UC-NBLr 226 ccriri tin BiiHii : iiliil II - - ! ' ' . ' '' ; ;j - .',;.'. Hi B8B ' CO CU 4-> <+H O 're (U o 'a A STUDY OF FOODS BY RUTH A. WARDALL, M.A. HEAD OF DEPARTMENT OF HOME ECONOMICS STATE UNIVERSITY OF IOWA AND EDNA NOBLE WHITE, A.B. HEAD OF DEPARTMENT OF HOME ECONOMICS OHIO STATE UNIVERSITY >:. :: GINN AND COMPANY BOSTON NEW YORK CHICAGO LONDON COPYRIGHT, 1914, BY RUTH A. WARDALL AND EDNA NOBLE WHITE ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 414.7 t C ft * * ...* . c / , - . , o ./. , fc ' . c ( , * *%" Tgftc GINN ANM) COMPANY PRO- PRIETORS BOSTON U.S.A. PREFACE This volume is intended to present the subject of foods in a simple, concise manner. The preparation of food which is suggested in the book is in every case an illus- tration of some one or more principles involved and pre- viously discussed. The object of this work is not to provide training for a finished cook, for skill comes only with experience and practice ; neither is there an attempt to make a food expert. A serious consideration of the subjects of chemistry, the physiology of digestion, and dietetics belongs to a university course. It is hoped that the work outlined will give some knowledge of food materials, of the effects of heat upon them, of methods of manipulation, and of comparative cost of commercial and domestic prod- ucts. The increased cost of living makes especially desir- able a study of food values and the cost of food from different sources. In schools where courses in chemistry, physiology, and physics are offered, there are many opportunities for cor- relation with the food work, which will at once suggest themselves to the well-trained teacher. The reference lists at the close of each chapter will be found very help- ful for classes, as well as for clubs who use this book as a guide. The preparation of food suggested in the text could easily be managed in the home and results discussed and compared later. 304742 vi A STUDY OF FOODS The food principles, or nutrients, form the basis of the arrangement of the work, but the cost of food is especially emphasized. No attempt has been made to divide the work into separate lessons, and the subject matter may be amplified or abbreviated, according to the need. Sug- gested lists for reference are given, and it is hoped that these will be liberally used, for there has been no attempt to make this a complete text ; it is intended only as a guide to the study of the subject of foods. Questions and exer- cises are frequently suggested for the use of the pupil, and these should be recorded in the notebook. Grateful acknowledgment should be made to Professor Henry C. Sherman for suggestions and assistance and to Mr. A. D. Emmett and L. D. Hall of the Illinois Agricultural Experiment Station for the use of the photo- graphs of meat and the descriptive matter accompanying them. RUTH A. WARDALL EDNA N. WHITE CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE I. FOOD I II. WATER u III. FRUITS AND GREEN VEGETABLES 15 IV. PRESERVATION OF FRUIT AND VEGETABLES ... 22 V. SUGAR 31 VI. STARCH 37 VII. POTATOES 40 VIII. CEREALS AND CEREAL PRODUCTS 43 IX. DRIED LEGUMES 51 X. MILK 54 XI. EGGS 61 XII. CHEESE 65 XIII. MEAT 68 XIV. FISH AND OYSTERS 81 XV. GELATIN 87 XVI. FATS AND OILS. . 90 XVII. FLOUR 94 XVIII. FLOUR MIXTURES 99 XIX. BREAD 108 XX. FOOD REQUIREMENTS 120 XXI. SELECTION OF FOOD 129 XXII. SERVING MEALS 135 APPENDIX I FOOD STANDARDS 139 APPENDIX II RETAIL CUTS OF BEEF 143 INDEX 171 vn > ' \ ' . >>''' ' > I . t> 1 1 1 > A STUDY OF FOODS CHAPTER I FOOD Food, as defined in Farmers' Bulletin No. 142, "is that which, taken into the body, builds tissue or yields energy." While the supply of building material and energy are two important functions, there is a third purpose served by food in the regulation of certain important processes in the body. Sherman says : ' Upon the presence of the so-called inorganic elements also depend such important matters as the alkalinity or neutrality and coagulability of the blood, the acidity or alkalinity of the digestive juices, the solvent power and osmotic pressure of the body fluids, the elasticity and irritability of muscle and nerve. They also tend to protect the body against harmful substances by combining with them to form compounds which are less toxic or more readily eliminated. These latter functions are perhaps regulatory rather than structural and are hardly suggested by the term 'tissue building.' In order to give them proper prominence it may be necessary to expand the usual definition of the function of food (that it yields energy and builds tissue) into one of three divisions h according to which the functions of food are 1 . To yield energy. 2. To furnish building material. 3. To regulate body processes. 2 A STUDY OF FOODS The energy of the food furnishes power for internal work, as in respiration, digestion, and other body proc- esses, as well as for external work, - - when the muscles are brought into activity, - - as in running, digging, or any other form of exercise. When the energy of the food is changed into energy for body use, heat is given off in somewhat the same way that heat results when the energy of the coal is changed into energy for the engine. Under ordinary conditions the heat resulting from energy transformation keeps the body at a comfort- able temperature, but where a great deal of energy is needed, as in a brisk walk or in active muscular work, the amount of heat is greater and frequently causes discom- fort. In case of little or no exercise and a cold day, it may be necessary to transform energy for the sake of keeping the body warm. Building material must be avail- able to the body, for there is constant wear and tear of tissues in all, and development of tissue - - or growth - in the young. While foods present a great variety in appearance and flavor, it is found on chemical analysis that they are made up of compounds which may be divided into five general groups : water, mineral matter, protein, fat, and carbohy- drate. All five of these nutrients are found in some foods ; usually one or two are present in much greater quantity than the others, so that we value some foods for protein, some for fat, carbohydrate, or mineral content. Eggs and meat are valued especially for protein ; butter and nuts, for fat ; potatoes and rice, for carbohydrate in the form of starch. Flour is valued for carbohydrate and protein ; green vegetables and fresh fruits, for water and mineral FOOD 3 matter ; cheese, for fat and protein ; and milk is unique in that it contains all the nutrients, or food principles. Our foods are derived from both the plant and animal kingdoms. All the nutrients are abundant in either king- dom, with the exception of the carbohydrates, which occur mainly in plant foods. Protein, mineral matter, and water are frequently classed as tissue builders. Water and mineral matter are found in all the body tissues, and protein is found principally in muscular and glandular tissues. Mineral matter, in addi- tion to its function of building tissue, plays an important role in the regulation of body processes, as before stated. Fats and carbohydrates yield energy, and, to a considerable extent, one may take the place of the other for this pur- pose. While protein is the only one of the nutrients which can build certain body tissues, it may also serve the function of an energy yielder. The same chemical elements which are found in the body are found in the food which is necessary to growth and maintenance of life. The wise selection of food is based upon a consideration of its composition, its ease and completeness of digestion, its cost, and palatability. CARBOHYDRATES The carbohydrates consist of a group of substances closely related chemically, although differing in appear- ance and taste. The well-known carbohydrates are sugars, starches, and cellulose. The carbohydrates are found in the plant kingdom with very few exceptions, such as lac- tose in milk and glycogen in the body. Starch occurs more abundantly in vegetables than in fruits, and sugar 4 A STUDY OF FOODS is found in both. A woody substance, cellulose, forms the framework of the plant. Cellulose is a food for the lower animals, but not for man ; however, it is commonly eaten by man, and because of its bulk it is an aid in digestion. Starch and sugar are both valuable human foods ; they do not build the tissues of the body, but they furnish energy. Since plant foods are less expensive than animal foods, the carbohydrates are generally less expensive than proteins and fats. FATS There are many substances chemically related which are known as fats. Those which are liquids at ordinary temperatures are called oils. F'ats, like carbohydrates, yield energy and are frequently stored in considerable quantity in the body. Weight for weight, the fats yield two and a quarter times the energy that carbohydrates or proteins do. Fats are highly concentrated foods and are obtained from both plant and animal sources. The common animal sources are cream, butter, and fat of meat, and the common vegetable fats are olive oil, cottonseed oil, and the fat of nuts. F*at from most sources is expensive. We use fats not only as food but also as a medium for cooking. PROTEINS The term ' protein ' includes a group of substances chemically related, and all containing nitrogen, although not all substances containing nitrogen are proteins. The chemistry of the proteins is very difficult and will not be discussed here. Some of the well-known members of the protein family are gluten of wheat, albumen of egg and meat, casein of milk, legumin of peas and beans. FOOD 5 Protein is derived from both plant and animal sources. Some plant foods rich in protein are wheat, corn, oats, peas, beans, peanuts, lentils, and nuts. The animal sources of proteins are meat, milk, eggs, and cheese. Plant foods are cheaper than animal foods, and consequently they are a cheaper source of protein. . Protein, like fat and carbohydrate, may serve as a source of energy to the body, but it differs from these in that it also builds tissue. Although protein is very necessary in the diet, it should not be eaten in too great quantities, for certain ills may attend its excessive use. Heavy eating, and particularly heavy eating of meat, may easily furnish more protein than is desirable, and it is believed that meat protein may cause more harm than other proteins. WATER Water furnishes the fluid necessary for the body and enters into the composition of all the tissues. Approxi- mately two thirds of the weight of the body is water, con- sequently the supply must be liberal. All foods contain water ; fruits, green vegetables, and milk are especially high in water content, but the body needs more than occurs in the food, and water should be freely used as a beverage. MINERAL MATTER The body contains several pounds of mineral matter, the bulk of which is in the bones and teeth. Some mineral salts are in solution in the body fluids, and some are found in other body tissues. Mineral matter occurs in practically all our foods, both animal and plant, but it varies in amount 6 A STUDY OF FOODS and kind. While a freely chosen, normal diet may contain enough mineral matter to supply the demands of the body, it is not always in the form or amounts needed. Knowledge of the composition of food leads physicians to prescribe certain diets for people who show a lack of some mineral constituent. Fruit and vegetables are especially valued for their mineral content. The outer coats of the cereal grains, so often discarded, are also rich in mineral matter. Care is necessary, especially with children, to provide foods supplying mineral matter. PREPARATION OF F'OOD Some foods are eaten in the natural (or raw) state, but much of our food is cooked. Cooking means the applica- tion of heat to food. It makes it more attractive in appear- ance, more palatable, and destroys any living organisms which may be present. In the case of foods eaten in the raw state, such as lettuce, celery, and fruits, very thorough cleansing is necessary. One should be accurately informed as to the condition of milk which is used in the raw state, for it frequently is the carrier of disease germs. Methods of cooking and degree of heat vary with the nature of the food. The temperature and method of cooking should vary as fat, protein, or carbohydrate predominates in the food. LABORATORY EXERCISES I. Laboratory and Equipment Examine desks, list equipment, and carefully note arrange- ment of utensils in the desk. If general supply cupboards are used by pupils, examine and note contents. FOOD 7 The following abbreviations are used throughout the book : (J L III J s.s salt-spoon t teaspoon T tablespoon II. Measurements Compressible materials, such as flour and powdered sugar, should be sifted before measuring, and lightly filled into the measure without packing. Heap all dry materials into the meas- uring cup or spoon, and level with the edge of a knife. Measure a half spoonful by dividing lengthwise. A measure of liquid means all that the cup or spoon will hold. 1. Answer the following questions by measuring with sugar; with flour ; with water : How many t in i T ? % How many c in i Ib. ? How many T in i c ? How many c in i pt. ? 2. Repeat measurements for a check. Compare results with others in class and account for differences. Is the measure responsible in all cases ? III. Weights 1. Determine, by avoirdupois system, weight of i c flour i c water i c sugar i c lard 2. Compare weight of i c of unsifted flour with i c of flour sifted once, twice, and three times. 3. Compute weights of the above in the metric system. NOTE, i pound = 453.6 grams: i ounce = 28.36 grams. 4. From above data compute number of cups of flour, sugar, water, and lard in i Ib. avoirdupois. 8 A STUDY OF FOODS TEMPERATURES Heat is always used in cooking food, but it may be applied in a number of dif- ferent ways. Varying degrees of heat may be employed in -the cooking of food by using hot or boiling water, steam, hot fat, or hot air in the oven. THERMOMETER SCALES The difference between freezing and boiling temperatures is marked by 100 degrees on the centigrade scale and by 1 80 degrees on the Fahrenheit scale. The THE CENTIGRADE ratio between the two scales is IOO : 180, AND FAHRENHEIT or 5 : 9. The freezing point is OC. and SCALES 32F. To change from one scale to the other use the following formulas : |C+ 3 2 = F, |(F- 3 2)=C. -17.78 DEMONSTRATION BY TEACHER A. High Temperatures 1. Note and record room temperature by centigrade ther- mometer. 2. Note and record boiling point of water. 3. Note and record temperature of steam just above boiling water. 4. Note and record temperature of steam in a covered kettle. 5. Note and record temperature of water in the covered top of a double boiler when the water below is boiling. FOOD 9 6. Oven temperatures. By noting time required to brown white paper, test the oven at the following temperatures : 150; 200; 250. 7. Fat temperatures. a. Note condition of a piece of bread one minute after it is dropped into fat which is at the temperature of boiling water. b. Note temperature of fat in which bread is browned : in one minute ; in forty seconds. B. Low Temperatures Low temperatures are used in the household for preservation of food and in the preparation of frozen dishes. 1 . What is the temperature of ice ? 2. What is the temperature of a mixture of ice and salt ? 3. Does the proportion of ice to salt affect the temperature of the mixture ? FUELS The usual source of heat for cooking is furnished by coal, wood, gas, gasoline, and kerosene. Electricity is a very desirable, but usually a very expensive, source. The cost of fuel must be considered a part of the cost of our food, and should be added to the cost of raw food materials. By planning, it is possible to economize in our use of these fuels. For example, when the oven of a coal or wood range is in use, the top of the stove is hot and may also be in use ; and a gas burner need not be turned on full in order to keep water boiling. If a gas meter is attached to a range, it will be observed that there is quite a difference in the gas consumed when the burner is partially opened and when it is turned on to the fullest extent. 