
 the ground on which stood the humble hut, but 
 the King gladly promised a church and cloister 
 besides, and in time arose in the valley the beau- 
 tiful stone chapel called after the hermit Wal- 
 derich, with its cloister and charming garden. 
 Walderich was its first abbot and with him were 
 twelve monks of the Benedictine order. 
 
 Another easy pilgrimage is to the Regiswindis 
 chapel at Lauffen, whose old castle and church 
 stand picturesquely on two rocks on opposite 
 banks of the Neckar. Regiswindis was a Count's 
 little daughter, drowned by her nurse in revenge 
 for an injury and found floating days afterwards 
 on the river, with arms outstretched, so that the 
 body took the shape of a cross. This was enough 
 to create a saint, and a chapel was raised over the 
 child's burial-place. On the way from Stuttgart 
 are some Roman and medieval ruins, and just 
 beyond LaufiEen is the very interesting old town 
 
74 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 of Hellbronn, now a busy manufacturing city. 
 This has been immortalized by Goethe and relics 
 of his knight, Gotz von Berlichingen, of the Iron 
 Hand; abound. Emperors and kings have here 
 held court in what is now known as the "Deutsche 
 Haus." Behind the fine church of St. Kilian is 
 the Heilbrunnen (healing well) from which the 
 town derives its name. 
 
 Maulbronn has a beautiful Cistercian Abbey, 
 consecrated in 1187 and added to through subse- 
 quent centuries. It is one of the best preserved 
 of the older monasteries of Germany, and has 
 been lately restored. Near here are the ruins of 
 Hohenasperg, first a fortress, then a state prison, 
 where some illustrious prisoners have been con- 
 fined. The Benedictine monastery at Lorch was 
 founded by the Hohenstauffens in 1102, and con- 
 tains several of their tombs and monuments. 
 
 Famous Springs and Cures. — There are said 
 to be seventy-five mineral springs in Wiirtemberg, 
 and at each are attractions provided for the vis- 
 itor. About sixty-five hundred summer guests 
 come annually to Wildbad, situated in the nar- 
 row ravine of the Enz in the Black Forest, and 
 this watering-place is equipped with all the amuse- 
 ments and pleasure-grounds which numerous 
 large hotels create around them. 
 
 A ver)^ different atmosphere, however, is that 
 breathed at Bad Boll, under the charge of the 
 pious Blumhardt family. This establishment, 
 with its sulphur baths, was bought of the King 
 of Wiirtemberg about 1850 by Pastor Blumhardt, 
 father of the present head of the family, and is a 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 75 
 
 quiet retreat for those seeking peace of mind and 
 religious meditation. In the time of the elder 
 Blumhardt faith-healing, by prayer, was a fea- 
 ture of the place, but now the cure sought seenis 
 to be that of the mind and soul rather than of 
 the body. Religious services are held daily and 
 an earnest devotional spirit pervades the place, 
 all whose inmates dwell together as members of 
 one family. Rank is never considered ; a countess 
 sits contentedly next to a mechanic; indeed, of 
 late the establishment has fallen into disfavor with 
 many of its former patrons because of the growth 
 of its socialistic tendencies. The grounds are very 
 attractive; there are natural woods and fields 
 overrun with flowers, and the building is most 
 simple in its furnishings. The different Blum- 
 hardt families live there as patriarchal heads of 
 a tribe of followers and carry on practical farm- 
 ing. To reach this really charming retreat of 
 ''The Simple Life" we went to Goppingen, then 
 drove the four miles to Bad Boll. 
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 The Suabian Alb 
 
 No visitor to Wiirtemberg will tarry long 
 before exploring the high, cone-shaped hills of the 
 Suabian Alb, whose beauties so fascinate from 
 every point of view in the Neckar Valley. The 
 country, though wooded and picturesque, is not 
 wild and pleasant retreats are numerous. Not 
 much equipment but a wanderer's staff and « 
 
76 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 friendly disposition is needed. The wallet counts, 
 of course, but one's wants are limited and the de- 
 mands will not prove excessive. In 1889 an "Alb- 
 Verein." was organized by the late Dr. Saltz- 
 mann of Esslingen, which now numbers over 
 twenty-five thousand members and is a popular 
 enthusiasm of the Schwabs. Its aim is to cultivate 
 the love for mountain excursions and to increase 
 facilities for the excursionists. 
 
 From the broad platform on top of the Rech- 
 berg is obtained, perhaps, the finest view. There 
 are the ruins of an old castle and a pilgrimage 
 chapel, where can be obtained a lunch by day but 
 no camp by night. Undoubtedly, however, the 
 peak of the HohenstaufFen, so rich with historic 
 associations, most allures. Nothing is left of the 
 ancient castle on the summit, which was de- 
 stroyed in 1525 during the Peasant War, and the 
 small church is the only relic of the lordly House 
 of Hohenstauffen still standing. 
 
 On its restored gable is the imperial eagle, and 
 around it are the names of the Emperors of this 
 famous family, whose race became so early ex- 
 tinct. The armorial bearings of the seven an- 
 cient Electorates of Germany, those of the 
 former kingdoms of Jerusalem and of the other 
 countries over which these Imperious Emperors 
 ruled — Burgundy, Holland, Denmark, Poland, 
 Sardinia, Naples — are there emblazoned, and on 
 one wall is an old fresco of Frederick Barbarossa 
 with its Inscriptions of the Sixteenth Century, re- 
 cording that the Emperor "amor bonorum, terror 
 malorum" entered by that door, now long ago 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 77 
 
 walled up. On a lower peak of the hill are the 
 ruins of the Castle of Hohenrechberg, which was 
 burned in 1865. 
 
