-^*\.,^ ( Interior of King's College Chapel. From an Etching; hy H. Tousstiiiit- CAMBRIDGE IBtizt I^istorical anD Descriptitie Il5ote0 BY J. W. CLARK, M.A. Regist'ar of Cambridge Uni-versity FIFTH EDITION LONDON SKELEY AND CO., LIMITED 38 Grkat Russell Street 1902 s..?n=--^^ CONTENTS I. PAGE The Medieval Town . . . . . . i II. The Story of Peter house. The Market Hill 34 III. Great St. Mary's Church. Clare Hall. Pem- broke College ...... 67 IV. 1"hl ]v\rly History of Trinity College . . 94 V. J'he Further History of Trinity College . 117 VI. King's College ....... 142 vi Contents. VII. PAGE King's College {continued) . , . .162 VIII. St. John's College. Christ's College . .187 IX. College of St. Mary Magdalene. College and University Libraries . . .210 X. GONVILLE AND CaIUS CoLLEGE. QuEENS' COLLEGE. Emmanuel College . . . . .229 XI. Jesus College 260 XII. Social Tjfe at Cambridge " 'Tis Sixty Years Since" 282 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Interior of King's College Chapel . Frontispiece Gati.-house of Cambridge Castle, from a View TAKEN IN 1773 . . .... Page 15 The Round Church ; or Church of the Holy Sepulchre 21 Inti;rior of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre 25 Corpus Christi College and the Tower of St. Benet's 29 Peterhouse : Exterior of the South Side of the Principal Court 37 The Old Conduit 47 Market Hill ; with the New Conduit and St. Church 51 (}ate of Entrance, Clare College, as seen from THE Interior of the Court . . . -87 Oriel Window of the Lodge, Pembroke College, now desiroyed, from the garden . . . qi The (]reat Court of Trinity College ... 99 The Great Gate of Trinity College . . . 103 Neyilf:'s Court at Trinity CoLLEfjE . . .115 The Cam near Trinity College, with ihf. Tower OF St. John's Chapel . . . . .119 Vlll List of Illustrations. South Porch of King's College Chapel King's College Chapel, from beyond the River St. John's College .... Gate of Entrance, St. John's College . Gateway in ihe Third Court of St. John's The Gari)i;n of Christ's College Pepvsian Library, Magdalene College . Trinity Hall Library Carvings in Trinity College Library . Gate of Virtue at Caius College . North Side of the Gate of Honour, Caius College , , .... ]>ridge of Queens' College, looking North The Lodge of Queens' College Chapel and Cloister of Emmanuel College, from the Garden The Senate House and University Library East End of Jesus College Chapel, from New Court (iATE of Entrance to Jesus College Outer Court of Jesus College, looking to the South-west Corner .... The Old ]5ridge of St. John's College , Gallery in the President's Lodge at Queens College . , , , PAGE 149 189 201 213 219 239 245 249 253 271 275 279 293 313 CAMBRIDGE. The Medieval "Town. WHEN an antiquary examines a Cathedral which at first sight appears to present uniformity of design, he not unfrequently finds that the choir is of one period, the nave of another, the transepts of a third ; all having been built long subsequently to the foundation of the primi- tive church, whose walls and piers must be disin- terred from underneath the statelier additions of more recent times. Those who would trace the history of one of our populous towns are obliged to pursue much the same process. The fortifica- tions have been pulled down long ago ; half the churches have served as quarries out of which the other half have been built ; and though an old name of a street may here or there survive, the primitive town is hidden away under the modern 2 2 Cambridge. one as completely as is a hermit's cell beneath the Cathedral raised to commemorate his saintly life. A University town, however, though it has out- grown its ancient limits, and been modernised in diverse ways, is less subject to change than almost any other. The colleges guard their territories with jealous care ; they allow of no encroachment ; they alienate no portion of the sacred soil, except on rare occasions to some other College, or to the University, for University purposes ; and, more- over, they gradually acquire so much property in the town, that they can regulate, in some degree, the extent and direction of its development. Thus, though the colleges of Cambridge have been a good deal altered and enlarged since their first foundation, and even since 1690, as is proved by comparing the existing structures with David Loggan's engravings, taken shortly before that year though some have even been entirely re- built ; yet the ancient landmarks have not been obliterated. Time has dealt gently with them on the whole ; revolution, notwithstanding all that has been said to the contrary, has hardly done them severer injury than the destruction of a Virgin's head, or the defacement of a royal scutcheon ; nay, even in regard of ordinary accidents, they have been singularly fortunate. In the words of Fuller : The Fen- land. 3 "Whosoever shall consider in both Universities the ill contrivance of many chimnies, hollowness of hearths, shallowness of tunnels, carelessness of coals and candles, catchingness of papers, narrowness of studies, late reading and long watching of scholars, cannot but conclude that an especial providence prcservcth those places. How small a matter hath sometimes made a partition betwixt the fire and the fuel ? Thus an hair's breadth, fixed by a divine finger, shall prove as effectual a separation from danger as a mile's distance. And although both Universities have had sad accidents in this kind, yet neither in number or nature (since the Reformation) so destructive as in other places : so that, blessed be God, they have been rather scare-fires than hurt-fires unto them." If, however, the town of Cambridge has been, on the whole, but little altered by comparison with other places that have increased with equal rapidity, a more thorough change has been wrought in the neighbourhood in the last fifty years than in most other parts of England in five hundred. On the one hand, the open country has been enclosed ; on the other, the Fen-land has been drained. Let us try to imagine the con- dition of this latter district in the Middle Age, when Cambridge was a frontier fortress on the edge of the great wild that then stretched away towards the north-east as far as the Wash. It was crossed by only one great Roman Way, the Akeman Street, which led from Cambridge to Brancastcr ; and even this carefully avoided the 4 Cambridge. low grounds, passing from island to island with such skill in engineering that not more than nine miles of ^^w had to be traversed between Cam- bridge and the high ground of Norfolk. Right and left of this causeway stretched a sea of peat- moss, all but impassable except to those who were in the secret of its fords and by-ways, traversed by sluggish rivers, and dotted here and there with green islands, chief of which was the central eminence of Ely Isle, the holy hill of Etheldreda, the Camp of Refuge to which the Saxons fled when they made their last determined resistance to the Norman invaders. Notwithstanding all its drawbacks the agues and fevers that racked the inhabitants, the outlaws who plundered them, and the Danish invaders who could easily ascend the rivers, and burn and murder after their manner the Fen-land must have had a beauty and interest of its own, such as is always to be found where Nature is left undisturbed, and bird, and beast, and insect multiply without the interference of man. It is all gone now. Two thousand square miles of the finest corn-land in England have replaced mere and reed-bed ; the amphibious population of the fen " yellow-bellies," as their neighbours of terra firma contemptuously styled them have beconie opulent and portly farmers, so portly indeed that a big hole in a dyke, The Pen- land. 5 through which the water was pouring iti a storm, defying all efforts to restrain it, is said to have been effectually stopped by the simple expedient of the farmer sitting down in it ; and the soil that it was once thought impossible, if not im- pious, to drain, has now become so dry that in a certain hot summer a few years ago water had to be pumped into the Fen instead of out of it. Here and there, as in Wicken Fen, a few acres of primeval wilderness survive to give us some idea of what the rest once was. The ground where the marsh-fern still flourishes is sodden with black, unwholesome water ; the sedge and the reeds are breast-high ; and in summer-time the great swallow-tailed butterflies float lazily about as they did of old. However, as Kingsley said in his beautiful rhapsody on the Fens : " Wc shall have wheat and mutton instead, and no more typhus and ague ; and, it is to be hoped, no more brandy- drinking and opium-eating; and children will live and not die. For it was a hard place to live in, the old Fen, a place where one heard ot ' unexampled instances of longevity,' for the same reason that one hears of them in savage tribes, that few lived to old age at all, save those iron constitutions which nothing could break down." No doubt the Fen was a hard taskmaster, and some of those who dwelt in it were not gentle either, for chains aiid collars to harness captives, 6 Cambridge. and chains wherewith slaves were yoked as they worked, have been found in it ; yet it had a bright side as well as a gloomy one, and parts of it were a very paradise of fertility. Here is a picture of the Isle of Ely, from the Liber Elieusis, as it appeared in the eleventh century. The speaker is a French knight who has been taken prisoner by Hereward, and having been hos- pitably entertained by him, returns to William's camp and describes what he had seen : " In our Isle men arc not troubling themselves about the siege ; the ploughman has not taken his hand from the plough, nor has the hunter cast aside his arrow, nor does the fowler desist from beguiling birds. If you care to hear what I have heard and seen with my own eyes, I will reveal all to you. The Isle is within itself plenteously endowed ; it is supplied with various kinds of herbage ; and in richness of soil surpasses the rest of England. Most delightful for charming fields and pastures, it is also re- markable for beasts of chase ; and is, in no ordinary way, fertile in flocks and herds. Its woods and vineyards arc not worthy of equal praise ; but it is begirt by great meres and fens as though by a strong wall. In this Isle there is an abundance of domestic cattle, and a multitude of wild animals J stags, roes, goats, and hares, are found in its groves and by those fens. Moreover, there is a fair sufKcicncy of otters, weasels, and polecats ; which in a liard winter are caught by traps, snares, or by any other device. But what am I to say of the kinds of fishes and of fowls, both those that fly and those that swim : In the eddies at the sluices of these meres are netted innumerable eels, large water- wolves, with pickerels, perches, roaches, burbots, and lam- The Fen-land. 7 preys, which we call water-snakes. It is, indeed, said by many that sometimes salmon arc taken there, together with the royal fish, the sturgeon. As tor the birds that abide there and thereabouts, if you are not tired of listening to me, I will tell you about them, as I have told you about the rest. There you find geese, teal, coots, didappers, water-crows, herons, and ducks, more than man can number, especially in winter or at moulting time. I have seen a hundred nay, even three hundred taken at once ; sometimes by bird-lime, sometimes in nets or snares." This vast prodigality of life has perished with the morasses and the meres that sheltered it, and year by year, as drainage becomes more extensive and more thorough, the Cambridge market is more scantily furnished from the Fen. The stag, the roe, and the goat have been long extinct, and their existence is only revealed to us by the abundance of their bones that are found in the all-preserving peat. Many another animal is proved by the same evidence to liave once existed in the Fen, or near it ; the gigantic aurochs, which, on the Continent, survived till the Lombard inva- sion of Italv ; the smaller short-horned ox ; the wild cat, marten, badger, otter, bear ; and last, but not least, beaver, in sufficient abundance to show that there must have been numerous colonies of them there. I'he drainage of Whittlesea Mere, completed in 1850., destroyed the last home of one of the most remarkable of British insects, 8 Cambridge. the great copper butterfly; "^nd of many birds also. Snipe are said to breed no longer in the Fen; while ruffs and reeves, godwits, spoonbills, bitterns, and herons, are almost as much creatures of the past as the pelican, whose former existence is proved by a couple of his wingbones preserved in the Cambridge University Museum. On the western edge of the Fen-land, where the higher ground terminates on the left bank of the Cam in an eminence of considerable height, stood the Roman station of Camboritum. This com- manding position had already been taken possession of by an earlier race, as is shown by the lofty mound called Castle Hill, probably a British earth-work. This was included within the pre- cincts of the Roman fortifications, traces of which can still be recognised. They measured about 1,650 feet rom north to south, by 1,600 feet from east to west. At this point the Akeman Street left the Fen, and was crossed, almost at right angles, by a second Roman Way, the Via Devana, which ran from Colchester to Chester. The situation of Camboritum, at the junction of two such important roads, probably saved it from the destruction which overtook so many Roman towns in the havoc of the English conquest, and caused it to be at once occupied by the con- queror. It is not to Cambridge, therefore, but Camboritum. 9 to some other Roman station that Bede refers, when he relates how Sexburga, sister of Ethel- dreda, foundress of Ely, sent to seek a marble sarcophagus fit to contain the saint's remains. " The brethren whom she sent," says the his- torian, " took ship and came to a certain ruined town at no great distance, which in the English tongue is called Grantacasstir ; there presently they found, hard by the walls, a white marble coffin, exquisitely wrought, with a lid of the same material." This description does not suit Cam- bridge, where few Roman remains have been discovered ; but, on the other hand, it suits Grantchester exceedingly well, a village about three miles higher up the stream, where there is a well-marked Roman encampment, and where there was evidently an extensive cemetery, for many ancient coffins may still be seen, built into the walls of the church and churchyard. This town was apparently early deserted in favour of Camboritum, which, for the reasons mentioned above, was the more convenient and important station. Camboritum stood nearly opposite to the northernmost limit of a considerable bend of the river, which is crossed by a bridge at the bottom of the hill commanded by the camp or castle. As there is evidence that the road which 10 Cambridge. passes over this bridge is the southward extension of the Via Deva^m, it is almost certain that the river has always been crossed at the same place. In ancient times fords were used instead of bridges, and, in fact, in the middle of the last century, when the bridge was being repaired, traces of a ford were found in this place. It may therefore be suggested that Camboritum signifies " the ford [ritum) at the bend," a name derived from the position of the high ground, which effectually commanded the passage of the river. In the Middle Ages the name Camboritum seems to have been either unknown or forgotten ; Grantebrigge or Cantebrigge is the only name in use, while the river, if a name more distinct than "the running water" is used for it, is called le Ee^ or le Rhee, a name which is still applied to the upper part of its course. The name Granta reappears on Saxton's map of Cambridgeshire (1576) ; and in Spenser's "Faery yueene " (i ^^90), under the form Guanl : " Next these the plenteous Ouse came far from land, By many a city and by many a townc, And many rivers taking under-hand Into his waters, as he passeth downc, (The Clc, the Were, the Guant, the Sture, the Rowne) Thence doth by Huntingdon and Cambridge flit; The River Cam. 1 1 My mother, Cambridge, whom, as with a crowne, He doth adorne, and is adorn'd of it With many a gentle muse and many a learned wit." Camden, writing In 1586, recognises the Cam as well as the Granta : " By what name writers termed this River, It Is a question : some call It Grantdy others Camus." On Speed's map of Cambridgeshire (1610) the name Cam occurs alone, written twice, once above, and once below, Cambridge ; Milton personifies It as a river-god in " Lycldas" (1638) : " Next Camus, reverend sire, went footing slow, His mantle hairy and his bonnet sedge, Inwrought with figures dim, and on the edge Like to that sanguine flower inscribed with woe ;" and on Loggan's map of Cambridge (1688) the words T/ie River Cam are written out in full, without any other designation. On the other hand, so late as 1702, an Act of Parliament for Improving the navigation speaks of the River Cham^ alias the Grant. The usefulness of this stream to the Inhabitants of Cambridge whatever name they gave to it was very great. Until the beginning of the seventeenth century It supplied them, to a great extent, with water for household use ; and until the construction of railways it was the principal 1 2 Cambridge. highway along which provender of all sorts, fuel, and heavy goods, were brought to the town. This explains the ill-feeling excited at different times as the colleges gradually acquired and closed up the lanes leading to it. We quote a graphic description of the advantages derived from the river which appears in a work called Cantabrigia Depicta^ published in 1763. The name, it will be observed, is still The Grant. " The Air of Cafnbridge is very healthful, and the Town plentifully supplied with excellent Water, not only from the River and Aqueduct already mentioned, but from the nume- rous Springs on every Side of it ; some of them medicinal. Nor is it better supplied with Water, than it is with other Necessaries of Life. The purest Wine they receive by the Way of Lynn: Flesh, Fish, Wild-fowl, Poultry, Butter, Cheese, and all Manner of Provisions, from the adjacent Country : Firing is cheap ; Coals from Seven-pence to Nine-pence a Bushel ; Turf, or rather Peat, four Shillings a Thousand ; Sedge, with which the Bakers heat their Ovens, four Shillings per hundred Sheaves : These, to- gether with Osiers, Reeds and Rushes used in several Trades, are daily imported by the River Grant. Great Ouantitics of Oil, made of Flax-Secd, Colc-Seed, Hemp and other Seeds, ground or pressed by the numerous Mills in the Isle of Ely, are brought up this River also; and the Cakes, after the Oil is pressed out, aftbrd the Farmer an excellent Manure to improve his Grounds, By the River also they receive 1500 or 2000 Firkins of Butter every Week, from 'Norfolk and the Isle of Ely, which is sent by Waggons to London: Besides which, great quantities are made in the neighbouring Villages, for the Use of the University and J' he Castle. 13 Town, and brought fresh to Market every Day, except Mondav. Everv Pound of this Butter is rolled, and drawn out to a Yard in Length, about the Bigness of a Walking- Cane ; which is mentioned as peculiar to this Place. The Fields near Cambridge furnish the Town with the best Saftron in Europe, which sells usually from 24 to 30 Shillings a Pound." On the site of Roman Camboritum William the Conqueror founded Cambridge Castle in 1068, on his return from the conquest of York ; and in the following year he took up his abode there while conducting the operations against Ely, where Here ward was commanding in person. At this time the town of Cambridge must have been almost entirely confined to the district round the Castle, still popularly called the Burgh or Borough ; and before William came, it evidently occupied the site of the Roman station, for twenty-seven houses are said to have been destroyed by him to make way for the Castle. The fortifications were confined to the high ground, for it was clearly needless to guard even the passage of the river below. Danger was to be expected from the fen in front, not from the arable land behind, or from the open grass-covered Gogmagog Hills to the south-east, whence the great dyke, called " Devil's Dyke," stretched down to the river by Reche, at the entrance to Burwell Fen, a sure defence from assailants in that direction. The 14 Cambridge. further history of the Castle is singularly unevent- ful. No deeds of arms are recorded in connection with it ; it was never taken, nor, so far as we know, ever defended. In the first quarter of the fourteenth century part of it became a prison, and the rest was gradually pulled down. Edward the Third built his college of King's Hall with some of the materials ; Henry the Fifth granted stone and timbers out of it for the erection of the chapel of the same ; and in 1441 Henry the Sixth allowed the provost and scholars of King's College to make similar use of the hall and a chamber adjoining, then unroofed and ruinous. Notwithstanding these grants, the Keep is alluded to as still standing in 1553 ; and in 1642, when the E.arl of Manchester held Cambridge for the Parliament, it appears to have been easily put into an efficient state of defence, with the help of materials seized from Clare Hall, the rebuilding of which had been begun shortly before. We read of breastworks, and bulwarks, and strong fortifications. These were again demolished at the restoration of peace ; but the Gate-house remained until 1842, but little altered from the appearance it presents in our woodcut, which is copied from a view taken in 1773. The County Courts and the Gaol now occupy the site. The Castle Hill, unoccupied by buildings, is the ^<^,\t\.l> C5j*. I ^ ^ <0 The Castle Hill. 17 occasional resort of sight-seers, for the sake of the fine view to bs obtained from it. It used to be a favourite joke to persuade " freshmen " to mount it, in the hope of " seeing the term divide," an operation which they were Jed to believe was attended by certain solemn portents when the Cambridge Calendar announced that " the term divides at midnight." At its first origin, then, the town of Cambridge was limited to a few houses round the Castle, and along the street leading to and from the ford at the foot of the Castle Hill. The ford, it must be remembered, must always have been of great importance, for it was the only point at which merchandise and cattle could pass the river on their way from the Eastern Counties to the Midlands. It is conceivable, therefore, that even without the Norman stronghold, and without the University, a town might have grown up at this spot. I'he orioin of the University cannot be defined. It did not spring into being in any particular year, or at the bidding of any particular founder ; it grew up gradually, as a voluntary association of teachers and taught, governed by enactments framed by the body itself, and sanctioned or repealed from time to time. It used to be asserted that it owed its origin to the two great Benedictine monasteries of the Fen-land, Croyland and Ely ; 3 1 8 Cambridge. and we know that monks from the latter house did resort to Cambridge for study at a very early date. But they would hardly have gone out into the wilderness to found an institution for which Croyland or Ely would have afforded an equally suitable site ; the fact that they came proves that schools must have been already in existence. More extended research in monastic archives may elicit further facts respecting the early connection of the great religious Orders with Oxford and Cambridge ; for the present w^e will be content with the fact that we owe to the convent of Ely the establish- ment of the collegiate system at Cambridge. Bishop Hugh de Balsham, who before his pro- motion had been sub-prior of the convent, and may have been a student in the schools of Cam- bridge, unquestionably founded Peterhouse in 1284. By the end of the thirteenth century the town of Cambridge had outgrown the narrow limits that were sufficient for it when the Castle was built, and had extended itself over the level ground on the opposite side of the river, to the right and left of the Roman road, the course of which is marked by the long straight street that runs through Cambridge from north to south, and is called Bridge Street, Sidney Street, and St. Andrew's Street, in different parts of its course. Foundation of Peterhouse. ig Nearest to the Castle, on the right of the street, stood the Hospital of St. John, founded, in all probability, by John Frost, a burgher of Cam- bridge, though subsequently the Bishops of Ely, as Baker, the historian of St. John's, says, " set up for founders and patrons " of it. Into this corporation of regular canons Hugh de Balsham introduced certain secular scholars, under the idea that they would become " one body and one college" [iinum corpus et unum collegium)^ and made due provision for their maintenance inde- pendently of the brethren. The intention was excellent, the result a failure. The two sets of occupants of the house quarrelled bitterly from the first, " the scholars being perhaps too wise, and the brethren possibly over-good," so that they had to be separated. The scholars were removed to the very opposite end of Cambridge, where lodging was found for them outside the town, in two hostels hard by a church then called St. Peter's, which they were permitted to use as their chapel. In order to give an idea of what Cam- bridge was at. this time, let us imagine one of these scholars, on his way from Ely to Cambridge, to ascend the Castle Hill, and let us try to realise the view spread out before him. The town was at that time rather like a pear in shape, of which the stalk would be represented 20 Cambridge. by the Bridge, a wooden structure of many arches. The west side was bounded by the river ; the east and south by the King's Ditch, constructed by Henry the Third for the defence of the town. It left the river just above Queens' College, and returned to it below the Great Bridge. The Roman Way ran close to the eastern limit of the town, at no great distance from the Ditch. About two hundred yards from the Bridge a second street branched off to the right, dividing the town into nearly equal divisions. This, the present Trump- ington Street, was then called High Street, or High Ward. At the point where it branched off, on the left of Bridge Street, stood one of the four circular churches in England, probably even then of considerable antiquity, called St. Sepulchre's. Round it clustered the Jewry, a quarter of con- siderable extent, for it stretched along the eastern side of High Street far enough to include All Saints' Church. Opposite to this church stood the Hospital of St. John, with extensive gardens and fish-ponds behind it. Beyond the Hospital, to the south, there was a dense network of narrow lanes, with here and there a garden, or a vineyard, or a wharf along the river bank, separating the compact masses of dwelling-houses which extended as far as the Carmelite Friary at the south-west angle of the town. Close to this the High Street 1^ '^ ^ ^ SJ ^ . ^^ ^ ^ -5; k K) r the promotion of science, philo- sophy, liberal a, :s, and theology," Henry VIII, founded Trinity College. It has been the good fortune of the House to have been, .represented at nearly all periods of its existence by men who have been impressed with the full significance of these weighty words. In consequence, the history of Trinity College has been, to a great extent, the history of the Univers'ty. Within its walls have originated the majority of those schemes for the promotion of a liberal education which have enabled Cambridge to keep a foremost place in science and literature; while the College itself, by encouraging among its members, a variety of studies, and thoroughness in each, has been saved from those ignoble and harrowing controversies into which less widely-cultured bodies are prone to fall, and so to fritter away their lives and waste their The Early History of Trinity College. 