10 A STUDY OF FOODS GENERAL EXERCISES Convert recorded temperatures to Fahrenheit scale. What is the lowest temperature in the above demonstration ? When would you use this in cooking? When would you use the highest temperature in cooking ? Suggest different dishes which might be prepared at the other temperatures. What ways of applying heat to food are suggested in the above demonstrations ? Which medium is most commonly used ? What is the source of heat used in preparation of food in a fireless cooker? In what way does the modern fireless cooker differ from the old " hay-box " ? Is the hay-box or fireless cooker of any service in keeping things cool ? Is a fireless cooker an aid to economy in fuel ? Suggest other ways of reducing cost of fuel in preparing food. From the data and experience that you have, discuss the various fuels from the viewpoint of cost, desirability, and convenience. Examine and operate all stoves and other heating devices found in the laboratory. References ATWATER. " Principles of Nutrition and Nutritive Value of Food," Farmers' Bulletin No. 142, U.S. Department of Agriculture. HUTCHISON. Food and Dietetics, chap. i. HOUGH and SEDGWICK. The Human Mechanism. JORDAN. Principles of Human Nutrition. SHERMAN. Chemistry of Food and Nutrition. WILEY. Foods and their Adulteration. NORTON. Food and Dietetics. ATWATER and BRYANT. " The Chemical Composition of American Food Materials," Bulletin No. 28, Office of Experiment Stations, U.S. Department of Agriculture. LANGWORTHY. "Ash Constituents of the Food," Journal of Home Economics, February, 1910. MURLIN. Tigerstedt's Text Book of Physiology. HILL. Recent Advances in Physiology and Biochemistry, chap. x. BEVIER and VAN METER. Selection and Preparation of Food Laboratory Guide. CHAPTER II WATER Generally speaking, water is either hard or soft, de- pending on the mineral substances which it carries in solu- tion. Rain water as stored in the ordinary cistern is the softest water available to the household. Well, river, and spring water vary greatly in the materials in solution, and consequently vary greatly in degree of hardness. Boiling will sometimes bring about changes which tend to soften water. Doubtless all have observed the lime deposit in the teakettle. Other causes of hardness can be removed only by the use of chemicals. Cities some- times use chemicals on a large scale to soften water for use. In a small way the same thing is done in the household when baking soda is added to the water for cooking beans, or lye is added to water which is to be used in cleaning. While hardness of water is a matter of importance to the household, there is another far more important con- sideration. A safe water is one which does not contain disease germs or any substances injurious to health. A number of diseases are carried by water ; typhoid fever and dysentery are among the common ones. The appearance of typhoid fever should lead to an immediate investigation of water and milk supply. The typhoid fever record of a city is a fair index of the safety of its water. Water may be clear and sparkling and yet be very dangerous. Surface wells are very easily contaminated and there is always risk ii 12 A STUDY OF FOODS in using water from such wells. Deep, driven wells are less liable to contamination, but their safety is not assured. Generally speaking, a municipal water supply is preferable to the ordinary well, because it is apt to be more carefully watched. The surety of a safe water supply is a moral obligation which all should feel. If there is any doubt about it, the water should be boiled. The household filters ordinarily seen are worse than useless, and often a real menace because they frequently become breeding places for germs. Directions from a board of health to boil water should never be neglected. As said before, a liberal supply of water is needed for the body fluids and to remove waste. Water is used as a bever- age, either alone or flavored with other substances. It is used also as an agent in the preparation of food. Hot water is a very common medium for the cooking of food, and in tea, lemonade, and other mixtures, water serves as a carrier of flavor. LABORATORY EXERCISES WATER AS A MEDIUM FOR FOODS AND FLAVORS I. Lemonade i lemon 3 T sugar i c cold water \ c boiling water Wash lemon and grate a small portion of yellow rind. Add boiling water to sugar and grated rind. To this add cold water and juice of lemon. Chill and serve. II. Fruit Punch i c cold water iJT lemon juice J Jc sugar Jc chopped pineapple \ c orange juice WATER I 3 Boil water, sugar, and pineapple several minutes ; cool, add fruit juice, strain, and dilute with ice water. Other fruit juices could be substituted for any of these. Lemon juice is necessary with almost any fruit. III. I^emon Ice 2 c sugar i c lemon juice i c boiling water 3 c cold water Make a sirup of sugar and hot water. Add the rest of the water and then the fruit juices. For variation add ^ t vanilla, juice of an orange, or other fruit juice. Freeze. IV. Sherbet To i qt. of lemon or other ice add the beaten white of i egg, when the mixture begins to freeze. i c freshly boiling water it tea Scald the teapot. Pour water over the tea in the teapot. Let tea stand 2 or 3 minutes in a hot place, and serve. Never boil tea. Compare the beverages made from green tea, from black tea, and from a mixture of the two. VI. Coffee 1 . ic freshly boiling water 2 T ground coffee mixed with i T cold water Pour boiling water over the moistened coffee in the coffee- pot. Boil up once, simmer 4 or 5 minutes, and let stand in a hot place for from 5 to 10 minutes. 2 . ic cold water 2 T ground coffee Pour water over coffee in the coffeepot. Bring to boiling point, and then simmer for 2 minutes. Stand in a hot place for from 5 to 10 minutes. 14 A STUDY OF FOODS A small amount of white of egg may be stirred in after the coffee has boiled, to aid in settling the grounds. Long cooking of coffee not only impairs the fine flavor but extracts undesirable substances. Compare the beverages made from coffees of different kinds and grades as to desirability and cost. GENERAL EXERCISES Calculate the cost of a cup of black coffee ; the cost of a cup of coffee with sugar and cream. Determine source of home and of school water supply. Is lemonade a valuable food? Explain. Calculate the cost of a glass of lemonade. Why use freshly boiling water for tea and coffee? Are tea and coffee valuable as foods? Are there any objections to their use? References ELLIOTT. Household Hygiene, pp. 90-113. PRICE. Handbook on Sanitation, chaps, v, vi. RICHARDS and WOODMAN. Air, Water, and Food, chaps, v, vi. SEDGWICK. Principles of Sanitary Science, chaps, ix, x. SHERMAN". Chemistry of Food and Nutrition, chaps, ix, x. HOUGH and SEDGWICK. The Human Mechanism. HUTCHISON. Food and Dietetics. LANGWORTHY. " Cereal Substitutes for Coffee," Bulletin No. 122, U.S. Department of Agriculture. CHAPTER III FRUITS AND GREEN VEGETABLES FRUITS Fruits are largely composed of water. Many of the fresh fruits contain from 80 to 90 per cent of water. Dates, figs, and raisins are fruits from which the water has been evaporated, and consequently they are concentrated foods. Peaches, apricots, apples, and prunes are dried in order to preserve them, but the water is restored when they are prepared for eating, and they resemble other cooked fruits in composition. The banana owes its food value largely to the starch it contains, while a number of fruits, especially grapes and pineapples, are valued for sugar. The acids and minerals occurring in fruits give them an important place in the diet. The woody fiber which forms the frame- work of the fruit is a carbohydrate called cellulose, which adds bulk to the food and stimulates peristalsis. Fruit is frequently valued as an appetizer, and the water content and bulk make it a desirable addition to the diet, although for actual nutrients fruits are expensive. Canned fruit has a greater food value due to the addition of sugar. The cooking of fruit changes the flavor, cooks starch if present, softens the cellulose, and in the case of dried fruits restores the water lost. It is important that the juice be served with the cooked fruit so that the mineral salts may not be lost. 15 U. 8. Department of Agriculture Office of Experiment Stations A. C. True: Director Prepared by c. F. LANG WORTHY Expert in Charge of Nutrition Investigations COMPOSITION OF FOOD MATERIALS Protein Fat Carbohydrates Ash Water Fuel Value 1. Sq.Tn. Equals 1000 Calories APPLE EDIBLE PORTION Water: 84.6. Carbohydrates: 14.2 Protein: 4.3 Protein: 0.4 Fat: 0.5 Carbohydrates: 74.2 Fuel value: Ash: 0.3 285 calories per pound DRIED FIG EDIBLE PORTION /Water: 18.8 Fat: 0.3 Ash: 2.4 1435 calories per pound BANANA EDIBLE PORTION STRAWBERRY EDIBLE PORTION Water: 00. Fat: 0. Carbohydrates: 7.4 Water: 75. 3 Protein: 1.0 Ash: 0.6 Carbohydrates: 22.0 Fuel value: 175 calories per pound Protein: 1.3 Fat: 0.0 Fuel value: Ash: 0.8 445 calories per pcund FRESH AND DRIED FRUITS 16 FRUITS AND GREEN VEGETABLES I? GREEN VEGETABLES Various parts of plants are used as food. The stem of asparagus, leaves of the spinach, flower of the cauliflower, root of the beet, fruit of beans and tomatoes, are eaten. Many green vegetables are grown and valued for their variety in flavor, their bulk, and their mineral salts. Green vegetables, like fruits, are conspicuously high in water ; lettuce, cucumbers, and celery, for example, are about 95 per cent water. Cellulose forms the framework of the green vegetables. Minerals occur in all, sugar and starch in some. In cooking strong-juiced vegetables, such as onions and cabbage, a large amount of water is used ; and in vegetables valued for sugar and other soluble materials, as corn, peas, carrots, etc., it is best to use the smallest amount of water that is possible. LA li( >A\-1 TORY EXERCISES I. Canned Green Vegetables Open the can and empty at once. The flavor is usually im- proved by allowing the vegetables to stand for an hour or more exposed to the air. The majority of the canned green vegetables are palatable when simply seasoned with butter, pepper, and salt, and heated ; or they may be served with cream sauce. II. Baked Apples Select sound apples, preferably tart ones. Wash and core, place in a shallow pan, fill centers with sugar, or a mixture of sugar and cinnamon, cover the bottom of the pan with water. Bake in a moderate oven until apples are easily pierced with a fork. If the oven is very hot, cover with a pan or baste apples frequently with the sirup in bottom of pan. U. 8- Department of Agriculture Office of Experiment Stations A. C. True: Director Prepared by C. F. LANGWORTHY Expert In Charge of Nutrition Investigations COMPOSITION OF FOOD MATERIALS Protein Fat Carbohydrate* Aeh Water Fuel Value 1. Sq.In. Equals 1000 Calories Fuel yalue: 295 calories per pound ONION Wate:-87.6 Protein: L6. Carbohydrates: 9.9 Water: 83.0 Protein: 1.6 ^ Fat: 0.6 Carbohydrate*: 13.6 Fuel value: I Fat: 0.3 Ash: 0.6 220 calories per pound CELERY POTATO Protein: 2.2 Fat: 0.1 Water:-94. Ash: 1.0 Carbohydrates: 18.4 "Water: 78.3 Fuel value: Fuel value! C 375 calories per pound Protein: 1.1 Carbohydrates: 3.4 Ash: 1.0 ,11111 iimiiuitiiiitiiit 80 calories per pound ROOTS AND SUCCULENT VEGETABLES 18 FRUITS AND GREEN VEGETABLES 19 III. Stewed Prunes Select good prunes, sort, and wash. Cover with water and soak several hours or overnight ; then slowly cook in the same water until plump and smooth and the stones will easily slip out. A little lemon juice or sugar may be added. IV. Creamed Onions Cook onions in a large amount of boiling water in an un- covered kettle, and change water two or three times. Cook until tender ; drain, and reheat in white sauce. V. Escaloped Cabbage Cook cabbage in boiling, salted water, changing water two or three times ; do not overcook. Arrange in baking dish alter- nate layers of cabbage and cream sauce. Cover with buttered crumbs and brown in oven. VI. Glazed Swtrf /'<>t2f> calories per pound Ash: 2.0 Fuel value: OAT Fat :f..n Ash: 3.0 Water: 11.0 -Protein. 11.8 1696 calories per pound RICE Water. 12.C Protein: 8.0 Carbohydrates: 69.2 Fat: 1.5 Fuel value: Carbohydrates: 73.0 RYE Carbohydiates: 77.0 Water: 10.3 -Fat: 2.0 Ash: 1.0 Protein: 12.2 i: 1.9 Fuel value: 1070 calories per pound Fuel value: 1C20 calories per pound 1620 calorie* per pound CEREAL GRAINS 49 U. S. Department of Agriculture Office of Experiment Stations A. C. True: Director ^Prepared by C. T. LANGWORTHY Expert in .Charge of Nutrition Investigations COMPOSITION OF FOOD MATERIALS Protein Fat ICarbohydrates Ash Water Fuel Value 1. Sq.ln. Equals 1000 Calories SHELLED BEAN, FRESH ,-Water: 58.9 Fat: O.G Carbohydrates: 29.1 Erotein: 9. Ash: 2.0 Fuel value: NAVY BEAN, DRY -Water: 12.6 -Fat: 1.8 Ash: 3.5 Fuel value: 720 calories per pound 1560 calories per pound STRING BEAN, GREEN Carbohydrates: 7. Water: 89.2 "Water: J.5.; Protein; 2.3 Fuel value: I 100 calories per pound CORN, GREEN EDIBLE PORTION Carbohydrates: 19.7 Ash: 0.7 4CO calories per pound -Fat: 1.1 LEGUMES AND CORN 5 CHAPTER IX DRIED LEGUMES Not many vegetables are dried, but legumes - - such as beans, peas, lentils, and peanuts- -are kept in the dry state for use during the whole year. These dried leg- umes, naturally, have a very low percentage of water. They are high in protein and contain some starch. Pea- nuts are high in fat. In some households corn is dried, and it makes a very acceptable product. Commercially, other vegetables have been dried, but the result is not altogether satisfactory. The legumes are not only high in food value, but they are inexpensive, make a very good substitute for meat, and add variety to the diet. The wide use of legumes by certain races, and by those engaged in hard labor, such as lumbermen, bears evidence to the fact that their food value is high. A little care bestowed upon the prepara- tion of the legumes will result in very palatable dishes, the use of which should be encouraged both from a die- tetic and an economic viewpoint. The removal of the hulls of beans and peas will frequently prevent the dis- comfort which sometimes follows the eating of them. If the water used in cooking is very hard, a little soda should be added. Time should be allowed for soaking these dried foods, and they should be cooked until they are thoroughly softened. 52 A STUDY OF FOODS LABORATORY EXERCISES I. Baked Beans Soak 40 beans overnight in cold water. In the morning add fresh cold water and cook slowly until the skins begin to burst. Pour off water and put beans into jar. Bury in beans f Ib. of fat salt pork. To i c boiling water add i T salt, i T molasses, 3T sugar, and pour over beans. Add enough more boiling water to cover beans ; replenish, if needed, during cooking. Cover the bean jar and bake slowly from 6 to 8 hours. Mustard may be added if the flavor is desired. Calculate the cost of this dish and the number of people served. What is the increase in the bulk of beans on cooking ? II. Lentil Soup 4 c lentils i Ib. ham Salt i bay leaf i onion Pepper i carrot i T butter Soak lentils overnight, drain, cover with cold water, and bring to boil ; cook for an hour. Drain again, cover with boil- ing water, add ^t soda, ham, bay leaf, onion, and carrot. Cook until lentils are tender. Remove ham, press through a colander. Season with salt, pepper, and butter. Add cream or milk to give desired consistency. III. Dried- Pea Soup 1 c dried peas Small piece of 2 T flour 2 qt. cold water fat salt pork i^t salt ^ onion 3T butter -Jt pepper Soak peas several hours or overnight; drain, add water, pork, and onion. Simmer several hours until soft, and run through colander or sieve. Melt butter, add flour, and mix. Add to this a small portion of the soup, boil, and turn into the soup kettle. This use of flour and butter in the making of soup or gravy is DRIED LEGUMES 53 termed "binding," because it holds together all the ingredients of the dish. Season with salt and pepper. If soup is too thick, add milk or cream. IV. Cream of Lima Beans Soak i c dried beans overnight, drain, and cook slowly in salted water for from 2 to 3 hours. Drain, season with butter, pepper, and salt, and add ^c cream. V. Peanut &indwiches Put freshly roasted peanuts through the finest knife on the grinder; mix with melted butter or salad dressing and make into sandwiches. V I . Salted Pea n uts -j-T butter or olive oil -J-c shelled peanuts Salt Shell and remove skins from unroasted peanuts, add them to the hot fat in frying pan, and stir constantly until peanuts are a light brown. Salt, and cool on brown paper to remove excess of fat. GENERAL EXERCISES Is it desirable to use the fireless cooker in preparing dried vegetables ? Compare the composition of beans and peanuts with potatoes. Would you serve salted peanuts with a heavy or a light meal ? If you were going camping and were allowed small luggage, suggest some of the vegetable foods which you probably would take and some which you would not. References ABEL. "Beans, Peas, and Other Legumes as Food," Fanner^ Bulletin No. 121, U.S. Department of Agriculture. HUTCHISON. Food and Dietetics. BEATTIE. " Syllabus on the Peanut," Faj-niers* Institute, Lecture /j, Office of Experiment Stations, U.S. Department of Agriculture. CHAPTER X V ' MILK Milk has a large percentage of water, but still contains enough of other nutrients to make it a good food. It is especially adapted to infants and young children, but is desirable for older people, either when taken alone or com- bined with other foods. COMPOSITION OF MILK CONSTITUENTS PER CENT Water 87-88 Protein T.-A Fat 3 1 -?