 The Siege of Hohenstauffen. — Most different 
 must be the view that now greets the eye from 
 that stretch of thickly wooded country that lay 
 beneath the gaze of those knights and squires who 
 built and occupied these strong towers on the hill- 
 tops; and to replace present associations by past 
 ones the traveler must let memory recall the in- 
 cidents and traditions of the royal family life in 
 their ancestral castle which have come down to 
 us. One of the earliest of these pictures of the 
 past, perhaps, is that given by Belschner — a Wiir- 
 temberg historian — of a happening about 1127, 
 when King Lothair of Saxony, warring against 
 Suabia, laid siege to this Hohenstauffen fortress, 
 because within it were the dearest things that 
 Duke Frederick possessed, namely, his wife and 
 children. Fear fell upon the household as they 
 saw the large besieging army and knew their own 
 weak condition — a few dependants under the 
 charge of a ninety years old castellan, Sueneger — 
 and that no word could reach their absent lord. 
 Food and water soon failed, and the little Fred- 
 erick, with the blue eyes and blond hair, who af- 
 terwards became the famous Barbarossa, shared 
 his portion with the rest. The Dutchess became 
 very ill, and the only hope was In the return of 
 Duke Frederick, for whom a sharp watch was 
 kept from the tower. 
 
 One afternoon came the news, filling all hearts 
 with hope, that the returning army could be seen 
 
78 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 on Its way from Gmund. Alas! the approaching 
 banners proved, on nearer view, to be those of 
 Henry, Duke of Bavaria, brother to Duchess 
 Judith, but enemy of her lord, on his way to join 
 the besiegers. The watch hastened again to the 
 Duchess with the evil tidings. Then her heart 
 broke with sorrow, and with a despairing cry she 
 fell dead. Great was the grief at the death of the 
 beloved lady, and mournful the laments of the 
 royal children, while in the midst of all came a 
 herald with a demand for surrender. The old 
 castellan made reply: "Grant us a two-day truce. 
 We have in our midst a distinguished corpse and 
 beg for security while we bury our dead at 
 Lorch." King Lothair granted the request and 
 the castle gate opened for the funeral procession. 
 Behind the chaplain was carried the coffin cov- 
 ered with flowers and the arms of the Stauffens 
 and Welfs ; then followed the old castellan, lead- 
 ing little Frederick by the hand, and, lastly, came 
 the two little daughters. When the procession 
 had reached the tents of King Lothair and Duke 
 Henry, old Sueneger called to the bearer to put 
 down the coffin, took off the cover and, turning 
 to the King, said: "That you may see that we 
 practice no deceit look upon the corpse." 
 
 Then fell Duke Henry's gaze on the white 
 face of his dead sister, whose heart he had bro- 
 ken, and grief overcame the strong warrior. He 
 sank down on his knees by the coffin, and his tears 
 dropped upon the thin folded hands. He and all 
 his knights accompanied the body to Its burial, 
 and afterwards he bade goodbye to King Lothair 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 79 
 
 and withdrew his force. The scene had made so 
 sorrowful an impression also upon the King that 
 the same day on which Duchess Judith's body was 
 laid to rest in the cloisters of Lorch saw the 
 withdrawal of all the besieging army. 
 
 Songs of Love. — Other pictures are more 
 peaceful. From the burg went out the warring 
 bands, but within its walls did the knights and 
 ladies find time for chivalrous amusement and do- 
 mestic relaxation. The young heirs learned to 
 mount their steeds and throw their lance; the 
 dames embroidered tokens and reared children. 
 Here, in the long dull winter evenings, collected 
 the household around roaring log-fires and lis- 
 tened to the lay of the minnesinger, or the tale of 
 the wandering minstrel. Here, on this very hill- 
 top, did Walter von der Vogelweide, friend and 
 companion to Emperor Frederick, sing praises 
 to the beauty and purity of the fair dames of the 
 imperial household, as well as of the Nature he 
 loved so well. Gathered in the great hall of the 
 castle, the ladies probably on a dais, embroidering, 
 servants below working, logs crackling, torches 
 blazing, the warriors recounted deeds of valor 
 and the wonders of the foreign lands they had 
 seen in the Crusades. From time to time would 
 the talk cease as all listened to the sweet song 
 of the prince of minnesingers as he chanted, per- 
 haps, the following love-song: 
 
 "Thoroughly sweet and full of loveliness are 
 pure women. There was never anything so 
 lovely in all the air, or on earth, or in all the 
 green meadows. Lilies and roses, when they 
 
8o IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 shine in the May dew through the grass, and 
 the song of little birds, are, compared with this 
 charm, without color or sound. If one sees beau- 
 tiful women, that can refresh the troubled spirit 
 and extinguish at the same time all lamenting, 
 when their sweet red lips entrancingly laugh in 
 love, and arrows dart from their eyes to the bot- 
 tom of man's heart."* 
 
 To-day all this has vanished, save in mem- 
 ory, but there is still a power in the past 
 that holds sway over the thoughtful visitor who 
 reclines dreamingly on the greensward under the 
 gaze of the imperial eagle on the church-gable. 
 
 On the Hohenneuffen. — For natural beauty 
 the traveller will now turn to the Leininger Val- 
 ley, one of the most beautiful in the whole Alb, 
 from where he can ascend to the ruined ances- 
 tral castle of the Duke of Teck, also command- 
 ing a fine view. From the dales the eye is con- 
 tinually drawn to the picturesque hills; from the 
 hilltops it rests, admiringly, on the beautiful val- 
 leys of the Neckar and its tributaries, their or- 
 chards and vine-planted slopes, and the many 
 towns and villages which dot the plains. 
 