95 educational opportunities. Hence it is that the College can rehearse so grand a roll of names, names of men famous in theology, in science, in literature, in public life, such as no other College in either University can put forward; hence also the reassuring fact that up to the present time there has been no sign of degeneracy, no hint "That greatness hath no charter as ot yore, And men revolt from claims of sovereign lore, And the bold majesty of mental strife Hath lost its force in our distracted life ; And though the circles widen, fainter gleam All new emotions on the mirror-stream." The motives that animated Henry VIII. to establish this splendid foundation have not been recorded. There is a tradition that it was due to the suggestion of Dr. John Redman, one of his chaplains, who was the last Master of King's Hall, and became the first Master of Trinity College an appointment which shows that the King did not propose to destroy, but only to extend, the foundation of his predecessors ; but it seems more probable to account for it on the supposition that Henry desired to mark the age of that Reformation", to which he had himself so largely contributed, by some signal effort in the cause of education, on a grander scale and with larger endowments than the world had yet 96 Camh'idge. witnessed, so as to leave no cause for regretting the loss of the monasteries on the ground of the diminution of facilities for learning, which it had been part of their system to encourage. It is likely, too, that he may have wished to' leave behind him in Cambridge a more enduring fame than his predecessor, Henry VI,, was likely to acquire by King's College, or even than the Lady Margaret by her flourishing College of St. John's. That education in a far wider sense than was usual at that time was intended by him is clear from the full statement of his views in the preamble to the charter. After referring to the special reasons he had to be thankful to Almighty God for peace at home, for successful wars abroad, and, above all, for the introduction of the pure truth of Christianity into his kingdom, and the defence of it against the heresies and wicked abuses of the Papacy on the one hand and unbelief on the other, he sets forth his intention of founding a college " to the glory and honour of Almighty God, and of the Holy and Undivided Trinity, for increase and strengthening of Christianity, extir- pation of error, development and perpetuation of religion, cultivation of wholesome study in all departments of learning, knowledge of languages, education of youth in piety, virtue, self-restraint, and knowledge, charity towards the poor, and The Early History of Trinity College. 97 relief of the afflicted and distressed." Could any scheme for a liberal education have then been devised upon a wider, or less sectarian base than this, or one better able to maintain itself among changes of opinion and altered modes of thought? It is probable that the very general expressions of this carefully-worded charter saved the College in (^ueen Mary's reign ; for no personal feeling on her part in favour of her father's schemes could have protected an institution endowed mainly out of the suppressed monasteries, had the objects of its foundation been more narrow. As it was, so tar from suppressing it or despoiling it, she was enabled to increase its revenues by further endow- ments derived from the same sources. A description of the site on which the present stately quadrangles stand, and of the small collegiate institutions that occupied it insti- tutions so small that the microscope of archso- logical research has to put on a very high power indeed to discover the existence of some of them is full of instruction. Like the fliggot of sticks in the old fable, when united and amalgamated, their strength is unassailable ; but individually they were powerless for any good result, and would probably have fallen into irremediable ruin had not a strong hand bound them together. As a general rule, reform comes better from 8 98 Cambridge. within ; but there are occasions when it can only be effected by judicious interference from without. It is easy to imagine the clamour that must have been excited by Henry the Eighth's drastic measures. Unless academic nature was very different indeed in those days from what it is at present, there must have been much talk of vested rights and founders' wills ; but could those who first established the hostels and colleges that he absorbed now witness the result, it is difficult not to believe that they would applaud the strong- willed king whose sweeping policy abolished their well-meant but feeble establishments. When Henry VIII. founded Trinity College the ground was occupied by two colleges King's Hall and Michael House and several hostels. The names of seven at least of these have been preserved. They were not all in existence in 1548, having been in some instances absorbed by their neighbours ; but their position has been put beyond all doubt by recent researches. They were Gregory's Hostel, Crouched Hostel, Physwick Hostel, St. Margaret's Hostel, Tyled Hostel, Garret or St. Gerard's Hostel, and Ovyng's Inn. The main course of the River Cam wa,s the same then as now, but a branch of it ran from the end of Garret Hostel Lane to a point near the north end of ^.1 The Early History of Trinity College. loi the present Library, separating off an oval piece of common ground, called Garret Hostel Waste. Neither this waste, however, which is now the green in front of the Library, nor any of the ground occupied by the avenue and walks, was at that time the property of the College. Of the site on the right bank of the river, the northern half where the Great Gate, Chapel, Bowling Green, and Master's Lodge now stand was occupied by the buildings of King's Hall, and by a wharf called " Dame Nichol's Hythe," or " Cornhythe." A lane leading to this wharf started from a point in High Street close to the present Great Gate, thence crossed the Great Court diagonally, and so reached the river close to the junction of the above-mentioned stream with it. This lane was called the " King's Childer Lane," " King's Hall Lane," or simply " Road to Dame Nichol's Hythe." It was further used for the conduit- pipe which supplied the convent of the Franciscans, on whose site Sidney College was subsequently built, and which now supplies the Fountain in the middle of the Great Court of Trinity College, and the tap at the Great Gate, still so largely used by the neighbours. This latter supply is of great antiquity, for in the fourteenth century we find the occupier of the house close to it called William Atte-Conduit UNIVERSITY OF CAI Tt^OKNTA SANTA BARBARA COLLEGE LIBRARY I02 Cambridge. a combination with which we are more familiar in the names of Atwood and Atwater, The southern half of the site was subdivided into two nearly equal parts by a lane which ran from north to south. It started from the point in the present Trinity Lane where the " Queens' Gate " now stands, and ran northwards until it met the previously mentioned lane. According to Dr. Caius, it was called " le foule lane." At the time of the foundation of King's Hall it provided a more direct communication between Milne Street and Bridge Street than exists at present through Trinity Lane ; but when Dr. Caius wrote, the eastern half of King's Hall Lane had been absorbed by that college, and " le foule lane " was the only means of access to Dame Nichol's Hythe. The traffic through it was probably considerable ; whence the unsavoury designation by which it has become known to posterity. Lastly, the piece of ground between the south-western portion of the site and Garret Hostel Lane was occupied by the two hostels of Ovyng and Garret. Of the nine institutions above mentioned the oldest was Michael House, founded in 1324 by Hervey de Stanton, Chancellor of the Exchequer to Edward II. As was the case with most early colleges, the founder established his scholars, who were only seven in number at the beginning, in an The Great Gate of Trinity College. From a drawing by A Brunei Debahies. The Early History of Trinity College. 105 ordinary dwelling-house, which he had bought for a hundred marks from Roger de Buttetourte. Subsequently, as benefactions accrued to them, a hall, a kitchen, and ranges of chambers were con- structed, with a conspicuous gate of entrance from the highway, now called Trinity Lane, directly opposite to the end of Milne Street. The court could not have measured more than one hundred feet from east to west, by fifty feet from north to south ; yet room was found for a Master, eight Fellows, three Chaplains, and four Bible Clerks, besides undergraduates and servants. The hall was on the west side, and there is reason to believe that it was preserved until near the end of the eighteenth century, and that it is the building with a high roof, buttresses, and an oriel window, shown by Loggan in his view of Trinity College, at the south-west corner of the Great Court. The com- munity had no chapel of their own, but, down to the time of their absorption in Trinity College, continued to use the church of St. Michael for their devotions. Besides the dedication to St. Michael, the house was established in honour of the Holy and Undivided Trinity, St. Mary, and All Saints. It is therefore from this small estab- lishment that the name of Trinity College was in all probability derived. Physwick Hostel occupied the ground at the io6 Cambridge. corner of Foul Lane and Trinity Lane, opposite to Michael House. It derived its name from a Bedell of the University, William Physwick, who bequeathed it to Caius College, or, as it was then called, Gonville Hall, in 1393. In the middle of the following century it absorbed St. Margaret's Hostel, a smaller establishment adjoining it on the north. The entire extent of the ground thus occupied could not have measured more than two hundred feet by one hundred and fifty. This limited extent, however, did not prevent Physwick Hostel from acquiring considerable celebrity. It was managed in rather a different way from other hostels, as Dr. Caius has recorded with some minuteness in his history : "It was not let out to hire," he says, " as the others were, but remained the private property of Gonville Hall. It was a tiny college [piaillufn collegium) rather than a hostel, into which the superabundant youth of Caius College could over- flow as into a colony. It was administered by two Principals -the one exterior, the other interior who managed the finances, and direcfcd the studies of the inmates. The former was appointed by the Master of Caius College, the latter elected by the students themselves, who were between thirty and forty in number. It flourished and maintained its reputation for many years, educating many eminent and learned men, some of whom were summoned to fill honour- able positions in the parent college, others to hold offices of state." The curious arrangement which provided that The Early History of Trinity College. 107 the selection of one of the Principals should be made by those whom he was to instruct, is quite without parallel in university institutions. One would like to know something more about it ; what limitations, if any, were imposed upon their choice ; and whether the Head of Caius College was allowed a veto upon the regulations of the hostel, or made suggestions as to the course of study to be adopted there. Without some such control life might have been pleasant in Physwick Hostel, but could hardly have been profitable according to academic ideas. Of the other hostels whose position has not yet been mentioned, we know that St. Katharine's Hostel stood next to Physwick Hostel to the east ; that Tyled Hostel was in High Street (now Trinity Street) ; and that Crouched Hostel and Gregory's Hostel, which stood north of Michael House, were after vvards united under the latter name. All were probably small buildings, perhaps only single houses, let out to individuals for the accommodation of students. They are only worth mentioning as showing the number of these institutions that were once in existence, before the establishment of colleges rendered them unnecessary. The ancestor in direct line of Trinity College, and the most important, though not the most ancient, foundation, was King's Hall. In 13 i 7 we find King io8 Cambridge. Edward II. maintaining scholars at Cambridge, whom he addresses as "our dear clerks, John de Baggeshote and twelve other children of our chapel at the University of Cambridge ;" and in 1336 King Edward III. purchased for them a dwelling-house and garden of Robert de Croyland. His charter, dated 7th of October, 1337, mentions thirty-two scholars. The house, to be called the King's Hall of Scholars, or King's Hall, is described as " near the Hospital of St. John ; " and has been ascer- tained with tolerable certainty to have occupied a considerable part of the eastern half of the northern division of the site of Trinity College. It must have been of larger size than medieval houses in general, for it was capable, without alteration, of containing the scholars and their Master. The Master only had a room to himself ; from two to six scholars were lodged in each of the others. These scholars were probably sent to college at about the age when modern boys go to a public school ; and their position was not very different from that of boys on the foundation of Eton or Winchester. They were clothed and fed at the royal expense ; and the accounts that have come down to us, copies of which were sent by the Master to the King, record every detail of their expenditure. So minute are these accounts giving all the names of the inmates of the house, The Early History of Trinity College. 109 down to the cook's son, a lad called " petite Wille" that it would not be difficult, had we time and space enough^ to reproduce almost all the daily doings of the inmates : how they lived, what they ate, and what they drank. We may perhaps attempt this on some future occasion. It is usual to suppose that medieval living was coarse and rough ; but, at any rate, they had table-cloths and napkins in hall ; and their food was plentiful and varied. A few random extracts from one of these volumes (ranging from 1337 to 1351) are all that we have space for now. In the first place, we find yearly charges for the scholars' robes and furs (pro rohis et furruris), which it appears they had some- times considerable difficulty in procuring, for in 1342 special mention is made of an expenditure of nearly five pounds, " when suit was made for our gowns ; " and the refusal of some Fellows to contribute is noticed with no little acrimony. In this year there is a curious entry : " For knives and pen-cases and ink-horns given to our friends at court, I 8j-. 2<^." Knives were apparently con- sidered the most acceptable present for gaining a person's goodwill ; for hardly a year passes without a charge for them, with the names of those to whom they were given. The brewery and the stable are frequently mentioned, and great care was taken of the garden ; in each year we meet no Cambridge. with charges for seeds, usually parsley and garlic, and for work done to the vines. A piece of ground was specially set apart for their cultivation, and entries such as the following are frequent : " To one pruning the vineyard, id." The culture of vines was pretty general in Cambridge and the neighbourhood in the fourteenth century. There are references to it in most early college accounts ; and at Ely a certain sunny slope is called " the vineyard " to this day. There is, however, no hint that amateur -wine-making was ever attempted ; or that a college butler of those days ever com- mended his liquors with " The port, sir, I know is good, for I made it myself" On the contrary, there is ample evidence that red wine {vinum ruheum^ le claret) was imported yearly from abroad. At King's College the founder made hospitable provision for the supply of two casks of Gascony wine every year ; and a charge for making "ver- juice " from the college grapes shows that vinegar for salads was probably the only liquid they pro- duced. Numerous entries for poles and posts and frames for the vines point to their use in providing shady retreats from the summer sun. The study of a few of the early codes of college statutes, joined to that of such account-books as these, shows that every college was intended to contain within the precincts all that was necessary for the The Early History of Trinity College. 1 1 1 religion, the studies, and the recreation of the inmates, as in a modern public school. The most minute directions for the dress and deportment of the scholars are given in the statutes. A pre- cedent for this had been set by Walter de Merton at Oxford, who prescribes generally that his scholars are to be dressed decorously, to cultivate seemly behaviour, to be quiet in Hall and listen to a reader, or, if obliged to address each other, to speak Latin. These directions were elaborated in subsequent codes at Cambridge, Special vanities in dress are forbidden by name ; such as, red or green shoes, girdles enriched with gold or silver, rings on the fingers, swords and daggers, long hair or beards ; neither dogs, falcons, nor hawks might be kept, nor tournaments attended. At King's College no scholar might go beyond the gates unless accompanied by a Fellow, another scholar, or a servant. Latin is to be used at meals ; but at King's Hall French was permitted as an alter- native. The Bible, however, was to be read aloud during dinner, so that the cultivation of colloquial Latin could not have made much progress. Li contrast to this severity of discipline, the comfort and economical living of the students was every- where considered. Their bread was baked, and their beer brewed, within the College walls. Salt provisions were much used, and on fist-days salt 112 Cambridge. fish. This was bought in large quantities at Lynn Mart or Ely Fair, and stowed in the College storehouse till required. Their clothes were washed in the College laundry, and their chins shaved by the College barber. Exercise was pro- vided according to the extent of the grounds. A College with a large garden could find room fiDr archery. Of the sixteen older Colleges thirteen had bowling-greens, nine had tennis-courts, and eight had both. In the winter the performance of plays took place. These were usually the classical compositions of Plautus or Terence, but in later times an original comedy was occasionally per- mitted. It is time, however, to leave these domestic details, and return to the buildings. It was not long before the limits of Robert de Croyland's messuage proved too narrow for the community, and by the beginning of Richard the Second's reign we find them engaged in building operations. Colleges especially newly-founded ones do not build rapidly, and it was not until 1425 that the usual quadrangular area was com- pleted. This was a diminutive court about forty feet square, on the northern limit of the site, just behind the north-west corner of the present chapel. Small as it was, it contained all the necessary offices hall, oratory, parlour, kitchen, bakehouse and access to these different buildings was The Early History of Trinity College. 1 1 3 obtained from a cloister. In a few years the west side of the college was prolonged south- wards as far as the boundary lane, and returned along It eastwards. Opposite to " Foul Lane " a large gateway with four turrets was constructed, adorned with the royal arms, and a figure of a king, carved in stone and painted. This is the statue of King Edward III., Tertius Edwardus FAMA SUPER ^THERA NOTus, as the inscription records which gave its name to the gate, and which is still to be seen in a seventeenth-century niche adorning the mutilated remnants of the original structure. Up to the middle of Edward the Fourth's reign the parish churches of All Saints and St. Mary's had been used by the king's scholars for their devotions, but they then built a chapel private to themselves. There is reason to believe that it stood, in part, on the same ground as the existing chapel does, and some fragments of its walls are probably imbedded in the more modern ones. Lastly, at the begin- ning of the sixteenth century, an extension of the site towards the south having been at last effected, and the eastern half of the old " King's Hall Lane " closed, the foundation of the splendid gate of entrance was laid. It was not completed until 1535, and was the last work executed by the conmiunity of King's Hall before their dissolution. 9 114 Cambridge. When the union of the colleges, whose history and position we have thus briefly traced, had been brought about> the old thoroughfares were closed, and the new college found itself in possession of a number of buildings, scattered over the area of the Great Court, but not con- nected together by any unity of plan. The Society possessed, besides various buildings in which their members might be lodged, at least three halls, but only one chapel, of no great size, no con- venient master's lodge, and no regular ranges of chambers suitable for a community consisting, probably, of about three hundred persons. After executing a number of necessary repairs, they built a proper lodging for the Master. Next, the chapel was undertaken, which was begun in 1555, and completed, or at any rate the eastern portion of it, in 1564, as the date on the eastern gable shows. There is a tradition that the founder had himself intended to build a chapel in this position ; and it is unquestionable that (^ueen Mary and Queen Elizabeth both interested themselves in its pro- gress. We may console ourselves, therefore, when the beauty of the building is called in question, as it often is, by reflecting that the design may have been suggested by Henry VIII., and was certainly carried out by his daughters. V. The Further History of Trinity College. THE Great Court of Trinity College, of which we have already given an illustration, is the largest in either University, having an area of 90,180 square feet ; while that of Christ Church, Oxford, the next largest, with which it is natural to compare it, has an area of only 74,520 square feet. Nor is it in mere size that the Cambridge quadrangle is superior. The irregularity both of its dimensions and of the position of its buildings produces a more pleasing architectural effect than the formal correctness of Wolsey's design at Oxford. Though at first sight it appears to be completely regular, it is in reality exactly the reverse. The sides that are opposite to each other are not of the same length, none of the angles are right angles, and the fountain is not placed at the intersection of the diagonals. In criticising the two quadrangles, however, it must be remembered that that of Christ Church was 1 1 8 Cambridge. never completed by the founder, and has since been added to and altered in a very unsuitable manner ; while the success of the Great Court of Trinity is due to a fortunate accident rather than to a deliberate effort of genius on the part of the architect. The transformation of the Great Court is due entirely to the taste and energy of Dr. Thomas Nevile, who became Master in 1593. He, as Fuller quaintly puts it, " answering his anagram most heavenly, and practising his own allusive motto, ne vile velis," not only transformed the incongruous buildings into the stately order we admire at present, but erected, at his own charge, the additional court which still bears his name. He called to his aid an experienced architect, Ralph Symons, who had built Emmanuel College (1584-86), and who afterwards built Sidney Sussex College (1596-98), and the second court of St. John's College (i 598-1 602). Under his direction those portions of the older collegiate structures that could not be incorporated into a quadrangular arrangement were pulled down, and the eastern and western sides of the quadrangle, with the Queens' Gate in the latter, were erected. One portion alone of the older buildings was con- sidered either too beautiful, or too historically interesting, to be wholly swept away. The Gate 1 hi Cam ficar Tun ty College, ti-itli the loii,cr of St. John's Chapel. i'lOiH an Etching hy A. Briinet Debaiiics. The Further History of Trinity College. 