-c Carbohydrate J J 4.c-c Ash t*j j O.7 */ It will be noted that milk contains the five nutrients, or food principles, and this is to be expected when it is realized that infants and growing children live on milk alone. It is adapted in form and composition to the needs of the young, but it is not good as an exclusive food for older persons, for the food principles are not in proper proportion for the adult. Milk is an animal food which contains a carbohydrate. This is a sugar and is called lactose. The fat of milk occurs in tiny globules (which rise to the top of milk as cream), and is separated in the form of butter. The mineral 54 MILK 55 matter of milk is especially adapted to the needs of the growing child. The protein of milk is mainly in two forms, casein and albumen. As said before, protein is the nutrient which builds tissue, and this is absolutely necessary for people of all ages, but especially needed for the young on account of growth. If milk is taken with a meal instead of water, it must be remembered that so much extra food is being added to the meal. A glass of milk or a bowl of cream soup may well form part of a light lunch. The value of skimmed milk as a food is not always appreciated. Skimming removes fat only, and the rest of the nutrients are left. The price of skimmed milk is much less than that of whole milk, and it has enough food value to deserve more extended use. Certain minute forms, already discussed in Chapter IV, as well as similar forms which produce disease, grow very readily in milk. Consequently great care must be used in producing, handling, and keeping milk. The production of clean, wholesome milk involves extra care and means additional expense. It is always wise to pay the price of good, wholesome milk, particularly if it is used for infants or invalids. The duty of inspecting dairies belongs to city boards of health ; and from these boards information con- cerning the condition of the milk from any dairy may be obtained. The duty of the householder is to know the source of the milk supply in the first place, and, in the second place, to take proper care of the milk after it is in the house. All pails, pans, bottles, and other vessels in which milk is kept should be thoroughly washed and scalded with boiling water after each use. A milk vessel rinsed with boiling water is in better condition if it is not wiped with U. S. Department of Agriculture Office of Experiment Stations A, C. True: Director Prepared by C. F. LANG WORTHY Expert in Charge of Nutrition Investigations Protein COMPOSITION OF FOOD MATERIALS Fat Carbohydrates Ash Water Fuel Value 1. Sq.In. Equals 1000 Calories WHOLE MILK Fat: 4.0- Ash: 0.7- - Water: 87.0 Fuel' value: -Protein: 3.3 Tar bohydrate*: 5.0 815 calories per pound BUTTERMILK Fat: 0.5 Ash: 0.7 Water: 91.0 Protein: 3.0 Carbohydrates: 4.8 SKIM MILK Fat: 0.3 Aon: 0.7 Fuel value: -Water: 90.6 Protein: 3.4 Nar, bohydrates: 5.1 165 calories per pound CREAM Fuel value: ar bohydrates: 4 ICO calories per pound 880 calories per pound MILK AND MILK PRODUCTS MILK 57 a towel or cloth, for these are not free from bacteria. For the same reason, the common custom of rinsing a pan in fresh cold water is not a good one. If the condition of the milk is doubtful, it is best to pasteurize or boil the milk, since heat will kill any disease-producing forms. Boiling milk will destroy many organisms present, but it affects the flavor of the milk and brings about other undesirable changes. In pasteurization the milk is not heated to the boiling point, but to a temperature high enough to destroy most disease-producing organisms. LABORATORY EXERCISES 1 I. Pasteurization of Milk Nearly fill a clean bottle with fresh milk. Cork with a care- fully rolled plug of clean cotton. Place the bottle in cold water, taking care that the water does not reach the mouth of the bottle. Heat slowly until the water reaches a temperature of 60 C. Remove from fire, but keep closely covered for 20 minutes. Remove from water and cool quickly. Keep in a cool place. Why should pasteurized milk be used soon after treating ? II. Effect of Boiling upon Milk 1. Boil a portion of sweet milk for i minute. Cool and com- pare with pasteurized milk as to taste. 2. Boil a portion of sour milk for i minute. III. Separation of Constituents of Milk 1. Skim cream from i c of milk. What has been removed from the milk ? 2. To the skimmed milk add vinegar drop by drop until the white curd (casein) separates out from the liquid. Strain. What nutrient is strained out ? 1 Exercises I, II, and III may be demonstrated by the teacher. 58 A STUDY OF FOODS 3. Boil the liquid which has passed through the strainer in 2. Strain or filter this through a filter paper. On the filter paper is the albumen. What nutrient is this ? 4. The liquid which has passed through the filter in 3 is the water of the milk with some substances dissolved in it. What are they ? IV. Cottage Cheese Pour 2 c of hot, but not boiling, water over 2 c of thick, sour milk. Strain. If the curd has a sour taste, add water a second time. Season with salt, pepper, and cream. V. Junket Heat to lukewarm ^-c milk. Add ^t sugar, a few drops va- nilla, and -J junket tablet dissolved in 1 1 warm water. Pour at once into a dish. When set, cool and serve. VI. Chocolate f c heated milk |-T sugar \ square bitter chocolate A few grains of salt cornstarch mixed with 4 or 5 drops of vanilla cold milk Add cornstarch, sugar, and salt to cold milk and heat to boil- ing, stirring constantly. Remove from fire, add grated choco- late, and mix with f c heated milk. Heat in a double boiler from 10 to 15 minutes. Just before serving, add vanilla and beat with Dover egg-beater. VII. Potato Soup 3 potatoes i-J-t salt 4C milk t celery salt 2 slices onion -Jt pepper 2T butter A few grains of cayenne i T flour i T chopped parsley MILK 59 Cook potatoes in boiling, salted water. When soft, rub through a sieve. Scald milk with onion until well seasoned, remove onion, and mix milk and potatoes. Bind the mixture with butter and flour which have been cooked together. Add seasonings and serve. GENERAL EXERCISES Compare cost of milk per quart from different dealers. What causes the difference in price? What is the standing of your milk dealer ? When should milk be pasteurized? What changes do you observe when sweet milk is heated ; when sour milk is heated? Why not use boiling water in making cottage cheese? Why do you heat milk in a double boiler? Why not use hot milk in making junket? References MILNER. "The Use of Milk as Food," Farmers' Bulletin No. 363, U.S. Department of Agriculture. HUTCHISON. Food and Dietetics. ROGERS. 'Bacteria in Milk," Farmer^ HnUctin No. 348, U.S. Depart- ment of Agriculture. WHITAKER, Roci RS. and HUNT. " The Care of Milk and its Uses in the Home," Farmers' Hnlletin No. 413^ U.S. Department of Agriculture. WHITAKER. "The Extra Cost of producing Clean Milk," Circular No. 170, Bureau of Animal Industry. LANE. " Medical Milk Commissions and the Production of Certified Milk in the United States," Hnlletin No. 104, Bureau of Animal Industry. " Milk and its Relation to Public Health," Hygienic Laboratory Bul- letin No. 56. DENTOX. ' Pasteurization of City Milk Supplies," The Journal of Home Economics^ June, 1910. U. S. Department of Agriculture Office of Experiment Stations A. C. True: Director Prepared by C. F. LANG WORTHY Expert in Charge of Nutrition Investigations COMPOSITION OF FOOD MATERIALS Protein Fat Carbohydrates Ash Water WHOLE EGG Fuel Value 1. Sq.In. Equala 1000 Calories Water: 73.7 EGG WHITE AND YOLK Protein: 14.8 JM Fat: 10.5 Ash: 1.0 Fuel value of whole egg: ater: 86.2 lein: 13.0 JIuei value of yolk Fat: 0.2 Ash: 0.6 Fuel value of white: 695 calories per pound CREAM CHEESE Water: 34.2 X 1650 calories per- pound 245 calories per pound Fat: 33.7. Ash: 3. COTTAGE CHEESE Protein: 25.9 'Water: 72.0, Carbohydrates. 2.4 Carbohydrates: 4, Protein: 20.9 1885 calories per pound Fuel value: B 495 calories per pound EGGS AND CHEESE 60 CHAPTER XI EGGS Eggs are a valuable animal food composed of water, protein, fat, and mineral matter, all the substances required for the development of the young chick. The percentage of water is less than in milk, the protein is greater, and there is no carbohydrate. Albumen is found in the white and yolk of egg, as well as in milk, but other forms of protein occur in eggs. The yolk contains the fat and a large part of the mineral matter. Eggs are a good substitute for meat because of their protein. The shell of the egg, contrary to popular notion, is porous, and consequently will permit the entrance of disease and other putrefactive germs. Dirty nests may be dangerous, and if eggs are packed, clean material should be used. Eggs should be kept clean rather than washed, for they have a slight covering which is some protection against infection as well as against evaporation. As an egg grows older, water evaporates through the porous shell and the egg weighs less. This fact is made use of in testing the freshness of eggs. When they are put into water or a salt solution, the fresh or heavy ones stay at the bottom and the lighter ones come to the top. The white of egg on beating entangles a large amount of air, and this is an aid in making light desserts, omelets, and cakes. Albumen coagulates on heating, and this makes egg a thickening agent for custards and sauces. Care must 61 62 A STUDY OF FOODS be taken not to overcook albumen ; if in combination with a liquid, it will first thicken the liquid, but on continued heating it will separate, as the protein of milk does in making cottage cheese. If albumen is heated slightly it becomes jellylike, and on continued heating it grows very hard and tough. LA BORA TOR Y EXERCISES l I. Manipulation. 1. Separate the white and yolk of an egg. Beat each thor- oughly with a wire egg-beater. Note difference in results. Let both stand 30 minutes. Observe occasionally, but do not disturb. If eggs are used as leaveners, when should they be beaten ? 2. Beat whole egg thoroughly. Compare i and 2. What ef- fect does the presence of the yolk have on the beating of the white ? What is the purpose in the beating of eggs ? II. Effect of Heat upon Eggs. 1. Place 3 eggs in 3 pints of boiling water. Remove from flame, cover closely, and keep warm. Test i egg in 5 minutes, another in 7, and the third in 10. 2. Cover i egg with boiling water. Boil for 3 minutes. Re- move and test. 3. Cover i egg with boiling water and boil for 20 minutes. What factors would have any effect on comparable results in the above experiments ? III. Poached Eggs. Place i c water in small frying pan. Bring to boil, add J t salt. Break an egg into a saucer and carefully slip it into a buttered muffin ring placed in the bottom of the frying pan. The water should cover the egg. Place the pan where the water cannot 1 Exercises I and II may be demonstrated by the teacher. EGGS 63 boil, let stand until a white film has formed over the top of the egg and the white is firm (about 6 minutes). With a skimmer remove the egg and muffin ring to a piece of buttered toast and carefully lift off the ring. Season with butter, salt, and pepper. IV. Omelet. i egg i T water t salt Pepper i t butter Separate white and yolk of egg. Beat yolk until thick, add salt, pepper, and water, and mix well. Beat white until stiff but not dry. Fold the white carefully into the yolk. Melt the but- ter in an omelet pan, add the egg, and cook at a low tempera- ture. Place in a hot oven to dry the top. Fold and turn onto a hot platter. When should the oven be lighted ? When should the white of egg be beaten ? Would a preparation of yolks of eggs alone be light ? V. Baked Custard. i c milk 2 T sugar i egg A few grains of salt Flavoring Do not beat egg, but mix thoroughly with milk, sugar, and salt. Add milk and flavoring and pour into a custard cup. Set cup in a pan of warm water and place in oven. Why is the cup set in a pan of water ? VI. Soft Custard. i c scalded milk Few grains salt 1 egg Vanilla 2 T sugar Beat egg slightly and add sugar and salt ; stir constantly while gradually adding the hot milk. Cook in a double boiler ; continue 64 A STUDY OF FOODS stirring until mixture thickens and a coating is formed on the spoon. Chill, and flavor with vanilla. If cooked too long the custard will curdle ; if this should happen, remove immediately from the fire and whip with a Dover egg-beater. GENERAL EXERCISES From observations on Exercise II, how should a soft-cooked egg be prepared? For a family of six, calculate the cost of a serving of soft-cooked eggs when eggs are 20 cents a dozen ; 45 cents a dozen. Repeat cost calculation for omelet. Why are eggs beaten in making the omelet, and not beaten in making the custard? References LANGWORTHY. " Eggs and their Uses as Food," Farmers'' Bulletin No. 128, U.S. Department of Agriculture. HUTCHISON. Food and Dietetics. HAMMERSTEN. Physiological Chemistry. LEACH. Food Inspection and Analysis. LAMSON. " Water Glass a Preservative for Eggs," Bulletin No. 67, Connecticut Experiment Station. LAMSON. " Infection and Preservation of Eggs," Bulletin No. Connecticut Experiment Station. CHAPTER XII CHEESE Cheese is a food prepared from milk, but differs greatly from milk in composition. At least half of the water is re- moved from milk in the making of cheese. There is a great variety of cheeses, due to the kind of milk used and the methods of making and ripening. Ordinarily cow's milk is used, and the curd is separated by use of either acid or rennet. Where a large part of the water is removed, a hard cheese results, such as the ordinary American cheeses. The Neuf- chatel is an example of a soft or cream cheese. The flavor of cheese is produced during the ripening process by the ac- tion of bacteria or molds. The familiar American or Cheddar cheese is ripened by bacterial action ; Roquefort, by molds. Cheese varies greatly both in kind and composition, but, generally speaking, it is approximately one third each of water, fat, and protein. Cheese contains practically no car- bohydrate, and the custom of eating it with crackers, or com- bining with rice, macaroni, or potatoes, is rational. Cheese is frequently called indigestible, but the reason for this is usu- ally due to improper use. It is a highly concentrated food, consequently should not be eaten in very large quantities or added to the dessert at the end of a heavy meal. Cheese is frequently eaten for its flavor, but its food value should always be recognized when it becomes a part of the meal. A very desirable way of serving cheese is in combination with other foods, thus affording a large variety of cooked dishes. 65 66 A STUDY OF FOODS LABORATORY EXERCISES I. Effect of Heat upon Cheese Add 2T grated cheese to -J-c milk. Heat to boiling. Note results. Explain. II. Welsh Rabbit . 2 T flour 2 T butter i c milk 4-6 T cheese i egg yolk Prepare a white sauce with flour, butter, and milk. Add cheese (finely divided) and egg yolk. Remove from fire, and stir until cheese is melted ; reheat, and serve at once on hot wafers or toast. III. French Rabbit Fill a baking dish with alternate layers of bread (which has been sliced, spread with butter, and cut into small squares) and cheese either grated or ground. Moisten this thoroughly with a mixture made in the following proportions : i c milk Salt i egg Cayenne pepper and mustard Bake until thoroughly heated through and browned on top. IV. Cheese Crackers Sprinkle grated cheese thinly over crackers. Season with salt and cayenne pepper. Place in the oven until crackers are slightly browned. V. Cheese and Pimento Sandwiches c cheese 2 T cream or salad dressing chopped pimento Salt and pepper Cottage, Neufchatel, or any other soft cheese may be used. Cream the butter and spread very thin slices of bread. Spread CHEESE 67 the filling on the slices of bread and pile in layers of from six to eight slices, having a piece of plain bread on top. When ready to serve, cut through the slices, making a layer sandwich. GENERAL EXERCISES Which one of the food principles in cheese is most affected by heat? For a family of six, what is the cost of a serving of Welsh rabbit ? Note cost, flavor, and appearance of at least five different kinds of cheese. References LANGWORTHY and HUNT. "Cheese and its Economical Use in the Diet," Farmers' Bulletin No. 4.87, U.S. Department of Agriculture. HUTCHISON. Food and Dietetics. CONN. Dairy Bacteriology. WILEY. Foods and their Adulteration. LEACH. Food Inspection and Analysis. ALVORD. Cheese Making on the Farm, Farmers' Bulletin No. 166, U.S. Department of Agriculture. WILLIAMS. Chemistry of Cookery. CHAPTER XIII MEAT The flesh of cattle, swine, and sheep furnish our common meats. Beef is from cattle, veal from calves, mutton from sheep, and lamb from the young sheep. Meat, milk, cheese, and eggs are the chief sources of protein. Protein from animal sources is expensive, and vegetable protein should be frequently used as a substitute. Meat contains water, protein, fat, and mineral matter. The amount of water varies with the fat, which occurs in layers and also through the lean of the meat in portions so finely divided as not to be visible. The mineral content of meat is important from a dietetic viewpoint. Meat contains a group of substances called extractives. These are not nutrients, but they give to the meat its desirable flavor and consequently they should be considered in cooking meat. These extractives are soluble in water and may be quickly re- moved by hot water. They vary in kind and amount in dif- ferent meats, and these, together with the fat, give each meat its characteristic flavor. As a muscle is used, the amount of extractives increases, consequently the highest flavored is very often the most used and the toughest. For example, a round steak is more highly flavored than a tenderloin. Meat, or muscle, is made up of bundles of fibers bound together with connective tissue. Each of these bundles is made up of smaller bundles, the fibers being microscopic. 