 Conspicuous from below is the Hohenneuffen, 
 its top crowned by the imposing ruins of an an- 
 cient fortress. Legends cluster here, often con- 
 tradictory, of the ^'white ass of Hohenneuffen," 
 whose hoof long remained nailed on the wall of 
 the porter's lodge. Some say that it was the 
 means of delivery from siege, through trickery. 
 Although in sore distress for food, the garrison 
 
 •Mrs. Hosmer. 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 8i 
 
 had caused the ass to be well fattened and then 
 thrown over the walls. The enemy, thinking 
 that if an ass should be so fat the fortress' sup- 
 plies must be inexhaustible, withdrew from the 
 siege. 
 
 Prettier than this tale is the poet's story of the 
 fair Vola, daughter of the lord of the castle, 
 who, aware of the giving out of their water sup- 
 ply, slipped out at night, though with her father's 
 consent, and on this snow white ass made her 
 perilous descent into the camp below. The leader 
 was her lover, and her mission was to ransom, by 
 gift of herself, her father's castle, which was 
 happily accomplished. 
 
 To Hohen XJrach. — Another charming excur- 
 sion is to Hohen Urach. The path through the 
 beech woods is very attractive, and on top is the 
 ruined fortress. Interest here centres on the true 
 and tragic story of the poet, Frischlin. Professor 
 at Tubingen University, a brilliant scholar and 
 poet, he was a democratic son of the people and 
 was accused of preaching the revolutionary doc- 
 trine that, if Suabia must have an aristocracy at 
 all, it should be one based on merit, not birth. In 
 those days these were treasonable thoughts, and 
 therefore was Frischlin, in the year 1590, ar- 
 rested and carried to the fortress of Hohen 
 Urach. Separated from his true and beautiful 
 wife. Marguerite, his one thought was to regain 
 his freedom. Making a cord of torn clothing and 
 blankets, he attempted to lower himself over the 
 precipice, but was dashed to pieces on the rock? 
 below. 
 
82 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 The waterfall of Urach is quite famous, drop- 
 ping to a depth of eighty feet. The best view is 
 from the point below, called the Olga Ruhe in 
 commemoration of a visit of Queen Olga to the 
 falls. A pleasant place for a sojourn here on the 
 Alb is the quaint town of Urach, which can be 
 made the centre of many interesting excursions. 
 
 Castle of HohenzoUern. — Another Mecca to 
 the traveler is the Castle of HohenzoUern, situ- 
 ated on an isolated, wooded eminence near Hech- 
 ingen. The old castle, the cradle of the reigning 
 dynasty of Prussia, was destroyed in 1423, but on 
 its ruins was built, in the latter part of the 
 Nineteenth Century, the present magnificent 
 structure in the style of the Fourteenth, by Em- 
 peror Frederick William. The entire summit of 
 the high rock is enclosed by high walls in the 
 shape of a heptagon, with bastions and corner tur- 
 rets. Within these is the castle, comprising five 
 towers, a court and garden, two chapels and a 
 barrack. A company of infantry is stationed 
 here. The Hohenzollerns, whose name is derived 
 from this ancestral castle Zollern, occupied an im- 
 portant position among the small princely 
 Suabian families as early as the Twelfth Century. 
 "Acquisitiveness and a capacity to hold what was 
 once obtained and to administer it with thrift, 
 seems to have characteristized, to a greater or 
 less degree, all the Franconian HohenzoUern 
 princes," says a writer. In 141 5 this line ob- 
 tained the Brandenburg Electorate as a pledge for 
 a loan to Emperor Sigismund; in 1701 the 
 Elector became King of Prussia, and in 1871 it 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 83 
 
 was William of Hohenzollern who was acclaimed 
 Emperor of Germany at Versailles. The province 
 of Hohenzollern covers 440 square miles ; is com- 
 pletely surrounded by Baden and Wiirtemberg, 
 and crossed by the Danube and the ''rauhe Alb." 
 Fortress of Hohentwiel. — The historic fortress 
 of Hohentwiel makes an imposing ruin, and the 
 view from the top of this high, detached, vol- 
 canic cone is most extensive, commanding Lake 
 Constance and the Tyrolese Alps, reaching even 
 to Mt. Blanc. The stronghold was almost im- 
 pregnable by situation, perched on the steep, high 
 rock, which rises nearly perpendicularly on the 
 side near Singen. After having resisted many 
 sieges, it yielded without a blow, in 1800, at the 
 demand of the French General, Van Damme, and 
 was destroyed by Napoleon's orders in October 
 of the same year, contrary to the terms of the ca- 
 pitulation. The hero of Hohentwiel was Conrad 
 Wiederhold, who commanded the fortress for 
 fourteen years, during the period of the Thirty 
 Years War. A brave, devoted captain, he led 
 the bold company of one hundred musketeers, 
 who comprised his entire garrison, on many suc- 
 cessful exploits, constantly making forages on the 
 enemy and returning with various plunder — once 
 with an organ for his new church on the hill. The 
 sick, poor and wounded were tenderly cared for 
 at his table, for a warm heart accompanied the 
 fearless spirit. Under the bust on his grave at 
 Kircheim is the epitaph: 
 
84 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 "The commandant at Hohentwiel, 
 Firm as his rock which never yielded; 
 The defence of Princes ; the vexation of the enemy ; 
 The friend of art; the refuge of the poor; 
 A citizen, hero and Christian like gold — 
 So sleeps here Conrad Wiederhold. 
 