121 of Edward III. was then standing at the end of a range of chambers projectuig into the area of the court at right angles to the chapel. It was obviously necessary to pull it down, but, in order to preserve at least the facade, it was erected afresh against the west end of the chapel, the west window of which was blocked to receive it. To Nevile we owe also the lovely fountain, erected in 1602, the Hall, erected in 1604, and the northern half of the Master's lodge, with the dining-room and large drawing-room over it. An additional storey was added to the great gate, with the statue of Henry VIII, on the exterior, and those of King James, his Queen, and Prince Charles, on the interior. Nevile must further be thanked for the acquisition of the ground on which the New Court now stands, and of the spacious gardens beyond the river, where the avenue of lime-trees was afterwards planted- the portion between the bridge and the road, in 1674, and that between the college and the bridge, in 1 7 16. The distant spire of the village church of Coton was formerly visible at the end of this delightful arcade of trees, framed in green foliage, whence the avenue used to be pointed to as a type of a College Fellowship being a long, but not unpleasant road, with a church at the end of it. But " the old order changeth, giving place 122 Cambridge. to new ; " and ecclesiastical rewards are no longer looked forward to as the natural close of a suc- cessful academic career. The Hall, the west side of which is well shown in the drawing which illustrates our last chapter, was copied, with certain alterations, from that of the Middle Temple. The same illustration exhibits the plan of Dr. Nevile's Court, which is a building of two floors, raised upon the arcades of a spacious and well-proportioned cloister. When first built, each side was subdivided by pilasters into compartments of four arches each. They were richly ornamented, and must have broken the uniformity of the wall in a very agreeable manner. Other and smaller pilasters divided the windows of the first floor. These latter were alternately solid, and pierced to receive the spouts which discharged the rainwater, not, as at present, into drains, but on to the floor of the court below. The second storey was finished off by a series of picturesque gables, one over each window. These details have been preserved to us in one of Loggan's admirable views, taken in or about 1688, without which their existence would never have been suspected. In 1755 the stone of which the walls were built had become decayed, and the whole structure was considered dangerous. Mr. Essex, a local The Further History of Trinity College. 123 architect, whose life was spent in destroying that which ought to have been preserved, was called in ; and under his direction the walls were se- curely built, the whole system of decoration was swept away, and the picturesque gables were re- placed by a balustrade of a heavy classical cha- racter, whose only merit is that it harmonises exceedingly Vv'ell with that of the Library on the west side of the Court. It should be mentioned that Nevile's Court was originally shorter by two compartments, or eight arcades, than it is at present. These were supplied by the munificence of Sir Thomas Sclater, Mr. Humphry Babington, and other benefactors, aided by the College funds, after the erection of the Library which was commenced by the exertions of Dr. Barrow, Master, in 1675. 'The architect was Sir Christopher Wren. A contemporary annalist records the following curious story respecting it : "They say that Dr. Barrow pressed the Heads of the University to build a Theatre, it being a Profanation and Scandal that the Speeches should be had in the University Church, and that also be deformed with Scaffolds and defiled with rude Crowds and Outcries. This Matter was fjrmally considered at a Council ot the Heads, and Arguments of Difiiculty and want of Supplies went strong against it. Dr. Barrow assured them that if they made a sorry Building, they might fail of Contributions ; but if they made it very magnificent and stately, and at least exceeding that at 124 Cambridge. Oxford, all Gentlemen of their Interest would generously contribute. But sage Caution prevailed, and the Matter, at that Time, was wholly laid aside. Dr. Barrow was piqued at this Pusillanimity, and declared that he would go straight to his College, and lay out the Foundations of a Building to enlarge his back-court, and close it with a stately Library, which should be more magnificent and costly than what he had proposed to them, and doubted not but, upon the Interest of his College, in a short Time to bring it to Perfection. And he was as good as his Word, for that very Afternoon, he, with his Gardiners and Servants, staked out the very Foundation upon which the Building now stands : and the admirable Disposition and Proportion on the Inside is such as touches the very Soul of any one who first sees it." A more noble repository for books it would be hard to find. The great architect fortunately condescended to design the book-cases, desks, seats, and other internal fittings ; so that the interior, as well as the exterior, bears the impress of his perfect taste and excellent judgment. The floor is paved with black and white marble, set in squares ; and ranged along the sides, against the cases, are marble busts of the chief worthies of the College, many due to the chisel of Roubiiiac, among which those of the naturalists, Ray and Willoughby, are pre-eminent for beauty of execu- tion. At the end furthest from the door, in the middle of the central space, is the statue of Lord Bvron by Thorwaldsen, originally intended for The Further History of Trinity College. 125 Westminster Abbey. It has been objected that Lord Byron is not the greatest name in literature that Trinity College could produce, and that therefore the place of honour in the library should not be assigned to him. When a sculptor can execute a finer statue of a greater man, it will be time to dethrone him. Meanwhile, let the work of art remain, a fitting companion to the busts that had been put there before it. The Great Court remained as Nevile left it until the Mastership of Dr. Richard Bentley ( 1 700-1 742), a period which has achieved an unfortunate notoriety for a series of the most extraordinary and bitter disputes between the Master and the Fellows. At the time of Bentley's appointment to this important office, he had just triumphantly routed a formidable array of wits and critics who had ventured to assert the genuineness of the Epistles of Phalaris. It was admitted by those best qualified to pronounce an opinion that Bentley's victory was crushing and complete ; nor does it now appear that he over- stepped the proper limits of literary controversy. At the time, however, his opponents did not know when they were beaten. An anonymous pamphleteer took refuge in abuse, and brought out "A Short Account of Dr. Bentley's Humanity and Justice to those Authors who have written 126 Cambridge. before him, &c., &c. ; " and another, Dr. Garth, affected to consider Bentley's adversary, Mr. Boyle, as the victor in the fray. In his poem, " The Dispensary," the following couplet occurs : "So diamonds take a lustre from their foil, And to a Bcntlcy 'tis we owe a Boyle." Bentley's once famous " Dissertation " has long since taken its place in the list of books that are much talked of but little read ; and he is better known in Cambridge by the undignified squabbles that disgraced his Mastership, or by the bitter lines of Pope, who, in the " Dunciad," makes him introduce himself to Dullness as " Thy mighty Scholiast, whose unwearied pains Made Horace dull and humbled Milton's strains ; Turn what they will to verse, their toil is vain, Critics like me shall make it prose again." It might have been expected that the Master- ship of such a college as Trinity would have been regarded by a man of his studious habits as a peaceful haven, where he might pursue his favourite occupations for the rest of his life without let or hindrance. The result, however, was exactly the reverse. From the very com- mencement of his tenure of office, he set himself in opposition to the Fellows ; and from that time The Further History of Trinity College, ii'j until his death he worked amidst the din of incessant battle, rather than in that serene at- mosphere of University existence, which is popu- larly believed to be unruffled by the tempests that agitate the outer world. It must be admitted that it would have required no ordinary tact and temper to make his appointment the success that the advisers of the Crown intended it to be. He was from the first unpopular, as a member of St. John's College ; and he did not improve matters by replying to a congratulation in the words of the Psalm, " By the help of my God I have leaped over the wall." Again, he was sent to Trinity as a reformer. The college had been declining in numbers and reputation for some years ; the kindness and good-nature of the two preceding Masters, Dr. North and Dr. Montague, had produced a relaxation of discipline, which had in turn caused both good manners and literature to decline ; appointments to Fellowships and Scholar- ships had been made from favour of the ruling powers, and not from merit only, as should have been the case then, and has always been the case since ; and, lastly, education was in a transitional state the old learning of the schoolmen was neg- lected and despised, and a more vigorous system having not yet been adopted, the college was in an intermediate state of torpor, from which it needed 128 Cambridge. a vigorous intellect to awaken it. Those, how- ever, who are content to doze away their lives in an easy routine are certain to resent the passionate eagerness of a thorough reformer. Interference from any one would, at that time, have en- countered violent opposition at Trinity. But a college of which Newton and Cotes were Fellows would soon have declared itself on the side of literary and scientific progress ; and it is sad to think of the opportunity that Bentley missed, thanks to his own perverse and headstrong character. For it is clear that, notwithstanding ail that happened, there was a party ready to support him on all occasions so long as support was possible ; and that party consisted of the best and most learned men in the University. The story of Dr. Bentley's career has been admirably told by Bishop Monk.i In his clear and accurate narrative the reader who desires to know more about this dismal period, will be able to follow the shifting fortunes of the combatants : Bentley's first attacks upon a society that he heartily despised, and for a time frightened into abject submission ; the appearance of Serjeant Miller on the scene, under whose valiant leader- ' "The Lite of Richard Bentley, D.D., Master of Trinity College."' By James Henry Monk, D.D., Lord Bishop of Gloucester. 2 vols., 8\'o. I-ondon, 1833. The Further History of Trinity College. 129 ship the Fellows turned the tide of war against their enemy by an appeal to the Master's Visitor, Bishop Moore of Ely ; Bentley's hairbreadth escape from deprivation by the sudden death of the Bishop, followed shortly afterwards by that of the Queen ; down to the humiliation of the Doctor on a totally different count by an over- whelming vote of the Senate, when, on the 17th of October, 17 18, a grace for degrading him was carried by a majority of fifty-eight votes, and, as a contemporary diarist records, " The great Dr. Bentley was reduced to be a bare Harry-Soph, being not able to gain above fifty votes in the whole University ; though a great many did indeed stay away, that they might not offend him by voting against him ; yet one hundred and eight appeared against him." The dispute began over a complete repair to the Master's Lodge, which involved external as well as internal changes, for Bentley insisted upon the introduction of sash-windows towards the Great Court ; and further, without specific autho- rity from the Seniors, built the handsome staircase which leads to the first floor. When these altera- tions were first proposed, it was stated bv him that they would cost ;/^3CO or ,^^400, at least so it was said ; and when at last the expense was found to be three or four times that amount, the Seniors, 10 1 30 Cambridge. who had meanwhile become greatly irritated against Bentley for his arrogant assumption of imperial power, disregard of themselves, and seclusion from the society of the Fellows, refused to sanction the payment. It was on this occasion that he inquired "whether they had forgotten his rusty sword?" and when the Bursar forbade the workmen to proceed, he told him " he would send him into the country to feed his turkeys." Shortly after this the indignant Master showed the College that he could use his sword to some effect ; for he went the length of refusing his sanction to the election of any Fellow to a College Preachership (which was at that time necessary in order to hold Church preferment together with a Fellowship) until the money was paid. After a resistance of two years, the Seniors yielded. Bentley's next great archi- tectural work was the internal decoration of the Chapel, with oak panelling and stalls, and an organ, built by the celebrated Father Smith. The Fellows were persuaded to subscribe a year's dividend each ; an unfortunate measure for them, for, in the vears 1703 and 1704, owing to the great expenses of the College, only half a dividend had been received. They, therefore, found their income anticipated, and actual distress was the result in several cases. All the comfort they got, however, from their pitiless tyrant was that " he expected The Further History of Trinity College. 131 their complaints, but that it would be all one twenty- years hence." Shortly after this, in consequence of an attempt to alter the system of dividends, thirty of the Fellows plucked up courage, and drew out a case against their Master, which they submitted to the Bishop of Ely. It is a most curious and entertaining document, being thrown into an interrogative form, as the following paragraphs show : "Why did you according to your own Will and Pleasure cause so many and so large Rooms to be wainscottcd in your said Lodge, which could only be designed to entertain Boarders therein for your private Gain, and make many other costly and needless Alterations and Additions, and that without the Advice, Consent, or Direction of the Senior Fellows, or the Bursars, or either of them, as the said College-Statutes require ? "Why were the several Punishments, Disgraces, and In- juries, imposed on several Fellows, and many Scholars, during your Mastership, without any hearing, statutable Convictions, or Authority ; and that in an insolent manner, by saying, Hie est Indus jocusque, you were not warm yet, or to that Effect? "Why did you use scurrilous Words and Language to several of the Fellows, particularly by calling Mr. Eden an Ass, and Mr. Rtisely the College Dog, and by telling Mr. Coc^ he would die in his Shoes, and calling many others Fools and Sots and other scurrilous Names ; and also use several other Expressions contrary to the 20th Chapter of the said College Statutes, as Farewell Peace to Trinity College, and many others of the like Nature ? " Why did you prophanely and blasphemously use and 132 Cambridge. apply several Expressions in Scripture ? As, He that honours me, I will honour. I set Life or Death before you, choose you zvhether, or to that effect ? " To this challenge Bentley was not slow in replying. He presently drew up, in the form of a " Letter to the Bishop of Ely," a bitter invective against those who had presumed to prefer against him a complaint, which he politely describes as "the last struggle and effort of vice and idleness against virtue, learning, and good discipline." Here, however, we must conclude our brief narrative of this great quarrel, which, as it lasted for nearly forty years, illustrated and augmented by numerous controversial pamphlets by both actors and spectators, is an almost inexhaustible mine for the study of academic opinions and customs of that time. The classical facade imposed upon the Lodge by Bentley lasted till 1842, when the Mastership of Dr. Whewell was inaugurated by a restoration of the front, though unfortunately the semicircular oriel was not rebuilt. Towards this work Mr. Beresford-Hope contributed ^^ 1,000 an act of munificence commemorated by an inscription on the oriel. At that time Dr. Whewell was not so popular as his great talents and high character ought to have made him. A brusque and some- what haughty manner was mistaken for pride ; and The Fur i her History of Trinity College. 133 the conjunction of his name with Mr. Hope's in the inscription gave rise to much indignant and unfavourable comment. A wag composed a parody on " The House that Jack built," which began thus : " This is the House that Hope built. This is the Master, rude and rough, Who lives in the House that Hope built. These are the Seniors, greedy and gruff, Who toady the Master, rude and rough. Who lives in the house that Hope built." The only other important alteration to the court is the construction of the Combination Room, in 177 1, under Essex, to effect which a hideous Italian front replaced the picturesque oriel shown by Loggan. The New Court or, as it was intended to be called, the King's Court, because George IV. contributed towards the cost of it _^ 1,000 was begun in 1823. The architect was Mr. Wilkins. The ceremony of laying the first stone was the occasion of a feast, which feast was the occasion of a serious diff^erence of opinion between the Master and Seniors on the one hand, and the undergraduate members of the College on the other. It was decided that the latter might come to dinner if they chose, but might not stay to hear the speeches afterwards. Indignant at what they regarded as a 134 Cambridge. slight on their good breeding, they preferred to stay away altogether ; and, much to the surprise of the Fellows, the lower part of the hall remained empty. The next day the following poetical epistle from an undergraduate of Trinity to a friend at Oxford made its appearance. The motto was intended to indicate the preference shown to the masters of arts, who wore black gowns, over the undergraduates, who wore blue ones : " Out spake the Rover to his gallant crew. Up with the blac\ flag, and down with the blue^^ "There was a feast, a mighty feast, For Science and the Gown ; The College buildings were increased, The Speaker was come down ; And men of war, and men of prayer, And men of every sort were there, Peer and Professor, Monk and Mayor, And Simeonite and sinner ; Sweating and swearing, fretting and frying ; Bowing and bustling, crowding and crying ; And very fond of speechifying, And very fond of dinner. Then looking big, and looking blue. Out-spake unto his gallant crew The gracious king of Trinity : ''Tis contrary to rule and right That we, the Seniors, should invite. The Further History of Trinity College. 135 To see us drink and hear us speak, The beardless bunglers in bad Greek, The learners of Latinity. We will not make the striplings sick With claret and with rhetoric ; The stream of eloquence and liquor Shall only flow for Vice and Vicar, The Court and Caput sweetly blent, And members of the Parliament, And Doctors of Divinity. 'Tis proper for young men to pay, And keep the peace, and keep away; They'll find the dinner quite a treat. And hear the band, and eat the meat ; But to stay drinking^strange vagary For men in statu pupillari.' All undergraduates are vermin The conclave did that day determine^ For tear of noise and squeeze. The Master should remove at once The emptiness of dish and dunce, Thick beer and thirsty bachelor, Plum-pudding and pert pensioner. Young scholar and old cheese. That all unseen and all unheard, The ancient ones might be absurd ; That all might join in port and pranks. In reasoning and returning thanks ; That Medallists might praise the haunches, And Wranglers fight about the branches ; And sober Tutors drain the bottle. And pedants quote from Aristotle ! A child might see how this would end. 136 Cambridge. Hot were our passions, O my friend, And very hot the weather. We all resolved, in either court. To cut the business very short, And cut it altogether. Was it a most atrocious sin To hurry to the 'Eagle Inn,' And there to fret, and there to fume, In a great passion and small room ? Perhaps it was. I only know, I sat me down at five or so, And dined upon a charming plan, Clean cloth, stewed eels, and Mary Anne. I am egregiously witty, And Mary Anne is rather pretty; And so we grew immensely merry. And drank the Doctor's health in sherry." Before leaving Trinity College, it will be interesting to mention where some of the great men who have made the College famous resided. Sir Isaac Newton occupied, from 1679 to 1696, the rooms on the first floor to the north of the Great Gateway. The space between the chapel and the entrance to the College is laid out as a garden, which, in those days, and until a few years ago, was rendered private by a high wall. This was attached to the rooms in question. In Newton's time, as Loggan's print shows, it was laid out in trim flower-beds, with three trees close to the staircase leading down to it. In the next The Further History of Trinity College. 137 century the rooms were assigned to Dr. Richard Walker, whose close friendship for, and subser- vience to, Bentley, has gained him a niche in the " Dunciad." When the great critic appears, " His hat, which never vail'd to human pride, Walker with rev'rence took, and laid aside : " and at the end of his speech he cries, " ' Walker ! our hat ; ' nor more he deigned to say ; But, stern as Ajax' spectre, strode away." It is recorded that during Walker's time every relic of Newton's studies and experiments was " respectfully preserved to the minutest par- ticular," and pointed out to visitors " with the most circumstantial precision." The noble statue of him, by Roubiliac, which occupies the place of honour at the west end of the ante-chapel, was given in 1755 by Dr. Robert Smith, Master. The beauty of it as a work of art has been amply recognised by the best judges. Chantrey called it " the noblest of our English statues," and Words- worth has recorded how he used to lie awake at night and think of it, when the moonlight shone upon " The antc-chapel, where the statue stood Of Newton, with his prism and silent face ; The marble index of a mind for ever \^oyaging through strange seas of thought alone." 138 Cambridge. In the rooms under these William Makepeace Thackeray resided. It was probably in remem- brance of them that he placed Henry Esmond in " comfortable rooms in the great court close by the gate, and near to the famous Mr. Newton's lodgings." The rooms next the chapel, on the ground-floor of the same staircase, belonged to Macaulay. His biographer, Mr. Trevelyan, after recording this fact, proceeds as follows : " From the door of these rooms there runs a flagged path- way which affords an acceptable relief from the rugged pebbles that surround it. Here, as a Bachelor of Arts, he would walk, book in hand, morning after morning, through- out the Long Vacation, reading with the same eagerness and the same rapidity, whether the volume was the most abstruse of treatises, the loftiest of poems, or the flimsiest of novels. That was the spot where in his failing years he specially loved to renew the feelings of the past ; and some there are who can never revisit it without the fancy that there, if any- where, his dear shade must linger." Lord Byron's rooms are said to have been on the north side of Nevile's Court, those on the first floor on the west side of the central staircase. His own account of the wild life that he led in them, with the " large assortment of jockeys, gamblers, boxers, authors, parsons, and poets," that he gathered together, are probably parts of that love of exaggeration of his own defects which was one of his strangest characteristics. The tame bear, The Further History of Trinity College. 