68 MEAT 69 These little fibers are elongated cells filled with a fluid called protein. There are several proteins in meat, and some are soluble in cold water. Protein forms from 15 to 20 per cent of the meat. As a muscle is used the walls of the fibers thicken and harden, and the connective tissue increases in amount, so making a tough piece of meat. '2 34 BOTTI.KS SHOU INC; AVKKAGE COMPOSITION OF ONE POUND OF BEEF I, mineral salt, .16 oz. ; 2, fat, 2.08 oz. ; 3, protein, 3.04 oz. ; 4, water, 10.72 oz. The cuts of meat may be roughly divided into two classes, tough and tender. The toughness may be due to the amount and kind of connective tissue, or to the fact that the desir- able changes which follow slaughtering have not taken place. The connective tissue increases in amount and toughness with age and hard work. For this reason, veal is more tender than beef ; the porterhouse steak cut out from the back where the muscles are little used is more tender than the round cut from the leg where the muscles are in con- stant use. The best beef-producing cattle have certain 70 A STUDY OF FOODS * characteristics wide back, thick flesh covering, short legs, etc.- -and animals of this type that have been well fed produce first-grade meat. This, of course, is more tender and of a better flavor than that from lower-grade cattle. The fat should be evenly distributed through the meat ; this means less waste, and in cooking bastes all parts much more effectively. Meats undergo marked changes in texture after slaughter- ing. Immediately after the animal is killed the flesh is juicy and tender ; very soon the death rigor develops, the muscles stiffen, and the meat is. tough. Later on, due partly, at least, to the formation of acids, the flesh becomes softer and more tender, as in the first stage, and acquires an added flavor. In hot climates the meat is commonly eaten in the first or the second stage ; in temperate climates, in the second and the third, and, of course, is much more palatable and tender if left until the third stage. The effect of heat upon protein has already been shown with milk, eggs, and cheese, and the same general principles hold for cooking the protein in meat. The purposes of cooking meat are to develop flavor, improve appearance, kill any living organisms, and soften the connective tissues if they are present in large amounts. Since proteins are coagulated and hardened by heat, it is probably true that cooking diminishes ease of digestion, and it may remove considerable quantities of nutrients. The effect on con- nective tissue depends on whether dry or moist heat is applied. If the soft part, or the contents of the fibers, is scraped out and the remaining connective tissue placed in a smoking hot frying pan, the effect of dry heat can easily be seen. The tissue shrinks and hardens to a remarkable MEAT 71 degree, illustrating what happens when a tough cut, such as round, is broiled or roasted. If a similar piece were placed in water and simmered for a long time, the fibers would fall apart, and when the broth was cooled it would set more or less solidly. This is due to the fact that the moist heat has acted on the connective tissue, forming gelatin, which dissolves easily in the hot liquid and stiffens on cooling. The extractives, or flavoring materials in the meat, are dissolved out in hot water. The flavor is much more highly developed in meat cooked by dry heat, because of the higher temperature and also because of the browned outside. So we prefer the broiled steak or the roast if the meat is a tender cut. Beef is divided by the butcher through the backbone into sides or halves, and then each of these is cut between the twelfth and thirteenth ribs into fore and hind quarters. The muscles of the four quarter run irregularly and there are more of them, so that the meat is usually of a lower grade and, therefore, cheaper than that from the hind quarter. The most tender and the most expensive cuts lie just back of the middle of the backbone, decreasing in value as either extremity is approached. The best part of the fore quarter is taken from the ribs and is usually cut into roasts. A rib roast is tender and may be roasted in an open pan with dry heat. The fore quarter includes the chuck, neck, etc., and belongs to the tough cuts, so they must either be ground or cooked by moist heat, as in pot roasts, stewing, braising, corning, or in soup. These cuts are fully as nutritious as the more expensive ones, and if properly cooked at low temperatures and well seasoned, they offer an excellent means of reducing the cost of food. 72 A STUDY OF FOODS The most expensive and tender cut comes from the Short ph^ jn front- nf th^ hipg anH IQ knnwn xs. fhp pr| r |-er- house cuL This cut is made up partly of the muscle called the tenderloin and partly of the sirloin. Where the tenderloin muscle ends, the loin n its ^ p g in i and extend back to the rump cut. These are not so tender as porter- house, but still are classed as tender cuts, and, therefore, are suitable for broiling. The rump piece is ordinarily cut into roasts, but usually needs the application of some moist heat to make the meat tender, and for this reason they are used as pot roasts. Relow the rump lies the ronnrj a piece of meat that has little waste and good flavor. The inside, or top, round from a first-grade animal ma UPS a fairly tpnHpr steak when broil pd ; tjie ontsiHp nr hnfforr^ r minH ic less desirable, and unless one is sure of the grade of the beef, moist heat or grinding is usually advisable. In estimating the relative cost of the various cuts, the amount of waste must be taken into consideration ; for example, chuck ribs ordinarily sell for from 10 to 12! cents per pound, round from 1 5 to 1 8 cents per pound, and porterhouse from 25 to 30 cents per pound. Of the chuck ribs at least one half is waste ; of the round only about one twelfth ; and of the porterhouse about one eighth. The real cost of the edible portions then of the three cuts mentioned at 10, 15, and 25 cents per pound, re- spectively, would be 22, 1 6^, and 28 1 cents, showing that the round because of its small percentage of waste is by far the cheapest. As has already been said, protein is coagulated and hard- ened by heat. The higher the temperature, the harder and tougher the product. Therefore we use a high temperature MEAT 73 only at the beginning of the cooking process to form a coating over the outside which will retain the juices, and then lower the heat so that the interior may not be tough- ened and its juices coagulated. For this reason steaks should not be cut too thin ; never less than three quarters of an inch thick, and thicker than that is desirable. The methods of cooking meat by application of dry heat are broiling, pan broiling, oven roasting in an un- covered pan, or roasting before an open fire. The steak may be broiled under gas or over glowing coals, and if properly done will be well browned on the outside and juicy and pink on the inside. A steak that is gray all through will not be juicy, because the proteins dissolved in the juices have all been hardened by the heat. The steak should be first seared on either side to retain the juice, then moved farther from the flame so that the interior will not be over- cooked. Frequently it is more convenient to broil in frying pan or skillet. In this case the pan should be smoking hot and may be rubbed lightly with a bit of fat to prevent stick- ing. As soon as the meat is browned on either side, the heat should be reduced as in ordinary broiling. If fat col- lects in the pan, it should be poured off, otherwise the meat will be fried rather than broiled and will lose in flavor. A number of experiments in the roasting of meat were carried on at the University of Illinois, and it was found that for a tender cut the closed pan did not give as satisfac- tory results, as far as flavor and appearance were concerned, and the losses were greater than where an open pan was used. The same principle of high heat at first for searing and then a lower heat to finish the cooking applies here also. If the fat side is placed uppermost in the pan, 74 A STUDY OF FOODS basting will not be found necessary. If the roast is lack- ing in fat, lay a piece of suet on the uppermost side. The methods of cooking meat by the application of moist heat are stewing, braising, steaming, etc. By brown- ing the meat first, a good flavor is produced and probably more of the juices are retained. In stewing, the meat is cut into smaller pieces and is served with the broth or gravy so that none of the flavor and nutritive material will be lost. In braising, the meat is placed in a covered pan in the oven and steamed in its own juice. A pot roast is similar, except that it is cooked in a kettle on top of the stove. A small amount of water is usually added in both cases, and the meat may be floured and browned in smoking fat before the water is added. The temperature 9 f after the browning process is finished must be low. This method may be used with steaks also, browning thoroughly, then adding a small amount of water, covering closely, and cooking for a long time over a very slow fire. Unless the broth is served with the meat, quite a little of the nutritive and flavoring material may be lost, since the extractives, mineral matter, and some of the protein will dissolve in water. The scum which covers the sur- face of broth is mostly made up of the dissolved protein which has been hardened by heat, as are also the set- tlings. In a clear broth this scum and any solid particles are usually carefully removed before serving, so that there is little left in the broth but some mineral salts and the extractives. The strong meaty flavor deceives many people who imagine that because of it the broth is nourishing. These extractives are allied to the stimulating substances found in MEAT 75 tea and coffee, and therefore the broth has some value as a stimulant, often whetting the appetite, but in cases of severe illness it should not be given unless ordered by a physician. It is commonly thought that the most expensive cuts of meat have the best flavor, but it is frequently true that the extrac- tives are better developed in the muscles which have been used more, and are in consequence tougher. The use of dry heat, which is possible only with the more tender cuts, does tend to develop flavor, and because of the ease of mastication the flavor is more easily detected in the tender cuts. While the extractives are not nutritious, their value as digestive stimulants must not be underrated. Good meat is bright red in color and has fat evenly distributed through it. The fat should be light yellow and firm. The price of meat is regulated by its tenderness rather than by its nutritive value. The tougher cuts require more skill in preparation, more time, and more fuel, al- though usually the cost of the extra fuel does not equal the extra cost of the tender meat. LABORATORY EXERCISES I. Effect of Dry Heat upon Protein From a three-inch square of round steak scrape out the soft portion with a dull knife. Form this into a ball. Place the soft ball, and the connective tissue from which it has been scraped, in a hot frying pan. Carefully watch the connective tissue while heating. Examine both after cooking and explain results. II. Effect of Moist Heat upon Protein Soak i T ground beef in 2 T cold water for several minutes. Strain and place in a test tube. 76 A STUDY OF FOODS Mix 1 1 white of egg with 2 T cold water and place in a test tube. Heat both test tubes. Explain results. III. Tender Cuts 1 . Pan-broiled porterhouse steak or chops. Note weight as purchased. Weigh all edible portions and calculate the cost. Wipe with a damp cloth and trim off ragged edges and excess of fat. Put into a smoking hot frying pan without any grease. Turn several times until both surfaces are seared and brown. Finish cooking at a lower heat, turning occasionally. Salt sides of meat just as the cooking is finished. Serve on a hot dish. 2. Beef roast (ribs). Calculate cost of the edible portion as in exercise III. See that the meat selected is clean. Trim off any ragged portions, but do not remove fat. Place a rack in the pan, arranging to have the larger cut surface exposed to the direct heat of the oven. The part with the greatest surface of fat should be placed uppermost, to do away with the necessity of basting. Place in a very hot oven, maintaining this heat for 15 or 20 minutes, after which the heat should be lowered and the roast- ing continued, allowing from 15 to 20 minutes for each pound, according to the shape of the cut and the degree of cooking desired. Remove roast to a hot platter and pour hot fat from pan. Make gravy in pan in which roast is cooked. Measure flour and fat in the proportion of 2 T of each to i c water. Thoroughly mix and brown fat and flour. Remove from fire and gradually add the water, stirring constantly. Boil, season, and serve hot. IV. Tough Cuts i. Pressed veal. Cook a shank of veal until very tender, so that meat can be easily picked to pieces. Let the water cook down until about i c of the liquid remains. Pick the veal apart, season with salt, pepper, and sage if desired. Pour over this the liquid from the vessel in which the meat was cooked. Mix MEAT 77 thoroughly and pack closely in a pan of proper shape to make good slices when the meat is cold. When set, cut in thin slices and serve. Hard-cooked eggs may be packed into center 6f mold. 2. Sivtss steak. Pound a liberal quantity of flour into a piece of round steak on both sides. Season well and saute in very hot suet drippings until a good brown crust is formed. Then add sufficient water to barely cover, and simmer slowly for from i to i hours. It may be necessary to add a little water occasionally. When ready to serve there should be just enough liquid to moisten the meat thoroughly. Onion or tomato juice may be added to vary the flavor. Calculate cost of edible portion as in exercise III. 3. Brown stav. Cut lean beef into cubes; neck beef will be found quite satisfactory for this. Season each piece with salt and pepper ; dredge thoroughly with flour and brown well on all sides in a frying pan, using a little suet to prevent sticking and to give necessary fat. Add sufficient water to cover meat, and when this has boiled up once, turn into a double boiler and cook for 3 hours. Diced vegetables may be added, toward the end of the cooking, if the flavor is desired. If gravy is thin, pour off and thicken. 4. Pot roast. Use a cut from the round, the rump, or the shoulder. Season with salt and pepper and dredge with flour ; then brown entire surface in pork fat or suet. Add a little boil- ing water, cover closely, and cook slowly for several hours (4 hours is not too long for a 4- or 5-pound roast). Vegetables may be added if desired. Less water may be added and the meat cooked in the oven. The water around meat in either case should be kept below the boiling point. Why ? The liquor around this meat makes an excellent foundation for gravy. A STUDY OF FOODS MEAT SUBSTITUTES By a meat substitute is meant a dish which contains enough protein so that it can reasonably take the place of meat at a meal. Meat substitutes may be found from both vegetable and animal sources, but the former are cheaper. List the dishes suggested in this book which might serve as meat substitutes. Discuss the comparative cost and food value. Suggest other substitutes. Materials, such as rice, potatoes, dumplings, and maca- roni, are frequently cooked with meat, thereby gaining its flavor and lessening the amount of meat eaten. These are called meat extenders, and their use helps to reduce the cost of food. These extenders are useful when a small quantity of meat is on hand. MEAT LEFT-OVERS Portions of meat left over are too frequently thrown away, or so poorly prepared that. they might as well have been thrown away. The use of left-overs requires some skill and care, but throwing them away is extravagance. More thought about quantities purchased would frequently result in no left-over portions. In preparing left-overs the result should always justify the extra materials added, the time, and the fuel used in preparation. In the second cooking of meat it must be remembered that little cooking should be done, or the meat will be dried and unappetizing. Extra flavorings are usually added, for the original flavor of the meat is lost. MEAT 79 LABORATORY EXERCISES I. Minced Meat Chop or grind cold meat, heat with some of the gravy, and season with celery salt or onion juice. Serve on buttered toast. II. Escaloped Meat Put into a baking dish alternate layers of macaroni or rice, and chopped or ground meat. Pour over it brown gravy or tomato sauce. Cover with buttered crumbs and bake until dish is heated through and crumbs are brown. III. Browned Hash Mix together equal parts of chopped meat and chopped cold boiled potatoes. Moisten slightly with gravy or stock. Season and place in heated frying pan containing a little fat. Press compactly into one half of the pan ; heat slowly until brown. Turn onto a platter and serve with tomato sauce. IV. Beef Croquettes i c cold beef (ground) A few drops Worcestershire Salt and pepper sauce i T melted butter Enough gravy or meat i or 2 1 onion juice stock to moisten well Add ingredients to meat, shape, roll in flour, egg, and crumbs. Fry in deep fat and serve with tomato sauce. V. Meat Salad Left-over portions of veal, chicken, or ham may be mixed with celery or cabbage and dressed with salad dressing. GENERAL EXERCISES List the market prices of the common cuts of meat. For a family of six, calculate cost of a porterhouse and a Swiss steak. With the cost of the serving of meat just calculated, compare the cost of a serving of eggs at 20 cents a dozen ; at 45 cents a dozen. 