 City of TJlm. — Next to the capital the largest 
 city in Wiirtemberg is Ulm, situated at the head 
 of navigation on the Danube. This city has a 
 dignified, medieval appearance, with quaint, nar- 
 row streets, and Sixteenth Century architecture. 
 It was the most important of the Suabian free 
 imperial cities, and is mentioned as early as 854. 
 Ulm was the spot where the meistersingers lin- 
 gered longest, "preserving without text or notes 
 the traditional love of their craft." The pride 
 and chief attraction of Ulm is the beautiful Early 
 Gothic Protestant Cathedral, next to Cologne the 
 largest in Germany, holding thirty thousand peo- 
 ple. On the 30th June, 1377, the cornerstone of 
 this wonderful Miinster was laid, amid great 
 enthusiasm. 
 
 Lake Constance. — ^A beautiful place of sojourn 
 is Lake Constance, which lies between Wiirtem- 
 berg and Switzerland, a mirror for the Alps be- 
 yond. It is about forty-two miles in length and 
 eight miles in breadth, and its picturesque and 
 wooded banks and islands with the distant hills 
 and snow-clad mountains, make it a most attrac- 
 tive resort. Steamboats ply constantly between the 
 principal places, and delightful excursions can be 
 made in all directions. The banks of the lake 
 belong to five different states, viz., Bavaria, 
 Wiirtemberg, Baden, Switzerland and Austria. 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 85 
 
 Fried richshaf en Is a quiet, pretty modern town, 
 founded by King Frederick of Wiirtemberg. 
 
 The Black Forest. — In the southwest lies the 
 great Black Forest, so magical in allurement to all 
 those who love the absolute seclusion and wildness 
 of Nature. Released from superstitious fear of 
 the mysterious, legendary spirits with which the 
 old folk-lore peopled these forest glades, their 
 fabled existence adds yet a delightful glamour of 
 mystery and romance to the Schwarzwald, so 
 called from the dark-tinted foliage of its many 
 evergreens. The scenery is not grand; the hills 
 do not rise into peaks, but are rather rounded 
 plateaus, separated from each other by the deep 
 ravines of the streams. The trees are small, 
 mostly evergreens, but mingled with oak and 
 beech ; it is their vast succession and the absolute 
 seclusion that so impress and delight. The for- 
 est, which contains about 1,900 square miles, is 
 in the shape of a triangle, its base resting on the 
 Rhine between Lake Constance and Basle, and its 
 apex pointing north. The descent on the Rhine 
 side is precipitous. 
 
 Only one-third of the Black Forest belongs to 
 Wiirtemberg; the most frequented portion is in 
 Baden, around Fribourg. It is rich in mineral 
 springs and gives rise to the Danube and the 
 Neckar, as well as the smaller streams of the 
 Murr, Kinsig, Elz, Enz and Wiessen. Its great- 
 est elevation Is the Feldberg, 4,892 feet. Near 
 this Is the Holle (Hell) Pass, a narrow ravine 
 shut In by high mountain sides, celebrated in con- 
 nection with General Moreau's retreat in 1796. 
 
86 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 The soil is poor for agriculture, but cattle-rear- 
 ing is carried on successfully. The inhabitants 
 are a simple, kindly folk, who have woven and 
 inherited a tissue of legends which hover over the 
 entire region and make deep impress on the life 
 and customs of the scattered villages. The chief 
 occupation is the manufacture of wooden articles, 
 especially of the so-called ''Dutch clocks," many 
 of which are most ingeniously automatic. Music 
 boxes are also made in considerable quantities. 
 
 CHAPTER X 
 Art and Literature 
 
 "They sing of love and Springtime, of happy golden days; 
 Of manly worth and freedom, of faith and holy ways. 
 They sing of all things lovely that human hearts delight. 
 They sing of all things lofty that human souls excite.' 
 
 — Uhland. 
 
 There has never been a Suabian ''school of 
 painting," and no great artists have arisen within 
 her borders. Most of the early fresco-paintings 
 on the walls of the cloisters and chapels were long 
 ago painted over. Some of these have, however, 
 been restored during the last two decades. Al- 
 tar-pieces of the Fourteenth Centur}^ are quite 
 numerous. The most important painter of that 
 time was Bartholomew Zeitblom. The sculptor, 
 Dannecker (i 758-1 841), has, perhaps, con- 
 tributed the most glory to the native art of 
 Wiirtemberg. He was the son of a groom in 
 the service of the Duke of Wiirtemberg; was 
 born at Waldenbuch and educated at the Karl- 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 87 
 
 schule, where he formed a life friendship with 
 Schiller. Later he studied at Paris, and in Rome 
 came under the teaching and influence of Ca- 
 nova. Dannecker was undoubtedly one of the 
 greatest of modern sculptors. He was director 
 of the Art School at Stuttgart, and with his 
 associate, P. T. Schiffauer, (1756-1808), intro- 
 duced the classic spirit into German art. His 
 finest works are not, however, to be found in 
 Wiirtemberg. They are the "Ariadne," at 
 Frankfort, and a statue of Christ, which is in one 
 of the Moscow churches. A fine bust of Schiller 
 by him is in the Stuttgart Art Museum. 
 
 Architecture. — The first example of Suabian 
 architecture is the cloister at Hirsau, consecrated 
 1 09 1. This is in the Roman style, as were all 
 the buildings of the Tenth to the Thirteenth 
 Centuries, of which other fine specimens can be 
 seen at Ellwangen, Alpirsbach, Lorch, Reichen- 
 bach, Komburg, etc. The Cistercian cloisters, 
 especially of Maulbronn and Bebenhausen, are 
 masterpieces of this architecture of the Middle 
 Ages. In the Thirteenth Century the pointed 
 arch of the Early Gothic style was introduced. 
 One of the earliest and finest specimens of this 
 style is the Marienkirche in Reutlingen. Begun 
 in the Romanesque style, in 1247, it was finished 
 nearly one hundred years later , in the Early 
 Gothic. Other specimens of this style can be 
 seen in Leonberg, Waiblingen, Esslingen, Bob- 
 lingen, Heilbrunn, Lauf^fen, etc. 
 