139 " his new friend, the finest in the world," who was " to sit for a fellowship," was not, however, kept in College, as is often reported, but in a more appropriate locality a stable in the Ram Yard. Another legend places Byron's rooms at the west end of the first floor on the south side of the same court ; and it was to these that Countess Guiccioli, then Madame de Boissy, the lady who had been the object of his last and most enduring attach- ment, had been directed, when, some thirty years after her lover's death, she made a pilgrimage to Cambridge for the purpose of seeing the place where he had lived as a young man. She had given no notice of her visit, and the gentleman to whom she brought a letter of introduction was not at home when she arrived. On the stairs she met one of the Senior Fellows, of whom she inquired if she could see Byron's rooms, of which he was himself the occupier. He, thinking she was an ordinary sightseer, with a taste for romantic poetry, good-naturedly acquiesced. She examined the rooms carefully for some moments, and took her leave. At dinner afterwards, the gentleman whom she had meant to visit, having found her letter and card, mentioned his disappointment at having missed her. " Ah ! " said the other, " so that was Countess Guiccioli ! I thought the lady took an uncommon interest in the rooms I showed her I " Byron did 1 40 Cambridge. not make a good impression in College. Those who remembered him never spoke kindly of him, and stories are still current of his bad taste and his morbid sensitiveness. Once, on going out of Hall, he forgot himself so far as to mimic the gestures of the Master as he walked behind him towards the Combination Room. He was fond of boxing, and affected the society of Jackson, the celebrated pugilist, with whom he often walked and drove in public. When his tutor, Mr. Tavel, remonstrated with him on being seen in company so much be- neath his rank, he replied, *' Really, sir, I cannot understand you. With the single exception of yourself, I can assure you that Mr. Jackson's manners are infinitely superior to those of the Fellows of the College whom I meet at the high table." The late Master of Magdalene, Mr. George Neville Grenville, when a freshman, was one day at his rooms to take wine after the early dinner in Hall. When the party separated to attend a concert in the Senate House, Byron and Neville walked together. The pavement was narrow, and Neville fell behind Byron out of politeness. Instead of thanking him for his cour- tesy, Byron exclaimed, " Ah ! I see what it is ; you want to spy out my deformity." The two Tennysons, Alfred and Charles, never had rooms in College. The former lodged at first The Further History of Trinity College. I41 in the Rose Crescent ; afterwards the brothers had rooms together in a house opposite the Bull Hotel. Arthur Hallam " kept " in the New Court, on the central staircase of the south side, in the set of rooms on the first floor to the right as the staircase is faced. The stanzas in " In Memoriam," where the poet says, " Up that long walk of limes I past, to see the rooms in which he dwelt," have become the parent of a tradition that Hallam's rooms were on the west side of the court. The plain sense of the words, however, is, that he entered the New Court by the avenue, and so came to the well- known staircase. "Another name was on the door : I linger'd; all within was noise Of songs, and clapping hands, and boys That crashed the glass and beat the floor ; Where once we held debate, a band Of youthful friends, on mind and art And labour, and the changing mart. And all the framework of the land." VI. King's College. THE history of Trinity College, growing as it did out of the small medieval foundations of Michael House and King's Hall, led us away from the distant times in which they were first established almost to our own days. The stately chapel of King's College, however, the last thoroughly medieval structure erected in Cam- bridge,- which, notwithstanding the changes and chances of the long period that elapsed between its foundation and completion, bears indelibly the stamp of the age in which it was planned, will carry us back to the period in University history from which we diverged. The fourteenth century had witnessed the es- tablishment, within less than thirty years, of no less than five colleges : Clare Hall, Pembroke Hall, Gonville Hall, Trinity Hall, and Corpus Christi College, all founded between 1326 and Kings College. 143 1352. After this there is a break of nearly a century, during which nothing was done either by royal or private munificence. The accession of Henry the Sixth was the signal for a fresh depar- ture. Not only did he found his own magnificent college, but his Queen, Margaret of Anjou, established a second in its immediate neighbour- hood in 1448. As Fuller quaintly puts it : " Indeed, as Miltiades' trophy in Athens would not suffer Themistocles to sleep, so this Queen, beholding her husband's bounty in building King's College, was restless in herself with holy emulation until she had produced something of the like nature. A strife wherein wives, without breach of duty, may contend with their husbands which should exceed in pious performances." She pro- posed to call it the College of St. Margaret and St. Bernard, but after her husband's deposition the name was changed. Andrew Docket, the first master, who had been appointed to that office by Queen Margaret, hastened with pardonR,ble sub- servience to ingratiate himself with her successor, and so cleverly did he manage that Elizabeth Woodville consented to be named as co-foundress, and the college became " the Queens' College of St. Margaret and St. Bernard," now familiarly known simply as Queens' College. This foundation was succeeded by that of St. Catharine's College, 1 44 Cambridge. founded in 1475 ^Y Robert Wodelarke, third Provost of King's College. It was on the 12th of February, 1441, when Henry of Windsor was only nineteen years old, that he signed the charter of his first foundation for a Rector and twelve scholars only, which he proposed to call " The Royal College of St. Nicholas," in commemoration of the saint on whose day he had been born. This college would have been no larger than those previously founded, and moreover, from the nature of the ground, was incapable of future extension. It is difficult to understand how the Commissioners employed by the King one of whom was Dr. John Langton, then Master of Pembroke Hall and Vice-Chancellor of the University came to select a site so cramped and so inconvenient. It had Milne Street, then one of the principal thorough- fares of the town, on the west ; the University Library and Schools on the east ; and a public lane on the north. On the south side only, which was also the narrowest, had it any outlet at all, and even there the ground available for that indispensable appendage to a medieval college, a garden, was extremely narrow. We ought, per- haps, to be grateful for the selection of ground which the scholars presently discovered to be too small for their accommodation ; for they lost no Kings College. 145 time in petitioning the King to provide them with ampler habitations, and it was partly in consequence of that prayer of theirs that he acquired the larger site, and planned the noble college whereof Stow remarks " that if the rest of the house had proceeded according to the chappell (as his full intent and meaning was) the like colledge could scarce have been found againe in any Christian land." There were, however, other motives determining the King's action in this matter. It must be remembered that shortly before the foundation of the college at Cambridge, on October 11, 1440, he had signed the charter of foundation of Eton College. Previous to this, in July of the same year, he had visited Winchester, and studied carefully, from personal observation, the working of William of Wykeham's system of education. It does not appear, however, that he all at once conceived the idea of connecting his school and college together ; in fact, there is evidence that he at tirst intended that the two should be indepen- dent. Subsequently, however, either from personal conviction or from the influence of those about him, he determined that his Eton scholars should participate in the Cambridge foundation. In the charter granted to King's College, July 10, 1443, he says : II 146 Cambridge. "It is our fixed and unalterable purpose, being moved thereto, as we trust, by the inspiration of the Holy Spirit, that our poor scholars of our Royal foundation of St. Mary of Eton, after they have been sufiiciently taught the first rudiments of grammar, shall be transferred thence to our aforesaid College of Cambridge, which wo will shall be henceforth denominated Our College Royal of St. Mary and St. Nicholas, there to be more thoroughly instructed in a liberal course of study, in other branches of knowledge, and other professions." Furthermore, in order to " weld the two colleges together in an everlasting bond of brotherhood," he ordains that the name of Rector shall be abolished, and the Eton title of Provost be adopted for the Head ; and that for all time the college shall be known by the title of " Provost and Scholars," and have all the rights and privileges before granted to it. The acquisition of the new site was begun at once, A fresh commission was issued for the pur- pose, and as each parcel of ground was obtained, it was conveyed to the college. The task was beset with difficulties that would have daunted a mind less firmly resolved on carrying out the end in view than the King's ; difficulties, indeed, that would have been insuperable except by royal influence, backed by a royal purse. The ground on which King's College now stands was then densely popula*-ed. It occupied nearly the whole Kings College. 1 47 ot" the parish of St. John Baptist, whose church is beheved to have stood near the west end of the chapel. Milne Street crossed the site from north to south, in a direction that may be easily identified from the two ends of the street that still remain, under the names of Trinity Hall Lane and Queens' Lane. The space between Milne Street and Trumpington Street, then called High Street, was occupied by the houses and gardens of different proprietors, and was traversed by a narrow thoroughfare called Piron Lane, leading from High Street to St. John's Church. At the corner of Milne Street and this lane, occupying the ground on which about half the ante-chapel now stands, was the small college called God's House, founded in 1439 by William Byngham, for the study of grammar, which, as he observes in his petition to Henry VL for leave to found it, " is the rote and grounde of all other sciences." On the west side of Milne Street, between it and the river, were the hostels of St. Austin, St. Nicholas, and St. Edmund, besides many dwelling-houses. This district was traversed by several lanes, affording to the townspeople ready access to the river, and to a wharf on its bank called Salthithe. No detailed account has been preserved of the negotiations necessary for the acquisition of this ground, between six and seven acres in extent, and 14S Cambridge in the very heart of Cambridge. From some of the conveyances, however, we get curious and significant glimpses of the hard terms enforced by the vendors, who naturally were not loth to seize so golden an opportunity for enriching themselves ; and of the heart-burnings that the sequestration of so much property for college purposes gave rise to. The greatest offence appears to have been given by the closing of the lanes leading down to the river, which, as we explained in the first chapter, was of primary importance to medieval Cambridge as a highway. In five years' time, however, the difficulties were all got over ; the town yielded up, though not with the best grace, the portion of Milne Street required, and all the other thoroughfares ; the hostels were suppressed, or transferred to other sites ; the church of St. John was pulled down, and the parish united to that of St. Edward, whose church bears evidence, by the spacious aisles attached to its choir, of the extension rendered necessary at that time by the addition of the members of Clare Hall and Trinity Hall to the number of its parishioners. By a charter confirmed by the Parliament of 1449, the splendid site was conveyed to the Provost and Scholars, together with the ground beyond this river, now the college gardens ; ample revenues were granted to them ; and the Founder bade South Porch of Kjjig's College Chapel. J' >oiii a tiyaii'hi:; /)' /J. Ilrunct Dchaiiu's. Kings College. 1 5 1 them take possession of the new site, erect buildings upon it, and flourish there " as well or even better than they and their predecessors had done on the site originally assigned to them." The buildings of the extended college were commenced by the laying of the first stone of the chapel, on St. James' Day (July 25th), 1446. The buildings of Eton had been begun just five years before, July 3, J 441. Neither of these colleges was completed according to the inten- tions of the Founder, and we should be left to conjecture what those intentions were had he not fortunately committed to writing his detailed scheme for both in a document called " The Will of King Henry the Sixth." The term " Will " does not signify a testament, but an expression of his deliberate purpose with regard to the arrangement of the buildings, the payment of the principal workmen, and the assignment of funds to defray the expense. This document, signed in March, 1448, is on several grounds one of the most remarkable works in the English language. The design which it describes is a marvellous union of beauty and convenience, and the measurements of the different parts are set down so clearly and so exactly that a ground-plan can without much difficulty be constructed from them; minute details of work- 152 Cambridge. men and their wages are carefully entered into ; ample funds are provided out of the revenues of the Duchy of Lancaster and vested in the hands of trustees ; future contingencies are guarded against by every precaution that legal ingenuity could invent ; and, lastly, in a strain of earnest eloquence, that becomes almost tragic when we consider the fate that befell the writer and his works within a few years, he exhorts those to whom these trusts are com- mitted to discharge them in all points faithfully. We will describe briefly the design for King's, premising that that for Eton bears a general resemblance to it, sufficiently close to prove that both were derived from a common original Wykeham's College at Winchester. The design for Eton being executed more immediately under the King's own supervision, was constantly altered, and, had it ever been completed, would probably have resulted in something very difi'erent from what we find described in the Will. That for King's, on the contrary, so far as it was carried out, is exactly what we find described therein, except in some minute particulars, which may be neglected in a general description. The chapel, 288 feet long by 40 feet broad, was to form the north side of the quadrangle, of which the ft^ C; "-^f ^<^ ^ e "Jl ::^ ^^ p ^ ti, >Cl o King's College. 155 east and west sides were to " close vnto bothe endes of the chirche " that is, were to abut against the chapel, which would, therefore, have been an integral part of the quadrangle, instead of standing apart, as it now does, like a model on a board. This quadrangle would have measured 238 feet from east to west, by 230 feet from north to south. The gate of entrance would have been in the same position as at present, in the middle of the east side ; that side and the south side would have been occupied by chambers ; the west side by a lecture-room, with a library over it, and by the buttery and hall. The Provost's lodge would have been at the intersection of the west and south sides. The Provost's offices and the college kitchen were behind the hall. At the west end of the chapel separated from it in all probability by an interval such as exists at New College, Oxford, and as was directed in the Will for Eton, " for to sette in certain trees and floures behoueful and conuenient for the service of the chirche " there was to be a burial-ground, measuring 175 feet from north to south, by 200 feet from east to west. It was to be surrounded by a cloister, and in the middle of the west side there was to be a belfry, 1 20 feet high to the corbel-table, with 156 Cambridge. four angle-turrets, crowned with pinnacles. Access to the grounds beyond the river was provided by a bridge, in the centre of the western side of the site ; and all the circuit of the college was to be defended by a high wall, with towers at intervals. The approach to the bridge was also to be guarded by a tower ; there was to be a second gateway in the wall next the street, crowned with turrets ; a tower was to give access to the hall ; and there were to be staircase-towers in the inside of the court. Thus the four turrets of the chapel, which have often been criticised for their exact uniformity, would only have been a portion of a forest of spires, small and great, rising above the roofs ; and they were all so arranged that, when viewed from a distance, they would not have interfered with one another, but each would have had its own proper and befitting position. At the conclusion of the Will the King names fourteen persons, into whose charge he commits the various trusts before rehearsed. They were the Bishops of Winchester and St. Asaph, the Earls of Devon, Salisbury, Northumberland, and Shrewsbury, the Lord Clifford, the Lord Wells, and the Provosts of Eton and King's, with others of less note. Of these the first-named, W^illiam Waynflete, Kings College. 157 whom Henry had promoted from the Master- ship of Winchester to be first Head Master, then Provost, of Eton, was the one whom he evidently regarded as a personal friend, whom he could trust implicity to carry out his wishes. He thus commits the supreme direction of the whole scheme to him : " Furthermore, for the final perfourmyingof my seid wil to be put eflcctuclly in execucion, I, considerying the grete discrecion of the seide worshepful fader in god William nowe Bisshop of Wynchestre, his high trought and feruent zele which at alle tymcs he hath haddc and hath vnto my wccl, And whiche I haue founde and proued in hym, and for the grete and hool confidence whiche I haue vnto hym for thoo causes wol that he not oonly as Surucour, but also as executor and director of my seid wil, be priuee vnto allc and euery execucion of the pcrfourmyng of my same wil, and that his consente in any wise be hadde therto." Finally, he appeals to his trustees generally by the most solemn of all considerations : "And that this my seid wil in euery poynt before rcherccd may the more effectually be executed .1. not oonlv pray and desire but also exortc in Crist require and charge allc and euery of my seid feftecs myn Executours and Surucour or Surueours in the vertuc of the aspercion of Christes blessed blodc and of his pcyncful passion that they hauyng god and mync cntcnt oonly before their eycn, not Icttyng for drcde or fauour of any pcrsoune lyuing of what estat degree or condicion that he be truly fcithfully 158 Cambridge. and diligently execute my same vvil, and euery part thereof, as they wol answere before the blessed and drcdcful visage of our Lord Jhesu in his most fcreful and last dome, when euery man shal most streitly be examined and demed after his demeritees. " And furthermore, for the more sure accomplisshement of this my said wil I in the most entier and most feruent wise pray my said heirs and successours, and euery of thcym, that they shewe them self wel-willyng fcithful and tender lovers of my desire in this behalf; And in the bowelles of Christ our alder iuste and streit Juge, exorte theym to remember the terrible comminations and full fearful imprecations of holy scripture agayns the brekers of the lawe of god, and the letters of goode and holy werlces, the which imprecations Holy Scripture reherscth in the booke of Deuteronomy, saying, ' If thou wilt not hearken unto the voice of the Lord thy God, all these curses shall cotne upon thee and overtake thee : cursed shalt thou be in the city, and cursed shalt thou be in the field : cursed shalt thou be when thou comest in, and cursed shalt thou be when thou goest out. The Lord shall send upon thee cursing, vexation, and rebuJ^e, in all that thou settest thine hand unto for to do, until thou be destroyed, and until thou perish quickly, because of the wickedness of thy doings whereby thou hast for sa\en me.^^' As is generally the case with medieval build- ings, the designer of this elaborate piece of collegiate architecture is unknown. In the case of Eton, even tradition is silent ; in the case of King's, it names Nicholas Close, one of the original Fellows, who received a grant of arms from the King for the pains he had taken in promoting the royal buildings, and who was Kings College. i 59 certainly overseer of the works at their com- mencement. There is, however, no proof that he furnished the design. One point alone seems certain, namely, that both colleges were undoubtedly planned by the same person ; and, considering how anxiously the King himself watched over the progress of Eton, changing the design repeatedly, and noting in his own hand the altered dimensions that he wished to introduce, it is surely not unnatural to suppose that he may himself have planned the whole scheme, for the realisation of which he displayed an anxiety more keen than he is likely to have felt for any plan devised by the ingenuity of others. In the arrangement of details, however, he was doubtless assisted. At Eton we find that his friend, the Marquis of Suffolk, not only supervised the expenditure, but was con- sulted from time to time on points referred to him by the clerk of the works, among others on the design of the hall. Waynflete again, who, from the terms in which he is spoken of in the Will, unquestionably enjoyed his entire confidence, may well have had something to do with originating the whole scheme. He was a practical architect, as we see from his own foundation, Magdalene College, Oxford ; and his connection with Winchester may account for 1 60 Cambridge. the general resemblance already noticed between the design of Henry the Sixth and that of Wykeham. There is good reason for believing that the first stone of the chapel was laid by King Henry in person, after which it proceeded slowly and halt- ingly, for the disasters that befell prevented the regular payment of the money assigned for the works even from the first, down to his deposition. The beautiful white magnesian limestone which marks the limit of the work done in his reign, is another proof of the close connection that he wished to maintain between King's and Eton. It was obtained from a quarry at Hudleston, near Sherburne, in Yorkshire, which he had acquired from the owner, Henry Vavasour, for the joint use of the two foundations. The stone was quarried at their joint expense, and then divided between them. There is evidence, that for the last two years or more before King Henry's deposition the works must have been almost, if not quite, stopped ; and in 1460 money was actually sent from Cambridge to him at Northampton, just a week before the disastrous battle at which he was taken prisoner. The inmates of the college must have been profoundly discouraged ; their anxiety is shown, more elo- quently than by mere words, by the numerous Kings College. i6i payments to servants sent to London, to New- market, to Royston, to Barkway, to obtain intelli- gence (^p7'o novis audiendis). Anything was better than the state of wretched uncertainty they were in. At last, when the news of his death came, it is said that the workmen, who were sawing a block of limestone, threw down their tools, believ- ing that the works were at end, and left it half sawn in two. The story may have been invented afterwards to account for the presence of the stone, which lay upon the college green until 1724, when it was used as the foundation-stone of the Fellows' Building ; but it was certainly believed at that time, for it is alluded to in the inscription then engraved upon it. After this catastrophe, though the works did not cease entirely, as is commonly supposed, they made but little progress until near the end of the reign of Edward the Fourth, who was then moved to give one thousand marks, probably through the intercession of the Provost, Walter Field, who had been one of his chaplains. The sum obtained, however, was too small to accomplish much ; nor could the ;/^700 which Richard the Third con- tributed have effected much more. After his death the building ceased entirely for twenty-four years, a break in the work with which the first period of the construction of the chapel ends. 12 Kings College (^continued). A FEW months before the close of his lifcj -^^~^ King Henry the Seventh determined to complete the building with which the name of his uncle was so intimately associated. It had been accepted, as we have seen, even by Edward the Fourth and Richard the Third, as a royal possession which the kings of England were bound to finish. If they had been interested in it, much more ought he to be so, of whom Henry of Lancaster had foretold that he would be his successor, a tradition which Shakespeare has thus commemorated : "'King Henry. My Lord of Somerset, what youth is that Ot whom you seem to have so tender care ? Somerset, My liege, it is young Henry, Earl of Rich- mond. Ki/ig Henry. Come hither, England's hope. \_Lays his hand on his head.~\ If secret powers Suggest but truth to my divining thoughts, King's College. 