8o A STUDY OF FOODS For a family of six, calculate the cost of a rib roast and a pot (rump) roast. In which of the above illustrations would a fireless cooker be useful ? What makes the pressed veal " set," after the liquid is poured over the meat? Do you think that the usual objection to tougher and cheaper cuts of meat is well founded? References WOODS. " Meats, Composition, and Cooking," Farmers 1 Brdletin No. 34, U.S. Department of Agriculture. LANGWORTHY and HUNT. " Economical Use of Meat in the Home," . Farmers' 1 Bulletin No. 391, U.S. Department of Agriculture. GRINDLEY. ' Experiments on Losses in Cooking Meat," Bulletin No. 102, Experiment Stations, U.S. Department of Agriculture. GRINDLEY and MOJONNIER. " Losses in Cooking Meat," Bulletin No. 141, Experiment Stations, U.S. Department of Agriculture. GRINDLEY. " Studies of Effect of Different Methods of Cooking upon Ease and Thoroughness of Digestion," Bulletin No. 193, Experi- ment Stations, U.S. Department of Agriculture. Boss. " Meat on the Farm, Butchering, Curing, and Keeping," Farmers'' Bulletin No. 183, U.S. Department of Agriculture. MELVIN. ' The Federal Meat Inspection Service, Bureau of Animal Industry," Circular No. 125, U.S. Department of Agriculture. BEVIER and SPRAGUE. ' Roasting of Beef," Circular No. 77, Illinois Experiment Station. HALL. " Market Classes and Grades of Meat," Bulletin No. 147, Illinois Experiment Station. HUTCHISON. Food and Dietetics. TERRELL. Household Management. HALL and EMMETT. " Relative Economy, Composition, and Nutritive Value of the Various Cuts of Beef," Bulletin No. 138, Illinois Ex- periment Station. CHAPTER XIV FISH AND OYSTERS The flesh of fish resembles the flesh of other animals in composition. The muscle fibers are shorter, coarser, and are bound with much less connective tissue. Generally speaking, fish contains more water than meat and much less fat. A few of the commonly eaten fish, such as sal- mon, contain fat in greater quantity, but these do not con- tain more than half of the quantity found in a piece of moderately fat beef. The flavor of fish is very character- istic, and its use affords variety to the diet. The flavor of freshly caught fish is far superior to that which has been kept even a short time. Unlike meat, fish should not be kept, but used immediately. Fish lends itself to various methods of preparation, and is good in combination with other things. The all-too-frequent habit of frying fish has possibly led to its disfavor with many people. In selecting fish on the market, choose only those with firm flesh and bright eyes. Fish spoils very quickly on removal from cold storage. Oysters are another form of sea food very commonly used. These are valued for their flavor rather than for their nutritive value. They have approximately the same composition as milk, and cost from five to ten times as much as milk. Some danger attends the eating of raw oysters, due to the fact that they are sometimes fattened 81 U. S. Department of Agriculture Office of Experiment Stations A. C. True: Director Prepared by C. F. LANGWOKTHY Expert in Charge of Nutrition Investigations COMPOSITION OF FOOD MATERIALS Protein COD LEAN FISH Fat Carbohydrates Ash Water: 82.6 Fuel value: t 300 calories per pound Protein: 15.8 OYSTER Fat: .4 Water: 86. Carbohydrates: 3.7 Ash: 1.2 SMOKED HERRING Fuel value: I Water: 34.6 Protein: 36.4 230 calories per pound Water Fuel Value 1. Sq.In. Equals 1000 Calories SALT COD Fuel value: Water: 53. 400 calories per pound Protein: 21.5 Fat: .3- Ash: 24.7 MACKEREL FAT FISH Water 73. Protein: 18.3 Fuel value: 1305 calories per pound Fuel value: i 620 calories per pound FISH, FISH PRODUCTS, AND OYSTERS 82 FISH AND OYSTERS 83 in sewage-polluted water. The laws for food inspection have done a great deal to correct this evil, but outbreaks of typhoid fever have been traced to the eating of raw oysters. LABORATORY EXERCISES I. Boiled Fish To each quart of water in which fish is to be cooked add 1 1 salt and 1 1 vinegar. Small fish should be cooked whole. For preserving the shape and appearance of the fish it is desirable to wrap it in a piece of cheesecloth, which is also an aid in handling the fish. A wire basket is convenient for cooking fish in water. Put the fish into the boiling water and cook at the simmering point until the bones and flesh will readily separate. Drain water from the fish ; bone, and serve with suitable sauce. II. Baked Fish Clean fish ; the head and tail may or may not be removed. The fish may or may not be boned. Rub inside and out with salt and pepper. Fill the cavity with stuffing, allowing it room to swell slightly. Sew the slit over with strong thread, taking stitches so deep that they will not tear out. Brush over with melted butter and dredge with flour. If the fish is lean, lay strips of fat pork over it. A little water should be added to the pan. Bake from 40 to 60 minutes, basting occasionally. When done, remove strings and strips of bacon. Garnish with lemon and parsley and serve with a suitable sauce. III. Fish Stuffing i c bread crumbs A few drops of onion juice melted butter 1 1 chopped parsley salt ^t pepper 1 1 chopped cucumber pickle, if desired This is a dry dressing. If a moist dressing is desired, water or meat stock may be added. 84 A STUDY OF FOODS IV. Sauces 1 . Maitre-d ''hotel butter \ c butter \ t pepper ^ t salt i T chopped parsley i T lemon juice Cream butter in a bowl ; add salt, pepper, parsley, and then slowly, lemon juice. 2. Drawn-butter sauce -Jc butter i^c hot water 3 T flour Salt and pepper Melt \ the butter, add flour and seasonings, and pour hot water on gradually. Cook thoroughly and add remaining but- ter cut into small pieces. May be served with broiled or baked fish. In the latter case, add iJT lemon juice or vinegar. 3. Tartar sauce i T vinegar \\. salt 1 1 lemon juice i T Worcestershire Jc butter sauce Mix vinegar, lemon juice, salt, and Worcestershire sauce, and heat over hot water. Brown butter and strain into mixture. V. Escaloped Salmon i c flaked salmon i c white sauce Remove salmon from can, separate skin and bone, and flake the salmon. Put alternate layers of fish and white sauce in a buttered baking dish, cover with buttered crumbs, and heat in oven until brown. VI. Codfish Balls c salted cod -^c potatoes egg White pepper -J-t butter Salt, if needed FISH AND OYSTERS 85 Wash the fish in cold water and break into small pieces. Wash and pare the potatoes and cut into pieces. Cook the fish and potatoes together in boiling water until the potatoes are soft. Drain, shake over the fire until dry, mash with a fork, add the beaten egg, butter, pepper, salt if needed, and beat until light. Take up by spoonfuls, mold slightly, and cook in deep fat. Or shape into croquettes, roll in egg and crumbs, and fry in deep fat. VII. Creamed Oysters 1 c oysters 3 T butter Pepper 3T flour Salt i c milk Set oysters to drain. Make a thick white sauce of the other ingredients, add the oysters just before time to serve, and cook only long enough to heat them thoroughly. The oysters should be plump when served - - not heated until they shrink. FISH LKFT-OVERS VIII. Escahped Fish 2 c cold flaked fish Bit of bay leaf i c white sauce i slice onion i c milk Salt and pepper Few sprigs parsley c buttered crumbs Heat milk with parsley, bay leaf, and onion until well sea- soned, and make into white sauce. Arrange fish and white sauce in a buttered baking dish in alternate layers, cover with buttered crumbs, and brown in hot oven. IX. Fish Croquettes Moisten ic cold flaked fish with a thick white sauce. Cool and shape into croquettes ; roll in flour, then in egg and in crumbs, and fry in deep fat. Cold hard-cooked eggs or parsley may be cut up and added to the croquette mixture. 86 A STUDY OF FOODS X. Creamed Fish i c cold flaked fish 4.T chopped pimento i c white sauce i hard-cooked egg Reheat fish with pimento and egg in white sauce. GENERAL EXERCISES For a family of six, calculate the cost of a serving of fresh fish and compare with cost of meat. Repeat with escaloped salmon and creamed oysters. Where are oysters grown, how obtained, and how shipped ? Is the frequent warning against eating raw oysters well founded? References LANGWORTHY. " Fish as Food," Farmers' Bulletin No. 85, U.S. Depart- ment of Agriculture. STILES. " The Value of the Shell-fish Industry and the Protection of Oysters from Sewage Contamination," Yearbook of Department of Agriculture, 1910, Separate No. 544. STILES. " Shell-fish Contamination from Sewage-Polluted Waters and from Other Sources," Bulletin No. fj6, Bureau of Chemistry. HUTCHISON. Food and Dietetics. CHAPTER XV GELATIN Gelatin is a substance derived from animal sources. It is closely related chemically to the other proteins which have been discussed, but it does not serve the purpose in the body which some of these do. It is prepared commer- cially by boiling bone, gristle, skin, etc. in water, and then purifying. Gelatin is odorless, colorless, and tasteless in the pure state. It swells in cold water and dissolves in hot water. On cooling, a gelatin solution " sets," or " jellies." In this respect gelatin is similar to certain substances in plants which also set, or jelly, water solutions. Certain sea plants, such as mosses and agar, yield substances which have this property, and preparations of these are on the market under various names. In the ordinary fruit juices is found another substance- -pectin, a carbohydrate - which causes these juices to jelly. While some other sub- stances will form a jelly, chemically they are not the same as gelatin, and do not have the same food value. Gelatin is generally used in the preparation of desserts, where it is valued as a carrier of flavor and for its texture and consist- ency. A very small per cent of gelatin is required to jelly a solution, so that the amount of gelatin ordinarily used is small. Gelatin is prepared in sheets and in granulated form. The latter may be bought in bulk or in small packages. 87 88 A STUDY OF FOODS It is most frequently used with fruits, both fresh and canned, but fresh pineapple should never be used because the gelatin will lose its power to jelly, due to the action of the enzyme in the pineapple. LABORATORY EXERCISES I. Jellied Prunes J Ib. prunes 3 1 gelatin i c sugar ^c lemon juice Soak and cook prunes, remove stones, and cut into pieces. To the prune juice add enough boiling water to make 2 cupfuls. Soak gelatin in 4 T cold water ; when soft, dissolve in hot prune juice, and add sugar and lemon juice. Add prunes and chill. Stir occasionally during cooling process so that the prunes may not settle when the jelly sets. II. Orange Whip 4t gelatin ^c cold water i pt. orange juice Juice i lemon Sugar Soak gelatin in cold water and dissolve in hot water. Strain into this the fruit juice and sugar to taste. Set aside until partly jellied and then whip with Dover egg-beater until it becomes white and frothy. What causes the change of appearance on beating ? III. Snow Pudding 2 1 gelatin i c sugar ^c cold water ^c lemon juice i c boiling water Whites 3 eggs Soak gelatin in cold water, dissolve in boiling water, add sugar and then lemon juice. Cool ; when it thickens, beat with GELATIN 89 an egg-beater until light. Add stiffly beaten whites of eggs and continue beating until mixture is stiff enough to hold its shape. Serve cold with custard sauce. IV. Tomato Jelly i c tomato juice 1 1 gelatin soaked in i slice onion 2 T cold water i stalk celery ^t sugar i bay leaf Salt i clove Paprika Simmer tomato juice and seasonings for 5 minutes. Add soaked gelatin to the hot tomato juice. Strain and pour into molds to set. Serve on a lettuce leaf and with a salad dressing. GENERAL EXERCISES Calculate the cost of the three puddings and the number of people served by each. How much would the cost be increased by serving whipped cream with them? Can you suggest the reason for the condition of a cold veal or beef soup stock? References WII.KV. Foods and their Adulteration. ALLEN. Commercial Organic Analysis. CHAPTER XVI FATS AND OILS * Fat is found in both plant and animal foods, as previously stated, and is practically always used as a food in combina- tion with other things. The cooking of food in fat is a favorite method with many people because of the flavor which is developed, but the frying of food is more common than it should be, even though by proper care food may be cooked in fat without becoming grease soaked. Food which is soaked in fat is more slowly and less easily digested. Harm may come from overheating fat in the cooking, for heat causes fat to decompose into substances which are irritating to the digestive tract. Fats vary not only in the melting point but in the temperature at which they decompose by heat. Generally speaking, oils may be heated to a higher temperature without decomposing than the solid fats, and consequently they make a very desirable medium for cook- ing. The cooking oils usually cost less than the solid fats, and, due to higher point of decomposition, may be used a greater number of times. Deep-fat frying has some advan- tages over frying in a small amount of fat, since the object to be cooked is immediately immersed in it and a protec- tive coat is formed against the absorption of fat. Care should be taken in cooking in a large quantity of fat be- cause it is inflammable and accidents may occur. Articles, 90 FATS AND OILS 91 such as potatoes, which contain a large amount of water will cause the fat to sputter, due to the expansion of the water to steam, and such articles should be added slowly. A large number of cooking fats are on the market at the present time. Some of these are compounds or mix- tures of different animal and plant fats. If properly prepared, there is no objection to their use, and frequently they save money for the buyer. Sometimes old and rancid samples are bought, and on account of the one poor sample, all of these special preparations are unjustly condemned. Any unpleasant flavor detected in foods where these are used is practically always due to the rancidity and not, as is frequently supposed, to the character of the fresh fat. LABORATORY EXERCISES I. Effect of Heat upon Fats Heat butter, lard, some commercial compound, and a cooking oil, and note point of decomposition as shown by smoking point. II. Types of Commercial Fats and Oils Observe samples of some common fats and oils, noting source, physical characteristics, price, and use. III. Ice Cream Ice cream in its simplest form is sweetened and flavored cream. Cream is a very expensive form of fat and sometimes an acceptable substitution may be made for it. In the directions given below the ingredients vary and the cost of each should be computed. Calculate the cost when a thin (16 per cent) cream is used, and the cost when double cream is used. i. Ice Cream 40 cream f c sugar Flavoring 92 A STUDY OF FOODS Mix ingredients and freeze. Use a freezing mixture of 3 to 4 parts ice and i part salt. 2. Ice Cream 40 cream i egg 2 c milk i T cornstarch 1 c sugar Flavoring Pinch of salt Mix cornstarch with i c cold milk and boil. Remove from fire and stir in the slightly beaten egg. Stir until smooth ; then add the other ingredients and freeze. IV. Saratoga Chips Wash and pare potatoes. Cut into very thin slices in a bowl of cold water. Let stand for from 15 to 20 minutes. Drain off water and dry potatoes in a towel. Fry in deep fat until light brown. Drain on brown paper and sprinkle with salt. Fry half of potatoes in lard and the rest in some other kind of fat. Compare in desirability and cost. V. Potato Croquettes 2C hot riced potatoes ^-c grated cheese 2 T butter i egg ^-t salt Few grains cayenne Shape into desired form, roll in crumbs, egg, and again in crumbs. Fry in deep fat. Drain on paper in oven. GENERAL EXERCISES To what extent may lard be used in place of butter? May any of the other fats be substituted for butter, and when ? What is the objection to fried potatoes as they are frequently prepared ? What other foods are often fat soaked ? Name the objections to foods which are saturated with fat. How may this difficulty be avoided ? FATS AND