 By 1350 the true Gothic was universally estab- 
 lished, and now arose those beautiful spires of 
 
88 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 stone lacework, such as the Frauenkirche of 
 Esslingen and the Ulm Miinster. To this period 
 belong some beautiful carvings and stone reliefs, 
 as those of the Church of the Holy Cross at 
 Gmund ; the fine ^'bride relief' of the Rottweiler 
 Chapel, and the side portal of the Ulm Miinster. 
 In 1500 there was a change to the Renaissance 
 style, and in this are built the many castles and 
 public buildings with which the Wiirtemberg 
 Dukes so adorned their realm. The greatest 
 builder was Duke Karl, who also established the 
 Academy of Art and the Karlschule. 
 
 Songs of Suabia. — ^The beginnings of Suabian 
 literature can be traced to the days of the Teu- 
 tonic migrations, but there is little that survives 
 of the heroic songs of that barbaric time. Sup- 
 pressed by the conscientious zeal of missionary 
 and monk, it was but a vague tradition that lin- 
 gered, reappearing only later in the folk-song of 
 the people. As the dawn of the new civilization 
 succeeded the night of barbarism, we have but 
 monkish writings, until, under the impressive 
 Hohenstauffen Emperors, culture became an at- 
 tribute of courts, and the lays of the minnesinger 
 were heard in Germany. 
 
 This was the period of the isolated castle on the 
 top of the mountain, with the small village below, 
 and, while the burghers imitated their lords, there 
 was a distinct difference in subject and treat- 
 ment between the Popular Poetry and the Court 
 Epic. The subjects of the former were the great 
 national traditions, which the church had but 
 partially succeeded in obliterating from the popu- 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 89 
 
 lar heart and mind. The latter treated mostly of 
 foreign adventure and the chivalry of France and 
 Italy, of Charlemagne and his paladins, of King 
 Arthur and his knights, of the heroes of Italian 
 troubadour and French trouvere. 
 
 Of the Popular Poetry the most important is 
 the Epic of the Niebelungen Lied, which has 
 come down from the year 1200, and parts of 
 which were in existence one thousand years 
 earlier. This poem, of nine to ten thousand lines, 
 reflects the dark imagery of the North rather than 
 that of the sunnier South, and is of wondrous 
 force and beauty. The compiler is unknown, but 
 he performed his work with rare skill, arranging 
 the lays of the people, heretofore orally transmit- 
 ted, into this great poem, since become the na- 
 tional Epic 
 
 Longfellow says that the first stanza of the 
 Song of the Niebelungen^ like the overture of an 
 opera, contains the theme of the whole piece : 
 
 "In ancient song and story marvels high are told, 
 Of nights of high emprize and adventures manifold; 
 Of joy and merrv feasting, of lamenting, woe and fear; 
 Of champions' bloody battles many marvels shall ye hear." 
 
 The Heldenbuch is a collection of early national 
 traditions in poetic form, the oldest of which are 
 said to belong to the Suabian period. 
 
 Among the court singers stands out Walter 
 von der Vogelweide, not of Suabian birth, but 
 intimate comrade of Emperor Frederick II., him- 
 self a minnesinger — in whose German domains 
 his life was chieflly spent. If for nothing else 
 than his love for Germany, he deserves a place 
 among her poets. The minnesingers were not all 
 
90 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 of so lofty a character. Some were affected and 
 absurd, but all mirrored more or less the life 
 about them. The great names among the court 
 singers are Hartmann von Aue, Gottfried von 
 Strassbourg, and Wolfram von Eschenbach. 
 
 The Meistersingers. — Following the brilliant 
 epoch of the Hohenstauffens, there was a great 
 change in German life, which now centred in the 
 cities, and literature turned from the castle and 
 hall to address itself to the burghers. The suc- 
 cessors of the minnesingers were the meister- 
 singers, no longer men of knightly valor, but wan- 
 dering minstrels and poets of inferior rank and 
 birth, and often of corrupt life, who made their 
 poetry a profession. It was these who went 
 about from place to place engaging in contests, 
 romantic accounts of which have come down to 
 us. Successful contestants were richly deco- 
 rated, silver chains put about their neck and 
 wreaths on their heads, and they received great 
 popular applause. "The names of some of the 
 favorite airs that have come down to us," says 
 Hosmer, "are very fantastic: 'The Striped-saf- 
 fron Flower-tune of Hans Findeisen,^ *The Eng- 
 lish Tin-tune of Casper Enderles,' *The Blood- 
 gleaming Wire-tune of Jobst Zolner,' 'The 
 Many-colored Coat-tune of F. Fromer.' " 
 
 Longfellow says of the meistersingers that they 
 "were for the most part mechanics, who had in- 
 corporated themselves into guilds, or singing- 
 schools, and beautified their daily toil by the 
 charms of song: 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 91 
 
 "As the weaver plied the shuttle wove he too the mystic 
 
 rhyme, 
 And the smith his iron measures hammered to the anvil's 
 
 chime. 
 Thanking God, whose boundless wisdom makes the flower 
 
 of poesy bloom 
 In the forge s dust and cinders, in the tissues of the loom." 
 
 The organization was at first known as "The 
 Corporation of the Twelve Wise Masters." In 
 1820 there were still twelve meistersingers living 
 in Ulm, and in 1839 the four survivors formally 
 made over their insignia and guild property to a 
 modern singing society, thus closing the record of 
 Meister-gesang in Germany. 
 