163 This pretty lad will prove our country's bliss. His looks are full of peaceful majesty, His head by nature framed to wear a crown, His hand to wield a sceptre, and himself Likely in time to bless a regal throne. Make much of him, my lords, for this is he Must help you more than you are hurt by me." Henry Tudor " loved to accumulate treasure," says his biographer ; but to do honour to his departed uncle, whose crown he had inherited, he was prepared to lay aside his accustomed penu- riousness. Policy, as well as superstition, probably influenced him in this. Popular feeling through- out England had come to believe that " Henry's holy shade " was working miracles. Pilgrims had crowded to the grave at Chertsey, where his corpse had first been laid before its removal to Windsor ; and his image on the rood-screen at York had become an object of passionate adoration. A formal recognition of his saintly merits by a regular canonisation had once been seriously meditated. It was to be accompanied by a removal in state of his remains from Windsor to Westminster, there to be deposited in the new chapel. The Pope had agreed to perform his part in the ceremony ; but at the last moment it was abandoned, as Holinshed would have us believe, on account of the great cost it would have entailed : " so the king left oflF his suite in that behalfe, thinking better to save 1 64 Cambridge. his n onie than to purchase a new holidaie of St. Henri with so great a price." But when he tound himself stricken with a mortal disease, which no sacrifice of his ill-gotten wealth could cure, he began to think whether another and a better use could not be made of it. That such was the temper of his mind is evident from his Will, in which an extravagance of devotion and almsgiving takes precedence of all other pro- visions. After brief directions for his sepulture and his tomb, he directs that " forthwith and im- mediately after our decesse " ten thousand masses shall be s.nd at Westminster and in London " for the remission of oure synnes, and the weale of our Soule ; " two thousand pounds are to be dis- tributed in alms " betwix the houre of oure decesse, and th' ende of the daie of our Sepul- ture ; " all debts are to be paid, and all wrongs redressed ; the revenue of certain lands, to the value of one hundred marks, is to be expended in yearly and weekly obits, with tapers, torches, and lights, burning "continuelly and perpetuelly, while the world shall endure, about our Towmbe ; " hospitals are to be founded, "for as much as we inwardly consideir, that the seven workes of Charitie and Mercy bee most profitable, due, and necessarie, for the salvacion of man's soule ; " largess is to be given to cathedral chapters and King's College. 165 religious houses ; the works at Westminster ana elsewhere are to be completed ; images of the King are to be set up on the shrines of the Con- fessor and of St. Thomas of Canterbury ; and lastly, King Henry the Sixth is to be royally honoured and commemorated, " for the singular trust that we haue to the praires of our said Uncle." Eton had been completed already by the pious care of Waynflete ; it remained for him to complete the sister college at Cambridge, " that thereby shuld not be onely a notable acte and a meritorious werke perfited, which else were like to grow to desolacion and never to haye ben done and accomplisshed, but also diuine seruice there hereafter be mayntened and supported to thonour and laude of Almighty God, thencrese of cunnyng and doctrine of his laws in edifyng and encrese of our faithe." Moreover, King Henry the Seventh had had ample opportunities of seeing with his own eyes the sad condition of the chapel, for in the course of his reign he had visited Cambridge five times. The last occasion was on the eve of St. George's Day, April 22, 1506, on his way to the shrine of Our Lady at Walsingham. He was received with all the quaint solemnities usual at that period, the University and the religious orders attending him to Queens' College, where he stayed. Having rested awhile, he "did on his 1 66 Cambridge. Gowne and Mantell of the Gartier," and, accom- panied by the Knights of the Order, proceeded to King's College Chapel, which had been decorated for the occasion with paper scutcheons of the knights' companions arms. There he kept the eve of the festival, and the festival itself, with the usual ceremonies. This chapel must have been the old chapel, which stood between the present one and the Old Court ; but, as he proceeded to it from Queens' College, he must have passed so close to the unfinished chapel, that he could not fail to be struck by its incompleteness. At that time the east end alone had been roofed in, while the whole ante-chapel was probably a grass-grown enclosure, with walls not more than eight feet high. The Will was signed 31 March, 1509 ; but work had been resumed in May, 1508, with a staff of at least 140 workmen of different trades, paid for by the King ; and a week before the Will was signed he had conveyed to the college ^^5,000, with directions to his executors to supply such further sums " as shall suffice for the perfite finisshing and perfourminge of the same werkes." In consequence they contributed a second sum of /^5,ooo in 15 12. The first of these two sums was probably expended in finishing the walls ; the second in constructing the great vault, a glorious King's College. 167 specimen of the fan-vaulting then in fashion, and in raising the battlements and pinnacles. The stonework was probably finished by July, 15 15. Much, however, still remained to be done ; and the college humbly solicited Henry Vllf. to glaze the windows the scheme for which, there is reason to believe, had been already sanctioned by his father and to furnish stalls and pavement. Ten years elapsed before he found time (or money) to undertake so important a task, and it was not until 1526 that contracts for the windows were signed. These documents prove that these splendid pictures in glass were all executed by Englishmen except four, the patterns for which were to be given by the Englishmen to Flemings resident in England. They had been begun by Barnard Flower, the King's glazier, about 15 15, but he dying before he had finished more than four windows, and possibly the armorial bearings in the tracery, the rest were entrusted to Galyon Hoone, Richard Bownde, Thomas Reve, James Nicholson (F^nglishmen) ; Francis Williamson, and Symon Symondes (Flemings) ; all described simply as " glasyers," resident in London or Southwark. The designs were to be approved by three persons selected by the College : Dr. Robert Hacomblen, the Provost, William Holgylle, Master of the Savoy, and Thomas Larke, Archdeacon of Nor- 1 68 Cambridge. wlch. It was covenanted that the entire work should be finished by May, 1531. The west wnidow was included in one of the contracts ; but there is not the slightest fragment of evidence that it was ever executed. It is often alluded to in the accounts, and repairs to it are often necessary. They are, however, always executed in white glass. Again, it is almost impossible to suppose that so large a surface of coloured glass, had it ever been painted, could have perished completely. Some fragments of it would have remained, either in the tracery or in some other part of the chapel. It has been suggested sometimes that in the four windows next to it, on the north and south sides, which are now in a sad state of ruin and confusion, we have the displaced glass of the west window. This hypothesis is wholly inadmissible. Those windows form part of the regular series ; and their present condition is due, in some degree, to defective painting originally, but far more to the fact that they have been mended by ignorant per- sons, who have put the component pieces together inaccurately. As these windows are the most important speci- mens of English glass-painting that have been preserved, a brief notice of the arrangement and treatment of the subjects depicted in them must now be given. No precise distribution of the Kings College. 169 subjects is mentioned in the contracts. It is merely agreed that the windows are to be filled "with good, clene, sure, and perfyte glasse and Oryent Colours and Imagery of the Story of the olde lawe and the newe lawe after the fourme, maner, goodeness, curyousytie, and clenelynes in euery poynt of the glasse wyndowes of the kynges newe Chapell at Westmynster ; And also accord- yngly and after such maner as oon Barnard Flower glasyer late deceessed by indenture stode bounde to doo." They were, therefore, to be, in some degree, a reproduction of the windows in Henry the Seventh's Chapel at Westminster ; and, also, a con- tinuation of the series commenced fifteen years before by Barnard Flower, and interrupted by his death. Unfortunately, the contract made with Flower is lost, and the windows at Westminster have been destroyed, so that we are without infor- mation as to the two series that were to be fol- lowed. Of the twenty-six windows, twenty-five are filled with ancient glass, of which the east window, as usual, contains the Crucifixion. In the remainder " the story of the olde and newe lawe " is depicted in the following manner. Each window contains five lights, divided by a transom. The central light contains four figures, called " Messengers " - two above and two below the transom -who carrv lyo Cambridge. scrolls or tablets, or some device on which a text may be inscribed, descriptive of the pictures in the lights to the right and left of them. There are four pictures to each window. Those in the lower tier exhibit, with one or two exceptions, scenes taken out of the New Testament. They proceed in regular sequence, commencing at the north-west corner with the Birth of the Virgin. This and the window next to it are occupied with her legendary history ; the third window contains the Annuncia- tion and the Nativity ; the fourth the Circumcision and the Adoration of the Magi ; the fifth the Puri- fication and the Flight into Egypt ; the sixth the Idols of Egypt falling down before the Infant Jesus and the Massacre of the Innocents ; the seventh and following windows the principal events in the life of Christ before the Crucifixion. On the south side at the east end we find the Entombment, the Resurrec- tion, and the other events recorded in the Gospels, ending with the Ascension and the Descent of the Holy Spirit in the sixth window. These are succeeded by the principal scenes in the lives of St. John, St. Peter, and St. Paul, as recorded in the Acts of the Apostles. In the last two windows the series resumes the legendary history of the Virgin, and ends with her Assumption and Corona- tion. The upper series consists of pictures out of the Old Testament, the Apocrypha, or legendary King's College. 171 history, selected on account of their supposed parallelism with those of the former series ; but occasionally this system is interrupted, and the upper lights continue the story exhibited in the lower, as in the history of the Virgin, and the scenes from the Acts of the Apostles. A bare enumeration of the subjects, however, can give but a poor idea of these glorious paint- ings. What first arrests the attention is the singularly happy blending of colours, produced by a most ingenious juxtaposition of pure tints. The half-tones, so dear to the present generation, were fortunately unknown in the days when they were set up. Thus, though there is a profusion of brilliant scarlet, and light blue, and golden yellow, there is no gaudiness. Again, all the glass admits light, without let or hindrance, the shading being laid on with sparing hand, so that the greatest amount of brilliancy is insured. This is further enhanced by a very copious use of white, or slightly yellow, glass. It must not, however, be supposed that a grand effect of colour is all that has been aimed at. The pictures bear a close study as works of art. The figures are rather larger than life, and boldly drawn, so as to be well seen from a great distance ; but the faces are full of expression and individuality, and each scene is beautiful as a composition. They would well 172 Cambridge. bear reduction within the narrow limits of an easel picture. As examples of special excellence maybe cited, the Manua in the Wilderness, where the woman, seated with her starving child in her lap, offers a wonderful picture of despair ; the Entry into Jerusalem ; the Maries at the Tomb of Christ ; the Descent into Hell ; and the Resurrection. Again, what richness of imagination is shown in the forms of angels and demons ! How beautiful are the rosy plumes of the angel that witnesses the Baptism of Christ ; how weird and fantastic is the demon that mocks at the sufferings of Job, or the doomed spirit that glares at the Saviour, who has broken into his domain, and is standing on the gates of Hell ! Careful examination shows that these paintings bear evidence of execution by various hands, as might indeed be expected from the number of persons who were parties to the contracts. More- over, they are of unequal merit, not merely in execution, but in design. It is evident, therefore, that, subject to the observance of a certain sequence, the treatment of a particular scene was left to the " glaziers " who executed it. This at once destroys the tradition that the designs were furnished by Albert Diirer or Hans Holbein. There is no doubt that a German or Flemish influence is discernible in some of the sub- King's College. 173 iects ; but that is no more than might be expected, when we consider the number of sets of pictures illustrating the Life and Passion of Christ that had appeared in Germany and Flanders during the half-century preceding their execution. These, of which one of the best known is the " Mirror of Human Salvation " (Speculum humane Sahationis), usually contained illustrations of the life of Christ, accompanied by scenes out of the Old Testament, and not unfrequently preceded, as here, by the legendary life of the Virgin. Again, a resemblance has been observed between some of them and the treatment of the same subject by Raphael, and he has been named as the designer. Italian influence, however, had already been felt in Flanders, and may not improbably have affected England also ; for, considering the frequent intercourse between England and Rome, it would have been strange if the great and sudden impulse given to religious art by the painter whom the Pope had selected for the decoration of the Vatican, had been without its effects on English art also. The value of these designs, and of those of a smaller and far inferior series at Fairford, in Gloucestershire, as indications of F^nglish art, has been frequently recognised. Horace Walpole held that " the artists who executed them (the 1 74 Cambridge. windows at King's College) would figure as considerable painters in any reign ; " and Vandyke " often affirmed to Charles I. that many of the figures in the Fairford windows were so exquisitely done that they could be exceeded by no pencil." Again, in answer to the frequent observations that they cannot be of English work because artists so distinguished would certainly have produced other works of equal merit, it may be urged that the art of the Middle Ages and early Renaissance was devoted almost exclusively to the decoration of churches, and was expended upon two most perishable materials, glass and plaster ; and that at the Reformation first, and during the Civil War afterwards, it was one of the chief objects of the Puritans to sweep the whole of that art away. Relics of it are occasionally found that testify to the extent and the excellence of it. When the frescoes executed at Eton in Edward the Fourth's reign were discovered in 1847 Mr. Street "had no hesitation in saying that these paintings are the finest which have yet been discovered in England ; more artistic, and as full of religious feeling as any, and most interesting as having most probably been executed by Florentine artists, who, for aught we know, may have been the pupils of the Beato Angelico, or his friends ; as they were the con- temporaries of Francia, of Perugino, and of King's College. 175 Ghirlandaio." It now turns out, however, that they were the work oi a. man with the plainest of plain English names William Baker. Again, as regards glass, the whole series of windows at Westminster, from which those at King's were copied, has perished ; the windows of Great St. Mary's, in Cambridge, by Nicholson, and those of St. Mary Overey, in Southwark, by Galyon Hoone, both glaziers employed here, have equally disappeared. There is hardly any cathedral, or in- deed any large church, which has not the same story of devastation to tell. That these windows them- selves should have been saved is a marvel ; and how it came to pass is not now exactly known. The story that they were taken out and hidden, or as one version of it says, buried, may be dismissed as an idle fabrication. More likely the Puritan sentiments of the then Provost, Dr. Whichcote, were regarded with such favour by the Earl of Manchester during his occupation of Cambridge, that he interfered to save the chapel and the college from molestation. For there is ample evidence in the account-books to prove that the Society was not in any way interfered with ; and though soldiers were quartered in the college, they do not appear to have committed any damage other than the most trivial. The detriment that the glass has suffered is due to ignorant glaziers 176 Cambridge. by whom it was repaired on may occasions during the last century ; and so frequent and so thorough have been those repairs, that it is a wonder, not that the damage is so great, but that anything has been preserved. The series, left unfinished, as we have shown, was worthily completed in 1879. In that year the west window was filled with a noble representation of the Last Judgment, executed by Messrs. Clayton and Bell, and given by Francis Edmund Stacey, formerly Fellow. The windows having been completed, the wood-work was undertaken. The organ-screen, or, as it was called down to the middle of the seventeenth century, the '* rood-loft,' and the stalls, but without the canopies, were set up between 1531 and 1535, as is proved by the occur- rence of the initials of Anne Boleyn, entwined with those of the king, in many places upon them. The chapel was probably first used for service in 1536, just ninety years after the first stone had been laid. Many changes had been introduced into the fabric during that long period ; the simple massiveness of the Founder's work, which he desired should " procede in large fourme, clene and substantial, laying a parte superfluite of to grete curious werkes of entaille and besy molding," is in strong contrast with the ob- King's College. ijy trusive heraldry that marks the portion constructed by Henry the Seventh and his executors. There, and in the glass above, his right to the crown, and the victory by which he won it, are again and again commemorated, with a frequency of repeti- tion that seems to betray the consciousness of usurpation. The dragon of Cadwallader, "the dragon of the great Pendragonship," and the greyhound of Cecilia Neville, wife of Richard, Duke of York, support the arms of England in each *' severy " of the ante-chapel ; the rose and the portcullis (his " altera securitas" as he termed it, intimating that as the portcullis was the second defence of a fortress when the gate was broken down, so he had a second claim to the crown through his mother, daughter of John de Beaufort, whose castle in Anjou was typified by this emblem of it) cling to the vaulting-shafts ; the antelopes of the Founder are associated indeed with his own magnificence, but only upon the external but- tresses ; while the red rose of Lancaster, the hawthorn bush, and the crown (alluding to the legend of the recovery of it on Bosworth Field), are profusely displayed in the tracery of the windows. In his son's work again the influence of those foreign workmen who were so largely introduced into England in that century, becomes apparent. The delicate arabesques in low relief, 13 178 Cambridge and the classic moldings of the screen, with the curious absence of all religious symbols in the profuse decoration that covers every part of it, are Italian rather than English. Unfortunately all record of its construction has been lost ; and it is only from internal evidence that we can guess at the history of what it is no exaggeration to say is the most beautiful piece of wood-work out of Italy. For some now unknown and much- to-De-regretted cause, the canopies of the stalls were not completed at the same time. It is supposed that the walls were hung with tapestry until Thomas Weaver gave the somewhat clumsy series of shields of arms, with the pilasters that separate them, in 1633. The present canopies were made in 1678, and the panel-work beyond them in 1679, by a Cambridge wood-carver, Cornelius Austin. The canopies are poor imita- tions of the older work, but the panels are excel- lent specimens of that period, and the artist who executed them deserves to be rescued from oblivion. The present reredos was put up by " the ingenious Mr. Essex," at the end of the last century (1770-75). It is an attempt to imitate Gothic work, meritorious in intention rather than successful. This is, however, the only serious deformity in the chapel. It seems as though the respect in Kings College. 179 which the Founder was held protected his works, and those erected in his name by his successors. No brush of paint has marred the beauty of the screen ; and even Puritan fanaticism spared the windows. The chapel is still, within and without, :he noblest structure ever raised for collegiate v^orship. Well might Wordsworth exclaim : "Tax not the royal saint with vain expense, With ill-matched aims the Architect who planned, Albeit labouring for a scanty band Of white-robed Scholars only this immense And glorious work of fine intelligence ! Give all thou canst ; high Heaven rejects the lore Of nicely-calculated less or more ; So deemed the man who fashioned for the sense These lofty pillars, spread that branching roof. Self-poised, and scooped into ten thousand cells. Where light and shade repose, where music dwells Lingering and wandering on as loth to die ; Ijke thoughts whose very sweetness yicldeth proof That they were born for immortality." No part of the Founder's design except the chapel was executed ; none, indeed, was begun except a portion of the eastern range of chambers. When Gibbs was employed in 1724, he designed a noble quadrangle in the classical style then in fashion, of which, however, the west side alone was built; and when the college was again enabled to resume the completion of the buildings in the i8o Cambridge. present century, they unfortunately were induced to employ Wilkins. That self-sufficient and ignorant architect, though he affected to build in a style which he dignified by the name of Gothic, discarded the Founder's plan, obliterated the toothings which then remained at the south-east corner of the chapel, and built towards the street a screen of open work, with a gate of entrance in the centre, consisting of a crowd of tall and meaningless pinnacles clustered round a central mass. It used to be appropriately nicknamed " The decanter and wine-glasses." Yet, so strange are the fluctuations in popular opinion, that when a short time since it was proposed to pull it down, and erect an appropriate building on its site, a great cry arose in its favour. It was all at once forgotten that by its erection the last hope had been lost of seeing the chapel as the Founder meant it should be seen, and that in itself it was mongrel and absurd. The epithets " gracious," *' beautiful," and many another laudatory term, were applied to it. The proposal was whirled away in a tempest of indignation, and the screen remains for the present, though let us hope not for ever, to inform one more generation at least how devoid of real architectural taste was the first quarter of the nineteenth century. Opposite to the chapel Wilkins erected a hall, with a pre- King's College. l8i tentious roof of plaster-work, an oriel in the middle, and the meaningless peculiarity of two lanterns, though, in justice to him, it should be mentioned that this last and crowning absurdity was forced upon him by the architects Nash and Wyatt, whom the College consulted, and com- pelled Wilkins to follow. Into the original use of these contrivances they did not care to inquire. Moreover, though any building at King's College must to a certain extent commemorate the Founder, Wilkins covered his work with emblems that commemorate only the Tudors, roses and port- cullises ! Lastly, he actually persuaded the Col- lege to allow him to " gothicize " Gibbs' beautiful work, for which remarkable achievement his design is extant, but lack of funds fortunately prevented such a disaster. No account of King's College would be com- plete without some narrative of the famous enter- tainment of Queen Elizabeth there, from Saturday, August 5th, to Thursday, August loth, 1564. The preparations for her visit had been long and costly, for even in the previous year the account f)r the expenses of the chapel is mainly filled with the items of expenditure for putting up the wooden theatre on which a play was to be re- presented before her. She herself resided in the Provost's Lodge, which then stood between the 1 82 Cambridge. east end of the chapel and the street ; some of her ladies were lodged in the Fellows' chambers, and her maids of honour at Caius College. Tem- porary kitchens were set up against the wall that divided the College from St. Austin's hostel, which stood nearly where the present Hall does. The south vestry of the chapel became her Council Chamber, the lower hall of the " Pro- vost's Place," as the lodge was termed, her Guard Chamber, and the room above it the Presence Chamber. The great officers of state were distributed among the other colleges. The whole University was present to attend her, but it is difficult to understand where they could have been themselves accommodated, so vast were the numbers of her retinue. There are several accounts of her visit, which enter minutely into the tedious ceremonies in which she apparently found pleasure. The fol- lowing description of what occurred is extracted from Baker's " History of St. John's College" : "The queen made her entrance on the 5th of August, by- Queens' College, where a large gate was hung cross the street from that college to the opposite house (now the printing-house), guarded by the queen's servants ; the two lanes near King's College were likewise barred up and guarded to keep out the crowd. All the passage from Queens' College to the west end of King's College chapel was lined with scholars ; the doctors stood nearest the chapel, Kings College. 