OILS 93 Why is cooking in fat a common and favorite method of pre- paring food? What is the danger of cooking in deep fat ? Are fats in general cheap or expensive foods ? Name some of the cheap and some of the expensive fats. References LEVVKOWITSCH. Chemical Technology and Analysis of Oils, Fats, and Waxes, Vols. I and II. ALLEN. Commercial Organic Analysis. LEACH. Food Inspection and Analysis. NY i LEY. Foods and their Adulterations. WILEY. " Household Tests for the Detection of Oleomargarine and Renovated Butter," Farmers' Bulletin Xo. /j/, U.S. Department of Agriculture. HAYWARD. Facts concerning the History, Commerce, and Manufac- ture of Butter. HAYWARI>. ' Principles and Practice of Ice-Cream Making," 'Bulletin No. /5J, Vermont Agricultural Experiment Station. CHAPTER XVII FLOUR Flour is a very familiar preparation from the cereal wheat. In the milling of wheat, the outer (bran) layers and the germ are removed, and the inner starchy portion is finely ground into flour. Flour is largely starch (from 70 to 75 per cent), but it contains protein, varying with the kind of wheat. Water, mineral matter, and a very small amount of fat make up the rest of the content. The protein of the flour possesses some interesting characteristics. Protein of wheat occurs chiefly in the form of glutenin and gliadin, and when water is added, these two unite to form a sticky substance called gluten. This is already familiar to many as the chewing gum obtained from the wheat kernels. Gluten is an elastic substance which is readily stretched as the contained air or moisture expands. Like the other proteins discussed, gluten is hardened by heat. In the making of bread this is of considerable importance, for the expanded and hardened gluten forms the support or framework of the loaf. There are many varieties of wheat, and these vary not only in physical characteristics but in composition. In the more moderate climates in the United States the wheat is planted in the fall and left in the ground through the winter. This is generally known as winter wheat. In the Northwest, where the winters are severe, the seed is sown 94 FLOUR 95 in the spring, and these are known as spring wheats. The spring wheats are harder and more difficult to mill than the winter wheats. In some of the semiarid portions of the country the very hard Russian wheats are grown. These are known as durum (hard) wheats, the name indi- cating one of their characteristics. The durum wheats usually run quite high in protein, and are sometimes blended with other wheats in the milling process. The BAKED GLUTEN FROM Two CUPS OF FLOUR i, flour; 2, dough from same ; 3, gluten from same ; 4, gluten baked ; 5, baked gluten cut open durum wheats are very desirable for the making of maca- roni, and some varieties are excellent for bread. In all wheats the quality of the gluten is an important factor in bread making. Flour made from a single variety of wheat is not usual. The miller mixes or blends differ- ent wheats to make a more desirable flour. Generally speaking, the winter wheats are more starchy, which makes them especially desirable for the making of cake and pastry, and many of them make excellent bread, while the spring wheats are higher in protein and better adapted to the making of bread than the making of pastry. The harder 96 A STUDY OF FOODS varieties of the winter wheats and the softer spring wheats resemble one another in composition. It is not infrequent, however, to find a flour which is good for both pastry and bread, due to the wise blending of wheats in the milling. The flour of the starchy winter wheats is white and soft, while that of the spring wheats is more granular, and creamy in color. The complaints frequently made against a flour are not always just, for they often arise from a failure to recog- nize the kind of flour and the use to which it is adapted. A good flour should be a clear white or cream in color ; a gray flour indicates poor quality, and in no case is a musty smell permissible. Graham and whole-wheat flours are also prepared from wheat. The original graham flour was made by grinding the whole wheat kernel without removing any portion of it. Substitutes for this are sometimes found on the market, which are mixtures of bran with an inferior quality of flour. In whole-wheat flour the outer bran layers are re- moved, and the whole is ground finer than in the graham. It is frequently stated that graham and whole-wheat breads have greater food value than the plain white bread, due to the fact that the whole wheat kernel is used in preparing the former. While percentage composition seems to favor the claim, it is also misleading. Bran stimulates peristalsis, and so hastens food through the digestive tract, and its passage may be so rapid that absorption is partially pre- vented, thus causing a loss of nutrients. The laxative action of bran has been attributed to the mechanical irri- tation of its particles, but recent work indicates that this action is largely due to the phosphorus compounds. FLOUR 97 Rye, barley, buckwheat, corn, and some other cereals are ground into meals and flours. Rye flour is often used for making bread ; but the gluten, if present, in the other cereals is of such a nature that they do not make good bread. Corn meal is made into a bread by combining white flour or egg with it. LABORATORY EXERCISES I. Flours Examine graham, whole-wheat, and white flour, rye flour, and corn meal. Sift and examine residue of wheat preparations ; compare. What is the percentage composition of these flours ? I 1 . d I n ten Measure ^c of ordinary white flour and mix with it enough water to form a stiff dough. Work in the hands until it be- comes smooth and elastic, and then wash it until the water is clear. What is left ? What has been removed ? Bake the residue in a moderate oven for from 30 to 45 minutes. GENERAL EXERCISES Is spring or winter wheat grown in your vicinity ? What varieties of wheat are ground by your local miller? What kind of flour is used in your home ? Is more than one kind of flour kept in your home ? What flour does your local baker use ? Why ? What guides the baker in his choice of flour ? What guides the housewife in her choice of flour? Why is a blended flour desirable ? References SNYDER. Human Foods. HUTCHISON. Food and Dietetics. OSBORNE. Proteids of the Wheat Kernel. 98 A STUDY OF FOODS r OSBORNE. " Winter Wheat Varieties," Biilletin No. 82, Pennsylvania State College Agricultural Experiment Station. SHEPARD. " Macaroni Wheat," Bulletin No. 92, South Dakota Agri- cultural College Experiment Station. NORTON. " A Study of Durum Wheat," /oumat of the American Chemi- cal Society, Vol. XXVII, August, 1905. DONDLINGER. Book of Wheat. FREEMAN and SHILLING. " Flour," The Journal of Home Economics, December, 1911. JORDAN, HART, and PATTEN. " Metabolism and Physiological Effects of Phosphorus Compounds of Wheat Bran," Bulletin No. i, New York State Experiment Station, and American Journal of Physiology, Vol. XVI, p. 268. CHAPTER XVIII FLOUR MIXTURES In the household we are familiar with a large number of flour mixtures, both batters and doughs. In all these mixtures flour is combined with moisture and some leav- ening agent, whatever else may be added. Water is the liquid most commonly used, but sweet and sour milk and buttermilk are frequently substituted for water. On mixing the flour with the liquid, gluten is formed. As explained before, the gluten is expanded by gas and steam, and if heated while in this stretched, or expanded, condition, the gluten is hardened and forms a sort of framework for the other ingredients of the loaf. Exercise II in the previous chapter illustrates this characteristic of gluten. The third essential to the flour mixture is a leavening agent. Flour and water mixtures are heavy, and it is nec- essary to provide some means for lightening, or leavening, them. To accomplish this, air may be beaten into the mixture directly, as in the beaten biscuit of the South, or air may be added after it has been beaten into the white of egg. Carbon-dioxide gas is the most common leavening agent and is supplied by the action of yeast or of certain chemicals. The chemicals used are baking soda and some acid. The acid may be one of several combined with the soda to form a so-called baking powder, or the acid may be supplied in the cooking materials, such as sour milk or 99 ioo A STUDY OF FOODS molasses. The moisture used in all these mixtures is expanded into steam during the cooking process, and this also helps to make the mixture light. While flour, water, and a leavening agent are necessary to any flour mixture, the resulting product would not be very palatable, and therefore other materials are added to modify both flavor and texture. Salt is necessary in prac- tically every case. Milk, eggs, fat, and sugar are commonly used, and all these add to the food value. Other materials, such as spices and extracts, are valued for their flavor. Eggs not only serve as a means for introducing air into the mixture, but, on heating, the albumen of the egg hardens and aids in forming a framework for the mixture. Fat affects the texture, tenderness, and flavor in proportion to the quantity used. Sugar is valued for its flavor, but it also affects texture. The proportion of liquid to flour in these mixtures varies greatly. Thin mixtures are called batters ; the thicker ones are called doughs. Practically all flour mixtures are baked, although fat and steam are used in some cases as the cooking mediums. In applying heat to any food its composition should be kept in mind. This is rather simple when we are cooking eggs alone or starch alone, but where different substances are combined, it is necessary to regard the material which pre- dominates, and a compromise is usually necessary. In most of the flour mixtures starch is present in large quan- tity, and this calls for thorough cooking at a high tempera- ture. In mixtures in which a large amount of egg is used, as in sponge cake, a low temperature is required and the time of baking is prolonged. I ' , o ''''>*'''' ' FLOUR MIXTURES- , 1'Q* ' LABORATORY EXERCISES Repeat oven tests as given in Chapter I. II. Baking Temperatures Discuss the baking temperatures which will be desirable for the mixtures in the following exercises : III. Batters with Air and Steam as Leavening Agents i. Popov ers i c milk i T fat i c flour it salt Mix salt and flour ; gradually add milk, in order to keep mixture smooth ; then add melted fat and unbeaten egg. Beat thoroughly with Dover egg-beater or spoon. Pour at once into hot gem pans and bake for from 40 to 45 minutes in a moderate oven. They should be served as soon as cooked. All materials and utensils should be ready and fire lighted before mixing is started. 2. Sponge cake Yolks 2 eggs Salt Whites 2 eggs Lemon rind sugar 1 1 lemon juice flour Beat yolks until lemon colored and thick. Add sugar gradu- ally and continue beating. Then add lemon juice, rind, and whites of eggs beaten until stiff and dry. When white is par- tially mixed with yolk, carefully cut and fold in flour mixed and sifted with salt. Bake in an unbuttered pan in a slow oven for from 35 to 45 minutes. What makes this mixture light ? "102 A STUDY OF FOODS 3. White sponge cake |c white of egg t cream of tartar fc granulated sugar Flavoring flour Sift flour once before measuring and several times afterward. Beat egg until very stiff, adding the cream of tartar, and gradu- ally beat in the sugar. Then add flavoring and carefully fold in the flour. Do not stir or beat more than is necessary to mix. Pour into an unbuttered pan and bake for from 40 to 50 minutes in a very slow oven. IV. Baking Soda Acid of some sort must be added to soda to free carbon diox- ide. Molasses contains a mixture of organic acids ; sour milk contains lactic acid. 1. Into a tablespoon of sour milk stir a pinch of soda. Watch results. Explain. 2. Repeat, using molasses. V. Batters with Soda and Sour Milk or Molasses as Leavening Agents i . Gingerbread i c molasses i egg ^c butter \ c sour milk i^t soda 2 1 ginger 2C flour -Jt salt Sift together all dry ingredients. Cream the butter, add molasses and beaten egg, and then add to this the flour and milk in turn. Beat the whole thoroughly and turn into a greased pan. Bake in a slow oven. 2. Sour-milk griddlecakes 2-J-c flour 2 c sour milk \\. salt soda i egg FLOUR MIXTURES 103 Mix and sift dry ingredients. Add these to the milk, beat well, and lastly add the beaten egg. Cook on a hot griddle. No grease is required if an aluminium griddle is used. 3. Corn bread i c corn meal i T melted butter i c sour milk \c sifted flour \\. salt 1 1 baking powder 1 1 soda i egg Sift together all dry ingredients, stir these into the milk, and then add butter and beaten egg. Bake in a moderate oven. VI. Baking Powder Baking powder is a mixture of an acid and an alkaline con- stituent which will yield a gas in the presence of moisture. The alkaline constituent is almost always the ordinary baking soda, which is sodium bicarbonate. The acid constituent varies with the brand of the baking powder, and may be a phosphate, tartrate, or alum salt. The commercial baking powder contains a third substance, usually starch, which tends to absorb the moisture from the air and prevent premature development of gas from the other two substances. Oftentimes in the house- hold baking soda and cream of tartar are added to a flour mixture. This serves the same purpose as baking powder. 1. Mix Jt soda and ^t cream of tartar. Stir this into a half glass of water and observe results. 2. Stir 1 1 baking powder into a half glass of water and observe. (Save this for 4.) 3. Half fill two glasses with water. Into the first stir 1 1 of a tartrate baking powder ; into the second stir 1 1 of a phosphate baking powder. Do you note any difference in the rapidity of action ? 4. Boil the mixture left from 2 and note results. Explain. 104 A STUDY OF FOODS VII. Batters with Baking Powder as a Leavening Agent 1 . Griddlecakes i:J-c flour i egg ^t salt 2 1 baking powder ic milk Sift dry ingredients, stir into the milk, and lastly add the beaten egg. Cook on a hot griddle. 2. Muffins 2 c flour i c milk 1 egg 4-t baking powder -^-t salt 2 T melted butter 2T sugar Sift dry ingredients, stir into milk, and add melted butter and beaten egg. Beat the mixture thoroughly and pour into greased pans. Bake in a quick oven. 3. White cake ^c butter 4t baking powder 2 c sugar Whites 5 eggs i c water 1 1 vanilla 3C flour Cream butter, add sugar, and thoroughly mix. Sift flour and baking powder several times, add this, alternating with the water, to the first mixture, and then add vanilla. Fold in the stiffly beaten whites of eggs and pour into a greased pan. Bake in a moderate oven. Boiled icing i c sugar Lemon juice or ^c water flavoring White i egg -j-t cream of tartar Cook sugar, cream of tartar, and water together until sirup will thread. Pour in a fine stream into well-beaten white of egg, beating until smooth and thick enough to spread upon the cake. FLOUR MIXTURES 105 Flavor and pour over cake, spreading with spatula. If beaten too long, thin with a few drops of lemon juice or boiling water and wet the knife in cold water. Ice the cake and calculate the cost of cake and icing. VIII. Doughs The difference between doughs and batters is in the amount of moisture used with the flour. Batters have one or two meas- ures of flour to one of liquid. Doughs have about three measures of flour to one of liquid. i. Biscuit ic flour f c liquid, equal parts 2 1 baking powder water and milk salt i|T fat Sift dry ingredients, work fat into flour, and gradually add the liquid, mixing into a very soft dough just stiff enough to roll. Turn onto a floured board, roll to \ inch in thickness, cut, put into a floured pan, and bake in a quick oven. 2. Sliortciike 2C flour i T sugar 4t baking powder Jc fat t salt f c milk Mix the same as biscuit, roll about J inch thick, and fit into a pan for baking. When done, split and spread with butter, cover with crushed and sweetened fruit. Add the top layer of short- cake and cover generously with fruit and juice before serving. 