 Suabian Learning. — Learning now became 
 more general, and it was said that in 1492 the 
 humblest knight could read and write; while a 
 historian of that time declared that out of no 
 other nation went forth so many clergymen, 
 teachers and musicians as out of Suabia. The 
 first physician mentioned by name was Nicholas 
 von Schwerdt, of Gmund, in the year 1405, while 
 the Court Apothecary shop founded in 141 3 was 
 long the only one in the Dukedom. Printing 
 presses were found in the larger cities after 1468. 
 The first public library in Germany was that of 
 the Ulm Miinster (1433). 
 
 During succeeding centuries there is no especial 
 name that adds lustre to Suabian literature. Jo- 
 hann Kepler, the famous astronomer, was born at 
 Wiel in 1571. On account of his unorthodox be- 
 liefs he was persecuted, although all Europe was 
 filled with the fame of his discoveries. His mother 
 was accused of being a witch, but finally was 
 
9i IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 freed, while Kepler's life was one continuous 
 struggle for the bare means of subsistence. 
 
 Christian Daniel Schubart (i 739-1 791), poet, 
 story-teller and musician, was a man of great 
 talent, but dangerous frankness of speech. In pub- 
 lishing the Deutsche Chronik, he offended Duke 
 Karl, who kept him imprisoned in the fortress of 
 Hohenasperg for ten years, after which he was 
 court poet and theatre director in Stuttgart. He 
 had great poetic gifts, but their expression was 
 sadly hindered by his dissipated life. 
 
 The poet and humanist. Christian Martin 
 Wieland, was born in Oberholzheim in 1733. 
 He studied law at Tubingen, was called in 1769 
 to Erfurt as Professor of Philosophy, and in 1772 
 went to live in Weimar as instructor of the young 
 Crown Prince, Karl August. At the age of 
 twenty-four his fame was established by the ap- 
 pearance of his play, Muscarion. He was not a 
 creative genius, but gained the ease and charm of 
 his style through hard labor. Of his Oberon 
 Goethe said : ^*As long as poetry remains poetry, 
 gold gold, and crystal crystal, it will be loved and 
 admired as a masterpiece of poetic art." His ro- 
 mance, called The Abderites, is exceedingly hu- 
 morous and absurd. It is an account of a great 
 law suit in Abdera, brought by a donkey driver 
 against a dentist, who sat down and rested one hot 
 day in the shadow of the donkey and yet refused 
 later to pay the driver's bill for that privilege. 
 In the end the entire population of the city was 
 divided into parties called "asses" and "shadows," 
 between whom the feud was bitter and amusing, 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 93 
 
 the whole being a satire on the evils of litigation. 
 Shakespeare was made familiar to German read- 
 ers through Wieland's translations. His popu- 
 larity was immense. He was decorated by Na- 
 poleon, knighted by Alexander of Russia, and was 
 a close friend of Goethe and Schiller. 
 
 Johann Christoph Schiller. — This last name is 
 the greatest in Suabia's annals. Johann Christoph 
 Schiller was born in 1759, at Marbach. His 
 early life was restricted and repressed. Destined 
 by his parents for the ministry, he was oflered by 
 the Duke of Wiirtemberg a place in the Karl- 
 schule which they did not dare refuse, although 
 the personal restraint and pedagogical narrow- 
 ness of this institution were exceedingly irksome 
 and vexatious. He then studied medicine, but 
 soon after graduation gave voice to the restless- 
 ness in his own heart and that of the times by the 
 publication of The Robbers, which, while ex- 
 travagant, yet expressed with great truth and 
 force the reactionary sentiments which were a 
 product of the repressive social order of that era. 
 This was received with great enthusiasm in Ger- 
 many and translated into many languages, but 
 offended the Duke of Wiirtemberg, who arrested 
 the author for a fortnight and forbade him 
 ^'henceforth and forever to compose comedies or 
 anything of that sort." Mindful of the fate of 
 Schubart, the youthful author slipped out of the 
 gates of Stuttgart, and fled to Mannheim, and 
 his after life was passed at Jena, where he held 
 a philosophical professorship, and at Weimar, at 
 
94 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 the hospitable court of the enlightened Duke Karl 
 August, who honored him with a title. 
 
 Schiller's most important dramas are The Rob- 
 bers, Wallensteitij Maria Stuart, The Maid of 
 Orleans, The Bride of Messina, and William 
 Tell. His principal historical works are The 
 Revolt of the Netherlands and The Thirty Years 
 War; and in poetry The Walk and The Song of 
 the BelL He was possessed of a most beautiful 
 creative fancy and wrote with great truth and 
 moral earnestness. His characters do not so 
 much stand out as individual beings as they are 
 expressions of ideas — political, civil, moral — so 
 that through them we can see the soul of the 
 author. Poetry was his chosen medium of ex- 
 pression; through it he could best express his 
 strong sentiments on the subjects of the dignity 
 of humanity and personal freedom, and it is in 
 his lyrics and ballads that his inner self is most 
 completely revealed. Franke quotes a verse from 
 his poem of The Artists: 
 
 "Borne on your daring pinions soar sublime, 
 Above the shoal and eddy of the time, 
 Far glimmering on your wizard mirror see. 
 The silent shadow of the age to be;" 
 
 and says that in it 'Ve have an epitome of all the 
 best and highest which Schiller's life, so prema- 
 turely and abruptly to be ended, has given to the 
 world." 
 
 He died at the age of forty-five. May 9, 1805, 
 and his memory is revered greatly by the German 
 people. On the ninetieth birthday of the poet a 
 Suabian Schiller Society was formed for the pur- 
 pose of creating a Schiller Museum in Marbach 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 95 
 
 and otherwise honoring his memory. Wiirtem- 
 berg celebrated the centenary of his birth by a na- 
 tional festival, and on May 9, 1905, the one hun- 
 dredth anniversary of his death w^as observed by 
 all the German Societies at home and abroad. 
 