183 the Vice-Chancellor, with the senior doctor and orator, upon the lowest step. Within the chapel (the inner part whereof was hung with tapestry and arras of the queen's) were the provost with his fellows in their copes, making a lane where she was to pass towards the choir. " Her majesty entered the town on horseback in a gown of black velvet pinked, a caul upon her head set with pearis and precious stones, with a hat spangled with gold and a bash of feathers, attended by Garter King-at-Arms with the other great officers of the crown, with other lords and ladies very numerous, the Chancellor riding near her, describing the order and degree and quality of the scholars ; and as she passed the scholars loudly proclaimed Viz'at Regi/ia, to which she often replied Gratias ago. " As soon as she came to the west end of the chapel, every one alighted from their horses except the queen, and there the Chancellor delivered up the staves, and the public orator, Mr. Master, kneeling down, made an oration, wherein, whilst he enlarged upon her majesty's praises, she ohen shook her head and bit her lips, and sometimes broke out in these expressions, non est z'eritas and uti?iafn ; but when he praised virginity, she commended the orator and bid him continue there. In conclusion, she gave him a just encomium, par- ticularly admiring his memory, as he well deserved that could go on half an hour without pause or hesitating, whilst the queen's horse was curvetting under her, and she herself making remarks upon the different periods of his speech. Then she alighted and advanced towards the chapel under a rich canopy supported by four of the principal doctors, when, after Te Demn begun by the provost and sung with the organ, and after evening song solemnly had, etc., she departed to her lodging, as she went thanking Crotl that had sent her to this University, where she was so received as she thought she could not be better. " Tlie next day being Sunday, Dr. Perne in his cope 184 Cambridge. preached a Latin sermon before her majesty in King's chapel upon this text, Ofrifiis anijna subdita sit, etc. About the midst of his sermon she sent the lord Hunsden to will him to put on his cap, which he did unto the end ; and after the sermon was over, ere he could get out of the pulpit, she signified to him by the Lord Chamberlain, that it was the first that ever she heard in Latin, and she thought she never should hear a better. " In the evening she heard prayers again in the chapel; and this day had been well spent, had not the conclusion been very different from the rest of the day. For the same day late and in the same place one of Plautus' comedies (his Aulularia) was acted before her by torches upon a stage erected in the chapel to that purpose, which she stayed out, though it held in acting till twelve o'clock at night. " It would be very tedious to give a narrative of the pro ceedings of the following days, and of the several acts and disputations held before her majesty. It was philosophy and divinity that she attended to most, and was best pleased with these performances. Mr. Bing the respondent in philosophy, acquitted himself well ; and it was then observed that as Mr. Cartwright, one of his opponents, expressed more heat, so Mr. Preston showed better manners, whom the queen took particular notice of and dubbed him her scholar. But no man acquitted himself so well as Mr. Hutton, the respondent in divinity, to the satisfaction and admiration of all his auditors ; and it was to that day that he owed his future preferments. The queen favoured him in her looks, her words, and actions ; and though Dr. Perne, one of his opponents, disputed upon him very warmly and very learnedly, yet he, that had given such content whilst he preached upon Omnis anima, etc., lost himself in the opinion of the queen for having touched too freely upon the power of excommunicating princes, though it were only by way of argument : so nice a thing it is to approach majesty upon Kings College. 185 any pretence or at any distance, especially where majesty is at its full height, as it then was ! " For, however it may have been since, it was then in this manner her majesty was received in our congregations or assemblies. At her entrance all men were upon the knee, nor did any one presume to rise till leave was given ; and after they were up, no one presumed to sit till leave was given the second time by an express allowance. The greatest peer, the Duke of Norfolk, and the greatest favourite, Robert Dudley, addressed her majesty upon the knee, as they then did, when they desired her to dismiss the University with an oration." The accounts printed by Nichols, in his " Pro- gresses of Queen Elizabeth," contain a few details that are worth quoting, in addition to Baker's more succinct version of what took place. When the public orator praised virginity, she, who prided herself on being the Semper Eadem^ exclaimed, " God's blessing of thyne heart ; there continue." Again, at the conclusion of the disputations in Great Saint Mary's Church, she made a Latin oration, in which she distinctly promised to emulate the example of those princes, her ances- tors, the monuments of whose piety she had been beholding : "My age," she said, "is not yet so far advanced; nor again is it so long since I began to reign, but that before I pay my last debt to nature (if cruel Atropos do not too soon cut the thread of my life), I may erect some passing good work. And from this design, so long as I have any life left, 1 8 6 Cambridge . I shall never depart. And if it should happen that I must die before I can complete this thing ; yet will I leave some famous monument behind me, whereby both my memory shall be renowned ; and I, by my example, may excite others to the like worthy actions ; and also make you all more ready to pursue your studies." When she spoke, pleased with the reception she had had, which she candidly admitted was " alto- gether against her expectation," she no doubt sincerely intended to found a new college, or further to endow an existing one. The University, however, heard no more of the royal benefactions. The stage, for the dramatic entertainment, was built right across the ante-chapel, at the west end, occupying " the breadth of the church from the one side to the other, that the chappels might serve for houses," that is, for dressing-rooms for the performers. In depth it was equal to the breadth of two chapels. The Queen sat on the south side, where " was hanged a cloth of state." The ladies and gentlewomen of the court stood on the rood-loft, or, as we call it, the organ-screen ; and the " choyce officers of the Court " on the steps under the same. The guard stood on the ground by the stage side, each man holding " in his hand a torch-staff, for the lights of the play." The performers were " certain selected persons, chosen out of all colleges of the town, at the discretion of Mr. Roger Kelke, D.D." VIII. St. John's College. Christ's College. THE position of the Hospital of St. John the Evangelist has been already described. Into the history of that foundation it would be beside our present purpose to enter. It will be sufficient to mention here that towards the end of the fifteenth century it began to fall into decay, both moral and material. The accusations that were brought against so many religious houses at that time were preferred against the brethren. Mr. Thomas Baker, the historian of St. John's College, tells us that " they were certainly very dissolute in their lives and prodigal in their expenses, not in charity and hospitality which they were obliged to by their rule and order, but in excess and riot, and in gratifying their own sinful lusts." A disorderly house, such as this, must have been of evil example in the University, and its suppression was only a t|uestion of time. About 1502, Dr. John Fisher, Master of Michael House, who, from the proxi- mity of his own college to the hospital, was in a 1 8 8 Cambridge. position to know, perhaps only too well, the state of affairs there, was made chaplain and confessor to the Lady Margaret, Countess of Richmond and Derby, mother of King Henry the Seventh. From the vantage-ground of that exalted position he set himself to compass the conversion of the hospital into a college under the patronage ot the Countess. He had probably no difficulty in interesting his mistress in the scheme. She had visited Cambridge in 1505, and again in 1506, on which occasions, no doubt, she had opportunities of learning by personal inspection the wants of the University. In May of the former year she had refounded the ancient educational establishment called God's House by the title of Christ's College, and endowed it, besides other possessions, with the Abbey of St. Mary of the Meadows {de pratis)^ at Creyke, in Norfolk. She had, therefore, herself set an example of utilising, in the direction of education, religious foundations for whose special objects the necessity was no longer recognised. Holding apart, as she did, by a wise abstention, from interference in affairs of state, she found a congenial occupation in the patronage of science and literature. Wynkyn de Worde, one of the most distinguished of our early printers, styled himself " Printer unto the moost excellent pryn- cesse my lady the kynge's moder." She had ^' The Lady Margaret. 191 instituted readerships in divinity in both Universi- ties which still perpetuate her name, and here in Cambridge she had founded a preachership as well. Though, as has been v^ell pointed out, *' her outw^ard existence belonged to the medieval past," and she lived almost the life of a nun of the most ascetic order, the acuteness of her intelligence led her to perceive that a new light had dawned upon the horizon ; that changes were not far distant in which any merely conventual foundations would perish, and any collegiate institutions would as certainly survive. In the previous century she would have founded a religious house, and perhaps have died as its Abbess ; in her own time she became the foundress of educational establishments of which we have possibly not yet seen the com- plete development. Her character was delineated by her devoted friend and counsellor, Bishop Fisher, in the com- memorative sermon preached by him after her death, in language which is as interesting as a specimen of the best English of the time, as for the picture it gives of the illustrious lady whom he knew and loved so well : "She was bounteous and lybcral to every person of her knowledge or acquaintance. Avarice and covctyse she most hated, and sorowcd it full mochc in all persons, but especially in ony that belong'd unto her. She was also of syngular 192 Cambridge. easyness to be spoken unto, and full curtayse answere she would make to all that came unto her. Of mcrvayllous gentvlcness she was unto all folks, but specially unto her owne, whom she trusted and loved ryghtc tenderly. Un- kynde she woldc not be unto no creature, ne forgetfull of ony kyndness or servycc done to her before, which is no lytel part of veray nobleness. She was not vengeable, ne cruell, but redy anone to forgete and to forgyve injuryes done unto her, at the lecst desyre or mocyon made unto her for the same. Mercyfull also and pyteous she was unto such as was grevyed and wrongfully troubled, and to them that were in poverty or sekeness or any other mysery. To God and to the Chirche full obedient and tractable, serchynge His honour and plesure full besyly. A wareness of her self she had alway to eschewe every thyng, that myght dishonest ony noble woman, or distayne her honour in ony condycyon. Fryvelous thyngs, that were lytell to be regarded, she wold let pass by, but the other that were of weyght and substance, wherein she might proufyte, she woldc not let for any payne or labour, to take upon hande. " All Englonde for her dethe had cause of wepynge. The poor creatures that were wonte to receyve her almes, to whom she was always pyteous and mercyfull ; the studentes of both the Unyversytees, to whom she was as a moder; all the learned men of Englonde, to whom she was a veray patroness ; all the vcrtuous and devoute pcrsones, to whom she was as a lovynge syster; ail the good relygyous men and women, whomc she so often was wonte to vysyte and com- forte ; all good preests and clercks, to whome she was a true dcfendresse ; all the noblemen and women, to whome she was a myrroure and cxamplcr of honoure ; all the comyn people of this realme, for whome she was in theyr causes a comyn medyatrycc, and toke right grete displeasure for them ; and generally the hole realm hathc cause to complayne and to morne her dethe." Sl John's College. 193 She died 29th of June, 1509,111 the midst of the rejoicings over her grandson's marriage and coro- nation. She was buried in Westminster Abbey, and Erasmus wrote her epitaph. Anxious as she had been to see her second college well established before her death, that gratification was not vouch- safed to her. The legal formalities necessary for the suppression of the Hospital were so tedious that it was not "utterly extinguished," as Baker calls it, till January 20, 1510 ; when it fell, as the same historian observes, " a lasting monument to all future ages, and to all charitable and religious foundations, not to neglect the rules or abuse the institutions of their founders, lest they fall under the same fate." The executors of the Lady Margaret, now that she was no longer present to lend her own powerful aid to the undertaking, had other and more serious diffi- culties to encounter, which need not be related here. However, they adhered firmly to their purpose, and were successful. The college was begun in or about 151 1, and the first court was carried on, without interruption, until it was com- pleted. The college was formally opened by Bishop Fisher, July 29, 15 16. The position of the court then erected was determined by one of the buildings of the Hospital, which was altered into a chapel for the new foundation, and formed H 194 Cambridge. the greater part of the north side. The west side contahied the hall, buttery, and kitchen ; the south side a range of chambers ; and the east side the library, with chambers beneath it. The Master's Lodge was placed in the angle between the north and west ranges, but a portion of it was prolonged into the north range, where a picturesque oriel window enabled the Master to command the court. Unfortunately it has now become impossible to realise the original aspect of this quadrangle, as preserved for us by Loggan. The south side was cased with stone in a pseudo- Italian style by Essex in 1772 ; and between 1862 and 1869, under the direction of Sir G. G. Scott, the hall was lengthened, the old chapel pulled down, and a new chapel, magnificent it is true, but singularly inappropriate both in style and design, was erected beyond the ancient^ limits of the quad- rangle. The beautiful gate of entrance, shown in our illustration, has happily survived these changes. It is of red brick with stone quoins. The lavish decoration of the space between the arch ajid the windows commemorates the foundress and" her son. The central shield, bearing the arms of England and France quarterly, is supported by the ante- lopes of Beaufort. Beneath it is a rose. To the right is a portcullis, to the left a rose, both crowned. Daisies, the particular emblem of the Gate of r/iffatue, St. JoJufs Cones;c J' I 0/1/ ,1 d/a-Mz/ig by II. J oz/ssa/ztt. SL John's College. laj Lady Margaret, are scattered over the whole com- position. They appear in the crown above the portcullis ; they cluster beneath the string-course ; and mixed with other flowers they form a ground- work to the heraldic devices. The statue of St. John in the central niche was carved in 1662, to replace an older statue removed during the Civil War. There is evidence that formerly the arms were emblazoned in gold and colours, and that the horns of the antelopes were gilt. The second court, a spacious quadrangle, con- siderably larger than the first, was commenced in 1598. The architect was Ralph Symons, whose work at Trinity has been already recorded, and the builder Gilbert Wigge of Cambridge. It was finished in 1 602 " in a manner," says Baker, " ruinous to the undertakers and not over advantageous to the College." It appears that Wigge got into pecuniary difficulties, and was imprisoned for debt during the progress of the work, the college having to release him from durance vile ; and further, that no inconsiderable part of the cost fell upon the Master and Fellows. Mary Cavendish, Countess of Shrewsbury, had originally under- taken to defray the entire cost, but she found herself unable to pay more than 2,j6o, instead of ^3,400, the amount of the contract. For some private reasons she wished that her share in the 198 Cambridge. work should remain unknown. Such attempts, however, whether in Hterature or in benefactions, are rarely successful, and her case was no exception to the general rule. After remarking that "she is justly entitled to the foundation of the whole, what she did being wholly owing to her favour, and what she left undone being owing to her misfortunes," the historian adds : "It is certain the secret was out before the building was up, and that both she and the lord her husband were known to be at the bottom of the design, though from a clause in the contract it seems to have been at first a secret, where the undertakers oblige themselves to leave room over the gate for such arms as the College should afterwards set up there, which are now the arms of Talbot and Cavendish," In Baker's time the building was thought to be " slight and crazy," and that it would " never live up to the age of the first court." These anticipa- tions have happily been falsified by the event. The second court has, in fact, suffered less than the first, and is still a beautiful specimen of the architecture of the period when It was erected. Secrecy seems to have been the rule in this college where buildings were concerned; for it was at- tempted with regard to the third court in much the same way, and with the same amount of success, as for the second. In 1617a new library was re- quired. Leave was obtained from the Countess of SL John's College. 199 Shrewsbury to build one " adjoining her ladyship's court," and the college set abou: collecting funds, but money came in slowly. Before the foundation had been laid, however, " an unknown person " came forward and offered ^1,200 to that use, if it were sufficient, " but would neither advance higher, nor yet was willing to admit a partner." As may be imagined, a donation clogged with such a condition as this caused considerable trouble ; but at last the " unknown person " gave way, and agreed to give about ^^250 more, with which the beautiful Library forming the north side of the third court was erected. The foundations of the west end are laid in the river, above which the lofty oriel rises. It is a singularly picturesque structure of red brick with stone dressings. The date, 1624, inscribed upon it in large figures of white stone, marks the completion of that portion of the building only, for it was not ready for the books until the spring of 1628. In the course of the tedious negotiations entailed by the strange conditions of the gift, the anonymous benefactor '* owned and declared him- self to be the founder." He turned out to be Dr. John Williams, Bishop of Lincoln, Lord Keeper of the Great Seal. The remaining two sides of this third court were not begun for rather more than half a century afterwards. The foundations were laid in 1669, and the whole completed in 200 Cambridge. four years; the expense being defrayed by numerous benefactors, this time not anonymous. By the time that those ranges of chambers were built the Gothic style had given way to the classical. Some attempt, however, was made to assimilate the new building to the old, and no want of harmony is perceptible. Our wood-cut shows the gate in the centre of the west side, a picturesque structure in three floors, recalling in its general outline the gates of Clare Hall. The need for still further accommodation at the beginning of the present century prompted the erection of yet a fourth court ; the Society recog- nising their obligation to retain their undergraduate members, as far as possible, within the precincts of the college. The shape of the ground eastward of the Cam seemed to preclude all chance of building in close proximity to the other courts ; and a site was selected on the left bank of the river opposite to the library. On this Mr. Rickman raised a lofty and pretentious structure, capable of accom- modating a great number of persons. There, however, its merits end. It should be mentioned in justification of the architect that the ground, which in the seventeenth century was occupied by a number of fish-ponds, as Loggan shows, offered such an insecure foundation that a large sum of money had to be spent upon concrete. Hence Gateway in the TJiird Court of St. JoJnis. From a ilra-vimr hv A. Bninet Dc-hainrf. Sl Johns College. 203 much that should have been executed in stone was worked in wood or plaster, and the portions out of sight are of plain white brick. The general design, however, shows that a thorough knowledge of the history and theory of architecture is not sufficient to make a practical architect. This court is joined to the older college by a very picturesque bridge in a Gothic style, usually spoken of as "The Bridge of Sighs," from a superficial resemblance to the so-called structure at Venice, by which its general outlines may have been suggested. Beyond the new court are the extensive gardens, on the western side of which is the delightful '^ Wilder- ness," where a narural profusion of wild flowers, overshadowed by lofty trees, contrasts agreeably with a carefully kept bowling-green. This is the spot commemorated by Wordsworth in " I'he Prelude," but his favourite tree is now no more. "All winter long, whenever free to choose, Did I by night frequent the College grove And tributary walks ; the last, and oft The only one, who had been lingering there Through hours of silence, till the porter's bell, A punctual follower on the stroke of nine, P.ang, with its blunt, unceremonious voice, Inexorable summons. Lofty elms, Inviting shades of opportune recess, Bestowed composure on a neighbourhood Unpcaccful in itself. A single tree, 204 Cambridge. With sinuous trunk, bouglis exquisitely wreathed, Grew there ; an ash, which Winter for himself Decked out with pride, and with outlandish grace : Up from the ground, and almost to the top, The trunk and every master-branch were green With clustering ivy, and the lightsome twigs The outer spray profusely tipped with seeds That hung in yellow tassels, while the air Stirred them, not voiceless. Often have 1 stood, Foot-bound, up-looking at this lovely tree Beneath a frosty moon. The hemisphere Of magic fiction verse of mine perchance May never tread ; but scarcely Spenser's self Could have more tranquil visions in his youth, Or could more bright appearances create Of human forms with superhuman powers. Than I beheld, loitering on calm clear nights, Alone, beneath this fairy-work of Earth." Wordsworth resided in this college from 1787 to 1 79 1. His rooms were in the first or entrance- court, as he tells us in the same poem : "The Evangelist Saint John my patron was : Three Gothic courts are his ; and in the first Was my abiding-place, a nook obscure. Right underneath, the college kitchens made A humming sound, less tuneable than bees. But hardly less industrious, with shrill notes Of sharp command and scolding intermixed." Like Byron, Wordsworth misunderstood the University, He came up with enthusiastic ideas, formed in lonely hours among the hills and dales Christ's College. lo^ of Westmoreland ; and when he found that those among whom he was thrown were not all that he had expected them to be, he laid the fault on the institutions, and not on the persons whose lives offended him. Hence he became careless of academic honours ; and is said to have passed the week before his degree in reading '* Clarissa Har- lowe " ; an action that would have been most prudent had he been ready for examination, but unprepared as he was, could be due only to indif- ference or to ostentation. Having spoken of the great college which the Lady Margaret was prevented by death from seeing in its completeness, let us say a few words about her first foundation Christ's College. It occupies the site of the Grammar College, called God's House, which was first placed near Clare Hall, as we have related in our account of King's College. The site being required by King Henry the Sixth, he allowed, and probably assisted, William Bingham the founder, to acquire a new site in what was then called Preachers' Street, after the Dominican Friars. It was intended that the Society should consist of a master, called Proctor, and twenty-four scholars. The revenues, how- ever, were insufficient ; and when the Lady Mar- garet's attention was drawn to it, the number of scholars was only four. She was influenced in her 2o6 Cambridge. action, if we may believe tradition, by her con- fessor, Bishop Fisher, who, on the same authority, had been a member of it when he first entered the University. Partly from her own resources, and partly through her influence with her son, she endowed it with sufficient revenues ; changed the name to Christ's College, " from her singular devotion to the name of Jesus Christ ; " gave to it a body of statutes, and lived to see the quadrangle completed. Part of the Master's Lodge she re- served to her own use, and may perhaps have even resided in it ; for Fuller says that she once came to the College " to behold it when partly built, and looking out of a window, saw the Dean call a faulty scholar to correction, to whom she said, ^ Lente, lente. Gently, gently !' as accounting it better to mitigate his punishment than procure his pardon." The old quadrangular arrangement may be traced in this college more easily than elsewhere behind the classical facing imposed upon the old walls in the last century. The chapel is on the north side; the east side contains the Master's lodge, and the hall; and the south and west sides are occupied by chambers. In the centre of the latter is a noble gateway, flanked by towers, and decorated with the arms and emblems of the foun- dress. The position of the lodge, between the hall and the chapel, illustrates well the ancient Christ's College. 