3. Doughnuts ^c sugar 3t baking powder i T butter in i \ c flour Jc milk it salt i egg cinnamon nutmeg 106 A STUDY OF FOODS Beat thoroughly butter, sugar, and egg. Sift dry ingredients and add, alternately with milk, to the first mixture. Add enough more flour to make a soft dough, turn onto a floured board, roll to ^ inch in thickness, cut, and cook in deep fat. GENERAL EXERCISES What is the leavening agent in each of the foregoing illustrations ? What furnishes the moisture ? Why use moderate or low heat for sponge cakes ? Calculate the cost of both sponge cakes and the number of people served by each. Suggest a use for the yolks left from the white sponge cake. Why are egg and white flour used in making corn bread ? Is there any objection to the use of griddlecakes ? Does the gingerbread brown more easily than the corn bread? Explain. Calculate the cost of corn bread and of gingerbread for a family of six. Compare the cost of sponge cakes and butter cakes. Calculate the cost of pound cake. Is this expensive ? Explain. Calculate the cost of muffins for a family of six. How may an oven that is too hot affect a cake mixture? too slow an oven? Which needs the greater heat, a layer or loaf cake? a butter or sponge cake ? a molasses or plain cake ? How determine when a cake is done? When add beaten whites, and why ? Suggest possible causes for the following : Cracks across top of cake in baking. Coarse-grained cake. Tough cake. How prepare pans? Explain. Suggest methods for reducing heat in an oven that is too hot. How much should a cake increase in bulk while baking? What effect has beating on the texture of the cake ? Why will a cake that is carelessly moved in baking frequently fall ? FLOUR MIXTURES 107 How care for a cake on removal from oven ? Discuss order of adding ingredients in mixing a cake. When add flour ? When add eggs ? Explain. References WILEY. Foods and their Adulteration. LEACH. Food Inspection and Analysis. LEACH. ' Baking Powders," Bulletin No. 7/9, Maine Agricultural Experiment Station. WILEY. " Cereals and Cereal Products," Bulletin No. /j, Part IX. FARMER. Boston Cooking School Cook Book. HILL. Practical Cooking and Serving. VULTE and GOODELL. Household Chemistry. CHAPTER XIX BREAD Bread is a dough made of flour, salt, liquid, and yeast. The flour of wheat is used more commonly than that of any other cereal. The flavor of wheat is desirable, and its gluten makes it suitable for bread. If the whole kernel is ground, as in graham flour, the flavor is very pronounced ; if less of the bran is retained, as in whole-wheat flour, the flavor is milder. The range of flavor in the ordinary white flours of the same grade is not so great, but there is a choice. It was discovered long ago that a dough, or mixture of flour and water, would undergo some changes on standing, and the character of the loaf on baking was consequently different. This change we know to be fermentation, due to the development of certain living forms in the dough. Instead of depending upon chance for these living forms to make the dough light, we add yeast to the dough at the start. The yeast is a one-celled plant of microscopic size. Like any other plant, the yeast requires the proper conditions for growth- -namely, warmth, moisture, and food. These favorable conditions are found in bread dough, and as the yeast grows there is developed carbon dioxide, which gas lightens the dough. Yeast may be purchased in the form of dry cakes, or as compressed yeast. Frequently these are used to make a so-called ' starter," which is kept and used from time to 1 08 BREAD 109 time in the household. The starter, or liquid yeast, affords a favorable place for the growth of other living forms than yeast, and these often are the cause of sourness or a very poor flavor in the bread. Since the same conditions which favor the growth of yeast favor the growth of other plants, it is very necessary to be careful that all the materials are in good condition and that all the utensils are clean. The amount and the condition of the yeast used in making bread determine the time necessary for the process. The yeast TYPICAL LOAVES OF BREAD plant develops very rapidly if under favorable conditions and will leaven a large amount of dough in a comparatively short time. If it is necessary to make the bread in a very short time, as much as two cakes of compressed yeast may be added to a small loaf without injuring the flavor of the bread. In the ordinary household process such an amount would be unnecessary and extravagant, except under unusual circumstances. Bread made in a short time with compressed yeast is familiarly known as " short process ' bread. The more common custom is to allow a longer time for making bread. The yeast is mixed with a small portion of flour no A STUDY OF FOODS and water. Sugar is usually added to this mixture, and oftentimes potatoes are used. This mixture is known as a sponge and affords favorable conditions for the devel- opment of the yeast plant. The sponge stands for a number of hours (usually overnight) and is then mixed with more liquid and flour to make the dough. Bread made in this way is known as ' long-process ' bread. UTENSILS USED IN BREAD MAKING, SHOWING ALSO METHOD OF MEASURING The liquid used in making bread may be water, milk, a mixture of the two, whey, or potato water. Potatoes furnish a good medium for the growth of yeast, and so their use is frequently favored. Fat may or may not be added. Sugar, in small amount, hastens the activity of the yeast and should be added early in the process. The object in kneading bread is to mix it thoroughly and to distribute the gas evenly, so making a finer texture. Repeated rising of the bread and kneading down before making into a loaf makes a somewhat finer texture and a BREAD 1 1 1 whiter loaf, but at the expense of the finer flavor of the bread. Very good bread can be made with comparatively little kneading. Bread is baked to kill the yeast plant, to cook the starch thoroughly, and to make a brown and palatable crust. It is desirable to bake each loaf in a separate pan which is small enough to insure the thorough baking of the loaf. A small loaf of bread in a single pan should bake not less than forty-five minutes. If dough has doubled in bulk, it should be put into a very hot oven and the heat gradually reduced until the baking is finished. If the dough is put into the oven before its bulk has doubled, the heat should be more moderate at first in order that the loaf may rise sufficiently. There are so many notions with regard to the desirable qualities of bread that it is a help to use some standard for judging it. The following score card, accredited to Miss Isabel Bevier at the University of Illinois, has been widely used and found helpful in establishing standards. BREAD SCORK CARD Flavor ......... 35 Lightness ........ 15 Grain and Texture ..... 20 Color Crust < Depth Texture 10 _ , , Color 1 Crumb^ > .... 10 LMoistureJ Shape and Size 10 Total i oo H2 A STUDY OF FOODS 1. The flavor is determined by taste and odor. Bread should have the good nutty sweet flavor of the grain. A sour or yeasty smell or taste is not allowable. 2. Lightness is determined by the relation of size and volume. The bread should be neither overlight nor underlight. 3. Grain and texture are judged by the fineness and tenderness of the loaf. There should be even distribution of the gas, making fine and uniform holes. No heavy streaks should occur. 4. The crust should be an even, yellowish brown in color, about one fourth of an inch in depth, and should be crisp. 5. The crumb should be creamy in color, neither excessively dry and crumbly nor doughy. 6. The loaf should be shapely and small enough to be thoroughly cooked. LABORATORY EXERCISES I. Effect of Temperatures upon Yeast. (Demonstration) 1. Blend one yeast cake thoroughly in a pint of water to which has been added i T sugar. 2. Freeze a portion of the mixture, and then allow it to thaw at room temperature. 3. Boil another portion and cool to room temperature. 4. Take another portion at room temperature. 5. Chill a fourth portion. Fill wide-mouthed bottles from each of the above portions and invert them on plates. Keep 2, 3, and 4 in a warm room, and 5 packed in ice during the remainder of the laboratory period. Explain results observed. BREAD i i II. Long- Process Bread i c boiled water or i T sugar Jc each of milk and water ft salt \-\ cake dry yeast or iT fat J- cake compressed yeast 3 c flour In making long-process bread less yeast is required than for the short process because the time is so much longer. Good long-process bread is made by different methods, but the following is typical. A sponge is made by adding sugar, yeast, and flour to the liquid. Scald the liquid, and soften the yeast in 2 T warm water. When the liquid is lukewarm, add the yeast and sugar and enough flour to make a thin batter. This is set aside in a warm place overnight, during which time the yeast becomes active and the sponge is light. In the morning add all the other in- gredients, mixing thoroughly. When enough flour is added so that the dough may be handled, turn it onto the board and knead until it is smooth, sticks neither to the board nor hands, and air bubbles appear near the surface of the dough. Put the dough into a greased bowl and set in a warm place. When the dough has doubled in bulk, make it into loaves and put into greased pans. Again set the dough to rise in a warm place. When the loaves have doubled in bulk, put into a hot oven and bake for from 40 to 50 minutes. The temperature of the oven should be lowered during the baking process. When the loaf is baked, remove it from the pan at once and cool it in a position which allows full circulation of air about the bread. III. Short-Process Bread scalded milk ^-c boiled water i T lard or butter ft salt 3 c flour i T sugar 1-2 compressed yeast cakes in 2t warm water 114 A STUDY OF FOODS Put butter or lard, sugar, and salt in bread bowl; pour on it the hot liquid (milk and water). When this is lukewarm, add the softened yeast cake ; then add enough flour to make a stiff batter, beating thoroughly. Add the remaining flour ; mix and turn onto the floured board. Knead until the dough will stick neither to hands nor to board and bubbles may be seen under the surface. Grease the bowl and return the dough to it. Set in a warm place until the dough has doubled in bulk ; then shape into loaves. Let this double its bulk again and bake. IV. Whole-wheat, Graham, or Rye Bread Make a sponge as for long-process bread. When light, use entire-wheat, graham, or rye flour to make a soft dough. Make into loaves and let rise until thoroughly light. Bake with mod- erate heat i hour or longer. Sugar to sweeten may be added if desired. V. Parker House Rolls Roll bread dough to ^ inch in thickness and cut with biscuit cutter. Crease each piece in the middle, brush one half with melted butter, fold, pressing edges together. Place in a greased pan, cover, let rise, and bake. VI. Cinnamon Rolls Roll bread dough to \ inch in thickness, spread with butter, and sprinkle with a mixture of f sugar and -J- cinnamon. Roll up like a jelly roll and cut into f -inch pieces. Place in greased pan flat side down. Let rise and bake. GENERAL EXERCISES Calculate cost of baker's bread per pound. Calculate cost of homemade bread per pound. Judge both samples by the score card. Why is bread kneaded ? When is it desirable to use a sponge? BREAD I I 5 What determines the amount of yeast used ? What might cause sour bread ? What is accomplished in the baking of bread? What is " jug " or " starter " yeast? What kind of yeast would you use ? What is salt-rising bread ? Examine yeasts under the microscope, and make drawings. References ATWATER. " Bread and Bread Making," Farmers' Uidletin No. 389, U.S. Department of Agriculture. SNYDER. " Studies on Bread and Bread Making," Kitllelin No. 67, Office of Experiment Stations, U.S. Department of Agriculture. SNYDER. " Studies on the Digestibility and Nutritive Value of Bread," Bulletins Nos. 126, 143, 756, Office of Experiment Stations, U.S. Department of Agriculture. WARDALL. " Relation of Yeast to Flavor in Bread," The Journal of Home Economics, February, 1910. JAGO. Bread and Bread Making. HUTCHISON. Food and Dietetics. SNYDER. Human Foods. SIMMONS. The Book of Bread. BEVIER. Some Points in the Making and Judging of Bread. WOOD. Story of a Loaf of Bread. . ex &, ex a, &. bo p p 3 3 3 u o o o u " & CO rt H Z O in H O M OH hi O 2 _ tt s i * H O w Z m - vo ^ 8 ^ ro S ^ ^ * = = C/J Q O O ~ o u o o /5 H as O - a B E- a as 0) s a a " S- p 3 -3 3 w fto HM one M w n a, u 1-1 OT "T 1 1 ^ "1" rodvd * f*l OCO ^- \n 3 I tn ej 3 a V 9 g n CJ O 2 " OJ Si ,_^ pT) pj Q^ p , f| p*| O " N ^ ^> CO O^ H 1-1 i- 1-1 d 6 d 6 6 6 6 u B 3 H O M 1- S R ' a 5 o JJ r*> w OSO CTv ><^ (ft a t/J tfl 4-J D 3 O 73 C i tfl 4) O 8 < u S tn w . . W 2 H < fc os < O H o O ^ o ^ K' 1 '^ v-' u C/5 C O o s o o 01 fa o C/J H OS o PH U ffi H H OS 3 CO fl II CU -SJ -3 I. i 1 P<^, J2 co C H X C 5 o- \f\ 1-1 N co T3 If _. T3 -ix l^< ^ ,. CO 2 2i "o cu bo HoQOiffl W o \O t^ 333 H CT C C C to H 8 B ft, O 5 u-i w ^- 1/1 vo O 1^ M N* H^ ro in vd CO VS (N| "1 VC VO Q O i "! S 8 c 1 ^ J a 5 r- S 3 J^ ~- CU ^. CQ U < * 4* i> PH & t- N ro <* u-, d 6 6 d d 118 H Z H 2 O f C/3 H H b) I/) 3 33 -M S. 1 o. S fl333r,3 04 - (S i ON v) M oo M M ; "- 1 O oo O ON ON t/i Q Db M o U w V 5 ~ S fe < os Cfl O w < ^. ^ ^ _ U a 7 ! w " 5 3 s h a O -" M ff) -t I- cu C rt bo he bc^ co s >53 J5 -3 cr^ 4 " "* -UN ^ CO bJO C r co t CX CO o (S H X U 1- CN "-> 40 Tenderness j Appearance 20 100 CANDY Flavor 50 Texture 30 Appearance 20 100 CANNED FRUIT Flavor 60 Color 15 Condition of Fruit 15 Consistency of Sirup 10 100 JELLY Flavor 50 Color 15 Consistency 20 Texture 15 100 PRESERVES^ Flavor |o Color 15 Consistency of Sirup 20 Condition of Fruit 15 100 PICKLES, CATSUP, ETC. Flavor 60 Condition 25 Color . 15 100 142 A STUDY OF FOODS FRUIT BUTTER AND MARMALADE Flavor 60 Consistency 25 Color . . 15 100 SCORE CARD FOR A MEAL Selection of food Quality of materials Combination of nutrients Combination of flavors Variety and suitability Preparation of food 35 Service Table appointments Attractiveness of food Table service s 100 CONTESTS The contest may be a valuable means of making com- parisons and forming standards. A bread-judging contest is frequently arranged for a class or a club, in which a number of loaves of bread are judged, according to the score card, by the contestants. Other contests could easily be arranged in the same way. APPENDIX II RETAIL CUTS OF BEEF [Reprint from Bulletin No. fj8, University of Illinois, Agricultural Experiment Station, by L. D. Hall and A. D. Emmett, to be used in connection with their photographs of retail cuts] Taking the net cost of the lean meat as a basis of comparison, we learn from these data that the most expensive steaks at the prices given are the porterhouse cuts, followed by the club, sir- loin, flank, round, and chuck steaks. Of the different roasts the first-cut prime ribs are the most costly in terms of lean meat, and the rump roast is the most economical. The various boil- ing and stewing pieces furnish lean meat more economically at market prices than either the roasts or steaks ; the rib ends and briskets being the dearer cuts of this class, while the neck and shank stews are relatively cheapest. Several of the soup bones are very economical sources of lean meat, particularly the mid- dle cuts of both shanks ; and only one of them is extremely expensive, even on this basis. In general, the wide variation between the various cuts in net cost of lean is remarkable, ranging from 7.5 cents in one of the soup bones to 40.5 cents in a prime rib roast, and up to 62.5 cents in the hock soup bone ; the latter, however, being used primarily for its flavoring substance rather than for lean meat. It will be observed, also, that the market prices of the cheaper cuts correspond much more closely to their net cost of lean meat than is true of the higher-priced steaks and roasts. The net cost per pound of gross meat, or lean and fat com- bined, varies much less as between the different cuts than does the net cost per pound of lean, because the proportions of total meat are more nearly uniform than the percentages of lean. 144 A STUDY OF FOODS The various steaks and roasts rank in substantially the same order as to relative economy on this basis as on the basis of lean meat. The rib roasts, however, are considerably more economical as compared with the porterhouse and sirloin steaks when all the edible meat is considered. The rump shows a very low cost per pound of edible meat, due to the large pro- portion of fat it contains ; and a still further difference is noticed in the case of the rib ends, brisket, navel, flank, neck, and sev- eral of the soup-bone cuts. The stewing meats are generally the most economical sources of edible meat at these prices, while porterhouse steaks are the most expensive. On the whole, the data clearly show that the cheaper cuts of beef are by far the most economical sources both of lean and of total edible meat, including fat and lean. It has been shown that no correlation exists between market prices and the proportion of flavoring substances contained in various portions of the carcass ; and cooking tests indicate that the proportion of waste and shrinkage is not necessarily greater in the cheaper than in the more expensive cuts. It is evident, therefore, that retail prices of beef cuts are determined chiefly by considera- tions other than their food value, such as tenderness, grain, color, general appearance, and convenience of cooking. APPENDIX II 145 COST OF LEAN AND OF TOTAL MEAT IN THE VARIOUS RETAIL CUTS AT MARKET PRICES RETAIL CUTS DIAGRAM NUMBER (PAGE 147) RETAIL PRICE (IN CENTS) PER POUND OF CUT COST (IN CENTS) PER POUND OF LEAN MEAT IN CUT COST (IN CENTS) PER POUND OF LEAN AND FAT MEAT IN CUT Steaks Porterhouse, hip-bone 8 25 3 8.6 28.9 Porterhouse, regular 10 2 5 40.2 27.2 Club steak 18 2O 32.1 22.6 Sirloin, butt-end i 2O 2 5-3 20.6 Sirloin, round-bone 3 2O 28. 3 21. 