 The Poet XJhland. — Johann Ludv^ig Uhland 
 was one of the sweetest of Germany's lyric poets. 
 In popularity he ranks next to Schiller. Uhland 
 was born in Tubingen in 1787, and studied law 
 at the University there. His verse — 
 
 "I toiled at law with effort strong 
 Against the promptings of my heart, 
 And from the clasp of charming song 
 Had torn myself but half apart" — 
 
 shows "his inward struggle between the study of 
 the law which he loved so little and the charm of 
 poetry which he loved so much." He, however, 
 pursued his study, being convinced that every 
 man, poet or not, should have a serious occupa- 
 tion in life. He took an active part, also, in pub- 
 lic affairs, which led to a remonstrance from 
 Goethe that there were plenty of men in Suabia 
 capable of serving the state, but there was only 
 one such poet as Uhland. 
 
 He was eminently a ballad writer, treating 
 simple subjects with sympathy, cheerfulness and a 
 tender love of Nature, and renewing the charm 
 and simple grace of The Volklied in Germany 
 literature. In his drama Ernst' von Schwaben, 
 he recalls the spirit and times of the earlier min- 
 strels he so much loved. Uhland wrote 350 
 poems, fully half of them masterpieces. From 
 1 8 14 to the present time not a year has passed in 
 Germany without a new edition of his poems. His 
 
96 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 life was spent quietly in his home in Tubingen. 
 One of his countrymen said of him that he was '*a 
 genuine nightingale, to be heard, not seen." Uh- 
 land was a devoted lover of his Fatherland, and in 
 public life stood out bravely for popular rights, 
 civil equality and intellectual freedom. Among 
 his numerous followers are some gifted poets, who 
 constitute what has been called the Suablan school 
 of poetry. He died in 1862. 
 
 The Novelist Hauff. — Very popular among his 
 countrymen is the novelist, William Hauff, born 
 in Stuttgart in 1802. The period of his literary 
 work was composed within the short space of 
 two years, and his early death at the age of twen- 
 ty-five (1827) was a serious loss to Suablan lit- 
 erature. In 1826 his first volume. The Marchen 
 Almanack — a collection of fairy tales, which he 
 used to relate to pupils during his tutorship — was 
 published. They were original and written with 
 a delicious humor and an elegance of style not 
 customary in such productions. Their success was 
 immediate, and his fame as a narrator was there- 
 after established. His novel Lichtenstein, in- 
 spired by the historical tales of Sir Walter Scott, 
 illustrates the most interesting period of Wiir- 
 temberg's history. It is the first distinctly his- 
 torical romance In Suablan literature, although 
 the alleged facts are purely imaginative. 
 
 Kerner and von Scheffel. — Justinius Kerner, 
 born in 1786 in Ludwigsburg, was the author of 
 many extremely popular poems. In prose his hu- 
 morous and sympathetic Picture Book out of my 
 Childhood is the best. 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 97 
 
 Another favorite Suabian writer was Joseph 
 Victor von Scheffel (1826- 1886), a native of 
 Karlsruhe. Scheffel was another example of the 
 difficulty of at once recognizing his right vocation. 
 He studied law and practised six years at Sak- 
 kingen; then went to Rome to fulfil a cherished 
 desire to become a painter, only to find that he 
 had mistaken his genius. He retired to Capri, 
 overcome with despondency, and it was there that, 
 seeking to overcome his disappointment, he com- 
 posed that romantic, humorously melancholy 
 poem, Der Trompeter von Sakkingen, which was 
 to establish his fame. Returning to Germany he 
 began his romance, Ekkehard, These two works 
 had a success unequalled before in the history of 
 German literature. DerTrompeter has been called 
 the most popular German epic of the century, 
 Ekkehard is a blending of history and poetry, a 
 vivid and picturesque picture of the life of the 
 Tenth Century in Suabia. In 1895 Der Trom- 
 peter had reached its 216th edition, and Ekkehard 
 its 143rd. In high spirits over his success he 
 wrote the rollicking student songs of the collec- 
 tion Gaudeamus, appropriated by the youth of 
 the universities. His fiftieth birthday was cele- 
 brated all over Germany, and the Grand Duke of 
 Baden conferred on him a title of hereditary no- 
 bility. The later years of his life were saddened 
 by melancholy. 
 
 Schwab, Schelling and Hegel. — Gustav 
 Schwab ( 1 791-1850) was a poet and prose 
 writer, who endeared himself to his compatriots 
 by his JVandermgs through Suabia, collections of 
 
98 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 German volksbooks and tales of ancient times. 
 Among the more modern popular poets and writ- 
 ers of Wiirtemberg are Karl Gerok, Edward 
 Morike, Albert Knapp, F. T. Vischer, J. G. 
 Fisher and Ottilie Wildermuth. 
 
 In philosophy Wiirtemberg is well represented 
 by Frederick William Joseph von Schelling 
 (1775-1854) and George William Frederick 
 Hegel (1770- 1 831). The former was born at 
 Leonberg and studied at Tiibingen. In 1798 he 
 was called to be professor at Jena, then to Wurz- 
 burg, later Xp Munich and finally to Berlin. At 
 first a disciple of Kant and Fichte, he adopted, 
 successively, the standpoints of Bruno, Spinoza, 
 Baader and Boehme. Schelling's writings pos- 
 sess a power of arousing original thought. Some 
 one says that "they reveal the morning red of 
 truth and the student becomes a mystic and be- 
 holds the truth for himself.*^ 
 
 Hegel was born in Stuttgart. While at the Uni- 
 versity of Tubingen his intellect was aroused by 
 contact with Schilling, whose friend and disciple 
 he avowed himself for some years to come. He- 
 gel's system of philosophy has been called that 
 of the Absolute Idea. To think and to be was 
 the same. ''He conceived," says Franke, *'the hu- 
 man mind to be the highest form of the Divine 
 spirit accessible to our understanding, and that 
 man's consciousness of God was self-conscious- 
 ness." He believed that the highest freedom was 
 the service of the state, and rose to great po- 
 litical influence through his public services. 
 