207 arrangements for the convenience of the Head ; and an external turret-stair, Hke that at Peterhouse, The Gardcji of Chn'sfs College. From a dia^iniiii hy If. 'I'l'u^snint, may still be seen on the side next the garden. The beautiful building eastward of the older quadrangle 2o8 Cambridge. was completed about 1642. It is, of course, in the classical style of that period, and tradition re- cords that the architect was Inigo Jones. Whether this be true or not, the artist who designed it was unquestionably of first-rate ability, and he has produced one of the most admirable specimens of architecture in the University. The garden behind it, perhaps the most delightful of all the collegiate gardens of Cambridge, contains the aged mulberry- tree, its trunk protected by an embankment of earth, and its decrepit branches supported on wooden props, which an unvarying tradition asserts to have been planted by Milton. He resided here for seven years, from February, 1 625, to July, 1632. His rooms were on the left side of the court as it is entered from the street, the first-floor rooms on the first staircase on that side. They consist at present of a small study with two windows look- ing into the court, and a very small bedroom adjoining. They do not seem to have been altered since his time. His biographers, as is well known, have all recorded that his first tutor, Mr. Chappell, caused him to be flogged; and much has been written both to support and to discredit the story. The public correction of undergraduates had not then been given up ; for so late as 1649, Henry Stubbe, afterwards a writer of repute, was flogged in the Hall of Christ Church, Oxford. Christ's College. 209 for " insolent and pragmatical conduct." If true, it is at least remarkable that none of Milton's numerous enemies in after-years should have re- proached him with it ; and the language he uses in 1642 shows that he had come to think as lightly of it as men do now-a-days of " swishings " at school, and that his superiors also had not been slow to forget the conduct that led to it. "I acknowledge publicly," he says, '*with all grateful mind, that more than ordinary respect which I found, above any ot my equals, at the hands of those courteous and learned men, the Fellows of that College wherein I spent some years ; who, at my parting, after I had taken two degrees, as the manner is, signified many ways how much better it would content them that I would stay ; as by many letters full of kindness and loving respect, both before that time and long after, I was assured of their singular good affection towards me," 15 IX. College of St. Mary Magdalene. College and University Libraries. THE College of St. Mary Magdalene originated in two messuages granted by Henry VI. in 1428 to the Benedictine House of Croyland for the convenience of those monks who wished to study at Cambridge. Out of these messuages, or on their site, a house was gradually constructed for the general use of the Benedictine Order, ' dif- ferent monasteries building different portions ; thus Ely built one chamber, Walden a second, Ramsey a third," says Dr. Caius ; and so late as 1777 Cole saw the arms of Ely in the spandrels of the door at the north-west corner of the court. Gloucester College at Oxford, now Worcester College, was constructed in a precisely similar manner for the same Order. The chapel probably belongs to this period of the history of the house. It was at first called simply " The Monks' Hostel ; " but, before 1483, it had acquired the name of Buckingham Magdalene College. 2 1 1 College, from Henry Stafford, second Duke, who was beheaded by Richard III. in that year. The reason for its connection with him has not been recorded ; but it is evident that he had placed it under the patronage of his family, for his son, Edward Stafford, built the hall in 15 19. Bucking- ham College naturally ceased when the superior house, Croyland Abbey, surrendered to Henry VIII. in 1539 ; but the continuity was never sensibly broken, and within two years and a half it was refounded under its present name by Thomas, Lord Audley of Walden, to whom the King had granted it. He died suddenly in 1544, having probably made no change in the buildings, which evidently did not then form a complete quadrangle ; for we find the Duke of Norfolk, who had married the daughter and sole heiress of the founder, under- taking, in 1564, to pay '^ 40/. by year till they had builded the quadrant of their College." The College was probably completed, partly by his liberality, partly by that of Sir Christopher Wray, a subsequent benefactor, before the end of the sixteenth century. The main interest of Magdalene College at present is the possession of the library formed by Mr. Samuel Pepys, which is contained in a separate building beyond the quadrangle to the east. This was not built on purpose to contain it," as is gene- 2 1 2 Cambridge. rally supposed, but was approaching completion at the time when Pepys determined to bequeath his library either to Trinity College or to Magdalene College. The name of the architect, and the pre- cise date of the structure an extremely beautiful one, as our woodcut shows are unfortunately alike unknown. Regarding the disposition of his library, Pepys committed to writing, as part of his Will, what he modestly terms his " present thoughts and inclinations " in the matter, among which, after stating that he prefers a private college to the Public Library of the University, and Magdalene College to Trinity College, " for the sake of my own and nephew's education therein," he expresses a wish " that a fair roome be provided on purpose for it, and wholely and solely appropriated thereto ; and if in Magdalen, that it be in the new building there, and any part thereof, at my nephew's selec- tion." There accordingly it is now deposited, and the name " Bibliotheca Pepysiana " has been in- scribed on the front of the building, according to his desire, together with his motto, " Mens cujusque is est quisque^' and the date 1724, when the death of his nephew, Mr. Jackson, put the College in possession of the bequest. Pepys had begun his life at Cambridge as an undergraduate in 1650. He had been entered at Trinity, but, before his residence commenced there, ViiUhl J wU I Magdalene College. 215 had removed to Magdalene. He does not appear to have ever taken a degree, and, perhaps, did not stay Jong at the University. Throughout his busy life, however, he preserved a warm affection for Cambridge, and for his own college in particular, which he frequently visited, as his amusing diary records. The last time that he came there, during the period of the diary, was in May, i668, of which visit he has left the following characteristic description : " Here lighting [at Cambridge], I took my boy and two brothers, and walked to Magdalene College: and there into the butterys, as a stranger, and there drank my belly- full of their beer, which pleased me, as the best I ever drank : and hear by the butler's man, who was son to Goody Mulliner over against the College, that we used to buy. stewed prunes of, concerning the College and persons in it ; and find very icw, only Mr. HoUins and Pechcll, I think, that were of my time. Thence, giving the fellow something, away walked to Chesterton, to see our old walk, and there into the Church, the bells ringing, and saw the place I used to sit in, and so to the ferry, and ferried over to the other side, and walked with great pleasure, the river being mighty high by Barnewell Abbey : and so by Jesus College to the town, and so to our quarters, and to supper." The collection is a very interesting one, not only from the intrinsic value of the books, pamphlets, maps, various illustrations of naval matters at that day, and a vast mass of fugitive contemporary literature, such as broadsides, 2 1 6 Cambridge. placards, street ballads, and the like, in- dispensable to the historian or antiquary engaged in the investigation of the troublous times in which Pepys lived ; but also from the fact that most of the volumes are in the bindings of his time, and are still in the very bookcases of mahogany, glazed, in which they were placed by him in 1666. Pepys records the arrival of his bookcases, on August 24th in that year, with much enthusiasm : " Up, and despatched several businesses at home in the morning, and then comes Simpson to set up my other new presses for my books ; and so he and I fell to the furnishing of my new closett, and talcing out the things out of my old; and I kept him with me all day, and he dined with me, and so all the afternoone, till it v/as quite darke, hanging things, that is, my maps, and pictures, and draughts, and setting up my books, and as much as we could do, to my most extra- ordinary satisfaction ; so that I think it will be as noble a closett as any man hath, and light enough, though, indeed, it would be better to have had a little more light." Many subsequent entries record the almost childish pleasure he derived from this new arrangement, and the solace he found, in the midst of many distracting cares, from cataloguing and ticketing his books. The diary does not say anything about the way in which he got them together. He does not exult, as most bibliomaniacs do, over the acquisition of each College Libraries. 217 new treasure. He only speaks generally, in the document quoted above, of " the infinite pains, and time, and cost employed in my collecting, methodising, and reducing the same to the state it now is." The mention of the Pepysian Library suggests a few remarks on other similar repositories for books in the colleges and university. At first the stock of books, or rather manuscripts, in a college was so scanty, that a chest or two in the muniment-room or chapel was probably sufficient for their accommodation. As soon, however, as the college system had definitely taken root, we find the acquisition of books recorded, and a library taking its place in every quadrangle. The erection of that of Peterhouse, in 1 43 1, has been already mentioned. It occupied, originally, nearly the whole of the western side of the principal court, and must have been an excellent specimen of a medieval library. These libraries were usually long, narrow, and rather low rooms, lighted by numerous windows in the side-walls, which were placed tolerably near together, and at no great height above the floor. There was also a sinfde and larger window at one or both ends. This arrangement was dictated by the necessity for affording ample light to the readers ; for 2 1 8 Cambridge. the more valuable books, or perhaps all those of which there was only a single copy, were not allowed to be taken out by any one, and for greater security were attached by iron chains to a bar fixed in front of the shelves. It was therefore necessary, especially in college libraries, where readers might be expected to be numerous, to provide facilities for consulting a large number of books at the same time. On this account medieval libraries are usually far larger than would be expected fVom the number of books contained in each of them. The bookcases projected from the wall between each pair of windows, and usually consisted of only one shelf, raised three or four feet above the ground. Between each pair of bookcases there was a bench to accommodate the reader, directly in front of the window. The books stood with rheir leaves turned outwards instead of their backs as at the present day, and the titles were written in ink across the closed leaves. The chains were usually attached to the left-hand cover, so that they did not get in the reader's way, and they were sufficiently long to enable him to take down the volume he wanted to consult, and place it on his knees, or on a desk immediately under the shelf on which the volumes stood. Where there was more than College Libraries. 219 one shelf the chains belonging to the upper shelf were, of course, longer than those belong- ing to the lower one. It was part of the duty of a librarian, in those days, to see that the chains did not get tangled. One ot these ancient libraries exists almost un- Trinity Hidl Librciry. altered at Merton College, Oxford. The seats are still there, and the sii^gle shelf, though altered to suit modern re juirements, can easily be made mit. Another, equally curious, is to be seen at Trinity Hall, Cambridge. It is not so ancient, dating only from the early part of the 2 20 Cambridge. reign of Queen Elizabeth, but it has been even lessed ahered, and is one of the most quaintly picturesque rooms in the University. The book- cases offer the peculiarity of a desk, at the top, placed just so high that a student had his choice of placing his book upon it and standing to read it, or of sitting in the more usual way. The earliest bookcases were plain even to rudeness, being made of strong thick planks roughly nailed together ; but gradually ornamentation was ad- mitted, and some of the bookcases set up in the seventeenth century are richly carved and deco- rated. After the invention of printing, the number of books had of course increased, and the practice of chaining, though not abandoned, was no longer universal. From the earliest times certain volumes had been reserved for the use of the Fellows, and were distributed annually among them. The statutes in some colleges prescribe minutely the assignment of these books. They were to be brought back once a-year, and their condition examined, after which they were re-distributed, but the same book was not to be assigned a second time to the same person, and so forth. By this system the libraries became gradually divided into what was called an outer and an inner library. The former contained the books that might be taken out, the latter the College Libraries. 221 more valuable ones that could only be consulted in the building itself. These remained chained down to the end of the last century in many instances. The increase in the number of volumes, however, had caused an alteration in the shape and arrangement of the bookcases. It was impossible any longer to afford the space required by the old system. First the seat between the windows was removed, and replaced by a low bookcase. Then the space under the window was utilised, and so the libraries became subdivided into classes, and the books were sorted according to their subject. The seat for the reader was attached to the lowest shelf, on which he sat with his back to the books a far less comfortable arrangement for him than the old one had been. When chaining went completely out of f^ishion, the seat was taken away, and replaced by a low plinth. The end of the seat, however, survived in many cases as a piece of rich carving, shaped like a wing, of which there is an excellent example in the old library of Pembroke College, fitted up in 1690, possibly from the design of Sir Christopher Wren, who had designed the new chapel, after which the old chapel was utilised for the purpose of a library. In Trinity College we have a splendid and undoubted specimen of Wren's taste and skill 222 Cambridge. in designing woodwork. Chaining was, of course, Carving in Trinity Colle.^^ :^..-i..,_.. no longer used for libraries newly built at that time, and he desia;ned his bookcases Carving in Trinity College Library. without reference to it. They are placed at College Library. 223 right angles to the walls, but the sills of the windows are so high that other cases, parallel to the walls, join those at right angles to them, so that the library is divided into a series of compartments of noble proportions, each fitted with a table and desk (also designed by him) for convenience of study. The cases are of Norway oak, classical in style, to suit the build- ing ; and they are ornamented with cherubs' heads, and wreaths of flowers, leaves, and fruit, in lime-wood, by the celebrated Grinling Gibbons. We figure two of the heads, and one of the most characteristic of the wreaths of fruit and foliage. The University was slow in acquiring public buildings of its own, and the Common Library, as a building, did not come into existence before the middle of the fifteenth century, though Dr. Richard Holme's bequest of books, some of which yet remain, dates from 1424. The portion set apart for books was then the first floor of the south side of the quadrangle. Two lists of books one made about 1435, ^'^^ ^^^ other dated 1473 have fortunately been pre- served. On the latter, a former librarian, Mr. Bradshaw, after indicating various points of interest, made the following remarks : "A still more interesting point in the list of 1473 is that it shows us the books arranged in classes, with stalls on the 224 Cambridge. north side looking into the quadrangle, and desks on the south side looking out towards the then rising chapel of King's College; and we are able to form some judgment of the relative importance of the different studies of the place from noticing the classes allotted to each subject. Our historians are very fond of telling us that the libraries of the later middle ages were choked with the writings of the schoolmen, that the Bible and the earlier fathers of the Church had been supplanted by Petrus Lombardus and his commentators. A glance at the arrangement of the Uni- versity library in 1473 will show how false this assumption is, and a cursory examination of the history of most of our libraries will show that the great bulk of scholastic writers were added to our collections by the benefactors of the seventeenth century, when facts shew that these subjects were very deeply studied, though it is not always convenient for those writers to remember it who seek to depreciate as contemptible everything that was studied before the Refor- mation. The last four classes on each side of the room were devoted to Theology, represented by the Bible text and the leading commentators, St. Augustine, St. Jerome, the Glossa Ordinaria, Cardinal Hugo, Nicholas de Lyra, and others. One class only, next to the preceding, was set apart for Tkeologia disputata, the Master of the Sentences and his expositors. The next three on the same side were devoted to Canon Law; and the remaining class on the same side to Civil Law. On the north side, after the four classes allotted to Theology, Moral Philosophy, Natural Philosophy, and Medicine had each one stall, and the remaining one was given to Logic and Grammar, including, besides, such books as Ovid's Metamorphoses, Lucan, and Claudian." It would be beyond our purpose and our limits to attempt a history of the University Library University Library. 225 an enterprise which would require a volume rather than an essay. We have been led to mention it merely on account of its connection with the life and studies of the place, on which we shall shortly have occasion to speak at greater length. Unfortunately, at Cambridge we have no such voluminous annals as the Bodleian has, and few volumes which go back to a remote antiquity. The hatred of the old literature prevalent in the reign of Edward the Sixth caused the destruction of the library of that day as rubbish or worse, and in the last century books were stolen out of the building wholesale. The statement sounds incredible, but is nevertheless literally true, that between 1715 and 1750 the pillage was so unlimited that the only wonder is that any valu- able books have been left. The neglect of libraries during the first half of the eighteenth century was almost universal. A learned German, Zachary Conrad von Uffenbach, who visited Cam- bridge in 1 7 10, gives a deplorable though amusing picture of the state of things he witnessed. At Caius College, for instance, the librarian was not to be found, and all the books that were to be seen were in a miserable attic, haunted by pigeons, and so dusty that the visitor was forced to take off his ruffles before he could examme them. The University Library was not quite so neglected 16 226 Cambridge. as that ; nor were the librarians so needy as one of those at the Bodleian, who had to be " per- suaded " by the donation of a guinea before he would show certain manuscripts ! Our traveller, however, found the printed books " very ill arranged, in utter confusion, and could not see the manuscripts on account of the absence of the librarian. Dr. Laughton, which vexed me not a little," he says, " as Dr. Ferrari (his guide) highly extolled his great learning and courtesy, rara avis in his terris." On a future visit, he not only succeeded in seeing the coveted volumes, but, as one that interested him " was torn at the end, the beadle or library-keeper, who was present, gave me a leaf, which I took with me as a curiosity." Soon after Uffenbach's visit the Cambridge Library received the great accession of books from which its present importance may be said to date the library of Dr. John Moore, Bishop of Ely, containing thirty thousand volumes, which was purchased in 1715 by King George the First for _^6,ooo, and given to the University at the suggestion, it is said, of Lord Townshend. The University had presented a loyal address to his Majesty, which had given him so much pleasure that he selected this substantial method of testi- fying his approbation and goodwill. Oxford had taken a different view of the political situation, University Library. 227 and when the library was sent to Cambridge the following epigram appeared : "King George, observing with judicious eyes The state of both his Universities, To Oxford sent a troop of horse ; and why? That learned body wanted loyalty. To Cambridge books he sent, as well discerning How much that loyal body wanted learning." Cambridge was not slow in publishing an answer, written by Sir Thomas Browne, the founder of the prize for epigrams : "The King to Oxford sent a troop of horse. For Tories know no argument but force ; With equal skill, to Cambridge books he sent. For Whigs admit no force but argument." Additional space was required for so large an addition ; and it was therefore determined, in 1722, to build a new Senate House, so as to set free for books the old meeting-place of the University, then called the Regent House, now the Catalogue Room of the Library. The present Senate House having been completed (in 1730), it was thought desirable to alter the Library, so as to provide still further accommodation, and to make it correspond in style with the Senate House. To effect this, the picturesque fi^ade, built by Bishop Rotherham about 1475, was ruthlessly 228 Cambridge. ciragged down (in 1754), and replaced by the present east room, with the whole classical faf^'ade. The central gateway alone was saved from destruc- tion by the then possessor of Madingley Hall, where it is still used as the entrance to the stables. X. Gonvllle and Caius College. ^ueens^ College. Emmanuel College WE must now go back in chronological order, and mention one of the most beautiful and celebrated colleges in the University that, namely, which owes its present designation to the great English physician of the sixteenth century. Dr. Caius. Since his time it has been specially devoted to the study of medicine. It was founded originally on a different site, and by a different person. In 1348 Edward the Third granted his license to Edmund Gonevill (as the name is there spelt), rector of Terrington, in Norfolk, to found a college of twenty scholars, who were to be in- structed " in dialectic and other sciences," on a site that he selected in a street called Lurte- burghlane. This site, of no great extent, stood behind the churchyard of St. Botolph, at the north-east corner of what is now Corpus Christi College. The founder proposed to call his college 230 Cambridge. " The Hall of the Annunciation of the Blessed Virgin ; " but so long a title being found incon- venient, it soon became popularly known as Gonville Hall. Three years after the foundation Gonville died, and bequeathed his college to the care of William Bateman, Bishop of Norwich, who was himself engaged at the same time in establishing his own college of Trinity Hall, which he had founded in 1350, for scholars in Canon and Civil Law. One of his first acts was to remove his friend's college to a. site nearer to his own, where extension would be less difficult. This removal took place in 1353. The old site became the orchard of Corpus Christi College, and Gonville's scholars, partly by altering two large houses belonging respectively to John de Cambridge and John Goldcorne which occupied no inconsiderable portion of their new site partly by building (through the contributions of various benefactors), established themselves in what is now the inner court of Gonville and Caius College. The Italian taste of the last century has hidden away the picturesque medieval structures that were still to be seen in 1688 : and a casual visitor will find it hard to believe that the old college is there, hidden away under the modern facing. Such, however, is the case, and a few years since, when a new window was being Caius College. 