1 Sirloin, double-bone 5 20 28.7 22.7 Sirloin, hip-bone 7 2O 32.3 24.2 Flank steak i 16 19-3 16.0 Round, first cut 2 15^ 17.0 15-3- Round, middle cut 6 15 17-3 15.6 Round, last cut M 15 19-3 1 6.0 Chuck, first cut 2 12 I8. 3 14.1 Chuck, last cut 9 12 '57 I3-I Roasts Prime ribs, first cut i 2O 40.5 22.9 Prime ribs, last cut 4 16 26.1 18.8 Chuck, fifth rib i 15 22.8 17-3 Rump i 12 194 12.8 Boiling and stewing pieces Round pot roast 16 10 11.6 IO.I Shoulder clod '4 10 12.3 10.5 Shoulder pot roast ii 10 14-3 u.6 Rib ends 3 8 16.2 9.2 Brisket i 8 15.0 8.7 Navel 2 7 12.8 7-7 Flank stew ^ 7 10.9 7-i Fore shank stew I 7 8.5 7.0 Neck 15 6 8.5 7.0 Soup bones Round, knuckle 2 5 26.3 12.5 Hind shank, middle cut 18 5 7-5 6-3 Hind shank, hock 19 5 62.5 26.6 Fore shank, knuckle 2 5 17.2 12.5 Fore shank, middle cut 4 5 12.5 9.4 Fore shank, end 6 5 28.8 20.9 146 A STUDY OF FOODS Chuck (knuckle out) HIND QUARTER Round Rump Round with rump and shank off Hind shank Loin Flank FORE QUARTER Rib Chuck Chuck, knuckle out Clod Neck Plate Shank METHOD OF CUTTING THE THREE SIDES, SHOWING WHOLESALE CUTS RETAIL CUTS 147 Round HIND QUARTER Rump 1, rump Round with rump and shank off 2, round steak, first cut 3-13, round steaks 14, round steak, last cut 15, knuckle soup bone 16, pot roast Hind shank 17, 1 8, soup bones 19, hock soup bone Loin 1, butt-end sirloin steak 2, wedge-bone sirloin steak 3, 4, round-bone sirloin steak 5, 6, double-bone sirloin steak 7, hip-bone sirloin steak 8, hip-bone porterhouse steak 9-15, regular porterhouse steak 1 6- 18, club steaks Flank i, flank steak 2, stew Rib FORE QUARTER 1, nth and i2th rib roast 2, gth and loth rib roast 3, /th and 8th rib roast 4, 6th rib roast Chuck i, 5th rib roast 2-9, chuck steaks 10-13, pot roasts 14, clod 15, neck Plate 1, brisket 2, navel 3, 4, rib ends Fore shank i, stew 2, knuckle soup bone 3-6, soup bones Neck METHOD OF CUTTING THE THREE SIDES, SHOWING RETAIL CUTS 148 A STUDY OF FOODS FIRST CUT SIRLOIN STEAK. LOIN CUT No. i WEDGE-BONE SIRLOIN STEAK. LOIN CUT No. 2 ROUND-BONE SIRLOIN STEAK. LOIN CUT No. 3 RETAIL CUTS 149 ROUND-BONE SIRLOIN STEAK. LOIN CUT No. 4 DOUBLE-BONE SIRLOIN STEAK. LOIN CUT No. 5 HIP-BONE SIRLOIN STEAK. LOIN CUT No. 7 ISO A STUDY OF FOODS HIP-BONE PORTERHOUSE STEAK. LOIN CUT No. 8 REGULAR PORTERHOUSE STEAK. LOIN CUT No. 9 REGULAR PORTERHOUSE STEAK. LOIN CUT No. 10 RETAIL CUTS REGULAR PORTERHOUSE STEAK. LOIN CUT No. 12 REGULAR PORTERHOUSE STEAK. LOIN CUT No. 13 REGULAR PORTERHOUSE STEAK. LOIN CUT No. 14 152 A STUDY OF FOODS REGULAR PORTERHOUSE STEAK. LOIN CUT No. 15 CLUB STEAK. LOIN CUT No. 16 CLUB STEAK. LOIN CUT No. 17 RETAIL CUTS 153 CLUB STEAK. LOIN CUT No. 18 ELEVENTH AND TWELFTH RIB ROAST. RIB CUT No. i NINTH AND TENTH RIB ROAST. RIB CUT No. 2 154 A STUDY OF FOODS SEVENTH AND EIGHTH RIB ROAST. RIB CUT No. 3 SIXTH RIB ROAST. RIB CUT No. 4 RETAIL CUTS 155 RUMP ROAST. ROUND CUT No. i ROUND STEAK. ROUND CUT No. 2 I 5 6 A STUDY OF FOODS ROUND STEAK. ROUND CUT No. 3 ROUND STEAK. ROUND CUT No. 4 RETAIL CUTS 157 ROUND STEAK. ROUND CUT No. 5 ROUND STEAK. ROUND CUT No. 6 158 A STUDY OF FOODS ROUND STEAK. ROUND CUT No. 7 ROUND STEAK. ROUND CUT No. 8 RETAIL CUTS 159 ROUND STEAK. ROUND CUT No. 12 -- ROUND STEAK. ROUND CUT No. 14 HIND-SHANK SOUP BONE. ROUND CUTS Nos. 17, 18, 19 i6o A STUDY OF FOODS ROUND POT ROAST. ROUND CUT No. 16 KNUCKLE SOUP BONE. ROUND CUT No. 15 RETAIL CUTS 161 CHUCK RIB ROAST. CHUCK CUT No. i CHUCK STEAK. CHUCK CUT No. 2 CHUCK STEAK. CHUCK CUT No. 3 162 A STUDY OF FOODS CHUCK STEAK. CHUCK CUT No. 4 CHUCK STEAK. CHUCK CUT No. 5 CHUCK STEAK. CHUCK CUT No. 6 RETAIL CUTS CHUCK STEAK. CHUCK CUT No. 7 CHUCK STEAK. CHUCK CUT No. 8 164 A STUDY OF FOODS CHUCK STEAK. CHUCK CUT No. 9 SHOULDER POT ROAST. CHUCK CUT No. 10 RETAIL CUTS I6 5 ^- Sim i I.I.KR POT ROAST. CHUCK CUT No. n SHOULDER POT ROAST. CHUCK CUT No. 12 1 66 A STUDY OF FOODS CHUCK STEW. CHUCK CUT No. 13. SHOULDER CLOD. CHUCK CUT No. 14 NECK. CHUCK CUT No. 15 RETAIL CUTS 167 BRISKET. PLATE CUT No. i NAVEL. PLATE CUT No. 2 I RIB ENDS. PLATE CUT No. 3 1 68 A STUDY OF FOODS RIB ENDS. PLATE CUT No. 4 FLANK STEW. FLANK CUT No. i FLANK STEAK. FLANK CUT No. 2 RETAIL CUTS 169 SHANK STEW. FORE-SHANK CUT No. i KNUCKLE SOUP BONES. FORE-SHANK CUTS Nos. 2, 3 FORE-SHANK SOUP BONES. FORE-SHANK CUTS Nos. 4, 5, 6 INDEX Albumen, 61, 62 Almonds, 124 Apples, dried, 15; baked, 17; fuel value of, 124 Apricots, dried, 15 Ash in milk, 54 Asparagus, 17 Bacon, 124 Baking powder, 103-104 Baking soda, 102 Hananas, 124 Beans, as a green vegetable, 17; dried, 51, 124 ; baked, 52 ; cream of Lima, 53 Beef. See Meat Beef broth, 74-75 Beets, 17 Biscuit, 105 Body energy, 120-127 Bread, corn, 103 ; composition of, 108-111; score card for, m- 112; effect of temperatures upon yeast, 112; long-process, 113; short-process, 113-114; whole- wheat, graham, or rye, 114; Parker House rolls, 114; cin- namon rolls, 114; fuel value of, 1 24 ; Illinois score card for, 1 39- 140 Butter, 124 Butterscotch, 35 Cabbage, 17, 124; escaloped, 19 Cake, sponge, 101 ; white sponge, 1 02 ; white, 104 ; score card for, 140 Canning powders, 23 Carbohydrates, value of, 2 ; study of, 3-4 ; starch, 37 ; in milk, 54 ; pectin, 87 ; in some common foods, 116; fuel value of, 120- 121 Carrots, 17 Cauliflower, 17 Cereals and cereal products, 43- 48 ; composition and food value of, 43-45 ; boiled rice, 45 ; es- caloped rice, 46 ; rice pudding, 46 ; boiled macaroni, 46 ; maca- roni with tomato sauce, 46-47 ; advantage of long cooking, 47 ; corn-meal mush, 47 ; fried mush, 47 ; rolled oats, 47-48 Cheese, 65-67; composition and food value of, 65 ; effect of heat on, 66; Welsh rabbit, 66; French rabbit, 66 ; fuel value of, 1 24 Cheese crackers, 66 Cheese and pimento sandwiches, 66-67 Chocolate, 58, 124 Chocolate creams, 35 Codfish balls, 84-85 Coffee, 13 Corn, water in cooking, 17; canned, 25-26 Corn meal, as a food, 44; for bread, 97, 103; fuel value of, 124 Corn-meal mush, 47 Cornstarch pudding, 38 Cottage cheese, 58 Cream, 124 Croquettes, beef, 79 ; fish, 85 ; potato, 92 Custard, baked, 63 ; soft, 63-64 Dates, dried, 15, 124 Dextrin, 37 Doughnuts, 105-106 Doughs, 99-100, 105-106 Drawn-butter sauce, 84 171 1/2 A STUDY OF FOODS Dried legumes, 51-53; baked beans, 52 ; dried-pea soup, 52 ; lentil soup, 52 ; cream of lima beans, 53 ; peanut sandwiches, 53 ; salted peanuts, 53 Eggs, 61-64; composition and food value of, 61-62; manipulation of, 62; effect of heaton,62; poached, 62-63 ; omelet, 63 ; baked cus- tard, 63 ; soft custard, 63 ; fuel value of, 1 24. See also Cake Fat, food value of, 2-3 ; study of, 4; in peanuts, 51; in milk, 54; in eggs, 61 ; in cheese, 65 ; in meat, 68; in fish, 81 ; in some common foods, 118; fuel value of, 1 20, 121 Fats and oils, 90-93 ; composition and food value of, 90-91 ; effect of heat on, 91 ; types of com- mercial, 91 ; ice cream, 9192 ; Saratoga chips, 92 ; potato cro- quettes, 92 Figs, dried, 15 Fish, 81-86; composition and food value of, 81; boiled, 83 ; baked, 83 ; stuffing for, 83 ; sauces for, 84 ; escaloped salmon, 84 ; cod- fish balls, 84-85 ; escaloped left-overs, 85; creamed, 86 Fish croquettes, 85 Flour, 94-98 ; composition of, 94 ; varieties of wheat, 94-95 ; food value of, 95-97 ; graham and whole-wheat, 96; rye, barley, buckwheat, corn, 97 ; batters and dough, 99-107 ; leavening mixture, 99-100; oven tests, 101 ; baking temperatures, 101 ; popovers, 101 ; sponge cake, 101-102; gingerbread, 102; sour- milk griddlecakes, 102-103 ; corn bread, 103 ; baking-powder griddlecakes, 104; muffins, 104; white cake, 104 ; boiled icing, 104-105; biscuit, 105; short- cake, 105; doughnuts, 105-106; bread, 108-115 Fondant, 34-35 Food, i-io; defined, i; function of, 1-3 ; chemical composition of, 2-6 ; carbohydrates, 3 ; fats, 4; proteins, 4; water, 5; mineral matter, 5 ; preparation of, 6 ; temperatures, 8 ; fuels, 9 ; se- lection of, 129-134; good and bad habits in choosing, 1 29-130 ; table of nutrients, 131 ; planning meals, 132-133; serving meals, , I3S-I38 Food requirements, 120-128; for different persons, 122; one- hundred-calorie portions, 123; for the infant, 123-125; for young children, 125-126; for school children, 126-127 Food standards, 139-142 French rabbit, 66 Fruit punch, 12-13 Fruits, composition and food value of, 15; fresh and dried, 16; baked apples, 17; stewed prunes, 19 ; in salads, 19, 20, 21 ; preserving, 22-30 ; experiments in preserving, 23-24 ; canned peaches, 26 ; grape conserve, 27 ; grape jelly, 27-28 Fuels for cooking, 9 Gelatin, 87-89 ; jellied prunes, 88 ; orange whip, 88 ; snow pudding, 88 ; tomato jelly, 89 Gingerbread, 102 Gluten, 94, 95, 97, 99 Grape conserve, 27 Griddlecakes, 102-103, 104 Hash, meat, 79 Heat, in preserving foods, 23, 25 ; effect of, on protein, 70, 75-76; effect of, on fat, 90, 91 Hominy, 44 Ice cream, 9192 Icing, boiled, 104-105 Jelly, 27 ; grape, 27-28 Junket, 58 INDEX 173 Lactose, 33 Legumes, 51-53 Lemon ice, 13 Lemonade, 12 Lentil soup, 52 Lima beans, cream of, 53 Macaroni, composition of, 44 ; boiled, 46 ; with tomato sauce, 46-47 MaUre-d'hdtel butter, 84 Meals, planning, 132-133; serving, 135-138 ; setting the table, 135- 136; score card for, 142 Meat, 68-80 ; composition and food value of, 68-69 '> cooking, 70-71; cuts of beef, 71-72; methods of cooking, 73-74 ; effect of dry and moist heat on protein of, 75; pan-broiled porterhouse steak or chops, 76; beef roast, 76; pressed veal, 76; Swiss steak, 77; brown stew, 77 ; pot roast, 77 ; substi- tutes for, 78 ; minced, 79 ; escal- oped, 79 ; browned hash, 79 ; beef croquettes, 79 ; descrip- tion and cost of various cuts, 143-169 Meat salad, 79 Milk, 54-59 ; composition and food value of, 54-57 ; pasteur- ization of, 57 ; effect of boiling, 57 ; modifying, 57-58 ; cottage cheese, 58 ; junket, 58 ; choco- late, 58 ; potato soup, 58-59 ; compared with other foods, 1 16- 119; for infants and children, 123-127 Mineral matter, in composition of food, 2-3 ; study of, 5-6 ; in cooked fruits, 15; in potatoes, 40 ; in eggs, 61 ; in meat, 68 Molasses taffy, 35 Muffins, 104 Oatmeal, 124 Oats, 44-45' 47~48 Olives, 124 Omelet, 63 Onions, water in cooking, 17; creamed, 19 Orange whip, 88 Oranges, 124 Oysters, 81-86; composition and food value of, 8 1 -83; creamed, 85 Pasteurization, 57 Peaches, dried, 15; canned, 26 Peanut brittle, 34 Peanuts, in sandwiches, 53 ; salted, 53 Peas, 17 ; dried, in soup, 52 Pectin, 87 Pickles, 28, 124 Popovers, 101 Pot roast, 77 Potato croquettes, 92 Potato salad, 42 Potato soup, 58-59 Potatoes, 40-42 ; composition and food value of, 40; boiled, 41; creamed, 41 ; mashed, 41 ; au gratin, 41-42 ; buttered crumbs, 42 ; escaloped, 42 ; fuel value of, 124 Protein, food value of, 2-3 ; study of, 4-5 ; in potatoes, 40 ; in cereals, 43-45 ; in dried legumes, 51 ; in milk, 54, 55 ; in eggs, 61 ; in cheese, 65 ; in meat, 68, 69 ; gelatin, 87 ; in flour, 94 ; in some common foods, 117 ; fuel value of, 120-121 Prunes, dried, 15; stewed, 19; jellied, 88 ; fuel value of, 124 Raisins, as a concentrated food, 15 ; fuel value of, 124 Rice, composition and food value of, 43, 45, 1 24 ; boiled, 45 ; escal- oped, 46 Rice pudding, 46 Rolls, Parker House, 114; cinna- mon, 114 Salads, food value of, 19; dress- ings, 20; vegetable, 21; fruit, 21 ; potato, 42; meat, 79 Salmon, escaloped, 84 174 A STUDY OF FOODS Sandwiches, cheese and pimento, 66 Saratoga chips, 92 Sherbet, 13 Shortcake, 105 Skimmed milk, food value of, 55 Snow pudding, 88-89 Soups, lentil, 52 ; dried pea, 52 ; cream of lima beans, 53 ; po- tato, 58-59 Spaghetti, composition of, 44 Spinach, 17; boiled, 19 Starch, 37-39 ; composition and food value of, 37 ; in cooking, 38 ; cornstarch pudding, 38 ; white sauce, 38 ; cream toast, 39 ; in potatoes, 40 ; in cereals, 43-45 ; in dried legumes, 51 ; in flour, 94 Steak, flavor, 68, 71 ; methods of cooking, 73 ; pan-broiled porter- house, 76 ; Swiss, 77 Sugar, 31-36; kinds of, 31-33; effect of heat on cane sugar, 34 ; peanut brittle, 34 ; fondant, 34-35; chocolate creams, 35; molasses taffy, 35; butterscotch, 35; fuel value of, 124 Sweet potatoes, glazed, 19 Tartar sauce, 84 Tea, 13 Temperatures, in cooking, 8-9; baking, 101 Toast, cream, 39 Tomatoes, 17 ; canned, 26-27 ; with macaroni, 46 ; jellied, 89 ; fuel value of, 124 Typhoid fever and oysters, 83 Water, in food, 2-3, 5, 11-14; hard and soft, n ; safe, 11-12; for lemonade, coffee, etc., 12- 14 ; in fruits, 1 5 ; in green vege- tables, 17; in potatoes, 40; in milk, 54; in eggs, 61 ; in cheese, 65 ; in meat, 68 ; in fish, 81 Welsh rabbit, 66 Veal, pressed, 76 Vegetables, green, composition of, 17; canned, 17; creamed onion, 19; escaloped cabbage, 19 ; glazed sweet potatoes, 19 ; spinach, 19; in salads, 19-21; preserving, 22-30; experiments in preserving, 23-24 ; canning, 25-27 ; canned corn, 25 ; canned tomatoes, 26-27 ; pickling, 28 ; cucumber pickles, 28 Yeast, 108-111, 112 ANNOUNCEMENTS PURE FOODS THEIR ADULTERATION, NUTRITIVE VALUE, AND COST By JOHN C. OLSEN, Professor of Analytical Chemistry, Polytechnic Institute of Brooklyn, N.Y., Editor of Van NostrancPs Chemical Annual, etc. I2mo, cloth, 2,10 pages, illustrated, 80 cents 'Pure Foods : their Adulteration, Nutritive Value, and Cost" aims to present, in language easily understood, the results of the large amount of scientific investigation to which the various phases of the food problems have been subjected in recent years. The text includes the chemical composition of each class of foods, the methods used in producing the food, and the com- mon adulterations, together with a number of simple tests for the detection of these. The directions are so explicit that they may be carried out by persons who have not been trained as chemists. The nutritive value of foods being given, it is shown how the true cost may be estimated. There is a statement of legal requirements for pure foods, and a list of references to literature on the subject so that those interested may pursue it still further. This volume is admirably adapted for use in domestic science or chemistry classes where the chemistry of foods is studied and laboratory tests made for purity. It will also furnish excellent supplementary reading in the upper grammar grades. The intelligent consumer of foods and the food producer or dealer will find this of great assistance in purchasing pure and nutritive foods. GINN AND COMPANY PUBLISHERS BACTERIA, YEASTS, AND MOLDS IN THE HOME By H. W. CONN Professor of Biology in Wesleyan University, izmo, cloth, 293 pages, illustrated i book contains an important summary of the facts which have rapidly accumulated in recent years concerning the relation of microorganisms to all matters connected with the home. The work is a popular and not a scientific discussion, free from many technical terms, and admirably adapted to the needs of the housewife, the student of domestic science, and all others interested in home economics. Molds, which are the cause of mildew, the spoiling of many foods, and the decay of fruits ; yeasts, which are the foundation of fermentation in the raising of bread ; and bacteria, which cause food to spoil, meat to decay, and contagious diseases to spread, all these phenomena which are of the most vital importance are presented in an interesting and helpful manner. The author explains the various actions of bacteria, and points out the sources of trouble and the principles which underlie the methods to be adopted for avoiding their effects. Special attention is paid to the problems of food preservation and to the practical methods which can be used in the home for preventing the distribution of contagious diseases. To render the work more useful for classes in domestic science there is added an appendix containing directions for a series of simple experiments which will give to the student a practical knowledge of the most important properties of microorganisms. 167 GINN & COMPANY PUBLISHERS ELEMENTARY APPLIED CHEMISTRY By LEWIS B. ALLYN, State Normal School, Westfield, Mays. izmo, cloth, 127 pages, illustrated, 60 cents THIS book offers practical applications of chemistry to pres- ent-day civic and industrial problems. The course is essentially that conducted by the author in the Westfield State Normal School, where a pure-food campaign has been made one of the objects of the course. The widespread results shown in the almost complete elimination of the sale of impure foods in the city of Westfield are matters of national knowledge. Besides the work with food products, the book includes exercises with water, textile fabrics, drugs, soils, and similar materials. It gives a particularly complete analysis of each subject and brings out clearly the practical relation which chemistry bears to everyday matters. The order of presen- tation differs radically from that of the usual textbook in chemistry, the common elements, bases, and radicals being taken up as they naturally occur. For supplementary use with any regular textbook ' ' Elemen- tary Applied Chemistry ' is invaluable. Teachers of domestic science will find the chapter on food values most important, while for boards of health, inspectors of milk, and all those inter- ested in the pure-food problem, the book has a special function in its valuable information and tests relating to their work. 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