 Johann Christian Frederick Holderlin (1770- 
 
IN SUABIA-LAND 99 
 
 1843) was born at Lauffen and educated at Tu- 
 bingen with Hegel and Schelling. He pos- 
 sessed rare poetic gifts, but with eccentric ten- 
 dencies. His romance Hyperion is epistolary in 
 form and classic in style. Some of his lyrics are 
 very beautiful. In 1803 his mind failed. 
 
 Conclusion. — Lord Bacon has said that "he 
 that traveleth into a country before he hath some 
 entrance into the language goeth to school and 
 not to travel." A scanty English is spoken 
 throughout Germany, while there is always the 
 lesser obstacle of the different dialects to over- 
 come. For fullest enjoyment, however, the trav- 
 eler in Wiirtemberg should not only speak the 
 language, but be familiar with the popular native 
 literature. This is a great help in establishing 
 comradeship with the many enthusiasts one meets 
 on the Suabian hills, from whose hearts and 
 tongues come so readily the tales and ballads of 
 their beloved poets. Happy is he who has made 
 previous acquaintance with Lichtenstein and the 
 MarcheUj with Ekkehard and Der Trompeter 
 vor Sakkingen, and the songs of Gandeamus. 
 Many of the ballads have "a local habitation and 
 a name," and a volume of Uhland's poems is a 
 handy addition to the traveler's knapsack. Thus 
 is one best fitted to thoroughly enjoy the sim- 
 plicity and happy spirit of this romantic, cheerful 
 and beautiful Suabian land. 
 
lOO 
 
 IN SUABIA-LAND 
 
 INDEX TO CONTENTS. 
 
 Achalm, 66, 70, 72 
 
 Agriculture, 33, 58 
 
 Alamanni, n 
 
 Architecture, 87 
 
 Bad Boll, 74 
 
 Baden-Baden, 83-85 
 
 Baur, Frederick C, 68 
 
 Bebenhausen, 68, 87 
 
 Betzingen, 72 
 
 Black Forest, 8, 52, 74, 85 
 
 Caf^s. country, 59 
 
 Cannstadt, 65 
 
 Christmas, 49 
 
 Conrad, 21 
 
 Conradin, 22 
 
 Constance, Lake, 8, 83 
 
 Costumes, 51 
 
 Dannecker, 63 
 
 Dofiinger, 24 
 
 Easter, 50 
 
 Eberhard im Bart, 12, 33, 65, 
 
 67 
 Esslingen, 63 
 festivals, 48 
 
 Frederick Barbarossa, 18, 36 
 Frederick II., 21 
 Frischlin, 81 
 Funerals, 45 
 Ghibbeline, 17 
 Gonzaga, Barbara, 25 
 Goppingen, 74 
 Gravenitz, Countess, 29 
 Guelph, 17 
 Hasenberg, 66 
 Hauff , William, 27, 28, 55, 70, 
 
 71, 96 
 Hegel, George W. H., 98 
 Heilbronn, 13, 74 
 Hohenasperg, 74 
 Hohenneuffen, 66, 80 
 Hehenstauffen, House of, 16; 
 
 peak, 76; siege of, 77 
 Hohentwiel, 83 
 Hohen Urach, 81 
 HohenzoUern, 8, 66, 82 
 Holderlin, Johann C. F., 98 
 Holidays, 48 
 Honau, 69, 70 
 Karl, King, 28, 30 
 
 Kepler, 91 
 Kerner, 26, 33, 96 
 Kircheim, 83 
 Lauffen, 73 
 Lichtenstein, 69 
 Lorch, 74 
 Magyars, 14 
 Manfred, 22 
 Maulbronn, 74, 87 
 Meistersingers, 90 
 Merseburg, 14 
 Meurad, 12 
 Minnesingers, 88 
 Murrhardt, 72 
 Nebelhohle, 69, 71 
 Neckar, 5, n, 62, 64, 80 
 Niebelungen Lied, 89 
 Preszburg, 30 
 Regiswindis, 12, 73 
 Religion, 42 
 RemSj 27 
 
 Reutlingen, 27, 70, 72, 87 
 Romans, 10 
 Rothenberg, 5, 62 
 Rottenburg, 11 
 Scheflfel, von, 97 
 Schiffauer, 87 
 Schiller, 65, 93 
 Schelling, von, 97 
 Schubart, 92 
 Schwab, Gustav, 97 
 Stuttgart, 6, 65 
 Titles, 55 
 Tiibingen, 25,67 
 Uhland, 95 
 Ulm, 14, 84 
 
 Ulrich, Duke, 26, 67, 70, 71 
 Urach, 25 
 Vineyards, 60 
 Vogelweide, 20, 79 
 Weddings, 45 
 Weinsburg, 18 
 Wiederhold, 83 
 Wieland, 92 
 Wildbad, 74 
 William I., 30, 50, 6a, 65 
 William II., 31 
 Wiirtemberg, House of, as 
 Zeithblom, 86 
 
 NOTE.— The translations of Uhland's verses on pages 4 
 and 32 were made for this volume by Mrs. Adolph Spaeth. 
 
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