231 put into the Combination Room, one of the quaint two-light windows of the fourteenth century was exposed to view, in a tolerably perfect condition. Gonville's scholars remained content with this narrow site, and apparently made no attempt at enlarging it for two centuries. On September 4, 1557, it was refounded as Gonville and Caius College, by Dr. John Keys, better known under the Latinised form Caius ; since which time, to use Fuller's language, " as in the conjunction of two Roman Consuls, Bibulus and Caius Julius Caesar, the former was eclipsed by the lustre of the latter ; so this his namesake Caius hath in some sort obscured his partner, carrying away the name of the College in common discourse." The second founder had passed his undergraduate days in the older college, where he had obtained the degree of Bachelor of Arts in 1533 ; after which he became Principal of Physwick Hostel, a small educational establishment affiliated to Gonville Hall ; and apparently continued to reside in Cambridge until 1539. This makes his " Historv of the University," notwithstanding many errors, so valuable a record for the beginning of the sixteenth century. There is good reason for believing that at first he turned his attention to divinity ; but his foreign travels, and his studies in Italian Universities, diverted him to 232 Cambridge. medicine, to which he devoted himself steadily for the rest of his life. On leaving Cambridge he took up his abode in the University of Padua, where he gave lectures on the Greek language, and obtained the degree of Doctor of Medicine in 1 54 1. During a portion of his residence in that University he occupied the same house as the cele- brated Andre Vesale better known by his Latin name Vesalius the first of those great anatomists who braved popular prejudice, and insisted on the importance of the dissection of the human body as the basis of all medical and surgical knowledge. On leaving Padua he travelled through Italy, visiting the most famous cities, and especially searching their libraries for manuscripts of the ancient authors on medicine. In 1544, he re- turned to England, and practised as a physician at Cambridge, Shrewsbury, and London, where he was appointed physician to Edward the Sixth, and afterwards to Queen Mary and Queen Eliza- beth. He became President of the College of Physicians in 1555, an office which he retained for five years. Previous to his election he had been in the habit of delivering lectures on anatomy for the benefit of the surgeons of London the fruit, doubtless, of his Italian studies and personal intercourse with Vesalius. He must, therefore, have been a very prominent Caius College. 233 person in the medical world a circumstance that will sufficiently account for the use that Shake- speare has made of his name when he wished to introduce a physician into the " Merry Wives of Windsor," without any necessity for supposing that direct reference to him was intended by the poet. The comedy, moreover, may be dated 1 60 1, twenty-eight years after the death of Caius ; who, besides, was not a Frenchman as there repre- sented, but the son of English parents, and born and bred at Norwich. His return to his college as co-founder and generous benefactor for it was part of his scheme to found and endow fellowships and scholarships was naturally succeeded by his elevation to the Mastership (January 24, 1559) a dignity which he accepted with reluctance, and the emoluments of which he systematically declined. These he generously expended on new buildings, of which he laid the first stone on the west side of the court that was afterwards called Caius Court, 5th of May, 1565, at four o'clock in the morning. His object in founding his college afresh was the promotion of sound learning. The inscription on the foundation-stone summed up these inten- tions in four significant words : " Johannes Caius posuit sapienti^e*' with a solemn prayer that all v/ho dwelt therein might be virtuous, learned, and 234 Cambridge. patriotic. It may at first sight appear strange that he should have allowed six years to elapse between his acceptance of the Mastership and the com- mencement of the buildings. Probably the intervening period was spent in acquiring the site, and in storing up materials. This forethought will account for the short time occupied in the actual construction, for the last stone is stated by himself in his " Annals," of which the manuscript is preserved in the college, to have been laid on the first day of September, just four months after the work had been begun. The eastern side of the quadrangle was taken in hand soon afterwards, and probably finished with equal rapidity, but its progress is not so minutely recorded. The design of the buildings erected by Dr. Caius is stated, according to college tradition, to have been brought by him from Padua. The agreeable notion, however, that while he was living abroad he was thinking of his college and planning its extension, is unsupported by any evidence whatever. He was at Padua, as we have seen, in 1541, eighteen years before he was made master of his college, and twenty-four years before he began to build. How could he have " so fore- cast the years " as to imagine his future elevation to wealth and position .? Again, the design is not Italian, either in conception or in style. The Gilie of Virtue (it Cains Collci:^?. I'toiii a drawins; !>y H. Toussnint Caius College. 237 buildings of the University at Padua, which he might have thought of imitating, and with which he must, of course, have been familiar, for they were built by Sansovino or Palladio about 1493, are totally different from those he afterwards erected. They are built round a court, in a heavy, classical style, with a profusion of shafts, cornices, and battlements ; whereas the design of Dr. Caius, as our illustration of his Gate of Virtue shows, is thoroughly Gothic in general plan and outline, with only a subtle touch of the Renais- sance here and there in a molding or a detail. It is just possible that the inscription on the founda- tion-stone, and the words of the prayer uttered by Dr. Caius at the ceremony, may have been suggested by the inscription on the entrance to the University at Padua, in which the same thoughts are expressed : " Sic ingredere ut te if so quotidie doctior^ sic egredere ut indies fatrice Christian ce que reipublica utilior evadasT The words are difficult to translate literally, but the general sense is, " So enter that thou may est become daily more learned than thou hast been ; so leave that day by day thou mayest become more useful to thy country and to Christendom.'' The arrangement of the Caius Court two parallel ranges of buildings connected on the south by nothing more substantial than a wall of 238 Cambridge. moderate height with a gate in the centre was certainly dictated by sanitary considerations, and therefore was probably his own, for in his thirtieth statute he directs that the south side is never to be enclosed, " for fear the air should become foul." The symbolism which governed the names he gave to the gates is English of the days of Elizabeth rather than Italian. The college was to be entered from the outer street through a low postern called the Gate of Humility. In this spirit the student was to pass aloi:ig a stately avenue of trees till he reached the lofty and beautiful Gate of Virtue. This is sometimes called the Gate of Wisdom, because the inscription on the foundation-stone given above has been inscribed in later times on its western facade. In the spandrils of the arch, through which the Caius Court would be entered, are figures of angels, bearing the one a wreath and a palm, the other a cornucopia and a purse : emblems of the gifts that Virtue has in store for those who follow her. Lastly, the gate by which the college would be left on the south side was called the " Gate of Honour," because it led to the schools in which University honours were conferred . This last, the design of which is directly attributed to Dr. Caius in the " Annals " as con- tinued by his successor in the Mastership, though Norlh Side of the Gate of Honour^ Cains College. I' rotii a ilraiuin^ by II Toiissaint. Cat us College. 241 not built until after his death, is much more classical in feeling than any other building in the college. It consists of a square mass, enriched with fluted columns bearing pediments, above which rises a hexagonal superstructure, originally ornamented with numerous shafts, pinnacles, and dials. Unfortunately, it was built of very perish- able stone, and the delicate carvings are fast crumbling away. Among the decorations were the heraldic cognisances of the Doctor, the quaint symbolism of which must be stated in the words of the original grant, which confers upon "John Caius, gentleman, and his postcrite, thcis Amies and creste with thappertenances as here aftre followith ; that is to say, gold scraycd with flowrc gentle, in the myddle of the cheyfe scngrene resting vppon the heades of ij scrpcntcs in pale, their tayles knytt together, all in propre color, rest ingc vppon a square marble stone vert, betwenc theire brestes a boke sable, garnyshed gewles, buckles gold, and to his crest vpon thclmc a dove argent, bekyd, and membred gewles, holding in his bcke by the stalke flowrc gentle in propre colour, stalked verte, set on a wreth golde and gewles, man- telled gewles, lyned argent, buttoned golde." Of this elaborate device the grant vouchsafes the following explanation. It should be premised that " sengrene " is house-leek, and " flower gentle " amaranth. " Betokening by the boke Lerning, by the two Scrpcntes resting vpon the stjuare Marble Stone, Wisdomc with grace 17 24 2 Cambridge. founded and stayed vpon vertues stable stone ; by sengrcne and flower gentle Immortalite that neucr shall fade ; as though thus I shulde say, Ex prudetitia et Uteris, virtutis pctra firmatis, iaunnrtalitas ; that is to say. By wisdomc and Icrniiig, grafted in grace and vertue men come to Immortality." Dr. Cams died July 29, 1573. He was buried in the chapel, under an elaborate altar-tomb, about which he had himself given directions some three weeks before his death. The two sentences inscribed on it by his friends, " Vivit -post funera Virtus " and " Fui Caius" are simple and beauti- ful. In 17 19 his grave was opened, and the following striking description was written by an eye-witness : "This brings to my mind what I saw about a.d. 1719, in Caius College Chapel. I remember that when they were then repairing and beautifying that Chapel, ye workmen had broke a hole either by accident or design into Dr. Caius' grave, wch was a hollow place lin'd with brick on ye north side of ye Chapel at a little distance from his monument wen is a mural one. The lid of ye coffin was oft' when I look'd in with a candle fixed in a long cleft stick wch ye workmen turnish'd me with and with wch I cou'd survey ye sepulchre very easily. The sides of ye coffin were remaining, tho' in a disjoynted and rotten condition. The body seem'd to have been a very lusty one, and ye coffin was pretty full of it; the filcsh was of a yellowish black colour, and yielded to ye least touch of ye stick and fell to pieces. The eyes were sunk deep into their sockets. A long grey beard much like that wch we sec in y*^ picture ot him, only this was grown very rough by long time ; I think it was then about 145 years Cuius College. 243 from ye time of his death. I touch'd his beard with ye stick and turn'd it a little on one side ; it accordingly lay on one side, having lost all manner of elasticity : I therefore brought it back to its right place again. The sight occasion'd in me serious reflections, and I went away with such a regard as I thought due to ye memory of so considerable a mann as Dr. Caius had been." We have seen how earnest Dr. Caius had been in imparting medical knowledge to others, and how firmly he held to the importance of a knowledge of anatomy as a principle of medical study. He was a travelled man, too, an accomplish- ment rare in that age, and his intercourse with foreign men of science might have imparted to him ideas less narrow than those which had hitherto governed the colleges of Cambridge. Yet his statutes are in no way an improvement upon those of his predecessors. He makes no attempt to found a scientific college on broad principles, the main lines of which would have been suitable to all time. It is true that he obtained a royal license to allow dissection of the human body ; but his statute headed " Anatomia" is principally occupied with directions about burying the body after dissection in St. Michael's Churchyard with due reverence. Of the thirteen Fellowships, only two are to be held by medical men ; but in this particular he may have felt himself fettered by his predecessor, Bishop Hateman, for he regarded three 244 Cambridge. only of the Fellows as peculiarly his own. His own third Fellow, however, is to be a theologian. The study of medicine is inculcated in only one statute, and in it no better system is suggested than disputations in the college chapel ; a course which, unless very careful precautions are taken, and preliminary examinations are held, may easily degenerate into a barren recurrence of question and answer, such as Moliere has so mercilessly ridiculed in his " Malade Imaginaire." The rest of the hun- dred and seven chapters into which this curious code is divided are occupied with minute directions for regulating the daily life of the students, the care of the buildings, and the management of the estates matters which might well have been left to the good sense of the officers of the college. For instance, it is gravely prescribed that no member of the college is to enter a tavern more than twice a-year ; no one is to presume to set foot on the leaden roof of the Gate of Virtue, except to repair it; the other gates are to be opened and shut at stated hours ; the rents of the estates are never to be diminished or increased, and so forth. But we must not linger any longer over this interesting subject, for we have something to say about Queens' College. The history of the foundation has been already recounted. The buildings of the principal quad- ^eens College. 247 rangle were at once put in hand, and completed by the end of 1448 or the beginnhig of 1449. They are built of red brick, in a simple style that recalls the earlier portions of Eton College, The quad- rangle is entered through a massive gateway in two stories, flanked by octagonal towers ; and there are square towers at each external angle. The east and south sides are occupied by rooms, the north side by the chapel and library, and the west side by the hall, kitchen, and other offices. This portion of the college retains its ancient aspect more thoroughly than any other in the University. Beyond the principal court is a smaller one, extend- ing to the river. A picturesque building in red brick, probably coeval with the rest, extends along the river bank, with a cloister on the side next the court. Cloisters also extend along the north and south sides, with the intention, no doubt, of pro- viding a passage dry-shod from the rest of the college to the western building. Over the north cloister is the wooden gallery of the President's Lodge a singularly beautiful specimen of that usual appendage to a sixteenth-century house, and quite unaltered. There are three picturesque oriels on either side, not placed op[)Osite to each other, as a modern architect wcjuld infdlibly have constructed them, but alternately, so that the whole space within is equally well lighted. In former days the 248 Cambridge. oriels rose above the roof, with diminishing stages of lead-work, crowned by iron vanes of excellent design. These ornaments, alas ! have been swept away ; and it was only by accident that the gallery itself escaped destruction, for in the last century " the ingenious Mr. Essex " was employed to construct what was then called a " new and elegant " building along the west front. He began at the south angle, and having erected a mon- strously ugly range of chambers along Silver Street, proceeded to do likewise along the river- side. He pulled down some thirty feet of the old work, and would have destroyed the whole had funds been forthcoming. But fortunately they ran short, and the Lodge was saved. It was in this college that the celebrated Erasmus resided during part, at least, of the time that he spent in Cambridge. " Queens' Colledge," says Fuller, " accounteth it no small credit there- unto that Erasmus (who. no doubt might have pickt and chose what House he pleased) preferred this for the place of his study for some years in Cambridge. Either invited thither with the fame of the learning and love of his friend Bishop Fisher, then Master thereof, or allured with the situation of this Colledge so near the River (as Rotterdam his native place to the Sea), with plea- sant walks thereabouts." His memory is per- ^eens College. 249 petuated by a walk on the west side of the Cam called Erasmus' Walk ; and his study, high up in the tower at the south-west angle of the court, is 'Ike Lodi^c of (2'i ecus' Collci^e. Still pointed out. The following curious passage, written, it is true, nearly a century and a half after- wards, but by a bellow of the College who could 2 5^ Cambridge. hardly have been misinformed, pleasantly describes the traditional belief : "The staircs which rise up to his studie at Oueens' College in Cambr. doe bring into two of the fairest chambers in the ancient building ; in one of them, which lookes into the hall and chief court, the Vice-President kept in my time; in that adjoyning, it was my fortune to be, when fellow. The chambers over arc good lodgeing roomes ; and to one of them is a square turret adjoyning, in the upper part of which is the study of Erasmus ; and over it leads. To that belongs the best prospect about the colledge, viz. upon the river, into the corne-fields, and countrey adjoyning. So y' it might very well consist with the civility of the House to that great man (who was no fellow, and I think stayed not long there) to let him have that study. His sleeping-rome might be either the Vice- President's, or, to be neer to him, the next. The room for his servitor that above it, and through it he might goe to that studie, which for the height and neatncsse and prospect, might easily take his pliancy." There are some amusing allusions in his letters to his discomforts, which appear to have been much the same as those commonly experienced by foreigners in a strange country. The climate, the drink, the encouragem.ent he met with in his lectures, are all subjects for grumbling. " I can- not go out of doors for the plague," he says, writing to a friend in 1510; "I am beset with thieves, and the wine is no better than vinegar." Again, in August, 151 1, we read, "I shall stay Emmanuel College. 25 1 some days at least in this college. I have not as yet submitted myself to an audience, for I am anxious to take care of my health first. I do not like the ale of this place at all, nor are the wines particularly palatable. If you could manage to send me a cask of Greek wine, the very best that can be bought, you would be doing your friend a great kindness, but mind that it be not too sweet." The wine evidently came, and was of the proper quality, for in October following he writes, " I am sending you back your cask, which I have kept by me longer than I otherwise should have done, that I might enjoy the perfume at least of Greek wine. My expenses here are monstrous, and not a farthing to be gained. 1 have been here not quite five months, and yet have spent sixty nobles ; while certain members of my class have presented me with just a single one, which they had much difficulty in persuadirig me to accept." Notwithstanding all these draw- backs, however, which are very likely exaggerated for his friend's amusement, he stayed at Cambridge for upwards of seven years, giving lectures in Greek and Theology. In the next place we must say a few words about Emmanuel College, of which we have figured a small portion. It was mentioned in a previous article that the site chosen for it was that 252 Cambridge. of the Convent of the Black Friars, or Friars Preachers. They were dispossessed by King Henry VIII. ; but for some reason, now unknown, their buildings escaped the destruction that fell on those of the Carmelites and Franciscans ; and when Sir Walter Mildmay obtained possession of them forty years afterwards, his architect, Ralph Symons, was able to adapt some of them to collegiate purposes with hardly any alteration. This College, and Sidney Sussex College, founded in 1594 by the will of the Lady Francis Sidney, Countess of Sussex, on the site of the Franciscan house, are the first Protestant foundations. Sir Walter was himself a staunch Puritan, and Queen Elizabeth is reported to have said to him, " Sir Walter, I hear that you have erected a Puritan foundation." " No, Madam," he replied ; " far be it from me to countenance anything contrary to your established laws ; but I have set an acorn, which, when it becomes an oak, God alone knows what will be the fruit thereof." The charter granted to him by the Oueen is dated nth of January, 1584. Therein his foundation is described as " a College of Theology, Science, Philosophy, and Literature, for the extension of the pure Gospel of Christ our only Mediator, to the honour and glory of Almighty God " ; and in the preface to his Statutes he refers to the Emmanuel College. 255 " schools of the prophets " mentioned in the Old Testament, to the learning that St. Paul had acquired at the feet of Gamaliel, and to the incessant watchings of the Levites in the Temple, as parallels to the learning that should be stored up, and the watchfulness that should be displayed, in order to extirpate Papistical heresies and diffuse the true Gospel of Christianity. The principles of the founder were encouraged so well by his immediate successors that, in 1629, Archbishop Laud described Emmanuel College as a nursery of Puritanism ; and during the Commonwealth no less than eleven of the Heads of Colleges im- posed by those in authority were selected from Emmanuel. Evelyn, who visited Cambridge in 1654, speaks of it as "that zealous house"; and in later days it is referred to as " the pure house of Enmianuel." The view of Emmanuel College in Loggan's work shows buildings so different from the present ones, that were it not for the chapel it would be difficult to recognise their identity. In 1688 the entrance to the College was in Emmanuel Street, through a small court, open to the north. From this the principal coint was entered, of which the west side, where the gate of entrance now is, was occupied by chambers. It is probable that these were contrived out of part of 2^6 Cambridge. the conventual buildings. The Hall, as now, was on the north side, and a range of chambers, called " The Founder's Range," was on the south side. The building called " The Brick Building," at right angles to this of which a small portion is shown in our illustration was begun in 1633, and is an excellent specimen of the style of that period. The chapel, with the cloisters by which it is joined to the north and south sides of the quadrangle, is due to the energy of Dr. Bancroft, Master from 1662 to 1665, who afterwards, when Archbishop of Canterbury, became famous as the author of the petition of the seven Bishops against the Declaration of King James II. The architect was Sir Christopher Wren. He evidently borrowed the general idea of the composition from Peterhouse. The space over the cloister, however, serves at Emmanuel the double purpose of a passage for the Master to the chapel, and of a picture-gallery in connection with the Lodge an original feature, due, in all probability, to the ingenuity of Wren. In his first design he intended to build the chapel and cloister in red brick, with stone dressings, the effect of which would have been far more picturesque than the uniform stonework which was substituted for it. The reasons for the alteration have not been recorded. The " Founder's Range " was rebuilt The Setiate House ajid JJjih'crsity Liliraiy. l'. NIGHTS WITH AN OLD GUNNER, and other Studies of Wild Life. With Sixteen Illustrations. 6i-. " Cannot fail to be interesting; to any lover of wild nature. The illustrations are numerous and e.xcellent." Pu// Mall Gazelle. ANIMALS AT WORK AND PLAY: Their Emotions and Activities. Illustrated from Photographs by Gambikr Boi.TON, F.Z.S., and others, and from Drawings. Second Edition. 6s. "Such a book as Mr. Cornish's shows how much tliere is to repay the intellitjcnt observer of Xature." Tiiiiei. WILD ENGLAND OF TO DAY, and the Wild Life in It. Illustrated from Original Drawings by L.\.nci:i.OT Si'EED, and from Photogiajihs. 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